§mM\\ Wimvmii^ Jihatg THE GIFT OF .M.....£i...3:.m^^lnA.irr .Kj^.%.5:.^j>. ^.^..{aIia.. HA201 1890"".B2t"'** '■"'™^ Report Date Due o&^vHm-v 23Za3G The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924030389641 ROBERT P. PORTER, Superintendent. Appointed April 20, 1889; rBsigned July 31, 1893. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, CENSUS OFFICE. CARROLL D. WRIGHT, Commissioner of Labor in charge. Appointed October 5, 1893. REPORT ON MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES nr THE IJITITED STATES AT THE ELEVEISTTH CENSUS: 1890. TEXTILES. WASHINGTON, D. C: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1894. A. {^% ^' Cjo CONTENTS.. page. Letter op transmittal of the Commissioner of Labor in charge to the SscitETAUY of the Interior- v Principal textile industries in the United States (combined) 3-10- Wool manufacture ^ 11-163 Introrluction 11-19 Capital ___ 19-21 Miscellaneous exjiuiises 21 Machinery _ 21-29 Raw materials 29-34 Comparison of American and English wool manufacture 34-40- Employ^s and wages 40-44 Products 44, Classification of products ^ 45-66 - Summary and conclusion 67-71 Table 1. — Comparative statement, excluding hosiery and knit goods, by states and territories : 1810-1890 72-79 Table 2. — Comparative statement of hosiery and knit goods, by states and territories : 1840-1890 80-85 Table 3. — All classes of manufacture, by states and territories 86-91 Table 4. — Summary, by classes 92-99 Table 5. — Woolen mills, by states and territories 98-115 Table 6.— Worsted mills, by states 116-119 Table 7. — Carpet mills other than rag, by states 120-123 Table 8.— Felt mills, by states ■ 124,125- Table 9.— Wool hat mills, by states 126,127 Table 10. — Hosiery and knitting mills, by states and territories 128-133 Table 11. — Classification of employes and wages in all classes, by states and territories 134^137 Table 12. — Classification of employes and wages in each class, by states and territories 138-145 Table 13. — Average number of employes at the different weekly rates of pay in all classes, by states and territories 146-149 Table 14. — Average number of employiSs at the different weekly rates of pay in e*ich class, by states and territories 150-157 Table 15. — ^Custom carding mills, by states •. 158- Table 16. — Idle capital and machinery, by states 159 Table 17. — Shoddy manufacture, by states 160-163 Cotton manufacture 165-209 Introduction 165 Capital .' - 165, 166 Miscellaneous expenses — 166 Items in cost of manufacture 167 Spindles - --- 167-170 Consumption of cotton per spindle 170, 171 Geographical distribution of the industry 171-173 Employes and wages — 173-175 Materials used 176-179 Products 179 Yarn mills - 180- Sewing cotton - 180-182 Dyeing, bleaching, and finishing 182 Fineness of goods — average number of yarn 183-185 • Table 1. — Comparative statement, by states and territories : 1840-1890 186-193 Table 2. — Manuftictnve by states 194-205 Table 3. — Classification of employ (5s and wages, by states 206, 207 Table 4. — Average number of employes at the different weekly rates of pay, by states 208, 209 Silk manufacture 211-230 Production 211 Table 1. — Comparative statement, by state* : 1880 and 1890 211, 212 Values of finished goods - 213 Table 2. — Quantities of products, by states: 1880 214 Table 3. — Quantities of products, by states: IStlO 214 Development of manufaiture 214-217 Number of establisbmeuts 218 Dyeing and finishing 218 Location of mills 219 Capital 219 Emjiloyds and wages 219, 22 J Machinery 221,221; iii iv CONTENTS. *I'LK siAXUi-ACTUliE— Continued. P^ffe- Matei'ialB used 222,223 Waste silk, pierced cocoons, and noils 224 Importations of goods 224 Table 4.— Invoice value of silk goods, by classes : 1881-1890 224 Table 5. — Detailed statement, by states 225-227 Table 6. — Classification of employes and wages, by states 228,229 Table 7. — Average number of employes at the different rates of pay, by states 1 230 Dyeing an'u w>fisHiNG textiles 231-236 Introduction 231,232 Table 1. — Detailed statement, by states 232-234 Table 2. — Detailed statement, by classes 234-236 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. DEPAETMBNT OF THE ESTTEEIOR;. Census Office, Washington, D. 0.,.March,9,.1894;. Sir: I liave the honor to transmit herewith the text and statistical tables of a special- report upon the textile- industries of the United States, as returned at the Eleventh Census. This report comprises, first, an analysis of the textile industries combined, by Mr. S.. If.. D.. North, sj)ecial4 agent; second, a report on the manufacture of wool, by Mr. North; third, a report on themanufacture of ootton,. by Mr. Edward Stanwoodj special agent; fourth, a report on the manufacture of silli,. by Mr. Byron Eose, special agent; and, fifth, a report on dyeing and finishing textiles, by Mr. Peter T. Wood, special- agent.. These reports present a body of statistics so closely related and so interdependient that it was dieeined best to- publish them together as a monograph, thus presenting a view of the textile industries of the country.. These reports were prepared by the special agents named, under the general direction of Mr.. Frank. E.. Williams, special agent in charge of the division of manufactures. I am, very respectfully, CAEEOLL D.. WEIGHT, Gommimonei- of Labor, in chargei. The Secretaky of the Interior. PRINCIPAL TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN THE UNITED STATES. BY S. N. D. NOKTH. The manufactures of wool, cotton, and silk are so closely allied to each other by general similarity of processes and machinery, and by the increasing interchangeable use of the fibers, that they may properly be regarded as constituting one general manufacture, to be considered not only separately, but also as a whole. For the latter purpose tabulated statements containing the principal facts obtained at the Eleventh Census relating to these Industries are herewith presented. Statements in detail for each principal branch of the industry will be found immediately following. For the purpose indicated it is necessary to include with the statistics of wool, cotton, and silk manufactures those of a closely allied industry, viz, the dyeing and finishing of textiles;. The latter relates to the operations of independent dye works, bleacheries, and print works which are exclusively employed in finishing the products of woolen, cotton, and silk mills. The value of the product reported is simply the value added to the fabric by these final processes when conducted by distinct establishments. The other textile industries, the hemp, jute, and flax manufactures, and "mills employed in working raw cotton, waste, or cotton yarn into hose, webbing, tapes, fancy fabrics, mixed goods, or other fabrics, which are not sold as specific manufactures of cotton or wool", reported as "Special mills" in 1880, were treated at the census of 1890 with less particularity of detail upon the general manufacturing schedule, and the results will appear in the reports; containing general statistics of manufactures under different heads, the most important of which are awnings, tents, and sails; baggings, flax, hemp, and jute; bags, other thau paper; belting and hose, linen; belting and hose, rubber; carpets, rag; cordage and twine; cotton waste; gloves and mittens; hand knit goods; jute and jute goods; linen goods; rubber and elastic goods; thread, linen; upholstery materials. As a preliminary exhibit of the growth of the textile industry of the United States, a table is first presented, covering the main statistics for a period of forty years as reported at the censuses of 1850, 1860, 1870, 1880, and 1890. This table shows the total number of establishments engaged in each of the textile manufactures and in dyeing and finishing, the amount of capital, number of employes, amount of wages, cost of materials, and value of manufactured products. Taulu 1. -COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF COMBINED TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN THE UNITED STATES: 1850-1890.. I INDI'STRIICS. Combined textiles. Year. 1850 Number of establish. ments. Wool mannf.icture (!)) 1850 Cotton manufacture 1S50 Silk manufacture [ 5 8o0 Dyeing and iinisliing textiles | ISoO Combined textile.=i. Wocd m an ufacture ( !)) Cottoji manufacture Silk manufacture Dyeing and fluisliing textiles. Combined textiles Wool m.lnufacture (6) Cotton iiumufacture Silk uiau u facture Dyeing and iinisliing textiles. 1860 18C0 1860 ISOO 1860 1870 1870 1870 1870 1,760 1,004 67 104 Capital. $112,513,947 1,673 1,091 139 1U4 4,790 3,456 956 86 29i; 32, 516, 366 74, 500, 931 678, 300 4, 818, 350 150, 080, 852 42, 849, 932 98, 585, 269 2, !)26, 980 5, 718, 671 297, 694, 243 132, 382, 319 140, 706, 291 6,231,130 18, 374, 503 i AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPL0Y1^:S AND TOTAL WAGES Employes. 146, 897 Wages. (a.) 47, 763 92, 286 1, 743 5.105 59, 522 122, 028 5.435 7.097 (a) (a) («) (a) $40, 353, 462 Cost of materials used. $76, 715, 959 Value of products. $128,760,971 119, 859 135, 369 6,049 13, 066 13,361,602 23, 940, 108 1, 050, 224 2,001,528 86, 505, 191 40, 357, 235 39, 044, 132 1, 942, 286 5, 221, 538 29, 246. 696 34, 835, 056 1, 093. 860 11, 540, 347 112,8-12,111 46, 1149, 365 57, 2S.-, 634 3,901,777 5, 005, 435 353, 249, 102 49, 63G, SSI 61,869,184 1, 809, 470 16, 454, 430 214, 740, 614 134,154,015 111,736,936 7, 8l7. 559 c99, 539, 992 80.734,606 115,681,774 6,607,771 11,716,463 520, 386, 704 217. 663, 82a 177, 489, 739 12, 210, 662 Cll3, 017, 537 a This item was not fully reported at the census of 1850. 6 Includes hosiery :iiid kiiil goods. .,,,,. » ,, , ^ , , c At the census of 1870 the valiui of the fabru: itsoli was mciuded, whereas at all subsequent censuses merely the values added to aneb fabrics by the, processes of dyeing and finishing are given. d 4 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF COMBUSTED TEXTILE USTDUSTEIES IN THE UNITED STATES : 1850-1890— Cont'd. INDUSTKIES. Coiiibined textiles. ■Wool manufacture {a) Cotton manufacture (&) Sillf manufacture Dyeing antl finishing textiles. Combined textiles. 1880 1880 1880 1880 1880 1890 "Wool manufacture (a) 1 890 Cotton manul'acture 1890 Silk manufacture i 1890 Dyeing and finishing textiles 1890 Number of establish ments. 4,018 2,689 756 382 191 Capital. $412, 721, 496 159, 091, 869 208, 280, 346 19, 125. 300 26, 223, 981 cJ739, 973, 661 472 248 296, 494, 481 364, 020, 843 51, 007, 537 38, 460, 800 AVERAGE NITMBEB OP EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. EmployiSs. 161, 557 cl74, 659 31, 337 16, 698 219, 132 221, 685 60, 913 20, 267 Wages. $105,060,666 47, 389, 087 42, 040, 510 9, 146, 705 6, 474, 364 176, 647, 348 76, 660, 742 69, 489, 272 19, 680, 318 9, 717, Oil Cost of materials used. $302, 709, 894 164,371,561 102, 206, 347 22, 467, 701 13, 664, 296 421, 398, 196 203, 096, 572 154, 912, 979 51, 004, 426 12, 385, 220 Value of products. $532, 673, 488 267, 252, 913 192, 090, 110 41, 033, 046 32, 297, 420 721,949,262 337, 768, 524 267, 981, 724 87,298,454 28, 900, 660 a Includes hosiery and knit goods. b In addition to these data there were receiv.ed at the census of 1880 returns for 249 mills classed as " Special mills ", engaged in working raw cotton, waste, or 'Cotton yam into hosiery, webbing, tapes, and fancy fabrics, and mixed goods or other fabrics wbioh are not sold as specific manufactures of cotton or wool. These 249 establialiments reported $11,224,448 capital, 12,928 employes, $3,673,909 wages, $2,338,385 cost of cotton consumed, $18,860,273 value of products, and should bo considered in making comparisons. In 1890 this class of mills is reported under a number of different heads, enumerated on page 3, although some of them may be included in the totals for the textile industries presented in this report. c Includes 2,115 officers and clerks, whose salaries were not reported. d Value of property hired is not included in the capital reported in 1890 because it w as not included in the reports of previous census years. While tke incomplete character of earlier census iaquiries renders their comparison with the more detailed results of later investigations somewhat misleading, still the general results shown in the foregoing table present a picture of wonderful development. Since 1850 the capital employed in the textile industry has increased nearly seven times, and the value of products nearly six times. The number of employes has increased from 146,897 to 511,897. The amount paid in wages was not fully reported in 1850, but the increase from 1860 has been nearly four and a half times. VALUE OF PRODUCTS. The development of the textile industry has been uninterrupted. The combined industry produced in 1890 goods valued at $721,949,262, the largest percentage of increase, as measured by the value of products, occurring during the decade 1860-1870. But in order to correctly obtain tlie statistical measure of this growth, account must be taken of the fact that the value of product reported in 1870 was a currency value at a time when the paper dollar averaged 79.81 cents in gold, and the prices of all raw materials were correspondingly high. In making comparisons with the data for the census of 1870 this fact must be remembered, and all values reported at that census reduced to a gold basis. Another fact having a like bearing upon the true measure of growth is the steady -decline in the market value of products which has been in progress since the census of 1870 was taken. This 'decline has been accelerated in each branch of textile manufacture by remarkable improvements and advances in labor saving machinery — improvements which partially equalize the advance in wages which has taken place. These mechanical improvements have not radically changed the principles of mechanism employed in the United States during the last thirty years, but they have greatly siniplifled and expedited processes, and reduced the labor required to produce a given amount of product. The percentages of increase in number of employes and - value of products, after reducing to a gold basis the currency value reported for 1870, are as follows : PERCENTAGES OF INCREASE IN AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS. PEIilODS. Employes. Products. 1850 to 1890 248. 47 32.12 41.68 39.70 33.22 460. 66 66.76 93.41 28.26 35.63 1860tol87U 1880 id 1890 The differences between the percentages of increase in the value of products and in the number of employes indicate in a measure the increase in efficiency of machinery, although many different elements affect both percentages. THE GROWTH BETWEEN 1880 AND 1890. The statistics relating to the years 1880 and 1890 contained in the preceding tables are shown in Table 2 in direct comparison by totals for each state, and for geographical groups of states. COMBINED TEXTILES. Table 2.— OOMPAEATIVE STATEMENT OF COMBINED TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN THE UNITED STATES, BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890 AND 1880. STATliS AND TERRITORIES. Number of ! ments. United states . . New England states . 1890 1880 4, U4 4,018 $739, 973, 661 412, 721, 496 1890 1880 Maine '. 1890 1881) 1,210 1,214 426, 365, 388 261, 561, 147 Now Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 Rhode Island 1890 I 1880 Connecticut . 1 1890 I 1380 Middle states i 1890 ' 1880 107 126 118 126 45 58 533 496 204 194 203 214 1,914 1,540 New York. New Jersey . 1890 1880 1890 1880 615 480 240 186 30, 19, 43, 31, 990, 097 932, 406 891, 412 247. 024 5. 3, 215, 120, 70. 46, 60, 491, 250 750, 257 254, 813 443, 376 699, 470 989, 447 038, 346 198, 637 Miscellaneous expenses. (6) $43, 356, 736 24, 501, 029 1,867,550 2, 339, 287 301, 466 12, 930, 047 4, 260, 785 2. 801, 894 222, 402, 855 115,483,359 Pennsylvania 1890 I 1880 Delaware . 1890 1880 .Maryland(d) j 1890 1880 Southern states - Virginia. . North Carolina . South Carolina . Georgia. . Florida - Alabama. Mississippi . Louisiana- . West Virginia. Kentucky. Tennessee Arkansas Texas All other southern states (e) 1,010 822 75, 881, 672 42, 022, 987 43, 321, 016 16, 028, 770 92, 686, 227 51, 238, 747 2, 555, 233 1, 227, 129 14. 352, 458 6, 052, 430 AVERAGE NCMBEK OF EMPLOY r;s AND TOTAL WA(7ES. Employes. 511, 897 c384, 251 259, 542 217, 674 fl890 1880 1890 33, 762 20, Oil 15, 869 29, 573 24,743 3,040 3,204 126, 810 106, 743 48, 071 36, 622 32, 028 30, 493 185, 136 132, 884 62, 383 46, 153 34, 712 24, 111 81, 381 68, 005 1,543 1,058 5,117 4,557 44, 768 19, 409 W.lge.'i. $175, 547, 343 106, 050, 866 91, 888, 951 60, 811, 202 2,950 1,477 9,276 3,528 8,193 2,066 11, 058 6,496 2, 565 1,508 ,266 940 1,253 108 328 365 2,876 1,181 3,172 1,446 115 154 6, 579, 880 4, 204, 778 10, 044, 132 6, 904, 069 1, 116, 026 807, 048 45, 590, 207 29, 801, 618 18, 835, 284 10, 127, 287 11, 723, 422 8, 786, 404 67, 512, 602 38, 013, 381 22,'663, 753 12, 652, 423 13, 704, 395 7, 652, 833 29, 236, 630 16, 580, 274 546, 117 301, 231 1, 361, 707 846, 820 9, 771, 056 3, 254, 936 628, 159 241, 509 1, 747, 729 462, 854 1, 646, 689 382, 017 2, 470, 438 1.181,664 Cost of materials used. $421, 398, 196 302, 709, 894 211, 974, 959 172, 223, 778 107 716 515, 136 243; 035 597, 251 186, 314 290. 042 12, 572 79, 380 51, 361 804, 094 231, 755 735, 095 228, 134 21, 106 20, 565 1, 998, 655 1, 023, 471 6, 553, 635 1, 719, 352 6,820,132 1, 827, 755 7, 998, !.26 4, 185. 462 Value of products. 14, 495, 290 12, 148, 526 22, 225, 159 18, 809, 037 2, 626, 232 2, 881, 936 107, 465, 624 84, 228, 717 37, 911, 493 27, 708, 649 27, 251, 161 26,448,914 161, 124, 539 , 108, 328, 63« $721, 949, 282 532, 673, 488 365. 613, 324 310. .542, 352 47, 621, 495 30.610,901 29, 682, 210 17, 456, 679 78, 869, 158 53, 999, 549 1, 007, 270 975, 490 3. 944, 400 3. 285, 917 32,624,416 12, 781, 602 24, 911, 165 21, 470. 567 37, 256, 364 32, 757, 353 4, 744, 326 4, 671, 041 184, 938, 074- 152, 988, 522 67, 005 615 . 61, 383, 560 46, 757, 780 47, 271, 300 279, 676, 396 183, 443, 725 86, 171, 293 - 56, 191, 417 52, 831, 023 - 31, 885, 348 132, 367, 499 - 88,594,143 1,821,278 1, 536, 260 6, 385, 303 5, 268, 557 49, 729, 674 20. 381, 689 18,096 1, 573, 938 833, 072 1, 380, 009 648, 795 737, 212 72, 470 225, 961 290, 343 2, 300, 959 1, 107, 523 2, 525, 198 976,815 46, 557 119, 277 2, 964, 171 1, 618, 930 10, 053, 204 2, 857, 642 9, 801, 956 2, 919, 844 12, 375, 724 6, 724, 784 28,160 235, 937 59, 262 463, 334 25, 000 2, 398, 648 1, 291, 764 2, 257, 583 978, 898 1, 128, 751 86. 776 395. 700 413, 586 3, 785, 436 1, 089, 694 3. 724, 138 1, 495, 441 71, 913 177, 430 102. 100 774, 392 147.500 6 982,316 a Value of hired property is not included in the capita! reported in 1890, because it was not included in the report of 1880. b This item was not reported at the census of 1880. c Includes 2,115 ofacers and clerks engaged in cotton manufacture whose salaries were not reported. d Maryland is classed as a middle state for purposes of comparison. e Includes stales grouped in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. Tliese establishments are distributed as follows: Florida, 1; Te-xas, 5. 6 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 3.™ COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF COMBINED TEXTILE INDUSTRIES IN THE UNITED STATES, BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890 AND 1880— Continued. STATES AND TEKHITORIES. "Weatern stiite Ohio Indiana IlliDois Michigan "Wisconsin . . - Minnesota... Iowa Missouri (a) . Kansas Utah Wnshiiigton . Oregon Teai". Number of I establish-i ments. I Capital . 1890 1S80 ]S90 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 188U 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 M890 1S80 1890 1880 . W890 I 1880 .' 1890 I 1880 50i 651 Caiifornia , 1890 18i!0 All othei- western states {'j)-, 1890 125 163 61 95 75 85 51 60 53 30 37 45 109 $28. 581, 689 15, 263, 576 14 12 4, 820, 526 2, 323, 340 5,431,065 3, 413, 106 4,119,495 1,825,203 1,691,461 726, 189 4, 603, 613 1,5.50.964 815, 144 203, 500 896, 741 555, 700 890, 020 1, 665, 550 Miscellaneous expenses. $1, 811, 829 612.579 402, 000 10 20 14 40, 000 1, 350, 585 566, 800 3, 235, 263 1, 840. 800 109,197 314, 894 379, 881 234, 455 119, 060 279, 328 70, 917 53, 069 38, 608 AVERAGE NUMBER OF employjSs and total WAGES. Employes. 22, 451 14, 284 3,970 2,839 4,434 2,784 4,072 2,337 "Wag-es. $0, 374, 734 3, 171, 147 1, 130, 611, 1,150, 662, 1,315, 5i5, 29, 301 1, 635 1,397 430 185 3,884 1,146 952 285 475 263 170 55 539 505 181 118 804 1,350 204 235, 518 923 063 310 335 209 933 566 703 327 640 252 267 107 26, 075 Cost of materials used. $15, 674, 282 11, 375, 888 3, 233, 787 1, 780, 099 3, 208, 276 2, 587, 954 2, 429, 604 1, 937, 336 1,110,018 624.241 2,399,217 1, 096, 474 398. 300 190, 867 629, 832 437. 301 452, 068 1, 105, 497 Value of products. $27, 029. 868 18, 305, 722 86, 906 199, 373 6,037 344 306 121, 70, 176 208 189, 339 150, 098 402 216 1,794 175, 86, 510, 375, 000 311! 590 718 52, 000 327, 502 227, 486 1.2,18.007 1, 078. 534 5, 437, 483 3, 032, 669 5.214,211 4, 074, 576 4, 666, 115 2. 980, 116 1. 964. 974 928, 766 4. 100, 201 1,827,275 730,438 303, 378 899,918 i 682, 812 ! 798. 7:!0 1,56J,641 212, 065 392, 094 287, 3M 614,932 549, 030 2. OSO, 21.5 1.794,03:! 98 I a Missouri is classed :is it western state for tbe purpose of comparison. & Includes states liavingless tban 3 establisbments in order that the oi>erations of individual establishments mayt not be disclosed. These estaijlishments are -distributed as follows; Colorado, 2; Idaho, 1; Kansas, 2: Nebraska, 1 ; South Dakota, 2 ; "Washiiigton, 1. The foregoing table brings out iu strong liglit the concentration of the textile interests in tlie Ifew England and middle states, where were produced in 1890 $645,189,720, or 89.37 per cent of the total value of textile products in the United States, being an increase of 30.61 per cent over the iiroduction of these states in 1880. The New England states alone produced 50.64 per cent of the total product of the United States, an increase of 17.73 per cent over the value of their textile products in 1880. The middle states produced 38.73 per cent of the total product, an increase of 52.40 per cent over 1880. The increase in the textile products of the states included in the southern gronp has been more marked than iu those included in the western, due to the notable increase in cotton manufacture. The southern states produced textiles to the value of $49,729,674 in 1890, beiug 6.89 per cent of the total value of textiles, an increase of 143.99 per cent over the value of their production iu 1880. This increase is almost entirely in the manufacture of cotton, as the product of the wool, hosiery, silk, and dyeing and finishing industries in the south reported at the census of 1890 amounted only to $8,215,963. The product of the textile industry for the western states, as reported at the census of 1890, is but $27,029,868 or 3.74 per cent of the total product of the country, though an increase of 47.66 per cent over the value of the product of the western states in 1880. Tiiis increase was chiefly in the manufacture of woolen and hosiery and knit goods, the product of other textile industries in the western states having a total value of $8,053,696 in 1890. The state of Massachusetts is still the leading textile manufacturing state of the Union, manufacturing in 1890 a product valued at $184,938,074, of which $100,202,882 or 54.18 per cent was the value of cotton goods. The value of Massachusetts textile products in 1890 was 25.62 per cent of the production of the entire country, the gain during the decade being 20.88 per cent. Pennsylvania ranks second as a textile producing state, manufacturing goods to the value of $132,367,499 in 1890, which is 18.33 per cent of the total product of the country, and an increase of 49.41 per cent over her product of 1880. The northern state which shows the largest percentage of increase in product during the decade is New Jersey, where an increase of 65.79 i)er cent is shown. After New Jersey, New York shows the largest percentage of increase, 53.35,. followed by Pennsylvania with 49.41 and Ehode Island with 30.40 per cent. COMBINED TEXTILES. Of tbe .southern group, the state of Georgia ranks first in total value of product, with an Increase of 84.03 per cent, followed by North Carolina with an increase of 251.80 per cent. South Carolina with an increase of 235.70 per cent, and Kentucky with an increase of 124.03 per cent. As previously stated, the great increase in this section is due principally to the development of the cotton industry during the past decade. It is to be noted that the states in which any single branch of the textile industry is successful are those in whicli each of the others chiefly flourish. The development of the cotton manufacture in the south is the only conspicuous exception to this lule. The rule may be tested by observing that the limited number of states in which the silk manufacture has a large development are states in which the cotton and wool manufactures are increasingly and successfully carried on. Nevertheless the tendency to localization, which is strong in each textile industry, has resulted in making four cities in different states the chief localities in which each industry is carried on: Philadelphia, Pa.,' in the wool manufacture; Fall Eiver, Mass., in the cotton manufacture; Paterson, N. -T., in the silk manufacture, and Cohoes, N. Y., in the hosiery and knit goods manufacture. Table 3 presents the percentages of increase in the combined industries, as shown by the census reports of 1880 and 1890. The more thorough method employed at the current census may have in a measure affected the increase shown in some of the items, especially thiit of capital. Table 3.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT AND PERCENTAGE OF INCREASE FOR TEXTILE INDUSTRIES: 1890 AND 1880. GENERAL HEADS. Number of establishments . . . . Caijital (a) Miscellaneous expenses Average number of employes . Total -wages Cost ot materials used Value of products [Percentage ; tof increase. 4,144 $739, 973, 661 $43, 356, 736 511 , 897 $172, 082, 609 $421, 398, 196 $721, 949, 262 4,018 $412, 721, 490 (i) c384, 251 $105, 050, 666 $302, 709, 894 $532, 673, 488 2.39 79.29 33.22 63.81 39.21 35. 53 a Value of hired property is not included in the capital reported in 1890, because it was not included in the report of 1880. h This item was not reported at the census of 1880. ' c Includes 2,115 olUcers and clerks engaged in cotton manufacture whose salaries were not reported. Therefore, in computing the percentage of increase in wages, the amount, $3,464,734, paid these classes in the cotton industry in 1890 is not included. In the value of their products the wool and cotton manufactures rank very closely. At the census of 1890 the value of the product of the wool manufacture i.s shown to be $337,768,524, and of cotton manufacture as $267,981,724, but all cotton knit goods and hosiery are included with the former, as well as cotton goods manufactured in woolen mills. If it were possible to make an exact classification of the products along the line of the predominating fiber, we should find the value of the iiroducts of these two industries about the same. Moreover, mixed textiles, so called, made of wool and cotton, are all enumerated with tbe wool manufacture in accordance with the rule which classifies them with the products of the fiber predominating in value. In all the following comparisons between the two industries the statistics of hosiery and knit goods manufacture are omitted from the totals of wool manufacture for the reason above given. Up to 1870 the value of the cotton manufactures greatly exceeded that of wool manufactures, as shown by the following table : Taulk 4 COMPARATIVE VALUE OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS FROM 1800 TO 1890. Wool. Cotton. Silk. 1800. 1810. 1820. 1830. 1840.. 1830.. 1869., 1870-. 1880.. 1890.. $4, 413, 068 14,528,166 20, 696, 999 48, 008, 779 73, 454, 000 199, 257, 202 218, 085, 686 270, 527, 511 $170, 000 3, 240, 000 25, 000, 000 27. 000, 000 46, 350, 453 61, 869, 184 115, 681, 774 177, 489, 739 192, 090, 110 2li7, 981, 724 .$1,809,476 6, 607. 771 12,210 0G2 41, 033 045 87, 298 454 111 the foregoing table the estimates of the special agents on the cotton and wool manufactures, for the value of product at the census years prior to 1840, are used in the absence of complete official data for those years. The reversal of relations in the value of the products of the wool and cotton manufactures which occurred between 1860 and 1870 was the direct result of conditions created by the war, as the cotton famine, the demand for woolen goods for the army, and the large development of the domestic wool clip. In the interval since 1860 the fall in the value of wool has been much greater relatively than the fall in the value of cotton, and this factor has had a great influence in bringing the relative values of tbe manufactured product nearer together. 8 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. COMPAEATIVB CONSUMPTION OF FIBERS. The relative value of products is not a true measure of the consumption, which can only be judged by the quantity of raw material used in the mills. The volume of cotton products entering into popular consumption is much the greater. This is shown by the following comparative table, which gives the annual consumption in quantities of raw cotton and wool, and so far as possible for silk by decades for fifty years. Table 5.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF CONSUMPTION OF TEXTILE FIBERS: 1840-1890. yEAES. Wool. Cotton. Silk. 1840 I'oundn. Pounds. 126, 000, 000 288, 558, 000 422, 704, 975 398, 308, 257 750, 343, 981 1, 117, 945, 776 Pounds. 1850. . 70, 862, 829 95, 452, 159 214, 373, 219 287, 597, 334 351, 158, 020 1860 462,965 684, 488 2, 690, 482 6, 376, 881 1870 1880 . . . . 1890 . If to the cotton consumed in 1890, as given above, we add the 75,428,865 pounds of cotton consumed by the woolen industry, including hosiery and knitting mills, and to the wool consumed we add the 21,639,393 pounds of wool consumed in hosiery and knitting mills, we have a total of 1,193,374,641 pounds of cotton used by domestic manufactures in the census year, as compared with a total of 372,797,413 pounds of wool, or 3.20 pounds of cotton to edch pound of wool. A large quantity of hair and shoddy is consumed in wool manufacture, and the quantity of wool consumed is reported " in condition purchased " with anaverage shrinkage of 50 per cent, while the cotton consumed shrinks but little beyond the wastage. NUMBER OF ESTABLISHMENTS. The smallest percentage of increase • shown in Table 3 is in the number of establishments reporting. This column strikingly illustrates the tendency apparent in the textile industries toward the concentration of manufacture in large establishments. This tendency is chiefly between 1880 and 1890 in the wool manufacture, where the number of establishments reporting in 1890 is less than in 1880. The special reasons for this are fully set forth in the report on wool manufactures. The remaining branches of the textiles each show a substantial increase in the number of establishments, but the percentage of gain is much smaller in this particular than in the other items. ISTeither the cotton nor the silk statistics have ever been complicated by statistics of the household industry in the manner that is still true of the woolen manufacture; but a reference to Table 1 shows that the number of establisbments now engaged in manufacturing cotton is smaller than in 1850-1860, although their spindle capacity is now nearly four times as, great as in 1850. The number of silk mills, on the other hand, has steadily increased, except for the decade ending in 1870. The widest contrasts are presented by the organization of the cotton and wool industries. The cotton manufacture, conducted as a rule under the corporate method, is carried on in large mills, comparatively few in number, the 905 establishments reported at 1890 manufacturing a product nearly equal in value to the product of the 1,693 wool manufacturing establishments. There are comparatively few very large mills engaged in manufacturing wool fabrics. CAPITAL. The iigures given under the head of capital must be used with caution, as the method of reporting tliis item has varied with every census, and has never before resulted in a return so complete and comprehensive as that presented for 1890. With this caution, we present a table showing the capital in each of the textile industries for each decade since 1840. Table 6.— CAPITAL IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRIES FROM 1840 TO 1890. 1840 1850 1880 1870 1880 1880 (6) . Wool. $15, 765. 124 31, 971, 631 38, 814, 422 121,451,059 143, 512, 278 245, 886, 743 Hosiery and knit goods. Cotton. Silk. («) $544, 735 4, 030, 510 10, 931, 260 15, 579, 591 50, 607, 738 $51, 102, 359 74, 500, 931 98, 585, 269 140, 706, 291 208, 280, 340 354, 020, 843 $678, 300 2, 926, 980 6,231,130 19, 125, 300 51,007,5,37 a Not separately reported. b Value of hired property i» not included in the capital reported in 1890, because it was not included in the reports of previous census years. COMBINED TEXTILES. 9 The relationship between capital and the value of the product varies in aecordauce with the character of the material used. The silk manufacture, utilizing the most costly and delicate of the fibers, produces much the largest value of product relatively with the amount of capital, and after silk the wool manufacture. The product of the latter is valued at $24,640,768 iu excess of the capital utilized, while the capital in the cotton manufacture is $86,039,119 in excess of the value of the product. This general relationship between capital and product in. each of the textile industries has existed since 1850, as shown by Table 1, although the given amount of capital in each industry produced a much larger product relatively in the earlier decades than at present. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MATERIALS AND PEODUCT. The relationship between the cost of materials and the value of the product exhibits a striking uniformity in all the textile industries. This is shown by the following table, which gives the cost of materials in $100 of product for 1890 in each industry : Table V.— COST OF MATERIALS USED AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS. INDUSTRIES. Cost of materials used. Value of products. Cost of materials in $100 of product. Wool $167,233,987 . :i5,861,585 1.54, 912, 979 51,004,425 $270, 527, 511 67, 241, 013 267, 981, 724 87,298,454 $61. 82 53.83 57.81 58.43 Hosiery and knit goods . . Silk COMPARISON OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES. Table 8 presents the average number of employes and amount of wages in each branch of the textile industry,, togetl'.er with the total wages and the avera.ge annual earnings of males, females, and children, for each class in 1890. Table 8.— .WERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES, TOTAL WAGES, AND AVERAGE ANNUAL EARNINGS FOR THE UXITE1> STATES: 18a0. INDUSTRIES Combined textiles 611, 897 AGGEEGATES. Average number. Wool ; iri7,923 Hosiery and knit goods ! 01,2C9' Cotton ' 221, 585 Silk Dyeing and tinisbing - 50, 913 20, 267 Total wa^es. $175, 547, 343 Average annual earnings jier em- ploy6. $342. 93 58, 397, 470 369. 78 18, 263, 272 298. 38 69, 489, 272 313. 60 19, 080. 318 386. 55 9.717,011 479. 45 OFFICERS, FIKjr MEMBERS, AND CLERKS. Males above 16 vear Average number. 9,709 3,530 1,620 2,027 1,396 036 Total wages. Average annual earnir gs per em- ploye. 11,724,072 $1,207.55 4, Oil, 337 1,641,230 3, 427, 362 1, 85J, 235 791. 908 1, 136 36 1,079.76 1, 304. 67 1, 326. 82 1, 245. 14 Females above 15 years. Average number. Total wages. $206, 678 Average annual earnings per em- ploy6. 122 101 82 135 30 46, 358 43. 923 37, 372 65, 042 13, 383 $439. 74 379. 98- 434.88- 453.76 486.24 446. li(' ALL OTHER EMPLOYES. INDUSTRIES. Combined textiles - Wool Hosiery and knit goods . Cotton Silk Dyeing and finishing 10,510 10 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The amoimtipaid. iu "wagesito all dlasses of employes in the combined textile indnstiles has increased 63.81 per 'Cent since 1880. In making this. calculation the amount paid of&cers and clerks in cotton mills is not included in the total amount of wages for 1890, as it was not reported at the census of 1880. The largest increase occurred in the hosiery and'knit goods industry where it was shown to be 172.53 per cent. Silk follows, with an increase of 115.16 per cent; then cotton, with an increase of 57.05 per cent; dyeing and finishing, with an increase of 50.08 per cent, and finally wool, with an increase of 43.53 per cent: The increase in wages and average annual earnings for each employ^, as in other items, may be due in part to the change in the form of inquiry and the more x)erfect enumeration at the census of 1890. The large decrease in the number of childreii employed also has considerable bearing on the increase in the average annual earnings. The average annual earnings for all classes of employes differ widely in the several industries. For the division of the average annual earnings between men, women, and children, and the manner in which the average is affected by the relative number of each class and the time employed, reference is made to the tables presenting the data in detail for wool, cotton, and silk manufacture. The cotton manufacture employs the largest number of operatives, but the wool manufacture employs the largest proportion of men. The following table shows the number of men, women, and children, and their relative proportion, in each industry for 1880 and 1890: Tablh 9.— average NUMBER OF MALES, FEMALES, AND CHILDREN IN EACH INDUSTRY, WITH THE PERCENTAGE THAT EACH IS OF THE TOTAL NUMBER OF EMPLOYES: 1880 AND 1890. INDUSTRIES. Average Liiumlier. Combiued 1 extiles ] 159, 382 Wool Hosiery and knit goods ■ Cotton , Silk Dyeing and linisliing textiles. 67. 942 7, 517 61, 760 9,375 12,786 Percent- age. 41.48 •51. 21 26.02 35. 36 29.92 -.76. 58 E 16 VEAE 90 FEMALES ABOVE 15 YEARS. 18 1S80 1 1890 Average number. Percent- age. Average number. Percent- age. Average number. Percent- age. ' 47.68 226, 054 44.16 169, 806 44. 19 244, 069 82, 080 16,366 91,464 18, 998 17, 146 51.98 26.74 41.28 37.31 84.60 49, 107 17, 707 84, 558 16, 396 2,038 37.01 61.30 48.41 52.32 1 12.21 65,066 40, 927 106, 089 29, 049 2,328 41.20 60.' 86 48.16 57.06 11.49 j CHiLnnE>-. 1880 Average number. 55, 063 15,623 3,661 28, 341 5,566 1,872 nge. 14.33 11.78 12.68 16.23 17.76 11.21 1890 Average number. 41, 784 10, 777 3,916 23, 432 2.866 793 Percent- age. 6.40 10.57 5.63 3.91 It is evident from. the tables here presented that the textile industries have flourished in keeping with the .general prosperity of the country. The natural aptitude of our people fits them for equal success in any of these industries, and climatic conditions are, on the whole, as favorable here as elsewhere. In every branch of textiles our national contributions to the development and perfecting of the special machinery employed in the manufacture have been of the utmost importance. The manufacture of linen has never been largely carried on in the United States, although we have several large mills which have been successfully operated for many years. This is explained by the inferior character of our domestic flax as compared with that of Belgium and Ireland, by the excessive amount of care and labor required in the preparation of the fiber for spinning, and by the comparatively limited market for linen goods, which diminishes the inducement to enter into competition with countries where the manufacture of these goods "has been made a specialty for generations, and in which it has reached a high degree of excellence. Contrasting the general conditions of the textile industries of this country with its conditions elsewhere, one is impressed with the great diversification which attends it here and with the remarkable manner in which it adapts its products to the daily needs of our own people. Manufacturing almost wholly for domestic consumption, the aim in all lines has been to anticipate and meet the average wants of the home community. This tendency has resulted in the development of the manufacture of the cheaper and coarser fabrics of all fibers, and a comparatively small advance in the higher and more expensive products. There are notable exceptions to this rule in every branch, particularly carpets; and the one characteristic of the progress of the last decade, which distinguishes it l»eyond the limits of statistical comparison from the progress of any previous decade, has been the advance made into the higher forms of the textile arts. This advance has occurred in all branches, and is dwelt upon in detail iu ■the special reports which Ibllow.. WOOL MANUFACTURE. HY 8. N. D. NORTH. The Bleventk Census completes the statistical record of the first century of woolen manufacture in the United States by the factory system, as now understood and developed. The statistical history of the industry for the first half of the century is meager and desultory. For the fifty years last past, it has been presented by the several censuses Avith a detail which makes it possible to accomijany the present report with a comparative summary of all the statistical data, regarding American wool manufacture and the hosiery and knit goods manufactuie ■which have appeared in the federal censuses since 1840. The data presented in census records prior to 1840 are so fragmentary that it is impossible to leduce them to tabular form in harmony with the later statistics. The preparation of the tables for the fifty years they cover has been accompanied by many difliculties, owing to the different methods of grouping adopted and the conflicting character of the figures that' are published. To illustrate these difflcultJes, it may be stated that at times the hosiery and knit goods manufacture has been counted as a part of the wool manufacture, and at other times it has been separately ennmeratc^d, and not subsequently incorporated. Carding mills are partially included in the census of 1870 and subsequently, but not always prior to that date. The utmost pains have been taken in constructing these tables to bring together all the figures that properly belong in them. The figures for woolen goods; worsted goods, carpets, felts, wool hats, and hosiery and knit goods are combined, whenever obtainable. Where deficiencies exist which can not be supplied attention is called to them in the footnotes attached. The chief difficulty in the compilation of the scattered returns contained in previous censuses has arisen from the failure to include the statistics of hosiery and knit goods manufacture. The increasing use of cotton in this industry furnishes a reason why it should be separately treated, as in this table; but the total wool consumption can only be correctly stated by including these statistics with those of the other branches of the industry. While the quantity of cotton consumed in this industry now vastly exceeds that of wool, yet the value of the wool remains the greatest, justifying the classification of the census. In all the references of this report, therefore, the statistics of hosiery and knit goods are included. The confusion tliat has existed, in consequence of the failure of previous census reports to properly group all these figures, has led to many errors in attempts to measure the statistical growth of the American wool manufacture on the basis of census figures, errors due to the omission, in one year or another, of one or another (if the separate groups of figures essential to a complete comparison. The rate of progress for the decade covered by the Eleventh Census has not been as rapid as that which marked several of the previous decades covered by Tables 1 and 2, but it has been healthy and steady, as is shown by the following comparative table: CNERAL HEADS. 1890 1880 Number of establisbiiipnts f'2, 489 Capital aif296, 494, 481 Miscellaueous expenses $19. 249, 508 Average number of employes 219, 132 Total wages $76, 6G0, 742 Cost of materials used $203, 095, 572 Valne of products , $337, 768, .■)24 2, 6S9 $159, 091, 869 (d) 161, 557 $47, 389, 087 $164,371,551 $267, 252, 913 Percentage of 67.44 c86. 37 35.64 61.77 23.56 26.39 a Not including- 267 idle establishments reporting invested capital amounting to $6,100,860. Does not include the value of "Hired projierty." b Deircase. '■ 'file great iuc^reaso shown in the amount of capital employed as between 1890 and 1880 is more apparent than real, and i.s largely due to the fact that the capital returned for tiK! census of 1880 did not take cognizance of all items which properly go to make up "live assets ", and which, it ia believed, are for the first time fully included in the census of 1890. d This item was not reported at the census of 1880. In this comparison we must bear in mind the fact that the year 1879-1880, in which the prior census was taken, was a year of unusual and at times even speculative activity in the wool manufacture, and it is commercially 11 12 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. recognized as the most prosperous year the industry has encountered since the war. On the other hand, the year 1889-1890 was a comparatively dull year in the wool manufacture, in which a considerable portion of the machinery of active mills was idle during a part or the whole of the year. Another fact to be considered in making the comparison is the large reduction in the market value of the goods covered by this report. Probably no previous decade witnessed so general a downward movement in prices. The value of products now given indicates a much greater quantity of production than the same value in 1880 or in any previous year would have signified. Something of the measure of this decline in value of products is indicated by the fall in the cost of raw materials. The whole subject is discussed in another portion of this report. No statement relating to mixed textiles will be made in the reports of the Eleventh Census similar to that embodied iu Table vii, page 465, volume 2, of the Census of 1880. To avoid a possible misapprehension, it is necessary to state that a careful examination of the original data from which these statistics of "mixed textiles" were compiled for the Tenth Census, shows that so far as these joroducts consisted of goods composed of wool and cotton, with wool the component material of chief value, they were a duplication of products already reported and accounted for in the statistics of the wool manufacture proper. For this reason no cognizance is to be taken of the products reported as " mixed textiles" in a comparison of the statistics of wool manufacture of the two census periods. CONNECTICUT. The reported value of the jproducts of the wool manufacture of the state of Connecticut, as shown in Tables 1 and 2, less by $4,011,704 than that reported in 1880, notwithstanding an increase in the machinery capacity of the state. The susjjicion of inaccuracy excited by this fact led the special agent to make a careful comparison of his returns with those received by the Connecticut state bureau of statistics of labor. The comparison showed that the returns from the mills reporting to the state bureau were substantially the same as those made to the Census Office, thus confirming in a striking manner the accuracy of both. The decrease is partly due to the substitution of fur for wool in the hat manufacture, thus excluding the statistics of several mills from this report; but it also extends to the manufacture of woolen and worsted goods. An examination of individual returns made in 1880 leads the special agent to believe that the value of the products of Connecticut was exaggerated ten years ago. MANTJFACTUEING IN PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. Various branches of the wool manufacture are carried on in the public, penal, and eleemosynary institutions of 9 states, all data of which are omitted from these tables. This manufacture consumed 76,300 pounds of wool and 210,000 pounds of cotton; but most of its products were made from purchased yarns, and consisted of hosiery and other knitted goods to the value of $403,137. The remaining products were chiefly flannels, linseys, and cotton- warp cloths. The other details regarding this phase of the manufacture are contained in the following table: WOOL MANrPACTURE— STATEMENT OF PUBLIC, PENAL, AND ELEEMOSYNARY INSTITUTIONS. Total New York (a) Pennsylvauia (b) . - . All other states (c) Number of institu- tions. .14 3 8 Eraploy69 604 432 383 Total wages. Cost of materials used. $279, 800 Value of products. $462, 585 ,53, 708 1.32, 181 93,911 97. 995 196, 306 168, 284 alnstitutions in New York : hosiery ami knit goods, 3. h Tnstitufion.s iii renns;\ Ivania ; hosiery and kuit goods, 1 ; carpets, 2, c Includes states having less than 3 institutions, so that the operations of individual institutions may not be disclosed. These institutions are located as follows; Maryland, 3, hosiery and knit goods; Minnesota, 1, hosiery and knit goods; Kew Hampshire, 1, hosiery and knit goods ; Ohio, 2, hosiery and knit goods ; Texas, 1. woolen goods; Virginia, 1, hosiery and knit goods; Wisconsin, 1, hosiery and knit goods. METHODS OF THE PKESBNT INVESTIGATION. In the x)reparation of the schedules for this inquiry pains were taken to avoid, so far as possible, any modifications that would prevent accurate comparisons with the statistics collected in 1880. The schedule of the last census was prepared by the late George William Bond, of Boston, and the data collected were compiled under his direction. Mr. Bond was recognized as the leading expert in the United States ou all questions connected with wool and its manufacture. He had annually compiled since 1865 a review of the wool markets of the country, for the Boston Board of Trade, and his annual wool circulars contained the accepted data regarding the volume and movement of the clip. He was familiar also with the manufacture, and his schedule, the first special census schedule prepared for this industry, was based upon an intimate knowledge of the conditions of the industry, and of the information likely to be of service in connection with a statistical exhibit of its condition and progress. The present special agent accejited Mr. Bond's schedule after correspondence with manufacturers, except in two particulars. It Avas evident that the inquiry of 1880 had not resulted in a satisfactory return of the TEXTILES— WOOL. 13 •capital invested, and for Mr. Bond's questions, under tliis bead, were substituted tliose adopted by tbe Census Office for uniform use upon all the special schedules relating to manufactures. In tbe classification of products a new system was also adopted. In tbese two particulars no comparison of returns as between 1S80 and 1890 can be safely attempted. In other respects it is believed that the comparison is exact and accurate. At the same time the statistics of tbe manufacture are now presented with a detail and closeness of analysis exceeding anything attempted in 1880. This is particularly tbe case in the wage tables and in the assignment of values to the different varieties of manufactured products. NUMBEli OF ESTABLISHMENTS. The total number of establishments for which returns were received at the Eleventh Census was 2,770, of which number 267 were not in operation during the census year, and 14 were conducted by public, penal, and eleemosynary institutions. The number of establishments reported in 1880 was 2,689. The number of establishments affords no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of wool manufacturing. This is due to the fact that in all censuses of the industry (except that of 1860) the custom carding mill has been counted as a woolen factory, although it is not, in the modern use of the term, a factory, and it ought therefore to "be excluded from the statistics of factory manufacture. The present census has made such an elimination possible hereafter by a separate return of the statistics of custom carding mills. CUSTOM CARDINa MILLS. ' These mills are simply neighborhood industries, similar in character to grist mills or the ginning mills of the cotton districts, that prepare tlie locality wool for the household spinner and weaver. Formerly they were scattered in great numbers all o\er the country, and were frequently combined with fulling mills, which finished the home-spun cloth for domestic use. Nearly every New England township had its carding and fulling mill, with machinery generally moved by water power. The trade of the clothier and fuller was as distinct as that of the hatter, and both have nearly disappeared. In Vermont, in 1810, 1,040,000 yardsof cloths and flannels were woven in private families and dressed in these mills. In 1840 the census reported the existence of '2,585 fulling inills, which included the woolen mills (a), and it is probable that even at that late date the value of the woolen goods made in the household, with the assistance of these auxiliary mills, exceeded the value of the factory product. In 1850 the wool-carding establishments, exclusive of regular woolen factories, were returned as 630 in number, consuming wool to the value of $1,251,.550 and manufacturing a product valued at §1,739,476. Inl860, when the census Avas more closely taken, the number of carding mills reported was 712, using 5,230,051 pounds of wool, of a value of $1,759,125, which were converted into rolls valued at $2,403,513. The geographical h)cation of these mills show how strictly they were the pioneers of an advancing civilization. Tliey had then almost disappeared from the New England states, but 64 being reported there, as compared with 99 in the middle states, 217 in tiie southern states, and 328 in the western states, with four establishments only in the Pacific states. The average Nalue of the wool carded was 33 J cents a i)ound. No data appear in the census reports of 1870 to show the number of carding mills included in the returns for that year. The census of 1880 had returns for 570 carding mills, which it did not separately report, and from 233 other mills, each of which used less than 5,000 jjounds of wool per annum. With the growtli of the factory luanufacture these custom carding mills are disappearing with accelerating rapidity, and there are now left in the United States but 193 distinct carding mills of which the special agent could obtain trace. These are very irregularly located, as shown in Table 15, where a distinct statement is made for them, although they are included as woolen mills in all preceding tables. These 193 carding mills employed but 416 persons, all told, to whom were paid $61,618 in wages; they consumed but 874,253 pounds of scoured wool, which was chiefly converted into rolls for household use, and was worth $476,278 in that form. The very low average earnings indicated by the above figures was due primarily to the fact that most of tliese mills were in oi)eration for portions of the census year only. Such wage statistics obviously have no ]iroper place in the general statistics of the wool manufacture. There were in addition a number of returns received upon the general manufacturing schedule from mills which ran a carding engine for a few months in the year in connection with the grist mill or sawmill, which comprised the chief business of the establishment. No effort was made to include any portion of these returns in the statistics of wool manufacture herewith presented, and the actual consumption of wool in carding mills is therefore in excess of the quantity stated. The census of 1860 showed the employment of 1,276 persons in carding mills whose earnings aggregated $286,207, a much larger annual average than that shown in the statistics for 1890. This difference in the earnings as between the two periods is the most striking evidence of the decadence of the custom carding mills as a feature in the industrial condition of the country. While earnings in every other branch of wool manufacturing have greatly advanced they ha\e here greatly fallen off. a Sec Census of iTauutaetuTLTa, 1860, p. xlviii. 14 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. It was exceedingly difficult to obtain satisfactory returns for these cardiag- mflls.. Iir a majority of cases the proprietors reported that they did their own work, often with the assistance of members of their own families,, to whom they paid no wages, la many cases, also, they declined to put a value upon their product, for the reason that they carded the wool of their customers into rolls, never owning the wool themselves,, but charging so much per pound for their labor. In other instances they received their pay in produce. The wool thus carded entered almost invariably into household manufacture, which still exists to a considerable extent, particularly in the states of Maine, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. The inclusion of these small carding mills in the number of establishments reporting has deprived that column of any value as a test of growth. Thus the total number of establishments reporting, in the several censuses,, was as follows: 1840 1,420 1850 1,760 1860 ol, 673 1870 . 1880 . 1890. 3, 456 2,689 2,770 The number of acjtual mills in existence in 1890 was much larger than at any previous census, if these locall industries are excluded. It must also be considered that the " number of establishments " does not exactly represent the number of mills, for the reason that two and sometimes three mills, formerly reported separately,, are frequently consolidated and operated under one management, from which but a single report is received. SIZE OF WOOLEN MILLS. The tendency of the industry is in the direction of larger mills. The majority of the establishments in the earlier days of the industry were one and two set mills, and this continues to be the case in the southern and western states. But in the eastern stuites the larger mills 'now greatly predominate, as is shown by the following- table, which groups the woolen mills of the several geographical divisions according to their machinery capacity : NUMBER OF MILLS OF EACH CLASS. GEOGKAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Total . New England states : Woolen mills Hosiery and knitting mills . Middle states : Woolen mills Hosiery and knitting mills . Southern states : Woolen mills Hosiery and knitting mills Western and Pacific status ; Woolen mills Hosiery and knitting mills set. I set. 501, 47 59 1 » i 460 120 108 3 197 57 ' ;ioi 123 19 C •19 9 4 .set. I I 7 I set l,am ji 364 : 246 : 15 1^3 ' 70 i 100 :,3 34 6 ' 5 53 j 34 15 ' 16 33 , 10 i 8 ! 2 1 ' 1. ! 50 '■ 24 12 8 4 i 4 '. 1 ; 9 liotoi; set. set. I yet. .set. ' set. set. 39 : 20 33 . 10 34 I 17 ' 13 : 14 I 3 j GO 29 : 127 15 to 20 set. 25 15 20 set ! Carding and over. I mills. 60 : 103 1 37 - 28 1 . 18 1 30 -7 GEOaBAPHICAL LOCATION OF THE INDUSTRY. The American wool laauufiicture, during the period in which the household branch of it predominated, was scattered over wide sections of tlie country and into remote and inaccessible dii-tricts. This was naturally the case at a time when so large a proportion of the population literally made their own clothing, from the growing of the raw material to the weaving of the goods. Two causes tended to make the custoui carding mill the genesis of the modern factory, and the wool mamifasture of to-day is an evolution from the household industry to a degree and in a sense unknown in any other textile manufacture. These causes were the necessity of locating upon a stream for w^ater power and the advantage of being near the supply of the raw material. The custom carding mill found its patronage in districts where the flocks abounded. As it developed into the primitive- woolen factory, it was still a great advantage to be near the sheep, for transportation was difficult and costly. In; the case of the early mill at Oriskany (New York), a large iiock of merino sheep imported, owned, and cared for by the mill owners, was one of the adjuncts of the manufacture. As the flocks spread in the new states, the mills were planted in their midst, and not clustered in a few centprs, as in Europe. a Exclusive of carding mills. TEXTILES— WOOL. 15- This diffusion of the industry over wide areas is brought out strongly in the earliei'ceususes, and" its modem tendency to gradual concentration is a most important deduction to be drawn from the present census. Ohio, in 1870, tlieu our largest wool- growing state, reported 230 woolen mills, with 334 sets of machinery, distributed throughout the state. In 1890 the number of mills in Ohio had fallen tollS and their machinery capacity to 112 sets. These Ohio mills were brought into existence by the proximity of the raw materialj and they formerly used only the wool grown in their immediate neighborhood. What was true of ^'^'^ Brazil ---- 175,697 Cjiili 1, 634, 953 CMna".'.'.'.'-".'-"-'- - 8,704,983 Danish West Indies 357 Greenland, Iceland, etc 64,104 Ecuador - 1, 087 France - 2,198,996 Germany - '^18, 572 Enoland - --- 5,193,817 | Turkey in Africa 154,826 POUNDS. Italy 444 Dutch West Indies 14, 984 Portugal 339, 956 Russia on Baltic and White sea 3, 397, 982 Russia on Black sea 10, 594, 887 Russia, Asiatic 204. 339 Russia (uot specified) 1, 362, 293 Servia 28, 381 Spain 32, 837 Switzerland 35, 685 Turkey in Europe 1,733,619 Turkey in Asia 12, 474, 352 Turkey (not specified) 94,023 Uruguay 84, 569 Asia, another 3,969,331 Country not specified 264, Oil Scotland 5,144,822 British West Indies 32, 793 British East Indies 6, 635, 751 East Indies (not specified) 1,295,723 British possessions in Australasia 21, 237 i The imports of merino wools (Class 1 of the tarifi' classification) have been quite steadily increasing of late years, and the average imports since the earlier years under the tariff of 1867 have been very large. The imports of combing wools show remarkable fluctuations during the earlier years of the period, but latterly they show no tendency to increase. These imports, which consist mainly of the English combing wools, have fallen off in consequence of the perfecting of the combing machine, which permits the combing of the shorter stapled merino wools in the worsted manufacture, with better results, except in special fabrics, than can be obtained from the long English combing wools. Of the Class I wools imported and used by our manufacturers the great bulk, 77 per cent, are of Australasian production, as is shown by the table following, compiled from the Treasury reports, which gives the quantities of Class I wools imported, directly or intlirectly, from each foreign country during the fiscal year 1889-1890. TEXTILES— WOOL. 33 •QUANTITY OF CLOTHING WOOL IMPORTED AT THE THEEE PRINCIPAL PORTS INTO THE UNITED STATES DURING THE -i'EAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1890, SHOWING COUNTRY OF PRODUCTION. I POCNDS. Total 15,492,107 Austrahisia 11, 928, 921 Europe 1, 271, 510 England 884,807 France 262, 333 Spain 91,460 Turkey 24, 868 Germany 7, 199 Scotland 509 Russia 334 South America 1, 166, 890 South America — Continued. pounds. Argentine Republic 168, 355 Uruguay 144, 239 Brazil 67, 981 Peru 2, 740 Africa 1, 105, 730 British jiossessions 1, 102, 793 All others 2, 937 Asia 18, 056 China 10, 456 Turkey 3,800 All others 3, 800 Chile 783,575 West Indies 1,000 The development of wool production in the United States, while it has been on the whole rather rapid, has not been comparable with that which has been simultaneously occurring iji Australasia, South America, and the Uape colonies, and has undoubtedly been somewhat retarded by the effect of the increase in these countries upon the prices of wool everywhere. Marked and important changes have occurred in the general characteristics of our domestic supply. The rapid increase in the supply of what are known as the " territorial " wools, grown west of the Mississippi river, generally upon ranches, somewhat after the methods pursued in Australia, has had a tendency to check the increase in the clip of the finer wools that have so long been the peculiar product and glory of the middle western states. Of the staple wools now produced in the United States, we have eminent authority for saying that they " are better adapted to the fabrication of satisfactory clothing for the American people than any other wools grown". All goods which require the medium wool are admirably supplied by domestic fleeces, which are nowhere .surpassed for uniform, sound, and healthy fiber. Of the superfine wools the domestic flocks now supi^ly little to tlie domestic manufacture. That these wools can be grown in certain sections of this country has been amply demonstrated, as in the superfine wools of Saxon blood which formerly brought such high reputation to Washington county, Pennsylvania. Tliat they will not be grown, in commercial quantities, is evident from the fact that these sheep are small sized, small fleeced, and comparatively unproductive, and their fleeces can not now command ])rices which will render them a profitable branch of sheep husbandry. The supply of fine wools of the XX and XXX. grades, for which the flocks of Ohio, Michigan, and Pennsylvania have been noted, is falling steadily behind the demand, and it is to supply this deficiency that the increasing importations of Australian wools are due. The fineness, length, and soundness of staple in these Australian wools, together with their remarkable freedom from grease, render them admirable for admixture, where high-grade goods are to be manufactured. In such goods the domestic fleece is relied upon for strength and durability, and the Australian for fineness, brightness, and beauty of finish. In the somewhat circumscribed area covering a few counties in southeastern Ohio, and .contiguous sections of Pennsylvania and West Virginia, a limited number of sheep may still be found producing a wool from which goods may be made fully equal in every respect to those manufactured wholly or in part from Australian fleeces. The specific qualities of wool which enter into the manufacture of the fabrics now chiefly made in the United States were indicated by the late John L. Hayes, in 1872, in a paper prepared for the Department of Agriculture. as follows : Common flannels involve a very important consumption of wools, from the coarsest common or native to medium merino wools • opera flannels, from fine to very finest wools ; blankets, from the most ordinary Mexican to noils (the shorter or refuse fibers obtained by the process of combing the best combing wools), up to the medium merino wools; also the shorter wools of English blood, such as the down and cheviot wools. Shawls, the principal varieties, embrace all grades of merino wool up to pick-lock; some special varieties being composed of worsted combing wools; felts, generally the lowest grades of wools, but some varieties of felting, such as piano and table covers, medium merino wool. Knit goods, such as knit shirts, vests, skirts, drawcr-s. cardigans, bose, involve a very important consumption of wool, from the lowest to high grades of merino, certain fancy varieties, composed of worsted yarns, requiring English combing wools. Fancy cassimeros, occupying a prominent place in the list of fabrics, recjuire all grades of merino wool, without burr l)rincipall}' medium; overcoatings, such as beavers, moscows, eskimos, medium to finest grades of merino wool. For all mixtures of wool with shoddy, the best and the longest merino wools are now regarded as the most profitable, for the reason that they "carry" more of the short fiber of the wool substitute. Thin wool coatings require from medium to the finest merino wools, fancy ladies' oloakings, the finest lonj;- merino wools, and, in some varieties, mohair, or the wool of the Angora goat; gentlemen's worsted coatino-s the linest long merino combing wools. For certain varieties of delaines, coburgs, and cashmeres, ladies' dress goods, with cotton warp, medium long merino wools are used; for Caledonia ladies' cloakings, a limited use is made of mixtures of fine, long combing wools and Ennlisli (T Canada combing wools; for serges, moreens, alpacas, Italian cloth for linings, mohair lusters, lastings, damask for furniture 1>457 3 34 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. for furniture coveriug, curtains and table cloths, reps for furniture and curtains, webbing for reius and girths for lio^fies and fon suspenders, bunting for flags, military sashes, picture cords and tassels, clouds or nubias, Eistoria shawls, braidg and biddings, long English combing or Canada wools are required ; for the warp of ingrain 2 and 3 ply carpets, the long carpet wools of Cordova and Chile, unsuited by their coarseness and unequal diameter for dress goods, are employed, the short wools for filling, and fo^ the clueaper carpets tlie short and coarse Mexican and Texan wools; for Brussels and tapestry, and Brussels and vehet carpets, the Jong Cordova and Chile carpet wools are used for the colored yarns, the warp being of linen ; for the whites or very light slj^cles, the best Pngliah or Canada combing wools. Eeturning to the consideration of the total quantity of wool consumed in the wool manufacture, we have to bear in mind that camel's hair, mohair, and alpaca are regarded in the trade as the equivalents, the first of Class 3, or carpet wools, and the others of superior grades of Class 2, or combing wools. The quantity of camel's hair and noils consumed has increased from 1,583,119 pounds in 1880 to 7,684,804 pounds in 1890, and of mohair and noils from 159,678 pounds in 1880 to 2,136,244 pounds in 1890. The alpaca has been lost in the "hair of other animals", which is in tlie main an adulterant, and the consumption of which has increased frou;i 6,335,169 pounds to 16,865,764 pounds. The tables presented take no cognizance of the quantity of wool contained in the imported yarns consumed by American manufacturers, the value of which is included in the amounts reported under the head " All other materials". The quantity of woolen and worsted yarn entei-ed for consumj)tiou in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1890 was 3,229,777.83 pounds, valued at $1,844,849.15, foreign value, an average of 57.12 cents per pound, and may be accounted the equivalent of 9,000,000 pounds of greasy wool. Adding these items and the 373,000,000 pounds of foreign and domestic wool in condition purchased shown in the tables, together with the 25,000,000 pounds estimated by the special agent as the a-Uowance for the scoured wool purchased, we have an approximate consumption of 434,000,000 joounds of wool iu the grease. Similar additions would need to be made to the consumption reported in 1880 to institute an, exact coauparison and percentage of increase. We are thus enabled to ascertain with some degree of certainty the per capita consumi)tion of wool in the United States for a series of decades, as shown by census statistics, and by the Treasury returns of the imports of woolen goods. In estimating the amount of raw wool contained in the latter, it is customary to calculate three pounds of wool to each dollar in value of woolen goods. On this basis we make the following table : COMPARATIVE CONSUMPTION OF WOOL IN THE UNITED gTATj^^.S, 1840 1850 38I30 1870 1880 1890 Imports of wool entered for consump- tion year end- ing; June 30. (Pounds.) (ft) 69,813,212 18, 695, 294 26, 125, 891 38, 634, 067 99, 372, 440 109, 902, 105 Home produc- tion of wool year ending Jan. 1. (Pounds.) 35, 802, 114 52, 510, 969 60. 264, 913 162, 000, 000 232, 500, 000 276, 000, 000 Domestic exports. (Pounds.) 35, 898 1, 055, 928 162, 892 191, 551 231, 042 Set sujiply. (Pounds.) 4.->. 015, 326 71, 176, 365 85, 334, 876 200, 481, 175 331, 680. 88!) 385, 671, 063 Imports of wool manufac-. tures, allowing 3 pounds of wool to the $1 in value. (Pounds.) Per capjta, consumption of wool, (Pouii4s.) a Quantities for 1840, 1850, aud 1860 are imports less re-export.--. 31, 095, 276 58, 178, 613 128, 497, 923 103,289,422 95, 503, 641 162, 496, 269 h Tear ending September 30. 4.49 5.58 6,80 7.93 8.52' 8.75 This per capita consumption of wool is larger than that of any otlier nation on the globe. The manufacturers'- consumption of wool in Great Britain is slightly in excess of that in the United Sta,tes, but when the exports of manufactured wool are deducted, and proper allowance is made for imported manufactures, it is discovered that the domestic consumption of wool in Great Britain is equivalent to about 262,000,000 pounds, which is a per capita consumption of 6.9 pounds. No other country approxiniates Great Britain and the United States in its per capita wool consumption. COMPARISON OF THE A:\1ERICAN AND ENGLISH WOOL MANUFACTURE. The preceding statistics reveal a striking disparity between the consuming capacity of woolen and worsted! machinery in the United States aud the corresponding capacity in Great Britain. In the latter country, according to the official returns under the "factory aud workshop act", there were 0,479,252 spindles (spinning and doubling) at work iu the wool manufacture in 1889, consuming, as shown by the statistics of Helmuth Schwart/.e & Co., 428,000,000 pounds of wool, that being the quantity of foreign and home grown wool retained for consumption in the United Kingdom in that year. This was an average consumption of about 60 pounds of raw wool per spindle. In the United States 2,986,423 woolen aud worsted spindles consumed raw wool to the approximate amount, as shown above, of 134,000,000 pounds in the greasy state, an average cousum|)tiou of 145 pounds per spindle. Thc-sc figures are of no value for any scientiiic purpose, first, because tliey are based upon the. consumption iu the grease, and second, because they take no account of the other materials, such as cotton aud shoddy, which pass. TEXTILES— WOOL. 35 over the cards and are spun with the wool. They will serve to indicate in a general way the radical di£ference that exists in the industry as conducted in the United States and in Great Britain. It is the same difference that appears in the cotton industries of the two countries. It has been shown that the average consumption of cotton per spindle in the United States is more than twice the average spindle consumption in Great Britain. In other words, the identical disparity of consumption, as betweentlie two countries^ exists in both the cotton and the wool manufacture. To some degree it is attributable to the same causes in botlt industries. These causes, as they aj^pear in the wool manufacture, may be summarized as follows: (1) The bulk of the yarns spun in Great Britain are of finer counts than the bulk of the yarns spun in the- United States. (2) In the United States the woolen manufacture still largely predominates over the worsted manufacture,, emjdoying 2,329,099 sinndles to 657,324 spindles in the latter. A woolen spindle, from the nature of the yarn, will consume annually at least double the quantity of wool that will be consumed by a worsted spindle. In Great Britain, on the contrary, the worsted manufacture is very nearly as large as the woolen, employing 2,402,922; spiuiung spindles and 669,328 doubling spindles as compared with 3,107,209 spinning spindles and 299,793 doubling spindles in the woolen manufacture. These statistics of the relative number of spindles employed in the twO' branches of the industry in the two countries are sufficient in themselves to explain the greater average- consumption per spindle in the United States. (3) The quantity of carpets manufactured in the United States is largely in excess of the British product of carpets, and the much coarser yarn used in this branch of the industry has an important bearing upon the question and further explains the discrepancy. (4) A fourth cause, to which some weight must be attached, lies in the fact that the domestic wool of the United States is marketed, as a rule, in a more greasy condition than the wool consumed in the British mills. There is much more of actual wool, and less of grease and dirt, in the raw material reported as the consumption of British mills than in that consumed by our own mills. This fact should also be borne in mind in considering the per capita consumption of the people of the two countries as given above. The above explanations of this discrepancy were submitted by the special agent to Dr. Frederick H. Bowman,, of Halifax, England, the well-known expert on wool fibers, and elicited from him the following response : West Mount, Halifax, September 21, 189r„ S. N. D. North, Esq., Special Agent, Eleventh Census : Dear Sir : In reply to your favor of the 31st August, I hare myself been struck with the same anomaly which you have awticed inj regard to the very much larger quantity of wool which is used in the United States in comparison with the number of spindles as compared with the consumption of wool and the number of spindles in Great Britain. I do not think there is any doubt but that the. largest portion of this increased consumption arises from the very much coarser counts which are spun on the average in the United. States as compared with Great Britain, and also I think in your factories there is more waste made in ])roportion to the quantity of yarui turned out as compared with this country. I know this is the case very markedly in your cotton mills, and I suppose the same will. probably hold good in your woolen factories. When you remember there are very large numbers of mills in this country employing' a,' larger number of spindles, where the counts probably average 60's and upward, you will easily see that a very large number of spindles. are required to turn off a very small consumption of wool (and I think the main cause of the discrepancy lies here). Possiblyalso your- statistics may hot be quite so reliable as our own, and there is undoubtedly a tendency on the part of many manufacturers to exaggerate^ the (lUiintity of wool which they use, with the idea of making it appear they have a large consumption off their spindles, and this may^ also increase the discrepancy. Otherwise, I know of no reasons why, if the same counts are spun, you should not be able to use as smair a quantity of the raw material as we do in this country. Trusting that this reply will be satisfactory, I remain, yours, truly, Frederick H. Bowman. MOHAIR. The use of mohair, the hair of the Angora goat, is of recent date and limited extent in the United' States.. In 1880 the use of but 159,678 pounds was reported. In 1890 the consumption had risen to 2,136,244 pounds,, valued at $848,533. These figures are singularly confirmed by the commercial statistics, the Mcifaughtan, Company, of New York, reporting the consumption for 1891 at 2,405,538 pounds and for 1890 at 2, 147,019 pounds. Of the total consumption reported for 1890, the McXaughtan Company ascertained that 1,785,173 pounds were f)f foreign growth and 361,846 pounds domestic. Considerable attention has recently been paid to the cultivation of this fiber in the Pacific states, and the rapid increase m its use by our manufacturers will have a tendency to further stimulate the industry. The native home of the Angora goat is the mountainous districts of Asia Minor, where soil and climate are peculiarly favorable to the growth of the long, strong, and silky fiber of thp Angora. The goat has been introduced into the Ca^ie colonies, where, mixed with the native African goat, it produces a. fleece which is equal to the native mohair, and large quantities of it are now annually exported to England. Dr. Bowman, the distinguished authority on animal fibers, is of opinion that its cultivatioTi in the United States can be successfully extended in " suitable position". The ini'reased consumi^tion of this fiber is due to the increased manufacture of plush and upholstery goods and other pile fabrics, velvets, astrakhans, etc., both plain and figured, for which it is now chiefly employed. Prior 36 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. to 1880 the use of this fiber had been considerably in excess of the quantity consumed in that year, due to the popularity of the hard finished luster fabrics known as alpacas, mohairs, and brilliantines, the manufacture of which was successfully undertaken by several American mills only to be followed by the complete disuse of these goods and their disappearance from popular favor. The fiber has the aspect, feel, and luster of silk, without its suppleness. It differs materially from wool in the absence of the felting quality, and its consumption for (jlothing purposes has been and is likely always to be limited. Because of the stiffness of the fiber it is rarely woven alone, the warp being usually of cotton, silk, or wool. Its utilization in the machine manufacture dates only from the year 1835, and the mohair of commerce is nearly all consumed by a comparatively few manufacturers. camel's hair and noils. Camel's hair is coming to play an important part in the domestic wool manufacture. The total consumption increased from 1,583,119 pounds in 1880 to 7,684,804 pounds in 1890. It is only recently that camel's hair has been utilized as a textile material for machine manufacture, and up to 1885 its employment was confined chiefly to the mixture with various low stock for backing in beavers and other similar goods, and for press bagging. In that year the Abbot worsted mills, at Graniteville, Massachusetts, began the use of camel's hair as the material for worsted yarns for carpet warp, and they succeeded in making a product so strong and perfect that its introduction followed as quickly as certain difl&culties in dyeing were overcome, and the increased use of the material is confined to this product. It is difiicult to sort the fine downy undercoat peculiar to camel's hair from the long coarse hair which overlies it, except by the combing process. ALPACA. Very little alpaca is now used in the United States, and no attempt has been made to secure a return of it. The alpaca from which this fiber is obtained, is exclusively South American, and is found in the lofty ranges of the Andes,- where the llama and vicugna are the most common varieties. It is especially adapted to the use of the cotton warp, and light-weight dress goods so made are among the handsomest fabrics. In the large variety of plush and upholstery goods for which the industry has become noted in this country in very recent years these fibers play an important part, which promises to increase rapidly. WOOL IN COMBINATION WITH OTHER FIBERS. Wool is the one textile fiber which can be advantageously used in combination with all other fibers in the manufacture of all classes of goods. It is so used to an extent which is constantly increasing in all countries, and which adds greatly to the difSculty of a jjroper classification of textile establishments for census purposes. In the dress goods manufacture particularly so large a proportion of the product is made upon cotton warps with a wool or worsted filling that many establishments conduct separate departments for the manufacture of cotton yarn, wbich is used in the products of their worsted mills. Heretofore the statistics of these cotton departments of worsted mills have been counted as a part of the worsted industry. In the present census the returns of the cotton branch of such mills have been separately secured and they are included in the statistics of the cotton manufacture, the value of the yarns made being transferred to the wool manufacture under the head of cotton yarns purchased in the tables of materials used. The mills whose returns were thus divided between the wool and the cotton manufacture were the Arlington and Pacific, at Lawrence, Massachusetts; the Lorraine Company, at Pawtucket, Rhode Island; the Hamilton Company, at Southbridge, Massachusetts; the New Albany Woolen and Cotton •Company, at ISTew Albany, Indiana; the Mississippi Mills, at Wesson, Mississippi, and all mills making simply "hosiery yarns for sale to knit goods-manufacturers. In no other cases was it found possible to make this separation, ;and all other mills using wool and cotton together have been counted as woolen mills, and properly, as wool is .always the predominating material used, in value if not in quantity. While all textile mills may be classed according to the fiber used which predominates in value, it is obvious that this classification is open to objection, and that it becomes every year a grouping more difftcult to make. Wool is not mixed with cotton to any extent in goods which are sold as cotton goods, it being a raw material of so much greater value. On the other hand, wool is used in mixture with silk, in goods where the silk effect is retained. The use of silk threads to give brilliancy and effect to patterns is increasing in the manufacture of fine worsteds, as is shown by the employment of 244,306 pounds of silk yarn and 131,529 pounds of spun silk yarn, -together valued at $1,986,402. This is the first census to show the silk consumption of the wool manufacture. Linen is used as a warp thread in certain lines of carpets, but no longer in any species of cloths, although the fabric known as ''linsey-woolsey", a wool weft woven upon a linen warp (or a cotton warp) was a staple product of the household industry in the eighteenth century and earlier. The quantity of linen yarn used in the carpet manufacture in 1890 was 10,123,816 pounds, valued at $1,621,293. Jute also appears to a limited extent in the manufacture of carpets, the total number of pounds of jute yarn reported as consumed in the year 1890 being 23,795,444 pounds, valued at $1,709,461. Some efforts have lately been made to utilize the fiber of the ramie plant, as a suitable mixture with wool, with results that are pronounced favorable; but these efforts have not yet passed beyond the experimental stage. TEXTILES— WOOL. 37 COTTON IN THE WOOL MANTJFACTUKE. The quantity of cotton used in the wool manufacture has increased rapidly. There passed through these mills in 1890 75,428,865 pounds of cotton, valued at $8,568,149, in compaiison with 48,000,857 pounds in 1880, valued at $6,233,175. Of the quantity consumed in 1890, however, 32,432,617 pounds were for use in the hosiery and knit goods industry, chieiiy in merino or pure cotton stockings and underwear. Moreover, it will appear from an examination of the summary of goods made, included under the head of "All other products" that a very large percentage of the goods made in woolen mills are purely cotton products, and, if a strict classification were possible, they would be included in the report on cotton manufacture. This is due to the fact that many mills, in their machinery equipment, are both woolen and cotton mills, and are classified as woolen mills because the preponderance of their machinery and the bulk of their products pertain to that industry. In this respect, the wool manufacture differs from the other textile industries, a difference arising primarily out of the fact that wool is a fiber that can be worked to advantage in combination with either or all of the other fibers, and is so worked, to an increasing degree and to increasing public advantage, while cotton is never combined with wool as the predominating fiber in imparting character to the fabric, outside of hosiery and knit goods, and silk only to a comparatively limited degree. The mixed textile so called is chiefly one in which wool predominates or appears to predominate. It is becaxrse of this interchangeable use of the fibers that so many woolen mills are equipped with cotton machinery. It appears from the analysis that products valued in the neighborhood of $3,000,000 were all cotton goods^ sold as such, as, for Instance, cotton yarns, cottonades, cotton jeans, cotton fire hose, cotton dusters, cotton piece goods, ginghams, cotton shirting, and other similar goods which have only found their way into the products of the wool manufacture from the impossibility of separating the cotton products of a woolen mill from its woolen products, in a census return which must take cognizance of products in connection with all the other items of the schedule of inquiry. Cotton is used in two forms in the wool manufacture: first, as the cotton warp, and second, in the making of a merino yarn, so called, in which the cotton is mixed with the wool on the carding machine and passes into the slubbing, out of which is spun a yarn for a cheap grade of goods. Undoubtedly the development of machinery has greatly increased the manufacture and consumption of these classes of goods. The quantity made in the census year is shown in Table 4 to have been 250,931,270 square yards, valued at $87,092,047, figures 'which indicate that it is a means of supplying a cheap grade of goods which possess many of the advantages of woolen cloths, and are a great improvement over the all-cotton goods which were largely worn in the early days of the machine manufacture. Cotton warp woolen goods are as old as the machine manufacture of wool. The details of the wool manufacture of 1820 show that the woolen mills of that day made an almost equal use of cotton and wool in the fabrication of the cheaper grades of cloths, chiefly satinets and jeans. Its use in lighter goods for women's wear is of comparatively modern origin, and, with the exception of hosiery and knit goods, it is in this branch of the industry that the increased use of cotton has chiefly come. The manufacture ofthis class offabrics first began in France, about 1833. The English adopted the manufacture at Bradford in 1834-1835, and have since surpassed all other countries in the quality and quantity of these products. The late John L. Hayes, in the official report on wool fabrics at the Philadelphia Exposition of 1876, writes that No 6\eiit of the century has done more for female comfort and for the industry of wool than the introduction of the cotton warp. Cotton, instead of being the rival, became the most important auxiliary of wool, and has added vastly to its consumption. These fabrics are practically the same as a woolen fabric, being so covered by wool that the presence of cotton can be observed only by the closest inspection. Their cheapness and durability mate their introduction an invaluable boon to women of moderate means. In addition to the cotton used on cards and spindles in woolen mills, there were 83,624,868 pounds of cotton yarns purchased by these mills for the manufacture of the fabrics above described, and for the hosiery and knit- goods manufacture. Only a small proportion of these yarns were consumed in other branches of the industry. The cost of these yarns was $17,985,376, which, added to the $8,568,149, the cost of raw cotton, makes $26,553,525, the value of the cotton and cotton yarns consumed in the wool industry, as against a value of $98,540,484 for the foreign and domestic wool consumed. SHODDY AND OTHER SUBSTITUTES FOE WOOL. In treating the raw material of the wool manufacture we come next to the substitutes, so called, whicli are popularly grouped under the generic name of shoddy, but which are all of them, in the scientific sense, the wastes of the original raw material. For the first time in a census the shoddy manufacture has been investigated in connection with the wool manufacture, to which it is so intimately related as to render it practically a part of the same industry. In presenting the statistics pains have been taken not to blend them, in order that there might be accurate comparisons instituted between the returns for this and other census years. The census of 1860 was the first. 38 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. "which took cognizance of the shoddy manufacture as a distinct and important industry. 1870 presented the following statistics of the industry : The censuses of 1860 and GENERAL HEADS. 1860 Number of establishments Employes Capital "Wages Materials Products 30 290 $123, 500 $54, 121 $227, 925 $402, 590 56 632 $815, 950 $198, 372 $1, 098, 603 $1, 768, 592 The volume on manufactures, census of 1880, gave a more detailed statement of the shoddy industry, and the figures there presented are sho"wn in comparison with those of 1890 in the following table: COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF SHODDY MANUFACTURE : 1880 AND 1890. STATES. Tear. Number of es- tabUsh- ments. Capital. AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOTtS. Total wages. Cost of materials used. .$3, 366, 050 6, 003, 035 Value of products. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Children. Total for United States ^ Connecticut ( Illinois \ Maine \ 1880. 1890 73 94 $1, 165, 100 o3, 754, 063 695 1,394 496 867 91 38 $400, 326 856, 582 $4, 989, 615 7, 887, 000 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1S90 8 7 2 3 86, 000 396, 336 22, 000 110.0.37 93 154 16 41 4 38 18 12 73 1 8 8 3 35, 345 85,816 12, 300 36, 254 1,905 261, 200 442, 852 74, 500 103,722 7,200 347, 500 648, 060 100, 000 182 no 12,000 1 1 6, 000 3 1880 1890 1 5,000 5 4 6 3,100 ! 14,150 22, 500 Massajjbusetts ] j gg" 30- 99 400, 500 902, 850 17, 300 23, 000 35, 000 193, 225 32, 700 482, 620 250, 000 744, 530 186, 000 640 382 334 329 13 26 10 74 43 159 30 191 90 248 51 105 106 8 32 173,439 ; 1,308,715 180, 748 1 . 1 70. SfiS 2, 305, 985 1, 614, 459 49, 600 111, 848 137, 500 369. 640 407, 590 471, 478 700, 000 1, 377, 500 655,895 1, 633, 770 195, 046 1, 350, 792 56, 000 S 1880 i 3 New Hampshire ^ ^^^^^^^ i ^ 2 5,700 11,683 25, 000 43, 755 33,610 77,361 40, 000 182, 700 47, 441 151, 175 IS, 59(1 68, 014 3,896 38, 900 80, 816 80, 734 301, 113 321, 220 343, 012 576, 000 1, 100, 480 510, 977 1, 205, 258 137, 054 1, 165, 235 37, 000 Xew Jersey | New Torlc \ Ohio \ Pennsylvania < 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 12 3 11 la 5 49 32 27 216 485 40 91 26 3 9 15 4 3 6 20 13 1880 i 6 49,600 6 Vermont ! All other states < 1880 1890 1880 1890 2 15, 000 6 5 67, 933 30 15 19, 076 83,679 107, 343 a This amount does not include value of "Hired property ". Table 17 presents the statistics for the year 1890 more in detail. Many of the products of these shoddy mills •are not shoddy as a raw material for other mills, but finished goods composed chiefly of shoddy, l^or was all the shoddy consumed in the census year produced in the mills which are classified as shoddy mills. The tables show the total production of these latter mills to have been 37,002,054 pounds, while the total consumption of the census year in the wool manufacture was 61,561,619 pounds, an increase of 18.02 per cent over the consumption of 1880. The difference, 24,559,565 pounds, was manufactured in the woolen mills consuming it. The increase in the manufacture of shoddy, mungo, and similar substitutes, as shown by the tables, both as to quantity and value, has been somewhat in excess of the increase in the wool manufacture proper. This is a natural and expected result, for the reason that the use of these substitutes, with the success which has attended their utUizatiou abroad, has only recently been thoroughly understood by American manufacturers. Shoddy was first sucoessftilly employed as a substitute for wool at Batley, in England, about the year 1813; but it was not until 1840 that its manufacture was so perfected that it became a considerable and a distinctly recognized branch of the -industry. TEXTILES— WOOL. 39 In bWi OWn icotiiltry these substitutes are chiefly consumed in tlie manufacture of yarns for low-grade carpets and knit goodS) for horse blankets, and some of the cheaper grades of bed blankets, and also in cheap grades of satinetS) eassimefes, and heavy overcoatings. The returns show that of the 61,561,619 pounds used in 1890 51,862,397 pounds ^erfe consuimed in the woolen mills proper, and of the remainder nearly half, or 4,735,144 poilndS) ill the hosiery and knit goods mills. An analysis of the returns shows that a very considerable proportion of the 51)863,397 pbiinds asctibed to the woolen mills was utilized in the manufacture of carpet yarns, and would therefore be eredited to that branch of the industry, if the conditions of the investigation permitted the subclasSiflcation. When due allowance is made for the increased use of these substitutes in carpets, it is found that the increased Use of them in goods designed for wearing ax)parel has been no greater than the increased consumption of wool for the same purpose. The same remark applies to the increased consumption of cow's hair and other animal hairS which belong in the category of substitutes for wool. Dischssion of the question of the deterioration of the American wool manufacture, by reason of an increasing use of these various substitutes for wool, including cotton, arose in connection with the preliminary publication of these figures. For the purpose of exactly ascertaining the facts the following analyses of the tables have been prepared, showing the percentage of the several materials consumed in the years 1880 and 1890. From this table the statistics Of hosiery and knit goods have necessarily been excluded, inasmuch as a large proportion of the products of these mills is purely a cotton product and makes no pretense of being anything else. The increased constimJJtion of cotton in these goods can not therefore be regarded as an increase which displaces an equal amount of wool; The table is as follows : QUANtltlES AND PERCENTAGES OF SCOURED WOOL OR ITS EQUIVALENTS, AND OF COTTON, SHODDY, ANIMAL HAlE, AND OTHER SO-CALLED ADULTERANTS OF WOOL, USED IN THE MANUFACTURE IN 1890 AND 1880. MATEKIALS. Total - Scoured wool, including camels hair and moliaii' , Cotton Shoddy and animal hair not specified 1890 (Pounds.) 207, 584, 746 42, 996, 248 73, 678, 066 1880 (Pounds.) 252, 474, 545 167,634,157 27, 869, 706 56, 970, 682 1890 1880 (Percent.) (Percent.) 100. 00 64.02 13.26 22.72 100. 00 66.40 11.04 22.50 It will be seen that the percentage of shoddy and adulterant hairs used in 1890 is almost identical M'ith the percentage used in 1880. The comparison shows an increase of 2.22 per cent in the relative percentage of cotton consumed (exclusive of cotton yarns purchased). This increase is not surprising in view of the great decline in the cost of cotton and the enormous increase in the domestic production of cotton warp dress goods. In a general sense, it may be said that no substitute for wool is equal to wool itself, and any use of any other material, in the wool manufacture, may therefore be called a deterioration. On the other hand, it is true that a quality of clothing can be manufactured by their use wliich is warm, serviceable, and attractive in appearance, and is furnished at prices which would be impossible but for the substitutes. The consequence is that since the use of these substitutes came into vogue tlie masses of the people have been more healthfully and more satisfactorily clothed than formerly. There is not wool enough jiiowii in the world to suiDply the needs of all the people who are dependent upon it for suitable clothing, and the fact that, tlie per capita consumption of wool in the United States is greater than in any other country may be accepted as demonstrating that our people utilize more than their full quota of the sup])ly. The use of substitutes has permitted wool to i)artially take the place of cotton to a greater or less degree in many articles of apparel, and to this extent at least it is a distinct gain and advantage. This is particularly the case in stuffs intended for women's wear. More than half the cotton used in the wool manufacture is used for cotton warp threads, in goods having a wool or worsted filling, and this class of goods has largely taken the place of cotton goods, which alone were formerly available for the wear of women of limited means. Shoddy, in its several varieties, is simply a remanufactured fiber, possessing many of its original advantages, though of course not all of them. The fiber of wool has an extraordinary capacity of endurance. Once used it may be used over and over again, not with all its original virtues, but with its warmth-imparting qualities intact. A large proportion of the shoddy consumed in this country is simjily the waste of the original manufacture, saved from the loss which befell it prior to the invention of machinery which renders it fit for spinning. In carding, spinning, and weaving certain fibers become tangled, knotted, separated from the slubbing, top, or yarn, and are thrown off'. This new machinery permits this waste product to l)e spun again. The only point at which this material is deficient, as compared with that from which it has been thrown off, is in length of staple, and this diiflcultv is easily overcome by admixture with new wool. The other varieties of shoddy are now produced by powerful machines of comparatively recent date, whioh pull ;i})ait the woolen or worsted rags which are fed upon it and effect a gradual untwisting of the fibers. JVIuiigi), made from hard spun or felted cloth, is necessarily of very short iiber, by rea-^o;: of the tension required 40 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. to pull it apart. Wool extract is manufactured from rags into the composition of which cotton or linen has- entered, and from which the vegetable fiber is removed by carbonization, and this is the least valuable variety of these restored fibers. The value of all of them is largely dependent upon the skill with which their subsequent manufacture is conducted. Some varieties of shoddy have a value, both intrinsically and in the market, greater than that of low grades of wool. The average value of the shoddy consumed in 1890, according to the census returns, was 11.26 cents, as against an average value in 1880 of 15.42 cents. The reduction in the cost of shoddy used has therefore been somewhat greater than in the cost of wool, which is not surprising in view of the fact that the machinery for the manufacture of shoddy has been very greatly improved during the past ten years and the knowledge of its proper use greatly advanced. DYESTtlFFS AND CHEMICALS. A very large item of expenditure in the wool manufacture is that for dyestuffs and chemicals used in the preparation of materials and the finishing of goods. The census of 1880 showed a cost of $7,648,618 for dyestuffs and chemicals, while that for 1890 shows a cost of $6,453,665 exclusive of oils and soap, which are now separately reported but which were included under the general head in 1880. The corresponding total for 1890 is, therefore, $9,146,917. Both oil and soap are important chemical agencies in the manipulation of wool in the preparatory stages of its manufacture. Of oil, 4,243,618 gallons were used, valued at $1,374,049. Much of this oil was consumed for fuel and lubricating machinery, and no distinction is made of the more expensive oils used in the preparatory processes of wool manipulation. Of the 39,290,827 pounds of soap used, value, $1,319,203, the greater portion was emi)loyed in the cleansing of material and product. The dyeing processes for woolen and worsted goods may take place in the clean stock, in the worsted top, in the yarn, or in the piece, according to the characteristics of the fabric to be made. The fancy cassimere, the high-grade carpets, dress goods, and special fabrics of other varieties of goods are made with yarns dyed in conformity with the patterns to be woven; and in large establishments, particularly carpet mills, whose assortment of patterns is extensive, large lines of colored yarns, often over a thousand shades, are kejit iu stock, considerably increasing the cost of manufacture. Wool is a better recipient of dyes than either cotton or silk, and in consequence the art of dyeing has greater possibilities in this manufacture than in any other textile industry. These possibilities have been greatly developed since the introduction of the coal-tar dyes, the increased and perfected use of which has been one of the striking- advances of the past decade. The most obvious result has been the almost endless multiplication of shades of coloring in all lines of fabrics, many of them of great delicacy, which has added a marvelous variety and picturesqueness to the products of the wool manufacture. The American dyers are becoming very expert in the use of the mineral dyes, and their work now compares very favorably, in the fineness and fastness of colors, with that of their European c(^mpetitor8. The use of the vegetable dyes has greatly diminished during the decade; but many of our best mills still adhere to them, particularly the indigo, for their best effects. Woolen goods receive and hold colors printed on them more readily than cotton goods, and the proportion among the light fabrics which are printed is large. The figured delaines and many of the figured worsted goods, scarfs, some descrijjtions of shawls, felt and woolen druggets, and the tapestry carpets, carriage robes, and many of the felt skirtings are printed. The process varies little from that employed in printing silk and cottou goods, the patterns and colors being applied either by blocks or by cylinders. EMPLOYES AND WAGES. The details of labor employed and wages paid in the wool manufacture are presented with a fullness in this census never before attempted, and are contained in Tables 11-14. These tables permit an accurate subdivision of the relative earnings of all classes, in each brauch of the industry, and without the misleading results which follow from averages obtained by grouping all classes, owners and managers, clerks and operatives, skilled and unskilled, lueceworkers and time workers, in any branch. The average number of employees in the industry during the census year was 219,132, of Mhom 3,103 were ofticers and firm members employed in productive labor or in supervision. The total employes were divided into 98,446 males above 16 years of age, 105,993 females above 15 years, and 14,693 children of both sexes. The number of males employed increased 30.46 per cent, the number of females 58.64 per cent, and the number of children decreased 23.81 per cent. The greater percentage of increase in the number of females employed shows the effect of improved machinery upon the personnel of mill operatives. Tlie tendency of these improvements is to lessen the physical exertion required in running the machinery, and thus to increase the efaciency of female labor. TEXTILES— WOOL. 41 The following table indicates the percentage of men, women, and children employed in the whole industry at the censuses of 1890 and 1880: EMPLOrfiS. Tears. Average number of employes. Per cent of total. Total rl89D (1880 f 1890 (1880 rl890 (1880 rl890 (1880 219, 132 161,557 Males 98, 446 75, 459 105, 993 66, 814 14, 693 19, 284 44.93 46.71 48.37 41.35 6.70 11.94 Children The decrease in the number of children employed is the most striking variation in the statistics of the two ■ censuses. It is to be attributed largely to the enactment of laws in the several states which throw greater restrictions around the employment of children. Of these children 12,948 were employed at weekly rates and ' 1,745 at piece rates. By dividing the total number of operatives employed in all branches of the industry into the total amount paid ' for wages we have an average of $349.84, further differentiated into an average of $461.12 for men, $273.41 for women, and $155.53 for children. In the averages thus obtained are included the salaries of officers and clerks,- and also the actual earnings of pieceworkers, which are frequently found to be less than the average earnings of skilled laborers, male and female. By a similar treatment of the wages and employes reported in 1880, we have an average of $293.33, showing an apparent increase in the a\erage earnings of all employes of 19.26 per cent iu the ten years. It is impossible to make separate averages of this description for men, women, and children employed in ±880, because the wages of each class were not then separately rex.)orted. While wages have increased in the interval the increase has not' been so large as the above percentage would indicate, and we are debarred, for the above reason, from any satisfactory determination of what the actual percentage of increase has been. The much smaller percentage of children now employed affords a partial explanation of the great apparent increase in average earnings. On the other hand, the percentage of men employed has decreased from 46.71 in 1880 to 44.93 in 1890, the increase in the ■ percentage of women employed being from 41.35 to 48.37. One explanation of the apparently excessive increase in average earnings lies in the fact that the number ^ of officers and clerks employed is much more closely reported in 1890 than was the case in 1880. The number in 1880 was 1,810, or one in every 89 employees. In 1890 the number is 5,273, or one in every 42 employes. The increase in the number of officers and clerks reported is 191.33 per cent, while the increase in all other classes of emj)loy6s is only 33.87 per cent. If we could separate the salaries paid to officers and clerks in 1880 from the wages of all other operatives, we should be able to ascertain what the actual average increase in the earnings of the latter was. At the same time the number of officers and clerks reported in either yeai' is so small, in comparison with the whole number, as to exert but a trivial influence upon the percentage of average earnings in either case. Neither were the conditions of the industry such in 1890 that the average time employed would be greater in this year. AVERAGE BAENINGS. Tables 11 and 12 give the actual average earnings for each class by itself, officers and firm members, clerks and salesmen, operatives and skilled labor, unskilled labor, and finally those employed on piecework, each class divided into males, females, and children, and each class shown both for the United States and for each separate state in each branch of the industry. These tables are therefore the proper index of average earnings, and the only proper index. They reveal the striking disparities which exist in the wages paid in the different sections of the country, and also in the different branches of the industry. Thus, in Massachusetts, the average weekly earnings of male operatives employed in the carpet manufacture were $9.11, in New Jersey $7.70, in New York $0.58, in Pennsylvania $10.29, and in Connecticut and llhode Island $9.16. The average earnings of females show the same disparity, running from $4.36 in New Jersey, to $7.61 in Pennsylvania. In woolen mills the average weekly earnings of males of the same class in Massachusetts were $8.63, in Pennsylvania $9.04, while female operatives in Massachusetts averaged to earn $6.42, and in Pennsylvania but $5.98. These variations in the averages are affected by varying conditions, as the varying number of hours actually employed, and aie not absolute averages on that account, although they are all calculated on the basis of 50 weeks' employment during the year. Still more striking disparities, known ta- 42 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. be in accord with'tlie'fadts,aiipear iu the similar averages for western and southern states. Thus Georgia shows average weekly earnings for males of $6.50; of females, $3.55; Indiana, males, $7.77; females, $4.34. These illustrations might bemiiltiplied indefinitely; and each student of the tables may pursue them through all classes, in every branch, and:for every state. These general deductions are established by the analysis: (1) That the carpet manufacture pays the highest average wages to both men and women, followed closely by the worsted manufacture. (2) That the hosieryand knitting mills pay the lowest average wages of any branch, due to the larger number ■ of females employed. (3) That wages in the wool manufacture are highest in Pennsylvania. (4) That of the New England states Maine pays the lowest average wages. (5) That wages are considerably lower in the soiith than in the west, and lower in the west than in the eastern and middle states. These deductions are sustained by another analysis of the tables given below, in which appears the actual ^average earningS'in-eachof the great manufacturing states, and also in typical western and southern states, of men, women, and i^children separated from ofi&cers and clerks, and also from pieceworkers. It would seem that these analyses present the fairest iudication of the actual earnings of the mass of the operatives for the several ; sections. It must 'be borne ■iu mind that these are average annual earnings as contrasted with average weekly "wages, and represent what^wa-s actually paid out in wages for the time employed. SUMMARY OF A'YEKASE -ANNUAL EARNINGS OF OPERATIVES IN THE PRINCIPAL MANUFACTURING STATES. CSOT INCLUDING OFFICEBS, FIRM MEMBERS, CLEEKS, OR PIECEWORKERS.) Maitie : Males Females — Children New Hamp.loye.>i. 79 :;5] Average an- nual earnings per employs. EMPLOYl!;S. Average number of Total wages. employ6j. 2,266 $1,041,296 Average an- nual earnings per employe. Total . . $358. 90 Total $459. 53 Males 1VTn.1p,fl 44,485 30, 240 4, 620 lED MILLS. 19, 369, 046 8, 400, 688 708, 597 435.42 277. 80 153. 18 1, 594 878, 282 510 135, 703 162 ] 27.311 550. 99 266. 08 168. 59 WOES WOOL HAT MILLS. Total 43,593 16, 880, 183 3G4. 28 Total 3,592 1, 363, 944 379. 72 Males - - -Males , .. .. 19, 658 20, 110 3,825 9, 354, 463 6, 889, 096 636, 624 475. 80 292. 84 166. 44 2,309 1,124 159 1, 092, 694 252,965 18,285 473. 23 225. 06 115. 00 CARPET MILLS. Total . . Males HOSIERY AXD KNITTING MILLS. Total 29, 121 11, 633, 116 399. 48 61.209 1 IS. 263. 272 298. 38 14, 034 13, 0S2 2,006 7,018,483 4,251,080 363, 563 500. 11 324. 96 181. 32 10, 366 0,027 3.916 7, 682, 430 10,049,993 530,849 469. 41 245. 56 'Cklldren CbiUlren 135. 56 Rates of wages as here reported are subject in many cases to qualifications tliat can not be statistically sliown. It is still the rule with many establishments, particularly when located in villages and smaller towns, to own tenements and houses, which are occupied by operatives at lower rents than those prevailing in the neighborhood. The boarding house for operatives, conducted by the mill iiroprietors and affording board at rates somewhat lower than the usual rates, still exists in connection with many mills, although it is much less frequently found than formerly. Opportunities for overtime work are not frequent, but they sometimes occur, resulting in an increase in the average earnings, which does not appear in the tables showing weekly rates of wages. The general conditions of labor in the wool manufacture are healthful and will compare favorably with any other industry. As a rule, the atmospheric and sanitary conditions of spinning and weaving rooms are such that the employes are subjected to no hardships from which other industries are exempt. This is particularly true of the mills of more recent construction in the New England and middle states, in which especial care has been taken to properly guard the health and comfort of the operatives. In this respect it is believed that the American woolen and worsted mills are far superior to those of any other country, and the im^jrovement has been especially marked during the last ten years. Neither is the labor especially irksome, in comparison with that of tending machinery in other branches of inanufactiuing, as is shown by the general good health of the operatives employed in woolen mills. Deaths resulting from diseases in any sense peculiar to the industry, or incident to the occupation, are unknown. Accidents are not of frequent occurrence, and they are more rigidly guarded against than formerly, in consequence of the establishment of factory inspection in most of the manufacturing states and of the passage of employers' liability laws. In other respects, the lot of the operative in woolen mills has steadily improved. Until about 1870 payments were made at irregular intervals, according to the convenience of employers, sometimes monthly, sometimes quarterly; now, as a rule, they are made weekly in the eastern and middle states. All payments are now made in cash, except in a few western mills, the use of store orders having been generally abandoned since the war. Prior to 1850 it was customary to begin work in all woolen mills as soon as it was light and to work as late as the light would allow, with no fixed regular hours. In the short days, for about six months in the year, it was customary to work until 9 in the evening, taking half an hour each for breakfast, dinner, and supi^er, 12 hours of work being the rule, summer and winter. For many years later the breakfast was a meal taken after an hour or more of work. About 1855, 11 hours began to be the general day's work, and this continued in most states until about 1875, when the 10-hour system came into use. All the great manufacturing states now have ten-hour laws, differing in details in some instances, but virtually the same in their effect, with reference to the employment of women and children, which control the hours in which the machinery can be kept in operation to advantage. Since this census was taken Massachusetts has reduced rne working hours of women and children by statute from 60 to 58 hours per week. 44 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. PERCENTAGE OF LABOR COST TO TOTAL COST OF MANUFACTURE. The relation of labor cost to the total cost of manufacture cau not be determined from these tables. Such a percentage is apparently secured by the simjile process of adding all the items of cost and ascertaining the percentage of the total which was paid out for labor. The percentage thus obtained for this industry is 25.64; but it is not a true percentage as appears from the fact tbat the sum paid out for partly manufactured products^ such as yarns, is a sum increased by the amount of the labor cost of manufactuiing those yarns; and this labor cost has been counted but once, in the labor column, while the value of the materials lias been counted twice, once as wool or cotton in the raw state and once as yarns. In other words, the methods of census compilations are such as to render it impossible to obtain from the figures a true percentage of labor cost as compared with the whole cost of manufacture. Such a percentage of labor cost, if ascertainable, would have little significance, for the reason that it is an exceedingly variable element and fluctuates in every variety of goods manufactured according to the value of the stock employed or the fineness and finish of the goods manufactured. A cheap satinet, made of low-priced stock, will for that reason show a comparatively liigh percentage of labor cost, while a fine worsted cloth, manufactured from costly wool, may show a percentage of labor cost no greater than that of the satinet, although the actual labor cost to manufacture a yard of the latter is double or treble the labor cost in a yard of satinet. THE PKODUCTS OF WOOL MANUPACTUEE. The wool manufacture differs from every other textile industry in the almost endless variety of its specific products and their ever changing characteristics. It is broadly divided into six grand groups or classes, some of which have little in common with others beyond the fact that they utilize the same raw material. These six grand groups or classes are: (1) the woolen manufacture proper, (2) the worsted manufacture proper, (3) carpets, (4) felt manufactures, (5) wool hats, and (6) hosiery and knit goods. A seventh class might be added to include the shoddy manufacture, the statistics of which are here given. Each of these grand divisions is subdivided into a great variety of products, which again have little kinship with each other. Still again, there is another class of products manufactured from wool, commonly called "small wares" in the trade, and for which there is no equivalent term in any language, the French word "passementerie " being much too limited in its significance to cover the case. The felting property of wool renders it useful in a thousand different forms which have no relationship whatever to clothing, such as materials for sheathing roofs and vessels, nonconducting envelopes for steam boilers and pipes, gun wads, polishing wheels, hammers for piano keys, and the like. Wool is manufactured in combination with all other fibers, with asbestos and India rubber, and is also utilized in the manufacture of an endless variety of braids, gimps, gorings, and similar appurtenances, whicli it is impossible to separately classify. These characteristics of the industry render the grouping of its products extremely difficult for purposes of census classification. The trade names by which certain fabrics are known at one census period may stand for goods essentially different at another. For this reason these trade classifications or designations have been dropped, except as to the well-defined groups of staple goods, and a new one has been adopted, based primarily upon the composition of fabrics. This new classification furnishes a clearer conception of the nature of the industry and its products. It also supplies a more accurate basis of comparison for future census inquiries. Only a general comparison of the products of the wool manufacture in 1880 and 1890 can be made. This was inevitable, even had the classification of 1880 been adhered to, so great have been the changes in the nature of fabrics iu the interval. Direct comparison is impossible for another reason. The products of the mills were reported at the census of 1880 in running yards; they varied in width from one-half to one and one-half yards and over, according* to the nature and use of the fabric. An aggregate based upon such a variable unit of width would have been meaningless, and hence none was attempted at the census of 1880. The returns of piece goods for the present census were all reduced to square yards, and are so reported iu the tables. Thus a definite knowledge of the quantity of product is secured, and an accurate basis for comparisons at future censuses obtained. Each of the six classes of manufacture was separately reported in 1880, and is now again separately reported; so that the relative growth of each, as measured by value of products, is indicated by the tables. TEXTILES— WOOL. 45 CLASSIFICATION OF PEODUCTS. In each class tlie use of other raw materials than wool is common to the manufacture in all countries. This is particularly true of woolen and worsted goods, the two groups in which are included nearly all the fabrics which enter into the clothing of the people. In these two groups the basis of primary classification adopted was as follows : (1) All wool fabrics. (2) Fabrics of cotton warj) with wool filling. (3) Fabrics composed either in warp or filling, or both, of wool, cotton, or shoddy combined, connuoiily known as union or merino goods. This classification of products iis as essential to a full understanding of the industry in these branches as the division into woolen goods made of carded materials, and worsted goods made of materials that have passed through the combing machine. The subdivision of the product into the different varieties of fabrics for men's and women's wear is further indicated in the tables with as close a classification as possible. Analysis of the tables now submitted shows a total of 381,004,461 square yards of goods turned out by the woolen and worsted mills whose operations are covered by this report, subdivided as follows: PRODUCTS. Square yards. Value. Total 381, 004, 461 $169, 409, 239 All-wool goods . . 130, 115, 152 194, 566, 427 56, 322, 882 81, 742, 586 63,361,687 24, 304, 966 46 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. A complete summary of all products, according to a classification contained in the schedule of ine[U!iry and based on commercial use, is presented in the following table : "Woolen, worsterl, union, and cotton warp cloths, coatings, cassimerew, etc. , for men's wear square yards - - "Woolen, worsted, union, and cotton warp overcoatings, cloakings, etc., for men's and women's wears -quare yards "Woolen, worsted, union, and cotton warp dress goods, sackings, tricots, ladies' cloth and hroadcloth, alpacas, mohairs, etc., for women's wuar square yards.. AU.wool, union, and cotton warp flannels do Satinets do Linings, 'Italian cloths, and lastings do Jeans, Iversoys, and linaeys do Jersey cloth do Buntings do Carriage cloths do Total piece goods do "Woven shawls of wool or worsted do AH. wool, union, and cotton warp blankets do AH. wool, union, and cotton warp horse blankets do Can'iage robes do Total do "\\^o()leu , worsted , and union upholstery goods . square yards . Braids and picture cords running yards. . Ingrain carpets, 2 and 3 ply, and ingxain art car- pets square yards . . Tapestry and body brussels, tapestry velvet, "Wilton, Axminstf-r, and Moquette carpets running yards. . All other carpets square yards. . . Kugs of all kinds number. Total value of carpets and rugs Pelts squaie yards.. "Wool hats dozens . . All wool and union or merino yarns pounds . . "Worsted yams do Cotton yarn do. . . "Wool rolls, noils, waste, and all other partly manufactured products do. .. Total yams and partly manufactured products . . . "Woolen, merino, and cotton half hose dozens. "Woolen, merino, and cotton hose ^ do. .. Merino, all. wool, and cotton shirts and drawers do. . . Leggings and gaiters do. . . Gloves and mittens do. . . Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc do... Cardigan jackets, etc do . . . Knit shawls - do... Fancy knit goods, wristers, etc do... Boot and shoe linings yards. Total Quan titles. All other products. Total value of products. 104,93»,3l]i 14, 883, 893 126, 692, 829 61. 105, BOl 18, 630, 656i 4, 585, 080 17, 126, 217 3, 072, 533 566, 880 1, 282, 921 352, 974, 821 4, 758, C52 20, 793, 644 5, 507, 074 775, 963 3i, 835, 333 4,131,288 133, 839, 751 36, 726, 370 36, 536, 565 1,521,930 1, 563, 803 6, 948, 651 1. 046, 481 "V"alue. $83, 523, 714 13, 082, 80] 33; 149, 923 18, 582, 549 4, 296, 082 1, 255, 520 4, 738, 034 2, 171, 328 135, 983 626. 7D1 160, 562, 725 2, 098, 523 7, 153, 900 1,721,516- 646, 904 11, 620, 843 15, 924, 452 27, 125, 980 784, 474 2, 629, 781 3, 120, 293, 5, 229. 17G 42, 215, 173 29, 376, 182 3, 692, 936. 88, 134, 330 13, 062, 970 22,411,363 782, 849 3, 170, 653 39, 433, 835. 7, 080, 943 10, 072, 033 6, 866, 157 25, 072' 898, 081 342, 497 361, 478 22, 990 270, 633 7, 596, 711 7,441,8.'i2 46,464,687 i 11, 749, 438 33, 009, 097 85, 401 1,942,030 1, 476, 430 3, 576, 248 115, 467 759i 748 1,088, .558 61, 245, 169 6, 457, 663 337, 768, 524 The total value of all the products of the wool industry in 1890 is sho-wn by these tables to be $337,768,524,. exchisive of the products of shoddy mills and plants operated in penal, reformatory, and eleemosynary institutions. G-ROSS AND NET VAL"UES. The above value of products is accurately compiled as it appears upon the schedules returned by the manufacturers: but it is a gross value, i. e., the value nt the mills of all the marketable products of those mills, whether 'wholly or partially manufactured, as previously explained in this I'eport, page 21. TEXTILES— WOOL. 47' In the wool manufacture the chief item of duplication is the purchased' yamsj and care has-been taken to keep this item so separated from others that the net value of the wool manufactures of the country can be readily ascertained. Thus the value of woolen and worsted yarns purchased in 1890 was f.34,631,025, aiid of this sum (after subtracting the duty paid value of foreign yarns imported, $3,114,930), $31,516,095, is duplicated in the column of gross value of product, and must be deducted from that total value, leaving the net value at $306,252,429. The increase in the net value of products is 21.17 per cent as compared- with an increase of' 26.39 per cent in gross value. Inasmuch as the statistics of the shoddy manufacture are not included in the gross value of the products of" wool mills, the total gross products of the wool manufacture should be increased by the sum of $1,975,781 (from which is to be deducted the value of woolen yarn purchased, $4,000), the value of the completed fabrics manufactured in the shoddy mills, making the total gross value of woolen products $339,740,305, and tlie total net value $308,224,210. Previous censuses of the wool manufacture have failed to call attention to this duplication of products and the distinction between gross and net value of products. The same duplication occurred in all of them, and the necessity thus exists for making all the comparisons of this report on the ba-sis of the gross value. Prior to the census of 1870 no account was taken of yarns purchased. In the census of that year purchased yarns were reported by quantities only, values being omitted. Net values- are thus only obtainable for the censuses of 1880 and 1890. In the former year 24,078,253 pounds of woolen and worsted yarns were purchased, having a value of $15,769,016, which amount, less the value of yarns imported in 1880 (635,755 pounds, valued at $1,262,489), subtracted from the gross value of products reported, $267,252,913, leaves a net value of $252,746,386- for the products of the manufacture in 1880.- The total quantities of yarns purchased in 1890, 1880, and 1870, including yarns made in other textile mills,, and therefore not duplicated in the gross values of this report, are shown in the following tables, the second of which: gives the comparative amount of these purchased yarns used in each branch of the industry at each period: YAENS PURCHASED— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY. Years. Total pounds of yam. Valua._ 1890 al78, 858, 121 68, 393, 298 23,624,911 $58, 46^ 726 20, 484, 683 Not given. 1880 1870 a This includes mohair, silk, jute, and linen. Without these the amount woulihe 143,824,219 pounds, valued at $52,616,401; YARNS PURCHASED IN 1890. Total Woolen Worsted. -- Cotton Mohair Silk Spun silk . . Jute Linen Pounds. 178, 858, 121 31, 385, 664 28, 813, 717 83, 624, 868 738, 777 244, 306 131, 629 23, 795, 444 10, 123, 816 Value. $58, 467, 726 11,285.379 23, 345, 646 17, 985, 376 534, 169 1,395,176 591, 226 1,709,461 1, 621, 293 WOGI,Eri .1III.LS.. Pounds. Value, 32,175,910. 4, 982, 919 2, 560, 619 23, 990, 406 324, 181 120, 571. 69, 36fr 125, 327 2,529 $12,007,406 3, 000, 984 2, 540, 667 5,239, 928 297, 905 632, 545 281, 211 13, 181 895 WORSTED jriLLS, Piounds. Value. 22, 307, 298 903,174 11, 551, 264 9, 454, 874 232, 071 46, 138 19, 427 $15, 347,-357 100, 350 355, 592 11, 814, 025 2,411,972 212, 364 344, 556 127,775 50, 473 Total - Woolen Worsted Cotton iloliair Silk Spun silk .. Jute Linen ...... CARPET MILLS. Value. 80,811,257 18. 763, 201 10, 555, 799 17, 920, 498 182, 400 23,670,117 e, 719, 242 $14, 760, 639 4, 112, 324 4, 711, 249 2, 712, 484 23, 712 FELT MILLS. Value WOOL HAT MILLS.. HOSIERY AND KNITTINfl MILLS. Valuje. Value. $2, 019 10,241 1,606,280 1, 504, 590 $24, 982 24,-S82 43, 203, 415 , $16, 325, 323 6, 386, 370 I 3, 791, 497 4, 140, 035 \ 4, 279, 105 :«, 24o, 849 I 7,588,973 125 ! OS 77, 597 , 418, 075 42,744 I 182,240 301, 695 65, xa •48 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Another differentiation in the industry is in the separate estabhshments for dyeing and finishing woolen ; goods. The added value imparted to product by the finishing processes of these separate establishments must be added to the figures above given to obtain a true net value. Prom the report on Dyeing and Finishing Textiles is obtained the following summary of these added values in wool, yarns, woolen and worsted goods, and mixed ■,textiles : DYEING AND FINISHING. MATERIALS. Quantity. Added value. Total $4. 017, 366 Woolen yarns, dyed (pounds) 17,999,651 751 . SOI 9,342,157 493,974 1,160,666 1 48,828 20. 779, 034 j 652, 998 60 716 250 : 2. 069. 765 Wool find worsted piece goods dyed (square yards) 1 THE REDUCTION IN MARKET TALITES. No exact method exists whereby the relative quantities of goods represented by the total values of products •reported in 1880 and 1890 can be ascertained. The constant variations which occur in the characteristics of fabrics, ^nd the corresponding variations in the quality and value of the raw materials utilized for their manufacture, destroy any general standards of comparison. Careful investigation of price lists covering the whole period between 1880 and 1890 determines that the fall in the value of manufactured products during that period has borne the natural relation to the fall in the value of the raw materials of which they are composed. The following table gives the average cost per scoured pound of foreign and domestic wool utilized in the wool manufacture and in each of its branches, as shown in the censuses of 1890 and 1880, and also the percentage of decrease: .AVERAGE COST OF SCOURED WOOL CONSUMED IN THE WOOL MANUFACTURE, AND IN EACH CLASS, 1890 AND 1880. Total: 1890. 1880. Woolen mills : 1890 1880 Worsted mills : 1890 1880 Felt mills : 1890 1880 Wool hat mills: 1890 1880 Carpet mills : 1890 1880 Hosiery and Ituitting mills: 1890 1880 Quantity. (Pounds scoured.) 214, 945, 513 171, 880, 831 100, 109, Quantity of wool "in condition purcliased' 1890 1880 226, 094 724, 213 , 989, 746 i, 334. 635 . 213, 230 1, 733, 796 i, 018, 114 , 597, 279 726, 837 563, 216 771,493 927, 692 Cost. $98, 540, 484 97, 681, 604 372,797,413 296, 192, 229 48, 859, 811 67, 380, 250 28, 280, 287 15, 235, 878 1,841,382 1,624,871 1, 448, 799 2, 644, 293 9, 855, 787 6, 975, 129 8, 254, 418 3, 821, 183 98, 640, 484 97, 681, C04 A-^erage cost i3er pound. (Cents.) Per cent of decrease. 45.84 19.34 56.83 48.75 20.60 61.40 51.43 11.10 57.85 43.70 26.48 59.44 48.00 34.69 73.50 27.59 6.79 29.60 49.23 23.64 64.46 =¥ = 0.26 21.21 0.33 These average values appear aDnormally low when compared with the prices of scoured wools given in current market quotations. But it is to be borne in mind that the latter quotations relate to the standard grades of wools. The enormous quantities of inferior and "unmerchantable" wools in every year's clip possess a scoured value much less than the average above indicated. The average value of the total clip of the IJnited States in 1890, in the condition marketed, is estimated at about 26 cents in commercial quarters, and this estimate permits a shrinkage of 49 per cent to reach the average value of scoured domestic and foreign wools shown at this census. The relative TEXTILES— WOOL. 49 average prices as between 1880 and 1890 correspond closely with the general decline in the value of wool in the ten years, as Indicated in current market quotations. An average decline in the cost of scoured wool of 19 per cent may be assumed to mean a somewhat smaller decline in the cost of th6"manufactured goods. The materials constitute about one-half the cost of the manufactured goods on the average. There has been an increase in the rates of wages in this industry during the decade, but not corresponding with the fall in the cost of raw materials. On the other hand, there has been a cheapening of the cost of manufacturing through the greater efficiency of improved machinery, but not sufficient to offset these increased wages. The balancing of these shifting elements in cost results in the conclusion that the reduced cost of production in the decade is from 8 to 10 jjer cent, which reduced cost represents the reduction in values. Any temporary advantage which comes to manufacturers from a fall in the cost of raw materials must almost immediately be yielded in their own prices, so close has become competition iu all lines of standard goods. Eeckoning the fall in the value of goods as 8 per cent in the decade, the value of the products of 1890 would have been $367,139,700, on the basis of values which obtained in 1880. NOMENCLATURE. The fundamental terms by which the distinct fabrics of the wool manufacture are designated are simple and well defined as to their meaning, are of universal application, and are used throughout this report in their commonly accepted significance. Other forms of nomenclature have been for the most part discarded, as tending to confase. Theyare innumerable in number, and are the result of the ingenuity of manufacturers who, having devised some new style or design of fabric, seek to distinguish it in the market by affixing a novel and distinguishing name. Hundreds of such names have thus been introduced into the speech of the manufacturer, most of which disappear with the fabric to which they are applied. Other names, used to describe some radical departure from ordinary fabrics, remain and become fixtures in the nomenclature of the trade, but often with an ultimate significance different from that originally attaching to them. These names rarely have any etymological signification and are constantly reappearing in different connections. The fundamental distinctions between different fabrics are due primarily to the method of spinning the yarns, whether woolen or worsted, and secondarily, to the weaves employed in fabrication. The primary difference in classification is subsequently explained. The classification by weave applies to the system of harnesses by which the loom is equipped for different tissues. There are four faudamental weaves, from which all other simple fabric are variations : (1) The plain weave, which is the simplest fabric, in which but two harnesses are employed, forming a simple interlacement of the threads of the warj) and weft. This is the weave of broadcloth, cotton shirtings and sheetings, and mousselines de laiue. (2) The twilled weave, produced by three or more harnesses. (3) The satin weave, produced by five or more harnesses, the effect of which is to bring the threads of either the warp or the weft prominently to the face. (4) The gauze or leno weave. Different effects are produced from derivatives and combinations of these fundamental tissues. Thus, in the most simple, that of cloth or plain weave, varied effects are produced by the greater or less torsion of the threads, and the direction in which they are twisted; by variations in the size of the warp or weft compared with each other; by making the weft pass alternately over two threads and one thread of the warp, making a " rep " or corded tissue, etc. Still other variations are made by the use of different materials in the warp or weft by making them of pure wool and of a single color, or mixed with silk, mohair, etc. The four fundamental interlacements, which form the base of the most complicated tissues, are further varied by combinations of crossings of the threads which occur at variable places at each course of the thread across the web, forming figured, brocade, or damasked effects, which are produced by the jacquard loom. Another variation is made by having two warps, one to form the ground of the tissue and the other made to pass over wires to form a loop, making velvet or pile fabrics. CLASS 1— WOOLEN GOODS. The primary group of wool manufactures, that which was iirst to take root in the United States, and is most intimately associated with the domestic economy of the people, is that which is called woolen goods proper, and which includes all carded wool woven fabrics, from the homespun cloth to the broadcloth, the fancy cassimere, the flannel, the blanket, etc, 2457 4 50 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The status of this branch of the manufacture at each census period since 1840 is shown in the following table ; STATISTICS OF WOOLEN MILLS: 18i0-1890. YEARS. Number of eatablisli- luents. Capital. Miscella- neous expenses. Average numbei of employes. Total wages. Cost of ma- terials used. Value of products. 1840 1,420 1,559 $15, 765, 124 28, 118, 650 30,862,654 98, 824, 531 96, 095, 564 also, 989, 940 21, 342 39,252 41, 360 80, 058 86, 504 79, 351 $20, 696, 999 1850 $25 756 991 1860 1,260 .$9, 610, 254 26, 877, 575 25, 836, 392 28, 478, 931 36,586,287 ! 61,894,986 96; 432, 601 155,405,358 1870 2,891 1,990 1.311 1880 1890 $8, 402, 623 82, 270, 335 133, 577, 977 a Tliia amount does not include the value of " Hired property ". The most striking fact brought out by the returns for 1890 is the decline in the market value of the products of woolen mills as compared with 1880. These products are now returned at a value of $133,577,977, and in 1880 they reached $160,606,721, a decrease of 16.83 per cent. This decline is the result of the change from the woolen to the worsted fabric, a change forced upon the industry by the requirements of 'popular taste. The production of worsted mills has enormously increased, the growth being equal to 136.05 per cent. These goods have taken the place of the carded wool fabrics, which up to thirty years ago constituted the entire production of men's-wear goods in the United States. The quantity of raw materials consumed in woolen mills was greater in 1890 than in 1880, being 200,543,253 pounds in' the former year, as against 186,868,828 pounds in 1880, an iucrease of 13,674,425 pounds, or 7.32 per cent, as shown by the following table : MATERIALS USED. Total Scoured -wool (domestic and foreign) Camel's hair and noils Mohair and noils All other animal hair Cotton purchased Shoddy 1890 (Pounds.) 1880 (Pounds.) 200, 543, 25? 186,868,828 100, 226, 094 109,724,213 1,781,240 1, 234, 064 60. 533 84, 080 9, 619, 277 36,993,712 4,497,524 24, 744, 964 51, 862, 397 46, 583, 983 It follows that the quantity of products in' this branch of industry was greater than in 1880, notwithstanding the decrease in value. This analysis of the raw materials consumed in this branch of the industry demonstrates a slight deterioration in the average quality of products. While the quantity of scoured wool consumed decreased by over 9,000,000 pounds, the consumption of shoddy, cotton, and miscellaneous animal hair increased 22,648,915 pounds. A large part of these substitutes or adulterants were consumed, not in the manufacture of cloths, but in low grade yarns for cheap carpets, in cotton products, and in horse blankets, in all of which there was a great ilicrease of product in woolen mills. Nevertheless it is true that the competition with worsted goods has compelled the woolen manufacture proper to cater more directly to the demand for cheaper grades of clothing material, so that the change in the character of materials used, shown above, is natural and explained by the peculiar conditions surrounding this industry. The demand for a cheap fabric exists and steadily increases, and it can only be met by the partial use J of materials cheaper than wool. WOOLEN CLOTHS. The great branch of the woolen manufacture proper is the production of cloths for men's wear. The i production of cloths of this description aggregated 112,225,297 square yards, valued at $60,258,252. In their general characteristics these cloths have changed very slightly since the beginning of the industry in the United States. There are some exceptions to this rule which are worthy of note. At the beginning of factory manufacture the woolen cloths consisted almost wholly of plain cloths, known as broadcloths; plain twilled fabrics similar in face to broadcloths, known as cassimeres and kerseymeres, and satinets. Several of the earlier mills brought the manufacture of broadcloths to a high degree of perfection. Samples are still in existence of blue and black broadcloths made at the Vassalboro mill in Maine, in 1853, from selected Silesian wool, costing, with duties and charges, about $3 a pound, and woven with 120 picks to the inch, which were conceded by experts from various countries to equal in fineness and finish the best products of the West of England mills, which had occupied in all international expositions the position of pre-eminence. It was thus made evident that in this particular fabric, TEXTILES-7-W00L. 51 which is substautially the same to-day as when first made in the French convents four centuries ago, and which for that reason is regarded as the typical product of the industry, can be manufactured in the United States with as high degree of perfection as anywhere else, the economic conditions being equal, {a) The diminution of the American broadcloth manufacture has been commonly traced to the tariff of 1846, which imposed a duty upon the fine imported Saxony wools out of which the fine grades were made, equal to the duty on the goods themselves. The decline dates from that period; but it has been greatly influenced or accelerated by other causes; the constantly diminishing domestic supply of superfine wools, the Saxon wool culture, for which there was such a craze for the fifteen years following the tariff of 1824, having long since disappeared ; and the change in the popular taste, which has practically destroyed the market for broadclot'iis. With the introduction of fancy goods the demand for broadcloths ceased, except for special purposes. A similar although not equal diminution has occurred in the fine cloth manufacture of other countries. SATINETS. Prom the broadcloth, which represents one extreme of wool manufacture, we turn to the satinet, which is typical of the other extreme, and equally a product of the earliest American woolen mills. The total quantity of satinets produced in 1890 M^as 18,630,656 square yards (usually three-fourths of a yard in width), valued at $4,296,082, or an average value per square yard of 23.06 cents, or 17.29 cents per running yard. This was an increase from 16,629,116 running yards in 1880 (value not then given) to 24,840,875 running yards in 1890. The values here indicated are evidence enough that there is an abundance of cheap clothing in the United States. In the earlier j)art of the century the cheapest cloths having any claim to be called woolen cloths could not be made in factories for three times this cost. As a consequence the people were at that time more largely clothed in all-cotton garments than is the case to-day. But the satinet of those early days was an entirely different fabric from the present satinet, the relative cheapness having been brought about by changes in processes, and by the knowledge of how to use cheaper materials to advaaitage. The early satinet was a cloth made on a cotton warp with a filling spun from the ordinary grades of domestic fleeces, the waste of which was practically lost. It is that waste, combined with other renovated wastes, cotton, etc., which now constitutes the filling of the satinet. The original satinet was a plain cloth, made of dyed yarns. The present satinet is a printed fabric, in whicli, by the use of fast colors, an effect is obtained similar to that of the fancy cassimere. These goods will not retain the appearance nor endure the wear of all-wool goods. But in proportion to their cost they answer their purpose quite as well. Although the figures given indicate a marked increase in production, this class of goods lias suffered severely of late from the competition of the cheaper grades of fancy cassimeres, and more particularly from the transient popularity of cheviot goods, so called, which are rough, openly woven woolen goods, made in black or mixed colors from coarse wool. The relative quantity of satinets manufactured is to-day much smaller than before the war. JEANS. Another group of goods belonging to this category is jeans, which differs from the satinet chiefly in that it is a plain fabric with a twilled weave. The quantity produced was 17,126,217 square yards, having a value of $4,738,034, which shows a somewhat higher aA'erage of value than the satinets. These goods are largely made in the west, where there are a number of mills which devote their entire machinery to turning out supplies of these goods to meet the western and southern demand for a cheap, substantial, every-day fabric. FANCY CASSIMERES. The predominating group of the woolen manufacture is next in order of consideration, and is the largest in the quantity and value of its products, although one of recent development. These cloths in all their varieties are commonly grouped under the name of fancy cassimeres. Their manufacture dates from the year 1836, and they havcAvorked a practical revolution in the industry as previously conducted. In 1834„a certain M. Bonjean, a wool manufacturer of Sedan, Prance, devised a modification of the plain cloths hitherto universally made, by uniting upon the same stuff different tints or patterns of tissue, by the use of the jacquard loom. The goods were susceptible of as many A^arieties of pattern or style as the fancy might dictate, and at once became immensely popular, not only in Prance, but in all manufacturing nations. The beginning of their manufacture in this country is traced to Mr. Samuel Lawrence, then the agent of the Middlesex mills, at Lowell, Massachusetts, and Mr. Georgfe Crompton, the inventor of the Orompton loom. Mr. Lawrence had seen specimens of the goods, and he applied to a Thaddeus Clapp, of Pittafleld. Massachusetts, wrote in 1877 as follows: " The first broadcloth made in this country was by Scholfleld in 1804. The cloth was a gray mixed, and when finished was shown to the different merchants and offered for sale, but could find no purchasers in the village. A few weeks siibsequently Josiah Bissell, a lending merchant in town, made a voyage to Xew York for the purpose of buying goods, and brought home two pieces of Scholfleld's cloths, which were purchased for the foreign article. Scholfleld was sent for to test the quality, and soon exhibited to the merchant his private marks on the same cloth which he had before rejected. In 1808 Scholfleld manufactured thirteen yards of black broadcloth, which were presented to James Madison, from which his inaugural suit was made. Five merino sheep were introduced about this time in this town, and Scholfleld was able to select enough to make this single piece, and President iladisou was the flrst President who was inaugurated in American broadcloth." 52 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Mr. Orompton to test the feasibility of constructing a loom for their manufacture, on a pattern already successfully applied in cotton fabrics. In 1840 Mr. Orompton succeeded in adapting his cotton loom to the manufacture of fancy woolens, and it was put in operation in the Middlesex mills. Up to this time no fancy woolens of any description had been woven in the United States, and here were made the first fancy cassimeres woven by power anywhere in the world. For many years afterward the hand loom continued to be solely employed for these goods in Prance and all foreign countries; and their manufacture, by power, progressed more rapidly here than anywhere else, although the industrial conditions at that time existing made the development exceedingly slow, as is shown by the fact that^the whole amount received under the license to manufacture, given by Mr. Orompton to Phelps & Bickford, of Worcester, Massachusetts, was only $14,000 during the fourteen year term, of the patent on his loom. The new cloths were adapted to the change which had begun in our domestic wool supply. They required soundness, length, and strength of fiber, rather than the softness and fineness which had been formerly striven for in our fleeces. In the production of this class of goods many American mills gradually secured a degree of excellence which gave them a reputation beyond the limits of our own country, and at the Philadelphia Exposition of 1876 samples of domestic goods were exhibited which were favorably compared with the products of Sedan and Elbeuf in France, which centers have earned the reputation of surpassing the rest of the world in novelty of design and perfection of execution. FLANNELS. Important among the products of this branch of the industry, and one of the earliest and most stable, is the flannel of every variety. The flannel manufacture reached considerable dimensions under the household system of industry; and u.nder factory methods no other fabric has been made in such quantities or used for so many purposes. It has attained an enormous development in the United States, not equaled in any other country, and for a period of more than forty years it has been enabled, except in some exceptional fancy varieties, to exclude the foreign article from the home market, an achievement equaled only in the manufacture of blankets and of bunting, and perhaps carpets. The primary cause of the successes of the flannel manufacture in the United States was assigned by John L. Hayes to "the peculiar adaptation of the American wools for this fabric"- This adaptation consists in their spinning qualities, their soundness and elasticity, and their medium fineness, producing the requisite softness, without too much felting quality to cause an undue shrinking of the goods. To this it may be added that flannel being the first stage in the manufacture of plain cloth, and from its simple character reqiiiring a comparatively small labor expenditure, it has naturally received a great degree of attention from American manufacturers on account of the steady domestic demand for the goods. Its uses are multiform and continue to increase. The rigor of our climate created an enormous demand for flannels for underwear, a demand which has of late years been met by knitted underwear goods. As the latter have gradually superseded flannel for undergarments other uses for flannels have increased, and to-day they are in great demand for children's garments, fatigue uniforms for soldiers and policemen, and summer wear of every description. It is a matter of record that as early as 1821 flannels were made in the state of New York by the predecessor of the present Stott mills that were pronounced equal to the best Welsh flannels. Another record is that the Groveland mill, in Massachusetts, founded in 1804 by Ezekiel Hale, made 30,000 pieces of flannel in 1823; and, in 1827, three mills in the neighborhood of Newburyport, Massachusetts, manufactured goods of this description valued at $700,000. Of late years the American manufacture of carded wool dress goods, which are simply fancy flannels, has grown to be a distinct and creditable branch of the manufacture, and in beauty, delicacy, variety, and fastness of coloring the industry has attained a degree of perfection nowhere excelled. The American flannel manufecturers have secured and retained the control of their home market by studying to adapt their products to the peculiar wants of our own people. In this way they have given them certain characteristics which foreign flannels do not possess. In 1835 the "Domett flannel", an original fabric, composed of a cotton warp with a filling of wool, came into use as a substitute for the linsey-woolsey stuffs, originally of household manufacture, and worn by working women for under petticoats. It shrinks but little in washing, and has persistently held its own in the interval as a characteristic domestic product. The red flannels have still a large consumption among working people, especially frontiersmen and lumbermen. About 1869 first appeared the blue flannel coating, wool-dyed, and having a three-leaved twill. This fabric, which is sheared and finished like cloth, but which nevertheless retains the lightness and pliability of the flannel cloth, is also distinctively American in origin and character. Opera flannels, a name applied abroad to a light flannel more highly gigged and finished than the ordinary flannel, which is piece-dyed uniformly in fancy colors and hot pressed, were first introduced in this country by the Bay State mills, and their manufacture was continued at Ware, Massachusetts, by the late George H. Gilbert, about 1858, in which year he made and sold 4,000 pieces. In 1871 the same establishment made and sold 120,000 pieces of these goods, equivalent to 2,000,000 yards, and the foreign importations had by this time entirely ceased. TEXTILES— WOOL. 53 Still higher grades of all-wool gauze iiud silk-warped flannels are successfully made in this country. Flannels were exhibited at the Philadelphia Exposition having 130 picks to the iiich, in which the filling yarns were spun to a length of 46,500 yards to the pound and the warps to a length of 34,500 yards. Another variety of flannel for which the domestic manufacture is distinguished is known as the French plaid, largely used for shirts and children's gaiments. The present fashion has immensely stimulated the production of these goods, which are made in every variety of pattern and in every form of mixture with cotton and silk. Of the production of the census year, 61,195,501 square yards, of the value of $18,582,549, are classified as flannels proper, and 52,785,570 square yards, value $15,821,087, as woolen dress goods, which are the fancy flannels above alluded to. We have from the two items combined an aggregate quantity of 113,981,071 square yards, which is almost equal to the quantity of cloths manufactured in woolen mills. The product of woolen dress goods above indicated may be cjontrasted with the 73,907,259 square yards of worsted dress goods madt^ in the census year to determine the relative popularity of the two varieties of fabrics for women's wear. BLANKETS. The next group of woolen fabrics in importance is composed of blankets, which have been classified as house blankets, of which 20,793,644 square yards were manufactured, valued at $7^153,900, and horse blankets, of whicli 5,507,074 square yards were manufactured, valued at $1,721,516. By the census of 1880 blankets were reported by pairs to the number of 4,000,000, including horse blankets, of value of $6,840,000, and varying in value from 60 cents to $6 per blanket, the average value per blanket being $1.71. (a) The increase in the blanket manufacture is greater than would appear from the difference in the value of the product on account of the excessive fall in valut-s witnessed in this branch of the industry. The blanket manufacture of the United States will not suffer by comparison with that of any other country, and it has long completely supplied the domestic market. The energies of the manufacturers are largely directed toward the production of the coarse and mediiim qualities for which there is steady demand. The competition has been so close and the product so even with the demand, if not in excess of it, that there have been many years since the close of the civil war in which the product has found a market without profit to the manufacturer. The stimulation of war prices, the large requirements of the government for the army and navy, and the exclusive possession of the home market had tempted an undue proportion of the smaller mills of the country into the blanket manufacture. They largely continued in it after the war closed, until in 1878 the glut of j^roductiou became so great that the larger manufacturers found it necessary to relieve the market by an auction sale in ifew York. At this, the largest sale of woolen fabrics which had occurred in this country, 6,000 cases of blankets, averaging 50 pairs to a case, were sold for $717,940, at an estimated loss of $100,000 on the first cost of the goods. From the first the blanket indiistry has been subject to vicissitudes. Repeated efforts to establish it successfully in the earlier history of the industry were costly failures. After the tariif of 1S42 went into effect the manufacture developed very rapidly until tlie tariff of 1846, which placed a duty of 30 per cent upon imported wools, while reducing the duty on flannels and blankets to 20 and 25 per cent. After 1857 the blanket manufacture again advanced so rapidly that by 1861 nearly the entire consumption of the country was of domestic production, as it has since continued to be. Certain high grades of blankets, which originated with the Mission mills of California in 1858, have attained a world wide celebrity for weight, thickness, softness, and perfection of face. Advances have been made in the blanket manufactiu'e in the last ten years in the lighter weights of finer finish. Jacquard borders of two and three colors are now a feature that adds greatly to the appearance of the goods. Many famous mills have been identified with the blanket manufacture of the United States, including older mills which long since disappeared. SHAWLS. The manufacture of woolen shawls was at one time an important branch of the industry, but changes in fashion have greatly reduced the output of these goods. There were 4,458,483 square yards of woolen shawls manufactured in 1890, valued at $1,955,214. These shawls were of a great variety of sizes and of qualities, and the statistics indicate nothing as to their average value beyond the fact that the bulk of the product was in cheap grades. l^Teither is it possible to make any comparisf n with the shawl production of 1880 ; for shawls were then returned, not in square yards, but in number, viz, l,24-,979, and no value was given. It is probable that The production did not greatly vary at the two periods. The manufacture of all-wool plaid shawls, formerly known in this country as the " Bay State shawl", from the mill which introduced it, first assumed importance about the year 1848. Similar shawls had been made many years earlier, notably at the Watervliet mills. West Troy, New York, but upon hand looms, and the product was limited. From 1850 to the close of the civil war a number of larger mills were employed upon these goods, some of them exclusively. Prominent among these mills were the Peacedale, Watervliet, Waterloo, Middlesex, and Washington, formerly the Bay State. a Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Mauufaiturer.s 54 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The early application of the cassiinere twill to this fabric, the facility with which the design is made and varied through the alternate concurrence of the warp and filling, and the ready adaptation of the n[iediuni American wools to this product, caused the domestic manufacture of woolen shawls to reach proportions, in the day of its prime, of which no adequate picture is presented by the statistics either of 1880 or 1890. The decline of this branch of the industry was hastened, not only by the popular preference for cloakings as an outside covering, but also by the introduction of the process of dyeing worsted yarns with fast colors, which led to the substitution of worsted shawls, of which there were made 300,169 square yards in 1890. ISTo serious attempts have been made in this country to produce the highest qualities of shawls. It is not possible, under present conditions, for machine made shawls to compete with the hand productions of the East. CLASS II— WOESTED GOODS. A striking feature of these statistics is the development of the worsted manufacture. It may be described in general terms as a treatment of wool after the methods of the cotton manufacture. The worsted manufacture is more complicated and expensive than the woolen manufacture, requiring more machinery of a most costly character and more skill and care in manipulation. The woolen yarn carded and spun on the mule, with few intermediate manii3ulations,is composed of a loose "thread of tangled fibers, interlocking and criss-crossing irregularly, and lacking in tensile strength. The worsted yarn is composed of fibers of wool running parallel with each other, closely twisted into a strand which is smooth, hard, and comparatively strong. . This difference between the two yarns is effected by the introduction of the combing machine and gill box, and doubling spindle mechanisms. The fiinction of the combing macliine is to lay the fibers of the wool parallel with each other, eliminating the short fibers or noils, all of which are retained in the woolen yarn. The whole process is thus fundamentally different from that of making woolen yarn. Vickerman describes worsted spinning as a series of processes continuously following each other, while woolen spinning is a compound process intermittently carried on. The worsted yarn is perfected by drafting on a series of spindles, and may be spun to a fineness of 33,600 yards, 44,800 yards, and 56,000 yards to the pound, although worsted yarns of such high numbers are rarely made in the United States. Woven from yarns so fundamentally different, the woolen and worsted fabrics require treatment equally different in the finish, and tliey are easily distinguished from each other. The one is woven loose and open and is thoroughly fulled. The absence of felting from the worsted constitutes the final difference between a worsted and a woolen cloth. In the former the surface is hard and the characteristics of the weave are distinctly visible. The worsted manufacture is of very ancient origin in England and Prance, but it was wholly unknown in the miUs of this country until about the middle of the present century. That our wool manufacture should have been so long confined to the woolen form is one of many evidences of the primitive character of the manufacture here as compared with Europe. Very early in the century worsteds had become popular in Europe, and before our first worsted mill was constructed the manufacture. nearly equaled that of woolens both in England and France. The first attempt at the manufacture of worsted in the United States was at a mill in Ballardvale, Massachusetts, in 1843. The manufacture of delaines was here undertaken by John Marland, employing about thirty looms. The experiment extended to delaines for printing, in which the block process was used, and also to goods dyed in the piece. All the wool was combed by hand. The enterprise was not regarded as successful, largely, perhaps, because of the limited means of its projectors. The Amoskeag mills, at Manchester, New Hampshire, was the second establishment to attempt this manufacture, and it persevered for about seven years. In 1845 the Manchester mills, in B'ew Hampshire, built a large mill for the manufacture of delaines. At first this company used carded wool only. Their first combing machines were introduced about 1855, very shortly after they had superseded the hand comber in England. The wools used were a high grade of Ohio and Pennsylvania merino. The Manchester mills printed their own delaines from the start. All delaines had previously been printed by hand by what was known as the block machine, a slow and expensive process. At Manchester the so called Birch machine was used for a„time, but the use of the cylinder for printing calicoes almost immediately suggested the similar method of printing delaines now universally in use. The original delaines made by this company were goods averaging about seven yards to the pound, and the popularity of the fabric may be inferred from the fact that the Manchester mills for years made delaines of the value of $1,000,000 per annum. The fashions changed about 1868, but printed worsteds of a somewhat lighter weight are still made at these and other mills. The success of these pioneers brought other mills into the field. The Hamilton Woolen Company, at Southbridge, Massachusetts, soon afterward converted their mill from a woolen cloth factory into a dress goods mill, and in 1853 the Pacific mill, at Lawrence, was organized for the manufacture of the same class of fabrics. This mill also began by using carded yarn, but in 1854 it imported six combing machines of the Lister pattern, which are believed to be the first set up in this country. The Washington mills afterward followed, and made the first all-wool worsted dress goods manufactured in America. TEXTILES— WOOL. 55 The census of 1860 took cognizance of but three worsted mills as then in existence iu the United States, the Mancliester, Pacific, and Hamilton. The development of the industry from that date until the present time is shown in the following table: STATISTICS OF WORSTED MILLS: 1860-1890. YEARS. Number of establish- ments. Capital. Miscella- neous expenses. Average number of employes. Total wages. 1860 1870 1880 1890 3 i 102 i 76 $3, 230, 000 10, 085, 778 20,374.043 a68,0S5,116 2,378 12, 920 18, 803 43, 693 $54.'!, 684 i, 368, 857 , , 5, 683, 027 ,$4, 917, 760 15, 880, 183 Cost of ma- I Value of terials used. ; products. $2, 442, 775 14, 308, 198 22,013.628 50, 706 769 • $3,701,378 22, 090, 331 33, 549, 942 79, 194, 652 (sThis amount does not include value of "Hired property ". The American manufacture of worsteds received its great impetus under the operation of the reciprocity treaty with Canada, whose sheep were wholly of English blood, producing the long combing wools peculiar to those breeds, of which there were in ISfiO but few grown in the United States. Of the 6,000,000 pounds of this long wool grown in Canada at that period about 4,000,000 i^ounds were exported to the United States, where they were converted into a great variety of fabrics then extremely popular for female wear, and just beginning to be manufactured in quantities: alpacas, brilliautines, poplins, grenadines, and similar goods to which fancy names were attached with almost every change in contexture and pattern. The same peiiod witnessed the successful beginnings of American efforts in the manufacture of furniture goods, moreens, damasks, reps, mohairs, braids, and other goods of this class, ftreat improvements in combing machinery during this period stimulated these industries. The transient popularity of fabrics of ali^aca, hard and lustrous, was met by the American discovery that by the use of cotton warps with a filling of combing wool an excellent substitute for alpaca could be had. Even at this time, however, the longer Stapled merino wools, from 2.5 to 3 inches in length, were being combed for making delaines and similar fabrics. Other changes and improvements in combing machinery came into use, the fashion for bright goods waned, the development of the worsted suiting industry came on, and it supplied itself with combing wools of merino blood. The reign of the long combing fleeces was over, and they began to fall in value as rapidly as they had risen. The eflfeet of these mutations in the industry upon that class of wools may be judged from the London quotations of Lincoln wool, which fell from 26.75 pence in 1865, a ijrice which it reached again in 1872, to 10 pence in 1890. Between 1860 and 1870 the number of establishments manufacturing worsted goods increased from 3 to 102, the capital from $3,230,000 to $10,085,778, the operatives from 2,378 to 12,920, and the value of products from $3,701,378 to $22,090,331. The decade from 1870 to 1880 showed the number of worsted manufactories reduced to 76, but the amount of capital employed doubled, and the market value of the products increased from $22^090,331 to $33,549,942. The decade now under consideration shows a ratio of gain greater than any other. The number of mills just about doubled, the capital increased more than three times, the total number of employ4s more than doubled, and the value of the products increased 136.05 per cent. While the relative importance of the worsted industry in this country is not yet as great as in either England or France, it is nevertheless clear that this is the department of wool manufacture for which the future holds the greatest promise. DRESS GOODS FOR WOMEN'S WEAR. The sketch above given indicates that the worsted manufacture was confined for many years to the making of the light-weight goods for female wear, commonly grouped under the name of "stuffs" or dress goods, except as to the manufacture of coarser worsted yarns for use in the carpet industry. All the products of this general class are grouped under this one head as the only practicable classification where there exists such a multitude of names and varieties of fabrics. The census of 1890 shows the manufacture of 73,907,259 square yards of goods of this general character, having a total value of $16,328,836. The quantity of running yards manufactured iu 1880 was 75,109,225. An increase in quantity occurred, as the great bulk of the dress goods are manufactured in narrow widths, running from 26 up to 54 inches, but averaging perhaps somewhere between 30 and 40 inches. The increase in the manufacture of suitings for men's wear has, however, been much greater, both in value and quantity. 56 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. One explanation of this fact is found in the enormous quantities of dress goods imported into this country of ■ late years. The following table, prepared from the Treasury Department reports, shows approximately the quantity of this class of imported goods consumed by the American people since 1867: IMPORTS or DEESS GOODS ENTERED FOR CONSUMPTION: 1867-1890. [Goods weighing over 4 ounces per square yard estimated at 4.5 ounces to the square yard.] YEARS. Square yards. T'oreign value. VEAES. Square yards. Foreign value. 1867 - 68,845,746 67, 035, 850 68, 941, 611 68, 417, 235 80, 857, 310 81, 213, 343 75, 696, 005 73, 489, 162 77, 926, 496 60, 234, 205 52, 912, 741 53, 902, 154 $20, 366, 635 16, 868, 362 18, 280, 490 18, 044, 982 21,651,423 24, 071, 832 23, 119, 442 22, 363, 769 22, 330, 018 16, 555, 100 14, 111, 843 14, 164, 130 1879 54, 982, 153 67, 986, 246 61, 990, 172 93, 772, 856 93, 920, 152 63,831,494 61, 491, 520 67, 346, 150 76,871,189 85, 504, 490 93, 261, 526 107, 915, 289 $14, 365, 255 16, 752, 068 15, 961, 066 19, 070, 817 22. 619, 106 15,349,097 14, 197, 987 14,971,277 17, 199, 141 18, 742, 493 19, 793, 253 22,668,293 1868 1880 1869 1870 1881 - . . 1882 1871 1883 1872 1873 1885 1874 1886 1875 1887 1876 1888 1877 1889- 1878 .,-... 1890 . . When to the quantity givfen for 1890 in this table we add the 73,907,259 square yards of domestic manufacture, we have the enormous total of ] 81,822,548 square yards. Of the imports above given the great bulk were of so called worsted dress goods (but including linings and Italian cloths, by reason of the tariff classification). Adding to the above total the carded wool dress goods manufactured in the United States we again increase our total to 234,608,118 square yards of material manufactured at home and abroad for the clothing of American women. These statistics show thajb the imported supply of worsted dress goods and Unings is considerably in excess of the domestic manufacture, which is true of no other branch of the wool manufacture. This class of goods constituted in 1889 about 37 per cent of the total imports of woolen goods of every class and description. The foreign value of these imported dress goods in 1890 was $22,668,293, and their duty-paid value was $39,159,241, as against a value of $15,821,087 of domestic wool dress goods, $16,328,836 of domestic worsted goods, and $1,255,520 of domestic Italian cloths, linings, etc., the total value of the kindred domestic productions being $33,405,443, showing that the duty paid value of the import of these goods exceeded the mill value of the domestic production of similar goods by the sum of $5,753,798. The imports of dress goods are separately classified as part wool or cotton warp goods and all-wool goods. ' The average foreign value of the cotton warp dress goods imported in 1890 was 20 cents per square yard, their duty paid value 33 cents. The average foreign value of the all-wool dress goods imported was 20 cents per square yard, and their average duty paid value 38 cents per square yard. The average value at the mill of the domestic products in worsted dress goods in 1890 was 22 cents, which maintains a striking relationship to the average foreign value of the imported competing goods, and is 16 cents less than the average duty paid value of these goods. The American manufacturers have of late years practically supplied the home market for the cheaper grades of mixed dress goods. The importations of these grades consist largely of novelties, in the production of which the Bradford manufacturers are particularly expert. The further analysis of the domestic production of worsted dress goods divides them into 11,349,319 square yards of all-wool goods, valued at $3,905,398, an average value per square yard of 34.41 cents ; and 62,557,940 square yards of cotton warp or mixed dress goods, valued at $12,423,438, an average value of 19.86 cents per square yard. It is clear, therefore, that the domestic production of all-wool dress goods does not yet equal one-sixth of the average annual consumption of the American people. But even this proportion indicates a very decided gain, which was almost wholly secured within the decade between 1880 and 1890. It was not until a few years ago that our manufacturers ventured to attempt this manufacture, except experimentally, the trial usually demonstrating the impossibility of competing to advantage with the French in a field which they have made peculiarly their own and in which they meet with only desultory competition from the manufacturers of other European nations. The products of their mills are recognized throughout the world as inimitable, so far as artistic pattern and dyeing are concerned, and exhibit a perfection of finish which stamps them as the most perfect fabrics in the whole range of the textile industry. In entering this field American manufacturers have had to contend with the strong popular prejudice in favor of the French goods, and with the problem of reconciling prices with much greater labor cost. The proportion of labor cost increases in an inverse ratio as the size of the yarn becomes finer. Thus the operative who can spin 60 pounds a day of the yarns known as 40's is reduced in his production to say 30 pounds when spinning 60's, and to 15 pounds if he spins 80's. The capacity of the machinery is reduced in the same manner. That is to say, there will be twice as many yards of yarn to a pound for 40's as for 20's, and as each yard has more turns of twist TEXTILES— WOOL. 57 per inch in 40's than iu 20's tlie production per frame in pounds is much smaller for 40's than for 20's. Considerations of this character are of prime importance in determining the question whether we are likely to succeed in domesticating the important industry of fine all-wool dress goods. In the meanwhile the census of 1890 shows remarkable progress in this direction, a progress which has since become even more marked. The goods of this description made by several of ovir leading worsted mills reveal a taste in their conception and a care and delicacy in their finish which permits them to sell in the markets side by side with the French stufi's. WORSTED GOODS FOB MEN'S "WEAK. This report has thus far spoken only of the history and statistics of the worsted manufactures of the United States in their relation to the lighter fabrics adapted to women's wear. The development of the other branch did not begin until more than twenty years later, but so rapid has been its progress that in 1890 the value of its products was nearly double the value of the products of the dress goods mills. There is some confusion as to the exact time and place when and where this manufacture began in the United States. Mr. John L. Hayes is authority for the statement that the first merino worsted coatings made in the United States were turned out by the Washington mills in 1870, under the inspiration of the late E. E. Mudge, who had been a United States commissioner to the Paris Exposition of 1867, and had been much impressed with specimens of these goods of French origin there exhibited. On the other hand, it is equally certain that similar fabrics were made at the same time by the Hockanum Company, at Rockville, Connecticut, and the Wanskuck mills in Rhode Island also commenced the manufacture of worsteds about 1870. Mr. Henry G. Kittredge, the editor of the Boston Journal of Commerce, writes as follows on this point: From the treasurer's annual report to the Washington mills' stockholders, December 24, 1868, we learn that iu 1864 two combing machines, with necessary preparing and spinning machinery, were purchased for making worsted yarns. With this machinery the mills experimented on various fabrics with more or less success until 1868, when, in the words of the report, " an article of >'ery general utility was perfected " for which new worsted machinery was bought, also looms of new and improved constniction for the manufacture of goods which had been before wholly imported, thus diversifying the product of the mills and adding one more and a verj' important branch to American industry. We have indisputable evidence tlmt about the middle of 1869 light-weight (12 oz.) worsteds were being manufactured in quantity, made from 2-60 yarn for warp and filling. It was not till the latter i)art of 1870, or the early part of 1871, that heavy weights were begun to be manufactured by these mills. It was many years before our manufacturers began to seriously compete with foreigners in this class of goods. The exj)ensive machinery required to manufacture the yarns employed was one obstacle in the way of a more rapid development, and another was the tariff discrimination in the act of 1883 against this class of goods. The tariff of that year, like all previous tariffs, was apparently arranged on the theory that the worsted manufacture was confined to " stuff" goods, so called, for women's wear, to which it was wholly limited prior to 1870. Worsted cloths \\'ere entered at rates of duty so much lower than those applied to cloths made of carded wool that the domestic market was chiefly supplied from foreign mills. The development of the worsted industry was retarded by these conditions; but the popularity of these fabrics increased so rapidly that many mills adapted their machinery to its production. The former fancy cassimere makers especially were ready to adopt a fabric which was well adapted to their looms and required but little change in their machinery beyond the substitution of combs for cards. But in most cases they purchased their worsted yarns from the great combing and spinning establishments which sprang up. The making of worsted cloths thus practically became an adjunct, not of the original worsted industry, but of the woolen cloth manufacture. It is worthy of note that the first important movement toward the specialization of the wool manufacture in this country, after the method which distinguishes it in France and England, dates from the introduction of the worsted cloth manufactture, and about the year 1870. Up to that period the worsted manufacture had been chiefly carried on in mills possessing all the appurtenances necessary to turn out the completed product from the raw wool to the finished goods. It is true there existed a few mills prior to this date engaged solely in yarn spinning, and particularly carpet, zephyr, and hosiery yarns. But the real development of worsted spinning as a separate industry has occurred since 1870. The quantity of worsted cloths of all descriptions produced during the census year was 28,469,887 square yards, valued at $32,299,578, as compared with 5,726,994 running yards produced in 1880, and reported in the census of that year under the heads of coatings, suitings, and overcoatings among the products o." both worsted and woolen mills. These figures show how enormous has been the increase in the consumption of this class of goods. The quantity is still, however, nutch smaller than the production of woolen cloths for similar wear, which was 127,109,190 square yards. BUNTING. Up to the close of the civil war all the bunting used in the United States was manufactured in England, where it was made of the long combing wools peculiar to that country. In 1865 the United States Bunting Company was organized at Lowell, Massachusetts, and at once successfully achieved the manufacture of this important fabric ; and tins establishment, together with the ^STew England Bunting Company, located iu the same city, now supply practically all of this material used in the United States. They have shown great skill, not only in the manufacture of the materials of which our national flags are made, but also in the construction of the flags themselves. 58 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The total quantity of bunting made in 1890 was 566,880 square yards, valued at $135,983. Practically the whole of this production was used for flags. The census of 1880 reported 2,230,221 running yards of bunting manufactured in worsted mills in that year and 355,000 running yards manufactured in woolen mills. In explanation of these larger figures it may. be said that at the time the census of 1880 was taken a material known as bunting was very popular as a wearing apparel for women, and the great bulk of the product reported was used for that purpose. The fashion then in vogue no longer obtains, or, if there is still a limited quantity of the fabric made for this purpose, it is now included in the worsted dress-goods products of 1890. WOESTED BEAIDS. The manufacture of worsted braids in this country was successfully established in 1861, at Pawtucket, Ehode Island, by the late Darius Goff, who began with six braiding machines. Experimental efforts had preceded Mr. Goff's venture, but his was the iirst establishment to persist in the enterprise until it was crowned with success. The machines for braiding in use in this and other mills were of American invention, made expressly for the purpose, and they were great improvements over those then employed in England, being much simpler and requiring about half the power to operate them. The quantity of braids and braiding is reported in running yards. The quantity and value of these goods, the location of the establishments making them, and the number of braiding machines employed are shown in the following* table : STATES. Number of es- tablish- ments. Yards. Value. dumber of braiders. 11 104, 205, 251 $1,264,622 2 3 5 1 20, 085, 888 26, 537, 240 40, 856, 750 16, 726, 373 266, 001 338, 000 545, 249 115, 372 2,400 4,300 4,050 In 1880, braids were reported by dozens of pieces to the number of 2,612,691 dozens. The increase in the production has been enormous in the ten years, and the domestic market is practically supplied by the home product. PLUSHES AND PILE FABRICS. An important branch of the worsted manufacture, the manufacture of mohair plushes and other similar pile fabrics for upholstery purposes, has been successfully established in this country since the census of 1880 was taken. Three mills were equipped for this specialty very nearly contemporaneously about 1882, that of the Tingue Manufacturing Company, at Seymour, Connecticut; D. Goff & Sons, at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, and the Goodell Brothers, of the Saiiford Mills, in Maine, who established the manufacture of plush carriage robes and velours in this country in 1867. Great embarrassments attended the establishment of the upholstery plush manufacture in this country on account of the diflflculty in obtaining the proper weaving machinery. The manufacture of mohair plushes was confined at that time to Prance and Germany, where the peculiar looms employed were kept under the closest surveillance. Repeated attempts to procure this machinery abroad were baffled, and the result was the invention of American patterns, of which difi'erent mechanisms were evolved by each of the establishments named. Mr. Goff's loom, originally based upon an English patent, was finally, after five years of experiment, perfected on an entirely novel plan, and these looms now produce a fabric In every way equal to the best plushes made abroad, and with much greater economy of labor. The product of .these and other mills is now sufadent to practically supply the domestic market, which is very large, not less than 3,500 railway cars being annually upholstered with their goods. The success of the experiment in plush manufacturing has been followed by an extraordinary development in the production of a great variety of pile fabrics and kindred goods for upholstery and house decoration purposes. The artistic element has had ample field for play in these products, and the evidences of originality and the power to create striking effects which are shown in many of these goods have brought the American textile manufacture suddenly and favorably into the notice of the world. This has been particularly the case in what are known as chenille goods, largely used for household decoration. Cotton is the fiber chiefly used in these goods, and with a few exceptions they have been returned to the census under that branch of manufacture. Silk and worsted are used to a large extent in the making of the higher grades of these fabrics, and the manufacture has grown so rapidly since 1880 that it may hereafter be properly recognized as a distinct branch of the textiles, to be separately treated, and one which holds out the highest promise and opportunity for the fature. TEXTILES— WOOL. 59 CLASS III— CAEPBTS. The manufacture of carpets is regarded as the most characteristic branch of the textile industries of the United States. Two causes have contributed to the unique development of this branch of the wool manufacture. One was the extraordinary contribution of American invention to the mechanism of carpet manufacture, exceeding in value and importance those of all other nations combined. Another is the general prosperity of our people and the high wages earned, permitting families in all grades of life to indulge in the luxury of floor coverings, and creating a large and lucrative market. In this respect mechanical manufacturing has effected a great change in the comfort and habits of our people. Up to the middle of the last century a carpet was a curiosity even in the home.s of the wealthy. Such as existed were chiefly of the variety known as rag carpets, made then as now in the family. The first carpet manufactory of whose existence in this country there is any record was established in Philadelphia in 1791 by William Peter Sprague. The census of 1820 reported small quantities of wool carpeting woven by hand at Newport, Rhode Island, in Queens county, New York, and in Frederick county, Maryland, but this was presumably rag carpeting. In 1825, Alexander Wright, a native of Scotland, started a small carpet mill at Medway, Massachusetts, which he operated for a time with hand looms brought from Scotland. After passing through several hands the mill and machinery were sold in 1825 to the Lowell Manufacturing Company, then recently organized for the manufacture of carpets and cotton goods, and when the Lowell mill was completed the machinery was removed to that city. The origin of that great establishment is thus definitely fixed. Very shortly the Lowell Company was running 70 carpet looms, and producing weekly 2,500 yards of ingrain, brussels, and other carpeting, and 150 rugs. The census of 1860 records that in 1830 a manufactory of imitation brussels and ingrain carpets was started at Carlisle, Pennsylvania; that in 1833 there were three carpet mills in operation in Columbia county, New York, and large mills at New Haven, Connecticut, and Norwich, Connecticut, and that by 1834 there were in operation at least 511 hand carpet looms in from 18 to 20 mills. Upon these looms were made annually 21,600 yards of brussels, 31,5.00 yards of 3-ply ingrain, 954,000 yards of other ingrain, 132,000 yards of Venetian, and 8,400 yards of damask Venetian, a total of 1,147,500 yards, having an average value of $1 a yard. This production has since multiplied more than 70 times. At the same time many families were supplying themselves with rag carpeting made at home, and the quantity of rag carpets made in the household for sale was much greater than at present. Mr. Hayes wrote that it was within his personal recollection that at about the same time the manufacture of ingrain carpets was undertaken at Great Falls, in New Hampshire, by power, the apparatus for making the figure automatically being a large cylinder or drum, upon which pins or blocks were placed corresponding to the pattern to be woven, the cylinder operating like that of a music box. This apparatus was also used at Little Falls, in New Jersey. This, as well as other automatic devices elsewhere tried, was finally abandoned, as operating less favorably than the hand loom. In 1844 the hand loom, both in Europe and this country, was universally used for making carpets. The real development of our carpet industry dates from the successful application of power to the carpet loom, as the result of experiments and inventions made by Erastus B. Bigelow, of Boston, Massachusetts. Many improvements had in the meanwhile been made in the hand loom, and several patents were issued to manufacturing American inventors. Up to the time when Mr. Bigelow succeeded in making the carpet loom automatic the English machinery was superior to our own, and the jealousy with which it was guarded made it impossible for American manufacturers to equal the carpets then imported from England in much larger quantities, relatively, than has since been the ease. In co-operation with Mr. George W. Lyman, treasurer of the Lowell Company, who supplied the funds, Mr. Bigelow worked out the device he had conceived, and by 1844 the successful weaving of ingrain carpets by power had been achieved at Lowell. From that point the history of the ingrain carpet manufacture in this country has been a record of constantly extending development. The Hartford Carpet Company, next to the Lowell the earliest organized of our large carpet manufactories, at once adopted Mr. Bigelow's invention under arrangements with the patentees, and other establishments followed suit. Mr. Bigelow next devoted his euergies to the invention of power looms for weaving jacquard brussels and wilton carpets. The results of his labors being oifered to the Lowell Company and not accepted, Mr. Bigelow established a factory of his own at Clinton, Massachusetts, which was organized into the Bigelow Carpet Company in 1854, and became the largest establishment in the world, uniting under one management all the processes of spinning, dyeing, and weaving jacquard brussels, and wilton carpets. The supplemental report of the jury at the London Exposition of 1851 declared that the specimens of these classes of carpets exhibited by Mr. Bigelow were " better and more perfectly woven than any hand loom carpets that had ever come under the notice of the jury ". This, however, was but a small part of their merit, or rather that of Mr. Bigelow, "who has completely triumphed over the numerous obstacles that presented themselves, and succeeded in substituting steam power for manual labor in the manufacture of five frame brussels carpets ". English manufacturers were quick to appreciate the importance of this invention, and an arrangement was made by Crossley & Sons for placing the new looms in their immense establishment at Halifax. Subsequently 60 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. this compauy iiurchased Mr. Bigelow's pateut rights for the whole of the United Kingdom. The right to use his; patents was sold to a few mills in the United States, and until their expiration the manufacture of these particular- carpets was confined to these mills. Still another of Mr. Bigelow's inventions was for weaving tapestry carpets, so called. This style of carped, known both as tapestry brussels and tapestry velvet, of comparatively recent invention, is now extensively manufactured both in England and the United States. It is particularly adapted to meet the demand for brilliant effects at popular prices; for there is no form of carpet where so handsome an appearance can be secured at so low a cost. Inall other carpets the yarns are dyed, and the process of arranging these many colored yarns for the loom, to work out an elaborate pattern, is slow and expensive. In the tapestry carpet the colors are printed upon the warp threads in such a manner that when the warps are woven they form the desired figure. The room for the application of color and design is therefore unlimited.. This method of printing the warps, originally invented by a Scotchman about 1832, was perfected by John Orossley, of Halifax, in 1842. It was first undertaken in this country by John Johnson, at Newark, New Jersey, in 1846, with 25 hand looms. This establishment was subsequently removed to Eoxbury, Massachusetts, where the inventive genius of Michael M. Simpson brought the manufacture to the highest state of efficiency. A number of our largest carpet mills are now employed in the manufacture of tapestries. The progress made in this manufacture is attested by certain records kept by the Eoxbury Company. The product of the first hand looms was but 5 yards per loom per day. In 1856 the product of each power loom in these mills was 16 yards. In 1876 the average product of each of 114 looms was 49.5 yards per day, and this average has since been slightly increased. The American manufacture of Axminster carpets, the most luxurious carpet that comes from the power loom, and previously manufactured only in France and England on hand looms, dates only from the year 1867. A l)atent for weaving these carpets by power was awarded to Alexander Smith and Halcyon Skinner in 1856; but the destruction of their factory by fire, and other obstacles, prevented its utilization until 1867, since which time the iiroduct of their mill has in some years equaled the entire annual i)roduction of these high grade carpets in France and Great Britain. The census record of the statistics of carpet manufacture begins with 1850, and its subsequent growth by ten-year periods is epitomized in the following table: STATISTICS OF CAEPET MILLS : 1850-1890. 1850. 1860. 1870. 1880. 1890. ] Kumber of I establieh- I menta 116 213 215 195 173 Capital. $3, 852, 981 4, 721, 768 12,540,750 21.468,687 a38, 208, 842 Miscella- neous expenses. Average number of employes. Total wages. $1, 246, 560 1, 545, 692 4,681,718 6, 835, 218 11,633,116 6,186 6,681 12, 008 20. 371 29, 121 $1, 819, 441 Cost of ma- terials used. .$3, 075, 592 4, 417, 986 13, 577, 993 18, 984, 877 28, 644, 905 Value of produets. $5, 401, 234 7, 857, 636 21, 761, 573 31, 792, 802 47, 770, 193 a This amount does not include the value of "Hired property ". Although there has been a decrease in the number of carpet manufacturers reporting from 195 in 1880 to 173 in 1890, there has been a very marked increase in the capital, in the number of employes, in the amount of wages, and in the quantity and value of products. The number of sets of- cards increased from 285 to 392. The number of combing machines decreased from 155 to 118, indicating the great increase in the purchase of yarns by weavers of carpets who find it to their advantage to have their worsted yarns spun for them. Of the combing machines credited to the worsted manufacture in this report a large number belong strictly to the carpet industry, since they are engaged exclusively in making yarns of the numbers 12 to 17, employed only by the carpet manufacturers. They were probably so credited in 1880. The number of spindles employed in the carpet manufacture proper was 208,858, of which 53,046 were woolen, 151,132 worsted, and 4,680 cotton spindles. In 1880 the number of woolen spindles was 32,853, and 82,256 worsted spindles. These statistics of the spinning machinery of the carpet manufacture are no clew whatever to its status. To a degree unknown in any other branch of wool manufacturing the carpet weavers purchase yarns from spinners whose .machinery and product are necessarily classified in this report either with the woolen or the worsted mills. In the city of Philadelphia, where there were 133 carpet mills reporting out of the 173 in the whole country, there were only 12 establishments which spun their own yarns. The decrease in the number of combing machines between 1880 and 1890 shows that this specialization of the industry is rapidly increasing. The loom is therefore the only true guide to the mechanical growth of this industry. The total number of looms employed in carpet mills has increased from 7,252 in 1880 to 11,235 in 1890. This increase shows the rapid transfer of this industry from the hand to the power loom, the hand looms employed decreasing from 3,995 in 1880 to 2,697 in 1890, and the power looms increasing from 3,257 in 1880 to 8,538 in 1890. TEXTILES— WOOL. 61 The cliange fi'oiti liaud looms to power looms did not l)egin to become general in Philadelphia, the great seat of the industry in the United States, until about 1873. The hand looms had been invariably worked by men; the po\\-er looms are almost as generally operated by women, and consequently the increase in production, equaling about 100 per cent, was accompanied not only by a decrease in actual labor cost, but also by a decrease in the wages of weavers. The earnings of power loom weavers have never reached the standards paid to hand loom weavers, although they have been steadily tending upward since 1873. The substitution of the power loom has proceeded much more rapidly in the United States than elsewhere. Indeed, the carpet manufacture may still be called a hand manufacture, except in the United States. F. H. Wigfall, United States consul at Leeds, reports the number of looms in that district, which is the chief center of the English carpet manufacture, as 1,166 in 1889, of which all but 00 were hand looms. At Tunstall, where the ingrain carpets are chieily manufactured, the proportion of power looms is no greater. The persistence in the use of the hand loom is explained by Mr. Shoenhof, in a consular report, as due to the fact that the cost of production is nearly the same in both cases, "and hand loom weaving offers to the manufacturer the advantage that he need not sink the greater part of his capital into fixed charges of costly machinery". The hand looms generally belong to the weaver, who is supplied with yarns by the manufacturer, who may thus be a person owning no machinery or buildings of any kind. A hand loom in England costs £13 or $63, while a power loom costs £120 or $580, and a good hand loom weaver will turn out about 60 yards of ingrain carpet per week. Several of the English manufacturers who have introduced the power loom have been successful, and a change similar to that which has occurred in the United States must eventually take place in Great Britain, the experience of this country demonstrating beyond question that it is the most advantageous method of manufacturing. In the present census there has been secured a closer subdivision of the number of looms employed upon each variety of icarpets than has heretofore been made. The number of ingrain power looms has increased from 1,873 to 4,214; the number of brussels power looms from 756 to 1,224, and the number of tapestry brussels looms from 547 to 1,498. There has been an increajsed pi'oduction from this increased weaving machinery very nearly commensurate with the enlarged capacity thus indicated, as is shown by the following table, in which the relative quantities of the different varieties of carpets manufactured in 1890 and 1880 are set forth in detail: CARPETS. 1890 1880 YEARS 1890 1880 Total carpets (running yards). 74, 770, 910 39, 282. 634 Ingram, 2-ply (square yards) . 32, 918, 659 21, 986, 434 Ingram, | Ingrain 3-ply (square ! art (square yards). : yards). Venetian (running yards) . Body brussels (running yards) . , 251, 368 862, 394 553,513 1, 984, 201 6, 245, 465 4,077,190 Tapestrj-, Tapestry, brussels velvet' (running (running yards). yards). 23. 205, 844 9, 441, 195 2, 482. 128 60, 000 Wilton (running yards). 1, 030, 101 157, 629 Axmiuster (running yards). 379, 341 303, 366 Moquette | Smyrna (running i (square yards). yards). 127. 177 The ordinary ingrain carpet width is one yard, but other carpets are usually made tliree-quarters of a yard in width. These figures show an inciease of about 90 per cent in the production of carpets. The increase in the manufacture of rugs and art squares is even greater than in carpets. In 1880 the census reported the manufacture of 40,000 separate druggets. In 1890 the druggets are reported in square yards, of which there were 103,258 square yards manufactured. In rugs of all descriptions there were made in 1880 47,530, and in 1890 1,563,303. Many of our largest manufacturers turned their machinery largely to the making of rugs, in response to the popular taste for partially covered floors. The greater part of this manufacture was of the cheaper grades, but the product also contained many rugs of a very high quality of material and workmanship, commendablf^ for the skill and taste displayed in coloring and pattern. While these American rugs do not take the place of the eastern hand made rugs, which remain unrivaled by the products of machine manufacture, they easily stand the test of comparison with any similar work done in Europe. Just before the census year the setting and weaving the patterns of Smyrna rugs by power looms was successfully achieved in Philadelphia. The patent for this loom became the subject of litigation, and the finding of the court was singular in this, that it states the conception of setting Smyrna rugs by power occurred about the same time to three different persons, namely, Joseph H. Bromley, of John Bromley & Sons; Thomas Bromley, jr., of the Bromley Brothers Cturpet Company, and George W. Stewart, of John Stewart & Son. Looms constructed after plans made by each of these gentlemen were in actual operation during the census year. These looms are provided with a double shuttle-box on each side, and a mechanism which stops the loom after every two picks, and another bv which it 62 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. may be started again by the foot. The Smyrna rug or carpet is a double-faced fabric, one side being the fac simile of the other. They are woven with one warp and two wefts, one of the latter consisting of coarse jute, the other of party-colored twisted chenille, a thread of each being shot or thrown alternately. After each weft of chenille is shot, it is uecesssary for the weaver to set or adjust it with reference to the preceding weft of chenille, so as to form the figure, and to accomplish this the loom must be thrown out of action, after every second shot or pick. The mechanism above described successfully accomplishes the stopping and starting of the loom for these purposes. Before 1889 none of these carpets or rugs were made except upon hand looms ; and of the 127,177 square yards of carpets reported as manufactured in the census year, almost the whole were of hand manufacture. The first Smyrna carpets manufactured in the United States date from about 1877, and the quantity made in 1880 was so small that they were not separately reported. The American carpet manufacturers have won the command of their home market in all grades and styles ot carpets, except the hand-made rugs referred to. The importations have fallen steadily, until in 1890 they comprised less thau 600,000 square yards, valued at $1,564,890, nearly the whole of which quantity consisted of eastern hand made rugs. They have been aided in this achievement by the skill and good taste they have shown in the preparation of patterns and colors and by loyalty to the requirements of high art. Some deficiencies in dyeing, which interfered with the popularity of their high grade products in the earlier years, have been entirely overcome. The American industry as it stands to-day has a capacity to supply every variety of carpet required to meet every possible want, from the rich and luxuriant wilton and axminster, of limited demand and high price, through all the medium grades to the sightly and useful carpet, composed of the cheapest materials and adapted to the most modest homes. Of the total product of carpets reported in 1890 the state of Pennsylvania produced 41,198,175 square yards, or 55.10 per cent. I CLASS IV— PELT GOODS. The felt manufacture has been one of the distinctive features of the industry in the United States, although the volume of its products is small compared with those we have been considering. It was first separately enumerated in 1880, and the growth of this branch in the interval is shown in the following table: STATISTICS OF FELT MILLS. GENERAL HEADS. 1880 : 1890 26 34 $1, 958, 254 \ o$4, 460, 621 j 232,871 1,524 1 2,266 $439, 760 1 $1, 041, 296 $2,530,710 1 $2,809,937 $3,619,652 $4,654,768 a This amount does not include value of " Hired property "- The products of felt manufacture constitute an almost innumerable variety of articles. The largest single item is felted cloths, of which 2,628,546 square yards are reported, valued at $986,888. These cloths are used for a great variety of miscellaneous purposes other thau clothing, into which they do not largely enter, except as skirts and skirting. They were among the earliest forms of wool manufacturing attempted in the United States, Mr. Thomas E. Williams, of Newport, Rhode Island, having succeeded in inventing about 1820, the process of making- felt cloth of commercial length, which he patented in England in 1830, and which was subsequently successfully operated in the Bay State mills at Lawrence, under exclusive rights, for many years. The exceptions to this monopoly were a fabrication of felt cloths, conducted in Norwich, Connecticut, under the Bishop patent, and the manufacture of hat bodies, conducted under the Wells patent. It is an interesting historical incident that this simple method of working wool, which was undoubtedly the earliest form of the manufacture in antiquity, should have passed almost wholly into desuetude until it was revived and perfected by one of our own countrymen. M. Koeppelin, a French expert, writing iu 1869, made the following allusion to the subject: In apite of the simplicity of its fabrication, and in spite of tlie antiquity of its origin, felting was for a long time abandoned to the lesser industries. It is only within thirty years that the mechanical fabrication of felted cloths has been essayed. Many fruitless attempts were made in this direction in France and in other countries, and it is only to the inventive genius of two Americans, Wells and Williams, that we owe the processes now in use, and which have not been materially modified since the epoch of their discovery. These processes were at once applied in France and England, and they are now extensively employed in the latter country in the manufacture of printed felt-carpetings, which are exported to all parts of the world and are popular because of their comparative cheapness. The production of these felt carpetings is relatively small in this country, 185,338 square yards being reported under the head of druggets, with a value of $91,742, their place being supplied by the cheaper grades of ingrain carpeting. Other forms of goods produced in the felt mills are TEXTILES— WOOL. 63 table and piano covers, hat felts, saddle felts, and rubber shoe linings. The miscellaneous products of the industry which are not separately enumerated include felt slippers and shoe soles, sheathing materials, polishing felts, for polishing furniture and marble, etc. There is an almost infinite variety of forms into which felted wool is manufactured, and nearly all of them are successfully conducted in this country, though generally on a small scale. One highly important form of felt manufacture which has been successfully introduced since the last census by Alfred Dolge, at Dolgeville, New York, is the making of piano felt, for piano keys, an industry which was previously confined to two factories in England, two in Prance, and four in Germany. Another considerable product of the felt mills are the endless belts used as blankets for paper making machines. This material is a woven fabric, very highly felted to produce strength and endurance, and it requires great care and nicety in its manufacture. ' 216,982 square yards of this blanketing was pioduced in the census year. The census of 1880 made no return whatever of these blankets; and, as a matter of fact, the;:'e were but few of them made in this country at that time, the paper manufacturers finding that the American blankets were inferior to those made in Germany, where practically all of these blankets were made uj) to a recent period. Since the manufacture was begun in good earnest in this country constant imi)rovenients have been effected in this class of goods, which have indirectly resulted in marked reductions in the cost of paper. The domestic production of these blankets is already largely in excess of the imported quantity. A single decade has therefore suf&ced to enable our manufacturers to conquer this branch of the industry. CLASS V— WOOL HATS. The manufacture of wool hats has always been an important branch of our domestic wool manufacture. In his tables, prepared on the basis of the returns of the census of 1810, Tench Goxe reported the value of " hats made of wool, fur, etc., with mixtures of them", to be $4,323,744. Of this production about $100,000 was exported, and as the importation of hats of all kinds were then valued at but $350,000, it will be seen that the industry then occupied a unique position and jjossessed a relative importance among the occupations of the people which it long since lost. The industry was at that time essentially a household one, and was one of the last branches of the wool manufacture to adapt itself to factory conditions. Up to about 1822 each locality had, in addition to its sawmill, gristmill, store, and blacksmith shop and shoemaker's shop, the hat shop, in which the boss hatter, with one or two apprentices, manufactured hats for the surrounding district. This primitive establishment latterly obtained its supply of stock from the city merchants, w^ho furnished the carded wool, the web being wound on a drum, thus forming a bat. or lap, as it was sometimes called, or by allowing the web to fall directly on the floor. The wool was manipulated by the hatter by means of the bow and bowstring, which was skillfiilly applied to the carded wool until it was flattened out into a hat of irregular form; then, by ingenious handling and putting a number of the bats together, the hat body in conical shape was finally formed. In 1822 a machine was invented for forming wool hat bodies. This machine operated by winding the web from the doft'er directly upon the cone and forming one body at a time, the web being wound straight around the cone without crossing. Three years later the double cone former, which crosses the web by a vibrating motion and runs it from one end of the cone to the other, at the same time revolving on conical cylinders and covering the entire cone, was invented and patented. This machine, with many improvements, is still in use. Various other machines, also designed to form hat bodies automatically, were invented in subsequent years by American mechanics, and the factory manufacture of wool hats soon deprived the local hat maker of his occupation. A marked reduction in cost was effected and the consumption greatly increased in consequence. Between 1830 and 1840 a number of hat manufactories came into existence and steadily increased their facilities for production. The hand manufacture of hats had been obliged to use lamb's wool only, as the bowstring would not work except upon the straight fiber of the lamb's fleece. With the machine manufacture wool of any kind sufficed, provided it possessed the requisite felting qualities. Prom 1830 to 1845 the flne German Saxony lamb's wool and also the fine Spanish wools were largely used for hat bodies as possessing the best felting qualities. The wool hat manufacture had been subject to the vicissitudes of fashion more disastrously, perhaps, than any other branch of the industry. The silk hat, when it first made its advent about 1845, nearly prostrated the wool hat industry, especially those establishments which had been engaged in making the finer qualities, napped with fur. At a later date the development of the fur hat industry affected the wool hat manufacture even more seriously, and the effect of the competition is strikingly shown in the present statistics. The statistics of the industry have been very irregularly reported in the census, owing to the fact that the increasing use of other materials than wool has made it less and less distinctively a bran(;h of the wool manufacture. Prior to 1860 no separation was attempted. From the census of that year it appears that the industry consumed 3,039,700 pounds of wool and 1,658,520 pounds of fur, and produced 6,191,482 wool hats and 2,462,974 soft or felt wool hats, as compared with 2,449,672 fur hats. At no subsequent census has the number of wool hats equaled the number of fur hats manufactured, and the latter now greatly predominate. -64 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The census of 1870 made no separate return of wool hats, but included them among the 483 establishments anaking hats and caps of all descriptions, to the value of $24,848,167. The trade data for that year indicate that there were then about 300 sets of 24-iuch cards employed in the United States in the manufacture of wool hats, with a daily capacity of 15 dozen hats to the set. The census of 1880 showed 362 sets of cards employed in the Industry, manufacturing 1,391,862 dozen wool hats, value not separately given. The census of 1890 shows the number of sets of cards reduced to 229, and the product of wool hats reduced to 972,475 dozens, valued at $4,612,151, or an average value of $4.74 per dozen. These figures illustrate the manner in which the wool hat manufacture has suffered from the competition of the fur hats, made originally from the fur of the beaver, and since that (disappeared, from the fur of rabbits, hares, kangaroos, and similar animals. The wool hat manufacture is thus rapidly being superseded by that of fur hats, as may be inferred from the following comparative table : STATISTICS OF "WOOL HAT MILLS : 1880 AND 1890. YEARS. Number of establish- 1 ments. i 1880 43 1890 32 1 Capital. $3, 615, 830 04, 142, 224 Miscella- neous expenses. $249, 568 Average number of employes. 5,470 3,592 Total wages. $1, 893, 215 1, 363, 944 Cost of materials used. $4, 785, 774 2, 802, 041 Value of products. $8, 516, 569 5, 329, 921 a This amount does not include value of " Hired property " These figures do not mean that the manufacture of hats has fallen into decadence in the ten years, but simply that the fur hat is superseding the all wool hat in popular favor. In consequence many of the mills formerly engaged exclusively in the wool hat manufacture now produce chiefly of the other variety, and the statistics of their mills have therefore been transferred to the other industry. In the materials consumed in the manufacture of fur hats is included a large quantity of wool, the record of which is lost to this inquiry. CLASS VI.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS. Not unlike the worsted manufacture in the rapidity of its development, and almost equaling it in the value ^nd volume of its products, is the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods. The knit goods industry did not exist in this country as a branch of manufacture, properly so called, until 1832, when the principle of knitting by power was first successfully attained at Cohoes, New York, by Egbert Egberts. His machine was simply the square stocking frame of William Lee adajited to power. It produced a stocking web 28 inches wide at the rate -of one inch per minute, which was cut off at proper lengths and shaped and seamed to form the stocking. The cost of manufacture was thus reduced to nearly one-tenth of what it had formerly been, and the enormous possibilities of the new industry were at once foreshadowed. It inaugurated a revolution in the character of underwear. Practically all this wear had been, up to that time, flannel goods, specially manufactured for that purpose, and fashioned and sewn at home, according to the individual needs. How nearly universal has become the use of knitted undergarments, how much more extensive has become the use of underwear, how vastly the comfort, the convenience, and the health of the masses have been promoted by this revolution, are too familiar to enlarge upon. It took many years to impart momentum to this impending revolution. Ten years after Bailey's power machine had been in operation the whole value of stockings, woven shirts, and woven drawers produced in the United States was not over $500,000. The machine itself was still far from a perfect automatic machine, and it had not yet been introduced at all in England. Cognizance of the existence of this industry was not taken by the census until 1850. The rapidity of its development from that date is shown by the following table of the comparative statistics of the industry : STATISTICS OF HOSIERY AND KNITTING MILLS : 1850-1890. 1850. 1860. 1870. 1880. 1890. Number of establish- ments. 197 248 359 796 Capital. $544, 735 4, 035, 510 10, 931, 260 15, 579, 591 aSO, 607, 738 Miscella- neous expenses. Average nurabei of employes. Total wages. 2,325 9,103 14, 788 28, 885 61, 209 $360, 336 1, 661, 972 4,429,085 6,701,475 18,263,272 $3, 627, 245 Cost of materials used. $415, 113 3, 202, 317 9, 835, 823 15, 210, 951 35, 861, 585 Value of products $1, 028, 102 7, 280, 606 18,411,564 29, 167, 227 67, 241, 013 a This amount does not include value of " Hired property ". The number of knitting machines employed in the manufacture, all descriptions being grouped without reference to kind or capacity, increased from 13,038 in 1880 to 36,462 in 1890. There is no earlier record of the number of knitting machines. TEXTILES— WOOL. 65 The origiiial establishments for the manufacture of knitted fabrics were small, and most of them continued to utilize knitting frames operated by hand. A factory at Portsmouth, New Hampshire, had been started in 1834, which did not introduce power until 1844; and in 1850 that state, now one of the largest producers of this class of goods, turned out a product of 3,000 dozen pairs of hosiery per year, a i^roduction considered so enormous that the managers of the single mill in existence doubted if a demand for this supply could be sustained, (a) A new impulse was given to the industry by the adoption of the circular knitting machine invented by Pepper in 1851, and the subsequent introduction of the somewhat similar machine invented by the Messrs. Aiken, father and son.* Improvements on these early machines followed rapidly during the next twenty years, the most important among them being of American origin. The number and variety of patented improvements in machinery specially adapted to this class of industry has exceeded those in any other branch of the textile manufacture, l^otable among them was the macliine of E. E. Kilbourne, first patented in 1858; the iirst automatic machine for the making of full fashioned goods, which effected a second revolution in the industry. But the basis of the present development of the industry was the outbreak of the civil war. during wliich the government became an enormous purchaser of the heavier and staple classes of hosiery goods, such as woolen shirts, drawers, blouses, and stockings. The great demand from this source, re-enforced by the complete protection which the tariff afforded, and the high prices of gold and exchange, led to the introduction of the manufacture of the finer styles of knitted goods, which had not been previously attempted in this country. Looms and machinery adapted for these goods were brought from abroad, skilled workmen were secured, and the knit-goods industry rapidly expanded to national importance. Merchantable hosiery and knit goods are of three varieties, as respects the stock used : goods m ade wholly of wool, those made wholly of cotton, and those made of wool and cotton mixed. The last are known commercially as " merino" goods. The word "merino", meaning originally the flue wool of a Spanish breed of sheep, has come to have this secondary and commercial meaning, for no reason that can be explained, but it is fixed and universally understood. The proportions of goods thus made, as respects material, are determined by the demands of the consumer. The tendency to the larger use of cotton is perceptible. The all-wool underwear, while commended in many quarters on hygienic grounds, contends with the obstacle of high prices, the objection that it shrinks excessively, and that it carries more warmth than is required or desirable during the greater portion of the year. These objections are met by the mixture of cotton with the wool in the spinning of the yarn. From the proportion of half and half, the percentage of cotton employed increases until we reach the al'l-cotton fabric, of which immense quantities are made, especially of the lighter grades for summer wear. On the basis of this division the product of the country in the census year was divided as follows: KIXDS. TOTAL. HALK HOSE. HOSE. SHIKTS AND DRAWERS. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. $67,241,013 7, 078, 505 $7, 434, 131 10, 062, 880 2, 242, .-.44 433, 083 7, 387, 259 $11,728,075 6, 861. 657 $32,961,997 4, 692, 209 3,335,362 15,975,477 16, 497, 395 16, 451, 999 19, 174, 809 15, 110, 810 1, 360, 824 376, 053 5, 341, 628 2, 892, 822 604, 773 3, 936, 5-i6 4, 722, 796 791, 227 6, 214, 052 1.088,841 2, .'26, 226 3, 246, 590 8,881,777 15, 055, 999 9, 024, 221 In the production of these goods raw wool, woolen yarn, and worsted yarn, aggregating 32,171,798 pounds and valued at $16,325,020 were used, as against 13,098,714 pounds of the same, valued at $7,433,708, used in 1880. Of cotton and cotton yarns used in their production the quantity was 64,681,466 pounds, valued at $11,301,188, as compared with 28,485,238 i^ounds of cotton and cotton yai'us, valued at $4,547,557, used in 1880. In addition to the above values cognizance should also be taken of the hosiery and knit goods products composed ■exclusively of silk, and separately reported under the silk manufacture, to the value of $1,156,172. This is a new development of the industry, which has almost wholly arisen during the past ten years. The smaller products of the knit goods industry are too numerous for separate classification and enumeration. In addition to hosiery and underwear they comprise a great variety of fancy goods, such as ladies' hoods, sha,wls, ■sontags, nubias, scarfs, comforters, basques, afghaus, leggings, mits, gloves, and the like, besides jersey cloth, which is simply a fabric knitted instead of woven, of which there were 3,065,057 square yards produced in the census year, valued at $2,157,692. In the manufacture of these fancy knitted goods, as well as of many qualities of stockings, the line of ■demarcation between factory and household manufacture often disappears. A number of large houses in the eastern states, who are described as manufacturers, possess no factory and employ no power. They buy yarns in a Bulletin National Association of Wool Manufacturers, xi, 02 2457- 66 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. large quantities, which are given out to women in the surrounding towns to be knitted at home into such special goods as the market requires. This method of manufacturing, as applied to these particular goods, has greatly increased during recent years; and the diflSculties attending a complete enumeration of the quantity and the value of products thus manufactured are insurmountable. There are millions of dollars worth of goods so made and sold which have escaped the vigilant search of the census agents. Another large product of knitted goods is enumerated with the glove industry, entering into goods whose chief material is some form of leather. Taken in all its ramifications therefore, and including products which are of semihousehold manufacture, this industry is much larger, in the value of its products, than the statistics indicate. It is a characteristic of the manufacture of knit goods by machinery that while a vast saving over knit goods by hand is effected, there still remains, for many of its products, a large portion of the work which must be done by hand connected with the finishing of the goods. TEXTILES— WOOL. 67 SUMMAEY AND CONCLUSION. This investigation has shown that the domestic wool manufacture had reached a point of development, in 1890, where it was fairly on a i^ar in many particulars with the same industry in European countries. Its relative importance may be partially measured by the fact that its consumption of wool now exceeds that of all other nations,, with the exception of Great Britain, and that the home production of goods now meets the requirements of the home market, with the exception of about 11, per cent- of the total value of the annual consumption of woolen goods, which is supplied by importations derived about equally from Great Britain and from the manufacturing countries of continental Europe. It is believed that this percentage of importations does not materially differ from that which prevails in these foreign countries, but on the other hand it is to be remembered that the United States is;. the only large wool manufacturing nation which does not manufacture at all for export. It would not be proper to conclude this report without allusion to certain points of inferiority, both in general) method and in the production of limited lines of goods, which are recognized by practical manufacturers who have- carefully studied conditions, here and abroad. In England, for instance, organization is better and attention fccw details is more thorough in consequence. In what may be called the economies of manufacture, the English surpass our own manufacturers as a rule and are probably not surpassed in the world. They have been trained in these economies by their long experience in catering to foreign markets, where they encounter a constantly closer competition. They possess certain definite advantages growing out of the less mobile character of the operative classes. It is common for English workmen in the textile industries to pass their entire lives in the same mill at. the same class of work. In the United States the factory population is constantly shifting, not only from mill to mill, but from town to town and into different occupations; and there is increasing difQculty in obtaining and' retaining i)roperly trained help. These conditions naturally affect not only the economies of manufacture, but alsov to a CLTtain extent the quality and character of the products. There are lines of high-grade goods in which the- American product does not regularly apijroach the fineness and perfection of finish peculiar to the goods of foreign mills, which have been exclusively employed on those particular lines for generations. This is especially noticeable' in connection with certain products which are the peculiar glory of the French manufacture. Other conditions have had their bearing in the struggle to overcome this inferiority. Some of these may be described in detail. I. In England the system of sorting and classifying wools is carried to such perfection that the wool market is amply supplied with all the different sorts, so that the manufacturer may profitably run his mill on the finest or the lowest sort. From the want of concentration of wool in our markets, and other causes, the American manufacturer sortshis own wool, and having it of different grades must make goods of corresponding grades. He must make low as well as high class fabrics ; and it has followed that there has been less tendency on the part of the domestic manufacture to confine itself to single s])ecialties, and to base reputation and success upon those specialties. II. American manufacturers have been handicapised, by the comparative lack of expert training in the important departments of designing and dyeing. While the importance of a close and skillful attention to the selection, preparation, and spinning of wool is not easily overestimated, yet it has become more important every year that the highest skill shall be employed in determining the organization of fabrics, both as to pattern and coloring. The wool manufacture has entirely changed in the last sixty years in this respect. Formerly it wan- employed ui^on plain textures, of plain colors. The introduction of fancy goods has made it impossible to determine from one season to anotherwhat freak or fluctuation in the popular taste will next dominate the market. In this state of facts the designing department becomes the real key to the success of the mill. To study the tendencies of the times, to anticipate tlieni if possible, to capture public favor by novelty of design or pattern, is an art which only long training can impart to great natural aptitude. In the same way the mysteries of the dye house are a study worthy of the highest minil, and the introduction of the aniline dyes has made possible new combinations and shades of coloring, which are constantly appearing. III. Tiie facilities for technical education in these important departments of manufacture are far superior, in all the manufacturing countries of Europe, to anything existing in the United States. Textile schools exist in Germany, Belgium, Austria, and France, equipped with the most skillful instructors and every appliance^ supported wholly or in part by the government, which turn out annually large bodies of carefully trained young men, who take their places in the factories, where they supplement by practical experience the instruction they have received in every department of the manufacture. Of late years similar educational institutions have been established at the chief textile centers of England, also the recipients of public support, and they have rapidly advanced to an efficiency almost equal to that of the continental schools. The influence of these institutions upon tlie development of the textile industries of the countries in which they are located has been greater than we refilize in this country, where we have depended, for the education of experts, upon the schooling of the mills themselves. One school, the Lowell School of Design, connected with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, has for many years supplied in a limited degree a training somewhat similar to that obtained in these foreign schools. In 1883 a second school, planned to cover instruction in all branches of the textile ijidustiy, was 68 MANUJ^ACTURING INDUSTRIES. •established in PMladelphia, in connection with the Pennsylvania Mnseum of Pine Arts, through the libierality and public siiirit of a few of the leading manufacturers of that city. It has already achieved a notable success, and its graduates are found in the leading mills throughout the country. But its resources are limited, and its capacity ■still more so, in view of the enormous development of our textile industries during the last quarter of a century. The more successful of our designers and experts in dyeing still come to us from across the water. The United States is far behind Europe in its facilities for the training of men and women in the great work of the application of arc to the textile manufacture. IV. In the mechanical departments, the best American mills do not at present suffer in comparison with those of any other country. We have seen that in the earlier years of the century our manufacturers were terribly handicapped by the inferiority of their machinery. This inferiority they gradually overcame, largely by original inventions, and in other particulars by the importation of foreign-built machinery. The catalogue of American contributions to the mechanical development of wool manufacture is so imposing that the late Dr. Hermann Orothe, the Grermaa expert, was led to write that it is not surpassed by that of any other nation, not excepting even England, (a) He says there are repeated cases where American finishing machinery has been exported to England and France to become the basis of other improvements, claimed to be original, and essentially contributing to the establishment in those countries of the textile industries. This is prominently the case, he adds, with the machinery for fulling, gigging, and shearing cloth ; the fulling mill with rollers is completely an American invention ithat of John Dyer, patented in 1833) ; the invention of the double-crank shaft fulling mill was made by Levi Osborne in 1804, commencing a great series of constructions of the same principle; all the English gigging mills were patented after the gigging mills in America of Christie Olney, Barrows, Beck, Wells, and others, had appeared; the merit of the invention of the cylinder shearing machine belongs to Samuel Griswold Dorr, and of the pressing machine with steam to Seth Hart, who received a patent in 1812. The invention of machinery for the manufacture of felted cloths is exclusively American in its origin. The principle of all the machines for burring wool used here and abroad, viz, striking the burr from a card or toothed cylinder by means of a rapidly revolving guard or blade, was first applied to a machine about 1833 by Michael H. Simpson, of Boston, whose improvements upon the Couillard combing machine were also of a nature so radical as to entitle them to rank as original inventions. Allusion has already been made to the Goulding invention, which dispensed with the billy, and which has been described by Dr. Hayes as " the most important of all contributions to the card- wool industry of the world during the present century ". Power was first applied to the knitting machine in the United States in 1832 by Egbert Egberts, at Cohoes, New York, and in the variety, the ingenuity and the importance of the knitting machines for making fashioned knit goods the American contributions are more important than those of all other countries combined. The power carpet loom, in all its varieties, is wholly an American conception. Of looms generally it is recognized that the American inventions and subsidiary appliances are superior in every respect to those of any other country, and they are now made and largely used abroad under concessions from the patentees. In the subsidiary improvements of machinery for the manufacture of wool, in the scouring machines, the feeding appliances, the automatic slop actions, the thousand smaller, mechanisms which increase efficiency and 7'production, which economize labor, and impart regularity and perfection of manufacture, the American . contributions have been innumerable, and they have advanced the manufacture, in matters of detail, quite as far, ; although by less radical steps, as the machines which involved the application of some new principle in mechanism. 1 Many of our mills are in no sense behind the best English mills in the application of these minor mechanisms. 'While the American visitor in English mills will be struck with some radical points of difference in equipment, he '.will conclude that in point of general mechanical efficiency the industry occupies practically the same footing in kbofh countries. The most striking point of difference in mechanical organization lies in the fact that English mills, like those of France and G-ermany, are as a rule equipped for special classes of work, to the exclusion of all others, while the American mills as generally are equipped for a great variety of processes and of products. The advantages gained by this..specialization are too obvious to be dwelt upon at length. A worsted spinning mill, equipped to .make a particular number of yarn, will produce that yarn with a greater economy than an American mill, equally iperfect in machinery, which is compelled to constantly adjust that machinery to the production of yarns of -different numbers. Elsewhere in this report allusion is made to the entirely different system of manufacturing Tvhich prevails in England, and to the advantages which spring from it. V. The United States is the only one of the large wool manufacturing nations which does not have free access to the wool markets of the world. It has developed its wool manufacture along lines very largely determined by this unique position among its competitors, and comparison with other countries is made more difficult on this account. To offset the fact stated, it is true that the United States is the only large wool manufacturing nation Which supplies within itself the larger proportion of the raw material consumed in its mills. Of the wool consnm'ed by Great Britain in 1.S90, 120,000,000 pounds was home grown and 350,000,000 pounds foreign grown. Prance consumed in the same year 124,000,000 pounds of domestic wool and 295,000,000 pounds of imported wool. The a Bulletin National Association of Wool Manufacturers, xi: 59. TEXTILES— WOOL. 69 United States reversed these proportions, consuming 258,681,000 pounds of domestic and 114,116,000 pounds of imported wool, three-quarters at least of the latter being third-class wool consumed in the carpet manufacture. The consequence of this dependence upon a domestic supply has been to very largely persuade the home manufacturer into the production of those classes of goods to which the wools of the United States are best adapted, and for which it is conceded that they have no superiors. Since the policy of a tariff on wool for the purpose of fostering domestic production was first adopted by the United States the conditious surrounding the wool supply of the world have radically changed. At that time each manufacturing nation relied chiefly upon its home supply of the raw material — England, in particular, depending almost wholly upon her domestic clip, Avhich had been recognized for centuries as one of the chief sources of the national wealth. In 1830 the exported wool clip of the Argentine Eepublic was barely 60,000,000 pounds; in 1890 it was 258,000,000 pounds, and in previous years it had surpassed 350,000,000 pounds. In 1842 the Australian export of wool was 14,000,000 pounds, that beiug the first year in which its statistics were recorded; in 1890 the Australian wool clip was 550,000,000 pounds. The Cape of Good Hope clip has increased from 26,000,000 pounds in 1860 to 128,681,000 pounds in 1890. These three countries, which were hardly a factor in the world's wool supply in 1830, are now the sources from which is drawn nearly' two-thirds of the clothing and combing wools. The economic influences of these changes in the sources of the fine wool supply can hardly be traced or estimated, although they are visible everywhere. The Uuited States has been exempt from them, to a very large degree, so far as the manufacture is concerned, not more than 36,000,000 pounds of these wools having reached this country in any one year. But the effect of this constantly increasing new supply of raw material, a supply which at times has seemed to increase faster than the demand, has been very perceptible in the domestic wool markets, where the prices of domestic fleece have sympathized closely with tlie fluctuations in prices abroad. The average annual price of the average Port Philip fleece has fallen in the London market from 25 pence in 1873 to 16 pence in 1890, and of Buenos Ayres average greasy from 7 to 5 pence between the same years, while the decline in Ohio medium fleece was from 68 cents in 1873 to 37 cents in 1890. In view of the steady forcing down of the price of domestic wool, notwithstanding the tariff, by t]ie pressure of increased production, on a large scale, in these countries of the southern hemisphere, where tlie conditions attending sheep raising are in some respects superior to those of our own country, it may be taken for granted that there will never be any considerable exportation of domestic wool. On the other hand, it is not to be expected that there will ever be any considerable domestic supply of the coarse long wools chiefly relied upon by our great carpet industry. The sheep producing these wools are comparatively worthless for mutton, their fleece is light in weight, and because of its coarseness brings a comparatively low price in the market. The culture of such sheep is not likely to be pursued as a final object where any purpose is entei'tained of improved sheep husbandry, and in those sections of the United States where the native sheep of Mexican origin have predominated the breeding up has been rapid. We have produced admirable carpet wools in Colorado and the territories, equal in whiteness, strength, and length of staple to the best imported from South America. But the supiily of domestic carpet wools now reaching the markets is merely nominal, and it is a fact well recognized by intelligent growers that carpet wools can not be grown with ]Wofit in this country, and therefore that practically they can not be grown at all. Jn the production of the finer wools the domestic supi^ly, instead of increasing in consonance with the increased requirements of the American manufacturers, is growing less from year to year. In Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, and other states which, are peculiarly adapted to the growth of fine wools, and from which the domestic supply has. come, the number of sheep has been steadily declining for many years. While improvements in machinery have permitted a larger and larger use of the increasing supplies of territorial wools for purposes akin to those of the fine wools, yet there exists a deficiency, which is made up by increasing importations of Australasian wools. It is frequently asserted that the United States possesses every variety of soil and climate and all the food, conditions necessary to produce every grade of wool in quantities equal to the utmost domestic demand. Regarding this proposition, it is enough to say that if the conditions exist the supply does not, and that the deficiency must therefore be made up from foreign sources. The increase in our importations of Australian wools has been the most marked characteristic of the industry during the decade ending with 1890. The records of the Treasury Department do not contain the complete details of Australian wool imported in 1879 and 1880. The direct importations were 399,518 pounds in 1879 and 7,066,604 pounds in 1880, additional supplies coming in both years from the London auction sales. In 1890 the importations direct and via London reached a total of 11,950,158 pounds, and in several prior years were even more, reaching 16,577,974 xjounds in 1886. While these importations ar(^ insignificant in amount when compared Avith the domestic wool clip, they are very large in comparison with the domestic clip of strictly fine wool of a like grade. In making their purchases of Australian wool the American manufacturers and dealers are confined to the wools of lightest shrinkage, upon which the duty operates the least severely, and as the supply of light-shrinkage wools is limited, the American competition influence-, to increase their price over that of other wools of like quality but heavy shrinkage, thus further limiting their purchases as compared with ^hat Ihey would be under an ad valorem form of duty. 70 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. VI. Another disadvantage under which the domestic wool manufacture labors, is the fact that it is, and always has been, subject to conditions by which styles and fashions are determined abroad. London sets the fashions in men's wear goods, and Paris in women's wear goods. The American manufacturer, except the maker of plain and staple fabrics, is compelled to follow tlie styles determined in these cities, if he expects to command the home trade. This is always a difBcult and sometimes an Impossible thing to do, under the existing system which compels the manufacture of goods fully a year in advance of the season for whose wear tliey are intended. The difiSculty is greatly increased by the survival of the prejudice born in the primitive days of the manufacture, in favor of foreign as against home-made woolens. This prejudice is disappearing, but it is still a positive factor which must be recognized. Mr. H. N. Slater, of Webster, Massachusetts, in a letter written in 1888, stated the degree of this prejudice and the common method of meeting it, as follows: Our family lias beeji engaged iu tin; broailclcitli manufacture in this town since 1818, during which time more or less fine Saxony wool has been required and imported for us. * " These superfine cloths have never been sold directly to the merchant tailor as American, and could not now be if manufactured. The impression is general among the trade that they cannot be made in this country, the average consumer wanting something "foreign". During many years (forty j'ears ago) our goods were made, tilloted, and sold (but not as a rule directly) as foreign goods. ISfo merchant tailor thinks of offering a fashionable gentleman a fine American cloth. The habit of affixing foreign labels to home-made goods is still a common one, and is a device warranted by a ]}rejudice which is no longer justifiable on any ground, and is in strange contrast with the intense Americanism of our peoj)le in other resi)ects. In the facts last stated may be found one of the chief reasons why the quantities and values of woolen goods imported into the United States have exceeded those in any other manufactuiing industry, with the single exception of iron and steel, almost from the beginning of the century. In its ratio to the value of the domestic product, the value of woolen goods imported has largely exceeded that of the imports of iron and steel. What this ratio for woolen goods has been at each of the census periods from 1820 is shown in the following table, which also gives the value per capita at each of the census periods, both of the domestic products and the importations, and the percentage of each in the total consumption of the year : COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF DOMESTIC AND IMPORTED WOOL MANUFACTURES, YCITH PER CAPITA VALUE AND PERCENTAGE OF TOTAL CONSUMPTION, (a) DOMESTIC MANUFACTUnES (CENSUS). 1820 1830 1810 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 \'alue. $4, 413, 068 14, 528, 166 20, 696, 999 49, 636, 881 80, 734, 606 217, 668, 826 267. 252, 913 337, 768, 524 ValuG per capita. $0.46 1.13 1.21 2.14 2. .57 5.65 5.33 5.39 Per cent of total condnmp. tion. 39.15 63.67 59.74 79.24 72.04 86. 8."'- 87.11 88.63 NET IMPOKTA- ll TIONS(AVli:HAGE FOB 10 YEARS). , ii$6, 8,59, 702 8, 190, 062 13, 950, 772 13, 005, 852 31,333,273 33, 046, 521 39, 537, 694 43, 345, 981 Value per capita. $0.71 0.64 0.82 0.56 1.00 0.86 0. 7B 0.69 Per cent of total consump- tion. 60.85 36.33 40.26 29. 76 27.96 13.18 12.89 11.37 a Cotton hosiery and knit goods, included in the census figures of this table, are not included in the value of imports. b Net imports for year ending- September 30, 1821. The value per capita of the domestic manufactures in 1870 is a currency value, at a time when the gold value of thedoUar averaged 79.81 cents. Allowance being made for that fact, the per capita valuation of the jjroduct has shown a nearly uniform increase in each decade since 1800, and was in 1890 just 2.10 times the value per capita in 1860. In other words, the increase in the industry has been in more than double the ratio of the increase in the population. The decrease in the per capita value of the imports of woolen goods has not been in the sarrie ratio, showing that the consuming capacity of the American people has kept steadily in advance of the increasing productive capacity of the wool manufacturers. The percentage of foreign goods in the total annual consumption of our people is now no larger than it is in Great Britain. In considering the following tables, presenting the data for all branches or subdivisions of the wool industry, reference should be made to the text and tables on the combined textile industries which precede this report. Tables 1 and 2. To enable a convenient comparison of the statistics relating to the wool manufacture at different census periods, Table 1 comprises all the items of the inquiry common to a number of such periods, and the statistics are given for each decennial year from 1840 to 1890, both inclusive; this is followed by a similar statement (Table 2) for the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods. Particular attention is invited to the fact that these comparative tables include the results of widely varying methods of inquiry, so that a careful consideration of the explanatory footnotes is essential in order to avoid erroneous deductions. TEXTILES— WOOL. 71 Table 3 contains tlie totals by states for the principal items of the inquiry for 1890, considering the industry as a whole and including the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods. Table 4 exhibits a total for the United States, under each item of the schedule of inquiry for 1890 (excepting details relating to employes and their wages), for each branch of the industry, viz, woolen mills, worsted mills, carpet mills (other than rag), felt mills, wool hat mills, and hosiery and knitting mills. The general heads under which the itemized statistics will be found are as follows : Capital, miscellaneous expenses, power, machinery, materials, and products. The six tables following Table 4 cor]:espond thereto in form and scope, but contain statistics for each of the diiierent branches of the industry which are segregated in these tables and shown by totals for each state and for the United States. Their titles are as follows : Table 5. Woolen mills. Table 6. Worsted mills Table 7. Carpet mills. Table 8. Felt mills, Table 9. Wool liat mills. Table 10. Hosiery and knitting mills. Table 11 is a presentation of employes and wages for the wool industry considered in its entirety. It shows? by totals for each state and for the United States the average number of men, women, and children distributed into the following classes: (1) Officers or firm members actively engaged in the industry or in supervision; (2) clerks; (3) operatives and skilled labor; (4) unskilled labor; (5) pieceworkers. The average number of weeks employed, the average weekly earnings per employe, and the total wages are shown for men, women, and children in each class, excepting pieceworkers. The statement for pieceworkers gives the total number of men, women, and children, respectively, and the total wages reported for each. Table lii presents the employes and Avages for each of the six branches or subdivisions of the wool industry in the same form as Table 11, showing totals for each state and for the United States. Table 13 shows for the wool manufacture in its entirety the various weekly rates of wages paid, and the average number of men, women, and children employed at each rate, by totals for each state and for the United States. In Table 14 the data contained in Table 13 are segregated and shown for each branch of the industry, by totals for each state and for the United States. Table 15 contains the data relating to custom carding mills, which have been included as woolen mUls in the preceding tables; they are segregated in this table, and a distinct presentation is made by totals for states and for the United States. Table 16 shows details, by totals for states and for the United States, relating to the number of establishments idle during the censns year, their capital and machinery. Table 17 contains a detailed presentation by totals for states and for the United States, showing the results of the inquiry relating to the shoddy manufacture. 72 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table I COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF WOOL MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED (EXCLUDING HOSIERY STATES AND TEEBITORIES. Number of establish- ments. (i) Capital. AVEEAGE NDMBEE OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL iVAGES. MACHINERY. Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Children. Cards. Combing machines. Average number. Total wages. 1 United States : 1840 1,420 1,675 1,476 3,208 2,330 1,693 $15, 765, 124 31, 971, 631 38,814,422 121, 451, 059 143, 612, 278 «245, 886, 743 21, 342 45, 438 50, 419 105, 071 132, 672 157, 933 . 21,342 26, 559 29, 852 63, 400 67, 942 82, 080 9 1850 (d) 18, 879 30. 667 39, 150 49, 107 65, 066 3 1860 (e) $11,699,630 35,928,150 40, 687, 612 68, .397, 470 3, 319 8,705 6,989 7,015 4 1870 12, 521 15, 623 10, 777 261 515. 869 1 [ 1880 fi 1890 New England states : 1840 7 489 482 420 675 564 518 24 36 28 108 96 78 66 61 54 82 61 52 95 72 46 66 44 29 144 119 147 226 214 219 41 45 58 76 01 69 119 149 87 117 88 71 620 717 659 1,024 794 052 9, 259, 935 17, 667, 892 24, 700, 363 63, 856, 145 75, 523, 666 134, 627, 725 11, 268 22, 620 30, 130 54,«51 67, 582 79, 063 11, 268 11, 980 16, 993 26, 462 34, 939 43, 599 S 1850 10, 540 13, 137 32, 605 25, 712 31, 178 1860 7, 032, 555 19, 588, 984 21,390,036 30, 027, 697 1,774 3,471 3,396 3,762 1870 5,784 6,931 4,286 225 30'? 1 ^1 1880 - . ■ ... TO 18S0 519 Maine : 1840 \ 13 316, 105 467, 600 940, 400 4, 187, 745 4, 016, 328 9, 456, 830 740, 345 2, 437, 700 2, 647, 300 5, 626, 100 7, 150, 855 12, 015, 721 1, 406, 950 886, 300 1, 746, 300 2, 330, 900 2,320,161 3, 304, 382 4, 179, 850 9, 089, 342 13, 005, 853 26, 723, 900 36,764,000 66, 568, 586 685, 350 1, 013, 000 3, 169, 000 10,467,500 13, 016, 116 24, 810, 743 1, 931, 335 3, 773, 950 3,191,500 14,521,000 12,255,206 18. 971, 463 5, 519, 175 8, 351, 908 10,472,728 37, 194, 990 53, 834, 368 86, 140, 259 532 624 1,064 3,104 3,244 5,193 893 2,127 2,655 5,081 5,599 6,222 1,450 1, 393 2,073 1,895 2,084 l,-585 5,076 11,130 15, 638 28, 026 34,717 38, 363 961 1,758 4,232 7,894 12, 125 17, 787 2,356 5,488 4,468 8,852 9, 813 9,913 8,464 13, 802 16, 121 36, 322 64, 138 63, 757 4,636 6,674 6,133 12, 487 16, 428 17, 093 427 ,198 l)H(i 1,522 4,072 5,971 532 310 666 1,692 1,810 3,285 893 936 1,391 3,369 3.811 3,276 1,450 683 895 935 1,171 047 5,076 6,167 8,964 13, 228 17, 588 21, 231 961 987 2,594 3, 644 5, 871 8, 946 2,356 3,907 3,684 4,804 5,688 5, 914 8,464 8,549 9,928 18, 182 26, 797 30, 938 14 18M 314 499 1,287 1,140 1,758 15 1860 273, 596 1, 065. 151 1, 090, 628 1, 961, 511 80 335 274 387 16 1870 225 294 150 } 17 1880 18 1890 ~ 19 Xew Hampshire : 1840 !>0 1850 1,201 1.364 2,328 2,284 2,762 ?1 I860 687. 746 1, 788, 894 1,701,619 3, 352, 565 204 360 317 380 99 1«70 494 504 184 52 21 29 ^3 1880 '1 1890 ?,5 Vermont: 1840 9fl 1850 710 1,178 759 783 601 1 9,7 I860 214, 573 649, 628 544, 138 025,440 99 177 145 120 W 1870 301 130 37 ?fl 1880 30 1800 '~ 3] Massachusetts : 1840 1 39, 1850 4,963 6,674 11, 961 14, 060 16,430 33 1860 1 3, 658, 589 9, 809, 718 11, 037, 832 14, 658, 774 873 1,433 1,622 1,785 1 S-l 1870 2,836 3,069 1,713 179 1 35 36 1880 ■. 1 890 , 190 1 37 Rhode Island : 1840 38 1850 771 1,638 3,184 4,387 7,114 39 1860 1, 069, 728 2, 863, 492 3, 703, 257 6, 561, 759 253 484 495 558 40 1870 1,066 1,867 1,727 7 70 193 41 4' 1880 1890 43 Connecticut: 1 840 44 ] 850 2,681 1,784 3,086 3,058 3,523 41 I860 : 1, 128, 324 3,413,101 3, 322, 672 3, 867, 648 265 682 543 532 46 1870 962 1,067 476 34 21 27 '17 1880 48 49 1840 1850 . ... 50 5, 263 6,193 13, 028 20, 144 27, 472 31 1860 1870 1880 " 1890 3, 717, 095 12, 619, 089 16, 682, 073 '33, 929. 332 920 2. 5.5S 2,154 2,203 52 53 54 5,112 7,197 5,347 36 310 301 New York : 1840 1850 55 323 249 168 272 189 138 31 41 .)5 36 37 35 3, 469, 349 4,459.370 4, 133, 568 14,451,232 18, 248, 698 26, 853, 583 314, 650 494, 274 646, 200 1,524,200 1 2, 991, 125 1 0,441,571 i 4,636 4,262 3,475 6,199 7,405 8,167 427 411 608 709 2 287 2,965 511 2,412 2,648 4,583 6,931 8,217 57 1860 1, 351, 955 4, 315, 710 5, 189, 180 6, 696, 593 "1,705' 2,092 1,309 324 940 830 702 1 58 1870 1 51 1880 60 61 1890 1840 ... .... 84 62 1850 226,788' 493, 054 1. 152, 754 2. 073, 771 487 378 552 1.118 2,787 63 1860 2ffl" 067 219 61 98 161 1 202 64 65 1880 . ... 66 1890 ft The comparative statement of hosiery and knit goods manufacture ia given on pages 80 to 85. h The number of e8tal)h'shmeutH attbrds no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of 1^001 manufaoturinj];. This is drie to the fact that in all censuses of the industry {except thnt of I860) the custom carding mill has been counted as a wool factory, although it is not, in the modern use of the term, a factory, and ought not therefore to bo included with the statistics of factory manufacture. The present census has made such an elimination possible hereafter by a distinc*^ statement (Table 15) of the statistics of custom carding mills. TEXTILES— WOOL. 73 STATES, BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1840-1880. AND KNIT GOODS.) (a) MACHINERY— cont'd. Cost of materials used. PEINCIPAL RAW MATEEIAI.S— (jnANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Looms. Spindles. Wool. Hair, noils, etc. (Pounds.) Cotton. (Pounds.) Shoddy. (Pounds.) Total. (Pounds.) Foreign. (Pounds.) Domestic. (Pounds.) $20, 698, 999 48, 608, 779 73, 454, 000 190, 257, 262 238, 085, 686 270, 527, 611 1 $28, 831, 583 43,447,048 124, 318, 792 149, 160, 800 167, 233, 987 70, 882, 829 95,452,159 214, 373, 219 287, 597, 334 351,158,020 16, 075 45, 737 57, 297 69, 658 839, 700 2,046,113 2, 111, 973 2, 793, 147 17,248,061 26, 420, 628 63, 830, 664 94. 372, 267 46,288,805 72, 751, 940 111, 382, 308 168,084,414 214. 846, 394 239, 775, 712 19,384,404 50, 640. 663 56, 826; 475 8,011,037 26, 262, 316 5 6 12, 959, 486 26, 077, 812 47, 722, 814 108, 295, 425 130, 014, 752 139. 302, 134 16, 055, 233 29, 570, 028 68,819,733 80, 152, 160 86, 887, 689 43, 118, 059 67, 702, 407 123, 791, 816. 163,763,773 195, 867, 736 g 8,920 21, 865 30, 692 33, 348 393, 333 1, 208, 717 1,246,100 1, 570, 097 11, 883. 078 11, 479, 564 26, 775, 273 30, 833, 876 '" 'i6,"9i7."494' 28, 653, 694 35, 721, 895 f) 30, 296, 579 43, 475, 654 58,429,807 93, 496, 236 120, 288, 219 137, 437, 929 2, 441, 485 9, 368. 220 11 12- 412, 366 753, 300 1, 759, 007 6. 483, 881 6, 959, 003 8, 737, 653 795, 784 2, 127, 745 4, 358. 713 10, 513, 226 10,858,071 10, 963, 250 1,331.953 1. 579. 181 2. 938, 626 3. 644. 459 3, 217, 807 2, 723, 683 7. 082. 89S 12, 770, 565 24,015.443 52, 270, 608 64, 968, 209 67, 599, 321 842, 172 2, 381. 825 6, 917. 705 15, 394, 067 21.. 588, 204 32, 205, 829 2, 494, 313 6,465,218 7. 733, 320 19, 989, 184 22. 423, 458 17.072,398 6, 637. 708 n 496, 940 1, 035, 876 4, 013, 759 4, 443, 190 6, 675, 347 1. 438, 434 2, 454, 300 7, 721, 228 9. 074, Oil 13, 782, 749 li 185 1,101 1, 103 2,020 11, 765 66, 649 68, 192 126,418 82, 500 789, 363 1, 576, 462 2. 839, 862 ^^ 382, 727 1, 085, 606 1, 744, 381 7. 338, 501 7, 988, 405 12, 038, 368 18 402, 707 1, 346, 818 1, 302, 789 1,515,035 17 18 19 1, 267, 329 2, 775, 026 6, 569. 028 6. 605, 355 7, 024, 461 3,604,103 5,505,106 11, 832, 666 15, 172, 837 18, 696, 016 ■"O 096 1,895 2, 884 4, 049 36, 320 125, 079 138, 223 136, 648 .:::;;:;■";;;:::: 861, 000 1, 670, 994 2, 871, 944 4, 308, 465 1, 968. 869 2, 379, 575 4, 854. 212 9, 863, 797 12,793,262 13, 841, 804 1, 380, 000 3,115,890 3, 424, 970 1 m 50, 362 1^0, 056 23 24 830, 684 1, 662, 650 1, 955, 972 2, 012. 490 1, 435, 163 2, 328, 100 4,047.010 4. 611, 347 3, 603, 191 3, 940, 070 ■'li 463 670 746 682 23, 371 49, 255 46, 264 41, 839 279, 666 77, 800 640, 470 669, 601 1, 120, 680 161, 404 1, 279, 250 3, 490, 667 3, 441, 787 2, 660, 820 225,967 2, 286, 150 1,662,221 *'R 7,598 8,650 2» 30 31 8, 671, 871 15,367,378 33, 795, 994 40,283.171 42, 273, 379 22, 229, 952 39, 731, 072 63,499,752 84, 929, 798 97. 757. 379 3'> 1 4, 237 11,662 15, 863 16, 349 159, 651 587, 611 588, 941 739, 952 5, 871, 370 5, 056, 357 13. 704, 566 15, 160, 584 33 20,189,746 28, Oil, 595 34, 930, 030 43, 310, 006 56.918,203 62, 827, 349 5, 994, 110 13,017,085 21, 608, 371 ^1 1, 751, 208 6 770, 990 35, 36 37 1, 463. 900 4,071,464 9, 826, 158 13. 079, 812 19, 976, 086 4, 103, 370 6, 835, 100 14,421,967 27, 141, 974 39, 973, 992 38' 1,586 3,383 6.057 6, 608 88, 048 215, 973 228, 262 340, 328 3. 056, 200 1. 697, 139 4, 783, 289 4,095,989 39 772, 247 4, 469, 088 8, 929, 242 13, 649, 720 22, 672, 888 31, 044, 750 9i9. Oo6 : 2, 027, 782 2, 168, 503 i iO 166, 893 317,184 41 42- 4S 3, 325. 709 4, 657, 634 12. 658. 822 13, 728, 142 10, 503, 253 9 414, 100 9, 129, 819 21, 704, 855 23,841,962 21, 717. 530 : 1,7.53 3, 204 3,139 3,840 76, 178 182, 150 176, 218 184, 914 1, 732, 608 2, 207. 911 3, 198, 542 3, 969, 375 45 6,861,310 7, 368, 286 6, 692, 692 15, 843, 545 16.473,678 15, 024, 838 62,' 717 772, 522 2,398,417 6. 903 998 5, 442, 795 46 47 48. 40 1 8, 040, 747 10, 938. 446 41,941,018 57, 908, 066 68. 103, 765 22, 437, 754 18, 910. 319 61, 186, 252 95, 389, 023 118, 634, 796 14. 065. 456 60 6, 432 18, 291 22, 206 29. 002 210, 054 554, 247 638. 484 914, 990 4. 943. 183 13. 321.. 570 33, 867, 475 54, 972, 659 8." 457,' 123" 20, 951, 183 18, 913, 964 20, 386, 330 51 15, 834, 201 28, 976. 386 50, 706, 698 45, 332, 061 66,412,637 67, 928, 098 6, 463, 652 18, 823, 593 91,130,451 110,911,526 53. 54 5"^ i 3, 537 337 3, 838, 292 4,311,116 11. 676, 379 14. 478, 735 16, 7,59, 138 12. 538, 786 8, 535, 498 25, 518. 652 29, 987, 847 35, 305, 969 j 1 7, 030, 604 56. 1,686 3.800 3. 870 5, 025 87, 887 166. 260 198,420 344,847 193, 683 1, 186, 659 4. 4:i4. 013 7, 781, 739 452. ''90 2,166,471 1,817,481 7, 498, 077 57 19. 609, 021 53 25. 078, 747 59 28. 56:!, 569 ' 60- 9. 305, 779 13, 495, 159 21, 345, 999 18,212.873 16, 492, 688 13, 959, 970 i, 394, 947 2, 074, 831 548, 367 59li, 895 1,618.753 3, 858, 992 51 450, 490 1,510,289 1, 443, 800 2, 856, 525 6, 990, 378 12, 524, 210 1 1 1. 164, 448 1. 197, 694 2, 616, 481 5, 907, 893 8, 893, 237 (p 270 776 1,285 1.533 10, 361 26. 769 :I5. 791 77, 089 239, 500 407, 398 1. 559, 502 2, 626, 882 63 64 65 86 480. 347 655, 001 1. 348, 047 2, 376, 178 8. 335, 377 11, 176, 163 27. 000 2, 876, 856 2, 927, 640 1, 107. 749 490, 110 c Value of hired property is not included in the capital reported in 1890, hecause it was not included in the reports of previous census years. d The details of the carpet industry were not given hy states in 1850. The totals, however, have heen added to the " Total for the United States" in this table, the Hgures being as follows: establishments, 116; capital, $3,852,981; number of employSs, 8, 188; "cost of materials used, $3,076,592, and value of products, $6,401,234'. Ther « Eardine mills were not included in the report of the woolen industry of 1860, and are therefore not included in the figures for that vear in the above table, ire were"712 of these establishments, with a total capital of $1,080,985, employing 1,276 hands, at a cost of $286,287. They received 5,230,651 pounds of wool and. produced 5,091,196 pounds of wool rolls, valued at $2,403,513. 74 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table S,— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF WOOL MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED STATES, (EXCLUDING HOSIEEy 1 STATES AND TERRITOEIKS. Number of Bstablisli^ ments. Capital. $1, 510, 546 3, 005, 064 5, 211, 610 20, 615, 413 31, 898, 226 52, 021, 256 i 107. 000 148, 500 117, 000 384, 500 352, 569 460. 974 117, 030 244, 000 364, 460 215, 245 343, 700 372, 875 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. .MACH XERY. 1 Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Children. Cards. Average number. Total, ■wages. Combing machines. 1 1 Pennsylvania; 235 380 407 672 548' 467 2 8 4 11 5 3 29 88 35 32 15 9 2,930 6, 726 8,484 21, 573 32, 989 39, 413 83 140 114 399 261 297 388 362 414 339 388 383 2,930 3,490 5,488 10, 831 16. 688 19,463 83 122 76 186 171 146 388 262 ■281 255 240 197 a 1850 2, 236 2.996 7,714 11,936 16, 238 ■i $2, 016, 384 7, 607, 489 10, 162, 244 15,031,032 483 1,429 1,120 1,254 4 1870 _ 3,028 4,365 3,712 29 5 1880 121 (i 1890 188 ,7 Delaware : 1840 . - 8 1850 18 38 110 59 U2 y 27, 564 115, 137 108, 504 103, 396 ios 31 39 SO «13 15 ' 10 1870 li .12 1890 .13 Maryland : {a) 1840 14 ioo 138 69 100 118 1ft 94, 404 87, 099 69, 391 123,931 ii' 42 68 \ 44 01 30 30 If) 1870 17 18 IS District of CGolumbia: (a) 1840 '2i) 1 ■ 700 2 2 1 21 j T?. 1 4,400 2 600 •2 1 :2:! 1 24 1 ?ft ■ J840 11.1 155 115 689 447 222 41 121 45 ■68 48 35 3 1 7 52 49 27 3 304, 650 747, 360 1, 744, 100 3, 327, 952 2, 994, 617 7, 894, 776 488 1,119 2,206 2,888 2, 646 5,717 488 808 1.429 1,831 1,498 2,620 i 2(i 311 776 669 745 2,429 ;:: :: i 27 418, 368 575, 629 493, 634 1,564,846 23;'. 908 385 ■?,s 388 402 068 ! .?,» 30 ]i890 {b) 4 Virginia . -SI 112, 360 392, 640 463, 600 436, 375 456, 750 815, 221 9.800 18, 000 223, 000 237, 800 203, 100 339, 088 4,300 222 668 494 278 365 444 4 30 253 249 185 324 6 222 478 881 190 261 293 4 15 118 151 120 170 1 a:^ 1850. - 190 113 66 95 120 ; '. 1 .3« 106, 692 58, 765 71,720 117, 023 50 116 ^4 ■ 34 ■1S70 -. .. ■ 32 19 31 35 i ! 3(1 ■ 37 .38 39 ^N'ortli Carolina: 15 140 81 60 126 : 1 1800' 60, 030 39, 101 23, 195 65, 329 23 78 57 35 ■40 41 ■42 17 16 29 1880 ■43 ■44 45 46 -47 48 ■49 .50 51 .52 ■j84() . 1830 ■ 1 15 11 60, 000 25, 900 7,900 92 53 13 11,400 3,815 1,173 37 32 13 55 13 10 26 11 1870 8 Georgia : 1 3 11 46 32 14 2, 000 68, 000 242, 600 936, 686 180, 733 298, 539 10 1 78 383 563 142 179 10 40 167 251 72 81 38 216 191 45 71 63, 348 122,138 25, 070 32, 401 30 72 42 20 121 25 27 '54 1^90 .'55 S(i .57 58 .59 ■60 '^1 .'62 6:i 64 '■65 ■06 67 ■68 20 374 166 158 1,000 31, 462 11, 025 10, 828 : 3 2, 273. 428 1, 407. 510 1, 880, 232 23,148 18,597 10,610 1,225 865 46, 000 ■ 4 c, 300 6 7 16. 000 66. 745 849, 313 681,711 311, 881 80, 000 191,400 1, 979, 671 1,811,635 1, 052, 229 29 183 896 10, 371 12, 622 12.984 q 1, 979, 671 1, 811, 635 1, 048, 229 26, 500. 115,227, 156; 395- 4,066' 7,000 103 930, 961 11 261 4,000 548 457 I 12 1 M 1 1 29 1,616 2.636 86, 105 107, 251 200, 000 364, 000 200, 000 364, 000 l; 300- 23, 20O 163.150 211, 526 Ifi 41 2. OUO 17 18 j T<> •'n ''^ 39 59 125 3,004 3,852 7,510 108, 540 155, 867 309, 378 254, 867 557, 680 1. 368. 290 254, 867 637, 680 1, 358, 290 219, 862 263, 378 539, 995 •'^. 20, 000 6,366 18,000 4,000 9^ ■>( ! '>f> *>? 31 114 99 1, 430 5,422 7,960 98, 272 147, 226 163, 864 276, 000 566, 900 800, 600 i 276, 000 566, 900 800, 500 8^320 31; 697 38, 632 199, 60O 279, 424 338, 534 ■'8 • ■' 1,666 I 29 1 ?•> "'" i ■ft ! 5 240 12, 776 50. 000 60.000 4,000 21,000 'U 95 ;!3 1,628 45,419 217, 100 217, 100 j 1 o^n 101, 931 1 1 38 45 275 298 387 780 8,200 23, 3S8 24, 650 77. 000 836. 736 1. 277. 025 1,116,418 550, 000 2.871,400 i. 720, 100 5, 065, 619 235, 000 1 fiOR 61 1 40 2,871,400 4, 700, 100 4, 920, 619 23,6()6' 100, 000 23J, 026 213, 864 1,800 96. 150 58. Ill 20, 000 145, 000 2, 253. 8S8 1, 939, 965 42 43 44- 45 ■ 30 600 3, 880 18, 740 18, 598 50, 000 608, 141 997, 539 788, 916 400, 000 1.928 000 3,574,850 3, 699, 471 150,000 1, 102, 7.54 1. 634, 858 1. 326, 033 185 230 392 1, 928, 000 3,554,850 3, 554, 471 ioO, OOO 228, 026 107, 318 1.800 94, 150 53,111 4T 48: 49- 20, 000 145, 000 25.000 16 280 4,320 4,248 6,052 27, 000 227. 695 227. 486 327, 502 150, 000 943, 400 985, 250 1, 366, 148 90 943, 400 985. 250 1, 366, 148 606' 857 ^■^ i 56 6,000 im, 546 1,000 6,000 649, 030 ■ 54 95 1- i 66^ 57 58 69 60. 6L 1 ' 400 52, 000 160, 000 160; 000' 70, 000 ■ 80 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 2 COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS MANUFACTURE FOR THE STATES AND TEEKITORIES Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. MACHINERY. -Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Fe- males above 15 years. Chil- dren. Cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Knit- tingma chines. Sewing ma- chines. Looms. Spindles. Aver- age num- ber. Total wages. 1 "CTnited States : 1840 (a) 1! 1860 (ii) 85 197 248 369 796 $544. 735 4, 035, 510 10,931,260 15, 579, 591 co0,«07,738 2,325 9,103 14, 788 28,885 61,209 $360, 336 1, 661, 972 4, 429, 086 6, 701, 476 18, 263, 272 835 2,780 4,252 7,617 16, 366 1,490 6,323 7,991 17, 707 40, 927 3 1860 4 1870 2,545 3,661 3,916 519 592 1,183 3 16 5,625 12, 659 36, 327 1,668 4,669 .438 1,964 149 148, 385 143, 023 389, 353 5 1880 fl. 1890 New England states : 1840 7 8 1850 9 1860 47 84 103 168 1,534,700 4, 021, 660 5, 156, 306 14, 538, 511 2,165 5,280 7,818 13, 503 487. 440 1, 808, 335 1, 918, 715 4, 344, 884 815 1,678 2.130 3,^28 1,350 3,059 4,969 9,208 in 1870 543 719 467 236 207 329 9 2,466 2,626 8.638 760 816 214 1,085 5 82, 656 46, 047 147, 825 11 1880 n 1890 Maine: 1840 13 1 14 1850 1 [ IS i860 Ifi 1870 17 1880 1 4 500 28, 095 21 260 801 30, 165 1 6 20 254 18 1890 91 T) New Hampshire : 1840 ?,n 1850 ?i 1860 12 28 24 37 133, 000 855, 460 1, 224, 000 2, 706, 065 488 1,081 1, 753 3,178 76, 188 405, 003 .536, 117 989, 130 138 344 540 1,002 350 624 1,098 2,040 99 1870 113 115 76 58 68 112 832 992 3,032 102 118 20 147 17, 175 17, 540 36, 526 ■?3 1880 ?4 1890 ?,5 Vermont: 1810 ■?,« 1850 "::: ■',7 1860 2 7 6 10 21, 500 303, 000 492, 000 754, 882 93 331 383 718 15,792 90,179 101, 037 269, 844 30 89 138 275 63 216 227 438 ''a 1870 26 18 5 23 22 37 49 69 221 53 94 26, 3i;0 3,805 9,584 1^") 1880 sn 1890 31 Massachusetts : 1840 3? 1850 33 I860 15 32 57 74 155, 200 1, 570, 500 1, 467, 375 4, 497. 940 388 2,415 3,411 4,675 94, 692 848, 864 608. 067 1, 496, 260 166 844 780 1,127 222 1,404 2,413 3.418 34 1870 167 212 130 79 38 52 1,116 813 3,344 312 257 180 545 5 19,331 9, 028 40, 822 3'i 1880 3n 1890 37 Ehode Island : 1840 38 1850 31 1860 40 1870 3 1 10 133, 000 6,000 1, 728, 618 120 39 1,538 33, 200 8,400 487, 350 37 6 365 64 24 1,024 19 9 149 6 33 32 735 7' 6 4 1, 8UU 41 1880 49. 1890 14 2 15 8^5 43 Connecticut! 1840 44 1850 ... , 4'i 18 14 14 27 1, 226, 000 1, 159, 700 1,966,431 4, 822, 911 1,196 1,333 2,211 3,134 300, 768 431, 089 664, 293 1, 073, 135 481 304 6.59 993 715 751 1,187 2,034 'tfi 1870 2i8 366 107 70 79 114 7 436 720 1,195 293 340 9 389 47 1880 15 674 48 1890 -O Middle states : 1840 =in 1850 51 1860 134 141 190 460 2,476,210 0, 873, 300 9, 883, 486 30, 231, 762 6,888 9,365 18, 201 37, 823 1, 160, 624 2, 596, 360 4,451,850 11,574,128 1,928 2,524 5,046 10. 908 4,960 4,843 10, 645 24, 138 R? 1870 1,998 2, 610 2,777 282 378 779 3" 7 3, 091 8, 423 20.838 906 3,681 213 833 121 65, 717 95, 316 213, 023 S3 1880 S4 1890 'Sew York : 1840 SS Sfi 1850 S7 1860 22 60 75 201 1, 102, 500 3, 318, 700 5, 334, 876 19, 608, 331 2,701 3,741 7,858 20, 299 392, 924 1, 122, 890 2, 036, 076 6, 437, 308 597 1,061 2,389 6,862 2,104 1,899 4,470 12,612 SR 1870 - 781 999 825 230 320 701 4 746 ],31l 5,434 620 1,953 20 103 78 49, 441 71, 008 186, 057 59 1881) fiO 1890 (i1 New Jersey : 1840 fi'' 1850 1 ' 1 fiS 1860 7 4 8 15 477, 200 675, 500 804, 670 1, 352, 143 1,491 722 1,070 1,277 226. 000 193, 200 239, 701 342, 600 329 136 320 399 1,162 271 004 701 1 1 (14 1870 315 146 117 13 23 33 U 343 1 094 138 75 147 6,480 0. 048 9,548 fiS 1880 fifi 1890 (17 Pennsylvania : 1840 fiB 1850 ! ■■■■| fin 1800 1870 1880 103 76 106 236 895, 460 2, 979, 000 3, 743, 790 9,121,632 2. 692 4,899 9,272 15, 941 541, 116 1, 280, 270 2, 175, 913 4, 732, 754 9S8 1,325 2, 337 3,008 1, 694 2,672 6,570 10, 503 70 71 902 l.'lliS 1,770 "9 1 2,332 35 3 0,769 4.-i : 3 14.492 148 , 1,653 46 730 43 9,796 18, 260 17, 418 72 1890 - a Xot separately reported. b At the census of 1850 tot:i]a for the diflereufc states were not published, totals for the United States uuly being given. TEXTILES— WOOL; UNITED STATES, BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1840-1890. 81 Cost of materials used. . — ■■--■-- ■ ' — PRINCIPAL RAW MATERIALS— QUAMTITIES CONSnjlED. Value of products. Woof. Merino yarn. (Pounds.) Woolen yarn. (Pounds.) Worsted yarn. (Pounds.) Cotton, cotton "warij, and yam. (Pounds.) Hair, noils, etc. (Pounds.) Shoddy. (Pounds.) Total. (Pounds.^ Foreign. (Potinas.) Domestic. (Pounds.) 1 $415,113 3, 202, 317 9, 835, 823 15, 210, 951 35, 861, 585 $1, 028, 102 7, 280, 606 18, 411, 564 29, 167, 227 67. 241, 013 ? 2, 927, 626 5, 596, 955 8, 594, 895 21, 639, 393 3. 892, 342 13, 652, 225 28,485,238 64, 681, 466 a 292, 300 448, 758 2, 734, 304 5, 304, 655 8, 146, 137 18, 905, 089 2,229,777 3, 753, 566 6, 386, 370 189, 857 1, 523, 263 4. 735. 144 4 67, 561 75^1, 255 4, 146, 035 60. 929 424, 496 6 6 7 8 1, 092, 358 3, 282, 123 4, 034, 873 8,661,685 1,457,260 2, 483, 733 4, 348, 024 8, 398, 436 1,693,001 4, 033, 943 3, 977, 864 12, 214, 509 2, 374, 242 6, 910, 797 - 7,912,916 16,034,801 , 1850 3 1860 2 1 1 8 $1, 060 100 250 149, 656 4 3 1 306 $1, 524 4 2 39' 4 1870 1 1 202 2 ii 1880 100 61, 466 fi 1890 65 218 7 ■Western states : , 1840 ■■'- ] R 1850 9 I860 13 23 65 146 21, 900 36, 300 534, 799 5, 190, 366 46 143 2,862 8,369 12, 228 24, 390 330, 210 2, 031, 200 33 50 339 1,389 13 89 , 2, 093 6,687 in j^870 - - • - 4 430 293 1 7 60 68 1,609 6,056 2 72 11 42 5 12 1,660 22,152 i*) 1890 ' - - - ■ ' • Ohio; 1840 19 H 1850 1 Ti 1860 11 5 23 44 10, 900 9,400 187, 000 1 . 071 . 007 36 22 745 1,898 9,264 5.260 94, 858 466, 630 23 16 63 168 13 6 574 1,655 1ti 1870 7 368 1,574 4 10 30 5 17 1880 118 75 60 2,456 Ifl 1890 8 19 Indiana: 1840 i 'n 1860 ■'1 1860 , 2-^ 1870 1 5 1 4,050 1880 ' 5i 45.000 26 284 962 640 24,700 207, 519 7 26 307 is 201 594 1 57 61 9 183 070 1 5 •>?, V4 18.0 9 i 716.988 18 7,392 ■") Illinois: 1840 'fi 1850 ! ( 97 ■"R 1870 3 14 35 1,800 103, 800 1,254,576 27 707 1,878 1.800 92, 385 545, 109 4 160 349 21 471 1,483 2 76 46 1 3 14 19 433 1,525 1 48 ....... 12 680 5,824 i 91) 1880 an 1890 11 Michigan : 1840 3? 1850 ss 1860 14 1870 ._ l^i 1880 . . . 11 10 147, 389 560. 917 962 848 92, 324 208, 344 80 163 roe 684 176 ; 1 ■ 1 4 ;::::;:: 14 521 678 8 920 3,680 Ifi 1890 17 "Wisconsin : 1840 IS 1850 ::::;;;;:::;:::: 39 1860 4g 41 1870 1 1880 4 28 10,010 A 28 1.214,727 1 2,296 3,304 449 7*34 6 335 20 1,856 2 i 19 1,138 4 4' 1890 105 1 6 2,800 i 41 Iow:i : 1840 i 1 44 1850 4t 1860 1 1 41! 1870 2 3 3 5,200 i; 6 2,200 1 6 8,950 9 j 1,200 460 2,550 3 3 3 3 3 6 17 1880 7 14 4R 1800 '. 49 Missouri: 1840 50 1850 j • fil 1860 2 1 11.000 1 10 61 118 125 2,964 15, 600 19,300 34, 477 10 19 3 •i' 1870 7 i 7 15, 700 29, 400 33, 247 41 114 118 1 1 33 68 145 fil 1880 "14 1890 fi'; Minnesota : 1840 R« 1850 ^ 57 18C0 ,.... 5S 1870 1 1 3 150 8,000 247, 498 1 12 129 1 8 27 I 1 50 1880 2,8i9 46. 366 i 103 10 152 2 fid 1890 t fil Utali : 1840 fi', 1850 fi3 1860 fi4 3870 fiS 1880 «fi 1890 5 33. 370 70 154 17,020 53, 471 5 25 60 120 6 73 87 67 All other western states ; (6) 1890 : 7 i 49,085 . a Maryland ia classed in this table as a middle state for purposes of comparison. TEXTILES— WOOL. 83 UNITED STATES, BY GEOGEAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1840-1890— Continued. 1 Cost of materials used. PBINOIPAI, BAW MATERIALS— qnABTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Wool. Worsted Pti°J^'''°B!"' Hair, noils, etc. (Pounds.) Shoddy. (Pounds.) Total. (Pounds.) Foreign. (Pounds.) Domestic. (Pounds.) (Pounas.) (Pounds.) yam. (Pounas.) yarn. (Pounds.) V ')■ $2, 998 780 600 87, 315 $6,123 1,000 720 180,823 500 500 64, 750 500 4: 14, 000 115, 700 A 7- «• 21, 715 47, 727 919, 639 3,68(1,462 6,500 600 240, 000 3, 100, 876 4,000 16, 300 201, 500 2, 658, 199 46.680 95,387 1, 555, 123 7, 240, 031 ni 600 240, 000 2, 483, 118 43, 175 749, 786 2, 328, 534 1ft' 29, 660 383, 626 10,000 338, 642 n 617, 758 54. 922 I' n 11' 13, 515 10, 360 241, 583 914, 085 6,500 4,000 31,800 23,100 418, 825 1,635,848. I") 10, 600 241, 860 851, 313 IK 3,850 145,857 6,000 296, 392 17 859, 000 4,000 355,000 5, 000, IS Th " "■ ?0' ■'1 2,842 103. 280 408, 195 2,575 76, 300 74, 098 1 5,460 158, 200 827, 104 If 5,200 3,342 30, OOO 292 826 *'T 1, 095, 253 568,758 !>26, 495 OS; 7^9 143,572. 94 '»< ::::::::;::::: 9fi , 1 ^ j 5,775 290, 895 980, 780 600 60, 000 818, 500 600 60, OOO 818,500 5,100 226, 800 251, 020 100 112, 9U0 1, 348, 620 8, 800 484, lai 1, .990,035 9ff'( 10, 000 72, 480 9% 17, 500 27,920. i ?1 1 ?? 1 ^4 i 226, 627 285, 057 180, 000 247, 081 180, 000 222, 081 164, 600 121, 667 5,000 19, 400 41, 300 332, 955 10,000. 30, 937 377,249 701, 322 '1*1 25, 666 17 T S") ■ •10 9,i25 899, 371 7,100 886, 788 700 84,047 18, 817 1,635,641; 41 581, 042 20. 000 561, 042 267, 906 11,660 i 1311213 42: 43.' 1 45 i.sio 1, 5.54 1,97b 300 1,636 1,275 600 1 1 2,887 2,908 5,763 46 47 3,000 [ 49> i 8,200 27, 040 41, 575 30, 524 1 14, 880 54, 650 85, 000 81, 445 51 24, 400 36, 600 30, 325 15, 600 11, 300 37, 500 4,500 1 5*. 64, 55 ;:;:;:;;;:: ■ 200 5,000 ■ 200 6,000 64,000 500 10,000 183, 743 ■ 58 .59 400 41,000 42,000 61 63 64 25, 475 47, 338 31, 376 16, 675 2,500 16, 000 600 36, 500 53, 560 125,470 6B 67 b Includes states having less than 3 establishments in this branch of industry, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosecL These establishments are distributed as follows: California,2; Colorado,2; Kansas.l; Nebraska, 1 ; Wasliington, 1. 84 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 3.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. Num. ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. AVEKAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL "VVAQES. MACHIKEET. Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Fe- males above 15 years. Chil- dren. Cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Knit- ting ma- chines. Looms. Spin- dles. Aver- age num- - her. Total ■wages. ■1 Sonthem states (o) 1860 . . 1880.. 1890.. Alabama 1890.. Georgia 1890. . Kentucky :..1880.. Louisiana 1800 . . Korth Carolina 1890.. West Virginia 1880.. All other southern states (6) 1890.. 3 1 22 $2,700 5,000 647, 099 4 4 1,514 $1, 680 700 313, 060 4 2 241 ? '"'894' 2 379 1 795 4 18 ' '6,'353' 3 15 '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 4 3 4 3 3 5 1 7 94, 373 121, 494 2,700 106, 600 72, 900 5,000 251, 732 412 349 4 284 184 4 285 64, 838 71, 952 1,680 51,841 30,410 700 94, 019 25 54 4 26 24 2 112 137 221 250 74 2 2 128 225 ■ 5 960 7 258 105 '""i73' 169 136 1 137 i' 18 i,866 512 "s.'osi" K 55 2 » '10 11 a With the exception of Kentucky, the states in this group did not manufacture hosiery and knit goods until 1880. TEXTILES— WOOL. STATES, BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES : 1840-1890— Continued. 85. Coat of materials nsed. PEINCIPAL HAW MATEEIALS— QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Wool. Merino yam. (Pounds.) "Woolen yam. (Ponnds.) Worsted yam. (Pounds.) Cotton, cotton warp, and yam. (Pounds.) Hair, noile, etc. (Pounds.) Shoddy. (Pounds.) Total. (Ponnds.) Foreign. (Pounds.) Domestic. (Pounds.) $5,900 1,700 459, 808 1,000 $11, 700 2,600 973, 136 1 1,466 200 ?. 56, 500 56, 500 2,380,475 140, 000 3 . 103, 893 70, 697 5,000 58, 202 66,925 1,700 160, 091 545,400 486,340 190,725 166,850 11,700 151,180 126,875 2,600 337,606 4 5 1,000 6 420, 000 277,000 7 8 1,400 200 9 56, 500 66, 500 651,735 140, 000 10 6 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows ; Florida, li Kentucky, 2; Virginia, 2; West Virginia, 2. 86 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table S.— STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTUEE, STATES AND TEREITOKIES. NiTmber of establiah- meiits. The United States. Alabama Arkansas California. . . Connecticixt. Delaware Georgia . Illinois . Indiana . Iowa. '11 ! Kentucky . 12 13 14 15 •16 117 18 19 ■20 21 ■w. 23 -24 ■25 ■26 37 28 29 30 ;81 34 ^5 Lonisiana Maine Maryland Massacbusetts . Micbigan Miuueaota Mississippi Missouri New Hampshire . New Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania... Rhode Island . Tennessee Texas trtah Vermont Virginia ■West Virginia Wisconsin All other states (&). 18 58 56 17 44 4 82 17 293 43 34 7 42 339 32 113 6 703 85 49 4 14 Value of hired property. $17, 320, 780 400 104, 870 600, 334 337, 000 67, 725 18, 000 120, 700 12, 900 89, 400 8,600 I, 415, 001 142, 400 56, 300 46, 050 224, 900 321,983 !, 223, 622 6,200 192, 810 2, 552, 476 2,700 28, 250 173, 500 38, 625 3,800 164, 825 11, 650 Direct investment. Aggregate. $296, 494, 481 112, 698 27,435 2,661,480 23, 794, 374 460, 974 420, 033 2, 904, 494 3, 686, 345 703, 550 2, 766, 683 110, 000 9, 484, 925 522, 531 71, 066, 526 1, .659, 004 811, 269 I 1,553,455 763, 863 14, 721, 786 7, 793, 714 46,461,914 411, 988 3, 550, 879 1, 350, 585 61, 142, 888 26, 039, 361 1, 393, 679 371, 270 612, 579 4, 059, 264 941, 071 343, 881 3, 711, 104 198, 879 Land, build, ings, and machinery. $129, 721, 671 76, 473 21, 800 1, 540. 603 9, 386, 218 267, 000 306, 940 1, 103, 072 1, 703, 246 301, 800 1, 336, 627 77, 100 3, 966, 686 285, 099 28, 378, 202 677, 397 437, 611 876, 030 484, 935 5, 304, ,606 3, 923, 611 22, 560, 865 L27, 330 1, 609, 893 342, 820 28, 086, 739 11, 660, 236 672, 013 2p6, 130 297. 046 1, 472, 666 494, 087 171, 970 1, 332, 273 104, 758 Live assets. $166, 772, 910 36, 225 5,635 1, 120, 877 14, 408, 156 193, 974 114. 093 1,801,422 1, 983, 099 401, 750 1, 431, 156 32, 900 5. 628, 239 237, 432 42, 688, 324 881, 607 373, 668 677, 425 268, 928 9, 417, 280 3, 870, 203 23, 901, 059 184, 668 1, 940, 986 1, 007, 766 38, 056, 149 14, 379, 125 721, 666 115, 140 315, 534 2, 586, 598 446, 984 171, 911 2, 378, 831 94, 121 Miscella^ neous ex- .$19, 249, 508 3,841 752 171, 035 1, 499, 496 27, 404 21, 492 178, 282 305, 940 40, 469 186. 443 2,728 594, 324 24, 189 4, 900, 703 118, 181 70, 556 18, 054 33, .578 858, 253 649, 032 2, 624, 573 17, 865 205, 041 86, 906 1, 978, 752 56, 263 17, 333 29, 301 241, 573 69, 537 16, 708 226, 851 11, 266 A-VTEKAGE KDMBEE OF BMPLOYJ5S AND TOTAL WAGES. ' Aggregates. Average number. 219, 132 428 31 1,375 13, 047 297 528 2,792 3,109 387 2,012 286 6,453 689 43, 038 1,428 470 1,082 635 9,400 7,248 37, 992 508 3,329 402 55, 354 19, 326 998 359 344 2,303 612 307 3,383 151 Total wages. $76, 660, 742 67, 963 6,231 328, 824 4, 940, 783 103, 395 104, 353 858, 889 817, 387 135, 790 615, 055 62, 517 1,991,676 185, 397 16, 154, 034 390, 147 167, 323 306, 270 156, 887 3, 341, 695 2, 416, 371 13, 033, 901 95, 739 915, 066 175,313 19, 764. 386 7, 049, 109 239, 657 138, 795 121, 176 895, 284 166, 798 67, 380 810, 463 16, 098 a Includes pieceworkers and their wages. TEXTILES— WOOL. ALL CLASSES, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890. 87 AVERAGE NnMBEE OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGE8- -continued. POWER. Ofticera, firm oiembers, and clerics. Operatives and skilled, (a) Unskilled. steam. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 5'eara. Wages. Malea above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Children. "Wages. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Chil- dren. Wages. Nnmber of boilers. Number of engines. Horse power. 5,060 223 $5, 742, 848 89, 063 105, 338 14, 506 $69, 050, 823 4,333 432 187 $1,867,071 3,077 1,798 152, 009 1 6 g 44 227 7 28 119 127 38 89 7 124 24 3,053 2,950 44,590 342, 728 12, 298 17, 227 119, 084 117, 650 29, 670 93, 228 9,514 138,791 21, 350 1, 029, 088 59,498 34, 381 11, 280 31, 476 219, 519 163, 553 974, 723 13, 561 153, 358 32, 775 1, 384, 833 366 744 48, 620 18,115 16, 575 56, 234 • 23, 745 13, 282 134, 150 5,305 29 7 861 6,403 131 95 678 1,053 136 798 20 2,962 207 20, 660 391 180 396 198 3,96i. 3,091 13, 629 146 648 185 20,693 8,672 335 113 145 1,085 297 136 682 40 142 12 418 5,510 110 292 1,344 1,710 178 927 258 2,005 320 18, 725 904 248 443 304 4,688 3,546 20,772 230 2,238 134 26, 646 8,090 441 176 155 1,039 224 117 2,396 96 260 3 24 565 39 101 70 172 15 178 64, 610 3,281 270, 411 4, 460, 816 87, 625 83, 654 716, 695 686, 162 99, 623 605, 203 42, 643 1, 780, 960 161 . 847 14, 683, 068 323, 068 130, 217 293, 190 122, 513 3,007,647 2. 192, 612 11, 819, 654 77, 895 747, 193 136, 983 17,923,026 6, 521, 318 182, 636 115, 980 103, 001 810, 438 140, 069 53, 130 657, 422 40,343 1 300 3 2 15 204 7 3 45 64 13 44 2 68 10 616 35 14 10 28 80 112 393 13 86 3 2 11 100 4 4 33 44 8 31 1 18 7 333 26 12 7 27 41 53 248 10 71 115 35 1,450 8,543 230 59 1,414 2,183 350 2,046 110 3,341 353 35, 687 D15 327 583 748 2,856 5,342 21, 574 257 2, 291 2 3 28 277 8 12 34 38 15 30 1 205 5 1,001 24 6 6 12 207 149 598 18 40 16 1,038 363 24 12 5 80 13 6 54 1 7,823 137, 239 3,472 3,472 23, 110 13, 675 6,497 16,624 360 71,925 2,200 441, 878 7,581 2,725 1,800 2.898 114, 529 60, 206 239, 624 4,283 15, 105 5,555 456, 527 161,047 8,501 4,700 1,600 28,612 2,994 968 18,891 450 4 4 2 43 28 b 7 4 8 2 4 40 3 1 8 9 2 10 1 10 11 12 5 150 133 1,831 32 1 224 59 248 336 2,123 84 229 23 5,400 1,839 120 41 19 40 31 10 116 4 2 13 14 697 ' 74 40 3 1 73 11 15 16 34 17 13 18 68 170 124 802 30 166 U 1,340 276 69 17 20 57 46 36 120 8 4 7 2 26 19 107 12 20 21 31 11 22 23 7 1 24 25 88 4 2 67 44 3 76 37 4 842 242 20 5 7 31 6 19 34 5 498 111 15 4 5 18 5 17 21 5 42, 025 14, 663 772 225 2 7 1,58 J 247 525 810 137 28 27 28 29 30 2 31 1 1 6 2 .32 1 33 9 34 35 b Includes states lianng less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individnal establishments may not be disclosed, distributed as follows: Colorado, 2; Florida, 1; Idaho, 1; Kansas, 2; liebraska, 1; South Carolina, 1; South Dakota, 2; "Washington, 1. These establishments are 88 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 3.— STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, ALL, STATES AND TERRITORIES. The "United States . Alabama -Arkansas California — Connecticut. Delaware ... Georgia — Illiuoia Indiana — Iowa Kentucky. Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts . Michigan Minnesota Mississippi -..'-- - Missouri Nev^ Hamp*^hire . New Jersey New York North Carolina.. Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania. . Khode Island. Tennessee Texas Utah Vermont Virginia "West Virginia. . Wisconsin All other states . POWER — continued. "Water wheels. Num. ber. Horse power. 21, 678 29 2, 228 Turbine wheels. Num- ber. 1,012 135 327 12 112 2,107 57 4,235 130 101 1,409 316 3,623 128 263 1,745 1,821 300 1,474 233 119 624 Horse power. 63, 045 6 234 13 2 1 112 20 151 12 16 292 285 384 357 120 5,560 212 21, 359 479 75 10 6,449 1,001 10, 805 282 289 487 2,007 3,305 241 Other power. Num- ber of motors 270 1,375 429 22 547 31 45 Horse powder. .MACHINERY. Cards, (Sets.) 5 6 2 87 "32 243 8,198 7 70 646 15 22 71 153 36 104 1 387 37 31 52 492 235 1,403 35 112 21 1,29? 572 80 9 31 157 60 42 69 6 Combing machines. For- eign. Ameri- can. 181 Spindles. "Woolen. "Worsted 2, 329, 09D 160 735 18, 598 198, 326 7,306 4,512 24.569 48, 082 10, 828 37, 971 119, 418 8,294 541, 626 17, 239 7,510 9,196 12, 964 148, 870 63, 065 289, 672 4,682 34, 699 6,052 409, 096 177, 072 19, 138 1,900 7,960 51, 423 14, 398 7,404 24, 806 1,528 26,656 190, 814 Cotton. 21, 304 23, 552 118, 704 126, 027 144, 271 2,798 128 5,000 1,850 7,000 2.856 48, 334 20 3,000 22, 528 6,820 20 56, 913 34, 808 800 12 24 292 3,640 229 119 323 1,006 158 1,679 2 2,020 114 16, 854 158 125 376 261 4,049 1,533 5, 103 169 717 95 22, 144 I 6, 607 925 135 99 682 212 153 258 TEXTILES— WOOL. CLASSES, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. 89 COST OF MATERIALS USED, Total. $203, 095, 572 114, 890 28, 030 823, 361 12, 533, 174 295, 605 166, 696 1, 770, 090 2,288,710 507, 478 1, 657, 010 58, 454 5, 709, 186 512, 170 44, 826, 084 888, 431 397, 040 508, 039 342, 405 8, 802, 056 6, 033, 273 30, 428, 307 265, 283 2, 312, 977 327, 502 53, 894, 040 21, 594, 707 760, 036 188, 607 189, 339 2, 084, 167 463, 040 210, 761 2, 016, 384 98, 240 Foreign wool in con- dition purchased. $25, 775, 078 50, 750 1, 580, 778 6,543 10, 200 18, 340 229, 406 90 17, 036 Domestic wool in con- dition purchased. 444, 313 25, 000 7, 217. 287 81, 105 840 1,325,964 468, 281 5, 413, 769 13, 005 142, 908 5, 104, 106 3, 242, 965 38, 218 276, 738 6,308 1,389 59, 739 $72, 766, 406 3,464 23, 325 600, 110 4, 467, 523 139, 658 57, 574 830, 640 1, 454, 290 451, 223 768, 244 100 3, 461, 423 298, 420 18, 213, 516 495, 614 261, 724 359, 239 259, 664 4, 421, 399 3, 007, 835 7, 892. 296 122, 259 1,114,287 256, 374 11, 191, 122 9, 431, 759 407, 407 162, 600 126, 240 948, 234 305, 257 184, 001 1,007,102 41, 483 Shoddy. ■Waste and woo! noils. Camel's hair and noils. i, 029, 334 6,000 8,050 563, 177 16, 546 2,250 23, 557 51, 305 , 7, 650 127, 716 250, 864 4,000 2, 158, 839 37, 058 500 7,920 1,256 508, 895 284, 327 741,588 8,000 34, 768 700 1, 370, 042 393, 535 33, 165 145 $5, 417, 429 196, 458 30, 479 1.740 58, 804 2,600 6,000 216, 646 40, 037 397 6,000 31, 310 5,225 62, 544 42, 000 829, 945 23, 280 400 150, 557 236,369 1, 688, 000 4,672 9,281 1, 310, 650 461,667 8,272 , 250, 367 114, 593 4,458 4,000 5,671 25, 938 548, 240 22, 960 227, 372 680 64 138, 392 552 141 142, 529 246, 627 41, 728 Mohair and noils All other animal hair. $848, 533 228, 386 301, 149 34 456 3,546 173, 672 53, 153 1,938 240 $1, 163, 997 14, 225 90, 000 154, 468 900 45, 744 112,340 3,230 30 732, 363 697 Raw cotton. $8, 568, 149 700 50 12, 536 509, 892 4,063 13, 957 37, 548 173, 278 197, 764 30, 100 245, 329 1,444 1, 174, 865 29, 497 110 13, 471 292, 931 226, 766 2, 816, 867 27. 009 7; 268 7,484 2, 066, 020 429, 488 69, 465 10, 220 1,540 94, 869 60, 901 1,302 11, 415 Yams not made in mill. Woolen. "Worsted. Cotton. $11,285,379 $23,345,646 $17,985,376 7,000 227, 142 18, 291 2, 317, 765 156, 655 34, 736 1,100 24, 389 34, 130 437, 762 75, 989 28, 000 20, 250 110, 069 248, 872 3,600 510, 896 7,610,113 332, 419 20, 988 1,600 30 213 394, 829 5,465 54, 610 11, 002 400 109, 688 33, 391 14, 600 5, 192, 064 16, 250 34, 400 339, 070 461, 099 1, 661, 659 163, 717 '8,'795,'i98' 4, 034, 951 3,287 12, 600 81, 804 95, 742 1.560 1,782 569, 154 50, 400 69,419 459, 161 70. 395 3, 358 227, 743 24, 000 205, 923 38, 190 2, 422, 344 15, 324 8,662 91, 376 15, 548 559, 298 341, 066 2, 240, 634 67, 940 137, 664 11, 120 8, 839, 676 971, 033 166, 340 5,112 146, 056 9,805 4,005 78, 760 Mohair. $534, 169 1.099 3,251 121, 356 35, 500 323, 599 43, 364 ^90 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tabi-m 3.— statistics OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, ALL STATES AND TEEKI- TOBIES. COST OF MATERIALS USED— Continued . Yams not made m mill— Continued. Oil. Soap. Chemicals and dye- stuffs. Fuel. Rent of power and beat. All other materials. 1 ] Silk. Spun silk. Jute. linen. Total. Coal. ■Wood. 1 The "United States.. $1, 395, 176 $591, 226 $1,709,461 $1, 621, 293 $1, 374, 049 $1, 319, 203 $e, 453, 665 $3, 892, 456 $3, 666, 204 $226, 252 $279, 730 $8, 600, 450 1 :-2 3 4 -5 1 353 165 13, 405 95, 934 1,144 893 9,461 14, 112 3,881 9,715 100 49, 279 2,570 303, 969 6,381 4, 203 2,263 4,060 62, 792 52,092 180,414 1,241 14, 543 4,550 368, 370 124, 165 4,737 738 2,m 17, 228 5,210 2,267 11,356 132 675 50 23, 881 470. 674 9,071 1,994 37, 795 113, 217 21, 212 68, 401 550 256, 228 13, 733 1,701,278 16, 476 9,464 13, 400 8,215 367, 358 234, 853 839, 987 4,950 62, 616 27, 591 1, 346, 081 626, 354 14, 823 7,800 8,692 65, 266 14, 487 7,973 50, 865 2,655 2,148 200 39, 701 311,712 2,410 2,394 29, 808 45, 122 6,472 29, 433 2,352 150, 549 9,729 1,059,019 21,836 8,374 13, 455 8,882 231, 83 119, 769 507, 244 2,775 32, 652 5,759 694, 977 438, 352 14. 650 3,128 5,423 44, 430 5,488 4,505 35, 619 1,996 2,043 200 25, 296 282, 289 2,410 1,133 29, 758 44, 612 3,953 28,834 2,352 103, 571 9,639 1, 033, 365 14, 636 6,477 750 7,812 194, 034 119, 769 504, 880 875 31, 662 105 5,808 20 7,679 598, 634 20, 512 2,695 28, 247 29, 920 6,011 92, 053 802 114, 769 26, )i92 1,795,449 15, 848 110 19, 847 87, 931 5,221 465 15, 863 23, 36) 6,081 3,692 50 400 2,455 1,020 144, 200 6,750 52, 970 14, 465 29, 423 46, 577 49, 805 1.261 50 510 2, 519 599 Illinois 36, 385 555 10. 200 8,000 3,820 1,030 g 11 300 450 4,678 112 225 5,565 55, 393 1,462 294. 850 13, 608 5,998 4.277 1,877 74, 734 55, 327 229, 362 1.400 23, 295 6,617 247,996 94, 889 1,272 2,060 2,917 21, 252 4,426 2,197 11, 343 80 46, 978 90 25, 654 7,250 1,897 12, 705 1.070 37, 349 15 Massachusetts 204, 377 36, 925 9,016 100, 299 1,300 203, 047 332, 949 59, 012 1,890 2,142 24,657 18 16, 000 6,998 290,955 177, 433 3, 014, 066 5,102 50,491 7,000 1, 563, 547 494, 148 1,417 1,916 12, 080 111, 607 19,827 728 47, 856 9,383 944 17, 418 3,685 37. 709 100 2,301 250 96, 745 32, 394 270 -20 Sew Hampshire 23, 079 6,371 176, 788 1,660 13, 430 01, 654 37, 061 854, 745 6,437 693, 635 2,364 1,900 990 5,759 1,339 19, 204 2,127 3 10 4,410 785 220 4, 751 465 :23 10, 380 57 479, 623 252, 725 4,090 300 820 r25 :26 ■27 ■28 :28 30 -31 32 33 34 35 Pennsylvania Khode Island 236. 136 94, 921 567, 731 529, 647 693, 638 419, 148 12, 523 3,125 5,413 40, 020 4,708 4.285 30, 868 1,531 250 4,600 450 3,141 58 Virp-inifl 300 7,648 148 8,600 2,193 TEXTILES— WOOL. •CLASSES, BY STATES AND TEERITORIES: 1890— Continued. 91 VALUE OI PRODOCTS Total. $337,768,524 1 1 AU-B-oolen ■woven goodt^. Union or cotton mixecl woven goods. Goods woven on cotton warpa.weft partly or wholly of wool or hair. Uphol. tery goods ana sun- dries- woolen. All worsted woven goods. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of worsted. Uphol- stery goods and sun- dries- worsted. Carpets and rugs. IT elt goods. Wool hats. Hosiery and knit goods. Partly manufac- tured pro- ducts for sale. All other products. $55,892,360 $24,304,966 $39,794,997 $193,863 $26,427,833 $23,592,084 $3,440,270 $46,464,417 $3,120,293 $5,229,176 $63,416,497 $39,433,835 $6,457,933 207,875 38,360 1,421,903 20,843,965 482,022 340,095 3,289,641 3,863,786 700,981 2,784,768 152,455 8,814,256 760,339 72,681,408 1,689,974 723,738 924,185 629,902 14,445,172 9,984,640 53,340.151 435,821 3,915,950 614,932 89,337,419 34,722,493 1,216,419 359,230 392,094 3,829,641 788,809 350,132 3,480,005 206,063 10,800 16,000 7,425 1,548,614 190,725 8,350 19,850 400 716,576 3,861.980 310,662 2,110 601,032 3,695,312 162,000 3,673 500 142,066 38,470 3,663,661 58,'m 199,743 65,000 4,425,471 130,260 305,000 2,184,210 257,442 448,.375 58,907 9,360 20,160 113,720 432,623 94,548 319,411 900 126,962 6,460 9.289.694 149,372 178,560 094,100 28,378 2,084,492 166,850 1,913,526 670,564 7,438 44,000 139,660 76,603 180,823 4,725,024 40 14,609 181,840 826 18,800 11,895 1,008,636 1,738,664 569,792 24315 3.629 293,750 4,468,911 572,156 17,568.523 630,626 464,550 4,900 200,960 3,287,023 2,104,191 3,740,046 58,570 895.664 123,938 5,294,021 5,335,846 46,086 1,335,243 200 5,811,961 360 2,030,536 1,360 174,322 345,342 107,239 147,748 700 7,003,956 10,695,826 9,465 6,704,964 7,532,367 354,286 842,890 1,700,486 451,431 257,380 1,815 607,551 184.592 181,928 75,445 54,075 196,982 412,178 1,811,584 1,575,896 103,606 403,220 4,584 17,355,801 6,821,967 168,804 62,230 41,184 30,283 91,970 89,904 447,727 12,858 450 99,497 1,941,582 2,178,644 1,422,239 330 1.754 16i;040 3,733,950 1,328,383 6,063 181,000 64,569 1,199,453 66,280 28,780 136,495 864.760 50,835 2,525,856 1,089,696 1,159.5.50 146,440 249,652 310,103 11,498,213 2,446,404 996,467 126,000 33,986 764,876 69,065 9,796 81,628 3,413,618 1,077,452 23,494,469 126,625 1,615,640 15,267 15,742,440 2,316,970 225,438 332,699 1,834,785 2,403,120 150,000 1,026,716 3,090 215,302 215,270 150,010 432,285 824,712 83,257 13,365 2,236,894 250 23,860 579,622 14,280,442 40,000 1,489,132 360,000 60 367,100 60,263 28,600 2,675,968 10,227,168 4,949,184 6,489,937 1,365,656 636,324 22,414,127 1,200 138,615 1,443,435 2,665,776 89,694 197,260 648,542 382,294 200,160 1,278,267 98,802 47.960 1,105,958 179,000 21,332 1,478,752 93,663 7,135 2,000 78,629 200 160 138,764 840 92 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 4.— SUMMARY OF STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, Total . Woolen mills "Worsted mills Carpet mills (other than rag) . Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills . . . Number of establish- ments. 1,311 143 173 U 32 796 Value of hired property. $17, 320, 780 6, 859, 174 4, 109, 526 1, 278, 150 128, 400 226, 960 4, 718, 570 Birect investment. Aggregate. $296, 494, 481 130, 989, 940 68, 085, 116 38, 208, 842 4, 460, 621 4, 142, 224 50, 607, 738 "Value of plant. Total. $129, 721, 571 57, 820, 243 27, 890, 810 17, 875, 384 1, 865, 984 1, 194, 389 23, 574, 761 Land. $14, 954, 323 6,534,819 2, 842, 769 2, 884, 139 276, 780 144, 350 2, 271, 466 Buildings. 1, 144, 544 19, 332, 575 7, 962, 865 5, 559, 458 714, 453 381, 105 6, 194, 088 Machinery, tools, and implements. $74, 622, 704 31, 952, 849 17, 085, 176 8,931,787 874, 751 668, 934 15, 109, 207 Live assets. Total. $166, 772, 91C 73, 169, 697 40, 194, .306 20, 833, 458 2, 594, 637 2, 947, 835 27, 032, 977 Haw materials. $45, 330, 372 19, 494, 122 10, 844, 736 6, 754, 041 835, 694 900, 459 6, 501, 320 Total Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills (other than rag) Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills. . . Steam. Number of boilers 3,077 1.547 519 297 74 64 576 Number of engines. 879 274 130 51 34 Horse power. 152, 009 67, 192 36, 727 20, 146 3,155 2,781 22, 008 Water wheels. Number. 460 26 Horse power. 15,249 2,118 295 417 280 3,319 Turbine wheels. Number. 1,012 84 16 U 5 161 Horse power. 39, 783 10, 272 2,236 1,479 234 9,041 Other power. Number of motors. 45 Horse power. 672 276 216 7 173 MACHIKEEY. Cards. (Sets.) 5,243 953 392 198 229 1,183 Combing raachinea. Foreign. 14 Ameri- can. 674 181 39 544 77 9 129 41 Total. Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills (other than rag) . Felt mills ; Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills . . . MACHINERY— Continued. Looms, on carpets and rugs — Continued. Mo- quette power looms. Velvet power looms. 462 Wilton I)ower ooms. hand looms. 1,832 Bug power looms. 1,810 Knitting machines. 36, 462 103 32 36, 327 MATEHIALS USED, Total cost. $203, 095, 572 82, 270, 335 50, 706, 769 28, 644. 90S 2, 809, 937 2, 802, 041 35, 861, 585 Foreign wool in condi- tion purchased. Pounds. 114, 116, 612 16, 822, 138 37, 869, 023 54, 742, 234 1, 689, 588 259, 325 2, 734, 304 Cost. $25, 775, 078 $4, 110, 488 10, 591, 129 9, 422, 031 448, 350 75, 615 1, 127, 465 Domestic wool in condition purchased. Founds. 258, 680, 801 Cost. $72, 765, 406 $44, 749, 323 17, 689, 158 433, 756 1, 393, 032 1, 373, 184 7, 126, 953 Total . Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills (other than rag) Feltmills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills . - - MATERIALS USED— Continued. Tarns not made in mill. Woolen yarn. Pounds. Cost. 31, 385, 664 $11, 285, 379 4, 982, 919 903, 174 18, 763, 201 350, 000 6, 386, 370 3, 000, 984 355, 592 4, 112, 324 24, 982 3, 791, 407 Worsted yarn. Pounds. 28, 813, 717 4, 146, 035 Cost. $23, 345, 646 2, 540, 667 11, 814, 625 4, 711, 249 4, 279, 105 Cotton yarn. Pounds. 83, 624, 868 -23, 990, 406 9, 454, 874 17, 920, 498 10, 241 32, 248, 849 Cost. $17, 985, 376 5, 239, 928 2, 441, 972 2, 712, 484 2,019 7, 588, 973 Mohair yam. J'ounds. Cost 738, 777 824, 181 232,071 182, 400 125 $534, 169 ■ 297, 996 :112, 364 23, 712 Silk yaru. Pounds 244, 806 120, 571 46, 188 Cost. $1, 395, 176 632, 545 344, 556 418, 075 aincludes officers, firm members, and clerks. For detailed information see Table 11. TEXTILES— WOOL. 93 BY CLASSES, FOE THE UNITED STATES: 1890. CAPITAL— continued. Birect investment— Continued. Live assets — Continued. Stock in pro- cess and finished products on baud. $64, 022, 114 29, 489, 237 15, 606, 653 5, 705, 756 824, 370 1, 029, 917 11, 366, 176 Csish, bills and accounts receiv- able, and all sundries not else' where reported. $57, 420, 424 24, 186, 338 13, 742, 912 8, 373, 661 934, 573 1, 017, 459 9, 165, 481 MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. Total. $19, 249, 508 8, 402, 623 4, 917, 760 1, 819, 441 232, 871 249. 568 3, 627, 245 Bent paid for tenancy. ' Taxes. $1, 348, 818 541, 807 296, 237 108, 997 12, 648 19, 070 370, 059 , 174, 793 530, 236 267, 713 168, 468 16, 000 13, 432 178, 944 Insurance. $1, 353, 049 647, 602 250, 38^ 125, 280 29, 825 26, 703 273 254 Hepairs, ordi- nary, of build- ings and ma^inery. 3, 179, 531 1, 390, 810 808, 820 275, 555 49, 686 36, 033 618, 627 Interest paid on cash used in the business. 5, 841, 963 2, 865, 941 1, 595, 813 349, 378 51, 758 79, 134 Sundries not elsewhere reported. , i, 351, 354 2, 426, 227 1, 698, 792 791,763 72, 954 75, 196 1, 286, 422 AVEEAGE NUMBER OF EM- PLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) Employes. 219, 132 79, 351 43,593 29, 121 2,266 3,592 61, 209 Wages. $76, 660, 742 28, 478, 931 15, 880, 183 11, 633, 116 1, 041. 296 1, 363, 944 18, 263, 272 MACHINERY- -continued. Spindles. "Woolen. 2, 329, 099 1, 742, 288 207, 180 53, 046 13, 829 Worsted. 657, 324 19, 750 479, 675 151,132 Cotton. 53, 342 68,225 4,680 Looms on woolen and worsted goods. Broad looms on woolen goods. 20, 848 Broad looms on worsted goods. 19, 028 1,366 194 200 1,037 7,445 Narrow looms on woolen goods. Narrow looms on worsted goods. 17, 653 11, 447 17, 289 297 44 10 1,436 9,936 Hand looms. 448 Looms on carpets and rugs. Ingrain hand looms. 638 Ingrain power 'looms. Venetian hand looms. Venetian J)Ower ooms. 631 157 1 Tapestry brussels power looms. Body brussels power looms. 1,224 1,224 Axmin- ster power looms. 312, 756 09, 830 60 13 MATERIALS USED— continued. Total for- eign and domestic wool iu scoured pounds. 214, 945, 513 100, 226, 094 54. 989, 746 35, 726, 837 4, 213, 230 3, 018, 114 16, 771, 492 Shoddy. 61. 561, 619 51, 862, 397 2, 608, 831 698, 512 1, 450, 384 306, 351 4, 735, 144 Cost. $6, 929, 334 5,398,617 347, 006 39, 295 179, 505 85, 963 878. 948 "Waste and wool noils. Pounds. I Cost. 23, 370, 056 13, 608, 369 1, 391, 444 860, 246 1, 344, 619 662. 092 5, 503, 286 $5, 417, 429 2, 353, 364 466, 648 146, 876 262, 887 166. 162 2. 021, 492 Camel's hair and noils. Pounds. Cost. 7, 684, 804 1,781,240 4,411.543 1, 001, 929 68, 250 11,688 410, 154 $1, 250, 367 289, 970 672, 392 140, 175 3,071 5,610 139, 149 Mohair and noils. Pounds. Cost. 2, 136, 244 60, 533 2, 038, 732 32, 302 4,508 169 $848, 533 15, 991 824, 869 5,466 2,130 87 All other animal iiair. Pounds. 16, 866, 764 $1, 153, 997 9, 619, 277 1, 083, 690 3, 645, 096 2, 355, 928 147, 600 14, 173 493, 492 120, 585 373, 823 48, 301 113, 878 3,918 Raw cotton. Pounds. 75, 428, 1 36. 993, 712 3, 881, 743 1, 726, 761 395, 032 32, 432, 617 Cost. $8, 568, 149 4, 198, 527 438, 637 181, 637 37, 133 3, 712, 215 MATERIALS USED— continued. Yarns not made in mill — Continued. Spun silk yarn. Pounds $591,226 69,368 19,427 42,744 Cost. 281,211 127,776 182,240 Jute yarn. Pounds. 23,795,444 $1,709,461 125,327 23,670,117' Cost. 13,181 i,696,280 Linen yam. Pounds. Cost. 10,123,816 $1,621,293 2,629 100.360 9,719,242 301,695 896 50,473 1,604,590 Gallons 4,243,618 $1,374,049 2,439,573 664.750 546,734 41,240 22,817 528,504 Cost. 773,839 258,476 184,891 14,704 7,102 135,037 Soap. Pounds. 39,290,827 $1,319,203 18,572,964 9,486,021 3,118,925 834,206 631,476 6,647,236 Cost. 614,997 333,288 101,499 32,718 23,867 212,844 Chemi- cals and dyestuffs. Cost. $6,453,665 3,213,929 1,445,965 978,877 122,100 128,741 564,053 Fuel. Total cost. $3,892,456 1,711,169 1,048,245 446,501 92,561 84.904 509,086 Coal. "Wood. ' Cost. Cost. $3,666,204 1.628,208 1,026,320 446,251 90,563 84,904 489,968 $226,252 182,961 21,925 250 1,998 19,118 Rent of power and heat. Another materials- Cost. $279,730 108,669 62,427 18.055 760 2,250 87,579 Cost. $8,600,450 2,230.554 1,060,587 1,411,394 1J2,816 707,663 3,017,436 94 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 4.— SUMMARY OF STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTUKE, Total Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills (otlier than rag) Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills . . PRODUCTS. value. $337, 768, 524 133, 577, 977 79, 194, 652 47,770,103 4, 654, 768 5, 329, 921 67, 241, 013 All wool vroveu good*. Total. Square yards. 101, 299, 065 95, 807, 636 4, 800, 230 111,862 679, 337 Value. $55, 892, 360 51, 205, 385 1, 109, 368 80, 300 497, 307 Cloths, doeskins, caesi^ meres, cheviots, JDidi;go flannels, and broa«Uloths for men's w«ar. Square yards. 25, 637, 998 23, OOP, 903 2, 263, 947 Yalu«, $24,070,808 21, 648. 049 2, 067, 9«2 Oviereoa^tfngs, cloakings, and kerseys for Ijoth ^tien'e and women's wear. Square yards. 4, 82«, 767 4, 020, 612 806, 155 Value. $5, 746, 015 4, 695. 723 1, 050, 292 Carriage cloths of all weights. Square yards. Value. -I- !, 92 1 : $626. 791 1, 282, 921 626, 701 Total . Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills {other than rag) . Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills - . . PRODUCTS — continued. Union or cotton mixed woven goods. Total. Square | ^ j yards. ! 56,322,882 $24,304,966 54, 385, 108 1, 937, 774 23, 009, 976 1, 294, 990 Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, or other goods for men^ wear. Square yards. 21, 042, 283 20, 023, 283 1, 019, OOO Value. $12,720,597 12, 103, 503 617, 094 Overcoatings and cloakiugs. Square yards. 4, 379, 128 3, 528, 942 850, 186 Value. f3, 141, 111 2, 497, 002 644, 019 Sackings, tricots, and dress goods for women's wear. Square yards. 9. 892, 377 $2, 532, 598 2, 532, 598 Flannels and linseys. Square yards. 11,021,679 11, 621, 679 Value. 1, 314, 733 Total - Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills (other than rag). Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills . . - PRODUCTS — continued. Gowls woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair — Continued^ Wool-filling dress goods and repellents. Square yards. 17, 655, 803 17, 130, 803 505. 000 Value. $4,274,012 4, 184, 262 89, 750 Flannels and shirt- ings. Square yards. 16, 778, 222 $4, 795, 797 16, 729, 685 33, 390 4, 782, 829 6,104 Blankets. Square 8, 703. 822 2, 225, 707 Value. :, 068, 666 2, 546, 338 522, 328 Jeans, kerseys, and linseys. Square yards. 17, 1216, 21T $4, 7S8, 034 17, 126, 217 4,738,034 Upholstery goods and sundries — wool. Total value. $193, 803 133, 600 ""66,'263 Tapestry, terry, rep, and damask. Sq uare yards. 35, 000 'i6i.'s82 Value. $100, 263 PRODUCTS— continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of worsted. Total. Square yards. Total - 78, 021, 820 Woolen.luills Worsted mills 'Carpet mills (other than rag) . Felt mills Wool hat mills Hosiery and knitting mills.-. 5, 268, 142 72, 753, 678 Value. $23, 592, 084 2, 000, 031 21,592,053 Cassimeres, doeskins, coat- ings, suitings, and other goods for men's wear. Square yards. 10,878,800 668, 597 10, 310, 203 $9,913,126 563. 225 < 349, 901 Wai'sted-filling dress goods, delaines, cashmeres, serges, and othe^ stuffs for women's wear. Squaire. yards. 62, 537, 940 3,531,356 59, 026, 584 Value. $1% 423, 438 990. 904 11, 432, 534 Linings, Italian cloths, and lastliigs. Square yards. Value. 4, 585, 080 1, 168, 189 3, 416, 891 $l,25.-,520< 445, 01)2' 809, 018 TEXTILES— WOOL. BY CLASSES, FOR THE UNITED STATES: 1890— Continued. 95- PEODUCTS— contimied. All wool woven goods— Continued. Dress goods, sacbiDgs, tri- cots, ladies' cloth, broad- cloth, and other goods for womer's wear. 1 Flannels. Blankets. Horse blankets. 1 Carriage Tobes. "Woven shawls, wool or worsted. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Squane yards. Value. 1 Square yardsi Value. i Square y?,rds. Value. 25, 237, 390 $9,014,477 32, 795, 600 $10,472,019 6, 059, 725 $2, 694, 574 924, 049 $518, 249.. 775, 963 ' $^a,.904 4,758,652 $2, 098, 523 1 24,608,977 628, 413 8,769,257 245, 220 32,762,273 17, 182 10, 458, 567 2,662 4,666,057 356, 000 2, 532, 324 141, 250 666, 625 97, 548- 4, 500 155, 37fl 357,411 52, 258 1,280. 106, 330 257, 298 411, 303 107, 362. 145, 019 422, 835 79,05(1, 4,533,97C 224, C82 1, 971, 654 126, 869 2 3 4 16, 145 10,800 37,668 21, 000 5 B. ■" 7 PRODUCTS— continued. ' Union or cotton mixed woven goods — Continued. Goods woven on eotton*warps, weft partly or wholly offwool or hair> Blankets. Horse hlanliets. 1 Total. Cassimeres,- doeskins, coatings, suitings, ana< other goods for men's - wear. Overcoatings and cloakings. Satinets. 1 Square yards. 4. 804, 390 Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Squara yards. "^alue. Square yards* Value. Square yards. Value. it 1. 390, 660 4, 583, 025 " *"4,~514,'43'7 68, o88 $1, 205, 267 116, 686, 568 $39,794,997 29,788,143 $14,426,731 5, 6777998 $4, 195, 075. IS, 630, 656 $4,296,082 8, 4, 804, 390 1, 390, 660 1, 171, 390 33, 877 111, 027, 431 5, 617, 176 37, 199, 986 2, 569, 617 27,882,734 1,890,070 13,273,684 1, 142, 821 4, 8. J, 989 803, 009 3, 387,, 061 808, 614 .18, 619, 181 4, 287, 778 10 11 12 13 14 41, 961 25, 394 15, 339 10, 2261 11,475 8,30i ] , PRODUCTS— continued. Uphol stery goods and sundries — wool — Continued. ids ing [ire A'll worsted woven goods. Braids an ing d braid- Picture cord. Total bra and braid and pict cord. Total. Coatings ; serges and" suitings for men's wear. Dress goods, cashineres, serges, and other goods for women's, wear. Buntings. ■Running yards. Value. Eunning yards. Value. Eunninft- yards. Square yards. Value. Square- yards. Value. square yards. Value. Square yards. 566. 880 1 1 Value. 60, 000 $28, 600 50, 000, 000 $65, 000 50, 060, 000 29, 507, 286 $26,427,833 17, 591, 087 $22,386,462 11, 349, 31S $3, 905, 398 $136,983 15,. 60, 000 28, 600 50, 000, 000 65, 000 50, 060, 000 3, 048, 248 26. 459, 038 2, 626, 174 23, 801, 659 2, 030, 928 15,560,159 2,245,287 20, 141, 165 1. 017,320. 10, 331, 999 380, 887 3,524,611 Ifi 566, m 135, 983 17 ]8„ 19 20 21 * 1 F RODUOTS— continued. Upholstery goods and sundries — worste d. Total carpets and rugs. Carpets. Total value. $3,440,270 "Worsted or mohair goods, tapestry, plush, terry, and rep. Braids and braiding. Webbings, gorings, elastic fabrics, bindings, fringes, and other sundries. Ingrain, 2-ply. Ingrain, 3-ply. Ingrain, art. Square yards. Value. Running y.nrds. Value. Kuuning yards. Value. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 3, 994, 406 $2, 206, 61S ; S2. 545, 251 $993, 022 1,264,500 $181, 630 $46, 464, «17 32, 921, 489 $13, 781, 984 3,251,368 $1,816,484 563, 513 $325, 984 2a. 1, 330, 332 2, 019, 630 OX 302 TT 1, 066, 972 1, 108, 344 90, 302 115, 000 82, 430, 251 106, 000 887, 022 1 1,092,700 101,800 i57, 360 24, 27P 7,334 •2, 830 1,290 ''■^ 1, 096, 293 87, 955 **4 46, 457, 083 32, 918, 059 l;i.780,e94 i;3,251,368 1, 816, 484 653,513 325,984 '5. •rfi 27 2.i i i 1 96 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 4.— SUMMARY OF STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTUKE, CLASSES. PBODCCTS— contin ued. ed. Carpets— Con tintJ Tapestry hrussels. ' Body brussels. Tapestry velvet. > Wilton or wilton velvet. Axminster. Eunniug yards. 1 Value. Bunning i yards. 6,245,465 Value. ! Bunning yards. "Value. Bunning yards. Talue. $1,682,409 Bunning yards. Talue. 1 Total "Woolen mills 23, 205, 844 $14,263,662 $5,319,733 2,482,128 $2,239,166 1, 030, 101 379, 841 $473, 165 ^> 500 250 ■\ Worsted mills 4 Carpet mills {other than rag) Felt mills 23, 205, 844 14, 263, 662 6,245,465 5, 319, 733 2,482,128 2,239,i66 1, 030, 101 1,582,409 379, 341 472, 915 H Wool hat mills -■ ■ 1 7 Hosiery and knitting mills I CLASSES. PRODOCTS — continued. Bugs — Continued. Felt goods. Smyrna. Other woolen. Total. Cloths. Trimmings and linings. Skirts and skirting. Number. Talue. Num ber. ■ Talue. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Talue. $986, 883 Square yards. Talue. Square yards. Talue. ^ Total 1, 430, 036 $2,868,000 26,84 5 $73,817 6,950,001 $3, 120, 293 2, 628, 546 1, 176, 114 $90. 738 1,800 $1, 200 500 1,000 37, 619 1,009 103, 258 6, 808. 115 22, 815 1,524 67, 118 3, 028, 836 20,000 1,009 6,000 1,624 1,800 1,200 in 11 Carpet mills (other than rag ) Felt mills 1, 429, 536 2, 367, 000 26,84 5 73, 817 1? 2, 607, 537 979,364 1, 176, 114 90, 738 n Wool hat mills i 1+ i ! , 1 CLASSES. PEODUCTS— continued. Wool hats. Hosiery and kn It goods. Total. Wool hats. All other hats. Total value. $63; 416, 497 "NVoolen half hose. "Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Talue. Dozens. Talue. I'i Total 1, 046, 481 $.'5,229,176 , 972, 475 $4, 612, 151 74,006 $617, 025 1,363,062 $2, 900, 143 100 300 100 300 97, 770 2,238 7,321 17 "Worsted mills IR 1<) Felt mills ! «0 Wool hat mills 1,046,381 5,228,876 972, 375 4,611,851 74, 006 617, 025 ''1 63, 318, 727 i, 360, 824 2,892,822 CLASSES. PRODUCTS— continued. Hosiery and knit goods— Continued. All cotton shirts and drawers. Leggings and gaiters. Gloves and mittens. Hoods, sea rfa, 1 lubias, etc. Dozens. Value. Dozens. ■ "^alue. Dozens. Talue. Dozens. Talue. 00 Total 3, 247, 090 $9, 032, 221 25, 072 1685. 401 898, 081 $1, 942, 030 340 407 1 500 8,000 1,931 6,950 ■>.( Worsted mills ■'5 Carpet mills (other than rag) '« Felt mills W Wool hat mills 28 Hosiery and knitting mills 3, 246, 590 9,024,221 25, 072 85,401 896, 150 1,935,080 342,497 1,476,430 TEXTILES— WOOL. 97 BY CLASSES, FOR THE UNITED STATES: 1890— Continued. PRODUCTS — continued. Moquette. Bunniug yards. 3.193,186 Value. $3, 247, 845 Carpets— Continued. Smyrna. Square yards. 127, 177 Value. $332, 718 Square yards. 77,410 6,100 Value. $25, 629 2,490 AU other. Square yards. 1,316,743 3,925 Value. $425, 857 2,304 Bugs. Wnton. Number. 40, 644 Value. $87, 702 Moquette, Kumber. 60, 000 Value. $66, 000 In grain. Number. 6,278 Value. $34, 262 3, 193, 186 3, 247, 845 127, 177 332, 718 71, 310 23, 139 1, 312, 818 40, 644 87, 702 66, 000 6,278 PRODUCTS— continued. Felt goods — Continued. Table and piano covers. For ladies' hats. Square yards. 20, 000 Value. $57, 400 Square yards. Value. $18, 000 Saddle felts. & ! ^'^-- 45, 904 $22, 952 Rubber shoe linings. Square yards, 2, 087, 557 Value. $576, 946 Endless belts. Square yards. 216, 982 Value. $1, 086, 086 Druggets. Square yards. 185, 338 1, 742 Hair felting. Square yards. Value. $188, 341 36, 000 18, 000 904 22, 952 2, 087, 557 576, 946 201, 163 1, 070, 471 103, 258 82, 080 67, 118 24,624 551, 760 188, B41 PRODUCTS — continued. Hosiery and knit goods — Continued. Woolen liose. Dozens. 2, 251, 541 8,997 Value. $4, 744, 009 21, 213 Merino or mixed balf hose. Dozens. Value. $605, 173 400 Merino or mixed bose. Dozens. Value. $791, 227 Cotton half hose. Dozens. 5, 341, 628 $3, 936, 536 Cotton hose. 7, 387, 409 Value. $6,214,202 150 Merino or mixed shirts and drawers. Dozens. $15, 055, 999 AU woolen shirts and drawers. Dozens. Value. $8, 921, 777 40,000 2,242,544 4,722,796 376,053 604,773 433,083 791,227 ; 5,341,628 3,936,536 7,387,259 6,214,052 2,526,226 15,055,999 1,088,841 8,881,777 PRODUCTS— continued. Hosiery and knit goods— Continued. Cardigan jackets, fancj- jackets, etc. Dozens. Shawls. Dozens. 361,478 $3,576,248 22, 990 Value. $115, 467 Fancy knit goods, wristers, etc. Dozens. Value. 270, 633 $759, 748 100 Boot and shoe lining. Yards. 7, 596, 711 Value. $1, 088, 558 Jersey cloth. Yards. 3, 072, 533 7,476 Value. 1, 171, 328 361,478 I 3,576,248 2457—7 22, 990 115, 467 270, 533 759, 648 7, 596, 711 1, 088, 558 3,065,057 2, 157, 692 98 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 4.— SUMMAEY OP STATISTICS OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, CLASSES. PBODncTS— continued. Partly manufactured products for sale. Total. Woolen yam, all wool. Woolen yarn, union or merino. Worsted yam. Cottoi yarn. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. 1 Total ... 88, 134, 330 $39,433,835 35,415,360 $10,742,882 6, 799, 813 $2, 320, 088 29, 376, 182 $22,411,363 3, 692, 936 $782, 849 ? 48, 077, 114 36, ()52, 126 2, 618, 410 10, 000 9,500 1, 369, 180 14, 304, 804 23, 529, 514 953, 127 9,000 1,045 636, 345 30,768,571 3, 341, 036 443, 573 10, 000 8, 990, 106 1, 166, 737 104, 336 9,000 6, 670, 757 71, 419 57, 637 2, 253, 792 54, 271 12, 025 2, 673, 546 24, 763, 501 1, 922, 135 1,306,927 20,291,046 799, 748 3, 159, 047 33, 889 626, 072 6,777 3 4 Carpet mills {other than rag) Felt mills 5 6 7 Hosiery and knitting mills 852, 180 472, 703 17,000 13,642 500,000 150, 000 Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES AND TEERITORIES. Number of establish. ments. CAPITAL. Value of hired property. ■■ Direct investment. Aggregate. Value of plant. Live assets. Total. Land. Buildings. $19,332,575 Machinery, tools, and im- plements. Total. Eaw ma- terials. 1 The United States 1,311 $6,859,174 $130, 989, 940 $57, 820, 243 $6, 534, 819 $31, 952, 849 $73, 169, 697 $19, 494, 122 6 6 8 55 3 14 23 45 14 40 75 9 165 32 21 7 35 46 21 91 27 64 6 264 40 49 4 9 29 35 30 32 6 400 18, 325 27, 435 2, 618, 480 10, 188, 042 450, 974 298, 539 1, 649, 918 2, 880, 114 894, 600 2, 580, 737 8, 338, 864 372, 875 34, 911, 187 943, 598 563, 771 1,553,455 720, 616 7, 540, 233 3, 810, 832 7, 243, 380 339, 088 1, 609, 574 1, 350, 585 21, 871, 137 9, 360, 927 1, 393, 679 371, 270 579, 209 3, 304, 382 846, 221 336, 281 2, 333, 700 108. 912 15, 250 21, 800 1, 540, 103 4, 614, 627 257, 000 208, 440 600, 939 1, 385, 795 293, 800 1, 211, 058 3, 503, 276 228, 600 13, 653, 662 383, 484 374, 881 876, 030 475, 428 2, 882, 643 1, 987, 064 4, 295, 243 184, 530 , 782, 951 342, 820 10, 266, 284 3, 476, 501 672, 013 266, 130 282, 126 1, 268, 110 421,737 167, 270 850, 491 60. 200 3,800 1,750 170, 300 462, 050 33, 500 19, 222 68, 775 83, 437 31,450 69, 936 327, 725 32, 200 1, 871, 678 23, 900 143, 350 84,650 68, 769 330, 825 355, 275 443, 070 30, 980 78, 716 54, 600 1, 123, 223 288, 396 70, 545 62, 005 31, 825 158, 285 65, 319 15, 296 137, 080 13, 100 1,760 6,060 432, 706 1, 862, 474 80, 000 94, 525 193, 864 358, 859 83, 350 309, 960 1, 377, 050 75, 800 5, 217, 380 119, 531 114, 175 201, 950 143, 808 938, 618 602, 626 1,400,417 44,800 242, 589 96, 308 3,020,191 944, 200 180, 210 44, 050 83, 600 505, 625 127,475 54, 400 291, 838 14, 500 9,700 14, 000 937, 098 2, 290, 1C3 143,500 94, 693 338, 300 915, 499 179, 000 831, 161 1, 798, 501 120, 800 8, 764, 804 240, 033 117, 336 809, 430 262, 861 1, 613, 200 969, 184 2, 451, 756 108, 750 461, 647 191, 914 6, 122, 870 2, 243, 905 421, 258 150, 076 167, 000 604, 200 228, 943 97, 575 421, 573 32, 800 3,075 . 5,635 1, 078, 377 5, 673, 415 193, 974 90, 099 1, 048, 979 1, 514, 319 400, 800 1, 349, 681 4, 835, 588 144, 275 21, 257, 525 560, 134 188, 910 877, 425 245, 188 4, 857, 590 1, 823, 768 2,948,137 154, 558 826, 623 1, 007, 765 11, 404, 853 5, 884, 426 721, 666 115, 140 297,084 2, 036, 272 423, 484 169,011 1, 483, 209 48, 712 1,525 1,235 183, 310 1, 644, 877 72, 170 20, 317 261, 275 358, 302 72, 900 374, 747 1,437,520 46, 300 5, 533, 310 115, 327 50, 657 156, 791 69, 893 1, 658, 994 632, 288 597, 797 36, 911 223, 051 185, 706 3. 191, 644 1,513,534 191. 065 28; 740 60, 784 474, 356 97, 132 48, 708 249, 498 11,460 s 4 81, 870 252, 186 fj q 3,000 42, 725 13, 700 87, 700 76, 400 9 in n T> 2, 289, 401 85, 250 6,300 T^ 16 IH 11,950 42, 500 228, 583 89, 865 19 ''O ''1 0!) 14, 650 ni '>^ 2, 164, 439 1, 253, 000 2,700 ■"fi Khode Island Q7 oq iq Utah 22, 250 16, 300 38, 000 2,800 29, 725 3,500 SO ?1 ■19 34 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. For detailed information see Table 12. TEXTILES— WOOL. 99 BY CLASSES, FOE THE UNITED STATES: 1890— Continued. PB0DDCT6— continued. Partly manufactured products for sale — Continued. All other products. ■Woolen card rolls. Worsted slubbing and tops. Worsted noils. Waste. Shoddy and miingo. Wool extract. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Value. 1,435,215 $704, 581 1 391, 501 $106, 516 4,466,621 $1,462,050 4,334,436 $691,402 1,586,300 $179,851 635, 966 $32, 253 $6, 457, 933 I 1,435,215 704, 581 31,400 360, 101 18, 840 87,676 45,000 4, 337, 621 84,000 13, 000 1,433,050 16, 000 1, 085, 178 3,130,693 109, 065 180,425 488, 914 21, 018 1, 583, 300 3,000 179, 351 500 625, 100 10, 866 31,710 543 1,639,470 276,291 ,62,000 1,694,231 100, 000 3, 285, 941 2 3 4 1 5 9,500 1,045 1 6 1 7 i STATES AND TERRITOEIES: 1890. CAPITAL — continued. Direct investment — Continued. Live assets — Continued. Stock iu process and finished products on baud. $29, 489, 237 600 2,000 545, 934 2, 407, 033 86, 166 221. 909 58, 400 146,438 690, 274 131, 075 83,285 543, 485 30,852 Cash, bills and accounts re- ceivable, and all sundi-ies not elsewhere re- ported. $24, 186, 338 950 2,400 349,133 1,621,505 35, 648 47,671 22, 111 379, 572 408, 132 643, 614 512, 403 220, 850 107, 050 400, 397 574, 537 2,474,190 923, 878 • 81,825 16, 150 8, 421, 466 7, 300, 749 155, 603 280, 204 115, 900 22, 353 337, 667 182, 967 114, 865 70, 430 1,979,232 1,019,364 6U6, 121 585, 359 1,025,058 1, 326, 282 62, 127 55, 520 307, 779 295, 793 383, 629 438, 430 4, 229, 617 3, 983, 592 2,554,613 1, 816, 279 308, 692 28,000 89, 862 871, 642 195, 277 37, 018 690, 228 6,400 .MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. Total. $8, 402, 623 419 752 168, 324 614, 561 27, 404 10, 887 110, 159 232, 105 40, 050 176, 755 472, 848 14, 442 2. 618, 078 42, 713 46, 211 18, 054 29, 775 483, 598 405, 715 353, 245 14, 758 100, 326 86, 906 1, 356, 208 530, 536 56, 263 17, 333 27, 155 178, 385 43, 972 15,418 104, 226 5,043 Rent paid for tenancy. $541, 807 24 "5,' 696' 14, 059 240 2,323 1,100 8,300 5,968 176, 810 4,414 355 3,236 14, 974 7,871 182, 228 102, 374 165 2,550 1,040 3,170 300 2,440 340 T.axes. $530, 236 195 112 8,086 37, 071 887 1,627 6,943 13,940 4,761 9,979 31; 675 2,542 202, 245 3,527 3,404 7,978 2,553 38, 803 16, 711 15, 555 1,394 8,987 2,795 49, 593 20, 914 6,953 929 3,965 9,510 2,485 1,573 11, 886 658 Insurance. Repairs, ordinary, of buildings and machinery $647, 602 120 25 19, 657 45, 520 2,142 16 10, 134 25, 201 3,346 17, 353 44, 397 1,392 161, 666 4,148 4,721 5,111 4,638 32, 410 19, 438 27, 514 976 11,824 13, 877 108, 810 37, 498 7,124 2,104 4,180 11, 551 5,613 1,529 13, 269 408 80 225 11, 617 90, 140 8,251 19,312 50, 774 8,398 31, 667 83, 585 3,434 397, 922 6,494 8,905 635 8,118 92, 725 66, 629 66, 665 1,220 20, 739 7,804 241, 688 87, 419 12, 499 2,100 8,276 29, 045 4,601 4,899 12, 116 620 Interest paid on cash used in the business. Sundries not elsewhere re- ported. $2, 865, 941 90 102, 249 244,442 1,705 5,132 31, 360 76, 135 12, 021 46, 472 221, 907 3,945 1,006,373 17, 500 13, 281 2,160 11, 523 147, 803 99, 349 60, 890 915 31, 984 33, 984 336, 640 190, 609 18, 719 4,150 8,100 69, 968 18, 443 6,703 40, 372 2,017 $2, 426, 227 300 21, 019 183, 329 14, 419 803 42, 170 C3, 732 10,424 62, 984 85, 316 3,129 673, 062 6,630 15, 545 2,170 2,277 166, 622 188, 614 175, 760 10, 253 26, 627 28,446 437, 349 91, 721 10, 803 8,050 85 57, 271 9,760 1,414 24,153 1,000 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) Employ68. 16 31 1,264 5,173 297 179 914 2,103 378 1,803 4,323 383 19, 813 518 341 1,082 510 4,189 4,228 2,969 324 1,032 402 16,061 6,028 359 274 1,685 444 287 982 61 Wages^. $38, 478, 931 3,125 6,231 287, 658 2, 035,.462 103, 395 32,401 313, 780 SOOi 062 133, 240 554,6-44' 1,629,868 123,331 7, 586, 575 156, 128 120, 967 306, 270 122, 410 1, 643, 168 1, 481, 315 1, 046, 778 65, 329 294, 366 175, 313 5, 729, 982 2, 297, 416 239, 657 138, 795 104, 156 625, 440 117, 023 61, 919 324, 772 17,436 b Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; Louisiana, 1; South Carolina, 1; South Dakota, 2. 100 MANUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TERRITORIES. MACHINERY. Cards. (Sets.) Combing machines. Spindles. Looms on woolen and worsted goods. ' Foreign. 39 American. 9 Woolen. Worsted. Cotton. Broad looms on woolen goods. 1 Broad looms on worsted goods. Narrow looms on woolen goods. 1 Tbe United States 5,243 1, 742, 288 19, 750 63, 342 19, 028 1,037 17,289 2 6 7 70 351 15 20 57 127 36 97 361 30 1,405 51 37 31 52 343 144 271 35 96 21 865 311 80 9 31 120 54 41 62 7 160 735 18, 598 124,478 7,306 3,552 18, 745 40, 690 10, 828 36, 346 118, 138 8,294 484, 228 13, 559 7,510 9,196 12, 964 111, 728 61, 697 73, 019 4,682 26, 417 6,052 325, 327 114, 782 10,138 1,900 7,960 128 12 21 7 586 189 119 138 786 65 1,606 40 61 2,395 80 26 38 187 251 177 466 139 269 10 7,599 626 792 107 43 187 85 111 62 19 3 Arkansas 3 285 1,546 40 California 5 Connecticut 120 1 7 Georgia s Illinois 185 218 103 15 1,736 49 6,256 77 99 338 74 1 623 <* 4 6,000 1 10 Iowa 11 Kentucky ::: i i 1 35 7,000 2, 866 2,008 13 3.4 Massachusetts 54 ^6 " "" 1 117 TR 20 19 120 4,880 fin ■20 6 , 714 241 762 37 •21 K'fiw Xork 3,740 6, 308 20 '22 12 187 84 < 2, 545 1.120 14 28 56 496 125 42 183 14 Ohio 1 25 18 16 i, 730 11, 232 21, 524 2,888 800 397 58 26 1 27 30 41. 839 12, 382 7, ■,64 21, 346 1,528 31 3 1,788 13 34 50 TEXTILES— WOOL. 101 AND TEREITOKIES: 1890— Continued. MACHINERY— continued. MATERIALS USED. Looms on woolen and worsted goods —Continued. Looms on carpets and rugs. Total number of power looms. Knitting machines. 103 Total cost. Foreign wool in condition purchased. Domestic wool in condition pur- chased. Pounds. Cost. Pounds, Cost. Narrow looms on worsted goods. Hand looms. Ingrain hand looms. Ingrain power looms. Kug hand looms. 1,436 298 7 1 22 38, 791 $82,270,335 16, 822, 138 $4, 110, 488 168, 485, 806 $44, 749, 323 2 12 24 292 2,294 229 119 323 1,005 158 1,622 1,811 110 8,711 158 125 376 261 1,954 1,140 1,280 169 456 94 11,449 2,238 811 135 99 682 210 153 258 33 10, 997 28, 030 788, 916 5,753,095 295, 605 95,999 789, 310 1,850,809 505, 503 1,365,246 4,960,119 424, 855 21,815,199 529, 515 309, 378 508, 039 311,881 4,834,446 3, 281, 979 2, 930, 932 198, 358 962,270 327, 502 19,198,990 6, 042, 754 760, 036 188, 607 163, 864 1,435,163 375, 175 202,801 978,479 46, 483 10, 569 67, 500 3,564,471 12, 379, 858 495, 829 176, 992 2,507,621 5,687,051 1, 880, 232 2, 407, 292 11. 530, 733 786, 200 46, 826, 715 1, 622, 034 1, 358, 290 1, 565, 824 1, 048, 229 12, 561, 277 7, 966, 247 4, 453, 263 398, 500 2, 365, 636 1, 866, 148 24, 438, 385 11,609,947 1,260,861 572,400 800, 500 2, 660, 820 950,378 595, 822 2,461,482 219, 700 3,464 23, 325 600, 110 3, 273, 214 139, 658 57, 674 636, 665 1, 344, 171 451, 223 643, 110 3,820,263 298, 420 12, 971, 031 432, 226 261, 724 359, 239 269, 664 3, 190, 903 1,976,024 1,516,792 122,259 769,675 256, 374 5, 865, 342 3, 364, 913 407,407 162, 600 126, 240 692,225 304,507 177, 701 699, 697 41, 683 2 » 145, 000 656,752 35,369 32, 000 69, 000 476, 633 300 57, 037 1, 231, 813 lOO, 000 2, 105, 248 88, 665 50, 750 218, 727 6,643 10,200 18, 340 98. 498 90 17, 086 369, 411 25,000 745, 930 22, 757 4. 42 10 b. » 2 1 5 7 * 1 «» lO 1 1 3 2 IL 12: 1 IS. 6 1 16 8 1* li> IB. IT 4,000 526, 759 158, 639 1, 288, 483 60, 760 174, 764 840 120, 548 32, 337 377, 802 13,005 36,408 W ID- 8 15 18 20 19 21 22- 11 1 35 6 9 9 2S-. 1 3 24 907 434 5 144 1 22 6,446,668 1,522,915 187, 625 1,022,445 591, 229 38, 218 2i>- 2». 114 27 2* 2!> 1, 279, 250 25, 367 5,001 164, 090 233, 038 6,808 1,389 64, 13!i 30 2 31 32 1 33 2 1 2 34 i 102 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TERRITORIES. MATERIALS USED— Continued. Total foreign and domes- tic wool in scoured pounds. Shoddy. "Waste and wool noils. Camel's hair and noils. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. - Cost. 1 The trnited States Alabama 100,226,094 51, 862, 397 $5, 398, 617 13,608,369 $2, 353, 364 1,781,240 $289, 970 v. 10, 569 64,500 1, 588, 993 6, 341, 262 265, 599 147, 646 1, 321, 669 ^ 3, 478, 264 960, 916 1,542,884 6, 784, 485 372, 900 25, 493, 874 897, 016 781, 552 810, 562 644, 238 6, 693, 439 4, 466, 131 3, 520, 270 371, 952 1, 848, 702 673, 594 17, 814, 990 7, 043, 711 1, 135, 578 832, 160 365, 500 1, 766, 642 659, 745 438, 250 1,477,461 111, 150 20, 000 6,000 :i Arkansas 5,000 30, 000 431, 457 557, 398 2,474 2,500 6,000 112, 120 40, 037 397 4 53, 111 5,211,440 95, 890 10, 000 67, 253 144, 303 46, 000 707,940 1,498,807 40, 000 20, 272, 168 269, 148 4,000 36, 000 7,000 3, 174. 370 2, 778, 040 1, 197, 099 40, 000 199, 680 5,000 12, 125, 904 1, 803, 842 197, 690 1,000 8,050 521, 756 16, 546 2,250 17, 577 21, 729 7,650 110, 016 247, 233 4,000 1, 934, 590 31, 383 500 7,920 1,256 263, 333 270, 902 151, 513 8,000 33, 768 700 1, 135, 070 318, 389 33. 165 145 5 67, 568 15,552 « 7 19, 867 4,458 » fl Indiana 48,600 8,040 600 282 10 11 Kentucky 21,064 196. 486 150, 000 4, 799, 883 9,300 2,105 62, 544 43, 000 664, 839 2,304 1?, 35, 178 12, 618 13 14 TVTnss^pli n sp.tts 375, 868 88, 610 16 16 17 18 "MisamiT'i 4,000 538, 851 731, 704 216, 177 45, 738 38, 312 400 107,735 130, 653 56, 669 4,672 7,281 ll 105, 000 18, 600 ■?o New Jersey ^1 9,409 3.934 1?2 •9!i Ohio 3,600 680 ?4 7,5 5, 086, 267 340,946 49, 100 875, 886 133, 995 8,272 1, 109, 464 38, 284 131, 704 7,930 •^6 1',7 7R Texas ■?<) Utah .' 800 50, 000 5,547 832 248, 443 64 12, 000 402 141 72, 308 ■SO 1,562,221 88, 585 9,632 196, 274 192, 936 16, 229 1,740 34,271 8,650 1,500 1,938 240 '11 V) West Virginia r\ 6,262 :i, 424 ■'I'l TEXTILES— WOOL. 103 AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. MATERIALS USED— continued. Mohair and noils. All other an imal hair. liaw cotton. Yams not made in mill. "Woolen. "Worsted. Cotton. Pounds. Cost. ; Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 60, 533 $:5, 991 1 9, 619, 277 $493, 492 36,993,712 $4, 198, 527 4, 982, 919 $3,000,984 2, 560, 619 $2, 540, 667 23,990,406 $5,239,928 1 7,500 500 104, 782 1,454,296 62, 500 20, 815 178, 343 1, 845, 162 700 50 12, 536 218, 232 4,063 1,957 23, 498 166, 162 ?, 5,050 2,536 1, 514, 150 252, 000 67, 000 140, 836 116, 212 10, 610 1, 066, 336 552, 966 20, 050 3, 990, 832 2,440 1,560 782 282, 686 50, 400 12, 150 19, 960 26, 228 2,758 215, 263 144, 557 6,015 897, 984 524 3 / 161 293, 230 291 318, 917 4 198 50 40, 803 2,448 3,880 2,946 5 1 7 300 9,000 500 270 7,875 400 H ■"'i 6,000 3,000 H 10 1, 689, 664 1,756,360 12, 000 5, 370, 244 187, 039 245, 329 1,444 686, 522 11 640 386 6,500 3,895 17, 766 22, 508 1? 13 28, 000 4,200 397, 678 22, 033 117, 564 101, 874 775, 770 30 798, 912 25 14 15 16 1,000 128, 407 1, 626, 007 1, 341, 000 1, 281, 637 258, 560 71, 650 61, 536 17,256,155 1, 151, 121 693,019 103, 000 14, 100 338, 677 82, 172 12,260 70, 245 1,000 110 13, 471 192, 721 146, 814 154, 564 27, 009 7,268 7,484 1, 801, 784 153, 806 69, 465 10, 220 1,540 43,531 10, 901 1,302 8,906 100 415, 000 26, 988 1, 133, 300 968, 600 1, 041, 035 24, 300 125, 502 45, 010 10, 096, 883 1, 184, 149 769, 948 91,375 6,048 243, 994 216, 119 197,998 5,740 25, 924 11, 120 2,177,771 315,847 166, 340 17 IR 56 34 30, 000 900 136, 879 1,000 60,000 6,000 5,100 ■ 39,018 400 48,500 3,600 2,547 66, 381 105, 000 7,967 78, 330 150, 160 8,828 19 1,146 365 805,700 40, 374 38, 512 3,230 21 300 210 ?3 24 0,956 24, 537 1,169 9,797 8,304,722 426, 369 4,459,896 180, 000 2, 652, 674 142, 500 1, 012, 249 261, 965 856, 708 284, 733 25 ?6 27 ■^R 24,632 320,924 22, 940 18, 949 41, 078 250 4,987 80, 927 4,805 3,873 26, 244 60 9» 10,000 12,500 .W 100 30 H\ 31 33 34 104 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TERRITORIES. MATERIALS USED— Continued. Yarns not made in mill— Continued. Mohair. Sillc. Spun silk. Jute. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. I TliPi TTnited States 324, 181 $297, 995 120,571 $632, 545 69,358 $281, 211 125, 327 $13, 181 n ^ ^ rjalifomia 955 2,445 1, 099 3,105 13, 238 98, 141 4,179 16,246 25, 000 1,750 fi 7 8 Tllinma - <) 129 555 m 11 I") 3,384 5,565 IS 11 23, 000 23, 80O 16,989 118, 221 9,285 62, 628 7,207 609 ifi 1H i;6o3 500 6,225 8,844 4,100 44,910 341 1,109 2,268 1,660 12,230 10, 520 ^0 91 35,000 35, 500 500 70 Ohio 3,000 300 1,1 10 42,966 39, 111 57 248,842 104, 875 95 237, 521 25, 260 207, 043 27,448 25, 658 23,224 108,362 64, 000 89, 620 10,452 *>(> 07 *>R Texas 9q Utah - . SO SI ^9 "West Vireinia .... SS 400 4,000 M TEXTILES—WOOL. 105 AND TEERITOEIES: 1890— Continued. MATERIALS USED— continned. Yams not made in mill — ' Continued. Oil. Soap. Chemicals and dye- stufft. Euel. Eent of power and heat. All other materials. Total cost. $1,711,189 Coal. Wood. Linen. Pounds. Cost. Gallons.' Cost. Pounds. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. 2,529 $895 2, 439, 573 $773,839 18, 572, 984 $614,997 $3, 213, 939 $1, 328. 208 $182, 961 $108, 669 $2, 230, 554 1 152 560 30, 792 161, 970 18, 350 2,858 21, 964 37, 800 11, 225 37, 854 139,411 6,615 581, 284 11,341 14, 608 7,722 14,969 123. 790 104, 318 96, 839 3,792 32, 608 14,712 733, 675 123, 203 19, 594 2,560 5,041 37, 735 18,881 8,451 25,520 490 53 165 13, 305 53, 784 1,144 804 7,174 11,308 3,881 8,702 42, 941 2,535 204, 816 4,131 4,098 2,263 4,060 42, 994 35, 183 28, 125 1,091 10, 599 4,550 198, 558 49,425 4,737 738 2,221 13,628 6,130 2,192 9,382 132 675 50 28, 881 242,519 9,071 1,844 28,417 102, 930 21, 202 62, 852 221, 643 10, 733 998, 468 11, 006 9,238 13, 400 8,315 240, 612 152, 295 114, 256 4,650 36, 143 27, 591 547, 970 175,573 14, 823 7,800 8,492 58,434 14,487 7,273 29,692 2,705 105 200 39, 586 145, 010 2,410 1,255 20, 608 37, 828 6,432 24,403 123, 910 8,331 504, 361 14, 207 7,462 13. 455 8,862 103, 285 69, 126 57, 784 1,900 16, 683 5,759 274,431 135,437 14, 850 3,128 5,048 35, 223 4,693 4,355 19, 813 1,491 105 » 5,300 905, 306 940, 640 87,011 17, 479 349, 048 831, 132 234, 510 105, 163 1. 280, 993 24,898 5, 168, 346 265, 551 222, 180 84, 700 84,950 1,483,349 1, 075, 836 680, 957 49, 500 345, 027 165, 209 2, 140, 597 771, 394 44, 503 101,750 99, 150 606, 256 110, 830 76, 915 231, 185 3,300 110 19, 847 36,934 5,231 415 11,206 19, 369 6,081 2,867 44,317 937 170, 237 7,980 5,689 4,277 1,877 41, 478 34, 568 36,077 1,250 8,906 6,617 89, 804 30, 286 1,272 2,060 2,893 18, 756 2,636 2,107 8,865 80 200 25,121 119, 468 2,410 50 20 7,679 187,494 20, 512 2,695 5,237 2,744 5,786 91, 553 88, 401 25,440 788, 790 2,682 19, 025 16, 000 6,928 136, 157 48,643 66, 205 1,952 5,373 7,000 522, 262 116, 287 1,417 1,918 11,930 38, 817 4,827 728 6,812 242 ^ 14, 465 25, 544 If 100 25 1,550 6 8 1,256 50 510 3,519 599 35,758 90 24,699 7,190 1,885 12,706 1,070 17, 756 7 20, 656 37, 318 3,913 23, 804 88, 152 8,241 479, 662 7,017 5. ,577 750 7,792 85, 529 69, 126 55,861 400 15,673 380 100 8 g in 300 4,598 n 26, 744 290 1,642 11 16' 17 280 3,300 2,426 3,308 18 19' '0 500 330 1,903 1,500 990 5,759 1,339 14, 204 2,127 3 10 4,320 785 220 3,801 21 9'> 535 260 43,814 17, 396 370 9S ?1 1,929 540 273, 082 121, 233 13, 523 3,125 5,038 30, 903 3,908 4,135 16, 212 1,491 35 97 ■'R 450 1,310 9q ^0 SI 0,1 937 100 SS ^^A 106 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TEEBITOEIES. PRODUCTS. Aggregate value. All wool woven goods. Total. Cloths, doeskins, oassimeres, cheviots, indigo flannels, and hroadcloths for men's wear. Overcoatings, cloakings, and kerseys for both men's and women's wear. Carriage cloths of all weights. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 1 The XTnited States $133, 577, 977 95, 807, 636 $61, 205, 385 23, 008, 903 $21, 648, 649 4,020,612 $4, 695, 723 1, 282,921 $626,791 •> 17, 150 38, 360 1,325,033 9, 082, 493 482, 022 173, 245 1, 299, 506 2, 989, 182 695, 218 2, 351, 117 7,521,317 579, 516 35, 771, 161 844, 052 539, 995 924, 185 548,467 8, 004, 264 6, 652, 166 5, 188, 020 308, 946 1, 513, 302 614, 932 29,878,010 9, 884, 945 1, 216, 419 359, 230 338, 534 2, 723, 683 609, 809. 328,800 1, 669, 944 104,364 T 700 1, 366, 661 6, 342, 270 827,612 400 716, 676 3, 333, 980 310, 662 4 California 143, 102 1, 624, 825 263,412 131, 745 1,527,176 263, 412 'i 499, 466 622, Oil 766, 938 255,082 6 7 Georffia R Illinois ; 1, 646, 506 3, 714, 040 1, 176, 626 29, 650 8, 219, 000 579, 883 35,040,073 881, 329 681, 490 9,600 656, 739 8, 806, 591 1, 826, 871 3, 868, 113 117, 550 1, 704, 027 117, 288 10, 325, 818 3, 502, 424 109, 400 1,068,636 1,738,664 669, 792 24, 315 4, 061, 092 572, 166 17, 332, 989 630, 626 464, 660 4,900 200, 960 3,287,023 1,887,890 2,654,228 58, 570 863, 864 123, 938 4, 265, 656 4,192,508 46, 085 999,959 450, 718 133, 770 2,600 1,664,838 538, 176 6, 164, 897 715. 146 7,675 6,000 6,170 1, 332, 066 1, 459, 695 1,562,702 60, 650 360, 805 41, 809 1,158,019 3, 142, 852 83, 650 741, 248 368, 981 121,389 2,060 1,022,606 667, 200 6,668,386 550, 164 6,150 3,000 4,518 834, 236 1,503,267 1,361,563 38, 300 238, 769 79, 912 772, 149 3,732,008 34, 560 156, 000 129, 500 (| 89, 170 1,290 115,419 1,290 in Iowa 11 Kentucky 1? 942,275 600 1,351,669 6,000 4,000 1, 101, 946 450 1, 446, 019 3,400 3,000 13 14 152, 173 106,492 15 16 17 18 630 760 10 75, 619 5,984 126, 807 24, 919 7,232 103, 616 •?n 139, 080 171, 098 ?1 New York w 11,250 27, 750 8,700 26, 000 0^ Onio ?4 w Pennsylvania 438,853 321, 672 630, 514 450, 000 '6 Kb ode Island '7 Tennessee ■>8 Texas 29 Utah 577, 536 1, 379, 555 477, 382 479, 876 1, 695, 381 247, 760 i97, 260 648, 642 382, 294 200, 160 1, 278, 267 98, 802 23,381 41, 479 859, 450 104,128. 566,730 1,200 30, sis 44,166 318,449 56, 377 635, 645 400 W "Vermont 143, 892 41,625 89, 926 27, 800 11 Virginia S?, "West Virginia 33 3,000 2,400 34 AH other states TEXTILES— WOOL. 107 AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. PRODUCTS— continued. All wool -woven goods — Continued. Dress goods, sackings, tricots, ladies' clotli, broad- cloth, and all other goods for women's wear. Flannels. Blankets. Horse blankets. Carriage robes. Woven shawls, wool or worsted. Square yards. Value. Square) yards. Valne. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 24,608,977 $8,769,267 32, 762, 273 .$10,468,567 4, 666, 057 $2, 532, 324 666,625 $357, 411 257, 298 $145, 019 4,633,970 $1, 971, 664 1 9 700 305, 444 400 213,900 3 918, 105 1. 806, 834 370, 931 362, 812 4 1, 644, 207 566, 949 5 64,200 47, 250 6 7 63,496 2, 686, 098 752, 656 3,800 2,677,365 35, 068 10, 648, 599 101, 691 168, 372 26,785 970, 098 308, 744 1,420 807, 896 10, 906 3,244,724 48, 367 62,474 185, 851 467, 754 288, 910 23, 160 27, 065 5,550 32, 515 58, 192 501, 443 3,600 273, 949 316, 119 500 49,600 20, 950 413, 418 21, 798 1,045,031 73,659 274, 566 138, 369 20, 835 16, 211 3,200 37,282 28, 175 392,926 1,900 124, 476 161, 503 330 26, 385 9,950 264,479 16,492 441,082 684 457 240, 516 97, 087 8 20, 300 9,600 9 Ifl 11 2, 442, 244 841,419 185, 149 500 1,319 900 125,660 400 1,364 360 11, 280 4,324 288, 804 141, 131 12 1S 16, 379, 781 400 6, 607, 708 160 17, 060 10,312 392, 070 210, 702 14 15 16 17 275, 090 4, 240, 311 1,112 1,501,870 24,700 610, 016 49, 056 3, 986, 916 ' 10,000 11, 300 70, 621 1, 302, 253 463 910, 300 6,620 203, 379 24,761 828, 273 3,500 3,860 900 15,314 600 5,176 18 2, 828, 262 958, 936 1<» 90, 000 300 76, 000 213 130, 500 590, 934 130, 500 211, 251 '0 1,500 900 45, 000 40, 000 21 6,818 3,072 135, 000 63, 000 150, 000 75, 000 220 4,620 2,669,517 165 2,773 926,261 23 837,465 28, 000 556, 713 7,000 273,457 91, 614 17, 060 9,160 25 96 14,450 7,675 97 W 297, 411 648,184 25, 160 340, 218 734,356 244, 520 99, 501 246, 650 8,760 128,643 308, 325 97,502 244, 391 126,000 51, 167 35, 530 87, 860 2,040 68, 714 51,000 27, 285 16, 140 88, 340 900 12, 353 8,227 ?9 420, 000 216, 800 30 31 S9 304, 436 243,557 33 34 108 MANUFAGTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 5. -WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TEEEITOEIES. PRODUCTS— continued . Union or cotton mixed woven goods. Total. Unions, tweeds, cheviots, oa«si- meres, and other goods for men's wear. Overcoatings and cloakings. Sackings, tricots, and dress goods for women's wear. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value, 1 TheTJnited States 6i, 385, 108 $23,009,976 20,023,283 $12, 103, 503 3, 528, 942 $2,497,092 9, 892, 377 $2, 532, 598 •> 3 5,850 1, 764, 649 6, 103, 276 1,080,000 13, 774 578 411, 048 2,110 601, 032 3, 695, 312 162, 000 3,673 500 142, 066 4 California 74, 670 4,189,326 1, 080, 000 13,774 61, 583 2, 999, 552 162, 000 3,673 H 145, 822 166, 369 1, 373, 334 421,501 fi 7 R lUinoisi q Indiana 1,500 1,700 in 11 1'' Maine 3, 842, 467 300 12, 655, 898 1,050 1, 385, 243 200 5, 278, 427 360 401, 869 300 3, 605, 066 266, 281 200 2, 719, 290 160, 425 101, 533 2, 790, 566 800,234 n N 691, 257 699, 671 4, 833, 284 1,097,540 I'i Ifi 17 2,250 521, 174 5,118,629 3, 671, 300 3, 047, 057 1,125 2,700 483,884 11, 101, 112 1,353,272 28, 265 338,000 171,432 2, 072, 547 88,410 94, 200 420,861 450 99,497 1,888,932 2, 178, 644 1,422,239 330 1,754 161,040 3,061,144 1, 292, 383 6,063 181, 000 64, 569 1,199,453 66, 280 28, 780 136,495 1R 520, 684 860, 625 1, 885, 600 401, 782 99, 302 549, 798 1, 103, 397 313, 506 It 557, 300 1, 566, 700 20, 000 438, 000 895, 247 18, 000 346, 083 92, 202 'n '1 304, 625 69, 350 99 "n Ohio 700 21,809 3,879,195 1, 363, 272 254 29, 302 1, 353, 743 1, 292, 383 "^A •"i 186, 778 103, 600 97,238 20, 674 ?fi 97 ■>« Texas 240, 000 140, 000 ^q 'in 1, 120, 137 83, 310 289,364 832,431 64,220 240 110,648 201, 660 174, 772 15, 750 6,250 11 S' 1^ 131, 497 26, 847 M All other states 1 TEXTILES— WOOL. 109 AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. PRODUCTS — continued . TTnion or cotton mixed woven goods — Continued. Grooda woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair. Flannels and linseya. Blankets. Horse blankets. Total. Cassimeres, doeskins, coat- ings, suitings, and other goods for men's wear. Overcoatings and cloakings. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 11,621,679 $3,314,733 4, 804, 390 $1, 390, 660 4, 514, 437 $1, 171, 390 Ill, 027, 431 $37,199,986 27, 882, 734 $13, 273, 684 4, 814, 989 $3, 387, 061 1 22, 500 51, 200 13, 500 4,654,472 10, 800 16, 000 7,425 1, 548, 614 9 3,450 1,547,187 800, 000 1,150 448, 385 67,500 2,400 121, 030 960 84, 080 3 11,762 94,794 6,984 40, 390 If 880, 717 513,786 95, 847 98, 581 6 500, 002 502, 778 2, 691, 917 54, 335 6, 983, 577 5, 445, 247 149, 372 178, 550 694, 100 28, 378 2,084,492 1,862,348 7 578 153, 872 500 61, 662 422, 159 1, 665, 944 12, 000 1,447,843 1, 047, 104 105, 500 330, 994 8,745 529, 968 577, 138 H 255, 676 78, 804 9 10 11 38, 038 13,089 390, 937 132, 122 60, 632 21, 984 97, 555 89,809 12 13 2,772,570 1,050 738,830 360 669, 871 101, 596 83, 850 33,600 29, 852, 055 20, 050 10, 330, 678 9,465 3, 909, 070 3,091,971 1, 663, 919 1,529,907 14 15 16 2,260 490 2, 062, 057 450 195 510,727 1, 672, 167 183, 830 6, 334, 944 2, 107, 130 1, 056, 643 644,027 434, 005 451. 995 36,406,275 4, 751, 539 3, 523, 455 360, 000 86, 479 1, 987, 060 207, 205 27, 344 864, 760 50,835 2,525,856 1,089,596 419, 361 146,440 249, 652 310, 103 10, 248, 727 2,374,404 995,467 126, 000 33, 986 764, 876 69, 065 9,796 17 1R 1, 292, 664 298, 205 1, 594, 726 558, 300 19, 200 225, 927 1,600 135, 144 10, 618, 421 3, 667, 498 1,141,100 943, 483 391, 504 10, 450 83, 160 1,100 153,743 3, 990, 106 1,913,511 300, 650 623, 885 959,050 376,405 312, 000 45 399, 800 391,422 183, 874 21,060 68 19 220, 000 180, 000 'O 1, 729, 000 1,125 911, 550 330 591, 650 109, 833 '1 '? 2,000 1,500 91 462, 075 1,441,354 131,738 140, 564 ''i 13, 117, 462 780, 169 2,379,085 662, 394 269,410 416, 873 359, 057 313, 483 25 2,225 542 26, 040 98, 000 1,600 5,521 41, 000 1,200 07 '8 169, 832 735, 000 4,500 93, 800 63,369 187, 000 1,610 28, 540 20, 147 488. 084 3,050 311 455 'fl 30 600 450 24, 575 11, 520 3, 375 ! 1. 860 SI SO 33 1,700 840 34 no MANUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TEBBITOBIBB. PRODUCTS— continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair — Continued. Satinets. "Wool-flUing dress goods and repellents. Flannels and shirtings. Blankets. Square yards. Talue. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 1 The United States 18,619,181 $4,287,778 17,150,803 $4, 184, 262 16,729,685 $4,782,829 8, 703, 822 $2,546,338 2 3 Arkansas 1,500 600 1,000 13, 500 55,863 300 7,425 15,416 4 California 5 1, 078, 760 289, 466 1,694,451 428, 119 948, 834 203, 246 fi 7 8 Illinois 1,500 3,111 725 2,609 600 315, 909 300 165, 675 73,419 8,448 9.060 370 1, 052, 103 70, 000 5,748 4,758 200 378, 190 9 10 Iowa 11 Kentucky ' 12 Maine 6,600 3,950 2, 687, 510 679, 281 554, 000 133,480 13 14 15,996,900 2,600 3,538,217 1,690 1, 729, 076 286, 748 2, 569, 569 2,100 979, 430 720 3, 982, 561 14, 350 903, 925 6,805 15 If 17 1 1 IS Missouri 480 264,000 440 27, 720 6,850 1, 083, 680 441, 100 278, 200 19, 200 13, 000 316, 851 1, 298, 722 1,950 384, 736 262, 170 44,100 10, 000 14, 820 156, 360 276, 150 It 1,949,076 148, 680 559. 334 54, 500 819, 577 210, 783 ?0 21 NewTork". 300 27, 850 8,985 200 9,790 6.368 312, .538 140, 737 9,9 9.^ OMo 56, 230 19, 512 94 Oregon '>S 36, 385 440, 872 18, 082 99, 151 8,874,413 106, 296 2, 142, 327 33, 259 10, 270, 155 2, 708, 121 26 Kiiode Island 27 Tennessee 52, 500 30, 000 2,850 2,125 28 Texas 29 Utah 23, 635 751,238 49, 225 3,375 9,454 165, 761 14, 150 1,350 30 747, 738 287,660' 31 22, 215 9,180 8,600 1,960 32 1,400 980 1,301 694 33 Wisconsin 34 200 130 200 110 1,300 600 TEXTILES— WOOL. Ill AND TEREITORIES: 1890— Continued. PRODUCTS— continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, -weft partly or wholly of wool or hair— Continued . Upholstery goods and sundries — woolen. All worsted woven goods. Jeans, kerseys, and linseys. Total. Coatings, serges, and suitings for men's wear. Dress goods, eaasinieres, serges, and other goods for women's wear. Square yards. Value. Value. Square yards. Value. $2, 626, 174 Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 17, 126, 217 $4, 738, 034 $133, 600 3, 048, 248 2,030,928 $2, 245, 287 1,017,320 $380,887 1 22, 500 48, 700 10, 800 15, 100 2 4 S 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 65, 000 254, 382 409, 973 253. 692 409, 513 690 460 600, 002 5,100 698, 605 33, 276 5. 535, 564 375 149, 372 2,025 189, 074 14, 875 1,554,334 600 900 1,350 900 1,350 960 1,000 480 250 619, 312 795, 616 619, 312 795,616 16 1, 672, 167 176, 600 864, 760 48, 445 17 18 146, 561 163, 060 225, 438 92, 700 146, 561 57, 050 225,438 19 70, 000 59, 050 354, 145 40, 000 22, 430 207, 784 40, 000 ^ no o^ 24 5, 03S, 769 60, 000 2, 327, 006 360, 000 42, 007 754, 884 15, 000 662, 692 126, 000 21, 482 1,-160,-630 703, 413 769,227 331,870 . - 900,000 > 700,000 53,413 ■ 71,870 260,630 1 69,227 650, 000 260, 000 i '>5 28, 600 26 OR 1 30 111, 190 34,795 2,952 ^1 1 8, 7l;i 34 1 1 : 112 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 5.— WOOLEN MILLS, BY STATES STATES AND TEEKITOBIES. PEODUCTS— continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of worsted. Total. Cassimeres, doeskins, coat- ings, suitings, and other goods for men's wear. Worsted filling dress goods, delaines, cashmeres, serges and other stuffs for women's wear. Linings, Italian cloths, and lastings. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 1 The United States 5, 268, 142 $2, 000, 031 568, 597 $563, 225 3, 531, 356 $990,904 1, 168, 189 $445, 902 Alabama ■9 ^ Arkansas 4 California 5 23, 000 5,250 23, 000 5,250 fi Delaware 7 8 Illinois q Indiana 14,784 3,929 14,784 3, 9*29 in Iowa 11 Ifl Maine 396, 064 134, 322 395, 064 134, 322 11 Maryland ■- Id 1,328,984 753, 501 303,537 304, 096 330, 106 153,804 695, 341 295, 601 15 IR 17 IR MissoTiri ", 1") New Hampshire ^0 ■ai New York , ■99 North Carolina •>H Ohio fA Pennsylvania 831, 250 2. 617, 600 258,300 766, 200 150,000 57, 600 80, 000 too, 600 641,250 2, 560, 000 171,500 665, 600 40, 000 6,800 ■'J 'R Texas ?fl Utah 30 57.400 ; 7S. .5M 57, 460 78, 529 'il S? ^3 ■"R 1,535 2,000 7,000 5,000 800 500 3Q, 7,000 - 700 3t 160 2,875 375 80 8 ^'t 1 1 10,000; fly nets, $27,200; ginghams, $63,750; listings, $2,000; pickings, $69,250 ; scouring wool, $32,500; stockinets, $460; woolen batts, $3,482; -woolen silk yam, 175^000: misoellaneona. S22.714. 175,000; miscellaneous, $22,714. 116 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tabm 6.-^W0ESTED mills, The United States Connecticut Massachuaetts New Hampshire !N"e w Jersey !N"ewyork Pennsylvania Khode Island All other states (&) . . . . Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Value of hired property- $4, 109, 526 800, 100 75, 000 245, 000 1, 794, 700 1, 161, 726 33, 000 Direct investment. Aggregate- $68, 085, 116 5, 263, 201 21, 204, 909 4, 295, 688 1, 305, 271 5, 615, 875 13, 929, 489 14, 949, 166 1, 521, 517 Value of plant. Total. $27, 890, 810 1, 905, 153 8, 728, 179 1, 125, 440 653,472 i 2, 085, 099 5, 432, 681 7, 240, 767 720, 019 Land. Buildings. 2, 842, 769 $7, 962, 865 i 239, 666 1, 007, 575 69, 000 38, 500 247, 509 522,500 057, 519 60, 500 670, 400 2, 775, 173 197, 000 181, 500 435, 968 1, 290, 684 2. 273, 203 188, 937 Machinery, tools, and imple- ments. $17, 085, 176 1, 095, 087 4, 945, 431 859, 440 433, 472 1, 351, 622 3, 619, 497 ■1,310,045 470, 582 Live assets. Total. $40, 194, 306 358, 048 476, 730 170,248 651, 799 530, 776 496, 808 708, 399 801, 498 Eaw materials. $10, 844, 736 583. 981 3, 204, 626 603, 278 210, 661 980, 056 2, 393, 752 2, 677, 811 190, 571 StocJi: in process and ^niahed products on hand. $15, 606, 658 975,544 5,371,979 1, 262, 304 174, 375 1, 675, 819 2, 881, 667 2, 959, 159 . 315, 811 Cash, bills and accounts receivable, and all sundries not else- where re- ported. $13,742,912 1,798,523 3, 900, 125 1,314,606 266, 763 874, 901 3, 221, 389 2, 071, 429 295, 116 The TJnited States . Connecticut HassachuBetts . . . New Hampshire. New Jersey New York Pennsylvania Bhbde^Island All other states .. MACHINERY— continued. Spindles. Woolen. 29, 100 38, 262 2,416 23, 827 61, 035 53,080 4,460 Worsted. 479, 675 68, 225 Cotton. 151, 21, 17, 40, 104, 131, 4, 31, 615 21, 920 Total numherl of {>ower ooms. Power looms. 19, 044 Broad looms on woolen goods. 51' 301 12 50 194 498 160 100 Broad looms on worsted goods. 7,445 1,633 38 20 805 1,294 3,037 142 Narrow looms on woolen goods. 5 291 1 Narrow looms on worsted goods. 9,936 100 4,654 2,024 11 708 1,188 1,171 180 Hand looms. Knit- ting ma- chines. 32 MATERIALS USED. Total cost. $50, 706, 769 2, 814, 186 14, 259, 116 2, 080, 295 1, 417, 167 3, 470, 580 11,539,880 13,932,912 1, 192, 633 Foreign wool in condi- tion purchased. Pounds. 37, 869, 023 $10,591,129 877, 903 16, 197, 664 4, 191, 453 '465, 481 1, 298, 049 6, 632, 146 7, 406, 327 800, 000 Cost. 354, 389 4, 123, 616 1, 109, 490 182, 674 440, 894 1, 604, 230 2, 600, 836 175, 000 MATERIALS USED— continued. Yams not made in mill. The United States . Connecticut Massachusetts -. New Hampshire . New Jersey New York.. Pennsylvania £hode Island All other states . . Woolen. Pounds. Cost. 903, 174 19, 078 "97,' 480 376, 116 410, 500 $355, 592 16, 060 '63,',%2' 144, 020 133, 150 Worsted. Pounds. 1, 550, 697 2, 711, 220 151, 200 219, 230 683, 885 2,871,376 3, 275, 906 87, 750 Cost. $11, 814, 625 1,735,603 2, 936, 931 138, 080 254, 999 647,760 2, 683, 644 3, 308, 920 109, 688 Pounds. 9, 454, 874 328, 500 2, 578, 066 1, 398, 758 20, 000 720, 645 3, 462, 691 419, 014 527. 200 Cost. 2, 441, 972 70, 500 833,. 947 280, 634 4,000 196, 265 800, 421 136, 650 119, 555 Mohair. 126 71, 990 Cost. $212, 364 146 97, 566 40, 000 114, 345 5,610 6,000 Silk. Pounds. 46, 138 4,285 2,218 92,746 ! 15, 916 (1 1, 514 9,048 11,846 17, 227 Cost. $344, 656 44, 346 18, 480 2,271 64, 709 71, 900 142, 850 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. For detailed information see Table 12. TEXTILES— WOOL. 117 BY STATES: 1890. MISCELLAHEOU8 EXPENSES. Total. $i, 917, 760 405, 369 1.491,042 129, 869 91, 406 342, 073 975, 930 1, 337, 472 144, 599 Bent paid for tenancy. $296, 237 78, 506 4, 15, 127, 07, Taxes. $267, 713 16, 784 121, 349 22, 575 2,195 20,751 23,763 57, 833 3,463 Insurance. $260, 386 26, 262 66, 612 13,943 4,869 13, 457 67, 678 56, 461 11, 113 Kepairs, ordinarj', of buildings and macliinery. $808, 820 22, 480 334, 243 1,000 8,850 61, 365 180, 664 176,818 24, 410 Interest paid ou cash used in the business. $1, 595, 813 149, 280 454, 924 72, 031 38, 761 162, 738 181, 063 517, 819 19, 197 Sundries not elsewhere reported. $1, 698, 792 191, 573 435, 408 20, 320 31, 831 67, 942 405, 621 461, 681 84, 416 AVBBAGE NUMBEB OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL VVAOES. (a) Employes. 43, 593 2,261 12,021 1,963 954 3,953 9,453 11, 757 1,231 $13, 880, 183 875, 372 4. 656, 997 678, 552 284, 102 1, 481, 194 3, 350, 113 4, 263, 968 389, 885 MACHINERY Cards. (Sets.) 963 238 29 21 96 207 247 19 Combing machines. Foreign. 7 177 25 21 36 141 128 9 Ameri- can. MATERIALS USED— Continued. Domestic wool in con- dition purchased. Pounds. 59, S32, 451 492, 211 13, 981, 862 1, 080, 527 2,655,886 5, 283, 237 15, 639, 877 Id, 534, 803 1, 164, 048 Cost. $17, 689, 158 222, 4, 092, 275, 821, 1, 584, 4, 606, 5, 793, 292, Total for- eign and domestic ■wool in scoured pounds. 54, 989, 746 796, 054 860, 091 020, 166 704, 433 107, 493 434,400 821, 280 245, 829 Shoddy. Pounds. 2, 608, 831 69, 000 398, 288 163, 600 100, 000 9,497 1,425,785 364, 661 78, 000 Cost. $347, 006 10, 860 74, 743 20, 788 5,000 1,788 149, 697 72, 430 11, 700 "Waste and wool noils. Pounds. 1, 301, 444 132, 763 15, 000 128, 841 446, 227 652, 767 9,750 Cost. $466, 648 3,054 28,082 5,000 24,502 123, 898 278, 992 3,120 Camel's hair and noils. Founds. 4, 411, 543 $672, 392, 3, 321, 16, 565, 266, 132, HI, Cost. 66 456, 559 2,700 116, 250 49, 699 33, 798 13, 320 Mohair and noils. Pounds. 2, 038, 732 220, 000 703, 506 6,763 399, 153 109, 310 600, 000 Cost. 88, 000 294,819 3,191 167, 503 43, 356 228, 000 All other animal hair. Pounds. 468, 616 12, 961 600, 000 Cost. $120, 686 28, 990 697 90, 000 Kaw cotton. Pounds. 150, 50, 1, 367, 1. 341, 97, Cost. $438, 637 1,150 96, 998 18, 044 6,500 144, 262 160, 958 10,725 MATERIALS USED— continued. Yarns not made in mill — Continued. Spun silk. Pounds. Cost 19, 427 100 14, 687 1,297 $127, 775 857 26, 386 400 00, 181 9,951 Linen. Pounds. Cost 100, 350 $50, 473 50, 473 Oil. Gallons. Cost. 664, 750 26, 363 154, 015 11, 435 20, 779 29, 478 205, 983 193, 717 22, 980 $258, 476 14,124 62, 694 4,679 8,489 12, 082 79, 949 69, 371 7,088 Soap. Pounds. 642, 719 998, 609 911, 969 162, 167 684, 068 938, 891 501, 478 I 756, 230 ] Cost. $333, 238 20, 214 90, 689 20, 482 6,711 38, 958 68, 055 68, 772 20, 407 Chemicals and dyestuffs. $1, 445, 965 116, 394, 68, 13, 177, 200, 417, 68, Total cost. $1, 048, 245 18, 62, 165, 279, 31, Coal. Cost. Wood. Cost. 026. 320 .$21, 925 61, 390 338, 133 84,944 18, 905 62, 249 165, 491 274, 412 20, 796 2,123 i 407 I 3,275 j 5,000 11, 120 Eent of power and heat. Cost. $62, 427 24, 214 7,966 600 2,648 14, 380 12, 620 All other materials. Cost. $1, 000, 587 68, 290 243,663 55, 231 17, 633 46, 598 244,190 363, 837 21,145 b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments!, are distributed as follows : Kentucky, 2 ; Maine, 1 ; Ohio, 1 ; Wisconsin, 1. 118 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tabm 6.— worsted mills, STATES. PKODDCTS. Aggregate value. All worsted woven goods. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft paitly or wholly of worsted. Total. Coatings, serges, and suitings for men's wear. Dress goods, cassi- meres, serges, and other tj„„«„™ goods for women's Buntings, wear. Total. Square yards. Value. Square .yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 1 Square yards. Value. 1 The United States . Connecticut $79, 194, 652 26, 459, 038 $23, 801, 659 15, 560, 159 f20, 141, 165 10, 331, 999 $3,524,511 566, 880 $135, 983 72, 753, 678 $21, 592, 053 ■9 4,651,402 21, 933, 775 2, 764, 976 2, 058, 662 5,763,102 17, 861, 776 22, 319. 684 1, 841, 275 2, 660, 351 7, 176, 803 4, 015, 498 5, 909, 348 2, 660, 351 3, 616, 852 4, 015, 498 4, 654, 837 139,500 34,755,183 13, 772, 125 225, 000 2, 691, 179 8, 327, 386 10,624,880 2,218,425 125, 000 6,778,866 2, 403, 12e 150, 000 1, 026, 716 4, 690, 864 5,723,737 693, 750 s 2, 993, 071 1, 118, 528 1 566,880 135,983 4 New Hampshire <^ 171, 428 1, 722, 896 , 2, 106, 712 12, 621, 848 239, 999 1, 834, 785 1, 906, 731 9, 895, 298 171,428 1, 722, 896 1,391,334 5, 997, 298 239, 999 1, 834, 785 1, 675, 960 7,820,096 fi New York 7 714, 378 6, 624, 550 330, 781 2, 075, 202 R 9 All other states 1 STATES. PRODUCTS — continued. • All wool woven goods — Continued. Cloths, doeskins, cas- simeres, cheviots, in- digo flannels, and broadcloths for men's wear. Overcoatings, oloakings, and ker- seys for both men's and women's wear. Dress goods,3ack- ings, tricots, la- dies' cloth, broad- cloth, and other goods for women's wear. Flannels. Blankets. Horse blankets. Carriage robes. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 10 The ITnitert States . Connecticut 2, 258, 947 $2,067,982 806, 155 $1,050,292 628, 413 $245, 220 17, 182 $2, 662 356, 000 } 141, 250 97, 548 $62, 258 411, 303 $422, 835 11 92,500 5,650 178,000 5,651 1' 181,088 208, 062 607 349 13, 000 780 147, 589 20, 692 IS New Hampshire 14 113,334 98, 732 276, 423 219, 516 136, 001 148, 241 325, 296 257, 103 It 815, 589 406, 820 747, 219 259, 694 853, 007 7,266 620, 540 3,336 241, 535 16 Fennsylvania 4,182 1,882 356, 000 141, 250 97,548 52, 258 17 855, 450 4,454 259, 260 4,501 397, 642 18 1 PRODUCTS — continued. 1 Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair — Continued. Felt cloth. Partly manufactured products for sale. STATES. Overcoatii cloakir ga aud gs. i "Wool-filling dress goods and repellents. Flannels and shi ings. rt- e. 1 Blankets. Total. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. ! Square yards. XnXa $6,1 Square yards. Value, i Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. 19 The Unitert States . 863, 009 $808, 614 506, 000 $89, 750 3:1, 390 04! 2,225,707 $522,328 1,009 $1, 524 36, 052, 126 1 $23,529,514 ^0 1 1 1 1,009 1,524 209, 030 13, 827, 404 918,412 1, 791, 933 1, 582, 981 10,956,323 6,368,258 397. 7R5 24,851 7,803,844 309,206 1,532,662 846,880 7,841,563 4,918,987 •^1 306. 348 296, 426 1 ')') ''3 ''1 *"! 508, 601 48, 000 440, 188 72, 000 505, 006 j 89, 7,50 ! 33, 390 6,104 1, 587, 360 369, 308 **fi 07 1 " 1 1 638. 347 153, 620 j ■ $1,179. s Includes items as follows: custom work, $3,514; fire lioae. $225,000; oil press cloth, $il, 500; scouring wool, $4, 292 ; shorts, $806 ; sweepings, burs, and sprini^s, TEXTILES— WOOL. 119 BY STATES: 1890— Continued. PRODUCTS -continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of worsted— Continued. Upholstery goods and sundries— worsted. All wool woven goods. Cassimeres, doeskins, coatings, suitings, and other goods for men's wear. ■Worsted filling, dress goods, delaines, cas- simeres, serges, and other stuffs for women's wear. Linings. Italian cloths, and last- in gs. Total value. "Worsted or mohair goods, tapestry, plush, terry, and rep. Braids and braiding. Webbings, gor- ings, elastic fabrics, bind- ings, fringes, and other sun- dries. Total. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 6 Square yards. Value. "Running yards. Value. Eun ning yards Value. Square yards. Value. 10, 310, 203 $9, 349, 901 59, 026, 584 $11, 432, 534 ^3, 416, 891 $809, 618 $2, 019, 6C 1,096,293 $1, 108, 344 82, 430, 251 .$887, 022 161,800 $24,270 4, 800, 230 i $4, 109, 368 j 1 139, 500 273, 663 393, 600 125, 000 307, 605 256, 160 • 305, 000 266, 001 I 300,000 306, 000 92, 600 347, 934 178, 000 235, 634 ">. 31,654,829 13, 378, 525 225, 000 2,590,649 2,054,370 7,251,211 1, 872, 000 5, 764, 143 2, 146, 960 150, 000 875, 922 752, 041 1, 383, 468 360, OOC 2, 826, 691 707, 118 20, 085, 888 266, 001 3 4 113, 334 1, 043, 267 1, 777, 013 1,166,922 269, 260 136, 001 980, 488 1, 038, 365 1,143,838 397, 612 5 100, 530 5, 773, 016 3, 373, 669 256,225 150, 794 3, 876, 323 4, 340, 269 293, 750 119, 270 463, 699 530, 324 34.";, 342 4, 937, 240 16, 725, 373 40, 681, 760 95, 000 115, 372 410, 649 161, 800 24, 270 6 600, 000 62, 600 ! 523,267 1 60, 693 ' 213,333 338, 327 119, 675 345, 342 7 8 90, 200 40, 000 n PRODUCTS — continued . All wool woven goods— Continued. tTuion or cotton mixed woven goods. Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair. Shawls. Total. Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, and other goods for men's wear. Overcoatings and cloakings. Horse blankets. Total. Cassimeres, doeskins, coatings, suitings, and other goods, for men's wear. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 224, 682 $126, 869 1,937,774 $1, 294, 990 1,019,000 $617, 094 850, 186 $644, 019 68, 588 $33, 877 5, 517, 176 $2 569,617 1, 890, 070 $1, 142, 821 10 1 ' 11 934, 008- 70, 200 - 533, 534 52, 650 928, 800 70, 200 628,444 52, 650 6,108 6,090 364,493 365, 148 58, 145 68, 722 12 13 14 121, 680 16, 500 • 87, 802 si, 692 16, 450 28, 727 1,136,865 3, 329, 481 48, OOO 638, 347 729, 963 1, 249. 486 72, 000 153. 020 1,136,855 695, 070 729, 963 344, 136 I.") 912, 666 20, 000 672, 806 . 36, 000 844, 078 638, 929 68, 688 33, 877 1H 20, 000 36, 000 17 18 Partly manufactured products for sale — Continued. All other prod- ucts, (a) Woolen yam, wool or merino. ' 'Worsted yam. Cotton yarn. "Worsted stab- bing and tops. "Worsted noils. Waste. Shoddy and wool extract. Pounds. Value. 1 Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Value. 3,412,455 .91,221,008 24,763,501 *20,291,046 33,889 $6,777 360,101 $?7,67e 4,337,62 1 $1,433,050 3,130,693 $488,914 13,866 $1,043 $276,291 19 ' 209,030 1,358,797 24,851 272,981 1,529 41,500 20 743,845 253,156 286,795 58,492 9,776,455 605,256 1,354,837 1,026,000 7,402,656 4,140,512 6,712V844 250,714 1,377,707 681,495 6,624,265 4,392,510 251,621 298,V2'7 4*4, 764 i, 6*49, 88 48'6,46b 21 625 50,000 11,049 468 32,500 9,944 296,29 367,21 926,53 1,097,69 126,807 4 117,109 8 316,267 9 387,407 140,181 139,767 246,760 1,036,158 28,680 15,776 60,333 96,293 •& 225,000 8,262 24 2,355,454 60,000 839,721 36,000 13,866 1,043 25 33,839 6,777 ?« 27 120 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table TE—GAKPET MILLS (OTHEK^ The United States Massaohusette New Jersey New York PennsylTania AU otber states (b) Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Value of hired property. $1, 278, 150 7 6 15 142 3 2,700 70, 000 1,205,200 250 Direct investment: Aggregate. $38, 208, 842 8, 676, 924 724, 393 11,178,342 15, 129, 619 2, 499, 564 Value of plant. Total. $17, 875, 384 3, 589, 730 293, 921 5, 239, 437 7,466,300 785, 996 Buildings. Maehinery, tools, and impleinentB. $2, 884, 139 $5, 559, 458 596, 000 54, 100 1, 210, 500 978, 539 45, 000 1, 283, 100 119, 404 1, 653, 917 2, 180, 776 322, 261 $8, 931, 787 1, 710, 630 120, 417 2, 375, 020 4, 306, 985 418, 735 Lire assets. Total. $20, 833, 458 5, 087,, 194 430,472 5, 938, 90S 7, 663, 319 1, 713, 568 Raw mate- rials. $G, 754, 041 1, 960, 845 57, 2S3 2, 389, 665 1, 624, 680 725, 698 Stock in process and finished products on hand. $S, 705, 766 1.038,603 116, 665 1, 838, 873 2. 230, 986 480,629 Cash, bills and accounts receivable, and all sun- dries not elsewhere reported. $8, 373, 661 2, 087, 746 256, 554 1, 714, 467 3, 807, 853 507, 241 MACHiNBKY—con tinned. Spindles. "Woolen. The United States Massachusetts New Jersey New "Fork Pennsylvania All other states 53, 046 8,078 1,820 18, 126 20, 242 4,780 Worsted. 151, 132 39, 256 1,024 78, 152 18, 976 13,724 Cotton. 1,872 '2,"868' Total num- ber of power looms. 8,638 1,160 207 1,912 4,821 448 Total number of looms on car- pets and rugs. Looms on carpets arid rugs. 10, 898 1,160 282 2,077 0,936 453 Ingrain handlooms. 627 4 Ingrain power looms. 4,214 311 12 357 3,236 299 Venetian hand looms. 157 157 Vejitetian power looms. 4 109' MATEBIAX8 USED. Total cost. The United States Massachusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania All other states $28, 644, 905 4, 731, 873 430, 917 8, 689, 413 13,648,371 1,244,331 Foreign wool in condition purchased. Pounds. 54, 742, 234 16, 470, 121 703, 927 17, 939, 286 14,681,759 5, 047, 142 Cost. 1, 422, 031 2, 244, 474 173, 056 3, 898, 321 2, 428, 166 678, 014 Domestic wool in condi- tion purchased. 2, 139, 332 40,086 1,500,000 447, 694 151, 553 Cost. $433, 766 7,614 300, 000 92, 912 33,380 Total foreign and domestic wool in scbiired pounds. 35, 726, 887 8, 579, 919 647, 086 13, 687, 763 9, 902, 903 3, 009, 217 Shoddy. Pouhds. 6,735 591, 777 Cost. $39, 295 38, 487 The United States Massachusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania All other states MATERIALS USED — Continued. Yarns not made in mill — Continued. Worsted. Pounds. 10, 555, 799 2, 316, 087 38, 542 626, 667 7, 488, 205 Cost. $4, 711, 249 1, 142, 740 16, 018 259, 106 8, 233, 823 59, 562 Cotton. Pounds. 1,474,465 114, 082 3, 742, 190 12, 035, 674 554, 007 Cost. $2, 712, 484 240, 731 20,324 .584, 101 1, 781, 245 86, 083 Mohair. Pounds. 182, 400 182, 400 Cost. $23, 712 28, 712 Jute. Pounds. Cost. 23, 670, 117 2, 485, 603 496, 337 12, 486, 875 7, 782, 879 418,423 $1, 696, 280 202, 438 37, 061 854, 675 557, 279 44,827 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. Eor detailed information see Table 12. TEXTILES— WOOL. 121 THAN BAG), BY STATES: 1890. ■ ■ ■■ — — ■ — — : — ^ — ■ MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. AVEEAGE HUMBEE OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) MACHINERY. Total. Rent paid for tenancy. Taxes. Insurance. Bepairs, ordinary, of buildings and mar chinery. Interest paid on cash used in the business. Sundries not elsewhere reported. Employ6s. Wages. Cards. (Sets.) Combing machines. IToreign. Ameri- can. $1, 819, 441 $108, 997 $168, 468 $125, 280 $275, 555 $349, 378 $791, 766 29, 121 $11, 633, 116 392 77 41 1 367, 164 30, 502 399, 322 820, 434 202, 019 ■ 69, 166 2,889 35,944 38, 293 22, 176 . 26, 175 3,669 29, 886 60, 802 4,748 107,752 18,456 37, 498 81, 652 30, 197 96, 658 1,447 93, 012 156, 564 1,697 67, 413 3.859 197; 582 379, 733 143, 176 5,144 585 8,954 12, 674 1,764 1,892,072 212, 554 3,345,165 5,509,805 673, 520 40 22 201 104 25 20 23 1 16 1 2 182 5,400 103,390 25 18 19 20 4 5 MACHINEKY ftonfim led. Looms on carpets and rugs — CoDtinued. Looms on woolen goods. ' Tapestry bru sels power looms. '" Body brussels power looms. Axminster power looms. Moquette power looms. Velvet power looms. Wilton power looms. Hug hard looms. Eug power looms. Broad looms. N arrow looms. Hand looms. l,49i 1,224 95 462 53 I 62 1,810 578 194 44 99 7 21£ 2( 94! 31< 539 i 4 107 I 487 87 72 1 13 94 14 457 8 40 1 105 219 1,485 1 30 .. 54 .. 110 q 17 6 400 18 -2 59 10 44 99 11 62 10 MATERIALS USED — Continued. Waste and wool noils. Camel's liair and noils. All other animal hair. Eaw cotton . Yams not made in mill. Poui Woolen. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Ids. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 860, 246 $146, 876 1, 001, 929 $140, 175 32, 302 $5, 456 3,645,098 $373, 823 1,725,761 I $181, 637 18,763,201 $4, 112, 324 13 24,897 2,654 1 765, 684 76, 033 103, 933 395, 000 1, 212, 621 16, 838, 127 213, 520 41,573 82, 675 256, 794 3, 622, 736 108,546 14 2,302 456 487,808 529, 566 2, 542, 447 85, 285 42,806 71, 966 247,354 11,697 15 251, 465 583, 884 48,243 I 95,979 j 156,457 486, 951 358, 521 24, 781 57, 779 57, 616 960, 127 i 105, 604 1 IB 30, 000 5,000 17 18 MATERIALS USED— continued. Yarns not made in mill- Continued. Oil. Soap. Chemicals and dyestuffs. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. All other materials. Linen. Total cost. Coal. Wood. Pounds. Cost. Gallons. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. 9,719,242 $1,504,590 546, 734 $184,891 3, 1]8, 925 $101, 498 $978, 877 $446, 501 ! ! $446, 251 $250 $18,055 $1,411,394 19 2, 100, 439 39, 088 4, 424, 263 2, 845, 865 309, 587 332, 389 6,437 640, 792 475, 192 49, 780 102, 928 8,702 183, 755 208, 738 29, 591 3,690 61, 862 75, 118 169, 280 63, 578 926, 899 1, 548, 104 411.064 4,724 2,114 31, 008 54, 683 8.970 159, 357 18, 579 342, 304 407, 701 50. 936 112, 067 7,417 140, 917 145, 919 40. 181 112,067 . 7,417 . 135, 588 20, 284 1,068,131 187,231 160 21 140, 667 j ■ 145,919 . 40.181 1. 25 oo 18, 055 23 1 b Includes states haying less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows; Connecticut, 2 ; Edode Island, 1. 122 MANUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 7.— CAEPET MILLS (OTHER STATES. PBODCCTS. Aggregate value. Total carpets and rugs. Carpets. Ingrain, 2-ply. Ingrain 3-ply. Ingrain, art. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 1 The TJnited States $47, 770, 193 $46, 457, 083 32, 918, 659 $13, 780, 694 3,251,368 $1,816,484 553, 513 4326, 984 ?, 7, 275, 009 817, 242 14, 606, 116 22,886,416 2, 186, 410 7, 003, 956 579, 522 14,280,442 22, 407, 753 2,185,410 1, 795, 300 219, 000 2, 317, 322 27, 533, 220 1, 053, 817 901, 161 120, 505 1,093,896 11,011,721 653, 411 308, 081 202, 286 3 New Jersey 4 519, 230 2,120,486 303, 571 266, 263 1, 137, 742 210, 193 21,000 532, 513 11, 025 314, 959' S 6 All other states. ' 1 STATES. V PRODUCTS— continued. Carpets— Continued. Moquette. Smyrna. Eag. All other. Running yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 7 The United States 3, 193, 186 $3, 247, 845 127, 177 $332,718 71, 310 $23, 139 ,1, 312, 818 $423, 553 a 9 New Jersey 10 New York 2, 800, 000 30, 000 363, 186 2,800,000 30, 000 417,845 15, 381 111, 796 34, 186 298, 532 11 Pennsylvania 71, 310 23, 139 1, 312, 818 423, 553 1!! All other states 1 STATES. PRODUCTS — continued. All wool woven goods. Woolen and worsted up- holstery goods. Felt druggets. Total. Horse blankets. 1 Carriage robes. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 13 The tTnited States Ill, 862 $80, 300 4,500 $1, 250 107, 362 $79, 050 189, 837 $160, 665 103, 258 $67, 118 14 15 111, 862 80, 300 4,500 1,250 107, 362 79, 050 87, 955 90, 302 103,268 67, 118 16 New York 17 101, 882 60, 263 18 Another states a Includes items as follows: custom, work, $60,000 ; coverleta, $2,000. TEXTILES— WOOL. 123 THAN RAG), BY STATES: 1890— Contiuuecl. PRODUCTS— oontinned. Oarpots— Continued. Tapestry brussels. Body brussels. Tapestry velvet; Wilton or wilton velvet. Axminster. Running yards. Value. Eunnlng yards. Value. Running yards. Value. Running yards. Value. R unning rards. Value. 23, 205, 844 $14,263,662 6,245,465 $5,319,733 2,482,128 $2,239,1«6 1, 030, 101 $1, 582, 409 379, 341 $472,915 1 5, 657, 283 35, 948 14, 046, 304 3, 466, 309 4, 281, 816 14, 549 8, 024, 238 1, 943, 059 180, 000 162, 000 62, 430 194, 662 896, 996 1, 328, 040 89, 500 183, 977 795, 023 1, 170, 606 577, 333 13, 218 65, 735 294,475 79, 340 892, 768 12, 142 102, 678 451, 844 122,977 349, 174 434,723 2 1 845, 092 4,397,208 823, 165 728, 956 3, 648, 993 779, 784 30, 167 38, 192 4 5 6 PRODUCTS— continued. I Eug9. Wilton. Moquette. Ingrain. Smyrna. All other woolen. Number. Value. Number. Value. Number. Value. Number. Value. Number. Value. 40,644 $87, 702 60, 000 $66, 000 6,278 $34, 262 1,429,536 $2, 367, 000 26,845 $73,817 7 10, 644 39, 702 -. A 1AQ oat; 248,349 287, 559 1,831,092 q 60, 000 66, 000 121, 024 1, 138, 627 4,651 21,794 400 32,426 40,191 1,200 10 30, 000 48, 000 6,278 31,262 11 !*> . _. , PBonDCTS— continued. ' ., Partly manufactured products for sale. AU other products, (a) Total. Woolen yarn, all wool. Woolen ya or me m, union rino. ' W-orated yam. Worsted noils. Waste. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Value. 2,616,410 $953, 127 443,573 $104, 336 57, 637 $12, 025 1, 922, 135 $799, 748 84, 000 $16, 000 109, 065 $21, 018 $62,000 13 704, 728 271, 053 ' 57, 637 1 12, 025 538, 091 238, 028 84, 000 16, 000 25, 000 5,000 Ti 1, 023, 682 888, 000 325, 674 356, 400 421, 573 22, 000 94, 336 10, 000 534,044 850, 000 221, 720 340, 000 68, 065 16,000 9,618 6,400 in 62, 000 17 ■\^ 124 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tabke 8.— felt MILLSy STATES. Number of estjiblishr. mpnts. CAPITAL. Value of ■ hired property Direct investment. Aggregate. $4,460,621 Value of plant. Live assets. Total. Land. Build- ings. Machinery, tools,., and imple- mentsi Total. Eaw ma- terials. Stock in process and-fin ished product! on hand Cash, bills and aocounts re- ceivable, and all sundries not elsewhere reported. 1 The TTnlted States ... . MassacliuBetts 34 $128, 400 $1,865,984 $276,780 $714,453 $874,751 $2, 594, 637 $835, 694 $824, 370 $934,573 7 11 4 3 9 - 9,000 85, 000 1,600 7,800 25, 000 731, 976 1, 371, 219 520, 298 242, 207 1,594,921 303,073 561, 187 248, 432 120, .500 632, 792 62, 660 89,500 25, 320 5,600 93, 800 142, 626 236; 386 71,642 41,000 222, 800 97, 788 235, 301 151, 470 74,000 316, 192 428, 903 810, 032 271, 866 121, 707 962, 129 79, 025 303,646 38,000 28,050 386, 973 71, 284 256, 038 105, 382 62, 229 329,437 278, 594 280, 348 128,484 31,428 245,719 ^ ]!Tew-Tork A Ohio 5 Fennsylvaiiia fi All other states (6) STATES. MATERIALS USED. Total cost. Foreign wool in con- dition purchased. Domestic wool in con- dition' purchased. Total for- eigu'and domestic wool in scoured pounds. Shoddy. "Waste and wool noils. Camel's hair and noils. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Coat. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds Cost. 7 The TJnited States. . . . Massachusetts ........ $2,809,937 1, 689, 588 $448, 360 5,039,495 fl, 393, 032 4, 213, 230 1, 450, 384 $179, 505 1,344,619 $262, 887 68, 250 $3, 071 f< 637, 928 607,276 209,497 138, 736 1,016,500 121, 335 716, 229 39,006 235,253 1, 091, 953 1,128,919 559, 844 116, 000 2,143,779 260. 326 365, 124 192, 112 60, 000 515, 470 564, 604 1, 452, 092 * 393,744 147, 750 1,655,040 765, 482 375, 947 87, 914 57,350 496, 170 246, 678 110,423 44,802 68, 250 3,071 9 New York 10 Ohio 11 Pennsylvania 97, 000 755, 024 16, 520 158, 671 12 All other states 308,955 34,241 602, 871 107, 662 STATES. " PRODUCTS. Aggregate value. Felt goods. Total. Clothe. Trimmings and linings. Table and piano covers. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. • Value. 13 The United States.... Massachusetts $4,654,768 6, 808, 116 $3, 028, 836 2, 607, 537 .$979, 364 1, 176, 114 $90, 738 20, 000 $57, 400 14 918, 890 1, 517, 199 406, 700 322, 800 1,489,179 3, 587, 529 320, 480 81,800 374, 409 2,443,807 836, 890 824, 712 365, 900 123, 000 878, 334 1,351,010 293, 980 239; 314 293, 980 395, 114 79, 023 11 New York 16 Ohio 17 IS ill other states 962, 647 446, 070 781, 000 11, 716 20,000 57,400 STATES. rEODUCTS— continued. Felt goods— Continued. All wool woven goods. Hair felting. Total. Cloths, doeskins, oaesimerea, cheviots, indigo flannels, and broad. cloths for men's wear. Flannels. Square J ards. "Value 1 Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 19 The TTnited States .... 551,760 $188, 34 579, 337 $497,307 370, 148 .$360, 177 16, 145 $10, 800 n 177, 261 65, 341 '1 New York 155, 376 63, 813 105, 330 31, 800 ?9 Ohio 16, 145 10, 800 ?3 374, 499 123, 000 '4 All other states 370. 148 360, 177 370. 148 360,177 1 1 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. For detailed information, see Table 12. & Includes states having less than 3 establishments^ in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows : Connecticut, 2 ; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; New Hampshire, 2; New Jersey, 2. TEXTILES— WOOL. 125 BY STATES: 1890. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. AVEBAQE KUMBEK OF EH- PLOTlSS AND TOTAL Wages. <<») MACHINEBY. Total. Sent paid for tenancy. Taxes. 1 Insurance. 1 i Kepairs, or- Interest paid dinary, of on cash bnildingsand | used in the machinery. | business. Sundries not else- where re- ported. $72, 954 Employfes. "Wages.'!' Cards! (Sets.) Spindles. Looms. "Woolen. Broad looms on woolen goods. Kanow looms on woolen goods. $232, 871 $12,648 $16,000 $29,825 $49,686 $51,758 2,266 $1, 041, 296 198 13, 829 200 10 29, 386 86, 273 28,191. 10, 780 78, 241 768 8 860 .90 780 2, 150 5,883 2,496 2,972 185 4,464 4, 278 11, 012 2,444 2,560 9,531 5. 820 3, 293 9,000 32,148 1,200 6,577 1,050 1 2,400 32, 616 1 7,340 9,344 22, 757 14,908 3,805 22,140 340 820 183 176 1 747 140, 328 361, 944 92,161 111, 682 334, 981 52 63 8 6 1 4,623 2,826 53 43 2 2 3 4 5 69 6,380 104 6 6 MATERIALS USED— Continued. All other animal hair. Raw cotton. Cotton yam. Oil. 1 Chemicals and dye- stuffs. Fuel. Bent of power and heat. Another materials. Total cost. Coal. "Wood. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. ( $ I!o8t. Pounds. Cost. Gallons. Cost. i Pounds. 834, 205 Cost Cost. Cost. Cost. Co-st. $750 Cost 2,355,928 $48,301 393, 032 !7,133 10, 241 $2, 019 41,240 $14,704 : $32, 718 $122, 100 $92,551 $90, 553 $1, 998 $172,816 7 1,722,028 600 300 633, 000 17, 659 962 30 29, 650 110, 800 29,700 9,892 2,673 1, 500 315 6, 405 1, 153 3,876 9,989 6,700 10,000 10, 675 1,638 4,265 2,004 3,000 ! 3,797 : 168. 742 187, 788 6,984 31, 309 13,249 4,194 i< 800 21, 668 31, 904 4, 820 5,166 28, 993 21, 470 31, 904 4,820 5,166 27, 193 1 198 48,723 42, 479 3,520 17,000, R 100 000 ■ 2. RI7 ■ 10 65, 000 312. 676 2,600 1 254, 532 24,568 2,336 , 651 13, 2.i5 67, 548 PEODUCTS-coii tinned. X; ,; Felt goods— Continued. S8 For ladies' hats. Saddl 6< elts. Sqi Kubber shoe lining s. le. Endle belts. * Druggets. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. lare yards. Val Square yard.s. ! Value. I 201,163 I $1,070,471 j S'luare yards. Value. 36, 000 $18, 000 45, 904 $22, 952 :'. 2,087,557 $576. 946 82, 080 ■ - $24, 624 la 36, 000 18, 000 " 1,628,144 ' 435,212 11 26. 500 530, 732 365,000 1,800 900 80, 000 Ifi • 17 44. 104 22. 052 459. 413 141. 734 94. 663 : 174. 739 1 82. 080 24 A%1 1R .___ __ i ,■'.'•, PRODUCTS — continued. All wool woven goods— Continued. ■ Goods woven on cotton warps, weft partly or wholly of wool or hair. Partly manufactured products for sale. All othfr Blanliets. Horse blankets. "Woolen yam. products, (c) .Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. $9, 000 Value. 37, 668 $21, 000 155, 376 $105, 330 41,961 $25, 394 10, 000 $1, 094, 231 19 82,000 576,931 155,376 105, 330 15,339 10, 226 9][ 37, 668 21, 000 10, 000 9,000 22 199,880' 235, sew 26, 622 1 5, 168 24 ; Includes items as follows: felt boots, $427,433 ; felt shoes, $366, 087 ; piano felts, $22,000; piano goods, $151,443; piano hammers, $44,227, polishing felt,$e3,041. 126 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tablk 9.— wool hat The United States . Massachusetts ]Sfew York- Pennsylva,nia ., All otner states (b) Number of estab- lish- ments. Value of hired property. 50, 000 50, 000 67, 500 69, 460 Direct investment. Aggregate. $4, 142, 224 1, 043, 590 1,444,767 1, 048, 804 605, 063 Talue of plant. Total. $1, 194, 389 324, 439 620, 000 261, 450 88, 500 Build- ings. $144, 350 $381, 105 21, 000 67, 000 41, 350 15, 000 104, 705 158, 000 73, 400 45, 000 Machinery, tools, and imple- ' ments. $668, 934 198, 734 295, 000 146, 700 28, 500 Live assets. Total. $2, 947, 835 719, 151 924, 767 787, 354 516, 563 Kaw materials. Stock in p^o'cess and finished products on hand. $900, 459 211, 602 282, 323 303, 969 102, 565 Cash, bills and accounts re- ceivable, and all sundries not elsewhere reported. $1, 029, 917 336. 742 215, 061 324, 817 153, 297 $1, 017, 459 170, 807 427, 383 158, 568 260, 701 The United States ... Massachusetts 2f ew York Pennsylvania All other states MATERIALS USED. Total cost. $2, 802, 041 829, 263 860, 937 747, 700 384. 141 Foreign wool in condition purchased. Pounds. 259, 325 35, 662 103, 953 119, 710 Cost. $75, 615 21, 989 23, 278 30,348 I Domestic wool in condition purchased. Pounds. 4, 278, 628 887, 734 1, 594, 551 927, 363 Cost. $1, 373, 184 289, 513 447, 722 411, 187 224. 762 Total foreign and domestic wool in scoured pounds. 590, 045 1, U64, 516 868, 69U 494, 863 Shoddy. Pounds. 172, 433 28, 203 89, 487 16, 228 Cost. 50. 518 7,750 24. 064 3,631 The United States . Massachusetts New York Pennsylvania All other states aiATERiALS USED — continued. Oil. Gallons. Cost. 3, 7J0 5,040 3,243 10,824 $7, 102 1,074 1,725 847 3,456 Soap. 631, 476 157, 100 139, 258 249, 764 85, 354 Cost. $23, 857 5,773 7,250 7,918 2,916 Chemicals and dyestuli's. Cost. . Rpiitof power and heat. Cost. $128, 741 31, 831 45. 776 12,072 $84, 904 23, 674 22, 643 26, 604 12, 083 Cost. All other materials. Cost. $707, 663 239, 065 287, 502 75, 875 105, 221 a Includes ofiices, iirm members, and clerks. Tor detailed information see Table 12. b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed, are distributed as follows : Conneoticiit, 2 ; Maine, 1. These establLshm enta TEXTILES— WOOL. 127 MILLS, BY STATES: 1890. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. AVEEAGE NUMBEH OE EMPLOT^B AND TOTAL WAGES. (O) MACHINERY. Total. Rent paid for tenancy. Taxes. 1 Insurance. "!hf°ery""'- ^ the business Sundries not elsewhere reported. Employes. Wages. Cards. (Sets.') $249,568 $19,070 $13, 432 $26, 703 $36, 033 $79, 134 $75, 196 3,592 $1, 363, 944 229 1 79, 247 54, 233 58,490 57, 598 3,350 5,500 4,210 6,010 4,676 3,558 2,211 3,087 9,212 7,696 6,748 3,047 14, 418 4,999 11, 093 4,923 17,451 20, 180 20, 494 21, 009 30, 240 12, 300 13, 134 19, 522 1,046 997 1,049 501 482,602 361, 512 330, 050 189, 780 50 71 72 36 2 3 4 6 MATERIALS USED— continued. "Waste and wool noils. Camel's hair and noils. 1 Mohair and noils. All other animal hair. Tarns not made in mill. Woolen. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 662, 092 $166, 162 11, 688 $5, 610 4,608 $2, 130 147, 600 $113, 878 350, 000 .$24, 982 6 29, 810 79, 921 552, 361 15, 355 31, 336 119, 471 4,508 2,130 147, 600 113,878 360, 000 24.982 7 8 11, 688 5,610 9 ^ 10 PRODUCTS. Aggregate value. Hats. Partly manufactured prod- ucts for sale. All other products, (c) Total, Wool hats. All other hats. Waste. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Pounds. Value. Value. $5, 329, 921 1, 046, 381 $5, 228, 876 972, 375 $4, 611, 851 74,00 3 $617, 025 9,600 $1,046 100, 000 11 1. 700, 486 1, 489, 132 1,444,180 696, 123 257, 867 275, 847 386, 738 125, 929 1, 700, 486 1, 489, 132 1, 443, 135 596, 123 186, 180 275,847 384,419 125,929 1, 088, 226 1, 489, 132 1,438,370 596, 123 71,68 7 612, 260 T n 2,31 ) 4,765 9,600 1,046 14 inn nnn 1^ c Scotch caps, 26,000 dozen, $100,000. 128 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table lO.— HOSIERY AND KNITTING STATES AND TERRITORIES. The United States . Alabama Connecticut . Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Louisiana Maino Maryland Massachusetts. Michigan Minnesota Missouri New" iHampshire . New Jersey Kew York North Carolina . Ohio Pennsylvania'. . . Rhode Island... Utah Vermont Wisconsin All other states (&) . Number of estab- lish- ments. Value of hired property. 796 $4, 718. 570 Direct investment. Aggregate. 348, 708 35 334, 000 « 15, 000 3 4,300 3 10, 500 4 3.000 8 8,600 74 286, 500 10 32, 150 3 50, 000 7 34, 100 37 182, 400 15 15, 700 201 1,683,957 5 6,200 44 176, 560 236 1,076,220 16 137, 500 $50, 607, 738 10 ' 23 14 94, 373 4, 822, 911 121, 494 1, 254, 576 716, 989 8,950 106, 600 28, 095 149, 656 4,497,940 560, 917 247, 498 33, 247 2, 706, 065 1,352,143 19,608, 331 72, 900 1,071,007 9, 121, 632 1, 728, 618 6. 000 I 33, 370 157, 000 754, 882 135,100 , 1,214,727 35,075 i 300,817 $23,574,761 Valne of plant. Total. 61, 223 1,755,452 97,500 502, 133 305, 209 8,000 77, 000 7,425 56, 499 1, 779, 119 270, 983 62, 750 9,507 1,209,423 806, 454 9, 859, 889 42, 800 383, 510 4, 539, 524 942, 958 14, 920 304, 556 424, 719 153, 208 :, 271, 466 $6,194,088 3,300 125, 200 17, 000 26, 730 38, 000 600 2,000 100 4,950 147, 730 37, 203 20, 100 126, 075 75, 094 865, 177 2,500 81,950 519, 137 90, 200 720 9, 400 66, 500 11, 800 BuildlDgs. 20, 000 626, 735 48, 000 78, 200 76,446 5,800 8,000 2,600 13, 855 474, 782 82, 700 15, 150 Machinery tools, and imple- ments. $15, 109, 207 291, 078 227, 233 2, 398, 628 17, 000 91, 400 1, 245, 087 257, 402 2,100 31, 000 120, 140 60, 802 37, 923 1, 003, 517 32, 500 397, 203 190, 763 1,600 67, 000 4,825 37, 694 1,156,607 I5t, 080 27, 500 9, 507 792, 270 504, 077 6, 596, 084 23, 300 210, 160 2, 775, 300 1 595,3.56 12, 100 104, 156 238, 079 I 80, 606 Live assets. Total. 27, 032, 977 33, 150 3, 067, 459 23, 994 752, 443 411, 780 950 29, 600 20, 670 93, 157 2, 718, 821 289,934 184, 748 23,740 1,496,642 545, 689 9,748,442 30, 100 687, 497 4, 682, 108 i 786, 660 j 18, 450 550, 326 790, 068 147, 609 Kaw materials. $6, 501, 320 200 464, 668 3,240 273, 729 153, 127 450 5,000 4,170 16,443 540, 784 53, 769 26, 793 9,080 306, 571 81,337 2,850,014 2,300 193, 725 923, 503 236, 571 3,910 109, 692 183, 123 59, 121 Stock in process and Gnished prodncts on hand. $11, 366, 176 16, 250 1, 478, 351 13, 185 187, 828 148, WS 400 10, 100 1,275 22, 340 131, 256 108, 839 8,372 891, 359 345, 743 3, 882, 491 15, 100 256, 372 1,627,082 325, 143 7,540 176, 094 265, 032 61, 650 Cash,biU8 and accounts receivable, and all suifdries not else- where reported. $9, 165, 481 16,700 1, 124, 440 7,569 290, 886 110, 448 100 14, 500 15, 225 54,374 791, 868 104, 909 49, 116 6,288 298, 712 118, 609 3, 015, 937 12, 700 237. 400 2, 031, 523 223, 946 7,000 264, 540 341, 853 26, 838 STATES AND TERRITORIES. The United States . Alabama Connecticut . G-eor^a Illinois Indiana Iowa Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts. Michigan Minnesota Missouri New HampsTiire . New Jersey New York North Carolina. Ohio Pennsylvania- -. Bhodo Island . . . Utah Vermont Wisconsin All other states - MACHINERY— continued. Spindles. Looms. Woolen, i Worsted. 312, 756 Cotton. 6,767 69, 830 36, 068 5,824 7, 392 11, 058 3,680 33, .';26 9,548 2,456 12, 492 4,210 1,152 1, 615 9,584 i. 2,800 1. 3,081 1. 5,000 1,800 29, 764 15, 980 512 3,774 10, 000 On woolen and worsted goods. Broad looms on woolen. 12 Narrow looms on wLolen. Narrow looms on worsted. 75 On car- pets. Venetian hand looms. MATERIALS USED. Knitting machines. 38. 327 Total cost. Foreign wool in condition purchased. Founds. 128 1,195 225 1,525 670 14 169 91 218 3,344 678 152 145 3,032 5,434 136, 1,574 14, 492 755 73 221 1,138 224 $35,861,585 103, 893 2, 029, 921 70, 697 980, 780 408, 195 1,975 58, 202 33, 839 87,315 2. 552, 705 285, 057 87, 662 30, 524 1,777,595 .582, 783 13, 669, 169 66, 025 914, 085 8, 720, 363 1, 618, 621 25, 475 649, 004 899, 371 207, 429 2, 734, 304 $1,127,465 1 532, 344 288, 277 568, 758 105, 908 52, 989 25, 000 42, 272 0,250 243, 850 188, 839 882, 065 66, 726 74,214 438, 721 4,000 10, 459 140, 000 1,500 3,397 50, 900 66, 000 20, 000 43, 700 5,600 ! ■ I ■ Inciiides officers, lirra members, and clerks. For detailed iuformation see Table 12. TEXTILES— WOOL. 129 MILLS, BY STATES AND TEKEITOEIES: 1890. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. AVERAGE NUMBEtt OP EM- PLOYES AND TOTAL WASES (0). MACHINERY. Total. Eent paid for tenancy. Taxes. Insurance. Repairs, ordinary, of buildings and machinery. $618. 627 Interest paid on cash used in the husiness. Sundries not elsewhere reported. Employes. Wages. Cards. (Sets.) Combing machines. Foreign. American. 2 < $3,627,245 $370,059 $178, 944 $273, 254 $899, 939 $1, 286. 422 61, 209 $18, 263, 272 1.183 14 1 3,422 197, 422 10, 605 68, 123 70, 437 419 2,480 1,019 9,747 316,786 67, 901 24, 345 3,803 241,201 101, 146 1,389,427 3,097 68, 991 741, 956 110, 720 2,146 63, 188 102, 727 37, 137 685 607 450 30, 239 300 3,306 8,939 10 700 415 1,300 03,499 9,871 1,125 105 41, 021 15, 198 282, 871 924 6,153 103, 337 18,921 700 11,086 12, 943 5,214 180 62, 681 5,000 16, 028 27, 771 1,500 49, 956 4,075 16, 237 25, 051 30 412 3,134 349 1,878 962 9 284 ,260 306 4,675 848 129 125 3,178 1,277 20, 299 184- 1,898 15, 941 1,638 70 718 2,296 439 64.838 1, 073, 135 71, 952 645, 109 207, 519 2,560 61, 841 30, 165 61,466 1,495,260 208, 344 46, 356 34, 477 989, 130 342, 600 6, 437, 308 30, 410 466, 630 4,732,754 487, 350 17, 020 269,844 449,724 147,490 2 114 2 14 18 ? 20, 860 14, 963 530 3.922 2,832 27 18, 717 700 7,311 4.858 32 910 112 553 23, 839 3,865 1,669 193 12, 945 4,665 107, 526 481 8,566 48, 301 9,353 531 5,261 9,017 3,243 7 4 22, 319 986 320 870 280 736 22, 539 2,846 2,500 2,684 13, 197 1,316 128, 500 374 15. 611 98, 461 13,274 600 9.355 9,414 3,011 ^ a 7 8 62 298 35, 709 2,159 651 111 9,636 13, 621 54, 717 538 4,355 21, 534 5,243 140 2,807 2,710 1,994 150 4,160 93, 291 29, 822 9,200 650 82,457 33, 470 467, 960 77 23,624 350, 587 27, 978 9 2,700 76, 909 9,338 9,200 60 82, 045 32, 876 347, 853 703 10, 683 119, 736 35, 951 175 26. 157 28, 788 6,105 10 52 14 n !'> 13 14 112 33 701 I"! 16 2 2 17 18 8 45 14 19 3 2 9.(1 ''1 00 8,722 39, 855 17, 670 37 6 11 OS '1 W MATERIALS USED — continued. J ' Domestic wool in con- dition purchased. j Total foreign and domes- tic wool in scoured pounds. Shoddy. Waste and wool noils. Camel's hair and noils. Mohair and noils. AU other animal hair. Raw cotton. rounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 18, 905, 089 $7, 126. 953 16, 771, 492 4, 735, 144 $878,948 5, 503, 286 $2,021,492 410, 154 $139, 149 169 $87 14, 173 $3,918 32, 432, 617 $3, 712, 215 26 i 27 1, 232, 862 492, 016 1, 375, 289 47, 000 10, 840 210, 174 96, 597 123, 656 41, 360 169 87 500 80 2, 429, 183 280, 000 125, 120 61, 413 278, 640 12, 000 14, 060 7,116 28 ',9 818, 500 526, 495 193, 976 109, 119 512, 300 565, 811 27, 920 143, 572 5,980 28, 176 20, 000 89, 496 6,000 22, 150 17, 500 26, 762 4,000 5,389 SO 31 32 300, 000 30, 000 33 1 34 35 1,759,087 222, 081 592,442 62, 834 1, 347, 447 139, 081 44, 500 30, 937 11, 074 6,675 1 15, 621 63, 375 8,592 13, 060 2, 637, 876 265, 555 305, 420 29, 497 36 37 38 39 3, 212, 324 216, 008 8, 142, 627 900, 213 82, 172 3, 678, 132 2, 005, 036 216, 181 8, 341, 895 960, 998 18, 623 3, 069, 939 216, 614 3,465 522, 379 118, 012 36, 540 4 101,351 35, 822 13, 958 1 . 1S2. 448 4,200 i, 660 728, isb 379, 620 22, 346, 828 82, 166 60, 754 2, 554, 026 10 10, 673 3,000 2,938 900 212, 196 82, 407 '!*> 43 355, 000 643, 583 127, 500 154. 994 273, 605 308, 000 352, 562 625,200 5,000 86. 342 12, 218 1,000 22, 724 2,716 20, 000 2, 000 223,258 95,416 111, 700 48, 680 '<'< 15, 181 1,835 977, 171 1, 047, 900 119, 974 114, 724 15 47 256, 009 180, 692 23, 250 505, 669 423, 021 54, 000 16, 882 131,213 140, 000 3,522 24, 533 20, 250 269, 809 223, 000 950 126.392 70, 221 150 432, 860 18. 361 482, 600 51, 338 2,510 50, 000 •If 11, 660 2,498 iO h Includes states bavin" less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows : C"alifornia, 2 ; Colorado, 2 ; Florida, 1 ; Kansas, 1 ; Kentucky, 2 Nebraska, 1 ; Virginia, 2 ; Washington, 1 ; West Virginia, 2. 2457 9 130 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table lO.— HOSIERY AND KNITTING MILLS, STATES AND TEEHITOEIES. The United States . . . Alabama Connecticut . Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts . Michigan Minnesota Missouri New Hampshire - New Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio Pennsylvania . . . Bhode Island . . . MATERIALS USED— Continued. Yarns not made in mill. Woolen. Pounds. 6, 386, 370 177, 100 251, 020 74, 098 1,275 29, 075 54, 750 456, 440 121, 667 64, 000 30,325 . 96, 668 113,600 1, 034, 837 Utah Vermont. . "Wisconsin . 25 All other states. 851, 313 1, 985, 017 108, 159 31,375 2,000 886, 786 16, 875 Cost. $3, 791, 497 115, 650 156, 655 31, 736 20, 494 34, 130 254, 273 75, 989 28, 000 20, 250 71, 051 102,435 693, 938 508. 349 , 190, 683 56, 769 20, 988 1,500 39i, 829 12, 678 "Worsted. Pounds. 4. 146, 035 177, 331 72, 480 3.342 12, 320 14, 000 278, 863 19, 400 41, 000 Cost. $4, 279, 105 54, 340 3,127 106, 478 36, 629 696, 260 146, 857 1, 996, 905 445, 633 2,500 84, 047 15, 000 10, 883 14, 600 314, 481 16, 225 34, 400 122, 660 39, 922 153, 607 2, 021, 023 441, 038 81, 804 18, 000 Cotton. Pounds. 32, 248, 849 545, 400 467, 410 286, 340 1,223,500 231, 413 3,000 120, 000 6,000 115, 700 67, 400 42, 000 37, 500 113, 609 4B2, 582 5, 635, 241 277, 000 296, 392 17, 511, 141 2, 289, 364 500 233, 588 249, 645 205, 635 Cost. $7, 588, 973 95, 742 129, 986 67, 269 439, 201 44, 167 600 24, 000 1,740 32, 175 449, 367 14, 800 8,562 9,500 34, 670 100, 623 1, 261, 117 62, 200 63, 730 4, 080, 238 518, 536 125 65, 129 52, 516 42,980 Mohair. Pounds. Cost. Silk. Pounds. 77, 597 369 '8,"472' 25 is.'eos' 6,140 2,160 3,155 2,036 29, 654 2,000 25 1,000 715 120 Cost. $418, 075 1,713 '36,' 385 225 "67,'676 36, 925 9,016 14, 235 67, 169 10, 380 158, 881 5,000 250 4,600 4,600 1,020 PKODUCTS. STATES AND TEEKITOBIES. The United States . . . Alabama Connecticut Georgia Illinois Indiana Iowa Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts Michigan Minnesota Missouri New Hampshire New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio Pennsylvania Bhode Island Utah Vermont "Wisconsin All other states Aggregate value. ,$67, 241, 013 190, 725 3, 771, 567 166, 850 1, 990, 035 827, 104 5,763 151,180 76, 603 180, 823 5, 082, 087 701, 322 183, 743 81, 446 3, 481, 922 1, 091, 403 24, 776, 582 126, 875 1, 635, 948 16, 944, 237 2, 516, 664 53, 560 1, 105, 958 1, 635, 641 462, 976 Hosiery and knit goods. Total value. $63, 318, 727 190, 725 3, 663, 661 166, 850 1, 912, 026 662, 139 4,938 139, 660 76, 603 180, 823 4, 717, 024 595, 142 181, 928 81, 445 3, 413, 618 1, 077, 462 23, 494, 419 126, 625 1, 611, 568 16, 736, 675 2, 276, 970 47, 960 1, 105, 958 1, 478, 752 375, 776 Woolen half hose. Dozens. 1, 360, 824 128, 569 96, 365 1,500 40, 400 46, 610 24,290 16, 300 1,000 223, 570 10 99, 775 $2, 892, 822 270, 295 208, 722 200,486 152, 926 29, 500 6,198 12, 520 183, 174 14, 550 3,700 61, 300 135, 200 74, 270 57, 200 1,525 418, 863 40 232, 100 352, 389 270, 774 78, 625 24, 500 46, 396 450, 435 26, 700 "Woolen hose. Dozens. 129, 940 98.243 170 5.500 167, 898 20,447 1,000 14, 100 1,015,337 27,640 40, 700 271, 610 194, 1,62 151, 900 8,350 80, 680 14, 110 Value. $4, 722, 796 304, 363 198, 723 180 1,000 16, 800 349,118 107, 720 3,167 24,750 2, 081, 895 37, 685 90, 250 297, 564 443, 573 22,000 204, 080 34, 682 Merino or mixed half hose. Dozens. 2,308 12, 007 1,748 4,610 15, 020 106, 843 16, 653 7,500 44, 167 133, 597 300 31,100 20O $604, 773 4,520 34,014 3,058 12,000 36,230 177, 823 37, 475 78, 333 162,946 300 56,700 2.000 Merino or mixed hose. Dozens. 10, 609 10,664 100 "26,'922 7,000 30, 000 31,066 5 45, 000 27, 500 187, 517 50, 000 650 6,150 $791, 227 23, 140 16, 799 20O 'i54,'59i 26, 200 45, 000 31, 748 21 40, 000 32, 000 289, 723 100, 000 1.705 9, 500 TEXTILES— WOOL. BY STATES AND TERRITORIES : 1890— Continued. 131 MATERIALS USED — Continued. 1 1 Tarns not made in mill— Continned. Oil. Soap, Chemicals and dyestuifs. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. All other materials. i Spun Bilk. Linen. Total cost. Coal. Wood. Pounds. c $1 3ost. Pounds. Cost. G-allons. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost . 42, 744 32, 240 301, 695 $65, 335 528, 504 .$136, 037 6, 647, 236 $312, 844 $664, 053 $509, 086 $489, 968 $19, 118 $87, 679 $3, 017, 436 1' 1,200 53, 658 243 7,892 1 9, 042 300 9,140 89 2,287 2, 704 2,043 43, 496 1,139 9,202 6,229 40 2, 352 ; 106 1,398 i .58.709 3,905 912 20 38,679 i 13.688 191,867 875 6,669 77, 376 23, 613 375 9,207 14,461 2,043 41, 740 1, 133 9,202 6,229 40 2,352 6 1,398 58, 359 ;j, 845 900 20 24, 161 13, 688 191, 656 475 5,669 77, 376 23. 513 375 9,117 13, 311 3,360 5,808 239, 006 ! 90. 14 484 1,500 58 2,193 6,750 90 1,150 465. 1,931 6,721 748 07 'ft 24^ 643 25. ' Hosiery and knit goods—Continued. 1 Cotton half hose. Cotton hose. Merino or mixed shirts and drawers. All woolen shirt.s and drawers. All cotton shirts and drawers. leggings and gaiters. Dozens 28 Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. \ 5. 341,« $3, 936, 536 7, 387, 259 $6, 214, 052 2,526,226 $15 056, 999 1, 088, 841 $8,881,777 3, 246, 590 $9,024,221 25,072 $85^4S]i 261 100, 000 36,000 68, 249 1,044,054 105, 176 65, 000 48, 000 47, 474 740, 401 65,078 134, 000 91, 600 10, 000 159, 060 15, 000 100, 000 34, 125 424, 118 26,250 80,000 187, 841 1, 619, 133 68, 177 913,416 2,000 5,666 . ,,,.. efioo' 2; 638 189, 97, 900 27,437 23, 306 93, 126 34, 373 24, 636 7,882 2,400 97, 900 24, 000 885 • 2, 500 17,314 37, 500 1, lOQJ 4S& 20 30. 31 46, 400 2,700 53. 085 142, 907 56, 000 1,000 4,500 35, 300 3,375 50,851 255,365 59,000 1,344 3,300 105, 000 95, 000 9,360 9,360 . 33* - 112 200 1,725 100 644 800 8,900 375 8,115 385, 134 12,0('0 1,000 1.200 169, 000 272, 755 41, 732 12, 000 40, 150 5, 658, 384 89, 040 100 4,704 613. 788 25, 000 2,667 1,070 135, 200 237, OOP 34, 675 13, 050 41, 163 4, 710, 753 140, 600 200 766 67, 610 1,700 500 7,660 558, 394 62, 600 10, 000 8,333 434, 380 350 33, 332 1, 282,337 10, 500 30.754 19, 874 6,000 216, 980 90,916 100, 000 36 37 57, 700 44, 393 1,888,361 367, 560 505, 916 10, 158, 826 14, 538 3,808 778,011 143, 273 51, 652 6, 924, 735 35, 508 58, 108 69, 875 87, 980 3, 400, 556 8.500 200 2f , 269 104, 177 52, 075 66, 454 2,291,148 9,100 200 4,611 1,714,825 21, 750 12, 600 655,021 80,000 40, 900. 5, 179, 811 61,500 23, 600 1,502,738 208,000 IS, UV 450" 1,942 964 10 4a.798., So' 5,867 4,524 40 42; 43. 44 45. :46. 47 48 11, 140 147, 869 19, 000 . 97, 950 1,051,089 107,000 21, 400 39, 941 12,400 10 68.645 194, 000 244,897 130, 000 225 477. 750 47, 802 384. 500 is. 666 102, 000 5,000 750 6,700 15, 150 5,700 11, 925 9,107 4,900 11, 703 3,675 6, 49, 700 510 r 8,000 6,240 5,950 2,000 82, 361 26, 000 3,000 300 45 50 135 200 49 50> 132 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table lO.— HOSIERY AND KNITTING MILLS, STATES AND TERRITORIES. PRODUCTS— continued . Hosiery and knit goods — Continued. Gloves and mittens. Hoods, scarfs , nubias, etc. Cardigan jackets, fancy jackets, etc. Shawls. Fancy knit goods, wristers, etc. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. 1 The United States 896, 150 $1, 935, 080 342, 497 $1,476,430 361, 478 $3, 576, 248 22,990 $115, 407 270. 533 $759, 64. 2 » 16, 700 23, 200 ' 17, 800 190,800 4 Georgia ^5 66, 540 50,000 6 170, 335 74, 000 36 12,950 1,600 300 55,491 3,000 1,000 6,771 57, 540 104 260 5,550 31, 200 'S per employ6. $19. 34 .00 27. 19 19.82 17.78 10.47 16.87 14.69 19.14 22.72 Total wages. $1,749,820 IS, 470 68, 306 1,630 4,277 30, 837 24, 277 18, 345 28, 592 16. 26 18.80 21.37 18.36 29.42 27.00 13. 64 23.57 20.44 20.25 16.59 17.19 12.42 18.91 17.49 16.64 24.00 16.21 15.03 8.03 6.81 19.89 25, 982 4,700 339, 417 21, 917 9,806 1,350 9,477 61,782 49, 667 321, 377 4,700 29, 404 14, 900 442, 169 130, 654 12, 825 18, 800 2,550 7,859 5,010 1,590 40, 850 Females above 15 years. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. 39 1 50 Average weekly earnings per employe. $8.34 7.80 12.00 11.89 6.84 9.60 7.33 9.20 2.40 8.19 8.48 26.00 8.81 6.62 ■z.'is' 7.19 3.36 1.71 15.54 7.20 Total $68, 623 1,170 1,000 1,090 1,937 560 3,100 375 17, 777 76 1,408 2,404 1,300 5,192 ' 1,324'; "26,'533'l 1,438 140 50 2,460 570 Operatives and skilled. Males above 16 years. Num- ber. 80, 194 29 7 853 6,053 79 85 663 865 133 785 138 616 148 i,794 1. 3.19 332 101 145 ,066 288 127 653 28 Average number of weeks em- ployed. 47 41 47 47 49 46 45 48 34 48 49 47 43 j 44 ! 38 I 47 I Average weekly earnings per employ6. $9.02 7.67 0.04 8.74 8.93 8.84 7.85 8.83 7.87 8.90 7.26 9.92 8.79 7.59 8.79 7.96 8.14 7.93 8.67 8.51 9.09 5.66 8.69 12.89 9.84 6.48 10.91 10.80 9.05 7.13 7.34 8.62 10.49 Total wages. $34, 191, 923 10, 036 1,385 189, 377 2, 618, 254 31, 306 22,118 271. 688 305, 782 52, 552 257, 420 8,188 1, 160, 646 73, 667 8, 319, 824 137, 052 67, 753 149, 616 61, 464 1, 525, 023 1, 222, 428 4, 949, 948 33, 529 233, 921 72, 406 7, 698, 239 3, 660, 631 91, 636 52, 100 64, 834 464, 280 90, 852 81, 790 261, 987 10, 185 Females above 15 years. Num- ber. 133 12 363 3,633 37 166 1,259 907 157 718 158 1,659 135 14, 113 458 148 384 262 3,196 2,781 11,481 147 1,112 31 16. 776 412 166 155 867 220 95 944 45 Average number of weeks em- ployed. 50 31 25 48 45 44 48 47 45 46 38 46 50 49 47 47 49 40 49 49 48 • 45 46 28 46 ! 50 ' 46 50 44 48 42 39 48 41 Average weekly earnings per employ6. Total wages. $5.94 $19,637,084 7.23 6.43 4.45 4.78 5.44 4.28 5.51 4.96 5.02 ' 6.98 5.99 6.03 5.28 ' 4.74 4.95 5.25 6.11 4.98 • 5.91 3.86 4. -12 6.95 6.30 -6.20 4.02 5.15 5.40 6.59 4.67 4.31 4.51 4.79 28, 596 1,740 65, 819 1.125,881 7,365 34, 734 325, 270 181, 835 38, 887 164, 534 29, 750 457, 670 40. 019 4, 15.'), :i::o 113.873 32, 915 92, 800 55, 535 950, 602 684. 605 3, 225, 142 25, 708 228, 522 6,087 4, 836. 025 2, 023. 010 75, 324 40, 150 36, 583 274, 021 43, 160 15, 788 204, 889 8,915 h Includes states baving less than 3 establishments, in order tbat the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed iis follows : Colorado, 2; Florida, 1: Idaho.l; Kansas, 2; Nebraska, 1; South Carolina, 1 ; South Dakota, 2; Washington,!. i^ 136 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tablk 11 CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN ALL CLASSES STATES AND TEREITOEIEt?. The United States . Alabama Arkansas California .-- Connecticut . Delaware — G-eor^a — Illinois Indiana^ . . - Iowa Kentucky . Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts. Michigan , Minnesota Mississippi Missouri 'New Hampshire. New Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania. . . Rhode Island. Tennessee Texas Utah "Vermont Virginiii West "Virginia.. "Wisconsin An other states. AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS- Continued. Operatives and skilled— Continued. Children. Number. 12, 761 250 3 24 498 131 15 178 1,678 30 1 224 59 213 290 196 23 4,521 1,705 112 41 19 Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ I. $3.34 1.94 1.56 4.24 3.58 2.63 2.18 3.15 2.08 2.78 3.03 Total wages. $2. 013, 239 3.21 4.31 3.56 3.29 2.53 2.75 3.54 3.53 2.66 2.96 3.37 3.47 3.30 2.19 2.84 2.32 3.14 2.92 1.18 2.67 2.93 24. 300 166 1,664 86, 599 4,426 6,835 9,361 12, 789 1,908 25, 106 22, 669 14, 515 292, 711 3,018 27, 742 5,240 37, 386 49, 433 315, 210 7,693 27, 987 3,623 715, 276 279, 171 12. 101 5,580 1,584 5,932 3,982 374 8,781 110 Unskilled. Males abovb 16 years. Number. 4,33 28 277 38 15 36 1 205 5 1,001 24 6 6 12 207 149 598 18 40 16 1,038 363 24 12 5 Average number of weeks employed. 47 Average weekly earnings per employ 6. $8.41 10.73 8.84 9.68 6.75 7.91 7.59 8.45 8.72 9.60 7.46 8.80 8.51 6.43 10.14 7.20 7.40 8.36 8.26 8.53 4.87 7.76 8.33 8.01 6.71 8.42 6.27 4.01 Total wages. Females above 15 years. $1, 728, 113 300 7,823 116, 487 3,472 3,472 13, 220 13, 575 5,860 14,124 360 71, 525 2,200 418, 655 7,581 2,725 1,800 2,898 84, 246 60, 206 232, 402 4,283 15, 045 6,555 432, 700 143, 733 7,251 4,700 1,800 28, 412 2,994 918 17, 641 450 Average number of weeks employed. TEXTILES— WOOL. 137 OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS— continued. PIEOBWORKERS^-AVERAGE NUMBE L WAGES. Unskilled— Continued. B EMPLOYED AND TOTA j Females, above 15 years—Continued. CliiUlren. I Average weekly earn ings I>er employe. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ*. Total wages. Summary. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Children. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. $5.31 $110, 729 187 48 $3. 16 $28, 229 46,246 $13,208,577 8,860 $3,823,395 35, 632 $9, 141, 431 1,746 $243, 751 V 9 1,678 9 1,678 2- 3- 4 5 6- 7- 8. 9- 10 63 2,284 125 166 604 1,032 24 222 100 489 262 5,947 462 101 72 49 1,859 953 n,465 115 1,191 140 14, 654 3,971 40 32 19, 661 630, 082 44,628 19, 967 no, 376 185, 756 6,276 68,144 4, 705 139,986 33,646 1,915,203 69, 125 29, 453 23, 032 10, 274 488, 636 236, 146 3, 329, 354 10, 965 256, 763 54, 865 4,673,486 658, 506 3,475 18, 150 8 350 52 10 15 188 3 13 2,053 141, 236 25, 220 1,500 4,035 32, 912 1,200 4,824 56 1,877 73 126 585 803 21 209 100 346 185 4.612 446 100 59 42 1,492 765 9,291 83 1,126 103 9,870 1,504 29 20 17, 608 476, 631 19, 308 16, 140 106, 217 148,944 5,076 53, 320 4,706 68, 788 27,476 1, 343, 844 65, 727 29, 353 16, 663 8,175 365, 241 174,208 2, 507, 475 8,590 238. 981 36; 358 2,760,261 380, 607 2,800 10, 550 7.34 15, 298 28 49 3.95 5,454 57 13, 315 30 4 41 2,327 124 3, 900 4.80 9,440 3 1 1 50 42 50 3.00 2.40 2.74 450 100 137 6.00 5.00 500 2,500 11 12 4.00 400 143 2 1,182 14 1 13 7 332 142 1,992 8 32 37 3,899 333 3 12 71, 197 450 544, 048 3,278 100 6,369 2,099 118, 728 65, 793 790, 757 875 13.150 18, 507 1, 793, 601 157, 779 185 7,600 65 153 2 5,720 27, 311 120 14 15 16 17 6.0;) 21, 135 n 48 3.95 2,088 1 19 5.30 28, 245 12 49 3.46 2,038 35 46 182 24 33 4,667 6,145 31, 122 1,500 4,632 20- 21 22 23 24 4,04 5,422 u 44 3.49 1,700 4.80 60 4.57 5.14 5.00 14, 329 11,300 750 76 37 4 46 50 50 2.71 3.25 2.50 9,498 6,014 600 885 134 8 119, 664 20, 120 490 26. 27 28 2 50 2.00 200 192 14 31 1,525 63 66, 199 2,065 5,178 181, 765 21, 133 19 9 9 29 12 7,459 1,511 2,130 9,739 5,000 172 4 22 1,462 51 58, 590 545 3,048 169,491 16,133 1 1 150 9 1 46 1.09 50 3.00 1,350 44 2,535 35' 138 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 18.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN EACH CLASS CLASSES BY STATES AND TERRITORIES. Number of establish- luents. AVERAGE KUMBER OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS, (a) Aggregates. Officers or firm members actively engaged in the industry or in supervision. Average number. Total wages. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ^. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earaings per employ^. Total wages. T 1,311 79, 351 $28, 478, 931 1,567 40 $26.71 $1,687,495 12 29 .$13. 11 $4,506 9 6 6 8 55 3 14 23 45 14 40 75 9 166 32 16 31 1,264 5,173 297 179 914 2,103 378 1,803 4,323 383 19,813 .IIS 3,125 6, 231 287, 668 2, 035, 462 103, 395 32, 401 313, 780 600. 062 133, 240 654, 544 1, 629, 888 123, 931 7, 586, 675 156, 128 120, 967 306, 270 122, 410 1 643, 168 1, 481, 315 1, 046, 778 65, 329 294, 365 175, 313 5, 729, 982 2, 297, 416 2.39, 657 138, 795 104, 156 625, 440 117, 023 61, 919 North Carolina , *>S OJiio 1 , 50 1 8.00 400 0^ ■9(1 2 38 14.40 1,080 9fi Khode Taland 40 49 4 9 29 6, 028 998 359 274" 1,565 444 287 982 2I 3 14.40 90 •'R ■9q Utah ■SI 35 [ .^c) 30 32 6 143 j 33 ] 1 33 9.00 300 S.| All other states (b) 61 17.436 14. 81 I '2, 839 46 25 1 ^^fi «91 1 S-i 43, 593 15, 880, 183 j 1 SB 10 33 4 6 16 41 28 5 173 2,261 12, 021 1,963 954 3,953 9,453 11, 757 1,231 29, 121 875, 372 4, 556, 997 678, 552 284, 102 1, 481, 194 3, 350, 113 4, 263, 968 389, 885 11, 633, 116 16 58 6 10 33 71 45 16 213 49 49 50 50 48 45 49 37 48 38 79 56.43 32.00 16.03 51.90 38.29 50.74 43.06 32.41 30, 667 160, 003 9,600 7,950 86, 925 123, 170 112, 676 25, 300 329, 638 1 S7 SR New Hampshire S9 1 i n Pennsylvania IS All other states (&) Carpetmilla (otherthan rag) . i 1 15 7 6 15 142 3 34 5, 144 585 8,954 12, 674 1,764 2,266 1, 892, 072 212, 554 3, 345, 165 5, 509, 805 673, 620 1,041,296 8 5 27 165 8 65 50 50 50 47 46 46 109. 32 94.80 49.32 23. 29 38.43 32.95 43, 500 23, 700 66, 375 181, 813 14, 250 97, 764 ! 1 New York IS IS All otter states (b) Fell, mills 1 50 7 11 4 3 9 32 340 820 183 176 747 5,592 140, 528 361, 944 92,161 111,682 334, 981 1, 363, 944 5 19 12 8 21 58 50 45 60 44 43 44 54.00 38.86 30.17 24.74 26.59 31.78 13, 500 33, 344 18, 100 8,660 24, 150 81, 837 52 New York fiS Ohio All other states (&) Wool hat mills "ifi n7 7 5 17 3 1,045 997 1,049 501 482, 602 361, 512 330, 050 189,780 , 15 6 32 5 49 43 43 44.73 79.61 14 SI 32,987 20, 400 20. 45(1 58 Now York 5<> 1 1 60 All other states (i) 40 40. 00 ' 8, 000 1 I a The average weekly earnings per employ6 are computed from individual reports. The average numher of employes reported by each establishment is multiplied by the. number of weeks embraced by the term of operation ; the result is the number of weeks requij-ed for one employ6 to perform the labor. This number used .as a divisor for the total wages iiroduces the true average weekly earnings. TEXTILES— WOOL. 139 OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TEEEITOEIES: 1890. AVEEAGE NXIMBER OF EMPLOTfe IN EACH CIJi.SS AND A\'BBAQE WEEKLY EARNINGS— Continued. Clerks. Operatives and skilled. Males above 16 years. Females abffve 16 years. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. !Nunn~ h&v. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per employe. Total ■wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per employ^. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekfy earnings per employ*. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em. ployed. Average weekly earnings per employ*. Total wages. 788 47 :$I1B. 97 $622,828 69 47 $7.66 $24, 900 38,480 47 $8.63 $15, 574, 144 25, 686 47 $5.90 $7, 102, 070 1 8 7 844 2,992 79 57 403 752 132 684 2.446 188 11,063 236 166 383 190 2,223 1,898 1, 290 126 402 148 6,557 3,072 332 101 145 836 229 123 347 22 16, 862 1,208 4,740 706 299 1,434 2, 990 5,036 450 11, 269 32 83 26 49 46 29 46 44 44 47 46 47 48 44 45 48 34 49 60 47 48 41 . 38 47 60 43 47 41 48 43 34 45 34 48 5.57 6.04 8.67 8.51 8.84 6.50 8.61 7.77 8.85 7.02 8.82 7.47 8.63 7.67 8.30 8.14 7.96 8.72 8.67 8.74 5.41 7.25 12.89 9.04 8.60 6.48 10.91 10.80 8.97 6.88 7.24 8.94 10.87 9.17 1,440 1,385 184,536 1, 234, 374 31, 306 10, 799 158, 613 259, 830 51, 832 226, 817 999, 684 68, 275 4, 565, 561 80, 040 62, 271 149, 616 51, 200 945, 486 818, 094 532, 937 29, 029 119, 430 72, 406 2, 790, 817 1,311,597 91,636 63, 100 64, 834 363. 291 67, 627 30, 199 140, 386 8,197 7, 460, 463 4 12 303 1,665 37 65 371 752 151 627 1,336 118 5,989 171 76 384 168 1,466 1,963 981 112 359 31 4,753 1,868 412 166 96 576 115 82 371 28 17, 543 50 31 21 49 45 32 47 47 45 49 45 49 48 46 44 49 38 49 50 48 45 44 28 46 50 46 50 41 49 40 37 48 40 48 2.40 4.69 6.93 6.49 4.45 3.55 5.45 4.34 5.52 5.17 6.18 6.51 6.42 4.93 4.47 4.95 5.06 6.18 5.19 5.58 3.54 4.77 6.96 5.98 6.32 4.02 5.15 6.02 6.48 3.90 4.54 4.84 4.88 5.93 480 . 1, 740 ■) S 20 24 2 5 21 31 21 26 30 34 47 46 42 46 47 40 47 45 ■27. 19 16. 97 17.78 12.37 13.78 14.24 19.14 22.60 15.71 18,470 19, 308 1,630 2,577 13, 038 20, 556 18, 345 27, 780 21, 182 44, 916 4 524,427 7,365 6,183 94, 467 151, 845 37, 877 158, 783 373, 517 37, 991 1,833,259 37, 611 14, 915 92, 800 32,285 443, 697 509, 487 260, 678 17,708 74, 663 6,087 1, 307, 355 587, 929 75,324 40, 160 23,383 181,466 18, 060 13, 688 88, 520 5,515 5, 036, 400 5 2 42 12.00 1,000 6 7 S 5 2 2 1 47 29 50 48 7.02 9.60 7.40 7.83 1,637 560 740 375 9 10 11 12 13 135 9 3 2 17 31 28 34 6 14 26 167 56 18 14 4 14 6 19 48 41 44 25 38 49 49 44 47 44 48 49 s:) 43 50 39 4? 45 39 47 18.38 12.87 23.63 27.00 13.58 26.28 18.38 12. :« 16.69 16.67 12.42 17.04 13.66 16.64 24.00 16.21 14.22 8.08 6.81 13.72 117, 977 4,746 3,150 1,350 8,767 39, 780 25, 387 18. 376 4,700 9,664 14,900 138, 039 38, 092 12,825 16, 800 2,550 4,000 5,010 1,690 12, 350 8 1 1 49 31 50 9.64 2.40 14.40 3.766 75 720 14 15 18 17 2 4 1 1 36 50 50 50 11.36 8.91 '26. 00 15.60 816 1,781 1,300 780 18 19 20 21 09 91 '4 35 50 6.79 10,124 25 ''6 07 9C, 10 1 1 1 1 28 42 29 33 29 48 3.36 1.71 21.60 11.14 8.48 140 60 720 325 11.379 31 32 33 .34 332 49 22.66 366, 947 35 11 109 5 7 50 63 81 6 166 49 50 50 49 49 47 49 47 48 21.07 27.16 80.68 18.87 21.01 18.19 21.17 24.40 22.30 11,484 147, 886 7,670 4,710 51, 291 53, 803 83, 341 6,812 178, 388 49 50 60 48 49 46 48 46 49 9.02 8.85 8.38 8.75 9.20 10.19 9.19 8.10 9.72 636, 130 2, 093, 718 295, 898 124,402 642, 656 1,359,197 2,241,162 167, 300 5, 389, 809 662 6,006 1,091 503 1,543 4,104 4,283 351 10, 702 B .1.=; 206, 700 1,466,404 322, 602 104, 301 440, 647 1, 108, 360 1, 310, 043 77, 543 3, 430, 044 36 19 60 9.33 8,861 50 5. 88 50 5.91 49 4. 19 48 5. 9S 37 38 39 40 4 3 2 6 48 50 25 60 5.93 6.81 7.20 9.50 1,136 1,022 360 2,831 48 50 43 49 6.90 6.18 5.08 6.49 41 42 43 44 27 1 48 85 5 65 50 60 50 47 50 49 24.14 30.00 25.30 19.92 20.00 21.65 32, 483 1,500 60,423 78, 982 5,000 68, 732 2,177 272 3,126 4,938 766 1,286 50 50 50 48 50 48 9.11 7.70 9.58 10.29 9.16 9.99 988, 258 104, 336 1, 491, 135 2,480,197 345, 883 620, 641 2.264 61 4,123 3,687 577 346 50 60 60 49 50 48 5.30 4.36 6.14 7.61 6.83 5.51 598, 761 11, 106 1,260,120 1, 362, 949 197, 108 91,634 45 16 47 6 60 9.50 2,831 48 19 4 47 7.63 1,430 60 9 25 4 2 15 31 50 50 60 44 48 44 14.10 20.38 17.00 17.26 30.34 22.37 6,345 25, 477 3,400 1,510 22,000 30, 827 276 418 105 68 419 1,415 48 49 60 44 48 44 8.04 9.41 10.63 23.75 9.66 9.13 107, 465 191. 719 65, 742 70, 756 194, 959 671,414 34 136 39 4 133 490 50 49 60 42 47 44 4.47 5.86 5.08 4.81 6.59 5:27 7,591 38, 701 9,907 802 34, 633 113, 714 51 3 49 8.16 1,190 52 63 1 42 5.76 240 54 55 3 47 9.27 1,304 56 11 15 8 2 49 41 44 42 17.73 28.22 15.20 20. 40 9,640 17, 492 1,995 1,700 2 50 11.34 1,124 512 341 374 1 188 49 42 42 40 9.79 9.43 7.13 10.54 246, 383 135, 113 111,901 79. 017 194 32 131 133 50 45 5.75 4.80 66, 271 6,903 22,672 28, 868 57 58 1 41 4.43 180 41 1 4.21 39 1 5.64 59 80 hats, Connecticut, 2; Maine,!. These establisbnients are ,,2; Maine, 1: Ohio, 1: ; New Jersey. 2, Wool 140 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table ISS.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN EACH CLASS AVERAGE NUMBEK OF EMPLOYiSs IN EACH CLASS AND AVKKAGE WEEKLY EAKNINGS— Continued. CLASSES BY STATES AND TEBEITORIES. "Woolen mills - Alabama Arkansas California . . . Connecticut - IDelaware Greorg[ia — Illinois — Indiana — Iowa Kentucky . Maine Marylaud...". .. Massachusetts. Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri New Hampshire. Kew Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania — Rhode Island.- - Tennessee . Texas Utah Yennont. . . Operatives and skilled — Continued . Children. Number. Virginia West Virginia... "Wisconsin All other states . Worsted mills . Connecticut Massachusetts. . . New Hampshire . New Jersey Ne"w York Pennsylvania — Rhode Island . . - All other states. Carpet mills (other than rag) Massachusetts. - New Jersey New York Penns.ylvania — All other states . Felt mills. Massachusetts . . New York Ohio Pennsylvania... All other states. Wool hat mills . Massachusetts. - New York Pennsylvania... All other states. 3 24 132 25 24 108 15 178 88 68 701 29 1 224 59 142 78 191 29 60 23 1,459 347 U2 41 14 34 30 10 7 4 147 713 15 78 285 1,056 1,310 143 716 808 130 139 Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earn- ings per employ6. 1.56 4.24 3.63 2.63 1.82 2.42 2.07 2.78 3.03 3.74 4.31 3.61 2.70 3.29 2.63 2.75 3.64 3.30 3.38 2.39 3.01 3.37 3.51 3.56 2.19 2.84 1.92 2.96 2.92 1.18 2.16 2.93 4.02 3.47 3.30 3.52 3.60 3.44 3.25 2.66 3.70 3.53 3.84 3.28 4.02 3.15 3.38 4.04 2.51 2.72 3.72 1.78 Total wages. 9, 520 156 1,554 23, 217 4,426 1,570 2. 361 10, 389 1,908 26, 105 14,859 14, 515 121, 183 2,918 27, 742 5,240 25, 508 12, 886 31, 072 3,193 8,109 3,625 227, 779 61, 555 12, 101 5,580 834 4,952 3,982 374 621 110 28, 378 123, 431 2,472 13, 650 51, 317 173. 672 211, -125 19, 000 Unskilled. Males above IG years. 28 128 7 15 22 15 32 124 2 444 9 15 20 16 423 102 24 12 5 57 11 6 35 1 28, 697 125, 503 152, 150 21. 297 1,606 6,240 2,200 6,396 2,. 968 16, 922 4,555 5,595 5,772 32 414 33 19 81 195 242 84 79 19 67 134 51 Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earn- ings per employe. $8.29 10.73 8.43 9.58 7.19 8.00 8.25 S.45 8.55 8.41 7.00 8.90 6.00 13.10 7.20 7.40 8.23 7. 98 8.52 4.78 6.83 8.33 8.27 8.11 6.71 8.42 8.39 7.22 4.90 4.01 7.06 9.00 8.16 8.57 8.00 7.94 7.80 9.90 7.88 6.12 9.32 9.17 7.07 10.04 9.11 10.05 8.56 10.75 11.28 9.22 9.70 10.38 6.62 8.02 Total wages. $733, 121 7,823 62, 197 3,472 2,097 5,808 8,504 5,860 12, 929 46, 736 700 190,912 2,650 1,310 1,800 2,898 53, 342 36, 612 26, 176 3, 483 6, 'H 5,655 166, 167 40, 941 7,251 4,700 1,600 20, 073 2,294 918 11,302 450 11, 449 165, 587 13, 100 8,309 31, 545 88, 200 94, 271 25, 109 160, 425 36, 142 6.542 29, 539 64. 972 23, 230 31, 418 4,021 15, 193 1,612 2,444 8,148 48, 192 Females above 15 years. Number. 3,192 12, 001 26, 949 6,050 Average number of weeks employed. 50 50 43 33 40 ; 43 1 42 ; TEXTILES— WOOL. OF WOOL. MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Coiitimied. 141 AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS— continued. X PIECEWORKERS— AVERAGE NL'MBEI WAGES. ITuskilled -Continued Females above 15 years— Continued. Children. Summary. Males above 16 years. Number. Wages. Females above 15 years. Children. Average weekly earnings per employ^'. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per em ploy 6. $2.91 Total wages. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. $4.55 $18, 805 68 48 $9, 443 6,526 $2, 042, 091 1,780 $752, 058 4,487 $1, 250, 399 269 * $39, 634 1 1 180 1 180 2 3 23 129 125 18 42 363 24 194 213 7,241 41,246 44,528 2,385 9,658 83, 165 6,276 60, 404 71, 651 8 43 52 2,063 20, 670 25, 220 15 82 73 16 24 343 21 193 145 5,188 19, 614 19, 308 2,260 5.523 77, 953 5.076 50, 260 40, 026 4 5.83 3,898 9 48 3.85 1,660 4 962 5 6 2 3 2 125 100 300 7 4.00 2,000 is 18 3 1 68 4,035 4, 912 1,200 144 31,525 « 9 5.66 5.00 500 2,500 1 50 2.74 137 10 U 12 ::..;::::::: 13 4.30 :i, 800 6 47 3.55 991 1,228 34 71 72 27 100 134 309 17 105 140 2,331 516 40 32 401, 340 11,246 23, 350 23, 032 5,499 31,724 26. 079 95, 198 1,505 27, 468 64, 865 793, 261 153, 166 3,475 18, 150 412 6 1 13 7 20 1 33 4 31 37 817 129 3 12 173, 235 1,498 100 6,369 2,099 10. 382 767 13, 414 375 12, 650 18, 507 347, 500 54. 608 185 7.600 708 26 70 59 20 59 87 267 13 74 103 1,464 383 29 20 208, 924 9,628 23, 250 16, 663 3,400 18. 510 ; 18, 167 ! 80, 576 1,130 14, 818 36, 358 438, 188 103, 154 2,800 10, 550 108 2 19. 181 120 14 15 ; :::; 16 17 IS 4.40 2,135 12 49 3.46 2,038 15 46 9 2,832 6,146 1,208 19 4.33 650 f\ ">•> n ?4 3.05 4.80 5.00 1,372 1,200 750 31 2 4 47 50 50 2.51 2.44 2.50 3,623 24^ 500 50 4 8 7,573 404 490 25 26 27 1 29 2 50 2.00 200 37 14 31 156 12, 983 2,065 6,178 31, 873 io 9 9 12 4,695 1,611 2, 130 4,674 26 4 22 140 8, 138 545 3,048 27, 164 1 1 150 9 30 31 1 46 1.09 50 32 4 35 33 34 5.75 52, 869 44 50 3.56 7,829 3,498 1, 326, 490 1,109 532, 592 2,356 788,448 34 5,450 35 5 3 50 50 4.68 4.89 1,170 733 180 911 10 38 527 969 684 179 4,566 49,444 373, 115 1,200 20, 78" 176, 913 442, 419 194, 158 68, 461 1, 795, 754 111 308 32,440 148, 015 69 1 7 004 36 6.94 5.38 16, 669 26, 110 602 : 224,900 10 i 1,200 28 12. 490 1 200 37 ;i8 10 174 310 122 74 2,036 8,290 69, 210 100, 965 51, 271 32, 401 960, 223 39 353 655 538 106 2,331 107, 703 250, 564 138, 537 36, 060 802, 823 4f: 1 35 50 50 3.12 3.30 156 5,770 4 29 900 4,350 41 5.18 10, 100 42 43 7.42 15. 382 17 50 3.79 3,198 199 32, 708 44 2 50 3.64 364 452 237 847 2,830 200 317 163, 867 65, 370 312, 070 1,200,419 54, 028 120, 277 38 98 438 1,454 8 118 21, 049 29, 895 ■ 181, 229 724,402 3,648 69, 737 414 139 387 1,211 180 160 142, 818 35. 476 126, 441 460, 209 47, 880 42, 639 45 46 22 165 12 39 4,400 25, 808 2,500 7,901 47 0.06 8.32 4,982 10,400 3 12 48 50 3.55 3.87 510 2,324 48 49 50 51 143 7 50 117 1,268 50, 080 1,200 20, 874 48, 123 494, 875 42 25, 790 100 7 4 49 698 24, i97 1.200 1,040 16,202 133, 114 1 93 5;, 53 28 48 061 17 026 26; 921 360, 424 18 20 9 2,808 5,000 1,337 54 .56 3.51 4,833 11 42 2.24 1,026 06 269 526 322 1 151 130,450 162, 130 136, 950 05, 345 168 241 189 73 99, 197 106, 912 111, 175 43, 140 111 276 133 78 31, 253 53, 881 26, 775 22. 206 67 58 59 60 3.95 2.94 4.80 1,878 2,155 800 9 1,337 11 42 2.24 1, 026 142 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 12.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN EACH CLASS CLASSES BY STATES jfXD TERRITORIES. Number of establish- ments. AVEKAGE NUjMBEK OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS. Aggregates. Officers or firm members actively engaged in the industry or in supervision. , i Average number. 61, 209 Total wages. Males above 16 years. Females above 16 years. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ6. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ6. Total wages. 61 Hosiery and knitting mills, . 790 $18, 263, 272 959 44 $26. 94 $1, 149, 132 34 41 $12. 37 .$17, 153 (\'> 3 27 4 35 9 3 3 4 8 74 10 3 7 37 15 201 5 44 236 16 5 10 23 14 412 3,134 349 1,878 962 9 284 260 306 4,675 848 129 125 3, 178 1,277 20, 299 184 1,898 15, 941 1,538 70 718 2,296 439 64, 838 1, 073, 135 71, 952 545, 109 207, 519 2.650 5i; 841 30, 165 61, 466 1, 495, 260 208, 344 46. 356 34, 477 989, 130 342, 600 6, 487, 308 30, 410 466, 630 4, 732, 754 487, 350 17, 020 269, 844 449, 724 147,490 2 44 7 50 21 2 6 1 12 68 17 5 5 37 18 2"5 5 45 267 18 5 8 27 14 50 47 46 46 48 38 48 28 50 45 45 46 43 43 43 45 48 47 43 45 39 44 46 38 17.28 38.28 19.08 25.31 26.49 10.93 31.83 37.33 20.33 23.79 22.85 37.62 22.50 27.50 31.41 28.88 13.03 24.52 24.83 29,73 15.68 28.29 32.33 21.79 1,728 78, 800 6,160 58,062 25, 700 820 9,150 1,050 12,200 73, 018 17,663 8,700 ■4, 876 43, 456 24,310 353, 547 3,150 51, 700 286,428 24. 034 3,070 9, 9U0 40, 080 11, 530 (iS M fi5 2 50 13.50 1,350 06 fi7 (iS m Maine 2 44 10.29 900 70 71 1 li l;'. 00 10.00 500 500 79 1 ; 50 7S 7'1 75 76 New Hampshire 1 1 12 46 25 44 21.82 6.24 12.47 1,000 156 6,652 77 7fl North Carolina 79 2 11 40 36 2i.b9 10.44 1,670 4,165 KO R1 «? Utah ■ RS Rl 1 25 10.40 260. 85 All other staces (a) ' a Includes slates having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be diaclosert. These establishments nrc distributed as follows: California, 2; Colorado, 2; Florida,!; Kansas,!; Kentucky, 2; Nebraska,!; Virginia, 2; Washington,!; "West Virginia,. 2. TEXTILES— WOOL. OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. 143 AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOTtS IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS — continued. Clerk 1. Operatives and skilled. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. 1 Num- ber. 561 Average nninber of weeks em- ployed. 45 Average weekly earaings per employfi. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per employ6. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per employ^. Total wages. $19. 29 $492,098 67 45 $8.89 .$26, 770 10, 882 45 $9.28 $4,576,462 15, 040 46 $5.63 $3,863,222 61 1 28 4 20 6 50 48 50 48 42 6.00 19.40 8.50 18.67 17.86 300 25, 864 1,700 17, 799 3,721 21 782 28 260 96 1 19 6 17 710 110 13 1 663 332 5,028 12 91 1,867 231 50 48 48 47 49 50 41 41 49 48 47 44 50 46 43 44 47 47 44 49 » 8.19 9.63 8.41 9.33 8.93 14.40 10.16 4.12 8.89 9.37 8.01 9. 50 5.28 8.76 7.77 8.77 8.06 11.84 10.94 9.59 8,596 360, 720 11, 319 113, 075 42, 177 720 7.876 860 7,392 319, 439 41,612 5,482 264 265, 039 111, 672 1,966,388 4,500 50,849 905, 371 107, 747 129 573. 1)1 888 133 6 158 82 17 626 269 72 94 614 249 4.666 35 702 4,098 435 60 292 631 200 50 48 60 48 49 33 38 48 50 47 48 50 45 47 45 46 47 48 43 49 48 47 48 44 4.36 5.88 5.17 5.43 4.01 5.05 5.02 2.57 2.39 6.58 5.62 5.00 5.54 6.38 4.99 5.74 4.85 4.22 5.85 5.85 4.57 6.81 4.34 6.98 28, 116 162,313 28,551 230,803 26, 150 1,010 29, 750 10, 125 2,028 194, 044 71,962 18, 000 23, 250 184.503 56,411 1, 218, 193 8,000 141. 352 1, 033, 887 125, 038 13, 200 92, 555 110, 977 53, 004 62 3 60 7.80 1,170 63 64 2 1 46 50 ii.89 6.00 1,090 SOO 65 66 67 68 69 5 34 15 6 1 17 8 174 60 49 48 40 50 45 42 44 is. 80 14.92 22.44 33.28 14.40 16.66 16.66 19.32 4,700 25, 086 16, 272 6,666 720 12, 532 6.570 148, 318 70 io 49 8.19 4,026 71 72 73 2 2 50 42 5.92 7.48 592 623 74 7,5. 76 10 34 9.48 3,222 77 78, 16 182 15 .50 45 50 16.80 20.61 12.36 13, 440 .■'67,840 9,221 4 28 1 50 44 .50 6.62 9.81 8.32 1,324 12, 022 416 79 80. 81 .3 48 26 1 44 15. 97 24. 69 3,859 28,600 230 266 109 47 48 46 S 9.34 8.62 9.41 100, 996 106, 411 46, 968 Ki 3 1 42 50 13.92 4.90 1,740 246 84 85. 1 1 lU MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 12.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN EACH CLASS CLASSES BY STATES AND TEKHITOEIES. AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS— Continued. Operatives and skilled— Continued. Unskilled. Children. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Number. 2,664 Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earn- ings per employs. Total wages. Number. Average number of - weeks employed. Average weekly earn- ings per employ^. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. ffil Hosiery and knitting mills . . 45 $3.05 $367,395 799 46 $8.70 $317, 387 85 48 -fi' 250 84 46 42 21 50 47 49 48 49 1.94 3.20 2.32 3.50 2.13 24, 300 12, 707 5,265 7,000 2,200 1 45 5 19 15 50 49 46 49 48 6.00 10.01 6.17 7.85 6.39 300 22, 071 1,375 7,322 4,580 57 48 27 63 37 35 24 13 461 177 l(i 25 4 34 17 21 22 10 12 149 72 17 23 14 33 14 16 13 6 14 384 112 18 84 24 12 24 25 15 8 7 266 47 1» 772 718 632 480 221 186 59 104 3,310 455 30 415 41.1 252 251 257 191 83 69 2,783 1,057 21 2,100 1,007 1,399 2,222 1,163 730 396 413 11, 538 2,933 22 2 3 4 15 20 7 1 3 147 107 3S 72 66 66 71 96 64 40 67 1,120 624 24 7 15 28 33 28 21 11 25 31 6 2b 2.017 2,324 2,352 3,078 2,832 1,686 531 501 16,931 3,869 2B 1,350 1,650 1,277 1,052 666 415 135 184 6,634 1,419 27 27 9 16 16 20 35 9 13 417 339 2S 8 13 15 27 11 20 7 4 156 50 2» 16 21 17 35 16 16 7 10 155 51 30 272 137 108 107 90 78 40 . 24 867 231 31 30 19 20 16 19 20 2 3 221 145 32 21 04 3 79 7 89 14 57 18 71 15 67 1 32 96 959 60 645 33 53 34 5 10 6 2 4 3 47 29 3'> b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not he disclosed. distributed as follows : Colorado, 2 ; Florida, 1 ; Idaho, 1 ; Kansas, 2 ; Nebraska, 1 ; South Carolina, 1 ; South Dakota, 2 ; "Washington, 1. These establishments are 148 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 13.— AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYES AT THE DIFFEEENT WEEKLY BATES OF PAY 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 I 21 22 ■23 ■24 as 36 •27 •28 29 30 31 38 33 34 33 WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS. AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK — Cont'd. STATES AND TERRITORIES. Females .ibove 15 jears — Continued. $5 and over but under $6. The United Statea . Alabama Arlsansas -- California — Connecticut. Delaware . . . Georgia . . Illinois Indiana . . . Iowa Kentucky^ Louisiana Maine Maryland Massacbusetts ■ Michigan Minnesota Mississippi Missouri New Hampsbire . New Jersey New "York Nortb Carolina . Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania... Rhode Island . Tennessee Texas Utah Vermont Virginia West Virginia . . Wisconsin All other states. 17, 098 $6 and over but under $7. 140 728 3 65 1 331 118 I 16 512 158 310 16 2,912 110 36 152 203 626 1,052 3,790 8 343 1 3,189 1,918 34 40 37 88 43 17 83 10 14, 739 2 48 672 11 21 348 383 35 2,909 130 23 120 5 1,430 236 2,113 24 6b 5 4,471 1,028 17 48 44 ; 243 22 12 122 7 $7 and over but under $8. 48 756 $3 and over but under $9. 420 317 63 2,207 13 14 1,211 14 1 500 249 1,216 1 49 14 2,068 661 17 8 14 121 11 1 53 1 142 135 4 1,462 I 1,014 6 5 2 42 $9 and over but under $10. 6 , 20 $10 and over but under $12. 92 I 594 7 22 276 1 934 433 2 1,991 36 426 10 1 52 31 257 3 18 $12 and over but under $15. 837 138 5 2 40 TEXTILES— WOOL. IN ALL CLASSES OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890-Contiimed. ,149 WEEKLT KATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVEEAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH BATE, INCLUDIKG OFFICEKS, KIUM MEMBEES, AND CLEBKS, BDT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— COntinuecl. Females above 15 years— Contimicd. Children. I'1ECE\\ Average num- ber. 46.246 9 OHKERS. $15 and over but under $20. 90 $20 and over but under $25. 17 . .c ,. $2.'> and over. 4 Total number. Under $5. 12, 56J $5 and over but under $6. $6 and over -$7 and over but under $7. ] but under $8. Total \va;;<-s. 12,948 333 42 10 $13, 208, 577 250 3 24 526 39 71 69 132 16 178 250 3 19 .-.01) 39 71 69 132 16 178 $1, 078 5 5 5 • 17 63 2, 284 125 166 604 1,032 24 222 100 489 252 5, 947 462 101 72 49 1,859 963 11,465 115 1.191 140 14, 654 1.971 40 32 19, 661 ■ 630 OH'* 44! 528 19,967 : 110 376 I 2 1 1 185, 756 6,276 58, 144 4,705 139, 985 33, 646 1, 915, 203 69, 125 29, 453 23. 032 10, 274 488, 636 236, 146 3, 329, 354 10, 965 256, 763 64, 865 4,673,486 558, 506 3,475 18, 150 l' 150 68 1.689 30 1 224 59 225 290 1,952 60 196 23 4,597 1 , 742 116 41 19 41 30 11 72 4 142 fi " 68 1,595 30 1 23 63 1 31 224 59 188 278 1,876 57 188 21 4,506 1,719 109 41 19 39 30 11 72 i 1 1 37 12 1 1 14 5 70 2 1 1 ^ 15 2 8 2 10 3 1 3 2 2 87 . 2 91 5 2 1 12 2 1 192 14 31 1.525 63 66, 199 2,065 5,178 181, 765 21, 133 1 2 1 j 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 150 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 14.— AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOY:eS AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY RATES OF 56 57 58 59 CLASSES BY STATES AND TERRITORIES. Woolen mills - Alabama Arkansas ... Califoruia ... Connecticut , Delaware Georgia . . . Illinois Indiana . . . Iowa Kentncky . Maine Maj^yland Mass acliu setts . Michigan Minnesota Missouri . New Harapsliire. New Jersey New York North Carolina- Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania . . Rhode Island. -- Tennessee Texas Utah Vermont . . Virginia West Virginia Wisconsin All other states {h) . Worsted mills . Connecticut Massachusetts ... New Hampshire . New J ersey New York Pennsylvania Rhode Island All other states (&) . Carpet mills (other than rag) . Massachusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania All other states (b) . Felt mills . Massachusetts New York Ohio Pennsylvania All other states (ft) . Wool hat mills. Massachusetts New York Pennsylvania AU other states (6) . WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AMD AVEEAGE NUMBEE OP EMPLOYES AT EACH BATE, INCLUD- ING OFFICEES, FIEM MEMBEES, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWOEK. {a) Numljer establish- ments. Average number. Total wages. Males above 16 years. 1 Total ■n_,i„-«r; $5aDaover $6 and over ' number. but under $6. but under $7. 1,311 79,351 $28, 478, 931 42, 705 3,700 2,662 6,734 6 16 31 3, 125 6 231 11 16 4 2 6 6 1 8 1,264 287, 668 914 5 156 328 55 5, 173 2, 035, 462 3,223 206 178 539 3 297 103, 395 94 2 6 15 14 179 32, 401 81 18 5 16 23 914 313, 780 467 66 18 82 45 2,103 600, 062 873 182 55 99 14 378 133, 240 183 8 13 13 40 1,803 554, 544 792 264 76 86 75 4,323 1, 629, 888 2,683 146 88 378 9 383 123,931 197 4 13 12 165 19, 813 7, 586, 575 11, 860 813 767 1,833 32 518 156, 128 282 64 14 52 21 341 120, 967 192 12 20 36 7 1,082 306, 270 402 16 14 240 35 510 122, 410 264 13 5 43 46 4.189 1,643,168 2,455 98 118 300 21 4,228 1,481,315 2,062 231 26 606 91 2,969 1. 046, 778 1,484 164 69 202 27 324 65, 329 166 82 23 13 64 1,032 294, 365 507 105 41 77 6 402 175, 313 208 1 17 22 264 16, 061 5,729,982 7,442 653 606 709 40 6,028 2, 297, 416 3, 29'J 173 166 565 49 998 239, 657 426 127 29 124 4 359 138,795 130 2 15 8 9 274 104, 158 166 4 17 12 29 1,585 625, 440 937 46 36 188 35 444 117,023 284 90 46 61 30 287 61, 919 162 36 19 34 32 982 324, 772 446 85 14 33 6 61 17, 436 15,880,183 28 3 1 143 43, 593 18, 549 1,384 1,088 2,070 10 2,261 875, 372 1,267 34 67 112 33 12, 021 4, 556, 997 5,321 627 257 733 4 1.963 678,552 750 10 31 76 6 954 284, 102 335 78 22 11 16 3,953 1, 481, 194 1,598 174 176 173 41 9,453 3, 360, 113 3,319 160 226 171 28 11, 757 ,4, 263, 968 5,403 256 318 700 5 1,231 389,885 556 45 2 94 173 29, 121 11, 633, 116 11, 998 990 624 808 7 5,144 1,892,072 2,291 491 136 367 6 585 212, 554 297 36 12 20 15 8,954 3, 345, 165 3,268 197 141 93 142 12,674 5, 509, 805 5,322 162 323 79 3 1,764 673, 620 820 104 12 49 34 2,266 1,041,296 1,476 83 36 145 7 340 140,528 298 25 5 47 11 820 361, 944 498 15 9 39 4 183 92, 161 124 19 6 1 3 176 111, 682 83 2 3 9 747 334, 981 473 24 14 65 32 3,592 1,363,944 1,648 234 118 206 7 1,045 482, 602 646 29 29 75 5 997 361, 512 391 62 17 23 17 1,049 330, 050 499 126 ; 66 87 3 501 189, 780 213 1 17 6 21 a In comparing the table of weekly rates and the number of employes at each rate with the average weekly earnings presented in Table 12 it must be remembered that it is not practicable to obtain true average weekly earnings from the table of w eekly rates, because the term of employment varies for employes at the respective rates. TEXTILES— WOOL. PAY IN EACH CLASS OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITOEIES: 1890. J51 WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYlSS AT EACH BATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— Continued. Males above 16 years— Continued. Females above 15 years. $7 and over but under $8. 7,039 $8 and over but under $9. $9 and over but under $10. $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. $15 and over but under $20. $20 and over but under $25. $25 and over. Total number. Under $5. 7,598 5,286 5,168 4,488 3,497 2,389 892 861 25, 753 1 2 1 60 1 4 - .^ 68 2 2 59 4 12 303 4 10 25 2 2 79 3 67 38 28 26 4 691 442 461 308 233 145 63 57 1,680 376 b 22 5 12 13 6 9 3 2 39 23 6 17 2 2 3 8 4 5 1 56 22 7 42 44 40 82 33 34 16 10 381 191 8 116 42 109 90 67 49 34 30 769 546 9 26 17 26 16 23 24 11 6 165 75 10 82 35 38 52 44 60 21 34 039 97 11 443 389 472 342 183 143 56 43 1,339 330 12 131 2,130 6 1,643 10 1,575 8 1, 342 7 862 2 521 4 215 118 6,018 4 1,552 13 i59 14 37 12 18 51 19 16 7 2 173 88 lb 21 4 34 15 13 21 7 6 77 52 16 22 14 33 14 16 13 6 14 384 112 17 84 24 12 23 23 16 6 6 170 41 18 553 331 420 274 153 106 31 71 1,480 247 19 249 254 153 144 195 108 42 45 1,964 578 20 239 125 283 124 131 98 36 33 986 368 21 2 3 4 14 19 2 1 3 112 93 22 45 36 41 43 51 35 14 19 360 195 23 7 15 28 33 28 21 11 25 31 6 21 1,048 1,121 778 783 896 562 151 135 4,798 1,128 25 696 471 347 412 227 124 54 66 1,873 440 26 27 9 16 16 20 35 9 13 417 339 27 8 13 15 27 11 20 7 4 166 60 28 16 20 17 35 16 11 7 10 95 26 29 218 U)3 86 82 68 65 27 18 575 194 30 20 9 12 9 16 16 2 3 116 100 31 19 57 2 51 7 46 14 45 17 47 13 33 1 15 83 373 48 220 H'>, 20 33 1_ 2,654 5 2,801 10 2,818 1 2,393 2 1,580 3 1,008 2 340 29 17, 755 18 4,649 34 413 35 264 147 212 256 94 53 19 20 662 118 36 1,108 465 708 456 538 217 83 129 5,073 1,177 37 71 336 78 116 14 11 1 6 1,188 153 38 15 26 35 71 22 38 13 4 503 320 39 215 106 174 210 168 101 56 46 1,543 660 40 265 389 64^ 067 307 316 97 79 4,108 1,191 41 630 1,150 894 599 421 261 67 107 4,325 901 42 86 182 75 j 19 16 11 4 22 353 129 43 1,654 1,067 1,028 2,842 1,859 662 249 225 10, 751 1,680 44 129 270 200 193 272 139 60 34 2,264 946 45 99 67 26 14 5 ; 8 5 6 61 37 46 650 197 128 1,338 254 62 43 65 4,123 382 47 519 493 617 1,216 1,186 410 131 87 3,711 218 48 257 40 57 81 143 33 10 34 602 97 49 259 192 201 181 152 75 66 86 360 130 50 88 26 40 31 19 7 5 5 34 27 .51 71 76 113 51 48 35 17 24 139 42 .52 10 7 17 20 26 5 1 13 3U 12 i 53 7 24 18 61 18 42 4 24 6 37 25 19 6 133 3I54 90 83 47 55 200 118 253 156 129 128 45 61 626 226 56 .57 63 24 119 65 36 69 14 22 196 56 67 28 68 14 45 35 6 26 44 32 .58 47 39 35 37 34 9 16 3 149 98 .59 23 27 31 40 14 15 9 10 137 40 60 b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the onerations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows- Woolen goods, Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; Louisiana, 1; oouth Carolina, 1; South Bakota, 2. Worsted goods, Kentucky, 2; Maine, 1; Ohio, 1; Wisconsin, 1. Carpets, Connecticut, 2; Ehode Island, 1. Felt goods, Connecticut, 2 ; Indiana,l; Maine.l; Michigan,li New Hampshire, 2 ; Kew Jersey, 2. Wool hats, Connecticut, 3; Maine, 1. 152 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 14.— AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYES AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY KATES OF PAY WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PA OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, ID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH RATE iND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK , INCLUDING —cont'd. ULASSEK BY STATES AND TEliKITORIEy. Females above 15 years— Continued. $5 and over but under $6. $6 and over but under $7. $7 and over but under $8. $8 and over but under $9, $9 and over but under $10. $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. 5,332 5,093 3,937 2,126 1,079 453 108 Alabama Arkansas 2 38 277 11 California 136 267 3 33 39 94 15 512 240 16 953 30 21 152 115 233 796 212 2 67 1 865 265 34 40 22 64 13 17 45 10 4,024 38 230 28 318 29 151 48 4 2 Delaware ' Georgia ^ Illinois 66 59 47 15 275 35 1.022 35 3 120 4 496 171 175 9 53 5 1,477 431 17 46 24 148 2 11 17 31 37 9 8 269 63 1,247 3 15 9 4 2 98 17 10 5 ■i 91 2 3 Iowa Keutuckv 2" 34 1 Mq,Tylq,nrt "lVrn,ssa,r.hnRp.t,ts 720 8 315 4 155 5 48 Minnesota , 1 1 302 235 146 1 44 14 780 325 17 8 14 63 1 1 44 8 105 131 56 1 1 4 347 207 6 5 2 26 1 28 30 5 3 61 22 22 3 8 New York Ohio 1 123 143 2 42 57 34 5 1 Texas 5 2 16 3 56 2 \ Vermont Virginia 6 19 "Wisconsin 18 7 1 424 33 59 21 2 All other states 4,108 1,664 1,52.=; 51 295 1 4 86 284 794 10 1,108 670 37 81 11 70 191 1.275 283 156 137 1,070 1,442 70 3,344 111 1,343 697 16 436 893 512 100 1,665 121 810 22 7 53 300 307 44 1,503 Massachusetts 23 New York 64 193 284 61 173 77 37 3 7 Rhode Island. -. . . All other states 843 752 51 Massachusetts , 472 12 2,314 482 64 66 342 2 442 782 97 128 76 113 111 194 8 521 598 308 33 390 583 22 2 73 450 9 1 552 5 43 Felt mills 1 7 3 25 3 18 111 69 1 24 1 1 Ohio 58 84 43 2 10 29 8 26 2- .14 26 5 10 4 ^^ 1^ 9 2 4 38 2 27 44 ~ 6 1 4 15 31 4 New York All otter states 3 2 TEXTILES— WOOL. IN EACH CLASS OF WOOL MANUFACTUEE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. 153 V\rEEKLY KATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVBEAGE NUMBER OC EMPLOYES AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEJIBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— Continued. PIECEW DRKERS. Females above 15 years — Continued. Children. $15 and over but under $20. 23 $2u and over but under $25. $25 and over. Total number, "Dnder $5. $5 and over bnt under .$6. 138 $6 and over but under $7. 17 $7 and over but under $8. ■ Average number. Total wages. $2,042,091 2 2 4,367 4,202 10 : 6,526 1 1 180 3. 24 141 ; 39 25 34 108 16 178 88 68 707 29 1 224 59 154 78 191 29 60 23 1,490 349 116 41 14 36 30 11 7 4 8,791 3 19 128 39 26 24 108 16 178 80 68 678 29 1 224 59 134 66 177 26 52 21 1,469 326 109 4] 14 36 30 11 7 4 3,653 I 1 2 3 6 13 I 1 23 129 125 18 42 363 24 194 213 7,241 41, 246 44,528 2,385 9,658 83, 165 6,276 50, 404 71, 551 1 1 ! ■ ' 1 ■ 1 1 ! 1 6 2 6 20 9 i,228 34 71 72 27 100 134 309 17 105 140 2,331 516 32 401, 340 11.246 23, 350 23. 032 6,499 31, 724 25, 079 95, 198 1,505 27,468 54, 865 793, 261 158, 166 3,475 18,150 ■ 20 12 9 1 1 1 i 4 1 2 ! 8 2 '2 2 19 21 5 2 2 8 37 14 31 166 12 983 2,066 6,178 31, 873 1 20 1 116 •.'2 3,498 i, 326, 490 162 716 16 78 285 1,067 1,346 143 1,806 148 659 15 78 253 1,012 1,346 143 1,792 4 35 180 911 10 38 527 969 684 179 4,566 49, 444 373, 116 1,200 20,780 176, 913 442, 419 194, 168 68, 461 1,795,754 10 22 9 32 45 1 1 , 1 '' 5 1 14 1 1 2 ■137 137 452 237 847 2,830 200 317 163, 867 65, 370 312, 070 1,200,419 54,d28 120, 277 716 811 142 123 706 807 142 122 10 4 1 3 , 1 1 8 40 18 38 24 150 8 39 13 38 24 1 1 143 7 50 117 1,268 50, 080 1,200 20, 874 48, 123 494,875 2 145 ^ 30 36 79 _i 2 35 36 79 269 626 822 151 130, 450 162, 130 136, 950 65, 345 i : : 1 ;;;;;;;!!;!!;;;!"••■• ' 154 MANUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 14.— AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYfiS AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY RATES OF PAY CLASSES BY STATES AND TERRITORIES. Hosiery and knitting mills . Alabama Connecticut . Georgia Jllinois Indiana Number of establisb- ments- Iowa Louisiana Maine Maryland Massachusetts . Michigan Minnesota Missouri iNew Hampshire - New Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio Pennsylvania . . . Bhode Island . . . Utah "Vermont "Wisconsin All other states (a) . 796 7 37 15 201 5 U 236 16 5 10 23 U AGGREGATES. Average number. 61, 209 412 3,134 349 1,878 962 284 260 306 4,676 848 129 125 3,178 1,277 20, 299 184 1,898 16, 941 1,638 70 718 2,296 Total wages. $18, 263, 272 64, 838 1, 073, 135 71, 952 545, 109 207, 519 2,550 51, 841 30, 165 61, 466 1, 495, 260 208, 344 46, 356 34, 477 989, 130 342, 600 6, 437, 308 30, 410 466, 630 4, 732, 754 487, 350 17, 020 269, 844 449, 724 147, 490 WEEKLY BATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOyfiS AT EACH RATE, INCLUD- ING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK. Males above 16 years. Total number. 13,201 44 349 137 3 26 861 155 27 7 756 371 6,798 20 168 2,507 283 Under $5. and over batunder$6. 12 174 16 and over butunder$7. 1 4 56 14 1 1 47 60 456 2 7 1,566 97 73 956 8 20 115 31 a Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows : Califomia, 2; Colorado, 2; Florida, 1; Kansas, 1; Kentucky, 2; Nebraska, Ij Virginia, 2; "Washington, I ; "West Virginia, 2. TEXTILES— WOOL. IN EACH CLASS OF WOOL MANUFACTURE, BY STATES AND TEKRITOEIES: 1890— Continued. 155 WBEKLy KATES OF WASES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH BATE, IKCLDDINO OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLEBKS, BDT NOT THOSE EMPLOVED ON piEOEWOKK— Continued. Males above 16 years— Continxied Females above 15 years. $7 and over but under $8. $8 and over but under $9. $9 and over but under SfilO. $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. $15 and over but under $20. $20 and over but under $25. $25 and over. Total number. Under $5. 1,631 1,131 1,543 1,289 1,367 1,231 605 655 15,226 4,824 61 1 131 9 24 34 1 160 5 83 2 26 12 1 92 2 67 14 2 1 , 90 3 31 15 1 42 6 12 11 129 578 111 922 134 6 1.58 84 17 641 270 72 96 617 250 4,704 35 709 4,160 436 60 292 544 201 114 143 33 257 102 4 62 90 8 11 4 40 63 64 44 3 35 7 65 66 67 1 2 4 1 6 1 8 32 10 6 1 26 9 219 68 80 17 100 77 20 6 43 122 1,449 14 407 1,232 78 25 37 383 81 69 2 95 14 1 1 55 86 6 144 4 2 94 G 2 1 73 6 485 1 6 357 41 2 105 7 8 2 48 19 .■507 1 18 392 17 3 87 8 1 4 28 17 3 2 25 15 238 70 71 72 73 74 142 41 868 48 9 475 133 28 033 63 27 399 5 23 385 30 4 13 32 7 V5 76 77 78 12 138 24 1 " 282 29 1 ! 34 j 27 12 5 273 36 25 130 14 31 172 11 79 80 81 82 • 64 36 15 22 42 8 25 11 29 22 22 19 is 17 I 6 28 7 83 84 85 156 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 14.— AVERAGE NUMBER OP" EMPLOYES AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY RATES OF PAY CLASSES BY STATES AND TERRITORIFF. WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOY^ AT EACH RATE, INCLUD- ING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— continued. $5 and over l)ut under $6. 3,031 Females above 15 years— Continued. $6 and over but under $7. $7 and over but under $8. $8 and over but under $9. $9 and over but under $10. $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. fil 3,661 1.420 768 ua 349 71 3 156 • 32 272 24 1 158 5 71 25 (i1 7 26 fi? Connecticut 146 21 ■'82 1.^ 11 8 fi'i 25 1 15 6 1 fif\ Indiana 5 ' 3 fi7 1 1 1 m Z 2 70 1 167 79 15 88 100 87 1.122 6 251 742 211 15 24 38 40 159 1 68 ."i? ' 80 9 5 3 90 i 10 6 3 20 ! 14 1 2 i 1 79 1 234 1 75 176 36 21 3 1 188 3 33 7 989 471 77 328 112 36 7^ 15 9 1 TO Ohio 4 2 248 18 70 4 1 6 6 HO 1. 300 I 386 86 29 168 8"" 13 1 6 1 Q9 Utah 20 95 106 43 R1 68 9 20 16 30 24 6 2 4 1 2 1 5 ^p^ 5 TEXTILES— WOOL. 157 IN EACH CLASS OF WOOL MANUB^ACTURE, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1890— Continued. WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYltS AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— continued. PIECEWORKERS. Females ab $15 and over but under $20, 40 ove 15 years— Continued. , 1 Total number. Children. inaGr.1,5. butunderite. $6 and over but under $7. $7 and over but under $8. Average num- ber. Total wages. 15 1 1 9 711 2,649 59 3 30, 071 $7, 429, 090 61 250 86 46 250 • 86 46 45 2? 8 1 IQH 6' 2 1 571 4ns'.™ 63 ' 1 148 562 669 17- 582 100, 718 102, 591 64 2 1 j::;;::. ..:::.;! 45 65 22 66 ' 67 1 ii 100 170 252 4,705 17, 240 33. 646 68 69 i 70 3 86 1 83 T 3 3, 087 846. 431 71 422 30 22 1,749 539 9,113 98 979 8,152 771 56, 029 6,103 4,775 455, 712 K 117,417 2,532,963 9,460 193. 095 2, 079, 563 206, 182 7? 73 74 1 56 117 684 31 42 1,122 48 B 5 65 39 117 665 31 42 1.101 48 5 3 65 17 * 75 76 4 5 18 ' 1 1 77 78 15 5 2 2 3 2 1 7<» 1 19 1 2 80 1 81 8' 4 2 155 1,361 113 53, 216 146, 521 35,053 S3 1 M 3 85 158 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 15.— CUSTOM CARDING MILLS IN THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. Note. — In the preceding tables the data relating to custom carding mills are included with statistics of woolen mills. Number of establish- ments. The United States.. - Alabama. - Arkansas . Georgia. . . Indiana... Iowa Kentucky -. Maine Michigan ... Minnesota . . Mississippi . Missouri New Hampshire . New York North Carolina .. Ohio Pennsylvania. Tennessee Vermont Virginia "West Virginia "Wisconsin All other states (a) . Value of hired property. 193 $18, 065 200 800 4,750 1,000 2,615 3,100 1,300 500 600 Direct investment. Total. $385, 411 6.825 11,635 3,025 36, 765 4,700 23, 156 55, 050 18, 295 11, 475 3,200 21, 799 5,925 .54, 475 10, 810 14, 020 25, 233 17, 953 8,585 10, 010 10, 190 9,655 18, 730 Land, buildings and ma- chinery. $348, 207 6,760 10, 800 3,025 34, 065 4,700 21, 202 43, 476 16, 170 11, 126 3,200 18, 496 5,725 62, 295 10, 580 12, 470 21, 035 17, 066 7,810 15, 450 8,500 8,660 15, 630 Live assets. $37, 204 75 835 2,700 1,954 11, 575 2,125 350 3,304 200 2,180 230 1,560 4,198 898 775 560 1,690 905 1,100 Miscella- neous ex penses. $13, 802 123 262 129 912 106 952 2,182 888 1,166 56 1,007 316 1,142 397 706 877 467 795 616 351 AVEEAGE NDMBEE OF EMPLOTj^S AND TOTAL WAGES. Aggregates. Average number. 416 23 Total $61, 818 1,465 1,237 600 3,451 2,000 5,076 8,164 4,186 3,950 1,150 2,003 1,240 4,871 2,071 3,125 2,843 4,386 1,650 1,477 1,460 2,189 3,075 Males above 16 years. 354 Females above 16 years. 47 Children. Cost of materials used. $332, 650 7,085 5,173 17, 280 11, 052 46, 894 41. 819 19, 931 14, 422 4,575 14, 819 8,443 23, 126 12,240 7,397 16, 782 27, 832 9,133 5,816 9,943 6,035 19, 364 Value of products. $476, 278 5,180 9,250 7,200 23, 738 14, 600 62. 920 64,633 29,109 20, 951 6,260 21, 630 12, 200 33, 822 1.7, 911 11, 763 24,600 38, 135 12, 783 9,300 13, 770 9,305 27, 528 aincludes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not he disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows : Illinois, 2 ; Maryland, 1 ; Massachusetts, 1 ; Oregon, 1 ; South Carolina, 1 ; Texas, 1 ,■ Utah, 1. TEXTILES— WOOL. Table 16.— IDLE CAPITAL AND MACHINERY, BY STATES: 1890. 159 Number of establish- ments. Total California Connecticut Illinois Indiana Iowa Kansas Maine Massachusetts Michigan Missouri New Hampshire , . . New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio Pennsylvania Ehode Island Tennessee Virginia West Virginia Wisconsin All other statea (6) 267 Total. $6, 100, 860 225, 000 635, 408 24,300 83, 125 177, 350 47, 600 126, 200 1, 184, 110 195, 556 23, 100 121, 600 255, 000 899, 711 19,440 99, 100 1, 265, 4G0 294, 500 25,500 29, 500 10, 200 163, 300 195, 800 $841, 916 Buildings, $2, 273, 239 Machinery, tools, and implements. $2, 985, 705 126,000 262, 908 9,900 44, 900 93, 800 23. 000 86, 200 615, 565 81, 105 15, 800 53, 400 194, 200 349, 411 7,800 47, 700 654, 100 96, 000 11, 000 12, 000 2,700 103, 216 95, 000 MACHINERY. Sets of cards. 613 9 41 6 17 16 6 25 135 15 113 2 18 116 30 5 Comb- ing ma SpindJes. chines. Looms. 172, 634 2,815 3,620 840 3,923 4,180 2,646 3,830 34, 798 1,282 1,760 4,100 24, 654 3,240 4,204 48,124 13, 572 1,930 950 600 5,270 5,408 »3, 018 19§ 24 74 5 62 770 12 28 52 194 411 5 70 635 208 42 14 18 6 94 Knitting ma- chines. 1,821 20 1 45 18 318 426 391 40 172 56 25 12 57 16 a Includes 34 hand looms. 6 Includes states in which there were less than 3 establishments that were reported as idle during thecensus year, in order that the value of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments were located as follows: Arkansas, 1; Delaware, 1: Georgia, Ij Kentucky, 1; Maryland, 2; Minnesota, 2; Nebraska, 1; Texas, 1 ; Utah, 1 ; Vermont, 2. ICO MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 17.— SHODDY MANUFACTURE, The United States . 9 10 11 I Connecticut Illinois Massachusetts New Hampshire New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Khode Island All other states (b) . Number of establish' ments. Direct in-vestment. Value of plant. Value of , hired I i property. ,i„„,,„,te. Total. $457,713 II $3,754,063 6,650 8,000 36, 200 10, 463 160, 000 6,500 12, 000 144, 000 62, 500 11. 400 395, 336 110, 037 902, 850 23, 000 193, 225 482, 520 744, 530 640, 382 194, 250 67, 933 $1, 675, 801 152, 666 63, 100 445, 412 14, 500 78, 900 239, 261 165, 530 359, 432 119, 600 38, 400 Land. Build- ings. $265, 500 $556, 990 72, 275 23, 500 161, 854 2,600 25, 400 92, 461 40, 000 97, 500 20, 000 21, 500 Machiu- ery, tools, and im- plements. $853, 311 65, 491 32, 000 196, 358 11, 000 39, 000 98, 000 95, 530 211, 932 90, 600 13. 400 Live assets. Total. $2, 078, 262 242, 670 47, 937 457, 438 8,500 114, 325 243, 269 579, 000 280, 950 74, 650 29, 633 Raw ma- terials. Stock in process and finished products on hand. $923, 209 142, 500 15, 500 157, 597 2,000 31, 600 107, 763 311, 000 126, 899 19, 000 9,350 $294, 781 45, 100 10, 000 92, 320 1,000 25, 000 32, 770 32, 000 40, 141 9,460 7,000 Cash, biUs and accounts receivable, and all sundries not else- where re- ported. iO, 272 55, 070 22, 437 207, 521 5, .500 57, 725 102, 726 236, 000 113, 910 46, 200 13, 183 Operatives and skilled— Continued. The TTnited States . - Connecticut Illinois Massachusetts - . . New Hampshire . New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Khode Island All other states . . AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES — continued. Chil- dren. "Wages. 172, 335 71, 023 29, 754 147, 339 10, 650 33, 805 56, 981 157, 500 102, 295 48, 256 14, 732 Unskilled. above I 16 ' years. Fe- males above 15 years. 1 3 I 'ii'l "Wages. $34, 764 5,274 1,800 3,080 5,100 14, 164 3,260 564 Steam. Boilers. (Num- ber.) 89 En- gines. (Num- ber.) 24 ! 5 Horse power. 4,312 188 215 1,040 260 310 640 1,256 283 120 "Water. Water wheels. Num- ber. Horse power. 1,075 Turbine wheels. Num- I Horse ber. ] power. 310 380 50 15 40 130 1,617 20 1 4 6l 799 30 130 303 220 Other power. Num- ber of motors. Horse power. STATES. MATERIALS USED — continued. Sho Pounds. 45, 136, 841 Idy. Cost. $3, 447, 172 Waste and Pounds. wool noils. Cost. $1,801,290 40, 300 1 Camel's hair and noils. All other animal hair. Raw tiotton. Pounds. 405, 000 Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. 24,000 Cost. $2, 260 23 The United Stated .... 10, 997, 044 $29, 300 30, 000 $900 '■I 4, 420, 000 3, 796, 000 13,672,070 1, 008, 700 1, 960, 000 1,610,171 5, 205, 000 8,333,900 3, 316, 000 1. 815. 000 339. 100 100.413 992, 656 65, 176 116, 900 158, 506 684, 000 631, 140 281, 300 77, 981 685, 000 14,000 ; 1,160 95 Illinois 1>6 283, 587 45, 000 1 776, 400 1 2,492,000 500, 000 4, 004, 957 2, 210, 100 91, 485 8,200 171, 000 166, 765 280, 000 317, 160 736, 400 27 New Hampshire New Jersey i m w New York 30 Ohio ' 31 Pennsylvania 405, 000 29, 300 30, 000 900 3? Rhode Island .... 10,000 i i, ioo j 33 1 -L___ i a IncUides pieceworkern and their wages. TEXTILES— WOOL. 161 BY STATES: 1890. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. Rent paid for ten- ancy. 26, 099 11,610 62, 687 1,795 20, 160 11, 610 28, 266 50, 305 22, 278 3,264 $32,. 400 400 2, 950 875 8. 5110 ()5li 1.200 12. U7 4, 546 820 Taxes. $13, 084 1,391 395 5,268 180 900 1,068 1,646 1.273 622 341 Insurance. Repairs, or-! dinary, of ! buildings and ma- chinery. I Interest paid on cash used in the busi- ness. $28, 554 3,027 544 6,748 190 725 2,307 5,600 6,206 3,197 10 $53. 814 $24, 858 7,029 ■ 525 18, 274 550 2.375 2,280 2.100 12. 863 6.200 1,618 5,320 4,500 2,004 1,500 3,185 6, 500 l,6.'!fi 1.113 100 Sundries not else- where re- ported. $85, 296 8,932 5,246 27, 443 6, 1.50 2,150 12, 220 16,180 6.600 375 AVERAGE NU.MBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. Aggregate.s. Average number. 180 114 435 25 127 192 696 339 146 45 Total wages. $856, 582 85, 816 36, 254 180, 718 11, 683 43, 755 77, .361 182, 700 151,175 68, 014 19, 076 Oificers, firm members, and clerks. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. $149, 483 13, 271 6,500 28, 135 1,033 8,150 17, 300 20, 100 34,716 16, 498 3,780 Operatives and skilled, (a) Fc- Malea I males above 16 , above years. 15 years. 849 139 37 288 24 00 132 : 167 I 181 ■ 121 . 25 ; 16 I 73 101 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 g 3 I 10 15 11 46 27 485 83 MACHINERY. Cards, (bets.) 47 12 167 12 19 36 43 62 Combing macliiues. Spindles. Looms on woolen goods. Foreign. American. Woolen. Broad. Narrow. 1 1 3,170 6 IC 510 6 2 to 10 1 450 1,970 !""■■ MATERIALS USED— COutinued. Yarns not made in niilL "W'oolen. Pounds. Cost. 10, 000 $4. 000 Pounds. Cost 25, 000 25, 000 m-' 10, 000 4,000 Gallons. Cost. 296, 221 12, 834 2,900 70, 333 2,175 16,209 13, 070 47,500 I 113. 000 1 14,020 4, 180 $89, 245 860 26, 552 1,050 4, 723 3,992 16, 900 24, 252 5,780 1,240 Soap. Pounds. 267. 200 22, 000 19, 000 22, 500 38, 200 1,250 5,000 56, 250 2,000 101, 000 Cost. $7, 075 700 480 450 1,080 25 100 1,150 70 3, 020 Chemi- cals and dye- stufTs. Cost. Fuel. $78, 519 7,596 is," 620 1,800 7,223 28, 900 16, 600 2,780 Total cost. .8, 751 Coal. Wood. Cost. Cost. $88, 291 10, 200 1,835 22, 769 6.765 6,576 14, 250 18, 026 6,555 2,315 1 Rent of power and heat. Cost. $5, 800 300 134 788 500 900 1,300 1,300 587 All other materials. Cost. $61 546 4,300 5,120 400 4,200 46. 510 950 66 6 Includes states bavin" less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed, are distributed as follows : California, 1; Maine, 2; Vermont, 1; Wisconsin, 1. These establishments 2457- -11 162 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tahlk 17 SHODDY MANUFACTURE, STATES. PRODUCTS. Aggregate value. Horse blankets all wool. Boot and shoe linings. Partly manufactured goods for sale. Total. Shoddy and mungo. Square yards. Value. Dozens. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. 1 The United States.... $7, 887, 000 30. 000 $24, 000 54, 000 .$20, 000 45, 999, 391 $7,750,997 37, 002, 054 $5,911,219 648, 060 182, 110 1,814,459 111,848 389, 640 471, 478 1, 377, 500 1, 633, 770 1, 350, 792 107, 343 30, 000 24,000 64, 000 20, 000 4, 337, 000 2, 528. 616 11, 384, 508 911,762 1, 616. 000 2,820,717 4, 800, 000 12, 317, 832 3,984,379 1, 298, 576 604, 060 167, 007 1. 614, 459 111,848 389, 640 411,578 1, 377, 500 1, 633, 770 1, 333, 192 107, 343 2,398,000 2, 528, 616 10, 018, 424 911, 763 1, 252, 000 2, 616, 000 i. 800, 000 9, 507, 875 1, 711, 000 1,258,376 390, 760 167, 607 1,418,817 111,818 ^ 315, 640 383, 200 1, 377, 500 1, 366, 063 274,741 104, 443 ^ niinois tS fi 7 8 q in n a Includes items as follows : rags, $14,503; batts, $59,900; custom work, $17,600. TEXTILES— WOOL. 163 BY STATES: 1890— Continued. PRODL-CTS— continnec . Partly nanufactured goods (or sale- -Continued. All other products, (a) Woolen yan — hU wool. "Woolen card rolls. i Worsted noils. Waste. Wool extract. Pounds. Value. $82, 432 Pounds. Value. 1 Pounds. Value. 500,000 i $335,000 < Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Value. $92, 003 443, 739 200 $100 4, 544, 597 $948, 026 3, 508, 801 $474, 220 t ' 139, Olio 17, 300 1, 800, 000 196, 000 91 1 "1 14, 503 S 1 166, 000 16, 600 1, 200, 084 179, 042 4 i> 364, 000 144, 717 74, 000 25,178 <> 60, 000 3,200 59, 900 T 8; 350, 000 93, 739 40, 000 42, 432 2, 459, 957 1,679,640 40, 000 237, 107 681, 019 2,800 <1 500, 000 335, 000 17, 600: 10, 200 100 Tl COTTON MANUFACTURE. BY EDWARD STANWOOD. The statistics pertaining to cotton manufacture prior to tlie census of 1840 are meagre and not altogether trustworthy. It was found impossible to reduce them to tabular form for the purpose of comparison with subsequent reports. Therefore, the figures for previous censuses shown in this report are confined to the past five decades. Table No. 1 is a resume of the statistics pertaining to the cotton industry from 1840 to 1890, inclusive, all the items that were common to a number of census reports being presented. The growth of the industry during the past ten years is shown in the following statement which presents the leading facts as reported by the censuses of 1890 and 1880: COTTON MANUFACTURE, SUMMARY : 1890 AND 1880. Number of establishments Capital Miscellaneoiia expenses Average number of employes (aggregate) . Total wages Officers, firm members, and clerks Total wages All other employes Total wages Cost of materials used Value of products JSTumber of active spindles Number of looms Bales of cotton consumed Pounds of cotton consumed 905 a $354, 020, 843 $16, 716, 524 221, 585 $69, 489, 272 2,709 $3, 464, 734 218, 876 $66, 024, 538 $151, 912, 970 $267, 981, 724 U, 188, 103 324, 866 2, 261, 600 1, 117, 945, 776 1880 756 $208, 280, 346 (b) 174, 659 $42, 040, 510 2,116 (i) 172, 544 $42, 040, 510 $102, 206, 347 $192, 090, 110 10, 653, 435 225, 759 1, 570, 344 750, 343, 981 Increase. 149 $145, 740, 497 46, 926 694 46, 332 $23, 984, 028 $52, 706, 632 $75, 891, 614 3, 534, 668 99, 107 691, 256 367, 601, 795 Per cent. 19.71 69.97 28.09 26.85 57.05 51.67 39.51 33.18 43.90 44.02 48.99 a Does not include the value of " Hired property "' b Not reported. In presenting the figures relative to cotton manufacture, it should be premised that the establishments here reported are exclusively those engaged in spinning or weaving raw cotton, together with those which convert the waste of cotton mills into a commercial product. The tables do not cover the operation of any establishments for the manufacture of hosiery and knit goods, nor any of those principally engaged in making elastic fabrics or cotton cordage and twines. Moreover, all mills in which mixed textiles are produced are excluded. An inspection of the table which shows the materials of manufacture discloses the fact that less than one-half of 1 per cent of the total value of the fiber entering into the materials of these mills was other than cotton. The comparison is made with those mills which were classed in the census report of the Tenth Census as " sjiecific cotton mills", from which category the special agent excluded "mills employed iu working raw cotton, waste, or cotton yarn into hose, webbing, tapes, fancy fabrics, or mixed goods, or other fabrics, which are not sold as specific manufactures of either cotton or wool". The comparison is, therefore, as nearly as possible, between the same classes of mills. But the facts regarding what were grouped under the head of " special mills *' in the report for the Tenth Census are now distributed among several classes of manufacture. CAPITAL. A comparison of capital employed in the industry in 1880 and 1890 is not to be relied upon as an indication of the increase that has actually taken place. The inquiry at the Tenth Census was not so minute as that employed in the present investigation. At the census of 1890 the purpose was to ascertain the actual value of the property at the time the report was made, whether real estate, stock on hand, or money and book accounts, and whether owned or borrowed. It is evident that the more detailed inquiry results in a considerable apparent increase of capital reported. In other words, it is believed the amount of capital now shown is much more nearly the real capital engaged iu the manufacture than that reported at the former census, and the indicated increase is considerably in excess of the real increase. 165 166 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Aside from the general importance of the item of capital, as a fact bearing upon the conditions of manufacturing, an importance which has no special significance as applied to the industry of cotton manufacturing, the statement of the value of land, buildings, and machinery possesses the largest interest. Were it possible to compare mills spinning the same number of yarn, of the same age, equally well kept up. In different parts of the country, the facts ascertained might be valuable to those who may be called upon to consider where is the best location for a contemplated new mill; but the establishments reported iiiclude mills, new and old, large and small, spinning yarn coarse and fine, equipped with the most modern machinery or flllesd with antiquated appliances. The value of plant to a spindle throughout the country appears to be $16.28. In New England the amount is $14.45; in the middle states, $20.21; in the southern states, $24.40; in the western states, $21.00. This statement, it should be observed, is to be modified, not only in the light of the facts just mentioned, but also, what Is very important, by giving due weight to the fact that all the mills, of which these amounts are an average, are not complete spinning and weaving mills. There are no official returns for any former period with which to compare these figures. The cost of mills per spindle has been the subject of private inquiry at various times. Perhaps the most extensive examination of the question was made by Mr. J. P. Harris-G-astrell, a former attach6 of the British legation at Washington, whose report on the subject of textile manufactures in the United States was presented to the British parliament in 1873. At that time the cost of constructing a miU, including the land, was estimated by him at $20 per spindle, in gold. Mr. David A. Wells' report, made in 1869, was quoted, to the effect that a cotton mill which could be built 10 years before for $15 to $17 a spindle, then (in 1869) cost $30 to $32 in currency per siMiidle, equivalent to $22.50 to $24.75 in gold. Mr. Harris-Gastrell gave several detailed estimates and authenticated statements as to the cost of mills then recently built, ranging from $15 without land to $18 and •$20 with real estate, and concluded that the average cost did not exceed $20, including land, this being cost in gold. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. The items which go to make up the miscellaneous expenses reported in cotton mills during the census year are as follows: Total $16, 716, 524 Rent paid for tenancy 488, 735 Taxes , 2,689,632 Insurance ...'. 1, 213, 322 Repairs, ordinary, of buildings and machinery 3, 987, 748 Interest paid on cash used in the business , . 4, 098, 435 Sundries, not elsewhere reported 4, 238, 652 The insignificance of the amount paid for rent is explained by the fact that the corporations operating the mills reported are almost invariably the owners of the land and buildings occupied by them. It probably is true that some of the large corporations of New England, whose treasurers and active managers have offices other than those at the mill, have included the rent of such offices with the sundry expenses reported above. The use of rented property for the installation of weaving machinery is a feature of the manufacture in the city of Philadelphia, which explains the circumstance that more than one-fourth of all the rent paid is credited to Pennsylvania. The taxes paid amount, for the whole country, to an average of 1.16 per cent of the total value of the plant. This is, perhaps, a somewhat lower rate than the local taxation upon real estate generally, and the difference is to be accounted for in part at least by the fact that municipalities are accustomed in some states to offer the inducement of exemption from all taxation for a term of years, in order to attract manufactures. The insurance paid averages 0.58 per cent on the value of buildings and machinery. The difference between the rates in the several geographical divisions of the country is quite marked. It is, in each case on the value of buildings and machinery, in New England 0.50 per cent; in the middle states 0.57 per cent; in the south 0.89 per cent; in the west 0.95 per cent. The explanation of this difierence is simple. The great New England corporations adopt in their mills a variety of costly appliances (which enter into the value of their plant) to protect themselves against fire, and having done so either take out no insurance or insui-e in mutual companies where the cost of the risk is reduced to a minimum by the i>ractice of these companies to insist upon the use of the appliances referred to. "Interest on cash used in the business" gives no exact information as to the amount of money borrowed. If we may estimate that the average rate was not far from 5 per cent, we shall be led to think that the corporations were debtors for cash employed in their business to an average amount of about 882,000,000, or not far from two-thirds of their live assets. The cost of repairs and the sundries, which complete the above list of miscellaneous expenses, call for no comment. TEXTILES— COTTON. 167 ITEMS IN COST OF MANUPACTUBB. Although the ascertainment of the profits of manufacturing is no part of the purpose of the Census inquiry, and although the facts which can be procured by an official examination must necessarily omit many items and circumstances which must be considered before the actual profits are disclosed, yet the omissions are now so much fewer than on any former occasion that we can certainly arrive at a nearer approximation to the truth regarding the margin of profit than ever before, as shown by the following statement: EXPKN8ER AND PRODUCT. Value o'f iiroducts $267, 981, 724 Cost of materials iisetl $154,912,979 Wages ^ 66,024,538 , Salaries of officers anil clerks 3, 464, 734 Miscellaneous expenses 16,716,524 241,118,775 Remainder 26, 862, 949 This remainder represents 7.59 i)er cent of the capital, excluding the value of hired property, but it represents much more than the actual profits of manufacturing. All capital expenditures, excepting rent and interest paid for cash used in business, are excluded from the items entering into the cost of i)roduction. Ordinary repairs are included, but all renewals and expenditures on account of depreciation of machinery are omitted. The cost of renewal takes a large percentage of nominal profits in a cotton spinning mill. An allowance of 3 per cent of the value of the buildings and machinery is a moderate one. This would be a gross sum of $6,233,054. Reducing the $26,802,949 shown above by this sum the remainder will be $20,629,895, which is 5.83 per cent on the reported capital. The general relation of the components entering into the selling price of the products of this manufacture may be indicated by the statement that 43.81 per cent represents the cost of the raw cotton consumed, and 14.00 per cent the cost of other materials, so that 57.81 per cent of the whole value consists of materials. The miscellaneous expenses of manufacture stand for 6.24 per cent; labor, including salaries of officers and clerks, for 25.93 per cent, and 10.02 per cent is left to cover the depreciation of plant and the return of a profit to the owners. The following table exhibits a division of the selling price of commodities between these several elements of cost, for each of the geographical divisions of the country: PERCENTAGES OP DIFFERENT ELEMENTS IN COST OF MANUFACTURE TO VALUE OF PRODUCT. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Cotton. Other materials. Miseella- neons expenses. Labor. "Marj^in. Uuitcd States 43.81 42.38 34.20 .■-.9. 04 47.49 14.00 fi <>i 25.93 27. 56 26.47 18.83 21.31 10.02 9.95 11.72 8.85 8.02 13. 44 ' fi fi? 22.47 7.84 16.53 5.14 5.44 6.05 Southern states SPINDLES. NUMBER IN OPERATION. The total number of cotton spindles in the United States as shown at the census of 1890 was 14,550,323. Of these spindles 14,188,103 were in cotton mills reported in the accompanying tables, mills which were in active operation during some part at least of the census year; 166,143 were in cotton mills wliich were idle during the whole of the census year, and 190,077 were cotton spindles in mills devoted to the manufacture of woolen and worsted fabrics, or of hosiery and knit goods. The very small number of idle spindles during the census year indicates the general prosperity of the industry. In almost every case in the northern states the mills which stood idle had for some cause or other become bankrupt ii;i earlier years and were in process of reorganization. No explanation of the nouoperation of the mills in other parts of the country has been obtained. With respect to the spindles in woolen and other mills it need only be said that a certain number of woolen factories manufacture their own warps for use in mixed goods. Where pure cotton goods were a distinct product of factories using both wool and cotton, a double report was made, and such establishments were treated as two separate establishments. The spindles now under notice are in mills where no division was possible. 168 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The full details of spindles in the several states are to be found in the following table: GENERAL STATEMENT OF COTTON SPINDLES IN THE UNITED STATES, 1890 AND 1880, BY STATES. Total cotton spindles.. Activo spindles in cotton mills. 1890 Total. 1890 Idle spindles in cotton mills. Cotton spindles in woolen mills. 1890 1890 18S0 Mule. Frame. The United States , 14, 550, 323 14, 188, 103 10, 653, 436 5. 363, 486 8,824.617 166, 143 ifew England states 11,030,458 10. 836. 155 8, 632, 087 4, 391, 895 6, 444, 260 96, 161 98 149^ 914, 506 1,198,043 71.591 5, 895. 109 1, 994, 602 950, 007 1,736,319 885,762 1,195,643 71,591 5, 824^ 518 1. 924, 480 934, 155 1, 633, 722 095, 924 944. 053 65.081 4,236.084 1. 764, 569 930, 370 1, 391, 164 344. 697 364, 234 42. 736 2. 430, 719 811, 869 397, 641 822, 613 541, 066 831,409 28, 856 3. 393, 799 1,112,617 530, 514 811, 109 21, 744 New Hampshire 3 00*) Yermout ■lVrsi.RHnp.hiise+.lj^ 22, 257 36, 308 16, 862 20, 300 48, 334 34, 808 5,000> 'Ne'w York 649, 624 374. 442 496, 551 53, 916 161. 786 1. 613, 280 606, 790 374,442 439, 638 53, 916 158, 930 1, 554, 000 661. 038 232, 221 425, 391 40. 188 126. 706 542, 048 334. 210 304, 480 176. 687 2,880 5.356 108, 474 ■ 272, 586 69, 962 263, 951 51. 036 153,574 1,446,626 20, 300 22, 528 New J ersey 56, 913 Delaware Maryland 2. S3S Southern states 49, 682 9 598 "Virginia 94, 294 344,606 334, 476 469, 468 83, 002 57, 004 42. 942 107,458 80, 030 170. 266 94, 294 337, 786 332, 784 445, 452 79, 234 37, 004 42, 942 97. 524 66, 980 164, 226 16. 560 74, 604 21, 800 32. 592 18, 670 44. 340 92. 385 82, 334 198, 650 49, 432 18,568 9,022 35, 736 11,575 88, 130 13,193 30, 920 4.000 20. 624 9,460 81, 096 306, 866 328, 784 424, 928 69. 774 67, 004 34.158 75, 936 66, 980 123, 722 1,692 24, 016 3, 040 6 820 Georgia "IVTiss^i.ts'^ippi 8.784 21, 588 Tennessee 9,134 11,200 800 40, 504 6,040 Ohio 10. 580 80. 604 21, 800 32, 592 18, 690 13, 328 33, 396 8. 152 16,320 8,000 5. 632 2.400 8,408 58, 284 13. 800 26, 960 16, 270 20 6 000 All other states 41,412 21 THK UNIT OF CAPACITY— THE SPINDLE. The foregoing table is that which exhibits most broadly and most accurately the capacity of the cotton mill^ of the United States. The number of working spindles is by no means an exact measure of capacity, but it is by fac the best measure. Either the quantity of raw material, that is of cotton, or the superficial area or weight of the j)roduct, as such a measure, is open to the fatal objection that the cheapest goods are those in the making of which the largest amount of cotton is consumed. The value, either of raw cotton used or of the finished product of the spindle and the loom, is comparatively useless as a measure of capacity, since a turn in the market might cause a real increase in mill capacity to disappear, while a turn in the other direction might create an appearance of increase when there had been actually a reduction. The imperfection of the spindle as a true measure of capacity is like the imperfection of a chronometer. Since the amount of correction necessary may always be ascertained with a fair degree of accuracy the relative capacity of production at different periods may be learned within a small limit of error. The improvement in spindles during the century of cotton manufacture has been enormous. For the greater part of the time the improvement in the machinery of cotton mills may be said to have been continuous. Numerous changes for the better in the form of the spindle have been made, and the mills have hardly been equipped with spindles of an improved pattern before a still better spindle was offered them. In recent years there has been steady progress, and during no former decade has the necessary correction of the spindle as a measure of productive capacity been so great as it has during the years from 1880 to 1890. Indeed, not to discuss the question whether the modern carding machine or the modern spindle is the more important agent for economy in manufacture, yet so much more attention has been paid to spindles by manufacturers geherally that the introdu(;tion of better spindles forms the most important feature of the development of the cotton industry that is brought out by the census. There are two types of machinery by which the spinning of cotton is performed, the mule and the spinning frame. Each of these machines has been brought by experiment and invention to a point K'here it performs its work with such accuracy and excellence that it seems endowed with more than human intelligence, while its speed and capacity of production are so great that a single operative with modern machinery is more than TEXTILES— COTTON. 169 the equal of a regiment of hand spinners. The self-acting mule was brought to a high state of efficiency before the Ijrinciple of self-centering spindles, running iu loose bearings, for Irame spinning had been invented. Consequently the mule was for a long time and perhaps still is in England the favorite machine, especially for the better and finer classes of goods. The invention of the ring-spinning frame and the wire "traveler" was a great step in advance, and rendered possible the use of rapid spindles. During the last twenty years invention has been applied with marvelous results to the production of spindles capable of high speed. In 1871 the most rapid spindles were capable of making 5,500 turns a minute. The most improved spindles of to-day can be run 9,000 to 10,000 turns. Inasmuch as the amount of yarn that may be made is almost directly proportioned to the speed of the spindle, it follows that a spinning frame of the latest type can make at least 50 per cent more yarn of the same fineness than was the capacity of the best frames in existence iu 1870. While this improvement in machinery did not by any means supersede the use of the mule, it did result iu an improved quality of yarn from the frame, and the relative cheapness of this method of spinning reversed the tendency toward mule spinning that had long been a feature of the industry. No attempt was made by the census prior to 1870 to ascertain the respective numbers of frame and mule spindles in the cotton: mills of the country. The Ninth Census reported 3,694,477 frame spindles, and 3,437,938 in mules. The respective numbers were not ascertained in 1880, but in 1890 it is found that there were 8,824,617 frame spindles and 5,363,486 mule spindles. Thus, in twenty years the percentage of increase of frame spindles has been 138.86 and that of mules 56.01. THE REVOLUTION IN RING- SPINNING. In no department of industry is there a greater degree of attentiou paid by manufacturers to the improvement of machinery in the mills than in the cotton industry. The margin of profit depends upon the saving of a fraction of a cent in the price of a pound of cotton and the economy of another small fraction of a cent in working the cotton into yarn or cloth. In order to effect this second economy the most efficient machinery must be provided, and whatever becomes obsolete must be boldly removed from the mill and replaced by what is better. This being the common practice of cotton manufacturers it will readily be seen what the increase in the number of frame spindles in twenty years signifies. In ].870, as has been said, the highest type of frame spindles was capable of a speed of 5,500 revolutions a minute. But inasmuch as the inventions which gave that result were then comparatively recent, a small proportion only of the spinning frames then in use were supplied with them. Since then most of the mills have replaced their frame spindles at least once, and in a large number of cases twice. This will appear from a table appended which shows the number of frame spindles of the self-centering type sold by all the manufacturers of such spindles in the country, for each year of the decade, from May 1, 1880, to April 30, 1890. From this it appears, as a gi'and result, that 6,000,193 such spindles, all being of the highest capacity and speed ability, were placed in the cotton mills of the country between the dates of the Tenth and the Eleventh Censuses. Eoughly speaking, more than two-thirds of all the frame spindles now reported are of the highest type, since most of the important improvements in frame spindles now in use were patented as early as 1880. Moreover, the change effected is not fully represented even by this statement. While all manufacturers are not able to throw aside their machinery and replace it with that of the most modern type, they are frequently enabled to make an improvement. Machinery which, though by no means worn out, is thrown out of certain highly organized mills, because better machinery has been invented, is disposed of to dealers in second-hand machinery, and is by them sold to mills which can not aflford to replace their worn-out plant with wholly new machinery. Bearing this in mind we may say with confidence that while two-thirds of all the frame Sfyindles now in use are of the newest type and the highest capacity, and have been introduced in the last ten years, substantially all the rest are equal in spinning power to the best known up to the year 1870. The following table shows by years and by geographical, divisions, north and south, the number of frame spindles in new frames and in old frames : SUMMARY OF FRAME SPINDLES, SALES FROM MAY 1, 1880, TO APRIL 30, 1890. TEARS. Grand total. NOETHEEN STATES. SOUTHEEN STATES. Total frames. New frames. Old frames. Total frames. New frames. Old frames. Total 1880 1881 6, 000, 193 5,131,486 3, 561, 896 1,569,589 868, 708 760, 525 108, 183 861, 626 563, 275 689, 863 486, 207 231, 058 343, 257 .545, 912 493, 633 774, 630 1.111.832 828, 345 529, 571 621, 943 421, 040 190, 062 302, 439 480, 796 419, 798 555. 265 882, 227 624, 587 412, 983 405, 482 290, 007 163, 042 192, 018 365, 451 240, 372 403. 954 303, 768 116, 588 116, 461 131, 033 27, 020 110, 421 125, 344 179, 426 151, 311 33, 281 33, 704 67, 920 64, 167 40, 996 40, 818 65, 117 73, 735 219. 365 229. 605 24,586 22, 132 53. 200 55, 682 39, 429 40, 160 65, 210 66, 103 179, 690 224, 243 8,695 11, 572 14, 630 8,485 1,567 658 9.907 7,632 39, 675 5,362 1881-1882 1882-1883 1883-1884 1884 1885 1885-1886 1886-1887 1887 1888 1888 1889 1889-lSOO 574, 000 308, 227 170 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. In the northern mills there were i)laced 3,561,896 spindles in new frames, a part of which were of the plant of new mills, or of old mills enlarging oi^erations, and a part were new spindles replacing old ones removed, and 1,569,589 spindles in old frames, all of which represent substitution of new machinery for old. The sum of these numbers is 5,131,485, which is 71.52 per cent of all the active frame spindles reported in the cotton mills of the northern states.. Including Delaware and Maryland as among the southern states, the spindles in new frames in the south were 760,525; in old frames 108,183; together they were 868,708, or 52.64 per cent of the' 1,650,136 active frame spindles in the cotton mil.s of that pait of the country. The great improvement in the machinery of cotton mills both north and south which is exhibited in these facts is reflected in mOre than one of the conn)arisons which are possible between the production of goods in 1880 and in 1890, but in none more clearly than in the statement of the average consumption of cotton per spindle. IMPKOVEMENTS IN MULE SPINNING. While the great imj)rovements here noted in frame spinning have been taking place, that marvellous piece of machinery, the mule, has been brought nearer to perfection, and its efficacy has been incsreased nearly, if not quite, as much as that of the frame spindle. Before 1870 the use of the mule was principally for spinning filling; but for print cloths and other medium goods it was used for making warps also. The great impetus which cotton manufacturing received in the early years of the decade which began with 1871, and the improvement in ring spinning compelled the makers of mules to see what invention could do to make their machinery more efficient. At that time the limit of speed of a mule spinning No. 36 yarn, which is the ordinary yarn for filling for print cloths and other medium goods, was 3^ to 3J " stretches " of 60 inches per minute. Inferior and old pattern mules made only 3 stretches, or even less, per minute. As in the case of frame spinning, the speed of the spindle fixed the limit 6f production; that is to say, while it was easily possible to run the machinery at a higher speed, for that was a mere matter of the application of power, the spindle itself could not be made to produce good yarn of the fineness mentioned if run at a higher speed. The efforts of manufacturers were successftiUy made in several directions. First, the spindle itself was improved, the change taking chiefly the form of improved workmanship. The new spindle was like the old, but it was better made and stronger, the self-centering principle which has made so great a change in frame spindles being adapted to the mule spindle. Inasmuch as the change required only the addition of a self-adjusting bolster and an improved step to spindles already in use, the improvement was much more readily available than one which rendered necessary the discarding of the old spindles. This improvement dates fi-om 1885. The effort at producing a better mule spindle was a result not simply of competitidh with frame spindles, but of the tendency to the production of finer yams. The usual twist in No. 36 filling yarn is 19 or 20 turns to the inch, but as yarns become finer the number of turns increases rapidly. In order, therefore, to produce the same length of finer yarn, spindles must be run more rapidly, though the speed of the carriage does not increase; or the carriage must come to a stop while " standing twist " is given to the yarn, before the motion known as backing off' and winding begins. The improvement which was adopted chiefly with reference to fine spinning was of great advantage in the spinning of medium counts; for when the available speed of the spindle had become greater than was necessary to give the requisite twist for 3 or 3^ stretches of 60 inches each in a minute, it was possible both to lengthen the stretch and increase the number. Thus, at present the improved mule when spinning No. 36 yarn is cai)able of making in one minute 4f to 5 stretches of 64 inches each. Indeed, in some cases the stretch is increased to 67 inches by the adoption of a new roller delivery, by which roving continues to be supplied to the amount of 3 inches, one turn of the roller, while the spun yarn is being wound during the return of the carriage. These several improvements have added about 50 per cent to the product of yarn per spindle. The spindle itself had formerly a speed of about 7,000 turns a minute. The new self-centering spindle has a speed of more than 10,000 turns. Since 1884 machinery makers have devoted themselves to strengthening the parts of the mule to enable it to bear the increased speed, and to simplifying it to adapt it to the class of help which the great demand for spinners has required manufacturers to employ; and several other improvements, very important in combination, have been introduced, which are of too technical a character to be described here. Some experimenting has, taken place in the direction of a considerable increase in the length of mules. Machines have been made as long as 117 feet and containing 1,100 spindles. The object of this change is partly economical and partly to xn-oduce better yarn. One spinner and a helper are employed for a pair of the long mules and breaks are more quickly rei)ai]ed. CONSUMPTION OF COTTON PEE SPINDLE. The improvement noted above in both mule and frame spindles does not fully appear in the following table, which shows the consumption of raw cotton per spindle for each of the geographical divisions and for the United States. The increased fineness of goods, which is referred to elsewhere, interferes to complicate the matter. Nevertheless, it should be noted that, taking the country at large, in spite of the greater fineness of yarn spun the average consumption has increased from 70.43 pounds to 78.79 pounds since 1880. In New England, waer« the average number of yarn, estimated by the only process which is available for purposes of comxiarison, has increased from 30 to 31.31, the average consumption of cotton has, nevertheless, increased from 62.72 pounds to 65.95 pounds, TEXTILES— COTTON. 171 :and'in Ae soatli, where the average number is also higher than it was ten years ago, the annual consumption is larger iby 5.47 poEnds than in 1880. An average of this sort, however, is not very instructive, since, as is explained further on, the consumption of cotton is so very greatly dependent upon the relative coarseness or fineness of the yarn spun. This is evident in the fact that the southern mills consume two and a half times as much cotton to a spindle as those of ¥ew England, although the efaciency of southern spindles is, upon the whole, not equal to that of New England spindles. A similar remark may be made as to the teaching of the table on page 167, showing the elements of cost in the product of cotton mills, where it appears that the percentage of cost of cotton is much higher in the southern mills than in the rest of the country. The simple explanation is, of course, that the weight »of cotton in the average yard of southern woven goods is much greater than in the New England or middle states. COTTON CONSUMED PER SPINDLE. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. United States. Kew EDgland states Middle states Southern states Western states 1890 ■ 1880 (Pounds.) (Pounds.) 78.79 70.43 05.05 78.46 161. 41 147. 55 62.72 78. .58 155. 94 171. 66 OTHER IMPKOVBMEWTS IN MACHINERY. Other great improvements have taken place in cotton machinery during the last twenty years, and many of them vrithin the last decade. The modern cotton opener is a marvelously more eftective machine than that which it suj)erseded, but a still greater improvement is that in cotton cards. It is held by some manufacturers that the new ■carding machine has introduced an economy in the production of yarn not less important than that in spindles. LOOMS. The number of looms in operation in 1890 was 324,866 against 225,759 in 1880; an increase of 99,107 in number, and of 43.90 per cent. The following table shows the number of looms in 1880 and 1890, together with the numerical and percentage increase during the decade for each of the geographical divisions. NUMBER OF LOOMS: 1890 AND 1880. GEOGIIAPHICAL DIVISIONS. United States - !N"ew England states Middle states Southern states "Western states NUMBER OF LOOMS. 1880 INCREASE. 1890 iN'umber. Per cent. 324, 866 225, 759 99, 107 43.90 250, 116 35,074 86, 266 3,410 184, 701 27, 318 11,898 1,842 66,415 , 35.42 7,756 28.39 24, 368 ' 204. 81 1,568 1 85.12 ■ An exhibit is made in the general table relating to machinery of the number of looms at work upon various classes of goods. Inasmuch as the facts of this character were not collected at the Tenth Census no comparison is possible. THE GEOGEAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE INDUSTEY. The geographical distribution of the cotton manufacturing industry is an interesting study, and it is made especially so at the present time by the fact that during the last ten years a change has been taking place, which, if it should continue, will become highly important. New England has been from the beginning the chief seat of the industry. Fifty years ago, when the census first attempted an exact statement of the number of spindles in each of the states, New England had 70 per cent of all the spinning machinery in the country. In 1840 the several New England states ranked in relative importance in cotton spinning exactly as they do to-day. Massachusetts stood first, followed in order by Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Connecticut, Maine and Vermont. The number of spindles was not taken at the census of 1850, but in 1860 we find New England reporting nearly 74 per cent of all the spindles in the United States; in 1870 this group of states had 77 per cent; in 1880 it had 81 per cent; and according to the present census 76 per cent. During this whole period of fifty years, which has seen an increase from 2,284,631 to more than 14,000,000 spindles, New England has retained an almost unvarying proportion of the spindles, and during the whole time the several states of the group have stood in the same relative rank. Moreover the industry has shown an extraordinary steadiness of concentration in certain regions. More than one-fourth of the cotton spindles 'in the country (29.61 per cent) are in the two adjoining 172 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. counties of Bristol in Massachusetts and Providence in Khode Island. Lowell and Lawrence in Massachusetts^ Manchester and JSTashua in New Hampshire, Biddeford and Lewiston in Maine, are also large centers of production ,• and it is .still true that either of these centers is more important than any single city outside of ISew England, except Cohoes, JSTew York. The greatest concentration has taken place in the city of Fall Eiver, Massachusetts,, which now reports 41 establishments, having a capital of more than $32,000,000. The mills of this city are very largely devoted to the production of print cloths, of which they turned out during the census year, 443,043,437' square yards, equivalent to very nearly 600,000,000 running yards, or 12,000,000 pieces. In 1890 Massachusetts contained 41.05 per cent of the entire number of active spindles in the country as- compared with 39.76 per cent in 1880, being the only New England state maintaining its percentage in this respect,, the percentage of Maine having declined from 6.53 to 6.24; of New Hampshire, from 8.86 to 8.43; of Vermont, from 0.52 to 0.50; of Rhode Island, from 16.56 to 13.56; of Connecticut (the only state in the east which exhibits- a decrease in the number of spindles), from 8.79 to 6.58. In the aggregate, although New England added more than 2,000,000 to the number of its spindles, its percentage of the spinning cai)acity of the country declined from 81.03 to 76.37. The group percentages vary slightly from the sum of state percentages included by reason of the- accumulated value of decimals rejected in the details. GROVTTH IN THE SOUTH. In considering the geographical distribution of the cotton manufacturing industry the most important, act is the extraordinary rate of its growth in the south during the past decade. For a great many years, probably ever since the cultivation of the cotton plant in the South Atlantic states had a beginning, domestic spinning and weaving of coarse cotton fabrics has been a common fact in the household economy of that part of the country. Here and there small factories were established for the production of heavy fabrics. It is only within the- period since the close of the civil war that mills have been erected in the south for the purpose of entering the general market of the country with their merchandise, and almost all the progress made in this direction has been effected since 1880. According to the Tenth Census there were in the states south of the District of Columbia only 542,048 spindles. If the whole cotton manufacturing in all these states had been concentrated in one state it would have raised that state to the seventh rank only in point of capacity of production A remarkable development of manufacturing enterprise in the south, based on the nearness of snj)plies of raw material, which began ten years ago, had no more reasonable field in which to exercise itself than that of cotton spinning. New mills sprang up all over the region, but particularly in the states of North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia. The number of establishments in these three states, as reported in 1890, is greater by 75 than in 1880, an increase of nearly 73 per cent; but even this does not adequately express the progress that has been made; for a certain number of antiquated mills which have ceased operation forever cause the apparent growth to be less than the real increase. It may be noted, as illustrating the development of the industry in these states, that the average number of spindles, to a mill has also increased nearly 73 per cent. The aggregate number of spindles in 1890 was almost three-fold: that reported at the previous census. While the largest absolute increase has taken place in these three states there- has been quite as large a proportional increase in other states of the south. The table showing the classified products of mills indicates what progTcss has been made in occupying markets which were previously in the exclusive possession of northern mills. The sheetings and print cloths of the south are consumed in northern homes and southern yarns are woven on Pennsylvania looms and made into hosiery on New York and Pennsylvania knitting frames. While the demand for coarse fabrics for the clothing of colored laborers is still large and is for the most part met by the local production, the mills are also turning out goods of a finer quality, as is indicated by the table which exhibits the average number of yarn spun. The new mills are for the most part equipped with, the latest and most approved machinery. The advantages which the south possesses in nearness to the supply of raw material and in the abundance of comparatively cheap labor are partially offset by certain disadvantages; some of which time and experience will cause to disappear. It can not be doubted that the development of this industry in the cotton-raising states is based upon sound commercial reasons, and that it is destined to continue. The increase of manufacturing in the middle states has been at a slower rate than in any other part of the country. Substantially three-fifths of the increase has been in the state of New Jersey, and is largely due to the development of the spool-thread industry in the great mills in and near Newark. The industry in Pennsylvania is rather of a weaving than of a spinning character. The contrast between these two states is quite marked when we observe that there are in New Jersey nearly 102 spindles to every loom, and only 31 spindles to a loom in Pennsylvania. In Massachusetts, which is both a spinning and a weaving state, the number is nearly 44 spindles to one loom. The manufacture of cotton goods in the west, while it exhibits a good rate of growth during the decade, is still too small to call for extended notice. The future development of this industry, considered geographically, depends upon a great variety of conditions, among which may be mentioned the relative (cheapness of transportation of the raw material to the several competing regions; nearness to the market where finished goods are sold; economy o/ power, whether water power or steam; the supjdy of labor capable of adajiting itself to this branch of industry; and the spirit of the state laws regarding the employment of labor. To these considerations some students of the question would TEXTILES— COTTON. 173 add that the atmospheric conditions must also be taken into account. It is true that while a humid state of of the atmosphere is favorable to good spinning of cotton, particularly of fine yarns, there are certain regions where the degree of natural humidity is both greater and more uniform than it is elsewhere. Nevertheless, the advantage which the climate of the British Isles possesses in this respect has been overcome by mechanical appliances adopted in the American mills, and there seems to be no reason why, if it should be worth while on other accounts to locate mills where the atmosphere is relatively dry, the same means should not be found effectual to neutralize one of the disadvantages imposed by nature. EMPLOYES AND WAGES. . The average number of employes in the cotton industry during the census year, including ofi&cers and clerks, was 221,585, an increase of d6;926, or 20.87 per cent. Nearly the whole of this increase occurred in New England and the southern states, and was almost exactly divided betweeu them. The figures which show the number and wages of officers and clerks have significance only as they complete the statistics which indicate the importance of the industry. The facts presented regarding the number and wages of operatives furnish material for some useful deductions. It should be remarked here that in the spinning and weaving of cotton a very large proportion of the operatives are nominally employed on piecework. The payment of weavers by the " cut" is well-nigh universal, and a very large number of sxjinners are paid not by the day or the hour but by the number of spindles under their care. It was considered that if all who are emjjloyed according to this system were to be classed as pieceworkers the result would give an incomplete and erroneous view of the average eafnings of operatives in cotton mills. Moreover, while these operatives are nominally employed as pieceworkers, their wages are in reality so regulated as to enable them to earn a nearly uniform amount from week to week. Consequently an arbitrary rule was adopted that all pieceworkers whose earnings are limited by the speed of machineiy were to be included with those paid a specific amount by the week, the day, or the houi. It is probable that many manufactiu'ers in making their returns failed to transfer to the category of wage earners according to the time einployed all who should proj)erly have been included in this class. The number of pieceworkers is therefore too large and that of operatives and skilled laborers earning wages is too small, but whatever error there may be corrects itself, and the final result is not affected. Before taking up the details of the figures relating to the class of " oiaeratives and skilled labor '', a few comparisons may be drawn between the number of persons employed, exclusive of officers and clerks, in 1880 and 1890. The number of adult male employes increased 29,152 and of adult females 22,068, while the number of children decreased 4,888. The change in the relative proport^n of these three classes in New England mills is marked ; for while the number of men increased 18,228 that of women increased biit 10,891, and the number of children decreased 7,539. In the southern states, on the other hand, while the number of men increased somewhat more than that of women, the number of children employed was doubled. The proportion of men, women, and children employed (including officers and clerks) in 1890 and 1880 is exhibited in the following table : PROPORTION 01' MEN, WOMEN, AND CHILDREN EMPLOYED (ALL CLASSES) : 1890 AND 1880. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. "United States. . - >Cew Eiiglaiitl stales MidcUo states Soutliern states Western states (Percentage of all employes.) 1890 18S0 41.28 43.75 37.32 35.66 32.28 35.36 36.87 32.29 30.20 27. CO WOMEN. (Percentage of all employes.) 1890 1880 48.15 49.42 50.25 40.62 54.87 48.41 49.20 46.49 15.32 51.35 CHILDKEN. (Percentage of all employes.) 1890 10.57 16.23 6.83 12.43 23.72 12. 85 13.03 21.22 24.48 21. 35 The most natural and obvious comparison between the rates of wages in 1880 and 1890 is the result of the c>-eneral average. According to the census of 1880 there were employed in the cotton mills of the United States 172 54J- hands (exclusive of officers and clerks), and the total wages paid to them amounted to $42,040,510. This was an avera"e yearly earning of $243.65. In 1890 the same industry gave employment to 218,876 hands (officers and clerks excluded), and paid them $66,024,538 for their service, an annual average for each person of $301.65. This comparison, taken by itself and without explanation, would naturally be supposed to signify that the average rate of wa,"-es throughout the country in this industry has increased in the proportion indicated, that is, by an actual average addition of $58 to the wages of each person employed, more than $1 a week, or by 23.80 per cent. This deduction is not warranted by the facts. It is undeniable that wages have increased. This is proved beyond question by the wage tables of the mills. A glance at the table showing the proportion of men, women. 174 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. and children furnislies an abundant explanation of the reason why the apparent increase' fe greoikm than the real'.. It will be seen that the proportion of women employed in Kew England factories remained almost stationary, the difference between the two periods being only 0.22. The proportion of men increased 6.88 and that of children, decreased 7.10. It thus appears that there is a decrease in the class of laborers earning the lowest rate of wagea and an increase in the class earning the highest rate. Turning attention now exclusively to the operatives and skilled laborers, exclmding piiecewonfcers, we find, that the sum of $30,761,249 was paid in \\ages during the census year to an average number of 80,735 adult males, being an average yearly earning of $381.02; $26,019,812 to 95,733 adult females,, an aveuag.e of $271.80, and $2,913,283 to 22,433 children, an average of $129.87 lor the year. On the basis of 50 weeks running iu each year this is an average weekly wage of $7.62 for men, $5.44 for women, and $2.60 for children. Although, counting each establishment as a unit, the average number of weeks during which all the cotton miUs of the country were running appears to have been but slightly more than 49, yet, as a matter of history, th« important mills all through the country were running almost continuously, and the basis of 50 weeks is under rather than over the truth. Bringing together the figures for each of the geographical divisions, we have the following exhibit: GROSS WAGES AND AVERAGE EARNINGS PER YEAR AND PER WEEK OP SKILLED. EMPLOYES, EXCLUDING PIECEWORKERS, 1890. MEN. WOMEN. CHILDEEN. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Average number. Total wages. ; Average earnings. Average number. Total wages. Average earnings. Avanage- number. Total wages. Average earnings. Yearly. Weekly. Yearly. Weekly. Yearly. Weekly. United States 80, 735 ,$30, 761, 249 $381. 02 $7.62 95, 733 $26, 019, 812 $271. 80 $5_44 22,433 $2,913,283 $129.87 $2.60- 'N&vf England states 58, 299 10,555 22, 785, 881 4, 582, 850 3, 002, 215 390, 303 390. 85 434. 19 274. 68 410. 41 7.82 8.68 5.49 8.21 65, 900 14, 567 13, 560 1,706 18, 906, 902 4, 193, 627 2, 516, 447 402, 836 286. 90 287. 89 185. 58 236. 13 5.76 3.71- 4.72 9,769, 3,971 8„?62 431, 1. 549, 697 i 536,363 : 773,729 1 53,494 158. 63 135.07 93.65 124. 12 3.17- 2 70 Southern states 10, 930 931 1.87 2 48 From these figures it appears that the highest average wages of both men and womeiL are paid in the middle states, and the highest to children in New England, while the lowest wages to each of the- three classes are paid in the southern states. An inspection of *the table exhibiting the above facts by states shows that for all classes of working people the rates are more uniform throughout the New England states than in any other part of the- country, a circumstance which will cause no surprise to those who know how highly organized factory labor is in the eastern states. The bearing of the facts relative to actual rates of wages must necessarily be considered in connection with earnings in other branches of industry. In one respect the tables showing the number of employes, the amount of wages, and the number of spindles, when brought together, furnish the material for some useful deductions by manufacturers. It appears from the following table, first, that the number of spindles to each hand emj^loyed, taking the country at large, luis increased in ten years from 61.74 to 64.82 ; secondly, that the cost of labor per spindle increased in the same time from $3.95 a year to $4.65. Furthermore, it appears that the number of spindles to each employ^ is largest iu New England, as it was ten years ago, and that the cost of labor per spindle is also lowest iii the same geographical division. This, of course, does not signify that wages are lowest in New England, for that is not true. No doubt both the fact now under notice and that just mentioned, which may be put in another form, namely, that fewer hands are required to each 1,000 spindles than elsewhere in the country, are due in some degree to the fact w^liich has already been referred to under the head of " Cost of Plant", namely, that mills spinning and weaving coarse goods require more machinery other than spindles, and consequently more hands than fine mills. Indeed, something like a direct proportion may be established between the average number of yarn spun, for example, in Maine, Massachusetts, and South Carolina, and the number of spindles to each hand, as exhibited in the following table. The labor cost per spindle is complicated by differences in rates of wages and in hours of operation per day. The figures in the following table invite analysis by those who are curious to estabhsh. the relationships, and estimate the value of the several elements entering into questions of wages. In some special cases there are local variations which are to be explainea on other grounds than any yet mentioned. The immense difference between the showing of New Jersey and that of Pennsylvania is to be ascribed chiefly to the fact that in New Jersey the dominating mills are those for the manufacture of spool cotton thread, while in Pennsylvania the- number of spindles is comparatively small and that of looms abnormally large.. TEXTILES— COTTON. 175, NUMBER OF SPINDLES TO EACH EMPLOYE, AND THE AMOUNT PAID FOR LABOR TO EACH SPINDLE : 1890 AND 1880.. The United States 1890 1880 Xew England states 1890 1880 Maine IggO 1880 New Hampsliire Iggy 1880 Vermont 1890 1880 Massucliusetta , 1890 1880 Rhode lalaml 1890 1880 Connecticut 1890 18S0 Middle states 1890 1880 Now York • 1890 • 18K0 New Jersey 1890 1880 Pennsylvania 1890 1880 Delaware 1890 " , 1880 Maryland '. 1890 1880 Southern states 1890 1880 Virginia - 1830 1880 North Carolina 1890 1880 South Carolina ISCO 1880 Georgia 1891) 188C Alabama 1890 1880 Mississippi 1890 1880 Kentucky 1890 1880 Tennessee 1890 1880 All other states '8S0 1880 Western stufos -.1890 1880 Ohio ; 1S90 1880 Indiana 1890 1880 „,. . 1890 Hlmois 1880 -,. 1890 Missouri 1880 „. 1890 \V ISL'OIIStll ISSO •„ ,, I . ,„ 1890 All other sUitfs 1880 Average number €tf 6mployes. (a) 218, 876 172, 544 147, 369 125, 779 13, 912 11, 759 19, 383 16, 395 724 721 75, 514 61, 246 24, 576 21, 174 13, 220 14, 484 31, 841 28,118 8,316 9,227 5,832 4,170 12, 660 9,879 971 791 4,256 4,042 36, 416 16, 317 1,990 1,085 8,515 3, 2:!2 8,071 2,018 10, 314 6,216 2,088 1,448 1,164 695 818 348 2,124 1,015 1,341 261 3,261 2,330 Total wages, (a) 554 481 1,309 708 $66, 024, 638 42, 040, 510 478 633 47, 832, 943 32, 170, 861 4, 213, 523 2, 936, 640 6, 242, 204 4, 290, 960 204, 588 161, 748 26, 118, 365 15, 828, 571 7, 814, 767 5, 320, 303 4, 239, 546 3, 632, 639 10. 184, 589 6, 613, 260 2, 448, 031 1, 994, 755 1, 984, 069 1, 156, 961 4,388,017 2, 502, 688 308, 346 192, 727 1, 055, 536 766, 129 7, 116, 805 2, 750, 986 373, 993 169, 789 1, 475, 932 439, 659 1, 510, 494 380, 844 2, 167, 036 1, 135, 184 402, 908 239, 998 263, 997 133, 214 170, 573 63, 860 444, 673 161,071 307, 359 27, 377 800, 141 505, 403 161, 613 104, 500 310, 342 102, 829 123, 086 97,680. 131, 170 103, 030 140, 394 Spindles. 14, 188, 103 10, 663, 435 10, 836, 166 8, 632, 087 886, 702 695, 924 1, 196, 643 944, 063 71, 591 65, 081 5, 824, 518 4, 236, 084 1, 924, 486 1, 764, 569 934, 155 936, 376 1, 633, 722 1,391,164 606, 796 561, 658 374, 442 232, 221 439, 638 426, 391 53,916 46, 18.8 158,, 930, 1 25,, 706 1, 554, 000- 642, 048 94, 294 44i340 337,, 786 92, 385 332, 784 82, 334 445, 452 198, 056 79, 234 49,432 57, 004 18, 508 42, 942 9,022 97; 534 35,736 66, 080 11, 57.3 164,226 88, 136 16, 560 13, 328 74, 604 33, 396 21, 800 Number of spindles to each employ6. 19, 312 32,692 18, S70 22, 100 64.82 61.74 73.54 68.63 63.67 69.18 61.69 57.58 98.88 76.401 77.19 69.17 78,31 83.34 70^61 04.6") 49. 48 72.97 60.87 66.48 55. ,57 34.71 43.06 55.53 58.39 37.34 31.10 42.67 33.22 47.38 40.87 39.67 28.58 41.23 40.80 43.19 31.90 37.96 34.14 49.40 26.72 52.50 25.93 46.92 35.21 49.95 44.35 50.36 37.83 29.89 27.71 56.99 47.17 50.70 38.02 66.61 39.06 34. 91 Labor cost per spindle. $4.65. 3.95. 4.41 3.73, 4.7G. 4. 22 5.22 4.55. 2.86 2.94 4.31 3.74 4.06. 3.02 4.54 3.88. 6.23 4.75 . 4.03 3.55 5.30 , 4.98 9. 98 5.88 5.72 . 4.17 0.64 6.09 , 4.58 5.08 4.37 4.76 4.54 4.63 4.86 5.71 6.09 4.86 4.03 7.17 3.97 7.08 4.56 4.51 4.59 2.37 0.42 5.73 9.76 7.84 4.16 4.88 6.69 5.06 4.02 a Excludes officers or firm members, clerks or sale.smen, and tlieir sitl:irie,s. 176 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. MATERIALS USED. COTTON. The total quantity of cottou consumed in tlie establishments reported was 2,261,600 bales, of an aggregate ■weight of 1,117,945,776 pounds. This includes foreign and sea island with the ordinary varieties of classified 'Cotton. Inasmuch as the publication of a classified statement by states of the cotton consumed would result in "the disclosure of certain facts regarding individual establishments, the totals only of the quantities and values of •the several varieties of cotton can be here presented : KINDS OF COTTON. Total 2,261,000 Sea island I 21,283 Other clomestio I 2, 231, 385 Egyptian .- | 8,932 1 Poands. Cost. 1,117,945,776 $117, 392, 576 j 7,891.915 1,103,492,010 6, 560, 951 1, 980, 983 114, 337, 802 1,073,791 The amount paid for cotton is by far the largest item in the expenditures of a cotton mill. The cost of that which is classed as " Other domestic" is 42.67 per cent of the gross value of products. The average weight of bales of domestic cotton consumed in cotton mills during the census year was 494 pounds, as compared with 478 pounds in 1880. The commercial report of the weight of bales of the whole American crop in 1890 is 496.13 pounds. The increase in the consumption of cotton in the cotton mills of the United States during the ten years, including sea island and foreign cotton, is shown by the following figures: YEARS. Bales. Pounds. 1889 1890 2, '261, 600 i 1, 570, 344 1,117 945,776 1879 1880 750, 343, 981 Increase in amount Increase per cent 691. 256 1 44. 02 1 367, 601, 795 48.99 The total consumption of cotton in the country, including the consumption in woolen mills, for each of the eleven years ending with 1890 is exhibited in the following statement, taken from the accepted commercial reports, except that for the year 1890 the census figures are substituted. Owing to the variation in the weight of bales the amount is stated in xiounds. YEAK. Pounds. YEAR. Pounds. 792, 400, 000 847, 200, 000 878, 800, 000 930, 000, 000 897, 600, 000 763, 600, 000 1886 911, 200. 000 969, 200, 000 1,012,000,000 1. 074, 000, 000 1, 193, 374, 641 1881 1887 1882 1888 1889 1890 1885 The table following presents the facts relative to the consumption of "other domestic" cotton in each of the states and by geographical divisions as ascertained at the Eleventh Census. A comparison is made with the corresponding figures obtained at the Tenth Census. It should be noted that the statistics of 1880 make no distinction between the several kinds of cotton, and consequently the comparison is not strictly between corresponding facts; but the error is a very small one, both because the use of foreign and sea island cotton is so small, comparatively, and because that use is, except in New Jersey, in states where the consumption of ordinary cotton is so great that the percentage can be affected but slightly. TEXTILES— COTTON. QUANTITY AND COST OF COTTON CONSUMED, BY STATES: 1890 AND 1880. 177 STATES AND TERRITOKlEb. 1890 Sea island and foreign. TheTTiiitcil stMtfs. i^'ew England states. Maine Kew Hampshire. Vermont Massachusetts — Ehode Island Connecticut Middle states. New Torls !N"ew Jersey — Pennsylvania. Delaware Maryland Southern states. Virginia North Carolina . South Carolina . Georgia Florida Alabama Louisiana Mississippi Texas Kentucky Arkansas Tennessee All other states. ■Western states Ohio Missouri ^.. . Indiana Michigan ■. Illinois Minnesota "Wisconsin Utah All other states . Bales. 6,747 6,733 6,841 653 9,24] Pounds. | Cost. 14,402,866 .$3,064,774 9, 899, 494 3, 228, 105 3, 426, 367 3, 245, 022 4, 553, 372 483, 368 4, 070, 004 2, 065, 270 663, 420 700, 925 700, 925 Other domestic. Bales. 2, 231, 385 1,405,637 132, 504 214, 034 8,954 765, 773 186, 558 97, 814 251, 260 78, 171 16, 482 92, 705 8,876 55, 026 526, 856 22, 731 114, 371 133, 342 145, 859 29, 962 17, 366 11, 980 33, 114 18, 131 47, 632 11,023 16, 306 6,405 6,924 6,974 Pounds. 1,103,492,910 704, 792, 220 65, 717, 252 107, 319, 124 4, 647, 889 383, .539, 221 94, 555, 788 49, 012, 946 123, 630, 916 39, 038, 689 8,231,147 44, 629, 588 4, 465, 825 27, 265, 667 250. 837, 646 Cost. $114,3.37,802 Cost per pound. $0. 1036 74, 683, 860 7, 053, 168 11, 203, 742 498, 348 40, 206, 887 10, 446, 155 5, 275, 560 12,917,244 10, 616, 206 63, 546, 289 04, 000, 600 69, 139, 410 14, 726, 454 4, 192, 105 905, 524 4, 371, 693 475, 490 2, 972, 432 24, 508, 776 1,080,773 6, 396, 974 6, 242, 598 6, 663, 660 1, 372, 058 8, 449, 834 793, 600 I 5,751,305 15, 779, 36C 1, 554, 851 8, 828, 188 850, 156 24, 232, 128 5, 840, 078 8, 240, 434 3, 267, 188 3, 470, 388 3, 414, 040 383, 656 798, 178 0. 1060 0. 1073 0.1044 0. 1072 0. 1048 0. 1105 0. 1076 0. 1045 0. 1074 0. 1100 0. 0980 0. 1065 0. 1090 0. 0977 0. 1018 0. 1008 0. 0975 0. 0064 0. 0932 0. 0939 0. 0964 0. 0985 0. 0963 0. 0919 1880 All cotton. 1, 570, 344 112, 381 157,673 7,404 574, 857 167, 480 109, 703 22H, 729 64,614 21, 069 83, 997 7,612 61,537 182, 349 11,461 27, 642 33, 624 71, 380 350 14, 702 1.358 6,411 246 4,050 680 10, 436 Pounds. 750, 343, 981 641,373,880 54,185,061 76, 386, 499 3, 662, 088 273, 718, 889 81,137,172 52, 384, 171 109, 321, 428 31,656,594 9, 950, 609 40,311,809 3,236,184 24, 166, 232 84, 528, 757 6, 087, 519 11, 832, 641 15,601,005 33, 757, 199 166, 250 7, 271. 791 644, 000 2,881,853 119, 986 1,882,234 340, 000 4, 944, 279 Cost. Cost per pound. 0. 1159 63, 169, 434 0. 1167 6, 234, 901 0.1151 8, 629, 063 0, 1130 458, 607 0. 1287 31, 107, 154 0. 1136 10,457,770 0. 1289 6, 281, 939 0.1199 13, 268, 526 0. 1213 3,981,106 1,319,422 4, 749, 428 427, 855 2, 780, 715 8, 890, 408 601, 796 1, 125, 984 1, 723, 187 3, 591. 554 16, 000 729, 202 68, 018 301, 226 11, 280 188, 856 25, 000 608, 305 0.1258 0. 1326 0. 1178 0. 1322 0. 1151 0. 1052 29,768 15,119,916 0. 0969 312,621 1 0.0957 359, 117 374, 460 a0.0667 \[ 5,323 2,506,182 6,399 : 3,082,133 11,558 I 6,364,887 60C I 300,000 2,261 j 1,099,130 400 [ 200, 000 3,173 ; 1,541,797 0. 1035 0. 1097 25,788 258, 198 336, 984 679, 911 86, 000 110, 969 22, 000 180, 072 3,223 0. 1183 0. 0952 0.1105 0. 1084 0. 0962 0. 1003 0. 1056 0. 1046 0. 0940 0. 1003 0. 0736 0. 1028 0. 1076 0. 1030 0. 1093 0. 1068 0. 120C 0. lOlC 0. 1100 0. 1168 0. 1250 a The low cnsl per pound of cotton reported from the state of Ohio is caused by the inclusion of an establishment using a large quantity of "linter ", or low grade cotton. SEA ISLAND COTTON. The consumptiou of sea island cotton during tlie census year is reported at 21,283 bales. This is mucli the largest amount ever consumed in a single year, and it exceeds the commercial reports by more than 2,000 bales, or nearly 10 per cent. There is, nevertheless, reason to believe that if there is an error in the present statement the correction required is an increase rather than a diminution of the amount. While :i detailed statement of the consumption of this staple can not be made, for reasons already given, it may be said that mills in only four states return sea island cotton as entering into their raw materials— Connecticut, Massachusetts, Kew Jersey, and Rhode Island : and in these states the use of it is confined almost wholly to the makers of spool thread. 2457 12 178 MA^NUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. EGYPTIAN COTTON. The amount of Egyptian cotton used in American mills is now reported by the census for the first time. For the census year 1890 it was 6,560,951 pounds. The return by the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department of the imports of foreign cotton entering into consumption during the fiscal year 1889-1890 amounted to 8,407,160 pounds. It is not improbable that some users of foreign cotton failed to return the amount separately, but included the whole in their return of domestic. The use of Egyptian cotton in spinning fine yarns is increasing. The following table shows the amount of cotton imported from abroad and entering into consumption, together with the value of the same, as reported by the bureau of statistics for each of the ten years ended with 1890 : IMPORTS OF COTTON. YEAES. Pounds. Value. 1881 4, 440, 996 4, 339, 776 4, 123, 058 7, 093, 915 5, 116, 705 5, 072, 359 4, 024, 531 5, 497, 544 7, 983, 699 8. 407, 160 $757, 352 789, 944 802, 248 1, 382, 514 954, 760 672, 508 533, 928 744, 795 1, 195, 368 1, 393, 071 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 FIBERS OTHEE THAN COTTON. The consumption of raw fibers other than cotton, as reported in the tables of materials, may be treated as unimportant. The use of such material is reported in an exceedingly small number of establishments, and both the quantity and value are toe insignificant to be noticed at length. A.similar remark may be made as to the yarns of fiber other than cotton, although the use of such materials was rather more important than the consumption of the raw fibers. YARN PURCHASED. The items representing amount and cost of cotton yarn not made in the mill where it is finally worked into fabrics, are worthy of more attention. As is well known, the spinning and the weaving industries are almost completely separated in Great Britain, where cotton manufacturing has reached its highest and largest development. In the United States the two industries are usually carried on by the same corporation and under one roof. The census returns do not give countenance to the theoiy, held by some persons, that a divorce of the two processes is impending. It is true there has been a considerable increase in the number of mills devoted exclusively to spinning, but no such increase appears in the number of weaving mills in which no spinning is done. A critical inspection of the returns shows what am not be exhibited in tabular statements, namely, that the users of yarn not spun by themselves are of three classes : (1) eistablishmeuts which both spin and weave, but which spin too little for their loom capacity; (2) establishments which purchase fine yarns to be converted into sewing thread; and (3) establishments which weave only. These last are located mostly in the state of Pennsylvania, where a very considerable proportion of all the weaving of intricate and fancy fabrics is done. It will be seen by an examination of the table that Pennsylvania, with 3.10 per cent of the spindles in the country and -1.30 per cent of the looms, consumed 45.25 per cent of all the "yarn not made in mill" reported as material consumed. OTHER MATERIALS. The other items entering into the list of materials consumed call for but a single remark. With one exception they are expenditures upon the machinery Avhich drives the mills. The exception is starch, a small amount of which is required to prepare warps for the loom. The weight of starch used in all the cotton mills in the country was but 27,448,792 pounds, while the weight of piece goods produced was 758,903,844 pounds. In other words, the total addition of weight to woven goods by the addition of starch was but 3.62 per cent, and this addition was merely that which is necessary to render the warp threads smooth and to give them the additional strength called for by the strain and wear of weaving. DUPLICATIONS. Attention should be directed to one fact relating to the table showing materials used, namely, that there is a certain duplication in some items, to be eliminated if any attempt is made to obtain the net amount anci value of materials. It will be evident at a glance that substantially the whole of the " cotton yarn not made in mill " is a dupli<'ation as being the product of some of these very mills out of the cotton here reported. The total amount of yarn " not made in mill" is 49,457,669 pounds, valued at $11,363,218. Of this amount a total of 677,954 pounds, valued at •'t*509,682, represents yarns of wool, flax, silk, jute, hemp, and other fibers, spun in other mills, and consumed in the manufacture of goods which are composed so largely of cotton that the makers of them do not class TEXTILES— COTTON. 1 79 them even as mixed goods. Although purchased cotton yarns used in weaving mills can not be traced to the spindles from which they came, it is reasonable to assume that most of the quantity coming under this head was the product of American mills and appears under the head of "Yarn" in the table of products. The importation of cotton yarns from abroad during the year ended June 30, 1890, was 1,674,262 pounds, valued at $879,326. What part of this quantity was yarn for doubling and twisting in sewing thread mills which do not spin all their own yarn, and what part of it was used in the weaving of mixed goods, can not be ascertained. The item of- waste of other mills is also a duplication in the table of materials, but it calls for no explanation. In the table of products a part of the "yarn" item reappears inwoven goods, particularly in upholstery goods, and in sewing cotton, while the rest was transferred to the woolen and silk industries or was consumed in the electrical and other arts. The whole of the item of waste reappears in batting, twine, rope, and " all other products". PRODUCTS. The products of the cotton mills of the United States may be classified under three heads : woven goods, yarns and thread, and miscellaneous products. The value of woven goods produced by the establishments reporting was $198,741,200, which was 74.16 per cent of the total; of warps, yarn, and sewing thread, $44,885,096, or 16.75 per cent; of all other products, $24,355,428, or 9.09 per cent. An examination of the tables in detail brings out Vao fact, which experience confirms, that an immense proportion of the goods consumed in the countiy is coarse and medium fabrics which are most durable and substantial for every-day wear. In the ascertainment of the quantities of the several classes of woven goods manufactured, the square yard was taken as the universal unit for all branches of the textile industry. The product of all the mills was reduced to this uniform standard. The advantage of this rule for statistical purposes is too obvious to require either explanation or argument, and the uselessness of statements showing the number of running yards of fabrics varying from the width of print cloths to that of broad sheetings is equally apparent. First in importance, both in quantity and value, among woven goods are brown and bleached sheetings and shirtings, which amounted to 962,238,062 square yards, valued at $55,193,439, averaging 5.74 cents a square yard in value at the mill. This is not only the most extensive but the most widely distributed branch of the cotton industry, while the goods themselves are those which are in most universal use, and which are adapted to the largest variety of purposes iu household economy. The amount of print cloths, classed as "plain cloths for printing or converting" is but slightly below that of sheetings and shirtings, being 955,294,320 square yards; but the value, $43,550,174, is far below that of the leading class. The average value is 4.56 cents a square yard. Tlie largest part, by far, of this product is printed, and becomes the calico of commerce. The census accounts for the printing of 722,257,451 S(\uare yards, or 75.61 per cent of the whole; but the goods printed were not drawn exclusively from the fabrics technically classed as print cloths. The relative importance of most of the other classes of woven goods calls for no detailed remarks, particularly as the materials do not exist for a comijarison of the amounts produced in former years. The classification of " fine and fancy woven fabrics" draws atteiition to the extent to which fine goods are now produced in the country, and gives a means of ascertaining the amount of such goods consumed. We find a total amount of 127,373,179 square yards, valued at $12,545,929, produced in domestic mills, which are thus returned at .an average value of 9.85 cents a square yard. Among fine goods should also be classed a small, but not ascertainable, part of the ginghams manufactured in New England and Pennsylvania mills. JSTeglectiiig this small item we find that of the 3,002,761,037 square yards of woven goods produced in the country 4.24 per cent only iu amount is classed as "fine or fancy woven", while in value these goods represent but 6.31 per cent of the total. During the fiscal year ended June 30, 1890, the entries at the custom houses of the country for consumption (including both direct entries and withdrawn from warehouse) of cotton cloth exceeding 200 threads to the square inch, counting warp and filling, amounted to 10,734,281 square yards, valued at $1,559,889. From the comparative insignificance of these numbers it appears that the proportion of fine woven goods is still less than 5 per cent of the total quantity of cotton cloth consumed and barely 7 per cent of the value. It also appears that while more than nine-tenths of the finer goods consumed are produced in the country, the average foreign value of those imported is fully one-half greater to the square yard than the value at the mill of the goods produced in this country which are classed as fine. This illustrates what experience teaches, that the finest goods used in the United States are still imported from abroad. The manufacture of upholstery goods, which had a considerable develoi)ment in the last decade, is chiefly remarkable for its localization. Of the whole value, 82,070,239, of these goods reported for the entire country, Pennsylvania returns all except a value of $162,900, divided between Massachusetts and New York, with a small amount in Wisconsin. 180 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. YARN MILLS. The item of " yarns" has already been partially discussed under the head of materials, that is to say, so far as these yarns have been consumed in other mills classified as cotton, but there has been a large production of yarns which have become the material for other industries. They have been used as warps for worsted dress goods, also by the manufacturers of hosiery and knit goods, in the production of elastic fabrics, and for the covering of electric wires, an industry which has had an enormous development during recent years. The erection of mills for the production of yarn for these collateral uses is the leading feature in the extension of yarn production as a separate industry during the decade under review. It is comj)aratively easy to trace to their ultimate use most of the yarns which were not woven in the mills where they were produced. The establishments here reported produced 166,397,003 pounds of yarn for sale, and the importation during the year was 1,674,262 pounds, a total of 168,071,265 pounds. Of this amount 48,779,715 pounds were consumed in other cotton mills here reported, 83,624,868 pounds were consumed in woolen and hosiery industries, 4,338,789 pounds iu silk industry, and 1,474,514 pounds in elastic fabric factories, an aggregate of 138,217,886 j)ounds, leaving only 29,853,379 pounds to be accounted for in the electrical and other industries not here mentioned. SEWING COTTON— HISTORY OF THE INDUSTRY. One of the most important branches of the cotton manufacture is the manufacture of sewing cotton. The quantity returned during the census year was 13,868,309 pounds, having au aggregate value of $11,637,500. Unfortunately, no trustworthy statistics are in existence showing the amount of production at any former period, except that in the census of 1870 the production of 11,560,241 dozens of spool cotton is reported; but there is no measure of comj)arisou with the quantity now reported. This industry is one which has been established in the country in the face of much discouragement and of repeated failure. A century ago linen fabrics were much more common than fabrics of cotton, and linen thread was the ordinary material for sewing. When cotton thread was first introduced, it was a coarse and inferior article made of ordinary cotton, consisting of three cords twisted together, and was jiut up in skeins or in balls. There can be no doubt that cotton thread of this class was an early product of American spinning mills, although no record of its manufacture is preserved. The first introduction into this country of cotton thread upon wooden spools was m 1820, when the firm of John Clark, jr., & Co., founded at Glasgow, Scotland, in 1817, established an agency for the sale of such thread in New York. During the next twenty years other Scotch firms entered the market. The thread was of much better quality than that previously in use. It was composed of six strands of yarn, two of which were first twisted together in one dii^ection, and then three of the double strands were twisted in the opposite direction. The result was a thread having much greater stability of twist than was i)ossible for the earlier three-cord variety. Notwithstanding its superiority and the attractive form in which it was put up, which made it at once a favorite iu the market, it was a long time before its position was so assured as to induce domestic manufacturers to undertake to produce it. There were several establishments in the United States which, in the years from 1840 to 1850, attempted to twist and spool their own thread for sewing purposes, but their efiforts were confined to the production of three-cord thread, inferior in strength and finish, and the imperfections of their merchandise were covered by dyeing them in cheap colors. It was suited to some uses. For sewing thin and open woven fabrics, where the strain upon its strength and upon the stability of its twist was not too great, it answered the purj)ose. Not long before 1850 the Sagamore Company, of Portsmouth, New Hampshire, undertook to manufacture six-cord thread equal iu quality to the standard imported thread, but the skill uecessaiy for carding and spinning sea island cotton had not been attained, nor had the managers a mastery of the difficult and intricate processes of making six-cord thread. The enterprise was a failure and was abandoned. A few years later, about 1855, there was introduced into the country from England a three-cord thread known as a "glac6", or finished thread. Its i)olished surfaee, produced by meclianical means, made it really superior to any three-cord thread previously in the market, though still greatly inferior to the six-cord thread. The improvement drew the attention of such of the three cord spool cotton manufacturers as had survived the discouragement attendant upon their efforts to compete with better goods. The first corporation that engaged iu the enterprise of manufacturing glazed thread was the Williugton Thread Company, of Willington, Connecticut, a small concern having less than a thousand spinning spindles. This company had already been in the business since 1843 or 1844. The competition of this company was, curiously enough, not with the strong and well made six-cord thread which was sold, but with the cheap and poor thread which was given, or " thrown in", and it finally made a breach in the custom of "throwing in" a spool of cotton with the dress pattern. The process of finishing the thread was patented and the Willington Company was licensed to make use of it. About this time the Willimantic Linen Company, of Willimantic, Connecticut, which had been engaged in the manufacture of coarse, unbleached linen fabrics and shoe thread, finding the business unsatisfactory, turned its attention to the iwoduction of sewing- cotton, and secured all the rights under the patent for glazing thread except the rights under license held by the W^illington Company. A year or two later the Willimantic Linen Company, which retaitied and still retains its original name, although it finally ceased the manufacture of linen when it began the manufacture of spool cotton, TEXTILES— COTTON. 181 purchased the plant of the Willingtou Thread Comj>any. Before 1860 other finishing processes were invented and put in use by manufacturers in competition with the Willimantic CJonipany. Glazed cotton was manufactured by the firm of Green & Daniels, of Pawtucket, Rhode Island, and by several other concerns of less note at Pawtucket and Fall River. At the time of the beginning of the civil war a substantial industry in this branch of spool cotton had been established. In 1860 Mr. Timothy Merrick, who had been manager of the Willingtou Mill, and later had .been employed by the Willimantic Company, formed a partnership for the manufacture of '* satin finish" thread, which subsequently grew into the Merrick Thread Company. The civil war gave a great impetus to the home manufacture of spool thread, both by the greatly increased demand and by the heavy duties laid on the imported article. Another influence was now operating to compel American manufacturers to make a fresh effort in the direction of the production of six-cord thread. The sewing machine had been invented. The three-cord thread of the time was neither strong enough nor in other ways good enough for machine use. The alternative was presented of supplying that which the change in the market demanded or of retiring from business. At the same time the foreign manufacturers who had obtained a reputation in the American market perceived that imder the high duties upon manufactures it would be cheaper for them to produce their wares in the United States than to import them. In some cases they began by impoiting yarn spun in England to be twisted and spooled here; iji other cases they introduced spinning at once. The period between 1860 and 1870 was one of not a little discouragement to the purely American manufacturer of six-cord thread. The chief experimenters were, besides the Willimantic Linen Company, the Merrick Thread Company, and the firm of Green & Daniels, already mentioned, the Hadley Company, of Holyoke, Massachusetts, and the Williston Mills, of Easthampton, Massachusetts. Experience shows that the users of sewing cotton are extremely conservative. It is difficult to persuade them to try a new make of thread when they are satisfied with that which they ha\e been using. The obstacles encountered by manufacturers induced the most of them to abandon a hopeless struggle. Nevertheless some of them persevered, but of them all oidy the Willimantic Linen Company and the Merrick Thread Company succeeded in producing an article equal in all respects to the foreign brands, and finally established a position and a reputation. Meanwhile, three great British makers of thread transferred the production of their supply for the American market to this country. The first such venture was that of the Clark Thread Company, whose mills were erected at Newaik, New Jersey and began operation in 1865. A little later the firm of J. & P. Coats, of Paisley, Scotland, established the manufacturing plant at Pawtucket, Rhode Island, known as the Couant Thread Company. Subsequently, in 1883, John Clark, jr., & Co., the first company to introduce six-cord thread into this country, eiected the mills of the Clark Mile-end Cotton Company at Kearney, New Jersey. This completes the list of the large manufactiuers of sewing cotton operating in the United States before 1890. , STATISTICS FOR 1800. TLe following table gives tlic important facts relating to the sewing thread industry as ascertained at the Eleventh Census: MANUFACTURE OF SEWING COTTON: 1890. Number ofestablishmonts reporting jjroduct -.. 34 Capital $27,787,196 Amouut of product (13,868, 309 pounds) $11, 637, 500 Number of spindles employed 679, 484 emplot:5s axd waoes. EMPLOYES AND WAOES. Average number of employes . ; Total wages j Average annual earnings I Average weekly earnings {50 weeks in year). 9,220 *:;, 500, 516 $379. 67 .$7. 59 2,906 Women, i Children. 5, 465 850 ,571,278 ' $1,787,243 $141,995 .$540.89 ; $327.03 | $167.05 $10. 82 $6. 54 $3. 34 PEIXUIPAL MATEKIALS USED. KINDS OF COTTON. Total cotton consumed . . . Sea island Other domestic Eg.vptian A'arn purchased 21, 272, 349 7, 026, 334 7, 561, 910 4,011,445 2, 672, 660 Cost. ,412 313 1, 780, 186 863, 102 654, 226 1, 114, 801 182 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Au examination of these figures reveals some interesting facts. In the first place, it will be noticed that the average wages paid are much higher than in the cotton industry generally, and higher than those in the geographical divisions where wages are highest. Thus the average weekly wages of men, based on a year of 50 weeks, are $10.82 as compared with $8.68 for all cotton manufactures in the middle states, where the rate is highest. The average of women is $6.54 as compared with $5.76 for all women employed in cotton mills in the same section ; and children's wages are $3.34 a week as compared with $3.17 in New England, where children receive the highest rates. Again, it maybe observed that nearly all the sea island cotton and nearly two-thirds of the Egyptian consumed in the country are accounted for by the sewing cotton manufacture directly, while most of the remainder of both varieties is no doubt to be traced iu the yarn purchased. In this last mentioned category, nevertheless, is to be found a considerable part of the imported yarn. There is a striking difference between the sewing cotton manufacture and the manufacture of cotton generally in the relations between cost of cotton, cost of labor, and value of products. Whereas, as shown on page 167, the cost of cotton represents 43.81 per cent of the value of products, it accounts for only 37.91 per cent of the selling value of spool cotton, although the average cost per pound of the cotton used is much higher than the price of ordinary cotton. This difference is partially accounted for by the large expenditure necessary for preparing the thread for market in attractive form. Labor, also, is not only more highly paid than in ordinary spinning mills, but labor as a whole forms 30.08 per cent of the total selling value of the product as against 25.93 per cent of the value of all cotton products. The difference, however, is not so marked when we compare the percentage of labor cost in sewing thread with the general returns for New England and the middle states, where most of the factories here under examination are located. DYEING, BLEACHING, AND FINISHING. The table which gives the facts relative to bleaching, dyeing, and printing cotton goods in spinning and weaving establishments is, in itself, an incomplete exhibit. In order to ascertain what part of the spun and woven product of the country was subjected to bleaching or coloring processes before entering into consumption it is necessary to include the operations of establishments exclusively devoted to these processes with those of establishments which finish their own goods. But the returns as they stand are interesting as showing the absence in this country of the specialization of industries that has been effected abroad. It is well known that in Europe spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing, and printing are five separate and distinct industries, any two of which are rarely carried on in the same establishment. While there are to be found in this country establishments in which but one of these industries is carried on, yet, as is remarked elsewhere, the ordinary custom is to combine two or more of them, and there are great corporations, some of the largest in the country, which perform all five of the processes. Indeed, it appears that more than one-fourth of all the dyeing and finishing of cotton goods was performed in mills operating spindles or looms, or both. The general table showing the amount and value of the processes as performed in cotton mills is useful only iu completing the exhibits of these mills. The figures themselves furnish the basis for no important conclusions; but in combiuatiou with the returns obtained by Special Agent Peter T. Wood, "Dyeing and finishing textiles", they show the form in which goods reached the market. , It appears that there were produced in the United States during the year 955,294,320 square yards of "plain cloths for printing and converting", iu other words, of "print cloths". There were pi-inted in cotton miUs 142,590,083 square yards, and in printing mills 579,667,368 square yards, a total of 722,257,451 square yards. Of these goods, which were not printed, and of other plain goods, 40,338,722 square yards were dyed in cotton mills, and 440,490,822 square yards were dyed in dychouses, a total of 486,835,544 square yards of dyed cloth. In cotton mills 57,7r)8 square yards of cloth were bleached, a total of 519,89S,065 square yards. The dyeing of yarn, 90,702,931 pounds in spinning mills and 48,762,759 pounds in dyehoases, 139,555,690 pounds in all, reappears for the most part in the ginghams, ticks, denims, stripes, and upholstery goods, though some of it represents colored sewing thread and yarn consumed in other ways than by weaving. We have this rough statement of the total production of cloth and of the amount bleached, dyed in the piece or the yarn, and printed: SQUARE YAKDS. Totiil production of woven goods 3, 002, 761, 037 Printed 722,257,451 Dyed in the piece 486, 885, 544 Dyed in the yarn - 436,118,141 Bleaclied 519,898,065 Total finished , 2,165,109,201 Entered into consumption " iu the gray" - 837, 651,836 In obtaining the facts relative to finishing processes, both in cotton mills and in separate establishments, the rule was adopted of obtaining the additional value given to goods by subjecting them to these processes. Thus a duplication of material and product, which is inevitable in the case of many manufacturing industries, was avoided, and an error is escaped which stands as a pitfall for the unwary when one attempts to ascertain the percentage of labor cost in a given product. TEXTILES— COTTON. 183 FINENESS OF GOODS— AVERAGE NUMBER OP YARN. It is remarked, in that section of this report which refers to the products of manufacture, that by far the* largest part of the goods turned out by the cotton mills of the country are the coarse and medium fabrics which are in ordinary use by all classes in the community. The lines between coarse and medium, and between medium and fine goods are, of course, vague and badly defined, but it is generally understood that yarns under No. 20 are coarse, and those over No. 40 are fine. The yarns which are woven into print cloths, of which the calico of commerce is made, are for the most part No. 28 for wraps and No. 36 for filling. The best standard sheetings and shirtings are spun from nearly the same numbers. It will thus be seen how large a proportion of the goods in common use are. of no higher than medium grade. It may be well to define the meaning attached by manufacturers to the word "number" as applied to yarn. The quantity of yarn is expressed in hanks of 840 yards, and the "number" of the yarn is the number of hanks which weigh a pound troy, (a) Thus "No. 20" is yarn of which 20 hanks weigh 1 pound of 5,7(;() grains. 1 hank weighs 28S grains. A hank of No. 60 weighs 96 grains, or slightly more than one-fifth (0.2194) of an ounce avoirdupois; and it takes 8| yards of the same number to weigh 1 grain. The earliest undertakings in this country, in the spinning of cotton, were for the production of coarse and medium goods, and progress has taken place in the direction both of coarse and of fine goods. The development of such great industries as the manufacture of duck is an example of the growth in one direction. Although in the number of square yards of product duck represents less than 2 per cent (1.84) of the whole amount of woven goods, yet it represents more than 5 per cent of the cotton consumed. The average number of yarn that is woven into duck is less than 10, that is, it is twice as coarse as that in the coarser grades of sheeting and three times as coarse as that in standard sheetings and print cloths. These last mentioned classes of fabrics are themselves an advance in fineness over the early products of American looms. In recent years there has been a marked tendency toward the manufacture of medium flue and very fine yarns and fabrics. Ordinarily each establishment devotes its machinery chiefly or wholly to the production of one general class of goods; that is to say, coarse, medium, or fine, but this rule has many exceptions, and there are a few cases of mills which produce so wide a range of yarns as to include No. 6 and No. 140. A simple average of the fineness of all the yarn spun in a city, a state, or the country, teaches very little that is useful, for the reason that a tendency in the direction of fineness may be wholly obliterated, in such an average, by the existence of a tendency in the other direction also. A large demand for duck at the same time that extensive mills were beginning the production of very fine goods would leave the " average number" substantially unchanged. Nevertheless such returns as have been obtained from the mills do show in a general way that the product of 1890 was yarn of higher counts than that of 1880, but to separate coarse from medium and medium from fine makes the exhibit of more value because less dependent upon an average of things essentially unlike each other. Two methods of finding the average number of yarn are available. That which was pursued in ascertaining the number as reported by the special agent of the Tenth Census Aras based upon the spindle as a unit. The method may be best shown by a single example. In mill A there are 30,000 spindles producing yarn for print cloths, average No. 32; in mill B are 20,000 spindles producing yarn for duck, average No. 8; in mill C are 10,000 spindles producing yarn for fine ginghams, average No. 45. We have, then, this calculation : A. B. C . Totiil Spiudles. 60, 000 X umber. Product 1,570,000 30, 000 20, 000 10, 000 :i2 8 4,'. 960, 000 160, 000 450, 000 1,570,000 -H 60,000 = 20,', average of the 3 mills. This method seems faulty for two reasons. In the first place the spindles in one of the mills may be of the most modern pattern, having a speed of 9,000 to 10,000 turns a minute, while another mill may be filled with the antique machinery of the last generation, whose spindles turn not more than 6,000 times a minute and produce only two-thirds as much yarn per spindle as the new. It is obviously a mistake to average quantities which are stated in terms of units having different values. In the second place the average number of the yarn produced by a number of spindles, all of the same pattern and run at the same speed, spinning one-half No. 8 and one-half No. 32, is not No. 20. It is necessary to put more twist into fine yarn than into coarse. Indeed, the number of turns per inch increases rapidly as the fineness of the yarn increases. There is a twofold result of this fact: first, that spindles running on coarse yarn, which requires but a twist of ten turns per inch, can dispose of twice as much roving delivered to them from the rolls as other spindles run at the same speed upon yarn which requires a The "number" of sewing cotton has the same basis. Before the introduction of six-cord spool thread' No. 40'' sewing cotton was the thread made by twisting together :i strands of "No. 40" yarn. In six-cord thread the yarn used is of double the fineness. Thus the thread to-day sold as Ko. 40 consists of 6 strands of ISTo. 80 yarn. 184 MANUFACTURING- INDUSTRIES. twenty tmiis to the inch; and, second, inasmuch as there is more contraction where the twist is increased, the proportionate length of fine yarn spun is still further reduced. It will thus be seen that the average number as ascei'tained by the use of the spindle as a unit would be exceedingly misleading, even as between mills equipped with spindles of identical pattern and speed; and if to this confusion we add that which is inevitable when we are obtaining the average of mills using spindles of widely varying capacity, the uselessness of this method becomes evident. N"evertheless, since this was the only method available at the census of 1880, one calculation has been made on this basis for purposes of comparison. The alternative method adopted for a second calculation of the average number seems certainly to show more accurately what it is required to find, namely, the average number of the yarn produced. In this calculation the unit adopted is the hank, a given length of yarn. This system is also best illustrated by an example: mill D produces 1,000,000 pounds of No. 28 yarn ; mill E, 2,000,000 pounds of Fo. 10 yarn, and mill F 500,000 pounds of No. 50 yarn. We then have : Total D E F Pounds of yarn . 3, 500, 000 1, 000, 000 2, 000, 000 500, 000 Number. 28 10 50 Hanlis. (a) 7S, 000, 000 1 28, 000, 000 20, 000, COO 25, 000. 000 73,000,000 -i- 3,500,000 = 20?, average number. a It may be noted that tbe figures in this column do not, strictly speaking, show the mimher of hanks since the number of yarn is based upon the troy pound, \Tbereag the yarn is reported in pounds avoirdupois. But the result of the calculation is not in tbe least atifeoted by this dilference. The column headed " hanks " shows the actual relative lengths of the yarn spun of each of the numbers, and the final division gives the average number of the whole quantity. Upon an examination of the table wherein are exhibited the average number of yarn as obtained at the Tenth Census and the number as ascertained by both methods at this census, it will be observed that the second method, based upon production of yarn, yields a lower average in the case of almost every state. The exceptions are without significance and need no explanation. What has already been said with reference to the former method of solution will indicate precisely why the average number is always lower by the second process. Spindles producing high counts not only consume less cotton each than those at work upon coarser yarn (this would make no difference in the average if the consumption were inversely proportioned to the number), but they produce less yarn in length, and therefore the true average of two spindles producing No. 10 and the other No. 20 is appreciably below No. 15. Accepting for what it is worth the ascertainment of the average number using the spindle as a basis, we find that the spinning of 1890 was of greater average fineness in the country as a whole, in each of the geogTaphical divisions, and in most of the states. There is apparently a slight falling off in three of the New England states but in the case of two of them, Connecticut and Vermont, the appearance is evidently due to the fact that ten years ago the number was stated in integers. The small decline in New Hampshire is probably to be attributed wholly to the large predominance of a single great establishment. The average number is highest in New Jersey a result which is due entirely to the great relative importance of the sewing cotton industry in that state. While the comparative importance of this industry has increased during the last decade, yet the increase has certainly not been as great as appears, for the reason that the aAerage number in 1880 must have been higher than is stated. New Jersey is also the state in which the widest divergence between the two statements of average number is observable, while Rhode Island is the state having a large number of spindles in which the difference is least. The explanation is obvious to those who study the reasons already given for the existence of any difference. In New Jersey, together with much fine spinning there is also not a little coarse spinning. In Rhode Island the range of numbers is smaller. It did not need the figures of the census to prove that there had been an advance in the south in the direction of fine spinning. If the progress seems to be less than might have been supposed, it may be that the method of ascertaining the number does not reveal the whole truth. It Avill be seen that the true average number in 1890 is higher than the computed number in 1880, which can be said neither of New England nor of the middle states. While it can be successfully contended that the computation of the average number on the basis of pounds of yarn si)un does show precisely what it purports to show, yet there is no doubt a way in which information of a far more useful character might be obtained. It is suggested that the combination of coarse, mediu.m, and fine yarns results in a concealment of what it is really desirable to know, and that it would be well hereafter to divide yarn products into tlie several classes. The returns at the Eleventh Census show the weight of goods spun in each state of No. 20 yarn, and under, of yarn between No. 20 and No. 40, and of yarn above No. 40, and while it is not possible to give the average number of yarn of each class the statement following will be useful for purposes of comparison. TEXTILES— COTTON. WEIGHT OP SPUN PRODUCT, IN POUNDS 185 The tTnited States New England states Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut Middle states New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Delaware Maryland Southern states Virginia North Carolina , South Carolina Georgia Alabama Mississippi Kentucky Tennessee All other (a) Western states Ohio Indiana Illinois "Wisconsin Another (a) No. 20 yarn and below. 480, 273, 239 207, 672, 353 Xos. 21 to 40. 386, 723, 173 26, 577, 650 64, 984, 891 1,243,608 103, 234, 514 3, 280, 776 13,351,014 62, 850, 759 331,611,339 28, 385, 603 30, 182, 517 2, 508, 883 186,750,241 S.-J, 640, 821 22, 143, 274 40, 139, 655 6, 553, 540 1, 466, 672 32, 215, 744 2, 325, 960 20, 298, 843 197, 443, 432 7, 719. 379 41,972,080 53, 276, 593 52, 611, 129 11,699.265 6, 966, 959 2, 246, 776 12, 310, 343 8, 641, 918 12, 306, 695 1, 425, 000 6, 649, 187 950, 000 1,678,474 1, 604, 034 25, 529, 074 4. 631, 593 8, 023, 174 1. 602, 278 453, 036 12, 643, 916 Above No. 40, 34, 846, 826 34, 800, 462 18, 812, 519 11,116,338 4, 871, 695 45, 374 3, 076, 558 1. 244. 770 6, 221, 249 2. 001, 339 2, 428, 263 1 ! 1.424,131 1,004,132 a Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establish- ments may not be disclosed. These establishments were distributed as follows: southern states — Louis- iana, 2; Texas, 1 J Arkansas, 2; western states — California,!; Iowa, 1; Missouri,!. In coiisidering the followiug tables i)resentiag the statistics of cotton manufacture, reference should be made to the general remarks on manufactures, also to the text and tables on the combined textile industries that precede this report. Table 1 presents for the purpose of convenient comparison the statistics relating to cotton manufacture as reported at different census periods. The table comprises all the items of the inquiry common to a number of such periods and the statistics are given for each decennial year from 1840 to 1 890, both inclusive. Table 2 is a statement in detail for 1890 showing each item of the schedule of inquiry, excepting details relating to employes and wages, by totals for the United States, for geographical groups of states, and for each state. Table 3 is a presentation of employes and wages for the cotton industry considered in its entirety. It shows^ by totals for each state and for the United States, the average number of men, women, and children distributed into the following classes : (1) officers or firm members actively engaged in the industry or in supervision; (2) clerks; (3) operatives and skilled labor; (4) unskilled labor; (5) pieceworkers. The average number of weeks employed, the average weekly earnings per employe, and the total wages are shown for men, women, and children, in each class excepting pieceworkers. The statement for pieceworkers gives the average number of men, women, and children, respectively, and the total wages reported for each. Table 4 shows the average number of men, women, and children, respectively, employed at each weekly rate of pay, by totals for each state, and for the United States. 186 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT FOE THE UNITED STATES, BY 61 62 63 64 65 i 60 STATES AND TERRITORIES. TJiiited states ; 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 New England states : 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Maine: 1840. 1850. 1860. 1870. 1880. 1890. New Hampsliire : 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Yermont : 1840... 1850... 1860... 1870... 1880... 1890... Massachusetts : 1840 1850 1870. 1880. 1890. Eh ode Island ; 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Connecticut : 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 I ' New York : i 1840 1850.. i.. 1860 1870 1880 1890 Middle states ; 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 New iTersey ; 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Number of establish- Capital, (a) ments. 1,240 $51, 102, 359 1,094 74, 500, 931 1,091 98, 585, 269 956 140, 706, 291 756 208, 280, 346 905 354, 020, 843 674 34,931,399 561 53, 832, 430 570 69, 260, 279 508 100, 103, 770 439 156. 754, 690 402 243, 153, 249 6 1, 398, OOU 12 3, 329, 700 19 6, 018, 325 9, 839, 685 15,292,078 20, 850, 754 5, 523, 200 10, 950, 500 12, 586, 880 13, 332. 710 24 23 58 44 44 36 36 19, 877, 084 27 26, 801, 933 7 118, 100 9 8 271, 200 8 670, 000 6 1 431 986 278 17, 414, 099 28, 455, 630 213 217 33, 704, 674 191 44, 714, 375 175 72, 291, 601 187 128, 838, 837 209 7, 326, 000 158 6, 675. 000 153 10, 052, 200 139 18, 836, 300 115 28, 047, 331 94 38, 798, 161 116 3,152,000 128 4, 219, 100 129 6, 627, 000 111 12, 710, 700 82 20, 310, 500 65 26, 431, 578 298 11, 583, 882 352 12,970,446 340 18, 789, 069 274 27, 723, 300 139 31, 014, 759 239 51, 676, 249 117 4, 900, 772 86 4, 176. 920 79 5, 383, 479 81 8, 511, 3r,6 36 11, 399, 638 42 13, 290, 745 43 1, 722, 810 21 1, 483, 500 44 1, 320, 550 27 2, 762, 000 17 3, 807, 750 17 13, 519, 972 AVERAGE NCMBER OP EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. Aggregates. Average number. Total wages, 72, 119 92, 286 122, 028 135, 369 !>174, 659 221,585 46, 834 61, 893 81, 403 94, 775 127, 185 148, 718 1,414 3,739 6,764 9,439 11, 864 13, 992 6,991 12, 122 12, 730 12, 542 16, 529 19, 533 241 379 451 735 737 20,928 28, 730 38, 451 43, 512 61,844 76, 213 12, 086 10, 875 14, 077 16, 745 21, 474 24, 832 5,153 6,186 9,002 12, 086 14, 739 13, 411 18, 187 19, 699 29, 078 28, 974 28, 367 32, 344 7,407 6,320 7,659 9,144 9,305 8,401 2,408 1,712 2,534 3,514 4, 222 5,683 $23, 940, 108 39, 044, 132 42, 040, 510 69, 489, 272 16, 720, 920 28, 740, 788 32, 170, 861 49, 908, 591 1, 368, 888 2, 565, 197 2, 936, 640 4, 372, 473 2, 883, 804 3, 989, 853 4, 290, 960 6, 429, 084 78, 468 125, 000 161,748 220, 742 7, 798, 476 13, 589, 305 15, 828, 571 26, 230, 667 2, 847, 804 5, 224, 650 5, 320, 303 8, 131. 142 1, 743, 480 3, 246, 783 3, 632, 639 4, 524, 483 5, 464, 772 7, 994. 470 6, 613, 260 10, 763. 873 1, 405. 292 2, 626, 131 1, 994. 755 2, 563, 730 468, 336 1,009,351 1, 156, 961 2, 054, 282 Males above 16 years. 33, 150 46, 859 42, 790 61, 760 91, 464 20, 745 29, 886 30, 203 46, 897 65, 057 780 1.828 2,006 3,963 5,273 2,911 3,829 3,752 5,235 290 94 157 125 214 338 9,293 13, 691 13, 694 22, 774 33. 730 4,959 6, 353 5.583 8,344 10, 761 2,708 4.028 4.443 6.368 0,665 8, 274 12,212 8,466 9,161 12, 070 2,032 3,107 2,608 3.012 3,331 616 1.010 1,086 1,223 1,872 ' Yaliio of hirt'd property is not included in the capital repor'.ed in 1890, because it was not included in the reports of previous census years. TEXTILES— COTTON. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TEEEITOEIES: 1840-1890. 187 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES — Continued. MACHINERY. MATERIALS USED. \ 1 Females above 15 years. Chililren. Spindles. Looms. Total cost. Cotton consumed. Value of products. Bales. Pounds. Cost. 1 1 2, 284, 631 $46 350 453 59, 136 75, 169 69. 637 84, 558 106, 689 .$34,835,056 57, 285, 634 111, 736, 936 102, 206, 347 154, 912, 979 641,240 61, 869, 184 1 2 115,681,774 ! 3 5, 235, 727 7. 132, 415 .0, 653, 435 14, 188, 103 126, 313 157, 310 225. 769 324; 866 422, 704, 976 398, 308, 257 22, 942 28, 341 23,432 177. 489, 739 4 i, 570, 344 2, 261, 600 750, 343, 981 1, 117, 946, 776 .$86, 946, 725 117, 392, 576 192,090,110 267, 981, 724 5 6 7 1, 597, 394 i 31, 611 880 41, 148 51.517 50, 805 02, ,'568 73, 496 23, 800. 904 37, 670, 782 78, 816, 481 74, 290, 026 101. 101, 446 430, 603 42, 040, 178 8 3, 858, 962 5, 498, 308 8, 632, 087 10, 836, 155 93, 344 114, 982 184, 701 250, 116 283, 701, 306 275, 625, 278 541, 373, 880 714,691,714 79, 359, 9110 9 is, 767 17,720 10, 165 124, 959, 053 10 1, 129, 488 1,426,968 63, 169, 434 76, 749, 130 143, 363, 030 181, 112, 453 11 12 29, 736 970, 397 2,959 4,936 6,246 6,481 7,856 1, 573, 110 3, 319, 335 6, 746, 780 7, 320, 162 8, 446, 736 31, 531 2, 596, 356 [ 14 281, 056 459,772 695, 924 885, 762 195, 173 6,877 9,902 15, 971 21, 825 23, 733, 165 25, 887, 771 64, 185, 061 66, 717, 252 6,235,623 , 15 11,844,181 ' 16 687 1,421 863 112, 381 132, 604 6, 234, 901 7, 053, 168 13, 319, 363 15, 316, 909 4, 142, 304 8, 830, 619 13,699,994 16, 999, 673 17, 953, 403 21, 968, 002 113, 000 196, 100 367, 460 646, 510 866, 864 914, 686 16, 553, 423 19,712,461 38, 004, 256 69,493,153 72, 289, 518 100, 202, 882 7, 116, 792 6,447,120 12,151,191 22, 049, 203 22,876,111 27, 310, 499 ■ 2,715,964 4, 257, 622 8, 911, 387 14. 026, 334 16, 069, 771 16,409,476 . 12, 222, 200 12, 782, 718 26. 534, 700 17 18 19 9,211 8,901 7,490 9,596 0,349 4, 839, 429 7. 128, 196 12, 318, 867 10, 146, 904 12, 962, 939 83, 026 ''0 636, 788 749, 843 944, 053 1, 195, 643 i 7,254 17, 336 19, 091 24, 299 31,850 61, 002, 324 41,469,719 76, 386, 499 107, 319, 124 1,300 1,698 394 99 167, 673 214, 034 8, 629, 063 11, 203, 742 23 24 147 222 242 360 309 114. 415 181, 030 292, 269 608, 297 642, 065 2,243 'fi 17, 800 28 768 65, 081 71, 591 665, 095 362 628 1,180 1,176 1,447,250 1, 235, 662 3, 662. 088 4, 647, 889 97 84 171 90 ■>« 7,404 8,964 468, 607 498, 348 29 30 31 19, 437 24, 760 24, 065 31, 497 38, 392 11, 289, 309 17, 214, 592 37, 371. 699 35, 994; 109 56, 686, 283 223, 607 3? 1, 673, 498 2, 619, 541 4, 236, 084 5, 824, 518 518, 817 42, 779 65, 343 95, 321 133, 227 134, 012, 769 130, 664, 040 273, 718, 889 386, 767, 326 ! 33 5,753 7,573 4,091 %1 674, 857 772, 520 31, 107, 154 40, 370, 307 35 36 37 5,916 7,724 8,028 9,199 10, 889 3,484,679 5, 799, 223 13, 268. 315 12, 291, 437 14, 347, 672 50, 713 38 814, 554 1, 043, 242 1, 764, 569 1, 924, 486 181,319 17, 315 18, 075 29, 669 43, 106 41, 614, 797 44, 630, 787 81, 137, 172 97, 982, 155 39 3,134 8.931 3; 182 4fl 167, 480 193, 291 10, 457, 770 11, 147, 080 41 42 13 3,478 4,974 4,734 5,445 5,701 2, 500, 062 4, 028, 406 8, 318, 651 8, 029, 127 8,215,751 39, 483 ii 435, 466 597, 142 936, 376 934, 155 487, 571 8,675 11, 943 18, 261 18, 933 31, 891, Oil 31. 747, 309 45 2,909 2,926 1,045 16 109, 703 104, 655 52, 384, 171 52, 257, 968 6,281,939 5, 976, 486 47 48 11, 425 16, 866 14, 120 13, 18S 16, 253 7, 349, 795 13, 923, 671 23, 793, 695 16, 191, 758 23, 044, 093 125, 392 50 1, 042, 480 1, 246, 045 1, 391, 164 1, 633, 722 25, 185 34, 974 27, 318 35, 074 87, iis, 715 =^1 6,382 6,018 4,021 80, 937, 966 109, 321, 428 128, 184, 238 SS t^QT 7R^ ?;9 228, 729 261, 154 13,2.J8, 526 ' 29! 389^286 13, 900, 748 40, 664, 476 53 54 211,659 3 640 237 ^^ 3,688 4, 652 4,540 4,201 4,034 1, 985, 973 3,061,105 6, 990, 626 4, 652, 745 5, 564, 261 37, 778 3, 591. 989 66 6, 676, 878 : 57 11,178,211 58 8,266,836 i 59 9, 777, 295 1 60 2, 086, 104 1 61 348, 584 , 7, 885 23, 945, 027 24, 783, 361 31, 656, 594 39.622,067 1,990 2,092 1,036 561, 658 606, 796 63,744 12, 403 13, 466 64, 614 78,824 3, 981, 106 4, 270, 665 1,096 1,524 1,745 2,291 3,398 666, 645 1, 165. 435 1, 964, 758 2, 018, 175 3, 028, 933 14, 437 123, 548 200, 680 232, 221 374, 442 1,567 2,176 3,180 3 673 9. 094, 649 7, 920, 035 9,960,609 12, 301, 151 2, 217, 728 1 63 683 708 413 21, 069 25, 723 1. 319, 422 1.816,468 4, 548, 275 ; 65 6, 902, 615 1 66 6 Includes 2,115 officers and clerks for wtom no wages are reported. 188 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1 COMPARATIVE .STATEMENT FOK THE UNITED STATE.S, BY STATES AND TEHRITORIES. 1^ umber of establish- ments. 106 208 185 138 59 158 11 12 11 6 8 7 21 24 20 22 19 15 Capital. AVERAOE NUMBER Of EMPLOVES A.VD TOTAL WAGES. Males above 16 years. Aggregates. Average number. Total -wages. Peunsylvauia: $3, 325, 400 4, 528, 925 9, 203, 040 12,550,720 10, 3'il, 985 15,884,936 330, 500 460, 100 582, 500 1,165,000 874,570 1,683,803 1, 304, 400 2,236,000 2,254,500 2, 734, 250 4, 600, 816 7, 296, 793 5,522 7. 663 14, 994 12,730 9,957 12,960 566 838 1,109 726 797 987 2,284 o 1850 3,564 6,412 3,859 3,413 5,280 3 I860 . $2, 768, 340 3, 496, 986 2, 502, 688 4, 687, 088 4 1870 . . - . 5 1880 6 1890 7 Delaware : 1840 H 1850 413 520 225 243 282 q I860 220, 224 190,069 192, 727 324, 328 in 1870 11 1880 1' 1890 13 Maryland: (a) 1840 ■\,\ 1850 3,022 2,687 1,008 1,093 688 1,270 1,305 1-T I860 582, 780 16 1870 2,860 4,086 4,313 671, 933 766, 129 1, 134, 445 17 1880 18 1890 J District of Columbia : (a) •'0 1850 1 1 85, 000 45, 000 144 95 41 70 '>^ 19, 800 99 1870 il 0,j 1890 1 Southern states : 248 166 166 151 161 239 22 27 16 U 8 9 25 28 39 33 49 91 15 18 17 12 14 34 19 35 33 34 40 53 4,331,078 T, 256. 056 9, 840, 221 11, 088, 315 17,37.5,897 53. 827. 803 1, 299, 020 1, 908, 800 1,367,543 1, 128, 000 1, 190, 100 2, 966, 889 996, 300 1, 058, 800 1, 272, 750 1, 030. 900 2, 855, 800 10, 775, 134 617, 450 857. 200 801,825 1, 337, 000 2,776,100 11.141,833 673, 835 1,736,150 2. 126, 103 3,433,265 6, 348, 657 17, 664, 675 6,642 10, 043 10, 152 10, 173 16, 741 37, 168 1,816 2,963 1,441 1,741 1,112 2.019 1,219 1,619 1,755 1,453 3.343 8.742 570 1,019 891 1,123 2,053 8.192 779 2,272 2, 813 2,846 6,349 10, 530 Ofi 1850 3,886 4,113 3,640 5,056 13, 254 97 1860 . .... 1,481,704 1, 929, 779 2,760,986 7. 817. 069 98 1870 99 1880 3fl Virginia : 32 1850 1,275 694 921 301 592 P9 1860 260, 856 229, 750 169, 789 406, 824 S(i 1870 '. 36 37 Korth Carolina: 1850 '189,744' 182, 951 439, 659 1,646,196 442 440 258 875 3,014 I860 - 40 1870 - - 1880 42 1890 . '. 43 SiMitli Carolina: 1840 44 1850 . 399 342 289 696 2,965 I860 ^, 123, 300 257, 680 380, 844 1,646,574 46 1870 1890 ■-- Cieorj^ia : 50 1850 - , . . . 873 1,131 1,147 1,987 4.061 51 I860 , 415, 332 ^ 611, 868 1, 135, 184 2. 366, 085 1870 53 'I'l 1890 .. Florida . 1840 n6 1850 ib) 1 80, 000 30, 000 95 65 28 40 7,872 "il 1880 1 11, 'JOO 33 5, 000 21 fin 1890 ... 61 Alabama : 1840 14 12 14 13 16 13 35, 575 651, 900 1,316,000 931, 000 1,246,500 2, 853, 015 82 715 1,312 1,032 1,490 2,137 1850 346 543 303 426 783 198, 108 216, 679 239, 998 447, 173 fi'l 1870 f!5 66 1890 a Maryland and tlio District of Columbia are classed iu this tablo a< in iddle states for purposes of comparison. TEXTILES— COTTON. 189 GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES : 1840-1890— Continued. AVEEAQE NUMBER OP BMPIX3TfiS AND TOTAL WAGES— continued. MACHINERY. MATERIALS CSEIl. Females above 15 years. Looms. Total cost. Cotton oon.iumed. Value of prtiilucts. i Bales. Pounds. j Cost. 140, 494 , $5, 013, 007 5, 322, 262 13.650,114 17, 490, 080 11, 021, 064 18, 431, 773 332, 272 538, 439 941, 703 1, 060, 898 871, 007 1,095,001 1, 150, 580 2, 120, 504 2, 973, 877 4, 862, 808 4, 682, 114 5,467,792 4,099 8,582 8,097 4,457 6,263 $3, 152. 630 7,386,213 10,724,062 6, 105, 700 10, 485, 247 44,162 476, 079 434, 246 425, 891 439, 638 24,492 12, 094 12, 862 8,488 13, 974 ,37,496,203 32,953,318 40,311,809 44, 829, 588 2,774 2,087 1,417 83, 997 92, 705 $4, 749, 428 4, 371, 693 425 589 280 362 488 312, 068 570, 102 704,733 527, 205 587,646 4,730 38, 974 29, 534 46, 188 53,916 41, 182 986 771 822 996 3, 403, 000 2, 587, 615 3, 236, 184 4, 465, 825 215 192 217 7,512 8,876 427, 855 475, 490 2, 014 1,594 1,452 1,877 2,070 "i," 165, 579 1,698,413 3, 409. 426 2,887,933 3, 378, 016 23, 325 61, 835 89, 112 126, 706 158, 930 1,670 1,947 2,425 2,966 12, 880, 119 12, 693, 647 24, 166, 232 27, 266, 667 720 939 938 51, 537 56, 026 2, 780, 716 2, 972, 432 103 67, 000 47, 403 ^60 100, 000 74, 400 1 2,560 ] 83 1 294, 117 :::;: t::;:;;;;; 1 1 180, 927 2, 241, 595 6,464,488 8, 460, 337 11,372.186 16, 356, 508 41.513,711 446,063 1, 486, 334 1, 489, 971 1, 436, 800 1, 040, 962 1,732,648 438,900 6,157 6.039 4,190 7,587 15,099 3, 332, 631 4,954,126 7, 419, 010 9, 999. 145 27,764,056 78, 140 2. 343 4,098 8,815 298, 651 327, 871 542, 048 1.554,000 i 42, 262 6,789 6,256 11, 898 36,266 46,786,510 34, 361, 195 84, 528, 757 260, 837, 646 182, 349 526, 856 8, 890. 408 24, 508, 776 1,688 747 607 530 951 828, 375 811,187 937, 820 640, 391 1, 199, 578 17, 785 ' 49, 440 ' 77, 116 : 44, 340 94, 294 47 934 2,160 1,310 1,322 2,517 7, 544, 297 4, 255, 383 5, 087, 519 10, 616, 206 313 281 476 11,461 22,731' 601, 790 1. 08U, 773 1,177 1,315 916 1,727 3,657 531, 903 622, 363 963, 809 1,463,645 6, 239, 902 1 13, 617 41, 884 39, 897 92, 385 337, 786 16, 355 761 618 1,790 7,254 5, 540, 738 4, 2.38 276 1,046,047 1 'Mr, (1^9 279 741 2,071 27, 642 114, 371 11,832,641 i 1,125,984 63, 546, 289 5, 396, 974 2,654,482 9, 563, 443 369, 000 748 338 620 295,971 9,929 ;::; i 30, 890 34, 940 82, 334 : 332, 784 42, 589 525 3, 978, 061 4, 756, 823 15, 601, 005 64, 000, 600 508 ^^^ 745 ] 7fil " IRQ 1, 629, 937 2,896,769 9, 800, 798 304,342 2,135,044 2, 371, 207 7T2 3, 075 585 2.152 1,676 8,546 1. 808, 300 : 6, 819, 320 33, 624 133, 342 1,723,187 6, 242. 598 1,399 1,682 1,080 2,951 4,009 900, 419 1, 466, 375 2, 504, 758 4. 019, 673 7, 832, 230 20, 230 85, isO 85. 602 198, 656 445. 452 2,041 1,887 4,493 10,4.59 is, 907, 904 10, 921, 176 33,767,199 69,139,410 619 1,411 2,460 71, 389 145, 859 3, 59i,554 i e! 481^894 6,663,560 ' 12,035,629 67 25 30, 000 23, 600 600 49, 920 40,000 l,60t 20 200. 000 816 18, 095 350 166, 250 16,000 ; 25,000 1,502 17, 547 1 382.260 1, 040; 147 1, 088, 767 1,228,019 2, 190, 771 369 769 445 631 853 237, 081 617, 633 764, 965 783, 711 1, 459, 048 5,208 35, 740 623 632 863 1,693 5, 246, 800 3,249,623 7,271,791 14,726,454 284 9.R OdR 433 49;432 501 i, 79,234 14, 702 29,962 729, 202 1 372, 058 b The n amber of establishments not given for Florida in 185U. 190 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES. Number of establish- ments. Capital. AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYT^IS AND TOTAL WAGES. Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Average number. Total wages. 1 Mississippi : 1840 * 53 2 4 5 8 9 2 $6,420 38, 000 230, 000 751, 500 1,122,140 2, 053, 743 22, OOC 81 36 215 265 722 1,184 23 y, 1850 19 106 78 203 480 s 1860 $36, 264 61, 833 133, 214 290, 981 4 1870 . ... 5 1880 fi 1890 7 Louisiana: 1840 R 1850 I860 2 4 2 1, 000, 000 592, 000 195, 000 360 246 108 49, 440 60, 600 12, 672 220 123 43 in 1870 n 1880 Irl n Texas ; 1840 .... 14 1850 l^i I860 1 4 2 450, 000 496, 000 60, 000 130 291 71 15, 600 68, 211 2,466 130 184 45 Ifi 1870 . 17 1880 IR 1890(a) 1^1 Arkansas r 2 3 2 2 2 2,125 16, 600 37, 000 13, 000 75, 000 7 31 25 17 64 ''O 1850 . ^ 13 14 8 20 *>! I860 4,428 4,100 7,339 ^'^ *>? 1880 9^ O"! Kentucky : 58 8 6 5 3 5 38 33 30 28 10 20 5 20 12 16 23 17 25 316,113 239, 000 244,000 405, 000 360, 000 1,376,132 403, 240 669, 600 965, 000 970, 650 1,145,600 2, 928, 6.-7 2, 067, 225 256, 000 442, 000 695, 700 1, 790, 900 3, 135, 000 6, 364, 042 623 402 246 269 352 834 1,642 891 899 890 1,044 2,174 1.350 456 631 1,395 1,447 2,366 3,366 246 401 840 462 484 584 '>fi 181 130 77 128 284 07 I860 41,280 67, 951 63, 850 189, 039 9fi oq 1880 . - - - ... sn 91 Tennessee ; 1840 310 323 252 311 717 358 ST I860 - 139, 180 178, 156 161, 071 495, 438 ' 328, 759 S-l S"! 1880 Sfi S7 All other southern states : 1890 (a) -- "Western states: ?0 1850 245 648 481 646 1,083 '10 272, 712 379, 095 505, 403 999, 739 rlO 1880 Ohio: M 8 8 7 4 7 113, 500 297, 000 265, 000 555, 700 670, 000 1,213,217 11 1850 , 132 372 216 126 264 r|(S 161, 164 113,620 104. 500 193, 757 1f4 1880 dO 1890 ^0 ^? 1870 51 1880 1 20, 000 88 16, 800 36 5'n 1890 12 2 2 4 4 6 142. 500 43, 000 251, 000 651, 500 1, 090, 000 1, 744, 720 210 95 367 504 7211 57 5f' 88 177 119 206 341 I860 84, 888 113, 200 162. 829 fi1 1890 1, 325 332, 676 1 62 6? ^^40 1850 3 5 2 4 4,700 151, 000 240, 000 766. 405 11 2, 840 08 25, 600 2:17 1 47,885 434 ' 150,386 10 26 66 135 fifi ]880 67 1890 a Includes states bavins less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments maj' not be disclosed, distributed as follows : Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; Texas, 1. These establishments are - TEXTILES— COTTON. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES AND TERRITORIES: 1840-1890-Coutinued. V i AVERAGE NUMIJEK OF EMPLOYltS A.ND TOTAL WAGES— continued. MACHINERY. MATERIALS USED. Value of products. Females abova j „i -i i 15 years 1 Children. Spindles. Looms. Total cost. 1 Cufton consumed. Bales. Pounds. Cost. j 318 $1,744 30, 500 176, 328 234, 445 679, 093 1,833,398 18, 900 1 109 88 09 206 306 6,344 3,526 18, 568 57, 004 706 90 152 644 1.36^ 79, 800 123, 568 337, 149 871, 970 698,"86b' 580, 764 2,881,853 8. 449, 834 2 3 398 6,411 17, 366 $301, 226 793, 600 5 6 7 140 57 41 66' 24 6,'725' 13, 084 6,096 iso' 292 120 226,'606' 161, 486 72, 470 i, '995,' 760" 748, 525 644, 000 466,'66ft 251, 650 86, 776 8 9 1,358 68, 018 li I 13 52' 10 55' 16 2,700 8,878 2,648 100 235 71 64, 140 216,519 14,827 588, 000 1, 077, 118 119, 980 80, 695 374, 598 21, 6U0 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 246 11, 280 90 18 11 3 17 8,975 11,600 13, 780 33, 306 170 16, 637 23, 000 22,562 60,000 187, 500 66,400 340, 000 6 27 1,125 2,015 28 680 25, 000 12, 358 329, 380 273, 439 315, 270 498, 960 418, 286 1, 000, 668 22i 116 71 91 372 180, 907 214, 755 375, 048 263, 818 643, 949 3,760 8,192 7,734 9,022 42, 942 16, 813 76 72 73 677 1, 826, 000 1,584,625 1, 882, 234 5, 751, 305 121 133 178 4.050 11,980 188,856 1 554, 206 { 581 463 502 1,000 784 297, 500 384, 548 696, 789 663, 761 1,765,162 932, 896 6,411 510, 624 32 698, 122 1 33 941, 642 1 34 874,717 1 35 2,507,719 1 30 1,348,637 37 274,778 38 581,800 ! 39 1, 326, 837 , 40 2, 560, 735 j 41 2, 981, 196 42 4, 691, 084 I 43 29, 850 27, 923 35. 736 97, 524 66, 980 18,739 243 313 818 2,043 1,726 4, 072, 710 2, 872, 582 4, 944, 279 15, 779, 360 8, 828, 18S 175 231 457 214 10, 436 33, 114 18, 131 608, 308 1, 554,*851 850, 156 351, 726 731,965 1, 707, 850 1, 725, 418 3, 003, 385 7,105 747 36, 734 60, 191 88, 136 164, 226 i)95 1,098 1,842 3,410 6,103,444 7, 393, 818 15, 119, 916 24, 232, 128 516 450 605 431 "1,215 1 1.841 29, 71)8 47, 032 1, 627, 357 2, 227, 922 13, 764 269 468 237, 060 374, 100 493, 704 286,092 903,446 ' 4 270 394 70fl 'In 19, 664 23, 240 13, 328 16, 560 640 208 42 40 3, 192, 500 2, 226, 400 2, 606, 182 5, 840, 078 723, 500 46 -147 ; 99 321 I 37 313 7 47 5,323 11, 023 268, 198 383,566 637, 000 1,468,204 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 i " ■ ■ 1 "i 38 14 5, 100 : 131 41,000 600 300, 000 36,000 i 70,000 4,985 135, 400 44, 200 344, 350 778, 047 1,155,029 1, 350, 425 i 28, 220 229, 925 542. 875 675 57 190 ii, OM 17, 300 33, 396 74, 604 375 448 1, 813, 944 2, 070, 318 6. 364, 887 8, 240. 434 5fi 179 206 ' 391 124 749 235 51 770 ' '• 651, 434 ' 1, 049 919. 566 1 ii, 558 16,306 6679, 9ii 798, 178 j 60 61 02 1 ' 1 1 63 1 11,930 177.525 95 000 18 987 31 41 1,856 4,860 21,800 k; 89 82 -81 38 ■2i 142,583 465 i 337,773 ; 2,261 6,405 1, 099, 130 iio, 909 ' 3,267,188 312,621 219, 861 60 563, 988 67 h Owing to LTroriu the published statistics for li?SO the cost of cotton in Indiana is shown to be in excess of the total cost of all materials used. 192 MANUFACTURINa INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES AND TEERITOHIES, Numher of establish- ments. Capital. AVERAGE NUMBEK OF EMPLOYjSS. AND TOTAL WAGES. Aggregates. Males above 16 years. Average number. Total wages. 1 Missouri : 1840 ■2 1850 2 2 3 3 $102, 000 169, 000 489, 200 890, 000 155 170 361 815 75 85 1A7 3 1860 $30, 600 120 ^00 4 1870 ■5 1880 H 1890(a) -- 7 Wisconsin : 1840 8 1850 n 1860 10 1870 11 1880 1 4 200, OOO 892, 5U9 271 501 H7 9nQ ( fifi 12 1890 142,470 1 209 13 Minnesota: 1840 14 1850 '1 1 ^f< 1860 1 ifi 1870 i| 17 1880 1 5,000 22 6,400 , 4 18 1890 19 Iowa: 1840 |i 20 21 1860 ■22 1870 1 1,500 6 275 3 23 1880 ?4 1890 (a) j; 25 Utah: 1840 -20 1850 •97 1 3 1 6,000 42, 000 20, 000 1^ 3,420 ; 4 28 1870 29 1880 30 1890 1 31 All other western states: 1890 (a) .. . 4 747, 191 4Q1 180, 450 134 a Includes states baviug leas than :! establishments, in order that the operations of individual establisbments may not be disclosed. ! 8,784 21, 588 '>-^ All other southern states Western states 112 40 25 40, 504 8. 152 16. 320 8,000 5, 632 13.60 15.82 16. 32 ^fi 16, .500 74, 601 21, 800 32. .592 18. 070 8.40S 68.281 13. 800 26. 960 8.00 16.00 8.00 19.00 7.88 15.46 19.25 20.11 7.73 14.66 17. 20 20.37 40 1,64'! 465 87.1 380 40 97 24 *>R Illinois Oq SO Another western states. 2,400 1 16 ''70 1 TEXTILES— COTTON. 197 BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES: 1890-Continup,d. MACHINERY— coiitinned. MATERIALS USED. Looms— (Continued . Total cost. Cotton. 1 On plain olotlis 32 to 36 inches wide. On plain clothsmore than 36 inches wide. On twills, including sateens. On fancy- weaves. On hags and other special fabrics. Egyptian other foreign, and sea island. Other domestic. Bales. Pounds. Cost. Bales. Pounds. Cost. 55, 356 71,591 53, 726 23, 233 5, 450 $154, 912, 979 30,21,'; 14,4.52,866 ,$3, 054, 774 2,231,385 1, 103, 492, 910 $114, 337, 802 1 35, 063 62, 508 46, 346 18, 900 1,762 101,101,446 20, 321 9, 899, 494 2, 065, 270 1, 405, 637 704, 792, 220 74, 683, 860 2. 2.969 6,232 6,^61 3,840 4,961 9,770 2,469 690 486 350 8,446,736 12, 962, 939 542, 065 56,580.283 14, 347, 672 8, 215, 751 23, 044, 093 132, 504 214, 034 8,954 765, 773 186, 558 97, 814 251, 260 65,717,252 107,319,124 4, 647, 889 383, 539, 221 94, 555, 788 49,012,946 123, 630, 916 7, 053, 168 11, 203^742 498, 348 40, 206, 887 10,446,155 5,275,560 12,917,244 S. 4 5 21, 680 3,129 1,053 3,628 26, 024 18, 700 7,083 5,708 18, 895 9,481 3,239 4,930 10, 659 1,828 3,254 2,358 345 303 276 2,653 6,747 6,733 6,841 9,894 3, 228, 105 3, 426, 367 3, 245, 022 4, 553, 372 663, 420 700, 925 700, 925 989,504 6- 7 8. 9' 1,396 193 1,546 3,395 393 1.350 206 364 2,875 1,112 959 2,027 175 861 1,130 326 458 1,815 5, 564, 251 3, 028. 933 10, 485, 247 587, 646 3,378,016 27, 764, 055, 653 9,241 483, 368 4,070,004 78,560 910, 944 78,171 16, 482 92, 705 8,876 55, 026 526, 856 39, 038, 689 8, 231, 147 44, 629, 588 4, 465, 825 27,265,667 250, 837, 646 4,192,105 90S, 524 4,371,693 475, 490 2,972,432 24, 508, 776 lo- ll 19- 1? 493 13, 956 832 2,442 192 1,975 54 906 14 15 1,380 806 3,826 3,915 684 700 448 1,525 672 2,709 126 339 1,001 905 164 40 236 73 898 • 717 576 4 1, 199, 578 6, 239, 902 6, 819, 320 7,832,230 , 1, 459, 048' 871,970 643, 949 1,765,162 932, 896 3, 003, 385 22, 731 114, 371 133, 342 145, 859 29,962 17, 366 11, 980 33, 114 18, 131 47, 632 10, 616, 206 53,546,289 64, OOO, 600 69,139,410 14, 726, 454 8,449,834 5, 751, 305 15, 779, 360 8, 828, 188 24,232,128 1,080,773 5,396,974 6,242,598 6,663,560 1, 372, 058 793,600 554, 206 1, 554, 851 850, 156 2,227,922 16 107 17 18- 1,325 650 8 Ifl- 180 '1 69 62 10 ,129 258 SO 8 70 "n 300 500 95 903, 446 919, .566 337, 773 382, 833 469. 767 11, 023 16, 306 6,405 6,924 6.974 5, 840, 078 8, 240, 434 3, 267, 188 3, 470, 388 3,414,040 383,556 798, 178 312,621 359, 117 374,450 ofi 1,273 440 866 130 352 25 4 100 .- . •'K' 148 8 30- 1 1 198 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 2.— COTTON MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED STATES STATES. MATESIALS USED— continued. Flax. Hemp. Jute. Tarns not made in mill. Cotton. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 1 The United States 120, 540 $14, 600 766, 931 $41, 600 1,443,853 $58, 310 48,779,715 $10,853,536 2 12, 000 960 17, 928, 077 4, 562, 936 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 864,321 193, 255 159, 150 40, 560 11,247,478 3, 333, 127 2,289,896 26, 248, 657 2,785,544 852, 122 725, 560 5, 505, 267 12, 000 960 120,540 14, 600 766, 931 41, 600 31, 853 1,350 10 11 12 13 U 15 120, 540 14, 600 766, 931 41, 600 31, 853 1,350 2, 551, 113 1, 169, 600 21,822,153 4,730 701,061 3,855,882 440, 934 353, 204 4, 651, 840 868 68, 421 635, 808 1€ 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 ' 5,293 1,938,261 945, 482 865, 000 3, 000 821 327, 102 171, 203 117, 677 315 1 69, 793 26, 053 3,000 747, 099 13, 261 4 779 650 149, 525 1, 400, 000 56. 000 26 27 28 29 30 200, 000 5,000 731, 499 146, 300 TlliTima 15, 600 3,225 1, 200, 000 51. 000 TEXTILES— COTTON. BY GEOGRAPHICAl, DIVISIOTSfS AWD STATES: 1890— Continued. 199 MATERIALS USED— continaed. Tarns not made in mill— Continued. ■ "WooJen. Woieted. Silk. Spun silk. Linen . Pirands. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 196, 874 $131, 657 87, 257 *62, 514 32, 851 $154,336 18,583 $83, 064 17, 722 $9, 823 1 14, 837 10, 313 15, 763 7,725 17, 337 81, 109 1,522 6,346 9,500 5,140 2 3 7,837 2,000 5,000 179, 037 4,583 2,000 3,750 120, 544 14, 981 782 6,962 763 10,302 235 6,800 ]5, 614 39, 183 1,828 40, 100 73, 227 892 130 500 17, 026 4,270 576 1,500 76, 618 4,500 5,000 2,140 3.000 6 7 g 71, 494 54, 789 8,222 4,683 9 96 38 14, 494 10, 918 1,583 7,237 2,510 8,550 69 27 10 11 12 13 14 178, 941 120, 508 57, 000 43, 871 13, 931 65, 990 14, 516 68,068 8,153 4,656 1 3,000 800 1 35 100 - 16 3,000 800 17 18 35 100 <>() 1 1 Ot> t^ V'l •>'^ **fi •>1 '»fi "t 30 li 1 200 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 2.— COTTON MANUFACTURE FOE THE UNITED STATES, STATES. MATERIALS USED— Continued. Tarns not made in mill— Continued. "Waste. Oil. Jute. Otber yarn. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Gallon.s. Cost. $430, 3J3 1 The United States . New England states. 99, 938 $8,970 224, 729 $59, 312 102, 567, 306 $4, 749, 867 1.972,491 2 33, 363 2,383 71, 855, 604 3,359,429 1, 417, 740 301, 432 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 4, 459, 851 64, 460 309, 655 3,550 110, 024 169, 061 12,480 829,712 191. 065 104, 798 239, 037 26,718 28,651 1,740 162, 371 57,030 24,922 59,091 ! 2,800 563 30, 000 66, 576 235 48 2,100 6,593 61,488,846 4,804,447 1,038,000 10,049,850 2,732,648 240, 390 73, 186 618, 415 Middle states New York 224, 729 59,312 10 5,000 400 3,000 1,350 7,160,374 200, 476 2, 689, 000 444, 556 10, 549 163, 310 53, 142 62,237 88,4.53 9, 609 25. 536 13,780 ' 15, 392 21,784 , 2,559 5, 576 11 61, 575 6,193 221, 729 57, 962 13 14 15 13,983,544 436,881 Virginia 16 17 18 19 20 12, 068 84. 898 56, 038 84, 429 7,884 9, 636 10, 775 8,405 18. 550 23, 031 1,737 20, 050 13, l.W 15, 165 1, 500 2,665 2,428 1,821 3, 2511 8, 076 415, 604 7,200 12, 255, 740 26, 057 360 326, 644 22 225, 000 1, 080, 000 16. 300 67, 500 23 , All other southern states 25 6. 678, 308 335, 162 Ohio 26 5,878,308 800, 000 285,162 60, 000 1,149 9.578 1,744 740 9,820 rsis 3, 320' 531 187 3,725 'R 29 in TEXTILES— COTTON. BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES: 1890-Coutiuued. 201 MATERIALS USED — continued. starch. Cbemicals RuA (lyestuffs, Fuel. Rent of power and heat. Mill supplies. Cost All other materials. Total cost. $4, 252, 088 Coal. Wood. Other fuel. 1 Pounds. Cost. Cost. Cost. $4, 062, 958 Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. $6. 236, 309 27,448,792 $915, 644 $4, 266, 773 $137,721 $51, 409 $319, 611 $4, 871, 990' 1 20, 392, 893 708, 490 3, 278, 740 3, 113, 008 3,054,661 31, 658 26, 689 182, 565 3,475,182 364, 048 285, Oil 25, 900 1,735,215 585, 740 479, 23? 640, 220 5. 260, 558 2- 2,215,178 3, 398, 612 54, 560 10, 963, 003 2, 318, 964 1, 442, 676 2, 413, 935 81,034 123.302 1,453 361, 419 84,070 57, 212 84, 342 201, 962 711, 540 161, 654 305,150 10, 394 1, 876, 222 557, 948 201, 642 559,256 160, 983 298, 764 9,456 1,871,088 548, 865 165, 505 .^i47, 742 671 6,086 938 6,134 8,681 10, 148 39, 374 24, 865 3,140 93,908 13, 638 7,640 75, 198 49, 973 236, 668 1,090 3,971,687 573,147 424, 003 704, 403 3 300 4 5 1,939,579 227, 336 198, 323 457, 837 « 400 25, 989 11, 514 7 8. 9 687, 712 565, 723 777, 360 177, 272 206, 868 4, 122, 517 22,522 22, 255 28,778 4,493 6,294 109,510 11, 388 114, 665 256, 944 39, 397 15,443 507, 585 117, 026 149, 551 203, 390 20, 104 69, 186 515, 599 108, 928 149, 651 199, 974 20, 104 69, 185 401, 280 8,098 9.258 7,175 35, 195 18,670 4,900 60, 698 97, 486 234, 025 191, 987 24, 030 92. 092 710, 162 oO. 566 305, 649 193, 080 2,035 153,073 216, 362 1ft.' 11 3,416 V>: 13 U 106, 063 8,256 15- 265, 720 545, 643 807, 061 1, 643, 117 108, 467 91, 281 174, 949 92, 688 393,591 519, 447 8,342 17, 851 28,654 30, 216 3,048 2,724 7,129 3,306 8,240 13, 302 35, 879 198,585 42, 966 182, 406 6,948 18,000 15, 048 7,053 700 . 42, 611 17, 161 100, 665 111.078 140, 664 23,872 28, 184 8,704 47, 625 37, 846 64,225 16,761 44, 821 92, 695 125,431 19, 740 16, 360 7,504 42, 221 35, 747 59, 276 400 51, 669 15, 102 14,333 4,132 11, 824 1,200 6,304 2,099 2,344 1,550 2,600 64, 204 48, 623 121, 031 180, 865 189, 367 51,167 16, 835 18, 690 53, 060 31,554 46, 426 3,878 29. 337 25, 948 112, 337 50 10, 962 , 8, 183 26, 167 .600 68, 986 16 4,075 3,281 900 17 18 19 •JO '^1 99 100 ■n ?4 4,950 1,150 95. 114, 992 265, 905 40, 950 27, 600 70, 000 2,643 6,678 921 960 2,100 13, 993 17, 218 7,600 9,784 22, 176 7,877 1 9, 496 14, 892 8,234 18, 776 7,877 9.496 14. 892 1,650 3,400 500 6,420 16, 996 8,323 8,187 6,500 49, 775 5,000 'fi 97 '>8 660 1,011 3,200 ?9> 3,900 3nf 202 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 8.— COTTON MANUFACTUEE FOR THE UNITED STATES, Total value. The United States . 1 $267, 981, 724 New England states J 181, 112, 453 Maine New Hamp&bire. . - Vermont , MassachusettB Bhode Island Connecticut Middle^^ates . New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Delaware Maryland 15, 316, 909 21,958,002 914, 685 100, 202, 882 27, 310, 499 15, 409, 476 40, 664, 476 S»tttttern istates . . . ■ Virginia Nortii CaroliBa South Carolina 1 Georgia j Alahama Mississippi Kentucky ! Tennessee ! AH other southern states ; 9, 777, 295 5, 902, 615 18,431,773 1, 095, 001 5, 457, 792 41, 513, 711 "Western states. . 1, 7.12, 648 9, 563, 443 9, 800, 798 12, 035, 629 2, 190, 771 1,333,398 1, 000, 668 2, 507, 719 1, 348, 637 4,691,084 Ohio Indiana Illinois : - . Wisconsin All other western states 1,468.204 1,350,425 563, 988 620. 196 688. 271 Plain cloths for printing and converting. Square yards. Value. 811.945,763 16, 810, 752 57,581,153 13, 852, 465 610, 200. 536 76, 634, 732 36, 866, 125 119,983,537 89,881,716 19 262, 856 6, 254, 018 2, 784, 947 1, 800, 000 23, 365, 020 $43, 550, 174 512, 220 600, 000 1, 350, 000 20, 152, 800 750, 000 36, 811, 201 735, 065 2, 666, 926 531, 613 27, 370, 866 3, 588, 671 1, 918, 060 5, 621, 564 4, 369, 731 582, 671 424,969 118, 193 126, 000 1,117,409 21, 558 25, 000 54, 000 979, 351 37, 500 Brown or bleached sheet- ings or shirtings. Square yards. Value. 962, 238, 062 $55, 193, 439 634,487,634 \ 37,784,925 90, 310, 254 79, 461, 338 279, 878, 312 141,167,278 43,670,452 36, 012, 784 5,762,028 4, 553, 793 25, 906, 655 57, 642 6, 162, 427 16, 464, 019 8,482,198 2, 522, 887 2, 672, 270 1,976,092 4,035 538, 587 3, 886, 060 250, 526, 060 14, 265, 103 16, 810, 948 89, 909, 344 54, 918, 249 17, 644, 120 11. 162, 809 9, 070, 300 14,581,771 22. 163, 416 18,494,1.54 6. 454, 762 10,730,618 5. 532, 060 12,729,063 831, 531 894, 339 4, 426, 722 2, 908, 123 944, 135 610, 269 392. 995 719, 045 1, 001. 904 2, 007, 181 Brills, twills, and sateens. Square yards. 258. 208, 626 32, 673, 064 50, 750, 073 104, 490, 714 46, 882, 914 23, 405 871 18, 206, 659 2, 195, 021 4, 578, S42 8, 419, 181 3, 013, 615 57, 153, 833 5, 579, 736 651, 849 32, 432, 976 11, 608, 701 1, 128. 513 2, 072, 519 854. 663 315. 178 570, 071 267. 269 1, 992, 534 1, 687, 005 450, 973 450, 973 Value. $23, 601, 239 18, 475, 344 2, 885, 938 3, 130, 379 7, 810, 865 3, 229, 795 1, 418, 367 219, 502 310, 898 733, 063 179, 705 3, 651, 159 302, 330 62, 263 2,052,001 785, 336 66, 851 143, 424 137, 734 101, 220 31, 568 31, 568 Gringhams. Square vards. 268, 996, 715 Value $20, 686, 390 114,092,225 ! 15, 991, 962 27, 000, 000 63, 926, 394 4,666,144 2, 507, 725 56, 200, 311 6. 478, 627 45, 635, 919 3, 489, 256 1, 546, 509 98, 481, 246 56, 634, 853 8, 749, 312 24. 386, 396 1, 000, 000 2, 329, 403 5, 221, 282 160, 000 222, 933 222, 933 9. 975, 197 1,504,041 1, 700, 000 6, 141, 718 418, 789 210, 649 5, 126, 992 444,263 4, 2i8, 069 3,8, 926 105, 734 3, 028, 769 546, 849 1, 312, 413 70, 000 291, 349 308, 777 12. 000 TEXTILES— COTTON. BY ■GEOGEAPHICA'L DIVISIONS AND STATES : 1890— Continued. 203 PRODT7CTS — continued. Cotton flannels. Upholstery goods. Tine or fancy woven fabrics. Duck. L Tapestries. Curtains. Chenille. Other upholstery goods. Square ; yards. Value. Square ' yards. Tatae. Pairs. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 132, 524, 706 ] .$10, -574, 924 642, 061 $354,937 676,032 (11,225,364 666, 405 $360, 706 250,970 $129, 182 127,373,179 $12, 545, 929 55, 192, 538 $8, 664, 395 1 110,106,513 i 8.887,302 35, 000 45, 000 117, 000, 295 11, 102, 236 16, 979, 346 2, 836, 615 2 6,145,611 ' 537.434 10,025,222 3, 008, 380 1, 256, 471 352, 917 612, 461 6, 073, 924 140, 731 692, 224 23, 259, 138 1,.870,246 1 5 79, 001, 764 1, 700, 000 •e, 318,(622 160, 000 35, 000 45, 000 59, 061, 558 20, 363, 202 24,541,933 9, 968, 640 5.632,217 2,004,668 1, 805, 963 1,405,897 6, 174, 332 1, 101, 367 4, 118, 629 22, 541. 200 902. 293 4, 190, 527 g 1 1 10, 809, 242 949,761 642, 061 354, 987 675,932 1, 224, 964 666, 405 360, 706 215,970 84, 182 9 250, 000 100,000 3,500 17, 500 50, 000 449, 358 8, 917, 282 20, 000 31, 019 1,243,878 150, 000 1, 165, 338 34, 500 254. 917 10 11 12 13 14 15 1, 750, 173 8, 810, 063 io5, 421 J«0, 022 392, oei 254, 987 672,432 1, 207 464 666, 405 360, 706 215, 970 34. 182 ' ' 249. OOC 11,608,951 14, 318 737, 861 552, 000 404,244 110, 40" 37, 796 21, 225, 862 I 3, 901, 110 I 15,270;e58 1 1,570,917 1,172,632 7, 731, 783 460, 600 2, 051, ao8 87, 947 453, 385 32, 511 146, 664 1,421,120 122,873 14, 670 2, 263 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 164,244 13,796 240, 000 24,000 10, 309, 019 3, 379, 297 1.000 967, 799 463, 342 85 1 1 192,828 17,354 . ( 145. 552 1 14, 555 401, 334 i 66. 336 100 400 26 27 28 29 30 100 400 1 401, 334 1 66. 336 I 204 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 2.— COTTON MANUFACTURE FOE THE UNITED STATES, The United States. INew England states - Maine New Hampshire . Vermont Marsachnsetts- - - Ehnde Island Oonnecticnt Middle states . New York ETew Jersey... Pennsylvania. Delaware Maryland Southern states. Virginia North Carolina . South Carolina.. Georgia Alabama Mississippi Kentucky Tennessee . All other southern states . "Western states^. Ohio Indiana Illinois Wisconsin All other western states. 167.121,426 130.778,136 Ticks, denims, and stripes. Square yards. $16,987,546 7,i)81,001 44,251,519 61,192,423 900,000 16,853,192 19,468,275 16,309,604 2,669,600 489,071 16,875,016 5,069,000 879,990 28,987 7,869,707 2,760,690 266,742 Value. 13,516,387 1,129,811 4,613,278 6,118,390 60,000 1,594,908 2,267,953 1,956,998- 239,997 60,958 1,213,206 351,796 87,284 2.029 582,608 173,982 15,50'; PRODUCTS— continued. 166.397,003 Yarns. $33,247,596 62,779,938 1,718,659 2,347,271 1,607,608 39,770,635 12,569,683 4,766,182 31,632,884 7,289,995 379,949 21,412,876 1,917,646 532,418 67,752,241 25,483,803 15,306,666 16,842,028 2,062,281 1,583,623 1,636,776 4,683,815 153,250 4,331,940 1,425,000 1,906,940 950,000 Value. 16,380,453 321,024 453,826 369,812 9,858,787 2,963,458 1,423,546 5,690,441 1,468,639 81,283 3,683,790 378,894 86,835 11,311,733 4.299,020 2,470,535 2,802,766 332,560 273,496 360,841 757,995 24,520 855,969 309,260 373,719 169,000 Twine." Pounds. 2,971,413 314,711 1,596,812 253,814 807,076 2,778,867 691,786 7,600 2,079,482 1,787,250 999,480 66,218 174,618 186,723 137,055 223,161 996,200 50,000 31,000 915,200 $1,364,300 532,632 69,836 265,091 64,233 153,473 385,076 Batting or wadding. 96,000 2,280 287,796 285,649 154,777 13,557 26,352 30,156 18,649 42,158 160,943 10,000 5,271 145,672 Pounds. 20,470,556 9,631,309 306,620 60,000 1,500 4,849,500 4,173,689 250,000 1,516,694 1,070,713 147,212 2,383,961 1,476 41,986 100 717,250 77,350 115,475 1,430,326 6,938,592 4,955,000 901,350 557,242. 225,000 300,000 $2,094,232 921.331 26,769 4,000 135 408,003 462,424 20,000 166,985 115,131 17,725 34,129 202,855 147 3,556 62 51,106 5,816 10,725 131,243 803,261 590,000 83.001 69,810 29,250 31,200 Waste. Pounds. 141,109,597 96,882,997 3,741,265 10,927,461 350,000 68,327,318 8,794,229 4,742,724 17,345.471 9,124,336 2,312,995 3,307,740 100,400 2,500,000 20,796,367 185,000 2.008,873 3,161,108 13,291,557 460,344 321.119 87,500 930,886 350,000 Value. $5,679,701 3,754,271 145,368 307,272 13,125 2,713,722 377,317 197,467 939,814 502.624 110,720 247,460 4,010 75,000 65ii,142 7,400 64,817 - 117,144 390,420 18,313 8,469 3,500 32,964 13,125 6,084,782 329,474 5,330,000 354,851 274,911 125,000 307,954 7,474 10,296 3,750 a Includes the value of "sewing cotton". This item is not shown separately in order to avoid disclosing the operations of individual establishments. 13.868,309 pounds of sewing cotton were manufactured in the United States during the census year 1890, valued at $11,637,600. Of this amount 9,464,240 pounds, valued at $7,860,189, were manufactured in the New England states; 3,729,722 pounds, valued at $3,585,476, in the middle states; and 684,347 pounds, valued at $191,835, in the southern states. TEXTILES— COTTON. 205 BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS AND STATES: 1890— Continued. PEODCCTS— continued. | 1 Weight of piece goods produced. Weight of yarn spun and purchased. Weight of! pj'Oilucts other than piece goods and yarn. Number of printing ma- chines. FEINTING, DYEING. AND BLEACHING SLOTH AND YAHN IX COTTON MILLS. Hope. All other products. («) Cloth printed. Addi- tional gross value given by printing. Cloth dyed. Yam dyed. Pounds. 90,792,931 Addi tional gross value given by dyeing. Cloth bleached. Square yards. Yarn bleached Pounds. i Addi- tional gross value given by bleach- ing. Pounds. Value. Value. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Square yards. Square yards. 3,590,228 $479,415 $31,242,205 758,903,844 164,184,302 226,919,071 74 142,690,083 $3,217,062 40,338,722 8,494,683 $3,717,532 65,540,307 1,671,434 $531,618 1 75,000 11,250 21,078,309 812,394 1,613,141 519,013,355 59,227,770 146,622.828 8,601,052 11,271,879 351,500 97,797,086 20,144,123 8,457.188 34,717,608 66 142,590,083 3.217,062 63,193,072 2,502,999 55,207,889 602,286 423,908 2 53,204,318 88,820,137 2,144,883 276.447,550 62,796,766 35,699,701 85,279,619 1,758,935 2,347,271 1,607,508 35, 96.. 705 12,613,169 4,936,182 32,387,884 J 1,912,009 24,284,721 4,877 339,985 2,900,743 8,886,429 14,908,951 312,450 747,839 26,340,921 5,300,000 190,797 30,000 3 4 S 9,913,215 5.508,946 3,230,613 7,762,831 44 3 1 . •) 5 114,819,877 1,948,476 125,000 2,692,950 178,000 1.250 1,304,064 2,189,876 2,100,000 30,057,104 29,486,218 3,740,931 6,171,543 8,365,480 976,832 250,016 216,362 605,756 22,960,968 168,888 8,623 30,600 34,582 fi 362,286 240,000 999,948 7 75,000 120,82^ 11,250 17,358 600,000 8 9 858,676 3,906.788 2,653,469 4.981 339,022 2,054,157 25,698,119 ' 6,308,690 31,142,757 1,910,592 20,219,461 144,177,852 7,389,995 379,949 22,167,876 1,917,646 532,418 68,266,708 13,376,202 6,086.081 10,439,621 100,400 4,715,304 29,192,081 225,732 4,363,605 2,481,426 15,465,209 1,165,416 398,469 1,225.629 3,480,863 386,732 16,386,554 6,255,000 19,762,848 379,473 1,778,371 6,238,410 738,004 231,222 17,092,439 13,680 276,419 262,9a 38,552 19,161 574,479 10 479,948 520,000 21.582 13,000 11 1'' 3,489,256 550,000 1,786,936 V, 120,822 2,894,406 17,358 375.807 ...-' 14 3 10,032,418 69,200 70,128 15 7,066 436,956 85,388 973,816 36,197 500 136,194 199,598 178.442 346,908 7,719,379 20,670,453 39,883,826 42,157,349 9,636,974 5,383,336 2,611,339 7, 626, .528 8,488,668 10,433,018 1,307,350 5,951,730 1,487,150 6,970,922 450,000 32,684 208,198 67,760 220,482 18,000 16 279,746 37,218 25,483,797 15,306,137 17,357,029 2,062.281 1,583;623 1,636.776 4,683,815 153,250 4,301,940 1,786,935 17 2,438,468 7,593,950 18,288 51,840 18 598.353 505,314 84,875 55,235 3 69,200 It 90 ?1 660,104 838,802 22,087 500,000 87,764 107,844 2,871 75,000 1,436,820 363,467 25,000 1,241,940 17,692 18.173 1,500 34,298 99 91 'I 300,000 3,000 9") 261,'000 1,425,000 1,876.940 950. 000 11,235,000 1,257,201 607,242 546,911 2 740.200 96 4,772,247 1,424,131 2,082,606 1,554,034 891,940 200,000 22,298 6,000 9K 4,908 81.000 1 90 500,000 75,000 .50.000 150.000 6. bob 300,000 206 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table S.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES IN COTTOW STATES. 1 Xamber of establish- ments. AVEKAQE NUMBEB OP EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVEEAaE WEEKLY EAKNINGS. (O) Aggregates. OfScers or firm members actively engaged, in the imlustry or in supervision. Average number. Total wages. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years.. i^" umber Average number ■ of weeks employed Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. . Total . wages. 1 905 221,585 $69, 489, 272 1,351 48 $34. 93 $2,286,46] 3, 42 $15. 34 $1,950. '>, 13 65 7 53 4 6 5 23 15 187 9 27 17 42 91 7 158 94 34 20 6 9 4 9 2,137 13, 411 987 10, 630 454 1,325 834 13, 992 4,313 76,213 1,184 19, 533 5,683 8,401 8,742 684 12, 960 24, 832 8,192 2,174 737 2,019 501 1,847 447, 173 4, 524, 483 324, 328 2, 366, 085 150, 386 332, 676 189, 039 4, 372, 473 1, 134, 445 26, 230, 667 290.981 6,429,084 2, 064, 282 2, 663, 730 1, 646, 196 193, 757 4, 687, 088 8, 131, 142 1, 646, 574 495,438 220, 742 406, 824 142, 470 509, 209 2- 9i i 9i 1( 1-i 1! 4i 2< 28 1 3 2 4 13 1 18 12 6 3 1 2 1 46 49 50 47 60 t 49 50 49 1 46 1 49 J 48 1 50 ) 49 i 49 > 48 1 49 J 48 i 49 1 48 3 49 50 1 48 3 50 i 46 25.18 36.26 25.75 27.31 24.10 29.38 22.37 60.29 52.85 62.79 24.61 44.93 39.79 35.10 18.59 21.97 24.22 31.61 34.14 21.78 26.55 26.96 21.33 33.43 31, 525 173, 586 10, 300- 122, 396 12, Q60 20, 324 13, 420 123, 586 58, 800 736, 818 19, 100 75, 824 38, 840 83, 700 121, 730 18,400 210, 223 196, 779 105, 970 38, 185 14, 604 27,181 6,400 27, 720> s \ fS fi Illinois 7 s q 10 11 1 44 17.14 750 i'^ IS n i Ti 16 17 . 'jn 91 2 42 14,40 1,200 99 *^? 9,1 ''5 1 STATES. AVEKAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYES IN BACH CLASS AND AVEKAGE WEEKLY EAKNINGS— Continued. Operatives and skilled— Continued. Unskilled. Children. Males above 16 years. Ji'emales above 15 years. Number. Average number of -weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages., Number. Average number of weeks employed, i ?fi 22, 433 49 $2.65 5,105 49 $7.69 $1, 934, 546 88 50 V 473 1,045 217 2,287 38 235 178 705 988 3,953 237 841 398 1,025 2,038 7 1,393 3,138 2, 103 319 87 416 53 309 49 49 50 48 50 50 50 50 48 50 48 49 50 50 49 50 48 50 49 49 50 46 50 49 1.78 3.29 2.65 1.96 2.47 2.27 1.89 2.88 2.40 3.35 1.67 3.03 2,70 3.08 1.84 1.63 2.80 3.12 1.93 2,30 2.79 2.11 1.61 2.61 41, 496 168, 520 28, 703 213, 175 4,696 26, 544 16, 857 101,592 107, 442 655,504 19, 127 124, 997 53, 819 157,466 184, 801 572 188, 933 486, 951 199,991 35, 742 12, 133 40,719 4,264 39. !>3B 78 322 21 200 6 9 5 303 151 1,759 38 498 86 150 219 8 164 734 214 71 17 17 7 28 49 50 50 47 60 50 50 49 47 49 47 58 48 50 49 49 49 60 49 49 50 49 50 48 4.77 7.92 9.28 6.09 9.00 7.21 5.40 7.98 7.85 8.21 7.09 8.80 10.68 7.21 4.71 11.82 8.01 7.61 5.00 6.10 7.11 6.30 9.19 8.91 18,290 126, 756 9,748 67, 733 2,700 3,245 1,350 118,901 55, 792 713, 205 12, 725 218, 318 44, 342 53, 968 50, 679 4,628 64, 739 276,813 52, 735 21, 401 6,041 6,225 3, 215 11. 997 V8 9q ^n al Illinois ;^^ 8;{ Keiitnc;k y Maine I 'I'l 15 3f> -Ui 29 60 nn SR 5 6 10 2 50 60 50 50 H9 '1(1 'll ^9 Ohio 'IS 3 50 11 1 ^15 1 17 60 50 -tfi 'I? '18 -IQ 50 1 a The average weekly earnings per employe are computed from individual reports. The average number of employiSs reported by each GHtablishraent is multiplied by the number of weeks embraced by the term of oporatioa; the result ih the number of weeks required for one employe to perform the labor. Aggregating such results of individual reports the number of weeks required for one employ6 to perform the labor is obtained. This number used as a divisor for tlie total wages., produces the true average weekly earnings. TEXTILES— COTTON. MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. 207 AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE ■«!EEKLT EARNINGS— continued. Clerks. Operatives and skilled. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Average Nam- Dumber ber. of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employ^. Total wages. Num. ber. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. Num- ber. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages 9 Num. ber. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. 1,276 1 49 $18. 19 $1,140,901 79 50 $9.04 $35, 422 80, 735 49 $7.75 $30, 761, 24 95, 733 49 $5.63 $26,019,812 1 21 88 8 116 13 2 4 38 32 345 14 112 24 37 91 12 107 126 52 11 2 8 5 8 50 ! 11. 85 50 1 24.79 50 14. 21 12, 340 . 109, 010 5,682 74, 189 13, 750 2,010 5,046 36. 364 19, 749 357, 097 7,884 108. 998 28, 163 32, 909 48. 234 13,144 87, 106 118. 776 28,370 11, 000 1,000 6,650 4,900 9,840 1 5 50 50 8.00 9.36 400 2,341 630 6,063 239 3,345 106 316 263 4,710 1,080 30,413 368 7,379 1,703 2,973 2,362 227 4,560 9 431 2. 587 534 303 516 191 438 49 49 50 47 50 50 50 48 48 50 48 60 48 50 49 49 47 50 49 49 60 47 50 49 5.31 7.68 10.41 5.75 8.14 7.69 6.89 7.52 7.46 8.05 7.09 7.56 10.44 7.62 5.26 9.30 9.71 7.99 5.17 6.31 7.53 6.29 6 54 9.76 164, 103 2, 289, 872 124, 414 907, 724 43, 137 120, 483 77.516 1, 714, 820 387, 820 12, 154, 162 126, 528 2,775,744 846, 715 1, 129, 685 607, 637 103, 895 2,094,216 3, 737, 253 661, 706 165, 661 114.030 153, 236 62, 460 208, 432 793 5,223 484 3,458 280 616 372 6,580 1.968 34, 379 265 10, 079 2,948 3,646 3,272 312 5,521 9,335 2,986 754 304 908 239 1,011 49 49 50 47 50 50 50 48 48 50 49 50 48 50 49 48 48 49 49 49 60 47 50 50 4.19 5.69 6.91 4.56 5.25 4.39 4.02 5.68 5.12 5.89 4.66 5.83 6.25 5.28 3.21 3.53 6.42 5.70 3.90 3.24 4.60 3.54 5.12 4.05 162, 401 1,453,728 143, 046 745, 088 73,453 135, 170 74, 850 1. 808, 700 483, 721 10, 024, 634 60, 724 2, 919. 999 892, 363 960. 079 513, 130 52, 518 1,714,418 2, 631, 457 567, 939 118, 742 68,384 150, 677 61, 231 203. 360 2 3 4 48 50 46 50 49 47 50 47 50 50 50 49 49 48 50 49 48 50 47 50 13.36 21.15 21.93 25.23 19.12 13.06 20.90 11.97 19.52 23.47 17.96 10.90 22.87 16.87 18.95 11.10 20. 83 16.00 15.15 19 m 4 1 48 50 12.72 12.00 2.464 600 b 6 7 8 9 1 39 50 50 7.20 9.04 360 17, 637 10 11 12 4 7 50 49 10.29 7.60 2,058 2,620 13 14 15 1 1 5 2 5 1 50 46 49 50 47 50 6.00 13.09 7.09 8.20 7.33 9.60 300 600 1,742 820 1,740 480 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 50 ' 24.60 2 50 12. 60 1,260 25 AVERAGE NUMBER OF E WEEKLY UPLOYjiS IN EAKNINGS- EACH C -contin LASS AND AVERAGE ued. PIECEWORKEE 5— AVERAGE NUMBER EMPLOYED AND TOTAL WAGES. B^eniales 1 years— C 0n skilled -Co tinned above 15 ontinued. Chil dren. Summary. Mi N lea above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Cbildren. Average weekly earnings per employe. Total wages. Number. Av nui of T emp srage nber reeks oyed. Average weekly earnings per employs. Total wages. Number. Wages. timber. Wages. Number. Wages. Number. Wages. $4. 37 $19, 167 67 50 $2.16 $7, 234 14, 715 $4, 369, 247 2,997 $1, 101, 722 10, 786 $3, 126, 107 932 $141, 418 26 1 114 567 10 1,024 16, 618 200, 670 2,436 243, 316 27 94 6 304 5,806 34, 309 1,377 108, 204 59 473 4 547 9,283 166, 361 1,058 116,614 28 1,529 27 ■'R ?,686 16.680 1, 199, 736 24,658 76, 708 116, 188 98, 941 68,176 153 38, 985 34 36 s.'ot' 8,447 1 50 3.00 150 137 69 53 12 11 33 16, 926 7,660 13,021 -1, 812 1,194 2,247 36 37 5.'87 1 3.Q4 4.27 2.08 1,467 1,182 2,136 208 3K 3 50 1.89 284 39 40 41 42 2.21 332 5 1 16 35 50 50 50 50 3.78 3.12 1.85 1.86 944 156 1,479 3,255 1,020 1,937 164 394 13 133 324, 435 682, 137 36, 412 97,137 3,950 24,136 267 342 48 65 5 30 - 121,614 126, 718 13, 560 16, 210 2.050 8,220 734 1,562 83 226 5 1 *^ 199, 802 548, 258 19, 040 63, 101 1,750 8,428 19 43 33 103 3 60 3,019 7,161 3,812 17, 826 150 7,488 43 44 4.64 3.10 232 2,635 4b 46 47 48 49 ..... 50 4.32 216 34 7,145 2 1 .200 » 6.845 2 100 50 h Tnfliidpa .jtitps bavin" less tban 3 establisbmeuts, in order thattbe operations of individual establishmeiito may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Ark1insa3,2; California,!; Iowa,2; Loui8iana,2; ifissouri,!; Tei;as„l. ^08 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 4.— AVEKAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYfiS AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY RATES OF PAY IN COTTON MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. Number of establish- ments. WEEKLY KATES OF WAOES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOTf..o AT EACh RATE, INCLODINd OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK, (a) STATES. Aggr egates. Males above 16 years. Average number. Total wages. $69, 489, 272 Total number. Under $5. $5 and over but under $6. $6 and over but under $7. $7 and over but under $8. $8 and over but under $9. $9 and over but under $10. $10 and over but under $12. The United States 905 221, 585 88, 467 15, 164 9,924 15,491 10,485 9,120 8,712 8,409 13 65 7 53 4 6 5 23 15 187 9 27 17 42 91 7 158 94 34 20 6 9 4 9 2,137 13, 411 987 10, 530 454 1,325 834 13, 992 4,313 76,213 1,184 19, 533 5,683 8,401 8,742 584 12, 960 24,832 8,192 2,174 737 2,019 501 1,847 447, 173 4,524,483 324, 328 2,366,085 150, 386 332, 676 189, 039 4,372,473 1, 134, 445 26,230,667 290, 981 6, 429, 084 2, 054, 283 2, 563, 730 1, 646, 196 193, 757 4, 687, 088 8, 131, 142 1, 646, 574 495, 438 220, 742 406,824 142, 470 509, 209 756 6,571 276 3,757 135 341 284 5,093 1,287 32, 801 436 8,023 1,833 3,208 2,807 264 5,013 10, 419 2,917 652 333 562 209 490 377 9U6 14 1.653 24 19 120 704 231 4,252 93 951 163 691 1,333 27 396 1,132 1,536 248 52 151 56 35 108 673 14 640 7 95 69 555 225 3,061 53 1,246 65 55', 439 9 331 876 509 55 47 176 53 66 76 1,401 23 641 6 78 11 1.340 100 5,779 80 1,385 289 460 446 17 693 1,937 360 109 70 81 28 81 58 973 15 .189 4 24 10 578 141 4,354 50 1,108 111 420 145 24 528 1,452 136 45 50 44 6 20 38 678 15 97 12 35 7 375 122 3,790 28 750 354 158 71 41 447 1,877 59 26 25 18 13 86 42 622 59 126 18 17 42 516 129 3,938 40 876 121 224 74 20 598 998 76 92 ■ 22 21 11 30 11 541 40 99 29 13 4 524 161 3,711 25 876 185 New York , . . . 291 59 60 637 1,000 64 8 26 21 13 11 The United States Alshsms, 'Connecticut Delaware ■Georgia Illinois Indiana Kentucky Maine Maryland Massachusetts 'Mississippi 'Sevr Hampshire Uew Jersey New York North Carolina •Ohio Pennsylvania Kbode Island .South Carolina Tennessee Vermont Virginia Wisconsin All other states WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK —continued. Males above 16 years — Continued. $12 and over but under $15. 11 369 65 76 1 26 5 253 85 2,204 31 459 214 207 70 9 626 513 53 17 17 13 14 89 $15 and over but under $20. 3,027 $20 and over but under $25. 1,291 5 205 16 102 13 109 57 843 22 171 254 121 82 32 489 362 43 18 13 12 11 113 42 40 52 142 j 151 37 I 23 I lil ■^ i- 20 I i $25 and over. 17 119 9 68 13 11 6 57 20 530 35 46 36 16 126 121 44 11 23 Females above 15 years. Total number. 95,903 794 5,228 484 3,462 281 616 372 6,595 1,969 34,448 265 10, 088 2,961 3,656 3,275 3i3 5,529 9,337 2,992 774 304 908 239 1,013 Under $5. $5 and over but under $6. $6 and over but under $7. 32,090 I 20,823 532 1.313 106 2,059 431 292 1,666 1,006 9,413 108 2,197 578 1,156 2,840 281 1,348 2,170 2,136 658 171 853 69 633 203 42 1,262 1,480 116 135 599 434 149 39 126 48 50 4 1,693 1,929 362 376 6,987 8,427 102 53 2,979 2,468 610 718 947 1,178 294 111 27 1,103 1,153 2,030 2,849 692 136 70 36 73 31 40 15 81 43 228 27 $7 and over but under $8. 11,324 11 750 58 752 116 4,643 3 1,134 831 281 18 ,399 18 7 $8 and over but under $9. 299 34 48 16 3 7 244 103 2, 865 642 181 62 3 401 615 6 $9 and over but under $10. 103 35 C 5 2 185 G 1,512 368 34 20 335 168 4 1 1 21 a In comparing the table of weekly rates and the average number of employfes at each rate with the average weekly earnings presented in Table 3, it must be remembered that it is not practicable to obtain true average weekly earnings from the table of weekly rates, because the term of employment varies for eraployfis -employed at the respective rates. b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual ostiblishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are ■flistrihnted as follows ; Arkansas, 2, California, 1; Iowa, 2: Louisiana, 2; Missouri, 1; Texas, 1. TEXTILES— COTTON. 209 Table 4 — AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYE.S AT THE DIFFERENT WEEKLY RATES OF PAY IN COTTON MANUFACTURE FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890— Continue.l. WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NUMBER OF EMPLOTll:S AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— continued. j PIECEWORKERS. STATES. Females above lo j'ears— Continued. Cbildrcn. Average number. 14,715 $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. $15 and over but under $20. 34 $20 and over but under $25. XotaJ number. Under $,'). - $5 aud over but under $6. $6 and over but under $7. .$7 and over but under $8. 3 Total wages. The United States 1,152 282 24 22, 500 21, 798 684 15 $4,369,247 Alabama 473 1,045 217 2.287 38 235 178 710 938 3,954 237 811 401 1,025 2,038 7 1,398 3,139 2,119 354 87 416 53 310 473 1,032 216 2, 234 38 235 178 710 938 3,655 237 822 394 876 2,008 7 1,324 . 3,093 2,108 354 87 416 63 310 114 567 10 1,024 16, 618 200, 670 Connecticut 14 5 2\ ! 12 1 50 1 2,435 ;t •) 3 243, 316 Illinois ....: 1 Indiana 133 24, 900 4" :;::::;;;;;; 4 Maine 121 ; 5 1,694 119 5,010 246 581 488 512 622 466, 232 20, 761 Maryland 528 .'">3 11 4 293 6 1, 662, 263 1 44, 893 New Hampshire 280 4 9 20 ] 3 19 7 149 25 201, 679 4 145, 954 New York 144, 697 North Carolioa 5 ' 119,477 Ohio 1 167 •>1 93 85 10 20 74 44 10 1,020 1, 937 164 394 13 133 324, 435 682, 137 36 412 1 \ 2 97, 137 4 ■ ! 3,950 Virginia 24,136 : 10 1 !...;_::__: 34 7,145 2457- -14 SILK MANUFAOTTJRE. BY BYRON HOSE. The very full and comprehensive report prepared by the late William C. Wyckoff, special agent iu charge of the inquiry into the manufacture of silk and silk goods at the Tenth Census, which report covered the entire period from the earliest introduction of silk on the American continent to the decennial period of 1880, precludes the necessity in this report for any extended reference to the rise and progress of silk manufacture in the United States beyond such as may be necessary for purposes of comparison. PEODUCTION. The growth of the silk industry during the past decade, both in quantity and value of production, may justly be considered as one of leading interest. The value of finished products of silk manufacture in 1890 was $69,154,599, an increase in value over that of 1880 of $34,634,876, or 100.33 per cent. Table 1 exhibits the leading general facts regarding silk manufacture for the census years 1890 and 1880, showing by each state and for the United States the number of establishments, amount of capital, statistics of machinery, miscellaneous expenses, average numbei' of employes and their wages, cost of materials used, and A'alue of products.. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE STATEMENT FOE THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890 AND 1880. CAPITAL. !Miscella- neous ex- penses. (0 MACHINERY. Number Total. Value of land and buildings. Value of machinery, tools, and implements. Live assets. Looms. STATES. Years. of establish- ments. Hand. Power- On broad 1 0;„°^-- S°'=<1^- i goods. On broad, goods. On ' 0" °^^'"'- '■™--|'^^o''or 4.389 1 1.567" The Unitea States 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 18R0 1890 (f) 1880 (/) 1890 (!/) 1880 472 382 $51, 007. 537 19, 125, 300 $8, 904, 628 1 $14, 181, 680 3 836 600 .5. 227. .500 $29, 921, 229. 10, 061, 200 $4, 259, 623 413 1,629 1,334 1, 524 35 24 14. 860 3. UI3 — — 9 1 1 •>. 2S3 30,409 62, 000 1.617. .538 81, 874 85, 900 6, 123, 715 2, 442, 950 222, 896 27, 000 30, 500 7.400 2. 396. 588 808,850 9. 600, 284 3, 678, 225 0, 176, 918 2, 297, 775 21, 080 8,700 4,967,882 670, 900 61, 892 10, 438 ' 1 5 1 164.300 :i5 9.037,042 28 1 4.436.500 10 i 422,096 5 82, 000 4 50, 400 16, 400 1 295,789 270.426 l.oai 290- 291 746 000 1 ^17 5.50 10 R2 448 93, 000 25, 000 7, ,500 3,500 304, 800 194, 100 2. 170. 079 106. 200 30. 000 12, 400 10, 000 591, 908 303, 950 5, 039, 564 2, 290, 000 3, 612, 758 966, 000 1, 7,50 12, 000 2, 941, 679 287, 000 70, 364 ,35, 761 44i j 3,798 14 39 Massachusetts 20 22 132 106 185 3, 353, 296 1. 306, 900 16.809,927 ' 484. 390 41 62 218 1. 444 ■ 80 85 354 90 91 19 153 972 906, 1, 356, 137 9.146 2,017 1,838; 543 2.112 229 6,952.C25 ;i 984,100 11. 16.J.918 i! 1.376,242 J 606 77.5 1 1 dS3 OnO 'l 1, 123, 671 1,478,1 572 3 : 37,830 ] 15.000 6 ''4 700 i 4 000 2,662 8 8: 22 163 226 Pennsylvania 66 ■ 9.362,063 49 1 379.900 3 : 122.256 1,462,502 422,000 939, 051 60 36 2. 306 95 451 B03. Rhode Island 17, 427 , 43 , All olber states 5 534. 426 6 61 ono 119, 716 8,500 157, 110 19, 000 257, 600 33,500 15,862 169 2 - a Value of hired property is not included iu the capital reported in 1889, because it tras not included in the report of 1880. b This item was not fully reported in 1880. Items under this head were not reported in 1880. d Not separately reported in 1880. e Included in group "All other states, 1880 " /Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are- distributed as follow.s : Maine. li Michigan, 1; Missouri. 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia 1- g Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual e.stablishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are- itributed as follows; Kansas,!; Maine.l; Missouri,!; New Hampshire, 1; Rhode Island, 1 ; Vermont, 1. 211, distributed as follows; 212 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— COMPAEATIVE STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890 AND 1880— Continued. The United States . Galifornia Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts Uew Jersey !New York Ohio Pennsylvania Ehode Island All other states MACHINERY— continued. Years. Power looms — Con- tinued. Total on ribbons and other narrow goods. 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 I 1890 I 1880 I 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 5,966 2,218 319 155 M 13 U "Winding, cleaning, and doubling. 369, 036 164, 218 Spindles. Spinning and twisting. 799 200 45. 402 :i5. 353 718, 360 262, 312 2,018 160 84, 262 63, 472 88 2,341 2.050 552 1,054 471 43 26. 235 13,514 135. 160 76. 037 62, 197 27, 707 96 89, 429 9,497 930 55. 200 16,936 224, 204 134, 746 92. 772 39. 564 Braiding. 167, 403 81, 607 29 754 11, 492 221 30, 403 11,000 19, 366 33, 429 72, 035 22. 784 228, 786 15,744 2,463 I 8,418 1,910 28, 286 1,700 30, 217 6.864 40 3,000 6,776 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES. Average number. Total wages. 60, 913 31, 337 $19, 680, 318 " 9, 146, 705 214 : 151 5,081 3,428 I 805 ' 269 i 75 i 83. 566 41, 400 2. 006, 804 1, 026, 530 295, 636 72, 195 24, 233 11, 000 1, 296, 399 621, 725 7, 176, 18C 4, 177. 745 5, 584, 399 2. 690, 025 13, 685 12, 550 2,981,334 678, 120 61, 978 156, 104 16, 415 Males above 16 years. 18, 998 9,376 56 20 1.649 785 198 67 31 12 1,192 353 8.184 4.696 4.857 2,405 10 21 2,604 1.000 55 162 16 Females above 15 years. 29, 049 16, 896 L68 106 3,309 1,990 697 135 44 66 1,936 1,285 8,834 5, 360, 8.014 5,459 30 73 5, 625 1,870 109 Chil- dren. 2,866 5,566 2 25 123 653 10 57 188 899 1,493 280 ,769 395 62 41 ,293 319 30 COST OF MATERIALS USED. Haw silk and silk materials. Other textile materials. $46, 351, 200 19, 208, 683 123, 406 66, 418 5, 723, 328 3. 025, 325 155, 931 73, 820 29, 530 11, 630 2, 861. 697 1,730,870 17, 191, 845 8 664. 835 8. 671, 281 4. 333. 485 8, 335 14, 845 10. 875, 625 1.207,795 147,015 $2, 327, 684 1, 400, 480 13, 303 3.600 78, 485 12. 000 111,978 9,500 2,799 2,980 156, 120 161, 815 228, 811 83, 400 936, 248 730, 530 5.488 2,075 794, 350 894- 680 663, 207 79, 660 The United States - California. ■Connecticut . -Illinois - Maryland. COST OF MATERIALS USED — continui^l. Tea s. j Dyestulfs, .cbeuiicals, j oil, and I soap. 1890 i $717,111 $400,107 IRSn 828,314 173,283 Kent of power and heat. All other materials. Massacbusett-. Kew .Terse V . - Kew York . Ohio. Pennsvlvania. 3£faode Island . All other states. 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 18:10 ito 1890 1880 1890 1880 458 3,552 I 204. 864 115,040 : 4. 727 1,150 69, 976 64, 725 166, 650 482, 472 117, 735 109, 430 102 2,355 73. 134 41, 693 1,725 , 409 $1, 122, 914 856, 941 1,734 3,400 1,740 205 137, 347 60, 975 998 25, 350 970 48, 149 15, 775 143, 132 78, .318 63, 990 24, 167 63, 502 10, 265 6,168 480 870 33,453 33, 739 7,403 5,170 118, 665 117, 148 38, 754 42, 576 1,766 9,473 1,000 116,081 17, 330 165,992 369, 281 451, 825 i:i4, 192 160 2, 575 214, 092 167, 270 730 18, 427 1,400 Gross cost ot materials. $61, 004, 425 22, 467, 701 146, 80, 6,201, 3, 311, 314, 125, 34, 15, 3, 251, 1,990, 17,908, 9, 678, 10,174, 5. 331, 13, 19, 12, 094, 1,830, 149, 713, 254 82, 510 Silk ma- terial twice included. Cost of net materials. (a) $15, 537, 620 3, 898, 635 3,500 14,595 889, 766 296, 190 746, 175 121, 000 5, 205, 601 2, 502, 400 1, 318, 742 633, 600 7. 017. 604 404, 000 68, 242 288. 000 27, 750 $36, 466, 905 18, 569, 166 142, 906 66, 400 5. 312, 120 3, 016, 018 314, 855 125, 895 34. 305 15. 760 2, 505, 718 1, 869, 515 12, 703, 382 7, 176, 136 8, 856, 076 4. 798, 204 13,983 19, 495 5, 076, 785 1,426,985 81,521 VALUE OF PKODDCTS. G-ross value of products ,$87, 298, 454 41, 033, 046 425, 254 54, 760 271, 159, 9,788, 5, 881, 785, 244, 100, 35, 5, 557, 3, 764, 30, 760, 17, 122, 19,417, 10, 170, . 33, 53, 19, 357, 3.491, 229, 995, 114 111, 725 Silk prod- uct twice included. Value of net products. (a) , 143, 856 $69. 154, 599 6, 513, 322 34, 619, 723 6,600 28, 470 1, 665, 390 442, 926 945, 610 273, 167 5, 364, 389 4, 271, 185 1,681,481 802, 116 7, 953, 323 638, 675 94, 062 266. 312 130, 705 8, 123, 561 6,438,075 785, 845 244, 150 100, 361 35, 415 4, 611, 959 3, 491, 093 25, 405, 982 12,851,045 17, 736, 315 9, 368, 025 33, 927 53, 110 11, 404, 223 2, 853, 165 135, 000 444. 000 551, 114 56, 785 1 54, 940 a Sec c-\:plauation, page 222. TEXTILES— SILK. 213 The following summaries show the value of net production in the various classes of goods manufactured as reported at the census periods of 1880 and 1890: VALUES OF FINISHED GOODS FOR THE CENSUS YEAR 1880. Total $34,519,723 Sewing silk 776, 120 Machine twist 6, 007, 735 Floss silk 225, 025 Dress goods 4, 115, 205 Satins 1,101,875 Tie silks and scarfs 606,675 Millinery silks 891,955 Other broad goods 627, 595 Haudkercliiefs 3, 881, 590 Ribbons 6, 023, 100 Laces 437, 000 Braids and bindings 999, 685 Fringes and dress trimmings. 4, 950, 275 Cords, tassels, passementeries, and millinery trimmings 1, 866, 575 Upholstery and military trimmings 1, 392, 355 Coach laces and carriage trimmings 37, 510 Undertakers', hatters', and fur trimmings 59, 805 Mixed goods and silk values therein '. 519, 643 VALUES OF FINISHED GOODS FOR THE CENSUS YEAR 1890. Total $69, 154, 599 Machine twist and sewing silk 7, 068, 213 Fringe, knitting, embroidery, and floss silk 1, 849, 631 Dress goods, figured and plain 15, 183, 134 Tailors' linings 3, Oil, 437 Tie silks and scarfs 919, 919 Other broad goods 1,928,036 Handkerchiefs 1,913,224 • Ribbons 17,081,447 Laces 261, 750 Braids and bindings 2, 771, 382 Velvets and plushes 3, 141, 026 Upholstery goods : Curtains 471, 324 Tapestries 1, 330, 287 Other upholstery broad goods 1,910,721 Gimps and trimmings 3, 918, 209 Dress and cloak trimmings 4, 403, 757 Military trimmings 232, 600 Hosiery and knit goods : Shirts and drawers 26, 421 Hosiery .' 141,183 Mittens, gloves, etc 897, 904 Jersey cloth - 90,664 Other products 602,330 The values stated in the foregoing summaries represent the value of the product at the factory. The term ^'net production" signifies the quantity and value of finished goods after allowance has been made for materials "twice included ", which is fully explained hereafter in this report. From the foregoing summaries it will be seen that the value of net production increased from $34,519,723 in 1880 to $69,154,599 in 1890, an increase of $34,634,876, or 100.33 per cent. In considering these figures, however, the fact should be borne in mind that, although values had declined not less than 25 per cent, as estimated by- competent authorities, the amount of production in quantities shows a very marked increase. 214 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tables 2 and 3 show the quantities of silk goods produced in 1880 and 1890, but in this respect the report for the census of 1880 furnished a small basis for comparison with the more comprehensive report prepared for the census of 1890. Table 2.— QUANTITIES OF SILK PEODUCTS: 1880. STATES. SEWINGS AND.TWIST. Pounds. BROAD GOOD? AND HAND- KERCHIEFS. BrKRONS JNT, i TRIMMINGS RIBBONS AND | ^^D SMALL ^^^^^- \ GOODS. Tarda Yards. ' Pounds. The United States 821, 528 10, 856, 28'' ._ 30, 129, 951 710, 149 California 9,500 394, 98i 4,650 695 12, 220 Connecticut 2, 253, 070 8, 541, 235 Kansas 3,600 4,225 1,784 39, 789 65 300 50, 405 403, 330 2 187 ■lVrna«np.ymap>i,R 373, 816 99, 120 .573, 320 Missmiri New Hampshire , . 1,300 25, 580 88, 765 6, 975, 655 1, 427, 439 8, 794, 100 10, 302, 696 Ohio Pennsylvania 23, 110 101, 000 1, 915 000 192 824 Khode Island 1,900 251 Table 3 QUANTITIES OF SILK PRODUCTS: 1890. STATES. Number of establish ments. 472 SEWINGS AND TWIST, (a) BROAD GOODS AND HANDKERCHIEFS. (6) ANifLACES TRIMMINGS AND SMALL GOODS. (C) Pounds. 1,449,462 Y-'i- %zr Pairs. Dozens. Pieces. Pieces. Yards. | Dozens. Gross. Pairs. Pounds. The United States - 30, 171, 673 1 4, 642, 820 | 71, 049 393,902 1 25,737,211 5, 201, 128 217,944 491, .512 ; 190,984 2,000 1,140 9 3.3 10 4 20 132 185 3 66 3 5 18, 829 770, 428 64, 060 64, 942 265, 024 11, 600 331, 727 164,036 3. 276, 284 11, 260 983, 915 7. FI44 1, 105 3,750 160 18, 341 1,000 2, 747. 420 675,117 1,000 1,904 5,717 872,783 Illinois 75,000 2,000 33, 200 390, 683 44, 568 44, 168 744, 383 11, 395 45, 936 408, 577 1,698 62,000 106, 618 1 140 18, 180, 072 514, 295 13, 820 44 386,520 , 14,629,214 1,665 8,447,441 500 94, 500 ^New Yoik 4, 795, 552 726, 474 144, 173 3, 431, 093 2, 725, 934 55, 281 1,064,608 89, 875 20,749 1,167 40, 000 1 -All other states (d) 36, 613 273, 153 28, 280 a Includes 329,637 pounds of "fringe, knitting, embroidery, and floss silk'', divided as follows: California, 4,515; Connecticut, 121,177; Massachusetts, 75,658, 'New Jersey, 27,593; New York, 3,779; Pennsylvania, 81,915; "AH other states", 15,000. b Includes in "Broad goods " the following: dress goods, figured and plain; tailors' linings, tie silks and scarfs, "Other broad goods", tapestries, curtains; velvets and plushes, and " Other upholstery broad goods"- c Includes gimps and trimmings, braids and bindings, dress and cloak trimmings, military trimmings, hosiery and knit goods, and jersey cloth. (Jersey cloth as follows: United States, 75,444 yards, viz., California, 444, and New York, 75,000.) d Includes states haviag less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows; Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; Missouri, 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia, 1. DEVELOPMENT OP SILK MANUPACTUEB. In addition to what has been shown regarding the increase in both value and quantity of production during 'the past decade, a very great advance has ensued in the development of the manufacture through the production of new classes of goods, as well as the consequent increased employment of silk fabrics for many uses previously unknown. In the meantime the great improvement and increased beauty and variety of designs in our figured silk fabrics attest the rapid advance made in the domestic industry, while qualities have steadily improved in nearly every direction, notwithstanding the decline in prices. Among other noteworthy features distinguishing the past decade may he mentioned the spread of the industry through the establishment of mills at numerous points outside the TEXTILES— SILK. 215 recognized seats of the industry in 1880; the almost absolute retirement of the hand loom in weaving broad goods and ribbons, the marked decline in the price of raw siYli, and the great improvement in nearly every department of machinery and appliances. The latter feature has led to increased economy in manufacture and larger diversification of product, there being in fact scarcely any class of silk goods required by American consumers not now produced in this country and upon American looms. Last, but not least, may be mentioned the ascendency in volume of domestic silk fabrics over imported goods. The percentages of silk goods made in the United States, as compared with the whole consumption of such goods in the country at the past four censuses are as follows : PER CENT. 1860 13 1870 23 1880 38 1890 55 Bach of the features above noted is of sufficient importance to merit more extended reference, since all are factors in the history of the past decade; further allusion will be made to them elsewhere in this report. SEWING SILK AND MACHINE TWIST. Taking u^d in detail the more important lines of the manufacture, consideration may properly be first given to the oldest, that of sewing silk. Previous to 1810 this production, as well as such other manipulation of silk as then existed in the United States, was a household industry. The erection in that year at Mansfield, Connecticut, of a small 1-story frame building, 12 feet square (still standing), and the employment of a water wheel as the motive power for the single crude spinning frame which it contained, may justly be considered the inauguration of silk manufacture as a factory industry in this country. At the census of 1850 the value of sewing silk production hiul grown to $1,209,420 out of a total value of $1,809,476 for all silk goods nuuiufactured. The adaptation of silk thread or twist for use on the sewing machine, occurring in 1852, created the new classification of '■ machine twist" and gave immense impetus to this branch of silk industry. At the census of 1880 its production amounted in value to $6,783,855, sewing silk being credited with $776,120 and machine twist with $6,007,735. At the census of 1890 the returns for the two items were consolidated, the total value produced in that year being $7,068,213, an increase of $284,358, or 4.19 per cent. That this inareasfc in value of production was not larger resulted from a decided falling off in price during the past decade. The weight produced in 1880 was 791,-525 pounds {a), while in 1890 it was 1,119,825 jxainds {h), an increase of 328,300 pounds, or 41.48 per cent. The ever increasing use of the sewing machine has fully sustained this industry, so that the manufacture of machine twist is at present one of great importance. The manufacture of this class of goods, as in 1880, is more extensively carried on in the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut than elsewhere. PRINGrB, KMT'l'lNG, EMBROIDERY, AND FLOSS SILKS. Fringe, knitting, embroidery, and floss silks are produced by the manufacturers of spun silk and machine twist and sewing silks, and the product has been developed largely since the Tenth Census. The returns for 1880 showed a value in product of floss silk of $225,025, including fringe, knitting, and embroidery silks. In 1890 the value of the combined production aggregated $1,849,031, an increase of $1,024,600, or 721.97 per cent, having kept pace with the largely increased demand for this class of goods for use in art decoration and other purposes. BROAD SILKS. The generic or commercial term of " broad silks " is applied in this report to all silk woven fabrics other than handkerchiefs, ribbons, velvets and plushes, upholstery goods, and trimmings of the character designated in the classification hereinafter shown. To better illustrate the growth ofthis branch of the industry historical reference becomes necessary. Previous to 1840 little, if anything, had been accomplished therein save as a household industrv- In that year a start in a small waj^ was made at Paterson, New Jersey, but the insignificant growth of broad silk weaving in the decade following is shown by the returns for the census of 1850, which reported the value of " silk cloth " produced at $17,050. At the census of 1800 no mention whatever was made ofthis class of produ(;tion. During the war the production was greatly stimulated, owing in part to frequent deficiencies in the foreign supply and in part to the excessive cost dne to the high price of gold, which greatly checked importation. At the close of the war (in 1865) the weaving of broad silks had attained considerable importance and may be reo-arded as having then become firmly established. Hence very nearly all that has been achieved in this branch a The total quantity of sewings .and twist produced in 1880, reported at the Tenth Census, was 821,528 pounds, hut in this amount was included floss silk ,462 pounds given for sewings and twist 329,637 poundij of lilnge. knitting, embroidery, and floss silk should be deducted, leaving 1,119.825 pounds as the production of machine twist and sewing silks. 216 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. of industry has been accomplished within the past twenty-five years. The returns of the Mnth Census reported an annual production of 1,026,422 yards, the value not being given. The value of production reported at both the Tenth and Eleventh Censuses is shown herewith : ' liEOAD SILKS. Total . Dress goods Satins Tailors' linings Tie silks and scarfs. Millinery silks other broad goods - - IS80 $7, 343, 305 4, 115, 205 1, 101, 875 $21, 042, 526 606, 675 891, 955 627, 595 15, 183, 134 3,011,437 919, 919 1. 928, 036 It will thus be observed that the total value of production in this branch of silk industry in 1890 amounted to 1,042,526, an increase over 1880 of $13,699,221, or 186.55 per cent. Allusion has already been made to the great progress within the past decade in the whole industry in a more extended range of production, and nowhere does this more aptly apply than in the domain of broad silk weaving. The classification is now, in fact, almost illimitable, practically embracing everything made in other and older silk manufacturing countries, while in quality of weave, combination of colors, beauty of design, and excellence of finish the manufacturers are able to meet all requirements. In the meantime, also, values have experienced a great decline, and jji-ices to consumers are much below those prevailing at the time of the Tenth Census. HANDKERCHIEE'S. The handkerchief production stands almost singly in showing a decline in the value of goods manufactured, having decreased from $3,881,590 in 1880 to $1,913,224 in 1890, a difference of $1,968,366, or 50.71 per cent. This results from the decided change which has occurred duiing the decade, especially within the past four or five years, in the requirements of the purchasing trade, the tendency being adverse to the class of goods made on American looms, particularly figured effects, and favoring those of oriental production, of which the importation into this country, especially from Jaiian, has recently grown to large proportions. RIBBONS. The development of ribbon manufacture during the past decade has been exceedingly rapid. Its production of $17,081,447 in 1890 stands second in value to that of broad silks, while it exceeds that of dress silks by the sum of $1,898,313. In 1880 the value of ribbons manufactured was reported at $6,023,100. The increase shown by the Eleventh Census is $11,058,347, or 183.60 per cent. Previous to 1861 a few feeble and insignificant efforts were made at various jjoints toward producing this class of goods, but it was not until the commercial exigencies created by the civil war that, similarly to broad silks, ribbon production obtained as a permanent domestic industry, the first mill of real importance having been established at Williamsburg, New York, in 1863. In 1870 the Mnth Census showed a production of 3,224^264 yards, and from that date tlie progress of this branch of the industry has been marked. The remarks made concerning broad silks apply with equal force to ribbons in both diversification and excellence of product. Goods of a character and beauty the production of which ten years ago the manufacturer would have hardly ventured to predict would be attempted within that period now constitute a large portion of the regular output, while the exceedingly low prices at which they are offered to consumers has created a demand for their use for many purposes never before contemplated. LACES. The production of laces for dress and millinery purposes shows a falling off from $437,000 in 1880 to $261,750 in 1890, a decrease of $175,250, or 40.10 per cent. A considerable portion of the decrease can be attributed to the fact that under the Tenth Census lace mitts were classified as laces, while under the Eleventh Census they are included with mittens and gloves. BRAIDS AND BINDINGS. In braids and bindings the returns show a value in production of $2,771,382 in 1890, against $999,685 in 1880, an increase of $1,771,697, or 177.23 per cent. In 1880 (fiscal year) the invoice value of this class of goods imported into the port of New York amounted to $1,323,437, and in 1890 it was $1,707,154. TEXTILES— SILK. 217 VELVETS AND PLUSHES. The manufacture of velvets and plushes, with a product in 1890 valued at $3,141,026, has come into existeuce since the Tenth Census. No separate classification of the two items is made in the summary showing the value of production, but the value of the output of plnshes largely exceeds that of velvets. The velvets produced here have been mostly utilized for millinery and dress trimming purposes, while the plushes are largely employed in upholstery. So far only plain goods, made of " schappe " or spun silk with cotton backs, have been manufactured here, no production having been attempted of the high figured effects in both lines, such as are seen among the artistic creations of the Lyons weavers or of the foreign rich all-silk plain velvets. UPHOLSTERY GOODS. Under the general head of "Upholstery goods" the summary for 1890 shows the following values of goods produced composed of silk, or of which silk was the component material of chief value: curtains, $471,324; tapestries, $1,330,287, and other upholstery broad goods, $1,910,721; a total of $3,712,332. At the Tenth Census no mention was made of goods of this character; the industry has made rapid progress within the past decade, especially in the city of Philadelphia, the chief center for this class of silk goods. Curtains largely made of silk, but with some admixture of cotton, are now offered to consumers at a less price than were "all cotton" goods ten years ago, while tapestries, principally used in furniture coverings, are fully 30 per cent cheaper and of much better design and quality. Equally in "Other upholstery broad goods", such as brocatelles, light silk damasks for draperies, silk chenilles, etc., the improvement has been exceedingly rapid. The goods produced, are sold at lower prices than ever before, and the industry is capable, under favorable conditions, of much larger expansion and diversification of product. TRIMMINGS. The variance in classification in the summaries of finished production between the Tenth and Eleventh Censuses renders it somewhat difficult to make a correct detailed comparison. This is especially so in the item of. trimmings. The following statement, however, is presented : Upholstery and military triramings - Coach laces aod carriage trimmings . Total TJpbolstery gimps and trimmings. Military trimmings Total Fringes and dress trimmings Cords, tassels, passementerie, and military trimmings . Undertakers {«), batters', and fur trimmings Total Dress and cloak trimmings . 1880 1890 $1, 392, 355 37, 510 1, 429, 865 $3, 918, 209 232, 600 4, 150, 809 4, 950. 275 1, 866, 575 69. 805 6. 876 655 4. 403, 757 a Undertakers' trimmings should properly be classed with ' ) they were classed with " Hatters' and far triramings". Upholstery trimmings ", but in This statement shows that the reported value of the entire production of trimmings in 1880 was $8,306,520, while in 1890 it was $8,554,566, an increase of $248,046, or 2.99 per cent, and that while the production of upholstery and military trimmings combined increased in the sum of $2,720,944, or 190.29 per cent, that of dress and cloak trimmings decreased $2,472,898, or 35.96 per cent. The decrease in the latter item can be attributed only to adverse fashions in the use of both dress and cloak trimmings, ribbons having largely taken their place for dress garniture, while plainer styles of cloaks were in favor. This class of goods is perhaps more at the mercy of the ever changing whims of fashion than any other line of the industry. HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS. The manufacture of hosiery and knit goods, with its total production of $1,156,172, is practically a development ■ of the past ten years, no separate mention of goods of this character having been made at the census of 1880. The^ industry is thriving and rapidly assuming importance, the goods produced being of the highest possible grade. .218 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. NUMBER OF ESTABLISHMENTS. The census of 1880 reported 382 establishments engaged in the silk industry in that year, which included some •of those employed exclusively in silk dyeing, finishing, etc., the number of which was less than in 1890. The number of establishments reported in 1890 was 472, being all silk manufacturing concerns, an increase of 90, or :23.56 per cent. To these should be added 52 establishments engaged exclusively in silk dyeing and finishing, making a total for the whole industry of 524 establishments, a net increase over 1880 of 142 establishments, or 37.17 ;per cent. The following comparative statement for 1880 and 1890 shows, by states, the number of establishments •engaged in the industry (including dyeing and finishing) and the increase or decrease in each: STATES. NUMB ESTABLlt 1S80 EE or HJIENTS. Increase. Decrease. 1890 The TTnlted States 382 1 524 \ California Connecticut Illinois Kansas o 9 28 3li 4 8 6 5 1 11 1 1 4 4 22 i 5>n 1 2 1 1 1 1 106 1 15B 50 5') 1 151 1 206 1 1 6 1 3 49 ' 71 1 i :-t North Carolina 3 22 2 1 1 1 ,■' The following statement, reproduced from the report on "The Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles", shows the 'number of establishments, amount of capital, miscellaneous expenses, average number of employes and their wages, -power used, cost of materials used, and total value of work done in establishments devoted exclusively to dyeing -and finishing silk igoods and yarns: ESTABLISHMENTS- ENC^AGED EXCLUSIVELY IN DYEING AND FINISHING SILK GOODS AND YAENS. TliB TJiiite'd States ^^ew Jersey - . . 'New York --- AH otlier states (!<) Number of establish- ments. 24 21 7 Value of hired property. Direct investment. $487, 933 193, 800 285, 133 9,000 $1,880,224 Miscel- laneous AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) Aggregates. Average number. 1,313,306 466,505 100, 413 I $177, 933 123, 607 47, 706 0,620 1,745 1,292 391 62 Total wages. $1, 013, 325 Males I Females above 16 ; above years. 15 years. 744, 069 230, 034 39, 232 1,233 344 62 Children. iHORSE POWER. COST OF MATERIALS USED. Value of work done. -3TATES. Steam. Water. All other. Total. Chemicals and dyestuffs. Fuel, Rent of power and heat. All other materials. Thfi TTnitp'rl Stdftes - 1,513 21 10 $1, 276, 920 $1, 092, 192 $83,475 $4,675 $96, 584 . $2,935,101 777 545 191 10 1, 127, 346 111, 129 38, 451 987, 957 75, 012 29, 223 70, 582 9,498 3,395 600 4,075 68. 207 22,544 5, 833 2,333,716 New York - . - - - -— All other states 478,637 21 ] 122 748 a Includes ofhcers, firm members, and clerks. b Includes states grouped, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments were distributed as follows : ^Connecticut, 1 ; Illinois, 1 : Pennsylvania, 5. TEXTILES— SILK. 219 LOCATION OF SILK MILLS. Allusion lias "been made to the spread of the industry during the past decade through the establishment >of mills at numerous points.outside the recognized centers of the industry in 1880. A large portion of the spread of the industry to new points has resulted from the location by manufacturers ■elsewhere engaged therein of " annex" establishments devoted mainly to the " throwing" branch, in which women and childi'en are principally employed, the work being of the lightest kind. This has occurred notably in the state of Pennsylvania, where, in addition to a plentiful supply of otherwise unemployed labor of the character mentioned, fuel is comparatively cheap. The location of mills in this state, as well as in some instances in other states, has, furthermore, been greatly stimulated by the financial inducements offered by various towns, the citizens of which have wished to secure an industry in their localities furnishing hght, agreeable, and remunerative emj)loyment. Hence liberal subscriptions have been made toward the erection of mills. While these isolated establishments, as a rule, were at the first mere "annexes" devoted to the "throwing" of material to be woven at the parent establishment in one or another of the chief centers of the manufacture, weaving was later also entered upon, while especially among those established in the latter half of the past decade there are a number of well equipped factories, embracing all the branches, from the spindle to the loom. The question of advantq,ge or disadvantage of an isolated location presents a problem which has been widely discussed. On the one side are cheaper fuel, cheaper hel]), lower taxes, less exxiense for factory space, etc., while on the other there are the advantages of proximity to market, to expert textile machinists, and to depots for all manner of supjilies, and also of having trained employes, who can hardly be induced to remove to country towns, where almost all the operatives must first be instructed in their several tasks. But whatever tlje advantages or disadvantages of a remote location, the " throwsters" at the principal centers have found it difficult to compete with these outside establishments, the difference in wages alone being a most important factor. CAPITAL. The returns for capital are far more complete at the Eleventh Census than any previously obtained, •embracing in detail the " Live assets " and also the " Value of hired property ", while at the Tenth Census they were largely confined to the actual investments of manufacturers, and did not include the " Value of hired property", which under the Eleventh Census aggregates $10,355,160, making a total of $61,362,697. In making comparisons with the Tenth Census this amount is omitted. Direct investment in 1890 amounts to $51,007,537 (a), as against $19,125,300 in 1880, an increase of $31,882,237, or 166.70 per cent. The items of " Value of land and buildings" and "Total value of machinery" are the only ones with which the returns of 1880 can be fairly compared. The value of land and buildings increased from $3,836,600 in 1880 to $6,904,628 in 1890, an increase •of $3,068,028, or 79.97 per cent, while the value of the machinery employed increased from $5,227,500 in 1880 to $14,181,680 in 1890, an increase of $8,954,180, or 171.29 per cent. In 1880 the combined value of land and buildings and machinery was $9,064,100, leaving $10,061,200 as the amount otherwise included as capital, the respective percentages of the above to the whole sum of $19,125,300 being 47.39 and 52.61. In 1890 the combined value of the same items was $21,086,308, leaving •S2!),921,229 as the amount otherwise included as capital, the respective percentages to the whole sum of $51,007,537 being 41.34 and 58.66. In 1880 the value of finished goods produced for each dollar of capital invested was $1.80, and in 1890 it was $1.36. Although these figures apparently show that the producing capacity of capital was smaller in 1890 than in 1880, the fact that " Live assets " were more fully reported under the Eleventh than under the Tenth Census, and the great decline in prices of products, already alluded to, should be considered in this connection. A careful analysis of these two items will demonstrate that the ratio of production to capital in 1890 was considerably larger than in 1880. EMPLOYES AND WAGES. The retiirns show that the average number of employes in 1890 was 50,913 (b), while in l.SSO it was 31,337, the increase amounting to 19,576, or 62.47 per cent. The following statement shows the increase or decrease in number and percentage of males, females, and •children employed in 1890 as compared with 1880: AVERAGE NU^IIiEK OF EMPLOYES. Males above 16 years ... "Females above 15 years. Chilclreu 18, 998 29, 049 2,806 INCREASE. DECREASE. Xumber, Per cent. Xnmber. ! Per cent. 9,375 9,623 12, 653 102. 65 77.17 16. 396 5,566 2, TOO ' 4X. 51 a In addition to these amounts, 52 establislimonts engaged exclusively in dyeing and finishing silk goods and yarn in 1890 report " hired property " to the valne •of $487,933 and a direct investment of $1,880,224. 6 To these amounts should be added 1,745 employes and $1,013,325 -ivagcs, reported by 52 establishments engaged in dyeing and finishing silk goods and yarn, making the total number of employes in the silk industry 52,658, to whom $20,693,643 was paid in wages. 220 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Notwithstanding the growth of the industry, the decrease in the number of children employed is very noticeable, being largely due to the stringent laws which have been enacted during the decade in several states regulating the employment of children in factories. The total amount paid in wages in 1890 was $19,680,318 {a), as against $9,14;^, 705 in 1880, an increase of $10,533,613, or 115.16 per cent. The following comparative statements show the rates of wages paid per week to classified operatives in 1880' and 1890. It is proper to mention, however, that only 65 per cent of the establishments made detailed reports on this subject in 1890. RA.TES OF WAGES PER WEEK TO CLASSIFIED OPERATIVES: 1880. CLASSES OF OPERATIVES. Raw ailk winders Raw silk cleaners Raw silk doublers Raw silk spinners - -^ Raw silk twisters Raw silk reelers Soft silk doublers Soft silk winders Soft silk spoolers Soft silk warpers Quiilers and quill winders. Soft silk beamers Soft silk warp twisters Hand loom weavers (&) Power loom weavers (6) . . . Males. $5.57 5.98 10.71 Females. 12.11 I 13. 90 ; . U.15 : 11.43 i S5.25 3.37 5.18 4.87 5.07 4.50 4.00 0.35 4 96 7.62 4.00 7.72 8.44 7.94 CLASSES or OPERATIVES. Lace machine operators . . Braid maiihine operators . Braiders Passementerie spinners. - Fringe knotters Tassel makers Finishers Designers (c) Card cutters (d) Dyers (e) Engineers Machinists Loom fixers Laborers Males. $14. 75 16.00 13.50 24.71 11,68 12.77 12.33 12.401 15.87 8.73 Females. $5.41 .12.00 6.30 5.29 RATES OF WAGES PER WEEK TO CLASSIFIED OPERATIVES: 1890. CLASSES OF OPERATIVES. Raw silk winders Raw silk cleaners Raw silk doublers Raw silk spinners Raw silk twisters Soft silk winders Soft silk spoolers Soft silk warpers Soft silk beamers Soft silk warp twisters Hand loom weavers Power loom weavers ; Broad goods Ribbons Braiding machine operatives . Knitting machine operatives . Lace machine operatives Designers Card cutters Dyers Finishers Laborers other operatives Number of establish- ments. a Set* note b on page 210. 6 There is a very great dill'erence in the size of looms for diflerent kinds of goods, large looms used in fringe and trimming manufactures. c The designer is sometimes also the superintendent. d The card cutter is sometimes also the designer. e The chief (iyer receives from $20 to $30. 126 18 111 90 68 193 123 142 56 91 39 30 14 4 17 35 16 58 10 82 Kales. $6.70 7.52 6.09 13.60 11.26 13.35 14.09 11.16 15.74 8.48 16.00 13.00 23.18 15.05 16.00 13.87 9.29 12.34 Females. $5.24 4.71 6.07 4.86 5.25 6.31 5.71 8.74 9.40 10.00 8.52 9.04 11.28 6.00 8.00 16.50 8.60 10.12 4.50 6.89 Children. $3.10 3.16 3.34 3.56 3.25 The highest rates to power loom weavers are paid to those employed on tb© TEXTILES— SILK. 221 MACHINEEY. BROAD GOODS LOOMS. Allusion has heretofore been made to the decrease in the employment of haad looms within the past census decade. In 1880 the total number of looms reported in use for weaving broad goods was 4,732; of this number 1,629 were hand looms and 3,103 power looms. In 1890 but 413 hand looms were reported in use, the decrease being 1,216, or 74.65 per cent. In 1880 the respective percentages of hand and power looms employed in this branch were 34.43 and 65.57. In 1890 the total number of broad looms employed was reported at 15,279, of which 413 were hand looms and 14,866 power looms, the total increase over 1880 being 10,547, or 222.89 per cent; of this number 14,866 were power looms, the increase in these being 11,763, or 379.08 per cent. In 1890 the respective percentages of hand and power looms employed in this branch were -!.70 and 97.30. NAREOW GOODS LOOMS. In 1880 the total number of looms employed in the combined production of ribbon and other narrow goods (no subclassiflcation being made) was 3,742; of this number 1,524 were hand looms and 2,218 power looms. In 1890 1,334 hand looms were reported in use, the decrease being 190, or 12.47 per cent. In 1880 the respective percentages of hand and power looms employed in this branch were 40.73 and 59.27. In 1890 the total number of looms engaged in this branch was reported at 7,290, of which 1,334 were hand looms and 5,956 power looms, the total increase over 1880 being 3,548, or 94.82 per cent. Of the total number, 5,956 were power looms, the increase being 3,738, or 168.53 per cent. Of tbese 5,956 power looms 4,389 were reported as engaged in the production of ribbons and 1,567 on " Other narrow goods ". In 1890 the respective percentages of hand and power looms employed in this branch were 18.30 and 81.70. Adding together the looms for broad goods and narrow goods, it is found that the total number of hand looms employed in 1880 was 3,153 and of power looms 5,321, making an aggregate of 8,474, while in 1890 there were 1,747 hand looms and 20,822 power looms, an aggregate of 22,569, showing an increase in the latter year of 14,095 looms, or 166.33 per cent. The respective percentages of hand and power looms employed in 1880 were 37.21 and 02.79; in 1890 they were 7.74 and 92.26. These figures furnish ample warrant for the statement that the hand loom is now a factor of but little importance in silk manufacture; in fact, for weaving broad goods and ribbons but few were in operation at the Eleventh Census. A comparatively small number are employed in making patterns, bookmarks, and badges, while others are engaged in weaving fine veilings, tissues, or other special productions, but the larger Ijroportion is employed in the trimmings branch. This falling into desuetude of the hand loom has been a natural result of the progress of the decade, high speed and the most economical methods having become matters of paramount importance, while the marvelous advance in perfected power driven machinery, on which the most difficult classes of work, including even swiveled effects, can now be executed, has rendered it obsolete, except for the few special purposes indicated. Referring to the great advance in machinery and appliances employed in silk manufacture, it should be stated that while considerable progress had been made in this department prior to the Tenth Census great and vitally important improvements liave since been achieved in all classes of silk machinery. Especially is this the case in power looms for weaving both broad and narrow goods, which have been brought to a high degree of perfection, the natural eftect of which has not only lessened the cost of production but resulted in the manufacture of a higher class of fabrics of a character in many instances never before attempted in this country. Among the most important improvements in this direction is the adaptation of the swivel loom attachment to the power loom. This loom produces swivel or embroidered effects even more satisfactorily than was formerly achieved by the hand loom, which had been regarded hitherto as the only loom on which swivel work could be performed. The capacity of production by the power of the swivel loom is many times greater. SPINDLES. The following tabular statement shows the increase in the number of spindles of the various kinds employed in 1890 over 1880, together with percentages of such increase: Total Winding, cleaning, and doubling Spinning and twisting Braiding 1890 1, 254, 798 369, 036 718, 360 167, 403 1880 508, 137 164, 218 262, 312 81,607 INCREASE. Number. Per cent. 746, 661 204, 817 466, 048 85, 796 146.94 124. 72 173. 86 105. 13 222 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The speed of the modern spinning frame has been accelerated to an extent which: some years since wonldl have seemed almost impracticable. But a short time before the census of 1880 throwing machinery was- introduced, the spindles of which made 10,000 revolutions per minute, which was almost double the speed previously attained. Subsequently 12,000, 15,000, and even more revolutions were achieved, but in time it was ascertained that there was a point beyond which no advantage was gained by increasing the speed, and hence the tendency of late has been rather toward reducing it, the results being generally more satisfactory. At present about 10,000 revolutions per minute for the " first time over " and about 7,500 revolutions for the " second time over " is the average speed at which spindles are operated on the latest improved machinery, while on frames of less m^odern construction the speed is very much lower, often not exceeding 5,000 or even 4,000 revolutions. Equally, as in looms and spinning machinery, has there been a great improvement in all other mechanical appliances, such as winders, doublers, wrappers, quillers, and jacquard dobbies, the running speed of all of which has undergone large increase. The number and kinds of other mechanical accessories reported in use at the- Eleventh Census are as follows: jacquard attachments, 5,905; sewing machines, 1,032; knitting machines, 245;. lace machines, 78. MATEEIALS USED. The gross cost of all materials and supplies consumed in 1880 was $22,467,701 ; in 1890 it was $61,004,425, an increase of $28,536,724, or 127.01 per cent. In 1890 the cost of raw silk and silk materials consumed constituted 90.88 per cent of the cost of all materials used; in 1880 it was 85.49 per cent. In 1890 the gross value of manufactured products was $87,298,454, the percentage of the gross cost of materials and supplies being 58.43 of the product, while in 1880 the percentage was 54.76. The cost of raw silk and silk material consumed in 1890 was $46,351,200. From this amount should be deducted the sum of $15,537,520 for silk material " twice included "- Silk material is "twice included" when it appears, first, as "raw silk" in the returns of a "throwster", and,, secondly, as "thrown silk" or "fringe silk", reported as raw material in the return of a weaver or fringe maker. The value of silk products thus twice included is deducted from the gross valne of production, leaving a result, which, it will be noticed, exactly agrees with the value of finished goods as shown by the returns. The reasons for this deduction are similar to those which apply to the values of the raw materials. While the gross value of production amounts to $87,298,454, it covers only a real value of product amounting to $69,154,599. It should be noted that the products of partial manufacture go for the most part to be finished to points other than those where they originate. Hence, in many cases, the gross production of a state more nearly represents its industry than would the value of its finished goods. For instance, the gross production of Pennsylvania, amounting to $19,357,546, is much nearer the total value of its silk manufactures than the sum of $11,404,223, the value of its completed goods, because a large portion of the thrown silk produced in that state is not made into goods there,, but goes elsewhere for manufacture. The reference to " thrown silks" justifies some allusion to the throwing branch of the manufacture. Eaw silk as reeled from the cocoon differs from the fiber or filament forming the material for other textiles, in that while it is necessary to spin the latter down to a thread of sufficient fineness to weave, it becomes necessary in the use of raw silk to twist or "throw" together a number of the filaments sufficient to form a thread coarse enough to weave. Hence comes the word "throwster", an old English term by which those engaged in this preparatory process of the manufacture are designated, the warp and weft produced by them being known, respectively, as "organzine" and "tram", words derived from the French "organzin", meaning a double- twisted silk^and "tram",, meaning weft. In establishments exclusively engaged in this branch the work is generally done on commission for other establishments engaged in weaving, the latter furnishing the raw stock. The returns for 1890 show - about 44 establishments of this character, while, in addition, many weaving concerns possess, their own throwing: plants. TEXTILES— SILK. 223' IMPORTS OP RAW SILK.. The following tabular statement exhibits the imports of raw silk by fiscal, years from 1880 to. 1890, inclusive, as reported by the bureau of statistics, Treasury Department, with number of pounds and, value. The receipts of raw silk at the ports of New York and the Pacific coast are likewise presented in number of bales and cases since 1880, according to the records of the Silk Association of America. For purposes of comparison, the imports in the years 1850, 1860, 1870, and 1880 are also presented. Attention is directed to the marked increase in the importation, of raw silk. IMPORTS OF RAW SILK. [From reports of the bureau of statistics. Treasury Degartmeint.] TEARS. Pounds. Value. Number of bales and cases received at tlip ports of New Torlt and the Pacific coast. 1850 .' al20, 010 a297, 877 583, 589 2, 562. 236 2,550,103 2,879,402 3, 253, 370 3, 222, 546 3, 424, 076 4, 754, 626 4, 599, 574 6, 173, 840 5, 329, 646. 5, 943. 360 $401,385- 1, 340, 676 3, 017, 958 12, 024, 699 10, 888, 264 12, 890, 392 14, 043, 340 12,481,496 12,421,739 17, 232, 505 18, 687. 245 19, 151, 208 18, .544, 025' 23, 285, 099 1860 21, 741 20, 198 21, 682 23, 927 23, 067 23, 914 32, 997 31, 974 36,108 37,583 ■ 43, 766 .1870 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 : 1889 1890 a Estimated from current pricus, only the value being on record. The tendency during the last decade has been toward the increased use of finer grades of raw silk as a. consequence of the better qualities of goods manufactured. This is demonstrated by the following comparative statement, which gives the valuation of imports of the different classes at the ports of, ISTew York and the Pacific coast, as shown by the records of the Silk Association of America (a),, for the fiscal years 1889-1890 and 1883-1883^ The first year for which this classification was kept was 1882-1883, and hence is the first classification that can be presented for comparison. strictly European Japan Shanghai Hongkong 1889-1890 $6, 060, 776 12, 499, 498 3,491,579 2, 603, 108 1S82-18SS $3; 716, 609 6,379,116- 2; 768, 323 1, 823, 537 Value. Per cent. $2; 344, 167 6, 120, 383 723, 256 779, 571 63.07 95. 94 - 20.13 42. 75 . Keference has been made to the decline which has taken place in the prices of raw silk. This decline may be estimated from the average prices current at the two fiscal years- of 1880 and 1890, amounting to from 15 to 20 per cent, which is largely the result of the increased demand, consequent upon the development of American manufacture and the stimulation of raw silk production thereby engendered in other countries. a It will be observed that the valuation of the imports as given by the Silk Association of America in- both the years mentioned somewhat ej^ceeds that of the bureau of statistics, although the former does not include ports of entry other than, those specified. above. The amount brought in at other ports, however, is infinitesimal, while the figures of the bureau of statistics simply relate to the value of the raw silk at the place of export and do not include the expenses,, of shipping charges, commissions, freight, marine insurance, and the Japanese export duties, ,as.jio the. estimates of .the, Silk Assooialioa of America.. 224 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. WASTE SILK, PIEECED COCOONS, AND NOILS. In addition to the imports of raw silk, the following statement, showing the imports of waste silk, pierced ■cocoons, and. noils from 1880 to 1890, is presented. The manipulation of spun silk was in its infancy in this country "ten years ago, but it has kept pace in the development of the industry with the use of reeled silk, and is a factor >of no small importance. IMPOETS OF WASTE SILK, PIERCED COCOONS, AND NOILS. [From reports of the bureau of statisticp, Treasury Department.] ■j)':-- YEARS. Pounds. Value. 1881 $659, 914 672, 384 1 HQQ fil9 1882 1883. .. .... 1 477 736 1884 3,002,342 744,033 884, 832 404, 490 2,063 434 1 1,021,763 1,428,517 ; 960,840 1, 196, 482 778, 934 1, 815, 478 ; 787, 385 1,567,080 1.(140 13!! 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1 IMPORTATIONS OP GOODS. The following comparative statement shows the value of silk goods, by classes, imported at the port of New York, by fiscal years, from 1881 to 1890, inclusive. The imports at New York comprise fully 96 per cent of the total value of silk imports. The largest importation in any year previous to 1881 was in 1872, amounting to $36,448,618. This table exhibits the classes and invoice value of silk goods of foreign manufacture consumed in the United States. Table 4.— INVOICE VALUE OF SILK GOODS, BY CLASSES, IMPORTED AT THE PORT OF NEW YORK, BY FISCAL YEARS, FROM 1881 TO 1890, INCLUSIVE: [Compiled by Mr. Briton Kichardson, secretary of the Silk Association of America.] Total Silk piece goods . - .Satins Crapes .Pongees Plushes Velvets Kihbons Laces ■Shawls ■Gloves ■Cravats Handkerchiefs Hose Threads and yams Braids and binding Silk and -worsted - Silk and cotton — Silk and linen 1889-1890 $36, 766, 090 589, 511 486, 268 126, 452 11, 217 774, 728 482, 401 692, 611 972, 655 172, 854 399, 425 87, 144 99, 227 395, 096 461, 311 707,154 478, 252 808, 892 20, 892 1888-1889 $34, 057, 170 10, 648, 535, 100, 49, 4,110, 1, 883, 1,617, 3, 320, 180, 345, 98, 146, 292, 308, 2, 396, 1, 877, 6, 080, 3, 1887-1888 ! 1886-1887 $31,455,215 11, 405, 076 568, 281 230, 089 87, 234 3. 516, 248 2, 746, 729 1, 194, 458 2, 361, 735 193, 669 379, 064 83, 989 281, 016 317, 897 162, 606 1,559,456 969, 998 5, 334, 961 2,210 $29, 366, 924 11, 263, 296 534, 051 247, 174 16,624 2, 153, 209 3, 527, 953 1, 240, 846 2, 135, S93 184, 606 478, 153 62, 971 103, 851 350, 169 190, 446 1, 350, 336 727, 423 4, 731, 877 8,547 1885-1886 i 1884-1885 $26, 147, -635 $26, 108, 190 11,431.840 432, 789 403, 763 82. 374 1, 414, 727 2, 747, 736 1, 253, 717 1, 820, 692 106, 590 503, 823 33, 015 169,948 270, 735 159, 189 097, 938 357, 800 4, 259, 052 1.907 12, 423, 750 291, 317 401. 730 35, 497 1, 486. 902 2, 786, 046 1, 243, 974 1, 614, 374 138,495 610, 950 18, 763 158, 298 327, 649 129, 996 697, 327 253, 202 3, 486, 268 1.663 1883-1884 $34, 039, 697 18,432,599 173, 784 473, 568 24, 667 1, 260, 706 2, 831, 410 2,618,463 2, 126, 979 63, 654 652, 942 21, 095 120, 743 317, 801 193, 782 1,334,692 180, 801 3, 207, 943 4,008 1882-188S $33, 967, 171 18, 585, 896 109, 666 479, 962 30, 938 875, 785 1, 940, 015 2, 229, 226 3, 126, 597 6,810 333, 716 69, 455 59, 786 297, 960 155, 282 1, 087, 416 90, 786 4, 486, 836 1.039 1881-1882 $36, 432, 706 19, 429, 606 200,763 636, 277 8,651 1, 121, 990 1, 402, 663 2, 707, 693 4, 073, 891 '7,790 170, 151 60, 341 75, 671 179, 254 128, 790 1, 191, 140 123,939 5, Oil, 843 2,263 1880-1881 $30,501,851 16, 167, 056 272, 641 489. 560 18. 477 495, 496 1, 575, 715 3,103,501 1, 883, 236 17, 466 204, 703 69, 914 53, 727 110, 277 175, 627 1, 323, 437 174, 390 4, 366, 921 1,644 Table 5 presents by state totals detailed information reported at the Eleventh Census under the general heads of "Capital", " Miscellaneous expenses ", "Employes ad wages", "Machinery", "Materials used", and ^' Value of products". Tables 6 and 7 present the statistics of employes and wages in the various classes. TEXTILES— SILK. 225 Table 5.— DETAILED STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. Num- ber of eatab- lish- inents. The United States OalifoiTiia Connecticut Illinois Maryland MaBsachiisetta "New Jersey Xew York Oliio Pennsylvania Rhode Island All other states (a) . Value of hired property. $10, 355, 160 Direct investment. 1 Aggreg^ate. 35 10 4 20 132 185 3 66 3 5 99, 260 228, 841 326, 164 33,144 306, 542 2, 225, 314 5, 519, 537 11, 000 1, 482, 231 108, 767 14, 360 $51, 007, 537 112, 283 9, 037, 042 422. 096 50, 400 3, 353, 296 16, 809, 927 11, 165, 918 37, 830 9, 362, 063 122, 256 534. 426 Value of plant. Total. $21, 086, 308 30, 2, 913, 199, 19, 956, 7, 209, 4. 989, 16, 4, 404, 70, 276, Land. $1, 691, 660 152, 589 33, 000 6,000 300 919 002 000 850 Buildings. $5, 212, 968 77, 590, 544, 10, 230, 1, 143, 200 60, 000 1,500 287, 500 1, 579, 160 832, 240 5,000 1,225,652 41,000 78, 716 Machinery, tools, and implements. $14, 181, 680 30, 409 1, 617, 538 106, 200 12, 400 591, 908 5, 039, 564 3, 612, 758 1,750 2, 941, 679 70, 364 157, 110 MISCELLANEOCS EXPt STATES. Total. Rent paid for tenancy. Taxes. Insur- ance. The United States. $4, 259, 623 $734, 268 $156, 444 $220, 849 10, 438 270, 426 35, 761 3,798 484, 390 1,356,137 1,123.671 2, 662 939, 051 17,427 15. 862 7,246 21, 630 17,035 2, 435 35, 838 182, 148 359, 777 1 780 397 19, 799 1,885 237 21, 889 67, 807 19. 815 595 1,251 19,841 Illinois 6,511 211 12, 908 67, 264 63, 177 327 Massachusetts New Jersey New Yorli Pennsylvania , Rhode Island All other states 98, 089 22, 502 ■ 7. 940 114 1,350 1 1,404 46,588 629 2,142 Repairs, ordinary, of build- ings and machinery. $552, 818 661 73, 438 5,245 85 23, 676 170, 074 88, 594 260 184, 449 1,392 4,944 Interest paid on cash used in the business. Sundries not else- where reported. $661, 663 210 39, 783 85 730 91, 989 252, 821 171, 422 $1, 933, 581 97,319 1,482 6,022 873 95, 935 5,000 100 298, 090 616, 223 420, 886 700 490, 104 5,870 Live assets. Total. $29, 921, 229 81, 874 6, 123, 715 222, 896 30, 500 2, 396, 588 9, 600, 284 6, 176, 918 21, 080 4, 957, 882 51, 892 257,600 i Raw materials. $6, 525, 692 28, 300 1, 168, 840 84, 950 6,400 277, 583 2, 110, 441 1, 502, 202 6,800 1. 286, 296 20. 629 33, 251 Stock in process and finished products on hand. $15, 879, 617 Cash, hills and accounts receivable, and all sun- dries not elsewhere reported. $7,515,920 15, 642 3, 033, 256 39, 000 15, 700 1, 019, 195 5, 892, 607 3, 265. 119 4,100 2, 417, 660 15, 369 161, 969 37, 932 1, 921, 619 98, 946 8,400 1, 099. 810 1, 597, 236 1. 409, 597 10. 180 1.253,926 15, 894 62, 330 AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES.' Aggregate. Average number. 50 913 214 5.081 805 75 3,216 17, 917 13. 151 40 9.522 194 698 Total wages. $19, 680, 318 2, 006, 804 295, 636 24, 233 1, 296, 399 7. 176, 180 5. 584, 399 13, 885 2,981,334 61, 978 156, 104 Officers, firm members, and clerks. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years . 135 1 $1,917,877 7 109 41 i 3 215 4H i I 401 I 2 184 , 17 61 i 31' 15, 276 159, 273 54, 314 3,600 258, 115 541, 570 601, 336 2,512 256, 049 8,507 17, 325 UL Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed, are distributed as follows: Maine, 1; Michigau, 1; Missouri,!; North Carolina, 1 ; Virginia,!. 2457 15 These establishments 226 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 5 — DETAILED STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890— Continued. AVERAGE NU-MBER OP EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES — Continued. MACHINERY. Operatives and skilled, (a) Unskilled. Number of spindles. Kumber of looms. STATES. Hand. Power. Males above 16 years. Fe- males above 15 years. Chil- dren. Wages. Males above 16 years. Fe- males above 15 years. Chil- dren. Wages. Winding, cleaning, and doubling. Spinning and twisting. Braid- ing. For broad goods. For narrow goods. For broad goods. For rib- bons. For other narrow goods. The TJnited States. 16, 718 28, 702 2,773 $17, 290, 315 834 212 93 $472,126 369, 035 718, 360 167, 403 413 1,334 14,866 4,389 1,667 41 1,331 154 27 892 7,460 4,306 8 2,318 46 ■ 135 139 3,186 589 44 1,927 8,763 7,920 28 5,607 107 392 2 123 10 56 894 264 1,254 29 141 64, 548 1, 716, 669 239, 624 20, 568 993, 400 6,481,155 4,903,590 11, 173 2, 671, 333 52, 357 135, 908 8 209 3 1 85 313 150 13 115 3,742 130, 872 1,698 65 44, 884 153, 455 79,473 799 45, 402 363 6 26,235 135, 160 62, 197 96 89,429 930 8,418 2,018 84, 262 369 29 11, 492 221 6 35 82 1,053 1 290 29 14 2,112 1,478 Massachusetts 1 10 63 32 5 16 55, 200 224, 204 92,772 30, 403 19, 366 72,635 41 218 80 8 60 55 19 972 8 163 354 9,146 1,838 90 Ohio Pennsylvania.--, Rhode Island 102 3 10 10 39 1 53, 952 1,114 2,871 228, 786 2,463 28, 286 30, 217 40 3,000 2,306 451 43 603 A 11 other states 169 MACHINERY— continued. MATERIALS USED. STATES. Number of machines. Total cost. 1 i Eaw sUk. i Waste silk. Organzine and tram. Other silk mate- Jac- quard. Knit- ting. Lace. Sew- ing. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. The United States. 6,905 245 78 1,032 $51, 004, 425 6, 376, 881 $20, 087, 371 1, 357, 618 $1, 106, 608 3, 305, 372 $16,518,979 744, 223 $2, 638, 242 California 8 230 6 5 1 10 1 3 16 3 146, 406 6. 201, 8^6 314, 855 34, 305 3, 251, 893 17, 908, 883 10, 174, 818 13, 983 12, 094, 389 149,763 713,254 20, 575 1, 142, 802 5,225 71,012 4, 560, 968 23,500 200 648, 823 500 515, 738 3,718 113,978 7,095 4,645 97, 278 1, 868, 517 912. 782 920 287, 159 19, 280 31, 326 584, 442 34, 776 27, 705 485, 995 9,093,692 4, 680, 369 7,473 1, 484, 599 88, 602 3.071 15,527 21,798 360 23, 608 97, 793 169, 138 112 422, 826 20, 568 62, 180 97, 655 1,826 Massachusetts ; 42 4,195 846 68 1 139 3 74 11 187 712 558, 493 1, 845, 242 715, 003 2, 128, 772 7, 691, 253 3, 117, 515 191, 909 61, 420 59, 598 155, 494 56, 523 57, 003 91,436 360, 377 716, 394 862 Ohio Pennsylvania 540 43 20 1 100 1,932,396 7, 843, 624 310, 668 73, 000 12, 000 260, 457 58, 413 12, 480 1. 296, 945 All other states 157,145 650, 727 MATERIALS USED— continued. Other textile materials. Soap. Chemi- cals and dye- stuffs. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. All other materials. STATES. Oil. Total cost. Coal. Wood. Other fuel. Pounds. Cost. Gallons. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Cost. $538, 532 Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. V Co.st. The United States. 5, 624, 960 $2, 327, 684 76, 348 $32,514 2,340,098 $126, 065 .$400, 107 $372, 916 $11, 353 $15,838 $85, 409 $1. 122, 914 16. 920 118,474 274, 135 13, 303 78,485 1 1 1 97S 94 6,977 182 20 3,430 2.5, 103 10, 354 59 3,173 107 6 1,104 10, 666 4,611 2,900 580, 827 400 249 : LnO 102 73, 134 1.725 205 48, 149 143, 132 63, 990 .30 68, 382 1,485 205 41, 524 143, 128 50, 945 7-2 1.492 240 1,734 3,400 1,740 7,403 118,665 38 764 Connecticut 31, 055 20 170, 636 4.600 3,260 7 800 ^ 790 1 765 Massachusetts 212, 357 314, 050 2. 176, 847 7,975 2, 495, 909 156, 120 ■J28, 811 936, 248 5,488 794, 360 333,724 632, 315 220, 554 17, 847 32, 994 13, 042 51,025 111,990 100, 082 • 6,675 50 4 12, 980 870 33,453 33, 739 115,081 156, 992 451, 825 New York 65 Ohio 160 Pennsylvania 29, 223 12,429 297, 744 16, 650 195, 984 16,900 998 12, 954 108,012 63, 502 62, 372 130 1,000 9,473 1,000 214,092 All other states 493 102 965 359 12, 037 6,168 4.845 1,323 18, 427 a Includes pieceworkers and their wages. TEXTILES— SILK. Table 5.— DETAILED STATEMENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890— Continued. 227 The United States . GalifoTnia Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts . . New Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania . . . Rhode Island All other states . The United States . California Connecticut Illinois Maiyland Massachusetts ■ - New Jersey New "Fork Ohio Pennsylvania . . . Bhode Island ... All other states . VALUE OF PROnuCTfi. Total. 271 9, 788, 785, 100, 5, 557, 30, 760, 19, 417. 33, 19, 357, 229, 995, 912 951 845 361 569 371 796 927 546 062 114 Ory;anzine and; Spun silk tram. yarn. $16, 880, 366 $1, 263, 489 5,600 1, 366, 854 688, 359 5, 265, 389 1, 474, 841 7, 645, 323 444, 000 308, 536 257, 251 89, 000 206, 640 308, 000 94, 062 Machine twist and sewing silk. $7, 068, 213 81, 590 3, 820, 463 2, 216. 213 102, 750 254, 000 446, 197 147, 000 Fringe knit- ting, embroid- ery, and floss ' silk. $1, 849, 631 24, 840 704, 945 499, 131 119, 956 21, 259 389, 500 90, 000 Dress goods, figured and plain. ,$15, 183, 134 1, 099, 284 9, 297, 792 2, 592, 508 1, 940, 836 252,714 Tapestries, ' curtains, and '""„„;;: ; othci up- gooas. iiolst«ry broad goods. Other broad , $9, 000, 418 1, 384, 619 i, 712, 332 62, 163 2,000 784, 719 3, 517, 343 679, 356 572, 842 665, 604 2, 634, 381 2,409,723 VALUE OP PRODUCTS— continued. Gimps and trim- mings. $3, 918, 209 120, 112, 465, 24, 127, 185, 1, 984, 360 319 500 000 000 949 531 767 783 Handker- chiefs. $1, 913, 224 1, 872, 559 9,365 Kibbons and laces. $17, 343, 197 736, 642 70, 361 9, 229, 387 6,031,576 1, 195, 231 80, 000 Braids and bindings. $2, 771, 382 139, 05. 000 216 000 660, 359, 1. 154, 938 902 326 1,000 1,000 ;, 000 Dress, cloak, and military trimmings. $4, 636, 357 23, 840 228, 745 6, 000 160, 000 54, 000 3, 199, 709 25, 160 938, 903 Hosiery and knit goods. .$1, 156, 172 7,346 15, 125 23, 900 135, 958 79, 212 872, 800 All other products. $602, 330 2,336 17, 485 700 21, 831 28. OOO 14, 290 271, 281 244, 838 23, 400 228 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Tablu O.— classification^ OF EMPLOYES AND WAGES FOE THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. The United States California .Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts ^ew Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Rhode Island All other states (6) . AVERAGE NU.MBEE OP EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS. («) Aggregates. Aver- age number. 50, 913 $19, 680, 318 Total wages. 83, 666 2, 006, 804 295, 636 24, 233 1, 296, 399 7, 176, 180 0. 584, 399 13. 685 2, 981, 334 61, 978 156, 104 Officers OT firm members actively engaged in the industry' or in supervision. Males above 16 years. Num- ber. 48 19 3 44 201 220 1 number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per em- ploys. $36. 37 $1, 137, 043 36.73 36.66 31.92 24. 00 46.28 33.57 36.82 20.00 40.17 26.31 22.45 Total wages. 11, 020 87, 800 29, 060 3,600 99, 960 330, 814 394, 758 1,000 163, 066 7,675 8,300 Pemales above 15 years. Num- ber. Average number of weeks em- ployed. 60 Average week^- eamings per em- ployfi. $17. 80 $17, 836 21.82 20.00 14.99 Total wages. 1.000 3,000 9,120 3,216 Clerks. Males above 16 years. Num- ber. 752 1 61 22 number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per em. ploy6. .1. 171 210 181 1 $715, 193 20.51 18.13 18.55 20.65 12.00 18.97 18.26 Total wages. 1,560 68, '095 21,324 163, 665 189, 828 184, 454 600 87, 677 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS — continued. Clerks— Continued. Operatives and skilled. IBT-IITHB. Females above 15 years. Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earning.'* per em- ploy6. Total wages. Number. Average Average number weekly of weeks earnings em- per em- ployed, ployfi. Total wages. Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per em- ploy6. Total wages- The United States - 114 48 $8.71 .$47, 806 10, 694 49 $11. 36 $5, 847, 457 19, 695 : 48 $5.73 $5,475,613 California 3 ; 46 8 ' .^0 8.70 8.45 11.50 1,196 3,378 3,930 39 986 136 27 47 13. 12 50 12. 03 44 ' 11 88 24,206 592, 705 70, 522 11,980 399, 194 2, 016, 165 1, 866, 914 3,649 792,47*7 20, 006 50, 579 137 ; 48 2 499 '■ 50 5.67 5.60 5.88 3.93 5.54 6.39 5.88 5.64 4.93 5.13 3.16 37,318 700,'109 Illinois . ..- 8 43 635 44 1,549 6,951 4,825 28 3,767 54 306 46 60 49 47 49 48 48 48 48 143, 392 8,588 50 8.96 9.97 11.36 12. 80 n 6» Massachusetts 58 18 2 60 49 47 47 47 46 47 10.00 6.27 15.41 9.73 8.96 9.08 7.31 3,500 17, 928 13, 004 912 2,090 832 1,036 808 i 50 3,697 48 2,965 49 8 ' 47 424, 363 1,798,259 1, 398, 208 7,524 'New York 'Ohio 5 2 3 1 777 ' 4fl ! Q 9a 898, 188 13, 427 46, 237 jRhode Island All other states 41 110 50 49 j 9.84 9.42 a The average weekly earnings per employ^ are computed from individual reports. The average number of employ^a reported by each establishment is multiplied by the number of weeks embraced by the term of operation ; the result is the number of weeks required for one employe to perform the labor. Aggregating such results of individual reports the number of weeks required for one employ^ to perform the labor is obtained. This number used as a divisor for the total wages produces tbe true average weekly earnings. b Inclades states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may wot be disclosed. These establishments ^re distributed as follows : Maine, 1; Michigan,!; Missouri,!; North Carolina, 1 ; Virginia,!. TEXTILES— SILK. 229 Table 6.— CLASSIFICATION OF EMPLOYES AXD WAGES FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890— Continued. AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYliS IN EACH CLASS AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS— Continued. STATES. ! Operatives and skilled— Continued. ITnskilled. Children. — Males above 16 years. Females above 15 years. I ; Number. Average number of weeks employed. Average weekly earnings per em- ploy6. Tot,ll wages Number. 884 Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per em- ployfi. $9. 38 Total wages. Number. 212 Average number of weeks em- ployed. Average weekly earnings per em- ployfi. Total wages. ThellnitedStiiti's. i;. ,-i7:i 49 $3. 09 4.70 3.91 3.26 $390, (129 49 f 406, 657 48 27 50 .$4.70 $48, i7r California 2 Connecticut i 123 Illinois , 1(1 30 .50 48 470 24, 076 1.560 8 209 3 1 85 313 17 50 49 IC 50 49 10.50 1,454 10. 20 106. 575 11.48 1.698 0. 25 63 8. 75 37, 064 n. 73 149, 663 A. 22 ' 60, 877 13 115 6.64 4. 23_ 2,288- 24, 29T Maryland MassacliuaettB 48 49 858 49 24!) 49 4. 31 10, 075 3. 07 128, 973 3. 10 37, 500 1 10 63 44 50 49 6.86 0.37 •4.99 3U* 3,186 15, 562- Ohio Pennsylvania Ehode Island 1, 124 49 18 50 141 1 49 3. 10 [ 171. 220 3. 11 1 2. 798 1.95 1 13.359 102 48 3 ' 49 10 ! 50 9.22 ' 45.432 6. .57 958 10 48 5.32 2, 344 All other states 3. 74 ' 2. 871 ! AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYES IN AND AVERAGE WEEKLY EARNINGS- rnskilled— Continued EACH CLASS -continued. PIIiCEWORKEHH— AVKKAGE NLTMUER ri.MPLUY £U ANO TOTA ove 15 years. Wages. $2,446,275 L WAGES. Cbil STATES. Numbt^r. Chi Average number of weeks em- ployed. 49 dren. Summary. Males abo Number. ve 16 years. Females ah dren. Average weekly earnings per em- ploy 6. Total wages. .Number. 15,331 Wages. Wages. Number. Number. Wages. The United States. 93 $3.78 $17, 292 ^5, 577, 216 6,124 $3, 095, 4.17 9,007 200 $35, 524- Calilornia 4 1,032 72 2,494 399, 769 24, 150 2 1 S7n 2 687 54 624 202, 029 14, 040 345 1 197, 740 18 10, 110 Massachusetts New Jersey --. New York 32 16 50 ; 4.70 50 2.42 50 3.79 7,520 606 3, 034 470 6,611 4, 451 159, 768 2. 537, 758 .1,601,968 84 3,763 1,341 49, 165 1, 663, 655 846, 287 378 2,812 3,095 109, 038 862, 160 753, 806 8 36 15 1,575 11, 943 Ohio Pennsylvania Rhode Island 39 1 48 46 3.19 3.40 5,976 156 2,511 69 HI 809, 448 16, 128 25, 733 541 5 25 317, 327 1,434 7,839 1,840 53 86 474, 300 12, 384 17, 894 130 17,821 2 31* 230 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table T.— AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT THE DIFFERENT RATES OF PAY, FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1890. The United States California Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts ^ew Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania Ehode Island All other states (6) . . Number of establish- ments. 9 35 10 4 20 132 185 3 66 WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OP EMPLOYl5s AT EACH BATE, NOT INCLUDINO THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK, (a) Aggregates. Average number. Total 50,913 $19,680,318 214 5,081 805 75 3,216 17, 917 13, 151 40 9.522 194 83, 566 2, 006, 804 295, 636 24, 233 1, 296, 399 7, 176, 180 5, 584, 399 13,685 2,981,334 61, 978 156, 104 Males above 16 years. Total number. 12, 874 54 1,304 180 31 1,108 4,421 3,516 10 2,063 60 137 Under .$5. 639 6 12 $5 and over but under $6. 473 4 $6 and over but under ,$7. $7 and over but under $8. 7 80 177 111 87 2 10 136 317 138 143 14 23 4 113 1 82 270 89 $8 and over but under $9. 35 257 214 100 18 $9 and over but under $10. 1,342 281 32 110 512 160 $10 and over but under $12. 1,593 12 153 36 66 679 453 3 172 2 17 $12 and over iJut under $15, 8 192 27 10 252 737 605 2 318 10 16 TheUnitedStates- CaLifornia Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts. - Xew Jersey New York Ohio Pennsylvania.. - Ivhode Island — All other states. WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBEE OF EMPLOYl5:S AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS, FIRM MEMBERS. AND CLERKS. BUT NOT THOSE EMPLOYED ON PIECEWORK— Continued. Males above 16 years— Continued. Females above 15 years. $15 and over but under $20. 13 166 29 175 677 846 1 233 3 $20 and over but under $25. $25 and over. 3 : 67 ! 25 02 274 ' 175 I 78 i 3 I 10 98 13 2 47 263 372 Total number. 114 5 6 20, 042 154 2,622 6.13 44 1,558 6,026 4,910 30 3,785 56 30a Under $6. 6,523 26 529 116 39 364 1,370 1,493 10 2,280 $5 and over but under $6. 6, 072 63 948 180 682 1,526 1,109 2 631 24 1 $6 and over but under $7. $7 and over hut under $8. $8 and over but under $9. $9 and over but under $10. 485 $10 and over but under $12. $12 and over but under $15. 4,376 1,371 995 88.) 263 29 16 8 7 4 975 75 29 45 7 9 175 5 4 54 1 6 300 96 22 30 13 61 1,487 505 284 254 481 102 951 4.15 544 122 102 95 1,-1 2 1 407 212 5 53 24 269 4 32 1 1 1 The Uuited States. California Connecticut . . Illinois Maryland Massaclmsi'ttrt IN"ew York OMo WEEKLY RATES OF WAGES PAID AND AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AT EACH RATE, INCLUDING OFFICERS. FIRM MEMBERS, AND CLERKS, BUT NOT THOSE EMPJ.OYED ON PIECEWORK— continued. Females above ISvcars — (Jontiuued. $15 and over but under $20. $20 and over but under $25. ■25 and Children. Total number. 123 10 $5 and \ $6 aud $7 and over but \ over but , over but nnder $6, ■ under $7. under $8. 121 10 I $8 and over but under $9. PIECEWORKERS. Average number. 15, 331 4 1,032 72 Total wages. $6, 577, 216 2,494 399, 769 24, 160 80 863 265 67 1 801 ', 260 470 6,611 4,451 169, 768 2, 537, 768 1, eoi, 968 Penns.vlvania Rhode Island. . . All other states . 1.163 19 141 1,141 19 141 22 2,611 69 111 809, 448 16,128 25, 733 a In comparing the table of weekly rates and the number of employes at each rate with the average weekly earnings presented in Table 6 it must be remembered that it is not practicable to obtain true average weekly oarningp. from the table of weekly rates, because the term of employmeirt varies for employes at the respective rates. b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishmeDts are distributed as follows: Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; Missouri, 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia, 1. DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. BY P. T. WOOD. The dyeing and finishing of textiles are integral parts of the manufacture of textile fabrics. The tables exhibited in this report do not embrace the statistics of establishments connected with cotton woolen, or silk factories, but show only the operations of independent dye works, bleachei'ies, and print works, the A'alue of the products reported being merely the values added to the fabrics by the processes of dyeing and finishing. Much of the dyeing and finishing is done by the manufacturers themselves, the data showing that while chemicals and dyestuffs to the value of $8,407,693 were consumed during the census year in the establishments devoted exclusively to this industry, the silk, cotton, and woolen mills in which dyeing and finishing is done used chemicals and dyestufi's valued at $11,278,970, divided as follows : in woolen mills, $6,453,665 ; iu cotton mills, $4,266,773, and in silk mills, $558,532. It will thus be seen that more dyeing and finishing was done in textile mills than in the 248 establishments devoted exclusively to this industry. While there was an increase in all the expenses in the census year over those reported at the census of 1880, the returns show that the value of the work done in the dyehouses, bleacheries, and print works has decreased. Thus, while there were 248 esiiablishments engaged in this industry in 1890 and 191 in 1880, an increase of 29.84 per cent, the value of the work done during the census year (1890) was $28,900,560, as compared with $32,297,420 in 1880, a decrease of $3,396,860, or 10.52 per cent. This decrease is all the more marked because of the increase in the products of the silk, cotton, and woolen mills during the decade. At the same time a marked increase is shown in the amount paid for wages, a slight difference in cost of materials, and an apparently large increase in the amount of capital invested. The capital employed (not including $1,819,779 value of property hired) in the industry of dyeing and finishing textiles for 1890 was $38,450,800, an apparent but not an actual increase of $12,226,819 over that emiiloyed as reported at the census of 1880. The large increase shown in this item is partly due to the fact that invested capital as retxtrned at the census of 1880 did not take cognizance of all the items that are properly embraced by " Live assets ", which, it is believed, were for the first time fully reported at the census of 1890. Heuce, in making comparison between the returns of capital invested at the two censuses, these facts should be carefully borne in mind. Dyers and finishers explain that the decrease iu value of the work done as reported for 1890 is due to the fact that conij)etition and improved processes have reduced their charges for work at least 25 per cent. The market cost of chemicals and dyestuffs remains about the same, but it is not necessary to use as mucli of these articles now in a given quantity of goods as wi-s employed at the census of 1880. This is particularly noticeable in the manufactures of silk, as by the introduction of machinery operated by power it is now possible to do work that ten years ago could only be performed by hand. Therefore the decrease in the value of work done is not due to an increase in the number of manufacturers of textiles doing their own dyeing and finishing, since the proportion of such manufacturers in 1890 is about the same as in 1880. Notwithstanding the decrease in amount received for work done in the dyehouses an average increase is shown in the wages paid. In 1880 there were 16,698 employes, receiving $6,474,364 in wages, while 20,267 employes earned $9,717,011 in wages during the census year ended May 31, 1890. The percentage of increase in the number of employes is 21.37 and in wages paid 50.08. At the census of 1880 the cost of materials and wages was $20,138,659 as compared with a product' of $32,297,420, while at the census of 1890 the cost of these two principal items was $22,102,231 and value of product $28,900,560. Thus materials and wages cost 62.35 per cent of the value of work done in the former census year, while at the latter census the percentage had risen to 76.48. The work done, both in quantity and value, is principally in dyeing, bleaching, and printing cotton yarns and piece goods. 231 232 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. The amount of $28,900,560, given as value of product of dyehouses, bleacheries, and print works, does not show the full value added to textile manufactures by these processes. In the woolen mills chemicals and dyestuffs costing $6,453,665 were used. From the returns made by manufacturers it is found that the cost of these materials Is 36.18 per cent of the added value. Applying this basis of computation, it would appear that the added value of work done in woolen mills is $17,837,659. Chemicals and dyestuffs costing $4,266,773 were used in cotton mills. The cost of these chemicals and dyestuffs, according to the returns of establishments dyeing, printing, and bleaching cotton goods, is 26.61 per cent of the value added by these processes, which would make the value of the work done $16,034,472. In silk mills the chemicals and dyestuffs cost 37.21 per cent of the value added by their use. The cost of these materials is $558,532, and the value of the work done, which means the cost of the dyestuffs plus the value added by their use, is $1,501,027. The value of this work done in mills engaged in textile manufactures is therefore approximately as follows: cotton, $16,034,472; woolen, $17,837,659; silk, $1,501,027; total, $35,373,158. Adding this total to the value of work done in establishments devoted exclusively to dyeing and finishing textiles, the gross value added by dyeing, bleaching, and printing is shown to be $64,273,718. Table 1 shows by states, with totals for the United States, the number of establishments, amount of capital, miscellaneous expenses, number of employes by classes and their wages, power, cost of materials used, total value of work done, and classes of goods operated upon. Table 1.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, IN THE AGGREGATE, SHOWING CAPITAL INVESTED, MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES, EMPLOYES, WAGES, POWER, MATERIALS, AND WORK DONE. The United States Connecticut Illinois Massachusetts New Jersey New Tort Pennsylvania Khode Island All other states (a) . . Number of establish- ments. Value of hired property. $1, 819, 779 13, 000 139, 500 306, 300 610, 860 247, 626 578, 788 17, 700 Direct investment. Aggregate. $38, 450, 800 775, 352 26, 600 11, 996, 154 5, 197, 403 4, 963, 095 6, 296, 340 5, 739, 692 3, 456, 264 Value of plant. Total. $19,879,039 621, 096 20, 500 5, 187, 613 2, 996, 209 2, 225, 566 3, 791, 968 3, 763, 321 1, 272, 866 $2, 679, 114 $7, 596, 641 Machinery, tools, an(t implements. $9, 703, 284 58, 700 3,500 673, 931 333, 936 366,300 598,647 432,600 111, 500 331, 184 6,000 2. 010, 687 879, 577 721, 700 1,354,200 1, 832, 398 460, 896 231, 212 11,000 2, 502, 895 1, 782, 696 1, 137, 566 1, 839. 121 1, 498, 323 700, 471 1 Live assets. Total. $18, 671, 761 1.54. 266 6,000 6, 808. 641 2, 201, 194 2, 737, 529 2, 504, 372 1, 976, 371 2, 183, 398 Kaw materials. Stock in process and finished products on hand. $3,586,368 , $7,213,281 61,864 2,000 717, 428 442,430 1. 148, 419 I 372, 193 . 491.809 350,215 4.300 1,000 3, 773, 877 713, 993 1.358,789 918. 148 621, 048 822, 126 Cash, bills and accounts receivable, and all suu' dries not elsewhere reported. $7, 772, 122 88, 092 3,000 3, 317, 33ft 1, 044, 771 230, 321 1,214,031 863, 514 1,011,057 The United States . Connecticut Illinois Massachusetts . New Jersey New York Pennsylvania. . . Rhode Island . . . All other states. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. 77, 336 1,426 869, 669 752, 461 367, 935 419, 456 393, 549 249,249 Rent paid for Taxes. tenancy. $168, 646 $214, 464 7,618 920 61 23, 530 82,524 38, 267 23, 507 42, 270 22, 947 45, 343 21, 742 17, 206 27, 982 1,110 28, 083 Insurance. Repairs, ordinary, of build- ings and machinery $158, 996 2,443 120 32, 675 23, 471 28, 630 37, 357 24, 213 10, 087 $866, 211 35, 851 125 261, 799 145, 834 95; 045 134, 825 113,746 89, 486 Interest paid on cash used in the business. $697, 503 Sundries not elsewhere reported. 5,785 250, 013 136, 041 133, 667 30, 176 87, 761 54, 060 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, Aggregates. Average number. , 025, 261 25, 639 200 229, 128 385, 341 45, 376 160, 513 122, 641 66, 423 20,267 Total wages. $9,717,011 489 21 4.362 3,864 2,839 3,646 3,720 1,437 251, 362 10, 424 1, 909, 107 2, 057, 562 1,481,723 1, 803, 822 1, 593, 066 609, 966 Oflicers, Males above 16 years. 636 12 4 78 129 112 184 88 29 firm members, clerks. and Females above 15 years. 30 $805, 291 14, 250 2,532 99, 320 179, 425 137, 473 207, 257 130, 059 34, 975 a Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Delaware, 1 ; Iowa, 1; Maine, 1: Maryland, 2; Minnesota, 1; Missouri, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 2; West Virginia, 1. TEXTILES— DYEING AND FINISHING. 233 Table 1.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, IX THE AGGREGATE, ETC.— Continued. AVEHAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYIJS AND TOTAL WAGES— continued. Operatives and skillecl. (a) Males .^?" ! above ^^lll i Chil- 1 16 ^^5^" dren. y^^^- ' y^ars. I ThelTnited States. CoTiuccticut . Illinois Ne\v Jersey New York Pennsylvania... Tlhode Island . . . All other states. 14, 697 2,178 711 368 72 2 12 3 3,164 516 197 2,976 346 35 1,973 390 121 2,590 211 164 2,518 513 119 1,096 127 73 $8, 186, 947 223, 064 7,392 1, 668, 627 1,744,466 1, 250, 774 1, 446, 157 1, 308, 696 537, 771 Unskilled. Males above 16 years. I 1,813 22 1 363 359 201 374 -386 107 Fe- males, above 15 years. 13 Chil- dren. Wages. $724, 773 14,038 500 141, 160 133, 671 93, 476 150, 408 154, 300 37, 220 Steam. Boil- ers. En- gines. Horse power. 1,011 54,370 14 3 202 139 156 226 135 52 Water. Water wheels. Num ber. 13 725 3 57 132 11,533 199 7,005 186 12,545 259 8,663 182 10, 535 37 3,307 Horse power. 160 20 Turbine wheels. Num- ber. Horse power. 2,397 All other power. 335 225 258 805 Mo- tors. Ij Print- [ingnia- \ chinefl. Horse power.! 45.5 287 5.0 10.0 30.5 ! 77 56 70 17 44 19 TheUnlted States Connecticut Illinois Massachusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania Rhode Island All other states MATERIALS USED. Total cost. $12, 385, 220 300, 360 6,846 2, 801, 364 2, 711, 121 1,454,119 2. 395, 482 1, 819, 351 896, 577 Chemicals and dye- stufTs. Cost. $8, 407, 693 114, 126 4,270 1, 950, 550 2, 068, 192 889, 577 1, 808, 041 1, 064, 475 508, 462 Starch. Pounds. 556, 763 4, 538, 183 3, 184, 240 2, 242, 012 3, 517, 503 3, 138, 601 1, 472, 304 Cost. $660, 577 17, 815 125,288 109, 466 73, 836 107, 269 129,050 97, 853 Soap. Pounds. 6, 766, 696 32, 318 8,200 753, 860 1. 730, 738 995, 683 2, 160, 788 809,774 275, 335 Cost. 272 2,049 504 25, 599 83, 775 44,321 80, 793 32, 205 10, 026 Fuel. Rent of power and beat.; Cost. Cost. 58,711 1,072 404, 778 239, 329 216, 618 284, 516 351, 521 91, 273 6,413 2,500 4,775 6,250 1,200 2, 000 WORK DONE. All other materials. Total value of work done. Woolen yarn.-^ dyed. Cost. Pounds. Value. $1, 366, 092 $28, 900, 560 17, 999, 651 $751, 801 107, 659 715, 388 26, 741 1,000 1,031 206 288, 736 6,490,215 102, 400 9,800 207, 859 6, 183, 397 138, 926 6,043 224, 992 3, 636, 051 459, 700 69, 352 108, 583 5,240,761 617, 216, 404 660, 657 240,900 1 4, 743, 561 29, 190 2,543 186,963 1 1, 858, 446 52, 000 3,200 WOKK DONE— COntlDUCd. STATES. Worsted yarns dyed. Cotton yams dyed. Spun silk yams dyed. Thrown silk dyed. Pounds; Value. Wool stoc Pounds. ; 1,160,666 k dyed. Value. $48, 828 Cotton stock dyed. Pounds. Value. Pounds. 48. 762, 759 Value. Pounds. Value. 1119, 810 Pounds. Value. The United States. 9, 342, 157 $493, 974 ,$2, 036, 127 311, 830 3.322,017 $2, 346, 387 4, 676, 344 $204, 827 110, 000 81, 720 5, 172, 909 1,486,400 871, 100 33, 499, 727 6, 622, 037 1, 018, 860 11, 500 7,535 242, 356 27, 140 76, 368 1. 346, 942 291, 161 33, 125 15, 600 15, 600 165, 000 5 400 30, 000 500, 000 10, 615 62, 000 8, 498, 342 241, 000 200 3,000 42, 500 1,331 28, 162 398, 935 20, 030 16 10, 000 5,000 280, 000 75, 399 125. OOO 587, 267 90, 000 3. 000 5. 600 5, 770 4,500 25, 008 7,200 750 32, 000 848, 466 230,000 1, 525, 528 1, 875, 000 350 4 650 8,400 180, 200 111, 730 1,500 5,000 85, 520 23, 090 1,200 2, 866, 937 272, 815 166, 665 2,120,318 125. 571 84. 808 28, 079 7,200 Pennsylvania Rhode Island ...... All other slates 47, 446 112 000 52 ■ a Includes pleceworki^ra and their wages. b IncUules 401,000 iiuiiims woolens iiiid worsteds. 234 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 1.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, IN THE AGGREGATE, ETC.— Continued. WOEK DONE— continued. STATES. "Wool and worsted piece goods dyed. Cotton piece goods dyed. Cotton piece goods bleached . Cotton piece goods printed. Silk piece goods dyed. Mixed textile piece goods dyed. All other work done. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. The United States. 20, 779, 034 $652, 998 446,496,822 $5,671,488 454,357,758 $3,369,940 579, 667, 368 $10, 355, 032 7, 405, 399 $394,777 60,716,250 .$2,069,765 $384,806 22,398,076 340, 201 33, 126, 636 242, 504 4,358,016 68, 192 31, 991 Illinois 11, 000 61, 067 25, 000 Massachusetts 7, 685, 654 92, 853 113, 430, 837 87, 748, 170 30, 177, 807 93, 056, 440 50, 727, 100 48, 958, 392 1, 388, 927 976,956 399, 593 1, 359, 002 734, 522 472, 287 118, 891, 995 25, 980, 644 21, 316, 000 a8, 760, 980 192, 163, 959 54, 117, 544 610, 375 216, 365 195, 762 175, 000 1,440,021 459, 013 184, 198, 408 94, 862, 907 94, 622, 693 24,187,753 140,054,180 37, 383, 411 a, 997, 087 1,625,B17 1,508,307 268,206 2, 004, 890 882,733 60, 000 4, 705, 012 2, 516, 787 , 120,100 i 6,000 116, 378 269, 839 1,210 50, 000 19, 790, 000 14, 295, 150 24, 167, 900 2,409,200 4,000 5,000 1, 029, 400 691,015 267, 225 75, 805 1,320 1, 250, 150 10,793,880 1, 002, 550 46, 800 25,022 490, 509 34, 964 3,650 149, 840 Pennsylvania 86, 633 18, 325 All other states 3,500 1,350 950 a Dyed, bleached, and printed. Table 2 shows by states, with totals for the United States, the returns of establishments engaged in dyeing and finishing woolen and worsted, cotton, silk, and mixed goods and yarns, respectively. Table 2.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, BY CLASSES OF TEXTILES, SHOWING CAPITAL INVESTED, MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES, EMPLOYES, WAGES, POWER, MATERIALS; AND WORK DONE. WOOLEN AND WOESTBD GOODS AND TAENS. Number of establish ments. The United States - Massachusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania All other states (&) Value of hired property. $228, 700 5 24 i i 96, 000 113, .500 19, 200 Direct investment. $2, 170, 837 65, 500 475, 667 357, 550 1, 157, 706 14, 414 Miscellaneous expenses. $152, 628 3,171 39, 999 45, 507 60, 914 3,037 aveeage number op employes and total wages, (a) Average j^ jj number. 1, 543 $1, 046, 304 29 340 322 819 33 15, 550 297, 337 278, 008 430, 541 18, 868 Males above 16 years. 1,482 27 838 322 765 30 Females above 15 years. 58 Children. power. Printing machines. i Total. $1,238,507 > cost Of mategials used. STATES. steam. Horse power. Water. All other. Chemicals and dvestutt's. .$1, 009, 537 Fuel. Eent of power and heat. All other materials. $95, 475 Total value of work Horse power. Horse power. done. TTifi TTnltfifl States 3,794 103 41 $132,215 $1, 280 $2, 790, 405 154 1,183 1,065 1,357 35 18 85 11, 268 332, 039 290, 590 586, 637 17,973 5,875 277, 759 247, 360 463, 665 14, 878 2,700 30, 600 29, 880 66, 615 2,420 2,693 23,680 13, 350 55, 077 675 41, 252 20 21 771, 665 662, 425 1,280 1,261,163 53,900 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. b Includes states grouped, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not bo disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Rhode Island, 3; Missouri, 1. TEXTILES— DYEING AND FINISHING. 235 Table 2.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, BY CLASSES OF TEXTILES, ETC.— Continued. COTTON GOODS AND YARNS. The United States Connecticut Maseacbusetts New Jersey New York Pennsylvania Rhode Island All other states (h) Number of j estabUsb-i uients. { Value of hired property. $971. 646 4 24 133, 500 13 112, 500 16 60, 733 31 106, 125 17 560, 788 8 8,000 Direct investment. $29, 164, 503 771, 652 8, 868, 857 3, 178, 430 3, 959, 235 3, 786. 021 5, 161, 676 3, 438, 632 'Miscellanerus expenses. i2, 453, 329 76, 686 706, 604 575, 755 261, 064 226, 197 359, 964 247, 059 AVERAGE NOMBEB OF EMPLOTISS AND TOTAL WAGES. (O) Aggregates. Average number. 14, 491 483 3,279 2,079 3,958 1,814 3,460 1,418 Total wages. ;, 440, 408 248, 752 1,413,333 938, 166 874, 975 885, 952 1,480,681 598, 646 Males above 16 years. 11, 894 Females above 15 years. Children. 1,844 753 396 85 2 2,750 342 187 1,740 287 52 1,472 352 134 1,539 102 173 2,784 644 132 1,213 132 73 POWER. 1 1 Printing machines. 212 COST OF MATERIALS USED. STATES. Steam. Water. i All otlier.' Horse .; power. Total. Chemicals and dyestuffs. Fuel. Eent of power and heat. All other materials. $1, 870, 115 Total value of work done. Horse power. Horse power. The TJnited States 44, 708 2,863 44(1 765 270 225 70 35.5 6.0 $8, 363, 016 $5, 289, 783 $1, 187, 035 $16, 083 $19, 876, 364 715 10,454 4,846 10, 654 5,631 9,120 3,289 4 49 36 43 17 44 19 294, 120 2, 195, 959 1, 185, 616 953, 065 1, 230, 828 1, 617, 197 , 886, 241 109, 126 1,573,749 762,476 489, 263 927, 971 937, 826 499, 372 68, 111 305, 671 126, 147 168,483 134, 973 303, 223 90, 427 126, 883 310, 126 305, 093 295, 009 163, 614 374, 948 294, 442 699, 788 6,413 1,900 300 4,270 1,200 2,000 6, 264, 241 New Jersey 2, 878, Olfl Kew York 2, 262. 412 2, 621, 107 1 288 805 ' 30.6 4, 320, 707 1.830,093 SILK GOODS AND TARNS. Number of establish ments. The United States . New Jersey New York All other states (&) Value of hired property. $487, 933 Direct investment. $1, 880, 224 24 21 193,800 285, 133 9, 000 1.313,306 466, 505 100, 413 Miscellaneous expenses, $177,933 123,607 47. 706 6,620 The TFnitetl States New Jersey New York All other states "Water. ]A11 other. ' Printing machines. Horse power. Horse power. 1,513 777 545 191 21 HI . . J 10. 1 ' ; Total. fl, 270. 926 1 . 127, 346 111,129 38, 451 AVERAGE NUMBER OF EMPLOYES AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) Aggregates. Average number. 1, 74,-. Total wages. $1,013,326 1.292 391 62 74!, 059 230, 034 30, 232 Males above 16 years. 1,639 Females above 15 years. Children. 1.233 344 62 COST OF M.ATERIALS USED. Chemicals and dyestufl's. .$1, 092. 192 Fuel. Kent of power and heat. $83,475 $4,675 987. 957 70. 582 . 600 75.012 9.498 4,075 29.223 3,395 All other materials. $96, 584 68, 207 22,544 6,833 1 Total value of work done. $2. 935, 101 ,333,716 478. 637 122, 748 a Includes ofBeers, firm members, and clerks. b Includes states nrouped, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishmeuts are distributed as follows: Cotton— Delaware, 1; Iowa, 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 1; West Virginia, 1. Silk -Pennsylvania, 5; Illinois, 1: Connecticut,l. 236 MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES. Table 2.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES, BY CLASSES OF TEXTILES, ETC.—Continued. MIXED GOODS AND YARNS. The United States. MassajChusetts - . New York Pennsylvania . . . All other states . CAPITAL. Number 1 : of I establish-i ments. Value of hired property. The United States Massachusetts New York Pennsylvania All other states (6) 44 , $131,500 6,000 85, 000 25, 000 15,500 Direct investment. $5, 335, 236 3, 061, 797 179, 805 1, 260, 900 832, 734 Miscellaneous expenses. $347, 191 159, 894 13, 658 126, 700 46, 939 AVEKAGE NUJIBEE OF EMPLOYfis AND TOTAL WAGES, (a) Aggregates. Average number. 2,488 1.044 168 862 414 Total wages. $1, 216, 974 480, 224 98, 706 446, 425 191, 619 Males above 16 years. 2,131 828 148 794 361 Females above 15 years. 199 20 64 41 Children. 33 17 i 12 Steam. Water. Horse i Horse power. I power. 4,355 925 281 1,529 1,620 All other. Horse power. Printing machines. COST OF MATERIALS USED. Total. $1, 506, 771 594, 137 99, 345 547, 406 265, 883 Chemicals and dyestuffs. $1, 016, 181 370, 926 77, 942 393, 182 174. 131 Fuel. $246, 12? 96, 407 8,757 80, 343 59, 616 Rent of power and ' heat. $1. 100 400 700 All other materials. $244, 367 126,804 12,246 73, 181 32, 136 Total value of work done. $3, 298, 690 1, 190, 722 232, 577 1,255,343 620, 048 a Includes officers, firm members, and clerks. b Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Illinois, 2: Maryland,!; Minnesota,!; Xew Jersey, 1 ; Ohio, 1; Rhode Island, 2.