4SIA 
 
(50tttcll Utttnersitg ffiihrarg 
 
 JItJjara, New S«k 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 
 CLASS OF 1876 
 
 I91S 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SK 31.G48a 
 
 Adventures in many lands / 
 
 3 1924 024 000 923 
 
ADVENTURES 
 
 IN* 
 
 MANY LANDS 
 
 By PARKER GILLMORE 
 
 "UBIQUE" 
 
 Author of " The Great Thirst Land," "Gun, Rod, and Saddle," "Accessible 
 Field Sports," "Prairie and Forest,;' &c., &c. 
 
 asaUfj lUustrstions 65 StDntg % i|all 
 
 iLotilfon: 
 
 MARCUS WARD & CO., 67 & 68, CHANDOS STREET 
 
 And royal ULSTER WORKS, BELFAST 
 
 1879 
 

PREFACE. 
 
 'T^HE following narratives, relating my adventures by- 
 flood and field in all quarters of the world, were so 
 well received by the public when produced some years ago, 
 that I have presumed to hope this corrected and improved 
 edition may obtain fresh favour from critics as well as 
 general readers. 
 
 There are sceptics who pronounce my adventures 
 imaginary, but in that they are wrong. The only thing I 
 have done is to slightly alter the order in which they have 
 occurred, so as to take the reader progressively from scene 
 to scene. Finally, in retiring, I feel confident that my 
 juvenile readers, when they visit the places described, will 
 endorse what I have, said of their general appearance. 
 
 PAEKER GILLMORE. 
 
B Cornell University 
 ^ Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924024000923 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 CHAP. PAG i! 
 
 I. — Boyhood and Mischief, .... 7 
 
 II. — My Fiest Steeplechase, ... 22 
 
 III. — A EUN WITH THE GiBEALTAE FOXHOUNDS, . . 85 
 
 IV. — Eamblbs in Spain, . . . 44 
 
 V. — Baebaey Field Spokts, . . . , .51 
 
 "VI. — Afloat in the Mbditeeeanban, and Ashoeb in Noeth 
 
 Afeioa, ...... 64 
 
 "VII. — An Indian Huntino Encampment, . . .70 
 
 "VIII.— Fiest Blood, ... . 77 
 
 IX.— A Shaep Buest, ... . . 84 
 
 X.— The Stoem, . . 90 
 
 XI. — A Veteean Boae, . . . . .67 
 
 XII. — The Seaech foe the Muedekbe, . 107 
 
 XIII.— The Tigee's Death, . ... 115 
 
 XIV.— A Foeest Scene, .... 122 
 
 XV.— Catching a Shaek, ... .127 
 
 XVI. — Teioking an Alligatoe, . . .133 
 
 XVII.— Fast on a Coeal Eeef, . . .140 
 
 XVIII. — A Battle in a Billiaed Eoom, . 145 
 
 XIX. —Chased by a Buffalo, . 151 
 
 '"—-^X.— Among Chinese Pieates, . . 159 
 
 XXI.— Shooting neae Hong-Kong, . . .167 
 
Contents. 
 
 CHAP. PAGE 
 
 XXII. — Dkifting to Death, ..... 178 
 
 XXIII.— Wild Duck Shooting, . 186 
 
 XXIV. — First Hukdlb Eaoe in Japan, . . ■ 205 
 
 XXV. — Voyage theottgh the Japanese Inland Seas, . 212 
 
 XXVI.— El Dorado, .... .227 
 
 XXVII.— A Day in Sonoea, . . 285 
 
 XXVIII.— The Parks of America, . 243 
 
 XXIX. — A HijNTiNG Misadventure, . . 261 
 
 XXX. — Career of an Emigrant, . . 272 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Tropical Pall-Bearers, 
 
 . Frontispiece. 
 
 "Last Chance," laU, "Now or Never," . 
 
 41 
 
 At Bat, 
 
 63 
 
 OuK Camp, 
 
 92 
 
 Incapable of Mischief, 
 
 120 
 
 A Rude Intrusion, 
 
 155 
 
 The Patkiakcii's Attendants, 
 
 . 249 
 
ADVENTURES IN MANY LANDS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BOYHOOD AND MISCHIEF. 
 
 MY FATHER was a good and ardent sportsman. As 
 a shot he was inferior to few,* whUe I have never 
 met any person who could beat him as a fly-fisherman. 
 Up to the last days allotted him on earth, he could find 
 pleasure by the brawling stream, and although his eye had 
 lost its brilliancy, and his hand its quickness, still, 
 numerous were the fine trout and salmon that rewarded 
 his labour. 
 
 Doubtless it is from my father that I inherit the 
 enthusiasm for field sports which has induced me to seek 
 game in almost every portion of the globe — not only for 
 the sake of slaughter, but in order to study the habits and 
 instincts of animals. Nor am I satiated. The table may 
 lose its attractions, the wine-cup cease to gratify, and the 
 majority of the amusements of youth become stale and 
 
 * Vide original copy of Colonel Hanoker's work on shooting. 
 
10 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 and mortar. Hereupon the polecat, finding the position 
 untenable, made a saUy, but he was unable to fight 
 through his foes, and a moment later, game little Gip had 
 him by the loins, in a grip which would have killed a 
 much larger adversary. The odour which the polecat 
 emitted during our efforts to get at him, and after his 
 death, did not frighten the dogs. On the contrary, ever 
 afterwards, when such an efluvia would greet their 
 nostrils, the hair on their backs would rise, and their eyes 
 flash with more than ordinary excitement. 
 
 My first shooting experiences began at school in the 
 neighbourhood of the beautiful town of Hamilton, 
 Lanarkshire. On returning, after the holidays, one of 
 our number related how, during his visit at home, he had 
 fired a gun and killed the object of his aim. He dilated 
 with such flowing language upon the pleasures of shooting, 
 and the ease with which one could become a crack shot, 
 that we all became smitten with an eager longing to be 
 possessors of a gun. A collection among my school- 
 fellows, amounting to twelve and sixpence, was made for 
 this purpose, and a committee of three appointed to super- 
 intend the outlay of the public funds. The starter of the 
 idea was of course selected as one of the honourable trio, 
 for he had become a great man, in the estimation of his 
 fellows, since his home-exploits. I also was honoured 
 with ofl&ce, because my father was a military man, and 
 because I was destined to serve my Queen and country, 
 and was therefore expected to know more of fire-arms and 
 their use than the common crowd. The third — and here 
 the sense of my countrymen was exhibited — was selected 
 for his shrewdness in making bargains, for although he 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. H 
 
 never spent any money, or brought playthings from home, 
 yet always before the term was over, his stock of tops, 
 marbles, bats, and balls exceeded all others. What he was 
 in boyhood he is now in mature years — shrewd and 
 prudent then, he is now a wealthy but still hard-working 
 successful foreign merchant. 
 
 Having secretly made enquiries, we sallied forth one 
 Saturday afternoon to visit a tinkering gunsmith. Long 
 and serious was our conference. At length a bargain was 
 struck — I might rather say that we obtained three 
 bargains; namely, an old and dilapidated gun-stock, the 
 lock of an antic[uated horse-pistol, and a barrel, red with 
 rust, but declared to be of most superior quality. The 
 smith undertook to put these together, and have them 
 ready for use that day week. 
 
 The intermediate time passed slowly. Friday had 
 arrived, when a most serious and previously unforeseen 
 difficulty arose. Who was to go for the gun ? All shirked 
 this responsible duty; to carry fire-arms, even through 
 back streets, in broad daylight, was more than any one 
 dared. First one was saddled with the task, then 
 another, each in his turn being accused of cowardice 
 when he refused. Angry words ensued, and even a 
 battle, in which one of the combatants got a severe black 
 eye. At length we determined to cast lots to decide who 
 was to perform the objectionable office, and the unlucky 
 number fell to me. School was dismissed at the usual 
 hour on the important Saturday; my companions were to 
 assemble in a little copse in a neighbouring orchard, where 
 I was to join them with the gun. When I reached the 
 gunsmith, and received our purchase, I confided my fears 
 
12 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 to its vendor. Fortunately I -did so, for he truly proved a 
 friend, and despatched his assistant with the treasure to 
 the place of rendezvous, which I reached by a different 
 route. With due comments, and advice from all, under 
 the supervision of the gunsmith's boy, ouj single barrel 
 was loaded. To whom was the honour of the first shot to 
 be confided ? With universal acclamation, the companion 
 who had shot during the holidays was selected ; but to our 
 surprise he modestly declined the offer. Some went so far 
 as to say he was a muff and afraid, and had never fired 
 a gun in his life; but even such insinuations would not 
 alter his determination. As the gunsmith's assistant was 
 second choice, he took the weapon with the air of a man ; 
 his courage and manner made a great impression, and he 
 temporarily became a hero. Next, we looked out for a 
 victim. Each limb and bough was searched, and at length 
 an unfortunate robin, whistling, yet shivering in the cold 
 autumnal atmosphere, was found. The crowd halted; 
 the adventurous marksman advanced; some dared the 
 advice that "Kow was the time ! You are close enough!" 
 What impertinence to pretend to know more of projectiles 
 and their range than a gunmaker's assistant! Closer, 
 closer he crept, with cautious, measured stride ; every be- 
 holder held his breath ; not five yards severed the songster 
 from his destroyer ; the gun was raised, an aim taken — oh ! 
 such a long aim— from its length, doubtless, we considered 
 it very deadly — a report followed, aU rushed to the scene, 
 and scarcely more than a bunch of feathers remained to 
 tell the tale of the murdered robin ! 
 
 Various were our successes that day ; we brought down 
 a blackbird and a thrush, while I winged a house-sparrow 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. 13 
 
 Then with our game and the gun dismembered, we 
 stealthily, like guilty marauders, sought the awe-inspiring 
 school precincts. Shooting was, you may suppose, the sole 
 subject of that evening's conversation. Those who had 
 been so fortunate as to kill were heroes; those who had 
 missed were never tired asking for details which might 
 ensure success. 
 
 As our gun required washing after so much work, a 
 quiet hour, when all in the house were supposed to have 
 retired to rest, was selected for the purpose. Portions 
 of shirts, with innumerable pocket-handkerchiefs, were 
 sacrificed, and voluntarily offered for this service, when, to 
 the surprise of all, in walked the Dominie ! All fled to 
 their couches in dismay, and our well-prized and well- 
 proved gun fell into the hands of the enemy, never again 
 to revert to its rightful owners. Not only did we suffer 
 this loss, but on Monday all were arraigned ; the surrep- 
 titious introduction of the weapon formed the subject of a 
 court of enquiry, and each of the supposed ringleaders got 
 a right good birching. 
 
 Months roUed by. The punishment I had received on 
 the occasion just noted had lost much of its effect through 
 the lapse of time, and I was again seduced into a shooting 
 escapade. A big boy, two years older than myself, had 
 arranged with a cotter for the loan of a gun at the rate of 
 sixpence for the afternoon. Funds, however, were wanted 
 for ammunition ; and as I was known to be well supplied, 
 and, at the same time, trustworthy, I was admitted into 
 partnership. Without mishap we arrived at our hunting- 
 ground, the margin of a brook, near which rabbits had 
 been seen. With "Bunny'' our acquaintance did not 
 
14 Adventures tn many Lands. 
 
 amount to intimacy. At last a water-hen was " flushed ;" 
 she flew into a tree, where she was ignominiously and 
 unfeelingly slaughtered. When our game was picked up, 
 a horrible thought struck us. Perhaps we had been guilty 
 of a violation of the game-laws. The dead bird and the 
 gun would certainly lead to our detection, and then we 
 should be shut up in gaol. Accordingly, we resolved to 
 hide the gun in some grass, and sink the bird in the first 
 deep pool we reached, by tying a stone to its feet. Our 
 guilty conscience for many a long day caused us to bury 
 this secret in our bosoms. In fact, for weeks after the 
 transaction, any unusually forcible ring at the hall door 
 caused my heart to jump into my throat, as I felt 
 certain it must emanate from an officer of the law, 
 endowed with powers which would justify our arrest, dead 
 or alive. 
 
 At length school-days ended — alas, that they should! 
 for my young friends will find, as time rolls on, that they 
 are not the least happy of their life — and I accepted, 
 with the approval of my parents, an invitation from a 
 relation to Greysouthen, Cumberland. This was a delight- 
 ful visit. I was actually trusted with a double-barrelled 
 gun, and had a pony to ride on. Which I enjoyed the 
 most, it would be difficult to say. During one portion of 
 the day I was on horseback, during the other I was dealing 
 destruction to the feathered beauties that came in my way. 
 Now that I am older, and, I hope, wiser, I regret having 
 been the cause of such objectless massacres. 
 
 As for the pony, I broke his knees whilst taking a 
 fence large enough for a thorough-bred to tumble over, 
 and he was therefore unfit for work till time had patched 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. 15 
 
 up the injury. For shooting by accident an old and 
 valued hen belonging to a neighbouring Quakeress lady, 
 I was deprived of fire-arms; and without gun, without 
 horse, I became most miserable. They had, in fact, become 
 part and parcel of my existence, and to be deprived of 
 them was the greatest punishment I could s,uffer. 
 
 Moping about one day, not knowing what to do, I was 
 followed by a terrier of well-known pluck, for I and dogs 
 of all degrees were ever intimate. I entered a large grass 
 field, in the lower portion of which a flock of geese were 
 feeding on the margin of a horse-pond. Without thought, 
 I^prdered "Pincher" into the water, probably with the 
 .inception of intimidating the birds; but he mistook my 
 meaijiaf, and seized the gander by the neck ; the rest of 
 th^' flock rushed to the rescue, and, to save the dog's life, 
 I had to wade up to my waist to assist him. It was a 
 splendid fight. The dog's pluck would not permit him to 
 surrender or let go the enemy, while the bird's comrades 
 stuck to their chief with the most persistent courage. 
 Doubtless, but for a stick I had picked up and used with 
 hearty good- will, "Pincher" would have been drowned. 
 As it was, he received numerous severe bruises, but, in 
 return, he deprived the gander of life. However, my 
 escapade had been seen; the story was exaggerated, and, 
 after a lecture on the disgrace attached to such heinous 
 ' conduct, I was, sorely against my will, despatched home 
 to Scotland. 
 
 With advancing years my love for shooting and fishing 
 increased. Cricket and foot-ball were neglected ; peg-tops 
 and marbles ceased to be attractive. I craved solely for 
 the excitement of field sports. At length a chance 
 
16 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 occurred. A kiad old relative paid my father a visit, and 
 on leaving '^aye me a very substantial "tip," a portion of 
 which I determined to spend in a fishing excursion to the 
 Highlands. A description of the capture of my first 
 salmon, which happened in the Crow Eiver, near Arrochar, 
 Argyllshire, may not be uninteresting. 
 
 In less than an hour I reached the spot where 
 I intended to commence operations. I was not a little 
 disappointed to find the water stUl too thick ; but I hoped, 
 by using different varieties of red hackles, to pick up a few 
 fish along the shallow edges of the rapids. My luck was 
 not good, and by the time the sun had reached its greatest 
 altitude, I began to despair of a heavy basket, and disgust 
 at want of success took a strong hold of my feelings. My 
 appetite also put in a claim for attention; so, seating 
 myself on a boulder close to the water, I enjoyed with 
 no very enviable feelings my frugal and Umited meal — 
 
 "Nursing my wrath to keep it warm." 
 
 Having thus dawdled away a couple of hours, I was 
 warned by the decline of the sun that I had still some 
 distance to walk. Picking up my rod and landing-net in 
 order to put my intentions into operation, I was surprised 
 by the splash of a heavy fish not twenty yards below me, 
 in the clear water formed by the entrance of a mountain 
 rivulet, which, owing to its lesser size, had settled sooner 
 than the larger stream. Not having seen the distui-ber, I 
 thought it was probably a large brook trout, or, perhaps, a 
 sea one — more likely the former — as the season had not 
 yet arrived for these active and silvery beauties to miarate 
 from their salt-water abodes. With bent back, and 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. 17 
 
 cautious, steady step, I ■ advanced to within casting 
 distance. My heart beat faster, and all my knowledge 
 was put into practice in order that I might throw a light 
 and skilful fly. My father was a fisherman. What a 
 triumph, if I should kUl a larger fish than he had ever 
 killed ! With what pride should I display my prize, and 
 afterwards narrate my prowess ! Moreover, should I any 
 longer be considered to be a boy ? Should I not have a 
 right to claim a position among acknowledged anglers ? 
 Such thoughts as these passed through my brain with the 
 rapidity of electricity. How anxiously did I pray for 
 success ! What advantage would I not have taken, if 
 opportunity had offered, in order to become the possessor 
 of so noble a prize! I even fear I might have been 
 tempted to use a gaff or fish-spear to accomplish my 
 object, if those implements had only been within my 
 reach. 
 
 My trail fly had scarcely touched the water, when a dull, 
 sullen plunge was made at it, and the dark, broad back 
 of a well-grown salmon showed itself Instinctively, and 
 instantaneously with the splash, I struck, and with delight 
 felt that I held fast a foe whose claims to supremacy 
 among the _ piscatorial tribe have never been disputed. 
 The fish appeared scarcely to be aware of the dangerous 
 game it was playing, as for some minutes it remained 
 stationary, and one might have been doubtful of his 
 capture, but for the tremulous motion that passed up the 
 line and rod to my hand. For several minutes the salmon 
 remained in statu quo, but on my putting on a little 
 additional pressure, my eyes were quickly opened, for with 
 the speed of a race-horse making a Chiffney inish, or of a 
 
18 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 wild duck descending to its feeding-ground in a gale of 
 wind, the salmon statted down stream. I had but a 
 hundred and forty feet of line on my reel, and unless I 
 followed, I felt certain he would soon run it out and 
 smash everything. Down the river after the foe I started — 
 flying, running, and jumping over stones, gullies, and rocks 
 which, under ordinary circumstances, I should have looked 
 at and thought over twice before facing. In this manner, 
 at least two hundred and fifty yards of the roughest 
 ground was passed at a quicker pace than I have ever 
 been able to accomplish before or since. This spurt had 
 evidently tired the fish, which, if it could only have 
 known how much worse was my state, would have " kept 
 up the steam" a little longer, as half-a-dozen strides 
 would have fairly disabled me. '&\xt fortuna favet fortibus. 
 The fish now changed its tactics, slackening its pace to 
 one of four miles an hour, and keeping deeper down than 
 previously." I did not lose this opportunity of reeling up 
 all line I dared take in, and getting myself in "preparation, 
 and especially in breathing condition, for the next " heat." 
 One thing which makes salmon more difficult to handle 
 than all other fish is the uncertainty of its movements. 
 You lose one through some new stratagem, and you make 
 up your mind to be prepared to counteract it when the 
 next opportunity offers ; but what is your surprise when 
 directly opposite tactics are adopted, so that by avoiding 
 Scylla you run into Charybdis. A salmon is also a fish 
 of very enlarged ideas. It appears to have a perfect 
 disregard of distance; and when it makes a start, if not 
 stopped, it leaves the impression that it is off to the other 
 side of the ocean or the Antipodes. My fish continued 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. 19 
 
 now to sail up and down, within fifteen or twenty yards, 
 and keeping close to the bottom. I was struck by an 
 insane idea to have a good look at my beauty, and I put 
 pressure on my rod (a very light, twelve-foot trout one), 
 but without the slightest effect. The fish's weight, 
 combiaed with his strength, was such that my tackle 
 must have broken had I persisted. In moving along the 
 precipitous bank my foot displaced a stone, which rolled 
 into the river with a splash. The hint was evidently all 
 that was wanted, and off went my friend again, with all its 
 previous celerity ; but this run was not quite so long as its 
 predecessor, and, as a little alteration in the programme, 
 the fish finished the " burst " by jumping three times out of 
 the water, giving me a good opportunity of estimating its 
 weight and proportions ; previous experience told me that, 
 judging from its contour, it would weigh about fifteen 
 pounds. The two heats had done their work, or the fish 
 was in a more amiable state of mind, as, with care, I could 
 now stop its course, and keep it closer to the surface, 
 though an occasional angry dash of its tail warned me not 
 to attempt too many liberties. I kept my eyes on the alert 
 for a piece of gravel-bank on which to coax it from its 
 element, having dropped my landing-net in the excitement 
 of the first race because it was too small; but this 
 was rather precipitate, for not more than half my work 
 was over. Up and down I walked, giving line and taking 
 it in as opportunity offered, and I began to think that I 
 was more of a victim than my. attacM. For over forty 
 minutes had I been playing my fish and taking the most 
 violent exercise, undergoing at the same time the greatest 
 mental excitement, and yet I was apparently as far from 
 
20 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 success as at the start. The only part of the river I could 
 find where the bank sufficiently shelved to slide the fish 
 ashore was on the other side, so across I went. These 
 mountain brooks are treacherous things to wade ; from six 
 inches of water, the next step you take may be up to 
 your neck, if not farther; and if, when so agreeably 
 situated, the enemy should take another fancy, and 
 challenge you to a third heat, good-bye to all your 
 hopes — your castles in the air would most ruthlessly be 
 demolished. After getting in up to my waist, I safely 
 landed without accident, and, after one or two unsuccessful 
 attempts, got my prey into shoal water, out of which, with 
 a dexterous hoist with both hands, I transferred it to Urra 
 f/rma. My fatigue, exertion, and wetting were now all 
 forgotten, and I fairly yelled with pleasure. Again and 
 again I looked at my victim, and never tired of admiring 
 its gigantic and highly-developed proportions. Many and 
 many a time have I recalled that day, and remember with 
 greater pleasure the killing of my first salmon than almost 
 any sporting bout in an adventurous life. 
 
 Next year, I removed to Ireland, with my parents. 
 Our residence was in the centre of a good shooting and 
 fishing county ; and as my education was supposed to be 
 completed, I had nothing to do but enjoy myself. Those 
 were happy days. I can never forget them. With what 
 pleasure did I exhibit to my dear old father the results 
 of my exertions and skiU ! how delighted did I feel on 
 receiving his commendation ! And then, when my beloved 
 mother would express uneasiness lest I should over-fatigue 
 myself or catch cold, I would cast my arms around her, 
 and kiss away all her alarms. Take my advice, youn" 
 
Boyhood and Mischief. 21 
 
 gentlemen : value and respect your parents while they are 
 with you ; for when it is the will of Providence to remove 
 them, their place can never be refilled. Their solicitude 
 is the result of pure unselfish affection, such as you will 
 never find in the world afterwards. 
 
 But time fled on rapidly. I became fretful and 
 unsettled. A desire to roam had taken possession of 
 me, and no longer had small game the same attraction 
 as formerly. At night, in my dreams, tigers and bears 
 howled around me; at one moment, I had a hairbreadth 
 escape ; next, I shot single-handed the dreaded man-eater ; 
 till I became so discontented and uneasy that I shunned 
 society, and kept entirely to myself, thinking solely of 
 what I could do, and would do, when I went out into the 
 world and became my own master. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 MY FIRST STEEPLECHASE. 
 
 ABOUT this period of my life I got into a sad scrape. 
 A thoroughbred mare, which my father had possessed 
 and ridden as his charger for many years, was the dam of a 
 four-year-old colt, very handsome and valuable. This colt 
 was the old gentleman's pet. Every day he visited it in 
 the stable, and seldom without taking it a piece of bread 
 or sugar. Several times I had been permitted to mount 
 this horse, and once to ride him with hounds. I soon 
 found out that he was remarkably fast, and a very clever 
 " fencer." 
 
 In our neighbourhood there lived a young fellow, a few 
 years over my age, half gentleman, half jockey. As he 
 was known to be a gambler, and not over-scrupulous in 
 horse-flesh transactions, his character was not highly 
 esteemed. With uneasiness my parents saw us often 
 together, and I was repeatedly warned, though in vain 
 that such society would do me injury. 
 
 Eeturning on my pony one morning from the post-town. 
 
My First Steeplechase. 23 
 
 I met the forbidden associate. He had been schooling 
 a slashing-looking, big, raw-boned chestnut, and spoke 
 enthusiastically of its performances. As a belt of good 
 galloping grass-land stretched along the road, I asked 
 him to show me how his new acquisition moved, upon 
 which he gave the nag his head, and shook him into a 
 three-quarter gallop. After traversing two or three 
 hundred yards, he ran his mount at a wall at the end of 
 the enclosure, four feet high, or possibly more. The 
 chestnut topped it cleverly, to the delight of his rider. 
 
 "Wouldn't you like such a flyer in your stables?" said 
 he ; " he can beat any horse in the county, either on the 
 flat or across country." 
 
 Now, although there was no denying the excellence of 
 the horse in question, I felt perfectly certain that my 
 father's favourite, " Sir Charles," with anything like proper 
 allowance of weight for age, could " run away from " such 
 an antagonist. Nor did I hesitate to say so — a remark 
 which resulted in a challenge. At first I declined, 
 knowing that my father would not let me have "Sir 
 Charles" for such a purpose; but being unmercifully 
 chaffed, up to the verge of insult, I accepted the proposal. 
 
 The amount of the stakes was a mere trifle, yet at the 
 same time as large a sum as my small purse would allow, 
 and, upon being pressed over and over again to double the 
 bets, I was obliged to confess with shame to my antagonist 
 that I had no more money. 
 
 That evening we met at a farm-house, and arranged the 
 distance, place, and date of the race. We selected the 
 day on which my father was in the habit of going to a 
 neighbouring city to draw his pay. Before the event came 
 
24 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 off, I succeeded in obtaining permission, through my mother's 
 intercession, to take "Sir Charles" out, and each time I 
 did so you may be sure he got a good "breather." As it 
 •would not do to take the colt home warm, I arranged that 
 a stable attacM should meet me some distance off, where a 
 scrape and a rub-down could be given without attracting 
 attention, and the horse come liome not looking the worse 
 for his exercise. As time passed, and the eventful date 
 approached, more and more did I wish to retire from the 
 engagement, even if I had to pay forfeit of all the stakes ; 
 but a false pride intervened. I would not listen to the 
 still small warning voice of conscience, and continued to 
 act a part towards those who loved me of which I ought 
 to have been heartily ashamed. 
 
 With nervous anxiety, I saw my father depart on his 
 quarterly errand. An hour afterwards, and only a few 
 minutes before the colt should have received his noonday 
 feed, I mounted on his back, and started for the place of 
 rendezvous. On reaching it, I found, to my surprise, 
 quite a number of labourers and servants assembled. The 
 proceedings, which I had hoped would not be known 
 by any but ourselves, had leaked out; in fact, I found 
 that my adversary had been betting on the results, and 
 consequently all who had thus obtained a monied interest 
 were naturally anxious to be spectators. 
 
 The chestnut stripped admirably — possibly a little low 
 in flesh; still he was much improved. The knocks and 
 bangs which he had shown on my first seeing him, and 
 which gave him rather a " stale " look, had all disappeared. 
 My expectation of winning was therefore much shaken, 
 and but for the spectators I should have even now retired ; 
 
My First Steeplechase. 25 
 
 for I feared that, if I won, it would be after a hard struggle, 
 which the colt was not in a condition to endure. 
 
 On all sides I heard the odds freely given in favour of 
 my adversary, with but few takers. At length, when a 
 blustering fellow, whom I knew by eyesight — he was a 
 cattle-dealer — offered four to one against "Sir Charles," 
 and some time was passed without an accepter, I was 
 almost on the point of booking it myself, when a quiet, 
 inoffensive-looking man took up the offer, and entered it, 
 at the same time observing that, sooner than disappoint 
 any one, he would not decline repeating the operation. 
 This revived my courage. 
 
 Just as the race was about to be run, I was joined by 
 the silent personage, who apologised for interrupting me, 
 and then gave me the following instructions: — "Young 
 gentleman, I'm an old hand, and know a deal more than 
 I seem to; I have known that chestnut since he was a 
 yearling, and I know his failiilgs and his good points, for 
 I have often had a leg over him. Just take my advice : 
 make a waiting race of it. Let him lead you till the last 
 jump is over; and then, if you can't beat him in the 
 straight run home at the finish, the fault is yours, not 
 your horse's. There's a stone in your favour ; and big as 
 the other looks, he never could carry weight ; them that's 
 tallest on their" pins hain't always the most substance." 
 
 I saw at once that the unknown speaker was correct in 
 his idea of how the race should be ridden, and no person, 
 fortunately, had overheard his instructions. 
 
 After a glance at the girths, I quietly gained my saddle, 
 and joined my adversary, who was impatiently waiting my 
 arrival, for his mount was extremely fidgety. Without 
 
26 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 difficulty we got away, the chestnut forcing the running, 
 and hauling his rider nearly out of his seat. I followed 
 without pushing, and, ere a quarter of a mile was passed, 
 found, to my great relief, that my foe was far inferior in 
 speed, provided he was now really going his best. 
 
 None of the fences exceeded the average of hunting- 
 jumps, excepting the last, which was a post and raUs, with 
 water on the landing-side. This leap, although stiffish, 
 was only awkward from a drop in the ground where you 
 came to it ; and from previous experience of " Sir 
 Charles's '' capacities, I had little dread but that he would 
 be able and willing to take me safely over. 
 
 Up to this time scarcely four strides had separated us. 
 Evidently it had been the object of my opponent to force 
 the pace. As we approached the last fence, he found out 
 that such a game was impossible, and so adopted a new 
 stratagem, which is often successful when a young horse is 
 the opponent. He rushed his horse at the last fence, and 
 caused the animal to baulk, just as he gathered his legs 
 under him to make the leap. But I was too close abreast 
 of him for the ruse to succeed. With a touch of spur and 
 whip, as well as a word of encouragement, " Sir Charles," 
 without faltering, rose to his leap, and, as the saying goes, 
 took me half-way into the next field ere he touched ground 
 again. My adversary knew that he was beaten. He never 
 attempted to make up lost distance; and so I cantered 
 past the wianing-post an easy conqueror. 
 
 Boy-like, and even man-like, I felt no small amount of 
 pleasure at the result, though my conscience warned me 
 that my father would be excessively annoyed when the 
 story reached his ears. Had I possessed courage to endure 
 
My First Steeplechase. . 27 
 
 the chaff about being still in the nursery which was 
 showered down upon me, I should not have been in my 
 present difficulty. 
 
 I got my horse home without exciting suspicion. Even 
 the old groom made no remarks on his appearance, for, 
 previous to returning, " Sir Charles " had undergone, 
 behind a hay-rick, a good grooming from two able-bodied 
 stable lads; nor had he suffered in heart, for never did 
 I feel the brave colt travel homewards more jauntily. 
 Still I was uneasy, and again and again during the few 
 hours preceding my father's return I visited his stall. 
 Fortunately he continued aU right. He emptied his 
 manger with more than his usual appetite ; and I was 
 thankful to find that, although I had been disobedient 
 and deceitful, I had not done the animal injury. 
 
 At length the old gentleman returned. A dark frown 
 had settled upon his face, and when he told me in a 
 peremptory manner that he wished to see me in his 
 room, I knew the secret was out. I wiU pass over what 
 happened, except to say that my father perceived that 
 travelling was the best remedy for my restless, adventurous 
 spirit, and gave me permission to go abroad. 
 
 By this time I had become a proficient in the use of 
 the gun and rod. I had already killed almost every 
 description of British game, as well as sundry salmon. I 
 had also learned to tie either a trout or salmon fly with 
 a dexterity equal to that of a professional. Hitherto I had 
 shot for the sake of boasting of the numbers I could bag; 
 but a change, possibly resulting from my skill, now took 
 place. The habits of game and its modes of life became 
 my constant study. To see my setters hunt and display 
 
28 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 their sagacity was a great enjoyment ; to see the game go 
 off scathless, although in my power, was a still greater 
 pleasure. 
 
 Since then I have ceased to shoot when my bag has 
 been sufficiently replenished, and my forbearance has 
 produced a higher feeling of satisfaction than I should 
 have otherwise experienced. 
 
 I am glad to say that the class of naturalist-sportsmen 
 is rapidly increasing — of men who shoot for the sake of 
 the exercise it necessitates and pleasure it produces, 
 and who are satisfied with a moderate remuneration ; a 
 class very different from those who crave for wholesale 
 slaughter, and feel gratification only in having brought 
 to bag every unfortunate that was " flushed " before them. 
 All who shoot are not really sportsmen; many of them 
 should rather be called butchers. 
 
 It is the same with horsemanship. If an emergency 
 arise, such as sickness or imperative and undelayable 
 business, it is excusable to ride a horse till he suffer 
 from extreme fatigue ; but if such an ordeal is demanded 
 simply to gratify a whim or a caprice, it is an offence that 
 should be unpardonable in the eyes of all right-thinking 
 persons. 
 
 A very short time before going abroad, I killed my first 
 deer. It was thus: the park wall of a neighbouring 
 nobleman's demesne, the late Lord Massarene's of Antrim, 
 had for upwards of a hundred yards been blown down • 
 half-a-dozen deer had in consequence escaped, and had 
 been killed, one by one, in detail, with the exception of an 
 old buck, who eluded all pursuit. Shooting rabbits one 
 evening, I observed his track in the margin of a field of 
 
My First Steeplechase, 29 
 
 young wheat. On a further examination, I found several 
 " forms " where he had lain, while the farmer who owned 
 the crop informed me that he had seen the buck on 
 numerous occasions, and, further, expressed a desire that 
 some one would shoot him, as he was doing much damage. 
 For several evenings at sunset I took a stand, in each 
 instance guided by the wind, as I learned the marauder 
 always entered at the same spot. However, for over a 
 week I was unsuccessful. Being foiled so often, I had almost 
 determined to give up the chase; but an acquaintance 
 of my family, who had paid us a visit, begged of me to 
 make one more effort, and let him be my companion. 
 
 Half-an-hour before the sun went down, we reached our 
 hunting-ground, and disposed ourselves behind a portion 
 of a fence, which offered such shelter as would screen us 
 from observation. 
 
 Long and anxiously we lay perdus, and were about to 
 retire, disgusted at our want of success, when to our 
 delight the object of our visit made his appearance. The 
 light was gradually waning, and with anxiety we watched 
 his slow and guarded approach to the ambuscade. My 
 companion was to shoot first. At length I gave him 
 the signal so to do, and, following the report, the buck 
 sprung into the air, and at a slashing gallop made for a 
 neighbouring wood. I pitched my rifle and took a steady 
 aim. The shot was a long one ; still, the bullet told, for 
 again the deer showed indications of being hit, by almost 
 coming on his knees, and with difficulty recovering himself, 
 afterwards departing at an accelerated pace for parts 
 unknown. Next day the buck was found dead, nearly 
 a couple of miles off. The first shot had grazed him in 
 
30 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 front of the shoulder; the second had hit him in an 
 excellent line, but with rather too much elevation to Mil 
 him on the spot. 
 
 Before leaving the British Islands and home — those 
 ties so delightful to be remembered — I will add another 
 adventure. I was stationed with my regiment — then the 
 1st or Eoyal Scots — at Fermoy, in County Cork, and as it 
 was the summer season, and the fishing was excellent, I 
 was in the habit, whenever I was off duty, of spending a 
 large portion of my time on the edge of the river Bride. 
 With many years' experience and frequent visits to the 
 most celebrated fishing-streams, I have never, in the course 
 of my life, met with a rivulet so admirably adapted for the 
 use of the fly as that picturesque and beautiful tributary 
 of the Blackwater. In addition to the water being as clear 
 as crystal, it flows through as rich a valley of cultivated 
 land as it would be possible to find. The margin is 
 almost entirely free from obstructions, thus affording 
 ample space in which to cast a long line. During the 
 heat of the day I had not been blessed with much success, 
 and as I was aware that towards sunset the fish would be 
 on the feed, and that probably I should be able to make 
 up any deficiency, I resolved to remain. The village of 
 Rathcormack was near ; so I dismembered my rod and took 
 possession of the well-sanded parlour of the hotel, ordering 
 the ubiquitous waiter to furnish me with the standing dish 
 in those parts — rashers and eggs — with which to allay my 
 increasing appetite. I have always had an affection for 
 eating a meal in one of those neat waiyside taverns, with 
 their white-sanded floors. However simple it might be, 
 whatever you partake of is so plain, yet appetising, that 
 
My Fir si Steeplechase. 31 
 
 after the luxury of mess-dinners the contrast is a relief 
 As the sun approached the horizon, I re-started to try my 
 luck, and soon had reason to congratulate myself on the 
 result. The fish were fairly ravenous, and although they 
 did not run large, I rapidly fiUed my creel with those of the 
 size most acceptable at the breakfast-table. I fished two 
 pools with the above success, and had moved down to the 
 third, where, owing to its being deeper and less frequented, 
 I had little doubt I should do even better. The first few 
 casts assured me that my suppositions were correct, and 
 many a handsome, brilliant-hued trout was added to my 
 already plenteous store. Down the stream I travelled, till 
 I stood upon a gravel-bank where the water was contracted 
 and more rapid. Several more fish were captured, and 
 as the light had become dubious, I had made up my 
 mind to stop further proceedings. Whilst taking a few 
 farewell casts, I observed something swimming on the 
 surface, which at first I took to be a dog; but on closer 
 examination the physiognomy was so totally different from 
 any canine animal I had ever seen, that I was forced to 
 conclude I was mistaken. What could it be ? I turned 
 the question over in my mind, and at last came to the 
 conclusion that it was nothing more or less than an otter. 
 These amphibii, I was aware, were well known all along 
 the lovely valley pf the Blackwater, and more particularly 
 in the vicinity of the picturesque grounds of Castle Hyde, 
 and my present apparition, without doubt, had come from 
 these haunts, deservedly lauded for their beauty. The 
 animal, apparently, did not perceive me, so actively was 
 he employed on his own private affairs. Several times he 
 dived and as rapidly rose to the surface, stemming the 
 
32 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 rapid current with an ease and dexterity far excelling any 
 terrestrial animal of my acquaintance. From the moment 
 of noticing the stranger I had stood motionless, and by 
 degrees he had steadily advanced tiU just abreast of my 
 position, and not over forty feet from me. A strange idea 
 struck me : why not throw my flies over him, and, with 
 a quick strike, stick a hook in his glossy, well-clad hide ? 
 Acting on the spur of the moment, I made my cast, and, 
 with the fir-st effort, had a contestant fast at the end of my 
 line a thousand times more troublesome than I have ever 
 had before or since. Owing to my paying out line at one 
 moment, the next minute gently taking it in, and always 
 retaining a steady strain, the despoiler of hundreds of the 
 finny tribe, though making every effort that he thought 
 would avail him in such an emergency, could not free 
 himself from the insidious barb. My line was strong, but 
 my rod light and very pliable; so I discarded the latter, 
 and, having run out through the rings the greater portion 
 of what my reel contained, I played the adversary as if 
 with a hand-line. Flesh and blood could not .stand the 
 issue further, and at length, by wading nearly up to my 
 knees, I succeeded in getting my antagonist into the 
 landing-net, which, fortunately, was an unusually large, 
 strong, and deep one. So far, I had succeeded admirably, 
 but how to retain my prisoner and keep him a captive, 
 I knew not. His formidable molars, when he had time 
 to think a bit, would soon free him ; and to keep my prize, 
 if possible, I was determined. A new thought struck me. 
 If I could only get his tail, which hung over the edge of 
 the landing-net, into the sleeve of my coat, and tie it 
 tightly round with a string, his flight would be so impeded 
 
My First Steeplechase. 33 
 
 tliat, with a fair open country for our run, I had little 
 douht but that I would be the fleeter of the two, the other 
 having a very awkward, although not heavy, handicap. 
 Without delay I attempted the process, and never in the 
 course of my life had I so hard a game. StiU I stuck to 
 it, and, what with putting my foot on his neck and trying 
 to hold him on the ground, breaking my rod, and getting 
 the slack of the line round my feet so as to hamper me 
 almost inextricably, I at length secured my prey. With 
 much difficulty and several nearly successful attempts on 
 his part at escape, I gained the village, when I snugly put 
 my captive in the weU of an Irish car, and brought him 
 home in triumph. 
 
 On close inspection, I found that I had only a kitten, 
 or, in other words, a half-grown otter, to deal with. Save 
 me from thus tackling one that had attained maturity, if 
 their strength and unconquerable determination increase 
 in due ratio with their stature ! For some days the brute 
 was sulky and untouchable, but, within a week, he had 
 formed a great attachment for a Skye terrier which I 
 possessed, and, in a month from the date of capture, 
 became so reconciled to his new home and master, that he 
 would follow me wherever I went, provided the dog was 
 one of the party. Por months I kept him, and he would 
 bask with delight in front of a good fire, with a gusto that 
 was indisputable; and quite a good understanding had 
 sprung up between us, when, unfortunately, he strayed 
 out into the barrack-yard without a protector, and was 
 pounced upon by a savage greyhound, who rapidly enlisted 
 confederates among the useless curs that were near. 
 After making a gallant fight, the stranger had to 
 
34 
 
 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 surrender, bravely struggling to the last against superior 
 numbers. 
 
 I will add another little episode which occurred about 
 this time. While with a bathing party below Castle Hyde, 
 Captain Kenrick, of the 33rd Eegiment, was seized with 
 cramp. All present were alarmed, yet none went to his 
 assistance. As soon as I became cognisant of his position, 
 I plunged in, and, being a strong swimmer, rescued him ; 
 for which service I was thanked after mess by dear old 
 and bravest of the brave Captain M'Kinnah (since killed 
 in front of the Takoo Forts), at that time in command of 
 the depot of my corps. 
 
CHAPTEE III. 
 
 A EXJN WITH THE GIBKALTAK FOXHOUNDS. 
 
 WITH the British Islands I have now done. Let us 
 proceed to a more' sunny land — one teeming with 
 romance and poetry — a land where British blood has often 
 been shed, and British honour often vindicated. Let us 
 repair to Spain, and halt at that famous fortress which 
 guards the entrance to the deep blue Mediterranean Sea. 
 Many a delightful day have I passed on that renowned rock, 
 where the proud British ensign waves within sight of the 
 swarthy Spanish soldiery ; and many a pleasant adventure 
 have I met with in the picturesque country adjoining 
 the Anglo-Saxon stronghold. Gibraltar — familiarly called 
 Gib — although a rock, and of no great proportions, is 
 a most enjoyable station. An officer's duties there are 
 heavy, but the amusements are plentiful. Balls, picnics, 
 riding and boating parties, are in the cool weather in such 
 abundance, that vacant time seldom hangs heavily on your 
 hands. And then those walks along the Almada after 
 mess ! Who can forget the saunters there ? Pretty 
 
36 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 senoritas, bright pairs of eyes, picturesque costumes — such 
 walking Venuses are only to be seen among Andalusian 
 belles. But we must pass over the fair sex, and, instead 
 of the brunette beauties, treat of the spotted ones that 
 form the pack well known to every military man as the 
 Calpd Foxhounds. 
 
 To the noble house of Beaufort, I believe, the Gibraltar 
 garrison are indebted for the establishment of this hunt. 
 For years, drafts from their home-establishment have 
 annually been forwarded as a gift to supply vacancies, 
 for, strange to say, hounds bred at the Eock are deficient 
 in scent. So our readers will see that, if the Calp^ hounds 
 do not kill whenever they meet, the pack is at least 
 composed of material inferior to none in England. In 
 the month of February, 18 — , the powers that then had 
 control of the kennels determined that the next meet 
 should take place at the second tower, Eastern Beach. 
 This is the best riding and safest find in the country ; so 
 it is no wonder that a large field always assembles on 
 such occasions. Even those of the fair sex who were 
 equestrians turned out in force to see the throw off, and 
 perchance have a mile-or-two " breather " within sight, or 
 at least sound, of the melodious beauties. Previous to 
 the day of which I speak, there had been a great deal of 
 friendly competition in the hunting-field between the 
 officers of two regiments that had served shoulder to 
 shoulder in Eussia and afterwards in the' distant East. 
 Even the privates of these corps, I think, never had a 
 squabble; but on the occasion in question it was to be 
 decided who possessed the best horsemen or the best 
 mounted man. The individuals, therefore, who took upon 
 
A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 37 
 
 their shoulders the responsibility of representatives, were 
 doubtless determined to do their utmost to win the laurels. 
 
 The day broke dry and cloudy. A shower during the 
 night had made the soil springy, perhaps a trifle heavy, 
 but otherwise aU foretold a hunting morning rare to be 
 found, and the knot of top-boots that assembled in the mess- 
 room to breakfast congratulated each other on the prospect, 
 interlarding it with no small amount of chaflF as to where 
 various persons would be at the finish of the coming run. 
 
 I possessed a bay stallion at that time, fast and lasting, 
 previously the property of Major Gillum, 54th Eegiment, 
 who, I beUeve, had purchased him from Duff Gordon, 
 a celebrated vineyard proprietor at Herries, in the South 
 of Spain. In the severest runs previously obtained he 
 had proved himself gifted with extraordinary bottom, but 
 a more thorough fiend never was girthed, for both teeth and 
 heels he was equally expert with, and equally prone to 
 make use of. To him fell the honour of being selected 
 for this occasion ; so at an early hour the groom started 
 with him for the place of rendezvous. 
 
 For the first few miles after you pass through the 
 Spanish Hnes, the ride along the Eastern Beach is dreary 
 in the extreme, for a wide slope of sand extends before you, 
 girt on one side by the Mediterranean, on the other by a 
 chain of rugged sierras. Here and there, but far between, 
 an occasional cabin is to be found; and if you should 
 catch a glimpse of the swarthy residents, what between 
 dirt and sunburning, they look as dark as, or darker than, 
 the inmates of a home gipsy-encampment. When a small 
 amount of ground in the vicinity of these domiciles is 
 cultivated, the enclosure is hedged with the flowering aloe. 
 
38 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 which forms a most impenetrable fence. In fact, at 
 Anger, in the island of Java, this same shrub is used as a 
 chevaux de frise around the Dutch earthworks that 
 command the watering-place. The first tower. Eastern 
 Beach, passed, the country begins gradually to improve. 
 The mountains lose much of their rugged and sterile look ; 
 and the flat that extends between them and the sea 
 increases into a wide grass plain, here and there dotted 
 with brush, intersprinkled with an occasional palmetto, a 
 good and not unfrequent cover for red-legged partridge, and 
 a favourite haunt for quail at the periods of migration. 
 A little farther on is a river, on the overflowed edges of 
 which in winter I have bagged many a brace of snipe. 
 
 But we are already at the rendezvous. About thirty 
 members and visitors are assembled, and various little 
 parties are seen in the distance approaching to join in the 
 anticipated run. The hat at length goes round, the master 
 looks pleasant, the huntsman business-like. Wlien each 
 attendant has handed in his mite, time is pronounced to 
 be up, and off we trot to draw a favourite and safe find. 
 To the new arrival from home the Spanish horses look 
 both unsightly and undersized. Still they are "game" 
 "and lasting, though usually slow and mulish; they are 
 admirably adapted to their country, for with unerring foot 
 they will canter over ground so uneven and covered with 
 boulders, that to walk an English horse over the same 
 would most probably result for him in broken knees, or 
 even worse. " The unsightly appearance of these horses is 
 principally caused by their being frequently goose-rumped, 
 with the tail set on unusually low, while the crest and 
 withers of many are remarkably high. 
 
A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 39 
 
 The cover reached at last, at a wave of the master's 
 hand the hounds break in with a rush. Stumps of cigars 
 are now thrown away, hats pressed more firmly on the 
 head, and eligible places selected, according to the -opinion 
 of riders, for getting away with the pack when they break 
 cover. After a few minutes a whimper is heard. " Lady's 
 voice !" a knowing one exclaims in a suppressed 
 whisper. However, all again is still for two or three 
 minutes. Then two or three hounds speak, followed by 
 the whole pack in concert, deep, sonorous, and earnest. 
 The place is certainly too hot ; Pug must break. What's 
 that? Some one shouting "tally-ho!" But alas, what 
 luck! that Spanish shepherd and his curs have headed 
 our game just as it was about to take the best line of 
 country the hunt possesses. Up and down cover the 
 beauties race; Eantipole's deep note awakening the 
 reverberating echoes from the neighbouring hills. And 
 well may he possess such powerful lungs, for seldom was 
 there a truer, stauncher, or more enduring hound. But 
 such work cannot last long in a few acres, and poor Pug, 
 rather than again face the open, gets " chopped." 
 
 From here we took off to another spinney, better even 
 than the first. Our master. Major Blakeney of the 48th 
 Eegiment, is generally a quiet man, but from the expression 
 of his countenance now, I pity the unfortunate who again 
 heads back our quarry. Lord Scamperdale might be more 
 blustering, but I doubt if he could be half so forcible. To 
 prevent such ordeals a short halt takes place,-when we all 
 receive a caution, and again the hounds are thrown in. 
 The ground here is somewhat irregular, but from an 
 overhanging brow a perfect view can be obtained. On 
 
40 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 this are soon perched old field officers, several captains 
 of the former regime, and a goodly array of subs, many 
 looking as if they had only just left school and their 
 mothers' apron-strings. Nothing had yet occurred to thin 
 the field, and many, I won't say of what kind, feel and 
 express delight that they have already been present at 
 a " kill." Soon two or three of the young hounds again 
 open ; the whip-cord is heard in vigorous play, for a brace 
 of deer, instead of our legitimate quarry, steal away over 
 the opposite brow. (By-the-bye, what kind of deer are 
 these ? I have several times seen them, once rode almost 
 on the top of one, and if they are not fallow deer, they 
 bear the strongest resemblance to them I ever saw.) Again 
 the skirters settle to their work, and ere long a perfect 
 Babel of voices foretells game to be on the move. A fox 
 from here was ever known to afford good sport. The 
 cork woods are generally the point made for, and they are 
 not less than ten miles distant. I have just taken up 
 another hole in my girths, and congratulated myself that 
 the crowd of brother subs did not seduce me into a 
 schooling match en route from the one cover to the other, 
 for while their horses look warm and fretted, mine is as 
 cool as at the moment when he left the stable, and glad am 
 I of it, for the old huntsman rattles past, and calls out, 
 " Not one of your horses has a leg too many for the day's 
 work before you." 
 
 We never had a chance of heading either fox or hounds, 
 even supposing it had been desirable ; in fact, it was all 
 the majority of us could do to get away on anything like 
 fair terms. As we enter the lower grounds, the galloping 
 is heavy, and heavy weights and light nags begin to drop 
 
A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 41 
 
 behind. In those days I could ride ten stone; and I do 
 not think there was a horse in the garrison of greater 
 substance and size than my mount, save it were the 
 imported charger of a field-officer, and if so, the owner 
 thought too much of him to let him figure in such an 
 escapade. My nag never appeared to feel stronger under 
 me than on this occasion. Although boring a little, I kept 
 him well within his stride, and, wondrous to say, he was 
 giving his running kindly, and had dispensed with the 
 series of buck jumps and kicks that usually formed the 
 preliminary flourish to a gallop. After the first mile of 
 flat, valley land and the half-dozen jumps that intersected 
 it had been passed over, the field had wonderfully tailed off. 
 The master, the whip, a hard-riding gunner, a big sapper, and 
 an infantry man of the corps already referred to, were still 
 in front. The next flight of the ruck were by my side, 
 many of whom I already saw would not hold out for 
 another mile. In a short time I drew away from the 
 crowd, and soon was close by my antagonist. The four 
 leading men made a ddtowr to the right ; probably because 
 they knew the country better, and saw what was before 
 them. I should have followed the example, but when about 
 to do so, my temporary foe, the crack of the competing 
 corps, called upon me to foUow; I was close at his heels, 
 and could scarcely decline the gauntlet. Before us was 
 a brook with sedgy margin, deep and sullen as a canal. 
 At it we both went at racing pace, my friend a little in 
 advance; and after a scramble on the off-side, for some 
 moments doubtful whether a ducking or not was in store 
 for me, the powerful hind-quarters of my horse carried 
 the day and saved me from a wetting. The hounds had 
 
42 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 now turned to tlie right; those who had gone in that 
 direction had luck on their side, and consequently again 
 cut in front; the ground was stiU soft; yet by keeping 
 my horse well together, I felt he had plenty left in him 
 and to spare. A couple more water-jumps and some 
 meadows were soon got over ; the whip was just in before 
 me, when his horse made a bad flounder, and finished off 
 by coming on his head. Alas ! poor Calpe never rose again ; 
 it was his last run, the finish of a long and gallant career 
 — drawing his last breath with the saddle on, following 
 the pack he had for many years held a good place with. 
 Of course I did not stop for the whip — he was not 
 wanted till feeding-time, so I pushed for the front. The 
 big sapper's weight had commenced to tell; every dig of 
 the spur sent his horse's tail up instead of augmenting 
 his pace, and it required but little experience to see that 
 the honours would be either to the master, the gunner, or 
 myself. For a moment the hounds came to fault on the 
 edge of a stream beside a ford. The master called on me 
 to assist him. A cast was made, when some Spaniards 
 shouted " d sorro " from a neighbouring hill-side. Soon the 
 beauties were lifted and laid on; the soil was firmer and 
 the pace proportionably faster — heads up and tails down ; 
 the spotted pack seem to fly, giving utterance to their 
 feelings in short snatches of song, which invariably 
 foretells the end of the drama, and the close proximity of 
 poor Pug. As we advanced, the ground became rougher, 
 loose boulders were scattered everywhere — just such as a 
 winded horse would toe; but luck favoured us, and all 
 kept their feet. If the field had tailed off, so had the 
 pack; not over four or five couple remained, and these 
 
A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds. 43 
 
 were so closely bunched that, if a sheet would not quite 
 have covered them, it would have nearly done so. Every 
 moment all expected to run into view, and, just as our 
 desire was realised, Pug, draggled and travel-stained, 
 scarcely able to get up more locomotion than a trot, 
 managed to draw himself into an earth. 
 
 We had all had enough. The gunner's horse, as he 
 dismounted, staggered. As for the Major's, I never could 
 tell how he held his own, for the mount was undersized, 
 and rather inclining to the weedy order; however, for 
 many a week afterwards the poor animal did not show in 
 the hunting-field. After a halt, in order to slacken girths 
 and breathe our horses, talk over the run, light a weed, 
 and take a pull at our flasks, home was the word. Saint 
 Eoque was en route. Before we reached there, several 
 straggling hounds had been picked up, and, as we enjoyed 
 a draught of M'Cray's milk punch, others joined. The 
 day was now far spent, the sun was already dipping over 
 the hills that back Algesiras, and if we wished to get into 
 the garrison before gun-fire, it was time to be jogging 
 along. "What remained of the foremost leaders of the pack 
 we had only just time to deposit at their kennel, when the 
 evening gun belched forth the warning that all who desired 
 to sleep within the walls of Gibraltar had better not delay, 
 for the laws against opening the gates are as positive and 
 unchangeable as those of the Medes and Persians. 
 
 The horse that carried me that day is dead. He died 
 in the hunting-field, where his bones, like empty champagne 
 bottles around an Indian or other encampment, remained 
 as a monument to speak of the generous spirit that was 
 contained therein. 
 
CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 RAMBLES IN SPAIN. 
 
 SHOOTING generally commenced at Gibraltar in the 
 month of October, for earlier in the year the weather 
 was too warm to tramp over the rough and stony lull-side in 
 search of red-legged partridges, and the flights of migratory 
 quail then pushing for the southward had not arrived. 
 
 The partridge-shooting, however, seldom lasted over a 
 week or two, for sportsmen are here too numerous in 
 proportion to the quantity of game and the size of the 
 range of accessible country ; but if the visitor should find 
 it convenient to push inland into Spain, say twenty-five 
 or thirty miles, he wiU receive an ample reward for his 
 trouble. Through the cork wood is situated a village, 
 called Boccaleone. It stands upon the margin of the 
 Guadiar, and is surrounded by meadows, which in their 
 turn are encircled by hiUs. Indian corn is the staple 
 production, and in the fields where it is grown I found 
 game abundant; each night, as I returned homewards, 
 quail, partridge, and hares filled the bag. Still farther off. 
 
Rambles in Spain. 45 
 
 about twenty miles inland from Tarifa, is situated an 
 immense marsh, where, besides the afore-mentioned, an 
 abundance of snipe and wild-fowl can be obtained. 
 
 The padri of an adjacent village must not be forgotten, 
 for he was a most genial, good-hearted soul — a hon-vivant 
 and lover of field sports. During my stay I met him 
 daily, and when duty obliged me to bid him farewell, I 
 did so expressing the hope that he might find it convenient 
 to visit the garrison. A month or two afterwards he did 
 so, and became so exceedingly popular with my brother 
 officers that his visit was protracted over a fortnight. 
 
 During the migratory seasons, good quail-shooting can be 
 obtained of a morning at Campeamento, only a couple of 
 miles from the landport gate. But it is the old story of the 
 early bird and the worm. The late riser would find all the 
 game killed or driven off ere he reached the shooting-ground. 
 
 "Wild boar are also to be found, but they are scarce. 
 On one occasion we unkennelled a veteran. Several times 
 he ran the gauntlet through the beaters, but as often 
 was forced on foot again. A final effort for his destruction 
 was made, the force of shooters being so disposed that 
 every known pass was guarded. Among the disciples of 
 the chase was a very tall and proportionably lank engineer. 
 He was armed with a most formidable double-barrel of 
 French manufacture, to the end of which was attached a 
 bayonet, terrible even to look at. Ten minutes of suspense 
 ensued. The beaters, breaking through the brush as they 
 approach the stands, are at length heard. The game must 
 bolt, and bolt it did, between the engineer's legs, while both 
 his bullets deeply bedded themselves in a neighbouring tree, 
 and the sword-bayonet was almost as much doubled up as 
 
46 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 a reaping-hook, for he had been thrown off his legs, obtaining 
 a "purl" that doubtless he even now well remembers. 
 The hog had broken cover just in front of him, and had 
 been unseen and unheard till almost between our friend's 
 legs, when the apparition was so sudden and unexpected 
 that both head and legs were lost at the same time. 
 
 The lower class of Spaniards in the neighbourhood of 
 Gibraltar are, with few exceptions, a most disreputable crew. 
 It is, therefore, advisable to have as little to do with them 
 as possible. Pew seasons pass over without rows occurring 
 between them and our countrymen, and invariably, in my 
 experience, the former have been the aggressors. 
 
 I remember such a contretemps, in which I unfortunately 
 figured, but luckily came off scathless. We were out 
 hunting near the first venta. The hounds were at fault, 
 and, while a cast was being made, I tally-hoed, Pug 
 stealing away. The horse which I that day rode was a 
 black stallion of most uncertain temper — an admirable 
 fencer when he pleased, but that was seldom. Taking 
 my nag in hand, I ran him at a bank intervening between 
 me and where Eeynard passed, in order that I might give 
 the hounds a lift and place them on a fresh trail. This 
 he cleared cleverly, and away went the pack. I tried to 
 follow, but the bad-tempered animal, although he had 
 jumped into the enclosure, could not be induced to jump 
 out. Whip and spur were both plied without effect ; the 
 brute had sullied, and ten minutes at least were required 
 to bully him into his senses. In the meantime a Spaniard 
 armed with a gun, entered the field. Without explanation 
 or question, he coolly threw his gun to his shoulder and 
 took aim at me. I tried to wheel my horse round and ride 
 
Rambles in Spain. 47 
 
 the fellow down, tut being unable to manage it, had to 
 remain a target whether I liked it or not. The gun did 
 not go off. I believe it missed fire, for several times he 
 took it down as if to re-eock it. At length my wretch of a 
 horse thought he had had enough punishment, and I 
 was about to wheel him round and rush at the would-be 
 assassin, when one of my comrades, seeing my position, 
 jumped into the field and felled the Spaniard with the butt 
 of his crop. Neither of us waited to ask any questions 
 as to the effect the blow had produced, but followed after 
 the tail of the hunt. 
 
 The sea-fishing at Gibraltar is very good, but this 
 amusement does not appear to be popular there. Although 
 I devoted much time to it, I could seldom find a companion. 
 One great pleasure I occasionally enjoyed was a trip in 
 the Genoese fishing-boats from Catalin Bay to a bank four 
 or five miles off in the Mediterranean. How delightful- 
 were those calm serene evenings — how perfect the repose 
 — -while every few minutes the deep-voiced conch-shell, 
 used by the fishermen for signalising one another, boomed 
 over the water ! 
 
 My companions on these occasions were the most 
 thorough personification of pirates in appearance, and 
 often in costume — just such as you could imagine, with 
 pistols and stilettoes sticking out of every available place, 
 telling a fellow quietly to " walk the plank," and handing 
 him a cigarette at the same time to cheer him into the 
 next world. Then how brown were their complexions, how 
 black their hair and eyes! and, oh, how they smell of 
 garlic ! a not inappropriate addition. The real pirate, 
 I believe, should always smell of oil and garlic. 
 
48 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 On these banks the take of fish was always large ; and 
 what between pipe and sport, and an occasional snatch of 
 a wild Spanish song, lauding the praises of the reckless 
 contrabandistas, time used to fly rapidly. It was not 
 necessary, however, to go so far as this bank for sport, 
 since all along the rocks, in the bays and indentations, 
 from Europa Point to the Neutral Ground, especially on 
 the Mediterranean side, fish were abundant. 
 
 With strong rod and tackle, and a sardine for bait, what 
 beauties I have captured out of the surf beating on the 
 eastern shore ! For this work your sinker must be heavy, 
 and the angler must be prepared to lose plenty of tackle, 
 for the under-tow is very strong, the bottom rough, and 
 the fish sometimes monsters. 
 
 In fine clear weather, when the sea is calm, trimmer- 
 fishing afforded me much pleasure. I would set six or 
 eight of these in a row to drift with the current, and 
 watch them from my boat ; nor would they be long left 
 alone. Presently one would dip two or three times, then 
 go down altogether. Hereupon, laying heartily to the 
 oars, we would start in pursuit. Up again would come 
 the cork, to go down and reappear in quite a different 
 direction. To and fro we would then pursue, till a chance 
 was afforded of using the gaff. 
 
 In the holes among the rocks eels were plentiful, and 
 many an hour I spent in their capture. To be successful, 
 patience rather than skill is requisite. The method is in 
 this wise. A piece of strong cord, about eight or nine feet 
 long, attached to a hook tied on gimp, baited with fish, is 
 dropped into the crevices. In a few minutes, if there are 
 any occupants, you feel a bite. Don't be in a hurry ; wait 
 
Rambles in Spain. 49 
 
 patiently, for, like a snake swallowing his food, an eel 
 requires plenty of time. However, when you strike, do it 
 sharply. But although we will suppose that you have 
 now got your fish on, time will elapse before you can call 
 him yours, for eels will double round stones and squeeze 
 themselves into all kinds of inaccessible places, from 
 which they can only be coaxed by keeping a heavy, steady 
 strain. The larger the fish, as may be expected, the 
 longer wiU be the contest; and not unusual will be the 
 loss of tackle, for congers have great aptitude for freeing 
 themselves with their teeth. 
 
 Babbits, porcupines, and red-legged partridge abound 
 on the upper portions of the rock, but they are strictly 
 protected; and rightly so, for they are great ornaments 
 to so circumscribed a space. Apes are also to be found 
 here, but, although tolerably numerous, are not often seen. 
 In fact, many believe their existence is a myth. However, 
 two or three times I had the luck to come across them. On 
 one occasion I was returning at break of day from visiting 
 the sentries and guards, furnished by the detachment at 
 Catalin Bay, of which post I was then in command. The 
 night had been stormy and cold, with a westerly wind. 
 The apes, which were about twenty in number, had 
 doubtlessly come to the east side for shelter. Before the 
 creatures saw me, I was within forty or fifty yards. 
 Their surprise at my intrusion, and their awkward attempt 
 at escape as they shuffled off, were very amusing. 
 
 Beside the officers' quarters at Catalin Bay there was 
 a large mulberry-tree. The ' fruit, when ripe, used to 
 disappear iu the most marvellous manner. Thinking some 
 of the men were the depredators, I lay -perdu one bright 
 
 D 
 
50 Advenhires in many Lands. 
 
 night, with a poodle remarkable for his sagacity for my 
 companion. At length the dog became fidgety, and rushed 
 off, giving tongue. I followed, fortunately for the poodle, 
 for there were at least a dozen apes, who appeared in 
 no way intimidated, till I approached. Doubtless these 
 were the scamps which had deprived me of my fruit. 
 
 There are some pretty rides within access of Gibraltar. 
 One that I frequently took and always enjoyed was to 
 Los Varies. This village is beautifully situated in a 
 wooded valley, surrounded by grand hills, picturesque 
 and bold in their outline. At the venta, where we were 
 in the habit of putting up our horses and having lunch, 
 there was a true type of the Andalusian belle. She was 
 the daughter of the host, and sometimes waited upon us. 
 A more beautiful or graceful girl I have seldom seen. 
 Once I met her at a buU-fight at Algesiras. Of course 
 she was en grande tenue on such an occasion. Never did 
 mantilla fall over more splendidly rounded shoulders — 
 never did slipper cover a more beautiful foot and ankle. 
 She did not walk — she glided over the surface of the 
 ground, as a denizen of another world might be imagined 
 to do. 
 
 Near Los Varies is a wild, picturesque waterfall, 
 embedded deeply in trees and rocks. On the warmest 
 days in summer, sHade from the sun can always be found 
 here ; in the pool beneath, a most delightful bath can be 
 enjoyed. This scene has often vividly recalled to me some 
 of our Scotch linns. 
 
 But I must say no more of dear old Gibraltar. How 
 many know it, and doubtless remember the hours passed 
 there with as much pleasure as I do ! 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 BAKBA.EY FIELD SPORTS. 
 
 LONG have I gazed from Gibraltar across the Straits 
 at the towering ranges of the irregular-outlined 
 Atlas Mountains, that form the northern breastwork of 
 Africa. This continent had long possessed for me the 
 greatest attractions, and with what anxiety did I look 
 forward to the moment when I could set foot upon its 
 shores; for is it not the hunting-ground par excelleince 
 of all the world ? Is it not the scene where CornwaUis 
 Harris, Gordon Gumming, Galton, Andersson, Baldwin, 
 and the lion-hearted Livingstone played their adventurous 
 parts ? True, the portion next Europe was far away from 
 where their exploits took place ; but still all was a part of 
 the same land, undivided by impassable sea or other 
 impediment that might prevent the migrating hordes of 
 gnus, antelopes, and zebras from ranging from one part 
 to another if so disposed. Such feelings have actuated me 
 in Scotland when wandering in boyhood in the fields in the 
 neighbourhood of my school. The hare which sprang from 
 
•"52 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 its seat one moment, I hoped to see succeeded by a giant 
 red deer, decorated with a royal head of horns, although 
 none such were known to have their habitat nearer than 
 the rocky corries of the Grampian Mountains. 
 
 But Morocco stiU possesses the lion, to all minds the 
 grandest and noblest of aU the brute creation. Not 
 impossibly, in some of the dark shady lines caused by 
 wooded ravines that marked the sides of the Atlas range, 
 a royal savage, at the very moment I was gazing across, 
 was either engaged in stalking upon his prey, or making a 
 meal on some unfortunate weaker animal. 
 
 Alas, for the days of youth and romance, of happiness 
 and love ! Value them while they last, young gentlemen ; 
 the storm-clouds that shut out the sunlight come sooner or 
 later. And may I add, that, just in the measure as you 
 spend your early years virtuously and self-denyingly, in 
 that proportion will be the happiness of your after-life. 
 
 At length an opportunity occurred. The longed-for 
 pleasure was to be realised. Leave of absence was obtained, 
 and I crossed to Morocco, landing at the seaport of 
 Tangiers, which is situated upon a bay of the same name, 
 of the area of about twenty square mUes. The position of 
 the town is picturesque in the extreme, and consists of 
 streets built in terraces, the whole overlooked by a castle 
 of most antiquated appearance, and flanked on either side 
 by loop-holed masonry, that would not stand a modern 
 bombardment five minutes. Yet this spot was once 
 considered strong, and long protected under its guns a 
 fleet of corsairs, who for years made navigation in the 
 vicinity dangerous, for falling into the hands of these 
 marine freebooters not only entailed spoliation, but 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 53 
 
 probably a life of captivity. It was from a southern 
 port of this nation that Eobinson Crusoe, we are told, 
 escaped from slavery with Xury. But the glory of 
 Morocco has fled; no ships sail under her colours, and 
 the "Christian dog," once such an object of contempt, 
 can now traverse the bazaars, sokes (market-places), and 
 mosques with perfect impunity. 
 
 The passage by steam across the Straits of Gibraltar is 
 only a matter of two or three hours. My landing was 
 effected with safety through a heavy surf, and the 
 custom-house of&cers (who were not above accepting 
 backsheesh) did not delay me unnecessarily. After climbing 
 through tumble-down streets, up extraordinary ascents of 
 stairs, almost as bad as Valetta, the capital of Malta, the 
 hotel was in due time reached, and a most comfortable as 
 well as economic establishment it proved. Only fancy 
 living for one dollar a-day, with table-wine included, and 
 that within a ten-pound journey from England, and an 
 excellent, free-to-all, unobstructed shooting-range within 
 a few miles, with neither gamekeepers nor servants to 
 "tip"! Why, to men of moderate means it appears too 
 good to be true ! 
 
 My plans were soon made through the means of an 
 interpreter. Two horses and an attendant were hired, and 
 lunch for the following day was ordered ; so that, when I 
 turned in to roost, nought remained but to have a good 
 night's rest to enable me to start the campaign in Northern 
 Africa under favourable circumstances. 
 
 Let me here give the reader a piece of advice, in 
 case he should be tempted to visit Tangiers for the purpose 
 of shooting. Be certain to bring your own saddlery; 
 
64 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 for however comfortably and well a Moor may ride witli 
 his knees up to his chin, I could not succeed in doing 
 likewise, although I had had years of practice in 
 horsemanship. When from compulsion I lengthened the 
 stirrups of this distressing invention, the amount of pelt 
 that I lost from chafing was anything hut conducive to 
 walking with pleasure after a pair of pointers, and I 
 believe my countrymen generally are constructed on pretty 
 much the same model as myself, and have learned to ride 
 after the same fashion. The horse of your attendant 
 should have, instead of a saddle, only a pad, over which is 
 slung a brace of panniers; in one of these your lunch 
 and game can be carried, in the other your dogs. It's all 
 very well to let a dog run ten miles from a shooting-ground 
 when his services are not required more than half-a-dozen 
 times in a season, but if you are going to use him daily or 
 even three times a-week, and you are a keen sportsman, 
 one that does not shirk walking, take my word for it, you 
 cannot husband the strength of your canine assistants too 
 much. It only requires thought to see that I am correct. 
 The man who wOl not think of his animals' comfort, does 
 not deserve to possess them. 
 
 Sunrise saw my corUge, in marching order, waiting at 
 the gates of Tangiers, ready to make an exit as soon as the 
 custodian of the keys thought proper to open the barriers 
 which cut the residents off from the surrounding country, 
 for every night the gates are closed at sunset. Take 
 warning, therefore, and do not be late, for, if you are, you 
 will have to remain outside. Passing into the country, we 
 find the ground is undulating and well planted, graveyards 
 and gardens being the principal features. A couple of 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 55 
 
 miles' transit through green lanes, hedged with aloes, 
 discloses an open rolling landscape with distant hills and 
 a meandering water-course, the former clothed, the latter 
 fringed with trees. In front, and to the right, as you 
 proceed onwards, are situated, on elevated bare ground, 
 three quaint square buildings, with a large dome on the 
 top of each. These, I was informed, are the tombs of 
 three celebrated Moorish warriors, who perished during the 
 wars that were undertaken about two centuries back to 
 drive the British from Tangiers, which was a portion of 
 the dower of one of our queens. In the gardens, woodcock, 
 snipe, and rabbits are occasionally abundant, but as the 
 owners of these fruitful enclosures have a strong objection 
 to trespassers, it is better to pass on and leave them 
 undisturbed. Five miles from town, going south-west, 
 after passing a large olive grove, which grows luxuriantly 
 at the base of a densely-wooded hill, still the haunt of 
 numerous wild boar, extends an immense meadow, through 
 which flows a sluggish stream. On this meadow I 
 commenced work. Snipe I found abundant, also plover. 
 Several wild duck I flushed from the rivulet, and was 
 fortunate enough to obtain a brace and a-half of the 
 broadbills. On leaving the damp land and ascending to 
 more dry localities, we observe that a variety of palmetto 
 does duty for underbrush. In this cover my dogs found 
 several coveys of red-legged partridge, which, contrary to 
 the nature of this species in England, lay remarkably well. 
 As might be expected, I thinned their ranks, and also 
 added to the weight of my now distended game-bag by the 
 addition of a brace of bouncing hares. 
 
 Having a strong objection to be turned into a pack- 
 
56 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 horse, and knowing that if I wished to shoot well I ought 
 to husband my strength, I handed over the results of my 
 labour to my attendant Moor. A mile or two farther on I 
 came to a considerable river, quite sixty yards wide, which 
 enters the sea through a broad belt of sand — close to the 
 grand old bluff headland, Cape Spartel. What between 
 shooting and th« allotted time for lunch and a smoke, the 
 day had fled rapidly, and although the sun was still two 
 hours' high, it behoved me to return, as the distance was 
 eight or . more miles, and I had made no preparations for 
 remaining from home. 
 
 On another occasion, in company with two brother 
 officers, I started in the morning, determined not to shoot 
 tin the river last mentioned was reached. On arrival 
 there, each of us took a stand among the brush that grew 
 on the margin. Our Moorish attendants we despatched 
 ■with instructions to move up and down the stream and 
 alarm all ducks they saw, well knowing the habit of these 
 birds to foUow as far as possible the water-courses on 
 ■which they feed. In less than an hour we had over a 
 dozen shots. After "tiffin," we beat the neighbouring 
 open land and brush for red-legged partridge, and fortune 
 smiled upon our labours. So at night, when we betook 
 ourselves to the Arab douar where we had arranged to 
 sleep, we produced quite a formidable array of game. 
 
 But can I ever forget that night ? I think not. After 
 indulging in a most hearty meal — huskasoo, a most 
 wholesome and pleasant native dish, forming no 
 inconsiderable portion of it — and having imbibed a 
 " nightcap," wearied with our day's exercise, all turned in, 
 with the confidence of obtaining a good night's rest. 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 5Y 
 
 Never was Somnus so devotedly courted as by your 
 humble servant; still sleep I could not; restlessly I 
 tossed about. I was perfectly ignorant of the cause of 
 this inquietude, and, not wishing to disturb my comrades, 
 for a long period submitted to martyrdom. At length 
 flesh and blood could stand it no longer ; up I jumped and 
 sprang for the matchbox. Even the necessary time for 
 the lucifer to become thoroughly ignited was thought a 
 needless delay. But I found I was not the only one 
 awake; both my friends were sitting up, and inquired, 
 almost in the same words, and at the same moment, if I 
 also felt queer and unable to sleep, for, turn which way 
 they would, twist themselves in whatever shape they 
 chose, slimiber they could not. 
 
 But what was the cause of this ? Fleas in hundreds, 
 fleas in thousands, fleas in millions. Inside our clothes, 
 outside our clothes, their phalanxes were equally 
 numerous. Before the lights had been put out, not one 
 had been seen; with darkness they had stolen upon us, 
 and that with an appetite that appeared insatiable. 
 
 With one consent we all undressed, shook our garments, 
 brushed them, and re-donned them, tying our various 
 garments so tight as almost to cause strangulation, and 
 impede the circulation of the blood. But this strategy 
 was unavailing, the pests would not be denied, so all 
 determined to make a night of it. Outside the jackals 
 howled; inside we puffed our pipes, and occasionally 
 moistened our damp throats, till, with pleasure, but in a 
 very unfit state for shooting, we welcomed the entrance of 
 our guide about an hour before daybreak. 
 
 After a hasty meal we all mounted, riding double, and 
 
58 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 started for a place known by the name of the Laguna, 
 where we were informed wild duck were abundant. As 
 we slowly went onward through the darkness, the ground 
 on every side was sprinkled with glowworms, and an 
 occasional jackal would howl a welcome of defiance. Ere 
 the sun had risen we reached our shooting-ground; the 
 water in the middle of the lagoon, which was free from 
 weeds, was covered with numerous varieties of aquatic 
 fowls. In the reeds along the margin they were almost as 
 abundant, and for a couple of hours a heavy and successful 
 fusilade was kept up. At length the birds became 
 alarmed and more wary, and further work was desisted 
 from. 
 
 While we were at breakfast, one of our attendants took 
 his gun, and soon returned with a number of duck and 
 coots. "When accompanjdng the same man in the 
 afternoon, I found out the cause of his success. Dropping 
 off his bournouse, the only garment which prevented biTn 
 from being clothed like Adam, he waded into the weeds 
 till nought but head and shoulders were visible. In this 
 manner, with a green bough held before him for a screen, 
 he advanced within easy range of the unsuspicious game. 
 
 On the margin of this swamp were abundant indications 
 that it was a favourite haunt of wUd boar. The marks of 
 their waUowings were everywhere discernible, and some of 
 the foot-prints clearly told that they had been made by 
 giant veterans. Observing one of my dogs to be most 
 uncomfortable, and bleeding about the muzzle, on 
 examination I found that a leech had fastened in the 
 interior of his mouth, close to the root of his ton<nie. 
 Leeches are here very abundant, and it is no unusual 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 59 
 
 occurrence for both horses and dogs to suffer from their 
 attentions. 
 
 With a heavy load of game we returned to Tangiers by 
 a different route from that by which we had come. One 
 portion of the road was very pretty, being covered with 
 dwarf timber, among which (much improving and 
 imparting an Eastern tone to the picture) were feeding a 
 large drove of camels and their young. Thoroughly 
 fatigued, we reached the gates of the city just in time 
 to gain admission. 
 
 While in this portion of Northern Africa I had several 
 days' hog-shooting. The haunts of these animals during 
 the day are the rough sides of hUls, in ravines and 
 nullahs, where the brush is dense, consequently there is 
 seldom a possibility of riding to them, and the use of the 
 gun instead of the spear becomes admissible. - Hardly any 
 animal is gifted with more vitality, and will carry off more 
 lead. I remember a veteran boar running the gaunfeet of 
 four double guns within easy range; each shot told, yet 
 the hero went off, as if nothing had occurred. That 
 evening, however, he was found dead two miles from 
 where he received his death-wounds. At night these 
 animals quit their lairs, and descend to the low grounds 
 to wallow and feed on the fruits in the gardens and crops 
 in the enclosures of the natives. Owing to their being so 
 thoroughly nocturnal in their habits they are seldom seen, 
 but the results of their forays are to be met with in every 
 direction. 
 
 The general mode of shooting them is to drive the 
 covers with beaters while the sportsmen stand on the runs, 
 which are usually dry water-courses. As the cover is 
 
60 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 very dense, the gun should be kept at full cock, for a 
 momentary clatter among the stones is all the warning 
 received, and if your fire is not rapidly delivered, the 
 brute is through between your legs (very possibly 
 knocking you over) and out of sight in a moment. There 
 is little or no danger on such occasions; but when the 
 boar is wounded and brought to bay, look out for squalls 
 if you approach him. 
 
 To the westward of Tangiers many of the consuls have 
 fine gardens situated close to the sea. The rocks beneath 
 are particularly grand, lofty, and rugged in their outline. 
 Among these cliffs are numerous caves haunted by large 
 flocks of rock-pigeons. As these birds return from their 
 feeding-grounds just before sunset, good sport can be 
 obtained at them. However, there is one objection to this 
 pastime : you will find it impossible to recover nearly half 
 the pigeons killed. 
 
 Nowhere have I seen the eagles more numerous than 
 along this coast during the spring and autumn of the year. 
 At these periods they are doubtlessly migrating to and 
 from Europe. Hawks of nearly every variety are also 
 abundant, even those of the most choice breeds. 
 
 Although I was not successful in shooting any specimens 
 of the bustard proper {Otis tarda), during some parts of the 
 year they are to be found in this neighbourhood in 
 considerable numbers, increasing in abundance, I was 
 informed, as you proceeded inland. The little bustard 
 (0. tetrax) is, however, plentiful, and I had the pleasure of 
 bagging many; its flight much resembles that of the 
 curlew, and though perhaps deserving the appellation of a 
 wary bird, with strategy it can be obtained. The best 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 61 
 
 method, I- found, was to -walk outside my horse, describing 
 gradually-diminishing circles till within range. On the 
 table the little bustard will be found most palatable ; it is 
 worth more trouble in killing than is usually accorded to 
 game of greater magnitude. Storks are also numerous, 
 but do not come under the sportman's category of game ; I 
 will therefore say nothing further of them. 
 
 In the lower ranges of the Atlas, fallow deer are found 
 in considerable numbers ; in the upper ranges, a mammoth 
 stag is often to be seen — at least, so I have been informed 
 on trustworthy authority. 
 
 Not much is known of the distant interior, particularly 
 towards the east coast, which is inhabited by the Eeefians, 
 a race of freebooters and pirates. It is a well-ascertained 
 fact, however, that the lion is still to be found there. 
 Fourteen or fifteen miles from Tangiers I was shown 
 where the last lion known in that vicinity was killed. 
 The spot was just suited for such an episode — an immense 
 rock standing like an island among shrubs, with an open 
 country, covered with herds of goats and sheep, stretching 
 beyond. 
 
 I wish my young friends could hear the story of 
 that lion's death narrated as it was told to me, surrounded 
 as I was by a dusky crowd of stalwart manly figures, all 
 dressed in bournouses, and leaning with pride, doubtless 
 arising from conscious skill, upon their long single-barrelled 
 guns. I like the Mussulman— it matters not whether he 
 be Turk or Moor; there is a manliness and soldierly 
 bearing about him, and at the same time a gentleness, that 
 I have never found in others ; but to the story. 
 
 "For many years our douars had been left in peace. 
 
62 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 our herds wandered far and wide without shepherds, for 
 no protection was necessary. The wild beast had learned 
 to dread the prowess of our young men, and had departed 
 to a country where these were less brave, so no longer 
 did our plains reverberate at night with the lion's roar — 
 no longer did the lover dread to visit by night the village 
 of his future bride, or the hunter fear to secrete himself 
 to watch the grizzly boar that nightly desolated his melons. 
 
 " But a change took place. The mare of the father of 
 Abdoul (pointing out one of the crowd) was missed; a 
 suspicion of her being stolen came over the minds of aU, 
 for she was known far and wide as the gentlest, fleetest, 
 most enduring, and best bred possessed by the tribe. For 
 some days most diligent search was made imsuccessfully, 
 and hope had almost died out of ever hearing of her again, 
 when she was discovered dead, fearfully mangled, among 
 the woods that gird the slope of those hUls. 
 
 "All skilled in the chase visited the spot, and the 
 most experienced were convinced, from various indications, 
 that the poor mare was the unfortunate victim of a beast of 
 prey 
 
 " The owner vowed by the Prophet to be revenged, 
 and many promised him their assistance. 
 
 "The neighbourhood had almost relapsed into its 
 habitual quiet, and the death of the mare had almost 
 been forgotten, when the douar was alarmed at midday 
 by the hurried entrance of some lads, who had seen a 
 lion puU down a steer. 
 
 " All for some moments was commotion, but an unusual 
 desire became paramount to avenge the insult, and, if 
 possible, rid themselves of so dangerous a visitor. 
 
Barbary Field Sports. 
 
 63 
 
 "With arms and dogs a large force mustered. On 
 reaching the scene of bloodshed the cowardly marauder 
 fled; he refused to face our bullets. But we followed, 
 and here, on this very rock, he turned to defy us, his 
 rage being thoroughly roused by our persevering pursuit ; 
 and as he stood above, his noble form defined against 
 the clear sky, lashing his flanks with his tail, and scorning 
 the cowardly curs that yelped around, he looked every 
 inch a king. 
 
 " But, with the help of Allah, he fell at the first fire, 
 and his rich black mane long decorated the house of 
 our chief. He was the last in this plain ; may he never 
 have a successor !" * 
 
 Hoping to save time I returned to Gibraltar on board 
 a felucca, a mistake I never again would be guilty of; 
 for, a gale of wind springing up an hour or two after 
 departure, we were kept two days knocking about the 
 Strait, with a most disagreeable sea running, and no place 
 to obtain shelter from the elements but a hole of a cabin, 
 redolent of oil and garlic. Cadiz or Tarifa might several 
 times have been made, but the craft and crew belonged 
 to Gibraltar, and very possibly were known to the Spanish 
 Guarda Costa, for former smuggling peccadilloes. 
 
 All tilings come to an end, and never was I more 
 grateful than when I stretched my legs upon the mole 
 of dear old Gib. 
 
 * My late experience in the centre of tropical South Africa has made 
 me well aware what a scourge a troop of lions can be to a neighbourhood. 
 
CHAPTEE VI. 
 
 AFLOAT IN THE MEDITEEKANEAN, AKD ASHOEE IN 
 NOKTH AFRICA. 
 
 THE sail along the north-coast of Africa, from Gibraltar, 
 particularly if you hug the land and are vouchsafed 
 good weather, is delightful. Many times I have made this 
 trip, but my first experience was by far the most pleasant, 
 for the sea was smooth as a mill-pond all the way, and the 
 vessel was navigated as close to the shore as was 
 compatible with safety. An awning being spread over the 
 quarter-deck, I never quitted it day or night. The blue 
 waters of the Mediterranean appeared transcendently 
 beautiful and deep in colouring, whether by sun or 
 moonlight; and the Atlas range of mountains, ever 
 varying, ever grand, were constantly in sight. How I 
 longed to land, and penetrate, in search of game or 
 adventure, into the deep chasms and spreading valleys 
 which were constantly exposed to sight. Little did I then 
 think of the hardships that were in store for me when 
 exploring the South Tropical part of this Continent. 
 After passing Algiers and its white houses, built tier 
 
Afloat in the Mediterranean. 65 
 
 over tier, the coast became less rugged and more green, 
 and the promise of shooting more inviting. ISTear Cape 
 Bona, perhaps a hundred miles to the westward of it, to 
 my great satisfaction, the Captain (late Captain of the 13th 
 Light Infantry, commanding his own vessel. Army and 
 Navy), on his coming on deck in the morning, informed 
 me that, being short of fuel, he intended anchoring to 
 collect drift-wood. Soon after, a favourable place was 
 found, and never did I listen to cable going through 
 hawsehole with greater pleasure. The bay into which our 
 craft had run was almost land-locked, the hiUs that 
 surrounded it were green as those of the Emerald Isle, and 
 on the beach were assembled a swarthy crowd of Moors, 
 anxiously scrutinising our movements, and all garbed in 
 their favourite bournouse. Wot one among us spoke their 
 language; our intercourse was consequently conducted by 
 signals, yet they understood us, and fresh provisions in 
 abundance were brought for our use. While the ship's 
 company were busy, I wandered off with my double-barrel. 
 Eed-legged partridge and quail I found abundant, but, not 
 having a dog, I lost among the brush half the birds I 
 killed. Here I saw several wild boar, but could not 
 succeed in obtaining a shot at them. With a properly 
 organised corps of beaters very different results might be 
 obtained. On ascending a rocky acclivity, I came across 
 a host of apes. The rascals looked at me in a most 
 threatening manner, as if disposed to dispute my right to 
 further progress. One old gentleman was particularly 
 demonstrative, and at length I determined to give him 
 the contents of a barrel. Not over twenty-five yards 
 severed us, and he received a mortal wound ; but never in 
 
66 Advenhires in many Lands. 
 
 my life did I regret so much firing a shot, the agony and 
 death-struggle of the poor ape were so human, that I 
 turned from the spot and my victim with feelings 
 anything but enviable. From that day to this I have not 
 shot one of that genus, nor do I believe I could be tempted 
 to do so. 
 
 Here I had my first experience of turtle-catching. The 
 process is simple, yet, to become an adept, considerable 
 practice is required. In the warm weather, particularly 
 at midday, they float on the surface, enjoying the heat of 
 the sun, and apparently asleep. You approach them in a 
 boat, the crew ceasing to pull when sufficient headway 
 has been obtained to bring you alongside of your intended 
 victim, while in the bow is posted a man whose duty 
 is to make the capture. If the turtle is a small one, it is 
 seized by the back flipper and hauled on board. If it 
 is a large fellow, the seizer, by a quick turn of his wrist 
 after laying hold of the flipper, places the victim on its 
 back, and, if necessary, obtains assistance to remove it 
 from its watery home. The turtle of the Mediterranean, 
 although good eating, are not to be compared with those of 
 the West Indies or Malay Archipelago. The harpoon 
 is also used to take them, but this is considered by experts 
 as a slovenly weapon, and only excusable when all other 
 means fail. 
 
 Although we remained a couple of days, the wooding 
 business turned out a failure, so under a half-head of 
 steam we proceeded, and in due course of time, after 
 running close by Pantaleria, an island where Sardinian 
 convicts are imprisoned — it is far too lovely for such 
 a purpose — we reached Malta. 
 
Afloat in the Mediterranean. 67 
 
 While in this part of the Mediterranean, a rather 
 remarkable instance of canine vindictiveness or revenge 
 took place. Several of my companions had dogs on 
 board. One was a French poodle, whose antics and 
 tricks made her the pet of all; another was a retriever, 
 equally well educated ; while a Skye-terrier was the third. 
 
 The attentions of the two latter to the lady poodle 
 were very marked, and at length the demon of jealousy 
 being aroused, sundry passages of teeth took place, the 
 retriever, from his superior size, always worsting the 
 terrier. At length, one day, the larger dog seized the 
 smaller, carried him to the gangway, and dropped him 
 overboard. Several people saw this take place, but were 
 unable to' interfere from the rapidity with which the 
 whole deed was transacted. The excitement on deck 
 brought me from the cabin, when I beheld the poor little 
 terrier swimming in the wake of the vessel. As there 
 was a stiff breeze at the time, the Captain was unwiUing 
 to lower a boat, and the terrier was consequently lost, 
 very much to the grief of his owner. 
 
 In the autumn and spring of the year, immense hordes 
 of porpoises and tunny-fish pass and re-pass along the 
 coast of Morocco and Algeria. By day and night they 
 can be distinctly seen, rolling and plunging under the 
 waist or stern of the vessel. From the dolphin-striker 
 which projects iinder the bowsprit, if you are able to 
 hang on by the skin of your eyebrows — for the footing is 
 limited — good sport can be obtained with the harpoon. 
 But the moment you strike, and the victim becomes 
 impaled, it must be dragged from the water without delay, 
 or it will be certain to escape. 
 
68 
 
 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 Close to Cape Bona, as the vessel skirted a headland, 
 I perceived two bottle-nosed porpoises coming towards 
 us. I went forward to the bow where my harpoon and 
 line lay prepared, and three or four of the watch who 
 were lounging on the forecastle laid hold of the slack, and 
 waited for the blow to be delivered. Soon the game was 
 within reach ; over and over they rolled, almost permitting 
 the cutwater to bump them. At length a chance was 
 offered, and I drove the steel home. "Haul!" I shouted 
 to my assistants, and haul they did. But the foe was too 
 heavy: all their straining and efforts could not get the 
 brute from the water. Long was the struggle, and alas ! 
 the rope broke, when Mr. Porpoise departed at express 
 speed, taking, as a momento of his escape, my good and 
 well-tried harpoon. 
 
 From Cape Bona to Pantaleria is only a few hours' 
 journey, whilst from the latter to Gozo is about the same 
 distance. When this portion of the voyage is performed 
 during the migration of quails, immense numbers will fly 
 on board, even in sufficient quantities to feed a ship's 
 company. When I was on board the old Government 
 troop-ship. Urgent, close to Pantaleria, a sudden change of 
 wind brought up a disagreeable ground-swell, and the old 
 vessel pitched about in the lumbering manner pecidiarly 
 her own. Quail had been seen during the early part 
 of the day, but they had passed onwards disregarding us. 
 The change of wind caused them now to act differently, for 
 the new breeze was an adverse one, and the little travelling 
 strangers were glad to rest their wearied wings upon our 
 decks. Poor little creatures, so fatigued were they, that 
 without an effort they permitted themselves to be taken. 
 
Afloat in the Mediterranean. 69 
 
 Although I consider Valetta the prettiest city with 
 which I am acquainted, and one of the very pleasantest 
 places to pass a month or two of winter in, it is without 
 exception, as far as field sports go, the worst station it has 
 been my lot to visit. True, at certain times a few migratory 
 birds can be kiUed, but success is so uncertain that one 
 ian never be sure of obtaining sport. 
 
 For yachting and boating Malta is eminently suited. 
 At the same time, it must not be imagined that it never 
 blows there — ay, it does blow ; and the oldest veteran must 
 acknowledge that there are pleasanter positions than being 
 caught in a gregale. However, these winds do not last, 
 though they are proportionably violent to the shortness 
 of their existence. One January afternoon I left Malta 
 on board a small vessel. The wind was fair, and, with all 
 the canvas we could set, merrily and swiftly we increased - 
 the distance between ourselves and land. When the sun 
 set, the sky foretold no indication of change; still, at 
 midnight we were lying-to under a close-reefed mainsail, 
 with a wild and broken sea every few minutes making 
 a breach over us. In four hours the squall had subsided, 
 and day broke clear and tranquil, while the coast of SicUy, 
 smiling in its semi-sterility, yet dotted with white 
 cottages, lay close to windward. But during that squall 
 we lost a hand overboard, a fair-haired boy, from fourteen 
 to fifteen years old, the favourite of all. Poor lad ! with 
 others of his watch he was sent to stow the jib, the craft 
 pitched heavily into an unusually large sea, and he was 
 hurried prematurely into a sailor's grave. Alas ! such is 
 life; while in the possession of most robust health, how 
 often are we close to the destroyer ! 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 AN INDIAN HUNTING ENCAMPMENT, 
 
 Lbt others toast and proudly toast 
 
 The light of ladies' eyes, 
 And swear the rose less perfume throws 
 
 Than beauty's fragrant sighs ; 
 The ripe, red lips in hue eclipse 
 
 The ruby's radiant gem, 
 That woman's far the brightest star 
 
 In Nature's diadem. 
 Yet since, for me, no charms I see 
 
 In all the sex can show. 
 And smile and tear alike appear, 
 
 And heedless flash or flow, 
 I'll change my theme, and fondly deem- 
 
 Tfue sportsmen pledge me here. 
 And fill my cup, and drain it up. 
 
 To saddle, spur, and spear. 
 
 But while I sing, Time's rapid wing 
 
 This lesson seems to teach — 
 The joy and bliss of sport like this 
 
 Are still within our reach. 
 Then let's away at break of day. 
 
 Ride vale and hill-top o'er. 
 Scale mountain's side, or stem the tide. 
 
 To spear the flying boar. 
 
An Indian Huniing Encampment. 71 
 
 And Time may then bring love again, 
 
 "When we at pleasure's shrine, 
 To check his flight for one gay height 
 
 Will wet his wing with wine ; 
 And, ere we part, pledge hand and heart 
 
 Once more to rally there, 
 To fill the cup, and drain it up. 
 
 To saddle, spur, and spear. 
 
 Indian Hunting Song. 
 
 QUITE three years must be jumped over between 
 the events that I am about to tell of and those of 
 a previous chapter. During that time, I knocked about 
 in different portions of the globe, principally on active 
 service, and, consequently, fully engaged with business 
 which almost excluded me from field sports. 
 
 With what pleasure, on obtaining leave of absence, did 
 I look forward to the holidays, when again my gun 
 would become my companion, more especially as India 
 was to be the scene ! The start at length was made. The 
 sun shone bright and strong, but ere the journey to 
 my intended shooting-ground had been accomplished, a 
 break took place in the weather, which almost induced 
 me to abandon the expedition. 
 
 With my mind vacillating between doubt and hope, I 
 slowly made my way through the pitiless, pelting storm, 
 hoping ere night to come across some native village, 
 from whence I could obtain the information that would 
 lead me to our encampment. The ardour of the chase 
 had led me to go thoughtlessly forward, neglecting to take 
 notice of the landmarks, and when at last I became 
 thrown out by the boar taking shelter in a thick cover 
 that edged an extensive ravine, I desired to return. 
 
72 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 N'orth, south, east, and west, all appeared the same, 
 and I had not the slightest idea in what direction to 
 urge my horse. Worse than all, my situation was rendered 
 doubly miserable by the coming on of one of those pelting 
 tropical showers that so frequently take place at the 
 change of the monsoon, beating the poor verdure with 
 such terrible force that it is only a wonder that each 
 leaf and blade of grass can resist being forced into the 
 bowels of the earth. My poor horse Hamet, who, in 
 the morning, had been all life, fire, and courage, was now 
 fatigued and crestfallen, and had I not occasionally 
 touched his snow-white flanks with my sharp persuaders, 
 and shaken him up with the bit, he would doubtless have 
 fallen. I managed, however, to keep moving, each flash 
 of lightning causing my steed to start with fear, so 
 near to us approached the electric fluid. At length the 
 torrent of rain began to slacken, and I was looking forward 
 to the far from enviable position, "a night's bivouac in a 
 strange neighbourhood," abounding with beasts of prey, 
 when my eyes were gladdened and my spirits restored 
 by a sight of three white tents snugly nestling under the 
 shade of a grove of banians, with several horses picketed at 
 regular intervals. I was well aware that countrymen only 
 could be their occupants, and without hesitation determined, 
 according to the hospitable habits of the East, to demand 
 both shelter and food for man and beast. No sooner 
 thought than done. I directed my course to the largest 
 tent, and, dismounting from my nag and slipping the 
 snaffle-rein over my arm, I called for a horse-cooUe, when, 
 who should pop out his head through the fly-door but my 
 jolly, good-tempered friend Steer ! I had not seen him for 
 
An Indian Hunting Encampment. 73 
 
 more titan two years, and on that occasion we parted 
 in Paris, little expecting that the next time we met 
 would be under an Indian sky. For some time neither 
 spoke, so great was our mutual astonishment, but as soon 
 as he had recovered his powers of utterance, he welcomed 
 me, and would hear of nothing else than a promise from 
 me to remain and join their party for the few remaining 
 days of their hunt. After a due amount of hallooing, a 
 syce (native groom) put in his appearance, to whose care 
 my gallant steed was entrusted, with a caution that if a 
 soil or mark of the day's travel should be found on him 
 on the morrow, the groom's dusky hide should be tanned 
 into leather, and his life be considerably jeopardised. 
 Inside I was introduced to Barker and M'Carthy, both of 
 whom I had frequently heard of as the hardest riding and 
 most indefatigable sportsmen in the Presidency. Soon I 
 effected a change of raiment; one supplying me with 
 unmentionables, another with a coat, and so on, each 
 vying with the other who could do the most for the 
 unexpected visitor. " Whence have you come ?" " Where 
 are you going?" "How did you come here?" "Have a 
 smoke ?" &c., &c., &c., were showered upon me as quick as 
 each could talk, giving me not a chance to slip in a word 
 even edgeways. As a final chance, and running a risk 
 of being deemed rude, I called them to order, and obtained 
 an opportunity to explain myself Steer, with his usual 
 consideration, called to the boy who had charge of the 
 commissariat department to supply me with a stiff glass 
 of brandy-pawnee and a cheroot, having a most astute 
 knowledge of what would be beneficial and enjoyable after 
 my ducking. Soon my yarn was spun, and a courier was 
 
74 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 despatched to inform my comrades of my safety, with 
 a request that they ■would strike camp and hurry up and 
 join us. The rain now had 'entirely ceased, and, as we sat 
 down to dinner al fresco, all nature being invigorated, 
 the green of the foliage was doubly brilliant, and each 
 tree appeared to contain a perfect choir of songsters. 
 What a jovial meal we had — game in profusion, potted 
 meats, pickled lobster, and as fine a mango-curry and 
 mullagatawny soup as ever graced the board of a 
 Governor-General! Then the fruits and wines — Madeira 
 that had twice doubled the Cape, luxurious port and 
 claret almost as old as ourselves, and brandy not a whit 
 younger, with an inexhaustible store of incomparable 
 soda-water. The conversation turned on absorbing subjects 
 — the horse, hound, spear, and rifle. My hosts had been 
 out for some weeks, but their desire for sport had not 
 yet flagged, although they had killed an immense quantity 
 and variety of game. The following day had been set 
 aside by them for the destruction of an enormous boar, 
 who for months had roamed the neighbourhood, making 
 sad havoc among the natives' sugar-cane — a terror to all, 
 and, not unlike Alexander Selkirk, monarch of all he 
 surveyed, but with a great dislike to society, which he, 
 without reluctance, showed to any unfortunate darkev 
 whom chance threw in his way. Over and over again our 
 glasses were filled, deeds of prowess were recounted, and 
 as the generous wine began more freely to circulate, loose 
 reins were given to both our tongues and imaginations, 
 and I have little doubt, if an outsider could have heard our 
 conversation, he would have put us all down for the veriest 
 set of braggarts that ever stretched their limbs under 
 
An Indian Hunting Encampment. 75 
 
 mahogany. At length wine was discarded as too washy, 
 and the more potent and ever popular brandy-and-soda 
 circulated in place. The programme of to-morrow was not 
 forgotten, and if we could have been taken at our word, no 
 knight of old or gallant crusader could have performed 
 greater or more perilous deeds than the happy quartet 
 there assembled. To bed we no doubt got, but how ? is the 
 question; neverthless we found ourselves with throbbing 
 heads and feverish pulses awake at break of day, very 
 desirous of a dash of brandy in our coffee, or, still better, a 
 goodly draught of hock and seltzer-water. It has been 
 frequently and well stated that there is no rest for the 
 wicked, and doubtless we were classed in that category, 
 for our attendants persisted in reminding us that our 
 horses were saddled and the beaters and shikarees waiting. 
 I had already exhausted my entire stock of ammunition, 
 in the shape of bootjacks, boots, &c., that lay within reach, 
 by throwing them at the intruders' heads, when I found 
 that the incessant disturbance had driven the fickle 
 Somnus from my embrace. To be up and doing was 
 certainly better than restlessly kicking about under 
 bedclothes; so I summoned my exhausted energy to the 
 rescue and sprang from my couch. Little time was 
 lost in donning my habiliments and gaining the open air. 
 Two of my friends I found on the ground; the third 
 could not be drawn although several attempts were made, 
 for he became pugnacious; so we determined to leave 
 him behind, well knowing that an idle day in camp, 
 with no associates and nothing to amuse him, would be 
 a sufficient punishment. 
 
 On inspecting Hamet, I found that he had scarcely 
 
76 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 recovered from his previous day's fatigue, and as he was 
 entered for several races at the cantonments, and I had 
 backed him for a considerable amount, I determined 
 not to go. M'Carthy, however, with the characteristic 
 kindness of his countrymen, insisted that I should ride 
 a horse of his, a young Australian thorough-bred, of great 
 speed and beauty, that he had lately imported. 
 
 Without loss of time, Goldfinder was led up, and all 
 his owner said in his praise was but justice. The silky 
 short coat, fine thin mane and tail, deep girth and broad 
 chest, enormous hind-quarters, immensely muscular arms, 
 and small, flat legs, spoke doubtless of a pedigree without 
 blot or stain. However, as I glanced at his fascinating 
 shape, I could not help noticing, as the saddle was placed 
 on his back, a peculiar twinkle about his eyes, which 
 practice and experience informed me denoted rather a 
 queer temper. M'Carthy observed my stare, and coolly 
 remarked, with the utmost sang froid, "He's a trifle 
 difficult to sit at first ; but it 's all over in a minute." The 
 said M'Carthy had hunted in his youth with the Blazers,* 
 and considered anything rideable that could carry a 
 saddle. Consequently, he never had anything but vixens 
 in his stable, for whenever he heard of a nag who had 
 nearly or entirely killed his rider, or whom nobody could 
 handle, and whom the happy possessor would sell for a 
 song to be rid of, M'Carthy came to the front and 
 purchased him at his own price. The result was that 
 he was better mounted, and that at a third of the money, 
 than any other officer in the Presidency. 
 
 * A celelDrated pack of foxhounds in Galway, whose supporters are 
 noted for their hard riding. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FIEST BLOOD. 
 
 NOW, as M'Carthy's ideas on this subject were just 
 mine, and as success had always gilded my efforts, I 
 did not hesitate to try the issue. Without trouble I 
 got up to the horse's withers, and with a vault put myself 
 in the saddle. The groom, either out of ignorance, or 
 thinking I was seated, let go his head before I could get 
 my feet in the irons, and a series of efforts was performed 
 by the vicious animal that required all the nerve and 
 pluck of which I was possessed to counteract. Of all 
 the manoeuvres that a wicked horse can practise, there 
 are none so troublesome as buck-jumping. For the 
 uninitiated, I will describe the operation. The horse hogs 
 his back, springs rapidly, repeatedly, and perpendicularly 
 into the air, lighting on all fours at the same moment, 
 and strange to say, the close tight seat, so much to be 
 recommended generally, is here unavailing. For the very 
 life of me I could not get my feet into the irons, and as I 
 had been nearly unhorsed several times, I determined to 
 
78 Adventures m many Lands. 
 
 become aggressor, and at least have the satisfaction of 
 drawing blood, even if I did get a spiU. My spurs were 
 Latchford's best, and tolerably severe, and as my nag rose 
 for a further essay, I sunk my toes and forced my heels 
 well under and into his flanks. With a snort of pain and 
 rage, he broke into a gallop, the very thing I desired, and 
 without respite I kept him at top speed for at least a 
 couple of miles. When I rejoined my confrlres, his 
 glossy bay coat was lathered with sweat, his flanks heaved 
 and nostrils stood expanded, but the viciousness had 
 disappeared, and a very child might now have handled 
 him. The effect of the excitement and the rapid passage 
 through the air was most beneficial to myself, for the 
 heated, feverish headache had disappeared, and I was 
 rejuvenated. While my humbled steed underwent a 
 scrape, I enjoyed an excellent cup of tea, which put me 
 thoroughly to rights. 
 
 Our beaters and shikarees, owing to the lengthened 
 delay, had become very impatient; so, to keep them in 
 good humour, we started without further delay. Barker 
 and M'Carthy had the reputation of being second to none 
 in this most exciting and often dangerous amusement, for 
 both, on several occasions, had carried the spear of honour 
 when with the Bengal Club — no small achievement among 
 such noted sportsmen. For myself, this was nearly a 
 maiden effort, and from my late arrival I was considered 
 by both a "griffin" — a favourite expression for a new 
 arrival, or, more correctly, a green hand. 
 
 The morning, as is frequent after rain, was all that 
 could be desired — cool, bracing, and invigorating — and 
 merrily we chatted as we rode along, over open savannah 
 
First Blood. 79 
 
 covered with brush, or rolling hill-sides clothed with 
 timber, every few steps flushing game, often brilliant in 
 their resplendent plumage. Three or four miles brought 
 us to the place where we intended to commence our beat. 
 As far as I could judge, the ground was most favourable ; 
 a long valley, level at the bottom, densely planted with 
 sugar-cane, with about a hundred yards of deep, thick 
 jungle on either side, running along its entire length, 
 which must have been quite a couple of miles. From the 
 upper edge of the valley, on both sides, the plain stretched 
 away for miles, uninterrupted by anything large enough 
 to deserve the appellation of a tree. In truth, after years 
 of experience, I have never met a place so admirably 
 adapted for our purpose as the Todah Valley. M'Carthy 
 soon gave the necessary instructions to the sable beaters, 
 ordering them to go to the top of the ravine, and, extended 
 at regular intervals like a company of skirmishers, beat it 
 from end to end. While waiting, to give them sufficient 
 time to reach the place where they were to commence, 
 a more picturesque sporting tableau could scarcely be 
 conceived. Captain M'Carthy — habited in a short fustian 
 jacket, the colour of which nearly approached to the faded 
 tints of withered herbage, his limbs encased in well-fitting, 
 white buckskin breeches and boots, looked a perfect 
 Apollo in form, though probably a little under medium 
 height, his handsome sunburnt features radiant with 
 expected excitement; a fine specimen of a handsome, 
 well-bred Irish gentleman — leant upon the neck of his 
 noble horse, a perfect type of the high-class Arab ; while 
 Barker was not one whit behind his friend in Nature's 
 gifts, though of a totally different style. The Anglo-Saxon 
 
80 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 was strongly indicated in his laughing, fair countenance, 
 lit up with the best-tempered pair of dark blue eyes, 
 and shaded with a profusion of fair, bright, curly locks. 
 His attire was of the same sporting cut and texture, only, 
 if anything, a little more foppish ; his steed was from the 
 same desert regions, a perfect specimen of that justly- 
 lauded breed. Two more daring or dashing soldiers or 
 horsemen it would be difficult to find, and although years 
 have passed siace their life's blood was shed in their 
 country's cause, their names still live in sporting circles as 
 undoubted noblesse in the art of venerie. 
 
 Poets and authors have lauded the Arab horse, and 
 worthily does this most noble animal deserve all the praise 
 that can be bestowed on him. Tor those who have not 
 had opportunities of making his acquaintance, a few words 
 of description may not be thrown away. Its general 
 colour is white or grey, occasionally chestnut, and more 
 rarely brown ; height rarely exceeding fourteen hands and 
 a-half; broad, expanded forehead; remarkably large, 
 bright, intelligent eyes; fine, tapering muzzle; immense 
 nostrils and deep jowl ; small pricked ears ; thin withers ; 
 splendid shoulder; barrel-like carcase; very compact, 
 muscular quarters ; taU set very high and square, with legs 
 beneath the knee flat as a board. Though scarcely so fast 
 as our best thorough-breds, they are capable of occasionally 
 doing their mile in 1'48, as the racing calendar of India 
 will" prove. In addition to all these good qualities, it 
 stands out paramount in docUity, endurance, and courage, 
 for it will face the fiercest beast of prey its rider can 
 charge it at, relying entirely on the will and discretion of 
 its jockey — a performance which I have seldom found 
 
First Blood. 81 
 
 an Australian horse equal to, and still less an English 
 animal. 
 
 Half-an-hour must have elapsed when the distant sound 
 of the beaters struck welcomely on the ear, and Captain 
 M'Carthy proposed an immediate taking to saddle and 
 cessation of conversation. As we did not wish to separate, 
 we determined all to remain on one side, as there was 
 known to be quite a surplus of game on the beat, and if 
 we failed to kill the veteran to-day, we should find 
 sufficient to amuse us, and defer his fate to a future 
 occasion. The Captain and Lieutenant — the latter was 
 Barker's rank — were soon in the saddle. First having 
 each carefully selected a spear from the half-dozen carried 
 by their favourite shikaree or constant hunting attendant, 
 and calling on me to attend them, they put their respective 
 horses, Saltoun and Zampa, to a smart canter, striking for 
 the edge of the ravine, where the brush looked thicker 
 and more impenetrable. Louder and louder the discordant 
 but stUl exhilarating cries of the beaters struck upon our 
 impatient ears. Occasionally a more demonstrative shout 
 would rise, indicating that the quarry was afoot and had 
 been seen. With our nerves strung to the greatest possible 
 tension, and keeping the most profound silence, we 
 awaited the result. An occasional rustling, or cracking of 
 some withered limb, would place us upon the qui vive; 
 but the sound would soon die away, telling that the 
 intruder had preferred to pass on, and retain the shelter 
 of the interwoven scrub, rather than take the open country. 
 Step by step the beaters advanced, and the delay was 
 becoming painful. The swarthy natives having nearly got 
 abreast of our position, we were on the point of moving 
 
82 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 half-a-mile farther down, when, to our delight, a grizzled 
 old veteran, his snow-white tusks and jaws bedaubed 
 with saliva, rushed for the open, with a speed perfectly 
 astonishing for an animal of such ungainly and awkward 
 proportions. Not one of us moved a muscle, weU knowing 
 if the boar became alarmed before he got some distance on 
 the plain, he would probably return to the friendly shelter 
 he had just left. On he went in a straight line, evidently 
 determined to make for a belt of bush about three miles 
 distant. As M'Carthy detected growing indications of a 
 desire for immediate pursuit, he begged that we would 
 let the brute have a few minutes' more law, adding, sotto 
 voce, " Perhaps when you get near him, the cultivation of 
 his acquaintance may not be quite so desirable." At length, 
 with one accord, pursuit was commenced, and settling 
 myself down in the saddle, foot home in the stiiTup, and 
 nag well in hand, I settled into a slashing gallop. My 
 mount was excessively restless, probably from his being 
 frequently raced, and with all my exertion I could not get 
 his head down. I was much lighter than my acquaintances, 
 and that fact, in combination with the irregularity of the 
 surface of the ground, gave me an immense advantage, so 
 that, almost before I was aware of it, I was leading by 
 several lengths. Even thus early my nag had made 
 several stumbles on account of his star-gazing propensity, 
 but what was I to do ? — I would rather have broken my 
 neck than have pulled up. I believe I would cheerfully 
 have given a month's pay and allowances on a double batta 
 station to have had on a martingale. However, I consoled 
 myself with the re^gction that, as some distance was yet 
 to be travelled before I came alongside my antagonist, the 
 
First Blood. 83 
 
 fatigue would somewhat reduce the surplus fire in my 
 now hateful mount. For the first half-mile we did not 
 appear to be overtaking our prey, but afterwards each 
 stride visibly shortened the intermediate space, and, barring 
 accident, I might expect soon to range alongside. Still my 
 steed would keep his objectionable snout in the air; every 
 stratagem and effort I knew of was employed, yet I could 
 not bring his head down to its proper place. Not more 
 than seventy yards now intervened, and I had balanced 
 my spear at the proper grip, in order that I might the 
 better be prepared for immediate action, when Goldfinder 
 misplaced his foot and threw me forward on his withers. 
 "Would that I could have been striding my own tried 
 and gallant little horse ! Eichard offered his kingdom for 
 a nag; I believe I would have given my commission, 
 which, to me, was equally valuable. Although I had lost 
 several leiigths by the stumble, my misfortune was nothing 
 more, for I was soon back in my saddle, and dashing 
 along at the same break-neck pace. Whenever I could 
 spare my eyes from my horse I fixed them on the boar, 
 possibly to measure the lasting powers of my antagonist, 
 for he was still running fresh and apparently unfagged, an 
 occasional grunt of defiance from him striking upon my 
 ear, and sounding as if my foe was throwing back into 
 my teeth a challenge to mortal combat. Suddenly the 
 quarry's stride became contracted, and, with his feet 
 well under him, he made a splendid leap over something 
 — what it was, I could not see. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A SHARP BURST. 
 
 AS it is a current saying that " whatever a hog can 
 jump, a horse will have no difficulty in flying," 
 so any idea of shirking the leap never entered my head. 
 Getting my mount in hand a little better, as a necessary 
 caution, in case we suddenly got into rough ground, 
 I ran Goldfinder at it, at about the same spot that the boar 
 had taken. My nag still kept his head turned to the skies 
 in search of stars, which he was destined to make both his 
 rider and self see before many moments. To say that 
 he jumped, or made any alteration in his gait, would be 
 simply untrue ; at the same pace as he was going, and as 
 if no such place existed, he dropped into the " dry crack " 
 (for such it was — an obstacle of frequent occurrence 
 throughout the arid plains of India), sending me head 
 foremost on the opposite side, and making me more 
 suddenly and less ceremoniously acquainted with mother 
 earth than I ever hope to be again. However, I received 
 
A Sharp Burst. 85 
 
 no more serious damage than the loss of some hide off the 
 prominent portions of my physiognomy, and with as much 
 rapidity as I could command picked myself up, in order 
 that I might be certain to secure my detestable Bucephalus 
 before he had gained his legs. I had not a moment to spare, 
 for he was already half out, and but that the reins had 
 been turned over his head when I got the somersault, I 
 might not have succeeded. So rapidly had the whole scene 
 passed, that my friends had only obtained a slight lead ; 
 so a sudden turn or trifling mishap might yet give me 
 a chance of first blood. Without waiting to see what 
 injury the horse had suffered, I sprang upon his back, 
 and, barring that he moved a little stiflF for the first few 
 strides, an outsider could not have remarked any difference. 
 From leading the hunt, I now had the pleasure of whipping 
 up the ruck — a place little to my satisfaction. Master 
 piggy had, so far, not shown any signs of fatigue, and 
 his steady gait and measured stride were indications of an 
 indomitable spirit and formed determination of fighting the 
 enemy whenever they encroached upon his route, or 
 attempted to impede his progress. Barker led M'Carthy 
 by some lengths. A few strides more would range the 
 leading horseman alongside, and he had already poised his 
 spear, and had taken his horse to the left, so as to deliver 
 the honoured thrust with decision, when his bright spurs 
 struck the flank of his gallant Arab, who, nobly answering 
 the call, put on an additional burst, and the next moment 
 the glittering, keen weapon was passed through the hog's 
 flank. The thrust, however, was only a flesh-wound. 
 
86 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 Some irregularity in the pace of the horse, or a sudden 
 swerve in the boar, caused the weapon to slant, and instead 
 of going in between the shoulder and descending, it had 
 glanced off the right blade-bone, and, penetrating through 
 several inches of flesh, had come out beneath. The wound, 
 although a ghastly one, was not necessarily mortal. As the 
 successful sportsman parted with his weapon, the boar 
 charged to the left, and, but for the agility of Barker's 
 horse and the promptness of his bridle-hand, would 
 probably have succeeded in effecting damage. Barker was 
 now disarmed, and therefore no longer able to give 
 assistance. He had had the honour of first spear, but in 
 taking that had become hors de combat. Only M'Carthy 
 and myself therefore remained to finish the drama, and 
 the uncertain disposition of my horse rendered my service, 
 in case of emergency, not much to be trusted to. The 
 hog's deviation enabled me to cut off an angle, and if the 
 Captain failed, an opportunity for redeeming myself 
 would be at hand. The pace of our quarry had become 
 considerably slackened. The wound and loss of blood 
 were telling, and the inconvenience of eight feet of a male 
 bamboo dangling from his brawny side was not calculated 
 to improve at any time a doubtful temper. M'Carthy 
 raised himself in his stirrups, took a feeler on his horse's 
 mouth, and being assured that all was right, and that the 
 gallant nag was ready for his share of the work, rushed 
 him alongside, and buried his blade deep in the infuriated 
 victim's back. Still the animal did not fall, but, after 
 staggering a few paces, came to bay, steadying himself to 
 
A Sharp Burst. 87 
 
 meet to the best advantage the first aggressor. " Neck or 
 nothing!" I muttered between my compressed lips, and 
 with an unexpressed but fervent desire that Goldfinder 
 would go straight, I charged at my formidable adversary. 
 The shock of the fall or the severity of the pace had been 
 beneficial, for without a swerve my nag headed right at 
 him, and as he rose to clear the hog with a jump, I struck 
 well and home, but stUl too far in rear to have an 
 immediate effect. However, I was pleased with the effort, 
 for both M'Carthy and Barker simultaneously exclaimed, 
 "Well done!" The hog now squatted on his hams, 
 turning his wicked small eyes, darting rays of hate, at 
 his pursuers. Once he turned round, and, with an angry 
 grunt, ground into shreds the tough spear handle which 
 still adhered to him. M'Carthy, however, was ready to go 
 at him again. A second time he reined his steed to the 
 struggle, the boar staggered forward to meet him, but this 
 last efi'ort only hurried the execution of the death-warrant, 
 for the skilfully-handled blade took the foe in front of the 
 shoulder, and, passing downwards, pierced the heart. As 
 our victim turned over on his flank, the death-halloo was 
 sounded with all the energy that our united lungs could 
 command, and numerous were the congratulations we 
 exchanged on the successful termination of so hard-fought 
 a battle. 
 
 Our horses had all suffered from the severity of the 
 pace, and with one accord we dismounted to slacken 
 girths and turn their heads to the wind, the better to 
 enable them to enjoy any passing draught of air. On 
 
Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 examining Goldfinder, I found that his escapade in the 
 ravine had not injured him otherwise than to deprive him 
 of some hair. The entire run from start to finish was very 
 fast, and Barker received due praise for the honour he had 
 earned in drawing first blood, or otherwise taking first spear. 
 I could not forbear, during this interval of relaxation, 
 from giving M'Carthy a bit of my mind for having lent me 
 such a brute, adding that it was a mercy he hadn't broken 
 my neck ; in fact, I felt a little sore at his treatment, 
 for assuredly I had never straddled such a dangerous, 
 headstrong brute. But the gallant Captain soon explained 
 all, and that to my satisfaction. He had had the horse in 
 his stable for some months, and when he first procured him 
 his conduct was similar to his performance of this day, but 
 finding he had a bold and determined rider on his back, he 
 had gradually succumbed, and had performed on many 
 late occasions most satisfactorily. The groom had, morever, 
 forgotten to put a ring on the reins; and although 
 Goldfinder's owner had noticed this, he had preferred not 
 acquainting me with this apparently trifling piece of 
 carelessness, fearing it would worry and annoy me, and 
 thereby take much of my interest from the sport. 
 
 The motley crew of beaters at length came up, and 
 numerous and varied were their comments upon our 
 success. One of the shikarees assured us that a larger 
 and older boar had broken cover, but that, after going 
 a short way into the open, he became alarmed and returned, 
 charging through their scattered ranks, to the dismay and 
 trepidation of the sable crowd. As soon as our horses 
 
A Sharp Burst. 
 
 89 
 
 were refreshed, and the necessary instructions given for 
 the transportation of our game to camp, we started on our 
 return, deeming that our faithful steeds had worked enough 
 for one day, and, as we had no remounts out, we would 
 defer further execution till the morrow. 
 
 Indian scenery, with its too-frequently scorched 
 appearance, stiU has a fascination. The grass-covered 
 plains, the broken ground, the magnificent giant trees, 
 the watercourses, always embanked with numerous 
 flowering shrubs — together form a pleasant landscape; 
 and although the sun may be oppressive and overpowering 
 in its rays, its brightness still adds charm, without which 
 the view of the most favoured portions of the globe would 
 look sombre, gloomy, and depressing. 
 
«* 
 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE STOKM. 
 
 THE day was not far advanced when we reached our 
 temporary forest home, light-hearted, joyous, and 
 thankful for the excellence of our run and the success 
 of its termination. Steer was still en deshabille, and in 
 far from an amiable frame of mind at not having witnessed 
 what my friends concurred in calling the fastest and best 
 run of the season. While we were fresh and hungry, 
 anxious for some tiffin, he was fretful and peevish at 
 having been left behind, to toss restlessly on his couch, 
 without the benefit of the fresh air of morning. Tiffin 
 was rapidly served and disposed of, and each betook 
 himself to his favourite book and cigar to while away the 
 remainder of the day. I have previously stated that we 
 were under canvas in a beautiful grove, but the nature 
 and lay of the ground require fuller description, that 
 after-events may be more easily understood. The ground 
 on which we were encamped was level and smooth, covered 
 
The Storm. 91 
 
 with a close bottom of short grass, the result of the 
 beneficial shade of the mammoth trees. Fifty yards on 
 the left there began a gradual ascent, covered with brash 
 and interspersed with broken rock, gradually becoming 
 more rough as the hiU. ascended, and ultimately terminating 
 in a rocky bluff, fantastic and irregular in shape — the 
 undoubted retreat of many a skulking jackal and hyena as 
 well as of innumerable reptiles. M'Carthy, as I heard 
 afterwards, had objected to taking up his residence so 
 near to a probable ambush, but the vicinity of water and 
 the wishes of the attendants had combined to gain his 
 consent. The afternoon turned out hot and sultry, the 
 morning breeze subsiding into a calm ; within doors, even 
 with an attendant fanning you, but a limited amount of 
 comfort could be enjoyed. We had expected that my 
 companions would have arrived ere this, and, but that 
 we wished to be at hand to welcome them, our pajamas * 
 would have been donned, and a siesta attempted. 
 However, at two o'clock, a chattering among the attendants 
 proclaimed the advent of strangers; and Beamish, Peel, 
 and Strangeways hove in sight. "We were now a jolly 
 party, seven in all, and while the servants were pitching 
 new habitations, their masters were pitching into the 
 viands. A meeting such as this, in the greenwood glade 
 or on the swelling prairie, has always its fascination; 
 the farther from the haunts of countrymen, the more 
 warm you feel towards them if chance should bring you 
 
 * A light suit of flannel, generally slept in. 
 
92 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 in contact. You pass a mere acquaintance with a nod 
 of recognition in Eegent Street, but if you should 
 encounter him on the slopes of the Eocky Mountains or 
 in the sUent forests of the North-West, you hail his 
 appearance with open arms. 
 
 There is nothing more lively and gay than the camp 
 of the soldier or sportsman in tropical India. The hordes 
 of attendants, of all classes, castes, sexes, and ages, are all 
 engaged in some occupation or another; for the Hindoo, 
 unlike his European brother, strictly confines himself to 
 one line of work, out of which he will not step imless 
 absolute compulsion is used. Hence, while in other 
 countries one or two attendants only are required, here 
 a dozen, more or less, are necessary. Your groom would 
 feel himself insulted if asked to look after your dogs, and 
 your body-servant would never survive being sent to 
 carry water. If you smoke a hookah, a boy is necessary 
 to look after it and keep it in order. That which is no 
 person's special business is soon neglected, while if a 
 particular task is allotted to each, they will generally 
 attend to it faithfully. Again, round a European's 
 encampment are numerous animals, such as horses, dogs, 
 cattle, goats, and sheep, besides pets in variety sufficient 
 to stock a menagerie. However, the whole makes an 
 effective picture, relieved and improved by the snow-white 
 graceful garments of the natives. Moreover, they are a 
 handsome race — perhaps a little effeminate in features, but 
 their figures are invariably upright and well-proportioned, 
 with a truly stately carriage. Dinner had been disposed 
 
The Storm. 93 
 
 of with the setting sun, and we all, with one accord, had 
 seated ourselves outside our dining-tent. Days gone by and 
 distant friends formed the principal topic of conversation, 
 for we were unusually quiet, the heat having become 
 oppressive in the extreme, and electricity surcharging the 
 atmosphere. An unnatural and portentous stillness 
 pervaded the scene, only occasionally broken by the shriU, 
 strange cry of a sort of lizard, the certain foreboder of rain. 
 M'Carthy had left us but a few moments, when he returned, 
 with the information that the barometer had fallen, and 
 that if he was not much mistaken we were destined to see 
 an uncomfortable night. A hint like this, from an old 
 stager, was not to be despised, and soon a crowd of 
 half-asleep and wholly unwilling natives were summoned 
 to dig gutters, put up storm-ropes and ease the tent-poles, 
 the further to guarantee the safety of our fragile dwellings 
 in case we should be visited by a tornado. In the course 
 of my experience I have never found anything, more 
 abominable — and many of our gallant soldiers doubtlessly 
 think likewise — than being ruthlessly awakened from 
 your peaceful slumbers by a wet tent flapping about your 
 ears, having to grope your way from underneath the 
 ruins, and, perhaps, standing in a state of semi-nudity, 
 exposed to the sweeping blast and penetrating rain. 
 Well was it that M'Carthy had given us the hint, for 
 within an hour the storm was upon us, giving no further 
 warning than a deep muttering sound caused by its 
 rapid approach. 
 
 Dry leaves, straw, and all light substances were caught 
 
94 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 up and wheeled into the air, with a quick spiral motion, 
 as if by the action of innumerable little whirlwinds, 
 although as yet not a breath of air was stirring around 
 us. Dark, black, impenetrable clouds rose over the 
 tree-tops with a rapidity that showed the power of the 
 propeUing wind, and the faint light emitted by the stars 
 was suddenly shrouded in total darkness. A sudden flash 
 of livid lightning illuminated the heavens with a ghastly 
 glare, its dazzling brilliancy causing all to close their eyes; 
 a noise as of a thousand siege-guns rapidly followed, 
 making the earth tremble with fear at the superlative 
 voice of the angry thunder. Ko signal from peak of 
 man-of-war could have been more rapidly answered, for 
 ere the echoes had died away, the rain descended with a 
 violence and body little less than that of a cataract, while 
 the wind tore round indicative of a force irresistible. The 
 trees groaned and lashed the air, rubbing their gigantic 
 limbs together, and evincing a strong inclination to 
 prostrate themselves before the power of the Omnipotent. 
 The din, the noise and tumult, caused by the breaking 
 branches and falling trees, combined with the appalling 
 thunder and falling torrent, made a most impressive, 
 grand, and awful scene. What man who is a witness to 
 such terrific grandeur can fail to be impressed, and more 
 firmly than ever believe in the omnipotence and 
 overpowering strength of the Creator ? How much better 
 would it be for all of us if we would think, and cease less 
 soon to forget the beneficial impressions produced on such 
 occasions! Again and again the gale, with increased 
 
The Storm. 95 
 
 power, surged over the surface of the earth, and in each 
 repeated effort increased in its violence, tUl it appeared 
 impossible that aught could resist its influence. Still our 
 tents remained standing, but wondrously changed in 
 shape — now bellying out on one side as if they would 
 burst, at the next moment contracting, causing the 
 occupants to be in constant dread of a collapse. 
 Nevertheless, the scene was not without a certain amount 
 of satisfaction, and imparted the same feelings that the 
 rage of the ocean arouses in a brave heart — an appreciation 
 and admiration of its sublimity. Fortunately these 
 tornadoes do not last long, and in a couple of hours from 
 its advent it had passed away to leeward, leaving naught 
 but the ddhris and our own memory to recall the episode. 
 Although at the outset these storms cause discomfort and 
 inconvenience, their results fuUy compensate for both; 
 vegetation and animal life receive new vigour, the heated 
 air becomes cool, and the breezes are loaded with fragrance 
 emitted from the formerly parched flora; the whole woods 
 are animated; insects, lizards, and tree-frogs emit their 
 joyous, harmonious notes; the horses neigh, and the goats 
 bleat, in probable anticipation of fresh and succulent 
 herbage for their morning repast. 
 
 The effect was much the same on us frail mortals. 
 Soon we were all congregated. Our former depression of 
 spirits had fled with the storm, our plans were laid for the 
 morrow, and all, with the exception of Peel, determined to 
 visit the Todah Valley. He however, had different views, 
 and being the happy possessor of a newly-imported brace 
 
96 
 
 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 of pointers, resolved to devote himself to the pursuit of 
 the feathered beauties. This gentleman, unfortunately 
 for himself, was never a proficient in the saddle, and 
 invariably preferred walking to straddling a horse. 
 Hog-sticking he had attemped several times, but owing 
 to his deficiency in equitation had received so many and 
 such severe falls, that he was always glad to seize an 
 excuse that would justify his backing out. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 A VETERAN BOAR. 
 
 ALTHOUGH we all retired late, it did not prevent our 
 putting in an early appearance next morning. The 
 beaters, who had to travel to the, hunting-ground on foot, 
 were despatched hefore daylight, and we followed them an 
 hour afterwards. Our horses were all in excellent spirits, 
 the freshness of the air and the previous day's rest having 
 told most advantageously upon them, and not one iota 
 less did their riders enjoy the atmospheric change. Our 
 journey was pleasant and merry, each vying with the 
 other in loquacity and good-humour. Never can I look 
 back on those pleasant times without regret, for they are 
 past, probably never to be repeated. Who is there 
 whose existence, however sad, has not some bright spot 
 worthy of remembrance, that, when recalled, appears as an 
 oasis placed in the middle of a desert ! Near the scene 
 of our previous day's exploits, we overtook our sable 
 attendants, who mustered strong, thus increasing the 
 
98 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 prospect of good sport. Everything was suitable as far 
 as weather was concerned — it was bright, cool, and 
 fresh, and the evening shower had made the ground in 
 much better order for galloping. As the number of 
 horsemen was also increased, M'Carthy, who was 
 universally elected leader, decided that we should divide, 
 and three take each side, while, if we spread ourselves 
 along the valley, we could stiU be within range of each 
 other's vision, and at the same time afford less chance 
 for any game that should be forced afoot getting an 
 opportunity to escape without being seen. Peel had 
 accompanied us thus far, but as we were detailed off for 
 our different posts by our chief ^ro Um., he started in an 
 opposite direction, where, from the number of cultivated 
 fields and the frequent occurrence of habitations, the best 
 promise of feathered game was made. 
 
 Our disposition was as follows : M'Carthy, Barker, and 
 myself took the right side, while Strangeways, Beamish, 
 and Steer took the other. As I placed myself at my 
 stand, nearly three-quarters of a mile below where the 
 beaters first broke in, with the Captain below me and the 
 Lieutenant above, I could not help thinking that the 
 unfortunate piggy who attempted to cross the open 
 to-day would stand an uncommonly good chance of 
 becoming pork. Some time of utter silence slipped by, 
 while I with sharp eye and quick ear tried to detect the 
 slightest sound and note the most trifling movement. So 
 far, nothing had broke, unless it was some skulking jackal, 
 or equally ignominious prowler. Again and again some 
 
A Veteran Boar. 99 
 
 imaginary noise had for the moment made me more alert, 
 but as rapidly the false alarm subsided. The turmoil, 
 proclaiming the distant advance of the beaters, was now 
 borne upon the breeze; first there was only an occasional 
 shout of some more powerful and energetic member of the 
 dusky crew, but at length the noise of all was distinctly 
 heard, like the babbling of a distant pack. As I have the 
 heart to love all kinds of field sports, such a scene as the 
 present was most enjoyable to me; for although none of 
 the larger game were in sight, few moments elapsed 
 without crowds of feathered denizens of the forest being 
 disturbed and compelled to take wing from their shady 
 retreats. The peacock, grand in size and gorgeous in 
 plumage; the jungle fowl, doubtless the original of our 
 domestic poultry, yet the wildest and most difficult of 
 approach of all small game; the crow pheasant (a member 
 of the cuckoo family), and numerous others, whiz past, aU 
 offering tempting shots, though, as I have nothing but a 
 hog spear, they might almost roost upon my horse's mane 
 with impunity. The second cheroot had been consumed, 
 and impatience began to manifest itself, when a shout 
 from Barker roused me from my lethargy. " Look out ! 
 look below there !" And look out I did. My position was 
 well selected, for I could command a good view without 
 being much exposed. I turned my gaze upwards towards 
 the direction from whence the beaters were advancing; 
 still nothing showed. I was just about to mutter, " What 
 abominable luck! just as usual," and so on, when the 
 sudden pricking of my horse's ears, and a certain 
 
100 Adventures in -many Lands. 
 
 nervousness of his manner, caused me to look to the right, 
 and there, stealing away like a fox from cover, was the 
 largest and most formidable boar I had ever yet seen. I 
 was on the point of shouting the view hallo, but for fear 
 that he had not got far enough, and might be prompted, if 
 then disturbed, to make a retrograde movement, I kept 
 silent. As soon as I dared, without fear of alarming my 
 antagonist, I jumped to the ground, and, with the rapidity 
 of a groom, took up a couple of holes in my girths, for 
 well I knew they must be slack, owing to the length of 
 time that had elapsed since the saddling had taken place, 
 and more than extra care was wanted to cope successfully 
 with a grizzly savage of such formidable dimensions. 
 With nervous hold I closed my knees as I re-seated 
 myself, and with comparatively slack rein gave head to 
 my clever horse, who soon settled down to a steady 
 three-quarter gaUop. "Now, boys," I said to myself, "it 
 will take a good man to deprive me of first blood." There 
 was no fear now of the quarry returning, so I gave vent to 
 my overstrung feelings with a joyous "Tally ho!" Oh, 
 M'Carthy, thou prince of sportsmen ! few have ever been 
 seen like thee before or since. Thy eye was sharp as the 
 hawk's, thy ear quick as the kangaroo's ! That one shout 
 was sufficient to give him warning, and before I had got 
 to within two hundred yards of my destined prey, I 
 was aware that he was thundering after me. I had no 
 longer the whole performance to myself — a false step, a 
 heavy stumble, or perchance a fall, would give the gallant 
 Captain a fair show for first blood, but still he should not 
 
A Veteran Boar. 101 
 
 have it if bold riding and willingness to dare aught would 
 bestow it upon me. The ground was admirable, smooth 
 and elastic ; a few strides more would bring me alongside. 
 Hold up, my gallant little horse ; serve me well this time, 
 and you shall have the first place in my affections ever 
 after. Closer and closer I approach, with the reins well 
 and firm in my bridle-hand. I lift my steed as to a 
 jump. As I do so, with a well directed-thrust I bury the 
 laurel-leaf-shaped spear-head deep in the brawny shoulder 
 of the boar, and ere he could revenge the insult, I was 
 out of the reach of his formidable tusks. I could have 
 shouted — I believe I did. I had taken the spear of honour 
 in the face of the acknowledged best hog-sticker in the 
 Presidency. I've had various streaks of good luck in my 
 life, with various joyous sensations, among which I may 
 reckon the feelings of satisfaction each time that I saw my 
 promotion in the Gazette — ^the feelings of internal pride 
 when I first donned my uniform — my first successful essay 
 on the racecourse; but all fell far short of my satisfaction 
 at this moment : and as I wheeled round with the intention 
 of administering the cowp de grace, I felt little ambition to 
 dispute with M'Carthy the honour of terminating the 
 drama. The boar, as I struck him, charged to the left, but 
 the agility of my horse prevented this manoeuvre from 
 being effective. Being thus foiled in his intent. Master 
 Piggy continued his course almost at right angles to that 
 which he had previously pursued, and thus afforded my 
 friend a better opportunity of coming in early to join in 
 the mSMe. In hog-hunting I have invariably found that. 
 
102 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 if the quarry change the direction of his flight from 
 compulsion or an acquaintance with steel, he afterwards 
 continues for some distance his new course. The Captain 
 was now many strides nearer than myself, but the 
 excitement of the run had put my nag upon his mettle, 
 and as I directed him again to his work, his ardour and 
 spirits knew no bounds, for with each stride he bore so 
 upon his bit as almost to pull me out of the saddle. 
 However, there was little need for any further assistance, 
 for M'Carthy, ranging alongside, struck strong and true; 
 and though the hog continued about fifty paces farther, 
 the blood streaming from his mouth, he gradually relaxed 
 his pace, and, stumbling over an irregularity in the 
 ground, fell to rise no more. On returning to the cover, 
 we found that Barker was busily employed about half-a- 
 mile off, and, before we could join him, had numbered 
 another of the tusked gentry with the "have beens." 
 Our horses were still fresh, and we were anxious for more 
 work; nor were we long disappointed, for a few minutes 
 after a "sounder" broke cover, under the leadership of a 
 gaunt, flat-sided female. The young ones were scarcely 
 half-grown, so that their mother became the only 
 object of attention, and a spirited race took place. The 
 difference of weight, if not the speed of our nags, was in 
 my favour, for by the time I had drawn first blood, after a 
 sharp burst of three-quarters of a mile, I led the gallant 
 Captain by ten lengths. Barker also had cut in and 
 brought up the rear a good third, and to him fell the 
 honour of dealing the death-blow. This second essay had 
 
A Veteran Boar. 103 
 
 blown both horses and riders, and as we dismounted and 
 slackened girths, we agreed over our cigars that enough 
 is as good as a feast ; so that when the beaters joined us, 
 and had received the necessary instructions for the 
 finding of the different victims, we started for home in 
 the best possible spirits at the result of our forenoon's 
 performances. 
 
 When we reached our jungle encampment it was 
 glittering in the sun, for the luminary was now high in 
 the heavens, and the reflected heat from the warmed earth 
 was already becoming oppressive. Our adventures of the 
 morning had whetted our appetites, and a substantial tiffin, 
 washed down with an abundance of AUsopp's pale ale, soon 
 satisfied the inward man ; the cool spring near which we 
 were situated having previously afforded each a luxurious 
 bath. The desire to know the success of the rest of the 
 party prevented us doubtless from taking a siesta. They 
 did not come, and one by one we dropped off to our 
 respective dormitories to enjoy our otium — ^probably sine 
 dignitate. Well it was we did so, for neither Peel nor 
 the others turned up till the long shadows of the evening 
 proclaimed a termination of day. In his hurry to get 
 divested of his equipments. Peel fastened his pointers, 
 coupled together, to an unused tent-peg some fifty paces off, 
 till his dog-coolie (who was temporarily absent) returned, 
 in order that he might the better join in discussing the 
 day's work. The other trio had, numerically, been more 
 successful than ourselves, but all that they had killed 
 were small, while a large boar, which from their description 
 
104 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 must have been as big as a jackass, made good his escape. 
 Our gunner had also a heavy bag, and visions of fricassde, 
 and " spatchcock " floated before our imaginations for the 
 morrow's breakfast. Scarcely time for a change of raiment 
 had elapsed when dinner was announced, and what our 
 service and table lacked in equipments was amply made 
 up in the abundance and variety of dishes. Again and 
 again the social bottle passed round the table, and as we 
 were to separate on the morrow for different sections of 
 the country, healths, good wishes, and future meetings 
 were drunk. But hark ! what is that unearthly shout ? 
 Our native attendants come tumbling into our tent as 
 unceremoniously as if an evil spirit were after them. Not 
 a word of satisfaction can we obtain ; the entire crowd are 
 terror-stricken and dumb, and the only sound that now 
 strikes the ear is the most unearthly, discordant howling of 
 a dog. At length, one more courageous than his fellows 
 utters the dreaded word " bagh !" and the dusky crew 
 seem to cower stiU more at the temerity of the speaker. 
 None of us required further information; no "griffin" is 
 up country a week but knows that this is native language 
 for tiger. With a simultaneous impulse each seizes 
 whatever weapon he can lay his hand on. Fortunately, 
 several double rifles, already loaded, hang against the 
 tent-pole, and, arming ourselves with them, we rush to 
 the scene of action. The moon had now risen, bright and 
 clear ; stOl nought could be seen ; only the painful howling 
 of a dog is heard on the hill-side not over two hundred 
 yards from the camp. What could it mean ? Where were 
 
A Veteran Boar. 105 
 
 the pointers ? The whole scene flashed upon us like a 
 dream. The unlucky dogs had been left out, and a hungry 
 tiger had pounced upon them, carrying off one bodily, 
 and dragging the other unfortunate by the coupling strap 
 attached to his now, doubtless, dead companion. All were 
 in a state of excitement. The younger portion proposed 
 an immediate pursuit, while M'Carthy, long accustomed 
 to all the mishaps of the hunting-field, in a cool but 
 stern voice requested those who had not yet procured 
 guns to do so without delay. Still we could hear the 
 painful howling of the unfortunate canine, decreasing in 
 volume and frequency as it was dragged farther and 
 farther up the rugged hill-side. The suspense was awful, 
 but fortunately short, for soon all were on the spot, 
 armed with either rifle or shot-gun loaded with ball. 
 The position of the unfortunate dog was most pitiable. His 
 comrade no doubt had been killed in a moment, but for 
 the survivor to be thus dragged, without the power of 
 resistance, to certain death, from the midst of his friends 
 and protectors, without a chance of escape, was truly 
 horrible. With strict injunctions to keep together and 
 act in unison, with a number of the most trustworthy 
 natives, each carrying a lighted brand snatched from the 
 camp fire, we aU started, the plaintive moaning of the 
 unfortunate pointer being our guide. Luckily, the cover 
 was sparse; still, the bloodthirsty brute could tra,vel, 
 even with such a clog attached to him, faster than we 
 could advance. M'Carthy had, however, little doubt that, 
 if we pressed on, the destroyer would be kept too much 
 
106 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 occupied to mutilate his living victim. It was with 
 difficulty that Peel could be kept back ; each howl seemed 
 to imbue him with a fresh desire to wreak vengeance on 
 the despoiler, and as argument became useless we had to 
 resort to force. At length we gained the crest of the ridge, 
 and, from the distinctness of the less-frequently repeated 
 howls, were evidently nearer the marauder. " On, on,boys !" 
 was the word; "we're gaining on him; give him no rest. 
 See! what is that? don't you perceive?" Something 
 white was seen rushing towards us, and, wonderful to say, 
 the lost dog bounded into our midst. Never was a friend 
 received with greater pleasure and ecstasy. All crowded 
 around him, anxious to pat or caress one who had almost 
 risen from the dead; nor was the poor brute's glee a bit 
 less demonstrative, for scarcely could he stand stOl a 
 moment to be looked at. His coUar was off, and 
 doubtlessly in the rough hauling he had received it had 
 slipped over his head. 
 
CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 THE SEARCH FOE THE MUEDEEEK. 
 
 MANY hours elapsed, after we reached the tents, before 
 our excitement subsided. Peel still continued half- 
 crazed at the loss of his dog, and vowed vengeance on the 
 morrow upon the whole cat tribe for having deprived him 
 of the services of so valuable a servant. We all with 
 one accord determined to brave the displeasure of our 
 respective commanding officers, rather than permit our 
 friend to attempt alone so dangerous an undertaking as 
 hunting out the midnight marauder single-handed. Long 
 were the hours we sat discussing the matter and our 
 intended method of proceeding, and when we separated 
 to retire to our respective couches, the small hours of 
 the morning had arrived, guns had been cleaned, fresh 
 ammunition sought out, and everything attended to 
 which could ensure success. M'Carthy attempted to 
 induce some of our attendant peons to go and warn 
 the neighbouring villagers that their services would 
 
108 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 be required to assist in destroying the prowling savage, 
 but neither threats nor promises availed — all had been 
 too much alarmed to venture forth from the safety of 
 the encampment into the darkness. We had, therefore, 
 to rest satisfied with the promise of two of the shikarees 
 to start as soon as the first haze of dawn indicated the 
 approach of day. The break of morning is generally the 
 safest hour for travelling in such localities as are inhabited 
 by beasts of prey, for generally long ere then they have 
 satisfied their appetites, and are skulking home, to hide 
 themselves in the solitude of their dens, as if ashamed 
 of their bloodthirsty avocation. On the morrow, when 
 we marshalled, all armed to the teeth, and prepared for 
 any emergency, quite a host of darkies were on the 
 ground, no less anxious for success than ourselves, for 
 many a straggler from their flocks had lately disappeared, 
 and the fragments found afterwards removed all doubt 
 of their fate. The destruction of cattle in some parts of 
 India, through the attacks of wild animals, is so enormous 
 as to be incredible; even the number of human beings 
 carried off is far from small.* In the colony of Singapore 
 and vicinity, where spices and other shrubby plants are 
 cultivated, it is estimated that not less than one human 
 being per diem meets with an untimely end from tigers. 
 In fact, the natives are so much in dread of their visits 
 and audacity that they build their dwellings upon poles, 
 which elevate their houses from twelve to fifteen feet 
 
 * In one district, from official returns in three years, over tlu-ee hundred 
 natives and five thousand cattle were killed by tigers. 
 
Search for the Murderer. 109 
 
 above the level of the ground. However, it is seldom iu 
 India that a tiger takes to homicide until he becomes old 
 and effete, in fact unable to capture more active prey ; but 
 when once he has tasted human flesh, he prefers this 
 description of food to all others. He haunts fords, 
 neighbourhoods of public thoroughfares, or wells, and 
 pounces upon the unsuspecting traveller or letter-carrier, 
 in almost every instance with success. Many are the 
 villages that have become partially depopulated and 
 ultimately deserted because a man-eater has taken up his 
 residence in their vicinity. A curious result is said to 
 follow from this dietary. The criminal, after living for 
 some months in this manner, becomes subject to 
 hide-disease or mange, which, from the loss of hair and 
 skin eruptions, makes his pelt almost useless. 
 
 Seven well-armed Europeans, each provided with a 
 couple of double barrels, and, from constant practice, 
 nearly all good shots, were a formidable array, and the 
 probability was, that if the foe showed himself, this day 
 would terminate his career. However, nothing must be 
 done rashly, for numerous are the fatal accidents that 
 have resulted from following this sport. A tiger, however 
 severely wounded, and on the verge of death, from his 
 enormous strength and activity, can, with one blow, finish 
 any man's earthly career. A few years ago a work was 
 published, written by Lieutenant Eice, of the Indian 
 Army, who for a long period was the most successful 
 tiger-slayer in that distant land; and he, nearly in every 
 instance, followed the sport alone, as far as his own 
 
110 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 countrymen were concerned, only using a few of the 
 natives as beaters ; and success always attended him. 
 Those desirous of information upon this dangerous 
 description of shooting would do well to read his work, 
 and learn how one cool and determined person obtains 
 success. Another peculiarity which is worthy of noting 
 in reference to this subject is, that smooth-bore guns 
 loaded with ball are frequently used. This, probably, 
 can best be accounted for from the denseness of the 
 cover in which the haunts of the prey are found, and 
 the necessary short range at which your shots are fired. 
 
 After a lengthened consultation with the principals of 
 the assembled natives, it was decided that a neighbouring 
 nullah was the probable lair, and, as the distance to 
 this retreat was little over half-a-mile, the services of 
 our horses were dispensed with. Arrived at the ground, 
 the situation, as far as human judgment could form an 
 opinion, appeared just suited to form a welcome shelter. 
 Precipitous banks, overgrown with dense, tangled brush, 
 and covered with innumerable giant boulders, formed 
 many a sheltered nook and cranny, well screened from 
 the oppressive rays of the vertical sun. This nullah, 
 a couple of years before, had been the selected retreat of 
 one of these tyrants. He had paid the penalty of his 
 crimes, and up to the present time the ravine had been 
 free from these scourges ; but it was not unlikely that 
 his successor, who had adopted the same nefarious line 
 of business, had taken possession of the defunct tiger's 
 premises. Our beaters did their work manfully, and, in 
 
Search for the Murderer. HI 
 
 spite of briers and other obstacles, scoured thoroughly the 
 whole locale, ; but not a symptom of the presence of our foe 
 could be found, so that after an hour's fruitless labour, 
 disappointed in the results, we had to desist. Again a 
 council of war was held, and a second similar retreat 
 in the vicinity was pronounced as the most probable 
 holding-place ; but the result was a blank. The oppressive 
 heat, the exertion of walking, and possibly the desire for 
 breakfast, induced a unanimous decision for a temporary 
 cessation of hostilities, on the express stipulation that 
 all should join in making a further essay in the afternoon. 
 In the , meantime, natives were despatched a few rtules 
 round the neighbourhood to glean what information could 
 be obtained. Breakfast had been disposed of, and scarcely 
 had we smoked our first cheroot sufficiently low for it 
 to deserve the appellation of stump, when a courier 
 arrived with the news that he had discovered in the sand 
 surrounding a spring, three or four miles off, undoubted 
 footprints. Boot and saddle were now proclaimed, and 
 immediately afterwards, all mounted, we were again en route 
 to the expected rencontre. With what anxiety we all 
 dismounted and inspected the tell-tale tracks ! The signs 
 were unmistakable and fresh, while the shikarees, who 
 are skilled in such indications, pronounced that they had 
 been made the previous night. Doubtless the animal had 
 washed down his feast of dog-meat at this pool before 
 laying up for the day. On more closely examining the 
 ground, old signs were also found, so numerous, that little 
 doubt remained in our minds that this was a chosen resort 
 
112 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 after midnight excursions, and further convinced us that 
 the brute was not far distant ; for generally carnivora select 
 a retreat within a short distance of water, and invariably 
 slake their thirst at the same place. 
 
 Several pieces of dense thicket were in the vicinity, all 
 of which were carefully searched, but still without result, 
 and despair had almost again taken possession of us, when 
 a native was seen swinging his puggree, (the cloth which 
 they tie round their heads) in the air, and violently 
 gesticulating from a neighbouring height. This exhibition 
 acted like a talisman, for all well knew that it indicated 
 good news, and those who had commenced to lag and 
 predict faUure now sharpened up their pace, and vied 
 with their comrades in obtaining the news. If we had been 
 unsuccessful in viewing the game, we found that we had 
 unkennelled it, for the tiger, alarmed by the approach of 
 so many, and the noise made by the beaters, had thought 
 proper to steal off, but, fortunately, had been viewed by 
 this field-telegrapher, who had marked him down into a 
 ravine not over half-a-mile from our present position. 
 With strong hopes of at last gratifying our revenge, we 
 hurried forward, and ere we arrived at the designated 
 place, a second native confirmed the statement of the first, 
 for he had not only seen the tiger into the nullah, but 
 even pointed out his track on a bare piece of sandy soil. 
 The locality was found to be admirably suited for our 
 purpose, so that, if the foe had not passed on, we felt 
 convinced that he could not a second time escape our 
 vigilance. M'Carthy disposed each with the discretion of 
 
Search for the M^trderer. 113 
 
 an old hand, and as the thicket did not cover more than 
 an acre, all were within haUing distance in case of a view 
 hallo or accident. The preconcerted signal having been 
 given, the beaters, with heart and soul, went to their 
 work, and amid shouts and threats of vengeance, steadily 
 advanced towards the position of the guns. On, on they 
 came, and the excitement of aU was intense. Every 
 muscle and nerve was strung to the utmost tension. A few 
 moments more would proclaim the result. Each man 
 stood with his double-barrel, full cock, ready to send a 
 leaden messenger at the hateful animal. Half only of the 
 cover now remained, stiU nought had been seen, when a 
 shot announced that something was afoot. The oft-repeated 
 echoes had scarcely ceased reverberating, when a second 
 fire, from a different quarter, proclaimed that more than 
 one eye had seen the quarry, and that the villain was a 
 skulking coward — by far the most dangerous description 
 — who knew better than to leave the friendly shelter. 
 Again and again the shouts and derisive jeeriags of the 
 sable attendants rose as they forced their way forward; 
 yet still no further chance of a shot was afforded. So far, 
 only those that had fired knew what it was at, and the 
 less fortunate were blaming their want of luck. However, 
 a change soon came over the scene, and lively work 
 followed the prolonged inaction. At a point covered by 
 three guns, forth rushed a full-grown panther. Eour shots 
 turned him over ere he had gone ten paces, but soon 
 he was up, and, nothing daunted, continued his forward 
 course; ten strides farther would bring him upon Steer, 
 
114 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 who only now had one loaded barrel His gun was 
 pitched forward, and as the tube vomited forth its 
 contents, a cross shot from Barker struck the foe in the 
 loins, and he roUed over to rise no more. This fusUade 
 had brought the whole of our party together, when, to the 
 surprise of all, Strangeways announced that he had fired 
 at a tiger, and not at the defunct. This put a new phase 
 upon the play, and the temporarily deserted posts were 
 again maiined, the beaters were ordered to recommence 
 from the farther end, and scour the thicket afresh with 
 renewed energy and racket. But all was of no avail ; the 
 striped beauty had taken advantage of the opportunity 
 and escaped, possibly to fall at some future date before 
 another's rifle. 
 
CHAPTEE XIII. 
 
 THE TIGERS DEATH. 
 
 T^HEEE are no people on the face of the earth so 
 -^ capable of bearing fatigue as the lower-caste natives 
 of India. No day appears too long, no journey too far 
 for their agile frames, and the velocity with which they 
 advance is truly surprising. Frequently have I ridden 
 nine or ten miles within the hour, yet, when I halted, 
 my faithful syce was not far distant. Now what do you 
 think they live on, to render them capable of enduring, 
 without fatigue, such great exertions? Beef, you might 
 imagine, or some other equally strong food ; no ! nothing 
 but vegetable diet, except in rare cases. 
 
 As the beaters entered the cover, one would have 
 thought that they were fresh men, instead of being lately 
 so constantly worked, so great was their energy and desire 
 to see the marauder slain, and no doubt the possibility 
 
116 Adventures in many Lands, 
 
 of having a chance of singeing their inveterate enemy's 
 whiskers * acted as no mean stimulant. 
 
 I particularly observed from the first one dusky, 
 handsome peon, who acted as an accepted chief among 
 his sable associates, and from appearance and bearing 
 was well qualified to fill so important a post. I had 
 noticed him always the first to enter cover, and if a 
 symptom of reluctance or fear showed itself among the 
 others, he, in few words, ridiculed and laughed them out 
 of their timidity. All the natives carried some weapon, 
 many matchlocks, ■(• but in his powerful hand he held a 
 keen-bladed tulwar, J which doubtless he could handle 
 with effect. 
 
 The crew of beaters, as they pushed on, continued to 
 shout incessantly. Their previous exertions, even under 
 a vertical sun, had not impaired their mm. Forward, 
 forward they advanced, while my sporting companions 
 remained mute as death. Nervously each clasped his 
 trusty weapon ; twice a breaking branch or unexpected 
 sound caused a looked-for advent of game. Not fifty 
 yards now separated the representatives of the two 
 nationalities, and the quarry had not shown itself. Even 
 
 * Immediately on the death of a tiger the natives singe his whiskers, 
 believing it to be the greatest insult they can offer their bloodthirsty foe. 
 
 t Matchlocks are long-barrelled awkward guns, fired by means of a 
 lighted fuse, which is pushed into a pan containing priming, after the 
 manner of flint guns. 
 
 X Tulwar, a very keen-edged scimitar-shaped blade, in the use of which 
 some of the natives are great proficients. 
 
The Tiger ^s Death. 117 
 
 the rustling of the beaters' steps could be distinctly heard, 
 when, stealthily, slowly, crouching, with belly almost to 
 the ground, and step as silent as that of the flitting 
 phantom, there advanced from the bush the distxirber of 
 our previous evening's peace, his eyes livid with hate and 
 fury. In a moment he appeared to comprehend the 
 dangers of his situation, for, halting momentarily, he 
 turned to regain the friendly cover. But the pause had 
 been sufficient to afford time for aim. Three guns spoke 
 almost together, and with deep -muttered growl as he 
 retired two rugged bullets pierced his briUiantly-coloured 
 coat. Mischief now was in the wind, for, after blood had 
 been drawn, the most adventurous and hazardous had 
 better look well to their future proceedings.* Experience 
 informed us that our swarthy attendants were now in 
 imminent danger ; though he would not face the sahibs' f 
 bullets, the dark-skinned natives would receive less 
 ceremonious treatment. Above the ordinary sounds made 
 by the advancing peons rises a shout of extraordinary 
 shrOlness, and from my position numerous white-turbaned, 
 white-clothed figures were seen to ascend the scattered 
 saplings, while a wail of anguish issued from their vicinity. 
 This indication was plain, and difference of language failed 
 to prevent a full comprehension that some tragedy was 
 
 * The majority of tigers, when hunted, will, if possible, steal off, but, 
 once they are woundea, will attack indiscriminately man or beast that 
 has the misfortune to come in their way. 
 
 t The correct meaning of this word is "master," but the natives make 
 general use of it in speaking of Europeans. 
 
118 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 being enacted. Each, sportsman rushed from his post to 
 the scene of discord, determined to do all, to brave aught 
 and bring assistance to whomever had been seized by the 
 savage brute ; but all were too late, for the marauder, who 
 had seized the intrepid fellow whom I had previously 
 mentioned, had been satisfied to give him but one blow 
 with his powerful paw, and a sample of his teeth on the 
 shoulder, afterwards dropping his victim and continuing his 
 retreat.* We found poor Nana Aboul dreadfully shaken 
 and badly lacerated, but his heart and presence of mind 
 had not left him ; and as we bent over his prostrate figure, 
 examining and directing, so as to afford assistance to the 
 noble fellow, with glistening eyes and smiling countenance 
 he rejoicingly articulated that he had not succumbed 
 without testing the keenness of his tulwar across the 
 muscular forearm of his assailant. His weapon, which he 
 stiU retained in his nervous grasp, proved his assertion, for 
 a crimson stain was on its bright blade. Having' given 
 orders to have Nana conveyed out of further danger, we 
 re-established our cordon of beaters, and having been assured 
 by our horse-coolies, who remained between this cover and 
 retreat, that he had not left, with no lack of former 6lan 
 and determination we resumed our work. 
 
 Our men had not proceeded over thirty paces, after 
 
 * Such an occurrence as this is extremely common, and the number of 
 maimed hunters to he met with, who have received their wounds in similar 
 rencontres, is truly surprising. Yet when once these people imbibe a taste 
 for field sports, no number of accidents, but oiJy death, will cause them to 
 relinquish the pursuit. 
 
The Tiger's Death. 119 
 
 turning to the right-about, when an angry growl sent 
 them to tree, and many an excited voice proclaimed that 
 the game was in sight and determined to retreat no 
 farther. Knowing our people to be safe, we now collected 
 and advanced in mass, M'Carthy and Barker forming the 
 centre and front. StiU. we could see nothing; only an 
 occasional hissing growl admonished us that we were in a 
 dangerous precinct. The peons, who had now in many 
 instances descended and joined our company, tried to 
 point the foe's situation out, but our European eyes,* less 
 keen, failed to see him. At length, after we had moved 
 both to the right and left, a portion of the animal's tail 
 was plainly discerned, moving slowly but regularly to 
 and fro — a certain indication that mischief was brewinff. 
 Not more than fifty feet intervened, and two bounds 
 would place him in our midst. Providence, which has 
 gifted me with more than usually sharp vision, at length 
 helped me to distinguish a fawn-coloured patch traversed 
 by a dark line between the brush and gigantic-leaved 
 grasses, and owing to its distance from the moving 
 extremity of the carcass I had little doubt it must be in 
 near proximity to a vital portion. Thip. discovery I 
 conveyed to my companions in a subdued whisper, and as 
 I levelled to fire, I cautioned the others to be on the 
 qui vive. Simultaneously with my report the tiger rose 
 rampant on hind limbs, as with the intention of springing 
 
 * The keenness of the vision of the natives is truly surprising, and often 
 have I had game pointed out which every exertion failed to make me see. 
 
120 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 upon us ; but M'Carthy and Peel's quick shooting brought 
 him down equally rapidly, and as the marauder struggled 
 upon the blood-stained soil, a few more bullets gave him 
 the cowp de grdce.* 
 
 Each, I believe, drew a long and thankful breath at 
 the result. At least I know I did, for a tiger in this 
 position, wounded and unable to make his escape, is a 
 foe far from contemptible. On examining the carcass, we 
 found that the plucky feUow whom he had mauled spoke 
 truly, for a deep gash was found over the exterior muscles 
 of the forearm that must seriously have lessened his 
 travelling powers. Thus fell the destroyer of Peel's 
 pointer, and many were the rejoicings and congratulations 
 over our success. On our return to camp, while straggling 
 behind my companions, and traversing an open meadow, 
 I came across a wolf, and as my little Arab was fresh, 
 and would be benefited by a gallop, I determined to try 
 the feat of riding Mr. Lupus down. Two hundred yards 
 was the extent of law he had, and ere we had gone 
 a mile I was alongside. A few strides more enabled me 
 to send a bullet from my pistol through his valueless 
 hide. This feat I have since performed in America, and 
 any person well mounted can do likewise. However, 
 
 * DimevMons of an average-sized Tiger. — Length, including tail, 9 ft. 6 
 in. ; height at shoulder, 3 ft. 2 in. ; girth round chest, 5 ft. 6 in. ; girth 
 of arm, 2 ft. 8 in. ; girth of collar, 3 ft. ; length of tail, 2 ft. 9 in. Many, 
 however, have been killed much larger. I have frequently seen hides 
 upwards of 11 ft. The panther of India is quite as dangerous as the 
 tiger ; in size he is smaller and lighter iu build, hut appears to be possessed 
 of greater activity, while his vitality is proverbial. 
 
t 
 
 
 
 
 
The Tiger ^s Death. 121 
 
 I must say that the wolf of America, particularly the 
 large grey species, is more fleet and enduring than his 
 Asiatic hrother, owing, no doubt, to the effects of climate 
 and superiority of size. 
 
 That night was our last together, and a merry one it 
 was. The stalwart, giant trees of the tope reverberated 
 with the echoes of old familiar songs; the happy, joyous 
 laugh sounded far and near; and, as is usual on such 
 occasions, it was unanimously sung, and doubtlessly 
 recorded without dissenting voice, that all were jolly 
 good fellows. 
 
 Next morning after breakfast we broke up, never to 
 meet again. How sad the words ! As in Mrs. Hemans' 
 "Graves of a Household," the majority sleep the calm 
 still rest of death in difi'erent climes; three fell, though 
 not with their colours round their breast, yet under the 
 flag they had sworn to defend with life. My Httle Arab, 
 if he still lives, carries a stranger, and is reined by one 
 who probably knows not of his former prowess in the 
 hunting-field. Before I parted with him, he won two 
 races at the cantonment meeting, making your humble 
 servant rich in rupees. But whatever prosperity fortune 
 has bestowed or may vouchsafe me, never can I forget 
 the picturesque, happy encampment, or the true sterling 
 friends with whom I hunted in the Todah Valley. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 A FOREST SCENE. 
 
 THE diversity of climate and scenery in India is very 
 great. Hitherto my sporting had heen confined to 
 rideable ground, but if my kind young friends will go 
 with me, I will attempt to give them some idea of the 
 alluvial portions of the country, where the forest grows 
 so densely that the light of the sun is shut out, and where 
 the fat, slimy soil gives forth vapours noxious to nearly 
 all animals except amphibii. Such are the jungly regions 
 formed by the delta of the Ganges — familiarly known as 
 the Sunderbunds. 
 
 I had taken my gun and advanced into the jungle 
 immediately after tif&n, accompanied by two natives, in 
 order to try if we could not furnish our mess with some 
 of the numerous varieties of beautiful wild-fowl that 
 abound in such immense numbers in the various bayous 
 to be found scattered throughout all ihe low-lying forest 
 lands in the vicinity of large rivers. As it was far from 
 
A Forest Scene. 123 
 
 improbable that we might come in contact with some 
 of the ferce naturoe, I had chosen two of our most 
 faithful attendants, who had previously proved themselves 
 trustworthy when accident had placed me in a position 
 of imminent danger. Of all the people I have met in 
 different portions of the globe, there are none, in my 
 opinion, who for perfection of figure equal the Bengalese — 
 tall, slim, with good muscular development and handsome 
 faces. The artist might find subjects for his pencil, in 
 this Eastern continent, in every way equal to the most 
 approved torsos of Italy. 
 
 Not a breath of air was circulating. I was suffering 
 from the intense heat, and consequently advanced with 
 slow and exhausted steps. At last we struck a sheet of 
 water, a narrow bayou that penetrated far into the jungle, 
 edged on both sides by a thick growth of mangroves, 
 leaving few spots where it was possible for a man to gain 
 its brink without an immense amount of exertion. Near 
 the head of the lake was a clear open space, on which lay 
 the body of a dead buffalo, who had probably received his 
 death-blow from the unerring bullet of some European, 
 and had wandered away to the forest haunts of his youth 
 to yield up his noble spirit. Although we all stood close 
 to this ponderous carcass, an unusually large muggar, or 
 alligator, slowly emerged from his watery retreat, and, 
 either ignorant of our proximity or regardless of our 
 presence, advanced upon the mountain of carrion, and 
 commenced, with a rapacity fearfully disgusting, to 
 satiate his noonday appetite. Around on different sides 
 
124 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 could be seen his numerous confreres intently -watcliing his 
 movements, but afraid to intrude upon his lordly presence, 
 whOe vultures and adjutants swarmed on every limb, 
 ■waiting for their turn to share in the offensive banquet. 
 The solitariness and asperity of the spot, the sluggishness 
 and murkiness of the lake, the extreme denseness of the 
 foliage, together with the almost cavernous gloom which 
 such a concurrence of causes produced, were seen in awful 
 contrast with the several varieties of living objects that 
 met the sight on entering this sequestered glade. As 
 such scenes as this are only occasionally to be enjoyed, 
 and that only by the sportsman, far from the haunts of 
 man, they are doubly impressive, and leave behind them 
 indelible impressions, which up to the latest periods of 
 life are never forgotten. The mental associations excited 
 by the scene before me were anything but pleasing, as we 
 here read in one of Nature's most melancholy pages the 
 sad lesson of animal selfishness and ferocity. In the 
 rational creature, I fear it is the master-spring of motives, 
 intents, and actions, and exists as strongly as it does in 
 the irrational; in the latter, it is only the more obvious 
 because it is the less disguised. These reflections passed 
 rapidly through my thoughts as I gazed upon the living 
 things which swarmed in and about the dark water, on 
 whose banks the buffalo had breathed his last. As time 
 elapsed, numerous and varied additions were made to the 
 hungry assembly already collected in the shape of various 
 beasts and birds of prey, with reptiles of the most 
 obnoxious and horrible appearance — each hoping for the 
 
A Forest Scene. 125 
 
 time when they should be sufficiently strong to usurp the 
 place of honour, and keep at a respectful distance the 
 weaker claimants. 
 
 During all this time the large alligator was tearing off 
 immense pieces of putrid carrion, arid stowing them away 
 with as much ease and gusto as a gastronome would the 
 most tempting tit-bits. A spirit of hatred and enmity, or 
 perhaps of tyranny and destruction, prompted me to enter 
 the list of claimants for the spoil — ^not that I could make 
 use of the booty, but perhaps to exult in the pleasure of 
 destruction so common to man, and, like the dog in the 
 manger, refuse to others the food which I myself could only 
 loathe. Towards the majority of animals I have a strong 
 feeling of kindness, amounting to love, particularly if 
 they be of a timid disposition ; but for the bloated snake or 
 scaly crocodile, the antipathy which is excited can only 
 be appeased by their destruction. Giving way to these 
 sensations, I raised my heavy rifle, glanced quickly and 
 steadily along its unerring barrels, and a dull "thud" 
 answered as an echo to the report. The large, savage 
 eyeball was my target, and the missive sped true to the 
 aim. A few convulsive, spasmodic quivers were the 
 result, and the gorged terror of the miasmatic lagoon lay 
 helpless, in turn to become the food of those he had ruled 
 with such tyrant sway during his lifetime. In killing 
 most species of game, I have always felt a qualm at 
 depriving a helpless animal of life, but on this occasion 
 I turned from my handiwork weU satisfied with my 
 performance. Towards night, I, on my return, visited the 
 
126 
 
 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 spot, and dozens were feeding now where formerly there 
 had only heen one. The buffalo had almost totally 
 disappeared, and a large inroad had been made upon the 
 alligator, several of whose children and brothers, with 
 bloody tusks, were tearing away at his vitals. As I 
 returned towards my temporary forest bivouac, I, 
 moralising, thought of the correctness of the proverb, 
 Hodie, miM, eras tibi, which, not inappropriately, is 
 inscribed upon the gateway to the graveyard in the 
 Happy Valley at Hong-Kong. 
 

 
 
 
 
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 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 CATCHING A SHARK. 
 
 AGAIN I am at sea, and the blue line of coast that 
 marks faintly the northern distance is aH I expect 
 to see of India Proper for at least some time to come. 
 
 Off to the eastward, with her sails idly flapping in the 
 wind, lies one of the piolate brigs. Staunch crafts are 
 they, and make as good sailors as ever trod a deck, or laid 
 their ship to in a cyclone. All down the Bay of Bengal 
 the weather continued fine — too fine, in fact, to suit those 
 in a hurry. Each day, consequently, was a repetition of 
 its predecessor; eating, sleeping, and smoking occupying 
 the greatest portion of our time. At length the welcome 
 cry of land was heard ; the landsmen strained their eyes to 
 see it, and wished it were closer; the sailors distinctly 
 made it out, and wished it farther off. At length a little 
 fun took place — fun which had the effect of sweetening 
 some of our tempers, which were beginning to become 
 soured. 
 
128 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 People exMbit their true dispositions, without the 
 faintest attempt at disguise, when they have been a few 
 months at sea. Often those who have borne the character 
 of being the jolliest, kindest, and most obliging comrades 
 turn fractious and snappish under the ordeal of a long 
 sea-voyage, unable even to answer a civil question without 
 a display of iU-humour. 
 
 I once sailed in a troop-ship round the Cape of Good 
 Hope. The passage was a long one, and there was 
 more bickering and squabbling than I ever previously 
 experienced in a similar length of time. Even the ladies, 
 of whom we had over a dozen on board, followed the evil 
 example of the sterner sex, and scarcely were on speaking 
 terms with each other when the anchor was dropped 
 in port. 
 
 Any excitement, therefore, on board ship that breaks 
 the monotony of a sea-voyage is most acceptable. 
 
 A day or two after we had made the coast of Sumatra, 
 and as we were approaching the Straits of Sunda, a 
 shark was seen following in the wake of the troop-ship. 
 Numerous were the attempts made to capture him, but the 
 fish was either too well fed or too dainty to take the most 
 tempting bait. Fowl, turtle, pork, and beef were alternately 
 substituted as lures, but without avail. Doubtless there 
 were so many tit-bits falling from the ship on which 
 Mr. Shark could regale, that he did not care to lay hold of 
 anything attached to hook or line. The majority on board, 
 with the exception of myself, gave up the task as useless. 
 I planned and plotted his capture, for the specimen was of 
 
Catching a Shark. 129 
 
 a rare variety ; but I was long without success. Tliere he 
 remained day after day, either close up to the rudder or 
 under either of the ship's quarters. The weather was fine, 
 the sea smooth as glass, and every movement of his 
 fins or tail was perfectly apparent to those looking at him 
 from the deck. 
 
 In rummaging over some old effects, I found gimp and 
 hooks, originally intended for Lough Corrib pike. I knew 
 the tackle to be strong, and with it I resolved to make one 
 more essay for the capture of our grim attendant. 
 
 That day I was on duty; and as our commanding officer, 
 one of the best-hearted men breathing, but at the same 
 time a strict disciplinarian, always insisted on the officer 
 on duty remaining on deck during dinner, I thought that 
 while all were below and everything was quiet the 
 opportunity should be taken, and that the result would 
 probably be more successful. 
 
 With a nice little piece of fat pork about the size of a 
 walnut for bait, over went my tackle. The vessel had 
 scarcely steerage way, and slowly I paid oflF line. The 
 shark was at his accustomed place. He saw the attraction, 
 slowly swam to it, carefully surveyed it, and again 
 returned to his post. It was of no use. Again and 
 again it was dropped under his nose. He had seen 
 enough, and rejected with scorn the imposition. 
 
 I had thoroughly made up my mind that all chance 
 of success was over, and commenced in consequence 
 throwing overboard the remainder of my bait, the first 
 piece of which he took gingerly, the second with 
 
130 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 more avidity, and the third with considerable energy. 
 Shakspere's remark, that "increase of appetite doth grow 
 with what it feeds on," was evidently being verified. 
 I sent for a fresh supply of pork. Over a dozen morsels 
 had been supplied to the shark, and his timidity had 
 vanished; for ere the ripples that succeeded the splash 
 of their descent had enlarged to the circumference of a 
 foot, the honne louche was seized and pouched. 
 
 Again I resorted to my line, shortening it, so that the 
 bait alone would strike the water. Overboard it went. 
 The savage was sold, and in a moment I had him fast. 
 What a struggle was his first effort on finding himself 
 hooked ! He remained on th6 surface, and beat the water 
 into foam. At length, finding this mode of procedure 
 useless, with a swirl of the tail, he went downwards 
 almost perpendicularly, till he was lost to sight, and the 
 strain on the line alone told that the game was still on. 
 My tackle was too light to put a strong check on. 
 However, I had plenty of line, so determined to play my 
 fish in the thoroughly orthodox way. Well, I paid off to 
 him till I had almost all my line overboard. Despair 
 had all but seized me, for well I knew if compelled to put 
 on a stop that the tackle must break, and my hoped-for 
 triumph be quashed ; but in the very nick of time — not 
 one moment too soon — the quarry turned, and I had the 
 intense satisfaction of feeling that but for some unseen 
 accident I should secure my prize. By this time the 
 poop-deck was crowded. Among the officers were several 
 fishermen. All gave advice ; but remembering the proverb 
 
Catching a Shark. 131 
 
 of " too many cooks," I did what had previously enabled 
 me to land many a noble salmon. At length my fish 
 was brought alongside; for after the run, like a coward, 
 he gave up the battle. The first mate stood in the 
 mizen-chains, harpoon in hand, and, as opportunity 
 presented itself, let drive his missile with well-directed 
 aim; but the harpoon was blunt, and glanced off, with 
 the effect of instilling fresh energy into the victim. The 
 result of this mishap was that all my labours had to be 
 begun again, and the shark fought this second battle 
 with greater obstinacy than the first. Again and again 
 I gave and took in line. My foe had been too badly 
 treated when previously alongside to be brought into the 
 same position without resistance. At least ten minutes 
 of this give-and-take business must have passed, when 
 a rope, with a noose formed by a running bowline knot, 
 was passed down the line. With a little manoeuvring 
 it was coaxed over the shark's head; by degrees farther 
 backwards, till the dorsal fin was reached, when a quick 
 jerk closed the slip, and the prey was safe from escape. 
 The line was now passed through a block, and a dozen 
 stalwart grenadiers trolled the struggling scoundrel aloft, 
 and ultimately dropped him on deck. The cook, a black 
 man — all ships' cooks appear to be black — stood by, 
 chopper in hand. A grin suffused his ebony countenance ; 
 pleasure was expressed in every feature of his face; his 
 mouth opened from ear to ear; his dusky eyes rolled 
 about with delight ; it was evident to all that he regarded 
 the present opportunity as one for distinction. The 
 
132 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 wrigglings of the shark had scarcely ceased, when forward 
 rushed Sambo to cut off his tail. However, "man 
 proposes, God disposes." His foot slipped, and he got 
 such a whack from the caudal appendage of the struggler 
 as, doubtless, he stiU remembers well. The darkey was 
 ready, however. He made a second attempt, which was 
 successful. 
 
 On opening the shark's stomach, a most extraordinary 
 collection of articles was found — pieces of glass, cloth, a 
 portion of a book, and several fowls' heads; the latter, 
 no doubt, the craniums of the unfortunates who had 
 furnished our mess with curry or spatch-cock. On 
 measurement, it was found that this fish was eight feet 
 long — a size attained by very few of this particular 
 species. 
 
 The vessel on which this little episode occurred, and 
 on which I enjoyed many happy hours, in a subsequent 
 voyage, a year or two afterwards, disappeared — ^probably 
 foundered. To this day nothing has ever been heard 
 of her. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 TRICKING AN ALLIGATOE. 
 
 HOW was that alligator caught ? Perhaps my readers 
 as well as the friend who asked me this question 
 would like to know, for he was by odds the largest 
 with which I have ever become on intimate terms. 
 
 To my knowledge a more picturesque and productive 
 island than Java does not exist, and although situated 
 close ■ to the equator, it is both healthy and cool. The 
 Dutch are its possessors, and well they control and 
 manage the natives and the productions. The Straits of 
 Sunda form the northern boundary of this colony of 
 Holland, and separate it from Sumatra. For ships from 
 the westward of the Cape of Good Hope, and bound 
 farther to the East, these straits are generally selected 
 as the route to pass through the Malay Archipelago. 
 I had come from the West. Our passage had been tedious 
 and rough, and our vessel wanted provisions, water, and 
 repairs; so at the picturesque village of Anjer, in Java, 
 
134 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 and on the Straits of Sunda, we dropped anchor and 
 remamed for some days. 
 
 Close to where we were moored was the place from 
 whence ships' crews obtain water, a small stream 
 emptying itself into a miniature bay. This spot had 
 long been haunted by an immense alligator, and although 
 innumerable devices had been practised to accomplish 
 his capture, all had turned out unsuccessful. Scarcely a 
 week passed that some depredation was not committed 
 by this brute. At one time a child was a victim, next 
 a washerwoman, and so crafty had the villain become, that 
 it was almost impossible for those who from necessity 
 ' frequented the stream for the purpose of washing, to 
 escape his formidable jaws. 
 
 The day previous to my arrival another victim had 
 been added to the already formidable list, and this 
 quiet village was in as great a state of excitement as a 
 Hindoo hamlet would be when a man-eating tiger is 
 known to have taken up his residence in a neighbouring 
 ravine. 
 
 Having called upon the commandant, a splendid 
 specimen of Dutch naval officers, than whom no better 
 are to be found, I was, after the customary courtesies, 
 honoured by an invitation to his table — a pleasure I was 
 not backward to avail myself of, for I had long become 
 disgusted with the usual ship's salt rations, and the 
 prospect of a good feed on fresh meat, and doubtless 
 vegetables, was a temptation of no ordinary character. 
 Moreover, the society of a gentleman traveller, who had 
 
Tricking an Alligator. 135 
 
 probaMy buffeted over half the earth, could not fail in 
 assisting time to fly both rapidly and pleasantly. 
 
 A more genial host I have seldom met, or one better 
 qualified to relate his experiences ; and when the cheroots 
 and joss-stick were placed upon the table, the entente 
 cordiale between us was thoroughly established. I know 
 not how many bumpers of Bordeaux had been imbibed, 
 when the conversation gradually changed from foreign 
 lands to field sports, and ultimately to this dreaded 
 alligator. The next day was determined on to make 
 another effort for his destruction. The modus operandi 
 was settled, and an unfortunate cur dog was to officiate 
 as bait. Poor bow-wow ! I pitied his lot, but the necessity 
 of the case justified the means employed. 
 
 That evening we sat late, so very late that, in preference 
 to returning to my cabin, I accepted a shakedown, and 
 — although I was considerably startled with my first 
 experience of the gecho* lizard, which, soon after retiring, 
 commenced giving vent to his feelings — I slept as soundly 
 as storm-tossed mariners usually do when first on shore, 
 and, after a long voyage, experience the comfort of clean 
 linen and a wide bed of sufficient length to stretch their 
 
 -'O" 
 
 legs in. 
 
 So soundly did sleep visit me, that I doubt if I ever 
 turned in my bed till the sonorous Chinese gong of the 
 
 * The Geokolidse, or thick-tongued lizards, are common to a great portion 
 of the East. From being harmless they are much encouraged, as they are 
 most destructive to mosquitoes and other insects. 
 
136 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 household summoned me to breakfast, the most enjoyable 
 of all Oriental meals. It is not necessary to discuss the 
 merit of different curries — the one I then ate was by 
 far superior to any I had previously enjoyed — and the 
 mangoes, pineapples, and mangosteens that graced the 
 table were fit delicacies for angels — the mangosteens 
 especially, to which I award the palm over every fruit 
 with which I am acquainted. From the breakfast-table 
 we went to the beach, and arrived just in time to see the 
 attempt to catch Mr. Alligator from throw-off to finish. 
 
 In a proah was the unhappy dog, bound, not hand and 
 foot, but as to predicament similarly situated. Attached 
 to his side was a large shark-hook, filed at the point sharp 
 as a needle. The commandant's appearance was the 
 signal to commence operations, and the Malay crew were 
 not long in gaining the centre of the estuary. With 
 untied legs poor doggy was thrown overboard. Lustily he 
 struck out for shore, and the boat followed at a moderate 
 pace paying out line. The first effort was a failure. The 
 cur gained the shore unhurt, but the cruel capturers were 
 not satisfied. Nolens volens he was again lugged on board, 
 and taken still farther out in the stream. A second time 
 he went overboard with a splash. The former swim had 
 not, apparently, exhausted his energies, for soon but forty 
 or fifty yards separated him from terra firma. AU thought 
 the ruse had failed, and public sympathy was strongly 
 excited in the dog's behalf. A few strokes more and 
 his feet would touch the bottom, when, with a tremendous 
 swirl, fifty times greater than ever fresh-run salmon made 
 
Tricking an Alligator. 137 
 
 at a fly, the water appeared to open, and the swimmer 
 with a howl disappeared. The Malays well knew their 
 work. The boat was kept stationary, and line was paid 
 out. No unnecessary hurry was exhibited, and certainly 
 five minutes elapsed for the prowler to pouch his bait ere 
 a pull was taken on him, and when it was made, it was 
 not of the easy description used to hook a trout, by a 
 simple turn of the wrist — no, the slack was gently 
 recovered, and a strike was administered that would 
 have driven the hook through an inch plank. As luck 
 would have it, it took effect, and the reciprocating jerks 
 that followed were sufficient to dislocate a man's arm or 
 overturn a canoe. Since this I have learned that the 
 success of the project was aU chance — an alligator does 
 not, like a pike, gorge his bait, but tears it to pieces before 
 swallowing. The boatmen, jubilant with their success, 
 soon made for the shore, paying out only sufficient line to 
 retain the necessary strain to keep the hook in its hold. 
 
 Dozens of volunteers were there to receive them. The 
 struggle was long and desperate — the impaled one moment 
 coming to the surface and lashing the water into foam, 
 the next submerging himself, doubtless with the intention 
 of grappling something at the bottom to give him 
 additional powers of resistance. However, all his strength 
 and strategy were unavailing; with shouts and jeers he 
 was dragged up the muddy margin, and at length secured 
 by numerous cords wound round each limb and his 
 powerful taU. 
 
 From the beach he was transferred alive to the 
 
138 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 commandant's garden, where lie was attached to stakes, 
 his limbs being dragged out from under him. An 
 immense fellow he was, eighteen feet long, and more 
 bulky than usual However much I dislike his race and 
 all approximate to it, I must do this one the justice to 
 say that he remained indomitable to the end. 
 
 As my kind host wished to preserve the skin uninjured 
 in order that it might be forwarded to the museum at 
 Amsterdam, poison was selected as the best means of 
 terminating the alligator's existence. A dose of strychnine, 
 sufficiently large to have killed a regiment, was therefore 
 administered, placed in a cavity in a bullock's heart ; but, 
 judging from results, the intended victim had no objection 
 to a repetition of a similar dose. At length a corporal's 
 guard was sent for, and over a dozen shots were fired ere 
 the enemy succumbed. After his demise, I carefully 
 inspected the carcass when it was divested of the skin. 
 The head was so solid and hard that, except in the region 
 of the eye, no ordinary projectile would have done him 
 injury ; the hide, especially along the vertebrae, was also 
 capable of repelling a bullet from a musket, for it was not 
 only hard as horn, but several inches thick. 
 
 Let me say that, while at Java, I enjoyed several days' 
 excellent shooting. About a mile from Anjer, after 
 passing through the cocoa-nut groves that margin the 
 beach, you observe an immense lagoon, well stocked with 
 snipe and wild duck. Of the former the painted species 
 will be found the most abundant. Cranes, egrets, and 
 bitterns are also plentiful, while the neighbouring high 
 
Tricking an Alligator, 139 
 
 grounds swarm with commou and painted quail, and, 
 where timber grows, with countless squirrels. In this 
 lagoon are plenty of alligators, and on the high grounds 
 an abundance of snakes. 
 
 A native wanted my shooting companion and myself to 
 try our skill on the former, but when we were shown 
 his fragile canoe, in which it would be necessary for 
 us to embark in order to insure success, we without further 
 delay declined the polite invitation. One snake that 
 I cut in two with a charge of shot was dissimilar to any 
 I had previously or have since met with. It was over 
 five feet in length, and very thick in proportion ; its fangs 
 were extremely large, the head blunt and flat; while 
 the colour on the back was drab, becoming gradually 
 white as it approached the belly. 
 
 At Anjer I was first introduced to a most delicious 
 beverage — viz., the contents of a decapitated green 
 cocoa-nut, with a proportionate mixture of old Jamaica 
 rum. On a warm day nothing can be more delicious 
 or more insinuating; so take warning if circumstances 
 should place you where it can be enjoyed, for my friend 
 who shot with me, still thirsty and desirous of imbibing 
 more, commenced singing "We won't go home till 
 morning" before we had got our costumes changed 
 preparatory to sitting down to dinner. Next morning he 
 assured me, however, that he was without the vestige of 
 a headache. 
 
CHAPTEE XVII. 
 
 PAST ON A CORAL REEF. 
 
 READEE, have you ever been, during a calm, on board 
 a steam-ship while it threaded the intricacies of 
 coral reefs and shoals that too freq[uently interrupt 
 navigation in a land-locked tropical sea ? Such was once 
 my fate. The weather had been of the brilliant, heated 
 nature that might have been anticipated in the month of 
 December, when the figure that told our latitude was 
 denoted by a unit. The day had been intensely warm — 
 no place or position in cabin or on deck was bearable, 
 and although an awning covered the poop, the appearance 
 of comfort that various attitudes denoted was only an 
 assumption. The destruction of Manilla cheroots and 
 the consumption of cool drinks was frightfully great — 
 both, doubtless, being considered excellent repellents of 
 the heat emanating from a vertical sun. E"ot the faintest 
 ripple that spoke of a puff of wind had darkened the 
 water all through the day; the temperature had been 
 
Fast on a Coral Reef. 141 
 
 stifling, overpoweriag. Even the Lascar portion of the 
 crew appeared to suffer under its influence, and all the 
 ship's company who had duty to perform did it with that 
 apathy that clearly told how little they felt like work, and 
 how distasteful . exertion was under existing circumstances. 
 The sun, at length, disappeared beneath the horizon, 
 amid all the glories of a tropical sunset; nor was his 
 disappearance regarded with regret, all hoping that with 
 darkness a mitigation of heat would take place. Nor 
 were our hopes disappointed, for ere the last day-watch 
 terminated, an occasional breath of air reanimated all, 
 and gave us hopes of a speedy termination to our 
 sufferings. Still the water looked as if oil had been 
 poured over it, so calm and smooth was its surface; 
 and when a glorious full moon arose, the coast of a 
 neighbouring island on one side, distant about two miles, 
 and that of a smaller, faintly seen because so far off, 
 were all the land to be seen. Who that has ever travelled 
 through the Malay Archipelago can forget the dense 
 tropical verdure that lines the shores of the numerous 
 islands; the graceful palms waving in profusion to the 
 water's edge ; the rarified, clear sky, and the transparent 
 blue water! 
 
 Soon after eight bells (midnight) I went round my 
 sentries, and, finding all correct, retired to my berth with 
 the hope of sleeping. Of course, long ere this hour, lights 
 had been extinguished, and the important ceremony of 
 undressing was therefore being performed in the dark, 
 when a tremendous thump, which threw me off my feet. 
 
I'i2 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 and nearly forced me through the bulkhead, followed 
 by a crashing noise, intermingled with abundant orders, 
 and exclamations from the officer and watch on deck, 
 announced that the ship was either on a reef or on shore. 
 Catching up those articles of apparel which came first, 
 I was on deck in a moment. Orders were being issued 
 for the engines to be reversed; up each hatchway 
 swarmed my soldiers. With quickest steps the crew 
 rushed about performing various services, while the 
 captain, in a state of frenzy, appeared ubiquitous, and 
 our noble vessel, instead of being on a horizontal keel, 
 had her stem stuck up in the air as if star-gazing, while 
 her stern was correspondingly depressed. One glance told 
 the story. We were on a coral reef, hard and fast, and 
 our prospect of getting off uninjured entirely depended 
 on the sea remaining calm. Without confusion the 
 soldiers fell into their respective places, ready to act in 
 whatever capacity their services might be required — such 
 being the result of discipline and education ! For coolness 
 and courage in the hour of danger, I wUl back my 
 countrymen by long odds against any others in the world. 
 Fortunately the steam-ship had only been going at 
 half-speed, or our situation would have been dangerous 
 in the extreme — as it was, our grip of the reef was so 
 strong, that the reversed engines under a full head of 
 steam failed to release us. Shifting cargo, so as to change 
 the trim of the ship, was next adopted, but without 
 avail. Anchors afterwards were got out astern, and the 
 capstans manned, but with no better success. If the 
 
Fast on a Coral Reef. 143 
 
 long-wished-for breeze were now to spring up, in an hour 
 or two our temporary home would be in pieces. With 
 reluctance, orders were given for the boats to be prepared 
 for sea. Stewards hurried about looking after stores and 
 water-breakers, while the junior officers examined oars 
 and thole-pins. Of course, as long as the vessel remained 
 together, we intended sticking to her, but in case of 
 symptoms of dissolution, then a boat excursion of several 
 hundred miles was our only alternative. JSTo one with 
 a particle of feeling could help commiserating our captain. 
 He was a young man — this was his first voyage in 
 command, and he loved his ship as aU good sailors love 
 a noble vessel. Moreover, it was not only the loss of the 
 craft and all his personal effects which he would sustain, 
 but his reputation as a navigator and skill as a seaman 
 would suffer a blemish that perhaps years of future good 
 conduct would not erase. So far, we had only been 
 looking at the dark side; however, it is well to be 
 prepared for contingencies, although on this occasion they 
 did not- occur. The traffic on deck was observed to 
 impart a tremulous motion to the ship — could this but be 
 increased, her hold of the coral reef would be lessened. 
 So the captain thought, and so did others. " Come, 
 my lads," I called to my men, "fall in along the 
 bulwarks." With alacrity the soldiers obeyed. "Fours 
 deep — close on your centre — quick march — double," 
 immediately followed ; and thus, forming the men into a 
 solid mass, they were trotted across decks, the engines 
 at .the same time being reversed under a full head of 
 
144 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 steam. " By Jove ! — she moves ! — ^keep up the tramp ! — 
 well done," for slowly at first, but with gradually 
 increasing pace, the ship commenced to slide; when, 
 gaining velocity, backwards she shot afloat upon her 
 watery home. Some anxiety was felt as to the injury 
 she might have suffered, but the carpenter put this at 
 rest, for having sounded the well, he reported that no 
 leak had been sprung. The coral reef on which we had 
 struck was not marked on our charts. In appearance it 
 resembled a huge mushroom, with the upper portion 
 within a few feet of the surface of the water. With 
 great caution and under half-speed we proceeded to the 
 nearest port, where divers were employed to inspect the 
 ship's bottom, but all the injury she had suffered was the 
 loss of a few sheets of copper, and the carrying away 
 of a portion of her fore foot. The examination and the 
 performing of some necessary repairs caused, however, 
 a delay of several days, the very thing I desired most, for 
 on my previous visit to this beautiful settlement my stay 
 was so contracted, that I had not half the time I wished 
 in which to visit the surrounding neighbourhood — so 
 productive of food for the naturalist. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 A BATTLE IN A BILLIARD-KOOM. 
 
 WHO that has visited Singapore can forget the pretty 
 town, the magnificent tropical vegetation, the 
 numerous islands, and the shipping of every rig and 
 nationality? The costumes here to a European's eye 
 are as quaint as they are numerous. The Tartar and 
 Chinaman, Hindoo and Parsee, Malay and Arab, are all to 
 be found, making as great a Babel of the market-place as 
 that of Gibraltar on a Sunday morning. But although 
 these sights made a strong impression, a little episode in 
 which I played the part of principal left an impression on 
 my mind never to be forgotten. 
 
 I had arrived at Singapore from Hong-Kong in charge 
 of invalids. The ship was ordered to the new harbour to 
 take in coals, and I found myself with an abundance of 
 spare time and a disposition for wandering. At last the 
 day for our departure approached. I bade adieu to new 
 acquaintances, and I had arranged with an old and tried 
 
146 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 friend to meet for perhaps the last time and spend our 
 final evening together at the billiard-rooms attached to the 
 Esperanza Hotel. At half-past ten I dropped into the 
 place of rendezvous ; the room was unoccupied, except by a 
 Chinese marker and a stranger, who lay apparently asleep 
 on one of the benches. Now this billiard-room was an 
 immense place. I think it contained eight or ten tables, 
 with abundance of space for several others. When I 
 entered, the marker was covering up his table, but on my 
 stating my desire to play, and thus keep the place open 
 till my friend arrived, the cover was removed and a game 
 commenced. 
 
 My boyish days, except when at school, were all spent 
 in a barrack. Was it, then, to be wondered at that 
 single-stick and foils had become amusements at which 
 I was an adept? In fact, few could excel me in either 
 of these pastimes ; and, conscious of my science, I took 
 pleasure in practice whenever opportunity occurred. Well 
 that it. was so, for but for that skill I should not now be 
 alive to narrate what I am about to teU. 
 
 Our game proceeded without interruption till the 
 Chinaman had scored forty-seven and I forty-eight. 
 Then my antagonist marked three more and proclaimed 
 himself victor. Previous to this I had been in the habit 
 of playing a game of sixty-three points, and on stating 
 this, as well as my belief that, if the other thirteen points 
 were added, I could with facility win, the marker was 
 satisfied to continue the game, provided I agreed to pay 
 whether I lost or won. 
 
A Battle in a Billiard-Room. 147 
 
 But this arrangement was not permitted to be put in 
 execution, for the unknown who slept upon the bench 
 sprang from his seat, and, rushing towards me, reviled 
 me in the grossest language as a swindler and a cheat. 
 It was of no use trying to play, for, without cessation, an 
 entire vocabulary of vituperation was hurled at me. 
 
 Flesh and blood may be over-taxed, and at length my 
 patience gave way, and my tongue became loosed. "• You 
 black son of a sea-cook, sit down, or, if you interrupt me 
 
 again, I'll !" &c., &c., I exclaimed. " What you call 
 
 me — a black son of a sea-cook? You repeat it, if you 
 dare." I did so. While I was repeating my words, he 
 aimed a blow at me, and I parried. Again he struck at 
 me, with no better results. A third time the attempt was 
 made, and, by way of change, I added to the programme 
 by making a feint with my left hand, knocking my 
 adversary down with the right. So far I had avoided 
 a contest; now I was in for it. Soon the foe was on 
 his feet; and twice more I staggered him, by a straight 
 hit from the elbow. Tinding that the game was decidedly 
 adverse to him, he gathered himself together, rushed to 
 the door of the room, and sounded a war-whoop. A few 
 moments only elapsed before it was answered, and in 
 rushed four Chinamen. They all made for the cue-rack, 
 and each grasped a weapon. I saw from their manner 
 that mischief was intended; so, breaking the cue I had 
 played with through the centre, and doubling my shell- 
 jacket around my arm, I retreated into a corner, for 
 my foes were between me and the door. 
 
148 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 From tlie manner and appearance of my antagonists, 
 I felt that life depended upon my skill and pluck. Wlio 
 under sucli circumstances would be such a craven as to 
 succumb so long as he had a breath left in him or power to 
 raise his hand ? Even a cornered rat will fight. So, little 
 credit is due to me for making as long and desperate 
 a resistance as was in my power. With my back in a 
 corner I quietly waited the issue. With a rush my foes 
 came at me, but my determined appearance and position 
 caused them momentarily to recoil. Chinamen are 
 cowards, the veriest of curs. I know them well, and 
 have always found them so. The prospect of resistance, 
 even with such tremendous odds in their favour, would 
 have caused them to decline the contest ; but the viUain— 
 he whom I struck — urged them on, and fierce and fast 
 became the battle. Their numbers and the length of 
 their weapons impeded them. The position I had selected 
 harassed and crowded the assailants together, and for 
 some minutes I successfully parried all blows, returning 
 the compliment when opportunity offered. How long 
 this lasted it would be impossible to say correctly. At 
 length the violence of my exertions commenced to teU. 
 Already my left arm, which I had used as a guard, 
 dropped helpless by my side; blood from several cuts 
 coursed down my face, and once I had been brought to 
 my knees. In a moment I decided to try and fight 
 my way through them. An opportunity immediately 
 afterwards occurred. The instigator was directly in my 
 front, concentrating all his strength for a blow. I received 
 
A Battle in a Billiard- Room. 149 
 
 it on my broken cue, so close to his hand that the force 
 of the stroke disarmed him. With the velocity of thought 
 I recovered and struck him at the base of the ear, felling 
 him to the ground. With a rush I sprang over his 
 prostrate figure; few of the blows aimed at me took 
 effect, and with the greatest speed I could summon I 
 rushed out of the building. My speed of foot carried 
 me away from the ruck. Only one was able to keep 
 pace; and as I passed down the covered way which 
 connected the biUiard-room with the hotel, I watched 
 my chance, wheeled sharply round, and gave him a blow 
 across the cranium which doubtless to this day has left 
 a mark. In the hotel all had retired to rest; doors and 
 windows stood open, after the manner of the East; so 
 seeing no one, I passed on and made for the Masonic 
 Arms, a smaller house, where two friends were staying 
 — the one a surgeon in our army. Dr. Lewin; the other 
 a lieutenant of a Bengal regiment of cavalry, by name 
 Leward. On reaching this establishment my strength 
 failed me, and the landlord (once boatswain to Eajah 
 Brooke's yacht) assisted me to a chair. Soon the surgeon 
 came to me, a glass of brandy and water recalled my 
 scattered senses, and eight or ten stitches in different 
 portions of my head drew the various contused and broken 
 wounds together. When I narrated to Lewin what had 
 taken place, he advised me to go to the magistrate, and 
 volunteered to accompany me. He was found at his post 
 of duty, and within a few minutes a posse of police, with 
 the gallant surgeon and myself at their head, might have 
 
150 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 been seen retufning to the battle-field. You must not 
 imagine that I walked. No, I was far too weak for that ; 
 but a comfortable Chinese chair, borne by two coolies, 
 performed the duty of conveyance. For some time we 
 unsuccessfully searched for the would-be assassins. At 
 length the whole party were captured in an outhouse, 
 firmly secured, and marched off to the lock-up. Next 
 morning I had to attend the police court. When the 
 prisoners were produced, none but those who witnessed 
 their appearance could possibly believe that one man 
 could inflict such injury on six. The instigator (a South 
 American Spaniard) had a fearful wound; the others 
 were all more or less contused or cut; and when, 
 unwashed and dirty, they were ranged in the dock, they 
 almost elicited pity, from their woe-begone and haggard 
 appearance. The sentences passed upon them all were 
 adequate to their deserts, and the billiard-room was 
 temporarily closed. 
 
 That the above is true there are abundant witnesses 
 to prove. I do not t6ll it as a proof of my courage, but 
 as a reason that all should study the art of self-defence, 
 for, if you are a traveller, you know not at what hour 
 your skill may be called in to save your life. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 CHASED BY A BUFFALO. 
 
 NOT more than ten miles inland from Hong-Kong 
 the sportsman reaches the margin of Meer's Bay. 
 From the garrison, looking across to Kowloon, nothing 
 but the straggling city of that name, backed by ranges of 
 sterile sunburnt hUls, greets the vision ; but ascend to the 
 summit of these ridges — no easy matter — and the sterility 
 has fled, the placid waters of Me'er's Bay lie off some 
 miles beneath, scattered villages dot its margin, while 
 numerous woods, instead of stunted brush, are to be 
 seen on every side. The repose and picturesqueness of 
 this scene has often delighted me, for the water is blue 
 and pellucid, the vegetation brilliantly green, and the 
 inhabitants' domiciles, at a distance, appear white as 
 snow — a pleasant contrast to the surrounding foliage. 
 From this bay branch off in every direction numerous 
 valleys, many of which are cultivated, rice being 
 
152 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 predominant in the lower ground, tea and pine -apples 
 in the more elevated situations. 
 
 I had succeeded in obtaining leave of absence for a 
 week, and so early a start had my companions and myself 
 made on the occasion referred to, that ere the sun had 
 risen, we — for our party consisted of four sportsmen 
 and numerous coolies — were over the Kowloon ridge, 
 and as the day advanced, and the mists gradually 
 evaporated, we looked forward with much pleasure to our 
 holiday and prospects of amusement. 
 
 To describe my friends is necessary. Two were 
 commonplace mortals, at least their arms and legs were 
 all in the right places; but the third — well, he was not 
 deformed, but he was the shortest and stoutest man that 
 ever gloried in the use of dog and gun, and he did glory 
 in it. It mattered not how hot the day was, how steep 
 the hills, how boggy the paddy fields, how stiff the brush 
 — on, on he would toil, from morning to night; neither 
 did it signify how many birds he missed — and they 
 were numerous; "en avant" was always his watchword, 
 and the equanimity of his temper ever remained, up to 
 this excursion, undisturbed. He was, in fact, a jolly 
 companion, a thoroughly good fellow, the life and soul of 
 every party he attached himself to, and, moreover, a man 
 who had seen much of the world and profited by it — one 
 whom, once known, never could be forgotten. But he was 
 a foreigner, and, like foreigners, had some ideas which did 
 not exactly tally with our own. Among others was 
 his love of display. Coats with innumerable pockets; 
 
Chased by a Buffalo. 153 
 
 powder-flasks and shot-pouches of the newest and most 
 awkward shapes, suspended by cords of green and red, 
 terminating with tassels, hung about his fully-developed 
 person; while drinking-flasks, game-bags, and other 
 additions dangled wherever they could be stuck. 
 
 It mattered not how hot it was — and Southern China 
 is not proverbial for coolness — my stout friend would 
 sooner part with his life, or suffer a stroke of coup de soleil, 
 than dismantle himself of one of these playthings. Often 
 have I seen him toiling up the side of a hill, every pore 
 of his skin in active operation, with his collar closed to 
 the throat, while we were dressed in the lightest garb. 
 
 To this day I believe he considered that game demanded 
 this honour and self-sacrifice, that the loss of comfort 
 was necessary to success, and that unless he retained aU 
 these cockneyfied addenda, he would be unable to hold his 
 gun straight or pull his triggers. 
 
 Well, the ground we had to get over was traversed, 
 and from our noonday halting-place we determined to 
 commence operations by beating a sparse cover, known 
 invariably to contain pheasants. For over an hour we 
 were unsuccessful. A few birds were seen, but were so 
 wild that the greatest advocate for long shots would not 
 have dreamt of throwing away a charge after them. 
 However, in a pine-apple grove at the top of a valley better 
 results were anticipated. In this we were not mistaken, 
 for the moment we reached its margin, not fewer than a 
 dozen birds "flushed," each taking wing at the same 
 moment (in fact, just like a covey of partridge early in the 
 
154 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 season), and out of their ranks we tumbled over three. 
 The remainder were marked down on the slope of a hill 
 a few hundred yards distant, where were feeding half-a- 
 dozen water-buffaloes, the beast of draught always 
 employed here for ploughing heavy, wet rice-lands. 
 
 The dogs were whistled up by our stout friend, to whom 
 they belonged ; the coolies were called from cover, and with 
 confident hopes of success we started for the marked birds. 
 Off went the brace of pointers through the long, coarse 
 grass, when their master waved his hand as a signal that 
 their services were again required. Forward we advanced 
 in line. Backwards and forwards the dogs quartered their 
 ground, with nothing to interrupt their progress, except 
 here and there an occasional dwarf pine. Wow these trees 
 were not above fifty feet high, were very sparse of limbs 
 except at the summit, and the interval between each tree 
 was probably over one hundred yards. We advanced in 
 skirmishing order. By this time the dogs had commenced 
 to wind their game, when the buffaloes closed on their 
 centre, tossed up their heads, sniffed the air, and pawed 
 the ground. Such conduct was not to be mistaken. Their 
 intentions were evidently hostile, nor were we long kept 
 in suspense as to their modus operandi. The patriarch of 
 the drove, a giant old bull, stepped to the front, glorious in 
 his hairless, mud-baked coat, and advanced with measured 
 steps upon the now standing pointers. For their safety 
 we had no fear, for the water-buffalo is not fleet, and is 
 very awkward; but that the brutes would "flush" our 
 game ere we were within shooting distance amounted to a 
 
Chased by a Buffalo. 155 
 
 certainty. It was of no use hallooing or gesticulating. 
 Onward came the foe ; the dogs looked uneasy, commenced 
 to waver, and ultimately, as the pheasants flushed, 
 completely wheeled to the right-about and fled, followed 
 by the bull at his best pace. Tor some minutes 
 the pointers satisfied themselves by keeping sufficiently 
 in advance of their pursuer to avoid being run over, 
 but their patience became so thoroughly taxed, that 
 as a last resource they sought their joUy stout owner for 
 protection. With despair written on our friend's 
 countenance, he exhausted his vocabulary of terms to 
 drive his dogs from him. All was of no avail, and worse 
 than that, the huge, awkward buffalo changed from the 
 former objects of its ire and came straight at their owner. 
 For a moment my friend hesitated. Only for a moment 
 did he appear in doubt, when, suddenly spinning round, 
 he bolted down hill for the nearest tree with all the 
 velocity and impetus that his legs and weight could 
 command, closely followed by his cloven-footed foe. 
 
 Never to this day have I seen a more ludicrous scene. 
 If I should live to the age of Methuselah, never shall I see 
 one again ; and the rest of our party were possessed of the 
 same opinion. I do not believe, even supposing the 
 situation had been one of the most imminent danger, either 
 of us, from the immoderate fit of laughter with which we 
 were seized, could have gone to his assistance. But such a 
 race between two welter weights could not last long. The 
 tree was reached, and, clasping its stem with his right hand, 
 our friend drew himself round and behind it with the false 
 
156 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 hope that the pursuer would pass onwards. Mr. Buffalo, 
 it is true, overshot his mark, and had to go some distance 
 before he could pull up, but he was not thus to be cheated, 
 so came back to the pursuit with more measured and 
 cautious steps. For almost a minute each surveyed the 
 other. Ten yards did not intervene between them. First 
 from one side of the tree, then from the other, a stare was 
 given, when again down went the buU's head, and with 
 tail straight on end he re-dashed at his intended victim. 
 Fast and furious became the strife, round aS3^ round the 
 tree our friend most agilely skipped, while the bull, 
 unwieldy from his great length, was frequently nearly 
 overrun_by our stout but active companion. Half-a-dozen, 
 possibly more, evolutions of this rotary description were 
 accomplished, when, as if by mutual consent, both caUed 
 a halt, perfectly blown from the violence of the exercise. 
 StiU our friend had not lost his voice. Between every gasp 
 for air he roared vociferously, first at the buU, then at the 
 dogs, and lastly at our unfeeling selves for not coming to 
 his aid. But he had to be careful ; the eyes of the pursuer 
 were upon him ; time was again about to be called as up, 
 and the pursued had better retain his breath rather than 
 waste it in anathemas. Again the foe's head was lowered, 
 again the demon of destruction took possession of him, 
 and the activity of our now profusely warm friend was put 
 to a further ordeal. Fancy any one chased round a tree 
 by an ordinary cow — if the pursued was not in imminent 
 danger, the scene would be ludicrous; but the two 
 principals, as on this occasion, were remarkable for their 
 
Chased by a Buffalo. 157 
 
 Tinwieldiness and excessively low-comedy appearance; 
 surely, therefore, forgiveness can be found for our apparent 
 want of feeling in indulging in laughter. The spinning 
 round a second time ceased, each surveyed the other with 
 increasing hate, while want of breath from fatigue was 
 apparent. The tactics now were altered : evidently the 
 bull had projected a deep plot of vengeance, but our 
 companion was about to practise a deeper. Each looked 
 at the other from either side of the tree — a kind of 
 bo-peep amusement undertaken by each to take the other 
 at a disadvantage. This halt restored my friend's 
 exhausted wind, and with its return his tongue was again 
 loosened. The previously unused gun, which had been 
 retained in his left hand apparently forgotten, was called 
 on for aid ; an opportunity to use it as desired presented 
 itself, and at less than ten yards the centre of the foe's tail 
 was made the target. The aim was just such as was 
 req[uired, the caudal appendage was nearly severed, and 
 the bull, thoroughly discomfited, took to his heels and fled, 
 bellowing with pain and wrath, down the face of the hill, 
 as quick as his short club-looking legs would go, and 
 followed by both dogs, now giving tongue in pursuit like a 
 brace of beagles. The wind-up was as ludicrous as the 
 episode, and, roUing in the grass, all three of us only 
 laughed the louder as our friend joined us and hurled at 
 our devoted heads every imprecation, in Dutch and 
 English, known to him. Shoot with us, or be our 
 companion again, he never would ; so, indignant and sulky, 
 he left for our place of rendezvous. But at night, when 
 
158 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 we rejoined him with a tolerably large bag over a glass of 
 generous wine, his wrath became appeased to such an 
 extent, that his jolly laugh might have been heard 
 resounding longest and loudest at the idea of the 
 ridiculous appearance he must have cut, and the 
 amusement he afforded his friends. 
 
 Strange to say, ere we sat down to dinner, an old 
 Chinese woman, leading the identical bull, now 'thoroughly 
 submissive and crestfallen, visited our quarters, and 
 importuned a cumshaw for the harm her brute had suffered. 
 This was really adding insult to injury, and I almost 
 expected to see our jolly friend have a fit of apoplexy, so 
 great was bis wrath and indignation at such a preposterous 
 demand upon his purse. 
 
 In the Happy Valley at Hong-Kong now sleeps the 
 subject of this episode, among hundreds of Europeans, all 
 premature victims to the treachery of a Southern Chinese 
 climate. May the sod lie lightly on them all! for, as a 
 rule, better and more hospitable people than the merchants 
 of this distant colony are nowhere to be found. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 AMONG CHINESE PIRATES. 
 
 ON the seaboard side of the island of Hong-Kong is 
 situated a village of considerable magnitude, called by 
 the English, Stanley, by the Chinese, Chuckchoo. Close 
 by, on an eminence overlooking the place, is a barrack, 
 more intended for a sanitarium than a stronghold. 
 Victoria, the capital, it is true, is not possessed of much 
 attraction, but life at Stanley was complete isolation. 
 The majority of of&cers who had been Stationed there had 
 either become drunkards or gamblers, or, not unfrequently, 
 prematurely went to an early grave. 
 
 Well, what do you suppose my feeling was when, one 
 evening, while dressing for mess, the orderly corporal of 
 my company shoved the order-book in my hand, in which 
 I saw myself detailed to proceed on the morrow to take 
 command of this wretched place? Disgust in the most 
 superlative sense. 
 
 Soon I was en route. The sail round the south side of 
 
160 Advenhires in many Lands. 
 
 the island of Hong-Kong is very pretty. The hills 
 certainly are sterile, hut their outlines are bold and grand, 
 while the water, for clearness and brilliancy of colouring, 
 can most favourably compare with the ever-lauded 
 Mediterranean. About three hours' voyage landed me 
 at my destination, where I was greeted by my predecessor 
 and the temporarily attached assistant surgeon. Let me 
 describe the latter. He was about six feet four in height, 
 with the frame of a Hercules, and an eye dark as 
 the raven's wing, flashing with courage and intelligence 
 whenever he spoke. A finer or nobler specimen of 
 a Highlander I never saw; a more true, brave, and 
 generous-hearted friend I never met. I became an inmate 
 of his bungalow till my own was put in order, and on the 
 first night, as we discussed our late dinner, I found there 
 was a bond of sympathy between us that was calculated 
 to ripen into a lasting friendship. What was that bond ? 
 you wiU ask. Why, we were both ardently devoted to 
 the sports of the field, and the use of the gentle, delicate 
 fly-rod. For a couple of weeks time sped on rapid wing. 
 Each had so much to tell of his favourite pursuit, that 
 night after night, ay, well on into the small hours, we 
 would sit on the bungalow verandah in our loblolly chairs, 
 encased in panjamas, smoking cheroots and sipping weak 
 brandy-pawnee, spinning or listening to each other's yarns. 
 Such was our occupation. The midnight relief had just 
 marched past, and the cheery notes of the distant sentries 
 were sounding the musical chant of " All's well," when B. 
 turned abruptly to me with the enquiry, " Have you ever 
 
Among Chinese Pirates. 161 
 
 been to Lemma Island?" On my answering in the 
 negative, he continued, " Then there we will go to-morrow, 
 if the weather is favourable; though it's a long pull 
 from here, the trip is worth the trouble, for I can show 
 you a small snipe marsh where I have twice obtained four 
 or five couple of long-bills." A bargain was struck on the 
 spot. A day's change, at least, was a treat, and although 
 a general order existed that both should not leave the 
 detachment together, we laughed at the distant prospect 
 of courts-martial, and determined with one accord to 
 accept all risks. 
 
 After we had discussed our chutney and curried prawns 
 at the morrow's breakfast, the fast boat was announced as 
 waiting. So, whistling my dear and ever-true pointer 
 Saneho to my heels — B. armed with a shot-gun, I with a 
 revolver, which I carried merely for protection, for we had 
 agreed to take shot about — we hastened down to the place 
 of embarkation. 
 
 From Stanley, Lemma Island could distinctly be seen : 
 it lay about eight miles off, almost directly to the 
 southward. Its general appearance is less rugged than 
 Hong-Kong, while its length is about seven mUes. After 
 a sail of three hours, the keel of our boat grated on the 
 desired landing-place, and as we disembarked, instructions 
 were given to the crew to proceed along the shore to a 
 known inlet, where we would join them before sunset. 
 As we started inland, the boat pushed off; so, for a time 
 at least, we were separated from the rest of the world. 
 
 The sun, that day, was not overpoweringly hot. A cool. 
 
162 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 strong breeze played over our faces as we breasted the 
 opposing hill-side. Sancho, old pet, ranged far and wide, 
 hoping that his previous experience would assist him to 
 find a point. Up higher, higher we ascended, Sancho 
 found no game, and we at length reached the summit. 
 From thence we had a grand view. Stanley, with its 
 snow-white barrack buildings, looked no larger than a flock 
 of scattered sheep on a hiU-side. Away to the eastward 
 was a square-rigged clipper ship on her homeward voyage, 
 freighted with the wealth of the Celestial Empire. 
 How many perils she was to encounter ere again she 
 floated in the waters that girded her ocean birth-place ! 
 To the westward opened Hong-Kong harbour. Half-a- 
 dozen American and European ships could be seen, while 
 the interval between them was crowded with every 
 description and size of Chinese shore-boat. On turning to 
 the other side, looking down the declivity opposite to 
 which we had ascended, a few hundred feet beneath 
 where we stood, we saw, nestled in the hills, one of the 
 pleasantest, cleanest Chinese villages, partially hidden by 
 noble banyan trees, it has ever been my lot to look at. 
 But that the climate is unhealthy, it would be an 
 admirable place to which a man, regardless of amassing 
 wealth and gaining reputation, might retire, with, perhaps, 
 some fair being for companion. By the village, through 
 the fields, we tramped, over hills, down ravines, till at 
 length we reached the snipe-ground B. had mentioned. It 
 was a hollow, between hills, sixty acres or so in extent, 
 the greater portion of which was cultivated with rice; a 
 
Among Chinese Pirates. 163 
 
 part, however, was even too wet for that water-loving 
 cereal. In the tilled and unreclaimed land we found 
 birds ; and when we rested, after an hour's work, we had 
 seven brace of snipe and a pair of teal. Satisfied— yes, 
 deeming ourselves well rewarded — we turned our faces 
 towards the place of rendezvous, little doubting we should 
 find the boat ready to receive her freight. As we 
 descended towards the sea, a glorious Oriental sunset 
 greeted us, and we both halted to see old Sol retire to 
 rest behind the mighty ocean, attended by legions of 
 clouds decked in the most refulgent coloured armour. 
 
 But time hurried on apace. Night quickly follows 
 sunset in tropical climates, and nearly a mile intervened 
 between us and the boat. Both of us were youthful and 
 active, and less than fifteen minutes placed us upon the 
 shingle beach of our rendezvous. But where was the 
 boat ? Surely some mistake had taken place. The crew 
 had left without us. "They deserve to have their heads 
 punched!" was the ejaculation that feU from our lips. 
 But talking was but a waste of time. We must decide 
 what was to be done, and do so quickly. In a minute our 
 determination was that each should go along the coast in 
 opposite directions, as, possibly, the boat might have come 
 a less distance or gone farther. If either should find the 
 boat, he was to return to his companion, keeping close in 
 shore; but if unsuccessful after searching for two mUes, 
 each was to turn to the right-about, and meet where we 
 then were about to part. 
 
 B., whistling "Bonnie Dundee," with his gun on his 
 
164 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 shoulder, took the western route; I, with Sancho at my 
 heels, the eastern. Darkness had now dropped her sable 
 mantle over the landscape, and many were the falls and 
 bruises that I got as I threaded my intricate way through 
 the almost insurmountable boulders that lay along the 
 beach. I knew that the night was not going to be dark, 
 because the moon rose early. Still, I wished most 
 cordially that it rose earlier. I went through a ndle of 
 most fatiguing clambering, tiU at length I found myself 
 in such a cul de sac that a retrograde movement was 
 absolutely necessary. To avoid a repetition of such 
 accidents, I made a detour inland. As soon as I reached 
 soil, I found walking much more favourable, for there was 
 nothing to oppose my progress but a sparse covering of 
 brush. But if the change was agreeable to me, it appeared 
 quite the reverse to my dog. Occasionally he would go 
 before me a few paces, and return growling, showing 
 every indication of anger. This conduct of Sancho's 
 struck me as strange, indeed more than strange, indicative 
 of trouble, for, poor old veteran, his knowledge of life had 
 long taught him not to proclaim a false alarm. StiU I 
 saw nothing, but for the sake of caution I determined to 
 return to the boulder-covered beach. In carrying out this 
 decision, I turned suddenly round, and behind me, just 
 showing over the rise in the land I had quitted, appeared 
 the figures of several Chinamen. (I may as well tell my 
 readers that this was in the year 1857, at a time when a 
 price was paid for every European's head.) At once T 
 knew that I was followed, and that with no amiable 
 
Among Chinese Pirates. 165 
 
 intention. Drawing my revolver from my belt and 
 cocking it, I resolved to pursue my way, and only use 
 my weapon if compelled to do so. I made, however, 
 for the shore — not that it offered greater security, but 
 intuition told me that from the sea alone help could be 
 expected. Pain would I have turned, but I felt I had 
 a duty to perform, and do it I would. The boulders 
 again impeded my progress, and the rising tide caused 
 my steps to be necessarily nearer the bluffs that descended 
 to the beach. 
 
 After such a warning as I had received, of course I kept 
 my eyes about me, and instead of two or three assailants, 
 I became convinced that there was at least a dozen. 
 Their numbers made them brave, and no longer was any 
 great amount of strategy practised to prevent their 
 presence being known. I had almost made up my mind 
 to place my back against a rock and fight it out, for I felt 
 I had been headed off from further progress, when a boat 
 shot round a point not fifty yards off. B. was in her, and, 
 rushing through the surf and water waist-deep, I 
 clambered on board. To explain my escape to Mm at 
 that moment was unnecessary, for my pursuers, baulked 
 in what they had considered a certain prize, lost their 
 prudence, and, yelling, rushed upon the beach. A couple 
 of gingalls which they carried sent their messengers 
 whistling by us, and thus gave us fair grounds for 
 retaliation. 
 
 B. stood up in the stern sheets ; not thirty yards from 
 us stood conspicuous the largest of our assailants. 
 
166 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 Quickly- B.'s gun was pitched to his shoulder, and with 
 the report arose a most unearthly yelL Never have I 
 heard a more frightful cry from those who have fallen 
 beside me in the battle-field, or from the raving madman 
 confined in a strait-jacket. B.'s gun was loaded with one 
 of Eley's heavy shot wire-cartridges.* 
 
 In a few hours we reached the detachment, and just as 
 we were about to land, I attempted to fire my revolver. 
 Every barrel missed. 
 
 * Poor B. , who had left the service some years, lately died at Aberdeen, 
 his native city, where he had retired to practise his profession. 
 
CHAPTEE XXI. 
 
 SHOOTING NBAE HONG-KONG. 
 
 IN" speaking of Hong-Kong, the uninitiated are apt to 
 think that it is the last place in the world which choice 
 wonld lead one to visit ; but when you have traversed that 
 mountainous and picturesque island, wandered through 
 its numerous valleys, rested from the noonday sun in 
 some of its innumerable vUlages, or drank the cool 
 waters that trickle down its many rugged ravines — more 
 especially if in the society of some of its merchant princes, 
 whose wealth is unbounded and good-fellowship beyond 
 comparison — I must be a false prophet indeed, or else you 
 win most assuredly, in after years, look back with delight 
 and satisfaction to the period you spent upon the Chinese 
 coast. 
 
 From my youth upwards I have always kept a diary, as 
 I should recommend all sportsmen to do, and when I look 
 back through the musty and soiled pages, I find that my 
 double-barrels did as much good and constant work, when 
 
Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 living on the confines of the Celestial Empire, as they 
 have executed before or after in the many climes and 
 distant lands it has been my lot to visit. 
 
 AH may not have the same opportunities as I had, 
 for f, shortly after arrival, made the acquaintance of a 
 thorough sportsman and kind-hearted, worthy gentleman, 
 who kept an excellent kennel of both pointers and setters, 
 and who kindly took me by the hand, and introduced me 
 to all the best localities for game, which he had found 
 out through his own indefatigable exertions and love of 
 adventure during a long residence in this colony. I 
 should have some hesitation in pointing out these 
 hunting-grounds, for fear my worthy friend should object 
 to the world being informed of the results of his labours ; 
 but, alas ! he now sleeps peacefully in the Happy Valley, 
 where neither dog nor gun can disturb him, warmly 
 remembered by all who knew him, and much regretted by 
 every one who had the honour of calling him friend. No 
 true man or sportsman should pass his last resting-place 
 without dropping a tear; and often have I regretted that 
 circumstances have not carried me back to that far Eastern 
 land, that I might pay this rightful tribute to the kindest 
 friend, the most unselfish man I ever met. If this 
 introduction be deemed irrelevant, I warn my readers that 
 I make this rhapsody the penalty for which I give my 
 experience. 
 
 Early one bright November morning, I sailed with 
 three companions from Hong-Kong harbour on board the 
 good fast boat Pat-wan. My esteemed friend, D., was 
 
Shooting near Hong-Kong. 169 
 
 one of my associates. The others were both merchants 
 from Canton, keen sportsmen and good fellows. A fresh, 
 fair wind was blowing as we got under weigh, and as the 
 large matting-saUs bellied out to the wind, our craft cleft 
 the water like a thing of life. I doubt much if there is a 
 more secure or beautiful harbour than the one through 
 which we were now running, nor can a greater or more 
 numerous variety of all kinds of boats and shipping, 
 whether European or Asiatic, be seen anywhere else. The 
 powerful steamship, strong as timber and iron can make 
 it, capable of encountering the much-dreaded typhoon; 
 the graceful, snake-like clipper; the heavy, lumbering, 
 native-built East Indiaman; the opium schooner, model 
 of fleetness and symmetry; the Shantung junk, 
 the piratical and smuggling fast boat — all lie in one 
 heterogeneous mass, with a perfect mosquito fleet of 
 man-of-war's boats, flower boats, sampans, merchants' and 
 captains' gigs, threading the intricate paths of open water 
 left between the larger and markedly dissimilar crafts. 
 The flag of England may predominate, but the stars and 
 stripes, tricolour, flaunting yellow ensign of Spain, with 
 the representative emblem of every other nationality in 
 the world, can here be found flying at the peaks of 
 trading vessels — for the owners of these crafts are aU 
 intent on money-making, and ready to charter any 
 nationality to carry tea, sUk, and opium, or sometimes 
 even do a little piratical business, if nothing else ofi'ers. 
 
 As we cleared the labyrinth of shipping, our stem was 
 pointed for the Capsheemoon Pass, a distance of about six 
 
170 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 miles, and gallantly did we advance; but even after 
 leaving the roadstead, our way was not uninterrupted. 
 First we steered through a fleet of fishing-boats; next a 
 crowd of merchant junks, heavily freighted with the 
 wealth of this Eastern clime, or some rapid steamboat or 
 mandarin snake-boat shoots past — all on a visit to the 
 European emporium. What between lufing and running 
 off to avoid collisions, more than an hour elapsed before 
 we got through the passage, when, from the effect of the 
 high lands shutting out the regular course of the wind, it 
 was necessary to make several tacks to get a good ofi&ng 
 for the place we intended to run to. Castle Peak Bay was 
 our destination, and so, holding old Lin Ting on the south, 
 we gallantly ran down for our anchoring ground. As it 
 was only midday when we reached our journey's end, it 
 was universally agreed that tif&n should be served before 
 we commenced operations. The word of command was 
 rapidly passed forward, and almost as quickly one of those 
 sumptuous meals for which the Orient is justly celebrated 
 was served under the awning upon the flush deck. After 
 feeling the inward man refreshed, we disembarked, 
 and soon stood on Urra firma, longing to commence 
 the anticipated sport. Doe and Die, a setter and 
 pointer, were selected for our ddhAt, and Sancho, a young 
 liver-coloured pointer, a present from my friend, I 
 determined to take, for the benefit he would receive from 
 the example of his weU-brokeri companions. The ground 
 we were about to shoot over was undulating and grassy, 
 there being no high land in the inunediate vicinity. 
 
Shooting near Hong-Kong. 171 
 
 save the old Peak, from which the place takes its name. 
 A good deal of the vicinity had been previously cultivated, 
 but on account of unproductiveness, or other causes, was 
 now neglected. StiU, the diminutive stone fences which 
 characterise this country remained, and the intricate 
 covering of briars and creepers, which almost hid them 
 from view, was found a frequent shelter and resting-place 
 of our quarry. Among the varieties of game which we 
 expected to find were the lordly pheasant, refulgent in 
 gorgeous plumage. He is indigenous to this locality, 
 where he grows to a much greater size than I have ever 
 seen him elsewhere, weighing frequently four pounds and 
 a-half, and sometimes even more. I killed a cock in the 
 Shangmoon Valley, not over ten miles from our present 
 beat, which handsomely turned down the scale at five and 
 a-half StOl, these birds are not very abundant here, this 
 locality being scarcely far enough inland, where the covers 
 are more extensive and better suited for their propagation. 
 Frankolin, however, are here tolerably numerous, few days 
 passing without a dozen or more falling to the sportsman's 
 aim. They are larger than the partridge of England, lie 
 remarkably close, and, when flushed, beat aU the game- 
 birds put together in the velocity of their flight. To be 
 successful, you must shoot quick, and cover them well, 
 as they wiU carry off as much lead as a wUd goose. Then 
 the quaU — the little migratory darlings — if you only 
 chance to hit the time of their arrival, they will give you 
 as much popping to do as can be stood up to. In Malta, 
 on the coast of Spain, and among the Greek islands, I 
 
172 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 have enjoyed some splendid sport with them, and made 
 wondrous bags, but here in Southern China they are ten 
 to one in comparison of numbers. Don't be impatient. 
 I have not completed my Hst. Snipe — the idol of the 
 shooter — also abound. Can any one tell to what land 
 the bird is a stranger? Here there are two species — the 
 common bird, so numerous in Ireland, and the painted 
 species, larger than the former, more beautiful in plumage, 
 but lacking the velocity of flight, and last, though not 
 least, the delicacy of flavour after passing through the 
 cook's hands. Then as to the web-footed gentry, their 
 name is legion, and their varieties are without number 
 — pelicans, geese, mallard, widgeon, and teal being 
 frequently seen in such hordes that the water is obscured. 
 If you imagine that I am romancing, you have but in 
 the winter to take a trip up the Broadway running from 
 the back of Macao to Canton. Defer your opinion till 
 then, and I fear not the result. There is but one place 
 where such a sight can be seen as well as in China, and 
 if you have time and means, place yourself upon the 
 margin of any of the numerous sloughs in the western 
 prairies of America, a little after sunset, late in autumn, 
 when the weather from appearances promises a rapid 
 approach of winter, and I presume to predict that, even 
 if you should live to the age of Methuselah, and have true 
 sporting procUvities, the sight you wiU then witness never 
 can be forgotten. 
 
 But to return. Seldom, if you go sufficiently inland, 
 will a day pass without your seeing deer, and probably 
 
Shooting near Hong-Kong. 173 
 
 getting a shot at them; even on the island of 
 Hong-Kong a number are to be found. Some of my 
 regiment, on more than one occasion, brought them 
 to bag in the woods that encircle the Happy Valley, 
 where they used frequently to hunt them with a pack 
 of dwarf beagles. Another species, larger and scarcer, 
 the Formosan deer, is also to be found; on the mainland 
 it resembles our fallow deer in size, make, and colour. 
 I only once had the fortune to kill one, and it was 
 deemed quite an exploit. It happened in this wise. I 
 was shooting pheasants in the upper portion of the 
 Shangmoon VaUey, and my luck had been anything 
 but gratifying. The heat was oppressive, owing to the 
 circulation of air being shut out by the numerous 
 mountain ridges, and I had begun to fabricate excuses 
 for discontinuing my unprofitable business, consoling 
 myself with the idea that I could make up in the 
 afternoon for the lost morning hour. When about to 
 retrace my steps to the joss-house, where I had left my 
 attendants, with instructions to prepare breakfast, I 
 observed a crowd of Celestials, with banners flying and 
 other insignia of pomp, descending an opposite declivity. 
 From what I knew of the manners of this strange people, I 
 concluded it was a funeral party, and silently watched their 
 grotesque proceedings. On they advanced, making the 
 rocks reverberate with their disjointed bowlings. A deer 
 was unkennelled by their approach, and made direct for my 
 resting-place. Beneath was a stream which he had to 
 ford if he continued his course. When the antlered 
 
174 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 gentleman reached the water, he stood and gazed with 
 apparent curiosity at the mixed crowd of ragamuffins 
 who had ousted him from his lair. Some minutes 
 elapsed ere he made up his mind to wet his feet, which 
 delay I turned to account by slipping an Eley green 
 cartridge into each barrel, having taken care to avail 
 myself of the friendly shelter of some brush. As the 
 mob advanced closer upon him, deeming his safety 
 imperilled, he crossed the brook and offered me as 
 beautiful a side shot, at thirty-five yards, as the most 
 fastidious could desire. Simultaneously with the report 
 his graceful form bit the dust, and I had the satisfaction 
 of forwarding to the garrison as magnificent a piece of 
 venison as ever graced a mahogany table. 
 
 But to return to our friends, who are doubtlessly 
 impatientlj^ waiting to commence work. The dogs were 
 thrown off,' and but little time was lost before we had 
 evidence that the quail had arrived. Die was the first to 
 stand, and no sooner had she assumed her rigid position 
 than both Doe and Sancho backed. Soon a birdrwas on 
 the wing, and as rapidly cut down. More than an hour 
 passed, with little other diversity than when bad 
 shooting was made, and the luckless traveller would 
 run the gauntlet of our crowd. Many a good-natured 
 joke and happy salvo of wit greeted the "wiping of 
 each other's eyes," and our attendant coolies commenced 
 to groan under replenished game-bags. What is there 
 more delightful than a party of happy friends meeting 
 to enjoy the paramount pleasure of a day's shooting? 
 
Shooting near Hong-Kong. 175 
 
 A person of great literary talent once wrote that the 
 chase has a striking resemblance to war ; for my part I 
 cannot see it, for I never yet was tinder fire without 
 feeling nervous, and a strong desire for the termination 
 of the programme. I have heard many boast that they 
 gloried in the whistle of the bullet, or the wicked, 
 venomous screech of the shell. Bah! I cannot believe 
 such statements. Nature has not gifted me with less 
 courage than my fellows; still, I never could overcome 
 an unconquerable dislike to witness brains and blood 
 scattered around, or a disfigured, inanimate form drop 
 from the ranks, perhaps of one as unfitted as myself to 
 go to his final reckoning. 
 
 But what are the dogs about, standing as stiff as 
 posts ? and although we are close up, never a feather 
 can we see. Heigh on ! Good dogs ! Wot a step will 
 they move ! All our inducements can't make them 
 advance. " Look out for a partridge !" exclaims our 
 veteran leader; previous experience warned him what it 
 was. One of our number headed the dogs. Still 
 nothing " flushed." Each tuft of grass is kicked; back and 
 forth we walk, when, birr, with double the noise of an old 
 cock-pheasant, and with a little of the rapid action of a 
 high-pressure engine, Master FrankoHn rushes, on rapid 
 wings, for a new abode. Bang ! bang ! speak the guns, 
 and at last he is cut down. The less-experienced 
 having missed their bird like men, and our veteran 
 leader tumbling him all of a heap, the unfortunate 
 victim turned a succession of somersaults ere the 
 
176 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 velocity with which he was going became fully 
 retarded. I never yet knew a novice succeed in his 
 first effort to kill this description of game, for their 
 flight is so rapid, the noise they make on taking wing 
 so great, and the whole performance so sudden, that 
 the tyro is certain to get disconcerted. Have you ever 
 witnessed the pace with which a flight of teaJ, with a 
 gale of wind at their stern, descend upon a sheet of 
 water? If so, their velocity is the best comparison I 
 can offer. We had now evidently struck the haunts 
 of the frankolins, for several more were kUled, and 
 not a few* escaped scot-free. One remarkable peculiarity 
 about them is, that you will never "flush" them in 
 coveys; at the same time, where you find one, more 
 may confidently be looked for. I remember once having 
 crossed over to Kowloon, which is on the opposite side 
 of the harbour, and on the mainland, to try aud pick 
 up a few snipe, as a tonne, louche to finish a repast I was 
 about to give some friends. A good supply of No. 9 
 and my sixteen-bore I considered the most suitable 
 for my purpose. Sancho, whom I had taught to retrieve 
 among other accomplishments, as the wet paddy-fields 
 are often far from agreeable to tramp over, was my 
 companion. In crossing a ridge of rough ground that 
 divided one flat marsh from another, he pointed 
 respectively three frankolin, and although I was within 
 easy shooting distance of each, and most thoroughly 
 dusted their jackets, making the feathers fly, I had not 
 the fortune to secure one. The vitality of this bird 
 
Shooting near Hong Kong. 177 
 
 is truly amazing, and unless you break a wing, or 
 otherwise render him Ixors de combat, you are extremely 
 unlikely to see him again, for once he is started, he 
 knows no bounds to his journey. 
 
 Onward our party continued. After picking up 
 plenty more quaU, our dogs stopped on the edge of a 
 slope densely covered with dwarf brushwood, principally 
 composed of the beautifully brilliant azalea, which grows 
 here in the greatest profusion wherever the soil is moist. 
 I cannot say I was surprised, for an internal whispering 
 had told me what to expect. A brace of pheasants 
 took wing, several misses were made, but the couple 
 were knocked down; one quivered on the grassy open, 
 while the other fell in the underbrush. The services 
 of Doe were brought into requisition, and after losing 
 a quarter of an hour, we were compelled to retire with 
 only one bird. However, Doe was not satisfied, and he 
 remained behind to make a final effort for the recovery 
 of the wounded game, while we continued our work. 
 In little more than ten minutes the sagacious dog 
 joined us, triumphantly bearing the wounded bird, and 
 so little was he injured by the setter's teeth, that he made 
 several abortive efforts to escape before he was safely 
 deposited in the game-bag. That night, on counting 
 our spoil, we found three pheasants, nine partridges, 
 and almost a hundred quails — pretty good shooting, I 
 think you will agree, for four guns during an afternoon. 
 
 M 
 
CHAPTEE XXII. 
 
 DEIFTING TO DEATH. 
 
 IT is well known that a swimmer may incur considerable 
 danger by bathing in the presence of a faithful dog, 
 because the instinct of these animals causes them to 
 believe their master is in peril, and by misdirected 
 efforts, instead of saving, they complete the catastrophe 
 they wish to avert. Such a misadventure once occurred 
 to me, and as the circumstances were peculiar, the 
 narration of the same may not be without interest. 
 
 While in China, on returning from drill in the 
 afternoon, my house-boy informed me that a coolie had 
 just arrived from Shangmoon side, and that both snipe 
 and quail had arrived in considerable numbers. Such 
 a chance for a day's sport was not to be disregarded; 
 so hurrying over to the Colonel's, I got the requisite 
 permission to absent myself for a day. 
 
 At the Club House I mustered a couple of companions, 
 neither of whom I had ever been with before, but as 
 
Drifting to Death. 179 
 
 they bore the reputation of being good sportsmen and 
 crack shots, I was only too glad to accept their society. 
 Soon all preliminary arrangements were made; I was 
 to dine with them, take a sofa afterwards so as to be 
 up by break of day, and the earlier ready for a start. 
 
 With my dogs — for I had a brace — I turned up for 
 dinner. The meal passed pleasantly, and a couple of 
 arrivals (warm-hearted, chatty fellows), when the wine 
 was placed on the table, dropped in and caused us to 
 disregard the fleeting hours, till it was so late, that we 
 unanimously agreed not to go to roost, but make a night 
 of it — not a very judicious course for those who wished 
 to make clean shooting. 
 
 With daybreak we sallied down to Peddar's wharf; the 
 wind at the time was gusty, and the appearance of the 
 fleeting clouds which scudded overhead ominous of a 
 coming blow. 
 
 Wow Pirates' Bay, where we intended landing, was a 
 good six miles off across the channel which severed the 
 island of Hong-Kong from the mainland, and a portion 
 of which is a deep indentation in the land, enclosed on 
 two sides by precipitous, lofty hills. 
 
 But few boats were knocking about, owing to the 
 earliness of the hour, and all which we hailed civilly 
 declined to undertake our hire. At length, after 
 considerable delay, a more adventurous craft came past, 
 and, after a little pressing and abundant promises of 
 cumshaw, she was backed alongside, and we seated 
 ourselves in the stem-sheets, which were covered over 
 
180 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 with matting to protect passengers from the sun's 
 rays. 
 
 Before going further, it may be well to state that 
 there are no better boatmen in the world than the 
 Chinese. The aquatic residents on that coast are familiar 
 with the sea from their infancy, and when they cannot 
 go under canvas, Europeans had better take warning 
 and douse their sails also. Well, we got on for a mile 
 or two safely enough; a few small seas came over us, 
 more capable from their magnitude of damping our guns 
 than our ardour; so forward for our destination we 
 pushed, close-hauled occasionally, and when the squalls 
 freshened too much, luffing up a little closer to the 
 wind. 
 
 Our boat was a stiff, weatherly craft, and with her 
 reduced sail, and the comparatively smooth water that 
 surrounded us, we had nothing to fear ; but some persons 
 will be fastidious; so what should one of my friends 
 do but insist on steering, because a few sprays had 
 damped his well-trimmed and much-loved whiskers. 
 Now these appendages were his treasures, his first 
 thought in the morning, his last at night, and possibly 
 received many a furtive glance during the day, whenever 
 he chanced to be in the vicinity of a glass. It was of 
 no use attemping to dissuade him from his resolution; 
 all the arguments I could use to the contrary were 
 thrown away; further opposition on my part I felt 
 would lead to a rupture. So, sooner than such should 
 take place, I tacitly gave my consent for him to take 
 
Drifting to Death. 181 
 
 the tnier-Hiies, the coxswain's seat, and become our 
 Palinurus. 
 
 The change of steersmen was soon effected, and from 
 the time it took place the gusts of wind appeared to 
 freshen. Tor fifteen or twenty minutes we did well 
 enough. At length a harder squall than had previously 
 been experienced threw us almost on our beam-ends. 
 "Luff!" was the word, and luff it was, till so much 
 luffing was done, that on righting to an even keel, the 
 boat gibed, and being trimmed so as to sail on the tack we 
 had pursued, the craft turned her keel to the heavens, 
 and we went out from under the awning in what the 
 fishes must have considered a most ungraceful and 
 highly ludicrous manner. 
 
 On coming to the surface and wiping the brine out 
 of my eyes, I was grabbed by the shoulder by our 
 would-be helmsman, the one who had placed us in our 
 present predicament, and, worse than all, he could not 
 swim, nor would he let go his hold. Argument and 
 remonstrance were useless, shake him off I could not, 
 selfish enough I should have been to try it; but a 
 drowning man will grasp at a straw, and certainly, 
 from my personal experience, he will cling to any one 
 that can swim, whether he causes his destruction or not. 
 So, ceasing to exhaust myself by remonstrance, I struck 
 out and gained the gunwale of the topsy-turvy boat, 
 my friend clinging to me as tightly as ever did the old 
 man of the sea to Sindbad. 
 
 At the time this catastrophe happened, the tide was 
 
182 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 running out, and there we were — for all managed to 
 reach the boat — hanging on to our reversed cockle-shell, 
 with my dogs swimming round about, and every now 
 and then paying me a -visit, with the intention, evidently 
 marked in their countenances, of asking how I was, and 
 whether I required their assistance. But here our trouble 
 did not cease, too many of us clung to the same side 
 of the boat, placing more weight on it than on the other, 
 and when an unusually high sea would sweep past, the 
 boat would turn over and right herself, but from her 
 great sheer it was impossible to baU her out, for the sea 
 made a clean breach midships. 
 
 Again and again, from this rotary movement, we were 
 all thrown from her, and as time elapsed, and all, dogs 
 included, became exhausted, the latter would persistently 
 come to me, and endeavour to rest their exhausted bodies 
 by placing their limbs upon my shoulders. 
 
 One moment the boat had her keel down, next 
 upwards. When the former was the case, I used my 
 endeavours to shove the unfortunate dogs on board; 
 when the latter position was in the ascendant, they 
 had to swim, for the craft was deep and sharp, with 
 but little flooring, and consequently little resting-room 
 to be obtained in the vicinity of her keel. 
 
 During every minute, for a quarter of an hour, our boat 
 changed its position, and would doubtless have continued 
 to do so, but that we managed more equally to distribute 
 the weight along each gunwale; but before that was 
 accomplished, what between my friend clinging by me 
 
Drifting to Death. 183 
 
 and the dogs swimming to me, I was about " played out." 
 At last the distribution of weight gave me release, the 
 pets were placed inside, and my friend was given a 
 good hold by the stern. Time fled on rapid wing; 
 minutes became hours ; already we had drifted by the 
 famiHar objects that mark the outer harbour of 
 Hong-Kong. Stonecutter's Island disappeared from view, 
 and still no friendly sail was at hand. 
 
 Although sharks are not particularly numerous here, 
 I expected a bite every moment, because I had white 
 trousers on. Not I alone, but all appeared to labour 
 under the same conviction, nor did we hesitate to convey 
 our conviction to one another. Our position was truly 
 unenviable, for we were drifting out to sea before a rapid 
 tide, and the only prospect before us, unless a ship 
 should heave in sight, of outliving one another, depended 
 on the amount of vitality each possessed. 
 
 Landmarks which I well knew glided past. Farther 
 and farther our temporary support drifted on. Still no 
 craft came to our aid, and truly we felt that we were 
 alone on the bosom of the waters. At length one of our 
 party — not he who had steered — spoke in serious words; 
 they were to the effect that his strength was giving way, 
 and he felt that in a few minutes he must relax his 
 hold. I begged of him not to do so; I entreated him 
 to show his pluck, reminded him of his wife and children, 
 and how they depended on him for their support. My 
 entreaties had their effect, for still he clung to the 
 wreck. We must have been in this predicament over 
 
184 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 two hours, when a Chinese junk hove in sight. Closer 
 and closer it approached, till at length scarcely a hundred 
 yards divided us, when up went her helm, and off she 
 stood upon another tack, alike disregarding our shouts 
 and signals. My last hopes vanished with her. I felt 
 convinced that I was now performing my last exploit. 
 And when the heartless Celestials, who I was sure 
 had seen us, turned their rudder towards myself and 
 companions, I hurled a deep and heartfelt anathema after 
 them. 
 
 Our last hopes appeared to fade out with the junk. 
 Farther and farther she receded from us. At length her 
 hull disappeared, and nought but the mat sails could be 
 seen to mark her existence. Again and again I tried to 
 reanimate my companions — no easy task, for both 
 appeared to have lost hope, and with it the desire of 
 continuing existence. My last effort had been made. 
 Supplications and entreaties were exhausted. I believed 
 momentarily that one or both would have relaxed their 
 hold to enter eternity, for the ordeal was a severe trial 
 of endurance, and one was far from being strong, the 
 other without any knowledge of the art of swimming. As 
 sea after sea broke over us — and with the passage of 
 time they were becoming larger as we drifted farther from 
 land — my dogs required more constant attention ; scarcely 
 would they be placed in the boat, resting on the seats, 
 when a more angry wave than its predecessor would cai-ry 
 them beyond us ; and they, poor creatures ! would 
 invariably swim back to me for help. Again and again 
 
Drifting to Death. 185 
 
 this had been repeated, and I had almost ceased to feel 
 capable of placing them in the submerged boat, when, 
 as we drifted by a point of land, the extreme end of a 
 diminutive island, a square-rigged ship, studding sails set, 
 with her stem pointed at us, hove in sight. 
 
 With eyes strained almost to bursting, all gazed upon 
 her; with over-taxed hopes, all prayed that she might 
 not go by us : on — on she came, stately with her 
 majestic spars. But, alas ! she veered to the right, and 
 if she continued her present course, she would probably 
 pass more than a mile from us. If the decks were 
 deserted, if the watch were not on the alert, it was quite 
 possible we might drift past unobserved. At length we 
 were abreast of this vessel — no indication on her decks 
 told us that her occupants were aware of our vicinity 
 — ^what was to be done to attract attention ? Each in 
 his turn raised himself and shouted; but the weak and 
 worn-out voices never reached their destination. At 
 length one of the Chinese boatmen divested himself of 
 his outer garment; he waved it in the wind, and just 
 as our hopes of succour were dying out, a boat was lowered 
 from the vessel's waist, several seamen sprang into her, 
 and ere half-an hour-passed we were all, dogs included, 
 on board the "Plying Mist," on her passage from San 
 Francisco to Hong-Kong. At the gangway the captain 
 met us; he was just such a man as it was desirable 
 to come in contact with under such circumstances — 
 hospitality occupied a large part of his big heart. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 "WILD DUCK SHOOTING. 
 
 A MONTH or more after the shooting incidents last 
 narrated, when, after the manner of ardent devotees 
 of the chase, we had concentrated the sundry decanters 
 at one end of the board, and lit, from the ever-ignited, 
 smouldering joss-stick, our inimitable cigars of the brand 
 of Contrabandistas, the most fragrant of all ManOlas, 
 conversation turned upon our mutual hobby. Long shots 
 and short ones, heavy bags, strange adventures and 
 shooting companions, were aU discussed ; even the relative 
 merits of respective gunmakers fell in for their share of 
 criticism, and so the happy hours fled with rapid stride, 
 till at length we had definitely arranged that next day, 
 weather propitious, we would start for deep bay, distant 
 about thirty miles, to wage war upon the numerous ducks 
 and geese which generally frequented that neighbourhood 
 at this season of the year. 
 
 N"ow this trip was a hazardous undertaking, and 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 187 
 
 recruits had to be beaten up, for in numbers there is 
 strength, and a jaunt in any direction exceeding a few 
 miles was always extremely dangerous, and even more so 
 than usual at this period, for a premium of three hundred 
 dollars was on each European's head that could be sent 
 to the Chinese Government. Still, what will a sportsman 
 not risk rather than be debarred the enjoyment of his 
 favourite pleasure ! Early rising, uncomfortable quarters, 
 exposure to wet and storm, are all smiled at, and even 
 the luxurious couch, the handsomely furnished chamber 
 and rechercM table, are often, for a period, temporarily 
 foregone. 
 
 As my good old friend and companion had a deserved 
 reputation for his success and knowledge of the haunts 
 and habits of game, he had no trouble in procuring 
 recruits; so that on the morrow, when, at the appointed 
 starting-time, I arrived at our place of rendezvous, two 
 old friends were already on the ground amid a pile of 
 wine-cases, boxes of potted meats and vegetables, 
 gun-cases, and aU the etceteras of a sportsman's 
 paraphernalia, discussing the prospects, and anticipating 
 with pleasure the deeds of prowess we were about to 
 perform. Soon we were all — four in number — transferred 
 on board the clipper-built "Lorcha," and as her crew 
 shook out her immense matting sail, the wind laid her 
 over, the smooth water splitting before her sharp bow, 
 and bearing ns forward for our proposed destination, as 
 soon as headway was obtained, at fully eight or nine knots 
 per hour. Lounging on the deck in every attitude of 
 
188 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 repose, enjoying the balmy breeze and beautiful scenery 
 that surrounded us, we quickly gain the Capsheemoon Pass, 
 where the panorama, beautiful before, even improves ; for 
 countless are the rugged mountain-peaks and numerous 
 the islands that form the background of the landscape, 
 while innumerable craft of every size, shape, and nationality 
 glide swiftly by in close proximity — ^good evidence of the 
 immense carrying trade of the interesting and strange 
 inhabitants of this far distant and little-known land. An 
 old and favourite shooting resort, Castle Peak, bears on 
 the right; while Linting, once the rendezvous of fleets of 
 wealthy East Indiamen, looms ruggedly on the left, 
 now long deserted and divested of the busy bustle of 
 commerce for the safer anchorage and pleasanter island 
 of Hong-Kong. On, on we glide, with little change, save 
 additional motion, for we are gradually gaining open 
 unsheltered water, tUl the skilful pilot deems we have 
 made sufficient offing, alters our course, and bears up for 
 Deep Bay, which, by the way, is very shallow as far as 
 depth of water is concerned, and must have gained its 
 name from the great distance it runs inland. "With a 
 good breeze upon our beam, we lay over to port, and 
 rapidly draw in upon the shore, our sail level as a flat 
 board, tOl scattered villages and numerous paddy-fields 
 show, bespeaking the abundance of population and 
 untiring energy of the industrious natives. Chinese 
 villages are generally very picturesque, the style of 
 architecture quaint and pretty, while the situations 
 are always admirably chosen to please the eye, having 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 189 
 
 abundance of scattered shade-trees and wood around. 
 WhicH of us does not well remember the old willow-pattern 
 on China ware, once so popular and universal? What 
 child has not gazed with wonder and astonishment upon 
 its bad perspective and curious details ? Nevertheless, 
 making allowance for all its faults, it has a marvellous 
 resemblance to many a celestial homestead I have visited 
 in my lengthened sojourn in that densely populated 
 country. 
 
 Having advanced as far as navigation would permit 
 at the then state of the tide, we grounded on an oyster 
 bank, where we were compulsorily detained for several 
 hours; and as the day was now too far advanced to 
 commence work, cigars and other etceteras, with the 
 additional accompaniments of pleasant companionship, 
 did not cause us to regret the detention, and swiftly 
 passed the hours, time being enlivened with many, 
 a merry song, sparkling joke, racy anecdote, or 
 reminiscence of far-distant homes. 
 
 On rising before the sun on the morrow, we found 
 our crew had not been idle, for we had advanced ten 
 or twelve miles farther, and were now safely moored 
 in the channel of a considerable river which flowed 
 through the centre of a large rushy marsh, intersected 
 in every direction by watercourses — in truth, just such 
 surroundings as a duck-shooter would choose; and as 
 we supped our morning cup of coffee in the twilight, 
 flight after flight of the web-footed gentry whistled by, 
 intent with preoccupied thoughts, and consequently 
 
190 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 fearless of danger, to gain some oozy mud-bank or 
 sheltered feeding-ground. 
 
 After a consultation, it was decided that we should 
 separate, two of our party going up stream, the 
 remaiader down ; and as I and my worthy friend, the 
 projector of this escapade, were assigned to each other's 
 companionship, we soon crossed the bulwarks and 
 seated ourselves in our skiff, behiad four stout Chinamen, 
 whose sinewy arms made the well-seasoned ash oars 
 bend under their mUscular exertions, while our stem 
 was pointed for the more open water. 
 
 It would scarcely be fair to neglect to- mention a very 
 important personage who accompanied us, viz., a French 
 poodle, who, in our estimation, and in the estimation of 
 all who knew her, was supposed to know more than aU 
 the dogs of her day. This animal was an untiring 
 swimmer, up to every trick, and comprehending almost 
 every word that was said to her; stiU, she was ladylike 
 in being fond of having her own way, and would even 
 display occasionally a most provoking amount of 
 obstinacy. But being well acquainted with her 
 pecuharities, I was induced to take her, as we were 
 without a retriever, for I was aware that if "the spirit 
 moved" her propitiously, she would make herself most 
 useful. As we proceeded rapidly down the stream, with 
 a favourable tide, sundry shots were obtained, and 
 several single birds were picked up, but none of the 
 flocks we had earlier observed had, so far, come within 
 reach. My companion, besides his ordinary twelve-bore 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 191 
 
 gun, had a double barrel of six gauge, from the 
 •well-known establishment of Egg, and as he had frequently 
 used it with good results at long ranges, we both had 
 great hopes of successfully bringing it into play. On 
 approaching the more open water, a dense phalanx of 
 teal were seen hovering over a mud-bar, and with 
 powerful stroke and keen expectation we directed our 
 course for this miniature regiment. Again and again 
 the ever-varying flock rose and descended with rapid 
 swoop, the light glancing off their metallic-coloured 
 plumage as if from a mirror, and recalling remembrances 
 of the appearance of a flight of golden plover. As teal 
 in these waters are seldom wary, no care was taken to 
 conceal ourselves. The only caution we adopted was 
 that the Chinamen lay on their oars when we had 
 obtained good headway, which, with the force of the 
 current, rapidly hurried us forward. Yard by yard we 
 steadily advanced tiU but sixty intervened, and the 
 ducks, which had previously alighted, showed symptoms 
 that our presence was disagreeable. D. pitched his gun, 
 and two reports followed with little interval, the 
 first shower of shot being delivered while the birds 
 rested, the second as they hurriedly rose to quit so 
 dangerous a neighbourhood. The result was that 
 thirty-two plump beauties were bagged, with at least 
 a fourth more disabled, which were unfortunately lost — 
 a termination which too frequently follows long shots 
 from large guns. The bar which we had now reached 
 appeared a favourite resting-place for wild fowl, and. 
 
192 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 in little over an hour, more than a dozen of the 
 web-footed genus were added to our already extensive 
 hag. However, as day advanced, the game hecame 
 more wary, and we consequently determined to go on 
 a voyage of discovery in quest of fresh scenes and 
 less-watchful ducks. 
 
 The tide was now out, and as we gUded along the 
 shore of numerous slobby mud-banks, we observed 
 sundry Chinamen gathering shell-fish over the treacherous, 
 oozy surface. Their manner of progression was novel 
 and curious. Each searcher had an apparatus like a 
 large hand-sleigh, with an upright at the back extremity, 
 on which he leaned his chest, propelling the vehicle 
 with his feet in rear. Nor was this all. Ducks and 
 geese, which were feeding in thousands on these slippery 
 banks, did not appear in the least to regard the presence 
 of John Chinaman, while plying his avocation. Long 
 association, previous security and uninterruption, had 
 gained these wary birds' confidence, and with simply 
 a flutter or quack, they cleared the path for the 
 shell-fish hunter to progress. No man with the smallest 
 amount of invention could fail to turn such a discovery 
 as this to advantage. D. had been a sailor, and well 
 knew all the intricacies of knots and splices. A couple 
 of these hands-sleighs lashed together, with a seat 
 between them, was all that was requisite ; but to malce 
 the trial less liable to failure, it was better still for the 
 gunner to don the outer raiment of a native. Having 
 consulted one of our oarsmen, who spoke om' lingo, we 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 193 
 
 made arrangements for opening negotiations for the 
 temporary use of these novel machines, and quickly- 
 had a couple alongside our boat. With many an intricate 
 and skilfully devised knot, brace and counter-brace, 
 the construction was fabricated. My friend had already 
 put one of the boatmen's common garments over his 
 own — no easy matter, for he was portly, in truth very 
 portly, though short in stature — and with his redoubtable 
 heavy gun, he determiaed on making the first essay. 
 Before starting, however, an additional improvement 
 was suggested, viz., a stool for him to sit on — which 
 was received with approval, renewed ties and bights 
 being placed around its legs to keep it firm in the 
 proper place. Never shall I forget, to the last day I live, 
 the imposing appearance of my companion, as he started 
 with a smUe of satisfaction on his lip, and an injunction 
 to me not to let the cat out of the bag when we got 
 home, as the escapade could be repeated on the morrow. 
 With two of the lusty Chinamen propelling him forward 
 over the slimy surface, with rapid, sleigh-like motion, 
 ere going much over a hundred yards a shot was 
 obtaiaed, and six or more curlew were cut down at 
 short range, ignorant from whence came the death-dealing 
 hand. Soon all were gathered up, and " en avant " was 
 the cry; but whether it happened from the knots being 
 insecure, or the lashing breaking, or the propelling force 
 not acting simultaneously, dreadful to narrate, the two 
 mud-boats parted, and my stout, jolly, kind, good-hearted 
 friend disappeared between them into a bed of the foulest 
 
194 Adventures in many Hands. 
 
 filth that ever edged a sea-girt shore. If my fears were 
 great, the consternation of both the attendant Chinamen 
 was even 'greater, and if they had dared, would doubtless, 
 with the first impulse, have deserted their frail and 
 treacherous crafts rather than bear the brunt of the 
 irritated barbarian's wrath. But go they could not 
 without their boats ; their locomotion was stopped, and 
 with assumed submissive aspect they resigned themselves 
 to the force of circumstances. D. plunged and snorted; 
 never did war-horse, in all the glory of his strength, 
 or mired buffalo, with all his power, perform more 
 astonishing feats of prowess and agility. First one 
 leg and then the other was withdrawn, each in its turn 
 to sink deeper as weight was placed upon it to assist 
 in regaining the lost throne of eminence. Danger being 
 out of the question, I could only lie down and laugh 
 at the absurdity of the whole affair; nor for the life of 
 me could I do aught else. !N"ever in the course of my 
 life could I remember seeing so close an approach to 
 the perfection of low comedy. Protracted and violent 
 was the struggle, and when at length dear old D. had 
 regained his seat, the comicality was none the less, for 
 from head to foot, over face and hands, was the black, 
 slippery, ill-smelling matter, completely obscuring his 
 features, and hiding entirely the colour of his garments. 
 The cherished fancy of his brain, the possession of 
 innumerable wild fowl, had fled, and all the treasures of 
 a hunter's cupidity were now but vanity, the essence 
 of vanity. 
 
IVz/cl Duck Shooting. 195 
 
 What a spectacle did lie present, mud from head to 
 foot! Even his gun, the powder-flask and shot-belt 
 which were suspended around him, had so changed 
 their shape and appearance, that the most astute never 
 could have recognised them! There are some persons 
 so physically constikited that it is impossible for them 
 to suppress laughter when aught risible strikes their 
 fancy, and so it is with your humble servant. I should 
 have been extremely sorry to forfeit the friendship of 
 my friend, and I was aware that to be made a butt of 
 was his horror, and would probably cause him much 
 annoyance. Still, to witness his rotund figure, besmeared 
 countenance, and woeful expression, as he was propelled 
 towards the boat, was so ludicrous, so absurd, that I was 
 obliged to give way to my feelings. Old Neptune, grown 
 as hoary with sea-grass as a ship's bottom after a 
 five years' cruise, could not have figured in a more 
 comical light. 
 
 Of course our shooting for that forenoon was at an 
 end, and in no loquacious humour we retraced our way 
 to the "Lorcha." Poor D., being outraged at my want 
 of sympathy, disgusted at my heartlessness, and in a 
 bad temper with his own lack of skill and discretion, 
 brooded over his misfortunes, and nursed his wrath tiU 
 he should come across some one on whom to vent it. 
 As we approached the craft, our friends, who were seen 
 on deck, naturally anxious to learn of our success, 
 rose to receive us; but no sooner had their eyes rested 
 on the mud-stained sportsman, than peal after peal of 
 
196 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 laughter resounded, each more violent than its predecessor, 
 tUl both appeared on the verge of a fit. As their 
 hilarity increased so did D.'s wrath, tiU, unable to suppress 
 it any longer, he poured a volley of abuse on his Chinese 
 boy, who was assisting to unrobe him. However, D.'s 
 rage was like a summer shower, of short continuance; 
 for after he had undergone a good tubbing and change 
 of raiment, and imbibed a drink and lit a cigar, his jolly 
 old phiz was Uluminated with a smile, and as he narrated 
 all the particulars of the escapade, he laughed as heartily 
 as his listeners at the absurdity of the whole affair. 
 
 That afternoon I started alone to look for snipe on 
 the paddy-fields, and was most successful, for the game 
 was abundant and tame, the weather being mild, bright, 
 and warm. These enclosures are eminently suited for 
 snipe-shooting, as the ground is clear and unobstructed, 
 for each is small, and divided from the other by a flat 
 bank, on which the walking is good. As I advanced, 
 bird after bird flushed, of both the painted and common 
 species, tiU my game-bag was expanded to its most 
 capacious limits. As the evening drew on, several 
 bunches of teal passed within gun-shot, of which I was 
 able to make a good score, till I was ultimately obliged 
 to cease by the weight of my burden. The sun was 
 now setting, and admonished me that it was time to 
 return, and, as I turned my steps homewards, the view 
 which presented itself, illuminated by all the rich glow of 
 a tropical sunset, called me to a halt. The better to 
 appreciate its beauty, I rested upon a rock, and still 
 
Wild Dttck Shooting. 197 
 
 think I never enjoyed a more lovely panorama : — verdant, 
 well-cultivated land, with numerous hamlets of snow-white 
 cottages nestling under the giant foliage -covered branches 
 of many varieties of trees ; a still, placid bay, unrippled by 
 the most gentle breeze, formed the fore and middle ground; 
 while distant irregular mountain-peaks, marked by deep 
 contrast of light and shadow, composed the distance — the 
 whole forming a picture worthy the skill of any artist. 
 But still there was a want, a necessity not easy to be 
 supplied — no lowing herds of cattle, no happy groups 
 of children, no industrious farmer unhitching his 
 companion horses, or frugal housewife, or healthy 
 dairy-maid relieving the patient cows of their milky 
 stores, such as is seen at home, broke the monotony. 
 With all the gorgeousness of tropical flora, all the 
 brilliancy of tropical Ught, still on every eastern scene 
 there is a stamp of semi-barbarism, semi-civilisation that 
 caimot fail, in the eyes of aU, when we think of our 
 native land, to detract materially from the foreign picture, 
 unless the spectator be one of those unhappy beings whose 
 existence has been a blank or series of misfortunes, 
 inducing him to abhor all that may remind him of the 
 ties that bind the heart to home, nationality, and friends. 
 That evening, one of our crew, who had been on shore, 
 brought us the startling intimation that a piratical junk 
 was in the neighbourhood — ^that they were aware of our 
 presence, and intended paying us a visit during the night. 
 Of course, such a warning was not to be disregarded, and 
 steps were forthwith taken to afford us the best chances 
 
198 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 of making a successful defence. The neighbourhood bore 
 a bad character, and the conduct of the few natives with 
 whom we had come in contact plainly showed that their 
 feelings towards us were far from amicable. Moreover, 
 but a short time previously, a yacht belonging to a 
 wealthy mercantile house, on a trip from Macao, with 
 none but her Chinese crew on board, had been captured, 
 all the hands killed except one, the craft run ashore, 
 pillaged, and stripped of her copper ; and although every 
 exertion had been made by the gunboats, the marauders 
 were still at large, and were believed to reside in this 
 neighbourhood. After seeing that the watches were 
 properly set, and cautioning our crew against surprise — 
 for on them we had the greatest reliance, the inhabitants 
 of Hong-Kong and those of the coast, although of the 
 same nationality, being always at bitter enmity with each 
 other — we retired to our crib to reload and overhaul our 
 arms, that they might be in the most effective state if 
 called upon for service. With danger many become 
 reckless, and the prospect of using our guns on larger 
 game than wild fowl did not prevent us from passing 
 a joUy evening. The jovial cup went round and round, 
 and cigar after cigar was demolished, till the atmosphere 
 of the close cabin was so dense that the figures of 
 companions loomed big and indistinct, the smoke appearing 
 as if it might have been cut with a knife. AU went 
 merry as a wedding-bell, and half-an-hour more would have 
 placed us in the arms of Morpheus, when the shriU clear 
 voice of the watch on deck was heard challenging some 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 199 
 
 unknown intruder. With one impulse we all tumbled 
 up the companion to learn the cause of alarm, which 
 soon was obvious, for" about a hundred yards astern 
 loomed the figure of a large junk. Now whether this 
 was only a trader or a robber was doubtful, but time 
 would show. During this delay, D., who from age and 
 experience was acknowledged commander, instructed me 
 to look well to the masthead (a position always secured 
 on such occasions by a villain with a stink-pot — a piece 
 of crockery containing liquid fire which ignites when 
 thrown upon the deck), and if I could see a figure 
 there, to pepper him with both barrels of his heavy 
 six-bore gun, loaded with swan-drops. 
 
 Slowly and steadily the supposed foe advanced, till 
 within thirty paces, when she bouted ship at being 
 challenged, and lit a port fire. The light soon illuminated 
 both their deck and ours, giving a good view of the 
 numerical strength of both parties ; but whether . the 
 supposed foes were disappointed with our appearance, 
 or were not what we suspected, they gradually paid off 
 to the wind and rapidly disappeared from view. From 
 our ignorance of the language and manners of the 
 Celestials, it would be difficult to come to a conclusion 
 whether their intentions were hostile or not, but our crew 
 continued to insist that they were undoubted laUaloons 
 (pirates). 
 
 The excitement of this little incident had banished 
 sleep, so, instead of retiring, we determined to make a 
 night of it, the better to be prepared for another visit, 
 
200 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 or to be earlier ready for the morning shooting. Before 
 Jay broke, wild fowl were distinctly heard upon the 
 wing, and as a considerable change had taken place in 
 the atmosphere, indicated both by our own feelings and 
 m observable fall in the thermometer, sharp work was 
 sxpected. The couple who had gone up the water being 
 (veU pleased with their previous day's work, preferred 
 iheir former beat; so D.* and I started downwards, for 
 ;he bank near which we had killed the teaL On our way 
 s^e cut some rushes to form screens at the most favourable 
 stands. All this time, although day had scarcely yet 
 broken, flock after flock hurried past, but owing to the 
 uncertainty of the light, and the probable difficulty in 
 gathering the slain, we desisted from shooting. On 
 rounding the last point of land that severed us from 
 our ground, our patience was doubly rewarded, for 
 thousands of birds sat upon the water and beach, 
 pluming and dressing their feathers in conscious 
 security. Nor did they appear to regard our presence, 
 E'er many, and those closest to us, remained with 
 ;heir heads under their wings, dreaming doubtlessly 
 jf far-distant northern haunts upon the banks of the 
 Ajnoor, or . others of the numerous rivers that pursue 
 ;heir solitary course through the sparsely populated 
 plains of Siberia towards the Arctic seas. The boat 
 aaving been rapidly propelled forward, the oars were 
 
 * I am sorry to say that D. now sleeps his last sleep iu the Happy 
 Galley, Hong-Kong. 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 201 
 
 unshipped. A preconcerted signal had been agreed upon 
 for opening fire. Foot by foot we steadily approached, 
 till but thirty-five paces intervened, when, each aiming 
 low, our two right-hand barrels responded to the pressure 
 on the trigger, cutting a lane through the unconscious 
 broad-biUs, and as they rose off the water almost 
 with the voice of thunder, each left-hand barrel repeated 
 the performance, bringing down, in all attitudes, maimed 
 and wounded. Over thirty birds fell to this fusilade, 
 and among their numbers was to be found almost every 
 variety, from the handsome-plumaged widgeon and 
 teal to the larger mallard. 
 
 Except on American prairies, in autumn and spring, 
 at the periods of migration, I know of no place where 
 such fine duck-shooting can be obtained as here; but 
 the preference, even if the numbers should be much 
 less, must be given to America, for few of our race can 
 continue to breathe the noxious miasmas that night 
 and morning arise from the paddy-fields, without his 
 constitution and health becoming seriously impaired. 
 In fact, two of the gentlemen who then shot with me 
 found premature graves, and, in each instance, their 
 medical attendants affirmed that they had contracted 
 the disease which had deprived them of life through 
 their too frequent trips in pursuit of their favourite 
 sport. 
 
 Our work commenced successfully, and how often does 
 a good d&ywt tend to make us continue to perform well! 
 Both shot better than usual, and it soon appeared that 
 
202 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 we had but to point our guns in order to cut down the 
 swift-winged game. Later in the day, finding that the 
 boat alarmed the birds, we placed our screens, and 
 dismissed the boat to wait tUl wanted. The poodle that I 
 have mentioned did excellent work, entering quite into 
 the spirit of the sport, and appeared perfectly delighted 
 at the fun of retrieving and wooling the dead, dying, 
 and cripples. As time advanced, the birds became more 
 wary, and frequently would alight just beyond gunshot. 
 However, I adopted a plan which succeeded admirably — 
 id, est, toling the game up.* The poodle's greatest pleasure 
 appeared to be in carrying stones which had been spit 
 on, more particularly if large, and almost impossible to 
 get in her mouth. Now this little eccentricity I turn^ 
 to advantage, for I kept her busy on the beach, lugging, 
 hauling, and fetching. The movements of the dog 
 evidently excited the curiosity of the ducks, for when 
 they would perceive her, they would bunch together, 
 and swim towards her, curious to see what aU the fuss 
 was about, nor would they halt tUl within easy range. 
 Again and again was this device practised, tiU nearly 
 two-score birds had been Idlled. But the dog's retrieving 
 qualities were soon tested too severely. A cormorant, 
 which is about the size of a goose, and provided with 
 a most formidable hooked bill, with which it can bite 
 most severely, came skimming by. With the same 
 feelings which cause the sportsman always to shoot at a 
 
 * A common method in America, and frequently very successful. 
 
Wild Duck Shooting. 203 
 
 hawk I gave him a barrel, and tumbled him over with 
 a broken wing. The poodle was sent to fetch him, 
 and after a long chase succeeded in collaring the bird. 
 But the cormorant didn't see it in the same light, and 
 bravely resisted. Both wings and bUl were brought into 
 play; feathers and wool flew; the dog was determined, 
 and so was the bird. A more perfect example of "puU 
 devil pull baker" scarcely could be imagined. Krst 
 one had the advantage, then the other, till Master Dog 
 succeeded in getting the bird by the neck, and triumphantly 
 landed him. But one pill was a dose; the poodle had 
 never previously been so roughly handled, and all my 
 future efforts ever after failed in making her carry aught 
 that bore feathers. 
 
 On joining my companion, I found he had done 
 almost as well as myself, for conjointly we could number 
 over seventy birds; and as the sun was getting too 
 powerful to be pleasant, we started for our lorcha, 
 which we soon gained, having the assistance of a 
 favourable tide and wind. On getting on board we met 
 our friends, who had also done well, -and, as our stock 
 of game was as great as we could make use of, without 
 a single demur we hoisted anchor and set sail for 
 Hong-Kong, which we safely readied, in time to enjoy 
 another social evening and fight our battle over 
 again. 
 
 Persons residing in or visiting Hong-Kong can always 
 enjoy in winter a good day's duck-shooting if they take 
 a trip through the Broadway, or Southern passage. 
 
204 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 which leads up to Canton. So great is the quantity 
 of birds to be found there, that I have been informed 
 on no less authority than that of a naval officer once 
 serving on that station, that he killed over a hundred 
 birds at one discharge of a small carronade loaded with 
 duck-shot. 
 
ChI PTEE XXIV. 
 
 FIRST HUEDLE RACE IN JAPAN. 
 
 "T ET go the anchor," when sung out by a cheery 
 " voice, is most melodious; and seldom are the 
 words unwelcome. On the occasion to which I allude 
 they were not, and as the chain rattled out through the 
 hawsehole, as if in echoing response to the Commander's 
 voice, making the ship reverberate from stem to stern, I 
 beUeve there was not one soul on board that did not feel 
 thankful. And why? Twenty-four hours previously we 
 had been tossing about off Cape Itsu — in fact, between 
 it and a dangerous archipelago of islands, of whose 
 peculiarities we had no chart ; while the wind was raising 
 as big a rumpus as it is possible for it to get up — 
 indeed, blowing a regular typhoon, accompanied by such 
 torrents of rain as are only known to the visitors of the 
 tropics. During the day we had passed up from the 
 outer to the inner bay of Yeddo. Previous to this trip, 
 I had sworn by the beauty -of the Dardanelles, vowed 
 
206 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 by the grandeur of the Bosphorus ; but all my previous 
 expectations — ay, though impressed upon me by such 
 language as issues from the matchless Byron — fell to 
 the ground when I beheld the constantly changing 
 panorama of this termination to our voyage. Can I 
 describe it ? — I will try. The foreground of the picture 
 was composed of the most placid cerulean-blue water, 
 the intermediate of the most variegated and beautiful 
 woodlands, intersected by numerous openings, all 
 rejoicing in an apparently abundant harvest, while superbly, 
 magnificent and ever-beauteous Mount Fusiyama backed 
 the distance, distinct, but soft in outline, regular in shape, 
 as if the production of some giant mathematician. The 
 summit sides were intersected with frosted rays of silver 
 (the snows remaining from the previous winter), which 
 looked like the airiest and brightest plumes that ever 
 graced the hat of fair lady or gallant general. You may 
 be a wanderer from youth to the age allotted man to live ; 
 yes, you may travel the world from pole to pole, visit 
 every nook, every corner of this earth, and I doubt much 
 whether a more beauteous, more grandly magnificent 
 scene can be beheld from shipboard than such as is seen 
 as you pass the narrows that lead into the inner bay of 
 Yeddo ! 
 
 Scarcely had the reverberated echoes of the descending 
 anchor died away, when a host of European visitors 
 arrived on board ; the majority sought for news. A small 
 clique sought me, and what for? — to get me to act as 
 clerk of the course at a proposed race-meeting, the 
 
First Hurdle Race in Japan. 207 
 
 first ever held in Japan, and also to ride a horse. To 
 the first duty I readily consented, to the second it is 
 possible I should have objected, but when the petitioner 
 was a big-hearted American — Lieutenant Haversham, 
 Flag-lieutenant to the United States fleet — who had, 
 under the instructions of the gallant Commodore Tatnall, 
 then commanding the American fleet in Chinese waters, 
 assisted to tow many of my countrymen from under 
 the destructive fire of the Taku forts, when through 
 treachery our little fleet was so sadly discomfited — I 
 struck my opposition, and promised to do the best in 
 my power to bring his horse in a winner. 
 
 In Japan — it was so then, I believe it is so now, and 
 trust it may ever be the case — the best and warmest of 
 kindly feelings existed between the American residents and 
 the representatives of my own land. The race-meeting had 
 been determined on by both nationalities, and our kind, 
 good-hearted consul at Kanagawa, once an of&cer in the 
 Guards, had been selected for judge. The ground chosen 
 was only a short way from Yokohania. The Japanese 
 authorities had assisted in laying out the course, and, 
 considering the time and opportunities, had succeeded in 
 making a suitable place of operations in no way 
 discreditable to their ingenuity and the occasion. 
 
 The early races of the meeting passed off to the 
 satisfaction of all. The Japanese officials kept the ground 
 free from intrusion, and entered with the greatest pleasure 
 into the sports. It might be three o'clock, perhaps later, 
 when the saddling bell sounded for the grand performance 
 
208 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 — that in which I was to figure — nothing less than a. 
 hurdle race, with about eight flights in a mile. Up to 
 this period I had not seen my mount. Still, I felt no 
 uneasiness, for I was assured that he was a good one, 
 who only wanted some one on his back to make him 
 go, and that with such he could jump anything, from a 
 five-barred gate upwards. The competitors, niae or ten 
 in number, had assembled; their costumes were more 
 varied than picturesque, but stUl my nag had not 
 put in an appearance. Better late than never; at length 
 he came, and, shades of Eosinante, what a brute! 
 not out of condition certainly, but such legs, and as 
 long as if they had been supplied with stilts from les 
 LaTides. Moreover, he was as light in the body and 
 girthing as any weedy screw that ever looked through 
 a halter at home, while his temper was such that the 
 horse-coolies who led him were kept constantly on 
 the qui vive. 
 
 To mount took me several minutes, and I doubt if 
 I should have succeeded, but for the application of a 
 twitch. I tried a preliminary canter, but found it no go, 
 and inwardly I wished my acquaintance — I won't say 
 what or where. In the meantime I had taken measure 
 of my antagonists. Of one only had I anything to fear ; 
 his mount was far superior to my own; the remainder I 
 expected would kiss mother earth at the first fence. My 
 conjecture was correct, as the result proved. 
 
 The starter tried to marshal us in Hne. I had drawn 
 second place from the inside, but to occupy it was the 
 
First Hurdle Race in yapan. 209 
 
 difficulty. I made one or two attempts, and in doing so 
 endangered all I came near, so at last I retired to the 
 rear. When doing so, my steed seemed to think that he 
 had gallantly acquitted himself, and, as a reward, should 
 be allowed to go home. It was no use my differing in 
 opinion; the Latchfords had not the desired effect; the 
 more I pHed them the harder he backed. He had got 
 his legs in for the retrograde action, and would not exercise 
 them otherwise. At length I got two horse-coolies, each 
 armed with a telling bamboo, to take Eosinante by the 
 head, and they were further instructed, when the flag 
 fell, to lay on the beast's rump with all the power 
 that their biceps possessed. It was my only chance to 
 get under way. The first hurdle was a rasper, stiff and 
 strong as logs and wattles could make it; but by this 
 time, so thoroughly had my determination been aroused, 
 that I believe I would have rushed him at a chevaux 
 de frise. 
 
 The flag fell, the ruck started, and, bang! bang! went 
 the canes over my steed's extremities. WeU under his 
 flanks I got my spurs, and if nothing more suffered, the 
 hide certainly did. My nag thought the locality 
 considerably too warm, so with a buck jump and a 
 couple of lashes at the coolies he followed his competitors. 
 
 How the first fence thinned out the aspirants for turf 
 honours was beautiful to behold ; only one got over safe, 
 the one I had previously supposed the most dangerous. 
 At the jump I rushed; the vixen rose at it, and then 
 appeared to change his mind. The impetus, however, 
 
210 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 took the fore quarters over, while the hind ones remained 
 on the obstacle. With hand, spur, and whip I got him 
 over, very much, I think, to the brute's surprise, for as 
 soon as all four legs were again on terra firma, he struck 
 out into a good wholesome gallop, requiring all my 
 power to keep him together. The sole survivor and only 
 remaining antagonist was at least a hundred yards ahead. 
 The ground was soft — very soft, I may say — and his nag 
 was going with a slack rein, yawing about like a ship 
 at sea, the rider to be found anywhere between his 
 mount's ears and tail. The second, third, and fourth 
 hurdles were jumped by both successfully. The gap I 
 did not try to close — ^to do so would have smothered 
 any chance I possessed; therefore I put my trust in 
 Providence, and hoped for squalls. As my antagonist 
 approached the second last hurdle, I saw him using 
 the steel freely and his horse's tail go up.* He reached 
 the jump, bungled, and nearly feU over it. My mount 
 was still fresh, for I had kept him well together. This 
 hurdle I got over swimmingly, which I hoped the foe 
 would fail in doing when he came at the last. 
 Providence had so ordained it, for if ever a man came 
 a cropper and made a breach, such was done on this 
 occasion, and I cantered through the gap up to the 
 winning-post before my adversary had wiped the stars 
 out of his eyes; for he had got such a purl as 
 previous experience had told me generally illuminated 
 
 * Generally an indication of exhaustion. 
 
First Hurdle Race in Japan. 211 
 
 our optics with an extensive view of the planetary 
 system. 
 
 I was glad to win the race for two reasons — firstly, 
 that I might hand over to the owner the purse; and, 
 secondly, that my reputation as a steeplechase rider 
 should not suffer in the eyes of a crowd of griffins. 
 
CHAPTEE XXV. 
 
 VOYAGE THROUGH THE JAPANESE INLAND SEAS. 
 
 UNFOETUNATE indeed must be the man who has 
 no memories to recall of unalloyed happiness! In 
 the calendar of my life, no part so thoroughly deserves 
 to be marked with a red letter as the months I passed 
 in the realms of the Tycoon. 
 
 There are few more beautiful views to be seen than 
 surround the beholder who stands upon the deck of a 
 vessel anchored off Kanagawa. To the right extends a 
 straight line of coast in the direction of Yeddo, thickly 
 wooded almost to the water's edge, and closely dotted 
 with the clean, neat, and picturesque residences of the 
 inhabitants. To the left the coast-line sweeps round 
 with abrupt curve to Yokohama; green bluffs, dotted 
 with foliage, giving a charm to the scene, which is 
 heightened to perfection by the glorious towering summit 
 of Mount Fusiyama, grand in its size, magnificent in its 
 
Through the yapanese Inland Seas. 213 
 
 altitude. Like a potentate, it appears to rule all the 
 surrounding country. 
 
 From a distance Fusiyama looks as if it were a solitary 
 excrescence in the centre of a vast plain; but such is 
 not the case, for numerous hills, which elsewhere would 
 be worthy of attention, help to make portions of the 
 base of this wonderfuUy-shaped sacred mountain. 
 
 The first time I saw this mountain was under most 
 advantageous and peculiar circumstances. Our vessel 
 having been caught in a typhoon the day previously, 
 as we were doubling Cape Itsu, the violence of the 
 wind, the near approach of night, and our captain's 
 ignorance of the rocks, currents, and islands that 
 abounded in the vicinity (for in those days no trustworthy 
 charts of this coast were to be obtained), induced him 
 to order the ship to be put about, so as to obtain an 
 offing till favoured with daylight. And well it was that 
 he did so, for the winds and waves held high revels, and 
 the rain descended as if the flood-gates of heaven had 
 been opened. Sail after sail was taken in, neither 
 watch obtained their allotted period below, and our 
 noble vessel strained and groaned under the severe 
 lashing which the disturbed elements vouchsafed her. 
 
 With little warning, except a sudden fall in the 
 barometer, the storm commenced, and it terminated as 
 abruptly, for when day broke the wind had died out, 
 the waters had subsided, and the atmosphere was unusually 
 clear. We had not undressed during the night, as our 
 position was one of considerable danger, so the first faint 
 
214 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 lines in the east that ushered in the rising of the sun 
 found me on the poop-deck for the purpose of enjoying 
 a cheroot and a cup of coffee. 
 
 As the sombre shades of night chased each other to 
 the westward, and the sun had nearly approached the 
 eastern horizon, before us, on our port-bow, appeared 
 the summit of Mount Fusiyama — the base being wreathed 
 in clouds. Its colour was of the palest blue, except 
 where snow rested in the ravines; its shape a triangle, 
 with the upper point squarely cut off. A staff officer's 
 cocked hat, with its numerous white, streaming plumes 
 floating from the crown, is the nearest simile I can think 
 of, to convey to the reader a good idea of this distant 
 charming vision. 
 
 After spending some weeks at Kanagawa, where 
 pleasure had predominated over work, the yamoon of our 
 Consul being my principal residence, I received orders 
 to proceed to Nagasaki, on board one of the P. and 0. 
 steam-vessels chartered by Government. Instead of our 
 following the coast, the inland sea was to be our route, 
 and three Japanese pilots were sent on board by the 
 Custom House to superintend our navigation. One or 
 two Dutch and English men-of-war had previously 
 passed through this landlocked channel; but with these 
 exceptions, we were about to visit localities unknown 
 to Europeans. With break of day we got under 
 steam, rejoicing at the prospect of adventure and 
 novelty. On the bridge, calm and serious with the 
 responsibility of their position, sat the three subjects 
 
Through the yapanese Inland Seas. 215 
 
 of the Emperor; between them rested their compass 
 and their charts. 
 
 The outer and inner bay of Yeddo is connected by a 
 channel much resembling the Bosphorus, with the 
 exception that the line of shore is not so precipitous and 
 rugged, while the vegetation is of a deeper green, and 
 more abundant. The bluffs that margin the waters of 
 the grand Mississippi before its junction with the turbid 
 Missouri have often recalled to my mind this far eastern 
 locality. On gaining the entrance to the outer bay, our 
 stem was pointed to Simoda, where we arrived in a few 
 hours and came to anchor. As our stay was uncertain, 
 none were able to leave the ship; but abundant 
 amusement was obtained by pistol practice at the 
 numerous divers that were constantly floated past in the 
 tideway. 
 
 Two sharks, about eight or niae feet long, honoured 
 us with their presence, and appeared carefully to examine 
 the ship, which, no doubt, they regarded as a new 
 species of a sea-monster with which they had no previous 
 acquaintance. But their inspection was brought to an 
 abrupt termination, for one of my companions gave the 
 larger a pill from his Colt's revolver, which struck near 
 the junction of the vertebrae with the head, thus at the 
 same moment terminating its curiosity and its life. 
 
 From the appearance of these fish, I should pronounce 
 them to be the common blue shark, sometimes seen in 
 our home waters, and frequently to be met with along 
 the Atlantic seaboard of the American continent. 
 
216 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 The following morning, with a fresh and fair breeze, 
 we tripped our anchor and headed for Cape Itsu. The 
 nearer we approached that inhospitable, bleak, ironbound 
 headland the fresher it blew, and when we had at length 
 doubled it, on altering our course to the south-east, we 
 found ourselves opposed to a heavy gale, and a most 
 uncomfortable, short, tumbling head sea. Moreover, the 
 barometer continued to fall rapidly — an indication that 
 an unpleasant night was before us. Hereupon the pilots, 
 beckoning the captain to them with various pantomimic 
 gestures, gave him to understand that shelter had better 
 be sought. Our course was now changed several points 
 more to the east, sufficient fore-and-aft canvas was set to 
 steady the vessel, and in a couple of hours we were 
 approaching what appeared the ugliest piece of 
 coast-navigation I had ever seen. The Japanese stOl 
 coolly retained their positions on the bridge ; not a word 
 escaped them, and nought but an occasional wave of 
 the hand to the men at the wheel indicated that they 
 were possessed of life. On our part, all felt most 
 xincomfortable ; doubts and fears would constantly arise 
 in our minds lest these swarthy Orientals might be 
 mistaken as to locality, or were purposely running the 
 ship on shore. 
 
 Half-a-mHe did not intervene between us and a long, 
 apparently unbroken line of sunken rocks, the loftier of 
 which would occasionally show their heads through the 
 hollow succeeding an unusually large wave. Closer and 
 closer we approached, and just as we imagined destruction 
 
Through the Japanese Inland Seas. 217 
 
 was imminent, a clear channel of blue water became 
 apparent, through which we threaded our way, immediately 
 afterwards entering between two bluff headlands, one 
 of which was crowned with a detached rock, much 
 resembling a martello tower, into a beautiful, calm, narrow 
 bay, running quite a couple of miles inland.* At the 
 upper end of this bay, shut in among green hills, and 
 close to a most picturesque village, imbedded in trees 
 and embellished by a handsome temple, we dropped 
 anchor. It would be difficult to say whether the surprise 
 of the peaceful inhabitants at our appearance, or our 
 own at the sequestered tranquillity of the pretty spot 
 we had reached, was the greater. Evidently our advent 
 was regarded with great suspicion, for no visitors came 
 near us till evening. 
 
 In the meantime I went ashore with my gun, landing 
 several hundred yards from the village. Along the 
 margin, in the wash of the miniature waves, were feeding 
 numerous flocks of waders, several of which I kUled, but 
 without finding a new species. I remained for some 
 minutes on the margin of a stream, close to where it 
 entered the sea, admiring and amused by a colony of 
 land-crabs. Immediately on my approach, they would 
 retreat to their holes, in a few moments returning to see 
 if the intruder had departed. These small crustacese are 
 evidently largely gifted with curiosity; they are of a 
 
 * The entrance to this bay in more than one respect reminded me of the 
 entrance to Balaklava Harbour. 
 
218 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 most active and quarrelsome disposition, and possessed 
 of insatiable appetites. 
 
 On ascending to the higher grounds, which were 
 covered with beautiful dwarf azaleas in abundant blossom, 
 I much regretted being without a dog, as I saw plenty 
 of convincing proofs that pheasants were numerous, and 
 probably then lying hid in the timber that grew 
 along the ravines and watercourses. However, a frankolin 
 gave me an easy shot, but so unexpectedly and rapidly 
 did it flush, that I missed it with both barrels. 
 
 After a wearisome climb I reached the summit of the 
 nearest hill. The view was grand in the extreme. 
 Beneath my feet the angry sea, white with foam, lashed 
 the iron-bound coast, whUe behind the undulating lands 
 were cultivated with a care and neatness that at once 
 predicted abundant crops as the probable result of good 
 husbandry. 
 
 The few inhabitants that I met, who previously had 
 possibly never seen a European, regarded me with 
 awe and astonishment. One whom I tried to ask for a 
 light refused to hold communication with me, but slowly 
 retreated backwards, muttering something unintelligible 
 between his teeth, and finally made rapidly off, stopping 
 every moment to convince himself, either that I was not 
 following, or that he was not dreaming. 
 
 On my return homewards, close to a spring, I killed 
 a frankolin.. The sandy edges around the water bore 
 proofs that some of the deer family were in the habit 
 of coming there to slake their thirst. Near the confines 
 
Through the yapanese Inland Seas. 219 
 
 of cultivation, where the arable and wild land joined, 
 a cock copper pheasant crossed me, and dropped into 
 some millet. As I did not feel justified in trampling 
 down the grain, I could not get him again on the wing, 
 so unwillingly relinquished the search. 
 
 On arriving at the ship, I found it surrounded with 
 native boats of every shape and size, and filled with 
 hosts of occupants of both sexes, aU apparently decked 
 in holiday garb. One of the pilots had been on shore, 
 and had evidently reported favourably of us. Hence 
 this influx of visitors. 
 
 After considerable palaver, some of the notables were 
 induced to cross the gangway. Their manners were 
 dignified, yet gentle and unobtrusive; and their 
 astonishment at the vessel's magnitude, at her engines, 
 and, lastily, at our saloon and cabin, was more than 
 funny — it was serious. Half-an-hour's sojourn convinced 
 them that nothing was to be dreaded from us, so that 
 the tabooing we had previously suffered from was removed, 
 and all that were so disposed were permitted to come 
 on board. They were an excellently behaved company, 
 for though on every hand were ranged what to them 
 were wonders, still all were satisfied with looking, and 
 abstained from touching. Would my own countrymen, 
 under such circumstances, have been equally considerate ? 
 
 The gilt buttons of our military clothing particularly 
 attracted the young ladies. Women are as fond of 
 finery in Japan as at home, and never was brilliant ring 
 coveted more by city beUe than were these ornaments 
 
220 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 of our costume. Having more than a dozen spare ones 
 below, I distributed them to the best-looking. The 
 treasures were accepted with a timid, bashful grace, 
 while a brilliant blush suffused their faces. These fair ones, 
 particularly when young, are very pretty, and not nearly 
 so dark as the sterner sex. How they laughed and giggled 
 as we showed them different articles of our apparel, 
 and when a glove was placed on one of their hands, 
 all fairly screamed with pleasure ! The dress of the 
 Japanese women, both north and south, is almost the 
 same ; the richness of embroidery, material, and ornaments 
 denoting their rank. It is strange, but nevertheless true, 
 that the costume of our "girl of the period" much 
 reminds me of the millinery fashions prevailing in that 
 distant archipelago. 
 
 Bottles, tins, in which meats and condiments had been 
 preserved, were welcome gifts, a wine-glass or tumhler 
 was a most valuable present, and with such odds and 
 ends all went away loaded, not forgetting to leave in 
 return little souvenirs quite as valuable in our eyes. 
 Unluckily the assassinations of Europeans that have 
 occurred in this distant land have given stay-at-home 
 persons the impression that the Japanese are treacherous 
 and bloodthirsty. My experience has taught me to 
 believe exactly the reverse, for, although they are proud, 
 high-minded, and recklessly brave, they are kind, 
 hospitable, and gentle. And I believe that, when they 
 have used their weapons against their western visitors, 
 some imaginary insult, or some mistake resulting from 
 
Through the Japanese Inland Seas. 221 
 
 ignorance of their habits, has been the cause of 
 provocation. English and Americans, as a rule, are too 
 prone to treat all with dark skins as inferiors, and 
 therefore browbeat, buUy, and even strike those whom 
 Nature has thus painted. Such I know to be the case, 
 and have on more than one occasion been surprised to 
 see the admirable command of temper the injured persons 
 have displayed. 
 
 Leaving our shelter at daybreak, by midday the 
 estuary that commands the entrance into the midland 
 seas was reached. Bungo Channel is, I believe, the name 
 it bears. Many whales were seen during the run, and 
 report says that it is a favourite breeding-place for these 
 mammals. 
 
 As the land gradually closed in, cultivation and 
 numerous villages became apparent, and, as far as we 
 could judge, prosperity and happy peaceful homes were 
 scattered far and wide. How different is this from 
 China ! All the result of the labour of man's hand there 
 is in a state of decay, speaking of past grandeur; here 
 all is in perfect order, clearly telling of present greatness. 
 
 In Japan, agricultural implements may be more 
 rude and primitive than in Europe, their invention and 
 manufacture less complicated and highly finished; still, 
 they are suited to the wants of the population, and as 
 they know no better, they are satisfied. As they have 
 within their reach the summit of their ambition, we 
 have a right to expect that they are happy. Eor my 
 own part, I believe them to be as happy and contented 
 
222 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 a population as is anywhere to be found" on the face of 
 the earth. 
 
 Another characteristic which cannot fail to strike the 
 stranger is their extreme cleanliness. All classes appear 
 equally to love washing, and to practise it. Even the 
 coolies and lowest grades invariably looked clean. Their 
 last work, when the labour of the day terminates, is 
 to wash off the perspiration and filth that results from 
 their toil. 
 
 While on deck, watching with pleasure the ever- 
 changing panorama, my attention was called by the 
 boatswain to a scene I had frequently heard of, but never 
 before witnessed. In fact, previous to this day, I had 
 believed that such only existed in the productive 
 imagination of lovers of the marvellous. It was a 
 contest between a whale and some threshers. I do not 
 say thresher-sharks, because I believe the fish I speak of 
 and the well-known species which bears that name are 
 different. 
 
 The sailor's yarn goes on to say that the sword-fish 
 and thresher enter into an alliance, hunting in couples. 
 When these allies fall in with the whale, he of the sharp 
 nose pokes the unhappy monster up from below, while 
 every time the unfortunate blubber-coated gentleman 
 comes to the surface, the thresher, springing from the 
 water, falls upon his back. Thus, between the two, the 
 persecuted whale is forced to disgorge his food, on which 
 the unprincipled colleagues feed. 
 
 The scene I beheld was certainly sufi&ciently similar to 
 
Through the yapanese Inland Seas. 223 
 
 permit the fabrication of a more extraordinary story. 
 But we were too far off to witness the details, which 
 must have been well worthy of the observation of all 
 enquirers into the minutiae of the economy of animal 
 life. 
 
 The entrance to the Inland Sea is apparently well 
 fortified. The smoothness and landlocked appearance 
 of the water within make it resemble one of our Scotch 
 lakes. Several of the views, looking through vistas of 
 well-wooded islands, were really beautiful, and the lofty 
 mountains in every direction, softened by climate and 
 distance, made a charming background. 
 
 At sunset we anchored in front of a large town, 
 densely populated, with numerous handsome yamoons 
 surrounded by trees close to the shore. Half the 
 population appeared out for a holiday, for the water 
 was covered with boats, all the occupants being in gala 
 dress. Few minutes elapsed after the anchor was down 
 before we were surrounded by the astonished crowd, who 
 advanced closer and closer, tUl unfortunately the engineer 
 permitted the escape of the waste steam, which so 
 intimidated all, that the most ludicrous scene of confusion 
 occurred in their efforts to gain the shore. 
 
 The next day, under weigh by an early hour, we 
 recommenced threading new intricacies and beholding 
 fresh beauties. Towns and hamlets were scattered on 
 every side, while large junks floated by or lay at anchor. 
 I think we are still very ignorant of the resources and 
 population of Japan, and that it is possible, by a closer 
 
224 Adventures in many Lands, 
 
 contact with them, for us to learn, from this great eastern 
 people, much which might he of benefit to our 
 over-populated island. The town we next anchored at 
 to spend the night must have been inhabited by a branch 
 lodge of the far-famed Eollicking Eams. Off they came 
 in scores to greet us, chanting their impressive songs to 
 the time of the scullers who propelled their boats.* 
 Many of them had grog with them, which was willingly 
 tendered for our consumption; still, although saki is not 
 a bad tipple, our Japanese friends showed a marked 
 preference for what we had. They kept going and 
 returning till so late an hour, that prudence forbade 
 any more visitors being received. Long after midnight 
 1 heard a party on shore singing, not "We won't go 
 home till morning," but, as my imagination told me, 
 a correspondingly festive ditty, suited to the longitude 
 of Japan. 
 
 During the remainder of our journey, the same scenes 
 of loveliness, the same hospitable receptions by the 
 people, were repeated, so that we were all fascinated 
 with Japan and her inhabitants. And when anchor was 
 dropped in Nagasaki Bay, I can safely venture to assert 
 there was not one on board who did not wish to have 
 the same cruise over again. 
 
 Before leaving this highly-favoured and charming 
 country, I wiU mention that many of our evenings were 
 spent in witnessing our horse-coolies wrestle. They had 
 
 * Boats are always sculled in Japan, not rowed. 
 
T^hrough the yapanese Inland Seas. 225 
 
 built a ring, a little larger than and much resembling 
 a cockpit, which they floored with sand, and in this they 
 performed their deeds of prowess. 
 
 Having several Devonshire and Cornwall men with 
 me, I induced those that professed a knowledge of this 
 art to enter the lists. They did so, and always were 
 thrown; and it was done with such apparent ease, and 
 so invariably by antagonists less than themselves, that I 
 actually imagined that our countrymen did not exert 
 themselves. At length I could stand it no longer. 
 Determined to do credit to my race, I entered the 
 arena as a combatant. For a long time no foe offered. 
 Afterwards I found my rank was the objection. 
 However, after much palaver, a little fellow — very little 
 indeed — was coaxed in. Numerous were his salaams, 
 expressive of the honour I, a Yaconin, was about to do 
 him in accepting him for an antagonist. 
 
 Wishing with all my heart that this mosquito of a 
 
 fellow had been twice the size, we embraced. With 
 
 but little exertion I threw him. Again we laid hold of 
 
 each other for a second trial. The tables, however, 
 
 were turned, and I found myself sprawling on mother 
 
 earth without knowing how I got there. A third time 
 
 the second performance was repeated, and I retired 
 
 crestfallen, while my successful adversary carefully 
 
 brushed off from my clothes every speck of dust, and 
 
 mumbled unintelligible words expressive of the honour 
 
 he had received. 
 
 I now feel convinced that this little creature permitted 
 p 
 
226 
 
 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 hoping that 
 urge any more 
 
 me to throw him on the first occasion, 
 I would then be satisfied, and not 
 trials. 
 
 Possessed of the greatest admiration for Japan and the 
 Japanese, I predict they wUl yet rank among the most 
 enlightened nations of the earth. 
 
CHAPTEE XXVI. 
 
 EL DORADO. 
 
 CALIFOENIA, of which Saa Francisco is the mercantile 
 capital, is so much changed of late, that the reader 
 must not go there now with the expectation of beholding 
 the scenes that frequently occurred a few years back. 
 
 The discovery of gold in any part of the world has 
 always had the effect of drawing together crowds 
 of the dissolute, idle, and "ne'er-do-wells." Ballarat, in 
 Australia, passed through an ordeal simUar to that of San 
 Francisco, in California. Nor can this be wondered at, 
 when it is known that the gold fever invariably first seizes 
 the indigent of every nationality. 
 
 Because California is a portion of America, I would 
 not for a moment have the reader to imagine that the 
 education and proclivities of the people of the United 
 States have anything to do with the reckless and anti-law 
 abiding scenes that have taken place on the Pacific slope. 
 
 Commerce was prosperous, gold was plentiful, new 
 
228 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 " leads " were daily reported, and the influx of immigrants 
 into this El Dorado was immense, at the date of my visit. 
 Money was so abundant, that it was no unusual thing to 
 see a pinch of gold dust tendered for admission at a 
 theatre door. The fever of excitement ran high, and 
 gambling became an overruling passion with a large 
 portion of the community. Having no intention of 
 remaining in San Francisco, I only made such a 
 stay as would enable me to procure necessaries that 
 were absolutely required for carrying out my future 
 projects. 
 
 Against gambling I would warn aU. I have been guilty 
 of the vice, and have repented my folly. Do, therefore, 
 as I recommend, not as I have done. 
 
 One evening, when the performance was over at the 
 theatre, wishing for further excitement, as the night was yet 
 early, I consented to go with a friend to a gambling-house 
 which received a large amount of patronage from the 
 heterogeneous population. Faro was the game ; and after 
 witnessing the proceedings for some minutes, I made a bet 
 and won. Again and again the operation was repeated 
 with like success. Luck evidently appeared on my side ; 
 and ere I rose from the table, I was the winner of a 
 considerable sum. I retired with my gains, and next 
 evening returned to the same work. I was not successful 
 on this occasion; and as one or two disputes had taken 
 place, I resigned my seat, but remained as a spectator. 
 In the same room where faro was being played, a select 
 few were indulging in a favourite American game 
 
El Dorado. 229 
 
 called " poker." The players were of strongly contrasted 
 appearance. One was handsome, and sufficiently 
 aristocratic-looking to represent the oldest Anglo-Saxon 
 family; another, olive-hrown in complexion, might have 
 sprung from the Hidalgos of old Spain ; a third had 
 "villain" stamped upon his countenance, while the rest 
 were more commonplace, or possessed less distinguished 
 characteristics. A remark made by one of the party induced 
 me to overlook their play. A short stay informed me that 
 the ill-favoured person was winning. His manner at once 
 told that he was in better society than he was accustomed 
 to. Again and again his gains were drawn in by him, and 
 some vulgar joke or a proposal to stand drinks followed 
 each of these proceedings. To a casual observer, all 
 apparently were satisfied ; still I observed a sterner 
 expression settling on the face of the handsome .contestant. 
 Once or twice he made remarks on the provoking 
 pertinacity of adverse luck ; yet I must say that he lost 
 his money apparently without regret, and with the most 
 gentlemanly sangfroid. 
 
 My interest had become excited, and consequently I 
 felt inclined to see the affair out, when to my astonishment 
 I saw the person whose appearance had elicited my 
 interest, with a rapidity that was surprising, drive through 
 and pin to the table with a large clasp-knife the hand of 
 the common-looking fellow who had been previously 
 winning. At the same instant a revolver was pointed at 
 the head of the cheat (for such he was proved to be), and 
 a wholesome piece of advice given him that, if he 
 
230 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 attempted to stir or draw a weapon, his brains would 
 spatter the wall. 
 
 In a moment all was uproar and confusion, all the 
 occupants of the room rushing towards the point where, 
 like statues, stood the principals. On the face of one was 
 stamped cool determiaation to do all he said, on the 
 features of the other flitted vindictive malice, accompanied 
 hy spasms of pain, arising from the wound he had 
 received. 
 
 The owner of the establishment, who in turn officiated 
 as barman, banker, or croupier, was a powerful, burly, 
 bullet -headed fellow. He is still, I believe, alive. With 
 the voice of a bull, ferocity and decision being equally 
 apparent in it, he laconically asked, " What's the cause of 
 this muss?" "Search this blackguard's sleeve — that of 
 the hand I hold pinned to the table ; the vUlain has been 
 cheating aU night, tiU I obtained this opportunity of 
 exposing him ! " quietly but firmly uttered the fair-haired 
 stranger. True enough, two cards were found ; indignation 
 became rampant, and some benevolent parties considerately 
 proposed to lynch the delinquent. However, the cur 
 escaped, and doubtless, if alive, vividly remembers the 
 lesson he received. 
 
 Game in California was then very abundant ; and as I 
 always possessed a strong preference for out-door life, 
 especially when shooting could be enjoyed, day after day I 
 wandered off at an early hour, often not returning till 
 after dark. A voyage along the coast, when the weather 
 permits, will produce abundant amusement ; for seals and 
 
El Dorado. 231 
 
 sea-fowl are to be found everywhere, and fish are 
 extremely numerous. But leaving the water, inland was 
 generally my selection; and what a shooting-range was 
 there ! Every sheltered valley swarmed with birds — the 
 Californian solitary partridge, mallard, duck, teal, and 
 snipe being the most numerous ; while deer were far from 
 uncommon, and hares dodged in and out of every patch 
 of brush. Scarcely a day passed without somebody 
 seeing a grizzly bear, and seldom a week elapsed without 
 accidents from their pursuit being reported. Near 
 Sacramento I met a cavalcade. The specimens of 
 humanity that composed it were of the very roughest 
 description — regular "leather-stockings," in all the glory 
 and attractiveness of greasy, dirty, well-worn buckskin 
 clothing. Between them they led, or rather dragged 
 along, an unfortunate mammoth grizzly bear, cut, bruised, 
 and apparently half-starved. The hardy rough mustangs 
 that each of the wild mountaineers bestrode exhibited 
 plainly that theirs was no easy indolent life — ^that short 
 commons and hard work made up the greater portion of 
 their existence. Yet their eyes were bright, and they 
 lifted and put down their feet with an air that clearly 
 indicated good health and powers of great endurance. 
 
 Although fossil remains of horses have been found in 
 America, there is nothing to justify the supposition that 
 these quadrupeds existed on the Western Continent when 
 it was first visited by Europeans. 
 
 Soon after, however, Spanish horses were introduced, 
 and all those to be found in Texas, Sonora, and California, 
 
232 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 ranging about wild, have the form, shape, and peculiarities 
 of their European progenitors. 
 
 But to return to the capturers of Bruin. I passed the 
 night with them, and a daring, reckless crew they were. 
 All, with the exception of a Milesian, were descended 
 from families that had settled in Missouri when that 
 State was a territory, and formed the western boundary 
 to civilisation on the American continent. Each was 
 over six feet high, straight as a lath, spare, muscular, but 
 powerful, ready either to fight Indian or Catamount at 
 the shortest notice. 
 
 One of this party had his face bound up, and an arm 
 in a sling. This, and the fact of being by some years the 
 older, enlisted my sympathies, so I volunteered to stand 
 him a drink. Hitching up his belt, and producing a plug 
 of tobacco, nibbled around like a ship-biscuit that had 
 been left in the way of rats, he took an enormous chaw, 
 offered me the balance to help myself from, and then 
 spoke thus : — " That's an almighty big bar. He's not 
 perhaps the heaviest I have seed, but by long odds he's 
 the taUest; and when his dander is riz, you had better 
 believe he's all there; and we had the hardest kind of 
 time in fixing him. It was him that chawed me up, 
 smashed my arm, and near took my scalp off, till this 
 boss most thought he was a dead coon. A Greeser 
 (Mexican) that lives on Bolt's ranche knowed this bar 
 for many a day, for he would just come round the 
 homestead and help his-self. Bars have a wonderful 
 amount of sense; they know a Greeser, they does. If 
 
El Dorado. 233 
 
 Missouri or Kentucky folks had been living on that 
 ranche, he wouldn't have come it that style, you bet. 
 Well, I and the boys come across his track, but for two 
 days we seen nothing of him. At length, when out 
 berrying, I ran most agin him, for the critter was on the 
 same errand. We both seen the other together, and he riz 
 on his hunkers, grunted, and jist as I thought he was 
 on to me, he gave a snort, and made tracks as if skeered. 
 You see, stranger, that bar seed I was no Greeser. Well, 
 I didn't shoot, for an old load was in the rifle; and although 
 she do carry plumb centre, she jist wants to be kindly 
 treated to be relied on; so I went home and wiped her 
 out, after which I came back with the boys to the 
 huckle-berry patch, but the bar had gone; and we giv 
 up looking after a bit, thinking luck was agin us. 
 Scattering over the place to get a feed, for the berries 
 was prime, as I stepped out from behind a log, jist facing 
 me, looking as pleased as a well-fed nigger at meeting 
 an acquaintance, was the grizzly. Quick as a steel trap 
 I drew a bead, fair plumb on his breast, atween the 
 shoulders; darn me if I didn't think to drop him in his 
 tracks, but I didn't hold straight. A kind o' buck fever 
 must have been over me, and before I could turn he was 
 on me like a wild cat. The first sweep he gave raised 
 my hair; the next I knowed, I was doubled up under 
 him, and the plaguy critter was chawing my arm. I 
 tried my best to get at my bowie, but I was that 
 cramped I couldn't reach it. But the boys heard the 
 shot. Up they come, Jake first — that big un standing 
 
234 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 with his back agin the fire there — he's a bully boy, he is ; 
 and he let drive. However, the shot didn't drop the 
 varmint, but it most did as good, for it took the plaguy 
 critter off me, and after them ; but they give him it hot 
 and strong tUl he caved in; and as they thought he 
 might be playing possum, they muzzled him, and tied 
 his legs; and so it proved, for you see he's not a darnt 
 bit the worse, altho' he's got five shot-holes in him. 
 Why the boys didn't kill him, you see, they thought 
 'that a heap of dollars might be got if we took him 
 all right into Sacramento or San Francisco." 
 
 The party were not wrong in their conclusion, as I 
 afterwards learned. The last I heard of poor Bruin was, 
 that he and a bull were pitted against each other to 
 form the object of attraction for a choice assembly of 
 brutes met together on a Sunday afternoon. 
 
 After a delay of some months in the hills, a report 
 of gold being unsually abundant in Sonora caused me 
 to direct my steps southward. 
 

 i« 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 A DAY IN SONOEA. 
 
 SCNOEA ! What a euphonious word. I never listen to 
 it without pleasure, for it recalls both music and the 
 dark-eyed beauties of Andalusia; but Sonora is far from 
 old Spain, across the Atlantic, across the North American 
 Continent, bordering on the placid margin of the blue^ 
 Pacific. I 
 
 The catalpas, trees far excelling in fragrance and 
 beauty the horse-chestnut, were in blossom as I threaded 
 my way along a path just discernible from the surrounding 
 savannah. My horse was foot-sore, leg-weary, and 
 heart-sick, for he had performed a long and tedious journey 
 on soft food, while my saddle had badly galled his withers. 
 Poor faithful steed ! It bled my heart to mount you in 
 your distressed condition, but I had no alternative. Day 
 after day, as lassitude became more apparent in your 
 limbs, and your once bright eye became more filmy, I 
 frequently argued with myself the charity of turning you 
 
236 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 loose to wander at pleasure ; but if I had done so, you 
 never would have reached a settlement, possibly you 
 would have been devoured by wild animals, and I should 
 not have been here penning your troubles and my respect 
 for your memory. 
 
 The country through which for some days I had been 
 travelling was open park land, bounded on the east by 
 rugged hills. Game was abundant. Hares (Lepits 
 Townsendii) quitted their form on every side, coveys of 
 Californian quail (Perdrix Calif ornii) flushed almost under 
 my horse's hoofs, while the fleet antelope (Antilocapra) 
 bounded past, swift as the wind. But a listless stupor 
 was over me. I cared not for the most tempting shot; 
 my gun was a nuisance to carry, and but that it might 
 be required for protection, I believe it would willingly 
 have been dropped. 
 
 And why, you will ask, had I got so reduced in pluck ? 
 Simply for this reason : I was suffering from an attack of 
 fever and ague, a disease difficult to get rid of, and one 
 which of all others most depresses the spirits, and makes 
 the victim reckless and careless of consequences. 
 Moreover, the despondency of the horse, perhaps, was 
 imparted to the rider, for it was really a doubtful matter 
 which of the two felt the most sorrowful and woe-begone. 
 
 Thus the day had glided by. All nature was bright 
 and cheerful; every animal, tree, and shrub was happy 
 and fresh-looking under the invigorating influence of the 
 early summer sun, making the contrast between them and 
 the travel-stained wanderer with his sweat-soiled steed the 
 
A Day in Sonora. 237 
 
 more conspicuous and disparaging. At length the increased 
 shadows told that it was time to choose a halting-place 
 — a matter of no great difficulty, for the surface of the 
 country was so similiar that, except you chanced to seat 
 yourself in a nest of ground cactus, there really was 
 no choice of situations. Attending first to the wants of 
 my horse, and relieving his poor back as much as possible 
 by changing the position of the saddle, I turned him loose 
 to obtain his supper. Having disposed of this duty, the 
 all-important fire was my next thought. There was 
 plenty of wood around. Still, I could not find any 
 sufSciently dry and inflammable to start a blaze, so, in 
 pursuit of this necessary material, I wandered almost a 
 mile from my selected camping-ground. As I advanced, 
 on opening from the sparse timber to the grass land, 
 a hundred yards to my right, I observed over a dozen 
 wild cattle assembled in a close body, with a splendid 
 bull, the evident leader of the troop, stationed about 
 forty yards in their front, facing towards the timber, 
 lashing himself into a fury with his tail, tearing the sod 
 with both hoof and horn, and indicating unmistakably 
 that mischief was brewing. In juxtaposition, still and 
 braced, stood a grizzly bear, angular and starved in looks, 
 with a coat so ragged and unkempt that I at once 
 concluded he was either a time-worn veteran or the 
 victim of some slowly consuming wound. 
 
 Each foe was so intent on the other that I had little 
 difficulty in obtaining a favourable position for viewing 
 the action that was pending, for Bruin evidently meant 
 
238 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 mischief, and the bull appeared in no way loath to accept 
 the gauntlet. 
 
 A short time before, over the camp fire, I had listened 
 with great interest to a genuine mountain man — one who 
 had passed a lifetime on the eastern and western slopes 
 of the Eoeky Mountains — as he described such a rencontre 
 as was about to take place. Little then did I suppose I 
 should have the fortune to witness one of those scenes 
 seldom viewed but by the venturous naturalist, hardy 
 trapper, or skulking aborigine. 
 
 At length both foes appeared to consider that time 
 was up. The bear, with quiet measured step, had lessened 
 the intermediate space, and fire flashed from the bull's 
 eyes. With a sudden spring and head lowered, the latter 
 rushed to the contest, and was received by Bruin in a 
 half-erect position, the fore paws being used as buffers 
 to lessen the concussion. However, the force nearly bore 
 him to the ground, but his tactics now were changed ; his 
 immense claws were fastened in the bull's withers, and 
 all his strength was exerted to prevent the head of his 
 antagonist being raised. Long and doubtful was the 
 struggle. The success of the bear appeared to depend 
 on his being able to retain his grip; that of the bull in 
 getting free, so that he might procure impetus to renew 
 the charge. Thus far I doubt if Bruin had been 
 punctured, whereas the blood flowed profusely from the 
 hold he had established on his antagoiust. When the 
 contest had been continued some moments, the bull 
 dropped on his knees; down, down almost into the earth 
 
A Day in Sonora. 239 
 
 went his head ; but this was but a ruse to obtain purchase, 
 for, with the celerity of a steel spring, upwards went his 
 head, and the bear was thrown clear several feet. Master 
 Grizzly would now have declined the contest, if optional ; 
 but no such idea was in the mind of the foe, for after 
 backing a few strides, with lowered head and irresistible 
 force, a second charge was made, fairly driving the 
 discomfited and disappointed marauder to a headlong 
 retreat. The rest of the herd, who had stood aloof earnest 
 spectators, now joined in the pursuit, and — would you 
 believe it ? — I, sick, weary, and footsore, found myself 
 following up at the tail of the hunt at the best pace I 
 could command, and, I doubt not, occasionally yeUing a 
 view halloa. For a mount that would have enabled me 
 to see the termination I would have given a good deal ; 
 as it was, my locomotion was so slow that both pursuers 
 and pursued soon were lost to view. 
 
 On returning to camp, to my surprise I saw a stranger 
 closely examining my trifling traps that had been left 
 on the ground. TJnperceived, with great interest I 
 watched his proceedings. Having apparently satisfied 
 his curiosity, he lit his pipe, and made himself comfortable, 
 when, a few moments after, I walked up to him. On 
 inspection, he turned out to have the most cut-throat 
 expression I ever previously beheld; so much so, that 
 I at once concluded he was one of those villains outlawed 
 from the settlements, living as best he could, and even 
 taking life if anything could be gained by it — for such 
 characters were far from uncommon then in this locality. 
 
240 Adventures in ma^ty Lands. 
 
 Our greeting was laconic and to the point, and in the 
 very plainest possible words I told him that his society- 
 was disagreeable. However, he was not the person to 
 take a hint or feel insulted; provokingly he listened to 
 all I had to say, but showed no disposition to change 
 his quarters. 
 
 At length the night wore on. I ate my meal in silent 
 dignity, while my visitor kept talking incessantly, 
 although I never vouchsafed an answer. About the 
 hour when I would have gone to sleep he was joined by 
 a comrade, a half-breed, if possible more repulsive- 
 looking than himself. They evidently were associates 
 of long standing, and sundry were the meaning glances 
 I observed pass between them. Not relishing my 
 situation, I determined to be particularly guarded and 
 on the alert. 
 
 Once or twice the half-breed arose, and, making some 
 paltry excuse, endeavoured to establish a position in my 
 rear, which I frustrated ; iiltimately I informed both that 
 any renewal of such conduct would at once provoke 
 hostilities. With obsequious politeness they assured me 
 my alarm was needless, that it was insulting them to 
 express suspicions, that they were persons of undoubted 
 respectability and character; but there was an unnaturalness 
 in their assertions, a suspicious restlessness in their 
 manner, a watchfulness upon aU my movements, of 
 which none but a fool could fail to see the import Thus 
 midnight was reached. More closely I drew my serrape 
 about me, the watch-fire was reduced to embers, but aU. 
 
A Day in Sonora. 241 
 
 my tendency to sleep had vanished. With one hand I 
 had inserted the bowl of my pipe into my bullet-pouch, 
 for it performed the duty of tobacco-bag also, when 
 several voices, at a considerable distance, jabbering 
 Spanish, were heard. Sharp as my ears were, still more 
 'cute were those of my would-be companions; with a 
 spring both were on their feet, and the next second in full 
 retreat. The spirit of the devil almost tempted me to 
 take a flying shot at them as the last glimpse of the 
 scoundrels disappeared in the darkness. There was 
 something so comical in the precipitancy of their flight 
 that I could not help laughing, at the same time 
 congratulating myself that I had so easily got rid of what 
 I was certain were dangerous parasites. In a few minutes 
 I was joined by the Sonorians. Without difficulty I 
 learned that they were in pursuit of two men who had 
 committed robbery and all but murder. With a collection 
 of all the words of dead or modern languages I could 
 command, I assured theia that they were certain of success 
 if pursuit were promptly carried on; that at best the 
 villains had only a few minutes' law; but, with the apathy 
 of their race, all came to a halt, dismounted, and huddling 
 over the fire, smoked in silence; and if I reverted to 
 the subject of pursuit, a yawn, stretch of the arms, and 
 " mucho fatigato " was my answer. 
 
 In the morning, before leaving, I picked up a piece of 
 paper from the place where renegade No. 1 had been 
 seated, the edges of which were scorched as if the 
 remainder had been used to light a pipe; this scrap 
 
242 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 was a portion of a letter. The few words that were 
 indited on it spoke a volume : — " Shall I still continue to 
 address your letters to Sacramento ? Eemember what 
 anxiety your absence causes me. My son, do return, 
 for you are aU an aged mother has to life for. — Maetha." 
 Away beyond the limits of civilisation, where no laws 
 exist, how many reckless, desperate, hardened villains 
 are to be found ! yet many of these men have mothers, 
 sisters, and wives pining away life in the hope of a return 
 which is destined never to be realised, for the career of 
 the object of their solicitude has been such that the 
 summary treatment of lynch-law would be instantly 
 awarded them if recognised in any frontier settlement or 
 seaport, thereby cutting them off from the rest of the 
 world, and depriving them of a chance of leaving those 
 associates who first led them to wage war on their 
 fellow-men. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 THE PARKS OF AMEEICA. 
 
 IT is not to artificial grounds, made, decorated, and 
 enclosed by man's labour, that I wish to draw 
 attention, but to enclosures far more secluded, far more 
 extensive, and infinitely grander — the emanation alone 
 of the great Creator. 
 
 In America are to be found many tracts of land in the 
 vicinity of the large cities that can compare with the parks 
 of Europe, and in one or two instances most favourably ; 
 but it is away from the busy haunts of man, away from 
 the hum and bustle of commerce, out of sound of the 
 murmur of population, across the Mississippi, across 
 many hundred miles of prairie, to the sequestered, 
 luxuriant meadows that lie between the eastern and 
 western ridges of the Eocky Mountains, that I would 
 carry the reader. 
 
 The Eocky Mountains, which form, as it were, a 
 backbone to the great E'orth American Continent, are 
 
244 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 divided into numerous ridges, between which are situated 
 the parks I wish to describe. A river generally runs 
 through each of these, the banks of which are fringed 
 with verdant meadows, of less or greater width, girded 
 around with gentle slopes, which increase in steepness and 
 barrenness as they grow higher and higher. In these park 
 lands a delightful evenness of temperature is generally 
 enjoyed, for the surrounding elevations shut out the cold 
 blasts of winter and the heated breezes of summer. 
 Moreover, snow never lies on them long, and the melting 
 of the glaciers in the summit ridges produces an abundant 
 supply of water throughout the dry season. Nearly every 
 description of vegetation which grows in the Western 
 States is to be found on these enclosed plains, and on 
 account of the atmosphere being moist and humid it 
 flourishes with great luxuriance. 
 
 Some of the parks are situated on debatable ground, 
 between two hostile Indian tribes, and they frequently 
 then become the scenes of fearful conflicts. Again, some 
 reckless braves in pursuit of game will wander from their 
 tribe, and take up a residence in a park which is the 
 property of another race. A general mustering of the 
 rightful owners will consequently take place to repel 
 the intruders, for the Indian is jealous of his landed rights, 
 and more especially of those territories which constitute 
 his best hunting-grounds. 
 
 Numerous white men, sometimes alone, more frequently 
 in small parties of two or three (more especially in old 
 times, when a beaver-pelt was worth four times its present 
 
The Parks of America. 245 
 
 value), have spent years of their lives immured in these 
 seldom-visited wilds, the events and experiences of one 
 day being so similar to its predecessor that the passage 
 of time would be unnoticed, tiU the size of their packs or 
 the reduction of their supplies of ammunition told them 
 that the trading fort must be visited. Instances have not 
 been wanting of men turning perfect hermits, and isolating 
 themselves from the outer world in some of these spots, 
 trapping game for food, and using the bow and arrow as 
 their weapon of defence. I once met a Frenchman who 
 had devoted himself to such a life. His residence was on 
 a diminutive island, in the centre of a small lake, formed 
 by an obstructing beaver-dam, which caused an overflow. 
 With a primitive log canoe he passed to and from the 
 mainland. By chance I came across him setting a snare 
 for some of the numerous Lepus family. He had not 
 noticed my approach, and he started when I spoke, turned 
 round towards me, and drew himself to his full height, 
 wheeled to the right-about with the precision and 
 bearing of a soldier, and would have gone, had I not 
 detained him by laying my hand on his sleeve. With 
 a gesture of impatience, defiance flashing from his eyes, 
 he a second time faced me ; in his countenance was a 
 look (it might have been the result of madness) which 
 plainly said, "Trifle not with me." After a moment's 
 pause, he muttered in clear, sonorous, haughty accents, 
 " Pardon, Monsieur," and soon afterwards the last of his 
 tattered clothing disappeared behind some intervening 
 brush. How I longed to question him, to ask him of 
 
Missing Page 
 
Missing Page 
 
248 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 Whether it be that age causes animals to become 
 reckless, or that their lengthened sojourn in the world has 
 familiarised them with their strength, and imparted to 
 them a knowledge of their powers of destruction, or 
 that the lassitude resulting from infirmities causes their 
 tempers to become soured, I know not. But when the 
 old bull-buffalo has separated himself from the herd, 
 and retired, as it were, into private life, he becomes 
 most pugnacious, and fearlessly attacks all intruders. 
 Fortunately his activity has deserted him at this soured 
 portion of his existence, and but little exertion is 
 necessary to avoid his onslaught. I once saw one of 
 these hero-veterans die a ^natural death, an unusual 
 occurrence, for their enemies are numerous, and always 
 ready to attack them when in the weak state which 
 precedes dissolution. This hero was standing on a 
 mound; a setting fiery sun slowly dipped behind the 
 western bounds of the landscape, and made his huge 
 outline look doubly grand. Food had been scarce with 
 me, and consequently I made a more than usually careful 
 stalk to get within range. The game's position was 
 such that I almost doubted the possibility of success • 
 yet closer and closer, without causing any visible alarm, 
 I approached. At length, when I had decided that the 
 range did not require lessening, I felt convinced that I 
 had been seen ; for the head and eyes were turned towards 
 me, but no angry shake of the horns, paw of the ground, 
 or flash of the eye evinced hostility, and, moreover, the 
 figure appeared to lessen with each respiration, and an air 
 
The Parks of America. 249 
 
 of incapacity for further exertion was indelibly stamped 
 upon the veteran monarch of the prairie. My gun was for 
 the moment forgotten, and I gazed with wonder, and 
 possibly with sorrow, at the apparent approach of death. 
 By degrees the veteran's fore legs were placed farther and 
 farther apart; rapidly diminishing strength instinctively 
 compelled this method of supporting the tottering figure. 
 At length the body swayed, and,, with a lurch like a 
 foundering ship, roUed on its side, and life departed from 
 the carcass at the same moment. Up to the termination 
 of the career of the noble brute, he had remained upon 
 his limbs, defying decay with his last breath. With 
 sorrow I looked upon the body, regretted that life had 
 fled ; although, at the same time, I had been drawn to the 
 spot with the intention of executing the office in which 
 I had been forestalled. Such a death was worthy of the 
 greatest hero — succumbing only when nature refused to 
 grant further support — ^yielding up the life and strength 
 he had gloried in without a sigh of regret. 
 
 Sometimes the cow-buffalo also finds her way to these 
 parks. When about to have young, she finds herself, 
 through weakness, unequal to the exertion necessary to 
 keep up with the ever-travelling herd; but when the 
 offspring is able to contend successfully for the necessaries 
 of life among its fellows, both mother and child wander 
 back to the great plains, to attach themselves to the first 
 herd that chance throws in their way. 
 
 Such a cow and calf, when met, are prizes of great value 
 to the hunter. Both are generally in the best condition, 
 
250 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 and fit food for the daintiest epicure. Bat the mother 
 is strong and fleet, and so is the child ; and if the 
 sportsman's horse have suffered from short-commons, or 
 a dose of over-work, the owner may as well relinquish, 
 without trial, aU hope of ranging alongside of them within 
 shooting distance. 
 
 Deer also visit these abodes of shelter, as well as the 
 buffalo. The wapiti, handsome in shape, noble in size 
 and bearing, and strongly resembling the deer of the 
 Scottish Highlands, abound in these mountain-fastnesses. 
 From the luxuriant grasses and shrubs that grow in the 
 low grounds they obtain abundant food; on the sloping 
 irregular declivities they have playgrounds that delight 
 them; and on the upper crags that form the boundaries, 
 safety from pursuit is within easy access. So seldom in 
 these solitudes do they hear the report of a gun, still less 
 see man, that not unfrequently they will advance towards 
 the hunter, every lineament of their features marked with 
 curiosity, surprise, and even indignation. But this is only 
 when the cause of their inquisitiveness is to leeWard of 
 their position, for should the relative situations become 
 changed, so that one breath of air tainted with man's 
 presence reaches their sensitive organ of scent, with the 
 speed of a race-horse the neighbourhood will be deserted. 
 The protecting monitor. Nature, true to her darlings, 
 whispers warning words, so impressive that they are never 
 for a moment disregarded. 
 
 The life of deer, when free and untrammelled by walls 
 and boundaries, must be more than usually happy. Being 
 
The Parks of America. 251 
 
 without care, and perfectly independent, their wants are 
 easily satisfied ; their food is the fresh crisp vegetation, 
 and their dwelling-place the boundless plains or the 
 picturesque mountain sides; while the air they breathe 
 is unpolluted by noxious gases tainted with man's 
 inventions and manufacturing instincts. They bathe in 
 the brook at wUl, sport in its pellucid current, love and 
 are loved; and, being without ambition, they commit no 
 offences which afterwards fill a guilty conscience with 
 painful remorse. 
 
 After a stormy night, during which I had not obtained 
 an hour's rest, first from the determined efforts my horse 
 continued making to break away, and, secondly, from the 
 torrents of rain that descended, my bivouac-ground being 
 very exposed, I took my double-barrel DougaU rifle,* 
 and, whUe my nag was enjoying his morning meal, I 
 determined to see what addition I could make to our 
 larder. The uneasiness of my animal was soon explained. 
 Bear-tracks were found abundant in the vicinity, and the 
 imprints were so large that any brute of peaceful habits 
 must of necessity have a dislike to the possibility of 
 making an acquaintance with such a Bruin. I closely 
 surveyed the neighbourhood, in the hope of introducing 
 the contents of my low trajectory to Mr. Ursus ferox, but 
 I was not in luck. The atmosphere was delightful, every 
 respiration appearing to imbue me with fresh powers of 
 walking, so I wandered on, for I had no fixed course, and 
 
 * A low trajectory of 14 bore 
 
252 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 entered a piece of open timber-land. The birds carolled 
 forth their morning prayer, the industrious agile squirrels 
 skipped from limb to limb, occasionally halting to chaff 
 me for my travel-stained and begrimed appearance. Even 
 the snakes were out in force, but one soon gets used to 
 them, and dreads them so little that a kick from one's 
 long-booted foot is frequently the only notice they receive. 
 In fact, aU animal life was having a jubUee; and the 
 foliage, bright with autumn tints, and the grasses, brilliant 
 from the late rains, formed a suitable playground for their 
 frolics. Lost in thought and admiration, I was recalled 
 from my dreams by a stone, at a distance of over one 
 hundred yards, rolling down a declivity, and crushing 
 the brush in its course. Anxiously looking round for the 
 cause, before me I saw standing a splendid wapiti, nearly 
 five feet high at the shoulder, bearing a head of horns 
 not under forty pounds weight, and considerably palmated. 
 The stag saw me, yet appeared unalarmed, for he arched 
 his back and stretched himself. As I advanced closer 
 towards him, not so much with the object of lessening 
 the distance of range as to see how near I could approach 
 without alarming the animal, to my surprise he struck 
 the ground with his fore foot, and showed every indication 
 of a disposition to dispute my rights of intruding into his 
 demesne. But, poor creature, he knew not the fearful 
 odds he had to contend with. Sixty yards now only 
 intervened between us, so I pitched my well-tried friend 
 to my shoulder, and ere the smoke had cleared off the 
 ground, the beautifal dusky form was lying prostrate. 
 
The Parks of America. 253 
 
 apparently dead. Having reloaded — a performance that 
 should be always enacted immediately, and before moving 
 one inch towards your game — I advanced with my 
 butcher-knife drawn to cut his throat. Depositing my rifle 
 on a bunch of grass, and straddHng the victim, I raised 
 his head ; the keen edge soon brought blood, but ere the 
 incision was an inch deep, the wapiti rose with a bound 
 to his feet, giving me a tremendous purl, at the same 
 time almost pitching on my prostrate body, his shoulder 
 being completely smashed. On the spur of the moment I 
 made a grasp at one of the hind legs, which I succeeded 
 in seizing, and, having severed the hamstrings, I prevented 
 his escape and his power of doing mischief. Leaving 
 my filthy rag that did the duty of pocket-handkerchief 
 fastened to one of the horns, to warn off wolves — for 
 these skulkers are ever suspicious — I returned to camp 
 for my horse to bring home the game. It was almost 
 sunset before I was back where this little adventure 
 took place. The spot I had marked well in my memory, 
 and my bump of locality I believe is unusually large. 
 Already I saw a tree that I recognised. My quarry was 
 only a few yards beyond it — yes, there it was, but in 
 possession of one whom I had no doubt would refuse to 
 listen to priority of ownership. 
 
 Over the carcass lay an immense grizzly bear, his lips 
 curled up so as to show his teeth, while a couple of grey 
 wolves, with watering mouths, looked on at a respectful 
 distance. Dismounting, I fastened my horse with the 
 lariat line, and unperceived, for I was favoured by the 
 
254 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 windj I stole within forty or fifty paces of the would-be 
 thieves. Bruin had evidently just arrived, for the carcass 
 was intact. The presence of the wolves evidently was 
 disagreeable to him, for although for a moment he would 
 lick the blood-stained parts around the throat, every now 
 and then he would lift his head, fix his diminutive eyes 
 upon his attendants, and raise his upper lip so as to 
 expose a powerful set of grinders. For ten minutes T 
 watched this picture ; at length the bear rose, and, laying 
 hold of the dead deer by the nape of the neck, showed an 
 evident intention of carrying off the plunder. As day 
 was declining, I determined without further delay to assert 
 my claim. A good broadside shot offered itself, and with 
 the report my foe fell to rise no more, and the brace of 
 skulkers made tracks for safer quarters. 
 
 In these retreats an animal is said to exist which the 
 mountain men very much fear, and call a carcaju. 
 Frequently at night I have heard the most unearthly 
 howling, such as, when once heard, can never be forgotten, 
 and I have been informed that it emanated from this 
 creature. From description I believe it must be nearly 
 allied to the caracal; but why should it be dreaded, 
 unless much larger and more powerful than that animal ? 
 One of my temporary companions, a half-breed Frenchman, 
 who was considered an excellent hunter, returned to camp 
 one day earlier than usual. From his manner I saw 
 that something unlooked-for had occurred; and when 
 questioned, he informed me that he had seen a carcaju. 
 On enquiring why he had not shot it, he appeared to 
 
The Parks of America. 255 
 
 think that any attempt to do so would be futile, and 
 probably lead to his own destruction. 
 
 A few days after this I made an early start to visit a 
 stream where beaver signs were extremely numerous. 
 On my route across a rocky spur, I saw a couple of 
 big-horns. These must not be confused with the Eocky 
 Momitain sheep, for the animals that bear these names 
 among the western hunters are perfectly different, although 
 both belong to the goat family. They, however, frequent 
 the same localities, the habitat of the latter possibly 
 extending farther north. Both these races are very wary, 
 and consequently very difiicult game to stalk on the 
 American continent. Descending at break of day to the 
 lower grounds to feed, ere the sun has dried up the 
 morning dews they are en route for the highest and most 
 inaccessible crags. Sometimes, as you thread your way 
 through the rocky canons,* away, hundreds of feet aloft, 
 on a pinnacle of crag, or on a detached portion of rock, 
 which the slightest exertion would apparently hurl into 
 the valley beneath, will be seen one of these animals; 
 but invariably far beyond rifle range. I made repeated 
 efforts to accomplish the destruction of some of them, 
 but failed so often that I almost gave up in disgust. 
 At length I was rewarded. The plan of operations 
 which brought success was thus arranged. On a clear 
 beautiful night I started from camp. All animated nature 
 was hushed to sleep, excepting the tree-frogs and the 
 
 • Deep fissures, in which rivers run. 
 
256 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 "whip-poor-will" (a variety of goat-sucker), which kept 
 iaconstantly sighing out the melancholy note from 
 which it derives its name. After a severe struggle, 
 not unaccompanied by falls and bruises, I reached the 
 first line of rocks ; after resting, I again pushed upwards, 
 till I thought I had gained suf&cient elevation ; so in my 
 blanket I lay down in the most sheltered retreat I could 
 find — for these elevated regions are cold — to wait for the 
 break of day. 
 
 My plan, you will see, was to get above the game. 
 From my own observation, and from remarks which I 
 had heard, I concluded that these wary gentry dreaded 
 danger only from beneath, and that, if I could obtain 
 greater altitude than they, I should be successful. At 
 length day broke — ^how long it is in coming under such 
 circumstances ! — and to my chagrin I was enveloped in 
 mist, so dense that I could not see twenty yards from me. 
 However, with the sun, the curtain of vapours rose, and 
 roUed farther up the rugged slopes. With anxious and 
 careful eye I surveyed every side; but not a sign could 
 I behold of the creatures I sought. Determining on a 
 return to camp, already I bad commenced my descent, 
 when, turning an angle, hundreds of feet beneath me I 
 saw three big-horns. One, the old gentleman of the party, 
 stood on the edge of a precipice, the other two were lying 
 down a few yards apart from him. There are moments 
 of pleasure in a sportsman's life that leave a lasting 
 impression on the tablets of his memory, such as death 
 alone can erase : such was this scene. For possibly 
 
The Parks of America. 257 
 
 thirty minutes I gazed on the happy family. Still the 
 veteran remained like a statue. The affairs of the lower 
 world were evidently of great interest, or its inhabitants 
 were in his opinion a dangerous race, who required much 
 watching. Satisfied as far as seeing was concerned, and 
 availing myself of every obstacle that would shield me 
 from observation, with the cunning and bloodthirstiness 
 of the snake I neared my victims. The stalk was an easy 
 one, the face of the soil appearing formed for it. The 
 point I had marked with my eye as the best place to 
 shoot from was reached ; with care I protruded my head 
 over it, and the figures of the tableau remained unaltered 
 in position. As I raised my rifle, and glanced through 
 the sight, I can stOl well remember that gentle monitor, 
 conscience, whispering to me that I was about to commit 
 a bloodthirsty deed, such as we men would condemn in 
 the most wholesale manner if perpetrated by any of the 
 inferior members of the brute creation. But still the 
 admonition stayed not my purpose, nor disconcerted my 
 aim. Against the ribs, at the back of the shoulder, I 
 directed my aim ; an imperceptible pressure of the finger 
 was answered by a report, and with it a harmless animal 
 had been deprived of Hfe. As the father lay struggling 
 on the ground, the wife and child fled — they to lose their 
 guardian and natural protector, I to be no richer except 
 by a few pounds of meat, and to be able to say I had 
 performed such a deed. 
 
 But, leaving the big-horns, I got to the beaver-dam in 
 due time, and, reaching the margin of the water, hid 
 
258 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 myself in a dense growth of willow. My presence was 
 unknown to the community, for I had not been there 
 more than a few minutes when two musk-rats (muscLuash) 
 swam by. These pretty little animals are widely scattered 
 over the American continent, and their pelt forms a 
 considerable article of commerce. They are most expert 
 swimmers and divers, with a quizzical expression of 
 countenance which is both attractive and ludicrous. At 
 maturity they are about the size of a half-grown 
 cat, and, when obtained young, make admirable pets. 
 However, their strong musky odour is much against their 
 popularity for such a purpose. Stitl no beavers showed 
 themselves, although I had been more than a couple of 
 hours in my ambush, and I had lost several shots both 
 at deer and ducks from my desire not to alarm the 
 neighbourhood. However, patience meets its reward, and 
 about four in the afternoon a fine specimen of the beaver 
 swam past, soon followed by a second and third. During 
 the noonday heat doubtless they had been taking their 
 siesta, and were now turning out for business or pleasure. 
 Soon a dozen were in view, swimming to and fro, 
 occasionally diving, but never remaining long under 
 water. They appear to live a most happy life, the various 
 members of the community being on terms of the strongest 
 friendship with each other. 
 
 However, I did not see dam-building, or any of the 
 skilful engineering qualities with which they are 
 accredited, and I have long come to the conclusion 
 that such rumours have emanated from the brain of 
 
The Parks of America. 259 
 
 imaginative persons. The dams -which the beaver has 
 the credit of building are thus formed : The spring and 
 autumnal floods carry down immense quantities of timber, 
 which in a bend or narrow place in the river form what 
 the Canadian lumbermen call a " choke " — id est, the logs 
 get jammed together, and, by the current's pressure, by 
 degrees become most firmly locked. The beavers, which 
 principally feed on the willow and osier, cut down the 
 limbs that are within their reach; the leaves and tender 
 shoots and bark are gnawed off for food, and the 
 remainder floats down the stream, and by the pressure of 
 the water is driven into the crevices between the larger 
 logs, thus filling up intervening spaces, and forming an 
 interlacing net-work. With continued accessions of small 
 branches soon the whole becomes an immovable mass, and 
 a permanent dam is formed, which so obstructs the water 
 as to form, if the vicinity is level, an overflow. These 
 extended sheets of water are called beaver-dams. 
 
 The first cool weather in autumn brought a flock of 
 wild geese from the north, which in a few days increased 
 to thousands. Ducks also made their appearance. All 
 were ia the flnest condition, and far from wary. I 
 observed not less than nine distinct species of Anser. To 
 this may be added twenty-seven species of ducks, among 
 which were to be found the genuine canvas-back, aud a 
 bird much resembling the eider-duck. Two species of 
 swans are also numerous. On a cold day these various 
 aquatic fowls might be seen going south in armies ; with 
 a rise in the thermometer the course of their legions would 
 
260 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 be reversed. Strange to say, they do not always confine 
 their society to their own race ; on one occasion I counted 
 five different species feeding together in the utmost 
 harmony. But my residence in the parks was at an end. 
 I had killed all the game I wanted, and could have killed 
 more; and now in my own land I often sigh for the 
 howling of the wolf, a serenade that would recall rough 
 but true men — and dangerous, fatiguing, but happy days. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 A HUNTING MISADVENTUEE. 
 
 ALL those portions of the ■ American continent which 
 were settled by the French, and which have not 
 since received an influx of emigrants from other 
 countries, remain almost unchanged and unimproved. 
 A few scattered log-dwellings and a few acres of cultivated 
 land alone attest the presence of man. 
 
 How different are those parts which are colonised by 
 the descendants of English, Scotch, Irish, or Germans ! 
 The forest rapidly disappears before them, and comfortable 
 houses, smiling cottages, commodious barns, well-enclosed 
 and highly cultivated fields, in a short space of time 
 cover the entire surface of the land, which a few years 
 previous was merely a wilderness. 
 
 Vincennes, in the State of Indiana, was settled by the 
 French. The town has of late years become of some 
 importance, because the Ohio and Mississippi EaHroad 
 
262 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 ruas through, it ; but down on the Watash Eiver, not five 
 miles off, is to he found the primitive forest, only here and 
 there broken by the Frenchman's shanty and diminutive 
 corn-patch. I once lived in this neighbourhood, for game 
 was abundant, and fishing excellent j but even with all 
 these inducements, fever and ague were too prevalent, 
 mosquitoes, jiggers, and ticks too abundant, to permit my 
 stay to be of length. 
 
 In Vincennes there lived a gentleman who had once 
 been an officer in the Prussian army. His love of hunting 
 amounted almost to a mania, and he practised it at no 
 inconsiderable expense. The better to indulge his foible, 
 he kept a pack of — what shall I caU them ? — certainly not 
 hounds ; perhaps curs is the most applicable name. WeU, 
 K. had a good heart, but he had very bad sight, with a 
 great aptitude for firing snap shots. Several times this 
 little peculiarity had got him into trouble, for he had 
 almost killed one friend and severely peppered several 
 others. At length his reputation became so notorious 
 that no one could be induced to accompany him when in 
 pursuit of game. This was to him a source of great grief, 
 because he was of convivial habits, and loved dearly to 
 show to the world what a wondrous clever pack he 
 possessed, and how ably he hunted them. Soon after 
 my arrival in Indiana, I made K.'s acquaintance; and 
 although numerous hints from outsiders were given me 
 as to the uncertainty of life, more especially when with 
 such a hunting companion, I would not be warned, but 
 put down all as malicious scandal, and therefore refused 
 
A Hunting Misadventure. 263 
 
 steadfastly to be prejudiced against him until I had ocular 
 demonstration of the fact. 
 
 One fine morning, in the month of November, I was 
 awoke in a delightful portion of my sleep — which, with 
 subalterns, is so often disturbed by the ration bugle when 
 they happen to be orderly officers — by a most discordant 
 too-tooing on an old cracked horn within the sacred 
 precincts of my bedroom. Solicitations for ten minutes' 
 respite for forty more winks, or for sufficient time to recall 
 my scattered senses, were of no avail; so, rather than 
 insult my friend by throwing a boot at him — for, being 
 a foreigner, I did not know how he might receive such 
 a welcome — I sprang immediately from my couch, made 
 a hurried toilet, and a hearty breakfast. Then, instead 
 of indulging in my usual after-breakfast pipe — the most 
 delightful of all the pipes of the day — I determined 
 to lose no time, and postponed my smoke till I was in 
 my saddle. 
 
 My mount was a pony of about fourteen hands — 
 handsome, good, and a great pet. I had not long 
 possessed her, but already knew her valuable qualities 
 so well, that I would not have taken for her double the 
 price she cost me. Little did I imagine that this would 
 be the last time I should cross my little mare. 
 
 The hunting-ground was reached, and this was our 
 plan of operations. K. was to take the pack and make 
 a drive down wind, while I remained by a favourite pass, 
 which previous experience told us the deer were certain 
 to traverse. In fifteen or twenty minutes after taking 
 
264 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 my stand, a solitary doe came in sight. With the most 
 guarded caution she approached my ambuscade. Again 
 and again she hesitated, but the yelping of the curs 
 reminded her that her present course was scarcely optional 
 — that she had either to go forward or run the gauntlet. 
 At length her decision was formed. Forward towards my 
 shelter she came. A few more strides brought her within 
 easy range as to distance, but difficult for certain shooting 
 from intervening brush. My first barrel, therefore, failed 
 to do more than slightly alter her course; but, as she 
 passed me in more open ground, the left brought her tail 
 down, caused her to spring several feet in the air, and 
 stumble on to her knees, from which position she 
 recovered, and was soon lost to view. 
 
 Having reloaded, I quickly followed the hoof-tracks, and 
 an old skirter of this pack of unmentionables overtook 
 me; and ere he had gone a hundred yards, from the 
 intonation of his voice, I knew he had reached the quarry. 
 Hurrying up to the scene of action, I found the doe at 
 bay, bidding the cur defiance with her feet, which she 
 used most skilfully. The dog, however was not to be 
 beaten off. My presence gave him fresh courage; and 
 after a couple of unsuccessful attempts, he laid hold, 
 and I got a chance to blood my knife. Soon afterwards 
 I brought up my pony; and, placing the carcass across 
 his loins, made it fast to the D's in the cantle of the 
 saddle. On returning to my post, I again heard the 
 curs running, and evidently heading in my direction. 
 The better to be able to use my gun, I made my naw 
 
A Hunting Misadventure. 265 
 
 fast to a sapling, and started at the double to cut off 
 an angle; but I had not gone more than a hundred 
 yards when, heading directly for me, I saw ten or 
 twelve deer. Unfortunately they had seen me, and, 
 sheering off to the left, passed close to the pony. To this 
 moment I cannot tell the reason, but the little animal 
 appeared suddenly seized with fright. She reared, backed, 
 and struggled, till the bridle broke, and off she went in 
 the direction of the hunt, bucking and kicking, evidently 
 with the intention of divesting herself of the load. Soon 
 she succeeded, for the saddle turned round, and the deer 
 got underneath her belly, where it remained only for a 
 few minutes before it was torn off. Not wishing to walk 
 home, I hurried after the mare, but shouts and kind words 
 were unavailing. The little animal, glorying in her 
 freedom, only cocked her tail the higher, and accelerated 
 her pace. 
 
 Cogitating over my unfortunate predicament, I- heard 
 a couple of shots close at hand, and knowing full well 
 that none but K. could have fired them, I pushed 
 forward, and soon joined him. From his statement, he 
 had just fired at a tremendous buck, with enormous horns. 
 He was certain that we should find him dead close by, 
 and said that we had better wait till some of the hounds 
 returned to assist our search. After an unusual amount 
 of too-tooing, one of the so-called hounds joined us ; but 
 no exertion would induce him to take up the traU. " Very 
 odd," said my friend ; " the scent must be very bad to-day.'' 
 " Very curious," said I ; "my little mare has just passed 
 
266 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 this way; did you see her ?" "No," he responded; "nothing 
 passed but the buck I shot at." 
 
 A horrible thought crossed my mind — so horrible that 
 I tried to banish it — no less than that the big buck was 
 my pet pony. It was of no use. My suspicion I could not 
 conceal, but K. was obdurate ; the idea was absurd : could 
 he disbelieve his eyes ? ultimately we almost got to high 
 words. No deer track could I find, but that of the pony 
 was plainly visible. The cur would not acknowledge the 
 passage of gama There was no room for doubt; still I 
 hoped that my friend had seen so badly that he had not 
 held his gun straight. More of the mongrels now joined 
 us, not one of whom could be induced to opea Several 
 casts were made to the right and left, but without success. 
 Farther into the woods we advanced in the supposed 
 correct direction, when, to my horror and indignation, 
 I beheld my pet writhing in a death-struggle ! Even then 
 my German friend swore by all that is high and low, that 
 some one else must be the assassin, for that he had fired 
 at a buck. 
 
 To waste my breath in argument with such a man was 
 absurd. I therefore said Little, but thought a great deal. 
 At length a convulsive, struggle indicated that death 
 had relieved my unfortunate favourite. "When I held a 
 ;post-mortem examination, the result showed me that not 
 only had the charge of buck-shot been well placed for 
 inflicting a mortal wound, but that a portion of it had 
 ripped my saddle in numerous places. I fervently wished 
 that the mare had been without a breast-strap, for then, 
 
A Hunting Misadventure. 267 
 
 ■when the saddle turned round with the deer, most 
 probably she would have got rid of both ; and I should 
 have suffered only my loss in horseflesh, without the 
 destruction of my saddle. 
 
 That day was the last which I passed shooting in the 
 society of the Prussian, and, reader, take my advice, be 
 most particular not to trust yourself in the company of 
 careless persons carrying fire-arms! There is scarcely 
 a sportsman, however young he may be, who cannot 
 recall some terrible accident caused by such people. 
 
 Before leaving Yincennes, I will add a little shooting 
 episode that happened on the grand prairie. 
 
 The morning dawned as wintry and wild as if my 
 location had been in the Arctic regions, and, as travelling 
 was out of the question, for I was en route, to visit a friend, 
 I was unwillingly detained captive for the day. A prairie 
 farm in winter is far from an interesting domicile for any 
 one, more particularly if confined to the house. After 
 hours of inertness and a heavy consumption of tobacco, 
 I decided to face the elements, draped in white, preferring 
 to do so rather than roast over an uncomfortably hot fire 
 in an uncommonly cold house. 
 
 Putting on as much clothing as if destined for picket 
 duty before Sevastopol in winter, I went to the place 
 usually selected by the prairie chickens (Tetrao cupido) 
 for feeding. Here a portion of the com had been cut, 
 and still stood in shocks, with the ear on. Arriving at 
 the spot, although the snow was flying with considerable 
 violence, I saw several chickens on the wing, indications 
 
268 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 which I favourably construed iato promise of sport. 
 Selecting the most suitable stand, I was not long 
 tasked with delay, for birds commenced passing in every 
 direction: even those that I flushed only flew a short 
 distance before returning. It appears to me that I never 
 saw game tamer, my white dress over head and body 
 approximating so closely to that of the ground that many, 
 doubtless, supposed me to be anything else you like to 
 imagine rather than a sportsman. Even some headed 
 straight for the shock behind which I stood, and, 
 doubtlessly, would have alighted if they had not been 
 disturbed by my movement or the report of my gun. 
 One in particular, which came while I was loading, after 
 being frightened from my shelter, went to the next stook 
 and commenced feeding with perfect indifference. But 
 such an ordeal is trying to a man's constitution, and to 
 retain a sufficiency of animal heat required more vitality 
 than I possessed, so that after an hour's work I was 
 compelled to desist, with fingers stiffened, and toes nearly 
 paralysed. Tor the last ten minutes, half the time was 
 occupied in fumbling to place caps on the nipples, an 
 amusement far from pleasant or soothing to an irascible 
 temperament. Having obtained quite as many birds as I 
 required, with satisfaction I returned to the influences 
 of the fire, and uncomfortable shelter of the homestead. 
 
 Here, as in other parts of the world, I heard the old 
 story of milk-snakes, or of reptiles that suck milk from 
 cows when in the pasture-fields. Still, I cannot believe 
 these assertions, and I will give my reasons for my 
 
A Hunting Misadventure. 269 
 
 incrediility. In the first place, there are two distinct 
 snakes called by this name in America — ^perhaps more. 
 At the north end of Lake Simcoe, in Canada, a variety 
 of snake excessively numerous there, and which I should 
 denominate the brown water-snake, was pointed out to 
 me as a milk-snake. In Southern Illinois, Iowa, &c., a 
 handsome dark-blue snake, very rapid in his progression, 
 and not at all unlike the common black snake, is always 
 called a milk-snake; and to both these varieties, in their 
 different localities, is attributed the crime of sucking the 
 cows. That the emigrant on Lake Simcoe or the squatter 
 of the Western States believes this, there is no doubt; 
 and like many yarns equally improbable, they are accepted, 
 and handed down from father to son, without the idea 
 ever entering their heads to examine whether it be 
 possible. Both the brown and dark-blue snakes in 
 question live principally on frogs, and their teeth are so 
 situated that, when once they lay hold of their victim — 
 if it is large and sufficient to open the mouth to its full 
 extent — they can with difficulty let go, without cutting 
 or tearing. Now a cow's teat is of such a size that, if 
 the snake took hold of it, the milk could not be extracted 
 unless the reptile closed its mouth for the purpose of 
 suction, and scarification of the part would be the result. 
 Cattle and horses have a great dislike to snakes, and 
 will not at any time approach them voluntarily, being 
 able to detect their presence by smell. On the western 
 prairies, where stock-raising is the principal occupation 
 of the farmer, snakes abound, many of them poisonous — 
 
270 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 such as the rattlesnake, mocassin, copperhead. Still it is 
 unusual, owing to this power of scent which stock possess, 
 for an animal to be bitten. Now, can it for a moment 
 be supposed that a cow would submit to an operation 
 that would cause it pain, and that from a creature for 
 whom it has the greatest antipathy ? 
 
 However, the snakes to which my informant alluded 
 are not the same as those I have mentioned. I cannot 
 help believing that whether the reptile was white or black, 
 short or long, this antiquated story is no more than a 
 fabrication. 
 
 While shooting in this neighbourhood, the person who 
 accompanied me kUled a very light slate-coloured snake, 
 nearly sis feet long, which he called a milk-snake. My 
 attendant assured me that this variety was in the habit of 
 sucking the cattle. But it probably got the appellation 
 from its colour, and imagination attributed to it the 
 milking proclivities. 
 
 Snakes have long been the subjects of wonderful and 
 impossible stories. For instance, in Texas and other 
 portions of the United States, as well as at the Cape of 
 Good Hope, a most dangerous description is said to exist, 
 called the hoop-snake. It is supposed to be very long, 
 and to have the greatest antipathy to equestrians, whom 
 it pursues in the following novel manner : Taking its tail 
 in its mouth, it forms a hoop, and foUows its victim, 
 trundling over rough and smooth ground with great 
 velocity! How delightful to be coursed by such a 
 customer! Everybody dislikes snakes. They have no 
 
A Hunting Misadventure. 271 
 
 friends ; all wiU go out of their way to kill them : and, 
 doubtless, they deserve much antipathy. But give a 
 dog a bad name, and crimes and misdemeanours of which 
 he is perfectly innocent will be saddled upon him. I very 
 much believe the unfortunate snakes are saddled with 
 numerous misdeeds of which they are entirely innocent, 
 particularly that of sucking cows. 
 
CHAPTEE XXX. 
 
 CAREER OF AN EMIGRAN'T. 
 
 A SLIGHT sketch of the hardships and trials which the 
 •^ emigrant has to struggle through may be interesting 
 to many. His life is not aU. sunshine, as some may 
 imagine, and pleasure and rest are only obtained after 
 days and years of toil and industry. 
 
 Let us suppose the emigrant to have reached Canada 
 with his family, and arrived at the site where his 
 destined home is to be ; that he is a man of small 
 means, in fact, with not more than sufficient to buy 
 his seed-corn, procure one or two head of cattle and 
 hogs, and sufficient provisions to last his household for, 
 say, six months — the season, autumn. Just think what 
 trials and anxieties are before this little coterie. Pirst, 
 the house has to be built. How many a hard blow, how 
 many a blistered hand, ay, and how many a heartache 
 must take place before that is accomplished! Hour 
 after hour, day after day, the woods resound with the 
 
Career of an Emigrant. 273 
 
 monotonous click of the axe; but how slowly does the 
 work advance ! for he has not that sleight and skill that 
 is so characteristic of the native American backwoodsman. 
 At length sufficient space is cleared for the future 
 domicile, enough trees have been cut and notched of 
 which to compose it, and the light of heaven is no longei' 
 shut out by the foliage, but cheers the labourer and those 
 depending on him during their mid-day meal. If the 
 emigrant have neighbours — and all who live within five 
 or six miles are deemed so — he informs them that he is 
 ready to " raise " his house. This summons is invariably 
 attended to, and a dozen or more sturdy workmen soon 
 have the logs placed in their respective positions, and 
 before many hours the sides of the new dwelling are up. 
 But supposing the settler has taken up land away off in 
 the forest, far from where assistance can be obtained, he 
 must make use of every available mechanical power that 
 can be formed with axe and timber to place the unwieldy 
 logs in their destined positions. This is slow and tedious 
 work. The first roof is generally composed of bark, or 
 black ash roughly riven into planks ; this afterwards gives 
 place to shingles, when time and experience have taught 
 him how to make them. But logs are not all straight, 
 and many are the openings in the walls which must be 
 closed before winter sets in. This process is called 
 chinking, and is performed by forcing into the crevices 
 chips or rude laths of timber, which are afterwards daubed 
 over with clay or lime. The fire is made on the floor, 
 and the chimney, which seldom satisfactorily performs 
 
274 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 its duty, projects into the room, aad is a composition 
 of thin laths and clay or lime placed in alternate layers. 
 Then the doors and windows are sawn out, a casing is 
 put in, and the emigrant's first home is fit for the 
 reception of its future occupants. Tables, chairs, stools, 
 and other interior necessaries are easily formed. Of 
 course they are most primitive in construction, still they 
 answer the purpose, or must do so until time has given 
 the labourer a few good crops, or his character for industry 
 and honesty has become established at the nearest store ; 
 then possibly credit can be obtained. But although the 
 house is up, work does not cease. Morning, noon, and 
 night the axe must be at work, till sufficient space for 
 the first crop is cleared. To accomplish this, not only 
 have the trees to be felled, then cut into logging lengths, 
 the boughs and Kmbs lopped off and piled, but possibly 
 the surface of the land has to be underbushed. Those 
 trees that, from their splitting easily, are suitable for 
 rails are saved for that purpose, while the others, generally 
 through the assistance of neighbours and their ox-teams, 
 are drawn together, piled one upon another, and, when 
 sufficiently dry, burned. A good burn can seldom be 
 obtained till the timber has been cut at least a year; 
 otherwise the logs have to be piled and re-pUed, fired 
 and re-fired, before all are consumed. One thing you 
 cannot get rid of, viz., the stumps. They must be seen 
 to form a correct opinion of their unsightliness ; and, worse 
 still, they take years to decay, some varieties of timber 
 lasting an ordinary Lifetime. During the process of firing. 
 
Career of an Emigrant. 275 
 
 as log-heaps are frequently built beside stumps, they get 
 charred and blackened, and burnt into distorted shapes, 
 such as an imaginative mind can fabricate into all sorts 
 of spectres. When the land is fit for cultivation, it has 
 to be fenced. This generally is done by splitting asb, 
 hickory, or elm into rough rails from ten to twelve feet 
 long, which are placed upon the ground, the end of one 
 rail resting on that of the other, like a succession of letter 
 Ws, till sufficient altitude is obtained. EaU-splitting 
 is laborious work, and many a day's pounding with a 
 gigantic mallet, there called a beetle, has to be done ere 
 a large log is dismembered into rails of the requisite size. 
 A fence of brush is sometimes temporarily employed ; but 
 it is dangerous to trust your maiden crop to such a 
 fragile enclosure. Cattle and hogs are not easily excluded 
 from such tempting food as green wheat or corn. You 
 may not possess any stock yourself, yet your neighbours 
 possibly do, and as the habits of all are very erratic in 
 wild land, the unfortunate settler who has trusted to a 
 brush fence may awake in the morning to find the result 
 of all his labour and toil, the hope of his family for the 
 next year's subsistence, totally destroyed. In order to 
 prepare the land after clearing for the reception of the 
 first crop, the ashes that remain after burning are well 
 scattered, when, if oats or wheat are to be sown, the seed 
 is generally scattered broadcast, and not unfrequently 
 harrowed in with a branch, when a better implement is 
 not obtainable. If the emigrant have sufficient funds to 
 purchase a yoke of cattle, when he has learned to drive 
 
276 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 them — no easy matter — ^they -will be found most useful. 
 In fact, the first purchase that all should desire to make 
 is a pair of these useful animals. Without them I should 
 deem it almost an impossibility for any one to succeed; 
 though patience and determination will accomplish much. 
 In the meantime, how are the family living? What is 
 their food ? Pork, flour, and corn-meal — and, believe me, 
 there are few articles of human diet that are capable of 
 being less metamorphosed by human ingenuity than the 
 afore-mentioned. Occasionally a duck, grouse, or even 
 deer may fall to the settler's gun, and if he is in the 
 vicinity of water, fish may easily be captured. But as a 
 rule, those who devote themselves to field sports become 
 idle and improvident, and lose caste among their 
 neighbours. A garden has also to be prepared, although 
 the variety that it will produce is not great. Still, 
 potatoes, cabbage, and pumpkins wiU be found acceptable 
 additions to the table; beans also can be grown, and are 
 a useful article of diet, combined with pork, for those 
 who have to work hard in winter. In Yankeeland, pork 
 and beans is a standing dish, and, when properly cooked, 
 is not to be despised. In choosing the situation of a 
 residence, high ground should be selected, more especially 
 if on the margin of a river or lake. Freshets will occur 
 on the breaking up of winter, and it is far from agreeable 
 or conducive to comfort to have one or two feet of water 
 in the interior of your dwelling. 
 
 Sheep can seldom be kept when the country is new 
 for they form so great an attraction to wolves that these 
 
Career of an Emigrant. 27/7 
 
 gentry are almost certain, sooner or later, to pay them 
 a visit, which will not cease till they have destroyed all. 
 Poultry, if unmolested, will do well ; but the skunk, 
 grey fox, and several varieties of hawk, are apt to be 
 troublesome in their attentions to them, more especially 
 to the young birds and chickens. If one or two of these 
 marauders be occasionally shot and hung up in a 
 conspicuous place as a warning to their mates, beneficial 
 results have frequently followed. A disagreeable incident 
 that too frequently occurs is the straying off of the milch 
 cattle and working oxen. Sometimes they wiU be gone 
 for days. To obviate this as much as possible, the 
 ringleader of the mischief, which is generally an old cow, 
 has a bell attached by a leather collar to her neck, the 
 tinkling of which can, in calm weather, be often heard 
 half-a-mile off. With what pleasure have I listened to 
 the tinkling of a cow bell! Every note speaks of your 
 approach to man's dwelling, and probably a resting-place ; 
 nothing but the deep voice of the honest watch-dog 
 speaks so emphatically to the wearied and perhaps 
 homeless wanderer. 
 
 Although timber is abundant, to provide the necessary 
 quantity of firewood for a family's use is no small labour, 
 for it has to be cut into lengths and split, and afterwards 
 piled within easy access of the door, and the consumption 
 of fuel during a Canadian winter is sufficient to astonish 
 the uninitiated. A good fire always gives an air of 
 comfort; therefore few regret the toil that is required to 
 produce it. As grain cannot well be used without 
 
278 Adventures in many Lands. 
 
 grinding, the more accessible and close the settler is to 
 a mill so much the better ; for many trips will have to be 
 paid to it, and bush-roads are not generally to be 
 commended for affording the means of rapid transit. If 
 the mill be on navigable water, a sale may possibly be 
 found for some of the settler's choice timber, and so bring an 
 ever-welcome supply of cash to his pockets. Considerable 
 outlay can be saved by the manufacture of your own 
 sugar. This takes place in the spring of the year, when 
 the warm sun causes a thaw during the day. The sap 
 then commences to ascend the trees, and by tapping or 
 notching the bark of the hard maple, and driving in a 
 spill underneath where the incisions are made, a bucketful 
 of liquid, or even more, may be obtained in the course of 
 a few hours. The sap is then collected from the rude 
 buckets into which it has fallen underneath the respective 
 trees, and is deposited in a large kettle to boil. Thus, 
 by degrees the moisture evaporates, the remains first 
 becoming molasses, ultimately sugar. Care must, however, 
 be taken that the whole does not boil over. This can be 
 obviated, if a person cannot be spared to be in constant 
 attention, by hanging a piece of fat pork over the caldron 
 so as to fall a few inches beneath the level of the rim. 
 On the sap boiling up to the pork, it will cease to ascend 
 any further. Making maple sugar is laborious work 
 when done on an extensive scale, for the trees and fire 
 require constant attention, and collecting sap, and possibly 
 having to carry it a hundred or more yards, through slush 
 and brush, is no joke. In the second season sundry 
 
Career of an Emigrant. 279 
 
 out-houses are generally erected, for we will suppose that 
 the emigrant is at length the possessor of a few head of 
 stock. Among these, pigs will probably be found the 
 most remunerative, for they require little or no food, except 
 in winter, and become fat on what they obtain in the 
 bush. Instead, therefore, of having to purchase your 
 supply of pork, it is provided at home — a saving of the 
 most expensive item in a family's expenditure. The only 
 drawback to the propagation of pigs are their predatory 
 habits and their liability to be eaten by bears. The 
 former proclivity it is almost impossible to prevent ; the 
 latter misfortune must be guarded against by the 
 destruction of Bruin, a feat well worth the trouble, for 
 the hide will sell for a considerable sum, and the flesh 
 make an acceptable addition to the larder. If a bear once 
 obtains a relish for pork, day after day he will desire 
 to gratify his appetite, and a young porker must pay the 
 penalty. I have even known Bruin come to a pig-sty 
 that had a covering of logs, roll them on one side, and 
 carry off a victim. In fact, I shot a bear one night in 
 the very act of committing such a depredation. The 
 pig-sty was under the gable window of a shanty in which 
 I was spending the night.' The father and mother had 
 gone with a grist to the miQ, which was some distance 
 off, and consequently they were not expected back till 
 the morrow. The pigs had been for half-an-hour 
 unusually noisy, when one of the children rushed into 
 my rude dormitory and informed me that a bear was 
 endeavouring to get into the hog-pen. Taking my gun. 
 
280 Adventures in many Lands, 
 
 I went to the window before mentioned, and there I saw 
 Mr. Bruin, for the moon was bright, lifting or rolling on 
 one side the logs that had been placed as a protection 
 against his inroad. Soon he had made an opening and 
 descended into the pen, returning immediately with a 
 porker, when I gave him. his quietus in the shape of 
 an ounce and a-haK of buck-shot fired within three or 
 four yards. 
 
 The persons who emigrate to Canada must be prepared 
 and able to work hard, to labour night and day for some 
 years — more particularly if they go where land is cheap. 
 By that time, what with the influx of emigration and 
 the iacrease of population, farms advance in value, for 
 markets are established nearer at hand, and the stamp 
 of civilisation becomes more apparent. The first years 
 have been spent in struggling and toiling to make both 
 ends meet; but during the latter years plenty of food, 
 if that constitutes happiness, is obtainable. With some 
 classes this is all that is desired; as for the educated, 
 and those who know the advantage of mixing with other 
 than boors, I feel confident in saying, their aim in life 
 points a little higher. 
 
 Courteous Eeadee, — ^We have now made the tour of 
 the world together. "We began our sporting experiences 
 in Scotland, when, as a mischievous school-boy, I 
 slaughtered an unfortunate robin. Going abroad, we 
 have fished in the blue depths of the Mediterranean ; we 
 
Career of an Emigrant. ^1 
 
 have hunted with a pack of staunch British hounds on 
 the soil of sunny Spain; we have climbed the spurs of 
 the rocky Atlas range in pursuit of game. Thence, we 
 have passsed to India, the favourite locale, of the military 
 sportsman, for there ranges the tusked wild boar, or lurks 
 the stealthy tiger and active panther. In China the game 
 we followed was of a more inoffensive description, but in 
 the Flowery Land, and still more in the fascinating islands 
 of Japan, we were repaid for the comparative tameness 
 of the sport by the interesting character of the country 
 and the people. Then we crossed the greatest ocean in 
 the world, the mighty Pacific, disembarked at the Golden 
 Gate, the land of auriferous wealth and American 
 enterprise, penetrated into the fastnesses of the interior, 
 encountering the buffalo and the grizzly bear amid the 
 illimitable prairies, or the sheltered valleys of the Eocky 
 Mountains ; and lastly, turning our faces homewards, we 
 have traced the slow progressive stages whereby the 
 Canadian backwoodsman hacks out of the gloomy forest 
 a smiling homestead, surrounded by abundant harvests of 
 golden grain. Eeader, my task is finished, so we must 
 part, yet not before I thank you heartily for your 
 companionship, and wish you a sincere farewell ! 
 
 Marcus Ward & Co , Royal Ulster Works, Belfast. 
 
BOOKS FOR BOYS. 
 
 Three Years at Woluerton : a Public School Story, By a 
 
 Wolvertonian. Coloured Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and 
 numerous Original Illustrations. Grown 8vo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 
 * ' The beat purely boy's book we have seen since ' Tom Brown/ " — Saturday Review. 
 
 ' ' "Well conceived and worked out, " — A thenc^im. 
 
 ' * Written throughout with a high tone and manly spirit. " — Academy, 
 
 " The book is manly, and has but little of the unreal sentiment which is so apt to 
 disfigure public school stories. Bertram is a well-conceived and natural character ; 
 and schoolboys can get nothing but good from reading of his failures and successes. 
 .~ . . We can recommend the book." — Guardian. 
 
 " A. capital book for boys, which is likely to instil right principles to guide them in 
 their school life." — Blackheathen School Magazine. 
 
 '* A decidedly interesting book.*' — Magdalen College School Journal. 
 
 Stirring Tales of the Sea, by S. Whitchurch Sadler, R.N. 
 The Flag-Ueutenant ; a Story of the Slave Squadron. With 
 
 Coloured Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and numerous Original 
 
 Illustrations. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 
 " A stirring and evidently faithful story of adventure, this handsome book forms 
 an excellent present for a boy, who would revel in its exciting incidents, and gloat over 
 its striking illustrations." — Glasgow News. 
 
 '* Well arranged and vigorously written." —World. 
 
 ** Will probably be a favourite with boys." — Academy, 
 
 " Captain Sadler constructs his story neatly, and knows how to throw in his 
 incidents, never obtruding the lessons he would teach in such a way as boys would not 
 like. " — Nonconformist. 
 
 "Is clearly the work of an old sailor, who knows, from long experience, what life 
 at sea is like, and has found out the shape in which boys like to have the yarn spun for 
 their express edification." — Stamda/rd. 
 
 " A good rattling sea story." — Scotsinan. 
 
 "A capital book for boys, full of excitement and gallant deeds. " — Vanity Fair. 
 
 Last Cruise of the Ariadne, With Coloured Frontispiece, 
 Illuminated Title-page, and numerous Original Illustrations. Crown 
 octavo, cloth extra . Price 5/-. 
 " A stirring story of the sea." — Academy. 
 
 " A narrative of adventure that will delight any reader." — Lloyd's WeeTcly News. 
 "A pleasant and spirited tSLle."^Spectator, 
 
 Perilous Seas, and how Orlana sailed them. With 
 
 Coloured Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and numerous Original 
 Illustrations. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 ** All through ' Perilous Seas ' there is enough stirring incident to arouse, and 
 enough good writing to sustain, the interest of its youthful readers." — Hour. 
 
 The Ship of ice : a Strange Story of the Polar Seas, With 
 
 Coloured Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and numerous Original 
 
 Illustrations. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 3/6. 
 
 "Not only a 'Strange Story,' but one full of exciting interest. ..:... 
 The author writes in a vigorous, manly style, and the book is one which most 
 English boys, with their love of daring and adventui'e, are likely heartily to relish. 
 — Pall Mall Gazette. 
 
 "A capital book of adventure.'*' — Manchester Guardian. 
 
BOOKS FOR BOYS— Continued. 
 By C. H. Eden. 
 
 The White Lily of the Great Sahara. With numerous 
 
 Original Illustrations. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 "The whole story is exceedingly exciting, and it may be doubted if any small boy 
 to whom it is presented will willingly lay it down until he has finished it." — Momvnf) 
 
 " The author exhibits the skill of a practised hand in connecting his incidents by 
 means of a simple plot. " — Aaademy, 
 
 " A very well and effectively told tale of life among the Algerine Arabs. . . The 
 volume is altogether got up with great taste. " — NonconformUt. 
 
 Coralie; or, the Wreck of the Sybille. With Coloured 
 
 Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and numerous Original Illustra- 
 tions. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 "The details of savage life and adventure localising the story are carefolly and 
 
 accurately given." — Morning Post. 
 
 "An ingenious little romance." — Times. 
 
 "The whole tone and drift of the book, too, are good, and young people will find in 
 
 it much that is curious to interest and instruct them in the doings of brave men," 
 
 Standard. 
 
 Ralph Somerville; or, a Midshipman's Adventures in the 
 
 Pacific Ocean. With Coloured Frontispiece, Illuminated Title-page, and 
 numerous Original Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra. Price 5/-, 
 " There is always an air of reality about Mr, Eden's descriptive passages which 
 makes one feel that they are the result of actual experience." — Morning Post, 
 
 Christopher Columbus and the Discovery of the New World, 
 
 From the French of M. le Makquis de Bellot. With Fifty-one 
 Drawings on Wood and Six Etchings, by Leopold Flameno. Demy 
 quarto, gilt edges. Price Two Guineas. 
 
 " Adorned with some noble engravings and striking woodcuts . . . altogether 
 an edition de luxe worthy of a place among the best books of the season."— Stondard. 
 
 The Black Crusoe, From the French of Alfred Seguin. With 
 
 Seventy Illustrations engraved on Wood by M. Meaulle, from Designs 
 by MM. H. SooTT, Meyer, Fbedinandtts, &c. Royal octavo, 
 cloth extra, gilt edges. Price 8/-. 
 
 " One of the handsomest and most attractive volumes ever turned out of the 
 splendid press of Messrs. Marcus Ward & Co. "^Sunday Times. 
 
 " The large elegant volume will form a desirable gift-book for many." — Nmiconjor- 
 mist. 
 
 " The illustrations are excellent." — ExamAner. 
 
 " Beautifully printed ; the illustrations are admirable; the translation ia very good 
 indeed. The story is extremely interesting, and reminds th« reader of Jules Verne."— 
 Athenceum. 
 
 BOOK ON FISHING FOR BOYS. 
 
 The Boy's Walton. By TJlick J. Burke, B.A. Numerous 
 
 Illustrations. Small octavo, cloth extra. Price 2/-. 
 
 "A capital book on fishing "—Academy. 
 
 " A very good boy's book upon a delightful subject." — Lloyd's News. 
 
NOVELS BY F. FRANKFORT MOORE. 
 
 Where the Rail Runs Now : a Story of the Coaching Days. 
 
 By F. Frakkfort Mooke. "With Illustrations. Small octavo, cloth 
 extra. Price 2/6. 
 
 **There is no lack of sensationalincidents, but the storyistold, in very simple lan- 
 guage, and will serve to create no other than a healthy excitement " — The Times. 
 
 * ' A clever little novel. " — Saturday Review. 
 
 *'We can strongly recommend this little hook."— Spectator. 
 
 " The author's descriptions of English scenery are picturesque and unaffected."— 
 Daily News. 
 
 " A capital book for a railway journey, or to amuse an Idle hour."— PaZZ Mall 
 Gazette. 
 
 Told by the Sea : Tales of the Coast. By F. Frankfort 
 
 Moore. "With Illustrations. Small octavo, cloth extra. Price 2/6. 
 
 '• 'Told by the Sea' is a collection of stories very different in character, and only' 
 alike in merit. The earliest in order, which is entitled ' The Last Tarn of Our Cruise/ 
 is a powerful, if rather sensational, narrative. That which follows, entitled * Mr. 
 Plassington's Journal,' is one of the cleverest comic sketches we have ever read. It 
 absolutely overflows with drollery— genuine, irresistible drollery— and in the description 
 of an old sailor whom" it introduces shows a power of observation worthy of Dickens. 
 If Mr. Frankfort Moore can write many stories like this, he will maintain a permanent 
 place in literature."— Siwiday Times. 
 
 The Mate of the Jessica : a Story of the South Paoiflo, By 
 
 F. Frankfort Moore. Two volumes, price 21/-. 
 •* Exceptionally weU written and interesting." — Morning Post, 
 " A book that will delight boys. In a very few chapters we have a terrific scene 
 with the captain in delirium tremens: the captain is thrown to sharks; a young and 
 lovely girl escapes in a long-boat with a boatswain ; there is a fight, a calm, a submarine 
 earthquake, a tornado (capital reading), a mutiny, a ship on fire, a villain pitched into 
 the roaring element, a raft, and a rescue. . . . This work will suit a healthy taste." 
 —Academy. 
 
 MR. EDEN'S NEW BOOK. 
 
 Ula, in Veldt and Laager : a Tale of the Zulus. By C. H. 
 
 Eden, F.R.G.S. One volume, price 10/6. 
 
 "An interesting story. . . . His pictures of Cetewayo ; of Kozi, a favourite 
 warrior of the king's; of Nomtebe, a sorceress, and her disgusting incantations; of a 
 Dutch farmer, an English settler, and a missionary, as well as his sketches of Zulu 
 life and Boer life, have an indisputable air of reality. His types are well chosen and 
 well drawn." — Athencevm. 
 
 ** Well told, contains many striking incidents." — Examiner. 
 
 "The description of Cetewayo and his Court is very amusing and lifelike.'" — 
 Guardian. 
 
BOOKS OF TRAVEL. 
 
 Heroes of North African Discovery. By ]Sr. d'Anvees. 
 
 Map and numerous Illustrations. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 
 " A mass of carefully-digested information, drawn from over forty different works. 
 . . . The work is well aod carefully printed, contains numerous illustrations, and 
 what is especially essential, a good map of Africa, corrected down to the present date, 
 and giving in red the routes of travellers," — The Colonies arud India. 
 
 ' ' All who wish to have a fair knowledge of what has been hitherto achievedin the 
 field of African discovery should read this interesting and instructive volume."— iv'oture. 
 
 Heroes of South African Discovery. By K d*Anvers. 
 
 Author of '* Debbie and Dobbie's Master." Map and numerous 
 
 Illustrations. A companion volume to * * Heroes of North African 
 
 Discovery." Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 
 "The two volumes should undoubtedly he in everyone's possession, for by their 
 perusal it will not be difficult to realise the vast amount of labour and enterprise 
 which have been needed to fill up the great blank which the map of Africa presented 
 but a very few years ago."— r/te Ov&rland Mail. 
 
 China, Historicai and Descriptive. By C. H. Eden. With 
 
 an Appendix on COREA. Numerous Illustrations, Map, and Coloured 
 
 Frontispiece by a Native Artist. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 5/-. 
 
 " A concise and interesting account of China, and of the manners and customs of 
 the inhabitants of that vast country." — Academy, 
 
 " Carefully compiled from reco^ised authorities, and here presented in a convenient 
 shape," — World. 
 
 " The four chapters on Corea, which are chiefly based on the valuable introductory 
 matter prefixed to Dallet's * Histoire de I'Eglise de Cor6e,' bear signs of being carefully 
 written, and will be read with the greater interest," — The Overland Mail. 
 
 '* The book will be found useful by all those who wish to obtain a good general 
 view of a vei-y wide and important subject." — Standard. 
 
 "In a thick small octavo, Mr. Eden tells the story of Cliina in an attractive 
 manner." — Scotsman. 
 
 Japan, Historicai and Descriptive. A comprehensive account 
 
 of Japanese History, Life, Character, and Manners. By C. H. Eden, 
 Author of ** India, Historical and Descriptive," &c. Seventy -five 
 Illustrations, Map, and Coloured Frontispiece. Crown octavo, cloth 
 extra. Price 3/6. 
 
 *' A very clear and comprehensive view of Japanese life, character, and manners. " — 
 Morning Advertiser. 
 
 ' ' There have been few books at once ao valuable and so accessible 
 
 Another right good work to the many rare issues of the Belfast Press. " — Art Journal. 
 
 "A clever, cheerful book." — Morning Post. 
 
 "A complete history of the growth, of Japan. . . . A good, valuable, and 
 profoundly interesting book." — Times. 
 
 India, Historical and Descriptive. With an Account of the 
 
 Sepoy Mutiny of 1857-58, by C. H. Eden, Author of "Ralph 
 Somerville," &c. Sixty-six Illustrations, Map, and Coloured Frontis- 
 piece. Crown octavo, cloth extra. Price 3/6. 
 " The illustrations are well executed." — Standard, 
 
 "A clever little book, containmg an excellent and most readable account of our 
 greatest dependency." — Daily Telegraph, 
 "An interesting volume,"— Gropftic. 
 
BOOKS OF TRkVEL-Contmued. 
 
 Notes of Travel in Egypt and Nubia. By J. L. Stephens. 
 
 Revised and enlarged, with an account of the Suez Canal. Seventy- 
 one Illustrations, Map, and Coloured Frontispiece. Crown octavo, 
 cloth extra. Price 3/6. 
 
 " A very entertaining, well-written little volume."— GrapMc. 
 "The little volume is unexceptionable. " — Daily Telegraph. 
 
 &t\n (EBitions of Staniarti Siaorfes* 
 
 Robinson Crusoe. By Daniel Defoe. Crown octavo, cloth 
 extra. "With Coloured Frontispiece and Title-page, and numerous 
 Illustrations. Price 3/6. 
 "Remarkable as'possessing the very best illustrations with which any popular 
 
 edition has been issued."— Sunday Times. 
 
 Swiss Family Robinson. A JSTew Translation from the German, 
 with numerous Illustrations and Coloured Frontispiece. Crown octavo, 
 cloth extra. Price 3/6. 
 
 "A new edition, bountifully enriched with excellent piotuies."— Baiij/ Telegraph. 
 "A goodly volume, adorned with some clever and picturesque woodcuts." — 
 Standard. 
 
 " Could not be found in a better form than this. "—Scotsman. 
 
 "Beautiful edition, with coloured prints and fine wood engravings. " — Nonconformist. 
 
 " Well printed, well bound." — World. 
 
 The Vicar of Wal<efield. By Oliver Goldsmith. Crown 
 octavo, cloth extra. With Coloured Frontispiece and Title-page and 
 numerous Illustrations. Price 3/6. 
 "A charming edition." — Morning Post. 
 "A really pretty and cheap edition." — The Nonconformist. 
 
 BirtijOag i^egtsters. 
 
 The Birthday Year. With Selections from Chaucer to Long- 
 fellow, chronologically arranged, printed on Writing Paper. With 
 Illuminated Title-page. Coth extra, 2/-; gilt edges, 2/6 ; Limp French 
 Morocco, 3/6 ; and in Morocco extra, 7/-. 
 A superb edition of the above, with Illuminated Pages, and Vignette 
 
 Portraits of the Poets, handsomely bound in cloth, gilt edges. Price 7/6. 
 
 Linlis of Memory: a Birthday Register and Daily Text Book. 
 
 Compiled by Frances A. Shaw, with a Preface by Feancbs R. 
 Havergal. With Illuminated Frontispiece. 32mo. Cloth, gilt edges, 
 1/-; Leatherette, 1/-; Limp French Morocco extra, gilt edges, 1/6 ; 
 Limp Calf, 2/-; Limp Smooth Russia extra, 3/-. 
 
 Red Letter Days: a Register of Anniversaries and Birth- 
 days. By Frances Ridley Havergal. With Illuminated Frontis- 
 piece and Title-page. Cloth extra, 2/-; gilt edges, 2/6 ; Limp French 
 Morocco, 3/6 ; and in Morocco extra, 7/-. 
 
MARCUS WARD'S 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WAVERLEY NOVELS. 
 
 Oomplete in Twenty-fiye Half-Orown Voluines. 
 
 fPHE expiration of Copyright in Sir Walter Scott's Novels enables Haecus Ward & 
 J- Co. to offer to the Public an. Entirely New Edition, at a popular price, with 
 numerous Illustrations (drawn and engraved expressly by first-class Artists), and 
 strongly bound in a New Style, ready for the librarj'. 
 
 The Edition is most carefully printed in clear, bold type, on fine paper, and the 
 text is identical with the Original Edition, containing all the Author's Notes, etc. 
 
 As each Volume 'contains one or more Complete Tales, this Edition compares 
 favourably in cost with other Illustrated Editions, in which one tale generally occupies 
 two volumes. . 
 
 THE NEW PLUTARCH: 
 
 Hues of those who have made the History of the World, 
 
 POST 8to, cloth. PEIOE HALF-A-OEOWKT. 
 
 MARCUS WARD & CO. are now issuing periodically, under the joint Editorship of 
 Walter Besant, M.A., and Rev. W J. Bbodbibb, M.A., a series of Biographies, 
 which will be called the " New Plutarch." 
 
 Every volume will contain the life of one man or woman, around whose name will 
 be gathered not only the deeds which have made that one life memorable, but also those 
 events which make a remarkable period in the world's history. These volumes will 
 present pictures of the time, as well as the events and conditions of a single life, which 
 will render them at onee delightful to the general reader and instructive to the student. 
 They will not be written as school text-books, and yet will be largely intended for use 
 in that process of self-education which is carried on at all periods of life, in age as well 
 as in youth. 
 
 The Books at present arranged for are as follows. The Publishers do not, 
 however, promise that the order here given will be strictly observed. 
 COLIGrNY, AND THE FAILURE OF THE FRENCH REFORMATION. 
 
 With a Portrait. By Walter Besant, M.A. [Published. 
 
 JUDAS MACCABEUS, and xftE Revival of the Jewish 
 
 Nationality. With a Map. By Lieut. C. R. Conder, R.E. {Published. 
 
 ABRAHAM LINCOLN, and the Abolition of Slavery. 
 
 With a Portrait. By Charles G. Leland. [Published. 
 
 VICTOR EMMANUEL, and the Attainment of Italian 
 
 Unity. With a Portrait. By Edward Dicey, M.A. 
 
 JOAN or ARC, AND THE Expulsion of the English from 
 
 France. By Janet Tuckey. 
 ALEXANDER THE GREAT and his Age. By Rev. W. J. 
 
 Brodribb, M.A. 
 
 THE CALIPH HAROUN AL RASCHID, and Saracen 
 
 Civilisation. By Prof. E. H. Palmer, M.A. 
 RICHELIEU and his Court. By Walter Merries 
 
 PoLT.orK, M.A. 
 
 HANNIBAL and Carthaginian Civilisation. By Samuel 
 
 Lee, M.A. 
 
 HAROLD FAIR HAIR and the Scandinavians. By Erik 
 
 Magn6sson, M.A. 
 CHAELEMAGNE and his Time. By Prof. Beesley. 
 GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS. By Richard Garnett. 
 WHITTINGTON, Lord Mayor of London. By James Rice. 
 
 MARCUS WARD & CO., LONDON, BELFAST, & PHILADELPHIA.