ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass _y-^£C^r-- rr"-" ~ ~ f"r'''";^P?!^'"""'^ From Home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 089 544 260 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089544260 THE MODERN COOK BOOK AND ;^.,ijl . HOUSEHOLD RECIPES " Compiled bg many of the Famous Chefs and Cooking Experts of the United States ^ REVISED AND EDITED BY LILY HAXWORTH WALLACE Lecturer on Poods, Contributor to the "National Food Magazine," Etc. Price $3.50 WARNER LIBRARY COMPANY Neio York TX Copyright, 1904, by The New Werner Company Copyright, 1912, by The New Werner Company CONTENTS I. Food . . . . . . .1 II. The Compound Foods ... 14 III. Meat 33 IV. Fish 43 V. Milk 67 VI. Eggs 88 VII. Foods of Vegetable Origin . .95 VIII. Food Estimates 103 IX. The Art of Cookery .... 114 X. Building Fires 131 XL Soup Stock 135 XII. Gravies and Sauces .... 146 XIII. Boiling 150 XIV. Stewing 158 XV. Frying 166 XVI. Braising 174 XVII. Casserole 177 XVIII. Broiling 180 XIX. Baking 185 XX. Roasting 188 XXI. Steaming 193 XXII. Mixing Batters and Fritters . . 196 XXIII. Larding, Blanching, Boning . . 303 XXIV. Beverages' '. . ... .205 XXV. Vegetables 309 XXVI. Cereals 334 XXVIL Bread 339 XXVIII. Salads 337 XXIX;. Pastry 347 XXX. Cake-making 363 XXXI. Preserves 373 XXXIL Nuts 375 XXXIIL Desserts 377 XXXIV Cookery for Invalids .... 379 XXXV. Miscellaneous Information . . 393 CONTENTS Soups Soup Stock 301 Broths 338 Cream Soups . . . . . . . 334 Bisques . . . . . . . . 353 Soups with Meat and Purees . . . 359 Soups without Meat 384 Chowders 389 A Group of Foreign Soups, etc. . . - . 400 Fish . . 408 Oysters and Shellfish 473 Sauces for Fish and Meats . . . . . 483 Dressings 503 Meats Beefsteaks 505 Beef Roasts, etc 510 Meat and Poultry Pies 528 Mutton 538 Lamb 544 Pork, Sausages, etc. 550 Veal 568 Meat Pies 591 Poultry and Game Chicken . . i., i., ,. • . . 596 Turkey 603 Duck .,..,. i. . ... . 608 Goose .... •.■ . ,., . . 611 Hare or Rabbit ......... 614 Partridge 616 Plover 617 Pigeon . . . «; ■.. ..... 618 Quail t., . . . 619 Pheasant 619 Snipe . . . . . ■ 630 Grouse 631 Venison ......... 631 Woodcock .633 Sauces for Game 633 Entrees 637 CONTENTS Eggs 633 Omelets 641 Vegetables 647 Fruits and Cereals 763 Bread and Cakes 778 RoLLfe, 788 MuFFiNst Buns, and Biscuit . . . 788 Sandwiches 797 Batter Cakes . . . . . . . 807 Griddle Cakes, etc. 813 Fillings and icings 834 Gingerbreads 846 Small Cakes 847 Doughnuts and Crullers .... 853 Salads and Relishes . . . ' . . . 854 Salads and Salad Dressings . . . ,855 Fish Relishes 896 Pickle Relishes 899 Invalid Cooker-^ 905 Jelly ; ... 914 Canning Fruit 917 Ices, Pastry, and Other Desserts . . . 931 Boiled Puddings 937 Baked Puddings 934 Whipped-Cream Desserts .... 953 Pudding Sauces, 95'J' Ice Creams and Ices 963 Candies . ...,..-•. 978 Cheese Dishes 986 Chafing-dish Recipes 993 Nuts and Their Uses ..... 1005 " Carving 1010 Beverages • • • 1021 Menu Terms in Foreign Languages . . . 1043 Names of Meats, Fruits, and Vegetables in Various Languages 1043 Terms Used in Cooking ....... 1046 Index 1065 LESSON I FOOD Op all the subjects capable of tempting the pen of the scholar, the professional man, and even the amateur, none has been more prolific or more exploited than that of food; and the number of works which treat of it, either in its entirety or along the lines of the different sciences which spring from it, are innumerable. Some have discussed it from the economic, the philosophical, and the social point of view. Others have followed the more direct line of cooking and have made it the subject of wise scientific essays ; while another class have sung and glorified the pleasures of the palate. What- ever may be the intrinsic merit of these works, they all point to the perfection of the art of good living, which plays an important part in the march of human progress and of civilization. There can never be too many of such works, so varied are the kinds : and the more new ones produced, the greater will be the emulation, the more will a knowledge of the true scientific principles of food and feeding be disseminated, ^~ THE COOKING SCHOOL and the more quickly and thorougMy will be popularized the correct methods and practices in the art of preparing and supplying food. The question of the proper nourishment of the body is wisely regarded as of the highest importance, since it alone, with rest of the wearied body, assures the suppleness of muscle, the vigor of the system, and the power of the mind. But in order to properly realize the com- plex problem of food, it is highly necessary to know the good and bad qualities of food stuffs ; to be able to select and to treat them according to the laws of hygiene and the rites of proper cooking; to know the proper value and the use of accessories and sauces, without which one can never attain to the niceties of seasoning and taste. To one who realizes the importance of proper preparation, and of sure guidance in these mat- ters, there has always been the uncertainty of knowing where to find the precise, certain teachings ; the processes sanctioned by the prac- tices which, in association with scientific con- tributions, enable one to adjust the question of food to tastes, , ages, disposition, occupations, and climate. The object of this work is to present, as far as possible, the sum of our knowledge of the art of maintaining good health by proper nourish- FOOD 3 ment. An effort is made to present all that is worth knowing upon the subject by contribu- tions from the pens of the highest medical authorities, famous chemical analysts, emi- nently successful housekeepers, and most ex- cellent cooks. It aims to be a sure guide and a reliable coun- sellor to the whole household economy, whether pretentious or simple. The facilities of an elaborate establishment, faultlessly equipped, are not of course to be compared to those of a remotely situated farmer's cottage ; but the same knowledge, the same care ought to direct the preparation of the meals of those who inhabit the one or the other. The more a kitchen is ordered by hygienic laws, the more it rests upon demonstrated facts, the more it bases its formu- las upon the gifts of professional students ; the- more will the art of cooking tend to become an exact science; and the hazard and chance of a well-cooked, nourishing meal be eliminated. The rapid advance of the applied sciences, and more especially that of chemistry, make it com- pulsory upon the one who holds the key of the health and welfare of the family to summon to her aid all of the forces for the satisfactory so- lution of the diBBcult problems relating to the wholesomeness of food. ■ It is especially true that the person to whom THE COOKING SCHOOL is entrusted the choice and selection of foods should not act blindly or unintelligently in the matter. It is extremely important that such should know the nutritive value and digesti- bility of the diet of each individual, and what constitutes the proper ration of each, not in quantity, but in quality and kind. As meats play such an important part in the household economy, they are made the subject of careful study. Poultry and game are not less minutely studied: all of the preliminary processes are faithfully described by a demonstration of methods of dressing, carving, etc. FOOD AND ITS VALUE A good table, in the hygienic sense of the word, is the principal element of good health. It is, therefore, necessary to understand clearly what hygiene teaches us is a good table. Science is everywhere making rapid strides. In industry, commerce, and everywhere, the habits of chance, and of haphazard, are giving way, little by little, to scientific methods. The time has come when we are able to take ad- vantage of the exact knowledge of foods and their values which science has placed at our disposal. It is doubtless difficult in practice, except perhaps in large and fully equipped FOOD 5 kitchens, to conform exactly to the scientific rules; but one is able to draw from them suffi- cient direction to enable one to proceed upon right lines and according to right principles in this most importaut of all matters. The human body has been long ago likened to a lamp or a fire, which bijrns, its food as a stove consumes the fuel with which it is supplied. It is a frequent, poetic figure to speak of the " spark of life," or of the life which flickers, goes out, or kindles as a flame. And science will bear out this poetic metaphor, if one does not take it literally nor push the figure too far. Lavoisier, the eminent French chemist of the eighteenth century, proved conclusively that we are very like a lamp which consumes itself or as a fire that burns. The digestion supplies the necessary combustible material, and the breath- ing with the lungs is at once the draught which supplies the, air to the burning fire and the chim- ney which carries. off the gaseous products. The heat furnished by this combustion of our food is that which keeps our bodies at the proper temperature. It has further been said that our bodies are not only fire which produces heat, but, are at the same time machines capable of doing work, — that they are steam-engines in which the combustible materials supply by their destruction both heat and woi'k. THE CCWKING SCHCXX This is true with one exception: In a steam- engine that which burns and is destroyed is the fuel. The machine itself is made up of pieces of metal, the wear and tear of which are insignifi- cant and almost of no account. But in the hu- man body not only is the food consumed, but all the pieces of the body ;.the tissues, bones, and all its parts are used up and destroyed. It must, therefore, be plain that our food performs the double part of supplying the fuel for the human engine, and of continuously repairing its parts. Let us now consider the materials which are capable of performing this double duty in the economy of man. SIMPLE AND COMPOUND FOODS The materials with which man repairs the losses which he continually sustains are derived by him from the tissues of plants and animals. Plants furnish either grains, such as the grains of cereals which give us meal and bread; or the leguminous grains, as peas, beans, etc.; with roots and tubers, as carrots, turnips, and po- tatoes ; with leaves, as lettuce, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, etc. ; or with fruits, as apples, pears, oranges, cherries, peaches, apricots, etc. From animals we derive three classes of products ; the flesh, or meat with its accompanying fats ; milk and its products, cheese and butter; and eggs. FOOD 7 _ : 1 , All of these foods ai:e known as compound foods, because they are infinitely complex in their nature and chemical composition. Chem- istry has determined beyond doubt that there are four types of simple foods derived from this complex mass of compound animal and vegetable foods : 1. The albumens. 2. The fats. 3. The starches and sugars. 4. The mineral matter, or salts. Milk, the ideal food for the young, embodies in itself these four types of simple foods. And it is from an examination of it that we can best come to an understanding of these types. If we allow the milk to stand for a time in a suit- able vessel, we will see the, cream rise little by little to the top and form a yellowish layer or covering. This cream, when skimmed and churned, solidifies into butter, and here we see one of the types of simple foods, viz., fat. The skim milk when treated with rennet and subjected to pressure yields cheese, which is a simple food of the type of albumen. If the liquid which remains be slowly evaporated over the fire, we will procure yellowish crystals of sugar of milk, a type of the starches and sugars. Lastly, if the liquid be completely evaporated there will remain some solid matter much re- THE COOKING SCHOOL sembling the common salt of the household. This is an example of the fourth type; the mineral matter or salt from the milk. Chemical analysis of all of the elementary foods has shown that imder the infinite variety of outward aspects which they present^ whether meat, eggs, vegetables, or fruits, there are al- ways present one or more of the four varieties of simple foods, and these determine the char- acter of the food. To estimate the value of an article of diet is to know what it contains in the way of albu- mens, fats, starches or sugars, and mineral matter. Practically these four types repre- sent all that is necessary to supply the wants' of the human body. The fundamental problem of supplying proper food consists in combining these types in suitable quantities, and under the most favorable forms to satisfy the needs of each individual. It is to be remembered that though these simple types of food are present, yet they are in very variable proportions. Therefore, in order to properly apportion a daily ration exactly suited to the needs of each person, it is necessary to combine the several compound foods, such as milk, bread, meat, vegetables, grains, and fruits, in such a way that the individual will obtain from them the albu- men, fats, sugars and starches, and salts which FOOD 9 are needed for the thorough nourishment of the body. A thorough and intelligent knowledge of this important subject necessitates the considera- tion of ^ 1. The simple foods. 2. The compound foods. 3. The manner in which it is necessary to combine these in order to make a diet; then to select the proper quantities of each, so as to form a ration for each person. 4. The manner of dividing that ration into the several meals. THE SIMPLE POODS The simple foods, which constitute the truly nourishing portion of what we eat, present themselves to us in a very great variety of ex- ternal forms. One finds it difficult to appreci- ate, for instance, that the flesh of meat and the white of an egg are composed of exactly the same substance, viz., albumen. But whoever wishes to consider food in its true light as an article of nourishment must learn to ignore the external appearance of the several articles and to regard them as so much of this or that simple food. Albumen. — The type of this class of food is the white of an egg, which the Latins called JO THE COOKING SCHOOL albumen, and which is a solution of almost pure albumen in water. All of the animal and vege- table tissues contain some albumen in varying degrees; so it is found in all the compound foods. Meat is composed almost entirely of albumen of several sorts, combined one with the other. The albumen of milk has already been referred to as casein or cheese. Bread con- tains, in addition to a certain quantity of starchy food, an albuminous substance known as gluten, which predominates in the " gluten bread," or the whole-wheat bread so beneficial to diabetics. All of the vegetables and fruits contain also more or less albumen. Even the grass of the field upon which the cows feed contains the al- bumen which is an indispensable article of food for all living beings. All of the albuminous forms, whether the white of an egg or the semi-solid mass as found in meat, possess the quality of being coagu- lated by heat. By coagulation is meant the act of changing into a hard and elastic mass. This change occurs when a raw egg is changed into a hard-boiled egg, or when a piece of raw beef is changed into boiled or cooked beef by the action of heat. Fats. — This class of foods is probably the most commonly known of the four types of simple foods. The major part of the fats FCX)D IJ whicli we eat are not disguised and hidden in the compound foods. They are added to the ration of food voluntarily. There are hardly any species of meats which are not accom- panied by sufficient fat for their proper prepa- ration as food. The majority of other foods, and especially the vegetables, require the addi- tion of artificial fats, such as butter and lard, among the animal fats, and of olive oil, etc., from the vegetable kingdom. Starches and Sugars. — Relatively very large quantities of these are eaten by us every day, as we shall see further on, whether they are found in the compound foods, or are added by ourselves to our dishes. Starch occurs largely in bread, in the form of flour starch or wheat starch; and in potatoes and other vegetables. These supply naturally the starch elements of our food. Arrowroot, tapioca, and sago are starchy foods extracted from the trunks of trees in tropical, countries. Sugars are furnished naturally by certain substances of vegetable origin, as the fruit- sugars from grapes, apricots, pears, peaches, etc., and as special products such as honey. Sugar is artificially prepared from sugar cane and from beet-root. The starches and sugars are grouped together because, in the process of digestion, starches are changed into sugar. 12 THE COOKING SCHOOL This begins in the mouth under the action of the saliva and is completed in the intestines. Salt and Mineral Matter. — This type of food is best represented by the table salt, the chlo- ride of sodium of the chemist. It is added to our foods both in cooking and at the table. But this is not the only salt which we consume. We daily absorb a number of others which are absolutely necessary to our bodily welfare. These are found in all of the articles of which we partake. TJiey constitute the ashes which remain when articles of animal or of vegetable origin are burned. They include the sulphates, phosphates, and chlorides of potassium, so- dium, magnesium, lime, and iron. Salts are a part of our bodily structure, and are necessary to its growth and to the upbuilding of the wear- ing tissues. Iron is needed to repair and to supply the red corpuscles of the bloodj Lime and the phosphates are necessary to the growth of the skeleton. All of the salt& which are needed for the growth and repair of the body are contained in the articles of our food, with the single exception of the common salt which we add as a seasoning; There is a peculiar physiological reason for salting our food. It is well known that among the wild animals only the grass-eating or herbivorous animals care for salt. The vegetables contain an abundance FOOD t3 of the salts of potassium, and when they are taken into the system the potassium eliminates the sodimn forom the body and thus the amount of it is diminished and must be supplied artifi- cially. In flesh-eating animals the supplies of potassium and sodium are more nearly even, and no elimination of the one by the other occurs. LESSON 11 THE COMPOUND FOODS We have considered the four types of simple foods—albumens, fats, starches and sugars, and mineral matter — separately. We have now to consider them mingled together in vary- ing proportions in the compound foods in which they occur. FOODS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN 1. The several sorts of butcher's meats. 2. Poultry and game. 3. Fish. 4. Milk, with its products — butter and cheese. 5. Eggs. Meat. — Meat is made up of the muscles com- posed of fibres interlaced with one another and running in a direction easily noticeable in the cut of meat. The tendons, or masses of white, elastic fibres, are also to be seen. Each muscle is surrounded by a whitish membrane which completely envelops it and allows free passage of one muscle over another. In the portions of the meat which are less desirable for food THE COMPOUND FOODS 15 these membranes are thicker, tougher, and more numerous. In the case of domestic animals which have been ' ' stall-fed ' ' or artificially fat- tened, we find deposits of fat over the body. These are not to be seen in the case of game and of animals that have lived free and unre- strained. To show that this absence of fat is the result of muscular activity, we need only cite the case of the pig, which is noted for its fat, and its indolent life. The flesh of freshly killed animals is hard and tough and becomes even more so under the ac- tion of heat. After twenty-four hours it is found that the muscular rigidity has disap- peared. During this time the small quantity of starchy matter which the flesh contains becomes changed into lactic acid, which permeates the meat and sets up a disintegrating action which renders the meat miibh more tender. A similar artificial action is carried on in the kitchen, when a piece of tough meat is macerated for a time in such an acid as vinegar or wine to make it tender. The chief constituents of meat are: water, albumen, and fat. There is very little starch or sugar; and the salts do not amount to one part in a hundred. The following table illus- trates the quantities contained in 100 ounces of meat. a 2 16 THE COOKING SCHOOL COMPOSITION OF FRESH MEAT Water Albnmen Fat Beef, very fat . . 53 17 29 moderately fat 73 21 S lean . 76 21 2 Veal, fat 72 19 7 lean . 78 20 1 Mutton, very fat 53 16 29 moderately fat 76 17 6 Pork, fat 47 14 37 lean . 73 20 7 The most abundant element of meat is water. Moderately fat or lean meat is nearly three- quarters water, and one-fifth albumen. The quantity of fat, of course, varies. The three principal foods of animal origin are meat, eggs, and milk. The first two contain only the albu- men and fats. Milk alone contains starch or sugar. Thus it can be seen that a diet of meat or eggs will not supply the atarch or sugar, and, that to get it, it is necessary to add bread. . With reference to veal, the Germans have a saying: " Kalbfleisch ist Halbfleisch," that veal is only half a meat. This is prompted by the well-known experience that, as an article of food and nourishment, veal is less satisfying and less lasting than are other meats. The place that albumen takes in other meats is taken by a sort of gelatine in veal ; and gelatine is far inferior to albumen as an article of nutriment. THE COMPOUND FOODS »7 DIGESTIBrLITY OF MEATS AND OP PATS There is mucli error in the popular mind as to what constitutes digestibility of food. In gen- eral any food is said to be digestible which, even when eaten in large quantities, does not occa- sion pain and suffering, or cause a feeling of fulness after eating. A more scientific test is that; which tells the length of time that the food remains in the stomach or in the digestive tube ; or rather the length of time necessary for the complete digestion of such and such an article in such and such quantities. But the most ac- curate method of expressing the digestibility of an article of food is to tell in what proportion it is absorbed by the digestive tube. ^ Every one admits that roast meat is more di- gestible than raw meat or boiled meat. Poul- try or roast veal, the so-called white meats, are said to be very easily digested, and are conse- quently selected for invalids. These differ- ences are doubtless due to the greater or less delicacy of the muscular fibres which offer a varying resistance to the digestive juices ; and . also to the quantity and nature of the fat which pertains to each sort of meat. This last point is very important ; we are ac^ customed to say that the digestion of fat in a healthy person is in general good. But it can 18 THE COOKING SCHOOL be shown that a ration of a few ounces of fat m 24 hoTirs represents an accomplishment which is hardly performed by those living in northern countries, yet experiment shows that the di- gestive tube is capable of absorbing consider- ably larger quantities. Thus in one series of tests it was found that of three ounces of butter, all but six grains were absorbed, but the results with other fats were not so good. Of the fat of mutton, which does not melt at so low a point as does butter, about 10 per cent, did not absorb. But liquid fats, such as olive oil, which are kept as liquids by the heat of the body, were wholly digested. In general the stomach seems to experience a sort of antipathy to fats, and there is a tendency to arrest digestion . by using them. We are all able to tell the effect upon ourselves and upon our digestions by the f odds which are very rich in fats, and especially those of fish, which are fatter than others. It is probable that fat plays a great part in giving to the several kinds of meat their dis- tinctive taste. This is a point to be borne in mind in frying, as the fat used i6 very likely to impart its flavor to the food which is cooked in it. THE COMPOUND FOODS J9 THE NUTEITIVE VALUE OF BOTJILLOlir AND OP MEAT EXTEACT A quantity of bouillon made in the ordinary way, without completely destroying the boiled meat, contains approximately the following matter : Albumen, .3 to .4 per cent. Gelatine, .3 to .6 per cent. Fat, .5 to 1 per cent. Salts (natural and added), 1.3 to 1.5 per cent. Ex- tractive matter, .6 to .7 per cent. Water, 95.5 to 97 per cent. Much of the albumen of the meat rises to the top as scum and is removed. Only a small quantity of the albumen dissolves in the liquid, on account of the natural acid which is present in the meat. The gelatine is present in a quantity less than IQ per cent., which proportion causes liquid to congeal on cooling. A bouillon which would so congeal is not at all_ desirable. The fat varies according to the nature of the meat used. Very fat bouillon may contain from 3.3 to 4 per cent, of fat, but such quantities are usually repugnant and are not easily borne by persons with weak stomachs. It is safe to say that the quantities of albu- men and fat supplied by a portion of bouillon are about the same as those yielded by two or three-spoonfuls of cow's milk. 20 THE COOKING SCHOOL The nutritive value of bouillon is, therefore, weak, as is also that of meat extracts, which are only bouiUon evaporated to dryness, or a semi- solid state, but their agreeable taste and stimu- lating eflfect render them useful adjuncts to the art of cooking. It is a very wrong idea, maintained by many people, and even by many physicians, that meat extracts contain the nourishment and food value of a large quantity of meat ; they do nothing of the Mnd, else albumen, fats, and other food sub- stances would be present in large proportions, and chemical analysis shows this to be far from the truth. Bouillon and solutions of meat ex- tract contain these substances in extremely small quantities, hence the nutritive value of bouillon is very slight, and that of meat extracts, or so-called condensed meat, is often still less. From what has been said it must not be hastily concluded that bouillon is of no use or value whatever. "While a healthy person finds in it only a very small portion of what he needs, to the invalid or convalescent, to whom the smallest quantity of nourishment that can be borne is a blessing, bouillon is one of the most useful forms to supply to a worn-out and impaired system a first food, agreeable, easy to digest, and one which possesses wonderful stimulating properties. This last property THE COMPO UND FOODS 2J cannot be emphasized too strongly. It ex- plains the marvellous effect produced by a quantity of bouillon taken after a march or pro- longed fast. The effect is undoubtedly a nerv- ous one. It is probable that the bouillon pro- duces a beneficent effect upon the stomach itselL Some physiologists claim that bouillon pos- sesses the power of stimulating the secretion of pepsin, the essential agent of digestion. This explains why bouillon has become so gen- erally and so justly apprecia,ted. LESSON III MEAT Meat proper includes the flesli (1) of cattle, wMch we call heef, and of calves, which, we call veal; (2) of swine, called pork; and (3) of sheep and of lambs, called mutton and lamh re- spectively. All of these meats, particularly beef and mut- ton, are in use at all seasons, though the two last named are in finest condition in the winter, while lamb and veal belong more especially to the spring and early summer months. We use as meat not only the actual muscular flesh, but also the fat, sinews, heart, stomach, and liver, the tongue and brains. Beef is the most nourishing meat. Next in order comes mutton. Meat that is dried or smoked is more nu- tritious than fresh meat, but corning draws out the juices. We have already pointed out that some kinds of meat are much more digestible than others. Pork, on the one hand, being fat, is indigestible, and the same is true of the tough, muscular tis- 22 MEAT 23 sue of such parts of an animal as the kidneys and the heart, while the finer-fibred flesh, such as tender beef or mutton, the breast of chicken and some varieties of game, will always be found more digestible. Naturally, those mus- cles which are used the most become the hard- est, or toughest, — ^but these are also the richest and juiciest as well. Meat should never be allowed to remain long in the paper in which it is wrapped, nor should it be placed in water, as much of the juice is lost in this way: it is better to wipe it with a clean, damp cloth if one wishes to cleanse it. It is important to remember in buying that it is not always economy to purchase the cheapest cuts, — one must take into consideration hov< much of the piece selected is edible meat, and how much bone or fat. The most economy lies in getting the best nourishment, bearing in mind that the less tender parts are .the more nutri- tious. Of course, in order that the meat be wholesome the animal must be healthy ,^and if the animal be well nourished, then the meat coming from it will be nutritious. Tender cuts are best for broiling and roast- ing. The cheap cuts should be selected for a stew, and should contain some of both fat and bone, for the sake of the better flavor and body that will result. Careful cooking will bring out 24 THE COOKING SCHOOL some of the nitrogenous elements from the bones, and the rich fat is by no means to be despised. In winter one appreciates the heat-giving qualities of fat, and it should at no season be thrown awa,y. This is especially true of beef fat. When used in bread or pastry as shorten- ing, or for frying, etc., or even for gre,asing pans, fat should be clarified. This is the simplest of processes, and consists of merely heating it with water, so that it is not burnt; the greasy odor passing off as the water evaporates; or with thin slices of raw potato, which absorb the organic matter in its passage from the fat. It is of prime importance to know how every variety and every part of meat should be cooked so as to prepare it to the greatest ad- vantage, and so as to retain as much as possible of the juice which is its life. Dry, intense 'heat causes the meat fibre to contract and become hardened; whereas a " slow fire " softens it. And while, by being heated, the albumen will only become the harder, we find that it will dissolve in cold water. Consequently, those meats that are of tough fibre should be cooked in water and with only a moderate degree of heat. The process of cooking meat in water gives MEAT 25 us: (a) the boiled meat, which retains all its juices; (b) a stew, in which the juices are mingled with the water, so that we eat this with the meat, or, (3) a soup or broth, in which the juice is all extracted and is used alone. • BOILING To boil meat, have a kettle large enough to permit the meat to be entirely covered by the water, and let the water come to a boil before the meat is placed in it. Then let it remain for from five to ten minutes, which will be long enough to harden the albumen, as explained above, and prevent the juices from running out. After this, keeping the kettle covered so that the steam cannot carry off the life and flavor of the meat, place it where it will be just below the boiling-point. Skim off the coating of al- bumen that rises to the surface. The meat will taste much better, and be all the tenderer, if one takes plenty of time for the boiling^ instead of keeping it for a shorter period over a hotter fire. After fl.fteen or twenty minutes, the actual cooking commences, the heat having by this time gone through and through the meat. Then let it cook slowly allowing twelve to fifteen minutes for each pound.' It will be found that enough of the juices 26 THE COOKING SCHOOL always escape from the meat into the water to make it answer the purpose of gravy. Sometimes the vessel containing the meat is placed in the oven instead of over the fire, which adds to its flavor. Or, flavor may be supplied either by season- ing the water itself, or by adding a stuffing. There are various ways of steaming meat. This may be done over boiling water, placing it, when it has in this way become quite tender, inside the oven, for the sake of the added flavor to be derived in this way. The familiar " pot roast," or smothered meat, is prepared by simply steaming it in its own juices. It is placed in the oven in a tight jar and left until the juice is partially drawn out, after' about an hour ; then cooked by greater heat, allowing half an hour to each pound of the meat. If the meat is cut into small pieces, the cooking will not require so long a time. The juice can be made into a thick, rich gravy. BEEF When good beef is first cut, the lean is firm so that no mark of the finger remains when one presses it; it is of purplish red, chan^ng to bright red, and becoming moist, after being ex- posed to the air. There should be plenty of fat ; if this is lack- MEAT 27 ing, it is a sign that the meat comes from an old or poorly fed specimen. When the beef-animal first comes into the hands of the butcher, it is split into halves, or " sides." Each half is then divided into fore- quarter and hind-quarter, the division being made just back of the ribs. The first six ribs, counting forward from the loin, are called the prime ribs. The first steaks cut on the small end of the loin are called short steaks, and have not much tenderloin : be- tween these and the point where the hip bone joins the. spine, come the porterhouse steaks, and between this joint and the thighbone the sirloin. This name, " Sir Loin," was given as a title indicative of superiority, in recognition of the tender and juicy nature of the meat that comes from that little-used muscle, or "cush- ion," found on the loin by the backbone. The tenderloin, another little-used muscle, soft, but without much flavor or juice, is found inside of the loin, under the " short ribs." The best cuts for broiling are steaks from the loin: short steaks, porterhouse, and sirloin. MtTTTON AND LAMB A large, heavy animal, two or three years old, makes the finest mutton; the flesh should be brtght red, with firm, white fat. Good South- 28 THE COOKING SCHOOl 1. FORE-QUAETER OF BEEF A, B, C, Back-half. D, E, F, G, H, I, J, Rattle-rand. A. First five ribs or prime ribs. Five-rib cut. Used for roasts and steaks. B. Five chuck ribs. Poorer roasts and steaks. C. Neck, used for beef tea, stews, boiling, etc. D. Sticking piece, used for corning. E. Shoulder, used for steaks, corning, etc. F. Shin, used for soups and soup stock. Q. First strip of rattle-rand, used for corning. H. Middle strip of rattle-rand, used for corning. I. Butt' end of brisket, used for corning. J. Navel end of brisket, used for corning. 2. HIND-QUARTER OF BEEF A, B, C, D, E, F, Round of Beef. G, H, I, Rump. J_ K, L, Sirloin. M, N, Flank. A. Shin. Suitable to be used for soups and stock. B. Lower or poorer part of the round, used for stews, etc. C. Upper and best part of the round, used for steak and beef tea. D. Lower or poorer part of vein, used for stews, chop- ping, braising. E. Upper and best part of vein, used for boiling, steak, beef tea, spiced beef, etc. F. Aitchbone, used for roast, stew, and stock. G. Face of rump, used for roast or steaks. H. Middle of, rump, used for steak. I. Back of rump, used for roasts or steaks. These steaks may be cut with the grain, or across the grain of the meat. J. First cut of sirloin, used for roast or steaks. It. con- tains tenderloin. K. Second cut of sirloin, used for roast or steaks; it con- tains tenderloin. L. Tip of sirloin, used for roast or short steaks. Contains no tenderloin. M. Thick end of fiank. Used for corning, rolling, boiling. N. Thin end of flank. Used for corning, rolling, boilidg. •mp?*' 1 — Pore-Quarter of Beef 2— Hind-Quarter of Beef ~MEAT 29 down mutton has always been considered the best. Mutton and lamb are generally quartered, as is done with beef. The fore-quarter is divided into head, neck, shoulder, breast, and rack; the hind-quarter into leg and loin. The loin is divided into chops. The hiud-leg and the flesh back of the hip-bone, together, are called leg of mutton. The shoulder, which is not expensive, has the fore-leg and sometimes two or more of the ribs left on for roasting. The finest of roasts, consisting of the whole upper back part of the sheep, is called saddle of mutton. The best cuts for broiling are the rib or loin chops. Spring lamb is so much smaller than mutton that it is sold and cooked only in halves and quarters ; the ' ' fore-quarter ' ' being considered the more choice. Our lamb chops do not come from spring lamb, but from small, thin mutton, or young sheep. Chops are of several varieties. The South- down chops are fully two inches in thickness, while the usual American chop is not more than half an inch thick. Loin and rack chops are prepared exactly as a broiled steak. When the loin chops are trimmed we call them French chops. The daintiest way; of serving these 3 30 THE COOKING SCHOOL French chops is in the form in which they are called mashed chops. When "the chops have been quickly broiled for five minutes, and while they are still warm, place on one side of each chop a little mound of nicely seasoned, boiled mashed potatoes, beaten until very light. Then dip the chop, with this addition, into beaten egg, cover it with bread crumbs, and dip for a couple of minutes into hot fat. A paper ' ' holder ' ' is put over the end of each chop bone, and the diops are laid on a platter with a mound of peas beneath; the dish includes really two vegetables, delicately served, besides the chops. Sheep's heads are prepared and served, two at a time, just in the manner of the single calf's head. The kidneys, liver, and heart, which are de- licious, and far less expensive, are also served as are those of the calf. / VEAL The best veal comes from a two-months-old calf. The meat is flesh-colored, and firm, with clear, white fat. One should never buy veal that is white and lean; it is not safe to eat young veal. It is divided almost as mutton is. The hind- quarter cuts are the finest. Chops and steak, MEAT 3f or pieces for roasts, come from the loin and the leg. Veal cutlets are slices cut from the leg, contaioing a round section of the leg-bone. The sweetbreads, sold in pairs, are a part of the digestive viscera, which accounts for their being so digestible. There are both " heart " and " throat " sweetbreads. The former is the short, firm one, preferable when4;o be served whole. The other is long, and full of mem- brane, but just as desirable if it be served creamed, or picked small. However prepared, it is necessary to wash and parboil, or boil, sweetbreads when they first come from the market, as they are in dan- ger of ' * spoiling ' ' quickly. It is then possible to keep them for a day or two in a cold spot. POBK Fresh pork is firm, and of a pale red color; the fat is white. Good, fat salt pork is white, or slightly pinkish. One is obliged to be very careful in selecting pork, as the speckled meat is often diseased. At best, pork is very diffi- cult to digest ; even inthe use of breakfast bacon care should be exercised. Pork for chops, or roasting, comes from the ribs and the loin. When salted and smoked, the hind-legs are called ham; the flank bacon. 32 THE COOKING SCHOOL Sausages are made of chopped trimmings, fat and lean, packed in cleaned intestines. POULTEY AND GAME The domestic fowls which we designate as poultry include chickens and tame turkeys, ducks, geese, and pigeons. Wild turkeys, ducks, and gteese, quail, partridges, and grouse, together with venison and other wild flesh, we call game. Chicken is always in season. Spring chick- ens used to come only after the first of May, but can now be had earlier, — thanks to the modern incubator. Capons are seasonable through the winter and early spring. Turkeys through the autumn and early spring. Ducks and geese from the first of Decem- ber to the first of April. Green geese and ducklings from the first of June until Sep- tember. Game is in season during the autumn and winter months, from about the first day of November (the exact date being regulated to some extent by the local game laws) until February. Cold storage game is,, of course, ob- tainable at other times of the year. Venison is best from September first to Jan- MEAT 33 uary; wild duck, geese, and partridges, from the same date until April. The most delicate meat of poultry comes from chickens, pigeons, and the guinea-fowl. The guinea-fowl may be bought at all seasons, but is best from the first of June to October. Owing to the short muscle-fibres the breast- meat of poultry is more tended, though less highly flavored, than the dark meat of the leg. Chicken of five months or less is called spring chicken. When over a year old it is called fowl; naturally the flavor of the full- grown chicken is finer than that of the very young. For roasting, a young cock is con- sidered the best. Of turkey, the hen is preferred, though fre- quently quite young gobblers are roasted. Ducks and geese should not be over a year old. The proper course with barnyard fowls is to keep them, for six days at least before they are killed, in a spacious, clean coop, feeding them corn for at least five days, and then soft-boiled rice or skimmed milk for the last day. For the last night they should have no food, but plenty of water. The result will be light, delicately flavored flesh, clean intestines, and an empty " crop." 34 THE CCXDKING SCHOOL KILLING A FOWL Open the mouth, of the fowl and cut it on the inside of the neck, severing the jugular vein with a sharp knife. It is important to hang up poultry at once by the feet so that the blood runs out freely, making the m^at whiter and more wholesome. Before it becomes cold, poultry should be care- fully picked, without breaking the skin any- where. Scalding chickens is a lazy way of get- ting rid of the feathers, is a very bad prac- tice, and renders the meat more likely to " spoil." Poultry should not be eaten until at least six or eight hours after killing, but should be picked and drawn promptly. SELECTING A FOWL Poultry should be full-grown, but not old. A chicken should be plump, but not so fat as to be heavy. The flesh ought to be firm, the end of the breastbone and the wing limber. The capon — ' ' spayed ' ' hen or castrated cock — combines the flavor of full-grown fowl with the delicacy and tenderness of a young " broiler." The meat is expensive and most delicious. MEAT 35 DBAWING The chicken or turkey, being already picked, is held over a little flame, taking care not to let the soot collect on its skin. Turn it, unfold its wings, etc., until the long, hairy feathers are thoroughly singed off. Then put it at once into a pan of cold water, wash, rinse, and wipe it. Now chop off the head, leaving as much as pos- sible of the neck. Next, run your knife along the side of the legs, cutting the skin ; bend the legs so as to expose the sinews on top, holding the upper part of the leg; loosen the ligaments, and pull them out with a strong fork or skewer. This is the process of removing the feet. Then the joint muscle should be cut so as to expose the under ligaments, which are next drawn out. Finally, cut the muscle at the back. There are seven sinews in all to be drawn out. Turn the fowl over so as to be able to cut to the bone along the back of its neck. Pulling the skin back carefully, so as not to break it or the crop, the crop can be removed by cutting the part that holds it to the intestines of the neck after it has been loosened. The next thing is to remove the intestines : to do this, turn the fowl again on its back and loosen the intestines at the back with your fingers, making first a cut at the end of the 36 THE COOKING SCHOOL breastbone. Loosen the lungs and heart at the cut made by the crop. Now remove, with care to keep them entire, the intestines and gizzard, taking them together through the opening at the breastbone. Take your knife again, and cut around the large intestine. Finally cut the oil-sack from the rump, and remove any blood- stains from the inside with a damp cloth. Stuffing, if desired, should be put in, and the vents sewn up before trussing. TKtrSSING The trussing ii? a very simple process, requir- ing only three stitches in all to secure the fowl from being " cooked out of shape." Krst, make an incision in the neck, close to the breast- bone, so that the skin can be turned back ; press the wings back over this skin, and secure them into shape with the first stitch. Holding the legs down close to the side, take the second stitch right through the fowl, bringing the needle back over the leg joints and tying on one side. Next, after working the skin skilfully over the end of the leg-bones, take the third stitch, fastening the legs to the rump by sewing' them against the side of the breastbone. The method of cleaning described above is applicable to evety variety of poultry. With Trussed Turkey for Baking Trussing on Back of Turkey MEAT 37 ducks and geese, tlie gullet may be removed at tlie lower vent after being loosened at tbe neck. The gizzard, tbe liver, and the heart are called giblets'. The blue skin must be stripped off in order to open tbe gizzard, then the fleshy part is removed on one side at a time. This is the only proper way to do, as there will be a very disagreeable taste if the gizzard is merely turned inside-out after being cut in two. TUEKBYS The choice hen turkey — always a young one, of course — should have a broad, plump breast, black legs, and white' skin. The neck should be short. Turkeys and capons are singed, drawn, and trussed after the manner prescribed for chickens. DUCKS Tame ducks should be penned as recom- mended for chickens, for at least ten days before being killed. In order to give them the best flavor, they should be fed for a week or so on finely chopped celery or other spiced food. In selecting a duck, see that it has a plump breast, without being over-fat. If the duck is young, the lower leg will be smooth, and the webbing of the feet soft. A good test is to see 38 THE COOKING SCHOOL if the under bill is soft; this should break readily when bent. Singe and clean as described above. Only two stitches are needed in trussing ; one to con- fine the legs close to the side, the other to fasten back the wings. Of wild ducks, the canvas-back is the fa- vorite. |The head feathers are smooth and short. The male has chestnut-colored head and neck, grayish sides and back, with black wings and tail, white underneath. In the fe- male the tints are duller, with fainter mark- ings. The head is short, with red iris, and very long, dark-greenish bill. Canvas-backs and red-heads are always sold with the feathers on. GEESE A goose should not be over three years old. "When young, the bill and webbing of the feet are as described in the case of young ducks; the legs are yellow and have soft dawn on them. Geese require to be cooked slowly, as they have much fat directly beneath the skin. PIGEONS AND SQUAB Young pigeons have very plump breasts. As they fly more th!an most of our domestic fowl, MEAT 39 the breast grows small, and the muscles hard with age. A full-grown pigeon, being rather tough, is best served " potted "; the moist, slow method of cooking softening the meat. Squab is young pigeon, and is a real delicacy. The intestines are removed after splitting down the back, and the breastbone is broken with a strong knife or heavy utensil. They should be baked in a very hot oven, or broiled as spring chicken, and served on toast after the manner of quail. Admirable for a conva- lescent. GUINEA-FOWL The excellence of guinea-fowl, when properly cooked, is something that should be more gen- erally recognized. Their eggs are also far better than hen's eggs. The flesh of the guinea-hen is all dark, and indeed in other respects these birds seem more like wild than domestic fowl. HANGING GAME All of the wild creatures included under the head " game," having red meat, should be hung for a week or ten days in a dry, cold place before being cooked. 40 THE COOKING SCHOOL It is better to " draw " fowls first, but the feathers may be left on while hanging, if pre- ferred. The meat of all varieties of game is easily digested by invalids, since these animals store the fat outside of the lean meat, and acquire fat much less rapidly than do the domestic va- rieties. VENISON The important point to remember ahoiit ven- ison is that it must be served and eaten im- mediately after cooking. If allowed to stand at all, the meat immediately becomes difficult to eat. Cooked in the chafing-dish, and eaten at once, it is very fine. Venison can bekeptin a cold place better than domestic meat, as it comes healthy and tender from the deer. , Venison is sometimes cured after the man- ner of curing mutton hams. BELGIAN HAEE AND SQUIEEEL Belgian hare is becoming more popular, es- pecially in the West, and is often eaten as " boned turkey," from tins. As its fur is val- uable, this is always removed before the a,ni- mal appears for sale in market. No animal is cleaner, and for the sake of the fur it is well MEAT 41 nourished, wMcli improves the flavor of its flesh as well. The meat is tender, white, and firm, and the broth made from it is said to be better for in- valids than almost any other. The meat is used in as many ways as is chicken, even to salad. The meat of ordinary rabbits and of squir- rels may also be cooked in the same variety of ways, remembering, however, that rabbit flesh must be cooked slowly and long, on account of its density, in order to render it digestible. LESSON IV FISH Althottgh the fish is an inhabitant of water and cannot live out of it, the amount of water in the flesh itself is only slightly higher than that of meat; one hundred pounds of fish with- out bone containing fi:'om 75 to 85 per cent, of water; whilst meat from a healthy land- animal contains about seventy-five to eighty. A few, especially oily fish, contain an extra 10 per cent, of fat, and that much less water. FISH ANALYSES SgOW: A White Fish (Flounder) A Very Oily Fish (Salmon) Water . Fat Salts . Nitrogenous matter 80.4 2.0 3.6 14.0 64.0 12.2 1.8 22.0 • 100.0 100.0 Fish, therefore, belongs to the class of nitrog- enous foods which build up and repair flesh and tissues, but, although having almost as much nitrogenous or proteid matter as meat, it FTSH 43 is not so nourishing, for a larger proportion of the proteids is in the form of gelatine, which is less valuable to the animal economy than is al- bumen, of which the nitrogenous part of meat is almost entirely composed.- Fish contains more phosphorus than meat; the active fish, like troijt and pickerel, having the greatest percentage. Fish is well adapted for persons whose physical labor is not considerable, and the con- stituents lacking can easily be supplied by an intelligent caterer, who would serve potatoes and cucumbers or lettuce with French dressing, to make up the deficiency of carbo-hydrates and fats. Fish with piak or dark flesh have fat dis- tributed through the whole body, and are in consequence more difficult of digestion, but they contain more nutriment, and better supply the needs of a strong, active man; such fish are salmon, sturgeon, catfish, and mackerel. Fish white of flesh, like the flounder and English sole, are most easy to digest and serve for invalids and persons of delicate organiza- tion. Stale fish and those kept in cold-storage are not wholesome, nor do they retain their flavor, and it is better to be satisfied with those in season. They have a plan abroad of catching 44 THE COOKING SCHOOL fish in nets 'and keeping them alive until sold, which is a most wholesome one. In Purchasing Fish choose only those in which the flesh is thick and firm, the scales bright and stiff, the eyes full and prominent. Cleaning Fish. — This is usually done by the fishmonger and varies according to the fish dealt with. The gills, liver, intestines, etc., are first removed; often some skin; then portions of the fins and sometimes the head. These cut- tings often equal the remaining flesh in weight and nutriment, and a clever cook will make from them a concentrated liquor which can be util- ized to enrich the fauces served with the cooked fish. French and English cooks have several excellent soups and stews made entirely from these cuttings. More bones can be removed without breaking the flesh than is commonly done, and much trouble saved the guest. METHODS OF COOKING FISH BOILING PISH This is rather wasteful, as so much of the nu- triment and juices of the fish is lost in the proc- ess ; never less than 5 per cent,, and as much as 30, going into the water in which the fish is boiled. To. reduce this loss to the minimum the fish should be placed in absolutely boiling water nSH 45 containing plenty of salt, which seasons and also keeps in the nutriment. The fish should be washed well in cold water, rubbed with salt, wrapped in a. cloth, and dropped into the boil- ing water; a slice of onion added and allowed to simmer gently for ten minutes to each pound weight; then carefully lifted out, drained, and the cloth removed. Boiled fish is garnished with parsley and slices of lemon, and served with boiled potatoes or potato-balls, lettuce with French dressing, or cucumbers, and either sauce Hollandaise, shrimp or oyster sauce, or plain drawn butter in a sauce-boat. From the cold boiled fish, left-over fish cut- lets, devilled fish, creamed fish, salad, or cro- quettes can be made. Steaming fish is far more economical than boiling. A simple steamer consists of a cylinder with perforated bottom whi(ii can take the place of the lid of a saucepam, when that is removed. The saucepan is kept supplied with boiling water until the fish placed in the upper compartment is cooked; about twenty minutes to the pound will usually suf- fice, or until the fish easily removes from, the bone. By this process far less of the nutriment is lost; G-arnish the same as boiled fish. Large fish are the ones usually boiled or steamed. 4 46 THE COOKING SCHOOL FBYING By frying is not meant the work in the ordi- nary household frying-pan, from which the most greasy, unpalatable, and indigestible dishes are turned out. Frying means immersion in oil or fat at a temperature of 360° Fahr. Well-clarifled beef-dripping is the best fat to use ; lard the worst, as it is easily absorbed and leaves the fish greasy; olive is the best oil, but various cocoanut products and several cotton- seed oils, are good. Small fish are the ones most often fried, but eutlets of larger fish are often used. The fish are washed and cleaned, washed again and wiped dry inside and out. Sufficient oil or fat must be put in the pan to completely immerse the fish. Brush the fish or portions with egg beaten without separating, and cover with bread crumbs made as fine as possible. Heat the oil, and before placing the fish in it test the temper- ature by throwing ia a crumb of bread; if it browns in half a minute the oil is hot enough, and it must not be heated until it smokes. Put the prepared fish into the wire frying- basket and place them in the oil, and when they are browned and the outside crisp, lift out and drain on blotting paper in a hotplace. FBH 47 Dish fried fish on a folded napkin and garnish with lemon and parsley. The egg-'and-crumb coating forms, as soon as it touches the hot oil, an impenetrable coating which keeps the oil out and the fish juices in ; the crumbs are made very fine so that little oil may be absorbed by them, and the fish does not become greasy. FILLETS Whitefish, rock or black bass, flounders, or the English sole give the best fillets. The fish is cleaned and scaled and the flesh removed froin the bone by drawing a sharp knife on each side' of the bone the length of the fish. The flesh is cut into strips an inch wide, the strips rolled over and fastened with a skewer. The fillets are now immersed in the hot oil as in frying, and in three or four minutes will be cooked. They are drained on blotting paper, and served on a napkin, garnished with parsley and lemon. PISH FBIOASSEE Take a pound of fish, out the cleaned fish into pieces about an inch and a half square and put in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and a chopped onion, and cook untU the onion is soft. Put in the fish, cover the saucepan and cook for ten minutes, and then pour over it a pint of 48 THE COOKING SCHc^L strained tomatoes; add a teaspoonful of salt, half that amount of pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, cook for five minutes more, and serve. This is good for yellow perch or black bass. For a pleasant change, salmon may be fricasseed in the following way. Put small pieces of salmon (about an inch square) into a pan with half a cupful of water, a little salt and white pepper, 1 clove, 1 bead of mace, 3 pieces of sugar, 1 shallot, and a heaping tea- spoonful of mustard, mixed with half a tea- cupful of vinegar. Let this boil up once and add six tomatoes peeled and cut into tiny pieces, a few sprigs of parsley, finely minced, and a wineglassful of sherry. Let all simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot, and garnish with toast cut in triangular pieces. BAKED FISH Open the fish at the gills and draw all the intestines through the opening; clean the in- side. Stuff the fish with a mixture of bread- crumbs, butter, and parsley, the beaten yolk of an egg with salt and pepper, and sew down the head firmly, or if pork is used, make gashes down to the bone two inches apart and fill these gashes with larding-pork; dust the fish thickly FISH 49 with bread crumbs, pour a little water and some butter over it and bake as you would a fowl, with frequent bastings for an hour or hour and a half. Lift out carefully with a long fish slice and garnish with slices of lemon and water- cress. Bluefish is usually served with tomato sauce, but an excellent sauce for most fish is made from the gravy in which the fish was baked; a large tablespoonful of catsup, a tablespoonful of brown flour moistened with water, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry or madeira. It is served in a sauceboat. This method serves for bluefish, shad, and all fish except carp, which is treated a little differently. Clean the carp as before; wash the flesh all over with vinegar; let it stand for fifteen or twenty minutes. Fill the fish with bread-stuff- ing and sew down the head, then brush the fish all over with egg.and cover it thickly with bread crumbs, and put over it a few lumps of butter. Place the fish in a granite pan with two chopped onions, a bunch of parsley, a cup of water, with a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, if you have it. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour with fre- quent basting. Lift carefully out when done, garnish with parsley and lemon. For sauce, use the liquor from the baking-pan, and to it 50 THE COOKING SCHOOL ' I ■■ I add a tablespoonful of butter and one of flpiii" well rubbed together; make up to half a pint with boiling water, turn the whole back into the pan, cook for a moment and strain; add the juice of a lemon, season with salt and pepper, and serve in a sauceboat. For establishments having an open fire the plan of roasting produces a dish which shows the fish at its best. The fish after cleaning is put in a shallow pan which fits in a Dutch or American oven, is lightly spread 'with butter, roasted in front of a clear fire, and basted with its own juices. The whole flavor of the fish is retained, and the action of the fire browns the surface and gives the appetizing flavor known as ' ' tasting of the fire. ' ' BROILING FISH The fish is scaled, split down the back, washed, dried, and dusted with salt and pepper. The middle thin portion is folded over to give an even thickness, and the fish placed on a wire broiler. Butter is brushed on the flesh side, and it is held near a perfectly clear fire until nicely browned, then turned and browned on the skin side. Then for twenty minutes it is slowly broiled on the flesh side at a distance of six or eight inches from the fire, raised on a couple of bricks or a broiler-stand, and afterwards on the FISH SI skin side for ten minutes ; care being taken not to burn it. The fish is finally basted with butter and should be served at once. To broil on a gas stove, prepare the fish as above and put under the flames an iron bak- ing-pan, and when it is very hot grease lightly with butter. Put the fish in skin side down, baste with butter, dust lightly with salt and pepper and put it under the flame in the broil- ing oven on the very bottom of the stove, turn the lights down as low as possible, and broil slowly for half an hour. Lift out carefully, spread butter over it, sprinkle with a little lemon juice, serve quickly. For broiling with an oil stove the oven must first be made very hot, the fish prepared in the same way, and a long baking-pan put over a strong flame. When the pan is hot, put in a little butter, and place the fish skin side down, afterward baste with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put it into the oven near the top and cook for half an hour, basting with melted butter once or twice ; serve when brown. If a narrow, heavy iron pan or a narrow, long asbestos mat be placed on the lower shelf over the flame, the heat will be driven round the sid.es to the top of the oven, and reflected from the top on the fish, which will then brown on the upper side. 52 THE COOKING SCHOOL PLANKED FISH The fish is cooked on a hard wood plaiik, oak, hickory, or ash, about an inch thick, to fit the oven like a shelf, and rather wider than the fish. Shad is most often planked, though any white-fleshed fish is good cooked in this way. To plank with a gas stove, the plank is well rubbed with salt and made thoroughly hot. The fish is split ^wn the back, washed, wiped dry, basted with butter, and dusted with salt and pepper. It is put on the plank skin side down, and placed under the gas stove as far away from the flames as possible. The lights are turned rather high until the flsh has a good color, when they are turned down and the cooking continued slowly for thirty minutes ; garnish with parsley and lemon, and serve on the plank. The fish is often surrounded by mashed po- tatoes pressed through a forcing bag and after- wards browned in the oven. To plank in an oil stove, makfe the stove very hot, put in the plank with the side on which you will plank the fish turned down. After the plank is hot proceed as with a gas stove, except that the heat is kept full; the fish is near the FISH 53 top on the upper grate, and an asbestos mat is put on the lower grate to drive the heat around and on top of the board as in broiling. Plank in a coal stove the same way, but be sure that the plank is hot before placing the fish on it, and cook as near the top of the oven as possible. Fish is very fine planked before a wood fire. The board is made hot, the fish prepared as be- fore ; attached with two nails driven through the head and one through the tail, then reared up in front of a good clear, strong wood fire, basted occasionally with melted butter and cooked for at least half an hour until the fish is a nice dark brown. DEVILLED FISH For' this the left-over cold, boiled fish may be used, or a pound of fish boiled on purpose. It is separated into good-sized fiakes, and the following ingredients then prepared. A table- spoonful of butter is rubbed into the same amount of flour; half a pint of milk is added and stirred on the stove until boiling; 3 hard-boiled eggs are chopped very fine with a tablespoonf ul of parsley, salt, and pepper ; the fish is carefully mixed in. Fill small oyster or clam shells with the mixture and, when cool, cover the top of each with beaten egg, dust with 54 THE COOKING SCHOOL bread crumbs, carefully filling in the edges be- tween the shells and the mixture. When it is time to serve put them, a few at a time, into the frying basket and immerse in hot fat. Serve with cucumber sauce or sauce tartare, or plain. SMOKED AND CUEBD FISH Prepare a curing mixture of one pint of Liverpool salt, a pint of best brown sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre mixed well together. Scale and wash 20 poumds of fish, and wipe them perfectly dry, not allowing them to re- main in water for an instant. Eub the fish thoroughly inside and out with the mixture, and place them on top of one another on an ab- solutely clean board, and above put another board with a weight of at least ten pounds. Leave them in a cold place for sixty hours; drain, wipe each dry; stretch open and fasten with small crossed sticks. Put in the smoking- house for five days, or instead of a smoking- house take a barrel with the ends knocked out, make a smothered fire in the bottom with a few chips of hard wood. Lay the fish on sticks across the top when the fire is lighted, throw a cover over the open end, and allow the fish to smoke. Whitefish, shad, mackerel, and roe-herring are all cured in this way. FISH 55 SALTED FISH Salmon, shad, mackerel, or whitefish are the best adapted for salting. The fish are cleaned and scaled, washed and wiped quickly; fhen put in a perfectly clean sack, covered with cold brine, strong enough to float an egg; a small board placed on the top with a weight will keep the fish under the brine. AMBBICAN FISH The cod is perhaps the most common and most useful fish consumed in America. It is caught in enormous quantities in the cold waters of the Labrador current along the northern coasts. It is an excellent-tasting fish, fries well in slices or fillets, baked or broiled. The tongue and sounds are used as special 'dishes. Isinglass is made from the swim- ming bladders, and cod-liver oil from the liver. Cod is in season all the year round, but best in winter. Haddock is very similar to cod, but not so useful, as it has such a large head, whiph is entirely waste. Like cod it is a winter fish. The halibut, closely allied to the European turbot, is about the largest fish brought to the market, and is cut into slices and sold at about twenty-five cents a pound, and being solid flesh, 56 THE COOKING SCHOOL with little waste, is economical. Young halibut, weighing about twelve pounds, are sold whole as " chicken halibut." Halibut is in season aU the year, but finest during winter. Salmon is one of the best of all fish; it is a strong, rich food with a flavor entirely its own, though this flavor is only properly known in places where the fish is caught, for in sixteen or twenty hours after death, the delicate oil, to which the flavor is due, begins to decompose, and the fish, though still fine, is not the same. Salmon is usually boiled whole or in slices, or may be sliced and broiled; or planked and served with sauce HoUandaise is the premier dinner dish. Salmon being caught in so many places at different times of the year can be ob- tained at all times, but in the East it is finest from March to June, when caught in Maine and Canada, whilst in the West salmon is best from October to March. The flounder, the American counterpart of the English sole, is an excellent baking fish, but not so delicate as the sole. It is good fried in fillets or dished au gratin. Flounders are best in May. The shad is a very popular fish, which is largely planked, but very good broiled ; it should not be fried, as it already contains too much oil. Shad is in season from February until the middle of June. FISH 57 Bluefish is almost always baked, and makes a fine dish. It is in season from April to the middle of November. : Sheep's-head, weakfish, sea bass, and porgies are all excellent fish for planking, broiling, or boiling, and are in season from March to Oc- tober, but best about May. The tvhitefish from the Great Lakes are excel- lent all-round fish when fresh from the water. Planked they are better than shad. They also come in about March and go out early in No- vember. In Southern waters are found the red snap- per, Spanish mackerel, king-fish, mullet, and pompano, the latter called the king of all fish, and when properly boiled it tastes like a young chicken: it is finest in May; the snapper is also fine boiling fish, and good from April to Oc- tober; the kihg-fish is excellent in any style. The Spanish mackerel is at its prime in Sep- tember. , Brook-trout open on April 1st, and reach their finest condition in May. Fish like herring and porgies, full of bones, are usually rolled in bread crumbs and fried. Boneless salted herring' makes a good appetiser for beginning a lunch. Fish without scales, eels and catfish, are not wholesome unless taken from very clear water. 58 THE COOKING SCHOOL They are skinned, dipped in egg and bread erumbs, and fried. The sturgeon is the largest fresh-water fish and is very nourishing indeed, though rather harder of digestion than most other fish. In general, cod, haddock, and halibut are winter fish, and finest in that season, whilst all others are summer fish and arrive at their best before September. Many summer fish are, however, sent up dur- ing winter in refrigerator cars, and though not in the finest condition, are quite edible. Crustaceans and Molluscs. — Lobster, prawns, and crayfish are the chief American crusta- ceans found on our tables, but, though very pop- ular, they are very difficult of digestion through the character of the fleshJ They must be fresh and alive when cooked. If they die before cook- ing they are most dangerous. They are in season during summer, arid should be avoided after September. Soft-shell crabs are the ordi- nary crab caught as it is shedding its shell, and no crustacean is in a healthy state at this period, but the palates of many people have been trained to like the flavor, and they are in great demand. The molluscs, of which oysters and clams are most consumed, come also under the head of FISH 59 dangerous foods, as they are perhaps as un- clean as any animal food and are frequently fattened in most questionable places. Never- theless, so far does taste overcome hygiene that they are eaten alive, intestines and all. Many cases of typhoid have been directly traced to the eating of raw oysters. When cooked the germs are killed and the risk of transmitted disease avoided. BBOILED PISH Prepare an oily fish, like shad, mackerel, herring, bluefish, salmon, or butterfish, since they do not become dry when broiled. Eemove the head and tail from a small fish and split it down the back. If a thick fish is used, cut it across the bone into inch slices, and remove the bone. A whitefish must be rubbed with butter, because its flesh is dry. Grease a wire broiler, lay in the fish, hold the thickest side next a clear fire and brown the flesh side first, raising it a little occasionally, so that it may not burn. Turn it, and cook the skin until crisp. Keep turning it, until the flesh is firm. Slip it on a hot platter, with the skin side down, and season with salt, pepper, and a little lemon-juice, if liked. Sliced lemon or pickles are usually served with fish. ' 60 THE COOKING SCHOOL BAKED FISH A fish weighing from 3 to 6 or 8 pounds may be baked, or stuffed and baked. Wipe the fish, cut off the head and side-fins. Fill with stuff- ing, sew together, and cut gashes two inches apart in the sides. Place the fish upright ih a roastiag-pan, skeweriag or tying it into the shape of an S. Put bits of butter or dripping, or thin slices of fat, salt pork in the gashes, under the fish, and in the pan. Dredge the fish with flour, and bake in a hot oven. When the flour is brown, baste with the fat, and continue to baste once in ten minutes. Cook until the flfesh is firm, and, on being touched, separates easily from the bone. Remove from the oven, take out the skewers or strings, lay the fish on a hot platter, and serve with fish sauce or tomato sauce. In serving a fish cut the flesh into neat pieces, two> inches wide, lift it from the bone, and place it on the plate. Do not cut through the large bone. STtTFPING FOE A BAKED FISH 1 cup fine bread or cracker crumbs; 1 tea- spoonful chopped onion, scalded; % teaspoon- ful salt; 1/4 teaspoonful pepper; 1 teaspoonful lemon juice; i/4 cup melted butter; milk or water to moisten. ^ FISH 61 Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Use enough liquid to make th6 stufl&ng stick together. If a dry stuffing is preferred, omit the milk or water. Dry stuffing is sometimes spread over a slice of fish beforfe it is baked. The above quantities are sufficient for a fish weighing from 4 to 6 pounds. FISH SAUCE 2 cups water, milk, or fish-stock ; 4 tablespoon- f uls butter ; 2 tablespoonfuls flour ; % teaspoon- f ul pepper ; % teaspoonf ul salt. Put 2 tablespoonfuls butter in a saucepan, and cook the flour in it. Add the boiling liquid, the remainder of the butter in small pieces, and the salt and pepper. Boil fi!ve minutes and serve. This is sometimes called drawn butter sauce. EGG SAUCE Chop 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, and stir into the fish sauce. BOILED FISH Lay a slice of fish on a plate, place the plate, in the centre of a square of clean cloth, and tie the four corners loosely together. Place it on a stand in a kettle of boiling salted water, and let the water simmer. Allow twenty minutes to each pound. Lift it out, untie the cloth, and if the flesh is firm and separates easily from the a. THE C CX)K1NG 'SCHOOL bone, it is done. If not done, simmer longer, and examine it once in ten minutes. Serve with egg sauce, fish or tomato sauce. CBEAMED FISH 1 cup cold, baked or boiled, fried or broiled fish; 1 cup white sauce; 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs. Remove the bones, skin, and brown crust from the fish. Flake the fish, mix it with the hot white sauce, pour into a buttered dish, sprinkle the crumbs over the top, and brown. If liked, y^ teaspoonful onion may be cooked in the white sauce, and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley may be added to it before mixing it with the fish. SALT FISH-BALLS 2 medium-sized potatoes; Vg cup shredded codfish; 1 even teaspoonful butter, melted; % Q^^, or 4 teaspoonf uls beaten Q^'g ; sprinkle pep- per ; fat for frying. Pare, quarter, and boil the potatoes. Meas- ure the fish, which contains no bones, and is cut fine and packed in salt. Soak the fish in cold water ten minutes to draw out the salt, and press it well in a fine strainer to make it dry. When the potatoes are -soft, add the fish and shake them over the fire to dry them. Mash, add the seasoning, butter, and beaten egg. Mash all FKH 63 together, shape on a tablespoon, or roll into round cakes, fry in deep, hot fat, drain on clean brown paper and serve hot, arranged neatly on a hot platter. In place of the Vs cup shredded fish, % cup ordinary salt fish may be used. Wash it, remove the bones, cut into small pieces, and cook with the potatoes. The great advan- tage of the shredded fish is that it does not need to be cooked, and so does not cause any odor of fish in the house. Cold, cooked fish, with the bones removed, and separated into fine flakes, may be used instead of the salt fish. / FISH CHOWDEK 1 pound cod or haddock; 1 even tablespoonful dripping; 1 small onion; % teaspoonful salt; sprinkling of pepper ; 2 potatoes ; 1 tablespoon- ful butter; 1 tablespoonful flour; 1 cup milk; 2 crackers. Put the fish-head, bones, fins, and skin into 1 cup cold water, and simmer to extract the nutri- ment. Brown the onion in the dripping. Pare and slice the potatoes, and parboil five minutes to remove the bitter juice. Strain the water from the fish-bones, add it to the potatoes, scrape in the browned onion, and add the salt and pepper. When boiling, add the fish, cut in inch pieces, and simmer from ten to twenty minutes, until the potatoes and fish are done. Cook the butter, 64 THE COOKING SCHOOL flour, and milk together to make a white sauce, add to the chowder, boil up once, add the crackers broken in quarters, and serve in a hot dish. OYSTERS TO PKEPABB OYSTEES FOB COOKING Take up each oyster separately in the fingers and remove all bits of shell or seaweed. Strain the liquid through a fine strainer, so that it may be used if desired. PANNED OYSTEBS 25 oysters; 1 tablespoonful butter; l^ tea- spoonful salt; sprinkling of pepper. Put the oysters in a saucepan without any water. Shake them over a moderate fire until, they look plump and the edges are curled. Add the butter, salt, and pepper, and stir the season- ing in well. Serve in a hot dish. If liked, they may be served on slices of toast, or with crou- tons in the dish. CBEAMED OYSTEBS 25 oysters; 1 cup white sauce. Pick over the oysters and cook them va. a saucepan, as directed for panned oysters. Drain them in a strainer ; make the white sauce, FISH 65 and stir the oysters into the hot sauce. They may be served on toast, or bread crumbs, browned in butter, may be sprinkled over them. % teaspoon celery salt, and a sprinkle of cay- enne pepper, or 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, may be added to the sauce if desired. OYSTBB STEW 25 oysters; 1 cup milk; 1 tablespoonful but- ter; 1 tablespoonful flour; 3 allspice; % tea- spoonf al salt ; 14 teaspoonful pepper. Pick over the oysters, strain the liquor, and put it on to boil. Cook the butter and flour to- / gether, and add the liquid gradually to make a smooth sauce. Add the milk and, the season- ing, and when it comes to a boil, add the oysters and cook slowly, not allowing them to boil, until they are plump and the edges are curled. SCALLOPED OYSTEBS 25 oysters; 1 cup cracker or bread crumbs; V3 cup butter, melted ; salt and pepper. Prepare the oystera. Mix the butter and crumbs. Butter a baking-dish and sprinkle part of the crumbs in it. Spread in a layer of oysters and sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them. Then put in another layer of crumbs, then oysters and seasoning, and finish with a layer of crimibs on the top. Pour in 2 66 THE COOKING SCHOOL or 3 tablespoonfuls, or more if liked, of the oyster liquor, or milk, to moisten the crumbs. Bake in a hot oven about 20 minutes, until the crumbs are brown. If dried crumbs are used, 1 cup or more of liquid may be needed. FRIED OYSTERS Pick over the oysters, drain them in a strainer, lay them on a clean cloth, :f!old the cloth over them, and pat them gently to dry them. Shake salt and pepper over them. Beat an egg and stir into it 1 tablesi!)oonful cold water or milk. Sprinkle some fine crumbs with salt and pepper and lay them in a shallow dish. Dip the oysters in the crumbs, then in the beaten egg, and again in the crumbs, covering them all over each time. Fry them in deep, hot fat, drain on brown paper, and serve hot on a hot dish. BROILED OYSTERS Prepare the oysters, butter a wire broiler, lay in the oysters, hold them over a clear fire, and turn them every ten seconds until they look plump and curled up 'at the edges. Butter, and serve hot on a hot dish. LESSON V MILK Pbaotioally, in speaking of railk, we have in mind cow's milk. But it must be remembered that in some countries the milk of other animals is used as food; as that of goats, of asses, and of mares. The latter is used in the preparation of fermented milk, known as Komniss, which is properly a medicine rather than a food. We have already considered milk as to its es- sential constituents, caseine, butter, sugar of milk, and salts. There are a few other proper- ties which it is useful to know about. Milk is an article of food which changes with remarkable facility. Even when handled with the greatest care, it carries in it germs from the air which cause it to imdergo quickly a re- markable modification. Under the action of the ferment of sour milk it becomes more and more acid because a part of the sugar of milk is transformed by this germ into lactic acid. When the quantity of acid has reached a cer- tain limit, this acid coagulates the caseine and causes the cheese of the milk to pass from a 67 68 THE COOKING SCHOOL liquid state to that of solid particles. We say then that the milk is curdled or sour. This acid fermentation is more common at the ordinary temperature than when near the freezing point. That is why milk curdles more easily in summer than in winter. This accidental souring of the milk is retarded by scalding the milk, for the heat kills the germ. But sometimes the effort to save the milk may only hasten the process when the quantity of acid formed is not sufficient tp sour the milk when cold, but is sufficient to co- agulate it when heated. We can understand from this that in the art of cooking, milk does not go well with an acid, or an acid food, especially if heated. Milk passes through another sort of coagu- lation: that which occurs shortly after its pas- sage into the stomach. The gastric juices of the stomach secrete an acid which is very likely to coagulate the milk. This is a perfectly natural phenomenon, and we are not justilSed in regarding such changes as accidents, or an indication of disordered digestion. For the first duty of a healthy stoma;ch is to turn the milk which it receives. That is also why cheese- makers use the " rennet," which is the fourth stomach of calves, to coagulate the milk to make cheese. The rapid change which milk undergoes, and MILK 69 the danger which it may present as a means of communicating certain affections, such as tu- berculosis, should invariably be met by sterili- zation. Much might be said upon this point, but, as the only means of sterilization that is practical in the kitchen is boiling, we will con- fine our attention to that form. This method of sterilization is very effective, provided that the process of boiling is continued for several minutes. When the milk rises for the first time, the phenomenon is not due to boiling, but to the escape of gas, for the milk has not yet reached the boiling point, and the dangerous germs are not yet killed. It is then necessary to remove it from the fire and stir it, and then to replace it as soon as the foaming has subsided. It will be found that after rising several times it will set- tle down to a steady and quiet boiling. There is 88 per cent, of water in good milk. Yet it is a complete and perfect food for the new-born, provided that such receive the milk of its own species. The milk of the cow is three times as rich in albumen as the human milk. Hence we see the advisability of diluting cow's milk when fed to very young children. The mUk of the dog is over five times as rich in al- bumen as the human milk, and that of the hare, seven times. These great differences explain the enormously rapid increase in weight of the 70 THE C(X>KING SCHOOL young in their first days. Thus a child doubles its weight in 180 days ; a calf in 47 ; a pup in 9 ; and a young hare in 6 days. A great inconvenience of an absolute mUk diet for an adult is the very large quantity of several quarts which would be needed. This would not become repugnant, but would fatigue the digestive tube; but even if such diet could be borne it would be found that the subject would soon become pallid, weak, and sickly. Just why is not known, but it is evident that while it is a perfect food for the young, milk is unfit for the adult. Among the materials which it lacks must be mentioned iron. It is one of the weakest foods in this respect that are known. The new-born is adapted for this state of things, for he brings with him from the mo- ment of his birth a supply of iron which he uses little by little during his period of nursing. Physicians are agreed that children which nurse for fifteen or eighteen months or two years, as is the custom in Eussia and in Southern Europe, are unhealthy, flabby, anaemic, and are long in walMng. In spite of these inconveniences milk is an im- portant factor in our nourishment, since it sup- plies what would otherwise be deficiencies by its addition to other foods. The digestibility of milk is in general very MILK 71 good. When a quart of milk was taken it was found that all of the sugar of milk was absorbed, and only 6 per cent, of the albumen and 4 per cent, of the butter escaped. BUTTER The rapidity with which milk undergoes a change caused man, very early in history, to ex- tract from it the nutritious matters which it con- tains, and which are capable of being kept for a much longer time. Butter is frequently adulterated with other fats, and especially by oleomargarine. The de- tection of these adulterations is often very dif- ficult. One of the surest methods is to know whence or from whom the butter is pro- cured. Butter that is badly washed becomes acid and rancid. Such butter is kept only by being heavily salted, which renders it unfit for table use. Its last resource is for cooking pur- poses. But it must be remembered that much food is spoiled by cooking with over-salted, butter. The cheaper grades of butter contain a very high percentage of water, and are not at all economical; for it hardly pays to buy water, even at the price of cheap butter. 71 THE COOKING SCHOOL CHEESE Human ingenuity has addressed itself with rare success to the preparation of the different varieties of cheese known to the modern gour- met, and with which the palate, jaded by a long course of delicate viands, is again sharpened for that final taste which lends completeness to the feast. Of the varieties of cheese there is practi- cally no end; each nation having more or less distinguished itself m this line of manufacture and perfected some specific brand for which a universal demand seems to have arisen. To refer to first principles : Cheese is generally obtained by coagulating milk with rennet, and the curds which result contain the greater part of the butter. The mass is then treated in a variety of ways ; salted or spiced, and more or less compressed. In those ways cheeses of different sorts are ob- tained. From a nutritious point of view cheese may be classed as follows : 1. Cream, or very fat cheese, which is made from cream and rich milk, contains more butter than caseine. Gervais cheese is an example. 2. Fat cheese. This is made from rich milk and contains very little more butter than caseine. Brie and Camembert are examples. 3. Semi-fat cheese. This is made from MILK 73 partly skimined milk and fresh milk mixed. It contains much less butter than caseine. Dutch cheese is an example. 4. Thin cheese. This is made from skimmed milk and is very poor in fats. The digestibility of cheese is very good. When it is taken in moderation it is considered to aid the digestion of other foods. On ac- count of its richness in albumen it is of the highest class of foods. The varieties of cheese one has the choice of nowadays are so diversified and extensive- that a description of the leading kinds becomes a necessary feature of any volume dealing with the question of eating. The public taste in re- gard to cheese differs so widely that it would scarcely be safe to mention any particular make as being the favorite. To one Brie, to another Gorgonzola, to another Oamembert, are wel- come, whilst another will prefer Stilton, Neuf- diatel, Gruyere, or Eoquefort. Each of these famous makes has its especial flavor and hold upon the public palate, and whilst the product of various countries, under modem systems of dairying can be made in any country, although as yet the sophistry of modem commerce has not succeeded in divert- ing much of the manufacture of favorite kinds from the original seats of the industry. 74 THE COOKING SCHOOL The making of good cheese depends upon good milk, which gets us back to the breed of cattle most suitable for the purposes of a dairy farm. It is a proven fact that the breed of a cow has more to do with the quality of the cheese than the food taken, although rich pas- tures are essential to the production of the highest grade of cheese. Much advantage in the quality of the mUk, and consequently that of the cheese, is gained from the possession of rich pasturages for the stock, These pasturages should be devoid of flowers, particularly garlic, whilst the dairy must be constructed with the object of providing perfect ventilation, the maintenance of an even temperature, and the exclusion of every possible means of conveying a taint to the milk. A great deal depends upon the first part of the process of manufacture in the dairy-^-that of the coagulation of the milk. Curd is pro- duced in accordance with the variety of the cheese required. In the case of soft cheese th^ formation of the curd is prolonged, sometimes for a considerable time, whilst in the production of pressed cheese only a short time ela-pses. The time occupied in coagulation is determined by the quality of the milk, the condition when the rennet is added, temperature, and the strength and quantitjr of the rennet used. Ae- MILK 75 cording to theoretical calculation the time of coagulation is in inverse ratio to the quantity of rennet employed; yet, in practice, this is not entirely borne out, although its truth is more or less obvious. Among the popular kinds of soft cheese made in France, Brie has probably the largest num- ber of patrons in this country. In France con- sumers of Brie prefer it in an advanced stage of ripeness, in consequence of which the blue cheese is taken to an underground cave, where it becomes so soft and creamy that it runs, upon the breaking of the crust, and in this condition fetches considerably more than 'the twenty-five cents per pound paid for it, on the average, in Paris. The Brie is a large, flat, round cheese, a little less than an inch in thickness, and aver- aging ten inches in diameter. Brie is never considered thoroughly ripe until the white, solid curd has become yellow and creamy. The ripening process commences from the«outside. Oamembert is another of the French cheeses wMoli haye become popular in all dvilized coTtn- tries. It is chiefly made in the county of Cal- vados. Oamembert was invented during the revolution of 1791, by the ancestress of a late manufacturer of Calvados. Gorgonzola is an Italian product, and it is made from the ordinary cow's milk in northern 76 THE COOKING SCHOOL Italy, particularly Lombardy. The milk, as a rule, is produced by small owners of cows who manufacture the cheese, and do riot perfect or ripen it, but dispose of it to merchants who finish the process in caves of their own. Gdrgonzola is produced from two curds, or, more properly speaking, from two lots of curd made at different times. The large quantity of inferior Gorgonzola found upon the market is due to the quality of the rennet used in Italy, it being scarcely anything but the actual macer- ated stomach of the calf. The curd, when fit for cutting or breaking, is gently manipulated with a paumarilo. The mould-running process is an important one in connection with the finest varieties of cheese. In the part of France where Roque- fort cheese is made from the ewe's milk, much pains is taken to get this properly moulded. A kind of bread is prepared, which is crumbled, and upon which mould is induced to grow, as it will readily do when exposed to a rather warm, humid atmosphere. These mouldy crumbs are mixed with the curd, and in that way amalga- mate with the cheese. There is quite a system of turning the Gorgonzola cheese in the mould, and, of changing the cloth upon it. The cheese is sold in its green condition in Lombardy, and when taken out of the mould is ready for the MILK 77 Balting-room, where it stays until covered with a fine growth of white fungus, which shows that it is ready for the salting. This process con- tinues daily until it has been done upwards of a dozen times. The texture of the cheese is then examined. ^ If f oxmd too close, there is a probability that the blue mould will not grow freely. The cheese is then pierced with metal skewers to admit the air, particularly the oxygen, which is much needed by the fungi. The best Gorgonzola is seldom seen in this country. The process of ripening it is con- ducted in caves specially designed for the pur- pose. In these caves the cheese is placed upon shelves and covered with rye-straw. The tem- perature is also regulated. The slower process of ripening produces the finest cheese. The ripening process takes about five months, dur- ing which the crust becomes covered with dif- ferent varieties of fungi. The leading blue-moulded cheese of England is the Stilton. The process of its manufacture varies little from that of Gorgonzola in Italy, or Roquefort in France. The Wensleydale and Cotherstone are perfect varieties of Stilton, and can scarcely be equalled for mildness and mel- lowness by the choicest Gorgonzola. Leicester- shire, owing to its pasture, cattle and climate, is 78 THE COOKING SCHOOL supposed to be the most favored spot for tlie production of fine Stilton. Stilton cheese was formerly a most expensive article, but of late years so many have entered into the man- ufacture of it that the price has been much reduced, Parmesan cheese is another expensive variety of the article, manufactured extensively iii Emilia and Parma. There are also the Bon- don,. Gervais, Coulommiers, Pont I'Eveque, Neufchatel, and Port du Salut hailing from France. Port du Salut cheese is not unlike a variety known as Caerphilly. In form it is circular, flat, being an inch in thickness, and it is par- tially pressed. The pd,te of the cheese is de- liciously mellow, yet firm and tasty, the flavor being somewhat dependent upon the number of holes in the cheese. Port du Salut is a grow- ing favorite with connoisseurs both in this country and abroad. Pont I'Eveque cheese is a product of one of the leading dairy departments of France. Its name is derived from a village in the vicinity of Havre, and it is much in demand at Trouville, and Deauville, the famous French watering places. The process of manufacturing Pont I'Eveque is an elaborate one. Gervais cheese is another delectaUe morsel MILK 79 for the epicurean. Grervais is a mixture of cream and milk; V3 of the former to Va of the latter. Coagulation is often delayed for twenty-four hours. After the whey has been removed by the curd, the firm curd is laid in a cloth, which is placed in a slatted wooden frame, from six to nine inches in depth. A heavy wooden block is then placed upon it. Bondon cheese is produced chiefly in the rural districts around Eouen. It is made en- tirely from milk, about seven or eight cheeses being made from a gallon of milk. Coulommiers cheese is made in the Brie dis- trict. It is one of the favorites of the fre- quenters of Parisian cafes. In addition to the Stilton cheese, for which English makers are fanled, there are many other varieties of cheese manufactured in Eng- land. The Cheddar cheese is a product of Somersetshire; Cheshire cheese bespeaks its origin. It is a rich, cream-colored variety. Leicester cheese is of a reddish color with a slightly bitter taste, added to a very rich and mellow flavor. Derby cheese is white, Wilton is pink, and Gloucester of the same hue. Ched- dar cheese is another red-hued cheese, the result of the use of coloring, undoubtedly. Next to Cheddar come the two Dutch varie- ties, Edam and Gouda, the former round, the 20 THE COOKING SCHOOL l&tter flat, and neither of which, in the way of quality, has any room for boasting. , . The Swiss cheese is made from goat's milk; and for this there is always a large market, both in Europe and America. Limburger is a cheese which is approached with fear and trembling by people unac- quainted with it. It is claimed that this almost putrid German product is quite healthy, and that the prejudice against it is based upon ig- norance. The manufacture of che<^se in the United States is an important industry. Not alone is there an excellent domestic product made in most States, which is palpably American, but there are few varieties of foreign cheese which are not produced in American factories to meet the demand of price. Gruyere is imitated in Wisconsin, and Schweitzerkase is made in many States. Attempts to imitate the French Eoque- fort and English Stilton have not, been very successful, although a certain factory in Maine did at one time produce a fine grade of Stil^ ton. As Parmesan takes three years in the curing, an attempt to make it here is not to be expected. Limburger made in this country is considerably inferior to that brought from the Netherlands. Schabdeiger is also imitated here, as well as im- imx. 81 ported. Brie and D 'Isigiiy are imitated in New York and Pennsylvania. Daiaty little Camem- berts, soft and white, with blue pencilling, and sometimes reddish on the outside, are made here also. The much plainer form of curd fresh-made, and sold cheaply in nearly all our markets in little cylinders wrapped in tinfoil, under the name of Neufchatel, has been made in large and increasing quantities for fifteen years or more in New York and Pennsylvania. The same localities place in the market a soft, fresh curd, very much, enriched, which is called cream cheese. This does not exhaust the list of varieties of cheese found in all good markets in this country. The standard American Fac- tory, or Cheddar, cheese also appears in many more or les^ disguised fancy forms. The Canadian and American " Club-house " cheese, " Meadow Sweet," " Saratoga," and " Deli- catesse," sold in one- and two-pound jars, and in smaller packages, neatly prepared, are merely good selections of common factory- make, taken at a stage of ripeness, mild or strong, to suit the taste, then worked over, pressed into suitable packages, and sufficiently enriched to make a uniform smoothness. Flavor is increased in some instances by adding a little .wine or brandy. " Cheese Food "is q,lao standard cheese, into which has been in- 82 THE COOKING SCHOOL corporated the natural whey, reduced to a syrup. This gives a isweet taste to the cheese, which some, like, and restores the original equi- librium of the original milk components. All of these rich and fancy forms of cheese are recognized as relishes, to be used in small quan- tity, rather than as a substitute for food. If buyers would take a little trouble to properly care for the cheese they purchase, there would be less loss, it would be more enjoyable, and housekeepers would be more inclined to invest in such articles. A stone jar with a tight-fitting cover is a fitting receptacle. This should be placed in a storeroom or dry cellar where the temperature is maintained at between fifty and sixty degrees. This jar should be thoroughly cleansed and well aired before a new lot of cheese is put in. Epicures advise cutting cheese like the Stilton and " Young America " across one end of the cylinder, and keeping them with the cut sur- face downward in a soup-plate filled with old ale. An Edam may be similarly cut and pre- served. Cheeses, of the shapes last mentioned, may be cut directly in two, and then used from the cut surfaces, leaving these smooth, so they will fit closely together; the air may thus be ex- cluded and rapid drying prevented. If cheese in large pieces or fragments becomes dry and MILK 83 hard, it may be used for cooking purposes, either grated or melted, or for Welsh rare- bits. Cheese becomes a much more easily digestible and desirable article of food when cooked, as it can be in a hundred tasty and attractive ways, for which we refer the reader to our recipes here and in another volume. Cheese is considered, from a scientific point of view, a most nutritious article of food, al- though, owing to the absence of potash salts, it is not suitable for a continuous diet. In com- parison with meat, cheese is extremely eco- nomical from a pound-to-pound point of view. In the selected parts of meat, i. e., muscular fibre without bone, there is, in beef, an average of 72% per cent, of water ; in mutton, 73% ; in veal, 741/2 ; in pork, 693^, and in fowl 733^. In Cheshire cheese, and other popmar wrands, there is but 3OV3 per cent, of watei-. We, therefore, have in every pound of cneese more than twice the amount of solid foo^ tiaat is found in a pound of the best meat, or compar- ing with the average of the entire carcass, in- clijsive of bone, tendons, and other waste, cheese will show an advantage of three to one. , Gaseine, which is the fundamental' basis of 84 THE CCXDKING SCHOOL cheese, contains, according to Mulder's an- alysis : CABEINX Carbon . . , " 53.83 Hydrogen 7.15 Nitrogen 15.65 >guYpC[ '• • ^'-^^ Analyses of albumen, gelatine, and fibrin by the same authority are as follows : Albumen Gelatine Fibrin Carbon . . . . 53.5 50.40 52.7 Hydrogen .... 7.0 6.64 6.9 Nitrogen 15.5 18.34 15.4 Oxygen Sulphur 22.0 24.62 23.5 1.6 24.62 1.2 Phosphorus 0.4 24.62 0.3 From these tables we may safely assume that from the view of nitrogenous, or flesh-forming, and carbonaceous, or heat-giving, constituents, ihe chief materials of meat and cheese are fairly equal. One of the most remarkable facts about the manufacture of cheese is the way in which the coagulation is produced. As stated in an ear- lier part of the article, it is achieved by means of the rennet. This rennet is a part of the stomach of ' the calf, the mucous membrane, MILK 85 usually salted and dried for the purpose, in the milk, and warmed for a few hours previous to using. The most eminent authorities assume that the rennet acts primarily as a ferment, and con- verts the sugar of milk into lactic acid, which latter coagulates the caseine. A weak infusion made from a small piece of rennet will coagu- late three thousand times its own quantity of milk. There is a coagulation which takes place in the living stomach when milk is taken as food, which appears to be due to the lactic acid of the gastric juice. Hence the plausibility of the foregoing theory. LESSON EECIPES FOR CHEESE CHEESE DISHES No. 1. Prepare toast, dip in hot, salted water, grate enough dry cheese to cover the slices of toast, set in oven to melt, and put the slices to- gether as sandwiches. No. 2. ^ pound cheese grated or thinly sliced ; 1 tablesipoonful butter ; 1 cupful milk ; sprinkle salt. . Stir all together till smooth, over a gentle fire or in a double boiler, and spread over toast. No. 3. i pound cheese grated or thinly sliced ; 1 tablespoonf ul butter / 3 egg-yolks ; ^teaspoon- f ul mustard ; sprinkling of cayenne pepper. 36 THE C OOKING SCHOOL Stir to a smooth paste, spread on toast, and set in hot oven for four minutes. The whites of the eggs may be beaten stiff,, add a sprinkle of salt, drop lightly on the toast, brown in the oven. No. 4. 1 egg; 1 tablespoonful grated cheese; 3^ teaspoonful butter or 1 tablespoonful milk; sprinkle salt and pepper. Beat the egg, add the other ingredients, cook in a double-boiler till smooth and thickened, pour it on moistened toast. It may also be steamed five minutes in little cups, or baked very slowly for ten minutes. No. 5. Slices of bread ; 3 eggs ; II/2 cups milk ; 1 teaspoonful salt ; 1 cup gr9,ted cheese. Beat the eggs slightly, add the milk and salt. Soak the bread in the milk and egg till soft, but not broken. Lay the pieces in a pan, cover with cheese, bake or steam. No. 6. 14 cupful grated cheese ; 1 cup grated bread crumbs; I'egg; % cupful milk; sprinkle salt ; sprinkle cayenne pepper. Butter a baking-dish, put in the crumbs and cheese in layers, or mix together; keep some crumbs for the top. Beat the egg slightly, add the milk, salt, and pepper; pour on to the crumbs, add the top layer of crumbs ; bake until brown. No. 7. 1 cupful rice ; 4 cupfuls water; 1 tear spoonful salt ; 2 cupfuls grated cheese. MDLK 87 Pick over and wash the rice. Steam it in a double boiler, in the salt and water, until soft. Butter a baking dish, put in the rice and cheese in layers, pour on 1 cup white sauce ; sprinkle over it buttered cracker crumbs, brown in the oven. Macaroni may be used in the same way. LESSON VI EGGS In speaking of eggs, reference is made, of course, to those of tlie hen ; those of the turkey, goose, and duck are more rarely used. The weight of an egg varies considerably ac- cording to the breed of the fowl, and often in the same breed. In general the shell repre- sents about 12 per cent, of the total weight, the white, 58 per cent., and the yolk, 30 per cent. When we consider that the chicken is hatched from the egg, and that it has blood, muscles, nervous system, bones, etc., all analogous to ours ; and that all of these are formed from no extraneous source, we must be convinced of its great nutritive properties, and of its value as an article of food. All of this is verified by chemical analysis, which tells us that an egg is composed as follows : Water Albumen Pat Mineral Matter Total White of Egg Yolk of Egg 86 51 13 16 32 1 1 1 100 100 EGGS 89 The white of egg contains most water, and no fat; the yolk a very large percentage of fat. The white of egg is merely a solution of albu- men in water. The yolk is the greait nourishing l^art, and contains, besides, a number of salts, such as : phosphates, potash, lime, etc. The yolk mixes readily with bouillon, milk, boffee, and imparts to all of these an agreeable flavor. A given weight of egg, say 10 ouiices, contains as much nourishment as 35 ounces of milk; and is also equal to more than 5 ounces of moderately fat meat. Eggs are more easily digested in the raw, than in the cooked state. They are also easily di- gested as omelets, or when scrambled. Eggs possess the quality of producing more quickly a sense of satiety than any other food. This property has never been satisfactorily ex- plained. LESSON EECIPES FOE EGGS EGGS COOKED IN WATBB 1. Put 1 pint boiling water in a small sauce- pan, let it boil a moment, put an egg into it, and remove the pan from the fire. Let it stand, covered, for ten minutes. The egg will then be soft and creamy. This process cooks the albu- men of the egg at a temperature of about ISO', and makes it more digestible than if boiled. 90 THE COOKING SCHOOL • In order to cook several eggs, a little experi- menting must be done. Use a large saucepan and a large amount of boiling water, and try the eggs to find if they cook properly in ten minutes. If they are too soft at the end of the time, use more water, or let them cook fifteen minutes. If they become too hard in ten minutes use less water next time, or cook them for seven minutes. 2. When hard eggs are desired, cook as in the recipe above, but for thirty or forty minutes in,- stead of ten minutes, and it will be best to stand the saucepan on the back of the stove that the water may not become too cool. DROPPED EGGS 3. Break eggs, one at a time, into a cup. Put a quart of boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt into a saucepan. Let it boil, then move it back on the stove so that it will just cease to bubble. Drop in the eggs, one at a time, and cook until the white is firm. If several eggs are to be cooked at a time, use a large quantity of boiling water and salt. Serve them on toast, with a sprinkle of salt on each egg. SCBAMBLED EGGS 1 egg; 1 tablespoonful butter; % teaspoonful salt; sprinkle pepper; % cupful milk. ^ .' EGGS « Scald the milk in a double boiler. Mix the egg, salt, and pepper, and beat together. Pour the hot milk into the egg, stirring well, add the butter, and stir thoroughly in a double boiler until it thickens. Serve hot on steamed rice, or on toast. POACHED EGGS This method .is exactly like the scrambled eggs, with the omission of the milk. FEIBD EGGS • Eggs when fried are not so digestible as when cooked in other ways, because the heat of the fat makes the albumen leathery. Dropped eggs should be used instead of fried. BAKED EGGS 1. Break eggs, being careful to keep the yolks whole, into a buttered baking-dish. Put a sprinkle of salt on each egg, and bake in a moderate oven until the white is firm, or from ten to fifteen minutes. Add a sprinkle of butter to each egg, and serve at once. 2, Separate the yolks and whites. Beat the whites until stiff, with 1 sprinkle salt to each white. Put into a buttered dish, lay in the yolks here and there, and bake until the white is a golden-brown. « THE COOKING SCHOOL PLAIN OMELET 2 eggs ; 2 tablespoonfuls milk or water ; i tea^ spoonful salt. Beat the eggs, add the other ingredients, stir well, and pour into an omelet pan, well buttered with 1 teaspoonful butter. Set the pan back on the stove, where the omelet will cook slowly. Lift occasionally with a broad knife to see if the albumen is hardening. When it is firm on the bottom, turn the omelet over, and cook it two or three minutes, until the other side is also firm. Slip it on a hot plate and double it over in the centre. Many persons like a sjJeck of pepper added to the seasoning. FOAMY OMELET Using the ingredients in the recipe above, separate the eggs. Mix the yolks with the salt and pepper and beat, and stir in the milk. Beat the whites until stiff, and fold them lightly into the liquid. Melt 1 teaspoonful butter in an omelet pan, and heat it. As soon as it bubbles, pour in the mixture, set the pan on the back of the stove, and when the albumen is hardened so that the omelet is firm underneath, set the pan in the oven on the grate for two or three minutes to dry the top. Slip it on a hot plate and double it over in the centre. EGGS 93 MEAT OMELET Mix 1 tablespoonful of. ham, chopped fine, or of, any meat, with either the plain or foamy omelet, and cook as directed. A little chopped parsley may be added, if desired. When the omelet is cooked, chopped meat may be spread over half the top, and it may then be folded double. Sc^.lded oysters, whole or chopped, or stewed tomatoes may be used, instead of the meat. BAKED MEAT OMELET Prepare the foamy omelet, and add to it chopped meat, put it into a buttered pudding- dish, set it into a pan of boiling water, and bake until firm, FLOATING ISLAND 1 pint milk; 3 eggs; 2 tablespoonfuls sugar; 14 teaspoonful salt ; % teaspoonf ul spice, or l/^ teaspoonful flavoring. Scald the milk. Separate the eggs. Add the salt and sugar to the yolks, and beat. Beat the whites until very stiff, add 2 teaspoonfuls sugar to them, beat slightly, and drop spoonfuls of the stiff whites on top of the scalded milk. Let them cook two or three minutes until firm, lift out on- a plate, and pour the scalded milk on the beaten yolks. Put this mixture into the double boiler, and stir until it thickens. 7 THE CCXJKING SCHOOL Pour it into a china or glass dish. When nearly cool, stir in the flavoring, put the whites on the top, and serve cold, as a pudding. It is a good idea to pour this custard, while it is hot, over thin slices of bread or cake. A pretty way to serve it is to put specks of jelly on the top of the whites. To make cocoanut or chocolate custard, cook 2 tablespoonfuls cocoanut, or 1 tablespoonful melted chocolate in the scalded milk. BICED EGGS Cook 3 eggs in hot water one-half hour. Sep- arate the yolks from the whites and chop the whites. Make a white sauce by melting 1 table- spoonful butter, adding 1 tablespoonful flour, and 1 cupful milk, gradually. Season with y^. teaspoonful salt, and 1 sprinkle pepper ; stir in the whites and pour over slices of toast. Rub the yolks through a strainer over the whole. LESSON vn FOODS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN While the foods of animal origin, with, the exception of milk, consist essentially, and es- pecially in the simple foods, of albumen and fat ; those of vegetable origin are composed of albu- men and the hydrates of carbon, or starch and sugar. There are some fruits and grains also which are rich in fats, as the olive, for example. There is another essential difference between the two classes of foods, viz. : those of animal origin are directly accessible by the digestive juices, while those not of animal origin have nu- tritive parts enclosed in cellulose envelopes. In cooking, these envelopes are broken and -the contents exposed to the action of the saliva in the course of mastication. We will observe the vegetable foods in this order : 1. The cereals ; flours, and bread. 2. The leguminous grains ; peas and beans. 3. The roots and tubercles ; potatoes, carrots, and turnips. 4. Herbs and salads. 5. Fruits. fS 96 THE COOKING SCHOOL AND BEEAD The cereals upon wMcJi we are most depend- ent are wheat and rice. To those may be added rye, barley, and corn. These occupy the most important place in the group of vegetable foods, and their importance in the nourishment of man can hatdly be over-estimated. It hks been very justly said that the civilization of man began with the cultivation of grain; for that caused man to give up his nomadic life, and to take up a fixed abode. The nutritive value of cereals is very great. This is not at all surprising if we reflect that in eating grain we are in reality eating that which in the vegetable kingdom bears a true re- lation to the egg of the animal kingdom. The grain of a cereal is its seed ; and this is an organ which contains in itself all that goes to make up a new plant. Wheat flour may serve as a type of all the grains. It is used almost exclusively in America in the making of bread, and in many ways in the art of cooking. It contains, besides a small quantity of fat and a few salts, water, gluten, a special sort of albumen, and starch as a carbo-hydrate. Nothing is easier than to sep- arate these two materials ; mix a little flour and water to thickness of a paste, after it has stood FOODS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN 97 - „ \ , . _■■„. , a little white, mould it in the hands under a stream of running water, collect the water as it runs off, and after it has stood for a while a deposit of starch will be found in the bottom of the vessel in which it rests; the elastic, soft, grayish mass left in the hand is the gluten. Wheat. flour is composed of from 10 to 12 per cent, of gluten, 72 to 75 per cent, of fat, and some salts, principally phosphates, BEBAD If the statistical records are reliable, man finds in bread nearly half, and among the less wealthy part of the population about two-thirda, of the nourishing material which he needs. The process of bread-making is not to be described here in detail; suffice it tofsaiy that it oonsists in making a raised mass by the fermentation of a small quantity of sugar (which accompanies the starch) into alcohol and carbonic-acid gas. It is this latter which causes th^ mass to " rise," When this is cooked the outer covering, undej? the immediate action of the heat, is hardened into crust. The inner portion remains tender and soft. Wheat bread is composed of : Water, 34 to 35 per cent.; albumen (gluten), 7 per cent.; starchy matter, 55 per cent.; fat, 8.10 per cent. ; salt, 1 per cent. 98 THE COOKI NG SQIOOL BOOTS AND TUBERCLES These foods, which comprise potatoes, car- rots, and turnips, are less rich in nourishing matter than are the other vegetables, since they contain from 75 to 90 per cent, of water. They are also poorer in albumen and starchy matter. The potato occupies a prominent place among our foods. A few of the many good reasons for this may be noted. It is an abundant crop, and contains twice as much albumen, and nearly four times as much starch, as is yielded by nearly four times as much land sown in cereals. The potato also keeps very well through the year. However, towards the end of the winter the starch in the potato changes into sugar, and imparts to an old potato a sweetish taste. When the potato begins to sprout, the starch also undergoes a change into sugar. Hence the necessity of keeping potatoes not only in the dark to prevent them from sprouting, but also in a temperature neither too hot nor too cool. The potato is also capable of being served in so many palatable forms, and by so many easy processes, that it is very popular with chefs. When a potato is boiled in water, the starchy matter swells up on absorbing water, and espe- cially the cellular sacs themselves; consequently, while it is rich in starch it becomes on boiling FOODS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN 99 poor in water, dry and mealy. A potato whicli is poor in starcli swells little in water, and is soft and watery after boiling. New potatoes, being imperfectly mature, are very likely to be of this nature; Carrots and turnips are of less value as food than are potatoes. OTHBE VEGETABLES, HERBS, AND SALADS These are mainly more aqueous than the other vegetables just noted. Water is present in them to from 90 to 95 per cent., and the nutri- tive matter is not more than from 5 to 8 per cent. They are, however, richer in salts or mineral matter. rRUITS These are quite rich in water, but rather less so than the vegetables. The albumen in them is comparatively insignificant; but they contain important quantities of starch and sugar, as well as acids, and odorous substances which are very agreeable ai^d useful in cooking. The fruits which are richest in sugar are cherries, and especially the grape. Dried fruits are naturally richer than fresh fruits, but they are not eaten raw; and on cooking they regain the water which they lost in drying. Cooked fruits are more easily digested than are raw fruits. JOO THE COOKING SCHOOL By reason of the quantity of water which cooked fruits introduce into the system, they lessen the necessity for drinks, and also the desire for al- coholic drinks. Statistics prove that the con- sumption of alcoholic drinks is less in propor- tion as the eating of fruits is great. Dried fruits such as almonds, and nuts gener- ally, are remarkable for their richness in albu- men and fat, and for the very small proportion of starch and sugar. LEGUMINOUS PLANTS The leguminous plants, represented by. beans and peas, constitute by far the richest food which the vegetable kingdom affords. These contain as much, and even more, albumen than the richest animal food, meat, and besides yield a very considerable supply of starchy material. Few foods are as rich. Little peas, or petits pois, which are picked before they are ripe, con- tain a high percentage of water, and are very weak, in consequence, in albuminous nourish- ment. CONDIMENTS AND HOES d'cEUVEES. Condiments are ingredients which are added to foods to impart a flavor, to stimulate the ap- petite, and to aid digestion. They are either simple or compound. Sin^ FOODS OF V EGETABLE ORIGIN I0» pie condiments are gifts of nature; compound condiments are products of tlie art of cookery. Simple condiments are divided into seven classes : salt, acid, sharp, bitter, aromatic, sweet, and fat condiments. Salt. — This is sea-salt, the chloride of sodium of the chemist ; nitre, or saltpetre. The latter is never used by cooks, but only in the preserva- tion of meats. Sea-salt enters into the cooking and the seasoning of food in nearly all of the culinary preparations. It is beyond question the best and the most healthy of the seasonings. Its use is to moderately excite the mucus mem- brane of the mouth, to increase the flow of sa- liva, and to increase the appetite. There are several combinations and preparations of it, such as celery-salt, etc. Acids. — ^Vinegar, lemon, etc., form the acid condiments. They, should be taken only in moderate quantities, and then much diluted. They excite the salivary glands, quench the thirst, and help to render the more indigestible food, such as the mucilaginous kinds, more easily assimilated. Sharp or Acrid. — This class includes mem- bers of the onion and garlic families, mustard, cress, radish, horseradish, peppers, Tabasco, capers, and nasturtium. Aromatic. — Parsley, caraway, thyme, rose- I^ THE COOKING SC HOOL mary, sage, sununer savory belong to tMs group. Sharply Aromatic. — This division includes cabbage, cauliflower, ginger, black pepper, cay- enne pepper, and pimento. Sweet. — Sugar, gums, mucilages, and starches belong under this head. Fat. — Olive oil, almond oil, oil of nuts, fats, and butter. The compound condiments, outside of the sauces, are usually classed with the hors d'ceuvres. These are relishes which are served at the commencement of a meal, or after the soup, before the first service, to whet the appe- tites of the diners. They are of infinite variety and include vegetables, fish, etc. They are butter, radishes, olives, slices of sausage or bo- logna, sardines, anchovies, herring (either smoked or salted), artichokes, cucumber with salad, and, above all, when the season permits, oysters. LESSON VIII FOOD ESTIMATES In order to facilitate comparison of the values as food of the several articles of diet of both animal and vegetable origin, a table is here presented. Albumen Fat Starcb and Sugar Gruyfere Cheese 30!« 30^ _ Beans 2H — 53^ Peas 2H — 52% Lean Beef 2n H — Yolk of Egg \H 32^ — Total Egg 12.5% 12^: — Rice 6% m Bread . 7% _ 55% Cow's Milk 3.5^ H ■5.7% Potatoes . 2% 21% Carrots . . 1% — 9% Apples . • .H — m Cheese occupies the first place in the list for richness in albumen. After it in order come beans and peas. The richness of eggs in albu- men and fat is remarkably high. Potatoes, carrots, and apples, which may be regarded as types of the other roots, tubercles, and fruits, are very poor in the respective simple foods. {03 104 THE COOKING SCHOOL This table might be elaborated, and very much lengthened; but tables are always considered rather dry methods of presenting facts. A suf- ficient number of representative foods is here given to show the values of the several food articles. ■ The process of .cooking has in view the reach- ing of two distinct ends, and these are often, at- tained by a single process. These are: to modify the chemical and physical state of the articles of food in order to make them more di- gestible ; and, secondly, to impart to the food a more agreeable appearance, taste, and odor, by processes of roasting, boiling, and the addition of sauces, condiments, etc. For instance, a raHw potato is almost indigestible; but when it is boiled, the grains of which it is composed are rendered lighter, and consequently more easily dissolved. The woody fibre in which these grains of starchy matter are enclosed is broken down, and thei contents are more easily reached by the saliva and the digestive juices. It is often stated that only the first of these ends is of prime importance ; and that a nor- mally healthy person requires no stimulus to the appetite created by youth, ex6rcise, and the bodily losses. Yet we all know that one may go to a table with a keien appetite and a relish for food, and partake of badly cooked and badly FOOD ESTIMATES J05 served food, rise from the table with a feeling of satiety, and still not have eaten in proportion to the real needs of the body. How often have we anticipated a meal with relish, and yet been able to eat of it, as the French say, with only the ends of our teeth. And again, how often have we ap- proached a meal with no feeling of appetite, only to find ourselves enticed to hearty eating by the appetizing dishes. We of course know the teaching that we should not eat when we do not crave food, and while this, in a sense, is nature's warning to abstain, yet we know of many cases where the lack of desire arises from no impairment of the bodily functions, but from many other causes. How many housekeepers tire of their own cooking, and ' ' would give any- thing for some one's else cooking, even though it be much inferior ' ' ! The lack of appetite is also in many cases a warning from nature that too much of one sort of food is being taken, and that the bodily needs in other directions are being ignored. Then it is that- savory dishes and enticing cooking play their true part in the household economy. To all of these may be added the effects of climate, age, and occupa- tion ; to say nothing of the lack of exercise, the sedentary habits, and the jaded appetite of those in poor health. Here is a field for the active and steady influence of all of tLi intelli- 106 THE COOKING SCHOOL gence, skill, neatness, and ingenuity that a housekeeper can exert. THE NORMAL DIET There are three possible diets which present their claims for consideration as being normal : the animal, the vegetable, and the mixed. The absolutely animal diet comprises only meat in its several forms, milk, and eggs. It is, of course, in practice never carried out in that extreme, for bread is always included in it. Even among savages the animal diet has al- ways some product of the earth added to the purely animal constituents. The absolutely vegetable diet comprises only the products of the earth to the exclusion of all food of animal origin. But in practice this diet includes also milk and eggs. This form of diet has many adherents among religious bodies, notably the Brahmins of India. There is a group of vegetarians in Manchester, England, who have adopted as their formula: V. E. M. Vegetables, eggs, milk. By a mixed diet is meant one of meat, milk, eggs, bread, vegetables, and fruits. VEGETAKIANISM Among the arguments in favor of this form of diet, we meet first the sentimental argu- FOOD ESTIMATES W ment against the killing of animals, and that against eating dead things. A more serious, argument is that based upon the anatomical: structure of man, his late teething, the length of the digestive tract, etc., to show that he is not, by nature, a carnivorous animal. It is shown, also, that the diet of man in his earlier development was vegetable. Whole races of people in ancient times confined them- selves to this form. Even miners in Chili, porters in Smyrna, and numerous others confine themselves to fruits and vegetables. Great personages in all ages of the world have prac- tised it: Pythagoras, Newton, Voltaire, Eous- seau, and Queen Elizabeth of England. From a hygienic point of view, a vegetable diet is not so heating as is either a mixed or an animal diet. Vegetables are naturally more bulky than are meats, and take up in processes of cooking a very large quantity of water. This greater bulk is a safeguard against over-eat- ing. They also carry with them a sufficient quantity of the alkalines or salts. There is also the very important element of lessened cost in the case of vegetables over meat. It is a fact of scientific importance that much eating of fruits tends to prevent alcoholism. German statis- tics prove this fact beyond doubt. We fre- quently hear that this or that fruit is to be re- K» THE COOKING SCHOOL garded as a preventive against indulgence in liquor to excess. But the fact is that any fruit, especially those carrying an abundance of juice, together with the acids and salts of the fruit, will produce the result. One of the greatest inconveniences of the vegetable diet is the great bulk of the food, and the large amount of indigestible cellulose which it contains. The increased bulk in time causes a strain upon the digestive tube as well as upon other organs of the body. ANIMAL DIET This food is very rich in nutritious matter, especially albumen and fat. These are necessary to those who perform hard physical labor, and to those who are ex- posed to low temperatures. Whether or not the diet is the cause, it is remarkable that those who live upon a meat diet are strong in physi- cal and moral energy. Among the inconveni- ences of such a diet may be mentioned the danger of over-eating by reason of the compact- ness of the food. There is also the increased difficulty of digestion. Meats and cheese are heating, and cause a harmful intestinal fermen- tation. _ FOOD ESTIMATES 109 THE MIXED DIET The mixed diet is that which is most general in society. In such a diet meat occupies a prominent place. A great deal of attention has been given to the use and value of meat by reason of its recommendation, in cases of ansemia and tuberculosis, by physicians. It must not be forgotten that while a certain quan- tity of it is valuable in furnishing alimentation, there is danger of poor nourishment resulting from eating too much of it. One is likely to get less nourishment from eating largely of meat than from the consumption of moderate, or even small quantities. The meat also furnishes such a variety of forms that it takes, on that account too, a prominent place in our dietary. It is also capable of such rapid manipulation that it is popular with cooks. In an emergency, what is more easily prepared than a couple of boiled eggs, or a broiled steak? These are among the vtendeacies which cause our mixed diet to be overbalanced. The meat, very rich in nutri- ment, occupying little space, and lacking the salts and alkaline matter, should be corrected by the presence of a vegetable, which will provide the bulk and alkaline matter. In this way there will result a diet which will be sufficiently rich, not excessive in volume, yet voluminous enough »0 THE COOKING SCHOOL to comfortably excite the intestinal contrac- tions, and to supply the necessary mineral mat- ter. In making up such a diet one must remem- ber that albumen is supplied both by meats and vegetables. It is a good rule to let the vege- table supply at least two-thirds of the albumen, and the meat the remainder. When made up ia this way the volume of the food is not excessive, yet is quite considerable. It is the opinion of physicians who have devoted many years to this subject, that the health is endangered if the meat supplies daily more than half of the neces- sary albumen. One of the greatest needs is to see that vegetables are well represented upon the table, not only by bread, macaroni, and the ever-present potato, but by green peas, and cooked, or even raw fruits. No doubt there are seasons of the year when it is difficult to do this, but whenever it is possible it should be attended to. THE DAILY BATION The general idea has been given of the kinds of food which should go to make up a meal. That forms the diet. The quantity of those which should go to make up a daily supply forms the ration. This daily supply of food goes to satisfy two wants. First, the need of a certain number of materials to repair the loss of FOOD ESTIMATES HI tissues, and, second, the need of a certain supply of force, or energy. * In the choice of a daily ration, one must know the conditions of life of those for whom it is prescribed. The social conditions which affect it are very complex. There is a very marked difference between the condition of life of a la- borer, and one of the leisure class, or one of a sedentary occupation. In the case of a laborer, there is need of a greater supply of food to re- pair the waste of the tissues through muscular exercise, and also of those foods which will sup- ply the necessary force for the daily work. The influence of climate demands that the supply of fat be increased during cold weather, and correspondingly diminished in hot weather. Dr. Kane, the Arctic explorer, tells us that an Esquimau will drink ten or twelve gallons of train-oil a day. Inhabitants of the tropical re- gions, on the contrary, are known to live upon fruits all the year around. Heat is the great essential in cold weather, and that is best sup- plied by fats and carbonaceous matter. In warm countries man must see to it that the food is not too heating. We, too, must see to it in our own climate that the proper balance is maintained in winter and summer. In winter we need a liberal diet of meat, butter,' potatoes, sugar, and similar food, while in summer these 112 THE COOKING SCHOOL are to be avoided. Neglect to properly adjust the food to the varying seasons is a prolific cause of indigestion and other ailments. Another essential factor to be observed in choosing food is its digestibility. And this is a rather difficult point to decide upon, for there is no relation between the nutritive qualities of a food and its digestibility. Still another dif- ficulty in estimating the digestibility of food, is the fact that so much more depends upon the condition of health of the consumer, than upon the food itself. A young person of good health, and taking plenty of exercise, is able to digest almost any food. But young children whose constitutions are forming, sick persons, and those of a sedentary life are very much harder to cater to. In speaking of sedentary occupa- tion, we must discriminate between those who do a great deal of brain work and those who do not. The diet of students should be very lib- eral. Labor of the brain is much more exhaust- ing to the system than is muscular labor. Therefore it is not right to hastily conclude that because a person does not perform much muscu- lar labor, he does not require so much or such nourishing food as a laborer does. It is said that three hours of hard study exhausts the system and causes more waste of tissue than a whole day of manual labor. The only way in FOOD ESTIMATES JJ3 which this waste of tissue can be supplied is by means of proper food. In general, it inay be said that the greatest amount of nourishment is to be derived from partaking of the sort of food that one likes best, and that in the pleasantest surroundings possible. LESSON IX THE AET OF COOKERY CooKEEY embraces a large variety of matters whicli call for the exercise of intelligent direc- tion and control. It is much more than a knowledge of the actual cooking of food; one must know the seasons of the year when this or that article is not only in the market, but at its best. Economy, thrift, good digestion, and con- sequent good tempei", are also among the sub- jects \fhich the housekeeper must control. Then, too, a knowledge of the tastes and health of the members of the household offers no small part of complexity. The choice of the menu for the day involves the recollection of preceding days, that the monotony of a too frequent recuri;ence of a dish may be relieved; for uncertainty in the daily diet is a potent factor in maintaining the family appetite. Much of the pleasure of the table is lost when the members of the family can fore- tell the menu by the day of the week. The ar- rangement of the menu is^ not a haphazard operation, and is not secured without much Ui THE ART OF COOKERY IJ5 study and planning. There is a necessity of utilizing the beaux restes of yesterday, as the French call the " left-over," without duplicat- iag yesterday's menu. Housekeeping is no Bimple art, even in the humblest homes, or in fajmlies of the simplest taste. iSttCcess is impossible in all, or indeed in any, ©f tho household departments unless the mis- tress rules. No servant can direct»a, household ; ifXid no mistress can rule her household unless she is well equipped in the knowledge of every detail of her servants' work. It takes a culti- vated, capable woman to secure the necessary economy and comfort of a home. Not one servant in ten thousand has, or can acquire, that education by which a mistress is able to make the best and the most of her resources. MENU-MAKING ' McBu-making is frequently a point of great difficulty to the average housewife. One of the best means of securing a properly made menu is to \mte down a list of whatever is intended to be provided. This need not be an elaborate af- fair, but should be clear enough to be thor- oughly understood by the cook. The three points to be considered are: 1* What was left over from yesterday?) 2. What is now in the larder? JJ6 THE COOKIKG SCHOOL 3. What is in season? The first point is by no means to be de- spised, even by those housekeepers who are not restricted by the cost of articles of food. The English words, " warmed-overs " and ' ' scraps, ' ' are not so imposing and euphonious as the French rechauffe and beaux restes; but none the less ought strict attention to be paid to the care an^ the use of the remnants from a previous meal. These should be well looked over, and a decision made as to what can be utilized for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. If the cook does not appreciate it, she should be taught that nothing is too small to save ; and when she sees that these are utilized in the dining-room, and are not all left for her, she will have pro- gressed far upon the road to economy. If she sees that a dainty macedoine, or a delicate Eus- sian or Italian salad, may be made from the cold, cobked vegetables of the previous day, she will learn that what an ordinary cook wastes may appear next day in the form of a dainty and economical entree. In arranging a inenu, care must be taken that a flavor is not repeated. If, for instance, to- mato sauce is used, it is a mistake to have tomatoes again in any form. On formalocca- sions, even such little matters as the color of the dishes is not to be disregarded. If the fish is THE ART OF COOKERY »7 white, and there are two entrees, one white and the other dark, it is well to serve the dark entree first. The great aim in menu-making is to have every dish, however .simple, as perfect as pos- sible, rather than to strive after novelty and the unintelligent use of extravagant material. Another point which must influence a house- keeper in the selection of food and in the ar- rangement of menus is the knowledge of the proper food according to the occupation, age, and state of health of the several members of the family ; also what food is best suited to the climate, or to the season of the year. For young and growing persons there must be an abun- dance of nourishing food arranged at proper in- tervals. Everything of an exciting or stimulat- ing nature must be rigidly excluded. For them there should be milk, cereals, and fruit, vege- tables, a small portior^ of well-cooked meat, few eggs ; plain cake, little ice cream — not too cold, and simple puddings, and cookies, or wafers. The diet for aged persons is like that for young and growing persons, except in quantity. One of the greatest sources of comfort in old age is a simple diet. The occupation must be considered in pre- paring a diet. For those who are called upon to perform much work which tasks the muscular 118 THE COOKING SCHOOL strength, much muscle-making food is needed. This is not meat alone, as many suppose, but in- cludes peas, beans, and cheese. If the labor is performed in the open air, the food need not be so easily digestible as is required for those "who lead sedentary lives. The outdoor life aids di- gestion. Those who are confined indoors need food which gives much nourishment in small com- pass, and that is to be prepared in its most di- gestible form. Where there is much brain ex- ercise, fat is to be avoided, and the diet is to be composed of starchy and heat-producing foods. Above all, a diet must not be overbalanced. A well-prepared menu will not show too much of one sort of food. These several sorts of foods and their chemical composition have been con- sidered in the chg,pters on " Foods and Their Values." Apart from any scientific study. ot the question, and any regard for the chemical side, one's appetite is the best guide for this aspect. If too many species of one chemioas sort of food are provided, they will not all ow eaten. Nature is, after all, a very reliaoiw guide in these matters. , There is no doubt that the arrangement ol menus is a very great tax upon the intelligence and ingenuity '>f the thoughtful housekeepeiv THE ART OF COOKERY «9 It is just there that the written record of "what is provided from day to day comes in. There is less danger of repeating if this be done. Eather than trust to the memory for what can be pro- vided, the table upon " What to Eat " will be found most helpful. Frequent and regular con- sultation of this will help one in many a di- lemma. WHAT SHALL WE HAVE FOR BREAKFAST? FRUITS Apples Bananas Black hemes Cherries Currants Figs Gooseberries Grapes — Brighton Melons- Grapes — Concord " Delaware " Malaga " Muscatel " Tokay " Hothouse Pijieapples Grape Fruit Strawberries Huckleberries Raspberries Lemons Pears Oranges Peaches Cantaloupe Water Oatmeal Hominy Cracked Wheat Milk Porridge Brewis CBBBAIS Grape Nuts Rice Indian Meal Mush Farina Quaker Oats Pettyjohns BREADS Parker House Rolls Whole Wheat Raised Apple MufiBns Biscuits Graham Geims Sally Lunn 'Egg Biscuits Bfot Cross Buns English Muflans Milk Biscuits Waffles Buckwheat Cakes Griddle Cakes Flannel Cakes Corn Cakes Force Cream of Wheat Uneeda Biscuit Wheatlet Meal and Flour Porridge Corn Bread Johnny Cakes Toast German Toas^ Milk Toast Cream Toast Fried Mtish Corn Pone, Southern Style (20 THE CCXDKING SCHOOL Boiled Poached Fried Scrambled Poached in Milk Shirred Devilled Fried with Brown Sauce Shad, Planked " Broiled " Fried " Croquettes " Eoe EGGS Minced with Tongue Minced with Ham Curry of Eggs Omelet Plain " English " with Tomato Sauce " Bread Baked FISH Perch Fish Cutlets Lobster and Crab Cutlets Salmon Steaks Omelet with Oysters " with Ham " " Cheese " " Jelly Baked Eggs Souffl6 Eggs and Tomatoes Egg Croquettes Scalloped Eggs Pickerel with Cream Sauce Soft Shell Crabs Codfish Spanish Mackerel Eels Finn an-Haddie Smoked Salmon Fried Smelts with Haddock, Broiled Eoman Sauce Halibut Steak Trout (Fried) Frogs' Legs MEATS Bacon and Apples Stewed Liver, Sausages Kidneys Pork Chops Sweetbreads Tripe Liver and Bacon Hamburg Steak Fried Chicken Steak with Onions Turkey Croquettes Chili con Came, Stewed Calf Brains Small Birds Mexican Veal Cutlets GAME Eabbit Venison Quail and Woodcock WHAT SHALL WE HAVE FOE LUNCHEON? LUNCHEON Oysters and Clams " on Half-Shell " Cocktail " Fricasseed " Creamed " Fried " Scalloped " Stew " Steamed " Pigs in Blankets Ijobster k la Newburg Cutlets " Scalloped DISHES Crabs, Devilled Crabs en Ooquille, Cuban Shrimps Sardines Anchovy Toast Caviare Salmon Baked Smelts with Oyster Force-meat Creamed Shad Halibut and Cheese Curried Veal Banana Toast THE ART OF COOKERY 121 LUNCHEON DISHES Egg Timbales Larded Sweetbreads, Fried or Koasted Sweetbreads en Nid Curried Chicken Hotchpotch, Italian Beef Loaf Pressed Veal Jellied Tongue Rump Steak and Tomatoes Roulades of Beef Mock Pat6 de Foie G-ras Cottage Pie Irish Stew Bramson Toast Chipped Smoked Beef Galantine Porterhouse Steak with Oysters Croquettes — Oyster Lobster Croquettes — Chicken Chicken and Macaroni Rice Potato Celery Sweetbread Chicken Casserole Rice and Snow Casserole Creamed Chi(iken Philadelphia Scrapple Cheese Dishes Fondu of Cheese Rice and Cheese Pudding Cheese Puffs Cheese SouflB6 Golden Buck Walsh Rarebit Macaroni and Cheese Cheese Rings Cheese Cutlets VEGETABLES Hashed Brown Potatoes Potato Chips Potatoes on Half-Shell Sweet Potatoes au gratin Pea Pancakes Buttered Rice Tomato Farcies Boston Baked Beans Baked Mushrooms SANDWICHES Brunette Sandwiches Walnut Sandwiches Egg Peanut " Watercress " Cottage Cheese " Salad Nasturtium Sandwiches Raisin Date and Nut Lettuce Anchovy Club Chicken Lobster Crab Shrimp Sardines SALADS Beet Fruit Dandelion Cucumber Pear Lettuce and Tomato Asparagus and Potato Shrimps Peach Cauliflower Endive Green Strawberry Banana Lenten Sweetbread and Celery Cherry m THE COOKING SCHOOL CAKES Huckleberry Chocolate Nut Cake Strawberiy Chocolate German Coffee Cake Bride's Cake Caramel Cake Springleys, German Marble Cake Apple Cake Gingerbread Fruit Cake Almond Macaroon Pound Cake Currant Cookies Gold Cake Cocoanut Cream Pub. Sponge Cake Gingersnaps Kleiner, Danish Doughnuts Almond Cake Peppernuts, Germai Daisy Cake WHAT SHALL WE HAVE FOR DINNEl SOUPS Mock Turtle Oyster Bis sque Cream of Onion Oxtail Soup Lobster " Cream of Pea Glasgow Broth Clam :( Bean Soup Mulligatawny Cheese (t Onion Soup Chicken Cream Tomato U Split-Pea Soup Beef Bouillon Cream of, Spinach Clam Chowder Gumbo, Creole Cream of Celery Noodle Souj) Julienne Cream of Tomato Lentil Soup Red Snapper FISH Soft-Shell Crabs Pickerel Baked B ueflsh Terrapin Porgies Black Bass Pompano Salmon Sea Bass Whitefish Turbot Muskalonge Weakfish Sole Shad Flounders Whitebait Halibut Haddock Kingflsh Fresh Mackerel Perch Eels PlIiCE DE RESISTANCE Roast Beef Roast Lamb Braised Beef Veal Pot Pie Pot Roast of Beef Capon, Baked or Roasted Beef k la Mode Chicken, Fricasseed Beef Tongue Duck, Olive Sauce Roast Leg of Veal Goose with Sauerkraut Saddle of Mutton Turkey, , Roasted Beef Fillets Mignon 11 ' Boiled Ham Supreme, Boiled It ■with Truffles Lamb Crown Chicken with Ham Little Pig, Baked or Roasted Chicken Espagnole Roast Veal THE ART OF COOKERY m entr£:es Beefsteak Eagolit Beef Tongue Fillets, Baked Bouchees Savory Calf's Head a la Vinaigrette Creamed Chicken Chicken Croquettes Chicken Livers Chicken Timbales Lamb Croquettes Corned Beef, Creamed Oyster Patties Sweetbreads Sweetbreads Croquettes " Fillets Tongue Salmi, EagoM Scallop of Ham Welsh Rarebit Codfish Cakes Salmon Toast Chicken or Game Creamed in Aspic Veal Soup Pat§ de Foie Gras en Surprise SHERBETS Brandy and Sherry Sherbet Grape^Sherbet Cardinal Sherbet Champagne Sherbet Claret Sherbet Coffee Sherbet Crfeme de Mentha Crfeme Yvette Fruit Sherbet Ginger Sherbet Lalla Rookh Sherbet Maraschino Cherry Sherbet Mint Sherbet Orange Sherbet Peach Sherbet Roman Sherbet Rose-Leaf Sherbet Siberian Sherbet Artichokes Asparagus Brussels Sprouts Beets (Sour Sauce) Cabbage au gratin Carrots Cauliflower Chestnut Boulettes Chestnut Pur^e VEGETABLES Cucumber Farci Egg Plant Farci Green Corn, Creamed Green ,Corn Fritters Peas in Crustades Hominy Crescents Tomatoes Turnips Squash String Beans Cabbage Rice Mushrooms Creamed Celery Peppers Kohlrabi GAME Ducks, Broiled or Roasted " Canvas-backs " Redheads " Ruddy " Broad-bill " Teal Grouse, Roasted Partridge, Roasted Prairie Chicken, Roasted Pheasants, Roasted Hare, Roasted Babbit, B&utA Partridge, Baked Pigeons with Mushrooms Plover Snipe Squabs Woodcock §uails eed Birds Squirrels Venison Chops Steak Duck or Grouse Salmi 124 THE COOKING SCHOOL HOT DESSERT Apple Balls Fig Compote Baked Bananas Macaroni Souffle Cocoanut Timbales Omelet Souffle Plum Pudding Short Cakes Rum Custard PUDDING SAUCES Claret Sauce Caramel Sauce Hard Sauce Maple Sauce HOT SAUCES Whipped Cream Sauce Banana Sauce Chocolate Sauce Fruit Sauce Orange Sauce COLD DESSERT Sheri^ Sauce Soft Sauce Bavarian Cream Charlotte Russe Cabinet Pudding Caramel Custard Chestnut Cream Date Souffle ICE CREAMS Fruit Macedoine Strawberries en Surprise French Caramel Ice Cream Vanilla Philadelphia Ice Burnt Almond Violet Cream Chocolate Caf6 Frapp6 Mousse Macaroon Fruit Frapp6 Biscuit Glac6 Pistachio Water Ice Biscuit Tortoni Nougat PASTRY • Plain Paste Puff Paste Bouch^es patfe Tartlets Vol au Vents Cream Crab Apple Chocolate Custard Cocoanut Marlboro PIES Mince Pumpkin Raisin Rhubarb Huckleberry Almond Tartlets A FEW DRINKS ■ Macaroon Currant Cherry Peach Pineapple Apricot Whiskey Sour Claret Cup Manhattan Egguogg Cocktail Sherry Flip Martini Cocktail Mint Julep Vermouth Cocktail Pousse Caf6 Hot Apple Toddy Tom and Jerry Sherry Cobbler Whiskey Collins Silver Fizz Horse's Neck Plain Gin Fizz Claret Punch Champagne Punch Punch Gin Rickey Mamie Taylor Whiskey Sling Hot Gin Sling Brandy and Soda Rock and Rye THE ART OF COOKERY J25 MABKETING This is usually one of the terrors of the young housekeeper. There is no department of do- mestic science to which attention may be more profitably devoted than to the proper selection of food. Economy, health, and comfort all de- pend upon the efficient discharge of this duty. A feeling of utter helplessness comes over an inexperienced person when she faces the ordeal of a shop full of meats from which she has nerved herself to make a selection. She knows that those who are serving her are only too well aware of her incompetency and feels that they are ready to play upon it to the utmost. Every rule, and test, and guide to the selection of good meat leaves her, and she relies upon the recommendations of the salesman after a show of critical examination and of careful selection. Her mortification, disappointment, and humilia- tion, when the verdict of the family is rendered at the tJible, are too sacred to bear any comment. Eight here is where the novice needs all the resolution, perseverance, and intelligent action that she can summon. If she is a good cus- tomer of the butcher, she may so impress him with the assurance that bad service means the loss of her trade that she may tide over the learning period until sLe is strong enough to 9 126 THE COOKING SCHOOL be her own marketer. She may see what a piece of meat looks like before cooking, and then note how it turns out. It will take several such lessons to know even what part of the animal the cut came from. We have seen some sirloins sent out to young housekeepers that never grew within two feet of that location, or else the ani- mal was a fearful monstrosity. It will be found that it is one thing to know what are the best parts of meat to order, but it is another thing to know whether one has received the part one ordered. The simplest point to begin with is the odor of meat. There is a peculiar, characteristic odor to all meat. This is easily learned^ If the meat has the slightest odor of taint, or any dis- agreeable smell, do not hesitate a moment about sending it back, or refusing to accept it. You are not only thoroughly justified in doing so, but it is your duty to do it. Do not be deterred from it by any assurances or indignation on the part of the butcher, or by any fear that you may make a mistake, or be thought inexperienced or too finicky. In such eases a slight error in judgment is to be preferred to ptomaine poison- ing. The first step, and one that is very quickly learned, is to see that all meat, poultry, game, and fish are fresh and sweet in odor. A second test of the freshness and quality of ox— BEEF A — ^Head B— Sticking Piece G-^Neck D— Chuck, Second and Third E— Chuck, First F— First Cut of Ribs G— Middle Cut of Ribs ' H— Back Cut of Ribs I-Plate J- Brisket K— Butt End of Brisket L— Bolar M— Bony End Shoulder N— Sljin O — Loin P— Flank Q— Eiimp , R— Veiny Piece S— Round , ' T— Leg U-Tail ' V— Leg VEAL A — Head B-Neck C— Sticking Piece, End of Breast D— Shoulder E— Back P— Breast- G— Loin, Best End H — Loin, Bone End I— Flank J— Fillet and Cutlets K — Knuckle ^^- MS -Feet THE ART OF COOKERY J27 meat is that of its action under pressure. Press firmly upon the end of the meat with the thumb. If the dent made by the pressui'e rises up at once, the meat is all right. But if it does not rise, or is slow in rising, you may. be sure that the animal was an old one, or that the meat is not of good quality. The color of beef is also a good guide. If the meat is bright red, you may infer that it is fresh, and that it is probably ox-beef ; cow-beef is not quite so red. If the meat is dark red, the animal was probably poorly fed, and too old for food. Good ox-beef has a yellowish fat, while that of cow-beef is whiter. Some housekeepers 'who dislike fat meat se- lect the lean. But this is often a mistake. Fat animals are well nourished, and the meat is more likely to be tender than is that of lean ani- mals which are poorly fed, or over worked or driven. Lean parts of fat animals are the wiser selection. The best cuts are in the end the cheapest, for there is always a greater propor- tion of bone, gristle, and poor meat in the in- ferior cuts. These, of course, are useful in the making of soups, stews, etc., but they are ex- pensive in boiling and roasting pieces. The names of the pieces of beef, as most com- monly applied in America, are as shown in illus- tration. 128 THE COOKING SCHOOL The best mutton is that of aaimals from three to five years old. Young mutton is tender, older mutton is richer and more juicy, and a great deal depends upon the breeding and feed- ing. Good mutton is of a dark red color, the meat is firm and juicy, the fat is clear, hard, and whitish. Do not hesitate to reject all mutton in which the fat is yellow. If the meat is flabby, and if the fat around the kidney is small and stringy, the meat is not good. There is less fat in the leg, and slightly more in the shoulder. There is also less bone in the leg; so it may be regarded as the best part of the sheep. As there is touch bone and fat in the neck, it is the least desirable part. In selecting mutton, look for the large vein in the neck. If this is of a blue color, the sheep is fresh; but refuse it if the vein is green. In selecting a hind-quarter, the kidneys will have a slight odor if the meat is not fresh. Compare the fat upon the back with that upon the kid- neys ; if they are both white and hard and of the same color, the m^at is all right. Lamb.— -The term is applied to the young of sheep until it is twelve months old. Ij; is then called a yearling, though still sold as lamb. Spring lamb is a luxury only because it is out of season. The flesh is insipid, and does not in LAMB OE MUTTON A— Head B— Neck C— Shoulder D— Back E— Breast F— Loin, Best End G^ — Loin, Bone End H— Leg I-Flank PORK A— Head B— Neck C— Shoulder D— Loin, Rib End E— lioin, Best End F— Breast G— Flank H— Ham I— Ham, Butt End ' J— Ham, Hook End -Feet THE ART OF COOKERY 129 any way compare with the lamb in season, which is usually in the summer months. Very young lamb is sold only by the quarter ; and the weight is then from 4 to 6 pounds to a quarter. Later in the season the weight is from 8 to 12 pounds to the quarter. It will go as high as 25 pounds to the quarter,, but the carcass is then cut up the same as mutton. In cut- ting lamb the butcher splits the carcass length- wise and then quarters it. Two or three, ribs are left on the hind-quarter. In older animals, the leg is cut off and either cut into the leg for roasting and boiling, or into chops, as required. To distinguish a fore-quarter of lamb from a fore-quarter of mutton, it is only necessary to carry an idea of the difference of size, and to note that the bones of lamb are more reddish than are those of mutton. The breast and the adjacent ribs are considered the most delicious parts of the fore-quarter, and are usually roasted. It is advisable to remove the blade- bone to facilitate carving. The loin is either cracked for roasting, or di- vided into chops. The neck and breast are sometimes separated from the shoulder and roasted. Lamb does not keep long after killing. Look at the large vein in the fore-quarter or neck; if it is bluish the meat is in good condition ; but 130 THE COOKING SCHOOL it is to be rejecte.d if the vein is of a green color, for that is an indication of unfitness. In se- lecting a hind'quarter it is safe to reject it if the fat over the kidney gives out a slightly dis- agreeable odor. Pork. — The leg and the shoulder of pork are most esteemed. The loin is the best roast. Good pork is marked by a pale red color in the lean, and a thin and delicate rind. There must be no green tint or disagreeable odor. Fish.^-Fish occupy a place midway between meat and vegetables. The red-blooded fish, such as the salmlon, are only slightly inferior to meat in point of nourishment. Firmness and good odor are the great tests for fish. Fish are unwholesome just after spawning; when boiled, the meat should be white. If there is a bluish tinge, or transparency after boiling, the fish are either not fresh or are out of season. LESSON X BUILDING FIRES One must be familiar with a range before one can control it. The dampers and drafts must be known, not only as to location, but their sev- eral effects upon the fire must be thoroughly understood. The time to learn all of this is when the range is cold and clean. There is al- ways a draft, or door below the fire to allow a plentiful supply of air to rush in and to feed the fire from below. There is also a controlling damper which shuts off the heat from passing up the chimneys, and throws the heat around the oven. , A third opening, or series of them, is placed above the fire-box and allows the air to pass over the fire, which has the effect of checking it. 1. A draft below the fire-box. 2. A damper in the pipe. 3. A check-draft above the fire. When the fire is started, or when one desires a low fire to burn up quickly, the draft below the fire-box must be wide open; the damper in the pipe must be in such position that free draft 131 132 THE COOKING SCHOOL up the chimneys is allowed ; and the check-draft over the fire must be closed. These several forms of drafts or dampers are present in every range, and there may be some slight modifica- tion of them, but the principle is always the same. After the fire has well started, and it is desired to heat the oven, the damper controlling the pipe or chimney must be closed. That will throw the heat around the oven. If the fire is burning too violently the lower draft is closed, the check-draft above is opened, and the chim- ney damper may be also closed. In laying a fire, see that the stove is cleaned of ashes and clinkers. Open the lower draft and the chimney damper; and close the upper check-draft. Place some crumpled pieces of paper in the grate-box first. Do not lay in sheets of paper tightly pressed together. Use plenty of paper if the wood is large, or damp. Let a piece or two of the paper pass down through the bars of the grate so that it may be easily ignited from below. It is also well tc place a large piece of wood at the back of the fire-box, and to place the finest pieces of kin- dling first on the paper in the front. If hard coal is to be used use plenty of wood, and wait until the large pieces are burning well. Then place a thin layer of coal on top of this. After this has ignited and is burning well, add more BUILDING nRES J33 coal. Do not fill the fire-box more than thr^e- quarters full. A heavily loaded fire-box will throw the heat to the top of the fire-box; will warp the top-covers and bars ; and will prevent a free draft over the top of the oven. Nothing is gained by this excessive and wasteful use of coal. After the fire burns well, close the lower draft and the chimney damper, and let the oven heat. Do not use kerosene or other explosive. If soft coal is used, it will ignite more quickly and easily than will hard coal. But it will also create more soot and dirt, which necessitates more frequent cleaning of the stove. The essential qualities of a goodrange are : 1. Simplicity of construction. This renders control of the fire easy, and affords fewer chances for getting out of order. 2. Plain finish. This enables one to keep it looking well, with little trouble. 3. Perfection in the fitting of parts. This facilitates the control of tbe fire, and also of the heat, thus saving fuel and regulating the heat of the oven. Do not be afraid to open the oven door and to look in to see how things are baking or roast- ing. Learn to do this quickly and quietly. In- deed, all of the movements about a stove must be done in this way. The best time to blacken a stove is after the 134 THE COOKING SCHOOL fire is laid, and just before lighting it. Moisten some stove-polish with cold water and apply to the stove with a " dauber." The blaeking must be rubbed in thoroughly, especially over the ' ' red spots. ' ' Then start the fire, and while it is burning up, polish the stove with the dry brush. LESSON XI SOUP STOCK Tbb Banking of stock, frequently looked upon Siy tht yoxmg houg©keieper as too intricate and tronblf acNcee to undertake, becomes as simple as vmny otiitr matters of cooking when divested of the seeming mystery surrounding it, a mys- tery arising only from the lack of a few explicit directions combined with the same amount of <3are and forethought necessary for the success in other departments of culinary art. Stock is simply the concentrated juices of meat, or fowl, estraeted by the process of long and gentle simmering. It is used as a nutritive basis for soup, and while there are certain rules to be followed, ingenuity and good judg- ment, combined with the ingredients at hand, will make it easy to produce a variety as ac- ceptable in the matter of soups as in the rest of the menu. Into the stock kettle many a little left-over of meat or fowl, or the bone of a steak or chop, should find its way. To the carcass of a fowl may be added a couple of pounds of veal with a S35 J36 THE COOKING SCHOOL good-sized knuckle of the same, for a white stock ; brown stock may be made from a combi- nation of meats and fowl. In the making of soups from stock, cooked vegetables, a little meat or vegetable hash, or even a bit of cereal left from the morning meal will add substance to the thick soup ; and all of these will contribute to the delicious flavor, in which no single one predominates, that makes the good soup so vastly different from its op- posite — the one indifferently seasoned or too weak. Stock may be made the same day it is used, but rather than attempt this it is better to make one of the emergency soups, for which direc- tions are given elsewhere. A number of these may be made without stock. For cooking stock, a steam-tight kettle is all- important, as it is necessary that there should be no waste by evaporation. If a soup digester is considered too expensive, a granite-ware or porcelain-lined kettle with a tight-fitting cover will answer every purpose. Do not use an iron kettle if it can be avoided ; besides being heavy to handle it rusts easily, and is more difficult to clean. Vegetables should not be added to stock if it is to be kept for long, as their juices cause it to ferment sooner. In summer, it will be neces- SOUP STOCK 137 sary to iDjing tte stock to a boil and skim it every day to prevent its souring. To prepare meats for stock, trim qiff all dried edges or useless bits, tHose that show any pos- sibility' of taint, or that have come in contact witi. rusty meat hooks. Rinse off the outside V(Sty quickly in' cbld trater and wipe with a clekii cloth. Bo not wash the meat after cutting it up; the inside is clean, and each tvashiiig will result in sonie loss of the juices, tlut the. meat in small pieces : crack or saw th,e bones to a,llow quicker and niore thorough extraction of the juices of the nieat and the gelatine of ttie bones. Thfe marrow should' be rethoved from tbe inside of the boiifes and pladM in the kettle' first ; then pack in the hieat aiid bones and cbver with cold watel* in the proportion of one quart of water' to one pound of meat. When cooked meats are to be used, carefully trim from the steak or roast any parts of fat or bone that have been burned in broiling or roasting, as these will give a bitter flavor to the stock. After adding the wa;ter to the meat knd bbhes, let it stand for half an hour or tnore to allow the juices to be drawn out bef bi'e heating; then ^Tlt the kettle over a slow fire alid bring the contents to a gentle simmer. Never let a soup boil rapidly, as the rapid boiling hardens the lO 138 THE COOKING SCHOOL outside of the meat and prevents the escape of the juices, while gentle simmering extracts the nutritive qualities. Do not skim the stock as the scum begins to rise. This scum is simply the blood and juices which at this stage of the cooking coagulate and rise to the surface; a little later it will disin- tegrate and be absorbed in the liquor; to skim and throw it away is to lose a portion of the very thing we are trying to procure — the nutri- tive elements of the meat. After simmering is well begun, add the sea- soning in the proportion of 1 teaspoonful salt to a quart of water, a half saltspoonf ul of ground White pepper, a celery root, or a tiny bit of celery seed, or the tops of celery — the leaves of celery, by the way, need never be thrown out, for if not needed at once they may be dried like any other savory herb, and put away for future use. Boiled in the stock, before straining, they serve the same purpose as the seed. Add a sprig of parsley, and if cloves or allspice are used, the whole ones are better, as they strain out, and the flavor is better than in the ground spices, how- ever pure they are supposed to be. In the city markets " soup bunches " may be had for a penny or two, consisting of a sprig of parsley, a small carrot, a young onion, and whatever savory herbs are in the market, but SOUP STOCK J39 the housekeeper is fortuaate if she can have her own parsley bed in her back yard, or a box of it growing on her back porch, as it is one of the most useful of seasonings and garnishings. A mixture of dried sweet herbs put up in bot- tles, to be found at first-class grocers ', is a con- venience, as it saves the trouble of measuring out each one separately. A teaspoonful of this to 1 quart of stock is the right proportion. When the. meat has cooked until reduced to shreds, or drops from the bones, leaving them clean, strain the stock into the stock-jar of earthen or stone ware. A rather fine strainer that fits the jar, or a colander into which a piece of cheesecloth is laid, should be used. Dip the stock from the kettle into the strainer, allowing it to run through without pressing or squeezing. By letting it stand a short time all the liquor will run through, leaving the scraps quite dry. These are of no further use. Stand the jar where the stock will cool quickly, and when cool put in the refrigerator ; the fat will rise to the top and form a cake hard enough to remove without trouble by running a knife around the edge of the jar. If a good proportion of bone has been used, the stock, when cold, will be a stiff jelly. The cake of fat on the top will help the stock to keep, by ex- cluding the air, and need not be removed at once. 140 THE COOKI NG SCHOOL as a portion of it may be cut and the necessary amount of stock taken out ; the remaining stock should be heated to allow the cake to form on the top again. When the fat is taken off it should be clarified with raw potato and added to the beef drippings for frying and sauteing. The stock thus made will be sufficiently clear for most soups, but it must be clarified if a very clear one is to be made. To clarify stock remove every particle of fat, beat the white of 1 egg for every quart of stoek, add this and the crushed shell of the egg to the stock while the latter is cold, mixing it in very thoroughly. Put it over the fire and stir con- stantly while heating, so that the egg will not settle. "When it has reached the boiling point, leave it to simmer for ten minutes ; a thick scum will then have formed. Take the stock from the fire and add half a cup of cold water, let it stand a few minutes and strain through a col- ander in which a fine napkin or othei* thin cloth wrung out of cold water has been laid. Do not pour the stock directly on the napkin or the scum will clog it, but let it first run through a fine wire strainer which will catch the scum and the shells. Either before or after clarifying, this stock is ready for an almost end- less variety of soups or consommes by the addi- tion of cooked vegetables, macai:oni, spaghetti SOUP STOCK J4I ov vermicelli, rice or barley ; or it may be used in gravies and side dishes. If dark soup is desired, it may be made by the addition of a little caramel or dark roux, or by browning some sliced vegetables or diced fresh, meat in better, and adding it to the stock. To make -a, white stock, use veal and chicken in about equal; parts ; follow the directions for beef in preparing the veal, cut up and joint the chicken as for stewing, and proceed as for the other stock, omitting in the seasoning, cloves, or any spices that will darken the stock, and using celery seed or celery salt and white pep- per. A fowl that is too old for serving in other W^-ys may be, used for chicken soup ; the long, slow simmering will sometimes be the only method of cooking a fowl that proves to be very tough. VEGETABLE SOUP 1 quart gtock; 1 cup tomatoes; 1 cup chopped potatoes ; % cup chopped onion ; % cup chopped celery; 34 c^P chopped carrpt; 1 quart boiling water ; % cup cooked corn ; % cup peas ; i/^ cup chopped turnip; 1 teaspoonful salt; % salt- spoonful pepper; 1 teaspoonful sugar; 1 bay leaf. Some of these vegetables may be omitted, and rice, barley, or vermicelli added. Cabbage and parsnips may be added, but as these are fre- IC THE COOKING SCHOOL quently objectionable it is well to use them only when the tastes of the diners are well known, or in such small quantities, finely chopped, that the flavor will be very slight. Cook the chopped turnip, onion, carrot, and celery for ten or fifteen minutes, drain off the water, and add these and the other vegetables to the stock and boiling water, simmer until tender, but not broken ; add the seasoning, and serve, JULIENNE SOTJP 1 quart stock; 1 pint vegetables same as in vegetable soup; 14 saltspoonful white pepper; 14 saltspoonful paprika; % teaspoonful salt. Cut the turnip and carrot into quarter-inch dice, or slice thin and cut any fancy shapes. Cut the potato in small dice, and the celery in thin slices. Cover the vegetables with boiling water, add the salt and boil long enough to cook tender without losing shape. Bring the stock to a boil, add the vegetables with the water in which they were cooked, season, and serve as soon as hot. TOMATO SOUP 1 quart stock; 2 cups stewed tomatoes (or 1 can cooked and strained) ; 1 teaspoonful sugar; 1 teaspoonful salt; 1 saltspoonful pepper. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper to the strained tomatoes, then add the boiling stock. SOUP STOCK J43 Serve with inch-scjuare croutons, well buttered and toasted in a hot oven. TOMATO AND GBBBN OOBN SOUP 4 medium-sized tomatoes; 4 ears of green corn ; 1 pint milk ; 1 pint water ; 1 small onion ; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 tablespoonful flour; 1 teaspoonf ul salt ; 1 saltspoonf ul pepper. Scald and peel the tomatoes, cut the corn from the cob, and mince the onion very fine. Cut the tomatoes in quarters and slice thin. Put in a saucepan with the boiling water and cook until tender, then add the milk and the flour and butter rubbed together; add the sea- soning, simmer gently until the flour is cooked. A pint of strong beef stock may be substituted for the mUk. SAGO SOXJP 1 pint chicken or other white stock; % cup sago ; 1 pint boiling water ; ^ cup good cream ; 1 teaspoonful salt ; i saltspoon white pepper ; 1 blade mace. Wash the sago and soak it for two hours in as much cold water as it will absorb, then add the pint of boiling water and salt and mace and boil until it is clear. Take out the mace, add the stock and pepper, let it boil up and simmer gently for a few minutes; add the hot cream, and serve. 144 THE COOKING SOiOOI .,0r use clear brown stock instead of white, ai)4 omit the cream. !,,..>,,, i, ,, , ... ,,, ,; . i^^j^j Use tapioca or rice instead of sago, soaking and cooking tBb tapioca until clear. If rice is u«©di wash thorougb^y, through se-s^eral, waters, aad cook in boiling water ten minutes, jthen,^44 the stock and 00pk slowly u^til .tlie rice is tender, Add more seaspttimg if nece^pary- ., .f , ^<^ SOUP . ; 1 pint milk; 2. eggs; .1 dessertspoonful flqur; iV^ teaspponful yanilla ;e,^^ra?j;; s^lt and, sugar to taste. .,,, ,., Boil; the juitk and ^dd the yanilla; mix.tlj,^ flour with a little, cpldi milk, ppur, it .inlq^.t^be feoiling milk and cook until; it thickens, , ,th^ strain. Eeturn it to the fire and add iihe slightly beaten yolks of the eggsy and the sugar, keep- ing if. well,stirr/ed. , Beat tbe whites of 1;he; eggs to a snow, and cook in a pan of , water ^ntij set. Send the sioup to. the table with this snpv floating on the top. Serve with very ,.thia Msenits. . , . ... ;/ . i Being very easily digested; as well as uour- kMng, this is a good nursery or sick-room soup. BEEF SOUP (FRENCH RtBTHOp) 3 Dounds lean beef: 1 large sMn bone ; 1 can tomatoes; 4 quarts- water; 2 teaspoonfels- siait: SOUP STOCaC 1145 1 large onion; 2 leeks; 1 dozen black pepper- corns; % dozen cloves; 1 bay leaf. Einse tbe meat in cold water and wipe with a clean cloth. Out it into small pieces ; remove all the fat ; have the bone well cracked ; cover with cold water, and heat very slowly. "When itfis boiling add the toiftatoes, leeks, the onion which has been fried, and the seasoning. Sim- mer slowly f oijr hours, then strain ; add 2 lumpe of sugar burned in a spoon, or a spoonful of caramel. Let it. boil up, then serve. LESSON XII GEAVIES AND SAUCES These may be considered together because they are closely related. Gravies are really a kind of sauce. They are the cooked juice of meat, sometiraes mixed with water and thick- ened with flour. They are either light or dark, according as the quantity of flour used is great or small. When gravy is to be thickened with flour, the simplest method is to first wet the flour with a little cold water and to rub it up with a spoon into a thin paste. More cold water is added until the liquid is thin enough to pour. Then it is stirred rapidly into the requisite amount of boiling water, so that all of the starch grains in the flour will burst at once and evenly. If boiling water be used to mix the flour with at first, the grains of starch will be unevenly affected. Some will burst, others will not; those that do not will form lumps. When a dark gravy is required, the flour is stirred into the meat juice in the pan and is allowed to brown sufl&ciently over the fire. If there is much fat with the juice, the gravy will 146 GRAVIES AND SAUCES J47 brown very rapidly, because the fat, when boil- ing, is very much hotter than boiling water. The boiling point of fat is higher than that of water. For this reason the flour is cooked much more thoroughly than is the case when water is used. Sauces are usually thought of as fruit prepa- rations to be eaten with dessert ; but the term is also properly applied to preparations of butter, eggs, and sugar, for puddings, and, indeed, to anything intended to give a relish to food. Meat juice, broth, fruit juice, cream, milk, water, may all be used in any cbmbination in making a sauce. Sauces are either white or brown, and, like gravies, may be of any consistency. They, top, are thickened with flour. In white sauces, the flour is cooked, but not browned. \ THICKENINGS FOB SAXJOES, GEAVIES, AND SOUPS Much depends on the manner in which thick- enings are made and blended with the dish in which they are used. They should always be perfectly smooth and of a rich, creamy con- sistency when added to the soup or sauce. If at all inclined to lumpiness, it is better to strain before attempting to combine them with the other ingredients ; the time required to do this will be less than must be consumed in trying to 148 THE COOKING SCHOOL make them smooth by after-beating or cookr ing. If flour is mixed with an equal quantity of butter there is no difficulty in rubbing it smooth, and by stirring into it a small portion of the cool broth, soup, or sauce, then adding it to the boil- ing liquid and stirring briskly, the desired smoothness will result; Flour and butter suffix cient for a week's use may be prepared before- hand, if it be kept in the refrigerator or some other cool place. If brown thidsening is required, the desired shade of color may be obtained by browning the flour and butter and cooking together until dark enough, stirring all the time, and taking care that it does not burn ; or roux or caramel may easily be kept on hand for this purpose. When eggs are to be used for thickening,^ they must be beaten very light and added very grad- ually to the sauce, and stirred briskly while it cooks just enough to thicken, but it must not be allowed to boil, for it is very likely to curdle. The egg should always be added just before serving. PUDDING SAUCES FOAMY SAUCE Whites of 2 eggs; 1 cupful sugar; 1 eupfal asilk, scalded ; juice of 1 lemon. GRAVIES AND SAUCES H9 Beat the whites of the eggs until foamy, but not stiff. Beat in the sugar, then the hot milk and lemon juice very slowly ; serve hot. BEOWN STTQAE SAUCE 1 heaping tablespoonful butter ; 2 tablespoon- fuls flour; 1% cupfuls boiling water; li/^ cup- fuls brown sugar; 14 teaspoonful nutmeg or cinnamon. Melt the butter, add the flour, cook and stir until smooth. Pour in the water gradually, and boil, stirring constantly. Add the sugar, stir until it melts, sprinkle in the spice, and serve hot. LEMON SAtJCE 1 cupful sugar ; 3 teaspoonfuls com starch ; 2 cupfuls boiling water ; juice and grated rind of 1 lemon; 1 tablespoonful butter. Mix the sugar and corn starch in a saucepan. Pour on the boiling water, stirring quickly, and boil and stir until the mixture is clear. When the sauce is to be served, stir in the rind, juic6, and butter. HAED SAXTCB 1^ cupful butter; % teaspoonful nutmeg; 1 tablespoonfttl lemon or fruit juice; % cupful pulverized sugar. Cream the butter, work in the sugar gradu- ally, and add the flavoring. Serve with a hot pudding. LESSON XIII BOILING Boiling food is the process of cooking it in a boiling liquid, usually water. Boiling water lias a temperature of 212°, and no matter how long it boils or how hard it boils, it never becomes hotter ; for at that point it is transformed by the heat into steam, and in time boils away. Boiling is marked by rapid bubbling and the breaking of the bubbles into steam. When, however, the bubbles are very small and break with only a slightvmotion, the water is said to simmer and the temperature is only 180°. When the water does not simmer or boil, yet is so hot that one cannot bear one's finger in it, it is scalding hot water. We put a cover over a vessel of boiling water to keep the steam in and so increase the heat. When we do this we observe that the steam condenses into drops of water upon the cover of the vessel. As steam changes back to water by condensing it gives up some of its heat, and in this way the heat is increased. A covered vessel of boiling water contains more heat than an uncovered vessel. 150 BOILING I5X Ordinary water contains certain gases and air dissolved in it. It is the oxygen in water which enables the fish to live beneath the sur- face. When, however, water is boiled, all of the air and gases are driven off. For this reason boiled water has a flat taste. Distilled water is insipid, and when used for drinking purposes is oxygenated,*. e.,has oxygen gas passed through it to revive it. Water that has boiled and afterwards stood for some time should not be used for cooking or drinking purposes. Careless housekeepers sometimes leave water in the kettle overnight and use it next morning after it has lost its freshness. If a vessel of boiling water is left uncovered, the water will boil away more rapidly than it will if covered. If the vessel is too full the water will boil over, since the water expands by heating, and the bubbles of steam occupy more space than did the water. Solid impurities: — salts and vegetable mat- ter — remain behind after the water has boiled away, and this, in time, leaves a crust upon the inner surface of the vessel. The chief food elements affected by boiling are the starch and the albumen., Cold water has no effect upon starch. It will mingle with it, but if allowed to stand, the starch will soon set- iS2 THE CCX5KING SCHOOL tie 1» the bottom of the vessel. If boiling water bQ poured upon finely ground starch those gran- ules which the water first touches will swell and burst, allowing the contents of each granule to mix with the boiling water. ; But those granules which the water does not reach will he un- changed, and the mass will be lumpy. If , how- ever, the starch be rubbed up with cold water to a consistency sufficient to permit the mass to yun, and it be then poured into boiling water, the granules will ajll burst, and aSithe contents mix with the water, a smooth, uniform mixture results. This applies only to those starchy foods used in the form of a fine powder. Sblid, compact, starchy foods should be put at onoe into boiling water. Starch in a raw* or uncooked state is not wholesome. When a starchy fodd is cooked the grains of starch; swell and burst. For this reason a cooked potato which contains much starch is mealy and flaky. Naw ' potatoes, do not become so oh boiling, as they contain -but very little starch. In potatoes which have been allowed to sprout, the starch is changed into gum and this renders them unfit for food. ■ Albumen is purest in the white of an egg^ in which it occurs . in; a liquid form. It is also found in meats, especially in the juices and fibres of lean meat; this is called blood albumen. BOILING 153 If an egg is put into boilipg water the white or transparent portion soon becomes opaque; it n^^itbecQfli^i tough; and, finally, hard or brit- ij\^ The yolk, too, contaws some albumen, which bqqona^ m^aly and dry in boiling. , When a piece of lean meat is placed in boiling •vy;af;er if, wijj.seem to shrivel, and dimii^isji. in size. AU of its juices will be, retained, and the w:ater wilj remain: clear and uncolored^ But if it be placed in :col4 water the latter will be dis- colored by the juices which have been soaked pnt- Tlio; water, as it becomes hotter, will as- sume a , brown, color. The cold water has ex- l^^C^.the juices from the meat, while the boil- ing watey hardened th© albumen, and closed the pores of the meat, thus preventii\g,the escape of the juices. If thi^ n^eat is to be boiled it must be put at once into boiling water, so as to cause it to retain the juices. B,ut;if soup or broth is to be TO^d^ by the extraction of the juices th» meat should be placed in cold water, and the water, should never pass the simmering point. Water containing salt or sugar is denser than ordinary water, ,cQi:\sqquently it is more difficult to bring it to a " boil. ' ' Soft water extracts the juices of the meat more ,rea^ly than does hard water. Hard water is be$t fqr boiling meat or vegetables. If . add the milk gradually to it, and stir it. into the fricassee. Boil five minutes, and serve. If desired, 2 potatoes, which have been parboiled five minutes, may be sliced and added to the fricassee after the meat. CHICKEN PEICASSEE : Clean a chicken thoroughly, Eemove the crop by pulling it out at the end of the neck. Tal^e out the lungs, heart, gizzard, and liver. Cleaa the gizzard, cu,t off the green galltbladder STEWING J65 from the liver, being careful not to break it, or tbe bitter juice will spoil the chicken. Cut off the legs and wings, and separate them at the joints. Cut the Chicken ;iato pieces about the size of the legs, and put all the pieces, with the heart, gizzard, and liver, into a kettle with 1 quart boiling water, 1 teaspoonful salt,, and a sprinkle peeper. Simmer one-half hour to each pound, of until tender. Eemove the chicken from the water, let the water boil, and mix 1 t9,t)legpdoiiful flour with enough cold water to make a smooth paste, stir it into the bbiling water, and boil five minutes. Brown the chicken in a little butter in a frying-pan, pour the gravy- over it, and serve on slices of toast, or with po- tatoes on the table. ' LESSON XV FRYING Frying is the process of cooking by immers- ing the food in hot fat— not using merely enough to keep the food from sticking to the vessel, but sufficient to wholly cover the articles of food. This requires a fairly deep kettle and a quantity of fat. It is not necessarily an ex- pensive process, as the fat may be saved and used over and over again. The fat used is clarified fat from fowl, suet, beef fat, and lard. It is prepared by saving all such uncooked fat and making it pure and clear. To do this, the fat is cut in small pieces, covered with cold water, and cooked slowly until it is melted and the water nearly all evaporated. It is then strained, and the scraps are pressed in order to get all of the fat out of them. It is then set aside to cool, and the fat will form a solid cake on top and the water will remain be- low and can be poured off. To this cake of fresh fat may be added dripping from roast beef, chicken, veal, or pork. Do not use the fat from turkey, ham, or mutton, as it is too strong i66 FRYING t67 and will impart a disagreeable taste to the food. As new fat is added, the whole mass should be melted, as by this means it is freshened. Fre- quent melting and straining will make it pos- sible to keep fat sweet and good for weeks. This mixture of several sorts of fat is an ad- vantage in frying; for if suet alone is used, it will cool too quickly and also give a strong flavor to the food. The very best fat for fry- ing is olive oil, but this, of course, has the great drawback of being too expensive for ordinary use. The fat must be absolutely free from water or moisture. Even the steam from a kettle must not be allowed to condense near the vessel, for the slightest moisture will cause the fat to boil over and take fire, with the possibil- ity of dangerous results. Keep all water away from boiling fat. Even under the most favor- able circumstances the process of frying re- quires very skilful manipulation to keep the fat from covering the stove, taking fire, or fill- ing the house with offensive odors. The process is also difficult, inasmuch as the fat that falls upon the stove gives rise to a smoke that is very trying to the eyes, nose, and throat of the oper- ator. In frying, the fat does not boil, but is merely hot. When we reflect that boiling water has a temperature of 212°, and boiling fat is between J68 THE COOKING SCHOOL 550° and 600°, we can rQa,dily understand th^t it is not necessary to boil the fat to produce he^ enpugli to cook th^s^f pod. The proper tempera- ture is about 375°. It is plain that f pod can, bp cooked in this way m]ich more quickly than :b35 bpiling the water. After the fat is put into the vpsaeland melted) the proper test, for the requi- site idfigree of heat is to place in. it, a slice; of potatp. I^ this browns in from forty to sixty second^, the fat is ready for use. If, too many pieces of meat, or other food are placed in the fat at the same time, th^y will reduce the tem- perature of the fat and retard the process. The object is tp keep the f^t at as steady, and unifpriji a temperature as possible. Sec that the pieces of food are dried before planjing in the wire basket, for immersion, as even the slightest moisture on the food will cause the fat to boil over and take fire. If, on immersion, the fat should threaten to boil over, merely raise the basket from the vessel, and it will subside. As soon as the pieces are browned, raise the basket and let it drip over the vessel. Gare must be taken to let the fat drip very thoroughly from the food; this may be facilitated by lightly shaking the wire basket. Then place the pieces upon a sheet of absorbent, unglazed, or un- sized paper to absorb the fat, and keep hot until served. FRYING J69 It must not be supposed that any of the fat enters the meat while it is cooking. The fat should be hot enough to close the pores and to harden the outer albumen so that no fat can enter. That degree of heat is determined as indicated above. When the cooking is done strain the fat into a vessel, and set aside for future use. There is room for economy in the way the fat is used. The fat will turn brown after it has been used several times. Brown fat should never be used in cooking potatoes, or doughnuts. When it is too brown for this purpose, use it for croquettes, and lastly for fish or fish-balls. If the pieces are crumbed before frying, see that all of the crumbs are strained out, else they will adhere to the vessel and burn. The chief foods to be fried are chicken, meat, oysters, croquettes, potatoes, fritters, doughnuts, fish, and fish-balls. If the pieces of meat are large, it is well to remember that it is possible for them to become brown be- fore they are cooked through. In the case of large pieces of food, it is necessary to set the kettle back from the intense heat of the fire so that the food may cook more slowly and thor- oughly. Cooked food such as croquettes, fish- balls, etc., and small fish, oysters, etc., do not take above one minute to brown. All food cooks more> quickly in hot fat than in any other 12 m THE COOKING SCHOOL ' way. When transfei^ring the basket from the kettle to the table see that no fat drips upon the stove or the floor. This can best be prevented by holding a tin plate under the wire basket. SAUTEING ^ , This is the ordinary method of frying in a shallow pan with just enough fat to keep- the article of food from burning or sticking to the pan. The food is browned on one side and therl turned. It is usually applied to omelets, frit- ters, cakes, and potatoes. In some households it is the only form of frying used ; bnt it is the most objectionable and injurious form. The food becomes thoroughly saturated with grease, besides losing the juices upon which the flavor and nutriment depend, and indigestion inevi- tably follows. The only essentials to success in this process are a hot griddle and a quick fire. Fried chicken is really sauted. The chicken is of course very tender. The pieces are wiped, dredged with flour, salt, and pepper, and are sauted in hot salt pork fat until browned. The chicken must not be burned. Butter, so com- monly used, is not a good medium for saute- ing, as it decamposee and becomes chemically changed at a low temperature. Oil is the best medium of all, but is expensive. Lyonnaise and hashed brown potatoes are sauted, not friedi ^. FRYING 171 LESSON EECIPES FOR FRYING PRIED POTATOES Cut cold wnite or sweet potatoes into slices. Put 1 tablespoonful dripping and 1 tablespbon- ful butter into a frying-pan. When the fat is smoking, put in enough potatoes to cover the bottom of the pan ; sprinkle on salt, and a very little pepper. When brown on one side, turn and brown the other side. Put on a hot dish while frying another panful. Many persons like a little onion juice sprinkled on the pota- toes, or some finely chopped parsley sprinkled over the slices while they are being browned. Use a level teaspoonful of butter and one of dripping for a small pan. TOMATOES 6 tomatoes; 1 tablespoonful flour; l^ tea- spoonful salt; sprinkle pepper; butter. Mix the flour, salt, and pepper, and put into a dredger. Cut the tomatoes in slices, without skinning ; shake the flour-mixture over the slices on both sides. Put enough butter into a frying-pan (1 tablespoonful) to cover the bot- tom when melted, and, when it bubbles, lay in the slices of tomato, and cook until done. Make a sauce by using the liquid remaining in the pan. Add to it ^ cup of milk or water and thicken. !72 THE COOKING SCHOOL EGG PLANT Remove the skin and cut into sUees, not more than one-half inch thick. Soak in cold salted water one-half hour and drain. Beat an egg, prepare some fine bread crumbs. Wipe the slices, dip them in the beaten egg, then in the crumbs. Put 1 tablespoonful butter or drip- ping in a frying-pan, and brown the slices on both sides in the fat. The egg plant may be fried in a bath of fat, which is the better way to prevent its absorbing fat; fifteen minutes is necessary to cook it suflSciently if saut^ed. TO FEY SCEAPPLB AND INDIAN MUSH Cut cold scrapple or mush into slices one- half inch thick. Melt one tablespoonful drip- ping in a frying-pan, and be careful to let it get smoking hot. Put in a few slices, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan, and fry them until brown. Turn them, and brown the other side. Lay the slices a moment on clean, brown paper to drain, and serve hot on a hot plate. Shake flour over the slices of mush before frying. Use no fat in frying scrapple. FRIED SAUSAGES Prick them all over with a fork and pour boiling water over them in a saucepan. FRYING J73 Let them come to a boil over the fire, then take them ont and wipe them dry. Have ready on the fire a frying-pan with enough hot fat in it to just cover the bottom. Put the sausages in before they grow cold. Turn and shake in the pan, while cooking, to brown them evenly and keep from bursting. When well browned they are done. They will require about ten minutes. FBIED HAM Cut ham into slices, one-quarter of an inch thick, if cooked; trim off the skin; sprinkle with a pinch of pepper ; have the frying-pan hot ; put in the slices of ham, and fry over a quick fire until the fatty part is nicely browned. For ham and eggs proceed as above, and when the ham is done take it out and keep hot. Then drop the eggs into the hot fat in the fry- ing-pan and cook until the eggs are firm. Take off the eggs and put one on each piece of the ham, which should be cut up. LESSON XVI BRAISING This is a combination of baking and boiling. It is especially recommended as a succ^ssfril method of cooking tbe inferior parts of meat; hence is economical. A special covered pan is used for the purpose. The meat is placed in the pan with some water or stock. The closely covered pan is then put in a well-heated oven. Herbs, onions, Carrots, bay leaf, and other seasoning are to be used to flavor insipid and tasteless meat. The process of cooking is slow, hence the meat will be ten- der when cooked. The juices which escape are taken up by the water or stock. The meat browns as the water evaporates. It is an effect- ive way of cooking tough meat, such as fowl, or beef, and also veal. The English braising kettle provides for the placing of hot coals upon the lid so as to entirely surround the food with heat. But this form is not necessary. A com- mon stew-kettle with tight-fitting cover answers admirably. A form of braising pan is known as a " roasting-pan," but as the process of roast- t74 :..- BRAISING m ing requires that a current, of iair shall pass over the food, it will be plainly seen that the name is not appropriate to a tightly , covered pan. I ^ LESSON RECIPES EOR BRAISING BRAISED BEEF — POT BOAST 3 pounds brisket; 1 pint boiling water; 2 even tablespoonfuls flour; 1% teaspoonfuls salt; 1 gill cold water ; 14 teaspoonful pepper. To Cook. — Wash the meat with a wet cloth ; trim and season it with the salt and pep- per. Put it into a very hot iron pot and set it on the stove where it will brown quickly. Turn it frequently. Cook the meat in this man- ner until thoroughly browned on all sides ; add a gill of boiling water, and draw the pot to a part of the stove where the contents will cook slowly for four hours. Add a gill of boiling water whenever the liquid in the pot becomes low. When the meat has been cooking three hours, mix the flour smoothly with the gill of cold water ; stir it into the pot ; add enough boil- ing water to make a full pint. Cook the meat an hour longer, then serve on a dish with a part of the gravy poured over it ; serve the re- mainder of the gravy in a gravy dish. It is very nice to substitute for the last water a quart J76 THE .CXXDKING SCHOOL of tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or in winter, a can of nice tomatoes, chopped fine. In both cases, take out the cores of the tomatoes. Any- inferior piece of beef will answer for this dish. LESSON XVII CASSEROLE This is a form of baking. It seems to alarm ih.e ordinary housekeeper on account of its for- midable name. But it is really a simple process and one that abundantly repays the slight trouble. A casserole is a covered dish of pottery de- signed to "withstand the intense heat of the oven. This is the term as applied to the form of bak- ing. There is also another form which is really a mould in which food is cooked and turned out and served upon a dish. The ordinary form of meat en casserole is as indicated, and the food is served in the dish. The meat or chicken, which must be tender, is placed in the casserole, together with vegetables which have been slightly browned, and a small quantity of stock. This is placed in a hot oven and allowed to cook for three-quarters of an hour, tightly covered. Potato balls or saute strips of potato and mushrooms are added, and the whole in the then uncovered dish is allowed J77 t78 THE COOKING SCHOOL to cook for fifteen minutes. It is then ready to be served in the casserole. LESSON RECIPES FOR CASSEROLE CASSEROLE OF BICE AND MEAT Boil 1 cupful of 1 rice till .tender (wash rice thoroughly). Chop very fine half a pound of any cold meat, season highly with salt and pfep- per (1/^ teaspbonfiir salt, i/^ saltspoohfltl of pepper; 1 spoonful celery salt; 1 teaspbiMfill finely chopped onion- 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley; 1 saltspoonful each thyme and marjo- ram). Add 1 beaten egg; 2 tablespooDtfuls of fine cracker ctumbs, and moisten with hot Wiater, or stock enough to pack it easily^ Butter a small mould, line the bottom and sides one-half an inch deep with rice, pa;ck in the meat in the centre, cover closely with rice, and steam forty mimitesi Loosen it around the edge of the mould ; turn it out on a ptatteir, and pour tomato sauce over it. Tomato Sauce. — '% can tomatoes; 1 cupful water ; 2 cloves ; 2 allspice ; 2 peppercorns ; 1 teiaspoonful of mixed herbs ;' 2 sprigs parsley; 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion;' 1 tablespoon- f nl butter ; 1 heaping tablespoonful of com starch; 1^ teaspoonful salt; % saltspoonful pep- per. Put the tomato, water, spices, herbs, and CASSEROLE J79 parsley on to boil in dish, not tin or iron; fry the onion in the butter till yellow; add the corn starch, and stir all into the tomato. Simmer ten minutes; add Sjalt and pepper and a little cayenne pepper,' and strain the sauce over the meat. \ LESSON XVIII BEOILING Broiling is the process of cooking by placing the food over hot coals. The first essential is to see that the meat is frequently turned. This is to prevent- it from burning, which it will do if left too long in contact with the intense heat. The second point to regard is the nature of the fire. The coals should be bright red and the stove well filled so as to bring the coals close to the meat. Care must be taken that the coals are red, for if flame is present the smoke and va- pors impart a disagreeable flavor to the food. If a wood fire is being used, the wood should be hard wood, and should also be burned to a good bed of coals without flame. It is a great mis- take to attempt to kindle up a poor fire with wood and to broil over the flame, not only be- cause the fire is not hot enough, but the flame and smoke will give the meat an unpleasant flavor. As the fat melts and drips from the meat it will take fire and either burn or taint the meat. There are two ways of obviating this: Cut off most of the fat, not all, for a little will 180 BROILING m baste the meat, and then see that the damper of the stove is open so as to carry the odor and smoke up the chimney. Meat is best broiled upon the double wii'e broiler. Grease the wires with fat ti> prevent the meat from sticking to them. The process will demand one's entire attention. As the meat requires frequent and rapid turning, it will be necessary to handle the broiler a great deal and very quickly. Therefore the handle should be protected by a cloth, or towel. Well- broiled meat contains all of the juices. Badly broiled meat is leathery, tough and dry. Clearly, then, the juices must be retained. To do this the meat is not salted, for salt draws out the juices. It is exposed for ten seconds to the hot- test portion of the fire, turned quickly, and the other side treated in the same way. This has the effect of searing the meat, so as to close the pores on the two sides so that the juices cannot escape. If the meat is left longer than ten seconds at first, the heat will drive the juices to the top, and when the meat is turned over they will escape. If the fire is not hot enough, or if the meat is too far away from the coals, the searing will not be sufficient to harden the out- side and the juices will escape. After the juices have been driven to the middle of the meat, the subsequent heat causes thebi to evaporate in 182 THE CCXDKING SCHOOL steam, and their expansion gives the meat the larger puffy look that well-broiled meats al- ways display. Consequently a good test for good broiling is to press the meat down with a knife point ; if it springs back to place it is well broiled. Badly broiled meat is shrunken and tough. It is a mistake to cut it to see if it is done, for that lets the juices escape. Four minutes for one-inch steak and six for one and one-half inch, over a hot fire, turning the meat every ten seconds, \p?11 give good results. In broiling there is one apparent contradiction. One would think that a small, thin piece of meat would require a slow fire or a distance from the' fire, and that a large, thick mece would require a hot fire and closeness to it. Just the reverse is the case. The smaller the article, the hotter the fire. The platter should be placed to heat before the broiling is begun, else the meat must be left to attend to it, and that is impossible if one wishes good results. \ In broiling chickens more time is required, ' probably twenty minutes. It is a good plan to place them for a few minutes in a very hot oven before broiling. Buttered paper is a good thing to use to keep in the fat and juices and to keep out the smoke. Practice is necessary to handle this skilfully to BROILING S83 keep the paper from burning, but care will ac- complish this. The paper ia white letter papeir of large' size. It is oiled with soft, butter well rubbed m^ The meat, such as chicken, chops, small birds^ or ifish, is wrapped, the edges of the paper 'turned in two or three; times j aad the ends well folded. It takes longer to broil with the paper than without it. When the paper is jwell browned the meat is don6. : Instead of using the double wire broiler, a hot frying-pan or spider niay be used. This is called pan-broiling. The pan is heated very hp*ti A little fat is used to prevent the meat fjrom sticking, but absolutely none is left on the pan. The meat is placed on the hot pan for ten seconds', then turned without a fork, and seared on the other side. It is broiled for four minutes, but turned only twice in that time, not so frequently as when broiled over the coals. This is not frying, because no fat is left in the pan. LESSON RECIPES FOR BROILING BROILED STEAK A thick tender steak, a double broiler, and a hot, clear bed of coals. Place the steak in the broiler and cook on one side ten seconds and turn. Eepeat this till the steak is done. If you J84 THE COOKING SCHOOL want it rare, three or four minutes will be suf- ficient. The number of times you turn must depend on whether you wish the steak rare or well done. Practice will soon determine this. Place the steak on a hot platter, cover with but- ter, season with salt and pepper, and serve hot. Or serve with maitre d 'hotel butter. If a gas stove is used, the broiler in the oven will be found quite equal to, if not superior to, the bed of coals. TIME-TABLE FOB BROILING One-inch steak, four to six minutes. Thicker than inch steak, six to twelve minutes. Thin fish, small, five to eight minutes. Thick fish, twelve to sixteen minutes. Chickens, twenty minutes. Chops, eight to twelve minutes. LESSON XIX BAKING This is the process of cooking in a close, heated oven. The essential difference between baking and roasting is that in the former proc- ess the air in the oven is unchanged through- out the entire time of cooking ; while in roasting there must be a current of air passing through the oven, taking the place of that air which passes off by ventilation. This difference, though slight, is essential. Yet the so-called " roasted " meat is most frequently only baked. There can be no comparison between the qual- ities of properly roasted meat and baked meat. In the latter process the outside of the meat is parched and hardened and the quality and flavor of the baked meat are much inferior to those of properly roasted meat. The essential principle in well-baked meat pr fish is to keep the juices within the article of food as far as possible. One step toward this is to put the meat in a pan with fat and without water, and place in the oven made as hot as pos- sible. The first few minutes in the hot oven will 13 }85 186 THE COOKING SCHOOL harden the outer surface and close the pores so that the juices will "be retained. If water is placed in the pan the heat can never rise above 212° — the temperature of boiling water, whereas the temperature foi* baking meat should be nearer 300°. After the hardening of the outer surface has taken place, water, may be added to keep the meat moist and supply liquid for frequent basting. The water will al^o serve to reduce the heat after the first step is taken!. The baking-pan should be raised above tlie surface of the bottom of the oven, because no heat is required there. If the dish is not pro- vided with legs or supports to so raise it, a tin pie-plate or inverted pan may be used for this purpose. It also serves to keep the flour. and fat from burning. As the baking proceeds, the meat is to be well basted every ten or fifteen minutes. A box, tie height of the bottom of the oven, from the floor, is very useful for sliding the pan out upon. While this is being done, the opening of ^ the oven doors allows the smoky odors to esc3,pe. If allowed to remain in the oven; they taint the cooking food with the pronounced baking odor so objectionable to a refined palate. After each basting the meat is tb be dredged with flour, salt, and pepper.' Salt has'the efEect BAKING fS7 of drawing out the juices from meat, but as these mix with the flour, a hard paste is formed over the entire surface of the meat, which keeps them in. As the meat is. placed in the pan with the skin side down and the juices do not escape through it, there is no loss, as there would be if the meat were reversed. As the process nears complietion the meat is turned over, without the use of a fork, for the final browning. LESSON RECIPES FOE BAKING BAKED SALT MACKEREL Soak mackerel overnight, boil in water enough to cover, five or ten minutes; pour off water, put mackerel in pan, pour over it 1 ctip- f ul of sweet cream or rich milk, add a few lumps of butter, a little pepper, put in oven, and bake till brown. BAKEP PISH Have your fish dressed for baking, then make a stuffing of bread crumbs; 1 teaspoonful of sweet marjoram; V^ teaspoonfuls salt; 1 slice of fat salt pork, chopped fine ; pepper, and piece of butter size of large egg; 1 small onion. Mix this well together and stuff the fish. Either sew the fish together or sew a piece of cloth over the opening; place in the pan and lay slices of salt pork on the fish. Bai^e one hour. LESSON XX ROASTING Roasting is the process of cooking food be- fore a hot fire or in an oven well ventilated so that a current of air passes over and around the article which is being roasted. The term is properly applied to cooking before a fire upon a spit. But this method is possible only in large establishments ; and the term is now generally applied to the cooking in a pan in a well-venti- lated oven, such as is provided in all good ranges. If there is no ventilation and the pan is covered, the process is not roasting, but baking. The fire must be very hot and of suflScient quantity to last throughout the process without replenishing. The pan in which the meat is placed must be provided with a rack so that the meat does not rest upon the bottom of the pan, but is supported a little above it. The meat should first be properly fastened with skewers. If it is a sirloin, and there is a piece of the flank attached, cut it off and keep it for soup. If, however, it is required for use, fasten it by 188 ROASTING S89 turning it under the roast. If the meat is very lean, put a little dripping in the pan. If the meat has fat upon it, this will not be neces- sary. The fire should be very hot when the meat is first put in the oven. The first step in the process is the melting of the fat upon the meat. Then the great heat closes the pores of the meat and hardens the outer albumen, which keeps in the juices of the meat, and causes it to roast well. -The meat should be place m the pan with the skin side down, as this exposes the lean parts of the meat to the action of the fire first. After the process has gone on long enough to close the pores of the meat, the fire is to be regulated and lessened so that the iur terior of the meat may be well enough cooked before the outside burns. When the outside has hardened, the interior of the meat is prac- tically steamed in its own juices. If a slow fire is used, it will be found that the juices of the meat will be converted into steam and will evap- orate, leaving the meat very dry. As the greater part of the meat is water, a poorly cooked piece of meat will shrink greatly in the cooking. This, then, may be taken as a sort of test of the kind of cooking the meat has had. The loss of juices is in a measure supplied by the process of basting. This consists of pour- ing back over the meat the fat and juices which 190 THE COOKING SCHOOL collect as dripping in the pan. This basting serves also to cover the meat with a coating of fat, which aids in keeping in the juices. The meat must, of course, be turned; frequently, so as to expose all parts of it to the action of the fire. The meat is also to be dredged twice with pepper and salt. When the meat is nearly cooked, flour is to be added, to make with the fat and juices a brown gravy. Should there be any d, iger of this burning, the addition of a little water will prevent it. Allow ten minutes to the pound if it is to be rare, and fifteen if well done. If the roast is thin such as ribs, it will require a less time than a compact rump roast, and a large rump roa,st will take a relatively longer time than will a small one. In a rib-roast the ribs and backbone are re- moved, and the roast is tied or skewered into a compact round form. This will take a longer time to cook than if the bones were left in; but it cooks and carves much better. LESSQN RECIPES FOR ROASTING EOAST BEEF A steady, moderate fire is required, to start withj to roast beef properly. After the meat- is thoroughly warmed the oven should be made hotter. ROASTING m The first thing is to sear the surface of the roast in order to keep in all the juices. To do this, you must proceed as follows: "Place the roast with the skin-part on t6p into your pan and pour a couple of cups- of slightly salted boiling water over it. Then close the oven and leave it closed for about twenty minutes. Then baste it all over by tak- ing a loilg-handied spoon and wetting every part thoroughly with the salted water in the bottom of the pan. This should be repeated every fifteen minutes. Time for roasting is twelve minutes for each pound. A few don 'ts and rules will help the pupil to acquire the knack of doing a roast just; prop-, erly. ;•- , , When basting don't hold the oven door wide- open. Open it only enough, ito allow yourself to reach in and easily " baste " it. If one side of the roast browns more quickly than the other, turn the pan in the oven. If the water dries up before it is sufficiently done, add another cupful of hot water from the kettle. When more than half done sift a little flour over the roast, leaving it in the oven. Let this brown before renewing the basting operation, and then proceed as before. About five minutes later rub a teaspoonful of 192 THE COOKING SOiOOL butter over the top of tlie meat. This will, if your oven is right, cause a brown froth to cover the roast. When done place on a heated platter, and keep warm. GBAVY Scrape the sides and bottom of the meat-pan and gather the browned flour towards the cen- tre. If there is not enough, sift a little more flour into it. Also add a little more hot water, if necessary. Then stir until you have a thick gravy. Add salt and pepper to suit the taste. Mutton is roasted the same way as beef. Currant jelly generally takes the place of gravy. Lamb is roasted two minutes less to the pound than beef. Mint sauce is generally served in place of gravy. Roast veal must be cooked twice as long as lamb or beef. LESSON XXI STEAMING This is a process of cookery which is particu- larly adapted to very delicate preparations. It is sometimes carried on upon a large scale, and then an apparatus for the special purpose is provided. In ordinary kitchens, and for every- day dishes, a kitchen steamer will be all that is required. The article of food which is to be steamed should be prepared as for boiling. It should then be placed in a steamer, which has a closely fitting lid, over a saucepan containing boiling water, and this water should be kept boiling, and should be replenished as it boils away. When any delicate preparation is to be steamed, the cook should on no account boil anything strong and highly flavored in the ves- sel under it. For instance, liquor containing vegetables must not be boiled under a pudding, or the flavor of the latter will be entirely spoilt. If a proper steamer should not be at hand, a substitute may be improvised for steaming pud- dings, etc., as follows : Turn a plate upside down in a saucepan, and surround it with about three J93 194 THE COOKING SCHOOL inches of fast-boiling water. Place the mould containing the pudding on the plate, cover the saucepan closely, and keep the water gently boil- ing round it. Lay a round of oiled paper on the top of the mould. This process is especially adapted for tough meats, fruit cakes, hams, etc. It involves more time than boiling. Many of the vegetables such as squash, corn, beans, peas, and cucumbers may^ be 'treated hy this method. There is no danger of burning, if this rhethbd is used for cooking cereals or making custards. LESSON RECIPES FOR STEAMING OATMEAL Take % cupful of oatnieal, 2 cupfuls of boil- ing water, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Go over the meal carefully to see that there is no foreign substance, then put in with the salt and water into the upper part of your steamer. Put the upper part of steamer over the fire, stir- ring the contents with a fork. When it has boiled for ten minutes, put it over boiling water in the lower part of your "steamer" and cook for one hour. , . BOILED CUSTAED Icupful scalde(imilk; 1 teaspoonful of sugar; 1 egg, and of flavoring 1/2 teaspoonful. . , , , , First beat the egg iiatil frothy, then add to STEAMING J95 it the sugar and a pinch of salt. After mixing well, add the scalded milk and put over boiling water. Stir until it thickens. Then strain, and when it is cool put in the flavoring. ■ i •: • . , STEAMED APPLES ; ^ Wipe, core, and pare sufficient apples. Then place them in a steamer, and steam until they are soft. STEAMED POTATOES Take a. suificient quantity^ of potatoes ; wash and pare them. Put them into your steamer, and let them cook until they are soft. LESSON XXII ' MIXING BATTERS AND FEITTERS Floue and a liquid are miled in the propor- tion of rather more of the flour than of the liquid. If a cup is used as the basis of measure- ment, a cupful of flour would be used to rather less than a cupful of liquid. It is not suf- ficient to merely put the flour and the liquid together. If baked in this way, the product would be heavy and solid and hard. It is necessary to make it light; and this is done either by stirring or beating. The effect of this treatment is to mix in bubbles of air. Sometimes soda is used to generate bubbles of gas. The mixture then must be cooked quickly before the air or gas has time to escape. In a cooked mixture the air or gas spaces are larger than when it was in the state of batter. This is because the air at the ordinary temperature oc- cupies about one-third the space to which it will expand when heated in the oven while the mixture is cooking. It is of the greatest importance to see, before the batter is mixed, that the fire is in a suffi- 196 MIXING BATTERS AND FRITTERS 197 ciently good condition to bake the batter quickly, else it will be heavy and unfit for food. It is also necessary to have the pans ready, so that no fatal delay occurs. Have this all seen to before beginning to mix. "We stir to mix intimately two or more ma- terials. If the matter used be dry, stir round and round in the mixing bowl until the ingredi- ents cannot be distinguished from each other. If a liquid is stirred into a dry ingredient, do not put all the liquid in at once, but add it slowly and at intervals, stirring slowly so as to avoid spattering. Slow addition of the liquid will prevent the mixture from being too thin. Do not stir with the edge or the tip of the spoon alone; the bowl of the spoon is most effective in stirring, because it breaks up the lumps and makes a smooth batter, which is the desired re- sult. A mixture of flour and water makes a thickening for sauces or gravies. Flour, butter, and milk form a sauce when stirred and cooked together. Eggs, doughs, and batters are beaten, not stirred. The object is to make them light, and to introduce bubbles of air ; these are held more firmly by the albumen of the egg and the gluten of the flour, which are sticky substances. So long as we beat rapidly the bubbles form and remain; but if we beat and stir together, the stirring motion breaks down all of; the bubbles J98 THE COOKING SCHOOL formed by the beating. The mixing bowl is tipped over to the side and the spoon is carried through the mixture from side to side and reaching the bottom of the bowl at each strok^. It has been said before that the fire must be hot for cooking batters; But if it is too hot, the bubbles of air are too suddenly and violently ex- panded so as to break through the mixture and escape. As a consequence the mixture falls and becomes heavy. Batters are cooked in well-greased vessels. The fat heats very quickly and rapidly cooks the outside, forming a crust. By a well-greased griddle is meant one in whiieh the fat is evenly distributed over the surface. It does not mean the use of a great quantity of fat. Care should be taken not to use more fat than 'is required. If eggs and butter are used in a thin batter, much fat will be needed. If more fat than is necessary be used it is absorbed by the food, which is thereby rendered unwholesome. LESSON RECIPES FOR MIXING GBIDDLE CAKES 1 teaspoonful baking-powder; 1 cupful flour; 14 teaspoonful salt; 1 cupful milk, scant; 1 egg; % teaspoonful butter, melted. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour to- MIXING BATTERS AND FRITTERS I?> gether. into a bowl. Beat thq egg, add the milk to it, and stir it gradually into the dry in- gredients, to make at smooth batter. If the butter is used, melt it, cool it, and stir it into the batter. Scrape it into a pitcher, or dip it from the bowl with a tablespoon, to form round cakes. Place an iron or soapstone grid- dle over the' fire, grease it with a little dripping. When the fat begins to smoke, pour on a little of the batter from the pitcher or dip it out with a tablespoon. Put on the griddle about seven Cakes, if the utensil is large enough. When the Cakes are full of bubbles^ turn them over with a brosid knife, so that both sides may be brown. Serve on hot plates with syrup; or but- ter and sugar, or place them in layers with but- ter, sugar, and cinnamon between, and cut like a pie: By using % cupful of corn meal, rye, Graham, or bread crumbs, instead of % cup of the flour^ in this recipe, varieties of griddle cajjes may be made. By adding to this recipe % cup cold boiled rice, hominy, wheatena, oatmeal, or canned corn, still farther variations may be de- veloped. POPOVBES 1^ teaspoonful salt; 1 cupful flour; 1 cupful milk; 1 egg. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Beat the 200 THE COOKING SCHOOL egg, add the milk to it, and stir gradually into the flour to make a smooth batter. Beat with an egg-beater until full of air-bubbles. Fill hot, grieased gem-pans two-thirds full. Bake on low- er shelf of a quick oven, until brown and pop- ped over. Break one open to see if it is firm, and not doughy. Serve hot with butter, as a break- fast muffin. By adding % teaspoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful sugar, and a sprinkle of grated nutmeg, the popovers are eaten as sweetened tea-muffins. They can be served with a hot pudding sauce, as a dessert, and are then called German puffs. When they puff up, a hollow space is usually left in the centre. This may be filled with a thickened custard, and they will make very good cream puffs. CBEAM FILLING 1 cupful milk, scalded ; 1 egg ; 1 tablespoonful sugar, sprinkle salt; 1 tablespoonful corn starch; sprinlde nutmeg, or i/4 teaspoonful flavoring. Beat the egg, add the sugar and salt, pour into the mixture 1 tablespoonful of cold milk. Stir into the corn starch to make a smooth paste Pour in the scalded milk, and stir it well. Cook the mixture in the double boiler, stirring con- stantly for ten minutes. Put the cuetard (when qpld) into the popovers, or into cream puffs. MIXING BATTERS AN D FRITTERS 20t CARAMEL SYRUP Put 1 cupful granulated sugar into a frying- pan. Stir it over a moderate fire until it is melted into a light-brown liquid. Eemove from the fire and pour into it % cupful of boiling water. Heat and stir until tlie water melts the clear, hard candy. Pour into a pitcher, and serve hot or cold with griddle cakes. H LESSON XXIII LAEDING, BLANCHING, BONING LARDING Lauding is performed by introducing fat strips of meat, ham, and bacon into poultry and meats wMcb are naturally dry and devoid of flavor. The meats which are usually so treated are turkey, rabbits, veal, and chickens. The lard- ing meat is cut into thin strips and is inserted at intervals of about an inch in the breast of the fowl or over the surface of the meat, by means of a larding needle. This is a short, thick needle with an opening or slit, controlled by a spring, into which the strips of bacon are inserted. They are practically sewed into the meat. A portion of the meat to be larded is pinched up and the needle forced through. When the strip of bacon is forced through by the needle the charge of larding meat is released from the needle. Then the needle is withdrawn. Under the heat of the fire the fat tries out and bastes the fowl, rendering the meat juicy, and at the same time imparting a flavor. Meat when so treated is described on the menu as pique. 202 LARDING, ELANCHiNG, BONING 203 BLANCHING To blanch meat or vegetables is to plunge tbem into boiling water for a given length of time, generally two or three minutes; then throw them into a bowl of spring water and leave them until cold. With meat this is done for the purpose of giving firmness to the flesh, and thus facilitating the operation of larding, and also to preserve the whiteness of certain meats, such as rabbits or fowls. With vege- tables it is done to keep them green, and to take away their acrid flavor. Ox tongues and almonds, fruit kernels, etc., are said to be blanched, when through the action of hot water the skin can be easily peeled off; calves' heads and feet are blanched to soften them, and thus make them easier to trim. BONING This is a method of treating fowl so as to re- move the bone, or carcass, from the flesh, and yet to leave the flesh in its original form. To those to whom even carving is a hardship this may seem a difficult task. In boning a chicken, make an incision from the neck to the rump of the fowl, down the back ; cut the neck off short ; take out the crop ; pull the skiu well back to the wings ; dis- 204 THE COOKING SCHOOL joint the wings under the skin; clear the whole body down to the legs; draw back the legs so as to expose the joints and cut the ligaments; peel the flesh-skin off to the tail ; cut through the ' ' tail piece ' ' inside of the skin ; and then turn the carcass out. The shape of the fowl is then preserved by proper stuffing. Other fowl are boned in the same way. • LESSON RECIPE FOR BONING BONED SHOXTLDEE OF VEAL Place a clean cloth upon the table, and upon this lay the veal, skin side down. A sharp, strong knife is needed. Cut off the flesh on the inner side nearly down to the blade-bone; de- tach the edge of this first ; then work the knife under it, keeping close to it. Care must be used not to pierce the outer skin. When the bone is separated from the flesh in all parts, disjoint it with the knife, and withdraw it. Then take out the second joint in the same way. With a little practice the two parts of the bone may be withdrawn without separating them. The knuckle-bone is, of course, left in. The greatest care is required that during the operation the outer skin be not pierced or broken. The meat is then ready for stuffing. LESSON XXIV BEVERAGES COFFEE, TEA, AND COCOA Beverages are made and used for the purpose of quenching the thirst ; and whether it be tea, coffee, chocolate, or any other beverage, it is really the water contained in them which quenches the thirst. Therefore, pure water is best adapted to quenching the thirst. LESSON RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES COFFEE The coffee bean or berry is the seed of the coffee plant, which grows in tropical countries. It contains tannin and theine (called caffeine in coffee) ; the caffeine acts as a pleasant and stim- ulating tonic : the tannin is inclined to interfere with the digestion if taken in too large quanti- ties. The flavor and odor of coffee come from the oils contained therein. Coffee of moderate strength seems not to be harmful to any great extent to adult persons, when taken in reason- able quantities, but should not be given to chil- 205 206 THE COOKING SCHOOL dren, because it -prevents the bodily tissues from wearing out. to a certain extent, and chil- dren, who are growing, require a constant renewal of all parts of their systems. It stimu- lates the nerves and relieves fatigue. Much of the prevalent bad health comes from the exces- sive use of coffee. There are many good sub- stitutes for coffee, made of various roasted grains, which, while not so powerful in their tonic effects, supply an ample beverage, and are harmless to children, and wholesome. Coffee should be purchased roasted, but un- ground; and should be ground as used, as it loses its flavor very rapidly after bteing ground. It should always be kept in an air-tight recep- tacle. The coffee-pot should be thoroughly cleaned and scoured each time after it has been used. For the black after-dinner or filtered coffee have it powdered. It should be finely ground when making boiled coffee. To make good boiled coffee use 1 tablespoon- ful of coffee to each cup of boiling water, regu- lating this by the number of ^ups desired. Put the coffee into the pot; pour the water in, and let it come to boiling point. Then stir into it a slightly beaten egg ; boil for one minute, and set on a part of the stove where it will keep per- fectly hot witho.ut boiling. BEVERAGES 207 HOW TO MAKE AFTEB-DINNEB -COFFEE For this purpose a French coffee-pot is best. The coffee, to be strong, should be in the sanie proportions — '1 tablespoonful o^f coffee to each cup of boiling water. After putting the coffee into the filter, pour over it into the pot the boil- ing water. Put the pot in hot water and when the water has all filtered through, pour it into the filter again. TEA The. principal value of tea is the one sub- stance contained in it — theine : this is stimula,t- ing and pleasant, when not taken in excess and when the tea is made right. Tea also contains tannin, a bitter substance used for ink-making, and also for tanning leather. Hoiv to Make Good Tea. — ^Use only good tea; it is expensive, but cheap teas are likely to be adulterated, and good tea is economical in the end. It should be kept in an air-tight canister or jar, otherwise it will rapidly lose its flavor. Use only a china, earthen, or silver teapot. Boil the water quickly and use it only at that point and in a hot teapot. It should be steeped about five minutes. You should never allow it to boil. Take from 1 to 3 teaspoonfuls of tea to 2 cup- fuls of boiling water. Scald the pot first, and 208 THE CXXDKING SCHOOL when you have the water boiling, put the tea into the pot and let it steep for three to five minutes. If you find it too strong, you can weaken it by adding hot water, but in doing this the water should be almost at the boiling point. COCOA AND CHOCOLATE Cocoa and chocolate are products of the seeds of the cocao tree, which grows in the tropi- cal countries of America. Cocoa for our break- fast beverage is produced by extracting, under powerful pressure applied to cracked , cocoa beans, the greater percentage of its fatty sub- stances, and then powdering. The fat so se- cured is cocoa butter. Cocoa differs from tea and coffee as a beverage in that with the former we drink the powdered product itself, while in the case of tea and coffee we leave the leaves and grounds at the bottom of the pot. BREAKFAST COCOA For this we need 1 pint of scalded milk; 1 piut of boiling water ; 2 tablespoonfuls of pre- pared cocoa; from 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Mix the cocoa and sugar, then gradu- ally stir in the water and let it boil for five minutes, then put in the milk, and cook for five minutes more. Beat with an egg-beater. LESSON XXV VEGETABLES Potatoes contain a very large proportion of water. Tlie solid part is only about one-quar- ter of the bulk of tbe potato and is largely starch, with a small quantity of albumen and salts held in solution in the water. There is very little starch in new potatoes. Starch is not formed until the potatoes ripen. The chief point to be observed in cooking potatoes, and indeed all vegetables, in water, is to see that as little as possible of the nutritious elements are lost in the process. In the case of potatoes there is much difference of opinion as to whether or not they should be pared before cooking. There is no doubt that it is much more convenient to peel them when hard and cold than when soft and hot. Besides, they are more easily and daintily served. But some con- tend that there is a quantity of earthy matter or salts immediately under the skin, which is lost in pariag. If a potato is boiled without paring at all, the starch grains swell and the skin of the po- 209 210 THE COOKING SCHOOL tato bursts. For this reason a circle of the skin is pared even when they are cooked with their jackets on. As potatoes are subject to disease, the affected parts are more easily removed by paring before cooking, and this prevents the ab- sorption of bitter juices during the process. The salts which are lost in cooking the pota- toes when pared are supplied in the form of salads, green vegetables, and fruits. If pota- toes are not pared before cooking, they must be well scrubbed, so that no earthy matter may adhere. When the potatoes are new, the skin is removed by scraping instead of paring. After the potatoes are pared they must either be put on at once, or, if it is necessary to keep them standing, they must be covered with water. Pared potatoes left without water turn brown by reason of the action of the oxygen of the air upon them. They must be put on in boiling water, because cold water has the power of extracting the al- bumen and other nutritious matter, while boil- ing water hardens the albumen cells and no matter is lost. The water ought not to boil violently, for that will cause the potatoes to burst and break up. Salt is added not to give the potatoes a flavor, for that is best done at the table to suit the varying individual tastes, but salt raises the VEGETABLES 2Jl boiling point of the water. This means that salt water gets hotter than fresh water before it boils. Consequently it reduces the danger of loss of salts and other matter. As soon as a fork passes easily through the potatoes they must be taken up at once. Then they are drained, and the cover must be left off, for much water remains in the form of steam and must pass off in that form, else, when the vessel cools, the steam will condense into water and the potatoes will be wet instead of dry and mealy. Potatoes must be selected nearly of one size to produce uniformity in cooking. It takes large potatoes longer to cook than small ones ; so, if the potatoes are not nearly of equal size, the small ones will be overdone while waiting for the larger ones to cook. A large potato may be cut in two to make it cook more quickly. All vegetables should be washed very quickly, as the cold water will, if allowed to act long upon them, extract valuable nutritious ingredi- ents. The following vegetables should be well scrubbed before preparing : Potatoes, parsnips, carrots, turnips. Beets are to be washed carefully, so that the outer coat be not broken. They are full of sugary juice, which escapes if the skin be broken. For 2J2 THE COOiaNG SCHOOL th.e same reason, the tops are not cut off too closely before cooking. In selecting beets, do not accept any that are not fresh. The same rule applies to all vegetables. Do not take them if they are shrivelled or wilted. If such must be used, putting them for a little while in cold water will freshen them. There are several va- rieties of table beet, which differ very much in size, color, shape, and sweetness. The small red and the long yellow are the best varieties. When the beet is cooked, it is only necessary to cut off the skin, not to peel the beet. If the beets are young and small, slice them length- wise ; if large, slice them round. Hot beets are not healthy, if eaten in large quantities. They should be served cold, in vinegar. Parsnips have the advantage not only of being wholesome and nourishing, but are in season both summer and winter. In the spring months, when other vegetables are scarce, pars- nips are plentiful. As they are biennials they are left in the ground during the winter, even in the most severe climates, and are dug in the spring. Great care must be taken in cleaning and preparing parsnips for cooking. The flesh is very white, but darkens on boiling. Every particle of speck or blemish must be removed by scrubbing and cutting, and the fine roots must be trimmed off. Parsnips take from VEGETABLES 2J3 twenty mimites to one lionr to cook, according to the season of the year and the size of the vegetable. All vegetables take longer to cook in winter than in summer. If the parsnips are small, they may be cooked whole; but if large, they must be sliced down the middle. Carrots must be scrubbed, and the outer skin scraped off. They take from one to two hours to cook. Turnips should be first scrubbed, then sliced and pared. Select only medium-sized turnips, as the larger ones are more likely to be spongy or woody. Small young turnips require from fifteen to twenty minutes in cooking; large ones up to a full hour. Cabbage requires great care in preparation, as it- ia the home of insects and worms. They are best removed by cutting off the outer leaves and soaking the inverted head in cold water. It is then cut in quarters and boiled. Cabbage takes about forty minutes to boil. It must be thoroughly done, for imperfectly boiled cabbage deranges the stomach and causes flatulency. It is of doubtful value as nourishment, but is a pleasing addition to a meal. Cauliflower may be treated the same as cab- bage in its preparation. Celery must be separated, thoroughly washed, 214 THE COOKING SCHOOL and all rusty parts scraped off. The heart is the best of the stalk; the outer portions are tough and stringy. The tops, when green, are of value for garnishing, and for seasoning soup when green or dried. No green parts must be served. After cleaning it is best kept in cool water, to preserve its crispness until served. When used for salad, the pieces must be wiped dry. Spinach is a type of greens. It must be carefully picked over and washed in several waters. This is necessary to remove the par- ticles of sand and grit. As it is a low-growing plant, heavy rains splash the leaves with earth and sand from the garden, and the heat of the sun afterwards drieS it on, so that there is great difficulty in washing it clean. Unless all is removed before cooking, the dish is ruined. After boiling until it is thoroughly tender, the spinach is drained and the water pressed out so as to leave it as dry as possible. Onions are prepared by peeling so as to re- move all of the dried or withered parts, and then soaking in cold water to remove the excessive strength, or other objectionable qualities. Green corn is prepared by husking, but is not to be washed. Care must be taken to re- move every particle of corn silk, for while it is not objectionable in itself it is horribly suggestive of hairs. Corn should be pro- VEGETABLES 2J5 cured as fresh as possible, for even on the second day after picking it loses much of its flavor and becomes hard to digest. It takes from ten to twenty minutes to cook, according to size and age. Peas and beans are to be shelled and washed very quickly. Care must be taken to discard the wormy or rusty portion of these. String beans are prepared by breaking off both ends, removing the strings, and cutting or breaking the bean into short pieces. After cooking until quite tender, which takes from forty to sixty minutes, they are well drained and seasoned. Asparagus is simply prepared by cutting off the lower part of the stalk, which is tough; though this may be saved as an agreeable sea- soning to soup. The asparagus is then soaked in water for about a quarter of an hour. Then it is tied in a loose bundle, using a soft string, so as not to cut through the tender sprouts. About twenty minutes will suffice for cooking asparagus, if it is tender. LESSON RECIPES FOE VEGETABLES BAKED POTATOES Choose potatoes of the same size. Put them into cold water, and scrub thoroughly with a s^all vegetable brush. Cut out any black por- 216 THE COOKING SC HOOL tions. Lay them on the grate of a hot oven, and bake them until soft. Try, by taking hold of one with an oven towel, and pressing it in the hand. A small potato usually reqtiires twenty minutes, a medium-sized one thirty minutes, and a large one forty minutes. When done, crack each one open a little in the centre, to let the steam escape, and serve in a hot dish, covered only by a folded napkin. If any are left from the meal, peel them at once, so that -they may not become watery or have an un- pleasant taste. CBOUTONS Cut stale bread in slices one-half inch thick. Cut off the crusts, and divide the slices into one-half inch cubes. Place them on a tin sheet, and bake them until golden brown. Serve with soups and stews, or as a substitute for sliced toast. BEEAD CRUMBS Break stale bread into >small pieces, put then! into a shallow pan, and set it in a moderate oven. When thoroughly dry, roll or pound the bread to a fine powder. If wished very fine, sift, and roll coarse crumbs a second time. The crumbs are used in making stuffings for meats, in puddings and griddle cakes, and in covering fried food, such as oysters. VEGETABLES 2J7 SOUTHERN SWEET POTATOES Cut cold cooked sweet potatoes into slices, and put them in an earthen dish. Spread each layer with hutter, sprinkle slightly with sugar, and bake until hot and slightly browned. BEOWN POTATO BALLS Mash and season cold baked or boiled pota- toes, or use cold mashed potato. Roll the potato mixture into balls, or pat into flat cakes. Place on a buttered tin, put a small piece of butter on top of each, and bake on the grate of a hot oven until golden-brown. SUEPBISE BALLS Eoll the potato balls as above, and with a tea- spoon press a hollow in the top. Chop fine some cold, lean meat, season it with salt and pepper, and put 1 teaspoonful of the meat into the hollow of the potato ball. Put a little but- ter on the top of each ball, and brown in the oven on the grate. CEEAMED POTATOES 4 cold potatoes ; % cupfui milk ; sprinkle pep- per ; % teaspoonful salt ; 1 tablespoonful butter. Cut the potatoes into cubes or thin slices. Put, with the milk, into a pan or double boiler, I? 218 THE COOKIN G SCHOOL and cook until they have absorbed nearly all the milk. Add the butter and seasoning, cook five minutes longer, and serve hot. If desired, 1 tablespoonful parsley, chopped fine, may be added with the seasoning. BOILED BEANS OE PEAS Choose fresh, green beans or peas. Put them into a kettle with a very small quantity of boiling water — just enough to keep them from burning. Boil until they are soft. Remove from the fire ; and, to 1 quart of the vegetables, add 1 tablespoonful butter, a sprinkle of pep- per, and a little salt, if necessary. Serve in a hot dish. BOILED CABBAGE Wash the cabbage in cold water, trim off the limp outside leaves, cut into eight pieces, or, if it must be cooked quickly, chop it into smaller pieces. Put it into a kettle a,nd cover with boil- ing watet, allowing 1 teaspoonful salt to each quart of water. Do npt cover the kettle, and there will be very little of the cabbage odor in the house. A young cabbage requires about forty-five minutes to cook. When tender, drain it well. The water may be changed once or more, adding fresh boiling salted water, in order to diminish the odor. When the cabbage is done the water may be VEGETABLES 219 drained off, and a little milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a sprinkle of pepper added. Boil up once, and serve. Vinegar is generally placed on the table with boiled cabbage. Many persons like cabbage boiled in the water in which corned beef or ham has been cooked. BOILED ONIONS Put the onions mto a pan of cold water, and holding them un le . the water, peel them. Put them into boiling water with 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart water. After cooking five minutes change the water, and after ten minutes more, change it again. Boil until tender. They usu- ally require one-half hour to become soft. Pour off the water, add milk enough to cover them, and boil five or ten minutes longer. To 6 onions add 1 teaspoonful butter, % teaspoonful salt, sprinkle pepper. STEWED TOMATOES Pour boiling water over the tomatoes and let them stand a moment. Remove, pour cold , water over them, peel off the skins, and cut out the green stem. Cut into slices, put into an uncovered agate saucepan and cook fifteen min- utes, or until they are soft and the juice is partly boiled away. To six tomatoes of me- 220 THE CCX)KING SCHOOL dium size add 14 teaspoonful salt ; i/^ teaspoon- ful sugar; 1 teaspoonful butter; sprinkle pep- per, and, if desired, i/4 cup fine cracker or bread crumbs. Boil the mixture up once. Canned tomatoes may be cooked in the same way, until thoroughly soft. To 1 pint of canned tomatoes, add the seasoning mentioned above. BOILED BEETS Scrub the beets without breaking the roots. Boil until they can be eas y pierced with a skewer. When done dip into cold water, take out, rub off the skin, and cut off the tops and roots, and slice. Sprinkle with salt and pep- per, and pour on melted butter, and serve. Al- ways boil beets separately from any other food, on account of their color. BOILED TUBNIPS Scrub the turnips, and pare off the thick skin. Cut in slices or quarters, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. Mash fine, and, with a wooden masher, press them in a fine strainer, or in a piece of coarse cheesecloth, to remove the water. To 1 pint of mashed turnips, add 1 tablespoonful butter, % teaspoonful salt, a sprinkle pepper. Serve in a hot dish. A few boiled potatoes are sometimes mashed with tur- nips to make them dry. VEGETABLES 22J CABKOTS Scrub, and scrape off a very thin skin. Cut each carrot into three or four pieces of equal size, and cook in boiling salted water until soft. PARSNIPS Scrub, scrape off a thin skin, cut each parsnip into quarters lengthwise, and cook in boiling salted water, from thirty to forty-five minutes, until soft. Place in a dish, and pour a white sauce over them, or serve with vinegar on the table. They may be buttered after > boiling, placed in the oven, and baked a golden-brown. DEIED BEANS AND PEAS Pick them over and remove specks, pebbles, or wormy beans or peas. Soak in cold water over- night. In the morning pour off the water, add fresh cold water, and set on the back of the stove to heat slowly, and simmer until soft. If desired to use as soup, they may be boiled, after becoming soft, until they fall to pieces, and form a soft, pulpy mass. Split peas need to be soaked only one-half hour before simmering. SPINACH Pick off the roots and decayed leaves; wash thoroughly in three ,or four waters. Put the 222 THE COOKING SCHOOL spinach in a larga kettle, without water. Put it on the stove where it will cook slowly until some of the juice is drawn out, then boil until tender. Drain and chop if liked. To % peck of spinach add 1 tablespoonful butter; % tea- spoonful salt, and 1 sprinkle pepper. Heat again. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs. SOME RULES FOE COOKING VEGETABLES It is not necessary to soak fresh vegetables in cold water, and they should be cooked as soon as prepared. Wilted vegetables can be fresh- ened by soaking in cold water. For green vegetables use salted boiling water. They should be cooked rapidly. Time required for boiling depends upon the condition of the article. When boiling such green vegetables as corn, peas, beans, celery, asparagus, and spinach, use as little water as you can. Only leave enough to moisten well. This saves a good deal of the matter which dissolves in water. Cabbage and cauliflower should be boiled in an open kettle. A little soda is necessary. With all other vegetables, excepting onions, which should be scalded and the water changed twice, they should be cooked in just enough water to cover, and drained thoroughly after cooking. VEGETABLES 223 The conunon vegetables are prepared for cooking in the following manner : Potatoes should be scrubbed, washed, and pared. ■ Beets should be washed without breaking the skin, to retain the juices. Carrots, wash and scrub, and scrape off the outside skin. Parsnips should be scrubbed thorougljly, and the fine roots removed. Cabbage and cauliflower: These should be thoroughly washed and soaked after trimming. When soaking they should be put in the water top down, to remove insects, etc. Spinach should be picked over carefully and washed several times. Celery should be washed and cleaned, scraped until all parts are white. Onions should be peeled and soaked. Green corn should hot be washed. It may h9 boiled with the husks on or not. String beans should have the side strings re- moved and washed. LESSON XXVI CEREALS These are to be cooked in a small quantity of water. For tMs reason, and also because they are glutinous and sticky, they* are very likely to burn. Hence it is necessary to stir them con- stantly, when cooked in one vessel over the fire, to prevent them from burning. But this neces- sity of stirring can be done away with if the double boiler is used. The heat of the inner vessel, which is surrounded by boiling water, is lower than that of the water; and so it takes a long time to cook. The great advantage of 'Slow boiling is that the flavor of the food is retained and the substance is not lost. In cooking oatmeal for gruel we use a great quantity of water. Some of the water goes to moisten and swell up the dry meal. When oatmeal is made into porridge the water used should be about three or four times the bulk of meal used. When flour is to be mixed with water we use a little cold water first, because the grains of flour are so fine that they will not separate in 224 ' CEREALS 225 hot or boiling water. It is not so in the case of oatmeal. The grains are coarse, and hot water may be used at once. Cold water would draw out the starch from the meal and the mix- ture would be sticky, and when the meal was cooked it would be tasteless and pasty. So the oatmeal is mixed directly with boiling water. About a half teaspoonf ul of salt is added to each cup of oatmeal because salt is wanting in the grain of the oat. It takes from forty minutes to one hour for oatmeal to cook prop- erly: for it is necessary to cook the gluten thoroughly. If it is cooked rapidly at first for about ten minutes, the starch grains of the meal will burst open. Then the porridge is to cook gradually for the rest of the period. Rice may be cooked in a similar manner, but water to only twice the bulk of rice should be used. LESSON EECIPES FOR CEEEALS STEAMED AVENA OE EOLLED OATS Two cupfuls boiling water ; J teaspoonf ul salt ; i cupful Rolled Oats or Avena. Put the salt and water into the top of a double boiler. Remove any black specks found in the oatmeal, and stir the grains into the water. Cover, and steam from thirty minutes 226 THE COOKING SCHOOL to one hour. Serve with milk or cream, and sugar. Baked or steamed apples and other fruits are sometimes served with oatmeal. SCOTCH OATMEAIi 5 cupfuls boiling water ; 1 teaspoonful salt ; 1 cupful coarse oatmeal. Pick over the oatmeal and put it with the salt and water into a two-quart covered boiler or pail. Set it on a stand in a large kettle of boil- ing water, and let it boil slowly all day or all night. This makes a jelly-like mass with a rich flavor. Do hot stir it, since stirring makes it ropy. STEAMED EICE 11/i cups boiling water; % teaspoonful salt; y-2, cup rice. Look the rice over carefully, and pick out the specks, husks, or pebbles. Wash and scrub with the hands, in two o ; three waters, to make it white. Put it with the water and salt into the top of a double boiler and steam from forty-five minutes to one hour. Try it by pinching grains of the rice between the thumb and finger. If any gritty spots are found, cook it until per- fectly soft. If it becomes very dry in cooking, add 1 tablespoonful hot water occasionally, until it is moist enough. A few raisins, seeded, cut into small pieces, and cooked with the rice, are CEREALS 227 an improvement. If the rice is cooked in milk instead of water, 11/2 cupfuls hot milk to 1/2 cup rice will be a good proportion. When the rice is done, press it into small cups, let it cool two or three minutes, and turn the shapes out on a pretty dish. Serve hot with sugar and milk, or with a soft custard poured around it. SOFT CTJSTAED 1 cupful hot milk; 1 sprinkle salt; 1 table- spoonful sugar ; 1 egg ; . "^^ teaspbonf ul liquid flavoring, or 1 sprinkle spice. Heat the milk in a double boiler, or in a dish or pan set into boiling water. If nutmeg or any spice is used, put it into the milk. Beat the egg slightly, add the sugar and salt, and pour the hot milk into the egg mixture, stirring it well. Put it all into the double boiler and steam it, stirring it constantly until it thickens. If it curdles, set the pan containing the custard into cold water, and beat with an egg-beater, or a fork, until smooth. Put the custard into a china or glass dish, to cool. When the steam has passed off the custard, the liquid flavoring may be stirred in. Serve cold, poured around boiled fioe, as a sauce. STEAMED APPLES Wipe and core the apples. Pare them, if desired. Put them on a plate, and set the plate 228 THE COOKING SCHOOL on a stand, or on some nails, in a tin steamer, over a kettle of boiling water. Steam until soft, or from fifteen to thirty minutes. Serve with oatmeal, or separately with sugar and milk, or cream. BOILED COEN-MEAL MUSH 1 pint boiling water; 1 cupful corn meal; % teaspoonful salt; % tablespoonful flour; 1 cup- ful cold milk. Put the water on to boil. Mix the corn meal, salt, and flour; add the milk gradually to make a smooth paste. Pour it into the boiling water, stir well, and boil, stirring often, thirty or forty minutes. Serve hot with milk or cream. When cold, cut it in i/^-inch slices, and brown both sides in a little hot fat. Serve with syrup on the table. This mixture is delicious, if cooked two or three hours in a double boiler. STEAMED BHUBAEB 1 cupful rhubarb ; l'-3 cup sugar. Wash the rhubarb and cut it into inch pieces without removing the skin, as this gives a pretty pink color to the juice. Put it in an agate 'double boiler without water, sprinkle the sugar over it and steam one-half hour, or until soft. Do not stir it, as it breaks the pieces. LESSON XXVII BREAD The three essentials to good bread-making are: 1. The right kind of flour. 2. Good yeast. 3. Proper baking. Bread may be made from various kinds of flour,but wheat flour is the best, as it contains the proper proportion of gluten to make the bread of a sufficiently sticky mass. Eye flour alone makes a moist, heavy bread, and corn flour a dry crumbly bread. Either of the latter may be advantageously mixed with wheat flour to make good bread. As a food, wheat is preferable to any of the other vegetable products, as it is more agreeable than corn and more nutritious than rice. It contains nearly all of the essential elements of nutrition. There are two varieties: red wheat and white wheat. The red is smaller, harder, more nutritive, though the flour made from it is not as white as that from the white wheat. 229 230 THE COOKING SCHOOL The chief adulterants of wheat flour are: rice flour, potato starch, pea meal, alum, plastei of Paris, and sulphate of copper, the latter be- ing heavy and used to increase the weight. The great test for good pure flour is to press a hand- ful tightly. On relaxing, the impression of the marks in the skin and the lines of the hand may be plainly seen on it. Yeast is a vegetable growth of a fungous na- ture, easily seen under a microscope. It con- sists of a mass of circular, or oval, bodies, which increase or multiply at an astonishing rate, but are easily killed by heat, cold, pressure, or chemical agents. Brewer's or distillery yeast is that which rises to the top of fermenting malt liquors. It is about eight times as strong as ordinary yeast. The ordinary yeast is made from hops or potatoes. The first process of bread-making is mixing. Place "1/^ teaspoonful of salt, % teaspoonful of sugar, and % cupful of yeast, or % yeast cake dissolved in ^ cupful of lukewarm water, in a mixing bowl. Add 1 cupful of water, and mix. Add flour enough to make the mass stiff enough to knead. Kneading is the next process. This is done' for the purpose of making the gluten elastic, of causing the parts to adhere to one another and to make the dough fine and even-grained. The BREAD 23J better the ingredients are mixed, the less knead- ing is required. The kneading must be kept up until the mass is quite elastic and until all stick- iness has disappeared. Much depends on thor- ough kneading. The next process is that of rising. The mass is placed in the mixing bowl again, covered with a cloth and a tin cover, and placed in a warm place (about 80 degrees) and allowed to rise. This will take longer in winter and in cold than in warm weather. In winter it may set over- night; in summer, from three to four hours. The rising of bread is caused by the growth of the yeast plant. The warmth and moisture cause it to grow. Boiling water will kill it; hence this must never be used in bread-making. As the yeast plant grows, the starch in the flour changes into sugar. The yeast plant changes the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, or carbonic-acid gas. This is fermentation. The carbonic-acid gas, in its efforts to escape from the mass of elastic gluten, fills the dough with air-cells which make the mass light and spongy. When it has increased to twice its original size, it is again w&rked over or kneaded, in the bowl. When it is moulded or shaped into loaves, which are again allowed to rise, it is then baked in an oven of about 400 degrees. This heat has the effect of killing the yeast germ and thereby 232 THE COOKING SCHOOL stopping the f ermentatiom. If this was allowed to go on, it would reach a point when the alco- holic fermentation would pass into the acetic fermentation and the dough would become sour. In baking, the alcohol passes into the oven, and the outer starch changes into gum, which forms the crust and is browned by the intense heat. YEAST Yeast is a plant, not the flowering plant to which most of us are accustomed, but one of the lower forms of vegetation referred to as germ plants. It is microscopic, and when magnified is seen as small rounded bodies. These increase very rapidly under proper conditions of heat and moisture. They remain inactive, however, both in a cool place and while they have nothing to feed upon. When mixed with warm water and flour they feed upon the flour and start to grow and to multiply. This growth sets upon a fermentation. During fermentation, which is aided by the diastase of the flour, alcohol and carbon dioxide are given off. The carbon di- oxide is a gas, and as this gas tries to escape through the tough tissues of the flour, bubbles are formed in the dough. This has the effect of making the bread light, and also of causing the bread to rise. Boiling water causes the death of the yeast plant. For this reason boil- BREAD 233 ing water must never be used in bread-making. A certain degree of heat is necessary to the growth of the plant, so cold water or a cool place will retard the rising of the bread. There are two sorts of fermentation possible in bread- making: alcoholic and acetic. Acetic or sour fermentation is caused by the formation of acetic acid, which is the basis of vinegar. It is this that causes sour bread; therefore bread must not be allowed to rise too long. The heat of the oven has the effect of stopping the fer- mentation. If the bread is put into the oven too soon, the bread will be heavy. If too late, it will be sour. The perception of the proper time comes only from experience and practice. In the making of yeast it is necessary to have some old yeast in order to supply a small quan- tity of the plant to the new mixture. This acts as the seed, and the other materials are the fa- vorable conditions to the growth of the plants. There are such good and cheap cultivated yeasts made by manufacturers in these days that it is hardly worth while to bother about making home-made yeast any longer. It can hardly be made so uniform as that prepared by brewers and distillers, and we recommend the use of this cultivated yeast at all times. i6 234 THE COOK ING SCHOOL LESSON RECIPES FOR BREAD BBEAD 1 cup lukewarm milk, or 1 cup lukewarm water and 1 teaspoonful butter"; 1 teaspoonful sugar; 1 teaspoonful salt ; y^ cake yeast dissolved in % cup lukewarm water or % cup liquid yea^t; flour to make a stiff dough (31/4 to 3i/^ cups). Scald the milk, add the sugar and salt, and cool it until lukewarm. Dissolve the com- pressed yeast in the lukewarm water, and add it. Stir in flour to make a dough stiff enough to handle. Scrape the dough out on a floured board, leaving the bowl clean, and knead the dough about fifteen minutes until smooth and elastic, so that, when pressed with the finger, the dough springs back. Place the dough in the bowl, grease the top with melted butter or dripping, to prevent a tough crust from forming and keeping the dough from rising. Cover the bowl with a towel, and set it in a warm place. Let the dough rise until double its bulk. Lay it on a board, and knead it again about fifteen minutes, being careful not to work in much flour, until the dough is smooth, even, and fine- grained. Shape it into biscuits or loaves, lay them in a greased pan, let them rise in a warm place, until double their bulk, and bake on lower shelf of a hot oven. Biscuit will require from BREAD 235 ten to twenty minutes, and loaves from forty- five minutes to one hour. If the dough is mi^ed with water, butter may be added to prevent the bread from being tough. The butter should be melted and added to the lukewarm water. The quantity of yeast in the reeipe will raise the dough to double its bulk in about six hours ; Va of a cake of yeast will raise it in about four hours, and % of a cake will raise it in about twelve hours. BREAD MADE WITH A SPONGE Use the bread recipe, mixing in only enough flour to make a thick batter. If liked, boil a po- tato, mash it, and stir it in. Let the batter rise overniglit. In the morning, stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough, and knead or chop it until it is smooth and free' from stickiness. Mould it lightly into loaves or biscuit. Let them rise until double their bulk, and bake. The potato is an advantage, since yeast acts quickly on cooked starch. ENTIRE-WHEAT OR GRAHAM BREAD Use the above recipe, doubling the quantity of sugar, and using for each cupful of flour, V3 cup of entire wheat or Graham flour, and Vg cup white flour. Proceed as in the preceding recipe, handling the dough ligihtly when kneading, since it is apt to be sticky. 236 THE COOKING SCHOOL EAISED COEN-BBBAD 2 cupfuls yellow com meal ; % cake of yeast, and 14 cupful lukewarm water; % cupful mo- lasses; % teaspoonful salt; % teaspoonful soda ; 2 cupfuls rye meal. Sift the corn meal into the mixing-bowl, and fecald it with 1 cup boiling water, just enough to wet it ; let it stand ten minutes, and add 1 cup cold water, enough to make a batter. Add the molasses, yeast, salt, soda, and rye. Beat well, cover, and let it rise in a warm place all night, or until it cracks open. Stir thoroughly, but- ter and flour tins, fill them one-half full, let the mixture rise to the top, and bake in a moderate oven two hours. BAISED MUFFINS ' , 2 cupfuls milk; 1 tablespoonful butter; 3 cup- fuls flour; 1/4 cup yeast or % cake yeast; 1 tea- spoonful salt. Scald the milk, add the butter, and cool. When lukewarm, stir in the yeast, salt, and flour, and beat well for five minutes. Cover, and set to rise about two hours, until double its , bulk. Add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Divide into small balls, and place in a deep gem- pan, cover and let rise to double their bulk. Bake about one-half hour. When served, pull them open, since cutting makes them heavy. LESSON XXVIII SALADS A SALAD well prepared is a cliarining com- pound', and, when taken with plenty of oil, very- wholesome, attractive, and , agreeable ; badly prepared it is an abomination. A Spanish proverb says that four persons are needed to make a good salad — a spendthrift to throw in the oil, a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to administer the seasoning, and a madman to stir the whole together. Lettuce is generally supposed to form the foundation of a salad, but there are few fresh vegetables that may not be used: and almost every known vegetable is, when plainly dressed, used cold for salads ; and cold meat, fish, and game are served in the same way. Amongst the vegetables appropri- ate for salads may be named asparagus, arti- chokes, beetroot boiled, basil, celery, chives, cu- cumbers, chervil, cauliflowers, dandelion-leaves, endive, French beans, garlic, lettuces of all kinds, lentils, mustard and cress, mint, onions, parsley, potatoes, radishes, shallots, sorrel, tar- ragon, tomatoes, Windsor beans, and water-- 237 238 THE COOKING SCHOOL cress. Though a val-iety in salads is easily se- cured, great care is necessary in the prepara- tion of the dish, and three or four rules must be closely observed if the salad is to be a success. First, the vegetables must be young, freshly cut, in season, and in good condition. If possible, they should be gathered early in the morning, or late in the evening, and should be kept in a cool, damp place. Secondly, the vegetables should not be allowed to lie long in water. If withered, they may be put in for a short time to render them a little crisp, but if fresh, they should be simply rinsed through the water and dried im- mediately. Thirdly^ — and this point requires most careful attention — the vegetables must be rendered perfectly dry after washing. The best way of doing this is to drain the salad and shake it first in a colander or salad-basket, and after- wards in a clean napkin held by the corners and shaken lightly till the salad is dry. Fourthly, cut the salad with a silver knife, or tear it in shreds ; do not prepare it until a short time be- fore it is wanted, and on no account mix the salad-dressing with it until the last moment. It is a very usual and excellent plan to pour the liquid into the bottom of the bowl, lay the shred vegetables upon it, and mix the salad at table. A wooden fork and spoon are the best for this purpose. Salads may be garnished in various SALADS 239 VTSijs, and afford ample opportunity for the dis- play of artistic taste. Boiled beetroot cut into slices stamped into fancy shapes or cut into trellis-work, sliced cucumbers, olives, hard-i boiled eggs cut into quarters or rings, radishes, nasturtium-leaves, and flowers, etc., may all be used. When these are arranged tastefully the salad presents a very attractive appearance. Of course the garniture must not entirely hide the salad. LESSON RECIPES FOR SALADS BOILED SALAD DRESSING % teaspoonful mustard; 1 teaspoonful salt; sprinkle cayenne; 1 even tablespoonful sugar; 1 ^SS'j % cup vinegar, or juice of 1 lemon; % cup milk; 1 tablespoonful butter, or 2 table- spoonfuls salad-oil. Mix the 4 dry seasonings. Beat the Qgg, scald the vinegar and milk in separate dishes, and add them with the butter. Cook it in a double boiler, stirring constantly until it thickens like soft ' custard. If it curdles, beat it until smooth with an egg-beater. If desired cold, strain it into a china dish, and set away to cool. The sugar may be omitted if preferred. If the seasoning is too strong, use smaller quanti- ties. Try % teaspoonful of mustard. 240 THE COOKING SCHOOL COLD SLAW Take a fresh, crisp cabbage, and pull off the torn, dirty leaves. Cut it into several pieces, and shave each piece into thin strips, using the hard stalk as a handle in holding the piece. Strain the salad dressing, while hot, over the cabbage, mix it well, spread it out, and set it away to cool. When ready to serve, arrange in a neat mound in the centre of a clean dish. The amount of dressing in the recipe is sufficient for a 1-pound cabbage. If the cabbage is wilted, soak it for an hour or more in cold salted water. LETTUCE SALAD Pick the leaves off from the head of lettuce, look them over carefully to be sure that they are whole, clean, and free from insects. Wash them in cold water, and shake the leaves gently in a cloth to dry them ; arrange on a flat dish with the smaller leaves inside the larger, and serve, with the cold salad dressing on the table. MEAT SALADS Cold lean mutton, lamb, pork, beef, chicken, or veal may be freed from fat, bones, skin, and gristle, cut into small neat pieces, stirred into the hot salad dressing, placed on the ice to get very cold, and served on a pretty dish., SALADS 241 An attractive way of serving these salads is to arrange lettuce leaves on a platter, and put a tablespoonful of the mixture in the centre of each leaf. LOBSTEE SALAD The meat of a boiled lobster may be cut, and mixed with the dressing, and served in the same way as the meat. Bits of the lobster-coral are sometimes placed on top of the salad to give an ornamental effect. POTATO SALAD Boil 6 potatoes, cut in thin slices, pour the hot dressing over and let it stand until cold. 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped celery may be mixed with the potatoes, and 1 teaspoonful onion juice may be stirred into the dressing after it is cooked. Serve in the same manner as the meat salads. Sliced boiled beets are sometimes added. TOMATO SALAD Pour boiling water over 8 or 10 tomatoes, and let it stand a moment. Pour off, and add cold water. Slip off the skins, slice, and set away to become cold. Serve with the cold dressing. If desired, the slices of tomatoes may be served on lettuce leaves. 242 THE COOKING SCHOOL VEGETABLE SALAD Remnants of cold cooked carrots, beans, beets, peas, and asparagus, and raw celery, may be cut in small, neat pieces, mixed with the hot dressing, and served when cold. A teaspoon- ful of onion juice added to the dressing is an improvement. SALAD DRESSING Salad dressings are frequently bought of the grocer, and sent to table in the bottle in which they are purchased. ' Though these creams are many of them very good, epicures in salad al- ways prefer that the salad dressing should be prepared at home. Mayonnaise salad sauce is perhaps to be preferred tq any other, and for this a recipe is given. A foolish prejudice is felt by many persons against the use of oil in salads, but this is gradually disappearing, as the majority of those who are prevailed upon to overcome it end by being exceedingly partial to what they had before disliked, and they also find that oil tends to prevent the fermentation of the raw vegetable, and is, besides, an antidote to flatu- lency. Seeing, however, that this prejudice still exists, two or three recipes are given of salad dressings without oil as well as with it* It has SALADS 243 been already said that the dressing should not be mixed with the salad until the last moment. Nevertheless, it may always be prepared some hours before it is wanted, and stored in a cool, airy place. When salads are much used, a good plan is to make sufl&cient for two or three days' consunaption, and to bottle it off for use. No. 1. Put a saltspoonful of salt, % salt- spoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a pinch of cayenne, and a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar into a bowl. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and add, first by drops and afterwards by teaspoonfuls, 2 table- spoonfuls, of oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of milk', and 2 tablespoonfuls of vipegar. Stir the mixture well between every addition. The sauce ought to look like cream. A teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar ma.y be added, or not. No. 2. Boil an egg till hard, and lay it in cold water for a minute. Strip off the shell, and put the yolk into a bowl. Eub it well with the back of a wooden spoon, and put with it a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, % salt- spoonful of white pepper, a saltspoonful of powdered sugai;, and a pinch of cayenne. Add, first by drops and afterwards by saltspoonfuls, a tablespoonful of oil, 6 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and, lastly 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Beat the sauce well between every addition. 244 THE COOKING SCHOOL Mince the whole of the egg, or cut it into, rings, with which to garnish the salad. No. 3 (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). Boil 2 eggs for a quarter of an hour. Lay them in cold water, and in a few minutes strip off the shells, and lay the yolks in a basin. Eub them till smooth with the back of a wooden spoon; and mix with them, very gradually, first a table- spoOnful of water or thick cream, and after- wards 2 table^poonfuls of oil. When these are well mixed, add a teaspoonful of salt or pow- dered sugar, a teaspoonful of made mustard, and, lastly, and very gradually, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Put the sauce at the bottom of the bowl, lay the salad on the top, garnish with the whites of the eggs cut into rings, and do not miy the salad till the last moment. No. 4. Mix a saltspoonful of salt and % salt- sjpoonful of pepper with a tablespoonful of oil. When the salt is dissolved, put in 4 additional tablespoonfuls of oil, and then pour the sauce over the salad. Mix thoroughly, and add a tablespoonful of good vinegar, and a tablespoon- ful of tarragon or cucumber vinegar. Mix again, and serve. i No. 5. Rub the hard-boiled yolks of 3 eggs till smooth, and mix in a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of raw mustard, a saltspooflful of powdered loaf sugar, % saltspoonful of white SALADS 245 pepper, and the well-beaten yolk of a raw egg. Add gradually 4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and 2 tablespoonfuls of strained lemon juice. Beat the dressing thoroughly between every ad- dition. No. 6. Beat the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs till smooth. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, a pinch of cayenne, 14 of a tablespoonful of white pepper, and, grad- ually, 2 tablespoonfuls of oil, the strained juice of a lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of light wine. No. 7. Eub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs till smooth with a teaspoonful of vinegar. Add a teaspoonful each of mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper, a tablespoonful of claret, and a finely minced shallot or young onion. Beat in, first by drops and afterwards by teaspoonfuls, 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and, lastly, add a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and a table- spoonful of white-wine vinegar. No. 8. Beat a spoonful of flour with the yolks of 3 eggs. Add a teaspoonful of mixed mus- tard, % saltspoonful of salt, % teaspoonful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and 3 table- spoonfuls of water. Cut 3 ounces of streaky bacon into small pieces, and fry these till they begin to turn color. Pour in the salad mixture, and stir the whole over the fire till the cream is thick and smooth. Pour it out, and continue 246 THE COOKING SCHOOL stirring untileool, and add a little more vinegar and water if necessary. The sauce ought to be as thick as custard. No. 9 (named Sauce a la Lowry). Beat the yolk of a raw egg. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and, gradually, 3 tea- spoonfuls of salad-oil, a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and 2 teaspoonfuls of vinegar. LESSON XXIX PASTRY In making pastry, the first thing to be remem- bered is titat every article used in its prepara- tion should be scrupulpusly clean ; and in order to ensure this it is best to have all the utensils washed and thoroughly, dried directly after they are used, and dusted when they are agaip re- quired. In addition to this there must be good materials, a welLregulated oven, a cool room, and a cook who brings to her. work a cool, light, quick hand, close attention, and a little experi- ence. There are four principal kinds of pastry : puff paste ; short cri;st, for family use ; standing crust, for meat and fish pies ; and brioche paste, which is a sort of dough used for loaves, rolls, and buns. As cool hands are required, it is best to wash them in water as hot as can be borne a minute or two before making the pastry. The heat of the oven should in most cases be moder- ate, and the, door should be only opened when it is absolutely necessary during the process of baking. The best way of ascerta/ining if the oven is properly heated is to bake a small piece 2A1 248 THE COOKI NG SCHOOL of pastry in it before putting in the pie or tart. Standing crusts require a quicker oven than or- dinary pastry. In all cases wetting the pastry much will make it tough. PASTE FOR COMMON PIES Very excellent pastry may be made with lard or dripping, instead of butter, or with a mixture of lard and dripping. Good beef fat, or suet melted gently down, and poured off before it has had time to bum, is very nearly as good as anything that can be used for making pastry for everyday use. Very palatable pies may be made from the dripping from roast beef, veal, pork, or mutton, though the last named is thought by some to impart a disagreeable flavor of tallow to pastry. The quantity of fat used must, of course, be regulated by the expense, and it may be remembered that a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so suitable for many dishes as a substantial light one, and that the lightness of pastry depends quite as much upon a light, quick, cool hand as on a large amount of butter or lard. The addition of a beaten egg or a little lemon juice to the water, or a teaspoon- ful of baking-powder to the flour, will make the paste lighter. It should be remembered, how- ever, that though baking-powder is excellent for common pastry that is to be used immediately, PASTRY 24? pies are more likely to get dry quickly when it is used. PTJFF PASTE Dry and sift the flour, and prepare the butter. Equal weights of butter and flour may be used, or % of a pound of butter to each pound of flour. Put a little salt into the flour, and make it into a paste by stirring gradually into it with a knife rather less than half a pint of water. EoU it out till it is an inch thick. Divide the butter into quarters : break one of these quarters into small pieces, and sprinkle these over the paste. Dredge a little flour over it, and turn it over, then repeat the process, until all the butter is incorporated with the paste. Let the paste rest for ten minutes between each two rolls. Equal parts of lard and butter may be used for this paste, and if the yolk of an egg or the strained juice of half a lemon be mixed with the water in the first instance, the paste will be lighter. FRENCH PASTE, FOK MEAT PIES, HOT OB COLD Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and rub iightly into it half a pound of fresh butter. Add half a teaspoonful of salt, and make the mixture up into a smooth stiff paste, by stirring into it 2 fresh, eggs which have been beaten up with rather less than % of a pint of water. Roll the pastry out, give it two or three turns, and bake '7 250 THE COOOKG SCHOOL as soon as possible. Time, ten minutes to pre- pare. LESSON RECIPES FOR PASTRY PASTBY 1 heaping cup flour; 14 teaspoonful salt; % teaspoonful bakings-powder; 2 tablespbonfuls shortening ; 14 ^^V or more cold water. Sift the flour, salt, and baking-powder into a bowl,' and rub in the shortening until the whole is reduced to a fine powder. Mix With the cold water to make a stiff dough. Scrape on a floured board, and pat and roll into a circular shape to fit the plate. Fit it loosely into the plate, allowing it to come a little over the edge, since it shrinks when baked. This makes two crusts for plates of ordinary size. Cottolene may be used as shortening. SHOBT-OAKB PASTE 2 cups flour ; % teaspoonful salj; ; % even tea- spoonful soda, and 1 slightly rounded teaspoon- ful cream of tartar, or 2 teaspoonfuls baking- powder; % cupful butter; 1 cupful sweet milk. Sift the salt, soda, cream-tartar, and flour ta- gether, and rub in the butter, keeping it as cold as possible. Stir in the milk to make a dough just soft enough to handle. Turn it on a floured board; divide the dough into halves and roll PASTRY 251 each piece out to fit a round tin plate. Bake at once, in a hot oven. When done, turn out eadh cake and lay it on the clean under-side of the baking-tin. With a thin, sharp knife, split the cake evenly, and lay the bottom crust on a china plate. Butter each half. Lay partly mashed, sweetened strawberries, peaches, apple-sauce, stewed rhubarb, or any hot cooked fruit suitable for pies, on the under crust, lay the upper crust oyer it, and serve as a pie. Powdered sugar may be sifted over the top. If liked, it may be served with cream. APPLE PIE Take 4 large apples for each' pie. Pare, core, and slice thin. Lay them in a deep pieplate, and sprinkle over 1 tablespo.onful sugar to each apple, and % tabiespoonful water to each, and a little spice. If the apples are small, measure scant tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cover with a crust of pastry and bake until the crust is brown and the fruit is soft. About one-half hour is re- quired. The apples may be stewed with the sugar and water, and used as directed in the recipe for shortcake paste, so as to make a pie with two wholesome crusts. Ehubarb may be washed, cut into pieces, sprinkled with 2 table- spoonfuls sugar to % cupful rhubiarb, and cooked in the same way. Peaches, cherries, and 252 THE COOKING SCHOOL apricots may be cooted, also, in this way. Huckleberries, blackberries, and raspberries I may be picked over, washed and sweetened with Vs cup sugar to 1 cup fruit, and baked in a pie, according to this recipe. Use only an upper crust for fruit pies, since, in baking, the juice soaks into the under crust, making it heavy and indigestible. In making fruit pies without an under crust always use earthenware plates. LEMOlf PIE 3 even tablespodnfuls corn starch ; 1 cup sugar; 1 cup boiling water; 2 even tablespoon- fuls butter; 1 lemon (rind and juice) ; 2 yolks of egg; 2 whites of egg, and 1 tablespoonful sugar. Mix the corn starph and sugar, pour on the boiling water and boil until clear. When slightly cooled add the butter, the lemon juice and grated rind and the beaten yolk, and cook. Line a plate with pastry, and when baked pour in the lemon-mixture. Whip the whites until stiff, and beat in the sugar. Drop it on the pie, and brown on the grate 2 or 3 minutes. This makes one large pie. MINCE PIE 1 cupful raisins; 1 egg, beaten; 1% cupfuls currants; 14 teaspoonful salt; y^ cupful .cut PASTRY 253 citron; % teaspoonful cinnamon; juice and rind of 1 lemon; Vs cup molasses ; % cupful tart jelly or fruit- juice ; 2 tablespoonf uls vinegar ; 2 Bos- ton crackers; y^. cupful sugar; % teaspoonful cloves. Seed and chop the raisins, wash the currants, roll the crackers fine. Mix all the ingredients, together, boil ten minutes, and bake with an upper and Txnder crust. The egg may be omit- ted, and 3 cupfuls apples, 1 cupful meat, and i/4 cupful beef suet chopped together, may be added, and the mixture boiled and stirred from twenty to thirty minutes until the apples are soft. BBIOCHE PASTE Brioche paste may be served in a great va- riety of ways, all of which are excellent. It may be baked in one large cake ; in fancy shapes, such as rings and twists; or in small ? oaves, rolls, or buns. Gruyere and Parmesan cheese or sweets may be introduced into it, or small por- tions may be stewed in soup, or fried, or used as the outer crust in which rissoles are cooked. Its most usual form, however, is that of a sort of double cake, the two parts being moulded separately, and moistened before they are joined, to cause them to adhere closely to one another. The upper portion of the brioche should be made smaller than the lower one, and 254 THE COOKING SCHOOL the entire cake ' should be brushed over with beaten egg before it is put into the oven. When jam is put into, brioches, it should be mixed with part of the paste, and the rest rolled out, and put round it, so as to keep the fruit from boil- ing out. Cheese, on the contrary, should be well mixed with the paste^ which should, then be baked in the ordinary way. Gruyere cheese should be cut into small dice, and Parmesan cheese grated for this purpose. Brioche paste is best made on the evening of the day before it is wanted, as it requires to lie in a cool place for some hours before it is baked. Though deli- cious, it is considered rather indigestible. It must be baked in a well-heated oven. The quan- tity only which will be wanted for immediate use should be made at one time, as brioche paste will n6t keep. When properly prepared it is light and springy to the touch before it is baked, and it ought to rise in the sponge to fully twice its original size. It is made as follows : Take 1 pound (weighing 16 ounces) of dried and sifted flbur. Divide it into 4 parts, and with 1 of these parts make the leaven. To do this, put the flour into a bowl, make a hollow in the middle of it, and pour into this hollow half an ounce of yeast dissolved in a spoonful or two of warm water. Add as much water as is required to make the whole into a soft smooth paste; gather it into PASTRY 255 a ball, and put it into a bowL large eilough to contain 3 times its quantity. Score the pa^te lightly across the top with the blunt side of a knife, cover with a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise; it will be ready in about twenty minutes. Whilst it is rising take the remaining 3 parts of the flour. Make a hole in the centre, and put into this hole a quarter of an ounce of salt, half an ounce of powdered sugar dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of tepid water, 10 ounces of butter, which has been washed in two or three waters, squeezed in a cloth to 'free it from moisture, and broken into smair pieces, and 4 eggs freed from the specks. "Work all gently together with the fingers, and add one by one 3 more eggs, until the paste is quite smooth, and Ueither too hard to be worked easily nor so soft that it sticks to the fingers. When the leaven is sufficiently risen, put it upon the paste, and mix both togetlier with the fingers gently khd thoroughly. Piit the dough into a basin, and leave it in a warm pla,ce all night. Early on the following morning knead it up afresh, let it rise two hours longer, and knead once inore be- fore it is baked. BriOche paste should be put into a well-heated oven. The time requii'ed for baking depencfs, of course, upon the size of the cake. Its appearance will soon show -ft^hen it is done enough. The materials here gi^^fe, if 256 THE COOKING SCHOOL baked in one cake, would require about half an hour. Sufficient for half a dozen! persons. PUDDINGS Attention is all that is required, and a little manual dexterity in turning the pudding out of the mould or cloth. Let the several ingredients be each fresh and good of its kind, as one bad article, particularly eggs, will taint the whole composition. Have the moulds and pudding- cloths carefully, washed when used, the cloths with soda, and dried in the open air. Lay them aside sweet and thoroughly dry. , Pud- dings ought to be put into plenty of boiling water, which must be kept upon a quick boil ; or baked, in general, in a sharp but not scorching oven. A pudding in which there i? much bread must be tied loosely, to allow room for swelling. A batter pudding ought to be tied up firmly, Moulds should be quite full, well buttered, and covered with a fold or two of paper floured and buttered. Eggs for puddings must be used in greater quantity when of small size, The yolks and whites, if the pudding is wanted particu- larly light and nice, should be strained after being separately well beaten. A little salt is necessary for all potato, bean, or jteas puddings, and all puddings in which there is suet or meat, aB it improves the flavor. The several ingredi- PASTRY 257 ents, after being well stirred together, should in general have a Little time to stand, that the flavors may blend. A frequent fault of boiled puddings, which are often solid bodies, is being underdone. Baked puddings are as often scorched. Puddings may be steamed with ad- vantage, placing the mould or basin in the steamer, or three parts dipped in a pot of boil- ing water, which must be kept boiling, and filled up as the water wastes. When the pudding- cloths are to be used, dip them in hot water and dredge them with flour ; the moulds must be but- tered. Plain moulds or basins are easily man- aged. When a pudding begins to set, stir it up in the dish, if it is desired that the fruit, etc., should not settle to the bottom; and, if boiled, turn over the cloth in the pot for the same rea- son, and also to prevent it from sticking to the bottom, on which a plate may be laid as a pre- ventive. The time of boiling must be according to size and solidity. When the pudding is taken out of the pot, dip it quickly into cold water. Set it in a basin of its size. It will then more readily separate from the cloth without break-^ ing. Have the oven very clean for all uses, cleaning it regularly before lighting the fire. Take care that the juice of pies does not boil over, or the liquid contents of puddings; and remeixiber that sugar, butter, and suet become 258 THE COOKING SCHOOL liquids in boiling. It is from their excess that puddings often break. Be, therefore, rather sparing of sugar ; for if you have much syrup you must have more eggs and flour, which make puddings heavy. It is often the quantity of sugar which makes tapioca and arrowroot, boiled plain, troublesome to keep in shape when moulded. Rice or other grain puddings must not be allowed to boil in the oven before setting, or the ingredients will separate and never set ; so never put them into a very hot oven. As a rule, we may assume that such flavoring ingredi- ents as lemon-grate and juice, vanilla, and co- coanut, are better liked in modern puddings than cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. BATTER PUDDINGS Care must be taken to mix batter puddings smoothly. Let the dried flour be gradually mixed with a little of the milk, as in making mustard or starch, and afterwards, in nice cookery, strain the latter through' a coarse sieve. Puddings are lighter boiled than baked. Raisins, prunes, and damsons for puddings must be carefully stoned; or sultanas may be used in place of other raisins. Currants must be picked and plunged in hot water, rubbed in a floured cloth, and plumped and dried before PASTRY 259 the fire; almonds must be blanched and sliced; and in mixing grated bread, pounded biscuit, etc., with milk, pour the milk on them hot, and cover the vessel for an hour, which is both better and easier than boiliug. Suet must be quite fresh and free of fibres. Mutton suet for pud- dings is lighter than that of beef; but marrow, when it can be obtained, is richer than either. A baked pudding has often a paste border or a garnishing of blanched and sliced ahnonds about it, but these borders are merely matters of ornament; if moulded, puddings may also be garnished in various ways, as with bits of cur- rant jelly. The sweetness and flavor of pud- dings must, in most cases, be determined by in- dividual taste. Sugar can be added at table. ' ' Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool •place in the cloth they are boiled in, will keep good some months. When wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through they are ready. ' ' In preparing meat puddings, ' ' the first and most important point is never to use any meat that is tainted; for in puddings, above all other dishes, it is least possible to disguise it by the confined process which the ingredients undergo. The gradual heating of the meat, which alone would accelerate decomposition, will cause the 260 THE COOmNG SCHCX3L smallest piece of tainted meat to contaminate the rest. Be particular also that the suet and fat are not rancid, always remembering the grand principle that everything which gratifies the palate nourishes." A pudding cloth, however coarse, should never be washed with soap; it should just be dried as quickly as possible, and kept dry and free from dust, and stowed away in a drawer or cupboard free from smell, LESSON RECIPES FOR PUDDINGS BAKED RICE PUDDING % cup rice; 2 teaspoonfuls sugar; % tea- spoonful salt; 1 quart skimmed milk, or 1 pint full milk, and 1 pint water. Pick over and wash the rice. Stir it into the milk with the sugar and salt. Butter- a pud- ding dish, pour in the milk and rice; bake slowly two hours, covered, then uncover and brown. Seeded raisins may be added. INDIAN TAPIOCA PUDDING 3 tablespoonfuls tapioca; 2 tablQspoonfuls Indian meal ; 1 teaspoonf ul butter ; 1 teasppon- ful salt ; 1 quart milk ; % cup molasses. Soak the tapioca in hot water. Soak the meal in y^ cupful of the milk, heat the rest of the milk. PASTRY 26t Mix together the first 4 ingredients," add the hot milk and molasses. Turn into a buttered baking dish, bake about one hour. APPLE TAPIOCA % cupful tapioca or sago ; 1 quart hot water ; % teaspoonful salt; 6 or 7 apples; 1/2 cupful sugar, cinnamon or nutmeg, sugar. Pick over and wash the sago, soak about one hour. Pour on the hot water, cook till clear ; stir often, add the salt. Pare and core the apples, slice or put whole in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle sugar and spice over them, and turn in the sago. Bake till the apples are soft. Serve with milk and sugar. ' Peaches may be used instead of apples. • BREAD PUDDING 1 pint milk, scalded; 1 cup bread crumbs; 1 teaspoonful butter; 1 lemon; % cup sugar; 2 eggs. Add the sugar and crumbs to the scalded milk, add the butter and lemon rind. Beat the yolks of the eggs and add them. Bake in a but- tered dish thirty minutes. Cool, and spread the beaten whites over the top. Add to the whites in beating the juice of the lemon and i/^ cup powdered sugar. LESSON XXX » CAKE-MAKING The average girl, when learning to cook, wants to start right in with cake. This prob- ably comes more from her fondness for the ar- ticle itself than from a desire to , begin with something easy, for to make good cake is one of the most difficult arts embraced in cookery, CHEMISTRY OP CAKE The eggs and milk which go into the cake are nitrogenous foods ; the flour, butter, and sugar, carbonaceous; and while all of these ingredi- ents, when taken by themselves, are not only perfectly harmless but wholesome, they become, in combination with each other and baked, rather the reverse under some conditions, and difficult to diigest. TO MAKE CAKE The first rule to be observed in making cake is to exercise great care in measuring the in-, gredients. The recipes found in this work on cooking are all tried, and success will follow for 262 CAK£-MAKING 263 those who give strict attention to the directions. Next in importance is the baking, and here again great care must be exercised. In addi- tion to this one must use only good flour and fresh e^gs and butter. For these reasons it will be well to observe the following rules in connec- tion with this subject : Cakes made with butter as an ingredient, which by the way are more difficult to digest because heating the butter makes it more diffi- cult of digestion, should be baked in an oven with a moderate heat (220° Fahr.), while layer cakes need to be baked more quickly, and should have from 280° to 300° Fahr. Such cakes as angel's food require even a less amount of heat (212°). A tin basin should not be used in beating to- gether the butter, sugar, and eggs. If you do use one, your ingredients are likely to be dis- colored. For this purpose a wooden spoon and a white enamelled basin are well adapted. Carefully measure out all the materials called for by the recipe, before beginning. Then you> are not so apt to make mistakes. Keep the whites and yolks of eggs separate, unless the recipe tells you particularly not to do so. Sometimes the latter is necessary. Beat one thing at a time before adding the next ingredient; i. e., first the butter before 264 THE COOKING SCHOOL adding the sugar, then these 'two ingredi- ents until very light before adding the eggs, when no directions to the contrary are given. A teaspoonful of baking-powder always signi- fies a rounding teaspoonful. Be sure that dried fruits such as raisins, etc., are perfectly clean and well floured. They should be added to the cake always just before putting into the oven. If you find that the fruits go to the bottom, you should thicken the batter by adding flouf, for in that case your batter is not thick/ enough to hold them in place. Use suet for greasing the pahs. It will pre- vent burning or sticking to the pan, which often happens where butter is used for this purpose. For fruit cake, and cakes rich in butter, al- ways line the cake-tin with greased paper. The oven should be in the right Qondition, and the cake put in as soon as it is mixed; If you find that your oven is too hot, which sometimes happens where a thermometer is not used, the temperature may be reduced by plac- ing a pan of cold water in the oven. The only sure way of having the oven right is to use a thermometer. If you jar the stove or open and close the door before the cake is set, it will fall. Therefore, if necessary to ascertain the temperature of the oven, open and close the door very carefully* CA KE-MAKING 2^ Care must be exercised to ascertaia whetlier or not the cake is thoroughly done before taking it out of the oven. Wherever you find the time given for baking in a recipe, you must take into consideration that this is based upon the tem- perature as regulated by a thermometer. If, then, you have not your oven at the proper tem- perature, your baking time may be wrong. An- other argument in favor of the use of a ther- mometer. Always be careful in taking the cake from the oven. Put your ear to it, and if you hear it tick you will know it is not done. CAKES In making cakes, great care should be taken that everything which is used should be per- fectly dry, as dampness in the materials is very likely to produce heaviness in the cake. It is always best to have each ingredient properly- prepared before beginning to mix the cake. Currants should be put into a colander and cold water poured over them two or three times, then spread upon a dish and carefully looked over, so that any little pieces of stone or stalk may be removed. The dish should then be placed before the fire, and the currants turned over frequently until they are quite dry. Sutter should be laid in cold water before it i8 266 THE COOKING SCHOOL is used, and, if salt, should be washed in sev- eral waters. It should be beaten with the hand in a bowl till it is reduced to a cream, pouring off the water untU no more is left. Flour. — The flour for cakes should be of the best quality. It should be weighed after it is sifted and dried^ Eggs. — Each Qgg should always be broken into a cup before it is put to the others, as this will prevent a bad one spoiling the rest. The yolks and whites should be separated, the specks removed, and then all the yolks transferred to one bowl and the whites to another. The yolks may be beaten with a fork till they are light and frothy, but the whites must be whisked till they are one solid froth, and no liquor remains at the- bottom of the bowl. The eggs should be put in a cool place till I'equired for use. When the whites only are to be used, the yolks, if un- •broken, and kept covered, will keep good for three or four day's. Sugar. — Fine granulated sugar is the best to use for cakes ; it should be pounded and sifted. Lemon. — Peel should be grated very thin, as the white, or inner side, will impart a bitter flavor to the cakes. Almonds for cakes should be blanched by be- ing put into boiling water, and when they have been in for a few minutes the skin should be CAKE-MAKING 267 taken off and tlie almonds thrown into cold water to preserve the color. If they are pounded, a few drops of water, rose-water, or white of egg should be added in every two or three minutes, to prevent them oiling. If they are not pounded, they should be cut into thin slices or divided lengthwise. LESSON RECIPES FOR CAKES PLAIN CAKE 1 heaping tablespoonful butter; % cup fine sugar; 1 egg; i/4 cup milk; 1 even teaspoonful baking powder; % cup flour; % teaspoonful spice, or % teaspoo]jful flavoring. Make ready the fire and oven, and line the pans with buttered paper. Cream the butter, and work in the sugar gradually. Separate the egg, beat the yolk, pour the milk into it, and add it to the creamed butter. Sift in the flour, bak- ing-powder, and spice, and stir it well, to make a smooth dough. Beat the white until stiff, and fold it lightly into the dough. Bake from twenty to thirty-five minutes. Try with a clean straw or a fine skewer. When done, take it from the pan, let it stand a few minutes, and .carefully peel off the paper. When cool, it may be frosted. - English currants, raisins quartered and seeded, or citron cut in thin 268 THE CCX)KING SCHOOL slices, may be rolled in flour, and added to. the cake just before baking. Chopped nuts may be stirred in to make a nut cake. A little cocoa may be stirred into part of the dough to make it dark. Spread half of the light cake in the pan, then scatter in the dark and add the re- mainder of the liglit. The following recipe resembles the plain cake given above, the ingredients being in larger quantities : LIGHT CAKE 1 cupful butter J 1^^ cupfuls sugar; 3 eggs, separated; 1 teaspoonful flavoring; % cupful milk; 3 cupfuls flour; 2 teaspoonfuls baking- powder, or 1 teaspoonful cream tartar, and % teaspoonful soda. Follow the directions for mixing as given in the plain cake. Do not put in one-quarter cup- ful of the ■flour, but save it to see if the dough is too stiff. If the cake is baked in shallow pans, or in a gem-pan, less flour will be needed than for a thick loaf. One cupful currants may be added, or 1 cupful nuts ; % cupful dates may be floured and added to make a date cake. It may be baked in round, shallow pans, and the cakes put together with jelly between. CAKE-MAKING 269 SPONGE CAKE 1% cupfuls flour; 2 teaspoonfuls baking- powder; 1 cupful sugar; 1 teaspoonful flavor- ing; 2 eggs; mjlk or cream. Sift tlie flour, baMng-powder, and sugar to- gether. Break the eggs into a cup, fill the cup with milk or cream, pour the mixture into a bowl, beat it slightly, and add it gradually to the flour. Put in the flavoring, and beat the whole mixture with an egg-beater for five minutes. Bake from twenty to thirty minutes in a moder- ate oven. It may be baked in an oblong, shallow pan; when done turn it out, spread jelly or jam over it, and roll it up to make a jelly-roll. If baked in round, shallow pans, it can be made into a layer cake, with jelly, whipped -cream, fruit, co- coanut, or melted sweet chocolate between the layers. MOLASSES CAKE Va cupful sugar; % cupful butter; ^/g cup- ful molasses ; 1 egg ; 1 cupful milk ; 2% cupfuls flour ; 1 even teaspoonful cream tartar ; 1 heap- ing teaspoonful soda; 1 even tablespoonful mixed spice ; 1 tablespoonful vinegar, or lemon juice. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, and stir in the molasses. Sift in % cupful of 270 THE COOKING SCHOOL the flour. Beat tlie egg, mix it with the milk. Mix the cream tartar, soda, and spice with the flour, and add the flour and the milk alternately, stirring well to make a smooth dough. Stir in the vinegar or lemon juice and bake at once in gem-pans or in two shallow pans, or in a loaf- pan. By adding % cupful raisins, seeded and quartered, % cupful currants, and % cupful citron sliced, and all the fruit rubbed with flour, a good fruit cake may be made. By substitut- ing 1 tablespoonful ginger for the mixed spice, a good gingerbread may be made. BOILED FROSTING 1 cupful granulated sugar; % cupful milk; 2 tablespoonfuls cocoa, and 1 even teaspoonful butter. Stir together, and boil, without stirring, four minutes. Remove from the fire and beat with an egg-beater until it begins to thicken; then spread it. at once over cold cake. This makes a creamy frosting, which does not dry and crumble, but stays on the cake. If it does not thicken readily when beaten, boil it for two or three minutes again. If desired, the frosting may be made, beaten until thick and sugary, and set away. When wanted for use, the pan containing it may be set into boiling water, and the mixture may be CAKE-MAKING 27J melted so that it can be spread on the cake. If flavoring is desired, % teaspoonful vanilla or lemon may be added, with or without the cocoa. EGG FROSTING Beat the white of an egg, and beat into it, gradually, enough powdered sugar to make a soft paste. Add y^ teaspoonful lemon extract, or 1 teaspoonful lemon or orange juice, or % teaspoonful vanilla, and spread it on the cake. If desired, 2 tablespoonfuls melted chocolate, or 2 tablespoonfuls desiccated cocoanut may be niixed with it. The yolk of the ^^^ may be used instead of the white to make Sunshine Frosting. PLAIN PEOSTING 1 cupful pulverized sugar; 1 tablespoonful lemon or orange juice ; 3 tablespoonfuls or more of boiling milk or water. Mix the sugar and fruit-juice, and stir in the boiling liquid, adding enough to make a soft paste. Spread it over the cake. This frosting may be varied by adding different ingredients as directed in the other recipes. LESSON XXXI PEESEEVES Home-made jam is both a convenience and a luxury. When well and carefully made it is not only superior to that which is usually offered for sale, but very much more economical also, and no store-closet -can be said to be well filled which does not boast a goodly show of neatly labelled jars of preserves. In making jam, the first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, sound, scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day^ as it will then possess its finest flavor. The best sugar is the cheapest ; indeed, there is no econ- omy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality oi necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the jam will not keep unless a suf- ficient proportion of sugar is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a proportion of sugar will destroy the natural flavor of the fruit, and in all probability make the jam candy. The sugar should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is mixed with the fruit 272 PRESERVES 273 If it is left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must depend in , every instance on the nature of the fruit, and will be found in the several recipes throughout this work. Fruit is generally boiled in a brasss or copper pan, uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place the pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the jam burn to the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed upon a stove-plate, it should be hung a little dis- tance above the fire. Glass jars are much the best for jam, as through them the condition of the fruit can be observed. Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined every three weeks for the first two months, and if there are any signs of either mould or fer- mentation, it should be boiled over again. The best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over the top a piece of writing-paper or tissue paper which has been dipped in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a drum. The strict economist may use gum dissolved in water instead of white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. Jam 274 THE COOKING SCHOOL should be stored in a cool, dry place, but not in one into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a tendency to make the fruit go mouldy, and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but the generally approved plan is to let the fruit grow cold before covering it. In making jam, continual watchfulness is required, as the result of five minutes' inattention may be loss and disappointment. There are other ways of pre- serving fruit besides making it into jam, such as drying, bottling, and candying. The recipes for jams and these other processes will be given in their proper places. LESSON XXXII NUTS Nuts are the fruits of trees and shrubs which have the seed inclosed in a bony or woody cover- ing, not opening when ripe. Some kinds are dupraceous, something between a stone fruit and a nut. These fruits form the principal articles of food to many people in different countries. They are very palatable, full of nutrition, and easily digested. They form the milk, meat, and butter of the vegetarians, who are increasing in numbers every year in this country. We have generally overlooked the nut as a principal article of diet, contenting ourselves with serv- ing them after dessert. They should, however, not be eaten at this stage of a dinner, for they contain the same ingredients as the dinner which has gone before, in concentrated form, and the generally resulting uncomfortable feel- ing that you experience under such conditions is really due to the fact that, whether you know it or not, you have eaten two dinners or the best part of two. 275 276 THE CCX)KING SCHOOL Like all foods nuts are divided into classes, and like other articles of diet they are nitrog- enous and carbonaceous. Among those containing nitrogenous matter are the peanut, pecan, English walnut, almonds, and hickory nuts. Black-walnuts and cocoa- nuts are in the other class, rich in oil. Some kinds, such as the chestnut, should always be cooked when used as food, on account of the starch they contain. The almonds and peanuts, which are used all over the world, contain all the necessary elements for building up the tis- sues of the body, and enter largely into modern methods of cooking, the principal uses being salted almonds, almond butter, etc. The recipes in which nuts are used will be found under the regular heading as arranged in the alphabetical index. LESSON XXXIII DESSERTS Unlike the Englishman, who confines the word dessert to fruits and nuts, and would call what we talk about here " sweets " pure and simple, we Americans make the term embrace everything that is served at the close of the meal, and this idea has become so firmly fixed that even Webster defines the word as — " A service of pastry, fruit, or sweetmeats at the close of an entertainment; the last course at the table after meat. ' ' We shall not, however, class pastry in this division of the art of cook- ery. Not because it does not come within the definition of the term as given by Webster's Dictionary, but because it ought to stand alone in a division by itself, covering the idea that it would be good for the health of America if more of us left it alone. There is not much to say about the subject of desserts in general. There are hardly any gen- eral rules to be laid down in making the class of " sweets " in this division. They are ihdivid- 277 278 THE COOKING SCHOOL ual dishes, and must be made according to the individual recipes. The average American girl, when she comes to face the fact that she doesn't know how to broil; boil, or bake meat, bread, or vegetables, omits the fact that she knows something about making " sweets," for it is the province of every girl to know about them, and she at least may consider herself no cook, even if she is well up on " sweets." For the benefit of those, however, if any, who know not the how and when of such little delicacies as ice creams, ices, and short cakes, refer to the alphabetical index for a very comprehensive list of recipes in this division which are many of them suited to the beginner, easily made, and will enable to bring forth a new one every day. LESSON XXXIV COOKERY FOR INVALIDS LIQUID POQDS Food for invalids should be in such a form •hat it can be easily digested. All food is changed into a liquid, before it can be carried about by the blood, to build up the worn-out tis- sues. Food that is ^n a liquid form is, there- fore, quickly digested with the least possible work to the body. Drinks made from fruit- juices contain some mineral matter and acids which are wholesome for the blood. Used cold, they refresh the body and sometimes help to create an appetite for more nourishing food; used hot, they help to induce perspiration, which often assists in breaking up an attack of illness. Jellies are other preparations of fruit-juices, and are qlassed as liquid food, since they melt in the mouth. Some jellies are hardened by the gummy pectine in the fruit-juice, and others by gelatine, which is prepared from bones and ani- mal tissues. 279 280 THE COOKING SCHOOL GBUELS Gruels are semi-liquid preparations of grains. They contain the nourishing properties of the grains without the bran or solid parts. Their advantages are that they are rapidly and easily digested. They should be well stirred and boiled to cook every starch-grain and to soften the gluten, TEA Tea consists of the leaves and small stems of a plant growing in China, Japan, and other countries. Green tea is dried quickly, therefore it keeps its color. Tea, being stimulating in its effects, is not a wholesome drink for young people. The leaves contain tannin, which, if taken into the stomach in any quantity, will, in time, harden the lining membrane. Boiling the leaves in water draws out the tannin, therefore tea should never be boiled, but steeped about five minutes. The tannin or tannic acid acts on tin, produc- ing a poison. COFFEE Coffee is a native of warm countries. It is prepared from the seed of a fruit which re- sembles a cherry. It is a stimulant and contains COOKERY FOR INVALIDS 281 tannin. Coffee is sometimes boiled, but is more wholesome if filtered. BEEP-TEA Brotb or beef -tea is a way of cooking meat by wMch all the juice is drawn out. It is cooked in a double boiler, that it may not boil and harden the albumen, making it indigestible. It is strained" through a coarse strainer so that the brown sediment, which is the albumen, may be used with the juice. It should have no fat. If any rises on the top of the tea, wipe it off by passing soft, clean paper over the surface of the liquid. MILK AS POOD FOE INVALIDS Milk is a wholesome liquid food for invalids. It is varied by serving in many ways. It con- tains all the substances which are necessary for the body in the proper proportions. Ice cream is a pleasant form of milk food. It is frozen by using ice or snow and rock-salt. Salt gathers moisture. When it is mixed with ice it gathers moisture from the ice, thus caus- ing it to melt. The ice in malting absorbs heat from thfe cream, thus causing the cream^ to freeze. The ice will not melt with sufficient rapidity to freeze the cream without the as- sistance of the salt. ^ THE COOKING SCHOOL TOAST Toasted bread is wholesome if it is thor- oughly dried over the fire and browned. If starch is mixed with water and heated to a high degree, it changes to a gammy substance called dextrin, which is digestible. In a slice of bread, part of the starch is changed to dex- trin, and in toasting, if it is well dried and browned, the starch is largely changed. When the bread is browned, the dextrin changes to a starch-sugar, called dextrose, which is readily absorbed by the body. If toast is dry, and is masticated thoroughly, the saliva helps to di- gest the dextrin. LEMON JELLY 1/4 box gelatine ; 14 cupful cold water ; 1 cupful boiling water; 1 cupful sugar; 1% lemon, rind and juice. Soak the gelatine in the cold water twenty minutes. Pour on the boiling water, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved. Add the sugar, the juice of the lemon, and the thin, yellow rind. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and strain through a piece of clean cheesecloth, into a cold, wet mould. Set in a cold place to harden. If put in a very cold place, it will harden in one hour. If it can be allowed to harden, four or CCX)KERY FOR INVALIDS 283 five hours, or overniglit, the recipe may be doubled, with the exception of the gelatine and cold water, so that twice as much jelly, of a softer consistency, may be made from the same .amount of gelatine. By substituting for the lemon, 1 orange, i/4 cup currant juice, or % cup juice of apricots, different jellies may be made from this recipe. If the jelly does not stiffen, soak two tablespoon- fuls more of gelatine in 2 tablespoonfuls cold water, heat the jelly until it begins to boil, stir it into the soaked gelatine, and cool. Try the experiment again if it does not succeed the first time. miSH-MOSS JELLY % cup Irish Moss ; 2 figs; 1 cup boiling water; 1 lemon and orange ; Vg cup sugar. Soak, pick over, and wash the moss. Cut the figs in small pieces, pare a thin rind from the lemon or orange. Place the moss, figs, and rind in a saucepan, pour on the boiling water, and boil, stirring constantly for ten or fifteen minutes, until the liquid thickens. Add the sugar and fruit- juice, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and press the mixture through a fine wire strainer into a cold, wet mould. Set in cold water. As soon as it becomes cold it will harden. 284 THE COOKING SCHOOL LEMONADE * 1 lemon; 2 tablespoonfuls sugar; 1 cup boil- ing water. Pour the boiling water into a bowl and cover it. Squeeze the lemon and add tbe juice and the sugar to the water. Cover and set away to cool. When desired for use strain, add sugar if wished, dilute with cold water or small pieces of ice. This may be served as a hot drink when first prepared. If sugar is added to suit the taste, and the mixture is frozen, it makes a good sherbet or water-ice. Cold water may be used instead of the boiling water. APPLE WATER 1 apple ; 1 tablespoonful sugar ; 1 strip lemon- peel ; 1 cup boiling water. Wipe a large, sour apple — a red one is best — .and, without paring, cut it into thin slices. Put them into a bowl, add the lemon-peel, sugar, and boiling water. Cover, and set away to cool. Strain, and serve with small pieces of ice float- ing in it. KHUBAEB WATEE 1 small stalk rhubarb; 1 strip lemon-peel; 1 tablespoonful sugar ; 1 cupful boiling water. Wash the rhubarb, cut in half-inch lengths. Put into a bowl, add the peel, sugar, and boiling COOKERY FOR INVALIDS 285 water. Cover and set away to cool. Strain, and serve cold. The peel may be omitted. OATMEAL GBUBL 1 tablespoonful rolled oats; 1 cup boiling water ; 14 teaspoonful salt. Pick over tbe oatmeal. Put it into a sauce- pan, pour on tbe boiling water, add the salt, and boil, stirring often, fifteen or twenty minute,s or longer. If it becomes very thick, add a little boiling water, boil it up again, and when de- sired to serve, strain it quickly into a warm bowl, cover, and serve with sugar and milk on the tray. WHEATENA GRUEL 1 cupful boiling water; 2 tablespoonfuls wheatena; % teaspoonful salt. Put the water and salt in a saucepan, and when boiling stir in the wheatena. Boil, and stir well ten or twenty minutes or longer. Then,' if necessary, as directed in the recipe above, strain into a hot bowl or cup, and serve in the same way as oatmeal gruel. MILK POEEIDGE 1 tablespoonful boiling water; 1 cupful milk; % teaspoonful salt; % tablespoonful flour. Put the boiling water in an uncovered pan. Add the milk and salt. Mix the flour to a 286 THE COOKING SCHOOL smooth paste with, a little cold milk, and when the milk boils stir in the flour paste and boil five minutes, stirring constantly. Strain into a cup and serve. The porridge may be varied by adding i^ teaspoonf ul butter when the porridge is ready to strain. TEA 1 even teaspoonful tea ; 1 cupful freshly boil- ing water. Heat a china teapot by pduring boiling water into it. Let it stand a moment, pour out the water, put in the tea, add the freshly boiling water, and let the tea stand on the table, covered, to steep five minutes. Never boil tea. Cover it, while steeping, with a towel or tea- cosey, to keep it hot. HOW TO PREPABB AN OEANGE POB AN INVALID Take- a firm, juicy orange', and, with a sharp knife, take off a thick paring, cutting through to the pulp. Cut out each section of pulp, being careful not to take any of the membranes, re- move the seeds, and lay the sections on a pretty saucer. Sprinkle fine sugar over them, and small pieces of ice. TOAST Cut stale bread in slices quarter-inch thick, or in strips one inch wide. Lay the pieces in a wire COOKERY FOR INVALIDS 287 toaster, and hold them at a little distance from the fire, turning them often so as to dry them well. When dry, hold them nearer the fire, and toast both sides until golden-brown. WATER-TOAST Place a pan, containing 1 pint boiling water and % teaspoonful salt, on the stove. Prepare slices of toast as above, dip them quickly in the boiling water, lay them on a hot dish, spread with butter, and serve hot. MILK-TOAST % tablespoonful butter; ^2 tablespoonful corn starch, or % tablespoonful flour; 1 cup milk, scalded; 1/2 teaspoonful salt. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the dry, corn starch or flour, stir well, and cook three minutes. Add part of the milk, boil, and stir to make the mixture smooth, add more milk and stir constantly. When all the milk is added, boil once, and put in the salt. Pour this sauce between each slice of toast and over the whole. Serve in a hot dish. If th© toast is preferred soft, dip the slices in boiling salted water, be- fore adding the sauce. ICE CKBAM 1 cupful cream or milk; 4 teaspoonfuls sugar; 1 even tablespoonful melted chocolate, or 1 288 THE COOKING SCHOOL tablespoonful strawberries, or % teaspoonful lemon extract. Mix the sugar and cream. Melt the chocolate, and add a little of the cream to it, so that it will be thin enough to pour into the remainder of the cream. Put the mixture into a pail with a tight cover, and set this inside a larger pail or pan. Beat the cream, with an egg-beater, until foamy. Fill the space between with pounded ice and rock-salt, using 3 cupfuls ice to 1 cupful salt. Turn the small pail back and forth. Open it oc- casionally, being careful that na salt falls in, and scrape the cream from the sides. Cover and turn again, and repeat this process until the cream is hard. It will freeze, usually, in twenty minutes. ■, If strawberries are used, instead of chocolate, crush them, before adding them to the cream. If the cream is hot intended for a sick person, it may be flavored with "14 teaspoon vanilla. Water-ices and soft custard may be frozen in a pail in the same manner. EGGNOGG OK GRUEL 1 egg; 1 tablespoonful sugar; % cupful milk 5 sprinkle salt ; sprinkle nutmeg. Beat the yolk of the egg, add the sugar and mix. Scald the milk with the salt and nutmeg. Beat the white until slightly foamy, but not COOKERY FOR INVALIDS 369 stiff, stir the milk into the yolks, and beat in the white lightly. Serve in a pretty cnp. If the eggnogg is preferred cold, the milk need not be scalded. STEAMED CUSTAED 1 egg; 1 tablespoonful sugar; 1 cupful milk; sprinkle salt; sprinkle nutmeg. Beat the egg slightly, add the other ingredi- ents. Fill cups three-iquarters full of the mix- ture, stand them in a steamer over boiling waterj and steam from ten to twenty minutes, until firm. Watch the custard closely to see that it does not cook too long, so that it looks like curds and whey. BEEF-JUICE Scrape % pound lean, juicy beef to a fine pulp. Put into a double boiler, with cold water in the lower part, and heat gradually, keeping it simmering one hour, or until the meat is white. Strain and press out the juice, season with salt to taste, and serve hot. BEEF-TEA Shred % pound -lean, juicy beef, and place in a double boiler with 1 cup cold water and 1/2 teaspoonful salt. Let it stand from one-half to 1 hour, then put boiling water in the lower part of the boiler, and cook five or ten minutes, until 290 THE COOKING SCHOOL the juice looks brown. Strain, arl serve the juice hot, in a pretty cup. lEISH-MOSS BLANCMANGE , 14 cup Irish moss ; 1 pint milk ; i/g teaspoonful salt; 1 tablespoonful sugar; sprinkle nutmeg, or 1 inch lemon-rind. Soak, pick over, and wash the moss. Put it, with the milk, salt, and nutmeg, into the top of the double boiler. Cook from fifteen to thirty minutes, until it thickens, and will harden, if a little is dropped on a cold plate. Strain into a cold, wet mould, and set away to cool and harden. Serve with sugar, and milk, or cream, COEN-STAECH BLANCMANGE 2 cups milk; 3 tablespoonfuls sugar; 4 even tablespoonfuls corn starch, 2 sprinkles salt; 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate melted, -or 2 table- spoonfuls strawberries. Scald the milk in a double boiler. Add the sugar and salt, the chocolate, or the fresh, mashed strawberries, or preserved berries. Mix the corn starch with a little cold milk, stir it into the hot milk, and boil and stir it five or ten minutes, until it is smooth and thick. Pour the mixture into cold, wet cups or moulds. Serve cold, with sugar and milk, or cream. COOKERY FOR INVALIDS 29J COLD CUSTAED, OB JUNKET 1 quart new sweet milk; 1 tablespoonful sugar ; 1 tablespoonful liquid rennet. Warm the milk a little, then stir in the sugar and rennet, and pour the mixture into a glass or china dish a»nd set it where it will keep a little warm. If, at the end of an hour, it has not begun to harden, stir in 1 teaspoonful rennet ; it should be firm in one or two hours. Set on ice to become cold. Sprinkle with sugar and cin- namon and serve with cream. It should be eaten within an hour after it has hardened, or it will separate into curds and whey. LESSON XXXV MISCELLANEOUS INFOEMATION MEASURES Cup. — A common coffee-cup is the standard. A cup of liquids is half a pint. A cupful of but- ter, packed solid, is 7% ounces. A cupful of corn meal is 5 ounces. A cupful of stemmed currants, heaped up, is 6 ounces. A level cupful of flour is 4 ounces; 4 cups make 1 pound or quart. A cupful of lard is 8 ounces ; 2 cupfuls of lard are 1 pound or quart. A cupful of milk is 8 ounces. A cupful of molasses is 12 ounces. A cupful of oatmeal, level, is 6 ounces. A cup- ful of stemmed raisins is 8 ounces, or % pound. A cupful of granulated sugar, level, is 7 ounces. A rounded cupful is 1/2 pound. A cupful of brown sugar, level, is 6 ounces. A cupful of water is 8 ounces. Four level cupfuls of flour are 1 pound or 1 quart. 2 cupfuls of but- ter, packed solid, are 1 pound. % cupful of butter is % pound. 3 cupfuls of corn meal are 1 pound. 2% cupfuls of powdered sugar are 1 pound. 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar are 1 pound. 2 cups are 1 pint. 4 cups are 1 quart. 1 cup is equal to 4 wineglassfuls. 292 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 293 Tablespoon. — 14 full tablespoonfuls of liquid make 1 cup, or % piut. 1 tablespoonful of dry material is 3 teaspoonfuls. 4 tablespoonfuls are 1 wineglassful. 8 heaping tablespoonfuls of solids are 1 cupful. 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour are 1 ounce. 1 heaping tablespoonful of the spices make 1 ounce. 2 tablespoonfuls of liquid make 1 ounce. 2 rounded tablespoon- fuls of coffee make 1 ounce. 2 rounded table- spoonfuls of sugar make 1 ounce. 1 large table- spoonful of butter is 2 ounces. Teaspoonful. — 3 teaspoonfuls of solids make 1 tablespoonful. 4 teaspoonfuls of liquids are 1 tablespoonful. 1 heaping teaspoonful of spice is 1/4 ounce. 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of mustard are i/4 ounce. 1 teaspoonful of soda: is % ounce. 1 teaspoonful of salt is % ounce. 1 teaspoon- ful of pepper is % ounce. 3 level teaspoonfuls of tea are % ounce. 1 teaspoonful of liquid is 1/4 ounce. 1 teaspoonful of liquid is 30 drops. 4 cups of liquid make 1 quart. 2% cups powdered sugar 1 pound, or 1 quart. 1 pint of milk or water 1 pound. 1 pint of chopped meats 1 pound. 9 large or 10 medium eggs 1 pound. 1 round tablespoonful of butter 1 ounce. 1 piece butter size of egg 1 ounce. 1 flask of olive oil 1% cups, or 20 tablespoonfuls. 1 small flask of Foss' Extract 12 teaspoonfuls. 1 small flask of Foss' Extract % cup, or scant 3 table- 294 THE COOKING SCHOOL spoonfuls. 1 flask of brandy II/2 cup, or 24 tablespoonfuls. 1 flask of wine 3 cups, or 48 spoonfuls. TABLE OF AVERAGE COST OF MATERIAL USED IN COOKING 2 teaspoonfuls of tea 01 1 teaspoonful of vaailla 02 1 teaspoonful of spice 03 1 teaspoonful of soda, and 2 teaspoonfuls of cream- tartar 02 1 tablespoonf ul of butter 03 1 taoxespoonful of wine 02 1 tabJespoonful of brandy 04 1 tablespoonful of olive oil 02 2 tablespoonfuls of co£fee . . ' 05 Butter size of an egg 05 1 orange 03 legg 03 1 lemon 02 1 cup of flour or meal 01 1 cup of sugar 03 1 cup of butter 15 to .20 1 cup of 1 molasses 05 1 cup of milk 02 1 quart of milkman's cream 36 1 quart of Deerfoot or heavy cream 60 1 box gelatine 16 1 pound of raisins 18 1 pound of currants 10 1 pound of citron 18 1 pound of crackers 10 1 pound of tapioca 07 1 pound of rice 09 1 pound of macaroni 18 1 pound of spaghetti 16 1 pound of corn starch 10 MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 295 1 pound of tea 60 1 pound of coffee 38 1 pound of chocolate 40 i pound of butmeg 20 i pound of mace o . . .40 i pound of cloves, cassia 15 i pound of ginger , 10 i pound of mustard .12 i pound of herbs, ground ...... .10 1 tumbler jelly . . .35 1 jar marmalade < .25 Package of whole herbs .08 1 pound of cheese 18 1 pound of Parmesan cheese £0 1 peck of potatoes J25 1 peck of apples .- 50 1 quart of onions 10 1 carrot OS 1 turnip 02 1 bunch of celery IS 1 handful of parsley 05 1 bunch of watercress 05 1 head of lettuce 10 1 can of tomatoes 15 1 can of salmon 18 1 can of lobster 25 1 can of devilled ham and tongue ... . .30 TIME TABLE FOE COOKING BAKING Baking Bread, Cake, Puddings, Meats, etc. Loaf Bread ^ . 40 to 60 minutes Eolls, Biscuit 10 to 20 minutes Graham Gems 30 minutes Gingerbread 20 to 30 minutes Sponge Cake 45 to 6p minutes Plain Cake 30 to 40 minutes Fruit Cake 2 to 3 hours 296 THE COOKING SCHOOL Cookies 10 to 15 minutes Bread Pudding ... ... J hour Bice and Tapioca Pudding 8 houxs Indian Pudding 2 to 3 hours Plum Pudding 2 to 6 houra Custards 15 to 20 minutes Steamed Brown Bread . . ... . .3 hours Steamed Puddings 1 to 3 hours Pie Crust about 30 minutes Potatoes 30 to 45 minutes Baked Beans 6 to 8 hours Braised Meat 3 to 4 hours Scalloped Dishes 15 to 20 minutes Beef, Sirloin, rare, per lb. . . . 8 to 10 minutes Beef, Sirloin, well done, per lb. . . 12 to 15 minutes Beef, rolled Rib or Rump . . • . 12 to 15 minutes Beef, long or short Fillet . . . 20 to 30 minutes Mutton, rare, per lb. 10 minutes Mutton, well done, per lb 15 minutes Lamb, well done, per lb. .... 15 minutes Veal, well done, per lb. . . . . .20 minutes Pork, well done, per lb 30 minutes Turkey, 10 lbs. weight 3 hours Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs 1 to 14 hours Goose, 8 lbs 2 hours Tame Duck 40 to 60 minutes Game Duck 30 to 45 minutes Grouse 30 minutes Pigeons 30 minutes Small Birds 15 to 20 minutes Venison, per lb 15 minutes Fish, 6 to 8 lbs., long thin fish .... 1 hour Fish, 4 to 6 lbs, thick Halibut . . . . 1 hour Pish, smajl 20 to 30 minutes FRYING Croquettes, Fish-Balls 1 minutft Doughnuts, Fritters . . . . 3 to 5 minutes MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 297 Bacon, small Fish, Potatoes 2 to 5 minutes Breaded Chops and Fish . . 5 to 8 minutes BROILING Steak, 1 inch thick 4 minutes Steak, 1^ inches thick 6 minutes Small, thin fish S to 8 minutes Thick fish 12 to 16 minutes Chops, broiled in paper . . . . 8 to 10 minutes Chicken . ■ « 30 minutes Liver, Tripe, Bacon 3 to 8 minutes BOILING Water, 1 quart, over gas, covered ... 4 minutes Water, 1 quart, over gas, uncovered , . 6 minutes Coffee . . . . .1 . . 3 to 5 minutes Tea, steep without boiling .... 5 minutes Corn meal 3 hours Hominy, fine 1 hour Oatmeal, coarse, steamed 3 hours Oatmeal, rolled 30 minutes Bice, steamed 45 to 60 minutes Rice, boiled 15 to 20 minutes Wheat Granules 20 to 30 minutes Eggs, soft-boiled ^ . . . . 3 to 6 minutes Eggs, hard-boiled 15 to 20 minutes Eggs, coddled 6 to 8 minutes Fish, long, whole, per lb. . . . 6 to 10 minutes Fish, cubical, per lb. 15 minutes Clams, Oysters 3 to 5 minutes Beef, corned or k la mode . . . . 3 to 5 hours Soup Stock 3 to 6 hours Veal, Mutton 2 to 3 hours Tongue . . . i • • • . 3 to 4 hours Potted Pigeon 2 hours Ham 5 hours Sweetbreads 20 to 30 minutes Sweet Com 5 to 8 minutes Asparagus, Tomatoes, Peas . . . 16 to 20 minutes 20 298 THE COOKING SCHOOL Macaroni, Potatoes, Spinach . . . 30 to 30 minutes Squash, Celery, Cauliflower . . . 20 to 30 minutes Sprouts, Greens 20 to 30 minutes Cabbage, Beets, young . . . . 30 to 45 minutes Parsnips, Turnips 30 to 45 minutes Carrots, Onions, Salsify . . . . 30 to 60 minutes Beans, string and shell 1 to 2 hours Brown Bread 3 hours Puddings, 1 quart, steamed 3 hours Puddings, small 1 hour Freezing Ice Cream 30 minutes COMBINATIONS With oysters and clams, wMcli must always be served in their own shells, very cold, and on ice: a quarter of lemon, horseradish. Tabasco, oyster crackers. With consomme or clam soup : bread sticks, or crispettes. With chowders : pilot or water biscuit. With macaroni : grated Parmesan cheese or tomatoes. With prunes or cream soup : toasted sippets or croutons. With broiled fish: lemon, drawn butter, and parsley. With fried fish: potatoes Parisienne, boiled or creamed potatoes, tartare sauce, lemon, pars- ley, and potatoes fried in various ways. With baked fish : lemon, parsley, and the ac- companying gravy. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION 299 Boiled fish : egg sauce or HoUandaise, boiled potatoes. With all fish it is customary to serve hot, crisp tolls. Salad with fish : Cucumber salad, with French dressing, served with lany fishj is a palatable ac- companiment. With raw oysters or clams: cabbage, salad with French dressing. With lobster : lettuce salad, French dressing. Amor^ side dishes, placed on the table before guests' are seated,, are celery stalks, sweetr pickle, gherkins, or olives. With entrees;: Entrees are nearly always served with the appropriate sauce; peas, mushrooms, tnrfies, and crisp bread being an accompaniment. Roasts : With roasts serve potatoes and one or more green vegetables selected from the follow- ing : peas, cauliflower, string beans, young car- rot, lima beans, brussels sprouts, beets, hot as- paragus, corn, parsnips, egg plant, turnip, spinach, cabbage, baked or scalloped tomatoes, kale. Potatoes, boiled, baked, pan-browned, mashed, fried, afford a selection, and frequently baked squash, Yorkshire pudding, corn meal, or hominy croquettes take the place of potatoes. With boiled beef or pot roast: boiled pota- toes, baked squash, boiled turnip, carrots, or cabbage. 300 THE tl|.e meat, and set aside to use for hash, meat balls, etc. When ready to make the soup, heat and strain, add any vegetables liked, season more highly, according to taste» or clear with . egg and serve as a consomme or bouillon. Made in- this way the stock can be used a.s a SOUPS sn basis for any soup, and the meat will retain the goodness and flavoi. It is also made with less trouble than many soups. Beef Tea -Noi 1 Take from 1 to 2 pounds of lean beef from the rump; cut off every particle of fat, and cut the meat into dice. Put it into a bottle and cork tightly. Tie down the cork, if neces- sary. Or it may be put in a fruit jar with a screw top and tightly sealed. Put the bottle in a deep saucepan with cold water enough to reach at least two-thirds to the top of the bottle; let it heat slowly, and boil Wenty min- utes or thirty. By this time the juice should be well extracted from the meat. Strain off the liquor and season with salt and pepper as re- quired. Beef Tea-No. 2 1 pound meat, 1 pint cold water. The meat should be juicy, having as little fat as possible. After removing the skin and all the fat, cut the meat into small pieces, and put into a bowl with the water. Let stand for several hours in a cool place, until the meat has parted with its juices. Then heat slowly until it be- comes steaming hot; remove from the fire and strain, to remove the meat. Cool quickly as possible, in order not to absorb any odors from the room. Serve hot or cold, seasoning it when 312 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH used. If reheated, care must be taken to heat no more than to steaming point. Brunoise Soup Slice equal quantities of carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery, and fry until brown, in plenty of butter. Put them in a saucepan and pour over stock enough to about half cover, and boil briskly until it is reduced to a paste. Pour in sufficient clear soup to make the desired quan- tity, and bring to a boil. Prepare some Italian paste, boil it separately and mix it with the soup, or use boiled rice with rings of turnip sliced and fried brown in butter. Serve very hot with croutons of bread. Chicken Soup with Leeks and Onions Cut white meat of chicken into dice and brown them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter and a sliced onion. Pour over them three pints of chicken consomme, add 3 leeks sliced, a sprig of parsley, and 2 or 3 celery tops. Season with salt and pepper, and half a blade of mace. Boil half an hour, remove the pars- ley, celery top, and mace, and serve with sip- pets of fried bread. Chicken Soup Quickly Made Cut the meat of half a chicken in small pieces. Slice a smaU onion, put it in a saucepan with a SOUPS 3»3 tablespoonful of butter, when hot add the chicken and fry together for ten or fifteen minutes, turning the chicken around often until well browned. Add 3 pints of consomme or good, clean, white stock, 3 tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice, a dash of cayenne, a teaspoon- ful of minced parsley, and salt as ne/eded. Sim- mer all together twenty minutes and serve. Clear Soup with Egg Balis Pee] and slice enough carrots, onions, and green leeks to make a pint; cut a small young cabbage into thin shreds, put all in a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, cover and put over a slow fire and cook until quite tender, shaking the pan or stirring carefully several times to be sure that they do not stick to the bottom of the pan. When the vegetables are cooked, pour over them 3 pints of clear stock and boil thirty minutes. To make the egg balls : Beat ^ of a pound of slightly softened butter until very creamy, then beat in slowly 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and 3 well-beaten eggs. Beat until very smooth. Strain the soup and return it to the saucepan, and when it boils roll the paste into small round balls with the hands, dipping them frequently in cold water to prevent the balls from sticking, drop them into the boiling soup and cook 21 3J4 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH steadily for fifteen miButes, pour into the soup tureen and serve. ConsommS Almond Blanch and chop fine two dozen almonds ; naix with an equal quantity stale bread crumbs; season with 1/2 saltspoonful salt, and add enough of the white of 2 eggs to bind the whole together; mix thoroughly, and form into tiny baUs, roll them in the remainiug white of egg, and drop iuto hot oil — not butter. If you do not use oil, take ordinary frying material — suet or lard. Shake till the balls are golden brown, lift with a skimmer, drain for an instant on soft browri paper, then put into tureen and turn over nicely seasoned hot stock. Calf's Foot Consomme Simmer 2 calf s feet and a quarter of a pound of veal in 3 quarts of water until it is reduced to 3 pints. Season with salt, a few blades of mace, and a little nutmeg. Strain through a colander, remove the fat, and place on ice to cool. Consomme Amber 3 pounds veal-knuckle; 3 pounds beef shin; 2 pounds young fowl; 2 medium-sized onions; 1 small carrot; 1 small turnip; 2 stalks celery with the tops ; 2 sprigs parsley ; 2 teaspoonfuls mixed sweet herbs; 2 blades mace; 6 whole ; ;. SOUPS - .... 3J5 cloves,; 6 iwrtiole allspice ; ^ teaspoonfuls salt ; 1 saltspoon wliite pepper; 1 bay leaf; 1 lemon; 3 egg whites and shejls; 4 quarts water. .^fi Wipe and cut, the meat in small pieces, crack all the bones; cut up and wash the cMcken. Put them all in the kettle with the cold water, let it stand half an hour, then heat slowly. When, boiling add the vegetables, chopped or sliced, the herbs and other seasoning, and sim- mer slowly six hours. By this time the meat should be in shreds and the bones clean. Strain and let it cool. When cold take off the fat, put on the fire, and while still cold add the egg whites and shells, and the lenion washed and sliced, and more salt, if necessary. Mix well, heat, and boil ten minutes. Strain thridii^ a napkin, wet- and laid inside a fine ,straiQer. It should be clear and of a beautiful amber ,/Qo^or. Just before, serving heat, and add 2 tablegpoou- fuls of sherry. If not colored enough, a,did,a very little caramel, or enough to give it the de- sired color. Serve a small. quantity only. To the amber consomme may be made many additions, changing the character and giving it the name of the principal addition. Consomm^ with Egg Balls 3 pints eonsomme ; 2 egg yolks, hard-boiled; 2 egg whites, beaten stiff. 316 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH The eggs may be separated and the yolks dropped carefully into boiling water and boiled hard. Mash them, add one-half as much cracker flour as egg, season with salt and cay- enne, moisten with cream, and bind with raw egg. Make into balls the size of marbles. Drop these into the boiling consomme, cook five minutes, add a dash of nutmeg and a table- spoonful of wine. Serve with sL spoonful of the stiffly beaten whites of egg on the top of each plate. Consommd with Brussels Sprouts Cook sufficient Brussels sprouts in salted water until tender, add them to 3 pints of con- somme amber. Consomm^ with Cucumber Peel and cut two cucumbers in dice, stew half an hour in salted water, drain, and add to the hot consomme. Serve with small croutons. Consomme with Asparagus Tips To 3 pints of hot consomme add 1 cup of asparagus tips cooked in salted water until tender, but not broken. Color a delicate green with spinach juice. Serve with soup sticks, rolled the size of the forefinger, and cut six inches in length ; bake a number of ^rings made by joining the ends of these pieces to SOUPS 3J7 make a circle, bake and serve one ring to each plate, filled with as many of, the sticks as the ring will hold easUy. Consommd with Vermicelli Break the vermicelli into pieces one and a half to three inches in length, cook in boiling salted water, blanch and simmer for fifteen minutes in the consomme. Allow a tablespoon- fnl of the vermicelli, before cooked, to each plate. Spaghetti or macaroni or any of the Italian paste? may be used instead of the vermi- celli. With spaghetti or macaroni sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese over the top of each plate, and serve at once. Consomm6 with Mushrooms Cut into small cubes enough mushrooms to make a pint. Saute them in butter, add to 3 pints of consomme, let them simmer fifteen minutes, add % glass of sherry and a little utmeg. Let it heat up, and serve. Marrow Balls for Consomm^ Mix together % cup soft bread crumbs with % cup chopped marrow; add 1 saltspOonful salt, % teaspoonful onion juice, and a dash of pepper J then stir in the yolk of an egg. Make into small balls, roll quickly in the white of an egg, and drop into boiling water. They will / 318 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH sink at first, but will soon come to the surface, and when they float, in two to three minutes — take out with skimmer into tureen, — ^then pour over the hot stock. Colbert Consomme Allow 1 egg to each person, and poach care- fully while the stock is being heated. When the hot consomme has been seasoned, tui'n into heated tureen, and gently drop in the poached eggs ; serve at once. Duchess- Consomm^ , Mix thoroughly,!/^ cup bread crumbs, % cup soft cheese, 1 egg, 1 saltsjpopnful salt, and a dash of cayenne; form into little balls, roll in egg and drop quickly into boiling water ; if put into the stock, it will become clouded. Take them up with skimmer, put into hot tureen, pour over them the boiling stock. Consomm^ d I'lmp^ratrice An Elaborate Dinner Soup Blend a tablespoonful each of butter and flour in a saucepan ; add -J cup milk, stir^ till it boils, and add i^ teaspoonful onion juice, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley, % saltspoonfuj mace, salt and pepper, and % cup chopped chicken; mix thoroughly and turn out tp; cool. At serving time make this intoi , small balls, SOUPS 3J9 roll in egg, and drop quickly into hot fat or oil, brown and drain on soft paper. Have % pint of fresh green peas and 4 tahlespoonfnls of rice carefully boiled, and put in soup tureen — ^turn in hot chicken consomme — drop in the force- meat balls, and serve at once. Cpnsotnm^ Chestnut Blanch two dozen chestnuts, cook till tender in a pint of stock; drain and salt slightly. After the chicken consomme has been turned into tureen, drop in the chestnuts carefully, as they are easily broken. Consommd Curry Cook a tablespoonful butter and a sliced onion slowly together without browning the butter; put this into soup-kettle with a large, sour apple cored and sliced without paring, a sprig of thyme and parsley, a bay leaf, a table- spoonful lemon juice, 1 level teaspoonful salt, and 1 teaspoonful curry powder. Stir all to- gether, and add 1 quart chicken stock; simmer gently ten minutes ; put 2 tablespoonf Uls boiled rice into tureen, strain over the hot soup, and serve at once. Consomme Spinach Wash the leaves from a pint of spinach, put into a dry kettle, and sprinkle with a saltspoon- 320 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH f ul of salt ; put at first over a moderate heat till the spinach, softens, then push over to a hotter part of the stove and stir for five minutes; drain, chop fiAe, and press through a sieve ; mix with this a well-beaten egg, a drop of Tabasco, and a saltspoonful salt. Put this into shallow pan, set it-in another of boiling water, and cook in the oven until solid. Cut into fancy shapes, put into soup tureen, and turn over the seasoned hot stock. Consommd with Tomato Blocks Use tomato conserve, or the thickest part of canned tomatoes, put through a sieve, and cook slowly to a thick paste. To a half -cup of this add a tiny bit of ground mace, 14 saltspoonful salt and Tabasco, and the slightly beaten white of 2 eggs; pour into shallow dish, stand in a pan of water, and cook in oven till well set ; cut into fancy blocks. Turn hot consomme into tureen and carefully drop in the blocks. This may be varied by substituting peas for the tomatoes, seasoning with celery seed and pepper instead of Tabasco. Consomme Royal Beat 1 egg thoroughly; add 2-tablespoonfuls clear stock, % teaspoonful onion juice, a salt- spoonful salt, and i/^ saltspoonful pepper. Mix SOUPS 321 well and turn into a small custard cup; stand this in a pan of hot water and cook in the oven till the custard is set, turn out, and cut into dice — or cook in a shallow pan and cut in fancy blocks ; put these into tureen and pour over hot seasoned stock. Consommd Printani^re Cut 2 small carrots and a turnip into fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter or scoops; sim- mer twenty minutes in salted water with an equal amount of asparagus tips and green peas. Drain, and put them into 3 pints of- clear stock; let it cook ten minutes longer; add more salt and pepper if needed, and serve. Cr6cy Soup Wash and scrape one large carrot ; shave off the outer part, leaving the core. Cook with an onion in boiling water until tender, then rub through a strainer. Add to 1 quart of hot stock, season with salt and pepper and a tea- spoonful of sugar. Serve with croutons. English Beef Soup Take 2V^ pounds of lean beef, cut off and lay aside about % of a pound, and pass the remain- der through the meat chopper. Pour over it 3 pints of cold water, let stand for half an hour, then heat gradually, and simmer for three 322 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH hours, then strain. Boil separately until tender 2 tablespoonfuls of fine barley and % of a cup- ful of diced carrot. Cut the reserved piece of meat into tiny pieces, peel and thinly slice one small onion, and brown with the meat in a spoonful of drippings. Add 1 scant cupful of finely cut celery and 1 cupful of boiling water and simmer for an hour. Stir in 2 tablespoon- fuls of flour smoothly mixed with cold water, add gradually the meat stock, and stir for a few moments. Briag to the boiling point, add the . previously cooked carrot and barley, % of a teaspoonful of Worcestershire, 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup, and salt and pepper to taste, then simmer for ten minutes longer. Giblet Soup Clean either chicken or goose or duck giblets, and cut the gizzard into 1/2-iiich cubes. Put all into a stewpan containing a small piece of lean ham cut iuto dice. Fry the giblets a few min- utes, then add 2 quarts of good stock, an onion stuck with cloves, thyme, or parsley; 2 sprigs of marjoram, a few celery seeds tied in a muslin bag, a teaspoonful of pepper. Simmer gently for two hours, then remove the giblets and put them into a tureen. Strain the .soup, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour cooked with one of butter until slightly browned. Let SOUPS 323 the soup boil for fifteen , minutes, then return the giblets long enough to get hot, and serve with toasted sippets. Hasty Soup * Mince together a pound, of lean beef, mutton, pr veal, a small turnip, a small carrot, half ah ' ounce of celery, the white part of a medium- sized leek, or a very small onion. Put into a deep saucepan with 3 pints of cold wiater. When the soup boils, take o&\ the scum and season with salt and pepper. It can be served j)^ith or without straining, and should be cOoked only about half an hour. A little catsup is ail addition. White Soup In this soup veal is substituted for chicken. Put a large' knuckle of veal in 3 quarts pf cold water over a slow fire; let it simmer for three hours ; skim often. Strain, and add a bay l^af , a carrot, a turnip, a blade of mace, a snaall ^ohion^ 2 cloves, a sprig of parsley, and a few stalks celery. Boil half an hour and strain. When it has jellied, take equal amounts of the jelly and cream, and use as in celeiy cream soup. Julienne Soup ,, ,^^ 2 quarts stock; 2 carrots; 1 turnip; 1; he^d •celery; 2 onions; 1 head cauliflower; 1 bead let- 324 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH tuce; 1/^ gill green peas; 1 pint asparagus heads. Pare and cut up all the vegetables, cut the celery into bits, the head of cauliflower into flowerets. Put them into a kettle, cover with. boUing water; boil fifteen minutes, then drain them in a colander. Melt the stock and bring to a boil, put the vegetables in, and simmer half an hour. Put the peas and asparagus heads into boiling water and simmer them for twenty minutes ; then drain to the boiling soup, then the lettuce cut into pieces or chopped, which should be cooked about ten minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste, and serve at once. Russian Julienne Soup Cut 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, a celery root, and 1 leek into dice. Shred 1 onion and 1 small cabbage. Cut also enough mushrooms to equal the whole of the other vegetables. Fry in a saucepan the leeks and onions in a little butter, taking care that they do not color. Put in all the other vegetables and the mushrooms, and cook gently until the moisture of the mush- rooms is drawn out. Pour over enough rich broth to nearly cover, and cookimtil quite thick; pour over 3 quarts of boiling broth and simmer for an hour longer, adding salt and pepper to taste, and a little fimely minced fennel. Now SOUPS 325 strain in sour cream enough to thicken, stirring briskly. To 1)6 strictly Eussian, this soup requires to be served accompanied by meat patties, rissoles, or croquettes. Left-over Soup Cut up the bones and trimmings from a 6- pound roast of beef, 2 cold mutton chops, the uncooked end of sirloin steak, and put over the fire in 4 quarts cold water, to which add 1 table- spoonful salt, 4 cloves, 4 peppercorns, a cold fried egg, 2 baked apples, a cup cold boiled onions, 2 stalks celery, and 1 tablespoonful mixed herbs. Let all simmer till the meat separates from the, bones, and the water is reduced one-half. Strain ; next morning remove the fat, heat stock to boiling point, warm with it 1 cup cold to- matoes or macaroni, and add more seasoning if needed. Mulligatawny Soup Mulligatawny is a very highly seasoned soup, hot with curry powder, and has the acid of some fruit, as lime, or lemon juice, or tart apple. It is said to be of Indian origin, the word meaning " pepper pot." 1 good-sized chicken; Ipoimd veal with bones, or a quart of veal stock; Yz cup cold ham, cut 326 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH fine; 1 carrot; 1 stalk celery; 2 onions; 1 cup tomatoes; 4 quarts water; 1 tart green apple; i pound sweet almonds; 1' teaspoon sugar; 3 or 4 cloves ; 3 or 4 pepper-corns ; 2 tea- spoonfuls salt ; 1 tablespoonful good tvutte,r or clear beef drippings ;. 2 teaspoopfuls chutney ; 1 or 2 drops Tabasco. Clean, joint, and cut up the chicken. Cut the veal in small pieces and crack the bones. Put into .the. soup-kettle with the chopped hanii, pottr the cold water over it, and let it come slowly to a boil. Slice the onion and fry a light brown in the butter or drippings. Slice the carrot, apple, celery, and tomatoes. Put these in the kettle, add the cloves and peppers. Mix the curry powder, salt, and sugar to a paste, moist- ening with a little lemon juice or the liquor from the soup. Add this and the lemon, cut in quarters and sliced. Pound the almonds to a paste in a mortar, moistening with milk. Strain this into the soup, and let aU simmer until the chicken is tender; remove the chicken and veal and cut the meat from the bone. Eeturn the bones to the kettle and continue to simmer until the bones are clean; then strain and skina. Put over the fire and add the meat cut in nice pieces; add the Tabasco and chutney and 2 tablespoons boiled rice. As soon as tlioroughly heated, serve. SOUPS 327 Onion Soup (Spanish) Peel and slice 3 large Spanisli onions; sep- arate them into rings and fry in a tablespoon- ful of butter until tender and slightly browned. Put them in a saucepan, add 2 quarts of water, and boil an hour ; season to taste with salt and pepper. Crumble the inside of a stale roll, sift and add to the soup, and boil for an hour longer. When just ready to serve, add the yolks of 2 eggs, beaten light, and mixed with 2 tablespoon- fuls of vinegar and a few spoonfuls of the soup, pouring in gradually and stirring briskly one way. Pour into the tureen, and serve at once. Oxtail Soup 1 large oxtail; 1 onion; 1 small slice fat salt pork or 1 tablespoonful beef drippings; 2 quarts water; 1 carrot; 1 stalk celery; 2 tea- spoonfuls salt ; 2 cloves ; 2 peppercorns, % salt- spoonful paprika; a sprig of parsley; a little thyme; a blade of mace. Wash and cut up the oxtail, separating at each joint; divide the thick parts into four. Slice the onion and the saute in the hot pork or beef drippings. When the onion begins to brown, put in half of the oxtail and brown. Put this with the other in the soup-kettle, add the cold water, and when it comes to a boil add the carrot, celery, parsley, mace, and thyme, the 328 SOUPS, CHOWDERS. AND HSH cloves, peppers, and salt, and let it simmer until the oxtail is tender and begins to fall from the bones. Lift out some of the nicest pieces of oxtail and remove the meat from the bones, cut it small, and set aside to be served in the soup. Strain the liquor, skim off the fat, add the pieces of meat, more salt if necessary, and a little paprika. Boil up and add half a glass madeira or port. Serve with soup sticks. This soup, if made carefully, should be clear. ■ If a thick soup is desired, brown a little of the fat in a saucepan, mix in very smoothly a table- spoon of flour, and stir in before putting in the piece of meat. It may also be varied by put- ting in the vegetables after the stock has been strained. They should then be diced and boUed in the stock until tender, but not broken. BROTHS Chicken Broth 1 good-sized chicken; 1 small onion; 2 table- spoonfuls rice ; 1 quart water ; 2 tablespoonfuls rich cream; 1 teaspoonful salt; % saltspoonful white pepper. Clean the chicken; cut up and separate it at the joints. Take off all the skin and fat. Put it in a saucepan with the sliced onion, cover with SOUPS 329 the water, bring to a boil, aud simmer slowly. Wben the chicken i^ tender take it out, slice q& the best parts of the meat, put the remainder back in the kettle with the salt and pepper, and simmer until the bones are clean; Strain, and remove all the fat. Have the rice well washed and soaked for half an hour in water enough to cover, put it in the broth, and cqok until the rice is tender. Add the cream, some of the nicest pieces of chicken, and more seasoning if necessary. Serve very hot with crisp, thin crackers. Mutton Broth 1 pound lean, juicy mutton; 1 small onion; 1 quart water ; 2 tablespoonfuls rice ; 1 tea- spoonful salt; % saltspoon pepper. A little cayenne or a veri^ little curry powder if liked. Rinse and wipe the mutton and cut into small pieces. If there are bones, crack them. Cover with the cold water and heat slowly. Add the onion and simmer until the meat is in rags. Strain, and when cool, remove every particle of fat. Eeturn to the fire, add the salt and other seasoning, and, as soon as it boUs, put in the rice, which has been well washed and soaked in cold water for half an hour. Simmer until the rice is tender, and serve with thin squares ©f. delicately browned toast. ; Z2 330 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH A little celery salt helps to overcome the mut- tony taste that is objectionable to some persons, but this is lessened by the addition of the onion, the flavor of which is lost in that of the mutton, Scotch Mutton Broth Soak 6 pounds mutton in water for an hour, then place in stewpan with three quarts of water. As soon as it boils skim, well, and then simmer for an hour and a half. Cut best end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with 2 bones in each ; take nearly all the fat off before put- ting it into the broth; skim the moment the meat boils, and every ten minutes afterward. Add 5 carrots, 5 turnips, and 2 onions, all cut up fine ; then stir in 4 tablespoonfuls of Scotch barley, and salt to taste. Let all stew together for three and a half hours. About half an hour before sending it to the table put in a little chopped parsley. Chicken Gumbo 1 chicken or old fowl; 2 slices breakfast bacon; 1 large onion; 1 pint okra, cut small; 1 cup green corn; 1 green pepper; 1 can or 1 quart tomatoes ; 2 quarts hot water ; 1 teaspoon salt ; % teaspoon pepper ; 1 bay leaf j 1 teaspoon curry; 1 tablespoonful gumbo filee powder. Dress and cut up the chicken ; wash and wipe SOUPS 33J it. Fry tlie sliced onion with the bacon until only slightly brown. Put this in the kettle with the chicken, pour in the water and cook until very tender, and the bones will fallout. Take the chicken out and remove all the bones, skim fat, and cut the meat in small bits. Strain the liquor through a coarse strainer, return the chicken, put in all the vegetables, the curry powder and bay leaf, and cook until the okra- begins to " rope "; then add the gumbo files powder. Serve with plain boiled rice or rice balls. The gumbo filee powder may be obtained in bottles at all first-class grocers '. Chicken Gumbo with Oysters Strain the liquor from one quart of oysters, scald and skim it, and add to the soup with the vegetables. Pick the oysters over and rinse them in cold water, and put them in the boiling soup just before serving, giving them time to plump, and serve immediately, without the rice or rice balls. Oyster Gumbo Put a Spanish onion in 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil, and cook till tender and slightly brown. Add 1 tablespoonful flour, 1 sweet chili peeled and chopped fine, and 1 pint okra. Cover for fifteen minutes, then add 100 drained oysters; 332 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH let this come quickly to a boil, put in 1 table- spoonful filee, turn into soup tureen, and serve with, nicely boiled rice. Gumbo Filde Soup Wash and slice a quart of okra, cook iu a pint of water till tender; while cooking prepare a fowl as for fricassee, and chop i/4 pound lean ham. Cook a sliced onion in 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil till brown, add the chicken and ham, stir till the chicken is slightly browned, then add a pint boiling water, and simmer till the chicken is perfectly tender. At serving time mix the okra (gumbo) with the chicken; add 50 oysters, drained; bring quickly to a boil. Moisten a tablespoonful of filee powder in a little of the soup, stir it into the whole, and serve. Do not let the soup boil after adding the powder. Salt and pepper to taste. This is one of the favorites taken from a pet list of Creole recipes. Irish Soup, or Balnamoon Skink Put a couple of fowls into a pot, and boil until their juices are thoroughly extracted and the broth is rich and good. One of the fowls may be trussed as for boiling and removed as soon as cooked; but they are best cut up when intended only for soup. When well cooked, strain the SOUPS 333 soup throTigli a colander into a clean saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, chives, and chopped onions. Add celery, lettuce, and, if in season, green peaS. Stew until the vege- tables are tender. 2 eggs, well beaten, added to a cup of cream and stirred into the soup, will ' greatly improve it. The trussed fowl is some- times served in the tureen with the soup. When sent to the table separately, thicken some of the broth and pour it over the fowl. Kale Brose Take an ox-heel, clean it thoroughly, and pour over it 5 pints of cold water ; simmer for four hours, removing the scum that rises to the top. Meanwhile take 2 large handfuls of greens, cleanse and free from insects, then shred finely, and put into the broth. When sufficiently cooked, stir % pint of toasted oatmeal into a little of the fat broth (this should be stirred in with the handle of a spoon, and stirred very quickly, so as to prevent it massing in one lump). Add to the rest, with pepper and salt to taste. Let all boil up together, and serve as hot as possible. For six people. 334 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH CREAM SOUPS An important point in preparing cream soups is to be sure the milk is absolutely fresh, and then, to guard against curdling, to drop into it a pinch of baking soda. A cream soup that is curdled is not pleasant, and should of course not be served. Do not let the soup boij after it is ready. Duchess Soup Slice 2 large onions and fry them ten minutes in 2 tabiespoonfuls of butter. Add gradually 2 tabiespoonfuls of flour and stir two or three minutes, or until smooth; then pour in slowly a quart of boiling mUk, season with salt and pepper, and let it simmer fifteen minutes, stir- ring frequently. Strain and return it to the fire, and add 2 tabiespoonfuls of grated Par- mesan cheese. Beat 3 eggs very light, pour them through a strainer into the soup; stir briskly for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Serve with toasted croutons or fried sippets. Almond Milk Soup Blanch % pound of almonds and brown in the oven; while crisp and hot, mash to a powder with a rolling pin. Scald 1 quart of milk, add a tablespoonful of butter rolled in a tablespoon- ftil of flour, and the almonds. Cook five min- SOUPS 335 ates, add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne, and serve hot with croutons. Peanuts may be used in the same manner ; or cook 1 cupful of shelled and blanched peanuts with % cupful of lentils for one hour, in liy^ quarts of water, adding a slice of onion, a spray of parsley, and a stalk of celery. When tender rub through a puree sieve and add salt and pep- per. Return to the fire and thicken with a tablespoonful of butter rolled in a tablespoon- ful of flour. Macedoine Soup Put in the bottom of a porcelain or agate saucepan as many thin slices of ham as will cover it. On top of this put a thick layer of chopped turnips, one of potatoes, and one of onions, in equal quantities. Add a few sprigs of parsley and a blade of mace. Pour over a quart of stock and simmer gently until reduced to a pulp. Strain the soup through a fine sieve ; return to the fire, season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, add a pint of hot cream ; stir until thoroughly hot, and serve in a tureen. Queen Soup Wash and stew a fowl for an hour with enough strong veal broth to cover the meat and a bunch of parsley. Eemove the fowl, cut the 336 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND HSH meat off, and take away the skin. Pound the flesh in a mortar and add some bread crumbs, that have been soaked in the liquor, and the yolks of 5 hard-boiled eggs. Eub this through a course s^eve, then add a quart of scalded cream. Cream Cheese Soup— No. 1 Pl^ee a pint of v§al stock over the fire; add an onion, and boil for fifteen minut;es. Strain out the onion, and return the stock to the fire. Bring a pint of milk to the scalding point, thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed into one of butter ; season with celery salt and white pepper, and add to the veal stock. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until they are light, stir into the veal stock with the thickened milk, add 4 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and serve. Cream Cheese Soup— No. 2 Stir together in a saucepan 1 scant cupful of flour, ^ pint of rich cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and the same amount of butter, with a sprinkling of cayenne. Set the saucepan in a pan of hot water and stir until it forms a smooth paste. Break 1 egg into the mixture,, stir briskly until thoroughly felended; and let it cook five minutes, and set it away to cool. Form the cool paste into balls abou,t the size of a walnut, drop them into/^oil- SOUPS 337 ing water, and cook five mimites. Put them in the soup tureen, pour over them; boiling stock, and serve at once with a dish of grated Par- mesan. Tomato Cream Soup— No. 1 Gut up a dozen ripe tqmatoes; place in a saucepan and stew until tender. Rub through a strainer. Thicken with 3 teaspoonfuls of corn starch, rubbed to a paste with a teaspoon- ful of butter. Pour a quart of scalding milk in slowly, in which a pinch of soda has been dis- solved. Season with salt, pepper, an4 sugar. Tomato Cream Soup— No. 2 Stew a quart of tom^-toes until soft and then rub them through a colander. Add a pinch of soda and a teaspobnful of onion juice and re- turn to the fire. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in another saucepan; cook until they bubble; then pour a pint of milk upon them. When the milk thickens, add the |to- ma,toes. Season with salt and pepper, and just before serving add a teaspponfnl of Worcester- shire sauce. Onion Cream Soup Slice 6 large onions into 1 quart of mutton stock, and simmer for an hour. Eub through a colander, return to the fire, and' thicken with 2 teaspoonfuls of butter rubbed to a paste with 338 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH 2 of flour. Heat a pint of milk to tlie boiling point, and stir it into the soup. Season with salt, white pepper, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Cream of Beet Soup After boiling some young beets in salted water for an hour, turn out into cool water until they can be handled. Scrape all the skin off and chop them very fine. Put the beets in a saucepan with a pint of mutton stock, and sim- mer for fifteen minutes. Rub through a fime colander and place to one side of the range to keep hot. Pour a pint of milk upon 2 teaspoon- fuls of butter and the same amount of flour, which have been cooked to a roux. When it becomes thick and smooth, add slowly the beet and mutton puree ; season with salt and pepper, and when very hot serve. Cream of Pea Soup Turn off the liquor from a can of peas, and pour enough water over the peas to cover them well. Let the peas soak for half an hour, drain; put them into a saucepan with a pint of water, and boil until they become soft. Eub through a colander and add a teaspoonful of sugar. Cook in another saucepan 1 teaspoonful of but- ter with 1 of flour. Pour in a pint of rich mUk, and when it is thickened add the pea puree. SOUPS 339 Cook for a minute, season to taste, then turn into a heated tureen. Drop a handful of dice of fried bread on the soup just before serving. Cream of Sago Soup Soak half a cupful of sago for three hours in tepid water^ Put in a double boiler with a cup- ful of boiling water, and simmer until soft. Stir 2 tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour into 3 cupfuls of hot milk. Add this to the sago, beat up well, season with celery salt, pep- per, and a little onion juice. ^ Beat up well for two minutes, pour slowly upon 2 well-beaten eggs ; set in boiling water for two minutes and pour out. Cream of Turnip Soup Wash and pare % dozen turnips and let lie in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Drain and cut into small pieces. Put into a stewpan with 4 ounces of fresh butter and 3 ounces of lean ham cut intQ dice, and stir about over a gentle fire for a few minutes. Then add 2 or 3 onions, 2 sticks of celery; cut up and cover all with a pint of white stock. Let simmer gently until they are quite soft. Dredge two handfuls of flour over them, beating briskly meanwhile to avoid limiping and until smooth. Then gradually add 2 pints of white stock and stir over the fire until it boils. Rub through a 340 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH fine sieve and boil up again; add salt, pepper, and powdered mace, and when boiling beat in % pint of rich cream. Then serve with crou- tons on the side. A bay leaf and two or three cloves may be added to the other ingredients. Sufficient for eight persons. Leek Soup Into a quart of boiling broth sift gradually 2 tablespoonfuls of oatmreal, stirring briskly, as if making mush. Add as many leeks as re- quired for the number to be served, and boil until they are tender;" stirring occasionally from the bottom until the oatmeal ceases to settle. It should be of a creamy consistency. Take it from the fire and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs, well beaten, and mix with a little of the soup and serve at once. Queen Vermicelli Soup Boil % of a pound of vermicelli until ten- der; drain, and plunge it in. cold water. Put it in a saucepan with 2 quarts of well-seasoned broth and simmer half an hour. Beat the yolks of 8 eggs, and mix well with them % or Va of a cup of cream, and add a little grated nutmeg. Have the soup just at the boiling point without boiling, pour in the egg, stir briskly two min- utes, and serve with small triangles of crisp toast. The stiffly beaten white of the eggs may SOUPS 34J be served in spoonfuls floating on the top of the soup. Cream of Watercress Put one quart of white stock, or Beef stock and water, on the stove with 2 bunches of chopped watercress and 1 tablespoonful of but- ter. Simmer twenty minutes. When it begins to boil, add 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot cooked thoroughly, 2 cups of hot milk, % teaspoonful salt, and a dash of cayenne. Garnish with 1 cup of whipped cream and % cupful of fresh cress tips. Jenny Lind's Soup As prepared specially for her by her own cooh. Wash % pound best pearl sago till the water poured off is clear, then cook, till tender and thick, in a quart of cold water or broth, which should be heated slowly. Mix gradually with this a pint of boiling cream and the yolks of 4 fresh eggs, then add 2 quarts of- strong veal or beef stock, boiling hot. Serve at once. Chicken Cream Soup Boil an old fowl, with an onion, in ^4 quarts of cold water until reduced to half the original quantity. Take out the fowl and let it get cold. Cut off the whole of the breast and chop very 342 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH fine. Mix with the pounded yolks of 2 hard- boiled eggs, and rub through a colander. Cool, skim, and strain the soup into a soup-pot. Season, add the chicken and egg mixture, sim- mer ten minutes, and pour into the tureen. Then add a small cup of boiling milk. Velvet Soup Cook 1 tablespoonful of pearl tapioca or sago, previously soaked in cold water, in a quart of clear stock or bouillon. When the tapioca is cooked clear, beat the yolks of 3 eggs lightly, put them in the tureen, and pour the soup over, stirring until it becomes uniformly smooth and creamy; add a dash of nutmeg and paprika. By using extract of beef, and cooking the sago or tapioca until clear, a very nourishing and quick soup may be made without stock. Hulled-Corn Soup Mash or chop the corn fine before sifting, then stir in gradually hot milk till it reaches the consistency of cream vegetable soup. Add salt and pepper to taste, and put on to boil with a generous tablespoonful of butter to each quart of the mixture. Serve with croutons. If the slightly granular character is an objection, the usual thickening may be added, of 1 tablespoon- SOUPS 343 ful each of butter and flour cooked together and stirred into the boiling soup. If a corn puree is preferred, mash and sift the corn; heat, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. May be served as a vegetable, or as a garnish for sausage or pork chops. Cream of Sorrel Soup Wash thoroughly about a pint of sorrel, break it in pieces, or slightly bruise the leaves. Cook it in a tablespoonful of butter and 2 table- spoonfuls of water for ten or fifteen minutes, or untU tender enough to rub through a sieve. Put the sieved pulp in a saucepan with a quart of white stock and a pint of bechamel sauce, season with half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and let it simmer twenty minutes. Beat together the yolks of 2 eggs and a cupful of cream ; stir it into the hot soup, stirring briskly until it thickens. Serve with croutons or squares of crisp toast. Cream of Barley Soup To 3 pints of chicken broth or stock add a sliced onion, a small stick of cinnamon, a blade of mace, and a cupful of barley. Let it boil up and then simmer slowly, for four or five hours, and Straiai through a fine sieve. Put it back in the saucepan and add % pint of boiling cream or milk with 2 tablespoonfuls of butter ; season 344 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH to taste with, salt and pepper. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs, mix with them a cupful of milk; pour gradually into the soup, stirring briskly for two minutes. It must not boil after the eggs are added. Serve with croutons or toasted wafers. Cream of Mushroom Soup Wash and peel a quart of fresh mushrooms, put 'them into enough boiling' water to well cover them, and boil until very tender. Mash and rub them through a sieve. Add to the pulp 2 quarts of chicken or veal stock; rub a table- spoonful of flour and butter together until smooth, stir it into a cupful of rich cream or milk, and stir until smooth ; add it to the soup, season with salt and pepper, let it boil up, and serve. Soup h la Grecque Boil slowly % teacupfuLrice and a little mint in 1 quart stock; then stir in 1/2 pi^it cold stock. Beat 3 eggs till thick, add to -them the stock and rice gradually. Mif well, then pour back and return to fire. Add i ounce butter and juice of 1 lemon; stir well. Just before serv- ing add 2 minced chicken livers. Cream of Potato 3 medium-sized potatoes; V/o pints milk; 1 egg; 1 tablespoon butter. Salt and pepper and finely minced pairsley. SOUPS 345 Pare the potatoes and, if the tiipe is very limited, cut them in quarters to boil more quickly. As soon as done, pour off the water and mash, and put through a sieve or potato ricer. Have the milk hot, add the potato, bring to a boil, and add the seasoning; beat the egg until very foamy, and add at the last moment, stirring quickly to prevent any lumpiness. Gar- nish with the parsley, about a teaspoonful. Serve with hot saltines or any thin wafer. All crackers or toast should be crisp wben served with soups; the crispness means only a few minutes ia a hot oven, and is one of the little points that should not be overlooked. A little celery salt may be added, or a few drops of onion juice, or both. Quickly Made Tomato and Macaroni Soup Break a cupful of the egg macaroni into small pieces, cover with a quart of boiling salted water, and simmer slowly for an hour. Add 1 cup of stewed, strained, and seasoned tomatoes ; cook a moment, and just before serv- ing add one cup of cream or rich milk. Cream of Cabbage Soup Chop the cabbage fine, and cook in boiling salted water xmtil quite tender. Just before serving pour off most of the" water ; add milk, pepper, a little more salt, if necessary, and 23 346 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH thicken with flour to a creamy consistency. This soup deserves to be much more generally known than it is. Virginia Oyster Soup Take 1 quart of good oysters and wash through two waters. Strain the liquor and add to it 2 blades of mace, a stalk of celery chopped fine, % teaspoonful of white pepper, a few grains of cayenne, and salt if necessary. Sim- mer over the fire five minutes, then add 2 table- spoonfuls of butter rubbed smooth with 2 table- spoonfuls of flour and a pint and a half of rich cream and new milk, half and half. Let it come to a good boil, stirring all the time; then put in the oysters, and let them boil up once and no more, or they will shrivel and toughen. Pour into a hot tureen and give thanks. Peanut Soup Since the many really good preparations of nuts, in the form of nut butter, have been put on the market, nut soups may be quickly made. These soups are said to have a distinctly meaty flavor, that of nuts being partially transformed in the blending with the other ingredients. For an emergency soup the following is one of the most easily made': 1/^ cup of peanut butter; 1 pint milk; liquor SOUPS 347 strained from 1 pint of oysters. Salt and paprika. Enb the peanut butter to a smooth paste with a little of the milk, and add, stirring thoroughly, the remainder of the milk (heated) ; put over the fire and simmer_ slowly until it thickens, then add the hot oyster liquor, which has been brought thoroughly to a boil and skimmed. Add the seasoning and serve with saltine crackers. Instead of the oyster liquor the juice may be strained from a can of tomatoes. Bring it to a boil, and add a pinch of soda before put- ting it with the milk and nuts. Nut and Tomato Soup 1 pint of strained tomatoes; 1 pint water; 1 pint milk ; 2 tablespoonfuls of peanut butter. Put the nut butter in a dish and add a little water; rub smooth with a spoon, and add a little more water until it is of the consistency of thick cream. Put the tomatoes, water, and prepared butter on the fire and let boil ten min- utes. When ready to take off add the milk, and season with salt and cayenne. Instead of the nut butter 1 pint roasted and shelled peanuts may be used, or one-half pea- nuts and one-half chestnuts or pecans. Remove the brown husks from the peanuts, pound to a paste in a mortar with a little hot water, add 348 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH a little cream or milk, blending thorouglaly; then proceed tlie same as with the nut butter. Cream of Spinach with Egg Balls 2 quarts spinach; 1 quart milk; 1 level tear spoonful salt; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 table- spoonful flour ; % saltspoonful cayenne. Wash the spinach through several watej^s to remove all trace of sand, carefully examining each stalk to be sure that no insects cling to the leaves. Washing for the last time in strong salted water will remove them. Lift the leaves out of the water and put on to boil; no water is needed, as that which drains from the leaves is sufficient until it begins to cook, when its own juice will be all 1.hat is necessary to prevent its burning. Boil until soft enough to put through a coarse strainer or colander; twenty minutes should be sufficient. Eub through the strainer, add the milk, heated to boiling point; then thicken with the flour which has been rubbed into the butter; season, and serve with egg balls. Egg Balls 2 hard-boiled eggs; 1 raw egg; 1 tablespoon- ful flour or fine cracker crumbs ; 2 teaspoonfuls melted butter; 14 teaspoonful salt; a dash of cayenne ; a little grated nutmeg ; a few drops of lemon juice. SOUPS 349 Rub the boiled egg yolks very smooth, mince one of the whites very fine. Mix together, add the seasoning and flour or crumbs. Stir all together with enough of. the slightly beaten raw egg to bind and form into balls the size of a nutmeg, rolling into the egg and crumbs after shaping. Drop the balls into the boiling soup and cook until firm; about five minutes. Or they may be fried to a golden brown in deep boiling fat. Serve in the tureen with the soup. Cream of Chestnuts 1% pints of French or Italian chestnuts; 1 pint rich cream; 1 pint chicken, or any good white stock ; 1 tablespoonf ul butter ; 1 teaspoon- ful salt; % saltspoonful white pepper. Pour boiling water over the chestnuts, and let them stand a few minutes to blanch; remove the brown skins. Put the nuts in a covered saucepan and put on to boil in water enough to cover them well. Cook until they begin to get soft, about twenty minutes, then add the stock and boil fifteen minutes longer. When the nuts have cooked very soft, strain them and return to the saucepan, add the cream, bring to a boil, and simmer gently for five or ten minutes ; add the salt, pepper, and butter, and serve very hot in cups with small crackers or thin wafers. 350 SOUPS, CHOWDER, AND FISH Cream of Asparagus 2 bunches of asparagus ; 1 small onion ; 1 pint milk; % pint rich cream; 1 tablespoon butter; 1 tablespoon flour ; salt and pepper. Cut off the asparagus tips and boil separately to use as salad. Cut the stalks in short pieces to facilitate straining, add the onion and boil in one pint of salted water until tender ; mash and strain, with the water in which they were cooked, through a colander. Lift the tips care- fully from the water, keeping them unbroken. Add this water to the asparagus pulp, put it with the hot milk. Thicken with the butter and flour rubbed smoothly together, season, and just before serving add the cream, scalded. Cream of Lettuce Cleanse carefully about 3 heads of lettuce, re- moving all the dead leaves. Place in the inner pan 'of a double boiler, and bring to boil- ing as quickly as possible, so as to retain the color. When tender press through a fine sieve, place back into the saucepan over the fire ; add 1% pints of white stock and bring to a boil. Stir smooth a tablespoon of flour with a little milk or water, and add to* the soup, stirring briskly, until of a creamy consistency. Then add a tablespoonful of butter ; season with salt and pepper, a little sugar, and a dash of mace. Serve very hot. SOUPS 35J Cream of Celery 2 heads of celery; 1 small onion; 1 quart of milk; 2 tablespoons butter; 1 tablespoon flour or arrowroot; 1 teaspoon salt; i/2 saltspoon white pepper. Remove the tender heart of the celery for serving alone, using the outside stalks for the soup. Cut these in pieces and put on to boil with the best of the leaves and the onion cut in quarters, in water enough to well cover. Boil slowly until soft; strain through a coarse sieve, add the milk, butter, and thickening; boil very slowly ten minutes; add salt and pepper, and serve. Cream of Cauliflower This is made the same as cream of celery, dividing the flowers into small sections, cook- ing and straining, and proceeding the same as in the other cream soups. Cream of Green Peas 1 quart green peas ; 1 small onion ; 1 teaspoon sugar ; 1 pint rich milk ; 1 tablespoon rice flour ; 2 tablespoons butter. Salt and pepper. Cut the onion in half and cook with the peas in enough boUing water to cover. When the peas are cooked soft, take out the onion and strain through a coarse sieve. Return the pulp to the saucepan, add the sugar and milk; when 352 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH hot add the rice flour stirred up with a little cold milk; then add the butter, cook until it thickens ; add the pepper and more salt if neces- sary. A qup of whipped cream to the well- beaten white of an egg, added just before serv- ing, makes it more delicate. It must not cook or stand after the addition of the cream and the egg. BISQUES This term is given to a class of soups which in making become thicker than broths, by- reason of the crumbs and minced meat which are added. They are very popular soups for the family dinner, although for formal dinners those varieties which are made from shellfish are also in favor. Clam Bisque 1 quart clams, with their juice; 1 pint water; 1 quart milk; % small onion; 1 tablespoon but- ter ; 1 tablespoon flour ; i/^ saltspoon white pep- per; salt as needed. Pick over the clams and chop very fine. Put them in the cold water, heat rather quickly; add the onion, also chopped fine, and boil gently until all the goodness is extracted from the SOUPS 353 clams. Let the clam juice settle, pour it off from the sediment, bring it to a boil, and skim. Strain the liquor from the cooked clams through a fine strainer or cheesecloth, and add to the skimmed liquor. Heat the milk, thicken it with the flour and butter rubbed smoothlj^ together ; add it to the hot clam juice ; add the seasoning, boil until it thickens, and serve very hot. Bisque of Halibut Boil a pound of fresh halibut in 2 waters. Free from all pieces of skin and bones. Then mince it fine. Stir the fish into a quart of white stock and season with salt, pepper, and a spoon- ful of minced parsley. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 1 of flour into a saucepan. Cook until they become thoroughly blended, then add a cupful of , milk, and stir until the milk thickens. Turn the thickened milk into the pot with the fish and stock. Let it all, boil up once, and then pour out into the tureen. It is well to add half a cupful of powdered cracker crumbs just before the fish stock is mixed with the milk. Cod can be substituted for hajibut if desired. Chicken Bisque Cover the joints of a fowl with cold water, using a quart for each pound. Add a large 354 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH minced onion and 3 stalks of finely minced celery. Place a cover on the saucepan, and cook slowly until the flesh will slip from the bones. Put all aside to cool. When cold, skim, remove the bones and meat, and chop fine. While the soup is heating, turn a cupful of milk into another saucepan, to which a pinch of soda has been added. Thicken the milk with a tablespoonful of butter rubbed into a tea- spoonful of flour, and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley. After the soup has boiled for a few minutes, stir into it the chopped chicken and a cupful of soaked cracker crumbs. Boil one minute, then add the thickened milk and pour out into the tureen-. Salmon Bisque Open and turn out the contents of a can of salmon several hours before you are ready to make the soup. Pick the salmon to pieces with a silver fork and remove all the skin and bones. Put into an agate vessel with enough boiling water to cover, and let it simmer gently for about thirty minutes. Drain the water off and break the salmon to a soft mass. Heat a pint of milk in a double boiler with half a cupful of cracker crumbs and a pinch of soda. Stir in a pint of veal stock that has been well seasoned, SOXn« 355 and thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed into 2 of butter. "When it becomes thick and smooth, stir in the minced fish ; season well with paprika and salt, and serve. This is fine when made of fresh boiled salmon. Oyster Bisque Add enough cold water to the liquor drained from a quart of oysters to make a quart. Chop the oysters fine, and stir into this. Place in a porcelain-lined saucepan and cook gently for twenty minutes. Have ready a quart of heated milk, in which a pinch of soda has been dis- solved, and % a cupful of cracker crumbs, soaked. Cook 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour until they become perfectly blended; then pour upon them the quart of thickened boiling milk. Stir until it becomes thick and creamy. Now turn in the oyster soup, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour a cupful of the soup upon the well- beaten yolk^ of 2 eggs, stirring constantly. When thoroughly mixed, place back in the saucepan, stir for a moment, and pour at once into a heated tureen. Bisque of Lobster Eemove meat from shell, cut into dice ; tough, hard pieces may be put into 1 pint cold water, 356 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH with, the shell, and boiled twenty minuties, add- ing water as it boils away. Dry the coral in the oven on a piece of paper. Boil 1 quart milk ; thicken with 1 tablespoon- ful butter and 2 of flour or corn starch; cookten minutes, and add the water from the shells and trimmings after straining. Season with 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 saltspoonful white pepper, i/4 saltspoonful cayenne. The dried coral should be rubbed through a strainer, and use enough to color the soup a bright pink. Put the lobster dice and green fat into tureen and strain over them the ,boiling soup. Serve immediately, i/^ cup of fine cracker crumbs may be used as additional thickening. A satisfactory variation will be found in using 1 pint veal or chicken stock and 1 pint milk, and the addition of force-meat balls made by pounding half the lobster meat to fine paste, adding yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 1 teaspoon- ful butter, a little salt and pepper. Beat a raw egg, and use enough to moisten the paste so it can easily be formed into balls of nutmeg size ; then simmer them in the soup for five minutes, only long enough to cook the egg. Bisque of Crabs Boil 6 hard-shell crabs, in enough water to cover them well, for ten minutes, with 1 iable- SOUPS 357 spoonful salt. Take out with skimmer; when cold pick out the meat, keeping the meat from the claws separate. Chop the remaining meat fine, put in a saucepan with 1 cupful rice, 2 quarts boiling water, % bay leaf, 2 cloves, 10 wiole peppers, and a sliced onion. Simmer one hour. Strain, and return to saucepan ; add 1 cupful of milk or cream, and the meat from the claws, picked fine. Season with salt and pepper and thicken with two tablespoonfuls each, of butter and flour rubbed smoothly together ; let all come to a boil, and serve. Corn Bisque Drain the liquor from a can of cornl Chop the corn very fine, turn into a saucepan con- taining a quart of salted water, and simmer gently for an hour. Then rub through a col- ander; place again over the fire, add a tea- spoonful of sugar and 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter rubbed iuto 2 of floUr. Stir until it becomes smooth, and then pour slowly upon a pint of heated milk. Season to taste with salt, and then pour sloVly upon 2 well-beaten eggs. Serve at once. Cheese Bisque Bring a pint of milk containing a pinch of soda to the, scalding point. Add to this a cup ful of chicken or lamb stock, in whifih an onion has been boiled, and a cupful of water in which rice has been cooked. Cook 5 minutes and xa.'-s 358 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH through a strainer. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour into a good-sized sauce- pan and cook until thoroughly blended; then pour the white soup into the vessel and stir until it thickens to the consistency of cream. Beat in I/2 cupful of grated cheese. Have 2 well-beaten eggs in a bowl, and on these slowly pour a cupful of the hot soup, beating con- stantly to prevent the mixture from curdling. Now return the soup, with the eggs, to that which is on the fire. Beat for a moment, season well with salt and pepper, and serve. This is very good when properly made. Tomato Bisque Chop 2 cupfuls of fresh tomatoes ; 1 pint of skimmed gravy or of strong stock; 1 cupful of fine bread crumbs soaked half an hour in hot milk with a pinch of soda ; 1 teaspoonful of butter cooked with 1 of flour ; some chopped parsley ; cook together the tomatoes and stock for five minutes, run through a vegetable sieve ; add the seasoning, and return to fire. Simmer twenty minutes, then add the soaked crumbs and parsley. Cook five minutes, and serve at once. Canned tomatoes can be used if fresh ones are not at hand. Mock Bisque Bring to a boil 1 pint of tomatoes, 1 bay leaf, and a sprig of parsley. Boil slowly for ten or SOUPS 359 fifteen minutes. Add 1 teaspoonful of sugar and Va teaspoonful of soda, then press through a fine sieve and season with salt and pepper. Have ready a pint of milk, heat it in a double boiler and thicken with 1 tablespoonful of but- ter rubbed into the same amount of flour. Add the heated milk to the strained tomato, and serve immediately with croutons! If not ready to serve the soup,, do not add the soda or mix the tomatoes, but keep hot until needed and serve as soon as blended. SOUPS WITH MEAT, AND PUR£ES Green Pea Puree Boil until tender a quart of shelled peas in a pint of salted hot water with a young onion, a few sprigs of parsley, and 6 mint leaves. Rub through a colander and return to the fire. Add two cupf uls of good stock, season with salt and pepper and a little sugar. Let it boil two min- utes, then thicken with a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour. Cook one minute longer, and pour upon croutons of fried bread dice in the tureen. Red Bean Pur^e Soak a pint of red kidney beans in cold water for several hours. Drain, and put them in a saucepan with enough white broth or stock to 360 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH well cover them. Cqok slowly until very soft ; masli and rub th^m through a sieve. Add 2 or 3 slices of salt pork (diced), 2 onions, a carrot, salt and pepper, and a bouquet of herbs. Pour over them a quart of good stock, or a pint of stock and a pint of water, and simmer together for an hour. Strain ; add half a glass of claret. Heat, and serve \^rith croutons, Lima Bean Pur^e Cook the beans for ten minutes in boiling water; drain, rinse; put again into plenty of boiling water, cook till perfectly tender. Press the pulp through strainer; add milk or cream to make it of the usual consistency ; and to each quart add a tablespoonful each of butter and flour rubbed together, and stirred into the boil- ing liquid. Season with pepper and salt ; serve with wafers. Carrot Purde Use only the outer, dark-colored portion of the carrots. Scrape, wash, and cut in dice enough to make a cupful. Fry them in 2 table- spoonfuls of butter until slightly browned. Pour over them enough broth to well cover, and simmer until soft. Let it cook until reduced to a thick pulp. Stir in 5 or 6 tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and strain through a fine strainer. Add 6 cups of white broth and SOUPS > 361 strain again, and put it on the fire and stir until it bubbles; then set it aside to cool and skim off all fat from the top. Beat the yolks of 4 eggs, mix them with half a cup of cream, and strain through a sieve into the puree ; then put it over the fire and stir until it thickens. It must not boil. Add a few noodles and a lump of butter the size of an egg; pour into a hot tureen, and serve. Tomato Purfee with Macaroni 1 can tomatoes ; 1 pint beef stock ; 1 cup boiled macaroni; 1 stalk chopped celery; 1 sprig pars- ley; Iteaspoonful sugar; % teaspoonful salt; % saltspoon pepper ; 1 blade mace ; 1 bay leaf ; 1 tablespoonful each chopped onion, butter, and flour cooked together. Cook the tomatoes, parsley, celery, and sea- soning slowly together for an hour. Strain through a coarse sieve or colander, then add the cooked' flour and butter, and the stock. Stir all together until thoroughly blended. Cut the macaroni in inch pieces and add;. let it simmer a few minutes and serve. The macaroni may be omitted and croutons served with the puree. Oatmeal Pur^e 1% eups cooked oatmeal; 2 small onions, chopped; 1 cup celery, chopped; 1 pint milk; 362 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH 1 tablespoon butter; 1 teaspoon salt; % salt- spoon white pepper; 1 teaspoon chopped pars- ley. Boil the onion and celery pi a pint of water until nearly done; add the oatmeal mush and continue to cook until all is soft, adding more boiling water if it becomes too thick. Strain through a rather coarse strainer, pressing the pulp through with a spoon. Add the milk, bring to a boil, then add the butter and other seasoning, sprinkling in the chopped parsley just before serving. This makes a good nursery soup, either with or without the addition of a teaspoonful of ex- tract of beef. If liked, a blade of mace may be cooked in before straining. Tomato and Green Pea Purfee y2 can tomatoes (or same amount of fresh to- matoes cut in pieces) ; 1 pint shelled green peas ; 1 small onion; 1 pint stock; 1 pint water; 1 teaspoon sugar ; 1 tablespoon flour ; 1 teaspoon salt; a dash each of paprika and white pepper. Canned peas may be used, in which case pour off the water in which they are canned., Slice the onion and put in a saucepan with the to- matoes and peas. Add the sugar and salt. Pour over it the boiling water and cook slowly until soft. Eub through a coarse SOUPS ; irv 363 T' - m.... .:.: _ I. -— . ;; ■■■■ — . strainer ; put the pulp back in the saucepan, add th^ stock. Eub the flour smooth with a kittle cold stock; then add some of the hot liquor, stirring it until perfectly smooth; add it to the soup, boil until the flour is cooked, add pepper, and serve with croutons or crisp saltines. , No. 2-Without Stock Cook the tomatoe?, peas, and onion as in the preceding; omit the stock and add one pint milk in its' place, and 1 tablespoon butter rubbed to a paste with the flour. , % pint rich cream, whipped light Hiud added when taken from the fire, is an impro^i^ementi Tomato Pur6e %. teaspoonful of extract of beef; 1 onion; 1 bay leaf ; 1 sprig of parsley ; 4 cupfuls of to- matoes ; 2 cupfuls of hot water ; 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar ; 2 teaspoonfuls butter ; % teaspoonful cloves; % teaspoon of allspice; 3 tablespoon- fuls of flour ; 2 or 3 drops of onion extract ; salt and pepper to taste. Brown the onion (sliced) in the butter, add the flour, and brown. Add the tomatoes, pars- ley, spices, bay leaf, and sugar ; simmer fifteen minutes. Add the extract dissolved in hot water, strain the soup through a puree sieve, and return to the kettle. ^ Heat and serve. 364 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Quenelle Soup Into a cupful of boiling water put a piece of butter the size of a walnut, add a pinch of salt, and stir in sufficient flour to make a rather ~ thick, smooth paste. Turn it out and set away to cool. Cut into small pieces a % pound of nice lean veal, and pound them thoroughly in a mortar, addiag, a little at a time, 2 ounces of the cold paste and 3 ounces of butter; beat these well together and add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs and the white of 1, and season well with salt and pepper and grated nutmeg, Eub the whole through a fine sieve; add a little thick cream, and with 2 teaspoons form it into quenelles, or small balls. Place these in the bottom of a saucepan, pour over them carefully enough boUiQg stock to cover them, and cook gently a few minutes. Pour into a hot tureen the re- quired amount of hot soup or broth, add the quenelles and the stock in which they were boiled, and serve. Parisian-Spanish Soup Chop 4 good-sized onions, and fry them in a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar until a light golden brown. Put them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of hot stock, add a little minced parsley, a bay leaf, 2 small sweet SOUPS 365 red peppers, or 3 or 4 whole peppercorns. Boil all together fifteen minutes; add more salt if necessary. Put thin, crisp slices of toast in the tureen, sprinkle them with pepper, pour the soup over, and serve at once. Parisian Soup Cut 4 or 5 leeks into strips and fry in a little butter. Add to them a quart of good mutton stock; add salt and pepper to taste. Add 6 boiled potatoes cut into slices, and boil all to- gether tmtil the leeks are thoroughly cooked. Serve in a tureen with croutons strewn over the top. Velvet Soup Maigre This is a very simple and economical soup, as there is no meat in it. Cook some tapioca in water with a little salt and pepper. Put a lump of butter in a tureen and the yolks of 2 or .3 eggs. Pour the boiling tapioca over the eggs and butter, stir up well, and serve. Scotch. Hotchpotch Strain and remove all the fat from 2 qua;rts of good mutton or lamb broth, add 2 grated carrots and 3 sliced ones, enough young tur- nips, onion, parsley, and lettuce to make a quart of shred vegetables. Then take a pint of young green peas and a pint of cauliflower sprigs, 366 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH and add to the stock with the exception of half of the peas. Stew all slowly for half an hour. Trim 2 pounds of lamb or mutton cutlets, and add with the remainder of the peas to the stock. Season with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley ; simmer gently. Serve immediately. A Simple Onion Soup Miace half a dozen medium-sized onions very finely. Put in a, stewpan, ove^r a sJjQW fire witji 3 ounces of melted butter, dredge a little flour over them, and shake about until they are soft and lightly browned. ; Add a quart of boiling water, and seapon, with salt and pepper and a grated nutmeg. Have 2 well-beaten eggs in the tureen; after the soup has boiled up well, stir in among the eggs; and serve at once. It should take about half an hour for this soup to cook. ■ Sago Soup (Hawaiian Rectpe) Wash 14 cup pearl sago through several cold waters; cook slowly in 1 quart water till the sago is transparent ; add a pinch of salt, a 2-inch piece stick ciimamon, % cup seeded and chopped raisins ; and just before serving % pint of fruit juice and 2 tablespopnfuls sugar. Gock-a-Leekie Boil a young fowl imtil tender in 2 quarts of white stock. Take out thevfowl and set, to SOUPS 367 one side. Wash and cut off tlie roots and jiart of the heads of 2 nice bunches of leeks, then cut into 1-inch lengths. Put them into the broth, add % pound of boiled rice, add a little salt and pepper. Boil for half an hour. After cutting the fowl into neat joints, put it in the soup, let it boil up well, then serve at once. The soup can be served without adding the fowl. Lettuce Soup Wash thoroughly and drain the water from a dozen lettuce hearts. Cut them down the cen- tres, leaving the stems whole. Dash them with salt and pepper. Put them in a saucepan with a pint of chicken consomme and the same of veal broth ; add an onion, a carrot, a few sprigs of parsley, a clove, a blade of mace, a bay leaf, and a little thyme. Put a sheet of buttered paper over the top of the saucepan and put the lid on tightly ; boil gently two hours. Take out the lettuce, drain on a towel, cut them in two, and put them in the soup tureen, where they will keep hot. Strain the stock in which they were boiled, add 3 pints more of boiling broth and pour it over the lettuce, and serve with nicely browned pieces of toast on the top. Soup of Herbs with Parmesan Wash in several waters a handful each of chervil, chives, and sorrel, and a head of tender 368 SOJPS, CtiOWDERS, AND HSH celery; add a very little tarragon and a few sprigs of parsley. Drain all these free from water and cut them in small pieces. Put them in a saucepan and pour over 3 pints of clear stock or broth, and boil until all are ten- der. Slice some French rolls and cut them in small rounds the size of a half-dollar, dip them in hot butter, and roll in finely grated Parmesan, having them well covered. Put them in a shal- low baking tin or on a sheet of paper on an in- verted pan, and brown lightly in the oven. Pour the soup in the tureen and put the toast on the top. Flemish Soup Cut into small pieces carrots, onions, and turnips in equal quantities sufficient to make 2 cupfuls ; add 2 leeks cut in small pieces, a small head of lettuce, breaking the leayes in two or more pieces, a little chervil, and a head of endive. Put these in a saucepan with a lump of butter the size of a walnut, pour over them a pint of beef or mutton broth, and boil until the vegetables are all tender, stirring frequently. Add 2 quarts of boiling broth, a teaspoonful of sugar, salt and pepper as required, and sim- mer one hour; just before serving beat the yolks of 3 eggs light with a half-pint of rich cream, and stir briskly into the soup. .■^ SOUPS 369 Family Soup Put any meat bones from dressed meats, to- gether with, trimmings of poultry and scraps of meat, into a stewpan. Add ^to the meat 2 onions which have been stuck with 5 cloves; 2 carrots, 1 turnip, a little celery seed, ti^d in a piece of muslin, bunch savory herbs, 1 sprig parsley, a little mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Pour 3 or 4 quarts of cold water over this, and let simmer gently for several hours. Strain through a fine sieve. This makes a good foundation for any soup. French Soup Put 4 pounds of meat into a stock pot with 3 quarts of water; set over slow fire and let it boil gently, carefully taking off scum that will rise to the top. Pour in teacupful of cold water to help scum to rise. When no more scum rises, add 3 small sliced carrots, 3 medium-sized onions, 2 cut-up turnips, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch thyme, 1 bay leaf, a little parsley tied together, and 2 teaspoonfuls salt. Let all boil gently for two hours. If necessary, add more water. Dried-Bean Soup Soak 1 quart of kidney, field, rice, or mock- turtle beans overnight. In the morning put them in a closely covered soup-pot with 2 370 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH pounds of salt pork, wMoh has been cut up into small pieces, and 1 gallon of cold water. Boil three hours, add 1 teaspoonful of sugar. Strain, and serve with slices of lemon. Some small force-meat balls and slices of hard-boiled eggs can be dropped in the tureen at the last moment. Hard-Pea Soup Soak 2 pounds of split peas overnight in water, to which a little soda has been added. All the peas that float should be thrown away. Strain out the peas and place them in 2 quarts of stock. Add a head of celery, a cut-up carrot, a large onion or 2 small ones, and season with a pinch of curry powder or a little cayenne pepper. Boil with a lid on the pot until all is soft. Skim off the scum occasion- ally, and then strain carefully into a heated tureen, beating the pulp through the strainer with a spoon. Serve as hot as possible, placing a cupful of crumbled bread crumbs into the tureen before the soup is dished. Cocoanut Soup 2 pounds veal and a knuckle bone; 1 cocoa- nut ; 2 quarts water ; 1 cup cream ; 1 egg ; 1 table- spoon arrowroot or nice flour; 1 tablespoon butter ; salt and pepper ; a blade of mace. Einse the veal in cold water, wipe dry, and SOUPS 37J cut in small pieces. Have the bone well cracked. Put it into the kettle with the cold water and cook slowly until the meat is very tendier and the water has evaporated nearly one-half. Add the grated cocoanut and simmer for another half -hour. Strain, and add the milk of the cocoanut and the cream. Let it come to a boil, add the arrowroot or flour, rub- bed to a cream with the butter, salt and pep- per to taste; let it boil until it thickens. Ee- move from the fire and add the lightly beaten egg, stirring briskly.. Serve at once with small tri9,ngles, of crisp toasted bread. This ^oup should not be allow;ed, to stand long after the egg is added. Mock-Turtle Soup 1 calf's head; 3 potmds lean veal; 3 pounds beef -shank; 5 quarts water; 1 slice good ham; 1 carrot; 1 turnip; 1 celery root; 2 onions; 1 bunch parsley ; a bunch of sayory herbs, or 2 teaspoons mixed dry herbs ; 1 blade mace ; 1 small stick cinnamon ; 6 cloves ; 6 peppercorns ; 2 teaspoons salt; 1 lemon; a wineglass sherry ^ wine. . Select a large, fine head with -wrell-fiUed clieeks and good tongue. Wash, cl;ea,n, and scrape the head, and let it soak for, half an hour in cold water. Take out th^ braiii and tongue 372 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH and set aside in cold water, to be used in other dishes. ' Cut the head in small pieces and put it in the water with the skin side up to prevent its sticking to the kettle. Heat slowly and skim thoroughly. Let it simmer for two hours, when the meat should slip easily from the bone. Lift out of the kettle and remove the meat care- fully from the face and any other nice parts. Return the bones to the kettle; add the veal, beef, and brain, cut in small pieces ; put in the sliced onion and the other vegetables, herbs, and spices, and simmer for three hours. The liquor should then be reduced to about 3 quarts. While the soup is boiling, cut the meat taken from the face into dice to be returned to the soup. 'Strain the soup, cool, and re- move the fat. Put the liquor into a clean saucepan and add 1 scant cup of the diced meat to each quart of soup; bring to a boil ;^ stir in a brown thickening made by rubbing to- gether 2 tablespoons browned flour and the same of butter. Boil until the flour is sufiicientlj cooked, stirring frequently. With the remaining bits of meat make force- meat balls, using a portion of the brains. Add the sherry wine, a spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, or tomato. Put the force-meat balls into the tureen ; have SOUPS 373 the soup very hot, and pour over. Serve with very thin slices of lemon. Turkey Soup Take the carcass and all that is left of a roast turkey. Cut all the good bits of meat from the bones and put it aside by itself; take out the stuffing and set it aside. Crack the bones and put them with any scraps of meat in a kettle with cold water enough to well cover them.' Add 1 chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful salt, and a little pepper. After it has simmered two hours, or until the bones are clean, strain through a colander, cool, and remove the fat. Put on the fire and put in the sliced meat, both light and dark, in the proportion of 1 cup- ful to a quart of stock. Add a few spoonfuls of the stuffing. Let all simmer together for half an hour and serve. If there is no stuffing left, add more seasoning, and thicken with browned flour and butter. Chicken or any other fowl or game can be used in the same way. White Bean Soup Soak 3 cupfuls of dried white beans for eight hours. Drain, and then cover them with 2 quarts of boiling water. Boil the beans until they are tender and broken to pieces. Rub them through a sieve and return to the fire with 374 SOUPS, CHO^TDERS, AND FISH the water they were boiled in. Add a quart ©f stock, in which a piece of corned beef or a ham has been boiled. If too salt, add other soup stock. Boil for an hour, season to ta^te; stir in a tablespoonful of butter which has been rolled in 1 tablespoonful of flour and put into , the tureen. Put a handful of croutons on the surface of the soup. Spinach Soup Pick over, wash, and stem half a peek of spinach, put in the inner Vessel of a double boiler, with boiling water in the outer, and coOk tender. Eub the spinach through the vegetable press back into the saucepan. Add a quart of good stock-, season with salt, pepper, a tea- spoonful of sugar, and a pinch of mace. Quickly bring it to a boil, stir in a tablespoonful of but- ter rolled in a tablespoonful of flour, and cook for one minute. Both celery and cauliflower are good used in Mie same way. Farmer's Chowder - Parboil and slice 6 good potatoes. Chop and fry half a pound of salt pork, and when it begins to crisp add a minced onion and cook to a Jight brown. Pack the "potatoes, porkj and onion in a soup-kettle, sprinkling each layer with minced parsley and pepper. Add the hot SOUPS , 375 pork fat ; cover with a pint of boiling water, and cook gently for half an hour. Turn into a col- ander and drain the liquor back into the pot. Have a pint of hot milk ready, into which a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour has been stirred. Place this in the kettle containing the liquor, cook one minute, add the potatoes to the kettle, and serve. Succotash Soup String and cut the string beans into inch lengths, then shred each inch into thin strips. Grate the kernels from six ears of corn, and boil the corn-cobs twenty minutes in a quart of cleared beef stock. Take the cobs from the stock and add the grated corn and shredded beans. Boil for twenty-five minutes. Make. a pint of tomato sauce, thickened and seasoned as usual, and pour the stock containing the corn and beans upon this. Season to taste, and serve very hot, without straining. This soup can be made in winter from canned corn and string beans. Tomato and Bean Soup Pour 3 pints of cold water over beef-bones and place on the fire. Add half a sliced carrot, 2 stalks of coarse celery, and a grated onion. Simmer slowly for four hours in a covered pot, until the liquid is reduced to one-half, 376 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Turn all into a bowl and let it stand until it becomes cold. Skim tbe fat off, take out tlie bones, and rub the vegetables through a col- ander back iato the liquor. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When it begins to boil, add a cupful of stewed tomato and one of baked beans. After cooking half an hour rub all hard through the colander into another saucepan. Thicken with a tea- spoonful of butter rubbed with 1 of flour. A little chopped parsley is an improvement. Boil hard for a moment and turn upon small squares of fried or toasted bread laid in the bottom of the tureen. This is a fine way to use up left-overs of stewed tomatoes and baked beans. Red Tomato Soup Skim the fat from a quart of beef stock and turn into it a can of tomatoes, or a quart of fresh tomatoes which have been peeled and sliced. Simmer for an hour. Then rub the soup through a sieve and return to the fire with a large teaspoonful of sugar, a tablespooiiful of butter rolled in flour, a teaspoonful of onion juice, a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and pepper and salt to taste. Add half a cupful of boiled rice. Simmer five minutes, and serve with squares of toasted bread. SOUPS 377 Carrot Soup Wash, and slice in tMn slices one dozen half- grown carrots. Place in a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and a little sugar and salt. Cook slowly until the carrots begin to color. Add a pint of rich broth and boil gently until tender ; then press the carrots through your vegetable press ; return to the saucepan, and when hot, serve. Sorrel Soup • Chop a quart of sorrel very fine, and boil until tender in a quart of mutton stock. Rub through a colander and return to the fire. Thicken a pint of hot milk with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed into one of butter. Cook about a min- ute, then slowly stir in the sorrel soup. Season to taste and serve. Okra Soup Stir 2 slices of corned ham (minced), a chopped onion, and two dozen okra into a quart of chicken stock. Add a pint of strained tomatoes and boil all until the okra is tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve. Savory Rice Soup Wash half a cupful of rice. Place in boiling water, and boO for twelve minutes. Drain the water off, pour 1 quart of stock over it, and cook until the rice becomes tender; then rub 25 378 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH through a strainer and return to the fire. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs; add half a cup of cream to them, then add this to the soup, and stir for a moment. Do not allow it to boil. If neoes- saryj add more seasoning, and serve. Browned Potato Soup Peel and quarter 12 potatoes. Fry the po- tatoes together with a sliced onion in a soup- pot in which 3. tablespoonfuls of beef dripping have been placed. When the potatoes hkve browned add 2 quarts of water, and simmer until the potatoes have become soft. Rub through a colander, return to the pot, and thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls of browned flour rubbed to a paste with a great spoonful of but- ter. Stir until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. This soup is very good. Savory Potato Soup Put over the fire a good marrowbone in '3 pints of cold water. Add a small sliced carrot, a stalk or two of celery, and a grated onion. BoU slowly down to one-half the original quan- tity. Set aside until cold; remove the fat and take out the bones, rub the vegetables through a col- ander back into the soup. Bring quickly to a SOUPS (379 boil. and pour upon a cupful of masHed po- tato. Turn into a double boiler, and when it becomes hot add a .great spoonful of cboppetl parsley. ,; ; , , Have a pupfiil qf hot water, in which a pinch of soda has been dropped, in another sauftepan. Stir into this a teaspoonful of butter, whieii has been rubbed in 1 of corn starch. Cjpok three minutes, add to the potato sOup ; Stir briskly for half a minute andput into the tureen. Split-Pea Soup-No. 1 This soup may be made of dried, split, green, or yellow peas. Let a large cupful of the |peas soak overnight. In the morning dl'ain; cover with 2 quarts of water, and bring to a boil. Simmer gently until the peas become soft, the&i rub them through a colander and return to the fire. Thicken with 'a tablespoonful Of flonr rubbed into 1 of butter, and season With salt, pepper, celery, and onion juice: Stir the soup until it becomes vety smooth, turn into a heated tureen, throw in a handful of dice of fried bread, and serve. Bean and Tomato Soup . , ., Soak a quart of beans eight hours. Elraih, and soak in warm water for another hour. Drain, and put into the soup-pOt with a gallon 380 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH of coM water; bring to a boil slowly. Add a half pound of chopped fat salt pork with 2 sliced onions and a bay leaf. Simmer gently for four hours. Then press and run the soup through a sieve. Return to the pot with a quart of canned tomatoes, and sweeten with 2 teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar. Boil half an hour, strain the soup through a colander, and place over the fire. Thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed into the same quantity of butter. Boil up once, and serve. Mock-Turtle Bean Soup Make like white-bean soup, adding, at the last, a tablespoonful of butter which has been rubbed in a tablespoonful of browned flour. When the soup has boiled about a minute, add a glass of sherry. Peel and slice a lemon as thin as possible, place in the tureen with 3 tablespoonfuls of hard-boiled eggs which have been cut into dice. This is a very good imita- tion of mock-turtle soup. Okra Soup Put 2 pounds soup meat in 2 quarts cold water; when it comes to a boil, skim, and put in 1/4 peck okra, 4 good-sized tomatoes' 1 onion, 2 pieces celery, 2 tablespoonfuls chopped pars- ley, and 3 tablespoonfuls rice; the vegetables SOUPS 38J should be chopped fine; cook all together for four hours ; an hour before serving add % pint lima beans ; and fifteen minutes before serving, 3 ears of corn cut from cob; last of all, the chopped parsley. A good soup may be made without the celery, corn, and beans. Parsnip Soup Melt 4 ounces butter in wide saucepan, and slice in 2 pounds tender parsnips; cook slowly till tender, then cover them well with any well- seasoned stock or broth, and boil for twenty minutes; press through sieve with wooden spoon, add enough stock to make 2 quarts in all, season with salt and white or cayenne perp- per, let it boil up once. Skim — serve — eat ! Split-Pea Soup-No. 2 Pick over and wash 1 cup dried split peas; soak several hours in cold water. Put them on in 3 piats fresh cold water, and simmer until dissolved, adding water as it boils away, to pre- serve the original quantity. Keep it scraped free from the sides of the kettle ; when soft, rub through, a strainer and add water, milk, or stock to make the desired consistency — ^more a, puree than a soup. When it boils again, add a large tablespoonful each of butter and flour, that have been cooked together, with a tea- 382 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH spoonful salt, and a saltspoonful wMte pepper; simmer ten minutes, and serve wich fried bread dice. If liot strained and thickened, it will separate as it cools. ' It is not necessary to boil salt pork with this soup, but it may be varied by using tomatoes,' an onion, or remnants of any meat, removing these before straining. The split peas have had the hulls removed and cook much quicker than whole peas. Baked-Bean Soup To a pint of baked beans add 1 quart water and a slice of onion; boil to a pulp, mash, and season. An equal part of sweet corn mary be added-; if dried corn is used, soak it overnight, chop, and add to beans after straining to re- move the indigestible hulls. Do not use the water in which it was soaked. ' Bean Soup Soak a pint of beans in 3 or 4 quarts of water overnight; pour off in the morning, and put the beans on to boil in 2 quarts cold water. Fry' a sliced onion in: a tablespo'onful of but- ter ^add to the beans, with a piece of celery root. Boil gently 'till the beans are soft, adding cold water as it boils away; this checks too rapid boiling and softens the beans. Then rub them ■ SOUPS 383 through a strainer, and add salt, cayenne pep- per, and a saltspoonf ul of mustard ; let it come to a boil, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, which have been cooked together; this prevents the beans from settling. Slice a lemon and 2 hard-boiled eggs into the tureen, and pour over the hot soup. Serve with croutons. If tomatoes are de- sired, add half a can before straining; and a quarter pound of salt pork, or bones and odds and ends of meat, may be an improvement. The beans may be boiled to pulp, sifted, and thianed with brown soup stock, and when sea- soned with ground herbs, spices, force-meat balls, and wine, is not unlike mock-turtle soup. / American Soup Cut into small pieces a pound of mutton (a piece from the neck will do) ; put, it in a sauce- pan with half a pound of split peas that have beeh soaked in cold water. Add 5 pints of water, bring to a boil, and add X chopped onion, half a turnip, half a carrot, and a stalk of celery (all chopped) and a teaspoonful of sugar. Simmer two or three hours. Cut into small pieces 3 or 4 good-sized tomatoes, add them to the soup, and boil thirty minutes longer. Strain through a fine sieve, season 384 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH with salt, pepper, a very little nutmeg or mace ; boil up, and serve with croutons or triangles of crisp toast. Lentil Soup After soaking a pint of lentils in cold water for three or four hours, put them in a saucepan with 1 carrot, 1 onion, 2 ounces of salt pork cut in small pieces, a bunch of savory herbs with parsley. Season with a half tablespoon of salt and 6 peppercorns. Add the bones of any cold fowl or small game. Pour over 2 quarts of cold water and boil an hour, and rub through a sieve and return to the saucepan to get thoroughly heated. Cut some nice thia slices from the breast of the fowl or game used, put these in the soup tureen with a tablespoon- ful of butter, and pour the soup over them. Serve with croutons or sippets of fried bread, SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT Cranberry Soup Boil 2 quarts of cranberries in a quart of water until the skins crack, then rub through a fine sieve, dilute with boiling water, and thicken with a little fine tapioca. It may be seasoned with a very Utile salt and sugar to taste, and flavored with orange or lemon peel, or stick cinnamon and whole cloves boiled with the ber- SOUPS 385 ries. Served hot with, little light suet dmnp- liags. Frijole Soup Frijoles are small red beans, highly esteemed by the Mexicans, and much used in California and the Southwest. The red beans to be found in the Eastern markets may be used in their place. Soak the beans overnight in cold water, then salt slightly, and cook all day in the same water until the beans are very soft and the liquor thick and rich. Eub them through a colander, and to each pint of pulp allow a half cup of stewed and strained tomato, an onion, and a chili pepper minced and browned in olive oil. Add enough water to reduce the soup to the right consistency, and when piping hot, serve with croutons. Meagre Soup This soup should be of the thickness of ordi- nary pea soup. Remove the withered leaves from 2 large lettuces, take 5 or 6 handfuls of sorrel, a few sprigs of parsley, and a small bunch of chervil. Shred all of these very fine. Slice and chop some onions, carrots, and leeks ; fry untU they are lightly browned in butter, then put in a saucepan with boiling Water. Add a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a large 386 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH lump of butter, and season with salt and pep- per. Stir occasionally to prevent any of the ingredients from sticking to the bottom. When thoroughly cooked press the vegetables through a sieve. Add more water to pulp, if necessary, and let the soup boil again before serving. Lentil Soup Pick over and wash a cupful of lentils. After soaking them for three hours, put on the stove to cook in 1 quart of boiling water. Cook slowly until soft and until the water is reduced one-half. Eub through a strainer and add a pint of milk. ' When it begins to boil, stir in 1 tablespoon- ful of flour cooked in a tablespoonful of butter. Season with paprika, salt, and a small amount of sugar. Serve with croutons. Squash Soup One cupful of cold boiled squash run through a colander ; beat into this 1 teaspoonf lil each of salt and of sugar, a little pepper and a pinch of mace, 1 tablespoonful of onion juice, and 2 of minced celery. Place this on the stove, stir- ring constantly until it becomes very hot. Have ready a quart of heated milk, with a pinch of soda. Stir 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 of flour, blended, into the milk. Mix the SOUPS 3^7 squash and the milk well together in the tureen and serve. Turnip soup can be made in the same way. Rice and Tomato. Soup . Boil to a pulp, in a quart of salted water, a dozen ripe tomatoes which have heen peeled and cut up. Strain, place on the stove again, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed into the same quantity of flour. Add salt and sugar to taste, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Cook ten minutes, then stir iu a cupful of boiled rice. Egg Soup Heat a quart of milk in a double boiler into which has been stirred a minced onion and a pinch of soda. Eub a tablespoonful each of but- ter and flour to a paste, and stir into the milk. Season to taste with pepper and salt. Poach 6 eggs and lay them in the bottom qf the tureen, and when the soup is smooth and creamy, pour it carefully upon the eggs. Sago Soup without Meat Wash a teacupful of sago and then boil for an hour in a quart of water, with a pinch of salt and a little cinnamon or lemon rind. At the end of the hour the water should be reduced 388 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH to one-half. Add a pint of red wine, and some slices of lemon, and 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let it all come to a boil, and when ready to serve, sprinkle the surface with powdered cin- namon or nutmeg. CHOWDERS A CHOWDER differs from soup in being thicker, — ^more of the consistency of a stew, — thottgh sometimes served as a soup course, and crackers are either added to the chowder while cooking or are put in when it is dished, instead of being served separately. For fish chowders, cod or haddock is best, though bass is also used ; it should be a firm-fleshed fish, of a kind from which the bones may be easily removed — ^not one with many small bones. Fish Chowder 4 pounds fish; 6 medium-sized potatoes; 2 slices fat salt pork; 1 quart milk; 2 small onions; 2 teaspoonfuls salt; 1 saltspoonful white pepper; 6 Boston or butter crackers. Remove the skin from the fish ; with a boning knife out it clean from the bones, taking out the small bones near the head, if the latter has been left on. Rinse the fish in cold water, wipe with a dry cloth, cut in two-inch squares, and put it aside in a cool place. Crack the bones, which are rich in gelatine 389 390 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH (especially those of the head) ; put them to boil in sufficient cold water to cover. Pare the potatoes ai^d slice them one-fourth of an inch thick or less. The potatoes and fish should be about equal in quantity. Soak the potatoes in cold water for half an hour. Slice the onions and cut the pork into small dice and Sty togiether in a frying-pan, taking care that they do riot burn. Strain off the fat into the kettle; put in a layer of the sliced potatoes, then a layfer of the fish; adding the salt and pepper to each. Strain over them the water from the boiled bones, and add the rest of the boiling water. Let it boil up briskly, and keep it boil- ing steadily, but not too rapidly, for twen,ty minutes or until the potatoes 'are tender, but not bi-oken or mushy. When both fish and po- tatoes are tender add the milk, which has been heated with the butter, and stir carefully to allow the milk to mix with the chowder, without breaking the fish. Split the crackers and lay them on the top of the chowder, where they will absorb just enoiigh of the gravy to moisten them slightly. Let it boU up, lift the crackers carefully to the tuireen, and pour the chowder over them. A tablespoonful of cracker flour may be added to the hot milk, or a little flour rubbed into the butter, if the broth is liked thicker; a CHOWDERS 391 little Worcestershire sauce or cayenne is added if a more highly seasoned dish be liked. The broth should be rich and creamy. A little finely minced parsley may be sprinkled over the top if desired. Clam Chowder Some clam chowders have the potatoes omitted, and a. quart of cider and pint of port are added. Some add salt pork and potatoes to this, which is a matter of taste, but not orthodox. Milk or cream should not be added, for what affinity is there between mUk and clams 1 It is a frequent combination, it is true, but one that is almost sure to cause indigestion. Take half a peck of hard or soft clams in the shell, which should be well scrubbed before they are opened. Beserve the dam juice, cut off the hard part of the clam, and chop fine (reserving, the soft part whole) ; put the chopped part in a poroelain- lined kettle with enough water to cover, and oook until they begin to grow tender. Mean- while peel and slice 2 onions and 6 medium- sized potatoes, and steam a poimd of sea-bis- cuit. TVTien the chopped clams are tender, re- move them with a skimmer and put in the po- tatoes, onions, a pint of tomatoes, all the clams and biscuit in layers ; seasoning each with salt, 392 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH pepper, a little powdered sweet marjoram, savory, and thyme. Then cover all with cold water and cook gently for about twenty min- utes, or until potatoes and onions are tender. Before serving season more if liked. V French Fisherman's Chowder Put 1/4 of a cup of butter or good clarified dripping in a stewpan, and when melted add 3 ounces of sifted flour and stir until smooth and bubbling; then cool and add a quart of stock or water, cut the meat carefully from a flounder or other fish of firm flesh, and put the bones and trimmings in the soup with a bay leaf, 2 cloves, a teaspoonful of essencQ of anchovy, or some well-seasoned table sauce; a little "^ cayenne, a teaspoonful of sugar, and 3 teaspoonfuls of salt; unless you use salted soup stock. Let it boil rapidly for ten minutes; skim, if any fiat arises. Cut the fish into neat pieces and lay in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley and half as much white potato, sliced thick, as you have fish. Strain the stock over this and add a pint of warm milk, and a little cream if you have it on hand. Let it cook slowly until the potatoes ai*e just tender, but keep their shape. Oyster liquor or clam broth may be used instead of the stock or water. In that case add the hot milk at the very last, when CHOWDERS 393 the potatoes are done, and boil up once, and serve. Soft-Clam Chowder Clibp a quart of soft clams, peel and slice 6 potatoes thin, tie up in a cheesecloth bag 6 whole allspice and 6 cloves. Put 1/4 of a pound of minced salt pork into a pot and fry crisp, then remove the pork and fry a small sliced onion in the pot to a light brown. Add the potatoes and a can of tomatoes, the spice bag, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a quart of cold water. Cook four hours. After cooking three, and a half hours add the clams and 4 pilot bis- cuits that have previously been soaked in milk. Serve very hot. Scallops can be used instead of dams, and 'treated in the same way they make a delicious chowder. More cayenne should be used than in the clam chowder. Terrapin Soup 1 quart chicken or white stock; 1 pint ter- rapin meat; 1 cup cream; 2 hard-boiled egg- yolks; 2 tablespoonfuls butter; 1 tablespoonful rice flour; % teaspoonful salt; % saltspoonful paprika; a blade of mace; % glass madeira or sherry. Simmer the terrapin meat for half an hour in the stock, adding the salt, mace, and paprika. 26 394 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND HSH Mash the egg-yolks smooth, and add with the hot cream. Rub together the rice flour and butter until smooth, mix with a little of the hot liquor, then stir it into the Soup; let it boil a few minutes and add the wiae. Serve with dry plain boiled rice or rice- or egg-balls. Turtle Soup Make the red-legged turtle soup the same as terrapin. For green-turtle soup take : 3 pints clear white stock ; 1 can green turtle ; 1 onion; 2 tablespoonfuls butter; 1 tablespoon- ful flour; % teaspoonful salt; l^ teaspoonful paprika ; 1 lemon ; % glassful sherry ; 6 cloves ; 6 peppercorns ; 1 bay leaf ; 1 blade mace ; 1 tea- spoonful mixed sweet herbs. If very fat, use only a small portion of it; cut this in dice and add at the last. Simmer the turtle meat for ah hour in the stock, with the sweet herbs and spices tied loosely in a piece of cheesecloth. Slice the onion and cook, it in the butter, but do not let it brown much; add the flour to the onion and butter, and stir until smooth. ' Add this to the hot soup with the salt and paprika ; let it simmer until thoroughly blended, then add the sherry and the fat meat. Sarve with a very thin slice of lemon in each plate. CHOWDERS 395 Egg balls or liard-|)oiled egg-yolks cut in quar- ters may be served with the soup. Mock Terrapin Boil until tender 2 pounds of lean beef; let it cool in the liquor. Chop the meat rather fine ; put into a saucepan with a cupful of milk and 1 of stock. , Eub 2 tablespoonfuls of butter Avith 1 of flour, add 2 teaspoonfuls of made mustard, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and a little grated nutmeg. Put it over the fire and cook fifteen or twenty minutes ; add J pint of white wine and more salt if needed, and serve. Fish Soup Boil salmon, halibut, or cod in salted water until it flakes easily. Drain, remove skin, and bones, and rub through strainer. To 1 pound of fish use 1 quart milk, boiled with an onion, for ten minutes; take out the onion, thicken milk with 1 tablespoonful butter and 2 tablespoon- fuls flour cooked together. Add 1 teaspoonful salt and 1 saltspoonful pepper, and the fish. Let all come to a boil together, then serve. Red-Snapper Soup Bring a quart of white stock to a boil. Mince finely 2 cupfuls of cold cooked fish, which has been fr.eed of skin and bones, and stir into the stock. Add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of 396 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH chopped parsley, and a great spoonful of but- ter. Heat a cupful of milk to boiling, then thicken with a white roux and half a cupful of fine cracker crumbs. When the fish and stock have cooked for five minutes, stir into the thickened milk, and serve. Eel Soup Clean and cut 2 pounds of eels into inch- lengths. Put some dripping in a saucepan and, when hissing hot, fry a sliced onion in it. After rubbing the pieces of eels dry, place in the saucepan and fry on both sides to a light brown. Turn all in a covered saucepan, pour in 3 pints of water, and, cook slowly for an hour. Season with a pinch of mace and a larger pinch of cayenne, and 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. Salt to taste. Stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter cooked to a roux with 1 of flour. Simmer three minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and serve. Crab Soup Cut in small pieces 4 good-sized tomatoes that have been washed and wiped (or use half a can of tomatoes). Mash and rub them •through a strainer fine enough to take out all the seeds. Pour boiling water over the seeds and skins to extract all the juice, and stf'ain this off also. Put this strained tomato in a sauce- CHOWDERS 397 ipi I -■ ■■- ■ ■ ——I... pan with a clove of garlic, 1 onion, a small red pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter, and stew half an hour. Add a cupful of crab meat with- out the fat; pour over it boiling water enough to make 3 pints in all. Season with minced parsley, sweet marjoram, a spoonful of lemon juice, more salt if necessary, and, lastly, the fat of the crab. Simmer slowly for- an hour, thicken slightly with bread crumbs, and serve. Shrimp Gumbo Chop fine 1 red sweet chili and an onion, and cook slowly for half an hour in 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil. Add 1 pint okra (washed and sliced), 1 pint shrimps, and 1 pint water; cover and cook slowly half hour. Wash and flake % pound salt cod, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil; drain, and. repeat; when it comes to boil- ing the second time, squeeze dry, chop and sprinkle over the shrimps, with 1 level tea- spoonful salt. Moisten 1 tablespoonful flour in a little cold water, stir it in carefully, boil a moment, add a tablespoonful butter, and serve. Potato Chowder 5 medium-sized potatoes; 3 thin slices of bacon, 1 pint milk, 1 medium-sized onion; 2 teaspoonfuls Worcestershire sauce; 1 table- 398 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH spoonful flour; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 tea- spoonful salt; % saltspoonful pepper; a dash of cayenne. Pare the potatoes, slice them one-third of an inch; then cut in squares one inch or so across, throw them in cold water. Slice the onion, cut the bacon in dice, and fry together to a delicate brown. Drain the fat into a deep saucepan, put in the potatoes, distributing the crisped bacon with the salt and pepper through them. Nearly cover with boiling water and cook with- out stirring until the potatoes are tender, which will take fifteen or twenty minutes, Rub the flour and butter together, add the hot milk, blend well; stir it carefully into the chowder, taking care to break the potatoes as little as possible. Let it boil until th6 flour is cooked, add thei Worcestershire sauce with hot toasted crackers. Corn Chowder 1 dozen well-filled «ars sweet corn; 1 pint sliced and peeled tomatoes ; 1 onion ; 3 medium- sized potatoes ; 1 slice fat salt pork ; 1 pint milk ; 1 teaspoonful salt; 1 saltspoonful pepper; 1 tablespoonful flour; 1 heaping tablespoonful butter. Pare and slice the potatoes and put them to soak in plenty of cold water. Cut the corn CHOWDERS 399 from the cob, and put the latter in water enough to well cover, and boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Cut the pork in dice, slice the onion, and fry them together. Drain the water from the boiled cobs, add to it the fat, strained from the pork and onion; put in the potatoes, corn, tomatoes, and seasoning, and cook until the potatoes are tender. Eub the flour and butter to a cream with a little of the cold milk; have the rest of the milk hot, stir this and the flour and butter in carefully; let it cook until it thickens, and serve very hot with thin toasted crackers. Game Soup Use 2 grouse or partridges, or, if neither can be had, use a pair of rabbits; half a pound of lean ham; 2 medium-sized onions; 1 pound of lean beef; 2 stalks of celery cut into inch- lengths, 3 quarts of water ; fried bread ; pepper and salt to taste. Joint the game neatly; cut the ham and onions into small pieces and fry all to a light brown. Put into the soup-pot with the beef, which has been cut into strings, and a little pepper. Pour the water on; heat slowly, and stew gently for two hours. Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a bowl; cook the soup an hour longer, strain through a sieve, and add the two stalks of celery. 400 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Simmer for ten minutes, pour upon fried bread in the tureen. A GROUP OF FOREIGN SOUPS, ETC. Portuguese Soup Soak 8 selected prunes in cold water over- niglit ; in the morning drain the prunes and add to the water in which they were soaked enough stock to make a quart, and 3 leeks cut in two- inch pieces ; sinjmer till tender, then put in the prunes and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with strips of toast. For four persons. Court-bouiHon Fry 3 sliced onions in 2 tablespoonfuls butter in bottom of stewpan, without burning; add 1 tablespoonful flour, mix well ; add slowly 1 pint beef stock ; when smooth, ;put in 1 pound sliced fish, 2 peeled and sliced tomatoes, and 1 cup claret or % cup vinegar; then another layer of fish and tomatoes. Simmer half an hour. Let the fish be skinned and boned. Bouillabaisse "Bring me a bowl of bouillabaisse." — ThaCkeeay. Put a gill of sweet oil into a kettle, with 2 medium-sized onions and 2 cloves of garlic, chopped fine; shake over the fire till golden brown. CHOWDERS 401 Add 1% pounds each of halibut and haddock, washed and sliced, and a bay leaf, 2 cloves, 2 thin slices of lemon; a tomato, peeled, and the seeds pressed out; a teaspoonful salt, and a saltspoonful pepper. Cover, and cook slowly twenty minutes ; add a quart of boiling water and bring to a boil and skim. Put in a dozen clams or oysters, a tablespoon- ful chopped parsley. Have a lobster (or a half-dozen crawfish) ready boiled and hot; dish the fish on a platter, with the oysters around the edge, and the lobster on top, sprinkled with chopped parsley. Add a teaspoonful of " kitchen bouquet " to the soup in kettle, and pour over 6 large crou- tons ia a deep dish. Serve a crouton, a piece of fish, one af lobster, some oysters, then a ladle of soup. This takes the place of both soup and fish in the order of dishes. Pot au Feu For ten persons take 4 pounds of beef ,— let it be the rump or round of beef,— a marrow- bone, and with 3 quarts of cold water, and a teaspoonful of salt, heat slowly and carefully, removing scum as it rises. Keep adding a tablespoonful of cold water to assist its doing so, and skim most particularly until the soup 402 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH is clear. Wlien it is thoroughly skimmed, cover tightly to keep out the dust, and let simmer gently for two hours. Add an onion stuck with 3 cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, 5 or 6 outer stalks of celery, a leek, 2 carrots, e bay leaf, a turnip, and a teaspoonful of whole pepper. The vegetables should be added grad- ually, that the temperature of the soup may not be lowered. Let the vegetables simmer gently and continuously for two hours longer, or until they are tender. Add a little more pepper and salt, if required, and serve the bouillon in a tureen, and, as a remove, the bouilli (meat) and vegetables. Time for cooking, five hours from the time it begins to boil. Beer Soup (German Method) Simmer 2 quarts of mild beer (it should not be bitter) with the thin rind of a lemon, a few cloves, and a stick of cinnamon; sweeten with sugar, and add it, through a sieve, to the well- beaten yolks of 6 eggs and half a pint of cream. Whilst pouring into the tureen, stir into a froth with a wire whisk. The beer should be very hot, but not boiling, when stirred into the eggs. Serve hot with toast. Time, about half an hour to simmer. There will be sufficient of this for eight or ten persons. CHOWDERS 403 Fruit Soups On a blistering hot day fruit soups served very cold are sometimes more acceptable than one that must be served very hot to be pala- table. For this purpose cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, and other meaty fruits are best. They may be used separately for a soup that takes its name from the fruit used, or may be combined and called simply fniit soup or given a more fanciful name from some flavoring used. These soups are only slightly sweetened, as the tartness is an agreeable preface to a hot- day dinner. 1 pint crushed fruit; 1 pint water; i^ pint red wine or % glassful currant or raspberry jelly; a stick of cinnamon; a blade of mace; juice and a little grated rind of lemon ; 2 table- spoonfuls sugar ; 2 tablespoonfuls arrowroot. Stew the fruit in the water until soft, crack a few of the stones, and add the kernels w^hile cooking. Strain through a coarse strainer, using a silver spoon to press the pulp through the strainer. Put back into the saucepan ; add the lemon juice, sugar, and arrowroot, which has been mixed with cold water, stirring con- stantly until it thickens. Let it cook until the arrowroot is clear. Add the jelly and stir until dissolved. Take from the fire and cool, then add the wine, and put on the ice until thor- 404 ^ 30UPS, CHOWDERS/ AND FISH oughly chilled. Serve in bouillon cups, with bits of cracked ice and a few whole cherries or firm red raspberries to each cup. Small triangles of buttered toast, or toastel wafers, may be served as an adjunct. Should the water boil down while the fruit is cooking, add more. It should be the con- sistency of a thick fruit syrup when strained. Cider Soup Put a pint of cider, just beginning to work, into a kettle; add a pint of water, and bring to a boil. Add a tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth in a little cold water, and cook a few moments before adding a cup of boiliag milk, sugar to taste, and cimiamon to flavor. Serve with toast. Apple Soup Put 4 cups of peeled and quartered apples over to cook, with water to keep them from scorching. When mushy rub through a sieve, add a piat and a half of water, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a little cinnamon. Thicken very slightly with corn starch. Dried plums, prunes, or cherries may be soaked over- night, then cooked in the same way. Chocolate Soup Sweet soups are essentially German, but they are nearly always welcome in families where CHOWDERS 405 there are children or the aged. Chocolate soup is especially nourishing. Put a quarter of a pound of grated chocolate* into a saucepan with 3 pints of milk, which should be boiling when the chocolate goes in. Sweeten to taste, and cook fifteen minutes. Before serving stir in the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten up in a little milk, and a pinch of salt. Pour this over fried dice of bread or rolls, and serve ; or serve with waferettes, butterines, or saltines. Just before serving, the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs may be cooked in spoonfuls on the top. German Farina Blocks Beat an egg till fairly light; stir in 4 table- spoonfuls farina slowly, that it may not lump, till about the consistency of molasses ; ^dd % teaspoonful salt. Heat 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil, pour in the farina mixture, and brown slowly, for at least ten minutes. Turn, like a pancake, and brown on other side; lift carefully and drain on clean brown paper; cut into %-inch cubes, put into soup tureen, and pour over the hot seasoned stock. Force-meat Balls Take chicken, veal, beef, or any left-over meat, chop fine enough to make 40 tablespoon- fuls, which will be sufficient for six people. Mix 406 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH with an equal quantity of bread crumbs, season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a few drops of onion juice. Mix in thoroughly the yolk of an egg, make into tiny balls, and drop into a small quantity of the boiling stock. .Do not let them boil rapidly, or they will break apart. Cook five minutes, drain, put into soup tureen; pour in the hot stock. Matzoth Soup Balls Jewish Recipe Soak 3 matzoth in cold water, squeeze dry, and add 1 pint meal. Put 1 tablespoonfu) rendered suet in a frying-pan with 6 sliced onions, and cook till brown; then add the matzoth, 6 well-beaten eggs, % teaspoonful salt, and 1 saltspoonful each of mace, ginger, and pepper. Shape into balls, drop into hot oil, and cook slowly, so they will not break to pieces, for half an hour. Liver Klosse (for Soup) Take % calf's livpr and mince it small; mix with 4 ounces of finely shredded suet, 2 table- spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2 eggs, and as much crumb of bread, soaked in milk and pressed dry, as will bind CHOWDERS 407 it together. Form into egg-s)iaped balls, cook these in salted boiling water half an hour, and serve in soup. Half a teaspoonful of any herb powder that is liked may be added with the parsley. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Caramel— or Burnt Sugar For Sauces and Soups Put a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar into a porcelain-lined saucepan, and place over a moderate fire. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon until it is of a dark brown color ; then add* 1 pint of cold water. Draw it to one side and let simmer for a quarter of an hour. Strain, and bottle for use. If the fire is too hot, the caramel will be discolored. A few drops added to sauces or soups will give the desired color. Croutons Cut bread (stale) into %-inch slices, remove the crust, and cut into i/^-inch strips and then into y2-inch cubes. Fry in hot clarified fat until lightly browned, then drain ; or place in baking- pan in very hot oven, and serve. FISH To be either wholesome or palatable, fish must be thoroughly cooked. If boiled suffi- ciently the flesh is apt to break in pieces, and since boiling extracts the juice, unless it is one of the finer flavored fish, it is improved by some other method of cooking than boiliag. The more common varieties can be boiled to advan- tage ; salmon is a perfect fish for boiliflg, keep- ing its delicious flavor unimpaired. Mackerel is one of the best fish for boiling, and a thick cut of halibut is delicious boiled and served with a HoUandaise or egg sauce. Cod, bluefish, and haddock may be either boiled or steamed by handling carefully to pre- vent their breaking, and made very tempting by the garnishing of lemon that is required and by serving with them a highly seasoned sauce. If there is no fish-kettle, a drainer on which to boil the fish may be improvised by using a perforated pie-plate. Fasten a strong twine or piece of picture wire through the holes in opposite sides of the plate in such a way that it will serve as handles to lift by without tip- ping from side to side. On this lay the fish, 408 FISH 409 and let it down in the kettle. Or an ordinary plate may be used, tying it in a square of muslin. By this means the fish can be lifted out of the water without breaking. If the fish is of a very tender variety, binding it with strips of cheesecloth or thin muslin will prevent its breaking and keep it in shape. Boiling should be done gently, as rapid boil- ing will cause the outside to fall apart before it is thoroughly cooked inside. Lemon should always enter into the cooking or serving of fish ; nothing else will as effectu- ally cut the oil, though a piquant sauce made with the best of vinegar will, by its high season- ing, be a sufficient dressing for the drier or less oily kinds. From six to ten minutes for each pound, ac- cording to the thickness of the fish or cut, is re- quired for boiling. It is done when the flesh is tender and falls easUy from the bone. Coquilles of Fish Take a pint of cold boiled fish, free it of skin and bones, and break it into small pieces. Put it into a saucepan with half a pint of boiling water, a tablespoonful of thick cream, a table- spoonful of butter rolled in flour, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir all together over the fire until it becomes 27 4»0 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH thoroughly heated, then fill buttered shells with the mixture and cover with fried crumbs. Set in the oven until they become heated. Serve on a napkin. Savory Fish Cakes Boil together the heads, tails, fins, and bones of any fish in enough water to cover them. Season with onion juice, herbs, a little mace, and salt and pepper. Mince the fish, and mix together 2 parts of fish to 1 of bread crumbs. Moisten with melted butter and the white of an egg, and fry nearly ten minutes in butter. Strain the gravy and put it into a stewpan with the fish. Cover the kettle closely, and stew gently for fifteen minutes. Fish h la Cr&me 1 pound of salt fish ; 1 pint of milk; yolks of 2 eggs; 1 tablespoonful of butter; 1 tablespoon- ful of flour; 1 teaspoonful of salt; 1 teaspoonful (scant) of pepper. Let the fish soak overnight or for several hours. Next day boil the fish and then pick apart into large flakes. Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, and let it come to a boil. Remove from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, the fish, and the seasoning. "When thoroughly heated, turn into a buttered baking- FISH 411 dish, sprinkle bread crumbs over tbe top, and place in a hot oven to brown. Be careful not to bake it too long, as the egg will separate. Scalloped Fish Use the remnants of cold boiled or baked fish; if baked, use the stuffing and any of the sauce for moistening. Eemove all bones and skin, and flake the fish. Into a well-buttered baking-dish put a layer of fish, a layer of stuffing, then one of well- buttered bread crumbs, moistening with cream sauce, or sweet cream, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fill the dish with layers of fish and crumbs, covering with crumbs well but- tered. Bake until nicely browned. Fish with Mashed Potato Take any cold fish, either boiled, baked, or fried. Free from all skin and bones, flake into medium-sized pieces. Butter a baking-dish; line the bottom and sides with smoothly mashed potato, that is well seasoned and beaten light with one lightly beaten egg. Leave the potato quite thick around the edges of the pan, and do not smooth it on top, but leave as rough as possible. Add to the flaked fish one-half as much bread crumbs and moisten with white sauce or any 412 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH fish sauce that may be left over; season with salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of Worces- tershire or chili sauce ; fill the space left in the middle of the potato, dot the top of the potato with bits of butter, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes, or until the potato is nicely browned. Serve in the same dish. Eemnants of cold meat may be treated in the same way. The fish or meat should have enough sauce or gravy to make it quite moist, and should be quite highly seasoned. Fish Cutlets Cut cod, haddock, or any good-sized, firm fish into slices the size and shape for cutlets, sprinkle each with salt and pepper, roll in fine cracker crumbs ; then dip in beaten ngg to which a spoonful of milk has been added, then in the crumbs again. Fry, until well done and a nice brown, in butter or good beef drippings. Put the cutlets on a hot platter, and pour around them a hot tomato sauce. Fish Croquettes Take the remnants of cold boiled or baked fish. Remove every bone and break into fine bits. To 1 cup of fish allow % cup of rich white sauce. Heat the sauce, remove from the fire, and add 1 beaten egg. Add the fish, and with a fork mix and ))eat thoroughly. FISH 4J3 Season with salt and pepper and Worcester shire sauce, adding, if liked, two or three drops of onion juice. Add V2-cup of bread crumbs that have been slightly browned in butter. Mix thoroughly; if too stiff, add a little more sauce or sweet cream. When cool* form into balls, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat until they are a nice brown. Boil the bones, head, and tail of the fish with a small onion in sufficient water to make a sauce. Strain off the liquor and season with anchovy and tomato. Thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth with cold water. Serve very- hot with the sauce poured around the croquettes. Fish P^t6 Free a piat of any cold cooked fish of skin and bone, and shred fine. Put into a saucepan and add 1 pint of milk, 2 well-beaten eggs, i/4 of a cupful of flour mixed well with a little of the milk. Season with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir until it is as thick as cream. Put alternate layers of sauce, fish, and bread crumbs into a buttered baking-dish, and set in the oven until it becomes a golden brown. It will take only a short time to cook. Casserole of Fish Any kiad of cold cooked fish may be used. Flake the fish, season with salt and pepper and a little Worcestershire sauce, and moisten with 4J4 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH cream sauce or thick cream. To each cup of flaked fish allow 1 hard-boiled egg and 1 cup of well-seasoned mashed potatoes. Butter a mould of the right size, line it with the potato, and fill the case with alternate layers of fish, slices of egg, aVid mashed potato. Steam twenty minutes, or bake ia a moderately hot oven fifteen minutes. Turn out on a hot plat- ter, and garnish with oress or parsley. Fish en Matelote Take any good, firm fish, clean it well, and cut it into strips two or three inches long. Sprinkle with salt, and set aside. Peel and slice 2 onions, put them in a saucepan, and boil until tender; drain. Season with salt and pep- per, pour in a teacupful of hot water and half a teacupful of sherry; add the fish, and set over the fire to simmer. When ready to serve, drop a tablespoonful of butter rolled in flour into the saucepan, and let it all come to a boil. Rissoles of Fish To any quantity or kind of cold cooked fish, weighed after the bones and skin have been re- moved, add a third part of grated bread crumbs, a finely minced boiled onion, some cold white sauce, and the yolks of 2 eggs ; season with pepper and salt. Make puff paste, roll it thin, and cut it into squares of two inches. A C0L0NIALTHANK5GIVING DINNER IN THE • TWENTIETH • CENTURY By Arv.iv.ji Wells Morrisotx JNDULCD THEDAY THSTHOUSDTHEIRANNUAL- GRAIN ^ITH FEASTS AND OFFERINGS AND A THANKFUDSTRAipi -POPE- Thanksgiving Dinner (Continued) FISH 4J5 Place abput a teaspoonful of the mince on each square, and fold over with paste. Wet the edges of the paste, before closing them, that they -may adhere, and fry in boiling fat, first egging and covering the rissoles with bread crumbs. Serve dry. Garnish with fried pars- ley. Fish ^ la Paris Cut any good, firm fish into small pieces, dredge with salt, pepper, and flour, and fry until brown in butter. Turn into a pot contain- ing a pint of boiling water and half a teacupful of vinegaj. Add a finely chopped onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and a teaspoonful each of ground mace, cloves, and allspice. Cover closely, and simmer for an hour. Serve very hot, and garnish with sweet fennel. Broiled Bluefish Split the fish down the back and soak for half an hour in strong salted water. Dry thor- oughly with a towel, rub. the broiler with salt fat pork or butter before putting the fish in. Broil under a gas flame or over clear hot coals. A medium-sized fish will require about twenty minutes to broil. Broil the flesh-side first, and turn frequently. Serve on a hot platter gar- nished with cress and lemon, and pour over the fish a little melted butter. 4J6 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND nSH Bluefish may also be pan-broiled, by laying it flesb-side down on a well-greased, very bot griddle. Wben well browned, turn carefully witb a pancake turner so as not to break the fish. Serve with Lyonnaise or French fried potatoes. Baked Bluefish Clean and scrape the fish, split down the back, and remove the backbone, which can be done with a boning knife. Score the skin with- out cutting into the flesh, making five or six incisions. Eun the sharp point of the knife under the skin sufficiently to insert a thin slice of sweet salt pork. Make a stufGbig of 1 cup bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter or finely chopped salt pork, a teaspoonful of chopped onion, the same of chopped parsley, a saltspoon- ful of salt, a dash of cayenne and a balf tea- spoonful of kitchen bouquet, and a spoonful of tomato catsup. Mix well and, if too dry, add a tablespoonful of hot Water. Fill the fish and sew up the opening. If a richer 'and more moist dressing is desired, add a well-beaten egg without any water. Lay 2 or 3 slices of pork under the fish to prevent its sticking to the pan, and baste sev- eral times with the fat while baking. When cooked and well-browned lift, without break- FISH 4J7 ing, to the hot platter, and garnish with sliced lemon and watercress. Baked Fresh Codfish with Cheese Sauce Lay a square or oblong of fish in salt water for half an hour; wipe dry, and rub well with lemon juice and butter. Put a cupful of strained veal stock, or weak gravy, in the bottom of the baking-pan under the grating. Do not let it touch the fish. Lay the fish on the grating, salt and pepper it, cover, and bake, allowing ten minutes to a pound. Take from the oven; sift dry fine crumbs over it, and place small pieces of butter on these. Return to the oven, uncovered, and let it brown while you strain the gravy from the pan. Thicken the gravy with butter rolled in flour, season with the juice of a lemon, a little onion juice, and 4 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Boil one minute, pour a little round the fish, and the rest into the gravy-boat. Baked Chowder Gut 2 pounds of cod, or any other firm fish, into inch-squares. Fry a small sliced onion in a large tablespoonful of butter, strain, and return butter to frying-pan. Put the small squares of fish into the pan and toss and turn them until they become well coated. Pack the 418 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH fish in a buttered bake-dish alternately with slices of parboiled potatoes, half a pound of finely minced salt pork, small pieces of butter which have been rolled in flour, minced parsley, and 2 chopped tomatoes. Pour over this a large cupful of oyster liquor which has been seasoned with salt and paprika. Cover with split Boston crackers that have soaked half an hour in milk. Cover the dish and bake for an hour. ^Then remove the cover and brown. Baked Creamed Codfish Clean the tail of a cod, boil it in salted water, adding a sprig of parsley. When it is cooked, drain and wipe it; then open down the back, take out the bones, and separate the meat into pieces. Place them in layers in a dish, and between the layers a little bechamel sauce thinned with cream, a small piece of butter, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Sprinkle the top with a few bread crumbs, and set in the oven to brown. Cod d la Bechamel Remove the fish from the bones and break into small pieces. Put a cupful of nicely sea- soned white stock and a cupful of fresh milk into a saucepan. Thicken with a little butter rubbed into a little flour, add the fish, and let it remain until it becomes thoroughly heated, nSH 419 but do not allow the sauce to boil. Turn the fish and sauce out on a hot platter, and serve with a border of mashed potato. It takes about , twenty minutes to prepare this dish, Biscayan Cod Remove the bones from 2 pounds of cod, and soak in cold water overnight. Put over the fire in fresh water, and heat slowly to boiling, then add fresh water and boil again; take out and scale. Heat a gill of oil, and fry in it 2 chopped onions and a green pepper for a few minutes, and put in a bruised clove of garlic, a sliced tomato, and a chili pepper; add 3 pints of broth, and season with 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and a bunch of parsley; then add a pint of peeled potatoes, and cook twenty min- utes : then put in tte cod, boil for twenty min- utes longer and serve. Salted Cod with Brown Butter Soak the fish in cold water overnight; if not sufficiently freshened, put in boiling water a few minutes; long-continued soaking deprives the fish of its flavor as well as saltness. Wash carefully, put over the fire, and let it slowly come to a boil. Move the kettle to back of stove, skim, ajid boil gently for forty minutes. Heat a little butter, and in it brown a few 420 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH sprigs of parsley; pour this over the fish, and serve at once. Baked Cod*s Head Head and portion of the shoulders of cod; 1 teaspoonful of onion juice; % pound of veal or chicken ; 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; 1 teaspoonful of salt ; 1 saltspoonful of pepper. Trim and wash the fish. Chop the veal, add- ing the onion juice, parsley, salt, and pepper. Fill the fish with this mixture, place in the baking-pan with half a cupful of water. Bake three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently. When the head is nearly done, baste with melted butter, and sprinkle browned bread crumbs over it. Serve with brown sauce. Broiled Salt Cod Select a moderately thick, fleshy piece of cod that has been boned. Lay it in a shal- low dish and pour boiling water over and let it stand five or ten minutes, if very salt or if it is liked very much freshened. Pour off this water and put more boiling water on and let it stand another five minutes ; put it on the broiler and broil over hot coals or under a gas flame, letting it brown, but taking care that it does not burn. Take it out on a hot platter, cover generously with butter, dust with pepper, and serve with potato cakes and brown bread or corn mufiins FISH 42J or buttered brown-bread toast. Smoked fisb, salmon, or halibut may be cooked in the same way. Creamed Salt Codfish Cut a sufficient amount of fish into small pieces, cover it with cold water and let it come to a boil, and simmer until tender. Drain, and pick it into small bits, but do not mince it too fine. Make a cream sauce by rubbing together 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 1 of flour and add to, it 1 cup of milk. Boil until it thickens, and if not perfectly smooth, strain it. Put in the fish, add pepper, and let it heat thor- oughly. Or omit the flour, and after the fish is thor- oughly heated in the milk and butter, stir in a well-beaten egg and remove from the fire. Stir briskly until the sauce is thick and crealny. Add a dash of paprika. Baked potatoes, and Graham or entire wheat gems or muffins, are good accompaniments, or it may be served on crisp squares of toast. Beauregard Cod Boil a pound of cod and set it aside to get cold. Flake with a silver fork into small pieces. Heat a pint of fresh milk in a double boiler, thicken it with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed into 2 of butter. Stir in the fish, season to 422 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH taste, and cook five minutes. Turn out in a dish containing squares of buttered toast. Have 4 hard-boiled eggs ready, with the yolks powdered and the whites cut into rings. Sprinkle the powdered yolks over the fish and lay the rings around the edge of the platter. Boiled Fresh Codfish Lay a square, ' ' chunky ' ' piece of fish in salt and water for an hour. Sew it up in a piece of white mosquito netting, put in a kettlf with enough boiling water to cover it well, add 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and cook steadily, allowing ten minutes to the pound. Unwrap the fish and pour over it egg sauce. Salt Codfish Balls Put the codfish in cold water and let it come to a boil; then pour off the water, cover with fresh boiling water, and simmer slowly until tender. Eemove the bones and mince the fish fine. Boil potatoes and mash while hot, beat- ing them until light and smooth, as if to be served alone. Add butter, pepper, and a little milk or cream. Use 1 cup of minced fish to 2 cups of mashed potatoes ; mix well and add enough well-beaten egg to bind, and have the mixture just moist enough to make into balls. Form intb round FISH 423 balls two inches in diameter, and fry in a basket xxi. deep, Iiot fat until a rich brown. Serve with these steaming hot Boston brown bread, kept hot in a steamer and sliced at the last moment. Codfish Cakes Prepare the fish and potatoes the same as for codfish balls; add a little finely minced parsley. Shape it into flat cakes three-fourths of an inch thick. Saute until a rich brown on both sides with slices of salt pork or bacon, removing the pork to a hot platter as soon as nicely crisped, and arranging it around the cakes. By cooking the fish the day before it is wanted, and using mashed potatoes left from dinner, or made ready with the fish, these cakes can be quickly prepared for breakfast. Codfish Fillets, Hollandaise Put the desired number of fillets of cod in a buttered stewpan, with 1 gill of stock; sprinkle lightly with minced parsley, and set either in the oven or on the stove to cook. When done, place on a dish with a border of mashed potato, and serve. Codfish, Maitre d'Hdtel Trim your fillets of cod and roll them in flour. Beat and season 2 eggs, dip the fillets in these, and then roll in sifted bread crumbs and fry 424 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH to a golden brown. Serve with maitre d 'hotel sauce in a boat. Codfish Hash Flake a cupful of cooked cod, and add grad- ually 2 cupfuls boiled potatoes; season with salt and pepper to taste; cook gently in hot butter. Codfish in Cream Sauce % pound of codfish; 1 pint of milk; yolk of 1 egg; 2 tablespoonfuls of butter; 2 tablespoon- fuls of flour ; 1 saltspoonful of salt ; 1 saltspoon- ful of pepper. Soak the cod overnight in cold water. In the momiug pick it apart and place it in a kettle of boiling water ; bring to the boiling point and drain. Place in boiling water again, and let it cook slowly about ten minutes. Drain. Cook the flour and butter together until smooth, add the milk," and when it begins to boil add the codfish, salt, and pepper. Place over hot water for twenty miuutes, then add the yolk of the egg and serve immediately. Serve in a border of mashed potatoes, or with plain boiled po- tatoes. Codfish h la Bonne Femme Soak 3 pounds of salt codfish overnight. In the morning wash and rinse the pieces well and cut into strips. Wash and peel a quart of po- FISH 425 tatoes and put them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of cold water ; add half a tablespoonful of salt, 4 sprigs of parsley, and 1 clove stuck in an onion. Boil twenty-five minutes, then add the pieces of codfish. Cook slowly for ten minutes.' Take the fish out and place it on a hot platter, removing all pieces of skin and bone. Drain the potatoes, then place them around the fish. Put 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour into a small saucepan and stir for three minutes, but do not let it brown. Slowly pour into the saucepan 1 pint of the strained water in which the fish was cooked. Season with half a saltspoonful of pepper and let it simmer for eight minutes. Eemove from the fire and add the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of vinegar, and 1 table- spoonful of butter. Mix well together and pour over the fish and potatoes. Serve very hot. Codfish with Macaroni 2 ounces of macaroni ; % pound of salt cod ; % pint of strained tomatoes ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; 1 tablespoonful of flour ; 1 tablespoonful of onion juice; 1 teaspoonful of salt; 1 salt- spoonful of pepper. Break the macaroni into small pieces and boil rapidly for half an hour ; drain ; throw into cold water and let stand for fifteen minutes. "Wash 28 426 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH and cut the codfish into small blocks. The fish should have soaked overnight. Rub the flour and butter together, add the tomato, and let it come to a boil, stirring con- stantly. Now add. the macaroni, fish, onion juice, salt, and pepper. Mix uuiil boiling, stand over hot water for thirty minutes. Matelote of Codfish Wash and rinse a medium-sized cod; wipe until dry and remove the bones. Fill the fish with a dressing made of % pint of oysters, a small pint of bread crumbs, 2 teaspoonfuls of butter, Yz an onion, 1 egg, % tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper. Lay some slices of salt pork on the grating of your baking-pan; place the fish on these, and lay more slices on top of the fish. Boil the fish- bones in a pint of water and pour into the bot- tom of potatoes and put them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of cold water. Add % table- spoonful of salt, 4 sprigs of parsley, and 1 clove stuck in an onion. Boil twenty-five minutes, then add the pieces of codfish. Cook slowly for ten minutes. Take the fish out and place it on a hot platter, removing all pieces of skin and bone. Drain the potatoes, then place them around the fish. Put 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour into a small saucepan FISH 427 and stir for three minutes, but do not let it brown. Slowly potir into the saucepan 1 pint of the strained water in which the fish was cooked. Season with % saltspoonful of pep- per, and let it simmer for eight minutes. Re- move from the fire and place in the pan. Bake for an hour, basting occasionally with the gravy and the butter. Have a bouquet of herbs in one corner of your baking-pan. Pour the gravy around the fish and serve immediately. Codfish Souffl6 % pound of salt cod ; 2 eggs ; 1 pint of mashed potatoes ; 1 saltspoonful of pepper. Pick the fish apart and wash it well in cold water ; then cover with boiling water •and let stand for thirty minutes ; drain, and press dry. Beat the mashed potato until very light, stir in the fish, add the pepper, then the yolks of the eggs, and lastly, fold in the whites of the eggs, which have been well beaten. Put into a baking-dish, and bake in a hot oven until a golden brown. This souflSe is good to take the place of cod- fish balls. Stewed Codfish % pound of salt codfish ; 1 tablespoonful but- ter; 1 quart of milk; 2 potatoes; 2 crackers; % teaspoonful salt; 1 saltspoonful of pepper. 428 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Soak the codfish overnight in cold water. When ready to make the stew, cut the fish into small pieces and put into the stewing-pan with the potatoes, which have been cut into blocks. Cover with boiling water, and boil for ten min- utes ; then drain, and add the milk. When the milk has become scalding hot, add the crackers, which should be crushed fine. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. A Salt-Cod Tidbit Soak 2 pounds of salt cod overnight. In the morning wash and scrub it well, and cover with hot water in which an onion has been boiled. Let the fish lie in this until the water is cold. Then t^e the fish up and place between two towels until perfectly dry. Broil on both sides, turning it twice. Lay it in a hot-water dish; break to piecps with a fork, and cover well with hot drawn but- ter, seasoned with pepper, minced parsley, and the juice of 1 lemon. Let it stand, covered, for ten minutes over the hot water before serving. Cod Tongues with Egg Sauce Soak the tongues overnight in warm water, changing it once. Put them in boiling water and boil for ten minutes. Have hot pieces of toast on small platter; cover the tongues with egg sauce, and serve them on the toast. FISH 429 Cod Tongues, Fried Have 2 dozen cod tongues washed; dip eacli separately in cold milk, then roll in flour. Heat 2 tablespoon fuls of butter in a frying-pan, lay in the tongues without their touching each other, and cook three minutes; turn, and cook on the other side for three minutes more. .Serve with a gill jot tomato sauce in a sauce- boat. Cod Tongues, Poulette Blanch 18 tongues ; put into saucepan with a pint of Hollandaise sauce and I/2 giU ot the stock in which they were blanched. Add a tea- spoonful chopped parsley, and heat a few min- utes without allowing it to boil. Turn into dish, sprinkle over a little finely chopped pars- ley, and serve. Cod Tongues with Black Butter Sauce Put into a saucepan 18 blanched cod tongues with half a gill of the stock they were blanched in; let them get hot, but do not boil. Drain and lay on hot dish ; pour over them a pint of black butter sauce. Broiled Mackerel Select a medium-sized fresh mackerel, wash, and wipe very dry. Take out the gills and insides. Split it down the back and wipe the inside thor- 430 SOUPS, CHOWDER^, AND FISH ougMy. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and brush it over with a little butter. Put it on the broiler with the inside next to the fire, which must be clear and hot. When nearly done, turn and cook on the outside. It is done when the backbone can be easily removed. Take out the bone, lay the fish on a hot platter with the in- side uppermost, and pour over it a tablespoon- ful of butter, 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of minced parsley, salt, and pep- per, and set it in the oven for a few minutes until the butter and lemon juice are absorbed. Boiled Mackerel (German Method) Clean a large fresh mackerel and split it down the back. Put it in a dripping-pan and pour over it a pint of boiling water, 2 table- spoons of vinegar, a squeeze of lemon juice, and a teaspoon of salt. Add a medium-sized onion cut in quarters. Boil for three-quarters of an hour. Remove the fish to a hot platter. Strain the liquor in the pan, add a doizen capers, let it boil up, and turn over the fish. Mackerel Broiled, and Tarragon Butter Eemove the inside of the fish through the gills and vent without opening it. Wash, clean, dry, and make a deep incision down the back; lay the fish in a little salad-oil; keep it well basted for about three-quarters of an hour, but FISH 43J cut off the nose or part of the head and tail be- fore it is steeped in the oil. Broil over a clear fire, and when done, have ready the following mixture, with which fill up the incision : Work a little butter, pepper, salt, and tarragon-leaves chopped and steeped in vinegar together. When ready, serve the mackerel with some of the but- ter spread over it on a hot dish. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to broil. Mackerel, Caveach Divide large fresh fish, after being well cleansed and dried in a cloth, into 5 pieces, and rub each piece with spice, as follows: Pound an ounce of black pepper and 6 blades of mace ; mix them when pounded with 2 ounces of salt, and % ounce of grated nutmeg. Use all the above spices for 6 fish, rubbing well in, that every piece may be thoroughly seasoned with spice; then fry in oil. Drain, and put the fish neatly into a jar, which fill with good vinegar, adding clarified butter or oil to exclude the air. Tie down closely. Mackerel so prepared will keep for six months. Time, ten minutes to fry. Baked Fresh Mackerel with Oyster Dressing Scrape and clean the fish; make an opening in the side and remove the entrails, cut off the 432 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH head and tail. Wash well in cold water and fill the opening with a dressing made of 1 dozen oysters, chopped, and 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, the chopped yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs. Season with a half teaspoonful of onion juice, a tablespoonful of butter, a little minced parsley, salt, and pepper. Add the yolk of 1 raw egg, mix well together, and fill the fish. Sew up the opening or skewer it together, with small skewers or modern toothpicks. Lay the fish on a well-buttered baking sheet, put it in the dripping-pan, and dredge with flour, and pour around it a cupful of boiling water and the sauce of stock. Baste often with melted butter and the drippings. Bake in a hot oven, and when done slide, withdut break- ing, on the hot platter and make a brown sauce with the liquor in the pan, adding sufficient boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and more salt and pepper if necessary. Red snapper and other medium firm fish may be baked in the same way. Baked Shad Clean and scale a medium-sized shad. Cut off the head and tail, cut open sufficiently to take out the entrails. Wash in cold water and dry on a towel. Fill the opening with a dress- FISH 433 ing made of 2 cups of bread crumbs, the beaten yolk of 1 egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a few drops of onion juice, or a spoonful of finely minced onion, a tablespoonful of finely powdered sweet herbs, 2 or 3 crushed cloves; a half teaspoonful of salt, pepper, and a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Sew up the opening, lay the fish on the but- tered sheet. Score the fish and put a slice of salt pork in each gash. Dredge lightly with flour, dust with salt and pepper, put it in the baking-pan, pour a cupful of water in the pan, and bake in a hot oven, fifteen minutes for each pound of fish. When done, lift the tin from the pan and slide the fish carefully on to a hot platter. Gfarnish with a border of potato balls and slices of lemon, and serve with a HoUand- aise or sauce piquante. Creamed Shad Free a pint of cold cooked shad from bones and flake it very fine. Make a white sauce by cooking together a tablespoonful of butter with 1 of flour, and when nicely blended, add a pint of rich milk. Now add a few drops of onion juice, and pour slowly upon the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Season- with salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful / 434 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH of minced parsley. Stir the shad into the sauce, then turn into a weil-buttered pudding- dish, sprinkle thickly with fine bread crumbs, and bake about twenty minutes. Broiled Shad Clean the fish, split down the back, wash in cold water, and wipe it dry. Brush lightly with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire or under the gas flame. When the inside is done and nicely browned, turn and broil slightly on the skin side. Serve with a maitre d'hotel sauce, or, if pre- ferred, a bechamel or HoUandaise. Fried Sliad-Roe Wash the roe and cook ten or fifteen minutes in boiling salted water with a tablespoonful of vinegar. Pour off the water and then plunge into cold water. Drain then on a towel and roll in beaten egg and fine cracker crumbs, well seasoned, and fry in very hot fat. Serve with tomato sauce poured around it. Planked Fish-Shad This most tempting of camping-out deli- cacies may be indulged in at the home table, and although the outdoor appetite and some of the delicate flavor imparted by cooking before FISH 435 an open fire may be lacking, this manner of cooking some fish, especially shad, is held by the fish-lover to be second to none. The white-oak planks, with trays for serving the fish without removing from the plank, can be obtained at first-class house-furnishing shops. They should be seasoned before the first using, by rubbing over with sweet butter and heating in allot oven until slightly browned, taking care that they do not scorch. The flavor of the scorched wood will ruin the fish. The planks should not be washed after using, but should be cleaned by scrapiflg with a dull knife and wiping off with cold water. While shad is the fish par excellence for planking, any other fish that is usually split down the whole length may be cooked in this way. Clean and scale the fish and split it open from head to tail. Place it on the board with the skin side down and fasten it securely with pegs or thumb tacks. Stand it on eiid or side before a clear fire or cook under a gas flame. When nearly done, baste with melted butter and shake salt and melted butter over it. If it is to be served on a platter, remove the fastenings, slide it off carefully to the hot platter, and garnish with pickled walnuts and some melted butter flavored with walnut catsup. 436 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Creamed Shad-Roe with Mushrooms Parboil a large shad-roe for two or three minutes, and plnpge it in cold water. Drain and break it in small pieces and saute in butter until brown. Add while in the pan 1 cup of cream, salt, and pepper, and 1/2 cup of mush- rooms cut in small pieces and steiwed for fifteen minutes. Rub a teaspoonful of flour with a little of the cold cream until smooth; stir this in and let it boil up, stirring carefully, without breaking the roe more than necessary. Serve very hot. Scalloped Shad-Roe Boil the roe as before. Break apart with a fork. Butter a baking-dish and put a layer of roe in the bottom. . Sprinkle with minced parsley, a little lemon juice, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg mashed fine or rubbed through a strainer. Then add a thin layer of bread crumbs. Moisten with white sauce. Put in another layer of roe, seasoning, and egg, cover with the crumbs well buttered, and bake imtil nicely browned. If there is a little cold fish, it may be added to the roe. Roe Croquettes Boil the roe as for frying ; when cool, remove the skin and mash it with a fork. To 2 shad- roes allow a half cupful of cream and a half cup- FISH 437 ful of thick stock. Rub together 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour, and add to the boiling cream and stock. Cook until it thickens, take it from the fire, and add the yolks of 2 well- beaten eggs, beating all together, i Season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and a little minced parsley. Add the shad-roe, mix well together, and when cool form into cro- quettes. Dip in beaten egg, then in fine cracker crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with Hol- landaise sauce. Halibut Baked with Milk Scrape the dark skin of the halibut, dipping it in boiling water. Lay the fish in the baking- pan, first rubbing it well with salt and white pepper. Pour around it % to % of a cup of milk. Bake until the flesh loosens and sepa- rates from the bone, basting often with the milk. A 4-pound cut of halibut will require nearly an hour to cook thoroughly. The milk should nearly all cook away or absorb in the fish, and will serve to make it more moist. When done remove to the hot platter without breaking, take off the skin, lift out the bone, garnish with slices of leinon and hard-boiled egg, and serve with cream sauce, plain drawn biitter, or egg sauce. 438 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH This may be varied by filling the cavity left by the bone with buttered crumbs moistened slightly with a little cream sauce, dotting with bits of butter, and putting in the oven until well browned. Serve with tomato sauce. Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce Take a thick cut of halibut, let it lie in salted water for half an hour, then drain and dry it, and put it in the baking-pan with .2 slices of carrot, a slice of onion, and % a bay leaf. Pour over it a cupful of boiling water in which have been melted 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Bake for an hour, basting frequently. A piece of buttered writing paper laid in the bottom of the pan will prevent the fish from sticking and breaking in transferring it to the hot platter. By running a knife or spatula under the paper it can be raised and slid off from the pan, and the paper can then be withdrawn and the skin removed, leaving the fish in shape. Boiled Halibut Have a cut of halibut from 2 to 3 inches ia thickness. Rub with salt, and pour over it 2 spoonfuls of lemon juice and let it stand where it will be kept cold for an hour. Put it in the fish-kettle and cover well with cold water, bring quickly to a boil, then keep it boiling gently until done. Lift carefully to the hot platter FISH 439 without breakmg, garnish with slices of lemon, hard-boiled egg, and serve with plain drawn butter or cream sauce or chop the egg and add to the cream sauce. Broiled Halibut Take halibut steak an inch and a half thick. Wipe dry, sprinkle with salt, and brush it oves with soft butter. Broil over a clear fire until both sides are nicely browned. Place it on a hot platter, garnish with slices of lemon and parsley, and serve with sauce piquante. French fried potatoes and baked tomatoes are a good accompaniment. Devilled Halibut Pick either cold cooked halibut or cod into small pieces with a silver fork. Make a force- meat of bread crumbs, the yolks of 2 eggs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, seasoned with salt, paprika, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and 1 of minced parsley. Mix this with the fish, add enough oyster liquor to make quite moist, and fill scallop-shells with the mixture. Cover with fine crumbs, pepper and salt them, place a small piece of butter on each, and bake until lifeht brown. Halibut h la Creole Marina;te a halibut steak for an hour in oil, lemon juice, and onion, with a sprig of parsley. 440 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Drain, and put the fish on the rack of the roast- ing-pan. Turn over it a sauce made of 1 ciapful of strained tomatoes, a tablespoonful of butter, half a tablespoonful of flour, a few drops of onion juice, salt, and a little paprika. Cover closely, and bake until the fish is tender. Then sift over the fish a tablespoonful of grated Par- mesan or American cheese ; cook with the cover off for five minutes longer. Lift the fish out carefully to a hot platter, and pour the sauce around it. Halibut Steak Baked with Tomatoes "Wash and clean the fish, then lay in salad oil and lemon juice for an hour; place upon the grating of your covered roaster, and pour the following sauce over it: Make a rich sauce of either fresh or canned tomatoes, season with sugar, pepper, salt, and onion juice, and a sweet green pepper, seeded and minced. Cook for fifteen minutes, strain, rub through a col- ander, and then let it cool before pouring over the fish. Cook • thirty minutes. Halibut Steak S la Flamande 1 large halibut steak; 1 chopped onion; yolk of 1 egg ; 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice ; 1 salt- spoonful of pepper; 1 teaspoonful of salt; 1 tablespoonful of butter. ^ash a,nd wipe the steak. Sprinkle the nSH 44V chopped onion over the bottom of a greased baking-pan and lay the fish on this. Turn the beaten yolk of the egg over the steak ; dust with salt and pepper, pour over the lemon juice, and the butter cut into small pieces. Place in a hot oven and bake thirty minutes. Turn out on a hot platter and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with a brown sauce made in the pan the fish was cooked in. Cheese and Halibut Scallop Have 2 cupfuls of cold cooked halibut, flaked coarsely with a fork. Make a good white sauce by cooking together a tablespoonful of drawn butter with 1 of flour, and when nicely blended add a pint of rich milk. Season, and pour slowly upon the well-beaten yolks, of 2 eggs. Fill a bake-dish with alternate layers of the fish, sauce, and very mild grated cheese, using altogether about 4 tablespoonfuls of the cheese. Cover the top with crumbs, bake for thirty min- utes in a hot oven, and serve hot. About ten minutes before serving remove the cover, and brown. Boiled Salmon Clean the salmon and scrape the skin, wipe dry, and put it in the kettle with sufficient boil- ing water to cover it. Keep the kettle where it will boil gently. When done, drain well, re- 29 442 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH move carefully to a hot platter, and serve gar- nished with slices of lemon and hard-boiled eggs. Piquant or HoUandaise sauce is one of the best accompaniments to salmon. A border of Parisienne potatoes piled around the platter, or heaped in mounds alternated with the slices of lemon, makes a pretty dish. The potato baHs should be fried in a frying basket in deep, hot fat until they are a nice brown. Striped bass is excellent boiled in the same way as salmon and served with HoUandaise sauce. Remove the head and tail of any fish that is to be cooked whole. They are most un- appetizing and unsightly. Baked Salmon-Trout with Cream Gravy "Wash, wipe dry; anoint well, inside and out, with melted butter and lemon juice. Lay the fish upon the grating of the baking-pan, pour a little boiling water in, but not enough to touch the fish. Bake, allowing twelve minutes to the pound, and baste twice with butter and twice with water from the pan below. Place the fish in a hot covered dish, and set where it will keep hot while you strain the gravy left in the pan. Add to the gravy a cupful of scalded milk with a pinch of soda. Thicken with a white roux of butter cooked with flour, FISH 443 and season witli salt, paprika, and a little minced parsley. Pour this over the fish ; let it stand a few moments, and serve. • Boiled Salmon-Trout Buy a small fish and, after cleaning it, place it in a kettle with enough boiling water to cover, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the water. The fish should be sewed up in a piece of cheesecloth and placed Carefully into the kettle. Boil, allowing twelve minutes to each pound of fish. When done, remove the fish carefully, and turn out of the cloth upon a hot platter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour a well-seasoned white sauce over it. Garnish the platter with sprigs of parsley and thin slices of lemon. A Curry of Salmon Eemove all bits of skin and bone from a can of salmon. Fry a minced onion in 2 table- spoonfuls of olive oil. When the onion becomes brown, stir in a tablespoonful of flour mixed with a teaspoonful of curry powder, and when these are well blended together add a large cup- ful of boiling water. Season with salt and paprika, and turn the salmon into the saucepan. Cook two minutes, then serve. 444 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Broiled Smoked Salmon Take a piece of raw smoked salmon, wash it in 2 waters, rubbing off all the salt. Lay in a frying-pan with enough warm water to cover it; let it simmer fifteen minutes. Remove it, wipe dry, and lay on a buttered gridiron to broil. When it is browned on both sides, turn out on a hot platter, butter it well, and pepper it. Grarnish with parsley. Salmon Mayonnaise Have a quart of salted water and atablespoon- ful of vinegar boiling in a kettle. Lay 2 salmon steaks carefully in the water. Boil slowly, and when done, but not at all broken, take carefully from the water and drain. Set aside until cool and then place on ice until wanted. Lay the steaks on a cold platter, and cover them smoothly with a thick mayonnaise. Garnish with watercress. Pickled Salmon Take a fine fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large pieces, and boil it in salted water, as if for eating. Drain it, wipe it with a dry towel, and set it in a cold place until the next day. Then make the pickle in proportion to the quantity of fish. To 1 quart of the water in which the salmon was boiled, allow 2 quarts of good cider vinegar, 1 ounce of whole black FISH 445 pepper, 1 grated nutmeg, and a dozen blades of mace. Boil all of these together in a covered kettle. Remove the kettle from the fire, and when the vinegar has become cold, pour it over the salmon and put a tablespoonful of sweet oil on the top to make it keep longer. Cover closely, put in a cool, dry place. This is a nice way to pickle salmon, and it will keep good for many months. Salmon on Toast Toast thin slices of stale bread quite brown and crisp. Butter while hot. Heat 2 cupfuls, or 1 can, of cold salmon picked into small flakes ; add a cupful of lobster sauce, a half cupful of sweet cream, salt, white pepper, and a dash of paprika. When very hot remove from the fire, stir in 1 egg (beaten very light), and pour over the toast. Sift a little very finely minced pars- ley over the top, or garnish with watercress. Drawn butter or oyster sauce may be substi- tuted for the lobster sauce. • Salmon Pie Butter a baking-dish, line the sides with a rich biscuit crust. If fresh salmon is used, rinse thoroughly and wipe dry, cut in conveni- ent pieces, and lay it in the dish. Season with salt and pepper, lemon juice, 1 or 2 blades of mace, broken fine, and, if liked, a few drops of 446 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH onion juice. Pour over the salmon 1 cupful of boiled lobster which has b^en picked apart and thoroughly mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter and a teaspoonful of Worcester- shire sauce. Cover with the crust, cut a few slits to allow the steam to escape. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven. XI!anned salmon may be used instead of the fresh, baking in a quicker oven just long enough to bake the crust. Scallop of Salmon Open a can of salmon two or three hours be- fore using, and remove all bits of skin and bone. Flake the fish into small pieces. Make a white sauce, and when done stir in the salmon. Pour all into a well-buttered pudding-dish, cover with bread crumbs and small pieces of butter, and bake. Baked Smelts with Oyster Force-meat Clean, wash, and wipe dry, then fill with a force-meat made of 1 part fine crumbs, 3 parts finely minced oysters, a tablespoonful of melted butter to each cupful of the force-meat, sea- soned with salt, paprikd, and a little minced parsley. Sew the fish up with long stitches ; lay on the grating of your covered roaster, having a little FISH 447 boiling water under the grating. Bake twenty minutes, basting once with butter when nearly- done. Serve with lemon sauce. The threads should be cut carefully and drawn out before serving. Fried Smelts Cut off the tails and split open, and take out the backbone and insides. Wash and wipe dry. Sprinkle inside and out with salt and pepper, and fry in hot fat. Serve with sauce tar- tare. Or crum^ them and saute in drippings and serve with HoUandaise of sauce piquante. Another way is to open the smelts at the gills and press out the insides by drawing them through the thumb and fingers from the tail end. "Wash out the opening, press dry, cut off the tail, dust with salt and pepper, roll in flour or white cornmeal, or half of each, and fry in deep, hot drippings until crisp and browned. Stuffed Smelts Clean the smelts, wash and wipe dry, and fill them with a stuffing made of bread crumbs and melted butter mixed with an equal amount of tomato, and season with salt and pepper, or with half the amount of tomato catsup. Or add of chopped oysters the same amount as there is of bread crumbs; season with salt and pepper and a very little lemon juice. Sew 448 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH up the opening, lay tliem in a buttered baking- pan, and bake ten or fifteen minutes. Serve with mattre d 'hotel or parsley butter. Flounders au Gratin Cut up parsley, .shallot, and small button- mushrooms very finely. Fry them in butter, with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover the bottom of a tin flat baking-dish, previpusly but- tered, with the herbs,^ and lay on them a floun- der, neatly trimmed, or fillets of- any flat fisli. Strew bread crumbs thickly over, and bits of butter on the top of all. Moisten with white wine. Cook carefully. Crisp the top with a salamander. Serve very hot and with a squeeze of lemon over the dish. Time, twenty minutes. Fried Flounders (English) Lay the fish in salt and water for an hour or more to get rid of the muddy flavor, or rub them well on the sides with sgilt, which will make tl;ie fish firm. Dry them, dip into egg, and cover with bread crumbs. Fry in oil or boiling fat, and serve on a hot napkin. Grarnish with crisped parsley. 'Time, five to ten minutes to fry. Fillets of Flounders Bone the flounders by splitting down the back and removing the backbone, running the boning FISH 449 knife under the small bones and taking the flesh off clear and whole; or the dealer will do this. Cut the flounders into four flUets, after discard- ing head and tail. Wash in cold salted water and wip'e dry. Crumb them by dipping in egg and fine bread crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper and a little minced parsley. Fry (saute) in hot drippings until a rich brown, and serve with maitre d 'hotel or tomato sauce, or any well-seasoned fish sauce. Or make a sauce as follows: Take 1 cup of rich cream sauce or drawn butter, add a table- spoonful of chopped pickles, a teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, a teaspoonful of mus- tard, a tablespoonful of crushed capers, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg (mashed smooth), and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Beat thoroughly together, and serve either hot or cold. Finnan-Haddie h la Delmonico Pick a pound of finnan-haddie into small pieces. Make a sauce by cooking togpther 2 tablespoonfuls' of butter with 2 of flour, until they bubble ; then add a pint of rich mUk. Add the yolks of 2 eggs, well-beaten,, and 3 hard- boiled eggs, cut up fine; 1 tablespoonful of grated Edam cheese, and pepper to taste. Mix the fish with the sauce and heat it all thoroughly together, and serve at once. 450 SOUPS, CHOm)ERS, AND nSH Broiled Finnan-Haddie Cut the finnan-haddie into small squares, skin and parboil ihem. Wipe the squares of fish until they are dry, place on a buttered grid- iron, and broil until they are highly -browned. Lay the fish on a hot platter and put a small piece of butter on each square. Garnish with slices of lemon. Fried Eels Skin the eels, plunge them in boiling salted water, and keep at boiling point for five min- utes. Cut them in pieces about three inches long, and roll in flour or fine cracker crumbs; fry in hot drippings until brown, turning them so they will brown on all sides. Serve with any fish sauce that is liked, preferably one that has lemon juice or vinegar in its composition, Balced Eels Skin and parboil as for frying. Cut in con- venient lengths, put them in a baking-pan, dredge with flour, salt, and pepper, and add half a cup of water. Bake twenty minutes, take them out on a hot platter, and make a gravy by stirring into the pan a tablespoonful of flour, rubbing it smooth in the liquor in the pan. When smooth, but not browned, add a table- spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of Worcester- FISH 4SJ shire, a little boiling water; stir until smooth and bubbling, and pour around the eels. Braised Eels (Royal Style) Skin and wash an eel, and cut in 2-inch pieces; sprinkle with salt and allow them to stand an hour or two. Put into cold water for ten minutes; then dry, and put in a buttered saucepan, season with salt and pepper and a suspicion of nutmeg ; over the whole put a little scraped parsley root, a few whole white pep- pers, and a few slices of lemon and shallots. Put the saucepan over a moderate fire, with hot ashes on the lid, and braise till the fish is done. Take out the pieces of eel and keep hot while you add to the saucepan a cupful of stock; boil a few minutes, then thicken with a white roux; take from the fire, add the slightly beaten yolks of 3 eggs. Let it come to a boil, and strain this into a saucepan with twice the quantity of Ger- man sauce; let it boil once; pour over the eel, and serve. Tuibot a la Cr^me Boil 3 pounds of turbot or cod in salted water. Remove from the fire, take the fish out and free it from all pieces of skin and bone, and flake it finely. Boil 1 bunch of parsley and 1 large onion in a little water to extract the flavor. Drain out the onion and parsley and thicken 452 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH the water with 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, then add 1 quart of very rich milk and I/2 cupful of butter. Put alternate layers of fish and sauce in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle the top thickly with bread crumbs, and bake until brown. Turbot Fillets Select a medium-sized turbot with firm, yel- lowish-white flesh. "Wash well in salted water, and soak in strongly salted water for thirty minutes. Wash off again in clear, cold water, and wipe dry. Take off the skin, and cut the fish in two the whole length. Take out the bone, and remove the entrails ; wash out the in- side, and cut each part into 2 or 3 fillets. Rub with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and saute or broil over hot coals or under a gas flame until a rich brown. Serve with maitre d 'hotel or parsley butter, or cucumber sauce. Garnish with cress. Stuffed Sea Bass After cleaning and wiping the fish, lay it in a marinade of salad oil and vinegar. Fill the fish with minced salt pork and fresh mush- rooms, if you can get them; if not, use chopped champignons. Bake the fish as directed in the last recipe, placing thin slices of pork underneath and on FISH 45i top of the fish. After it has baked about forty minutes, cover with thin slices of tomatoes and half of a minced sweet green pepper. Put some bits of butter upon the tomatoes and bake for twenty minutes more. Take the fish from the pan and set to one side. Strain the gravy, rubbing the pepp'er and tomatoes through a colander, stir in a table- spoonful of butter, rolled in flour, add a tea- spoonful of sugar, and 2 of onion juice; turn in a little hot water if it is too thick. Boil one minute, then pour part over the fish and the rest into the gravy-boat. Both bluefish and muskalonge are good treated in the same way. Boiled Black Bass with Cream Gravy After washing the bass well sew it up in a closely fitted pieice of cheesecloth. Place in a pot with enough water to cover it, add a little salt, a gill of vinegar, an onion, 8 whole peppers, and a blade of mace. Bring slowly to a boil, and then boil steadily, allowing twelve minutes to each pound of fish. When done remove the cloth, turn the fish on to a hot platter. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve with the following cream gravy : A tablespoonful each of butter and flour 'cooked until they blend, then a cupful of the 454 soups, CHOWDERS, AND FISH strained boiled bass water stirred in, until it all becomes smootli and thick. Season to taste with celery salt and pepper, and stir in a giU of cream. ' As soon as it becomes very hot, remove from the fire. Baked Bass with Shrimp Sauce Clean and wipe the fish well and wash in- side and out with salad-oil and vinegar. Set on ice for an hour. Cut half a pound of rind- less salt pork into very thin slices ; lay half on the bottom of the bake-pan, put the fish on them, and then spread the rest of the pork on top of the fish. Pour a little hot water in the pan, cover, and bake for an hour. Baste two or three times with butter and water. Turn out on a hot dish, and set where it will keep hot while you make the gravy. Shrimp Sauce for Baked Bass Make a roux of a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of browned flour ; stir this into the gravy left in the pan. Add 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling water, the juice of half a lemon, cayenne to taste, and half a can of finely chopped shrimps. Boil for a moment, pour some upon the fish, turn the rest into the gravy-boat. Steamed Red Snapper Clean, wash, and dry a 4-pound fish. Slice some tomatoes and place on the bottom of your' nSH 455 steamer ■with a minced onion. Place the fish on top of these, and steam slowly for an hour or more. After the fish has steamed about thirty min- utes, turn it carefully over. Serve with oyster sauce or with sauce tar- tare. Boiled Red Snapper After cleaniiig and washing a red snapper, wipe it dry and sew up in a coarse mosquitu netting. Put it into a vessel with enough boii- ing water to cover it well, drop a pinch of salt in the water, and flavor with lemon juice. After the water comes to a boil turn the heat almost off, and let it simmer for half an hour. Take from the water carefully, drain, and unwrap; then turn out on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley, or serve with tomato sauce. Baked Red Snapper Draw, clean, and then wipe a 5-pound red snapper. Ivlarifiate it inside and out with salad- oil and lemon. Make a stuffing of 1 well-beaten egg, 1 cupful of drained and chopped oysters, and half a cupful of powdered crackers. Add a table- spoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of onion juice, a teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, Ys teaspoonful of paprika} 456 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH moisten with cream and the oyster liquor until it is quite moist. After the fish is filled with the dressing sew the edges together. Put a layer of minced fat pork, together with a few slices of tomato and onion, on the grating of the roaster. Place the fish on this, and dredge the top with flour and salt, and place more minced pork on the top. Add a cupful of hot water and bake for about an hour in a hot oven, basting often. Serve with HoUandaise sauce. Broiled Bloaters Scrape and clean the bloaters well, then wipe dry with a towel. Split from head to tail and lay them flat upon a buttered gridiron. Broil for about six minutes, turning so as to cook on both sides. When they are done, place them on a hot platter with a little butter over them, and serve at once. Sardine Fritters (German) Cut slices of bread into equal-sized shapes not more than ^ inch thick, and enough of them to form a ring around the edge of a small dish. Beat 2 or 3 eggs and mix them with rather more than their measure of milk. Soak the bread slices in this, and fry them in butter a delicate pale brown. Lay the slices around the edge of your dish, letting one slice rest on the edge of FISH 457 the other. Lay poached eggs in the middle of the dish, and put on them the following sauce, which must be thick enough to spread: Mince the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs quite small. Chop fine some parsley, a little sprig of tarra- gon, and some pimpernel orburnet. Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, put in the minced herbs, and stir them a few minutes to soften; then add salt, pepper, and the minced eggS; with a des- sertspoonful of gravy, the same of lemon juice or vinegar, a spoonful of capers, a little oil and mustard, and, if required, a few crumbs to thicken. Stir ^11 together. Put a small tuft on each poached egg, and spread the rest on the wreath of sippets. Take about a dozen of sar- dines, bone them, and mince them small with a piece of butter and a little payenne. Divide and spread this on the sippets; place th^m tp warm for a minute in the oven, and serve. Sheep's Head a la Creole Into a stewpan put a chopped onion, and after removing the seed, a finely chopped green pepper.. Brown for five minutes in a gill of oil ; adding then a tomato, cut up, 4 mushrooms sliced, a stalk of parsley, 1 of celery, a bay leaf, and a sprig of thyme, some cloves, and a little garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and moisten with sauce Espagnole. Cut a 6-pound 3° 458 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH — . ■■■ " U ■ fish into, say, 6 slices ; lay into the stewpan flat, and cook one hour over a very slow fire. When ready sprinkle chopped parsley over the whole. K desired, the fish may be left whole instead. Marinaded Herrings A German Recipe Put some white salted herrings into cold milk to soak for a couple of hours. Split thero open, take out the bones, cut each half-herring into 3 pieces, and divide the roes lengthwise. Put all in layers into a deep jar, and between each layer place a sprinkling of finely minced shallot, pounded cloves, and white pepper, with here and there a piece of bay leaf and a slice of fresh lemon with half the rind taken off. Place the roe with the herring, and the season- ing over the top layer, and cover the whole well with vinegar. Pour 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil over the vinegar, and leave it until required. The pieces of herring should be drained when wanted, and served either with cheese or as a relish for salads, breakfast, luncheon, etc. They may be used in a couple of days, but will keep good for some time. Crayfish in Jelly Crayfish are something like lobsters, but smaller, and the flesh more delicate; indeed, they are more useful and delicious than any FISH 459 other shellfish, and if' every housekeeper were to enquire for them two or three times at the Bshdealer's they would soon become plentiful. There are several kinds; those are considered the best which are reddish under the claws. To serve them in jelly, take a pint of fish for rather less than a pint of savory or aspic jelly. Put a little jelly at the bottom of a mould ; when it is cold, lay the crayfish upon it, and repeat this until the materials are finished, but care must be taken to let the jelly stiffen each time, or all will sink to the bottom, and also to put the :Ssh in with the i)ack downwards, or they will be wrong side up when turned out. Grarnish with parsley. This is a pretty dish. Time, thirty-six hours or more. Sufficient for a quart mould. Filleted Sole (a I'ltalienne) Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way, and divide each fillet into halves by cutting it across. Season the pieces with pepper and salt, and rub them over with cut lemon. Eub 2 ounces of butter into 8 ounces of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, and make a stiff paste by mixing with the flour the yolk of an egg which has been beaten up with the eighth of a pint of cold water. EoU this paste out very thin, and cut it into pieces of a size and shape that will en- 460 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH tirely cover the filleted fisli. Wrap each piece 01 fish in the paste, press the edges closely, and fry the fillets in hot fat over a slow fire till they are brightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a dish in a circle, with one fillet overlapping the other. Pour cold tartare sauce into the centre, and serve. Time to fry the fillets, about fifteen minutes. SuflBcient for four or five persons. Anchovies Anchovies are highly esteemed little seafish, obtained principally from the Mediterranean; j3ome small schools are found along the coast of Great Britain. The fish are attracted to the boats at night by means of lights, and are caught in nets. After the heads have been cut off and the bodies cleaned, they are put in brine and packed in barrels; for the market they are afterward put into bottles. The pickle of the best fish is a clear pink and without sedi- ment; the cheaper sorts are cloudy, and red only on being stirred, with a thick red sediment. The scales are removed from Dutch anchovies ; French anchovies are of larger size; both varieties are pale in color. Anchovies should be carefully cleaned, trimmed, and boned, then soak for fwo hours in cold water ; dry with a cloth, and wi th a silver or plated knife divide the backs. FISH 46J To serve, lay the halves on a dish, garnish with the white of a hard-hoiled egg, chopped fine, and pour over salad-oil. Boiled Haddock with Ess Sauce Shred 2 ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it 4 ounces of finely grated bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of thyme, and a shallot, finely minced; add a little pepper and salt, and a grate or two of nutmeg, and work all together with a raw egg. Fill the haddock with this stuffing, sew it up with strong thread, truss it in the shape of the letter S, and boil it in salt and water. When done, take it up, drain, and serve garnished with parsley. Boil 2 eggs for seven minutes. When cold, powder the yolks, and mix them with half a pint of good white sauce. Add the whites, cut up into small dice, boil up once, and serve in a tureen. Time to boil a good-sized haddock, half an hour. A haddock weighing two pounds is sufficient for three or four persons. Dressed Whitebait Take the whitebait out of the water with the fingers, drain them, and throw them into a cloth upon which flour has been strewn. Shake them in the cloth to make the fiour adhere to them, then toss them in a large wide sieve to free 462 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH them from the superfluous flour. If the fish stick together, separate them, but they will not do this if they are fresh. Have ready plenty of hot beef-fat (this is much better than lard, which is usually recommended), put the whitebait, a few at a time, into a wire bas- ket, plunge in the hot fat, and leave them for a minute or two. At the end of that time shake them to keep them from sticking together, and when they are slightly crisp without being browned they are done enough. Drain them from the fat while they are still in the basket, sprinkle a little salt upon them, pile them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve very hot. Send quarters of lemon and brown bread and butter to table with them. Time to fry the whitebait, a few minutes. Pike Baked in Sour Cream (German) Clean a pike weighing 3 or 4 pounds, or, if preferred, take part of a larger fish and cut into slices free from skin and bone. Mince 2 small onions very finely, and break up 2 bay leaves into little pieces. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and lay in it the slices of fish, with the onion and the bay leaves distributed amongst them. Season with salt and cayenne, and pour half a pint of sour cream over the fish. Bake in a moderate oven, and when three-fourths FISH 463 done strew finely grated bread crumbs thickly- over it and return it to the oven to color. Lift the slices carefully into a hot dish, and make a gravy by mixing a little stock or water, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice, with the cream, etc., in the dish. Mix thoroughly. Pour the gravy round the fish, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Whiting aux Fines Herbes (English) Clean and skin the fish well and fasten it with its tail in its mouth. Place it on a dish, season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over it a tea- spoonful of mixed sweet herbs in powder. Lay little pieces of butter here and there thickly upon it, cover with another dish, and bake in a moderately heated oven until done enough. Turn it once or twice that it may be equally cooked, and serve with a sauce poured over it. Time to bake the fish, twenty or thirty min- utes. One fish for each person. Broiled Brook Trout Split down the back and clean the trout. Brush over with olive oil or melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and broil over hot coals. Or sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in olive oil or butter, then in cornmeal, and saute in oil or drippings. Garnish with slices of lemon 464 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH and parsley or cress, and serve with, patsley sauce poured around them. Fried Perch Wash, scale, and clean the fish carefully, wipe them dry, and flour them lightly over ; then rub off the flour, dip them into beaten egg, aud afterwards into finely grated bread crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot fat, until they are nicely browned. Drain them for a few minutes on an inverted sieve, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Shrimp sauce, a.nchovy sauce, or plain white sauce are fine with perch. Time to fry varies with size. Fried Catfish Clean, wipe dry, and cut the fish in squares two or three inches across and about an inch thick. Beat 2 eggs very light, season with salt and pepper and a spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Dip the fish in seasoned egg, then roll in cracker crumbs or cornmeal, and fry in one- half each lard and beef drippings until well browned. Grarnish with sliced lemon and pars- ley or celery tops. Baked Pickerel Clean and wash a large fine pickerel. Lay it on the grating of your baking-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, butter well, and dredge with flour. FISH 465 Place in a hot oven, and wlien the flour begins to brown, baste with butter, water, and lemon juice. Allow twelve minutes to each pound of fish. Serve with oyster sauce. Boned Baked Pickerel Remove the backbone and all the other bones which you can extract without tearing the fish too much. Lay in olive oil and lemon juice for an hour. Place very thin slices of salt pork on the grating of the bakepan, lay the fish, skin side downward, on top of the salt pork, and wash with melted. butter. Cover the pan, bake forty minutes, basting it once. Serve with Hol- landaise sauce. Baked Carp Have the fish opened at the gills and the in- testines drawn out through the opening. Wash the flesh with vinegar and let it stand for fifteen minutes. Fill the fish with.a bre^d stuffing, and sew the head down firmly. Brush the fish all over with an egg, cover it thickly with bread crumbs and a few lumps of butter. Put 2 chopped onions and a bunch of parsley in the pan, and a cup of water mixed with 1 teaspoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven, basting 466 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH occasionally. When tlie fish is done, place it on a heated platter and garnish with slices of lemon. Add enough water to the gravy in the pan to make a half pint. Thicken with a table- spoonful of flour rubbed into 1 of butter. Cook for a moment, strain, add the juice of a lemon, and pepper and salt to taste. Serve in a gravy- boat. Sturgeon , 2 pounds of sturgeon; 1 pint of milk; 1 tea- spoonful of salt; 1 tablespoonful of flour; 1 tablespoonful of butter; 1 saltspoonful of pep- per. Cut the fish iato small squares, put them in a stewing-pan with 2 quarts of boiling water; simmer for fifteen minutes, drain the water off. Add the butter, salt, and pepper. Moisten the flour with a little of the milk; add the rest and pour over the sturgeon, then let it come to a boil and serve. Sturgeon may be baked, broiled, or panned, but it always must be parboiled first. How to Dress Terrapin Terrapin, like lobster, should be alive. First wash it iu a large pan of water, and drop it, head downward, into a kettle containing plenty of rapidly boiling water. Boil five or ten miu- utes; take it out and, with a damp cloth, rub off the white skin from the head and feet. Put FISH 467 it again over the fire and cover with, freshly boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt to each quart. Boil slowly until tender and the shells begin to fall away from the sides ; it will some- times take not more than twenty minutes, and it often takes forty or forty-five minutes. When the shells can be separated take the terrapin from the water, let it cool, then cut off the nails, break the shell on the flat side, and remove the meat. Take out the insides, care- fully separate the liver from the gall-bag, and put it aside, throwing away the gall, the inside muscle and tail, the head, entrails, and bladder. Divide the legs at the joints, and cut into small pieces. Cut the liver into small pieces and put this, with the eggs and meat, in a sauce- pan. This is all of the terrapin that is used. Pour over it boiUng water enough to nearly cover, add salt and a little cayenne, and cook ten minutes. It is then ready to serve with sauces, or for soups, etc. If the terrapin has no eggs, egg balls may be made and substituted. Stewed Terrapin Drop into boiling water and cook until tlie heads and feet can be removed. Not quite an hour should be sufl&cient for this. When they get cold, remove the shells, and very carefully 468 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH extract the heart and entrails, being careful not to break the gall-bag. Cut the head, tail, and feet off, and cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a saucepan with enough water to cover, and simmer fifteen minutes. Powder the yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs and work in 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. lu another vessel heat a cupful of cream with a pinch of soda, and work slowly into the egg and butter. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, and mix slowly with the hot terrapin. Cook one minute, add a glass of sherry, and pour out. When done, put the fish on a platter, and pour half the fish stock over it; the remainder may be put in a sauce-boat. This may be served with any fish sauce preferred. Fricasseed Snapping Turtle Clean the turtle by throwing hipa into boiling water. Cut into small dice, sprinkle with pep- per, salt, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, onion juice, and a dash of kitchen bouquet. Put into a tightly covered saucepan with enough water to cover, and simmer gently for thirty minutes. Then add a tablespoonful of browned flour rubbed into a tablespoonful of butter. When nicely blended togetheradd a glass of sherry and the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Let all come to a boil, then remove from the fire, and turn out into a deep dish. nSH 469 Lobster & la Newburg Remove a boiled lobster from the sbell and slice the meat about one-half inch thick, or cut into small pieces. Put in chafing-dish with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; add 1 cup cream mixed smooth with 1 teaspoonful flour or the yolk of 3 eggs, and stir constantly over a slow fire, but do not boil. Serve in a hot dish. Lobster The whole of the lobster is good except the stomach, gills, and intestines. If one wants to use fresh lobster and does not understand how to open and separate one, a good way is to go to one's marketman and get instructions. The shell may be so broken that it can be used for serving the lobster meat. Serving plain is the simplest, and some prefer it with only salt, pepper, and vinegar or lemon juice as a dressing, with, perhaps, Worcestershire and a little oil. Long cooking toughens the lobster, therefore, in all ways of preparing it, cook only until the meat is thoroughly heated. Lobster Stewed in Cream Cut the lobster in small pieces. Put in a saucepan half a cup of cream (or miik with a 470 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FBH teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in butter added). Let this boil up. Season with salt and pepper, add a tablespoonful of butter, put in the lobster, and bring to a boil. Serve very hot, with toasted butter-thin crackers. Creamed Lobster on Toast Make a rich cream sauce well seasoned with cayenne. Dice the lobster, squeeze a little lemon juice over, mix, and let it stand a few minutes. Add it to the hot sauce, let it simmer, not boil, five minutes, and serve on a hot platter on rounds of buttered toast. To a pint of diced lobster allow a pint of sauce. Devilled Lobster Mince the lobster meat, mix with sufficient cream sauce to moisten, season with salt, cayenne, onion juice, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and a very little minced parsley ; add the yolk of 1 or 2 hard-boiled eggs mashed or minced fine. Serve hot with thin crackers, or cold for sandwiches, canapes, or as a lunch dish on crisp leaves of lettuce. • Boiled Soft-shell Crabs Lift the projecting ' ' wings ' ' of the upper shell and remove the soft fins which lie under the sides of the back shell, and remove the flap or apron on the under shell. Wash and cook FISH 47J quickly before the crabs die. Brush with butter, and sprinkle with salt and cayenne pepper. Broil ten minutes over hot coals, turning twice to broil both sides. Serve upon slices of but- tered toast. Fried Soft-shell Crabs Prepare the crabs as directed above. Sprinkle with' salt and cayenne pepper, roll them in beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs, again in egg and in the crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat. Garnish with watercress and thin slices of lemon. Devilled Crabs Mix 2 cans of crabs with 1 cupful of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, half a cupful of rolled cracker crumbs, a wineglassful of sherry, the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, a little nutmeg, and pepper and salt to taste. Bake in shells, sprinkle with cracker crumbs, and place a small piece of butter on each. Baked Crabs Break the claws off boiled crabs, open shells, and remove the spongy fingers and stomach. Pick the fish out, and cut into small pieces. Mix a little rich gravy with it, or cream, if you have it; add some curry paste and bread 472 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FBH crumbs; salt and pepper to taste. Fill the shells, and bake. Scallops and Eggs 1 pint scallops ; 5 eggs ; 2 tablespoonfuls but- ter; 1 teaspoonful parsley; salt and pepper. Simmer the scallops for ten or fifteen min- utes in slightly salted water. Pour off the water and cover quickly with cold. Pour this off and break the scallops in two. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, put in the scallops, and stir about gently until they begin to color; break in the eggs, shake in salt and pepper, and stir all briskly until the eggs are cooked. Have ready a hot platter with squares of buttered toast. Pour the scallops over, sprinkle with a little finely minced parsley, and garnish the edge of the platter with a few sprigs of parsley, and serve at once. Shrimps Shrimps are similar to lobster, and any of the recipes given for lobster may be used for shrimp. If they are to be stewed leave them whole. For scalloping, devilling, etc., cut fine and follow directions for lobster. An agreeable addition to scalloped shrimp is a tomato sauce, made as for fish, spread over each layer of shrimp. Cover all with buttered crumbs, and bake till brown. FISH 473 Shrimp and Mushrooms Cut in small pieces, and saute in butter 1 cup of mushrooms. Heat the same amount of shrimp in i^ cup of cream. "When the cream boils, season with salt and white pepper, a tea- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce; add the sauted mushrooms. Mix well, and serve hot. Frogs' Legs The hind-legs only are used for cooking. Remove the skin, and wipe the bone end, or, if bought already skinned, wash off in cold water, and wipe with a towel. They may be stewed, fried, or broiled, and are most tender and de- licious. Fried Dip the legs in seasoned crumbs, then in egg, and in crumbs again ; put them in a f rying- basket, and fry in hot fat two or three minutes. Serve on a hot platter with a mound of green peas, boiled rice, or macaroni baked in a mould and turned out in the centre of the platter. OYSTERS AND SHELLFISH Oysters on the Half-Shell Wash off the shells of as many Blue Points as are needed, open them, and loosen the oysters from the under shell, removing the upper shell. Serve on oyster plates, or on, shallow soup- 31 474 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH plates, filled with cracked or shaved ice. Cut lemons in quarters, and serve on each plate with the oysters. Serve with them salt, pep- per, Worcestershire, Tabasco,, or horseradish sauce. Stewed Oysters Drain a quart of fine oysters, and carefully remove all bits of shells. Strain the liquor, and put it in a saucepan. Bring it to a boil, and skim. Add a pint of hot milk, a tablespoon- ful of butter, and when at the boiling point add the oysters, a little pepper, and more salt if necessary. Cook only until the oysters begin to curl. The fire should be hot enough to cook them quickly, but care must be taken that they do not scorch after the milk is added. Serve small, crisp crackers and pickled gherkins as an accompaniment. Creamed Oysters Drain the liquor thoroughly from a quart of fine oysters. Strain and heat the liquor in a saucepan, skimming off all the scum that rises as it comes to a boil. Put the oysters in the liquor with a piece of butter the size of a wal- nut, and when thoroughly hot, add a pint of rich, hot cream. Cook until the oysters curl; add salt and pepper, and serve at once. A des- sertspoonful of flour, worked smooth in a little FISH 475 of the cold cream, may be added to the cream while it is heating in a double boiler. Serve with squares of hot buttered toast, or serve poured over slices of buttered toast. Broiled Oysters, in the Sliell (or on tlie Half- Shell) •Wash off the outside of the shells and dry them. Open and remove the upper shell, lay them on a broiler and broil over a clear, hot fire, or under a gas flame. As soon as done put small bits of butter on each one, dust with a little salt and pepper, and serve in the shells with quarters of lemon. To Broil without Opening Wash the shells, lay them on a broiler, and put them directly on a bed of hot coals. As soon as the shells pop open they are done. Serve melted butter and lemon juice with them. Oyster Cocktail Select fine oysters of uniform size. Have them thoroughly chilled, having first taken care that they are free from bits of shell. Pour over them a dressing made of 1 tablespoonful each tomato catsup, lemon juice, Worcester- shire sauce, and grated horseradish (or horse- radish vinegar). Add a few drops of Tabasco sauce, a little salt, a dash of cayenne. Let the oysters stand in this mixture until very cold, 476 SOUPS, CHOmSBRS, AND FISH and serve in small, shallow glasses, or get fancy shells from a caterer to serve in, . Another way is to chop the oysters slightly, in which case they need not be as large or of uniform size. Mix with the dressing and serve in cocktail glasses, or fancy baskets of grape- fruit shells, tomato cups, or any other way that fancy dictates. Broiled Oysters on Toast Select large fine oysters. Strain off the liquor and dry on a napkin. Butter the broiler and lay the oysters on it. Dust them with salt and pepper, and broil over a hot fire, turning the broiler so that both sides of the oyster shall be cooked. Have ready on a hot platter squares or rounds of buttered toast; place one or two oysters on each piece, put a bit of butter on top, squeeze a few drops, of lemon juice over, and serve at once, garnished with cress. The cooking and serving must be done quickly, with no loss of time for cooling. Fried Oysters Drain, pick them over, dust with salt and pepper, roll in cracker crumbs, then in egg, in cracker crumbs again, and saute in hot butter until both sides are a golden brown. Or fry in deep, hot fat after preparing as above. FISH 477 Old Virginia Fried Oysters Mate a batter of 4 tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, 1 tablespoonful of olive oil or melted but- ter, 2 well-beaten whites of eggs, % teaspoonful salt, and warm water enough to make a batter that will drop easily. Sprinkle the oysters lightly with salt and white pepper or paprika. Dip in the batter, and fry to a golden brown. Drain, and serve on a hot pld,tter with a napkin under them, and pass slices of lemon with them. Oysters and Mushrooms A solid pint or 1 dozen medium-sized oysters ; 1 cup mushrooms cut in rather small pieces ; 2 tablespoonfuls butter ; a little salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg; half a glassful port wine or madeira. Saute the mushrooms in the butter. Boil and skim the liquor from the oysters, put in the oysters with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook until they are nearly done. Add the sauted mushrooms and cook for a few minutes longer, then add the wine ; let all get thoroughly hot, and serve at once. The wine may be omitted and a tablespoonful of lemon juice added. For a variety these may be served in cups of rolls or pastry. Take rolls that are baked in round or long oval shape, cut off the bottom 478 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND HSH crust, scoop out tlie inside, brush, the sides with butter, and crisp them in the oven. FUl these with the oysters and mushrooms. Serve on a hot platter with the sauce poured over them. Two tablespoonfuls of hot cream may be added to the sauce, instead of wine. Or make shells of good pastry, baked in little patty-pajQS. These may be made the day be- forehand and put in the oven for a few minutes to get hot, while the oysters are being prepared. A good lunch dish. Scalloped Oysters 1 pint solid oysters ; 1 large cupful bread or cracker crumbs ; Va cup butter ; 1 cup milk ; salt and pepper. Drain and carefully pick over the oysters to free them from any bits of shell. Mix the crumbs with the melted butter. (Bread crumbs are preferable to cracker, being less solid when baked.) Scald and skiin the oyster liquor, and add the hot milk. Into a well-buttered baking-dish put a thin layer of the buttered crumbs, next a layer of oysters; season with salt and pepper, cover with a layer of crumbs, and pour over some of the hot oyster liquor and milk. Put in another layer of oysters and seasoning, then cover with. the remaining crumbs, having the top layer of FISH 479 crumbs rather thicker than the other. Add the rest of the hot liquor, dot the top with bits of butter, and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. A very little Worcestershire sauce or lemon juice may be added to the seasoning if liked. Oysters "Roast" in Their Own Liquor Put the oysters in a saucepan and bring to a quick boil. As soon as they get plump they are cooked enough for most connoisseurs, but some like them cooked until the gills are well curled or crimped. As soon. as done season with salt, pepper, butter, and a squeeze of lemon juice. This is a " plain roast." Served on buttered toast, with the liquor poured over, it is a " fancy roast." Clam Fritters Beat 2 eggs light, sift in i/^ cupful of flour, add % cupful of milk; thus forming a batter. Chop up 12 good-sized clams in chopping-bowl. Add 1 teaspoonful minced parsley, % tea- spoonful salt, a da^h of pepper ; add to the bat- ter. If not of sufficient consistency to drop into hot fat, add a little more flour. Fry crisp, either in deep fat, or saute in frying-pan. Drain, and serve. Baked Soft Clams Place 1 dozen large soft clams in baking- pan, so that the juices will be retained in the 480 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND HSH lower shell. Bake until clam opens, remove the upper shell carefully, and place on each clam a slice of crisp bacon. Serve in lower shell. Jambalaya East Indian Recipe Fry ham, as for gumbo, with garlic, onion, and pepper; add 3 cupfuls of tomatoes as be- fore, and strain. Have 1 cupful of rice, pre- viously soaked in warm water. Put the rice into the hot tomato, and add herbs to taste. Keep the pot covered, and boil slowly until the rice is well cooked. When the rice is ready to ' serve, oysters may be lightly pressed into the rice. Put into a baking-dish, and set into the oven until the oysters curl. Clams or shrimps may be used instead of .oysters. Pigs in Blankets Season the desired nuinber of large oysters with salt and pepper. "Wrap each in a slice pf best bacon and/fasten with wooden toothpicks. Fry until bacon is crisp. Serve on toast gar^ nished with parsley. Snails, Edible The edible snail of the south of Europe is said to have been introduced into England from the Continent in the seventeenth century. This, FISH 48J however, is very doubtful. It has a shell about two inches in diameter, and two inches in height, whitish or pale tawny, with four dark bands, often not very distinct. By the ancient Eomans it was much esteemed as an article of food. They fattened their snails in enclosures made for the purpose, and fed them daintily on meal and boiled wine. It is still in much esteem for the table in parts of Europe,- and may be had during several weeks of the year in the United States, being imported, as the season is short. During this time they may be had at leading hotels, but for only a week or two. The common garden snail would prob- ably be as good eating, though not so large, and if cultivated as in Europe. (No. 2) Take fine Bourgogne snails ; disgorge them well by salt for two or three days, wash several times in cold water, strain, and put them to stew, covering with water; add a bouquet, cloves and whole pepper tied in a cloth, and enough salt; cook them until they fall from their shells, and empty, and clip the tails; next clean shells ■ thoroughly. Mix butter, shallots, parsley, and chervil together, chopping very fine ; put it in bowl with equal quantity of fresh bread crumbs, and a small glass of white wine. 482 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Season this with salt and pepper, and knead thoroughly. Put a little of this mixture into each shell, put back the snails, and place an- other layer of the mixture on top. Put into the oven until brown, not over four minutes, and serve on folded napkin. SAUCES FOR FISH AND MEATS The making of perfect sauces and serving them with the proper fish, game, meat, or des- sert is one of the fine arts. A dish may be well, even perfectly, cooked, and if not spoiled, at least be very much depreciated by the lack of a well-seasoned and perfectly blended sauce, while an otherwise flat or flavorless article of food may be made " fit for the gods " by the addition of a sauce that is a delight to the palate. Brown sauces have for a basis brown stock and browned butter and flour, and may be col- ored to just the desired shade by the addition of caramel or roux. White sauces are made with white stock, or a cream sauce, or with plain drawn butter, with the addition of whatever ingredients are ap- propriate to the food with which the sauce is to be served. So many of the sauces need to be kept hot, but not boiling, while some of the ingredients are prepared to be added last, that it is a good plan to keep one of the . small-sized double boilers for this purpose. 483 484 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH SAUCES FOR FISH Court-Bouillon (for Boiling Fish) In cooking some of the coarser kinds of fish, or those that are not especially delicate in flavor, they are improved by boiling in what the French - call a ' ' court-bouillon, ' ' made with highly flavored vegetables and sweet herbs, combined with lemon juice or wine, and highly spiced. Fish cooked in this preparation is deliciously flavored. Wine is not necessary, and is only used where there is an abundance for cooking purposes. Place in the bottom of the fish-kettle a thick layer of sliced carrots and onions, with a sliced lemon, parsley, thyme, a bay leaf, a few whole peppers, and 3 or 4 whole cloves. Lay the fish on the top of this and cover with one-half cold water and one-half white wine, or lemon juice or vinegar. Put the kettle over the fire and let it heat rather slowly. As soon as it boils, the fish should be sufficiently cooked. Court-bouillon may be prepared the day be- forehand, as' the fish must always be put into it while cold. If brought to a boil and allowed to cool, the flavor 'of the herbs will be stronger than if made fresh. It may also be set aside SAUCES 485 and kept for use again, but it must be reheated every few days. Tartare Sauce for Broiled Fish (Mrs. Lincoln) 1 tablespoonful vinegar ; 1 teaspoonful lemon .iuice; 1 saltspoonful salt; Vg cupful butter; 1 tablespoonful Worcestershire sauce. Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worces- tershire sauce in a small bowl, and heat over hot water. Brown the butter in an omelet pan, and strain into the other mixture. To be served hot. Tomato Sauce % cupful tomato pulp, strained smooth; % cupful finely chopped capers, gherkins, olives, and onion; 1 teaspoonful made mustard; 1 tablespoonful vinegar; 1 teaspoonful sugar; salt to taste; a dash of cayenne. Mix all together, bring to boiling point, stir- ring briskly while it is heating, and serve very hot ; poured over or around the fish. Lobster Sauce Make a Hollandaise as for meat and a cupful of finely chopped lobster meat, rub the coral to a paste with a tablespoonful of melted butter, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, one or two drops of Tabasco sauce, and a half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Mix thoroughly with the Hollandaise while hot. 486 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Hollandaise Sauce Make a brown Hollandaise sanee, the same as for meat or vegetables; add chopped onion or a few drops of onion juice, chopped parsley, olives, gherkins, or hot mixed pickles to taste. Piquant Sauce 1 cupful good clear stock; I/2 tablespoonful minced onion or shallots ; 2 tablespoonfuls but- ter: 1 tablespoonful flour; 1/2 teaspoonful sugar; % teaspoonful Worcestershire sauce; 1 tablespoonful chopped capers; 1 tablespoon- ful cucumber pickles, chopped or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls tarragon or wine vinegar; a dash of cayenne ; i/^ teaspoonful salt. Heat the butter in a pan and add the flour. Stir until very smooth, and let it cook until brown. Gradually add the stock, salt and pep- per, and let it come to a boil, and simmer ten minutes. Put the vinegar, onion, and sugar in a pan over a hot fire, and simmer five minutes. Add this and pickles, capers, and Worcestershire sauce to the hot stock ; then let it boil up, and serve it very hot with either fish, meat, or game. This is one of the sauces that may have ex- tract of beef substituted for the stock, as it (Should be clear. Use the extract in the pro- SAUCES 487 portion of % teaspoonful of extract dissolved in 1 cupful-boiling water. Serve with fried or broiled fish, or roast or boiled meats. A Simple Sauce for Steamed or Boiled Fish To 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter add 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped. Season with a tablespoonful of very finely minced parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Have it very hot and well mixed, and pour over the fish. India Sauce 1 cupful white sauce; 1 tablespoonful curry powder; 2 tablespoonfuls finely chopped pickles ; 1 tablespoonful tarragon vinegar or the vinegar from the pickles. Let all simmer together for five minutes or until thoroughly heated and blended. Sauce Allemande 1 pint white stock ; 6 mushrooms ; yolks of 3 eggs; juice of % a lemon, and a little strip of the rind; 1 saltspoonful salt; 1 teaspoonful flour ; 1 teaspoonful minced parsley ; 1 spoonful butter. Put the stock into a saucepan with the mush- rooms cut small, and the salt, lemon-peel, and parsley. Let it come to a boil and simmer 8ilowly for an hour. Thicken with the flour, 488 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH boil a few minutes, and strain. Add tlie well- beaten yolks of the eggs, put it back on the fire, a»d stir constantly until very hot. It must not boil again after the eggs are added, or it will be spoiled. Take frpm the fire and add the but- ter and lemon juice, stirring until well blended. Serve with either fish, meat, or vegetables- Sauce Supreme 1 cupful white stock (made with chicken and veal) ; 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, cress, and tarragon leaves, equal parts ; 1 table- spoonful of lemon juice; white roux sufficient to thicken. Put the stock in a saucepan and add the roux, stirring until it is thick. Put the herbs into boiling water, let them stand two or three min- utes, drain on a towel, and mince them fine. Stir them into the stock ; add a little white pep- per and salt if needed. When very hot and ready to serve, add the strained lemon juice. Pour over fish or meat. Lobster Sauce 1/2 cupful finely minced lobster meat and the coral; 1 cupful drawn butter sauce; % table- spoonful butter ; juice of half a lemon ; a dash of paprika. Eub the coral of the lobster to a paste with the butter, add the minced lobster, lemon juice, SAUCES 489 and paprika. Mix with the hot drawn butter sauce. Let it boil up, and serve with the fish. Sardine Sauce Mash smooth 5 large sardines that have been skinned and, boned, and add to II/2 cupfuls of mayonnaise; serve with cold fish. Tomato Tartare To 1% cupfuls tartare sauce add 3 table- spoonfuls of tomato catsup, or cooked tomato pulp. Serve cold. Shrimp Take 1 pint white sauce and add to it 1 cupful of chopped shrimp, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, a dash of paprika, and a drop or two of Ta- basco. Cream To % cupful of mayonnaise add 1 tablespoon- ful vinegar and 1 teaBpooniul English inustard, 2 tablespoonfule fresh grated horseradish, a pinch of salt, and a dash of cayenne. Add to this, stirring continuously, 1 cupful whipped cream. Serve very cold T^th cold fish. Pepper Chop 2 sweet green peppers, removing the seeds; mix together % cupful each of vinegar and sugar, 1 teaspoonful celery seed, and y^ 32 490 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH teaspoonful salt; pour over minced peppers, and serve. Dressing for Baked Fish 1 cupful bread crumbs ; 14 cupful melted but- ter; 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, capers, pickles, and olives; % teaspoonful minced onion; 1 teaspoonful lemon juice or vinegar; salt and pepper and Worcestershire may be added if so desired. Ess Sauce To white sauce add 1 hard-boiled egg, chopped fine,' and salt and pepper to taste. Capers are sometimes added. Shad-Roe Sauce Cook 1 shad-roe in salted water, to which a teaspoonful of vinegar has been added, for twenty minutes. Then cool ; crumb up and add to brown sauce (see Brown Sauce) with 1 tea- spoonful of lemon juice. Cheese Sauce Place in a saucepan the following ingredi- ents, stirring continuously: 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter and 2 of corn starch. After stirring this together over the fire, add 1 cup of grated cheese, i/^ teaspoonful mustard, 14 teaspoonful paprika, a dash of red pepper, 14 SAUCES 491 teaspoonful of salt, and % teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Cook thoroughly, draw to one side ; stir in li/^ eupfuls of milk that have been heated. Then add 1 lightly beaten egg. The sauce must not be allowed tp boil after the addition of the milk and egg. Serve very hot. Cucumber Sauce Cucumber, a plant that seems to be most adaptable to fish, can be treated as follows : Mince 1 cucumber, add to it 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a pinch of salt. Stir this into Hol- landaise sauce (see HoUandaise Sauce), and serve. SAUCES FOR MEAT Drawn Butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour ; 3 tablespoonfuls of cold butter; 1 cupful of water; seasoning. Take V3 of the butter and melt it in a sauce- pan over the fire. As soon as it is melted, add the flour and stir until it bubbles. Care must be taken that it does not brown. The water is then gradually stirred in until the sauce boils. Add pepper and salt to taste. Remove from the fire, and stir in the rest of the butter, which has been broken into small pieces. If neces- sary, strain. Serve while very hot. 492 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Drawn Butter 1 pint hot water ; Vg cupful butter ; 2 table- spoonfuls flour ; % teaspoonful salt ; %, salt- spoonful white pepper. Proceed as above. Vinaigrette Sauce To % cupful of plain or tarragon vinegar add 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, i/4 teaspoonful paprika, a dash of cayenne and of white pepper. Mince 1 tablespoonfuleach of pickle^, chives, parsley, green pepper; stir into the vinegar, then add slowly % cupful of olive oil. Velout6 To 1 cupful of white stock add % cupful of cream, and heat. Cook 3 tablespoonfuls of flour in 3 table- spoonfuls of butter; add the stock slowly, season with % teaspoonful salt, a little grated nutmeg, a dagh of cayenne, a sprig of parsley — if mushrooms are on hand, add a few, to give flavor. Simmer one hour, strain, and serve. Velout^ with Claret Make as for veloute sauce, only substituting claret instead of cream, and the lightly beaten yolks of 2 eggs to make the sauce creamy. Horseradish Sauce (Hot) To 1 cupful of brown sauce add 2 tablespoon- fuls of grated horseradish that has stood for SAUCES 493 an hour in 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of cracker crumbs or fine bread crumbs, 1 tea- spoonful of made mustard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and a half saltspoonful of pepper. Mix and heat in a double boiler. Just before serving beat in half a cup of whipped or plain cream. Double the amount of horseradish if a very sharp sauce is wanted. Serve with beef. White Sauce 1 cupful white stock; % cupful cream; 2 tablespoonfuls butter; 2 tablespoonfuls flour; % saltspoonful salt ; a dash of white pepper. Cook the flour and butter together until very smooth and bubbling, but taking care that it does not become colored. Have the stock and cream hot, and add it, a little at a time, to the bitter and flour. Beat until smooth, and let it come to a boil. Strain, and serve. Brown Sauce 1 cupful stock; salt and pepper; 2 table- spoonfuls butter ; 2 tablespoonfuls flour. Cook the flour and butter together until brown, stirring briskly; then add the stock, a spoonful at a time, stirring or beating con- stantly to prevent its lumping. As soon as it has boiled strain, and serve with meat or vege- tables. Used as a basis, with the addition of 494 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH some ingredients from which the sauce takes its name, this may be the principal part of several meat or fish sauces. If not dark enough, add a little dark roux until it is the desired colon Anchovy Sauce 1 cup broth or stock; 4 anchovies; 1 table- spoonful butter; 1 teaspoonful capers. Wash and dry the anchovies, remove the bones, and cut up fine. Dredge them lightly with flour, and fry them five minutes in the but- ter without browning. Add the broth or stock, let it simmer fifteen minutes; then add the crushed capers, and more salt and pepper, if needed. Serve very hot with roast or boiled beef. Sauce Piquante for Roast Beef To a cup of -brown sauce add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoonful of chopped mustard pickles, and a tablespoonful of chopped capers. Serve hot. Orange Sauce (Game) Boil 1 orange peel cut into strips in 1 cupful of water until tender, add the juice of 2 oranges. Cook together 2 tablespopnfuls of butter and 3 of flour. Add gradually % cupful of white stock seasoned with I/2 tablespoonful of made mustard, 14 tablespoonful salt, a dash of SAUCES 495 cayenne, Vs cupful of red wine, and 4 table- spoonfuls of currant jelly. Boil thoroughly and add the oranges and the liquids ; strain, and serve. Bechamel Sauce For a simple bechamel use % strong white stock and % thick sweet cream. Season with salt and white pepper and a very little nutmeg . or mace. Serve with vegetables. Madeira Sauce To 1 cupful of brown sauce add 1 tablespoon- ful each of minced ham and celery; season with 1/4 teaspoonful each of kitchen bouquet and paprika. Simmer for half an hour, then add % cupful madeira wine. Mustard Brown 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 2 table- spoonfuls of flour, stir smooth ; then add 1 cup of beef stock. Let simmer. To 1 tablespoonful of French or celery mus- tard add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 of sugar, and 1 of made mustard, % teaspoonful of salt, 14 teaspoonful of paprika. Now add the above into the stock, and stir until smooth. Maitre d'Hdtel Butter 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter; 1 table- spoonful chopped parsley; 1 tablespoonful 496 S OUPS> CHOWDERS, AND FISH lemon juice; % teaspoon salt; % saltspoon pepper. Rub the butter to a cream, add the lemon juice, parsley, salt, and pepper; stirring con- stantly until smooth. Serve with broiled fish or beefsteak, spread over the top. Mint Sauce for Young Lamb Take a few sprigs of fresh mint, wash well, and chop fine. A good way to chop mint and parsley fine is to keep a pair of good-sized scis- sors for the purpose. It is easier and quicker than chopping. By gathering the leaves closely with one hand it is easy to clip the leaves in bits. Put the mint in the sauce-boat, add 4 tablespoonfuls of wine vinegar, 1 of sugar, and 4 tablespoonfuls of cold water. It should be made an hour or two before serving. Chestnut Sauce for Turkey or Chicken Mash 1 cupful of boiled chestnuts and stir into 1% cupfuls of hot white stock ; season with 1 teaspoonful of catsup, % teaspoonful salt, 14 teaspoonful paprika, 1 tablespoonful butter. Cook until smooth and of the proper consist- ency. Espagnole Sauce Heat 2 cups veal stock into which have been put 1/2 l^ay leaf, a blade of mace, and a couple of cloves. Cook together 2 tablespoonfuls of SAUCES 497 butter and 3 of flour ; then stir in heated stock. Mince 1 tablespoonful each of ham, onion, cel- ery, carrot, parsley ; season with i/4 teaspoonf ul salt, and % teaspoonful paprika; then add to the stock and simmer gently for one hour; strain, and serve very hot. Chive Sauce To 1 cupful brown sauce add 2 tablespoonfuls of minced chives. Mushroom Sauce To 1 cupful of brown sauce add y^ cupful mushrooms, either canned or fresh, cut into small pieces. Roll the mushrooms in flour an(3 saute in butter. Mix them with the sauce, bring to a boil, and add a tablespoonful of lemon juice or half a wineglass of sherry or port wine. Serve with roast beef or steak. Currant Jelly Sauce To 1 cupful of clear brown sauce add %, cup- ful of currant jelly. Melt the jelly before add- ing it to the sauce, then heat until thoroughly blended. Serve hot with mutton. Olive Sauce To 1 pint of brown sauce add a teaspoonful of minced onions and 12 large olives chopped and cooked in % cup of water ; boil up, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and serve hot. 498 SOUPS, CHOWDERS, AND FISH Champagne Sauce for Ham To % cupful brown sauce add 1 cupful of American champagne or white wine, a tea- spoonful sugar, 3 cloves. Bring to a boil, and strain. Chicken Sauce for Sweetbread Cut into dish. 1 cupful of chicken. Season with % teaspoonful salt and a dash of cayenne, 1 teaspoonful parsley. Place in a saucepan 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour; stir to- gether and cook thoroughly. Add the lightly beaten yolks of 2 eggs to 1 cupful of cream, and stir into the cooked flour a little at a time, stir- I'ing contiauously. When smooth, add the first mixture of chicken, etc. Tomato Sauce % dozen large ripe tomatoes ; %. cupful meat gravy or good stock; 1 blade mace; 2 shallots; 2 cloves; y^ teaspoonful salt; % teaspoonful paprika. Cut the tomatoes in halves and scoop out the seeds. Put them iu a saucepan with the gravy or stock ; add the seasoning, and stew slowly for half an hour or longer. Press through a sieve and return the pulp to the saucepan ; bring to a boil, and serve very hot with cutlets or roast meat. If objectionable, the mace, cloves, or shallots SAUCES 499 may be omitted, or a small minced onion may be stewed with the tomatoes in place of any shallots. Some prefer the flavor of the toma- toes without other seasoning than is given by the gravy, salt, and pepper. When done, the sauce should be of the con- sistency of thick cream. Should it be too thin, boil it dow;n quickly, if too thick, add a little more gravy or stock. Oyster Sauce Make a rich cream or white sauce with the strained and skimmed oyster liquor and half a cup of milk or cream. Simmer the oysters in just water enough to cover until they curl, but do not allow them to toughen. Chop or cut them fine and add to the sauce with a dash of white pepper or paprika, and a little lemon juice. Let all get very hot and serve at once with roast turkey or fish. Port Wine Sauce y2 cupful rich brown stock or brown sauce; 1/2 cupful port wine; 1/2 cupful currant jelly; 1 teaspoonful lemon juice; salt; a dash of cayenne ; 2 or 3 cloves and whole allspice each ; a small stick of cinnamon ; a blade of mace. Heat the stock with the spices long enough to extract their flavor; add the melted currant jelly, wine, and salt and pepper. When all are 500 SOUF3, CHOWDERS, AND FISH thoroughly hot and well blended, skim out the spices and serve with venison or game. Onion Sauce (Called also Soubise Sauce) Cook together until smooth 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour. Stir in slowly 1 cupful of hot stock. Add 2 or 3 onions that have been sliced and cooked in salted water for fifteen minutes. Season with salt and cayenne, and add last % cup of hot cream. Parsley Butter Rub 3 tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream. Beat iu slowly half a tablespoonful of strained lemon juice and a tablespoonful of finely minced parsley; season with white pepper. .Beat until creamy, and put on ice and serve with meats. Or double the amount of lemon juice, and serve hot with boiled or broiled fish. Bernaise Sauce Place on one side of the stove in a saucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon or common vin- egar and 2 of water, and a slice of onion. While this is heating, cream 4 tablespoonfuls of butter and beat very light the yolks of 3 eggs, to which add % teaspoonful of salt and paprika. Remove the onion from the heated vinegar and beat in rapidly the beaten yolks. Stir until of a creamy consistency; then add a SAUCES sot spoonful at a time of the butter, beating all the time, so as to have the sauce very light. Bread Sauce Heat 1 cupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of but- ter, and season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Dry in the oven V3 cup of bread crumbs, taking care to toss them about so as to evenly dry and keep separate. Do. not brown. Bring the milk to a boil, and stir in the bread crumbs. To be served with game or fowl. Caper Sauce for Mutton Boil together 1% cups water, 1 tablespoonful butter, 4 tablespoonfuls capers, and 1 teaspoon- ful vinegar. In separate saucepan place 1 tablespoonful each of butter and flour, a pinch of salt, and a dash of cayenne. Cook thor- oughly, and when boiling stir in a little at a time the mixture from the first saucepan. Roux for Thickening; Sauces (Dark) 1 ounce butter ; 11/^ ounces dried flour ; 2 cups stock. Put the butter in a saucepan and melt slowly ; then add the flour, stirring with a wooden spoon until it is a light brown in color ; it will require about ten minutes. Take it from the fire and let it cool for two or three minutes and stir in the stock. Return to the fire and stir until it 502 SOUPS, CHO\(nDERS, AND FISH boils, and let it simmer until it is sufficiently thick. It should be stirred until very smooth. For white roux use white stock and remove the butter and flour from the fire as soon as perfectly blended, and before it has become colored. DRESSINGS Bread Dressing for Game To % a cupful of fine bread crumbs add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter ; season with yi teaspoonf ul salt, a dasb of cayenne and of paprika. Place in a double boiler a cupful of milk, a couple of slices of onion, a blade of mace, and V% bay leaf; bring to a boil, strain, and return to saucepan. Now mix in tbe bread crumbs. This is served with ^mall game, either as a side-dish or as a garniture. Chestnut Dressing To % cupful of bread crumbs add 2 table- spoonfuls of melted butter and 1 tablespoonful cream. Season with salt, a dash of cayenne, a little grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoonfuls hot ^ater; mix well together. Mash 1 cupful of boiled chestnuts and mix with the other in- gredients. Use for stuffing turkey and chicken. Potato Dressing for Duck Beat light 2 cupfuls mashed potatoes ; add i/4' cup of cream, 1 tablespoonful butter. Season 503 504 SOUPS. CHOWDERS, AND FISH with % teaspoonful each of salt, paprika, onion juice, chopped parsley, a teaspoonful kitchen bouquet. Then stir in the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs; 1/2 cupful 'of chopped nut-meats may be added to the dressing. SIDE OF THE STEER AFTER BEING DRESSED MEATS To Broil a Steak SiELOiN and porterhouse are the choicest cuts, but the top round is juicy, and often very ten- der. A steak should be cut from one inch to one and a half or two inches in thickness, ac- cording to fancy or taste. If there is reason to suppose that the steak is tough, it may be pounded for two minutes with a meat hammer. Wipe clean, trim off the long ends ; they are rarely tender enough to serve as steak, and are best put aside for stewing, for force-meat balls, a breakfast hash, etc., or for soup. Trim off the outer skin and any ends of superfluous fat, and with a sharp knife take out the bone very clean. Some prefer to have the bone of a sir- loin left in, but it is much easier to cook and carve without it, and since the bone scorches easily over the -hot blaze, it is better for the soup if not eooked, besides being easier to cut clean of the meat, which is most tender and juicy near the bone. Eub the gridiron or broUer with a piece of the fat, and broil over clear, hot coals, turning it every ten seconds to sear both sides as quickly 33 505 506 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME as possible and prevent the loss of the juices. Four or five minutes will be sufficient to cook a steak of medium thickness, if liked rare ; double that time, if to be well done. Have a hot platter in readiness, and as soon as done sufficiently place the steak on the dish, cover generously with butter, shake over it salt and pepper, stand it for two minutes in the hot oven, and serve. Pan-Broiled Steak While broiling over coals is supposed to be, par excellence, the method for cooking a steak, very nearly the same result may be obtained by broiling in a hot frying-pan or on a grid- iron, but the pan must be heated to a blue heat before putting in the steak. Lay the steak in the pan without butter or grease of any kind. Let it sear just long enough to prevent the escape of juice, then turn at once and sear the other side. Keep turning it often. The outside being all quickly seared, there will be very little chance for the loss of the juices, and if the pan is as hot as it should be, very little more time, if any, will be required than to cook over hot coals. Serve the same as before. Should there be sufficient juice in the pan for a little g^avy, pour in 2 or 3 spoonfuls MEATS 507 of boiling water ; stir it around to dissolve the coagulated juiqe, add a little salt, and pour around tlie steak, Hamburg Steak Take a thick slice from the top of the round. Have the butcher put in with it a small piece of marrow. Pound the steak enough to loosen the small fibres,, cut iu convenient pieces for put- ting through the grinder, and remove any threads of tough fibre. These will sometimes collect in the teeth of the grinder, and may be easily removed with a fork. Put with the pieces of meat a small piece — ^what would amount to 2 teaspoonfuls — of the marrow and grind through with it, putting in at the last a small piece of stale bread or crust; this will clear all meat from the teeth of the chopper, and the small amount of crumbs will do no harm in the meat. Add to the chopped meat a few drops of onion juice or kitchen bouquet, and pepper, but do not salt it until after it is cooked; it will be less tender and juicy if salted first. Toss it lightly with a silver fork to mix the seasoning in, and with the fork, or two forks, make it into cakes or flattened balls. This is easiest done on a shallow baking-dish (a granite pie-plate is good for the purpose). Do not pack the meat 508 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME closely, or make it into cakes with the hands, but pack it only closely enough with the fork to make the balls hold in shape. Have the pan very hot, as for broiling other steak, rub it with a piece of fat to prevent stick- ing and breaking the balls in turning. As soon as seared on the under side, turn with a spatula and cook the other side. They should be well browned on the outside and rare and juicy within. As soon as done lift with the spatula to a hot platter, make an incision with a knife in the centre of each ball, put a lump of butter in the place, sprinkle with salt, set in a hot oven for two minutes, and serve. Should there be any gravy in the pan, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water, 2 table- spoonfuls of tomato catsup, a little salt, and a dash of paprika ; stir briskly, and pour around the balls. Beefsteak with Mushrooms Before putting the steak on to broil, prepare the mushrooms. If canned, open and turn them out of the can; 1/2 a can will be sufficient for an ordinary-sized steak. Cut the mushrooms in two, and saute them in a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan. Add % cup of bouillon or clear stock and let them simmer for ten min- MEATS 509 utes. Not having the bouillon or stock at hand, use boiling water with half a teaspoonful of beef extract, well-seasoned with salt, paprika, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Broil the steak over a clear fire, dish it on a hot platter, pour the mushrooms and gravy around it, cover, and let it stand in a hot oven not over three minutes, and serve. Beefsteak and Onions A steak from the rump or the top round will answer very well ; by laying it on the meat board and beating it for two minutes with a meat hammer or wooden potato masher, it will be made more tender. Have the cut from ll^ to 11/2 inches in thickness. Put in a frying-pan 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and when it is hot, not brown, lay in the steak and cook ten minutes, not too fast or it will burn the butter and meat. Turn and cook on the other sidei the same length of time, taking care in turning that the meat is not pricked, as the juices must be kept in as much as possible. After it has been turned it may be sprinkled with salt and pepper; there is then little danger of the salt extracting the juice. Before cooking the steak prepare 1 pint of medium-sized onions; boil them rapidly for twenty minutes in slightly salted water. Drain 510 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME them well, and slice in thin, even slices. Dish the steak on a hot platter and set it in the oven to keep hot. Put the sliced onions in the fry- ing-pan and fry in the butter and meat juice until a golden brown; season with pepper and a little salt, and add 2 teaspoonfuls of wine or tarragon vinegar. Stir gently, keeping the onion slices as whole as possible. Pour this around the hot steak, and sprinkle finely minced parsley over all. A good effect, both for the palate and the eye, is obtained by the addition of a half dozen freshly cooked, small young beets. Slice or dice thin, and add to the onion just before serving it, letting them remain long enough to get hot, but not long enough to lose their bright color. Roast Beef In the days of open fires for cooking pur- poses, the roasting of a large joint of meat meant frequent turning on the spit to allow all the outside to come in contact with the intense heat. The nearest approach to this method of roasting, since the advent of improved coal and gas ranges, is to put the meat into an oven hot enough to quickly cook the outside, and so con- fine the juices while the cooking process is com- pleted, which must also be done quickly, leaving the inside juicy and rare. This rich juiciness MEATS 5JJ can better be obtained by using a roasting-rack or trivet than by simply baking with the meat resting on the bottom of the pan. If, however, the latter way is more convenient, have only sufficient water in the pan to prevent burning, not enough to steam the meat. In roasting a sirloin of 6 or 8 pounds, cut off the griBater part of the flank, it will make a stew or soup stock. Wipe the meat, or rinse quickly in cold water, and immediately wipe it dry. Trim off any superfluous pieces of fat, and, if necessary, skewer it. Lay it on the roasting-rack with the skin side up, and dust first with flour, then with salt and pepper. Put a few pieces of fat or 2 spoonfuls of drippings in the bottom of the pan, and put it in the hot oven. When the outside has be- come well seared, baste with the drippings and dredge again with salted and peppered flour. A little of the flour will go into the pan; when this has browned pour in a little boiling water, keeping just suflicient water in the pan to pre- vent the fat and flour from burning. If the oven does not roast evenly enough to cook all sides alike, turn the pan around or turn the meat over. Allow from ten to fifteen minutes to each pound of beef for cooking, in proportion to the degree of rareness liked. If cooked very rare, 512 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME a large roast may be reheated on the second day, by putting it in the pan with a little drip- pings and putting in a moderately hot oven just long enough to become thoroughly heated through, basting and taking care that it does not cook enough to make it dry. WJien the roast is done remove it to a hot platter, and if a gravy is to be made, carefully pour off as much as possible of the clear fat in the pan, add a cupful of boiling water, and stir well to mix in all the browned juice and flour; scrape this into a saucepan, add more water if needed, or some good soup stock, and if the flour in the pan does not thicken it sufficiently, pour 2 spoonfuls of the fat into the baking-pan ; when hot stir in flour to thicken, stirring until smooth and brown; add this to the gravy, stir briskly. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer five minutes. It should be smooth if made carefully, but if not, strain before serv- ing. Roast from the Round The top of the round, if not as tender as the better cuts, is usually juicy, and if well-done meat is preferred, will be very palatabile. A piece not more than three inches thick should be put in the bottom of the roasting-pan, dredged with flour, salt, and pepper, and slices of clear, solid fat or suet laid on top. Not MEATS 513 more than ten minutes to the pound need be al- lowed for cooking, since there is no bone, and it is thin. Carve the same as a thick steak, in thin slices. Rib Roast It is more convenient to have your butcher remove the ribs and roll and tie the roast into a nice shape. This done, wipe it carefully, dredge as for sirloin, and roast in the same way. Stuffed or Farcied Roast Beef The round is good for this. Have a top round two or more inches in thickness. Trim off the skin, dust with salt and pepper. Make a stuffing as follows : 1 cupful bread crumbs ; 1 egg ; salt and pep- per; 1 tablespoonful finely chopped salt pork; 1 tablespoonful melted butter; 1 teaspoonful mixed sweet herbs ; a few drops of onion juice or kitchen bouquet. Moisten the crumbs with hot water, add the sweet herbs and other seasoning, pork and but- ter, mix all together, and add the beaten egg last. Put this on the meat and roll it up in a compact, well-shaped piece. When well se- cured, cut slashes in the top, taking care not to cut through to the stuffing, lay strips of clear fat in th6 gashes, dredge with flour as for a roast, and cook in the same manner. 5J4 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME If any of the stuffing is left over, put it in one corner of tlie pan, and use it in thickening the gravy, adding 14 cupful of tomato pulp or 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. Serve garnished either with potato balls or mounds of mashed potatoes browned in a hot oven, with creamed onions as an accompani- ment. Yorkshire Pudding (to be Eaten with Roast Beef) 1 pint milk; 4 eggs; 1 scant cupful flour; % teaspoonful salt. Beat the egg yolks and whites separately. To the well-beaten yolks add the milk and salt, and gradually add to the flour, beating until smooth ; then beat in the stiffly whipped whites of eggs. The pudding should be made when the meat is within twenty minutes of being done. Raise the meat a couple of inches from the bottom of the pan, if it is roasting without a rack. It can be held in position by ruiming two long wire skewers into each side of the joint and letting the ends rest on the sides of the roasting-pan. Pour the batter under and around the roast, return at once to the oven, and bake twenty-five minutes. Or bake in a separate pan well-greased, and cut in squares to serve. MEATS 5J5 Beef h la Mode Get a thick piece of beef of 4 or 5 pounds from the round or rump. Trim the edges into good shape, wipe, and put it into a deep earthen bowl or jar. Pour over it a cupful of vinegar, in which have been steeped 1 finely chopped onion, 2 tablespoonfuls salt, 1 saltspoonful pep- per, 1 teaspoonful each cloves, allspice, and mustard; a blade or two of mace and a bay leaf. Turn the meat around in this pickle, and leave in it for several hours, turning it over several times. Make several deep incisions and fill them with a dressing of bread crumbs seasoned plentifully with salt, pepper, finely minced onion, or a few drops of onion juice, kitchen bouquet, and sweet herbs. Mix with the beaten yolk of 1 egg a tablespoonful, of butter or drippings, moistened sufficiently with hot water. Tie well with twine or strips of muslin, or skewer the incisions with wooden toothpicks to keep the stuffing in, and dredge it with flour. Mince or slice 2 onions, 1 small carrot, fry them in half beef drippings and half fat salt pork. When brown, put in the meat and brown it on all sides, and pour in enough boiling water to half cover the meat. Tie a tablespoonful of the mixed herbs and a small onion in a piece of jheeseeloth and put in the pan with the meat; 516 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME cover closely, and let it simmer three or four hours. When tender take up on a hot platter, take off the strings. Skim the fat from the liquor, take out the bag of herbs, and make a thickened gravy ; boil, and strain the gravy over the meat. Beef Stew with Dunr^lings Use the flank ends cut from roast or steak, chuck, or a shin piece. There should be some bone and fat with the lean, as these give a richer flavor and the meat is more juicy than a clear, solid piece of lean. Two or three pounds of meat will make a stow^ for six or eight people. Cut the meat in rather small pieces, and cut it from the bone ; brown them in hot drippings, turning the pieces so they will brown on all sides. Put the meat in a good-sized stewpan with the bones and any remnants of cold roast or steak. Put in with it 2 small onions, 1 small carrot, scraped and diced or sliced very thin, and, if liked, 1 small turnip, peeled and diced. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly two hours or longer. Take out all the bones and the pieces of fat ; skin the fat from the -liquor, add salt, pepper, and a dash of paprika. Have 6 or 8 mediUm-sized potatoes pared and MEATS 5J7 soaked in cold water while the meat was cook- ing. Put these in and boil more rapidly than before. See that the water just comes to the top of the meat and potatoes. To make the dumplings, take 2 cupfuls of sifted flour ; into one-half the flour rub a piece of butter the size of a walnut, into the other half sift 3 level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder ; mix the two parts together, add a saltspoonful of salt, mix quickly with enough milk to make a rather soft dough, just stiff enough to hold in good shape when dropped from the spoon. Drop in balls from the spoon into the boiling stew, where they should rest on top of the po- tatoes, without sinking under the liquor. Cover quickly and closely and boil rapidly fifteen minutes without lifting the cover. The dumplings should be put in when the potatoes are half cooked, so that both will be done at the same time. The dumplings should be light and fluffy and as easy of digestion as any hot bread. To dish, carefuUy remove the dumplings to a hot plate, put the meat and potatoes in a deep hot platter with, the dumplings around them, and set in a hot oven. Add to the gravy in ' the stewpan 2 spoonfuls of tomato catsup, a little minced parsley, more salt if needed, and if it requires thickening, add a little rice or potato flour moistened with water; let.it boil 5J8 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME up until thick and pour over the meat. If there is too much gravy to serve in the dish with the meat, put the rest in a hot gravy tureen. Beef Hash (Jut the fat and every atom, of gristle from cold roast or boiled beef and chop fine. Add a, little less quantity of cold chopped potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, a little melted but- ter and milk or cream — ^preferably cream — sufficient to. moisten it. Turn into a frying-pan and heat, stirring until it is hot; then let it brown on the bottom, or turn out without browning on a hot dish. Make corned-beef hash in the same way, care- fully trimming off the fat and any objection- able bits before chopping. When thoroughly heated, lift with a spoon from one side of the pan to the other, and add a spoonful of drip- pings ; spread the hash evenly over the pan and let it get well browned. Invert on a hot plat- ter and serve poached eggs on top, or garnish with a border of hard-boiled eggs sauted in crumbs. Rissoles of Beef Use either remnants of cold steak or roast beef. Trim off and discard all bits of gristle and leave very little, if any, of the fat meat. Chop very fine and with it chop a small slice MEATS 519 of fat salt pork, or omit the pork and add later a tablespoonful of melted butter. To 1 pint of chopped meat add the same quantity of fine bread crumbs, moistened with milk or cream (if the pork is omitted, mix the butter with the crumbs); Season well with salt and pepper, a dash of cayenne, and % teaspoonful each of onion juice and kitchen bouquet. Add 1 beaten egg, mix well together, and if not moist enough add a little more milk or cream. Make into balls as large as a small hen's egg, flouring the hands and rolling the balls in a very little flour. Fry in a frying-basket in deep hot fat; % lard and % clear beef drippings is best. When nicely browned, drain on a sheet of brown paper in a hot oven ; pile them in the centre of a platter, and serve with a border of ripe, firm tomatoes, peeled and cut rather thick, with a spoonful of mayonnaise in the centre of each slice, or with slices of boiled beets. Alternate either tomatoes or beets with sprigs of parsley. Veal, lamb, or mutton may be used in the same way. Ragoat of Beef Put in a stewpan slices of cold roast or boiled beef. To each pound of meat add 3 small onions, salt and pepper. Cover with boiling water and simmer two hours or more, 520 MEATS, POULTRY, AMD GAME or until the meat is so tender as to fall readily to pieces. Add % cupful of tomatoes, % cupful of chopped mushrooms, a few pickled walnuts or capers, and % teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour with water until smooth, add a little of the hot liquor and stir well; pour into the hot ragout, and cook ten or fifteen minutes longer. Serve with mashed potatoes. Spiced Pressed Beef Take a shin bone and a pound or two of other good stewing piece, the lower round or rump will do. Have about 3 pounds of meat in all. Wash and wipe off the outride and trim away any poor pieces of fat or dried edges of the meat. Crack the bone as for soup. Cut in pieces that will pack closely in the kettle with the bone. Cover with cold water, and bring at once to a boU. Add salt and pepper, a finely chopped onion, and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and simmer slowly until the meat falls to pieces. The liquor should then be reduced to about one-half. Take out the meat and pick into rather small pieces with a fork. Strain the liqror, add 1/2 teaspoonful each of groimd cloves, adspice, and mace, a little mustard and cay em e, and, if liked, celery salt. Let this come to a boil and ROUND OF BEEF KEATS 52J return tlie meat, stirring it well together with a fork. When it is thoroughly heated, turn out into an oval dish or mould, cover with a plate to press the meat well down, and put it away to cool. There should be liquor enough to make it quite moist, and when cold the liquor should be a solid jelly. Cooked in this way it can be served cold in thin slices for lunch or Sunday supper, either with or without tomato sauce or mayonnaise dressing; it is delicious in sandwiches, or it can be cut in half -inch slices, crumbed, and sauted in butter. For a change from sliced meat, mould it in custard cups or any small moulds. Keep them on the ice until just ready to serve ; dip the cups in hot water for a moment and turn the meat out on a platter, and garnish with sprigs of parsley alternated with crisp, white celery tops, with sprigs of parsley stuck between the moulds. Or for a piece de resistance for the Sunday evening supper, garnish with sauted hard- boiled eggs. Meat and Potato Pie Cut any cold cooked meat into small pieces, there may be more than one' Mnd. Carefully remove all gristle and any stringy fat; put it in 34 522 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME a deep baking-dish, the sides of which have been well buttered and lined with mashed potatoes, the thickness of an inch. Cover the meat with a well-seasoned brown gravy or stock to which has been added I/2 cupful of stewed tomatoes, or 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. If there is a little cold rice, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls. Add a well-beaten egg to the mashed potato, spread lightly over the top of the pie, leaving the surface rough; put bits of butter over the top and bake until well browned, which will take about twenty minutes. Pot Roast of Beef Get a 4- or 5-pound piece of rump or round of beef. If not a solid, well-shaped piece, skewer it closely, and fasten in between the skewered parts small pieces of clean fat or mar- row. Put 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of beef drip- pings in the kettle, or fry out slices of the fat, and when very hot, put in the beef and brown it, turning it on all sides so that it, will be well and evenly browned. Add a cupful of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, % teaspoonful of pepper, and 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Cover the kettle closely and let it simmer three hours, adding water as often as necessary to keep it from burning, and keep about the same quantity in the kettle all the time. MEATS 523 When done, remove the meat to a hot platter, and make a brown gravy of the liquor by stir- ring in a tablespoonful of flour moistened and made smooth with a teaspoonful of Worcester or a tablespoonful of tomato catsup. Let it boil up, and serve in a gravy-boat. Meat cooked in this way can be reheated by putting in the kettle with just water enough to keep it from burning, covering closely, and giv- ing it plenty of time to heat through, taking care that it does not scorch; or it is nice sliced thin and served cold for lunch or supper, with Worcestershire or sauce piquante. Breaded Beef's Liver See that the liver is a fresh one. Have the slices cut thin, and let them stand ten minutes in boiling water. Fry slices of bacon very crisp and remove them to a hot dish. Take a tablespoonful of the fat, shake in black pep- per, dip the slices of liver in this, then in bread crumbs mixed with finely minced parsley, and fry in the hot bacon fat until browned on both sides. When done, lay on a hot platter with the slices of bacon and sprigs of parsley as a border; add to the fat left in the pan a table- spoonful of vinegar and 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup; stir well together and spread hot on top of the liver. 524 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Irish Stew Use the back ribs or neck of mutton, the fleshy part of which must be cut into cutlets. Flatten these pieces pf meat with a roller, and dip them in a composition of pepper, salt, and flour. Peel potatoes and slice them to the ex- tent of 2 pounds of potatoes for every pound of meat. Melt a little suet or dripping in the soup pot, place a layer of potatoes in the bot- tom, dust well with pepper and salt, then add a layer of meat, sprinkled with chopped onions. Proceed until the dish is nearly full, fill up with gravy if you have it, if not, water will do ; finish off with a treble row of potatoes on top. Let it all stew slowly for about three hours, taking care to keep the lid so tight that none of the virtue could escape. Shake the pot occasion- ally with force, to prevent burning. It should be served as hot as possible. It is both a savory and inexpensive dish for cold weather. An Old-Fashioned Boifed Dinner Wash 6 pounds of corned beef and put into a kettle with plenty of water. Simmer until ten- der, but not long enough to fall to pieces. It will take about four hours for it to cook. Cut 1 small cabbage into quarters; scrape 4 carrots and- 2 parsnips; pare 4 turnips and cut into halves; and peel 10 potatoes. An hour before MEATS 525 ilii ri - II I . _ .. . dinner skim the fat from the beef liquor, and turn part of it into another kettle. Into this kettle pour some boiling water and put in the carrots, turnips, and 4 beets. Cook the cab- bage in a separate vessel. Put the potatoes in the kettle with the meat about half an hour be- fore dinner. "When all are cooked tender, dish the meat on a large platter and place around it the vegetables. A nice hash should be made with the remains of the boiled dinner. Creamed Dried Beef Shave f pound of beef very thin and put it into a stewpan with enough water to cover, to which 14 of a teaspoonf ul of soda has been added. Set the pan on the back part of the stove for thirty minutes, then turn off the water, add 1 cupful of rich milk, and season with salt aiid pepper. Let it come to a boil, then add 2 table- spoonfuls of butter mixed with 2 of flour, and after it has boiled for a minute or two turn into a hot dish and serve at once. Dried Beef witli Eggs Shave J pound of beef and put it into tepid water for half an hour, with a pmch of soda in the water to counteract the acid in the dried blood. Drain off the water and cut the meat into small bits. Return to the pan with a tablespoonful of butter and a little pep- 526 ' MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME per, then add 4 well-beaten eggs, stir briskly for a moment, and send to the table in a covered dish. Rdchauffe of Beef h la Jardiniere Put yesterday's piece of meat in a roasting- pan, sprinkle with pepper and salt, cover with thick slices of tomatoes. Pour a cupful of boil- ing water over it, cover, and cook for thirty-five minutes in a hot oven. Meanwhile boil until tender a pint of green peas, a pint of finely cut up potatoes, 3 carrots cut ijito small pieces, and 8 or 10 onions. Season these with pepper and salt. Place the beef with the tomatoes on a hot platter and arrange the vegetables neatly around the beef. Send at once to the table. Beef Balls Chop cold roast beef very fine, leaving in the fat, but removing all pieces of gristle. To 1 cupful of meat put a small cupful of fine bread crumbs, salt and pepper, enough stock to moisten, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and 1 well-beaten egg. Set aside to cool, and when cold form into balls, roll in egg and fine crumbs, and fry for two minutes. Curried Beef Cut 3 onions into slices, and fry. Pour over them a little stock, and add a sliced sour apple MEATS 527 and simmer until tender. Rub through a sieve, add a tablespoonful of flour, and 1 of curry-paste and enough stock to make a sauce. When it becomes smooth and thick, put in the dressed beef, which has been cut into dice. Simmer gently for a short time, and serve vpith boiled rice. Steak ^ la Bordelaise Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and 6 fresh mushrooms; cover and set on the back of the stove until the mushrooms are ten- der. Push the mushrooms to one side of the pan and add 1 tablespoonful of flour to the but- ter; when well mixed stir in a cupful of stock. Let it come to a boil, then season with salt, pep- per, and kitchen bouquet, and let it stand over hot water while you broil the steak. As soon as the steak is broiled, place it on a hot platter, ar- range the mushrooms on the steak, and pour the sauce over it all. Garnish with sprigs of pars- ley, and serve at once. Beef Loaf Chop 4 pounds of the round very fine ; add 2 cupfuls of bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 large onion, 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, and 4 eggs. Mix well together, then pack into a square bread-pan. When cool, turn it out into a 528 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME greased baking-pan, and bake for two tours in a moderate oven, basting occasionally. Serve cold, cut in thin slices with cream horseradish sauce. MEAT AND POULTRY PIES Fowl Pie Cut an old fowl into joints, divide the breast into quarters, and put it in a saucepan with plenty of water. Season with onion juice and the juice of half a lemon; cover closely, and simmer gently for several hours or until the fowl is tender. Strain off the gravy and season it with minced parsley, a bay leaf, onion juice, salt, and paprika. Return to the fire, stir in a limip of butter rolled in flour, and cook f o,r one minute. Gut the meat from the bones and ar- range it in a deep bake-dish ; pour in the gravy, lay 2 hard-boiled eggs cut into slices over the top, cover with a good crust, and bake. Chicken Potpies Have several deep dishes about the size of a birdbath for the pies. Cut a young fowl into MEATS 529 joints, cover witli cold water, and cook until tender, but not until the meat leaves the bones. Lay a piece of light and a piece of dark meat in each dish, add somd minced salt pork and slices of potatoes. Put 3 small cubes of pastry into each dish, and 2 very small onions which have parboiled for five minutes. Thicken 2 cupfuls of the liquor the chicken was cooked in, with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and season it with paprika and minced parsley. Fill the dishes, cover each with a good crust, make a slit in the middle of each, and bake for thirty minutes. This can be made in one dish. Chicken-and'Ham Pie Cut up a young fowl into joints, cover with cold water, and stew until tender. Have ready 4 slices of cold, boiled corned ham, cut into strips. Put a layer of ham in the bottom of a buttered baking-dish, season with parsley, chopped mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Now turn in some white sauce made from the liquor ttie chicken was cooked in, then arrange the pieces of chicken and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Eepeat the sauce and seasoning, lay a few strips of ham on top, cover with a good crust, and bake for an hour and a half. Mush- room catsup may be substituted for the fresh mushroom. 530 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Rolled Boiled Beef Cut a piece of flank beef about 12 inches long, ,6 wide, and 2 incbes thick. Lay on a dish and cover with the following force-meat: 1 cupful of cracker or bread crumbs, 2 table- spoonfuls of finely chopped pork; 1 saltspoon- ful each of marjoram, sage, and thyme; a few drops of onion juice,, 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion, ^2 teaspoonful salt, % saltspoonful of pepper, and 1 egg. Add enough good stock to moisten it so that it can be spread on the meat. Roll the meat, spread with the force-meat, and tie it closely together ; sew it up in cheesecloth, put it into a kettle of boiling water, and cook slowly for four hours. Let the beef lie in the water until it is cool, then place it under a heavy weight for twenty-four hours. Serve cold with horseradish sauce. Corned beef is good prepared in the same way. Baked Beefsteak a la Jardiniere Pound a tough steak well, then lay it in salad- oil and lemon juice for two hours. Then put in your roaster and cover with 2 sliced t6- matoes, an onion and turnip, and some minced sweet herbs. Pour in a cupful of cold water, cover closely and cook slowly, allowing twenty minutes to each pound. Peel 4 good-sized to- matoes and put them into a saucepan to cook. MEATS 531 Ciit 1 large carrot, 2 turnips, 2 onions, 'and 4 stalks of celery into dice, and cook them in salted water in separate dishes. When the steak is done place it where it will keep hot while you make the gravy. Strain the gravy, rubbing the vegetables with it through a col- ander, and thicken with browned flour. Boil one minute, then add the juice of 1 lemon and a glass of sherry. Place the meat on a hot platter, lay the vege- table dice around it, leaving the tomatoes whole; pour the gravy over all. A New England Pot Roast Lay a round of beef in a deep pot ; pour in a cupful of boiling water, add 2 slices of onion; cover, and cook slowly, allowing ten minutes to a pound. Now put it in a drippijag-pan, rub with butter and flour, and let it brown in a ho^ oven. Strain the gravy left in the pan, season with salt, pepper, and a little kitchen bouquet, and thicken it with browned flour. Let it boil for one minute, then pour into a gravy-boat or around the beef. Beef Hot-pot Put 2 pounds of beef ribs into a saucepan with 1 tablespoonful of dripping. Season with 532 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME 2 chopped onions, 6 small green peppers, a little black pepper, thyme, vinegar, raisins, olives, and tomatoes. Place a cover on the saucepan and stew until boiled to rags. Thicken with butter rolled in browned flour, and serve on toast. Braised Beefs Tongue Wash a fresh tongue and put it into a pot to boil. Cook one hour; then trim off the tough edges. Fry a sliced onion in 3 tablespoonfuls of dripping, then drain out the onion and place the tongue in the frying-pan and cook for ten minutes, turning twice. Now place the tongue on the grating of your covered roaster and dredge with flour ; pour the fat and a large cup- ful of boiling water over it and cook, closely covered, for an hour and a half, basting three or four times. When done take up the tongue and place it over boiling water to keep warm, while you skim off the fat and thicken the gravy with browned flour. Season with salt, paprika, onion juice, and half a cupful of strained to- mato sauce. Dish the tongue and pour the gravy over it. Eat horseradish sauce with it. Boiled Beef's Heart Wash the heart and then let it soak, in cold salted water for half an hour. Wipe and stuff the ventricles with a force-meat of bread MEATS 533 crumbs and chopped liam or salt pork, seasoned with salt, paprika, thyme, and onion juice. Sew up in a fitted piece of cheesecloth and let it come to a boil in salted water, to which a tablespoonful of vinegar has been added. Simmer for two hours, turning the heart four or five times. Remove the cloth, and serve with a piquant sauce. Stewed Brisket of Beef Take about 7 pounds of nicely trimmed brisket. Any bone should be taken out; get it without if possible. Put it into a stewpan with water or stock to cover, a layer of bacon under, and over a few cloves, whole allspice, a bunch of sweet herbs, 2 small onions, 2 carrots, and salt and pepper at discretion. Simmer in a tightly covered stewpan from four to four and a half hours; then strain off the liquid (there will not be much), reduce it to a glaze, 'keeping out a little for sauce. Glaze the meat, and send up the sauce thickened round it. Garnish with carrot cut into slices, and glazed onions, which must be cooked apart from the meat. Braised Fillet of Beef Take a fillet and roll it together, so as to bring the fat into the centre. Place a few slices of ham and a little gravy into a braising or stew- pan, on which place the meat; cover it with 534 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME chopped carrots, celery, small onions, a pickled chili, a gherkin sliced, sweet herbs, mace, a little allspice, and salt. Simmer until the meat is tender. Brown it before the fire, or with a frying-pan; skim and season the sauce, and serve with vegetables and sauce on the same dish. Corned Beef Lay a large round of beef into a good pickle. Let it remain for ten days or more, turning it every day. Put it into a stewpan with suflfieient water to cover it, and let it boil very gently until it is thoroughly done. Corned beef is often smoked before it is boiled. Allow half an hour to the pound after it has come to a boil. Fried Liver (English) Cut 1 pound of liver into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, and dredge some flour over them. Take an equal number of Slices of bacon, fat and lean together. Fry the bacon first, and when it is done enough, draw the rashers from the fat, and place them on a hot dish. Fry the slices of liver in the same fat, and when lightly browned on both sides, dish bacon and liver in a circle, a slice of each alternately. Pour the fat from the pan, and dredge a little flour into it. Add a quarter of a pint of broth, a little salt and pep- MEATS 535 per, and a tablespoonful of itiusliroom ketchup. Stir smoothly together until the sauce boils, and pour it into the dish with the liver. Garnish with sliced lemon. If liked, a tablespoonful of finely minced gherkins or pickled walnuts may be added to the sauce. Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the liver. Sufficient for four or five persons. Meat for Beef Patties Miace half a pound of good fresh suet; put it to 1 pound of beef and 1 pound of veal, cut into small pieces, but not chopped. Season it with pepper, salt, allspice, and a very little mace — the allspice and mace should be pounded. Mix all together ; and when wanted for patties, cut up a little parsley, and shred 1 blade of shallot, very finely, to mix with it. Bake in patty-pans or buttered saucers lined with pastry- or with ii pastry crust for half an hour. They are also good cold, and may be warmed up at any time. Beef Fritters Scrape 1 pound of meat from a piece of cold roast beef, and season it with pepper and salt. Have ready a batter made with | cup of flour and about V2 piJit of water. Blend these two well together, and stir in a piece of butter about the size of an egg, which has been melted before the fire. Whisk the whites of 2 eggs, and add them to the batter with the scraped meat. 536 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME '■■ — ■ ■ ■ ■ 1 Stir well, and drop only a small quantity at a time into the pan, when the lard or dripping is boiling. Turn, that both sides may be brown. From eight to ten minutes will be sufficient to cook them over a steady fire. Dry, and send to table on a napkin. Sufficient for two per- sons. Fricandeau of Beef Lard about 3 pounds of the rump or fillet of sirloin. Pound 3 or 4 cloves, 6 whole allspice, and 2 blades of mace. Mix a little pepper and salt with these ingredients, and sprinkle it over the meat. Put it into a stewpan with a pint of medium stock, a glass of white wine, a bunch of savory herbs tied together, 2 shallots, and a little more pepper and salt. Stew the meat very slowly for two hours, when it will be done. Eemove it from the steWpan and cover to keep hot. Skim aU the fat from the gravy, strain, and set it over the fire to boil till it is reduced to a glaze. Then put it over the top, and send it to table. Italian Steak Take 2 or 3 pounds of steak from the rump or fillet — let it be quite an inch and a half in thickness. Brown it in a stewpan with 2 or 3 ounces of butter, turning it frequently over a quick fire. When brown alike on both sides, remove the steak to a baking-pan, with "a tight- MEATS 537 fitting lid. Fry 2 medium-sized onions, sliced, a shallot, minced, and a bunch of parsley in the same butter. Throw this over the steak in the pan. Add 2 large wineglassfuls of port, and 2 breakfast-cupfuls of stock, with a root of celery cut into pieces, 2 pickled gherkins, 4 or 5 cloves, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste. Cover down the lid tight, that no stesam may escape, and let it bake in the oven nearly an hour and a half, when put in a turnip and a carrot, whole, and close as before. If the roots are young they will be done in half an hour. Cut them into dice, and lay them over the top of the steak, which should be placed on a hot idish. Send to table with the gravy strained over. Jewish Sausage, or Chorissa This is used as an accompaniment to boiled fish and other dishes, and is often met with at Jewish tables. It is purchased of the Jew butchers, and is prepared in the following way : Place the chorissa in warm water, let it heat gently, and then boil for twenty minutes. Serve, surrounded with rice made ready as for curry. Jewish sausages are very good broiled in slices after the previous boiling. They should be quite cold before being put again to the fire. One authority is of opinion that they will be found more digestible, as well as pleas- 35 538 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME anter to the taste, if they are half -boiled at least before being broiled, toasted, or warmed in the oven for the table. Olla Podrida This is a Spanish national dish, consisting of several kinds of meat cut into small pieces and stewed with a variety of vegetables. It is much in favor with the poor, and is often kept so long that its odor and flavor both become highly offensive, hence its name — olla podrida, signify- ing putrid mess. Stuffed Leg of Mutton (Parboiled and Baked) Take the bone out of a plump leg of mutton, wipe out the cavity and the outside with a damp cloth. Make a stuffing of 1 cup of stale bread crumbs, and a half pint of oysters, chopped or cut in 2 or 3 pieces. Moisten with the oyster liquor, and season with salt and pepper, a table- spoonful of lemon juice, a pinch of thyme, and a few crushed capers., Fill the cavity with this stuffing, sew or skewer it together securely, put the meat in a kettle with sufficient boiling water to completely cover it. Let it parboil or sim- mer for half an hour, then take it out into a dripping-pan, dust with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Pour into the pan a good 1/^ cupful of the water in which the meat was boiled, and bake in a hot oven one hour, basting MEATS 539 frequently while baking with the liquor in the pan. Boiled Leg of Mutton Trim off the outer skin and fat, wipe and put the leg into boiling salted water. When the scum begins to form, skim it. Boil slowly or simmer ten minutes to each pound of m^at if it is mutton; fifteen minutes for lamb. Serve with ^aper sauce and currant jelly. Garnish the joint with parsley. Mutton Cutlets and Mushrooms Cut the mutton in round, rather thin sHces. Dust with salt and pepper, dip into beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs, again in egg and crumbs; fry in hot fat until a light bi"own. Simmer a cupful of chopped mushrooms in % cup of good stock or gravy ; season with salt and pepper, add % glass of melted currant ' jelly, and pour around the cutlets, after putting them on the hot serving dish. Broiled Mutton Chops Loin chops are the best. Trim off the outer skin and superfluous fat. Broil on a wire broiler over clear, hot coals, turning quickly that both sides may be seared and confine the juice. As soon as both sides have been kept for two minutes to the fire, let them broil more 540 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME slowly until done; five minutes is sufficient if they are liked rare. As soon as done lay the chops on a hot platter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve plain or with parsley butter, tomato or soubise sauce. Grarnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Pan-broiled Mutton Chops Prepare the chops the same as for broiling over coals. Have a frying-pan at a blue heat. Put the chops in without any fat, cook one min- ute, then turn and cook the other side, turn again and finish a little more slowly. Stand them up in such a way as to cook the edges, but do not let them get overdone. Just before tak- ing them up sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put them on a very hot serving-dish, turn melted butter or parsley butter over them^ and serve plain or with a border of green peas. Stuffed Shoulder of Mutton Have the bones taken out of a shoulder of mutton. Rub it all over with salt and dust it with pepper. Make a dressing of 1 cupful bread crumbs, 1 cupful finely chopped raw potatoes, 1 onion chopped fine and cooked five minutes in a tablespoonful of butter, and 14 cupful of finely minced boiled ham. Mix all thoroughly to- gether; season with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of mixed sweet herbs, and if any moistening is MEATS 54J needed, add sufficient hot water to moisten the bread crumbs. Put this dressing in the inside of the shoulder, roll up compactly, and stitch or tie it securely. Put it in the basting-pan, pour around it a cupful of good broth, and roast one and a half hours in a moderately hot oven, basting often with the broth. Serve all mutton on very hot dishes. Braised Fillet of Mutton Cut the fillet from a leg of mutton by taking off a few inches from the loin end, and a good knuckle, which will do for boiling, from the other end. Take out the bone, and fill the hollow with force-meat, if liked, or put the fillet, well sprinkled with pepper and salt, into a braising-pan as it is, but first lay over the bot- tom slices of bacon, land on these a couple of carrots and 2 large onions, each stuck with 4 cloves, a small bunch of parsley and thyme, a few peppercorns, and half a pint of gravy or stock. Put more bacon on the top, cover the lid, and braise for three or four hours. Strain the gravy, and flavor it to taste ; reduce it by rapid boiling. Have ready some French beans boiled and drained; put the beans into a stew- pan with the gravy, and when hot serve them and the meat, which should be glazed, on the 542 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME same dish. The chump end of a loin may be roasted, then glazed, and served with beans in precisely the same way. The meat should be roasted slowly without getting any brown color. Time, about two hours to roast the chump. Curried Mutton Put 4 ounces of butter into a stewpan, and pound 6 middle-sized onions in a mortar; add the onions to the butter with an ounce of curry powder, a teaspoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful of flour, and 1 pint of cream or milk. Stir until smooth. Fry 2 pounds of mutton, cut in neat pieces, without bone. Let them be of a light brown color. Lay the meat into a clean stew- pan, and pour the curry mixture over. Simmer until the meat is done. Time, two hours to simmer. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Haricot Mutton Take 3 pounds of the neck of mutton, divide it into cutlets, trim them neatly, and fry them in a little dripping till nicely browned, and with them 3 carrots, 2 turnips, and an onion, all sliced. Drain them from the fat, and put them into a saucepan. Pour over them a quart of water, which has been boiled in the pan in which the meat, etc., was fried, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with-a MEATS 543 little cold water. Skim carefully, and season with salt and pepper according to taste, and a little catsup. Simmer for an hour. Serve with the meat in the middle of the dish, the vege- tables round it, and the gravy poured over all. A few sippets of toasted bread may be placed at the bottom of the dish, or served as a gar- nish. A garniture of beans is a great improve- ment. Sufficient for five or six persons. Roasted Loin of Mutton Follow the directions given for roast leg in every particular, but trim' off all unnecessary fat, which may be used for a common suet crust. If the fat be not turned to account there is no more expensive joint than a loin of mutton. Cover the fat with paper until within a. quarter of an hour of its being done, then remove, baste, and flour slightly, to get it frothed. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Sufficient, six pounds for five or more persons. Kebobbed Mutton This favorite Oriental dish can be prepared with our mutton in a manner far superior to any Kebob at Turkish or Egyptian tables. Take a loin of mutton, joint it well at every bone, cut off all superfluous fat, particularly of the kidney, and remove the skin; prepare a well-proportioned and large seasoning of the 544 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME following ingredients: Some bread crumbs, sweet herbs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; brush the mutton chops over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle the above mixture thickly over them; then tie the chops together in their original order, run a slender spit through them, and roast in a hot oven, basting them well with but- ter and the drippings from the meat, and throw- ing more of the seasoning on them from time to time. Serve with the gravy from the meat, and have ready besides a boat of gravy, to which has been added 2 tablespoonfuls of catsup and a thickening of flour; let this gravy boil; skim and mix it with the gravy in the dish. Eemember that all dishes of mutton should be served as hot as possible. Time, a quarter of an hour to a ppund. Sufficient for four or five persons. Roasted Leg of Lamb To roast without stuffing, wipe with a damp cloth, dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Put it in a dripping-pan with some of the kidney fat and just water enough to prevent its burn- ing; put it in a hot oven, and as soon as the flour begins to brown, baste with the water in the pan. Bake from an 'hour to an hour and a quarter. To stuff : remove the ,bone, wipe out the cavity and fill with a stuffing made of 1 cup MEATS 545 stale bread crumbs and a quarter of a cup qf melted butter, moistening more, if necessary, with bot water. Season witb a balf teaspoon of salt, pepper, thyme, and marjoram (or a tea- spoonful of mixed sweet berbs). A few drops of onion juice may be added witb good result. Fill tbe cavity, sew or skewer it together, and roast as above. Serve witb mint sauce. Breast of Lamb Braised a la Milanese Cover tbe bottom of a saucepan witb tbin slices of fat bacon; on these place a trimmed , breast of lamb with 2 or 3 slices of lemon on top, and cover tbe whole with a few more slices of bacon. Add a sliced onion and pour in % pint of stock; cover, and put live ashes on top of tbe lid. Draw tbe saucepan to one side of the fire and braise slowly till the breast is ten- der, glazing it when cooked. Lay it on a bed of macaroni on a bot dish, pour rich brown gravy over, and serve. Blanquette of Lamb Cut in small pieces tbe meat from 2 shoul- ders of lamb ; put into a stewpan and cover witb clear broth, or water, and add 1 teacupful white wine. When the broth has boiled two or three minutes strain it, and set where it will settle. Fry 1 chopped onion in a stewpan witb a little butter till brown; then add the meat and fry 546 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME five minutes. Season with, pepper and salt; sprinkle lightly with a little flour, and pour in the broth gradually. Put in 2 cloves and 2 peppercorns, a little choppedmushroom, a bay leaf, and a couple of parsley sprigs. Boil all quickly for ten or fif- teen minutes — till the liquor is reduced to one- fourth its original quantity; then remove to the back of the range, and cook slowly till the meat is done. Then skim off the fat from the sauce ; stir in 3 beaten eggs with a little milk added; stir till it thickens, but do not let it boil; grate in a suspicion of nutmeg, and take up the meat ; lay it on a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, and sprinkle with parsley. Serve at once. Ballotin of Lamb with Green Peas Bone a 3-pound shoulder of lamb — the end bone may be left for a handle. Season with a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper ; sew up and fasten securely with string. Put it in a saucepan with a small, thin strip of fat pork, and a chopped potato, beet, and onion. Cook eight or ten minutes, till lightly browned; then turn over a pint of broth and Spanish sauce in equal parts and cook in the oven about forty- MEATS 547 five minutes. Then strain the sauce over a pint of boiled green peas, and cook for two or three minutes more. Take the strings from the. ballotin; place it on top of the vegetable gar- nishing on a hot dish, and serve. Lamb Brochettes Take the skin from a raw leg of lamb; take out the bone, and cut the meat into pieces of uniform size. Put them into a bowl and ad(i 2 shallots, chopped fine, a teaspoonful each of pepper, chopped chives, and parsley, a tea- spoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon, and a grating of nutmeg. Let this steep for two hours, turning the pieces of lamb occasionally; then take them out, a:nd run a skewer through the centre of each piece, larding it with a strip of salt pork ; roll in bread crumbs till well cov- ered, and broil .for five minutes. Lamb Chops with Champagne Sauce Trim 6 lamb chops, and season with 1 salt- spoonful salt and % saltspoonful pepper; fry in a tablespoonful of butter, about a minute on each side. Let them cool slightly, and spread chicken force-meat over both sides; cover with beaten egg, and an outside coating of bread- crumbs ; fry in 4 tablespoonfuls butter for five minutes on each side. 548 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Put a frill of paper on the end of each, chop, and serve on a hot dish with half a pint of champagne sauce poured over. Lamb Epigrammes with Asparagus Tips Braise a small breast of lamb until tender, then place between two dishes under a weight till cold. Then cut into equal pieces, fasten a bone like a cutlet bone in each, and trim in cutlet shape. Prepare an equal number of lamb cutlets of the same size. Season all with salt, pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice, then dip in beateh egg, and cover well jvith bread crumbs. Fry in 2 tablespoonfuls of butter till golden brown; drain well, and lay in a circle on a hot dish, with boiled asparagus tips in the centre. Serve with a garnish of parsley. Lamb's Fry Take a pound or a pound and a half of lamb's fry. Wash thoroughly in cold water, then set it in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, and let it boil for three or four minutes. Take it out, drain, and dry it in a cloth. Mix a tea- spoonful of flour very smoothly with a little cold water, and add to it a small pinch of salt and pepper, 6 teaspoonfuls of water, and a well- beaten egg. Dip each piece of the fry into this MEATS 549 mixture, tlien fry it in 3 ounces of hot dripping until it is brightly browned on both sides, with- out being at all burnt. Mix a tablespoonful of flour, very smoothly, with the fat in the frying- pan, until it is lightly browned. Add sufficient boiling water to bring it to the thickness of cream, a tablespoonful of catsup, and a little browning, if necessary. A few mushrooms, or a -little chopped onion, may be added, if liked. If preferred, the fry may be cooked without the batter, or beaten egg and bread crumbs may be substituted for it. Broiled Lamb Chops Cut the chops about half an inch thick, trim them neatly, flatten them, remove the superflu- ous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire, ■ and let them remain until brightly browned on both sides, turning them with steak- tongs when required. Season them with pep- per and salt, and serve as hot as possible. Gar- nish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, aspara- gus, green peas, or spinach are usually served with lamb chops. Time, eight or nine minutes to broil. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Fried Lamb Chops with Parmesan Take some lamb chops from the loin or neck. Mix some bread crumbs with a little grated 550 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Parmesan cheese. Dip the chops first into clarified butter and bread crumbs, and after- wards into beaten egg and bread crumbs. Fry the chops as before until they are lightly browned on both sides, dish them in a circle, and send tomato sauce to table in a tureen. Time, ten to fifteen minutes. Minced Lamb with Poacfied Eggs Trim some pieces of cold roast lamb and put them through a meat-cutter; season well with salt and pepper, and a little mint chopped fine. Heat some gravy in a saucepan ; when boiling hot thicken with browned flour, and stir in the minced meat. Prepare as many triangles of buttered toast as needed; place on each piece a poached egg; use these as a garnish around the mince, when it is poured on a flat dish—hot. Curried Pork After removing the skin and superfluous fat from 2% pounds of pork, cut it into small, thin pieces, put them in a saucepan with a table- spoonful of butter, and fry for a few minutes till they begin to turn brown; then put in 2 chopped onions, a tablespoonful of curry pow- der, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir all to- gether and pour in 2 cupfuls broth or water; let it come to a boil, and then only simmer for about an hour; then put the pieces of meat on MEATS 551 - T -- - I. - ■ a dish, and keep hot while the broth is boiled quickly down one-half . Pour it over the meat, and serve with well-boiled rice, as a garnish or separately. Broiled Pork and Chili Sauce A considerable quantity of chili sauce may be prepared at once, as it keeps for some length of time; it should be ready before the meat is cooked. Cut from a leg of fresh pork the desired num- ber of cutlets about half an inch thick. Place them in a double broiler, and cook over moder- ately hot fire for 20 min., or till well done; then place on a hot dish, season well with salt and pepper, and a little butter. Serve with chili sauce in a sauce-boat. Fried Pork Cutlets Take off the skin and extra fat from a loin of pork, chop it into cutlets ; fry them in a lump of butter till a bright brown. Have ready the bones and any trimmings from ham or bacon, and brown them witb a couple of sliced onions; cover with water and cook for two hours ; then strain and skim. Pour this liqudr into another saucepan, and thicken with a little gelatine, and add a small quantity of browning for a color. Brush this glaze over the cutlets, put 552 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME them on a hot dish, and turn over some hot tomato sauce; serve immediately. Baked Pigs' Ears The cartilaginous nature of pigs ' ears — ^while it is a serious drawback to their transformation into " silk purses " — ^makes them a desirable article of food. Singe off the hair, then scrape and blanch 6 or more pigs ' ears ; when cold, dip them into warm butter, then cover thickly with bread crumbs; dip into well-beaten egg yolks, and again cover with crumbs. Place in a baking-dish and bake moderately till done and slightly browned. Arrange on a hot dish, pour remoulade sauce over them, and serve. Boiled Pigs' Feet Put the washed pigs' feet in a stewpan with enough water to coyer; when it boils take the pan off the fire and strain off the water, and put the feet in a bowl of cold water. Rinse and scald the pan and put back the feet, with 2 qi^arts of water, a tablespoouful each of salt and vinegar, and a tablespoonful of flour mixed in a little cold water till smooth. Stir this into the liquor, and continue stirring till it boils; then draw the pan to one side and let it simmer slowly four hours. Take the feet up on a hot LOIN OF BEEF Where the Sirloins Come Fr MEATS 553 dish, pour over a white sauc^, and serve quickly. Pigs' Feet, Stuffed a la P^rigueux With a pound and a half of turkey force- meat mix thoroughly a couple of truffles, minced fine, and half a wineglass of madeira wiae. Take half a dozen pieces of shredded crepi- nette (a skin from the pig's stomach) and spread on each a piece of force-meat the size of an egg, and on this put half a pig's foot, boned. Cover lightly with force-meat, and lay 2 or 3 thin slices of truffles on top. Fold over the crepinettes in the shape of envelopes;' then dip them in beaten egg and cover with bread crumbs, and cook in 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a saute-pan; let them cook slowly for about fifteen minutes on each side, with a heavy weight on the pigs' feet. Serve with half a pint of hot Perigueus sauce; or, if preferred, serve with hot madeira sauce instead. SAUSAGES Mrs. Lincoln says : "If you like to know what you are eating, have your sausage meat prepared at home or by some one whom you can trust." The best sausage is made from young or pig , pork, and the process is not a difficult one if, as 36 554 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME there should be, there is a meat and vegetable grinder among the kitchen utensils. When once used, this will be found quite indispensable for meat^, vegetables, bread crumbs — almost anything that requires to be chopped. Ham- burg steaks as well as sausages are much better when prepared in one 's own kitchen. In selecting the pork for sausage, get one- third or one-fourth fat, the remainder good, solid lean. Grind fat and lean together (or have the butcher do it). Season highly with salt, pepper, sage, and a little thyme. A good proportion for the seasoning is an even table- spoonful of salt, 1 even teaspoonful of pulver- ized and sifted sage, ^2 teaspoonful of thyme, powdered and sifted, and a saltspoon of white pepper to each pound of meat. Mix all thoroughly together and fill cotton bags, pressing the meat in compactly. Bags may be made for the purpose, from strong muslin, half a yard in length and four or five inches wide, or small salt bags may be saved for the purpose These should be washed and boiled, and when needed for use dip in very strong salt water and dry them. When filled as full as possible tie the mouths of the bags securely and put in a cool place. Several smaU bags are better than one large' one, as only the meat for once or twice using is MEATS 555 disturbed. Cut in slices what is needed, and tie the bag again. ■ In frying do not have the pan too hot at first, as they need thorough cooking, and the outside should be well browned, but not burned. As an accompaniment, core and pare 1 or 2 tart apples for each person; slice them across and fry in the sausage fat until tender, but not broken. Put the sausages in the centre of a hot platter and pile the slices around them. Tomato sauce may be substituted for the apples. Boston brown br^ad sliced thin and sauted in the sausage pan, turning so that both sides are nicely browned, is a good addition to the dish. Mecklenburg Liver Sausages Take the liver from a pig while it is quite fresh; mince it, and then pass it through a coarse sieve, but first ascertain its weight. To a pound of the liver mix a half-pound of pork (boiled tender) that has been cut from any part of the pig, although slices from the breast are usually taken. Take the tongue, kidneys, and some of the inside fat; chop this meat, but do not mince it, and mix all with the raw liver. Season with salt, pepper, powdered cloves or all- spice, and a few sage-leaves reduced to powder. The top-fat, from the boiling of the meat, and 556 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME the liquor should both be used. Put the fat, with the meat, into the skins when filling, and boil the sausages in ^he liquor (salted), which must be made quite hot before they are put in. Plunge them, when cooked, into cold water; tlien hang them to dry. To be smoked, or not. The skins must be only three-parts filled. Time to boil, half an hour. Baked Sausages Put a dozen sausages on a baking-dish, alter- nating with 12 strips of bread cut of an equal length with the sausages. Prick the sausages, and bake for fifteen minutes; baste with their own liquor a few times, and when done, serve on a small hot platter with a sauce-boat of hot madeira sauce. Devilled Sausages oteam the required numbet of pork sausages for an hour; let them get cold. Fry small tri- angles of bread in butter to a golden brown; then drain and cover thinly with a curry paste. Skin and slice the sausages thinly, lengthwise, and lay half a sausage slice on each piece of bread, and spread over a small quantity of mango chutney. Cover, and put in the oven till thoroughly hot. Then lay them on a fancy paper on a hot dish, and serve with a garnish of parsley and sliced lemon. MEATS 557 Boiled Sausages \vith White Wine For half a dozen sausages take a half -pint of white wine ; pepper the sausages, cover, and let them boil gently for ten minutes ; then take up the sausages, add a small cupful of poulette sauce to the stock, and boil rapidly three or four minutes. Remove from the fire and add a tablespoon- ful each of chopped parsley and butter. When the butter has melted, pour the sauce over the sausages on a hot dish, and serve quickly. Frankfort Sausages Mince fine equal quantities of fat and lean pork ; season with salt and pepper to taste, and coriander seed with a little grated nutmeg. (If preferred, use powdered sage in place of the coriander' seed and nutmeg.) Fill thoroughly cleansed skins, that have been soaked in cold salt water, with the sausage meat; fasten the ends securely, and let them hang in a dry, cool place till wanted. Boston Baked Beans To be baked to perfection, the New England bean-pot should be used, with a narrow mouth and bulging sides and a cover that fits the mouth. Soak overnight in cold water 1 quart of navy or pea beans. In the morning pour off the 558 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME water and put them over tlie fire in fresh water, and simmer, or parboil, until, on lifting a few on a spoon and blowing a breath over them, the skins crack slightly, but do not allow them to cook untU they break to pieces. Pour off the water, put them in the bean-pot with a small onion in the bottom. Pour boiliag water over % pound of salt pork well streaked with lean. Scrape the rind well, or until it is white ; score through the rind in half-inch strips. Bury the pork in the beans until the rind is even with the beans. Mix 14 of a cup of molasses with a scant teaspoon of mustard, a little salt — if the pork is very lean less salt will be required than if nearly all fat; add a cup of boiling water, mix well, and pour over the beans. Add enough more boiling water to cover. Put the cover on the pot and bake from six to ten hours in a moderate oven ; the longer time is better. Watch that the water does not cook away and leave the beans dry, adding boiling water to keep them nearly cov- ered until an hour before they are done, when remove the cover of the pot, lift the pork slightly above the surface, and 'allow it to brown. Cooked in this way they will be rich and juicy and of a rich red-brown color, each bean being whole, but very tender. To be perfect as served on their " native soil," they MEATS 559 should be very hot and have served with them the real Boston brown bread, steaming hot, sliced as it is served. The red kidney beans are delicious cooked in the same way, as are also what are known in New England as cranberry beans, a red- sp'eckled variety, both these latter being very rich and of a delicious flavor. Roast Sucking Pig Wipe the pig thoroughly, stuff it, and sew up the slit securely with soft cotton. Truss it like a hare, with the fore-legs skewered back and the hind-legs drawn forward. Rub it over with clarified butter, or fresh salad-oil, and put it into a moderately hot oven. Baste constantly, or the crackling will be blistered and burnt, in- stead of crisp and brown. The middle part requires less roasting than the ends. It is usual to keep turning the roast, being quick so as not to cool the oven. Baste thoroughly whilst it is roasting. When it is cooked, remove to a platter and keep hot. Eemove 4;he fat from the gravy which has dropped from the pig, and, when it can be obtained, add a cupful of good veal or beef gravy, together with a little cayenne, lemon juice, and grated nutmeg. To thicken sift in a little flour, making a rich brown sauce. Tomato, poivrade, piquant, provengale, 560 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME bread, apple,- and the old-fashioned currant sauce are all served with sucking-pig. Time to roast, according to size: a three-weeks-old pig, two hours. Sufficient, a three-weeks-old pig for eight or nine persons. Broiled Pork Chops Get chops rather less than half an inch thick. Have a clear fire ; make the gridiron hot before putting the chops upon it, and let them be at such a distance that they may be done through. Pepper them before putting them down, and two or three minutes before they are done sprinkle a little salt over them, and, if liked, a little finely chopped sage or tarragon. Turn them frequently, and serve very hot. Tomato sauce, piquant sauce, Italian sauce, or Eobert sauce, may be sent to table with them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Fried Pork Chops Get pork chops half an inch in thickness, take off part of the fat, and trim them neatly. Sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt and pepper. Melt an ounce of butter in a saute- pan ; put the chops in it, and fry them until they are thoroughly done. If liked, a little pow- dered sage can be sprinkled over them before serving. Send Eobert sauce, apple sauce, or MEATS 561 piquant sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry, twenty minutes — ten minutes on each side. Stuffing of Chestnuts and Sauce for Sucking Pig Peel, scald, and blanch half a hundred chest- nuts, and boil them in a pint of milk, with a pinch of salt and half an ounce of butter. When they are done enough, drain and dry them, and mix them with 1 pound of good pork sausage meait. Fill the body of the pig, and sew it securely. When the pig is filled with this force-meat, a sauce, made as follows, should be sent to table with it : Peel, scald, and blanch 6 ounces of sound chestnuts, ' and stew them in % of a pint of good brown gravy until they are sufficiently tender to be rubbed through a hair sieve. Stir into the pulp hajf a dozen table- spoonfuls of rich brown sauce, season rather highly with mace and cayenne, and add a little salt, if necessary. Stir the sauce over the fire until it boils, and serve immediately. A glass- ful of madeira or sherry may be added or not. Time, twenty minutes to boil the chestnuts for the stuffing; one hour and a quarter for the sauce. Sufficient for one pig. Stuffed and Roasted Leg of Pork Mince finely 3 large onions which have been previously boiled or not, according to taste; 562 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME mix with them half a dozen chopped sage- leaves, 4 ounces of bread crumbs, an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and half an apple chopped small. Bind the force-meat to- gether with the yolk of an egg. Eaise the skin round the knuckle of the leg of pork, fasten it. securely, and brush the rind all over with sweet oil. Put it in a moderately hot oven and baste liberally. Serve the meat on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce to table with it. The flavor of this joint will be im- proved if it is stuffed the day before it isi I'oasted. The Germans stuff a leg of pork with sour apples only. Time, a joint weighing eight pounds will require three hours. Sufficient. for a dozen persons. Roasted Spare-Rib of Pork A spare-rib of pork usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly — ^not exactly according to its weight, but the thickness of the meat upon it, which varies very much. Put into a moderately hot oven. A proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds' weight (so-called be- cause almost all the meat is pared off), with a steady fire, will be done in an hour and a quar- ter—there is so little meat on a bald spare-rib that if you have a large, fierce fire it will be MEATS 563 burnt before, it is warm through. Joint it nicely, and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. When you put it in to roast, dust on some flour, and baste with a littlQ butter. Dry a dozen sage-leaves, rub them through a hair sieve^ and put them into the top of a pep- per-box, and about a quarter of an hour before the meat is done baste it with butter, then dust pulverized sage, or sprinkle with duck-stuffing. Some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the thick part at the bottoin of the bones. When this meat is cut away the bones may be easily separated, and are esteemed very sweet picking. Apple sauce, mashed yellow turnips, mashed potatoes, and good mustard are indis- pensable. Roast Loin of Pork Score the skin of a fresh loin of pork at equal distances, about a quarter of an inch apart. Brush it over with salad-oil, and place the joint into a hot oven. Baste liberally, and when done enough serve on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and apple sauce or Eobert sauce to table with the meat. If liked, a little sage and onion stuffing may be served in a separate dish. It is better not to send it to table on the same dish as the meat, as many people object to ihe flavor. Time, a loin of pork weighing 564 MEATS, POULTRY. AND GAME five pounds, about two hours. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Souse Take the feet of the pig and the head and ears, except the fat. Take off the hard part from the feet ; singe the hairs, scald and scrape thoroughly. Put them in strong salt water and let them soak overnight. Scrape and wash again, and put them in another salted water until ready to cook. Put them in the kettle, with enough cold water to cover, and as soon as it boils, skim carefully. Let it simmer until the bones are perfectly free from the meat, then- skim out the meat and separate it from all bones, gristle, and the most of the fat, leaving only a little of the nicest. Season well with salt and pepper, add a little vinegar, mix all thoroughly, and pack in stone or earthen jars and put in a cool place with a weight on the top to harden. It may be served cold, nicely sliced', gar- nished with sprigs of parsley, or it can be sliced and browned in the oven, or cut in nice square or oblong slices, dipped in egg and corn meal or fine crumbs, and sauted in hot drippings. Head Cheese Souse and head cheese are prepared in much the same way. For head cheese omit the vin- MEATS 565, egar and season highly with savory herbs. Be- fore moulding in jars put it in a cheesecloth and press out the fat. Pack it in' moulds of a convenient size and shape for slicing, and put it in a cool place. These old-time dishes fre- quently find favor with those who remember how they tasted " at grandmother's." Boiled Bacon Put the piece of bacon to be boiled into the pot with sufficient cold water to cover it. Allow it very gradually to come to a boil, removing all scum as it arises, and draw it aside to sim- mer until thoroughly done; then pull off the skin and serve with bread crumbs over the top. Time to boil two pounds, one hour and a half; half an hour for each additional pound. Broiled Bacon Cut streaked bacon into thin slices and lay them on a gridiron oyer the fire; turn repeat- edly until of a light brown color, and serve hot. Time to broil, three to four minutes. Bacon and Calf's Liver The most economical way to prepare this is to fry the bacon fir§t and make the fat serve for the liver, which, as well as the bacon, should be cut into thin slices. Fry the bacon, and remove it as soon as it is done enough to a hot 566 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME dish, before the fire ; flour and pepper the liver, and place it in the pan; turn frequently until done, then place a slice of bacon on each slice of liver. Make a gravy by pouring off the fat and dredging a little flour into the pan; pour in enough water to supply the quantity of gravy desired, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, boil, and pour upon the dish. Garnish with force-meat or slices of lemon. Time, from five to ten minutes. Bacon and Eggs Place nicely cut slices of streaked bacon, from which the rind has been cut off to prevent it from curling up, into a cold pan over a slow fire ; turn frequently and serve with eggs, wliich may be poached or fried, and laid on the bacon. Time, three or four minutes. Broiled Ham Slices of ham for breakfast may be either broiled on a gridiron, toasted, or fried. They are, we think, best when toasted on a fork. If broiled, the fire must be very clear. The bam should not be more than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and is better when soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then dried in a cloth before being cooked. Turn it as it gets crisp. Time, five or six minutes to broil. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. MEATS 567 Roasted Ham Soak the ham until it is softened, then put it into a deep pan, and pour over it a bottle of madeira, or any light wine, and with it 4 car- rots, 4 onions, and 1 dozen peppercorns. Turn it over every two or three hours, and leave it until the following day. Drain it, put it into a hot oven, and baste liberally with the liquid in which it was soaked. It will- require four or five hours to roast, according to the size. Take it up, skin, and glaze it ; boil up the gravy, etc., which should be sent to table in a tureen. It is a good plan to boil the ham for an hour before it is put into the marinade, when, of course, it will not need to be roasted quite so long. Fried Ham with Eggs Cut the ham into slices of a uniform thick- ness, and, if it is very hard and salt, soak it for, eight or ten minutes in hot water, then drain, and dry it in a cloth. Cut off the rind, put the slices in a scrupulously clean cold frying-pan, and turn them two or three times during cook-' ing. Put them on a hot dish, and if the fat is in the least discolored, poach the eggs sepa- rately. Break the eggs, taking care not to break the yolks, and slip them into the pan. Gutter the whites over the yolks with two spoons, to shape the eggs like a ball. Take 568 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME them up with a slice, drain them from the fat, and place them on the ham. Serve as hot as possible. Time, seven or eight minutes to fry the ham. Sufficient, a pound of ham and six eggs for three persons. Veal Cutlets (Plain) Wipe and trim the outer skin from the cut- lets, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Have the frying-pan hot, rub it with a piece of fat pork or beef suet. Put in the cutlets, and as soon as seared on one side turn and sear the other. Fry quickly, taking care that they do not burn or cook overmuch. There is less juice in a veal cutlet than in either beefsteak or lamb chops, and they require careful cooking to be palatable. As soon as done remove to the hot platter and make a cream sauce by pouring into the ■ pan half a cup of milk, and as soon as it reaches boiling-point add a teaspoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of butter, rubbed .smoothly to- gether. Stir until smooth and bubbling, season with salt and pepper, and pour around the cut- lets. Breaded Veal Cutlets with Tomato Sauce The cutlets should be rather , thin. Wipe them and trim off the skin and any stringy pieces of fat. Cut 2 or 3 slices of nice fat salt CHUCK OF BEEF MEATS 569 pork in strips % inch wide, fry them until crisped, and take out on a paper to drain. To the fat in the pan add a spoonful of beef drip- pings. Season the cutlets with salt and pep- per, crumb them by dipping in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in the hot fat until well browned and cooked through, but not too hard. Take them up on a hot platter, and into the pan pour % of a cup of milk ; let it boil, add a half cup of hot strained tomato, and stir briskly. Season with salt and a dash of cayenne, and if the crumbs from the cutlets do not thicken the sauce sufficiently, add a few more, or some cracker flour, and stir till very smooth. Pour around the cutlets, and, if liked, lay the crisp strips of pork around the edge of the platter. Veal Potpie Take 2 or 3 pounds of veal, the knuckle or any pieces that are not too thin or stringy. Trim off the skin, take out the small bones, and cut the meat into convenient and attractive pieces for serving. Pack closely in a stewing-pan and cover with boiling water. As soon as it boils skim, add 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, a saltspoon of pepper, 1 small onion, sliced, and let it simmer two hours. Have 6 medium-sized potatoes pared and 37 570 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME soaking in cold water. Put them in with the meat and boil until nearly done. While the potatoes are cooking, make a short biscuit dough ; have the stew boiling rapidly and drop the dough in spoonfuls on the top — the liquor should be cooked away so that the crust will not sink into it, but rest on the top of the meat and potatoes, and cook by the steam. Cover closely at once, and cook rapidly fifteen minutes with- out raising the cover. Another five minutes' cookiag should not harm the dumplings, if kept covered and boiling. Take up the dumplings and put in the warm oven at once, taking care that the cool air does not strike them suddenly. Add to the pie 2 teaspoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce and half a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, stir just enough to blend, turn into a deep serv- ing-dish with the dumplings laid carefully on the top. A cup of stewed and seasoned tomato, added just before the dumplings are put in, is a good addition. If there is too much of the gravy to p tur over the meat and potato, serve the remainder in a gravy-dish. Double the amount of dough needed for the pie made, and have the remainder rolled out at once and made into biscuit that can be baked for a dessert to be eaten with fruit. MEATS 57J Roast Veal Take a piece of loin, rib, or breast, not less than 5 or 6 pounds. It is not well to roast a smaller piece; it is likely to be dry and taste- less, since veal must be well done to be whole- some. And having less nutritive quality and flavor than almost any other meat, it requires especial care in cooking and seasoning to make it palatable or of much value as food. If a small quantity only is wanted, it is better to cook it in some other way, and there are many ways of using cold roast. It may be made into stews, ragouts, baked in pies, or served as entrees in croquettes, casseroles, tim- bales, etc. Wipe the piece to be roasted with a damp cloth, trim off any skin or objectionable edges, rub well with salt and pepper and a little pow- dered mixed sweet herbs, and dredge with flour. Put it in the roasting-pan and lay over the top thin scales of fat salt pork, skewering them in place, if necessary, with wooden toothpicks. The pork will flavor and baste the meat while cooking, but it is better to baste several times while cooking with the liquor in the pan. Pour half a cup of hot water in the pan and add just sufficient water, as it evaporates, to keep the bottom of the pan covered and prevent the flour and fat from burning. 572 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Allow twenty minutes to a pound for roast- ing, with the oven at a quick heat, covering the top with buttered paper if it burns. When done take out on a hot platter, and make a gravy by adding hot water to the liquor in the pan, if necessary adding first a little more flour and stirring it until smooth. Salt more, if needed, and add a little Worcestershire sauce or a teaspoonful of horseradish. Stuffed Breast of Veai Make a stuffing of stale bread crumbs, chopped onion, chopped salt pork — or butter, if preferred ; season well with salt, pepper, and savory herbs and parsley, moistened sufficiently with hot water. Fill the cavity under the thick part of the breast with as much stuffing as can be forced in, and skewer it well to hold the stuff- ing in, or sew the edges together with small twine. Roast in a moderately hot oven, twenty min- utes to a pound, basting frequently with the water in the paii and melted butter. Fricadelles of Veal Take cold veal that has been cooked in any way. Trim off all skinny or gristly parts and ' cut free from bone. Chop fine, add to each cup- ful of chopped meat % cupful of fine buttered bread crumbs. Season with salt, pepper, and MEATS 573 kitchen bouquet or savory herbs ; moisten with a little stock or gravy, make it out in thin cakes, cutlet shapes, brush with egg, and sprinkle with fine crumbs. Saute in plenty of butter or nice drippings /Until well browned. Tomato sauce is one of the best accompani- ments. To make it, after removing the frica- delles to a hot platter, put in the frying-pan % cup of tomato pulp, % cup of white sauce, and season more with salt and pepper, if neces- sary. Add a dash of cayenne or paprika. Cook all together until smooth, and pour around the fricadelles. Lamb may be used instead of veal. A border of green peas or asparagus tips is a good garnish for this dish. Boiled Calves' Tongues Soak the tongues for an hour or more in cold water. Put them in a kettle and cover well with cold water. Bring quickly to, a boil and skim. Add, for each tongue, 1 medium-sized carrot scraped and sliced, 1 small white turnip, 1 small onion stuck with 2 cloves; add to the whole a bunch of sweet herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Boil slowly two hours. Take them out and skin them. If they are to be served cold, return them to the liquor and leave them in it to cqol. 574 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME They may be served hot with macaroni, spaghetti, or rice as a border. Breaded Calf's Brains Soak the brains in cold water until well bleached. Put them in a stewpan with a table- spoonful of vinegar, a small onion, sliced, a blade of mace, 2 or 3 cloves, salt and pepper, a y^ glass of white wine, and sufficient water to cover. Let them simmer half an hour, and take them out to cool and drain. When quite cold, slice the brain in rather thin slices, dip them in ^^'g and seasoned bread crumbs, and' saute in butter or nice drippings. Serve as an entree garnished with parsley, or as a border to boiled rice or some delicate vegetable. Brain Sauce Take a calf's brains, clean, and soak an hour in cold water. Eemove the outer skin, and put them in a stewpan with enough cold water to nearly cover them; add a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer fifteen minutes; then skim them out and plunge in cold water for a few minutes. Drain, and chop them fine. Have a pint of white sauce or drawn butter, season it with lemon juice and finely minced parsley and % teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet ; MEATS 575 add the chopped brains, and as soon as thor- oughly hot, serve. Serve with boiled calf's head or any dish that calls for a meat sauce. Baked Calf s Head Clean the head well. Put it in hot water enough to cover, and boil gently until the meat can be easily taken from the bones. Carefully remove all the nice bits of meat and cut or pull it apart into medium-sized pieces. Strain over it the water in which it was boiled. Season with salt and cayenije pepper, parsley, a few drops of onion juice and kitchen bouquet, and, if you like them, add a little clove, mace, and nutmeg. Add a good-sized lump of butter. There should be water enough to nearly cover the meat. Put it in the oven in a covered baking-dish, and bake until the meat is very tender. Take the meat out and arrange it on the platter in which it is to be served, and put it where it will keep hot. To the liquor in the baking-pan add 3 well-beaten eggs and a wineglass of madeira or sherry wine. Have the liquor hot, but not boiling, and after adding the eggs, stir briskly until it thickens. As soon as it cooks to a creamy consistency pour over the meat, and serve at once. 576 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAMF, Veal Fricassee Cut from the leg as many rather thin slices as are needed, or use any small pieces of the clear meat from other parts and cut them in nice slices. Have slices of salt pork fried until crisp, or 2 tablespoonfuls of beef drippings. Put the slices of veal in the hot fat, not as many at a time as to prevent browning on all sides. Keep turning the slices as fast as they brown on the outside. A few thin slices of onion fried with the meat are an improvement. Take out the veal, and while the fat is still hot stir into it a tablespoonful of flour, stirring until very smooth and of a rich brown color. Add a pint of boiling water, season with salt and pepper, a blade of mace, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Lay the slices of veal in this gravy and simmer twenty minutes, or until quite tender, and serve. Boiled rice, macaroni, or spaghetti are good to serve with veal cooked in this way. It may be served around a mound of well-seasoned boiled macaroni. Veal Croquettes with Mushrooms 2 cupfuls cold veal, chopped ; 1/2 cupful finely chopped boiled ham, with a little of the fat ; % cupful good stock or meat gravy ; 1 small onion ; 1 scant cupful bread crumbs ; 1 egg ; 1 teaspoon- MEATS 577 ful salt; a little white pepj)er; a dash, df nut- meg or mace; 1 teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce or 2 drops Tabasco sauce. Chop the onion fine and simmer it fifteen minutes in the stock or gravy. (Cream sauce will do if no stock is at hand.) Add this to the meat and the seasoning; when thoroughly mixed, add the bread crumbs and the beaten ^■gg. Make out into egg or cylinder shapes, roll in beaten egg, then in crumbs, again in egg and crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat until a rich •brown. Lift them out in the f rying-basket and put on brown paper to drain a few minutes. Pile in the. centre* of a hot platter with a border of button mushrooms and the seasoned and slightly thickened sauce in which the mush- rooms were stewed. Veal Loaf 3% pounds lean veal; % pound salt pork; 6 soda crackers rolled fine or 1 cup fine bread crumbs; 2 eggs; 1 small onion, chopped fine; 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley; a little grated nutmeg; % teaspoonful kitchen bouquet; salt and pepper. Chop or grind the veal and pork, or have it done by the butcher. Mix the onion and sea- soning well with the meat ; add the crumbs and 578 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME beaten egg. If too dry, add sufficient water to moisten. It should be sufficiently moist to retain its juiciness after baking. A good way is to moisten the crumbs before mixing, as some will absorb more than others, and the loaf is not good, if dry all through when done. Make into an oval-shaped loaf and bake in a pan not much larger than the loaf, but with sufficient room to hold liquor for basting. Pour a little hot water in the pan; sprinkle bread crumbs and butter over the top, or lay thin slices of salt pork or bacon over, and bake two hours in moderately hot oven, basting fre- quently with liquor in the pan. Broiled Calf's Liver Letting liver stand for half an hour in salted water, after slicing it thin, will draw out the blood. Parboiling in salted water before broil- ing will make it more delicate and tender. Drain off the water, wipe the slices, brush it with butter, and broil quickly on both sides. Or dip the slices in beaten egg and in fine bread crumbs, and pan-broil or saute in butter. When nicely browned and tender, remove to a hot platter, pour into the pan a half cupful of cream', and as soon as it boils add a half cupful of strained stewed tomato or 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup and salt and pepper to taste. MEATS 579 Stir briskly and pour the sauce around the .liver. Calf's Liver and Bacon Slice the liver thin and parboil five minutes in slightly salted water. Dry the slices, dust with pepper, and dredge lightly with flour. Cook thin slices of breakfast bacon until crisp. Eemove to a hot dish, and fry the liver in the bacon fat until nicely browned on both sides. Lay the slices on a hot platter and garnish with the crisp bacon. If carefully cooked, the fat in the pan will not be burned, and a nice gravy may be made by putting a teaspoonful of flour in the fat, stirring it until smooth. Then pour in gradually a half cupful of hot milk. Let it boil up, stirring constantly; seasqn with salt and pepper, and pour over the liver. Calf's Liver and Onions Sautded Take 1 pound of liver sliced half an inch thick. Pour boiling water over and let it par- boil — ^barely simmer — for five to ten minutes. Pour off the water and dry the slices on a nap- kin ; dust both sides with salt and pepper. Put 2 spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and when hot lay the liver in and cook quickly until both sides are nicely browned. There is just the right degree of heat necessary to cook liver. It must not be cooked until hard and dry or 580 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME burned, but it needs to be cooked all through. As soon as done remove the liver to a warm, platter, to keep hot. Into the pan put another spoonful of butter and a small, finely chopped onion. Let it cook for five or six minutes, stir- ring until a light-brown color. Add a table- spoonful of lemon juice or wine vinegar, a tablespoonful' of tomato catsup or a teaspoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce, and a little finely minced parsley. Put a spoonful of this sauce on top of each slice of liver. Serve around it a border of nicely browned potato balls or cakes, or small rice balls. Wiener Schnitzel (Viennese Veal Cutlets) Beat up an egg and well soak some veal cut- lets in it; dip them in bread crumbs and fry them in butter on both sides. As soon as they are cooked take them out, drain and lay them round a dish, place some grated horseradish and chopped anchovies in the centre, and serve with a sauce ' ' demiglace. ' ' The ' ' sauce demi- glace ' ' is made as follows : Take the trim- mings of the veal, put them in a saucepan with a little stock, onions, carrots, and a bouquet of herbs. Let all simmer together until the meat is in rags. Skim often. Pass all through a sieve, and clarify with the white of an egg well beaten. Strain again and place over the fire MEATS 581 until the sauae is sufficiently thick. Serve with the cutlets. Minuten Fleisch Cut from the tender, juicy part of a leg of veal a pound and a half, in slices exceedingly thin, and from three to four inches square. Season each slice with salt and pepper, lay them in a deep dish, and pour over them enough wine to cover. When they have steeped and imbibed the wine, diist them with flour on bo.th sides, and put them into a stewpan with a little melted butter ; add white stock to reach to half an inch above the meat. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and simmer with the lid closed. The meat should not boil hard, or it will be spoiled. Time, three hours to steep in wine ; five minutes to simmer after it has come to the boil. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Vinaigrette of Cold Meat Take any kind of cold dressed meat, cut it into neat slices, and put it upon a dish with cold potatoes cut into slices, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and slices of beetroot. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, pour upon it oil and vinegar, in the proportion of 3 table- spoonfuls of oil to 2 of vinegar, and toss it lightly together with a fork. Sliced cucumber, chopped parsley, and finely minced onion may 582 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME be added if liked, and a few drops of tarragon or chili vinegar may be mixed with tbe ordinary vinegar. Sometimes the various ingredients are sent to table prettily arranged in rings round a dish, with the colors contrasting, and they are mixed with the salad dressing at the moment of serving. A vinaigrette of cold boUed beef is excellent. Blanquette of Veal with Cucumbers Cut some cold veal into neat pieces about the size of a walnut and a quarter of an inch thick. Pare and quarter a large cucumber, and cut it into lengths of half an inch. Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and cover them with vinegar. Let them remain for half an hour. Drain them well, and dry them with a soft cloth. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a bright stewpan, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg and a small piece of sugar. Put in the slices of cucumber, and let them simmer gently till tender. Drain off the butter, pour some white sauce upon the cucum- ber, add the pieces of veal, and let all simmer gently together till the meat is quite hot. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and gar- nish the dish with sippets. The white sauce should be made with nicely seasoned veal stock made from the veal bones, and thickened with white thickening. It will be improved by stew- MEATS 583 ing onions and muslireoms in it to flavor it, but it will be very good without them. A little lemon juice may be stirred in at the last mo- ment. Time to stew the cucumber in the butter, about half an hour. Veal Liver PHU (to be Eaten Cold) Take 1 pound of calf's liver and 10 ounces of fat bacon. Mince these first separately, and afterwards together, and season the mixture with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, 2 ounces of finely minced lean ham, and a moderate-sized onion that has been sliced and browned in fat. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and mix with them first the beaten yolks, and afterwards the well-whisked whites of 2 eggs. Line a mould with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the mince, place slices of bacon on the top, and bake the pate very gradually in a gentle oven. "When it is done enough it can be easily pierced quite through with a skewer. Let it get cold, turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. Carve it in slices. Scalloped Sweetbreads After blanching, cut or break the sweetbreads into small pieces. Make a rich cream sauce, with a pint of hot cream, a level tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of butter, and 1 egg; 584 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME salt and pepper. Mix -this with the sweet- breads, and half fill a scallop-dish, sprinkle over a layer of buttered bread crumbs, fill the dish with the sweetbreads, put a layer of bread crumbs on the top, and bake until nicely browned. Or fill scallop-shells or paper cases with the sweetbreads, cover with buttered crumbs, and brown in a hot oven. Scalloped Sweetbreads with Mushrooms Prepare as in the foregoing recipe, add an equal amount of chopped and stewed mush- rooms, fill the Sicallop-dish or shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and brown as before. Sweetbreads with Spaghetti or Macaroni and Tomatoes Blanch the sweetbreads, lard them, and bake until nicely bi-owned, basting with a little rich brown stock. Mix boUed spaghetti with a rich cream sauce, or use spaghetti or macaroni that has been baked with cheese the day previous, Heat it very hot and make it into a flattened mound in the centre of a hot platter, and ar- range the hot sweetbreads on the top, pouring over any sauce that may be in the pan. Sur- round the whole with stuffed and baked toma- toes. This is excellent as a piece de resistance for an informal lunch or Sunday evening supper, RIBS OF BEEF— "ROAST" MEATS 585 . as it can nearly all be made ready beforehand. The tomatoes could be all prepared for the fill- ing in the morning and placed in the refrigera- tor, and the crumbs seasoned and mixed ready in another bowl. The sweetbreads should be blanched and larded, and these also put in the refrigerator. The spaghetti could be either boiled in the morning or baked the day before — a larger amount than needed for dinner being cooked and the remainder saved for the sweet- breads. Half an hour before the time for the meal have the oven hot; if there is a g9,s range, so much the better. Fill the tomatoes and put them in to bake; put the prepared sweetbreads also in the oven, which should be quite hot. While these are baking, set the pan containing the spaghetti and sauce into the oven, giving it just time to get thoraughly heated, or heat the macaroni or spaghetti in a saucepan or steamer on the top of the range. It then only remains to dish them when the tomatoes are done. With a tastily made salad, nut sandwichete or thin slices of bread and butter, which could also be prepared beforehand and put in the refrigera- tor, some fruit and cake or a made dessert of jellied or frozen fruit and tea or coffee, the gods and all their friends should be tempted to eat. 38 586 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Sweetbreads First soak sweetbreads in cold water for an hour or two, changing the water several times. Then parboil for five minutes in boiling water with a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, and throw into ice water to blanch. Let them lie in the ice water five minutes, then wipe dry, and put where they will get perfectly cold and firm, having first removed all the fibres and pipes possible. They may then be cooked in various ways and make a most delicious addi- tion to a lunch or informal supper, or may be served as an entree either by themselves or with mushrooms, tomatoes, asparagus tips, maca- roni, etc. Plain Broiled Sweetbreads After parboiling and blanching, boil gently for five minutes; split the sweetbreads length- wise, dust with salt and pepper, rub over with a little butter, and broil over clear coals, turn- ing often until both sides are a delicate brown. Lay them on a hot platter, spread with butter, squeeze a little lemon jaiee over them, and more salt and pepper if needed. Or serve with pars- ley butter poured over tiiena. Broiled Sweetbreads with Tomato Sauce After parboiling and blanching the sweet- breads, dust them with salt and pepper ; roll in MEATS 587 ■y . ' " — ■ ' ' — • ' beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs; broil over, hot coals, or saute in hot butter until a golden brown. Have squares or rounds of deli- cate, crisp, well-buttered toast on a hot platter, put a portion of sweetbreads on each piece, and pour around them a hot tomato sauce. Broiled Sweetbreads with Stuffed Tomatoes Broil the sweetbreads after crumbing, then serve on a hot platter with a circle of stuffed tomatoes around them. A hearty diish for lunch or Sunday supper may be made by ar- ranging a mound of boil6d macaroni in the centre of the platter with the sweetbreads on top, with the tomatoes as a border. For this dish the sweetbreads may be either broiled, sauted, or stewed, and the macaroni may be cooked the day before and heated in the oven while the tomatoes are baking. Stewed Sweetbreads After blanching, separate the sweetbrea,ds, put in a saucepan, and cover with boiling salted water; add a little paprika, a tablespoon of lemon juice, and a dash of mace. Stew fifteen or twenty minutes, add a half cup of rich hot cream, and a teaspoonful of flour rubbed sfliooth with 2 teaspoonfuls of butter. Stir until the gravy is smooth and thick. Serve with points of erjsp golden toagt. 588 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Sweetbread Patties (Vol-au-Vents) After the sweetbreads have been parboiled and blanched, let them cool and drain. Cut them in small pieces, and put them in a sauce- pan, with a cupful of rich white stock to 2 good- sized sweetbreads; add a tablespoonful of butter, the juice of a lemon, a small piece of mace, a bit of grated nutmeg, a dash of paprika, 2 or 3 cloves, and salt to taste. Let the sweet- breads simmer in this until tender, then lift them out and strain the sauce. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with y^ of a cupful of rich cream. Add these slowly to the hot sauce, stirring briskly until it is rich and creamy, but do not let it boil. Add a half glassful of sherry or madeira wine ; return the sweetbreads to the sauce, and let them get thoroughly hot. Save ready patty shells or vol-au- vents of any. size desired; fill with the sweetbreads and sauce, and serve at once. Stewed mushrooms and French fried potatoes, or asparagus tips, are nice served with these. Sweetbread Croquettes Cut a cold blanched sweetbread in dice, add an equal amount of chopped mushrooms. Simmer a few minutes with a half cup of white sauce or stock ; let the mixture cool ; add 2 table- MEATS 589 spoonfuls of seasoned bread crumbs; add a little paprika, and salt to taste. Make out into balls, roll in beaten egg and crumbs, and fry in hot fat until delicately browned; they will not re- quire more than five minutes to cook in the fat. Serve with them tomatoes stuffed and baked, and potatoes cut in balls with a scoop and fried in deep, hot fat until a golden brown. The po- tato balls may be served as a border for the croquettes, with sprigs of parsley as a garnish. Braised or Smothered Sweetbreads Soak and blanch the sweetbreads, and lard them with strips of salt pork or bacon. Put them in a shallow, covered baking-dish; pour over them enough rich brown stock to nearly cover them ; sprinkle lightly with salt and white pepper, add a dash of mace. Cover closely, and bake in a moderately hot oven for half an hour. Serve with macaroni or spaghetti or boiled rice. Fried Sweetbreads Soak the sweetbreads for an hour, plunge them into boiling water for five minutes, and throw them into cold water till cool. Cut them in slices, egg and bread-crumb them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are brightly 590 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME browned on both sides. Drain them, and then dish on toast, pouring cucumber sauce or maitre d 'hotel sauce upon them. Time to fry the slices, about ten minutes. Larded Sweetbreads h la Financi&re Soak 4 sweetbreads, boil them quickly till they are firm but not at all hard, cool them, then lard them evenly and thickly with thin strips of fat badon. Butter a baking-dish, and spread a layer of sliced carrots, onions, and celery at the bottom. Lay the sweetbreads upon the vegetables, and pour round them as much stock as will bai'ely come up to the lard- ing. Put them in a sharp oven, and bake until done enough, basting them frequently with the liquor. When they are done enough, and the surface is brightly browned, dish them as fol- lows : Put a croustade in a dish, and fill it with Toulouse or fihanciere ragout. Place the sweetbreads against the sides of the croustade, and garnish the dish as prettily as possible. If liked, Toulouse ragout may be used for the croustade instead of financiere ragout, and then the dish becomes Sweetbread, a la Toulouse. The croustade may be made as follows : Take an oval loaf one day old. Cut off the round top, and scoop out the crumb of the loaf, leav- ing three-quarters of an inch of bread all round, MEATS 591 and at the bottom. Pare away tlie crust and dip tlie case into oiled butter. Put it in the oven till it begins to harden, then again dip it in butter, and place it again in the oven till it acquires a little color, when it will be ready for use. Time to bake the sweetbreads, about half an hour. MEAT PIES NicoDEMUS Boffin : "Now, Weprg, just cast your eye along' these shelves, and if you see anything you take a fancy to — have it down ! " Silas Wegq {promptly): "Do my eyes deceive me — or is that a weal-and-hammer ? " —Charles Dickens. The meat pie is often a useful adjunct to a meal, when the marketman fails to deliver in time what was intended for the day's dinner, or to make a variety on the advent of unex- pected guests. It is also a very useful way of using the remnants of cold meat or fowl. Chicken pie used to be invariably served on Thanksgiving Day in many New England families, and memory brings to mind one table where it was the larger part of the Thanks- giving morning breakfast ! Chicken Pie For a large pie take 2 nice chickens ; cut them at the joints, put them in salted boiling water. 592 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME and parboil until tender. Lift them out and cut them up as for a fricassee. Some of the larger bones should be taken out. Make a good pastry, and line a deep earthen baking-dish or " nappy " with a rather thin layer of the .paste. Roll out the remainder, spread with butter, sprinkle the butter with flour, and roll it up. Eoll this out again about a half an inch thick, and cut a strip and lay around the edge of the dish, first wetting the dough in the dish with milk to make it adhere. Fill the dish with the parboiled chicken. / It is a good plan to put a good-sized bone in the centre of the dish to raise the top crust from the chicken and give more room for the liquor. Or a small cup may be inverted in the centre, cutting an X in the crust and bringing the points up around the sides of the cup to hold the gravy. Season the liquor in which the chicken was cooked with pepper and more salt if necessary. Add a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a little of the liquor. Let this boil up suffi- ciently to allow the flour to thicken, pour it over the chicken, having enough to nearly cover it. Put generous pieces of butter over the top, and cover with the paste. ' Cut slashes in the cover to allow the escape of steam, moisten the edges of the pastry lining well with milk to ensure MEATS 593 the adhering of the cover, press together and trim the edge not too closely, pushing the paste up well together, rather thickening it at the edges. Put small bits of butter on the top, and bake two hours in a moderate oven. Beefsteak Pie Eump-steak is good for this purpose. 2 pounds will be sufficient for a half a dozen people. Cut the steak into long, narrow strips ; lay a strip of fat on each, dust with salt and pepper, add a very little shredded onion or shallot, and just a suspicion of mace. Dredge lightly with flour, and roll each strip. Lay these in the bottom of a baking-dish having the edge lined with paste; pour in sufficient water to cover the meat, add a little more seasoning and a dredging of flour. A few chopped mush- rooms or oysters will add greatly to the flavor of the pie. Cover with a crust rolled a little more than a half-inch thick, slash the top to allow the escape of steam, put bits of butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Chicken Patties Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and mince it very finely. To every 6 ounces of chicken al- low 3 ounces of lean ham also minced, a piece of butter about the size of an egg rolled in flour, a small teacupful of cream or new milk and the 594 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME same of white stock, 2 pinclies of salt, 1 of pep- per, % of a small nutmeg grated, the thin rind of 14 of a lemon finely grated, and a teaspoon- ful of lemon juice. A few minced mushrooms are a great improvement. Put these into a saucepan, and stir them gently for ten minutes, taking care that they do not burn. Line some patty-pans with good crust. Put a piece of paper crumpled up or a crust of bread into each to support the top while baking, and place a cover of crust over it. When sufficiently baked, take off the top crust, remove the bread or the paper, 3 parts fill the patty with the mixture, replace the cover, being careful not to break it, and fasten it with white of egg. Giblet Pie An English Recipe The giblets of 1 goose or 2 ducks ; 1 pound of tender beefsteak; 2 small onions; thyme and parsley; salt and pepper. Wash the giblets and put them with the steak, cut in pieces, in a stewpan with cold water enough to cover, and as soon as the water be- gins to boil add the sliced onion and the herbs, salt, and pepper. - Simmer gently for an hour and a half or two hours, remove the herbs and let the giblets cool. Line the sides of a pie-dish with a good paste. MEATS 595 lay in the giblets and steak, add more salt and pepper if needed, pour over enough of the gravy in which the meat was stewed to fill the dish about % full. Add bits of butter, and cover with the crust. Brush the top with butter and bake three-fourths of an hour in a hot oven. Mutton Pie A very good family pie is made with the re- mains of a cold leg, loin, or any other joint of mutton from which nice neat slices of rather lean meat can be cut. These should be put with a good seasoning, in alternate layers with thinly sliced potatoes, into a pie-dish, commenc- ing at the bottom with some of the meat, and finishing at the top with potatoes. Parsley, savory herbs, onion, or shallot, with a little mace, white pepper, and salt may be used at discretion. A cupful of good gravy from the meat should be poured into the pie before the crust is put on. Suet is generally used for the crust. Time, an hour to bake. POULTRY Baked Chicken Clean and wash, tlie chicken and cover with 'thin slices of ham or bacon. Bind the ham on with fine cotton cord, then lay upon the grat- ing of your covered roaster; pour a cupful of hot stock over it, scatter parsley and onion juice over it ; cover tightly, then cook slowly, allowing twenty-five minutes to the pound. Baste three times, and when it seems tender by testing with a fork, unwrap, and baste with butter ; then dredge with flour and let it stand in the oven until brown. Thicken the gravy with browned flour, season, and let it come to a boil. Fried Chicken Singe the chicken, divide into pieces, and cut the joints apart. Wash well and dry on a cloth. Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Fry 6 slices of fat salt pork m a large fry- mg-pan until they are crisp. When fried, take the pieces out and put a tablespoonful of but- ter in the pan, and when the fat is very hot, lay the chicken in and fry slowly until tender and a nice brown. Transfer the chicken to a hot plat- 596 POULTRY 597 ter and turn off all of the gravy but two table- spoonfuls. Thicken this with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and when well mixed together pour in 2 cups of fresh mUk ; season with salt and pep- per and a teaspoonful of finely minced parsley. Boil for one minute, then pour into a gravy- boat. Baked Fried Chicken Clean and wash young chickens, cut at every joint, and divide the breast into 2 pieces. Lay in salad-oil and lemon juice for half an hour; drain, roll in beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs. Lay upon the grating of your covered roaster, pour a little gravy in the underneath part, and cover closely. Cook for three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently with butter and gravy. Uncover, and brown. Garnish with parsley. Scalloped Chicken Boil 1 young chicken in salted water until tender. When cold, remove the skin and cut the meat into small pieces. Melt 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and when well mixed together add 2 cupfuls of rich milk and season with salt and a dash of pepper. Cook for about five minutes. Butter a pudding-dish, put a layer of the sauce in the bottom, then a layer of fine bread crumbs, then the chicken, then some 598 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME sliced mushrooms. Repeat the process until the dish is filled. Cover the tops with half a cupful of bread crumbs, moistened with butter, and bake for about twenty minutes in a hot oven. Send to the table in the dish it was cooked in. Pressed Chicken Clean as usual ; divide the breast and the back into 2 pieces and break apart all of the joints. Put the pieces in a kettle with just enough water to cook without scorching. Cover tightly and cook until the meat falls from the bones and the broth has nearly boiled away. Season with salt, and pepper ; remove from the fire, take out the chicken, and return the kettle, with the broth, to the fire; chop the chicken into small pieces ; season well, pour in the broth, mix thor- oughly together, then turn into a mould or bread-tin. This will jelly when cold and can be sliced for the table. Chicken Terrapin Chop 1 cold roasted chicken fine. Put 3 table- spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with 2 of flour, and when well blended add a cupful of cream. Cook until it thickens, then add the chopped chicken and a parboiled sweetbread. Season with salt and pepper and let it simmer slowly for fifteen minutes. When ready to serve, add POULTRY 599 the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, mixed with 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, and 1 wineglassful of sherry. Garnish with hot boiled rice laid around the stew. Chicken Curry Clean and cut up the chicken and place it in a saucepan with boiling water, 2 onions, and a bouquet of herbs. Cover, and cook until ten- der ; season with salt and pepper. Melt 2 table- spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan with 2 of flour. Cook two minutes ; add half a tablespoonful of curry powder and cook two minutes longer. Add the strained broth and cook until smooth. Arrange the chicken on a hot platter and gar- nish with boiled rice. Fricasseed Chicken Clean and wash the chicken, break every joint apart and divide the breast and back in 2 pieces each. Place the pieces in a pot; add a little water, some minced onion, parsley, and chopped fat pork. Cover closely, and place over a slow fire until tender. Lift the meat out with a split spoon, placing the white meat at one end of the platter and the dark at the other end. Place the platter in an open oven or over hot water while you make the gravy. To do this, pour the gravy into a bowl and set in iced water until the fat rises. Skim, return to the pot, and add a 600 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME cupful of hot milk which has been thickened with a tablespoonful of butter rubbed into 1 of flour. Add a pinch of soda, and let it boil for one minute. Now pour the gravy into a dish containing 2 well-beaten eggs, and when thor- oughly blended pour over the chicken. Chicken en Casserole Truss a young, plump chicken as for roasting. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying- pan, and when hot add a bay leaf, a sliced car- rot and onion, and a sprig of thyme. Let the vegetables cook until they become slightly browned, then put them into a casserole with the chicken; pour in a pint of well-seasoned stock; cover, and cook for forty-five minutes in a hot oven. At the end of that time drop in a dozen potato balls and a dozen mushrooms; season to taste, uncover, and set in the oven to brown. Sprinkle with minced parsley before serving, and send to the table in the casserole. A Pilau of Chicken Wash a broiler or young plump chicken; joint, and lay in a marinade of salad-oil and lemon juice for half an hour. Fry a sliced onion in 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Drain the chicken, but do not wipe the pieces, and when the onion has begun to brown, lay the chicken POULTRY 601 in the pan and fry for ten minutes, turning of- ten. Empty the. contents of the frying-pan into a broad-bottomed pot; pour in 1 cupful of weak stock and 1 of strained tomato juice. Cook gently until the chicken, is tendei;, then take it up and set in the oven to keep warm. Return the gravy to the fire and add three-quarters of a cupful of rice which has soaked in cold water for an hour. Cook fast until the rice is soft, then put the chicken back into the pot, and when thoroughly mixed together heap upon a heated platter and sprinkle Parmesan cheese over the top. Chicken Stuffed with Oysters Clean and wash the chicken, then fill the body with small oysters which have been dipped in salted and peppered melted butter. Sew up in netting or cheesecloth and boil, allowing about twenty-five minutes to the pound. Unwrap, wash with butter and lemon juice, and pour a few spoonfuls of oyster sauce over them, the rest into a boat. Chicken Timbales Put a cupful of uncooked white meat through a meat-grinder, then rub to a paste with a wooden spoon. Put a cupful of milk and 1 of bread crumbs into a saucepan and cook until smooth. Remove from the fire, and when it is 39 602 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME cold turn over the chicken, stirring all the time. Add a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pep- per, and 5 tablespoonfuls of cream. Press through a sieve, and add gradually the well- beaten whites of 5 eggs; put the mixture into small greased timbale-nioulds ; stand the moulds in a pan of hot water, cover with oiled paper, and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with plain cream sauce and peas. Roast Turkey Singe and wipe the turkey with a cloth ; draw it, preserving the liver and gizzard, but be care- ful not to break the gall-bag. Wash well, having a little soda dissolved in the water. Fill the body with bread, oyster, or chestnut stuffing. Sew up the body and the neck ; bind the wings and legs snugly to the body, and if the turkey is scrawny lay thin slices of fat salt pork on the breast. Now lay it on the grating of your cov- ered roaster ; pour in a cupftil of boiling water, then cover and bake for two or three hours, ac- cording to the size of the fowl. When nearly done, remove the cover and wash with butter, then dredge with flour and set in the oven to brown. Dish the turkey on a heated platter, and set in the open oven to keep warm while you make the gravy. Thicken the contents of the dripping-pan with a tablespoonful of POULTRY 603 browned flour, season with salt and pepper, and add the finely chopped giblets. Boil one minute, then pour into a gravy-boat. Serve cranberry-sauce with turkey if pos- sible. Bread Stuffing for Turkey To have good dressing you must have light bread. Slice the bread in thick slices, then put in the oven to dry. Grate with a coarse grater, and to every cupful of crumbs allow a table- spoonful of minced pork. Season with salt, pepper and sage, and moisten very slightly with milk. Oyster Stuffing Make a stuffing of bread cruihbs, season with parsley, thyme, and onion juice, and moisten with melted butter. Add 2 dozen small chopped oysters. Chestnut Stuffing Boil 1 quart of chestnuts, shell and peel them. Mash them smooth, and rub into them 2 table- spoonfuls of soft butter. Season with salt and white pepper, and stuff the turkey with this as you would with any other kind of dressing. Chicken-and-Rice Pudding Out the meat from the remains of a cold fowl, and take-half its weight in ham. Free it from 604 -MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME skin and gristle, and pound it in a mortar, with, a little salt, white pepper, and pounded mace. To 1 pound of fowl, and half a pound of ham, allow a cupful of rice. Boil this in some nicely flavored stock till it is sufficiently cooked, then drain it, and add to it a cupful of new milk and the pounded meat. Stir these well to- gether. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, dredge a little flour over the top, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil it for an hour, taking care that the water in the saucepan does not reach as high as the top of the mould. Serve with mushroom or oyster sauce. Sufficient for six persons. Roasted Capon with Cream Stuffing Singe and clean a fine capon. Boil the liver, and mince it as finely as possible. Pour a little cream over 1 cupful of finely grated bread crumbs. Let them soak for half an hour. Shred finely 4 ounces of suet, 1 teaspoonful of scalded parsley, and 4 or 5 button mushrooms cut small and fried. Mix these well together with a little pepper and salt, and add the yolks of 2 eggs. Stuff the capon with the mixture, truss and roast in hot oven, basting continually. Serve with sauce flavored with chopped gher- kins. Time to roast, one hour. Sufficient for, four or five persons. POULTRY 605 Rdti de Pauvre Homme , Take a fine pullet or capon, tlie fattest pro- curable. Make a force-meat, consisting of some finely chopped sausage meat, raw veal, and lean ham, cock's kidneys and combs, dried artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, truffles, some shred pars- ley, a little lemon thyme and sweet basil, 1 anchovy washed, boned, and chopped fine — the whole chopped and well mixed together, sea- soned with salt, pepper, and a little grated nut- meg, with a good lump of fresh butter well in- corporated with it. With this force-meat fill the fowl by the vent, which sew up afterwards. Saturate with butter or olive-oil three or four sheets of writing-paper, and carefully dredge the fowl with flour. Envelop the bird in the paper two layers thick, and cover the whole with another layer slightly buttered. Bury the bird thus prepared in hot wood-ashes until it is cooked, or put it in a range oven, covered with dish, which must exclude the air from beneath. Kuwab Fowl Put 4 cloves, 1 drachm of pounded ginger, 1 drachm of cayenne, and half an ounce of cori- ander-seed in a mortar. Pound these until quite smooth, and mix with them' 3 small onions, finely \ninced. Divide a small chicken into neat joints; rub them inside and out with the mix- 606 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME ture, and put them into a frying-pan, with % of a pound of sweet butter. Turn them about con- stantly, and when they are brightly browned all over, and sufficiently cooked, squeeze over them the strained juice of 1 lemon, and serve as hot as possible. Time to cook, half an hour. Suffi- cient for two or three persons. Indian Burdwan A very savory and highly approved Indian dish. The joints of a parboiled fowl are gener- ally used for this dish, but if necessary the re- mains of chicken or fowls that have been served before, and even rabbit, veal, or lamb may be warmed up in the sauce, for which the following is the recipe : Peel and chop very finely 4 shal- lots and 1 onion. Put them into a stewpan with a small cup of good stock, 1 tablespoonful of the essence of anchovies, a little cayenne, and 1 ounce of butter rolled in flour. Stir over the fire until the sauce is ready to boil, then put it aside to simmer till the onions are done, adding a small cupful of mixed Indian pickles, cut into less than %-iQch pieces, 1 tablespoonful of chili vinegar, and 1 or 2 glasses of wine, madeira or sherry. Sunmer the sauce to make the pickles tender, and pour in the wine when the fowl is ready to be stewed. Skin and lay the fowl in neat pieces into the stewpan with the POULTRY 607 sauce, and if the fowl has been only parboiled, stew it gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, but for a thoroughly cooked fowl serve as soon as it is ready to boil, with the juice of a fresh lime. Rice is sometimes served with Burdwan as with Gurry. GAME Duck. should be cooked quickly to be well flavored; they should be served in a hot dish, and the plates should also be heated and ready before the ducks are done. Roasted Canvas-back Duck Dress a good fat duck, singe it and wipe well ; put a pinch of salt inside ; run in the head from the end to the back; truss the duck, and lay in a roasting-pan. Sprinkle with salt, and cook in a fairly quick oven for twenty minutes if liked rare,-— 'for thirty if preferred well done. Place on a well-heated dish; untruss, and pour in 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling hot white broth, and serve with a garnish of slices of hot fried hominy and a dish of currant jelly. These di- rections apply equally well to red-head and mal- lard ducks. Broiled Canvas-back Duck After the duck has been dressed, singed, and wiped thoroughly, split it through the back, but without completely separating the pieces. Season with 1 saltspoonful of salt, and y^ 608 GAME 609 saltspoonf ul of pepper, and roll the duck well in 1 tablespoonful of olive-oil. Broil for ten minutes on each side, or longer if liked well done. Place it on a hot dish and cover with y^, gill of maitre d 'hotel butter sauce, add a bunch of watercress for decoration, and serve very hot. Etiddy ducks are cooked in the same way; melted butter may be substituted for the oil. Roast Ruddy Duck Have a fat duck dressed, singed, and wiped carefully; sprinkle a little salt inside, and draw the head through the opening at the base of the neck ; sprinkle the outside with salt, and lay in a roasting-pan ; bake in a moderately quick oven for fifteen minutes, and longer if desired well done. Take it up and untruss, place it on a hot dish and pour inside a little hot white broth. Cut quickly in slices, and serve with a garnish of fried hominy and currant jelly. Broiled Teal Duck Have 3 fat teal prepared for cooking, and take off the heads. Split into halves without completely dividing, and season with a salt- spoonful of salt, half as much pepper, and a tablespoonful of olive-oil. EoU them well in the oil and broil over a clear but not too hot fire, for ten minutes on each side. 6J0 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Have ready in a hot dish half a dozen slices of toast ; lay half a teal on each slice, and cover with half a gill of maitre d 'hotel butter sauce. Serve hot, with a garnish of watercress. Roast Teal Prepare for cooking as many ducks as de- sired, and cut off heads and feet. Put inside each bird a saltspoonful each of salt and pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. Put them in a dripping-pan with "an onion, bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, basting four or five times; add more' butter if needed. While they are cooking, chop an onion fine, and pult it in a tablespoonful of butter over the fire; when the butter browns, add a tablespoonful of flour; stir till smooth; when brown, pour in a pint of boiling water and port wine in equal parts; add a teaspoonful of salt and a salt- spoonful pepper, and a dash of grated nutmeg ; stir till the satfce boils, and pour in the dripping from the roasted birds.' Season the birds with salt, and serve on a hot dish. Salmi of Duck Take the giblets of a duck, stew them gently in veal gravy seasoned with cayenne, 3 finely shred shallots, and some pepper and salt. Roast the duck, cut it up, and lay it in a stew- pan with the gravy. Simmer till quite hot, then ' GAME 6JI squeeze a bitter orange into the sauce, strain it over the diick, and send to table hot. More seasoning may be added for the English palate. Salmis are great favorites with French epi- cures; they are a species of moist devil, suffi- ciently piquant, as a rule, to please a French- man's taste. Time: twenty minutes to roast; twenty minutes to stew. Sufficient for four or five persons. Roast Goose A roast goose is generally filled with sage- and-onion stuffing. The way in which this is made must depend upon the taste of those who have to eat it. If a strong flavor of onion is liked, the onions should be chopped raw. If this is not the case, they should be boiled in 1, 2, or 3 waters, and mixed with a smaller or larger proportion of bread crumbs. It should be remembered, when bread crumbs are used, room should be allowed for swelling. Truss the goose firmly, tie the openings securely, put into a hot oven, and baste it plentifully until done enough. A goose is both unwholesome and un- palatable if insufficiently cooked. Take it tip, remove the skewers and fastenings, pour a little gravy into it, and send some good griavy and either apple or tomato sauce to table with it. Garnish with lemon. Time, from an hour and a half to two hours and a half. 612 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Goose in Jelly, or Duck in Jelly Put the goose in a deep stewpan,/and barely cover it with clean stock, or water. Put with it 1 dessertspoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, 2 large onions, 2 bay leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of lemon thyme and sweet basil, with a small piece of tarragon. Put the cover on the saucepan, and simmer gently, until the meat parts easily fall from the bones. Take out the goose, drain it from the gravy, remove the bones, -which may be returned to the saucepan and boiled a little longer, and cut the meat into convenient-sized pieces. If the gravy requires it,add a little more pepper and salt. Skimoff the fat, strain the gravy through a j ally-bag, and mix with an ounce of good gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water for half an hour or more. Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of the mould. Let it set, then put in any pretty orna- mental devices, such as hard-boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, pickles, etc.; pour a little more jelly over these, and, when it is stiff, put in the pieces of meat, leaving room for the jelly to flow be- tween them. Let the dish remain until the next day, then turn out, and garnish according to taste. Time to simmer the goose, two hours, or a little more. Sufficient for a breakfast, lunch- eon, or supper dish. A couple o^ ducks may be prepared in this way instead of a goose. GAME 6J3 Pate of Foies Gras These pates, so highly esteemed by epicures, are made at Strasburg, and thence exported to various parts. They are prepared from the livers of geese, which have been tied down for three or four weeks to prevent them moving, and forcibly compelled to swallow, at intervals, a certain amount of fattening food. When they have become so fat that they would die in a short time, they are killed, and their livers, which have become very rich, fat, and pale dur- ing the process, are used for the above purpose. These pates are very expensive. A good imita- tion of them may be made without subjecting the unfortunate geese to the cruelties described, by following the directions here given. Take the livers from 3 fine fat geese, such as are ordi- narily brought to market, and in drawing the birds be careful not to break the gall-bag, as the contents would impart a bitter taste to the livers. Carefully remove any yellow spots there may be upon them, and lay the livers in milk for six or eight hours to whiten ; cut them in halves, and put 3 halves aside fbr force-meat. Soak, wash, and scrub, and peel % of a pound of truf- fles, carefully preserving the cuttings. Slice Vs of them into narrow strips, like lardoons, and Slick them into the remainder of the livers % of an inch apart ; sprinkle over them a little 614 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME pepper, salt, and spice, and put them in a cool place until the force-meat is made. Mince finely, first separately, and afterwards together, 1 pound of fresh bacon, Vg of the truffles, the halves of the livers that were put away for the purpose, 2 shallots, and 8 or 10 button mush- rooms ; season the mixture with plenty of pep- per and salt, 2 or 3 grates of nutmeg, and % saltspoonful of powdered marjoram, and keep chopping until it is quite smooth. Make the paste according to the directions given in paste for raised pies. Cover the bottom of the pie with thin rashers of ham, fat and lean together ; spread evenly on these % of the force-meat, then put in the 3 livers, with the slices of truffle stuck in them, and ^.fterwards the remainder of the force-meat. Intersperse amongst the contents of the pie the remaining y^ of a pound of truf- fles, and cover the whole with 2 or 3 more slices of ham ox bacon. Put the cover on the pie, ornament as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten egg, make a hole in the centre for the steam to escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, two hours or more. Suffi- cient for a dozen persons. Braised Hare Stuff the hare with a suitable force-meat. Sew it up securely, and lay slices of bacon on it. GAME 6(5 put it into a braising-pan, with 2 finely minced shallots, a scraped carrot, 4 button mush- rooms, or, in place of these, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and 1 pint of good stock. Place 3 ounces of butter on the hare, put the lid on the pan, and simmer gently for three hours or more. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a dessertspoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little cold water ; add 1 glassful of sherry, ma- deira, or claret; simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Send red currant jelly to table with the hare. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Hare Pepper (German, Haasen Pfeffer) Cut the hare into small coiivenient-si^d joints. Fry these in hot butter uijtil nicely browned, and with theni 1 onion, sliced, and 3 ounces of bacon, cut into dice. Take out the hare, etc., while you brown 2 tablespoonfuls of flour in the butter. Add gradually li/^ pints of water or stock, and, when it is smoothly mixed, put in the pieces of hare, 6 or 8 peppercorns, the rind of % lemon, 4 or 5 cloves, and the gravy from the dish in which the hare lay. Simmer ge»tly for an }iqw or more. Put the pieces of hare vpAfO a di^h, strain the gravy over them, and garnish with sliced lemon. When the hindmost part of the hare has bp^n already served, the inferior joints are excellent cooked 616 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME thus. The head should be split in two, and the liver cut into 2 or 8 pieces. SuflBcient for three or four persons. Belgian Hare, Stuffed and Roasted. First singe and wipe the hare carefully. Then put into it a chestnut stuflSng which has been prepared beforehand. . Sew it up and put into the roasting-pan. Add to it 1 teaspoonful of pepper and about y2 cupful of stock. Put it into a quick oven and baste every ten minutes. Time for baking, one hour and a half. The hare should frequently be turned while in the oven. Currant or guava jelly is nice to serve with this dish. The vegetables may be peas or asparagus tips. Baked Partridge (a I'ltalienne) Pluck arid truss a brace of partridges as if for roasting, and put into each bird a f orce-mf at made as follows : Grate % ounce of stalie bread into very fine crumbs. Season these with salt and white pepper, and % dozen grates of nut- meg ; work in with the fingers 1 ounce of butter, and add 1 teaspoonfulof finely minced parsley, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. Dip 2 sheets of note-paper into some pure salad-oil; peel, mince finely, and mix thoroughly 3 good-sized mushrooms, 1 moderate-sized carrot, 1 small onion, 2 tablespoonfiils of pa,rsley leaves, and GAME 6J7 % dozen leaves of thyme, with. 2 or 3 truffles, if these are obtainable. Divide the minced vege- tables into 2 equal portions, and spread them upon the paper, lay the partridges upon them, and cover the breasts with fat bacon, tied se- curely round with twine, and fasten the paper. Lay the birds side by side, breasts uppermost, in a deep pan, cover the partridges closely, bake in a good, oven, and baste once or twice during the process. When they are done enough, takei, off the paper and the bacon, put the birds on a hot dish, and pour over them a sauce made as follows: Put % a pint of good stock into a saucepan, with an onion, the trimmings of the mushrooms and truffles, a slice of carrot, and a little salt and pepper if required. Boil quickly for half an hour, then strain the sauce, thicken it with 1 dessertspoonful of flour, add a dessert- spoonful of browning, 2 tablespoonfuls of claret, and the minced vegetables which covered the partridges ; boil up once, and serve. Time, from thirty to forty minutes to bake the birds, if of moderate size. Roast Plover Pluck a brace of plovers without drawing them, and wipe them well outside with a damp cloth. Truss them with the legs close to the, body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs; 40 6J8 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME bring the head round under the wing. Put them into a hot oven. Lay in the pan slices of toast, 1 slice for each bird, first moistening it in good gravy, and baste the plovers liberally. A few minutes before they are done dredge a little flour over them, and let them be nicely frothed. Serve upon the toast. A little melted butter may be sent to table in a tureen. Time to roast the birds, fifteen tp twenty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Pigeon Stuffed and Roasted (German Method) Pluck and draw 2 young freshly killed pigeons. Open, scald, and clean the gizzard, and mince it with the liver and heart very finely. Mix with the mince the crumb of a roll which has been soaked in cold milk and pressed dry, and add a little salt and cayenne, a shallot chopped small, and a tablespoonful of shred parsley. If the flavor of the onion and the parsley is objected to, a little bacon and a pinch of powdered mace may be substituted for them. Bind the force-meat together with yolk of egg, and fill the crop with it between the flesh and the neck. The skin must be cut and raised carefully with the fingers, and then sewn or tied securely with thread. Dip the pigeons into butter, dredge well with flour, and season with pepper and salt. Cover them entirely with GAME 619 thin slices of fat bacon, put them into a stew-' pail, and turn them frequently until they are brightly browned all ttver. Pour half a cupful of boiling water upon them, cover the saucepan closely, and let them steam until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce round them. Time, about an hour to steam the birds. Suffi- cient for two persons. Roast Quail Draw the birds or not, according to taste. Truss them firmly, and tie over the breasts a vine-leaf covered with a Slice of fat bacon. Eoast in a hot oven and baste well. When done enough brush the bacon over with glaze, and serve the birds on a hot dish; garnish with watercresses. Pour good brown gravy round but not over the quails. Serve on toast. Time to roast the quails, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufficient, two for a dish. Trussing of Quail Pluck, draw, and singe the quail. Cut off the neck close to the back, and the wings at the first pinion. Truss the legs close to the body, and pass a skewer through the pinions and thighs. Broiled Pheasant Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, and divide it neatly into joints. Fry these in a 620 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME little fat until they are equally and lightly browned all over. Drain them well, sea'son with salt and cayenne, and dip them into egg and bread crumbs. Broil over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish, with brown sauce, mush- room sauce, or piquant sauce, as an accompani- ment. The remains of a cold roast pheasant may be treated in this way. Time to broil, about ten minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Snipe (Cooked German Fashion) Pluck the birds, skin the head, and remove the eyes. Singe them, and cut off the claws; twist the legs, disjointing them, and so bring the feet close to the thighs, and put the long beak through these as a skewer. The position will indicate how the breast may be kept thrown up by passing twine round the joints and lower part of the body, to tie at the back. Put them in a stewpan just Jarge enough to hold them with butter enough to keep them basted, turn- ing as they are done on one side till they are tinged all over. About twenty minutes by a brisk heat will cook them. Toast slices of bread, pour on these the butter from the pan, and serve ±he birds on them. Dressed in this way, they are not drawn before the trussing. GAME 62J Roast Grouse Pluck the birds delicately, being careful not to tear the skin. Draw them, and wipe with a soft cloth, but do not wash them. Cut off the heads, and truss them like fowls. Put them into a hot oven, and baste them almost unceas- ingly. About tell minutes befbre they are taken up^ butter a slice of toast, half an inch thick, lay it in the pan under them, and serve the bird upon this. Send brown sauce and bread sauce to table with them, and browned bread crumbs on a dish. The gravy should be slightly flavored, or it will overpower that of the bird. Time, about half an hour. Suffi- cient, a brace for four or five persons. Roast Venison (a German Recipe) Wash and wipe the venison, then beat it well. Flay off' the skin. Take bacon-strips rather more than two inches long, and lard all over the fleshy parts. Eoast the meat, basting constantly; use sour cream or butter and milk for the purpose. Send to table with a sauce made by adding water to the bastings, skim- ming and straining, and adding pepper, salt, and lemon juice. Broiled Venison Steaks Cut the steaks an inch thick from the leg or the loin of venison. Make the gridiron hot, rub 622 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME the bars with a little suet, and place tie sreaks upon it over a clear fire. Turn them every two minutes to preserve the gravy. Make the steak-dish very hot; put on it for each pound of venison an ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of liquid red-currant jelly, a tablespoonful of wine, or, as a substitute, boiling stock or water, and a little pepper and salt. Turn the broiled steaks in the sauce once or twice, and serve very hot. By way of variety, the butter only may be put into the dish under the steaks, and stewed mushrooms may be served with the venison ; or thin slices of lemon may be laid on the steaks for the last two or three minutes that they are being broiled, and then served with them. Time, from twenty to twenty-five minutes to broil the steaks. Roast Woodcock Pluck the woodcocks carefully, neck and head as well. Do not open them, but truss them securely. Eoast in a hot oven, flour them, and baste liberally with dripping or butter. Dish them with a piece of toast under each, and gar- nish with watercresses. Send melted butter or orange gravy to table in a tureen. It is an improvement to cover the woodcocks with slices of bacon before putting them down to the fire, and, when they are to be had, two or three GAME 623 vine-leaves may be laid under the bacon. Time to roast the woodcocks, if liked underdone, fif- teen to twenty minutes; if liked well-dressed, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Sufficient, two for a dish. SAUCES FOR GAME Port-Wine Sauce Make a rich brown sauce from the liquor in which the game was cooked, thickened with browned flour and seasoned well. Add a table- spoonful of mushroom catsup, a tablespoonful of Worcestergjiire sauce, half an onion minced fine, a sprig of parsley, half a bay leaf, a blade of mace, and a glass of port wine. Simmer all together fifteen or twenty minutes, and strain. Orange Sauce Cut an orange peel into narrow strips and boil until tender, changing the water after it has cooked ten minutes. Cook together 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour, stirring until very smooth. Add half a cupful of stock, a little at a time, Stirring well, half a cupful of currant jelly, half a cupful of any red wine, the juice of one large or 2 small oranges, and the cooked peel. Season with half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, salt, and cayehne. Simmer 624 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME all together until thorougMy blended, and serve hot. Madeira Sauce To a pint of brown stock add a tablespoonful of finely minced ham, the same amount of finely chopped celery, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Sinuner together fifteen minutes. Cook together 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour, and add to the sauce. Cook until thickened and smooth. Add y^ teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, 2 drops of Tabasco, salt to taste, and half a glassful of madeira. Strain and serve very hot. Spanish Sauce % Brown 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, taking care that it does not burn. Add 1 tablespoonful each of lean chopped ham, onion, carrot, celery, and parsley. Cook all in the butt^ until brown. Stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and cook until smooth. Add 2 cupfuls of good stock, half a bay leaf, a blade of mace, 2 cloves, salt, and a dash of cayenne, or half a saltspoon- ful of paprika. Simmer thirty minutes, strain, and serve very hot. Aspic Game or Poultry ' Cut up what is left of game or poultry into neat joints. Pour some aspic jelly into the bot- tom of a mould which has been soaked in cold GAAQE 625 water; next a layer of stars or diamonds cut out of cold boiled white of egg ; a few leaves of parsley, and the red part of cold boiled tongue dotted here and there. Let it become nearly stiff, then arrange the cold game or poultry, taking care to leave room for the jelly to run in between. Fill the mould with jelly, which should be cool when it is poured in. When quite stiff, turn on a mould and garnish with parsley. Time to stiffen, about twelve hours. Shikaree Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl Mix a teaspoonful of cayenne with a table- spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and pour over it 2 glassfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 glassfuls of claret, and the strained juice of a large fresh lemon. Stir the liquor over the fire till the sugar is dissolved and it is quite hot. Serve immediately. Sufficient for six or eight per- sons. Ricardo Sauce for Game, etc. Take any bones of cold roast game that may be left from a previous service, chop them into small pieces, and dredge a tablespoonful of flour over them. Slice 4 moderate-sized onions, and fry them in butter until- they are lightly browned without being burnt; put them into a clean saucepan with the bones, half a 626 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME pint of stock made from bones, a quarter of a teaspoonful of extract of meat, a crust of toasted bread, a glassful of sherry, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire till done enough, rub it through a fine sieve, heat it again, and serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the sauce. Sufficient for six or eight persons. ENTREES Stewed Ox Kidney Cut the kidney in thin slices and soak a few minutes in lukewarm water; drain and dry in a cloth. Sprinkle the slices with salt and pepr per, dredge with flour, and fry in a tablespoon- ful of butter or nice drippings until slightly browned. Add enough water or thin stock to cover it, and season with a shallot (chopped), a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little cayenne, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. Stew gently for an hour or more, until vei^y tender. Thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a tablespoonful of butter, and serve very hot. Sheep's Tongues in Aspic Soak 6 sheep's tongues in cold water for 2 or 3 hours. Boil until tender enough to reiliove the skin. Put them in a stewpan with 6 cloves, a blade of mace, a few sprigs of parsley, half a small onion, and a small carrot sliced, a heap- ing teaspoonful of salt, and 3 or 4 peppercorns. Barely cover with boiling water and cook slowly until very tender. Let them cool in the liquor. 627 628 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME When cold take them out and drain them; lay them in an oval dish or mould with the root- ends, which should be nicely trimmed, together in the centre, and the tips toward the ends of the dish, which should not be much larger than necessary ^^for the tongues. Pour the aspic over, letting it just cover the tops, and put where it will stiffen and get very cold. To serve, turn out on a platter of the same shape, garnish with sprigs of parsley or cress alter- nated with small round beets boiled and peeled, and slice very thin. Moulded Meat Cut slices of cold roast veal or lamb, and slices of lean cooked ham very thin. Lay them in a baking-dish of good shape for moulding; a layer of meat, then a layer of sliced hard- boiled eggs, with a little finely minced parsley, salt, and pepper. When the dish is filled, pour over a cupful of good, rich stock and bake half '^an hour. When cold turn out on a platter and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Mexican Chile con Carne Cut into dice sufficient cold lamb, beef, or veal to make 2l^ cupfuls. Season with a table- spoonful of onion juice and a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and sweet marjoram, mixed. Heat a large, heaping tablespoonful of butter ENTRIES 629 in a frying-pan, and when it bubbles stir in V-/2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir until smooth and thick; then pour in a cupful of soup stock or good gravy, add a teaspoonful of salt, Put the meat with the seasonings into this sauce and add a small, sweet red pepper cut in rings. Simmer together five or ten minutes and serve very hot on squares of hot buttered toast. Beef Tongue Fillets, Sautded Cut cold boiled tongue into slices a third of an inch thick. Marinate for half an hour in "Worcestershire sauce. Eoll in cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in crumbs, and saute in butter until well browned. Take them out on a hot platter and put into the pan a tablespoonful of butter, and when hot stir in a tablespoonful of flour; cook until smooth, and brown. Add % cupful of stock and % cup- ful of tomato pulp, or 3 tablespoonfuls of to- mato catsup. Let all boil up, stirring briskly, and serve with the timbales. If a more highly seasoned sauce is liked, add a teaspoonful of minced parsley, half a tea- spoonful of kitchen bouquet, a few drops of onion juice, and celery salt to taste. Stuffed Calf's Heart Soak 2 hearts in cold water for fifteen min- utes to draw the blood out of the veins and 630 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME arteries; remove as many of these as can be done without cutting the heart. Make a stuff- ing of 1 cupful of cracker or bread crumbs, and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter seasoned with salt, pepper, a little onion juice, and a teaspoonful of powdeted mixed sweet herbs, or a teaspoon- ful of minced parsley and a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Moisten sufficiently with hot water'; fill the cavities with the dressing, tie or skewer the opening to keep the dressing in, put them in a stewing-pain with just enough hot water to cover, and cook slowly for an hour or more — until very tender. Serve either hot or cold. The Same — Bahed Prepare the hearts as in the "preceding recipe, and lard them with strips of salt pork or bacon, or lay thin slices of bacon over the top and skewer them into place with wooden tooth- picks. Put them in a baking-pan with a cupful of hot water; cover closely, and bake from one to two hours, basting often. If there is more of the stuffing than will go in the cavities, spread it over them. When done, add to the liquor in the pan a tablespoonful each of butter and flour rubbed smoothly together, add 2 or 3 table- spoonfuls of tomato catsup, or half a cupful of strained tomato pulp. Stir all smoothly to- ENTRIES 631 gether, let it boil up, and pour over the hearts. A good stuffing for calf's or beef heart is made by taking a link of nice sausage, mixing it with an equal quantity pf bread crumbs, add- ing a scant half cupful of strained tomato pulp, and, if necessary, a little hot water, to moisten. Chicken Timbales, Supreme Chop very finely 1 cupful of white chicken- meat, 14 cupful mushrooms, 6 truffles. Mix all together with a tablespoonful of butter; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash each of cayenne, celery salt, and nutmeg or mace. Heat all together with half a cupful of rich cream, or cream sauce. When thoroughly hot, add a lightly beaten egg and stir until it thickens. Line buttered timbale moulds with rice boiled in milk and mixed with a little butter and beaten egg sufficient to moisten it; fill with the mixture, cover with the rice, and bake twenty minutes in an oven hot enough to brown the tops nicely. Turn out carefully on a hot platter, running a knife around the edge if they do not come out easily. Surround them with creamed peas, or serve in individual dishes with the peas. Or serve the peas dry around them and pass a mushroom sauce. 632 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Lobster Croustades (to Serve Hot) Mix 1 cupful of very finely minced lobster- meat with a tablespoonful of lemon juice, a dash of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of Worces- tershire sauce. Mash well together with a fork. Add % cupful of rich cream sauce and 2 or 3 truffles sliced or cht fine. Mix well. Prepare croustades by cutting slices of bread rather thick; then, with a cutter, cut into squares, rounds, or heart shapes without any of the crust. Scoop out the centres, leaving the bottom and sides at least a quarter of an inch thick. Brush these over or dip them' in melted butter, and brown quickly in the oven. Put the mixture for filling in a saucepan and heat thoroughly and fill the cases. Have the coral of the lobster mashed fine and seasoned with lemon juice and paprika, and sprinkle over the tops. To Serve Cold Prepare the lobster the same as directed, substituting mayonnaise for the cream sauce; and do not heat it, but, after mixing, put it on the ice to get thoroughly chilled, and fill the cases just before serving. The mixture may thus be made ready in the morning for a luncheon or supper. EGGS To Test Freshness " The following method of determining the age of eggs is practised in the markets of Paris. About six ounces of common cooking salt is put into a large glass, which is then filled with water. When the salt is in solution an egg is dropped into the glass. If the egg is only one day old, it immediately sinks to the bottom; if any older it does not reach the bottotif of the glass. If three days old it sinks only just below the Surface. From five days upward it floats ; the older it is the more it protrudes out of the water." — German Newspaper. Boiled Eggs Of the different methods of boiling eggs the old reliable is to put them in boiling water and boil three minutes for a soft boil, five minutes for medium, and eight to ten minutes for hard, if to be eaten at once. For stuffing, garnish- ing, and for picnic or lunches, twenty to thirty minutes' boiling is not too long. Another way is to put the eggs in boiling water and let them stand on the range for ten 41 m 63i MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME minutes, keeping them covered and very hot, but not allowing them to boil. The whites wUl then be thoroughly cooked, but not hard, and it is claimed that they are more easily digested than when subjected to rapid boiling. Still another method is to place them in cold water and let them come to a quick boil. As soon as the water boils the eggs are soft, and the same additional time is required for medium- and hard-boiled as by the old method. (Jooked in this way the whites will not be tough- ened as by rapid boiling, and the yolks will be of a creamy consistency. Poached Eggs To poach an egg scientifically and satisfac- torily it should be broken carefully into the salted boiling water so that the white will not spread and leave the edges ragged. A very little vinegar added to the water will help to set the egg more quickly and keep its shape. An egg-poacher is convenient, as the eggs can be easily lifted out pf the water, or rings like muffin-rings may be set in the pan and keep them in uniform shape. Cook until they are just firm enough to lift out without breaking the yolks, and serve on slices of delicately browned, hot buttered toast. The toast and eggs should be placed on a hot EGGS 635 dish. TMn slices of delicately crisped bacon arranged around the edge of the platter alter- nated with sprigs of parsley makes an attract- ive and satisfactory breakfast dish. Fried Eggs The time-honored way of frying eggs with ham or bacon may be varied by using olive oil or butter. If ham or bacon is used, remove the slices to a hot platter as soon as the ham is done or the bacon delicately crisped, and break the eggs gently into the hot fat. With a spoon dip some of the boiling fat over the top of the eggs while they are cooking, and as soon as cooked sufficiently lift out with a pancake- turner. Scrambled Eggs Beat 4 or 5 eggs just enough to mix the white and yolk; add a scant % cupful of milk, salt, and pepper. Pour into the hot, buttered pan, and stir until it begins to set; then stir very briskly, mixing and chopping rapidly with a large spoon. Cook until the yolk is rather dry, continually mixing and chopping. The white will be in distinct bits and the yolk of the con- sistency of a hard-boiled egg. Pour the^ egg into a hot dish ; dot the top with bits of soft butter, and sprinkle over a half -tea- 636 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME spoonful of very finely minced parsley. Serve immediately. Baked Eggs and Bacon Allow 2 very thin slices of bacon to each egg. Fry the bacon very crisp and place the slices by twos on a large, flat, buttered plate. Care- fully break an egg over each pair ; bake in a hot oven until the eggs are set. Before placing in the oven dust the eggs with a little pepper and salt, and on taking them out put a small bit of butter on the top of each. Serve at once on the plate in which they were baked. Eggs with Cheese Cut hard-boiled eggs in half -inch slices. Ar- range them on a well-buttered dish that has been rubbed with a shallot. Make a sauce of a tablespoonful of butter, a scant tablespoonful of flour, and three-fourths of a cupful of milk. Cook until it thickens, add a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to taste. Pour the sauce over the eggs, sprinkle the top with equal quantities of cheese and bread crumbs, and set in a hot oven until the top is a rich golden brown. Serve in the same dish set inside another. Duchesse Eggs Boil half a dozen eggs until hard, and put them in cold water ; when cool take off the shells EGGS 637 and cut them lengthwise in quarters. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in a sauce- pan over the fire, and stir until thoroughly blended, but do not let it brown. Add grad- ually 1 cupful of white stock and stir until it is smooth and thick. Add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful each of capers and chopped parsley, and salt and pep- per to taste. Put the eggs in carefully without breaking, and simmer gently for five minutes. Serve on a hot platter with a, border of tri- angles of crisp toast, garnished with ^sprigs of parsley. Devilled or Stuffed Eggs Boil 5 or 6 eggs twenty or thirty minutes. When cold remove the shells and cut in halves with a sharp knife. Take out the yolks and mash them smooth with a teaspoonful each of very finely minced onion and parsley, a tea- spoonful of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, and a little mustard. Fill each half of the egg whites with the mixture, rounding each one to appear like a whole yolk. Cut a small slice from the lower side of the white, just enough to make it stand evenly, arrange on a platter, and put a border of cress around and sprigs of the cress in the spaces between the eggs. A few drops of onion juice may be substi- 638 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME tuted for the minced onion, or, if objectionable, omitted altogether, and finely chopped pickle or very finely minced ham may be used with the addition of a few drops of Worcestershire or any other hot sauce. If they are to be used for a picnic or trav- eller's lunch, fill only one-half of the egg whites, 'cover with the other half, and wrap in squares of waxed paper, twisting the ends to hold the ogg in shape.. Eggs Stuffed with Anchovies Allow 1 anchovy to each egg. Boil, the eggs aard. Cool, remove the shells, and cut in two lengthwise. Bone and skin the anchovies, and mash or pound them in a mortar with the yolks, adding a piece of butter the size of a yolk, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a dash of cayenne, a very little grated nutmeg, and salt to taste. Fill each half of the whites with this mixture ; put them in a baking-tin, and put in a hot oven until thoroughly heated. Serve with rounds of crisp, well-buttered toast. Eggs with Tomatoes For 6 medium-sized tomatoes allow 4 eggs. Select smooth, firm tomatoes, cut them in halves, across, and remove some of the pulp. Bake them in a buttered pan. Beat the eggs, add a tablespoonful of rich cream, salt and EGGS 639 pepper. Mix with the tomato pulp, put it in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, and cook until it thickens, stirring all the time. As soon as the tomatoes are done lift them with a pancake-turner to rounds of buttered toast, fill with the hot mixture, and serve garnished with parsley or cress. This makes a hearty breakfast or luncheon dish. Eggs au Beurre Noir Prepare half a dozen eggs as if for poach- ing, by breaking each one separately iiito a cup. Brown 3 ounces of butter in a large fry- ing-pan, and slide the eggs from the cups into it ; when they have well set, ladle the burnt but- ter over them, and sprinkle salt and some nut- meg. Serve on toast wetted with vinegar. Time, from two and a half to three and a half minutes, according to size of eggs. Sufficient, two eggs for each person. Eggs and Spinach Prepare some spinach by washing very care- fully, and then boiling till 'tender. Put into cold water to keep the color good, and when quite cold press the water out of it, a little at a time, in a towel. Chop it very fine, and put it into a stewpan with a lump of butter and some rich gravy. Boil it quickly in this, and 640 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME add pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Or it may be stewed with cream and a little sugar, wMcli is a very delicate method. Poach 6 eggs, and trim them neatly^ Serve them upon the spinach. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boil; five min- utes to stew. ■ Sufficient for three persons. Shirred Eggs Sprinkte fine bread crumbs over the bottom of individual dishes that have been well but- tered. Carefully break a fresh egg into each, dust vith salt and pepper, and cover the tops with bread crumbs. Stand the dishes in a pan of hot water, put them in a hot oven, and cook until the eggs are set. Put bits of butter on the top of each, and serve at once. Curried Eggs Peel 2 or 3 onions and slice them very thin. Put them in a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and cook slowly until the onions are tender and a golden yellow, taking care that they do not scorch. Add a tablespoonful of flour and stir until smooth; then add a tea- spoonful of curry powder, a quarter of a tea- spoonful of ground ginger, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a very little finely minced parsley. Mix all thoroughly, and add a cupful of hot stock or water. Stir until it boils, and stand the saucepan over another pan of hot water to EGGS 64t keep hot. Have ready 6 hard-boiled eggs. Cut them across in slices just thick enough to pre- serve the shape. In the centre of a hot platter pile a mound of boiled rice, arrange the slices of eggs around the edge, and pour over the curry sauce. Serve at once. OMELETS Plain Omelet 3 eggs ; 1 tablespoonful cream ; 1 tablespoon- ful melted butter; % teaspoonful salt; a dash of white pepper or paprika. Beat the yolks of the eggs very light; add salt, pepper, and cream or milk. Fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten very stiff. Have the butter boiling hot in the omelet-pan, which should be kept very smooth; turn the mixture in, and as soon as it begins to stiffen, draw it away from the edges of the pan or gently slide a knife under the centre to allow the uncooked egg to reach the hot pan, and cook evenly. As soon as the omelet is a rich golden brown, fold over and serve at once on a very hot plate. The mixture must not stand after the whites of the eggs are folded in. The secret of a light, fluffy omelet is in making and cooking quickly. This quantity is for two people. Double the above quantity may be made in 642 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME one omelet, but if a larger amount is necessary, it is better to make two or three omelets rather than attempt cooking the whole quantity in one. Six eggs should be the limit. Cheese Omelet Follow the directions for plain omelet, and after it begins to stiffen sprinkle over the top 2 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. Fold over and serve. Ham Omelet Proceed as with plain omelet, and after pour- ing it in the pan, sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls of finely minced ham to which has been added a little minced parsley. Or the ham may be added to the yolks of the eggs before folding in the whites. Garnish with sprigs of parsley. Five or six minutes should be sufficient for the cooking. Asparagus Omelet To a plain omelet add young asparagus tips that have been cooked until tender and seasoned with salt and pepper. Have them hot, and when the. omelet is ready to serve, place them across it and fold them in. Serve quickly. Green Corn Omelet Grate or cut from the cob enough young sweet corn to make a cupful. Put in a sauce- EGGS 643 pan with as little milk as will cover it, and stew gently five or six minutes. Add this to l^he yolks of 4 or 5 eggs, seasoning with salt and pepper ; fold in the whites of the eggs and cook the same as ijsiial. Fold it over only once. Mushroom Omelet Cut 3 or 4 mushrooms in small pieces ; stew them until tender in a little milk. Beat 6 eggs, yolks and whites separately, add the mhsh- rooms to the yolks, using the milk in which they were stewed. Season with a little salt and paprika, fold in the whites of the eggs, and cook as usual. Tomato Omelet 2 or 3. tomatoes are sufficient for 4 eggs. Peel the tomatoes and cut across, remove the seeds, and cut the firm part into dice. Put them in a frying-pan with salt and pepper ajid a teaspoonful of butter, and cook until done. Add these to a plain omelet just before folding it over. Canned tomatoes may be used in an omelet by taking out a little of the firm part. Cook this a few minutes in a small saucepan with a teaspoonful of butter, a little finely minced parsley, and a teaspoonful each of finely minced onion and green peppers. Pour over the omelet when it has stiffened and fold it in, 644 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME or mix it with tlie yolks of a plain omelet and then fold in the whites of the eggs and fry at once. Onion Omelet For 6 eggs take 1 large Spanish onion, cut it into dice, and fry in a spoonful of butter until tender, stirring it often. Do not let it brown. Add very little salt and a dash of pepper, and beat it into the yolks of the eggs. Proceed as in directions for plain omelet, folding in the whites of the eggs. When it is nearly cooked sprinkle over the top a teaspoonful of finely minced parsley. Cook in two omelets. Serve with it French fried, Lyonnaise, or baked, po- tatoes with a cream sauce. Oyster Omelet For a 3-egg omelet take 6 medium-sized oys- ters. Cook them in their own liquor until they curl. Drain, and chop them quite fine; season with pepper and a very little lemon juice. Add them to a plain omelet just before folding it. Small oysters may be cooked in the same way, using a sufficient number for the omelet, and lay them whole across the omelet and fold over and serve. Fruit Omelets A good omelet for lunch m^y be made from fresh or stewed fruits, or with jam, preserves, EGGS 645 marmalade, or jelly. A delicious one is made with peaches. Take 5 or 6 ripe freestone peaches; peel, cut in halves, remove the pits, cut them again in quarters ; put them in a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar and just sufficient water to keep them from burning. Stew slowly, taking care that they do not break. Make a plain omelet, and when jiist ready to fold over, lay the pieces of peach across the centre and fold them in. If there should be any syrup in the saucepan, pour it around the omelet after it is dished. Apples may, be used in the same way. Pare, core, and cut lengthwise in about eighths, nice tart apples. Put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of sugar to each large apple, and a very little water. Cook slowly without breaking, letting the syrup cook down until the apples are nearly dry. Grrate over them a little nutmeg; lay the apples carefully across the cooked omelet, re- serving some whole pieces to arrange around the omelet. Fold the apples in and dust over it a little powdered sugar. Baked Omelet Beat 6 or 7 eggs very light; it is better to beat the whites separately and add them last. 646 MEATS, POULTRY, AND GAME Mix 1 teaspoonful of flour with cold milk until smooth, add a cupful of milk, and bring to a boil. Add pepper and salt, and the beaten yolks of the eggs, then the whites, and turn into a well-buttered earthen baking-dish and bake fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve at once in the same dish. Omelet with Peas Make a plain omelet with 6 eggs. Have ready a pint of freshly cooked green peas — or a can of peas from which the water has been drained — heated and seasoned with salt and pepper. When the omelet has set" and is ready to fold over, put 2 or 3 spoonfuls of the peas in the centre ; fold over as usual and turn on to a hot platter. Add to the remaining peas 2 spoonfuls of rich cream; let it heat quickly and pour it around the omelet. Serve at once. The cream may be omitted and the peas served dry, with plenty of butter over. VEGETABLES. Potato Cakes Take a supply of boiled and mashed potatoes, and, while hot, mould them into balls the size of an egg. Place them upon a buttered tifl sheet. Brush a beaten egg over the top of the cakes and place them in the oven to brown. Slide them on a hot platter with a knife-blade. The cakes may also be moulded in a small after-dinner coffee-cup. The potato, when moulded, will slip out easily if the ihside of the cup has been first wet with water. These: may be garnished with parsley. Browned Mashed Potatoes Take a fireproof vegetable dish and butter the inside. Fill it with hot mashed potato. Brush over the top with butter, and sift a little flour over it. Place it in a hot oven to brown slightly. Lyonnaise Potatoes Cold boiled potatoes; chopped onion; butter; chopped parsley; drippings or lard; seasoning. Cut the potatoes in dice. Put 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter and one of drippings or lard, for each quart of potatoes used, in a frying-pan and 647 648 VEGETABLES melt over the fire. As soon as the butter is melted, add 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion for each quart of potato, and fry only until it turns yellow. Then add the potato, and sea- son. Stir constantly with a fork so as not to break the potato. After five minutes add the chopped parsley, and cook two minutes longer. Warm the dish before serving. Stuffed Potatoes 8 potatoes; whites of 4 eggs; % cupful of boiling milk; 1 tablespoonful of butter; season- ing. Select only large and perfect potatoes. Wash and scrub well, but do not break the skin. Bake them for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. When done, cut them in two lengthwise; scoop out the potato and place it in a heated dish and mash it well. Add the seasoning, butter, and milk. Beat all up together and add the whites of 2 eggs. Refill the skins with the mixture, and brush the whites of the other 2 eggs over the filled skins. Brown in the oven. French Fried Potatoes Choose small potatoes; peel them, and cut them lengthwise into quarters or eighths, like pieces of orange or the quarters of apples. Let them stand for half an hour in very cold water to extract the starch. Dry each piece carefully VEGETABLES 649 on cloth. Fry them in hot fat in a fryihg- basket for ten minutes. Do not fill the basket too full. Drain carefully from fat. Sprinkle with salt and serve hot. Fried Raw Potatoes Slice crosswise half a dozen potatoes very thin — as thin as wafers. Melt in a frying-pan 1 tablespoonful each of lard and butter. When . very hot, place in it the sliced potatoes. Sea- son them, then cover tightly to let the steam as- sist in the cooking, and fry to a golden brown, turning them wjien necessary. To be served very hot. Fried Potato Balls With a vegetable scoop cut out little balls from large, pared, raw potatoes. Let them soak for half an hour in very cold or ice water, to remove the starch. Drain and dry on a cloth. Then fry in hot fat for ten minutes in a f rying- basket. Drain well, season, and serve hot. They may be garnished with chopped parsley. The potato balls may also be cut from CQld, cooked potatoes, and brownec^ in the same way. They may be served with boiled fish. • Potatoes au Gratin 2 tablespoonfuls of butter; 1 pint baked po- tatoes; 1 tablespoonful of flour; V3 cupful 43 650 VEGETABLES grated clieese ; 2 cupfuls of milk ; I/2 cupful fine bread crumbs ; yolks of 2 eggs ; seasoning. Melt the butter, then add the flour, and boil for a minute. Stir in the milk until the sauce thickens perfectly smooth. Add the seasoning and the beaten eggs; Slice the potatoes and place in a deep baking-dish. Pour the sauce over them, then sprinkle over the top the grated cheese and the bread crumbs. Brown lightly in a hot oven for ten minutes. Serve at once. Baked Potatoes Choose fine, smooth potatoes of equal size, and bake ; as soon as tender remove from oven, cut in halves or cut off the top lengthwise ; scoop out the inside of the potato, mash it fine ; season with tablespoonful of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper to taste; beat until very light, then replace in the jackets. If cut in halves, fill the 2 halves level full and press them together. If the opening has been made on the side, fill the cavity rounding full, brush over with yolk of an egg, and place in the oven until a nice brown. Potato Puff 1 pint of hot mashed potatoes ; y2 cupful of hot milk or cream ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; 2 eggs; 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley; sea- soning. VEGETABLES 651 Mash tlie potatoes light and fine. Add the seasoning. Heat the milk or cream and butter together, and add to the potatoes. After cooling a little, stir in one egg. Then mould into small balls. Brush the rest of the egg over the balls, and brown them on a buttered tin. The parsley may be stirred in, or sprinkled over. Instead of moulding into balls, the mass of potato may be heaped up in a shallow baking- dish in irregular shape and browned for ten minutes. This will give it a puffy appearance. In the latter method it is well to beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately. Potato Basket 1 pint mashed hot potato; 2 egg yolks, tea- spoonful salt, dash white pepper, teaspoonful each parsley and onion juice, generous pinch celery salt. Form baskets of 2 tablespoonfuls of mixture; brush with egg; brown in oven; fill with boiled button radishes seasoned with salt, butter, ind white pepper. Arrange green parsley over handle. Potato Souffl6 Into 1 pint of hot, smoothly mashed potato, stir 1 tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper, and 2 level teaspoonfuls of minced parsley. Add Va of a cupful of hot milk, or sufficient to make 652 VEGETABLES the potato very moist. Add the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, beating them in thoroughly ; then add the stilfly beaten whites of the eggs, folding them in quickly. Turn at once into a buttered souf- fle-pan or deep baking-dish, and bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. Serve at once. Sweet Potato Souffle Heat 3 tablespoonfuls butter; when frothy add 3 tablespoonfuls flour ; cook a moment, then add % cupful of hot milk and Yz cupful sweet potato pulp ; when thick, remove from the fire; add I cupful sugar, pinch salt, cinnamon, yolks of 3 eggs beaten thick ; stifily beaten whites; bake ; serve with wine sauce. Mashed Potatoes Boil or steam the potatoes until they are suf- ficiently cooked, and are mealy and dry. Care- fully remove any discplored places there may be upon them, beat them with a wooden spoon or masher, whilst beating ; add a little salt, a piece of butter, and 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling milk or cream. When the beaten potatoes are quite smooth and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan, and beat them over the fire for a minute or two, till they are light and quite hot. Dish them lightly, and dr^w the fork backwards over them to roughen the surface. VEGETABLES 653 Potatoes with White Sauce Thicken some butter with flour in a stewpan, add some milk or cream, with chives and pars- ley cut small, season with salt, pepper, and nut- meg, and boU these ingredients to the consist- ency of sauce. When ready, put in some cooked potatoes, and serve very hot with a little chopped parsley sprinkled over them. Boiled Potatoes When about to boil potatoes, pick them out as nearly as possible of one size, or the large ones will be hard when the small ones are reduced to pulp. If this cannot easily be done, cut them to one size. ^ Wash them well, remove the specks or eyes, and pare them as thinly as possible, to avoid waste. As they are pared, throw them into cold water, and let them remain in it until wanted. Put them into a saucepan with barely enough cold water to cover them, and as soon as the water boils throw in a little more cold water. This will check the heat, and keep the potatoes from breaking before they are done through. Thrust a fork into them occasionally; and as soon as they are soft take them up, pour off the liquor, and let them stand by the side of the fire with the saucepan partially uncovered till the moisture has evaporated and they are quite dry. If they are allowed to remain in the water after 654 VEGETABLES. they are done enoiigh, they will become soggy. Serve very hot. When, potatoes are done be- fore they are wanted, they should be drained and left in the saucepan by the side of the fire, and instead ot the lid a folded cloth should be laid over them. This will absorb the moisture and keep them hot and in good condition for some time. In order to make boiled potatoes look floury, boil and drain them as above, and whilst they are drying by the side of the fire shake the saucepan vigorously every minute or two. Potatoes Boiled in Their Jackets Potatoes are frequently boiled and served in their jackets, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest to receive the skins. The skins are frequently removed before serving. Choose potatoes of uniform size, and scrub them with a soft brush until they are perfectly clean. Put them into a saucepan with a little cold water, not quite sufficient to cover them. Boil them as gently as possible, for the more slowly they are cooked the better they will be. If a little salt is thrown in occasionally, it will be found a great improvement. If the potatoes are large, add half a cupful of cold water every now and then. In order to ascertain whether or not they are done enough, probe them occasion- ally with a forkj and when they are tender VEGETABLES 655 throughout, pour off the water, put the sauce- pan once more on the fire, and let it remain until the potatoes are quite dry. Send them to table. Broiled Potatoes Take some cold boiled potatoes; cut them lengthwise into slices half an inch thick, dredge a little flour lightly over these, and lay them on a hot gridiron over a clear but not very fierce fire. Turn them about that they may be equally colored on both sides, and serve very hot. The slices must not be allowed to get hard, or they will be spoilt. Time, till browned. Allow 2 or 3 potatoes for each person. Fried Potatoes (German) Cut up half a dozen firm boiled potatoes in slices %. of an inch thick. Put these into a saucepan with 2 ounces of fresh butter, and shake them over the fire until they are lightly browned. Sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of finely minced onion, and the juice of % a small lemon. 1 teaspoonful of good brown gravy may be added or not. Serve very hot. Time, ten minutes to fry the potatoes. Potatoes Browned under a Roasting Joint Half boil 8 or 10 large potatoes. Drain the water from them, flour them well, and lay them 656 VEGETABLES -■ II. —■ - ....iMi II ,m4 in the roasting-panin the dripping just one-half hour before the meat is ready. Baste the po- tatoes liberally from time to time. When they are browned on one side turn them upon the other. Before sending to table, place them on blotting-paper and serve in the same platter with the roast. Saratoga Chips Pare raw potatoes, slice thin, let soak in cold water fifteen minutes and then dry on soft towel, covering them with another so that they will not discolor. Let them remain until the water has been absorbed, then have ready a kettle of boil- ing lard, drop a handful of the potatoes into the lard, and fry until light brown, stirring often. Take up on soft brown paper in a colander, sprinkle with salt, and place in the oven to keep warm. Put in more potatoes, and continue until sufficient have been fried in the same way. Hashed Brown Potatoes Chop up the amount of cold potatoes desired rather fine; season with salt and pepper, and then add % cupful of cream. Into a hot frying-pan put 1 tablespoonful of butter ; when it is heated without burning, put in the potatoes, packing down evenly, stand over a hot fire for five minutes, then draw one side to moderate heat, and cover so that the potatoes , VEGETABLES 657 may become thorouglxly" heated and steamed throughout, the bottom browning. When done, fold over as for an omelet ; serve on hot platter garnished with parsley. Sweet Potatoes au Gratin Same as potatoes au gratin, using instead the sweet potato. Escalloped Sweet Potatoes Peel and slice thin. In a shallow tin put a layer of potatoes. Sprinkle with salt, a little sugar and bits of butter, then another layer of potato, then seasoning until the tin is full. Cover sparingly with water or milk and bake very slowly. Sweet Potatoes and Apples Boil sweet potatoes until tender, then slice them in small pieces. Make an apple sauce just as it should be served for the table. Put a layer of sweet potatoes in the bottom of a baking- dish; sprinkle with a very little sugar and dot over the top a few flecks of butter. On top of this put a layer of the apple sauce, alternately using the sweet potatoes 'and apples, until the dish is filled. Finish the top with the potatoes and then use more butter and sugar, so that a rich brown crust is formed. Bake from one hour to one and a half hours. This is very good with game. 658 VEGETABLES Sweet Potato Croquettes Boil 6 medium-sized sweet potatoes. Ee- move the skins, and proceed the same as for po- tato croquettes. All sweet potatoes can be treated in the same manner as the Irish potato, with the exceptioi of frying with onion. Potato Rice Boil 2 pounds of potatoes ; mash them with 2 ounces of butter and 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling milk, and season with pepper and salt. Put them into a large colander, and press them through this on to a hot dish, and whilst doing so, shake the colander every minute or so, that the potatoes may fall lightly like rice. Serve very hot, with broiled steak or sausages. Escalloped Potatoes Mash some potatoes in the usual way with butter and a little hot milk. Butter some scal- lop-shells or patty-pans, fill them with the mashed potatoes, make them smooth on the top, and then draw the back of a fork over them. Sprinkle finely grated bread crumbs on the top, and lay small pieces of butter here and there upon them. Put the potatoes in a Dutch oven before the fire till they are brightly browned, and serve on a neatly folded napkin in the scal- lop-shells. Time, about a quarter of au hour to VEGETABLES 659 brown the potatoes. SuflScient, one scallop- shell for each person. Casserole of Potatoes Peel and boil some good mealy potatoes, mash them with a little salt, butter, cream, and the yolk of 1 egg to every pint of potatoes. Beat them two or three minutes over the fire to dry them thoroughly, then place them on a shallow dish, and work them with the hands into the shape of a raised pie. Leave a hollow in the middle, ornament it with flutings, etc., brush it over with beaten egg, and brown it in a quick oven. Fill the inside with a ragout or mince, and serve hot. Potato Croquettes Bake half a dozen large potatoes (regents). When done enough, burst them open, and scoop out the contents with a spoon. Beat the pulp until it is quite smooth, then put it into a clean saucepan with the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Beat this mixture over a moderate fire, until it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon, then spread it out on a dish and let it cool. Shape it into balls; dip these in beaten egg, then into bread crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are equally and lightly browned. Let them drain before 660 ''EGETABLES the fire, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve immediately. If liked, the potato paste can be shaped into the form of corks or pears, a little piece of parsley-stalk being stuck into them to imitate the stalk. SnflBcient for a small dish. Potato Fritters Boil and peel the potatoes, grate or mash them, add 4 well-beaten eggs, a little cream, chopped parsley, chives, salt, and spice, and mix the whole well together. Drop a teaspoon- ful of this paste into a pan of boiling lard or butter, when it will swell into a light fritter. Or, take the mealy part of potatoes roasted; beat it in a mortar with a little fine salt, 1 spoon- ful of brandy, some fresh butter and cream. Mix the whole, adding gradually 1 well-beaten egg; shape the paste into small balls, which roll in flour, fry, and serve, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Potato Ribbons Wash and peel half a dozen large kidney po- tatoes, and let them lie in cold water for a few minutes. Cut them into ribbons, round and round, like an apple, and keep the strips as nearly as possible of one width. They must not be too thin or they will break. Fry them in plenty of hot fat until they are lightly browned. Drain them on a wire sieve, and sprinkle a little VEGETABLES 66t pepper and salt over them. Serve on a hot dish. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. Suf- ficient for three or four persons. Potatoes a la Cr^me Boil some potatoes of a firm kind in the usual way. Take a small, sharp, thin-bladed knife and cut them into thin slices. Put 1 pint of these into a stewpan with 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 ounce of butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Pour % of a pint of cream over the top, cover the saucepan closely, and shake-it over the fire for eight or ten minutes. Place the pota- toes on a hot dish, and be very careful not to break them. Plain Boiled Rice Wash 1/^ a pound of rice through several waters to remove all the flour. Throw it a little at a time into 2 quarts of slightly salted rapidly boiling water ; let it boil steadily, uncovered, for twenty minutes. Drain, toss it gently with a fork, and dry it for five or ten minutes in a hot oven. Serve uncovered. Rice Boiled with Milk Wash and boil as for the preceding. When it has boiled ten minutes drain off the water, 662 VEGETABLES and pour over enough hot milk to nearly cover the rice ; cook ^another thirty minutes with the kettle covered — it should be put in a double boiler when the milk is added. Eemove the cover and let it stand where it will keep hot and dry off ; , tossing it gently with a fork to allow the steam to escape more freely. Serve on a hot dish. Risotto This is an elegant Italian dish, the principal ingredient of which is rice. Shred onions into a frying-pan with plenty of butter, and fry till the onions become very brown and communicate their color to the butter. Run the butter off, and add to this some rich broth, slightly fla- vored with saffron ; thicken the whole with well- boiled rice, and serve up as a ppta^e, instead of soup, at the beginning of dinner. Rice Croquettes Put 14 of a pound of rice, 1 pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of finely sifted sugar, 1 piece of butter the size of a small n-ut, and the thin rind of a lemon into a saucepan. Any other flavor- ing may be used, if preferred. Simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed- It must be boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould into croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn VEGETABLES 6a it out, and when it is cold and stiff , form it into small balls; dip these in egg, sprinkle a few bread crumbs over them, and fry them in clari- fied fat till they are lightly and equally browned. Put them on a piece of clean blotting-paper, to drain the fat from them, and serve them piled high on the dish. Creole Rice Remove the veins and seeds from 2 large, ripe red peppers and chop them fine. Peel 1 large white onion and chop fine with i/4 of a pound of raw, lean ham. Melt in a saubepan 2 table- spoonfuls of butter, and when hot add the pep- pers, onion, and ham. Let them cook, stirring frequently, for ten minutes. Add 1 cupful of well washed and drained rice and cook five min- utes, then add 3 cupfuls of strong beef soup or broth. Cover and cook slowly for half an hour. Peel and cut small 4 or, 5 large tomatoes (or use about V3 of a can), add them to the rice with 1 teaspoonful of salt. Cover and cook slowly, watching that the rice does not stick to the bottom of the pan. When it is tender stir in with a fork 1 tablespoonful of butter and let it stand five minutes longer, then serve. Rice (East Indian Method) Wash 1/2 a pound of Patna rice in 2 or 3 waters. Drain it, and throw it into plenty of 664 VEGETABLES cold water, bring it slowly to the boil, keeping the saucepan uncovered, and let it boil gently until the grains are tender when pressed be- tween the thumb and finger, but are still quite distinct from one another. The rice will need to boil about % of an hour. Drain and dry it on a sieve before the fire. Take 2 pounds of undressed meat of any kind, or of rabbit, chicken, or fish, and cut this up into neat pieces convenient for serving. Slice 2 large onions, and fry them in butter till they are lightly browned without being at all burnt. Take them up, and fry the meat in the same fat, moving it about to keep it from burning. Mix 1 dessert- spoonful of curry paste, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, and 1 teaspoonful of ground rice very smoothly with 1| cupfuls of milk. Pourthis over the meat, and add % a pint of good stock made from bones, the fried onions, a little salt, and 1 clove of garlic, if this is liked, but the curry will be more generally acceptable if the garlic is omitted. Stir the sauce till it boils, and simmer all gently together till the meat is tender. The time required will vary with the nature of the meat. Put the pieces of meat on a dish. Stir into curry juice of | lemon. Pour the sauce over the meat, and serve. Send the rice to table on a separate dish. It should be ar- VEGETABLES 665 ranged that the curry and the rice shall be ready to serve at the same time. Time, alto- gether, about two hours. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Rice Fritters Boil 3 ounces of rice in a pint of new milk till it forms a stiff paste. Sweeten it, flavor with grated lemon rind, or powdered cinnamon, mace, or nutmeg, and beat it up with 2 table- spoonfuls of cream, 2 eggs, and 1 spoonful of brandy, if liked. Let the rice get cold, and form it into balls about as large as nuts ; dip these in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry quickly. When the balls are nicely browned, pile them on a white doily, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve hot. Send wine sauce to table with them. Or, boil 3 ounces of rice in a pint of milk to a stiff paste. Sweeten and flavor it, and mix with it 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 ounce of fresh butter, and 2 tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. Stir it over the fire till the eggs are set, then spread it on a dish to cool. Cut it into narrow strips the length and thickness of a finger, dip these into frying-batter, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Sift powdered sugar over them, and serve on a napkin. The batter may be made as follows : Melt 1 ounce of butter in a quarter of a pint of boiling milk, and cool it by adding an equal quantity of cold water. 43 666 VEGETABLES Stir in gradually 2 ounces of flour,, and beat the mixture till it is smooth. Add the well-whisked white of an egg, and use iminediately. Or, mix % of a pound of ground rice smoothly with a pint of milk, and add a pinch of salt and 3 table- spoonfuls of sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire till it leaves the saucepan with the spoon, then pour it out, and when cold add 2 table- spoonfuls of flour, 3 eggs, and a little flavor- ing, and beat the mixture till smooth. Fry it in spoonfuls in hot fat. When 'the fritters are nicely browned, drain them on a sieve, and serve on a neatly folded napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. Time to fry, six or seven minutes. Sufficient for five or six per- sons. Rice Souffle Wash 6 tablespoonfuls of rice, and throw it into quickly boiling water for five minutes. Drain it, and put it into a clean saucepan with 1 quart of milk, a pinch of salt, 4 tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar, 2 ounces of butter, and any flavoring that may be liked, such as orange, lemon, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, orange- flower water, rose-water, or any" liqueur. If the rice is not sweet enough to suit the palate, a little more sugar may be added, but it should be remembered that the less sugar used the lighter will be the souffle. Let the rice boil, put the VEGETABLES 667 lid on the saucepan and simmer very slowly until it is tender and has absorbed the milk. Let it cool a little, then add, one at a time, the well- whisked yolks of 6 eggs. Warm and butter a souffle-dish or tin which the preparation will half fill, or failing these, use a deep pie-dish or thin earthenware basin. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth. Mix them lightly with the rice, and bake the souffle at once after they are added. In order to ascertain whether the souffle is sufficiently baked, run a straw into the centre of it. If it is set throughout, it is done enough. It should be baked in a quick oven. Sift sugar over the top, tie a hot napkin round the tin, and serve immediately. The success of a souffle depends on the ingredients being well beaten, frothed, and mixed, on their being put into the dish ; on their being baked im- mediately afterwards ; on the sufficient tempera- ture of the oven; and on the rapid transfer of the souffle from the oven to the dining-room. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Macaroni This is a peculiar paste or dough, prepared from wheat flour, and manufactured into tubes or ribbons. It is an Italian invention, and though made by a simple process, has never been produced with such success in any other country. 668 VEGETABLES Macaroni Souffle Season a cupful of ricli cream sauce with 1 teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, a dash of cayenne or paprika, and a few drops of onion juice, taking care not to use too much of the latter. Add 1 cupful of chopped boiled maca- roni, heat to boiling point, and stir in the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. When the eggs have thickened, put the mixture away to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs very stiff and fold them into the cold macaroni, first beating it up lightly with a fork. Pour quickly into the buttered souffle dish, sprinkle lightly with fine bread crumbs, and bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Serve with mushroom or tomato sauce. Like all souffles it must be served the moment it is done. Macaroni Croquettes To 1 teacupful of boiled pipe macaroni add about 2 ounces of meat from a roast pheasant, partridge, hare, or any game, a slice of lean ham, a few mushrooms, or a truffle. Mince sepa- rately, and mix these ingredients together. Boil a breakfast-cupful of good white sauce until reduced to % of a pi'it; ^^^^ simmer in it for a few minutes 1 saltspoonful of shallot, chopped fine, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and 1 of pepper and nutmeg, mixed; lastly, stir in 2 or 3 yolks of eggs, and, when these VEGETABLES 669 have set, the juice of % lemon. This sauce may now be thrown over the mince, mixed with it, and left to get cold, when egg-shaped balls may be made in a tablespoon, and completed by the. hand. Goat with egg and bread crumbs and fry in hot fat from eight to ten minutes. Serve with fried parsley as a garnish. Macaroni Timbales Boil 8 ounces of macaroni in the usual way, and drain them well. Have ready minced the white meat of a cold roast fowl and a slice or two of lean ham; mix with 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan, and moisten with nearly % pint of thick cream and the beaten yolks and whites of 3 eggs. Cover a well-buttered mould with some of the macaroni, and mix the re- mainder, cut into neat lengths, with the meat, with which mixture fill the mould, and steam for three-quarters of an hour. A pudding paste is sometimes substituted for the lining of maca- roni, but in either case steaming is better than boiling. Serve, turned out of the mould, and with a good gravy. Macaroni with Kidneys Boil 4 ounces of macaroni, but in veal broth instead of water. Skin 4 fine fresh mutton kid- neys, fry them lightly in butter, lift them from the stewpan, and mince them finely. Make a 670 VEGETABLES gravy in the same pan, adding a dessertspoon- ful of brown flour, half a pint of rich stock, a couple of shallots, minced, and a pinch of cay- enne. Stew the minced kidneys in this gravy for ten minutes, when part of the macaroni, which should have been kept warm, may be mixed and tossed in the pan for a few minutes to absorb the gravy. Serve turned out on a hot dish, arrange the remainder of the macaroni on the top, and pour hot tomato sauce over. Time, one hour to prepare. Boiled Macaroni h IMtalienne Macaroni being a national article of food, the mode of cooking it is best understood in Italy. A better acquaintance with the Italian mode will, we hope, enable English cooks to convert a dish of macaroni into a wholesome and de- licious preparation, such as is met with on the Continent. Dishes of macaroni, with tomatoes, truffles, game, or fish, are ail good, and there is a great variety to be found. But one rule should be observed in the boiling of the maca- roni. The following recipe, if properly adhered to, will insure success : Put 5 or 6 ounces of the best Italian macaroni into plenty, of boiling water, not less than 3 pints, 1 saltspoonful of salt, and 1 of fine pepper; simmer for twenty minutes, and drain. After this first boiling, VEGETABLES 671 which should be observed in the preparation of all dishes, return the macaroni to the stewpan, with % a pint of gravy or broth, according to the richness required, and simmer until the macaroni has imbibed all the liquid. Have ready grated of ^^armesan and Gruyere cheese, mixed, % of a pound. Put half the quantity with the macaroni until nearly melted, then add the rest, and 1 ounce of butter. Move the con- tents of the pan round in one direction until the cheese has been well incorporated and dissolved in the macaroni. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve. In this way niacaroni is eaten at most of the best tables ^n Leghorn and Florence. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Macaroni with Chestnuts Roast a dozen fine chestnuts in their shells, peel and pound them to a paste. Season with a small teaspoonful of salt, and put them with 8 ounces of macaroni, previously boiled and drained, according to the recipe given for boil- ing macaroni, into a stewpan : add 3 ounces of butter and a large onion, uncut. Shake the whole well together, and stir round in the pan for ten or twelve minutes. If dry, pour in L tablespoonful of milk, and mix again until hot, when remove the onion, and dish the macaroni. 672 VEGETABLES Brown lightly in the oven, or before the fire, well covered- with equal quantities of grated Parmesan and fine bread crumbs. Butter should be run over the top. Baked Macaroni Boil macaroni as for the ^Italian method; drain ; add 1 pint of hot milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and stir together, adding a little grated Parmesan. Turn this mixture into a buttered round agate baking-dish. Put little pieces of butter on top, and sprinkle over it Parmesan or other grated cheese. Bake thirty minutes and serve in dish in which it is baked, by placing it in a baking-disn form. Macaroni Nudels Nudel paste, like Italian macaroni, to which it is nearly allied, is a " home-made " prepa- ration of eggs and flour, useful in a variety of ways, and equally applicable to sweet and sav- ory dishes. It is made thus : Take as many eggs as will be required for the quantity of paste to be made, but use only the whites of eggs, if preferred quite white. "Work in as much flour to 2 well-beaten eggs as wUl make a stiff dough, knead until smooth, and roll out, first dividing the mass into six parts, and each part into a round ball, on a pasteboard kept well dredged with flour. A perfectly straight roll- t VEGETABLES 673 ing-pin is one of the requisites to perfect nudel- making. The desired thinness to which the paste is to be rolled may be best illustrated by the saying, ' ' To arrive at the perfection of nudel-rolling is to be able tb read through the paste." Having accomplished this, dry each cake on a napkin — a few minutes will do this — commence with the first rolled cake by cutting it into equal halves and quarters. Lay one quarter on the other, make the cut edges meet equally, and with a sharp knife cut through in as thread-like a manner as possible, then dry; by scattering them they will separate; or the paste roUed, as before indicated, is cut with a tin-cutter into stars, rings, etc, which may be stamped out, and piled one cake on the other; they will separate on being thrown into boiling soup. Boil same as macaroni. Nudels Boiled in Milk Take % of a pound of freshly made nudels cut very fine and dried. Dissolve a little butter in a stewpan, put in the nudels, and shake the pan over the fire until they are well browned. Pour over them as flfuch good milk as will cover them well, and let them simmer gently until they are quite soft. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar and 3 well-beaten eggs, steam a few minutes longer, and serve as hot as possible. Time to 674 VEGETABLES boil the nudels, until soft, from ten to fifteen minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Macaroni may also be prepared in this fashion. Buttered Nudels Throw the nudels into boiling water, and let them boil for three minutes. Take them up with a strainer, put them on a hot dish; melt some fresh butter in a stewpan; sprinkle a large handful of bread crumbs in it, and let them remain until they are lightly browned, then put them upon the nudels. Clarify a lit- tle more butter, if the first portion was dried up in browning the crumbs, and pour it over the dish ; serve very hot. Time, ten minutes to boil the nudels. Nudels with Parmesan, or au Gratin Make half a pound of flour into nudel paste, as directed in the last recipe. Cut it into strips, and boil these for ten minutes in 3 pints of water, slightly salted. Take them out, drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with 1 pint of milk or gravy, 1 ounce of butter, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Simmer gently until all the liquid has been ab- sorbed, then add another quarter of a pint of either cream or gravy, % of a pound of grated Farmesan, and another ounce of butter; shake VEGETABLES 675 the pan over the fire, until the cheese is melted. Pile the mixture high in a buttered dish, sprinkle over it 1 ounce of grated Parmesan, 1 tablespoonful of finely grated bread crumbs, and the yolk of 1 hard-boiled egg passed through a sieve and powdered. Place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, or hold a red-hot iron shovel over it until it is lightly colored, and serve as hot as possible. Time, altogether, an hour and a quarter. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Fritters of Neudel Make a pound of flour into nudel pastry, as already directed. Cut it into thin strips ; boil one pint and a half of cream or new milk in a saucepan. Dissolve in it 6 ounces of fresh but- ter, add 1/4 of a pound of loaf sugar which has been well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh lemon, and a pinch of salt. Drop the pastry into the boiling liquid, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour, until it has become a stiff paste. Take it from the fire, and when it is cool, stir briskly in with it the well-beaten yolks of 6 eggs. Spread it out on a large but- ^ tered baking-tin, about a quarter of an inch thick, and bake in a moderate oven; when brightly colored, take it out, divide it in halves, put one-half upon a large flat dish, spread some jam thickly over, place the other half upon, it, 676 VEGETABLES pressing it lightly with the fingers, and when quite cold, stamp it in small shapes with an ordinary pastry-cutter. Serve neatly arranged on a napkin. These cakes should be prepared the day they are wanted for use, as they do not improve with keeping. Time to bake, twentv minutes. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Vermicelli Vermicelli is a preparation of wheaten flour, of a substance similar to macaroni, the differ- ence between them being that the latter is made in larger tubes. It is fh the form of long threads, and derives its name from its worm- like appearance, as vermicelli means little worms. It is of Italian origin, and with maca- roni forms the principal food of the people in Italy. It is used amongst us in soups and broths, and for making puddings, «tc. Vermjcelii with Boiled Chicken Truss a tender chicken for boiling, put it into a stewpan with 2 pounds of the cushion of bacon into which 3 or 4 cloves have been stuck. Add a small piece of white roux, or, failing this, half an ounce of butter mixed smoothly with flour, pour over it as much white stock as will cover it, and let all stew gently together for three- quarters of a6 hour. Throw into the stock 2 ounces of vermicelli, and boil it till tender. VEGgrAM.ES 677 Take up the fowl and bacon, and place them in separate dishes. Skim the stock, and pour it with the vermicelli over the fowl. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. Spaghetti is the name given to second or me- dium-sized tubing. In their order come maca- roni, coarse ; spaghetti, medium, and vermicelli, very fine. Spaghetti can be prepared by any form given in recipes. Vermicelli ^ la Reine Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water, drain it, and throw it into some rich consomme well seasoned. When done, a short time before serving, thicken it with the yolks of 8 eggs mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done, which would be the case if it re- mained on the corner of the stove. Vermicelli with Milk Boil 1 quart of milk, and drop lightly into it 6 ounces of vermicelli which has been blanched in boiling water to free it from all impurities. Simmer gently, and stir frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. When tender sweeten it and send it to table. Time to boil the vermicelli, fifteen to twenty-five minutes, ac- cording to quality. 678 VEGETABLES Oyster Plant ^ Oyster plant, which is the root of a'iplant sometimes called salsify and " purple goat's beard, ' ' is excellent when cooked. It is not so generally known as it deserves to be. It may be boiled and served with maitre d 'hotel, Dutch, onion, or Italian sauce. To prepare the roots for dressing, cut off the ends of each, and scrape off the outer rind till the flesh is reached, which somewhat resembles the parsnip in color and appearance. Rub them with lemon juice or vinegar, and throw them into cold water until they are to be boiled. They will be better for lying in it for an hour or two. Boil in salted water until tender ; drain and serve with sauce. Fried Oyster Plant Make a batter as follows : Take 6 spoonfuls of flour, a small pinch of salt, 1 spoonful of olive-oil, and beat the whole with milk enough to make it into batter, but do not make it too liquid. Then beat the whites of 2 eggs, and when well beaten pour them into the batter, which you must keep stirring gently. Next put the vegetables, that are done beforehand and well drained in a cloth, into the batter; take them out again one by one, and throw them into hot fat. When fried of a fine color and crisp, serve to table with fried parsle'y in the centre of the dish, and a little salt sprinkled over. VEGETABLES . 679 Creamed Oyster Plant tstlie roots till tender, or take the rem- nants >bf dressed salsify, and divide them into inch lengths. Dissolve a slice of butter in a saucepan, and work into this as much flour as it will take. When the paste is quite smooth, and before it is at all colored, moisten with milk or cream, season with salt and cayenne, and stir it over the fire till it coats the spoon. Put in the slices of salsify, let them get hot, and dish in a pyramid form on a hot dish. Add a spoon- ful of lemon juice to the sauce, pour it over the roots, and garnish with fried sippets. Time al- together, one hour and a half. Broiled Mushrooms Select agarics or any good-sized mushrooms ; wash and remove the scales. Dry them on a clean towel, put them in a buttered double broiler, and broil for a few minutes on both sides. Have ready slices of freshly made, well-but- tered toast. Place the mushrooms on the toast, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put bits of butter on each, stand in the oven just long enough to melt the butter, and serve. A little crisp broiled bacon gives a good flavor. Put this crisped bacon on the slices of toast, and put the mushrooms on the top. 680 . VEGETABLES Mushroom-and-Beefsteak Pie Chop 1 quart of mushrooms or cut them iu small pieces, season with salt and pepper, and add 1 pound of round steak chopped through the meat chopper, with a little onion run through the chopper at the same time. Add a little chopped suet or marrow, or a tablespoon- ful of butter. Mix all thoroughly, and stew slowly until tender with just enough water or good stock to keep it moist, keeping it closely covered. Make a good crust as for any meat pie, line a buttered baking-dish. Fill with the mushrooms and meat, season more if necessary, and have enough liquor to make a little gravy. Cover with a top crust, cut slashes in the top, and lay bits of butter over and bake in a rather hot oven until the crust is done and nicely browned. Serve at once in the dish in which it is baked. Cottager's Pie Cut fresh mushrooms in small pieces, sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Cut thin slices of nice bacon in small pieces, put them in the bot- tom of a rather shallow baking-dish; on these put a layer of the mushrooms, and over these a layer of finely mashed and well-seasoned pota- toes. Fill the dish in this way with a layer of VEGETABLES 681 mashed potatoes on top. Put bits of butter on top, cover, and bake half an hour in a moder- ately hot /en. When nearly done remove the cover and brown the top. This makes a good dish to serve at lunch or for an informal supper, where no meat is to be served, or with cold meat, followed by a salad and dessert and coffee. A hot vegetable, like stewed tomatoes or creamed peas, may accom- pany it. Stewed Button Mushrooms Trim and rub clean with a cloth half a pint of large button mushrooms. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, shake over the fire until melted. Put in the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, and a little mace. Simmer until tender, and serve at once on a hot dish with nice crisp toast. Or when the mushrooms are tender, add half a cupful of rich cream, cook for a few minutes, until thoroughly heated and blended, and serve on squares or rounds of buttered toast with boiled or scrambled eggs. Creamed Mushrooms Trim and rub off a half pint of button mush- rooms. Eub together 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter and 1 of flour ; cook this in a saucepan tmtil smooth, but not colored ; put in the mushrooms, 44 682 VEGETABLES add half a teaspoonful of salt, 14 teaspoonful of white pepper, and % a teaspoonful of pow- dered sugar, 14 a teaspoonful of very finely minced parsley. Cook ten minutes, stirring often. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs, add 14 cupful of cream, and add gradually to the mushrooms, stirring all the time. Cook two minutes and serve on a hot platter garmshed with small po- tato croquettes, or on hot rounds of buttered toast. Mushroom Ragout Put in a stewpan 3 cupfuls of good stock, either chicken or brown stock as desired; add 1 spoonful of vinegar, 1 spoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 small onions sliced thin. Add salt and paprika, a little mace or nutmeg. Bring to a boil and put in 1 pint of well-cl©aned mushrooms. Cook very slowly until the mush- rooms are tender—no longer; beat the yolks of 2 eggs, mix it with a little milk or some of the broth of the ragout. Pour it in gradually, stirring quickly, and remove from the fire and serve. It must not boil after the eggs are added. Escalloped Mushrooms Prepare either small button mushrooms, or if large ones slice them and cook in a covered saucepan with water enough to barely cover ; a little vinegar added to the water will hasten the ^ VEGETABLES 683 cookiiig. When they have simmered until ten- der, add to a pint of mushrooms 1 pint of milk and bring to a boil. Season well with salt and pepper. Butter a baking-dish, and put a layer of cracker crumbs on the bottom ; put in a layer of the mushrooms, with bits of butter scattered over, then another layer of crumbs and mush- room, finishing with crumbs on the top. Pour over all the liquor and milk in which the mush- rooms were cooked, put bits of butter on the top and dust with salt and pepper, and bake until the top is well browned. Serve in the sanie dish. Parisienne potatoes fried a golden brown may acconipany the dish. Heap the balls in a mound on a pretty platter and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Mushrooms with Bacon Fry a few slices of nice bacon, if well-streaked with lean so much the better. When almost done ttlm into them 1 dozen or more good-sized mushrooms, that have been cleaned in the usual way. Fry very slowly until tender. The mushrooms will absorb nearly all the bacon fat, and make a nice breakfast relish. Baked Mushrooms Peel the tops of 20 good-sized mushrooms. Cut off a portion of the stalks, wipe the re- 684 VEGETABLES maining portion with salt on a flannel cloth. Put them in a baking-dish, pour a little melted butter over them, season with salt and white pepper, and 2 tablespoonfuls of madeira wine ; cover and bake iu a rather slow oven twenty to thirty minutes. As soon as done pile the mushrooms on a hot dish, and serve quickly with the sauce poured around them. Mushroom Catsup Gather large flap mushrooms for this purpose in the month of September. If the weather be showery, wait until the mushrooms have had a few hours of sunshine, for no water should enter into the composition of catsup. Break into an earthenware pan as many mushrooms as it will hold. Let them be clean, and quite free from grit or dirt, and that portion of the stem should be removed to which the soil adheres. Sprinkle salt among them, and put a layer over the top (from 6 to 8 ounces will be enough for a peck of mushrooms). Cover them for two days, occa- sionally stirring them during the time, then strain through a sieve without giving the mush- rooms any pressure. To each quart of the juice so gained allow three blades of mace, i/^ an ounce of black peppercorns, the same of sliced ginger, with half the quantity of allspice, a few cloves, and more salt if required. Boil the juice VEGETABLES 685 for fifteen minutes, uncovered, and before put- ting in the spice ; add the spice, and boil twenty minutes more. Fill bottles when quite cold. Wax the corks to exclude the air. Pickled Mushrooms Select small, sound pasture mushrooms, as nearly uniform in size as possible. Let them stand for half an hour in cold water, then drain, cut off the stalks and rub gently with a soft moist flannel dipped in salt to remove the outer skin. Bring to a boil sufficient vinegar to cover the amount of mushrooms, adding to each quart of vinegar 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, half a grated nutmeg, a blade or two of mace, and a few peppercorns. Put in the mushrooms and simmer very gently for ten minutes, then pour them into small jars with the spices evenly distributed through them. Let them stand for a day, then cover and screw on the caps of the jars. Boiled Parsnips Wash and scrape the parsnips, and carefully remove any blemishes there may be about them. ,Cut them into quarters, and ^ihrow them into a saucepan of boiling water, slightly salted. Let them boil quickly, until they are sufficiently ten- der of skin to pierce, them easily, then drain and send to table as quickly as possible. 686 VEGETABLES Parsnips Browned under Roast Meat Boil the parsnips until tender, according to the directions given above. Drain well, sprinkle si little salt and pepper over them, put them m the dripping-pan under the joint they are to accompany, and let them remain until they are nicely browned. Send them to table in a dish by themselves, with two or three round the meat as a garnish. Fried Parsnips BoU 4 or 5 large parsnips. Drain them well, and cut them either into rounds or long slices, a quarter of an inch thick. Dip them into frying batter, and fry them in hot lard or dripping until they are lightly browned on both sides. Drain well, and serve very hot, as an accom- paniment to roasted joints or fowls. Make bat- ter same as for oyster plant. Boiled String Beans Only the ends and stalks require to be taken off when the beans are very young, and no mode of cooking can make very old ones eatable. Put them, as they are prepared, into cold water. They are cut, according to taste, lengthwise into_^ thin strips or obliquely into a lozenge form. The strings shpuld be drawn off with the tops and stalks when they are come to their proper growth. Put them into a large saucepan of VEGETABLES 687 boiling water, slightly salted; allow the steam to escape, and keep boiling very fast until ten- der. Time, fifteen minutes if young; twenty to twenty-five minutes if old. Serve with butter or a cream sauce. String Beans with Gravy Dissolve four ounces of butter in a pan, and stir into it 3 ounces of flour till it becomes brown and quite smooth. Mix a little gravy and sea- son with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Take any quantity of this ; and simmer in it the beans, previously boiled, for twenty minutes. Allow 1 quart, for six or seven persons. The method applied to string beans can also be applied to butter beans and lima beans. Beans, French (a la Maitre d'Hdtel) Prepare and boil 1 pound of beans in the usual manner; see that they are well drained from the water. Keep them hot, and when dry put them into a stewpan with 2 ounces of melted butter, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Shake the pan over a brisk fire, mix well, and serve hot in eight minutes. Sufficient for four persons. String Beans with Cream Sauce Boil beans (see Boiled String Beans), drain, and return to saucepan. Eub a tablespoonful 688 VEGETABLES of butter and flour to a paste cream by gradu- ally adding 1/2 pi^it of cream or milk. Season with salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg, also paprika or red pepper. Pour over beans and bring to a boil, then serve. Haricot (Lima) Beans (a la Maitre d'Hdtel) For the sake of variety haricot beans may, if liked, be cooked as follows : Put 2 quarts of water into a stewpan, with half a teaspoonful of salt. When boiling, throw into it 1 pint of freshly shelled beans, and let them simmer gently until soft. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter^ a little pepper and salt, a dessertspoonful of scalded and chopped parsley, and a tablespoon- ful of lemon juice. Shake the saucepan ovei the fire till thej^ are well mixed, and serve as hot as possible. Time, two hours or more. Boiled Haricot (Small Dried Lima) Beans Wash and pick the beans, and soak them in cold water overnight. Drain thenar, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water ; add a pinch of salt, and let them simmer gently until tender. Pour the water from them, let them stand by the fire, shaking them once or twice to assist their drying, then add a small piece of butter, and a little pepper and salt, and VEGETABLES 689 serve as hot as possible. Time, two hours to boil. Sufficient, one pint for three or four per- sons. Haricot Beans with Onions Wash 1 pint of beans in two or three waters, pick out any discolored ones that there may be, and leave them to soak in plenty of cold water until the next day. Drain them, and boil them in fresh water until they are tender, but un- broken. Drain them once more, and put them on a dish in the oven to keep warm. Take 3 ounces of onions, which have been three-parts boiled and chopped small, fry these in 2 ounces of butter, and, whilst frying, mix with them the boiled beans. Stir them about with a fork, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy, rather highly seasoned. This is an ex- cellent accompaniment to roast meat. Time, an hour and a half to boil the beans. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lima Beans h la Poulette Boil 1 quart of young beans over a quick fire until nearly done ; then put them into a stew- pan with a little sugar, half a pint of stock, cream or milk, and a tablespoonful of butter, pepper and salt at discretion. Before begin- ning to stew see that the beans are well drained from the water in which they were boiled. Stew until half the liquor is absorbed, and just as they 690 VEGETABLES are on the point of simmering beat up the yolk of an egg with a quarter of a pint of cream, and add it to them. Time, ten minutes to boil; fifteen to stew. Sufficient for five or six per- sons. Mashed Beans This is the only way in which old beans may be cooked to advantage. They should be first boiled in the ordinary way fully half an hour, by which time the skins will have burst, and they may be easily removed. Mash them with the back of a wooden spoon until quite smooth, then put them back into the stewpan with a little sugar, butter, pepper, and salt. Add a cupful of whipped cream — or 2 eggs well beaten — whip the whole until very light ; place in baking- dish and brown in quick oven ; serve in pudding form. Fricasseed Beans Take one pint of either fresh or dry white kidney beans. Eemove the skins ; and in order to do this, the beans, if dry, must be soaked in water for ten or twelve hours, and afterwards boiled until tender, when the skins will slip off. If fresh, they must be put into scalding water for a minute, and the skins peeled off. Put the beans into a saucepan, add as much good veal stock as will cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoqnful of pepper, the VEGETABLES 69J eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a large bunch of parsley, a small one of thyme, and a piece of fresh butter, rolled in flour. Simmer gently f Or fifteen minutes ; then take out the herbs, and put into the sauce a glass of sherry. Let it boil, then draw it from the fire a minute to cool, and stir into it the yolks of 2 eggs, mixed with half a cupful of thick creani and the strained juice of half a lemon. Serve on a hot dish, and gar- nish with French beans, pickled. Time, half an hour to stew the beans after the skins have been taken off. Sufficient for three or four persons. Polenta Soak 1 pint dried beans overnight. Put to boil in cold salted water; when cooked drain, and press through a fine colander into a sauce- pan; add 1% tablespoonfuls molasses, 1 tablie- spoonful butter, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, a dash of cayenne, a dash or two of ground mustard, beating continuously, and last add 1 tablespoonful of yinegar. Serve in vegetable dish very hot. Cold polenta can be utilized by cutting in slices % inch thick, or % inch cubes ; dip in egg, then bread or cracker crumbs, fry in boiling fat, drain, and serve. Red Kidney Beans (Swedish Method) Put 1 quart of beans into cold water ; add 1 teaspoonful salt and cook until tender. Then 692 VEGETABLES add 2 tablespoonfuls of syrup, and thicken with 1 tablespoonful of potato flour, or corn starch diluted in water. Stir over the fire until the liquid is of a creamy consistency, and serve. These are also palatable when cold. Boston Baked Beans See Pork and Beans. Curried Lentils Soak a half pint of red lentils in water for three or four hours. Drain off the water. Put in a saucepan 1 ounce of butter and 1 onion sliced thin; cook until a nice brown; add the lentils and 1 pint of boiling water, and simmer one hour; then add the juice of I/2 a lemon, 1 dessertspoonful of curry powder, salt, and pep- per, cook ten. minutes longer, and serve with boiled rice. Peas A no • less famous woman than Madame Maintenon of the court of Louis XIV. is said to have written concerning peas: " The impa- tience to eat them, the pleasure to have eaten them, and the delight to eat them again, are the three points our princes talk about. ' ' Like all green vegetables peas should be as fresh from the vines as possible; " an hour from the vines to the table " is the time one au- VEGETABLES 693 thority gives. Since this is possible only when one has a kitchen garden to draw from during the season, the best one can do is to take all pos- sible care to preserve the original freshness and flavor. Green peas should never be washed after shelling as many cooks do. There is no more need for washing than for washing a banana after peeling, for the pea is perfectly protected by the pod from any dust or migra- tory germ. Wash the pods thoroughly before shelling, however. A few - of the pods may then be boiled in with the peas to add to the flavor. When peas have been too long picked and the pods are at all withered they may be soaked for an hour in cold water, and shelled immedi- ately before cooking. They should be put into boiling water enough to cover, and kept boiling steadily, uncovered, to retain their color. When peas are full grown a little sugar added while boiling frequently improves the flavor. French and English cooks frequently add a sprig of mint to the peas while cooking, epi- cures affirming that there is a natural affinity between the two. In using canned peas the mistake should not be made of cooking them in the water in which they were canned. It should always be drained off and the peas cooked in fresh boiling water. 694 VEGETABLES To boil young peas, cook without salt until tender, about fifteen minutes ; then add salt and cook five minutes longer; drain and serve. To Boil Green Peas Green peas, when gathered young, shelled just before they are cooked, and dressed properly, are amongst the most delicious of vegetables. If they are very unequal in size, they should be shaken through a coarse sieve, and the smaller ones put into the water ten minutes after the large ones. Throw them into plenty of fast- boiling water, to which a tablespoonful of salt has been added, and keep the pan uncovered until the peas are tender. Taste them to ascer- tain when they are sufficiently cooked. Drain the water from them. Put them into a clean pan with a slice of butter, a little salt, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and toss them over the fire a minute or two, then serve. A sprig of mint is often boiled with peas ; this is by some considered an improvement, and by others quite the reverse. Great care should be taken not to put much soda with peas. • If the water is very hard, a tiny piece may be put in, but too much would quickly reduce them to a pulp. Time, ac- cording to the age and size : young green peas, fifteen or twenty minutes. VEGETABLES 595 A French Mode of Cooking Green Peas Melt one ounce of fresh, butter in a saucepan. When it is dissolved without being the least colored, throw in a quart of peas. Shake them over the fire for a minute or two, then pour over them as mucb boiling water or weak stock as will barely cover them; add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, the heart of a lettuce finely sbred, 3 young. onions, and a small sprig of parsley. Simmer gently until the peas are tender. Take the saucepan from the fire for a minute, and in order to thicken the sauce stir in the well-beaten yolk^ of 3 eggs. The peas must not boil up after the eggs are added. Serve the peas on a hot dish with the sauce poured over them. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Stewed Green Peas Put the shelled peas into a stewpan, with half a dozen young onions, 2 cabbage-lettuces cut into small pieces, a handful of parsley, a teaiapoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew gently over a slow fire for about half an 696 VEGETABLES hour. If the lettuces and peas do not yield suf- ficient water a tablespoonful may be added, but if they are simmered gently this will in all prob- ability be unnecessary. Shake the stewpan" oc- casionally, that all may be equally cooked. Mix 2 ounces of butter smoothly -with a dessertspoon- ful of fiour, and when the peas are tender put the mixture into the saucepan with them. Shake them over the fire for three or four min- utes until the butter is melted, then turn them upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. If pre- ferred, 1 egg beaten up with 1 tablespoonful of water may be substituted for the butter. Green Peas a la Crfeme Boil a pint of newly shelled, fresh young peas in the usual way. Drain them in a colander until quite dry. Mix an ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of flour smoothly together, over the fire ; add a quarter of a pint of good, sweet cream ; when it boils, put in the peas for two or three minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, half an hour, altogether. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pur6e of Peas Boil peas as per previous recipe ; when ten- der, drain and dredge through a sieve; melt 1 tablespoonful of butter; sift in 1 tablespoonful of flour, stir in and season with salt and pepper. VEGETABLES 697 Stir in % cupful of % milk and % cream, and beat until very light. Baked Pur6e The above puree can be put into a baking- dish and served in baking-dish form and sent to the table. Stewed Peas in Turnip Cups Select small or medium-sized turnips; pare and cook them in slightly salted water until tender, then with a spoon or vegetable scoop hollow out the centre, leaving a wall half an inch or more in thickness. Put these in a shallow baking-dish or pie-plate to keep hot, with a bit of butter and pepper in the bottom of each cup. While these are cooking have also 1 pint of shelled fresh peas, pour over them sufficient boiling water to cover and boil until tender — from twenty to thirty minutes. If the peas are not very sweet, add 1 teaspoonful of sugar while boiling. Let the water evaporate until the peas are nearly dry. When done, season with salt and pepper, add 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed smooth with 1 rounded teaspoonful of flour and 2 tablespoonf uls of cream ; stir until it thickens, and fill the turnip ciips. Have a hot platter ready, and when ready to serve them lift the cups carefully on to the platter with a spatula, taking care that they 45 698 VEGETABLES are not broken. Garnish with sprigs of pars- ley, and serve. Canned peas may be used instead of the fresh ones. Corn Green corn should not be husked until shortly before cooking. If it is to be kept from one day to another it should be put in the refrigerator or in some cool place, bijt to be at its best it should be picked just before it is to be used. Remove the husks and carefully take off all the silk. Put the ears in rapidly boiling water and boil five minutes. Remove at once from the water and serve on a napkin, throwing the corners ovei;, to prevent the escape of steam. Corn must never stand in the water after it is done; it becomes watery and discolored and loses its flavor. It may, however, be kept hot for a time by taking it out of the water in which it was boiled, putting it in a pan that will allow it to lie flat, and covering it with hot milk and keeping it hot in the oven or on the back of the range. Escailoped Corn Butter a baking-dish and put in a layer of cracker crumbs, then a layer of canned com, with salt and bits of butter; alternate the crackers and corn to the top of the dish, finish- ing with crackers. Pour in enough milk to VEGETABLES 699 come to the top; bake three-quarters of an hour. Corn Pudding To 1 pint of corn (if canned press it through a colander; if fresh, cut very fine from the ear) add 2 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of flour, butter (melted) the size of an egg, 1 pint of milk, salt and sugar so as to be neither salt nor sweet in excess, and a little pepper. Bake in a greased dish until the custard is set or the handle of a silver spoon will come out clean. Serve with broiled chops or steaks or with roast lamb. Corn Fritters One dozen ears of sweet corn grated, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Bake in small cake:! on griddle with plenty of butter. Serve hot. Succotash Wash 1 pint shelled (green) lima beans, par- boil about ten minutes, pour off water, add hot water, and boil about fifteen minutes longer. Cut com from 6 or 8 good-sized ears and add to the beans. Boil one-half hour or until ten- der. Add salt, pepper, and about 2 tablespoon- fuls butter. Care must be taken to prevent the mixture from burning. Scrape the milk from the cob after having cut the corn. 700 VEGETABLES Green Corn Souffle Score lengthwise and cut from the cob enough tender green corn to make 1 cupful of pulp. Add to this 1 cupful of rich cream or milk with 1 tablespoonful of butter. Season well with salt and white pepper. Add the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, and cook in a double boiler until creamy, stirring all the while. Let the mixture cool and stir in lightly the stiffly beaten whites of 4 eggs, turn into a buttered dish and bake twenty minutes in a rather hot oven. Roasting Ears A good way to boil roasting ears is to put on a pot of boiling water and " break " it with a little soda, skim the water, and put in another vessel in order to get all the lime out of it. Add 1 teaspoonful of granulated sugar, several pinches of salt, and, when the water comes to a boil, put in the roasting ears, cover tightly, and boil furiously till thoroughly heated through — from fifteen to twenty minutes — and serve hot. Creamed Corn Cut the corn from the cob; put it into a sauce- pan, covering it with milk. Put in one table- spoonful of sugar, and let it boil slowly for ten minutes; add an even teaspoonful of salt, of white pepper one-quarter teaspoonful ; and add it to the dish with 1 tablespoonful of butter VEGETABLES 70J mixed with one-half tablespoonful of flour. Cook for a few minutes; stirring constantly. If not seasoned sufficiently the taste may be regulated by adding salt. Dried corn soaked overnight may be treated in the above manner. Green Corn Omelet 4 good-sized ears of corn; 5 eggs; 2 table- spoonfuls cream; 14 teaspoonful salt; a little pepper; 1 tablespoonful butter. Score lengthwise and scrape out the pulp of the corn. Beat the eggs, yolks and whites sep- arately. Mix well together the corn, cream, yolks of eggs, and the seasoning, and give them a brisk beating for a minute or two. Put the butter in the omelet pan and while it is heating, add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs to the other ingredients, folding them in lightly; pour it into the hot butter and cook as any omelet, raising the centre with a broad knife and tip- ping the pan to let all the uncooked part reach the hot pan. As soon as nicely browned and evenly cooked, fold over, turn out on a hot plat- ter, and serve at once. Fried Corn Cut the corn carefully from 6 ears of nice sweet corn. Do not score, and be careful not to cut any of the cob with the corn, but have each grain separate. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter 702 VEGETABLES in a feying-pan; put in the corn and fry until a nice brown, stirring often. Draw the pan away from the hot fire, add half a cupful of hot cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve at once in a hot dish. Nice for breakfast or lunch. Old-Fashioned Roasted Corn •Strip all the husks from the ears except the last layer. Make a clean place in front of a wood fire in the ashes ; lay the corn on the ashes and turn as fast as one side is done until roasted on all sides. Serve with salt and pepper. It can also be roasted over hot coals on a wire broiler or gridiron, by watching carefully and turning often so that it does not burn. If burned it will be bitter. Broiled Green Corn Split the cobs ; brush with melted butter and lay on a broiler. Broil for eight minutes until cooked; dust with salt; arrange in napkin, and serve. Beets In cutting off the tops of the beets leave an inch or two of the stems, and wash thoroughly, but do not bruise the skins or the juice will be extracted in boiling, and both the color and the sweetness will be lost. Boil until tender, throw them into cold water for a few minutes, and the skins will rub off easily. ^ VEGETABLES 703 Young beets are served either whole or sliced with melted butter poured over them. Shake over salt and pepper, and serve hot. Or use them either in slices or whole ; if small, for garnishing and for salads. Young Ijeets wiU cook in an hour or less, but old ones will often require two hours. Beet Greens with Young Beets Select young beets when they are not larger than an English walnut; the tops will then be just the right age to be tender and sweet. Wash thoroughly iu several waters and examine each leaf for lurking worms. If one water through which it is passed is strongly salted, it will cause his wormship to leave the leaf at once. Be careful not to break the tender skin of the beet, or the rich red juice will be lost in cooking. Put them m enough slightly salted boiling water to well cover them and boil quickly until tender; it should require from thirty to forty- five minutes. Take them out of the kettle when done and plunge the beets only, not the tops, into very cold water, and the skins will very readily rub off with the fingers. Drain the greens and cut them up, not too fine; add a plenty of melted butter, a tablespoonful of vin- egar or lemon juice, and pepper and salt. Mix lightly with a silver fork, arrange them on a 704 VEGETABLES shallow, hot dish or platter, cut the beets in halves and lay them in a border around the greens. To make the dish more ornamental the beets may be alternated with slices of hard- boiled egg, and a mayonnaise or boiled dressing passed with or poured over it. Creamed Beets Use the small white beets; cook in boiling water until tender ; put them in cold water and rub off the skins; put them in a saucepan and pour over them a rich cream sauce; let them heat thoroughly, and serve in a hot dish. Boiled Beets This root is excellent as a salad, and, as a garnish for other salads, it is very important on account of its beautiful bright color. In cleansing it before boiling, take care not to I break the skin, or it will lose its color and be- come sickly-looking. Remove it from the sauce- pan carefully, peel and trim nicely. Serve, cut in slices, with melted butter in a tureen. Large beets take from two to three hours to boil. Pickled Beets Boil half an ounce of peppercorns, cloves, mace, and ginger, in a pint of vinegar, add an- other pint when cold. Take 6 beetroots, after they have been well cleansed, and boil them gently for two hours. When cold, peel, slice, VEGETABLES 705 and put into a jar with the cold vinegar and spice. It is fit for use at once. Fried Egg-Plant Wipe the egg-plant, cut in i/4-inch slices, soak in salted cold water one hour. Dip each slice in beaten egg and crumbs and fry until the in- side is very soft and the outside brown. Baked Egg-Plant Remove the stalk but not the skin, wash, cut into halves, put on in boiling water and boil till partly tender (about one-half hour), drain, cut into small pieces, and season with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter. Place in baking-dish with thick layer of bread crumbs and more butter. Bake till brown in a quick oven and serve in the same dish. Egg-Plant Puffs or Fritters Pare, cut in pieces, soak in ,cold water, and boil until tender. Drain, press through a col- ander. Make the regulation fritter batter, sea- son the egg-plant and beat it into the batter. Drop in spoonfuls into boiling fat ; cook golden brown. Drain, and serve with parsley garni- ture. Egg-Plant Stuffed with Nuts Boil the plant until tender, scoop out the pulp ; chop fine 1 cupful hickory or other nuts ; add 1 706 VEGETABLES tablespoonful butter, season with salt and pep- per; add 1 tablespoonful bread crumbs and 2 eggs well beaten. Fill shell with mixture, and bake one hour. To Dress Celery Cut off the end of the root, leaving the white part; wash it very carefully, trim away all the decayed leaves and outer stalks, and if the root be very thick, split it into quarters. Send it to table in a celery glass half filled with cold water. Curl the top leaves by drawing the point of a skewer through them, dividing them into strips about 5 inches from the top. Boiled Celery Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with a little salt in it. Wash the celery carefully. Cut off the outer leaves, make the stalks even, and lay them in small bunches. Throw these into the water, and let them boil gently until tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. When done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which has been dipped in the liquid. Pour over them a little good white sauce, and serve. Time: young celery, three-quarterfe of an hour; old, one hour and a half. Stewed Celery a la Crfeme Wash very clean 2 heads of celery, trim them neatly, cutting off the outer stalks, the leaves, VEGETABLES 707 and the tops; cut in desired lengths, and boil them in salt and water until tender. Drain them and put them in a dish. Have ready in another saucepan a breakfast-cupful of good cream. Let it boil, with a piece of butter rolled in flbur, till it is thick and smooth ; then pour it over the cel- ery, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and serve. Time to boil the celery, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour and a half. Sufficient for four persons. > To Fry Celery Cold boiled celery will answer for this pur- p(^e. Split 3 or 4 heads, dip the pieces into clarified butter, and fry them until they are lightly browned; lay them on some blotting- paper for a minute to drain off the fat, and pile them like sugar biscuits on a napkin. Garnish the dish prettily with parsley. They may be dipped in batter before frying, and served with white sauce, or with good brown sauce made with the gravy in which they were boiled. Time to fry, ten minutes. Carrots h la Flamande Take young carrots (which alone are suitable) , wash them well, cut off the heads and points, and place them in boiling water for five min- utes. Take them out, drain, rub off the skin with" a coarse cloth, cut them into very thin 708 VEGETABLES slices or star shapes, and put them into a sauce- pan with a cupful of water, a little salt and pep- per, and a piece of butter the size of a small egg. Cover them closely, and simmer gently for twenty minutes, shaking the pan occasion- ally in order that they may be equally cooked. Mix the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 cupful of cream, and 1 dessertspoonful of finely chopped pars- ley. Draw the pan from the fire for a couple of minutes, taking off the cover; put a table- spoonful or two of the liquid with the eggs and cream, then pour the whole gradually into the saucepan. Stir the sauce until it thickens, ^nd serve the carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time to stew the carrots, half an hour. Boiled Carrots Wash and prepare the carrots. If they are very large they should be halved and sliced. Throw them into plenty of boiling water with salt in it, keep them boiling, and when a fork can be easily pushed into them they are ready. They may be boiled in the same saucepan with beef, and a few should be placed rpund the dish and the rest sent to table in a tureen. White sauce generally accompanies them. Many per- sons are fond of cold carrots with cold beef. They may be easily wanned up by covering them closely and putting the dish in which they VEGETABLES 709 are placed into boiling water. Time : young car- rots, half an hour ; fully-grown, from one and a half to two hours. Stewed Carrots in Cream Wash and slice some large carrots, and sim- mer them in as much weak broth as will cover them till they are nearly tender, then add a cup- ful of milk or cream, and thicken the sauce with flour and butter. Season it with pepper and salt. Keep stirring the contents of the saucepan to prevent them burning. Put the carrots into a hot vegetable dish, and pour the gravy over them. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. To Dress Carrots in the German Way Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Lay in it 6 carrots cut into thin slices, with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful of finely minced onion. Let them remain until tender, adding every now and then, as it is re- quired, a little water or stock. Thicken the sauce with a little flour, and about a quarter of an hour before serving add one tablespoonful of finely minced parsley. Time, one hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. Scalloped Asparagus Boil a bunch of asparagus in salted water until tender, — do not use any of the tough part 710 VEGETABLES of the stalk; the lower ends need not be thrown away, however, but should be put aside, and on the day following they may be boiled until soft enough to put through the puree sieve, when the pulp will make a cream soup, or can be used for a sauce. Boil hard 3 eggs, throw them into cold water, and when cool chop them. Have ready 1 cupful of grated Edam cheese. Butter a baking-dish, put in a layer of asparagus, one of the chopped eggs, then one of cheese, filling the dish with the asparagus on top. Have ready 1 pint of drawn butter or milk gravy seasoned with salt and pep- per ; pour this gradually over the asparagus, so that it will reach all parts of it. Cover the top with fine bread crumbs and sprinkle lightly with the cheese. Bake until nicely browned. This may be pre- pared from asparagus left over from the day before. Boiled Asparagus Choose bunches of asparagus which have the cut fresh and the heads straight. If the cut end is brown and dry, and the heads bent on one side, the asparagus is stale. It may be kept a day or two with the stalks in cold water, but is much better fresh. Scrape off the white skin from the lower end, and cut the stalks of equal length. Let them lie in cold water untU it is VEGETABLES 7JJ time to cook them. Put a handful of salt into a gallon of water and let it boil. \ Tie the aspara- gus in bundles and put them into it. Toast a slice of bread brown on each side, dip it in the water, and lay it on a dish. When the aspara- gus is sufficiently cooked,, dish it on the toast, serving with drawn butter sauce, or HoUan- daise. Fricasseed Asparagus Wash a quarter of a hundred heads of aspar- agus, cut off the tender portion, and lay them into cold water until they are required. Drain them, and chop them with a young lettuce, half a head of endive, and a small onion. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce- pan, melt it, then mix with it smoothly a des- sertspoonful of flour and half a pint of stock. Add the chopped vegetables, with pepper and salt, and let all stew gently until the sauce is thick and good. Serve hot. Time to stew, half an hour. Asparagus h la Crtme Take off about two inches of the head-ends of the asparagus ; cut them into pieces about the size of peas, and put them into a saucepan with some cold salt and water. Let them boil about ten minutes; then take them out, drain them, melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, and place them in it. Shake the 712 VEGETABLES saucepan over the fire for a few miniites ; then sprinkle a dessertspoonful of flour over it, and a small teacupful of boiling water, pepper and salt to taste, and pour over the asparagus the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, mixed with 4 tablespoon- fuls of new milk. Let all simmer gently for five or ten minutes ; then serve. Time, half an hour. Allow a hundred for a tureenful. Sufficient for five or six persons. Stewed Jerufalem Artichokes Peel the artichokes and put them at once into vinegar and water' to prevent them from dis- coloring. Cook until tender in boiling salted water. Take them out the moment they are done, or they will become tough. Serve with a highly seasoned cream sauce. Fried Artichokes Wash, trim, and boil the artichokes as di- rected in recipe previous for boiling. Remove the chokes and the outer leaves, leaving only the most tender. Cut them into about a dozen pieces, then dip them in batter, fry in hot oil or dripping until they are lightly browned, drain, and serve with fried parsley. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Artichokes Stewed in Gravy Strip off the leaves from the artichokes, re- move the chokes, and soak them in lukewarm VEGETABLES 7J3 water for three hours, changing the water three or four times. Place them in a saucepan with enough gravy to cover them, a tahle^poonful of mushroom catsup, the juice of a lemon, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, rolled in flour. Let them stew gently until tender, then serve with the sauce poured over th6m, and as hot as possible. Time to stew, half an hour. Allow one for each person. Fricasseed Jerusalem Artichokes Boil some artichokes according to thd pre- ceding recipe. Take them out of the water and drain them. Put a breakfast-cupful of milk into a saucepan, flavor it with salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon, and thicken it with a sniall piece of butter rolled in flour. Turn the arti- chokes into this, and let all stew together gently for a few minutes. Time to stew,, five or six minutes. Stuffed Artichokes Thoroughly wash the artichokes. Boil them until they are nearly tender, drain them, re- move the middle leaves and the chpkes, and lay in each a little good force-meat, and put them in a moderate oven until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Make a little good white sauce to serve with them. Time to bake, half an hour. Allow one for each person. 46 7J4 VEGETABLES Artichokes S I'ltafienne Well wash, trim, and quarter the artichokes, and boil them in salt and water until tender. Bemove the chokes, drain thoroughly, and ar- range them on a dish with the leaves outwards, and intersperse them with watercresses. Pour good white sauce, flavored with stewed mush- rooms, over them. Time to boil the artichokes, half an hour. ^ Pur6e of Jerusalem Artichokes Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan; let it melt, then throw into it 2 bay leaves, 1 sliced onion, 3 pounds of Jerusa- lem artichokes washed, pared, and sliced, and half a pound of bacon in rashers. Keep these well stirred in the boiling butter for about ten minutes ; then add to them, gradually, % pint of stock. Let all boil up together until the vege- tables are thoroughly cooked; then add % piiit more stock, stir it well, add pepper and salt, and serve with toasted sippets. To Cook Cauliflower Let it soak in cold water one hour before cooking. Take off the outside leaves and cut the stem off close. Put it, stem-side down, into boiling water sufficient to cover it; add 1 tea- spoonful of salt, and boil till tender, from one- VEGETA BLES 715 half hour to one hour. When done it may be served in the following ways : Boiled, with Cream or Hollandaise Sauce Take up carefully so as to preserve shape. Place in dish and pour cream sauce over it. Baked Serve in the same way with Hollandaise sauce. Boiled, with Butter Sauce Boil, break into small pieces. Put a layer in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with grated cheese and a few bits of butter. Repeat till dish is filled. Pour over it a cupful of milk, seasoned with a teaspoonful of salt, and salt- spoonful of pepper. Cover with bread or cracker crumbs, and brown in oven. The best way to cook cauliflower whole is as given above. When done cover with drawn but- ter, not cream sauce, and serve, or sprinkle thickly with grated cheese. Put in oven to brown. Serve either in baking-dish in which it has been browned, or remove carefully to plat- ter and garnish with parsley Escalioped Cauliflower Boil till very tender. Drain well and cut in small pieces ; put it in layers with fine chopped egg and this dressing : % pi^t of milk thickened 7J6 VEGETABLES over boiling water with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and seasoned with 2 teaspoonfuls of salt, 1 of white pepper, and 2 ounces of butter.. Put grated bread over the top, dot it with small bits of butter, and place it in the oven to heat thori oughly and brown. Serve in the same dish in which it was baked. Vegetable Cutlets Cut into bits cooked cauliflower, carrots, cel- ery or asparagus tips to measure 1 pint; add 1 cupful thick, seasoned white sauce ; when cool, form into cutlets; dip into egg and bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat ; garnish with pimolas, olives, and paper frills ; serve with green but- tered peas. Cauliflower au Gratin Cleanse, trim, and quarter 1 or 2 large cauli- flowers. Throw them into boiling water, and let them remain for five minutes; drain, and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are ready. Whilst they are boiling mix smoothly together in a stewpan 1 ounce of but- ter and one ounce of flour, add a quarter of a pint of cold water and a little pepper and salt. Let the sauce boil, and stir it over the fire for ten minutes. Put in with it 1 ounce of grated Parhiesan cheese and 1 tablespoonful of cream, and take the saucepan from the fire. Cut the cauliflowers into neat pieces ; lay half of these VEGETABLES 717 in a tureen, pour a little of the sauce over them, and add the remainder of the vegetables and the rest of the sauce. Sprinkle a large table- spoonful of bread raspings and another of grated Parmesan over the top, and bake the preparation ia a hot oven until it is nicely- browned. Serve very hot. Time to brown, a quarter of an hour. Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce Boil four large white cauliflowers in a little water until they are tender, then cut off the stalks and press them head downwards into a hot basin. Turn them into a tureen, and pour round them "a little tomato or piquant sauce. Before serving, place the stalks neatly round them. They should look like- one immense cauli- flower. "Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil. Cauliflower with Stuffing Choose a saucepan the exact size of the dish ihtended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower, and cut it into Sprigs; thrOw these into boiling salt and water for two min- utes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downward, in the sauce- pan, the bottom. of which must have been pre- viously covered with thin slices of bacon. Fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of 3 tablespoonfuls of finely minced veal, the same 7J8 VEGETABLES of beef suet, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a little pepper and salt, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced chives, and a dozen small mushrooms chopped small. Strew these ingredients over the cauli- flowers in alternate layers, and pour over them 3 well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add sufficient nicely flavored stock to cover the whole. Simmer gently till the cauli- flowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced ; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savory mixture. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cauliflower in Cheese Fill pineapple cheese, out of which the cheese has all been scooped, with creamed cauliflower. Place on folded cloth in pan, sprinkle grated cheese over the top, and bake in moderate oven twenty minutes. Cabbage and Bacon Boil a piece of salt pork until it is about three- quarters cooked. Then take it out of the water, drain it, and place two or three rashers of bacon in the saucepan. Lay on these a cabbage which has been thoroughly washed and cut into quar- ters, and put the pork over the cabbage. Cover VEGETABLES 719 the whole with nicely flavored stock, and pep- per, nutmeg, and parsley, but no salt, as it will most likely be found there is sufficient in the bacon and stock. Simmer gently until the cab- bage is cooked. Place the vegetables on a hot dish with the pork in the midst of them ; thicken the gravy, and pour it over the whole. Time to boil the cabbage, twenty minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Creamed Cabbage Thoroughly cleanse two young cabbages, and boil them until quite soft. Take them out, drain, and press them between two hot plates imtil they are dry, when they may be slightly chopped. , Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, add pepper and salt, then put in the cabbage, and turn it about for two or three minutes. When it is thoroughly heated, dredge 1 tablespoonful of flour over it, and mix with it very gradually a cupful of milk or cream. Serve on a hot dish. Time, half ah hour. Suf- ficient for three or four persons. Brussels Sprouts Wash and pick off the outer leaves. Place the vegetables in a pan of boiling water, to which have been added a handful of salt and a very small piece of soda. Let thera boil quickly until tender. Drain the water from 720 VEGETABLES them, and serve as hot as possible. Pepper sU^htly, and spread a little butter over them. Send a little, melted butter, to the table with them, but not on them. The best way to keep greens a good color is to put them into the saucepan when the water is boiling ; keep them ibpijing fast all the time; let them have plenty of room and plenty of water; let them be un- covered, and take them up as soon as tliey are cooked. Time, twenty minutes for sprouts. Saute Brussels Sprouts Wash and drain 1 pound of sprouts; put them into boiling water for. fifteen minutes, with % an ounce of salt to each gallon, and when done, dry them on a clean cloth. Dissolve % an ounce of butter in a pan, and shake the sprouts in it over the fire for a minute or two ; season them with pepper, salt, and a little nut- meg, and serve very hot. Sprouts about the size of a walnut have the most delicate flavor. Sufficient for two or three persons. Stuffed Cabbage Choose a good-sized firm young cabbage. Wash it thoroughly, and lay it in water to ;which has been added 1 tablespoonful of vine- gar. Let it remain for half an hour, then drain it, cut off tbe stalk, and scoop out the heart, so VEGETABLES m as to make a space for the stuffing, which may be made of sausage-meat, mixed with chestnuts cut small, or any flavoring that may he pre- ferred. Press the force-meat into the cabbage, cover it with leaves, which must be well tied on with tape to prevent escaple. Place the cab- bage in a saucepan with some slices of bacon, a;bove and below if, and cover the whole with nicely flavored stock. Let it stew gently for half an hour. Take out the cabbage, remove the tape, place it on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it.' Sufficient for three or four 'per- sons. To Keep Cabbage Fresh ' * Havie the cabbages cut with two or three inches of stalk, of which the pith must be tiaken out without injuring the rind. Hang the cab- bages up by the stalk, and fill the hollows with a little fresh water every day. Cabbages will thus keep fresh for four or five weeks. Cabbage ^ la Lilloise Wash and drain a large cabbage, and, after removing the stalk, cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut. Melt 2 ounces of butter in a saucepan, and fry in it for a" itdaiite or two a small teaspoonful of finely chopped onion. Add the cabbage, with pepper, salt, and a little griated nutmeg. Codk it over & Slow fire, and 722 VEGETABLES turn it frequently to prevent burning. Place on a hot dish and serve. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes. Boiled Cabbage Cut off the stalk, remove the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cab- bages. Wash them thoroughly, and lay them for a few minutes in water, to which 1 table- spoonful of vinegar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Drain them in a colander. Have ready a large pan of boiling water, with 1 tablespoon- ful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbages boil quickly till tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered.' Take them up as soon as they are done, drain them thoroughly, and serve. Time to boil: young summer cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes; large cabbages or savoys, half an hour or more. To Dress Sauerkraut Take as much kraut as will be required out of the barrel, and wash it lightly, first in warm, and then in cold water. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in half the kraut, lay upon this the meat which it is to accompany — ham, beef, pork, sausages, etc., are those usually served with it — ^lay the remainder of the kraut on the meat, and pour over it a little stock and VEGETABLES 723 a glass of wine if liked. Add stock or water occasionally, as it is required, to moisten the preparation, and stir it every now and then to keep it from burning. Cover closely, and simmer gently over a slow fire until the meat is done enough, and the kraut is soft. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauerkraut round it. It can scarcely be boiled too long, and can be warmed up again with fresh meat a second time. Time to boil, not less than three hours at the first boiling. To Make Sauerkraut The following interesting particulars as to the German practice in regard to the prepara- tion of sauerkraut are drawn from " Ger- man National Cookery." The finest and hard- est white cabbages must be chosen, and the color will be improved if they are allowed to lie heaped together in a cool corner for several days before being used. The cutting is usually done with an instrument called a hoMhobel {cah- bage-plane). -Instead of this a large knife will do. Throw away the outer leaves of the cab- bages, and halve and quarter them. Cut out the stalks and larger ribs of the leaves. Begin at the tfip of the head to cut them across in very narrow strips. Have ready a well-seasoned oak barrel or pickling-tub, or an earthen bread- 724 VEGETABLES pan would do. Cover tlie bottom of tHe vessel with clean cabbage leaves, throw in the cabbage as it is cut, sprinkle it with salt, equally dis- persed as it is thrown in. Many scatter in a few juniper-berries or caraway-seeds. As the shred cabbage is put into the tub, it should be stamped down hard with a club. When all is packed close strew a little salt over the top, cover it with a few cabbage leaves, and then with a Clean linen cloth. Put on it a wooden lid that will fit inside the vessel, and lay on this a heavy stone. Do hot put the " kraut-stand" in too cool a place till fermentation has begun ; this may be known by small white globules forming on the brine, which ought to appear above the kraut after a day or two. If this is not the case, boil salt and water, let it get cold, and then pour it over. This latter must not be a strong brine. A good handful of salt is enough to allow for a large bucket or firkin of cut cab- bage; too much prevents fermentation. In a fortnight the cloth on the top must be well washed in cold water, and spread over again. At the same time the leaves on the top must either be well rinsed also or renewed. This washing must be done once every week, whether kraut is taken out or not. In two or three weeks it is pickled enough for use, and will keep good for a year. VEGETABLES 725 Scotch Kale Procure Scotch kale as fresh as possible, and cut away the outer and decayed leaves, and the stalks ; wash with care, and drain it. Put it into boiling water slightly salted, and let it boll quickly until cooked; drain thoroughly and serve very hot. Whilst the kale is boiling, the saucepan should be left uncovered. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Swiss Cabbage Eemove the centre and fill with sausage-meat. Place a layer of the same between the leaves ; tie securely in cheesecloth, and boil until the vege- table is - tender. Pour over a cupfnl of hot vinegar. Cucumber iviangoes Choose large, green cucumbers, not very ripe, cut a long narrow strip out of the sides, and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Pound a few of these with a little scraped horseradish, finely shred garlic, mustard seed, and white pepper ; stuff the hollows out of which the seeds came as full as they will hold, replace the strips, and bind them in their places with a little thread. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them, and pour it on them while hot ; repeat this for three days. The last time boil the vinegar with half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, 2 ounces of pepper, 2 ounces of mustard 726 VEGETABLES seed, a stick of horseradish, and 1 clove of garlic to every half gallon of vinegar. Put the cucumbers into jars, pour the boiling liquid over them, tie the jars closely down, and set them aside for use. Time, four days. Stuffed Cucumbers Peel large cucuiiibers. Remove a narrow piece from the side, and scoop out the seeds with a teaspoon. Fill the cavity with nicely flavored force-ineat, replace the piece, and bind it round with strong white thread. Line the bottom of a saucepan with slices of meat and bacon, put the cucumber upon it, and then 2 or 3 more slices. Cover the whole with nicely flavored stock, and, if more vegetables are desired, 2 or 3 sliced carrots, turnips, and onions may be added. Season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently, until cucumber, meat, and vegetables are sufficiently cooked. If the cucumber is tender before the rest, it should be taken out, and kept hot. Thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, and pour it over the cucumber. Time, about one hour. Fried Cucumbers Peel the cucumbers, slice in half-inch slices, and put them in ice water for half an hour. Drain, wipe dry, and roll in beaten egg, then in fine salted cracker crumbs. Fry in dbep hot VEGETABLES 727 fat; drain in a hot oven on brown paper, dust with salt and pepper, and serve hot. If the cucumbers are quite large, they may be cut lengthwise in quarters and the seeds scooped out by drawing the tip of a spoon down the centre. Then divide them once in length, roll, and fry as before. Stewed Cucumbers Peel 2 or 3 cucumbers that are too large for serving in the usual way. Cut them in quarters lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Cut again in inch and a half lengths, and throw them for half an hour or more in very cold watdr. Stew until tender in enough slightly salted, boiling water to cover them. Drain off the water, turn into a hot dish and simply dress with melted butter, salt, and pepper, with the addition, if liked, of 1 spoonful of rich hot cream. They may be served on crisp toast at breakfast or lunch with eggs, or to accompany an omelet, or with parsley butter as an accompaniment to a fish course, or with fish-balls. The wonder is, when so many think the cucuinber indigestible, that it is not more used as a cooked vegetable. Cucumbers a la Poulette Peel 2 small, young cucumbers. Remove the seeds. Cut the fruit into pieces about one inch thick and: two inches long, stew these till tender 72a VEGETABLES ^^^^'^—— ■■■ — -■ --■ - ■-■■ - ■ _^ in water with a little salt and vinegar in it; drain them; put into a stewpan 1 ounce of but- ter and % of an ounce of flour ; mix the butter and flour well, and let them remain about three minutes. Add gradually 1 pint of nicely fla- vored stock. Simmer gently for fifteen min- utes. Put in the cucilmbers, with a seasoning of salt and pepper, and in a minute or two, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. Draw the sauce from the fire, and, just before serving it, add the well- beaten yolks of 2 eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Time, one hour. Pickled Cucumbers If the cucumbers are very young and small they may be pickled whole ; if not, they are better cut into thick slices. Sprinkle salt rather plenti- fully over them, and let them remain, twenty- four hours. Drain them from the juice, dry them in cloth, and pour over them boiling vin- egar, with % an ounce of mustard seed, 1 ounce of salt, 1 ounce of whole pepper, half a bruised nutmeg, and a pinch of cayenne to every quart of vinegar. Cover them closely, and let them remain until next day, when the vinegar must again be boiled and poured over the cucumbers, and this process repeated each day. for four days. They should then be covered closely, and care should be taken with these, as with all VEGETABLES 729 pickles, that they are thoroughly covered with vinegar. It is best to pickle cucumbers by them- selves, as they are apt to become mouldy. If any sign of. this appears (and they should be looked at every three or four weeks to ascer- tain it, and on this account should be kept in a wide-mouthed glass bottle instead of an earthen jar), put them into a fresh dry bottle, boil the viuegar up again, and pour it over them. Time to pickle, one week. To Dress Cucumbers Pare the cucimiber and cut it into thin slices. Sprinkle a little salt over, and in a few minutes drain off the water which exudes. Put the slices on a' clean dish, and pOur over a French dress- ing. Many persoUs like a few slices of onion served with the cucumber, or 1 teaspoohfut of the vinegar in which onions have been pickled may be added to the other vinegar. To Serve Spinach This vegetable must be washed thoroughly in several waters to free itf rom grit. To do this lift it out of the water in both hands, a small quan- tity at a time. The stalk must be pulled from each leaf before boiling. Put the prepared spinach into an empty saucepan, sprinkle a little salt over it, and stir it eonstantly to prevent burn- ing. Boil the spinach till it becomes tender. 47 730 VEGETABLES Place the boiled spinacli on a colander or siete, press it, chop it on a clean board, put it into a saucepan, add butter and broth — ^taking care, however, not to thin it too much with the broth — and taste whether it is salt enough. Stir it over, the fire till the liquid is absorbed, pile on a hot dish, and serve. Half an ounce of butter and 1 tablespoonful of cream, or broth, will be enough for 1 pound of spinach. If cream a day old is to be obtained, we may finally incor- porate a little flour with it, and add the whole to the spinach. To embellish this dish, cut milk bread into slices, forming the crust into points, fry in butter till yellow, prepare hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters lengthwise, and serve the spinach, placing round it first an egg and then a crust alternately. Spinach as Greens Boil spinach as for other recipes. Drain and press out water, return to saucepan, add butter, pepper, and salt, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve with boiled meat. The leaves of young beets or turnip tops may be substituted for spinach, or greens, and are frequently used when spinach is out of season. German Mode of Cooking Spinach " Spinach," says the compiler of " German National Cookery," " requires to lie in water a VEGETABLES 73J little while, and to be several times rinsed in fresh water. Put it into boiling water with salt; give it eight or ten minutes' gentle boiling uncovered. If its earthy flavor is objected to, throw it into plenty of cold water when boiled enough, then drain, and press' it dry ; chop it fine. Make butter hot, throw it into some grated bread crumbs, then add the spinach. Or make a thick butter-sauce, and stir the spin- ach into this to get thoroughly hot. Serve gar- nished with either cutlets, sausages, hard-boiled eggs sliced, and sippets of buttered to^st, or poached eggs. If the full flavor of the spinach is liked, simply wash it well, clear it of the large stems, and drain it. Put a piece of butter in a saucepan, and when melted put in the spinach; cover, and as it shrinks put in more. Let it cook in its own juice. Sprinkle salt over as you put it in." Spinach with Eggs Prepare spinach as for the above recipe. Put it on a hot dish, smooth it with the blade of a knife, and mark it in squares. Place as many poached eggs as there are guests on the top of the spinach, or, if preferred, put them round it, each egg on a piece of buttered toast. Serve the whole very hot. If a superior dish is required, the spinach, after being boiled till tender, may be rubbed through a wire sieve, and the pulp 732 VEGETABLES heated with a slice of fresh butter, 1 tablespoon- f ul of thick cream, and a little pepper and salt, Purde of Spinach with Butter Pick the stalks from 3 quarts of spinach, and wash it in two or three waters. Lift it out of the water with the fingers that the sand may settle at the bottom, and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightly salted as will keep it from burning. Keep it boiling till it is tender, and press it under the water occa- sionaUy with a wooden spoon. Drain it well; carefully pick away any stalks or fibre that may still remain in it, and rub" it through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and a little pepper and salt, and stir it briskly over the fire till it is quite hot. Add a spoonful or two of sauce, and let it remain on the fire, stirring all the time, for five minutes. Serve very hot, and garnish with fried sippets, or pile it in the centre of a dish, and place lamb or mutton cutlets on end round it, the long bones inclining towards each other. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen niinutes. Fagadu Bradu Take of spinach that has been well washed and drained, enough for a dish ; stew it over a VEGETABLES 733 slow-fire until half done, then press out all the moisture> and add to"* it the whole of a lobster cut into bits-^small ones, and seasoned with cayenne and salt to taste — 2 tablespoonfuls of curry-powder, and 2 ounces of butter. Stew till the spiiiach is quite tender, which will be in about fifteen minutes. ' > Boiled Winter Squash Winter squashes are stewed in the same way as others, but they must remain on the fire a lit- tle longer. Cut up the squashes in pieces an inch thick, having first pared the squash; if old, extract the seeds and boil the pieces until they break, mash them with a spoon, boil them a little longer, and when they are done squeeze them through a colander. Mix them with a lit- tle salt and a small quantity of butter. If kept in a ,dry place, winter squashes yill remain good all the winter, but if they are once frozen they lose their flavor and are apt to decay. They are richer and firmer than the summer kind. To Cook Summer Squash If young and tender, cut into thick slices and boil in as little water as possible, or steam about one hour. Drain well, or better still, squeeze it in a thin cloth. Mash and season with butter, plenty of salt, and a little pepper. If the squash is old, peel and remove the seeds. 734 VEGETABLES Pickled Onions Onions, like all other ptekles, are considered more wholesome, though less handsome, when prepared at home, than when bought at the warehouses. Home-made pickled onions are besides quite as expensive. The small silver onions are generally used for pickling, and should be obtained as soon as possible after they are harvested, as they are then in the best con- dition. This will be about the middle of August. Peel the onions until they look clear, being care- ful not to cut the bulb. If a little warm water be poured over them the task will not be quite so disagreeable. Throw them as they are peeled into a bowl of white-wine vinegar, and when they are all finished strain the vinegar into an enameled stewpan, with 1 ounce of whole peppercorns, 1 dessertspoonful of salt, and an inch of whole ginger to each quart. Boil gently for five minutes, let the liquid cool, and pour it over the onions. It must be boiled again twice before the onions are fastened up, and should be sufficient to cover them entirely. Put the pickle into jars, cork securely, and cover them with bladder, then store for use. Instead of boiling the vinegar three times, the onions may be thrown into it when boiling, and simmered gently for two minutes. Onions and cucumbers are frequently pickled together. VEGETABLES 735 Onions ^ la Crfeme Peel four medium-sized Spanish onions, and boil them in water slightly salted until they are sufficiently cooked. Drain them on a sieve, and put them into a stewpan with 3 ounces of but- ter rubbed smoothly with a tablespoonful of flour, and a little salt and white pepper. Shake the pan constantly, and stir in by degrees % pint of cream or new milk. Serve the onions on toasted bread, with the sauce poured over. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. One hour to boil the onions, quarter of an hour to stew them. Onion and Eggs Wash and peel a large Spanish onion. Cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch in thick- ness, strew a little salt and pepper over these, and fry them in hot butter until they are ten- der, without being browned. Take the pieces up with an egg-slicer to preserve them whole, drain well from the fat, and place them on a hot dish. Squeeze the juice of 2 large fresh lemons upon them. Have ready 4 poached eggs, place theise on the onions, and serve immedi- ately. Time, twenty minutes altogether. Onion Porridge , Peel a large Spanish oniony divide it into four, and put i it into a saucepan with % salt- spoonful of salt, 2 ounces of butter, and 1 pint 736 VEGPTABLES of cold water. Let it simmer gently until it is quite tender, then pour it into a heated bowl, dredge a little pepper over it, and eat it as hot as possible just before goiag to bed. Time to boil the onion, about half an hour. Sufficient for one person. A country remedy for a cold in the head. Plain Boiled Onions Peel half a dozen medium-sized Spanish oi^ions, and boil them gently for five or six min- utes in a little salt and water. Drain them on a sieve, and throw them into cold water for an hour. Put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and let them simmer gently until they are tender quite through, without being broken. Serve on a hot dish, with a little melted butter poured over them. Time, medium-sized Spanish onions, an houi: and a half to boil. Baked Spanish Onions Wash and trim, without peeling, half a dozen Spanish onions of medium size. Put' them into a saucepan, cover them with water slightly salted, and let them simmer very gently for about an hour. Take them up, drain them, wrap each onion in a separate piece of paper, put them into a moderate oven, and let them remain until quite tender. Before dishing them, re- move the skins, sprinkle a little pepper and salt VEGETABLES 737 over them, and pour hal;f a pint of good gravy into the dish with them. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Sufficient for five or six per- sons. Stuffed Baked Onions Peel large Spanish onions, partly boil them, and leave them on a sieve to drain until nearly cold. Then cut the onions an inch and a half across the top, and scoop out the centre. Have ready a stuffing made with 1 ounce of finely grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs minced very finely, 1 ounce of butter, 3 ounces of bread crumbs, 1 saltspoon- ful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper. Mix all well, together with a spoonful or two of milk. Fill up the onions with the force-meat, brush them over with egg and bread crumbs, and bake them until nicely browned. Serve on a hot dish, with brown gravy poured over them. Time, half an hour to boil the onions; three- quarters of an hour to bake, Stewed Onions Peel and trim half a dozen Spanish onions of naedium size, but be careful not to cut the tops too short, or the bulb will fall to pieces whilst stewing. Blanch them in boiling water for a minute or two, then drain them, and put them side by side in a saucepan sufficiently large, to 738 VEGETABLES hold them all in one layer. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and place upon each onion 1/2 ounce of butter, mixed smoothly with % teaspoonful of powdered^sugar. Place them over a gentle fire, and let them remain until lightly browned; then cover with good brown gravy, and simmer them until tender. Serve as hot as possible on toast, with the gravy poured round them. If liked, the gravy may be fla- vored with tomato sauce, or with a finely minced gherkin and a glass of claret. A pleasing va- riety, too, may be secured by taking out the middle of each onion, stuffing it with nicely sea- soned force-meat, and then stewing in gravy as before. Time to stew the onions, about an hour and a half. Onions 'with Beefsteak, etc. Take 2 large Spanish onions; remove a thin piece from each end, peel off the outer skins, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Place 1 ounce of butter or good dripping in a saucepan, let it melt, then put with it 1 pound of steak, divided into pieces a little thinner than for broiling. Brown these in the butter, add a little pepper and salt, the sliced onions, 3 ounces more of butter, but no liquid; cover the sauce- pan closely, and simmer as gently as possible till done. Arrange the steak neatly in the cen- VEGETABLES 739 tre of a hot dish, boil up the onion gravy sauce with 1 tablespoonful of walnut catsup, pour it over the meat, and serve immediately. Chick- ens or rabbits are sometiiaes cooked in the same way. Time, about an hour and a half. Onions with Grated CFieese Wash and peel 3 or 4 large sound onions, cut them into slices fully half an inch thick, and place them side by side in a single layer in a well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle a little pep- per and salt over them, place them in a quick oven, and let them remain until tender; strew each piece of onion thickly with grated cheese, and return the dish again to the oven for a few minutes until the cheese has dissolved. Lift the slices carefully upon a hot dish, and serve im- mediately. A little mustard should be e^ten with them. Time, half an hour to bake. A German recipe. Leeks This, the Allium Porrum, is a plant highly valued for culinary purposes. Its flavor is much milder than that of the onion, or any other species of Allirnn. In Wales, the leek has long been a special favorite. It is ordinarily sown in spring, and is ready for use in the following winter. Attention has long been given to its growth, and some of the varieties exhibit in a 740 VEGETABLES remarkable degree tlie effects of cultivation in increased size and delicacy. Boiling of Leeks Leeks are generally used in soups, etc* If served alone, take them when very young, trim off the root, the outer leavesj and the green ends, and cut the stalks in six-inch l)&ngths. Tie them in bundles, put them into boiling water, with 1 dessertspoonful of salt, and 1 tablesppoij- ful of vinegar, and let them boil until quite ten- der. Drain them, and serve like asparagus, on hot toast, pouring white sauce or melted butter over them. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Flemish Leeks Rub % pound of fresh butter into 1 pound of flour; add % teaspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, and % pint of water. Mix thoroughly. Divide this pastry into four parts, and roll these out into rounds about six inches in diameter. Have ready 1 dozen leeks prepared as follows : Wash them in two or three waters, trim off the root and the outer leaves, strew 1 tablespoonful of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and % grated nutmeg over them, and pour over them % pint of cream. Let them soak for half an hour. Put the rounds of pastry on a baking-dish ; fill each one with the leeks, draw up the sides tp the VEGETABLES 741 centre, fasten them securely together, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Radishes To be eaten in perfection, radishes should be freshly pulled and tender. When preparing them for table, wash them thoroughly, and leave about ah inch and a half of the stalk. Cut the fibres from the bulbs, and lay them in cold water for an hour. Serve them in a circle on a plate with the stalk end outwards, and a salt- cellar in the centre. Radishes are very com- monly added to salads. Horseradish ' Wash the horseradish thoroughly, and lay it in cold water for an hour. G-rate it into shreds and use it to garnish various dishes. It is a frequent accompaniment to roast beef, and to many kinds of fish. Horseradish Sauce Take a piece of butter the size of one egg, beat it up with % tablespoonful of flour, thin it with 1 cupful of warm broth or hot milk, place it on the fire to boil, stirring it all the time ; stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish^ let it heat, but not boil ; add a little salt, and serve. A German recipe. 742 VEGETABLES Tomatoes In the season of fresh tomatoes, the simplest way of serving them is to slice and use them as a salad or side dish, or with sugar and cream as a dessert. Served in this way some people consider them a close rival to strawberries, the sugar and cream seeming to combine with them to bring out a flavor similar to that delectable berry. To prepare them to be served raw, select smooth tomatoes of uniform size, put them in a wire basket, colander, or coarse strainer, plunge them in boiling water, let them stand a few minutes, then plunge them into cold water. They can almoet immediately be handled easily, and the skins will peel off very readily. Put them on or near the ice to get very cold, and when ready to serve slice and serve with a French or mayonnaise dressing or with sugar as liked. The small round peach or egg tomatoes are very pretty served whole, in nests of lettuce or cress. The tomato contains so much acid that it needs very little vinegar, and the persistent use of salt, pepper, and vinegar as a dress- ing is said to induce irritation of the mouth and the coating of the stomach and digestive organs. VEGETABLES 743 Curried Tomatoes with Rice Boil 1 cupful of rice until tender and dry. While this is cooking, scald and peel 4 or 5 medium-sized tomatoes. Cut them in halves across and take out the seeds ; then cut each of these halves in two. Chop 2 small onions very fine, cook them in a saucepan with 2 table- spoonfuls of butter until tender; add 1 tea- spoonful of curry powder, 1 bay leaf, 1 blade of mace, and 1 cupful of hot water. Let this mixture boil, then put in the tomatoes, cover closely and simmer twenty minutes, or until the tomatoes are tender, but not broken. Dish the rice in a mound on a deep hot plat- ter or shallow vegetable dish; place the toma- toes carefully around the edge of the dish, strain the sauce over all and serve at once. Curried Tomatoes with Olcra Scald and peel half a dozen medium-sized tomatoes ; cut them in halves across, scoop out the seeds, then cut them in small pieces and stew for ten minutes with 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of curry powder, 1 tea- spoonful of salt, and 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion. Put a layer of okra in a baking-dish with a cover; over it put a layer of the seasoned to- matoes, sprinkle over it a few fine bread 744 VEGETABLES crumbs, and strew plentiful bits of butter over the crumbs. Put another layer of okra, tomato, and crumbs until the dish is full. Have a rather thick layer of crumbs on the top. Distribute bits of biitter well over the top, and bake half an hour in a rather quick oven. Uncover the dish far the last ten minutes and let the top. brown nicely. Take it out of the oven and scat- ter thickly over the top mixed nuts chopped fine. While the dish has been cooking make a sauce by rubbing together 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour; add 1 cupful of boiling water, and cook until smooth and thick; add the juice of % lemon, % teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of cayenne. Strain the sauce over the top of the tomatoes and okra, and serve ia the same dish with boiled rice. Stewed Tomatoes The idea prevails among many inexpferienced cooks that all that is necessary in stewing to- matoes is to cut them up, stew a few minutes, and serve, either without seasoning, or if too juicy, with some bread crumbs, and perhaps salt, pepper, and sugar. The flavor of the tomato is brought out and greatly improved by long stew- ing; some authorities claim that they need an hour. This, of course, means very slow cooking. VEGETABLES , 745 The tomatoes should always be peeled, not at all a troublesome matter. If rapidly boiling water is poured over them, and they are al- lowed to stand a few minutes, then drained and plunged into cold water until cool enough to handle easily, the skins will come off very readily. They should then be cut in pieces and stewed in their own juice until tender — ^fifteen or twenty minutes. If they are too juicy to serve as a vegetable, drain off a part of the liquor and put it aside to add to the next day's soup or sauce; add the necessary salt; a little pepper, and a good-sized piece of butter. Then stew very slowly at least another fifteen or twenty minutes. If liked, a very little fine bread or cracker crumbs may be added, 1 table- spoonful of flour, rubbed smooth with butter, putting less butter in when stewing them. 2 cupfuls of mashed rice may be added while the tomatoes are stewing — or % pound of Ameri- can cheese, grated and beaten up with 3 eggs, and added after the tomatoes are stewed. Or tomatoes may be stewed in stock or gravy. Stewed Tomatoes and Corn Stew and strain nice ripe tomatoes, and to each 2 cupfuls of tomato add 1 cupful of tender green corn, cut from the cob. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. Cook theni together eight 48 746 VEGETABLES or ten minutes, then add boiling hot cream, % cupful to each 3 cupfuls of tomato and corn, and serve very hot ; or the corn may be omitted and the tomatoes stewed in the regular way. When done, add 3 beaten eggs; stew a few minutes longer, until the eggs set. Grilled Tomatoes Use the dark red solid-meated tomatoes for grilling. They should be firm and well ripened. Without peeling, cut a thin slice from the blos- som and the stem end, then cut in two once across. Put them in a fine wire broiler and broil over a hot fire, giving from three to eight minutes to each side. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with small steaks, or on hot rounds of buttered toast with cream sauce. Scalloped Tomatoes and Potatoes Peel and chop, or cut in small pieces, enough tomatoes to make 1 pint. Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion juice. Peel and chop enough potatoes to make 1 cupful. Butter a baking-dish and sprinkle lightly with fine bread crumbs, and put in half the tomatoes, then half the potatoes. Lay over them soft crackers, but- tered and broken in bits. Sprinkle over the crackers 2 spoonfuls of grated American cheese. Then add the rest of the tomatoes, the potatoes, VEGETABLES 747 and more cracker crumbs; put bits of butter plentifully over the top and bake in a hot oven thirty minutes, and serve at once. Canned tomatoes may be used for scalloping or cooking, and corn or rice may be substituted for potatoes. Tomatoes Baked with Eggs Select 6 or 8 firm tomatoes of uniform and medium size, scald and peel them. Scoop out a small portion of the inside, leaving sufficient thickness to keep the shape well. Chop fine 1 small onion and fry it until a light brown in a tablespoonful of butter, add to it 1 cupful of fine bread crumbs, the tomato pulp and juice taken out of the tomatoes, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, and salt and pepper. Cook all together until well heated. Pack the tomatoes closely together in a shal- low baking-pan of granite or earthenware, fill the centres with the mixture, and if any re- mains put it around the tomatoes. Bake in a hot oven twenty or thirty minutes, then break carefully over the top of each 1 egg, return to the oven and bake until the egg is set. On tak- ing it out of the oven shake a little salt and pep- per over the top^ of the eggs, and serve at once. This makes a hearty dish for a Sunday night supper, or for lunch. 748 VEGETABLES Stuffed Tomatoes Take 6 or 8 firm, well-ripened tomatoes of uniform size, cut a slice from the stem end and scoop out the seeds, leaving all the pulp. Mix ■with 2 eupfuls of bread crumbs, 1 small onion minced fine, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Fill the tomatoes with the mixture, set them in a baking-dish with just enough water to prevent them from burning. Bake until tender, taking care that they do not break. When done, take them up carefully with a spatula on individual plates, garnish with sprigs of parsley oy cress, and serve at once. Cold minced-meat or force-meat may be added to the bread crumbs and will make a palatable stuffing. Tomatoes Stuffed with Meat or Fish A very nice dish for a luncheon, or Sunday evening or informal supper, is to fill tomatoes with a force-meat made with cold ham and mush- rooms. For 1 dozen nice firm tomatoes, scalded and peeled, take 1 small cupful of finely minced ham, the same amount of chopped mushrooms, and half of fine bread crumbs. Mix with it the juice and pulp scooped from the centre of the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, a dash of cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of finely minced parsley, and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter VEGETABLES 749 Mix all thoroughly and fill the tomatoes. Bake twenty minutes in a hot oven, basting the top occasionally with melted butter. Serve hot. Cold chicken or veal, or any nice 3old meat may be used with or substituted for the ham. Or use any nice cold fish like bluefish or white- fish. For a lunch dish they may be chilled after baking, and served with mayonnaise dressing on top. Tomatoes Stuffed with Chicken Salad Scald and drop into cold water 6 firm, smooth, round tomatoes ; peel them and cut a slice from the blossom end. Take out the seeds and fill with chicken salad; put 1 spoonful of whipped cream on the top of each, replace the slice cut from the end, laying it lightly on the top. Set each tomato in a little nest of crisp lettuce leaves, and put on the ice to chill. Serve very cold, and pass a mayonnaise dressing with it. Fried Tomatoes Slice, without peeling, ripe, firm tomatoes, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and dredge lightly on both sides with flour. Saute them in hot butter until nicely browned. Or they may be rolled in fine cracker crumbs and sauteed. Serve on a hot platter. These are good to serve for breakfast or 750 VEGETABLES lunch with potato or rice croquettes, or with. ham or cheese omelet. > Baked Eggs and Tomatoes One of the nicest ways of , the myriad nice ways in which to cook eggs for breakfast is to select as many round, firm, ripe tomatoes as there are persons to be served. Wash them, cut a thin slice from the top of each for a cover, and scoop out sufficient space to admit an egg. Put in each a little butter, drop in the egg, taking care not to separate the white and yolk, season with salt and pepper, put a small piece of but- ter on each egg, and a little minced parsley on the butter. Eeplace the cover and bake about twenty minutes in a hot oven. Grated cheese may be used instead of the parsley. Fried Green Tomatoes Cut the tomatoes into rather thick slices. Heat in a frying-pan 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Lay the tomatoes in and fry on both sides, turn- ing carefully without breaking the slices. After turning, dust lightly with pepper. A very little minced onion may be cooked in the butter if liked. Serve as a border for steak or chops. Another way is to dust each slice of the to- mato with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour or very fine cracker crumbs before frying. Cook until nicely browned. VEGETABLES 751 Tomatoes with Aspic Jelly Use rather small, firm tomatoes of uniform size. Pour boiling water over them and take off the skins, and put them in the refrigerator to cool. Soak % box of gelatine in % cupful of white stock. When dissolved add it to a cupful and a half more stock, season with 2 or 3 drops of Tabasco sauce, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, and salt to taste. Add a little cara- mel or green coloring. When the aspic is just ready to stiffen cut the tomatoes in slices, take out the seeds, and lay them in moulds ; fill each mould to the top with the aspic and put on the ice to stiffen. Before serving turn out on a lettuce leaf on small plates, and serve either with or without mayonnaise dressing, and pass with them thin bread-and-butter or bread-and- cheese sandwiches. If no stock is at hand, extract of beef may be substituted in the right proportion. They may be ,also put in one large mould instead of the small ones. Tomato Toast Stew 1 quart of tomatoes and season nicely with salt, pepper, a dash of cayenne, 1 table- spoonful of sugar and butter. A very little nutmeg or mace may be added if liked, and just a suspicion of onion juice. Toast thin slices of entire wheat bread to an 752 VEGETABLES even, delicate brown; put them on a hot platter and moisten slightly with hot water and melted butter. Cover the toast with the hot tomato, and just before serving put 1 spoonful of thick, whipped cream on the top of each slice. This is a nice breakfast or lunch dish to serve with a plain omelet and crisp slices of bacon French Tomatoes Scald and peel 6 small tomatoes of the solid-meated kind; the peach or Italian to- matoes are nice for this way of cooking. Make a cream sauce by rubbing together 1 tablespoon- ful of butter and 1 of flour ; add 1 cupful of hot milk, and stir over the fire until boiling; add salt and pepper to taste ; add only 1 drop or 2 .of onion juice, and just a dash of celery salt. Put 1 tablespoonful of the sauce in the bottom of a ramakin or custard cup, then drop in a to- mato and cover with the sauce. Sprinkle over the top bread crumbs seasoned well with butter. Stand the cups in a pan containing boiling water and bake half an hour in a moderately hot oven. Serve hot in the cups, placed on a small plate. Tomato Soufflfe Take 1 large cupful of thick, strained tomato pulp; season with salt and pepper, and stir in the beaten yolks of 6 eggs, and 1 tablespoonful of melted butter. Beat the whites of the eggs VEGETABLES 753 to a stiff froth and fold them in; turn into a buttered pan and bake fifteen minutes in. a hot oven. Serve at once. Pur6e of Turnips Pare and wash half a dozen large sound tur- nips, and split them into halves, or even into quarters. Boil them till they are very tender, and press the water thoroughly from them. Pass them through a hair sieve, and put them back into the saucepan. Dredge a small quan- tity of flour over them, and add a little white pepper and salt, a slice of butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of white sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream or milk. Stir them over the fire until' they are quite dry and stiff. Serve the puree in the cen- tre of a dish, and arrange cutlets, . etc., neatly round it. Some cooks add a little grated nut- meg or a little powdered ginger to turnip puree. Time to simmer with the cream, about ten min- utes ; to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Stewed Turnips h la Fran?aise Peel and wash half a dozen ti^rnips, and boil them in salted water till tender. Take them up, drain them, and in the water in which they have been boiled simmer gently 1 cupful of bread crumbs for five or six minutes. Wash the tur- nips, and put them into another saucepan with 754 , VEGETABLES the boiled bread and a little butter and pepper. Stir over a gentle fire till they are quite hot, and mix with them the yolk of an egg beaten up with 2 tablespoonfuls of milk. Let them stew gently a minute or two longer, and serve very hot. Turnips prepared thus are very good as an accompaniment to boUed mutton, veal, or poultry. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half to boil the turnips. Tried Turnips Boil 3 or 4 turnips till they are three parts cooked. Take them up, drain them, cut them into slices, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned and quite tender. Drain them, and serve with fried or boiled cutlets. Or peel them and cut them into very thin slices. Let them lie in cold water for an hour, and drain them. Dissolve a slice of butter in a stewpan, and in this dissolve 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion for five minutes. Put in the slices of tur- nip, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and let them steam till they are soft. A spoonful or two of water may be added if there is any fear that they will burn. Large Stuffed Turnips Boil whole 4 or 5 large turnips. Take them up, drain them, cut a slice from the top, and scoop out the middle. Beat the pulp which has VEGETABLES 755 been taken out with a little butter, flour, pepper, salt, and cream, and add the yolk of an egg. Fill the empty spaces with the mixture, put the tops on again, and brush them over with beaten egg. Brown them in a brisk oven, and serve very hot. Time to boil, from three-quarters to an hour and a half. Turnip and Potatoes Press seasoned mashed potatoes into a ring mould, brush over beaten egg, and brown in oven. Cut baUs from turnips with a French scoop. Boil in salted water twenty minutes. Drain; pile up in centre of potato ring. Pour over balls melted butter, seasoned with pepper or white sauce ; garnish with parsley. Stewed Lettuce Take 4 good-sized lettuces, trim away the outer leaves and the bitter stalks ; wash the let- tuces carefully, and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are tender. Lift them into a colander, and squeeze the water from them; chop them slightly, and put them into a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt, and a small piece of butter. Dredge a little flour on them, pour over them 3 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, or % cupful of cream and omit the lemon juice, and simmer gently for a quarter of an 756 VEGETABLES hour, stirring all the time. Squeeze 1 dessert- spoonful of vinegar or lemon juice upon them, and serve as hot as possible, with fried sippets round the dish. Time, altogether, three-quar- ters of an hour. Endive may be dressed as the above. Stuffed Lettuce Wash 4 or 5 large lettuces. Boil them in plenty of salted water for fifteen minutes. Throw them at once into cold water, and after- wards let them drain. Open them, fill them with good veal force-meat, tie the ends securely, and put them into a stewpan with as much good gravy as will cover them, 1 teaspoonful of salt, y^ teaspoonful of pepper, and 1 teaspoonful of vinegar. Simmer gently for another fifteen minutes, remove the strings, place them on a hot dish, and pour the gravy round them. If preferred, the lettuces may be prepared as above, and then put into a braising-pan, with thin slices of bacon above and under them. A carrot, an onion stuck with 2 cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little good gravy may then be added, and the lettuces simmered gently for an hour and a half. A glassful of sherry may be added to the gravy before it is served. Dressed Endive There are many varieties of endive : the green curled sort is principally used for salads. VEGETABLES 757 Those who like the bitterness of this vegetable will find it, when cooked according to the recipes here given, a wholesome and agreeable change during the summer. The green leaves may be boiled like those of any other vegetable, only changing the water twice to take off the bitter- ness. After boiling till tender, throw the endive into cold water for ten minutes; then squeeze out the water, and when dry chop and stew with butter, gravy, or, like spinach, beat it smooth, and serve round cutlets, or alone, with bread sippets as a garnish. Time , to boil, half an hour. Puree of Chestnuts Take 50 large chestnuts — those are the best which have no division, and, when the skin is removed, are entire. Take off the outer brown skin, and boil the chestnuts until the inner skin will come off easily, when it also must be re- moved. Having done this, put the chestnuts into a saucepan with sufficient white stock to cover them, and boil them gently until they are quite soft, when they must be pressed, while hot, through a wire sieve. The pulp must then be put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, 1 cupful of cream or new milk, half a cupful of the stock in which they were simmered, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir this over the fire until quite hot, 758 VEGETABLES when it may be placed in the middle of a dish of cutlets. Time, two hours. Sufficient for four or five persons. Compdte of Chestnuts Take 30. large chestnuts, peel off the outer brown skin, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. When the water is just on the point of boiling take them off, remove the second skin, and be careful not to break the chestnuts. Make a syrup with a breakfast-cup- ful of water and a quarter of a pound of sugar, adding a glass of sherry and the rind of half an orange or a lemon, cut very thin. Put the chest- nuts into this, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Strain the syrup over the chestnuts, and serve hot. Sift a little sugar over them. Time, about forty minutes. Stewed Chestnuts Remove the outer rind from sound chestnuts, then fry them in a little butter, when the inner skin may easily be freed from them. Put them into a saucepan with some good stock, and boil them until they are tender, but unbroken. The chestnuts should be removed from the gravy as soon as they are cooked, and served in a tureen, with a little white sauce poured over them. Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour and a half. To be served as a vegetable. VEGETABLES 759 Roasted Chestnuts Cut a little piece of the outer shell off each chestnut ; this is to prevent them bursting when hot. Boil them for about ten minutes ; do not allow them to cool, but put them into a tin in the oven, or into a Dutch oven before the fire, and let them remain until they are quite soft. Fold them in a napkin, and serve quite hot. Salt should be eaten with them. Time to bake, about ten minutes. Stuffed Sweet Peppers One pint force-meat made from cooked meat or chicken. Cut a lid from the top of the pep- pers after washing. Scoop the seeds and fill with force-meat on top, sprinkle with bread crumbs and a small piece of butter. Place in moderate oven and bake three-quarters of an hour. The lid is frequently replaced before be- ing put in the oven. The pepper can also be stuffed by cutting the pepper in half and re- moving seeds, then filling with force-meat, rounding and sprinkling with bread crumbs, and clarified butter and baking. A nut force-meat is also frequently used for the above. ' Creole Peppers Select half a dozen red or green sweet pep- pers, cut in half, and remove seed. Boil 1 cupful of rice, drain and dry. Use 1 cupful of canned 760 VEGETABLES tomatoes, or 6 fresh tomatoes, scald, peel, and chop, and add to the rice; season with 1 tea- spoonful salt and onion juice, or 1 small grated onion ; mix all together and fill the peppers ; f ry them in 6 tablespoonfuls hot oil. Then remove to baking-pan ; add % cupful of stock and bake three-quarters of an hour. Stewed Peppers Cut peppers in sections, remove seed, and boil in salted water one-half an hour. Take out, drain, put into saucepan l^ cupful of cream, season with salt, add 1 tablespoonful of butter, stir in peppers, and serve very hot on toast. Truffles The truffle is a kind of mushroom without roots, which is found at a considerable depth underground, principally in oak forests. As there is no appearance on the surface to indi- cate their presence underneath, pigs and dogs are employed to find them out, and when they begin to scratch the ground the men who are with them dig until they are found. There are three kinds — ^black, red, and white, and the dif- ference arises from the different degrees of ripeness to which the truffle has attained. The black, being the ripest, are the best. Truffles grow on the Continent much more abundantly than they do in England. Perigord, in the South VEGETABLES 761 of France, is quite celebrated for them. They are seldom eaten alone, but are used for flavoring pies, ragouts, and sauces; for stuffing poultry, and for garnishing dishes. When good they have an agreeable aroma, and are light and elastic. They are best when fresh, and lose much of their flavor when preserved. They are almost inordinately esteemed by epicures, and are very expensive. The passion for truffles is an acquired one ; it requires an education to un- derstand them properly, but those who have acquired the taste regard the truffle as the best of edible substances. Yet irreverent novices make light of them, and compare them to tur- nips flavored with tar, and young people seldom care for them. They are in season from Oc- tober to January, though bottled truffles may be bought at the best groceries at any time. Truffle Sauce Clean and peel 4 truffles, or use bottled truf- fles, and cut them into squares of a quarter of an inch each way. Put them into a stewpan with half a pint of good brown sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Add a glass- ful of sherry, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of strained lemon juice, and serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. Sufficient for four or five persons. 49 762 VEGETABLES Truffles aux Champagne On the subject of truffles prepared in this way, the late Alexandre Dumas' " Dictionnaire Gas- tronomique " waxes enthusiastic. *' What," he says, " can be more exhilarating, more divine, than truffles aux Champagne? Take a pound of truffles, pour a bottle of Ai mousseux into a saucepan ; throw in the truffles, together with a little salt, and let them boil in the wine for half an hour ; .then serve them hot on a snow- % cupful sugar, butter size of an egg, 1 cupful sweet milk, a pinch of salt, 1 cupful of corn meal, 1 cupful of flour, 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Bake half an hour. Southern Corn Pone 1 teacupful of cooked hominy — the smaller- sized kind. While it is hot stir in 1 table- spoonful of melted butter and 2 eggs beaten very light; stir in i/^ pint of sweet milk very gradually, then yellow corn meal enough to make a batter as thick as boiled custard. Add 1% teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and less than teaspoonful of salt. Bake in a hot oven three-quarters of an hour in a pudding-dish. Shortcake 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 pint milk. Sift the flour, salt, and powder together, rub in the butter cold; add the milk and mix into a smooth dough, just soft enough to handle; divide in half, and roll out 824 BREAD AND CAKES to the size of breakfast-plates ; lay on a greased baking-tin and bake in hot oven twenty min- utes; separate the cakes without cutting, as cutting makes them heavy. Strawberry Shortcake Pick, hull, wash, and drain berries. Sweeten, spread between bottom layers of short cake. Garnish top layer with large whole berries, dust with sugar, and serve with cream or custard. Raspberry Shortcake Prepare as for strawberry shortcake. Cherry Shortcake Make as for strawberry shortcake, usilig pitted sweet or tart cherries. Peach Shortcake Pare and slice peaches. Finish as for straw- berry shortcake. " Banana Shortcake Peel and slice bananas. Finish as for straw- berry shortcake. Huckleberry Shortcake 2 cupfuls sugar, 1/2 cupful butter, 1 teaspoon- ful salt, 1 pint milk, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking-powder sifted into 3 cupfuls jSour, 1 quart washed and well-drained huckleberries, more flour to make a very thick batter. Bake BREAD AND CAKES 825 in greased dripping-pan, break in squares, serve hot with butter. Angel Food 1% cupfuls of granulated sugar, 1 level cup- ful of lour, whites of 11 eggs, 1 level teaspoon- ful of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, and a pinch of salt. Spread 2 square papers on your table and place your sieve upon one of them. Have ready some sifted flour and put 1 level cupful in your sieve; to this add the sugar, cream of tartar, and salt, and sift through upon the paper. Place the empty sieve upon the other paper, pour the mixture into it, and so sift back and forth from one paper to the other five or six times. Then|kbeat the whites of the eggs to a stiff ff Qth ; pour the flour mixture into it from the paper, gradually but quickly, stirring lightly just enough to moisten all the flour ; a few strokes will suffice, then turn at once into an ungreased tin witb a tube in it, and bake about forty-five minutes. Success depends largely upon the baking. "A slow, gradual heat is best, but only care and practice will make perfect. Frosting Beat light the whites of 2 eggs, 1 cupful of confectioner's sugar; beat till stiff enough, for half an hour or more ; flavor, and spread on the cool cake, 53 826 BREAD AND CAKES Almond Cake y^ cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 4 eggs, % cupful almonds blanched (by pouring water on them until skins easily slip off) and cut in fine shreds, % teaspoonful extract bitter almonds, 1 pint flour, 1% teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 1 glass brandy, % cupful milk. Eub butter and sugar to smooth, white cream; add eggs, one at a time, beating three or four minutes after each. Sift flour and powder together, add to butter, etc., with almonds, extract of bitter almonds, brandy, and milk; mix into smooth, medium batter ; bake carefully in rather hot oven twenty minutes in a fluted mould. * Bride's Cake 1 scant cupful butter, 3 cupfuls sugar, 1 cup- ful milk, whites 12 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls baking- powder, 1 cupful corn starch, 3 cupfuls flour, 1/4 teaspoonful salt. Cream butter and sugar. Mix flour, baking-powder, and corn starch, and add alternately with milk and whipped whites. Flavor with vanilla or almond extract, and bake in loaf-tin lined with 4 thicknesses of paper; have oven moderate. Mocha Cake 1 cupful very strong coffee, 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 3 eggs, 11/2 pints flour, 11/2 teaspopnfuls baking-powder, 1 cupful stoned BREAD AND CAKES 827 raisins, cut in two, % cupful chopped citron, 10 drops each extract allspice and nutmeg, and % cupful milk. Rub the butter and sugar to a white cream ; add the eggs, 1 at a time, beat- ing three or four minutes after each. Sift together flour and powder, which add to the but- ter, etc., with the coffee, raisins, citron, milk, and extracts. Mix into a smooth batter. Cocoanut Layer Cake V2 cupful butter, 1% cupfuls sugar, whites 8 eggs, 2% cupfuls flour, % teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful va- nilla. Mix flour, salt, and baking-powder. Cream butter and sugar. Add vanilla; then, alternately, the flour and whipped whites. Beat hard; bake in 3 layer-cake pans. When cold put together with cocoanut filling. Sunshine Cakes Whites of 7 eggs ; yolks of 5 ; 1 cupful of fine granulated sugar ; 1 scant cupful of flour, meas- ured after sifting five times ; 14 teaspoonful of ci-eam of tartar; 1 teaspoonful of orange ex- tract. Beat yolks till thick, and set aside. Now add a pinch of salt and the crearri of tartar to the whites, and beat till very stiff; add sugar, beat thoroughly, then add flavoring and beaten yolks; beat lightly and carefully; stir in the flour. Bake in tube pan, in moderate oven, 828 BREAD AND CAKES forty to fifty minutes. Invert tHe pan to cool. Cakes for Musicale Cream % cupful butter, add % cupful sugar; beat to a cream; add % cupful sweet cream, 2 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, beaten yolks of 4 eggs, % cupful cocoanut, stiffly beaten whites, grated rind of half an prange. Bake in loaf; dee — bars, notes, etc., of chocolate icing, coated pel- lets, and citron. Chocolate Cream Cake % cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cup- ful of water, 3 cupfuls of sifted flour, 3 level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, whites of 4 eggs. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, continuing the cream- ing; then add the water and flour, a little at a time ; having the baking-powder sifted with the flour, continue stirring until the water and flour are all used. Now add the vanilla and well- beaten whites of the eggs, stir just enough to mix, and pour into 3 large or 4 small layer-cake pans, and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. Filling White of 1 egg, % teaspoonful of vanilla, Yz tablespoonful of cold water; add sugar until BREAD AND CAKES 829 thick enough to spread. Spread on top of each layer; melt a quarter of a cake of chocolate over steam and spread on top of white frosting on each layer, after the white frosting has be- come hard.^ Plain Layer Cake 1 cupful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 egg, 1 cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour, 2 tea- spoonfuls of baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla.. Mix like chocolate cream cake. Devil's Cake 1 cupful dark-brown sugar, % cupful butter, V^ cupful sweet milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, 2 cup- fuls flour, 2 eggs. Mix well. 1 cupful ch-oc- olate, 1/2 cupfiil milk, 7s cupful dark-brown sugar, yolk of 1 egg. Put in pan and boil slightly, then mix all together. Bake in layers and put together with white icing. Violette Cover flat side of lady fingers with white fon- dant, on which place candied violets, with dark citron stems; dip edges in candy syrup; ar- range in cups; unmould and fill with whipped cream, flavored, tinted violet, sweetened; gar- nish. Silver Cake 1 cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1/2 cupful sweet milk, whites of 8 eggs, 1 teaspoonful 830 BREAD AND CAKES cream of tartar, | teaspoon! ul of soda, 2| cup- fuls flo.ur. Mix like Bride's cake. Snow Cake % cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 1 cupful of corn starch, 2 cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Mix flour, corn starch, and baking-powder together; stir butter and sugar to a cream, add milk, then flour ; last add whites of 7 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake one hour. English Walnut Cake 2 cupfuls sugar, % cupful butter, % cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour, 5 eggs, 3 even teaspoon- fuls of baking-powder. Bake in layers and put icing between. Ice the top and put halves of English walnuts on white frosting. If desired, put nuts between the layers also. Use 1 pound nuts or more. Hickory-Nut Cake 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 of milk, 3 cupfuls flour, I cupful butter, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking- powder, 1 cupful nut-kernels, cut fine. Tried and not found wanting. Cake for Card Party 1 cupful molasses ; 1 whole egg ; yolk of extra one; 4 tablespoonfuls butter; i/^ cupful sour milk; 1 level teaspoonful soda in milk; 2 cup- fuls flour ; pinch salt. EoU out with flour, bake iJREAD AND CAKES 83J qliickly, ice with boiled icing, to whicli add 1 teaspoonful cinnamon; figures wMch represent the different suits of cards, cut from citron and candied cherries, are placed while the icing is soft. Caramel Cake % cupful of butter, 11/2 cupfuls of sugar, 1/2 cupful whites of eggs, 1 cupful cold water, 3 cup- fuls of flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. Cream butter and half sugar, beat whites of eggs, and then add rest of sugar and beat stiff. Then put two together, add flour and water al- ternately. Bake in shallow pan to cut in squares. Frosting 1 pound brown sugar, enough water to dis- solve; boil to a thread; butter size of an egg, teaspoonful vanilla. Beat after cooked. Marbled Cake Light Part. — V3 cupful sugar, Va cupful of butter, V3 cupful sweet milk, V3 teaspoonful soda, Va teaspoonful cream tartar, 2 whites of eggs, I'/a cups of flour. Stir butter and sugar to a cream, add milk, soda, and flout with cream tartar, and lastly stir in the eggs; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Dark Part.—^/^ cupful brown sugar, Vs cup- ful molasses, Vs cupful butter; stir well and 832 BREAD AND CAKES add Va cupful sour milk, '/a teaspoonful soda, IV3 cupfuls flour, and yolks of 2 eggs well beaten, or quite as well put in at the first; season with cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg, | teaspoonful each. Drop by spoonfuls alternately, and bake as a loaf half to three-quarters of an hour, or bake in layers, putting the browh part between the white layers with jelly or other good filling. Fruit Cake 1 pound granulated sugar, % pound butter, 1 pound flour, 8 eggs, 2 pounds raisins, 2 pounds currants, 14 pound candied orange peel, i/i pound candied lemon peel, V2 pound citron, 1 heaping tablespoonful cinnamon, % teaspoon- ful of cloves, 1 nutmeg, 3 teaspoonfuls soda, 2 tablespoonfuls grape juice, cream, butter, and sugar ; add the well-beaten yolks of eggs, spices, then sifted flour, reserving enough to mix with fruit, then soda mixed in grape juice ; then add whites, after beating very stiff, and last the fruit. Put buttered paper on tin. Bake ia & moderate oven three hours. Excellent Wedding Cake A wedding-cake is an expensive article to purchase, and if it is not wanted very large, may be made at home without much difficulty, and with a great saving of expense. It will im- BREAD AND CAKES 833 prove -with keeping — indeed, confectioners do not use their cakes until they have been made some months; and if a cake is cut into soon after it is made it will crumble. To make a wedding cake, first procure the following in- gredients: 1% pounds of flour, li/^ pounds of butter, % pound of candied lemon, % pound of candied orange, % pound of candied citron, 1 pound of dried cherries, 1% pounds of dried currants (if the cherries cannbt easily be procured, they may be omitted, and 2% pounds of currants used instead), 8 ounces of almonds, 8 eggs, the rind of 4 oranges or of 2 lemons rubbed upon sugar, half an ounce of spices, consisting of powdered cinnamon, grated nutmeg, and powdered cloves in equal propor- tions, a teaspoonful of salt, and a small tum- blerful of brandy. If objected to, the brandy may be omitted, and another egg may be added. Wash, pick, and dry the currants, cut the cher- ries into moderate-sized pieces, slice the can- died peel into thin shreds, blanch and pound the almonds, or cut them into very small pieces, and crush the flavored sugar to powder. Put the butter into a large bowl and beat it to cream, either with a wooden spoon or with the hand. Add very gradually the sugar, flour, and eggs, and when they are thoroughly mixed work in the rest of the ingredients. Put them in, a 834 BREAD AND CAKES little at a time, and beat the cake between every addition. It should be beaten fully three-quar- ters of an hour. Line mould with double folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, put it in a moderately heated over. Put paper under the mould above the cake, to keep it from burning, and keep the oven at an even tempera- ture until it is done enough. If the cake is to be iced, first prepare the ahnond part: Take half a poimd of almonds, throw them into boil- ing water, and skin them. Pound them in a mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water, 1 pound of fine white sugar, and as much white of egg as will make a soft, stiff paste. Spread this over the top of the cake, and keep it from the edge as much as possible. Put it in a cool oven, or in a warm place, till it is dry and ha,rd. To make the ' sugar icing, put 2 pounds of icing sugar into a bowl and work into it the whites of 2, or' if necessary, 3, or even 4 eggs. The whites must not be whisked, but thrown in as they are. Work the mixture to a stiff, shiny paste, and whilst working it add occasionally a drop of lemon juice. Be care- ful to obtain icing sugar. If a drop of liquid blue is added, it will make it look whiter. The icing will need to be worked vigorously to make a paste which will not run, and the fewer eggs taken the better. The cake ought not to be iced BREAD AND CAKES 835 until a short time before it is wanted, as it may get dirty. The icing should be spread evenly over with hands wetted with cold water, then smoothed with an ivory knife, and it should be put in a gentle oven to harden. It may be ornamented with little knobs of icing placed around the edge ; and on the day of the wedding a wreath of white flowers and green leaves may be placed round it by way of ornament. If any- thing more elaborate is required, a pretty centre ornament may be added. Time to bake the cake, about six hours. Huckleberry Cake 1 pint of berries, 1 cupful of sugar. Rub into the sugar 2 rounding tablespoonfuls of soft butter, 1 cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour, with 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder sifted into the flour, a very little salt, and nutmeg. Add another cupful of flour to the berries and stir in last. Serve warm as dessert or tea (lake, with sugar and butter. Cream Cake % cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 1% pints flour, 5 eggs, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, 1 cupful milk. Rub the butter and sugar to a white, light cream. Add the eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes after each addition. Sift the flour with the powder, which add to the 836 BREAD AND CAKES butter, etc., and tlie milk. Mix into rather thin batter, and bake in jelly-cake tins, well greased, in hot oven fifteen minutes. Wlien cold spread pastry cream between the layers, and ice the top with clear icing. Gold Cake % cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, yolks 10 eggs, 1% pints flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking- powder, 1 cupful thia cream, 1 teaspoonful each extract lemon and nutmeg. Rub the butter and sugar to a white cream; add the yolks, three at a time, beating a little after each addition ; add the flour sifted with the powder, the thin cream, and the extracts ; mix into a pretty firm batter ; bake in a pape^lined cake-tin, in a steady oven, fifty minutes. Electric Cake Sift 1 pound of flour in bowl ; add 1% cupfuls yeast (li/4 cakes of compressed yeast), a table- spoonful of molasses, and % cupful of warm water. Add these to the flour, working into a dough. Let rise three hours. Cream 1 pound of butter with 1 pound pulverized sugar: add 1/^ cupful milk. Beat 7 eggs light; add these to batter ; sugar ; mix alternately with ^' of a pound of flour. Beat light, then add 1 tea- spoonful of ground cinnamon, y^ teaspoonful of ground mace, and half nutmeg, grated. BREAD AND CAKES 837 When the dough is light add it to the oake batter ; turn into a greased tin. Bake one hour in moderate oven. Fortune Cake Cream I14 cupfuls sugar and % cupful but- ter ; add juice and rind of half a lemon ; sift in 2 oupfuls of flour, into which has been mixed 1/4 teaapoonful of baking-soda. Then add the stiffly beaten whites of 7 eggs, I/2 cupful candied citron, % cupful blanched almonds. Mix the batter well, and last, add a ring, a dime,^ a thimble, and a heart. Jelly Cake Beat 3 eggs well, whites and yolks separately ; take a oupfnl of fine white sugar and beat in well with yolks, and 1 cupful sifted flour, stirred in gently; then stir in the whites, a little at a time, 1 teaspoohful baking-powder, and 1 table- spoonful milk ; pour into three jelly-cake plates and bake from five to ten minutes in a well- heated oven; when cold spread with currant jelly, place one layer on top of 'the other, and fiiffc powdered sugar on top. Lemon Cake 1 oupM butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 7 eggs, 1^ pints flour, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, 1 tea- spoonful extract lemon. Eub to a light cream the butter and sugar; add tiie eggs, two at a 838 BREAD AND CAKES time, beating five minutes after eack addition; add the flour sifted with the powder, and the extract; mix into a medium batter; bake in paper-lined tin, in a moderate oven, fprty min- utes. ' Marshmaliow Cake 1 egg, 11/2 cupfuls sugar, 1 tablespoonful but- ter, 1 cupful milk, 2 cupfuls flour, % teaspoon- ful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. Mix flour, salt, and baking-powder. Cream butter, add a quarter of the sugar, and beat. Add beaten egg and remainder of sugar, and beat four minutes. Add alternately flour and milk, beating well. Add vanilla, and bake in layer- oake pans in quick oven. Cut fine Yz pound marshmallows. Spread them between cake layers, and stand in open oven till they melt. Orange Cake % cupful butter, 2 cupfuls sugar, 5 eggs, 1 pint flour, 1% teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 1 teaspoonful extract orange, 1 cupful milk. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream; add the eggs, two at a time, beating five minutes after each addition; add the flour sifted with the powder, the milk, and extract; mix into a smooth, fine batter, put in a paper-lined cake-tin, and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. When cool, cover the top with the following preparation: BREAD AND CAKES 839 Whip the whites of 3 eggs to a dry froth; then carefully mix in 4 cupfuls sugar, the juice, grated rind, and soft pulp, free of white pith and seeds, of 2 sour oranges. Rum Cake Take the yolks of 12 eggs, beat them up, and add three-quai:ters of a pint of cream, the sahae quantity of rum, and sugar to taste ; add also the grated peel of a lemon. Butter a form, pour the mixture in, and bake till it is dry at the top ; the cake may be iced or only strewn with sif;ted sugar, and ornamented with preserved chei'ries, etc., or whipped cream may be laid on the top. Thanksgiving Surprise Bake sheet of coffee fruit-cake; when cold cut into rounds ; cut same size pieces from sheet of Bavarian cream; place on top; cover with red raspberry jam; then with a meringue; brown delicately; garnish with raisins cooked in sherry; flavor Bavarian with vanilla and have it firm before cutting. Sponge Cake Take half a pound of loaf sugar, rub the rind of a lemon on 2 or .3 of the lumps, and crush the whole to powder. Then take 5 eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and beat the latter for twenty minutes; then shake in the sugar 840 BREAD AND CAKES gradually, and beat together. Stir in 6 ounces of flour, with, about 20 drops of the essence of almonds, vanilla, and lemon. Beat the whites to a solid froth, and add them to the rest. Fill a well-oiled tin about half-full, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about an hour. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. Dark Fruit Cake 2 cupfuls butterj 2 cupfuls sugar, 12 eggs, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, % teaspoonful salt, 1 pound currants, 1 pound sliced citron, 3 pounds seeded raisins, 1 pound chopped figs, 1/2 cupful any kind of wine, 2 tablespoonfuls strained lemon juice, 2 te^a- spoonfuls cinnamon, % teaspoonful each cloves and mace, % teaspoonful each allspice and nut- meg. Sift together flour, salt, baking-powder, and spices. Dredge fruit thoroughly. Cream butter and sugar, add beaten yolks and lemon juice. Alternate flour and wine, beat for ten minutes. Add whipped whites. Stir in pre- pared fruit. Line loaf pans with 4 thicknesseB paper ; pour in batter. Bake in slow oven from three to five hours, covering pans with paper until two-thirds baked. Citron Cake Mix the well-beaten yolks of 6 eggs with half a pound of pounded and sifted sugar, and 10 BREAD AND CAKES 841 ounces of fine flour ; add half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, 4 ounces of candied citron chopped small, a wineglassful of brandy, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Mix thoroughly, pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Pound Cake Beat a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Beat into it a pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted, upon part of which, before it was pounded, the rind of 2 oranges or lemons has been rubbed, a pound of dried flour, a pinch of salt, 8 eggs which have been thoroughly whisked, the whites and yolks separately, and a glass of wine, brandy, or rose-water. Beat the mixture for twenty minutes, and pour it into a tin which has been lined with butteted paper. Bake in a well-heated, though not fierce, oven, and, if possible, do not increase the heat until the cake is baked. Though the cake must be turned about that it may be equally browned, the oven door must not be opened oftener than is absolutely necessary; and if the cake gets too highly colored before it is done enough, a piece of paper should be laid upon it. In order to ascertain whether it is sufficiently baked, put a skewer to the bottom of it, and if it comes 54 842 BREAD AND CAKES out dry and clean the cake is done ; if moist, it must be returned at once to the oven. When the cake is done it should be turned out at once and placed upon its side, or else on a sieve, which has been turned upside do.wn, until it is cold, and the paper should not be removed until the cake is to be used. This cake may be made either larger or smaller by increasing the quan- tity of the ingredients in their due propor- tions ; and it may be made less rich by using a larger quantity of flour. A pound of picked and dried currants is frequently added to the other ingredients, and the flavor may be varied by the addition of candied peel, — ^lemon or orange, — blanched and chopped almonds, pis- tachio kernels, dried cherries, or plums. Time to bake, one hour and a half to two hours. Currant Cake 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful dugar, 4 eggs, 1 tea- spoonful baking-powder, 1 piat flour, 1% cup- fuls currants, washed and picked, 2 teaspoonfuls extract cinnamon, and 1 teaspoonful extract lemon. Rub the butter and sugar to a white, light cream. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating a few minutes after each. Add the flour sifted with the powder, the currants, and the extracts. Mix into a medium batter. Bake in paper-lined cake-tin fifty minutes in a moderate oven. BREAD AND CAKES 843 Honigkuchen (from Holland) Mix with. 1 pound of raised bread dough, 1 pound strained honey, % cupful' butter, V^ ounce cinnamon, pinch cloves, and nutmeg, grated rind of 1 lemon, 14 pound chipped citron, 1 ounce candied ginger, yolks of 4 eggs, whites of 2 ; % teaspoonful soda ; 1 cupful flour. Bake in loaf; decorate with almond fancy meringues. Lemon Cheese Cake Beat 6 eggs, 1 pound sugar, % pound of but- ter, grated rind of 3 lemons, and the juice of 6. Then cook in a double boiler until like honey. When cold turn into pie-crust shell. Trim with fancy crust pieces, and bake in oven. Cheese Cake (from Holland) Line pan with " kuchen " dough; let rise. Rub 1 quart cottage cheese smooth with 1 table- spoonful butter, 1/2 cupful sugar, yolks of 3 eggs, pinch salt, grated lemon peel ; add 1/2 cup- ful currants, whites of eggs beaten stiff, 1 cup- ful cream ; pour into lined pains and bake ; cover with whipped cream in frills when cold. Russian Punch Tart Bake loaf of sponge cake. Flavor with arrack; remove centre, and crumble. Thin crab-apple jelly with a little brandy; add crumbs ; fill cake-'shell ; cover with icing flavored 844 BREAD AND CAKES with, almonds ; decorate with ^^alnuts and cher- ries, pineapple, orange, and other candied fruits. FILLINGS AND ICINGS Cream Filling 2 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls milk, 3 heaping tablespoonfuls corn starch, yolks 5 eggs, 1 table- spoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls extract vanilla. Scald milk in double boiler, add corn starch, dis- solved in little cold milk, stir till smooth. Add sugar, cook ten minutes. Add egg yolks, cook four minutes, take off, and add vanilla. Cocoanut FilKng 1 cupful grated cocoanut, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful milk, 2 eggs. Cook all together five minutes. Chocolate Cream Filling 1/^ cake chocolate, grated, % cupful milk, i/o cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful butter, pinch salt, 1 teaspoonful extract vanilla. Boil gently till thick. Chocolate Filling 1/4 cake chocolate, grated, % cupful milk, yolk 1 egg, 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful extract vanilla. Boil sugar, chocolate, and milk till thickened, add egg yolk, cook two minutes ; take from fire, add vanilla. BREAD AND CAKES 845 Caramel Filling for Cake 1 pound brown sugar, i/^ cupful cream or not quite 1/2 cupful milk, lump of butter size of a small egg. Boil five minutes; flavor to taste with vanilla. Beat until cool. Boiled Icing Boil 1 cupful granulated sugar with % cupful water till it ropes when dropped from fork; pour gradually over stiffly whipped whites of 2 eggs, beating hard. Add flavoring, and use at once. Chocolate Water Icing Melt 3 ounces fine chocolate in a few spoon- fuls water until creamy. Boil 2 eupfuls granu- lated sugar with 1 cupful water, without stir- ring, till it can be rolled in soft ball between fingers in cold water. Take from fire, stir for a moment till it becomes slightly cloudy. Add chocolate, and use at once on cake. Maple Sugar Frosting Boil % pound broken maple sugar with 3 tablespoonfuls water till dissolved and thick enough to rope when dropped from fork. Pour gradually on whipped whites of 2 eggs. Beat till thick enough to spread. Marshmallow Frosting Heat 2 tablespoonfuls milk and 6 tablespoon- fuls sugar over fire ; boil 6 minutes without stir- 846 BREAD AND CAKES ring. In double boiler heat i/4 pound cut marshmallows. Wben very soft add 2 table- spoonfuls boiling water, cook till smooth. Beat in hot sugar ; keep beating till partly cool, add V3 teaspoonful extract vanilla. Use at ' once. GINGERBREADS Soft Gingerbread % cupful butter, 2 cupfuls molasses, 1 cupful sugar, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 cupful milk, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder ; ginger and cloves to taste. Gingerbread 1 cupful brown sugar and ? tablespoonfuls butter, stirred to a cream ; add 1 cupful New Or- leans molasses, 2 eggs ; mix well; stir dry 2 tea- spoonfuls baking-powder in 2% cupfuls flour; put in ginger or spice to taste ; bake in 1 loaf 1 hour. Sour-Milk Gingerbread 1 cupful each molasses, sugar, shortening, and sour milk; 3 eggs, 4 cupfuls flour, 1 table- spoonful ginger, 2 teaspoonfuls soda, 1 tea- spoonful lemon, and cinnamon. If you use lard, use teaspoonful salt. Colonial Gingerbread Put together 1 cupful Porto Rico molasses, % cupful butter (sbftened), % 1/2, pound citron, % pound candied lemon, 4 eggs, 1 nut- meg, 1 tablespoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 1/^ teaspoonful baking-powder, and enough flour to drop nicely on buttered tins. They should be as large as a silver dollar when baked; cut ingredients very fine. 852 BREAD AND CAKES DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS Doughnuts Beat well together 2 eggs and 2 cupfuls gran- ulated sugar. Add 1 pt. milk, tablespoon melted lard, 1 qt. flour in which are mixed and sifted 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder, one teaspoonfuJ salt, and 1 grated nutmeg. Beat well, add more flour to make a soft dough. Eoll out % inch thick, cut in rings or small balls, and fry brown in a deep kettle of smoking-hot fat. German Doughnuts Scald 1 pint milk ; pour hot over 1 pint flour, and beat till smooth; add I/2 teaspoonful salt, and let cool. Add beaten yolks 4 eggs, 1 table- spoonful melted butter, 1 teaspoonful flavoring, % cupful sugar, beaten whites of eggs, 1 cupful flour mixed with 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder, and more flour to make a soft dough. KoU, cut, and fry. Crullers 1% cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful milk, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, melted; 1 teaspoonful vanilla, 1 teaspoonful powdered cinnamon, % teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder mixed with 2 cupfuls flour, more flour to make a soft dough. Roll out, cut in squares, cut slits in each with jagging-iron, and braid together. Fry in smoking-hot fat. BREAD AND CAKES 853 Fried Cakes Cream 1 cupful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls un- melted lard. Add 2 eggs, l^ teaspoonfuls grated nutmeg, 1% cupfuls sweet milk, 1 level teaspoonful baking-soda, 2 level teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, and flour enough to make a soft dough. Fry golden 'brown in deep fat; drain, and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Swanenhalse (from Holland) Make eclair batter ; bake in S shape ; fill with sardelles free from bones and skin, seasoned with chopped sour pickles, Dutch mustard, and mashed boiled egg yolks; cream cheese gar- nishes each. SALADS AND RELISHES Poet's Recipe for Salad * ** Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, Softness and smoothness to the salad give ; Of mordant mustard add a single spoon. Distrust the condiment which bites too soon; Yet deem it not, thou man of taste, a fault To add a double quantity of salt; Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town; The flavor needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs; Let onions' atoms lurk within the bowl. And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. Oh, great and glorious ! Oh, herbaceous meat ! 'Twould tempt the dying anchoret to eat; Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, And dip his finger in the salad-bowl. Then, though green turtle fail, though venison's tough. And ham and turkey are not boiled enough, * Generally ascribed to the Rev. Sydney Smith. 854 SALADS AND RELISHES 855 Serenely full, the epicure may say: ' Fate cannot harm me— I have dined to-day.' " SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS French Dressing— No. 1 Rub the sides of a bowl with garlic or an onion cut in halves. Put in 14 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 saltspoonful of pepper ; then pour in slowly 4 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil, stirring constantly. When the salt is dissolved, add 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar or lemon juice. Mix thoroughly and use at once. Italian Dressing Put in a bowl % teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, or % saltspoonful of paprika, and one tablespoonful of tomato catsup ; add gradually, stirring constq,ntly, 4 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil. Add 1 clove of garlic mashed to a pulp, and 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 'and stir until well blended. Sweet Salad Dressing Eub smoothly together 2 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil or butter, V3 o^ ^ cupful of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 14 teaspoonful of salt, and 1 dessertspoonful of corn starch. Let this boil for a moment or two over a fire, then add 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. When cold, pour over the salads. 856 SALADS AND RELISHES If a yellow color is desired, add the beaten yolk of an egg just as the dressing is removed from the fire, pouring it over the egg, a little at a time, stirring well. When the egg is used, a little less water and more lemon juice may be required. This dressing is an especially good one to use on finely sliced apples, apples and celery, apples and ripe bananas, strawberries and bananas, and on pineapple and oranges. If the dressing is put on as soon as the fruit is sliced, the fruit will not turn dark. By using a cup of strained stewed tomatoes in place of the water in this dressing, another palatable and very pretty dressing is made. Orange Dressing Take % cupful of orange juice, i^ cupful lemon juice, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little grated rind of the orange. Stir and beat all together until the sugar is dissolved; the dressing is then ready for use. Lemon Dressing Take 1 cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of rice flour, the juice of 1 lemon, and a very little of the grated rind. Sweeten to taste; if to be used with very sweet fruits only a little sugar is best, but for acid fruits more sweet- SALADS AND RELISHES 857 ening will be needed. Boil for a few min- utes, and allow it to get very cold before using. French Dressing-No. 2 Rub the inside of a bowl with onion. Mix % teaspoonful of pepper and 1 teaspoonful of salt with 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and slowly add 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Beat well, then add 3 n/ore tablespoonfuls of the oil, and another tablespoonful of vinegar. Con- tinue beating until the oil and vinegar are well mixed and the dressing is of a creamy appear- ance. Use the dressing as soon as it is mixed, as the parts separate quickly. Mayonnaise Dressing Have everything as cold as possible, and in warm weather it is well to set the plate in which the dressing is made on a piece of ice. Into a cold soup plate drop the yolk of egg, squeeze upon it 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice and stir until well mixed. Add, drop by drop, a cupful of salad-oil, beating constantly until the mixture becomes quite thick, and being o*,reful not to reverse the motion, as the oil and egg may separate. Season with % teaspoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of mustard, and a dash of cayenne pepper. Thin the dressing with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. . 55 858 SALADS AND RELISHES Cream Salad Dressing Beat 2 eggs until very light ; add 1 teaspoon- ful of sugar, % teaspoonful of salt, l^ salt- spoonful of mustard, a pinch of red pepper, and 1 teaspoonful of butter. When well mixed, add 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and cook over boil- ing water until it thickens. Remove from the stove and thin with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of rich, sweet cream. Sour Cream Dressing Beat for five minutes 1 cupful of very cold rich, sour cream, adding, as you do so, % tea- spoonful of lemon juice, and 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar. This dressing is good served with thin slices of chilled cucumbers. Whipped Cream Dressing Mix together 3 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoon- ful of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful each of sugar and mustard, and a dash of cayenne pepper. When ready to serve, add 1 cupful .of cream that has been whipped very stiff. Mayonnaise Cream Dressing Make a mayonnaise dressing of the yolk of 1 egg, lemon juice, salad-oil, and seasoning, as directed before. When ready to serve, add % SALADS AND RELISHES 859 cupful of whipped cream to 1 cupful of the mayonnaise dressing. Boiled Salad Dressing Mix 1 tablespoonful of sugar, % teaspoonful of salt, 1/4 of a teaspoonful of pepper, and 1 small teaspoonful of French mustard, with 3 teaspoonfuls of melted butter or olive-oil. Beat 3 eggs until light, then add 1 cupful of milk, stir well, then add the seasoning with the melted butter. When ready to cook add % of a cupful of vinegar and place over boiling water. Stir until it thickens, then remove from the fire and set in a pan of cold water. Beat for two minutes. This will keep for several days. Cream Boiled Dressing Cream 2 tablespoonfuls of butter with 1 tea- spoonfid of sugar, 1 of salt, % teaspoonful of mustard and a dash of cayenne. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs and put them in a double boiler ; add slowly 4 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, beating constantly until thick. Remove from the fire, add the butter creamed with the seasoning, beat well, and when cold add a good half cupful of whipped cream. Tarragon Vinegar for Salad Dressings rill a. jar with 1 pint of tarragon leaves, 1 pint of vinegar, 3 peppercorns, and 2 cloves. 860 SALADS AND RELISHES In a couple of weeks, strain and preSs through a doth. Bottle again, and seal. yirs. Hotchkin's Boiled Salad Dressing 2 eggs ; 2 tablespoonfuls sugar ; 8 tablespoon- fuls vinegar, or if very sour, 6 of vinegar and cold water ; % teaspoonful salt ; 14 saltspoonful paprika ; 1 level teaspoonful dry mustard ;- 1 large tablespoonful butter ; 14= to % cupful rich cream, either sweet or sour. Mix the dry in- gredients — sugar, salt, mustard, and paprika — together, rubbing the mustard well into the sugar; this is the easiest and quickest way of blending the mustard thorouglily.' Beat the egg, using a Dover egg-beater ; add the seasoned sugar and, the vinegar, still beating it^ Pour the mixture into a double boiler with the water in the lower pan boiling briskly ; add the butter and still beat with the egg-beater until it is of the consistency^ of a boiled custard, taking care that it does not cook until it separates, and beat- ing and stirring it down from the sides of the boiler that all parts of it may get beaten smooth. Turn out, and when cool put in the refriger- ator, and when thoroughly chilled, or just be- fore serving, add the cream, beating well. If kept in the refrigerator in a glass or other covered jar it will keep for two weeks. SALADS AND RELISHES 86J If the flavor of onion is liked, peel a small one and put in when the dressing is put on to cook, and take it out as soon as done. This gives a slight, but undefinable flavor, which is just enough. Summer Salads At the season of the year when the system demands an abundance of water to supply its needs, the green foods provided by nature meet that demand. The salad is the prince of the menu, and though the dinner may be perfect in every de- tail, it is incomplete without a good salad. Vegetables and leaves for salads need to be perfectly fresh, crisp, and tender; they should be carefully examined, and all bruised and tough leaves discarded. For mixing a salad there is nothing better than the salad knife and fork of boxwood. The bowl in which thfe salad is to be mixed should be large. It is always best not to season a salad until a few minutes before it is to be served. Many salads deteriorate by standing. For the dressing of nearly all salads, both an oil and an acid are essential. The term salad is applied to cold meat dishes mixed with lettuce or celery and seasoned like a salad. Chicken and celery, beef, mutton, or fish dressed with mayonnaise dressing are sal- 862 SALADS AND RELISHES ads. Fruits cut in slices and dressed with syrups or liqueurs are known as " fruit salads." With a good understanding of several simple dressings almost any number of salads may be made by changing and mixing flavorings and ingredients. With a little ingenuity combined with artistic taste one may have a different salad every day. Lettuce Salad A German Recipe Prepare 2 large lettuces. Wash, drain, and shred them finely, and put them into the salad bowl. Cut 4 ounces of bacon into dice, fry these with a finely minced onion for five or six min- utels, and shake the pan over the fire to prevent them browning. Add to the bacon a little salt (the amount will depend upon the quality of the bacon), % teaspoonful of pepper, and 1 table- spoonful of vinegar; pour all over the lettuce, and mix thoroughly. Endive, with Winter Salad An ornamental, and wholesome dish of salad may be made in winter principally by the aid of this plant. Only a little cress, celery, and beet- root will be necessary to form a striking contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which may be arranged {en bouquet) in the centre, or SALADS AND RELISHES 863 interspersed with the other materials through the bowl. Surprise Salad Carefully cut a slice from the top of a well- ripened tomato, remove the seeds and part of the inner portion, and fill with any salad; re- place the slice of tomato, and serve with a gar- nish of cut lemon. Lettuce Lemon Salad Arrange a dish of crisp lettuce leaves, with a generous portion of dressing made by stirring together equal quantities of lemon juice, sugar, and water until the sugar is dissolved. Mint Lemon Salad This is made the same as lettuce lemon salad, with a few leaves of shredded fresh mint scat- tered among the lettuce leaves, or put into the dressing five or ten minutes before serving. Lemon points, or slices of lemon, may be used for garnishing any of the salads. Lettuce Salad with Egg Dressing Eub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs through a colander; salt to taste, and make a paste by adding 1 dessertspoonful of olive-oil; mix thor- oughly, and dilute by adding gradually 1/2 tea- cupful of lemon juice and % teacupful of water. Pour over the lettuce. This amount 864 SALADS AND RELISHES of dressing is sufficient for a large-sized dish of salad. Cucumber-and-Tomato ^alad Place sliced crisp cucumbers irregularly on a leaf of lettuce. On these lay slices of ripe red tomatoes, and serve with either French or may- onnaise dressing. The delicate green of the cucumber, combined with the lettuce of another shade, and the red tomato, has a pretty effect. If yellow tomatoes are obtainable, they will add a novelty to the effect. Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad Pick the lettuce apart and place it in your salad bowl. Pare your tomatoes and cut them into eighths; then lay on the bed of lettuce leaves and pour French dressing over them. Bean Salad Mix 2 cupfuls of cold cooked beans with 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. Arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves and garnish the top with 1 tablespoonful each of chopped chives and capers, and 1 cupful of celery. Pour over some French dressing, and serve. Independence Day Salad— No. 1 Make balls of red tomato jelly by cooking the tomatoes, straining and combining it with gel- atine. Serve on a blue platter or salad bowl SALADS AND RELISHES 865 on a bed of silvery white endive, using a French dressing. (No. 2) Use the white hearts of lettuce, making the leaves into little nests on a blue platter or shal- low bowl. Into each nest put a small round to mato, scalded and peeled, and then chilled. Garnish the edge with round red radishes, with the peeling cut into points and turned back to show the white. Pour over it a French dress- ing. Chicory Salad Wash the chicory, trim the ends, leaving each piece about three inches long. ^Put in a bowl y^ teaspoonful of . salt, 1 teaspoonful of grated onion, and 1 saltspoonful of pepper ; mix, and add 4 tablespoonfuls of olive-oil; rub until the salt is dissolved ; add 1 tablespoonful of tarra- gon vinegar ; mix well and pour over the chicory, and serve at once. PimoIa-and-Cheese Salad ^ Break up 2 square cream cheeses and mix with 2 dozen olives and 6 pimentos, both chopped rather fine, or, use with 2 dozen pimo- las, which are olives stuffed with pimentos; pack closely into a pan and put on ice, and when it is to be used cut in strips and served on let- tuce with French dressing. The contrasting colors of the green olives, the scarlet pimentos, 866 SALADS AND RELISHES and the white cheese make the effect most at- tractive. Lettuce Salad Cut the lettuce in quarters, from the bottom. Eemove the leaves carefully without mashing or pressing them. Wash each leaf and dry it on a clean, soft towel; arrange them loosely in the salad-bowl. Sprinkle over chopped chives, parsley, or onion. Leave it on the ice until ready to serve ; have the oil and vinegar brought to the table with it. Dust the salad with salt and pepper. Eub the spoon with garlic or onion, measure the oil, pour it over the lettuce, mix and toss with a salad fork and spoon until the oil is evenly distributed. Then pour over the vinegar, toss again, and serve. Tomato Baskets with Cucumber Jelly Cut cucumber and tomato pulp into pieces, stew tender, pass through sieve, season with white pepper, salt, and vinegar. To 1 cupful of piilp add % t6aspoonful gelatine, dissolved in a little water. Let it become stiff, cut up in dice, and serve in tomato basket. Dress first with a little French dressing ; then on top put 1 spoon- ful of mayonnaise. Salad Whales Cut slices from the tops of cucumbers, remove inside pulp ; mix with celery, tomato cubes, nas- SALADS AND RELISHES 867 turtium seeds, lobster, and mayonnaise; refill shells and place lids on ; cut mouth in one end ; large black-headed pins for eyes ; tail of green paper. Tomato Jelly Salad Season a can of tomatoes with 2 cloves, i/^ bay leaf, and % tfeaspoonful each of salt and paprika. Boil for fifteen minutes, then add 1 tablespoonful of gelatine dissolved in % cupful of water. Strain into small moulds, and when cold and firm turn out on lettuce, and garnish with 2 cupfuls of chopped celery, mixed with mayonnaise. Tomato-and-Corn Salad Peel 6 ripe, firm tomatoes, cut off the top and scoop out the centre with a spoon. Fill the hol- lowed tomatoes with cold boiled corn, cut from the cob, and mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Place the tomatoes on a bed of lettuce leaves and leave on ice until wanted. Tomato-and-Peanut Salad Prepare the tomatoes as directed above. Blanch 1 pint of roasted peanut meats by pour- ing boiling water over them. Skin, and when cold pound in a mortar and mix with mayon naise. Fill the tomatoes with this and serve on lettuce. 868 SALADS AND RELISHES Tomatoes with Whipped Cream Peel and halve firm ripe tomatoes, then set on ice for an hour or so. Place them on a bed of lettuce leaves, sprinkle with salt, and put a heaping spoonful of whipped cream on each half. Frozen Tomato Salad Strain 1 quart of cooked tomatoes and season with salt, paprika, sugar, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon peel. Freeze until firm in apple- shaped moulds. Cover with mayonnaise dress- ing, and serve at once. Rainbow Salad Two-quart mould. 1 pint each of tomato, cucumber, orange and lemon jelly. Pimolas, and hard-boiled eggs, white in bottom of mould; turn layer of tomato jelly in; when firm, al- ternate layers of others; scoop, out centre, fill with cooked sweetbreads and mayonnaise. Cauliflower Salad in Red-Pepper Cases Boil a cauliflower until tender, or use one boiled the day previous. Separate the flowerets without breaking them too small. Take me- dium-sized, round red peppers, cut a slice from the stem end and scoop out the inside, arrange them on leaves of crisp pale green lettuce leaves to form a neSt around the peppers. Fill the cavity with the cauliflower, stems downward, SALADS AND RELISHES 869 and put on the top of each a spoonful of thick mayonnaise or boiled dressing. Keep on the ice until ready to serve. It is a good plan to put a spoonful of the dressing inside the pep- pers before putting in the cauliflower; there will then be sufficient without putting enough on the top to hide the pretty effect of the combi- nation of color in the cauliflower and pepper. Cold Slaw Take a solid young white cabbage and shred fine. Make the following dressing. Heat % pint vinegar and put into it 1 tablespoonful each of sugar, butter, 1 saltspoonful celery salt, 1 of pepper, and 1 of salt. Take from the fire and stir in 1 cupful of scalded milk, to which have been added 2 well-beaten eggs. Mix in with the shredded cabbage in a salad bowl. Set on ice, and serve very cold. Cold slaw is frequently dressed with plain vinegar dressing, and salt, pepper, and paprika. Nasturtium Salad Cut the heart of a large bunch of celery very fine, and add to it 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley and 6 blades of chives. Mix with a French dressing, then stir in lightly the petals of 10 or 12 nasturtium blossom^. Put into a salad dish lined with crisp lettuce leaves, and garnish with nasturtium leaves and blossoms. 870 SALADS AND RELISHES This makes a very attractive salad if garnished elaborately with the leaves and blossoms. Dandelion Salad Select the young tender leaves of the dande- lion. Wash well, and lay in ice water for an hour. Drain, and dry by laying them between the folds of a napkin. Turn into a chilled dish and mix lightly.with a French dressing. Serve at once. Cucumber Saiad Select 3 firm cucumbers, peel and cut into halves lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds, and then lay them on ice for half an hour. Make a filling of very finely chopped celery and blanched walnut meats, also chopped. Mix thoroughly with a French dressing, then fill the cucumber shells about fifteen minutes before serving, and place a piece of parsley at each end of the stuffed cucumbers. Sweetbreads-and-Cucumber Salad Let a pair of sweetbreads lie in French dress- ing for an hour. Chill, drain, and mix with an equal quantity of sliced cucumber. Stir a lit- tle whipped cream lightly into a French dress- ing and pour over the sweetbreads and cucum- bers. SALADS AND RELISHES 871 Chiffonade Salad Have 1 cupful each of lettuce, celery, and cMcory cut into shreds, and 1 tablespoonful each of chopped beets, onion, parsley, tarra- gon, and jsweet red pepper. Mix all together with a French dressing, and serve on lettuce leaves with a garnish of sliced tomatoes. Spinach Salad Boil a peck of spinach, season, and mould in 6 claret glasses. Arrange 6 slices of cold boiled tongue or ham on lettuce leaves. Turn out the contents of each claret glass on a slice of the meat. Cover with French dressing, and garnish with boiled eggs. French Salad It would be difficult to particularize a French salad. It is composed of everything or any- thing. Many improvised dishes of salad, such as beans, potatoes, cauliflower, and celery (cooked), are served at a Frencb table, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped tarra- gon, or a little tarragon vinegar. Fish salads, too, are highly relished, namely, the remains of any solid fish, such as cod, sole, or turbot, for which the following sauce will be found excel- lent, as it will be also for a lettuce or other vege- table salad : Bruise the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs with a wooden spoon, and moisten with a 872 SALADS AND RELISHES raw egg ; put this egg-mixture into a bowl, with 2 -saltspoonfuls of salt, a little pepper, and a pinch of cayenne ; add by degrees oil and vine- gar, alternately, until the required quantity, 3 tablespoonfuls of oil and one of vinegar, which may be tarragon, has been mixed. Keep the sauce stirred and well smoothed with the spoon. Add % teaspoonful of shred onion, and the same of chervil and tarragon, if plain vinegar has been used with the oil. 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream or melted butter will make the sauce richer and better, and the whites of eggs may be chopped and added to the salad. German Salad Take any kind of cold boiled vegetable, such as cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, sea-kale, or a little of three or four kinds. Cut them into small pieces, and, if the flavor is liked, add chopped oilion or chopped raw apple. Season with pepper and salt, and add 2 table- spoonfuls of vinegar, and 4 of oil, to every 2 p6unds of vegetables. Serve in a salad-bowl, and garnish with sliced beetroot and parsley. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Artichoke Salad Wash thoroughly and quarter some very young artichokes. Bemove the ehokes, and eat them like radishes, with pepper, salt, vinegar, SALADS AND RELISHES 873 and oil. They taste like mits, and make a nice relish. Time to prepare, ten minutes. French-Bean-and-Celery Salad This is one of the universal favorites among summer salads. Cut tender celery into quar- ter-inch pieces, pour over it % cupful of lemon juice, and % cupful of water, for each % cup- ful of celery, and let it stand for an hour or more.. Serve on a leaf of lettuce over young French beans which have been cooked in salted water. Sorrel Salad Scald and peel solid tomatoes, cut a slice from the stem ends, scoop out the centres, and put them on the ice to chill. Chop a handful of sheep sorrel, mix it with an equal quantity of cress, mushrooms, and mint, all chopped fine; fill the tomatoes with the mixture, stand them on nests of lettuce leaves, and pour French dress- ing over them. Partridge berries may be substituted for the mushrooms. Macedoine Salad Have ready 1 capful each of cold boiled green peas and string beans, and % cupful of cold boiled carrots, cut into dice. Have 1 cup- ful of beets boiled and cut into dice. Put all of these ingredients in an ice-box until chilled and 56 874 SALADS AND RELISHES stiff. Heap the beets in the centre of a shallow bowl; arrange around them the celery dice, then the beans, then the carrots, and lastly the peas. Pour over this a good French dressing, and garnish with lettuce leaves or nasturtium blossoms. The salad can be served in a ring of aspic jelly if preferred. Truffle Salad 6 truffles, 3 artichokes, 4 eggs, mustard, 3 gills of oil and tarragon, clove of garlic, mayon- naise, tarragon, chervil, chives, parsley. Cut the truffles in small pieces, place them into a bowl with the artichoke bottoms, pre- viously cooked and cut into eight pieces. Eub through a sieve the hard-boiled egg yolks, lay them in a bowl with the mustard, work well to- gether, add gradually the oil and tarragon vine- gar; rub the bottom of a salad bowl with a clove of garlic, set the truffles in, and the arti- chokes over ; cover all with a mayonnaise, mix- ing in also some tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley, all finely chopped. Asparagus Salad Cut the tender parts from one bundle of boiled asparagus into pieces of the same length and tie them in bunches, then cook them in boil- ing salted water and put them on ice. When SALADS AND RELISHES 875 about to serve put the asparagus into a salad bowl, and pour over it Prencb dressing. Brunswick Salad Arrange 2 cupfuls of celery cut into inch lengths, and 1 cupful of pickled nasturtium seeds on lettuce leaves. Garnish with the yolks of 2 hard-boUed eggs passed through a sieve, and the whites cut into dice, 4 cold bpiled truffles minced, and 1 tablespoonful of minced chives. Cover with French dressing, and serve. German Potato Salad Boil new potatoes; when cold slice them and mix them well with a dressing made with ^ cupful of cream, the yolk of 1 beaten egg, 1/2 teaspoonfiil of salt, % saltspoonful of paprika, or a dash of cayenne, 1 tablespoonful of tarra- gon vinegar. Shred a few pickled gherkins, and boned anchovies. Mix these well with the dressing before adding it to the potatoes. Potato Salad Cut cold boiled potatoes into slices and mix with them 2 minced raw onions, and 1 table- spoonful of chopped parsley. Add 2 tablespoon- fuls of salad-oil mixed with 1 dessertspoonful of vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir lightly together, then set in the ice-box for an hour. When ready to serve, stir in ^a cupful 876 SALADS AND P.2LISHES of mayonnaise, and garnish with 2 hard-boiled eggs and 6 stoned olives. Cabbage Salad Mix 2 cupfuls of chopped cabbage with 1 cup- ful of celery, 1 tablespoonful of minced chives, and the same of catsup. Stir in some boiled dressing or mayonnaise, and serve on lettuce leaves. Beet Salad Farci Boil and peel 6 good-sized beets ; cut off the ends and scoop out the centre, leaving a wall about Vs of an inch thick. Soak in vinegar for two hours, then drain and fill with the following mixture : 1 cucumber, 1 tomato, 1 bunch of cel- i ery, % cupful of finely chopped beets, salt, and a dash of cayenne. Pour over a French dress- ing, and serve at once. Bean-and-Beet Salad Boil 1/2 cupful of small kidney beans. Cook 4 large red beets imtil tender, and when cold out into tiny dice. Have ready 1 pint of cooked string beans cut into inch-lengths. When ready to serve, heap the beets in the centre of a glass dish, next the kidney beans, and, as an outer circle, the string beans. Edge the dish with fresh, crisp lettuce leaves, and pour a French dressing over all. SALADS AND RELISHES 877 Egg Salad with Sardine Mayonnaise Boil 8 eggs hard, throw them into cold water, peel, and lay on ice. Skin and mash to a paste 4 sardines, then rub them into 1 cupful of niay- onnaise. Cut the eggs through the middle and arrange the halves on orisp lettuce leaves. Put 1 spoonful of the sardine mayonnaise on each half, and serve. Daisy Salad Make small balls of minced chicken, well sea- soned, and moistened with French dressing. Boil 5 eggs hard, peel, rub the yolks through a sieve and cut the whites in form of petals. Ar- range the chicken-balls on crisp lettuce leaves, cover with the powdered yolks,, and arrange the whites around the balls in the form of a daisy. This makes a very attractive salad. Plain Egg Salad Boil 8 eggs hard, throw into cold water ; peel and cut into quarters. Line a chilled dish with lettuce leaves, heap the eggs on these and pour over them a thick mayonnaise or a boiled dress- ing. Garnish with chopped olives. Asparagus and Shrimp Salad Mix 2 cupfuls of cold cooked asparagus with 1 cupful of shrimps. Season with salt and pep- ped. Eub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, and moisten with oil and vine- 878 SALADS AND RELISHES gar, using twice as much oil as vinegar. Pour this dressing over the asparagus and shrimps. Italian Salad Cut into dice enough cold boiled potatoes to make 2 cupfuls, and enough cold boiled beets to make % cupful. Arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves or in a ring of aspic jelly, and garnish with gherkins and anchovies. Pea Salad Drain and press through a sieve 1 can of green peas. Dissolve a box of gelatiue in a lit- tle cold water, then stir into the peas and cook over the fire until well heated. Season with % teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, and a little onion juice. Stand in a cold place for • two hours, and serve with the following dress- ing. Put the yolks of 2 eggs into a double boiler with 2 tablespoonfuls each of stock and oil. When thick, take from the fire and season with 1 tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 1 chopped olive, and a little parsley. Vegetable Salad in Jelly Cut 2% cupfuls of cold boiled vegetables into fancy shapes with your vegetable cutter. Cook 1 cupful of water and i/4 cupful of sugar until they boil, then add l^ box of gelatine, soaked in % cupful of water. SALADS AND RELISHES 879 Pour over the vegetables and let stand until firm and cold. Serve on lettuce leaves and pour over mayonnaise dressing. Salsify Salad Boil 2 or 3 bunches of salsify or oyster-plant until tender. Season the water with salt, vine- gar, onion, and a bay leaf. Cut into small pieces, and when cold serve on watercress, and cover with mayonnaise dressing. Garnish with chopped parsley. Lobster Salad— No. 1 Cut the meat from a fresh, well-boiled lobster into small dice, then set it on ice while you make a good mayonnaise dressing. When you have made the dressing set that on ice. also. Have ready V3 as much celery as you have lobster, cut into half -inch lengths. Mix the lobster meat and the celery together, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, then stir in a cupful of the mayonnaise. Arrange 2 or 3 crisp lettuce leaves together in the form of a shell ; cover a platter with these shells and put 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of the salad in each. Garnish with the lobster's claws and hard-boiled eggs, cut into lengths, lengthwise. Lobster Salad-No. 2 Cut 2 boiled lobsters into rather large pieces. Chop fine the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, add 1 880 SALADS AND RELISHES teaspoonful of minced onion, and 1 of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful eacli of tarragon vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Arrange the lob- ster meat on crisp lettuce leaves, cover with the egg mixture, and pour on some French dressing. Garnish with chopped olives and the whites of the eggs'. Lobster-Salad Dressing Mayonnaise is the most suitable dressing for lobster salad. If oil is not liked, a dressing may be made with the yolks of 3 eggs which have been boiled hard and cooled. Eub them in a bowl with the back of a silver spoon until quite smooth. Add 1 teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 1/^ saltspoonful of pepper, 1 tablespoonful of cream, and 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Beat until thoroughly mixed. A few drops of oil may be added if liked. Lobster Salad-No. 3 Pick the meat from the body of a good-sized lobster, take the meat out of the tail part in one piece, and cut it, with the. contents of the claws, into thin slices. Chop the whites of 2 hard- boiled eggs, and rub the yolks through a hair sieve. Do the same with the coral of the lob- ster, mixing the soft part and any bits with may- onnaise sauce. Pour the sauce into the salad dish, put in a layer of shred lettuce, and put on SALADS AND RELISHES 881 top the slices of lobster, interspersed with hard- boiled eggs quartered, sliced beet-root, and cu- cumber. Repeat the arrangement until the bowl is full, sprinkling the egg and coral over and between the layers. Reserve some of the hard-boiled egg, both yolks and whites, and ar- range alternated with the slices of beet and white lobster meat, around the edge of the dish, and just before serving pour over the top some of the mayonnaise. Crab salad may be made in the same way. Lobster-Coral Sauce Thicken I/2 pi^t of strong white stock with 1 . tablespoonful of flour rubbed with 1 tablespoon- ful of butter, and add % cupful of thick cream and the coral of the lobster pounded with 1 table- spoonful of butter. Simmer ten minutes and add 1 tablespoonful of sherry and a squeeze of lemon juice, and strain through a fine sieve. Crab Salad Mix the crab meat, which has been cut into small pieces, with a French dressing, and let stand one hour. Then mix with an equal quan- tity of tender celery which has been cut into half -inch lengths. Add a mayonnaise dressing, and serve on lettuce leaves. Garnish with crab claws. SALADS VlND RELISHES Crab-and-Tomato Salad Peel carefully 6 large, firm tomatoes and re- move the centres. Chop and season the meat of 6 boiled crabs. Fill the hollowed tomatoes with this and set on ice for several hours. Serve on lettuce leaves. Shrimp Salad If canned shrimps are to be used, they must be taken from the can and set on ice for several hours before using. Line a chilled bowl with crisp lettuce, lay the shrimps upon these, and cover with mayonnaise dressing. Garnish with 2 hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and thin slices of 1 lemon. Shrimp-and-Tomato Salad i-'eel 6 firm ripe tomatoes, cut a piece off of the top and remove the centres. Fill the hol- low with cold boiled shrimps, then set each to- mato on a lettuce leaf and pour mayonnaise over all. Shrimp Salad and Tomato Aspic Put the strained liquor from a can of toma- toes over the fire, and season with salt, pa- prika, and the strained juice of 1 onion. Have ready half a box of gelatine that has soaked three hours in a cup of cold water. When the tomato liquor boils, skin, pour over the gelatine, and set in a cool place to jelly. Line SALADS AND RELISHES 883 a salad dish, with lettuce leaves, arrange the shrimps on these, and place spoonfuls of the tomato jelly on them. Serve with French salad dressing. Oyster Salad Select small oysters for this salad. Drain off all the liquor, and to each cupful of the oysters allow 1 cupful of fresh crisp celery cut into half- inch lengths, and sprinkle with salt. Stir in lightly some mayonnaise dressing. Line a salad bowl with crisp lettuce leaves, fill with the oyster salad, and poijr more mayonnaise over all. Garnish with pimolas. Scallop Salad Soak 1 pint of scallops for one hour in salted water. Drain, boil for five minutes, then plunge into ice water. Mix with 1 cupful of celery, which has been cut into half -inch lengths, then stir in some French dressing. Serve on water- cress, and garnish with chopped olives and hard-boiled eggs. Salmon Salad Moulds Season 2 cupfuls of cold boiled salmon with 1 tablespoonful each of lemon juice and minced parsley and 2 drops of Tabasco sauce. Mix with a boiled salad dressing and 1 tablespoonful of dissolved granulated gelatine. When thor- oughly mixed, fill small moulds, and place on 884 SALADS AND RELISHES ice for several hours. Turn out on lettuce leaves and garnish with stoned olives and 3 gherkins, diced. Salmon Mayonnaise Boil 7 or 8 eggs hard, then peel them and lay them on ice. Eub 5 pieces of canned salmon into 1 cupful of mayonnaise. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, arrange the sliced eggs on the leaves and pour over them the salmon mayonnaise. Save some of the eggs to garnish with. Sardine Salad Drain the oil from a box of sardines, then squeeze 3 drops of lemon juice on each fish and let them stand on ice for one hour. Arrange crisp lettuce leaves on a chilled platter and place a sardine on each leaf, with 1 spoonful of mayonnaise dressing poured over each. Gar- nish the edge of the platter with cold boiled beets cut into fancy shapes. Serve with crack- ers and cream cheese. Shadroe Salad Boil 1 pair of roes for half an hour in salted water. Then plunge into ice water, drain, skin, and cut into thin slices. Arrange on let- tuce leaves, pour over some thick mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with a cucumber cut into cubes. SALADS AND RELISHES 885 An Ornamental Fish Salad Separate salmon or any other cold cooked fish into several equal parts and arrange each part on crisp lettuce leaves with a little space between each. Fill in these spaces with hard- boiled eggs, cut in quarters, olives, from which the stones have been carefully removed, fillets of anchovies, and the smallest pickled gherkins. Arrange these in mounds and pour around each section a mayonnaise dressing. Put in the re- frigerator until very cold. Add a touch of bright color by dotting with diced pickled beets. Swedish Salad Take a couple of pickled herrings, cut off the heads and tails, remove the bones, and divide the flesh into dice. Mix with these 2 apples peeled and sliced, 2 large boiled potatoes cut into dice, an equal quantity of cold roast beef, and a little sliced beetroot. Add 1 tablespoon- ful of sliced gherkins, 1 tablespoonful of capers, 1 tablespoonful of shred tarragon leaves, ^ tablespoonfuls of chopped chervil, and 1 hard- boiled egg finely minced. Season the salad rather highly with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. Put the whole in a salad bowl, and serve. A dozen or more freshly opened oysters may, if liked, be laid upon the top of the salad, and va- rious additions may be made to it. Pickled 886 SALADS AND RELISHES shrimps, filleted anchovies, dressed Brussels sprouts, olives, curled celery, and green onions may all be introduced at discretion, and any other kind of dried or pickled fish may be used instead of herrings, if preferred. Saxon Salad (Sometimes Called Sardonic Salad) Take 2 Dutch herrings, soak them in water, boil, cut them first into thin slices and then into narrow strips. Cut up cold meat in the same way, also some sour juicy apples and a little pickled beetroot. Mix well, and season with pepper and a small onion minced very fine. Moisten the salad with oil, vinegar, and milk or cream in equal parts. < Anchovy Salad Wash and remove bones, heads, fins, and tails of 6 anchovies. Cut into inch pieces. Put into bowl with lettuce, shredded small; a few small onions, 1 saltspoonful of chopped parsley, and a few slices of lemon. Mix the juice of a lemon with olive-oil. Pour over salad, and serve. Russian Salad Line a salad bowl with crisp lettuce. Peel and chop fine 1 or 2 tomatoes that have been well chilled, and distribute over the lettuce. Add a mashed anchovy to a French dressing, pour it over the salad, mix, and serve. SALADS AND RELISHES 887, Chicken Salad Cut cold boiled chicken into dice. Mix 2 cup- fuls of the chicken meat with 1 cupful of celery cut into dice. Stir 1 tablespoonful of vinegar into 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, season with salt and peppef, and then pour it over the chicken and celery. When well mixed turn into a dish lined with crisp lettuce leaves, and pour may- onnaise dressing over all. Garnish with stoned olives and hard-boiled eggs. Turkey salad is made in the same way. Italian Salad Pile the white meat of a chicken, picked from a cold one roasted, boiled, or fricasseed, in the centre of a dish, and shred a little lean ham to distribute equally amongst it. Veal also may be used, cut in very thin slices about the size of a quarter. Surround the meat with a wall of young crisp lettuces, small cress, or any salad vegetables in season. Boil some eggs hard, re- move the yolks, and cut the w;hites into thin rings, which arrange in chains over the top. Pour over the centre any salad sauce, in which cream should predominate, and serve at once, that the salad may not get sodden. Timbale of Chicken Mayonnaise Braise a pair of young fowl with plenty of vegetables and some good white stock, and set m 888 SALADS AND RELISHES aside to cool. Line a timbale or tube mould with golden aspic jelly, and ornament or dot it with, cooked tongue, hard-boiled white of egg and cooked cucumber, cut into fancy shapes with the tiny cutters which can be bought at any first-class housefurnishing store. Set this aside to chill. Take the skin from the braised birds and re- move the white meat, cutting it into square pieces. Have ready 14 pint of thick mayonnaise dressing, add 1 tablespoonful or 2 of whipped cream, and 2 tablespoonfuls of liquid aspic jelly, which should be cool, not warm. Dress the white meat of the fowl with this sauce and fill the lined mould with the mixture. Pour ar layer of cool jelly over the top and set on ice to chill for at least an hour. Turn out the timbale and fill the hollow centre with young peas (French canned peas in winter) which have been boiled tender, and then carefully drained, and finally dressed lightly with French dress- ing. Surround the whole with a circle of small, fine cress. Serve as a salad course. Manhattan Salad Lay 1 cupful each of chicken, celery, and apple in a marinade of lemon juice, oil, salt, arid pepper. Stand for half an hour, then mix with a rich mayonnaise. Serve on lettuce leaves, and SALADS AND RELISHES 889 garnish, with 2 hard-boiled eggs cut into quar- ters, a dozen walnut meats, and the sections of I orange. Chicken Salad Rolls (Luncheon Dish) Remove the soft crumb from a Parker House roll and fill with chicken salad; with either cream or mayonnaise dressing. Place crisp lettuce leaf on salad, and press together roll so that the leaf protrudes. Sweetbreads with Celery Salad Wash the sweetbreads and let them stand for half an hour in cold water. Then boil for twenty minutes in salted water. To 1 cupful of minced sweetbreads allow 1 cupful of celery, which has been cut into small dice, and % cup- ful of chopped walnut meats. Put into a chilled dish lined with lettuce leaves, and pour over the mixture mayonnaise dressing to which some whipped cream has been added. Beef Salad Cut cold cooked beef into thin slices, and then into pieces about an inch square. Arrange them neatly on lettuce leaves. Serve with it cooked dressing, into which you have stirred 4 tablespoonfuls of horseradish, and pour it over the beef and serve at once. 57 890 SALADS AND RELISHES Tarragon Fruit Salad Add about 1 teaspoonful of chopped fresh tarragon, to % cupful of the lemon dressing, and serve it over cherries, strawberries, cur- rants, raspberries, ripe tomatoes, bananas, or oranges. Tarragon is a most delicate flavor. With a tomato salad, omit the water in the lemon dress- ing and use more sugar and a little salt. 1 teaspoonful of mint added to the cup of dressing is nearly equal to tarragon over the same fruits, and is especially nice combined with the flavor of oranges; Pineapple Salad Stir together 1 pint of chopped or shredded pineapple, and 2 cups of sweet salad dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves. Canned sliced pine- apple or fresh pineapple can be used. When canned pineapple is used, the juice must be drained thoroughly from the fruit. Apple-and-Pineapple Salad Use i/> of finely cut, tart apples, and % of shredded pineapple; as fast as the apples are cut, they should be added to the salad dressing, to keep them from becoming dark. Apples should never be chopped, as chopping draws out the juice and discolors them. SALADS AND RELISHES 891 Baked Banana Salad A large variety of salads can be prepared from this very common fruit. Peel the banana, and roll lightly in sugar, place in a granite bak- irig-pan, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve with a sour fruit juice thick- ened to the consistency of cream by adding a little flour rubbed smooth with a small amount of butter. Asparagus-and-Cucumber Salad Take the tips of cold cooked asparagus. Cut into thin slices 1 cucumber and let it stand in very cold water for an hour. Drain, and dry on a towel, sprinkle lightly with salt, and mix in lightly the asparagus tips. Arrange nests of crisp lettuce leaves on a platter or shallow salad bowl, put 1 spoonful of the cucumber and asparagus in each, and pour over a mayon- naise dressing. Or mix the salad dressing lightly with the cucumber and asparagus before filling the nests. Raspberry Cream Salad Mash to a cream % Neufchatel cheese, add i/4 of a saltspoonful of mustard and pepper, y^. saltspoonful of salt, and 1/2 teaspoonful of lemon juice ; mix well and add % cupful of rich cream. Stir until smooth and add 1/2 cupful of pure raspberry juice. Make nests of white, 892 SALADS AND RELISHES crisp lettuce, put 1 spoonful of raspberries in each, and pour around them the cream dress- ing. Serve very cold. Apple-and-Nut Salad Wash very thoroughly through several very cold waters as much well-bleached lettuce as is needed. Chop or grind peanuts, pecans, or English walnuts enough to make 1 cupful. All these three nuts may be used, or only one, but at least one other is better than the peanut alone. Have 6 apples in the refrigerator or a cool place, to avoid having to chill them too long after paring, as they discolor soon and lose their fresh look. Dry the lettuce on a napkin and arrange it in nests on the salad platter, using only the pale, crisp leaves. Shortly before time to serve, pare and core the apples, which should be of medium and uniform size, slice them in rings, being careful to keep the rings whole. Pile several of these slices in the nests of lettuce, and fill the cavity in the centres with the slightly salted chopped nuts. On top of each pile a spoonful of very stiff mayonnaise or a boiled dressing that is stiff enough to hold up. A lit- tle more salad dressing may be put around the base of the apples, or a pretty dish of it passed with the salad. SALADS AND RELISHES 893 California Fig Salad This is so very rich, that a little will go a long "way, but those who have a fancy for rich sweets find it delicious. Mix in a salad bowl two dozen fine fresh Cali- fornia figs with 1 cupful of pure honey. Pour over them 1 quart of rich whipped cream, fla- vored with 1 teaspoonful of brandy and 1 table- spoonful of powdered sugar. Serve very cold. 1 tablespoonful of sherry may be used instead jf the brandy. Fruit Salad Latticed pineapple and tart apples, straw- berries, bananas, cherries, pulped oranges, seeded Malaga grapes, chopped browned alm- onds or peanuts; beat 1 cupful olive-oil, cay- enne, salt, and 1 teaspoonful lemon juice ; set on ice until stiff; dispose over salad beneath the latticed fruit. Currant Salad Pick equal weights of white and red currants, strawberries, and cherries, and place them in al- ternate layers on a high dish. Strew a little white sugar on each layer, and pour over the whole some thick, cream, or place little lumps of Devonshire cream at short distances fronj each other upon the fruit. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. 894 SALADS AND RELISHES Celery Salad Cut blanched celery very small. Be careful that it is perfectly dry, and do not prepare it until two or thi-ee minutes before it is to be used. Pour over it a mayonnaise dressing (see Mayonnaise) and garnish with green celery leaves. Time, a few minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Banana-and-Orange Salad Juice of % lemon; juice of 2 oranges; % cupful of sugar; white of 1 egg; V2 cupful of pineapple juice. Slice and mix in a bowl 4 oranges and 3 ba- nanas. Heat to the boiling point juice of % lemon, 2 oranges, % cupful of sugar, and the white of 1 egg, and let simmer five minutes. Strain through muslin upon the fruit; add 1/2 cupful of pure pineapple juice. Put on ice to become chilled before serving. Cherry Salad Lettuce, cherries, mayonnaise dressing, cherry juice, peanuts. Arrange crisp lettuce leaves on a flat salad dish. Scatter cherries through the leaves. Pour over a mayonnaise dressing, first adding 1 tablespoonful of cherry juice instead of vine- gar. Then arrange a few cherries over the top. SALADS AND RELISHES 895 The cherries should be stoned and a peanut placed inside to keep the shape. Waldorf Salad 1 head of celery, 3 good eating apples, 1/2 cup- ful chopped English walnuts. Cut the celery and apples into cubes. Mix the nuts with them. Arrange on lettuce leaves, and pour over each dish a little mayonnaise or a cooked salad dresf ing. Walnut Salad 3 cupfuls of chopped celery, 1 cupful of broken English walnut meats. Serve on cold crisp lettuce leaves with mayonnaise. When celery is out of season, or hard to obtain, the canned celery answers very well. Chestnut Salad Shell, blanch, and boil, until tender, 1 pint of .chestnuts. Drain, dust with salt, and stand aside to cool. Provide 2 hard-boiled eggs. When ready to serve arrange the lettuce in a salad bowl, put the chestnuts over, and then a French dressing, using lemon juice in place of vinegar. Hold a small sieve over the bowl, and rub the yolks through it, covering the salad lightly. Cheese Salad Eub the yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs until a smooth paste is formed. Add gradually 2 896 SALADS AND RELISHES tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, stirring all the while with a fork; then add 1 teaspoonful of mustard, % saltspoonful of cayenne, and % teaspoonful of salt, and 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Mix 1% cupfuls of grated cheese with 1 cupful of chicken meat, diced, with this dress- ing, and put on to a salad dish; Garnish with the whites of the eggs, cut in circles, and with a few white celery leaves or some sprigs of pars- ley. Serve with crackers. Apple-and-Cress Salad Pare 4 medium-sized apples and cut them into small pieces. Pour over them a French dress- ing, and heap in the centre of your salad bowl. Arrange the cress leaves around the dish, and serve. Apple-and-Celery Salad Lay 1 cupful of celery cut into bits in iced water. Peel 4 good-sized apples and cut them into small dice, dropping them in the water' as you do so. Drain the -celery and sprinkle it with salt. Drain the apples, mix with the cel- ery, and pour over all a mayonnaise dressing. FISH RELISHES Stuffed Anchovies Split a sufficient number of anchovies, and wash thoroughly in white wine ; then bone them. SALADS AND RELISHES 897 Mix cooked minced fisli with fine bread crumbs, and make a paste witb yolk of eggs; stuff tbe anchovies with this mixture, then dip them into batter and plunge into boiling fat till a light brown. Drain, place on dish, and serve with fried parsley. I Anchovies and Olives Wash carefully, and cut off the fillets of five anchovies ; chop fine, adding a little parsley and onion ; pound the whole thoroughly in a mortar, seasoning with a dash of cayenne. Cut in halves nine Spanish olives, take out the stones, and fill with the anchovy mixture. Have ready small rounds of bread an inch thick and hollowed in the centre ; fry in butter to a light golden brown ; drain, and place on a napkin spread upon a dish ; lay an olive on each piece, and pour over a little mayonnaise sauce. Canape Caviare Have freshly made, crisp buttered toast, cut diamond-shape ; spread it with i/g inch layer of Eussian caviare (to be bought in tins or kegs). Squeeze over it juice of quarter of a lemon. Take a hard-boiled egg; mince the yolk and white separately; garnish the side of the toast with the white and yolk alternately, making a half -inch border. Serve in a crisp lettuce-leaf; on the side a tablespoonful of finely minced 898 SALADS AND RELISHES white onion. Anchovies, boned and treated in this way, make a good substitute for caviare. Russian Zakouski " What is in Russia called zakouski," says M. Dubois, in his able " Cosmopolitan Cook- ery," " is nothing but those cold hors d'osuvres which the Russians are accustomed to take be- fore sitting down to dinner. The'se dishes are generally composed of sandwiches (cawapes) prepared with herrings, smoked salmon, an- chovies, caviare, eggs boiled hard and chopped. But besides these canapes, commonly some soused or pickled fish is served, or crayfish tails, little tartlets, pickles, ogursis," smoked breast of goose cut into thin slices. " All these dainties are served on a little table, where also several kinds of liqueurs and little glasses are kept ready; the liqueurs gen- erally being Dantzig brandy, arrack, kiimmel, and cognac. The zakouskis are partaken of but a few minutes previous to taking dinner, but without sitting down. In the Petersburg hotels the zakouski table is a fixture." Anchovy Paste Take a dozen anchovies, scrape them clean, raise the flesh from the bones, and pound them most thoroughly in a mortar; then press them through a fine sieve. Add the same weight of SALADS AND REUSHES 899 butter melted, but not hot. The less butter used the stronger will, be the flavor of the an- chovies. Time, about half an hour. PICKLE RELISHES Chow-Chow 1 head cauliflower broken fine, 1 head cab- bage, sliced, 6 peppers, chopped, 6 small onions, sliced. Boil all together in salt water until tender, and drain. 3 pints of vinegar, 1 hand- ful of white mustard seed. Add these to the drained articles and boil a few minutes. 1 cup- ful of sugar, half a cupful of made mustard, half an ounce of celery seed, ^ oz. turmeric, 1 cup flour. Mix smoothly with little cold vinegar. Stir thoroughly just before taking from fire. Stuffed Peppers Cut a slice from the stem end of 6 sweet green peppers ; remove all seeds and soak them in cold water two hours, changing the water twice. Then take half a pound each of cooked veal and ham minced very fine, and half a pint of cooked rice, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a little grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Place the peppers upright in a greased baking- dish, add a little butter and water. Bake until browned, basting often. Garnish with parsley or nasturtiums. 900 SALADS AND RELISHES Indian Chutney Boil together a pint j of good vinegar with half a pound of sour, unripe apples, peeled, cored, and quartered. Wlien pulped and cool, add, first pounding them separately in a mortar md afterwards together, the following ingredi- ents: 4 ounces of stoned raisins, 8 ounces of brown sugar, 2 ounces of garlic, and 2 ounces of mustard-seed; mix these weU with 2 ounces of powdered ginger, the same of salt, and 1 ounce of cayenne. Put the mixture into an earthenware jar, and set the jar in a warm corner by the fire until next morning, when the chutney may be put into small jars and tied down. It will keep good a year or two. Time to stew apples, until soft. Piccalilii 1 quart green tomatoes, 1 quart of onions, 1 good-sized cabbage, 15 medium-sized peppers; chop very fine and mix all together, salt well, and leave till morning; then press out all the brine, pack in jars, and pour over a nice cider vinegar. This is an excellent appetizer. Pickled Walnuts Scald the walnuts, which must be used for pickling before they have a hard shell. This scalding will enable you easily to rub off the skin. Put them into a brine of salt and water SALADS AND RELISHES 901 strong enough to float an egg. Let them stand three days, then shift them into fresh brine, and let them soak three days longer. Now shift tjiem qnce more into fresh brine, and let them soak four days. They are then fit for the jar. Have ready prepared equal parts of black pepper, Jamaica pepper, allspice, and ginger; a quarter of a pint of cloves, the same quantity of mace, and a pint and a half of white mustard- seed. Beat these ingredients together in a mortar, but do not pound them fine. Put the walnuts into the jar by layers, and over each layer strew some of the mixed seasoning. Then have ready some vinegar boiled with sliced horseradish and ginger, and cover the walnuts with it. When quite cold, cork and bladder the jar. This pickle is much improved by the addi- tion of a little garlic and tarragon boiled with the vixiegar. Stuffed Mangoes Take' a naelon of the sort generally used for pickling, first seeing that it is not quite ripe; cut off a slice from the top, and carefully pick out all the seeds. Shred finely 1 ounce of gar- lic;mixitwitb 2oz. mustard-seed, put it back as a stuffing, place the top on, and bind it down. Boil, in 2 quarts of best vinegar, one ounce of 902 SALADS AND RELISHES Jamaica peppers, 1 ounce of whole allspice, 1 ounce of bruised ginger, and a teaspoonful of salt ; when boiling pour it over the melon. The same vinegar must be put into a saucepan, boiled up again, and thrown over the melon for three successive days, or more if possible; then tie down with bladder to exclude the air. Peaches may be substituted for the genuine mango, as the latter are difficult to obtain ex- cept in caimed form. Pickled Gherkins Put the gherkins into a large stone jar, and cover them with brine strong enough to carry an egg. Place the cover on the jar, and leave it for two or three days, until the gherkins begin to turn yellow; then drain them, and pour boUing vinegar over them. Put bay-leaves on the top, keep the jar in a warm place, and heat the vinegar afresh every day, till the gherkins turn as green as you wish. Boil fresh vinegar, and with it 1 large blade of mace, 2 ounces of whole pepper, 4 bay leaves, and half a dozen small silver onions to each quart. Put the gherkins into wide-mouthed bottles, pour the vinegar over them, first allowing it to cool a little, or it will crack the bottles, and cork securely when cold. Time, from a week to a fortnight. SALADS AND RELISHES 903 Pickled Onions Mix a quarter of a pound of Spanish, onions, finely minced, with a quarter of a pound of chopped apples and an ounce of chopped chillis. Pour over them half a pint of white- wine vinegar, which has been boiled with a tea- spoonful of salt, and when cold put the mixture into bottles, to be used as a relish for cold meat. A stick of celery, finely minced, is by many persons considered an improvement to this favorite pickle. Time, half an hour. Watermelon Pickle Cut the rind into small pieces and cover with cold water, to which add 1 tablespoonrful salt and one of alum. Let boil until it can be pierced with a fork (about 1 hour), then drain off the water and throw pickles into cold water, changing it sev- eral times while the following syrup is pre- pared : 1 quart vinegar, 3 pounds sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls stick cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful whole cloves. Let this boil five minutes and pour it over the pickles from which the water has been drained. Let stand overnight; the next day drain off the syrup and let boil for five minutes; then pour over pickles. The third day boil all together five minutes; wben it is done put a cover over the pickles. 904 SALADS AND RELISHES Green Tomato Sweet Pickles Take half a bushel of tomatoes, slice them, and sprinkle salt between the layers, and let them stand all night. Drain them. To 1 gal- lon of vinegar add 5 pounds of brown sugar, 1 cupful of stick cinnamon, 1 cupful of white mus- tard-seed, half a cupful of black pepper, half a cupful of cloves. Boil the tomatoes in the vinegar and spices a few minutes, or until tender. Sweet Pickled Pears or Peaches 6 pounds of fruit, 3 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of cider vinegar, 1 heaping teaspoonful of cloves, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. Cook until tender, and pour the hot syrup over them. Put the spices in a bag and cook with the sugar and vinegar. Put in a stone jar with the spice-bag on top, and cover closely. Chilli Sauce 24 ripe tomatoes, 8 onions, 12 green peppers, 4 tablespoonfuls salt, 8 tablespoonfuls sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls cinnamon, 4 teaspoonfuls gin- ger, 8 teacupfuls vinegar; peppers and onions chopped fine; put all together and boil three hours. Tomato Catsup 1 peck of tomatoes, 6 tablespoonfuls of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of mustard, 2 tablespoonfuls SALADS AND RELISHES 905 of cinnamon, % tablespoonful of allspice, % tablespoonful of cloves, % tablespoonful of black pepper, % tablespoonful cayenne, 1 pint of vinegar. Boil the tomatoes until tender, rub througb a sieve to remove seeds, add season- ing, and simmer tbree hours. Spiced Tomatoes 3 pounds of ripe fruit, pared and sliced; 1 pint of vinegar, 1 quart of sugar; add spices to taste and boil to a jam. Nice for cold meats. INVALID COOKERY Apple Water Cut 2 large apples into slices, and pour a quart of boiling water on them or on roasted apples; strain in two or three hours, and sweeten slightly. Barley Gruel Wash 4 ounces of pearl barley; boil it in 2 quarts of water with a stick of cinnamon till re- duced to a quart; strain, and return it to the saucepan with sugar and three-quarters of a pint of port wine. Heat up, and use as wanted. Barley Water Wash a handful of common barley; then sim- mer it gently- in 3 pints of water with a bit of lemon peel. This is less apt to nauseate than 58 906 SALADS AND RELISHES that made with pearl barley, which is a very pleasant drink and is frequently substituted for common barley. Arrowroot Jelly Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, a glassful of sherry or a spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar; boil once up, then mix it by degrees into a dessertspoonful of arrowroot previously rubbed smooth with 2 spoonfuls of cold water ; then return the whole into the saucepan, stir, and boil it three min- utes. Beef, Mutton, and Veal Broth Put 2 pounds of lean beef, 1 pound of scrag of veal, 1 pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and 10 peppercorns, into a nice tin sauce- pan with 5 quarts of water ; simmer to 3 quarts, and clear from the fat when cold. Add 1 onion if approved. Soup and broth made of different kinds of meats are more supporting as well as better flavored. To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean as possible ; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of clean blotting- pa,per or cap-paper on the broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Beef Tea Cut in small pieces 2 pounds' weight of fresh lean beef; add 3 pints of cold water; when on SALADS AND R^ISHES 907 the eve of boiling, carefully remove the scum ; the moment it boils add | cup of cold water ; then let it b6il up again, and remove the scum as before. If by this time it is not perfectly clear, the same quantity of water may be added a second time, which will cause more scum to rise. ' The same remarks apply to all other broths and gravies, which will always be trans- X^arent and finely flavored if the same rule be observed. Beef tea should be allowed to sim- mer not less than three-quarters of an hour, and not more than one hour, from the time it is last skimmed. Clear Broth The following is a clear broth that will keep long. Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle- bone of veal, and a few shanks of mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust; bake till the beef is done enough for eating with only as much water as will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place. When to be used, give what flavor may be ap- proved. Light Bread Pudding Pour some boiling-hot milk on a few thin slices of white bread or the crumb of French rolls ; when cold beat up 1 whole egg and the yolks of 2 others ; mix them well with the bread, adding a small portion of grated nutmeg, lemon peel, 908 SALADS AND RELISHES and as mucli white powdered sugar as will make it palatable. A few picked currants may be sometimes added. Put the preparation into a pudding-basin slightly rubbed over with butter. and cover the top with a piece of buttered paper ; then place the basin in a saucepan con- taining boiling water, and let the puddings steam for half an hour or more, according to its size. Calves'-Feet Jelly Boil 2 calves' feet in 4 quarts of water for five hours ; then strain theliquor through a hair sieve, and the next day take off all the fat. Whisk the whites and shells of three eggs in a stewpan ; then put in the jelly, and add a small piece of cinnamon, the thin peel of 2 lemons and the juice of 3, with about 6 or 7 ounces of loaf sugar. Put the stewpan on a brisk fire, and whisk its contents till on the eve of boiling ; then remove the stewpan, cover it closely, and let it remain near the fire for fifteen minutes, taking care not to allow the jelly to boil. Pass it through the bag in the usual way. If wine be desired, it will be better to add it the moment before the jelly is passed through the bag. Calves*-Feet Broth Boil 2 feet in 3 quarts of water to half; strain, and set it by. When to be used take off the fat, put a large teacupful of the jelly into SALADS AND RELISHES 909 a saucepan witt half a glassful of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and beat it up till it is ready to boil; then take a little of it, and beat by degrees to the yolk of an egg, and add- ing a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg, stir it all together, but do not let it boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemon into it. Chicken Broth Put the body and legs of the fowl that chicken-panada was made of, after taking off the skin and rump, into the water it was boiled in with 1 blade of mace, 1 slice of onion, and 10 peppercorns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavor. If there is not water enough, add a little. Strain, and when cold remove the fat. Minced Chicken Take the breast of a cold roast chicken, and mince it finely. Add half a teaspoohful of fine flour, together with five or six tablespoonfuls of broth. Season with a pinch of salt. If broth is not at hand, substitute new milk. Heat and serve on toast. Chicken with Sauce Prepare the chicken as in the recipe " Chicken with Sippets." Serve it up with a delicate sauce 9J0 SALADS AND RELISHES made by stirring tlie yolks of 2 fresh eggs with a spoonful of water, and then adding them to the gravy of the chicken while hot, but which must not be allowed to boil. Chicken dressed in this way forms an agreeable repast for an invalid, and is very light for the stomach, and easy of digestion. Chicken with Sippets Take a small chicken trussed for boiling, and let it soak in a pan of cold water for half an hour. Put it into a small stewpan just large enough to hold it; put in half a pint of cold water, and when it boils cover the saucepan closely, and let it simmer very gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, according to its size. Dish up the chickens in a very hot, covered dish, put half a dozen sippets of bread round the bottom, and then strain the broth from the chicken through a fine lawn sieve into the dish, taking care to prevent any fat passing through. Add a little salt, if approved. Egg Wine Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water. Set on the fire a glassful of white wine, half a glassful of water, sugar, and nutmeg; when it boils, pour off a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole is in, stirring it well ; then return the whole into the saucepan, put it SALADS AND RELISHES 911 on a gentle fire; stir it one way for not more than a minute, for if it boils, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast. Egg wine may be made as above without warming the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste. Eggs An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes a break- fast more supporting than tea solely. An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten sepa- rately, then mixed with a glassful of wine, will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when taken together. Macaroni with Broth Take a small quantity of real Italian mac- aroni, and boil it in water till it is just tender. Drain the water off on a hair sieve; then put the macaroni into a stewpan with some of the broth, and let it simmer for five or six minutes ; season with a little salt, if preferred. Meat Jelly Take 2 or 3 pounds of the knuckle of veal, the same weight of fresh-killed gravy-beef, and 1 calf's foot; cut the meat from the bones, and chop them in pieces; lay. them in the bottom of a stewpan, and put the meat on the top of them; 9)2 SALADS AND RELISHES then add as much cold water as will rise two or three inches above the meat; let the whole simmer gently for four hours, taking great care to remove every particle of scum as it rises in the first boiling. Strain through a fine hair sieve, and the next morning the whole of the fat can be taken off. Mutton Broth This is best made with the scrag-ends of the necks chopped in pieces, then well washed and soaked in warm water to draw out the blood Simmer for two hours in water to cover. Orange Jelly Use only half a pint of water to 1 ounce of isin- glass, and proceed as in the recipe " Isinglass Jelly." Then rub the rinds of 1 lemon and of 2 oranges on a piece of loaf sugar, which must be scraped off into a basin, in which the juice of the lemon and the juice of 5 or 6 oranges must be squeezed. Then add the melted isin- glass, and mix well together. Strain through a fine sieve. Veal Broth (Very Nourishing) Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with very little meat to it, an old fowl, and 4 shankbones of mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, 3 blades of mace, 10 peppercorns, an onion, a large bit of bread, and 3 quarts of SALADS AND REUSHES 9J3 water into a stewpot tliat covers closely, and simmer in the slowest manner after it lias boiled np and been skimmed; or bake it; strain, and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will re- quire four hours. Panada (Made 'in Five Minutes) Set a little water on the fire with a glassful of white wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nut- meg and lemon peel ; meanwhile grate J cup crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keep it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When of a proper thickness to drink, take it off. Sponge-Cake Pudding Pour 1 cup boiling milk on 6 penny sponge cakes, and follow same directions as for bread pudding (see " Light Bread Pudding "), some- times adding a few, muscatel raisins. Half a wineglassful of sherry or a tablespoonful of good brandy may also be added, if approved. Tapioca Jelly Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it two or three times, then soak it in freshVater five or six hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes qijite clear; then put lemon juice, wine, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much. 9J4 SALADS AND RELISHES Vermicelli, Italian Paste, and Rice These are all to be prepared in the same way as macaroni (see " Macaroni with Broth "). In this way light and nutritious diet will be fur- nished for an invalid, which will often be re- tained on the stomach vlien a more solid sub- stance would be rejected. Water Gruel Put a large spoonful of oatmeal by degrees into a pint of water, and when smooth boil it one hour; season and flavor to taste. Whey That of cheese is a very wholesome drink, especially when the cows are in fresh herbage. White Broths with Vermicelli Light and delicate white broths may be pro- duced by stirring the yolks of 2 or 3 fresh eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, which must then be poured into the hot broth, gently stir- ring it all the time, without allowing the broth to boil after the eggs are put in. JELLIES Aspic Jelly The convenience of aspic for use in garnish- ing and for moulded meat entrees is frequently overlooked, or thought to be too much trouble to undertake. It may be made in half an hour . SALADS AND RELISHES 915 from clear consomme and gelatine, or by sim- mering a strong solution of extract of beef, with the seasonings that would be used in mak- ing the consomme. Having 2 quarts of clear consomme or 1 quart that will jelly, add a sprig of tarragon and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Simmer together; and if the 2 quarts of thinner consomme are used, boil it down, to one-half. Add a tablespoon- ful of granulated gelatine soaked until soft in 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, mixing it first with a little of the boiling stock until it is well dissolved. Add or omit half a wineglassful of sherry or madeira wine. Cool and add the slightly beaten whites and crushed shells of 2 eggs, let it simmer five or ten minutes and strain through a jelly-bag until very clear. Pour into moulds that have been wet in cold water, or, if to be used in garnishing, pour into a flat pan, and when cold cut in dice. To make the aspic with extract of beef, dis- solve 2 teaspoonfuls of extract in a quart of boiling water. Season with half a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, a few drops of onion juice, salt, and a little cayenne, a blade of mace, and a bay leaf. Add 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Simmer all together until the seasoning is well blended; add the gelatine and wine as before; clear with the egg, and strain. 916 SALADS AND RELISHES Strawberry Jelly In strawberry season make the strawberry syrup with 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of juice. Seal and set away. When making crab-apple jelly heat the strawberry syrup and add half as much crab-apple jelly ; boil together a few min- utes. The jelly will have the strawberry flavor and the crab-apple will cause it to jell. Jellies Curx'ants, crab-apples, cranberries, and grapes, not too ripe, make nice jelly by stewing well in water enough to just cover. When done hang ia a jelly bag to drain. Let the clear juice boil fifteen or twenty minutes. Meanwhile heat the sugar, measure for measure, and turn into the juice. Boil up, stirring to be sure the sugar is dissolved, and remove from fire imme- diately. Grape Jam Remove the pulp of the grapes from the skins, boil the pulp until seeds can be separated, strain through the colander, add the skins, and boil five minutes, after which add two-thirds the amount in sugar and boil twenty minutes, stirring constantly. Concord grapes the best. SALADS AND RELISHES 9J7 CANNING FRUIT The small fruits — currants, red and black raspberries, blueberries and strawberries — are much finer cooked in the can, as this method preserves the form and flavor. Have perfectly fresh fruit; look over, fill cans full, shaking down so as to have them full, without crushing. Place the jars in a steam cooker or in- a common wash-boiler in warm water, with a cloth under- neath t(f avoid breaking, or, if at hand, a per- forated tin or muffin-ring under each can. Make a syrup, allowing 1 cupful of sugar and 1 cupful water to a quart can of berries; sugar to taste. For pears and peaches use 1 cupful of sugar and 2 of water, as they will exude less juice. Let the syrup just come to a boil and pour at once into the cans. Be sure your cans are placed, as stated, in warm water, or thfe syrup will break them. Partly screw on the tops and let the water come to boiling-point, and boil five minutes, when small fruits will be done; large fruits will take longer. Take out cans, and if they are not full, fill to overflowing with boiling water and seal at once. Plums, cherries, currants, and strawberries will bear from 1% to 2 eupfuls of sugar to a cupful of water. Peaches may be successfully canned as above, but together with pears, quinces, and 9J8 SALADS AND RELISHES apples are more quickly canned by cooking in water or syrup till tender. Then lift gently into the cans, pour over them the boiling syrup, and seal. Always use Bartlett pears, as no others are so fine to can; and be sure to have them ripe. If a boiler or kettle is used to put the cans in, it is well, unless they stand very close together, to tuck a few clean white rags between them to prevent their tipping over, as there is some danger of their doing when the first two or three are taken out. Let ihe water come up well around the cans, but not so it will run or boil into them. Use new or very good rubbers, they are cheaper than fruit. Have tops and cans well scalded. Have fresh fruit. Be sure it is tightly sealed, testing two or three times before it is put away. Keep in a dark place ; many keep it bottom-side up. Tomatoes should be scalded, skins removed, sliced, and cooked slowly thirty minutes, then sealed fast and tight, and put in the dark. If you want tomatoes to keep, have them fresh, not over- ripe, seal well, and keep in the dark. Chipped Gingered Pear 8 pounds of seckel or other nice pears, 8 pounds of granulated sugar, V2 pound candied ginger root, 4 lemons. Peel, chip or slice pears very fine, slice the ginger root, and let these SALADS AND RELISHES 9J9 boil together with the sugar for one hour, slowly. Boilthe lempns whole in clear water until tender; then cut up in small bits, remov- ing the seeds. Add to the pear and boil one hour longer, and pour that' into tumblers or large-top cans. Delicious to eat with cake for luncheon. Use candied ginger root in prefer- ence to the green root. Jam Take whatever fruit to be liiade into jam; pick, wash. If large fruit is used, peel, core, or pit, as the case may be, and dice. . To each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar. Put the sugar into a copper or preserving kettle; add enough water to dissolve it. Cook until a boiling, thick syrup is produced, then add the fruit. Draw to one side and keep the syrup just below the boiling-point until the fruit be- comes transparent; then pour into glasses or jars, cover with paraffin paper, and tie down. Marmalade Take the very thin peeling from oranges (lemon peel is also frequently added) ; cut into shreds. Place in saucepan, cover with boiling water, changing the water several times. Next remove the pulp. The best way is to cut the orange in half, take orange-spoon to scoop out the pulp. Use one-fourth the amount of 920 SALADS AND RELISHES lemons to the amount of oranges. To every pint of pulp and juice allow 1 pound of sugar. Boil sugar with water to a syrup; put in the peel and pulp, draw to one side, and keep below the boiling-point until all is a clear mass. Ee- move from the fire, cool, and seal up in jars or glasses. Pineapple, shredded, makes a good addition to the orange and lemon; or orange may be made up separately. Apple Butter Wash and cut up tart apples without peeling, removing the core ; for each half peck allow a quart of cider. Boil until apples a;re tender. Boil for another half hour, adding for each quart of pulp 2 cupfuls of sugar, adding also half teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves, and allspice, also a little grated nutmeg, mixing all well together. Put away into stone jars or crocks when it has reached the proper con- sistency. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHEE DESSERTS PIES AND PASTRY Green Apple Pie Make a good light crust ; wet the edge of the pie-dish, and lay a thin strip all round. Pare, core, and slice the apples, and lay them in the dish with a little sugar and any flavoring that may be preferred — such as powdered ginger, 2 or 3 cloves, grated lemon-rind, with the juice of the lemon, a little cinnamon, etc. Lay a thin crust over the top. If the apples are dry, the parings and cores may be boiled with a little sugar and flavoring, and the strained juice added to the fruit. Bake the pie in a quick oven. It may be served hot or cold. A little custard or cream is an improvement. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Baked Apple Dumpling Prepare pastry as for pie; roll into squares. Peel and core apple; fill centre with butter, sugar, cinnamon, and cloves. Take the pastry, bring four points together, pressing edges to- gether also. Brush with melted butter aod 59 92J 922 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS sprinkle with granulated sugar, and bake in hot oven. Serve hot with hard or fruit sauce. Cream Apple Pie Make an apple pie in the usual way. When it is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the oven, cut out the pastry from the middle, and, when cold, pour a pint of good custard in its place. Put some ornaments of puff paste on the cover. Any kind of firm fruit may be sent to table in the same way. Dutch Apple Pie Pare, core, and slice 3 pounds of apples, and wash and dry half a pound of currants; lay part of the apples in a dish, and strew the cur- rants, some sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon over. Take off the white part of the lemon, cut the pulp into thin slices, and spread them on the currants ; add sugar and plenty of candied orange and citron peel, sliced, and fill up with the remainder of the apples. Cover with a light paste, and bake in a rather quick oven for an hour or more. Dried fruit can be utilized for pies by soak- ing and steaming. Apple Potpie 14 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced, V/o pints flour, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder, 1 cupful ICES, PASTRY, AlSfD OTHER DESSERTS 923 sugar, 1/2 cupful butter, 1 cupful milk, large pinch salt. Sift flour with powder iand salt, rub in butter, cold ; add milk, mis into dough as for tea-biscuits; with it line shalloV stewpan to within two inches of bottom; pour in 1% cup- fuls water, apples, and sugar; wet edges, and cover with rest of dough; put cover on, set it to boil twenty minutes, then place in moderate oven until apples are cooked ; then remove from oven, cut top crust in four equal parts; dish apples, lay on them pieces of side crust cut in diamonds, and pieces of top crust on a plate; serve with cream. t Banbury Tarts Chop 1 cupful seeded raisins, add 1/2 cupful cleaned currants, 1 cupful sugar, 2 tablespoon- fuls cracker dust, 1 beaten egg, juice and grated rind 1 lemon. Roll pie-crust very thin, cut in circleSi Lay on each a tablespoonful of filling ; wet edges of paste; fold each side over the middle to form pointed ovals, dust with gran- ulated sugar, and bake twenty minutes in slow oven. Gooseberry Pie 3 cupfuls gooseberries, stewed with 1% cup- fuls sugar fifteen minutes, and strained. Line pie-plate with paste; put in gooseberry jam; wet the edges, lay 3 narro^ bars across ; 924 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS fasten at edge, then 3 more across, forming diamond-shaped spaces. Lay rim of paste; brush over with egg ; bake in quick oven until paste is cooked. Mincemeat 7 pounds currants, 3% pounds peeled and cored apples, 3% pounds beef, 3^2 pounds suet, 1/2 pound each citron, lemon, and orange peel; 2% pounds coffee sugar, 2 pounds raisins, 4 nutmegs, 1 ounce cinnamon, % ounce each cloves and mace, 1 pint brandy, and 1 pint white wine. Wash currants, dry, pick them; stone the raisins ; remove skin and sinews from beef and suet. Chop each ingredient, separately, very fine; put into large pan as they are fin- ished, finally adding spices, brandy, and wine; thoroughly mix together; pack in jars; store in cold, dry place. Mince Pasties Make puff paste ; sprea;d it with mince made, of boiled tongue, suet, apples, raisins, orange juice, eider, sugar, citron, currants, and pre- served peach. Cover with pastry cut into stars, and bake a delicate brown. Pumpkin Pie 1% cupfuls stewed and browned pumpkin, 1 cupful milk, J^o cupful scalded cre^m, 2 eggs, ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 925 well beaten; generous 14 cupful of sugar, 14 cupful Porto Rico molasses, l^ teaspoonful each salt and mace, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon; bake in pastry shell until firm ; garnish with whipped cream. Pumpkin or Squash Pie Mix 3 cupfuls thick stewed and sieved pump- kin or squash, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 eggs, % teaspoonful cin- namon, pinch cloves. Line 2 pie-plates as for custard pie ; bake in moderate oven. Tarts— Gooseberry, Currant, Apple, or Any Other Fruit Time to bake, from three-quarl^ers to 1 hour. 1 quart gooseberries, rather more than % pound paste, moist sugar to taste. Cut off tops and tails from gooseberries, or pick currants from their stems, or pare and quarter the apples or peaches ; put them into pie-dish with sugar, line edge of dish with paste, pour in a little water, put on cover, ornament edge of paste in the usual manner, and bake it in a brisk oven. Tartlets Time to bake, quarter of an hour. Line some patty-pans -nip: puff paste, fill them with any jam or preserve, and bake lightly. 926 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS Lemon Pie Use juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 scant tablespoon- fuls corn starch, 1 cupful boiling water. Cook in double boiler to consistency of custard. Bake under-crust, then pour in mixture. Make a meringue with whites of 2 eggs and 3 table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Decorate pie; set in oven to brown. Cream Pie 2 eggs, 2 cupfuls milk, 1 cupful sugar, 1 table- opoonful corn starch. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. Beat the yolks, sugar, and corn starch together, and make like boiled custard; then put in a baked crust, and set in hot oven until it thickens. Beat the whites with a little sugar, flavor, and put on top ; brown in hot oven. This makes one pie. % cupful of cocoanut, shredded, may be added to the filling. Cfiocolate Pie 1 cupful of milk, 1 cupful water, 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour, yolks of 2 eggs, a piece of butter size of a hickory nut, a piece of bitter chocolate half the size of an egg, 1 cupful sugar. Put the milk and water in saucepan on stove to boU. WhUe boiling, drop in^mp of choc- olate and stir until dissolved. Sm* the sugar, eggs, and flour together in a bowl; stir these ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 927 into the boiling ingredients in the saucepan until well cooked. Turn into pastry shell and cool. Cream Puffs Let 1 cupful milk and 1/2 cupful of butter come to a boil. Slowly stir into this 1 cupful sifted flour mixed with 1 teaspoonful of baking- powder. Add 3 well-beaten eggs and drop on buttered tins. Bake about thirty minutes in a moderate oven. When cool cut off tops and fill with whipped cream, corn-starch filling, or the following : Cream. — 1 cupful milk, 1/2 cupful sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour or 1 of corn starch; flavor with vanilla. Rosettes Take 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, and a speck of salt; beat these together; then add 1 pint of milk and flour enough to make a batter like that used for griddle cakes ; d.ip hot rosette iron in batter and fry in hot fat; serve with garnish of currant jelly and top each with whipped cream. Boiled Indian-Meal Pudding Put together in a mixing-bowl 1 cupful each of beef suet (chopped fine), molasses, milk, seeded raisins, and sift into the mixture 1 cup- ful flour, 2 cupfuls corn meal, and a level tea- spoonful of soda sifted in with the flour and 928 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS meal. Mix batter thoroughly. Dip a cloth bag in hot water, dust the inside with flour, and pour the batter into the bag, allowing room for the pudding to swell. Plung'o pudding into a deep kettlef ul of boiling water ; cover for three hours, refilling with boiling water as the water boils away from the pudding. When done, remove and plunge into cold water; take out immediately and drain. Cut open bag and place pudding on hot dish, and serve with raisin sauce. Raisin Sauce Mix together 1 cupful molasses, 1 cupful of hot water, the juice of 1 lemon, 1% cupfuls fine seeded chopped raisins. Cook for ten minutes. Add 1 tablespoonful diluted corn starch and 1 of butter. Cook until creamy. English Apple Pudding 12 or 14 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced; | teaspoonful extract nutmeg, 1% cupfuls sugar. Line earthenware pudding-mould with paste, pack iu apples, sugar, extract, and a little water; wet edges ; cover, pinch edges together firmly ; place in saucepan half full boiling welter, and boil three hours. Serve with hard sauce. Cottage Pudding 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful milk, 1 egg, lump butter size of egg, 1 pint flour, salt, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking-powder. Bake 30 minutes. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 929 Sauce. — 1 cupful sugar, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful flour, small piece of butter, mixed. Add ^ cup boiling water, let come to boil, flavor witb extract vanilla. Gruetz (from Holland) 1 pint gooseberry pulp, 1 pint red-currant .iuice, 1 cupful orange juice ; wben hot stir in as much corn starch as will thicken ; add pinch salt ; cook ; pour into fancy mould ; serve with sweet- ened whipped cream, filled through pastry tube, and sugar. Suet Pudding 1 cupful chopped beef suet, 1 cupful raisins, 1 cupful molasses, % cupful currants, 1 cupful sour milk, 1 cupful corn meal, brown and white flour enough to make a stiff batter, 1 teaspoon- ful soda, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon; cloves, nut- meg, a little salt. Stir molasses and milk to- gether, put in soda, then suet, flour, etc. Steam three or four hours. Sauce. — 1 cupful sugar, % cupful butter ; mix well together with 3 tablespoonfuls flour and 1 of cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir in 1 pint boil- ing water and let cook until it thickens. Gooseberry Pudding 1 cupful sweet milk, % cupful sugar, 2 eggs beaten separately, 2 tablespoonfuls melted but- ter, 1 teaspoonful baking-powder sifted with 1 930 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS pint flour, vanilla. Butter a pudding-dish, pour in 1% cupfuls gooseberry jam (and add 2 tart apples, sliced fine, if you choose). Pour batter over and steam one hour, or bake. Sauce. — % cupful sugar, % cupful of butter, beaten together; add 1 well-beaten egg, juice and a little grated rind of 1 lemon, teaspoonful grated nutmeg. ' Mix thoroughly, add % cupful boiling water, set bowl in top of boiling tea- kettle. Stir constantly till done, but do not boil. Nut Pudding 2 eggs, % cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of sweet milk, % cupful of melted butter, 1 good pint of sifted flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, 1% cupfuls of nu,ts dredged in flour. Beat eggs very light; add sugar, milk, melted butter, flour and baking- powder, salt. Beat hard until thoroughly mixed. Then add nuts. Let pudding steam three hours. Golden Sauce {for the Pudding). — Cream 1 heaping teaspoonful of butter; add gradually 1 cupful of sugar, yolks of 3 eggs, 3 tablespoon- fuls of milk. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten as stiff as possible. Do not mix in the whites, but fold iu lightly, and beat lightly. Favor with vanilla. This should be made just before the pudding is served. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 931 Rotterdam Pudding (Rich) Beat 4% ounces of fine flour to a smootli paste with half a ijint of milk, and add 41/2 ounces of sugar and a small pinch of salt. Blanch and pound 41/0 ounces of sweet almonds, and whilst pounding drop in a little cold water to keep them from oiling. Put 4i/^ ounces of butter into a saucepan with half a pint of milk. Let it remain until the butter is melted, then stir in the paste of flour and milk, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire, until it boils and becomes thick, when it may be poured out to cool. Add the blanched and pounded alm- onds, then stir in first the well-beaten yolks of nine eggs, and afterwards the whites of the eggs whisked till firm. Beat the pudding briskly for a few minutes, pour it into a but- tered basin which it will fill, tie it in a cloth, and let it boil without ceasing until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and send wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Rum Pudding Grate 3 ounces of stale bread crumbs, and pour over them as much rum as will moisten them. When they are well soaked, beat them up with 6 ounces of sugar, a little grated nut- meg, and first the yolks, and afterwards the well-whisked whites, of 4 eggs. Pour the mix- 932 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS ture into a buttered mould, and let it steam until done enougli. Turn it upon a hot dish, pour half a tumblerful of rum over it, set light to this, and serve immediately. Time to steam the pudding, one hour. Fruit Roly-Pory Pudding Beat a teaeupfui of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Add 2 well-beaten eggs, a pinch of salt, and as much milk as will make a rather thick batter. Wash half a pound of prunes, or other dried fruit, and simmer them in a little water till they are quite soft. Drain off the liquid, take out the stones, sprinkle a little flour over the prunes, and then stir them into the pudding. Dip a cloth into boiling water, wring it well, and dredge a little flour over it. Pour the pudding into it, and tie it securely, but leave a little room for the pudding to swell. Plunge if into boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, two hours. Polish-Pudding Blanch 1 ounce of sweet almonds and 6 bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding a few drops of water to prevent their oiling. Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of new milk, and bring the liquid ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 933 slowly to the boil. Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot very smoothly with half a pint of cold milk. Pour the boiling milk upon this, and stir briskly for a minute or two. Add 2 ounces of fresh butter and 2 well-beaten eggs, and stir the mixture again until it is cool. Put it into an oiled mould, and set it upon ice, if possible; if not, lay it in a cool place until it is wanted. Turn it out before serving, and send hot plates to table with it, and the foUolving sauce in a tureen: Beat 2 ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add 2 ounces of powdered sugar and 2 glassfuls of sherry, and mix thoroughly. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and stir gently until it boils. Serve immediately. Time, six or eight hours to set the pudding, if it is not put upon ice. Christmas Plum Pudding Shred finely half a pound of beef suet with a little flour to prevent it sticking; add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of sultanas; half a pound of currants, half a pound of bread crumbs, 2 ounces of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 6 sweet and 6 bitter almonds, blanched and shred finely, half a nutmeg grated, 2 ounces of candied lemon and citron, and the rind of half a lemon finely chopped. Mix thoroughly, then add 4 934 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS well-beaten eggs and a wineglassful of brandy. Let these stand for five or six hours, thdn add a cupful of milk, and boil for three hours. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Steamed Graham Pudding 1 cupful thick sour milk, 1/2 cupful Porto Rico molasses, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1/2 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful soda in milk, 1 cupful seeded raisins, % cupful currants, 1 cup- ful fine bread crumbs, 2 cupfuls Graham flour. Mix to light batter, steam in buttered mould 8 hours ; bake ; garnish with maple hard sauce. BAKED PUDDINGS Boston Delight 2 cupfuls crumbled Boston brown bread, V^^ teaspoonful salt, 2 eggs, beaten, 1 quart milk, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter, cupful mixed dried fruit — raisins, currants, citron, figs. Mix to smooth batter; bake firm in centre; garnish with lemons, whipped cream, maraschino cher- ries; serve with lemon sauce. Cracker Raisin Pudding Scald 5 cupfuls milk; pour over 1% cupfuls rolled cracker crumbs ; add % cupful qold but- ter, % cupful molasses, % teaspoonful each of salt and cinnamon, ^ teaspoonful mace, 1 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 935 pound seeded raisins, 6 eggs beaten with 1 cup- ful brown sugar; bake four hours; whipped cream garnish. Apple Tapioca Pudding Pare and core enough apples to fill dish ; put into each apple a bit of lemon peel. Soak % pt. tapioca in 1 qt. lukewarm water 1 hour, add a little salt and sugar ; flavor with lemon ; pour over apples. Bake until apples are tender. Serve cold with cream and sugar. Date Pudding y2 pound of dates, whites of 6 eggs, 5 table- spoonfuls of pulverized sugar. Take the stones out of the dates, beat the eggs very stiff, add the sugar and fold in the dates. Put into a pudding-dish, and bake in a quick oven long enough to brown the top. Serve with whipped cream or custard. Any fruit may be substi- tuted for dates. Rice Pudding— No. 1 % cupful rice, 1% pints milk, % cupful sugar, large pinch salt, 1 tablespoonful lemon rind chopped fine. Put rice (washed and picked), sugar, salt, and milk iu quart pudding- dish ; bake in moderate oven two hours, stirring frequently first hour and a half; then permit it to finish cooking with light-colored crust, dis- turbing it no more. Eat cold with cream. 936 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS ^Rice Pudding— No. 2 % cupful rice, % pint milk, 4 apples, peeled, cored, and stewed; Va cupful sugar, 4 eggs. Boil rice in milk until reduced to pulp; beat well with apple sauce and sugar for ten min- utes, then set aside to cool; then carefully mix in whites of eggs, whipped to stiff froth. Orange Pudding 2 eggs, 1 cupful milk, 1 tablespoonful corn starch, 1^ cupfuls sugar. Make a custard with the milk, corn starch, sugar and yolks of the eggs, and when cool pour over 2 oranges sliced in the bottom of a dish. Beat the whites, add ^cupful sugar and put over the pudding, then slice 1 orange over this, and set in oven to brown. Huckleberry, Blackberry, or Cherry Pudding Into 1 egg lightly beaten pour 1 cupful mo- lasses, add 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved in a little water, then thicken with 2% cupfuls flour, add 1 pint huckleberries, dusted with flour, bake about one hour, and serve with foaming sauce. This recipe will also do for blackberry, rasp- berry, or cherry pudding. Chocolate Pudding 10 tableepoonfuls bread crumbs, 6 tablespooa- fuls grated chocolate, 1 pint milk, 1 pint i5Ugar, ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 937 yolks of 6 eggs, whites of 2 eggs. Boil the bread crumbs and chocolate in the milk till it begins to thicken, stirring it meantime. Then cool, stir in the yolks and the whites, which have previously been beaten well with the sugar. Bake for one-half hour. Cover with meringue made of sugar and the whites of 4 eggs. Brown in the oven. Apple Meringue Pare and slice 8 sour apples. Place them in a pudding-dish and cover with 'a liberal amount of sugar, adding the grated rind and juice of 1 lemon. Bake until quite soft. Have the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add 1 cupful of sugar. Spread over the top of the apples, and brown. Baked Sago Pudding Wash 3 tablespoonfuls of sago, and soak it for one hour in i^ pint of cold water. Meantime put 1% pints of nulk into a saucepan with a little lemon rind, 1 inch of stick cinnamon, or 1 ounce of blanched and pdujided almonds, and let it simmer gently till it is pleasantly flavored. Strain and sweeten ; mix with it the soaked sago drained from the water, and simmer gently, atirring frequently tUl the preparation is thick. Let it cool, then add 2 well-beaten eggs, and a slice of fresh butter, and beat it again for a few 6o 938 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DES5ERTS minutes. Pour it into a buttered pie-dish, and bake until the surface is brightly browned. Serve with wine sauce. If a superior pudding is required, 4 eggs niay be used instead of 2, and the dish m^y be lined with puff paste before the sago is poured into it. Time to bake the pudding from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Farina and tapioca are also made as the above. Bread Custard Puddingr Make a custard according to size of pudding required. 1 pint of custard will fill a mediiun- sized dish. Cut slices of thin bread and but- ter, to suit the dish, and over each layer throw currants, sugar, and finely cut candied lemon, and a little nutmeg. Pour the custard over by degrees so that the bread, may be well satu- rated, and let it stand an hour before putting it in^o the oven. Just before it is put in, throw over the last of the custard, and bake in a mod- erate oven for half an hour. Brown Bread Pudding Take equal quantities of well-washed cur- rants, brown bread crumbs, and shred suet — % pound of each — add 6 ounces of sugar, % glass of brandy, and the same quantity of cream ; mix all together, with 6 eggs well beaten, leaving out the whites of 2. Bake in a moderate ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 939 oven for two hours. Serve with sweet sauce and sugar over the top. Jewish Almond Pudding Put 4 ounces of sweet almonds, and 3 bitter ones, into a saucepan of cold water. Heat it gradually, and when too hot to bear the fingers, put the almonds into a basin, slip off the skins, and throw them at once into cold water. Dry them well, and pound them in a mortar until they form a smooth paste ; drop 1 teaspoonful of cold water over them two or three times to pre- vent them oiling. Mix with them 4 oimces of powdered loaf sugar, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of rose-water, together with the yolks of 4, and the whites of 3, eggs well beaten. Stir briskly for ten minutes, pour into a well-oiled mould, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the pudding out of the dish before serving, and pour round it a thick syrup, flavored with the rind and juice of 1 lemon, and colored with cochineal. Time, half an hour to bake. Stewed apples may be added with the almond when making the batter. Baked Batter Pudding Separate the yolks from the whites of 4 eggs, beat them well separately, and throw them in a basin together; then mix them very gradually with 6 or 8 ounces of flour, and a pinch or two of salt. Make the batter of the proper con- 940 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS sistency by adding little more than 1 pint of good milk. Bake in a buttered disk for three- quarters of an hour in a quick oven. This pud- ding is much improved by careful mixing. If the eggs, flour, and milk are not well blended to- gether the pudding is often a failure. Apple or Other Fruit Souffle Keduoe half a doaea apples to a pwlp, sweeten, and flavor them nioely, and place them in the middle of a large dish. When cool, poiar over them a good Wstard, made with % pint of cream, the yolks of 4 eggs, sugar, and flavoring. "Whisk the whites to a solid froth, place it in rook-like pieces over the onstaid, aad sift 1 des- sertspoonful of white sugar over it. Put it in the oven till the icing is lightly browned, and serve cold. Arrowroot Souffle Mix 4 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot with 1 cup- ful of milk. Stir it gradually into 1 pint of boil- ing milk, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar on which the rind of 1 lemon has been rubbed. Let it boil for a quarter of an hoiar, stirring all the time. Take it from the fire and let it coal, then stiff in the well-heaten yolks of 6 eggs.. Well oil a plaiffl tin mould, and when everything is ready, whisk the whites to a solid froth, and add them to the re&t. Fill the tin three parts full, and ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 941 bake for t"wenty minutes in a good oven. Serve immediately. Lemon Souffle Mix 14 of a pound of flour very smoothly -with IV2 pints of milk; add i^ of a pound of sugar, which has been well rubbed upon the rind of 3 fresh lemons, and flavor with vanilla or other ex- tracts, and 14 of a pound of butter, and boil gently until the mixture is thick and smooth. Pour it out and stir it until it is nearly cold, then add the yolks of 6 eggs, well beaten. Last of all, whisk the whites of 9 eggs to a firm foam, and add them, with the strained juice of 2 lemons, to the rest. Butter a souflle-mould thickly, half fill it with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. If it is necessary to fill the mould more than half, tie a band of well-buttered white paper round the top, to prevent the contents running over. Serve the souffle the moment it comes out of the oven, or its appearance will be spoilt. Time to bake, from thirty to forty min- utes. Ground Rice Souffle Mix 3 ounces of ground rice smoothly with % pint of new milk or cream. Put them into a saucepan, with 2 ounces of fresh butter, % of a pound of sugar, a pinch of salt, and the thin rind of 1 lemon, % inch of cinnamon, or any fla- voring that may be preferred. Stir quickly 942 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS over tlie fire until the milk boils, pour it into a basin, and when cool add the yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten. Butter a plain mould — and it is well to tie round it a band of white paper, also well buttered, which should be a good deal higher than the mould itself, so that if the bat- ter rises much in the oven, it may not fall over the sides. Whisk the whites of 5 eggs to a firm froth, and add them the last thing. Beat the mixture fully ten minutes after the whites are added. Bake in a quick oven, and serve as soon as the dish is taken from it. Have a hot napkin ready to pin round the dish in which the soufle was baked, and let a heated salamander, or red- hot shovel, be held over it, in its passage from the kitchen to the dining-room. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Caramel Pudding % pint brown sugar, % pint water, i/4 box gelatine, whites of 4 eggs, % teaspoonful of vanilla. Soak gelatine in 1 gill of cold water for 2 hours. Put sugar and other gill of water in a saucepan. Set on the fire and boil until it be- comes a thick syrup.. Add gelatine and vanilla and heat again to a boiling point. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour hot syrup over eggs, beating constantly until cold. Pour into moulds to cool. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS '43 Custard Sauce 3 gills milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, little salt, and little vanilla. Boil for a minute or two. Heavenly Hash Strain the juice from 1 pint of cherries or red raspberries and place in a sauce dish with al- ternate layers of sliced bananas, sprinkling over each layer 1 tablespoonful of pulverized sugar. Make a custard with 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, saving out the whites of 2; 1/2 cupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch, and a pinch of salt. When cold pour custard over fruit, covering with the whites well beaten with Yz cupful of sugar. Tapioca Custard Put 2 tablespoonfuls fine tapioc; in double boiler with 1 pint milk, cook and stir till tapi- oca is transparent. Add yolks of 2 eggs, beaten with 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, and pinch salt; stir till thickened. Add whites whipped to stiff froth, Stir lightly three minutes ; take from fire ; add flavoring when cooled. If pearl or lump tapioca is used, it must be soaked in cold water for several hours before cooking. Snow Pudding Soak Vz box of gelatine in 1/2 cupful cold water, then poiir on 11/2 cupfuls boiling water; 944 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS add juice of 1 lemon and 1 cupful sugar, and set in cold water. When nearly cold beat until it thickens, and then add the stifSy beaten whites of 3 eggs. Beat all together, put in moulds and set on ice. Make custard with the yolks of the eggs, 1 pint milk, large spoonful each of sugar and corn starch. Flavor with vanilla, and serve very cold, pouring custard around the snow. Apple Snow— No. 1 Core, quarter, and steam 3 large sour apples. Eub through sieve, cool; whip whites 3 eggs to very stiff froth with % cupful powdered sugar, gradually add apple, and whip long time till white and stiff. Pile in dish; garnish with dots currant jelly. Snow Eggs To whites 5 eggs add pinch salt, and whip to very stiff froth; gradually add 1 tablespoonful powdered sugar and few drops flavoring. Scald 1 quart milk in large pan. Shape whites in tablespoon, drop a few at a time in hot milk. Turn until cooked. Lift out with skimmer, lay on glass dish. When all are cooked, make cus- tard with egg yolks, milk, and 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, and serve with egg^. Charlotte Russe Mix 1 pint rich cream, % cupful powdered sugar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Have very cold ICES, PASTRiT, AND OTHER DESSERTS 945 and wMp to stiff froth, turning under cream when it first rises. Line dish with sponge cake or lady fingers, fill with whipped cream. Boiled Custard Pudding l^ake 1 pint of custard with % pint of milk, and 3 eggs. Flavor and sweeten it liberally, or the pudding will be insipid. Put it into a buttered basin which it will quite fill, cover it with a piece of buttered paper, then steam it gently until done. Keep moving it about in the saucepan for the first few minutes, that it may be well mixed. It must not cease boiling after it is once put in. Serve with wine sauce or a little jam. A large pudding may be made with very little more ex- pense by adding another egg, another half -pint of milk, and a tablespoonful of flour. Time, forty minutes to steam. Sufficient for four per- sons. Baked Custard Pudding Take as many eggs as will, when level, cover the bottom of the dish in which you intend to bake the custard. Break each one into a sepa- rate cup before it is mixed with the rest, to in- sure the quality of the eggs. Beat them a min- ute or two, but not too much, or the custard will be w:atery. Fill the dish with milk, sweeten lib- erally, .and add a pinch of salt. Flavor with 946 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS brandy, lemon, almond, vanilla, rose-water, or- ange-water, or any other flavoring. Stir all to- gether. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as the cus lard is set it is done enough. Time to bake, about half an hour. Floating Island Into % of a pint of cream put sugar to make it very sweet, and the juice and rind of 1 lemon, grated. Beat it for ten minutes. Cut French rolls into thin slices, and lay them on a round dish on the top of the cream. On this put a layer of apricot or currant jam, and some more slices of roll.' Pile up on this, very high, a whip made of damson jam, and the whites of 4 eggs. It should be rough to imitate a rock. Garnish with fruit or sweetmeats. Frozen Custard Scald 2 quarts rich milk ; add f tablespoon- ful of corn starch, moistened in a little cold milk ; cook foi: twenty minutes. Add 6 beaten eggs, 1 cupful sugar, 1 teaspoon- ful lemon and vanilla extract, then freeze. Apricot Custard Line a pie-dish with a good short crust. Spread smoothly at the bottom a layer of apri- cot marmalade about an inch in thickness, and ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 947 pour over it a custard made of 1 pint of n^w ' milk, 3 eggs, and 1 teaspoonful of ground rice, a little sugar, and 4 drops of the essence of almonds. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Taganrok (Russian) Add to 2 cupfuls of hot hominy 1 cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 cupful currants, and raisins, juice, and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful Tokay wine, stiffly beaten whites of 3 eggs ; steam in mould lined with angelica, thirty minutes; set on ice; cherry garnish. ' Frozen Plum Pudding. Beat 6 yolks to a cream ; pour oveT 1 cupful scalded milk; add extract of cinnamon and a cupful of sugar. Cook until mixture coats a spoon, then add 4 tablespoonfuls melted choc- olate and a pint each of chopped mixed fruit and of cream. Freeze, then pack iu a mould and bury in ice and salt for two hours. . Apple Mange Reduce to a pulp a dozen fine apples, or other fruit, and sweeten and flavor according to taste. When quite cold, pour it into a glass dish, and cover it with whipped cream, which will be much firmer if made the day be,f ore it is wanted. Time to simmer the apples, forty minutes. 948 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS Strawberry Pudding Sprinkle 1 cupful of sugar over 1 qiprt of strawberries; mash, and let them stand until the sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Squeeze the mixture through a square of cheesecloth ; there should be about 1 cupful of juice. Add boiliag water to make 1 pint of liquid and put it on to boil. "Wet 3 tablespoon- fuls of corn starch in a little cold water and stir it into the boiling syrup ; cook ten minutes, stirring frequently. Beat the whites of 3 eggs stiff and stir into the thickened syrup just be- fore removing it from the fire. Turn it into a mould which has been wet in cold water, and set on ice. To be eaten with whipped cream or a custard sauce made of the yolks of the eggs. Apple Snow— No. 2 Eeduce ^ doz. apples to pulp by steaming ; press them through a sieve, sweeten and flavor ,th em. Take the whites of 6 eggs, whisk them for some minutes; strew into them 2 tablespooufuls of sifted sugar. Beat the pulp to a froth ; then mix the two together, and whisk them until they look like stiff snow. Pile high in rough pieces on a glass dish, stick a sprig of myrtle in the middle, and garnish with small pieces of bright- colored jelly. Time to beat the snow, three- quarters of an hour. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 949 Swiss Cream Cmmble a quarter of a pound of macaroons and 2 or 3 penny sponge cakes, or use a mixture of macaroons and ratafias. Lay the crumbs in a glass dish. Pour over them a glassful of sherry, and spread a spoonful or two of jam upon them. If a plain dish is required, the sherry or the jam, or both, may be omitted. Simmer the thin rind of half a lemon, or a little piece of vanilla, in half a cupful of milk till it is pleasantly flavored. Add a pint of cream .and as much sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly. Mix a tablespoonful of corn starch smoothly with a little cold milk, and add this gradually to the rest. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it boils; poiir it out, and stir it again till it is almost cold. Add the juice of a lemon, and pour the cream over the cakes in the dish. Ornament the top with bright-colored jelly or jam, or with strips of angelica. If liked, 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot may be substituted for the corn starch, or a tablespoonful of flour even may be used. The cream should stand in a cool place three or four hours before it is wanted. Canary Cream Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with a little sugar and the grated rind of half a lemon. When boiling, pour it upon the beaten yolks of 950 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 3 eggs. Eeturn it to the stewpan, and stir it over a slow fire till the eggs thicken, and be very careful that it does not curdle. When cool, stir in a small glass of sherry or brandy to flavor it, and serve in custard glasses. Time, twenty minutes. Frangipane Beat 6 eggs until light ; add to them gradually a pint of new milk and 2 small spoonfuls of flour. Put the mixture over the fire in a clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and when close at the boiling point and thickish, stir in 2 ounces of crushed ratafias, a glass of rum or brandy, some grated lemon rind, and 2 ounces of butter, browned sligbtly in a clean pan. This delicious, creamy prep- aration is an excellent substitute for custard. It can be flavored with vanilla, orange-flower, or coffee to suit the dish it is wanted for. The French use it to fill tartlets or cover fruit tarts. Velvet Cream Put a pint and a quarter of milk into a sauce- pan with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, and an inch of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer till pleasantly fla- vored. Put 2 dessertspoonfuls of. corn starch into a basin, and mix with it 4 well-beaten eggs. Strain the milk when it is cool into the eggs, ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 95J and stir the custard over the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir it off the fire till it is almost cold, add a few drops of vanilla essence, and pour it into a glass dish over sponge cakes or ratafias soaked in sherry and covered with jam. Let it stand in a cool situation three or four hours before serving. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the milk with the flavoring. Fruit Charlotte Line a plain round mould with finger biscuits, carefully put them close together, and form a round or star at the bottom of the mould. Take a pint of cream and whisk it well with a little sugar and half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little water. Mix with it half a pint of apple, apricot, strawberry, or any other jam or stewed fruit, and set it to freeze. Cover it with a piece' of Savoy cake the shape of the mould, and be careful to fit it exactly, so that when it is turned out it will not be likely to break. Let it remain in the ice until it is Sufficiently frozen. Turn out and serve. If fruit is not at hand the cream may be flavored with coffee, burnt almond, vanilla, etc. Time to freeze, about an houi. Honeycomb Cream Strain and sweeten liberally the juice of 2 large lemons and a Seville orange. Put it 952 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS. into a glass dish. Boil a pint and a half of thick cream. Pour it into a heated teapot. Put the glass dish containing the juice on the ground, and pour the cream on it very slowly, and from a good height, so as to froth it well. Let it stand until cold. It should be well stirred at table before serving. This is the old- fashioned way of preparing honeycomb cream, but a better plan is to whisk the white of an egg and a little sugar with the cream; then, as the froth rises, to take it off and lay it upon the lemon juice until all the cream is used. Honeycomb cream should be made the day be- fore it is wanted, and put at once into the dish in which it is to remain. Time, an hour or more to prepare. Chocolate Cream Grate 1 ounce of the best chocolate and 2 ounces of sugar into a pint of thick cream; boil it, stirring it all the time, until quite smooth; then add, when cool, the whites of 4 eggs beaten to a solid froth. Half fill the glasses, and whip the remainder into a froth to put at the top. Time, twenty minutes. WHIPPED CREAM The white of 1 egg should be allowed for every pint of good, thick cream. If this cannot ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 953 be procured, more eggs must be used. A good- looking dish may be made by boiling a quart of milk down to a pint, and mixing witb it tbe whites of 3 eggs. Sweeten -Snd flavor the cream before using it. For a plain whipped cream, this is done by rubbing the rind of a lemon upon 3 ounces of loaf sugar, and pounding it in a mortar, then mixing it with a glass of sherry or half a glass of brandy, the white of an egg beaten to a solid froth, and afterwards with the cream. Whip it to a froth with a scrupu- lously clean osier whisk. As it rises, take it off by tablespoonfuls, and put it on a sieve to drain. It is a good plan to whip the cream the day before it is wanted, as it is so much firmer. It should be made in a cool place, and kept in the same. It may be served in a variety of ways, either in glasses or in a glass dish, when it should be prettily garnished, or surrounded by sponge cake, macaroons, or ratafias. A apftnge cake may be made in the shape of -€ hollow cylinder, and filled with as much whipped cream as it will hold. Its appearance is improved by coloring part of it before whipping it. Dif- ferent fruit syrups are used for coloring and flavoring. Many persons dissolve a. teaspoon- ful of powdered gum arable in a little orange- flower water, and add this to the cream. It keeps the froth firmer. Clotted cream may be 6i 954 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS simply whipped by whisking it with a wire whisk until it thickens. If beaten too long it will turn to batter. Lttfnon Whip Juice of 4 lemons, 2 cupfuls sugar, % box of gelatine dissolved in % cupful of water, whites of 4 eggs, i/4 pound candied cherries, 1 pint of boiling water. Mix water, juice, sugar, and dissolved gelatine together; set on ice to cool. When beginning to harden add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and whip together thoroughly. Line mould with the cherries, and fill with mixture. Lemon Puff 10 eggs, yolks mixed thoroughly with juice of 2 lemons and grated rinds, 1 cupful of sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of water. Place in double boiler, cook until smooth and very thick. Then add^he whites, beaten very stiff, and stir the wholetegether, but lightly. This will serve ten persons. Junket An old-fashioned delicacy revived Put 1 pint of cream and 1 pint of milk in double boiler (all cream may be used or all milk) ; add % cupful of sugar, pinch of salt. When just lukewarm add 1 junket tablet dis- solved in 1 tablespoonful of cold water. Stir ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 955 thoroughly and pour at once into sherbet glasses, or dainty cups from which it may be eaten. Let stand about ten minutes in warm room till it sets, then put where it will become cold. You cannot use sterilized nor scalded milk. This is a very dainty, wholesome des- sert, and may be made very ornamental by dropping a spoonful of dry whipped cream on each glass and dotting it with candied cherries, or it may be colored a delicate rose by adding a drop of fruit coloring. Russian Cream Cover l^ box of gelatine with cold water and soak one hour. Put 1 quart of milk into double boiler, and when boiling add the gelatine, 1 cupful sugar beaten with the yolks of 4 eggs, and a little salt ; cook until it begins to curdle ; then cool, and stir into it the beaten whites of 4 eggs and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Put into cups and serve cold with whipped cream. When turned out of the cups, the jelly should be 1 inch thick on top. Bavarian Cream 1/2 box of gelatine (not acid); 1 quart new milk, 4 eggs, % cupful sugar, flavoring ex- tract. Soak the gelatine in a little warm water while the milk is coming to the boiling-point in a double boiler. Add the gelatine to the milk 956 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS just before it boils, and stir thoroughly. Add the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten very light, with the sugar. Mix well; take from the fire and set it to cool. When quite cool add the whites of the eggs, beaten very stiff, and the flavoring. Pour it into jelly glasses which have been rinsed in cold water, and set in the ice-box. This will make 8 glasses. It is better to make it several hours before using. "When cold turn out and serve with whipped cream. Shredded fruit is frequently added. Jellyfish Cream Fill ramekins with a pink Bavarian cream, chopped nuts, and fruit; when firm, unmould lemon jelly from small cups on top of each; garnish with moss parsley. Serve on small saucers with pink paper doily between cup and saucer. Cherry Cream Cook 2 heaping teaspoonfuls prepared tap- ioca in 1 pint of canned cherry juice for fifteen minutes; add sugar if needed; remove and, whUe hot, fold in stiffly beaten white of 1 egg ; pour in wet moulds ; serve ice-cold with whip- ped cream and fresh cherries. IC ES, PASTRY, AMP OTHER DESSERTS 957 PUDDING SAUCES Currant-Jelly Sauce Cream 2 tablespoonfuls butter; add grad- ually % cupful stiff currant jelly slightly soft- ened by standing in warm room. Beat well, and serve very cold. Cream Sauce Bring V3 pint cream slowly to boil; set in stewpan boiling water; when it reaches' boiling- point add sugar, then pour slowly on whipped whites of 2 eggs in bowl ; add 1 teaspoonful ex- tract vanilla, and use. Custard Sauce 1 pint milk, yolks 4 eggs, i/^ cupful sugar. Set over 'fire and stir until thick. Duchesse Sauce Boil 2 ounces grated chocolate in i/^ pint milk five minutes ; pour onto 2 yolks of eggs beaten with % gill cream and % cupful sugar; strain; return to fire, stir until thick as honey ; remove, and add 1 teaspoonful extract vanilla. Foaming Sauce Whip white 1 egg and % cupful powdered sugar to a stiff broth. Whip separately 1 cup- ful thick cream to a solid froth. Mix lightly together, flavor with 1 tablespoonful sherry. 958 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DEfSERTS Hard Sauce Beat 1 cupful sugar and % cupful butter to white cream ; add whites 2 eggs ; beat few min- utes longer; add tablespoonful brandy and tea- spoonful extract nutmeg; put on ice until needed, Golden Sauce Make hard sauce as above without egg whites or flavoring. Beat in gradually the yolks of 2 raw eggs, and add -flavoring to suit. The color may be accentuated by the addition of a little. yellow color-paste. Hygienic Cream Sauce i/o pint milk, % pint cream, yolk 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful buckwheat dissolved in little milk, large pinch salt. Bring milk and cream to boil in thick, well-lined saucepan; add to it buckwheat moistened in milk, stirring rapidly to prevent lumping ; allow it to boil five minutes ; remove from fire ; beat in the yolk of egg diluted with a tablespoonful milk. Molasses Sauce Boil together ten minutes 1 cupful molasses, 1 tablespoonful Aonegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, pinch salt. F!or apple puddings. Prune Sauce for Puddings Wash a quarter of a pound of prunes, and simmer them in as much water as will cover ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 959 them until they are quite soft. Drain and stone them, and blanch the kernels. Put fruit and kernels into a stewpan with the liquid in which they were boiled, a glassful of wine, the strained juice of half a lemon, a small strip of thin lemon rind, a teaspoonful of moist sugar, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes, then rub the sauce with, the bafk of^ a wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. If he pulp is too thick, dilute it with a little water. Time, one hour. Almond Sauce for Puddings Boil gently a half of a pint of water and half that quantity of new milk. Pour this slowly when boiling — stirring all the time — upon a dessertspoonful of arrowroot, mixed with a little water. Add sugar to taste, the beaten yolk of an egg, and enough essence of ahnonds to flavor nicely. Serve in a tureen. Do not pour the sauce over the pudding, as every one may not like the flavor. A little brandy may be added. Time, about ten min- utes to boil. Lemon Sauce for Puddings Put the rind and strained juice of a large lemon into a bowl. Pour over them a wine- glassful of sherry or raisin wine and a wine- glassful of water. Let them infuse some time. 960 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS Mix an ounce of fresh butter and an ounce of flour over the fire. When it is slightly browned gradually pour in the wine and water; add 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and boil gently until the mixture is quite smooth. Draw the sauce- pan from the fire, let the contents cool a minute ; then add the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Stir the mixture until it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added, or it will curdle. Time, four or five minutes to boil the sauce. Substitute orange for orange sauce. Sweet Pudding Sauces When any unusual sauce is appropriate to a pudding, the recipe is either given in this work with it, or a reference is made to it. The most usual sauces for puddings are — sweet sauce, wine sauce, arrowroot sauces, and fruit sauces. They are made as follows : Sweet Sauce. — Sweeten a little good melted butter, and flavor it with grated lemon rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon. Strew a little of the grate over the top, and serve in a tureen. A. little wine or brandy may be added at pleas- ure. This sauce is suitable for almost all ordi- nary boiled puddings. Wine Sauce. — Boil the thin rind of half a lemon or half an orange in a wineglassful of water till the flavor is extracted. Take out the ICES. PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 961 rind, and thicken the sauce by stirring into it a saltspoonfnl of flour which has been mixed smoothly with a piece of butter the size of a wabiut. Boil for a minute, then add half a tumblerful of any good wine. Let the sauce get quite hot without boiling, sweeten, and serve. If port is used, the juice of the lemon may be added. Superior Wine Sauce. — Take half a tumbler- ful of light wine (madeira or sherry) and mix thoroughly with it the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Place the bowl in boiling water, add a little sugar, and whisk over the fire till it is nicely frothed. Serve at once. Arrowroot Sauce. — Mix a tablespoonful of arrowroot smoothly, with a little cold water. Add the third of a pint of water, a glassful of wine, the juice of a lemon, and sugar and fla- voring. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils. This sauce may be varied by omitting the wine, and using milk or milk-and-water with the arrowroot. The juice of almost any fruit, too, may be boiled with the arrowroot. Fruit Sauces. — Boil fruit (almost any kind may be used) with a little water until it is quite soft. Eub it with the back of a wooden spoon through a fine sieve. Sweeten to taste, make it hot, and pour the sauce over the boiled or steamed pudding. 962 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS ICE CREAMS AND ICES Lemon Ice Cream Rasp the yellow rind of 2 large fresh lemons upon ^ pound of loaf sugar. Powder it, and strain over it the juice of 1 lemon. Add 1 quart of cream, stir until the sugar is dissolved, freeze, and serve. If milk has to be substituted for the cream, it may be enriched by the addi- tion of the yolks of 4 eggs. It must then be stirred over the fire until it is boiling hot, and the juice must not be added until the liquor has cooled. Time, half an hour to prepare. Mille Fruit Ice Cream Easp 2 lemons, take the juice of them, 1 glass of wine, 1 of grape syrup, 1 pint of thick cream, and 8 ounces of powdered sugar. Mix and freeze, and when sufficiently congealed add 4 ounces of preserved fruits, which cut small, and mix well with the ice. Let the cream remain in the ice until wanted. Apricot Ice Cream Rub through a fine sieve % pound of apricpt jam with 1 pint of cream, the strained juice of 1 lemon, half a dozen bitter almonds pounded, and 1 glass of noyau. Freeze twenty-five minutes. Or, take a dozen fine ripe apricots. Skin, stone, ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 963 and pulp them through a sieve with 1 pint of hot cream, and 5 or 6 ounces of the finest sifted sugar. Mould and freeze. The apricots may be scalded before they are pulped. Vanilla Ice Cream Pound V2 a stick of vanilla, and mix with it 1^ pound of sugar. Eub it through a hair sieve, and add V^ pint of milk and the yolks of 2 eggs. Simmer the mixture over a slow fire for ten minutes, stirring briskly all the time. When cool, add 1 pint of cream and a small pinch of salt. Freeze and mould in the usual way. Time, ten minutes to "simmer the custard. Chocolate Ice Cream Dissolve 4 pound of the best French choco- late in a breakfast-cupful of boiling water, add 11/^ pints of cream and % pound of sugar, boiled to a syrup; strain through silk and put into the\ ice pail. Freeze in the usual way. ' When frozen, add 3 gills of double cream, work till smooth, and close the freezer till the ice cream is wanted. Coffee Ice Cream Mix 1 breakfast-cupful of strong clear coffee with another of boiling milk, 6 tablespoonfuls of finely sifted sugar, and the yolks of 6 eggs. Stir the custard over a moderate 'fire until it 964 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS thickens, then add 1 pint of thick cream. Stir it again over the fire till the cream coats the spopn, but do not let it boil. Pour it out, when cold put it in a mould, and freeze in the usual way. Bohemian Ice Cream The smaller varieties of ripe red fruit are used to make this cream; they are pulped through a fine sieve, and to 1 pint of the juice thus procured, add li/^ ounces of the best isin- glass, dissolved in ^^ pint of water. Sweeten to taste, and squeeze in lemon juice if liked. Mix to this quantity 1 pint of sweetened whipped cream, and mould for freezing. These creams, where raspberries only are used, may be put into glasses, and made without isinglass — in the proportions of 1 pound of fruit juice to 1 pint of whipped cream. Time to freeze, about thirty minutes. Milanese Ice Cream < Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs with 1 pint of cream and % pound of finely sifted sugar ; add the mixture to 2 ounces of Naples biscuits re- duced to powder in I/2 Pi^t of milk. Put all into a bright stewp^^^) ^-^d stir until it is as thick as an ordinary custard, when it may be strained through a sieve. Add 1 glass of sherry wine when frozen, and then put it into a mould. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 965 Time, a few minutes to boil the custard. Suffi- cient for seven or eight persons. French Ice Cream Beat well the yolks of 4 eggs; add slowly 1 pint hot milk, and flavor with vanilla. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff, adding 1 cupful powdered sugar ; add 1 cupful slightly beaten rieh cream, fold the custard into the mixture and freeze. Keep stirring while freezing. Giact Napolitain Take 4 ounces of Carolina rice, wash it thor- oughly, and put it in a stewpan with 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of good cream, a pitteh of salt, and 2 ounces of sugar. Let the rice swell consider- ably in this. When it is tender enough to gpive way between the flngeas-s, add 1 stick of good vaniUa, and boil it one minute, then let it get cold. Whesn cold, take all the cream that re- mains liquid, and put it in a double boiler with yolks of 6 eggs; if there is not cream enough, add to it a little nulk. Stir this on the fire with a woodea spoon, and when the eggs are well done, and the mixture very thick, let it cool. Add to this 1 pint of double whipped cream, and after mixing the cream with the custard, taste if the latter is sweet enough. Do not make it too sweet. Then take some out in a basin, and 966 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS put it into the rice only, not into the freezing- pot ; next mix together the rice and cream, take out the vanilla, and put all the rest into the freezing-pot; work it well in the ice. When quite frozen, put it in ice-moulds that shut on both sides; put them in the pail with salt all round the ice. At dinner time dip the moulds in cold water, push the ice off the moulds, and cover the gateau with the cream that you have put by in the basin. Pistachio Ice Cream Blanch and peel y^ of a pound of pistachios, and pound them to a smooth paste with a few drops of rose-water. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs, and pour over them 1% pints of boiling milk; add 4 ounces of powdered sugar, and stir the custard over the fire until it begins to thicken ; then pour it out, and when cool stir into it the poundfed pistachios and a teaspoonful of spin- ach coloring. Pass the whole through a sieve: mould and freeze. If preferred, the pistachio paste can be mixed with cream instead of cus- tard. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the custard. Sufficient for 1 quart of ice cream. Nesselrode Pudding Peel two dozen Spanish chestnuts. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, then take ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 967 oft' the second skin, and boil them until tender with 1/2 stick of vanilla, and half the thin find of a fresh lemon in the water with them. Drain them well, and pound them in a mortetr. Press them through a hair sieve, and mix with them l^ of a pound of powdered sugar, 1 glass of maraschino, and y^. pint of thick cream. Dis- solve % of an ounce of best isinglass in a little water, stir it into y^ pint of hot cream, add the chestnuts* etc., and keep stirring the mixture gently until it is sufficiently stiff, to hold the fruit without letting it fall to the bottom. Work in 2 ounces of picked and dried currants, and 2 ounces of candied citron cut into thin strips. Put the mixture into an oiled njould, and set in a freezer surrounded by ice and salt, 3 hrs. Time, about | hr. to boil the chestnuts. Brown Bread Ice Cream Stale bread must be used for this cream, mif ed with an equal quantity of stale sponge cake. Take 2 sponge cakes and 2 thick slices of bre^d, grate them into a jug, and pour over 1/2 pint of milk, and 1 pint of cream, made sweet with 14 pound of sugar. Place the jug in a saucepan, and stir the contents over the fire until it gets thick. A few of the bread crumbs sifted very finely may be added with a glass of any liquor liked to the mixture when quite cold, 968 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS *" and just before, being put to freeze. Freeze for about twenty-five minutes. Baked Alaska Take block of ice cream, unmould onto a square of sponge cake an inch thick. Cover with a thick meringue put on artistically, made of white of eggs and powdered sugar. Have all ready for use before unmoulding ice cream. Place on board covered with white paper. Brown in hot oven, or with a salam'and'er or heated fire shovel. Ice-Cream Mask Lady fingers laid over mould ; join with royal icing put through tube; when firm slip over brick of ice cream, placed on dish ready to serve. Fruit parfait might be attractively served under this mask. Caramel ke Cream 1 pint milk, 1 eupful granulated sugar, i/^ Cftrpfol flour (small), 2 eggs, 1 quart cream, or 1 ■pmt cream and 1 pint miik, 1 eupful brown sugar burned in spider to a golden brown. Boil milk in doubie boiler, mix sugar, flour, and eggs together, add to the boiling mUk- Eeturn to stove and cook mixture twenty minutes, stirring frequently. Add browned sugar to above mix- ture, set away to cool, and just before freezing add the cream. ICES> PASTRY , AND OTHER DESSERTS 969 Fruit Cream % pound stewed apricots, sweetened to taste, 3 bananas, 3 oranges, 3 lemons, 3 cupfuls sugar, 3 cupfuls water. Place a sieve over a large bOwl, turn in the apricots, and rub all but the skin through. Remove the seeds from the ba- nanas, and sift the pulp. Pour the water in gradually to help the pulp go through the strainer. Squeeze the oranges and lemons, and strain into the fruit pulp. Add the sugar, and, when dissolved, freeze. I/2 piit cream may be added before freezing, if desired. The above will make 1 gallon. Vanilla Parfait Boil 1 cupful of sugar with % cupful of water until it is a smooth syrup (about ten minutes). Beat the yolks of 8 eggs until light, add the syrup, and cook over a slow fire, stirring con- stantly, until the mixture forms a thick, creamy coating oh the spoon. When taken from the fire, add 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. Turn it into a bowl and beat with a Dover egg-beater until cold. It will then be very light. When en- tirely cold add 1 piat of cream whipped very stiff. Stir lightly together, and turn the mix- ture into a mould. Cover with a thin paper be- fore putting on the cover, pack in ice and salt for four hours. This makes 1 quart. Chocolate 970 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS or coffee parf ait is made in a like manner, sub- stituting the desired flavoring as for ice cream. Biscuit 1 pint of sweet cream, 24 macaroons, ^/g cup pulverized sugar; whip the cream to its utmost consistency, then add the macaroons (pulver- ized), then the sugar; put in a pail, cover tight, and freeze without any stirring. Prepare this at noon and it will be ready for tea. DeliciouSt " Tried and tested." Frozen Fig Pudding 1 quart milk, 1% tablespoonfuls gelatine, 4 aggs, 1 cupful sugar, 14 pound English walnuts, 1/4 pound figs, vanilla to taste. Soak gelatine in cold milk. Put milk, eggs, and sugar in double boiler and cook to custard. Chop nuts and figs very fine and add with gelatine to cus- tard. Cool, add flavoring, turn into ice-cream freezer and freeze. Can be improved by sub- stituting cream for milk. Italian Cream Stir into 1 pint of thick cream- the rinds of 2 lemons rubbed off on lumps of sugar, and as much more pounded loaf sugar as will sweeten. Whiak up the cream with the juice of 1 lemon, strain 1 ounce or more of dissolved gelatine to it, and beat well together. Flavor with noyau ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 97J or curagoa, and fill a mould. Freeze, turn out, and garnish with any kind of sweetmeats or preserved fruits. Time, half an hour. Fish Ice Cream This may be either cream or sherbet, colored a delicate green and moulded in fish form. The fish may be of ice on a foundation of cream. Garnish with pale green and pink paper, f rUled to represent seaweed. The flavoring for it should be either mint or pistachio. Unmould on individual cream plates covered with paper doilies. IVIelon Cream Cut sections from a small musk melon so as to leave 'every other rib fastened at the top and bottom. Eemove seed and membrane, and fill the centre with delicately flavored cream, or lemon ice. Serve one melon to each person, and garnish with grape foliage. Chocolate Mousse Pack a 3-quart mould in salt ice, using 2 quarts salt and enough fine ice to pack solidly between the can and the tub. Cover and set in a cool place. Whip 1 quart cream and drain it well. Scrape 1 ounce of chocolate and put in a small frying-pan with 3 tablespoonfuls of boil- 972 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS ing water, place the pan on a hot part of the fire and stir until the mixture is smooth and glossy. Add % cupful of whipped cream to this, stirring well from the bottom of the pan. Then add remainder of whipped cream slowly. Wet ' mould in cold water, put in the mixture, pack and cover, sealing cover of mould. Put away for three or four hours in ice and salt when it will be delicious. ,Coffee flavoring can be sub- stituted for the chocolate. Surprise Melon Mark small melon into Vandykes — so as to form a cover — remove seeds and fibre; fill cavity with either ice cream or whipped cream ; mix with chopped fruit. Eeplace lid, and pin bow on top. . . Biscuit Glace Stir together 3 ounces sugar and 2 yolks of eggs, add a little vanilla. Dissolve Va box of gelatine, and strain it into the sugar and eggs, add 1 pint whipped cream, put into glasses and set on ice. (This should be made the day before it is served.)- fruit Mousse Whip 1 pint of cream very stiff, turn it into a sieve to drain, so that it will be perfectly dry. Mix with it 1 cupful of any fruit pulp, the juice ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 973 drained off, and the pulp mixed with, enougli powdered sugar to make it of the same con- sistency as the whipped cream; add a little va- nilla, pour into an ice-cream mould, lay a thin paper over the cream before putting on the cover, and pack in ice for three hours. Milk Sherbet 3 lemons, 2 oranges, rind of 1 orange, 1 pint of sugar, 1 quart of milk, or better, milk or cream. Put half the sugar with the milk and place into the freezer. Turn until it begins to get thick, then a-dd the juice and the rest of the sugar. Orange Sherbet 1 quart water, 1 pound sugar, 4 oranges, jttice of 1 lemon, whites of 3 eggs. Grate the rind of oranges and lemon in. a bowl, and add their juice. Now make a syrup of the sugar and water, to which add 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, having been soaked in cold water. When syrup is cold pour it on the grated rind and juice and strain into freezer and freeze. When half frozen beat up the whites of 3 eggs and add to the sherbet. Continue freezing until hard. Lemon Sherbet 2 quarts of milk, 11/2 pounds of sugar, juice of 6 lemons. Mix sugar and milk together ; put 974 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS in freezer, and when partly frozen add juice of lemons and freeze like ice cream. The grated rind and juice of 2 oranges may be added to the above if desired. Biscuit Tortoni Put the yolks of 6 eggs into a copper basin, add the following : 2 ounces of powdered sugar, a wineglassful of maraschino, and 1 tablespoon- ful of kirsch. Beat all well together. Place on stove, stir briskly for five minutes. Eemove basin into a pan of cracked ice or ice water, and stir briskly for a few minutes more. Add 1 part of whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Let mixture stand for ten minutes; pour into paper cases, cover with powdered macaroon crumbs, and freeze, by putting a grating or pan in tub filled with ice and salt — if the regular glace freezing-box is not obtainable. Time, one and a half hours. Water Ices Water ices are made of the juices of ripe fruits mixed with syrup and frozen ; and it must be remembered that if the juices are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is there- fore necessary to test them with an instrument called a saccharometer. To do this, put the mixture prepared for freezing in a tumbler, place the saccharometer gently in it: if it is ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 975 mixed correctly for freezing with powder it will sink to the highest red mark ; for freezing with ice and salt to the lowest red mark. To make it" sink, add water to the mixture; to make it rise, add syrup. These remarks apply also to ice creams, ice puddings, and all drinks which are to be frozen. For water ices clarified sugar should be used ; and this may be made by boiling for ten minuted, and skimming thoroughly, a quart of water with 3 pounds of sugar and % the white of an egg well whisked. Having pre- pared the mixture and also ascertained its strength, put it into an ice-pot. Place it in the ice-pail, and surround it with ice which has been broken almost to powder and mixed with salt and a little saltpetre. Work the freezer rapidly for ten minutes ; then remoye the ice from the sides of the freezer with the ice-spattle, and work it again till it is stiff and smooth. Put it into the mould, and leave it in ice mixed with salt and saltpetre till it is to be served. To turn it out, wipe it with a cloth, dip it in cold water for a minute, and wipe it dry ; lift off the ends of the mould, and with the fingers push the ice upon its dish. Almond and Orange Ice Blanch and pound 1 ounce of sweet almonds with a little orange-flower water to prevent 976 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS them oiling. Put them into a saucepan with 1 pint of cream and the yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten. Stir constantly till the egg thickens; then pour it out, let it cool, put it into the freez- ing-pot, and work the handle until it is suffi- ciently frozen. Put half a pound of loaf sugar and a cupful of water into an enamelled sauce- pan, with the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, and the thin rind of an" orange. Put it on the fire and bring it to a syrup, then add to it ^ three-quarters of a pint of orange- juice. Strain this and freeze it like the almond cream. Put a piece of cardboard into the mould, divid- ing it in two. Place the almond ice on one side and the orange ice on the other. Remove the cardboard, close the mould, and let it remain in the ice until wanted. Time, half an hour to freeze. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Strawberry Sherbet 1 pint of crushed strawberries ; 1 pint water ; 1 pint sugar ; juice of 2 lemons. Freeze. Any fruit may be substituted for strawberries. Lemon Ice Take the juice of 4 lemons, add 3 pints of thin syrup made with about 1 pint of sugar. Into every quart, when it begins to freeze, stir the whites of 2 eggs, beaten very light With a little powdered sugar. This will make it smooth. __ ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 977 Any kind of water ice may be made by mixing •the strained jnice of the fruit — currant, rasp- berry, strawberry, etc. — with syrup flavored to taste, and add the white of an egg when it begins to freeze. Sorbet of Kirschenwasser Make some ice as follows: Mix thoroughly a pint of syrup at 35°, and a pint of chablis. Strain the mixture through silk into a freezing- pan, and freeze in the usual way. When frozen, flavor it with 3 tablespoonfuls of kirschen- wasser. Put the sorbet into glasses, and serve it at dinner with the roasts. Iced Roman Punch Put 2 pounds of finely powdered sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of 10 lemons and 2 sweet oranges. Add the thin rind of a lemon and an orange, and let the infusion remain for one hour. Strain the syrup through muslin, add gradually the whites of 10 eggs beaten to a firm froth, and freeze the punch in the usual way, being careful to work it vigor- ously with the spattle while it is being frozen. A few minutes before serving mix together a pint of old white Jamaica rum, half a pint of green tea, half a pint of brandy, and a bottle of champagne. Add the ice, and stir briskly till it dissolves. A pint of pineapple syrup may 978 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS be added or not. This punch should be thick and creamy in appearance. If it is too thiclc to be poured into glasses, it should be, thinned with a little more champagne. Iced Eoman punch should be handed round in high glasses between the first and second courses. Sorbet of Rum Make the ice as before, but before squeezing mix With the sorbet a quarter of a pint of strained lemon juice. When frozen, flavor with 3 tablespoonfuls of fine old Jamaica rum, and serve it in glasses with the roasts. Punch Lalla Rookh Freeze the French ice cream to the consist- ency of a thick frozen cream, but not quite solid. Beat with it a wineglassful of Jamaica rum. Serve in glasses. CANDIES General Directions Granulated sugar is preferred in ordinary candy-making. Cream of tartar should not be added until the syrup begins to boil. Butter should be put in when the candy is almost done. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 979 The flavoring will be more delicate if added just before taking the candy from the fire. How to Pull Candy Boil the candy until it becomes brittle when tried in water; then turn on a buttered platter. 'WTien cool enough to handle, butter your hands well, take up what candy you can easily handle, thro-w it over a buttered hook, and pull both ends toward you; then clap together and pull over the hook again, repeating the process until the candy is white and creamy. Flavor and color when ready for pulling. Cut into sticks. Butter Scotch 1 cupful of molasses, 1 cupful of butter. Boil until the mixture forms a soft ball when tried in cold water. Bonbons Take fresh candied orange rind, or citron. Scrape off the sugar that adheres to it ; then cut into small squares. Boil some sugar to the con- sistency of candy, and with a fork take up the squares and dip them singly into the sugar. Then place them on a dish rubbed with a very small quantity of salad-oil. When quite cold, put them into dry tin boxes, with paper be- tween each layer. 980 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS Chocolate Caramels 1 cupful of sweet milk, 1 cupful of molasses, % cupful of sugar, % a cupful of grated choc- olate, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Let it boil until thick, and stir constantly. Turn it out on buttered plates, and mark it in squares when it begins to stiffen, so that it will break readily when cold. Cream Caramels 2 cupfuls sugar, 1 cupful of milk or cream; flavor with vanilla to taste. Cook sugar and milk until the mixture forms a soft ball in cold water. Take from the fire, add the vanilla, and beat until creamy. Set to cool and cut in squares. Lemon and Peppermint Drops Take the desired quantity of granulated sugar; add a very little water, just enough to make with the sugar a stiff paste. 2 ounces of water to a pound of sugar is about the right proportion. Set it over the fire and allow it to nearly boil,' stirring it constantly. It must be removed from the fire just as soon as the bubbles, denoting that the boiling-point is reached, begin to rise. Let the syrup cool a little, stirring all the time; add strong essence of peppermint or lemon to suit the taste, and drop on sheets of ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 98J smooth white paper. They should be kept in a warm place for a few hours to dry. Delicious drops may be made by substituting the juice of fresh fruits. Plain Taffy 2 cupfuls of white sugar, V2 cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, a piece of butter the size of an egg. Flavor with vanilla just before pouring out. Boil without stirring until crisp when tried in water. When cool enough to handle pull with your finger-tips until white. The longer the taffy is pulled the better it will be. Cream Cocoanut Candy Take II/2 pounds of sugar, 1/2 cupful of milk. Boil ten minutes, then add 1 grated cocoanut. Boil until thick. I*ut on greased pans quite thick, and when quite cold cut into strips. Cooked Cream Walnuts 2 cupfuls sugar, V3 cupful water. Boil with- out stirring until it will spin a thread; flavor with extract vanilla. Set off into dish with cold water in; when at blood heat stir briskly until white and creamy, then knead and work with the hands for several minutes. Have wal- nuts shelled; make cream into small round cakes with your fingers ; press half a walnut on 982 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS either side, and drop into sifted granulated sugar. For cream dates, take fresh dates, re- move stones, and fill centre of dates with this same cream. Drop into sugar. Uncooked Creamed Nuts Mix 1 pound confectioner's sugar, white 1 un- beaten egg, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, and 2 tea- spoonfuls cold water to a stiff paste. Shape in little balls ; press between halved walnut or other nut meats. Stoned dates and large raisins may be filled with this cream, or it may be mixed with chopped nuts, shaped in bars, and cut in squares. Hickory-Nut Candy 1 cupful hickory nuts (meats), 2 cupfuls sugar, % cupful water. Boil sugar and water, without stirring, until thick enough to spin a thread; flavor with extract lemon or vanilla. Set off into cold water ; stir quickly until white ; then stir in nuts; turn into flat tin; when cold cut into small squares. Velvet Molasses Candy Put 1% pounds sugar, % pint molasses, I/2 pint water, % cupful vinegar, in agate kettle. , Heat; when boiling add y2 teaspoonful cream tartar; boil till it crisps in cold water. Stir; when almost done add 14 pound butter, i/^. tea- spoonful soda. Cool in buttered pan and pull. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 983 Peanut Brittle Shell and chop roasted nuts to measure 1 pint. Put 2 pounds granulated sugar in clean i'rying-pan. Stir over slow fire. It will lump, then gradually melt. When pale coffee color and clear, add nuts and pour quickly on but- tered tin sheet. Roll thin as possible. Wher cold break up. Maple Sugar Caramel 1 pint of cream, 1 pound maple sugar. Break the sugar into small pieces, mix with the cream, and cook until it sugars around the edge of kettle and j^ardens on ice. Stir constantly. Pour into flat tins, cut in squares, when cool. Chopped butternuts may be added. Fudges 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 2 cupfuls white sugar (or use all white sugar), 1 cupful milk, a piece of butter size of a walnut, 2 squares chocolate. Still all the time it is boiling. Flavor with va- nilla. After you take it off the stove, stir until it is almost hard, then pour into buttered pans. Penuchi 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 2 cupfuls white sugar, 1 cupful milk, a piece of butter size of a wal- 1 nut. Use either walnuts or hickory nuts, chop- ped very fine. Make as fudge. 984 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS _ . ^ ___ Comanche Make both the above recipes. Pour the brown fudge into a buttered pan, and pour the white fudge over it. Nougat Nougat is a sort of paste made of sugar, ahnonds, pistachio nuts, or filberts, and used by confectioners for makiag pretty sweet dishes. A little practice is necessary before it can be well made. The process is as follows : Blanch 1 pound of Jordan almonds; dry them well in a soft cloth, cut them into quarters, put them on a baking-sheet in a cool oven, and let them remain until quite hot through and lightly browned. When they are nearly ready, put half a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pa-n without any water; move it about with a wooden spoon. When it is melted and begins to bubble, stir in the hot almonds gently, so as not to break them. Have ready the mould which is to be used slightly but thoroughly oiled, and spread the .paste all over it about a quarter of an inch thick. This is the difficult part of the operation, as the nougat hardens very quickly. The pan in which it is should be kept in a warm place to prevent its stiffening before the mould is finished. It is a good plan to spread out a piece for the bottom of the ICE S, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 985 mould first, and put that in its place ; tlien pieces for the sides. Care must be taken, however, to make these pieces stick closely together. A cut' lemon dipped in oil is a great assistance in spreading the paste. When the nougat is firmly set, turn it out carefully and serve it on a stand filled with whipped cream, or as re- quired. Time to boil the sugar, till it is well melted. Almond Creams Blanch and poimd 5 ounces of sweet and 1 ounce of bitter almonds to a paste ; put to this loaf sugar to taste, rubbed with lemon rind and pounded. , Rub smoothly a dessertspoonful of corn flour into a quart of milk, or, if it is to be had, use a pint and a half of cream; add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten. Put the whole, when well mixed, into a saucepan ; set it on the fire and stir constantly until it thickens ; but on no account allow it to boil. The whites of the eggs may be whisked, and a little placed on the top of each glass. Time, about ten minutes to boil the cream. Almond Chocolate Drops Put a metal mortar in a hot oven till it is well heated; throw into it a quarter of a pound of cake chocolate broken into small pieces; pouiid 63 986 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS it to a paste, then mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar. Blanch, slice, and dry in a cool oven 2 ounces of sweet almonds; roll each slice smoothly in a little of the choc- olate paste, and put them upon sheets of writ- ing paper till they are cold. Time to prepare, about one hour. Popcorn Balls Boil 1 pint New Orleans molasses and % cup- ful of sugar until brittle when dipped into cold water. Pour over popcorn; mix together thor- oughly and shape into balls, and place on greased marble slab or buttered plates. CHEESE DISHES Welsh Rarebit Brillat Savarin, the famous French gourmet, gives the following recipe taken from the papers of M. TroUet, bailiff in Meudon, in the Canton of Berne : ' ' Take as many eggs as you wish, according to the number of guests, and weigh them ; then take a piece of cheese weigh- ing a third of the weight of the eggs, and a slice of butter weighing a sixth; beat the eggs well up in a saucepan, after which put in the butter ^nd cheese, the latter either grated or ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 987 chopped up very small; place tHe saucepan on a good fire, and stir it with a flat spoon until the mixture becomes sufficiently thick and soft; add a little salt and a large portion of pepper, and serve it up in a hot dish. Bring out the best wine, and let it go round freely, and won- ders will be done." Welsh Rarebit-No. 2 Butter tdast, keep it hot. Into a saucepan or chafing-dish put 1 pound young cream cheese that has been grated; season with a dasli of red pepper and paprika, % teaspoonful pow- dered mustard, 1 tablespoonful butter; keep stirring. When cheese is nearly dissolved add 1 wineglassful of good musty or other alfe or beer. Put toast in hot soup-plate, pour over cheese, and serve with beer or ale. Welsh Rarebit without Ale 1/4 pound grated cheese, 1 ounce butter, % cupful of milk, and yolks of 2 raw eggs beaten together, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 saltspoonful of dry mustard, 1 saltspoonful of pepper, and a little cayenne. Mix these ingredients to- gether in a saucepan and stir over the fire until melted perfectly smooth. Have prepared 3 slices of toast on a hot dish and pour the dress- ing over and serve. 988 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS Golden Buck. — A golden buck is a Welsh, rarebit with a poached egg laid on it. Yorkshire Rarebit. — A Yorkshire rarebit is a golden buck with a slice of broiled bacon laid on it. All rarebits may be prepared at the table in a chafing-dish, if the grated cheese and toast are prepared in the kitchen. Cheese Fondue , Put into a saucepan 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 of flour, and stir until they bubble, then add a gill of milk or cream. This now makes a very thick white sauce, which must be stirred well to prevent burning. When smooth stir in 3 ounces grated cheese, salt, pinch of paprika, and take it from the fire and stir in 2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Turn into a buttered granite dish ; bake from ten to fifteen minutes, and serve at once. Cheese Souffl6 Into a cup of hot cream stir the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, a half cupful of soft bread crumbs, and a cupful of grated American cheese ; season with a little salt, a dash each of cayenne and mace. Cook three . minutes, or until the egg thickens. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites, pour into the buttered soufiBe-dish, and bake about fifteen minutes in a moderately hot oven. ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 989 Serve the moment it has reached the right stage of puffiness, when it should be slightly browned on the top. If one has no cream, milk and a tablespoonful of butter can be used. Cheese Omelet Whisk 2 eggs thoroughly. Allow a pinch of salt, the same of pepper, half a teaypoonful of finely chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan or other cheese. Mix com- pletely. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into the frying-pan. When it is hot, pour in the mixture, and stir it with a wooden spoon until it begins to set. Discontinue stirring, but shake the pan for a minute or so ; when cooked fold the omelet in two. When it is lightly browned, turn it on a hot dish. It must not be overdone. The inside ought to be quite juicy. If it is preferred, the cheese may be finely grated and strewed over the omelet after it is cooked, instead of mixed with it before. Time to fry, three minutes. Cheese Fritters Cheese which has become a little dry will answer for this purpose, though, of course, fresh cheese will be better. Put 3 ounces of cheese in a mortar, with a dessertspoonful of finely minced ham, 3 dessertspoonfuls of finely 990 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS grated bread crumbs, a teaspoonful of dry mus- tard, a piece of butter about the size of a small egg, 2 or 3 grains of cayenne, and the yolk of an egg well beaten. Pound these ingredients together until they are perfectly smooth, then form the paste into balls about the size of a walnut, flatten to a thickness of half an inch, dip them in batter, and fry them until lightly browned, and drain. Place them on a napkin, and serve as hot as possible. Time to fry, two or three minutes. Parmesan Cheese and Oysters Lay the drained oysters in a well-buttered baking-dish, sprinkle over with minced parsley, and season with pepper and salt. Pour half a glassful of champagne over all, and put a thick cover of grated Parmesan cheese. Set in the oven until it is well browned. When it is done, drain off the fat and serve at once in 'the dish it was baked in. Cheese Pudding Put a breakfast-cupful of milk into a sauce- pan, with a piece of butter the size of a large egg. Let it remain until the butter is melted, then pour it over three-quarters of a pound of bread crumbs and half a pound of grated cheese ; let these soak for twenty minutes, then ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS 99 J add a pincli of salt and 4 eggs, well beaten. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven. This is a good way to finish up a rather dry crust of cheese. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour; Cheese Straws Mix 2 ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 ounces of fresh butter, 2 ounces of flour, an ounce of Cheddar cheese, and the yolk of an egg into a stiff paste. Flavor the mixture with cayenne, salt, and a very little pounded mace. Roll this out rather thinly, cut it into fingers about 4 inches long and 1/2 inch wide, bake thein for a few minutes in a quick oven, and serve cold. They should be piled on a dish in trans- verse rows. Cherry Cheese Take some sound, ripe, small cherries, stoned or not, as preferred; put them into a stone jar, cover it closely, and place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. When the cherries are sufficiently tender, take them from the fire, skin and stone them, and add half a poimd of finely sifted sugar to every pound of fruit. Add a few of the kernels, blanched. Put the mixture into a preserving-pan and boil it, 992 ICES, PASTRY, AND OTHER DESSERTS gently stirring it all the time, until the fruit is so dry that it will not adhere to the finger when touched, and is quite clear. Press it quickly into shallow jars which have been damped with brandy. Cover closely, and keep in a dry place. Time, two hours. CHAFING-DISH RECIPES. Poached Eggs with Anchovy or Caviare Poaclied eggs are prepared in the regular way, and will be found very adaptable to the chafing-dish. Serve on toast. The toast may first be spread with anchovy or caviare, mak- ing the dish more of a delicacy. Deerfoot Farm Sausages and Bacon Put brazier on and when it has become hot then put in the sausages and bacon. When done on one side turn to the other. These form a very good and substantial combination with scrambled eggs. Eemove part of the fat and add the eggs, no butter being necessary. Bacon and sausages folded into an omelet is another means of serving them. Preparation For nearly all chafing-dish recipes it must be taken into account that at most two chafing- dishes are used; therefore, to facilitate matters, all preparations possible must be made in ad- vance. Any meats, fish, etc., that have to be prepared before to have ready for the final 993 994 CHAFING-DISH REOPES chafing-dish composition, cook during the day, and have them cold, ready for heating and for final use. For meat, etc., that is desired to brown quickly, remove the undei* water-pan. Veal Kidney Saut6 Take a veal kidney, remove tissue, etc., split. Marinate in olive-oil; skewer through the kid- ney cross-ways, with steel skewers procured for that purpose. Have a tablespoonful of butter very hot in the brazier. Put in kidney, and brown. Have a tablespoonful of minced onion ; add to the kidney ; brown in the butter ; it gives a light delicate flavor to the kidneys. Cover, and cook for ten minutes. Put on platter. Let butter get a rich brown, and pour over the kid- neys. Serve on toast, Venetian Eggs Slice 1 small onion, fry in butter in the chaf- ing-dish ; add 1 cup of canned tomatoes ; sea- son with 1 teaspoonful of salt, J pepper, and 1 tablespoonful butter. Cook for ten minutes. • Break 6 eggs into a dish and drop into chaf- ing-dish. Take large fork and instead of stir- ring raise the contents repeatedly from the bottom up, so as not to break the yolks. Just before serving, add 2 tablespoonfuls of grated or Parmesan cheese. Serve on hot crackers or toast. CHAFING-DISH REpiPES 995 Tripe a la Creole Prepare tripe same as calf's brains, only boil until tender. Cut up into small pieces. Pre- pare Creole sauce, as for omelet a la Creole. To the mixture add tbe tripe, using 1 cupful of tomatoes instead of 1 tomato, and 1 teaspoonful of beef extract. Tripe d la Poulette Prepare tripe, then proceed as for creamed chicken; adding to either the chicken or the tripe a dozen small button mushrooms. Will be found a palatable addition. Sweetbread Saut6 Prepare sweetbreads. Put 1 tablespoonful butter into chafing-dish; let it get brown color. Dip the sweetbread into beaten egg, then bread crumbs, and brown in hot butter ; when brown, cover, and simmer for ten minutes. Serve with slice of lemon and chopped parsley. Clams h la Newburg Prepare as for Oysters a la Newburg. Calf's Brain with Scrambled Egg Blanch c'alf's brain, by first washing in ice water ; then put into boiling water to which have been added a few whole peppers, i/o bay leaf, 1 spoonful of vinegar. Boil for five minutes ; re- 996 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES move ; set on ice to cool, remove tissue, and beat up, forming a creamy batter. Put in the chafing-dish 2 tablespoonfuls of butter ; heat. Beat up 4 eggs, add % cupful of brains. When butter is hot add 2 tablespoon- fuls of cream to the egg mixture, and scramble the eggs. Sweetbreads a la Crfeme Procure 2 large firm sweetbreads; soak in cold water for two hours, keeping the water cold by changing several times. Then put in chafing-dish, cover with cold water, bring to a boil; boil ten minutes. Remove and again put in cold water; dry, and remove all fibre and tissue. Cut into dice, and proceed as for creamed chicken. Crab-Meat with Green Peppers Have ready flaked crab-meat; be sure that it is well cleared of cellular tissue. Put into chaf- ing-dish 1 tablespoonful of butter ; heat and put in the crab-meat. Season with salt, pepper, paprika ; slice in thin rings of sweet green pep- per ; cover, and allow to simmer for a few min- utes. Add % pint or cupful of rich cream. Cook for ten minutes, and serve on toast. Little Pigs in Blankets Season a few large oysters with salt and pep- per. Wrap each in thin slice of best bacon and CHAFING-DISH RECIPES 997 fasten with wooden toothpick. Have chafing- dish very hot, and cook pigs just enough to crisp bacon. Serve on toast or platter, gar- nishing with parsley. Oyster Rarebit Clean and remove the hard muscle from % pint oysters ; put 1 tablespoonful butter and i/. pound cheese into the chafing-dish; mix 1 salt- spoonful each of salt, mustard, and a dash of cayenne pepper. While this mixture is melting, beat 2 eggs, and add to the oyster liquor. Mix this gradually with the melted cheese, then add the oysters, and serve at once on hot toast. Lobster a la Newburg Take pint measure of diced boiled looster, put into brazier or chafing-dish. Add seasoning of salt, 1 teaspoonful; cayenne pepper, a dash; '2 tablespoonfuls butter, or the same of minced truffles. Stir together; add wineglassful of ma- deira, or sherry wine ; stir, and cook eight min- utes. To 2 well-beaten yolks add 1/2 cupful of cream; add to the lobster meat, stirring all well together, but do not let it boil. Serve on toast with little French finger rolls. Oysters h la Newburg Put into the ehafing-dish 1 quart strained oysters; simmer for a few minutes until the 998 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES edges curl up. Spason with cayenne, 1 salt- spoonful salt, and a little celery salt. Add the sherry or madeira, and proceed as for lobster a la Newburg. Broiled Oysters Take large oysters; dry on napkin; dip in olive-oil; then in bread crumbs. Put 1 table- spoonful of butter into chafing-dish. Have very hot, and put in the oysters ; fry a golden brown ; serve with slice of lemon, and decorate with parsley. Serve on toast. Creamed Codfish Flake cold boiled codfish, or soak for six hours salted or prepared codfish. Put 1 table- spoonful of butter into a chafing-dish; when hot stir in 1 tablespoonful of flour. Stir to a paste; add gradually % cupful of milk and 1 cupful of cream. Bring to a boil ; then add the cod or other cold fish. If salt fish is used, omit salt in the seasoning ; use pepper or paprika. Serve on toast. Creamed Lobster Is prepared in the same way as creamed chicken, omitting celery and green pepper, which are usually treated as two distinct methods of serving chicken. This is a very pleasing dish, and is not so rich as lobster a la Newburg. • CHAFING-DISH RECIPES 999 Terrapin Mince or dice 1 terrapin. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne. Put into cliafing-disli 3 table- spoonfuls butter ; when hot, add the minced ter- rapin ; cover with 1 cupful of the stock from the boiling of the terrapin. Bring to a boil ; add 1 minced truffle, a few minced mushrooms. Stir all together ; reduce the stock about two-thirds ; add 1 wineglassful of sherry or madeira. Dis- solve 1 teaspoonful of arrowroot in 1 cupful rich cream ; season with nutmeg, and pour over the terrapin; bring to a boil. Serve in individual copper saucepan, with French finger bowls or in deep plate. Omelet Beat separately 4 eggs. Season yolks with salt, pepper, cayenne; add 2 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream ; add whites. Have lump of but- ter size of walnut in the chafing-dish. Let it get a light brown; pour in the eggs; as soon as eggs begin to set at bottom, run knife along the edge (an artist's palette knife will be found to be useful on all such occasions) . If it does not ad- here to the bottom, and there is sufficient butter there to keep it from doing so, cover so that the omelet will cook through. When cooked, fold over and slip out on platter, or serve right in the chafing-dish. tOOO CHAraVG-DISH RECIPES French Omelet Into a bowl put 4 eggs, season with salt. Into chafing-dish put 1 tablespoonful of butter; when heated, pour into chafing-dish the well- beaten eggs. Take spoon or fork and draw from the edge of the dish to the centre, which will give the layer-like composition noticed in French omelets. Instead of folding in half, fold each edge to the centre ; then fold again, or be- gin at the edge and roll up, making first fold about an inch and a half. Have parsley garni- ture for plain omelet, or mince parsley and sprinkle the omelet before folding. Spanish Omelet Put butter in chafing-dish. Have ready 1 tablespoonful each of chopped onions, green pepper, mushrooms, pickles, and 1 tomato, or y^ cupful canned tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, paprika, ^ teaspoonful ' ' kitchen bou- quet," and 1/2 teaspoonful beef extract, or add 1 tablespoonful of cooked minced ham or bacon. Stir all together; allow to steam "while preparing the omelet, stirring occasionally to see that it does not bum. Prepare omelet as in previous recipe. When all is ready remove the mixture from the chafing-dish into covered vegetable dish. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter into the chafing-dish; cook the omelet; before CHAFING-DISH RECIPES JOOI folding over add the filling; fold over, and serve. Cheese Omelet Sprinkle omelet witli grated Parmesan cheese and fold over. Nut Omelets Have whatever filling desired ready. If nuts are used, stew them first in a little water ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, season with salt, and use for filling. Sweet Omelets Spread omelet with jam, jelly, honey, or crushed fresh fruit or berries ; adding to these omelets, in place of pepper or other additions, sugar. Rum Omelet Prepare French omelet without parsley; roll together before removing from the chafing- dish ; pour over a winegLassful of Jamaica rum. Sprinkle omelet plentifully with powdered sugar. Take a long-handled mixing-spoon, fill with rum, and set fire to it. By dipping it into the remaining liquor the whole will become ig- nited. Baste the omelet as long as the rum bums. Keep the omelet weU covered with powdered sugar. 64 1002 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES vScrambled Eggs Put in the brazier 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Beat in a bowl 6 eggs; season with salt and pepper (white and cayenne). For each egg al- low 1 tablespoonful of milk, or milk and cream mixed ; have all stirred well together. As soon as butter begins to turn a light brown, intro- duce the eggs ; stir in one direction with large silver soup spoon as soon as the eggs begin to set. A combination of ham may be added by having minced ham ready and adding it first to the butter and cooking it a few minutes, then pouring oyer the eggs. Serve on toast. Welsh Rarebit The recipe given for Welsh rarebit, to be found under heading of ' ' Cheese Dishes, ' ' will be found to be adaptable to a chafing-dish, and these are tried and true recipes. Creamed Toast Prepare buttered toast and trim the edges. Put butter into chafing-dish; add 1 pint rich cream, put in as many slices as the dish will hold; when saturated, take up carefully, put into covered tureen, and put in more toast, al- lowing one piece for each person, and a few extra pieces, when all the toast is prepared. Add another pint of cream ; bring to a boil and pour over the toast in the tureen. Serve in deep CHAFING-DISH REOPES 1003 dishes. Use soup ladle for dishing up toast. Mix together % cupful granulated sugar with 14 tablespoonful powdered cinnamon, and serve with any milk dishes; to be used according to the individual taste, by sprinkling over the toast creamed rice, etc. Creamed Chicken Have ready cold chicken. Dice, season with salt, pepper. Celery stalks, cut very thin cross- ways, are an excellent addition. Put 1 table- spoonful butter into chafing-dish ; let it become hot. Put in the chicken ; stir for a few minutes until all becomes heated; pour in 1 cupful of cream; or if cream is not available, use rich milk. Cover and stew for fifteen minutes, stir- ring occasionally. If milk is used, dilute, 1 tablespoonful flour with cold milk, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg at last moment to give richness. Serve on toast. Sweet green pepper shredded in with the chicken is a dish to delight the epicure. Broiled Chicken For broiling chicken or other foods, remove the under section that contains the water. Put butter into the brazier. Have very small young chicken split; wipe, singe, and dry; rub it with salad-oil, and sprinkle with salt. Have butter in brazier very hot, and only enough to prevent 1004 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES the meat from burning; brown quickly. When well browned on both sides, add 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter, and turn chicken in the brazier so that the meat is toward the bottom of the dish. Put pieces of butter in hollows made thus ; hav- ing the chicken inverted put on cover of chafing- dish and baste occasionally with the melted but- ter from the bottom of the dish. About twenty to thirty minutes should be sufficient to cook through thoroughly. Serve with Saratoga chips, which can be obtained freshly prepared at many shops. Serve with toast. Creamed Mushrooms Put into chafing-dish % cupful of butter. When hot put in 1 pound or quart. of button mushrooms, or other mushrooms that have been washed and peeled. Simmer the mushrooms untU tender; then add, stirring in carefully, 1 pint rich cream; season with salt, pepper, and paprika. Eeduce the cream somewhat by sim- mering five or ten minutes longer. Serve on toast. Finnan Haddie Oet a nice, firm, fresh-looking finnan haddie. Cut a good steak out of the centre of the fish, about five inches square. This should be suffi- cient for three people. Have water boiling in the brazier and put the fish into it. Boil for CHAFING-DISH RECIPES 1005 ten minutes ; drain, put into covered dish. Put into the ehaflng-dish % cupful of butter; add i/o teaspoonful pepper, a little paprika, and the juice of 1/4 lemon. Simmer for a few minutes until butter is hot; and pour into gravy bowl, and serve on the side. NUTS AND THEIR USES In recent years the uses of the nut have be- come many. Formerly nuts were served with the raisins as a second dessert, and invariably placed on the table with the demi-tasse of black coffee. As the next development in the way of table service came the salted nut-meats, put on as a side-dish the same as olives, etc. The latest development is the use of nuts for all manner of concoctions by themselves or mixed with other ingredients. From the days of early Plymouth, people in this country have been addicted to cakes and candies. Therefore we will turn to the later addition of nuts to the culinary achievements. Scientific analysis of the nut shows that it is most valuable as a food. It builds up muscle, and does not fatten. People sufferirig from indigestion, and other stomach troubles, get relief and nourishment by eating certain of the nuts, salted. J006 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES Throughout the recipes -will be found combi- nations with nut-meat. The following are a few of the every-day nuts thus ^utilized : almonds, beechnuts, Brazilian, butternuts, chestnuts, co- coanuts, filbert or hazel, hickory, English wal- nuts, black walnuts, the litchi or Chinese nut, peanuts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts. These nuts are so well known that it will be unnecessary to give a description of them, so I will proceed to the making of Nut Butter Shell the nuts, using only the nut-meat. Purchase a stone mortar and pestle, such as are used by the apothecary. ( They will be found to answer for many other purposes.) Pound and grind the nuts with the pestle until they have become a cream. If of too thick a consistency, add a little water; then put into corked glass jars. In summer nut-butter is apt to become rancid, so I would not advise the making of too large quantities. The Brazil nuts are fre- quently added in part to the other nuts, being made into butter so as to enhance the flavor. Almond, Brazil, pecans, walnuts, and peanuts make the best butter. Nuts may also be ground in a meat grinder using the knife which comes for the purpose. When using almonds always remove the brown skin by steeping in hot water for a few minutes, then rub off with a coarse towel. CHAPING-DISH REQPES J007 Salted Nuts Have ready the nut-meat, sprinkle over witli very fine salt. Put in baking-pan in the oven, and keep shaking the pan, so that the nuts will all become slightly crisp and brown. Sugared Nuts Use powdered sugar instead of salt. Marron Glac^ The imported product is best, although the native chestnut can be used, but is so much smaller. Parboil the chestnuts; shell, and put into boiling lightly salted water until tender, but not too soft, as they will fall in pieces. Make a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and % pii^t water, stirring with wooden spoon. Drain and care- fully dry the nuts, then put into the syrup. When it comes to a boil, simmer until the nuts take on a dark brown color and seem trans- parent. Put into jars and cover with the syrup, or put on glazed paper. These will kedp for some time. Cocoanut The cocoanut is used as an ingredient in many dishes and should be finely grated. Chestnuts The preparation of chestnuts will be found under the head of Vegetables. J008 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES Glazed Nuts Use copper kettle and make a synip of 1 pound of granulated sugar and % cupful of water. Boil, while stirring, until it will harden when dropped into cold water. Remove from the fire, being careful to keep the syrup amber- colored. Use candy-dipper ; dip each nut in the syrup; take out, using a spoon in conjunction with the dipper, and put on glazed paper or marble slab. Flavor the syrup, if desired, after removing from fire with the juice of % a lemon or less. Fruit is glazed in the same way. Nut Croquettes or Cutlets A Vegetarian Dish Mix together 1 cupful each of chopped nut- meat and bread crumbs; season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice. Mix in 1 egg- so as to make it hold together; form into cro- quettes or cutlets; dip in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain, and serve with tomato or cream sauce, and if made into cutlets use a crab-claw, or wooden skewer, and cover with the regulation paper ruffle. Nut Souffle Take 1 pint of the milk of the cocoanut, or use cow's milk, and put on to boil; add 1 cupful of bread crumbs ; stir, and when thoroughly heated*, CHAFING-DISH RECIPES 1009 add 1 cupful of chopped nut-meat. Season with salt and pepper; add % cupful of whipped cream and the lightly beaten whites of 3 eggs. Butter a baking-dish; pour in the mixture, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Serve immediately, as, in case of all souffles, it will fall if allowed to stand. Nuts are served with salad, mixed with force- meat, used in sauces, and made into sandwiches ; and will be found under such recipes. CARVING One of the first steps in learning to carve is to know the parts of the joint or fowl upon which one intends to operate. No one can carve well without practice and experience. In these days, when it is the custom to have meat and poultry carved before coming to the table, there is less opportunity than ever for one to learn. Good carving is really an accomplishment. It is unreasonable to expect a young person who sits at the table where the head of the family does all of the carving, to become proficient in the art from mere observation. How often the excuse that " I never had to do it, father al- ways carved " is heard. And nothing is more pitiable than to see such a one suddenly called upon to officiate on some occasion. The oppor- tunity to carve ought not only to be accorded to each member of the family, but the work should be insisted upon. One must get by study of some sort an idea of the location of the bones, gristle, and joints in meat and poultry. One who prepares a fowl, or who cuts up chicken for fricassee, should be able to mentally locate every bone and joint. 10)0 CARVING JO J I A sharp knife, a platter sufficiently large, a carving napkin, and a tender joint or bird will help much toward successful execution. No- where do ease and grace become so enviable as in carving a difficult joint or a refractory fowl. There must be no spilling of crumbs or splash- ing of gravy. Aim to divide the meat equally. Ask each guest his or her preference, and gratify it. Be not lavish in helping the guests. Estimate carefully the number, and make the dish go round easily. Do not give one all of the meat, and another all of the bone. See that a young or bashful person is provided with por- tions that are easy to manage. How often we have seen such unable to eat what is served on account of the difficulty in cutting it up. Not only should the piece be carved economically, but the remnant should be left in good shape. As the slices are carved, place them upon the platter and do not allow them to hang over the edge to drip upon the cloth. Learn to carve sitting as well as standing; both positions are allowed. If the cook has not removed all of the skewers or strings before the dish was brought in, do this first. The fork is the essential in good carving, after the sharp knife. Use the fork to hold the meat firmly. Hold the fork firmly but grace- fully. If the joint or bird is tough, do not show I0J2 CARVING that you know it. Just there is where your skill will be most deeply appreciated by the hostess. If there are two sorts of meat, carve first what you think will be sufficient from both ; then, and not'till then, ask the guests their choice. While it has been suggested that one observe how others carve, it is hardly necessary to dwell upon the rudeness of staring at the carver. If the carver is having a hard time of it, the tactful hostess will distract the attention of the guests from his efforts. Rib Roast Have the backbone to the right, and place the fork firmly in the middle. Run the knife along close to the backbone, cutting down to the ribs. Then cut away the gristly cord so as to enable you to slice. Begin on the side nearest to you, and see that the slices cut parallel to the ribs are thin and of equal thickness. After slicing them down to the ribs, separate them from the bone by running the knife under. If the meat h^s all of the bone removed, and is rolled and skewered, place it on the dish on the end, and cut thin slices from the top horizontally. It may be easier to place it upon the side and carve thin slices from the end nearest to you. Rib Roast Sirloin Roast Rolled Roast CARVING J0I3 Sirloin Roast Place the backbone to the right. Several thin and uniform slices are cut parallel to the ribs, and to them. Separate them from the back- bone by cutting along it, and also at the end of the flank. Then turn the roast over and carve the tenderloin, cutting it in slices across the grain. If the roast is larger than needed, the tenderloin may be left and served. cold at an- other meal. For those who like fat, a few slices of the crisp fat from the flank-end may be served. Not everyone cares for this fat, so their preference must be consulted before serv- ing it. Beefsteak Do not serve the bone if it is cooked with the steak. Many cut out the bone before cooking, and claim that it is better and more economical to do so. Tough gristle and membrane, as well as the flank, should also be cut off before cook- ing. These can be cooked with great saving in some other ways. The tenderloin should be placed next to the carver. Each person should receive a part of the tenderloin; this is accom- plished by cutting it in narrow strips, after it has been removed by cutting close to the bone. The meat on the other side of the bone is removed in the same way, and is also cut into narrow strips. Serve each person a piece J0J4 CARVING of the tenderloin, the fat, and the upper part. The strips should be as wide as the steak is thick. Do not serve too liberally the first time. Leave enough for a second helping to thosewho may desire more. Round and rump steaks are cut in narrow strips always across the grain. This makes it easy for the guests to cut th«n with the grain with their usually less sharp knives. Corned Beef Corned beef is cut in thin slices. Lay aside the outside slice, as it is often dry and hard. If the piece of beef is narrow, the slices will ap- pear wider if they are cut obliquely. They should be quite thin, and cut across the grain. Serve each person a piece of fat and a piece of lean. Leg of Mutton Carve thin slices across the middle, cutting quite down to the bone. Cut the slices toward the thick part of the leg, making them of me- dium thickness; then separate them from the bone. Slice from the opposite side of the bone in the same way. Tongue Cut tongue in round slices crossways of the tongue. Some carvers slice the tip of the tongue lengthwise, as that part is considered more deli- Loin of Mutton Leg of Mutton Shoulder of Mutton CARVING J0J5 cate when so cut. The best slices are in the middle. Serve one of these choice parts to each guest along with the other parts. Do not carve the root of the tongue. The slices must be as thin and wafer-like as possible. Ham This may be carved in the same way as mut- toU) except that the slices are very thin. Fore-Quarter of Lamb First separate the shoulder-part from the breast and ribs. Then the ribs are separated from one another. The platter must be large enough to accommodate this division. If it is not, another platter should be so placed that the carver may place the breast portion upon it until he is ready for it. The difficult part is the separation of the shoulder- joint. The carver's work will be much simplified by having the butcher remove the shoulder-blade and the bone of the leg. Each person should receive a rib, and either a piece of the breast or of the leg. according to preference. Loin of Veat The ribs are first to be divided, beginning at the smaller end. Carve the kidney in slices, and serve a portion of it to each g^est, as far as possible. Of course, the butcher has been di- rected to divide the meat at the joints of the J0J6 CARVING backbone. This makes carving a very simple matter. But if this has not been done, the carver must cut slices parallel to the backbone. Fillet of Veal Slice from the top downward, serving stuffing to each. Breast of Veal This divides, naturally and very distinctly, into the brisket and the ribs. The line of sepa- ratisn is very marked. It is first cut along that line. The brisket, which has been placed near- est to the carver, is sliced. Then the ribs are divided, and the sweetbread is sliced. Serve a portion of the rib, the brisket, an*^ the sweet- bread to each person. Haunch of Venison The haunch is the hind-quarter. The loin is placed nearest to the carver. The first step is to separate the loin from the leg. This is quite difficult, if the bones have not been removed. The leg is carved in the same way as a leg of mutton, cutting slices from the middle, quite down to the bone. The loin is then carved by separating the ribs and slicing the flank. Saddle of Mutton This is sliced on both sides of the backbone, beginning at the tail, which is placed to the left of the carver. The fork is firmly placed in the Chicken or Turkey Goose or Duck Jellied Chicken CARVING J0J7 centre of the back, and the slices are cut very long. If the slices are too long to be served, they should be cut in two crosswise. The ten- derloin and the kidney fat under the ribs are choice parts. These are to be sliced, and a por- tion served to each person. Sucking Pig If the head has not been separated in the kitchen, which is a safe thing to do, as it is re- pulsive to a great many people, it is the first step in the carving to remove it. The legs are then separated by a circular sweep of the knife. Finally the ribs are separated. Serve a small portion of stuffing to each guest. The head is placed to the left when the platter is brought on. Turkey or Chicken The dish is to be placed so that the breast is to the left of the carver. Place the carving fork deeply at the small end of the breaetbone. This is important so as to completely control the work of the knife. The leg upon the far side is first removed by cutting around the joint, and then twisting the bone from the socket with the knife. Do not remove the fork to accom- plish this. Remove the wing on the same side in the same way. By slightly tipping the bird away from him, the carver can easily reach the leg and wing on the side nearest to him, and re- 65 J0J8 CARVING move them in the same manner. Thin slices are then cut from the sides of the breast. Then the wishbone is removed by making an incision in the breast. Then cut through the ribs from neck to tail, so as to pass in a straight line through the leg socket. Do this on both sides ; then quickly turn the knife, and so separate the front from the back of the carcass along the lines of the last cuts. Now, for the first time withdraw the fork, and divide the thigh from the drumstick. The last step is to divide the back at the joint of the second rib. Serve to each person a piece of dark and a piece of light meat, unless a preference for one sort is ex- pressed. If the turkey is large, and the family small, carve only one side of it. Serve stuffing to each guest. Duck and Goose Thege are carved alike. Place the bird with the breast to the left of the carver. Eemove the leg and the wing from the remote side. Then remove each from the near side. Cut slices from the sides of the breast. This is much more difficult to do in the case of ducks and geese, than with turkey or chicken. Four fine cuts are all that a skilful carver may hope to get. Make an incision to give free access to the stuffing. Only the breast of wild duck is ;?^^^fai/ " ■ .'^.'/.^wM mm ' -^^ ™-'" u>,-; '»,^te^iaih ii^'J^^^HI ^^PSSi-' . , ■■P^""'' ■ ■- ^gg||[||Pp|WJBi^fBL';a^ iH7\^'.- vJi ,, ■, , ■-, -^^^-■- , H'^'^W ■ ^i'^^ -- ■M:iV tmmmmfmneaxsssssKZ Pi!' ' I^B^jHf^.- ',^ « ^ . i ^','^'-' //■? Fillet Cooked and Larded Saddle of Mutton CARVING 1019 carved. The remainder of the fowl is left to be served next day as a timbale or a salmi. Broiled Chicken As this is split down the back before broil- ing, the carver simply cuts through the breast- bone to divide the chicken into halves. Then each of these halves is divided crosswise, making quarters. Boned Chicken Fix the fork firmly into the breast portion, and cut slices crosswise, beginning at the neck. Woodcock, Snip'", and Plover These require no carving, as a whole bird is served to each guest. Pheasant, Quail, and Partridge Split into halves lengthwise, and serve one part to each guest. Rabbits and Hares When cooked whole, the fork is placed in the middle of the back. Remove the hind leg and the shoulder first from the remote side; then, tilting the rat)bit, remove those from the near side. Cut the back into three pieces. Remove the fork, and separate the hind leg into two parts at the joint. The best portions of the rabbit are the saddle and the thigh parts of the J020 CARVING hind leg. If the hare is a Belgian, it is large enough to permit of the saddle being cut lengthwise into two parts. Fish A silver knife and fork are provided for serv- ing fish, as steel spoils the flavor of the flesh. If the fish is boiled or baked, first remove the head. Then cut down the backbone as nearly as possible, gently prying the flesh away from it. Cut the top half into slices across the body ; then turn the backbone off the lower half, placing it on one side of the platter. Then cut the under half in slices across the fish. By separating the flesh from the backbone by a lengthwise cut, there is less danger either of serving so many bones or of mashing the flesh. Planked or Broiled Fish In this case the fish is to be cut crosswise, quite through the joints of the backbone.' This must be performed as quickly, as possible, as delay causes much of the good flavor to be lost. Care must be taken to strike the joints as ex- actly as possible, and not to break the flesh. Pheasant Roast Pig i -^ ^^m ^^^:.4 a^^PffF ^^i^^^SB^BsB^^SBBSk Fish BEVERAGES Breakfast Coffee Put freshly ground coffee into the strainer in the proportion of 1 cupful to a quart of boiling water. Add the boiling water gradually. Pour off into a hot pitcher and back again to the strainer, repeating until of the desired strength. Then pour into hot cups. ' Caf£ au Lait Make some strong, clear coffee. Pour it into the cup with an equal quantity of boiling milk, and sweeten according to taste. This is the coffee which is served in France for breakfast, and it is both palatable and nutritious. After-Dinner or Black Coffee This is the coffee which is bandied round in small cups after dessert in France. It is sweetened, but neither milk nor cream is added. It should be made exceedingly strong, and will be found useful in warding off the somnolency which is often the first result of a good dinner. It should be made in the same way as breakfast coffee, allowiag a tablespoonful finely ground J02J J022 BEVERAGES coffee for each cup. Serve in demi-tasse or small coffee-cups. Iced Coffee Set cafe au lait aside until cool. Then pour into tumblers half -filled with ice, and sugar to taste. Arabian Coffee All travellers agree in their account of tho delicacy and delicious flavor of the coffee use 1 in the East. It is prepared thus : Pound thor- oughly in a mortar some coffee-berries that have been freshly and quickly roasted. Pass them through a fine sieve two or three times, until at last you have a brown flour. Mix 2 tea- spoonfuls of this flour and a small piece of cin- namon with 2 cupfuls of water. Boil it gently, then draw it back for a moment, anid repeat this several times, until a cream rises to the top ; then a(Jd half a, cupful more boiling water and it is ready to serve. Neither sugar nor inilk is required. Vegetarian Coffee 1 teaspoonful each of whole allspice, cinna- mon, cloves, crushed nutmeg, blade mace, quar- ter of bay leaf; steep in 1 quart of water half an hour; strain in hot pot, adding 1 lump of sugar for each guest. A pitcher of hot cream is at hand for the hostess to dress the " coffee " BEVERAGES J023 before the latter is passed. Eose-disks are dropped into the beverage. Tea (Hot) Have the kettle freshly boiling, so that the water may not taste flat. Pour the water on the dry leaves and draw off within three min- utes. Use teaspoon of tea for each person "served Pour, clear, into hot cups, adding afterwards sugar and cream as desired. Tea (Cold) A few minutes after pouring on the leaves strain off the liquid, and set away till cold. Pour later into glasses half-filled with cracked ice, adding slice of lemon and granulated sugar to taste. Tchai (Russian) Black Japan tea is brewed in a brags or cop- per samovar, poured into beautifully decorated cups, and served at the end of the meal. It must be very strong, and several cups of tes are consumed by the native Eussian. Cream is not used, but lumps of sugar are rubbed on lemon, dipped in the tea, and nibbled as a sweet. Russian Tea Brew tea iaccording to direction, and have the strength according to taste. Pour into long thin glasses; put a silver spoon first into 1024 BEVERAGES the glass to prevent it breaking; put in slices of lemon, and pour over the lump of sugar about a tablespoonful of best rum — or put in tea and sweeten. No milk or cream. June Tea Punch Brew a strong tea; place in fancy pot; fill thin glasses with shaved ice ; use a teaspoonful powdered sugar, 2 maraschino cherries, with slice of lime on top ; pour hot tea over the whole and serve each glass on a lace-paper doily, placed on dainty china plates. This is a sooth- ing outdoor refreshment for a hot afternoon. Cocoa Made in the same way as chocolate. Cocoa Shells Stir into a quart of boiling water 2 ounces of cocoa shells previously wet with cold water. Boil steadily for an hour and a half; then strain, stir in 1 quart of fresh milk, and serve almost at the scalding point. Sweeten to suit taste. Chocolate With cold water rub 6 tablespoonfuls of choc- olate to a thin, smooth paste; upon this pour gradually 2 cupfuls of hot water; put in a saucepan and brijig quickly to a boil. After cooking for five minutes add 2 cupfuls of hot W^'M iS5pp»5|p^^ft!BSW5™?, -?j^4'^>#^ June Tea Punch Vegetarian Coffee Individual Breakfast Service BEVERAGES J025 milk, and boil for another ten minutes. Sweeten to taste, and add whipped cream on top. Hot Beef Tea Break an egg, and beat it well in the bottom of a cup ; add a portion of sherry and 1 spoon- ful of beef tea. Fill with boiling water, stir briskly, and season to the taste. Milk Shake Take 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar and 1 egg ; add ice, and fill shaker with milk. Turn over, shake thoroughly, and serve with straws and nutmeg on the side. Milk and Seltzer Fill a large soda-glass with half milk and half seltzer. Koumiss In 1 gill of warmed milk dissolve V3 of a yeast cake, and add 2 teaspoonfuls of granu- lated sugar. Have a beer bottle with patent fastener already scalded — or use an ordinary bottle, soaking the cork for half an hour to make it swell. Fill this bottle three-quarters^ full with fresh milk, blood-warm; then pour in the yeast mixture. After shaking briskly for two minutes cork tightly. The common cork must be wired down. Leave the bottle in the warm kitchen until the contents commence to 1026 BEVERAGES foam and " work " six hours or so. Then place in the ice chest until used. Bottled Seidlitz Vi/ater Take a sufficient number of soda-water bottles, and fill them with clear water; then add the following ingredients, and cork and wire the bottles immediately: 2 drachms of Eochelle salts, 35 grains of bicarbonate of soda, and 11 drops of sulphuric acid. Root Beer For good, old-fashioned root beer gather to- gether sarsaparilla, dandelion, yellow dock, hops, and burdock, if possible; other ingredi- ents often added are wild cherry bark, birch bark, elecampane, and aromatic spikenard. After washing thoroughly and bruising the roots," take 2 gallons of water to 1 ounce each of the ingredients. Putting the roots in the cold water, set over the fire so that all the es- sences and flavors will be drawn out by the heating. Steep for an hour and a half and then strain; add 1 pound of sugar and 25 drops of oil of sassafras or spruce, and when cool enough, so as not to kUl the yeast, add 6 of 8 tablespoonfuls to the above quantity of water, or 1 or 2 dry yeast cakes dissolved in a little tepid water. After stirring the yeast in well, set the brew BEVERAGES J027 away in an earthen jar and allow some hours for it to work. . After three or four hours it may be put in bottles, or kept in a jar for im- mediate use. Cider For a large quantity of pider, fine, juicy ap])les must be mashed and pressed, and a small Ehine-wine cask filled with the juice. Place the cask on a skid in a cool room, and fermentation will soon commence, taking about a fortnight to the process ; all stuffs coming to the surface during this period should be re- moved with a piece of clear linen. After fer- mentation is over, fill the cask with water, bung carefully, and leave in the cellar for six months ; then decant into another cask; leave for two months longer, and fill into bottles. Small quantities of cider may be made with less trouble. Peel the apples, and grate on a grater; strain the juice through cloth, pour into stone jars, and add roasted apples to hasten fermentation. After a couple of days a skin appearing on the juice shows that fer- mentation is complete ; remove this skin, bottle the cider, and keep in a cool place. Limeade Put in a large glass the juice of 3 limes, and 1 tablespoonful of sugar. Fill half full of J028 BEVERAGES shaved ice, and then fill with water ; shake thor- oughly and ornament with fruit. Serve with straw. Orangedde Make a syrup by boiling 6 ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Pour it over the thin yellow rinds of 2 small oranges, and let them infuse for two or three hours. Strain the juice of 6 oranges into a glass jug. Add the flavored syrup, first passing it through a jelly-bag, and a pint and a half of cold water. Drink the orangeade cold. It takes from two or three hours to infuse the rinds. SufBcient for two pints and a half. Orangeade (at All Seasons) Pour a pint of brandy, or rectified spirits of wine, over the thin rind and strained Juice of 2 oranges. Cover the infusion closely, and leave in a warm place for six weeks, shaking it every day. At the end of that time filter it through muslin, and put it into small bottles. Cork these closely, and store tiiem until wanted. When orangeade is required, it is only neces- sary to dissolve a small lump of sugar in half a pint of spring water, and add a dessertspoon- ful pf the orange-flavored spirit. Sufficient for a pint of orangeade. BEVERAGES 1029 Pineapple Water (a Refreshing Summer Beverage) Take a moderate-sized pineapple; pare and slice it, and pound it to a pulp in a mortar. Put this into a bowl with the strained juice of a large fresh lemon, and pour over it a pint of boiliog syrup made in the proportion of 1 pound of sugar to a pint cTf water. Cover the jug which • contains the liquid, and leave it in a cool place for two hours or more. Strain through a napkin, put 2 pints of cold spring water with it, and serve. Sufficient for three pints of pineapple water. Ginger Beer To 11 gallons of water put 10 pounds of loaf sugar, half a pound of bruised ginger, the rinds of 4 lemons, and the whites of 4 eggs beaten into a strong froth; mix them all well to- gether whilB cold, and put the preparation into a copper. As soon as it boils skim it well, and then pour it into a oooter, and pat to it 2 ounces of cream of tartar and the inside of 6 lemons sliced and the pips taken out. When it is nearly cold, put into a doth 4 tablespoonfuls of yeast, and pour iiie Hquor in upon it. "When done working bung it up, arid let it staiid a fort- night; then bottle it o:ff, and it will be fit for drinking in about ten days. 1030 BEVERAGES Ginger Beer (Other Ways) Take a pound and a half of common brown sugar, or treacle, a gallon and a half of water, an ounce of ground ginger, and a lemon, if liked. Boil, cool, and then add yeast. 2. Dissolve 4 ounces of candied ginger in 2^ gallons of boiling water ; add 2 pounds of sugar, 1 ounce of powdered citric acid when nearly cold, and 2 tablespoonfuls of yeast. .Let stand several hours ; then bottle and seal. Saratoga Cooler Put into a large bar-glass 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, juice of half a lemon, 1 bottle of ginger ale, and 2 small lumps of ice. After stirring well remove the ice. Plain Lemonade Put into a large bar-glass the juice of half a large lemon, li/^ tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 or 3 pieces of orange, and fill half full with shaved ice, the balance with water; add a dash of raspberry syrup and fruits in season. Serve with straws. Soda Lemonade Into a large soda-glass put 11/2 tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar, juice of half a lemon, 1 bottle of plain soda water, and 2 or 3 small lumps of ice. After stirring thoroughly re- move the ice. BEVERAGES J03I Seltzer lemonade is made in the same way, only using seltzer for the soda water. Egg Lemonade Put into a large bar-glass 1 large tablespoon- ful of pulverized white sugar, juice of half a lemon, 1 fresh egg, 2 or 3 small lumps of ice, and shake well. Then strain into a soda-water glass and fill with soda water or seltzer, gar- nishing with berries. Orgeat Lemonade Put into a iarge bar-glass 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar, % wineglassful of orgeat syrup, the juice of half a lemon, and fill one- third full of ice and balance with water. After shaking thoroughly, add berries in season, and serve with straws. Fine Lemonade for Parties Eub the rinds of 8 lemons on a portion of 2 pounds of loaf sugar until all the oil is ab- sorbed, and put it with the remainder of the sugar into a" jug; add the juice of 1 dozen lemons (not the pips), and pour over this 1 gal- lon of boiling water. After the sugar is dis- solved, strain through a piece of muslin, and cool. The lemonade may be greatly improved by beating up with it the whites of 4 eggs. This recipe allows for 1 gallon. 1032 BEVERAGES Soda Nectar Strain the juice of 1 lemon and add it to % tumblerful of water, sweetening with powdered sugar to taste. Stir in 2 or 3 small lumps of ice to cool, and mix well. Then add half small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, pour into a large soda-glass, and drink while effervescing. Nectar for Dog- Days Put 1 lemon ice into a large goblet and pour upon it 1 bottle of plain soda. A very cool and refreshing beverage. Soda Cocktail Put into large soda-glass 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, 2 dashes of Angostura bitters, and 3 or 4 small lumps of ice. Then pour in 1 bottle of plain soda, stir thoroughly, and re- move the ice. Horse's Neck Into a large tumbler put the entire peel of a lemon cut in cireular style, plenty of ice, and a bottle of ginger ale. Orange Sherbet Peel half a dozen ripe, sweet oranges; cut 4 of them in pieces, and separate from the white sMn and seeds ; squeeze the other two. Stir with 14 pound of sugar over a slow fire till it boils; then cool, thin with fresh water, BEVERAGES J033 and add the pieces of orange, several drops of orange-flower essence, and lumps of ice. Blackberry Wine To make an excellent strong blackberry wine, proceed as follows: Take 45 quarts of ripe blackberries well picked and pressed, and mix them with 10 pounds, of good honey and 26 pounds of strong, bright, moist sugar. Boil with 12 gallons of soft water and the whites of 12 eggs well beaten, till the liquor is reduced to 10 gallons, skimming it till it is perfectly clear. Strain the liquor into a tub, and let it stand till the following day ; then pour it clear of the lees and boil it again fpr three-quarters of an hour, adding the lees, filtered twice, and 2 ounces of isinglass dissolved in a quart of water. Skim well, and put in 2 ounces of Ja- maica pepper, 2 ounces of cloves, and 2 ounces of best ginger, all bruised and tied loosely in a piece of muslin. Put into your cooler the thin rinds of 6 Seville oxanges and a pint of lemon juice; strain tiie liquor upon them, stir well; and when cool enough work it with a pint of fresh yeast stirred well into a gallon of the Uquor, Cover cloge, and let it wojk for four or five days, removing the top scum and stir- ring twice daily; then strain, and filter it into the cask ; put in the bung tightly, keep the cask 66 1034 BEVERAGES well filled up, and when it has ceased ferment- ing, let a day elapse, and add 2 quarts of French brandy and an ounce and a half of isin- glass dissolved in a little water and mixed, with a gallon of the wine, ten minutes, an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and slit, and 6 ounces of sugar-candy broken small. Secure the bung, paste strong white paper or coarse linen over it, and place plenty of sand over all, wetted a little. Keep the wine in a cool cellar for two years ; then bottle it — for it is certain to be fine — ^by means of the filterings, which are quite necessary to this as well as to all raspberry and elder wine. Seal the corks, and keep it in the bottles before using for two years. If al- lowed to lie for a longer time it will still im- prove, and will be found a beautiful wine. Currant Wine Bruise 8 gallons of currants with 1 quart of raspberries. Press out the juice, and to the residuum, after pressure, add 11 gallons of cold water. Add 2 pounds of beetroot sliced as thin as possible to give color, and let them infuse, with frequent mixture, for twelve hours; then press out the liquor as before, and add it to the .juice. Next dissolve 20 pounds of raw sugar in the mixed liquor, and 3 ounces of red tartar in fine powder. In some hours the fermenta- BEVERAGES J035 tion will commence, which is to be managed as in the case of blackberry wine. When the fer- mentation is completely over, add 1 gallon of brandy; let the wine stand for a week, then rack off, and let it stand for two months. It may now be finally racked off, bunged up in the cask, and set by in a cool cellar for as many years as may be required to ameliorate it. Cowslip Wine Allow 3 pounds of loaf sugar, the rind of an orange and a, lemon, and the strained juice of a lemon to every gallon of water. Boil the sugar and water together for half an hour. Skim it carefully, then pour it over the rind and juice. Let it stand until new-milk warm; add 4 quarts of cowslip pips or flowers, and to every 6 quarts of liquid put 3 large tablespoonfuls of fresh yeast, spread on toast. On the follow- ing day put the wine into a ca,sk, which must be closely stopped. It will be fit to bottle or drink from the cask in seven weeks. Twenty- four or forty-eight hours to ferment; seven weeks to remain in the cask. May Wine Throw into a punch-bowl a bottle of hock; slice into that a lemon, an orange, or add a few strawberries, a glass of sherry, and sufficient crushed white sugar to sweeten. Now put in J036 BEVERAGES 12 little sprays of leaves of the sweet woodruff, and, if in bloom, some of the blossoms. Let them steep an hour, and serve out with a ladlo. Sweet-scented flowers are often thrown in, and must float on the top ; and leaves of sweet herbe and of other fragrant plants, such as the lemon- plant and lavender, may be added. May wine may be iced. Elderberry Wine The elderberry is well suited to the produc- tion of wine. The juice contains a considerabJo quantity of the principle necessary for a vigor- ous fermentation, and its beautiful color im- parts a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and sugar must be added to it. The following is an ap- proved recipe: Take 1 gallon of ripe elder- berries and 1 quart of damsons or sloes for every 2 gallons of wine to be made. Boil the elderberries in about half the quantity of water till they burst, breaking them frequently with a stick. Strain the liquor, and return it to the copper. To produce 18 gallons of wine, 20' gal- lons of this liquor are required, and for what- ever quantity the liquor ffe,lls short of this, water must be added to make it up. Boil this, along with 56 pounds of coarse, moist sugar, for half an hour, and it is to be fermented in the usual manner when sufficiently cooled, and BEVERAGES J037 then it is to be tunned or put into the cask. Put now into, a muslin bag a pound and a half of ginger bruised, a pound of allspice, 2 ounces of cinnamon, and 4 or 6 ounces of hops; suspend the bag with the spice in the cask by a string not long enough to let it touch the bottom; let the liquor work in the cask for a fortnight, and fill up in the usual way. The wine will be fit to tap in two months, and is not improved by keeping, like many other wines. Elderberries alone may be used. Cura^oa Take a quarter of a pound of the thin rind of Seville oranges, and pour over it a pint of boil- ing water; when cool, add 2 quarts of brandy or rectified spirits of wine, and let it remain for ten or twelve days, stirring it every day. Make a clarified syrup of 2 pounds of finely sifted sugar and 1 pint of water ; add this to the brandy, etc. Line a funnel with a piece of mus- lin, and that with chemists ' filtering paper ; let the liquid pass through two or three times till it is quite bright. This will require a little patience. Put it into small bottles, and cork it closely. Time, twelve days. Sufficient for a little more than three quarts of curagoa. Curagoa imparts an agreeable flavor to cream and to punch, and is an excellent liquor. J038 BEVERAGES Ginger Cordiaf Pick 2 pounds of white or black currants. Bruise them slightly, and mix with them 1% ounces of ground giager. Pour over them 1 (|uart of good whiskey or brandy, and let them stand for two days. Strain off the liquid; add 1 pound of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup with a small teacupful of water. Bottle, and cork closely for use. Sufficient for three pints of cordial. Cherry Brandy (to be Made in July or August) The morello cherry is generally used for this purpose, on account of its peculiar acidity. It ripens later than other cherries, and is more expensive. It is seldom used as a dessert fruit ; nevertheless, if allowed to hang until fully ripe, it is very refreshing and agreeable to m^ny palates. The cherries for brandy should be gathered in dry weather, and must be used when fresh. They ought not to be over-ripe. Wipe each one with a soft cloth, and cut the stalks, leaving them about half an inch in length. A little more than half fill wide-necked bottles such as are used for bottliug fruit. Allow 3 ounces of pounded sugar with each pound of fruit, which must be placed in with it. Fill the bottles with the best French brandy. Do not make the mistake of supposing that the BEVERAGES 1039 fruit and sugar will make bad spirit pass for good. Cork the bottles securely, and seal over the top. The cherries may be used-in a month, ))ut will be better in two. Three or four cloves put in the bottle are by many considered an im- provement. Apricot Brandy To every pound of fruit, take 1 pound of loaf sugar and a wineglassful of water. Put the apricots, which must be sound, but not quite ripe, into a preserving-pan with sufficient water to cover them ; allow them to boil ; then simmer gently till tender. JBemove the skins. Clarify and boil the sugar, and pour it over the fruit. Let it remain twenty-four hours. Then put the apricots into glasses, and fill ihem up with syrup and brandy, half and half, and keep them well corked and the tops of the corks securely sealed. They must be kept twelve months before using. They should be prepared in July. Time to simmer the apricots, about one hour. Cherry Wine Take ripe, sweet cherries; stem them, wash, and mash with wooden mallet. Press out the juice, and to each quart add % pound of granu- lated sugar and 1 cupful of water. After stir- ring well pour into a crock, cover closely with cheesecloth, and leave for one month to fer- J040 BEVERAGES ment. When this has ceased, rack off and i^ut in bottles. Dandelion Wine Get 4 quarts of the yellow petals of the dan- delion, and pour over them into a tub 1 gallon of warm water that has previously been boiled. Stir it well round and cover, with a blanket; to stand three days, during which time it should be stirred frequently. Strain off the flowers from the liquid, and boil it for half an hour with the rind of a lemon, the rind of an orange, a little ginger, and 3% pounds of lump sugar to each gallon; add the sugar and lemon, from which the rinds were removed, in slices to the boiling liquor, and when cool ferment with yeast on a toast. When it has stood a day or two put it into a cask, and in two months bottle. This wine is said to be specially adapted to ail persons suffering from liver complaints. Grape Wine (Home-made) Mash the grapes, stems and all, in an open cask, and cover it with cheesecloth, as the least particle falling into the contents may change it materially. After fermentation put through a fruit-press, turn the juice extracted into a clean, close cask, BiUd leave on its side for one month, being care- ful not to disturb it and keeping it in a cool, m:verages mi dark place. During fermentation, however, it' should be stirred daily. , It will now be ready to bottle, and the bottles should be laid away on their sides. Another Recipe Stem a small quantity of grapes and mash with a potato-beetle in a clean tub or crock. , Strain through a bag to get as much juice as possible. To each quart of this add half a pound of white sugar, and put away to ferment in a big jar or clean cask, covering the bung- hole at the top with netting. After fermenting for three or four weeks it should be still and clear. Then bottle, pouring off the lees with care. Grape Juice Put 6 quarts of grapes (stemmed) in 1 quart of water; bring slowly to a boil, and strain. Theh return the juice to the fire, bring to a boil again, and, while scalding hot, bottle and seal. Rhubarb Wine In a double boiler boil the rhubarb, adding no water after washing it and cutting it into small pieces. Press out and measure all the juice; add an equal quantity of water, sweeten to the taste, and add brandy in the proportion of 1 cupful to every gallon of the liquid. Bottle and seal. J042 MENU TERMS IN FOREIGN LANGUAGES QQ Iz; P3 O H s 1 o 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■4^ 1 GQ S 1 < a 1 Eel 1 "3 o 3 ^ 1 -2 GO 1 3 1 1 S q 1 -4^ 1 1 i a s Pm a 1 P3 T3 i 1 IS 1 1 M « g ■2 > 3 1 13 O 'i 1 1 a a £ •4-9 1 1 5 1 1 1 -4^ 1 J2 i ■e 5 QQ v M S i f 1 i 1 1 •4J 1 3 1 i ^ -i s •a a -J2 "3 Em 1 ^ ^ OS MEATS, ETC., IN VARIOUS LANGUAGES! 1043 a & o as 9 ? fii fc 1 ^e, a'i^ll'sllilll^llllJI ^igM'^»aS.a'a-Bi|ooJ'^"^f^ s d u =^ U H ^ OOMg EH5.ii ^ 5 - gi| too go 1044 MEATS, ETC., IN VARIOUS LANGUAGES a s: I c5 of B M P o i5 & o u h a> 5 f^ 5o ^ ■ © J O -** ft 9 O O OS 9-e a fl s-S B d " S"l3 « O O PL( Z o p! ^J P a) s 6pp S 'S;IS= P^ ' ho ■S a to pa ® 3 s 3 O 9 4 g8 III i I § §^ S 1 «m t^^ ^ i-i slill i §6 O an o -I TEEMS USED IN COOKING Abattis—Gihlets. Agneau — Lamb. A la, au, aux — With; as Huitres aux cham- pignons, — Oysters with mushrooms ; or, Smelts a la Tartare, — with tartare sauce. A I'Aurore — A white sauce, colored pink with spawn of lobster. A la bonne Femme — Of the good housewife. A I'E sir agon — With tarragon. A la Neige — In the style of snow. A la Poulette — Meat or fish warmed in white sauce with yolks of eggs. A la Reine — of the queen, Allemande — A thick white sauce made with cream and the yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon juice. Almond— A nut grown in southern Europe. It consists of a stone fruit, the fleshy pericarp of which dries in ripening, and forms a tough covering to the stone. Bitter almonds are ob- tained from Morocco. They contain prussic acid, and are poisonous. The sweet almonds include the Jordan and Valencia varieties. The Jordan almonds, imported from Malaga, are long and narrow, and are considered the best. J046 TERMS USED IN COOKING J047 Angelica — A plant, the stems of which are preserved in syrup, and used for decorating pastry, etc. Anguilles — Eels. Apricot — A stone fruit cultivated in temper- ate and tropical climates. The skin has a highly perfumed flavor. Asperges — Asparagus. Aspic Jelly — A transparent meat jelly made with stock, and used for garnishing, Assiette — Plate. Atelet — A small silver skewer. Au Beurre noir — With black butter. Au Beurre roux — ^With browned butter. Au Bleu — A French term applied to fish boiled in white wine with flavorings. Ah Gratin — Dishes covered with crumbs and grated cheese and browned over. Au Gras — Dressed with meat gravy. Au naturel — Plain, simple (potatoes cooked in their jackets are " au naturel "). Au Jus — In the natural juice, or gravy. Au vert Pie — ^With sweet herbs. Aux Cressons — ^With watercresses. Auo) Rognons — ^With kidneys. Avena — Oats. Bab a — ^A very light plum cake, or sweet French yeast cake. Bain-marie — An open vessel whicli has ^ J048 TERMS USED IN COOKING loose bottom for the reception of hot water. It is used to keep sauces nearly at the boiling- point without reduction or burning. Bannock — Primitive cake without yeast; cooked on a griddle ; in Scotland made of peas, barley, and oatmeal ; in America of corn meal. Barde — A thin slice of bacon fat, placed over any substance specially requiring the assistance of fat without larding. Barbecue-^To roast any animal whole, usually in the open air. Barm — The scum from fermented malt liquors, used as yeast. Baron of Beef — The two sirloins not cut down the back. Formerly a favorite dish in England. Baron of Lamb — The entire loin, not divided at the backbone, with the upper part of both legs. Batterie de Cuisine — Complete set of cooking apparatus. Bavaroise a I'eau — Tea sweetened with syrup of capillaire, and flavored with a little orange- flower water. Bavaroise au Loii— Made in the same way as the above, but with equal quantities of milk and tea. Bechamel — A rich white French sauce. Beignet or Fritter (see Fritter). TERMS USED IN COOKING J 049 Bearnaise — A rich egg sauce flavored with tarragon, named from Beam, birthplace of Henry IV. of France. Becasses — ^Woodcock. Bisque — A soup made of shellfish. Blanch — To parboil, to scald vegetables, nuts, etc., in order to remove the skin. Blanquette — Any white meat warmed in a white sauce thickened with eggs. Blonde de Veau — Double veal broth used to enrich soups and sauces. Bouchees — Very small patties. Boeuf — Beef. Bouillabaisse — Several kinds of fish boiled quickly and highly seasoned with onion, orange peel, saffron, oil, etc. Bouquet — ^A spray of each of the herbs used in seasoning, rolled up in a spray of parsley, and tied securely. Bouille — Broth made from beef. Bouilli — Beef stewed generally in one large piece, and served with a sauce. Bourguignote — ^A ragout of truffles. Bouillon — ^A clear beef soup. Braise^— Keai cooked in a closely covered stewpan to prevent evaporation, so that the meat retains not only its own juices, but those of any other articles, such as bacon, herbs, rootSj and spices put with it. 61 J050 TERMS USED IN COOKING Braisiere — A saucepan with ledges to the lid so that it will contain firing. Bridle — To truss fowls with a needle and threa;d. Brawn — Head cheese. Bretonne — A puree of red onions. Brioche — A sponge cake similar to Bath buns. Brioche Paste — Cakes made with yeast. Broche — A spit. Brochette — A skewer. Brunoise — A brown soup or sauce. Buisson — A cluster or bu^h of small pastry piled on a dish. Bubble and SqVfSak — A dish of vegetables, hash, and meat. Buttock — A round of beef. Cafe au Lait — Coffee with milk. Cafe noir — Black coffee. Caille — Quail. Callipash — The glutinous portion of the turtle found in the upper shell. Callipee — The glutinous meat of the turtle's under shell. Canard — Duck. Cannelons—Pu& paste baked round a form of cardboard shaped like a cane. Cannelons of Meat — ^Highly seasoned and minced meat baked in the form of a roll. Capers— The unopened buds of a shrub TERMS USED IN COOKING J05J grown in southern Europe. Pickled and used in sauces. Capon — ^A chicken castrated for the purpose of improving the quality of the flesh, Capilotade — A hash of poultry. Caramel — A syrup of burnt sugar named after Count Caramel, discoverer of the seventh degree of cooking sugar used for flavoring cus- tards, etc., and coloring soups. Cardoon — A vegetable resembling the arti- choke. Casserole- — A covered stone dish in -v^hich is cooked and served (sometimes applied to a form of pastry) rice or macaroni filled with a fricassee of meat or puree of game. Civet — A dark, thickish stew of hare or ven- ison. ' Champignons — Mushrooms. Charlotte — A preparation of cream or fruit formed in a mould, lined with cake or fruit. Chartreuse — Game, fillets, ,etc., moulded in jelly and surrounded by vegetables. Invented by the monks at the monastery of Chartreuse. Chervil — The leaf of a European plant used for salad. Chilis — Red peppers. Chine — A piece of the backbone of an animal cut with the adjoining parts cut for cooking. Usually applied to pork. J052 TERMS USED IN COOKING Chives — An herb allied to the onion family. Chou-fleur — Cauliflower, Chutney — A hot acid sauce made from apples, tomatoes, raisins, cayenne, ginger, gar- lic, shallots, salt, sugar, lemons, and vinegar. Citron — The rind of a fruit of the lemon species, preserved in sugar. Cock-a-leekie — ^A soup used in Wales made from fowls and leeks. Collar — To cure meat in spiced briae. Collops — Meat cut in small pieces. Compiegne — Sweet French yeast-cake with fruit. Confitures — Sweetmeats of sugars, fruits, syrups, and essences. Consomme — Clear soup. Compote — Fruit stewed in syrup. Cream Sugar and Butter — Is to rub sugar into the butter until they are well incorporated ; then beat light ajad smooth. . Coulis — A rich smooth gravy used for color- ing, flavoring, and thickening certain soups. Coriander — A plant cultivated for its tender leaves. Used in soups and salads and in mak- ing curry powder. Cornichons — Pickles, Cotelettes — Cutlets. Creme Brulee — Brown sugar or caramel with cream. TERMS USED IN COOKING J053 Creole, d la— >-With. tomatoes, onions and Crivettes — Shrimp. [peppers. Crimp — To cause to contract, or render more crisp. Croquettes — Minced meat, fish, or fowl mixed with sauce, rolled in shape, and covered with egg and bread crumbs and fried crisp. Croustade — A kind of patty of bread crust or prepared rice. Crouton — A sippet of fried or toasted bread. Crumpet — Eaised muffins baked on a griddle. Cuisine masquee — Highly seasoned or un- usually ^ixed dishes. Cuisson — Method of cooking meats in the liquor in which they have been boiled. Cuen de boeuf — Ox tails. Currants — Dried currants are the small black grapes grown at Corinth. Curries — Stews of meat or fish, seasoned with curry powder. Curry Powder — A compound of coriander seed, tumeric, ginger, pepper, cummin seed, car- damoms, caraway seed, and cayenne. De, d'—Oi, as filet de boeuf, fillet of beef. Dariole — A sweet pate baked in a mould. Daube — Meat or fowl stewed in sauce. Daubiere — ^An oval stewpan. Dejeuner — Breakfast. Desosser — To bone. J054 TERMS USED IN COOKING Demi-tasse — A small cup (applied to after- dinner coffee). Dorure — Yolks of eggs, well-beaten, for cov- ering meat and other dishes. Devilled — Seasoned hotly. Dinde — Turkey. Eclaire — Pastry or cake filled with cream. En Coquille — Served on shells. En Papillote — Served on papers. Endive — A plant of composite family used as salad. Entrees — Small made dishes served between courses at elaborate dinners. Entremet — Second course side-dishes, in- cluding vegetables, eggs, sweets. Epigrams — Small fillets of poultry, game, and lamb prepared as an entree. Escalopes — CoUops. Espagnole — A rich brown Spanish sauce. Epvnards — Spinach. Eperlans — Smelts. Faisan — Pheasant. Fagot — ^A small bunch of parsley and thyme tied up with a bay leaf. Farce — Force-meat. Fausse Tortue — Mock turtle. Feuilletage — ^Puff paste. Financiere — An expensive, highly flavored, mixed ragout. TERMS USED IN COOKING J055 Flamber — To singe fowl or game after pick- ing. Flan — A French cnstard. Flancs — The side-dishes of large dinners. Fanchonettes and Florentines — Small pas- tries covered with a meringue. Fillets — Long, thin pieces of meat or fish generally rolled and tied. Finnan Haddock — Haddock smoked and dried. Named from Findon, in Scotland, where they are obtained in perfection. Flans, Darioles, and Mirofons — French cheese cakes. Foie — Liver. Foncer — To put in the bottom of a saucepan thin pieces of veal or bacon. Fondue — A light and pleasant preparation of cheese. Fowl a la Marengo— K fowl browned in oil and stewed in rich stock, seasoned with wine. Frais e — Strawberry. Fricandeaux — Boned pieces of veal chiefly cut from the thick part of the fillet, and of not more than two or three pounds each, larded and browned and stewed in stock. Fromage — Cheese. Fricassee — Chicken or veal stewed with white sauce, and mushrooms, etc., used as accesso- ries. t056 TERMS USED IN COOKING Fritter — Anything encased in a covering of batter and fried. Gateau — Cake. Gaufres — ^Waffles. Gelee — Jelly. Geiievese Sauce — A white sauce made of white stock, highly seasoned, and served with boiled fish. Glaze — Stock boiled down to the thickness of jelly, and used to improve the appearance of braised dishes. Glace — Covered with icing. Godiveaux — Various varieties of force-meat. Gras — ^With, or of, meat; the reverse of maigre. Gnocchi — A light, savory dough, boiled; served with Parmesan. Goulasch — A Hungarian beef stew, highly seasoned. Gratins — Served in a rich sauce with browned' crumbs. Grilled — Broiled over open coals. Gratiner — To cook like a grill. Galantine — Meat boned, stuffed, made into a roll, boiled, and usually served cold in slices. Groseilles — Currants. Gumbo — A dish into which okra is intro- duced and served in it, or prepared sepa- rately. TERMS USED IN COOKING 1057 Gruyere — ^A brand of fancy cheese. Haggis — Heart. Haricot — Small bean, or a stew in which meats and vegetables are cut small. Hodge-Podge — A Scotch meat stew. Hors-d'oeuvres — Eelishes, sardines, ancho- vies. Homard — Lobster. Huitres — Oysters. Jardinere — Prepared and served with vege- tables. Julienne — A clear soup with shredded vege- tables. Jambon — Ham. Koumiss — Milk fermented with yeast. Kahoh — An India meat dish prepared with curry. Kirsch-Kuchen — German cherry cake. Kippered — ^Dried or smoked. Kohl Cannon— Minced cabbage and potatoes seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt. KromesUes— Meat or fish minced and dipped in batter and fried crisp. Lardon — A piece of bacon in salt pork used for larding purposes. Lit — Thin slices or layers. Laitue — Lettuce. Lentils— A variety of the bean family used in soups. J058 TERMS USED IN COOKING Liason — Tlie mixture of eggs and cream used to thicken soup, etc. Macedoine—A mixture of vegetables or fruits moulded in jelly. Madeline — A kind of plum cake, Maigre — Dishes for fast days, made without meat. Marinade — The liquor in which fish or meat is steeped before cooking. Mask — To cover meat with a rich sauce. Mango — A kidney - shaped semi - tropical fruit used green for pickling and ripe for dessert. Manna Kroup — Flour made from rice and wheat mixed frequently with the yolk of egg and saffron. Matelote — ^A rich fish stew flavored with wine. Mayonnaise — Cold sauce or salad dressing composed of yolk of eggs, oil, vinegar, and sea- soning. Marrons-^Chestmits. Menu— A bill of fate. Majarines — Ornamental entrees of force- meat and fillets of poultry, game, or fish. Meringue — The white of eggs beaten together with powdered sugar to a froth. Mignonnette Pepper — Coarsely ground pep- percorns. TERMS USED IN COOKING 1059 Mirepoix — A rich brown gravy used in brais- ing meats. Miroton — Meat cut in somewhat larger pieces than for collops. Morel — A species of mushroom. Mouiller — To add broth, water, or other liquid while the cooking is proceediug. Morue — Codfish. , Mouton — Mutton. Mousse — Ice cream made with whipped cream. Nectarine — ^Variety of small peach having a smooth sMn. Nougat — Candy made from sugar and almonds. Nouilles — Strips of paste made from eggs and flour, dried and used for soup — or sepa- rately. Noyau — A cordial. CEm/5— Eggs. Oignons — Onions. Okra — Seed pods from a plant grown in the South, and used for soup and pickles. Panais — Parsnips. P(wa<^a— Soaked bread, prepared to be used with force-meat. Paner — To cover fried or baked foods with bread crumbs. Panure — Any entree that is bread-crumbed. 1060 TERMS USED IN COOKING Papillate — The pieces of paper greased with oil and butter, and fastened round a cutlet by twisting the edges. Pate — A small pastry, usually a pie. Pate de fois gras — A composition of goose liver, truffles, etc. > Paupiettes — Slices of meat rolled. Piece de Resistance — The principal joint of the dinner (the roast). Pilau — A dish of meat and rice (East Indian or Turkish). Pimento — Jamaica pepper. Perdreux- — Partridge. Persillade — ^With parsley. Petit pains — Little bread. Petit pois — Little peas. Pigeonnaux — Squab. Piquer — To lard with strips of bacon fat. Poelee — Stock for boiling turkeys, fowls, vegetables, instead of water, so as to render it less insipid. Potage — Soup. Printaniers — Early spring vegetables. Puree — A thick soup rubbed through a sieve. Profiterolles — ^Light pastry with cream in- side. Pimolas — Olives stuffed with Pimentos. Piquante — rA highly seasoned sauce. TERMS USED IN COOKING i06l Pistachio — A greenish nut resembling the almond, ased for flavoring and coloring. Polenia — A mush made from Indian meal or of ground chestnuts. Potafie — ^A family soup. Potpmirri — A highly seasoned stew of meat, spices, and vegetables, etc. Quenelle — A delicate force-meat used in entreeri. ' Ragout — Stewed meat in rich gravy. Reh'ves — The remove dishes. Remoulade — Salad dressing. Ramekins — Preparation of cheese-puff paste or toast. Ratafias — Almond cakes; a liquor flavored with nuts. Ravigote — Highly flavored green herb sauce. Rifacimento — Meat dressed a second time. Rechauffe — Anything warmed over. Ris de veau — Sweetbreads. Rissoles— Small shapes of puff paste filled with a mixture, and fried or baked. Or balls of minced meat, ^gged or crumbed, and fried till crisp. Risotto— An Italian dish of rice and cheese. Roquefort— K brand of fancy cheese. Roti — ^A roast. Roulad^-Kesii stuffed, skewered into a roll, and cooked. J062 TERMS USED IN COOKING Roiix — Butter and flour stirred together to a cream and cooked. A white roux is made with ' uncooked flour ; a brown roux with flour that is browned. Salmi — Game cut up and warmed over in gravy with olives, mushrooms, etc. Saute — To fry lightly in a little hot fat or butter. Salpicon — A mince of poultry, ham, and other meats used for entrees, or it may be a mixture of fruits in a flavored syrup. Savoy Cakes — Lady fingers. Sauce Piquante — An acid sauce. Scones — Scotch cakes of meal or flour. Shallot — A variety of onion. Soubise SoMce — ^A puree of white onion named after Prince Soubise. Souffle — A very light pudding or omelet — the name means puffed-up. Soy — A Japanese sauce prepared from the seeds of Dolichos. Soja, used to color soups and sauces. Serviette, a la — Served in a napkin. Sippets — Small pieces of bread soaked in stock, fried in fat or toasted and served with meats as garnishing or border. Stock — The essence extracted from meat. Sultanas — White or yellow seedless grapes, grown in Corinth. TEMVIS USED IN COOKING J063 Supreme — ^White cream gravy made of cMcken. Tamis or Tammy — A strainer of fine woolen canvas, used for soups and sauces. Tarragon — ^An herb from which vinegar is made — Cleaves used also for seasoning. Tendrons de Veau — The gristle from the breast of veal stewed in stock, and served as an entree. Tartare — A sauce, served with fish. Timhak -A sort of pie made in a mould and turned out while hot. Tarte — A tart baked in a shallow tin. Trifle — Dish made from sponge cake, maca- roons, jam, etc., brandy, wine, etc. Trousser — To truss a bird. Truffles — ^A species of fungus growing below the soil — found in France^used to give a deli- cate flavor, also for garnishing. Truite — Trout. Turbans — Ornaniental drum-shaped cases for entrees. Tutti-Frutti — ^A mixture of fruit usually served in an ice. Vanilla — The bean of a Mexican plant, from which the vanilla extract is made. Sometimes the bean is pared in to use for flavoring. Veau — Veal, Velonte — A smooth white sauce. 1064 * TERMS USED IN COOKING Vin — ^Wine. Vinaigrette Sauce — ^With vinegar sauce, Vol-au-Vent — A crust of very light puff paste to be filled with oysters, chicken, etc., prepared in a cream sauce. Vanner — To make a sauce smooth by lifting it high in large spoonfuls and letting it fall quickly. Zwieback — Bread, toasted twice. Zest of Lemon — The grated or shaved rind of lemon. QUESTIONS. LESSON I FOOD Page. 1. Why is it necessary to tiave a knowledge of food- stuffs as well as how to cook them? 2-3 2. Why is the proper nourishment of the body of highest importance? 2 3. On what things do the ability to understand food depend? 2 FOOD AND ITS VALUE 4. What two functions does food perform in the body? 5. What ofHce does the combustion pf food serve in our bodies? 5 SIMPLE. AND COMPOUND FOODS 6. Name the two sources of food 6 7. What Ave classes of products do we derive from plants ? 6 8. Name three compound foods of mineral origin. ... 6 9. Name the four varieties Of simple foods 7 10. How can the proper proportions of food be sup- plied? 8 THE SIMPLE FOODS 11. Give some examples of foods that contain aJbumen 9-10 12. What quality do aUiuminous foods possess? .... 10 13. What is coagulation? 10 1 4 . Name some forms of fats II In. What are the prmcipal sources of starch? 11 IG. What are the principal sources of sugars? 1 1 17. Explain the uses in the boft of: First, Salts; second, Iron; third, Limet rourth. Phosphates. . 12 18. Why is it necessary to salt our food? 12-13 1Q45 1066 THE COOKING SCHOOL LESSON II COMPOUND FOODS Page. 19. What are the chief constituents of meat? 14 20. What action has an acid on tough or rare meat . . 15 21. Which kind of meat is least nutritious, and why? 16 22. Why is white meat easily digested? 17 23. State comparative digestibility of fats 18 24. Why is the nutritive value of bouillon very slight? 20 25. Of what value is bouillon to the invalid? 20-21 LESSON III MEAT 26. Name four varieties of meat in order of their nutri- tive value 22 27. Why are the less tender parts more nutritious? . . 23 28. What three ways should tough meat be cooked, arid why? . : 24-25 29. What three points should be remembered in boil- ing meat? 25 30. What characteristics has good healthy beef? .... 26 31. What are the best cuts for boiling? 27 32. Name the cuts the fore-quarter of mutton is-di- divided into, and the best manner of cooking \ each 29 33. Give the best methods of determining the tender- ness and general condition of poultry 34 34. Describe the position of the three stitches neces- sary in trussing 36 LESSON IV FISH 35. To what class of food do fish belong? 42 36. Name the oily fish and state nutritive value 43 37. Give test for selecting good fish 44 38. Name American flsh and their seasons 55-58 39. Why are molluscs dangerous to health? ' 59 LESSON V MILK 40. Give chief constituents of milk. Name two proper- lies of milk that ni^^ sterilization necessary . . .67-69 41. Give its value as fTRood to the adult and to the young 70 42. What causes rancid butter? 71 QUESTIONS 1067 Page. 43. Name four classes of cheese, with examples of each 72-73 44. Give best method of oaring for cheese 82 45. State digestibility of cheese and its comparative food value 73-83-84 . LESSON VI EGGS 46. Compare food value of eggs with meat 89 47. What minerals are present in yolk of eggs? .... 89 48. What method of cooking renders eggS' more di- gestible? 91 49. Why are fried eggs indigestible? 91 LESSON VII FOODS OF VEGETABLE ORIGIN 50. In what two ways do vegetable foods differ greatly from animal foods ? .' 95 51. Name the five classes of vegetable foods 95 52. What are the five cereals and what is their nu- tritive value ? 96 53. Of what constituents is flour composed? 96-97 54. What chemical changes take place in the rising of bread? 97,231 55. Give reasons for low nutritive value of tubercles and roots 98 56. What food constituent do herbs and green vege- tables possess that other vegetables lack? .... 99 57. Wliy are fruits beneficial to the diet? 100 58. Name class of vegetable food most rich in nourish- ment 100 59. What offloe' do condiments perform? 100 60. Name classes of condiments and give example Of each 101 LESSON VIII FOOD ESTIMATES 61. Give two aims of the process of cooking 104 62. Name three normal diets and explain principles of each . 107-108-109 63. Why is a mixed diet more desirable? 109 64. What two conditions influence the daily diet? ... Ill 65. Why should the diet, vary for different persons? 112-113 J068 THE COOKING SCHOOL LESSON IX THE ART OP COOKERY Page. 66. What knowledge besides the actual cooking of food is necessary for successful cookery? . .114-115 67. What is the aim of perfect menu-making? 117 68. Name two considerations that should influence the selection of food .• 117 69. Give points to be observed in selecLing meats from market 126-127 LESSON XI • SOUP STOCK 70. Explain the general principles of soup-making 137-138 71. What is the difference between brown and white soup stock ? 141 , LESSON XTX GRAVIES AND SAUCES 72. What is the cause of lumpy gravy? 146-147 LESSON xin BOILING 73. Why is stale boiled water unfit for use? 151 74. Explain the effect of boiling water on starchy foods 152 75. Why should meat lor boiling be placed in boiling water instead of cold water? 153-154 LESSON XIV STEWING 76. What is the first principle to be observed in making a stew? 158-159 77. Give the difference between a stew and a fricassee 162 LESSON XV FRYING ,78. Give test for frying 168 79. What care should be given fat after frying is com- pleted? 167 80. Define casserole, braising and broiUng ..174-177-180 81. Give principles of baking and process of observ- ing them ' 185-186-187 QUESTIONS J069 LESSON XX ROASTING Page. 82. Why must meat be exposed to great heat in roasl- ing instead of slow heat? ,. 189 83. Give rule governing time of roasting 190 LESSON XXII MIXING BATTERS AND FRITTERS 84. Why should batters be beaten instead of stirred 195-196-197 85. On what does the lightness of pop-overs depend . .200 LESSON XXIV BEVERAGES 86. What precautions should be observed in making tea and coffee, and why? 206-7-8 LESSON XXV VEGETABLES 87. What point must be observed in cooking all vege- tables in water? 209 88. Why must vegetables not be allowed to stand ex- posed to air? 210 LESSON XXVI CEREALS 89. Why must cereals cook slowly and long? . . . .224-225 LESSON XXVII BREAD 90. Why should hot water never be used on yeast? 231-232 91. What causes sour bread? 232-233 LESSON XXVIII SALADS 92. Name four points in making salads 288 LESSON XXIX PASTRY 93. Why should earthenware plates be usefl in baking fruit pies? 252 J070 THE COOKING SCHOOL Page. 94. What good and bad effects has baking powder in pastry? 249-250 LESSON XXX CAKE BAKING 95. What is the difference between sponge and layer cake? . 2G3-269 96. Why is the use of a thermometer so essential for cake baking 265 LESSON XXXII NUTS 97. What nuts contain all tissue elements? 276 LESSON XXXIV COOKING FOR INVALIDS 9?. Why must beef juice be kept at low temperature while cooking? •. 289-290 SOUPS 1. What is soup stock? 301 2. Why should soup meat cook very slowly? 303 3. Of what is the scum that rises on soup composed? 304 4. Is a clarified stock as nutritious as an unclarified one ? 305-306 5. Why should vegetables not be added to stock if it is to be kept any length of time? 302-810 6. Give the essential difference between beef tea and beef soup 310-311 7. 'What would happen if beef tea should be heated to more than steaming point? 312 8. Why should fat be left on soup when it is to be kept for some time? 305-306 9. What three precautions must be taken to prevent cream soups from curdling? 334 10. Why must the milk be added to tomato cream soup after the tomatoes have been thickened? 337 11. What is the difference between cream soups and clear soups ? 309-334 12. What is the effect of continued boiling on Oyster Soup ? 346 13. Define Bisques 352 14. Which contains more nourishment, a bisque or a broth? ,. .328-352 15. Why is soda used in making Cheese Bisque and Mock Bisque? 357, 358, 359 QUESTIONS J071 Page. 16. How do purees differ from other classes of soups? 359-360 n. Why must flour be added to Split-Pea Soup? 381-382 18. How can we prevent the beans from settling to the bottom in making bean soup? 383 19. What are frijoles? 385 20. How do chowders differ from soups? 389 21. Why are the potatoes soaked in cold water in the Fish Chowder recipe? 390 22. Why should milk be avoided in making Clam Chowder? 391 23. What would result if the flour and butter were added to the hot milk before being mixed with cold milk in making Corn Chowder? 399 24. What rule of soup-making does the recipe for Pot au Feu violate? 401,402 25. What season is most suitable for serving fruit soups? 403 FISH 26. What fish is best adapted for boiling? 408 27. Why is boiling an unsatisfactory way of cooking most fish? ...V 408 28. Describe an improvised flsh kettle ; 408-4 09 29. Why is lemon used in the water in which flsh is boiled? 409 30. Give time estimate for boiling flsh 409 3 1 . What would be the efl'ect of long baking on Fish a la Creme? 410 32. Name several recipes in which remnants of cold flsh may be used 409-411-412-413 33. What effect has long continued soaking on codfish? 419 34. Why is fresh codfish served in netting when boiled? .• 422 35. Why is the first water discarded in making cod- fish balls? 422 36. Why is it necessary to cook codfish in Cream Sauce over hot water? 424 37. What effect has the cold water on the macaroni in the recipe for cod-fish and macaroni? 425 38. In making Codfish Souffle, why is it important to add the whites of eggs last? 427 39. At what time in the broiling of Mackerel is it best to remove the bones? 430 40. Give the difference between boiling and broiling flsh 429-430 41. What process for cooking mackerel will keep it for six months? 431 J072 THE COOKING SCHOOL Page. 42. Name six methods of cooking flsh 430-433-434 43. Which method is the most hygienic? 429-439 44. How can fish be prevented from sticking to the pan in which it is baked 438 45! How long should scalloped flsh be baked? . . . .411-441 46. Give time table for baking salmon trout 442 47. What is the point of difference ' between Fish Souffle and a Scalloped Fish? 411-446-447 48. What are the keeping qualities of Pickled Salmon? 44 5 49. What kind of sauce is preferable to be used with most fish? 450 50. What is the time allowed for boiling bass and other tender-fleshed flsh? 453 51. What is the meaning of marinading? 458, 465 52. What precaution should be taken in moulding Crayfish in Jelly? ; 459 53. What are anchovies and where are they found? . . 460 54. What is the best frying material fcr flsh? 462 55. How must Sturgeon be prepared ^or baking, boil- ing or panning? 466 56. What parts of terrapin must be discarded? 467 57. Why must Lobster a la Newburg be kept from boiling? 46P 58. What is the effect of long cooking on lobster? .... 469 59. How can you tell when oysters are done? 474 60. How long should scalloped oysters bake? 479 61. Give difference between "plain" and "fancy" roast of oysters 479 62. Give examples of a recipe in which oysters can be combined with vegetables 480 63. Give an account of snails 481 64. What are the best kinds of snails? 481 SAUCES FOR FISH 65. Of what importance are sauces to cookery? 483 66. Give the difference between brown and white sauces 483 67. What effect would direct contact with heat have on Tartare Sauce? 485 68. In what proportion should beef extract be used when substituted for brown stock? 487 69. Name the most expensive sauce? 485 SAUCES FOR MEATS 70. Name the most inexpensive hot meat sauce 491 71. Why Is butter added gradually in making Drawn Butter Sauce? 491 72. How can ihe consistency of Tomato Sauce be al- tered? 499 QUESTIONS J073 MEATS. Page. 73. What is the proper thickness for steak? 505 74. How may toughness of steak be remedied, and why is this so? .505, 530 75. Name the choicest cuts of steaks 505 76. Give time for cooking steaks 506 77. What two methods of cooking steak are similar in results ? 506 78. Of what advantage is a roasting rack? 511 79. Why is it necessary to cook the outside of a roast quickly? 510 80. Give time-'table for roasting 511 81 What effect has slow cooking on stew? 516 82. State precaution to be used in cooking dumpling for stew 517 83. Name some recipes for using lefL-over meat 518-519-521 84. Name three methods of cooking ground meat . .507,527 85. What chops are best for broiling? 539 86. , What makes pigs' ears of value as food? 552 87. What kind of. meat, and how proportioned, is best for sausage ? 554 88. What temperature of oven is best for roasting spare-ribs? Why? 562 89. What sauce best aocompaniea veal? ,. . . 573 90. What process is necessary before cooking sweet- breads? 584-586-587 91. What stuflElng is best for roast game? 611 EGGS 92. Give test for determining fresh eggs. 633 93. What is the best method of cooking eggs in shell? Why? t^ 633-634 94. Which process prevents the hardening of the whites of eggs? .........;..... 634 95. What method in poaching eggs will prevent the whites from spreading? '. 634 96. What is the most indigestible way of cooking eggs? • . ; , 635 97. On what does the lightness of omelette depend. . 641 98. Why must the omelette be cooked quickly? .... 641 99.' What effect will standing have on an omelette? . . 641 100. Why are small omelettes more successful than large ones? 642 101. Why must additions to omelettes be -folded in, in- stead of beaten? 642 102. Why should the whites be beateil separately in making baked omelette ? 645 J074 THE COOKING SCHOOL Page. 103. What process of cooking eggs is mosl digesUtile? 641 104. What general rule must be observed in serving eggs? 636 105. Why must omelette always be served in a hot dish? ■ 641 106 Name six methods of cooking eggs . .634-635-636,641 107. What change in the method of cooking has the combining of other material with eggs caused? 641 VEGETABLES 1, What special benefit to Potato Balls ar^d Stuffed Potatoes is the white of egg? 647-648 2. Why is it necessary to dry raw potatoes before frying? 648-649 1. Why would it be best to beat yolks and whites of eggs separately ia making Potato Puff? .... 651 'i. Why should potatoes be of uniform size when cooked together? 653 5. What would happen if potatoes were not thrown in cold water as soon as pared? 653 6. Potatoes frequently break open when boiling. How can this be prevented? 653 7. What makes soggy potatoes? 654 S. Why should Brown Potatoes be placed on blotting paper before sending to table? .656, 663 !). Why should the water be boiling violently when the rice is first added? 661 10. What test is used 'to ascertain whether the Rice souffle is done? 667 1 1 . How does the temperature of the oven for Rice souffle differ from that of other souffles? .... 667,941-942 12. On what four points does the success of a soufilfi depend? 667 13. Of what is macaroni composed? . .'. 667 14. What rule should always be observed in boiling macaroni? 670-671 15. What is the difference between vermicelli and macaroni? 676 16. By what other name is oyster plant known? 678 17. When should string beans be boiled without a cover? , 687,693 18. "Why should peas not be washed after shelling? . . 693 19. What effect would too much soda have on green peas? ...• 694 20. How long should green peas be cooked? 694 21. What effect will standing in water after being cooked have on green corn? 698 QUESTIONS 1075 Page. 22. Why must an inch or two of stem be left on beets before cooking? 702 23. How can the freshness of asparagils be de- termined? 710 24. Is it best to cook cauliflower whole or in pieces? 724-725 25. Which is the best method of preserving the color of greens? 720 26. How can cabbages be kept fresh? 721 27. In pickling cucumbers, what precautions must be taken to prevent moulding? 729 28. Should spinach be boiled covered or uncovered? 729, 730 29. What effect has freezing on winter squash? 733 30. What medicinal power has Onion Porridge? 735 31. What is the easiest method of removing skins from tomatoes? 742, 745 32. Why should tomatoes be eaten with only a small amount of vinegar? 742 33. How long should tomatoes be stewed? 742, 745 34. What variety of chestnuts are best for cooking purposes? 757 35. What are truffles? 760 36. What variety of truffles are best and how are those used? 761 FRUITS AND CEREALS 37. Why should the white inner skin of lemons and oranges always be discarded? 763 38. How can out bananas be preserved from discolor- ation? 766 39. Why should sugar not be allowed to stand long on berries? 773 40. What rule applies to the preparation of all fresh fruits for the table? 772 41. Why should' the slicing of fresh pineapple be avoided? 775 42. What is the secret of properly cooked oatmeal and other cereals? • 776 BREAD 43. Why must dough be carefully covered while rising? • • • '^'^^ 44. What benefit is the buttering of loaves , before baking? --. • "^"^^ 45. What time should be allowed for the bakmg of bread? ' '^''8 J076 THE COOKING SCHOOL Page. 46. Why must care be taken to keep the temperature of liquids to be used in bread and rolls luke- warm? 782 47. How can toast be softened temporarily? 794 48. What precaution is taken to prevent milk from curdling in making Cream Toast? 795 49. What effect would standing in a warm room have on Tutti-Frutti Sandwiches? 790 50. What salad dressing is most suitable in making sandwiches of salad greens? 803 51. How may sandwiches be kept moist and fresh after' making? 807 52. What advantage is gained by cutting crusts from sandwiches ? , 807 BATTER CAKES 53. What should be the consistency of all batters? . . . 808 54. What kind of apples are best for Fritters? 811 CAKES 55. What are the characteristics of properly made griddle cakes? 813 56. What would be the result if grease were put upon the griddle ? 813 57. How does the batter for griddle cakes differ in consistency from other batters? 813 58. How does the preparation of baking powder in Buckwheat Cakes differ from other kinds?. .813, 817 59. On what does the lightness, of Popovers depend?. . 822 60. Why should Huckleberry Shortcake be broken instead of out? 824-825 61. Why should the dry ingredients be sifted so often in making Angel Food? 825 62. On what does the sucess of Angel Pood depend?. . 825 63. Why must Angel Food be baked very slowly?. . . . 825 64. Why are the dry ingredients added alterbately with the milk and eggs in Bride's Cake? 826 65. Why is not baking powder used with sweet milk in making Devil's Cake? . 829 66. By adding, separately, whites of eggs as a last ingredient to cake batter, what jDeneflt is de- rived? 832 67. Why is it best for Wedding Cake to be made several weeks before using? 833 08. Hovv long should Wedding Cake be beaten? 834 69. What advantage is it to line the pan with paper in baking Wedding Cake? 834 70. What is the rule for baking loaf cakes?. .832, 836, 838 QUESTIONS J077 Page. 71. How does the temperature of the oven for fruit cakes differ from that for larger cakes? 840 72. How can a Pound Cake be kept from becoming too brown on top? 841 73. How can Pound Cake be tested to ascertain whether sufficiently baked? 842 74. What precaution should be observed in cooling Pound Cake ? 842 FILLINGS AND ICINGS 75. Why is it necessary to cook Cream Filling in a double boiler ? , -.,.... 844 76. Why add egg yolks after the milk is thickened in making Chocolate Filling? . .' 844 77. What would happen if the syrup were added suddenly to beaten whites in making Boiled Icing? 845 78. In what temperature oven should cookies be baked? 847 79. Why do drop cakes require a quicker oven than cookies ? 848, 850 80. How thick should doughnut dough be? 852 SALADS AND RELISHES 81. What proportion of oil and vinegar is best in French Dressing? 855 82. Why should French Dressing not be allowed to stand? 857 83. Why should the Ingredients of Mayonnaise Dress- ing be kept very cold? 857 84. At what season of the year are salads most bene- ficial? 861 85. What should characterize all green vegetables used in salads? 861 86. What salads are seasonable in winter? . .863, 865, 869 87. How can dandelion leaves be Srisped? 870 88. Why should salads be served immediately after mixing? 861, 875, 876, '894 89. How should the celery and lobster be proportioned in Lobster Salad? 879 90. Why should apples be cut instead of chopped for salad? 890, 892 91. How can you oreserve the green color of gherkins when pickled? 902 92. All the recipes for sour pickles demand that they stand in salt water for some time. Why is this so? 902, 903 J078 THE COOKING SCHOOL INVALID COOKERY Page. 93. What is the best method of removing fat from broth ? 906 94. What precaution should be observed in making calve's foot jelly? 908 PRESERVING 95. What points must be observed in canning fruit to insure its keeping? 918 DESERTS 90. In what temperature of oven should pastry be baked? 921-922 97. Why is it so necessary to serve a soufDc; im- mediately? 941-9/i2 98. How do parfaits differ from ice-cream ? . .965, 966, 969 99. How does a mousse differ from a parfait? 969, 971, 972 100. What influence has a surplus of sugar on freez- ing? 974 101. What composes a Water Ice? 974 102. Why should flavoring never be added to candy before cooking? 979 CHAFING-DISH RECIPES 1 . Why is it best to prepare food as much as possible before use in chafing dish? 993-994 2. When is it necessary to remove the water-pan?. . 994 3. Should omelette be cooked with or without the water-pan ? 999 NUTS 4. Of what value are nuts as food? 1005 5. What method is used to free almonds of their skin? 1006 6. How can nut butter be thinned? 1006 7. In serving nut souffle, what precautions must be observed? ■ 1006 CARVING 8. What three things are necessary to become a good carver? 1010 9. Why is it a mistake for the head of the table to do all the carving? 1010 10. What points are to be avoided when carving? . . . .1011 11. What is the first essential to good carving? 1010 QUESTIONS J079 Page. 12. What is the first thing to do when the meat is set before you? 1011 13. How should the fork be used? 1011 14. If the meat is tough, what- is the duty of the carver toward the hostess? 1012 15. In cutting a rib roast, how should the meat be cut in relation to the ribs? 1012 16. How should a sirloin roast be cut? 1013 17. What advantage is gained by cutting steak in strips? 1013 18. How wide should the strips be? 1014 19. Why should the outer slice of Corned Beef be discarded? 1014 20. Why should Leg of Mutton be carved from the center first? 1014 21. What are the most choice portions of tongue? . ... 10 1 5 22. What difference should be made between carving ham and mutton ? 1015 23. In carving Breast of Veal, which is sliced first, the brisket or the ribs? . . 101 fi- 24. In carving fowl, where must the fork be placed? . . lOn 25. What parts must be removed first? 1017 26. What portion of Wild Duck is left uncarved? 1019 27. Why should a steel knife never be used in carving fish? 1020 28. What are the best cuts of Rabbit? 1019 29. What should be avoided in serving fish? 1020 30. Why is it important to carve Boiled Pish quick- ly? 1020 BEVERAGES 3J. Why is boiling water added to coffee very slow- ly? 1021 32. How can the strength of coffee be increased?. . . 1021 33. What is the most nutritious method of preparing coffee? 1021 34. How does black coffee differ from other coffee? . . 1021 35. Why is it necessary to have water freshly boiled for coffee or tea? , 1023 36. What effect will standing with the grounds have on coffee or tea? 1023 37. What is the purpose of the long boiling of cocoa shells? 1021 38. Why must chocolate be first mixed with cold water before adding to hot liquid? 102 i 39. Which beverage contains the most nourishment? 1025 40. Why must the milk be warmed for Koumiss? 1023 41. How long should Koumiss stand before using? . . . 1026 1080 THE COOKING SCHOOL Page. 42. What is the purpose of chilling Koumiss as soon as it has worked? 1026 43. What advantage is derived from putting the roots in cold water in making Root Beer? 1026 4 4. What test proves that fermentation is completed in making cider? 1027 45. Should the syrup be cooled before pouring over orange rinds in making Orangeade? Why?.. 1028 46. What proportion of lemon to a glass of water Is best in making Lemonade? 1030 47. Would it be a good idea to beat the egg before adding to Lemonade? 1031 48. What benefit is the orange oil to the Lemon- ade? 1031 49. What detriment to Lemonade would result if seeds were allowed to stand in it? 1031 50. What mixture in the soda water causes it to effervesce? 1032 51. Why is filtering so important in making Black- berry Wine? 1033-1034 52. Why is" beet-root added to Currant Wine? 1034 53. Why is elderberry especially adapted for wine- mnking? 1036 54. How does Elderberry Wine differ from others in keeping qualities? 1037 55. What peculiarity makes the morillo cherry best fitted for Cherry Brandy? 1038 56. How long ought Apricot Brandy stand before using? 1039 57. For what ailment is Dandelion Wine especially beneflci.nl? ■ lO'^" 58. Why should the bottles for Grape Wine be laid on their sides when filled? 1040-1041 INDEX Acids, effect of vinegar, lemon, etc., 101 Adelaide sandwich, 803 Alaska baked ice cream, 968 Albumen, 9, 10 Almond and orange ice, 975 cake, 826 chocolate drops, 985 creams, 985 jumbles, 849 milk soup, 334 sauce for pudding, 959 Amber, oonsommS, 314 American soup, 383 Anchovies, 460 and olives, 897 . eggs stuffed with, 638 stuffed, 896 substitute for caviare, 898 Anchovy paste, 898 sandwich, 807 sauce, 494 Angel food, 825 Animal diet, 108 Anise-seed cakes, 848 Apples, baked, 767 in pastry, 770 steamed, 195, 227 stewed, 769 stewed in whiskey, 768 Apple butter, 920 butter, American, 769 dumpling, baked, 921 gems, 792 mange, 947 meringue, 937 pie, green, 921 pie, Dutch, 922 pie, cream, 922 - pudding, Enghsh, 928 Apple sauce, 770 snow (No. 1), 944, 948 soup, 404 Apple, tapioca pudding, 935 water, 284, 905 Apricot brandy, 1039 , custard, 946 fritters, 809 ice cream, 962 Arabian coffee, 1022 Arrowroot jelly, 906 souffle, -940 Artichokes i I'ltalienne, 714 fried, 712 Jerusalem, fricasseed, 713 Jerusalem, stewed, 712 pur^e of Jerusalem, 714 stewed in gravy, 712 stuffed, 713 Asparagus, 215 h. la crfeme, 711 boiled, 710 fricasseed, 711 omelet, 642 scalloped, 709 soup, cream of, 350 tips, consomme with, 316 Aspic game or poultry, 624 jelly, 914 Avena, steamed, 225 Bacon, 31 baked eggs and, 636 boiled, 565 broiled, 565 calf's liver and, 579 and calf's liver, 565 and eggs, 566 mushrooms with, 683 Baked apples, 767 bass with shrimp sauce, 454 beans, Boston, 557 bean soup, 382 beefsteak k la Jardinifire, 530 1081 1082 INDEX Baked blueflsh, 416 calf's head, 572 calf's heart, 630 carp, 465 cauliflower, 715 chicken, 596 chowder, 417 cod's head, 420 crabs, 471 creamed codfish, 418 - eels, 450 egg-plant, 705 eggs and bacon, 636 eggs and tomatoes, 750 ■ fish, 187 . fresh mackerel with oyster dressing, 431 fried chicken, 597 halibut with lobster sauce, 438 mushrooms, 683 omelet, 645 partridges, 616 pickerel, 464 pike in sour cream (Ger- man), 4C2 pur6e, 697 red snapper, 455 salmon-trout, 442 salt mackerel, 187 sausages, 556 shad, 432 smelts, 446 soft clams, 479 tomatoes with eggs, 747 Baking, casserole, 177 process, 185 time table, 295 Ballotin of lamb, with green peas, 546 Balnamoon skink, or Irish soup, 332 Banana fritters, 810 shortcake, 824 Banbury tarts, 923 Barley gruel, 905 soup, cream of, 343 water, 905 Bass, baked, with shrimp sauce, 454 Basting, 189 Batters, 196 Bavarian cream, 955 Bean and tomato soup, 379 (baked) soup, 382 (dried) soup, 369 (lima) pur^e, 360 (red), pur^e, 359 (mock turtle) soup, 3S0 soup, 382 (tomato and) soup, 375 (white) soup, 373 Beans, boiled, '218 Boston baked, 575, 692 dried, 221 French, & la maltre d'hatel, 687 fricasseed, 690 haricot (lima beans), h. la maitre d'hOtel, 68R haricot, with onions, 080 kidney, 691 lima, k la poulette, 689 nlashed, 690 string beans, 215 string, boiled, 686 string (cream sauce), 687 string, with gravy, 687 Beauregard cod, 421 Bechamel sauce, 495 Beef Ji la mode, 515 and chicken stock, 308 appearance of good 26 balls, 526 bouillon, 309 braising recipe, 175 brisket of, stewed, 533 corned, 534 creamed dried, 525 Beef, curried, 526 dried, with eggs, 525 flUet of, braised, 533 fore-quarter of, 27 fricandeau of, 536 fritters, 535 hash, 518 heart, boiled, 532 hind-quarter of, 27 hot-pot, 531 INDEX (083 Beef, how divided by butcher, 27 juice, 289 liver, breaded, 523 loaf, 527 most nourishing of meats, 22 mutton, and veal brQth, 906 names of different parts, 126 patties, 'meat for, 535 porterhouse steak, 27 pot roast, 175 prime ribs, 27 ragoOt of, 519 r^ohauff^ k la Jardiniere 526 rissoles of, 518 roast recipe, "don'ts," 190 rolled boiled, 530 sides of, 27 sirloin, 27 smothered, 522 soup, 310, 321 snup (French method) 144 spiced pressed, 520 steaks, 27 \ steaks, short, 27 steak and onions, 509 steak, baked, k la jar- diniere, 530 steak pie, 593 steak with mushrooms, 508 stew, recipe, 162 Beef stew with dumplings, 516 tea, 281, 289, 906 tea, hot, 1025 tenderloin of, 27 tongue, braised (No. 1), 532 tongue fillets, sautged, 629 Beer soup (German method), 402 Beet greens with young beets, 703 soup, cream of, 338 Beets, 702 boiled, 220 creamed, 704 pickled, 704 selecting, washing, cook- ing, 212 Belgian hare, 40 hare, stuffed and roasted, 616 Bernaise sauce, 500 Beverages, 205 . apricot brandy, 1039 beef tea, 1025 blackberry wine, 1033 cherry brandy, 1038 cherry wine, 1039 chocolate, 1024 cider, 1027 , cocoa, 1024 cocoa shells, 1024 coffee, various styles, 1021, 1022 cowshp wine, 1035 curaeoa, 1037 currant wine, 1034 dandelion wine, 1040 elderberry whie, lO^Ci ginger beer, 1029, 1030 ginger cordial, 1038 grape juice, 1041 grape wine, 1040, 1041 horse's neck, 1032 koumiss, 1025 lemonade, various styfes, 1030, 1031 Beverages — limeade, 1027 May wine, 1035 milk and seltzer, 1025 milk shake, 1025 nectar, 1032 orangeade, 1028 orange sherbet, 1032 pineapple water, 1029 rhubarb Wine, 1041 root beer, 1026 Saratoga cooler, 1030 seidlitz water, 1026 t084 INDEX Beverages, soda cocktail, 1032 soda nectar, 1032 tea punch, 1024 lea, various styles, 1023 Biscayan cod, 419 Biscuit, 234, 970 glace, 972 tortoni, 974 Bisque, ctieese, 357 chicken, 353 clam, 352 corn, 357 of crabs, 356 of halibut (No. 1), 353 of lobster, 355 mock, 358 oyster, 355 salmon, 354 tomato (No. 1), 358 Black bass, boiled, with cream gravy, 453 Blackberry pudding, 936 wine, 1032 Blanching, 203 Blancmange, Irish moss, corn starch, 290 Blanquette of lamb, 545 of veal, with cucumbers, 582 Bloaters, broiled, 456 Blueflsh, baked, 416 broiled, 415 Bohemian ice cream, 964 Boiled asparagus, 710 bacon, 565 BCiled beef, rolled, 530 beef's heart, 532 beets, 704 black bass, with cream gravy, 453 cabbage, 722 calves' tongue, 573 carrots, 708 celery, 706 dinner, old-fashioned, 524 eggs, 633 fresh codfish, 422 halibut, 438 Boiled leg of mutton, 539 mutton, recipe, 156 parsnips, 685 potatoes, recipe, 155 red snapper, 455 salmon, 441 salmon- trout, 443 sausages, with white wine, 557 soft-shell crabs, 470 string beans, 686 sweetbreads, plain, 586 sweetbreads with tomato sauce, 586 water, when not to use, 151 winter squash, 733 Boiling; effect in food ele- ments, 151 meat, 25, 154 meat, effect, 153 meat for stews and fri- cassees, 154 process, 150 time table, 297 vegetables, 155 vegetables, whole in soft water, 154 water containing salt or sugar, 153 water, soft and harh, 153 Bonbons, 979 Boned baked pickerel, 465 Bones, stock from, 307 Boning, 203 Boning — recipe, 204 Boston baked beans, 557, 692 brown bread, 781 Bouillabaisse, 400 Bouillon, beef, 309 nutritive value slight, 19 stimulating effect of, 20 Brain„ calf's, breaded, 574 sauce, 574 Braised beef, recipe, beef's tongue (No. 1), 532 fillet of beef, 533 fillet of mutton, 541 INDEX ]085 Braised, or smothered sweetbreads, 589 Braising process, 174 Bread, 229 Boston brown, 781 breakfast rolls, 786 crumbs, 216 custard pudding, 938 dressing for game, 503 entire wheat, 235 for turliey, 603 fried for soup, 794 Graham, 235 made with a sponge, 235 making, essentials, 229 making, fermentation, 233 nutritive quality, analysis, etc., 97 raised corn bread, 236 raised muffms, 236 recipes, 234 sauce, 501 sour, how caused, 233 sticks, 782 cheese toast, 797 coffee-bread, 785 cream toast, 795 creamed mushroom toast, 796 egg muffms, 791 Enghsh muffins, 788 fried or French toast, 795 Breads — Graham, 780 Graham muffins, 790 Graham rolls, 787 German toast, 793 hominy muffins, 790 hot cross buns, 788 milk toast, 795 oatmeal muffins, 791 oyster toast, 796 Parker House rolls, 787 plain corn, 781 pulled, 779 rice muffins, 790 rusk, 784 rye, 781 Scotch shortbread, 785 Scotch soda scones, 785 Bread, Sally Lunn, 784 Sally Lunn muffins, 790 toast, buttered, 793 unfermented, 779 Virginia corn, 780 whole wheat, 779 zwieback, 796 Breaded calf's brains, 574 beef's liver, 523 veal cutlets, with tomato sauce, 568 Bread pudding, light, 907 hominy (boiled), 776 rolls, English, 789 Breast of lamb, roasted k la Milanese, 545 of veal, stuffed, 572 Brioche paste, 253 Brisket of beef, stewed, 533 Brochettes, lamb, 547 Broiled bacon, 565 bloaters, 456 blueflsh, 415 brook trout, 463 calf's liver, 578 canvas-back duck, 608 green corn, 702 halibut, 439 ham, 566, lamb chops, 549 mackerel, 42& Broiled mackerel, and tarra- gon butter, 430 mushrooms, 679 mutton chops, 539 oysters, in the shell, or on the half shell, 475 oysters on toast, 476 pheasant, 649 pork and Chili sauce, 551 pork chops, 560 salt cod, 420 shad, 434 smoked salmon, 444 steak, recipe, 183 sweetbreads with stuffed tomatoes, 587 teal ducks, 609 venison steaks, 621 1086 INDEX Broiling chickens, time for, 182 e'ssentials for 180 meat, test for, 182 meat, use of buttered paper, 182 pan -broiling, 183 time-taBle for, 184 time-table, 297 Brook trout, broiled, 463 Broth, beef, mutton, and veal, 906 calves' feet, 908 chicken, 328, 909 clear, 907 mutton, 328, 912 Scotch mutton, 330 veal, 912 Broths, white, with vermi- celli, 914 Brown-bread pudding, 938 Brown sauce, 493 Browned potato soup, 37§ Brunette sandwich, 806 Brunoise soup, 312 Brussels sprouts, 719 sprouts, saut6, 720 sprout, consomm6 with. 316 Buckwheat cakes, -817 Buns, hot cross, 788 Burdwan, Indian, 606 sugar (for sauces and soups), 407 Butter, apple, American, 769 cakes, 791 mattre d'hOtel, 495 nut, 1006 over-salted, bad for cooking :' cheap butter not economical, 71 Scotch, 979 Buttered toast, 793 Cabbage, 213 h la Lilloise, 721 and bacon, 718 boiled, 218, 722 Cabbage, creamed, 719 how to keep fresh, 721 soup, cream of, 345 stuffed, 720 Swiss, 725 Caf6 au lait, 1021 Cake,- almortds for, 266 chemistry of, 262 containing butter baked by moderate heat, 263 egg frosting, 271 eggs, how treated, 266 frosting, boiled, 270 gingerbread, 270 lemon peel used, 266 light, 268 making, 262 molasses, 269 plain frosting, 271 plain recipe, 267 sponge, 269 sugar for, 266 sunshine frosting, 271 Cakes, almond, 826 angel food, 825 anise-seed, 848 apricot fritters, 809 apple gems, 792 banana fritters, 810 Cakes — ^banana shortcake, 824 Bride's, 826 buckwheat, 817 butter, 791 caramel,. 831 care in getting flour, 266 care of butter, 265 care of currants, 265 cheese, 843 cherry shortcake, 824 chocolate cream, 828 citron, 840 clam fritters, 808 cocoanut layer, 827 corn, 823 corn fritters, 811 corn-meal griddle, 816 cream, 835 cream pancakes, 820 currant, 842 INDEX J087 Cakes, dark fruit, 840 devil's, 829 drop, 848 electric, 836 English pancakes, 818 English walnut, 830 fish, 410 fish and meat fritters, 809 'flannel cakes, 817 for card party, 830 for musical, 828 fortune, 837 fritters (batters), 807 fruit, 832 gold, 886 Graham gems, 792 Graham griddle, .814 griddle, 198 griddle, Geneva, 815 griddle, with eggs, 814 hickory nut, 830 hoe, 823 hominy griddle, 818 honigkuchen, 843 huckleberry, 835 huckleberry griddle, 815 Cakes — huckleberry short- cake, 824 Indian griddle, 816 jelly, 887, Johnny, 822 lemon, 837 lemon cheese, 843 marbled,' 831 marshmallow, 838 Mocha, 826 orange,. 838 orange fritters, 810 oyster fritters, 808 pancakes, 818 pancakes (h la cr6me), 819 pancakes, French, 820 pancakes, German, 821 pancakes, plain, 819 pancakes, snow, 820 pancakes, without eggs, 821 peach fritters, 811 ^ peach shortcake, 824 Cakes, pineapple fritters, 810 popovers, 822 puffball fritters, 811 plain layer, 829 pound, 841 raspberry shortcake, 821 ' rice gems, 79.2 rice griddle, 816 rice waffles, 812 rum, 839 Russian punch tart, 843 rye griddle, 814 shortcake, 823 silver, 829 small, 847 snow, 830 Southern corn pone, 823 sponge, 839 strawberry shortcake, 824 sunshine, 827 Thanksgiving surprise, 889 vegetable fritters, 811 violette, 8 29 wedding, 8 32 wheat, 813 Calf's brains, breaded. 574 foot consommS, 314 head, baked, 575 liver and bacon, 565, 5-79 liver and onions saut^ed, 579 liver, broiled, 578 longue, boiled, 573 r-ives' feet broth, 908 Calves' feet jelly, 908 Canap6 caviare, 897 Candies, almond chocola te drops, 985 almond creams, 985 bonbons, 979 butterscotch, 979 chocolate caramels, 980 Comanche, 984 conked cream walnuts, 981 cream caramels, 980 • cream cocoanut, 981 fudges, 983 toss INDEX Candies, general directions, 978 hickory-nut, 982 how to pull candy, 979 lefnon and peppermint drops, 980 maple sugar caramel, 983 nougat, 984 peanut brittle, 983 plain taffy, 981 Penuchi, 983 popcorn balls, 986 uncooked creamed nuts, 982 velvet molasses, 982 Canning fruit, 917 apple butter, 920 chipped gingered pear, 918 jam, 919 marmalade, 919 Canvas-back duck, broiled, 608 Canvas-back duck, roasted, 608 Caper sauce, for boiled mutton, 156 sauce for mutton, 501 Capon, 34-37 roasted with cream stuff- ing, 604 Caramel filling for cake, 845 (for sauces and soups), 407 ice cream, 968 pudding, 942 syrup, 201 Carp, 49 baked, 465 Carrot pur^e, 360 soup, 377 Carrots, 213, 221 (a, la Flamande), 707 boiled, 708 how to dress in the Ger- man way, 709 stewed in cream, 709 • Carving, beefsteak, 1013 boned chicken, 1019 Carving, breast of veal, 1016 broiled chicken, 1019 chicken, boned and broiled, 1019 chicken or turkey, 1017 corned beef, 1014 duck, 1018 fillet of veal, 1016 flsh, 1020 flsh, planked or broiled, 1020 fore-quarter of lamb, 1015 goose, 1018 ham, l0l5 hare, 1019 haunch of venison, 1016 lamb, fore-quarter of, 1015 leg of 'mutton, 1014 loin of veal, 1015 mutton, leg of, 1014 mutton, saddle of, 1016 partridge, pheasant, quail, 1019 pig, sucking, 1017 rabbits, 1019 rib roast, 1012 saddle of mutton, 1016 sirloin roast, 1012 steaks, round and rump, 1014 sucking pig, 1017 tongue, 1014 turkey or chicken, 1017 veal, breast of, 1016 veal, fillet, 1016 veal, loin of, 1015 venison, haunch of, 1016 woodcock, snipe, and plover, 1019 Casserole, 177 of fish, 413 rice and meat, 178 , tomato sauce, 178 Catfish, fried, 464 Catsup, mushroom, 684 tomato, 904 Cauliflower, 213 au gratin, 716 INDEX H)89 Cauliflower, baked, 715 boiled with butter sauce, 715 escalloped, 715 how to cools, 714 in cheese, 718 soup, cream of, 351 with stuffing, 717 In tomato sauce, 717 Cavea soft-shell, 58 soft-shell, boiled, 479 soft-shell, fried, 471 Cracker raisin pudding, 934 Cranberry soup, 384 Crayfish in jelly, 458 Cream, Bavarian, 955 canary, 949 caramels, 980 cheese soup, No. 1 and 2, 336 cherry, 956 chicken, soup, 341 chocolate, 952 filling, 200, 844 frangiparie, 950 honeycomb, 951 jellyfish, 956 junkfet, 954 Cream, lemon puff, 954 lemon whip, 954 of asparagus soup, 350 of barley soup, 343 of beet soup, 338 of cabbage soup, 345 of cauliflower soup, 351 of celery soup, 357 of chestnut soup, 349 of green pea soup, 351 of lettuce soup, 350 of mushroom soup, 344 of pea soup, 338 of potato, 344 of sago soup, 339 of sorrel soup, 343 of spinach with egg balls, 348 of turnip soup, 339 of watercress, 341 onion soup, 837 pie, 926 puffs, 200, 927 Russian, 955 sauce, 489 soups, 334 Swiss, 949 velvet, 950 tomato soup, 337 whipped, 952 Creamed beets, 704 cabbage, 719 corn, 700 dried beef, 525 lobster on toast, 470 mushrooms, 681 oysters, 474 oyster plant, 679 salt codfish, 421 shad, 433 shad roe with mushrooms, 436 CrSoy soup, 321 Croquettes, fish, 412 hominy, 431 nut, 1008 roe, 436 strawberry, 766 sweetbread, 588 INDEX J093 C-ocjuetteSj veal, with mushrooms, 576 Uroustades, lobster, 632 Croutons, 407, 216 Crullers, 8^2 Cucumber sauce, 491 Cucumber a la poulette, 727 consomme with, 316 how lo dress, 729 mangoes, 725 picls;led, 728 Cucumbers, slewed, 727 stuffed, 726 "Cupful," as a measure, 292 Cups, fruit, 764 strawberry, 766 GuraQoa, 1037 Currant jelly sauce, 497, 957 rolls, 783 wine, 1034 Curried beef, 526 eggs, 640 lentils, 692 mutton, 542 pork, 550 tomatoes with okra, 743 tomatoes with rice, 743 Curry, consomm6, 319 of salmon, 443 chicken, 599 Custard, boiled, 194 com, 291 pudding, baked, 945 puddlDg, boiled, 945 sauce, 943, 957 soft, 227 steamed, 289 Cutlets (flsh). 412 mutton, and mushrooms, 539 pork, fried, 651 veal. Breaded, with tomato sauce, 558 veal, plain, 568 ^ vegetable, 716 Daily ration, the choice of, 110 Dandelion wine, 1040 Date pudding, 935 Definitions, of terms used in cooking, 1046-1064 Desserts, 277 Devilled crabs (No. 1), 471 halibut, 439 lobster, 470 or stuffed eggs, 637 sausages, 556 Devil's cake, 829 Diet, essentials for outdoor laborer; for 'ndoor worker, 118 simple, necessary for very young, and very old, 117 tables, for varying, 119 varieties; animal, vege- table, and mixed, 106 Digestibility of cake, of cake with butter, 262, 263 of cheese, 73 of different meats, 22 of eggs, 89 of flsh, 43 of fruit, 99 of game, 40 of gruels, 280 of liquid foods, 279 of lobster, 58 of meats and fats, 17 of milk, 70 of pork, 31 of toast, 282 Doughnuts, 852 German, 852 Drawing -poultry, 35 Draw butter, 491, 492 Dressed endive, 756 Dressing, bread, for game, 503 chestnut, 503 for baked flsh, 490 for salad (see also "Salad dressings"), 855 potato, for duck, -503 Dried beef » with eggs, 625 beef, creamed, 525 bean soup, 369 J094 INDEX Drop cakes, 848 Duchess consomm^, 318 eggs, 636 sauce, 957 soup, 324 Ducks, canvas-back, broiled, 608 canvas-back, roasted, 608 Ducks,' care of, before kill- ing, 37 carving, 1018 in jelly, 612 ruddy, roast, 608 salmi of, 610 selecting in market, 37 teal, broiled, 609 wild, 38 Ears, pigs', baked, 552 Economy, true, in buying meats, 22 Edible snails, 480 Eel soup, 395 Eels, baked, 450 braised, royal style, 451 fried, 450 Eggs and spinach, 639 au beurre noire, 639 bacon and, 566 baked, 91 baked, and bacon, 636 baked, and tomatoes, 750 boiled, 633 curried, 640 devilled or stuffed, 637 digestibility o*, 89. dried beef with, 525 dropped, 90 duchesse, 636 floating island, 93 for invalid, 911 fried, 635 fried ham, with, 567 nutritive value, analysis 88 omelets* plain, fpamy, meat, baked meat, 92, 93 poached, 91, 634 Eggs, receipes, how lo cook in water, 89 riced,94 scallops and, 472 scrambled, 90, 635 shirred, 640 stuffed with anchovies, 638 to test freshness, 633 Venetian, 994 with cheese, 636 with tomatoes, 638 Egg balls, 348 lemonade, 1031 muffins, 791 Eggnogg, 288 Egg-plant, baked, 705 Egg-plant, fried, recipe, 172 fried, 705 puffs, or fritters, 705 stuffed with nuts, 705 Egg sandwiches, 798 sauce, 490 soup, 144, 387 wine, 910 Elderberry wine, 1036 Electric cake, 836 Endive, dressed, 756 English beef soup, 321 walnut cake, 830 Entries, beef tongue fillets, saut6ed, 629 ^ chicken timbales, 631 lobster croustades, 632 sheep's tongue in aspic, 627 stewed ox kidney, 627 Epigrammes, lamb, with as- paragus tips, 548 Escalloped cauUflower, 715 cori;i, 698 mushrooms, 682 Espagnole sauce, 496 Pagadu bradu, 732 Family soup, 369 Farina blocks (German), 405 Farmer's chowder, 374 INDEX J095 Farcied or. stuffed roast beef, 513 Fats, 10 digestibility of, 18 for frying and future use, 166, 169 uses and values of, 24 Feet, pigs', boiled, 552 Feet, pigs', stuffed & la P^ri- gueux, 553 Fig pudding, frozen, 970 F116e, gumbo, soup, 332 Fillet of beef, braised, 533 Fillets, codfish, HoUandaise, 423 Fillet of flounders, 448 of mutton, braised, 541 Filleted sole {k I'ltallenne), 459 Filling, cream, 844 chocolate cream, 844 chocolate, 844 cocoanut, 844 caramel, for cake, 845 Finnan haddie, 1004 a la Delmonico, 449 broiled, 450 Fire, making, 131 when to use "hot," and when " slow," in oook- ing meats, 24 Fish, 408 k la crfeme, 410 k la Paris, 415 American, 55 analysis of, 42 anchovies, 460, 896 baked, 48, 60, 187 baked bass with shrimp sauce, 454 baked carp, 465 baked cod's head, 420 baked creamed codfish, 418 baked eels, 450 baked fresh mackerel with oyster dressing, 431 baked halibut with lob- ster sauce, 438 Fish, baked pickerel, 464 baked red snapper, 455 baked salmon-trout, 442 baked shad, 432 baked smelts, 446 baked stufQng for, 60 Beauregard cod, 421 Bisoayan cod, 419 blueflsh, 57 bluefish (baked), 416 blueflsh (broiled), 415 boiled, 61 , boiled black bass, with cream gravy, 453 boiled fresh codfish, 422 boiled halibut, 438 boiled mackerel (German method), 430 boiled red snapper, 455 boiled salmon, 441 boiled salmon-trout, 443 boiling, 44 boned baked pickerel, 165 broiled, 59 broiled bloaters, 456 broiled flnnan-haddie, 450 brojled halibut, 439 broiled mackerel, 429 broiled salt cod, 420 broiled shad, 434 broiled smoked salmon, 444 broiling 50 brook trout, 57 brook trout, broiled, 463 cakes, 410 % casserole of, 413 carp, 49 catfish, 57 cheese and halibut scallop, 441 chowder, 63, 389 cleaning, 44 cod, 55 cod k la Bechamel, 418 codfish & la bonne, femme, 424 codfish cakes, 423 codfish fillets, HoUandaise, 423 1096 INDEX t'ish, codfish hash, 424 codfish in cream sauce, 424 codfish, maitre d'hOlel, 423 codfish souffle, 427 codfish with macaroni, 425 codfish tongues, fried, 429 cod tongues, poulette, 429 cod. tongues with black butter sauce, 429 cod tongues with egg sauce, 428 coquilles of (No. 1), 409 crayfish in jelly, 458 creamed, 62 creamed lobster on toast, 470 creamed salt codfish, 421 cre'amed shad, 433 creamed shad-roe with mushrooms, 436 croquettes, 412 curry of salmon, 443 cutlets, 412 devilled, 53 devilled halibut, 439 devilled lobster, 470 digestibility of, 43 eels, 57 eels braised, royal style, 451 en matelote, 414 fillet, 47 finnan hadme k la Del- monico, 449 flounder, 56 flounders au gratin, 448 flounders, fillet of, 448 flounders, fried (English), 448 fricassee, 47 (shell) fricasseed snap- ping turtle, 468 fried catfish, 464 fried eels, 450 fried shad-roe, 434 fried smelts, 447 Fish, (shell) fried soft-shell crabs, 471 Pish — frying, 46 haddock, 55 haddock, boiled, with egg sauce, 461 halibut, 55 halibut a la Creole, 439 halibut, baked with milli, 437 halibut steak Ji la Fla- mande, 440 halibut steak, baked willi tomatoes, 440 herring, 57 herring marinaded, 458 ice cream, 971 kingflsh, 57 less nourishing than meat, 43 lobster, 469 lobster k la Newburg, 469 lobster, prawns, and cray- fish, 58 lobster, stewed in cream, 469 mackerel broiled, and tar- ragon butter, 430 mackerel, caveaeh, 431 matelote of codfish, 426 mullet, 57 oysters (see "Shellfish") perch, fried, 464 pickled salmon, 444 pike, baked In sour cream (German), 462 planked, 52 planked shad, 434 p4td, 413 pompano, 57 porgies, 57 red snapper, 57 relishes, 896 rissols of, 414 roasting, 50 roe croquettes, 436 salmon, 56 salmon mayonnaise, 444 salmon on toast, 445 INDEX J097 Fish — salmon pie, 445 salt codnsh balls, 422 salt cod tidbit, 428 salt fish-balls, 62 salted, 55 salted cod with brown butter, 419 sandwich, 801 sardine fritters (Ger- man), 456 sauce, 49 sauce: "Drawn Butter," 6i scalloped, 411 scalloped shad roe, 436 scallop of salmon, 446 scallops and eggs, 472 sea-bass, 57 seasons of year for, etc., 55 selecting, 44, 130 shad, 56 shad, planked, 434 sheep's head, 57 sheep's head Ji la Creole, 457 sole, filleted (a. I'ltalien- ne), 459 soup, 395 Spanish mackerel, 57 steaming, 45 steaming red snapper; 454 stewed oqdflsh, 427 ■ stuffed S6a bass; 452 stuffed- smelts, 4-47 stiirgeon, 58", 466^ terrapin stewed, 467 turbot k la or^me, 451 turbot flUets;, 45'2 weakflah, 57 ' whitebaifri dressed,- - 4 6 1^ whiteflili,- 57 whiMBg' iux fines hsrbes (English')', 463' with mashed" potatoes, 411 Pish (shell) baked crabs, 471 Fish — ^baked soft clains, 479 Fish, boiled soft-shell crabs, 470 broiled oysters, in the shell, or on the half ■ shell, 475 broiled oysters on toast, 476 clam fritters, 479 creamed oysters, 474 devilled -crabs (No. 1), 471 fried oysters, 476 jatnbaiaya (East Indian recipe), 480 Old Virginia: fried oysters, 477 oysters and mushrooms, 477 oysters on the half shelf, 473 oysters "roasted" in their own liquor, 479 pigs in blankets, 480 scalloped oysters, 478 stewed oysters, 474 shrimps, 472 shrimps and mushroom, 473 smoked and cured, 54 snails, edible, 480 Fisherman's (French')chow- der, 392 Flannel oakeS, 817 Fleisch minuten, 581 Flemish soup, 368 Floating island,' 98 Flounders au gratjn, 448 fillet of, 448 Flour, 96 best lor bread, 229 ' test of purity, adulterants, 230 Foaming sauce, 957 Pood and its value; impor- tance of correct under- standiiig, 4 effect of boiling, on ele- ments of, 151 Food, number and value of works on subject, 1 1096 INDEX Pood, supplies heat to body and repairs the system, 5, classes of, derived from plants and animals, 6 compound, 14 liquid, 279 of animal origin, classi- fied, 14 of vegetable origin ; how differing from foods of animal origin^ 95 simple, 9 (simple) albumen; type, where found; coagula- tion, 9, 10 (simple) fats, 10 (simple) salt and mineral matter ; represented by table salt; othei^ salts; necessity of, 12 simple and compxiund, classified, 6, 7 (simple) starches and sugars; where found, etc., 11 table of comparative values, animal and vegetable foods, 103 to be fried, 169 types and character of, as determined by chemical analysis, 7, 8 types to be combined in arranging proper diet, 8 Force-meat balls, 405 Foreign names of meats, fruits, and vegetables, 1042-1045 terms of menu, 1042 Fortune cake, 837 Fowl, kuwab, 605 pie, 528 Frangipane, 950 Frankfort sausages, 557 French beans, k la mattre d'hdtel, 687 French fisherman's chowder, 392 ice cream, 965 French soup, 369 tomatoes, 752 Fricadelles of veal, 572 Fricandeau of beef, 536 Fricassee, 162 chicken, 164, 599 process, 154 veal 164, 576 Fricasseed asparagus, 711 beans, 690 Jerusalem artichokes, 713 snapping turtle, 468 Fried cakes, 853 catfish, 464 chicken, 596 cod tongues, 429 corn, 701 eels, 450 eggs, 635 egg-plant, recipe, 172 egg-plant, 705 green tomatoes, 750 ham, recipe, 173 ham and eggs, 173, 567 hominy, 776 Indian mush, 172 lamb chops, with Par- mesan, 549 liver (English), 534 mush, recipe, 172 oysters. Old Virginia, 477 oyster plant, 678 parsnips, 686 perch, 464 pork chops, 560 potatoes, recipe, 171 sausages, recipe. 172 scrapple and Indian mush, 172 ShadnToe, 434 smelts, 447 soft'SbeU oralis, 470 sweetbreads, 589 tomatoes, recipe, 171 tomatoes, 403 turnips, 408 Fritters, 196, 807 apple, 809 beef, 535 clam,' 479. 808 INDEX 1099 Fritters, corn, 699, 811 egg-plant, 705 fish and meat, 809 muskmelon, 765 oyster, 808 peach, 811 pineapple, 810 puff-ball, 811 sardines (German), 456 vegetable, 811 Progs' legs, 473 legs, fried, 473 Frosting for cake, 270 Fruits: apple butter, American, 769 apple sauce, 770 apples, baked, 767 apples, baked, for child- ren, 768 apples in pastry, 770 apples, stewed, 769 apples, stewed in whiskey,- 768 cherries (raw), 775 comp6te of fruit, 774 foreign names of, 1046- 1064 fruit cocktail, 764 fruit crown, 767 fruit cups, 764 .fruit parfait, 765 fruit pudding, 764 gooseberry soufll6, 772 gooseberry tart, 771 grape pudding, 774 grape timbale, 764 grapes in jelly, 774 iced fruits for dessert, 763 jellied fruit, 765 melons (musk.. and, cante- loape), 773 mushroom melon, 767 muskmelon fritters, 765 Fruits — oranges, how to serve, 772 pears, imperial, 763 pineapples, 775 sea-urchins, 766 Fruits, stewed prunes, 774 stewed rhubarb, 771 strawberry croquettes, 766 strawberry cups, 766 vegetarian fruit course, 766 Fruit cake, 832 cake, dark, 840 composition of; eftect of cooking on dried fruits, 99 cream, 969 digestibility when raw and when cooked, 99 mousse, 972 omelet, 644 soup, 403 Fry, lamb's, 548 Frying, chief foods for, 169 process of, 166 rapid method of cooking, 169 sautfiing, 170 time table, 297 Frijole soup, 385 Game, 32 aspic game or poultry,, 624 Belgian hare, stuffed and roasted, 616 canvas-back ducks, ■ broiled, 608 canvas-back ducks, roasted, 608 carving, 1016, 1019 digestibility of, 40 duck in jelly, 612 soup, 399 German hasenpfefCer, 615 grouse, roast, 621 Game, hanging of, 39 hare or raibit (German hasenpfeffer), 615 hare or rabbit, braised, 614 partridges, baked, 616 pheasant, broiled, 619 pigeons, stuffed and roasted (German method). 618 noo INDEX Game, plovers, roasted, 617 p4t6 of foies gras, 613 quails, roast, 619 quails, trussing of, 619 rabbit or hare (German hasenpfeffer) , 615 rabbit or hare, braised, 614 roast ruddy ducks, 609 roast teal, 610 salmi of duck, 610. snipes, cooked (German fashion), 620 teal ducks, broiled, 609 venison, roast (German recipe), 621 venison steaks, broiled, 621 woodcock, roast, 622 Garnishing, 300 Geese, 38 Geneva griddle cakes, 815 German farina blocks, 405 pancakes, 821 Gherkins, pickled, 902 Giblets, 37 . Giblet pie, 594 soup, 322 Ginger beer, 1029, 1030 Gingerbread, 270, 846 colonial, 846 soft, 846 sour milk,846 Ginger cordial, 1038 Glac6 Nfipolitaln,. 965 Glazed nuts, 1008 Glossary: terras used; , in cooking, 1046/-i064 Gold cake. 836 Golden sauce, 958 Goose, 38 in jelly, 612 roasty 611 Goosebeajry pie, 923 pudding, 929 soufflft, 772 tart, 771 Graham bread, 780 gems, 792 . griddle cakes, 8M Graham, muflBns, 790 pudding, steamed, 934 rolls, 787 Grape juice, 1041 pudding, 774 sauce, 916 timbale, 764 wine, 1040 Grapes in jelly, 774 Gravies and sauces, 14G thickening for, 147 Gravy for roasts, 192 Grecque, soup, ^ la, 344 Green corn, broiled, 702 corn omelet, 642 corn soufflg, 699 peas, 695 peas & la crfeme, 696 pea pur6e, 359 peas, soup, cream of, 351 peas, stewed,' 695 peas, to boil, 694 tomato sweet pickles, 904 tomatoes, fried, 750 Griddle cakes, 198, 813 cakes with eggs, 814 Grilled tomatoes, 746 Grouse, roast, 621 Gruel, 280,-288 barley, 909. oatmeal, wheatena, 285 water, 914* Gruetz, 929' Guinea fowl,. 39' Gumbo, chicken, 330 chicken, with oyfiters, 331 GuDDbo, fllSe soupv 332. oyster, 331 shrimp, 397 Haddock, boileidr with egg sav6e, 461 Halibut k la GrSole,. 439-. baked' with lobster sauce; 438 baked with milk, 437 bisque of, 353 boiled, 438 broiled, 439 devilled, 439 INDEX mi Halibut, scalloped, cheese and, 441 steak, k, laFlamande, 440 steak, baked with toma- toes, 440 Ham, 31 and eggs, recipe, 173 broiled, 566 fried, with eggs, 567 fried, recipe, 173 omelet, 642 roasted, 567 Hamburg steak, 507 Hard-pea soup, 370 Hard sauce, 149, 958 Hare, Belgian, 40 Belgian, stuffed and roasted,' 616 or rabbit (German Hasen- pfefter), 615 or rabbit braised, 614 Haricot besms (lima beans) & la maltre d'h6tel, 688 beans with onions, 689 defined, 161 mutton, 542 Harlequin sandwich, 800 Hash, beef, 518 codfish, 424 Hasenpf offer (German), 615 Hasty soup, 323 Head, calf's, baked, 575 cheese, 564 Heart, beef's, boiled, 532 calf's, baked, 630 calf's, stuffed, 629 Herbs with Parmesan, soup of, 367 Herrings, marinaded, 458 Hickory-nut cake, 830 nut candy, 982 Hoe-cake, 477 HoUandaise sauce, 486 Hominy, breakfast, boiled, 776 croquettes, 777 fried, 776 griddle cakes, 818 muffins, 790 Honeycomb cream, 951 Honigkuchen, 843 Hors d'oeuvres, 102 Horseradish, 741 sauce, 741 sauce (hot), 492 Horse's neck, 1032 Hot pot, beef, 531 Hotchpotch, Scotch, 365 Huckleberry cake, 835 griddle cakes, 815 pudding, 936 shortcake, 824 Hulled corn soup, 342 Hygienic cream sauce, 958 Ice cream, how frozen, 281 recipes, 287 apricot, 962 baked Alaska, 968 biscuit, 970 biscuit glao6, 972 biscuit tortoni, 974 Bohemian, 964 brown bread, 967 caramel, 968 chocolate, 963 chocolate mouss6, 971 coffee, 963 fish, 971 French, 965 Ice cream, fruit, 969 fruit mousse, 972 glac6 Napolitain, 965 mask, 968 Italian, 970 lemon, 962 melon, 971 Milanese, 964 mille fruit, 962 pistachio, 966 surprise melon, 972 vanilla, 963 vanilla parfait, 969 Ices, almond and ofange, 975 lemon, 976 ' lemon sherbet, 973 milk sherbet, 973 punch Lalla Rookh, 978 no2 INDEX Ices, orange sherbet, 973 Roman punch, iced, 977 sorbet of Kirsohenwasser, 977 sorbet of rum, 978 strawberry sherbet, 976 water, 974 Ice, lemon, 284 Iced coffee, 1022 Icing, boiled, 845 Charlotte' fruit, 951 chocolate water, 845 maple sugsu* frosting, 845 marshmallow frosting, 845 Indian sauce, 487 Indian griddle cakes, 816 mush, fried, 172 burdwan, 606 chutney, 900 meal pudding, boiled, 927 Inexpensive soup, 323 Information, miscellaneous, 292 Invalid, cookery for, 279, 905 apple water, 905 arrowroot jelly, 906 Invalid cookery — ^barley gruel, 905 •• barley water, 905 beef, mutton, and veal broth, 906 beef tea, 906 bread, Ught, 907 bread pudding, light, 907 . broth, beef, mutton, and veal, 906 broth, calves' feet, 908 broth, chicken, 909 broth, clear, 907 broth, mutton, 912 broth, veal, 912 broths, white with vermi- ceUi, 914 calves' feet broth, 908 calves' feet jelly, 908 chicken broth, 909 chicken minced, 909 chicken, with sauce, 909 Invalid, chicken with sip- pets, 910 eggs, 911 egg wine, 910 gruel water, 914 Itahan paste, 914 jelly, calves' feet, 908 jelly, meat, 911 jelly, orange, 912 jelly, tapioca, 913 macaroni with broth, 911 meat jelly, 911 mutton broth, 912 orange jelly, 912 panada, 913 rice, 914 sponge-cake, pudding, 913 tapioca jelly, 913 veal broth, 912 vermicelli, 914 water gruel, 914 whey, 914 white broths with vermi- celli, 914 Invalids, milk and food for ; ice cream, 281 Irish moss blancmange, 290 moss jelly, 283 sandwiches, 806 soup, or Balnaraoon skink, 332 Italian steak, 536 Irish stew, 524 Italian macaroons, 848 paste, 914 sandwiches, 805 Jambalaya (East Indian recipe), 480 Jam, 919 home made, 272 sandwiches, 804 Jellies, lemon, orange, etc., 283 JeUied fruit, 765 JeUies, 916 Jelly, arrowroot, 906 aspic, 914 cake, 837 calves' feet, 908 grape sauce, 916 INDEX 1103 Jelly, meat, 911 orange, ,912 strawberry, 916 tapioca, 913 Jellyfish cream, 956 Jenny Lind's soup, 341 Jerusalem artichokes, fri- casseed, 713 artichokes, pur6e of, 714 artichokes, stewed, 712 Jewish almond pudding, 939 sausage, or chorissa, 537 Johnny csike, or journey cake, 822 Julienne soup, 142, 323 soup, Russian, 322 Jumbles, almond, 849 peanut, 850 June tea punch, 1024 Junket, 291, 954 Kale brose, 333 Kale, Scotch, 725 Kebobbed mutton, 543 Kidney beans, 691 ox, stewed, 627 K16sse (liver), for soup, 406 Koumiss, 1025 Kuwab fowl, 605 Lady fingers, 847 Lamb, 27 ballotin of, with green peas, 546 blanquette of, 545 breast of, roasted k la Milanese, 545 broehettes, 547 buying in market, 128 chops, broiled, 549 French chops, 30 chops, fried, with Parme- san, 549 chops with champagne sauce, 547 gplgrammes with aspara- gus tips, 548 Lamb's fry, 548 Lamb, how divided by butcher, 129 minced, with poached eggs, 550 roast, time for, 192 spring, 29 Larded sweetbreads, k la flnancifere, 590 Larding, 202 Lebkuchen, 851 Leeks, 93 how to boil, 740 soup, 340 Left-over soup, 322 Leg of lamb, roasted, 544 of mutton, boiled, 539 of mutton, stuffed, 538 of pork, stuffed and roast- ed, 561 Leguminous plants, 100 Lemon and peppermint drops, 980 cake, 837 cheese cake, 843 ice, 976 ice cream, 962 jelly, 282 pie, 926 puff, 954 sauce, 149 , sauce for puddings, 959 sherbet, 973 souffle, 941 whip, 954 Lemonade, 284 egg, 1031 Lemonade for parties, 1031 orgeat, 1031 plain, 1030 seltzer, 1031 soda, 1030 Lentil soup, 386 Lentils, curried, 692 Lettuce soup, 367 soup, cream of, 350 stewed, 755 stuffed, 756 Lima beans k la poulette. no4 INDEX Lima beans (haricot beans ) , h. la m a 1 1 r e d'li6tel, 688 bean pur^e, 360 Limeade, 1027 Liquid foods, 279 Liver, calf's, and bacon, , 565, 579 calf's broiled, 578 calf's, and onions, saut^ed, 579 fried (English), 534 kl6sse (for soup), 406 sausages, Mecklenburg, 555 ^ Loaf, veal, 577 Lobster, 358, 369 k la Newburg, 997, 469 bisque of, 355 coral sauce, 881 creamed, 998 Lobster, creamed, on toast, 470 croustades, 632 devilled, 470 sauce, 485, 488 stewed in cream, 469 Loin of mutton, roasted, 543 of pork, roast, 563 Luncheon delicacy, chicken salad rolls, 889 Macaroni, 667 baked, 672 boiled, k I'ltalienne, 670 croquettes, 668 nudels, 672 soufQ6, 668 timbales, 669 with chestnuts, 671 , with broth (invalid), 911 with tomatoes, 669 and tomato soup, quickly made, 345 Macaroons, 848 Macedoine soup, 335 Mackerel, baked fresh, with oyster dressing, 431 -> baked salt, 187 boiled (German method), 430 Mackerel, broiled, 429 broiled, and tarragon but- ter, 430 caveach, 43 i Madeira sauce, 495, 624 Maltre d'hdtel butter, 495 Mangoes, cucumber, 725 atuifed, 901 Maple sugar caramel, 953 Marbled cake, 831 Marinaded herrings, 458 Marketing, 125 beef, 26 buying mutton and lamb, 27 how to select meat, etc., 23 poultry, 34 'pork, 31- Marketing^sweetbreads, 31 veal, 30 Marmalade, 919 Marron glac6, 1007 Marrow balls for consommfi, 317 Marshmailow cake, 838 Mashed beans, 690 potatoes, recipe, 155 Matelote (fish en), 414 of codflsh, 426 Matzoth soup balls, 406 May wine, 1035 Mayonnaise dressing, 857 salmon, 444 Meagre soup, 385 Measures, 292 Meat and' potato pie, 521 baking, 185 boiling, 154 broiling, 181 buying and selecting ; points to bear in mind, 23 casserole, 177 composition of,- etc., 14 composition of fresh (table), 16 constituents of, 15 INDEX n05 Meat, cooking with slow fire ; with hot fire ; in water, 24 digestibility of; compari- son and explanation, 17 effect of boiling on, 153 effect of stewing, 159 effect of salt upon, 186 extract; nutritive value slight, 19 for beef patties, 535 (force-) balls, 405 how rendered more tender, 15 how to make tender with acid, 15 jelly, 911 marketing for, selecting etc., 126 Meat, moulded, 628 roasting, 188 roasting time for, 190, 192 sandwiches, 797 smothered, 26 steaming, 26 term includes what? sea- sons for various kinds; what kinds most nutri- tious; what kinds most digestible, 22 test for boiling, 182 treatment of, after buy- ing, 23 uses of the fat, 24 vinaigrette of cold, 581 what cuts best suited for various styles of cook- ing, 23 why bread must be added to a meat diet, 16 Meats — ^bacon and calf's liver, 565 bacon and eggs, 566 baked beefsteak k la jar- diniere, 530 baked calf's head, 575 ballotin of lamb, with green peas, 546 beef, braised, pot roast, 475 Meats, beef k la mode, 515 beef balls, 526 beef fritters, 535 beef hash, 518 beef hot-pot, 531 beef's liver, breaded, 523 beef loaf, 527 beef patties, meat for, 535 beefsteak with mush- rooms, 508 beefsteak and onions, 509 Meats — beef stew with dumplings, 516 blanquette of lamb, 545 blanquette of veal, with cucumbers, 582 boiled bacon, 565 boiled beef's heart, 532 boiled calves' tongueS, 573 boiled dinner, old- fashioned, 624 boiled leg of mutton, 539 boiled sausages, with white wine, 557 boiled sweetbreads with tomato sauce, 586 braising inferior parts, 174 braised beef's tongue (No. ' 1),432 braised or smothered sweetbreads, 589 breast of lamb, braised k la Milanese, 545 breast of veal, stuffed, 572 brisket of beef, stewed, 533 broiled bacon, 565 broiled pork and Chili sauce, 551 broiled sweetbreads with stuffed tomatoes, 587 calf's brain, breaded, 574 calf's heart, baked, 630 calf's heart, stuffed, 629 calf's liver and bacon,579 1106 INDEX Meats, calf's liver and onion saut6, 579 calf's liver, broiled, 578 cliicken-and-hain pie, 529 chicken potpie, 528 corned beef, 534 creamed dried beef, 525 curried beef, 526 curried pork, 550 devilled sausages, 556 dried beef with eggs, 525 fillet of beef, braised, 533 foreign names of, 1046- 1064 and poultry pies — fowl pie, 528 Prankfott sausages, ■ 557 frioadelles of veal, 572 fricandeau of beef, 536 gravy for roast, 192 haricot mutton, 542 ham, broiled, 566 ham, fried with eggs, 567 ham, roasted, 567 Hamburg steak, 507 head cheese, 564 Irish stew, 524 Italian steak, 536 Jewish sausage, or cho- rissa, 537 lamb brochettes, 547 lamb chops, broiled, 549 lamb chops, fried with Parmesan, 549 lamb chops with cham- pagne sauce, 547 lamb epigrammes with asparagus tips, 548 lamb's fry, 548 leg of lamb, roasted, 544 leg of mutton, stuffed, 538 leg of pork, stuffed and _roasted, 561 liver, fried (English), 534 loin of pork, roast, 563 Mecklenburg liver saus- ages, 555 Meats, Mexican chile con came, 628 minced lamb with poached eggs, 550 minuten fleisch, 581 moulded meat, 628 New England pot roast, 531 olla podrida, 538 pan-broiled steak, 506 pig, sucking, roast, 559 pigs' ears, IJaked, 552 pigs' feet, boiled, 552 feet, stuffed k la P6ri- gueux, 553 pork chops, broiled, 560 pork chops, fried, 560 pork outlets, fried, 551 pot roast, 26 pot roast of beef, 522 preparing for stew, 161 rogfiut of beef, 519 r^chaufCfi of beef, &, la jar- dinifere, 526 rib roast, 513 rissoles of beef, '518 roast beef, 510 roast from the round, 512 roast veal, 571 rolled boiled beef, 530 sausages, 553 sausages, baked, 556 scalloped sweetbreads with mushrooms, 584 scalloped sweet breads, 583 shoulder of mutton, / stuffed, 540 smothered beef, 522 souse, 564 spare-rib of pork, roasted, 562 spiced pressed beef, 520 steak a, la Bordelaise, 527 stewed sweetbreadSj 587 stuffed or farcied roast beef, 513 sweetbreads, 586 INDEX n07 "Meats, sweetbreads, fried, 589 sweetbreads, larded, k la financifere, 590 sweetbreads, plain boiled, 586 sweetbreads with spa- ghetti or macaroni and tomatoes, 584 sweetbread croquettes, 588 sweetbread pattieS (vol- au-vents), 588 to broil a steak, 505 veal croquettes with mushrooms, 576 veal cutlets, breaded with tomato sauce, 568 veal cutlets, plain, 568 veal fricassee, 576 veal liver pSlt6, 583 veal loaf, 577 veal potpie, 569 vinaigrette of cold meat, 581 Wiener schnitzel, 580 Yorkshire pudding (to be eaten with roast beef), 514 meat and potato pie, 521 mutton, boiled, 156 mutton chops, broiled, 539 mutton chops, pan- broiled, 540 mutton, curried, 542 mutton cutlets and mush- rooms, 539 mutton, fillet of, braised, 541 mutton, kebobbed, 543 mutton, loin of, roasted, 543 Mecklenburg liver sausages, 555 Melon cream, 625 (musk ana canteloupe), 773 Menu, making, 115 tables, 119 Menu, terms in foreign lan- guages, 1046 Mexican chile con oarne, 628 Milanese ice cream, 964 Milk and seltzer, 1025 Milk as food for invalids, 281 biscuit, 789 digestibility of, 70 effect of gastric juices upon, 68 importance, of sterilizing; method of sterilizing, 69 nature and properties of, 67 perfect food for infant; not so for adult, 69, 70 porridge, 285, 777 soup, almond, 334 sherbet, 973 scalding to prevent turn- ing sour, 68 toast, 287, 795 why the ideal food for in- fants; examination of its elements, 7, 8 Milln fruit ice cream, 962 Minced chicken, 909 lamb with poached eggs, 550 Mince-meat pie, 924 patties, 924 Mint sauce (for young lamb), 496 Minuten fleisch, 581 Miscellaneous information, 292 Mixed diet, rules for, 110 Mixing batters and fritters, 196 Mocha cake, 826 Mock bisque, 358 terrapin soup, 395 turtle soup, 371' turtle bean soup, 380 Molasses cookies, 848 sauce, 958 Muffins, egg, 791 English, 788 no8 INDEX Muffins, Graham, 790 hominy, 790 oatmeal, 791 raised, 236 rice, 790 Sally Lunn, 790 Mulligatawny soup, 325 Mush, boiled corn-meal, 228 Indian, fried, 172 Mushrooms, Baked, 683 broiled, 679 button, stewed, 681 Mushroom catsup, 684 consomm6, with, 317 creamed, 681 escalloped, 682 omelet, 643 pickled, 685 ragoCit, 682 melon, 767 sauce, 397 soup, cream of, 344 toast, cream of, 344 with bacon, 683 and beeffeteak pie, 680 Mustard sauce, 495 Muskmelon fritters, 765 Mutton, 27 and lamb, how divided by the butcher, 29 and lamb, sheeps' heads, kidneys, liver and heart, 30 boiled, recipe, 156 boiled, caper sauce, 156 broth, 329, 912 brothj Scotch, 330 chops, broiled 539 chops, pan-broiled, 540 curried, 542 cutlets and mushrooms, 539 fillet of, braised, 541 haricot, 542 how to select, 128 kebobbed, 543 leg of, 29 loin of, roasted, 543 pie, 595 roast, 29, 192 Mutton, saddle of, 29 shoulder of, 29 Mutton, shoulder of, stuffed, 540 Southdown, 27 Names, foreign, of meats, fruits and vegetables, 1046-1064 Nectar, for dog days, 1032 Nesselrode pudding, 966 New England pot roast, 531 Noodles (see "Nudels") Nougat, 984 Nudels, buttered, 674 fritters, 675 macaroni, boiled in milk, 672-673 with Parmesan, or au gratin, 674 Nut and fruit sandwiches, 803 and tomato soup, 347 butter, 1006 butter sandwiches, 801 croquettes, or cutlets, 1008 sandwiches, 799 souffle, 1008 'Nuts, and their uses, 1005 general discussion, 275 pudding, 930 chestnuts, 1008 cocoanut, 1007 glazed, 1008 marron glac6, 1007 salted, 1007 sugared, 1007 Oats, rolled, 225 Oatmeal, 194, 224 mufilns, 791 porridge, 775 purge, 361 Scotch. 226 Oatmeal gruel, 285 Okra soup, 380, 377 Olive sauce, 497 011a podrida, 538 Omelet, 92, 93, 999 INDEX U09' Omelet, asparagus, 642 baked, 645 cheese, 642, 1001 French, 1000 fruit, 644 green corn, 642 ham, 642 mushroom, 643 nut, lOOi onion, 644 oyster, 644 plain, 641 tomato, 643 rum, 1001 Spanish, 1000 sweet, 1001 with peas, 646 Onions, 214 h. la crfeme, 735 boiled, 219 for beefsteak, etc., 738 pickled, 734, 903 plain boiled, 736 Spanish, baked, 736 stewed, 737 stuffed and baked, 737 with grated cheese, 739 and eggs, 735 cream soup, 337 omelet, 644 porridge, 735 sauce (Soubjse sauce), 500 ' • soup, simple,- 366 soup (Spanish), 327 Orangeade, 1028: Orange cake^ 838 fritters,, 8 10 jeUy, 912 prepared for invalid, 286 pudding, 936 sauce, 494, 623 sherbet, 1032-, 973 how to serye,-772 Orgeat lemon'ade, 1031 Oven, how to reduce tem- perature in, 264 Ox kidney, stewed, 627 Oxtail soup, 327 Oysters, 58 Oysters, k la Newburg, 997 and mushrooms, 377 bisque, 355 broiled, 66 broiled, in the shell, or on the half shell, 475 broiled on toast, 476 chicken stuffed with, 601 cocktail, 475 creamed, 64, 474 fried, 66, 476 gumbo, 331 how to broil without opening, 475 Old Virginia fried, 477 omelet, 444 on the half shell, 473 plant, 67S plant, creamed, 679 plant, fried, 678 panned, 64 preparing, 64 " roast " in their own liquor, 479 sauce, 499 scalloped, 65, 478 soup, Virginia, 346 stew, 65 stewed, 474 rarebit, 997 - stuffing, 603 Panada, 913 Pan-broiled mutton chops, 540 steak, 506 Pan -broiling, 183 Pancakes, 818 (k la or6me), 819 creams, 820 English, 818 French, ^20 plain, 819 snow, 821 - without eggs, 821 Paris, flsh„a la,, 415 Parisian soup, 365 Spanish soup, 364 Parmesan cheese and oys- ters, 990 1110 INDEX Parsley butter, 500 Parsnips, 212, 221 soup, 381 Partridges, baked, 616 Parsnips, boiled, 685 browned under roast meat, 686 fried, 686 >aste, brioche, 353 for common pies, 248 Blench, for meat-pies, 249 puff, 249 shortcake, 250 Pastry, 247 recipes, 250 Pat^, veal liver, 583 Patties, chicken, 593 sweetbread (vol-au-vents) , 588 Peach shortcake, 824 Peaches, sweet pickled, 904 Peanut brittle, 983 Peanut jumbles, 850 soup, 346 Pears, chipped gingered, 918 imperial, 763 sweet pickled, 904 Peas, 692, 215 boiled, 218 dried, 221 green, 695 green, a la crfeme, 696 green, to boil, 694 green, stewed, 695 omelet, with, 646 purfee of, 696 stewed, in turnip cups, 697 soup, cream of, 33« (hard-) soup, 370 (split-) soup, 381 (split-) soup (No. 2), 379 Penouchi, 983 Peppers, Creole, 759 stewed, 760 stuffed sweet, 759 Peppers, stuffed, 899 Pepper sauce, 489 Perch, fried, 464 Pfeffernuesse, 851 Pheasant, broiled, 619 PiccaUlU, 900 Pickerel, baked, 464 boned, baked, 465 Pickle relishes, 552 Pickles, green tomato sweet, 904 Pickled beets, 704 cucumbers, 728 gherkins, 902 mushrooms, 685 onions, 734, 903 pears or peaches, sweet, 904 salmon, 344 walnuts, 554 Pies, apple, 251 apple, Dutch, 922 apple dumpling, baked, 921 apple potpie, 922 apple tarts, 925 Banbury tarts, 923 beefsteak, 593 cbicken-and-ham, 529 chicken, 591 chocolate, 926 cottager's, 680 cream, 926 cream apple, 922 cream puffs, 927 currant tarts, 925 fowl, 528 giblet, 594 gooseberry, 923 gooseberry tarts, 925 green apple, 921 lemon, 252, 926 mince, 252 minoe-meat, 924 mince patties, 924 mutton, 595 paste for, 248, 249 Pies — pumpkin, 924 pumpkin or squash, 925 rdsettes, 927 salmon, 445 squash, oj" pumpkin, 925 INDEX UtS Pies, tartlets, 925 Pig, sucking, roast, 559 Pigeon, 38 Pigeons, stuffed and roasted (German method), 618 Pigs' ears, baked, 552 feet, boiled, 552 feet, stuffed k la P6ri- gueux, 553 Pigs in blankets, 180, 480 Pike, baked in sour cream (German), 462 Pineapples, 429 Piquant sauce, 486 Piqu6, meat, 202 Pistachio ice cream, 966 Plain layer cake, 829 omelets, 641 Planked flsh — shad, 434 Plate, flsh, 413 Plovers, roasted, 617 Plum pudding, Christmas, 933 Poached eggs, 634 Polenta, 691 Popovers, 199, 822 Pork, 31 Popcorn balls, 986 Pork, broiled, and Chili . sauce, 551 chops, 31 chops, broiled, 560 chops, fried, 560 curried, 550 cutletSi fried, 551 indigeetlbility, 31 leg of, stuffed and roastedj 561 loin of, roast, 563 - selecting in market, 130 spare-rib of, roasted, 562 Porridge, 224 milk, 285, 777 oatmeal, 775 onion, 735 Port wine sauce, 499, 623 Porterhouse steak, 27 Portuguese soup, 400 Potpie, apple, 922 Pot au feu, 401 Potpie, chicken, 528 veal, 569 Pot roast, 26 roast. New England, 531 roast of beef, 522 roast, recipe, 175 Potato balls, brown, 217 balls, fried, 649 balls surprise, 217 basket, 651 cakes, 647 chowder, 397 cream of, 344 croquettes, 659 croquettes, sweet, 658 dressing for duck, 503 fritters, 660 pulf, 650 ribbons, 660 rice, '658 souffle, 651 sweet, souffle, 652 (browned) soup, 378 (savory) soup, 378 Potatoes, k la orfeme, 661 au gratin, 649 baked, 650, 215 boiled, 653 boiled in their jackets, 654 boiled, recipe, 155 ' broiled, 655 ' browned, mashed, 647 ' browned under a roast- ing joint, 655 - Casserole, 659 cooking, peeling, etc., 209 creamed, 217 discussion of, 98 French, fried, 648 Potatoes — fried raw, 649 fried, recipe, 171 German, fried, 655 hashed brown, 656 Lyonnaise, 647 mashed, 652 mashed, recipe, 155 Saratoga chips, 656 sautfid, 170 Itl2 INDEX Potatoes, scalloped, 658 selecting according lo size; washing, 211 Southern sweet, 217 steamed, 195 stuffed, 648 sweet» and apples, 657 sweet, au gratiii, 657 sweet, esoalloped, 657 what sort to boil, 99 with white sauce, 653 Poulette, cod tongues, 429 Poultry — ^baked chicken, 596 baked fried chicken, 597 capon, roasted with cream stuffing, 604 carving, 1017 chicken curry, 599 chicken en casserole, 600 chicken stuffed with oys- ters, 601 chicken terrapin, 598 chicken timbades, 601 cleaning, 36 drawing, 35 fricasseed chicken, 599 fried chicken, 596 hanging up; picking and scalding, 34 Indian burdwan, 606 killing a fowl, 34 kuwai) fowl, 605; pa,t$s,,of foies gras, 61-3 pilad of chicken, 600 pressed chicken, 598 • roast turkey, .602 Poultry — T6li de pauvre homme, 605 scalloped chipken, 597 selecting-, ' 34' treatment of; before kill- ing, 33- trussing>'3& Pound oates 841 Preserves, 272 Pressed spiced beef, 520 Prime ribs of beef, 27 Prune sauce, 958 sauce for puddii^g, 958 Prunes, stewed, 774 Puddings, 256 apple mange, 947 apple meringue, 937 apple, or other fruit soufil6, 940 apple pudding (English), 928 apple snow. No. 1, 944 apple snow, No. 2, 948 apple tapioca, 261, 935 apricot custard, 946 arrowroot souffle, 940 baked batter, 939 baked custard, ,945 baked rice, 260 baked sago, 937 batter, 258 blackberry, 936 boiled custard, 945- boiled Indian-meal, 927 Boston delight, 934 bread, 261 bread custard, 938 brown bread, 938 caramel, 942 Charlotte russe, 944 cherry, 936 , . chocolate, 936 cracker raisin, 934 date, 935 floating island; 946 frozen custard, M6 ■ frozen plum, .947 ■ frozen flg< 970 Puddings-Jbreadiilislit.- ^0-1 ohiokett aM j!ice',r€.<)3.- ., ■ Christmas plimi, 933. • cloth, never wash -with sbdp,. aeo -.^ corn, 699 cottage, 928 flavoring, 258 . fruit, roly-poly, 932' gooseberry, 929 ground ficfr soufllfi, 941 gruetz, 929 heavenly hash, 943 huckleberry, 936 . '., INDEX 11)3 Puddings, Indian tapioca, 260 Jewisli almond, 939 lemon souffle, 941 meat, extra care necessary, 259 nut, 284 orange, 936 plum, keeping for months, 259 Polish, 932 preparing ingredients, 258 rice, 935 rice. No. 2, 936 Rotterdam, 931 rum, 931 Russian taganrok, 947 sauces (see "Sauces"), 148 snow eggs, 944 snow, 943 sponge-cake',' 913 steamed, 257 steamed Graham, 934 strawberry, 948 suet, 929 tapioca custard, 943 Wesselrode, 966 Puffs, egg-plaiit, 705 Pulled bread, 779 Purge, Bak^d; 697 carrot, 360 green pea, 359 lima bean, 360 oatmieal, 361 Purge of chestnuts, 757 of turnips, 753 of Jerusalem artichokes, 714 of peas, 696 of spitiach, with butter, 732 red' bean, 359 tomato, 368 tomato and green pea, 362 tomato; and green pea without stock. (No. 2),, 363 tomato with macaroni, 361 Quails, roast, 619 trussing of, 619 Queen soup, 335 vermicelli soup, 340 Quenelle soup, 360 Quick rolls, 783 Rabbit, 41 or hare (German hasen- pfeffer), 615 or hare, braised, 614 Radish, 741 Ragodt, beef, 519 defined, 161 mushroom, 682 Raisin sauce, 928 Range, essentials for a good, 133 management of, 131 Raspberry shortcake, 824 Rgchauffg of beef Ji la jar^ dini^re, 526 Red bean purge, 359 tomato soup;' 376' red snapper, baked, 455 snapper, boiled, 455 snapper soup, 395 snapper, steamed, 454 RelisHeti, flsh, 836 pickle, 899 RhiiWarb,'-' steamed, 228 stewed, 771 water, 284 wine, 1041 Rib roast, 5'13 Ricardo sauce fdr game, 625 Rice, 225 and tomato soup, 387 boiled, plain, 661 boiled with milk, 661 Gredre; 663 croquettes, 662 East IndJj5^ri method, 663 for invalid', 914 fritters, 665 gems, 792 griddle cakes, 816 rice muflQns, 790 pudding, 935, 9^6 pudding, chicken and, 603 nt4 INDEX Rice, risotto, 662 soup (savory), 377 souffle, 666r, steamed, 226 Risotto, 662 Rissoles of beef, 518 of fish, 414 Roast beef, 510 beef, recipe, " dont's," 190 beef, stuffed or farcied, 513 canvas-back ducks, 608 capon, vnth cream stuff- ing, 604 chestnuts, 759 corn (old-fashioned), 702 ham, 567 Roasting ears, 700 process, 188 meat, time for, 190 goose, 611 grouse, 621 gravy for, 192 lamb, time for, 192 leg of lahib, 544 loin of mutton, 543 loin of pork, 563 mutton, 192 oysters (in their ovn^ liquor), 479 Roasting pig, sucking, 559 plovers, 617 quails, 619 round, 512 ruddy ducks, 609 spare-rib of pork, 562 teal, 610 turkey, 602 veal, 571 veal, , time for, 192 venison (German recipe), 621 woodcock, 622 Roe croquettes, 436 Rolls, breakfast, 786 currant, 783 English breakfast, 789 Graham, 787 Parker House, 787 Rolls, quick, 783 Rolled boiled beef, 530 oats, 225 Roly-poly fruit pudding, 932 Roman punch, iced, 977 Root beer, 1026 Roots and tubercles, 98 Rosettes, 927 ROti de pauvre homme, 605 Rotterdam pudding, 931 Roux for thickening sauces, 501 Ruddy ducks, roast, 609 Rum cake, 839 pudding, 931 Rusk, 784 Russian cream, 955 Russian Julienne soup, 324 punch tart, 843 Russian sandv\riches, 799 zakouski, 898 Rye bread, 781 griddle cakes, 814 Sago pudding, baked, 937 soup, cream of, 339 soup, 143 soup (Hawaiian recipe), . 366 Sago soup without meat, 387 Salads, 237 anchovy, 886 apple-and-celery, 896 apple-and-cress, 896 apple-and-nut, 892 apple-and-pineapple, 890 artichoke, 872 asparagus, 874 asparagus-and-oucumber, 891 asparagus-and-shrimp , 877 baked banana, 891 banana and orange, 894 bean, 864 bean and beet, 876 beef, 889 beet, farci, 876 INDEX tits Salads, Brunswick, 8'75 cabbage, 876 California flg, 893 cauliflower, in red-pepper cases, 868 celery, 894 cherry, 894 cheese, 895 chestnut, 895 chicken, 887 chicory, 865 ohiffonade, 871 cold slaw, 869 crab, 881 crab (same as lobsler No. 3), 880 crab-and-tomato, 882 cucumber, 870 cucumber-and-tomato, 864 currant, 893 daisy, 877 dandelion, 870 egg with sardine mayon- naise, 877 endive, with winter, 862 fish, ornamental, 885 French, 871 French bean-and-celery, 873 frozen tomato,' 868 fruit, 893 German, 872 German potato, 875 Independence Day (No. 1), 864 Independence Day (No. 2), 865 ItaUan, 878, 887 lettuce, 240 lettuce, German recipe, 862 lettuce, 866 lettuce-and-tomato, 864 lettuce lemon, 863 lettuce, with egg dress- ing, 863 lobster, 241 lobster (No. 1), 879 lobster (No. 2), 879 Salads, lobster (No. 3), 880 lobster, dressing for, 880 lobster coral sauce, dressing, 881 Macedoine,.873 Manhattan, 888 meat, 240 mint lemon, 863 nasturtium, 869 ornamental flsh, 885 oyster, 883 i pea, 878 pimola-and-oheese, 865 pineapple, 890 plain egg, 877 poet's recipe for, 854 potato, 241, 875 rainbowj 868 raspberry cream, 891 rules for, 238 Russian, 886 salsify, 879 salmon mayonnaise, 884 salmon, moulds, 883 sardine, 884 sardine, or Saxon, 886 Saxon, 886 scallop, 883 shadroe, 884 shrimp-and-tomato aspic, 882 sorrel, 873 spinach, 871 summer, 861 surprise, 863 Swedisli, 885 sweetbreads-and-oucum- ber, 870 sweetbreads with celery, 889 tarragon, fruit, 890 tirabale of chicken mayon- naise, 887 tomato, 241 tomato-and-corn, 867 tomato-and-peanut, 867 tomato baskets with cu- cumber jelly, 866 tomato jelly, 867 Ilf6 INDEX Salads, tomato, with whipped oream, 868 truffle, 874 vegetable, 242 vegetable, in jelly, 878 Waldorf, 895 walnut, 895 whales, 866 and relisches, 854 Salad-dressings, 242, 855 stir ingredients oarefuUy; 237 boiled, 239, 859 boiled, Mrs. Hotchkin'Sj 860 creant', 858 oream, boiled, 859 Dr. Kitchener's recipe, 244 for lobsler salad, 880 French, 855 French (No. 2), 857 ItaUan, 855 lemon, 856 mayonnaise, 857 mayonnaise cream, 858 Salad-dressing, orange, 856 sauce, Ji la Lowry, 246 sour cream, 858 sweet, 855 tarragon vinegar for, 859 whipped cream, 858 without oil, 243 Salad rolls, chicken, 889 Sally Lunni 784 muffins, 790 Salmi, defined, 161 duck, 610 Salmon bisque, 354 boiled, 441 broiled smoked, 444 curry of, 443 mayonnaise, 444 on toast, 445 pickled, 444 pie, 445 scallop of, 446 trout, baked, 442 trout, boiledi 443 Salt, lOi effect on meat, 186 Salts — ^kinds of; way we salt food, 12 cod, tid-bits, 428 cod, with brown butter, 419 mackerel, baked, 187 Sandwiches : Adelaide, 803 anchovy, 807 brunette, 806 cheese, 798 chicken, 798 egg, 798 fish, 801 Harlequin, 800 Irish, 806 ■ Italian, 805 jam, 804 meat, 797 nut-and-fruit, 803 nut-butter, 801 nut, 799 Russian, 799 salmon, 802 Sandwiches — sardine, 802 supper, 804 tutti-frutti, 800 watercress, or other salads, 803 Sardine fritters ( German ) , 456 sauce, 489 Sauce, 146 k la Lowry, 246 allemande, 487 almond, for pudding, 959 brain, 574 brown sugar, 149 caper, 156 Chili, 904 custard, 943 foamy, 148 for pudding, 148 golden, 958 hard, 149 hard, 958 hygienlo oream, 958 INDEX J»7 Sauce, lemon, 149 lemon, for pudding, 959 lobster-coral, 881 Madeira, 624 molasses, 958 orange, 623 piquante, for roast beef, 494 port wine, 623 prune, 958 shrimp, for baked bass, 454 Spanish, 624 supreme, 488 sweet, for pudding, 960 thickening for, 147 tomato, for casserole; 178 truffle, 761 Sauces (for fish) , allemande, 487 cheese, 490 court-bouillon (for boil- ing fish), 484 cream, 489 cucumber, 491 Sauces — dressing for baked fish, 490 egg, 490 Hollandaise, 486 India, 487 ■lobster, 485, 488 pepper, 489 piquant, 486 sardine, 489 shad-roe, 490 shrimp, 489 simple sauce for steamed or boiled flsh, 487 suprfeme, 488 tarlare (for broiled flsh), 485 tomato, 485 tomato tartare, 489 Sauces (for game), Madeira, 624 orange, 494 orange, 623 port wine, 623 Ricardo, 686 Sauces, shikaree (for duck and wildfowl), 625 Spanish, 624 | Sauces (for meats), an- chovy, 494 Bechamel, 495 Bernaise, 500 bread, ,501 brown, 493 caper, for mutton, 501 champagne, for ham, 498 chestnut, for turkey or chicken, 496 chicken, for sweetbread, 498 chive, 497 currant jelly, 497 drawn butter, 491, 492 Gspagnole, 496 horseradish (hot), 492 Madeira, 495 maitre d'hfltel butter, 495 mint (for young lamb), 496 Sauces — mushroom, 497 mustard, 495 olive, 497 onion (Soubise sauce), 500 oyster, 499 parsley butter, 500 piquante, for roast beef, 494 port wine, 499 roux (for thickening), 501 Soubise (onion sauce), 500 tomato, 498 velout6, 492 velout6 with claret, 492 vinaigrette, 492 white, 493 Sauces (for puddings), al- mond, 959 cream, 957 -currant jelly, 957 custard, 957 duohesse, 957 IliS INDEX Sauces, foaming, 957 golden, 958 hard, 958 hygienic cream, 958 lemon sauce for puddings, 959 molasses, 958 prune sauce for puddings, 958 Sauerkraut, how to dress, 722 how to make, 723 Sausages, 32, 553 baked, 556 boiled, with white wine, 557 devilled, 556 Frankfort, 557 fried, i72 Jewish, or Chorissa, 537 Mecklenburg liver; 555 Saut^ing, 170 Savory potato soup, 378 Savory rice soup, 377 "Scalding" water, 150 Scallops and eggs, 472 Scallop of salmon, 446 Scalloped asparagus, 709 chicken, 597 fish, 411 oysters, 478 shad-roe, 486 sweetbreads with mush- rooms, 584 sweetbreads, 583 tomatoes and potatoes, 746 Schnitzel, Wiener, 580 Scotch hotchpotch, 365 Scotch kale, 725 mutton broth, 330 Scrambled eggs, 635 Scrapple, fried, recipe, 172 Seasoning vegetables, 156 Seasons of the year for eating various meats, 22 / for kinds of flsh, 55, etc. Sea-urchins, 766 , Seidlitz water, bottled, 1026 Seltzer lemonade, 1031 Shad, baked, 432 broiled, 434 creamed, 433 planked, 52 roe, creamed, with mush- rooms, 436 roe, fried, 434 roe sauce, 490 roe, scalloped, 436 Sheep's head, 30 head k la Creole, 457 tongue in aspic, 627 Shellfish, 58 (see also flsh) Sheipbet, lemon, 284 orange, 1032 Shikaree sauce (for duck and. wild fowl), 625 Shirred eggs, 640 Shortbread, Scotch, 785 Shortcake, 823 cake paste, 250 steaks, 27 Shoulder of mutton, stuffed, 540 Shrimps, 472, 489 and mushrooms, 473 Shrimp gumbo, 397 sauce for baked bass, 454 Silver cake, 829 Sirloin of beef, 27 ■ Skink, Balnamoon, or Irish soup, 332 Smelts, baked, 446 fried, 447 stuffed, 447 \ Smoked salmon, broiled, 444 Smothered beef, 522 meat, 26 Snails, edible, 480 Snapper, red, baked, 455 red, boiled, 455 red, soup, 395 red, steamed, 454 Snapping turtle, fricasseed, 468 Snaps, ginger, 849 INDEX JJJ9 ^ Snipe, cooked (German fashion), 620 Snow cake, 830 eggs, 944 pudding, 943 'Soda, scones, Scotcli, 785 Soft-olam chowder, 392 shell crabs, boiled, 470 shell crabs, fried, 471 Sole, mieted (S, I'ltalienne), 459 Sorbetof kirschenwasser, 977 of rum, 978 Sorrel soup, 377 cream of, 343 Soubise sauce (onion sauce), 500 Soup balls (matzoth), 406 stock, 135, 300 (See also " Stock.") Soups, thickenings for, 147 k la Grecque, 344 almond milk, 334 American, 383 apple, 404 baked-be?,n, 3»2 bean, 382 bean and tomato,. 379 beef (French method), 144 beef and chicken stock, 308 beef bouillon, 809 beef, 310 tea (No. 1 and 2), 311 beer (German method), 402 bisque of crabs, 356 bisque of halibut (No. 1), 353 bisque of lobster, 355 bouillabaisse, 400 browned potato, 378 brunoise, 312 calf's foot consommg, 314 carrot, 377 carrot pur6e, 360 cheese bisque, 357 chicken, quickly made, 312 Soups, chicken, with leeks and onions, 312 chicken, bisque, 353 chicken cream, 34i chicken gumbo, 330 chicken gumbo, with oys- ters, 331 cider, 404 clam bisque, 352 clam chowder, 391 clear, with noodles, 313 cocoanut, 370 cock-a-leekie, 366 Colbert consomme, 318 Soups — consommS, Ji I'imp- 6ratrice, 318 consomme almond, 314 consommS amber, 314 consommg chestnut, 319 consomme curry, 319 consomme printanifere, 321 consommg royal, 320 consomme spinach, 319 consomme with asparagus tips, 316 consomme with Brussels sprouts, 316 consomme with cucum- ber, 316 consomme with egg balls, 315 consomme with mush- rooms, 317 consomme with tomato blocks, 320 consomme, with vermi- ceUi, 317 corn bisque, 357 corn chowder, 398 court bouillon, 400 crab, 396 cranberry, 384 Crecy, 321 cream, 334 cream cheese (No. 1 and 2), 336 cream of asparagus, 350 cream of barley, 343 cream of beef, 338 n20 INDEX Soups, cream of cabbage, 345 cream of cavlifflower, 351 cream 6f celery, 351 cream of chestnuts, 349 cream lof green peas, 351 cream of lettuce, 350 cream of mushroom, 344 cream of pea, 338 cream of potato, 344 cream of sago, 339 cream of sorrel, 343 cream of spinach, with egg balls, 348 cream of turnip, 339 cream of watercress, 341 aried bean, 369 duchesse, 334 duchesse, consomme, 318 eel, 396 egg, 144, 387 egg balls, 348 EngUsh beef, 321 family, 369 farmer's chowder, 374 fish, 395 flsh, chowder, 389 Flemish, 368 French, 369 French fisherman's chow- der, 392 fruit, 403 frijole, 385 game, 399 giblet, 322 green-pea pur6e, 359 gumbo fil6e, 332 hard-pea, 370 hasty, 323 herb, with Parmesan, 367 hulled corn, 342 Inexpensive, 323 Irish, or Balnamoon skink, 332 Jenny Lind's, 341 julienne, 142, 323 kale brose, 333 leek, 340 left-over, 325 lentil, 386 lettuce, 367 Soups^lima^bean purge, 360 Macedoine, 335 marrow balls for con- somme, 317 meagre, 385 moefe bisque, 358 mock teijrapin, 395 mock turtle, 371 moek turtle, bean, 380 mulligatawny, 325 nut-and-tomato, 347 oatmeal piu-^e,. 3,61 okra, 377, 380, onion, simple, 366 onion (Spanish), 327 onion cream, 337 oxtail, 327 oyster bisque, 355 oyster gumbo, 331 Parisian-Spanish, 364 Parisian,. 365 parsnip, 381- peanut, 346 Portuguese, 400 pot au feu, 401 potato chowder, 397 queen, 335 queen vermicelli, 340 quenelle, 364 red bean pur^e, 359 red-snqpper, 395 red tomato, ^76 rice and, tomato, 387 r Russian julienne, 324 sago, 143 sago (Hawaiian recipe), 366 sago, without meat, 387 salmon bisque, 354 savory potato, 378 savory rice, 377 Scotch hotchpotch, 365 Scotch mutton broth, 330 shrimp gTimbo, 397 soft-clam chowder, 393 sorrel, 377 spinach, 374 split-pea, 379 split-pea (NO. 2)', 381 squash, 386 INDEX »W. Soups, succotash, 375 terrapin, 393 tomato, 142 tomato bisque, 358 . tomato cream (Nos. i and 2), 337 tomato purge, 363 tomato purge with mac- aroni, 361 tomato and bean soup, 375 tomato and green corn, 143 tomato and green-pea purge, 362 tomato and green-pea purge, without stock (No. 2), 363 tomato and macaroni, quiclsly made, 345 turkey, 373 turtle, 394 vegetable, 141 velvet, 342 velvet, malgre, 365 * Virginia oyster, 346 white bean, 373 Souse, 564 Spanish onions, baked, 736 onion soup, 327 sauce, 624 Spare-rib of pork, roasted, 562 ' Spiced pressed beef, 520 tomatoes, 905 Spinach, 214, 221 as greens, 730 consommg, 3l9 cream of, with egg-balls, 348 eggs, and, 639 German mode of cooking, 730 how to serve, 729 purge of, with butter, 732 soup, 374 with eggs, 731 SpUt-pea soup, 379 , soup (No, 2), 381 Sponge cake, 839 cake, pudding, 913 SpringerleSj 850 , Sprouts, Brussels, 719 Brussels, sautg, 720 Squab; 39 Squash, summer, how to cook, 733 -, winter, boiled, 733 Squash; soup, 386 Squirrel, 40 , Starches and sugars, 11; Steak, carving of round, ax^ rump, 1014 a, la Bordelaise, 527 broiled, recipe, 183 halibut, k la Flajmande, 440 halibut, baked with toma- toes, 440 Hamburg, 507 how to broil, 505 Italian, 536 : pan-broiled, 506 venison, broiled, fi21 Steamed' red snapper, 454 Steaming/ meat, 26 process, 193 Stew, Irish, 524 Stewed apples, 769 apples, in whiskey, 768 beef, recipe, J^62 brisket of beef, 533 , button mushrooms, 68.1 carrots in cream, 709 celery (h la orfeme), 7p,6 chestnuts, 758 codfish, 427 cucumbers, 727, lettuce, 755 onions, 737 ox kidney, 627 peas in turnip cups, 697 peppers, 760 prunes, 774, rhubarb, 771 sweetbreads, 587 tomatoes, 744 tomatoes and corn, 745 ,It22 INDEX Stewed turnips (k la Franoalse), 753 Stewing, meat prepared for, 161 process, 158 process and effects, 158 vegetables with meat, 161 Stock, for consommg, 308 for soup, 135 Stock, from bones, 307 Stove, blacking, 133 Strawberry croquettes, 766 cups, 766 jelly, 916 pudding, 948 sherbet, 976 shortcake, 824 Stuffed anchovies, 896 artichokes, 713 and baked onions, 737 and roasted Belgian hare, 616 and roasted leg of pork, 561 and roasted pigeons (Ger- man method), 618 breast of veal, 572 cabbage, 720 calf's heart, 629 cucumber, 726 leg of mutton, 538 lettuce, 756 mangoes, 901 or farcied roast of beef, 513 peppers, 899 sea bass, 452 shoulder of mutton, 540 smelts, 447 sweet peppers, 759 tomatoes, 748 tomatoes with chicken salad, 749 tomatoes, with meat or flsh, 748 turnips, large, 754 Stuffing, chestnut, 603 of chestnuts for pig, sucking, 561 oysters, 603 String beans (cream sauce), 687 beans boiled, 686 beans with gravy, 687 Sturgeon, 466 Suet pudding, 929 Sugar (burnt), for sauces and soups, 407 Sugar, how many " cups " to the pound, etc., 292 Summer salads, 861 squash, how to cook, 733 Sunshine cake, 827 Surprise Balls, 217 melon, 972 Swanenhalse, 853 Sweetbreads, 31, 586 k la crSme, 996 braised or smothered; 589 boiled, with tomato sauce, 586 broiled, with stuffed toma- toes, 587 fried, 589 larded, k la flnancifere, 590 scalloped, 583 scalloped, with mush- rooms, 584 stewed, 587 with spaghetti or maca- roni and tomatoes, 584 Sweetbread croquettes, 588 patties (vol-au-vents), 588 Sweetbread sautd, 995 Sweet pickles, green toma- •toe, 904 pickled pears or peaches, 904 Sweet potatoes and apples, 657 potatoes, au gratin, 657 potatoes, escalloped, 657 potato croquettes, 658 potato soufQ^, 652 Swiss cabbage, 725 Swiss cream, 949 Syrup, caramel, 201 INDEX H23 Table, average cost of ma- terial used in cooking, 294 "Tablespoonful," as meas- ure, 293 Taffy, plain, 981 Tapioca custard, 943 jelly, 913 Tarragon vinegar for salad dressings, 859 Tart, gooseberry, 771 Tartare sauce (for broiled fish), 485 Tchai (Russian), 1023 Tea, 207 hot, cold, 1023 never should be boiled, 280 punch (June), 1024 qualities and effects, 280 recipe, 286 Russian, 1023 tchai (Russian), 1023 Teal ducks, broiled, 609 roast, 610 " Teaspoonful," 293 Tenderloin of beef, 27 ■Terras used in cooking, 1046-1064 Terrapin, 999 chicken, 598 how to dress, 466 (mock) soup, 395 soup, 393 stewed, 467 Thanksgiving surprise, 839 Thickenings, for sauces, gravies, and soups, 147 Tidbits, salt cod, 428 Timbales, chicken, 601, 631 Time for roasting meat, 190 Time-table for broiling, 184 for cooking, 295 Toast, 282, 286 buttered, 793 cheese, 797 cream, 795 creamed, 1002 fried or French, 795 German, 7?3 Toast, milk, 795 mushroom, creamed, 796 oyster, 796 salmon on, 445 tomato, 751 Tomatoes, 742, 746 Tomatoes, baked with eggs, 747 curried, with okra, 743 curried with rice, 743 eggs with, 638 French, 752 fried, recipe, 171 fried, 749 green, fried, 750 scalloped, and potatoes, 746 spiced, 905 stewed, 219, 744 stewed, and corn, 745 stuffed, 748 stuffed, with chicken salad, 749 stuffed, with meat or flsh, 748 with aspic jelly, 751 Tomato and bean soup, 375 and green corn soup, 143 and green pea pur^e, 362 and green pea pur^e with- out stock (No. 2), 363 and macaroni soup, quick- ly made, 345 (bean and) soup, 379 bisque, 358 catsup, 904 cream soup, Nos. 1 and 2, 337 nut and, soup, 347 omelet, 643 pur^e, 363 purfie with macaroni, 361 (red) soup, 376 sauce, 485, 498 sauce for casserole, 178 soufQ6, 752 soup, 142 tartare, 489 toast, 751 sweet pickles, green, 904 im INDEX Tongue, beef's braised, 532 beef, fillets, saut^ed, 629 calf's boiled, 573 sheep's, in aspic, 627 Tongues, cod poulette, 429 Tongues, cod with black buttgpsauce, 429 cod, with egg sauce, 428 Tough meat made tender with acid, 15 Tripe i la Creole, 995 i la poulette, 995 Truffle, 760 sauce, 761 Truffles aux champsigne, 762 with eggs, 762 Trussing, 36 of quails, 619 Tubercles, 98 Turbot k la cr6me, 451 fllletr452 Turkey, bread for,, 603 carving, 1017 hen preferable, 33 roast, 602 soup, 373 Turkeys, 37 Turnips, 213 and potatoes, 755 boiled, 22,0 fried, 754 large, stuffed, 754 pur^e of, 753 soup, cream of, 339 Turnips, stewed, S, la Fran- eaise, 753 Turtle, mock, soup, 371 mock, bean, 380 soup, 394 Tutti-frutti sandwich, 800 Unfermented bread, 779 Vanilla ice cream, 963 , parfait, 969 Veal, 30 blanquette of, with cu- cumbers, 582 breast of, stuffed, 572 Veal broth, 912 croquettes, with mush- rooms, 576 cutlets, 31 cutlets, breaded, with tomato sauce, 568 cutlets, plain, 568 fricadelles of, 572 fricassee, recipe, 164 fricassee, 576 how divided by butcher, 30 kidney, sautd, -994 liver pkt6, 583 . loaf, 577 not very nutritious meat, 16 potpie, 569 roast, 571 roast, time for, 192 shoulder of, boned, 204 Vegetables, artichokes k I'ltalienne, 714 artichokes, fried, 712 artichokes, Jerusalem, fricasseed, 713 artichokes, stewed in gravy, 712 artichokes, stuffed, 713 asparagus i la cr6me, 711 baked egg and tomatoes, 750 baked egg-plant, 705 baked mushrooms, 683 baked pur6e, 697 baked Spanish onions, 736 beans, fricasseed, 690 mashed, 690 be'ets, 702 boiled, 704 beet greens, with young beets, 703 boiled asparagus, 710 boiled cabbage, 722 boiled carrots, 708 baked cauliflower, 715 boiled celery, 706 boiled parsnips, 685 INDEX n25 Vegetables, boiled winter 8quash,733 boiling, 155 Boston baked beans, 692 broiled green corn, 702 broiled mushrooms, 679 Vegetables — Brussels sprouts, 719 sautd, 720 cabbage, ^ la Lilloise, 721 cabbage and bacon, 718 cabbage, how to keep fresh, 721 carrots, how to drfess in the German way, 709 carrots, ii la Flamande, 707 cauliflower, au gratin, 716 cauliflower, boiled with butter sauce, 715 cauliflower, how to cook, 714 cauliflower in cheese, 718 cauliflower with stufQng, 717 cauliflower with tomato sauce, 717 celery, how to dress, 706 celery, how to fry, 707 chestnuts, compOte of, 758 chestnuts, purge of, 757 cliestnuts, roasted, 759 . chestnuts, stewed, 758 common, preparing to cook, 223 cooking in water, 209 cottager's pie, 680 corn, 698 corn fritters, 699 corn pudding, 699 creamed beets, 704 creamed cabbage, 719 creamed corn, 700 creamed mushrooms, 681 cucumbers, k la poulette, 727 cucumbers, how to dress, 729 cucumber mangoes, 725 Vegetables, curried lentils, 692 curried tomatoes with okta, 743 curried tomatoes with rice, 743 egg-plant puffs or fritters, 705 egg-plant, stuffed with nuts, 705 endive, dressed, 756 escalloped cauliflower, 715 escalloped corn, 698 escalloped mushrooms, 682 '' fagadu bradu, 732 ' foreign names of, 1046- 1064 French beans k la maitre d'hetel, 687 French tomatoes, 752 fricasseed asparagus, 711 fried corn, 701 fried egg-plant, 705 fried tomatoes, 749 green corn omelet, 701 green corn soufQfi, 700 green peas, k la crfeme, 351 green peas, to boil, 694 green tomatoes, fried, 750 grilled tomatoes, 746 haricot beans (lima beans) k la maitre d'hfltel, 688 haricot beans, with onions, 689 horseradish, 745 horseradish sauce, 745 Jerusalem artichokes stewed, 712 I kidney beans, 691 leeks, 739 leeks, how to boil, 740 lettuce, stewed, 755 lettuce stuffed, 756 lima beans k la poulette, 689 mushroom catsup, 684 mushroom ragofit, 682 1(26 INDEX Vegetables, mushrooms with bacon, 683 mushroom and beefsteak pie, 680 onions, S, la orfeme, 645 onions and eggs, 735 onions for beefsteak, etc., 738 onions porridge, 735 onions, stuffed and baked, 737 onions, with grated cheese, 739 oyster-plant, 678 oyster-plant, creamed, 679 * oyster-plant, fried, 678 parsnips browned under roast meat, 686 parsnips, fried, 686 peas, 692 peas, -green, 694 peas, green, stewed, 695 peppers, Creole, 759 percentage of water in, 99 pickled beets, 704 pickled cucumbers, 728 pickled mushrooms, 685 pickled onions, 734 plain boiled onions, 736 polenta, 691 purge of Jerusalem arti- chokes, 714 pur6e of peas, 696 radish, 741 recipes, 647 roasted corn (old-fash- ioned), 702 roasting ears, 700 rules for cooking, 222 sauerkraut, how to make, 723 scalloped asparagus, 709 scalloped tomatoes and potatoes, 746 Scotch kale, 725 seasoning, 156 soup, 141 spinach, as greens, 730 Vegetables, spinach, German mode of cooking, 730 spinach, how to serve, 729 spinach, pur^e of, with butter, 732 spinach with eggs, 731 stewed button mushrooms, 681 stewed carrots in cream, 709 stewed celery (5, la cr6me), 706 stewed cucumbers, 727 stewed onions, 737 stewed peas in turnip- cups, 697 stewed peppers, 760 stewed tomatoes, 744 stewed tomatoes and corn, 745 string beans, boiled, 686 string beans (cream sauce), 687 string beans with gravy, 687 stufCed cabbage, 720 stuffed cucumber, 726 stuffed sweet peppers, 759 stuffed tomatoes, 746 succotash, 699 summer squash, how to cook, 733 Swiss cabbage, 725 take longer to cook in winter, 213 tomatoes, 742 tomatoes, baked with eggs, 747 tomatoes, stuffed with chicken salad, 749 tomatoes, stuffed with meat or flsh, 748 tomatoes with aspic jelly, 751 tomato toast, 751 tomato souffle, 752 truffles, 760 INDEX tI27 Vegetables, truffle sauce, 761 truffles aux champagne, 762 truffles with eggs, 762 turnips and potatoes, 755- turnips, fried, 754 turnips, puree of, 753 turnips, large, stuffed, 754 turnips, stewed {k la Frangaise), 753 vegetable cutlets, 716 vermicelli k la reine, 677 vermicelli with milk, 677 winter squash, boiled, 733 Vegetarianism, 106 Vegetarian coffee, 1022 / fruit course, 766 Velout6 sauce with claret, 492 Velvet cream, 950 molasses candy, 982 soup, 342 soup maigre, 365 Venison, 340 roast (German recipe), 621 steaks, broiled, 621 when in season, 32 Vermicelli, 676 (Invalid), 914 k la Reine, 677 consommS with, 317 soup, queen, 340 with broiled chicken, 676 with milk, 677 Vinaigrette of cold meat, 581 sauce, 492 Violette cake, 829 Virginia oyster soup, 346 Wafers, walnut, 850 Waffles, rice, 812 Walnut wafers, 850 Walnuts, pickled, 900 Water containing salt or sugar, hard to boil, 153 Walnuts, gruel, 914 ice, lemon, 284 Water — ^ices, 974 Water-toast, 287 Water — ^when not to use after boiling, 151 Watercress, cream of, 340 or other salad, sandwich, 803 Watermelon pickle, 903 Welsh rarebit, 987 rarebit, 986 rarebit, 1002 rarebit without ale, 987 Wheat — varieties and quali- ties, 229 bread, whole, 779 cakes, 813 Wheatena gruel, 285 Whey, 914 Whipped cream, 952 White broths with vermi- , celll, 914 sauce, 493 White bean-soup, 373 Whitebait, dressed, 461 Whiting aux fines herbes (English), 463 Wiener schnitzel, 580 Wine, grape, 1040 May, 1035 rhubarb, 1041 Winter squash, boiled, 733 Woodcock, roast, 622 Yeast — ^nature and action of; home-made and manufactured, 532- 533 ordinary, and brewers, 230 Yorkshire pudding (to be eaten with roast beef), 514 Zakouski, Russian, 898 Zwieback, 796 kMi^uZ-uL ^--^A ^--^^ ^,. -iiiA- // .^....:: ytj^t.^'t / / -"1 A^-^y-^'-A-u^ >« /.<^'S Pei?« laaajon Drying To dry peralmuons, tha a :ln is care- fully peelad off and the atsm is tlai to a strii^. Th«y are hung out In the sun for tha first wfek or waek and a half. When thay hare reached a certain stag®, they are brought Inside to continue tha process. It requires three to four weeks, -iepandlng on the weather. After hrin^insl -lor . thr e or four weeks, they are put 4j|. boxers where a nattaral white sugara comes put[_and^ remains on the surface. Five pounds of fp^sli fruit produce one po\md, of drlecl.. .T?ie confection is eaten out of hand or reconstituted with water and used In cooking. Calif, farmer Nov. 20, *71