'\ I^JQS^ The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924085804619 ,# t I ' " Better is a dinner of herbs where love is, than a stalled ox and hatred therewith." % yJ Twentieth Century Cook Book CONTAINING ALL THE LATEST APPROVED RECIPES 11^' EVERY DEPARTMENT OF COOKING ; INSTRUCTIONS FOR SELECTING MEATS AND CARVING; DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. TO WHICH IS ADDED HYGIENIC AND SCIENTIFIC COOKING RULES FOR DINNER GIVING; USE OF THE CHAFING DISH ; MENU CARDS FOR ALL SPECIAL OCCASIOfSS; COOKING FOR INVALIDS; VALUABLE HINTS FOF^ ECONOMICAL HOUSEKEEPING, ETC. INCLUDING 2100 FAMOUS RECIPES USED BY THE LEADING CHEFS OF THE BEST HOTELS IN THE UNITED STATES THE WHOLE FORMING A STANDARD AUTHORITY ON THE CULINARY ART COMPILED BY MAUD C. COOKE Author of "Social Etiquette," Etc., Etc. Superbly Embellished with Engravings in Colors and Phototype Illustrations ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONQRE86, IN THE YEAR 10OB, B^ . HORACE C. FRY tN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CONGRESS, AT WASHINQTO'V . □. C. U. «. «. INTRODUCTION. /"\^ making many books there is no end." This we are told by the I I wisest of men, and the phrase might well be quoted with reference Vy to cook books. Yet, in itself, is this fact a token that there is a recognized need of, and a reaching out for, the coming cook book ; the Scientific and Hygienic Treatise on Cookery that shall be an aid to health and happiness in each household where its influence is felt, and thus it comes to pass that there is always a market for the new cook book. In pursuance of this idea, the pages of this book have catered not sim- ply to the wants of the rich, who are usually provided with high-price cAe/i to plan their daily menu, but have sought to prove a trusty guide, also, to that great body of people who must clothe, feed and house their families oa a very moderate stipend. Assistance and advice have been given to the housewife whose daily allowance is less than one dollar, as well as luxurious suggestions and elaborate menus for the wealthy. Especial care has been taken ih selecting recipes for soups, sauces, and little luxuries, on incomes somewhat less than a millionaire's. A depart- ment has been given to the uses of " The Chafing Dish," that useful adjunct to the lunch table, the small evening gathering, or the light housekeep^'ag, so prevalent in city apartments. "Invalid Cookery," " Market! -j," " Carving," "Bills of Fare," " Hygienic Cookery," and all departments of household economy, have received their due share of attention. The departments on "Salads," "' Fruit Salads," and "Left-Overs " of all descriptions are especially full. • We are all greatly dependent upon the state of our digestion. Napoleon could not rise superior to an illy-cooked dinner. Hence his Waterloo. The History of the French Revolution rose and fell with the state of Carlyle's dys- pepsia, and many a tragic episode in family life is superinduced by the baleful influence of a tortured stomach. Mighty is the hand that holds the ballot- box, but mightier is the hand that wields to advantage the pepper-box, the salt-spoon, and the sugar-shaker. Wise is the brain that decides upon the fitness or the unfitness of the laws that govern our land, but mightier is tiie 6 6 INTRODUCTION. power behind Ihe throne j the brain that decides upon the quantity ana the quality of the food that goes to feed the strength of the law-makers. To these housekeepers, these home-builders, it is that such books as this are dedicated, and among these it is that they find their welcome. Not sought in the honie where there is no cook book, for there their value is un- known; but in the home where there are many such guides it is that each new arrival comes as a herald of something better and more helpful in the ' realm of cookery. And meet it is that all possible help be given to those- ■who feed our bodies, for thereby they strengthen and uplift our souls also. Says Haryot Holt Cahoon : "Ask a woman what cooking means. It means the patience of Job, and the persistence of the Pilgrim Fathers. It means the endurance, the Iqng-suffering, and the martyrdom of Joan of Arc. It means the steaming, and the stewing, and the baking, and the broiling, thrice daily, springs, summers, autumns, and winters, year after year, de- cade following decade. It means perspiration, and desperation, and resig- nation. It means a crown and a harp, and a clear title to an estate in hea- ven. From her judgment and reason the cook must evolve triumphs that depend upon salt and pepper, and sugar and herbs. She must know how soon and how long, and how much and how often. She must know quality and quantity and cost. She must serve the butcher, and the baker, and the candlestick-maker. Then she must rise above it all and be a lady — a iloaf- giver." ' ' '' Ruskin says : " Cookery means the knowledge of Medea, and of Circe, and of Calypso, and of Helen, and of Rebekah, and of the Queen of Sheba. It means the knowledge of all herbs and fruits, and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in fields and groves, and savory in meats. It means carefulness and inven^veness, and watchfulness and willingness, and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your great-grand- mothers, and the science of modern chemists; it means much tasting and no wasting ; it means English thoroughness, and French art, and Arabian hospitality ; and it means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and always, 'ladies,' ' loaf-givers.* " To be able to cope with difSculties, should the necessity arise, is the duty of most women. Nothing will enable them to do so more certainly than a thorongK knowledge of the gentral principles and methods, and the carrying out of these in the preparation of the homeliest meal. CONTENTS. Faqb BEEF 172 BILLS OF FARE 583 BISCUIT 304 BLANC MANGE 417 BUNS . . . 307 BREAD 294 CAKES 364 CANDIES ■ 541 CANNED FRUITS 479 CARVING 17 CATSUP AND SPICED FRUITS 322 CHAFING DISH COOKERY 333 CHEESE DISHES 344 CHICKEN 135 CLAMS ■....,. 92 COOKIES 398 X:OOKING FOR INVALIDS 554 CORN CAKES .312 CRABS 97 CRACKERS 318 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES 419 CROQUETTES 261 CRULLERS .' 395 CUSTARDS 415 DESSERTS 424 DOUGHNUTS 395 DUCKS 146 DUMPLINGS . . . . , , .338 EGGS .218 ENTREES , 349 FISH ■ 103 FRITTERS 268 FROGS' LEGS 155 FRUIT SALADS 440 GAME . 149 GEESE 144 GEMS 308 GINGERBREADS ". 401 GRIDDLE CAKES . , 314 T 8 CONTENTS. \ PaOB HARE IM HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC .V 204 ICES AND ICE CREAM 507 JELLIES 465 KIDNEYS 184 LOBSTERS ^ . 86 MEATS 161 MUFFINS 309 mutton; 190' OYSTERS 68 PARTRIDGES. 165 PICKLES -. ... 492 PIES AND PASTRY 353 PIGEONS 156 POISONS AND ANTIDOTES 574 PORK 195 PRAIRIE CHICKEN 169 PRESERVES AND JAMS 442 PUDDINGS . . ; 405 QUAIL . ...... 167 RABBITS 152 REMEDIAL FOODS 582 ROLLS 305 RUSKS 307 SALADS .^. 277 SALLY LUNN ^ 312 SAUCES AND GRAVIES 319 SCALLOPS ^ 100 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY 576 SHORTCAKE - 341 SOUPS, HOW PREPARED . , , . 81 SQUIRRELS 154 TABLE DRINKS 524 TERRAPIN .101 TOASTS 830 TRIPE 182 TURKEY : 130 TURTLE ; . . 102 VEAL 184- VEGETABLES 231 VENISON • 151 WAFFLES SIO WOODCOCK V 158 TOSRVE Carving is really an art, and should be cul- tivated as one, for much of the success of a good dinner depends upon it, but whether the bad carving so often met with is really due, as is sometimes said, to stupidity, awkwardness, ot laziness, is an open question. Practice has much to do with it, and a good knife much more. The carving- knife should be very sharp, and kept for this use alone. A fine steel knife , should never come in contact with intense heat. Table carving-^knives should never be used around the kitchen range, or for cutting bread, meats, or vegetables. The diph upon which the meat or fowl is served should be of sufficient size to allow room for the carved slices before serving. If this is not the case, another dish should be provided for their reception. When carving, a chair should be used slightly higher than the ordinary dining-chair, as this gives a better purchase for ui^ing th* carving-knife and fork, and is more graceful thkn standing, which is often resorted to. Skill is the chief requisite of carving, not strength. The platter containing the meat should be placed opposite, and sufficiently near the carver to give perfect command over the article to be carved. Cut. the meat in thin slices, laying them on one side of the platter, then afterward place the desired amount on each guest's plate, to be passed in turn by the servant. Gravies or sauces should be sent to-the table very hot. Plates also should be thorgughly heated, as otherwise the eatables will soon get cold and the dinner will be spoiled. When serving gravies, be careful to place it by the side of '-and not over the meat. Then the guest can use much, or little, as preferred. It is not possible to carve meat in anyway-ivithout the gravy escaping, but avoid hacking and chopping, which results in a dish full of gravyj In serving any fowl or meat that is accompanied by stuffing or dressing, guests should be asked if a portion is desired, as there are some to whom the flavor is disagreeable. Do not heap plates too full, and keep each article separate, thus insuring a good appearance. a 17 18 HOW TO CARVE. Sirloin of Beef. — ^A sirloin should be cut with one good, firm stroke, fron^ end to end of the joint, at the upper portion, niakitig the cut very clean and even. Then disengage it from the bone by a horizontal cut exactly to the bone, using the tip of the knife. Every slice should be clean and even, and the sirloin should cut fairly to the very end. Many persons cut the under side whilst hot, not reck- ojjing it so good cold ; but this is a matter of taste, and so is the mode of carving it' The best way is first of all to remove the fat b, which chops up well to make puddings, if not eaten at table. Then the under part can be- cut, as al- ready described, from end to end, or downwards, as shown by the marks at c. The latter is the more general method, and the slices should be rather thick," those from the top should be thin, If only the fillet is eaten while hot, c Sirloin of Beef. the top of the joint should be glazed, and the dish garnished with fresh, parsley and scraped horses radish; it will then furnish a most appetizing cold dish. Bibs of Beef. — To carve ribs of beef, a sharp knife is necessary, and if it is run along between the meat and the bones, the carving will be more cleanly and quickly done. The slices should be thin, and cut from A to B, as shown in the illus- tration. Unless this is well- carved, it is a wasteful joint,, and it is hiore economical to cut the end off to a greater extent than is usually done, or it becomes dry and over- done by the time the thick part is cooked. This can be boiled fresh, or may be salted sepa- rately, or with another lean piece of meat, and if the two are cooked and eaten together a very good dish for breakfast may be had at little cost and trouble. If, however, the butcher is requested, RibB of Beef. HOW TO CARVE. 19 Ox Tougrue. he will cut Iflie rib short before sending it home, but a trifle more per pound must be paid for it if tk? thin end is not taken. {See dot- ted line in the illustration. It indicates the portion which may advantageously be removed.) Ox Tonirie.-7-The illustration shows an ox tongue as generally served, garnished plainly with a paper frill, some parsley or water- cress, and some scraped horse-radish, but the latter may be dispensed with. Perhaps the most common way of carving is to make a cut near the centre of the tongue, carrying the knife only about three- fourths down, and then taking slices from both sides until the root and tip are reached. This is wasteful — the fat left on the dish becomes discol- ored by the time the tongue is con- sumed; and a more economical way is to cut the tongue right down through the middle, then take slices thinly from both sides. As has been already said, superfluous fat should be cut off before it is dished ; then the probability is that not more than will be eaten is left on. When the meal is over, the two parts should be pushed together, to prevent dryness. Any fat which may be left, so long as it is sweet, will come in useful for mixing with lean beef, or other meat for potting. - ^ Breast of Veal. — ^This rightly consists of two parts, the best end, and the brisket end; it may be bougjht whole, or in parts; the brisket end being a little cheaper. In carving* it much depends upon the method of jointing adopted by the butcher. If the ribs have been broken across, long slices may be cut as shown in the diagram from A to B ; or the rib can be cut right ^ through from c to d, then divided at the broken bone A B. If the rib bones have not been broken, the ribs have to be served whole ; the pieces are then somewhat awkward-looking on the plate. The gristly portion may be cut as shown and in a well-cooked breast this is very inviting and tender. Breast of Veal. .n H H, 20 HOW TO CARVE. Neck of Veal. — rThe best end of a neck of veal makes a. very good roasting piece ; it, however, is quite difficult to carve, unless it is done properly. To attempt to carve each chpp and serve it, would cause you to place too large a piece upon the plate of a person you intend to serve. The correct way, therefore, to carve this roast is to cut diagonally from figure 1 to 2, and help in slices Neok of Veal. of moderate thickness ; then it may be cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones. Fillet of Veal.— ^A sharp knife is required ; it should be thin, and drawn lightly across the meat, without too much pressure. It should follow the line A, B, c, D, and when once the meat has become flat at the top, it can be kept even by exercising a little care. A portion of stuffing should be given with each help, and as some usually falls into the dish at starting this should be kept in reserve for the time when there is less ; that is, when the lower part of the joint is reached. The ruiet of VeaL outside brown slice is by many considered the best, and the_ honored guest, should be asked if he prefers it. Fillet of veal has a tendency to crumble, therefore an ordinary knife, especially if blunt, will not answer in carving it. Knuckle of Veal.* — ^This is often boiled, and is delicate, though rather insipid, unless flavor is imparted by the addition of vegetables. The usual time for cooking is not long enough for this, owing to its gelatinous nature. When boiled, long, slow cooking, and careful skimmipg are important. A stewed knuckle is excellent. A roasted knuckle is not to be recommended, unless the fleshy portion only is cooked, the knuckle-bone* being used for stock, for which it;is very useful, and should be used while quite fresh. The illustration shows the method of carving, which is very simple, KnuoMe of Veal. HOW TO CARVE. 21 slices being cut from a to b. The thick part is the best; the fat is very delicious; but by some the tendons about the knuckle are preferred. Calf's Head. — To carve the head, commence with long slices, shown by the dotted lines A to b. With each of these, serve a cut of what is called the throat sweetbread ; this lies at the fleshy part of the neck end. Cut also some slices from c to d ; they are very gelatinous and delicate ; a small portion should be served to fcach person. The tongue and brains are, as a "rule, put upon a separate dish ; thin slices of the tongue should be given to each, together with a spoonful of the brains. The flesh round the eye is considered the tit-bit by some people, and deep in the sockets are other choicff bits. To remove these, make a circular cut in the part marked e. First put the knife in slanting at f, inserting the point at the dotted line, and driving it into the centre under the eye ; then turn the hand round, keeping the circle of the dotted line with the blade of the knife, the point still in the centre. The eye will come out entire, cone- shaped at the under part, when the circle is completed by the knife. °^^'« ^«^^- The lower jaw must next be removed, beginning at g; and to do this properly the dish must be turned. The palate is also considered a dainty, and a little of it should always be offered to each guest. Some people find it easier to carve a calf's head if divided, and each half laid flat on a dish. Haunch of Mutton.— Unless this joint has been well hung it will be tough and insipid. A haunch of good mutton, in fine, clear, frosty weather, may be kept a month; but in damp weather it will require much attention on the part of the cook to keep it from getting tainted in half the time. The great point is to keep it dry, by dusting it first with flour, which should be rubbed off several times with a dry cloth, and again renewed. When to be cooked, skin the loin, and wipe diy ; then cover with white paper, or make a common paste of flour-and-water for the joint. Put it on the spit, or hang before a 22 HOW ro CARVE. good, even, vigorous fire for the first half hour, basting it constantly with good meat-dripping. When within half an hour of being done, take off the paper, and brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with flour, and baste copiously with butter, but first pour the dripping from the pan ; sprinkle with a little salt, and send it to table finely frothed. Make a gravy in the pan with what has dripped from the meat and a little boiling broth drawn from mutton trimmings ; salt and pepper. Time, from twelve to fifteen minutes per pound ; well done, eighteen minutes. To' carve this, make a cut from a to B ; then take off the slices as shown from c to d. A frill put on the knuckle improves the appearance, and, if liked, the meat can be glazed. Another way. — After taking off the skin and as much fat as may be neces- sary, the skin may be put back until I the time for browning and frothing the m'eat. If the mutton is lean, and it is not thought nepessary to take off any fat from the top, simply baste the meat, and cook it minus paper or paste ; but it will not generally be near so full of flavor. If this method is followed, the basting must be almost incessant. _ Fore-quarter of Lamb. — To carve, separate the shoulder ; see A A A in the diagram. This is then transferred to another hot dish, some lemon juice being squeezed over the breast, the lemon first dipped in the cayenne. Theft separate the^ ribs and brisket, and cut the ribs through ; see c B. The guests should be asked, if they prefer ribs or brisket. 'The shoulder may not be required at all while hot, the other parts being usually first chosen, of bacon over the thick part of the lamb, and brush the thin part with clarified butter before roasting. Before dishing, take the bacon off and dredge with crumbs; let them thrown well, then serve. Haunch of Mutton. Fore-quarter of Lamb. Another way.-^F\it slices HOW TO CARVE. 23 Saddle of Mutton. Saddle of Mutton. — This is a very popular roast. A saddle of mutton, if hung in a cool airy place, will improve with keeping from one to three weeks, according to the weather ; but as this part of the sheep IS the most tender and delicate, it may, if liked, be roasted in from four to five days. If not for a large family, get the joint well trimmed ; the flaps, tail and chump end may be cut away, which will considerably lessen the weight, and be found more advantageous to the pur- chaser, even at a higher price per pound, or the flap will make a plain stew. In its entire state it is considered an expensive joint, consequently people of moderate means and family, unless so accommo- dated by the butcher, can seldom order it. All superfluous fat must, in any case, be removed, and the joint covered with a greased paper. Roast as directed for a loin of mutton. It should be a nice brown when done, but not too dark. About twenty minutes per pound will be required. Laver is a good accompaniment to roast mutton. Good gravy and. hot jelly must not be ottiitted. The an- nexed diagram shows the mode of carving, which is quite simple, straight slices being cut from A to B. Relays of hot plates and gravy should be in readiness, and very little gravy should be put upon the dish. A hot-water dish, as used for venison, is the best to serve mutton on. Shoulder, Boned and Boiled. — In the diagram is shown a shoulder of mutton (lanib or veal) as it will appear when the bones (knuckle excepted) are removed. It may be stuffed, and then roasted, or cooked as desired. It is a nice-look- ing dish, and easy to carve. We wish, too, to call attention to the method of tying it, as well as to the joint itself, as it illustrates clearly the way of binding anything of a similar kind, and can be more easily followed than any written description. CalPs head, ox check and galantines of all sorts should be tied thus with tape, not string. 24 HOW TO Carve. As to the boning, we can only repeat our advice to keep the knife close to the bone, and avoid piercing the outer flesh. The accom- plished boner may like to bone the knuckle also, then draw the meat inside, and so give the joint a still more compact appearance. Shoulder, to Carve. — Simple as is the carving of this to the experienced hand, jt is a joint whjch some find rather difficult to serve evenly and fairly. In the illustration cuts are made as shown frqm A to b. The joint will then open, and leave a triangular space ; slices must then be removed from A to b and c to B until the bone is reached : then slices Shoulder Of Mutton. .^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^ under-side, by turning the shoulder over, and cutting horizontally, like a round of beef lioiu of Mutton. — This is generally served in chops, though riot always, and must be carefully jointed, or the carver will have.>to turn the knife about until the place is found for the division of the bone's ; this produces a raggy appearance. The kidney and kidney-fat are great delicacies, and a portion should be put upon each plate. If the loin is large, one chop may- make two small helps, by putting the under-cut with the end, and serving the bone and upper part together. The most economical way of serving this is to bone it, then roll and carve it like a fillet, which see. A saddle of mutton or double loin is twcTloins cut o^ before the carcass is split open down the back. French chops are a small rib chop; the end of the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away from the thin end, leaving the round piece of meat attached to the larger end, which leaves the small rib-bone bare. Very tender and sweet. Mutton is prime when cut from a carcass which has been fed out-of-doors, and allowed to run upon the hillside ; they are best when about three years old. The fe,t will then be abundant, white and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of a clear red color. Leg of Mutton.— In carving a leg, turn the knuckle to the left, plant the fork firmly on the side of the joint, and begin by cutting across near the middle to the bone in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be taken from either side. HOW t6 carve. 25 Some very good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, and the fat on this ridge is very much liked by many. The cramp- bone is a delicacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and running the knife under it in^a semi- circular direction to 3. The nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, bui the under-side contains the most finely grained meat, from which slices may be cut lengthwise. Lesr o' Mutton. Another way. — ^A leg of mutton must be placed with the knuckle toward the left hand ; you then cut into the side farthest from you toward the bone, b to c, helping thin slices from the right and thick jdices toward the knuckle. The little tuft of fat near the thick end is a delicacy and must be divided among your guests. The ordinary method consists in cutting straight across, like a leg of pork. The slice containing the kernel, and piece of fat called the Pope's eye, is considered the best. To carve this haunch-fashion the slices must be cut parallel with the bone. A nice leg of mutton, hung as long as consistent with weather, ^®Sf °^ Mutton, and served with really good gravy, currant jelly, well-cooked vegetables and hot plates, will, if carved thus, compare very favorably with the more aristocratic haunch. More than one writer asserts that if carved out of sight of the guests, not more than one in twenty would know the one from the other. Whether this be true or not, the experiment is certainly worth a trial, particularly as the cost is not increased. Sucking Pigr.— A sucking pig is usually sent to table in two halves, back to back on the dish ; a part of the head, and one ear, being placed at each end. The carver separates the shoulder, then the leg, from each half These joints are cut in the ordinary way, and the ribs are cut straight down. As in carving generally, the various tastes of those present should be ascertained ; for while the pig is altogether very delicious, most people have a decided prefer-^, «nce for some particular part of it. 26 HOW TO CARVE. Ham. The shoulders are often left untouched. They are excellent when re-heated by grilling or broiling. They may be whole or cut up. In either case, season them, dip into melted butter, then into fine crumbs. If whole, see that it is heated through withqut becoming too brown ; frequent turning, and a sprinkling of butter now and then are necessary. Serve any sharp sauce with this dish. Ham. — This is carved easily, and requires no great skill. The slices should be cut thin, from 1 to 2 and from 4 to 5, as shown in the accom- panying diagram. Hauncb of Venison. — To carve this is not a very difficult task. In carving a haunch of venison, first cut it across down to the bone in the line, a b ; then turn the dish with the knuckle furthest from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as deep as you can in the direction shown by the dotted lines, A to c ; you may take out as many slices as you please on the right and left. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. It is held by genuine epicures that some parts of the haunch are better flavored than others, but it is doubtful whether ordinary palates will detect any difference. Slices of veni- son should not be cut thick, and plenty of gravy should be given with them. The fat is very apt to get cool soon, and become hard and disagreeable to the palate. For this reason, very quick carving is absolutely necessary for this joint. The long slices contain most fat at the loin end. The outside knots of brown fat are much esteemed by most people. It should be remem- bered in carving, that to please one's guests in the matter of serving the various parts of a joint, is as much the duty of the carver as it is to cut the meat to the best advantage ; and this may be done without disfiguring the joint, by the exercise of forethought in requesting those present to express their preference. Haunch of Venison. HOW TO CARVE. 2n Boast Hare. Hare, Boasted. — Insert the point of the knife under the -shoul- der, and cut from that down to the rump, along the sides of the back- bone. The slices should be moderately thick. Another way of carving hare is to remove the shoulders and legs, and cut the back crosswise into four or five pieces. This, however, can only be done when the hare is very young, or when it has been boned. To sepa- rate the leg, put the knife between the leg and the back^ and give it a little turn inwards at the joint, which you must try to hit and not to break by force. The shoulders must be taken off by cutting in ^ circular line round them. These last are known as the sportsman's pieces; some prefer them, but sometimes they are thought little of, and are served only when the other por- tions of the hare are exhausted. The most delicate part is the back ; after that come the thighs. When every one is helped, take off the head. The upper and lower jaw should be divided by inserting the knife between them ; this will enable you to lay the upper part of the head conveniently on the dish. . That being done, cut it in two. The ears and brains are highly prized by connoisseurs. With each slice of hare some of the stuffing should be served, and some of the gravy should accompany it. A bit of bacon must be put on each plate, and a forcemeat ball sent to table with it. Fowl, Boasted. — Insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone ; then turn the leg back with the fork, and, if the bird is not old, the joint will give way. The wing is next to be broken off, and this is done in the direction of A to B, only dividing the joint, with , the knife. The forequarters having been removed in this way, take off the merry-thought at d, and the neck- -Roaat FowJ. bones ; these last are to be removed by putting the knife in at c, and pressing it, when they will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. Next separate the breast from the body of the fowl, by cutting 28 HOW TO CARVE. through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Turn the fowl now back upwards; put the knife into the bone mid- way between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn the rump from you, and take off very neatly the two side bones, which completes the operation. The breast and wings are considered the best parts of a roast fowl, being very tender, but in young birds the legs are the most juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off the breast, just as is done when carving a turkey. Give part of the liver with each wing, and some stuffing to all, unless objected to. FoTTl, Boiled. — ^This is cut up in a similar manner to roast fowl. Care should be taken to cut plenty of the breast meat off with the wings; the knife should be drawn, and much downward pressure avoided; as the flesh is apt to crumble. Sometimes the legs are taken off before the wings. A very large, fowl should be served like a turkey, which see. If little sausages be put about the dish, serve one with each portion of fowl. >^ ■Partridges. — The method depends upon the quantity of birds at the disposal of the carver, and the nature of the meah If there is enough, and the birds are small, they should be cut right through, and half a bird given to each, supposing the Occasion to be a bachelors' supper or a game dinner. When the party is a large one, and small helpings only are possible, carve like a fowl, but give some breast meat with each portion, the breast being so highly and deservedly esteemed. Grouse. — If there be ample for all, a grouse may be cut in halves by putting the point of the knife downwards, near the leg end of the breast, and splitting the breastbone in two along the keel, and cutting through the back. If small portions only are to be served, carve like a fowl, or take some slices from the breast, cutting well up to the wing, then take off the leg and wing. Try to serve a portion of the back with each piece, the back pairt being so much esteemed by all lovers of game. Turkey. — ^A turkey having been relieved from strings and skewers used in trussing, should be placed on the table with the neck at the carver's right hand. An expert carver places the fork in the turkey, and does not remove it until the whole is divided. First insert the fork firmly in the lower part of the breast just forward of fig. 2, then HOW TO CARVE. :s9 sewer the legs and wings on both sides, cutting through the joint next to the body, letting these ^arts lie on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast, from 2 ' - to 3, as many even slices of the _fc_«.*3^''^r^:::^v^^^ white meat as may be desired, plac- ^^>j^yi?^q^itcg^- - — -27 J gfc^ ing the pieces neatly on one side of (MfljC ^'^g''y«gKi the platter. Now unjoint the legs ("" ^^LJSbii^ ^•■" iC ifii ^BP ^ and wings at the middle joint. \, ^^^^^mSaBBrifWW^^ ^^ Make an opening into the cavity of """"TTW *^ the turkey for dipping out the inside Turkey, dressing, by cutting a piece from the rear part 1, 1, called the apron. Consult the tastes of the guests as to which part is preferred; if n6. choice is expressed, serve a portion o/ both light and dark mfeat. One of the most delicate parts of the turkey are two little muscles lying-^in dish-like cavities on each side of the back, a little behind the leg attachments; the next most delicate meat fills the cavities in the neck-bone, and, next to this, that on the second joints. The lower part of the leg (or drumstick, as it is, called) is rarely ever help^ to any one, being hard and tough. Duck. — In carving a duck, due regard must be had to its size and condition; a large, fat duck may be cut up like a goose, viz., in thin slices from the breast, then the wings are removed; the carver should, however, leave part of the si^ of the breast attached to each wing. Next the legs are cut off, then the neck-bone. The breast- bone is separated by cutting through the sides, and the back-bone, is divided in two by cutting downwards. But in the case of a poor, skinny duck, to attempt to cut slices from the breast is to betray its condition; then the wings should come off at starting. With each helping some stuffing should be served, the skin being first cut across between the legs, that it may be taken out with a spoon. Goose, Boaated. — Begin by turning the neck end of the goose towards you, a^d cutting the whole breast in long slices from one wing to another. {See the lines A, b.) To take off the leg, insert the fork in the small end of the bone, pressing it to the body. Put the knife in at A, turn the leg back, and if the bird be young, it will easily come away; if old, we will not answer for it. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the body; put the knife in at B, and divide the joint. When the 30 HOW TO CARVE. leg and wing are off one side, attack those on the other ; but, except when the company is vety large, it is seldom necessary to cut up the whole goose. The back and lower side bones, as well as the two side bones by the wing, may be cut off; but the best pieces of a goose are the breast, and the thighs after being separated froni the drumstick. Serve a little of the seasoning from the inside, by making a circular slice in the apron at c. Should there be no stuffing, a glass of port or Roast Goose. claret may be poured into the body of the goose, at the opening made in the apron by the carver. The unpleasantness arising from eating sage and onion stuffing used for roast goose may be in a great measure prevented by putting in the centre of the stuffing, before the bird is coojced, a lemon with the yellow rind taken off, and as much of the thick white skin left on as possible. Before the goose is sent to the table, the flap should be opened and the Iqmon taken out and at once thrown away. The lemon will have absorbed a great part of the impurities, which other- wise would have remained in the stuffing. Care should be taken not to cut the lemon so that the juice could escape. Pigeons, Trussed. — Pigeons need to be very carefully plucked and cleaned, and they should, if possible, be drawn as soon as they are killed. To truss for roasting :^- Cut off the head and neck, cut l|P^J^I off the toes at the first joint, and ■ ^ f wash the birds well. Dry them * ^ carefully, truss the wings over the back, and pass a skewer through the wings and body. The gizzard may be cleaned, and, put under one - of the wings. To truss for boiling :— Cut off the legs at the first joint, put the legs into the body, and skewer the pinions back. To carve a pigeon, c^t through the breast and back-bone; or make three portions of one bird, by taking the leg and wing from each side, the breast making a third serving, not to be despised if plump. Fieeons, Trussed. V -^ iR UllXIIUIIIh Soup-Stock. — Soup-stock in reality forms the basis of all soups and of the principal meat sauces and gravies. This k iiiiiiiii*^ consomme (clear soup) is made of the cheaper portions of fresh meat, together with the bones and trim- mings of roasts, which should always be sent home from the meat markets The bones should be cracked and are a great addition to the strength and thickness of the soup. Where they are used in abundance the stock will become a jelly when cold. The flesh of an old animal has more flavor than that ol a young one ; and brown meats contain more than white. Mutton is almost too strong, in flavor to be used alone for stock, and veal, while having much of the glutinous quality, furnishes little nutriment. Veal alone is useful in making the colorless stock needed as a foundation for the more elaborate soups. Calves' feet added to it will give an added consistency, without heightening the color. Where color is not an objection, the addition of remnants of roast meats to the stock-pot gives richness to the flavor. How Prepared. Stock is prepared by extracting the juices from meat by slow boiling. It is kept on hand, and by adding varied ingredients almost any variety ,of soup can be made. The cheaper portions of meat are used. The shin bone is generally chosen, but the neck contains more substance, and makes a stronger, more nutritious soup, than any other portion of the animal. Allow one quart of cold water to one pound of meat and bone, Put the meat over the fire in a covered kettle, and allow it to simmer slowly for four or five hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out thoroughly. Skim carefully from time to time, and never let it boil rapidly. If more water is needed, supply it with boiling water from the tea-kettle. If the meat 'is cut in pieces and the bones cracked, the juice? will be more thoroughly extracted, Never salt it until the meat is tender, as that hardens and toughens it, especially if the meat is to be eaten. „ ^ 32 SOUPS. Add a little salt and pepper and strain througli a sieve or napkin into a stone jar. The fat will rise in a cake to the top, when it can be removed. One nice way is to pour the stock into several small bowls. Then leave the cake of fat over the top of each One until needed for use. In this way the stock is kept fresher. Never use tin or iron vessels to put away soup stock, and a porcelain-lined kettle with a closely-fitting lid is preferable for all soups. More than one variety of meat adds to the flavor of the stock broth and should be used whenever practicable. Fats removed from the stock can be clarified for use by melting over the fire until all the water is extracted, when it may be poured into a jar for use. Stock like this can be kept many days in cold weather. To make soup of it, take out a portion of the clear jelly in 4he stock jar, add water, and whatever additional ingredients may be desired, such as barley, rice, macaroni or vegetables, as may be desired. Cook and thicken as desired; It is best to partly cook vegetables before adding the stock, as much boiling injures the flavor. Season to taste, boil a few moments and serve hot. Soup Stock. — II. Five pounds of beef, skin, or neck, or other cheap piece, or the same amount of knuckle of veal, or half beef and half veal. Add to this any bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meats, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 2 onions (stick several cloves in the onions), 1 turnip, 3 carrots, 1 head of celery, 2 tablespoons full of salt, 1 bunch of savory herbs (except sage), and 6 quarts of cold water. Simmer it gently for five or six hours. Skim carefully. Strain into a jar. When cold, remove the fat. This stock will keep for many days in cold weather. Salt and pepper it slightly. This cannot be made in a hurry. This stock is the basis for soups, and makes an excellent gravy for hash and meats. Add to this stock, vegetables, etc., as in the first recipe for soup stock. Always guard against having too much fat in the soup. Assuming care in the first stage, the ultimate success of a soup is certain if the seasonings are judiciously added. Soup Tureen. ■>v^ be Utitcben " We can live without books, we can Live witliout wining, But where is the man who can Live without dining?" •1 FIVK O'CLOCK TEA PREPARING FOR THE DINNER PARTY > H Pi < I < H < O o tn l-I the white of 1 raw egg. Form the paste into balls the size of a ' hazel nut, roll them in flour and fry to a light brown in hot butter and drop into the 'soup just before taking up.' Egg Balls. — II. Yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, tablespoonful of hot mashed potatoes, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolk of one raw egg. Rub all together. Flour the hands. Put in the soup before taking from the fire. Croutons (or Fried Crusts). — Cut bread in slices J inch thick, remoye the crust, butter the bread and cut in cubes f inch square, brown in oven, or fry in a little butter. Put them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over, or serve in a separate dish. ' Force-meat Balls. — Season 1 cup of any finely-chopped cooked meat with salt, pepper, 1 teaspoonful of lemon juice, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley and 2 or 3 drops of onion juice. Moisten the meat with the yOlk of an egg, roll in small balls, flour and fry in butter, or poach in salted boiling water. Put in soup just before serving, or use to garnish meats or fish. When fried they make a nice side dish. Force-meat Balls. — II. Chop any kind of cold meat, add a little butter, half as much fine bread crumbs, 1 raw egg, a pinch of summer savory or parsley. Season with pepper and salt, mix, form into balls, fry brown in hot fat. Put in the soup before serving, or use as above. One of the balls is better tested before all are made up. SOUPS. 37 Egg Dumplings. — One cup of flour, 1 egg, 4 tablespbonfuls of water. Mix the egg and water, add a pfnch of salt and stir in the salt, making a stiff dough Roll thin, cut with a cake cutter, drop into either gravy or soup. Keep the kettle covered and bbil ten minutes. Dumplings for Soup. — One-half pint of sweet milk, add ^ teaspoon of salt ; sift 2 teaspoons of baking powder with 1 quart of flour; stir enough into the milk to make as stiff as soft biscuit dough; do not mould, but when the soup boils well, dip the batter in spoon- fuls and keep boiling about 20 minutes ; very light and nice. Dumplings for Soup.-^II. One pint of milk; 2 eggs well-beaten, a pinch of salt, flour enough to make a batter that will drop from a spoon into the soup. Cook 10 minutes ; remove to dish, dot with butter and serve with the meat; They can be cooked in boiling water and served with cold meat. Potato Dumplings. — Sprinkle 2 or 3 potatoes with a little salt and plenty of flour; mash well, then drop in small bits in the boiling soup. Ifoodles.^One egg and a pinch of salt. Work in all the flour that this will take up. Roll thin as possible, and dry, then roll up and slice off in narrow strips. Drop in boiling soup and let boil fifteen minutes and serve. Chicken with noodles is good (see recipe). Soup Served Cold.-^— Make good, rich beef soup in the usual manner; let it cool and free it from fat. If it has formed a jelly, simply melt it over the stove without allowing it to get heated, and pour into bouillon cups half filled with cracked ice. Seasoned nicely, and eaten with wafers, this is simply delicious, and, with a salad of lettuce and wholesome Graham bread, is as healthful and good a funch as one can take in August. It is also a nice soup course for dinner. -Beef Soups. Bouillon. — Four pounds beef, chopped fine ; 4 quarts cold water. Put the beef on in cold water and let it take at least an hour to come to a boil. Cook very slowly, simmering at the side of the stove and never boiling hard. Keep this up four or five hours until this water is reduced to about 2 quarts. Let the meat get cold in the liquor. All this should be done the day before it is to be used. Next day remove the grease and strain the liquor through a thick cloth, squeez- 38 SOUPS, ing every drop of moisture from the shreds of beef. Put the liquor on the stove, bring to a boil and stir in the white and shell of an egg. Boil about 2 minutes and strain the soup once more. The result will be a clear amber-colored fluid. If de- sired, this may be darkened by the ad- dition of a little caramel. Of course thetouillon may be made weaker, but these directions will, if fol- lowed exactly, produce most satisfac- tory results. Two quarts will prove enough for sixteen or eighteen medium- sized tea cups, or for twenty after-dinner coffee cups. In summer it is sometimes iced. This, with fancy sandwiches, is often served at an afternoon tea. ■ To make quickly : Take 1 can of extract of beef. Mix with 3 quarts of boiling water and season to taste. . Beef Soup. — Six pounds of lean beef (shank mswers very well), have the bones well cracked and the marrow put in the soup with 6 quarts of water ; put the beef bones arid all into a close vessel with the water and let it heat gradually. Let it simmer six hours at least, only uncovering it once in a while to see if there is danger of the water getting too low; should this be the case replenish withboiling water. Set away until next morning. About an .hour before dinner, take out the beef, which you can use for mince-meat ; remove the cake of fat from the stock, set the soup on the fire and put in a little salt to -bring up the sciim; when this has been skimmed off put in your vegetables, 2 carrots, ,3 turnips, 1 pint of green or canned corn, 1 head of celery, 1 quart of tomatoes; these should be prepared for the soup by boiling them in barely enough water to cover them until they break to pieces, then put them with the water in which they were cooked into the soup, return the pot to the fire, and boil one- half hour ; season to taste with salt a d pepper. For a family soup „ many prefer to leave in the vegetables. Beef Soup. — II. Break the bone of a moderate-sized shin of beef ; cover with 5 or 6 quarts of cold water and add 1 tablespoonful of Salt; remove the scum and cover cloSely; let it simmer slowly and SOUPS. 33 steadily for 5 or .6 hours; take but the beef, and set the stock to cool after straining it; skim well the next day; add 1 carrot, 2 small onions; 2 small turnips, cut in pieces, % pint of tomatoes, a sprig of parsley, a celery top, 1 small red pepper, spices to taste, and for the thickening 1 tablespoon of butter and browned flour,, rubbed to- gether; place in the tureen 2 hard-boiled eggs, mashed smooth, and turn in the soup after straining. This soup can be made and strained and served the same day. All or part of the vegetables may be used. Cabbage Beef Soup. — Three or five pounds neck or coarser parts of beef chopped into small pieces. Put to boil in 5 quarts of cold water. When it simmers, skim ; boil slowly for four or five hours. Take out the meat and add 1 cup each of chopped turnips and cabbage and half a cup each of chopped carrots and onions, als/o 1 cup of rice, boil till the rice is cooked. Cabbage may be used alone and the other vegetables left out if desired. JToodie Soup. — Put a soup-bone in a kettle half-full of water (any other cheap cut of meat will do). Peel and slice 2 small potatoes, 1 turnip, 1 onion, and add to the soup. Fifteen minutes before serving put in the noodles and let them cook. French Beef Soup (Pot-au-feu). — Cut into small pieces and remove all the fat from 3J pounds of the cross rib or shoulder of beef Take a large knuckle bone that has been well-broken and put it and the beef in a soup-kettle and cover with cold water, using 5 quarts at least. Heat slowly, watching it, and as soon as it is boiling skim carefully. When it has been thoroughly skimmed add 1 bay leaf, 1 red pepper or 1 dozen black pepper-corns, 1 can of tomatoes and 2 onions, chopped. Simmer slowly from three to four hours. Strain and serve clear. Color it, if wished, with a couple teaspoonfuls of caramel. Turnips, carrots, and a little chopped celery can be added if desired. The vegetables can be left in, and the soup not strained for family use. If thickening is desired, wet upji tablespoonful 6f flour in a little cold water, and stir in about five minutes before serving. Puree of Turnips al' Bspagnol. — Pare, wash and quarter 3 medium-sized turnips for each quart of veal broth ; to this allow a gill of well-washed rice, an ounce of butter, salt, white pepper and a lump of white sugar ; simmer gently an hour ; rub through a fine sieve ; return to the fire till scalding hot, and pour into the soup tureen over dice of fried bread. 40 SOUPS. . ' Fayaily Soup.— Time, 6 hours ; 3 or 4 quarts of the liquor in which mutton or salt beef has been boiled. Any bones from dressed meat, trimmings of poultry, scraps of meat or 1 pound gravy beef, 2 large onions, 1 turnip, 2 carrots, a little celery seed tied in a piece of muslin, bunch savory herbs, 1 sprig parsley, 5 cloves, 2 blades mace,, a few pepper-corns, pepper and salt to taste." Put all your meat trimmings, meat bones, etc., into sjEw-pan. Stick onions with cloves, add them with other vegetables to meat ; pour oyer all the pot liquor ; set over slow fire and let simmer gently, removing all scum as it rises. Strain through fine hair sieve. Marrow Dumpling Soup. — Remove the marrow from a beef-leg soup-bone. Put the bone and meat on to boil in 3 quarts of cold water, with a sprig of parsley and a large onion, chopped fine; bring to a boil slowly and cobk several hours : half an hour before serving time strain, put back over fire and season with salt and pepper. When briskly boiling, put in dumplings made as follows : Grate 4 large slices of stale bread; add the marrow, 2 eggs, a little nutmeg, salt and pepper, 1 tablespoonful of flour ; make into little dumplings the size of a hickory-nut, and drop into the boiling soup. Boil fifteen minutes, then serve. Kiple Soup.-r- For four persons take an egg, and into this, with the floured palms of the hands, rub as much flour as the egg will hold. Keep on rubbing in flour until the dough falls from the palms in tiny little flakes or ripples. These must be dropped into the boiling soup broth, flavored with salt, and left on the stove until they rise to the surface. This miakes a thick and delicious soup. Glace Soup. — Take one-half loaf stale wheat bread, soak in water. Put a large tablespoon butter on , griddle ; when hot put in the well- dried bread, season with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley andl juice of 1 onion. Dry well and then put in a bowl, and break in 2 eggs and mix well. Use one-half of this mixture for the balls ; roll in hand and make the size of marbles ; make a clear beef soup, and when it boils drop them in and boil two minutes. Serve at once. tlressiMg for Veal — Use other half of mixture left from soup balls. Beef Gumbo. — To make an excellent soup with gumbo and meat, cut up a pound of lean beef, and put it with one-quarter of a pound of butter — a good grade of butterine will do quite as well — and 1 onion, sliced, with pepper and salt, in a soup kettle, and stir it SOUPS. 41 over the fire until it is all very brown, then add 4 quarts of cold water, and boil gently one hour, after which put in 2 cupfuls of chopped okra, and simmer all for nearly four hours longer. 'The mucilaginous matter contained in the okra will serve to thicken the soup without the addition of flour or other like substance. Veal Soups. Mock Turtle Soup. — The old Virginian rule for mock turtle soup can hardly be excelled, and, though troublesome, quite deserves to lead off the Christmas dinner. To make it, sOak a calf's head, well cleaned, an hour in cold water and put on the fire in 5 quarts of cold water, boiling till the meat slips easily from the bones. Take out the head, leaving all loose bones in the pot, and remo^fe the tongue anq' brains, putting them on separate plates to cool. lAy the face meal smoothly on a plate, that it may cut easily into dice when cold., Chop the rest of the me^it very fine and reserve a cupful for forc« meat balls7 Season the rest with 1 tablespoon- ful of mace, 3 of salt, 1 of pepper, and return to the pot, simmering all for four hours and not allowing the broth to be less than 4 quarts. Two hours before it is done add two minced _^. . onions, fried brown in butter, and a biinch of sweet herbs. Make force-meat balls by seasoning the cupful of meat very highly, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a salt- spoonful of allspice and of mace ; work in 2 raw eggs and make the mixture into about 18 small balls. Flour them well and set in a hot oven till a crust has formed. Cut the tongue and face meat into dice and put into the tureen with the balls. Melt 4 spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, and when it boils add 4 of sifted flour, stirring till brown and adding the boiling soup till it can be easily poured into the soup pot. It should make the soup like thick cream. The soup should have first been strained and returned to the pot before the thickening is added. Add 2 glasses of sherry, a tablespoonful of mushroom or walnut catsup, and a lemon sliced thin, and serve at once. Slices of hard boiled egg are sometimes added. It is equally good the second day. Plain Mock Turtle Soup. — Use a knuckle of veal, or 4 calf's feet, and 1 pound of veal ; put into the soup kettle with 3 quarts d 42 SOUPS. coljd'water ; simmer slowly, until the meat falls ofif the bones. When nearly done, add one-half teaspoonful powdered thyme or sweet marjoram, one-quarter teaspoonful mace, one-half teaspoonful ground cloves and salt. Brown 1 tablespoonful of flour in the same quantity of butter, stir well into the soup and strain. The next morning ^remove the fat thoroughly and warm gradually, and add yoke of hard-boiled egg. To this may be added force-meat balls, musj^rooms, far thin slices of lemon. Consomme with Egg Dumplings. — Boil 2 shanks of veal in 4 quarts of water, add vegetables, season to taste with sweet herbs. When done, strain through a napkin. Color, if desired, with a teaspoonful of caramel, 6t, it can be turned into a jar and cooled, when the fat will rise to the top. This can be removed in a cake, and the soup can be poured off with- out disturbing the sediment. Boil egg dump- lings in the soup 15 minutes before the soup is The veal shanks may be made into veal loaf, of Alphabet Cutters. served (see recipe), veal cheese. Veal Soup, Plain. — ^A knuckle of leg of veal. Boil it with two- thirds of a cup of rice. Season with pepper knd salt, and a little pairsley or celery. Before the soup is seasoned, talce out the veal. Force-meat balls or egg dumplings may be added. Thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in milk or water. Turn it' over slices of toast in the tureen. Tapioca Veal Soup.— rMake the soup as for plain veal soup. Skim carefully, season. Soak J cup of pearl tapioca in a cup of milk. When the soup is nearly done, remove the meat, skim off every particle of fat and stir in the tapioca until it dissolves in the hot soup. Siinmer half an hour, add a little celery essence and serve. Bonne Femme Soup. — Heat 1 quart chicken or veal stock. Boil 1 pint good milk. Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs, add to them the boiling milk, and stir' this into the soup quickly; do not let boil. Season with pepper and salt. Serve with croutons or small triangles of toast. Brown Veal Soup.-^Take the liquor in which a calf's head has been boiled, thicken with browned flour, season with salt and spice to taste. Add 1 hard-boiled egg cut in pieces and 1 sliced lemon. SOUPS. 43 Mutton Soups. Scotch Mutton Brotli. — Time, three and a half hours ; 6 lbs. neck of mutton, 3 quarts water, 5 carrots, 5 turnips, 2 onions, 4 tablespoon- fols Scotch barley, a little salt. Soak mutton in water for an hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stew-pan with 3 quarts of water. As soon as it boils skim well and then simmer for one and a half hours. Cut best end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with 2 bones in each; take off nearly all fat before putting into broth; skim the moment meat boils, and frequently afterwards ; add carrot?, turnips and onions^all cut into 2 or 3 pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly done; stir in Scotch barley; add salt to taste, let all stew together for three and a half hours; about half an a hour before sending it to table, put in little chopped parsley and serve. Mutton Turnip Soup.-^Leg of mutton and 5 quarts of water, Cover close and boil two hours. Skim. Put in 1 onion, a dozen small white turnips, quartered, a little thyme finely minced. Boil two hours longer. Take out the joint, strain the soup, return it to the fire, add a cup of milk in which has been stirred a 1;ablespoonful of flour and 1 of butter. Season with salt and pepper, boil up once, stirring all the time. Pepper Pot. — To 4 quarts of water put 1 pound of corned pork, 1 pound of neck or scrag of mutton and a small knuckle of veal. Let this simmer slowly for three hours, skimming all the while, and then take out the mutton, which will serve as a special dish for the table with celery sauce. Into the broth put 4 sliced white turnips, 6 tomatoes or a tablespoonful of tomato ketchup, an onion in thin slices, a little pepper and salt to' taste. Add to this a J lb. of tripe in 1 inch strips, 6 potatoes thinly sliced and a dozen whole cloves. Simmer for an hour. Ten minutes before serving add dumplings no bigger than a marble* Serve hot. removing the ,Dork and veal bone before serving. Mutton Soup with Cheese Dumplings.— Make a stock from 5 cents' worth of soup mutton, a pitece from the neck is best, form drop balls with J cupful of flour, J cupful of milk, 1 Jtablespoonful of butter, 1 of grated cheese, and 1 egg. Mix evenly, set in another basin filled with hot water, and cook about five minutes, stirring con- stantly; then set away to cool. When cold, roll Jnto little balls about 44 SOUPS. the size of hickory nuts. Drop into boiling water and cook gently five minutes, but be careful -they do not break. Put in the soup tureen and pour boiling stock over them. A plate of finely grated cheese may be passed with the soup. liamb Broth. — Take 3 to 4 pounds of lamb, put into 3 quarts of cold water, and let it simmer one hour ; be sure to skim when it first boils up ; add f cup of rice and let it boil three hours till the meat is tender; stir occasionally. If the water boils away or it is too thick, add hot "water; salt to taste, peel and slice 4 potatoes; add to broth half an hour before serving; very nice. If one likes it, add a little oweet marjoram or poultry seasoning. Mutton Broth. — Cut 2 lbs. of lean mutton into squares, remov* ing every particle of fat. Cover with 1 quart of cold water; let it come to the boil, and simmer slowly two hours. Twenty minutes before it is taken up, add 1 tablespoon of well-washed rice. Put in salt and pepper to taste. Add vegetables if liked, or dumplings. ^ Chicken Soups. Chicken Soup. — Cut up the fowl and put it in a stew pan with i quarts of water (cold),- stew until there are but 3 quarts left. Take out the chicken; season the liquor and add a small cupful of rice. Cook rice tender. If you like, add a cup of milk and 1 or 2 beaten eggs just before serving. Stew, not boil, the chicken. Chicken Vegetahle Soup. — Wash a fat hen. Stuff it if desired, truss it so it will be presentable on the table, put it into a porcelain kettle with 4 quarts of water, bOil 2 hours ; slice 3 or 4 Irish pota- toes ; 1 large onion ; 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley ; 1 tea- spoonful celery-seed, and a bit of summer savory, if you have it ; J red pepper-pod, salt to taste. When the soup has boiled one hour add the vegetables^ and when nearly done put in a pint of sweet milk. \ Chicken Com Soup. — Cut up one large fowl and boil until ten- der in 4 quarts of water. Remove the chicken and save 1 cupful of the broth. Add the kernels from 1 dozen ears of corn, or 1 can of corn to the soup and stew one hour longer. Season with pepper, salt, and parsley or celery. Thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in 1 cdp of milk. Let boil up and serve. Veal may be substituted for chicken in making, this soup. Take the chicken and serve it with the following gravy : To the SOUPS. 45 cup of chicken broth add 1 beaten egg ; let it boil up and pour over the chicken. Mullagata-wny Soup. — Cut in small pieces the breast of a young chicken after it has cooked in soup stock. Put on the fire the carcass and bones of the chicken, add enough soup stock to cover it, simmer for one hour and strain. Fry 2 small onions in 1 ounce of butter ; add f of an ounce of flour ; stir well ; pour the broth in the butter and onions ; boil up ; add 1 tablespoonful of diluted curry pOwder, J a cup of milk, pepper and salt. Simmer 1,0 minutes. Put the chicken meat in the soup tureen, 2 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, pour over the soup stock and serve. Some epicures insist upon rabbit for this soup. If used, proceed in the same fashion. Giblet Soup. — Wash 2 sets of giblets. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and set over the fire. Have cut up 1 onion, 1 carrot and 1 stalk of celery ; when the butter is hot, put these in and fry brown. Skim them out and put them in a soup-kettle with J a gallon of water, the giblets, a pound of lean beef and a sprig of parsley. Set over a moderate fire, and let simmer until the giblets , are tender ; skim until clear. Rub 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of butter together, and stir into the soup. Take out the giblets, cut into pieces, an3 put them into the soup-tureen with the yolks of 6 hard- boiled eggs. Strain the soup, season with salt and pepper, and pour into the tureen. CMckeu or Turkey Soup. — Take the bones and body of the fowl after the meat has nearly all beeii taken off, and put it with 3 pints of water to boil ; let it cook slowly for tyo hours ; by this time all the meat should leave the bones; if the water has boiled away, add more ; remove the bones ; there should be considerable meat in the broth ; to this add 8 good-sized potatoes and 4 or 5 onions, ? carrots, 2 small turnips, and salt and pepper to taste ; twenty minutes before serving add dumplings. Try this for supper some cold night, and you will agree with me that it is excellent. .If there is any of the dressing left, add half a cupful to soup. f Turkey Soup. — Take the turkey bones and cook for one hour in water enough to cover them, then stir in a little of the dressing and a beaten egg. A little chopped celery improves it. Take from the fire, and when the water has ceased bpiling add a little butter, with pepper and salt. 46 SOUPS. Gumbo Soup. — ^The canned okra, can be used for this, or dried , oki^ soaked over night, either making an excellent soup. ^Slice 3 red onions fine, and fry brown in a tablespoonful of butter; add to this i of a pound of ham cut in dice and fry one minute, J a ciip ol washed rice, 1 can of tomatoes and the okra, and a cupful of beef stock, with y teaspoonful of salt and J a saltspoonful of cayenne.' Cover and stew very slowly for not less than four hours. It must be stirred often, to prevent burning, as okra is very sticky. This makes a very thick soup. If preferred thinner, add more broth, but in the South it is eaten thick. To this gunibo oysters are often added, fifty being used and put into a pan with a spoonful of melted butter till very slightly browned. Gumbo Soup. — II. To "a quart can of tomatoes add a gallon_of water and set to boil several hours before the soup will be needed. Have ready a skillet with lard or unsalted butter that has come to the bubbling point. Into this drop either 1 small or J of a large chicken that has been jointed and cut up for frying, 1 onion, and a dozen pods of okra cut into slices lengthwise. Salt and pepper to ^ taste. When this mixture is fried to "a delicate brown, transfer the ientire contents of the skillet to the vessel containing the tomatoes, and let the combination boil down to a thick consistency. "To those with a peppery palate a green pepper or a red one cut up into the boiling mass commends itself. This same preparation may be made with shrimps instead of chicken. Always the result is an extremely rich and heavy soup. G]uinbo should always be served with rice, not that glutinous mass which so often offends the eye and insults the grain on hotel tables, but rice cooked in South Carolina style, which is simply rice in perfection. Gumbos occupy the medium ground between soups and stews. CMcken Gum^bo. — Cut up the chicken meat or game to make the soup. Fry in butter to a light brown with 1 onion cut fine ; add boiling water in proportion to the nieat. 2 pounds of meat or chicken and J pound of- ham will take 4 quarts of water. This, boiled down, will make sufficient for six persons. Let the gumbo simmer for two hours. Slice about 1 pint of green okra pods, brown them in the same pan after the chfcken is put in soup, and add at once. Add a tablespoonful of ilour to the fat in the pan ; stir until it browns; thin with J a cup of the liquor and stir it into the soup. SOUPS. 47 0}reters are an improvement. Scald their liquor, pour into the soup, and let boil fifteen minutes. Add thd oysters in time enough for them to boil up once or twice. Gumbo Filee. — Make as above, save in the absence of okra 1 tablespoon of th.tfiUe is added. This is a preparation of dried sas. safras leaves with a small quantity of pulverized bay leaves. Gombo Soup, with Grabs. — Mince an onion and fry it in butter #rith an equal quantity of small dice of raw ham ; cover with a quart of white broth and add half of a minced green pepper, half a dozen sliced okras, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, and 2 tomatoes cut in dice ; season ; cook for half an hour^ simmering slowly, and add the meat from 2 boiled crabs or 3 soft-shelled crabs cut small. Meat Vegetable Soups. Vegetable Soup. — Two or three pounds of lean beef and salt po;:k mixed, 1 small head of cabbage, 1 turnip, 1 large onion, 1 small beet ; boil separately from the meat. When the other T^egetables are beginning to get done, add 2 or 3 potatoes. When all are done well, chop fine, chop the meat, put together and season. Summer Vegetable Soup. — ^To prepare this soup take 2 pounds of the neck of beef, a quart of sliced tomatoes, a quart of corn sliced from the cob, 3 pints of water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 of flour, and salt and pepper to suit taste. Put the meat and water into a soup-pot, and as soon as the liquor begins' to boil, skim it carefully. Simmer for three hours, then add the tomato and corn cobs. Cook for half an hour, then strain into another kettle and add the corn, the flour and butter mixed together and enough salt and pepper to sea- son well. Cook forty nainutes longer, then serve. Julienne Sonp. — Cut }^ pint of carrots, }^ pint turnips, }(, pint mions, 2 beets and % head of celery into small dice. Fry carrots in 1 ounce of butter, and pour over them 2 quarts of boiling stock, then add the other vegetables and %, pint peas ; stew all gently for an hour. Economical Sonp. — Take a cold roast-beef bone, pieces of beef- steak, the remnants of a cold turkey or chicken. Put them mto a pot with 3 or 4 quarts of water, 2 carrots, 3 turnips, 1 onion, a few cloves, pepper and salt, Boil the whole gently four hours, then strain it through a colander, mashing the vegetables so that they will 48 SOUPS. pass through. Skim off the fat and return the soup to the pot. Mix I'tablespoonful of flour with 2 of water, stir it into the soup and boil the whole ten minutes. Serve with bits of dry toast cut into a trian- gular form. Puree of Cauliflower, or Cauliflower Cream Soup. — One quart of soup-stock, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of cooked 'cauliflower, 1 table* spoonful of minced onion, salt, white pepper or Cayenne, 1 table- spoonful of minced parsley. Cold cauliflower can be used. If cooked for the purpose pick in small branches and boil in salted water until done. Boil the minced onion in the soup-stock. Mash the cauli- flower and add, together with the milk which should be boiling hot. Season. Thicken, if necessary, with a little flour until the consist- ency of thin cream. Add a lump of butter and the minced parsley. A puree is a thick,, creamy soup where the ingredients are mashed fine, and the soup not strained. - Ham Bone Soup. — Boil the ham^bone (it should have some meat left on it), in fresh water for about five minutes. Pour off this first water and cover the bone with fresh water. Cook it gently and sea- son to taste. Cut up potatoes fine and add to the soup. Just before serving pour in 1 cup of milk, thicken with a little flour. Before putting in the milk- all fat should be skimmed from the soup, Other vegetables may be added if wished. If corn beef is not too salt, soup may be made in the same manner from the water in .which it has been boiled, One ^%'g may be beaten and stirred stiff with flour, and the mixture dropped by bits into the soup, aiid will be found an improvement. Bean Porridge. — ^Take 4 or 5 pounds of the cheaper portions of beef in a large kettle, cover with cold water. Let come to a boil, skimming at intervals. Soak 1 quart of beans oyer night. Put these over in cold water to which one-half teaspbonful of soda has been added. Let boil until they begin to soften. Then skim from the , soda-water into the boiling soUp. When nearly done mix yi pint of corn m^al, smooth with cold water and stir in, adding 2 red pepper pods and salt to taste. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, in the tureen, and turn the soup over them. This dish improves with age. Supply the loss by cooking with boiling water from the tea-kettle. When done it should be the consistency of ordinary bean soup. Bean and Com Soup. — One pound of lean beef, cut in small SOUPS. 49 pieces, }4 pound of salt pork, 1 quart of dried white beans soaked over night, 1 onion sliced, 1 teaspoonful of celery salt, 1 of pepper and 2 of salt, a little parsley, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 ca;n of corn, or the same amount of green corn cut from the ear, 5 quarts of water. Put everything together but the corn, and boil slowly 2 hours, or until the beans are soft. Half-an-hour before serving,' stew the corn slowly in a separate sauce-pan, adding a teaspoonful of butter and a little salt. Strain the soup through a colander, rubbing the beans to a pulp. Put over the fire again and add the corn. Boil altogether a minute, and serve with toasted crackers. If wanted for a substantial meal, this soup may be made without straining. TJean and Tomato Soup. — Make the bean soup after the above recipe, substituting in place of the corn a can of tomatoes, or the same amount of fresh tomatoes. Half an hour before serving put the tomatoes Qver the fire, season and stew to a pulp, rub through a col- ander and add to the soup. Put croutons, or small squares of toast, in the tureen and pour the soup over them. Black Bean Soup. — ^Take ordinary soup stock. Soak IJ cups of black beans all night, cook them soft in the same water and press through a sieve ; chop the yolk of a hard-boiled egg into the tureen. Add the beans to the hot stock, season and pour into tureen. White beans can be made into soup in the same way. Bean Soup. — ^Take the bones and scraps of meat left from steaks and chops, boil.with a pint of navy beans until the beans are tender; season to taste, and just before serving add a cup of milk; let it boil up, Spanish Bean Soup. — Soak 1 quart of beans over night, boil them the next morning till tender, add 1 small white cabbage, which haa been cut up fine, a bit of bacon, a whole red pepper and some salt ; boil the whole for an hour. Heat some lard or drippings in a sauce> pan and fry in it a sliced onion ; put in the soup little by little; stir often with a wooden spoon. This is a perfect representative of the favorite soup kept for all travelers in Spanish climes. Bean Porridge. — Boil 6 pounds of fresh or corned beef; have about 6 quarts of liquor; parboil 1 quart of kidney beans; rinse and boil in the liquor until done ; when nearly done add 1 J quarts of hulled com ; thicken^with corn meal, to which a little flour has been added ; season with pepper and salt to taste. Baked Bean Soup. — Put them over the fire with an onion stuck COOK— 4 50 SOUPS. with three cloves attd a quart of water; boil half an howr, press through a sieve, return to the fire, dilute to the piroper consistency with miUc or water ; stir in some bits of butter rolled in flour, and serve in pretty cups. Bean Soup with Croutons. (In French, puree de haricots aux croutons.) — A puree is any kind of mashed vegetables. One-quarter of a pint white beans, 1 onion; butter, the size of an egg; 1 teaspoon of salt ; a pinch of pepper. Pick, wash the beans and put them over the fire with 1 quart of cold water. Cover the beans and let them boil firom 3 to 3 J hours. Then press them through the colander until nothing but their skins are left. Put the puree back in the saucepan over the fire, with the water in which the beans have cooked. If the water has evaporated during the cooking, add enough boiling water to make the soup of right consistenfcy. Next add the salt, pepper and onions, which have been previously minced fine. Boil slowly for half an hour. Put the butter in the soup tureen and pour *;be soup on it, and serve with fried croutons. Bean Soup without Meat. — Soak quart white beans over night ; In morning pour off water ;~^dd fresh and set over fire until skins Will easily slip off; throw them into cold water, rub well and skins will- rise to top, where they may be removed. Boil beans until perfectly soft, allowing 2 quarts of water to 1 quart beans ; mash beans, add flour and butter, rub together, also salt and pepper. Gut cold bread into small pieces, toast and drop on soup when you serve. Macaroni or Vermicelli Soup. — Two small carrots, 4 onions, 2 turnips, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoonful salt; pepper to taste. Royal herbs^— marjoram, parsley and thyme. Any cooked or uncooked meat. Put soup bones in enough water to cover ; when they boil, skim, add the vegetables. Simmer 3 or 4 hours, strain through colander and put back in saucepan to reheat. Boil half pound macaroni until quite tender, place in soup tureen and pour soup over it — the last thing. Vermicelli will only need to be soaked a short time — not boiled. Split Pea Soup. — Take 2 quarts of cold water, 1 cup of peas, 3 onions (if you like them), cut in sliceSj 1 ..pound of raw beef, cut up ; salt and pepper to taste; boil 3 hours; take out the beef and run the soup through a sieve ; mash SOUPS. 01 it all through; add a pint of milk and serve very hot with toasted bread or crackers. Pea Soup. — One pint of peas soaked over night; boil in 4 quarts of good beef stock, with an onion, turnip and carrot, if desired; stir frequently, that it may not burn ; serve with toasted bread cut in small pieces. Dried Grreen Pea Soup. — One pint of dried peas, 2 onions, 1 turnip, 1 carrot, some outside leaves of celery, 1 teaspoon of salt, one- half teaspoon of pepper; soak the peas for 12 hours, put them on to boil in 2 quarts of cold rain water; waSh and cut up the vegetables, and when the water boils add them to the peas, also the salt and pepper, and let all boil slowly for 3 hours ; stir often ; after that time pour through a sieve, rub all through that is possible, put back into, saucepan to get quite hof ; serve with crisp toast cut into dices. Piquant Pea Soup. — One pint of green dried peas — or fresh ones. If dried, scald in a solution of saleratus water, blanch them thoroughly and cook gently in 2 quarts of water until tender and soft. Pass them through a sieve. Chop 2 onions and fry in 2 tablespoons of butter, add 6 cloves andTT)ay leaf and then stir all together. Put in a tablespoon^ of salt -and a cup of either canned or whole tomatoes. Let the whole cook very slowly for an hour, when, if it seems too thick, add a little boiling water and let it cook a little longer. Then add a pinch of red pepper and a tablespoonful of butter, and just before serving a cupful of squares of bread which have been fried brown in butter until of a pretty golden hue. Green Pea Soup without Meat. — Turn a can of peas into a large saucepan and cover them with hot water. Add a small onion sliced and let them boil until the peas are soft. Mash them and add a pint of water. Melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and stir into it 1 spoonful of flour. Stir until smooth and add to the cooked peas 2 cupfuls of rich milk. Season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Let the soup boil up once after the milk is added ; then rub through a coarse sieve and serve with tiny squares of fried bread. Green Pea Puree.— Steam 1 pint of fresh or canned green peas in 1 pint of hot water until they are perfectly soft ; rub through a sieve, add salt, pepper and other condiments to suit taste. Boil and then add a gill of cream, and then boil again, and serve with fried bread or toast. 52 SOUPS. , Macaroni Soup (Veal). — Three pounds of a joint of veal, well broken up ; put in 4 quarts of water and set it to boil ; prepare J of a pound of macaroni by boiling it by itself, with sufficient water to cover it ; add a little butter to the macaroni when it is tender ; strain the soup and sfcason to taste with salt and pepper, then add the macaroni in the water in which it is boiled. The addition of 1 pint of rich milk or cream and celery flavor is relished by many. Vermicelli Soup. — Boil a shin of veal in 4 quarts of water. Skim it very carefully, then put in 1 onion, 1 carrot and a turnip, not cut up, and boil 3 hours. Add^alt, 2 cups of vermicelli and boil an hour • and a half longer. Remove the bone and vegetables and it is ready to serve, Ox-Tail Soup. — ^Wash 2 ox-tails a^id cut them into pieces, sepa- rating them at the joints. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a fry- ing pan, and when it becomes hot put in the pieces of ox-tail and an onion cut in slices and fry them to a light brown. Put the browned meat in a soup kettle, with 3 quarts of cold water, 1 bay leaf, 1 car- rot, sliced, a stick of celery, 4 cloves, and 6 whole peppers. Let them cook slowly 3 hours. Pick out some of the pieces of ox-tail for the tureen. Season the soup with salt and strain and remove the grease. Then reheat and add the pieces of ox- tail and turn into the tureen. i Soup NeapoUtau. — Five cups of well-seasoned stock. Make a paste of 1 egg in flour, to which a pinch of salt has been added. Form intp balls the size of a thimble, drop in the soup 10 minutes before serving, season with sal^ pepper, a tablespoonful of Parmesan cheese and a little chopped parsley. ' Hasty Soup. — Chop some cold cooked meat fine, and put a pint into a stew pan with some jgravy, season with pepper and salt, and a little butter if the gravy is not rich, add a little flour moistened with cold water, and 3 pints boiling water, boil moderately half an hour. Strain over some rice pr nicely toasted bread, and serve. Uncooked meat m_ay be used by using 1 quart of cold watey to a pound of chopped meat, and letting it stand half an hour before boiling. Celery root may be grated in as seasoning, or a branch of parsley thrown in. SOUPS. 53 , Mock Oyster Soup. — Place on the stove a teacupful of shredded codfish in a quart of cold water. ■ Let simmer half an hour, add a pint of stewed tomatoes and a very little saleratus. Boil 5 minutes, add a quart of sweet milk, a slice of butter, salt and pepper. When it reaches the boiling point serve with crackers. Bice Mieat Soup. — Three ounces of riccy the yolks of two eggs, J pint of cream or new milk, 1 quart of stock. Boil the rjce in the stock, and rub half of- it through a sieve or tammy, put the stock in a stew pan, add the rest of the rice whole, and simmer for 5 minutes. Beat the yalks and mix with the cream or milk, boiled. Take the soup off the fire, and add the cream and eggs. Heat to boiling point. Bice Meat Soup. — II. Three pints ofveal or chicken or beef broth will be needed as a basis for this excellent soup. Wash J cupful of rice and put it on with the broth to cook. Put 3 tablespoonfuls of butter into a pan, and put into it when hot 3 tablespoonfuls each of chopped carrot, celery and onion. Let them cook slowly 20 min- utes, then remove the vegetables to the soup ; stir 2 tablespoonfuls flour into the butter left from the vegetables, add that to the soup with a bit of mace, 3 cloves, ^ teaspoon pepper and 3 teaspoonfuls salt. Let all simmer gently 2 hours. Strain soup, add a quart of rich milk heated in a double boiler, boil up once and serve. Game Soups. Puree of Game. — ^A very good game soup may bfi_ prepared frona the remnants of game, even of different kinds. Bpil the pieces, bones and all of the different birds for an hour or more in water, or better still, in weak broth or soup stock. Boil 3 or 4 tiirnips or heads of cauliflowers and rub or mash fine. Pound the meat fine and rub through a sieve to a powder, and return meat and cauliflower to the soup, together with 2 eggs beaten into f pint of milk. Let this reach the boiling point (but not boil), and serve hot. < ■White Babbit Soup. — ^Two rabbits, disjointed, 1 head celery, a little chopped parsley, a minced onion. Put these into 3 quarts of water, and boil gently until tender. Take out the best pieces of rabbit for a separate dish. Separate the rest of the meat from the bones, replace the bones in the kettle and boil an hour ; strain the liquid in which they have boiled and let it cool. Rub the meat fine with th« yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, and a few bread or cracker crumbs; put 54 SOUPS. through a sieve and add to the soup ; add salt and pepper to taste ; let it simmer 1 5 minutes, thickening with 2 teaspoonfuls of corn starch or rice flour^ Brown Babbit Soup. — Disjoint the rabbit, roll in flour and fry brown in butter. Put this in a kettle and cover with 3 quarts of boiling water. Season with pepper, salt and parsley (add a minced onion if liked). Boil 3 hours. Thicken with browned flour and send to the table with fried crusts. Soup of Frogs' luegs. — Take 2 dpgen frogs' legs and pour over them lukewarm water, let them remain in it about 5 minutes, but not to cook, pour off the water and add equal quantities of milk and water sufficient to cover, cook moderately about half an hour, simmer a small onion chopped, in butter, add it to the soup with 1 quart of richr milk, 2-tablespoonfuls of butter, a little salt and pepper, and a des- sertspoonful of chopped parsley ; skim the legs from the soup, and remove the me,at from the bones, put the meat into the tureen with a tablespoonful of thick cream and a little celery chopped very fine ; pour in the hot soup and serve at once. Game Soup,— ^Two grouse or partridges, or if none of these are at hand, a pair of rabbits; Half a pound of lean ham, 2 small onions, i pound of lean beef, 2 stalks of celery cut in inch lengths, 3 quarts of water. Joint the game, cut the ham and onions into small pieces, and fry all except the celery in butter, until a light brown. Put in a stew- pan with the beef, cut into bits, and a little pepper and salt. Pour on the water, heat slowly and stew gently 2 hours. Take out the game and keep warm. Cook the soup an hour longer ; strain, return to the stew-pan and drop in the celery. Cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes longer. Pour upon fried bread in the turedh. Venison Soup. — Make the same as the above, with the addition of a tablespoonful of browned flour wet to a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful of catsup, Worcestershire, or other sauce, and, if wines are used in cookery, a glass of Madeira or Sherry wine. Squirrel Soup. — ^Wash and quarter three or four squirrels. Cover with 1 gallon cold water and 1 tablespoonful salt. Put over the fire right after breakfast. Cover the kettle closely and set on the back of the stove where it will simmer slowly all the morning. Add any kind of vegetables as in other meat soups, corn, Lima beans, potatoes. SOUPS. 55 etc. When the meat has boiled to shreds strain the whole through a coarse colander. Boil 10 minutes longer^hickening with butter rubbed in flour. Put croutons, or squares of toast in the tureen, anc^ pour the soup over them. Good. Oyster Soup. — One quart of oystersj 1 quart of milk, ^ cup of butter, yi cup of powdered crackers. Whfcn milk boils add butter, crackers and oyi^ter liquor (which has been boiled and skimmed), then pepper and salt to taste, and finally the oysters. Cook three minutes longer and serv«. May also season with celery salt, or a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. For persons preferring the oysters without milk the same method may be followed, omitting the vnilt and substituting water in it place. The rolled crackers may be omitted also, if wished. Oyster Soup (Plain). — One quart of oysters with their liquor, 2 quarts of cold water, 1 pint of milk, 1 heaping teaspoonful of salt. Let the whole boil together 2 minutes. Skim out the oysters, add y^ teacupful of butter, a little pepper and 1 small cupful rolled crack- ers. Let this boil up and pour over the oysters. If there is the slightest danger of the milk curdling, heat it separately, and do not add it until the water is boiling hot. Oyster Cream Soup (Ricli). — Six dozen oysters, 2 quarts of white soup-stock, 1 cupful of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1\ tablespoonfuls of flour or cornstarch, salt and pepper to taste, celery- salt and white pepper best. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, skim them out, add the stock to the oyster liquor, first straining this carefully to remove bits of shell, etc. Simmer for half an hour. Add the seasoning and 1 blade of mace if the flavor is liked ; then the thickening of butter and flour rubbed smoothly together. Simme^ 5 minutes. Have the cream boiling hot in a separate vessel, turn into the broth and pour at once over the oysters. Serve with sliced lemon and oyster crackers. (For stews and other oyster dishes, see Shell Fish.) Celery Oyster Soup. — Cut 3 heads of celery into small pieces, using both foots and stalks ; add a piece of onion as large as a hick- oty-nut and a sprig of parsley ; put into a saucepan with a pint of Tjoiling water and boil half an hour ; put 1 quart of milk into a dbu- i)le boiler ; rub to a smooth paste a heaping tablespoonful of flour, jnd add to it, a little at a time, a % cup of warm milk; pour this 86 SOUPS. into the hot milk and stir until it is smooth and creamy ; remove the parsley and rub the remaining contents with the water through the colander, and add this to the milk; add a teaspoonful^ of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper ; as soon as it boils add 2 dozen nicely- (vashed oysters ; when it reaches the boiling point again remove fronJ^ the fire and serve. Oyster Bouillon. -^Chop 8 large, fresh oysters to a fine mince, and cover them in a small saucepan with a cup of cold water and their own liquor, first straining. Let it come slowly to the boiling point, and then keep it gently simmering for no more than five minutes, strain into a cup and serve very hot with toast cut in squares. If desired, after the liquor is strained, ^ cup of fresh milk can be added, the whole returned to the fire until it comes to a boil. Give a light ~ sprinkle of white pepper into the cup, and add a pinch of salt. This is nice served in fancy cups in place of beef bouillon. liittle Neck Clam Soup.; — ^Put 1 quart of fresh milk in a double boiler with a small onion and a few thin slices of carrot. Heat to the boiling point, then remove the onion and carrot, add 1 heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch wet in a little cdld milk, a heaping table- spoonful of butter, a dash of cayenne and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Chop 25 little-neck clams very fine and heat to a boiling point in their own liquor. Skim carefully. When ready to serve add the clams and liquor to the soup and serve at once. Clam Bouillon. — ^This now comes in cans ready for use, is en- riched by an addition of celery-salt and a mere squeeze of onion-juice, with a trifle thickened milk. Sprinkle a few fresh parsley sprigs on the top of each bouillon cup, and nobody will perceive the onion after you have left the table. It may also be made by simmering chopped clams in tfie:jr own broth with an equal quantity of water, the broth strained through fine muslin, and seasoned with pepper. If for a,n invalid, hot milk may be added v^hen the broth is strained.' Serve with toasted crackers. This is highly recom- mended, not only for invalids, but as a steady diet for those inclined to grow stout. / Bisque of Clams. — Drain 25 clams, pouring 1 cupful of cold water over them. Put the liquor in a saucepan to boil ; skim, and when it boils up add the: clams, first chopping very fine. Boil and skim again. Then add jS^ a small cupful of rolled crackers and a table- SOUPS. 67 spoonful of butter rubbed smooth with 2 of flour. Let boil slowly for 15 minutes. Press through a sieve and return to the kettle. Heat to boiling point, and add to it 1 pint of cream, previously heated in a separate saucepan. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve iinmediately ; if allowed to stand over the fire the crpam is apt to curdle. Bisque of Clams with Proflteroles. — Wash and chop 1 quart of clams. Put into a stewpan with J pint of white stock (or water) 1 slice onion, 2 blades celery, a tiny bit of mace, a bay leaf and a sprig of parsley. Cover; cook gently half an hour. In another saucepan have~^~pint of stock and a scant pint of stale bread crumbs. Let this cook very slowly 20 minutes. When the clams have cooked half an hour, strain the liquor from them into the pan with the bread crumbs. Stir and rub through a sieve. Return to the fire, add 3 tablespoons butter and 2 of flour rubbed together, 2 teaspoon^ salt, ^ teaspoon white pepper, 1 pint milk and 1 of cream (or 2 pints rich milk) heated to a boiling point. Let it boil up once, strain again and serve. With it pass the Profiteroles. — Into a saucepan put 2 tablespoonfuls butter and 1^ cup boiling water. Put on the firp, and when it boils add f cup flour, and beat well 2 minutes. Remove from\ fire, and when cool break into it 2 eggs. Beat for 10 minutes, add ^ teaspoonful salt, make into balls size of a pea, put tjiem into a slightly buttered pan. Bake in a moderate oven 10 minutes. liobster Soup. — Cut a lobster, weighing about 4 pounds, in small pieces. Place in a bowl 6 crackers, rolled fine, 1 cup of butter, salt, and a very little cayenne pepper ; mix well together. Heat 3 pints of milk and 1 of water ; stir in the mixture, boil 2 or 3 minutes, add the cut lobster, which should have previously been boiled for 5 minutes in the pint of water, and let the mixture boil up once. iUse half this recipe for a small family. If canned lobster is used, it will not be necessary to boil it separately, but drain it well from the liquor in the can. Serve with toasted crackers. Some cooks add the pounded coral. This helps to give the pink color to the soup. The soup should be a pale pink and the thickness of good cream. Lobster Bisque. — 1 can of lobster and 2 cups of milk, 3 pints of boiling water, 1 tablespoonful of butter, \ cup of rolled crackers ; salt and pepper to taste. Chop the lobster rather coarse, drop it, 68 SOUPS. with the salt and pepper, in the water, put to boil and boil gently for 20 minutes. Then add butter and milk, boil again, add cracker srumbs and serve. Veal or chicken broth may be used insteaid of the water, making a delicious bisque. Bisque of^FlounderSi— Soup may be made of any fish, or of the water in which fish has been boiled, with the bones, fins, heads and trimmings of the dressed fish. In either case, add onion, leek, parsley and celery while making the stock; thicken as you would iany cream soup, strain, pressing the fish flesh, if -any, through a colander; add cream, butter, and if a rich bisque' is desired, 2 beaten egg yolks for every quart of the soup. Oyster liquor is a nice addition, and 6 blanched oysters may be added to every quart. Fish Cream Soup. — Season the water in which fresh fish has been boiled-with pepper and salt, and keep until the next day. Heat 1 quart of the liquor, when wanted, to boiling, mince a cupful of cold fish and add to this. Let simmer, 5 rriinutes and stir in 3 tablespoon-r fuls pf butter rolled in flour, and 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. Add to this 1 cup of hot milk into which 1 cup of dried bread crumbs has been stirred. Stir well, let it boil up once, and serve with crackers. Cat-Fish Soup. — Skin, clean and cut in pieces. To J sniall cat- fish allow 1 slice of ham, cut in bits. Cover these with 2 quarts of water season with pepper and parsley (the ham supplies the salt), boil until the fish is tender, remove the backbones. Add to it a quart of boiling milk and 4 tablespoonfuls of butter cut in bits and rolled in flour. Stir in the beaten yolks of 4 eggs, boil quickly and'serve while l^ot. The ham may bejimitted, and the soup seaspned with salt. Other small fish may be cooked in the same manner. Instead of stirring in the beaten eggs, the yolks may be stirred stiff with all the flour they will take up, and this mixture may be dropped in bits into the soup. Oreen Turtle Soup. — This soup should be cooked the day be- fore it is wanted, so that every particle of fat may be removed. Chop up the coarse part of the turtle meat with all the bones, and put it on to boil with all kinds of soup vegetables, onions, pepper and salt. Skim it well and allow it to boil gently for 4 hours. It is well to add to this stock a veal bone. When all is boiled to a pulp, strain it and let SOUPS. 59 It stand over night. The next day take off the top every vestige of iit and put it on to boil. Cut up in small pieces the finer turtle meat And the green fat, pour it into the turtle stock and simmer gently for 2 hours. It is well to boil up the green fat in some water before putting it in the soup, so as to boil off all impurities. The turtle eggs must be boiled alone for 4 hours, placed in the soup tureen, and the hot soup poured over them. Before serving, take a large table- spoonful of good butter, melt it and brown 2 tablespoonfuls of flour in it, add it gently to the soup, as well as any sauces the larder may contain. There are so many different ways of flavoring green turtle soup; some cooks add sweetbreads, others calves' brains; some, force-meat balls; but all agree that it requires mushroom catsup and Madeira wine. The wine must be poured in just before serving, because it loses all flavor if boiled. It is a heavy, rich soup, and difficult to digest, and most epicures insist upon a glass of cordial, or some tart wine, being served with it. If wines are never used, substitute lemon juice instead of Madeira wine in flavor- ing the soup. Green Turtle Soup a la Creole. — Here is the ancient Creole recipe for turtle soup, and it is safe to say that when once eaten after this delightful way no other will seem quite as savory. Cut the tur- tle in small pieces. Let it brown in a pot with a little lard. Cut up several onions, a slice of ham and a little garlic, and stir and mix well with the turtle. Then let the mixture brown well. Put in some flour and mix. Pour a quantity of soup stbck into the pot:^ Let it boil and add a knee-joint of veal. Let this simmer for a full hour. Then put in some thyme, laurel leaf, parsley, shallots, and when everything is cooked add a thin slice of lemon chopped, boiled eggs and a little more parsley. Just before dishing add a wine glass full of Madeira or | that amount of lemon juice, and you will have a soup fit for a king's table. Vegetable Soups— Meatless. There are many times during the summer season, and also through , Lent, when meatless soups are a desirable addition to the bill of fare. The following recipes will be a great help to the housekeeper in vary- ing the daily diet. Tomato Bisque. — ^Tomato bisque is a delicate and appetizing 60 SOUPS. summer soup. Stew and strain 1 quart of tomatoes, add a small tea- spoonful of salt and a little pepper. Boil 1 quart of milki Smooth together 1 tablespoonful of flour with 1 of butter. Add this to the boiling milk, but do not put in the tomatoes until the dinner hour. Have the tureen hot. Turn in the boiling milk, add a small pinch of soda toNihe tomatoes. Pour them in, mix and serve at once. If canned tomatoes are to be used, take a quart can, open it and pour out in a bowl an hour before using. They should be cooked in granite or porcelain. ; (Tin or iron should never be used for acid, fruits or vegetables.) Serve with baked crackers prepared as fol- lows: Butter and sprinkle with cayenne pepper; bake until light brown. Tomato Soup. — One quart of fresh toniatoes, or 1 can, 1 onion; 4^ouhces of butter, tablespoon of flour, 2 spoons of salt, ^ of a spoon of cayenne pepper ,'J a pint of rich milk, 3 pints water ; boil tomatoes and onions f of an hour, add salt, pepper and 3 pints of hot water, the butter and flour rubbed smoothly with a little of the soup, to aid in mixing, and a little more to make it like thin cream. Boil 10 minutes, and when ready to serve pour in the milk, which must be boiling, to prevent it curdling the soup. This is a substantial dinner for children. It may be made thinner if required. Tomato Bice Soup. — Fry a sliced onion brown in butter or good dripping "in the bottom of the soup pot; pour in the chopped con- ',tents of a can of tomatoes and 2 cups of boiling water ; stew till tender, rub through a colander, and return to the fire ; add J cup of boiled rice; thicken with a tablespoon of butter rubbed smooth with 1 tablespoon of flour ; boil up and serve. Tomato Bean Soup. — Three cups of baked beans, 6 cups of cold water, J te^spobnful of celery salt and 3 slices of onions ; sim- mer together 30 minutes ; strain and add 1^ cups or more of stewed tomato straii^ed ; salt and pepper to taste ; rub together tablespoon each of ilour and butter ; cook from 3 to 5 minutes ; with this thick- ening. Serve with croutons, or squares jof toasted bread. liiebig Tomato Soup. — For 5 dishes, take 1 pint of cooked toma- toes, add 1 quart of water, boil and strain. Season with | teaspoon- ful Liebig's extract beef dissolved in hot water, a heaping teaspoon- ful butter, salt, sugar if liked, and 2 heaping teaspoonfuls' corn-starch mixed smoothly with milk. Boil a few moments. SOUPS. 61 -x^omato Meat Soup. — Three pounds of beef, 1 quart of canned tomatcfes, 1 gallon water. Let the meat and water boil for 2 hoursi or until the liquid is reduced to a little more than 2 quarts. Then stir in the tomatoes, and stew all slowly for three-quarters of an hour/ longer. Season to taste, strain and serve. Asparagxis Soup. — Boil 1 quart of asparagus cut in inch lengths in 1 quart of water until tender, heat 1 pint of milk and pour into- the asparagus ; season with butter and salt, pour into a tureen boiling hot and serve at once in large saucers ; to be eaten with butter toast for supper when you want something good. Asparagus Soup. — II. Take 2 bunches (usual size) of good aspa- ragus and cut oflf the tips. Cook the stalks in boiling salted water until they are perfectly tender, then drain and rub through a colander. Then take the water that the asparagus "stalks have been boiled in and add to it 1 quart of fresh milk and set over the fire. When it has come to the boiling point, have a teaspoonful of butter and 2 teaspoonfuls of sifted flour well rubbed together, and stir them into^the milk until quite smooth. Then add the asparagus pulp and boil about 15 min- utes, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, boil the tips separately in boil- ing salted water until they are tender, drain them, put them in the soiip tureen, and after adding salt and pepper to your liking to the milk soup, pour it over the tips and serve. Asparagus Consomme. — ^Add to 1 quart of soup stock the juice from a can of white asparagus ; season with salt and pepper, strain through a cloth and serve hot. The asparagus from the can may be used for a salad served on individual- plates with wafers and olives. Toast wafers in hot oven. Puree of Celery. — Wash and scrape a head of celeiy and cut it into half-inch pieces. Put it into a pint of water and cook till very soft. Mash in the water in which it is. boiled. Chop fine a table- spoonful of onion and cook it in a pint of milk for 10 minutes; then add the milk to the celery. Pass all through a fine strainer and return to the fi:re. Cook together a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour until smooth, but not brown. Stir it into the boiling soup, sea- son with salt and pepper, strain into the tureen and serve. Rice Celery Soup.— Boil a scant cup of rice in 3 pints of milk '-s.til it wiU tjass through a sieve. Grate the white part of 2 or 3 aeaas or ceiery, add this to the rice milk after it has been strained; 62 SOUPS. to this may be added a quart of strong white stock if one wishes, or a pint of water may be used, and after the celery is tender a pint of cream added. Season to taste. Economical Celery Soup. — There is an economical way of treat- ing the large bunch of best-celery which makes it cheap. Use Jthe finer portions of the crisp stalks as a relish. All the tough portions and the root carefully cleaned are to be cut -fine, covered with cold water and cooked slowly till nearly the whole can be rubbed through a strainer. Half an hour before dinner heat this liquid celery with an equal quantity of any kind of rneat-broth you happen to have in the house, and then add 1 pint of hot milk thickened like a white sauce with 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt. If you have no broth, after the soup' is in the tureen stir into it slowly and smoothly the well- beaten yolk of an egg, and you will not miss at all the richness of the meat. Potage a. la Cr^cy. — This is a very nice /a?'^^ soup. Take 4 large red carrots, 2 potatoes, 2 onions, and 2 stalks of celery ; cut them all up and fry brown in butter o'r beef drippings. Then put all into 1 quart of hot water and boil until the vegetables are soft, after which press them through a sieve, or colander. Return to the fire, add 2 cloves, a teaspooufiii of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, a tablespoon^ ful of butter and a few parsley leaves. Heat 1 pint of milk, thicken it with 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch or flour, add to the soup, and serve croutons, or squares of toast. (Po^age is the French term for soup.) (Bean Soup; meatless, will be found among the other Bean Soups.) Cabbage Soup (Meatless). — Take a good-sized cabbage (a savoy is the best), 3 onions, 2 good-sized carrots, 3 turnips, a small bunch of parsley and 2 leeks ; clean and wash them well ; when washed, pour boiling water over them and let them remain for 10 minutes, then strain aftd cut the vegetables small ; have ready a saucepan, put in it 2 tablespoonfuls of beef dripping and put it on the fire to melt, When the fat is melted put in the vegetables, stir them well until they begin to frizzle ; then add a quart of boiling water, a breakfast cupful of rice or barfey, salt and pepper. Let the soup simmer slowly until the vegetables are quite soft, then add a pint -of boiling water and let it simmer for three-quarters of an hour ; 4 potatoes can be added to the other vegetables if liked. This soup will bfe found excellent and SOUPS. 63 inexpensive, almost a dinner in itself. Without the rice, using butter 'instead of dripping, and adding a few potatoes, it will make anothel delicious soup. Cream Vegetable Soup. — Use only small and tender vegetables — i carrots, 2 parsnips, 2 green onions, a pint of green peas, a handful of green beans, 2 potatoes and 1 head of Cauliflower. Shell the peas, cut the rest in strips, boil in a little water till soft. IJeat 3 pints of milk, put in the vegetables with their water, salt, thicken with flour. When ready to serve put in a tablespoonful of butter. "Vegetable Cbowder.^^Fry 4 large slices of salt pork cut in dice. When the fat is extracted, fry in it 4 small onions till of a golden- brown. Mix this in layers with 2 quarts of potatoes peeled and sliced, sprinkling each layer with some pepper and salt, using one-half cup- ful of flour, 1 teaspoonful pepper and the same of salt. Cover with water and sinimer slowly .till potatoes are done, or about 30 minutes usually. Split 6 common crackers, and soak them in cold water 3 minutes. Lay in the chowder. Pour in 1 pint of milk. Cover and boil up once. Arrange the crackers around the edge of a large platter, and dish the chowder in the centre. Onion, or Mock Oyster Soup. — Boil one-half dozen onions in water enough to cover them. If strong boil a turnip with them — the turnip will absorb the strong^ taste. When they are boiled enough mash them through a colander. Then boil them again in a quart of sweet milk. Mix 1 teaspoonful of flour with 1 tablespoonful of butter and stir in the soup. Let it boil once thoroughly, and season with pepper7 salt and mace. Serve at once. Cream of Onion Soup. — Peel and cut into thin slices a dozen small white dnions, and fry tbem to a light brown in a tablespoonful of butter. Add to the onions a pint of sweet milk, a quart of boiling water, a saltspoonful of salt, the same quantity of white pepper, j4 teaspoonful of sugar, and a pinch of mace. Cook }4 hour very slowly and strain through a fine sieve. Add the yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten, and a cupful of cream. Serve immediately. Potato Onion Soup. — Slice 2 or 3 good-sized onions and fry them in a little butter until they are soft, then add 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until it il a little cooked,^but not brown. To this gradually add a pint of boiling water, or stock if you have it, stirring all the time so it shall be smooth. Boil and mash 3 good-sized pota- 64 SOUPS. toes and stir in them 1 quart of boiling milk. Stir the two mixtures together and season well. When very hot pour through a colander into a tureen. Sprinkle over the top a tablespoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and a little fried bread. Potato Cream Soup.^ — One quart ©f water, 1 pint of' raw sliced potatoes, butter size of an egg, salt and pepper to taste ; cover and cook until the potatoes are soft; add a well-beaten egg and }4 pint of creamy milk, let it boil again and stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smoothly with a little creamy milk. Serve hot with craqkers. ' Potato Soup. — Mash potatoes and season as for table, beating with a large fork until /'creamy." Use rich milkj to which add cream or a little butter, and heat two quarts. Stir the mashed pota^ toes in slowly, and when again cooked up, servfe in hot dishes with celery and hot buttered toast. As a substitute for oyster stew, when oysters are out of season (or out of " reach "), I know of nothing equal to this nourishing, yet delicate dish — some people preferring it to its ihore expensive prototype. ' Green Pea Soup. — Green peas make a, delicious soup. Boil 1 quart of peas in a quart of water for 20 minutes, mash, add a quart of milk, a tablespoonfiil of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour cooked in theAutter and stirred in the boiling soup, and salt and- pepper to taste. Let it just come to the boiling point and serve immediately. Any sweet herbs may be used in place of the pepper. Cream of Pea Soup. — Cook one-quarter peck of peas about 2 hours, reserve one-half cupful and press.the remainder through a sieve into the water in which they were boiled, and season^ Mix table- spoonful of butter and the same of flour, smooth it with a cup of hot milk and add it to the soup ; also add the half cup of peas and serve. Use more milk if preferredK_ Cream of Corn Soup. — Remove the corn from 1 can, cover with 3 cups of water ^nd ?immer for 1 hour. Strain, press through a sieve. Scald 3 cups of milk, add the corn and 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed sifiooth with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Mix until smooth ; season with salt, pepper and a few drops of celery extract. Add J cup of cream and stir until heated. Take from the fire, add the beaten yolk of an egg and serve at once. The egg or cream may be . omitted, but the soup is far more delicious with the addition of both. The corn from 1 2 ears equals 1 can. ^ SOUPS. 65 Canned Corn Soup. — Cook 1 pint of sliced potatoes until soft, and rub them through a colander. Stew 1 pint of canned gfeen corn in milk, rub through a colander and mix with the potatoes ; then add boiling milk to make the required consistency ; season with salt and- white pepper and serve. . Cream of Turnip Soup. — Take 6 new turnips cut in blocks; stew gently for half an hour in water enough to cover. Remove the turnips and press through a colander; return to the soup, which should be about 1 quart in quantity. Rub together -1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of flour ; stir into the soup. When it is boiling, add 1 cupful of hot milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat up an egg in the tureen and 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Pour it over the egg, stirring as it is poured, and serve. Okra Soup.-— Cut the okra in very thin slices, and throw into 1 J quarts of boiling salted water ; when tender add 1 quart of milk, a large tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and white pepper to taste. This soup must be made in a porcelain kettle. Bice Soup a la Creme. — Bbil a sliced onion and a bunch of celery tops in 2 quarts of water for 1 hour. Strain and add J cup of rice that has been carefully washed and looked over. Cook for three- quarters of an hour, stiri'ing often, or until the rice is well swollen anS tender. Just before serving, beat up in the tureen itself 1 egg with J tumblerful of rich milk — cream is better — and a pinch of nut- meg, if liked. Pour the boiling soup over this mixture from a height, beating it still with a whisk to mix all thoroughly, and sferve with toast squares. I/iebig's Rice Soup.— Cook 2 tablespoonfuls of the rice in 1 quart of water, with a small onion peeled and chopped and 1 bay leaf. Cook slowly 30 minutes. Take out the bay leaf, and add 2 teaspoonfuls of beef extract. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. . Almond Soup wit^i Rice.-—! cup of rice, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 5 pints of milk, | teaspooriful of s*lt, J pound almonds. Wash the rice, put in a farina boiler with 1 quart of milk. Cook slowly till every grain is tender. While the tks is cooking shell and blanch the almonds, chjop very fine and then pound them in a mortar, adding, a few drops at a time, J cup of milk, fbfiaing a smooth paste. Place She paste with the sugar and remaining quantity of milk in a. double COOK- 5 66 SOUPS. boiler and simmer for 30 minutes. When the rice is done, turn it carefully into the soup tureen, pour over it the almonds and milk, season with teaspoonful of salt and serve. Cauliflower Soup. — Cut; a medium-sized cauliflower into smalt- clusters, chop all except 2- bunches, and put all on the fire in 4 cups .of boiling water, with a minced onion and a couple of sprigs of pars- ley ; cook till tender. Remove the unchopped bunches and lay them aside whil? you rub the chopped and boiled portion through a colan- der ; return what comes through the sieve to the stove. Have ready in a double boiler 1 pint of scalding milk ; thicken this with a table- spoon of butter rubbed smooth with an equal quantity of flour, and mix with the strained cauliflower. Seasoh to taste, drop in the reserved clusters cut in small pieces, and serve the soup immediately. Chestnut Soup. — In a list of winter soups, that made from chest- nuts stands as a novelty. Peel about 60 chestnuts and blanch; until the inner skin c-aft be removed, then cook them gently in well-flavored stock until tender enough to rub through a sieve. Dilute with the liquor in which they were cooked and serve very hot, with croutons, or squares of tOast. Palestine Soup. — The Palestine Soup is made of Jerusalem arti^ chokes. Scrape a pound of the artichokes clean, and cut into slices. Fry 2 onions in a large tablespoonful of butter ; when brown add a dessert-spoonful of flour and a quart of water. Add the artichokes, a sprig of parsley' and a little celery. Boil until the vegetables are soft, and strain through a sieve. Return to the fire, add salt and white pepper to taste, and a pint of boiling cream or milk. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs thoroughly and add just before serving. It is best to place the beaten yolks in the soup tureen and pour the boiling soup on them. Serve with fried croutons of bread. This ■lyill be found deli- cious. Carrots may be substituted for the artichbkes. - Cream of Spinacli Soup. — fick over and wash 1 pound of spinach, put into a saucepan with a little water and cook until thoroughly done. When tender press through a fine sieve. Mix 1 ounce of butter and 1 ounce of flour in a saucepan, add the spinach cream, salt and pepper to taste ; add one quart of well-flavored soup stock. Let the soup come nearly to a boil, then remove from tjje fire and stir in the yolks of 2 eggs well beatenCup with a little lemon juice ; sea-^ son with salt and pepper. Serve with croutons. SOUPS. 67 Cream of Barley Soup. — Boil half a cup of barley in plenty of salted water; mix 2 tablespoonfuls of flour with a little cold water, stir in 2 quarts of boiling milk. Skim the barley into this ; add butter and salt. Cheese Soup. — Take bread cut into disc shape ; fry nicely brown in butter; put intp soup tureen. Now take a little more butter, a tablespoon of flour and fry brown, then thin tt with water or soup broth ; take qne-fourth pound Sweitzel- or Goshen cheese, cut into very thin shreds, mb^ into soup ; let boil until cheese is tender; saft to taste. Beat an egg and stir it in soup. When serving, pour over fried bread. Pistachio Soup. — The pistachio soup is a cream soup flavored with pistachio nuts and colored with spinach.' To make the soup, first put one pint of milk over the fire in a double boiler, and add to it one ounce of chopped pistachio nuts made almost as fine as a powder and one-half teaspoonful of almond paste. Mix well and boil twenty minutes. Pick over one pint of spinach that is as fresh and green as you can get it. Pick oiit the' stems and ribs of the leaves, and boil that which_is left in enough boiling salted water to cover it. When tender drain and .chop very fine ; then press to a pulp with a potato masher. Add the spinach to the soup, mix thor- oughly, then add one tablespoonful of butter. Moistefa a tablespoon- ful of arrow root with a little cold water, add a little of the hot liquid toit, and then stir into the soup and cook it until it is as thick as a -thin cream. Just before serving add one-half teaspoonful of pepper, salt, and a dash of white pepper. Very nice to serve at a green luncheon. Bouille.--The, French make a most acceptable soup for summer weathej of thickened milk, which they call bouille. Put two table- spoonfuls of the finest wheat flour, a dessertspoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of salt in a saucepan, and mix it to a smooth paste with a little inilk. When this is thoroughly smooth enough extra milk is added to make in all a quart. A New England housekeeper would cook this soup in a double boiler, but the French housekeeper simply boils it over the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring it all the time. Nothing could be simpler than this served with little sippets of well- browned toast and a dash of pepper. The hot millj is stimulating and yet delicate, and gives just the soup one requires for a warm day. Oysters are not good unless they close firmly on the knife when beihg opened. If they can be opened easily or hold themselves open in the least, they are not fit to uSe. Oysters should be carefully chosen; large, extra and firm-fleshed bivalves arenas necessary for stews as for fries or roasts., They should never be plunged in hot water to increase their size, as this can only be done at a great loss in flavor. . Oysters in the shell may be kept a fortnight at the very least by spreading them upon the cellar floor with the rounding part of the shell down, and sprinkling them well with salt and Indian meal. Cover them with two or three folds of a blanket or old carpeting, and keep this well saturated with cold water. Repeat the sprinkling with irieal and salt every day, and see that the covering is thoroughly wet. Oysters'kept in this manner will be found in a most satisfactory con- dition. ' * In cases where butter is given to be used with oysters, many pre- fer olive oil. Use, but half the quantity that you would of butter? Use the very largest oysters for frying and broiling, the medium for raw and soup, and the smallest for scallops, croquettes, and, pies. JEvery oyster should be looked at that no bits of shell remain attached to it. This is a very important matter, and should npt be neglected. All fried articles may be reheated on paper in a very hot oven, and they will taste as though just fried. Soft bread crumbs are made from bread which is several days old, buf has not been dried in the oven. Oysters. Raw Oysters. — ^A nice way to serve raw oyste^rs is to take a block of clear ice, 20 to 25 pounds, melt a hollow in the top by heating a brick or a flat-iron and placing on the ice, melting a hollow deep enough to hold the oysters. Place the ice on a platter covered" with a napkin to prevent slipping and to absorb the water. Arrange smilax 68 " • SHELL FISH. 69 or ferns or parsley around the edge of the platter. To make it more attractive, make some holes in the sides, in irregular spots with a hot poker, and put in ferns, etc. Drain the oysters after carefully picking' them over, season with salt and white pepper. A garnish of slices of lemon is an addition and should be served with them, as some prefer lemon to vinegar. This is especially nice for a center piece at an en- tertainment. In large cities ice moulds of different varieties are frozen^ to order and furnished by caterers. ' Raw Oysters. — II. If to be served at a table they should be brought on in a deep dish, accompanied by a dish of lemons, cut in quarters. Serve in small plates, half a dozen oysters to each person, with a piece of lemon in the center. Salt, pepper and vinegar should' be provided. Lemon juice is sometimes served in place of vinegar. Oysters on~the Half Shell. — The oysters must be small and as fresh as can be procured. Fill a soup plate full of fine cracked ice ; lay over this a small fringed doily. Clean the shells of the oysters, open them carefully, taking pains not to lose their juice, set the half shell firmly into the doily-covered ice, cut a lemon in four, lay one- quarter in. the middle of the circle of oysters. In this way the oysters are chilled, the under folded part of the napkin will absorb the water, thus preventing the danger of soiling the table linen. ' ' Oysters on the Half Shell. — II. Allow six oysters to each per« son. Wash the shells v/ell ; open them parefully ; take off the upper shell, detach the oyster from the under shell, but leave it there. Put six on an oyster, or round plate, and serve with a piece of lemon in the centre of the dish. With the oysters serve horse-radish, black and red pepper and thin slices of buttered graham bread. Sauce for Raw Oysters, — Take 1 heaping tablespoonful of finely chopped shallot, 1 teaspoonful of chives, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1 of white pepper, crushed, 5 tablespoonfuls' of best tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonfulof lime juice; mix thoroughly and let stand for 1 hour be- fore serving. This sauce was the invention of a New York epicure, to add a flavor to the somewhat insipid taste of raw oysters. The amount given above is sufficient for eight persons, and is to spread over them as soon as served. Oyster Stew. — Drain the liquor from a quart of oysters and put it in a saucepan over the fire, and when at boiling point skim carefully. Place a quart of milk in a double boiler, and when ^t jaegins to boil 70 SHELL FISH. add the oyster liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3 tablespootifuls of rolled crackers, and the oysters. Salt and pepper to suit the taste. Let.them boil up once and they are ready to serve. Plain Oyster Stew. — Same as milk or cream stew, using only oyster liquor instead of milk or cream, adding more butter after .tak- ing up. Dry Oyster Stew. — Take 6 to 12 large oysters and cook them in 1 half pint of their own liquor for 5 minutes, seasoning with butter and white pepper and stirring constantly. - Serve in hot oyster scallops or bowls. Oysters Stewed with Celery. — Put 1 pint of strong clear beef soup-stock in a large stew-pan. Instead of milk use sweet cream. Of this cream add 1 pint to the broth in the stew-pan, also 4 table- spoonfuls of the best table butter, 1 teaspoonful of salt,, one of white pepper, 1 of ground mace, and 1 of celery extract. If celery, can be had in the stalk, chop up fine and use instead. No more delicate or healthful flavor -can be added to any soup, stew or broth than this. While this is cooking dredge in finely powdered cracker dust and a little of the best corn-starch flour, until thickened to your taste. JSave ready in a hot tureen 50 of the best-oysters, parboiled in their own juice. Pour over these the sauce compounded as above and serve immediately. , Oyster Egg Stew. — Put a pint of oysters over the fire, with a little of their own liquor, a pinch of salt, same of pepper and a tea- spoonful of butter; as soon as the beards begin to open and the juice boils, take them out, add half a pint of sauce, made with a spoonful each of flour and a cup of milk, veal stock or half milk and half oys- ter liquor, a tablespoonful of butter cut in bits ; stir all for 2 minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Then add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Many prefer oysters welJ done, in which case cook 5 minutes. Creamed Oysters. — To one-half tablespoonful of butter, melted in a saucepan, add one heaping tablespoonful of flour. Cook a few moments, and stir in gradually one cup of hot milk. Season with salt, pepper and 1 feaspoonful of celery salt. _ Wash and pick over carefully 1 pint of fine oysters, boil them in their own liquor until plump, drain, and pour over thern the sauce. Oyster Bisque. — Oyster bisque is delicious. . One pint of chicken or veal stock (the liquor in which chickens have been boiled is excel- SHELL FISH. 71 lent for this purpose), 1 pint of oysters, 1 cup of milk, 2 eggs, salt, p^per, chopped parsley, 1 heaping cup of bread crumbs and 1 great spoonful of butter rubbed in 1 of flour. Strain the stock and set over the fire with the crumbs in a farina kettle. In another vessel heat tlie oyster liquor, and -when it simmers add the oysters chopped fine ; cook all 20 minutes. In a third vessel scald the milk, stir into this the floured butter, boil up sharply and pour upon the beaten eggs. Set in hot water while you turn the oysters and liquor into the kettle containing the. stock and crumbs, and cook together before putting in the parsley and other seasoning. Finally pour in milk and eggs, after which" the soup must not boil, but stand in hot water 3 minutes. Serve promptly in a hot tureen, with a pinch of cayenne. Oyster Chowder. — For those wh& like onions : Peel, and cut in small pieces 2 medium-sized onions ; fry in plenty of butter to a light brown; pare and slice about 4 potatoes and boil in just enough water to cover till almost done, then add the onions and about a pint of milk; let come to a boil; thicken with a little flour, pepper and salt and butter to taste, then add a pint of oysters and boil up onfae more. Oyster Chowder. — II. Three slices of pickled pork, 2 onions, 3 potatoes, 2 dozen crackers, 5 dozen oysters, 1 quart of milk and, sea- soning. Boil the pork, onions and potatoes together until nearly done. Put into the pot the oysters, milk, crackers and seasoning. Boil a few minutes. Scalloped Oysters. — :To scallop oysters 1 quart of solid dysters is required for a dish that will hold two quarts. Butter the dish and put on the bottom a layer of oysters. Cover them with a layer of rolled crackers or bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper and pieces of butter, and alternate until the dish is filled, using the crumbs for the last layer, moisten well with the oyster, liquor. Pour over all the liquor, and if there is not enough to moisten well, add a cupful of cream. Bake one-half hour and serve hot. Be sure the top is a nice brown. It is better to cover the dish a while at first to keep it from browning tbo quickly. If the oyster liquor is not liked, use milk alone for moistening. ; , Scalloped Oysters.— II. Crush and roll several handfuls of crack- ers. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered pudding-dish. Wet this with a mixture of the oyster liquor and milk. Next, have a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay small bits of but- 72 SHELL FISH. ter upon them. Then another layer of moistened crumbs, and so on until the dish is full. Let the top layer be of crumbs, thicker than the rest, and beat an- egg into the milk you pour over them. Stick bits of butter thickly over it, cover the dish, set it in the oven, bake half an hour; if the dish be large, remove the cover, and brown by setting it upon the upper grating of oven. Scalloped Oysters with Hard-BoUed Hggs. — Chop 6 hard-boiled eggs fine. Add these to 1 pint of bread crumbs. Season with one- half teaspoonful of *salt and one-quarter te^spoonfui of white pepper. Put a layer of this mixture in the bottom of a well-buttered pudding dish, then a layer of oysters, alternating until the dish is full, and haying the crumbs for the last layer. Take 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter, cut in bits and dot over the top. Pour in the oyster liquor and bake in a quick oven for 30 minutes. Serve hot. *!. Milk can be used instead" of the oyster liquor, if liked. Fried Oysters. — Only the large selects are fit for frying, Dfy ^ them on a folded towel, laying in rows upon one end and pressing, the other end upon them to absorb the moisture. Beaf 2 eggs light about ten minutes; add a pinch of salt; have ready a bowl of cracker crumbs (use thin soda crackers), about one-half pound, and roll upon the molding board until fine; put one-half of the cracker dust one side, and use the other half for the first laying in of the oysters ; take each oyster and roll it in the cracker dust and arrange upon a plate ; after aU the oysters are thus rolled take each one and dip with a fork carefiilly into the egg, and from there lay into the second half of rolled cracker, putting them each one upon a plate. Have the lard, or but- ter and lard mixed, smoking hot, and drop in the oysters, one by one, with a fork. As fast as one side of an oyster is done turn over. Take out with a fork. A quicker way is to put several in a wire frying basket and immerse it in the ,hot fat. Serve very hot and garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Drain for a moment upon coarse brown paper before serving. Epicures prefer to fry oysters in salad oil rather thati butter ; if you have a large quantity to -fry, they may- be dipped ah hour or two before serving time, and spread on a clean cloth in a cool place. They may also be drained, dipped in seasoned corn meal and fried in lard. The oyster liquor may be utilized by stirring into a batter, with some of the seasoned corn meal, and dropped by spoonfuls into the hot lard to fry as mock oysters. SHELL FISH. 73 Oysters Fried in Batter. — Drain the oysters and then dip into a batter made of two eggs beaten light, one cup of milk, and floar enough to form a soft batter, and season with pepper and salt. Put equal quantities of butter and lard into a spider, and let the mixture be. smoking hot before you put in the oysters. Do not crowd them. Turn them so as to cook both sides a delicate brown. Serve very hot ' and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. What is left of the batter can be dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat and fried like croquettes and served with the oysters. - Restaurant Fried Oysters. — In the first place, avoid cracker crumbs. They are pasty.- Instead, put some stale bread in the oven to diy, and after it is thoroughly hard and dry grate it finely and keep the crumbs in a glass jar, so that if any are left they can be kept for future use. Then beat together an egg and a cup of sweet milk, sea- soning with salt, pepper, and, if liked, a little Worcester sauce. Be sure not to beat the egg separately. Dip the oysters first in their own liquid, then in the crumbs,' then in the egg and milk and lastly in the crumbs again. Then comes the actual frying, which is the crucial point. The secret of success is to have plenty of fat and have it boiling laot. Let them brown quickly and delicately on both sides. Drain on brown paper and serve. Large oysters are not especially desirable, except for looks. The 'small ones taste quite as good. Cooks in restaurants^ have a trick of putting two small ones toge1:her in " dipping " before frying. Quick Fried Oysters. — Break an egg in a bowl and beat well ; then turn in one-half pint of oysters, liquid and all. Be careful to remove any bits of shell ; stir into this enough finely rolled cracker crumbs to thicken. Heat butter and lard, half and half, in a frying pan. Mix the oysters and crackers thoroughly, turn all into the fry- ing pan and level it like a large thick griddle-cake. Fry brown on one side and then turn and brown the other side. Be careful not to burn. Have it rather moist, but if you chance to get in too many cracker crumbs add a spoonful of milk. ' Fried Oysters witli Mushrooms. — Fry the oysters after any pre- ferred recipe. Take mushrooms and cut them down to the stem. Place them in a baking pan with a small piece of butter and put them in the oven for about five minutes. Put them on a flat di^h and put the oysters on top, garnish with parsley and serve. 74 SHELL FISH. Panned Oysters. — For panning oysters in the following way, use patty pans, scallop plates or small deep china saucers. Cut pieces of thin toast to fill the bottom, butter them well, pour a tablespoonful of well-seasoned oyster juice upon each piece, dip the oysters jn their liquor and put a double layer of them upon each piece of toast. Place a morsel of butter upon the top, put all into a baking pan, cover and set in a quick oven to bake 8 or 10 minutes. Serve with small bits of lemon to each pan. Send hot to the table in the pans. - | Panned Oysters. — II. Put a sufficient quantity of very fine oys- ters in a pan together with their own juice. Add 1 tablespoonful of the best butter, a little black pepper and a pinch of salt. Sprinkle a quantity of fine cracker crumbs" over the top. Place over a quick fire. When the oysters begin to swell they are done. Serve- instantly. The crumbs can be omitted. Pan Boast. — ^A pan roast is very nearly as delicious as oysters roasted in the shell. Drain the oysters. Put an iron frying pan over a quick fire to heat ; as soon as it is hissing hot throw in the oysters and shake and stir until they boil ; then add salt, pepper and a piece of butter the size of a walnut for 25 oysters. Serve in a hot dish im- mediately. These are very nice, retaining all the natural oyster flavor. Baked Oysters. — ^Take nice large oysters in the shell. Wash and scrub the shells until free from sand. Now place them in a baking pan, put in a very quick oven (400 degrees Fahrenheit), and bake until they open their shells. Now remove the upper shells, put a small bit Df butter on each oyster, sprinkle lightly with salt and cayenne and serve in the under shells. Baked Oysters.— II. Open the shells, keeping the deepest one fbr use. Melt some butter and season with finely chopped parsley and pepper. When slightly cool roll each oyster in it, using care that it drips as little as possible. Lay the oysters in the shells, and add .to each a little lemon juice. Cover with bread crumbs, and place the shells-in a dripping pan and bake^in a quick oven. Serve in the shells. Steamed Oysters.. — Buy the oysters unopened, wash thoroughly, using a brush or coarse cloth; place them separately in the steamer, or in a large sieve put on top of a large pot of boiling water. The deep shell must be undermost in order that no juice may be wasted. As soon as the oysters open they are done and should be served at once with pepper, salt, butter, etc., to taste. SHELL FISH. 75 Steamed Oysters. — IL Drain the oysters and put them in a dish in a steamer over boiling water. Cover closely and steam until they are plump and the edges muffled. Season with salt and pepper; let them stand a moment longer, then serve on rounds of buttered toast. Fricassee of Oysters. — Twenty-five oysters, 1 large tablespoon- ful of butter, 1 large tablespoonful of flour, one-half pint of milk, 1 beaten egg, 1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Salt and cayenne tp taste. Boil the oysters in their own liquor ; drain. , Put the butter in a frying pan, and when melted add the flour ; mix until smooth. Now add the milk, stir until it boils ; add the oysters and a half cup of the liquor, salt and cayenne, and stii=^ again until it boils. Take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs lightly beaten and the parsley ; serve at ojjce. Broiled Oysters. — For broiling choose large, fat oysters, and wipe each one with a soft cloth. Sprinkle salt and cayenne pepper upon them, and dip in melted butter. Roll each one in cracker dust. But- ter Tvell a fine wire.double broiler, and lay on it the oysters. Let the fire be hot and clear. Serve very hot on round pieces of toast, but- tered. Keep the broiler expressly for oysters. If meat is broiled on it, it will impart an unpleasant taste. Some cooks oriiit the crumbs, dipping simply in melted butter. The oysters can be served with a sauce, as follows : — Sauce : Simmer togej:her the liquor, a bit of but- ter, and enough flour to thicken to the consistency of the cream. Maitre de Hotel sauce can be served if liked. Macaroni and Oysters. — Break into 2-inch lengths 4 ounces of macaroni; put it in boiling water ; boil rapidly for 20 minutes ; drain. Drain 25 oysters, -put a layer of macaroni in bottom of baking dish, then a layer of oysters, a dust of salt and pepper, and so continue until the materials are used ; cover the top with bread crumbs, put a few bits of butter over the top, and brown in the oven 20 minutes. Add the strained oyster liquor to moisten, and a cupful of milk. Spaghetti and Oysters. — One quart of oysters and 1 cupful of spaghetti, broken in half-inch pieces. Boil the spaghetti in boiling salted water for 30 minutes. Drain and stir in a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a suspicion of cayenne. Grease a baking dish and put a layer of this in the bottom, then a layer of oysters ; sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, to taste, and add a few small pieces of butter, then another layer of spaghetti and oysters, having the top 76 SHfiLL FISH. layer spaghetti, with a sprinkling of grated cheese. Bake in a mod* erate oven 20 minutes and serve. Oysters and Rice. — Wash 1 pint of rice, put it into a double boiler, and salt to taste ; add the strained liquor from one quart of oystersj stir occasionally while cooking; when done and while hot add one-quarter pound of butter, beat 2 eggs separately, and when cool stir them in ; butter a pudding dish and put the rice into it ; it should be 1^ inches deep; spread the oysters over the rice ; salt and pepper and cover with bits of butter, sprinkle over the oysters 1 large cup of fine cracker dust and more butter in bits; brown quickly in a hot oven and serve at once. Curried Oysters. — Drain the juice from 1 pint of oysters, put in a saucepan on the fire, let it come to a boil and skim ;"put into another saucepan tTi(o ounces of butter, one small onion, cut into thin strips. As soon as the onion is a golden brown add to it 1 teaspoonful of flour. Stir until it is a smooth paste, turn in one-half pint of the oys- ters that have been boiled, 1 teaspoonful of curry powder. Allow it to first boil. Strain into a double boiler and put it where it will keep warm. Wipe off 1 pint of oysters, brush with butter a hot griddle, place the oysters on it, and as soon as they begin tp curl turn them over. When donp add them to the sauce and serve immediately. Oyster Vol au Vent. — This is delicious, and when carefully pre- pared makes an excellent entree. Blanch and drain 50 Oysters, soak a pair of sweetbreads in cold water for an hour, remove the skin, fat and other impurities, and put over the fire with a pint of boiling water salted^and spiced to taste ; boil 1 minute, take them off and drop in cold water. Quarter them and put into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, a gill of cream and two sakspoonfuls of salt. Stew until the sweetbreads are cooked, and add 4 ounces of butter, rubbed into 2 of flour; add oysters, give one boil, fill either the individual pastry shells with the mixture, with a ladleful of sauce over each, or put all in a large vol au vent case, which can be ordered from the baker, or simply serve in a heated china dish. Oysters on Toast. — Select 12 fresh, plump oysters. Have ready delicately browned toast, moistened in hot milk, and well buttered.. Put the oysters with their own liquor in a stew-pan ; season with a little black pepper, one-half blade of mace, and one-h|lf teacup of rich cream. Let this boil until the oysters swell. Remove and place upon. SHELL FISH. 77 the hot toast, enriching with bits of fresh butter. Rub 1 teaspoonful of butter and 1 teaspoonful of flour together, stir this into the boiling oyster liquor. Then pour it over th? toast and oysters, which must be kept very hot. For a larger_quantity, 1 quart of oysters and their liquor to one pint of cream or rich milk. Oysters on Toast.— H. {Without Milk). — Strain the oyster liquor, rinse the bifs of shell from the oysters, turn the liquor back upon them, and put iin a stew-pan, set them where they will boil up. Salt, pepper and butter to your taste. Have ready nicely-browned , toast, previously moistened in boiling water and well buttered. Arrange this in a dish and pour over it the boiling oysters, and serve at once. If this gravy is too rich, add a little water to the oyster liquor. Serve walnut catsup or vinegar with them. Oysters on Crackers. — Split common crackers, butter and brown crisply ; then on each half cracker put as many oysters as will cover the surface, well sprinkled with salt and pepper ; set in the oven until the oysters grow plump. Griddled Oysters. — Have the griddle heated the same as for griddle cakes. Wipe the oysters dry. Now spread them on a clean towel and place on a large plate. Have on a dish as many slices of buttered toast as there are persons to serve. Take 1 tablespoonful of butter for every dozen oysters. Drop a piece of butter about the size of a large pea on the hot griddle and immediately drop an oyster on this butter. Continue this work rapidly until the oysters are on the griddle. Now come back to the first one. ,Drop a bit of butter near it, then slip a knife under the oyster and lift it from the griddle, with the brown crust that has formed under it. Turn it over on the fresh bit of butter and continue in this way until all have been turned. Then, beginning with the first oyster, take off all and place them on the toast. The entire worjc must be done rapidly or the oysters will be cooked too much. Never try the shorter way of buttering the entire griddle at once; if you do you will have burned butter, which will destroy the true flavor of the oysters. GriUed Oysters. — Same as Griddled Oysters. Oyster Patties. — Make tart shells in small patty-pans as for fruit tarts, and fill with bysters prepared as follows : Take 1 quart of oys- ters, place in a large baking dish with butter, pepper and saltto taste. Bake Hntil the oysters curl. In th« meantime put in a saucepan 1 78 SHELL FISH. pint of milk. When this scalds, add 1 large teaspoonful of corn starch moistened with cold milk ; let boil, season with salt and a , tablespoonful of butter. A dash of cayenne improves the flavor. The gravy should be quite thick. To this mixture add the oysters, but do not let them boil. Spread a napkin over a platter. Fill the patty-shells and serve at once. These patties may be changed by filling the patty-pans with raw paste, pouring in the above mixture, covering the top of- each one thickly with fine bread crumbs, dot- ting it with bits of butter, and baking in the oven until the crust is done. Serve in the same manner. Milk may be omitted in this last way and the oyster liquor simply seasoned \iighly with salt, pepper and butter, thickened with corn starch, scalded and poured over the oysters, and the patties filled as before. Oyster Patties. — IL Put into a saucepan 1 tablespoonful of butter, a dash of pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, and a teacupful of cracken; crumbs. When thoroughly mixed add 1 pint of chopped oysters^ simmer for 10 minutes; pour into shells; sprinkle with cracker crumbs. Place in the oven for about 3 minutes. Serve hot. - Oyster Pates.~One pint of cream, 1 quart of oysters, 1 tabte-.- spoonful of flour, yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste, let the cream come to a boil, mix the flour with a little cold milk and stir into the boiling cream and add the seasoning ; let the oysters come to a boil in their own liquor, drain and put each oyster into 3 or 4 pieces, add them to the cream and boil up once ; then add the beateiv yolks, have the patty-shells baked ; fill with the mixture and serve. This makes 20 shells. Bake /the shells in patty-pans, use rich puff paste. It is nice to bake small rounds for covers also. Heat the shells if they are not freshly baked. Put on the covers and set in the oven fof 4 or 5 miiuites. Oyster Pates.-^II. Stew some oysters in a little of their own liquor, add cream,,butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt. Let coql. Have shells of puff paste, or little cases, prepared, lay two or three oysters in each, and pour in the gravy. Mushi^oom and Oyster Pates.^One can select oysters, put in a strainer and drain liquor off; ©ne-half can of mushrooms cut rather SHELL FISH. 79 Iftlall, according to size, pour juice of both together, one tablespoon- ful of capers chopped fine, 2 spriga. of parsley. When this is pre- pared put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a stew-pan. When melted add as much flour as it will absorb, stir into a smooth white roux, pour the liquor in gradually until a very thick broth is obtained. Stir continually, as some cans of oysters do not ha,ve much juice, add a little water, not too much ; if the roux is too thin, the oysters will draw; salt and pepper to taste, add a few drops of lemon juice just before serving. If for an oyster pie,.throw in all together and fill pie immediately. Bake 15 minutes in a hot oven. If for patties, let all be hot before putting in cases. ' Oysters a la Ifewburg'. — Put 25 oysters over the fire in their own liquor, stir carefully until they come to a boiling point, drain carefully, put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, add a tablespoonful. of 'flour, mix. Add a gill of cream, and when boiling add the yolks of 2 eggs and the oysters. Bring again to a boiling point, season^ and turn into a dish. Sprinkle over 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry and garnish with, tiny crackers. If wine is not used, the same quantity of- lemon juice may be substituted. Potato Oyster Pats.— Peel and boil 12 potatoes, mash fine, salt to taste, add piece of butter the size of an egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet cream ; beat lightly ; when cold work into pats, putting 2 oys- ters into each ; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker meal ; put butter on the top of each ; bake a light brown in quick oven. Oysters a la Poulette. — Wash a solid quart of oysters in their own liquor and drain in a colander._ When well drained set aside. Strain the liquor and put half a pint into a saucepan. When it boils skim carefully, and stir into it a heaping teaspoonful of flour, mixed smooth, in 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Let it boil 5 minutes. Pour a quart of cream into a double boiler, and when it begins to boil add the thickened oyster liquor, and season with salt, pepper, a slight grating of nutmeg and a dash of cayenne. Have ready the well* beaten yolks of 4 eggs, and add to them half a cup of cold cream. Turn the oysters into the boiling mixture, together with a tablespoon- ful of butter and the egg mixture. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring all the time. Remove from the fire immediately,, and serve with a border of puff paste cakes. If liked, a tablespoonful of lemon juice or a wine glass of sherry naay be added, just as the oysters are 80 , SHELL FISH. taken from the fire. Two beaten eggs can be used instead of the 4 egg yolks. Oyster Griddle Cakes. — Two scant cups of sifted flour and 2 scant teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a little salt and sift twice, always twice. Mix with sweet milk, and a teaspoonful of sweet thick cream; if thin cream use 2 teaspoonfuls. Do not have the batter too thick. Dot the griddle all over with a little, not nearly as much as for regu- lar griddle cakes ; lay an oyster on each cake ; salt and pepper; cover with a little more of the batter, and cook rather slowly until a nice brown. Turn and drain the oysters. Grease the griddle well each frying. Warm the plates. Eat hot with butter. Another batter to be used the same way : Two eggs (to a pint of oysters), 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half tea- spoonful of salt. Thin with the oyster liquor and milk until thick enough to drop froiii the spoon. \ Oyster and Mushroom Bag'out. — A ragout of oysters is con- sidered by many the most savory way fo prepare them. Boil 25 oysters in their liquor for 1 minute and drain, saving the liquor. Let cold watdr run over the oysters, remove the hard parts, or eyes, and throw them away. Peel a pint of fresh mushrooms, cut them in pieces and simmer for 5 minutes with 2 ounces of butter, season with salt and pep- per, add the oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor, a gill of thick, sweet, hot cream, and a teaspoonful of butter cut into small bits and rolled in flour. Let them boil up once and serve in individual dishes. Oyster Pie. — Line a deep dish with nice paste, dredge the crust with flour, pour in 1 pint of oysters. Season well with butter, salt and pepper, sprinkling flour over all. Pour cm a little of the oyster liquor. Cover with a crust. Two hard-boiled eggs chopped coarsely and mixed with the oysters, will be found a desirable addition. The eggs and the flour may be omitted and a cup of cracker crumbs used instead One-half teaspoonful of mace is liked by some. Ssi've as an entree. Veal and Oyster Pie. — One pound and a half of veal cutlets, three- quarters of a pound of ham, 60 oysters, a cupful of weak gravy or bj-oth, the peel of half a lemon ; pepper, salt and puff paste. Cut the veal into small, neat cutlets and spread over each a thin lay^r of minced ham; season them with pepper, salt and grated lemon peel, and roll each cutlet round. Line the sides of, a pie dish with good paste, put a layer of rolled veal at the bottom, then a layer of oysters, SHELL FISH. -81 ithen another layer of veal and a layer of oysters; on top dredge each layer with a little flour. Pour over it a gravy made of a cupful of weak gravy or broth, the grated peel of half a lemon, the oyster liquor strained and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Put a crust over the top, Ornament it in any way you please; egg it over and bake in a moderate oven lyi hours. , Boston Oyster Pie. — Line a deep pie plate with puff paste,, or ordinary pie past^. Fold a clean towel and put into the dish to sup- port the lid, and place over it a sheet of paste for said lid. Bake the paste well. When done remove the lid and take out the towel. In the meantime drain the oysters, carefullystrain the liquor and put the oysters in a stew pan with just enough of the liquor to keep them from burning. Season with pepper, salt and butter. Add a little sweet cream or milk and a couple of crackers rolled fine. Let the oysters simmer, but not boil. Remove the upper crust of pastry, fill the dish with the oysters and gravy, replace the cover and serve the whole hot. The upper crust can be baked separately on a pie plate same size as the pie and then used for a cover. Liittle Oyster Pies. — Take the small pie plates half the size of ordinary pie plates, line with puff paste, lay on 5 or 6 large oysters, or enough smaller ones to cover the bottom. Do}; with bits of butter and season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Make an egg batter as for Oyster Griddle Cakes, and pour over the oysters. Bake in a hot oven 20 minutes. Some cooks cover the whole with a crust of the paste, prickiiig it with a fork, and bake until a delicate brown. These are really to be served individually, and are more appropriate to a restaurant than a private family. A large pie cpuld be made in the same manner. Oysters au Beurre TSoiv. — Place 1 pint of oysters in a saucepan %nd sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and allow them to plump in their own liquor, tossing lightly with a fork. In another pan put, 2 tablespoons of butter and stir until it browns (not burns), then add third of a cup of vinegar, and when hot pour over the oysters (draining them first) and serve at once with thin points of dry toast. Curled Oysters. — Put slices of generously buttered toast in a dripping-pan ; pour over them a quai-t of oysters, season with salt and pepper. Put in the upper part of a very hot oven and bake until the oysters begin to shrivel. COOK— 6 82 SHELL FISH. Oyster Loaf.— Prain 50 good, fat oysters. Put them over the fire, watch carefully to a boil. Drain, add to the liquor sufficient milk to make 1 pint. Rub together 2 tablespoonfuls butter and. 2 of flour. Add milk and the oyster liquor. When^ boiling add oysters, 1 beaten egg, a tablespoonful of parsley, and a^^palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Serve hot in a boat made from stale bread nicely fried. To make a boat use half a loaf stale bread from which the middle has been taken, brush, with melted butter and put in a quick oven until a light brown. ,^ ■'#■ Oyster lidaf. — II. Cut the tops from the requisite number of small French joUs ; brush over with melted butter and set in the oven to brown while you prepare the oysters. Allow 3 large oysters for each roll ; bring them to the boil in their liquor ; lift out and thicken the liquor with a white roux of butter and flour; add a gill pf cream and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne, with a dash of nutmeg. This sauce must be very thick ; -lay in the oysters ; fill the rolls with: the mixture; set on the tops and serve at once. Roux is a. creamy mixture of butter and flour melted together. Instead of the rolls, cases may be prepared as follows; Cut a long: loaf of bread into slices aboi|t 2 inches thick, a baker's 5 cent loaf will make 6. Now trim off the crust and make each piece square. Dig the crumb out of the centre pf each piece, leaving sides and, bottom like a box — that is, make a square box out pf each slice of bread. Brush each bax over with nielted butter and put in .a quick oven until a light brown. Fill with the above mixture., Cronstade of Oysters. — ^Take a stale loaf of bread. ' If home- made, bake a loaf for the purpose in a 2 quart basin. When ready for use, with a sharp knife remove the heart of the bread, working carefully not to break the crust. Break up the crumbs very fine ahd dry slowly in the oven ; then quickly fry 3 cupfuls of them in 2 table- spoonfuls of butter until crisp and golden brown, stirring all the time; 2 minutes will usuallybe enough time. Put 1 quart of cream (if you have it, or, wanting' that, the richest milk you can get) on to boil. Just as it boils stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of -flour mixed smooth in half a cup of cold milk. Boil 8 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Put a layer of this sauce in the cronstade, then a layer of oysters, which, dredge well with salt and pepper; then another layer , of sauce and one of fried crumbs. Continue this SHELL FISH. 83 until the cronstade is nearly full, having the last layer a thick one of crumbs. Bake slowly half an hour ; garnish with parsley. It takes 1)4 B»nts of oysters and about 3 teaspoonfuls of salt and half a tea- spoonful of pepper. Pickled Oysters. — Put 100 large oysters, with the liquor, into a porcelain-lined kettle. Heat slowly until the oysters are very hot, but not boiling. Take them out with a skimmer* and set aside in a stone jar to cool. To the liquor which remains in the kettle add 1 pint of vinegar, 1 ounce of whole mace, the same quantity of whole cloves, and 2 large red peppers, cut into pieces. When it comes to a boil pour over the oysters. Coyer the jar and put in a cool place. The following day put the pickled oysters into pint glass jars and seal. The air, like the light, will turn them dark, so keep the jars in a dark, cool place. Will keep 2 or 3 weeks. To be eaten cold. Deviled Oysters. — To devil oysters in their shells,' select large ones, and when_opened keep them in their deep shells with the liquor. Place the shells on a gridiron, season with cayenne pepper and salt, placing a small piece of butter on the top of each oyster. Have your fire bright, and a few minutes will suffice to cook them. Deviled Oysters. — II. Twenty-five nice fat oysters, half pint of cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 table- spoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of 2 eggs, salt and cayenne peppeir to. taste. Drain the oysters and chop them middling fine and drain again. Put the cream on to boil. Rub the butter and flour together- and stir into the cream when boiling. As soon as it thickens take it from the fire and add all the other ingredients. Beat the yolks before adding them. Have the deep shells of the oysters washed periectly , clean, fill them with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, put them in a baking pan and brown in a quick oven for 5 minutes. Serve in the shells, garnish with parsley. They may be cooked in clam or silver scallop shells, but are much better done in their own shells, as there is a flavor imparted by the heated shell which greatly enriches the mixture. A word of caution — avoid long cooking, as it makes them dry. If your oven will not brown them in 5 or 6 minutes, and you have no salamander, heat your fire shovel red-hot. Take the shells from the oven, hold the shovel over them until they brown. These may be prepared sevei^ai hours before they are wanted and placed in the oven and brpwn^d ^ 84 SHELL FISH. serving time. One-half teaspoonful dry mustard is a spicy addition to the seasoning. Instead of thickening the preparation with flour, ?ome cooks use for this amount of oysters, half cupful of rolled cracker crumbs omitting the eggs and" adding the butter to the crumbs and stirring into the boiling cream. Cook in same manner. Stuffed Oysters. — Wipe and season large oysters with salt and pepper; roll them in cracker dust; spread half the oysters with force- meat; cover these with the remaining oysters; press them together gently; roll them in the crumbs again and fry in the usual way. Serve on a folded napkin, with lemon points. ' A bread, dressing sea- soned with onions and mixed with egg may be used. Stuffed Oysters. — II. A delicious, but troublesome method of serving this dish. For 24 large oysters take for force-meat the breast of a fowl, chopped, pounded and rubbed fine. One-fourth of a cupful of cream or miljc, eighth of a cupful of stale bread crumbs free of crust, the Hrhite of 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a tiny bit of white pepper and a slight grating of nutmeg.- Put the bread and cream in a small saucepan and cook until a smooth paste is formed. Take this paste from the fire and add the seasoning, chicken and the tirhite of the egg well beaten. Mix all well and set away to cool. £)ry the oysters on a soft towel and. season theni well with salt and pepper. Now i-oll them in fine bread crumbs and lay them on a large dish. Divide the forcemeat into 12 parts and spread evenly on 12 oysters. lAy the other 12 oysters on the first dozen, pressing gently with the aid of the knife to make them stick. Put into a deep . plate the yolk of the egg left from the forcemeat and 1 whole egg, and beat well with a fork. Season with salt. Dip the stuffed oysters in this egg and then roll them in bread crumbs, being careful to have every part covered Tvith the egg and crumbs. When all are done place them in a flying basket and cook until they are a rich brown in fat at the temperature "'f)f^ about 400 degrees. It will take about Ij^ minutes to fry them. The stuffed oysters may be kept in a cool_ place for several hours before frying. If wished, maitre^ de Hotel sauce may be served with^them. ' Little Pigs in Blankets.^Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Cut fat English bacon in very thin slices, wrap an oyster in each slice and fasten with a little wooden toothpick. ' Heat a frying pan and put in the little pig. Cook just long enough to crjsp the SHELL FISH. 85 bacon, about 2 minutes. Place on slices of toast that have been cut into small pieces. Do not remove the skewers; garnish with parsley. Have the pan very hot before the pigs are put in and shake con- tinually; do not burn. If 2 or 3 drops of lemon juice are squeezed over each oyster before rolling up, the flavor will be improved. Have small rounds or triangles of hottoast, buttered, lay on each one or more oysters according to size, and serve quickly. Garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Oyster Saute. — Twenty-five nice fat oysters, quarter pound of Irish breakfast bacon, pepper and flour. Drain the oysters and dry them , with a towel, then sprinkle-with pepper and roll them in flour. Put the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying pan, and let all the fat fry out of it; then remove the bacon and cover the bottom of the pan with oysters ; as soon as crisp and brown on one side turn and brown on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast. These are de- licious. If no Irish bacon is at hand, use the ordinary smoked pork Oysters a la Normandie. — One pint of large oysters, remove from their liquor and put over the fire with 1 teaspoonful of buttet , juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful celery salt, let simmer 3 minutes and remove. Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, coOk it for 2 minutes with 1 tablespoonful of flour. Add 1 cupful of chicken broth, 1 cupful of the oyster liquor, 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor and cook 5 minutes and remove. Add half teaspoonful of sea- soning salt and 1 egg beaten with" 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice; add this^ slowly to the sauce ; then 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and last of all the oysters. Let them reach boiling point and pour over 6 slices of toast. Oyster Rarebit. — Clean and remove the Jiard muscle from half a pint of oysters; parboil them in their own liquor until their edges curl, and remove to a hofbowl. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and half pound of cheese broken in sball bits, 1 saltspoon each of salt and mustard, and a few grains of cayenne into a dish ; while the butter is Aielting beat 2 eggs slightly and add to them the oyster liquor ; mix this gradually to the melted cl^eesej add the oysters and turn at once over hot toast. Oyster Potple. — Scald a quart can of oysters in their own liquor. When it boils skim out the oysters and set aside in a warm place. To the liquor add a pint of hot water. Season with pepper and salt 86 SHELL FISH. and a generous piece of butter. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in cold milk. Have ready light biscuit dough, rolled half inch thick, cut into inch squares, drop into thelaoiling stew, cover closely and cook 40 minutes. Stir the" oysters in, let boil up once and serve in the sauce dish. A nice entree. Smotliered Oysters. — Into a saucepan put a tablespoon of butter, a saltspopn of pepper and a teaspoon of salt; when hot add a pint of strained oysters ; shake the pan to keep the oysters from sticking, end when plump serve on toasted crackers. Oyster Shqrt-Cake. — Make a short-cake and bake on pie plates, f ut a quart of oysters over the fire with half cupful of milk and quarter cupful of water, 2 teaspoonfuls butter, salt and pepper ; thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in the water. When the short- cakes are baked, split and spread oysters between and over the top. Oyster Sausages. — One cup of chicken or veal minced fine, 1 cup of bread crumbs, 1 -ounce of beef suet chopped fine, 30 bysters chopped, add 1 egg, season with black pepper and mace and a little cayenne pepper. Make Jhto balls or sausage shape. Boil in egg' and bread crumbs and fry. Serve with a rich, brown gravy. Oyster Cocktails. — The' following recipe was furnished by the thef of a prominent New York club. For every 100 small oysters take 4 tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup, a tablespoonful of pepper vinegar, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the juice of 2 lemons, 2 or 3 drops of tabasco sauce and a cup of oyster liquor. Drain the oysters free from their liquor and strain the required amount before using. Mix the cocktail fully half an hour before serving, and thoroughly chill. Lobsters. If purchased alive, lobsters should be of a dark green color and the shell not bruised nor broken. If already boiled, the shell should be firm and a good bright red, with the tail well curled under. K the tail hangs out straight they have died before being boiled, and are not good. Epicures prefer the " hen lobsters " on account of the coral or eggs. Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being totigh. Boiled liobster. — Have sufficient well-salted water boiling to covev the desired number of lobsters. Drop them in alive and boil SHELL FISH. sr till thoroughlj' cooked, which will take from twenty to thirty minutes. When boiled they should look a good red color and seem firm. If boiled without salt they will taste insipid ; half cup of salt to 4 pounds of lobster is the proportion. To open and take from the sh'ell break" off the large claws, separate the upper jointed part and drain the liquor into a cup. Then remove the small claws and pull the tail from the body;, _ Crack the large claws and joints well with a mallet, and remove the meat with a fork. A nut-pick or skewer will be of assistance in taking the meat from the joints. If there is much white fet in the shells, scrape it on to a plate. Lay the tails flat on a board and cut nearly through lengthwise a little to one side of the centre by pressing with a carver or chopping-knife. Having laid the tail open you will see a blaes of Lolbster.— See Canapes of Crab. Clams. To Open Clam SbeUjs. — Wash the shells and stand them on the hinge end in a bake pan. Put a few; spoonsful of boiling water in the panx; set the pan in the oven until the shells part, when th^^y may be easily ^opened and cooked as required. ^ Clam Chowder. — For clam chowder cut the soft parts from a quart of hard-shell clams of the large, te^ider variety called in some sections " cherry*-stones." Chop fine the hard parts, put them over the fire with water to cover and cooTc till tender. Meantime make ready 2 onions, peeled and sliced, 6 potatoes peeled and diced, a pint of tomatoes peeled and. cut small, and half a pound of pilot biscuit or cl-ackers soaked in milk. When the chopped clams are tender take them out of the kettle and put in the above ingredients in layers,' adding also the soft parts of the clams as well as the boiled portions, and seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, thyme, savory and sweet marjoram; entirely cover with cold water, and cook until potatoes and onions are done.— Clam Chowder. — II. One quart clams ; strain and save the liquor; cut off the black part, or stomach, and do not use ; chop the remain- ing hard parts rather small ; fry from one large slice fat salt pork cut SHELL FISH. 93 intQ dice with half onion sliced, and when well done strain into kettle and add clam liquor, 2 cups sliced .(or cut into quarters) potatoes; cover with hot water, add salt and pepper to taste ; cools: about 20 minutes J add the chopped clams and a cup of cream if you have it, and then thin down with milk till you have about 3 quarts in all, or till it tastes right, not1:oo " clammy ;" let it come to a boil and serve' very hot in hot soup plates with pilot bread or crackers. Coney Island Chowder, with Thyme. — Take 3 middle-size potatoes, cut up as small as you like, put in 3 piftts of water aiid boil 10 minutes; put in 1 quart of xlams and 1 cup of canned tomatoes, boil five minutes longer, then skim ; now take a slice of salt pork and cut in dice, fry out and put scraps in chowder; in the remaining fat fry out 2 large sliced onions, light brown; turn all in chowder and boil 10 minutes longer; season with pepper, salt and a heaping teaspoonful of thyme, and, just before serving, break in common crackers. Canned Clam Chowder. — Make after any of the above rules from canned clams. If they are perfectly fresh, the result will be sat- isfactory. Cream of Clams. — One pirit of water, 1 pint of cream,. 1 quart of milk, about 50 large clams, 4 tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 tablespoon- fuls of flpur, 1 }4 teaspoonfuls salt, one-eighth teaspoonful cayenne, " 1 teaspoonful onion juice, or a tablespoonful of finely-minced onion and a slight grating of niitmeg. Wash the clams, and, after putting them in a stew-pan with the water, place on the stove. When the liquid begins to boil skim it. Cook for five minutes, then strain the liquid into a bowl. Put the clams in the chopping-bowl, and mash as fine as you can ; then rub through a sieve as much of the mass as possible. Put the strained liquid and the clams on the stove to keep hot. Beat the flour and butter together, and gradually pour the hot milk upon the mixture. Return it to the doubie-boiler, and cook for five minutes. Add the salt, pepper,, nutmeg, onion-juice, meat- extract, clams and liquor, besides the pint of hot cream. Cook for 5 minutes, then serve. Cream of Oys.ters and Clams. — Wash and chop 1 pint of oys- ters; also wash 1 pint of clams; remove the soft part, and save to add to the soup at the last. Chop the hard parts, heat slowly the chopped oysters and clams to the boiling point, and strain through a 94 SHELL FISH. cheese-cloth. Scald a quart of iflilk with a slice of onion, a blade of mace,' a sprig of parsley and a bit of bay leaf. ■ Remove the season- , ings, and add the milk to the stock, and thicken with 3 tablespoon- fuls each of butter and flower, cooked together. Season with salt ^nd pepper; add the soft part of the clams, cook for one minute, and» serve. A grating of nutmeg may take the place of the. mace, if pre- ferred. Fried Soft-Shell Clams. — Pirocure freshly-opened soft-shell clams, remove them with a f6rk out of their liquor on to a soft towel, and, after drying, lay the clams on a dish, dust over with flour; then take each one separately on a fork, dip first in beaten egg, then roll in cracker-dust; lay them thus prepared on a clean board for thirty minutes to dry. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of lard in a fry- ing-pan over the fire. When hot put in as many clams as- will con- veniently fill the pan. Fry light-brown, first on one side, then on the other;' fry the remainder the same way, using more lard and but- ter if necessary. Arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and serve with biscuits and butter, or buttered toast. Fried Clams. — II. Take large clams in the shell (a peck will make about two quarts when removed from shell). Slit the necks lengthwise on one side, but do not cut or break the clam; keep the clam as near perfect as possible; then wash three or four times in cold water; change water as often; stir with the hand. "The^secret is in the washing." Then roll in corn flour, and fry in hot fat, as you Would doughnuts. If turned a few times while frying they will not stick together. Do not put too many in the fat at. once. If donft- right they will stand out nice and round, and look more like dough- nuts than clams. Let the fat drain off a little when removing from fat; sprinkle with a little salt; good hot or cold; they should not be all knotted up in shapeless bunches when done ; if they are, it is be- cause they are not washed. enough; have the fat hot. ScaUoped Clams. — Prepare 25 hard clams ; mix in a dish one-half pint of cracker crumbs moistened with one-half cup of warm milk and one-fourth cup of clam liquor. Add two beaten eggs, a heaping tablespoonful of- melted butter and the clams chopped fine. Season highly with salt and pepper. Fill a dozen clam-shells with this mix- ture, sprinkle with bread-crumbs and brown. Or put in one large baking-dish and Cover with crumbs and brown. SHELL FISH. 95 Scalloped Clams. — II. Put a layer of potatoes in earthen baking- pan, little salt and butter, next a kyer of clams chopped, then a layqr of crackers, a little salt and butter; repeat from potatoes until dish is full with crackers on top. Fill with milk enough to cover, cover tight and bake three-quarters of an hour, then uncover for 15 minutes. " Clam Bake " (inland). — This sort of a clam bake can be had in February as well as August, and can be prepared in one's kitchen. The main article is a large, new tin wash-boiler. The ingredients .may be all used, or such left out as are inconvenient to obtain. A large party can be served and the repast be partaken of with more comfort than on a windy beach. In the bottom of the boiler place a layer of soft'br hard clams, or, better still, some of both. A few of the very large ones are good to jgive more of a clam flavor to the entire "bake." Put in the clam liquor and one large cupful of water. Then lay over them a large piece of new muslin (well washed). This is to take the place of the sea-weed used in the out-of-door clam bakes, and answers the purpose completely. On the top of this cloth place a layer of potatoes, either sweet, or white, or both. Then another cloth, and theji a layer of corn on the cob. In summer fresh corn with a few layers of husk left on, and in winter take the corn that is canned on the cob^ Another layer of the cloth. The next ingredient is a layer of chickens cut up into quarters (spring, or very tender fowls must be used). Cut them in quarters/ Another layer of cloth. Then a layer of lobsters which have been parboiled. Do not crack the shells until time to serve them. Another layer of cloth, and then a layer of soft crabs, if they are to be had. If not, have hard crabs, or leave this layer out. Cloth again, and then the fish ; ' sheeps- head, blue fish, or indeed almost any kind. Cut in pieces, and cover with the last layer of cloth. Top the whole off with a layer of little oysters, preferably Blue Points. Then put on the cover of the wash- boiler. Set the boiler on the range over a good fire and leave it there for an hour and a half It will do all the rest itself It can even be done on a gas range. All that is wanted is heat. The steam from the clam juice will cook everything thoroughly. While it is steaming prepare the sauce. This is a very important part of the bake Make plenty of it, for the same sauce is served liberally with each course. The Sauce : This is how to make it : — Melt 1 pound of butter, but be very careful not to overmelt it, for if it becomes a liquid the other 96 SHELL FISH. ingredients will not blend with it. Let it get just to the consistency of molasses, as no flour is used for a thickening. Add 2 tablespootl- fuls of Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, 2 tablespoonfuis of tomato sauce, haff a teaspoonful of red pepper and 2 tablespoonfuls of pepper sauce. In serving, take out the courses as they come ; first, if you wish, serving the broth, then the steamed oysters, then the fish, and so on. Leave the boiler onthe range all the time, so that the chicken and lobsters may be cooking while the meal is going on. ■ This will be found a nevelty for an informal din- ner party. The number of courses here given is 7, but they may be increased or diminished as wished. Roast Clams in the Shell. — Roast in a pan over a hot fire, or in a hot oven, or, at a " Clam Bake," on hot stones. When they open empty the juice into a saucepan; add the clams with butter, pepper and a very little salt. v Clam Pancakes. — Take a pint of the chopped clams ; stir into them a beaten egg and add only sifted flour enough to stick them together ; drop them by the spoonful into the frying pan, which has been well greased with an equal quantity of lard, and butter, and cook them as pancakes are usually cooked. Deviled Clams.— Wash them, open with a knife, chop fine, stew in a little of the juice a few minutes; make a dressing of hard-bo.iled eggs, chopped; stale br^ad crumbs, pepper, a little salt, a little jhus* tard; wet with a little cream and mix well together, then return, to the. half-shells, sprinkle cracker dust on the clams, put a couple of allspice on top of each, and butter, which makes them brown. Bake in hot oven 20 minutes and send to the table on the open shells. '• Steamed. Clams,; — Put half peck of clams (first scrubbing the shells well) into a boiler with about 1 pint of water. When the shells open wide, remove the clams and with scissors cut off the heads and cut each clam in two or three pieces ; now take a half pint of the water in which they were boiled and the same amount of milk, put on stove, and when hot thicken with flour to make nice smooth gravy. Add a little butter. Toast 6 slices of bread brown on both sides, lay in platter, spread on the clams, then turn on hot gravy and serve. ;Baked Stuffed Clams. — One-half peck of fair-sized clams (white shells preferred). Shell them and clean well in cold water, make a stuffing of common crackers, well seasoned with sage; save shells. SHELL FISH.; 9Y well washed ; place a thin layer of stuffing on shell, then from 1 lo 2 clams ; then another thin layer of stuffing, covering with other shell. Do the same until all the clams are thus stuffed. Then place them in a common baking pan ; put into a very hot oven and bake 16 to 20 minutes, when they will be done, taking care not to let the shell turn red, as they will be spoiled then. The liquid from clams should be boiled and adulterated, three-fouf^ths water to one-fourth clam liquid ; served with the stuffed clams it makes a delicious drink, seasoned with celery salt. Clams on Toast. — ^Wash the clams and put them in a kettle with just enough water to prevent scorching. Heat them until the shells open. Remove the clams, being careful to save the liquor, and heat them in part of the liquor, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. If too strong, put in half as much cream or rich milk. Toast bread carefully, moisten in the remainder of the clam liquor, previously heated and slightly seasoned for the purpose ; butter liberally and pour the clams over this. Before the milk is added it will be neces- sary to boil them gently ibr a half or three-quarters of an hour. Clam Stew may be prepared in the same manner, using all of the clam liquor and some water. Thicker, slightly and use a goodly quantity of butter. Orabs. Scalloped Crabs. — ^Wash the crabs free from sand and put into a kettle of boiling water, throwing in a handful of salt. Boil 20 minutes to half an hour ; when done take from the water, pick out all the meat, being careful not to break the shells. To every pint of meat put a little salt and pepper; taste, and if not enough to suit, as tastes differ widely, more is easily added. Grate a very little nutmeg into the meat, and add 1 tablespoonful of cracker (rolled), or fine bread crumbs, 1 egg well beaten and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Mix all thoroughly together, wash the crab shells clean, and fill each one quite full of the mixture. Sprinkle fine cracker or bread crumbs over the top and set in%the oven to brown nicely. It will take but a few min- utes. Send to the table hot. Deviled Crabs. — Twelve large crabs ; one-half pint of cream ; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour; one-fourth grated nutmeg; 4 egg yolks, boiled hard; 1 tablespoonful each of salt, butter and chopped pars- COOK— 7 98 SHELL FISH. ley ; salt and cayenne to taste, and one-haff teaspoonful of mustard. Put the crabs in warm water ; add the salt and put the kettle over a brisk fire. Boil 30 minutes. Take up and drain ; break off all claws; separate the shells ; remove the spongy fingers and the stomach, which is found under the head.. Pick out all the meat. Put the cream on to boil, rub butter and flour together, and add ta the boiling cream ; stir and cook 2 minute's. Take from the fire, add the crab meat, the egg yolks mashed fine, parsley, nutmeg, salt, mustard and cayenne. Clear the upper shells q{ the crabs, fill them with the mix- ture, brush over with beaten egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown ; or better, put them in a frying basket and plunge into boiling lard until a nice brown. Crabs on Toast. — Heat 12 ounces of crab meat in a good and well-seasoned sauce ; spread this mixture on squares of toast, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, dot with butter and set in a hot oven for three minutes. Serve on a hot napkin, garnished with parsley. -Fried Soft-slielled Crabs. — Wash the crabs, remove the lungs from both sides and dip into milk, then roll in flour and fry in plenty of very hot frying fat. When of a fine color drain and dress on a folded napkin, and on top arrange a bunch of fresh parsley. Hot Crab. — Pick the meat out of the crab, clear the shell from the head. Put the meat together with a little salt, pepper, nutmeg and butter, a few bread crumbs and a little vinegar, into the shell again. Place in the oven and let heat through, remove, and brown by holding a hot shovel over it. A crab shell will hold the meat of two crabs. Stewed Crabs. — Take out the meat from the shell, put it in a saucepan with butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, or a grating of nutmeg, and a very little water, dredge with flour and let simmer^ five minutes over a slow fire. Serve hot. Garnish the dish with the claws laid around it. The spongy substance from the sides should be taken off; also the sand bag. Sauted Crabs In Butter. — After the crabs have been well washed remove the lungs from each side, roll them in flour and saute them in very hot, purified butter ; when done and of a fine color, dress, and to the butter in which they were cooked add some lemon juice; strain this butter through a strainer over the crabs and strew chopped pars- ley over therti. SHELL FISH. 99 Soft-shell Crabs a la Maltre d'Hotel. — Clean, -wash well and wipe dry some soft-shell crabs ; brush over with melted butter or oil, season with one even tablespoonful of salt, one-half even teaspoonful of pepper ; put them on a broiler and broil over the clear fire about five minutes on each side. Serve at once on a hot dish on buttered toast, with one ounce maitre d' hotel butter spread over. In place of toast six small slices of bread fried in butter may be laid under the crabs. ' , Canapes of Crab. — Drop 6 live hard-shell crabs into boiling water, add 1 tablespoonful of salt; boil 15 minutes; then remove. When cold enough to handle take oiF the upper shell, extract all the meat ; crack the claws and pick out the meat ; season with one even teaspoonful of salt and a little cayenne pepper; then measure — there should be a good pint of crab meat. Place a small saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter, over the fire ; add 2 tablespoonfuls of fine chopped white onions, cook 5 minutes witliout browning ; add 1 heap- ing tablespoonful of flour, stir aild cook 2 minutes; add half a cupful of white broth, stir for a few minutes longer ; then add 1 pint of crab meat, stir and cook 8 minutes. Cut 6 slices from a long-shaped loaf of baker's bread, cut off the crust, and fry light brown in butter on both sides. Spread the crab mixture in equal portions over the bread and set aside. In the mean time melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 1 tablespoonful of flour, cook and stir a few minutes ; remove from the fire, add 8 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese ; mix the ingredients and form into round balls of equal size. Place them in the center of the canapes, pressing a little in the center. Put the canapes into a baking pan and bake light brown in a hot oven, which will take about ten minutes ; then remove ; arrange them on a hot dish and serve at once. Parmesan cheese is preferred by many rather than American. Canapes of lobster are prepared in the same way. Oyster Grabs, Fricassee of Oyster Crabs. — These tiny crabs, found now and then in stewed oysters, are now sold by themsejves, and are nearly as great a luxury as terrapin, about $3 a quart. For a quart, melt a teaspoonful of butter in a frying pan, and add half a small minced onion, half a bay leaf, a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of grated autmeg, with 1 of pepper. When the onion has fried a little, add a 100 SHELL FISH. tablespoonful of flour and a cup and a half of rich white broth, and let all simmer slowly for 20 minutes. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs, adding the juice of a lemon, and add to the broth, which must not boil after this, but be kept at boiling point ; add now the crabs, and stand on the back of the range for 5 minutes ; then stir in a tea- spoonful of minced parsley and a large one of butter cut in little bits, and serve very hot with thin brown bread and butter. Oyster Cralb Ple.-^Take 2 quarts of fresh crabs and some of the juice ; set on range to get warm, but not.to cook. Rub 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter and 1 tablespoonful of flour smoothly together in a saucepan over the fire. Have a pint of cream ready to add to the paste and pour in gradually while stirring to keep it smooth. Season with a little salt and pepper. While this is preparing have a baking- pan lined with puff paste in oven baking. Put crabs and sauce together in the crust. Then cover with another layer of pastry, wet the top with milk and bake twenty niinutes, or until the crust is a beautiful brown. Serve with a cream and lemon sauce, or % little lemon juice in the hot creaim. Oyster Crabs on Toast. — ^These crabs make a delightful luncheon dish, stirred in a hot saucepan with a little butter and cream, and served on buttered toast. Deviled Oyster Crabs, in Shells. — Take some nicely-washed, mediuin-sized and deep oyster shells, setting them on a straight baking-shjeet. Drain the oyster crabs, season them with salt, black pepper and red pepper and fill the large shells. Strew over them bread-crumbs and grated cheese, sprinkle with butter and brown in a quick oven, serving the shells as soon as done. No saucfe" is used. Scallops. Fried Scallops. — ^^Pick over and wash quickly, dr^in between towels, season fine cracker crumbs with salt and pepper. Dip the scallops in crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in crumbs. Fry in smoking hot fat and serve at once. A more simple way, which I often use, is to roll them in Indian meal and fry in hot fat. Scallops in Shells. — Drain a pint of them and toss them, withJL, tablespoonfvil of butter, into a saucepan, letting them brown lightly for about ten minutes. Then take them up and chop them fine. Melt a spoonful of butter in a saucepan, add a small onion mfnced SHELL FISH. 101 fine and brown it lightly. Then add a heaping teaspoonful of flour and stir in slowly a cupful of the liquid drained from the scallops. Season with a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a little white pepper. Mix with the chopped scallops 4 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and the yolks of three eggs, and cook all together for three minutes. Then fill the shells, sprinkle fine bread-crumbs over the top, and dot with bits of butter, and set them in a hot oven to brown for ten minutes. Serve them on a platter with a garnish of green. One whole egg can be used in place of the yolks, but is not quite as nice. Scallops in Batter. — Save the liquor that is in them, and put the scallops in a colander and pour boiling water on them to cook therri through a little. Then take 1 pint of flour, 1 egg, a little salt and pepper and 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, and the liquor saved from the scallops and mix the batter. After it is all mixed dip the scallops in the batter and fry in hot lard. This recipe is for one pint of scallops. Terrapin or Water Turtle. Stewed Terrapin with Cream; — One-half pint thick cream, 6 eggs, half pound butter, quarter cupful sherry or madeira, quarter teaspoonful mace ; salt and cayenne to taste. Put terrapins alive into boiling water and boil 10 or 15 minutes, or until you can pull off tha outer skin and toe nails. Now put them back in fresh boiling water, add a heaping teaspoonful of salt and boil until the shells part easily and the flesh on the legs is tender. Take out, remove uhder shells until cool enough to handle. Then take them out of the upper shells carefully, remove sandbag and intestines, the gall sacks, which are imbedded in one lobe of the liver. In removing gall sack do not break it, as it would spoil the terrapin. Break terrapin into small pieces. Now add liver, broken up, and all eggs found in terrapin, put into stew pan with the juice or liquor it has given out while being cut. Roll the butter in flour, add to terrapin and stand on moderate fire until heated. Boil the 6 eggs for 15 minutes, mash yolks to smooth paste into 2 tablespoonfuls of the wine. Then add this, the cream and seasoning to the terrapin, let it boil up once, take from fire, add wine and serve. It must never be boiled after adding the wine. Cooks do not use the intestines nowadays ; they are not con* sidered fit to eat. Lemon jaice can be used instead of wine. 102 SHELL FISH. Stewed Diamond Back. — Remove bottom shell, after cutting his head off and bleeding him ; trim" all the meat from the top shell neatly and throw whole pieces into salted water. Cut up neatly and put on to cook in hot water, just enough to cover ; cook till done. Almost 20 minutes before it is done put in about 2 dozen small new potatoes and 1 of shelot roots; add half a lemon, 1 glass of sherry, the juice of 1 tomato and 2 ounces of butter. Thicken as cream; remove the lemon in 10 minutes. For a small party serve in shell. Baked Turtle. — Scrape the shell from which the cooked meat has been removed, and wash well in cold water. Mince the meat as fine as possible with a hash choppen Add to it half an onion, the hard boiled yolks of 3 eggs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, salt and pepper to taste. Have ready some cracker crumbs rolled fine, moisten the mixture with some of the liquid the turtle has been boiled in. Knead into it the cracker crumbs and press whole into the turtle shell. Put in hot oven and bake quickly, garnishing with hard-boil^ turtle's eggs. Turtle Soup. — Take 3 or 4 green onions, a bunch of seasoning herbs, cayenne pepper and salt, 1 quart of very strong veal brpth, 1 pound of butter, flour, lemon juice, Madeira wine and a turtle. Cut up the meat and let the bones and other parts intended for the soup stew 6 hours, the onions and seasoning being chopped very fine. Use cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Add the liquor to the veal broth ; put in the butter, with enough flour to thicken suffi- ciently; stir it over the fire 10 minutes and add lemon juice and Madeira to taste. The coarse white parts will require cooking 2 hours. The green fat should be cut into pieces 1^ inches square and simmered in the soup for an .hour. Force-meat balls and eggs are served in the soup. Make these of the vealy part of the turtle, mioced fine with half a beaten anchovy, a piece of celery boiled tender, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Mix them up well with 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crunibs ; season with cayenne pepper, mace, salt and white pepper; moisten with a little oyster liquor, a lump of butter and a well-beaten egg ; roll them into balls and fry in butter. " This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers, or very honest men." — Walton. Dress fish as quickly as possible after they are taken from the water. Wash and rub the inside with salt. Do not soak in water long, as the flesh is apt to become flabby. Lard and butter in equal quantities is better for frying fish than butter alone. Frozen fish should be put in cold water to draw out the frost. Add a little vinegar to the water in which salt fish is soaked. Soak salt fish" in sour milk to freshen them. Pour vinegar over fresh fish to make the scales come off" easily. Fish can be improved in flavor by rubbing with vinegar or adding one-half cup of vinegar to the water in which it is boiled. Fish, when prepared for the table, should never be laid double, if it can be avoided, as the steam from the under layer makes the upper layer so soft as to brea:k easily. They must be cooked until the flesh separates easily from the bones. By running a knife in a little way, say under the fins, so as not to spoil the appearance of the fish, this can be judged of. All kinds of cooked fish can be served with salads. Lettuce is the best green salad to serve, but all cooked and cold vegetables go well with fish. Whatever the method of cooking, apply great heat at first to sear the outside and prevent the escape of the juices except for a soup or chowder. To scale a fish hold it by the tail under water (which la salted) in a deep pan, 'and with a small, sharp knife held slant- ing, scrape the scales from the tail toward the head. The scales will come off" easier under water and will fall to the bottom ol . the pan instead of flying about. Wipe the fish on an old soft towel and lay it on a board or a large platter. Cut off" the head and tail, and if it is to be broiled split it down the back. This is done by passing the knife one side of and close to the backbone, from the head to the tail, cutting carefully until the entrails are reached. Remove 103 104 FISH. them carefully and scrape the inside of the fish and all the blood from the backbone.- If preferred, the backbone can be removed entirely. Wipe the fish inside and out with a cloth wrung out of salted water, lay it on a dish and keep it in a cool place until wanted. For baking or frying, the fish may be opened down the body. The only secret in boning is to hold the knife close to the bone, scraping away eveiy particle of flesh. , To remove the skin, loosen it Fish Scaler. with a knife around the head and pull quickly toward the tail. If the fingers are dipped in salt occasionally it will give them a firmer grip on the slipping fish. This will be done in the market if the purchaser so directs. In freshening salt fish lay it in the water skin-side up. Baking, ' boiling, frying, broiling and steaming are the standard methods of cooking fish. f-' Broiled Fish. — Broiling is assuredly the oldest method of cook" ing, and no new one surpasses it. The skin of small or thin fish serves to keep them in shape. Slices of halibut or salmon may be broiled whole, or the skin and bone removed and cut in fillets. Clean and split the fish. Rub a double broiler with suet, lay the'fish, flesh eide down, on and set over the fire ; iurn until both sides are brown. When done take up carefully on a heated dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spi'ead with butter and serve. Boiled Fish. — This is thought to be the most delicate of all, but on account of its slippery skin and gelatinous consistency, it is hard to boil it so that its appearance will gratify the eye. To attain the best results, several rules are to be remembered and observed. First, the fish must be weighed. Second, it must' be carefully bound up in thin muslin ; coarse cheese-cloth is excellent for the purpose. Third, the kettle must be large enough to accbmmodate the fish easily, and the water must be well salted first, or the flakes will have a tendency to separate. Fourth, the water must be at boiling point, but not boiling when the fish is put in, and should be in sufficient quantity to fully coyer it, but not in excess, or the flavor will be washed away. Fol FISH. lOS Fish Kettle. a large fish, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the water. Fifth, keep the water boiling, and allow 6 minutes to each pound, and if the fish is large, add 6 minutes to the computation ; for instance, make the 36 minutes due a 6-pounder 42 minutes. Never stab a fish with a fork or skewer to find if it is done, but see that the water boils steadily and does not stop for an instant. If the water boils turbulently, the kettle must be moved to a part of the stove where it can have a less fierce heat, as too much agitation of the water will cause it to crumble. A fish boiler is best to use. Serve with drawn butter and hard-boiled ^gs sliced. Garnish also with parsley and sliced lemons. Some like tomato catsup poured over the fish, without the eggs and lemons. Frying Fish. — If the fish is large, cut into small pieces ; if it is small, split it in two pieces, and wipe dry on a clean tea towel. Season . with pepper and salt and dip the pieces in corn meal, then fry a nice brown in boiling lard. Be sure to have a good fire, bright and hot and have the lard boiling. Those kinds which are liable to break must be dipped in beaten eggs, then into crumbs. The fat in which fish is fried, whether it be lard, dripping, oil, or butter, must be very hot. All fried fish should be decorated with fried or raw parsley. For frying the fat should be hot enough to put a crisp 9oating over the fish at once, hotter than for doughnuts or any dough which must have time to rise, but not so hot as for croquettes, since the fish would burn outside before it was cooked throughout. Drain on soft paper and serve with acid sauce. In the recipes for cooking certain fish, skinning them is insisted upon. When both sides are treated in this way, it is nearly impossible to keep them in good shape, but it is only flat fish that are to be pre- pared in this way, and it is entirely un- Lipped Frying Pan. 106 FISH. necessary to remove the white skin from the under part. That will hold the flesh in place after the dark, coarse skin of the top part is pulled off, if they are carefully handled. When put in the pan of boiling fat, the bare or skinned side of the fish must be laid downward first, after being dipped in egg and bread or cracker crumbs. When turned up after a little trial by lifting with a broad knife-blade, it will show>a golden-brown crispness that is very stimulating to even a jaded appetite. A large quantity of fat is usually necessary in frying fish. Wijh the exception of very oily fish, such as mackerel or her- ring they require much less fat, and should be dipped in egg and bread crumbs. Baked Fish. — Procure a fish of three or four pounds, season with 1 heaping tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful pepper. Rub the seasoning well in- and outside the fish; place the fish with two pUced onions, on a large dish; sprinkle over the juice of one large lemon; cover and set aside for 1 hour. Then . lay the fish in a baking pan with 4 thin slices of pork under it, and 3 slices of pork on top. Pouf 1 tablespoonful of melted butter over and bake 45. minutes. Serve in a hot dish garnished with lemon cut into quarters, and parsley. It can be baked without the onion or lemon, l^ut these improve its flavor. If salt pork is not at hand, grease the pan thoroughly with lard and lay a sheet of nice brown paper, cut to the size of the pan, in the bottom. Grease the paper thoroughly and lay the fish upon it. Baked in this way, it can easily be taken from the pan without breaking it at all, and the trouble of cleaning the pan afterwards, which is not a little when the baking is done in the usual manner, is entirely avoided. Baked Fish, Stuffed. — Select a fish of medium size, wash well, wipe dry, sprinkle with salt. Mix 1 teacup of stafe bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of melted butter, half teaspoonful of salt, quarter tea- spoonful of pepper. Stuff the fish with this mixture. Place a well- buttered tin in the bottom of a baking pan. Lay the fish upon^it, dredge with flour, salt apd pepper; add a cup of boiling water, place in a hot oven and bake 1 5 minutes for every pound of fish, basting with the gravy' in the pan. When done slide carefully into a dish, garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Or, the following stuffing may be made : Dried and sifted bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt to taste, also a very little finely powdered sage, held together with the yolks of two eggs. Some add tomato sauce to the dressing, others FISH. 107 coTer the fish with a layer of tomatoes ; still another plan is to stew the tomatoes alone and serve the sauce with the fish after it is baked. Bake according to size of fish in a hot oven until browned. Wrap with string or sew up the fish to keep in the dressing. A thick slice of fish is often baked in milk or tomato sauce. The baked fish with its head left on, although the hollow eyes be well filled with parsley, is at best a ghastly sight. Dainty Baked Fish. — An especially dainty way to bake a fish is as follows : Remove the head and skin, insert a knife close to the backbone and cut away the flesh from side to side in turn, in a long strip or fillet, then scrape off any bits adhering to the bones. Fold over the narrow end of one strip on top, spread with stuffing, place the other fillet above, folding the thin end jtinderneath to give a smooth surface on top, brush over with soft butter and put skewers through both layers to keep them from slipping. "Bake as usual. Just before serving brush over with beaten egg, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and brown for a moment. Meantime the head and backbone should be covered with cold water and left to cook gently for a half hour or until they fall apart. Strain off the water and thicken for a sauce or save for a soup next day. * Fillets; of Fisli. — Fillets are a little troublesome, but a delicious method of preparing fish. Sole is especially fitted to be served in this manner, but flounders (a chtap fish) furnish an excellent imita- tion of sole. The fillets are made from the layer of flesh on each side of the fish, and each one can be cut in two, thus making four to the fish. A sharp knife is the first necessity. Cut the skin of the fish around the head down to the flesh, and then cut down each side of the broad fin on the back of the fish from the head to the tail. Now begin at the head, loosening the skin with the knife, and pull it off" firmly and slowly, using the knife whenever necessary to loosen the skin, which will usually come off" smoothly. Both sides of the fish are now bare, and it is easy to remove the flesh. Flatten the fil- lets, after they are cut, by a blow of the potato-masher, and then egg and crumb each one, dropping them into boiling fat, frying them golden bi-own, and draining on brown paper a moment before serv- ing. They may be served either with cream sauce, which contains a teaspoonful of minced parsley, or with tomato sauce. Another method is to pour cream sauce over the fillets and bake them in the 108 FISH. oven for 15 minutes, taking care that the sauce does not bake away or burn. Again, the fillets may be cut in long narrow strips> and each one rolled around and fastened in place with wooden toothpicks. Bake in a quick oven for five or seven minutes. Serve with tomato, cream, or some other kind of sauce. To put the fillets in a dish and cover with a sliced onion, three or four sprigs of parsley and the juice of one lemon, and let stand for half an hour, is an improve- ment. Closely cover the dish. When ready to serve wipe dry with a soft, clean towel, dip lightly in flour, then in beaten egg and next in bread crumbs. Fry in hot fat to a delicate brown ; serve on a folded napkin laid on a hot platter. Worcestershire sauce is also excellent to serve with fillets. Tarragon and Tartar ^auce also. Frying Fish. — Fish for frying, after being cleaned and washed, shojild be rolled in a cloth to absorb the moisture. Cut in neat pieces, dip in beaten, eggs and roll in flour or corn-meal. For every 6 or 6 pounds offish fry a few slices of s;:»lt pork to the gravy thus obtained ; if necessary add lard or butter. Fresh fat may be used, but that from the pork gives a better flavor. Brown the fish quickly, then cover the pan and set back to steam and cook through. Plain Gravy.^Remove the fish, rub 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of flour smooth in a little water and stir into the fat the fish was fried in. Add butter, pepper and salt. If desired, flavor with catsup or lemon juice. Pour the gravy around the fish, or serve separately. Boiled Ked Snapper. — ^This fish is common in the Gulf of Mexico, and is one of the most delicious for table Use that the waters of the sea afford. To boil^> take a medium-sized fish, cleanse and wash in cold water, tie tightly in a clean cloth, cover well with hot water, to which, for a fish of from 5 to 8 pounds, add one-half cup of vinegar and a handful of salt; boil for 45 minutes, or until the flesh comes readily from the bones. Serve hot with sauce as follows: 1 pint of water thickened with flour; let boil until clear; add salt to season, a little pepper, 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 hard-boiled eggs sliced. Baked Ked Snapper. — Cleanse the fish, and in removing the entrails make no longer cut than is necessary. Stuff the fish with dressing as follows : Take sufficient stale bread to fill the cavity in the head and body, soften with cold water ; take 2 tablespoonfuls o/ FISH. 109 lard in a saucepan, mince a medium-sized onion and cook brown in the lard; add to the softened bread. Mix well and season with pepper, salt and sweet herbs. Put enough water in the pan to pre- vent scorching and dredge the fish slightly with flour. Serve hot. This dressing will answer for other fish. Baked Bed Snapper a la Creole. — For a fish of 3 or 4 pounds prepare this stuffing : 1 can of tomatoes, 6 onions chopped fine, 1 cup of dry bread-crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, red and black pepper and salt, plenty of butter. Stuff your fish with this dressing and sew up. Lay it flat in the pan and cover top with the remaining stuffing. Spread butter on this to make it brown nicely. Bake one hour. Mackerel. Boiled Fresh Mackerel. — Fresh mackerel are soaked in salted water with a little vinegar added ; with this exception they can be served in the same way as the salt mackerel. Broiled fresh mackerel is very nice with the same cream or egg sauce. Broiled Spanish Mackerel. — Split the fish down the back bone, wash in cold water, dry with a clean dry cloth, dust with salt and lay in a buttered wire broiler. Cook the flesh side first. Theii turn, make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 small teaspoonFul salt, one quarter teaspoonful of pepper. Dish up the fish and turn this sauce over it hot. Maitre de Hotel butter is also nice with this. Broiled Salt Mackerel. — Choose a medium-sized mackerel, with flesh thick and white. To freshen suspend by a string or stick .through the gills in a jar or bucket of water. Take out of the water 10 or 15 minutes before broiling ; dry with a clean towel. Broil on a wire broiler, putting on a little butter during the process, Lay on a warm plate and set in the oven for a few minutes before serving. Maitre de Hotel butter is nice to pour over the fish before serving. Baked Mackerel, Stuffed. — Select a nice fat mackerel, wash, and soak over night. As this is best for lunch, change the water in the morning and keep it in a cold place. One hour before lunch time, take it from the water and clean all the black from the skin. Chop fine 2 pieces of celery, sufficient parsley to make 2 tablespoonfuls ; mix this with half a cup of crumbs.: Add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, a dash of cayeane. Fill this in the thin part of the mackerel, fold it 110 -FISH. together, and place it in a baking pan. Dust with pepper, and put m the pan about half a cup of water. Bake in a quick oven 30 minutes. Baste at least twice. Dish and cover with tomato-sauce. Baked Salt Mackerel. ^Freshen as before, drain, pour boiling water over the fish, let stand a few moments, then turn off, and put the fish in a long tin, well buttered. Put over it half a cup of sweet cream (rich milk with a little butter will do), pepper and put in a hot oven; let it brown slightly and serve, adding, more cream if more gravy is needed. Spiced Mackerel. — ^Take 6 medium-sized mackerel, clean and cut off heads and tails. Cut across and make 2 parts of each. Then take half a cup of salt, one-third tablespoon of ground cloves, half a tablespoon of allspice) and mix them well together. Rub the mix- ture into the fish, and pack them in a stone jar or bean pot, and cover with pure vinegar. Bake 6 hours in a s1om[ oven. It will keep a year. Halibut. Boiled HaUbut. — Wash the fish in cold water, wipe and rub with salt. Wrap in a cloth, put in a fish-kettle or lay on a large plate and put in the bottom of a saucepan. Cover with boiling water, to which add a table^poonful of salt; let simmer gently 10 minufes to every pound of fish. When done, take up, drain, remove the cloth, turn the fish out carefully on a dish, garnish with parsley. Serve with sauce Hollandaise. Baked Halibut. — Take a piece of halibut weighing 5 or 6 pounds, or less, and soak in salt and water for 2 hours ; xwipe dry and score the outer skin ; set in baking pan in a tolerably hot oven and bake for an hour, basting often with butter and water heated together. When a fork will penetrate it 'feasily it is done. It should be of a fine brown color. Take the grayy in the dripping pan, add a little boiling water, stir in a teaspbonful of walnut catsup, the juice of a lemon, and thicken with browned flour; boil up once and put into a sauce boat. Many cooks sprinkle chopped onion in th!e bottom of the baking pan before putting in the fish. Baked Halibut Steak. — Cut the fish into nice slices, season With white pepper and a very httle salt, and place them in a well-buttered baking dish. Pour over them a wine-glass of strained lemon juice, and let it cook in the oven, covered with a buttered paper, for 15 to FISH. Ill 25 minutes, according to thickness. For the sauce, stir over the fire 1 ounce of butter, with 1 ounce of sifted flour, till well blended, but not browned, then pour to it a gill of boiling water, white pepper and salt to taste, and let all cook together for 8 or 10 minutes, before adding to it the strained liquor from the baked fish. Boil all for about a minute, then strain again and add a small lump of butter off the stove. When this has melted, dish the steaks neatly from the .sauce around them and serve. Halibut Steak, Stuffed. — Get two shapely steaks, wash and thoroughly dry them with a towel. Make a stuffing from a cupful of crumbs, tablespoonful of butter, tablespbonful of onion juice, or same amount of minced onion, tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and dash of cayenne, quarter teaspoonful of black pepper, just a grating of nut- meg, and feaspoonful of salt. Place 1 steak on the baking pan, lay carefully over it the stuffing, and place above it the other steak. Put small pieces of butter over the top and dust lightly with salt and pep- per. Bake until a golden brown, about 20 or 30 minutes. Serve on a hot platter, with garnish of lemons sliced and fresh red cherries. Halibut Steak, Fried. — Slice thick and lay in cold salt water for ' an hour. Dry and dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust and fry in beef drippings. The following lemon sauce is sometimes served with the fish : Lemon Sauce. — Rub a tablespoonful of butter to a cream, adding the juice of a lemon, a little chopped parsley, salt and little pepper ; set in the oven until the butter is melted. Halibut Steak, Cold. — A delicious cold dish offish is a "steak" — or slice across the body of the fish — of halibut Cook this till perfectly tender, but not to break, in a little butter ; remove it on a dish, and squeeze the juice of half a fresh lemon over it. Stew 2 or 3 large fresh tomatoes in a little water, crush them through a colan- der, season the puree obtained with plenty of salt and cayenne pepper, pour it around (but not upon) the fish ; cut some lemon rind in fine shreds, place an edging of these around the edge of the fish, and pirt a fringe of green parsley round the edge of the dish. Fillets of HaUbut. — Three pouhds of halibut, half cup of butter, 1 lemon, 3 hard-boiled eggs. Skin the fish, bone and cut in slices half an inch thick. Cut these in strips about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. Sprinkle the strips with lemon juice, season with salt 112 FISH. and pepper, cover closely and set away for an hour. Then melt the butter and dip each strip in it. Roll them up, pin each one together with a wooden toothpick, dip in butter once more and arrange them in a baking pan. Dredge with flour thickly, and bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. Take the hard-boiled eggs, rub the yolks of the eggs, and cut the white into rings. "Spread, the little fillets of fish upon a hot dish. Remove the toothpicks, turn a white sauce around, not over them. Sprinkle the grated yolks over the fish and garnish with the white rings. Any large fish can be served this way. The eggs can be omitted if desired. For a white, or cream sauce, see " Sauces." - Shad. Boned Shad. — To bone a shad hold the, knife close Jto the back bone and loosen the flesh from it on both sides ; next lay the fish open and take out the back bone. This exposes the other large bones, when they can be easily removed. Many of the ^mall bones are then visible, and the others can be felt and picked out by the fingers. After all the bones are out remove* the skin and cut the fish into pieces, when it is ready for frying or baking, after being seasoned with salt and pepper and dipped in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs. A* boned shad cannot be broilecj. Some cooks allow the fish to stand half an hour after seasoning it with salt and pepper, sprinkling it with the juice of one lemon, and cover with sliced oniqn. Dry in a soft cloth and fry in hot lard. Drain on blotting or soft brown paper. Sliad Boe. — Boil the shad roe in boiling salted water for 10 minutes, slicing in 1 small onion, and adding a bouquet of herbs. 2t can then be cooked in several ways. 1st. Escaloped.^'Dro'p it in cold water aftpr boiling, then cut in slices 1 inch thick. Wipe dry and season with salt and pepper. Then put a heaping tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and on the fire. When so hot thatit begins to turn brown, add a level tablespoonful of flour and stir. Now draw the pan back to a cooler part of the stove and gradually add half a pint of white stock-veal or chicken. Season this with a little salt, a grain of cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Put the roe in a small escalop dish and pour the sauce over it. Sprinkle" a cupful of grated bread-crumbs over the top and strew these with bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 min- utes, and serve in the dish in which it is baked. FISH. iia 2d. Baked.-~Dto^ the roe into boiling water, salted, and let cook geatly 20 minutes. Remove and drain. Butter a tin plate and lay the drained roe upon it Dredge with salt and pepper and spread with soft butter : dredge thickly with flour. Bake a half hour, basting, frequently with a thin mixture of flour, water, butter, and pepper and salt. 3d. Shad Roe with Green Peas. — Cook in salted water 10 minutes, then place in a deep frying pan containing a tablespoonful of melted butter, and let cook 10 minutes, turning once. Cook a pint of young green peas until tender, with one teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter tea- spoonful of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of butter added. Then put in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, and let cook 2 minutes longer. Cut the roe in 6 pieces ; put in the centre of a heated dish, and turn the peas over it. Lay the fillets of fish in a circle around, with the edge of one piece overlapping the other. 4th. Boil and slice the roe as in recipe for escaloped roe ; take out, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and fry like fish. 5th. Broiled Shad Roe. — ^Wash the roe, throw them in boiling salted water; allow them to stand for 10 minutes without boiling. Drain carefully, dry, place them on a greased broiler and then over a quick fire for 5 minutes, turning once. Serve with melted butter and ' chopped parsley. Planked Shad. — Take a long narrow baking pan and put it on the stove with a piece of beef suet to fry out slowly. Split a roe shad as for broiling, dry it well inside and out with a clean white cloth, rub it with quite a little salt, and after rubbing the pan with the melting suet lay the fish, skin up, in the ^bottom and set it in a hot oven. Let it brown and sizzle till it is puffed in tiny blisters all over the top, and then you can be pretty sure it is_done. Slide it out on a hot platter and serve garnished with lemon and parsley. Cooked in this way, all the rich juices of the fish are preserved, and there is not so much odor through the house. Planked Shad. — IL To plank shad properly select a smooth, thick plank a little longer than the fish to be cooked. It must be of hard wood like oak or hickory. Bore holes in plank and have wooden pegs to fit them. Shad can only be cooked in this fashion where an open fire is accessible. Spread the fish on the board and fasten it down by means of the pegs. Rest the end of the plank in a shallow COOK-* 114 FISH. dripping-pan ; put a little water and salt in pan at first, and now ptace the whole before a clear fire. Baste the fish often with the water in the pan, and add plenty of butter, so that it will be richly seasoned. When nearly done, add a sauce made of melted butter, to which is added wali^ut or tomato catsup. Many families have handsome planks, so that the shad may be served on. them, without risking its removal to a platter. But when this is impossible, slip the fish from the plank to a hot platter, and pour over it a sauce of melted butter and walnut catsup, or any good fish sauce.' Serve with sharp and spicy pickles. Baked and Stuffed Sbad. — Take a fresh shad that weighs about 2 pounds, clean thoroughly, wash and rub with salt ; make a stuffing by chopping about a quarter pound of fat salt pork and wheat bread crumbs, 1 pint ; season with peppfir and salt if needed, and if not moist enough, use a little new milk ; cut gashes in the fish from head to tail, about 1}4 inches apart; stuff the fish and wind a twine around it from end to end ; cut very thin strips of fat salt pork, put in the gashes, sprinkle with flour, put a little water in the pan ; bake 1 hour; after taking the fish from the baking pan you can make a gravy, if you like, with a spoonful of flour and water and a little butter. In- stead of milk to moisten the bread crumbs in the dressing, a beaten egg can be used. Broiled Sbad. — Rub th^ fish with olive oil, as it gives a delicious flavor, place on a buttered broiler a nicely wiped shad, and broil over a moderate fire. Garnish with slices of lemon. Butter can be used to rub the fish instead of oil. Salmon. Salmon is at its best from the 1st of April until the end 6£-July, The freshness of the fish can be distinguished by the brilliancy of the skin and bloody gills and eyes. If the skin and eyes are dull, the fish is not fresh. Highly colored salmon is the best; whitish fish denotes inferior quality. Boiled Salmon. — -Two tablespoonfuls of salt and a teacupful of vinegar to 1 gallon of water, are the proper proportions for season- ing and cooking a 10-pound salmon. The vinegar added to the water will entirely prevent the salmon from breaking and will impart a nice flavor. Some cooks tfirow in a bay leaf and a sliced onion. Families purchasing a fresh salmon should parboil the portion not required FISH. lib jbr the day's consumption and lay it aside in the liquor. Boil it in this liquor when wanted. By this means the curd will be set and the fish vlrill be equally good as at first. Salmon is better put into warm water instead of cold in order to preserve its color and set the curcl^ It should be thoroughly well dressed to be wholesome. Scale it, empty and wash it with the greatest care, do not leave any blood in the inside that you can remove, boil the salt rapidly in the fish kettle for a minute or two, taking off" the scum as it rises, put in the salmon, first trussing it in the shape of the letter S, and let it boil gently till it is thoroughly done. Take it from the water on the fish plate, let it drain, put it on a hot folded fish napkin, and garnish with slices of lemon. Sauce, shrimp or lobster. Send up dressed cucumber With salmon. The custom of serving up rich sauces is unknown in coun- tries where salmon most abound. A little lemon juice, or white wine vinegar added to melted butter, being quite sufficient. Baked Salmon. — Select a thick piece of salmon and put it in the baking dish. Add half a cup of water and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Cover the pan with another the same size, and bake in the oven for half an hour. Place the salmon on a hot platter. Rub a heaping tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour together to a creairf. Add gradually J. cup or half a pint of boiling milk. Stir over the fire until it thickens. Take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the crumbled yolk of 2 hard-boiled eggs, a table- spoonful of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne. Serve the salmon garnished with potato balls and the sauce in a boat. The canned salmon containing whole .i,teaks weighing a pound, each may be similarly served. It will retjuire only making very hot in the oven when the sauce is to be made as above. Baked Salmon Trout. — This deliciOusly flavored game-fish is baked as other fish, but should be accompanied with cream gravy. Bake it slowly, baste often with butter and water. When done have ready in a saucepan, diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water in Vhjch has been stirred carefully 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a scant tablespoonful of flour, and a little chopped parsley. Season ,with pepper and salt. Heat this in a vessel set within another of boiling water. Add" the gravy from the dripping-pan, boil up once to thicken, and when the trout is laid on a hot dish pour this ^auce around it, or serve in a separate dish. 116 FISH. Fresh Salmon, Fried. — Cut the slices three-quarter inch thick, roll in flour or dip first in beaten egg and then in bread-crumbs. Fty a light-brown on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. This method answers for frying all fish. Fry in a mixture of butter and lard. Some cooks roll in corn meal instead of flour. Pickled Salmon.— Take a fresh salmon, clean, cut in large pieces and boil in salted water. Drain, wrap in a dry cloth and set in a cold place till next day; Then make the pickle which must be in propor- tion to amount of fish. To 1 quart of the water in which the salmon was boiled, allow 2 qliarts of the best vinegar, 1 ounce of whole black peppers, 1 nutmeg broken to bits and 12 blades of mace. Boil all these together (cover the kettle to prevent loss of flavor). When the vinegar, thus prepared is quite cold pour it over the salmon. Gover closely; put in a dry, cool place, arid it will keep many months. It is a delicious dish. A tablespoonful of sweet oil poured over the top of the vinegar will make it keep longer. BroUed Salmon. — Cut it in slices, put in a buttered double broiler. Broil quickly, turning first one side and then the other. When dished, rub butter over it. ■* Salmon Salmi. — ^Take canned or cold boiled salmon, flake it and add to it an equal amount of shredded lettuce, or the heart of a white cabbage, mix and pour over it the following dressing : 1 egg (beaten), 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one-half teaspoonfiil salt, dash of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls salad-oil or melted butter. If preferred, some of the cooked salad sauces may be used. St. Croix Salmon.— Remove the oil, bones and skin, and drain carefully, and break into flakes. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a hot frying-pan ; when it is melted add the fish ; sprinkle with pepper and salt, It may be allowed to brown, or merely heated through Turn it out on a hot dish, garnish with parsley or water-cress, and serve. Salmon on Toast. — Mince fine the contents of 1 can of salmon,' season with salt, pepper, and 5 tablespoonfuls of rich milk, heat and pour over buttered toast. Salmon Pie. — Put in baking-dish one can salmon, season with salt and pepper, cover with mashed potatoes and" bake till brown. Salmon Pie. — II. Make a crust like a chicken -pie; remove the skin and bones from a can of salmon; put a layer of salmon, then one of FISH. lit rolled cracker; sprinkle with salt, pepper and a few bits of butter; repeat until salmon is used. Use juice and a little water for moisture; cover with the crust. Serve with green peas and mashed potatoes, and the result is a very good dinner. Canned Salmon, Plain. — ^Arrange the fish in as large pieces as possible, picking out the bones. Garnish with lemon and parsley, and serve vinegar with it. Deviled Salmon. — Arrange the fish in as neat flakes as possible. Arrange lettuce leaves around the plate, and pour the following dressing over the fish. Dressing. — Yolks of 3 hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful of salad-oil, or melted butter. Rub with the eggs to a smooth paste ; add 2 teaspoonfuls each of sugar and mustard, salt and cayenne to taste; add a little viijegar, and mix all thoroughly. Ood-Pish. Baked Stuffed Cod-Fi8li.^Wash and wipe dry a 5-pound cod- fish, cut open- and fill with dressing as for turkey; stew it up; make incisions across the fish and put srnall pieces of butter in ; baste with salt and flour; cut up small pieces of fat pork and lay in the pan beside the fish ; put water in the pan and bake with a moderate fire 2^ hours ; do not turn the fish ; when done remove it from the pan ; make gravy with water left in the pan ; add flour and a piece of butter and pour it over the fish ; serve with mashed potatoes, tomatoes and celery. Boiled Cod-Fish. — ^Take a small cod-fish. Cover the fish with 3 quarts of cold water in which are placed a handful of salt, half a wineglass of vinegar, one small carrot cut in slices, one onion also cut fine, three bay leaves, three sprigs of thyme and a bunch of parsley roots; Let the cod-fish come to the boiling point and simmer slowly, bubbles arising on the edge of the kettle, for 30 minutes. Then lift it out, pull off the skin, and surround it With new boiled potatoes cut in quarters and tossed five minutes in a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little white pepper for. every six pota- toes. Add a few sprays of parsley over the fish. Boiled Cod-Fish.— II. Sew up the piece of fish in thin cloth, fitted to shape, boil in salted water (boiling from the first), allow about 15 minutes to the pojind. Carefully unwrap and pour over it cream or egg sauce. 118 FISH. Cod a la Flamande. — Have the steaks cut two Inches thick ;^ grease the baking-pan and sprinkle the bottom with chopped onions/ parsley, bits of butter and a bay loaf; lay the steaks on this, brush over the top with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle with chopped onion and parsley and pour 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice to each steak. Bake 30 minutes and serve with bechamel sauce. ^ Cod's Roe. — Cod's roe boiled and served with caper Sauce is Very palatable. Prick the roe and boil in slightly salted water; drain, dish on a folded napkin, and send to the table with the accompani- ment of caper or parsley sauce. Cut in slices one-half inch thick. Cod's Boe Pudding, — Boil 8 potatoes, mash them thoroughly with cream, salt and a little butter. Boil 1 pound of cod roe for 20 minutes; take the skin off, mix well with the potatoes, and add 4 eggs, 2 ounces of butter, pepper and salt. Sake for 15 minutes, cover the top of the dish with white of egg, and bake until brown. Sdrve with oyster sauce, or the oysters may be cut up and mixed with the other ingredients. Salt Ood-Pish. Broiled Salt Cod.-^Soak nice white strips of the fish for several hours in cold water; dry them with a cloth, and lay them over clear hot coals on a broiler that has been rubbed with suet. Brown the fish nicely on both sides, remove to a hot platter and lay upon each piece a little fresh butter. : A fringe of fried potatoes is a good ac- companiment. Codfish is good boiled, but it should be well soaked and be allowed to simmer for two or three hours. It may be served with drawn butter; hard-boiled eggs sliced on it make a fine addition. Cod-Fish Stew. — A teacupful of flaked fish, soaked 10 minutes in cold water and squeezed dry. Simmer in a pint of water for 5 minutes. Add, first, a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, rubbed together; next, two eggs and two tablespoonfuls cream after taking from the fire. Pepper to taste. Creamed Cod in a Potato Cdae. — Boil and mash 6 good-sized potatoes. Add 1 beaten egg, a gill of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper. Then beat the potatoes till very light. Pick and scald 1 pound of boneless salt cod, and drain and scald again. Shred and press the fish till dry. Put 1 large tablespoon- ful of butter in a pan with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 pint of milk. Stir till it boils and thickens. Add a couple of /pinches of FISH. 119 pepper. Grease a small pudding mould, and line the bottom and sides with the potato. Add the fish to the cream sauce, and fill in the centre of the mould with it. Then cover over with a thick layer of the potato, and bake till a nice brown. When done, turn it out and serve. Creamed Cod-Fisli. — Soak, boil and pick the fish same as for fish- balls. Pour boiling water over it and place on range, where it will just simmer. Put 1 pint (or more) cream or rich milk in double boiler, come to a scald; thicken like cream toast; cook thoroughly and strain on to the drained salt fish ; season and serve. If milk is used 2 hard-boiled eggs cut up and added are nice. Add a little butter with milk. Be sure the fish is tender and not too salt before adding to milk. Serve with hot creamed or baked potatoes. Creamed codfish cap also be made with rich milk and no thickening. Put in a lump of butter. It is very nice poured over slices of toast laid on a large platter. Cod-Fish and !Eggs> — Stir together in a saucepan over the fire, until thoroughly mixed, 1 tablespoonful each of butter 'and flour. Add half a cupful of water and 1 cupful of shredded cod-fish that has been previously freshened. Let simmer 5 minutes, stir in 2 eggs, cook gently until the eggs are sufficiently done, then serve. Add a little pepper. Pour into a deep platter, and serve with a border of new potatoes (either steamed or boiled). When these are out of season, serve in a border of mashed potatoes, beaten until creamy. Salt Fish Chowder. — Pick in small bits salt fish enough to fill a saucer ; then fill the saucer with cold water and let it stand while pre- paring thp chowder; fry 4 or 5 slices of salt pork; be careful not to burn it; when done take out; pare and cut fine 2 good-sized onions; pare and slice 6 potatoes; put them in the kettle, drain the water off the fish, and. put in on top of the potatoes; shake in a little pepper; cover with water; while it is boiling make a thickening of 2 table- spoonfuls of flour and cold Water enough to mix thin ; when the potatoes are soft add the thickening; put the kettle on top of the stove ; let it boil 2 or 3 minutes ; then add 1 or 2 cups of milk ; stir it very carefully and taste ; if too fresh, add a little salt ; if not riph enough, add a piece of butter; if any one likes crackers in the chowder, before dishing up take common crackers, split them and dip in cold water quick ; lay on top the chowder 1 minute. , 120 FISH. OM-FasMoned Fish-balls. — One pint of salt fish after being cooked and picked fine, 1 quart of mashed potato mixed with the fish tvhile warm ; mix with this 3 or 4 slices of salt pork, cut vejty fine and fried brown in the pan. _ Mix this with the fish-balls, add a few spoonfuls of milk, beat thoroughly ; form in balls. Add a little lard to the fat in the pan, roll the balls in flour and fry brown'on both sides. Cod-Fish Balls and Bacon. — Make after above rule. Fry thin slices of bacon. After this is done fry the codfish-balls in the bacon- fat to a delicate brown. Serve all on one platter, arranging the bacon on the outer edge. Fish Puflfs. — One cup cooked codfish (any cold fish will do), 2 cups mashed potatoes^ 1 tablespoonful butter, dash of red pepper, yolks of 2 eggs. Stir all thoroughly together ; then add well-beaten whites of the eggs, whip in very lightly, bake 20 minutes in hot oven ; serve at once. Breaded Fish.^-Take a half-pint of dried bread crumbs, 1^ tea- spoonfuls of salt, a sixth of a teaspoonful of pepper, an egg, 2 pounds of any kind offish, fat for frying. Have the fish free from skin and bones, and cut it into pieces. Season it with the salt and pepper. Beat the egg in, a soup plate and dip the fish in it, one piece at a time, getting every part covered with the egg ; then roll in the crumbs and lay on a plate. Have enough fat in the frying kettle to float the fish. When it be- comes so hot that blue smoke risfes from the center, put in the fish and cook for 5 minutes. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot. Tartar sauce is particularly good to serve with breaded fish. Planked "White Fish. — Place fish with the skin side down on a hardwood plank, brush over with butter and broil. Cook slowly, but do not turn. When done slice tomatoes on the board all around the edge of the fish, garnish with parsley and serve on g. platter which will hold the board nicely. The smoke from the board gives the fish a delicious flavor. Baked White Fish. — ^After dressing, split the fish down the back and remove the backbone. Wipe the fish and dip in beaten egg. This may be applied with a feather. Roll in flour and then in egg again. . Lay it in a baking pan that has been previously heated, add dripping or butter, and bake carefully in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Baste often. Ifthefishis properly cooked, not scorched, it will be of a rich yellow-hlrown. Serve with hot fish-sauce. FISH. 121 Btelt WMte Fish. — Place in plenty of cold water over night, or still better, in a pan of sour milk. Scald slightly when ready for cook- ing, lay on a well-buttered plate with bits of butter over the fish, and put it into the oven till the butter melts, after which it is ready for use. Fish Croquettes with Cream Sauce. — One half-pint of milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls butter ; 3 even tablespoonfuls flour ; 1 egg yolk ; 1 table- spoonful chopped parsley ; one-fourth of a grated nutmeg ; 2 cUps cold boiled fish ; seasoning. Put the milk on to boil. Rub together the butter and flour, then stir them into the boiling milk, stir until a thick paste is formed, add the yolk of egg and parsley. Mix and add the boiled fish ; mix again and add a palatable seasoning of salt and cay- enne, and turn out to cool. When cold, form into cutlets or cro- quettes. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in very hot butter. Drain on brown paper and serve very hot with cream sauce. Fish Hash. — One pint salt fish shredded fine, 2 bowls potatoes pared and cut small, place in stew-pan, cover with water, boil 25 minutes, drain off" water, place on stove 3 minutes to steam, mash per- fectly smooth ; add 1 raw onion chopped very fine, 1 cup cream, 1 egg well beaten, then beat with spoon 5 minutes ; have hot in frying pan the fat of four slices salt pork, into which put the hash and cook until the edges look brown about 10 minutes, avoid burning, turn carefully on hot platter bottom side up, and serve hot. Fish Stew. — ^Three to 4 pounds of codfish, cut crosswise (not split in back) in 2 to 2^-inch pieces, pare 4 or 6 potatoes, according to size, slice them half-inch thick ; onion, as much as wanted, slice also, (we use 2 if large) ; a deep pan, 1 }4 cups water ; put your potatoes in -first, then your fish, then onion, 1 tablespoon salt, a little black pepper, 2 ounces of butter. When the fish is nearly done mix 1 table- spoon of flour in a little cold water and add. Take care it does not burn. Fish Curry. — Chop an onion very small, bruise 12 cloves in a mortar and fry these in 2 ounces of butter. Add 1 tablespoonful pi curry powder, stir and then put in any cold fish you may happen to have, nicely flaked. Let it get rather dry, and then pour in half a cup , of canned tomato and a little salt ; mix to a paste. Make a puff" paste and line the patty pans with it, and then pour in the curry mixture' cover each patty with the paste and bake a golden brown. 122 FISH. Baked Blue Fish. — Scale, cleanse and fill with dressing as for Saked fish, stuffed. The common stuffing is dried and sifted bread crumbs, bits of butter, pepper and salt to taste. Bass, Pike and Pickerel. — These fish can be treated in the same ^shion. BroUed Blue Fish. — Have the dealer of whom you buy the fish clean if and split it, removing the back bone entirely, wipe it nicely, grease your double wire broiler well with salt pork, put the thick part of fish next to the middle of broiler, flesh side down^ and cook till a nice brown, then turn and just crisp the skin, as it burns easily. Have ready a platter that will not injure to put in a hot oven, loosen the fish carefully from broiler and slip it off on to platter, skin-side down; salt and butter it \yell, and. place in hot oven for 6 minutfes, , then leave door open till ready to serve, when slip off on to hot platter for table. Creamed Pike. — Boil a 3-pound fish, pike is best, but any fish will do ; remove the skin and bones, flake it until finely minced, add juice of 1 onion, 1 saltspoon pepper, 1}^ saltspoons of salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1^ cups of milk, 1 tablespoon flour. Put in individual dishes and sprinkle top with bread drumbs which have been stirred in a well-heated pan with butter. Put in oven until light-brown on top. Serve hot. Breaded Bass. — Clean the bass well and soak in salted water. Beat 2 eggs with a spoonful of cream ; dip the fish in this and then into crackers rolled fine. Fry a few slices of salt pork, and, removing them, fry the fish in the same dish. Unless these are very large, they are not split, but are fried on each side until brown. Serve with parsley and slices of lemon upon it. Sheepshead. — Choose a small one ; the larger fish are dark in color and apt to be dry and tasteless. Scale, pare and cleanse it well; truss the head to the body and set to boil in salted water, to which must be added one-half cupful of vinegar. At the end of 40 minutes slide it on to a folded napkin, and serve. Flaked Fish. — ^Take 1 pint of cold cooked fish, flake it. Make /the following sauce: Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in a sauce-pan, rub it to a cream with a tablespoonful of flour. Pour in slowly one-half cup of boiling water, stirring all the time. Add 1 tea.spoonful of mixed mustard, and 1 of anchovy or pepper-sauce, or a dash of cay- FISH. 123 «nne pepper. Then stir in 1 cupful of rich milk. Add the flakefi Ish, heat well, and serve. A nice breakfast or lunch dish. Fried Trout. — Clean, wash and dry the fish, roll lightly in flour and fry in butter or clarified dripping. Let the fat be hot. Fry quickly to a delicate brown, and take up the trout the instant they are done. Lay for a moment upon a hot-folded napkin to absorb What- ever grease may cling to their speckled sides. Then range them side by side on a heated dish, garnish and send to the tablet Use no sea- soning except salt, and that only when the fish are fried in lard or unsalted dripping. ^ Fish Souffle. — Take fish left from breakfast, bone it thoroughly; put with an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, add a half-cup of milk gradually; then season with a small saltspoonful of salt and one-third saltspoonful of pepper; stir in 1 beaten egg. Put in a buttered dish and set in oven until it becomes very hot ; then beat the white of an- other egg very stiff and stir into the yolk, beaten with salt and pep- per. Heap over the fish and brown in the oven. Serve. Fish Force-meat Balls. — Take a little uncooked fish, whatever variety is to be served. Chop it fine with one-third as much raw salt pork. Mix it with a beaten egg, a few bread crumbs, and season the whole with pepper, salt, mace and nutmeg. A little catsup may be added; flour the hands and make it into small balls, and fry in hot dripping to a delicate brown. Serve with fish. Broiled Haddock with Tartar Sauce. — Prepare "a haddock weighing about 2^ pounds, with the bone removed and split open ready for broiling. It should be washed by wiping it with a cloth wet in salt water, and dried with a clean towel. Spread with soft butter, and broil it over a, hot, clean fire until it is done; when ready to serve, open the broiler and slide the fish on the platter with the flesh side of the fish uppermost. Spread with tartar sauce and garnish with slices of lemcm and parsley. Fillet of Haddock.— Procure a fresh haddock of about 2 or 2% pounds, remove all the bones and cut the fish into 4 pieces, season with one-half teaspoonful sdt and one-fourth teaspoonful pepper, sprinkle over the juice of 1 lemon, lay the fish in a covered dish with 1 sliced onion, cover and let stand 1 hour ; then wipe the fish dry. dust with flour, dip each piece separately into beaten egg, cover with fresh rolled crackers, and fry light brown in butter and lard mixed; 124 FISH. lay the fish on a hot dish, spread a little ftiaitrfe d'hotel butter over each piece, and serve. Smoked Haddock.— Skin smoked haddock, put in the oven and bake until it looks dry, then take up and put on a platter and put bits of butter over it, set back in the oven until the buttei; has meltec^ then serve. Turbot a la Creme. — One pint of cold fish chopped very fine. Take 1 large spoonful of butter, melt in saucepan and stir into it 2 spoonfuls of flour until smooth. Add 1 pint of milk, scalded, stir- ring well until it thickens. Season with one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, one-half teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne pepper, one-half teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Stir into fish, and put in shells or small china dish, covering the top with bread crumbs stirred into melted butter. Brown in oven 10 minutes. Fried Smelts.^Clean, wipe dry; put the tail in the mouth, fasten with skewer; season with salt and pepper; beat an egg with 2 table- spoonfuls of water; dip the smelts in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs until well coated; fry in deep fat for 5 minutes; tlrain. Serve on a platter on which is laid a fringed napkin. Decorate with sprigs of parsley and bits of lenion. If liked, serve with a mayonnaise sauce. Deviled Slirimps. — ^Open and wash 1 can of shrimps, put half j^nt of milk over the fire, add half pint of bread crumbs, stale, not dried ; cook a moment, take from fire and mix in a teaspoonful salt, a quarter teaspoonful pepper, a dash of cayenne, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a. teaspoonful onion- juice," and the chopped hard- boiled yolks of 3 eggs. Mix and add shrimps. Fill this in shells or individual dishes, cover with crumbs, dot with bits of butter and brown in a quick oven. Creamed Sbrimps. — Open and wash 1 can of shrimps. Drain. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in a saucepan ; when melted, add half pint of m.ilk, stir until boiling; add 1 tablespoonful salt,;half of pepper, and the shrimps. Stand over the tea-kettle for 20 minutes and serve. Shrimps on Toast. — Thoroughly dredge 1 pint of shrimps with flour. Fry in boiling lard. A wire /rying basket is most convenient for this. Drain them in a sieve, or on a piece of blotting paper. Season with pepper and a sprinkling of lemon juice, and lays them FISH. 125 dosely on pieces of fried bread, or daintily buttered toast. Surround with a border of parsley. Broiled Sardines. — Drain the sardines for 2 hours on a clean piece of blotting paper. Nicely toast thin slices of bread; butter them and arrange on a warm platter. Broil the fish over a clean, bright fire, and serve them on the toast. Deviled Sardines on Toast. — Talce the sardines from the box and drain all oil from them. Carefully skin and split them open. Prepare delicate slices of crisp toast, lay the sardines on these, sprinkle with cayenne and a grating of cheese. Put in the oven and leave only until heated through, as the toast should not be too dry. Serve at once. They can be served without the cheese. Fish Chowder. — Take a cod weighing about 10 pounds. (Other fish will do, but cod is best.) Have it cleaned. Cut it in slices an inch thick. Cut 1% pounds of fat, salt pork in thin slices. Slice 16 or 18 potatoes thinly. Take a large kettle, put in the pork, fry it out, and add to it 3 pints of water. Put in a layer of fish, then a layer of potatoes. Sift over all 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 1 teaspoonful of pepper, and a little flour; then the pork cut in strips; then another layer of fish and the remainder of the potatoes. Fill the pot with water until the whole is covered. Put over a hot fire and let boil 25 minutes. Have ready a quart of boiling milk and 12 or 14 soda crackers. Put these in and let boH five minutes longer. Serve hot. Delicious. Add a couple of onions sliced when the flavor is liked by the guests. - Brook Trout. — ^These are very delicate fish. Clean, wash and dry them ; split to tail ; season with salt and pepper, and flour them. Fry in salt pork drippings, or in a mixture of lard and butter. Let the fat be very hot, and fry quickly to a delicate brown on both sides. Lay side by side on d^ heated platter and garnish with parsley or celery. They are often served with their heads on, and sometimes crisply-fried slices of salt pork are sent up with them. Potted Fish.— Cut a fish in conveniently-sized pieces, rub salt on each side, place them in an earthenware crock, sprinkling in pepper whole, and other whole spices, allspice, cloves, mace, between each layer and cover with good cider vinegar. When the jai is nearly full, tie a paper over and cover this with an e'a.rthenware cover. Bake in a moderate oven between 3 and 4, hours. This is delicious, and will 126 FISH. keep 2 or 3 weeks in a cool place. Cod-fish, halibut, chicken tongue and ham may be prepared in the same manner. Eels. Fried Eels. — Eels can be found in market ready skinned for cooking. Split them lengthwise and remove the bone. Cut the strips into 3-inch lengths ; dredge with salt and pepper ; dip each piece in egg and then in cracker meal. When the lard is hot drop them in and fry about 5 minutes. Garnish with parsley and serve with potatoes. JEel Stew. — Cut the eel jn 2-inch pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with water enough to cover. Let stew ten minutes ; then throw in pota- toes cut in dice ; carrots sliced, and 2 smalls onions also sliced. Let cook until done. Thicken with a very little flour and one egg beaten. Let boil once or twice and' serve at once. Use no butter, as the eel abounds in fatty substances. ^ Broiled Eels. — Eels, if very large, are best split open, cut in short pieces, seasoned with salt and" pepper, and left standing several hours, after which they may be carefully broiled. Butter the bars of the gridiron to prevent scorching. Baked Eels. — Eels are very temjpting, cut in small strips and laid in a deep dish with bits of salt pork. Season with salt and pep- per. Cover well with bread-crumbs and bake half an hour. Eel Chowder. — For two persons : Take 1 poiimd eels, cut Op and cover with <1 quart cold water, 1 tablespoonful salt ; let boil 3 minutes ; skim out ; take a frying-pan and put 2 slices fat salt pork cut in dice and fry oul; a little ; then 1 onion, medium size ; cut fine and cook with the pork 2 minutes ; pour all into a porcelain kettle and add the water the eels were boiled in; 3 medium'-sized potatoes cut in dice; put in and boil about 5 minutes ; pick the eels from the bones and put in when potatoes are done ; heat 1 pint milk in separate dish (be sure' the milk will not turn and spoil chowder); season with more salt if needed ; pepper and buttei' to taste ; remove all from fire and pour milk in ; serve at once ; this is very rich ; if oyster-crackers are heated iti the oven 5 minutes before serving they are nicer for stews. (For all kinds of fish sauces see department of " Sauces and Gravies." For fish " salads " see department of " Salads.") To select poultry, choose those that are fresh and fat. To deter- mine whether they are young, try the skin under the wing or leg; iSff?*'"''''*'' if easily broken, it is young : or turn the wine backwards, and if it yields easily, it is tender; or press the lower end of the breastbone ; it it bends to the touch the fowl is young, as in a young fowl this lower, tip is not yet bone, but a gristly substance. Moreover, there is a simpler and better test, which applies to all undressed fowls and game. When they have been killed for a long time, the eyes are sunken. Choose a yellow-skinned fowl, and a hen bird is preferable, as having the finer flavor, and being more profitable on account of their shorter, broader shape, thus giving more meat in proportion to the weight. The hen turkey is especially fine for boiling. Chickens only shoijld be scalded. Other fowls and game should be picked dry until the feathers are removed. _ Singe to remove the down and hair. Chickens or fowls should always be purchased dry picked. Though they do, not look as plump and full as the scalded poultry, they are jucier and sweeter. Giblets of a fowl are the neck, pinions, gizzard, heart and liver ; to this list some cooks add the head and feet. All kinds of poultry and meat can be pooked quicker by adding to the water in which they are boiled a little vinegar or piece of lemon ; a piece of soda (baking), the size of a pea, will answer the same purpose. A tainted .fowl will lose the bad taste or odor, if cooked in this manner; if not used too freely, no taste. will be ac- quired. One tablespoonful of vinegar will usually prove sufficient In roasting or boiling whole any fowl, truss it, which means-to draw the thighs close to-the body, cross the legs at the tail, and tie firmly to the body with twine, which is removed before serving ; or, pass the legs through a slit in the skin, near the tail. Skewer the wings close to the body. To broil, split the body down the back and lay it open. In cutting up fowls for fricassee, do not break the bones'i 127 128 POULTRY. cut the joints. Fowls with white meat should be well cooked; wi|^; dark meat, if the individual taste prefer, they may be slightly under- done. As a rule, however, fowls should be well done. In roasting a chicken or small fowl, there is danger of the legs browning, and becoming too hard to be eaten. To avoid this, take strips of cloth, dip them in a little melted lard, or even just rub them over with lard, and wind them around the legs. Remove them in time to allow the legs to brown delicately. Again, when roasting a chicken, first cut. off the " drumsticks " and lay them in the pan beside the fowl ; when donfe they will be tender and juicy,,instead of being dry, tough and scorched, as they usually are. None of these plans will be necessary, however, if one has a regular roastirig-pan. Even two pans of the same size make a very fair substitute, by using one as a cover for the other. Turkeys should be bought with white meat and black legs. As they advance in years their legs get red. Chicken turkeys are one of the most esteemed luxuries in the market, and whether they are best roasted and stuffed with chestnuts and sausages, so that the crisp skin is fairly bursting with sg,voriness, or boiled with a celery sauccj so that each mouthful fairly melts in the mouth, epicures find it hard to decide. Steam or parboil an old fowl before roasting, not adding stuffing until it goes in the oveii, but putting a few sticks of celery inside to flavor it. To test whether a fowl is done, slit the skin a little between the leg and body with a sharp knife, and if the flesh there be still raw looking, the bifd is not cooked enough. To Dress Poultry. — The manner of preparing chickens and turkeys is the same, except that with turkeys the sinews should be drawn from the legs. This is accomplished by cutting the skin round at the joint where the foot unites with the drumstick and twist the two pieces a little to bring out the white tendons. There are a few in front and a large bunch at the back of the legsinclosecf in a thin layer of muscle-like membrane that makes ^hem look like one large muscle. Scrape off the thick layer and divide the tendon into its small parts, and they may be drawn out one by one by passing a fork or skewer under them and pulling vigorously. The despised drumstick is now a dainty piece of dark but tender meat, which may even be breaded and cooked by itself as a specially choice dish in various POULTRY. 129 vrays. Even where it is served with other cuts, |ricassee, stew, roast or broil, the sinews should always be removed. Pick the fowl carefully, singe by twisting a newspaper, not too tightly, and letting the flame flare up out of a hole on top of the range. Turn and re- turn the fowl over this, and the result will be most satis- factory. To draw the fowl, make an incision at the lower part of the breast bone. Cut off the oil-bag and remove the en- trails, preserving heart, ' liver and gizzard. Carefully ' remove the gall- bag from the liver ; if it should be .broken, it will im- part its intense bit- terness to all the Improved BoaBter and Baker. organ. Make an incision through the thick part and first lining of the gizzard, peeling off the fleshy part. Clean the heart, and throw them all into slightly salted water. Cut off the feet at the first joint, and if it be a turkey or a chicken a year old, remove the tendons of the drumsticks according to directions given above. Cut a slit in the neck and remove the crop and the wind-pipe and wash the fowl care- fully inside; rinsing in salt water is desirable; cut off the pinions or thumb joints of the wings and the neck and add them to the giblets. Draw the skin of the neck together and tie. '.■ Glaze for Cold Poultry or Meat. — Meat and poultry, to be served cold, may be very much improved in appearance by being glazed. The process is very simple. An excellent glaze maybe made of half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of water, and flavored as well as colored with extract of beef. To be successful the meat must he perfectly cold brfore the glaze is put on. and the -first coating COOK— 9 130 POULTRY. should be allowed to dry before the second is applied. The glaze must be well melted and warm and applied, With a brush. Turkey. Koast Turkey. — Select a young gobbler, as a hen turkey is not as finely flavored, and to heighten this rich flavor have it dry picked. If the turkey has been carefully drawn, wipe out the inside thoroughly with a damp cloth. Washing with much 'water extracts the delicate juices. If not very tender, par boil for an hour before roasting or stuffing. After the turkey has been filled, not too tightly, with the kind of dressing decided upon, sew up with twine, draw the legs firmly against the body, fold the wings under jthe back and tie all firmly together with clean cotton cord. Grease the bird well with butter, place it in a hot oven to sear quickly to prevent the juices escaping during the roasting. Some cooks save a piece of the turkey fat, and fasten that with wooden tooth-picks over the breast bone. When seared, add a pint of boiling water to the pan and baste frequently. Twenty minutes to the pound is the usual length oiF time allowed for roasting. Serve with giblct gravy, and cranberry,; plum, or currant jelly should always go with it. Sw6et potatoes are a suitable vegetable to go with it. The old Virginia style of sur- rounding the turkey when dished with small, fried sausages no larger than a dollar, interspersed with tiny cucumbej pickles, still finds favor with a conservative few. Small link sausages are also used for garnishing. Giblet Gravy. — Boil the giblets in salted water; when done chop fine and return to the water in which tliey were boiled. After the turkey has , been lifted to its hot platter, skim the grease from the gravy in the roasting pan, turn ia the chopped giblets, thicken with browned flour, let boil, add a spoonful of lemon juice and serve. Turkey -with. Oyster Pressing. — An oyster dressing is cpnsid- ered by all lovers of the bivalve a great addition to this king of birds. Add to one-half loaf of stale baker's bread one-half cupful of melted butter ; season with salt and pepper. A couple of stalks of celery chopped fine are an addition. Strain one quart of oysters carefully froni the liquor, stir into dressing and moisten with half of the oyster liquor, adding enough water to make the right consistency ; do not make a paste of it. Fill the turkey with this mixture, sew up, butter POULtRY. 181 tfie breast or fasten on a piece of turkey fat, baste frequently vtrith the remainder of the oyster liquor ; if there is not enough, weaken it with a little water. Roast according to first rule for turkey. Some cooks bind this dressing by mixing in a beaten egg, and use milk for moist' ening instead of water. Sometimes, where oysters are scarce, a couple dozen fresh oysters finely minced may be stirred into the dressing, simply as flavoring, and the moistening done with water, or water and milk. Where an oyster dressing is used the bird may be garnished with large carefully fried oysters. In helping give one oyster with each portion of meat served. Some professional cooks clain^ that the fat drawn from the bird, melted and used in place of butter, gives a more delicate flavor to the stuffing. Oyster sauce is nice to serve with this roast turkey. Sausage Dressing- for Turkeys. — To 2}^ pounds of common crackers, rolled out a few at a time on a bread board until quite fine, add enough of spiced seasoning to give the proper flavor to the dress- ing, a piece of butter, salt, 1 or 2 unbeaten eggs (if you have to spare) and 1 pound of best raw sausage, with the skins removed before adding to the mixture, which is now ready to thoroughly mix with your hands. After this, moisten gradually with clear water, only enough to have adhere lightly together, using a^ spoon, and do. not make a paste of it. This is a delicious dressing, a more toothsome dainly than the fowl itself, and will do for roast meats where a dressing is used. Old-Fashioned Stuffing for Turkey or Chicken. — Crumb up 1 loaf of stale bread, mix it with a half cup of butter, 1 egg, salt, pepper, sage and thyme or celery to taste, all brought to the con- sistency of mush by the addition of hot water. Thorough epicures never use sage in dressing, claiming that it injures the delicate flavor of the fowl. Giblet Dressing. — Take the gizzard, heart and liver of the turkey, boil till tender, take them and three-quarter pound of salt pork ; chop all together, then take 8 or 10 crackers, roll fine, add to the chopped meat ; then add pepper and salt and sage, or prepared seasoning, and wet it up with the water in which the, giblets were boiled. This makes a delicious dressing. If an onion flavor is liked, chop up 1 onion and add. Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. — Most delicious of all is a chestnut stufifing, the rich nuts giving a peculiarly delicate taste to 132 POULTRY, the fowl. To make it shell a quart of chestnuts. Put them in hot water and boil until the skins are softened, then drain off the water and remove the skins. Replace the blanched chestnuts in water and boil until soft. Take out a few at a time and press them through a colander or potato press. They will mash more easily when hot. Season the mashed chestnuts with a tablespoonful of butter, a tea- spoonful of salt and a quaifter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, or a very little soup stock. Mix with a plain dressiiig of butter and bread crumbs moistened to the right con- sistency with hot water. , In filling the turkey do not crowd in-the 'stuffing. Sew up the openings and tie or skewer the legs and wings in shape. Rub thickly with butter and salt and dredge with flour. Place in a dripping-pan, and put half a cup of water in the pan. Use a moderate oven, and, cover the turkey with another pan for the first forty minutes. Baste frequently and turn the bird occasionally to expose all parts to the heat. It should be tender and moist and a golden brown all over when done. Garnish the dish with small balls of fried sausage or fried oysters and pa,rsley. Serve with a giblet dressing and cran- berries. Cooked chestnuts are nice to serve with it. Stuffing. — Two dozen fresh oysters, 3 good-sized potatoes, mashed fine ; a little pepper and salt and sage — a pinch — 2 ounces of butter, mixed with 2 cupfuls of dry bread crumbs ; a little cream to moisten. Fill the turkey and plkce it in a covered baking-pan, in which is placed a little nutmeg, 3 bay leaves, some salt and a small piece of onion arid 2 cups of water, and roast in a well-heated oven from 3 to 4 hours, according to size. Baste every 20 or 30 minutes and turn twice. Boast Turkey without StuflSng. — Epicures pronounce the flavor of turkey prepared in this manner superior to that where stuffing is used. Dress in the usual manner ; cleanse by carefully wiping the inside with a soft, damp cloth. Turn the wings against the back at the first joint, and secure the. legs closely to the sides with cord. Place the turkey in a sauce pan, dust over it a little pepper, and lay upon the breast a large piece of butter. Bake half an hour in a very hot oven ; do not put any water in the pan, but baste with the oil that fries out and the melted butter. After the half hour cook slowly and steadily, allowing 20 minutes for each pound. Fifteen minutes before removing from oven sprinkle ¥/ith salt. Serve with giblet gravy. POULTRY. 133 Boiled Turkey. — Many old-fashioned cooks and some of the new- fashioned consider that the proper way to cook a turkey is to boil it To do this singe, draw and wash the turkey thoroughly, wipe with a soft cloth and rub the inside with salt. Make a stuffing of 1 quart of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper and chopped parsley, and mix the ingredients together with an egg. Chop up several stalks of celery and add. Fill the breast of the fowl with some of this stuffing and put the remainder into the body. Tie the legs and T/vings close to the body and place it in salted boiling water with the breast downward. Boil rapidly the first half hour, then draw it to the back of the stove and cook slowly until tender. Serve with celery or chestnut sauce. If oysters chopped are used in the stuffing, serve with an oyster sauce. Bread sauce is also used by some cooks. An old-fashioned custom was to serve ham or smoked tongue with a boiled turkey. Boned Turkey Boasted. — ^An easy way to^ bone a turkey is to slit the skin down the back with a sharp knife and, raising one side at a time, with the fin- gers separate the flesh from the bones until the wings and legs are reached; unjoint these from the body, and cut- ting through the bone, turn back the flesh and remove the bones. The flesh may be re-shaped by stuffing. Stuff" with force-meat made of veal and a little pork chop- ped fine, and season! with salt, pepper, sage ' or savory, and the juice of a lemon. Sew in shape, and press the wings and legs close to the body, and tie all firmly so that the upper surface may be smooth and plump. Lard the breast with narrow strips of firm, fat pork, and bake until thoroughly done, basting often 134 POULTRY. with salt and water and a little butter. Serve with a giblet dressing, to which has been added a cup of strained tomatoes. Braised Turkey. — Truss and stuff as for roasting, using a force- meat made of minced chicken or veal, mushrooms and sweetbreads, in addition to the bread ; lard the breast with fine, square shreds of fat salt pork ; place the turkey in a stewpan, breast uppermost, with sliced vegetables and sufficient broth to cover. Set it on top of the. stove, and as soon as it begins to simmer put into the oven and cook slowly for an hour and a half. Baste occasionally with the gravy. Garnish the turkey with stoned olives^and thicken the gravy. Turkey, or Chicken, Jellied. — ^Two cups of stock, in whicli an onion, celery and bay leaf have been boiled ; one-half pint of water, jne-fourth package of gelatine, a little salt and pepper, a tableapoonful of brown caramel ; dissolve the jelly in the stock and water, season with salt and pepper, place some of the jelly in a mould, add pieces of light and dark meat of boiled turkey or chicken, add more jelly, then meat till the mould is full. Serve garnished with celery. To Cook an Old Turkey, or Other Fowl. — No flesh, however tough, can resist five hours' steaming in a close kettle. A monstrous turkey, whose years were beyond comparison, was once accommo- iated with a position in a big wash-boiler, turned for the occasion into a steamer by a structure' of coarse wire fence netting near the bottom. After half-a-day spent in this steam bath, it was taken out, disjointed and the pieces dipped in melted butter, dredged thickly with flour and then fried in boiling fat, as doughnuts are fried. An epicure v^uld not have disdained the dish. Scalloped Turkey. — Moisten bread crumbs with a little milk; butter a pan and put in a. layer of crumbs, then a layer of turkey, cut in dice, and seasoned with salt and pepper, then a layer of crumbs, and some add a little chopped cold potato and so on until the pan is full. , If any dressing or gravy has been left, add it. Make a thick- ening of one or two eggs, half cup of milk and one-quarter cup each butter and bread crumbs ; season and spread over the top ; cover with a pan ; bake half an hour, and then let brown. Or, instead of the milk to moisten, make a broth from the bones, skimming them out, thicken a little and pour over before spreading over the top dressing. Turkey Bagout. — An appetizing way of using bits of turkey cold Is thus ! Take the pieces of turkey and free them from bone and POULTRY. 135 skin ; if there are any good-sized pieces, cut them in bits. Put the meat in a sauce-pan with whatever stuffing and dressing may have been left and a tablespoonful of butter. Season liberally with salt and cayenne pepper. Place over the fire and let boil. Turkey, Moulded. — Prepare exactly as above. Place over the fire, and when the mixture boils break into it .an egg and stir thoroughly. Turn into a buttered mould, and when cold turn it out into a dish and slice nicely. Turkey Pie. — Cut up fine, put in baking-dish with bits of butter, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, pour over one cup of water or stock ; cover with a thick layer of bread-crumbs, over which pour two well-beaten eggs. Bake until brown on top. Turkey Hash. — Cut the remnants of turkey, from a previous dinner, into small pieces. Boil the bones jn a quart of water until the quart is reduced to a pint ; then take out the bones, and add to the liquor they were boiled in, what turkey-gravy remains or some stock, or a small piece of butter, together with salt and pepper ; let it boil up; put in the pieces of turkey; add what dressing was left,- or dredge with a little flour. Let boil again, and serve in a hot dish. Chicken. Boast Chicken. — Dress, singe and prepare for stuffing same as turkey. Stuff with giblet dressing, oyster dressing, old-fashioned or any other preferred dressing as given for turkeys. Fill the breast of the chicken in at the neck until plump and even, draw the neck skin together, tie closely, place remainder of stuffing in at the other end and sew up the incision ; draw the thighs up close to the body, and tie the legs crossed over the tail firmly with twine. Fasten the wings to the body with skewers. Rub the chicken all over with a little butter with the ends of the fingers, and also a little salt. Dredge well, but not too thickly, with flour. Place in your dripping-pan on the raised grate, first placing two of thinnest slices of fat salt pork on the grate to keep the chicken from sticking. Place on the breast and thighs the thinnest slices of fat salt pork (with no streak of lean), keep- ing them in place by sticking a wooden toothpick in them. Have the oven hot. Allow 15 minutes to the pound for baking. Don't put any water in the dripping-pan at first. Allow the flour »o brown ,nicely, and the juice from the fat to get hot iand brown. 136 POULTRY. When well browned pour a cup of boiling water or one-half tea- spoonful butter and a little sal't, and baste the chicken with it. Repeat this occasionally, but add no more water unless it should all cook away. When one side is browned, turn other side, then on the back till breast is nicefy browned. Dredge with flour again about 15 min- utes before serving, and baste well. If it should get too brown before being well cooked, lay a buttered brown paper over it. Make a gib- let sauce according to rule before given, or a plain gravy in the pan, by turning off part of the fat, adding sufficient water and thickening with a little flour rubbed smooth in cold water or milk. Chicken Dressing's. — Use any of the dressings given for turkeys. CMcken Sauces or Gravies. — Use any of the gravies or sauces given for turkeys. Boned Chicken. — Prepare the same as for boned turkey. BoUed Chickens. — Prepare same as boiled turkey. Boiled Chicken with Oysters. — Pick and clean two plump chickens ; dress as for roasting ; rub over some salt and pepper and a little celery seed ; fill the inside with oysters ; secure the ends of the chickens and place them in a saucepan that has a tight lid ; place this in another containing boiling water; keep it boiling until the chickens are tender; then take them out; stir into the gravy the yolks of 2 eggs and one-quarter pint of cream; season to taste with salt and pepper; let the sauce get very hot, but do not allow it to toil, or it will curdle. Serve immediately. Baked Chicken with Kice. — Cut a chicken into pieces in the usual manner, season with pepper and salt, and place in a deep dish lined with thin slices of salt pork, ham, or bacon according to taste. Add a pint of veal gravy, into which has been stirred 1 finely-chopped onion, and fill the dish with boiled rice, heaping slightly. To protect from the direct heat of the oven, cover with a paste, which may be economically made of flour and water. Bake for an hour, remove the paste, and serve while hot. Chicken Fricassee. — Cut a well-cleaned chicken of 3 or 4 pounds into 10 pieces and place in A saucepan. Add 1 even tablespoonful salt, 1 even teaspoonful pepper, 2 onions; cover with boiling water and cook till tender; then mix 1 tablespoonful flour with 1 ounce butter, and add it to the fricassee. Ten minutes before serving mix 1 pint of prepared flour with 1 teaspoonful of butter, one-fourth cup- POULTRY. 137 ful of milk, 2 whole eggs beaten into a stiff batter : cut with a table- spoon small portions from the batter, drop them into the fricassee^ cover and boil 6 minutes ; then remove instantly the saucepan to side of stove, where they stop boiling. In serving arrange the chicken on a warm dish and lay the dumplings in a circle around it. Sprinkle 1 tablespoonful fine-chopped parsley over the whole and serve. The batter will make 12 good-sized dumplings. Brown Fricassee of CMcken. — Cut the chicken in 11 pieces. Place 2 ounces of butter. in a saucepan; when a nice brown put in the chicken. Stir till every piece is nicely browned, then add 2 table- spoonfuls of flour; stir again, add 1 pint of boiling water on stock, stir until it boils ; add a teaspoonful of salt. Cover and let simmer gently until tender, add a teaspoonful of onion juice and a little black pepper. Dish. Put the neck piece, heart, liver, gizzard and back pieces in the centre of the dish; put the two breast pieces on top, the second joint, on each side of the plate, the legs crossed on the other, and a wing at each end. Pour the sauce over, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. Fricasseed Chicken witli Oysters. — Boil a chicken or fowl until tender, first cutting it into small pieces. Take up the pieces and fry them in butter. Boil the water iuvwhich the chicken was cooked down to 1 pint, add salt and pepper to taste, butter the size of an egg, and flour to thicken. Drop a pint of oysters into the butter that the chicken was fried in and cook until the edges curl, then pour into the sauce with half a cup of cream added the last thing. Boil up and pour over the chicken. Dumplings for Fricasseed CMckens.-X-One and one-half cups of flour put into the sieve, into which put>l scant teaspoonful of soda, 2 scant teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, half teaspoonful of salt; sift twice, then add two-third cups of sweet milk ; mix light, handling as little as possible ; roll half inch thick ; cut with a knife into small squares ; sift a little flour over (very little). Then after the soup or stew is rightly seasoned and boiling well, lay the dumplings on top, covering tightly, and let theni boil for 15 minutes without removing the cover. Have it set off" where it will not burn or stick on. Kentucky Chicken. — Cut a fat hen into pieces and stew, add plenty of milk, thickening and butter, to make a good deal of rich gravy. Split little baking-powder biscuits, lay on the platter and 138 POULTRY. arrange the chicken and sauce over them. Edge the platter with thin slices of salt pork dipped in flour and fried. Brunswick Stew. — This is a Virginia concoction, and very pala- table it is too. A medium sized chicken cut as for frying, a potato for each member of the family, 2 ears of corn cut from the cob, a gen- erous handful of lima beans, and three nice round tomatoes. Salt and pepper to taste. The chicken is first parboiled and then the vegetables added, and the whole cooked an hour and a half longer. It may sound messy, but it tastes good. It is served in a deep platter and the only other vegetable used is rice^this last not mushy, but where each grain stands out by itself. CMcken Stewed with. Potatoes. — Prepare and cook chicken in same manner as for chicken pie ; just before chicken is quite done pare quantity of new potatoes, lay them on top of chicken, let them boil until done; then take potatoes up on plate by themselves, turn -pint of sweet milk in with chicken, thicken with flour, wet with sweet «iilk, season with pepper, salt and plenty of butter. Chicken Stewed with Tomato. — ^Cut up the chicken and fry at lightly, then make a rich brown gravy by dredging a little flour into the butter in which the chicken was fried. Put in sufficient water to make a bowl of gravy. Cut up the tomatoes (there should be a quart after they are skinned) and a medium-sized onion, add to them a little chopped parsley, salt, cayenne and black pepper. When all are well mixed put in the chicken, pouring in the gravy. Let stew for two hours. Then put in a pint bowl of. rice and let it stew slowljr an hour longer. It should be a moist stew. .' Chicken Stew, Creole Style. — ^Three pullets, 1 quart of tomatoes (fresh or canned), 6 green pepper pods, 1 quart stewed peas, 1 onion, 1 slice boiled ham. Joint the chickens and stew them together with the peppers, ham and onion in enough water to cover them until the meat falls from the bones. Remove the chicken to a large dish and keep hot. Strain the broth, put the tomatoes in the liquor and stew down thick, season with salt. Add the peas while hot. Pour the stewed tomato over the chicken, then the peas. Maryland Fried Chicken. — Cut up the chicken in joints, salt and pepper, put in stew pan, add^ enough hot water to keep from burning ; cover closely and set on back of stove to steam for one hour. Have ready a hot spider, remove chicken from saucepan and POULTRY. 1S9 brown in butter or lard, as desired ; when all the chicken is browned and removed to a hot platter then pour in the spider any liquid that may remain in saucepan, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour previously mixed to smooth batter, 1^ pints of milk and some parsley chopped fine ; boil all together, season sauce to suit taste and pour over chicken. By this method the chicken retains its fine flavor, is thor- oughly cooked, tender and delicious, without being dry, hard or un- derdone, as is so often the case with fried chicken. Chickens Fried In Batter. — Choose a fine chicken, cut it into pieces, dip them into egg batter ; bake them in the oven in clear hot butter for about 15 minutes. If the chicken is parboiled before frying or baking, there will be no danger of fhe chicken being underdone. Broiled Chicken. — Clean, dress, singe, etc. Cut down the mid- dle of the back with a sharp knife, remove the contents and clean thoroughly. Lay down upon a clean board and pound with a pestle to break the bones enough to make it lay flat. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and rub all over with the fingers some soft butter. Broil over a hot fire, constantly turning — or better still, pin nicely in buttered brown paper and broil, turning every few minutes, being careful not to scorch the paper. See that the paper is pinned in such a way as to,prevent any of the juice escaping. Or, prepare as above and sprinkle with fine bread crumbs and bake in a hot oven a good half hour. Baked Chicken.' — Split a dressed chicken down the back, put it in a baking-pan, chicken, inside down. Cover with strips of salt pork, pepper, salt and bake. It will be found delicious. Take up, pour off the fat from the pan graVy, add a cup of milk and let boil up. Chicken Pie. — Take a pair of fat chickens ; prepare and disjoint them. Put in a stew-pan and season highly with salt, black pepper and a little cayenne; dredge in a little flour, and cover well with cold water; stew over ai slow fire three-quarters of an hour. Line the sides of a deep baking dish with a nice crust. Lay the chicken in the dish, removing the largest bones. Pour in half the gravy^ jdredge lightly with flour, and add a few bits of butter. Roll out the upper crust, cover carefully, being sure to leave an opening in the top. Bake in a quick oven about an hour. Before sending to table pour in the remainder of the hot gravy. This pie is equally good made of cold chicken. Put the meat in layers, dredging flour and seasoning over 140 POULTRY. each, pour in some of the broth or gravy in which the fowl was cooked. Line the dish with paste and cover as before. Add bits of butter before putting on the crust. ^ Chicken Pie with Oysters. — Boil a g©od-size,d chicken until tender, drain off the liquor from a quart of oysters. Line the sides and bottom of a large, round pan with crust, put in a layer of oysters and a layer of chicken until the pan is full. Season with pepper, salt, bits of cottolene and the oyster liquor, add some of the chicken liquor. Cover with crust and bake. Serve with sliced lemon. Chicken Pot-Pie. — Cut up the chicken as for chicken pie, put it in a kettle, cover it with water, add a little salt, and boil until done ; have ready a light biscuit dough, ciit in squares, lay it on top of. the chicken, cover tightly and boil 30 minutes without lifting the cover or allowing the boiling to cease. Lay the chicken in a deep dish, removing the largest bones. Cover with the crust, season"' and thicken the gravy and pour over it. Light soda biscuit, or baking-powder biscuit, can be split and laid on a platter and fricasseed chicken poured over them hot. This is much more wholesome than the boiled pot- pie. This rule is applicable to veal, venison, and other pot-pies. Cold biscuit can be utilized as pot-pie. Heat and soften thoroughly , in the hot broth, arrange on a platter with the chicken, or any other variety of meat that may be used, and pour the gravy over all. These have the merit of being always light and digestible. Chicken Pot-Pie, Southern Style. — One large chicken, dis- jointed as for a stew, one pound of lean ham, four medium-sized potatoes. Make a plain pot-pie crust, any preferred style. Cut the ham and the potatoes into dice. Put a layer of chicken in the kettle, then a layer of potatoes, then a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Then the remainder of the chicken, and then the potatoes, ham, etc., pota- toes last. Pour in 1 quart of water. Roll out the paste an inch or more in thickness; Make an opening in it for the escape of steam, and lay it over the top of the last layer. Simmer continuously for 1 J^ hours. Half an hour before the pie is done, add, through the opening in the crust, 1 tablespoonful of butter cut in bits and rolled in flour. Dish on a large platter. Break up the crust in pieces and arrange around the edge of the platter. Chicken Short-Cake. — Make a short-cake with two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, 1 pint pf flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter rubbed POULTRY. 141 fnto the flour ; moisten with 1 cupful of sweet milk. Bake quickly. Tear open ; lay on a large platter and turn the stewed . chicken over it. Serve at once. Smothered Chicken. — Cut chicken as for frying, roll each piece in flour, with which has been mixed salt and pepper j have lard or butter hot in a skillet (half an onion chopped fine may be added if desired) ; pack the chicken in, dredge flour, pour in a pint of water, cover tightly and bake in a hot oven. Open the pan and_ brown lightly. Make a gravy in the pan. Chicken Pudding.- — Cut up two young chickens, stew in water enough to cover. When boiled quite tender, season ; take from the broth, remove all the large bones. Put the meat in a butter-ed baking- dish ; add some bits of butter and pour over them the following batter : 4 eggs, beaten light, 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 teaspoonful salt, and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with enough flour to make a batter like griddle-cakes. Bake one hour in a moderate oven. Make a gravy of the broth, thickening it with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water ; add a little boiling water to the gravy if necessary. Let boil up once. Serve hot in a gravy boat, with the pudding. Chicken Boly-Poly. — One quart of flour sifted with 3 teaspoon- fuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt ; no shortening. Roll put about one-half inch thick. Cover it with a layer of minced chicken, veal or mutton. Have the meat seasoned and free from gristle. Roll the crust over like a roll jelly-cake. Lay it on a buttered dish, with the folded-over end down, and put in a steamer for half an hour. Serve for lunch, giving a slice to each person. If there is any gravy ' Idt over from the day before or any broth, make hot gravy to serve with it. Chicken Tum-oyers.— Chop cold roast chicken fine ; heat it up with a little water and gravy, or butter. Season ; dredge with a tablespoonful of flour ; let boil up and remove from the fire to cool. When cool, roll plain pie-crast out thin; cut in rounds as large as a saucer; wet the edge with cold water; put a large spoonful of the minced meat on one-half of the round, fold the other half over; pinch the edges well together and cook in a hot oven. They may also be fried in hard fat like fried cakes. These are nice served hot, or a>ld they are a much-liked addition to the lunch-basket. X42 POULTRY. Stock Jielly for Poultry or Meats.^One quart of soup stock, seasoned with salt, white pepper, celery-seed and the j uice of 1 lemon ; let cool; remove the fat; then boil slowly with the white of 1 egg to clarify it. The egg and the sediment 'will rise ; skim carefully ; dis- solve 1 ounce of gelatine in the stock. Strain the whole jthrough a napkin. It can be colored different tints with the same colorings used for soup. It can be used in different ways with boned turkey," cold meats, etc., and can be cut in blocks for garnishing elabo^ rate meat dishes. CMcken Curry. — Cut up a chicken weighing about 2 pounds, as for a fricassee, and put over with sufficient w^ter to cover it; cook slowly until tender ; season thoroughly. Remove the chicken, pour the liquor in a bowl and set it to one side. Cuf up two small onions, and fry with a piece of butter ; when the onions are browh, skim out and put in the chicken ; fry three or four minutes ; next sprinkle over it 2 teaspoonfuls of curry powder. Pour in the liquor 'in which the chicken was ;stewed, stir all well together, stew five min- utes, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. A beaten egg may be stirred in at the last. Serve with a border of hot boiled rice laid around the edge of the platter, and the curry in the centre. It is a handsome side dish to accompany a full dinner, with roast meats. The curry powder may be bought, or made after the receipt given in this book. Other meats and other fowls may be prepared in this same fashion. Indian Curry. — Cut chicken or lamb into small pieces, and stew until tender. When partly cooked add 1 onion and 2 tomatoes chopped fine, and season with salt and pepper. When the meat becomes tender, skini it out and mix together 1 dessert-spoon of curry powder, 2 dessertspoons of tomato catsup, 2 dessertspoons pt Worcestershire sauce, and 2 dessertspoons of flour. Stir this into the gravy. Cook five minutes. Return the meat to the kettle. Let it boil up once, and serve with rice cooked dry. Chicken a la Tartare. — Take half-grown young chickens, split down the back, place in a baking-pon, spread thickly with butter, dust with salt anjd pepper, sprinkle with minced parsley and chopped onion, cover the pan, set in the oven for half an hour ; take up, brush over with beaten egg, dip in grated bread crumbs, and broil over th« fire until brown. POULTRY. 143 Mushroom Chicken. — Boil one hen until tender, tut off the meat and chop fine. Crack the bones and put them back in the water the hen was boiled in, and allow to simmer. Then put into a hot skillet 1 tablespoonful of butter, and then into this 3 tablespoons of sifted flour. One cup of milk and 1 cup of the stock, warmed together — pepper and salt. Put into a buttered baking dish 1 layer of the chicken, then a layer of chopped mushrooms, then some of the dress- ing, and so on until the dish is full. Cover with toasted bread crumbs and bake. Wetting the crumbs with a beaten egg makes them brown nicely Scalloped Chicken.— This very nice supper dish may be made from such bits of cold chicken as will not otherwise present a nice appearance, por each cupful of the minced chicken allow half as much white sauce j put the chicken in layers alternating with chopped hard-boiled eggs, 1 for each cupful ; season and moisten with the sauce; cover with bread crumbs and bake 15 minutes. Turkey or veal'may be used in this way, and instead of baking in one large dish. individual scallop shells may be used when it will make a nice course at dinner. Chicken Patties. — Pick the meat from a cold chicken and cut in small pieces. Put in a sauce-pan with a little hot wa.tor and milk, butter, salt and pepper. Thicken with a little flour and the yolk of an egg. Line patty-pans with good crust, glaze with the white of an egg, and bake. When done fill with the chicken and send to the table hot. .Cut out round cakes of the crust for the tops, and bake them. Novelty Chicken Pie. — Dress two chickens and cut each into nine pieces. Cut the breast in two parts, either crosswise or length-'^ wise. Unjoint the legs and cut off" the neck where it joins the ribs. Cook in plenty of water, adding a few slices of " boiling " pork. Re- move the meat before it is so tender that it will cleave from the bones. Let it stand till cold. Mix to a smooth batter a heaped quart measure of flour, a pint of sweet cream, a pint of milk, 3 beaten eggs, a heap- ing teaspoonful of salt and 2 full teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Rub the sides and bottom of a small pan or large basin with cold butter. Spread, a little more than a third of the batter over the bottom, then arrange half the meat, including the giblets, another layer of batter, then the remainder of the meat. Makb the top layer of the rest of 144 POULTRY. the batter, using a knife dipped in cold water to form a smooth sur- face. Strain the liquor in which the chickens were boiled, season to taste, and set where it will reach scalding heat, but not boil. Imme- diately before serving the pie, thicken the liquor with 3 well-beaten eggs and a little cornstarch wet with cold water if it is not as thick as desired. Minced CMcken. — Mince very fine the meat left from cold roast chicken,, removing all skin, bones and gristle. Put the bones and all the trimmings into a saucepan with a bunch of savory herbs and a pint of broth or water ; let this all cook for nearly an hour, and then strain it off. Chop 2 hard-boiled eggs very fine ; season the chicken with a little pepper, salt and mace j mix it with the eggs. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cup of cream. Pour the gravy over the chicken mixture; let it get very hot, but do not let it boil. Garnish the dish with sippets of toasted bread. It is nice to cook cold chicken in this fashion for chicken short-cake, etc. Little Dish of Chicken. CMcken Liegs, to Cook.^-There are many special and delicious Vfays of preparing individual parts of chicken, and in small families it is really more economical to cook some portions of a pair of chickens first, than to cook all at once and then re-serve. •Take the drum-sticks, boil about 20 minutes, and then bone, sea- son with pepper and salt and a pinch of mustard for each leg. Rub all over to see the seasoning is evenly distributed ; roU the drum- sticks, skewer, with small toothpicks, in shape. Cover with beaten egg, and then roll in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat about 6 minutes, browning each side. ServQ with a brown sauce made in the pan, stirring into it 1 even teaspoonful dry mustard, a pinch of cay- enne and 1 tablespoonful catsup. Turkey legs may be served in the same manner, only cooking longer. G-eese. Boast Goose. — Select a young goose, which can be told by a brittle windpipe, white skin, plump breast and yellow feet ; the web should tear easily. An old goose is known by its red feet. Singe, 4raw, wash and wipe the goose. Beat the breast fiat with a rolling- POULTRY. 146 pin, draw up the legs and skewer both legs and wings close to the body. Stuff with the following dressing: 1 pint stale bread crumbs, 2 medium-sized onions boiled and mashed, one-half teacupful boiled rice, 1 teaspoonful powdered sage, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-fourth teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful melted butter and one-half tea- cupful milk. Roast in a covered pan, allowing rather^more than 20 minutes to the pound. Baste frequently, with the following mixture: -One teaspoonful made mustard, a saltspoonful salt, a dash of cayenne, a large tablespoonful melted butter, a teacupful hotwater, a teaspoon-' ful vinegar. This basting is a great improvement. Boil the giblets slowly 2 hours, or until tender, with a slice of onion, 3 or 4 peppercorns and a blade of mace. When ready to make the gravy, take 2 tablespoonfuls of oil from the roasting pan of the goose ; add the water the giblets were boiled in, enough water to finish the gravy, the giblets, chopped very fine, and flour to thicken. Boil up and serve in a gravy boat. A cup of rich milk improves this gravy. Serve with hot apple-sauce. An a,pple dressing can be used, and is considered by ?ome to add greatly to the flavor of the goose. It is made as follows : Apple Dressing or Staffing. — One pint of tart apple-sauce, 1 tea- cupful of bread crumbs, a little sage, Salt and pepper. Mix and use to stuff roast duck, goose and some kinds of game. Potato Stuffing. — Mashed potatoes ; season with cream or rich milk, butter, cayenne pepper and salt. Add 1 cupful of bread crumbs. Use for any fowl. Apple-sauce tor Meats. — Slice tart -apples, first paring. Stew half an hour, adding a little water. Throw in butter in proportion of 1 small teaspoonful to 1 quart of sauce. Beat fine. Use no sugar. Serve, especially with roast goose, or duck. Gtoose Stuffed with Sauerkraut. — Stuff a dressed goose with sauerkraut. Sew it up, tie into shape, and place it in a large kettle, cover it with about 2 quarts of sauerkraut. Cover the whole with boiling water and simmer gently for 3 hours. At the end of this time take out the goose, lay it in a baking-pan, baste it with melted butter, dredge the breast with flour, put it in a quick oven until a nice brown (about an hour). Serve in a bed of the boiled sauerkra^it. Deviled Goose. — ^Take the joints of cold goose, and brown either on a broiler, or in a hot frying-pan. Make the following sauce : COOK— 10 146 POULTRY. Saiice. One tablespoonful each of made mustard, 1 of any kind of catsup, 1 of pepper-sauce, 1 of currant jelly and 1 of lemon-juice. Take up the meat on a warm dish and pour the sauce over it. Or use the ^following : Sauce II. Put in the pan where the goose was heated, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 tea- spoonful mustard, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful catsup. Let boil up once and pour over the goose. This is also nice for ham, in which case use the ham gravy instead of butter. Force-meat Balls. — The stuffing left from; roast chicken or turkey can be mixed with minced beef, mutton or veal, shaped into roiind cakes or patties, and browned in a hot frying-pan with a little butter. Ducks. The flavor of all ducks is improved by putting a few tablespoonfuls of minced celeiy and onion in the bodies before they are cooked. Parboiling a duck removes some of the oily flavor. Boast Duck. — Draw and singe a pair of young, fat ducks; wipe inside and outside with a damp towel. Make a stuffing of 2 cupfuls of stale bread crumbs, a minced boiled onion, a teaspoonful of pow- dered sage, and a tablespoonful of butter, seasoned with salt and pepper. Mix well, and fill the bodies of the ducks. Place in a baking pan, la.y thin slices of fat bacon or salt pork over the breasts, pour a teacupful of boiling water in the bottom of the pan, and set in a quick oven for an hour and a quarter. Baste often. Serve with onion sauce and apple jelly, or with currant jelly, or a puree of apples. If giblet gravy is wanted, boil the giblets tender, pour off the fat from the pan gravy, thicken- with 1 tablespoonful of browned flour; add the chopped giblets, and salt and pepper to taste. Parboiling before roasting will remove the strong taste of ducks. Apple dressing, as for a goose can be used. Also, potato stuffing (see directions). Sauce for Ducks or 6ame.^-A delicious sauce for eating with ducks may be made by beating a generous teaspoonful of dry mustard into a tumbler of currant jelly. Onion Sauce. — Peel 4 or 5 small onions ; put them in a saucepan with boiling water enough to cover ; add a tablespoonful of salt ; let boil half an hour; drain and press through a fine sieve ;_melt a table- spoonful of butter ; add a tablespoonful of flour ; mix Until smooth, with half a pint of boiling water. POULTRY. 147 Onion Dressing. — Peel 4 IJlrge onions, put into boiling water, let simmer five or ten minutes, and just before they are taken out, put in 10 sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rawness, skim them out and chop very fine ; ad^ one-fourth pound bread crumbs, seasoning, and 2 tablespoonfuls butter ; work the whole together with yolk of an egg. It should be rather highly seasoned, and many use the onions raw. This is nice for either goose or pork. If for goose simmer the liver a few minutes, chop fine, and add to dressing. Boned Ducks. — Ducks can be boned and filled in the same manner as turkey or chicken. A chopped onion, however, must be added to the other ingredients. When boiled ducks are used for force-meat, the effect will not be as good, for the meat is entirely dark. This may be in a measure obviated by the use of stock jellies. Chop a cupful of this, and spread over the force-meat just before tying up. This will give a mottled appearance to the filling. Boned ducks may be served whole, decorated with stock jelly cut in various forms, or sliced, by placing a square of jelly on each piece. Greens for the edge of the platter. Boiled Duck. — Prepare like boiled turkey. " This is a very nice dish, and is preferred by many to roast duck, as a more delicate dish. The broth can be kept until next day, skimmed, and a very nice soup made. Fricasseed Duck. — Prepare and cut the same as chicken for fricassee. Lay two or three slices of salt pork on the bottom of the stew pan. Put in the duck, with just enough cold water to cover. Stew slowly one hour, keeping the pan covered. Season with salt and pepper ; add one-half teaspoonful powdered sage, or some green sage minced fine ; 1 chopped onion ; stew another half hour, or until the duck is tender, adding boiling water if needed. Stir up 1 table- spoonful of browned flour in a little cold water, and add to the stew. Let boil up, and serve together in one large dish. Green peas are a nice accompaniment. DucliB with Turnips. — Prepare a couple of young ducks same as for roasting. Put in a stew pan lined with slices of bacon ; cover the breast with slices of bacon; add an onion, sliced; a carrot, cut in pieces; a bunch of sweet herbs, or simply a little parsley; pepper and salt to taste. Cover these with broth or stock, or even water, adding the juice of 1 lemon. Place the pan over a gentle fire and let 148 POULTRY. simmer until the ducks are done, frequently basting them. When done, remove from the pan, placing where they will keep hot. Take 6 peeled turnips, cut into small dice, and cook until tender, but not broken, in the liquor in which the ducks were cooked, adding boiling water, if necessary. Take up, arrange on a platter, lay the ducks on top, and serve. Strain and thicken the gravy, and send in with it. The gravy can be omitted if not liked. Sour Duck (German). — Dress the duck nicely. Soak 24 hours in vinegar. Take 1 tablespoonful butter, put in a pan and brown. Stuff the duck, put it in the pan, dredge ffeely with flour, baste often with the butter, salt to taste. Sour Sauce for Boast Duck. — One tablespoonful butter, 1 table- spoonful flour, 1 onion sliced, cook both jn the butter till brown, half teacup vinegar, 2 bay leaves, 1 teacupful cream or milk, salt anji pep- per. Flavor with a bit of lemon-peel. Let boil up. in the pan. Heat the milk to boiling-point, separately, and pour in at the very last. This prevents curdling badly. Flavor with a bit of lemon-peel, which can be taken out when served. Have boiling hot, and send in with the duck. DevUed Duck. — ^A dish that is used a great deal at stag suppers, and generally liked, is deviled duck. To prepare it boil or roast a duck and let it become cool. Remove the skin and bones and cut the meat into moderate-sized pieces. Boil the livers and mash to a paste and put in a sauce-pan with 1 tablespoonful pf dry mustard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne pepper and the juice of 1 lemon. Mix thoroughly, add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter and one-fourth cupful water. . In this mixture put 1^ pints of the cold duck. Place the saucepan over the fire and stir until the mixture is smoking hot. Turn on a hot dish and garnish with sliced lemon and sprigs of pars- ley. Send to the table as soon as possible. Serve with the duck with thin pieces of buttered toast and olives. Left-overs of duck may be deviled same as Deviled Goose. As regards the age of a bird, the experienced housekeeper can tell at once by its plumage and appearance, the feathers, etc., varying with age to a con- siderable extent ; but for the ignorant, the JJjJJ! safest test is to lift the bird by the lower '"beak, > which, when they are young, will snap off short ; to which may be added the general principle that with all young birds the legs are smooth and the quill feathers soft. - When in condition, the breast of a bird will feel hard and firm, and well covered with flesh. As a general rule, the hen birds are the tenderest and the juiciest. Another point to re- member when preparing game for cooking is that when cleaning them ' they should never be washed inside, but merely well wiped with a clean cloth. When the game is in such a state as to require washing to make it fit for the table, it is not fit for use. Woodcock, snipe, golden plover and landrail are not drawn, the tail being reckoned a delicacy. Such birds, moreover, should be trussed with their heads left on, the same rule also being applied in many houses to the blackcock. It should be added, however, that golden plover is occasionally drawn ; but this is more a concession to private feeling than a deviation from a general rule. For birds which are served undrawn, the crouton is a necessityr and should be placed under the bird while cooking, to receive the gravy, etc., that exudes from the bird in the process. Sometimes hot buttered toast is used instead of the fried bread for this purpose, but many persons object to. this on account of its extreme richness. Gama of-all kinds requires careful cooking, for, though it should, with few exceptions, never be underdone, it is ruined if overdone, as it dries, and consequently toughens very quickly. Wild duck, teal and pidgeon are the exceptions, and should be distinctly underdone rather than overdone. Whenever possible, game should be roasted at an open fire ; but where an oven is inevitable the birds shouW always jje placed in the double roasting pan, with water bet^reen the 149, t50 GAME. two pans, and extra care should be bestowed on the basting — & point frequently forgotten by cooks. Most game is improved, especially if cooked in the oven, by having a slice of fat bacon, cut in rows of diagonal slits, skewered over the breast, and, in the case of quail, or- tolans and other small birds, clever cooks and a vine-leaf to improve the flavor. Young pigeons have light-red flesh on the l^reastfand full, fresh- colored legs. When the legs are thin and the breast dark the birds are old. Fine game birds are always heavy for their size. A few feathei-s plucked from the inside of the legs, the flesh of freshly-killed birds, will be fat and fresh colored. If dark and discolored the bird has been hung a long time. The wings of good geese, ducks, pheas- ants and woodcock are tender to the touch ; the tips of the long wing feathers of partridges in young birds are round in old ones. Quail, snipe and small birds should have full tender breasts. Game should be kepit no longer than beef or fowl. Both of these are better for being kept a short time. Only pronounced epicures insist upon the condition termed " high." If a bird or meat is to be dredged with flour, salt should be put on before it is cooked, but the rest of the seasoning is not to be added until it is taken from the fire. How to Cook Game. — As ;a rule, all dark fleshed birds, like duck and grouse, should be cooked about as rare as roast beef, so that the blood runs from the knife. Birds with white flesh, like part- ridge, should be as well done as a barnyard fowl. A simple rule for time, allows eighteen or twenty minutes roasting for either canvasback or redhead duck, fifteen minutes for teal, eighteen or twenty minutes for grouse, twelve or fifteen minutes for doe birds, ten minutes for either plover or woodcock, and eight or ten minutes for English snipe. Tender, plump quail require from fifteen to eighteen minutes, and the average plump partridge from thirty-five to forty minutes. This implies the briskest heat the oven can give. To Serve with Game. — Currant or plum jelly, or spiced plums should be served with all kinds of feathered game, except turkey, which, like its civilized cousin, takes kindly to cranberry jelly. Celery is always in order with any kind of game, and a celery sauce is pre- ferred to a bread sauce by many. Bread Sauce for Game. — Boil up half a pint of milk with a small shallot stuck with a clove, and directly it comes to the boil, stir GAME. 151 in 1 ouncfe of fresh butter, and one half ounce of fresh white bread crumbs, previously rubbed through a wire sieve, and let it all boil together for fifteen-minutes. Add a couple of spoonfuls of good cream or new milk, boil it once more for five minutes, season to taste with a very little salt and white pepper ; lift out the shallot and clove, and serve in a hot tureen. \ Dressing for Broiled Game. — Mix an ounce of butter with about a teaspoonful of dry mustard, salt, a dust of cayenne pepper and a few drops of vinegar, or, if preferred, lemon juice. Score the flesh pretty deeply, coat it thickly with the above mixture, and broil over a clear fire. Venison. Venison is one of the most easily digested meats. It may be cooked after the same rules as mutton or beef. It should be cooked rare, and served very hot, with currant jelly. The saddle or loin is the choicest cut for roasting or for steaks. Steaks are also cut from the leg. Venison may be roasted, broiled, stewed, etc., the same as beef. The trimmings ' should be boiled, to make a stock for the sauce. Haunch or Saddle of Venison. (English.) — Rub the surface with butter to soften it. (It should have hung about one week in a cool place). Cover it first with a large sheet of buttered paper, and over that place a covering of flour and water paste about one half inch thick, the whole covered with another greased paper fastened securely. Fifteen minutes to the pound is the rule followed where it is preferred rare. More time is required, according to the size, to have it well done. Pour a pint of boiling water around the meat and cover with another dripping-pan. The oven should be hot. After the first hour, baste thoroughly at short intervals, re-covering the pan after each time. Half an hour before dinner uncover the pan, remove the papers and paste, return to the oven, and baste with melted butter (and a littk lemon juice; dredge flour over the whole and let it brown. Repeat the basting with butter two or three times during the half- hour, and take up on a heated dish. The plates should be heated also, as venison cools easily. Serve with currant jelly and the jelly sauce given before. A brown gravy can be made in the pan, and sent up with it, or poured under the joint on the platter. The bone can be decorated with cut paper if liked. 152 GAME. Larded Haunch of Venison.'— A saddle of venison is the best for roasting. Lard the venison with strips of firm, fat pork, and sprinkle over the whole salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Roast in a very hot oven, bastirig often, and it adds greatly to the flavor to use some claret in basting. Venison should be served rare and very hot. Some cooks refuse to use salt pork with venison, claiming that it injures the flavor, but where the meat is dry it is an improvement. liCgr of Venison. — A leg ^f venison that weighs 10 pounds wil! require 1^ hours to roast. In this case it should be larded on one side, then be well seasoned with salt and pepper, covered with soft butter, placed on a rack in a pan and set in a very hot oven. No water should be put in the pan for the first 10 minutes, but when that time has passed there should be just enough to cover the bottom of the pan, and the venison should be basted with this and with salt, pepper and flour every 15 minutes. Some people prefer claret to the gravy in the pan for basting. The last basting should be with soft butter and a dredging of flour, that the surface of the meat may have a light, frothy appearance. The oven should be very hot the first half hour ; after that reduce the heat Babbits. Babbit, Roasted. — Skin, clean, and let lie in some water for half an hour. Mince a slice of salt pork and mix with sufficient moist- ened bread crumbs to fill the cavity, seasoning with salt, pepper and sweet marjoram ; add a little minced onion if liked. Stuff the rabbit and sew up. Cover with thin slices of salt pork, either bound on with cords, or fastened with wooden toothpicks. Pour a cup of water in the pan and bake 1 hour, basting frequently, adding a little lemon juice or vinegar to .the drippings. Dredge with flour; brown and re- move from the oven. Serve on a hot platter, removing the slices of pork and garnishing the edge of the platter with them. Thicken the strained gravy with browned flour and season with butter, 2 table- spoonfuls of lemon juice or a little vinegar, pepper and salt to taste. Let it boil up, then serve. If pork is not used in roasting, rub the rabbit with butter well before putting in the oven, and pour melted butter over it when served, garnishing with sliced lemons and parsley. Broiled Babbits. — Skin, clean, and disjoint the rabbit, wipe dry> wrap in buttered letter paper, place in a double wire broiler and broil GAME. 153 over a clear, brisk fire, turning often. Serve very hot, removing the papers. Some cooks let the joints of rabbit lie 2 or 3 hours in a mix- ture consisting of a little salad oil, 2 or 3 sprays of parsley, a sliced onion, a clove or two, a bay leaf, 2 or 3 peppercorns and a little salt. Turn occasionally, then drain, but do not dry the pieces ; wrap each in a thin rasher of bacon, and then into pieces of buttered paper, with a little of the seasoning ; broil them over a clear, slow fire, and serve very hot in the papers. Babbit, Fried. — Skin, disjoint and wipe the rabbit perfectly dry. Fry the same as chicken, parboiling anless perfectly tender. They may be dipped in flour before frying. Babbit Pie. — Make the same as Chicken Pie, or Game Pie. Par- boil the rabbit if not tender. Four hard-boiled eggs cut in slices and scattered through the pie are an improvement. Bake an hour and cover the top with paper should it brown too fast Babbit Stew. — Prepare the same as venison and serve the same. Add minced onion to the gravy, if liked, and if necessary a little butter. Babbits with Onions- — After the rabbit is cleaned, truss it, and put on to boil in cold water enough to cover it. Simmer until tender, take out and fry in boiling lard until a light brown. Keep it warm, whild'you fry six onions, sliced. When they are fried a nice brown, pour a little boHing water in the frying pan and stir in a tablespoonful of browned flour, wet with cold water. Season with pepper and salt ; pour over the rabbit and serve. After the rabbit is boiled tender it may be served with a drawn butter sauce that has had S boiled onions put in it. The onions must first be boiled perfectly tender. Pour this sauce over the rabbit and serve. Panned. Babbit. — Singe and wipe a young rabbit carefully, cut into convenient pieces, place neatly in a baking pan, sprinkle over it a tablespoonful of chopped onions, same of chopped parsley and same 0^ celery ; melt a tablespoonful of butter, add to it a half cup offwater or stock, and a half teaspox)nful ©f pepper ; pour this over the rabbit, cover with another pan and bake in a moderate oven for 35 or 40 minutes; dust with salt and it is ready to serve. An ordinary brown gravy made in the pan may be sent up with it. Young rabbits have very tender meat and when properly cooked are almost as great a delicacy as chicken. In England they are found in every market an4 are a constant article of fbod, being raised especially for this purpose. 154 GAME. Hare. Boast Hare. — Hare and rabbit are very much alike, the chief dif- ference being in the smaller size and shorter legs and ears of the rabbit. For roasting hare proceed in precisely the same manner as for rabbit (see directions). Serve with currant jelly. Larded Hare. — Bone a harcy lay it flat on a board and season with pepper, spices, and chopped parsley, spread a dressing over it (see Roast Rabbit). Roll tightly, cover with slices of bacon tied on. Put the bones into a stewpan with 2 bay leaves, a sliced onion, some parsley, and, if liked, 2 blades of mace and half pint of water or stock. Cover the bones with fat bacon, put in the hare, set on a slow fire to simmer for 2 hours. Serve the hare cold, garnished with parsley. Jugged Hare. — ^Two rabbits, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoonful of salt, half teaspoohful of pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, 2 large tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 tablespoonfuls of flour, 3 cupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of any preferred catsup. Skin, clean, wash, disjoint, and roll in the flour. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when it gets hot put in the meat. Brown well on both sides^ being careful not to burn. When the meat has been well browned, put it into a stew-pan, and put into the frying-pan such flour as remained after the meat was rolled in. Stir until the mixture gets smooth ; then add the water, and cook for 10 minutes. Pour this liquid over the meat in the stew-pan. Add the spice, salt, pepper, and the onion, uncut. Cover closely and simmer for an hour and a half; then add lemon juice and catsup. Arrange the rabbit on a warm platter, and strain the sauce over it. Serve wi|fli a dish of boiled rice. Stewed Hare. — Cut in pieces, put in a saucepan, barely covering with soup stock or clear broth. Add to this 1 large onion, -chopped, a few blades of mace, 1 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce and the juice of half a lemon. Season with salt and pepper, cover closely and let stew 2 hours ; if necessary add a little more broth before removing from the fire. Arrange the meat in a soup tureen ; thicken the sauce with a teaspoonful of butter rolled in browned flour ; pour into the dish through a sieve. Squirrels. Squirrel Stew. — Squirrels are cooked very much as rabbits, and any good rule for preparing them will apply to squirrels. For this GAME. 155 one from the throat, and the other called the heart sweet- bread, the larger and dearer, if sold alone. We would again urge the importance of long, slow cooking. A joint of veal, with the slightest appear- ance of rawness, will prove unwholesome ; it should be of an uniform whiteness right through to the bone ; and, in order that the color Joints of Veal. ^j^y be preserved, veal should never be laid upon a dish before cooking for any length of time ; the very pressure causes, not only discoloration, but taint. This may be said to an extent of all meat, but especially emphasized in the case of veal. ^The best mutton, and that from which most nourishment is obtained, is that of sheep of from three to six years old, and which have been fed on dry sweet pastures. The flesh of sheep which have been reared on farms near the sea-costst is also sweet and wholesome; MEATS. 166 the saline particles abounding in such situations impart both firmness and a fine flavor. To suit the palate of an epicure, a sheep should never be killed earlier than its fifth year, at which age the mutton will be found firm and succulent, and full of the richest gravy. This is, however, not easily obtained at the present time. To ascertain the age of mutton the following directions may be given : — Observe the color of breast-bones when a sheep is dressed, that is, where the breast-bone is separated. In a lamb, or before the sheep is one year old, it will be quite red ; from one to two years old, the upper and lower bones will be changing to white, and a small circle of'white will appear round the edge of the other bones, and the middle part of the breast-bone will yet continue red ; at three years old, a very small streak of white will be seen in the middle of the four middle bones, and the others will be white ; and at four years old, all the breast-bones will be of a white or gristly color. Wether mutton is the best ; although it is often easier to buy ewe mutton of a mature age, it is inferior, and sells at a lower price. Ram mutton is to be avoided when very strong and coarse, and if the fat is of a deep yellow. Mutton should be fairly fat, and the fat should be firm. Butchers complain sometimes (and with reason) of the inconsistency of some customers in their demands for the best meat, without fat ! How can they possibly get it ? The small breeds will best suit such people, and it is worth every- one's while to give the preference to small mutton Joints of Mutton, generally — i. e. meat with small bones ; they usually indicate a good breed ; whereas, large bones are associated with coarseness of fibre and poorer flavor. The lean ought to be rich in color, and not give out much moisture ; flabbiness and clamminess always prove that the meat is inferior. Mutton is cut up as shown in the figure. 1. The leg ; 2. The loin ; 3. Best end of loin ; 4. Neck, best end ; 5. Neck, scrag end ; 6. Shoulder; 7. Breast. Besides these, there are the head and feet, 166 MEATS. heart, liver, and other internal organs, all treated under various headings. House liamb (by which is meant lamb born in the middle of winter, reared under shelter, and fed, in a great measure, upon milk) is considered a great delicacy. It may be obtained from Christmas to April 1st. Then grass lamb, or lamb brought up out of doors, and feed upon grass, comes into season. Like all young animals, lamb ought_ to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome. Lamb is usually cut into quarters, and of these the fore-quarter^ which cofisists of the shoulder (3)>* the breast (5), and the neck (4), is con- sidered by many the best. It should be cooked fresh, and its quality may be tested by the appearance of the vein of the neck, which should be. ruddy or of a bluish color. If green. Lamb Divided into Joints. jj jg not good. It is- generally roasted, though in very young lamb, the leg, which is frequently served by itself, and makes a useful and excellent joint, may be boiled and sent to the table with a suitable sauce. The hind-quarter, consist- ing of the leg (1) and loin (2), is better for hanging two or three days. As, however, lamb lyill not keep well in unfavorable weather, or for any length of tiriie, it should tje examined daily, and the moisture carefully wiped from the joints. Ifa order to ascertain whether or not it is fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney. Any taint may be easily discovered by the smell. The fat of lamb should be firm and light, the lean clear and also firm, especially the knuckle. If the fat be yellow, and lean flabby and red, the lamb is of inferior quality, and will not keep. Where economy is a consideration, lamb should not be bought before it is five months old. When lamb becomes large enough, the quarters are sub-divided into joints. The leg is the most profitable for a family, but the shoulder is very delicious in flavor. The loin makes a most excellent roast while the neck and breast may be cooked* in various ways, all of them appetizing. The head, sweetbread, and fry are much esteemedj, and furnish many dishes of a dainty kind. Pork. — ^This is firm, with clear, white skin. The lean, a pale red, and the fat purcTvhite.- Spare ribs and loin are best roasting MEATS. 167 pieces. Hams and shoulders are smoked. The less choice pieces pickled, and the remainder used for sausage, while the head and feet are utilized respectively as head cheese and souse. Never buy a ham because it^is cheap. Do not select too lean a joint. The fat of a ham is often considered so much waste weight ; so it may be in many famihes. But a well-fed and quickly fattened hog will furnish tender, juicy and fine-flavored meat. Bear this in mind, and be willing to lose a little extra fat for gain in the superior qualities. Let the joint be well- rounded and plump and see that the skin is thin and pliable. Choose freshly cured hams if pos-, sible. The size of a ham has much to do with the way in which it should be served. A whole ham will boil more satisfactorily than a part of it. For broiling or frying never use a ham of less than fourteen pounds, and one weighing fifteen or sixteen is better still for this purpose. Only the center of such a ham, however, should be sliced. Take off at least two inches from the large end of the ham in one cut. Then slice up the remainder as it is needed, until the upper joint in the bone is reached. This shank, with the other end first taken off, may be used to advantage. To judge the state of a ham, plunge a knife into it to the bone. If particles of meat adhere to it, or if the odor is bad, the ham is not good. A short, thick ham should be pre- ferred. I Joints of Pork. Pork, more than any meat, must be chosen with the greatest care. The pig, from its habits, is particularly liable to disease, and if killed and eaten in an unhealthy state> those who partake of it may pay dearly for the indulgence. Dairy-fed pork is best, and it is safest to buy it direct from a farm, or from a reliable dealer. Pork is in season only in cold weather, and should be, rigidly avoided in sum- mer ; it is then positively dangerous. The fat should be firm, and the lean delicate in color, and fine in the grain; the skin should be delicate. If the skin is thick, the pig was old ; if clammy, it proves ^v • • • f 1 168 MEATS. staleness. Kernels and discolorations in the fat prove an unhealthy condition at the time of billing. Pork cannot be kept long in the fresh state, but unless hung for a short time it will be hard. All the internal organs cannot be too fresh when eaten. We would specially warn the inexperienced against what is known in the trade as "offal-fed pork." It is, however, never seen in good localities, and no butcher with a reputation to maintain deals in it. It can be told by its dark color, strong smell, and unplea- sant flavor. No meat requires more care in cooking than pork: the least portion underdone is more than unwholesome, and it-should be withheld from persons of weak digestion, as well as invalids generally. A pig is thus divided: 1. Spare rib; 2. Hand; 3. Belly; 4. Fore loin ; 5. Hind loin ; 6. Leg. The chine is the neck whole, - Bacon. — In a pig of fair size, the chine, which is excellent for roasting or boiling, is cut from between the sides or flitches as shown in the diagram; but if the pig is small, the flitches should be divided down the chine. The shoulders may be left attached to the sides, or separated, ac- cording to the size of the pig. The legs are made into hams. Diagram of Bacon Pig. ^nd the sides form what is bacon proper. The head maybe served in various ways. If divided, the halves are called cheeks ; or, if again cut through, the top part is termed eye-piece, and the lower one chap, or chawl. These are - generally salted and boiled. The inner fat is made into lard. The trimmings are converted into Sausages, Pies, etc. A. Shows the chine ; b. The head ; c. The leg ; d. The flitch ; e. The shoulder. Tenison. — ^Venison, like mutton, is better when of mature age. It must be kept until in the right state for table, and much care is needed to cook it properly^ but when propferly dressed, and served very hot, with plenty of good gravy, it is in every respect worthy of the high estimation in which it is held by epicures. There are three kinds of venison. Of these the fallow deer is much the best. Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer thap doe venison, which is in season from ' October to December. Neither should be dressed at any other time MEATS. 169 of the year. The haunch is the prime joint, though the neck and shoulder are much approved, and may be dressed in various ways. As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an airy plac«. Dry ginger and pepper should be dusted over it to keep off the flies. '- It should be examined and care- fully wiped every day, or twice a day in unfavorable weather, and it should be kept as long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. Excepting in very mild weather, it will keep a fort- night with care. In order to ascer- tain its condition, run a skewer close to the bone, and from this judge of the sweetness of the venison. If it should inadvertently become musty, first Venison, wash it with lukewarm water, and afterwards with tepid milk and water, then dry it very thoroughly. The lean of venison should be dark and fine in the grain; the fat, of which there should be a good supply, ought to be firm, white and clear. To ascertain the age, the cleft of the hoof, which is always left on, must be examined. If very smooth and small, the animal is young. If rough and large, it proves age. Venison is cut up as shown in figure: \. shoulder; 2. fore- loin ; 3. haunch or loin ; 4. breast ; 6. scrog ^r neok. EQnts on Cooking' Mesifts. — When cutting meat to cook, always cut across the grain of the muscle. Never wash fresh meat before roasting ; scrape it, if necessary to clean it, then wipe with a cloth damped with vinegar. If the meat is in any way discolored, cut that part away and wash afterwards with vinegar. Never put meat directly on the ice; put it in a vessel on the ice; water draws out the juices. If you baste roast meats, do not use salt in the basting ; salt the meat when removed from the oven. • Salt and season boiling meats while cooking. Never salt and pepper broiling meats while cooking. Sea- son with salt, pepper, and butter after removing from the gridiron. An ordinary pan is good for broiling ; heat very hot ; use no fat of any kind; put the meat flat on the pan, turn rapidly and often, and you will find a " pan broil " very good j season when done. 170 MEATS. How to Use Glace. — Glace is merely very strong gravy boiled down until it is of the consistency of liquid jelly ; when it is of this thickness pour it from the sauce-pan at once or it will burn ; when it is required for use stand the jar in which it is kept in a pan of boiling water, and melt it gently; to glace cutlets or meats, lay it on with a brush until it forms a varnish. To broil meat well the gridiron must be hot beforethe meat is put on, the meat should be turned rapidly in order to produce an equal effect, but the meat should not be punctured with a fork. If it is necessary to use a fork, insert it iA the fat. In this way less of the juice of the meat escapes. In boiling meat it is important to keep the water constantly boiling, otherwise the meat will absorb the water; add boiling water when needed ; remove the scum when it begins to boil ; allow 20 minutes for boiling for each pound of meat (fresh)* The more gently meat boils the more tender it will be. Salt meat should be put into cold water and boiled slowly ; a red pepper dropped into the water will prevent the rising of an unpleasant odor. ' Fresh meat, unless for soup, should be put into boiling water and be allowed to cook very gently ; no salt to be added until nearly done. Boasts. — In roasting, put into a hot oven and baste frequently, In roasting beef it is necessary to have a brisk fire; baste often; 12 minutes is required for every pound of beef; season when nearly done. The orthodox rule for the cooking of meat, fish or fowl, is to allow a quarter of an hour to every pound; yet this recipe needs to be mixed with" brains. Some families like rare, others well-done meats. If the oven is hot, 20 minutes for each pound will usually insure a well-done roast. The oven should be hottest when tlie meat is first put in, that the surface may be quickly seared and the pores of the meat sealed, thereby confining the natural juices. An oven that is too hot to hold the hand in for even a moment is right to receive the meat. It is well to put the roast in a dry pan, and place under it a few pieces of suet. Omit the water that is so often used, as this has a tendency to soften the outside of the meat, by generating steam and preventing crispness. Baste frequently with its own drippings which flow from the meal when partly cooked. "\ Full-grown and mature meats, such as beef and mutton, are best with the red gravy oozing from them ; while immature, or white meats, such as Iamb, veal, pork, etc., are absolutely dangerous unless MEATS. 171 done through to the bone. A good rule is to aI!ow 15 to 20 minutes, according to the taste of the family, for the cooking of every pound of beef and mutton ; 18 to 20 minutes for the cooking of every pound of pork, veal, lamb, ham, fish, and every kind of fowl. If there be doubt, run the blade of a knife into the bone, and the meat carefully lifted and examined. This will be found an infallible test. It is quite right that next to the bone beef and mutton should be red and' juicy, but if the beef be blue or the mutton has that strange, raw look pecu- liar to mutton that has just felt the heat of the fire, the joint needs a little more cooking. White meats should be white, even to the bone, with the exception, perhaps, of lamb, which many people prefer with a little pinky juice oozing through. Lamb, veal and. pork should be cooked slower than beef, with a more moderate fire. Broiling. — The rules for roasting meat apply to broiling, except that instead of cooking it in the oven it is to be quickly browned first on one side and then on the other, over a hot fire, and removed a little from the fire to finish cooking. Meat an inch thick will broil in about 20 minutes. A beefsteak cut an inch thick will be cooked rare in 10 minutes. A mutton chop cut three-fourths of an inch thick win cook in 8 minutes. Veal and pork must be broiled slowly and for a long time. There should not be a trace of pink in the fibers when the meat is done. The chops should not be cut more than half an inch thick. They will be well done with 12 minutes' cooking. The rule for finding out whether they are sufficiently cooked by ex- amining the meat next the bone holds good for them also. Salt Meats. — Salt meats are not so easily tested as fresh meats, yet even Jiere look at the bone. Beware of allowing the meat to cook so long that it raises itself from the bones, as it were; for then it is-what is graphically known as being " done to rags. " In boiling, salt meats should be covered with cold water and require 30 minutes slow boiling to each pound, counting from the time the water begins to boil. If the meat is very salt, pour off the first water and put in another of boiling water, or soak over night in cold water. After meat begins to boil it should not cease for a moment, and should be rei^nished from a boiling teakettle. Tough Meat is made tender by adding a little vinegar to the water in which it is boiled. Tough steak may have a little vinegar poured over it and be allowed to stand a short time. Wipe dry and 172 MEATS. cook. The improvement is marked. Steak may also be rubbed with baking-soda the night before, washed off next niorning, wiped dry and cooked as desired. It will be much inore tender. Fowls and legs of mutton may be treated in the same way. A small lump of baking-soda droppfed Steak Hammer. in with boiling meat or fowl will assist in making it more tender. The soda or vinegar will also remove any slight taint about the meat. Tainted Mfeat maybe freshened by sprinkling charcoal over it, or boiling it with a lump of charcoal in the water. Game and dressed fowls can be sweetened b/ lumps of charcoal placed in the interior. Beef. Boast Beef. — ^Trim the meat, wipe it with a damp cjoth ; never wash it; put it on a beef-steak griddle over hot coals until it is seared all over ; then put it in the oven to finish. !^or a 3-pound roast 30 minutes should be long enough; much depends upon the shape of meat and the heat of the oven ; never baste meat or /owls with any- thing but clear fat-drippings or butter; never put a. fork into any meat or fowl of any kind until carving; the juice follows the fork, as you take it out ; the meat loses its flavor and richness ; for turning . meat use cleaii cloths, or wooden paddles ; seasoa with salt and pep- per. Lay a few bits of suet in the pan and rest the m^at on them. Dredge once or twice with flour. When done take park out of the oven, place meat on a dish, pour hot water in the pan, about 1 cup- ful, have some flour dissolved in cold water, pour into the pan, allow to boil a few minutes, take up and strain. Browned flour makes the gravy more palatable in appearance. Boast Beef witb. Yorkshire Pudding. — ^A piece of from 7 to 10 pounds can be used most advantageously for a family of six. HaTje a trivet or stand fitting the roasting-pan, and put the meat on it in a very hot oven, with a cupful of boiling water, that the outside may sear over at once, and thus retain the juices. Dredge with flour after the first fifteen minutes and sprinkle on a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Baste often, with the drippings in the pan, and dredge at least once more with flour, shaking it lightly MEATS. 178 from a flour-shaker. Three-quarters of an hour before the beef is done make the pudding as below. If no stand is handy, lift the meat upon 3 or 4 muffin rings. Yorkshire Pudding. — One egg, 1 cupful milk, salt, a half tea- spoonful baking-powder, flour enough to make a thin batter. Half an hour before the roast is done pour this into the pan beneath the roast. If the pudding is to be baked separately from the roast, which is sometimes more convenient, have a dish hot and put in two or three spoonfuls of the dripping from the pan into the dish; pour the pud- ding in and bake about 10 miniites in a quick oven: pouring a spoon- ful or two of gravy over it while cooking improves it. Cut it in squares and serve on the platter with the roast. If water is used in- stead of milk in the pudding, add a tablespopnful of shortening. Fillet of Beef. — (This is the tenderloin, although the surloin is sometimas used.) Trim off fat, tough skin, etc., and skewer into shape (round). Lard with salt pork or cover with strips of pork, salt. Dredge well with salt, pepper and flour and put without water into a small pan. Place in a hot oven 30 minutes ; in lower part 10, and then on upper grate. Serve with mushroom sauce or with potato balls. The shape of the fillet is such that the time required for cook- ing is the same, whether it weigh 2 or 6 pounds. After the first half hour pour a cupful of water in the pan. Baste freq>*ehtly. Garnish with jelly. Bib Boast, Stuffed. — Have the bones removed from the roast, flatten the meat and season well. Make a rich turkey dressing moistened with egg. Tour the dressing into frying-pan, with a little melted butter, and stir until it thickens. Spread over the meat. Roll, tie and bake. A delicious dish. Nice cold. Press and slice fo« lunch or tea. Boston Boast. — Buy what is called a Boston roast or chuck roast. Cut from the shoulder or the round steak. Heat a frying-pan smoking hot, put in the roast, and brown or sear it on all sides ; this closes the pores and retains the juices. When browned, season with, salt and pepper ; bake in a hot oven one hour. Broiled Steak. — Porter-house and sirloin steaks are the only ones that can be thoroughly recommended for broiling, and to broil either of them properly requires a double broiler and a good clear fire. Cut the steak about three-fourths of an inch thick and trim it free from fab lU MEATS. If it is a porter-house, remove the tough end and convert it into Ham< burg steaks for luncheon or tea. Heat the broiler and rub lightly with good butter. Put the steak in the broiler and cook over a clear fire, turning about once in 10 or 12 minutes. Remove the steak to a hot platter, season with salt and pepper, and rub 1 teaspoonful of butter over each side. Garnish with water-cress and serve im- mediately. If the fire is not Family Meat Saw. clear, sprinkle a handful of charcoal over the coals. A teaspoonful of melted butter mixed with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice and sprinkled over the broil- ing steak will give a fine flavor. Turn the steak by a fork putthrough the fat on the edge, not through the lean. If a double broiler is used there is no necessity for a fork. Beefsteak with Oyster Sauce. — Fry a juicy steak. Pour sufficient water into the pan for gravy. Thicken ■with browned flour ; add butter if necessary, and season. Add a portion of oyster liquor to the above brown gravy, making a delicious oyster sauce. Pour this over ihe steak. Garnish with sliced lemon and then serve with baked potatoes. Stewed Steak with Oysters. — 2 pounds of rump-steak, 1 pint of oysters, 3 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 tablespoonful lemon-juice, 3 table- spoonfuls butter, 1 cupful flour. Salt and pepper to taste. Turn the cup of water over the oysters and drain off into a stew-pan^ Put this liquor on to heat. When it boils skini and set back. Put the butter in a frying-pan, and when hot put in the steak. Cook 10 minutes, take up and stir the flour intd the butter remaining in the pan. Stir until brown, add the oyster liquor, and boil a minute. Season with salt and pepper. Put back the steak, cover the pan, and simmer half an hour, or until the steak seems tender. Then add the oysters and lemon-juice. Boil 1 minutfe. Serve on a hot dish. Braised Beefsteak. — Two pounds of the tough part of the round, 1 onion, 1 clove, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful corn- starch. Dredge the meat well with salt, pepper and flour. Cut the onion Mo thin slices, which put in a small sauce-pan or baking-pan; MEATS. 175 and upon them lay the meat, covering closely. Place in rather cool oven and cook one-half hour ; then add boiling water and the clove. Cover and return to oven. Cook very slowly for 2}4 hours, basting with gravy in the pan and dredging with salt, pepper, and flour 6 times while cooking. Take up the meat, mix corn-starch with a little cold water and stir into the gravy. Cook on top of stove 4 minutes.' Strain over meat and serve. Spanish Steak. — ^Take round or flank steak ; put in dripping-pan ; slice enough onions to cover and partly cook them in a little water ; drain, and spread onions on steak, spread one-half can tomatoes on top of onions, season well with pepper and salt, then sprinkle over all a thin layer of grated cheese. Put in oven and bake half an hour. ' Beefsteak witk Mushroom Sauce. — Broil a steak, put on a hot platter, and serve with the following sauce poured over it. Sauce : Put 1 pint of peeled mushrooms into a small sauce-pan with a few slices of fat bacon, or a lump of butter ; brown until they stick to the pan, but be careful not to scorch. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour. Add a pint of broth or soup stock. Let simmer a few minutes. Add a little lemon-juice, if liked. Pour over the hot steak and serve at once. Beefsteak a la Maltre d'Hotel. — Broil a sirloin or porterhouse steak. Serve on a hot platter with a piece of Maitre d'Hotel butter melting upon it. Maitre d'Hotel Butter. — Fresh butter worked up with chopped scalded parsley, lemon-j uice, and pepper and Salt. Serve the steak with a little of this under it on the hot platter, and a piece on the top where it will melt. Garnish the platter with potato balls or puffs. Hamburg Steak. — Have 1 pound of round, or flank steak chopped fine. Chop with it 1 medium-sized onion. Pepper and salt to taste; make in cakes and fry in a hot pan. If the meat is juicy, no fat wilfbe needed, otherwise use a little suet or butter. Fry quickly and serve; pour over it the juice of the meat. Good hot or cold. Beefsteak Pie (French Style.)— Take a nice piece of beefsteak, rump or sirloin, cut in small pieces, slice also a little raw ham; put both in a frying-pan, with some butter and small quantity chopped onions ; let them simmer together a short time on the fire or in the oven; add a little flour and enough stock to make sauce; salt, pep- per, chopped parsley and a little Worcestershire sauce as seasoning; add also a few sliced potatoes, and cook together for about 20 min- 176 MEATS. utes ; put this into a pie-dish, with a few slices of hard-boiled eggs on the top, and cover with a layer of common paste. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes in a well heated oven. All dark meat pies can be treated precisely the same way. If poultry, leave the potatoes out. Water may be used if soup stock is not handy, in which case add bits of butter or finely minced suet. / Beefsteak Pudding. — Make a plain crust, or a suet crust, of flour, finely chopped suet and water. Line a pudding dish or basin with this'. Cut up a couple pounds of rump or flank steak in bits ; half pound of beef kidney is an improvement, cut up also. Fill the basin in layers seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, and if liked, a little chopped onion; a very little- chopped bacon is an addition. Cover with a layer of crust, and put the basin in a steamer and steam 1 or 2 hours according to size. When served open the t(ip a little and put in small lump of butter. , Stewed Beef, or Other Meats. — Stewed meat properly prepared is delicious. To begin by putting the meat on to cook in cold water and thickening it afterward will never make a good stew. It should be commenced in gravy or stock, and butter or suet should always be used for this rather than lard. Melt a small piece of butter and gradually sti;r in a little flour until it is thoroughly combined; now add hot water gradually, stirring all the time until a smooth,- even consistency is reached. Then put in the meat to be stewed. If vege- tables are to be used, add in time for them to be done when the meat is thoroughly cooked, afterward add the condiments and flavoring as required. Keep the vessel well closed, opening the lid only when absolutely necessary and shake the stew now and then,' in preference to stirring it with a spoon. Another form of stew is made by putting butter or fat in a sauce- pan, heating it thoroughly and putting pieces of meat in to brown the outside with the hot fat. Then add hot water and thicken slightly. The stew may be either white or brown according to the way the fat Is prepared. For white stews butter only should be used and melted only just enough to retain a light color before adding flour and the water. For brown stews butter or suet or drippings maybe used and be allowed to get a deep color before adding the water. Stuffed Flank. — The flank is the cheapest part of a bee^ hut if - neatly trimmed, spread with a dressing made from bread crumtos, • MEATS. 177 bit of butter, minced onion, or sweet herbs, salt, pepper, and enough hot water to moisten, rolled up tightly, closely corded and roasted, it makes a palatable dinner dish. There may be served with it a ^ gravy, made by adding a cup of hot, water to the drippings in the pan. When it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful of flour, which has been smoothed in a little cold water, add to it salt, pepper, and a scant teaspoonful of sugar. Stir thoroughly,"!© secure the richness that may have browned to the pan, cook perhaps 5 minutes and serve. Boiled Flank. — ^A piece of the flank may be rolled and corded without the addition of the dressing, covered with boiling water, and cooked until tender. When cold it is nice to slice and serve for tea. It will be in pink and white rounds, somewhat resembling a jelly roll. Cape Cod Stew. — Take fresh beef flank and cut in pieces 4 or 5 inches square ; put on to cook in a little water with salt and 1 good- sized onion ; be careful not to burn ; cook 3 or 4 hours ; then cut a turnip in slices and lay on top, and parsnips whole if you like them; allow about 1 hour for them ; after cooking half an hour, cut potatoes once and put in, and after cooking 10 minutes put dumplings on top, made of 1 pint of flour, salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of yeast-powder ; mix soft with cold water ; cook 20 minutes ; take up on separate dishes, and thicken the gravy with a little flour or corn-starch ; serve in a gravy-boat. This is first-class and inexpensive. Yirginia Spiced Beef. — ^Virginia has retained many of the old English dishes she brought with her, and her spiced beef is the lineal descendant of the mighty round of which Sir Walter Scott loves to tell, the rule given being one that is guaranteed to have been the authority in one family since the days of burly King Harry VIII. For 16 pounds of the thick flank or rump of beef allow half a pound of brown sugar, 1 ounce of saltpetre, quarter of a pound of allspice pounded, and 1 pound of common salt. Rub the sugar well into the beef, and let it lie for 12 hours ; then rub in both saltpetre and allspice, .and let it stand another 12 hours, and last, rub in the salt. Leave it fn the liquor which forms for a fortnight, turning it daily. Soak 1 hour in water, dry and cover with a paste made of flour and water fiiick enough to hold well. Bake in a steady oven for 5 hours. At the end of this time remove the paste and serve either hot or cold, though such a round is usually eaten cold, cut in very thin slices the whole face of the round. A favorite dish-with hunters. Still another COOK— 12 178 MEATS. method is to sew the round in a cloth, put in boiling water, Md boil for 4 hours ; then take off the cloth, and put the round under a heavy weight until cold. Either way is excellent, and the round will keep easily for a week. Beef a la Mode. — Take a piece of the rump and into deep incis- ions made therein put little thin squares of pork that have been rolled in a mixed seasoning of pepper, salt and spices, such as a little cloves and grated nutmeg. Put in a stewpan containing sliced onions, carrots", lemon, a bay-leaf and pieces of pork, lay the meat, putting over it a piece of bread crust; Family Cleaver. over all pour a little vinegar, and enough water to about half cover the meat. Cook until the meat becomes tender, being careful to keep the dish tightly covered. If a larding- needle is handy use that to draw long strips of pork through the beef instead of the thin slices. Very nice hot or cold. Curried Beef or Mutton. — Cut 1 pound of tender beef into pieces abou^ 3 inches by 2 inches and fry them for a few minutes Tvith 2 sliced onions in sufficient butter. Tut the meat and onions into a saucepan with a wineglassful of vinegar and a little gravy or water with a dessertspoonful of curry-powder and stew very gently for 1 hour. Place it in a deep dish with an edging of dry-boiled rice and serve. Mashed potatoes can be used instead of rice. Harlequin of Beef. — Cover a piece of fresh beef with boiling water, cook until nearly done ; let cool in water it boils in ; make a dressing (as suits varied tastes) for chicken or turkey; slice the meat rather thick and sprinkle well with salt, put first a layer of dressing, then beef, in a lard pail until about two-thirds full, the top layer to be dressing; steam about 3 hours; let cool in pail, then turn out and slice with a sharp knife. Butter the pail, or mould before putting in meat, A pudding dish, or tin basin can^ie used. Boiled Beef Shank.— Purchase a shank ; put over fire in cold water, adding a tablespoon of salt. Boil till tender and remove from stock. Serve with prepared mustard. Part of this can be used for dinner, and the remainder made into meat-pie, pressed beef, hash, etc Pickled Pressed Beef. — Cut in very fine pieces the meat from a boiled shinbone, season with spices to taste, add a little well-reduced stock and some strong vinegar; pack in a deep dish and «lice vbencold MEATS. 179 Pressed Beef. — Buy a fore-leg of beef from a foot up ; it will weigh 10 or 12 pounds ; have it sawed, wash and put on in a large kettle (I put a steamer in the bottom of kettle so it won't burn). Let it boil until the meat comes off the bones, then put back and boil until very soft and the water has boiled down to about 1 quart. Take out the meat and chop and add seasoning to taste, pepper, salt and any herbs such as parsley, thyme, etc. Put in a deep dish and add the liquor in which it was boiled after skimming off the fat ; mix thoroughly. Put a plat€ over it with a weight on it, and set away to get firm, when it will slice neatly. Thiais very nice with baked potatoes or French fried potatoes. Fried liver and Bacon. — ^Wash the liver quickly in cold water, drying it with a meat cloth. Take each slice, sprinkle with salt and pepper on each, and dredge it with a little flour. Have the frying-pan hot and fry lightly the slices of bacon on both sides. Take them out on the hot platter and put in the slices of liver and fry them in hot,gfavy, turning them several times. When well done put the liver in the center of the platter and arrange the slices of bacon around the edge. Add a little Jjoiling water to the gravy; thicken it with a little flour stirred up in some cold water. Let it boil up well, and then pour it over the dish. It can be served without the gravy, and many prefer it so. It is sometimes rolled in flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in egg, and fried in hot fat mixed with one-third butter. In this case omit the bacon. Stewed Beef Liver. — Prepare as above, fry with salt pork until brown. Cut in strips together with the pork. Put back in the pan, together with a cup of water, a piece of butter rolled in flour, pepper and salt to taste. Stew 10 minutes. Serve hot. Boiled Com Beef. — Take a flank piece of corn beef, make a dressing as for turkey. Spread thickly over the beef; roll tightly and tie. Fold in a thin cloth. Boil until tender. Take up, drain, press under a weight, slice cold. A flank piece can be rolled and tied and boiled tender without dressing. Press and slice cold. Garnish with curled parsley and little pickles. Presied Com Beef. — Take cheap pieces of corn beef; boil until tender ; while boiling throw in a few allspice ; when done let it drain and pick to pieces, removing a:ll gristle and bone ; put in deep pan a plate which will cover all the meat, over that a weight; put away for 180 MEATS. a day or so ; when ready for use remove all grease from the top and slip a knife around the edge and turn out ; then slice ; very nice for tea and sandwiches. This recipe tested for 10 years in one family. New England Boiled Dinner. — Five pounds of the thibk end of the rib of corned beef, put into cold water, and keep it boiling until noon from seven o'clock in the morning ; put beets in about an hour later; at ten o'clock cabbage and a good-sized piece of salt pork; at 11, the carrots and parsnips, and at 11.15 the potatoes. Next day a vegetable hash can be made of the remnants, as follows : Chop finely all the salt pork that was left, twice as much of the corned beef, and then all the vegetables with it. Season to taste ; mix with a little rich milk: heat thoroughly in a frying-pan, and serve with catsup fcir a relish. "White beets are nicest to use for a boiled dinner. If red are used, be careful not to brea^the skin. Cut the cabbage in quarters or eighths, according to size. It is an improvement to boil a red-pepper pod with the whole. Peel the beets, and dish up the vegetables and meat on^B^eparate dishes for convenience in carving. Add boiling water whenever the kettle needs replenishing. Meat and Potato Pie. — A good English dinner for six, cheap and palatable. Take 2 pounds of pie beef and cut it up about an inch square, and let it stew until tender ; then slice^ medium-sized onions ; f^S f l' \rm^ 'Mi French Cook's Eiiife. peel about 10 large potatoes, slice them, put them in with the meat and onions; let all cook until the potatoes are about half done; then take a large dish; put the potatoes, meat, and onions all together; make a crust large enough to cover the dish. Take 1 }4 cups of flour, ft tablespoonful of lard, a pinch of salt ; fub in the flour, and add water to make a stiff dough; roll out as large as the top of dish. Before putting it on the dish, season with pepper and salt to taste; bake in a quick oven half an hour. Pickled Beef Tongue. — ^After the tongue is boiled peel it, place in a saucepan with 1 cupful water, half cupful vinegar, 4 tablespoon^ fuls of brown sugar, and cook wntil the liquor is evaporated. Then? slice when cold, MEATS. 181 Deviled Tongrae* — Chop boiled beef tongue very fine; season well with black and red pepper and mustard, add a little vinegar to just moisten; press solid and slice thin. This makes very nice sand- wiches also. Braised Beef Tongue. — ^Wash a 4 pound fresh tongue, simmer slowly for 2 hours, skin and trim off some of roots; tie the tip to the thicker part ; brown 1 tablespoon of butter, add 2 of flour, pour on slowly 1 quart of stock or water, add half a carrot, half a turnip, 1 potato, 1 onion, all cut fine, sprig of parsley, 3 bay leaves, 1 piece of celery or celery salt, 1 tablespoon Worcester sauce, 1 cup of tomatoes; put tongue in a kettle that can be covered air-tight, pour the above all over it, cover and bake 2 hours, strain sauce, which should be about half gone, around and over the tongue; nice hot and fine cold; calves' liver is also nice done this way. Spiced Beef Tongue. — Rub into each tongue a mixture made of half a pound of brown sugar, a piece of saltpetre size of a pea, and a tablespoonful of ground cloves. Put it in a brine made of three- quarters pound of salt in 2 quarts of water and keep covet'ed. Pickle 2 weeks, then wash and dry with a cloth, roll out a thin paste made of flour and water, smear it all over the tongue, place in a pan to bake slowly. Baste thoroughly-with lard and hot water. When done scrape off the paste and skim. Delicious sliced cold. Good hot. Meat Jelly. — Cut some dressed meat (beef or mutton) into slices smaller than for hash ; season them with salt and pepper; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in 1 pint of good, clear stock ; arrange the slices of meat in a mould with slices of hard-boiled eggs ; fill up the mould with the stock and put it into the oven for half an hour. Let it stand till quite cold, turn it out and garnish with watercress. Beef Heart, Stuffed. — ^Wash the heart carefully and open it enough to remove the ventricles. Then boil it 3 hours^ leaving only enough at the last for gravy. . When the heart is tender cut out a portion of the middle and fill the cavity with the following dressing: Dressing. — Bread-crumbs moistened, melted butter, pepper and salt ; season with sage or minced onion. If it is moistened with a beaten egg. Jt will stay in shape better when slicing. Put the heart in a pan in the oven with the liquor it was boiled in. Season with salt and pepper, and bake 20 minutes. Chop the piece of heart fine, stir into the liquor in the pan, and thicken slightly with browned flour. Serve 182 MEATS. the gravy separately. This dish is also very nice served cold without gravy. Slice thin and garnish with sliced lemon or parsley. Any kind of a turkey^ dressing will answer for the heart Dried Beef Frizzled in Cream. — Chip the beef thin as paper • have very hot in frying-pan a piece of butter the size of an egg. Stir the beef around in it for 2 or 3 minutes? dust in a little flour, add half cupful rich cream, boil and serve in a covered dish. Gravied Dried Beef.— Put a tablespoonfi^l of butter in the hot frying-pan; when melted, add one-half pound shaved beef. Let it fry till the butter begins to brown, then add 1 pint of sweet milk. Thicken with 1 level tablespoonful of flour moistened with milk and 1 egg beaten into the batter. This is a dainty breakfast dish. Dried Beef with Eggs.— Put chipped beef in a frying-pan and nearly fill with hot water. Set on the fire and let it boil up, and pour off. Put butter the size of a hen-egg to each half pound of meat Season with pepper and let it fry a few moments over a hot fire, then break 3 or more eggs into it Stir altogether until the eggs are done. Turn on a dish and serve. The meat can be fried as above, dredged with flour, and the eggs left out. Then fry the eggs sepa- rately and serve with it on a platter, same as with ham. Chipped Beef. — Pick fine one-half pound of dried beef, warm in a spider with a lump of butter (do not let it cook). Beat together 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of corn-starch and 1 cup of milk. Pour in the spider and let it boil up once. Tripe. Tripe, to Buy. — Choose the coarse, honey-combed tripe when purchasing it in market It is always cooked and usually pickled when purchased. If not pickled, throw it in vinegar enough to cover it, and add a little salt. After it has lain in the vinegar for 3 days, take it up and drain it, and it is ready for us^e. Fried Tripe. — To cook it in this way cut it in square pieces about 2 inches in size or larger; season each piece with a little salt and pep- per, dip it in the yolk of an egg, then in fine bread crumbs, and -fry it brown in hot fat. It is very nice served with maitre^d'hotel butter. Two or 3 slices of fat salt poric may be fried in pan before tripe is put in. Broiled Tripe. — Boil it till tender. When cold cut it in pieces 4 or 5 inches square, flour it well, grease the gridiron and broil over a MEATS. 183 clear fire. Lay it on a hot dish and season with salt, pepper and but- ter. The tripe referred to here is a kind sold cleaned, but not boiled. Give it the necessary six hours' boiling the day before. A cream sauce is nice to serve with either the broiled or fried tripe. The honey- comb tripe is chosen for these recipes. Tripe Fried in Batter. — Fry pickled tripe in an egg batter- Soak the tripe over night in cold water ; in the morning put it in a kettle of fresh cold water and boil it 20 minutes ; remove and dry on a cloth ; meantime have a quantity of fat pork well fried out, and bat- ter made with 1 egg, one-half cupful of milk or water, a pinch of salt^ and flour to make a drop batter ; cut the tripe in slices to serve- and cover with batter ; when the batter is well cooked the tripe will be teady to serve. About 3 minutes will cook it. Pickled Tripe. — Cut in inch square pieces, and pour over it highly-spiced boiling vinegar, pepper corns, mace, a little salt. This will ke^p some time. It is a nice side dish. Boast -^ripe. — ^Take 3 pounds of tripe, make a dressing of bread crumbs, a slice of onion cut fine, a bit of butter, and season with salt. Wet only enough to hold together. Lay the dressing smoothly over the tripe, and roll it lengthwise. " Roast in a moderate oven, basting with hot water and melted butter. , Tripe a la JTewbiirgr, — Cut the tripe into pieces the size of a small oyster. Make a sauce of 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 of butter, 2 teacupfuls of milk. When it thickens add the tripe ; let it boil up once. Season with a little pinch of ground mace, salt, pepper and a little stewed parsley. Boil 5 minutes. Add half a wineglassful of sherry. Serve on toast. Tripe in Cream.— Make a white sauce with 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 of butter, and a scant pint of milk. When it thickens add the tripe, cut into inch squares. Boil 5 minutes and serve hot on toast. Lyonnaise Tripe. — Boil the tripe in salted water, unless, as is often the case, it has been boiled before it was sold. Cut it in long, narrow strips. Put a tablespoonful of butter in the pan, and when it browns add a small onion cut into bits. When this has browned add a tablespoonful of vinegar, the tripe, a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper to iaste. If the pickled tripe is used, omit the vinegar. - Fricasseed Tri^e. — Cut a pound of tripe in narrow strips. Put a small cupful of water with it, add a bit of butter the size of an egg, 184 MEATS. dfedge in a large teaspoonful of flour ; season with a pinch of parsley or strlall onion, and let it simmer gently, not boil, for half an hour. Kidneys. Eadneys, Baked. — Boil four^ hours in three changes of water ; chop fine; add 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 of corn starch; salt, pepper, and butter, to taste, in the gravy. Bake half an hour. Nice dish for supper or breakfast. The kidneys can be boiled the day before. Kidney Stew.^ — Take a beef kidney, and pour boiling water over it to extract the blood ; then take from the water and remove all pieces of suet; cut in fine pieces, put in stew-pan, add an onion minced very fine ; cook slowly for two hours, covering the kidneys with water ; season to taste. Then blend 1 tablespoonful. of flour in a little cold water; stir in, and. let boil up once just before removing from the stove. Add a small lump of butter. Kidney Stew on Toast. — First wash the kidneys^ in salted water, and dry with a clean towel; fry 3 or 4 slices of bacon or salt pork ; then fry 2 or 3 small onions in the fat until a nice brown ; add 2 cups of hot water, sprinkle the kidneys with a little salt and pepper, and roll in flour. If left whole, it will take half or three-quarters of an hour to cook. Cut them in two or three pieces. When cooked enough remove from the pari, and if not qijite enough liquid to make a gravy, add a little more water ; use 1 level tablespoonful of flour to a pint of liquid for thickening gravy '; a little Worcestershire sauce improves it greatly. , Pour over slices of toast on a platter. Veal. Veal, while being one of the most palatable meats in the market, is the foundation of more delicate and delicious side dishes than any other. Calves' liver, brains, sweetbreads are better than from any other animal, and can be cooked in the daintiest fashions. The meat of the leg, which in full-grown beef is the comparatively tough round, is the fillet of veal — one of the nicest parts. For breading veal cutlets, etc., see directions in departmeint on " Croquettes and Fritters." Veal Stuffing'. — Soak bread in tepid water to make when squeezed dry 1 J^ cupfuls ; put 1 tablespoon of butter in a saucepan, and when hot stir in a small onion minced fine, which color slightly; then add the bread, with 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley, a little-grated nut- MEATS. 185 meg and half cup of white sauce, or stock, salt and pepper. Stir it over the fire until it leave the sides ; then stir in 2 eggs. Force Meat. — Any cold meat, such as veal, chicken or ham, may be used, chopping it very fine. For each cup of meat take the yolk of 1 egg, one-fourth of a cup of cracker or bread crumbs, 1 table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, and pepper and salt to taste. Mix the dry ingredients together, add the eggs beaten slightly. Butter in the proportion of 1 tablespoonful melted may be added if desired and minced onion. This can be used for dressing or made in balls and fried. Finely chopped raw veal can be used instead of cold meat. Chestnut Stuffing. — Boil the chestnuts and shell them; then blanch them and boil till soft ; mash them fine and mix with a little milk, bread crumbs, pepper and salt Stuff the breast. A loin of veal stuffed with chestnuts is a toothsome dish. Boast Breast of Veal. — ^This is a cheap cut, and has comparj . tively little bone, while at the same time the meat is peculiarly swed t and full of succulence, so that it is not strange that many delicious ways have been invented for its preparation. Have the bones removed at the market and sent home with the roast to use for soup. Flatten out the breast and make a dressing as for turkey, or a force-meat and spread it over the broad piece of meat, roll up, tie, and put the roll in a pan. Rub with butter; put water or soup stock in the pan and roast slowly, basting often. If the oven is too hot, put a piece of thick paper over the meat for a time, or cover it with sliced onions or car- rots. Make a pan gravy with a flour thickening. A delicious roast. Slice it through meat and dressing. Good cold also. Apple sauce is nice served with it. A great addition to the gravy is to add half a cup of cooked rice to it, and a little tomato sauce (the tomato sauce that is prepared to serve with meats). Stewed Breast of Veal. — ^The breast should be boned, trimmed free from fat and cut in small squares of about two inches. These squares should be simmered in stock slowly until they are so thor- oughly tender that they may be easily pierced in all parts with a lard-, ing needle. Thicken the gravy with a teaspoonful each of flour and but- ter mixed, taste it to see that it is well seasoned, and let it simmer again for 10 minutes. Replace the veal in it and let it warm up. When thor- oughly heated, dish the pieces in a circle and pour the gravy over them. 186 MEATS. Boast Loin of Veal. — Salt, pepper, and rub with butter. Put a cup of water in the pan adding a lump of butter. Baste frequently. Roast about 25 minutes to the pound. At the last dredge with flour ; let brown slightly. Skim the fat from the pan gray, add hot water, and thicken slightly with browned flour ; let boil up, and send to the table separately. Have the kidney roasted with the loin, if-^ossible, and serve a little of it with each helping of meat. Baked Fillet of Veal. — ^The fillet is the under part of the loin. Have it boned at the market, and fill the cavity with any preferred dressing, or a force-meat made of bread crumbs, a little finely chopped salt pork, sage, pepper and salt. Lay in bottom of baking-pan a few slices of salt pork. Skewer the veal and lay in tihe pan and pour over it one cup of boiling water ; baste frequently while baking. It is well to sew Up the opening after stuffing with dressing, A nice addi- tion is to cut gashes over the top of the veal and fill in with the dress- ing. Any dressing that is left can be poured over the top of the meat. Four hours will be necessary to cook this roast. A dash of catsup is an addition to the gravy. Currant jelly may be served with it. Veal Pot-pie. — Divide fiie meat in small pieces. Breast or some other cheap cut can be used. Season with salt, pepper and butter. Braised Veal.^Take a piece of the shpulder weighing about 5 pounds. Remove the bone and tie up in good shape. Put a piece of butter the size of half an egg, together with a few shavings of onions, into a kettle and let it get hot. Salt and pepper the veal and put it in the kettle. Cover and put over a medium fire, turning occasionally until the meat is brown on both sides. Then set the kettle back where it can simmer slowly for about 2^ hours. If the juices of the meat, together with the butter, do not make' sufficient gravy to cook it in, add one or two tablespoonfuls of hot water from time to time. Pot-Pie Crust. ^-Three cups flour, .2 heaping teaspoons baking- powder, half teaspoonful salt ; sift flour and baking-powder together, mix with either sweet milk or water; mix stiff) roll out thick and put over pot-pie as above. Or mix stiff" and drop with spoon in kettle 1 spoonful at a time, cook 20 minutes. Cover with tight lid and do "not take it off until done. Veal Stew. — Boil 2j4 pounds of breast of veal cut in small pieces 1 hour in water enough to cover, add 1 dozen potatoes and cook half MEATS. 187 an hour. Before taking off the stove add a pint of milk and flour enough to thicken. Season to taste. Carrots sliced thinly are an addition. The milk may b& omitted if not cared for, and boiling, water used instead; a lump of butter is an addition. The ends of the ribs, the neck and the knuckle may all be used in stews. Skim care- fully when the meat first begins to boil, and before serving take out all the small bones that will have loosened from boiling. This stew or fricasseed veal, as it is sometimes called, is nicer if the meat is first browned slightly in the kettle with butter and a little flour before the water is added. Veal Cutlets (Breaded). — ^Take inch-thick slices of veal, cut from the loin, rub with salt and pepper. Make a butter of 1 cupful of milk, 1 beaten egg and flour enough to thicken, add a pinch of bak- ing-powder. Fry the veal a delicate brown on each side. Dip in the batter, put back into the fat or blotter and fry brown once more. If there is any batter left, drop it in spoonfuls into the fat. Fry brown on each side, and arrange around the edge of the platter as a garnish, serving one with each cutlet. Thicken the gravy with browned flour, ^ first adding sufficient hot water. Another way is to dip the half-cooked cutlet first in beaten egg and then roll it in powdered cracker crumbs and fry slowly until brown on both sides. Many cooks omit this first frying, but it will be found to prevent the tendency to rawness. Garnish with lemon. Mock Duck. — Three good-sized veal cutlets trimmed into neat shape. Have ready a stuffing made of a large cupful of bread crumbs and 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped pork, one siiftall onion chopped fine, a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Roll and tie up the cut- lets, after having spread them with the stuffing. Put them into' a baking-pan, with cold water to cover them ; bake about three-quarters of an hour, covered closely. When nearly done take iialf a cup of gravy, half a cup of water, a tablespoonful of butter and let them come to a boil. Put the steaks on a hot dish, removing the thread carefully so as not to injure the shape of the roll. Pour on the gravy and cover them, adding a teaspoonful of catsup, a squeeze of lemon, a little salt and pepper, the last thing before taking up. Cutlets with Mushpooms. — Take some cutlets, each With a bone to it, trim them neatly in the same manner as mutton cutlets. Take a piece of rather lean bacon; cut it in slices about the eighth of an 188 MEATS. inch thick and trim each slice to the size of the cutlets. Sprinkle the veal with pepper and salt and fry each cutlet on both sides, in butter, till done. Fry the bacon separately ; arrange the cutlets and bacon alternately in a dish ; sprinkle them freely with minced parsley and thyme, and in the middle place the mushrooms, cooked as follows : Put in a saucepan the trimmings of veal, a carrot, a little minced onion, or a couple of shallots, parsley and sweet herbs, salt and pepper to taste, and three-quarters of a pint of common stock, and then boil for an hour ; then strain the liquor, thicken with 1 ounce of butter, rolled in a little flour — add a pint of well-washed and picked mush- rooms, and simmer for 15 minutes. Veal Head Cheese. — One pound of stewing veal and leg bone ; boil thoroughly; strain through a colander, saving the soup. Chop the meat very fine and return it to the soup.- Cook until thick, sea- son to taste with salt and pepper, pour into a mould, set on ice until jellied and serve with sliced lemon. Calf's Feet Stewed. — Thoroughly clean the calfs feet, cover them with boiling water, put in two onions, two carrots, and two heads of celery ; let them gently simmer 4 hours. Mix a heaped tablespoonful of flour smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan with the calfs feet, season with pepper and salt, let it boil 5r minutes, turn it upon a hot deep dish, with the vegetables round it, and some finely chopped parsley sprinkled over. Calfs Feet Fried. — Boil until tender, remove the large bones, split, dredge with flour, season with salt, pepper and powdered pars- ley, and fry brown in butter or dripping. If a gravy is wished, pour a, little water into the frying-pan, thicken with flour, and season. Squeeze in a little lemon juice. . Calf's Head Boiled. — Clean the -head, soak it in salt and water to blanch it. The brains and tongue can be saved to cook. (If the head is already prepared when bought, the brains and tongue will not be with it.) Boil tender, skim the water carefully. Salt to taste, simmer it gently until the bones slip out easily. Take up and drain very dry, dot with butter, sprinkle over with salt, pepper and finely powered sweet herbs, . dredge with flour or powdered bread ' crumbs. Set in a hot oven, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it to give a fine flavor. Or use a little of the liquor in which it was boiled for beistine. MEATS. 189 Roast brown, put on a hot platter. Take the necessary amount of the liquor for gravy, pour in the roasting pan, add a small piece of butter, thicken with browned flour, let it boil up with a few thin slices of lemon, i. e., if the lemon flavor is liked. Serve the gravy separately. If the brains are with the head, some cooks tie them in a cloth and boil half an hour with the head. Chop fine and add to the gravy— • omitting the lemon. Keep the liquor in which the head is boiled, and make a soup of it next. Season plain or make into a mock-turtle soup. Calf's Head Gbeese. — Boil a calf s head until the meat leaves the bones, pick it free from every particle of bone, season with pepper^ and salt (one tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper), and a tablespoonful of any sweet herbs that may be liked (parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, sage). Pack closely in a dish, put a small plate over it, with a weight upon it. When cold and firm, slice for tea or sandwiches. Mustard is nice with it. Calf s Brains, Boiled. — Soak the brains in salt water, then re- move the skin and wash free from blood. Put 2 sets of brains in a quart of cold water ; add to this a teaspoonful of salt, half cupful of vinegar, and 6 whole peppers. Boil tender, which will take about 20 minutes. Serve with salt, pepper and melted butter. Calf s Idver and Bacon. — Wash and dry the liver, cut in slices one-third of an inch and flour well. Frj' the bacon crisp, then lay in the liver and brown nicely ; take up in center of platter with bacon around. Serve a slice of bacon with each slice of liver. A brown gravy can be made if wished by pouring off the unnecessary, adding a little hot water in the pan, and thickening with a little flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Season to taste; let boil up and serve in a gravy boat. Not as delicate a dish as when liver is broiled. Ham and liver. — Fry thin slices of ham and in the ham fat cook the liver, first rolling it in flour. Serve on same dish. Fricasseed Cali's liver. — Two pounds of liver cut into strips half an inch thick and finger length. Dredge them with flour and fry to a light brown, turning often. Make a gravy in the pan with the hot fat and a little flour and water. Add to it a finely minced onion and a little parsley. Put in the liver, add half a cup of hot water, a table- spoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of catsup, salt and pepper to taste. Let it boil up and serve, pouring the gravy round the liver. If soup stock is convenient use instead of made gravy. 190 MEATS. Calf s Liiver, Plain. — Slice liver and let it fry in butter in a shallow frying-pan. When done place it in a warm dish, sprinkle with pepper, salt and chopped parsley, and pour over them the butter in the pan. Mock Terrapin. — One pound of sliced calf's liver^, salt, fry brown. Hash it — not too fine, flour thickly and add 2 ihard*brafcd eggs, 1 tea- spoonful of mixed mustard, a dash of cayenne pepper, butter the size of an egg, 1 teacupful of boiling water. Let boil 10 minutes and serve with slices of toast. . Sweetbreads, To Prepare. — When properly prepared sweetbreads form many of the most delicate dishes that can be placed upon the table. In whatever style sweetbreads are to be served they should first be soaked in salt and water, and then plunged in boiling water to whiten and harden them. In boiling sweetbreads a porcelain kettle should be used, and in cutting them^a silver knife, as they conWn an acid that acts upon iron, tin or steel, and destroys much of the deli- cate flavor. Add a tablespoonful ^of vinegar to water in which the sweetbreads are parboiled, or the same amount of lemon juice. Seven minutes' boiling is enough to parboi L t ke m. Creamed Sweetbreads. — Parboil a pair of sweetbreads, pack into small pieces and chop fine with half a dozen mushrooms. Put a tea- spoonful of butter in a small saucepan and set on the stove to melt ; when hot add a tablespoonful of flour, mix until smooth, pour over half a pint of cream, and stir until boiling ; add the sweetbreads and mush- rooms, set the saucepan in a kettle of boiling water, and stir 5 minutes ; season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Serve in little paper cases. Sweetbreads in Jelly. — Parboil a pair of sweetbreads. Take up and press between plates until firm and cold. Cut them into cutlets. Have some aspic jelly melted slightly ; dip each cutlet in it. Chop some of the jelly into pieces, arrange in a circle, lay the cutlets on this, fill the center with chopped celery, pour mayonnaise around the dish, and garnish with little squares of aspic. Serve very cold. See directions for Aspic. Mutton. Boast Mutton.^The pieces best for roasting are the hindquarter of the sheep, called the. loin and the leg, also chime or saddle, which is the two loins together. Trim carefully, rub butter over it, dredge with salt and pepper. Put a very little, water in the baking-pan, to baste. with, and afterward with its own gravy. Turn the bony sids MEATS. 191 toward the fire first and roast. If it browns too fest cover with a sheet of white paper. Allow 15 minutes -to each pound of meat. Skim the gravy well and thicken with browned flour. Serve with melted currant jelly, or with mint sauce. Boast Mutton with Browned Potatoes. — Wipe the mutton care- fully, rub it with pepper and coarse salt, sprinkle with summer savory. Put the meat on a rack, fill the space under it with boiling water. Slice an onion thinly and lay over the meat and put in the oven, with a quick fire. If no rack is handy, set the meat up on 3 or 4 muiBn rings. Cover the pan. About 30 minutes before dinner pare pota- toes and put around the meat, turning them so that the meat and potatoes alike will be beautifully browned. By roasting in this way there will be about a quart of the best stock in the space under the rack. Of this take enough for gravy and put away^the rest for next day's soup. Make a gravy as follows : Skim off part of the fat, stir in a small tablespoonful of tomato catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcester- shire sauce and a grated or finely minced onion. Wet a teaspoonful of browned flour smoothly with cold water, stir in, let boil up, strain and send to the table. Stuffed Leg of Mutton, Boasted. — Remove the bone from a small leg of mutton without spoiling the skin. Trim off most of the fat. Fill the space from which the bone was removed with a dress- ing made same as for fowls, adding to it a finely minced onion. Sew the leg up underneath to Iceep the dressing in place. If any of the dressing remains, cut gashes in the fleshy part of the leg and fill. Bind up with tapes of strips of muslin. Put in a roasting pan, turn in a cupful of hot water and put in a moderately hot oven, basting it occasionally. ^ -^ When partly cooked season with salt and pepper. When thor» oughly cooked, put the leg on a hot platter, skim the fat from the top of the gravy, add a cup of hot water, and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in cold water. Let boil up and add a spoon- ful of tomato catsup. Serve separately. Send currant jelly and mashed turnips to the table with it. Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. — ^Take a shoulder of mutton, remove the blade and other Jjones neatly, and fill the spaces with small raw oysters (about half a pint), season well with salt and pep- per, rub some salt on the outside of the meat, tie securely in a cloth 192 MEATS. that has previously been wrung out of cold water and well floured j then put it into boiling water (salted), and boil gently from 2 to 2^ hours, according to nuniber of pounds. Serve with oystef sauce, made as follows : Half pint of small oysters, 1 ^ tablespoons of but- ter, 2 heaping teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Wash the oysters in water enougfiTb make 3 gills with the oyster liquor, work the butter and flour together to make a smooth paste,' let the water and oyster juifce come to a boil, skim and pour it gradu- ally on the flour ajid butter, let come to a boil and add the oysters and seasoning ; boil up once and serve with boiled beets and squash, baked potatoes, graham bread and some kind of fruit jelly. An ap- petizing meaL Boiled Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce. — Wipe a leg of mut- ton with a damp towel, put it in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and let simmer gently 15 minutes for every pound, add a teaspoonful of salt. When the mutton is done, lay on a dish, garnish with pars- ley and serve with caper sauce. Caper Sauce. — Mix two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour to a smooth paste in a' bowl, set in a pan of boihng water ; thin the mixture with a large cupful of water, stir until smooth, add half a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful df capers, take from the fire. Or it may be' stuffed, and wrapped in a floured cloth to keep in the dressing ; remove the towel carefully and serve as above. Mutton Pie. — ^Take some chops from a well-hung ncck'of mut- ton, remove all superfluous fat, and season highly with pepper and salt. Chop together 2 apples and 1 onion. Put a layer of cutlets into a pie-dish, scatter over a layer of apple and onion, then another layer of meat, and so on till the dish is full. Cover with a good plain pastry, and bake for three-fourths of an hour in a steady oven. Mutton and Tomato Pie. — Butter a deep dis^, put in a layer of sliced tomatoes, then a layer of mutton cut in rather small pieces, sprinkle lightly with fine bread crumbs, and season with pepper, salt and bits of butter. Continue until the dish is full, having the crumbs for the top. Bake an hour and a half. Mutton and Potato Pie. — Get a mutton stew, cut into convenient pieces and boil until tender. Pare some potatoes and cut into rather small pieces, put in with the meat and cook until done. Then place MEATS. 193 •11 in a lai^ pan or baking dish, cover with a crust made as for baking powder biscuit ; bake. Mutton Steak with Bice. — Boil a cupful of well-washed rice in 2 quarts of water and a coffeespoonful of salt; boil 20 minutes, drain. Cut a thick steak from the thickest part of an under-leg of mutton ; broil by turning often until done rare. Put in the middle of a hot platter, season with salt and pepper. Surround it with rice. A little orange or lemon juice can be squeezed over the dish. Chops In Paper. — Chops, birds and dry fish are most delicate and delicious broiled in paper. This should be spread with olive oil ; then the article to be broiled, salted and peppered, should be snugly tucked in the case, turning the edges over several times, and pinching together those, close to the meat. The paper will char a long time before igniting, and the contents will be basted in their own juices. The time required for broiling in paper is usually about 8 minutes. When the paper is well browned, the bird or chop is done to a juicy, delicate and digestive turn. Serve in its envelope, which conserves the heat and juices to the moment of eating. Boast liamb. — The fore and hind quarters are good for roasting, dredge with flour, sprinkle salt, pepper and bits of butter over the meat, baste frequency with butter and water. It must be well done ; bake 20 minutes to the pound. It can be stuffed also like fillet of veal. Mint sauce is the conventional dressing, but a cream sauce is also nice. Cream Sauce. — Pour off the fat from the pan, add a cup of milk and thicken with a little flour, season, add a little butter if necessary. A sprinkling of chopped parsley will add to the flavor. Green peas or mashed turnips should be served with lamb. Grilled Lamb. — Take a shoulder of lamb. Score in squares an inch each way. Brush over with melted butter, then with the beaten yolk of an egg, roll in bread crumbs, dredge with salt, pepper and powdered sweet herbs. Roast a delicate brown, and make a gravy in the pan, adding to it 1 tablespoonful of tomato catsup, and thicken- ing with browned flour. Braised Lamb.— Take of lamb or young mutton 3 pounds; roll in salted flour, place in a skillet with hot fat and then cook till brown on both sides. Pour on a pint of hot water, cover tightly, cook rapidly twenty minutes, take upon a hot plate, spread with catsup and serve immediately. COOK— 13 194 MEATS. Liamb and Green Peas, — Three pounds of lamb> a can of French peas, a medium-sized carrot, 2 tablespoons of butter, a medium-sized onion. Remove all the fat possible from the lamb and dust it over with flour ; put the butter over the fire in a stew-pan ; when hot add the onion, which must be sliced fine ; when the onion is brown re- move from the butter ; put in the lamb and let it browri all over ; then cover with hot water; salt and pepper to taste, and set it at the back of the stove, where it will just simmer. Slice the carrot thin, and cut the slices in quarters. After the lamb has cooked one hour and a half add the carrot and cook another hour. Just before serv- ing take up lamb and put it on a hot platter. Thicken the gravy and add the peas. When well heated through pour over the lamb and serve very hot. If the water evaporates in cooking add a little more before thickening the gravy. If green peas are used, they must be put in and cooked 20 minutes before the gravy is thickened ; can be put in before the lamb is taken up. Liamb Pie. — Make a crust as for beefsteak pie ; line a deep dish around the sides ; take 2 pounds of lamb, cut in small pieces, and one onion cut fine; take 10 apples, pare and slice. Put -a layer of apples, then meat, then onion, pepper, salt and a little sugar, then put on top crust.and bake. Nice with mashed potatoes ; half cup of water in pie. Love in Disguise. — ^Take 2 nice, fresh lambs' hearts and stuff tliem with bread-crumbs, sage and onions, and bake for about 10 minutes in a sharp oven; then take some mashed potatoes and cover the hearts all over and then put into the oven until brown; make some gravy and serve hot. MEATS. 198 Imitation Barbecue Mutton. — Roast the mutton as usual, but one hour before ready to serve prepare the following mixture : One' third cup each of Worcestershire sauce, tomato catsup and vinegar, saltspoon of pepper, one round teaspoonful of mustard. Stick the meat all over witlv a sharp-pointed knife, and fill the places with the mixture just prepared. If any is left, pour over the roast wheii it comes to the table. > Pork. Boast Leg of Pork. — Choose a small leg of fine, young pork^cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp knife and fill the space with sage and onions chopped, moistened bread-crunibs, and a little pepper and salt ; when half done score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper than the outer rind. Apple sauce and potatoes should be served with it. Roast 25 minutes to the pound, since pork must be thoroughly cooked. If a loin roast, make deep gashes between the ribs and fill with dressing. In the leg m&ke deep incisions in the meat at the large end and fill with the dressing. Put 1 cupful of water in the pan and baste with this. Pour off all the fat after the meat is taken up, turn in sufficient hot water, thicken with browned flour and add juice of half a lemon. If apple sauce is not served, send spiced goose- berries, or currants, or currant jelly in with it. Parsnips are an ac- companying vegetable. Roast pork is very much improved by sprinkling a little sage over the top. Sweet potatoes should be boiled until nearly done, then skinned and put in the pan with the pork and roasted until brown. Sbonlder of Pork, French Fashion. — ^Take a 7-pound fresh shoulder and have the butcher score it ; then put it in the steamer and let it steam three hours, or until the rind will come off easily with a fork; then take off the rind, salt and flour it, and put it in the oven and bake 1 hour, so it will be browned on all .sides. Then make the gravy in the pan as above. Apple sauce should be served with it. Boast Pig. — The pig should weigh, before dressing, 10 or 12 pounds. Boil the liver and heart 20 minutes in salted water, and chop finely. Cut a loaf of bread in slices, dip in cold water, chop and add to the minced meat; pour over all one-quarter cup of melted butter and two well-beaten eggs ; season with salt, pepper, sage and onions, if liked. Mix all thoroughly, fill the pig and sew it together. Bend the forelegs under at the knees, and the hind legs 196 ^ . MEATS. forward at the gambrel joint; put a corn-coU in the mouth to keep it open, and wrap with cord to keep the legs in position. Put in the dripping-pah with tin dishes on each side to keep it on the knees; add a little water and bake from two to three hours. Baste frequently, using melted butter at first, and be careful that it does not burn. Before sending to the table put in the mouth a lemon or a small, red apple, and serve with baked sour apples. A potato dressing, with the addition of sage, is sometimes^ used. Skim and strain the gravy ; bojl up; thicken with browned flour; add the juice of a lemon; serve in a boat. In carving, cut off the head, split down the back, take off the hams and shoulders, separate the ribs. Boast liotn of Pork witb Apple StuflSngr. — First trim and cut out all the bones, the skin scored in little squares and the bones re- placed with the tart apples, pared and quartered, well reasoned with salt, pepper and sage, and tied around to secure the apples. The loin is then roasted brown, with no water, basted only with its own drippings; as it bi;owns dust with flour, and then baste in turn; keep warm while a gravy is made by stirring cider into the pan, where enough flour has fallen to make a thick sauce, which, if well boiled and properly seasoned, makes a delicious gravy. Serve with it baked sweet potatoes. Boiled teg of Pork. — Choose a small compact leg of pork, rub well with salt, and let it remain in pickle a week or ten days, turning and >:ubbing every day. An hour before preparing put in cold water for an hour. If the leg is purchased already salted, find out how- long it has been in pickle and soiak accordingly. Put the leg over to boil in sufficient cold water to cover it. Let come to a boil and skim care- fully. Simmer gently until tender. If cooked too fast, the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done. Carrots, turnips or parsnips, may be boiled with the pork, and some of them should be laid around the platter as a garnish. If the leg weighs 8-pounds, it should cook 3 hours after it begins to boil. Cold Boast Pork. — ^The remains of cold roast pork, always a difficult meat to re-cook, can be utilized by cutting the meat in dice, allowing a little of the fat to remain with it ; season with pepper and salt, add a dessertspoonful of parsley cut fine, a pinch of sage, another of summer savory, a sprinkle of mace and nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of minced lemon peel. Mix well, put in a baking-dish, moisten wiA MEATS. J 97 any gravy that may have been left, and bake about an hour. Serve hot or cold. Boiled Ham. — Soak over night in cold water, 24 hours if it be very salt. Put over to boil in cold water, let cook slowly until a fork will penetrate easily, draw off the skin. Sprinkle fine bread crumbs mixed with brown sugar, over the top. Bake 1 hour. If the ham is to be glazed, omit the bread crumbs in roasting. Use the glace before given in this department, or, this : Brush over with the yolk of a well-beaten egg. Dredge thickly with finely powdered cracker- crumbs, and cover with sweet cream, and put in the oven long enough to brown. Granish with curled parsley. If it is to be simply boiled, let it become cool in the water in which it has been cooked. In this way the juices of the meat are retained, and the dryness so common in cold ham is prevented. Cut writing paper in a fringe and twist around the bone before serving. A 15-pound ham will require at least five hours to cook. Ham can be soaked in a boilerful of sour milk for 24, hours before cooking. Set the boiler on the back of the stove, thus keep- ing the milk warm to draw out the salt and to make the meat tender. Then boil as above. Scrub the outside of ttie ham with a stiff brush and then rinse thoroughly before putting to soak. A boiled ham can be served hot or cold, and the remnants can be used in many ways. Sugared Ham.-r-Sugared ham is something worth having in the house. Cut in thin slices ; it may be served in an emergency to good advantage. For Sunday-night suppers it is also excellent. The recipe here given is a Cuban one and is declared delicious. Three days are necessary in carry out the directions. The ham is given a plain boiling on the first day, on the second it is immersed in cider, and on the third day it receives a coating of sugar icing. Deviled Ham. — Cut a thick slice of ham from the leanest part. Dredge it with dry curry powder or black pepper. Broil over a clear fire, turning frequently, and taking care not to cook too much. Serve with the/following sauce poured over the ham : One teaspoonful of black pepper mixed with 2 of mustard flour. Melt 1 ounce of butter in a saucepan, and work in the mustard. Dilute wjth 4 tablespoonfuls of meat stock or water, add a tablespoonful of minced gherkin or capers, and a few drops of chilli vinegar. Make this boiling hot, add more vinegar if not acid enough. Pour the sauce on to a very hdt 198 MEATS. meat dish. Lay the ■•broil on it. None of the sauce must touch thfe upper surface of the broiled meat. Garnish with Jlsmon rings and serve. Ham Cutlets on Toast.^-Chop cold boiled ham fine, add to it an equal quantity of bread crumbs, a dash of pepper, tablespoon&l of chopped parsley, and stir in two whole eggs, well beaten. Form this mixture into little cutlets the shape of a tiny ham ; dip them in egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. Dish each one on a piece of toast. A cream gravy can be made in the pan and served with it if wished. Turn off most of the fat in the frying-pan, add a cup of rich milk or cream ; thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in cold milk, let boil, season and send in with the cutlets," or else turn around, riot over, them In the dish. ^ Spare>-rib Pot Pie. — Cut the spare-ribs once across, then in strips 3 or 4 inch6s wide, stew until tender in enough hot water to cover. Season with salt and pepper. Empty the kettle and refill as follows : A layer of spare-ribs, a layfer of peeled (raw) potatoes, cut" in quarters, if large, some bits of butter, some small squares of baking powder biscuit, rolled thin, seasoh again, and so on until the kettle is two-thirds full, leaving squares of crust for the top layer. Then add the liquor in which the spare-ribs were boiled, and hot w^ter if needed. Cover closely^ and boil }^ to f{ hour, adding hot water towards the last to keep from burning. Have enough water on at first so that for half an hour the cover will not have to be removed, so it will not fall. If, after taking up, there is not enough gravy, add flour and butter and hot water rubbed together ; season to taste, and serve. To warm up, set in a dripping-pan in oven, add lumps of butter, with gravy and hot water. Spare-rib and Sauerkraut. — Two pounds spare-ribs, those with the small ribs ; wash and place them in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, put 1 quart of sajierkraut on top of the spare-ribs, cover and cook lj4 hours; then remove the spare-ribs and lay them on a hot dish, taste the kraut, if not salt enough add more salt, and if not sour enough add 1 tablespoonful of white vinegar ; then grate 1 peeled po- tato, add it to the kraut, stir and cook 5 minutes, then serve. Pork Pie. — ^^Stew pieces of lean fresh pork till nearly done and season with salt — ^back-bone pieces are best; dredge the bottom of a deep pan thickly with flour ; put in the meat and season with black MEATS. 199 ^pper ; pour over the gravy, dredge with floor, and add the crust, which should be made like baking powder biscuit, rolled, cut open- ing for escape of steam, and put over the top of the pie ; bake till the crust is done. A little powdered sage may be added, if liked. A tablespoon of catsup is nice. . Pork and Apple Pie. — Peel, quarter and core some fine, juicy baking apples, make a nice paste and line the bottom and sides of a deep dish. PGt in the apples, strewing among them sugar enough to sweeten and a pinch of salt. Cut some nice pork in small pieces, re- moving most of the fat, and all of th© bone, cover the apples with a layer of meat, and pour in a teacup of sweet cider, heap up the pie in the center, put on a top crust with a slit in the center. Bake it Well in a hot oven. The juice of a lemon, or a little yinegar in a cup of water, may be used instead of the cider. Baked Salt Pork. — Boil 4 or 5 pounds of pork having " streaks of lean" in it, in plenty of water for lyi hours. Take it out, remove the skin, cut gashes across the top, sprinkle over a little powdered sage, pepper and rolled crackers. Place in the oven until browned. To be eaten cold or hot. Salt Pork Stew. — -A piece of pork not too fat is required for this. Cover with' cold water and simrner for 2 hours or more according to the size of the piece. Add sliced onions and potatoes. Boil half an hour and add dumplings. Cover closely and do not let stop boiling for 15 minutes, when it is ready to serve. Salt Pork in Batter. — Take off the rind ; fry as you like it. Make a batter the same as you would for anything. Dip the pork in the batter and fry again. Don't pour the fat on with the pork. , Corned Spare-ribs. — Very nice. Get them at the market ready corned, or put in pickle with other meats at home. Boil in plenty of water, and serve plain, or use them for a boiled dinner instead of corned beef or ham. Nice cold also. Creamed Bacon. — Bake in the oven slices of bacl)n till they are brown and crisp ; put them on a hot platter ; add to the fat in the pan a teaspoonful or more of flour ; stir till smooth, add gradually a tea- tupful and a half of milk and cook 2 minutes. The bacon can be fried instead of baking. Bacon and Sweet Potatoes. — Fry thin rashers of bacon to a •trisp brown, fry thick slices of cold boiled sweet potatoes in the drip- 200 MEATS. ping and heap !n a hot dish with the bacon around the outside. An appetizing breakfast dish. Liver and Bacon Balls. — One cup of boiled calf's liver, ^ cup bacon, mince very fine, add salt and pepper, form into balls or small cakes, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat ; serve gar- nished with parsley. Bacon and Beans. — Soak the beans over night and cook exactly as pork and beans. Remember, however, to leave the bacon in a single square piece. When it has boiled perfectly tender, which will be befofe the beans, take it out. Then skim and set aside until the beans are very tender. Place the bacon in the center of- a baking dish, drain the beans and put them around the bacon ; fill to the top of the beans with liquor in which they were boiled. Bake 1^ or 2 hours, until the liquid is nearly all absorbed. Then serve hot. Potted Ham. — ^To 2 pounds of lean ham allow one-half pound of fat, 1 teaspoonful of mace, half a nutmeg grated, one-half -teaspoonful of cayenne pepper. A teaspoonful of dry mustard may be added. Mince the fat and lean together and pound as smooth as possible, sea- soning it. Have the mace ground or "pounded fine. A mortar js best to pound the meat ; a stone jar and a .potato masher can be substituted. Put the mixture in a baking dish and bake half an hour. Press it down firmly in a small stone"7ar, and fill the jar up with melted lard. Paste , paper over the jar ; it will keep a long time in winter. It is nice to serve cold for lunch, sliced, or for company sandwiches. Scrape the lard off and slice. If not all used, melt the lard and pour back. Pig's Feet Soused. — Scald the feet and scrape them clean if the covering of the toes will not come off without; singe them in hot embers until they are loose, then take them off. Some persons put the feet into weak lime waiter to whiten them. Having scraped them clean and white, wash them and put them into a pot of warm but not boiling water, with a little salt. Let them boil gently till, by turning a fork in the flesh, it will easily break and the bones are all loosened. Take off the scum as it rises. When they are done take them out of ^the water and lay them in vinegar enough to cover them, adding to it one-quarter of a pint of the water in which they were boiled. Add 6 pepper corns, .a few allspice, 4 cloves and a little mace. Put them in ajar and cover closely. Soused feet may be eaten cold from the MEATS. 201 vinegar, split in two from top to toe, or they may be split in two, dipped in flour and fried in hot I^rd, or they may be broiled and but- tered. But in the latter case they should be nicely browned. Head Cheese. — One small pig's head, or half a large head, 4 pig's feet ; have cleaned and trimmed. This can be done at the market. The feet make ^e cheese firmer, and less fat. Put in a kettle with water enough to cover ; boil slowly until all the bones will slip out. Then Set away; when cold skim all the fat oflfthe top. Then set the kettle back on the stove until it warms the meat. Set off, skim out the meat into a chopping bowl, work through the hands to remove all the small bones. Season highly with pepper, salt, powdered thyme, summer savoty, allspice and cinnamon. Chop fine, and add some of the liquor -m which the meat was boiled. Pack closely in deep dishes or pint bowls. In a cold place it will keep months. Slice thinly. A weight will press it firmer. Sausage. — Seven and one-half pounds of lean pork, 2)4 pounds of fat pork, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sage, 2 level tablespoonfuls of summer savory, 4 level tablespoonfuls of salt, 2 level tablespoonfuls of black pepper. Any one that prefers can use one-half beef instead of all pork. Chop the meat fine in a chopper, removing all stringy parts ; add the spices, stir and run all through the chopper again to mix thoroughly. A little flour mixed with the meat keeps the fat from running out so freely when cooking the sausage. Stuff the sausage meat into prepared intestines or long narrow muslin bags. Dip the bags in melted lard and. hang in a cool, dark place. Leave some in bulk to fry in little cakes, browning on each side. To Keep Sausage. — ^To put away sausage for a relish next sum- mer, it should be fresh, nicely seasoned and rather fat. Stuff some in skins, fry, and coil around in sweet, clean earthen crocks, pour over them the boiling fat that comes out of them, and if that does not entirely cover, add boiling lard. When cold tie paper or muslin over the top. Instead of stuffing, the sausage may be made in cakes, fried and put up in the same way, but it is apt to absorb more grease. To use, melt the fat from them, lift carefully with a fork into a drip- |ping-pan, and set in^the oven to crisp the skins. ' Bologna Sausage. — ^Two pounds of lean pork, 2 pounds of lean veal, 2 pounds of lean beef, 2 pounds fat salt pork, 9 teaspoonfuls powdered sage, or summer, savory^ 2 tablesjpoonfuls each of parsley 202^ MEATS. and thyme, 4 teaspoonfuls of black pepper, 1 teaspoonful cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Chop or grind the meat very fine, sf^son, mixing it well by running through the grinder again. Have v«ell-cleaned beef intestines, fill, prick, tie, and boil gently for 1 hour. Take out the sausages and lay theni to dry in the sun upon clean, sweet straw or hay. Rub the outside of the skins with melted butter or oil, and put them in a cool, diy cellar. Or they may be smoked the Same as hams; slice for lunch or supper. If they are not smoked and yet are to be kept more than a week, rub ginger or pepper on the outside, wash off before using; or pack the chopped meat in muslin cases 9 or 10 inches^ long and 4 wide; tie securely and leave in a ham pickle 4 or 5 days ; smoke for a week. Hang in a cool, dark place. Brine or Pickle for Corned Beef, Ham, Sboulder, or Mutton. — For 50 pounds of meat take 2 gallons of water, 4 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of brown sugar, 1 ounce of saltpetre. Let boil 10 minutes, skim well, take from the fire and set aside until cold. Put the pieces of beef in a tub or small meat-cask and cover with brine, weight the meat under, cover the top, and set in a cool, dark place. Thus pre- pared the meat will keep a year. A piece of beef remaining in this a few days makes delicious corn-beef. If it remains in several weeks, it should be soaked over night before using. A round of beef put in this pickle 4 weeks and then dried slowly in a cool, dark place makes good dried beef. A handful of mace and cloves thrown into the brine will improve the flavor of the meat. If desired to give the meat a red color, four times as much saltpetre must be used. "' PicMing Hams. — ^A handy recipe for curing hams is this : Take 4 quarts of salt, 4 ounces of saltpetre, 4 pounds of brown sugar dis- solved in water. Pack a hundredweight of hams closely together and pour this pickle over them, let thenat remain 10 days and'then smoke. Cover the hams when smoked with canvas, dip in white- wash several times, allowing each coating to dry before another is added. Never let the fire for smoking meat start into a blaze, as heat will start the fat of meat and injure it. Before warm weather take the meat down, rub with pepper and molasses; hang up again and smoke. Repeat this several times and insects will not disturb the meat. Never pickle pork until 2 days after killing ; sprinkle it lightly with saltpetre in the meantime to draw out the blood. Three months pickles it to perfections but it can be smoked sooner. Cover the bottom of the MEATS. 203 barrel with coarse salt, put in the hams first with the outside down ; sprinkle them on the flesh side with fine salt. Then the shoulders, and next the side pieces. Then tiirn on the pickle. Brine, to Benew. — If the brine becomes sour, or the pork tainted, turn off brine ; boil, skim well, pour back upon meat boiling hot, Dried Beef. — For every 20 pounds of beef take 1 pint of salt, 1 teaspooQful of saltpeter, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar. Mix well and divide into about 3 equal paf ts, and rub well into the beef on / 3 successive days. Keep it in a crock or kettle and turn each day for a week in the liquor it will make, then hang it up to dry. Corn Beef, to Flavor. — In 'boiling salt beef an excellent flavor may be imparted to it by the following methods : Mix a tablespoon- ful of vinegar with the same quantity of Worcester sauce and of stout (or beer) ; add a teaspoonful of dry mustard and a tablespoonful of brown sugar, a few cloves and allspice. Stir well together and let it remain until the sugar is dissolved. This mixture should be added to the water in which the beef is boiling, just before it is done. The beef must then be allowed to remain in the water until cold. What to Serve with Meats. Roast beef — grated hbrse-radish, Worcestershire sauce, pickles ; roast pork — apple sauce or cranberry sauce; roast veal — tomatoes or mushroom sauce; roast turkey or chiqken — cranberry sauce; roast mutton — currant jelly ; roast lamb — mint sauce ; roast goose — apple sauce, cranberry sauce or currant jelly; corned beef—mustard; boiled mutton — caper sauce ; boiled chicken— bread sauce ; boiled turkey — oyster sauce ; venison or wild ducks^ — black currant jelly, or currant jelly warmed or melted ; broiled fresh mackerel-^stewed gooseberries ; boiled blue-fish — white " cream " sauce ; broiled shad — ^boiled rice and salad ; lemons ; compote of pigeons — mushroom sauce; fresh salmon — green peas, "cream" sauce; lobster — salad dressing; sardines — sliced lemons; fish in general — Worcestershire sauce ; ham — mustard ; cod-fish, fresh — oyster sauce ; boiled beef— horse-radish ; rabbits — black currant jelly. i Pickles are good with all roast meats — in fact with meats in gen- , cral. Lemon juice is a pleasant addition to-nearly all fish. Slices of lemon cut into very small dice and allowed to boil up iii drawn but- ter is a fine accompaniment to fowls. There is, perhaps, no question that comes, before the housekeeper with more frequency than the disposal of the remnants of meat, fish and fowl in some appetizing fashion. The average servant usually refuses to see anything in them save " cold meat," and a too frequent appearance under this guise sometimes provokes a domestic mutiny. Now a little ingenuity is all that is needed to transform these despised fragn;ients into dainty dishes that will tempt the most fasti- dious, and sometimes in summer are more appetizing than at their first appearance. There are many ways in which to use these left- over bits of meat besides making into hash, although this;^ when well made, is by no means to be despised. Thus the remnants from a meal should never be thrown away, but turned, instead, into dainty and healthful di-shes. For making soup stock and curry powder, fiee " Department of Souf)s." Pieces of cold meat or fish may be divided into small pieces and warmed in a white or brown sauce, or the sauce and meat or fish may be put in a small baking-dish, covered with grated bread-crumbs, and then browned in the oven. Cold meat or fish may be hashed fine and mixed with potato^ rice or hominy and a sauce, and made into croquettes. Tough pieces of meat and bones may be used in making little stews or a little soup stock. All kinds of meat can be com- bined in making a stew or soup. Pieces ,of bread may be used for puddings and griddle-cakes, and in the form of dried crumbs for breading. Pieces of cake and ginger- bread may be used in puddings. A few spoonfuls of almost any kind of meat, fish or vegetable may be heated in a sauce and spread over ■i plain omelet just before rolling it up, thus giving a change in this dish of eggs. Gravies, sauces and soups, no matter ho^ small the quantity, should be saved to use in warming over meat, fish or vege- tables. See " Croquettes, Omelets, Fritters and Toasts " for othei methods of serving "left-overs," 204 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 205 Beef Balls. — Mince very fine pieces, of boiled .or roast beef, mix Ivith it cold mashed potatoes and one or two eggs. Season well, roll into little balls, dip in flour and fry in butier. Beef Pie. — Mince cold cooked beef or other meat, using fat and lean. Have very fine. Season with pepper and salt, chopped onion, and a little parsley, if liked. Moisten with gravy, or, if none is handy, use warm water in which has been melted a little butter. Fill patty- pans two-thirds full of this mince, and fill to the top with cold mashed potatoes. Put a bit of butter on each, and brown in a hot oven. ' Beef Patties. — Chop very fine the beef left from dinner. Add cracker crumbs, 1 small onion minced fine, salt and pepper and 1 egg. Make into balls and fry in butter. Warmed Over Beef frith Potato Border. — Cut cold, rare roast beef (or any cold meat may be used) into pieces 1 inch in size; to every half pound of meat add 1 saltspoonful of salt, one-half salt- spoonful of pepper, 1 saltspoonful of celery salt, 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 saltspoonful of thyme; mix well. Into a frying-pan put 2 tablespoonfuls of drip- pings, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, when heated stir well, and add gradually 1 pint of boiling water. If there is a little gravy or soup stock to be had add to this, reducii^f the amount ,of water uspd. Add the meat and seasoning, bring to a boil, put on a platter the meat with some gravy and ar- range the potatoes in a border around the rheat, place in a rather hot oven, and when potatoes are slightly browned remove from oven and pour remaining ^gravy over the meat. | Missouri Mince. — Nice for breakfast or dinner. Slice thinly or mince cold roast beef or pot roast, have some fat with it ; put into a small stewpan, with some onion, a little water, pepper, and salt ; boil till the onion is done, and then add some of the gravy of the meat to it and the sliced meat; do not let it boil, have small hot dish^ with bits of bread ready and pour the mince into it, but first mix a large spoonful of vinegar with it. Gaunelon of Beef. — Chop the remains of cold beef into small pieces with a small quantity of\onions, two eggs lightly beaten, with salt to taste. Add any gravy you iiiay have, or a little rich broth left 206 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. over- from dinner. Roll pie crust into oblong sheets, place meat on it and roll. Close the ends with a cap of pastry, put in a hot oven and brown.- Sliced Beef, or Other Meat. — Melt 1 ounce of butter with a spoonful of flour till smooth, dilute it gradually with half a pint of boiling stock, and stir it over the fire till thick ; then stir into it a tea- spoonful t)f made mustard, a teaspoonful of catsup, and ^^ little pep- per; let this all get thoroughly hot. Meanwhile cut some nice shces The Old "Way. The New Way. s - . . oF 'beef or mutton, or any brown meat, lay these in the sauce, and let them get thoroughly hot, but without boiling. Dish this neatly and garnish with little heaps of pickles and croutons of fried bread. Beef a la Hamburg. — Take the Hamburg patties (Hamburg steak) left from dinner and put them in hot water on the stove and • let them boil 10 minutes, stirring so as to break them apart thin ; skim out the "meat and thicken with flour, and season with salt, pepper, and butter ; let that come to aTboil and then turn on the beef; it is a very nice dish and not expensive, and is much used in both cily and country at the present time. HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 207 Beef Olives. — Cut the remains of cold roast beef into nice slices; crack the bones and stew them in a little water for an hour, with a dash of pepper and salt, then strain. Prepare a force-meat as follows: To every teacupful of grated bread add a small, finely-phopped onion, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Moisten each slice of beef with a little gravy, cover with force-meat, roll rather tightly, and skewer. Place in a stew-pan, pour over the stock made from the bones, cover closely and simmer for an hour; then take up carefully, remove the skewers, thicken the gravy with a little blended flour, which pour over the olives and serve. Beef Cakes. — Mince the meat very fine. Broil and mash pota- toes equal to one-third the quantity of the meat, mix them together thoroughly, season with pepper and a few sprigs of parsley minced. Add the beaten yolk of one egg to bind it. Wash and flour your hands. Make the mince into cakes about the size round of the top of a teacup, and fry them a nice brown in hot butter or beef drippings. Serve on a napkin with a garnish of fried celery. Western Scallop. — Bits of beef (steak, boiled or roast) chopped fine, and cold mashed potatoes seasoned well. Place a layer at the bottom of a dish, then a layer of the meat, another layer of potato, and continue alternately until the dish is filled. Strew bread or cracker crumbs upon it, moisten with hot milk in which a little butter has been melted, and bake half an hour. Cold Meat and Tomatoes.-^Cut cold roast beef or mutton into thin slices ; dip each slice into flour, and dust with salt, pepper, and sweet herbs — ^thyme is very nice ; lay the slices into a deep dish and cover with gravy ; pour over a pint of stewed tomatoes to a 2 quart dish of meat ; add water to fill the dish, cover, and bake 2 or 3 hours. Cold Beef and Potato Scallop. — ^Take cold beef or veal, chop and season as for hash. Have ready mashed potatoes, seasoned as for table. Put in a shallow dish, first a layer of meat, then potatoes, until all is used. Smooth over the top of the potatoes. Make little holes. Fill them with pieces of butter. Bake until a nice brown. Frizzled Corned Beef. — Chop pieces of boiled corned beef, heat in the spider with some sweet milk, thicken with a little flour wet> in cold milk, and when done pour into a deep dish in which is a piece of butter and 1 or more eggs, according to how much meat and milk 208 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC you have, beating the egg as you pour the hot liquid on to it Nice with baked potatoes. Irish Stew. — Cut the remains of cold roast beef into pieces about an inch square, crack the bones and put both beef and bones into a stew-pan, with any cold gravy that may be left, half a carrot sliced into rings, a small piece of turnip cut into dice, a finely chopped onion, 2 or 3 cloves (when the flavor is liked), and salt and pepper to taste. Barely cover the whole with water, put on the lid, and stew gently for an hour ; then add a quantity of potatoes which have been pre- viously peeled and cut into pieces (not too small); boil until the po- tatoes are cooked, Dish and serve. Another very nice dish may be made by preparing the meat as in the above recipe, but instead of adding the potatoes, thicken with a little flour. Make a wall of mashed potatoes in a dish, line with chopped carrots and turnips, Brussels sprouts or mashed parsnips. Pour the stew, after removing bones, into the center and serve. Bubble and Squeak.-^Slice cold corn beef thin, season with pep- per; then Saute with a little butter in a frying-pan. Brown some cold boiled cabbage in a frying-pan. Then make alternate layers in a well-buttered scallop dish, having the first and last layers of beef. Over this pour a sauce of melted butter, sliced cucumber pickle, and & bit of minced onion. Bake, and serve hot. Fricasseed Beef. — Cut cold roast beef in small pieces. Put in a stew-pan with lump of butter size of a walnut, and some finely minced onion. Season with salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little curry powder. Cover with water, and simmer 15 minutes. Thicken with a little flour, if necessary. Serve hot. Gottagpe Pie. — ^A good recipe for using cold meat : Take cold meat scraps. Chop fine, with a small onion, pinch of salt, and a little pepper. Place the meat in a deep dish, moistened with gravy or a little butter dissolved in boiling water. Boil and mash enough pota- toes to make a thick cover over the meat. Fake a light brown. Put a few bits of better over the potatoes before putting them into the «}ven. Veal and Ham Pie. — Cut about 1}^ pounds of veal into thin slices, as also a quarter of a pound of boiled ham; season the yeal highly with pepper and salt, with which cover the bottom of the dish ; lay upon this a few slices of ham,jflien the remainder of the veal, HASHES, COI.D MEATS, ETC. 209 finishing with the remainder of the ham; add a wineglassful of water. Cover with a good paste, and bake. A bay leaf is an addition. Beefsteak Pie. — Cut cold beefsteak or other cold beef in small pieces. Peel and slice an equal amount of raw potatoes. Take a deep dish ; put in a layer of potatoes, then one of meat, and so on until the dish Is filled. Season. Pour in a cupful of hot water with a small lump of butter dissolved in it, or a cupful of milk. Cover with a plain crust and bake 1 hour. A crust of mashed potatoes may may be used instead, dotting the top with bits of butter. 'Gravy for Hasbes. — Break the bones of any cooked joint, and put them into a saucepan with any spare cuttings of meat you may have. Add a little pepper, salt, one-half a h6ad of celery and a bou- quet of sweet herbs. Sufficient water to cover, simmer 2 hours. Cut a small onion into slices, fry it in a little butter, add it to the gravy and let it boil 15 minutes. Strain it into another stewpan, with 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut catsup and a piece of butter rolled in flour ; boil it up and it will be ready for the meat. Com Beef Hash. — Chop equal parts of corned beef and cold boiled potatoes separately until fairly fine. Mix thoroughly, but lightly. Heat through and brown slightly. Moisten with gravy or boiling water and a little butter. Hashed Beef. — ^Three cupfuls of cold beef or veal- hashed fine, first freeing from sinew and skin. Mince 1 good-sized onion; put in the frying pan with 1 tablespoonful of butter ; when beginning to color lightly add the meat. Season with salt and pepper; add a little powdered sage or thyme if liked. Moisten with boiling water, making whatever consistency is liked. Serve hot with buttered toast. Hash with Baw Potatoes. — ^This is very convenient when no cold potatoes are handy, besides many people prefer it to hash made with potatoes already cooked. Chop the raw potatoes (first peeling) very fine ; put them, together with the minced meat, into a frying pan containing boiling water and butter. Season, and kt cook until the potatoes are soft, adding boiling water from time t9 time as it is needed. Let cook down until quite d^y, browning slightly, but do not burn. This makes a nice dish for a home dinner. Baked Hash. — Mince fine any pieces of cold cooked meat. To every pint of meat add 1 cup of bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, a sprig of parsley chopped, a little chopped onion (if the flavor COOK— 14 210 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETG. is not disliked), a teaspoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, and a sea- soning of pepper and salt. Add sufficient gravy to moisten it thor- oughly, but not enough to make it sloppy. Just make it warm over the fire, mix well, and bake it in a hot oven 20 minutes. Nice for a home dinner. Hash with Bread. — A good way to use up stale bread is to crumb it and mix with equal portions of finely-chopped cooked meat. Season with salt, pepper and onion juice, or minced onions. Moisten with milk and bake in a moderate oven till delicate brown. Creamed Hash. — Chop mutton, Veal or beef as fine as for hash; fry for a few moments in salt pork drippings. Take from the fire, and, in the same frying pan, make a rich cream gravy, if cream is a possibility; if not, use milk, thick- ening it with corn-starch, and add- ing a generous lump of butter. Pour half of the gravy into a pan over the fire; thin it with hot water; dip in it slices of well- I browned toast ; lay ;the moistened 'toast upon a flat dish and set it in a warm place. Into the thick cream gravy put the minced meat; cook it 5 minutes; then spread it upon the toast. Ap|>I« Hash. — Two or 3 tart apples sliced ; put in a frying pan with a little water and butter ; cover and let cook a few minutes. Then put in hashed meat and potatoes. Season to taste; cover, and let cook until the apples are soft. Hashed Meat on Toast. — ^Two cupfuls ofed ham, then macaroni, and so on until dish is nearly full; roll cracker fine, or crumbs, cover HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 213 top of dish and place over that thin slices of cheese. Bake for half an hour. Ham on Potatoea. — Chop bits of cold broiled or boiled ham very fine ; cut cold boiled potatoes into thick, even slices and fry until nicely browned on both sides ; lay on a hot platter and season with pepper and salt and bits of butter ; between each layer sprinkle a little of the chopped ham and set in the oven to heat through. Ham Patties. — Take scraps of ham that are left over, and with one good-sized onion, chopped fine, for 1 ppund of chopped ham, add 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful of dry musfcird, a little pepper. Make up into balls and fry. Ham and Tomatoes^ — ^A savory breakfast dish is made from ripe tomatoes and a little cold boiled or broiled ham. Chop the ham fine, and use from a half-cup to a cupful, and put it in a saucepan with > three firm tomatoes peeled and cut in slices. Add a half-tablespoon- ful of butter, and cook a few minutes, then add 2 raw^ eggs. Mix thoroughly, and cook until the eggs are set ; season with red pepper, and serve on well-browned toast, sprinkled with chopped parsley, if parsley is liked. Scalloped Ham. — Beat 1 egg with 1 tablespoonful of melted butter ; chop bits of cold cooked ham ; butter a dish or pan, and lay in it a layer of cold boiled and sliced potatoes, sprinkle them with pepper and salt, then put a layer of the ham, another of potatoes, and so on till the dish be full, finishing with the potatoes. Pour over .this half a pint of milk, stand the dish in the oven and bake quickly. Two or three kinds of meat remnants can be u^ed at the same time in this dish, and any kind of meat can be used instead of ham. Deviled Ham. — Fry slices of cold ham. Keep warm while stir- ring in the gravy 4'tablespoonfuls of vinegar mixed with 1 teaspoon- ful of mustard, 1 teaspoonful of sugar, and half teaspoonful of catsup. Let boil up and turn over the ham. Minced Mutton or Lamb. — Cut the meat into nice square pieces, and stew them for an hour, then strain off the stock and add to it 1 large Spanish onion, cut not too finely; simmer for 20 minutes, then add 1 pint of new milk, with seasoning to taste, thicken with 2 tea- spoonfuls 6f blended flour, add the meat and allow to get thoroughly hot, but do not boil. Pour into a deep dish and serve with mashed potatoes. Veal can be minced in the same manner. 214 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. Haricot of Mutton. — ^Take cold mutton, cut into slices and lay in a deep saucepan, then put in 1 onion, 1 small turnip, 2 potatoes, 1 carrot, all cut into small pieces. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper. Cover with cold water and boil slowly 1 hour, then add 2 spoons of flour mixed with cold water and boil 1 hour longer. Turn on to a platter, around the edge of which arrange alternately little piles of mashed potato and boiled rice, with a tiny sprig of parsley, between each, as a garnish. Frizzled Mutton. — This is taken from the left-overs of the mutton of the day before. Shave it in very thin slices, and puf a tablespoon- ful of butter into a frying pan, put in the slices, and toss them for a moment, add a tablespoonful of flour, mix, pour over a half pint of milk, bring to a boiling point, and serve. With this course serve the buckwheat cakes. Cold Sliced Mutton. — Cut thin slices from the cold mutton,-trim free from gristle and fat. Arrange on a dish, garnish with cress and currant jelly. liamb Pie. — Cut cold lamb in slices. Season lightly. Alternate slices of cold potatoes with the lamb. Moisten with strong stock in which an onion has been boiled. Put pastry on sides and top of pan. Bake 20 or 30 minutes. _^Haslied Mutton. — Cut cold mutton in bits. If rare so anuch better. Boil the bones and r6ugh trimmings of the meat in enough water to cover, strain the gravy into a sauce pan, add the mutton and any left-over cold vegetables, such as carrots, turnips or potatoes, first slicing, together with a little chopped onion. A ripe tomato sliced in is an improvement. Let simmer and finally boil up. Any kind of meat can be served in same manner. If oodles and Meat Stew.-^Cut any kind of cold meat in mod- erately small pieces, add gravy, soup stock or boiling water and butter, sufficient to make about a quart of liquor, and to this add either noodles or duinplings, and the result will be a dish for dinner that all will relish. - Savory Tongue. — Cut the tongue in very thin slices after peeling it, and then in very small bits. Put a layer of thick tomato sauce in the bottom of the dish, and fill it up with bits of tongue. Add a mere pinch of cayenne pepper, a pinch of minced parsley and also of aainced onion. Put a layer of the tomato sauce on top. Sprinkle a HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 215 few fine bread crumbs over the dish and bake in a hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes. If onion is not liked, omit. Veal Terrapin. — Odds and ends of mutton, veal, pork, beef, liver, or all together: cut into dice, size of peas; liver is much the best; add to the dice 1 small tablespoon of flour, 1 tablespoon made mustard, one- fourth teaspoon cay- enne, one-fourth tea- spoon clove ; add gravy and a scant cup of boiling water ; keep well covered; put where it will not boil, but be just at the boiling point; just before serving add 2 chopped hard- boiled eggs, butter ^^"^^ Hopper for Chopping Meats. size of an egg, wine-glass of cider or vinegar, serve with slices of lemon. Deviled CMcken. — Chop very fine any pieces of cold cooked chicken that may be left. To every pint of this meat allow one-half pint of cream, a tablespoonful of buttef, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 3 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, one- quarter nutmeg, grated. Salt and cayenne to taste.' Put the butter in a frying-pan to melt ; then add the bread-crumbs, cream, chicken , and seasoning. Stir over the fire until it boils ; then add the hard- boiled eggs chopped very fine. Fill paper cases or individual dishes with this mixture, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs and brown in a quick oven. > Scalloped Turkey. — Chop the remains of chicken or turkey, put a layer of bread-crumbs in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of oysters, a layer of, chopped turkey or chicken, then another layer of bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and so on, until you have used all up. Have the top layer crumbs. Pour over all a cream sauce (half pint), and bake in a moderately quick oven 25 minutes. If there is any gravy thin it and pour over, instead of cream sauce. 216 HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. Fricassee of Cold Boast Fowl. — Take the remnants of 2 roasted fowls and cut them up. Put all the trimmings and bones of the legs into a stew-pan, with the peel of half a lemon, a bouquet of sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt and about a pint of water. Let stew gently until reduced to half the quantity; Cut the remainder of the fowl into joints, strain the gravy and put in the fowl. When thoroughly hot beat up an egg, mix with a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir it gradually into the gravy. Make it very hot, but do not let it boil. Milk can be used instead of cream. If eggs are not convenient^ thicken with a little corn-starch blended with a little cold water. Petits Pains. — ^These can be made of fish or any kind of white meat. Cut into small bits the remainders of some cold veal or chicken, and mix with the following sauce : Boil a pint of milk with a shred of onion and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour mixed with a little cold milk. Have ready 6 or 8 quite small dinner rolls, cut off the tops and scoop out most of the crumb, butter the inside of the rolls, and when the pre- pared mixture is cold, fill them with it. Arrange on a dish and gar- nish with parsley.. ^ Fish Flakes. — ^Two cupfuls of cold cooked, nicely-flaked fish. Make the following sauce : Roll a piece of butter; the size of an egg, thoroughly in flour, and dissolve in one-half cupful of hot water in a sauce-pan ; add 1 dessert-speonful each of mixed mustard and pep- per sauce, and 1 cupful of cream or rich milk; put in the fish flakes, heat well and serve ; or pour in a buttered dish, cover thickly with bread-crumbs, dot with bits of butter and brown the top in the oven. A very nice way of serving remnants of fish. Turbot a la Creme. — ^Take the left-over bits of fish from dinner, with 2 silver forks pick it to pieces ; remove all skin and bone. Dress- ing — One quart of milk, one-half onion, pinch of thyme, a little pars- ley ; let simmer slowly to extract! the flavor ; add 2 tablespoons of flour, 2 tablespoons of butter. Strainthrough a hair-sieve on to the beaten yolks of 3 eggs ; beat into half the dressing the fish ; put into a buttered baking-dish ; sprinkle over top grated bread-crumbs and a little grated cheese ; bake in a quick oven until lightly browned on top. Wonders. — Take any bits of cold meat and chop fine; take half as much potatoes as meat and the same of bread, broken fine; HASHES, COLD MEATS, ETC. 217 moisten the bread with hot water ; a good tablespoon of flour made into a smooth paste ; 2 or 3 eggs beaten well, and any cold gravies that' may be left over ; season well ; beat them all together for 5 minutes ; drop from the spoon into a hot, greased spider. Liunclieon Salad (Boiled Meat). — Soup meat may be utilized in numberless savory ways. Chopped fine and seasoned with salt, cloves, pepper, vinegar and a little onion and lemon juice, it makes a nice salad for luncheon. A good breakfast dish may be made by stewing the left-over soup meat in a little tomato catsup and serving on slices of buttered toast. Salmi of Chicken. — ^Take minced cold chicken and moisten well with drawn butter, using celery, salt and pepper for seasoning and heating the whole. Cover the bottom of the baking-dish with bread crumbs ; add to the chicken a beaten egg, and lemon juice to flavor, and pour into the dish. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, together with pieces of butter, and bake to a nice brown. The baking-dish should be covered. Chicken Dumplings.— Mince remnants of cold chicken, and put, with seasoning, and one-half cupful of liquor from boiled chickens or other soup stock, into a sauce-pan. Let boil gently. Thicken with 1 tablespoonful of flour wet in a little cold water. Afterward add 1 beaten egg. Stir until it thickens. Pour out and let cool. - Flour the hands and make into balls. Roll in cracker-dust ; dip in beaten egg ; then dip again in bread-crumbs and fry in hot lard. Deviled Cold Meat. — Cut cold meat into dice. Put a scant tablespoonful of butter into a frying-pan ; when hot add 2 tablespoon- fuls of stale bread-crumbs; fry until brown; add the meat — ^a pint, a half teaspoonful of dry mustard, a dash of cayenne and a sprinkling of salt. When the meat is thoroughly heated, add the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs mashed fine, a half cup of stock, or water ; let boil up once, and serve very hot. Buttered toast should be served with it. Ham Mince withlEggs. — Mix 2 cupfuls of cracker-crumbs with an equal amount of finely-minced, lean boiled ham. Moisten with a little hot water, with a small piece of butter dissolved in it. Put this mixture in a broad, shallow baking-dish. Make depressions in it, and in each of these break an egg. Bake until the eggs are cooked Any other meat hash may be served the same way. " ^SS^ ^^^t '^th a knife will cause sorrow and strife; ^, Beat with a spoon will make heavy soon; Beat with a fork will make light as a cork" In shaking an egg, if it makes sound, it is not a good egg, and should be rejected. The water test consists in putting them in water deep enough to cover ; the "good eggs" will lie flat at the bottom, while the "bad eggs" will stand up- right, like many other unsound things in the world. The "candling" process consists in looking through the egg at a light, or holding it between you and the sun. If it shows up clear and spotless, so that the yolk can be perceived, it is good ; otherwise it is not. " They say, "when 4 ounces of salt are dissolved in 40 ounces of water, an egg a day old will sink to the bottom ; one 2 days' old will nearly reach the bottom ; three days' old will float near the top, and 5 or more days old will project above the surface more and more as it becomes older. ,Eggs should be broken separately into a saucer or cup, as one bad one will spoil all the others. Packings Eggs. — Dry packing has many advocates. It consists simply in packing eggs in salt, putting the small end downward, and seeing that the eggs do not touch each other.- Bran and saw-dust are also used. The tops must be covered thickly, and the whole set away in a cool, dark place. Before packing in this way, some smear the shells with butter or lard. Nail on the cover of the box, and keep in a' cool place. When wanted for use take off the bottom cover so as to use the eggs packed first. Be sure the eggs are clean when packing, and the salt can be used over again. Eggs packed for eight months in this manner have been found perfectly fresh. Set the boxes or kegs uppn sticks that there may be a free circulation of air. Brine for Eggs. — ^One pint of fresh, air-slaked lime, 1 pint of salt, 4 gallons pf water. Rubb the eggs with lard, or dip in melted tallow, and put in this brine, small end down. Put in the eggs in such quan- tities as may be convenient. This amount of brine will cover 200 218 EGGS. - 219 eggs. The last of July or first of August is a good time to begin packing. Poaclied Eggs. — Poached is one of the most delicate and digesti- ble ways to cook an egg. The slightly salted water should be at the boiling point, but not boiling. That tears the white to pieces and makes " rags " of it. The egg broken first in a saucer or cup, should be slid easily in, and the hot water heaped over the yolk as it cooks, to hasten its covering while it is still soft. A flat perforated cream skimmer is the' ' best utensil to take out the egg, and it should reach the table on a square of hot toast from which the crusts are cut, and which has been dipped Egg Poacher. in hot water and buttered, and on a hot plate, 30 seconds from the moment of leaving the water. French cooks poach eggs in a ball by giving the water a rapid rotary motion with a fork and dropping the egg in the centre of this swirl. If toast is not used, take up the eggs on a hot platter. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, and dot with bits of butter. A tablespoonful of vinegar in the water helps the salt to set the whites quickly. Egg poachers are sold that can be buttered and have 1 egg dropped in each compartment, and then half a dozen at a time can be immersed in the boiling water, thus keeping them in shape. In the absence of these drop muffin-rings, buttered, in J:hc bottom of the same pan, and break an egg in each one. By the exercise of a little care, however, the eggs can be nicely poached without any of these aids. Poached Eggs with Gravy. — Poach as above ; lay each egg on a slice of softened, buttered toast, and turn a hot gravy over the whole. Eggs Boiled in the Shell. — Have in a saucepan as much hard boiling water as will surely cover the eggs when put in. In this man- ner they will cook evenly. Put them in all at the same time, if possi- ble, leave them in 3 minutes and a half. Put them on the dish cov- ered with a folded napkin, as, if they are eaten one by one in the shell, those left in the dish will in this manner be kept warm. Eggs must, be eaten as soon as cooked. Boiling 3 minutes leaves them very soft; 5 minutes will harden the white. Some authorities recommend put- ting the eggs in a saucepan and pouring boiling water over them. Cover the dish tight, and set back where the water will keep hot, but 220 EGGS. not boil. Let it stand 10 minutes. The effect is quite different from that produced by boiling, both the flavor and texture jof the egg be- ing vastly superior to an egg boiled in the usual manner. Fried Eggs. — Melt a spoonful of butter in a frying-pan, and let it get hot without coloring ; slip into this four eggs, broken separately in a saucer, and baste them with the butter until the whites begin to set. Some very good cooks put into the pan a few drops of olive (jil instead of butter, and the moment the egg is " set," turn it quickly over with a pancake turner, and let it just "set" on the other side. A very little butter can be used in the same way. The eggs can be laid on a folded napkin, to absorb every particle of fat. Smothered Eggs. — Put not quite as much hot butter and lard, or ham dripping, in a pan as for frying eggs in the ordinary way. Break the eggs to be used on a plate, and when the fat is hot slip them into the frying-pan evenly, not on one side, or the grease will slip out from under, and they will stick to the pan. Sprinkle with pepper and salt. Pour over them a teacupful of boiling water. Cover quickly with a close fitting lid. Let them steam 4 or 5 minutes, or more, according to the degree of hardness required. They will be found nicely whitened over the top, like eggs that have ^en dropped in boiUng water, and much more palatable than those poached without fat. Steamed Eggs. — Butter a deep pie tin, and break carefully into it as many eggs.as are needed. Sprinkle them with pepper, salt and bits of butter ; place in a steameir over boiling water until done. This will be found better than poaching them, especially if cooked for an invalid, as they are lighter and more tender. They may be steamed thus in individual patty pans, and will keep in better shape. Grlddled Eggs. — Heat the griddle almost as much as for griddle cakes. Butter it lightly and place upon it as many eggs as you desire to cook. When they become slightly browned, turn them with a cake turner. They will get sufficiently cooked in about a minute and a half. This is a delicate way of frying eggs. Baked Eggs.— Break the eggs carefully intp a buttered dish. Sprinkle wi*h pepper and salt. Put a bit of butter on each, and bake until the whites are well set. They may also be broken into indiv> dual egg cases, or into buttered gem tins, seasoned and baked. A great variety of flavors can be given baked eggs. Two drops o^ EGGS. 221 lemon juice, or a quarter of a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, will change the flavor of the egg. A little boiled ham, chopped fine, or grated cheese, will give still other flavors. Creamed Eggs. — Boil some eggs hard, cut them in slices, and season each slice with a little pepper, salt and grated nutmeg. Lay the slices on a dish, cover with a hot drawn butter sauce, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve Ten to 12 niinutes will boil eggs hard enough to slice. Boiled Eggs with Cream Sauce. — Boil eggs enough for the family, 20 minutes ; split them lengthwise, put them in a deep dish and pour over cream sauce. Cream Sauce for Boiled Eggs. — One pint of cream or rich milk; for cream 1 heaping tablespoon of butter, you must use twice as much butter if you use milk ; 1 generous tablespoon of flour ; salt and white pepper to taste; let cream come to a boil, have the flour mixed smoothly with half a cup of cold cream reserved from the pint ; stir it into the boiling cream and boil 3 minutes ; pour over the eggs and serve. Scrambled Eggs. — For 5 persons take 8 eggs, beat them well, then add 8 tablespoonfuls of milk and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. Put 1 tablespoonful of butter in the frying-pan, and when it is hot pour in the eggs, stir carefully from the bottom until they thicken. They should be taken from the fire while still soft enough to run, as they cook a few seconds longer, and even retain a hardening heat on their way to the table, all of which must be allowed for. Cream may be used instead of milk. Scrambled Eggs with Bacon. — Fry thin strips of bacon until almost done, then add 8 or 10 well-beaten eggs, seasoned with pep- per ; 4 tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook all together. Serve hot. Scalloped Eggs. — Place a layer, of stale bread crumbs in the bot- , tom of a buttered dish, and pour over enough sweet cream to moisten. Slice hard-boiled eggs, and put a layer with plentiful dots of butter, and a httle salt and pepper. Continue alternate layers till the dish is full. Sift crumbs over the top, dot with bits of butter, and set in the oven to bake. Eggs in Scallop Shells. — Have some ham or tongue chopped very fine ; add to it a few bread crumbs, pepper, chopped parsley and some melted butter. Moisten with milk to make a soft paste, and 222 EGGS. half-fill some -patty pans or scallop shells with the mixture. BreaK an egg carefully on each, and put a pinch of salt on them and sprinkle, cracker dust oyer this. Place the shells in a pan, and put in a mod- erate oven and bake until the white is set. Columbus Eggs. — Peel the shells from a dozen hard-boiled eggs, and cut each egg in two around the centre, cutting off also a little piece from one end so that they can stand on end as did the famous egg which Columbus handled; pulverize the yolks and mix with some finely minced chicken, smoked tongue or lean ham ; moistening with, a little fresh butter or vinegar, and seasoning to the -taste with salt, pepper and mustard. Fill with this the empty whites, taking care not to break them ; press the two parts together and stand on a plat- ter so that they will have the appearance of eggs that have not been dissected. The filling which remains over and above the capacity of the whites of the eggs to accommodate may be made into a dressing, by adding a little vinegar to it and pouring over the eggs. If no sauce is used, set each egg in one of the inside leaves of lettuce. Egg Baskets. — Boil eggs hard, shell and cut neatly in half. Re- move the yolks and rub them' to a paste with melted butter, pepper' and salt. Chop very fine the meat of cold fowl,"ham, dried beef or veal, and mix with the egg paste. Cut off a slice from the hollow white to make them stand, fill with the paste, arrange close together on a flat dish and pour over them a gravy heated boiling hot, or cream sauce. If to be served with cold meats, omit the gravy and garnish with parsley. Nice for lunch or parties. Potted ham and tongue that comes put up in small tins also make a very nice force-meat for stuffing eggs. After the eggs are filled some fasten together the two halves with Japanese toothpicks, roll in bread crumbs and fry- a light brown, but this is not necessary. Stuffed Eggs. — Cut 6 hard-boiled eggs in two, lengthwise, and, removing the yolks, chop them fine, then add 2 teaspoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of cream, and very little finely-choppeid onion ; salt and pepper to taste ; mix all together, and, after filling the white of the egg with the mixture, put them together with Japanese toothpicks. Sala;d EggStT-Boil 6 eggs 20 minutes. Drop them into cold water before removing the shells. Cut into halves, remove the yolks and rub smooth with 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of musr tard and salt. Add vinegar until soft, and put back into the whites again. EGGS. , 223 Fricasseed Eggs. — Boil 6 eggs for 15 minutes. Remove the shells, take out the yolks, cut the whites into dice. Put a teaspoon* ful of butter in a frying pan, and set on the fire to melt. Add a tablespoonful of fltour, stir until brown, thin with a teacupful of cream, season with salt and pepper. Put in the whites of the eggs, stir over the fire until it comes to a boil, add the yolks ; let stand 1 minute and serve very hot. Milk can be used instead of egg. Poached Eggs, Spanish Style.— 'Heat an earthen pan slowly, and melt in it a tablespoonful of butter ; add a teaspoonful of salt, a smaller quantity of pepper, and a small onion minced very fine ; or, instead of the onion, use parsley and sweet herbs or a combincition of all together. Drop in the eggs 1 at a time; do not stir, but let them brown a little ; turn carefully and brown on the other side. In Spain and Mexico they are served in the dish in which they are cooked and as hot as possible. Spanish Scrambled Eggs. — Cut Up 2 fresh tomatoes with half an onion chopped very fine. Cook with a little butter and pepper and salt till the onion is cooked, but not browned. Add 4 beaten eggs, and stir constantly till the eggs are well set. Serve with little pieces of fried bread around the dish. Egg Wests. — Beat whites of 4 eggs stiff. Toast 4 slices of bread, dip them quickly in hot water, and spread lightly with butter. Pile the whites on toast in shape of nest ; place a yolk in the centre of each, and bake 3 minutes. Season whites with a little salt before beating. Very nice. Sensible Egg Whip. Pickled Eggs. — Boil hard, remove the shell and cover with boil- ing hot vinegar. Let it stand 12 hours, and they are ready for use. Some cut the eggs in halves lengthwise, Nice for picnics, lunch, etc. Curried Eggs. — Boil 4 eggs half an hour, remove the shells and slice eggs into a shallow dish ; fry 1 teaspoonful of chopped onion in a tablespoonful of butter, being careful not to burn ; add 1 heaping tablespoonful of flour and one-half tablespoonful of curry powder, pour on slowly 1 cup of milk, season with salt i and pepper and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, simmer until onions are soft, then pour the mixture over the sliced eggs, cover with a layer ot bread crumbs, brown in the oven and serve hot. 224 EGGS. Soft Egff Curry. — Melt 1}4 ounces of butter in a pan with a Amall onion cut into rings; as the latter browns add ateaspoonful of curry powder. Beat gradually, stirring occasionally for nearly an hour ; then add 3 tablespoonfuls of milk and a good pinch of minced parsley. Stir for 2 or 3 minutes and add the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Just before serving add the whites beaten quite stiff. DeTiled Eggrs. — Remove the shells from hard-boiled eggs ; cut about one-third from the small end of each. Take out the yolks, mash with the pieces of whites and season highly with salt, pepper, mustard, a tablespoonful of melted butter (salad oil if preferred), and a little vinegar. Mix thoroughly and fill into the cavities left by the yolks. Fill it all in, heaping each egg up well. Set each one on a lettuce leaf, and stand close together on a pretty flat dish. Very ornamental for lunch or evening party. Cut off a slice from the whites that they may stand firmly. Egg Vermicelli.— Boil .6 eggs 20 minutes. Make 1 pint of eream sauce, to which add whites of eggs, cut up in fine pieces. Place 6 slices of toast on a platter, on which pour the cream sauce nicely seasoned. Rub yolk» through a strainer over the sauce and garnish with parsley. Cupped Eggs. — f'*it a Spoonful of good, highly-seasoned brown gravy into each cup, and set the cups in a saucepan of boiling water. When the gravy has become thoroughly heated drop a fresh egg into each cup. Take off the saucepan and cover it "until the eggs are tenderly cooked, put on pepper and salt and serve on a hot platter, covered with a napkin. Breakfatit Custards. — Butter 6 custard cups and fill lightly with soft bread crUmbs and any nice cold meat, chopped fine, with plenty of savory seasoning, such as the family like, half and half. Beat 3 eggs; add 1 cupful milk, pour into the cups, using more milk if required; set the cups in a pan of water and bake (or steam) until firm in the centre. Serve in the cups, or turn out on a platter.. These savory custards are delicious made entirely out of bread crumbs and seasonings, omitting the meat ; Sour Eggs (German Style). — One tablespoonful butter, 1 table- spoonful flour stirred into the butter in a hot saucepan until well browned, half teacup vinegar filled up with water. Salt and pepper to taste. Pour into the browned flour and let boil up. Break the EGGS. 225 eggs in, one at a time, until the pan is full. Baste the top with this gravy until the eggs are cooked, either hard or soil, according to the taste. Honeycomb Eggs.— We have an excellent recipe for a breakfast dish of eggs, which is as follows : Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a dish, set in the oven to heat. Break six eggs into a bowl; add one-third teacupful sweet cream, heat well; add a little salt. Pour into the hot dish with the butter; bake in a hot oven about 16 minutes, or until it is all light and like honeycomb. Eggs a la Mode. — Soak a pint of bread crumbs in a pint of milk. Beat 8 eggs very light, add the soaked bread crumbs, and heat 5 minutes. Have ready a saucepan In which are heated 2 tablespoonfuls of butter ; pour in the mixture, season with salt and pepper ; stir briskly for 3 minutes ; serve on squares of buttered toast. Egga on Bice. — Butter a baking dish and fill it three-quarters full" of cold rice which was seasoned with salt and butter when boiled. Make as many depressions in the rice as there are persons to be served. Break an egg into each depression, sprinkle with salt and strew with bits of butter. Bake until the eggs are set. Serve hot. Ham and Eggs Baked. — Half pound of cracker or bread crumbs and half pound of lean, minced meat, mix, moisten with a little water and butter. Put the mixture in a broad shallow baking dish. Make little depressions in it, and break an egg in each deprejssion. Bake a pale brown in a hot oven. Minced Eggs. — Chop up 4 or 5 hard-boiled, not too fine. Put over the fire in a suitable dish a cupful of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper, and some savory chopped fine. When this comes to a boil, thicken with a tablespoonful of floiir rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. When it is cooked smooth like cream, put in the eggs, stir until heated through, and serve. Any particular flavor may be given to this dish by adding minced mushrooms, truffles catsup, essence of shrimps, etc. Beauregard Eggs. — Five eggs, 1 tablespoon of corn starch, 5 squares of toast, half pint of milk, a lump of butter the size of a wal- nut, salt and pepper to taste. Cover the eggs with boiling water and boil for 20 minutes. Take off their shells, chop the whites fine and rub the yolks through a sieve. Do not mix them. Now put the milk on to boil, rub tiie butter and corn-starch together, and add to COOK— 16 226 EGGS. the boiling milk. Now add the whites, salt and pepper. Put the toast on a hot dish, cover it with a layer of this white sauce, then the layer of the yolks, then the remainder of the whites. Sprinkle the top with a little salt and pepper. Stand in the oven for a minute or two and serve. Breaded Eggs. — Boil hard and cut in round, thick slices. Sea- son with pepper and-salt. Dip each in beaten raw egg, then in fine bread crumbs and fry in hot butter. Drain free from grease, and serve with a sauce made by boiling up together a cup of broth, a half teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper, and adding 3 tablespoonfuls of cream. Omelets. A separate pan should be kept for omelets, that it may be always, bright and smooth, and turn easily. If you have no omelet-pan, or no convenience for drying the omelet in the oven, use a smooth iron^ spider or frying-pan with a tin cover, and double the quantities given. Heat the pan and cover very hot* Butter the pan, turn in the mix- ture, cover it, and place on the back of the stove for 5 minutes, or till firm. Fold as usual. Omelets should be only slightly browned. A pinch of powdered sugar and another of corn-starch, beaten in with the yolks of eggs, will keep an omelet from collapsing. A very little baking-powder (about half a teaspoonful to a 6-egg omelet), renders it less likely to fall. Omelets should be served and eaten immediately. Omelet, Plain. — Break all the eggs in one dish. To every 3 eggs put 1 tablespoonful of cold water or rnilk. Season with pepper and salt. Put a tablespoonful of butter in pan. When it is very hot turn in the eggs. When it is cooked on one side, put the pan in the oven to brown the other. Or when the first side is done, loosen, place a plate over it and turn the omelet out upon it. Double it together and serve. May he served miii cream sauce. (See directions.) - Foam Omelet.-^Beat separately the whites and yolks of 6 eggs. Mix the yolks with 6 teaspoonfuls of corn-starch, half a pint of milk; salt and pepper— to taste. Pour on griddle where a little butter has been heated. Have the whites beaten to a stiff froth. When the yolks are set pour the whites on and turn or fold half way over. Serve at once. Parsley Omelet. — Four eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Beat the eggs lightly togethesj «prin- EGGS. 227 kle in the parsley, pepper and salt. Have the butter quite hot in the pan to keep the mixture from burning. As soon as the edges are set, fold over, cook lightly for a moment, turn on a hot dish and serve. A little grated ham may be added if liked. Bread Omelet. — Pour 1 teacup of boiling milk over 1 teacup of bread crumbs. Let stand until soft. Break 6 eggs in bowl. Stir (not beat) till well mixed, then add the bread and milk; mix well; season with salt and pepper and pour into a hot skillet into which a large tablespoonful of butter has been melted. Fry slowly, cut in squares, turn, fry to a delicate brown and serve at once. Milk may be used to soak the crumbs instead of water. Crackers are some- times used instead of bread crumbs. Cheese Omelet. — Beat thoroughly the yolks of 5 eggs, add 5 tablespoonfuls of milk, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. * Then beat the whites very stiff and gently stir them into the yolks. Butter a large spider and heat it, then pour the mixture in, cover tightly and cook slowly until brown on the bottom;, set in the oven a minute to dry the top, then sprinkle one-half cup of cheese on it. Fold together and serve at once. Stir the cheese in with the milk and eggs and cook with the omelet, if desired, instead of just folding. Oyster Omelet. — Take 12 large oysters, 6 eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of butter, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Leave the oysters Whole, drain and fry I lightly in a kittle butter. Keep them hot. When the omelet is done on one side, lay the hot oysters Dover on, and fold the omelet over. Serve on a hot dish. Egg-Beater. Codfish Omelet. — Beat 4 eggs very light, add a small cup of freshened codfish, salt and pepper, and cook in pan with plenty of butter. Fold and place in hot oven 5 minutes. Serve with or with- out cream sauce. Cream Sauce : One pint of rich milk, 1 tablespoonful of corn- starch, 1 tablespoonful of butter. Dissolve the corn-starch in part of the milk. Stir together and let boil up, adding a pinch of salt. Hash Omelet. — Make a fine mince of any kind of cold meat or fowl. Put over the fire with iust enough milk or water to moisten 228 EGGS. slightly, and stir until very hot. In the meantime have the omelet made after any plain i^ule, and as soon as jdone on side, place the hot minced meat over it and fold. A nice economical breakfast or lunch dish. Asparagrns Omelet. — Cut cold, cooked asparagus in inch pieces and set in a covered earthen dish in hot water, to be heated thoroughly through, but not to cook. Season it slightly again. Make a nice omelet with 4 eggs ; put a cupful of the heated asparagus in it; fold it and serve it at once. Make as many omelets as the asparagus requires, but do not attempt to make any larger ones than 4 eggs will make. Tomato Omelet. — Strain one-half can of stewed tomatoes through a fine sieve; mix with 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 4 well- beaten eggs, one-half cupful of milk, salt and pepper to taste, and bake brown, in a buttered pan. Fresh tomatoes can be used by stew- ing a&d beating fine, when the eggs, etc., can be stirred in, in the same proportions. A pinch of soda should be added to the tomatoes to correct the acidity. Potato Omelet. — ^Three eggs beaten separately, 1 cup of cold mashed potatoes, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoonful of flour, a little salt and some chopped parsley; mix and pour into a hot buttered pan, brown it lightly and serve hot. Same as an egg omelet. Cauliflower Omelet. — One cup cold boiled cauliflower, sauce included, chopped into small pieces; 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful corn- starch; beat eggs thoroughly, add cauliflower and cook as other omelets. Cabbage Omelet. — Make same as Cauliflower — either makes a nice side dish. Onion Omelet. — Make a plain omelet, and when ready to turn spread over it a teaspoonful each of chopped onion and minced parsley ; then fold, or, if prepared, mix the minces into the eggs before cooking. Omelet with Peas. — Make plain omelet; just before turning over one-half on other put several spoonfuls of cooked peas in center before omelet is lapped, then serve with peas (without juice) around it. Omelet with Com. — Five eggs, half a cup of milk, quarter cup fine bread crumbs, 1 tablespoon of melted butter; pepper and EGGS. 229 salt to taste. Soak the ci'umbs in milk 10 minutes; beat the eggs very light, yolks and whites separately; stir the soaked crumbs, milk, butter and seasoning into the yolks, and mix the whites in lightly and add a cupful of canned corn. Pour the omelet into a frying pan containing 2 tablespoons of butter, and cook, loosening it constantly from the bottom with a knife to prevent its scorching. Double over and serve at once. Spanish Omelet. — Take 6 eggs, 1 medium-sized tomato, 1 small onion, 1 dash of black pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls of milk, 5 mush- rooms, one-quarter pound of bacon, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt. Cut the bacon into very small pieces and fry until brown ; then add to it the tomato, onion and mushroom chopped fine ; stir and cook 15 minutes. Break the eggs in a bowl and give them 12 vigorous beats with a fork; add to them the salt and pepper. Now- put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a smooth frying pan ; turn it around so as to grease the bottom and sides. When the butter is hot pour in the eggs and shake over a quick fire until they are set. Now quickly pour the iriixture from the frying pan over the omelet, fold it over once, turn out in the center of a heated platter and serve immediately. The mushrooms and tomato can be omitted if wished. Rice Omelet. — One cupful of cold boiled rice, 1 cupful of warm milk, 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, half teaspoonful of salt, mix well and add 3 beaten eggs. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and when it bubbles up pour in the omelet and set the pan in a hot oven. As soon as it is done turn out on a hot dish, fold double, and serve at once. It can be sprinkled thickly with sugar before fold- ing, if wished. Apple Omelet. — An apple omelet is an appetizing luncheon dish or entree at dinner. Stir in a basin two tablespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt and one of sugar, 2 whole eggs, with 2 yolks in addi- tion, and nearly a half pint of milk. Pare, core, quarter and mince 4 good-sized apples. Saute them over a brisk fire in very hot butter, shaking them well, and when they are quite hot through, pour over them the above mixture, making it spread all over the bottom of the pan ; prick with a fork ; add (close to the edges) two tablespoonfuls of butter, melted, and rock the pan vigorously to prevent sticking. When it can be loosened from the pan put it in the oven to brown the top slightly. Slip out on a hot pan and serve hot. 280 EGGS. Peacb Omelet. — Beat together 4 eggs, half a cupful of mifi^ and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Fry and when done spread with peach preserves, fold and serve hot A dessert dish. Strawberry Omelet. — Wash and drain in a colander 1 pipt of strawberries ; put them in k dish with fi half cup of sugar and set, thera aside until the, omelet is made. Ingredients for the omelet : — 6 eggs, 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mixed with half teaspoonful of baking-powder, half teaspopnful of melted butter $nd 1 cup of milk. Stir the yolks, salt, powder and flour together; beat the whites to a stiff froth aiid add the above mixtiire to them, stirring constantly; put a large frying pan or omelet panj with half tablespoon- ful of butter, over the fire; when hot pour in half of the omelet mij^ture; do not stir; as the eggs set slip'abroad- bladed knife under the omelet to prevent burning on the bottom and shake the pan to and fro ; when the under Measuring ^^^^ *^ * ^S^^ brown, set the pan of omelet for a few Glass and ttiin^tes in the oven ; then scatter Jialf the strawberries Egg-beater over the surface; slip the broad-bladed knife under one side of the omelet gnd double in two, inclosing the fruit ; dust over the top with powdered sugar and let it remain in the oven until the next one is baked the same way ; then serve at once. Sufficient for a family of six. Nice for" dessert. Sweet Omelet. — Beat 4 eggs without separsiting. Add 4 table- spoonfuls of warm water and a teaspoonful of butter. Put into a fry- ing-pan a piece of butter the size of a walnut; when hot turn in the eggs, shake until set in the bottom, then, with a limber knife, lift the edge, drain the soft part around and allow to run under. Dust with a very little salt and put in the center 4 tablespoonfuls of jam. Fold over first one side, then the other, and turn on a heated platter. Omelet wltb Jelly. — Beat up 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of butter. Either beat eggs separately or togetheir ; pan must be very hot and greased with melted butter. Turn in the pan; when brown and solid spread jelly over surface and fold, turning over sides and ends as delicately as possible. Set in oven for a few minutes. A dessert dish. All vegetabjes shduld be put in boiling water when set on the stove to cook. Peas, asparagus, potatoes and all deli- cately flavored vegetables should be only covered with water, but those with a strong flavor, like carrots, tur- nips, cabbage, onions and dandelions, sh6uld be. cooked in a generous quantity of boiling water. All green vegetables should be cooked with the cover partially off" the stewpan. It gives them a better color and a more delicious flavor. The average housekeeper is careless as to the time of cooking vegetables, yet a vegetable is as much injured by too much or too littlfe cooking as is a loaf of bread or cake. The water should be kept boilii^ constantly until the vege- tables are done. To let it stop renders them water-soaked and im- pairs the flavor. For time table as to number of mjnutes each vege- table should Cook, see page 233. Seasoning "Vegetables. — Peas and beans, as they are specially lacking in fatty substances,, always require butter in their dressing. Indeed, almost all vegetable foods are deficient in fat and would be more digestible if eaten with butter or oil. Cabbage and lettuce, as they contain alkalies, need an acid condiment, while beets, turnips, squash jmd also beans and peas require the addition of sugar to make up for the sweetness lost in boiling. In cooking greens a ham bone will be found to supply a flavor that can be obtained in no other way, though salt pork is a fairly good substitute. Onion, used discreetly, is a great addition to many vegetable dishes, especially if prepared in the form of salads. A tiny bit of chopped onion added to a potato salad, for instance, will make it far more palatable, while lettuce also profits by a few grated shreds of the same vegetable beaten up in French dressing. , A small handful of salt in the water potatoes are cooked in will render them mealy. Old or poor potatoes are improved by paring and soaking in cold water for some time before boiling. Watery potatoes should have a piece of lime as large as an egg put in the water they are boiled in. Drain, and they will be found dry and mealy. 231 232 VEGETABLES. Asparagus that is young and tender may be cooked by tying in bunches and standing up in boiling water, leaving the tops to cook by steam. Cover the stewpan closely. In this way the tops will not boil to pieces, while the lower part of the stalks is still hard. Silver vegetable dishes, well heated, will keep food warm much longer than china. Use a cloth to wash the potatoes for baking ; it will save the hands. The skins of new pQtatoes can be re- moved more quickly with a stiff vegetable brush than by scrap- ing. In any of the recipes that call for parsley, celery may be substituted -if pre- ferred, and to-many tastes a dash of cay- enne pepper is the finishing touch, and others like, enough Vegetable Parer and Oorer. onjon to make the flavor perceptible, but to get it too strong is worse than to have none at all. Given the basis of the dish, and these little things are simply matters of taste. Never boil potatoes that are to be sliced and cooked again until they are quite as thoroughly done as if meant to be used without the second cooking. Always salt potatoes while boiling. Drain ; when done, remove the cover and shake vigorously in the kettle for a moment and the potato will be lighter and more mealy. Boil fresh, young vegetables in hard water ; a little salt will harden the wafer at once. Boil dried vegetables in soft water ; a little baking soda will soften water, and is useful in freshening and making tender green vegetables that are a little old or not wholly fresh, A little sugar is an improvement to beets, turnips and squash. Canned Vegetables. — Canned vegetables, such as peas, beans, etc., are safer to be opened and turned into a colander and a cup of: cold water turned over them and allowed to drain. Even with toma- toes it Is, safe to do this, thus removing danger of lead poisoning. VEGETABLES. 233 Time Table for Cooking Vegetables. All green vegetables must be washed thoroughly in cold water, and then dropped into water just beginning to boil. Most of them will be improved by having a tablespoonful of salt added to the water at first. The time for boiling each is as follows: — White potatoes, \ boiled, 30 minutes ; white potatoes, baked, 45 minutes ; sweet potatoes, boiled, 45 minutes ; sweet potatoes, baked, 60 minutes ; green peas, boiled, 20 to 40 minutes ; shelled beans, boiled,\ 60 minutes ; string beans, boiled, 1 to 2 hours ; green corn, boiled, 25 to 60 minutes ; asparagus, boiled, 15 to 30 minutes; spinach, boiled, 1 hour; toma- toes, fresh, 1 hour; tomatoes, canned^ }4 hour; cabbage, ^ to 2 hours ; dandelion greens, 2 to 3 hours ; cauliflower, 1 to 2 hours ; beet greens, 1 hour ; onions, 1 to 2 hours ; beets, 1 to 5 hours ; yel- low turnips, 1^ to 2 hours; parsnips, 1 to 2 hours; carrots, 1 to 2 hours ; white turnips, 45 to 60 minutes ; dried lima beans, 2 hours (soak over ni^ht) ; squash, 1 hour. Potatoes. Baked Potatoes. — Wash them thoroughly, put into a hot oven, bake only until they are tender enough to break open easily, and serve as soon as they are done; cover them only with a napkin in sending them to the table and re- member that a baked potato is' never so nice if it is allowed to stand before it is eaten. About 45 minutes is necessary. Be sure that the pota- toes are dry before putting in oven, as Hhfiy bake quicker. Fruit or Vegetable Presa' 234 VEGETABLES. Boiled Potatoes.— Peel, remove all'specks and lay in cold water at least an hour before using. Allow half an hour for the boiling of medium-sized potatoes. Putxoa in boiling water, having a teaspoon- ful of salt to^^each quart Boil steadily covered, but never furiously. Try with a fork and when done drain off every drop of water, cover with a clean cloth and dry for ten minutes at the back- of the stove, shaking the saucepan a little once or twice. Good potatoes are very nice boiled in their skins. They are never mealier than when served in this style. Peel before sending to the table. Steamed Potato^s.~^Pare the potatoes, thirow them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them in a steamer. Place the steamer over a saucepan of boiling water and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes, according to size and sort. Serve quickly. They are rendered much nicer by dotting with bit§^ of butter, sprinkling with salt and pepper and placing the dish containing them in the oven until the butter melts. To make them still more tempting pour a cup of hot, sweet cream over them just before serving. . Browned Potatoes. — Peel and bake with a roast. When the meat is within half an hour or so of being ready, lay them in the gravy iinder it and bake until covered with a crisp brown skin. Mashed Potatoes.-^ Peel, boil or steam, mash or whip fine, sea- son with salt and butter, moisten with milk, or hot water. Hava the milk hot and dissolve the but- ter in it. White pepper is nice to Potato Masher. season mashed potato. Hot sweet cream is a fine addition to the peri^ction of mashed potatoes. Potatoes a la Custard. — Peel aod boil 6 large white potatoes, drain very dry and make smooth and creamy ; season with salt, pep>. per and butter and a little cream ; press through a colander into thfe dish into which they are to be served ; move the colander so that the little bits will ' fall into the dish evenly and as light as snow flakes. ; beat 1 egg well, and add 1 gill of milk" and pour over top, bake 15 minutes. It should look like a golden-brown custard when it leaves the oven, -r^ Whipped Potatoes. — Instead of mashing in the ordinaiy way, whip with a fork until light and diy, then whip in a little melted but- VEGETABLES. 235 ter, some ttiilk and salt to taste, whipping rapidly until creamy ; pile as lightly and irregularly as possible in a hot dish. Potato Snow.— To 1 pint hot boiled potatoes add 1 teaspoonful •f butter, % teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and hot cream to moisten. > Mash and beat until light and creamy, then rub through a colander into a hot dish. Do not touch afterward or the flakes will fall, and serve as hot as possible. This makes a very pretty and dainty dish. i. The Handy Fryer. Fried Kew Potatoes. — Take small ones, wash and scrape, put them in a saucepan of cold water, bring them to a boil, drain, wipe with a clean cloth. Put potatoes and 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in the frying-pan and cook 20 minutes ; watch them, and when they com- mence to brown, turn theth occasionally, so as to brown alike on all sides. Then strain off the butter, sprinkle with salt, and serve in a hot dish. New Potatoes and Peas. — Cook small new potatoes with green peas, and season as usual with salt, pepper, butter and thickened cream or milk. Very nice. New Potatoes and Cream. — Wash and rub new jpotatoes with a cloth and scrubbing brush. Boil until done. In~a saucepan have hot some rich milk, seasoned with butter, or, better still, cream, if convenient ; add a little green parsley, pepper and salt, drain the pota- toes, turn over them this sauce, and let it just come to a boil. Serve very hot. Delicious. Saratoga Chips. — If possible Use a cabbage or potato cutter ; if not, slice thin with a sharp knife. Place in ice water an hour or longer, and then wipe on a clean napkin. Test the lard by dropping a crust of bread into it, and if it colors a light browft at once it is ready for the potoitoes. Drop in about a dozen slices at once, keep- ing them apart With the ladle, and as soon as they are a light yellow 236 VEGETABLES. take out, as they turn darker after being taken from the lard Place the fried chips on heavy brown paper, and it will absorb all the fat that clings to them. These may be prepared several hours before if kept in a dry, warm place, such as a kitchen closet. Salt while hot. Some cooks like the flavor obtained by sprinkling chopped parsley over them. A quantity can be prepared at once, as they can be warmed in the oven. Suitable for luncheons and to serve with fish. French Fried Potatoes. — Peel potatoes and cut in strips ^ inch thick or thinner; throw into cold water for a few minutes; put in an iron skillet, in which has been put enough boiling lard to cover them. When brown — a yellow brown — dip out by means of a skimmer-, so as to remove all grease possible. Sprinkle with salt while hot, drain on soft paper, and serve atx)nce. Potato Ribbons. — Wash and peel the potatoes, taking out the eyes and all specks. Then peel into very thin ribbons. Place them in a frying basket, and cook in boiling fat 5 or 6 minutes, sprinkle - with salt and serve either hot or cold. Potato Rings. — Peel potatoes and cut them round, as you would pare apples. Fry in hot lard like fritters till brown, sprinkle salt over them, and serve. Custard Potatoes. — Mash potatoes without milk,.simply putting in pepper, salt and butter. Now put through a potato sieve (or a colander will answer the purpose) ; leave the flakes as they fall, and pour over them an egg beaten with a gill of milk. Hake for about 15 minutes. When put through the sieve, let drop into an earthen dish that will stand the heat, and can be sent to the table just as baked. If more than 6 potatoes are cooked, more milk and egg will be needed. Texas Potatoes. — Boil white potatoes, mash, season with salt, pepper and butter. Mince a large onion fine; mix through the potatoes. Put in a baking dish, smooth over the top, dot with bits of butter. Put in an oven and brown nicely. Sweet Potatoes Boiled, or Steamed. — Wash carefully and cook with their jackets on. Peel before sending to the table. Scrape ofl the peeling. The same rules given for boiling or steaming white potatoes will answer for the sweet variety. Browned Sweet Potatoes.— ^Boil, peel while hot, cut in halves, arrange in a dripping pan> put in tibe oven. In a few minutes baste VEGETABLES. 237 with a little melted butter to make them brown faster. Serve hot. Cold potatoes can be used in the same way. Sweet Potato Cakes. — Take the inside of sweet potatoes left from dinner, form into small round cakes, roll in flour and fry brown in butter. This is one of the ways to use cold baked sweet potatoes. Green Oom. Boiled Green Corn. — Corn boiled on the ear is always the prime favorite. Take short, full ears and plunge into boiling salted water. Cook for 20 minutes, and if young and tender it will be done. Drain; lay a napkin in a dish, put in the corn and fold the corners over. Serve with pepper, butter and salt. Many cooks think the corn much- sweeter if cooked in the husks. Take off. all save the last thin layers. Turn this back and remove the silk; fold it again over the corn and cook as above. When done remove the husks and serve as before. The husks may have to be tied at the ends to keep them over the ears of corn. Boiled Corn a la Oriental. — One of the chifs of a famous hotel boils corn after this fashion : " I strip the corn of all the husks, and placing it in a porcelain or agate kettle, I cover it with sweet milk and let it boil 15 to 20 minutes, when it is ready to serve. I never put a drop of water oi^^ corn." Still another one boils corn in one- third hot milk and two-thirds hot water. - / Baked Com. — Cut green corn from the cob, place it in a baking dish, season with salt, pepper and bits of butter. Add milk enough to cover and bake in an oven one-half hour. Baked Canned Corn. — Take 1 can of corn and pour in a shallow dish; then stir in a tablespoon of flour, and 1 egg beaten well to a pint of milk; salt and pepper to taste; then put a piece of butter the size of an egg in the center, and bake 30 minutes. Fried Corn. — ^An easily prepared and palatable way is to grate the corn from a dozen fresh, tender ears, season it with salt and pep- per, and cook it with an ounce of butter in a frying pan, being care- ful that it gets no scorching. A little sweet cream may be added before serving. Escalloped Com. — Take fresh picked com, cut it from the cob; grease a pudding dish, put in a layer, sprinkle a little salt over it and bits of butter, then put on a layer of cracker crumbs, pour over a 238 VEGETABLES. little milk and fill . dish with alternate layers of corn and cracker crumbs, with cracker for top layer and plenty of milk over the whole. Cover closely and bake 1 hour. Stewed Corn. — Shavethe corn from the ear, being careful not to . cut into the cob; to each pint of corn add a tablespoonful of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Just cover with water and cook for an hour; stir- ring often; or if a double boiler is used it will require less attention, but should be cooked 2 hours. If the corn be- tender, less time will do. Just before serving add half a cup of cream for , each pint of corn, thickening with a om ra er. teaspoonful of flour. Or the dressing may be of milk, and just before serving add 2 or 3 well beaten eggs. If liked, stewed tomatoes may be used instead of milk dressing. The latter is especially good with roast beef. Succotash. — Three-quarts of wateir, 1 dozen ears of young, milky corn, one quart of shelled beans, three-quarters of a pound of salt pprk, salt and pepper to taste. Remove thfe raw corn from the cob byxutting through each row of kcrnfils with the point of a sharp knife, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. Eut three-quarters of water in a kettle large- enough to hold the soup, put in the cobs (from which the corn' has been scraped), and boil 15 minutes. Take out the cobs and put in the beans and pork and boil islowly 2^ hours, or till the beans are perfectly tender. Then add the scraped corn and boil 15 min- utes longer ; season to taste with salt, add a littlfe pepper if you like ; turn into a tureen and serve. This is the genuine New England succotash. Serve the pork on a platter. It should be streaked a little with lean. tdma Bieans and Com.— Boil a pint of shelled beans in water just to cover for 10 or 15 minutes. Cut corn from half a dozen ears, and add to the beans ; boil 20 minutes or ^ an hour, adding hot water as needed to keep from burning. Season and add 2 table- , spoonfuls of butter. Scalloped Green Com and Tomatoes. — Take green corn cut from the cob, season with some fat pork chopped very fine, pepper, salt and VEGETABLES. 239 sugar. Let the top layer be tomatoes, butter and season, sift grated bread crumbs over it to brown the scallop. Bake covered % an hour ; uncover and leave in the oven aa much longer. This time is for a large dishful. Com Gollops. — Take equal parts of boiled corn cut on the cob and cold potatoes sliced; fry to a light brown in butter; season toi taste. Goru Oysters. — One dozen ears of corn, not too ripe ; draw a sharp knife through each row of kernels, then scrape into an earthen bowl ; add one freslj egg, salt and pepper to taste, beat thoroughly, drop in separate tablespoonfuls into boiling lard; fry till brown. Serve on a hot platter. - Com Cbowder. — Fry out 3 slices of good, fat, salt pork ; remove the pork, and slice 3 good-sized onions in the fat and fry till browned ; add 3 pints of water and 1 quart of sliced potatoes ; put in 1 can of sweet corn ; when the potatoes are done, pepper and sqlt to taste. If too thick add a little boiling water. Let boil a few minutes before serving. Green Corn Pudding'.-'-Draw a sharp knife through each row of corn lejigthwise, thpn scrape out the pulp ; to 1 pint of the corn add 1 quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful butter, sugar to taste. Stir it occasionally until thick, and bake about 2 hours. If canned corn is used, mash it a little. Green Com Griddle Cakes. — 12 ears of corn grated, 3 eggs, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 cup flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, half teaspoonful salt, mix and bake on a griddle. Winter Succotasli. — One pint dried sweet corn, 1 pint dried Lima beans ; soak over night. In the morning cook separately until partly done. Skim out the beans and put with . tlie corn, cook until done, adding what water is necessary ; season with salt, pepper and butter. White beans can be used. In this case add a pinch of soda to the water in which the beans are first cooked. If canned corn is taken, it will not be necessary to put it in until 16 or 20 minutes before the beans are cooked. Com for Winter. — Cut corn from the ear .md pack in an earthen jar in layers, sprinkling salt thickly over each layer, 1 quart of corn and 1 handful of s^lt being about the correct proportion. Alternate the corn and 5a,lt until the jar is full, having the top one salt ; tfdver 240 VEGETABLES. and set in a cool place. Will keep a year. Corn should be soft and milky. In freshening, drop the corn into boiling water and instantly skim out. This sets the milk. It may then be freshened in as many waters as necessary. Cook slowly; season to suit, and add a little white sugar. Dried Corai.-^— Cut the corn from the cob and dry in the oven. Spread 1 inch deep in the pan and stir often to prevent scorching. This will be found better than cooking the corn before cutting from th^ ear. If the corn is too old for roasting ears, draw the point of a sharp knife through each row of kernels and scrape out the pulp vjrith the back of the knife. Put in a bag and hang in a dry, cool place to keep. To Cook. — Soak over night and simmer gently an hour or more. Season with butter, salt, cream and a little sugar. If milk is used, roll the bits of butter in flour to supply a slight thickening. Cream or milk may be omitted if not liked. Hulled Com or Hominy. — Two tablespoonfuls of soda (baking) to 1 quart of carefully picked-over white field porn. Let soak over night in just water enough. to cover it. Boil in the morning until the hulls come off, adding more water if necessary, but only a little at a time, so as not to dilute the lye. It will take about 2^ hours' brisk ^boiling to dissolve the hull. Drain off the lye, and fill the kettle with cold (not hot) water. Let this come to a boil and keep it boil- ing an hour; then drain off the water and fill the kettle again with cold water and boil as before. Do the same thing a third time, only after filling the kettle a third time continue to boil the corn until it is tender, season with salt and setye with milk and sugar or fry. The dish pays for the trouble in making it Boiled Hominy.— ^ake a pint of hominy, pour cold water over it, stir and let it settle. Then pour off the water. Do this twice ; then put it to soak in 3 pints of water or milk over night In the morning, put it over to cook in a double boiler, add a little salt, and stir often. If it becomes so thick as not to stir easily, add more water or milk. It should be just thick enough to settle down smooth in a deep dish. Fine hominy will cook in 2 hours, the coarse re- quires 3. It is very nice eaten warm with cream and sugar. It can iae cooked in all water or milk and water half and half. It is nice served hot as a vegetable to be eaten with meat and gravy. VEGETABLES. 241 Tomatoes. To Peel Tomatoes.— Cover them with boiling water half a minute, then lay them in cold water till they are perfectly cold, when the skin can be slipped off without difficulty, leaving the tomatoes unbroken and as firm as before they were scalded. Stewed Tomatoes.— Peel and slice the required quantity of toma- , toes, stew in a granite or porcelain saucepan for one-half hour. (Do not use tin or i^on to cook tomatoes.) Thicken with crumbed bread or rolled cracker. Season with salt, pepper and butter. A little sugar is an improvement for most persons, but unless acquainted with every one's taste it is well to permit each person to add sugar to suit his individual taste. Some -cooks do not thicken with bread or crackers, simply reason. Some add a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce ; some add a little curry powder. Others like an onion cut up and stewed with the tomato. Canned Tomatoes are to be prepared the same way, but need only to cook a short time. One economical housewife suggests that a ten cent can of tomatoes stewed with plenty of bread will make sufficient to serve twice for a family of six, adding to the usual seasoning a tablespoonful of vinegar to supply a little acid and prevent insipidity. Escaloped Tomatoes. — Butter an earthen dish, then put in a layer of tomatoes, fresh or canned (without skins), then cover with a layer of bread crumbs, or rolled crackers, add a little butter, salt and pepper ; repeat this process until dish is full, then bake 1 hour in hot oven; 1 small-sized onion, chopped fine, may be added, if desired, to advantage. Have the cracker crumbs for the top layer and dot it with bits of butter ; a little sugar sprinkled over each layer is an improve- ment to most persons. . Some cooks add a little chopped parsley to each layer. Baked Tomatoes. — Thfte are a pleasant variation. Slice fresh tomatoes and spread in layers, with salt, pepper, curry-powder, sugar and butter, and lastly a layer of bread crumbs. Bake until tomatoes are tender. Five minutes before taking out poUr over them a cupful of whipped cream, sweetened. It will brown before it melts and makes a piquant sauce for the dish. Canned tomatoes are more delicious baked than stewed. About 10 minutes before removing from the oven, spread buttered bread crumbs over the t<^. COOK— 16 242 VEGETABLES. Baw Tomatoes, to Serve. — Peel firm, cold, ripe tomatogs, slice thin, put in a glass dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little sugar, to add a zest. Turn over all a cupful of the best cider vinegar. Cay- enne pepper in very small quaintity is better than black pjspper . Some cooks add a teaspooi^ul of made mustard to the vinegar. For otlier ways of serving raw tomatoes see Department on Fresh Frui^. Cabbage. Boiled Cabbage. — Examine thoroughly and wash carefully to free from insects. Slice in sections and put in boiling,-salted water. Boil until done, but not until water-soaked. Drain and serve with vinegay or chop fine and season with butter, pepper and salt, same a§ turnips. Very nice. Some cooks boil th^ cabbage with a small piec^ of corn- beef or salt pork. For a regiilar "^ Boiled, or New England Dinner," see Meat Department. Saur Kraut. — Slice the cabbage as thin as possible. In a butter firkin or barrel plabe a thin layer of salt, and alternate cabbage and salt at each layer. - Slightly pound with a maul until the firkin is full. Have salt for the last layer. Some housekeepers add 1 quart of cider vinegar to a large jar of kraut. Put in a warm, dry place, cover with a cloth, put a largp plate if a jar, a sniall barrel head if a barrel, over the cloth and a weight on that. Re- move the cloth every few days and J rinse to remove the scum. Keep in 'a warm place until it ceases to fer- Vegetab»e Cutter. ment, or " work." A great quantity of water and foam will rise to the top while this process is going on; dip this off as occasion requires. After the fermentation is complete remove to a cold place. Never attempt to use kraut until it stops foaming. A small quantity of cara- way, or coriander seeds, mixed with the salt used will add to the flavor of the kraut. Very nice white kraut is sometimes served raw as a relish. Sailr Kraut and Sausage. — Fry h3.m or sausage, especially sau- sage. When done take up ; put the required anionnt of kraut in the gravy and heat through thoroughly. Heap the kraut in center of the platter and arrange the sausages around it. A little vinegar may be added to the kraut l^efore taking up. VEGETABLES. 243 Boiled Saur iB^raut. — Cook in boiling water 1 hour. It may then be fried in butter or ham gravy, or boiled with a piece of salt pork. Cauliflower, Boiled. — Pick off the outer leaves and cut off the stem, wash well in cold water, tie up in a thin cloth and stand in a kettle of boiling water. Add a little salt, and cover ; let cook until tender. Lift carefully from the water, take off the cloth. Pick apart ; put in a dish and pour melted butter over it. Dredge with pepper (white). Epicures consider 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice an improve-^ inent. Adding milk to the water in which it is boiled, renders cauli- flower whiter. Two or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar will have same effect and is preferred by some. Cauliflower in Cream. — Prepare as above. Cook very tender in 1 pint each of hot milk and water, with 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. Take up with a skimmer and serve with a hot cream sauce. Creamed Cauliflower. — Prepare as for Boiled Cauliflower, drain and pour over it 1 cupful of rich milk. Let boil and season with 1 ta^espoonful of butter, cut in bits and rolled in flour^ and a little white or black pepper. Cauliflower with Cheese. — Plunge a medium-sized cauliflower into boiling water, allowing a tablespoonful of salt to the Water, boil the cauliflower until just tender, drain it, and break itito sprigs. Heat half a pint of milk and pour it over the same quantity of well-sea- soned bread crumbs, and have ready some grated cheese. Butter a shallow, round, enameled dish; place first the sprigs of cauliflower, then cover with soaked crumbs, and powder these thickly with cheese. Place a few dots of butter on the.top. Bake until it is a light browa Peas. BoUed Peas. — ^When boiled as follows peas are exceptionally nice : To half a peck allow a breakfast cupful of water, 1 ounce of butter, 1 large lump of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt and a sprig of mint. Serve with the liquor. The mint can be omitted if it is not liked. Stale or wilted peas may be improved by being shelled and placed in very cold water for at least 1 hour before using, and adding a little sugar to the water in which they are boiled. Gteen Peas, Stewed.— Shell one-half peck of young peas, put tfeem in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of sugar'^and suAicien if liked, and salt to taste. Keep shaking the pan around until it is well mixed, and is thick and smooth. Pour into a hot dish and serve. Milk can be used instead of cream ; in which case a trifle more flour and butter will be needed. Slices of hard-boiled egg make a pretty garnish. Sprinkle with pepper. Breaded Parsnips. — Scrub thoroughly with a brush, and drop into boiling water that has been previously salted. When nearly done skim out, and slice long and thin. Dip first into beaten egg, then into bfead or cracker crumbs, and fry in butter to a golden brown. Turnips. Tumlpa Boiled Whol*.— Turnips boiled like beets, with their jackets on, are of better flavor and less watery. A small bit of sugar added while the vegetable is boiling corrects the bitterness often found in them. Cut up and mash with pepper, butter and salt. . VEGETABLES. 247 Creamed Turnips. — ^Turnips if sliced will take about 30 minutes ^ if put in whole 40, minutes' time will be needed to cook them thoroughly. Pare the turnips, cut them in small pieces and boil them in plenty of hot salted water. When , done drain them in a \ colander and turn j them into a hot vege- table dish. Put 1 tea- spoonful of butter in a small sauce-pan, and when hot add a level teaspoonful of Arcadia SUoer. flour; stir till smooth, but not brown; add half a pint of milk and stir continually until it boils ; add half a teaspoonful of salt and pour over the turnips. Diced Turnips. — Pare, slice, cut in dice an inch square, boil in as little salted water as possible, and add 1 tablespoon of sugar to a quart of turnips. When boiled dry, add a few spoonfuls of sweet cream and a beaten egg. Browned Turnips. — Pare turnips, cut in slices and boil. Drain. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, let heat, add the turnips, with 1 tablespoonful of sugar. Stir and turn .until the slices are brown. Dust with .salt and pepper and serve hot. Turnips in "White Sauce. — Wash and cut turnips into slices, pare and cut the slices in dice. Cook in salted water until tender. Drain and turn over them a hot white sauce. Asparagus. Asparagus, To BoU. — ^A common error is to boil asparagus too much. It should be crisp, rather than mushy. Tie the stalks with the heads all one way, trim to an even length and place upright in a high vessel of salted boiling water, leaving the tips just above the water. A 5-pound lard pail makes a good vessel for boiling asparagus. If the bunches are placed on the sides, so that the tips and all are immersed, this most delicate portion is boiled to rags before the stems are done. If the bunches are tied with bands of soft old muslin,^^they may be lifted out and untied without breaking the stalks, 248 VEGETABLES. as cord will sometimes do. Season with butter and pepper, and serve at once. Asparagus cooked in this fashion is to be eaten with the fingers. Another way to, boil asparagus is to cut the stalks in half and the lowest part should be cooked for three-quarters of an hour. Then add the tops and cook for 10 or 15 minutes. By this method both parts become just right. The stalk is tender throughout and the tops do not fall all to pieces. Toast is always servfed with aspar- agus, but there are many other vegetables with which it is equally good. It is delicious- with cauliflower, and either French or butter beans, also with cabbage, if a white sauce is served with that vegeta- ble, and it is worth noting that summer vegetables will generally agree better with children if eaten well-mixed with bread. Asparagus on Toast. — Boil the asparagus as above. Toast slices of bread. Dip quickly in the water in which the asparagus was boiled, and butter. Lay several stalks of asparagus on each slice, arrange on platter, season with pepper and melted butter. Or make a white sauce of a tablespoonful of butter, one of flour, a little salt, a saltspoon of pepper, and enough of the water in which the asparagus was boiled to make the desired consistency (usually 1 cup), pour over asparagus. Serve at once. A little vinegar is some- times added to this sauce. Onions. When cooking onions, be sure to set a tincup of vinegar on the stove and let boil, and no disagreeable odor will be in the room. When peeling and slicing onions hold under water ; have a large pan- ful. In this way their pungfent aroma will not cause the eyes to smart. Onions are perhaps the most wholesome vegetable in use ; but few people use them as liberally as they should on account of the disagreeable odor. A cup of strong cofifee taken immediately after eating is said to counteract this odor on the breath. Sweet milk is also recommended. Parsley and vinegar are said to be a certain rem- edy. In peeling onions be careful not to cut the topor bottom too closely or the onion will not keep whole. Boiled Onions. — Boil in 3 different waters, allowing 5 minutes to each water. This will remove the odor and make the onions tender and sweet. Boil till done, then season with milk, butter, salt and pepper. VEGETABLES. 249 Creamed OnloHS. — Pare the onions and drop into boiling water, parboil, and tiirn the water off. Add more salt to the taste. Cove* closely and boil until they commence to be tender, then remove cover, sea- son with salt (if necessary), pepper and butter, and boil slowly until the water has nearly evaporated. Heat 1 teacupful of sweet milk to the boil- ing point and thicken with 1 table- spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in cold milk. When it boils pour it on the onions and serve. Covered Saucepan. Sscaloped Onions. — Peel and slice a pint of nice onions. In a baking dish spread a layer of bread crumbs ; add a layer of sliced onions ; season well, and so alternately until the dish is full. Use plenty of butter, salt, and pepper. Pour over all 2 cups of sweet milk and bake one hour. Baked Onions. — Select even-sized onions. Cover with hot salted water and simmer 30 minutes without removing the outside skin. When ready to bake, carefully remove this thin membranous skin, place the onions in a baking dish and bake until tender, basting often with melted butter. The onions must be thoroughly done, but should not lose their shape. Pour melted butter over, and dust with pepper. Spanish onions are best. Oelery. Celery served raw should be placed in cold water an hour before using, then cleaned and arranged on a celery dish. A more orna- mental way is to cut the stalks in pieces 4 inches long, split these 4 or 5 times with a sharp knife, lay in cold water till they curl, then remove to a glass dish, eat with vinegar, pepper, and salt. Celery can be kept a jveek or longer by first rolling it in dark-brown paper ; then pinning it in a towel and laying away in a cool, dark place. Thus kept, the celety will bleach to a considerable extent and be finer than when first purchased. One of the novelties of the market is rose-tinted celery. This is now grown in a beautiful pink tint, which is very effective on the table, and it is quite as crisp, nutty and deli- cious as the white celery, to which it offers an excellent foil. A pink 250 VEGETABLES. Beleek salad bowl, heaped with pink cfelefy dressed in white Mayon. naise with a garnish of dainty green, makes a charming dish to serve on the dinner table with fried chicken or roast bird. Creamed Celery.^^Cut up 2 bunches of celery, put in a saucepan, cover with boiling water, to which add half a teaspoonful of salt ; let cook until tender. Take up, drain and throw into cold water. Put a tablespooiiful of butter in a frying-pan, let heat, add a table- spoonful of flour and mix until smooth; thin with half a pint of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of the water in which the celery was boiled, season with salt and jpfepp'o". Add the celery to the sauce; stir until thoroughly heated, and serve. Cream can be jused instead of milk. Serve with chicken or turkey. The celery may be boiled in the stem and served with drawn butter sauce poured over it if preferred. Carrots. Creamed Carrots. — Wash, scrape and boil until tender in salted water. Turn off the water, slice in the saucepan, add a lump of butter rolled in flour, and cover them with boiling milk. Stir until the butter melts. Dish up hot. People who say they hate car- rots will eat them this way and call for more. Fried Carrots. — ^^Scrape several carrots un- til all the spots and portions of skin are re- moved. Boil until nearly done, remove from the kettle, draining thoroughly ; roll in granu- lated cornmeal or flour ; fry in butter. Serve hot. Caramel Carrots. — Boil the carrots and cut in long, thin strips like cigarettes. Put Tin Vegetable Cutter, jnto ^^e frying pan a large lump of butter and drippings. When very hot add the carrots, sprinkle with sugar, pepper and salt, and fry until the edges are well browned. Sprinkle with chopped^arsley and serve. Mushrooms. To Test. — Beginning With August is the season of plenty in mushrooms. The top is a dirty white color, which the poetically in- clined like to call pearl-pink. The Under side is a salmon-colored fringe surface and 'becomes brown soon after gathering. The season VEGETABLES. 1251 for mushrooms js also, the season for the mushropm^' low-born r«l^- tive, the toadstool. It is absolutely unsafe to eat mushrooms without testing them properly. A peeled white onion cooked in the pot with the toadstool turns black. A silver spoon used to turn cooking toad- stools turns black. If either of these things should happen to the mushrooms, they should be thrown out. Once the vegetable is proved to he the harmless and delicious one some of the following recipes should be tried. An antidote if poisoned is powdered emetics, followed by castor oil. Creamed Mushrooms. — Glean 12 large mushrooms and put them in a buttered shallow pan, setting them cup side up. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper and dot them over with butter; add two-thirds cupful of cream and bake 10 minutes. Serve with sliceg of toast. Sscaloped Mushrooms. — Put the mushrooms in a buttered bak- ing-dish with alternate layers of crumbs, seasoning each layer plenti- fully with butter J add salt, pepper and a gill of cream or gravy. Bake 20 minutes, keeping covered while in the oven. Stewed Mushrooms. — Take the button mushrooqis, trim and rub clean with a flannel dipped in salt. Cut off a portion of the stalk. To one-half pintof the mushrooms put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a pan, season with salt and pepper, put in the mushrooms and let them broil slightly. Then turn in a very little hot or soup stock and let them stew gently for one-quarter of an hour. Rub together a little flour and butter to make the liquor about as thick as cream. Let boil 5 minutes7~ When ready to dish up stir in 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or the beaten yolk of 1 egg. They can also be stewed in milk and water, half and half, and seasoned to taste. Mushrooms can be cooked in almost any way that oysters are served. Cucumbers. Boiled Cucumbers. — Peel 4 good-sized cucumbers ; cut them into halves, then into quarters. Put them carefully into the bottom of a baking pan ; cover with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, and stew gently fQr 20 minutes. Have ready a platter of toast ; lift the cucumbers carefully ; arrange them neatly on the toast, and cover with English, drawn butter. Stewed Cucumbers. — First peel the cucumbers, take 'away the bitter ends and cut in slices. Place in a china-lined saucepan, cover 252 VEGETABLES. with milk, add pepper and salt and stew slowly till cooked ; add a teaspoonful of butter, season with salt and white pepper. Let boil up and serve hot. A very delicate dish. If a little cream can be added it will be an improvement. Cucumbers, Raw. — Cucumbers should be fresh and kept in ice chest. Cut the outside while the green shows ; slice thin and salt well ; let stand an hour before using. Pour a little vine- gar over. Or slice equal quantities of onions _ and cucumbers, season and turn vinegar *■''' "il^^^^^SS/^l^^ °^^''- ^'' P"* the"™ ''ito * .glass dish, and j5 sprinkle bits of ice over them. Serve with I a French dressing in a separate dish. Fried Cucumbers. — Cifcunlber^ are seldom used except raw, and yet ihey are both delicious and digestible when cooked. Vegetable SUoer. parg 3 large cucumbers, slice thick, and soak in salt water for 10 minutes. Drain and press out the water. Roll each slice in grated cracker ; fry in boiling fat and serve very hot. Cucumbers are good for cooking when they are a little too old for slicing raw. \ Cucumber Toast. — Pare the cucumbers and slice lengthwise in cuts three-quarter-inch thick ; drop in cold salt water ; dip the slices in flour, and fry in butter or meat gravy until a light brown on each side. Have half slices of toast, moisten slightly and butter. Lay a slice of cucumber between two pieces of toast [and serve immediately —hot as possible. Cucumber can be served fried without the toast. Bgg-Plant. Fried Egg-Plant. — Take a medium-sized purple egg-plant, slice f around in slices one-half inch thick. Drop in cold salted water for ^some time before cooking to remove the strong taste ; or, if in a hurry, parboil for 5 minutes in salted water; drain on a napkin; dip each slice in beaten egg, then in cracker-dust and fry until a light-brown. Pepper and serve hot^ or, dip in a thin batter and fry a delicate brown on both sides. Stuffed Bgg-Plant. — Cut the egg-plant in two ; scrape out all the inside, and put it in a saucepan with a little minced ham ; cover with VEGETABLES. 253 water and boil until soft; drain off the water; add 2 tablespoonfuls of grated crumbs and a tablespoonful of butter; half a minced onion, salt and pepper; stuff each half of the hull with the mixture ; add a small lump of butter to each and bake fifteen minutes. Minced veal or chicken in the place of ham is equally as good, and many prefer it. Stewed Egg-Plant, Creole Method. — Stewed egg-plants is a de- lightful summer dish. Make a roux, browning one onion in a spoon- ful of lard ; cut up the egg-plants and a tomatp, and put in the roux, adding a little water to keep from burning, then stew slowly, season- ing with salt and pepper to taste. Mix together, mashing the egg- plant thoroughly, and serve. ^ Truffles. The truffle belongs to the mushroom family. In France they are found chiefly under the oak, in England beneath the beech-tree, and sometimes the hazel and cedar. In this country only under one species of oak do they grow, and that the holly or evergreen variety. Here they are chiefly used as a condiment for boned turkey and chicken, beef, game, fish, etc. In proper quantities they give a pecu^ liar zest and flavor to sauces that can be found in no other plant in the vegetable kingdom. In countries where they grow in greater profusion they are frequently served by themselves. Truffles, Italian Style. — Ten truffles, quarter-pint of salad^ oil. Pepper and salt to taste. A very little finely minced garlic (minced onion would better suit American tastes), 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cleanse and brush the truffles, cut in thin slices. Mix all the above ingredients, except the lemon juice, and pour in a baking dish. Add the truffles and bake three-quarters of an hour. Just before serving add the lemon juice, and send to the table very hot. Macaroni. The possibilities of macaroni are sadly neglected in this country, and, where it is used, one or, at most, two ways of preparing, seems to be the extent of the skill of the ordinary cook ; and so the fact remains that macaroni is not rated at half its worth. It can be served as a side dish, or in the summer-time, when meats become distasteful, may, in roasted form, constitute the chief dish of the dinner. It can be chopped fine and made into croquettes. It can be used in part to 264 VEGETABLES. stuff both bird and fowl ; and since oiie pound of it is said to be as nourishing as two pounds of beef; it seems a pity that it is not more generally used. Macaroni Hints. — In boiling macaroni it is fatal to permit it to stop boiling for a moment until done. Have plenty of salted water in the' saucepan at the boiling-point when the sticks are added, and when they are tender throw in a glass of cold wat«" to stop the cook- ing suddenly, and drain at once. After that it may be served in various ways. Grate cheese on a coarse grater for macaroni and cheese, instead of cutting it. Have cheese dry ; save a piece and dry on purpose for it. Macaroni and Cheese. — ^Twelve sticks of macaroni broken into 1-inch lengths, cooked in 3 pints of boiling salted water 20 minutes. Turn into a colander and pour over it cold water ; drain. Make a sauce of one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, and 1 ^ cups of milk ; salt. Put a layer of grated cheese in bottom of bake dish, then layer of^macaroni and one of sauce, then cheese, macaroni and sauce ; cover top with fine bread crumbs, bits of butter and a little <=frated cheese. Bake until brown. Rice. Boiled Biee.^Boiled rice is considered indispensable for break- fast at the south. Wash the rice in several waters, and allow 1 pint of boiling water to 1 cup of rice, add a little salt, cover closely and cook slowly until perfectly dry j do not stir it, and when done each grain will be perfect. Cook over an asbestos lid or in a double boiler. Rice is deficient in natural fat, therefore it is a more useful article of diet when cooked with milk or butter. In boiling rice it can be cooked in a very little water at first, and the deficiency supplied by adding boiling milk to finish. ■ Rice cooked thus is a good substitute for potatoes to serve with roast beef. Efoiled Bice, Syrian Fashion. — Wash the rice until th? water runs clear. Then in •? dry vessel put a piece of butter the size of a small egg to a cup oi rice. Beat over the fire until the butter is thoroughly melted and bubbling. Add the rice and stir well with the butter. Then pour in salted water, and cook the rice slowly, without stirring, until the water is absorbed and it is tender. With rice cooked perfecttsr in this fashion, an unequalled substitute for potatoes is found. VEGETABLES. 255 Chow Waia, a Chinese Dish. — Take equal parts rice and water ; let it boil a minute and then sfet where it can steam slowly for an hour, stirring occasionally with a fork, to keep the kernels whole. When done, or when cold, put in frying-pan, with oil or melted but- ter, and heat thoroughly through, adding onions, finely chopped. One good-sized onion to a pint of rice. Add salt to suit the taste. Baked Bice. — ^One cupful rice, 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspooriful salt ; wash the rice carefully, and put in a pudding dish, turn in the milk, season with salt; and bake m a slow oven 2 hours. It should swell and be a firm mass. If it browns top fast cover until nearly done. Rice Patties. — Two cups of cold boiled rice, 3 eggs,, one-fourth of a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of flour and a little salt. Stir well together and fry a nice brown in butter. Bice and Codfish. — Put one-half cup of rice into one-quart of boiling water. Boil rapidly until tender, and drain. Turn into a saucepan with ofle^alf box of shredded codfish ; stir till the codfish is thoroughly hot, add a tablespoonful of butter ; one-fourth teaspoonful of ,salt, a sailtspoonful of pepper ; break over 2 whole eggs, stir. quickly, turn into a hot dish and serve. Sbak the codfish in clear water while the rice is cooking. Bice and Cheese. — Rice and cheese are very good with^ roast beef. They are prepared in much the same way as macaroni and cheese. Boil the rice until tender in salted water, drain dry, then put in a baking dish, alternate layers of the rice and grated cheese. Sea- son with salt, pepper and bits of butter, moisten with sweet milk, cover with fine buttered crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. ,^^ Spinach. Spinach, Plain. — Spinach should be cooked so as to retain its bright, green color, and not sent to the table, as it so often is, a dull brown. To keep its fresh green color leave the kettle, in which it is cook- ing, uncovered. This course may be pursued with any other vegetable where it is desirable to retain the green color, like Brussels sprouts asparagus. Wash the spinach very thoroughly in several waters, as insects and sand are to be found in it. Drain and cook 15 or 20 minutes in boiling salted Oook Pot 256 VEGETABLES. . water ; skim if necessary. Take, up, drain and press well. Chop fine and put in a saucepan with a piece of butter and a little pepper. Stir it over the fire until quite dry. Turn into a vegetable dish ; pound it up. Slice hard-boiled eggs over the top. Pass vinegar around with it. Spinach a la Creme. — Another change is, when the spinach is heated thoroughly in the saucepan, as above, beat in 3 tablespoonfuls of cream and let simmer .5 minutes. Garnish with sliced hard-boiled eggs. Spinacli with Drawn Butter. — I*ick over and wash a peck of spinach, drain and shake free of water. Put in a kettle without water, set over a moderate fire and let steam for 25 minutes. Drain in a colander, chop fine, season with salt, pepper, and melted ^butter. Mould the spinach by pressing tightly in small cups, turn out on slices of hot buttered toast, sprinkle the tops with chopped hard- boiled eggs. Pour drawn butter around the toast and serve at once. Spinach on Toast. — Wash well, cooking in salted, boiling water. Drain and chop fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a sauce-pan with seasoning. Stir in the spinach and beat smooth. When hot add a tablespoonful of cream, or 2 of milk. Pour upon buttered toast. Lettuce. Lettuce Boiled. — Many persons dislike this vegetkble as a salad. They may not be aware that when boiled, minced, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter, it forms a delightful addition to the dinner table. A Parisian housewife buys a bunch of lettuce for boiling quite as frequently as for salad. Wilted Liettuce. — Place in a vegetable dish lettuce that has been very carefully" picked and washed, each leaf by itself, to remove all insects. Cut across the dish several times, and sprinkle with salt. Fry a slice of fat ham until brown ; remove meat ; heat the grease until very hot; add 1 cup of good vinegar, and pour it boiling hot over the lettuce. Be certain to have the fat so hot that when the vinegar is poured in it will boil immediately. Add half-cup or a cup of vinegar, according to the strength of vin^ar and quantity of lettuce. liettuce a la Creme. — Lettuces are also delicious when prepared as follows: Boil them as above stated and strain well; then cook them for an hour in a white sauce made thus : Stir over the fire a piece VEGETABLES, 257 of butter in an enameled saucepan with some flour; add a little water, about half a, wine-glass, and very slowly a cupful of cream, stirring gently all the time. Put in salt and pepper to taste. Squash. > Hubbard Squash, Baked. — Cut open the squash, take out the seeds, and without paring cut up in large pieces. Put the pieces on tins or in a dripping-pan and bake about an hour in a moderate oven. When done serve the pieces hot on a dish to be eaten warm with butter, like sweet potatoes, or peel and mash, seasoning with butter and salt. The squash retains its sweetness much better if boiled. Squash may be cut and peeled and baked with roast beef, browning in the gravy like potatoes. Baked Winter Squash. — Boil or steam, mash and let get cold, then beat up light with 1 tablespoonful melted butter, 2 raw eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls milk; pepper and salt to taste. Put in buttered bake dish, sift dry crumbs over the top and bake in a quick oven. Baked Squash Ij'Elegante. — Boil or steam. Drain and put in a baking dish, put over them bits of butter, pepper and salt, sprinkle thickly with sugar, and bake in the oven a nice brown. Squash a la Creme. — Cut into suitable sized pieces to fit a steamer, place shell side up. When tender, take the pieces in a cloth, with a spoon carefully remove the soft part, season with salt and cream, and reheat before serving. Beets. Boiled Beets. — Wash the beets carefully, and do not cut off the roots, for by so doing the juices escape and the color is spoiled. Boil them several hours ; the time varies according to the age and season. When young and small they require about an hour. When they are done, pour off the hot water and cover them with cold water. Rub off the skin, cut them in rather thin slices and season with plenty* of fresh butter, salt and pepper, and, if you like, a tablespoonful or more vinegar. Keep some of the nicest to slice cold in vinegar for pickles. Foung Beets. — Boil and slice, pour over them a sauce made as follows : Half teacupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful butter. Let boil up and turn over the beets. Serve hot. COOK— 17 258 VEGETABLES. Beets a la Creme.-^Boil and slice iot. Have cream or rich milk seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. Let boil up and pour over the beets at once. Baked Beets. — Beets retain their sweet flavor to perfection if baked. Turn frequently in the oven, but do not use a fork* as that would let out the juices. When done peel, slice and season with butter, salt and pepper. Stiififed Green Peppers.— Immerse the peppers in boiling water for a moment, remove the skin, cut around the stem and remove both it and the seeds; fill with a stuffing made from tomatoes and bread- crumbs seasoned, and cook half an hour in a moderate oven. If the peppers ,are too ripe they will lose their form. Serve with a tomato sauce. Okra. Okra. — ^This grbws in the shape of pods, is of a gelatinous char- acter, is much used for soup, is also pickled and may be boiled as follows: Put the young, tender pods of long, white okra in salted boiling water in a porcelain or granite saucepan. (Iron will discolor it.) Boil 15 minutes, remove the stems, and serve with butter, pepper and salt. A little vinegar may^ be used, if liked. Creamed-Okra. — Boil young okra until tender ; drain, add cream and butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve hot. ^our over buttered toast if desired. Okra Gumbo, Creole Style. — Take equal quantities of tender okra chopped fine, and ripe tomatoes chopped fine, 1 onion sliced, a lump of butter and a little salt and pepper. Stew the whole until ten- der, add 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of water to prevent burning." Miscellaneous Vegetables. Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster, — Scrape and throw at once into cold water, with a little vinegar in it to keep them from turning black. Cook in boiling salted Water 1 hour, or until tender. Add a cupful of cream or milk, with 3. tablespoonful of flour stirred in smoothly, to the water in which they were boiled. Season with pepper, salt and butter, and serve as other oysters. A small piece of codfish is some- times boiled with it. Fried Salsify. — Wash, scrape and boil an hour, or till it is tender. Put it into a dish and mash it with a potato masher ; season it with a VEGETABLES. 259 little cream, butter, pepper and salt, and just a dash of cayenne pepper. Set away to cool. When very cold shape into balls, dip in egg, roll in fine crumbs and fry brown in boiling fat. Or, after mashing the oyster plant, add an egg for each cupful of pulp^ add a little butter and salt, and, if necessary, a little flour may be stirred in. Make it up into small cakes, and fry them in hot butter. Brussels Sprouts. — Pick off the outside from half a gallon of sprouts, wash in cold water, put in a kettle and cover with boiling salted water. Let boil rapidly for 25 minutes, drain, put in a heated dish, and serve with cream sauce. Stewed Water-cress. — Lay the cresses in strong salt and water, pick and wash them well, and stew in water until tender ; drain and chop them, return to the stew pan, with a lump of butter, some salt and pepper, and let get thoroughly hot. Just before serving squeeze in a little lemon juice. Serve with fried sippets of bread. These are very nice with boiled chickens. Fresh Water-cress. — Wash very carefully, shake dry, heap on a pretty dish. To be^aten with salt, as each person likes. Grandmotlier's Dandelion Greens. — ^When thoroughly cleansed boil in plenty of salted water till tender, drain and press till very dry, and chop in a chopping bowl moderately fine. Take a large bunch of garden sorrel, wash, drain thoroughly, and 'chop quite fine. There should be about one-third as much chopped sorrel as dandelion. Into a deep saucepan put a heaping tablespoonful of butter for each cupful of the sorrel. When quite hot add the sorfel and stir over a mode- rate fire till it has turned brown. Now add the dandelion, stir till boiling hot, remove from the fire and add 1 beaten egg for each pint of greens, and serve. The eggs may be entirely omitted without spoiling the dish. More or less sorrel may be used, according to taste, no vinegar being eaten with the greens. The wild sorrel is equally^ as good, but, being very small, requires considerable time to gather and prepare. ' Greens. — One peck of greens is sufficient for a family of six. Dandelions, cow-slips, yellow dock (the long, narrow leaf), mustard, turnip tops, cabbage sprout, lambs' quarters, etc. Separate or mixed. Examine very carefully. Rinse in several waters until they are en- tirely free from sand and insects. If the last water be well salted it will aid in freeing from insect life, especially if they are allowed to 260 VEGETABLES. stand in it awhile. Cook in plenty of boiling salted water. Cut away all the tough leaves and stalks before cooking. Drain in a colander, chop a little, return to the fire in a saucepan, and season with butter and pepper. This dries them a little. Serve hot. Send vinegar around with them. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. Beet Grreens. — These are, perhaps, the most delicious greens to be had. Wash and sort the leaves carefully. Preserve all the tiny young beets there may be among them ; boil in salted water. Drain, chop altogether. Season with butter, pepper, and salt. Send vinegar around with them. Serve hot. Fried Apples. — Choose large, firm apples, rather tart, wash with- out paring and slice across, so as to make round slices half an inch thick, with the core in the center. Have a spoonful of butter brown- ing in the pan and lay the slices in to brown. Just as they are ready to turn, if a sweet dish is liked, sprinkle cinnamon and sugstr over the uncooked side, so that the flavor will go into the apple while brown- ing. The old-fashioned way was to fry them in the fat of salt pork, and serve without sweetening as a tart sauce with the meat. The art of cooking them is to have the slices tender and browned, but un- broken. A deep griddle is best to fry them on. Fried Evaporated Apples. — ^Two handfuls of evaporated apples soaked 20 minutes in water ; put into frying-pan 1 teaspoon of butter and 1 teaspoon of lard ; put in the apples and cover them with 2 table- spoons of sugar and a pinch of cinnamon and salt, then 1 tablespoon , of the water the apples were soaked in ; cover a few minutes, then let them brown. Fine to eat with pork chops. Fried Bread Served for a "Vegetable. — Cut some bread, which, though stale, is still light and soft, into fingers half an inch thick ; dip them in milk, and let them drain for a while. Dip in beaten egg. Dredge flour over them and fry in a little hot butter in a frying-pan. Pile th^m pyramid fashion in a hot dish a:nd serve with gravy. Vegetable Turkey. — Bread, 1 pound; butter, one-half cupful; nut meats, onfc-fourth to half pound, 1 egg, seasoning and sage to taste. Either mash the nuts in a mortar or chop fine, then put bread, butter, and egg into a chopping-bowl, pour on the boiling-water and chop fine, season to taste, and mix thoroughly. Butter a pudding- pan, cover the butter with bread crumbs ; put in the mixture, and bake ftn hour, or until well done. WErlEMFfrlK Croquettes form a dainty breakfast or lun^ cheon dish, and are often used as an entree at j^ dinner. Many housekeepers think that chicken, sweet-breads, or veal, are the only meats from which croquettes can be made, but this is an error; many canned and fresh fish being well suited for the dish. The following recipes for making croquettes for both the family table and company luncheons, will be found dainty and economical : Croquettes rnay be fried in almost any kind of fat or sweet dripping. The fat should be hot and the croquette well breaded, and fried so quickly that no trace of fat remains. The economical housewife spends but little money for lard or butter for frying purposes. All scraps of fat from pork and beef can be rendered, strained, and set aside for this purpose. The skimmings from the meat liquor, as well as the drippings from all roasted meats, may be saved and properly clarified, by being poured into a saucepan of boiling water, let it boil for ten minutes, then poured into a dish tb cool ; when cold, the fat will cake on the top, and may very easily be removed. Beef marrow, taken from soup bones and round steak, is excellent for cooking purposes. Cut it into small bits ; put it in a covered stone jar ; set it in a pan of water, and place over the fire to simmer gently. ' When all melted, strain through a thin cloth into a clean pan ; let it settle for a few minutes ; then press into small jars, and tie it securely. It will keep for months. Beef suet, if mixed with pork drippings, will be found excellent for plain pastry and cakes^ as well as for frying purposes. A deep stew-pan, fitted with a wire frying basket, is far the best utensil to use for frying. The old-fashioned shallow pans do not hold sufficient fat. A good deal of fat is required for the stew-pan at first, but if properly clarified after using, and a little added to it from time to time; it will last for quite a long while, and can be frequently used. The fat should not boil, but be smoking hot. Too hot fat burns the croquette before it can fry, and too cool fat usually bursts the 267 262 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. covering. Another cause for ths bursting is, that the article to be fried has not been entirely covered by the egg, as well as by the bread crumbs. Great care should be taken that every part is entirely covered. In covering croquettes, or anything for frying, bread crumbs are preferable, as the shortening employed in making the crackers attracts the grease. Some cooks prefer fine raspings of a pale color to bread crumbs. Save the crusts from bread prepared for toasting j dry, not brown, in the oven. Roll, or pound fine ; then Sift, and put in an air-tight fruit jar, in a dry place. They will remain sweet and ^ood for weeks. Bits of stale bread can be used in the same man- ner. Croquettes should be served on a folded napkin, laid on a plate. Direct contact with the plate inclines them to fall. It requires as much fat to fry, croquettes as for doughnuts. Where onions are used for flavoring, onion juice is often better than the minced vegetable. To extract the juice, cut the onion in half and press it against, and pass it slowly over, a, grater. The juice will run off the point of the grater. -If the croquette is mixed with egg, breading is enough; otherwise, dip first in beaten egg, then roll in crumbs. Chicken and Oyster CroquetteB.— One cupful cold chopped- chicken, one-half cupful sifted bread crumbs, 1 cupful chopped oys- ters, 1 egg beaten lightly. Pepper and salt to taste. Boil the bones of the chicken in water enough to cover. Moisten the chicken and oyster mixture with the resulting broth to a consistency that it can be moulded by the hands into rolls about the size of the finger. Roll in sifted bread crumbs and fry- in hot lard. Chicken Croquettes. — One-qUarter as much fine bread crumbs as meat ; 1 egg beaten light to each cupful of minced meat ; gfavy enough to moisten ; pepper, salt and chopped parsley to taste. Mix into a paste. Make into rolls or balls, roll in bread crumbs and fry in nice dripping or a mixture of half lard and half butter. Veal and other meats may be made in the same way ; turkey also. Cream may be used to moisten the minced chicken instead of gravy or broth. Instead of bread crumbs the same amount of stuffing remain- ing over from the roast chicken may be used as a savory change. Chicken and Calves' Brains Croquettes. — One fat hen well boiled, and when cold the skin removed, 2 sets of calves' brains boiled and allowed to cool, 1 large kitchen-spoonful of flour, 1 pint CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 263 of cream, half a teacup of butter, 1 tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 raw eggs well beaten, 1 teacupful of bread crumbs, 1 scant teaspoonful of powdered mace, juice of 1 lemon, cayenne pepper, salt and nutmeg to taste. Chop the chicken very fine and rub it into the brains, add the bread crumbs, chopped parsley and mace and eggs. Put the butter in a pan with the flour, and when it bubbles add the cream gradually, then the chopped mixture, salt, pepper and nutmeg, and stir until thoroughly heated, take from the fire and add the lemon juice, then set away to cool. Roll or mould into shape and fry in hot lard after having dipped them in egg and bread crumbs. Meat Croquettes. — ^Any one may have croquettes who can ijiince cold meat very fine and stir it into a sauce made thus : One pint of to thicken; Timbal* Irons, add 1 teaspoonful salt, and flavor with onion juice or celery seed or -pulverized dried sage. When cooked add a pint of the chopped meat (for half a pint take half of the sauce) and stir well ; then, when cold, make into croquettes or balls, rolling in the hands. Dip into beaten egg and fine dry bread crumbs, or rolled cracker, and fry like doughnuts in boiling lard. Sauce for Meat Croquettes. — ^A vety nice sauce to serve with croquettes is made of stewed tomatoes put through a sieve and thickened very thick, so it will just spread over them ; it is served from a gravy boat with ladle, not on the dish. With croquettes, bits of parsley should be used for a garnish. Baked Croquettes. — Free from bones the chicken left from- din- ner, add the liver left from breakfast, and chop fine. Add the potato left from dinner ; mould into cakes and bake on a buttered tin. Ham Croquettes. — ^A cupful of finely-chopped^ cooked ham, a cupful of bread crumbs, 2 of hot mashed potatoes, a large tablespoonful of butter, 3 eggs, a speck of cayenne. ' Beat the ham, cayenne, butter and 2 of the eggs into the potato. Let the mixture cool slightly and Bhape it like croquettes. Roll in bread crumbs, put in the frying- 264 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. basket and plunge into boiling fat. Drain and serve. 'These cro- quettes may be made without the bread crumbs, in which case leave out one egg. Corned Beef Croquettes.— Carefully remove all fat and gristle from pieces of cold corned beef. Chop very fine, as for mince-meat. Mix with rolled cracker crumbs. Add 1 beaten egg, pepper and salt. Mould into little cones, pr cat into cakes with the biscuit cutter. Roll in a beaten egg, then in cracker crumbs, then again in beaten ^&g- Fiy ii^ * ^ot spider with butter till nicely browned on each side. These are very nice, even with the eggs omitted. Sweet-Bread Crofluettes.^— Take 4 veal sweet-breads, soak for an hour in cold, salted water, first removing the pipes and mem- branes ; then put into boiling, salted water, with a tablespoonful of vinegar. Cook twenty minutes. Drop into cold water to harden. Chop fine, almost to a paste. Season with salt, pepper, and:a teaspoon- fiil of grated onion ; add 2 beaten eggs, 1 tablespoonful of butter and one-half cupful of cream. Flour the hands and mould into round or pear-shaped balls. Dip first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat to a golden brown. Drain and serve hot on a folded napkin. Garnish with sliced lemon or parsley. Veal Croquettes. — To 1 pint of chopped cold veal (beef may be used) add one-half pint of cream, or rich milk may be used ; to this Quantity put 1 tablespoonful butter creamed with one tablespoonful flour. Put all save the meat over the fire to thicken ; season it to taste, and pour over the meat; mix thoroughly and fprm into shape; roll in bread or cracker-crumbs and fry brown, or, if preferred, bake. Idver Croquettes. — Take what was left of the liver from break- fast and the remains of any cold meat from dinner to "piece out." Chop fine and mix with the gravy that was left over. Season with a little pepper and salt and onion juice, or minced onion. Add as much mashed potato as you have meat, season to taste, roll into shape and dip into beaten eggs, then into bread crumbs. Fry a light brown quickly. Drain carefully and serve. Bread crumbs jnay be used in place of potato. If gravy is not convenient, use a little hot water with a teaspoonful of butter melted in it. Sbad-Koe Croquettes. — Wash 2 shad roes, put in a saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, cover and let simmer slowly for 15 minutes. Take them up, remove the skin and mash them. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 265 Put a cupful of milk in a saucepan and set on the stove to boil. Thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed together ; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, take from the fire, season with salt, cayenne, black pepper and minced parsley, turn out on a large dish. When cool, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten egg, whites left over, then in grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling | fet. Cod's Roe Croquettes. — Make same as shad-roe croquettes. Fish Croquettes. — One pint of cold boiled fish (any kind will do), free from skin and bones, and mince fine ; 1 pint of hot mashed potatoes, 1 large tablespoonful of butter, half a cup of hot milk, 1 egg well beaten, pepper and salt and a little chopped parsely ; mix thor- oughly and let cool ; when cold make into balls ; dip into a beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot lard. Drain, garnish with parsley, and serve. If desired, serve with a cream sauce. Codflsb Croquettes. — One cup hot mashed potatoes, one-half cup shredded codfish, 1 egg, a dash of pepper. Add the fish to the mashed potatoes without freshening, then the egg, beating till light and creamy. Shape into croquettes, roll in dried bread crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, then in crumbs again. Fry in wire basket, with fat just at smoking point. Drain on brown paper. Serve in hot platter with parsley garnish. Canned Salmon Croquettes.^Open a pound can of salmon, turn out in a dish, chop fine, drain, remove bones, add a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of half a lemon and a dash of cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of milk in a saucepan and set on the fire to boil, thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and 3 of flour rubbed together, let cook 10 minutes, season with a little salt and pepper, and mix with the salmon ; turn out on a dish to cool. When firm, form into croquettes, dip first in beaten egg, then in grated bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Take up, drain, serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. Oyster Croquettes. — Put 2 dozen fresh oysters in a saucepan in their own liquor, and set over the fire to boil for 6 minutes. Take 'from the fire and drain, chop the oysters fine. Put a gill of cream and oyster liquor each in a saucepan and set over the fire. Thicken vith 2 tablespoonfuls of flour and 1 of butter rubbed together ; add the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, stir for 1 minute, season with a little salt 2«8 CR0QUETTB5 AN© FRITFERS. and cayenne and a tablespoonful of minced parsley; mix well, turn out on a large, flat dish. When cool, form into cylinders, dip first in beaten egg, thpQ in grated cracker, and fry brown in boiling fat. Lobster Croquettes. — One lobster boiled, or 1 can of lobster, 2 eggs, 1 teacupful bread crumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. Salt and cayenne pepper to taste. (Instead of pepper some cooks add 1 jteaspoonful pustard.) Chop the lobster meat fine, add bread crumbs, the seasoning and the butter. Mix with the yolk of 1 egg. Make into oblong croquettes. Beat the remainder of the eggs and dip the croquettes first in them and then in bread crumbs and fry to a light brown. Drain off fat by laying upon a hot clean paper before dishing. Clam Croquettes. — Scald the clams 6 minutes in their own liquor. Drain, and chop fine, then mix with the following cream sauce : One tablespoonful of butter blended with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Season with salt, a pinch of ground mace and a dash of cay- enne. Stir over the fire until it thickens, then add the beaten yolk of an egg and 1 teaspoonful chopped parsley. ,Stir until very thick and turn out to cool. When cold, shape into balls, or cones, dip in egg, then in bread crumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Cream Chestnut Croquettes; — Fifty Spanish chestnuts, one- half cupful cream, 3 tablespoonfuls butter, 4 eggs, one-half teaspooB ful salt. Shell, blanch and boil the chestnuts 30 minutes. Drain and pound the chestnuts fine in a mortar. Add the butter and salt by degrees, pounding until it is "mixed to a paste. Add the cream, a little at a time, working or pounding thproughly. Beat 3 of the eggs light and beat into the other ingredients. Put the mixture into a double boiler and cook 8 or 10 minutes, stirring constantly. It should be smooth and thick at the end of this time if the water in the outer boiler has been boiling rapidly. Spread it on a large platter and set away to cool. When the mixture is cold, butter the hands slightly and shape the mixtuce into cylinders, cones or balls. Dip these in the fourth egg (beaten) and then in fine bread crumbs. Fry for one minute and a half. Arrange on a warm napkin and serve at once. Bice and Meat Croquettes. — 1 cupful of boiled rice, 1 cupful of finely chopped and cooked meab-^ahy kind — 1 teaspoonful of salty a little pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of milk, 1 egg. Put the milk on to boil, and add the meat, rice, and seasoning. When CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 267 this boils, add the egg, well beaten; stir 1 minute. After cooling, shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry as before directed. Rice Croquettes. — Take 1 pint of boiled rice ; add 1 egg, salt and pepper ; beat well ; drop by spoonfuls into hot lard, and fry. a deep brown. If liked, sprinkle with powdered sugar. Bice Croquettes, Trith Parmesan Sauce. — Boil half a pint of rice in a quart of stock until the stock is all absorbed; add a table- spoonful of minced parsley, 2 of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, and ail seasoning of salt and cayenne. Turn out to cool, and when cool mould into croquettes and cook as usual. ' Parmesan Sauce. — Make a sauce of a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, a gill each of stock and milk, and 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese ; season with cayenne, and serve poured around the croquettes. Green Com Croquettes. — One quart tender green corn, grated ; 1 cup of sifted flour, one cup sweet milk, 5 scant tablespoonfuls but- ter, 2 eggs, 1 saltspoonful salt, same of pepper. Grate corn as fine as possible, and mix with the flour and pepper and salt. Warm the milk and melt the butter in it. Add the corn, stir hard, and let cool. Then stir the eggs beaten jsery light, the whites last. Work into small oval balls, and fry in plenty of hot butter. Drain, and serve hot. Parsnip Croquettes. — Mash cold, boiled parsnips and form into small cakes, dip into beaten egg and bread crumbs, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, and fry to a light brown. Serve very hot. Oyster plant, potatoes, squash, turnips and carrots are equally nice served in this way, and if the quantity of the vegetables is insuflicient, add finely grated bread crumbs, mix well and season thoroughly. Macaroni Croquettes. — Half pound of macaroni broken into bits. Put in boiling salted, water, and boil 20 minutes rapidly. Drain, and throw into cold water to blanch for 15 minutes. Make a cream sauce of half pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter blended with 4 even tablespoonfuls cf flour. Put the milk in a double boiler and stir in the butter and flour ; cook until a pa^te. Then add a beaten ^ZZ '< cook for a moment. Take from the fire, add 2 tablespoonfuls ef grated cheete, a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. Drain and shake the macaroni,, Got kinto half-inch pieces ; stir these into 4he mixture, and %iath. out to cool. When cbld/ farm into cro^ettes ; 268 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. dip first into egg and then in bread crumbs, and fry in smokJng-hot fat. This quantity will make 18 good-sized croquettes. Potato Croquettes. — Take 4 cold mealy potatoes, crumble them through a sieve and beat up well with 2 tablespoonfuls of cream ; add salt and pepper and chopped parsley. Bind the mixture with an egg well beaten, then make into small cakes and fry in boiling butter or lard. Serve very hot, garnished with parsley. Sweet Potato Croquettes. — Boil, mash and season sweet potatoes with isalt, butter and cream. Add the white of 1 or 2 eggs, according to the quantity of potato used, and cream the mixture. Make into pats, dip each into the beaten yolks of the eggs and roll them in sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and fry until brown in a wire basket. Egg Croquettes. — Egg croquettes'are a delicate dish for luncheon. Cut some hard-boiled eggs into dice a quarter of an inqh in size. Mix them with some chopped mushrooms, if convenient. Stir care- fully into a white sauce. Turn the mixture into a cold dish to stiffen. Mix into croquettes. Fry in hot fat. Fritters. Fritters should be fried in the same quantify of lard that is re- quired for croquettes and doughnuts. The lard should be boiling hot so that the fritter will rise quickly to the top. Send to the table im- mediately, as they become heavy by standifag.' Some of them are v^ry nice for dessert served with appropriate pudding sauces, or with powdered sugar, syrup or hard sauce. Others are suitable for side- dishes to accompany meat. Be sure that the batter is not tpo thick, or else it will be too bpown on the outside before the center is cooked. Do not put a fork in them, as this would cause them to absorb lard. Remove with a. skimmer or split spoon. ' Fritter Batter. — ^Two Well-beaten egg yolks, 1 cup of cold water. Beat into 8 tablespoonfuls of flour. If very thick, add more water ; add 1 tablespoonful melted butter and half teaspoonful salt. Beat weir, then add the beaten whites of the 2 eggs, and beat again. The batter should pour thickly from the spoon. Some 'cooks use 1 table- spoonful of olive oil instead, of butter, claiming that .it makes the fritters crisp. Have the kettle of fat deep enough to float the fritters, the batter is equally good for apples, banana, orange, or any kind of fritters, and is also good for dipping frogs' legs in for frying. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 269 Dessert Fritters. — One pint of milk, 3 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, flbur enough to make a thick batter: beat the milk and flour together, add the beaten yolks and a teaspoonful of salt, and last the whites, beaten very light; drop by spoonfuls into, a frying-pan with plenty of boiling lard and fry till they puff away up. Eat hot with hard sauce, although | children think them superlatively good sim- ply spread with butter and sugared. Omit- ting the sweet sauce, these fritters can be served plain with meats. This rule can be varied by making it with sour milk and soda, using only 2 eggs and 1 teaspoon- ful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, add to the Moulds for Fritters, batter 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Clam Fritters. — Take 25 clams from shell ; if very large, cut in two, lay them on a " folded napkin to drain ; put into a basin a pint of flour, add 2 well-beaten eggs, half pint of sweet milk, 1 cup of clam liquor; beat the batter until smooth; then stir in the clams. Put plenty of lard or beef fat into a frying-pan, let it become boiling hot, put in batter by spoonful, brown on both sides and serve. Oyster Fritters. — Make a batter of 3 eggs, 1 pint of milk, 1 pint of flour and ?. little salt ; dip the oysters into the batter and fry quickly in hot lard ; drain on brown paper and serve garnished with parsley. Crab Fritters. — For a 1-pound can use 2 eggs, well beaten ; a good half teacup of milk, a lump of butter size of an egg (melted), a pinch of cayenne pepper and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered crackers. Mix with crab meat and fry in butter. This makes 7 good-sized' fritters. Fish Roe Fritters. — Remove the skin from the boiled roe, beat it up, season with salt and pepper, add about a quarter of its bulk in fine bread crumbs, a teaspoon or so of minced parsley, and a couple, of raw eggs ; drop the mixture from a tablespoon into boiling butter' or fat, and fry lightly on both sides. (See Shad-Roe Croquettes for preparing the roe.) Calves' Brain Fritters. — Take the brains of the calf's head, which should be removed before cooking, boil them 30 minu^es^ 270 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. drain, chop and mijc them with a batter made^ with 1 egg, a little salt, 1 cup of milk and flour enough to make a thin batter. Fry like fritters. Luncheon dish or an entree. Pork Fritters.— A nice breakfast dish. Have some thin slices of pork freshened. Fry out 1 or 2' slices to obtain fat for frying the renjainder. Dip each slice in a batter of Indian meal and flour, drop into the bubbling fat, seasohing with pepper. Cook until brown, and serve hot. The batter may be made of 1 beaten egg, a tablespoon- ful of flour, a cup of sweet milk, meal sufficient to make a fritter batter. Season with salt and a sprinkle of pepper. Beef Fritters.^Cut cold roast beef into fine shreds. Mak6 a batter of 1 egg, well beaten, 1 cup of water or soup stock, 1 tea- spoonful butter, flour enough to make a batter of ordinai-y thickness. Season with pepper and salt. Add the shredded beef; drop by small spoonfuls into hot lard. Fry brown, serve hot with a slice of lemon or some crisp dressed lettuce. Tongue Fritters. — Slice cold boiled tongue, make a batter as for Beef Fritters. Dip the slices of tongue in the batter and fry a nice brown on both sides in hot beef driopings or other fat. Serve hot wij;h sliced lemon. Ham Fritters. — ^^One cuft ^f cold minced ham, 1 e|^g, 1 cup of soup stock, a saltspoonful pf dry mustard, a teaspoonful of Worces- tershire sauce, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful of flour. Heat the stock to boiling point and thicken with butter and- flour, rubbed together ; stir into it the haM with the seasoning ; add the beaten egg. Let boil for a minute J remove from fire to cool. When cold make ■ into small batls, drop into a batter made of one cup of flour, two tea- spoonfuls of melted butter, a small cup of warm water, the beaten white of an egg and a, saltspoonful of salt. Fry in boiling fat and serve at once. A luncheon or a side dish. Potato Fritters. — Beat up very light some. cold mashed-'potatoes, add a little salt, 2 eggs, half a cup of milk and flour enough to make it the consistency of pancake batter. Beat very smooth, then drop by spoonfuls into hot lard and fry to a light brown. Tomato Fritters. — Cook together half a can of tomatoes, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper and half a teaspoonful of sugar. After cooking 10 minutes, stir into it a , tablespoonful of flour and one of butter that have been previously blended. Cook 3 minutes longer CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 271 and rub through a strainer. Spread on a platter 4 slices of svale bread, and pour the strained tomato over them. Let this stand for half an hour, then turn the slices. Beat one egg, and dip the toast first in the egg, then in bread crumbs. After that put them into the fi-ying basket and cook in boiling fat 2 minutes. Drain well and serve hot, Sumiaer Squash Fritters. — Peel and boil tender young summer squash. Drain and rub through a colander ; to a quart of the pulp add a tablespoonful of butter, 2 eggs, salt and pepper to season ; make into small flat cakes and fry a light brown in boiling fat, drain on paper ^ and serve hot. Celery Fritters. — Cut up into two-inch lengths the tender white part of a dozen or so stalks of celery, the nearer the heart the better, and plunge them into scalding water, Boil for a quarter of an hour, then take them out of the hot water, drain them, and dip each separ- ately into a batter made as for Beef Fritters. Fry in hot fat, taking up as fast as the batter takes on a golden color. Drain on an inverted sieve, or paper. Serve hot on a folded napkin laid on a platter. "fereen Com Fritters. — One dozen ears of corn, grated and scraped, or canned corn may be used by draining and mashing the kernels with a potato masher ; 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoon- fuls of melted butter, salt to taste ; stir, add 2 eggs, beaten separately, and a cupful of sweet milk, a spoonful at a time. Bake on a well- greased griddle and turn. Test a little at first and add more flour, if necessary. One tablespoonful of sugar is an improvement to most tastes. Another and better way to fry is to have ready a deep frying pan, nearly full of boiling lard. Drop in the batter a spoonful at a time. When a pale brown, remove with a strainer and lay on a hot dish for a moment to drain. Send to the table at once. Green Pea Fritters* — Canned peas will do. Three cups of cooked peas, mash while hot with a spoon, seasoning with salt, pepper and butter; put by until morning; make a batter of 2 whipped eggs, a *cup of milk, a quarter teaspoonful of soda, a half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and half -a cupful of flour; stir this with the pea mixture, beating hard and cook like griddle cakes. One teaspoonful of baking powder may be substituted for the other rising. Cucumlier Fritters. — A modern way of serving cucumbers is in the iorm of fritters. For this, peel and grate, pressing out all the 272 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. juice. Add half a teacup of rich, sweet cream, half a pint of flour, 1 gill of melted butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Beat 4 eggs sep- arately, add to the batter, and fry as other fritters. They closely re- semble fried oysters. Hominy Fritters. — Beat an egg and a little milk into a cupful of cold pearl hominy. Add salt and flour ; drop by spoonfuls in hot butter. Spinach Fritters. — Take well-cooked spinach and mince it. To each cupful take one-half cup of bread crumbs, 1 scant teaspoonful of sugar and a dash of nutmeg. Add a cupful of cream, 2 eggs and as much flour as will make the mixture a consistent batter, and stir in with the flour a teaspoonful of good baking powder. Drop into boiling fat and let fry till brown. Serve hot. Cauliflower Fritters. — Boil a cauliflower for a few minutes only, separate it into sprigs, and let these lie in a bath, or " marinade " of seasoned vinegar for a short time. Then drain; and dip each one into a batter made with 1 beaten egg, a little flour and a spoonful of milk. Fry in boiling fat until of a delicate brown, pile them in the center of a dish and place cutlets around. Fruit Fritters. — The best batter for fruit fritters is made as fol- lows : — Mix the yolks'of 2 eggs with a tablespoonful of sweet oil, an even saltspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of lemon juicp, 2 teaspoons of sugar. After mixing these ingredients add a cup of flour, and little by little a gill of cold water. The batter may now be set aside or the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff" froth may be stirred into it at once. If it seems too thick, add another white of an egg. It must be just the proper consistency to coat the fruit thoroughly. The fruit can be sliced and dipped in the batter, or cut fine and stirred in the batter, which is then dropped by spoonfuls in the hot fat. Oranges should be cut iri small pieces and seeded. Powdered sugar and cream may be served with them. Peaches are extra nice served in this manner. Melted butter can be used in place of oil. Orange Fritters. — ^Four oranges, batter as above. Peel the oranges, being careful to take off" all the white pith. Divide through the natural divisions of the orange. Seed if necessary, but a seedless orange is best. Dip each piece into batter and fry deep yellow, in plenty of lard made hot for the purpose ; serve on napkin with pow- dered sugar. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 273 Currant Fritters. — (Very nice.) — Two cups dry, fine bread crumbs ; 2 tablespoonfuls prepared flour ; 2 cups of milk ; one-half pound currants, washed and well dried ; 5 eggs whipped very light and the yolks strained; one-half cup powdered sugar ; 1 tablespoofiful butter; one-half teaspoonful mixed cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil the milk and pour over the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. Beat in, next, the yolks and sugar, the seasoning, flour and stiff whites ; finally, the currants dredged whitely with flour. The batter should be thick. Drop in great spoonfuls into the hot lard and fry. Drain them and send hot to table. Eat with wine sauce, or some other preferred pudding sauce. Peach, Fritters. — A favorite New England delicacy is called peach fritters. Make a batter from 1 quart of flour, 1 cup of luke- warm milk and three-quarters of a yeast cake dissolved in a little water. Set to rise in a warm place : this will take from 4 to 5 hours. When light add to the mixture 3 well-beaten eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a little salt. Mix with the hands as you wOuld raise biscuit. Break off small pieces of the dough and spread out thin with the hand. In the center place a peach that has been cut in half and the stone removed. Roll the dough around it to make a ball and leave on the moulding board to rise the second time. When again light fry slowly in very hot lard. The fritters are to be eaten with powdered sugar or a liquid lemon sauce. Pineapple Fritters. — Separate 2 eggs ; add to the yolks 1 cup of cream. Put 1 ^ cups flour in a bowl ; add, mixing all the while, 1 tablespoonful of melted butter ; stir in the eggs and milk. Beat hard ; add }l teaspoonful of salt ; stir in carefully the well-beaten whites. Pare the pineapple several hours before frying time. Cut it into thin slices ; cover with sugar, and, if you like, a little wine. When ready to use, add 1 level teaspoonful of baking powder to batter, dip each slice of pineapple, and fry in smoking hot oil. Drain on paper ; serve with powdered sugar. Other fat can be substituted for the oil. Pineapple Fritters. — II. Take a small can of shredded pineapple, and turn it Into a mixing bowl ; add the beaten yolk of an egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a scant pint of flour, and cold water sufficient to make' a batter that will drop from the end of a spoon. Just before baking stir the white of the egg beaten stiff into this bat- COOK— 18 274 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. ter, and fry like doughnuts in a kettle of boiling fat. Lift out with a skimmer ; lay on brown paper for a moment and dust with powdered sugar. Serve with wine sauce. Strawberry Fritters.^ — Stem nice, solid, large berries; dust them with sugar, add a few drops of lemon juice. Beat 2 eggs without separating, add 1 gill of milk, a tablespoonful melted butter, and sufficient flour to make a light batter (1 cup). Add % teaspoonful salt, an even teaspoonful baking powder and beat well. Toss in a few berries, cover them with the batter, and drop carefully in smoking hot oil. Serve hot, dusted with powdered sugar. Hot lard can be used instead of oil. Have it at least 2 inches deep in the kettle. Fry a gold color. Pear Fritters. — Cook some pears tender in syrup, drain and cool, cut in quarters, dip in fritter batter, fry brown in hoflat and serve with powdered sugar or sweet sauce. Apple Fritters. — Core and pare large tart apples. Cut them in slices about on6-third of an inch thick.- Season the slices with nut- meg, then ~dip them in the batter. See Fruit Fritters. Dipt them one by one from the batter and drop them into the hot fat. ' Cook for 3 minutes, then, lift from the fat, drain and serve immediately. Pow- dered sugar may be sprinkled on the fritters when they are arranged on the dish. Maple syrup is als6 nice to serve with them. Peach fritters are made in the same way. If apples that cook easily cannot be obtained, cover with water and cQpk until half done. Drain and ,cp6l. If a sauce is desired with the fritters, make one as follows: Sauce : One-half cup brown sugar, one-half cup water ; when boiling add 1 teaspoonful cornstarch dissolved in cold water ; flavor with 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. It is an improvement to sprinkle the apples with lemon juice before dipping in the batter. A nice dessert. ; Banana Fritters.— Make the fruit fritter batter, or any preferred batter. Slice bananas about one-half inch thick"; dip into the batter and fry in hot lard. Sprinkling the bananas with a little lemon or orange juice will iiiiprpve the flavor. Take up each slice of banana with about a spoonful of the batter. Sift powdered sugar over them and serve. A dainty dessert. If a sauce is wished, the following is suitable. Lemon Sauce : Boil 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water together 15 minutes; remove from the stove, and, when cooled a little, aiid. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. 275 one-half teaspoon extract of lemon and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice ; more juice can be added, if liked quite tart. Apricot Fritters. — Cover with water and stew evaporated apri- cots until tender, adding when half done sugar in the proportion of 2 tablespoons to every cup of juice. When the apricots are tender take them out, leaving the syrup to reduce by boiling until quite thick. Dip each piece of apricot into a frying batter made of a cup of flour, a tablespoon of melted butter, a sijiall cup of warm milk and the white of an egg beaten light. Drop these fritters into boiling deep fat. When done lay on a piece of brown paper in a colander a few minutes. Transfer to a hot dish and pour hot syrup over them. Coffee Fritters. — Soak in strong freshly-made coffee some thick slices of stale bread. Beat up the yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, flavoring them with sugar and a few drops of strong coffee ; brush the slices of bread with this, and fry at once in hot butter ; when crisp, serve hot, sprinkled with sifted sugar. Bread Fritters. — One quart milk, boiling hot ; 2 cups fine bread crumbs ; 3 eggs ; 1 teaspoonful nutmeg ; 1 tablespoonful melted butter; 1 saltspoonful salt, and the same of soda, dissolved in hot water. Soak the bread in the boiling milk 10 minutes in a covered bowl. Beat to a smooth paste ; add the whipped yolks, the butter, salt, soda and finally the whites, whipped stiff. Drop by spoonfuls in boiling lard. Serve with hard sauce. Cream Fritters. — Stir the whites of 5 eggs, 1 cup of thin cream, 2 full cups of flour and one-quarter teaspoonful of salt together and beat hard for three minutes. Fry in plenty of hot lard, using a table- spoonful of batter for each fritter. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and put a spoonful of jelly or jam on each one when served. Cream Puff Fritters. — A very nice fritter is made from a batter similar to that used for cream cakes and eclaires. Put a cup of milk, or water, over the fire with 2 tablespoons of butter. When the mix- ture boils add one-half cup of sifted flour and stir thoroughly. Then add a teaspoon of sugar and a saltspoon of salt, and when the batter has cooled a little add the jrolks of 4 eggs, and finally the whites of 2 ' eggs. The batter should be stiff enough to roll out on a board. _^Cut it in fritters the size of an English walnut and fry. They rise to an immense size, as they are merely shells. These can be made with just a stiff batter and dropped by spoonfuls in the fat. 276 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERa Custard Fritters. — A custard fritter is a very delicate variety. Measure out a cupful of milk, add it to half a cupful of flour, poqr- ing the milk over it very gradually to make a smooth batter. Then add a well-beaten egg, and cook the batter in a double boiler for 20 minutes. At the end of this time add 2 yolks of eggs, a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let the mixture boil up over the stove for a minute or two longer, beating it carefully to thoroughly mix it. Pour it into a long, greased pan of proper size, and spread it to the depth of 1 inch. Let it become thoroughly chilled. It is just as well to stand over night. The next day cut it in long pieces, about 2 inches by 3; dip it in beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs, handling it very gently, as it is soft. Fry it in hot fat until it is a golden brown, and serve at once. These are delicious fritters when flavored with a very little bitter almond or some grated orange peel. They may be made into an excellent, savory fritter by omitting the sugar and adding a table- spoonful of Parmesan cheese and a pinch of scayenne pepper. Serve with a little grated Parmesan cheese. Jam Fritters.- — Any sweet , raised dough may be used, rusk or buns. Let rise until very light. Roll out very thin. Cut in circles with a cooky cutter. Heap a teaspoonful of raspberry jam in the center of half the circles. Moisten the edges of the other circles with water and put them carefully over those which have been heaped with jam, pressing the edges very carefully together. Fry the fritters at once in hot fat, dredge them with sugar and serve. i Bread Fritters. — Shape raised bread dough in light, round cakes, and leave on the bread-board to rise for a short time. Fry in deep fat like a doughnut. Serve with maple syrup. Grabam Fritters. — Make a regular muffin batter. Have a'kettle of hot fat, deep enough and hot enough to cook doughnuts. Dip a tablespbon into milk, take up a spoonful of the batter, smooth it in rounded form on top, and slip it carefully into the smoking fat, hold- , ing the tablespoon quite near the fat. Then dip the tablespoon in milk again and repeat the operation until about 6 muffins (or half the batter) are in the kettle. Turn the muffins and let them cook about 10 minutes. Take them up with a wire spoon to drain them, and lay them on coarse brown paper to absorb any grease on the outside. Fry the remaining muffins and serve them. The true value of salads is n6t yet wholly appreciated, nor yet the different combina- tions of which they are susceptible, nor the f"' little economies which they may tastefully mask, nor the epicurean extravagance to which they may cater. Granted that lettuce be the leading green ; by the addition of fish, meat, Vegetables, etc., upward of a hundred different salads may be con- cocted. When lettuce is not available, celery supplies its place, though in rather mediocre fashion. Fresh salads should not lie long in water, the withered only long enough to crisp the leaves. The outer ones to be thrown away, the inner ones to be parted, well rinsed and examined, and if necessary plunged into salt and water for a few min- utes. This may free the leaves from any insects that may cling to them. Lettuce can be kept crisp and fresh for several days if necessary by placing the roots in water. Do not let the water come up as high as the leaves. When ready to serve the lettuce wash it, leaf by leaf, in a pan of cold water and drop each le^f into another pan of ice water. It will become crisp in a few minutes. Shake the water from the leaves before serving. It is not necessary to have fresh and green things for all salads. It is often the case that a small portion of food left over from a meal can be used to make a nice salad. A saucer of cold beans, either baked or boiled, especially limas, a couple of cold potatoes with a small minced onion, some chopped parsley, a slice or two of beet and a hard-boiled egg ; a little cold fish freed from bones and skin ; cold veal, lamb or chicken, will each make a nice salad with, the aid of a few lettuce leaves, a little chopped celery (for the meat salads) and a ipayonnaise. A bottle of good salad dressing is a good thing to have in the house for use in emergencies, but if you are an adept at making mayonnaise you will prefer, as a rule, to make your own dressing. Convenience, utility and toothsomeness are among the qualifica- tions of good salads, but when we add to these their unquestioned 277 278 SALADS. claims toward the healthful nourishment of the human body, we have an article of food not to be lightly treated. "Salad is nature's lubri- cant for the animal machine," says Mrs. Rorer, one of the modern authorities on cookery. " People who do not eat salads have pimples and blotches and headaches." The olive, that is the basis of all mayonnaise dressings, is one of the best healing and fattening substances to be found, and thin and nervous people especially should learn to use it freely. Salads are served at dinners as a separate course, usually having bread sticks, water crackers or toasted crackers served with them. Or, sometimes they are served with the game course. A new fad is that cream cheese, home-made currant jelly and fresh unsweetened water crackers are fashionably and most acceptably served with crisp lettuce leaves with a French dressing. The com- bination of flavors is to many tastes a very pleasant one. Every woman should learn the art of dressing a green salad at the table, for a salad dressed before it is served loses delicacy of flavor. The salad greens should be carefully dried. It is better not to use a steel knife to cut it up if it can be avoided. Some people always pull the leaves into small pieces, others cut the lettuce with a silver fruit knife. Most people like a slight flavor of chopped or grated onion. Some rub the salad bowl with a piece of cut garlic, while others invariably use a little tarragon vinegar. The oil should be very fresh, and if the vinegar is too sour, a piece or two of sugar should be added to the dressfng. French dressing can be made at table very nicely. The salad of whatever kind must be served in a glass salad bowl, ' says custom, and it must always have at least an encircling wreath of green leaves to frame it. Meat of any kind used for salads should be cut into dice, but not smaller than one-half inch or it will seem like hash. A new way of serving any^nely cut salad is to take a large green cucumber, cut the ends off and take a slice lengthwise from one side until the heart is reached. Remove this carefully and fill the little green boat with salad. Let it rest on a bed of lettuce leaves and serve one to each persen present. Vegetable salads are delicious and serve to spur the jaded appe- tite. Speaking in generalities, the principal vegetables and their ap- SALABS. 279 propriate dressings are as follows : Asparagus, cauHftower, tomatoea are served with mayonnaise. Cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce, dandelion, green beans, cooked, are served with French dressing. Potato salad with cream dressing. Cabbage and tomatoes also may be served with a boiled dressing. These rules, however, are not arbitrary, as there are other delicious made dressings used with these salads. Chicken Salad. — One large, cold, boiled chicken, 3 heads of celery, white part, cut in small dice. Equal amount of white cab- bage, chopped. Remove skin and fat from the chicken, cut the light and dark meat in small dice and drop the whites of the eggs. Mix all together. Dressing. — Ten hard-boiled eggs, 1 tablespoonful ground mustard, 1 teaspoonful, level, of black pepper, one-half teaspoonful salt, two- thirds cupful salad oil or melted butter, 1 cupful vinegar. Rub the yolks^ of the eggs with the oil or butter (oil taken from the chicken liquor is better in this case than either), stir in the mustard, pepper, salt and vinegar. Mix this dressing up with the salad. Shape; as compactly in the salad bowl as possible. Garnish with a double row of olives (serve two or three with each helping of salad), or with some greens. Cabbage can be used entirely if celery is not conve- nient. In this case a hewing teaspoonful of celery seed soaked over night in the vinegar will improve the flavor. Strain before using. Equal parts of chicken and veal make a delicious salad, and are very convenient where the chicken is scanty. Lean, fresh pork can be used to " piece out." Chicken Salad with Cooked Dressing. — ^Take 1-pound can of chicken, cut fine and season to taste with salt and pepper ; take the perfect, outer leaves of a head of lettuce to place on the salad dish, and the inner crisp leaves cut fine, and mix with the seasoned chicken. Wash all the lettuce ; place the mixed chicken and lettuce on the leaves in the dish and put in a cobl place until ready to serve. It is best to make the dressing in the morning, cool and not mix the salad until wanted, as the lettuce will not keep crisp long. Dressing.-^¥o\ir well-beaten eggs, half teaspoonful salt, 1 level teaspoonful mustard, dissolving in 1 tablespoonful vinegar, 3 tea- spoonfuls sugar, lialf cupful vinegar, half cupful sour cream, half cupful vinegar. Cook by putting bowl in a pan of boiling water, stir constantly until it thickens, cool before pouring over salad. 280 SALADS. Chicken Salad witli Cream Dressing. — Make the salad -accord* ing to the first rule, using, if it is to be a company dish, the white meat only, and for dressing take Cream Dressing, given in "Salad Dressings." Do not mix up with the sakd, but pour over the top. Chicken Salad en Mayonnaise. — ^Boil a chicken until it is ten- der. When it is cold cut the meat into small pieces. Then mix with mayonnaise dressing. Take fresh curled leftuce leaves, and in each place a generous salad spoonful of the " dressed " chicken and spread over a spoonful of mayonnaise, a sufficient quantity of this having been put aside before the mixing. Upon the yellow of the " dress- ing" on each lettuce leaf about a dozen capers should be sprinkled. Turkey Salad.— Take equal parts of the white meat of the tur- key and blanched celery, chop together until fine. Boil 3 eggs hard, remove the yolks and add the whites cut in bits to the salad. Mash the yolks of the eggs to a flour, add sweet cream gradually until you have a cup of egg cream ; flavor this with onion juicej salt and pep- per. Now add 2 tablespoonfuls- of oil and 6 of vinegar and pour over the salad. Place On ice half an hour before it goes to table. Melted butter can be used in place of the salad oil. A mayonnaise dressing can also lae used. Duck Salad. — ^A delicious salad may be made with duck. Boil a duck until it is tender and remove the meat from the bones. When cold take a sharp knife and cut the meat^into small pieces. Cook half a can of small mushrooms and cut them in quarters. Have as much crisp-cut celery as you have mushrooms. Fill a flat dish with lettuce leaves, and lay the pieces of duck on the lettuce, then the- mushrooms and the celery. Garnish the dish with sliced cucumbers and stars cut from cooked carrots. Serve with French dressing, or mayonnaise if preferred. Veal Salad. — Chop a piece of lean, cold veal (roast or boiled). Add nearly as much celery or cold boiled potatoes, cut into dice, and season with celery salt if celery cannot be obtained. Mix when cold with the following dressing: One cupful of sweet cream, 1 table" spoonful sugar. Put in a double boiler on the stove until hot. Then add 3 eggs well beaten and 1 cupful vinegar. Almost any preferred salad dressing can be used. > Corned Beef Salad.-r-Chop 1 or 2 pounds of cold corned beef fine, then take two-thirds cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon mustard and 1 SALADS. 281 egg ; beat all together and pour into the frying-pan, and let it boil up ; then stir in the chopped meat thoroughly, 'cook about 3 minutes, and put in a deep dish to cool ; cut in slices. Ham Salad.^-One cup of cold ham chopped (from which all fat has been cut away), 1 cup of sliced cucumber pickles, 3 harc^boiled eggs. Arrange ham and cucumbers in layers, saving sliced eggs for top ; pour cream dressing over ; garnish with dlives (looks well with only the eggs for garnish). Serve with the following dressings or \any other preferred one : One tablespoonful butter, 1 tablespoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar (may be omitted if wished), 1 table- spoonful fldur, a very little, red pepper, yolk of 1 egg, 1 cupful vine- gar. Heat vinegar and butter together. When boiling stir in the other ingredients, which have been previously well mixed. Cook 3 minutes. A good dressing and will keep several days if bottled. Tongue Salad. — The small end of a cold boiled tongue can be utilized for an appetizing salad. Chop fine and add an equal quantity of celery or lettuce, and dressing from any of the above rules. Cold Pork Salad, — Very nice salad can be made from th^ lean of cold roast pork. Prepare sauce as for veal salad. Ltamb Salad. — Any nice cold lamb left from dinner < an be used for this purpose. Cut into small pieces and add an equal quantity of celery or lettuce shredded fine, or coW boiled potatoes cut into dice and seasoned with celery salt. For the dressing take 1 tablespoon- ful of butter, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 2 eggs well beaten, 1 table- spoonful of flour, half a teacupful of vinegar. Cook until it thickens. Sweet-Bread Salad. — Clean and cook a pair of sweet-breads ac- cording to directions given in " Meats." When cold slice, mix with chopped lettuce or celery, and one-half the amount of cold boiled potatoes sliced. Serve with any prepared dressing. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves. Oyster and Celery Salad. — One quart of oysters drained and cut in dice, 1 bunch of celery cut in bits. Keep the oysters in a cool place. Dressing. — One raw egg, yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs, 1 table- spoonful olive oil or melted butter, 1 teaspoonful each of pepper, salt and made mustard, half a cupful of vinegar. Whip the raw ^g^ with the oil or butter. Rub the hard boiled yolks with the seasoning. Mix with the raw egg and beat in the vinegar slowly. Mix the oysters and celery together with one-half the dressing. Turn in the 282 SALADS. salad, first lining it with lettuce leaves. Pour over it the remainder of the dressing. Garnish. Ijobster Salad. — Take a good sized fresh boiled lobster, cut into small pieces with a sharp knife. Take 1 large or 2 small heads of lettuce, wash, cut the tender inside leaves in small pieces and mix with the lobster and some of the dressing. Take a flat dish and arrange the larger leaves (not the outside ones) in shells, and put a large spoonful in each with a spoonful of dressing on top. ' Dressing. — One tablespoonful mustard, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter or olive oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet or sour milk, 1 cupful of vinegar, 2 eggs. Mix the mustard in part of the vinegar, add the rest of the vinegar and sugar. Beat the eggs and butter and stir in the milk, then stir the whole into the vinegar and mustard, add a pinch of salt and set on the stove to boil. Stir briskly or it will burn. This must be very cold before using. This dressing is also good on chicken salad, substituting cold boiled chicken for lobster. It is better not to mix the lobster and lettuce until just before serving. Set on ice until wanted. liObster Salad. — II. The meat from 2 boiled lobsters picked fine. Mix with' the same quantity of lettuce, cabbage or celery cut fine. Or, instead of mixing, put lobster and lettuce or cabbage in the dish in alternate layers. Make the following dressing and pour over the whole when ready to serve. Dressing. — Yolk of 3 hard boiled eggs rubbed fine, 3 tablespoon- fuls of melted butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful each of mustard, pepper and salt, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of vinegar. Beat together ,thoroughly. Garnish the salad bowl with the whites of the eggs cut in rings. Lay each white ring on a small, curly lettuce leaf The small claws x>f the lobster are also used by some with the green garnish. Salmon Salad. — One can of salmon, drain from the oil. The same amount of celery or lettuce chopped, pick the salmon in flakes. Arrange the salmon and celery in layers in the salad bowl, and pour over it the following dressing : Dressing. — One-quarter cupful vinegar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1^ tablespoonful sugar, 1 tablespoonful>^ flour, 2 well-beaten eggs, pepper and salt to taste. Some cooks omit sugar ; some use cayenne pep- per. If too thick, thin carefully with a little milk or cream. SALADS. 283 Fish Salad. — Nearly all kinds of cold fish can be made into salads. Free the fish from skin and bone, flake or chop coarsely. Add to it the same quantity of chopped cabbage, celery or lettuce. Line the salad bowl with lettuce leaves, if convenient. Heap in the salad lightly and pour over it mayonnaise or some preferred salad dressing; some of those used for salmon dressing will be found good Garnish with tiny pickles and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Crab Salad. — Boil 25 hard-shell crabs for about 20 or 25 minutes. When cool remove the top shell and tail ; quarter the remainder, and pick out the meat carefully with a fork. The large claws should not be overlooked, nor the fat which adheres tq the shell. Cut up an amount of celery equal in bulk to the crab meat; mix both together with a plain salad dressing. Put in a salad bowl, and mask with a mayonnaise dressing ; garnish with crab claws, shrimps and hard- boiled eggs. Anchovy Salad. — Remove the bones, head and tails of 6 anchovies. Wash 2 heads of lettuce, cut them small, and place on a dish. Add 6 button onions chopped finely, parsley, sliced lemon, and anchovies. Pour over the juice of a lemon mixed with a tablespoonful of oil. Shrimp Salad. — Line a salad bowl with fresh lettuce leaves ; open a can of shrimps, put on the lettuce, pour over mayonnaise dressing, garnish with rings of hard-boiled eggs. Egg Salad. — Chop heart lettuce, or else tender cabbage, or celery or a mixture, and season with salt, pepper and vinegar (oil if liked), and with a teaspoon place it as a border on the dishes. Slice hard- boiled eggs and put 4 slices to each individual dish. Pour over the eggs either a salad dressing made without oil or a mayonnaise. Or use this : Take a bowl that will fit the top of your tea-kettle; put in it 1 egg, beaten thoroughly, quarter cup of vinegar, half teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoonful of mustard. Steam it over the kettle until it thickens like cream. When cold pour over the eggs and sprinkle pepper over the whole. The eggs may be sliced. Sardine Salad en Mayonnaise. — Chop very fine a small head of cabbage and 4 or 5 sardines ; cover with a mayonnaise dressing and serve on lettuce leaves with a whole sardine on top of each one. Any lobster salad dressing can be used in place of the mayonnaise. Chestnut Salad. — Made from the large Italian chestnuts. These are blanched and peeled and cooked until tender, in boiling water, 284 SALADS. slightly salted. They are then taken out and carefully dried, when they are sliced and tossed into a little mayonnaise and shirred on let- tuce hearts. Try this for an entree of your Thanksgiving dinner, and we are convinced it will prove satisfactory. Walnut Salad. — A delicious salad combines English walnuts, water-cresses and sour oranges. You will need thirty nuts with the meats divided in halves ; lay these on a layer of the oranges, sliced thin, and sprinkle them well with lemon juice. Stand in a cool place for half a day, and when ready to use arrange in a bed of cresses, 3 pint at least, and serve with a French dressing and wafers. Celery Salad. — 'One good-sized bunch of celery; 2 tablespoon^ fuls best salad oil, 1 of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Wash and scrape the celery and lay in cold water an hour. Cut in half inch bits, or chop coarsely if preferred, and put in a salad bowl. Mix the pepper and salt, add the oil slowly and then the vinegar, and stir thoroughly into the celery. Serve with crackers and cheese. Equal parts of celery and chopped white cab- bage can be used if celery is not plentiful. Waldorf Celery Salad. — Equal quantities of celery and chopped raw sour apples diressed with mayonnaise dressing. This is served with game, being in reality a game salad. Alligator pears may be used instead of apples. Celery Slaw. — Take 1 root of good white celery* and cut off all the green leaves, put it in the tray and chop fine, then put it in a dish and Gait it, and put 3 tablespoons of sugar over it and the same of vinegar, and let it stand about 5 minutes, and when ready put it on the table ; put 3 tablespoons of cream over it ; it is very nice. The cream can be omitted if desired. Cabbage Salad a la Creme. — Cut a solid, tender head of cabbage very fine, and place it in a deep dish. Put in a saucepan over a rather hot fire 1 cupful of thick sour cream. Stir in while heating 1 well- beaten egg. Add half a teaspoonful each of made inustard and 'sugar, and butter the size' of an egg, with a dash of red pepper and salt. While cooking stir in half a'cupful of strong vinegar. This makes a smooth, thick dressing, with a delicate creamy taste. Pour over the cabbage while hot and mix thoroughly. One-half as much chopped celery can be added to the ca,bbage as a great improvement A little more sugar can be added to the dressing if liked. SALADS. 285 » Gabbag^e Salad, Hot, with Cooked Dressing. — One head of cab- bage chopped fine, 3 hard-boiled eggs chopped. Salt and pepper to taste. Cold Slaw. — Raw cabbage, chopped fine, seasoned with salt, pep- per, sugar, and moistened with vinegar, makes an excellent salad. It may be served with this dressing : Two level tablespoons each of salt and white sugar, 1 of black pepper, 1 of ground mustard ; rub smoothly the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs, add half a cup of butter slightly warmed, mix with the cabbage (this will be sufficient for 2 quarts) and add a teacup of vinegar. Serve with ^:he whites of the eggs sliced and placed on the salad. ' •'- ' Cold Slaw a la Creme. — Shave one-fourth of a cabbage quite fine and roll with a rolling pin to soften it ; mix thoroughly with a little salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar ; throw over this a half cupful of sweet cream, and allow it to stand before serving. Hot Slaw.: — Take one-half of a firm, white head of cabbage; cut into fine pieces and put in a pan with a teaspoonful of salt, about the same quantity of pepper and a piece of butter the size of an egg, adding a teacupful of vinegar and half that quantity of water. Cover and cook until cabbage becomes tender. Stir frequently. Potato Salad.— ^Chop 6 or 8 cold boiled potatoes, mince 1 onion. Mix with the following dressing : One-half cupful vine- gar, 1 tablespoonful melted butter, or salad oil, pepper and isalt to taste, add a little tf- i . . chopped parsley, stir thoroughly, mound it V-- up nicely on a pretty plate and put sprays ^ "^-^^^^^^^ of parsley around the edge, or serve lightly „ . ^ _„.~ ^ "^ , . , , , , \r .1 • ^. Potato Slioer. tossed in a salad bowl. If there is not ^"""-uu ouobx. enough moisture, add a little more vinegar and butter. Potatoes for a salad do not want to be too mealy. Potato Salad. — II. Slice cold boiled potatoes, 8 or 10, mince a. large onion, mix, season with pepper and salt, and pour over them in the salad bowl any of the hot boiled dressings used for cabbage slaw. Serve, hot or let become perfectly cold. Garnish with parsley. Onion can be omitted if not liked. Potato Salad with a French Dressing. — Prepare the potatoes as above, season with chopped parsley, pour over them a French dressing. 286 SALADS. Mrs. Y.'s Potato Salad Dpessinff.—Butter size of a large egg. Two medium sliced onions fried in the butter 5 minutes without browning. Yolks of 4 eggs, or 2 whole eggs, beaten light, 1 tea- spoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful sugar, half teaspoonful pepper, 1 cupful vinegar. Grate the rind of 1 lemon,, add these to the butter and onions and cook to the consistency of thick cream, taking care it ! does not burn. When cold add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or rich milk. Slice 10 or 12 medium sized cold t>oiled potatoes, turn the dressing over them just before serving. This is sufficient for a family of 8 people. Liettuce Salad. — Rub the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil (or butter), then add one-half a teaspoonful of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and one- half a teacupful of powdered sagar. Pour it over the lettuce and serve, Lieiuon Lettuce Salad. — ^A refreshing way to serve lettuce is to make a dressing flavored with lemon. First cut the lettuce small, then squeeze a small lemon or half a large one into a tumbler, add a little sugar, a little water and a good pinch of salt, and pour the mix- ture all over the lettuce. Lettuce and Egg Salad. — A nice salad is made with hard-boiled eggs, and lettuce or water-cress alternating in a dish, and covering with French dressing, or any preferred dressing. Lettuce in Southern Style. — Have the lettuce very cold and crisp and arrange in layers in a salad bowl, sprinkling each layer with the best vinegar and adding a slight powdering of fine white sugar. Tomato Salad, Cooked Dressing. — Peel and slice the tomatoes and set on ice. Make the following dressing : Yolks of 2 eggs, or 1 whole egg, lightly beaten, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 tablespoon- ful of melted-butter or salad oil, 1 teaspoonful made mustard, or half as rhuch dry mustard, 1 teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful pepper,'! cupful vinegar. Heat slowly, stirriong constantly until thick. Pour the dressing over the tomatoes when it is cold. Garnish with lettuce , or sliced hard-boiled eggs. (' Tomato Salad, Cold Dressing. — Peel and slice tomatoes, set on ice. Prepare the following dressing : 1 egg, beaten light, 2 teaspoonfuls sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar, 1 onion, minced, 1 teaspoonful salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper,' 2 tablespoonfuls salad oil, or melted butter. Mix thoroughly, adding oil last. Arrange tomatoes nicely in a salad bowl, in a bed of lettuce leaves if possible, and pour this dressing over. SALADS. 287 Mayonnaise Tomato Salad. — Pare medium, round, ripe tomatoes one for each person ; put on ice. Do not scald them.- Cut out the stem end, and scoop out a very little of the inside. Make little nests of tender, green lettuce leaves arranged- on a large, flat dish, and place a tomato in each nest. Put in the hollow (where the stem was removed) of each tomato a large teaspoonful of thick mayonnaise sauce and serve immediately. Another way is to slice the tomatoes after they are pared, arrange them on a dish, with or without lettuce leaves, pour over them mayonnaise, chop the whites of the hard- boiled eggs and scatter over the tomatoes. Garnish with parsley. When tomatoes first come and are expensive the most beautiful salad course for eight people can be made from four small tomatoes and a head of lettuce. Freshen the lettuce in cold water, have the pared tomatoes on ice. Arrange little cups of two or three leaves of the lettuce, and lay in each a half tomato. Dot with a spoonful of may- onnaise, and serve at once. Canned Tomato Salad. — Canned tomatoes drained, mixed with a little chopped or sliced onion and celery seed, and serve on lettuce leaves with French or mayonnaise dressing. Deviled Tomato Salad, Hot. — ^Two tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 teaspoonful of mustard, 1 raw egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of hot vinegar, 1 level teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper to every 3 tomatoes are needed. Select tomatoes that are large, ripe and firm, pour over them enough boiling wat^r to loosen the skins, peel, and cut in thick slices. The sauce may be served hot or cold. In combining it, cream the butter, add *to it the powdered sugar and the mustard, and mix well. Add the salt and pepper, and rub into the mixture the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. For this it is better to use a little sieve. Heat the vinegar, then add that, and finally a beaten raw egg. Set over hot water and cook until the consistency of a thick cream. When ready to use, put a tablespoonful of butter in a. stew-pan, add the slices of tomato, and when hot serve on a garnished dish, and turn the sauce over them. Tomato and Celery Salad. — Very delicate. Aft^r a heavy din- ner a meat salad is best replaced by one of tomatoes and celery that is neither^ difficult nor expensive. One can of tomatoes should be stewed with a pinch of salt for a few moments, then rubbed through 288 SALADS. a sieve and the red juice thickened with a little gelatine ; a table- spoonful is sufficient. The tomatoes can be put in mould to form, or merely left to cool and solidify in a salad bowl. If a mould is Used, turn the tomato jelly, when cold, into a salad bowl, heap round it shredded celery, and pour over jelly and celery a liberal supply of either rich mayonnaise, or cream salad dressing, and serve with small salted crackers. Vegetable Salad. — Of vegetable salads the name is legion. Almost any cold cooked vegetable can be used. The chi^f thing to remember is to obtain a contrast of color to please the eye, and, if possible, have the vegetable of delicate flavor for the main part of the salad. Asparagus, cauliflower, beans, peas and carrots combine well. Potatoes, cauliflower, beets and carrots go well together. One or two vegetables can be used alone. Use any kind of dressing, and garnish with uncooked cucumber, tomato, lettuce and any handsome fresh greens. Use any remnants of vegetables from yesterday's dinner — green peas or beans, boiled potatoes, slices of beets, green onions or celery ; cut small and heap together on leaves of fresh let- tuce. Mayonnaise dressing, cream salad dressing, etc., are all good. Beet Salad. — Take young beets, boil until tender, cut in small pieces and set on ice ; add one finely-minced onion. Make a dress- ing of 1 pint of vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of oil, salt and pepper. Have chopped fine 2 hard-boiled eggs, lay over the beets, garnish -with water-cresses, pour over the dressing and serve. Or, line a bowl with lettuce leaves, or water-cress, lay in the beets, and turn over them a teacupful of plain salad dressing. Set on ice till chilled. If liked, slice onions and alternate with the beets. Beets may be sliced and have a squeeze of lemon juice over them instead of the vinegar. Hot Beet Salad. — Boil 5 large or 8 small beets until soft; peel and slice. Put in saucepan 1 cup milk, one-half cup water, one-fourth cup vinegar, 1 tablespoonful butter, a little celery salt and a little cayenne pepper. When boiling put in beets. Water-Cress Salad. — To make a delicious water-cress salad, let some water-cress stand in cold water for half an hour until it becomes very crisp. Dry thoroughly without bruising it. Mix with a French dressing and add a few thin slices of sour apples. Water-cress is very nice served simply as a relish to be eaten with salt. SALADS. 289 Mushroom Salad. — Mince the mushrooms into dice and put them m a pan with a little oil or butter and a few slices of peeled lemon f let them simmer in this till done, then set them aside till quite cold. Now lay them in a salad dish with chopped parsley and chives, pep- per and salt, and either a French oil and vinegar dressing or a good mayonnaise. Carrot Salad.— Put 6 carrots to boil in plenty of water ; when half done remove and throw out water and put on to finish in fresh water ; when done take out, cool and cut into one-half inch dice. Make a dressing of 1 small teacupful of vinegar, 4 tablespoorifuls of melted butter, the yolk of one hard-boiled egg, with a little salt and pepper. Line a dish with crisp lettuce leaves ; add two-thirds of the dressing, then the carrot dice, then the remainder of the dvessing. A novel and ornamental dish. Cauliflower Salad. — Boil a cauliflower until it breaks easily ; let it drain until perfectly cold. Shred the heart of a white cabbage' lettuce and mince together a small onion, a few sprigs of parsley apd grate finely a tablespoonful of horseradish. Place the lettuce first in the bowl, next the sprigs of cauliflower, and sprinkle the other in- gredients over all. Mix a dressing as follows, and pour that over all : A spoonful of made mustard, the beaten yolk of an egg, 2 spoon- fuls of oil or melted butter, 1 of vinegar and a tablespoonful of salt. Spanish Salad. — (Rich). One cupful of Spanish olives chopped, 1 cupful of stalfe bread cut in dice, one-half cupful gherkins chopped, 1 cupful of mayonnaise dressing garnished with red peppers chopped fine. Bean Salad. — Young beans make an excellent salad. String them and cut in inch lengths and boil in salt and water until tender, drain well, and to a quart of beans add a chopped onion ; take 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 of salad oil or melted butter, salt and pepper to taste. Beat the vinegar and butter together, add the sea- soning and pour over the beans and onions ; mix well and set away for an hour or two before using. Baked Bean Salad. — If a jar of beans is baked once a week it will be found a good thing to have on hand. Warming over only improves them, and if one wishes a salad, chop some of the beans with a raw onion or two, dress with vinegar, melted butter, pepper and salt if found necessary or desirable. Slices of pork which were COOK— 19 290 SALADS. baked with the beans may be served with the salad. Lima beans, potatoes and boiled beats, all thoroughly chilled, can be served together in a salad. Slice potatoes and beets. Use a French dress- ing or any salad dressing. Dandelion. Sala/d. — Dandelion appears with the first days of the spring. It must be small and white to be tender and sweet. If it is old, large and green, it is tough and has become too bitter to be used for salad. Cut the root off and wash the leaves with care, as, like field salad, it contains a great deal of sand. Drain, dress with salt, pepper and vinegar, or with a regular French dressing. A slice or two of finely-tninced onion may be mixed with the dandelions. Cucumber Salad. — Cucumbers should never be placed on the table until they have been pared and sliced and laid for an hour or two in ice-water. To prepare for the table, take the salad bowl and and put in it a French dressing made with equal amounts of vinegar and oil, say 3 tablespoonfuls of each,' 1 tablespoonful of the vinegar being tarragon vinegar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspponful pepper. Stand on ice a few minutes, then stir in the sliced cucumber,, a very little finely minced onion can be added, if wished, or the bowl can be rubbed with a crushed clove of garlic, as also the salad spoon and fork. Do not mix with the dressing until just before you serve. To serve cucumbers plain, simply slice, with pepper, salt and vinegar ; to most tastes they are improved by the " addition of sliced' onions. Cucumber salad is delicious to serve with boiled or baked bass. Onion Salad. — Cut up 3 dozen young spring onions" and cover with a French dressing. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs. Savory Fruit Salads. Epicures have recently decided that fruits as well as vegetables can be served with salad dressings and make their appearance at the dinner table, masked in French or mayonnaise dressing. To prepare oranges for a salad, slice them very thin ; serve in flat plates, and let each guest prepare her own dressing of vinegar, oil, pepper and salt. Mayonnaise is a trifle too heavy- for the fibres of oranges, but it serves excellently on shaddocks (or grape fruits), that do not possess , so delicate a flavoring as their smaller relatives. When preparing the latter it is wiser to cut the slices into quarters, innocent of rind, for otherwise they are unwieldy. The small toothsome alligator pear is SALADS. 291 palatable with either dressing, but those whose palates are ha,rd to tickle lean toward the pleasant tang of vinegar and oil, unmixed with egg. A few housewives have introduced these fruits on crisp lettuce leaves ; the blending of green with yellow lends a pleasant artistic touch and the result of it being eaten together is — " not half bad." Apple Salad. — One bunch of celeiy cut fine, 3 large apples, cut in small pieces with celery. Dressing, 2 eggs, one-half cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful mustard, one-half teaspoonful salt, a little butter and pepper, 1 cup of vinegar; boil a f«:w minutes and pour over hot. Tart apples may also be cut up with young onions, with oil, vinegar and cayenne. Orange Salad. — ^Use tart oranges. Slice them very thin, cutting down the sides instead of across, arrange them in a dish with pecan or walnut meats, and pour over them a dressing made of 2 table- spoonfuls of lemon juice to 3 of oil, with salt and cayenne pepper to taste ; or spririlile a little sugar over the oranges, with some sherry and half as much maraschino as sherry. Both salads should be very cold. The first one is particularly good with game, and ths latter is often served in place of a sherbet before the game. Salad Dressings. Mayonnaise dressing is ordinarily given for all meat salads, and it and French dressing are the only two in general use. One made with cooked eggs is, however, much richer and can be trusted to give far greater satisfaction for chicken, lobster and oysters. The mayon- naise being more delicate and including no mustard, i^ better for eggs and for simple greens. The French recipe, as every one knows, includes no eggs, and is delicious upon crisp lettuce, dandelion greens, cold vegetables and the like, besides which, it can be quickly made and is at i^s best when prepared at the table, just at the iHo- ment of serving. Mayonnaise is the basis for a number of sauces. The juice of boiled parsley colors it green and pounded lobster shell renders it coral. Tartare sauce is mayonnaise made with tarragon vinegar, and with the addition of capers, a little chopped pickle and a slight flavor of chives. Another excellent sauce is mayonnaise mixed with chopped cucumber, or grated horseradish. When cold fowl oi meat is used in a salad, it should always be dressed with oil and via-' egar before the mayonqaise is added. 292 SALADS. Mayonnaise Sauce.— Put the yolks of 2 eggs in a very cold soup plate and beat until light, add half a teaspoohful of salt, half a tea- spoonful of dry mustard, a shaker of cayenne pepper, a teaspoonful of powdered sugar and beat again. Now stir in, a drop at a time, half a pint of olive oil, stirring constantly one way all the time. When the mixture gets too stiff to stir add a few drops of lemon juice or I vinegar, then the oil again, drop by drop, until you have used 2 table- spoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice and all the oil.' If too thick when ready to use, a few- drops of vinegar may be used to thin it. Never put mayonnaise on a sal^d until the very last moment before serving, or it will liquefy. If there is a tenden^ to curdle put back on ice a few minutes and stir hard. Some cooks, to prevent this curdling, add half a teaspoonful of the white of an egg before stirring in the oil. If it does not thicken properly, add more oil. If it is not put on the salad before serving, pass it^ af ound in a glass or silver pitcher. Vinegar can be used instead of lemon juice, or they can be used half and half. This will keep some time and may be made when yolks are left over from baking cake. Bottle, using a glass stopper, or put in a glass can, screwing on the cover. Keep on ice. Do not break the yolk until the oil is dropped and the two can be stirred together. The trouble of which so many beginners complain — 'the curdling of the oil — comes {torn breaking and stirring the egg. The simple precaution mentioned will effectually prevent all difficulty of the sort, and if care be taken will ensure a smooth dressing. Stir the oil in very slowly at first, when well started a little more briskly, but never pour it in with anything like haste. The dressing, when finished, should be about the color of boiled custard, and much thicker. By using the whites of eggs a white mayonnaise sauce may be obtained. Even the bowl in which a mayonnaise is made should be kept on ice to chill it, as well as the oil, eggs and vinegar used in making it. French Dressing.^-This is simply two-thirds oil and, one-third vinegar, 1 saltspoonful of salt and one-half saltspbonful of pepper. Place the greens for salad in the bowl. Dissolve the salt and pepper in one tablespoonful of oil and pour over the surface, then the re- mainder of the oil and toss thoroughly. Pour over all the vinegar, toss again and serve. It is very nice to prepare this at table, measur- SALADS. 293 ing the ingredients in the wooden saladspoon. Part, or entirely lerpon juice can be used instead of vinegar. Some tastes prefer a very little made mustard added to this dressing. If the taste of the oil is preferred, use the oil first in the dressing, if not use the vinegar first, for where one holds vantage ground first, the other cannot remain. Salad Dressingr without Oil. — For the benefit of those persons by whom oil is not relished, a good dressing may be made in this manner : Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs till quite smooth, adding a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, one-fourth the volume of white pepper, half a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Mijc these thoroughly and add cream and vinegar in equal proportions to make the mixture of the desired consistency. Boiled Salad Dressing (Cheap and Good). — One heaping tea- spoonful of mustard; 1 tablespoonful of sugar; 1 tahlespoonful of melted butter or salad oil ; 2 tablespoonfuls of cream or buttermilk, sweet milk or sour ; 6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar ; 1 egg. Mix the mustard smoothly in part of the vinegar, add the remainder of the vinegar and sugar. Beat the egg and butter or oil together, stir in the cream or milk and pour into the vinegar and mustard, mixing well. Let it boil a few moments, stirring briskly. Cool before using. It will keep several days, is good and cheap, and can be used with lettuce or cold meat ; fowl, potatoes, or any cold pieces are made palatable by using this dressing. Cream Salad Dressing. — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs till light and thick ; add a teaspoonful of mustard, also 1 of salt, speck of cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, same of melted butter, 1 cup of cream or milk, and half a cup of vinegar ; then add the whites of the 3 eggs, beaten stifiF. Put all together in a double boiler ; boil until thick, stirring well while cooking. Bottle tightly. Kept in a cool place will keep for two or three weeks. Cream Dressing. — The fortunate country housewives who have thick cream can make a delicious dressing by diluting it with one- fourth vinegar, seasoning it with salt, pepper and mustard, adding a teaspoonful of sugar. Baking. — Flour should always be kept dry, as the least dampness will af- fect it. Bread made with milk will be whiter and better than where water is used. The ^' ■ milk should be boiled, not simply heated and not allowed ^ - to be below a lukewarm temperature when mixed with flour. Many housekeepers, however, do not boil the milk, but only warm it Milk-bread needs little or no shortening, and less flour is required than is the case where water is used. It also requires less knead- ing. _ An earthen vessel should be used in preference to wood or tin, as it can be kept cleaner than the former and will protect the temperature of "the sponge" better than the latter. One cup of yeast means wet yeast. If dry is used, the cup must be filled with warm water. Bread and biscuit should rise in a mod- erately-warm place. If too cold it will be heavy ; if too hot it will be sour. Should a batch of dough become sour, a teaspoonful of soda will help it, but this should be used only in an emergency. To have your bread rise very quickly, double the quantity of yeast, but watch it ; do not let it sour. Bread should rise to twice its original size before it is ready to bake. Bake small loaves rather than large ones. Do not have the loaf too large for the pan ; it will-be a bad shape. Biscuit and rolls require a hotter oven than bread and a longer time to rise. A little sugar or a little butter mixed with the rising will keep bread moist. Do not put a cloth around bread or biscuit if put in a tin box. In using baking-powder or other chemicals with salt, mix them thoroughly with the flour by twice putting all through the sieve together. An even teaspoonful of baking-powder to a cup- ful of flour is a good proportion. Two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and" one teaspoonful of soda are equal to two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Always sift your flour. Brush the tops of the loaves with butter before putting in the oven. This keeps the crust moist. Brush with beaten egg or sweet 294 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 295 milk to give a glazed appearance. Raised biscuit rubbed over with butter before putting it in the tin will separate smoothly when baked. Test the oven by putting in a little flour on an old tin. If it browns in one minute the oven is at right heat. Keep the heat steady, and, as it lessens toward the end of the baking, put. in the rolls and biscuit; after they have risen put on more heat and bake quickly. Flour can be sifted by the quantity. Baking-powder, in the pro< portion of two heaping tablespoonfuls to a quart, can be sifted witlfTti providing it can be set away in a tightly^covered pail. This is a great saving of time. Sift together two or three times. • Self-raising floul and creamery-buttered flour can be bought anjnvhere. Graham flour and corn-meal should be bought in small quantities, as they spoil easily. One cup of flour means a full cup before sift- ing. Heat the bread-knife before slicing a warm loaf of bread or cake, and the slice will be smooth and even. , Sprinkle a little sugar on top of the bread-dough after it is mixed at night and you will have no crust on it in the morning, after it has risen. When bread is baked remove immediately from the pans, stand on end, that the air may circulate freely around it. Do not open the oven-door after the bread is put in until it has had time to become somewhat firm. The cold air will have a tendency tp make it heavy. Never leave the bread on a pine table to absorb the odor of the wood. If the crusts are liked crisp do not cover the loaves while cooling. To give a wafer-like softness, cover, while still hot, with several thicknesses of bread-cloth. One cup of yeast is equal to 1 cake of compressed yeast-cake. . A stone jar is better than a tin box to keep bread moist. When the loaves are perfectly cold, unwrap and put in the jar ; cover this closely. Cleanse flie jar from bread-crumbs and scald every two or three days, A yard and a half of cheap table linen makes the best bread-cloth ; old table-cloths are good for this purpose. Keep several so that they can be kept sweet and clean. Flour, age and quality, makes a great difference in the bread. It should be smooth to the touch, keep its shape if pressed in the hand, and will not absorb as much moisture as the more granular lind. It can be used equally well for bread, cake and pastry. A barrel of flour that will not make good bread to-day, simply because the wheat was too new when ground, will, if kept fpr two J96 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. months, make perfect bread, if the yeast be good ; for, after all, the yeast is more frequently than the flour the cause of failure to make satisfactory bread. When it is purchased in small quantities there will always be an uncertainty as to how it will work until after the first time it is used. Even in small families it is better to get flour by the barrel, as it improves with age. Another thing for the house- keeper to remember is that the whitest flour is not the most nutri- tious. What is called first-quality flour does not contain nearly so large a quantity of the best elements of the wheat as the second quality, which is much darker, but gives a sweeter and more nufri- tious loaf. Servingr Butter. — Butter is one of the most delicate foods, and unless carefully preserved, the harbor of disease, not only holding, but attracting and developing foreign organic matter. At no time before serving should butter be exposed to the air. In well-kept boarding-houses and hotels, a cube of hard butter is.put on a saucer and buried in shaved ice. With good bread and good coifee, a square inch of choice butter makes a breakfast. The common but- ter-patty is liseless for this kind of service. Another method, suit- able for a private family, is the cracker jar, because it has a cover that fits. Cut the butter in inch squares, line the jar with crushed ice, and fiU with butter and ice cubes ; serve both. There are prints on sale that cut cubes the size of loaf sugar ; they have economy and daintiness to commend their use. Send a pickle fork around with cracker jar to help the butter. When cut, the pieces should be thrown into cold water, so as to prevent their sticking together and losing shape. Left-over Bread.-r Every housewife should look in the bread-jar every morning. The whole and half slices of stale bread may be used for toast, the smaller pieces to be toasted with care on a pan- cake griddle ; then put them into a vegetable dish and pour boiling water over 3 or 4 spoonfuls of butter. When ready to use, pour this over the toasted bread. Small pieces and crumbs can be used for dressing to stuff" fowls with, or they may be placed on a tin in a warm oven and dried until a beautiful brown, rolled on a board until fine, and then kept in a box or glass jar to use in place of cracker crumbs for frying oysters and making croquettes. Be sure to roll them until' fine, and do not use the pastry-board for this purpose, as the crumbs BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 297 will make it rough. Soft bread crumbs are good soaked in milk for griddle cakes; stale bread can be utilized foi^ a pudding. Care should be taken not to use a particle of bread which is mouldy or from a loaf which has moulded. Brown bread that has grown stale makes delicious milk toast. Brown biscuit can be used in the same way. Stale biscuits can be cut in three slices each, and browned in the oven for crisps, which are relished for breakfast. To utilize cold Johnny cake, cut the squares in two as you would a cold biscuit, and toast on a griddle. A loaf of stale bread can be made quite fresh by being dipped quickly into hot milk, and then baked until dry in a quick oven. Biscuits can be warmed to be as good as when just baked by placing them in the oven dry, covered closely with a tin. Or dip instantly in cold water, put in the oven and heat until soft, warm and light. Do not burn. If mush is rolled in flour before being fried, it will not absorb so much grease and, it will have a delicious brown crust that cannot be obtained in any other way. To use very dry bread for any purpose, soak it in cold milk or water instead of hot. The hot fluids seem to take the life out of dry bread and render it soggy. The cold soaking leaves it flaky. Stale crackers which taste old can be made fresh by putting them on a tin in the oven and shaking them often until they heat through. Time for Baking. — In baking bread, pies, cakes, etc., much de- pends on the heat of the oven. Biscuit and gingerbread need a quick oven; bread, a steady heat, not too hot. Fruit cake should be baked rather slowly and requires more cooking than a plain cake. Cookies want a quick oven and close attention or they will burn. Fruit pies, especially apple, should be baked rather slowly, so the fruit may be thoroughly cooked. Cake should not be disturbed while baking. Table of Proportions. Use 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses ; 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 pint sour milk ; 3 teaspoonfuls baking powddr to 1 quart flour ; one-half cupful of yeast or one-quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 , pint liquid ; 1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 teaspoonful salt to 2 quarts flour; 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart soup; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for bread; 1 scant cupful (/ 298 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 1 full cupful of flour for batters. Potato Yeast. — Pare and grate 4 medium potatoes, pour on 3 pints of boiling water, add 1 cup sugar, one-half cup salt, one-quarter cake compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry yeast, or 1 cupful of soft yeast, whichever is convenient. Let the batter cool partly befpi'e adding the yeast. Stir thoroughly. It will be light as a foam next day. Renew while there is still enough of the old yeast to start the new lot. Clean the yeast jug thoroughly before starting anew. Qpe tea- cupfii^l of this yeast will make 4 or 5 loaves of bread. Btop Yeast.-^One pint hot mashed potatoes ; one-half pint salt ; one-half pint sugar ; one-half pint flour ; one-half pint hops (meas- ured lightly); 4^ quarts boiling water; one-half pint yeast, or 1 cake compressed yeast. Put the hops in a..«tewpan with 1 pint of boiling water, and boil for 20 minutes. Mix the potatoes, sugar, flour and Salt, and strain the hop water on them. Beat this mixture Well, and add the 4 quarts of boiling water. Let this stand until blo6d-warm> then add the yeast, stirring well. Cover the bowl and let stand 24 hours. Skim and stir the yeast several times. Put in jugs and cork tightly. Keep in a cool place. It will keep two months. In making bread with it use very little salt. If yeast seems at all doubtful, stir in a little saleratus before using it. If it does not foam well, it is too stale. Yeast Cakes. — Boil a large handful of hops in a quart of water for half an hour. Stir it slowly and smoothly into one-half cup wheat flour. When lukewarm add 3 cakes of yeast, previously soaked in a little warm water, or 1 large cupful of fresh soft yeast. Set in a warm place until very light, then thicken with cornmeal until stiff enough to roll out. Cut in small square cakes. Dry in the shade or in a warm oven. Turn often to keep from souring. When dry, tie in a bag and k§ep in a cool, dry place. Soak a cake in warm water when wanted for yeast. This ought to make 3 loaves of bread. It is con- venient to make this yeast for warm weather. It will keep 5 or 6 months. Baking' Powder, Home Made. — Ten ounces of cornstarch, 9 ounces of bicarbonate of soda, 18 ounces of cream of tartar. Sift several times. Put in tight jars or cans. Baking Powder. — II. One ounce super-carbonate soda, 7 drachms ^artaric acid (powdered). Roll smoothly on a baking board and stand BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 299 m the sun. Sift several times. When thoroughly dry put in tight glass jars or bottles. Use 1 teaspoonful of this powder to 1 quart of flour. Tartaric acid is used as being purer than cream of tartar. Water Bread.— Half a cake of compressed yeast, 1 cake of dry yeast, or 1 cupful of soil yeast. If either compressed or dry yeast is used, fill up the cup with warm water. Dissolve 2 tablespoonfuls. of lard and 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar in 1 quart of warm water. Then gradually stir in a pint and one-half of flour ; add a cup of yeast mixture, and then a teaspoonful of soda. Beat hard and set to rise in a moderately warm place where the temperature will not fall during the night. In the morning sift 2 quarts of fresh flour into a deep bread-tray, and add a teaspoonful fo fine salt. Make- a hole in the middle of the heap, pour in the risen sponge, and work the flour down into it with the hands. If too soft, add more flour. IS stiff, rinse out the bowl in which the sponge was set, with a little lukewarm water, and work this in. I'lour the hands and knead hard, always toward the centre of the mass, which should be fre- quently turned around. Knead long and briskly. From 20 minutes to half an hourls the proper length of time. When the dough is of the right texture, cover with a cloth, and leave it 4 or 5 hours to rise in a warm place, where there are no draughts. Then knead again for 10 minutes or so, divide into loaves, place in well-greaSed pans and set the pans in a warm place to rise for an hour. In winter it will be found a good plan to heat the flour. Set a pan of sifted flour over a kettle of boiling water, or, better still, in the heating oven of a range. Lime water in bread has been found to produce the lightness and softness of alum without its injurious qualities ; it also prevents acidity. Use in the proportion of 1 table- spoonful of the saturated solution to each loaf of bread. One cup- ful of air-slaked lime in 1 quart of water will make the solution. Flour Sifter. 300 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Potato Sponge Bread. — One quart boiling water ; 4 large pot» toes; one-half cup yeast, or one-third cake compressed yeast; 'J tablespoonful salt; about 3 quarts and 1 pint of flour. This wiB make 4 large or 6 medium-sized loaves. Cover the potatoes with boiling water. Cook them for half an hol^r; then drain and mash them. Pour the boiling water on them. Let this stand until it is blood-warm ; then add the yeast and 3 quarts of flour, beating it in with a spoon. Cover the bowl with a clbth, and then with a board or til;) cover, and let it rise over night — 9 or 10 hours. In the. morning beat in the salt and half of the remaining flour. Use the remainder of the flour for kneading the bread on the board. Knead for 20 minutes or half an hour. Put the dough back into the bowl and cover it ; let it rise to doubly its size ; shape into loaves, and let them rise to double their original size. Bake for 1 hour in a moderi ately hot oven. The addition of a tablespoonful of sugar, and 2 or 3 of butter, improves the bread for some tastes. If these be used, add them with the salt when the bread is kneaded. ScaWing buttermilk or whey may be used instead of boiling water, and will be found an improvement. Quick Bread, Wheat. — One cake of yeast dissolved in half cup cold water ; 1 tablespoonful sugar ; half teaspoonfnl salt ; half pint cold milk ; half pint boiling water. Stir in the dissolved yeast. Sift in flour until stiff" as can be stirred. Put on the moulding-board and knead 5 minutes. Butter a jar or deep pan thoroughly, and put the bread in it. Set in a warm place to rise for 3 hours. Make into loaves, butter and prick the tops. Set to rise again for 1 hour, and then bake 1 hour. Wash the top over with milk and set on end to cool. This is extra-nice bread and can be made between breakfast and dinner, saving the trouble of setting a sponge over night. Com- pressed yeast is best to use — ^half a cake. Entire Wheat Bread. — -Two quarts of imsifted flour; lj4 pints warm water ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; 1 tablespoonful of sugar ; "half "tablespoonful salt; half cake compressed yeast, or half cup home-made yeast. After sifting the flour into a bread-bowl, put aside a cupful for use in kneading the brtfad, and put the sugar and salt ' with the remainder. If the yeast be compressed, dissolve it in a small quantity of water. Pour the remaining, water and the yeast into the bowl, and finally add the butter, somewhat softened by standing in a BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 301 ttrarm place for a while. Beat the dough vigorously with a strong spoon, and when it gets smooth and light sprinkle a moulding-board with a part of the flour that was reserved, and turn out upon the board. Knead until smooth and elastic, say from 20 minutes to half an hour; then return to the bowl, and after covering first with a clean towel, and then with a tin or wooden cover, let it rise over night in a warm place. This quantity will make 2 loaves of bread and 1 pan of roUs. When it has risen, butter lightly 2 bread-pans and 1 roU- pan. Make enough rolls to fill the pan, shaping them with the hands ; then put the remainder of the dough on a heard, and divide it into 2 loaves. Let the rolls and loaves rise tifl they are double their original size ; then bake in a moderate oven-r-the rolls for half an hour and the bread for an hour. Entire or whole wheat flour is the whole wheat, husk excepted, ground to a fine flour. Graham is a coarse-ground wheat meal. The rolls and bread are brown and delicious. Some cooks do not knead it at all, simply stirring and beating the dough until it is a moderately stiff batter. Pour this in greased pans and let rise over night. Fill the pans one-third full. Bake after breakfast. Wholesome and delicious for every one, but invaluable for invalids, since all rfhe nutritious portions, which are rejected in white flour, are retained in entire wheat flour. Quick Buttermilk Bread. — One pint of buttermilk, 1 ^ tea- spoons of soda, half cupful shortening, pinch of salt, flour to make a medium dough. Bake at once. Baking Powder Bread. — One quart flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, half teaspoonful sugar, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls baking powder, half medium-sized cold boiled potato, and water. Sift together flour, salt, - sugar and baking powder ; rub in the potato ; add water to mix smoothly and rapidly into a stiff batter, about as soft as for pound- cake; about a pint of water to a quart of flour will be required-^ more or less, according to the brand and quantity of the flour used* Do not make a stiff dough, as in yeast bread. Pour the batter into a greased pan, 4^ by8 inches and 4 deep, filling about half full. The loaf will rise to fill the pan when baked. Bake in a very hot oven 45 minutes, placing paper over first fifteen minutes' baking, to prevent crusting too soon on top. Bake immediately after mixing. Salt-Bisiugr Bread. — Pour upon a teacupful of milk sufficient boiling water to bring it to blood temperature ; must not be too hot 302 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. or you will fail ; add a very little salt and sugar, one-fourth of a t«i' spoonful of each ; then stir in 1 large teaspoonful of corn meal or Graham flour and 2 tablespoonfuls of wheat flour ; mixall up to the consistency of pancake batter and Set to rise by placing the cup or bowl containing it in warm water; should water gather on top dust a little flour and stir. If set in the early morning it will rise at noon. Sift 3 or 4 quarts of flour and spread in a pan, so as to leave a large iioUow in the centre, and put in Ttablespoonful of sweet lard or butter. Pour over this 3 quarts of warm water, or milk and water, half and half. Add the rising. Mix and work into loaves. Rub butter over each. Put in deep tins, and, when it rises to the top, bake about 40 minutes in a well-heated oven. Let cool uncovered, and put away in a large stone jar. This is good, svireet, digestible bread. Wheat and Indian Bread. — Sift in a pan 4 quarts of Indian meal; stir in enough boiling water to make a very stiff" batter, stiff enough to hold a spoon upright. Let the batter cool -until it is blood-warm, then stir in 2 quarts of sifted wheat flour, a tablespoon- ful of salt and 2 spoonfuls of molasses. Finally add a small teacup of yeast. Mix the bread thoroughly, put in a pan, grease it well on top and let it rise over night. In the morning, when it shows signs of cracking, put it in a moderately hot stove-oven and cover it Jwell with brown paper and let it bake for two or three hours, or, if you prefer, steam it for five hours and bake-it one hour covered in a slow oven. This is good, sweet, nutritious bread. Boston Brown Bread. — 'One coffee-cup corn meal, 1 coflfee-cup ; rye "flour, 1 coffee-cup Graham flour. Sift together and add 2 cups of New Orleans molasses. Mix all together with 2 cups of sVeet milk, 1 cup of sour milk, 1 heaping teaspoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Pour the mixture in a tin pail; cover; put it in a kettle of cold water ; set over the fire and let boil 4 hours. Butter the pail thoroughly. Cook it as soon as mixed. It may appear to be too thin, but it is -not, as this recipe has never been known to fail. Serve warm with baked beans or turkey. The bread should not quite fill the pail, as it must have room to swell. See that the water does not boil up to the top of the pail ; also take care that it does not stop boiling. To- serve it remove the lid and set it for a few moments into the open oven to dry the top, and it will then turn out in perfect shape. This bread can be used as a pudding, served with a sauce BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKfiS. 303 made of thick, sour cream, well sweetened and seasoned with nut- meg ; or it is good toasted the next day. It can be put in a buttered mould and steamed 4 hours instead of boiled. Baked Brown Bread. — ^Two cups of Indian meal, 2 cups ryq flour or Graham, three-quarters cup of molasses, 1 teaspoonful soda^ one-half teaspoonful salt; sour milk enough to make a batter about like cake. Have moderate oven ; bake slowly 4 or 5 hours. Sweet milk or water can be used in making the batter, and 2 teaspoonfula of baking-powder sifted with the ilour, instead of the soda. Graham Bread. — Two cups of wheat flour, 4 cups of Graham flour, 2 cups of warm milk, 1 cake of compressed yeast, half cup of molasses, 2 teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of soda, dissolved in the water. Make as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Let it rise over night. In the morning beat it a little, form in one or two loaves, put in pans, and when it rises again-, bake 1 hour in a moderate oven. Quick Grakam Bread. — One pint sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda, half cup molasses, half teaspoon salt. Stir in Graham flour to make a stiff dough, and bake in a quick oven. J), little shortening makes it more tender. Indian Bread. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal with 1 quart of milk or water ; boiling milk and water can be used, half and half When cool add : 1 pint of Graham flour, 1 cup of wheat flour, 2 tablespoons of butter (melted), 1 teaspoon of salt, half cupful of yeast. If yeast cakes are used, 1 will answer. Dissolve it, and fill the cup half full of warm water. Do this at night. In the morning stir down ; put in a well-buttered pan, letting it rise first for half an hour, and bake slowly. Kew Orleans Corn Bread. — One and oHte-half pints corn-meal, half pint flour, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoons- ful baking powder, 1% pints milk, 1 tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs. Sift together corn-meal, flour, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard, cold ; add eggs (beaten), and the milk ; mix into a moderately stiff- batter ; pour from bOwl into a shallow cake-pan. Bake in rather hot oven 30 minutes. Bye Bread.— One cup yeast, 1 pint of warm water to 2 pints of rye flour, and 1 pint of wheat flour; 2 tablespoonfuls lard or butter; 2 tablespo6nfuls brown sugar. Beat together, and let rise over night. In the morning mix with this : 1 quart of warm milk, 1 cup of Indian meal, enough rye flour to make into dough. Knead; cover; set ia 804, BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. a warm place to rise 2 or 3 hours. Knead again, and make into loaves. If there is the least tendency to sourness, add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in warm water. It is best to always add this in Warm weather. Rub soda smooth with a knife blade before measuring. Oat Meal Bread. — Half pint oat meal, 2^ pirits flour, half teaspoonful salt, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, three-quarters pint of ('milk, 1}4 pints salted water. Boil the oat meal in water for 1 hour; add milk; set aside until cold. Then place in bowl, sift together fiour, salt, and powder, and add. Mix together smoothly and deftly ; bake in greased tin 45 minutes, protected with paper 20 minutes. Biscuit. Suggestions. — It is a mistake to make a large tea biscuit. Prop- erly speaking, a tea bisciiit should not be more than two inches in diameter and proportionately thick when baked. This gives a deli- cate^ moist, flaky biscuit, which will be cooked through before the out- side crust has become hard or overbrown. Most people hurry to get biscuits in the oven after they are mixed. Those made with sweet milk and baking powder are much nicer if, after cutting out and put- ting in the pans, they rise for a while before baking. If mixed in the evening they may even wait till morning to bake, and are more like light rolls. If not quite milk enough use half water. Substitution of Baking Powder. — When a recipe calls for bak- ing powder and it is not at hand, use cream of tartar and soda in the proportion of 2 teaSpoonfuls of cream of tartar to 1 teaspoonful of soda. Two teaspoonfuls of baking powder called for in a recipe may be replaced by 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one-half tea- spoonful soda, — always seeing that the two together equal two-thirds of the amount of baking powder called for, and vice versa. Level teaspoonfuls of cream tartar' and soda are meant. When a recipe calls for sweet milk, or cream and it is not at hand, use sour milk or cream and use with it baking soda in the proportion of 1 level spoon- ful to a pint of sour milk. If soda biscuits are yellow it is owing to too much soda. Soda must be varied according to the sourness of 4he milk, milk that has just turned requiring a little less than the amount above given, and milk that is very sour requiring a little more. This nte applies to any case where sour milk is used. BREAD, biscuits; ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 305 Cream of Tartar and Soda Biscuit, Without Milk. — One quart of flour, 2 heaping teaspoons of butter chopped in the flour, 2 cups cold water, 2 teaspoons cream tartar, siited with the flour, 1 teaspooii- ful soda dissolved in hot water, one-half teaspoon salt. Stir the dis- solved soda in the cold water. Mix the dough very quickly, having it just stiff enough to handle and roll. Bake in a quick oven. Buttermilk Biscuitl — For four persons take 1 pint moderately sour buttermilk and stir in it a rounding teaspopnful of baking soda. Pour into the flour bowl where there has been made a hole in the middle of the flour. Add a half teaspoonful of salt and half a cup of soft lard. Mix with the fingers into a soft dough. Do not get in Too much flour— it must be quite soft. Roll out 1 inch thick or a little more, place not too close together on a tin and bake in a very hot oven. This is a thoroughly, tested recipe. Maple syrup, honey or preserves make an excellent accompaniment. Baised Graham Biscuit. — One pint milk or water, 1 tablespoon- ful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar, half cup yeast. (If dry yeast is used, take half cake of yeast dissolved in half cupful warm water.) Use enough of wheat flour to make a thin batter ; add the remain- der of the ingredients and as much Graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon. Set away until morning. In the morning butter a pan, and with floured hands tear off bits of dough the size of an egg, toll lightly between the palms,* put in the pan, let rise 20 minutes and bake in a hot oven. Rolls. Fresh rolls may be kept on hand by putting in a refrigerator some of the fresh sponge and letting it rise when needed. A com- mon cause of failure in making fancy bread and rolls is mixing the dough too stiff; it should be soft enough to be easily worked, without being in the least sticky. Egg Rolls. — ^Two eggs, well beaten, 1 small cup of milk, 1 table- spoon of lard or melted butter, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, and enough flour to make a stiff biscuit. Roll out, cut desired size, bake in a hot oven. Nice biscuit for tea. If liked, add 2 tablespoonfuls of white sugar. Parker House Rolls (with Baking Powder). — These are not the old original Parker House Rolls, like the following, but are quicker made : Sift 3 tablespoonfuls of baking powder with 1 qUart of flour: COOK— 20 Iron Boll Fan. 306 BREAD. BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. put in 1 tablespoonful of cold butter ; add 1 well-beaten egg, 1 table- spoonful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful salt ; rub well together, and make into a dough, with 1 pint of cold milk. Roll out less than half- inch thick. Cut with a large biscuit-cutter. Spread soft butter over the top of each> fold them together, and lay a little apart on greased tins. Brush over the tops with sweet milk and set immediately in a hot oven. Parker House Bolls. — Melt a piece of butter size of an egg in a pan of milk, add a teaspoon of salt and 3 teaspoons of siigar, and when lukewarm "add. half yeast J^ ^^jT cake dissolved in warm water and stir ^•^^ in all the flour it will take smoothly. Don't knead. Set in a pan of warm water, and when raised to twice its bulk stir down. Mix at noon for supper and stir down 3 or 4 times. About 1^ hours before supper turn out on the board with as little flour as possible and roll out three-fourths inch thick, cut with an oval cutter, dip in cream or melted butter, and fold ends together, or put a tiny piece of butter in each fold (cream is best). Let rise at least an hour; bake in a hot oven till iDrown. Should bake, in 10 to 15 minutes. Some 6f the ordinary bread sponge treated the same way is nearly as good. The secret is in the cream or melted butter, as they go into tins. Vienna Bolls. — ^Two pounds of sifted flour banked around pan, one-half pint of milk, one-half pint 'of water ; mix to a thin batter, (Quickly add one-half pint of milk in which has been dissolved 1 tea- spoon of salt and 1 compressed yeast cake ; leave remainder of flour against side of pan ; cover and keep free from air 60 minutes ; then mix in rest of the flour until dough leaves side and bottom of pan ; let stand for 2 1^ hours. Divide into 1 pound pieces ; subdivide into 12 pieces. Flatten these small pieces of dough in squares three- quarters of an inch thick, fold their corners to the centre, pinch them down to hold them,, and turn the little rolls thus made over on a board covered with cloth ; let thiem stand for about 10 minutes, turn them up again on a baking-pan, and put into a hot oven to bake quickly, for about 15 minutes ; when half done brush them with milk, return them to the oven and finish baking. Some trouble, b»itthe result is delicious. BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 307 Bread Twist Bolls. — Take enough bread dough in the rhorning for a tin of rolls. Work in 1 tablespoonfiil butter or lard. Divide the dough into parts the size of an egg, subdividing each of these into 2 unequal pieces. The largest piece form into a taper roll. Lay in a buttered pan. Do not let .touch. Divide the smaller pieces into 3 pieces each. Roll these longer than the others and braid. Place a braid on the top of each large roll, pinch the ends of the two together, wash over with milk and bake. Frencli BoUs, Raised. — Two cups sweet milk, three-quarters of a cup of butter and lard mixed, one-half cup of yeast, or one-half cake of yeast dissolved in one-half cup of water, 1 teaspoonful salt. Flour to make a stiff dough. Let rise over night In the morning add 2 well-beaten eggs, knead and let rise again. Make into balls the size of an egg. Then roll each one between the hands to make a long roll (about 3 inches long). Place close together in even rows on -well-buttered pans. Cover and let rise again. Bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Glaze with sweet milk before baking. Buns. Caraway Buns. — Make as for lemon buns, adding 1 heaping teaspoonful caraway seeds. Hot Cross Buns. — Three cupfuls of milk, l.cup of soft yeast, or 1 cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 1 cup of warm water. Flour to make a thick batter. Set as a sponge over night. In the morning, add half cupful of melted butter, 1 pupful sugar, half nutmeg, grated, 1 saltspoonful salt. Add sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Form into balls, flatten out with the hand, and mark deeply in the form of a cross with the back of a knife. Lay on buttered tins, and set to rise, and bake when light. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of corian- der seeds. Oat Meal Puffs. — Sift together one-half pint oat meal, one-ftalf pint Graham flour, one-half pint wheat flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, one- half teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder; add 3 well-beaten eggs, 1 pint sweet milk. Mix into a thin batter, then half fill well- greased gem pans, and bake in hot oven 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot. Busks. Teast Busks. — One-half pint sweet milk, 1 teacup yeast, or 1 compressed yeast cake, 2 eggs ; mix with flour to stiff batter and 308 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. raise; then add 1 cup butter, one-half cup sugar, one teaspoon soda, Tittle nutmeg; let rise again ; then knead and mould into shape; let rise and bake ; when done, wet top with eggs, sprinkle with sugar, and return to oven again for a moment. Serve hot. Dried Busks. — Make as above with yeast. When ready to bake, roll out 1 inch thick. Cut in round cakes with a biscuit cutter, and arrange in a buttered baking-pan in two layers, one laid carefully upon another. Butter slightly between them. Let rise half an hour, and bake. When done, lift apart and throw loosely in the pan. Put in the oven when the fire is low, and leave all night; when sufficiently dried and browned, put in a clean muslin bag and hang up in the kitchen. It will be at least three days before they are ready to use. To serve, put as many as desired in a deep dish, and pour cold milk over them. When soft, drain, and eat with butter or cream. Good with coffee, served dry ; nice for invalids. Will keep for weeks. Rusks baked in the ordinary form can be sliced lengthwise in two or three slices, after they have cooled, and dried in the same way. Gem*. - ■>■ _ Graham Gems.— Mix Graham flour with milk to form a stiff" batter ; add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake in gems, hot and well greased. To make strictly hygienic, mix the batter with water instead of milk ; omit the egg, and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar or molasses to aid in browning the gems. A very quick oven must be used in this last way. Butter the gem-pans carefully, first heating them on the stove. Put a little butter in the bottom of each one. It will melt and rise up on the sides as the batter is dropped in. Fill the pans two-thirds full, leaving room to rise. Bake about 20 minutes. Apple G«ms. — Chop 4 sour apples very fine ; stir into, them 1 beaten egg, 1 quarter cup of molasses, and \}4 cups each of corn meal and sifted flour; dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in warm water and add it, using enough water to thin batter. Bake in buttered ' gem-pans in a moderate oven. Graham G«ms (with Baldng Powder). — One tablespoonful of butter, 1 beaten egg, 1 cup of milk, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2 tea- spoons of baking powder, in Graham flour enough for a good batter. Bake as above. A change in this may be made by taking 1 cup of<' BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLL^ AND HOT CAKES. 309 sour milk instead of sweet, and half teaspoonful of soda. Take a levej teaspoonful of soda, flatten it over with a knife, and cut it smoothly in half. Bake as before. Tear gems open with a fork, and butter. Oatmeal Grems. — One cupful of oatmeal soaked over night in 1 cupful of water. In the morning, add 1 cupful sour milk, 1 cupful flour, three-quarters tablespoonful soda, one-half tablespoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. Mix, and°bake in hot, well-buttered gem-pans. If too moist, add a little more flour, 1 cup of sweet milk, aiid 1 teaspoonful baking powder can be used instead of sour milk and soda. Wbeat Crems. — One quart flour, 1 quart milk, 4 eggs, 1 tea- spoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls (small) of butter. Sift the flour with the salt ; stir the milk in smoothly. Beat the yolks and whites well and separately ; stir first the yolks in the milk and flour, then the whites, then the melted cottolene. Half fill the gem-pans and bake in a, deep pan or on a baking sheet in a moderate oven for 25 min- utesj if baked in earthen cups, 45 minutes. Let them be thoroughly baked, or they will fall on being taken from the oven. Rye Gems. — One pint of warm milk with 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it, a pinch of salt, 2 eggs, well beaten. Rye flour enough to make a thin batter. Bake in gem-pans. ' Muffins. Muffin rings should be well greased, filled two-thirds full and baked upon a well-buttered griddle upon the stove, turning ring and all with a pancake shovel when one side is done to brown the other. Or the rings may be filled and set in a buttered , pan and baked in the oven. Turning will not be necessary. Muffin rings 2^ inches across and lj4 inches deep are the most convenient size. Gem ironMtifan Pan. irons can also be used. Occasionally the same recipe can be dropped in spoonfuls on a griddle and baked, turning over with a pancake shovel. This is nice when haste is nec- essary. Tear opea and butter. Muffins, Plain. — Three cups flour before sifting, 1 cup water, 1}4 cups sweet milk, 3 level teaspoonfuls butter, 2' tablespooidfuV sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Mix the sugar and shortenin^r SIO BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. lo a cream, add the wetting, then sift the flour and baking powder into it. Beat well, heat gem irons hot, grease, fill nearly full, and bake in hot oven 20 minutes. An egg is used sometimes. Sour milk and soda may be substituted, three-quarters teaspoonful soda. Baised MufSns. — Four cups wheat flour, 1^ pints sweet milk, 1 heaping tablespoonful lard, 2 eggs, one-half teacupful yeast. Sift the idour into a pan with a pinch of salt ; warm the milk and add cotto- fene, and stir into the flour. Beat the eggs light, add to the mixture, When thoroughly mixed add yeast. Set to rise about 3 hours before using, and when very light bake in muffin rings in a quick oven. These muffins must be served the instant they come from the oven. The muffin rings can be put on a griddle and baked also by turning the rings over with a pancake turner. If wanted for breakfast set over night. Tear the muffins open when done, put a bit of butter in each and keep warm until served. Never cut them. Graham muffins can be made the same way. Breakfast Muffins. — Three level teaspoonfuls butter, 2 eggg, 1 pint milk,, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Soften the butter, add to it the yolks of 2 eggs ; beat ; add milk ; mix ; add flour, salt and baking powder ; beat well ; stir in well- beaten whites, bake in quick oven 25 minutes in well-greased rings. .SlnglisIiK Muffins. — Make as above, bake in muffin rings. Waffles. The first essential to success in wafHes is a well-fitting waffle-iron. The waffle-iron should fit tightly over the stove hole. There should be no space in which to , admit a draught of air around the waffle-iron to the fire ; yet there should be space enough for it to turn esisily. H«at the irons thor- oughly before beginning to bake. They should be as hot as a griddle. Grease the wafifle-irons with a pjece of beef suet. Waffle-iroa BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOt CAKES. 311 Be sure that the side of the iron on which the batter is to be poured is extra hot, and as soon as the first waffles are put in it and the iron is closed, turn it. This method insures Jheir baking on both sides. Fill two-thirds full of the batter. As soon as they are baked, lay them on a plate, butter them, lay another over them, and serve them. Raised Waffles. — ^The best waffles are the old-fashioned kind raised with yeast. These call for a quart of milk, heated boiling hot, and then cooled till lukewarm ; a quart and a cupful of flour, 2 well- beaten eggs and half a cup of butter. Stir the butter into the hot milk, pour it gradually, when it is lukewarm, into the flour, beating out all the lumps. Add the beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar, and, finally, half a yeast cake, dissolved in half a cup of lukewarm water. Beat the batter thoroughly and let it rise over night. Beat it again in the morning, and let it rise 20 minutes more. Fill the irons two-thirds full, first greasing them well. Turn that they may be baked on each side. Butter each as done and lay one upon another. Serve with maple sugar, grated, white sugar or maple syrup. Quick Waffles. — Sift 1 pint of flour 3 times and add 1 teaspoon- ful of salt, ^eat the ^olks of 2 eggs until very light ; add to them 1 cup of rich milk ; add this to the flour, with one tablespoonful of butter melted, and beat until light and smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, add to the butter and beat again. When ready to bake add 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, put the batter in a pitcher, have the waffle-iron very hot and thoroughly greased. Pour in the batter carefully, and, as soon as the edges are set, turn theiron and bake the second side. In making waffles as much de- pends upon the even and quick baking as upon the recipe used. Conuueal Waffles. — Scald 1 pint of Indian meal into a mush. While hot put in a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and one-half teaspoonful salt. Let cool. Meanwhile beat separately the whites and yolks of 3 eggs. Add the eggs to the mush and stir in gradu- ally 1 quart of wheat flour. . Add one-half pint buttermilk or sour cream in which has been dissolved one-half teaspoonful of baking soda. Thin this batter to the proper consistency with a little sweet or sou^r milk. Waffle-irons should be heated in advance that they may be hot when the batter is ready. Butter the irons thoroughly, £11 two-thirds fiill ; bake briskly. 312 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKESr Sally Lunn. Raised Sally Liunn. — This is an excellent receipt for an old- fashioned teacake which is still very poplilar in New England. One quart of flourt 4"eggs, one-half cup of melted butter, 1 cup of warm milk, half an yeast cake. One-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water. Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, add the milk, butter, soda and a little salt. Stir the flour to a smooth batter and beat the yeast in well ; set to rise in a buttered dish, in which it must be baked and sent to table. Let it rise 6 hours. Bake steadily three-quarters of an hour. /'■ Sally liunn. Quick. — t)ne-half cup of butter, half cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet milk, 2 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda ; to be eaten hot with butter. Bake in a cake tin 25 minutes, or until a straw thrust into them gently comes up free frorp dough. To Serve Sally Liunn (English. Way). — Cut them thin, and toast both sides; butter well, then place together again. This is the way they are served in England. They are very nice. Various Oom Cakes and Johimy Cakes./- Corn Cake. — Sour milk can be used in making various kinds of corn bread, and many cooks prefer it, in a majority of cases, to sweet milk. Here is a recipe in which it is excellent: Mix together 2 cups of cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of salt and 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. Stir into 2 cups of sour milk; add a tablespoonful of melted butter, 2 well-beaten eggs and a teaspoonful of soda; beat thoroughly and bake in shallow pans in a hot oven. Custard Com Cake. — ^Oneand two-thirds cups of cornmeal, one- third cup flourj butter size of an egg, 1 cup sour milk, 1 scant teaspoon of soda, 2 cups sweet milk, one-quarter cup of sugar, 2 eggs ; mix the dry materials together, beat the eggs, add 1 cup of sweet milk and 1 of sour ; save 1 cup of sweet milk to pour over the whole when in the spider; put butter in spider, let it get hot, pour in the batter, let bake in moderate oven 1 hour. There is something in baking in the iron spider or frying-pan that seems to improve the cake, though it can be baked in an ordinary pan, Corii Pop-overs. — Boil 1 pint of milk, stir in 1 cup of cornmeal, butter^ size of walnut, piAcb of salt; when cold add 3 eggs, yolks and BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 313 whites beaten separately. Bake 20 minutes in gem tins, which should be hot and well greased. Parker House Corn Cake. — One egg and small piece of butter; add sugar or molasses to taste; 1 coffee-cup of Indian meal and 1 coffee- cup of flour, 3 teaspoons of baking powder and 1 cup of milk. Sweetened Jolinny Cake. — One pint buttermilk, half cupful mo- lasses, 2 cupfuls cornmeal, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 cupful wheat flour, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 egg. Use less sweetening, if preferred. Bake in a quick oven. This rule will make two cakes. Use round tins. Cakes rise better in round tins. Some cooks use a small iron frying-pan. Serve hotwith plenty of butter. This same batter will make good cornmeal muffins. It can also be dropped by spoonfuls on a hot greased griddle and turned with a pancake turner. Cakes baked in this way are light and delicious. Tear apart and butter. It also makes a gpod fritter batter to fry in hot lard. If sweet milk is used, add 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Suet Johnny Cake. — One cup of suet chopped fine, half a cup of sugar, 1 }4 cups of sour milk, small teaspoon of baking soda, a pinch of salt, cornmeal enough to make a stiff batter ; bake in a quick oven. Golden Johnny Cake. — Cook in steamer and pulp fine 1 fine grain squash (Hubbard is the best), thicken 1 pint sweet milk witb the squash pulp until the consistency of rich cream, sweeten lightlj with white sugar. Take 3 parts Indian meal, 1 part best flour, thp S14 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. quantity being sufficient to make ulual Johnny cake batter ; add 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, one-half- teacupful raisins, 1 teacupful currants, 1 pinch salt. A little good butter worked in when pulping the squash improves the cake. The suet can be omitted. Griddle Cakes. Suggestions. — ^A very little shortening added to griddle cakes or pancakes, makes them more tender. . A soapstone griddle for hot "cakes requires no greasing. A substitute for fat will be found in rub- bing the griddle with the cut side of a white turnip ; there will be no smoke or taste. If fat i^ used, put on very little. The first lot of griddle cakes is never quite as good as those that follow, because the iron is smooth and the heat even after use. Serve them smoking hot, straight from the stove, and _of a delicate golden brown. Send with them maple syrup, grated maple sugar, or syrup made from melted sugar. A little water added to buttermilk, will prevent cakes being sticky. Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint of buckwheat flour, half teaspoon- ful salt, half cupful cornmeal, Graham or wheat flour ; 3 tablespoonfuls soil yeast, or one quarter yeast cake, dissolved jn warm water ; 1 tablespoonful molasses, 1 quart warm water to make a batter, or sweet milk and water mixed. Beat thoroughly. Set to rise in a large pitcher or, better still, a regular pancake pait with a spout fbr conve- nience in pouring out the batter to bake. Set the batter to rise early in the evening, in a moderately warm place, where the temperature will not vary. In the morning thin with a little sweet milk, in which half teaspoonful soda has been dissolved, or warm water can be used. Grease the griddle with a piece of beef suet, cut from the beefsteak ; always leave a cupful at the bottom to start with, instead of using yeast, after the first time. If the family is large, use twic« the quan- tity of flour. The Indian meal should have boiling -water poured over it before adding it to the batter. Some cooks add a well-beaten egg to the batter. -^ Quick Buckwheat Cakes. — One pint buckwheat, sifted with 2 heaping teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, Itablespoon- ful molasses or brown sugar, to make them brown well. Enough water to make a batter. Bake at once. A little wheat flour and corn meal can be added. BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. 315 Graham Griddle Cakes, Raised. — ^Two cups of Graham Hour, 4 cupfuls wheat flour, 3 tablespoonfuls yeast or one quarter yeast cake, dissolved in warm water. Warm water or milk to make a thin batter. Set in a warm place over night. In the tedrning reserve 1 cupful of the batter for yeast next time. Into the remainder stir half teaspoon- ful of soda, dissolved in sweet milk or warm water. A well-beaten egg is a nice addition. These are considered more wholesome than buckwheat cakes, and closely resemble them in taste. Wheat griddle cakes can be made in the same way. Quick Graham Cakes. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in 1 spoon- ful of sour milk ; put it in 1 pint of sour milk ; mix together a cupful of sifted Graham and a cupful of wheat flour ; stir in slowly, beating well ; add half teaspoon- ful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of sour cream, 1 egg, well beaten ; add more flour if too thin, and more milk or water, if too thick. The same rule can be used with sweet milk, and the addition of 2 level teaspoonfuls of cream tartar ; or baking powder may „ ^ be used instead. If baking Soapstone Gnddle. powder is used, omit the soda. These cakes are nice without the egg. Bye Griddle Cakes. — One cup sour milk, 2 tablespoonfuls mo- lasses, half teaspoonful soda, half cup wheat flour, 1 egg, well beaten, half teaspoonful salt. Enough rye flour to make a batter about the thickness of'cake batter. Beat it thoroughly. Bake on a hot griddle. Flamiel Cakes. — One pint sour milk or sour cream, 3 level tea- spoonfuls melted lard or butter, if milk is used ; 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful soda ; flour for batter to bake on griddle. Leave the whites of eggs till just before baking, then beat very light and stir in lightly. ' Flapjacks. —Make a batter of 1 pint of sour milk, 1 even tea- spoonful of baking soda and a little salt, with wheat flour enough to thicken sufficiently to fry nicely. Fry in cakes the size of an ordinary breakfast plate. Butter each cake and sprinkle it with sugar, piling 316 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. them one on top of another. A little grated nutmeg improves them, Have the batter as thin as it is possible to turn the cakes well. These are delicious, especially if sour cream is used. Wlieat Pancakes, Sweet Milk. — One egg, 1 pint of sweet milk, 1 teaspoonful soda, 2 teaspoonfuls cream-tarter, 1 teaspoonful butter, or lard will make more tender. Add flour to make a batter. The eggs can be omitted. Bake on a hot griddle. Oriddle Bolls. — Prepare an ordinary wheat-cake batter; have the gridiron hot ; bake each cake the size of a lunch plate. Soon as each cake is done, quickly spread with butter and cover with maple sugar, roll into a neat roll, lay in covered dish, place over boiling water till all are done, then serve. Crushed \rheat Griddle Cakes. — 1 cupful crushed wheat, 1^ pints flour, 1 teaspoonful brown sugar, half teaspoonful salt, 2 tea- spoopfuls baking powder, 1 egg, 1 pint of milk, sweet. Boil the crushed wheat in three-quarters pint of water 1 hour, then dilute with beaten egg and milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt, and powder ; add to crushed wheat preparation when quite cold, mix into smooth batter. Bake on hot griddle ; brown delicately on both sides; serve with cream sauce, or serve with butter and syrup. Swedisb Griddle Cakes. — One pint wheat flour, sifted ; 6 eggs, beaten separately 20 minutes and bake on a hot griddle. Make this when setting bread at night, and use half cupful of sponge for yeast. Oyster Pan Cakes, a Supper Dish. — Put half cupful of sour cream in a pint measure, fill it up with sour milk. Pour' in a dish, thicken with wheat flour. Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a table- spoonful of hot water, stir into the batter; add half teaspoonful salt, and 2 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, the yolks first. Beat well, lastly add the whites. The batter should be of the same con- sistency as other pancakes ; have -a few oysters ready, set them over .the fire in their own liquor until the edges begin to curl; remove them, drain, and sprinkle a dust of salt over them ; when the batter is on the griddle, put 2 oysters on the top of each cake before baking, turn and brown. Dessert Pancakes. Grandma's Griddle Cakes.'^Make batter as for Oyster Pan- cakes. Have a smooth iron frying pan greased with butter on top of the range: when hot, pour in enough batter to cover the bottom, tura BREAD, BISCUITS, RQLLS AND HOT CAKES. 317 the pan around often, and with a .pancake-turner loosen it. When brown, lift carefully and turn over. Have a very large plate hot, and when the cake is done, lift it to the plate, keep hot and bak? another, spread each one with butter and maple sugar shaved fine; as fast as baked, pile on top of the others ; when five or six are baked, cut through the centre, then cut each half in four equal parts like apiece of pie. These are delicious for tea or for dessert. Pancakes a la Celestiue. — Into a deep bowl sift 1 pint of flour and add a tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspo^ful of salt. Have ready either a pint of cream or 1 of milk with 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter in it. Break 3 eggs into the flour, add a spoonful or 2 of the milk to make beating easier, and beat all till a smooth batter. Add the milk or cream at the last. The batter miist be very thin, and they are to be baked as large as a breakfast plate. As soon as a delicate brown, spread with strawberry or any jam preferred, and roll, dredging a little powdered sugar over each and serving them very hot. Pancakes with Sauce. — Make pancakes, after any desired rule. Bake them the size of a breakfast plate, and make the following sauce. Sauce : 1 quart of sweet milk, let boil up. Dissolve 1 tables spoonful in a little cold milk or water. Add pinch of salt, a luttip of butter size of walnut, stir into the boiling milk. Sweeten to taste and flavor with lemon. Have this sauce ready, and as the cakes are baked place in a deep dish, turning sauce over each cake as they are taken from the griddle, placing one over the other. Cut down through them all in triangular pieces to serve. Scotcb Scones. — There are two kinds of scones, one made of raised dough, the other of sour milk. To make the former, proceed as for making raised biscuits. When raised enough to prepare for baking, roll about an inch or less thick, dot thickly with currants or small raisins, pressing them into the dough. Bake in a, round tin, score almost through the dough to make quarters, and wet these cuttings to keep them from coming together. Glaze the outside with sugar melted in water. The quickly made scones are made like sour- milk biscuit, making the dough rather sweet ; or they may be made of sweet milk, like baking-powder biscuits, but they must be round, filled with raisins, marked in quarters, and glazed, or they are not scones. They are very good either hot or cold. 318 BREAD, BISCUITS, ROLLS AND HOT CAKES. Crackers. Com Starch Crackers. — One and a-half pint flour, half pint com starch, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 tablespoonful lard, half pint liiilk (sweet). Sifr together flour, corn starch, salt, sugar and powder; rub in lard cold", add milk, and mix into smooth, firm dough. Flour the board a little, turn out dough, give few quick, vigorous kneadings to complete smoothness. Set it under cloth ten minutes. Then roll it with a rolling-pin exceedingly thin, cut with round cutter, pricking each cracker with a fork, lay up6n slightly greased baking tin, wash over with milk, and bake in a hot oven for 7 or 8 minutes. When cold, store them for use. Milk Cpack€rs.-^-Rub one-half cupful butter with 3 cups of flour; dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in one-quarter of a cupful of water and stir in the flour. Add 1 teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tar- tar and sweet milk enough to make a stifl" dough. Knead well, beat with the rolling-pin, pounding it out thin. Roll out, cut with a bis- cuit cutter, prick with a fork and bake quickly. Soda Crackers. — Five cups of unsifted flour, one-half cupful lard, one-half teaspoonful soda, one-half teaspoonful salt. Rub all thor- oughly in the flour. Add cold water su^cient to knead up stifi^ beat with the rolling-pin 15 or 20 minutes. Roll thin as for pie crust, cut in squares, prick jwith a fork and bake in a moderate oven until they are just touched with a pale brown. Grabam Crackers. — One quart best Graham, 1 tablespoonful sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt, one-half teaspoonful baking powder, 2 table- spoonfuls butter, one-half pint milk, good measure. Sift -together Graham, sugar, salt and powder ; rub in lard cold, add milk, mix into smooth, consistent dough. Flour the board, turn out dough, knead well 5 minutes. Roll with rolling-pin to thickness of one-quarter of an inch ; cut with knife into small, envelope-shape crackers. Bak^ in father hot oven with care (as they burn readily) 10 minutes. Handle carefully* while hot ; when cold store for use. Graham Cream Crackers. — ^Take 1 part of cream to 4 parts ol milk, mix with flour, as soft as can be handled ; knead 20 minutes ; roll very thin ; cut square and bake quickly. Handle carefully while hot ; pack away in a stone jar when cooL In thickening all kinds of soups and gravies, where flour is used, a much bet- ter way is to stir the dry flour into butter, ^'^ or into the fat in the pan where meat is roasted, and stir until smooth ; then slowly add to the thickened butter or fat the soup or water for the gravy. In this way there will never be lumps to make it necessary to strain. When yolks of eggs are used for thickening a soup or sauce beat them well, then add a gill of cold hquid to every 2 yolks. Stir it into the hot liquid and stir it all the time the dish is on the fire!, which should never be more than a minute. Gravy will generally be lifmpy if the thickening is poured in while the pan is over the fire. Set the pan off until the thickening is well stirred in, then place on the fire again and cook thoroughly. A too rapid boiling ruins the flavor of any sauce; it must boil once, but should never more than simmer afterwards. When sauce boils from the side of the pan it is done. Browning for Gravies. — Put 1 pound of lump sugar into an iron pan with a smallcupful of water, place on a hot stove and allow it to boil until it burns ; then add 1 pint of boiling water. Pour off the liquid, which, when cold, bottle for use. A few drops of this added to gravies, etc., will make them a beautiful rich brown. Browned Flour; — Sift a quart of flour into a dripping pan, set in a hot oven. Stir well; do not burn. When it is rather a dark brown, put in a glass jar. One-third more of this is needed than of raw flour. Glace to Use. — Glace is merely very strong gravy boiled db\yn until it is of the consistency of liquid jelly; when it is of this thicks ness pour it from the saucepan at once or it will burn ; when it is re- quired for use stand the jar in which it is kept in a pan of boiling water,"^nd melt it gently; to glace cutlets or meats, lay it on with a brush until it forms a varnish. Boux for Gravies, etc. — A roux is simply flour and butter melted together, and is really the foundation of most gravies and sauces. Take a tablespoonful of butter, put in a hot saucepan ; when it melts 319 320 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. ftnd is quite hot, stir in gradually 1 tablespoonful of flour. When it is thoroughly blended, it is ready for the foundation of any sort of gravy. If onion flavor is liked, put some minced onion in the butter and flour, and let it simmer, stirring all the time, until it is a delicate reddish brown. Drawn Butter Sauce. — Put 1 tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour into a saucepan; when melted and smooth, add one-half pint of boiling water ; stir constantly until boiling ; add a half-teaspoon- ful of salt, anothfef tablespoonful of butter, cut into bits, a dash of pepper and the juice of half a lemoft. If preferred, add milk instead of water to make the sauce, and omit the lemon. Soup stock is sometimes used instead of water or milk. If this is to be served with fish, cut up several hard-boiled eggs and add to it. Seasoned with curry powder, it is converted into a curry sauce. A covered saucepan lined with porcelain will be best to use. If the sauce is a little too thick, add more milk or water, hot, until it is the consistency of thick cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. This is excei- ''Int to serve up minced remnants of chicken or veal in ragouts. Brown Butter Sauce.^Let the floui- and butter blend together over the fire as above, but^stir slowly until the mixture is thoroughly browned, but not burned, adding a few slices of onion. Water can be used to thin, but the proper mixing is soup stock. This sauce csm be seasoned with spices, salt, pepper and chopped pickles ; whole peppers, 4 or 5 allspice, a spray of parsley are suitable for seasoning, also mushrooms or capers. This makes a brown ragout, and is suit- able for beef and venison ragouts. Cream Saiice. — Two tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 1 cupful of milk or cream. Rub butter and flour smooth over the fi?e in a saucepan and add the boiling milk slowly. Stir until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper. This is a nice sauce for nearly every kiijd of vegetable and also for fish. Chopped hard- boiled eggs are an addition to it, if for fish. WMte Sauce. — One cupful white soup stock, 1 cupful of milk, a little minced onion, 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 2 tablespoonfuls but ter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful pepper, 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cook butter and onion to- gether 10 minutes. Stir in the flour slowly and smoothly. Add the boiling stock, let boil up and add the milk or seasoning, and serve; SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 321 add the lemon juice. This sauce may be used for boiled or baked fish, meats or game. Oyster Sauce. — To make oyster sauce, put 1 pint of small oysters, with their liquor, into a saucepan, and heat them to boiling point. Skim out the oysters and add to the liquor 1^ cups of milk, and when it is boiling add one-third of a cup of butter, creamed with 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. Season with salt and cayenne pepper, and let the sauce boil up once. Then add the oysters, and it is ready to serve. Extremely nice with boiled turkey and chicken. Celery Sauce. — Boil 5 or 6 heads of celery (removing the green portions and cutting up the remainder). When tender, drain. Mix 1 tablespoonful of flour with a little cold milk and stir into a pint of cream or milk. Turn over the celery. Add 1 tablespoonful of but- ter, season with salt, and let boil up. Nice for boiled fowls. Nasturtiulu Sauce. — An excellent substitute for capers are nas- turtium seeds. Soak the seeds in a strong brine 36 hours, drain and throw into fresh water and let them remain over night. Drain again and place in bottles. Take a few pieces of mace, some whole pepper corns, and a little sugar, and put in the viflegaf and let it come to a boil. Pour on the seeds and cork immediately. Caper Sauce. — To 1 pint of drawn butter add 1 tablespoonful of capers with the vinegar from the bottle. Serve with boiled mutton. liobster Sauce. — Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 1 tablespoon- ful of flour in a bowl, set in boiling water and stir gradually until thick ; add half a teaspoonful of salt and a teacupful of boiling water. Take from the fire and stir in a teacupful of finely-chopped boiled lobster and serve. Egg Sauce. — Make a white sauce with one-half pint of milk, a lump of butter, salt and flour to thicken. Take 3 hard-boiled eggs, remove the shells and cut them up when the sauce is cooked. Stir Ihem with the eggs and serve. This sauce is delicious with boiled Ash. Brown Gravy. — Remove nearly all the fat from the gravy in the pan and add to it enough hot water to make the required quantity, add browned flour dry until it is thick enough, then strain it and add to each cupful of the gravy half a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and 1 tablespoonful each of chopped pickles and capers. COOK— 21 ■S'^'&'S^t^'S. PossiBi,Y the least expensive' article put up by housekeepers for winter use is catsup, a variety of which can be made at very small cost The tomato and cucumber are the best vegetables for the purpose, and can be used both ripe and green. They may be cooked and seasoned in a number of different ways, or made in their raw state. The best and most perfect Vegetables and fruits only should be used for catsups; the spices should be pure, and so commingled as to prevent any one prevailing to the exclusion of others; cloves, allspice, mace and cinnamon being generally used. Onions, garlic, horse-radish, black and white mustard seed, with celery seed, give an e?tcellent flavor. The vinegar used should be pure and strong. A porcelain-lined kettle is best for cooking catsups. After being made, they should be bottled or put in glass jars, sealed and kept in a cool, dry place. Catsups from fruits such as gooseberries, grapes or currants, may be made from the canned fruit at any convenient time, but are better made from the fresh fruit. In making catsups, - if whole spices tied up in cloth are used while boiling down, the article will be left a clear red. Tomato catsup is many per cent, improved if served hot. To heat with little trouble, fill a smal bottle with enough of the catsup to serve at one time; cork tightly and stand in a dish of cold water, allowing the water to heat gradually to the boiling point. Tomato Catsup.— Twelve ripe tomatoes, peeled ; 2 large onions, 4 green peppers, chopped ; 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 of brown sugar, 2 of ginger, i. of cinnamon, i of mustard, a nutmeg grated, 4 cupfuls of vinegar. Boil all together until thoroughly cooked (about 3 hours), stirring frequently. Bottle while hot. Ied out of place. They should, of course, be removed as soon as emptied. Butter may be made into balls, each ball representing an ounce. Arrange these in a pretty dish on the right. If cream is to be used, measure and put it in a little pitcher on the left. Bottles containing sauces and catsups should also be placed on the left, as well as large materials, such as lobster, etc. This saves much time and confusion. See that the lamp is filled and that matches are at hand before being seated. When a recipe calls for butter and flour rub them together and put them in the dish before serving-time. If butter is to be browned put it in the dish first, then have the flour in a pretty bowl. 834 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. to be added later. Use for stirring a long-handled, polished wooden spdon. This will enable you to work easily and quietly, if you use a light metal dish it becomes at times needful to use the hot water pan ; but with a heavy dish this is not required. Though a desirable possession at all times, the chafing dish is particularly convenient during the " dog days," when bending over the kitchen range becomes insufferable ; and to the summer hostess, especially, this admirable substitute is invaluable. The number of viands that may be prepared on the chafing-dish are numerous and inviting — and their num- ber is constantly increasing. Del- icate and dainty concoctions have so far beea the chief prod* ucts of the chaf- ing dish, but an attempt is being made to cook more substantial Agate Cha&ag Dish Outfit. articles, so that they may be a boon also to the tired housewife whose family requires heartier foods. Welsh Barebit. — ^A good dinner for the beginner to commence on is Welsh rarebit, which can be made exactly as well at home as in the chop-houses of reputation. It is better that the toast should be made below stairs, and timed so that when the rarebit is completed the toast will arrive, perfectly browned, hot and well buttered. But when making rarebit at night after fires are fixed, it becomes neces- sary to make toast also over the chafing dish. This should be done first : Have ready a hot platter and dish of butter. Place over the spirit light first a round asbestos mat, trim the bread and place it on the mat ; toast carefully, butter, and place it on the heated platter. Take cheese of domestic make and cut in tiny pieces. If the cheese is dry, a lump of butter,- the size of a hickory nut, should be put in first. Put in enough cheese to nearly fill the dish, with a sprinkling CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 335 of salt and pepper, and as soon as it begins to melt stir and mix it up constantly witii two silver spoons. When it assumes the conditions of a paste, begin to pour in Bass ale, a tablespoonful at a time, until about a half bottle is used. Have a well-beaten egg ready, and when the cheese^ is like cream pour in the egg ; stir it through evenly and put out the alcohol lamp before the egg can cook into lumps. Have fresh-made toast ready on hot plates and pour 2 or 3 spoonfuls of the melted cheese over each slice. A pleasant addition, smd a digester, as well, is a sprinkling of paprika, or Hungarian pepper, over each rarebit. The secret of success in most chafing dish concoctions is the con- stant stirring with two spoons, which prevents the mixture from grow- ing lumpy. Some cooks use a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, or tomato catsup. A saltspoon of salt is also needed. Escalloped Oysters. — Take a pint of large oysters, 2 tablespoon- fuls of butter, a gill of cream72 tablespoonfuls of cracker dust and some pepper and salt. Put the cream and butter into the chafing dish. Drain the oysters and lay in layers sprinkled well with cracker dust, then another layer of oysters with added cracker, and a little butter, salt and pepper. Cook 10 minutes covered. -Pan Oysters. — Drain 1 quart of select oysters in a colander for several hours in a cool place. Put 2 tablespoons of butter in the chafing dish, season well with salt and pepper. As soon as the but- ter begins to creanl put in the oysters ; stir them thoroughly, cover them and let them steam until well puffed up. Serve on toast. Pan Toast in Gbafing Dish. — Melt a tablespoonful of butter, and, as it creams, add a dozen large oysters, a half pint oyster liquor, salt and pepper. Cover and cook about 10 minutes. Put six of the oys- ters on a thin slice of toast on a hot plate, with sufficient liquid to moisten the toast, and serve. Creamed Oysters with Celery.— One tablespoon butter, 1 table- spoon flour, 1 cup cream, 1 pint large oysters, 1 small bunch celery cut fine. Melt, but do not brown the butter. Add flour and stir until smooth. Pour in cream and stir until smooth ; add salt and pepper, and, if too thick, a little of the oyster liquor. Put in the oysters and let them cook until the edges are thoreughly curled. About 2 minutes before they are done add the celery. Serve on toast 336 CHAFING DISH COOKERY. Creme Oysters. — For a little supper dish put in the chafing dish 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half pint of cream, a saltspoon- ful of salt, a little pepper, a sprinkling of nutmeg and 2 bay leaves. When heated, grate up half a cup of cracker crumbs and add them, "with 25 oysters, blanched and drained. Cook 5 minutes and serve hot! Creamed Oysters. — Put 1 tablespoon of butter in upper dish (setting in water pan), add salt ahd pepper and I pint washed and drained oysters. Cook a few minutes till edges curl, then add the well-beaten yolks of 3 eggs mixed with one-half cup of cream. Watch, and remove as soon as creamy, which will be in 2 or 3 min- utes. Serve on crisp toast. Clams, with head and tough parts re- moved, the hard parts chopped and the black spots pinched out, are very nice served in this way. ^ Oyster Toast.— The oyster toast Tor lunch can he made with the ' chafing dish. The oysters may be minced and mixed with the yolks of 2 eggs and a gill of cream to every dozen oysters, and heated with a tablespoonful of butter, or they may be left whole and heated in a sauce made from the cream and eggs. The toast can be made in the kitchen, and the mush left from breakfast should be sliced and fried on a gas or oil stove to prevent the irons from becoming soiled. Creamed Lobster.'— Put 1 small tablespoonful butter in chafing dish ; when it melts and bubbles add heaping .teaspoon of flour ; stir until melted ; add one-half pint of cream (or milk), let it come to a boil, and add 1 can of lobster and 2 eggs well beaten ; season to taste and boil at least 1 minute. Serve immediately. liobster au Naturel. — ^Take the yolks of 2 eggs, and, after beat- ing them well, add 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, and beat again until very smooth. Boil a lobster, and when cold stir the meat, finely chopped, into»the above mixture. Let it simmer very slowly, but it must not boil. Serve on a well-heated dish. '^ Cream of Clams. — Begin with the usual 2 tablespoonfuls of but- ter, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour when the butter is melted. When blended well stir in the chopped meat of 25 clams and half a pint of clam j nice. Pepper and salt to taste. Cover and let simmer for 10 minutes. Then add a gill of milk, if cream is not forthcoming, and serve as soon as the general bubble has come. Clams a la Maryland. — To cook clams a la Maryland remove the bodies from 20 soft clams. Place the bodies, with 1 tablespoon- CHAFING DISH COOKERY. 337 ful of butter, in a saucepan, add 1 tablespoonful of fine cut truffles, 2 tablespopnfuls of sherry wine, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and cook 8 minutes. Be careful not to stir them. Mix one-half a cupful of cream with the yolks of 2 eggs, add it to the clamS, let it remain a few minutes to heat, but not boil, and then serve. Hashed Little-neck Clams. — Melt a pat of butter into the chafing dish, then put in 3 dozen little-neck clams, hashed fine, and their juice. Add a teaspoonful of chopped shives and 2 of parsley. Cook over open fire until it boils twice, cover on, thicken with bread crumbs, add 2 tablespoonfuls of sherry. Season and serve on buttered toast. Soft Shell Crabs. — Put 4 pats of butter into the chafing dish and let it become very hot ; then put in 4 medium-sized soft-shell crabs, first prepared by removing the lungs and washing thoroughly ; add 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. Cook about 10 minutes, being careful not to burn. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve on toast or plain. Spanish Cream Pudding. — Take one-third of a box of gelatine, 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs, i J^ cups of sugar, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and a pinch of salt. Soak the gelatine 1 hour in milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, add to the milk and pour into the chafiTig dish. Cook 20 minutes, take off and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; after cooling a little, add the vanilla and salt, and beat 5 miputes. Four into a mould and set on the ice. Chocolate Cream. — A very rich and delicious preparation of chocolate to serve occasionally is a cream made in the chafing dish. To make it take 2 squares of a good brand of chocolate, break them up, add 4 tablespoonfuls of boiling water and 4 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, cover and cook 10 minutes. Then add three- fourths of a cupful of cream, put the hot-water pan under the dishj, and stir in the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs. In adding" the yolks of eggs to sauces, creams, etc., it is best either to remove the mixture from the fire or to add a few tablespoonfuls of the hot liquid to the eggs (stirring as you do so) before adding it to the bulk of the mix- ture. You will thus prevent curdling. Mix the yolks well with the rest of the ingredients, and cook until they thicken the liquid slightly. Then add the frothed whites, a salt-spoqnful of salt, and, just before serving, a teaspoonful of vanilla. Serve hot, in small cups, either: with or without whipped cream. With it serve crisp, unsweet- 'wed crackers, bread sticks, or finger-rolls. COOK— 22 An Indian or flour dumpling that is to be tied in a cloth requires plenty of room for the contents to swell.^ Never let the water stop boiling while the dumplings are in the kettler Be sure they are covered with Water completely. Dip the bag, or cloth, in cold 'water for an instant and the dumpling will come out easily. Steaming is easier, and in eveiy way preferable to boiling a pudding or dumpling. Some dumplings are to be baked also. Biscuit crusts, pastry or suet crusts may be made. . Suet Dumplings. — One pint of fine bread crumb?, one-half cup- ful of beef suet chopped fine, 2 eggs, well beaten, l}i teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful (level) of salt, one-half cupful of flour. Wet it with enough sweet milk to make a stiff paste. Make into balls with floured hands. Tie up in separate cloths that have teen wrung out of hot water and floured inside. Leave room to swell. Serve hot, with hot pudding sauce, or with hard sauce or butter and syrup. Plain Dumplings.— Take a pan of nice light biscuit jiist ready for the oven, and when the potatoes are ready to boil for dinner put the biscuit in the' steamer over the kettle. Cook one-half hour or until the potatoes are done. Serve hot with sweetened cream sea- soned with nutmeg. Crushed strawberries or any kind of stewed fruit is nice to serve with them. Tear open with a fork. Baked Apple Dumplings. — Peel, core and quarter any nice kind of apple ; make a light, flaky pastry and roll thin. Cut it in sections as large as a saucer. Lay 2 or 3 quarters of the mellow apple on the pastry and sprinkle it with sugar. Catch up all the corners of the pastry and press firmly together over the apple. Lay them in a bowl or pan, with the smooth side up, and put half a teaspoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of sugar with a little nutmeg on top of each. Pour boiling water an inch deep around them and bake in the stove till the dumplings are nicely browned. Serve hot with sweetened cream for 838 DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 839 sauce, or^ in lieu of cream, the water in which they were steamed makes a well-seasoned sauce. Boiled Apple Dumplings. — Make a rich biscuit, dough. Roll out on the moulding board almost as thin as pie crust. Cut into squares, or rounds, large enough to cover an apple. Pare" and core the apples without dividing them,^nd fill with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon. Chop the suet very finely, rub it into the flour, and mix into a paste with the water ; roll it out to a thin paste, divide in pieces, roll the apples in it, taking care to join the paste neatly ; form into balls, tie in pieces of floured cloth and boil three-quarters of an hour. Serve with a sweet, hot sauce. Another Sauce : One and a half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of butter, 2 spoonfuls of flour. Mix Hour and sugar thoroughly, then work in the butter and pour on 2 teacupfuls of boiling water. Peacb Dumplings. — ^These dumplings may be made of either fresh or canned peaches, but are better of the fresh. Make a rich biscuit crust, cut in sqtiares large enough to fold over the peach, and steam in a steamer for half an hour, being careful not to uncover them during that time. Serve with hard sauce. If the canned peaches are used, two of the halves should be p_ut in each piece of crust, and the-syrup will maloe a delicious sauce by adding 1 cup of sugar, and boiling 10 minutes, then adding a teaspoonful of butter, and a heaping 1 of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water and boiled up once. A dash of nutmeg is an improvement. Plum Dumplings. — These are very attractively made by sifting 3 cupfuls of flour, with which 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder have been mingled, slicing in a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and making into a soft dough with water. Stir in a cupful of plums, using either stewed fresh fruit or the canned article, according to the season. Par- tially fill cups with the batter, set them in a pan of hot water in the oven and steam for half an hour. Invert the dumplings on dessert plates and serve warm with liquid sauce. Strawberry Dumplings. — Into a pint of sifted flour rub 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of butter ; add 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 egg well beaten, 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, and sufficient milk to moisten. Mix quickly and roll out into a thin sheet, about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out with a round biscuit cutter, place 4 berries in the centre of each, fold the edges over and steam about 340 DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 25 minutes. Serve with strawberry sauce, or any other good hard sauce. Dough Dumplings. — Risen bread dough made into balls the size of apples and boiled a long time in a kettle of boiling water are nice eaten hot with molasses. A little shortening may be used. Berry Dumplings. — Most berries make good dumplings, among which are gooseberries, whortleberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc. Roll out biscuit dough, cut in- squsires, put a spoonful of berries on, bring corners together, place on a buttered tin. Melt a tablespoon- ful of butter, a heaping spoonful of sugar, one-half cupful of hot water.. Dip over the squares. Sprinkle with sugar and bake. See " Strawberry Dumplings." Blee Apple Dumplings. — Boil a cupful of rice until about done — about 30 minutes-^then drain. Take a square of cheesecloth, put the rice, the size of a saucer, in the centre of the cloth, put the apple in the cefitre of this, then fold up the corners of the cloth so as to fold the rice over the whole evehly. Tie tightly and throw into a kettle of boiling water, boil rapidly for 20 minutes, untie, and they are ready to serve. Serve with them any preferred sauce. Bice DumpUngd. — Take a cupful ^of boiled rice, mash it fine, add to it 1 tablespoonful of Ijutter, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, one- quarter teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg. Moisten with a tablespoonful or two of cream ; flour the hands and make into balls ; tie in floured cloths. Steam or boil 40 minutes. Serve with custard sauce or some preferred pudding sauce. Preserve Dumplings. — Make same as strawberry or other berry dumplings, and put in a spoonful of rich preserves, any kind. Tie in cloths and boil 30 minutes. Send hot to table ; eat with sweet cream. Liemon Dumplings. — One pint of grated -bread crumbs, one-half cupful chopped suet, one-half cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 1 level tablespoonful of flour, the grated yellow rind of a lemon. Moisten all with the whites and yolks of 2 well-beaten eggs and the juice of 1 lemon. Stir and put the mixture in small, well-buttered balls. Tie over each a floured cloth and boil or steam three-quarters of an hour. Turn out, and serve with any preferred sauce. Wine sauce is nice. Puff BaUs.— A piece of butter the size of an egg stirred with 3 weil-beaten eggs, one-half cupful sour cream, a pinch of salt. StiC well and make into a stiff batter with flour. Drop by spoonfuls into DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. 341 boiling water. Cook until the puffs rise to the surface. Dish hot with melted butter and serve for a side dish, or else with a sweet sauce for dessert. Strawberry Short Cake. — Put 1 quart of flour into a bowl, add 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful of salt and sift twice. Rub into this 1 tablespoonful of butter, and then add sufficient milk to make a soft dough, about 1 JE^ cups. Take this out on the board and roll it out in a sheet about 1 inch thick. With a knife make it perfectly square, and put in a square, greased pan and bake, having the centre a little thinner than the edges. Have ready 3 boxes of berries, stemmed and mashed. Take a potato-mashe^^ and mash in the bowl, and then stir in a cup of sugar. After the cake has baked thoroughly, about 20 minutes, take it from the fire, and with a knife strip the edges and pull apart. Put one portion in a large platter and butter it thickly. Then cover up with strawberries. Put on the crust, cover it with strawberries, and serve at once with a good-sized pitcher of cold milk or cream. Instead of tearing the short cake apartj divide the dough into 2 or 3 parts, place the layers in the same tin, spreading meltgd butter between them. When baked, the layers will separate easily, and then proceed with the short cake as above. It may also be served cold. , Cream Strawberry Short tlake. — One pint of sour cream, 1 tea spoonful soda, pinch of salt. Flour to make a soft dough. Roll out 1^ inches thick, bake, tear apart, and butter, or else bake in layers, one above the other, in the same pan, buttering between each one. Prepare with berries as above. Serve with whipped or unwhipped cream. Whipped cream should always be preferred, since the un- whipped penetrates into the short cake, rendering it sodden and un-. wholesome. Quick Strawberry Short Cake. — Three heaping cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar and 1 teaspoon of saleratus sifted with flour, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a little salt and 1 tablespoon of melted butter worked into the flour ; then add 1 well-beaten egg and 2 cups of milk y do not roll and knead on board, but put in biscuit pans soft, spread evenly with a great spoon ; this rficipe makes 2 short cakes ; bake in a hot oven 15 minutes ; when done split and spread on butter ; take 2 boxes of strawberries, hull and crush slightly in a d?ep dish, then add 1^ cups of sugar and spread between the tw» 842 DUMPLINGS, SHORT CAKES, ETC. layers ; spread a little butter over the top of short cake, or whipped cream over the top is very nice. Peach Short Cake. — Peach short cake is considered by many finer than istrawberry. Peal and slice one dozen mellow pesshes. Put the fruit in a dish, sprinkle with granulated sugar and let stand half an hour. Make an ordinary short cake, roll the dough out to an inch in thickness and the size of jelly-cake tins. Place on biittered tins and bake in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour. When the cakes are baked, with a sharp knife split around the edge and break apart. Butter the lower piece and spread thick with sliced peaches. Place the other cake on top of the peaches and cover with the re* maining fruit. Serve hot with cream. Peach Cobbler. — Fill a shallow pudding dish with peaches which have been pared and cut in half Remove seeds, sprinkle well with sugar and flour. ~ Fill about half full of water, cover with rich pie crust, bake in a slow oven 1 hour. To be eaten with cream sauce. Apple Short Cake.-^Mix a stiff batter as for biscuit. Put in a deep pie-tin with a spoon ; bake separate, butter well and fill with a thick layer of very nice tart apple sauce. Sprinkle with sugar, re- place the top, dusting over with sugar, and serve plain, "with sweet- ened cream or milk. Other fruit may be served in the same way. Powdered sugar is best. Currant Short Cake. — Make crust same as for strawberries, mash currants, sweeten plentifully, and you will hardly miss the straw- berries. , y . Liemon Short Cake. — Make a rich short cake. Bake in jelly- cake tins ; let cool and spread with the lemon filling for letnon layer cake. Dust sugar over the top and serve. Jelly Short Cake. — Can be made in the same way, substituting jelly for lemon butter. Pineapple Short Cake. — ^Take half a cupful of butter, 1 cupful of sugar, half a cupful of milk, 2 cupfuls of flour and 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in 2 layers and spread chopped pineapple between the layer's after the cake is cold. This recipe is very popu- lar down where the pines grow, but any recipe for strawberry short cake will do as well by substituting the pine for the berries. Rhubarb Short Cake. — Make a rich biscuit crust. When baked, split ; butter and place between the^ layers and on top a sauce made DUMPLINGS. SHORT CAKES, ETC 843 as toUows : Two cupfuls of rhubarb, stewed and sweetenea, to which has been added, just before removing from the stove, 1 cupful of chopped dates. This filling may be used for one-crust pies, but should be_cooled before putting in the crust and a meringue spread on the top. Huckleberry Short Cake. — One quart huckleberries, 4 cups flour, 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Sift the salt with the flour and baking powder, chop in the shortening, add the milk and the beaten eggs, and mix quickly to a light dough. Roll out two sheets to fit a baking pan, making one sheet quarter of an inch thick, the other half an inch thick. Lay the thinner in the greased pan, spread the berries thickly over it, sprinkle with sugar, and lay on the upper crust. Bake about 20 minutes. Serve with cream and sugar, if desired. Chicago Short Cake. — ^Two tablespoonfuls butter and 1 teaspoon- ful baking powder mixed thoroughly with 1 quart of flour, enough cold water to form a soft dough. Roll about a half inch in thickness and place on a hot griddle, well greased. When brown on both sides, split with a sharp knife and butter, then lay the pieces together again. Five or six of these cakes can be laid one on top of the other and Icept warm for half an hour if necessary. To serve, cut in quarters like a pie. A pleasant addition, if desired, is to put jelly or preserves between the layers. Or simply butter and serve with honey or maple syrup. Chicken Shortcake. — Make a biscuit dough by a baking-powder recipe and shorten it with butter. Divide it into three parts. Make one part into a cake, the size and shape of your platter, and bake it. Stew the chicken until tender, seasoning with thyme, pepper and salt. Split the shortcake, buttering both inner sides. Arrangd the chicken on the lower half, cover with the upper, and pour over it as much gravy as it will take. Serve the rest in the gravy-boat. Sweet Shortcake. — ^Three tablespoonfuls butter creamed with a cup of powdered sugar, 3 eggs beaten separately, 1 cup sweet milk, 23^ tups of flour, 3 tablespoonfuls baking powder. Bake in layers. Few persons appreciate how many dainty and palatable dishes may be made with cheese. It is authoritatively stated that cheese taken after a hearty meal or rich dessert acts as a digestive. Those who are fond of cheese will find the following recipes worthy of a trial, and those who do not know how appetizing cheese may be made will have many a dainty dish in store for them. It is becoming more and more the habit of epicurean households to serve the cheese with the salad. That it harmonizes better with our dinners when served at that point is the natural result of the place we give to sweets. The French, who put it just before the coffee, do not care for anything in the line of dessert, and count the sweets a very unimportant detail of the dinner. Split common crackers, butter them slightly on each side, dust salt over them and brown in a hot oven. They are delicious with coffee and cheese. We all know how soon cheese dries up and is unfit for the table, but this same waste cheese can be made as good as new, and vfery nice-looking, by grating fine on a ^^horseradish grater. Prepare only as much as'is needed for immediate use, and you will find it good enough for anybody. How to Keep Cheese from Mouldingr. — Place the cheese in a cloth, wet with good cider vinegar, which is to be wrapped closely around the cheese. Not only will cheese be kept from moulding, but a ham in the same way. Busk for Cheese. — Break the bread into small, rough pieces, dip each one quickly in and out of cold milk; put them upon a perfectly- clean baking tin and bake in a hot oven. In a few minutes they will be crisp, when they must be taken out, allowed to ge]t cold and put away in a tin canister, to be used when required. , Cheese Straws. — Roll thin a rich pie-crust and spread thickly with grated cheese and a dash of cayenne pepper. Fold over several times, roll again, and spread with cheese, repeating this process three times. Then roll out one-eighth of an inch thick ; cut in strips 4 inches 344 CHEESE DISHES. 345 wide, and cut this paste in sticks one-eighth of an inch wide. > Cut some of the paste in small rings,,^lace both on buttered sheets, and bake in oven till light brown. Serve the straws through the rings like a bundle of sticks, or tie in bundles with bright ribbons. These are to be served with salad. Cheese Fingers. — ^RoU out a sheet of very light puff paste ; brush it over lightly with ice-water, cut in narrow strips, 5 or 6 inches long ; sprinkle with grated cheese, lay two strips together, arrange on a greased tin sheet, and bake in a quick oven for 15 minutes. Cheese Crusts. — They are made from half slices of stale bread, after trimming off t^e hard crust. Upon these oblongs of bread put a tablespoon of gratfed cheese, and brown slightly in the oven. These may be served hot or cold. Cheese Toast. — Spread thin slices of bread toasted a light brown with butter. Heap grated cheese on the slices of toast, sprinkle on half a teaspoon of mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoon of salt and a speck of cayenne. Put in a hot oven till the cheese begins to melt. Serve at once. Cheese Toast, Deviled. — Four tablespoonfuls grated cheese, 2 egg yolks, 4 tablespoonfuls grated bread, 2 tablespoonfuls butter. Beat the whole well together with a dessertspoonful of dry mustard and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread lightly and cut it into small round or square pieces, spread -the paste thick upon them, and place them in a hot oven and cover with a dish until heated. Then remove the dish and let the cheese mixture brown a little, and serve as soon as possible. Cheese Toast-— II. Cut from a stale loaf of bread 6 slices about one-half inch thick. JBeat 1 egg into a cupful of sweet milk, and add one-half pound of good cheese and 1 tablespoonful of butter. Put this mixture in a clean saucepan, set in a pan of boiling water and stir until quite smooth. Place the toast on a hot platter and cover with the dressing, in which should be added a pinch of cayenne. For a change this dish can be placed in the oven until a rich brown. It serves for luncheon or for a dinner course. Custard Cheese. — Remove the crust from 4 or 5 slices of bread and butter generously. Arrange in a buttered baking pan and sprinkle with some good sharp cheese. Beat well 4 eggs, add 3 cup- els of new milk and season with salt and a dash of cayenne. Pour 848 CHEESE DISHES. the mixture over the bread and bake in a hot oven until very nicely browned. Cheese Canapes. — Cut bread into slices one-quarter inch thick, 4 inches long and 2 inches wide; spread it with butter and sprinkle it with salt and cayenne; cover the top .with grated American cheese or with grated Parmesan cheese, and bake It in the oven until the cheese is softened. Serve at once, before the cheese hardens. Cheese Squkres. — Trim pieces of stale bread as neatly as pos- sible into squares and triangles. Make a sauce of a cupful of milk, half a cupful of grated cheese and 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Lay the bread on a large flat baking dish ; pour the sauce over and bake until nicely browned. These are also very nice to serve with a plain consomme soup. Cheese Crackers, — ^A dainty morsel for the hungry half hour be- fore bedtime is " cheese-crackers." Spread thin zephyrettes or salted crsttkers with a little butter and sprinkle lightly with grated Parmesan ^heese. Place on a dish in the oven long enough to brown them slightly. These will keep for several days. Deviled Cheese Crackers. — Cover Saratoga flakes with grated old cheese, give a sharp sifting of cayenne pepper, place in oven until cheese is melted. Serve hot, using ordinary small, round crackers. Cheese Flakes. — Buy a smal]. bpx of reception flakes, such as can be found at any first-class grocery. Butter each cracker, then grate cheese on them, place in pan, put in a quick oven and brown. These are delicious flakes for a whist party or picnics. launch Crackers. — rSplit common crackers, butter them slightly on each side, dust salt overthem, and brown in a hot oven. They are delicious with coffee and cheese. Deviled Biscuit and Cheese. — ^Take water tiscuits, split them and butter each half generously. Sprinkle over it a layer of cheese. Se( these in a baking pan. Dust over with cayenne, and set in a quick oven for about 5 minutes. When cheese is melted serve very hot. Welsh Karebit.-^To make a highly seasoned rarebit place over the fire in a saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and when it becomes melted put in 2 cups of cheese, broken into small pieces, a salt spoon- ful of salt, Vnd half as much red pepper. Stir all the while, and when it becomes a soft mass, gradually stir into it 1 cup. of ale. Meanwhile take the yolks of 2 eggs and add to them 3 teaspoonfuls of dry mus- CHEESE DISHES. 347 •tard, the * me quantity of Worcestershire sauce, and half a dozen drops of tf basco, and add this to the cheese mixture. If too thick add a little more ale. Pour over square pieces of toastand serve at once. W4lsb Rarebit (without Ale). — A very simple and delicious rarebit mjybe made with 1 pound of cheese broken into pieces and put in a saucepan with half a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful of French mustard, a dash of paprika, a little salt, and 1 teaspoohful of Worcestershire sauce. Place over the fire and stir until the cheese becomes melted. Have -ready squares of toast, and pour the cheese mixture Dver them and serve immediately. , Golden Buck. — Make same as above recipe, with the addition of a poached egg upon the top of each slice of toast and cheese mixture. Torkshire Buck. — Same as a rarebit, with the addition of 2 strips of crisp bacon and 1 poached egg on top of each slice. Celery Cheese. — ^Take a head of delery, wash thoroughly, and boil until tender ; drain well, and cut into small pieces. Have ready a half pint of cream and drawn butter, add pepper, salt and an ounce of grated cheese to it, put the celery into the sauce for a few minutes, then fill buttered scallop shells with the mixture, scatter grated cheese over the top, and bake for 10 minutes in a quick oven, when the cheese should be evenly browned. Brown Bread Savories. — Mix a sufficient quantity of grated cheese with thick cream until stiff, cut some slices of thin brown bread and butter, and spread between them the mixture, seasoned with a dust of pepper and celery salt. These should be eaten without delay. Cheese Puffs^ — Place 4 ounces of grated cheese in a saucepan, with 1 j4 ounces of butter. Put over the fire, and when the ingre- dients begin to melt add 4 eggs beaten light, a saltspoon of salt, and half as much cayenne. Stir and cook until you can roll it up into a soft muff-shaped form, when serve at once. Cheese Bingrs. — ^Take 2 ounces of grated cheese. It should be dry and rich. Mix with twice the quantity of sifted flour, salt to taste, and flavor with a teaspoonful of white pepper and a little cay- enne. Add the yolks of 2 eggs beaten light, the juice of a large, fresh lemon, and enough melted butter to form a paste. Roll it until an eighth of an inch thick. Make in small rings, flour them and let them bake until crisp. Tie them together when cool, 3 in a bunch, with narrow ribbon, and lay beside each plate. CHEESE DISHES. Cheese Timbale. — Six eggs, 1 gill of milk, salt and pepper to taste, 2 tablespoons of grated cheese. Beat the eggs well without separating the yolks and whites, add the milk and seasoning ; stir in the cheese, and pour into well-greased little tin pans with straight sides ; set these in a pan of hot water and bake in the oven ; when the eggs are firm turn out oh a flat dish, and pour a white sauce over them, Cheese and Bacon.-^An excellent dish and one very much liked for late suppers is made thus : Place in a small double boiler 6 ounces of grated cheese, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a saltspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, a half cup of milk, and 1 beaten egg. Stir over the fire until it is a creamy mass. Mean- while <;ut pieces of bread 2 inches wide and 3 long and toast them. Cover them with a thick layer of cheese mixture, and lay on each piece a slice of hot, crisp bacon. Place in the oven for a moment and the dish is ready to serve. Cheese Dessert. — ^Take as many slices of stale bread as needed 5 melt 1 spoon of butter with 1 of lard in the frying-pan. Beat up 2 eggs and 2 spoons of sugar. Dip bread into sugar and eggs. Fry in hot lard and butter until it is a nice brown. Have as many thin slices of cheese as there are slices of bread. When' the bread is browned put the cheese on it and set in the oven until the cheese is thoroughly warmed. Serve at once with tea or coffee. Cottage Cheese. — Place a panful of milk, which has soured enough to become thick, over a pan of hot water. Let it heat slowly until the whey has separated from the curd. Do not let it boil, or the curd will become tough. Then strain it through a cloth and press out all the whey. Stir into the curd enough butter, cream and salt to make it a little moist and of good flavor. Work it well with, a spoon until it becomes fine grained and consistent. Then mould it /into balls of any size desired. ' Smearkase. — Pour a little boiling water into 1 quart or more of sour milk, stir, and let it stand 1 hour in a warm place, separate from the whey and put on ice ; in the rporning season with salt, pepper and half a cup of cream. Cream Cheese. — Take sour cream, salt it slightly and hang it up in a linen bag to drain until dry, This takes two days or more. Then put in a deep dish, still in the bag, and let it ripen for a week sprinkling it with salt daily. Good fpr luncheon. The art of making entrees really well and serving them in i^lHilimu. ^ perfection is easily acquired, and is certainly fr HP*"" worth learning, as those dishes never fail to J IP meet ^jth hearty appreciation. First, then, see that all the ingredients are of the finest quality, and mix them in exact accordance to the directions given in such case ; then see that the oven is just at the right heat, and let every separate item employed in the serving be made thoroughly hot before using ; send the entree to table as speedily as possible after it is cooked, as every moment it is kept waiting tends to destroy the puffiness which ren- ders it so enjoyable ; and, lastly, never wash the tins in which the en- trees are cooked, but rub them well with a clean, soft cloth. ' Some entrees to be used as side dishes, and others in the nature of desserts. Salmon Sntree. — Put in a clean enameled stew-pan 3 tablespoon- fuls of butter and an equal amount of flour; blend these into a smooth paste; season with salt, pepper, 1 tablespoonful anchovy sauce, and add three-fourths pint of milk. Stir constantly until the mixture boils. Draw the saucepan then on one side of the fire, and add 1 tablespoonful lemon juice, 1 dessert-spoonful minced parsley, the beaten yolks of 4 fresh eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls tomato pulp, and half pound of finely chopped raw salmon-Aveighed after chopping. Wheft thoroughly mixed, stir in, very lightly, the whites of 6 fresh eggs which have been whipped to a stiff froth, with the addition of a pincb of salt. Have ready a properly prepared entr6e tin, and pour in the mixture ; then sprinkle the surface lightly with very fine light-brown bread raspings, scatter bits of fresh butter .on the top, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour, after which ornament the entree top with wee patches of finely minced hot parsley and sifted egg yolk, and serve as quickly as possible, accompanied by some well-made sauce — anchovy, shrimp, maitre d'h6tel, oyster or lobster — in a hot sauceboat. If salmon cannot be had, use any other fine^ fresh fish instead. 849 350 ENTREES. Glilcken Entree. — Melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add the same quantity of flour and one-half cupful of milk ; when hot and smooth, add a pint of bread crumbs, cook a minute, and then add 1 pint of cooked chopped chicken. Separate 3 eggs, beat the yellows, and add to the mixture, taking it from the fire while you do so ; add a tablespoonfiil of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, and then fold in lightly the frothed whites and the 3 eggs. Bake in individual paper or china cases, and serve as soon as taken from the oven. For a family luncheon it may be cooked in a baking-dish. Chicken and Ham Entree.—Mix together butter and flour as directed in salmon entree, then add seasoning of salt, pepper and mace, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, 1 teaspoonful of finely minced onion or eschalot, and three-quarters of a pint of rich, dear, white stock, and stir constantly over a moderate fire uritil the mixture boils ; then ,add^ — off" the fire — 4 fresh egg yolks, half pound, scant, of finely minced cooked chicken, 3 ounces of lean cooked ham, also finely minced, and the whites of 6 fresh eggs seasoned with salt and whipped to a stiff" froth, after which cook and serve as already di- rected, accompanied by rich sauce. Meat Entree. — Prepare a nice, savory mince of any kind of meat, seasoned to taste, and mixed with any gbod sauce, white or brown, according to the meat you have at hand. Now beat the whites of 2 or 3 eggs to a very stiff" froth, with a little salt, a good seasoning of coralline pepper, and, when liked, a spoonful or two of grated Par- jpesan cheese. Pile this on the top of the mince, which should be put into a souffle case, and put it in the oven till of a delicate brown. Sprinkle it with finely chopped chives or parsley, and serve at once. Any sort of meat can be served in this way, but vary the seasoning accordingly. Cheese Entree. — Place over the fire in a saucepan 2 tablespoon-- fuls of butter, and when it is hot add a heaping tablespoonful of flour and stir until smooth. Then add a half cup of i cream or milk and salt and cayenne to taste. Beat light the yolks of 3 eggs, and add them with a cupful of grated cheese. Remove from the firejind put in a cool place. When cold add the whites of the eggs beaten to ei stiff" froth. Pour into a buttered dish and bake about 20 minutes. This, like all souffles, must be taken immediately from the oven to the ENTREES. 351 table. Some cooks add a teaspoonful of dry mustard instead of 1 dish. The preparation can be baked" in small fancy cases, and one served to each person. Entree (Plain). — Heat 2 tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, stir in 2 dessertspoons of flour till smooth, then add 1 tumbler ot milk J heat till starch-like ; put in your pudding dish and stir in the unbeaten yolks of 4 eggs ; then whip the whites as light as possible with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir therein and bake in quick oven. Serve hot, with foaming sauce. Flavor with vanilla. Potato Entree. — Roast 12 good potatoes and rub them through a coarse sieve ; pour a pint of boiling cream, flavored with grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, over the well-beaten yolks of 6 eggs, and mix lightly into this the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and stir it all into the potato ; pour the whole into a buttered and papered souffle dish, and bake. Cauliflower Entree. — ^Trim the vegetable neatly, and blanch it well, then boil it in the usual way until quite tender, after which take it up, drain it thoroughly, and divide it into tiny sprigs or flow- erets; arrange these very lightly in a buttered souffle tin, after seasoning them nicely with salt, pepper and lemon juice ; then pour over a mixture prepared as follows : Entree Mixture — Two tablespoonfuls of flour blended with 2 table- spoonfuls of butter, stir together in a clean granite saucepan over a moderate fire, then add the beaten yolks of 2 fresh eggs, a seasoning of salt and cayenne, and half pint of milk, and continue stirring until the mixture boils ; then draw the pan on one side, stir in lightly 4 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese (equal parts of Parmesan and good American) and the whites of 3 fresh eggs which have been slightly salted and stiffly whipped. Put on the paper band and finish off with fine brown raspings and bits of butter, as directed for salmon. Bake carefully in a well-heated oven, then ornament the top, as quickly as possible, with alternate patches or rings of sifted egg yolk or finely. minced parsley, and serve immediately, accompanied or not, by some well-made cream Bechamel, French white, or maitre d'hdtel sauce in a sauce-boat. Various vegetables may be made into a souffle, such a3 aspara gus, freshly-shelled green peas, very small even-sized Brussels sprouts, or properly prepared artichokes^ cucumbers, vegetable marrows^ 352 ENTREES. French beans, etc., cut up into small, neat pieces, or slices, and pre- pare as above. Even a mixture of vegetables will answer. Ground Kice Entree. — Put into a suitable stewpan 2 ounces of .fine white sugar, 3 ounces of butter, 1 large tablespoOnful of flour, the grated rind of a fresh lemon, 3 ounces of ground rice, three- fourths pint of milk, 4 egg yolks, a pleasant flavoring of vanilla, or some other essence, and stir together over a moderate fire until the mixture boils and forms a nice smooth paste ; then remove the pan from the fire. Stir in 4 tablespoonfuls of cold milk and the whites of 6 eggs properly prepared, and pour the mixture into a souffle tin, or dish, v/hich has previously been got ready, scattering tiny bits of but- ter on the top, and bake in the usual manner. Some dainty sauce, or a compote of fruit may accompany this dish, or not, just according to taste. Note. — Souffles of arrowrootj tapioca, sago, semolina, etc., are all exceedingly nifie when made according to the foregoing instructions. Potato Souffle. — Make from freshly cooked Irish potatoes, or mashed potatoes, warmed up. To six medium-sized mashed potatoes add 1 tablespoonful of melted butter, yolk of 1 egg, 1 gill of cream, 1 teaspoonfiil of salt and a dash of white pepper. Mix smooth and beat light ; into this lightly stir whites of 4 eggs, beaten stifT; put in hot buttered dish, grate cheese over it, brown and serve quickly in the same dish. Souffle-Tin. — If a proper souffle-tin is come-at-able, itis the right thing to use ; and as it forms the lining of a silver souffle-dish, it looks exceedingly pretty on the table. But if something else has to be substituted, use a deep, straight-sided cake-tin, or even a deep pie- dish ; and in every case fix firmly round the tin or the dish which is used a strong paper band, to stand about three inches above the top, so that when the souffle, rises, as it does very considerably, the pre- paration may be kept from running over the sides. When done, if a proper tin has been used, just remove the paper band and slip the tin gently into the silver dish, which has been made thoroughly hot in readiness ; bi^t if a cake-tin or a vpie-dish has been employed, have ready a very hot, neatly-folded napkin, or fancy frill of some kind, and as soon as ever the paper band has-been removed, fix this on and serve the souffle set on a very hot, fancy dish-paper. The excellency of pastry depends quite as much on its being properly baked as it does on the ingredients and ^^^g^^-.. H/>* «" their preparation. If the oven is too cool, ^^#ir~mj|^/!ffc the crust of pies, tarts or patties will fall '^fZ'^'i!f,ij>''' and be heavy ; if, on the contrary, the heat is too great, Ji .iljll '"" it will burn before baking. A small piece of crust * '""I"* may be placed in the oven to test it, or a little flour sprinkled on the bottom of the oven. If it browns readily, the oven is in proper condition ; if it turns black, it is too hot ; if it only colors slightly, it is too slow. When prepared for baking, all pastry should be ice cold, and set in the hottest part of the oven. After the pastry has riset, the heat may be slightly decreased, or the pies covered with a sheet of paper. This latter precaution is especially necessary for large fruit or meat pies. An improvement in pie crust is made by the addition of baking powder, in the proportion of about 1 small teappoonful of baking powder, to a quart of flour. To make pie crust more flaky, brush the paste as often as it is rolled out with the white of an egg, then put on the bits of butter, fold and roll again. - This causes it to rise in flakes, which is the great beauty in puff paste. Pie crust can be kept a week and be perfectly good, if it is put in a tightly covered dish and set on ice in summer and a cool place in winter. In this way a fresh pie can be made every day without trouble. In baking cream, custard or pumpkin pies, it is well to partly bake the under crust before putting in the filling. If stewed fruit is to be used, have it perfectly cold before putting in, otherwise it will soak, and render the under crust heavy. A marble slab rnakes a cool, nice bread-board for pastry. Roll pastry in one direction, from you. Tart pies should always have a heavy edge to the under crust, Lay on a narrow strip of pastry and pinch together with the fingers, or cut the crust larger than the tin and roll the edge over. Ice- water, or very cold water, should be used for mixed pastry. Use as little as possible. The butter or lard used in shortening should be COOK— 23 363 354 PIES AND PASTRY. cold. Cut the shortening into the flour with a knife, and keep the fingers out of the dough as much as possible. Roll the under crust of a pie a little thicker than the upper. Two kinds of crust may be used in making a pie. Divide the dough, which should be of a moderate richness. Leave a little more than half of it for the lower crust. Roll ' in more butter or lard into the smaller half Spread and fold ; roll again. Repeat this, and the result will be a flaky crust to use for the upper part of the pie. To dot the butter over the crust is better than to spread it evenly. One-third cornmeal added to pje crust make§ it lighter and more digestible. Biscuit pie crust is wholesome. Apples used for mince- pie need not be peeled. Wash, dry and chop fine. Dried apples, soaked over night and chopped fine, may be substituted for the fresh fruit in mince-meat. Dried fruit, prepared with sugar, such as dried cherries, gooseberries, etc., may be substituted instead of raisins in mince pies. Soak over night in as little water as possible and throw in both water and fruit. This will be found very nice as well as eco- nomical. White potatoes, chopped fine and soaked over night in vinegar, are sometimes used as a substitute for apples in mince-meat. Fruit pies take less sugar if they are sweetened after baking. Re- move the upper crust and put in the sugar. Wild grapes may be pre- served for winter use by putting in a jar and covering with molasses. These will be found very nice for pies. Apples cut in quarters and stewed in sweet cider or molasses are good for plain piej. Season with cinnamon or nutmeg. This will keep in excellent conditipafor several months, Punipkins that have commenced to decay may be preserved by cutting up the best parts, stewing until soft, sweetening well with sugkr and molasses and seasoning with ginger. Scald in the season- ing thoroughly. Keep in a stone jar in a cool place. When wanted for use thin the desired amount with milk and eggs. Never grease a pie plate, but sift a thin layer of flour over; there will be fat enough from the paste to slip the pie from the plate ; plates will keep sweet longer. Sift a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar over the top of two- crust pies before baking and see how delicious it makes them. If the top of a pie is brushed over with an egg, it gives it a very orna- mental gloss. To prevent the juice of pies from running over, thrust little funnels of white paper into thejcuts on top, through which the PIES AND PASTRY. 355 steam may escape and the juice boil up, and then run back into the pie again when it stops cooking. / Again, fruit pies can have a narrow band of muslin around the pie, covering the edge. This keeps in the j uice and prevents the besmeared appearance which fruit pies are apt to have. Or, put the usual amount of sugar in a bowl, add enough cold water to make a sort of dough, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, or a teaspoonful of cornstarch, mix thoroughly. Pour this over the fruit. Put on the top crust and bake. To Make a Pie. Roll out the crust to fit the pie-plate. Press it neatly in shape, and then cut off the edges evenly. Take some more of the paste and the fragments left from trimming off the under crust, and roll out for the upper crust. Fold this together, and cut 3 or 4 half-inch slits about one-quarter inch from middle. This permits the escape of steam without injuring the shape of the pic. Now fill the pie-plate with the prepared filling. Wet the top edge of the rim. Lay the upper crust across the centre of the pie, turn back the folded-over side, fasten the two edges by pressing with the thumb, and cut off the paste even with the tin. Run a pastry wheel around the edge, or simply notch with a fork, or leave plain. Bake a light brown and until the filling boils up through the openings. Wet the under crust with the white of an egg to prevent fruit juices, or soft fillings, from soaking the under crust. Plain Pie Crust. — Cut 1 cup (half a pound) of butter into 3 cups of flour ; add 1 teaspoonful of salt and sufiicient ice-water to moisten and roll. A small teaspoonful of baking powder is an addition ; half teaspoonful salt. The secret of making good pastry is to touch it as little as possible with the hand. To, make the pies nicer, one-quarter of the sliortening may be left out, and the pastry for the upper crust can be rolled flat, dotted with butter and lard ; sprinkle with flour, fold together and roll again, repeating this operation until the shortening is used. Thisi will give a flaky upper crust. Threfe-fourths of cup of shortening can be used with the baking powder. Some cooks prefer lard to butter, as making a whiter crust. Extra Mince-Meat. — Two pounds raw beef, chopped fine ; 2 pounds suet, minced fine ; 4 pounds tart apples, chopped; 2 pounds currants ; 2 pounds raisins; 2 pounds citron, sliced fine; 2 pounds brown S56 PIES AND PASTRY. sugar; 1 quart New Orleans molasses; 4 tablespoonfuls salt; 1}4 lablespoonfuls mixed spices, cinnamon, cloves and allspice; half ounce wfhite pepper; 2 grated nutmpgs; juice of 2 lemons ; 1 quart cider; 1 quart of brandy, or fruit juice. Mix first meat, which be sure is not cooked, with salt, suet and spices ; then apple, fruit; next lemons, then sugar. Should be mad^ several weeks before using. Mock Mince Pie. — Four crackers, rolled ; 2 eggs, half cupful chopped raisins, half cupful raisins, half cupful vinegar, 1 cupful hot water, one-quarter cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 1 cupful molasses, 1 teaspoon'ful each of all kinds of spices, 1 teaspoonfiil salt. This makes 3 pies. Glazing Pastry; — ^To glaze or ice pastry, which is the usual method for fruit tarts, etc., beat the white of an egg to a froth. When the crust is nearly baked brush if over with this, and sift granulated sugar over it. Put back in the oven to glaze for a few minutes, being careful that the glaze does not burn. Puff Paste. — One pound of flour, three-fourths pound of butter, the yolk of i egg ; chop half of the butter in the flour, then add the beaten yolk, and as much ice water as is needed to work all into a dough ; roll out thin, and spread on some of the butter, fold closely, buttered side in, and reroll ; repeat until the butter is all used up ; keep in a cool place until you wish to use it I>mon Meringue Pie. — Yolks of 3 eggs, creamed, with 1 cupful sugar ; add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs. Beat the whole until light. ^ Add 3 lemons' juice and grated rind, 1 tablespoonful butter. Stand the bowl in a basin of boiling water over the fire and stir until the mixture thicken^ ; set away to cool. Line a pie-dish with good paste and bake ; then pour in the lemon mixture. Beat the "remain- ing white of egg with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar; put this meringue over top of the pie and set in oven until a golden brown. Frosting. — Beat whites of 2 eggs stiff, then boil 1 cup of sugar in a little water till it strings from fork, then pour on the whites and stir fast; then spread on pie with a knife which has been wet in cold water ; then set in oven a couple of minutes to set the frosting. PIES AND PASTRY. 357 Lemon Molasses Pie. — Take 1 lemon (if small, 2), pare and boil the peel and then chop, with 1 cup of raisins; then add 1 cup of sugar, either white or brown ; one-half cup of molasses, 1 tablespoon of flour stirred thin in cold water ; a small piece of butter, and 1 cup of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons and mix all together. These are to be baked with two crusts. Sliced liemon Pie. — Line the pie-plate with rich crust, put in 1 cup of sugar. Slice a large lemon, after peeling very thin, taking out the seeds. Put on the upper crust, pressing very tightly ; bake slowly 1 hour. The lemon and sugar form a delightful tart jelly. Lemon Pie Without Eggs. — This is gOod and convenient to have ; juice and grated rind of 2 lemons, 4 pounded crackers, 2 cups of water, 1 ^^ cups of sugar ; 2 pies. ' Orange Pie.-^Prepare 1 cup of orange juice and pulp, and the grated rind of half an orange. Cream 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 1 cup of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, well beaten, and the orange. Soak 2 tablespoonfuls of cracker crumbs in half a cup of milk, and add them to the orange and egg mixture. Bake in one Crust and cover with a ifte- ringue of the whites of the eggs beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Apple Pie. — Pare and core tart ripe apples. Slice thin. Fill the under crust. Add a small teacupful of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of water. Dredge the top well with flour. Dot over with bits of butter ; flavor with cinnamon or nutmeg. Add the upper crust Bake about 40 minutes. If the apples are not tart enough, add the lemon juice. A nice apple sauce may be used in pie shells. See above. Sweet cream may be served with apple pies. Bake a nice apple pie ; cut it hot, and pour cream over it. Serve immediately. Delicious. , Winter Apple Pie. — Chop half a dozen large apples quite fine : mix them with the juice of a lemon and a little grated rind, 1 cup of chepped currants and raisins, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of butter ; cut in sniall pieces. Mix all together, lay in a pie-plate lined with paste, coyer and bake. Nutmeg Grater. 368 PIES AND PASTRY. Apple Meringue Pie. — ^Line a pie-plate with nice crust. Fill with stewed apples, sweetened and flavored. Bake in a moderate oven until the paste is a light brown. Allow the whites of 2 eggs for each pie, beat tfiem stiff and add 1 tablespoonful of sugar and a little extract of vanilla. When the pies are bajced, spread the meringjie ' over them, and return to the oven a few minutes. Pork Apple Pie. — Line the pie-plate with good crust ; slice in a layer of apples ; cut bits of salt pork over them ; dust on a little cinna- mon ; repeat this once more. Cover the whole with three-fourths cupful sugar. Put on the top crust, and bake slowly about 1 hour. Some cooks use 4 tablespoonfuls of molasses to sweeten this pie instead of sugar. ~^ Custard Pie, Plata. — Heat 1 pint of milk, boiling hot, mix to- gether 2 tablespoonfuls flour, half cupful sugar, 2 eggs. Stir into the boiling milk and cook 10 minutes, taking care not to burn. Take from the stove. Flavor to suit. Pour it into the crust, which should have been already baked. Leave out white of 1 egg, if wished^ and whip to a froth with a spoonful of sugar, and spread it over the top of the pie as soon as it is cool. Place in the oven to harden. Harlequin Cream Pie.— Cover a pie tin with pastry. Put a layer of bright-colored jelly (currant is best) in the bottom ; fill up with mock cream filling (see recipe) ; afterwards cover with a meringue or frosting. This pie is delicious, and when cut is ornamental in ap- pearance. ElggXess Pumpkin, Pie. — Peel and cut the pumpkin in small gieces ; stew until tender, in very little water, or steam until done, and mash. Have the pulp as dry as possible. Beat smooth or rub through a colander. Turn 1}4 pints of boiling milk, upon 1 quart of the sifted pumpkin. Sweeten with two-thirds of a cup of molasses and half cupful sugar, half teaspoonful salt ; spice or not to suit the taste. A teaspoonful each of cinnamon and ginger is a good flavor- ing. The boiling milk causes the pumpkin to swell in baking, so that it is as light as if eggs had been used. Custard Pumpkin Pie. — ^To every quart of cooked and strained pumpkin (prepared according to directions above given) add 1 quart of milk and 3 eggs. One teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little of the milk will make the pie cut more solid. Sweeten to taste with brown sugar, or sugar and molasses half and hal£ If the. milk PIES AND PASTRY. 359 is not very rich, add 1 teaspoonful melted butter to this rule. Season with cinnamon and nutmeg to taste, or ginger and cinnamon. Mo- lasses helps give the pie a rich- color. The rim of a pumpkin pie is apt to scorch before the filling is done. On this account to heat the pumpkin scalding hot before putting in the pie tins is a good plan. Glaze the pie-crust before doing this way, and bake immediately that the crust may not grow sodden. Plain Pumpkin Pie. — One quart of sifted pumpkin, 2 table- spoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart of milk, 1 egg ; sweeten and flavor ac- cording to any of the before-given rules ; rub the cornstarch smooth in a little of the milk. Bake in one crust. Very good. Squash Pie. — Cut the squash in pieces and steam till done ; beat smooth or rub through' a colander. Hubbard squash is best. To 1 quart of sifted squash add 1 quart of milk, 4 eggs well beaten, 1 cupful sugar,,! tablespoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon, mace and ginger, 1 teaspoonful salt, level. This will make two large pies. Raise the edges of the pastry a little to prevent overflow. Meringue Squasb Pie. — Prepare squash as above. Take 2 cup- fuls squash, 1 cupful of sweet milk, 1 ciipful Of sugar," the yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, a pinth of salt, half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and one-third teaspoonful of ginger. Mix all the ingredients thor- oughly, line a pan with paste and fill it. Bake until done. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff" froth, add half cupful of sugar, spread it over the pies, and leave them in oven until meringue is a rich brown. Chocolate Pie. — Half cupful sugar, 1 cupful milk, 1 teaspoonful butter, scald together; add 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, yolks of 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls cornstarch, dissolved in a little cold milk. Stir into the hot milk and sugar until thick and smooth. Flavor with half teaspoonful vanilla. Line a pie-plate with a rich crust and bake. Fill this shell with the mixture. Make a meringue of the whipped whites of the eggs sweetened. Put in the oven to set. Or, whip one-quarter cup of sweet cream to a froth and spread over the choco- late mixture. Cranberry Meringue Pie.— To make cranberry pie with eggs : Take 1 coffeecupful of finely chopped cranberries and a cup of sugar beaten with 1 whole egg and the yolks of 2 eggs. Mix them thor- oughly, and turn into a plate lined with pie crust, and bake in a mod- erate oven. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and add 2 360 PIES AND PASTRY. tkblespoonfuls of sugar. When the pie is baked, spread the meringue roughly over the top and return to the oven for a few moments to brown lightly. Cranberry Molasses Pie. — ^To 1 quart chopped cranberries add 2 cups of sugar and half cup of molasses, 1 cup of boilipg watejr, 2 tablespoons of cornstarch ; mix thoroughly, and cook until about as thick as raspberry jam ; when cool, fill pie-plate lined with rich crust; put narrow strips of crust across the top and bake. Crooseberry Tart Pie. — Line a pie-dish with a rich crust, place inside the dish a quart of picked gooseberries and plenty of sugar, add a little water. Have a heavy rim to the pie-crust, and leave the pie open, or finish with cross-bars of paste over the top. Peach Merlugrue Pie. — Line a deep earthen pie-plate with a- rich pie-crust that has been rolled thin. Peel and slice enough peaches to fill the plate very full, and sift sugar over them. Crack half a ■-dozen of the peadi stones and take out the meat, blanch, chop fine and scatter among the fruit. Bake in moderate oven. For the meringue, use the white of 2 eggs, beaten into a stiff froth, and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Spread over the peaches and return to the oven and brown lightly. Delicious. Mering^ue for Puddings or Pies. — Beat the whites of 3 eggs to "a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, dried and sifted, and the juice of half a small lemon. Spread this meringue over the pie, dredge it liberally with powdered sugar, and put it in a moderately hot oven. At the end of 10 minutes it should be a light, even brown all over. If it browns more rapidly, the oven is too hot, and nothing is so disastrous to the success of a meringue as a too-hot oven. A properly baked meringue rises slowly^and evenly, and does not brown until it has risen, nor does it fall flat when taken from oven. Peach Pie. — Peel, stone and slice the peaches. Line the pie-plate, with crust, and lay in the fruit, sprinkling sugar over liberally in proportion to their sweetness. Allow 3 peach kernels, chopped fifte, to each pie. Pour in a very little water. Bake with an upper, crust, or with cross-bars of paste across. A variation of this is to peel, halve and stone medium-sized peaches. Fill a deep pie-plate with them, heaping them towards the centre of the dish and sprinkling them liberally with sugar. Cover with a top crust and bake, Eal while warm. PIES AND PASTRY. 361 Peach Custard Pie. — Use 1 crust ; peel peaches and halve them, and turn the hollow side upward ; sweeten as you would a peach pie ; take 1 egg, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonful of sugar ; beat ; add milk enough to cover the peaches; bake. Eat when partly cold. Canned peach'bs will answer as well as fresh, Merin^rue Strawberry Pie. — Make a very rich pie crust and cut it round as a dinner plate; bake it light brown in a quick oven; the minute it is done cover it with strawberries rolled in sugar ; over the berries spread a meringue made of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, with 3 tablespoons of sugar ; put back in oven and bake a golden brown. It is delicious served hot or cold. Instead of the meringue, whip half cupful sweet cream and heap ovfer the top. Ripe Tomato Pie. — Line a pie-plate with a nice crust. Peel and slice sufficient tomatoes (half ripe ones are really better) to fill the pie. Sprinkle over the top half a cupful of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of flour, butter the size of a walnut, cut this in bits, and flavor with lemon. Cover with an upper crust. Green Tomato Pie. — Line a pie tin with rich pie crust and sprin- kle over the bottom 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger or cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful of butter, and two-thirds cupful of sugar. Fill with green tomatoes sliced thin. Pour over all half a cupful of vinegar, and bake with a top crust. Apricot Pies, Dried. — Soak 1 cup of dried apricots over night ; in the morning-cool the apricots, and sweeten as for sauce ; let it cool. Bake with 2 crusts ; have the pie quite moist. This makes one medium-sized pie. A tart pie can be made by using an under crust and putting cross bars of pastry over the top of the pie. Clierry Pie. — Line a deep pie-dish with plain paste, and brush the latter over with white of egg» to prevent soaking. Fill the dish nearly full of pitted cherries, and over them spread evenly from a half to a whole cupful of sugar, according to the size of the dish and the acidity of the fruit. Cover carefully after dredging with flour. Tarts and Cheese Oakes. Tart Shells. — Line small tins or patty pans with nice pie or puff paste. Prick two or three times with a fork to prevent blistering. Glaze according to recipe; sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake and put away. Ends of paste left from pie-making may be used in 36^ PIES And pastry. this fashion. They are always convenient to have on Hand for an emergency, since filling with jelly or preserved fruit makes a daftltiy ' iish for unexpected guests. Tart Paste. — One cupful butter, 1 tablespoonful white sugar, 1 white of an egg, 3 tablespoonfuls water, flour to roll out. They may be baked in gem pans. The shells will keep quite a while in a close tin box. They may be heated for a moment in the oven. Chocolate Tarts.— Line patty tins with puff paste and bake, then fill with the following mixture : One~pint of boiling milk, the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 tablespoon cold water, 10 ounces of grated chocolate, 1 ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of but; ter. Cook until it thickens, then cool. Cocoauut Tarts. — Dissolve half a pound of sugar in half a pint of water; add a pound of grated cocoanut, and stir over the fire for 5 minutes. Let cool. Add the beaten yolk and the white of 1 egg. Line little tart pans with puff paste ; fill with the mixture and bake. Berry Tarts. — Line small patty pans with rich crUst and filling with raspberries, blackberries, whortleberries, or other berries, Heap" up high in the centre ; sprinkle freely with powdered sugar ; wet the edges of the paste with ice water; lay on a thin crust of light puff paste; press the edges together, and with a sharp knife trim off evenly ; press around the base of the fruit about a fourth of an inch from the edge of the pan, so as to push the fruit up in a cone in the centre, when the juice will run afound the groove formed by pressing. Brush crust of each tart over with ice water and bake in quick oven. Strawberry Tarts.-^Line little tart-pans with delicate puff paste, fill with strawberry jam, sprinkle the tops with sugar and bake in a very quick oven. Let cool and pile whipped cream over the top. Arrange on a large, flat dish and set on the luncheon or tea table. Cranberry Tartlets. — Line patty pans with paste, fill with cran-_ berry sauce and bake. When done, spread over the top a meringue formed by beating the white bf 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of pulverized sugar and return to the oven to^brown. Apple Tarts. — Line patty pans with nice pastry. Bake ; fill with sifted, sweetened apple sauce. Dust powdered sugar over the top or heap them with whipped cream. Grandmother's Apple Tarts.— Line round patties with rich paste. In each place the half of a peeled, tart apple, drop a tea- PIES AND PASTRY. 36 spoonful of, cream, a bit of butter and as much sugar as it will hoi in the centre. Grate nutmeg over and bake in a quick oven until th apples are done. Whipped Cream Tarts. — Sweeten and flavor the cream. Put i: puff paste tart shells with a dot of currant jelly on each. Baisln Tarts. — ^Take pie crust and cut out with scalloped cutter use two crusts to each tart. For filling,, 1 cupful chopped raisin: half cup of sugar. Green Gage Tartlets. — Choose fine and sound, but not overrip( gages, and take out the stones without entirely dividing the fruit ; le them simmer in syrup for about 5 minutes and let cool. Make som good short pastry, roll it out very thinly, stamp it into rounds with fluted cutter which is half an inch larger in diameter than the tartle moulds ; then line the moulds with the rounds. Drain the gages, se them closely together in the moulds, and bake in a well-heated over When baked, brush the edges of the pastry with syrup, and let thet dry in the oven for a minute. Boil the syrup in which the gage were cooked till it is thick. When cold pour a little into each tartlt and serve. Delicious. Maids of Honor. — One cupful of sour milk, 1 cupful sweet mill 1 tablespoonful melted butter, yolks of 4 eggs, juice and rind of lemon, and 1 small cupful of white sugar. Put both kinds of milk i a double boiler, or in one dish, set in another of boiling water and Ic become sufficiently heated to set the curd. Strain off the milk, ru the curd through a colander, stir the curd, butter, sugar, beaten egg and lemon all together. Line patty pans with rich paste, and fill wit the mixture. Bake until firm in the centre, which will take from 1' to 15 minutes. Gheese Cakes. — ^Take 1 cup of curd, made by straining loppere milk through a cheese-cloth, having first brought the milk to blooi heat; mix with a tablespoonful of butter, half a cupful of sugar, th yolks of 2 eggs and a cupful of sweet cream. Mix over the fire unti it thickens up, then flavor with lemon or rose, and when cool fil little pans lined with rich pastry, as for tarts. Cocoanut Cheese Cakes. — Make as above, with the addition of small cupful of desiciSSted cocoanut in the filling. Make cake by a reliable recipe and follow it closely. Sift the flour before mea- suring, again with the baking powder, and the same with cream of tartar. In measur- ing a half spoon, fill level full, smoothing off with a knife; then lengthwise, so as to have it exact. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, and add yolks of eggs, beating thoroughly. Beat the egg whites separately, adding after all -the flour is stirred in. Fruit, for all nice cakes, should be picked, washed and dried, the day before making. Dust with flour before using, and mix with the hand till each is powdered, so that they will mix evenly through the dough. Any ^^^ or nuts not floured will sink to tiie Bottom. The recipe usually gives the time, if long beating is required. Some plain tea-cakes and gingerbread can be made quickly. Line pans with buttered paper; several thick- nesses for large cakes. The oven should be just right for the parti- cular kind of cake you are baking. Layer cakes, sponge, and most small cakes need a quick oven. Rich cakes must bake slowly. Always test the oven. If the hand can bear the! heat 20 or 25 seconds, it is in good order. Layer cakes take 20 minutes each tff bake. Loaf cakes from an hour and a quarter to three hours, accord- ing to size and kind. To measure accurately a teaspoonful of dry material, take up a heaping spoonful of sifted material and shake it lightly until it is rounded above the surface enough to correspond exactly with the concave surface. An even or scant teaspoonful means a spoon filled lightly, and leveled with a knife to the surface of the spoon, while a heaping spoonful means all the spoon will hold of any sifted material. In using solids, especially butter or lard, a knife should be employed to deftly even off 'the superfluous amount. An "even" cupful of any thing means a cup full to the brim, so full that only the steadiest hand can carry it without spilling. A " brim- ming" cupful, as its name indicates, is a cup running over. A scant cupful lacks a quarter or half inch of reaching the top of the measure, while a solid cupful is something packed as firmly as possible. 364 CAKES. 365 Do not measure the butter loosely, but pack it in solid, and have exact measure ; unless the rule calls for a heaping cup of flour or sugar, take a knife and draw across the top of the cup, leaving it level full. A tablespoonful of melted butter means a tablespoonful of butter after melting, while a tablespoonful of bujter melted, means a tablespoonful measured before melting. Sugar, salt, flour, soda, spices, and mustard, should always be ^fted or stirred up lightly before measuring, as when packed they are compressed to much-less than their rightful bulk. Grease the cake tins with fresh lard (for cake made with butter — with butter if for sponge cake) ; dredge over a little flour, and then fihake off all that will come off It is only rich cakes that require the tins in which they are baked to be lined with buttered paper. Be careful not only to butter the paper to prevent it from adhering to the cake, but also to butter the tin to prevent the paper from sticking to ' it. An earthen basin is best for beating eggs or cake mixture. Cake should be beaten with a wooden spoon. A wooden spoon is about the best, as the handle will not bend like a metal one. It takes a great deal of strength for the final beating, but unless it is given the texture of the cake will be coarse. All loaf cakes should be baked in square -tins rather than round, and the mixture should not reach the top by about three -fourths of an inch, to allow for raising. The temperature of the oven is a very important factor. It should not be too hot at first, or the outside will bake so much sooner than the inside, as to spoil the cake. Neither should it be too cold, or the cake will fall at once. If water dropped on the bottom hisses, it is hot enough for baking. If the cake shows a ten- dency to brown too quickly on the top, cover it with a sheet of brown paper; if, on the contrary, the bottom cooks too rapidly, set the oven grate beneath it. Have the fire steady, and do not shake the stove or open the oven any oftener than is neces- sary. If sponge cake is mixed with cold water it will be yellow, but if boiling hot water be used for mixing, the cake will be white. At any time when^J Siogar Box. the cook requires the white of an egg and not the yolk, break, the shell carefully and drop the untouched yolk into a cup of cojd water. Here it will keep for several days if necessary, to be used when re- quired. To make whites of eggs beat quickly, put in a small pinch see CAKES. of salt. When making; cake in warm weather, place the eggs in cold water a few minutes before you beat them. This simple hint causes eggs to froth well on the hottest day. The only secret of good cake is fine-grained sugar, and a thorough mixing of ingredients. With sour milk or molasses use soda instead of baking powder, -In cooking it is well to remember that soda should never be dissolved in hot water, because if it is some of the gases would then be liberated and wasted, and a greater amount of soda would be needed to makie good this waste than if the soda were dissolved in cold Water, Gakes calling for milk can: be made with the same amount of water, with better success. The cake will be lighter and more spongy. If the molasses and butter to be used in gingerbread be heated together to almost the boiling point, before being stirred in with the other ingredients, the cake will be improved. Heat the knife before cutting warm bread or cake. To test nutmegs, prick with a pin, and if they are good the oil will instantly spread around the puncture. If desired to ice a logf cake, it is better to leave it till the next day, and then apply to the bottom instead of the top. When a cake tin is linedwith'paper,itis well to know how t& re- move the paper from the cake, when cooked, without damaging its appearance. Turn the cake from the tin on to a sieve, and when it has partly cooled turn the cake bottom upwards, and brush the paper with chilled water till it is thoroughly-damp, when the paper can easily be peeled off. If, after a cake has been baked, it persists in . sticking to the bottom of the pan, don't despair. Merely turn the pan upside down and press close to it a very wet cloth. This will bring the cake out in a hurry. A dish of water placed in a hot oven where, pies, cakes or puddings are being baked, will prevent them- from scorching. Shake and jar a tin after the cake batter is in. This expels the bubbles of air, and lessens the danger of falling. A cake pan with a tube bakes a large loaf of cake more uniformly. Cake tins should be gently warmed in cold weather before the cake batter is put in. Yolks of eggs, when not used in cakes, may be utilized in various ways, such as salad dressings, and also in gold cake. Butter that is too salt should be washed in cold water two or three times before using it in cake. Cake materials should be gotten together in cold weather some time before they are to be used, and kept in a warm place that they may be jnixcd mor^ easily. CAKES. 367 Substitute for Brandy. — ^As a substitute for brandy or wine in dark fruit cake, the same amount of clear, very strong coffee or boiled sweet cider can be used. Coffee is really preferable. The same amount of rosewater, or lemon juice, or 1 or 2 extra egg yolks will take the place of wine. Testing' the Cake. — Most cooks test a cake with' a broom splint j put it in quickly, and if it comes out dry and cleah the cake is done. If cleanliness is desirable, however, it might be suggested that a very good plan is to keep a knitting needle in the kitchen-table drawer for testing cakes. A surer way of testing cake in the oven is to draw it to the edge of the oven, and put the ear close to it, and when it is not sufficiently baked a slight sputtering noise will be heard, but when thoroughly done there will be no sound. To Sweeten Butter. — If you have butter that is not entirely sweet, put it in a porcelain dish, with a little salt and a tiny piece of soda^place over a fire and bring to a boil. Turn it into a stone jar and set it in a cool place. The butter will be found perfectly sweet and not too salt for cooking. The impurities will settle in the bottom of the jar. '~ To Keep Fruit Cake Fresh.. — The secret of keeping any fruit cake fresh and nice for over a year is to wrap the loaves in a well- buttered white paper, and tie them up, and place in a stone jar and cover. Once in a whileit is a good plan to open the jar and leave un- covered for 5 or 10 minutfes. Fruit cake, if it is to be kept any length of time before eating— and a good fruit cake is always improved by so doing — should be iced as it is needed. A couple of apples or a slice of moist bread put in cake-box will keep cake from- getting dry. Fruits for Oakes. A very good way to stone raisins is to have a glass of cold water beside one. Dip the fingers into it, and the seed will easily drop off from them. Or, have ■ a dish of flour near at hand and dip the fingers into it often. It will prevent the seeds from sticking to one's fingers. To make raisins stone more easily, take them from the stems, put in a bowl, pour boiling water over, let stand 2 or 3 minutes and drain. The raisins -will then seed very readily. Raisins for cake may be boiled half an hour in a little water, dried in the oven. This will prevent their being tough and tearing the cake in cuttift]). 368 CAKES. Watermelon Rinds make an excellent substitute for citron. Cook rich and thick with plenty of sugar ^and can. When ready to use take out a little, dry in oven and add to dake, pudding or pie. Dates are usually less expensive than raisins, but housekeepers seem seldom to appreciate their value as a substitute for the latter. A box of dates, if put in a cool, dry place, will keep well, and assist greatly in varying the list of cakes, puddings, and the like. Even a single pound of the article will give its rich, distinctive flavor to several com- pounds that, were raisins used, would be comparatively commonplace. ' Almonds' to Blanch. — Turn boiling water over them. Let stand a few minutes, then drain aind plunge in cold water. The skins will then come off easily. If not, repeat the operation. Rub the skins off with a dry cloth. Put on a paper in the open oven to dry. If they are to be rubbed to a paste, rub them in a mortar with a little rosewater to prevent oiling, a little loaf sugar, 1 lump to 3 or 4 almonds may be used for the same purpose. Lemons may be kept fresh by putting in a jar of cold water. Change the water frequently. Home-made Flavoring Extracts. The cdWimon essence of orange, lemon and vanilla of superior quality can be easily and inexpensively made. It is best to make a year's supply at once. Orajige essences should be prepared when the sweet, red-skinned Valencia orange is abundant. Take the outer red orange skin of this fruit and scrape off any of the ihner white skin that may adhere. Cut the orange skin into strips. Put it in a quart bottle and cover it with common good alcohol, or what is known to chemists as " 90 per cent, alcohol." Fill up the bottle with peel and alcohol, as convenient, till it isfuU, and cork it tightly.' Put the bottles thus filled on a high shelf in the kitchen, or in some equally warm place, for at least six months — that is, let it alone. At the end of this time strain off a tablespoonful or more, flavor as it is needed. It will be better at the end of a year, and will keep indefinitely. Make lemon extract, in exactly the same way, from the peel of the thin-skinned Messina lemons. The thick-skinned Malaga lemons are of no use for this purpose. Never use the juice of the lemon or orange in these essences. Another way is to grate off the yellow part or "zest," and put this in a glass ean or bottle and cover with alcohol. Let stand a couple of weeks and then strain. A fine ex- CAKES, 869 tract is aecured in this way. A word as to proportions — ^for the skin of 10 oranges, carefully grated, a quart of alcohol will be needed. Be /ery careful that only the yellow part of the rind is grated off, as the inner skin is worse than useless. If necessary add half ounce of oil of orange or lemon, as the case may be. The best vanilla essence is made of the genuine vanilla bean, a costly article, and therefore the tonka bean is frequently substituted for it. From half to three-quarters of a pound of beans should be cut in fine pieces and put in a quart bottle of alcohol of the 90 per cent, quality for essence. This bottle should be left from seven months to a year before its contents are ready for use. Or half pint of alcohol and 4 vanilla beans broken in bits. Let stand a week or so. Table of Proportions. One teaspoonful soda to 1 cupful molasses; 1 teaspoonful soda to 1 pint sour milk; 3 teaspoonfuls baking-powder to 1 quart flour; one-half cupful yeast or one- quarter cake compressed yeast to 1 pint liquid; 1 teaspoonful extract to 1 loaf plain cake ; 1 tea- spoonful salt to 2 quarts flour; 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart soup; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for bread ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 2 full cupfuls of flour for muffins ; 1 scant cupful of liquid to 1 full cupful of flour for bat- ters ; 1 quart water to each pound meat and bone for soup stock ; 4 peppercorns, 4 cloves, 1 tea- spoonful of mixed herbs for each quart of water for soup^ stock. Time Table for Baking, Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes; bread, brick < loaf, 40 to 60 minutes ; cake, plain, 20 to 40 minutes; cake, sponge, 45 to 60 minutes; chickens, 3 to 4 pounds, 1 to 1 ^ hours ; cookies, 10 to 15 minutes; gingerbread, 20 to 30 minutes; Graham gems, 30 minutes; pudding, bread, rice and tapioca, 1 hour; pudding, plum, 2 to 3 hours ; rolls, 10 to 15 minutes. COOK— 24 Measuring' Ct-lass. Graduated Measura 370 CAKES. Tables of Weights and Measures. Sixty drops of any thin liquid are equal to i teaspoonful, or t drachm. Two teaspoonfuls to i dessertspoon- ful. Four teaspoonfuls of liquid equal I tablespoonful. Four.tablespooilfuls of liquid equal one-half gill. , Four tablespoonfuls of liquid equal 1 wineglassful. One tablespoonful of liquid equals oae-half ounce. Four eyen teaspoonfuls liquid equal I even tablespoonful. A medium-sized teaspoon contains about a drachm. Sixteen tablespoonfuls liquid equal I cupful. ., y^- . ■ One pint of liquid equals i pound. Two gills of liquid equal one-half^int. One kitchen cupful equals oile-half pint. Three even teaspoonfuls dry material equal 1- even tablespoonful. Twelve tablespoonfuls dry material equal i cupful. Two cupfiils equal i pint. Four cupfuls equal i quart , Four cupfuls flour equal i quart or i pound. Two cupfuls solid butter equal i pound. Two cupfuls granulated sugar equal I pound. Two and a half cupfuls powdered sugar equal i pound. One pint milk or water equals i pound. , ■ One dozen eggs should weigh i}4 pounds. One quart of sifted flour eqiials I pound. Four cupfuls of flour equal i pound. One tablespoonful of flour equals 6ne-half ounce. Three cupfuls of commeal equal i pound. One and one-half pints of commeal equal one pound. - ; One cupful of butter equals one-half , pound. , One tablespoonful of butter equals i aunce. One pint of butter equals i pound. One pint of chopped suet equals I pound. Ten eggs equal i pound. One pmt of gifanulated sugar equals 1 pound. One pint of brown sugar equals ij ounces. Two and one-half cupfuls of pow- dered sugar equal i pound. Sixteen drams equal i ounce. SixteeH ounces equal i pound. Butter size of an egg, 2 ounces. ■ One kitchen cup, half pint. One pound loaf sugar (broken) to i quart. Twelve small eggs without the shells weigh I pound. Ten medium eggs without the shells weigh I pound. Nine large eggs without the shells weigh I pound. An ordinary egg weighs from iX ^ 2 ounces. A duck?s egg weighs from 2 to 3 ounces. A turkey's egg weighs from three to four ounces. A goose egg weighs from 4 to 6 ounces. Two ounces unmelted butter equal in, size an ordinary egg. Two tablespoons liquid weigh i ounce. Two heaping tablespoons powdered sugar weigh i ounce. . Two heaping tablespoons granulated sugar weigh i ounce. Two rounded tablespoons, of flour weigh I ounce. Sugar, flour, butter, lard, drippings, currants, raisins, rice and cornstarch are measured by the roufidmg spoonful. Salt, pepper and spices by the level spoonful. - Skim milk is heavier than whole milk and cream -is lighter than either, while pure milk is 3 per cent, heavier than water. Spices.^-t-wo saltspoonfuls make t afl;er-dinner coffeespoon ; 2 cofFeespoon« fuls maJke i teaspoonful ; a dash of pep ^r equals quarter saltspoonfiiL CAKES. 371 Frostings. Flour lightly dfedged over a loaf of cake before icing it prevents the spreading and running off of the latter. Cake should be nearly^ if not quite cold, before attempting to frost it. One teaspoonfiii o^ lemon juice will help keep frosting from crumbling. A teaspoonful of cream also has a softening effect. To tint frosting, lemon juice will whiten it, the grated rind of an orange strained through a cloth will give it a yellow tint, and strawberry or cranberry juice will pro- duce a pretty shade of pink. Heavy frosting is secured by letting one coating dry and then applying another. Ornamental Frosting can be done by drawing one of the small glass syringes full of the icing and arrange it in any design you like. Another way is to fill a cone of thick white paper and let the icing run through, but it is not as successful as the other way. Firsty give the cake a coating of stiff frosting. Smooth the top carefully and set in the oven for a few minutes. For the ornamental figures beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, and stir in powdered sugar until quite stiff, but not so stiff as the first frosting. Cut out designs in paper and outline them on the top of the cake by pricking the frost- ing with a large needle. If the design is elaborate make three cornu- copias of writing paper, cut off the small ends, leaving room to press the frosting through. Graduate the size of the three apertures. Fill the three cornucopias with the frosting, fold the paper over the top and use the thumbs to press the frosting through the lower opening. If it does not keep its shape, the frosting is not thick enough, and more sugar must be added. Use the cornucopia with the largest opening for the largest part of the pattern. Cocliineal Goloringr. — One drachm of cream tartar, 1 drachm saleratus, 1 drachm of alum, 1 drachm cochineal. Mix in two-thirds of a cup ofxboiling water. Bottle and cork for use. Make the wished-for shade by using more or less of the preparation. A por- tion of the cake batter may be colored to suit and arranged in alter- nate layers. Red sugar may also be used for this purpose. Frosting. — Beat the white of 1 egg till it is very dry, then add gradually 10 ounces of pulverized white sugar. Dredge flour ovei the top of the cake and wipe it off, to make the frosting adhere. Put it over Svith a broad-bladed knife; it should be 'put on quite thick. 872 CAKES. When this coating is dry, dilute the remainder in your dish with a little rose water and put another coating over the top, which will have a glossy appearance. If the first coating of frosting is inclined to •• run," put a rim of stiff paper around the sides of the loaf to retain it in place until it hardens. A' teaspoonful of cornstarch is some- times added, but it makes the frosting liable to crumble. — Yellow Frosting. — For one loaf of cake use the yolks of 2 eggs and without previously beating thicken them with powdered sugar, quite stiff, and apply while cake is hot. The rule for quantity of sugar cannot be determined, as some eggs are larger than others. Flavor with orange. ]Pln]£ Frosting. — Make a white frosting and give the desired shade of pink by adding a drop or two of cochineal color. Some cooks use one-half of a teaspoonful of the aniline to be bought at the drug stores. The three shades, white, pink and yellow, are very pretty in a ribbon cake. OncL other shade may be given by using chocolate frosting also. Cocoanut Frosting. — Stir a quantity of cocoanut, fresh grated, or desiccatedT^nto ordinary white frosting. Confectioners' Frosting. — Beat the white of 1 egg an instant, then stir in the sugar till about the consistency of Indian meal pud- ding or mush ; flavor with anything liked. A little strawberry may be added to make it pink, or grate a little chocolate in ; when the cake is cold, or nearly so, spread on the frosting with a broad, thin- bladed knife ; if there is not a sufficient quantity of sugar the frost- ing will run. Boiled Frosting. — One cupful of white sugar boiled with one- half cup of water until it will wax when dropped into cold water. Pour this over the well-beaten white of 1 egg. Stir briskly until it is cool enough to thicken. After the top of the cake has been covered, stir in a littlfe fine dry sugar before frosting the sides. The cake should be cold. Put in the oven a moment to dry. Soft Icing. — Ten tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, whites of 2 eggs. Flavor with vanilla or rose. Mix the sugar and egg together in a bowl by merely stirring. Spread this semi-transparent mixture over the cake. Put a rim of paper around the cake to keep the frost- ing in place until dry. Icing is more tender made in this way than when the whites are beaten first. CAKES. 373 Boiled Icing. — One and one-half cups powdered sugar, one-half cup water, come to a boil, and boil a few minutes until it drops heavy and forms threads ; then pour on the whites of 2 eggs. Add extract of orange, lemon or rose, and beattill almost cold ; spread and put in a jar or box for 2 days, when it will melt in your mouth. liemon Icing. — Beat the whites of 4 eggs ; whip in 1 j^ pound of powdered sugar, beat smooth ; add the juice of a lemon and a few drops of lemon extract; beat 20 minutes; put on the cake in large spoonfuls, and smooth with a knife dipped in cold water. liCmon Icing, Eggless. — Two tablespoons of cold water, the strained juice of one-half a lemon. Thicken with confectioners' sugar and spread on cake. Almond Icing. — A delicious addition to a loaf of white cake. Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth, stir in half a pound of pow- dered sugar and a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanched and pow- dered to a paste. Flavor with orange flower water, rose water or a few drops of almond extract.-' Coffee IcLag, Eggless.— -All that is required for this excellent finish is half a cupful of strong coffee, into which is stirred about as much pulverized sugar as it will take up. Beat well and spread wiA a knife while the cake is slightly warm. / Maple Sugar Icing, Elggless. — Put a cupful of dry maple sugar and 4 tablespoonfuls of sweet, thick cream on the stove, and when the sugar is melted let it boil until it will harden in cold water. Cool it A little, then spread on the cake. Wedding Cake Frosttng. — Whites of 3 eggs and 2 pounds of confectioners' sugar, not powdered, for each 10-pound loaf of cake. Put eggs and sugar together into a deep bowl and 1 teaspoonful of rose water. Be sure the sugar is free from lumps, and beat with stout wire beater until you can turn the bowl upside down. Then spread on warm cake, about I inch thick, and dry in a cool oven. Crease with broad knife when partly cool, to be able to cut without breaking. Brush cake over with unbeaten whites before laying frosting on, so it will stick. Take a little of the icing and lay it aside for qrnamenting afterward. When the cake comes out of the oven, spread smoothly over it with a knife and dry it at once in a cool oven. To ornament the cake with it, make a cone of stiff writing paper and squeeze th* icing through it so as to form leaves, beading or letters, • It required 374 CAKES. nicety and care to do it with success. If wedding cake is to be kept a long time, do not frost what is laid away until ready to use. Delmonico Weddingr Cake. — -One pound of butter, 2 pounds of brown sugar, three- quarters of a pound of flour, 1 cupful dark mo- lasses, 10 eggs, 1 pound of blanched almonds, 3 pounds raisins, 2 pounds currants, 1 pound cit- ron, 1 pound figs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cinna- mon, 2 gills rose water, 1 tablespoonful ground cloves. Stone the rais- ins, wash and dry thor- oughly the currants, shred the citron, cut up the figs in small pieces and put all together in a wooden bowl and chop fine. Chop and add the almonds. Then sprinkle and rub thoroughly with an extra one-half pound of flour that has been browned.^ The cake is lightly put together in the usual way and the fruit put in last. Line the pans with thick, buttered paper and bake slowly in a moderate oven. Black Fruit Cake.— Three cupfuls of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar (brown), 8 eggs, ly^ pints of browned flour, 3 cupfuls of currants, 2 cupfuls of seeded raisins, 1 J^ cupfuls of sliced citron, 1 cupful of blanched chopped almonds, one-half ^cupful of candied lemon-peel, sliced fine; one-half cupful of candied orange-peel, sliced fine; one- half cupful of rose water or black coffee (cold); 2 teaspoorifuls each of nutmeg and mace ; 1 teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice, 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla. Beat sugar and butter to a light cream, beat eggs to a light froth, ad^ them to sugar and butter, beat them all for 10 minutes ; then add the other ingredients, and mix to a smooth paste; then put it into a cake pan that is lined with a white paper that has been greased with lard; cover the outsides and bottom CAKES. " 37a of baking-dish with three thicknesses of wrapping paper ; cover the dish before you put cake in, have oven at a moderate heat, put cake Vi, bake six hours; when there is a light crust on top cover the cake ttrith thick wrapping paper ; be sure to keep the heat up by adding a shovelful of coal from time to time; watch carefully that it does not bake too fast, take from the oven very gently, let sit in baking-dish until cold, then remove and ice it if wished. Brown the flour in a pan in the oven, stirring very frequently. If one kind of fruit is omitted, double some other kind of the fruit used, or add more flour. Cheap Fruit Cake. — One teacupful butter, 1 teacupful brown sugar, 1 teacupful molasses, 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 teaspoonful soda stirred in 1 teacupful sour milk, 1 pound currants, washed ; 1 poundraisins, seeded; 4 teacupfuls sifted flour. Flavor to taste. A good, tested combination is 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, and 1 teaspoon- ful of lemon extract. If not strong, use a little more of each. Mix, and bake in" a medium oven. Plum Cake. — One cup butter, 2 cups brown sugar, 3 eggs, one- half cup milk, one-half cup molasses, one-half pound raisins (seeded), one- half pound currants, 2 tablespoons quince syrup (currant jelly may be used), 2 tablespoons mixed spice, 2 squares chocolate, melted; one-half teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon cream tartar, 4 cups flour ; flour the currants and raisins before adding to ^^'« ^^^ ^^^ ^°"^*- the mixture ; bake in small tins, sifting powdered sugar over the top of each before putting them in the oven. Jam Fruit Cake. — Make batter for an ordinary cup-cake, and add a small cupful of blackberry jam. When baked, cut in squares and serve without frosting. Cream Fruit Cake (Plain). — Two cupfuls brown sugar, 1 cup- ful sour cream (thick), three-quarters cupful currants, 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in the cream ; 3 cupfuls flour, three-quarters cupful of raisins. 1 egg. Dried Apple Cake. — Two cups dried apples; stew just enough to chop, and chop about the size of raisins ; boil in 2 cups of molasses till preserved through ; drain off the molasses; for the cake add 2 876 CAKES. eggs, 1 cup butter, 1 cup sour milk, 2 teaspoons soda, 4 cups flour, and spices of all Icinds ; add the apple the last thing. Nut Cake. — One-half cup of butter creamed with 1 cup of sugar, 2 eggs (reserve one of the whites for the frosting), two-thirds of a cup of Inilk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 2 cups of flour, 1 cupful hickory-nut meats chopped. "Beat the eggs, sift, the baking powder with the flour and mix all together. Flour the nuts. Bake in shal- low square tins, so that the loaf will be about 2 inches thick. Cut in squares and frost, put one-half an English walnut on each square. If the cake is wished white, use the whites of 3 eggs instead of the 2 whole eggs. Walnut Cake. — One cup of sugar, one-half cup of milk, 2 cups of flour, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon of soda, 1 large cup of raisins, 1 large cup of nuts chopped .fine. Flour the raisins and nuts before putting them in cake. Frost with a boiled frosting, or one made of confectioners'^'sugar. Halves of JEnglish walnuts make a great addition placed in the frosting. Fig Cake, Choice. — One cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 3 eggs, Sj4 cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 pojund of fi^s. Cut the figs in thin strips and sprinkle with flour ; than place a layet of cake batter in the cake-tin, next a layer of figs, and so on, finishing with a layer of cake. This is an excellent cake. Date Cake. — Make same as the fig cake given above, substituting dates for the figs. This is very nice frosted with half dates put on the frosting. . Election Cake. — ^This old-fashioned cake, dear to the hearts of our grandmothers, is a troublesome, but a delicious, cake. Five pounds of sifted flour, rubbed with 2 pounds of butter; 2 pounds of sugar, 1 }4. pints of home-made yeast, 2 pounds raisins, 8 tablespqon- fuls of wine, 8 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 4 eggs, 1 quart of sweet milk, 2 pounds of currants, 1 pound of citron, half ounce of grated nutmeg. To the butter and flour add half the sugar; then the yeast and half the milk. Lukewarm in summer ; hot in winter. Then the eggs beaten ; then the remainder of the milk and wine. Beat well, and let rise in a warm place iall night. In the morning beat some time, adding the brandy, sugar, spice and fruit (well floured), and let rise again very light. After which put in cake pans, and let rise 10 CAKES. 377 or 15 minutes. Have the oven about as hot as for bread, this cake will keep any length of time. Potato yeast is good to use. Tem- perance people can use 2 extra eggs and 2 wine glasses pf rosewater to take the place of the liquor with as good or better results. Chocolate Lioaf Cake. — One cup sugar, 2 eggs, one-third cup but- ter, half cup milk, 1 cup flour, lj4 teaspoons baking powder, half cup dissolved chocolate, half teaspoon salt. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the beaten yolks of eggs, milk, flour (in which the baking powder has been well mixed), the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and last the chocolate. I grate mine and place the cup in a dish of hot water. When cool frost with the following : One cup sugar, half cup milkj small pinch cream tartar ; boil about 8 minutes, and stir until stiff enough to spread ; flavor if desired. Chocolate caramel frosting may be used if the cake is wished very dark. Yellow frosting is also nice. Bake in a square tin and cut in squares. It is very pretty mixed with white cake. Chocolate Marble Cake. — White Part: One-h,alf cup of white sugar, one-fourth cup butter, whites of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of sweet milk, 1 large cup flour, one-half cup cocoanut, one heaping tea- spoon baking powder, seasoning as preferred. Dark Part: One-half cup brown sugar, one-fourth cup molasses, one-fourth cup butter, yolks of 2 eggs, one-fourth cup of sour milk, 1 scant teaspoon soda, 1 cup flour, one-half cup grated chocolate. Va- nilla. Put a layer of the white batter in the pan, drop the chocolate batter in places, then pour on the rest of the white batter. Hot-water Sponge Cake. — One and a half cups of powdered sugar, ox \y^ cups of granulated. Four eggs, 2 small teaspoons baking powder, 4 tablespoons boiling water, and a pinch of salt. Cream yolks and sugar thoroughly, then add beaten whites and flour. Stir thoroughly, and then stir in the boiling water. This is a favorite recipe, economical and delicious. Cream Sponge Cake. — One cup of sugar, 3 eggs, two-thirds o/ a cup of sweet cream, 1 teaspoonful baking powder and 1^ cups of flour. Any flavoring preferred. Sponge Cake, SmaU Sheet.^One cup of powdered sugar, 3 eggs, 1 scant cup of sifted flour, a bit of salt, little nutmeg or juice of part of a lemon; beat the eggs very light; add the sugar and flavoring. Bake immediately. 378 CAKES. Angel Food. — ^The recipe herewith given is warranted to be the best, and challenges competition. Beat very stiff and dry 10 whites of eggs (one-half pint) ; sift together twice, one-half pound of pow- dered sugar, 5 ounces of pastry flour, 1 even teaspoonful of cream tartar; add all this to the eggs, stirring very gently with wooden spatula; sprinkle one-half teaspoonful of vanilla powder to it, and fill in the regular angel food tins. Soak these moulds in -^cold water always before using; fill while wet (just rinse them out), and when baked turn moulds upside down. Never grease or line the moulds with paper; just have^ them wet, and the cakes will fall out when cold, as white as snow.'^all the crust sticking to the mould. Frost very thin, and give icing a very delicate flavor, or just a littl^ lemon juice. Angel Food Frosting. — One and one-half cups of confectionery sugar; add a gill of sweet milk, beat it well; -put it on with a silver knife ; when the cake is halfcool, then crease for slices. Com Starch Cake. — ^Two cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter mixed together ; 1 cup of milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, 1 cup of corn- starch, and 2 cups of flour, and 1 teaspoon of cream tartar ; whites of 5 eggs, beaten. Be sure to sift the flour, cornstarch, and cream of tartar together. A white frosting, or a chocolate frosting, or a yellow frosting can be used with it. laly Cake. — One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter beaten to a crea,m ; :half a cup of sweet milk, half a cup of cornstarch, a cup and a half of flour, and a teaspoon and a half of baking powder. Last of all, add the whites of iS eggs, beaten to a froth. Flavor to suit the taste. Yellow frosting, and orange extract for flavoring, make the cake very nice. Delicate Cake. — Six whites of eggs, 2 cupfuls of sugiui creamed witli one-half cupful of butter ; add , three-quarters cupful of sweet milk or water, and 3 cupfuls of flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar, and one-half teaspoonful of soda. Flavor to suit. -Add the whites of eggs to the butter and sugar, and then the other ingre- dients. Use any preferred frosting, or none at all. liady Cake. — One cup of powdered sugar, and , half a cup of fcutter, beaten to a cream. Add the stiffly beaten whites of 5 eggs, 2 cups of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in it ; one- half cupful of water, and a teaspoonful of almond extract. Bake in a shallow tin, and when cool ice the top, and cut in small squares. CAKES. 379 Almond Cake. — ^Two cups of powdered sugar, one-half cup butter, one cup of milk, 2j^ cups of flour, one teaspoon of baking powder, the beaten whites of 5 eggs, 1 pound of finely chopped almonds. If the beauty of the cake is not considered, 3 whole eggs may be used. Where whites only are used, a yellow frosting is a good idea. Tuiii Frutti Frosting. — Nice for this, or any other white cake, is as follows : Yolks of 3 eggs, beaten thick; 18 teaspoons of pow- dered sugar, one-half cup citron cut fine, or of chopped raisins instead, or both ; flavor with vanilla ; put the frosting Oii the cake in the pan while hot, and harden in a cool oven. Pound Cake. — Beat the whites of 12 eggs to a stiff" froth. The yolks beat until they look light and white ; then beat in 1 pound of sugar ; next, beat in the whites ; cream a light pound of butter until it looks frothy ; then sift: in, by degrees, 1 pound of flour, and cream them together, and add the other mixture. Put in a little powdered mace, if you like, a wineglass of wine, or the same of brandy. Spiced Raisin Cake. — One scant cup of butter, 1 cup of sweet milk, 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of chopped raisins, 3 eggs, 4 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, one- half teaspoon of cloves, 1 nutmeg grated. Coffee Cake. — One cupful of butter and lard (half and half) ; one cupful of brown sugar, 1 cupful of common molasses, 1 cupful of cold coffee, 1 teaspoonful of soda (or 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of baking powder) ; 2 eggs, beaten separately ; 1 even tablespoonful of ginger, cinnamon, and cloves ; or spice to taste ; and from 3^ to 4 cupfuls. of sifted flour. Bake in a moderate oven. 1 cupful raisins improve it. ' - Ocange Cake. — Yolks of 5 eggs, whites of 4 ; 2 cupfulsof sugar.- one-half cupful of water; 1 orange, grated rind and juice; 2 cupfuls flour, three-quarters cupful butter, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking pow- der. Frost with the following frosting: White of 1 t.%%, 1 cupful white sugar, half the juice and grated rind of 1 orange. Lemon Cake. — One cupful butter, 2j^ cupfuls-^sugar ; 3 eggs, beaten separately ; 4 cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful soda dissolved in two-thirds cupful of milk ; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. No cream of tartar is used, the lemon juice furnishing the required acid. Mix butter and sugar ; add the beaten yolks, then the mill^ tfien the flour and lemon ; lastly, the beaten whites of the eggs. 380 CAKES. Frosting. — ^White of 1 egg (this can be reserved from the cake), 9 teaspoonfuls white sugar, 1 teaspoonful cornstarch, 1 teaspoonful lemon-juice. lioaf Cake. — Two cupfuls of light dpugh, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of butter, 1 cupful of cream, 2 eggs, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 1 cupful of raisins, 1 cupful of currants, 1 teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon and mace, and a grated nutmeg. Work well to- gether, and add sufficient flour to make it stiff! Shape in loaves, put into pans, raise, and bake slowly. 1-2-3-4: Cake. — One cup^ of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 8 cups of flour, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar and half teaspoon of soda, or.1 teaspoon of baking powder, nutmeg and extract of lemon. This makes a sheet or loaf Layer Cake. Marshmallow Cake. — Whites of 18 eggs, 2ji( cupfuls powdered sugar, 1 }4 cupfuls flour, 2 teaspoonfuls cream tartar, 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Beat the eggs very lightly, then cut the sugar in with a broad-bladed knife. Sift the flour three times with the cream of tar- tar, then cut it -into the eggs and sugar, beat and add the vanilla. Bake in three cakes in deep, new, unbuttered layer-pans^ Put white or brown paper in the bottom of the tins, and use a quick oven. Spread thickly between the layers and on top, a filling made as fol- lows : Marshmailow Filling. — Boil 2 cupfuls of sugar with 1 cupftll of water until it threads. Just before taking it off" the fire put in one- half ppund of marshmallows, broken in bits to melt more easily. Pour this mixture gradually into the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs, and beat continuously until cold. ~ - DevU's Food. — Two cupfuls irown sugar, creamed with half cup- ful butter ; 3 eggs, 1 cupful water, 2^ cupfuls flour before sifting, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice, cinnamon; half teaspoon black pepper; half a nutmeg, grated; use a dark chocolate frosting. Boil 2 teacupfuls of raisins soft, seed and chop fine. Put between the layers on the frosting. Chocolate Cream Cake.- — One cup of butter, 2 of sugar, 3 of flour, 1 of milk, 1 teaspoonful of soda, 2 teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, 4 eggs. Dissolve the soda in the milk, adding it the last thing before baking. This will make 2 cakes of 3 layers each. Put together with chocolate cream filling already given, or with the following : CAKES. 381 Chocolate Cream. Filling. — Grate one-half pound of chocolate, pour on it one-half pint of boiling milk, stir well, and add 1 t^g, beaten vith a cup of sugar. Flavor with vanilla. When both cake and fill- ing are cold put the filling between the layers of cake. If it is desired to frost the top of the cake, use the following : Frosting. — Whjtft of 1 egg, 1 cup of powdered sugar, 1 teasipoon of melted chocolate, quarter teaspoon of vanilla. Chocolate JLayer Cake. — Two-thirds cup of grated chocolate, half cup of sweet milk, yolk of 1 egg beaten. Cook this enough to mix thor- oughly, and while warm add butter the size of a butternut and cool. Then add half cup sweet milk, 1 cup sugar, 1^ cups flour, 1^ teaspoons of baking powder. Flavor with vanilla and bake in layers. Filling and Icing. — Put a cup of gran- ulated sugar over the fire, with enough cold water to cover ; boil until it strings ; stir in 4 ounces of chocolate, melted as above, and the whites of 2 eggs, beaten light ; remove from the fire and beat until almost cold. Chocolate Caramel Cake. — One and a half cupfuls of white sugar, creamed with half cupful butter, two-thirds cupful water, yolks of 3 eggs or 2 whole eggs ; 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, sifted with 3 cupfuls of flour. Bake in layers, and put together with the following Caramel: d Caramel — Half pound of sugar, 2 squares of chocolate (Baker's), 1 teaspoonful butter, half cupful water or milk. Set the dish in boiling milk, and stir until thick enough, spread. Set the cake in the oven to dry for a few minutes. Ice C^'eam Cake. — Half cupful butter, 1^ cupfuls sugar, 2 cup- fuls flour, half cupful milk, whites of 5 eggs, 2 level teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful vanilla extract. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat into it the sugar and then the, vanilla. Now add the milk and also the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Finally stir in the flour and baking powder mixed together. Pour this batter into shallow cake pans that have been well buttered, 882 CAKES. and bake in a moderate oven for 25 or 30 minutes.iv When cool, ice. The icing is to be made after the rule given for tee Cream Filling. Put on the filling thick as possible. It makes a delicious cake. Banana Layer Cake. — Make any preferred layer cake. Put to- gether with either of the banana fillings given before, or simply ice the layers with a soft icing, and cover thickly with sliced bananas. Filling: Slice up some' bananas and stir them through a cup of rich cream. It is very delicate arid rich. Orange Jelly Cake. — Three eggs, one-half cupful of butter, 2 cupfuls of sugar, 1 cupful of milk, 2 j^ cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of Royal baking powder ; bake in jelly pans. Jelly for Cake. — Take 2 good oranges, grate a part of the rind of 1, then peel and grate them all, remove the seeds and add 1 cup- ful of sugar, 2 tablespdonfuls of water, and scald in a tin set in a kettle of hot water. Take 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mix smooth "with a few spoonfuls of cold water, and stir into the orange enough to soak the cornstarch. When quite cold beat the whites of 2 eggs and add powdered sugar for frosting. Leave out a little of this for the top of the cake, and stir the rest into the orange, and you will have a jelly that will not run off or soak into the cake. Orange Layer Cake. — Half cupful of butter creamed with 2 cup-- fuls sugar, add the juice of 1^ oranges and the yellow rind of 1 orange, grated. Stir in one, at a tijiie, the yolks of 4 eggs. Dis- solve half a teaspoonful of soda in half a cup of water, and add it to the other ingredients. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff and stir into the cake with 2 cups of flour, in which a teaspoonful of cream of tartar has been sifted. Bake in layers, and when cool frost each one and place them one over the other. When the third layer is frosted, and before it hardens, lay small quarters of orange around the edge. Frosting. — The white of 1 large egg beaten stiff, add 1 cup of powdered sugar, then the juice of 1>^ oranges, the grated rind of 1 orange and powdered sugar enough to make it spread nicely. Lemon Layer Cakei— -One cupful of butter, 3 cupfuls powdered sugar, yolks of 5 eggs. Stir to a cream. Juice and grated yellow rind of 1 lemon, 3 cupfuls flour, one-half teaspoonful "^oda dissolved in 1 cupful milk. No cream of tartar; the lemon supplies the acid. Add the beaten whites of 4 eggs last. Bake in two layers and put together with the following icing : Reserve 1 white of egg from the CAKES. 383 cake, add to it 1 teaspoonful of cornstarph, 9 of white sugar, arid 1 of lemon juice ; put between the layers and over the- top. This is good baked in a loaf and frosted. Lemon Jelly Cake.-^One cup of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of butter,' 1 egg, 1 cup of milk, 2j4 cupfuls of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in three layers and put together with lemon jelly made as follows : /eUy. — Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1 egg, butter size of a walnut, and one-half cup of water. Boil until the consistency of cornstarch. Cocoanut Layer Cake. — Three-quarters of a cupful of butter creamed with 2 cupfuls white sugar, 1 cupful sweet milk, 4 eggs, whites and yolks separately beaten, the yolks added first to the but ter and sugar, then the whites ; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Sift 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder in 3 cupfuls sifted flouir and add last. Bake in jelly tins. Filling: Whites of 3 eggs and 1 cupful powdered sugar beaten to a froth. . When the cake is cold spread a thick layer over each cake and sprinkle thickly with grated cocoanut. If the prepared cocoanut is used, moisten it with milk before usin^. Cocoanut and Almond Layer Cake. — Two and one-half cupfuls" powdered sugar creamed with 1 cupful butter, 4 cupfuls sifted flour, whites of 7 eggs beaten stiff, 1 teacupful milk, one-half teaspoonfuJ soda, juice of 1 lemon, no cream of tartar, the lemon will supply the acid, 1 grated cocoanat, or 1 cupful desiccated cocoanut moistened in a little milk. Stir the lemon juice into the butter and sugar, add the milk and the egg whites and flour alternately. Lastly stir in the grated cocoanut swiftly and lightly. Bake in four jelly-cake tins. Filling: One pound sweet almonds, whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff, 1 -heaping cupful powdered sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls rose water. Blanch the almonds and rub to a paste, adding the rose water a little/at a time. Save out a couple of dozen to shred for the top. Stir this paste into the icing after it is made. Spread between the cooled cakes. Stir a little more sugar in that meant for the top,, and when' it is partly cool stick the shredded almonds closely over it. Put in the oven to harden. Do not let it scorch. Sponge Cream Cake.— Two eggs and three-fourths of a cup of granulated sugar beaten together very -light. Add 5 tablespoonfuls of boiling water (be sure the water is boiling) as quickly as possible, beat slightly, then add a cup of flour sifted twice, with a teaspoonful 384 CAKES. baking powder and a saltspoonful of salt. Flavor slightly with lemon or vanilla or nutmeg. Beat until the flour is absorbed, no longer. Bake in 2 jelly cake pans 12 minutes in a quick oven. The batter is so thin the whole process of mixing can be done with the egg-beater. Whip 1 cup of cream stiff, sweeten with pulverized sugar, adding it a spoonful at a time while you are beating until you havf~ it sweet enough. Flavor to taste. Put part of it on the bottom of one cake, lay the other cake on with the top up and put the remainder of the cream in a pastry bag containing a star tube in the end and decorate the surface with dots of the cream. Sponge Fig' Cake. — Take 12 large figs, wash, chop fine and boil until soft. Beat the whites of 4 eggs stiff and mix with them a cup- ful of powdered sugar. Mash the figs with a spoon into a paste and stir in the eggs and sugar. Bake a sponge _cake in shallow plates or pans, and when cold spread the filling thickly between the layer?, and over the top ; you may flavor the filling with either lemon or vanilla. Fig Layer C^ke. — Beat 3 eggs and 1 cup sugar 15 minutes, add one-half cup milk and 1^ cups flour, with 2 teaspoons of baking powder sifted with flour. Mix and add 1 tablespoon of melted but- ter. Bake quickly in shallow layer cake tins. Filling: One pound of figs chopped fine (add a little cold water if they chop hard)j one- half cup sugar, one-half cup cold water. Mix and cook slowly until a smooth paste. Add juice of 1 lemon. Frosting: White of egg and confectioners' sugar. Tutti Frutti Layer Cake. — Make any preferred rule of layer cake, rather rich, and put together with the following: Filling.— -r- Boil 1 pound sugar, 1 gill of water, till it ropes, then pour on stifY whites of 4 eggs. Beat hard, add one-quarter of a pound chopped citron, one-quarter of a pound chopped figs, one-half pound seeded and chopped raisins, 1 pound blanched and pounded almonds (or chopped) ; these all well stirred together before mixing with the egg mixture. Spread between the layers and on top and sides of cake, or, cut in squares or three-cornered, etc., and frost each separate piece. Very nice for whist parties, etc. Bibbon Fig Cake. — ^Two-thirds of a cupful of butter, 2 cupfuis sugar, 1 cupful milk, 3 cupfuls flour sifted, with 3 teaspoonfuls bak- ing powder. Divide the batter. To one half add 1 yi cupfuls chopped figs and bake in 2 jelly tins. Leave the other half plain and bake in CAKES. 385 S jelly tins. Put together in alternate layers of light and dark, using a plain frosting. Wasliington Pie. — Cake Part, One egg, three-quarters cup sugar, granulated, 1 tablespoon butter, 1^ cups flour, three-quarters cup milk, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, half teaspoon soda. Bake in Wash- ington pie tins. Filling: Cup milk, sweetened to taste, add 1 &gg well beaten, heat to boiling point, add 2 teaspoons cornstarch dis- solved in a little water. After it has boiled up remove from fire. When ready to fill cake, spread, then slice 2 whole bananas, lay on cream, put a little TOore cream over them, then lay the cake on top. The bananas may be omitted. The top can be frosted if desired. Peach Cake. — Bake 2 laye|;s of plain sponge cake. Cut pesiches in thin slices and add sugar. Put a layer of peaches on 1 sheet of cake and cover with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Add the other layer of cake and cover with whipped cream alone. Cranberry Cake. — Use the same rule as for peach cake, or even a plainer, 1-egg cake. Bake in jelly-cake tins, and when cool spread between the layers with cranberry jelly, and then sift powdered sugar on top. Berry Cake. — Make a plain layer cake, bake in 2 tins. Filling: Make a soft frosting of the whites of 2 eggs and 2 spoons of sugar ; take nearly half of this and spread on cake, then take 1 quart of fresh blueberries or raspberries, sweeten to taste, and spread half of them on the soft frosting on cake, then put on second layer, spread rest of berries, and, last, rest of soft frosting. This is a delicious dessert for dinner. Strawberry Liayer Cake. — Make a layer cake after any preferred recipe, bake in 3 tins. Have the strawberries carefully picked over. Beat the whites of 2 eggs lightly and add gradually 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat until stiff enough to stand alone. Put a layer of this over the top of 1 cake, then a layer of berries ; stand another cake on top of this. , Put the remainder of the white filling over the top of this cake, then another layer of berries. Now place the remaining cake on top of this, press down lightly, dust the top over with powdered sugar, and it is ready for use. Filling: Take 1 cup of strawberries, mash, add white of 1 egg and 1 cup of sugar, beat the same as for apple snow; raspberry, jam can be used in the same way. COOK— 85 . 386 CAKES. Apple Jelly Cake.— One egg, 1 _cup of sugar, 1 cup of sweet, milk, butter size of an egg, 2 cups of flour, and 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in jelly cake tins. Jelly : Use 2 large or 3 small apples, grated, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, the juice and grated rind of a lemon. Boil 5 minutes ; place between cakes. This makes a delicious filling for a pie also. Apple Snow Cake. — ^One &gg and 1 yolk of another; 1 cupful sugar, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 2 cupfuls flour. Bake in 3 tins. Filling: One grated sour apple, white of 1 egg, 1 cupful of fine sugar. Beat together, spread between and on top of the cake. Flavor with lemon extract, or a little lemon-juice.- A plain tart apple skuce may be made, well sweetened, beaten smooth and spread between the layers. tTelly Cake. — Three eggs, well beaten ; half cupful sweet milk, or water; 2 tablespoonfuls butter,! cupful sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, sifted with 1}^ cupfuls flour. Bake in four layers. Put . together with any kind of jelly, marmalade, or jam. Walnut Layer Cake. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, 2 cups of flour, 3 eggs, yolks of all and whites of one, 1 teaspoon of soda in half cup milk, 2 of cream of tartar, and bake in 3 layers. Filling : Beat the whites of 2 eggs ^with 1 cup of sugar and add 1 cup of chopped walnuts. Put the cake together with this. Filling. — //. Take 1 cup of sugar, enough water to dissolve it, let it boil till it drips slowly from the spoon, then pour it on the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Stir till thick. Take half of it and add pkrt of the walnut meats chopped. Spread between the layers. Put the rest of the frosting on top and lay a row of the halves of the Walnuts around the edge of the cake. It requires the meats from half a pound of walnuts. Ifeapftlitan Cake {Dark part). — One cup of brown sugar, one- half cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter, one-half cup of strong coffee, 3 eggs, 3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of baking powder, 1 cup of raisins, 1 cup of currants, 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and mace. Bake in jelly cake pans. / ^^ft (Light Part).— T-wo cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, 3 cups of flour, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of balcing powder and the whites of 4 eggs. Put together alternately With dark, spreading icing between. Ice the top. CAKES. 387- Fruit Layer Cake. — One cupful sugar creamed with one-half cupful butter, 2 eggs, one-half cupful sweet milk, 1^ cupfuls flour sifted with 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 1 cupful raisins chopped, one-half cupful Zante currants, 1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon, nut- meg and allspice, -Add the fruit last, dredging well with flour. Bake in 3 layers, using frosting to put together when baked ; frost top and sides. Baisin I^ayer Cake. — Make as above, using raisins only for the fruit. Bake in 3 layers and frost. Layer Spice Cake. — Two cupfuls sugar creamed with 1 cupful butter, 1 cupful sweet milk, or milk and water, 4 cupfuls flour sifted with 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 4 eggs well beaten. Divide the batter. Bake one-half in 2 layer tins, and to the other half add one- half cupful molasses, 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful each of nutmeg and allspice, one-half teaspoonful cloves. Bake in 2 layer cake tins and put together alternately light and dark, with any frost- ing or icing that may be preferred. Maple Caramel Cake. — Two eggs (save out the white of one), 1 cup of granulated sugar, 1 tablespoon of melted butter, 1^ cUps of sifted flour, two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 2 teaspoons of baking powder (not heaping). , Sift baking powder in with flour and bake in 3 layers. Filling: Two cups of pure maple sugar; put on stove with a little water to keep from burning ; let it cook until it hairs ; then set off, and beat the white of the egg to a froth and stir in sugar and beat until cool enough to spread without running. It v/ants to be' kept in a cool, dry place. It is very nice to put 1 cup of English walnuts chopped in the filling, after the egg is put in. Maple Sugar Cake. — Make a layer cake as above, and put to- gether with the following filling. Filling: Put in a new tin 1^ cups of maple sugar, 1^ cups of sweet cream, 1 tablespoon of butter; boil all together 40 minutes, flavor with a teaspoon of vanilla and spread between the cake if made in layers ; beat until cool and creamy, and spread. Begin this before the cake is commenced. Caramel Cake. — Two eggs, 1 cup of sugar, one-half cup of but- ter, one-half cup of milk, 1 teaspoon of cream of tartar, one-half tea- -spoon of soda and 2 cups of flour. Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs (whites and yolks well beaten separately, then together), then the milk, in which the soda is dissolved, and lastly the flour. 888 CAKES. with which the cream of tartar is sifted. Bake in 2 layers. Filling : Boil together 2 coffee cups of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of milk and a piece of butter the size of an egg. After boiling 10 minutes, re- move from the fire, beat until cool and creamy ; flavor and spread be- tween the layers and on top of the cake. Vanilla is the best flavor for this filling, - Minnehalia Cake. — ^Two cups of brown sugar, 2 cups of flour, one-half cup of water and 5 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, grated peel of 2 oranges ; mix sugar and yoWis together, then add the water and whites of eggs well beaten, and the flour, in which has been sifted the baking powder. Add flavoring according to taste. Bake in square or round layers. For the filling, 1 pound of sugar boiled until it flies from the- spoon i^^ strings ; upon this pour the whites of 4 eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Beat hard; then add one-quarter pound of chopped citron, one-quarter pound of chopped figs, one-half pound seeded and cut-fine raisins, 1 pound of blanched almonds chopped fine. Mix all together and add the icing. Gradually spread between the layers and on the top and side of the cake. This cake can be used at any collation, for supper or dessert^ and if put in a stone crock it will keep fresh for some time. Ambrosia Cake. — Three-quarters of a cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 4 eggs, one-half cup of milk, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoohs of baking powder ; bake in 4 jelly cake tins ; when cold put between the layers the following: Filling.— Oae^mi of whipped cream, 1 co- coanut grated, 2^ eggs, 1 cup of sugar, grated rind of 1 and juice of 2 oranges. ^* - Pond Lily Cake. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of sugar, the whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff; beat all together, add 1 cup of s'weet milk, 3 cups of flour, with 1 teaspoon of baking powder sifted with it. Bake in 4 layers, put together with the following : Filling. — The yolks of 4 eggs, beaten with 1 cup of sugar until very thick it^d light, flavor with rose or orange, use the other white for frosting the top. Flavor the cake whil.e hot with vanilla ; use an atomizer, as baking spoils the strength of the vanilla, if not of the best quality. - Bebel Cake.— " Rebel cake " is a great favorite in the South. It was so named in honor df the great Confederate, General Robert E. Lee. Take 9 eggs, the weight of 7 eggs in sugar, the weight of 4 eggs in flour, down weight. Add the sugar to tile well-beaten yolk* CAKES. 389 of 9 eggs, then add the whites, beaten very light, Stir the flour gently and season with fresh lemon ; bake in jelly cake tins. When cold spread each layer with the following filling : Strain the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges and 1 lertion through a fine sieve into a pound of pulverized Sugar. Add to this a grated cocoanut and the white of an egg beaten very light. This recipe will make two cakes of nine layers each. Fancy Cakes. Vanilla Wafers. — One cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, 1. *gg» 4 tablespoons of milk, 1 tablespoon of vanilla, 2 full teaspoons of baking powder. Cream the butter, then add the sugar, beating them well together. Add the egg, well beaten, then the milk and' vanilla ; sift the baking powder in with part of the flour, using flour enough to roll out very thin. Bake in a quick oven. Sprinkle sugar on top before cutting out. Almond Wafers. — Take three-quarters of a pound of blanched and finely chopped almonds, and mix with ' them 6 ounces of pow- dered sugar, 3 whole eggs that are beaten up together, and 1]4 ounces of finely sifted flour ; flavor the mixture with essence of va- nilla and then cook as follows : Take some baking tins and brush them over with white wax ; aUpw them to get cool, then spread the mixture on the tins very thinly, and bake in a very moderate oven until the water dries on top ; then take up the tins and cut the paste into strips — rounds or squares, as liked^— put in a screen or very moderate oven, and let them remain until quite dry. If kept in a dry place they will keep for some time, and can be used with ices or creams, or compotes of fruit, or for dessert. _ Walnut Wafers. — ^One-half pint of brown sugar, one-half pint of walnut meats, 3 even tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2 eggs. Beat the eggs ; then add sugar, salt, flour, and walnuts. Drop from spoon on buttered paper, and bake until brown. Seed Wafers."— One-half pound of sugar, one-quarter pound of butter, creamed with the sugar; 4 eggs, beaten very light; enough flour for soft dough ; 1 ounce caraway seeds, mixed with the dry flour. Mix well ; roll into a very thin paste. Cut into round cakes; brush each over with the white of an egg, sift powdered sugar upon it, and bake in a brisk oven about 10 minutea, or until eruqx Do not 890 CAKES. take them from the baking tins until nearly cold, as they are apt to break while hot. Cocoanut Wafers. — One cup of, sugar, three-quarters cup of butter, 1 egg, 4 tablespoons, of milk, J ^ teaspoons of cream of tartar, three-quarters teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll thin. Stir in one-half cup of cocoanut. Bake in a quick oven. IJemon Wafers. — Dainty lemon wafers to serve with ice are made of 2 eggs, their weight in sugar, and half their weight in flour, and the grated rind of 1 lemon. Beat thoroughly. Then drop on a buttered pan, and bake till a pale yellow brown. Flatten the cake as it spreads on the pan, to give wafers the size of a small teacup top. Eggr Wafers. — To 1 large egg add 1 tablespoonful of su- gar ,(brown is the best) ; put sugar and egg together, and beat thoroughly for 5 minutes; then knead in ^ prepared flour enough to make them of the consistency of doughnuts ; roll "but thin, cut out with the biscuit cutter (or with something still smaller, if you- like), and fry in hot lard the same as doughnuts. They will not soak fat, and are nice for lunch ; 3 lar^e eggs will make enough for one meal for a family of four. Prepared Flour. — To 1 quart of unsifted flour, add 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon of soda, and 1 teaspoon of salt. Sift 2 or 3 times, Shut up in a tin pail what flour you don't use. Keep in a cool place ; it will make good biscuit. Chocolate wafers. — One cup of butter, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup grated chocolate, 1 egg, 1 teaspoonful baking po^vder, one-half cup water, 1 teaspoonful vanilla, flour to make a stiff" batter; roll thin, and cut with square cufter. Bake on ereiased tins.~" CAKES. 391 Tea Lemon Wafers — Beat a quarter of a pound of butter t6 a cream; add half a pound of powdered sugar. Beat 6 eggs until creamy, and mix with the butter and sugar; then add the juice and rind of 2 lemons, with 1 grated nutmeg, and flour to make a stiff batter. Beat all together until smooth and light. Heat, the wafer irons over a clear fire, grease lightly with butter, put in enough of the batter to fill the irons, close, and turn over a clear fire until brown. Take out, dust with powdered sugar, and roll around a smooth stick. Remove carefully, when cold. (Very dainty little cakes.) Cream Fruit Wafers. — One-half of a cupful of butter beaten to a cream ; into this stir 1 small cupful of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of coffee extract. Into one-half pint of sour cream put one-half tea- spoonful of soda, and add to the other mixture with half a cupful of chopped raisins and enough flour to roll out thin. These wafers are delicious. ^ Lady Fingers. — Into one-quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar stir the yolks of 3 eggs until very light ; beat the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth, and stir into the first mixture; add gently half a cup of sifted flour ; bake in lady-finger pans, sprinkled with pulverized sugar. Bake in a slow oven 15 minutes. Lemon Snaps, — Two small lemons, juice of 2 and grated rind of 1, 1 teacup of sugar, half a cup of butter, 1 egg, 3 teaspoonfuls of liiilk, half a teaspoonful of soda, 1 teaspoonful of cream tartar, mix with enough flour to make rather stiff. If lemons are not convenient, simply flavor strongly with lemon extract. Coffee Snaps. — One-half cup molasses, half cup sugar, half cup lard or butter^a little salt, half teaspoonful soda, dissolved ; one-quar- ter 'cup of strong coffee. Beat well, add flour enough to roll, and bake in a quick oven. Cream Puffs. — One cup of boiling water poured over half cup of butter. When you have done this, place it on the stove, bring to a boil, and add 1 cup of sifted flour. Let boil 5 minutes, beating all the time. When cool add 3 eggs, not beaten. Beat for 10 minutes, then add soda the size of a pea. This makes 12 large puffs. Bake 30 minutes. Filling : One cup of milk, 1 egg, half clip of sugar. Beat until thick. Flavor to taste. This recipe will always puff. When the puffs and the cream are both cool, open a little way on the side with a sharp knife and fill with the cream. aw CAKES. Hom aof Plcinty. — ^Two eggs. Their weight in tngir 5 htlf their weight in flour; flavor to suit. Beat thoroughly. Bake quickly. When taken from the oven, roll each one into a little cornucopia. Fill when serving with whipped cream. These are very pretty to look at at afternoon teas, and nice to eat with chocolate. A jelly or a chocolate filling may be used instead of cream. # Sand Tarts.— One cup butter, one-half cup molasses, 2 eggs (re- serving white of 1), 1 teaspoonful cinnamon,.! cup brown sugar, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Roll out thin, glaze with white of egg, sprinkle with granulated sugar, and when baked dot with bits of curralit jelly. Holiday Cakes. — Blanch three-quarters of a pound of shelled almonds, and slice in halves ; chop half a pound of citron ; mix them together and roll in sifted flour ; add to 6 well-beaten eggs and three-quarters of a pound of sugar ; mix well, and sift in a pound of flour. Butter long, shallow cake pans, put the batter in them and bake in a quick oven. When done^ take out, roll in sugar and finely pounded almonds. Put awayjn a tight tin box, and these cakes will keep for a year. Jnmbles. — Take a half pound of flour, 1 pound of granulated sugar, three-quarters pound of butter, and 3 eggs. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the eggs well beat- en, then a tea!spoonful of vahillaand half a nut- meg grated, then the, flour, wi^^h 1 teaspoon- Biscuit and Oake Cutters. ful of soda, dissolved in half 3, cup of milk. Beat the whole well together Dust the baking board with granulated sugar instead of flour ; roll out the mixture about an eighth of an inch in thickness, cut with a round cutter ; take the centres out with a smallar cutter; thus forming rings. Bake in a moderate oven until the edges are a delicate brown. liemon Jumbles. — Beat half a pound of butter to a cream and add gradually half a pound of powdered sugar ; add 3 well-beaten eggs, the juice of a lemon and 9 tablespoonftils flour. Beat all to- gether, drop in rings on the bottom of a greased baking-pah and bake in a moderate oven. When done, roll in sugar while hot. CAKES. 393 Qrandmother's Jumbles. — One cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 3 eggs, the gr'ated rind of an orange or lemon, and 2 tabtespoonfula of the juice, half a teaspdonful of soda dissolved in the juice. Flour enough to roll. Cut out centre of each cake. Almond Jumbles. — Beat 2 cups sugar and 1 ^ cups butter to a smooth, light cream. Add 6 eggs, 1 at a time, beating thoroughly, Add half a wine glass of apricot juice, half a cup of cornstarch and 3 of sifted flour. Blanch and chop 1 pound of almonds. Boil dough thin, cut with jumble cutter, sprinkle almonds over and sift with pow- dered sugar. Press a little to keep the nuts in place Bake in quick oven, with buttered paper on tins. Rosewater can be used in place of the apricot juice. Cocoanut Jumbles. — Stir together 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of butter, and the yolks, of 2 eggs. Add 1 grated cocoanut and 2jS^ cups of flour, measured before sifting. Last, stir in lightly the whites of 6 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Drop in rings 3 inches across on buttered tins, leaving them about 1 inch apart. Bake in a quick oven, first dusting the top with grated cocoanut. Fruit Jumbles. — 'One cup butter, 2 cups sugar, half cup sour milk, half teaspoonful of saleratus, 3 eggs, half grated nutmeg, S}4 cups flour, 1 cup currents. Bake in broad, shallow pans, and cut in square pieces while warm. Rolled Coffee Cakes.— ^Two cups of bread dough when ready for the balcing-pans, 4 scant tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 of sugar, the white of 1 egg beaten, a saltspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little water, and one-half teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. Mix and roll out one-quarter of an inch thick and spread with a paste made by stirring two-thirds of a cup of sugar into 1 well-beaten egg. Roll up like jelly-cake, cut around info pieces 1 inch thick. Set on end elose together in shallow tins. When very light bake in a rather quick oven. They are excellent warm or cold. Peanut Cakes. — One pint of peanut kernels rolled fine, one-half pound sugar, 3 eggs, butter the size of a walnut, 8 tablespoonfuls of flour. Can drop on greased tins or roll out and cut in round shape and bake. These are very good. Leb-Kuchen (German). — A favorite confection with Germans. Four eggs, 1 pound of sugar (beat in one direction one-half hour), 1 pound of flour, half a pound of cruBhed almonds, quarts pound of 394 CAKES. sliced citron, 1 lemon, grated rind ; 1 orange, peel ; half ounce of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of allspice, half tea- spoonful (scant) baking powder. Stir well, roll out about like jum- bles, cut jnto square cakes and bakfc. When cold, spread lightly with frosting. Some cooks add molasses or honey to above recipe, and this can be done if desired. German Orange Cake. — Beat well together the yolks of 6 eggs, 2 ounces of butter that has been creamed and a half pound of pow- dered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth. Sift to- gether a half pound of flour and a teaspoonful of baking powder. Take the juice; grated rind and soft pulp of 3 oranges, leaving .out carefully the seed and tough fibre. Mix as follows : First stir the oranges into the suga,r, butter and yolks; then put in the whites of the eggs and the flour alternately. Pour quickly into little pans, and bake in an oven that is not too hot. The icing may be made without eggs, which is a great convenience for a Christmas cake, when eggs are alvvays dear. Add the grated rind of an orange to a half pound of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of boiling 'water, and enough orange juice to moisten it thoroughly... Use at once. It is better to let the cakes get cool before beginning to make this icing. Zimmet Kucben. — Shorten simple bread dough by kneading in fresh, sweet butter. When the dough and butter have been so thor- oughly mixed that the former fairly puffs out with lightness, you have foundation for a "kuchen." Spread the dough thinly and evenly in a long, shallow tin ; cover this with an egg beaten briskly until it froths ; over this drop a coating of granulated sugar ; drop little lumps of sugar here and there and sprinkle liberally all over the top with powdered cinnamon. Be careful to leave a little margin of dough all th6 way round the tin. It is best to line tin with confec- tioners' paper or grease with fresh lard. Let this mixture rise a little while before puttitjg it into the brisk, hot oven, in which it must pe baked until the top is brown. The ingredients on the top of the kuchen will all run together and melt into a delicious sort, of candied top. Serve kuchen by cutting narrow strips (about half an inch wide) across the kuchen, and eat it like a stick of candy. Success in making good fried cakes depends as much on the cooking as on the mixing. In the first place, there should be boiling lard enough to free them from the bottom of the kettle, so that they swinj on the top, an4 the lard should never be so hot as to smoke or so cool as jiot to be at the boiling point ; if it is, they soak grease, and are spoiled. If it is at the right heat,, the doughnut will in about 10 minutes be of a delicate brown outside and nicely cooked inside. Five or six minutes will cook a cruller. Try the fat by dropping a bit of the dough in first ; if it is right, the fat will boil up when it is dropped in. They should be turned over almost con- stantly, which causes them to rise and . brown evenly. When they are sufficiently cooked, raise them from the hot fat, and drain them until every drop ceases dripping. Fried cakes shortened with butter are less likely to absorb fat than those shortened with lard. After fat has been used for frying doughnuts it should be set away to cool, when the sediment will sink and the lard may be removed in a clean cake. If very much scorched, clarify by boiling a few slices of raw potatoes in the lard. Fry only a few at a time, so that they can be easily turned. A mixture, two- thirds lard and one-third suet, is a wholesome fat for frying dough- nuts and less likely to soak the cake. Crullers. — Eight tablespoons of white sugar, 4 tablespoons of melted butter, 2 tablespoons of milk, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoon of soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar, 1 nutmeg, flour to make it stiff enough to roll ; cut in desired shapes and braid in 5 strands ; fry in hot lard. Roll in sugar. Cream Crullers. — One and one-half cups of sugar, 2 cups of cream, 2 eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, mixed in flour enough to roll out soft ; cut in desired shapes, and fry in very hot lard. Doughnuts. — Two eggs well beaten, 1 large cup granulated sugar, one-half a nutmeg, pinch of salt, 6 tablespoonfuls melted lard, 1 quart of buttermilk, 1 heaping teaspoon of soda, flour to make a 395 3W DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS, soft dou|^h. Roll one-half inch thick, and fry in hot, deep krd While hot roll them in powdered sugar. They should be put in jars and covered while warm. Dongrlinuts. — IL Beat 2 eggs, 1)4 cups of sugar, a piijch of sal^ about a teaspoon of grated nutmeg, a tablespoon of melted lard or butter together, then add 2 cups of sour milk or buttermilk and a heaping teaspoon of soda, flour enough to roll. Have it as soft as you can handle easily ; fry in very hot lard. Do not roll too thin, as the beauty of a doughnut is to have it plump. Put them in a stone jar or a covered tin pail and they will keep moist until they are eaten. It is better to use butter for shortening, as it is not so apt to soak fat. Doiigluiuts Without Shortening;. — One quart of flour sifted with 1}4 teaspoonfuls soda and 3 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar, 1 cupful sugar, one-quarter of a teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful mixed of cinna- mon and nutmeg, if spices are liked. Mix with enough sweet milk to roll out. Cut in round cakes and cut out the centre. Three tea- spoonfuls of baking powder can be used instead of creaan of tartar and soda. ' i ' Fried Pies. — Use this recipe and add chopped apples (sour) to the dough. Serve hot with sauce. Raised Doughnuts. — Scald 1 pint of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, half cup of butter, half cup of water with half cake of compressed yeast dissolved in it, a little cinnamon and nutmeg. Have the milk lukewarm and mix them all together at night. Make a stiff dough so as to knead. In the morning, if raised, stir down and let it rise again. After this rising roll them out about as thick as other dough- nuts, cut with a round cutter, lay them on a cloth and cover with another and let them rise until light. Then fry and roll in sugar. The success in making these depends on the temperature. It must be uniform ; that is, a warm place. These are better when freshly made. Cream Doughnuts. — Sift 1 quart of flour, into which stir2 heaping teaspoons of baking-powder, 1 teaspoon of salt, and sift again. Beat 2 eggs very light, with which beat two-thirds cup of sugar and 1 cup of thin sweet cream. Stir in the flour, leaving enough to use in moulding. Handle as little as possible. If cream is not easily ot tained, use a cup of sweet milk and a tablespoon of hot lard. Sou* cream and soda may be used. DOUGHNUTS AND CRULLERS. 3»t Balsed Doughnuts.— IL Haifa pound ofbutter,! pound of sugar, i quart of sweet milk, 1 large cup of yeast, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of mixed spice, equal quantities of nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, cloves and mace, and a teaspoon of salt. Make a sponge of the butter, sugar, milk, yeast, salt and three pints of flour. Let it rise over night. In the morning add the eggs and spice and flour enough to make it as stiff as bread dough. Let it rise again, roll into a thick sheet, cut (^u£ and fry in lard boiling hot. To test the fat to see if hot enough,* put in Jumble a little piece of the dough. If hot enough, the small Cutter, piece will soon rise to the top. Make the cake? in any shape with a cutter, or cut in- small strips and twist Raised Coffee Doughnuts. — One quart oi lukewarm milk, or half water and milk, half yeast cake dissolved in it, 1 large tablespoon of sugar, half teaspoon of salt and flour enough to make as stiff as bread, but not kneaded ; stir with a spoon quite stiff; raise over night. In the morning drop from a knife or spoon into boiling fat. Knead- ing makes them too hard. Serve hot with coffee. Use a larger quantity of sugar if more palatable. Molasses Doughnuts. — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of sour milk, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of soda, a very little ginger, a little salt and nut- meg; enough flour to roll soft. Very nice. Graham Doughnuts. — Two cupfuls buttermilk, teaspoonful soda, 1 cupful sugar, pinch of salt, 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter, 1 egg, Graham flour to roll out ; cinnamon to flavor, or nutmeg ; water, or sweet milk and two teaspoonfuls baking powder may be substituted for the sour milk and soda. ludlan-Meal Doughnuts. — One and a half cupfuls boiling sweet milk poured over 2 cupfuls of Indian meal, when cool add 2 cupfuls wheat flour, 1}4 cupfuls sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful salt; 1 egg is a great addition, but can be omitted; 1 tea- spoonful cinnamon if liked. If more flour is needed, add Indian meal and flour in equal parts. Roll half inch thick, cut m small squares or diamonds and fry in hot lard. Love XLuots. — One egg, 4 tablespoonfuls sweCt cream, 2 table- spoonfuls sugar, pinch of salt; flour to knead verj' bard; roll out cut in nawow strips. Tie each one in two or three kaota wi4 frv t» hot lard ; sprinkle with white sugar while hot Cookies are put together with less care than more elaborate cakes, and the eggs are not beaten separately. Drippings, cla- rified, can sometimes be used for shortening instead of butter. Bake sausage in the oven instead of frying, and the drippiiigs will be white and clear. Sugar Cookies. — One cup of sour milk, one-half ctip '- ' of butter, 2 cups of , sugar, even teaspoOn of soda, pinch of salt, nutmeg, and flour to fenead quite stiff Roll out, and sprinkle sugar over the top, and run your roller lightly over before cutting in fancy shapes. Bake in quick oven. Drippings can be used. Peerless Cookies. — Three eggs, 2 cups sugar, and two-thirds cup melted butter, beaten well together ; add one-half cup of milk, pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon baking powder, into 1 quart sifted flour. If this is not sufficient to roll stiff add more flour. Roll granulated sugar o« top of cookies before baking. Sprinkle the sugar on the board, and roll the dough over it. ligrgless Cookies. — Half cupful sweet milk, one-third teaspoonful soda dissolved in the milk; three-quarters teaspoonful cream of tartar sifted with part of the flour ; 1 cupful sugar, one-third cupful butter ; flour to roll thin. Cut with a cake cutter, and bake in, a quick oven. Sour milk and soda may be used, or 1 teaspoonful baking powder may be substituted for cream tartar and soda.- Drippings may be used instead of butter. Flavor or spice to the taste. Cream Cookies. — Dissolve 1 teaspoonful of soda in a little warm water, and add to 1 cup of sour cream. Cream 1 cup of butter with 2 of sugar, and add 2 eggs, beaten light, without separating, and the sour cream. Mix smooth, with S}4 cups of flour. Have this mix- ; ture as soft as possible ; roll out, and cut very nicely. Bake inf greased pans in a moderately quick oven: ( Ideal Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, half cupful butter, 2 tea- spoonfuls cinnamon, one-half grated nutmeg ; cream all together ; add 398 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 399 2 well-beaten eggs ; beat well, and fTpur in half cupful of milk ; add enough flour to make a dough that can be handled, sifting 2 tea^ spoonfuls of baking powder with part of the flour. Flour yout hands, and take bits of the dough and shape them into balls between the palms. Throw each ball into a cup of granulated sugar, and shake until the ball is thoroughly coated. Place these balls on a well-greased baking tin, and they will spread out into regulation-sized cookies. Place them on the floor of the oven at f^rst. , Bake them a very pale brown. Pack away at once, between napkins, in a jar or cake box. Run a thin, broad knife under them to loosen them from the pan, and they will not break. They ought to come from Coolde the oven spicy and sparkling, and cracked all over, like Cutter, macaroons. Oatmeal Cookies. — To 1 large coffee cup of cold boiled oatmeal, allow 1 cup of sugar, 1 ciip of white flour, butter the size of an egg, a pinch of salt, 1 teaspoon of. soda, 2 teaspoons of cream of tartar. Roll out thin, and cut out the same as cookies."^ Bake in hot oven, Graham Cookies. — Two cupfuls sugar, 2 cupfuls sour cream, 1 cupful fine flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 egg, pinch of salt, Graham flour sufficient to roll out soft as possible. Dominoes. — Take any preferred rule of cookies. Cut the dough in oblongs to represent dominoes, frost them with white icing when done, and make the dots and dividing lines of melted chocolate to represent dominoes. Children are delighted with these cakes, and they are especially nice for children's parties. Seed Cookies. — One cup of butter, 2 of white sugar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoonful caraway seed, and flour enough to make a stiff paste. Sprinkle the board with sugar, roll out the dough very thin, and cut it in rounds. Bake about 15 minutes. They should be crisp, like an old-fashioned ginger-snap, and will improve with keeping. If you wish them soft, as some people do, keep them in a stone jar in a cold place ; but if you wish them crisp, keep them in a tin box in a per- fectly dry, but not a hot place. liemon Cookies. — One quart of flour, 1 cupful of butter, 1 pint of sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoonftils of cold water, gratted yellow rind of the lemon. They can be rolled in granulated sugar or frosted. 400 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. Water Cookies. — One cupful sugar, one-half cupful butter, 1 cup- ful cold water, 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Spiee, or ila* voring extract to taste. Flour to roll out. Coriander Cookies. — One cup of butter, 3 cups of sugar, 1 cup "loppered" milk or cream, 4 eggs, 7 cups flour, or just enough to stiffen into a rollable paste ; 2 tablespoonfuls coriander seed (ground or beaten), 1 tablespooniiil of soda, dissolved in boiling water. If you use sweet milk, add 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. You may- substitute caraway for the coriander seed. Chocolate Cookies.-^— Beat to a cream half a cupful of butter. Gradually beat into this 1 cupful of sugar, add a little salt, a little cinnamon and 2 ounces of melted chocolate. Now add 1 well-beaten egg and a half teaspooi^ful of so^ dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, add 2y^ cups of flour, roll thin and bake in a quick oven. Peanut Cookies. — Cream tablespoon of butter, 2 table^oons of sugar, 1 egg, one-half cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of baking pow- der, 1 saltspoon of salt, 2. tablespoons of milk; add 1 pint of peanuts, shelled and chopped fine. Drop by. teaspoonful on the buttered sheets. Place one-half a nut on top of each and bake in a slow oven 12 or 15 minutes. Date Cookieis. — One large cup of dates, stoned and cut in small pieces, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, a little salt, two-thirds of a cup of butter or . lard, or half of each, little cinnamon and nutmeg, one-half tea- spoon of vanilla, 2 cups of flour sifted together with 1 teaspoon of soda and 2 of cream of tartar ; then add one-half cup of sweet milk or water ; use more flour if needed, roll quite thin and bake in rather quick oven. . Pruit Cookies.— rOne egg, 1 cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two- thirds of a cup of sweet milk, 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 teaspoon cream of tartar, one-half teaspoon saleratus, 1 teaspoon each of cin- namon, clove and nutmeg, little salt, 1 cup chopped raisins, enough flour to make considerably stifier than cake ; drop on a buttered tin, spread out a little, bake quickly. Very nice. , ^ Frosted Cookies. — One-half cupful butter, 1 cupful sugar, 2 eggs, omitting 1 white, one-l^alf teaspoon soda, 1 cupful sweet milk and water, 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Plavor to suit. One teaspoon- ful baking powder can be used instead of cream of tartar and so<]«. Flour eufiiiciept to roll out. Sift the baking powder with some »f the COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 401 flour. 'Bake, and when cool frost with the remaining white of an egg beaten to a froth and stirred stiff with powdered sugar. Gingerbreads. Yolks of eggs are very nice added to gingerbread, and where they are left over from other cakes and frostings, they can be added with great advantage to gingerbread. Fruits of all kinds, raisins, etc., are also great additions. Ginger can be modified by the addition of other spices, or omitted, and cinnamon or other spices used instead. Spongre Gingerbread. — One cupful sugar, 1 cupful of nlolasses, 1 cupful butter, or butter and lard, 1 cupful of sour milk, 4 eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, 1 cupful of raisins, if wished, 4 cupfuls of flour, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one-half teaspoonful salt. In place of sour milk and soda, sweet milk and baking powder or cream of tartar and soda may be used. Spongre Gingerbread. — II. One pint of molasses, 1 dessertspoon fif soda, 1 teaspoon of ginger, 4 large cooking spoons of shortening melted (I use half lard and half butter). Beat the soda and ginger into the molasses, and then.the shortening, and a little salt ; then add one-half pint scant of hot water, flour to roll, make about as thick as doughnuts, and roll about as thin. Crease like cookies, cut in squares about 4 or 5 inches, and bake in a hot oven. A tempting cake for the ladies to try. Cream Gingerbread. — Mix a cup of New Orleans molasses, 1 of sour cream, 2 of flour, half a cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, 2 tablespoonfuls or more of ginger. If you have no sour cream, use half a cup of lard or beef drippings and butter mixedj and half a cupful of sweet milk and baking powder instead of soda. Cream Gingerbread. — II. One cup of sour cream, 1 teaspoon o/ soda dissolved in the cream, 1 cup of molasses, 1 teaspoon of ginger, -1 teaspoon of salt, 2% cups of flour. Maple Molasses Gingerbread. — One cupful of boiling water, a piece of butter the size, of an egg, 1 cupful of maple molasses, one- half teaspoonful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of ginger, 2 cupfuls of flour. Common molasses may be substituted for the maple molMSM, but the flavor will not be the same. COOK— 36 402 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. Poverty Gingerbread. — Three tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1^ tablespoonfuls of butter or fried pork fat, 1 teaspoonful of ginger, 1 teaspoon of soda, a little salt ; put into a teacup and fill the cup with best molasses (Porto Rico, I use) ; then add flour to make not very stiff; makes 1 good-sized cake. This rule is 50 years old, and has 'always given satisfaction. Date Gingerbread. — One cup of sugar, half cup of butter, half cup of milk, 2 eggs, a teaspoon of cream of tartar, half teaspoon of soda, a tablespoon of ginger, a pinch of mustard and 2 scant cups of flour, 1 lafge cup of chopped dates ; bake about 20 minutes. Fruit GingerT>read.-^Two cupfuls unsifted flour, 1 cupful coffee sugar, 1 cupful molasses^ half cupful butter, one-quarter cupful sour cream or milk,^ 3 eggs, half pound chopped raisins, half pound currants, 1 level teaspoonful soda, 1 tablespoonful ginger, half teaspoonful cloves. Cream the butter and sugar, warm the molasses and add them together with the beaten yolks, then the soda dissolved in the milk, the flour, spice, and lastly the beaten whites. Dredge the fruit with flour and add. Beat all well. Bake in two loaves. This will keep a long time. Old-fiashioned Gingerbread. — Cream a cupful of good butter and add to it gradually 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar. When as light as possible, add a teaspoonful of ginger, a cupful of milk in which three* quarters of a teaspoonful of soda has been dissolved, and then 4 cup- fuls of sifted flour, adding it gradually. Butter a large baking tin thoroughly, spread the batter very thin, and bake brown in a mod- erate oven. Cut these while quite hot into squares, and take them from the pan. ' ■ Soft Gingerbread.- — One cup of molasses, 1 cup of boiling water, 1 tablespoon of butter or lard in the hot water, half teaspoon of soda,'half teaspoon of ginger, flour enough to make a batter as thin as griddle cakes. Ginger Layer Cake.— One cupful njolasses, 2 egg yolks, three- quarters teaspoonful -soda dissolved in 1 cup boiling water. Butter the size of an egg, 1 teaspoonful giqger, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, half teaspoonful allspice. Bake in layers, and put together with frosting made from the whites of the eggs. Card Gingerbread. — One-half cup of butter, one-half cup of sour milk, 1 cup of brown sugar, 1 egg, one-half teaspoonful of soda, 1 COOKIES, GINGERBREAD AND SNAPS. 403 teaspoonful of ginger, one-fourth teaspoonTul of salt. Add one-half tablespoonful of water and 3 scant cups of sifted flour. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar, then the salt and ginger, now the egg well beaten. Dissolve the soda in the water and stir into the sour milk and add to the mixture in the bowl. Beat the flour in grad- ually. Take one-half half teaspoonful cinna- mon, 1 teacupful boiling water. Stir all the ingredients together, adding the water last. Put in a saucepan and let boil until clear, stirring constantly. Straining is an improvement. 408 PUDDINGS. Caramel Sauce. — Put half cup of sugar in 1 pan, stir over fire till" melted and light brown, add half cup boiling water and simmer 10 minutes. Flavor with lemon, vanilla or rose-water. ^ Plain Cornstarch Sauce. — One cupful of sugar, 1 tablespoonful cornstarch, half cupful butter, 1 teaspoonful vaniila, 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. Stir together. Add boiling water until the required consistency; stirring constantly; half teaspoonful cinnamon, and half teaspoonful grated nutmeg may be used in place of lemon and vanilla. Egg Sauce. — Tivo tablespoonfuls cornstarch ; 1 large cupful sugar ; 2 eggs, beaten separately; pinch of salt; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 quart boiling water. Stir together, reserving the whites of the eggs. Cook until thickened. Beat the eggs to a froth, and stir through the sauce. Nice for steamed puddings. Foaming' Sauce. — Two-thirds of a cup of sugar, 1 egg ; beat to- gether very light with half a wineglass of sherry wine. Just before sending to the table add half a cup of boiling milk. For all kinds of puddings, very nice. Boiling water may be used instead of milk. Wine Sauce. — One cupful of butter, 2 of powdered sugar, half a cupful of wine. Add the sugar gradually, and when very light add the wine, which has been made hot, a little at a time. Place the bowl in a basin bf hot water and stir for 2 minutes. The sauce should be smooth and foamy. Brandy Sauce. — One quart of boiling milk and water, 1 =^ table- spoonfuls of cornstarch wet with cold water ; stir it in the milk and water, boil 5 minutes, add 1 cup of granulated sugar, a little salt, tablespoonful of butter, juice of lemon, wineglass of brandy. licmonSauce. — One cupful sugar, half cupful butter, 1 egg, well beaten; 1 lemon, juice and grated rind; 1 cupful boiling water. Cream the butter and sugar together, add the other ingredients and beat, then stir in the boiling water. Put in a tin pail and keep hot over steam. Niqe for steamed puddings or dumplings. PuddiQgs. Ancestral English Plum Pudding. — One pound of raisins, stoned ; 1 pound currants, washed ; 1 pound chopped suet, rubbed with 4 tablespoonfuls of flour ; 1 pound sugar ; 1 pound bread crumbs ; half pound blanched almonds, chopped ; 1 ounce grated nutmeg ; 1 tablespoonful salt; 2 ounces citron, chopped ; 1 ounce Iwnon peel, PUDDINGS. 40» 9liredd«d ; 1 ounce orange peel, shredded. Mix these ingredients. It will be a saving of time to prepare this a day or two beforehand. Cover the bowl air-tight and keep in a cool place. If wine is used in the family, pour over all 1 cupful of sherry wine before putting away. A glass of rosewater may be substituted. When ready to cook the pud- ding, add one-half pound of flour, 8 well-beaten eggs, and sufficient thin sweet cream or rich milk to moisten the mixture sufficiently. Boil or steam 6 or 8 hours. Serve hot with vanilla sauce, hard sauce, wine or brandy sauce. English Plum Padding. — Two pounds currants, 2 pounds stoned- chopped raisins, 1 pound chopped suet, 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound sifted flour, half pound chopped citron, half pound fine bread crumbs, 1 large cupful molasses, 1 tablespoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, half teaspoonful cloves, 3 grated nutmegs, 2 tablespoonfuls baking powder,- 8 eggs, juice of 3 lemons, 1 cupful of brandy. One wine glass of rosewater may be used in place of the brandy, or it may be entirely omitted. Mix the flour, sugar and spices and molasses, then add the well-beaten eggs, next the suet and juice of lemons, then the fruit ; mix well ; next add the 2 tablespoonfuls of baking powder and the brandy, the mixture to be quite stiff. If there is not sufficient moisture, use a little rich, sweet milk to thin it. Then put in a well- greased mould or a large tin pail, keep covered tightly, steam 10 hours ; as the water evaporates add more ; it is very excellent, having been used in one family more than 50 years. Thanksgiving Pudding. — Twelve crackers rolled and soaked over night in 2 quarts of milk. In the morning add 4 well-beaten eggs, 1 cup of molasses, 1 pound boiled and seeded Sraisins, half pound sliced citron (half pound of currants may be substituted for the citron), 1 teaspoonful salt, 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful grated nutmeg, half teaspoonful cloves, 1 tablespoonful butter. Bake slowly 4 hours in buttered pudding dish. Sauce. — Beat whites of 4 eggs light, but not stiff, add 2 cups of powdered sugar' and 2 small teaspoons of vanilla. Turn over this 2 cups of boiling milk. Lemon juice is nice if vanilla is disliked. Beehive Sauce may used, or Hard Sauce, No. I. Bread and Fruit Pudding. — Butter stale slices of bread ; lay in pudding dish alternately with canned cherries or berries, or stewed «pples ;. bake half an hour ; serve with sauce, like cottage pudding. 410 PUDDINGS. Let the fruit form the top layer. Canned fruit of any kind is nice- for this. Boly-Poly Padding. — One pint of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, three-quarters cup of milk. Sift the dry ingredients together, chop in the butter, stir in the milk till stiff enough to roll out, roll out in a square, spread with butter and jelly or jam of any kind, roll it up and steam half aii hour. Serve with lemon or vanilla sauce. ' Whortleberry Pudding'. — Take a pint of milk, 4 eggs, well beatenj 12 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir them well together, then add 3 quarts of berries. Flour a cloth, tie the pudding in it very close, and boil it 2)^ hours. Serve with hard sauce. ' Strawberry Pudding. — 1 pint of milk, 3^ cups of flour, 3 eggs, half teaspoonful salt, 1 tablespoonful butter, melted, 2 heaping tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, 1 pint of strawberries, Beat the eggs, whites and yolks together, until light, then add the milk, then the flour, and beat until smooth. Then add the butter, melted, salt and baking powder. Drain the berries, dredge them with flour. Stir them into the pudding and turn into a greased pudding mould. Cover and stand in a pot of boiling water and boil continuously for 3 hours. If the water evaporates in the pot replenish with boiling. Serve with butter, -or any preferred sauce. Indian Pudding, Baked. — Scald 1 quart of milk ; thicken when partly cool with 1 cup of Indian corn-meal, 2 beaten eggs, 1 table- spoonful wheat flour, 1 cup of molasses or 1 cup of sugar (molasses is best). Salt and ginger to taste. Turn over it inthe pudding dish 1 cup of cold milk. Do not stir it afterward. Bake slowly 2 or 8 hours. .^ Plain Batter Pudding. — One cup of sour milk or cream, half cup of molasses, 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 2^ cupfuls flour, half teaspoonful salt, 2 even teaspoonfuls of soda dissolved in hot water. Mix molasses and butter together, and beat until very light. Stir in the cream or milk, and salt ; make a hole in the flour, pour in the mixture. Stir down the flour gradually until it is a smooth bat- ter. Beat in the soda water thoroughly.and boil at once in a buttered mould, leaving room to swell. It should be done in IJ^ hours. Eat hot with a good sauce. Raisins or currants may be added. Cherries or gooseberries dried in sugar may be used instead of raisins. PUDDINGS. 411 Blueberry Batter Pudding. — Two cupfuls of milk, half cupful »f molasses, 2 eggs, 6 cupfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 1 quart of blueberries, 1 heaping teaspoonful of soda stirred in the molasses. Wash and drain the blueberries and roll them in part of the flour. Stir together thoroughly and steam 3 hours. Serve with a hot lemon or vanilla sauce, or a butter sauce. Graham Batter Pudding. — One cupful of sweet millr, 1 cupful of sour milk, 1 cupful of molasses with 1 teaspoonfiil of soda stirred in it, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful of salt. Thicken with Graham flour and add 2 cupfuls of well-washed English curraiits. Steam 3 hours and serve with hot sour sauce. Cottage Pudding, Baked. — One egg, 1 cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of inilk, 1 pint of flour, 1 tablespoonful of butter, a pinch of salt, 2 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half cup of dried currants or chopped raisins ; stir all together, and bake in an oblong bread pan. Cut in square pieces, artd serve with a hot milk sauce, or any other preferred one. Half teaspoonful of soda, and 1 teaspoonful of cream, of tartar, may be used in place of baking powder. Cottage Pudding, Steamed. — Use the above rule. Pour into a quart basin and steam one hour. Serve with a hot sauce. One cup , sour milk, and 1 teaspoonful of soda, may be used in place of sweet milk and baking powder. i_ Bread Pudding. — One pint of milk, 1 cup of stale bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 1 teaspoon of flavoring, 1 egg. Warm the milk. Butter the dish and put in the crumbs. When the milk has cooled a little, add the sugar, flaTOring, and well-beaten egg. Pour it over the crumbs. Let it soak half an hour. Bake in a hot oven 30 minutes, or untjl golden brown. Fruit Bread Pudding. — Add to the above quantities half cup of raisins (stoned), half cup of currants, and a Small piece of citron, cut in narrow strips. Butter the dish, make a pattern on the bottom with "the fruit, then carefully cover it with half the crumbs. Pour over a little of the custard, then the rest of the crumbs, and all the custard. When baked, slip a knife around the edge and turn it out. Meringue Bread Pudding.— Beat the yolks of 4 eggs light; add gradually a cap of granulated sugar, beating all the while, and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix apint of bread crumbs with a quart of milk ; pour tlpiis on the eggs and sugar. Mix well, and bake in a 412 PUDDINGS. moderate oven until stiff When done, make a meringue of the whites of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Heap on the pudding, and brown in a quick oven. When using cake crumbs, use the yolks of 2 eggs, and one-half ci^p of granulated sugar. Queen'5 Pudding. — One pint fine bread crumbs, 1 quart of milk, 1 cupful sugar, 4 egg yolks, well beaten ; grated rind of 1 lemon, butter size of an egg. Do not let it bake until watery. Whip the whites' of the eggs, with 1 cup sugar, to a stiff froth; add to this the juice of a lemon. Spread over the pudding a layer of jelly or sweet- meats, spread the whites of the eggs over this, put in the oven and brown. Serve cold. Sweet Cream, flavored with lemon, is nice to serve with it, but it is very nice withbuft sauce. Aunt Mary's Puddlngp. — 'Half fill a pudding dish with slices of baker's bread, well-buttered. Pour over the whole a custard made in the proportion of 1 egg to 1 pint of milk, Sweeten and flavor it to taste. Let stand a few minutes before baking, with a weight on the bread to keep, it under the milk. Bake. 'This may be varied by spreading each slice of bread with jam or jelly liberalfy, or even by scattering raisins between them before pouring the custard over. Cake that is dry may be used, or both cake and bread. Steam or boil. Quick Cracker Pudding. — Break fine half a dozen coii^on crackers, and pour enough boiling water over them to cover, 1 quart of milk, 3 eggs, three-quarters ciip of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a small piece of butter. Flavor with vanilla. Boil 5 minutes in a farina kettle, instead of baking. One egg may be omitted if they are scarce, and two mpre crackers added. Grandmother's Rice Pudding. — One cup of rice, 2 cupfuls of milk, 2 cupfuls of water, 1 cupful molasses, 1 even teaspoonful salt, one-half nutmeg grated, 1 beaten egg. In mixing use one-half of the milk with molasses, etc., then put in oven to bake. After it has been in the oven one-half to three-quarters of an hour, stir thoroughly, then add the rest of the milk, only stirring slightly at the top so as to form a whey like Indian pudding. Bake about 2 hours in a mod- erate oven. Best to mix in the morning and let stand on the back of the stove until ready to bake to swell the rice ; bakeJn an earthen pudding dish. Danish Tapioca Pudding. — Put into 1}4 pints of cold water half a taeeupful of pearl tapioca and let it soak for half an hour, aft«f PUDDINGS. 41S which boil it until clear and soft, which will take about an hour, stir- ring frequently .while boiling ; add a quarter of a teacupful of sugar, hdf a tumbler of currant jelly and a little salt, steadily stirring until all the jelly is dissolved. Put into a mould and serve cold with cream and sugar. Chocolate Cornstarch Pudding. — One quart of milk, 4 heaping tablespoons of cornstarch, a little salt, bake in double boiler till very thick ; cool so as to cut nice. Sauce. — Dissolve 3 tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate in 1)4 cups of boiling milk; beat 1 egg, one-half cup of sugar, stir on the stove until it thickens about like cream ; use vanilla flavoring. Let the puddingy cool in small moulds, teacups, turn out in saucers and pour the sauce around them. Lemon Cornstarch Pudding. — One tablespoon of cornstarch, 1 teacup of boiling water, 1 egg, sugar to taste, 1 teaspoon of butter, juice and grated rind of a small lemon ; mix the cornstarch with a little cold water, add the boiling water and let it jjoil 10 minutes ; put in the sugar and pour the mixture on the yolk of the egg well beaten ; add the lemon juice and grated rind. Stir again while on the fire, not allowing it to burn. As soon as it becomes thick, re- move it and pour into forms or moulds. Serve with sugar and cream. Boiled Lemon Pudding. — Two cupfuls dried bread crumbs, 1 cupful powdered beef suet; 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 4 eggs, well beaten, 1 rupful sugar, juice and grated rind of 1 lempnf 1 large cupful rtiilk. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk, add the suet, beat eggs and sugar together, and these well into the soaked bread, Td these put the lemon, lastly the flour, beaten in with as few strokes as will suffice to mix up all into a thick batter. Boil 3 hours in a buttered mould. Eat hot with hot sauce,^ny preferred kind. Brown Betty. — I. Butter a dish and put in alternate layers of bread crumbs and sliced apples.. Put butter, sugar and cinnamon on each layer of apples. Cover closely, steam three-quarters of an hour, uncover and brown quickly. Eat with hot sauce or whipped cream. Brown Betty. — II. Take 5 large and tart apples; pare and slice them. Put a layer of apples in a deep pudding dish, then a layer of fine bread crumbs and so on until the apples are used. Put one-half cup of brown sugar and small bits of butter over the top. Grate a little nutniieg over them, turn on a cup of sweet milk. Bake 1 hour until nicely browned. 414 PUDDINGS. Chocolate Pudding. — Add 2 tablespoons of boiling water to 2 ounces of chocolate. Let it melt over the fire ; then add a quart of creamy milk. Half cream is none too rich. Sweeten to taste ; add a little salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Last stir in the well- beaten yolks of 8 eggs. Bake until set; then cover with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten very light, sweetened with powdered sugar and delicately flavored with vanilla. Let the me- ringue brown in a very quick oven. To be eaten cold. Cabinet Pudding. — Beat 4 eggs and mix with 3 teacups of milk and one-half a cup of sug^r; grease a pudding pan; sprinkle the bottom with stoned raisins and cover with a layer of stale sponge cake; pour the custard over this and, steam 1 hour; turn out and serve hot with cream sauce. , . Sweet Potato Pudding. — One pound of sweet potatoes boiled and mashed, one-half cupful of molasses or sugar, 2 well-beaten eggs, 1 large tablespoonful of butter, 1 lemon, juice and grated rind, 1 pint sweet milk. Cream the butter and sugar ; mix with the other ingre- dients, adding the milk last. Beat until light. Bake one-half hour. It can be baked in a pie criist if liked. Serve hot with /lemon sauce, or cold without sauce. ~Pive Minute Pudding. — Two eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder. Break eggs on sugar and beat to a cream ; sift in the flour and baking powder, which should be previously mixed together; pour into a greased tin and bake 6 minutes ; roll up with a layer of any kind of jam. Green Com Pudding. — One pint finely cut green corn, or 1 can of corn, 1 pint of milk, 2 eggs welt beaten,.! tablespoonful butter, 1 small half-cup sugar, 1 teaspoonful salt. Melt the butter ; mix the ingredients. Bake one-half hour in a moderate oven. If the kernels '' of green corn are split before cutting from the ear, it will be fine enough. No sauce. Rhubarb Pudding. — Chop rhubarb very fine ; put in a pudding dish, sprinkle thoroughly with sugar. Make a batter of 1 cup of sour milk, 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of butter, melted, and half tea- spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk ; add flour to make the thick- ness of cake batter, and pour over the rhubarb. Bake, and turn out a plate so that the rhubarb will be 'on top. Serve with cream and sugar. The battel^ may be made of sweet milk and baking powder. BLANC MANGE In making custards or custard pud- dings, the eggs and the sugar should be thoroughly beaten together before any milk or seasoning is added. A custard should never quite reach the boiling point, as it is liable to curdle. Some cooks add a little cornstarch to the cus- tard to prevent curdling or wheying. It also saves in eggs, but others do not like the taste. A double boiler is very much better to use for custards. A boiler custard need not be cpok^ until very thick, as it thickens while cooling. It is well to allow boiled custard to cool before flavoring. Less extract will be needed, and the flavor will be more delicate. When beaten eggs are to be mixed with hot milk, as in making gravies or custards, dip the hot milk into the beaten eggs a spoonful at ^ time, stirring well each time, until the eggs are well thinned, then add both together : this will prevent the eggs from curdling. For all manner of home-made flavoring, see the hints at beginning of Cakes. ' There are so many dainty flavorings that the coarser spices are left for the heavier richer puddings. The juices of various fruits, coffee, tea, and caramel, may be added to the list of flavors. Coffee Flavoring. — ^To flavor 1 quart of custard, take 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of Mocha coffee, ground quite fine and measured after grinding. If possible, the coffee should .have been browned and ground the day it is iised. , Pour the quart of milk boiling hot ovei the coffee, beat the whole thoroiighly for two or three minutes ovei the fire. Remove from stove, cover and let it stand where it will cool; then strain. This gives a Very delicate and delicious flavor. If it is to be used for ice-cream, a mixture of half cream and half milk can be poured over the coffee. 'Caramel Flavoring. — A caramel flavor is very easily made, and is excellent for custards, ice-creams and pudding sauces. Take 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar and 1 of water. Stir theni overthe fire in a saucepan until they begin to turn brown, and 4it» 416 CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. when the mixture is thoroughly melted, and has become a rich golden brown, which will be in 2 or 3 minutes, add the milk of the custard or ice-cream, which it is desired to flavor, and stir the whole over the fire till the caramel has melted evenly into the milk. In the case of a sauce, add a syrup inade with a cup of sugar and a cup of water, and well flavored with a little cinnamon and a lemon peel, and stir until the whole is well mixed. Boiled Custard. — ^^One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3_ tablespoonfuls sugar. Pinch of salt and fl£.vor to suit. Scald the milk, put in the eggs and sugar ; do not boil, but stir until it thickens ; when co^l .enough pour into glasses. If wished richer, 6 eggs may be used to 1 quart, of milk. Baked Custard.— One quart of milk, 4 eggs, 3 tablespobnfuls of sugar. Pinch of salt and flavoring to suit. Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the milk. Pour in a pudding dish. Do not bake too long or the custard will whey. _ Test it by sinking a spoon in it ; as soon as it comes out free from any of the custard it is done. Another egg added will make it richer. It can also be baked in a pudding dish lined with a rich paste, if desired. French Custard. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Beat half cupful sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs together and stir in the milk. Stir orl the fire until thick (a double boiler is best, but a pail in a kettle of boiling water can be used). Flavor with vanilla, coffee or almond. When cold pour in a glass bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff) heap on a large dish and set in the stove to brown, then slip on the custard. Set on ice and serve with sponge cake. French Tapioca Custard. — Five dessertspoonfuls of tapioca, i quart of milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, 1 heaping cup of sugar, a little salt. Soak the tapioca in a pint of cold water 5 hours: Let the milk come to a boil. Add the tapioca. Stir until boiling ho^ then add gradually the yolks of the eggs and sugar. Boil again. Let it cook until thick, but not too long. Pour into a dish and stir gently the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff" froth. Cream Custard. — To 1 quart of cream add 6 eggs, slightly beaten. /Strain the cream and eggs into a double boiler, add 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar and hoil 10 minutes. When nearly cold add flavoring. Caramel i nstard. — Brown half a cup of granfllated sugar (be careful it doe not burn), add 2 tablespoons of water, warm 1 quart CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE, 417 of milk, put browned sugar into it, add half a teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract, beat 6 eggs well and add last Strain into greased bowls ; set bowls in baking pan with water in it and bake about 20 minutes or until you can put a knife in it and draw it out without any of the custard adhering to it. Set in a cold place. Orange Custard. — Four well-beaten eggs, 2 oranges, juice of, and grated rind of 1, 1^^ pints of rich milk, 1 cup of sugar. Beat all thoroughly together, adding the milk last. Stir gently over ^he fire until it thickens. Serve cold in custard cups. Banana Custard. — ^Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch blended in a little cold water, 1 cupful of white sugar, one-third cupful butter. Stir together and pour on gradually 1 quart of boiling water, stirring constantly. Add the yolks of 3 eggs beaten light, and keep ovei- the fire until thick ; when cold add 4 or 5 bananas, sliced fine, put in cups ; beat the whites of the 3 eggs with 3 tablespoons of sugar; add to each cup, and brown. Flavor with either orange or lemon." This mixture can be made the same as lemon pie and meringue' on the top. Blanc Mange. The rules for cooking custards are applicable to Blanc Mange. Blanc Mange. — I. Dissolve 1 ounce of Cox's gelatine in enough warm water to cover it. Stir it into 1 quart of rich milk, or cream and milk mixed. Sweeten with half cupful of sugar. Stir constantly over the fire until it comes to the boiling point. Flavpr with lemon, vanilla or almond. Stir until almost cold. Pour in a mould and put in a cool place or on the ic6 ; it is pretty cooled in cups. Dip the moulds in hot water before pouring in the blanc mange. Very nice served with sweetened cream, whipped cream or soft boiled custard. Blanc Mange. — 11. Make as above and when nearly cold beat in the whipped whites of 3 eggs, and set away to cool. Serve with a custard made of the yolks of the 3 eggs-and 1 pint of milk, sweeten and flavor with the same flavoring used in the blanc mange. Cornstarch Blanc Mange. — One quart of sweet milk, heat part of it on the stove, and with the cold blend 4 tablespoonfuls of corn- starch and half a cupful of sugar. Stir into the boiling milk smoothly, keeping over the fire until it thickens. Flavor to suit. Take frotti the stove and stir in the stiffly beaten whites of 3 eggs. Serve with A custard made of the 3 egg yolks and 1 pint of milk. If eg£^ ire COOK— 27 418 CUSTARDS AND BLANC MANGE. scarce, use one more tablespoonful of cornstarch and stir into the blanc mange 1 whole egg stiffly beaten. Serve with sweetened cream. Chocolate Blanc Mange.^-Cover an ounce of gelatine with water. Boil 1 quart of milk, 4 ounces of chocolate, 1 cupful of sugar, 5 min- utes. Add the gelatine and boil 5 minutes longer, stirring constantly. Flavor with vanilla, and pour into moulds to cool. This dessert may be served with sweetened cream or a rich custard sauce. GbocolateBl&nc Mange. — Four tablespoonfuls cornstarch, 1 quart milk, 2 tablespoonfuls chocolate, 1 teaspoonful vanilla ; boil the milk, wet with cold milk the Cornstarch, etc., and stir into the boiling\milk. Cook 5 minutes and flavor with the vanilla. Serve with sweetened cream. " Banana plane Mange. — Make a white custard as follows : Two tablespoonfuls cornstarch wetted with enough cold water to dissolve it; 1 cup granulated sugar, one-third cup butter; stir together in a pudding mould or earthen dish and pour on enough boiling water to make thick custard ; beat the whites of 3 eggs to snow, sfir into the custard and set it in the oven to bake for 15 minutes or foi the same length of time in a pot of boiling water ; set aside utitil perfectly cold ; then remove the slight crust that will have formed ori the top ; have ready dish in which you are to serve your custard and some fresh, ripe bananas minced finely; mix with the custard and pour into the dish and add a meringue made of the beaten whites of 3 eggs and one-half teacupful pulverized pink sugar. Peaches may be used in- stead of bananas. Khubarb Blanc Mange. — ^Two pounds rhubarb, cut up, 3 pints- water; cook 15 minutes; strain and add 1 cup of sugar or more if desired. Add a little over one-half cup of sago and cook 20 min- utes. Put into moulds and set on ice. Almond Blanc Mange. — Blanch one-half pound of alriionds and rub to a paste with 2 tablespoonfuls of rose water and white sugar, about 1 tablespoonful to 4 or 5 almonds. Mix this paste with 1 pint of milk ; add 1 ounce of gelatine soaked in enough warm milk to cover it. Stir over the fire until thoroughly dissolved, then add an- other pint of milk ; let it boil 4jp, strain, stir until partly cool, then pour in cups and put in a cold place to form. Serve with whipped cream or sweetened cream. L/.«5^ 'Siii ARI2TTES A JELLY or a Bavarian cream or any dish stiffened by gelatine, must not be moved while it is cooling. Mov- ing does no harm when it is in a liquid state, but if it is moved when it is half congealed a crack will result when it is finally turned out of the dish. The same result will follow if it is jarred when removing from the moilldj and jarring and shaking is often resorted to in order to hasten its removal. The glutinous nature of gelatine causes it to stick to the mould, and it requires a little heat to melt it slightly before it will come out of the mould in the clear-cut form which it should have. The steam of the tea-kettle, so often resorted to, gives too much heat, and causes the form to be blurred in outline when it is turned out. The best method is to dip the mould into water as hot as the hand will bear comfortably for about half a minute, if it is a tin mould ; if earthen, for 2 or 3 minutes. While it is immersed in the water press the jelly around the edge of the mould to loosen it at the sides. Invert over it the platter or dish on which it is to be turned out and turn the two over together. If it fails to come out, wrap a hot cloth around it for a moment. It sometimes requires a little time to accomplish this perfectly, but the clear-cut outlines of the jelly or cream will repay the trouble. Whipped Cream. — This is very often served in connection with something else, but makes a delicious dessert by itself, or with fancy cakes. The first requisite is to have, the cream icy-cold, and an hour or so before using put the large earthen bowl in which it is to be whipped, and the egg-beater (Dover egg-beater is good), where they will get perfectly cold. The bowl should have a round bottom. Cream will whip to 3 times its original bulk, if it is the right quality with which to start. Very thin cream will not whip at all. A very thick cream will not increase as much in bulk, besides there is danger of butter coming. If it is very thick, dilute it with nearly the same amount of fresh sweet milk. Medium cream is the best. It is well 419 420 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. to set the bowl in a pan of cold water while beating. Whip it to a stiff froth. Do not skim off the froth asfast as it forms, as it will be liable to fall, but whip until all is Stiff. About 5 minutes is usually sufficient. Beat in sugar in the proportion of an even cupful of pow- dered sugar to a pint of the unwhipped cream. The juice of half a lemon is a delicious iiavoring. In this f6rm it is also delicious for Charlotte-russe. If wished firmer, the beaten whites of 2 eggs can be whipped in. In this way it is not apt to fall. It should not be pre- pared until about an hour before dinner. Set on ice. Serve in fancy glasses a,nd pass around assorted cakes. liemon Cream. — Dissolve 2 tablespoons cornstarch in a little \^ater; add the juice and grated rind of a lemon, and 1 cup of sugar; on this pour 2)^ cups of hot water; add the beaten yolks of 2 egg? and 1 whole egg; cook in double boiler until it thickens like custard, stirring constantly; when cool frost with 2 whites and brown in oven. To be eaten with spongecake, IJemon Sponge. — ^Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in a pint of warm v/ater, strain and add the juice of 3 lemons, and 1 orange; one cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir over a slow fire until it jllist boils and turn into a mould. Can be made by using both yolks' and whites of 2 eggs, but is paler in color. Orange Creani. — One orange, juice and grated rind; 1 pint of thin sweet cream ; 1 cupful of white sugar ; 4 yolks of eggs. Stir ; heat the cream to boiling and pour in ; stjr until perfectly cold ; whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and spread oyer the top. Beat into this 1 tablespoonful of sugar. It is pretty served in small glasses with the frosting over each one. Cocoanut Cream. — Whip 1 pint of cream to a stiff froth. Have ready three-quarters of a box of gelatine which has been soaked in 1 cup of milk for half an hour, and the milk heated until the gelatine is dissolved. Strain, and when cool add it to the cream with 1 cup of sugar and 2 cups of cocoanut. Either the desiiccated cocoanut or the fresh nut grated can be used. Put the cream into a mould and set it on ice or in a very cold place. Coifee Cream. — Soak half a bo^ of gelatine for 2 hours in a cup. ful of cold water. Put half a cupful of the best coffee, finely ground^ in a pint of boiling milk, and let it stand 5 minutes. Then straia the milk through a thick cloth upon a cupful of sugar, and add to it CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 421 the welUbeaten yolks of 4 eggs. Stir the whole over the fire until it is creamy, but not thick ; remove from the heat and add the gelatine ; stir the latter well to be sure that all is dissolved, and pour the cream through a soup strainer if it seems at all lumpy. Set away in a cool place, and when it is cold and begins to stiffen, stir briskly into it a pint of whipped cream and turn into a wet mould. This dessert re- quires no sauce, and is delicious to those who like coffee ; moreover it is quite inexpensive, a tea-cupfiil of cream being sufficient to make a pint of whip. Chocolate Cream. — I. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce pf gelatine in half a pint of hot water, add 1 cupful of white sugar, strain through a sieve. Whip 1 pint of sweet cream. Set- on ice while you melt 3 ounces of chocolate. Add chocolate to the gelatine, when it begins to stiffen a little add the whipped cream. Pour all into a mould, and set on ice until firm. Serve with or without a rich custard. Chocolate Cream. — II. Take a pint of milk and 3 ounces of chocolate. Boil this with 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar until thoroughly mixed, then remove from the fire and add 4 eggs beaten light. Pour into a cold bowl to cool, and when cold, add a pint of cream beaten stiff, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. ' Blackberry Cream. — To 1 pint of blackberries add 1 pint of water. Boil until tendet, and then add 1 cup of sugar, 4 tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch, a pinch of salt. Stir until it boils. Flavor to taste. To be eaten WiLh cream and sugar- Raspberries can be made in the same manner. Strawberry Chocolate Cream. — Soak one-third of a box of Cox's gelatine in one-third cup of cold water, pour on a third of a cup pf boiling water, add 1 cup of sugar, and 1 pint of perfectly ripe straw- berries. Set in pan of ice-water to cool j when cool and before it hardens add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Line a pretty dish with lady fingers, and when gelatine is hard turn into dish and serve .with whipped cream. Vanilla Snow i:ggs. — Beat stiff the whites of 6 eggs. Have on the fire a pint of milk sweetened and flavored with vanilla. M^hea it boils^drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoonfuls, and as soon as they become formed dip them out. Allow milk in saucepan to cool a little, then stir in yolks of the eggs slowly. When thick pour around the snowed eggs and serve cold. 422 CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. Cream Charlotte Busse. — ^This requires a lining of cake arranged in a bowl, a mould, or in anjr sort of dish preferred. Sponge cake, baked thin and divided when cold into two layers of equal thickness by a long, sharp knife, is considfred most attractive, but pieces of any plain cake cut half an inch thick, or divided lady fingers, may be used to line the dish or mould. Charlptitps are made with or without tops, according to taste or convenience; and when the supply of cake is limited, stiff paper may be buttered and laid in the bottom of the mould, cake being placed at the sides. Whatever cake is cut off in trimming the forms to shape, may be crumbled and sprinkled over the bottom. Fill the forms with whipped cream seasoned with 4 table- spoonfuls of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of some favorite^ extract. To make sure that the whipped cream will be stiff, stir into it lightly, but thoroughly, with a spoon, the stiffly beaten whites of 2 eggs to each pint of the cream. Arrange the tops of the forms neatly, or cover them with a layer of cake and set them on ice. Charlotte Busse. — One pint of whipped cream, the whites of 2 eggs, beaten. Dissolved tablespoonfuls of gelatine in 1 cup of cojd water, sweeten with powdered sugar to suit the taste, and flavor with" vanilla. Take a sponge cake and cut off all the crust, and divide the cake in twd-inch pieces. Lay them in a large glass dish and turn the Charlotte russe over them. Make this at night, to be served the next day. Stir it all together well before turning it on the cake. Cool on ice, if possible. If in a mould, it can be turned out in shape; or it can be moulded in a handsome glass dish and served in the same. Cocoanut grated over the top is an improvement. Hard Times Charlotte Busse.— One and one-half pints sweet milk. Set on fire to boil. Mix together in a dish the following arti- cles : One-half large cupful sugar, 1 beaten egg, 1 heaped tablespoon- fill cornstarch, one-half small cupful of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, a pinch of salt. Blend smoothly. Pour gradually into the boiling milk. Let simmer a few ihoments, stirring all the time. In the meantime partly fill a large fruit dish with any kind or kinds of stale cake cut in pieces about an inch square. When the cream is nearly cold pour over the cake. Do this a few minutes before setting on the table, so that it will be cold when served. Dish out in saucers. If eggs are scarce, omit, and use an extra heaped tablespoonful of. cornstarch. Flavor the cream with lemon or vanilla. CREAMS AND CHARLOTTES. 423 Orange Charlotte Busse. — One pint sweet cream, half box gel- atine, 1 cupful pulverized sugar, half cupful orange juice, or the juice «f 3 large oranges. Soak the gelatine one hour in water enough to cover, then add a little boiling water to dissolve it. Whip the cream. Stir in the dissolved gelatine lightly, but thoroughly, then the sugar and the orange juice, a little at a time. Line a mould with slices of sponge cake and pour in the cream. Set in a cold place to congeal. This and many others of these fancy dishes are better for being made the day before, as by standing they grow firm. On this account they are desirable for Sunday desserts, or for elaborate dinners where there are many dishes that must be prepared- the same day. liemon Charlotte Busse. — Prepare precisely as above, substi- tuting the juice of 2 large or 3 small lemons in place of the orange juice, and adding one-half cupful more of sugar. Banana Charlotte Busse. — Line the sides of a mould with sliced sponge cake and the bottom with sliced bananas ; sprinkle over them a little orange juice, and dust with powdered sugar; whip a pint of cream stiffly with a tablespoonful of sugar and flavor slightly with a few drops of the orange juice. Set on ice until Served. The filling may be of some of the creams given before, in which case it can be turned out of the mould in nice shape. With the whipped cream it is apt to break. Thdieaten white of an egg will help make the whipped cream firmer. Snow Charlotte Busse. — Lay a few slices of stale cake that . has been pipped quickly in milk on a dish in which it can be served. Beat stiff the whites of 4 eggs ; add a quarter pound of bleached and finely chopped almonds and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; Pour over the cake slices and bake 10 minutes, but do not brown. Burnt Almond Charlotte Busse. — One cupful of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a box of gelatine soaked 2 hours in half a cupful of water, 3 tablespoonfuls white sugar, 1 ^ cupfuls of milk, 1 cupful of sugar, 2 eggs, yolks and whites separate, 1 quart of sweet cream. Put the 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar in a sauce. LITTLE oatmeal, Graham mush or other cereal may be converted into a dessert by adding^^ugar, milk and eggs in the desired amount, using 1 egg to a cup of milk and any flavoring desired, and baking until the custard sets. It may then, be served with cream or with pudding sauce. Cordials are excellent for flavoring jellies and creams. They give a particularly pleasant and delicate flavor. Maraschino, which has' the flavor Df bitter cherry, is n\uch used. Curacao, which tastes of orange peel, and Noyau, which has the flavor of peach kernels, are good flavoring cordials. ' Rice Meringue. — Boil half a teacupful of rice half an hour in water; drain wafer off, pour in half a pint of milk and a tablespoonful of butter. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs and half a cupful of sugar togethfer until light, mix with the ricej add the grated rind of 1 lemon and 2 tablespoonfuls of juice; mix well together; set custard cups in a dripping-pan, fill them two-thirds full with the mixture, pour hot water in the dripping-pan and cook 15 minutes" in a hot oven. Beat the whites of the eggs a few minutes, add 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and beat again until stiff; fill each cup with the meringue, set in the oven and brown lightly. - Serve cold in the cups. ' Tipsy Pudding. — Haifa dozen little sponge cakes, 1 dozen mac- aroons. Make a thick custard with yolks of 3 eggs, 2 Teaspoonfuls of cornstarch and two-thirds of a pint of milk, sugar to taste. Boil the milk, mix the cornstarch with a little of it (milk) cold, stir into the hot milk ; when a little cool, add the beaten yolks and sugar, flavor to taste, and' set to cool. Lay the sponge cakes in a glass disk, moisten with a wine glass of wine, sprinkle with sugar. Spread a layer of raspberry jam over this, then the macaroons, and pour the cold custard over. Heap the whites of the eggs, well beaten and a little sweetened over all. Place near ice to cool. Lemon Fluff. — Sweeten 1 pint of milk and flavor with vanilla ; beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stiff froth ; heat the milk, and when it boils take a tablespoon of the beaten whites and put it carefully on the milk ; turn it over once, take out with a spoon or skimmer, and 424 DESSERTS. 4'2^ put it on a sieve to drain ; continue this till all the egg is used up. Now strain the milk and make it into a rich custard, using the yolks of the 7 eggs. When cold put pieces of egg whites on top and serve. Chocolate Custard. — One quart of milk, put over tJie fire in a double boiler. When it reaches boiling point, add 1 cupful sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls grated chocolate. Boil gently 5 minutes ; add beaten yolks of 6 eggs, gradually stirring all the time. Do not let boil. As soon as thickened, remove from fire. When nearly cold flavor with vanilla to taste. Beat briskly 1 minute ; pour into custard cups ; whip the whites to a froth with powdered sugar and heap some upon each cup. Almond Blanc Mange. — Boil together 1 quart of milk, 4 table- spoonfuls each of cornstarch and sugar. When thick stir into it 30 blanched and split almonds and mould. Serve with cream and sugar. Lemon Bice. — Take 1 cupful of rice, cover with boiling water and let simmer on the back of the stove till thoroughly done ; shake, do not stir, taking care to keep the grains nice and whole. Add the rind of 1 lemon and juice of 2; two scant cups of sugar.. Set in the oven until the sugar is dissolved (which only takes a minute), then put in a wet mould to cpol. Serve with sweetened cream. Bice with Fig Sauce. — Soak a cup of rice in 1 5^ cups of water for an- hour ; then add a cup of milk, turn into an earthen dish and place in a steam cooker and steam for an hour. Stir occasionally with a fork the first 16 minutes. Fi£ Saiice. — Carefully look over, wash and cut fine enough good figs,fo make a cupful. Stew in a pint of water, to which has been added a tableSpoonful of sugar, until they are 1 homogeneous mass. Put a spoonful of the hot fig sauce on each dish of rice when serving. Nut Cream. — Put 1 pint of milk in a saucepan over the fire. Moisten 2 tablespoonfuls of starch in a little cold milk ; add to hot milk ; cook until thick ; add 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar and a teaspoon- ful of rosewater, and pour it into the centre of 6 breakfast plates. Cover the top with chopped almonds, and put 1 drop of orange blos- som water on each. When cold, serve. Coffee Cup Cfustard. — Mix well 8 egg yolks with 8 ounces of sugar ; dilute with 6 custard cups of boiling milk and a good cupful 426 DESSERTS. of black cofifee; pass through a fine strainer, fill the cups and put them in a low pan with boiling water to half their height; take oft" the froth that may rise to the surface, cover the pan and let simmer gently for 20 minutes. When the custard is well set, let cool in the water, drain, wipe the cups and serve cold. Coffee Jelly, with Sauce.— ^Two cupfuls clear, strong coffee ; 1 cupful of sugar, 1 cupful of boiling water, one-half cupful cold water, one-half box of gelatine. Soak the gelatine in the cold water an hour ; stir in sugar, and pour over it the boiling water and hot coffee. Strain, and pour in a mould. When cold turn into a glass dish, and serve with a foaming sauce made as follows : Foaming ,S««c^.— One-half cupful boiling milk ; add 2 tablespobtf- fuls sugar mixed with yolk of 1 egg. Stir until it thickens some ; remove from fire and add the well-beaten white, with 2 tablespoonfuls Sugar and grated rind of 1 lemon. ; ^, Meringues. — -Whisk the whites of 4 eggs to high froth, t^ip stir into it one-half pound finely powdered sugar; flavor with royal ex- tract vanilla or lemon, repeat whisking until it will lie in a heap, then lay mixture on letter paper, in the shape of half an egg, moulding it with a spoon, laying each about half an inch apart. Then place paper, containing meringues on piepe of hard wood, put them into quick oven, do not .close it, watch them; when they begin to have yellow appearance, take out. Remove paper carefully from wood, let them cool for 2 or 3 minutes, then slip thin kniie very carefully under one, turn it into your left hand, take another from the paper in the same way, join 2 sides which were next the paper together. The soft inside may be taken out with handle of small spoon, the shells filled with jelly, jam, or cream, then joined together as above, cement- ing them with some of the mixture. Pumpkin Custard. — Hubbard squash is richer and sweeter than pumpkin, and any left from dinner can be used for the custards. 1 quart of hot milk, a large cupful of strained squash, a teaspoonful of butter and 1 of salt, a cupful of sugar in which half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and a pinch of ginger have been mixed, and 3 eggs, beaten light. Mix squash and milk, add ^he other ingredients, the eggs last, . DESSERTS. 427 and pour into custard cups, which must be set in a pan of hot water. Bake till firm, about half an hour, testing with a knife blade. If it comes out clean, they are done. Serve icy cold. Plum Puddingy Glace. — This is the most agreeable way of serv- ing plum pudding in summer. An^ce-cream may be used for it, the best being a,.cream without flavor, and colored a light chocolate color. Cut plum pudding or rich fruit cake in slices, dip them in brandy and cut or break in tiny pieces. After the cream is, frozen, stir in the plum pudding and pack. This pudding is sometimes served with a spoonful of whipped cream laid on each slice, and on the cream one or two candied cherries. !Lemoii Honej. — Lemon honey is a queer, old-fashioned dessert, which is easily made and delicious for a summer night country dinner. Stir the yolks of 6 eggs and the whites of 4 eggs into, a pouiid of granulated sugar. Add the juice of 3 lemons and the grated rinds of 2, and a scant 2 ounces of butter. Cook over a slow fire, stirring constantly, and when the mass is thick and clear like honey, pour it into custard cups and set in the ice-box. If you wish to make this dessert a trifle more elaborate, add a meringue to each cup be- fore setting away to cool. It is also used as a cake filling. Custard Pudding. — Boil 1 quart of milk. Moisten 2 tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch into a little cold milk and stirwith the boiling milk. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs and half a. cup of sugar together and add to the milk. Take from the fire, flavor with a tablespoonful of Vanilla, and pour into a pudding dish. Beat the whites of the eggs to a- stiff froth, add 3 teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, heap on top of the pudding, and set in the oven for 5 minutes. Set on ice until very cold and serve. Vermicelli Dessert. — Put on 1 pint of milk with 2 ounces of desiccated cocoanut, and let it get quite hot, then add one-quarter pound of vermicelli ; let this cook till tender. Now add 2 ounces of well-washed and picked sultanas, put the mixture into a glass dish, pour over it 1 cup of cream, and sprinkle the whole over with bleached and chopped pistachio nuts, v ' - Pistacbe Cakes. — Perfectly delicious for afternoon tea or for a " high tea," are pistache cakes. Beat up 5 ounces each of butter and fine sugar, 6 ounces of flour, and 3 eggs well beaten, adding the flour and eggs alternately. Bake this mixture in a shallow tin. When 4as CSSSBRTd. quite cold, cut ft Into roands with aprfcot or peach marmalftdej;*!^ pile several each above the other. Cover the last layer with a little of the marmalade, and then sprinkle very thickly with blanched pis> tachio nuts. Fill the centre with whipped cream, strew it with nuts, and garnish the heap with little heaps of the cream and nuts, "My Own" Pudding'. — Set 1 quart of milk to boil ; while it is heating mix 1 cup of cornstarch with enough cold water to form it into a thick batter ; add to this 1 cup of sugar and the yolks of i eggs ; take the milk from the fire and stir into it eggs, cornstarch and sugar ; beat all together a few minutes, or long enough only to cook the eggs. Then take out the pudding, and while hot put over it a layer of jam or jelly. Have the whites of the eggs bekten light with 1 cup of fine sugar ; put this over the jam and brown in the oven. Amber Pndding. — Six large apples, 3 ounces of moist sugar, 1 lemon, 2 ounces of butter, 3 eggs, puff paste, a few preserved cherries ; peel, cote and slice the apples ; place them in a stewpan with the but- ter, sugar and lemon rind and let them stew slowly until tender ; then rub them through a fine sieve ; line the edges of a pie dish with puff paste and decorate it tastefully ; add the yolks of the eggs to the apples and pour the mixture into the pie dish ; bake it in a moderate oven about 20 minutes ; whip the whites very stiff and spread them over the apple ; dredge over a little white sugar, garnish with a few preserved cherries, then place the pudding in a cool oven to set the white of egg; it will take ajaout 10 minutes and shoula get a very light brown. Potato Cbeese Cakes. — ^They are a most delicious dainty. One- fourth pound of freshly cooked potatoes well mashed. Add to that one-fourth pound of butter and one-fourth pound of white sugar. Then add 2 eggs, beating all the time; then the juice of a lemon, the rind cut yery fine, and one-fourth pound of currants well washed and dried. Put in the juice of the lemon last of all. Line small tart tins with puff paste, or pie plates will do. Put in the mixture. Don't put a cover on. Bake in a quick oven. Clabber. — In the summer clabber is usually served at least for dinner and ofttimes for supper. A particularly nice way of serving this is to have a bowl for each member of the family, into which strain the milk, and when it turns, i. e., becomes a smooth thick cake like blanc mange, serve in the same dish, eaten with white SMugx DESSERTS. 42© sprtnkkd over it. Tbia k really a deligiitfal dwBert, though so simplft. -^ Syllabub. — Syllabub is a very old-fashioned dish. To make it, dissolve half a pound of cut sugar in 1 teacupful of wine ; heat 3 pints of cream lukewarm, pour the wine on it, holding it several feet above and pouring very slowly, so as to cause the cream to froth. Airy Nothing. — Six egg whites ; 6 tablespoonfuls sugar ; 1 cupful jelly. Beat the egg whites ; then add the sugar ; beat for hal^ an hour and then beat in the jelly and set on the ice. Serve in saucers with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Moonsbiine. — Make 1 quart of rich cream very sweet, grate half a nutmeg over ; put into a glass dish, then beat very stiff 3 egg whites, add half a cup powdered sugar and sufficient currant jelly to color the froth. When thoroughly beaten and perfectly smooth drop the froth from a large spoon on the cream, and keep in a cool place until served. Fruit Desserts. Apple Meringue. — Stew a quart of sour apples, and add the juice and part of the grated rind of 1 lemon; together with sugar to suit the taste. Strain the apples through a colander and place, them in a nice piidding dish. Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, to which add with a spoon 1 cupful of fine sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon extract. Spread this frosting over the apples, and set the pudding in the oven to brown slightly, after which placd it where it will become ice cold. The yolks of the eggs may be used, with the addition of 1 whole egg, to make a. caramel custard in cups for the next day's dessert. Tuttl Prutti Apples. — A choice dessert is made from large, well- flavored and rather tart apples. Pare the apples, take out the cores and put them in a baking pan. Sift over them after they begin to bake enough granulated sugar to coat the outsides. Bake until ten- der and somewhat brown, but take them from Ae oven while they are ^till whole. Put them in a flat and rather deep dish. Chop 2- dozen blanched almonds, and mix with thern 4 ounces of seeded and chopped raisins, and 2 tablespoonfuls of dried currants. Add to these a half cupful of water, the same quantity of sugar, the grated yellow rind of a lemon, and a dessertspoonful* of lemon juice. Sim\ mer half an hour, then boil hard for 10 minutes. Fill in the centre 430 DESSERTS. - of the apples with this mixture and pour that which is left over the outside. Serve cold with whipped cream. A mixture of chopped candied fruits may be added to a syrup and used in the same way. Apple Sponge. — ^Cover half a box of gelatine with cold water and allow it to stand for half an hour; then pour over it-half a pint of boiling wat^r, and stir uiitil dissolved. Press a pint of stewed apples through a sieve and mix with the gelaltine; add a pound of sugar, and stir until it melts ; squeeze in the juice of 2 lemons ; turn the mixture into a tin pan ; set on ice until it begins to thicken. Beat the whites of 3 eggs ; stir into the apples ;- beat all together until thick and cold. Pour into a mould and set on ice to harden. Serve with whipped cream or plain cream and sugar. Apple or Peach Meringiie. — One quart of strained apple sauce, or 8 tart apples stewed soft and rubbed through a sieve. If canned peaches are used, add a cupful of sugar, stew soft and rub through a sieve. For the apple, add 1 cupful of sugar, half a-teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla extract and the well-beaten yolks of 4 eggs. 'Butter a pudding dish, put in the mixture, and bake 20 minutes in a quick oven. Beat the 4 whites to a stiff froth, and add 4 tablespoonTuls of pow- „ . , „ dered sugar : spread over the hot pudding and Gem Apple Oorers. . i- tJli t7 ^ i. u -^i. brown very lightly. Eat when ice cold, with or without cream. Without the meringue this compound will keep in ' the ice-chest for many days without losing any of its delicate flavor. Apple Float. — Boil the apple till tender, and press through a sieve till the whole pulp is entirely free from lumps. Sweeten to taste, and beat through it the whites of several eggs that have already been well frothed. Lemon juice or nutmeg can be added if flavoring is desired. Now pour the float into a handsome glass bowl, and on top, with a large spoon, heap the whipped whites of eggs or whipped cream, and dust sugar and nutmeg over it, and here and there drop clear apple jelly on it. Eat with cream, plain or whipped. Apple Trifle. — Take smooth, well-sweetened apple sauce, chill, put in a deep glass dish, and heap whipped cream over the top. De- licious. Apple Whip. — Make a pint of milk into rich boiled custard, by adding, when at boiling point, a teacupful of sugar, a bit of butter Desserts. 431 the size of a small walnut, and the yolks of 3 eggs beaten to a cream, and a pinch of salt. Stir -all together till smooth and creamy; then add 1 pint of apple sauce which has been put through a fine strainer, and beat all together. A teaspoonful of vanilla is to be added when cold, and at the last, just before serving, the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a tablespoonful of sugar. Gold Peacb Pudding. — One quart peaches, sliced ; three-fourths cup sugar, half teaspoonful vanilla, 1 pint milk, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoon- fuls flour, one-fourth teaspoonful salt. Put the milk in a double boiler, set on the fire, beat together sugar, flour, salt and eggs ; stir this into the mixture of the boiling milk ; cook for 15 minutes, stir- ring often ; take from the fire ; add the vanilla ; set the bowl in a cool place ; pare and slice the peaches. When the cream is cold, stir the peabhes into it. Stand the pudding on ice for an hour. Turn into a glass dish to serve. Peacb Meringue. — Boil 1 quart of milk, omitting one-half cup to moisten ; 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. When the milk boils, add the moistened cornstarch ; stir constantly until thick ; remove from fire, add 1 tablespoonful butter ; let cook. Then beat in yolks of 3 eggs until the mixture seems light and creamy ; add one-half cup jiow- dered sugar. Cover the bottom of a well-buttered baking dish with 2 or 3 layers of rich, juicy peaches (pared, halved and stoned), sprin- kle with 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, pour over them the cus- tard, and bake 20 minutes, then spread with the light -beaten whites, well sweetened, and return to the oven until a light brown. Serve with cream or a rich sauce. Nice without any dressing. Banana Trifle. — One quart of sweet milk, 3 fresh eggs, half cup of sugar ; scald all to a soft custard ; when cool flavor with vanilla ; have ready a deep dish with 6 bananas peeled and sliced thin, and a few slices of sponge cake; pour the above over this and set away where it will get cold. Banana Tapioca. — A cup of tapioca soaked over night. Next morning put into a farina kettle with as much water as one would use for cooking rice; when cooked perfectly clear, sugar it and salt it as one likes it, slice six bananas, stir into the hot pudding, cool it in a mould and serve it with whipped cream. Banana Moonshine. — ^Beat the whites of 6 eggs to a very stiff froth. Then add gradually 7 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat- 432 DESSERTS. ing until stiff and hard. Then beat in half a cupful of banana which has been whipped to a cream. Set on ice until thoroughly chilled. Serve with whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Banana Meringue. — Put in a saucepan a quart of milk, /half a tablespoonful of cornstarch smoothly mixed, half a cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of 4 eggs ; set this over boiling water, and when nearly boiling remove at once. When cold, stir in half a dozen sliced bananas and turn into a glass dish; cover the top with meringue made fronv the whipped whites and serve with lady-fingers and whipped cream. Pineapple Crean^ PuddingfJ — To make pineapple cr^am pudding for 6 persons, use 1 pineapple of medium size, 1 pint of milk, 3 eggs, three-fourths of, a cupful of sugar, 2 tablespbonfuls of flour, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Put the milk in the double boiler and oh the fire. Beat together, until light and smooth, the sugar, flour, salt and eggs. Stir this mixture into the boiling milk and cook for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Then take from the fire and turn the mixture into a bowl. Beat the vanilla extract into the mixture jmd set the bowl'away in a cool place. Pare the pineapple and grate it into a deep dish. When the cream becomes cool stir the pineapple into it, then place the pudding in the refrigerator for an hour or more, to chill it thoroughly. Turn-into a glass dish and serve. Serve plain, or with whipped cream. Strawberry Pudding. — Beat the yolks of 4 eggs and 4 table- spoonfuls of sugar. Add the'juice of 1 cup of berries and 2 table- spoonfuls of hot water, and simmer until it thickens. Remove from, the fire, partly cool and stir in the whites of 4 eggs, beaten stiff, with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Add 1 quart of very ripe strawbe'rries. Serve cold with sauce made of one-half cup of butter and 1 cup of sugar, stirred to a cream and piled on top. Strawberry Bread Pudding. — Beat yolks of 4 eggs with half 'a cup of sugar, add a pint of milk and 1 cup of stale crumbs. Mix and turn in a baking dish. Bake until " set " in a moderate oven about 20 minute?. Take out and cover thickly with sugared berries. Beat the whites of the eggs until very light, add to them 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beat again. Spread over the berries, dust thickly. Stvawb«rry Puff Fuddinff.— -Sift 2 tablespoonfuls ®f baking powder with 1 pint of flour; beat well 1 egg; add a little salt; mix DESSERTS. 438 with sweet milk till of the consistenqr of thick batttr ; place well- greased cups in a steamer ; put into each a spoonful of batter, then a spoonful of strawberries, and cover with another spoonful of batter, steam 20 mjnutes. Eat with cream and sugar, or a liquid hot sauce with a cupful of strawberry juice added. Custard Strawberries. — Put 1 pint of milk on the^ stove; wlien"it comes to a boil add the yolks of 3 eggs, half cup of sugar and stir in the boiling milk ; after it thickens take from the fire and cool ; have ready a box of strawberries with sugar put over them, then turn the custard over them and beat the whites of the eggs with 3 teaspoons of powdered sugar and frost it ; set in oven to brown. Jellied Strawberries. — Melt 2 ounces of gelatine in a little cold water; squeeze the juice from a quart of currants, and add to the gela- tine, and sweeten; stem a pint and a half of ripe strawberries; mix in the currant juice; turn into a mould; set on ice to harden, and serve with cream. Strawberry Gelatiae. — Take half a box of gelatine, dissolve in half cup of cold water; then pour on a pint of boiling water; sweeten and flavor to taste. Now take a glass dish, pour a little on the bot- tom, set on ice, when stiff put a layer of strawberries on top and cover with gelatine; set on ice; when stiff this time put on another layer of strawberries, powder with sugar, and you have a very nice and cheap dessert. Orange Ambrosia Pudding. — Fill a glass dish with layers of orange and banana, or alternate layers of oranges, strawberries, and sliced bananas. Sprinkle with grated cocoanift, if desired. Sweeten well. Make a custard with a pint of milk, 2 eggs (leave out 1 white^, a little flour or cornstarch, half a cupful of sugar, not to make it stiff, but a little thicker ; pour the custard over the fruit. The white, beaten stiff, with 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, can be dropped in spoon-, fuls over the top. Serve very cold. Orange Jelly, in Baskets. — With a sharp penknife cut half way round the centre of the orange, leaving a strip half an inch, in width to serve as a handle; take out all the pulp; when finished, the skin of the orange should be in the form of a basket; the basket should be a little more than half the depth of the orange. Now, with a. pair of scissors cut the top edge of the basket in points. Tp make the jelly, strain the pulp of the oranges; soak one-half box of eOOK— 28 434 DESSERTS. gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water until soft ; add 1 cupful of boiling water, the juice of 1 lemon, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 pint of orange j uice. Stir till the sugatis dissolved, and strain. When cool, fill the orange skins, which have in the meantime been carefully washed cleaned, and placed in a pan of broken ice to keep upright, and at the same time to chill. Some cooks, when they are ready to. serve, put a spoonful of whipped cream over the jelly in each basket. To serve these baskets, they should be placed on small doilies, and a ribbon- bow of yellow, or pale blue satin tied on each handle. Or, send to table in a bed of orange, or laurel, or some other kind of pretty green leaves. Orange Tapioca.— Wash 3 tablespoonfuls of tapioca, cover with cold water and-soak over night. In the morning heat 1 pint of milk, in a double boiled, add the tapioca, a pinch of salt, and boil 20 min- iates. To the well-beaten yolks of 2 eggs, add half a teacupful of granulated sugar and 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch dissolved in a little cold milk, stir into the boiling milk and boil for 5 minutes. Then pour into a pudding dish; make a meringue of the whites of eggs,, 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, flavor with orange extract, and stand in a moderate oven to brown slightly.^ Pare, slice thinly, and remove the seeds of 6 or 8 large sweet oranges, lay in the bottom of a glass dish, and sift powdered sugar over and between each layer. When the pudding is cold run a wet knife around to loosen the edge, lay it over the fruit, and serve. Orange Cream. — Grate 1 lemon and 2 oranges ; mix with a cup- ful of sugar and half a cupful of water. Put in a small saucepan, set on the stove until, the sugar is dissolved; beat 3 eggs and stir in; set off to cool. When thick, stir in a teacupful of whipped cream. Set on ice until very cold, and serve with cake. Orange Float. — Add the juice of 3 lemons to a quart of water; put in a saucepan with a cup of sugar ; set on the fire until it boils ; stir in 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, and set aside to cool. Peel 6 large oranges, slice and lay in a deep glass dish ; poUr the mixture over. Spread- the top with meringue, and serve very cold with sponge cake. Orange SnowbaUs. — Boil 1 cup of rice, and, when cool, spread evenly on 6 or 8 duncipling cloths. Pare as many small oranges, taking off all the white skin, and tie the fi-uit surrounded by the rice DESSERTS. 435 in the cloths, boiling steadily for one hour. Turn out, cover with powdered sugar, and serve with whipped cream or a rich liquid sauce. Currant Meringrue. — Crush together a cupful of currants with an equal measure of sugar. Beat the yolks of 2 eggs with a round- ing teaspoonful of flour, and stir this into the currants, adding a little water, unless the fruit is quite juicy. Pour the mixture into a deep pie plate and bake. When it is doTae, cover the top with a meringue made from the whites of the eggs beaten with 2 tablespoonfuls of . sugar. Brown slightly in the oven and serve cold. Red Currant Snow. — A pint of boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch and a cupful of sugar. Remove from the fire when cooked thick, and add the- juice of 2 cups of red currants, crushed and pressed through a colander. Whip the whites of 2 eggs, add a little sugar, and pour over all. Blackberry Cream. — Sprinkle half a cupful of sugar over 2 quarts of ripe berries, and mash them with a heavy spoon or wooden pestle. Set aside for a couple of hours, then strain the juice through a thin cloth, and add another half cupful of sugar. Partially whip a pint of sweet cream, to which add the fruit juice; continue the whip- ping, gradually adding the stiff-beaten whites of 2 eggs. When no more cream arises from the whipping, serve at once. Blackberry Musb or Flummery. — To a quart of ripe blackber- ries add a pint of water and cook till tender, then stir in a little corn- starch, arrowroot or wheat flour to thicken the cooked fruit to a proper consistency, and make a jelly or mush of it. Sweeten to taste, and serve either warm or cold with cream. Be careful not to get the mixture too stiff or too sweet, as in either case much of its flavor and delicacy is destroyed. Dewberries, strawberries, raspberries or any of the small fruits can be used in the same way, and all make deli- cibus mushes. Any kind of fruit mush makes a very delicate dessert in hot weather; and when blackberries are in season there is no more dainty and healthful breakfast dish than blackberry mush. Mould and serve with cream. Fruit Sauce for Puddings.— Mash a quart of ripe fruit, beat it, sift a cupful of sugar over it and set away. If the fruit is very sweet, less sugar will be required. About 10 minutes before the sauce is needed set it over the fire and stir constantly. When heated nearly to boiling, turn it about the base of the puddijig, which has been 466 DESSERTS. jUtatd in & de«p platter Fruit saace is, by th^ bye,- aa sttractive lb appearance as it is delicious in taste. ' Raspberry Float. — One quart red raspberries ; whites of 4 eggs; 6 tablespopnfuls sugar. Mash berries, add half cup sugar ; let stand half an hour ; press through strainer.' Beat whites to stiff froth, add raspberry juice a little at a time. Serve in small glass dishes with cake. Raspberry Trifle. — Six small sponge cakes, such as are sold for a cent a piece at bakers' shops ; 1 quart of milk ; 5 eggs ; 1 cup of sugar ; 1 quart red raspberries ; 1 cup of sweet cream ; vanilla for flavoring. Make a custard of the milk, the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, flavoring with the vanilla. Split the cakes ; lay half of them in the bottom of a glass dish ; pour over them half the cream, and strew thickly with the berries sprinkled with sugar. Cover these with a second layer of cake, moistened with the rest of the cream, and spread with the remainder of the berries. Pour the ice-cold cus- tard over all ; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff meringue with a little powdered sugar ; mix in a handful of berries, and heap the me- ringue on top of the trifle. Raspberry Meringue. — Line a pie plate with good light pastry, and bake in a quick oven. While still warm, spread thickly with red raspberries. Make a meringue of the whites of 4 eggs beaten stiff with a half-cUpful of powdered sugar, and when it is a froth stir lightly through it a half-pint of raspberries. Heap the meringue on top of the berries in the pie plate, and broWn Afery delicately in the oven. ' Eat as soon as it is cool. ^ Tapioca Fruit Dessert. — Make a plain blanc mange or jelly by boiling soaked tapioca until 9lear in either milk or water ; put a layer of mixed preserved and candied fruits in a glass dish, and when the tapioca has cooled sufficiently, pour a part of it over them ; add more fruit and the remainder of the tapioca. Serve cold. Rhubarb with liemon Cl-eam. — Over some rich stewed rhubarb pour the following: Mix well together 6 ounces of loaf sugar and the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, then add 1 pint of sweet thick cream and whisk it to a froth. This is also nice over strawberries, raspberries, or almost any fresh, ripe fruit. Rbubarb Tapioca. — Wash, and cut into small pieces, 1 quart of rhubarb. Cook it, with 1 pint of sugar, in a porcelain or granite DESSERTS. '^7 do«tte bdkr, until tender ; do not stir It. Skim it out ow^fblly and put it into an earthen pudding dish. To the syrup left in the double boiler add enough boiling water to make 1 quart, and when boiling add two-thirds of a cup of pearl tapioca. Let it boil 1 hour, then pour it over the rhubarb. Add 1 large tablespoonful of butter, and bake aboqt half an hour. Serve with foamy sauce or with cream. Plum Custard. — Stone and stew a pint of plums. Lay them in the bottom of a pudding dish, sprinkle with sugar, and pour over them a cream made by cooking together until thick and smooth 2 Gups of milk and 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and adding to this after it comes from the fire a tablespoonful of butter and the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten light. Bake the cream-covered plums 10 minutes, cover them with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs beaten with 3 table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, brown lightly, and eatijold with cream. Plum Pudding-. — Stew a quart of plums, remove the pits, sweeten, and pour them into an earthen pudding dish. Cover them with a thick batter, made by taking a cupful of sweet cream or rich milk, 1 egg, a teaspoonful of baking powder and flour sufficient to give the right consistency. A soft biscuit dough may also be used for the covering. Steam for an hour or bake for half as long. On remov- ing from the dish, invert the pudding, and serve with hard sauce. Quince Snow. — -Quarter 5 quinces, boil until tender in water; peel and rub through a colander, sweeten to the taste, and add the whites of 4 eggs. Beat all to a stiff froth and pile with a spoon upon a glass dish and put in the ice-box to chill. Fruit Trifle. — Whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Then whisk in 2 tablespoonfuls each of cur- rant jelly and raspberry jam. Grape Trifle. — Stew Concord grapes and pass them through a colander. Sweeten the pulp and juice and thicken it slightly with cornstarch. Pour it hot over small slices of stale bread, biscuit or cake. Before these are soft enough to fall to pieces, pile them up in a glass dish, interlaying with desiccated cocoanut. Cover with a me- ringue made with the white of an egg beaten with pulverized sugar, and dot with macaroons or walnut meats and strips of jelly. Serve cold- ' JelUed Prunes. — One pint of prunes, a pint and a half of water, half a package of gelatine, juice of 2 oranges, and half a pint of .wgar. 438 ., DESSERTS. Soak the gelatine in 1 gill of the water for 2 hours. Wash the prunes in several waters, rubbing them well between the hands. Put them in a stew-pan with lyi cups water; stew slowly for 1 hour. Take up the prunes and remove the stones. Return the fruit to the water in the stew-pan and let it boil up. Add-the gelatine and take from the fire. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the sugar and orange juice. Put the stew-pati in a pan of ice water, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken. Pour into a mould, and set in a cool place to harden. It should stand for 4 or 5 hours, and then be served with soft custard or whipped cream. Prime Jelly.— Stone 1 pound of prunes and put them into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them ; add one-quarter pound of sugar and the juice of half a lemon, and stew all gently for 2 hours ; then pass the prunes through a wire sieve. Soak one-half ounce of gelatine in water and add it to the prunes ; then break the prune- stones and add the kernels to the jelly. Boil all together for 2 min- utes, then pour into a mould. This jelly is often served in border moulds, and the centre filled up with whipped cream. A little car- mine improves the color, and claret is sometimes used instead of water to stew the prunes in. Date Meringue — Is a delicate dessert, and may be quickly made in a case of unexpected company, if one has at hand the sine qua non. Beat the whites of 5 eggs to a stiff froth, add 3 tablespoorffuis of sugar, and one-half pound of dates, stoned and cut up fine. Bake 15 minutes in a modera:te oven. Serve, as soon as cool, with thick, sweet cream, or a' custard made with the yolks. Dessert Dates. — May have a peanut or almond put in place of the stone, and the date rolled in coarse granulated sugar, or dipped in thin frosting. Prettily arranged, they^will be found attractive alike to the eye. and the palate. Dates and Almonds. — Prepared together this is an Eastern dish, very delicious, but almost too rich for our liking.- To make it, cut a slit in eath date, slip out the stone and insert a blanched almond. Then .prepare a rich sugar syrup. When it boils^ put in the dates, stew gently until they are easily pierced all throtigh, remove from the fire, and serve cold. Steamed Dates or Figs. — Remove all particles of dirt found oa the dates ; cut the dates open lengthwise and take out the stone, also DESSERTS. 439 an occasional worm next the stone. Pinch the dates together again, and place in dish loosely. Have water boiling under steamer, put dish of dates into it, and steam 10 minutes only; Remove steamer to open window ; take off the cover to let the steam evaporate. Serve warm or cold, with or without cream. Figs can be served same way. Fig Custard. — Butter a two-quart tin pudding mould, tear in half figs enough ta cover the sides and bottom, first scraping them care- fully to see that they are free from defects. Make a custard of a pint of milk, 3 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuts of sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon flavor, or 2 or 3 strips of the yellow peel of a lemon. Thicken the custard with 3 tablespoonfuls of macaroons, or dried sponge cake, after it has been boiled, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of gelatine which has been soaking in cold water for 2 hours. Pour the custard into . the mould, cover it closely, and let it cook in a steamer or in the oven for 1 hour. At the end of this time, take it but and set it away to become cold. Thejj slip it out of the mould, carefully loosening the sides with a knife, and serve it with a sauce of whipped cream. Cherry Puddingr< — A delicious cherry pudding is made of early red cherries by the following recipe : Beat the yolks of 4 eggs until light,- then the whites, and add with a pint of rich milk; sift in 2 pints of flour with 2 teaspoonfuls of baking pow- der, and beat until smooth; then add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter, with a pinch of salt. Drain the juice from 3 teacups of stoned cherries, dredge them with flour, and stir with the batter ; turn into a buttered pudding mould ; cover, and stand in a pot of boiling water, to boil for 3 hours. Serve with hard sauce. Cherry Charlotte. — Cut in narrow strips a few slices of stale sponge cake, and arrange these around the sides of a deep glass dish. Stone a quart of fine, juicy cherries, and sprinkle lightly with sugar, unless very sweet. Pour these, juice and all, over the sponge cake. Now whip a pint of sweet cream very stiff; sweeten to taste, color about half of it with red cherry juice, and pile it upon the cherries. Let it remain in the icebox until the moment of serving. "VHESE delicious summer desserts are capable of innumerable variations. As warm weather grows apace^ and . the appetite for plain and cooked fruits wanes, these delicacies will tempt the most jaded pajate. The ways of serving are so varied that tiie most elaborate conserve may be pre- pared fro;ii many ingredients, or a simple dish concocted of oddis and ends that will be a pleas- ant and agreeable change. In very^many of Fruit Salad recipes, wines and cordials are used as flavoring. This, however, is not a necessity, for any one who ob- jects to them on principle will find that a half cup of orange juice may be used as a substitute in any salads given in this department. Fruit Salad. — Half box gelatine ; use Rouble the amount in hot weather. Dissolve ia sufficient cold water to completely cover. Then pour overit 1 pint of boiling water. When cool add 1 cup of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons. Arrange the fruits in a dish that will set level on the ice, and pour the gelatine solution over all. Fruits as follows : 1 can apricots, 1 can pineapple, 3 oranges, cut in slices ; 6 bananas, sliced ; 10 cents worth of almonds, blanched and chopped ; peaches, sliced, to equal the bananas in amount; add strawberries and Raspberries. Mingle all carefully together, pour the gelatine over^^nd set on the ice. Any fruit not at hand can be omitted. Fruit Gelatine. — One. box of gelatine in 1 pint of cold water a few moments ; add 1 quart boiling water, 1 J^ pints granulated sugar. When dissolved, flavor with juice of 3 lemons. Strain into a mould, before it begins to stiffen ; add 4 oranges, sliced in small pieces, leaving the white skin; one-half pound of Malaga grapes, split lengthwise; one-half pound English walnut kernels, halved; one-half teacup of pineapple, cut in small pieces ; a few seeded raisins sometimes added. Serve with whipped cream. Let stand on ice until firm before turn- ing out. ;^ Banana Salads.-=-Cut a few bananas straight down the middle, and then cut them lengthwise into strips. Put them in layers, with slices of orange, in a glass dish, sprinkling sugar plentifully over each 440 FRUIT SALADS. 441 layer. Lay aside for 2 hours, and then serve with couple tablespoon- fuls lemon juice poured over it all. An excellent salad is made out of cut bananas, served in red currant or blackberry syrup. Anotl^er good salad is of bananas, tinned apricots and French preserved plums ; or, again, of bananas, grapes, slices of apple, pear, orange, and black- berries. Frencli Banana Salad. — Put in a salad glass a layer of ice well powdered with sugar, and upon this a layer of bananas, which have been peeled and picked to pieces with a silver fork ; again a handful of chopped ice and sugar, and after this bananas, repeating until the salad glass is as full as required. Pour upon the fruit a wineglass of white wine, and a wineglass of tepid water, in which you have dipped a lump of sugar that has absorbed the drops of almond essence ; and "another that has absorbed 3 drops of genuine eau de cologne, which is constsintly used in cookery in France. In the right cologne you get the compressed extract of rosemary and lemon thyme. Mix the salad well, and dress the top with whipped cream and a few preserved violets. You will not detect*" the cologne, as with the other ingre- dients it unites to produce a subtle, slightly mysterious, but delicious flavor. / Sweet Orange Salad. — Take equal quantities of oranges and ripe, rich apples, peeled and sliced, and the latter soaked in lemon juice. Dip both in powdered sugar. Put these in a bowl in layers and add a glass of white wine and 2 tablespoons of orange iiower water. Omit the wine, add a little lemon juice. - Strawberry Salad. — Another admirable way of serving straw- berries is in salads with other fruits — with sliced bananas over which lemon juice has been squeezed^ for example, or with shredded pine- apple, this last affording an unsurpassable flavor. ^ Peach Salad.— Cut some carefully peeled peaches m thin slices, dress them in a circle with sifted sugar. This salad is to be preferred only when ready to serve. Pear Salad. — Peel and cut into thin .slices some very fine ripe pears, sweeten and finish the same as the peaches. Orange Salad.— tut the oranges without peeling them, and finish the same as for the above, substituting lemon juice for orange. Apple Salad. — To be prepared and flavored the same as the pears, only suppressing the cores and seeds. Use nice apples. Use porcelain, granite, or iron kettles, or stone jars for preserving. Fruits that require paring should be dropped into cold water as soon as peeled to prevent blackening. Pare the fruit with a silver knife to avoid discoloration. Boil preserves gently. In preserving, the syrup some- times begins to rise so rapidly that there is no lime to move the heavy kettle aside. In such a case it is well to know that a teaspoonful of cold water thrown into the syrup will make it subside' immediately. Use granulated sugar in preserving fruit and always look it over carefully before using. The fruit should not be over-ripe, for if it is too soft, it will quickly break during the process and have an uninviting look when ready to set^away. ^ When preparing quinces for preserves and marmalade, save all the peelings, cores and seed. Cover these with water and cook until very soft. Strain, add to the liquid as much sugar as you have of juice and boil until thick enough to jell. It is not necessary^ that preserves be kept aif-tight, but they should not be put up in large vessels, for a mould js apt to form on the top after a jar is opened. If possible, use quart jars. If the jars have tops, close them when filled as in can- ning; if not, cover the preserves with paper that has been dipped in brandy, after which paste a circular piece: of paper over the top of the jar the same as for jelly. An asbestos mat is a useful article to keep preserves and jams from burning. To prevent preserves and jams from suga^:ing add a teaspoonful of cream tartar to every gallon of fruit before it is quite cooked. A very little tartaric acid will answer the same purpose. Preserves that are candied may be liquefied by setting the jar in a kettle of cold water. Let-the water boil continuously for an hour or more. ' To keep from becoming mouldy put a few drops of glycerine around the edges of the jar before screwing on the cover. This is a sure pre- ventive. When preserves are but slightly fermented, simply pouring off the syrup, scalding it, and turning- back over the fruit, will be sufficient. If necessary, scald the entire fruit and juice. Cleanse the jars thor- 442 PRESERVES AND JAMS. 443 oughly. Rinse, with a little bi-carbonate of soda in the water. Re- turn the fruit to the jar and cover while hot. They should be kept in a cool; dry place, and looked at every few weeks. Sugar, To Clarify. — Clarify when brown sugar is used. With very nice white sugar this process is hardly necessary. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle in the proportion of 1 cupful of water to 1 pound of sugar. To every 5 pounds of sugar add i:he beaten white of an egg. Put all together over a slow fire to dissolve, stir and let boil up once or twice, set back a minute and skim. Return to the fire and let boil 15 minutes, removing and skimming several times. " Then pour off the clear syrup, wash the kettle, pour back the syrup and put the fruit in to cook, adding more water if necessary. Cookingr Preserves in Syrup. — Put in only as much as the syrup will cover. When done remove and add more fruit. If necessary, more syrup can be made. Peaches. Peach Preserves. — Select peaches that are ripe, but not soft, and free stones. Pour boiling water upon them and let them stand 5 or 6 minutes, then pour off the water and pull off the skins. Weigh the fruit after it is pared and the stones extracted, and allow a pound of granulated sugar to every one of peaches. Crack one-quarter of the stones, and extract the kernels. Put sugar and peaches in alternatei layers in a stone jar and let stand all night. Blanch the peach ker- nels. The next day pour off the syrup and boil it a few minutes, set off the fire and skim. Return to the fire, and when^ it boils lay in the peaches, scattering the peach kernels among them. Boil very slowly one-rhalf hour, then lay the peaches into jars, boil the syrup 15 min- utes longer and pour over them. The peach kernels give a delicate flavor. In canning, pack the peaches in the jar and pour the syrup over them. Instead of halving the peaches some cooks force out the pit and leave the peach as whole as possible. Peach Preserves. — II. Select a white variety of the fruit, and a clingstone. Pare, and drop each peach into a stone jar of clear water. Scalding is a speedy way of paring, but darkens the flesh a little sometimes. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Place in the kettle a teacupful of water for every 4 pounds of fmit, and then the fruit and sugar in alternate layers. Bojl until 444 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the peaches can be pierced with a fork, after which skim out the fruit and boil dpwn the syrup as in the preceding recipe ; then return the fruit for a final heating. These preserves should be kept in wide- mouthed glass jars or a small stone jar. Leave the stones in, or not, as preferred. Braudied Peaches. — Select firm, ripe fruit, which should be pared only, not halved. Make a thin syrup of sugar and water, to cover the fruit, and boil until the peaches can be pierced easily with a fork. Take out with a skimmer, and pack in quart glass jars. Make the syrup very rich, and boil it 15 minutes. Add the best brandy in the proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to a quart can. Pour the syrup, while still hot, over the peaches, filling the cans to the top and seal. The old- time method was to add the same amount of brandy that there was syrup,, thus -form- ing a compound that had a most Aggressive odor of liquor, and one repellant to refined tastes. Made in the fashion here given, the little dash of spirits simply gives a piquant flavor to the preserve. Peacli Butter. — To 1 bushel of peaches allow from 8 to 10 pounds of granulated sugar. Pare and halve the- peaches; put into the kettle and stir constantly to prevent sticking until perfectly smooth and rather thick. Some of the peach stones thrown in and cooked with the peaches give it a nice flavor, and they can be afterwards skimmed out. Add the sugar a short time before taking from the fire j put in jars and cover tight. Peaches should be neither too mealy nor too juicy. Peach Marmalade.: — Pare and quarter the peaches. Allow three- Iburths of a pound of sugar and a cup of water to each pound of fr^jti Cook slowly, stirring and mashing the fruit; skim, and be careful that it does not bum when nearly done. Small and imperfect fruit can be economically used for marmalade. To every 2 pounds of fruit add then the kernds of half- a dozen peach stones chopped fine, and the juice of a lemon. Cool 10 minutes longer and put in small jars or Scale. jelly glasses, peach pits. Some add the juice of a lemon, or two, instead of the PRESERVES AND JAMS. 44ft Peaxs. Preserved Pears. — Pare the fruit; divide; remove the core; add- ing"to each pound of pears three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Make a syrup by adding as many cups of water as there are pounds of sugar. Boil and skim ; when clear put in the pears and stew until tender. Choose pears like the Seckle for preserving, on account of flavor and size. (Leave small pears whole.) Pears possess very little decided fla-vor of their own, hence a nice way is to stick a clove in the blos- som end of each pear. Another nice way is to add the juice and thinly pared Hnd of 1 lemon to each five pounds of fruit. If the pears are hard and tough, parboil them until tender before beginning to preserve, and from the same water take what is needed for making the syrup. Large pears must be halved, or even sliced. Pack the pears in jars ; boil the syrup a few minutes longer,' and pour into cover the fruit ; seal immediately, or put in jars, and simply tie down when cold. Preserved Pears. — II. Pare, core, and quarter the fruit, and for each pound of pears take one-half pound of sugar. Save the perfect cores and skins and boil these in sufficient water to cover. Strain this and put the sugar in, let boil and add the prepared fruit ; stew gently until the syrup becomes colored finely. Can, and seal im- mediately. Ginger Pears. — This is a delicious sweetmeat. Use a firm pear, peel, core, and halve them. Have a syrup made of three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; for 8 pounds of fruit use 6 pounds of sugar, the juice and rind of 4 lemons, i pint of water, and half a pound of ginger-root (the green, if possible), sliced thin. Boil the sliced and scraped ginger-root in the pint of water for 20 minutes, add the sugar, boil 10 minutes and skim. Then put in the fruit, which has been previously pared and dropped in cold water to prevent its turning black. Cut the lemons in long, thin strips, and cook all together slowly until the pears are tender. Pack the pears in jars, and fill each jar up to the brim with syrup, put on the rubbers, and screw on the tops as tight as you can. Be careful, when the jars are cold, to tighten them still further before you set them away. Divide up the slices of lemon-peel and pieces of ginger equally among the jars. "PWe is a most delicious and rich preserve, and is especially nice 446 PRESERVES AND JAMS.- when served, like preserved ginger, with ice cream. The above is an old-fashioned recipe, dating back t6 colonial times, when these ginger fruit preserves were a special feature of -the tables of hospitable dames. Brandied Pears. — In making brandy pears, Bartletts are the only variety that will give entire satisfaction when brandied, as they have a more decided flavor than any other. Select firm but ripe pears, and proceed as for Brandied Peaches. Pear Marmalade. — Pare, peel and core good, ripe pears, and for ■every 12 pounds allow 8 of sugar and 1 quart of water. Slice the fruit, and put, it and the water together in a kettle, which stand on the fire and boil till the fruit is very soft. Titen add < the sugar, well bruised, and a few sticks of cinnamon tied together, so as to form a fagot. Stir the marmalade over a brisk fire with a clean wooden spoon till it is reduced to a rather thick paste that runs slowly off the speon. Remove from the fire, and pour at once into either small jars or jelly glasses. Quinces. Quince Preserves. — This variety of preserves requires a longer time for preparation than any other, but is fully worth the extra time and trouble, for it is the prettiest and most palatable of all preserved fruits. Choose fine, yellow quinces ; pare, quarter and core them, or cut in circular slices an inch thick; pare and dijg the core from each, so as to leave the slice ring-shaped. Save all the perfect cores and skins. Put the quinces over the fire with just water enough to cover them, and simmer until they are soft enough to pierce with a yellow straw. Take out carefully with a skimmer, and spread upon broad dishes to cool. Add the cores and parings to the water in which the quinces were boiled, and stew, closely covered, for an hour. Strain through a jelly-bag. Return this juice to the fire and slowly boil the quinces in jt until they can be easily pierced with a steel fork. Boil only a few at a time, and when soft skim them out and lay them on a platter. When all the fruit has been thus cooked, add the sugar to the juice, and when dissolved return the quinces for a final cooking. The fruit must boil very slowly at least an hour, in order to take on the rich dark-red color so much desired. Sometimes this color may be obtained in a shorter time, but the preserves must not be removed from the fire until it appears. Do not cook the fruit too long at the PRESERVES AND JAMS. 44? first boiling, as this will render it so tender that in the second boil- ing it will break; and do not boil it entirely in the sugar, for this makes it tough and hard, and this condition will grow worse the longer the preserves are kept. Pack the quinces in jars and pour the syrup over them.^ Quince Preserves. — II. Pare and weigh the quinces according to the above directions, and allow only half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil the fruit in the liquid derived from straining the boiled cores and pairings, as in the previous case, and when, adding the sugar, also allow a pint of vinegar to every 4 pounds of sugar. Finish the same as in the foregoing recipe. To those who do not care for the mild and, to very many, the insipid 'flavor of the quince, the addition of the vinegar will prove an agreeable change. New cider is better than vinegar. Shred the rind of an orange and add for the flavor. Quince and Sweet Apple PreseiVes. — Six pounds of quinces, 6 pounds of hard, mellow apples, and 9 pounds of sugar. Pare, quarter and core the fruit, and boil separately until half done, in enough water to cover it. Then take out with perforated skimmer. Add the sugar to the liquor, and boil until it is quite a syrup. Add the fruit and boil slowly until it can be pierced with a straw. Put fruit in jars in alternate layers, reaching to within a third of the top ; pour in the syrup, seal when cool. The parings, cores, and any surplus syrup may be used for making jelly. Quince Marmalade.— Ten pounds of fully ripe quinces, juice of 6 oranges and 7^ pounds of sugar. Pare, core and slice the quinces, put the parings and cbres in a kettle with 1 cup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil slowly until all the flavor is extracted. Strain off the water through a jelly bag, and put into it the quinces and juice from the oranges, which should be almost cold. Boil until the fruit is a perfectly soft, thick paste ; add the sugar and boil slowly 15 minutes more, stirring constantly. If it jellies on a cold plate, it is done. A great help is to peel, quarter and core quinces ; then run through the meat chopper before boiling. It boils into marmalade much sooner. Quince Cheese, or Jam.— Mkke as for marmalade and boil down until thick enough to cut with a knife. Put in jars (small), cover with paper, wet with brandy, and seal when cool. It can be turned 44S PRESERVES AND JAMS. out with the firmnees of cheese, whence it takes its nsRt«, and cwt into slices for luncheon or tea. Apples. Apple Preserves. — Mellow, tart apples are the best for preserv- ing. Pare, quarter and core, or remove the core and leave the apple whole, as preferred. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of apples. Allow 1 sliced lemon to each pound of fruit. Boil the parings in water for 15 minutes, allowing 1 pint to each pound of fruit. Strain, add the sugar, let boil, and when yvell skimmed and clear, add the apples and let boil until they are transparent. Add the lemon just before canning, or flavor with bruised ginger root, tied in a cloth, and boiled in the syrup. Pack the fruit in jars and pour the boiling syrup in until full. Seal at once. Apple Marmalade. — Pare and core mellow apples, cut in pieces, adding three-fourths of a pound of sugar for each pound of apples. Boil over a slow fire until reduced to a fine pulp. A few cloves may be added, or a few pieces of stick cinnamon. Some cooks cut up 1 large quince and add to the apples for the flavor. Put in jelly jars in a cool place. Ginger Apples. — ^Weigh equal quantities, of good sour apples and sugar. Pare, core and chop the apples fine. Make a syrup of the sugar and add the apples, the grated peel of 2 or 3 lemons and a few pieces of white ginger. Boil until the apple looks clear and yellow. This resembles forpign sweetmeats. The ginger is essential to its pe- culiar excellence. This will keep for years. Best Apple Butter. — Make cider of sweet apples. Boil some of it down the day it is made. Peel and core sweet apples and put in uncooked cider. Boil all day if necessary. Have the boiled cider hot in a kettle and thin the butter with it as nfeeded. Have a long- handled paddle made of wood. Bore the blade with at least twelve auger-holes. Tie dry cora husks through the opening, and stir with this. It keeps the apj)les from settling. The only apple butter. Apple Butter. — II. Boil down 3 gallons of best cider ~ to one- fourth of the quantity, and pare and core as many mellow apples as the cider will cover. Divide the cider in 2 equal parts and put it in 2 kettles over the fire. Put the apples in one of the kettles, and as they boil down add gradually the cid6f from the second kettle, which PRESERVES AWD JAMS. 449 should be kept on the back of the stove. Boil 12 hours, or until it is of a fich brown color and quite smooth^; then add ground cloves, cinnamon, allspice and brown sugar to suit the taste. It should have another good boiling after that, and should be stirred constantly to prevent its adhering to the sides and bottom of the kettle. When done it will adhere to an inverted plate. Put away in earthen crocks. Apple and Cranberry Preserves. — One quart of cranberries, 3 pints of sweet apples pared, cored and quartered; 2^ cups water, 2^ cups of sugar, and cook until the cranberries begin to burst. Add the apples and boil slowly until it is soft. Citron Preserves. — Pare, cut into blocks, square or oblong; boil in water with small piece of alum until tender ; drain, allow three- quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of citron and allow 2 lemons for every 6 pounds. Make a syrup of the sugar and water in proportion of a pint of sugar to a quart of water ; boil till clear, skim, add the lemons sliced very thin, seeded, and the citron ; cook till the citron is transparent. Crabapple Prei|erves. — Core the crabapples through the blossom end with a sharp pen-knife. Leave the stems on. Weigh the fruit and take pound for pound of white sugar, and 1 cupful of water to each pound of sugar. Put over a moderate fire, let dissolve and boil ; skim and drop the apples in. Let them boil gently until clear and the skins begin to break. Skim out ; boil the syrup until thick ; put the fruit in jars and pour the syrup over. Grapes. ^ Grape Preserves. — Pulp them, boil the pulps until soft enough to strain through a colander; weigh the skins and pulps after the seeds are removed, adding sugar pound to pound; boil about 10 minutes, until the skins are sufficiently cooked. Or, take pound for pound of grapes, and white sugar. Stem the grapes, wash, and put in a preserving kettle in alternate layers with the sugar. Cook over a slow fire. Stirring constantly; as the seeds rise^skim them off. Stew 1 hour, set aside to cool, and then put in jars, tying up closely? Grape Marmalade. — Pulp the grapes as for preserves given above. Put the pulps, after boiling, through a colander to free from seeds ; add the pulp and skins together, adding three-fourths of a pouijd of sugar to 1 pound of grapes. (The grapes must be weighed previous COOK— 29 450 PRESERVES AND JAMS. to beginjiing work.) Boil as for aiiy- other marmalade until of the proper thickness. Put up in bowls and cover with paper. Or, make of the strained pulps alone ; to a quart of the pulp allow a pint of sugar and boil 40 minutes. Grape ButtefT— Pulp the grapes, put the skins in a bag, stew the pulps until the seeds can be removed by rubbing through a colander. To each pound of the pulp add 1 pound of sugar, half a pint of cider vinegar, half a teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon and 1 teaspoonful of nutmeg. Boil this .very slowly, putting in the bag of skins, tied securely. When it jellies by dropping in cold water it is done, Put away in jars. California Grape Preserves. — A delicious preserve can be made of California grapes. Cut each grape open with a knife and extract the seeds ; add sugar to the fruit, pound for pound; cook slowly for half an hour or longer until the syrup and pulp of the grape are per- fectly clear and transparent. Tomatoes. Tomato Preserves. — ^Take 7 pounds of small, sound, ripe toma- toes ; 7 pounds of white sugar, and juice of S lemons. Sprinkle the^ sugar over the tomatoes and let them stand together over night In the morning drain offjthe syrup and boil it, skimming it often ; put in the tomatoes and boil them slowly for 30 minutes ; take out the toma- toes with a perforated skimmer and spread upon flat dishes ; boil the syrup down until it begins to thicken; add just before you take it from the fire the juice of 3 lemons. Put the tomatoes in jars and pour over them the hot syrup, and when cold seal or tie up with thick paper. A pound of raisins may be put with this amount of tomatoes ; put in 15 minutes before taking up ; half ounce of ginger-root is an improve- ment. If the tomatoes are large, cut in quarters and let drain. Plum Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds round yellow tomatoes peeled, 7 pounds sugar and juice of 3 lemons; let them stand to- gether over night. Drain off the syrup and~ boil it, skimming well ; then put in the tomatoes and boil gently 20 minutes. , Take out the fruit with a skimmer, and spread on dishes. Boil th^ syrup down till it thickens, adding, just before you take it off the fire, the juice of the lemons. Put the fruit into jars and fill up with the hot syrup. When cold seal up. Ginger-root, three-fourths of an ounce, may be used PRESERVES AND JAMS. 451 with or in place of the lemons. A pound of raisins may be added also, but it is very nice without. Seal up hot. Toiuato Figs. — Take yellow or red plum tomatoes (yellow are the firmest). Prepare as above, using three-fourths of a pound of sugar to one of fruit. Let stand over night. The next morning drain off the syrup ; place over the fire and boil until clear ; add the toma- toes, and to every 7 pounds of these 4 ounces of ginger-root tied in a - muslin bag, the rind of 4 lemons which have been thinly pared and cooked for 10 minutes in water, and also the lemons, sliced thinly, with the white skin and seeds removed. Boil slowly for half an hour, lift out the fruit with a perforated skimmer and lay in the sun on shal- low dishes to harden while you boil down the; syrup until thick. Put the fruit in jars, pour the syrup over and seal. Small green tomatoes may be treated in the same way, pricking the skins with a fork. Green Tomato Preserves. — Seven pounds sugar, 8 pounds small green tomatoes, juice of 4 lemons, one-half ounce mace, one-half ounce ginger. Make a syrup of the sugar with a little hot water and put it on t6 boil with the mace and ginger and lemon juice. Prick the tomatoes with a fork and put them into the boiling syrup. Boil until the fruit is clear. Skim the fruit out of the syrup and pack it in jars. Let the syrup boil until thick, then pour it over the fruit. If the tomatoes are large, cut them around in halves, and then quarter the halves. This shape is preferable to slices. This will keep with- out sealing, but it is better to put it in small jars, as it is so rich that only a little is wanted at a time. Tomato Marmalade. — To 2 pounds of tomatoes allow 2 pounds of sugar and the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon ; scald the toma- toes, take off the skins, mix the sugar with them and boil them slowly for an hour, skimming and stirring ; add the juice and grated rind of the lemons, and boil another half hour, or till it is a thick, smooth mass. ¥ Tomato Butter. — One bushel ripe tomatoes, half bushel apples, 5 pounds brown sugar, 1 ounce allspice, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce cloves. Let it come to a boil. Add the apples peeled and cored. Let cook together, watching very carefully, more than half the day, then add the sugar. The juice must codk out of them, and it takes an entire day to cook properly. An hour before takings off add the spices. 452 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Melons. ' Watermelon Preserves. — Remove all the red part, pare the rinds, cut into 2-inch pieces and soak in weak alum water an hour. Some cooks soak over night in the aliim water. Now boil in clear water, or steam until a fork pierces the pieces easily. Make a syrup^of 1 pound of white sugar to a pound of fruit; add enough water to keep from burning; skim. Add the juice of 1 lemon to^every 3 pounds of fruit, and the peeled yellow rind of the lemon. Set back from the fire a moment while skimming ; violently boiling liquid cannot be skimmed. Boil the rinds in this syrup 1 hour, ot' until perfectly clear. Remove the lemon peel ; pack the fruit in jars and fill I up with the boiling syrup, and seal, or simply put in a jar and tie up when cold. One and a half pounds of sugar and 1 pound of fruit are used where the preserve is wished unusually fine. Soine housewives exercise great skill in cutting/ the watermelon rind in fancy shapes. Where this is to be done leave the rind in large pieces to soak in the alum water ; this toughens it slightly, and it is then time to do the artistic work. Great pains are taken wirh this in Virginia. Stars and cres- cents, rings, oak leaves, etc., can be easily formed, and the effect of the translucent gold and topaz forms through the crystal glass jars is beautiful. For leaves, take the leaf itself for a pattern, and trace its outline with an ivory point, and go over the veinings as well. Then with a sharp-pointed blade of a penknife cut out the shapes them- selves and cut deep into the veinings so that they will show plainly. The rings can be cut out with a cake cutter and the disks taken from the centre with a thimble. These disks make pretty balls to fill up spaces. Some cooks add ginger-root cut thin, and boil in the syrup. Muskmelon Preserves. — Take perfectly green muskmelons, as late in the season as possible. If preserved while the weather is very hot, they are apt to ferment. Scrape the outer skin off the rind. Cut them through the middle. Remove the seeds, and cut the melon in any shape preferred. Soak them in salt and water over night, then in clear water 4 or 5 hours, changing the water several times. Then soak in alum water an hour. Rinse and put over to cook in water enough to cover, with a handful of peach leaves (if convenient) to 5 / pounds of melon, and a tablespoonful of ginger tied up in a cloth. The peach leaves turn the melon green, besides adding to its flavor. PRESERVES AND JAMS. 453 Boil the melons until you can pierce them with a straw. Make a syrup of white sugar^ pound for pounds Add enough water to keep froni burning. Let boil and skim. Put in the fruit and the ginger, and boil it in the syrup as long as can be done without breaking the rinds. If there is not enough syrup to cover, add a little water. When cold tie up in jars. In the course of a week pour off the syrup, scald and turn back over the fruit. Add suiificient essence of lemon to flavor it before turning back into jars. A fresh lemon may be sliced into jars when cold; 1 lemon to 2 or 3 pounds of the melon. Muskmelon Butter. — ^Take very ripe melons, so ripe as to be soft ; cut them open, take out the seeds, then scrape the melon from the rind with a knife, and to every 2 gallons of melon take 2^ pounds of brown sugar. Put in a kettle and boil the same as apple butter. Flavor while hot with lemon. Good. Pineapples. ' Pineapple Preserves. — Peel and slice, and allow a pound of white sugar to each pound of the sliced fruit. Put fruit and sugar in alternate layers in jars and let it stand 12 or 14 hours. Take out the fruit in the morning, add to the syrup 1 cupful of water for each 4 pounds of pineapple. Boil the syrup until it thickens, skim, let cool. Put in the fruit, return to fire and boil verygentlylintil tender. Take it from the syrup and pack in jars, and turn the syrup over it. It can be sealed hot, or tied up in jars when cold. If there should be in this case the slightest signs of fermentation, turn ofif the syrup immediately, scald and turn back on the fruit. Grated Pineapple Preserves.— Preserved pineapple has all of the delicious flavor of the fruit, and besides being useful in all ways that ordinary preserves are useful, it is supremely good for filling in layer cakes. Take pound for pound of sugar and fruit. Shred the pineapple with a silver fork, after the eyes have been removed, until nothing is left but the core. The' core itself is tough and stringy, but it holds juice, and might be cooked to extract this, and then removed. Put fruit and sugar together, and cook slowly half an hour. Pineapple Marmalade. — Take ripe, juicy pineapples ; pare, cut out the specks, and grate on a coarse grater all but the core. Weigh and allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Cook from 20 minutes to half an hour. 454 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Rhubarb. Bhubarb Jam. — Cut the rhubarb in pieces 1 inch long, take sugar pound for pound. Mix together and let stand all night. In the morning pour off the syrup and boil until it begins to thicken ; skim ; add the rhubarb, and boil gently half an hour. Put up in tum- blers like-jelly. It will keep a longtime. To each quart of rhubarb 1 lemon can be added for flavor; juice and the outside yellow rind cut in bits. This can be tanned if wished. Bhubarb and Ginger Preserve.— Wash, peel and cut up a suffi- cient quantity of rhubarb, not too young. Weigh it, and to every pound of rhubarb allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar, which should be well crushed. Put all together in a large "pan and let it stand all night, next day put it in a preserving pan with 1 pound of ginger-root, chipped up. Boil 1 hour. Thi's makes an excellent preserve, the ginger giving it a nice flavor. Bhubarb and Fig Jam. — Five pounds of rhubarb, 6 pounds of sugar ; cut the rhubarb in small pieces, sprinkle with the sugar, and let stand all night ; chop pulp and peel of 3 lemons and 1 pound of figs quite fine; add to the rhubarb; boil several, hours until quite thick ; put in jars same as jelly; ^ Bhubarb Marmalade. — Peel 6 oranges, take away the white rinds and pips, slice the pulp and peel into a preserving kettle, cut very small ; add a quart of rhubarb (finely cut), and from 1 to 1 ^ pounds of sugar. Boil down, same as for other preserves. Excellent. Plums. Plum Preserves. — Select small purple plums, and be sure they are sound and not too ripe. Remove the stems, wash the fruit> and pierce each plum with a fork. Put into the kettle a cupful ,of water to every 6 pounds of fruit, and allow a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Place plums and sugar in the kettle in alternate layers, and boil slowly. The fruit must be closely watched, as it is apt to go to pieces in boiling. After it has boiled a short time remove from the kettle, and boil down the syrup. Plum preserves may be safely kept in a stone jar. Four quarts of plums make 3 quart jars of preserves. Plum Preserves. — II. The following rule is equally good for either damson or green-gage plums, the damsons being particularly PRESERVES AND JAMS. 45S nice to eat with meats. Make the, syrup for all the plums to be pre- served at one time, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and a gill of water to a pound of sugar. Boil for 10 minutes; then put in the syrup only enough plums to fill 2 or 3 jars. Cook until they can easily be pierced with a straw ; then can, and put fresh fruit into the boiling syrup. If there is any syrup left over from preserv- 'ing the plums, put in enough sugar to make it jell, and cook a little longer. This makes a delicious jeUy. Egg Plum Preserves. — Pour boiling water over them, cover, and let them steam ; uncover and pour water off; rub the skins off, throw them away, weigh the fruit and put in a stone jar. Make a syrup, allowing 1 pound of white sugar and half a teacupful of water to each pound of fruit ; let the sugar boil, then skim, pour the syrup over the plums and set them away. Next morning put all in a kettle and cook slowly 10 or 15 minutes ; return the fruit and juice to the jar and let stand until cold ; then fit a piece of white paper close over the fruit, cover the jar with a^ double cloth, then with setreral thick- nesses of paper, and keep in dark, cool place. Plum Jam. — Put the fruit, slightly broken, over the fire with- out any sugar. Set in a jar in a kettle of boiling water. It must be ripe and perfefct^ — nothing else is fit to use. When it gets soft, re- move it from the fire, take out all the pits, break them with a ham- mer, and tie the broken shells, kernels and all, in a bit of old muslin. Put the fruit on again, adding a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, after the pits have been removed. Drop in the bag of shells. Simmer for an hour, when it should be ready for putting into the jars. Plum Marmalade. — Scald and remove the skin of ripe plums ; take out the pits ; allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of fruit ; mix the sugar and let it stand half an hour, then cool; boil 20 minutes, then pour in small dishes and let stand to harden. Seal in glasses. Plum Butter.-r-Scald the plums until they crack open ; when cool, put them through a colander; measure the plums thus pre- pared, and add three-fourths the quantity of sugar ; season with any desired spice. Boihwell 3 hours, and it will not require sealing. Pliim Butter. — II. Plum butter is a pleasant accompaniment to cold meats, and is made as follows : Cook together until soft 4 quarts of plums previously scalded in soda water, and 4 quarts of crab- agiplcs, with suffident water to cover them. ?ress through a colander, 456 PRESERVES AND JAMS. and allow 1 quart of sugar to 3 pints of the pulp. Add a tablespoon- ful of cinnamon, a saltspoonful of cloves, and half a teacupful of good cider vinegar. Cook until thick and rich, stirring often to prevent its scorching. Brandied Plums. — Make plum preserves by the second or third rule here given, add 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy to each quart can of fruit. Pack\the fruit in cans and fill up with syrup. Oherries. Cherry Preserves. — Make a syrup, using pound for pound of sugar. Moisten the sugar with the jujce of the cherries. Let this syrup come to a boil ; skim. Put in the fruit. Let boil until tender. Skim out care- fully, put in glass or stone jars, filling about two-thirds full. Boil down the syrup and fill the jars up with it. Cherry Marmalade. — Seed the fruit,, add poun^ for pound of sugar. Boil gently, stir- ring and beating to make smooth. When done, put up in glasses like jelly. Brandied Cherries. — Make a syrup of a J _ pound of sugar and half a gill of water for _. _^ every 2 pounds, of fruit. Heat to boiling, Onerry Stoner. i- • ^ ^ t. ■ ■ ' J^ stirnng to prevent burnmg, pour over the fruit while warm, not hot. Let them stand together an hour. Put all into a preserving kettle and heat slowly, boil 5 minutes, take out with a perforated skimmer and boil the syrup 20 minutes. Add one- half pint brandy to the syrup for every 6 pounds of fruit, and pour over the cherries hot and sejd. Oranges. Orange Preserves- — Take equal weights of tart oranges and sugar. Grate the yellow rind from one-fourth of the oranges ; cut all the fruit in halves. Pick out the pulp and free it from s^ds. 'Drain oif as much juice as you conveniently can, and put it on to boil with the sugar. Let it come to a boil, skim and simmer for 15 minutes, then put in the pulp and the grated rind and boil for 15 minutes longer. Put into glass tumblers or jars and seal the same as PRESERVES AND JAMS. 457 fruit jelly. Always put the preserves into tumblers or small jars, thereby doing away with the necessity of disturbing a larger quantity than is needed. Orange Marmalade. — English people always have piarmalade of some description upon their breakfast table. Weigh the fruit before cutting it and allow three-quarters of a pound of granulated sugar to a pound of fruit. Allow the rind and juice of 3 lemons to a dpzen oranges. Remove the peel in quarters and boil it in plenty of water until it is tender ; drain off the water and let the peel cool. Remove the seeds and white skin from the pulp, place the pulp in a porcelain kettle with the sugar, and cook until it is quite thick. When the peel is cool place a number of pieces together and with a sharp knife cut them into thin shreds. When all are cut, add them to the cooked orange and mix thoroughly. Cool a little of the mixture in a saucer, and when it is as thick as required pour into jelly glasses. When it is Cold, cover. liemon Marmalade. — Six lemons sliced very thin, taking out the seeds. To each pound of sliced fruit add 3 pints of cold water ; let this stand 24 hours. Then boil it until" the chips are tender, pour into an earthen bowl and allow it to remain until next day. Then weigh it, and to every pound of boiled fruit add lyi pounds of loaf sugar. Boil together till the syrup jellies and the chips are transparent. Berries. Blackberry Preserves. — Put the berries in a porcelain kettle, al- lowing a cupful of water to each quart of the fruit, and let it simmer till tender. Then add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of berries, let it boil up, skim carefully, and it is ready for the cans. Blackberry Jam. — ^Three-fourths of a pound of sugar to a pound of berries. Rinse the fruit and put in the preserving kettle, stir con- stantly until part of the juice is evaporated, then add the sugar and simmer to a fine jam. This will be found better than putting the sugar in first; the seeds are not as hard in this case. A pint of cur- rant juice to every 5 pounds is an improvement to the flavor. Pour in glasses ; dip white paper in brahdy and lay on the jam. Then seal with paper like jelly. The brandied paper is not absolutely neces- sary. Mark the jars on outside as to what the contents are. 458 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Brandies Blackberries. — For brandied blackberries, make a syrup of half a teacup of blackberry juice to a pound of sugar. Al- low a half pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Let the syrup boil up. Add the blackberries to the syrup ; let them cook rapidly for about 20 minutes. Remove them from the fire, add one-half cup- ful brandy to each quart, and bottle them. Very healthful in the summer. Kasplberry Jam. — Make precisely like Blackberry Jam. Use either black or red raspberries. Red Baspberries In Currant Jelly. — ^A new and attractive con- serve. Take equal quantities of red raspberries and red currants. Heat the currants on the stems in a porcelain kettle, bruising a few to start the juice ; then squeeze a few at a time through a cloth strainer till the juice is extracted. Measure the juice, and for every pipt put in the oven 2 teacupfuls' of granulated sugar. Boil the juice 10 min- utes, then add the raspberries, and at the end of 20 minutes, the sugar.- Let the mixture boil from 3 to 5 minutes, then turn into cups or bowls. Raspberry Preserves. — Make same as Blackberry Preserves. Strawberry Preserves. — Pound for pound ; rinse the berries, and put with sugar in a preserving kettle over a slow fire unlil the sugar melts. Boil rapidly 25 minutes. Take but the fruit with a skimmer, and fill cans two-thirds full. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer; skim ; fill up the jars. Seal hot and keep in a cool, dry place. Strawberry Jam. — Make same as raspberry jam, omitting the currant juice ; use white sugar. Strawberries are the first fruit to be put up, and as they have the entire neated term to go through, must be carefully watched. Whole Crooseberry Preserves. — For every quart of gooseberries, take 1 pound of granulated sugar, and dissolve it in the preserving, kettle with as much water as it will take to make a syrup. Let it boil for 20 minutes, skimming well ; then put in the gooseberries, and boil 5 minutes ; then set by till the next day, when boil again until they have a clear look and the syrup is thick. Put up in jelly glasses, with brandied paper on top. Gooseberry Jam. — Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to turn. Stem, wash and weigh. To 4 pounds, of fruit add half a tea- ciup of water ; boil until soft, and add 4 pounds of sugar and boil until clear. If packed at the right stage the jam will be amber- PRESERVES AN© JAMS. 469 colored and firm, and very much nicer than if the fruit is preserved when ripe. Barberry Preserves. — ^Take ripe barberries, leaving them on the stem. Make a pound for pound syrup, putting in half cupful of water to each pound of sugar; let boil up and skim. Drop in the barberries, letting the syrup cool partially first. Boil until thoroughly penetrated by the syrup. Tie up in glass jars. A very ornamental preserve. Preserved barberries mixed with cold water forms a re- freshing drink, and is especially good in fevers. Barberry Jam. — Free the berries from stems and allow an equal weight of sugar. Put them in the preserving kettle with just water enough to cover. Let them cook slowly, and when the -juice is drawn out, add the sugar and simmer, stirring often. Turn into small jars and cover with paper. If the seeds are objectionable, the jam should be strained before adding the sugar. Preserved Huckleberries (for Pies). — Use firm, large, ripe fruit, picking over carefully. Put them in a large stone jar and cover them with good, 30und molasses. Set them in a cold place in the cellar, seal them up, and do not disturb till cold weather, when they may be opened and the berries used from time to time, being kept undeir the simple earthen cover of the jar. A cup of vinegar to a quart of molasses is certainly an addition. Pies made from huckleberries put up in this way are a great deal better than those made from dried fruit or fruit canned in a more elaborate way. Drain from the mo- lasses before using. Huckleberry Preserves. — ^Two gallons of berries picked from the stems; 5 pounds of sugar; 1 pint of strong vinegar. Stew down thick. They will keep without canning. Elderberry Preserves. — Make same as huckleberry preserves., Very healthful. Cranberry Preserves. — ^Take pound for pound of fruit and sugar. Put a little water in the bottom of the preserving kettle and boil until tender. Currant Preserves'. —Make same as raspberry preserves. Use pound for pound, boiling a little longer. Currant Jam (Bed or White). — Make same as blackberry jam! For white currants use pound for pound of pulverized sugar. Stir and mash frequently. Seal hot, if wished. 460 PRESERVES AND JAMS. Currant and Baisiu Jam. — Take 3 pounds of sugar, 1 pound of raisins, S}4 pounds of currants, 1 orange and 1 pint of water, Cut the raisins in two and seed them, then cook them for 1 hour or niore in the pint of water. Pick over the currants, and put them on to cook in the preserving kettle. Add the orange juice and cook for 15 minutes after the fruit begins to boil. Remove the seeds from the orange, and after chopping the pulp and peel very fine, rub through the sugar. When the currants have been boiling for 15 minutes, add the other ingredients to them and cook for 15 minutes longer. Put into jelly glasses, and when cold cover. This quantity will fill 12 glasses. Baisin Jam.— Wash and seed 1 pound of large sweet raisins ; put them on to cook with half a pound of sugar, 1 cup of water and half a grated nutmeg. Cook until thick ; when cold it is ready to seal. Sweet Potato Preserves. — Make syrup as for peaches. Pavboil the potatoes, first, cutting in round slices, and boil in syrup until clear. Tutti Frutti Preserves. — Put a quart of brandy in a two-gallon Jar ; then, as they come into market, add 1 pint bowl of strawberries and the same of sugar ; then cherries in the same way, and black- berries, peaches, pears, currants, pineapples, bananas, oranges ; one- half pint of lemons and 1 pint of sugar. Remember to always put in the sugar eyery.time you put in the fruit, and stir well from the bot>. tomofthejar. A double quantity of peaches maybe added, if. de- sired. Keep in a cool place, well covered. Do not mash berries or fruit. Prepare large fruit as for preserves, quartering, peeling. Add, if possible, 1 bowl of black cherries to improve the color. Ready in a week after last fruit is put in. , Cucumber Preserves. — Gather young cucumbers a little longer than your middle finger, and lay in strong brine 1 week. Wash them, and soak them 1 day and night in fair water, dianging this 4 times. Line a bell-metal kettle with vine leaves, lay in the cucum- bers, with a little alum scattered among them; fill up with clear water, cover with vine leaves, then with a close lid, and green, as for pickles. Do not let them boil. When well greened, drop in ice water. When perfectly cold, wip6, and with a small knife slit down one side ; dig out the seeds ; stuff with a mixture of chopped raisins PRESERVES AND JAMS. 461 and citron ; sew up the incision with fine thread. Weigh them, and make a syrup, allowing a pound of sugar for every one of cucumbers, with a pint of water. Heat to a lively boil, skim, and drop in the fruit. Simmer half an hour, take out, spread upon a dish in the sun, while you boil down the syrup, with a few slices of ginger root added. When thick, put in the cucumbers again, simmer 5 minutes, and put in glass jarsj tying them up when cold. An odd, and also a singu- larly delicious sweetmeat. ' .", Fig Preserves. — Take the weight in sugar of the quantity of figs to be preserved ; the figs must be ripe. Cover the figs with cold water for 12 hours; then simmer in water enough to cover them until tender, and spread out upon a sieve to cool and harden. Make a syrup of the sugar, a cup of cold water being allowed for every pound. Boil until clear of scum, put in the figs, and simmer for 10 minutes. Take them out and spread upon the dishes in the sun. Add the lemons and the ginger ; boil the syrup thick, give the figs another boil of 15 minutes, and fill the jars three-quarters of the way up to the top. Then fill up with boiling syrup, cover, and when cold, seal up. Prune Preserves. — Pour boiling water on the prunes, and set where they will keep warm. When swelled to the original size, put to each pound of the prunei one-half pound of brown sugar, and 1 stick of cinnamon. If there is not enough water reniaining to cover the prunes, add more, and stew in this syrup one-fourth of an hour. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon to every 3 pounds of prunes. Do this just before removing from the fire. Pit the prunes. Preserved Walnuts and Prunes. — Shell 24 walnuts, divide them into halves. Take 1 pound of prunes, soak over night, and remove the stones. Save the water in which they have been soaked, to which add 1 cup of sugar. Boil for a moment and skim.. Then add the walnuts and prunes. Cover, and stand on the back part of the stove for at least 30 minutes, until the syrup is thick and dark, the prunes tender, and the walnuts soft. Serve cold, as other preserves. Apricot Preserves.^Pare the apricots, which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, break them in half, and remove the stones ; weigh- the fruit, and to every pound allow the same of sugar; strew it oyer the apricots, which should be placed on dishes and allowed to remain for 12 hours ; break the stones, blanch the kernels, and put them with 462 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the fruit and sugar in a preserving pan ; let simmer very gently for about three-quarters of an hour; take out the pieces of apricot, boil this syrup a little longer, and as fast as the scum arises remove it; put the apricots into jars, poui over them the syrup and kernels, and cover in the usual way. Pumpkin Preserves. — Divide, peel, and rernove the seeds ; cufr in small, square pieces. For each pound of the pumpkin to be pre- served, take 1 pound of pulverized or granulated sugar. Put the pumpkin in a deep dish with alternate layers of sugar sprinkled thickly over the top. Pour in lemon juice, one-half cupful to 1 pound of pumpkin. Let stand 24 hours. Then boil the whole together, with one-half pint of water to every 3 pounds of pumpkin, 1 table- spoonful of ginger, tied in a cloth, and the peel of the lemons Shred- ded. When the pumpkin is tender, put in jars. In a few days pour off the syrup, boil up, and pour over the pumpkin hot. Very nice. . Vinegar may be substituted for the lemon juice, in whixrh case a lemon may be sliced in the preserves when cold. Preserved Squash. — First peel the squash and cut it in pieces an inch thick and 4 inches long. Put it over the fire with cold water till it comes to a boil, and let it boil a few minutes. Then turn oft tlie water and put a piece of cinnamon and a clove in each piece, and then put the squash in Stone jars. Then boil a quart of vinegar, a pint of water and 2 pounds of sugar together and put this brine> boiling, over the squash. Then turn off the brine three days in suc- cession and boil it over again and put it boiling over the squash, same as the first time. Then when cold put it in glass jars. Persimmon Preserves. — Select firm, ripe persimmons, and take the equivalent of their weight in sugar. Let the persimrnons lie in cold water for 12 hours. Put them on the fire in enough water to cover them and stew gently until tender. Remove, drain and spread them out to become cool and firm. Make a syrup by adding a cup. ful of cold water to every pound of sugar and boiling until clear, skimming constantly. When clear, put in the persimmons and cook 10 minutes. Take them out, spread again upon dishes and set these in the sun. Add the juice and peel of a couple of lemons to the syrup, boil it thick, return the persimmons to it, cook 20 minutes more, poHr into glass jars. Seal when cold. PRESERVES AND JAMS. 463 Fruits Dried in Sugar. Figged Peaches. — Pare, halve and seed them ; then boil, until tender, in water just sufficient to cover them, as many of the halves as will lie comfortably on the bottom of a preserving kettle^ — they must not crowd nor boil too long nor hard, for fear of tea:ring apart or becoming over soft. Sprinkle them with plenty of sugar while boiling. When tender put the peaches on platters and set them out in the sun to remain until they are thoroughly dried and figged, then pack away in jars or boxes, with sugar sprinkled between each layer. Peach Leather. — ^To each pound of ripe peaches allow one-fourth pound of granulated sugar, wipe, but do not pare the peaches, remove the stones, add the sugar and cook slowly, stirring and mashing all the while until dry enough to spread in thin sheets on oiled paper on boards, or well-greased brown paper. Have the sheet not over one- sixteenth of an inch thick. Stand in the sun to dry, and when dry lift like a sheet of leather, put it on a baking-board and with a' rolling- pin roll lightly until it is perfectly even. Now roll it up as you would a roll of noodles. Wrap it in wax paper, put away in a ^in box, and when ready to use cut thin slices from the end, allowing it to remain in the roll. A nice addition to after-dinner sweets. Dried Peaches. — Halve the fruit, remove the stones, fill the cavi- ties with white sugar and dry in a moderate oven. The fruit, if first- class peaches are used, will be found delicious, alniiost equal when stewed to preserves, and far more healthful and economical. Dried Plums. — Plums may be dried with the stones in, to retain the full plum flavor, or the pits may be removed and the cavities filled with sugar. Put them on plates in the sun, sprinkling with sugar and turning often. _The finish may be made in a cool oven. Dried Peaches, Pluma and Apples.— Pit, peel and cut to suit; dry partly and then pack them in jars, spreading sugar thickly be- tween the layers. Tie down and they will keep well and be delicious for pies or sauce. They may also be dried without sugar. Tomato Figs.— Allow half a pound of coffee^sugar to every pound of tomatoes. The yellow plum tomatoes, or the very small and per- fectly smooth red ones, are preferred for this method of preserving. Put the sugar on the stove with just water enough to melt it. As soon as it boils, put the tomatoes in whole with the skins on. Draw 464 PRESERVES AND JAMS. the kettle back where they will simmer gently. Cook until trans- parent, about 2 hours. Skim them out carefully, and drain off all the syrup. Spread them on platters to dry, in the sun, if possible. Sprinkle a little sugar over them while drying, and the next day turn them, and sprinkle again with sugar. Do so for 2 or 3 days. When suffi- ciently dry, pack in boxes. Seven pounds of tomatoes will maike 2 quarts of figs. - Home-iuade Citron. — Take watermelon rind, trim o|£, the green outside, cut in thin slices and stew with an equal quantity of .sugar, cooking until the syrup thickens. Then dry on plates in the sun or moderate oven. Keep in close jar. Bottle the syrup, and use for flavoring. Use in fruit cake same as citron. Dried Crooseberries. — ^To 7 pounds of red gooseberries add 1)4 pounds of sugar. Let them stand over night, or 24 hours, mixed with the sugar. Then scald until they break. Dried Currants, Blackberries, Baspberries and Cherries. — Dry in the same manner as gooseberries. Use more sugar' if desired. Cherries can be dried without sugar. Dried Pumpkin. — Prepare a large kettleful as for stewing. Let boil briskly until all th^ water has evaporated, then let boil slowly, stirring often until very dry and beginning to brown slightly. Put on plates in a moderate oven to dry. Hang up in a close-tied paper bag. When wanted for use take a piece the size of an egg and put it in a quart of warm milk over night. Pineapple Chips.^Select large, perfectly sound pines ; pare them and cut into very thin slices. Weigh and allow 1 pound of sugar to fech pound of pineapple. Put these slices on platters and strew over the sugar. Stand them in a warm place (like a drying closet) for a week. Turn the fruit every day until dry. . Now put them in a hot oven for 10 minutes. When cool put them away in tin boxes^with waxed paper between. This will keep all winter. Orang'e Clii^s.^ — Cut the oranges in quarters and carefully squeeze all juice through a sieve. Soak the peel in water, and the next day boil until tender. Drain and slice the peel, put it into the juice, weigh as much sugar and put all together into a broad earthen dish. • Place over the fire at a moderate distance, often stirring till the chips candy and then put them in a cold room to dry. They will be sufficiently dry in three weeks. , ^^ Jellies may be covered with waxed paper, brandied paper or more readily and ' eflficiently by pouring over the top of the jelly, when quite cold, enough melted paraffin to exclude the air. This hardens at once, may be readily removed when the jelly is to be used and is capable of being re-used for an indefinite number of times. Any cheap paper may then be put over the top of the tumbler or jar to protect from dust. The paraffin is a clear white wax, odorless and tasteless, perfectly pure and harmless in every way. Egg paper, or white paper dipped in the whites of &%g, is very good. Use one or more of these. It not only excludes the air, but at the same time it cements itself to the glass. Put a small rubber band around the paper to hold in place until dry. Keep all preserves, jellies and canned fruits in a cool, dark, dry place. The fruits most commonly used for jelly are strawberries, cur- rants, apples, peaches, crabapples, quinces and raspberries. Of these, crabapple and quince jelly most easily ; strawberries and raspberries are the hardest to manage. If you find jellies are becoming candied, put a layer of pulverized sugar a quarter of an inch deep on the top, under the paper, and it will keep in good condition for years. Jelly may be prevented from moulding by the same process. Any fruit jelly may be easily removed from the mould by setting it in water as hot as your hand will bear fpr a few minutes. The jelly looks much bet- ter when turned out in this way. "^ A rose geranium leaf dropped in the jelly glass before pouring in hot apple jelly, will lend a delicious and unusual flavor to what, is a rather tasteless compound. The leaf will soon float to the top, bpt let it remain till the jelly is wajited for use. Still another flavor may be obtained by using lemon verbena leaves in the same way. Serviceable jelly glasses may be made of bottles. Take a good strong string (one-third of a clothes line after it is untwisted will do), dip in kerosene, and tie around the bottle where you want it to break. Light, and as it burns the glass will break. COOK— 30 465 4«0 JELLIES. For good jelly, the fruit must be quite fresn, not over-ripe or under-ripe, first because it will not easily jelly under those circum- stances, and is, if under-ripe, too acid to give a pleasant taste. Neither should the fruit be gathered immediately after a rain. Jelly should never stop boiling until done. Strawberry jelly may be made in small quantities when there is too much juice left from canning them. Jelly, if wanted very clear, may be strained before putting in glasses. ^ Use a flannel bag, make it pointed in shape^ Let drip slowly through, and do not squeeze or stir. Hang the bag near the stove, as this will prevent the jelly thickening. Another way to seal up jellies or jams is by using a paste made by stir- ring 1 teaspoonful of flour in 2 of colrf water ; when mixed perfectly smooth and free from lumps, add more cold water until it is so thin that it runs freely. Cut thin brown paper round and an inch larger than the top of the glass or jar; dip it in the paste until JeUy Moulds. y^^^ thoroughly, then put over the glass or jar, pressing it down tightly ; when dry it will be entirely air-tight and the fruit will keep perfectly.' A rubber, ring will hold it in place while drying. Before fruit is set away it should be labeled. The name written in ink on white paper and pasted on the side of the glass, jar or can is most convenient. Five drops of glycerine added tbjeach ounce of flour paste used for putting the labels on glass or tin will make them adhere and eflectually prevent them from curling up and coming off ! General Rule for Jellies.- — ^The requisites for jelly-making are a good quality stone jar, capable of containing, say 2 gallons of fruit ; a large pan, in which the jar can stand upion the range ; an earthen dish of large size, into which the fruit juice may drip ; two long- handled wooden spoons, a coarse cloth jelly bag, which is best made of loosely woven white flannel of good quality ; several shallow tins, in which to heat the sugar in the oveh; and a full assortment of jelly glasses. JELLIES. 46% First (these are the rules for making currant jelly) currants should be washed and stemmed. Put the fruit in the stone jar, crush it with a potato-masher, set the jar, covered, in the large pan of water. Have a very hot fire in the range. Let the water boil until the friiit is re- duced to a pulp. Put the fruit by cupfuls in the jelly bag (or a coarse towel will answer). Close the bag and press out the juice into the earthen dish with the wooden spoon. Another excellent way of getting the juice out of the bag is to suspend the latter from a hook in some convenient shelf, and then to squeeze the bag between two spoons. When two or three portions of pulp have been handled, the bag should be turned inside out and the J'liceless pulp thrown away, as otherwise the bag will get clogged and the juice will cease to flow freely. Measure the juice and put in a stone jar, or a preserving kettle. To each pint of juice allow a pound of sugar, and while the juice is boiling measure out the sugar into several different portions, putting it into the shallow tins and placing these tins within the oven to heat. Stir the sugar occasionally to prevent scorching, and line the tins with light-brown paper. The juice should be boiled 20 minutes — 20 minutes from the time it com- mences to boil. Skim thoroughly and add the heated sugar by cup- fuls, stirring constantly. Then let it come to a boil and remove from the range. Fill the jelly glasses full and allow the jelly to cool be- fore sealing. If the jelly does not set at once, stand the glasses in a sunny window. . '= Blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, cherry, grape and cranberry jellies are made in exactly the same way — a pint of juice to a pound of sugar, and the fruits boiled to a pulp and strained through a bag. Blackberry, grape and cranberry need nothing but their own .flavors, but in the case of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, some slight ad- dition is needed. With the strawberry the juice of 1 lemon should be added for each pint of the strawberry juice. This lemon juice should be put in just after straining and before .the strawberry juice is boiled. For cherry jelly the same quantity of lemon is necessary. For raspberry, add one-third the quantity of currant juice, prepared in precisely the same manner. Sweet apples will not jelly. "Apple JeUy. — For this use tart, juicy apples, wiping them with a damp cloth. Quarter the fruit and cut aVay all defective parts, but a««*4»er peel nor core them. Place the apples in a preserving kettle 468 jellies: and almost cover them with cold water. Let them stew, to ^ j/ulp. Turn into a cheese-cloth bag and hang this over an earthehware bowl for several hours — ^all night, if convenient. Measure the juice, return it to the preserving kettle- and heat it ; skim. Boil the juice 5 min- utes, and then to every pint of liquid add three-fourths of a pound of sugar that has bepn heated in the oven. When the sugar is melted try the jelly by dropping a little on a c^old dish. If it congeals it is ready to mould ; if not, bpil and try again until it is of proper con- sistency, when it may be turned into bowls and sealed. For dessert turn it into a pudding dish and pour cold boiled custard or sweetened whipped cream about it. The- pulp, stewed with white sulgar, can be used for jam puddings, or is very nice put into a glass dish, covered thickly with sugar, then a layer of thinly-sliced sponge cake, and a nice custard poured over all. The juice of half a dozen lemons to 1 peck of apples gives a delicious flavor to the jelly. Even 3 lemons to the same amount of apples is a great improvement. Be carefnl not to squeeze the pulp, or the jelly will not be as clear as it otherwise would be. Red Apple Jelly. — A beautiful jelly can be made of red apples fay washing and halving the apples, but not paring or coring them. Cider Apple Jelly. — Take apples ; wipe and slice them ; use seeds, skins and all ; cook soft in cider enough to cover them ; strain through ,cloth laid in sieve; add a pound of sugar to pint of juice and boil up a few minutes. Economical Apple Jelly. — In large families,^ when paring apples for pies or sauce, wash the apples beforehand, and then take the par- ings and the perfect cores, put into a saucepan, fill with water just to cover them and let boil half or three-quarters of an hour ; then strain; add as much sugar as juice and boil it fast for 20 minutes. Add a little vinegar or lemon juice for flavoring ; put in glasses, and the result will be a nice, inexpensive jelly, especially useful where there are children and lunches to put up. Quince JeUy. — Peel, quarter and core the quinces, cover with . cold water and cook to a pulp. Put in a jelly bag and let it drip through, but do not squeeze ; measure the juice, put on a fire and boil 20 minuteSw Then, adding a pound of sugar to every pint, let boil 2 or 3 minutes.. First, heat the sugar. Take up in glasses, cover and set in a cool, dry place. In making quince jelly be sure and re- JELLIES. 469 move the seeds from the fruit, or the jelly will be ropy. Take the pulp left in the jelly bag and squeeze out all the juice. Put 1 large cupfyl of sugar to each pint of the juice. Boil and skim. Put in glasses. It will be good jelly, but not clear as the first. Or the pulp may be made into, a marmalade by adding one-half pound of sugar to each pound of the, fruit pulp. Boil it down until thick and smooth. Quince and Apple Jelly. — Cut sma:Il and core an equal amount of tart apples and quinces. Boil the quinces until soft in water enough to cover them. Then add the apples and boil together, adding more water if needed, until all is a pulp. Put in. a jelly-bag and strain without pressing. Boil 15 or 20 minutes, and to each pint of liquid add 1 pound of sugar and boil 5 minutes, or until it will " set " or jelly when a little is dropped on a cold plate. Ripe Grape Jelly. — Stem, wash, put in a stone jar, stand the jar in a kettle of boiling water, and boil until the grapes are soft. Strain through a jelly-bag. Allow granulated sugar pound for pound, boil 20 or 30 minutes, add the sugar, which should have been heated, and boil 5 minutes longer. Pour in glasses. Seal when cold. Grape and Apple JeUy. — Stem the grapes, and prepare for straining as above. At the same time quarter and core, but not pare, juicy, tart apples. Cook and press out the juice, same as for apple jelly. When the juice has been expressed from l^both apples and grapes, take one-third apple juice to two-thirds grape juice. Boil two quarts only of this mixture at a time. Twenty mi uutes from the time the juice begins to boil, add gradually 8 teacupfuls of granulated sugar, which was heating in a Very hot oven while the juice was boiling. Boil 5 minutes, then pour into jelly-cups. Seal when cold. Mild grapes make a delicious jelly. . Green Grape JeUy.^Pick the grape^ from the stems and put them into a jar that holds about 2 quarts and a pint of cold water. Place this jar in a vessel of boiling water, and leave until the fruit is thoroughly scalded. Mash the fruit with a potato masher while scalding, to extract the juice faster. Let strain through a flannel jelly-bag. ■ Measure the juice, and allow a pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Put the juice over the fire to boil in a porcelain-lined kettle and the sugar in fhd oven to heat. Stir the sugar and the juice occasionally. When the juice has boiled down 20 minutes, add the 470 JELLIES. Melon Mould. sugar, and after one moment's boiling the jelly should be ready to put into bowls. Test it by cooling a little on ice, and if it has not " come," boil it a moment or two longer. If the grapes are gathered at exactly the right time, this jelly will not have a tinge of purple about it ; if it is not already the right color, it may be made the exact color of the Malaga grape by a few drops of spinach green added juSt before the jelly is ready for the bowls and after the color has been tested. By putting in a handful of ripe fruit, it will make it a delicate pink color. This green-grape jelly can be made from the cultivated varieties, but the wild grape is best of all, especially the wild fox grape. Siberian Crabapple Jelly. — Remove the stems and blossom- ends. Cut out any defects, and put over to boil, with just enough water to cover. Stew slowly until almost a pulp. Strain and squeeze very lightly. The best way is t(^ put in a jelly bag and let drip over an earthen dish afl night. In the morning boil the juice 20 minutes, skim, measure, and , then add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of the juice. Let boil 3 or 5 minutes, and put in glasses. Heat the sugar before using. This is a jelly that never fails. It is excellent for cake and to serve with desserts^ but it is not as suitable to serve with meats as are red and black currant, damson and barberry jellies. Spiced Crabaijple Jelly. — To 5 pounds of apples 1 pint of water, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of all kinds of spices; whole ^. ^ ,_^^ cloves and stick cinnamon are better- than ftm^ —iwgea ^IfZ^ ground; stew 5. or 6 hours, then let it Kr-i^=suB£iBi^M» stand pver night; then strain and add rf ^B as much sugar as juice. Boil 30 minutes. ^ ^^ '^^ * Currant Jelly. — See " General Rule for Jellies." For straining the,fruit in the jelly-bag, the simplest and easiest way is to reverse a common four-legged stool, take a good-sized square piece of flannel,^ secure firrrily the four corners to the four legs, allowing considerable dip in the centre, and stand a clean earthenware bowl*below this -bag, on the inverted seat. Put well-mashed fruit into this, and leave it out of Jelly Mould. JELLIES. 471^ harm's way for the juice to drain through. Do not attempt to squeeze it, or you will cloud your jelly ; keep your " squeezings " for a jelly of second quality. Some cooks simply pick over the currants care- fully, not even stemming them (wash if gritty), mash with a potato masher, and then strain all night in a flannel bag. Uncooked Currant Jelly. — Prepare the fruit as above, mashing and straining the fruit raw. Put the juice in a stone jar, add granu- lated sugar in the proportion of pouhd for pound, with the juice, stirring constantly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Dip out or strain into tumblers ; let stand until it stiffens, and cover with egg- paper. A very nice way. White Currant Jelly. — ^Make as above, straining, not squeezing the fruit, to prevent discoloration of the juice. Proceed same as for Uncooked Jelly. Seal up with egg-paper. In several weeks the jelly will harden perfectly and be very clear. Blackberry Jelly, — ^Use fruit picked before it is dead ripe. Part of it should be red. Make the jelly precisely the same as currant jelly, except that three-fourths of a pound of sugar is sufficient for 1 pint of juice. Blackberry Table Jelly. — Stew the berries, crush, and strain out the juice, as above. -After it is cool, soak 1 box of gelatine in a pint of juice, sweeten to the taste, add a quart of boiling water, and strain into moulds. It is served with whipped cream, is very pleasihg in appearance, and delicious to the taste, but is not especially nutritive. Raspberry and Currant Jelly. — A jelly much prized for its peculiar delicate flavor can be made by taking equal quantities of currants and red raspberries and putting them through the strainer together. Then proceed with the juice as though it were of pure currants. Raspberry JeUy. — Crush the raspberries without scalding, strain, and proceed as for blackberry jelly. Do not have the raspberries over ripe. Cranberry Jelly.-=-One and a half pounds of berries ; 1 pint of water ; cook thoroughly ; strain through a jelly-bag. Cook the juice 15 minutes ; skim ; add as much sugar as there is j\jice. Boil agiain 15 minutes, and pour into jelly glasses. Bbubarb or Pie-plant Jelly.— Cut into nice lengths 7 pounds of good rhubarb, -without peeling; put it in the preserving pan with 472 JELLIES. 1 breakfast cupful of cold water; allow it to simmer gently -until all juice is extracted ; then give it a rapid boil, and run it through the jelly-bag ; to each pint. of juice add 1 pound of white sugar. When the sugar melts boil it for 10 or- 15 minutes. Then try it by cooling on ice, or dropping a spoonful on a cold plate. If boiled too long, there is danger of it becoming syrupy. A delicious jelly. Rhubarb and Apple Jelly. — ^^Peel and cut up 1 good-sized bun- dle of rhubarb; peel, core and quarter 3 pounds of apples, the thin rind and the juice of half a dozen lemons; put all togethei" into the preserving kettle with 1 }^ pints of water. Boil until reduced to a pulp ; strain the juice through a jelly strainer, weigh, and allow 1 pound of loaf sugar to every pound of juice. Boil up the juice, add the sugar, boil, skim well, and when it jellies on the slimmer, pour into glasses, and when cold tie or seal down. Orange Jellyr^ — Peel the oranges and run them through a fruit- presS) if you have one ; if not; cut the oranges in two crosswise and*^ rub the juice and pulp through a sieve. A lemon-:;squeezer or any device of that kind will not do, as the pulp must be taken with the juice. If you have 2 quarts of juice, and pulp, cook it down to 3 pints, then add sugar pound for pint, and treat as any other jelly. Of course Oval Jelly Mo^Ud. ^^ j^ understood that as little as possible of the whitd portion of the orange will be allowed in it, as that makes it bitter. The jelly glasses should be kept dark by wrapping in paper. Plum JeUy. — Take sound plums, remove the stems arid make an incision in each one to cause the juice to start quicker. Put th? fruit in a stone jar, cover, stand in kettle of cold water. Let the water boil around it for an hour, and the plums should have by that time the juice drawn out thoroughly. Strain through a flannel bag. Let drip several hours^ or press lightly in a fruit-press, or with wooden spoons. If you wish the jelly very clear do not press very much. Measure three-quarters of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Put the sugar to heat in the oven, boil the juice over the fire. When the juice has boiled 25 minutes add the sugar. Test the jelly as soon as it boils again, and as soon as it forms a jelly, pour it into glasses. Some cooks crack a few of the pits and stew with the plums ; this gives a pleasant flavor. If the plums are not squeezed in straining the juice, JELLIES. 473 the pulp may be made into a nice marmalade by adding three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of the pulp, and cooking until it thickens. Wild Plum Jelly. — Wash the fruit and boil in water enough to cover until the plums are a pulp. Strain, weigh the jujce, add three- quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of juice, and make same as above rule. Do not squeeze the pulp — simply strain off the juice and make marmalade of the remainder. Tomato Jelly. — Peel the tomatoes and squeeze through a cloth, or stew and strain ; weigh the j uice and add pound for pound of white sugar. Boil to a jelly and seal up. Keep in a cool, dry place. Flavor with lemon-juice if wished. This is an excellent article. Serve with roast meat. Savory Tomato JeUy. — To a can of tomatoes add a sprig of pars- ley, bay leaf, 4 cloves stuck in an onion, pepper and salt. Let boil till soft. Remove spices, add 1 ounce of gelatine already softened, and a dash of lemon-juice. Strain, rubbing as much pulp through as pos- sible, put in mould. Serve it, when set, with celery mayonnaise, cold-slaw, lettuce salad, or anything that sliced tomatoes would be offered with. • y ' Pear Jelly. — Pear jelly is made exactly like quince, but requires a little longer boiling after the sugar is added. Peach Jelly. — Crack one-third of the kernels and put them in the jar with the peaches, which should be pared, stoned and sliced. Heat in a pot of boiling water, stirring from time tb time until the fruit is well broken. Strain, and to every pint of peach juice add the juice of a lemon. Measure again, allowing a pound of sugar to a pint of liquid. Heat the sugar very hot and add when the juice has boiled 20 minutes ; skim. Let it come to a boil and take instantly from the fire, Delicious for jelly cake. Strawberry Jelly. — Select berries that are rather under than over ripe. Put the berries into a stone jar, stand it in a kettle of cold water, cover the top of the jar, and boil slowly for 1 hour, or until the berries are quite soft, but not broken to any extent. Run through a jelly bag without pressing. If the-juice is not perfectly clear, strain again through muslin. Measure, and to each pint of the juice allow 1 pint of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a porcelain-Jine'd . kettle over a brisk fire. Put the sugar in earthen dishes, and stand 474 JELLIES. them in the even to heat. Boil gently 15 minutes, skim, then add the hot sugar and boil 10 minutes. Pour in glasses and seal when cold. Make a marmalade of the fruit pulp by adding one-half pound of sugar to 1 pound of the pulp, and boiling until it thickens. Green Gooseberry Jelly. — Put the berries, after removing their tops and tails, and wiping them well,^in a pan and cover with water; place a plate upoh them to keep them down, and cook till soft ; then strain them through muslin or a vfery fine hair sieve, leaving them to/ drain for several hours. To each pint of juice allow three-quarters of a pound of preserving sugar, and boil together, skimming occa- sionally, till the jelly appears firm if a little be put on a plate ; then pour into pots and tie down. They are better when part of them lias just begun to redden. Combination Jelly. — ^Take raspberries, strawberries, currants, and cherries. All should be fully ripe ; stdne the cherries.i Throw all together in a jar, and set in a kettle of cold water; let this boil until the fruit is scalded. Strain through a jelly-bag, pressing as little as possible, and proceed as. for currant jelly. Cool a little bit, stirring ; if it congeals readily, pour in glasses. Tie down with egg paper. The flavor of this jelly is much finer than that made of other fruit alone. Huckleberry Jelly.— Put the berries in an earthen jar, cover; and stand in a kettle of cold water. Let boil'until the juice is extracted from J:he fruit. Strain, measure, turn into a porcelain kettle, and boil 5 minutes. Add an equal measure of granulated' sugar. Boil 10 minutes, - Try a spoonful on a cold plate, and if it hardens, remove at once. If not, let it boil longer. Turn into glasses and seal.' One teaspoonful of strong vinegar to each pint of the juice improves! the , flavor. « Cherry Jelly. — Pit the cherries, put in a stone crock, and set in a kettle of boiling water to scald. Strain, and proceed as for currant jelly. Fancy Jellies. These jellies, of which therfe are many kinds, form delicious des- serts to follow heavy dinners and should be served with crisp wafers, fancy cakes, etc. In summer, especially, will their delicate flavors be appreciated. The foundation of all will be found in- gelatine or isin- glass. The gelatine should always be dissolved in cold water. If JELLIES. 475 gelatine is melted first in hot water — as it may be very quickly — it is likely to lack delic^y of flavor and to assume a muddy appearance that cannot bfc overcome. Some gelatines soften in 15 or 20 minutes in cold water, but there are many varieties which require 2 hours, and this time is given as being a safe rule for making all kinds-of jellies. If this length of time is allowed for the softening process, the gela- tine need not be clarified with white of egg or otherwise ; and the housekeeper with forethought of the needs of her table will keep this portion of the work in mind and put the gelatine in water early in the morning or even the night- before, provided she has a cool place in which to keep it. The lower part of the refrigerator is as good as any for the purpose. It is 'well also to remember that for each quart of jelly, where there is neither milk nor eggs used in its composition, one-half box of gelatine will be required. Jellies are nicer strained. A flannel shaped to a point is best for this purpose. Orange Jelly. — ^The juice of 4 oranges„the grated rind of 1, juice and rind of 1 lemon, 1 ^^ cupfuls of sugar. Put one-half box of gela- tine into cold water, let it stand 2 hours, add a pint of boiling water and the other ingredients, pour into moulds and set on ice to cool. Lemon JeUy. — One package of Cox's gelatine soaked in enough cold water to cover it ; juice of 3 lemons and 2 cupfuls of white sugar. Pour over this 1 quart of boiling water, stir until dissolved and strain into jelly moulds, wetting these before using. Dip a cloth in hot water and wrap around the mould and the jelly will turn out easily. (See Creams and Charlottes^ Fancy Jellies with WMpped Cream. — There are several ways of serving these. Use 1 large mould with a tube in the centre ; a new cake tin will answer. Turn it out when firm on a fancy plate. Whip to a froth one-half pint of cream, sweeten with 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill the hollow left by the tube with this, heaping in the centre, and pile the remainder around the base. If the mould is solid, heap all the cream around the base. Use ornamental sauCe dishes/and serve some of the cream with each helping of jelly. Or mould in wine-glasses, pointed in shape. Turn out on an ornamental plate, arrange prettily, and heap whipped cream around and between. Serve a pyramid to each person in a sauce dish, with a portion of cream. 476 JELLIES. Variously colored fruit jellies, the more colors the better, can be moulded in pointed wine glasses. Warm a little of each enough to run, fill the glasses and cool. Arrange on a pretty-plate, and heap whipped cream around and between the moulds. Pineapple Jelly.^Remember this cannot stand more than 2 hours unless it is kept icy cold, as the pineapple will digest the gela- tine. Pare and grate I'large pineapple, add a half pound sugar, then & half box of gelatine that has been soaked half an hour.. Put the whole over the fire and stir constantly until it is steaming hot. Now press through a colander. Decorate a cylinder mould with almonds, fasten them in place by dipping them in a little melted gelatine. Fill in the pineapple and pack in cracked ice with just a little salt. Stand 2 hours and serve with whipped cream. It cannot be allowed to stand over njght, as morning will find it dissolved to a liquid. ' Cherry Jelly (Gelatiue). — Stem 'and stone 2 pounds of ^weet dark-red cherries ; put them into a bowl ; pound the kernels and squeeze over them the juice of 4 lemons. Mash the cherries with a Wooden spoon, add a small tumbler of red currant jelly, the kernels and lemon juice. Boil together 1 pound of sugar, 2 cups of water, and half an ounce of gelatine, previously dissolved in a little hot water. Put the cherries into a jelly bag, pour the sugar and igelatine over them, and run through several times till quite clear. Add sugar or lemon juice if not sweet or acid enough. Wet the mould, place it in ice, pour in the jelly, and do not turn it out until the last mo- ment. Delicious. Peach Jelly (Gelatine). — Dissolve in sufficient water 1 ounce of gelatine ; strain it ; halve 1 dozen large peaches and pare them ; make a syrup of 1 pound of fruit sugar and half a pint of water. Into this put the peaches and kernels ; boil gently 15 minutes, theh place the fruit on a plate and cook the syrup 10 minutes longer ; add to it the , juice of 3 lemons and the gelatine. A pyramid mould is very pretty for this. Fill part full of jelly, and when set, put in one-quarter of the peaches. Place on ice and let it harden ; add more jelly, harden, etc., untirfuU. Let the base of the mould be jelly. It can be put in a mould and the peaches left out and served separately. Coffee Jelly. — This jelly is a proper accompaniment of cake and is as pretty as it is palatable. Soak half a box of gelatine 2 hours. Then make a quart of strong, clear coffee, and pour it at once over/ JELLIES. 477 the gelatine, sweetening to taste. Tastes differ so widely in the mat- ter of sugar in coffee that no rule can be given. Turn the jelly into a wet mould as soon as the sugar is dissolved, and just as it goes to the table pour around it sweetened whipped cream. A handsome dessert may be arranged thus : Pour the jelly half an ihch deep into square, bright tin pans, and when cold cut it into small blocks' with a knife that has been dipped in hot water. Heap the blocks on a glass dish or upon a folded napkin laid on a china plate, and serve with sweetened cream from a pitcher or boat. Bhubarb Jelly. — Boil rhubarb in water until well done. Pass through a sieve and sweeten to taste ; put on fire. Dissolve 1 heap- ing tablespoonful of cornstarch in half a cup of cold water, stir it into the boiling juice, and stir till the jelly looks clear. Pour in a mould, and set away to become firm. It can be served with or without whipped cream or sweetened cream. Blackberry Jelly (Gelatine). — ^A most delicious and sweet dish, and may be employed as a. substitute for pudding. Of course, it should be made the day before it is wanted. Strain the juice from ripe blackberries, boil it and skim well, and dissolve in it half a pound of sugar for a pint. Stir in an ounce of gelatine which has been well soaked in a cupful of water, and melted separately. Mix thoroughly, and pour in an earthenware mould when the jelly begins to set, and not before. This blackberry jelly will be excellent, if served with cream. If approved, a strip of thin lemon rind can be stewed with the fruit. Strawberry Jelly (Gelatine). — One quart strawberries, 1 large cup sugar, juice of 1 lemon, two-thirds package gelatine soaked in 1 cup cold water, 1 pint boiling water. Mash berries, and strain through coarse muslin. Mix sugar and lemon juice with soaked gelatine, pour over the boiling water, stir until clear; strain through flannel bag. Have a mould with cylinder in centre, dip in water, pour in jelly. Set on ice. When served, fill centre with whipped cream. Wine Jelly.-r-One package (2 ounces) gelatine, soaked 2 hours in large cup cold water; 2 cups white wine or sherry; 1 lemon, all the juice and half the grated peel ; 1 teaspoonful bitter almonds, 2 cups white sugar, 2 cups boiling water. Put soaked gelatine, l«mon. and sugar together, with the fl^avoring, and cover close half an hour. 478 JELLIES. Pour on boiling water, stir, and strain. Add wine, and strain again through flannel bag, without squeezing, and leave in mould until solid. Wet^ mould in cold water before pouring in the'3%ilg|! Served with whipped cream it is very nice. Pass sliced or fancy cakes with it. Calf's Foot Jelly.— Boil Very slowly 4 nicely cleaned calf's feet in 3 quarts of water, until reduced to 1,; strain, and set away until •cold; then take off the fat from the top, and remove the jelly into a stew-pah, avoiding the settlings, and adding one^half pound of white powdered sugar, the juice of 2 lemons, and the whites of 2 eggs, the latter to make it transparent. Let boil about 16 minutes without stirring. Pour into large flannel bag; repeat stirring until it runs- clear ; then have ready large china basin or smaller moulds. Set away to become firm. This is very nice for the sick, as is also wine ielly. , - Cider Jelly. — ^A good substitute for wine jelly will And favor with ^ose who object to the use of wine in cooking. One cupful of cold water, one-half box of gelatine, 1 cupful of boiling water, a small stick of cinnamon, 1 cupful of granulated sugar, the juice and grated rind of! large lemon, Ij^ cupfuls of sweet cider. Let the gelatine soak half an hour in the cold water. Pour the boiling water upon the cinnamon, and let it stand at the back part of the range tM slightly flavored. When the gelatine is soft, add the sugar and boiling water. Stir until dissolved^ then add cider and lemon, and strain. If it is desired to mould the jelly, allow the mixture to cool, then dip the mould into cold water, and pour the jelly in before it begins to stiffen. It may be turned into a wet, flat dish, to be cut when cold into squares. These little squares can be arranged neatly in a pile, and served with cream and sugar, whipped cream heaped about them, or with the following sauce : ,,/ Sauce. — Boil for 10 minutes a stick of cinnamon, 3 inches long, in a coffee-cupful of water ; add half a teacupful of sugar, boil 3 min- utes longer, stirring continuously, and remove to a cool place. Pour this around the cider jelly, just as it is sent to the table. Sometimes^ while the sauce is at the boiling point, it is whipped into the yolk of an egg that has been thoroughly beaten, and when cold and ready to serve, the stiffly beaten white of the egg is added. Serve with cake. If the cider is perfectly sweet, the lemon juice is an improvement j but if it is fermented, no more acid is required. Porcelain-lined kettles are the safest to use for capning or preserving fruit in any fash- ion. New, unworn granite iron is also safe to use. Tin should never be employed, as it is very apt to turn the fruit dark colored. Old-fashioned people, who still cling to brass kettles, understand that they must be very carefully cleaned. Scour with sand before using, scald with salt and vinegar, rinse, and wipe thoroughly. After using, wash at once. It is dangerous to allow the fruit to stand in a brass kettle to cool. Keep canned fruit, preserves and jellies in a dark' closet. If a dark closet is impossible, wrap each glass with brown paper. Canned fruit should be kept moderately cool and at the same temperature all the time. Drop a silver spoon (tablespoon) in a glass can, and hot fruit can be poured in without danger of breakage, because the metal readily absorbs a large portion of the heat of the fruit. Another safeguard is to wet a cloth in cold water, fold^ and stand one or more jars upon it. The filling of jars may be greatly expedited by the use of a gro' cer's funnel, and a small milk dipper is the best thing for ladling out the hot fruit or syrup. A glass funnel is a decided improvement upon the tin affair. Its tube shows whether it is clean or not, and it can never corrode, as tin and copper funnels do. Put in the first spoonful of fruit quickly. After this, fill quickly with the fruit at boiling point, put on the cover immediately and turn up the spring ; then turn the bottle upside .down, and let it stand in this position for some minutes. This treatment will heat the cover and thoroughly dispose of any microbes that may have been lurking about the dish. After cans have once been used, and before fruit is again put into them, they should be put into a kettle of water containing a handful of sal-soda, which must be brought to a boil. Let them cool in the water, and rinse thoroughly in clear water. This removes any germs of fermentation that may have lodged in the glass, "and the sod» 478 480 CANNED FRUITS. effectually sweetens them. If the can cover resists loosening when ready to use, wrap in a cloth wrung from hot water and folded"" around the top. If not, set the can with the top downward in an inch or so of boiling water. See that it does not touch the glass. Or run knife under rubber ring. Rings that have hardened may be dropped for one-half hour in a solution of one-third water and two- thirds ammonia, to soften. It is better, however, to use new rubbers, since they are "safe, and a fresh can of fruit is certainly worth a new ring. Examine cans carefully, since it is no uncommon occurrence to find small bits of glass in them which do not come out with sim^. pie washing. The danger of such bits of glass getting in food cart- not be over-estimated. la selecting cans choose as far as possible, those which are free from air bubbles in the glass. The more perfect they are, the less danger there is from broken glass. There are devices of various sorts for screwing on can covers and also for removing them, but these are entirely unnecessary. When fruit hot the _ =— ^^^^^.^ '^^^ cover Vf^^^^^^^ and rubber •^ should b e Can Opener. very hot also. The cover is very easily put on with the fingers, and can be sealed quite tight enough for safety, provided new rubbers are used After a few moments, or when the last can is finished, go over each 'one by course and see if they can be tightened. It is very rarely that one finds a cover that needs changing. If an earthenware jar or jug is used for canning, see that it is per- fectly glazed, otherwise it will not" be air-tight and the fruit will not keep. Sometimes there are ridges in the glass, which prevent cans being hermetically sealed with rubber rings; apply over the place a little putty or a cold paste of flour and water. Two-quart cans or jars should only be used in large families; one- quart and one-pint cans are better for small families, as canned fruit 'does not retain its freshness long after being opened. Opening canned fruit an hour or two before using, that it may regain the excluded oxygen, improves the flavor. A surplus of frUit, left from canning, may be sealed hot in small bottles to use for pudding sauces, etc. CANNED FRUITS. 481 The secret of canning fruit is to sterilize it completely, or to kilL the germs of decay thoroughly, otherwise there will be a failure. The fruit may be canned with qr without sugar, as the sugar is no neces- sary part of its preservation. Vegetables in which there is sugar require much longer to cook than others ; for example— corn, beets and young peas. Tomatoes need but 20 minutes, corn a full hour. Fill the jars to overflowing ; that the heat of the syrup may sterilize the cover. Table for Canning. FRuns. Apples, sour, quartered Blackberries Cherries Currants, ripe . . - '. Cranberries Crabapples Grapes, ripe . . Grapes, wild . . Plums .... Peaches, halved \ Mins. 10 6 5 .8 15 25 10 10 10 10 Cfi Ozs. 5 6 6 8 12 8 5 8 8 4 Frujx«. Peaches, whole . . • . Pears, small, sour, whole Pears, Bartlett, halved . Pineapples, sliced . . . Pie Plant, or Rhubarb .' Quinces, sliced .... Raspberries \ Strawberries Tomatoes, sliced . . . Whortleberries . . . . .9=3 u Mins. 15 30 20 15 10 15 6 8 20 5 Ozs. 6 10 6 6 10 10 4 8 Methods of SeaUng.— Fill the bottles or cans full of fruit pre. pared as for canning. Have ready 3 or 4 sheets of paper. Cut to fit the jars and large enough to turn over the rim. Dip each one in a saucer containing the white of an egg. Press on quickly and tie down; add 2 or 3 more pieces after a time ; wet in the same way on the under side ; tie these down. Let dry and you will have an air-tight cover- ing for the fruit, preferred by many to the self-sealing tops. Be par- ticular that .the jars finished in this manner are kept in a dry place, that the paper may not mould. If sealing-wax is to be used, the fol- lowing is a good formula : Sealing Wax.— One pound resin ; 1 ounce each of lard, tallow and beeswax. Melt these ingredients together. Put the cork in very tight and cover over with the mixture. If neces- sary, dip a cloth in the mixture and tie -firmly over the cork. COOK— 31 482 CANNED FRUITS. A New Way of Canning. — Scientific experiments have been made in keeping fruit in jars covered only with cotton batting, and at the end of two years the fruit was perfectly sound. The process is as follows : Use crocks, stone-bottom jars, Or any other convenient dishes. Prepare and cook the fruit precisely as for canning in glass jars ; fill dishes with the fruit while it is yet hot, and immediately cover with cotton batting, securely tied on. Putrefaction is caused by the invisible creatures in the air. Cooking the fruit expels all these, and as they cannot pass through cotton batting, the fruit thus protected will keep an indefinite period. Tyndall has proved that atmospheric germs cannot pass through a layer of cotton. In flavoring canned friiit do not use spices, but ke€p to lemon or orange, or other fruit flavors. Canning can be done in small quan- tities even better, and with much leTs weariness. When fruit and vegetables are ordered for the table there ia usually some left, and a can or two can be put up with very little inconvenience. In opening a tin can of fruit pour out the contents immediately. Leave exposed to the air in. an open dish for some little time before using, and if any remains over put away in an earthen dish. To test fruit or vegetables put up in tin cans (such as a're bought at the store) apply the thumbs to both ends of the can. If it resists pressure, the contents are well preserved. Reject every article that does not show the hne of resin round the edge of the solder of the cap, the same as is seen on the seam on the side of the can. Reject every can that does not have the name of the manufacturer or firm upon it, as well as the name of the company or town where manufactured. When the cans are full of the boiling fruit, run a spoon down to get out the air-bubbles. Let the froth run off the top of jar and seal. "^ Steam Canning. — The simplest canning apparatus is undoubtedly the best. In these days of many patents, when the market is filled with various elaborate devices for canning purposes, it is pleasant to know that the very best j;esults may be obtained with a simple wooden rack fitted into a flat-bottomed clothes boiler. A good boiler of this kind, of heavy tin, large enough to hold 1}4 dozen cans, may now be purchased at small cost. Any amateur carpenter may easily make the rack out of pine strips a half inch thick and 1}4 inches wide. Or, simpler still, each^jar can be set on a small block of wood. CANNED FRUITS. 483 The jars are filled with fruit and covered with the syrup Aade from the juice, in the case of soft fruit, like berries; and of water, in the proportion of 5 pints of water to 7 pounds of sugar, in the case of harder fruits, like peaches, pears and plums. The covers are screwed down without a rubber, and the jars set on this rack and separated by kitchen towels. They are immersed up to their necks in warm water, which is allowed to come to the boiling point. In the case ol delicate fruits, like strawberries, the water is allowed to boil but 3 '' minutes around the jars. In the case of pineapples, it boils 5 minutes; in case of peaches, pears and plupis, and most other fruits, 20 minutes. As soon as the time of boiling is over, the fruit is removed at once, jar by jar, the cover is taken off, the jar is filled to the brini with fresh, boiling syrup, to take the place of that which has . "been absorbed. Or, take one of the cans and use to fill the cans per- fectly full. The rubber is put on and the cover is screwed up as tight as possible. When the jars are cold the covers are tightened again, and each jar is wrapped in paper, to exclude its contents from the light, and is set away in a preserve closet. The closet should be in a place where the uniform temperature is as near to 50 degrees as possible. A dry cellar is usually the best place. Steam Canning.' — II. Fill the jars with raw fruit, and put in the boiler as above. Let cook until half done, then open and fill up the cans with a good syrup, made of sugar and water. Have this boiling hot. By having the syrup very rich, a delicious preserve can be made, with the added advantage of the fruit cooking fresh and whole. Try the cans after they are cold. More than once will do no harm. "^ Canned Strawberries.'— The first berries picked from the vines are the firmest and the finest flavored, and so are better for canning than those gathered later. Allow 2 baskets to a quart-jar. Put half a pound of granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons of water on to boil, and boil until it begins to crystallize. Then drop in the fruit carefully and just let it boil up about 2 minutes. Then carefully skim out the fruit into the jars, and fill to overflowing with the boiling syrup. Seal. Use an asbestos mat to stand the boiling syrup on to prevent scorching. Canned Strawberries. — II. First wash your berries, then take two-thirds berries and one-third sugar ; put a layer of berries, then a layer of sugar .into an earthen dish until you have used them all;' let 484 - CANNED FRUITS. them stand over night. In the morning turn off the juice, put it over the fire, let it come to, a boil and skim ; add the berries, let them boil, just enough to scald them, then can. Strawberries canned in this way are very nice and retain their color and size. To help strawber- ries to retain their natural color, keep the jars in total darkness. Cold Water Canmug. — Cranberries, blueberries, gooseberries, pie plant and currants cfan be prepared in this manner : Fill self-sealing cans full of fruit. Boil water to remove gases and impurities. Cool thoroughly. Fill the cans full and seal tight. Pie plant should be cut in inch-long pieces. Pineapple can be canned in its own juice. Cut it up in small, dice-shaped pieces. Add 1 }^ pounds of sugar to 1 pound of the fruit, Seal it up cold. Keep where there is no dan- ger of freezing. Put the fruit and sugar in layers in the can. Carnued Ptneapple (Whole). — Pare and remove the cores fron) the pineapples. Take out cores and place each pineapple in a large- mouthed jar. Cover with boiling water ; place the jars in a steam cooker or a patent canner, and steam continuously for three-quarters of an hour^ Seal ; when cool, examine tops to see that they are as tight as can be made. Put the covers on tight, without the rubber. The amount of cooking must be regulated by the judgment, as some kinds of fruit require more than others. If patent canners or steam cookers are not, convenient, take an ordinary wash-boiler and put a board in the bottom with auger holes in it for the water to boil through. Cold water can be used to fill the cans instead of hot. Fruit prepared in this fashion can be served sliced with sugar same as fresh fruit. ^, Mulberries, To Can. — Our native mulberry is a highly aromatic- flavored fruit, with a pleasant sub-acid juice. It is said to be very cooling and whQles6Ma,e, in its effects. The fruit when ripe is black, and should be gathered at once. It may be used in all recipes where blackberries are used, and also makes excellent jelly and preserves for winter use. Canned Elderberries. — To a gallon of black elderberries that have been stemmed and washed, add 1 quart of vinegar. If the vin- egar is very strong, use a little less. When they have boiled a min- ute or two, pour into glass jars and seal. When wanted for pies add sugar to taste and thicken with a little flour, using^l pint of berries. Elderberries prepared in this way make excellent pies. CANNED FRUITS. 48B Ganixed Blackbenrles. — ^To can blackberries allow a cup of sugar to 2 cups of water for every can of fruit. Let this syrup boil up over the fire for 10 minutes. Fill cans with the fruit. Cover them with the syrup, which need not be cooled for this purpbse, but may be used inoderately warm, as the blackberry is not a very delicate fruit like the strawberry and the raspberry. Put on the covers of the jars without the rubbers; or, m case the new patent jars are used, leave the vent open. Proceed according to directions for steam can- ning. Cranberries, To Can. — Proceed by the cold-water method, oi steam canning. Green Currants, Canned. — A relish for meats. Pick and stem green currants, and stew until tender in boiling water. Pour off the water, and for every pint of currants add 1 cupful of brown sugar. Rub the stewed currants through a sieve to remove the seeds and skins. Bottle when liot. Also proceed by the cold-water method, or steam canning. Canned Plums. — Proceed by the method of steam canning. Or, allow a half pound of sugar to each pound of the fruit. If the green- gage variety are used, prick the skins of each several times before cooking. Make a syrup, bring to the boiling point slowly, skim and add the plums. When cooked till tender they are ready for the cans. Canned Pears. — To every 3 poUnds of fruit allow 1% pounds of sugar and half a pint of water. Peel the pears ; halve, if wished, and lay them in cold water to keep them from turning dark before they are wanted. When the syrup is boiling, put the pears in and cook till they look clear or a fork can be stuck into them easily. Carefully fill the jars with the fruit Pour the hot syrup over them, filling the jars to the top. Cover and seal. Some cooks steam the pears before putting in the syrup. Pile the peeled fruit on a plate and steam in a steamer until a straw will pehetrate the fruit, then proceed as above, Quinces, Canned. — Peel, core, and wash. Allow half a pound of granulated sugar and half a pint of water, to 1 pound of quinces. Bpil together slowly, until the quinces are tender. Have the jars thoroughly heated ; fill nearly to the top with the quinces, and over- flow with the juice. Seal quickly. Peacbes, Canned. — Pare the fruit, cut in half, remove the pits, and with these raw halves pack the jars closely. Make a heavy 486 CANNED FRUITS. syrup of 2 pounds of sugar to a pint of water, and when it is well done pour it over the fruit, and seal at once. The peaches will pare more easily if dropped in boiling water. Have a large kettle of boil- ing water on the fire. Fill a wire basket with peaches, and lower it intp the boiling water for about 2 minutes.^ Turn the peaches out on a dish and pare them. To do this, however, t^6 peaches must be very firm. A few of the peach pits, blanched, and dropped in each can will improve the flavor for most people. It is not necessary to make such a rich syrup when the/ruit is canned,\ Pound for pound, or even half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, and half a pint of v/ater to every 3 pounds of fruit. Keep the peaches in cold water, after paring, until all are used. This prevents discoloring. Put the fruit in the syrup in small quantities. Cook about 5 minutes, remove, and pack in the jars, and fill up with the hot syrup, meanwhile put- ting more fruit in the syrup to cook. The same syrup can be used for several jars of fruit. This same process can be followed with many other fruits, such as pears, etc. Both peaches and pears look better if the syrup be strained. Have a fii^e strainer in the funnel through which the syrup is poured into the jar, Ganued Cherries. — Add to them one-third their weight in sugar; after it has dissolved boil slowly for 15 minutes, put in bottles or cans, and seal hot. By some, the taste given by leaving in the pits is thought an improvement. If this flavor is desired, the pits should be tied in a thin piece of muslin or netting and boiled with the cherries, but cherries should never be canned without removing the stones. Cherries in Molasses. — Stem ripe cherries and put in wide- mouthed bottles, filling nearly full. Then pour in New Orleans molasses to cover completely. Drive in a tightly-fitting cork, and cover with 2 or 3 thicknesses of egg paper. (See directions.) Shake occasionally, in order to mix the contents. The fruit will absorb enough of the molasses to render it sweet enough to make into pud-( dings or pies, without farther sweetening. Canned Apples.^Make a nice sauce from tart apples, cook quite smooth. Bell FloWe'rs are the best. This is a nice way to keep them when they begin to spoil. Apples and Baisins (to Can). — Make the sauce as above. To each can of this sauce add 1 or 1 ^^ cupfuls nice raisins. Put in when the fruit first begins to cook. This adds both to flavor and appearance. CANNED FRUITS. ^ 487 Rhubarb, or Pie Plant (to Can).— Can by the cold water pro- ces. (See directions.) Drop a silver spoon down in the can and see that all of the air bubbles escape. Pint jars are convenient, since that size makes one good pie. Canned Green Peas. — Shell and can by the rule for steam can^ ning. , Fill the cans as for fruit, omitting sugar. Boil the same way until they are sufficiently cooked ; fill each can up with hot water. Screw down tight and set away. Some housekeepers prefer to cook j Ihe vegetables 10 or 15 minutes, then fill the cans and finish cooking. Instead of filling up with water, take 1 or more of the cans and fill up the others. Do not put the rubber rings on the cans until after the second canning. In this way the cans are almost solid fruit, and economy of space is secured. In preparing for the table, dilute with hot water as much as desired, or milk, and season to taste. Let them boil about 20 minutes. Green Beans (to Can). — These are excellent canned as above. String and cut in pieces as for the table. Or simply boil the pre- pared beans rapidly 10 or 15 minutes, and can at once. Run a silver spoon around the inside of the jar to break the air bubbles. In the morning tighten the covers and put in a cool, dark place. Canned Pumpkin. — Steam the pumpkin, first slicing and remov- ing seeds; leave in the shell. When done, scrape from the shell. Mash, fill into cans, hot, being careful that no air-bubbles remain in filling the can. Seal up. It can be prepared for pies the same as fresh pumpkin, from which it cannot be told. Instead of steaming, it may be baked and s^ped from the shell. Tomatoes (to Can).^Tomatoes, if cut in half and canned in water only, can be used either in salads, fried or broiled, and no one would ever know but that they were fresh from the vines. . See rule for cold- water canning. , Canned Tomatoes. — Pare and slice and fill into bottles, and pro- ceed as for steam canning. Another way is to put the whole, un- peeled fruit in jars, first carefully wiping, and choosing round, medium- sized and perfect tomatoes. Then proceed as for steam canning, filling up the jars with hot water. They will be all ready for salads or frying. Yellow tomatoes are very nice canned in the cold-water fashion, and would .make a very pretty salad for a Yellow Tea or Luncheon. 488 CANNED FRUITS. Tomatoes Canned Whole. — Place a preserving kettle on stove half full of water. When it coines to a boil, put in whole tomatoes, previously skinned. Heat thoroughly all through. Lift carefully into hot glass jars and fill jars to overflowing with the hot water in which they are cooked. Screw covers on air-tight. Place in paper bags, each jar by itself. Keep in cool place. Be sure there are no air bubbles. Soald the tomatoes that they may peel more easily. Canned Com. — Pick the corn as soon as it is right for table use ;' do not allow any delay in the,- kettle on the stove with enough good vinegar to cover them; also place the bags of spices in the vinegar, together with the peppers cut in slices. Heat the vinegar as slowly ^s possible ; when it is scald- ing hot the pickles are ready to set away. The method is especially to be commended, when only a few cu- cumbers are to be pickled, The vinegar should be sharp and of good quality. Examine the pickles every week or 10 days for some time after they are put up, to be sure that all remain firm and sound. If any soft pickles are found, throw them away, and drain the vinegar from the remainder; add a little water and half a cupful of sugar to every 200 pickles ; scald the vinegar, and return it to the pickles while hot. encumber Pickles. — II. Select sound cucumbers from 2 to 3 inches in length ; wash well and pack in a large stone jar, sprinkling salt between the layers in proportion of a pint to 200 pickles. Fill to the brim with boiling .water. Let it stand till cold, or over night; drain and wipe dry; pack again in the jar, with a liberal sprinkling between the layers of bruised, not powdered, cloves, cinnamon, and allspice, and small pieces of horseradish root, which is indispensable. Then fill up until covered with boiling cider vinegar. After 2 days, drain off and scald the vinegar, skim if need be, and pour it back hot, and in 3 or 4 days repeat the process. In a week they will be good to use, and if the cellar is reasonably cool and dry, they will keep without any further attention, remaining solid and crisp until pickle time comes again, provided enough are made to last. A few green peppers in the virtegar give an added flavor, and are a great improve- ment. Alcobol i^ckles.-'— An Old-fashioned pickle. One pint of alcohol, .5 pints of rain water. In pickling be sure to leave the stems on the cucumbers. Wash carefully in clear water. Pour on the water and alcohol, weigh down the cucumbers, set in a warm 'place. Sweet Cucumber Pickles. — Put the pickles down in saltj as for " Cucumber Pickles, II." Small, even-sized cucumbers or gherkins , are nicest for use. Wipe the pickles well after they are taken out of the brine, and soak them for a few days in vinegar to extract the salt. Put them in a jar, with a layer of seasoning between each cucumber^ For a four-gallon jar of pickles this seasoning will take 7 pounds of sugar, 2 ounces of allspice, half ounce of cloves, 1 ounce of mace, the PICKLES. 498 same each of pepper and celery seed, half ounce of ginger, half ounce of cinnamon, and 1 pint of small white onions, chopped. Cover all with strong vinegar, tie up the top of the jar securely, and place on the stove in a large pot of cold water, and let it boil until you can run a straw through the pickles easily. The pickles are delicious when finished. Mixed Cucumber Pickles.^Wash and drain. Pack alternate layers of small-sized cucumbers in a jar with alternate layers of green tomatoes and common-sized green peppers. Cover with a boiling hot brine (proportions, 1 pint of coarse salt to 1 gallon of water). Let stand 24 hours. Drain, rinse in cold water, and pour over them boiling spiced vinegar. Add a few roots of sliced horseradish. The mustard pickle can also be used. Mustard Pickle. — To be used with any pickle. One ounce each of cloves, allspice, and black pepper ; 1 pound ground mustard, three- quarters pound sugar, 1 gallon vinegar. Tie the spice in a thin cloth, and boil in the vinegar, reserving 1 quart of it to mix with the mus- tard. Take out the spice bags, and stir in the mustard, first blending it smoothly with the cold vinegar. Pour this preparation hot over the pickles. Bottle, and cork tightly. Quick Cucumber Pickles. — Cut medium-sized cucumbers in strips. Salt well. Leave over night ; then rinse in cold water. Pour boiling vinegar over them to cover. Set away to cool. Brine for Cucumbers. — To 3 gallons of rain-water put 2 of yine* gar, one-half pound of alum, which has been dissolved in hot water, and 3 quarts of salt. Pour the above mixture in a large earthen jar, and as the small cucumbers are gathered and washed throw them in; they may remain until the end of the season, when all can be pickled at one time, and are sure to come out of the brine fresh and crisp. The same brine can be used for keeping green tomatoes through the winter. Spiced Cucumbers. — ^Two dozen large cucumbers sliced and boiled in vinegar enough to cover them 1 hour ; set them aside in the hot vinegar. To each gallon of cold vinegar, allow 1 pound sugar, 1 tablespoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon ginge;, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 1 tablespoon celery seed, 1 teaspoon mace, 1 teaspoon allspice, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 tablespoon scraped horseradish, 1 table- spoon sliced garlic, one-half teaspoon cayenne pepper. Put in the 498 FICKLES. cucumbers and stew 2 hours. The pickle is ready for use as soon as cold. Green Tomato Pickles. — To make green tomato pickles slice a peck of green tomatoes and a dozen large onions and pack them in a jar in alternate layers, with salt between. Let them stand 24 hours. Then take out and drain off the brine. Pack in jars and cover with spiced vinegar. Pour it on boiling hot. In slicing the tomatoes reject the small slice at stem and blossom ends. Some cooks use the mustard pickle given before. Five or six red-pepper pods are a nice addition. Spiced Vinegar. — One ounce of mace, 1 ounce of celery seed, 1 ounce of white ginger root, 1 table'spoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1 large cupful brown sugar, one-quarter pound of mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls whole black pepper, 3 pints of vinegar. Divide the spices in three portions, aiid put each in a small muslin bag. Boil the spices in the vinegar one-half hour. Then stir in the sugar until thoroughly melted. If the pickles are put in small jars, put one of the bags in each jar. If in a large one, place a third of the sliced tomatoes, or other, pickle, in the bottom of a jar, put in one of the spice- bags, and pour a third of the boiled vinegar over. Then another third of tomato, bag and vinegar, till all are arranged. Then fill the jar with cold vinegar till the pickle is covered, using more than the three pints, if necessary. Cover securely and set away for at least a month before using. One teacupful of grated horseradish is very nice added to this vinegar. Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Take plum tomatoes, mixed red and yel- "_ low. Do not prick th?m. Let them lie in strongbrine three or four days ; put them down in layers in jars, mixing with them small onions and pieces of horseradish ; pour on them gold, spiced vinegar; let there be a small spice-bag to put into every jar; coyer them carefully, and let them set a whole month before using ; or, pack in cans and seal hot. Omit the onions. If large tomatoes are used, slice iji inch-thick slices, before soaking in brine, 4 large onions to 1 peck of tomatoes. Chopped Ripe Tomato Pickles. — Peel and chop fine 6 quarts of ripe tomatoes, measured after they are chopped, add one-half pint of grated horseradish, 1 quart of celery finely chopped, 1 cup of chopped onion, 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped red peppers, 1 cup of white mustard seed, a cup and a half of broiyn sugar, a generous cup of salt PICKLES. 497 2 tablespoons of ground cinnamon, 1 tablespoon each of cloyes and mace, 2 quarts of vinegar ; mix together and put in a jar. Keep in a cool place. Gauliflo-wer Pickles. — ^Break 2 cauliflowers into small bunches. Put them into cold w,ater with 2 tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the water heat gradually. Boil the cauliflowers 10 minutes, then drain them on cloths or a hair sieve until perfectly dry, and then place them in glass jars. Pour over them boiling hot spiced vinegar. This is a good formula : One ounce of mustard seed, 2 ounces of celery seed, one- fourth of an ounce of mace, one-fourth of an ounce of nutmeg, one- fourth of an ounce of coriander seed, 2 quarts of vinegar. Boil the spice in the vinegar, tying it up in small bags. Some cooks do not boil the cauliflower, but pour the boiling vinegar over it. After a week's time, pour off, scald and pour back. Repeat this several times. Cauliflower is a little difficult to keep unless it is canned. If plain vinegar is used, boil some whole peppers in it. Small or slightly im- perfect heads of cauliflower can be \used fc^r pickling. Cabbage Pickle. — Slice firm, white heads of cabbage; pack in layers in a jar, sprinkling salt between each layer. Let stand over night. In the morning drain and pack jn a jar, sprinkling grated horseradish between each layer and celery seed. Cover with' scald- ing hot spiced vinegar. After six days pour off" the vinegar, scald and pour back. If necessary, weight the cabbage to keep under the vinegar. Cabbagre Mustard Pickle. — Proceed as above, and when in the jar, pour over it the mustard. Pickle before given. Mix well. This is ready for use when cold. Philadelphia Pepper Cabbage. — Two large, firm heads of white cabbage, 10 green peppers, 2 red peppers, 10 cents' worth of whole yellow mustard seed, 1 teaspoonful of black ground pepper and 1 tablespoonful of salt. Chop the cabbage and peppers separately, and very fine, and mix all the ingredients thoroughly together. Put in earthen crocks, filling to within two inches of the tops and cover with best vinegar. i ■ Pickled MJan^oes (Small, G-reen Muskmelons). — Select green cantaloupe melons, about the size of a pint bowl ; cut out one lobe nicely, and carefully scrape out the seeds; return the lobe, and tie a str'ng around the melon to keep it in place. Put fifteen of these COOK— 32 -. - ' 498 PICKLES. melons in brine strong enough to bear up an egg ; keep them well under the brine, atid let them remain for 6 days. Take them out and let them soak for 24 hours in fresh water. Remove from this water,- wipe dry, and fill with the following stuffing: Make a filling of chopped cabbage, chopped greeft tomatoes, little onions, radish pods, young string beans, little peppers, tiny green cucumbers, and chopped horseraidish. Any or all of these may be used. Spice with mustard-seed, a few corns, and a clove or two to each melon. Moisten the mixture with vinegar, and fill each melon compactly. Ileplace the cut section and tie up well with cotton cord. Pack the melons in a jar, and cover with , the following pickle : 2 quarts of cider vinegar, 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 1 tablespooriful cinnamon, 1 tablespoonful allspice, 1 teaspoonful cloves. Let this come to a boil and pour over the melons. Make twice the quantity, if necessary, or less, according to the amount of melons. To serve, remove the cord and Jay the cut section by the side, in the pickle-dish. Give each persop a portion of the melon and of the filling. These will be ready in a month. ' Peach Mangoes. — ^Take 4 quarts of large, ripe, free-stone peaches, firm to the touch. Cut open carefully, remove the stone, rub off the " fuzz," Lay in a strong brine. Let stand over night. Drain and rinse in cold water, wipe dry, being careful not to remove the skin, and fill the cavities with the following mixture : Mix in a bowl 2 tablespoonfuls of white mustard-seed; half-dozen small onions, chopped fine ; 2 tablespoonfuls grated horseradish root ; 1 teaSpoonful bruised celery seed. Fill the cavities in the peaches with this mixture, tie them up and put in a jar. Put in a preserving kettle sufficient cider vinegar to cover the peaches, to which add 24 whole cloves, the same quantity of allspice, and half an ounce of stick cinnamon. Stand this over the fire and bring it to the steaming point, but do not allow it to boil. Take it from the fire, and when cold, strain it over the peaches. Omit the onions if not liked. Add 1 tablespoon horseradish, and put in each peach a small piece of white ginger-root. Some cooks add 1 cupful of sugar tp the vinegar. They are ready for use in a week, are better in a month, and good as ever in five years. Onion Pickles. — Peel, put in strong brine for 24 hours, remove and boil in milk and water for 10 minutes, (the milk helps to whiten PICKLES. 499 them). In peeling, leave the rpot in to keep the o^iion in shape. Drain well and place them in a jar, pouring on scalding hot vinegar. If spiced pickles be desired, place half a pound of " prepared spices," suoh as may be procured at the grocer's, in thin bags, and steep them into the vinegar 15 miniites. • But if the whiteness that is so appetiz- ing in pickled onions is to be retained, the spices must be omitted. As the onipns are placed in tl^e jar, distribute sliced red pepper through them. These pickles present a very attractive appearance when put up in glass jars and sealed the same as-canned fruit. Chow-chow (Mustard). — A mustard chow-chow is made of 3 quarts of cucumbers, 2 quarts of green tomatoes, 2 quarts of cauli- flowers, 2 of small onions, 1 do?en small green peppers, and half a dozeii red peppers. Cut them up' and let all stand in a weak brine over night, and in the morning drain in a colander. Then scald them in vinegar and drain again, and put in a stone jar. Make a paste with 1 cup of flour, 1 pound of mustard, 1)4 pounds, of sugar, and a generous gallon of vinegar. Put in a kettle and boil, stirring often. Remove from the fire, and add 1 ounce of turmeric, 1 ounce of white mustard seed, and 1 ounce of black niustard seed. Pour over the vegetables at once and cover. It is very nice to can these pickles hot. In the absence of cauliflower, the heart and white portions of a firm cabbage may be used. Shred an amount equalling 2 quarts. Omit beans, if hard to obtain. One dozen ears of sweet corn, cut -from the cob, may be added. . \ • Mustard Pickle. — One quart each of small whole cucumbers, large cucumbers sliced, green tomatoes sliced_and small button onions, 1 large cauliflower divided into flowerets, and 4 green peppers cut fine. Make a brine of 4 quarts of water and 1 pint of salt ; pour it over the mixture of vegetables and let it soak for 24 hours. Heat just enough to scald it and turn into a colander to drain. Mix 1 cup of flour, 6 tablespoonfuls of ground mustard and 1 tablespoonful of turmeric with enough cold vinegar to make a smooth paste. Then add 1 cup of sugar and enough vinegar to make 2 quarts in all. Boil this mixture until it thickens and is smooth, stirring all the time ; add the vegetables and cook until well heated through. PiccaUm.— One-half bushel green tomatoes, chopped ; 2 heads of cabbage, chopped; 2 dozen large cucumbers, chopped; 2 dozen large green peppers, shredded; 2 dozen large onions, chopped. 500 , PICKLES. Sprinkle 1 pint of salt over and through this mixture, and let stand allnight. A sausage mill is best for chopping if one is handy. In the morning drain through a colander, or turn the whole mixture into a clean flour sack and press as dry as possible. (In xihopping- the tomatoes and cucumbers drain off as much juice as possible.) Put in a large pan, and mix with it one-fourth pound black mustard seed, one-fourth pound white mustard seed, 1 ounce of celery, or 4 heads of celery chopped fine; 2 cupfuls brown sugar, 2 cupfuls of grated horseradish, 1 gallon of best cider vinegar, 1 tablespoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. Put over the fire ,and let cook 1 )^ hours atler it begins to boil. Cook in porcelain kettle or stone jar. It is better to divide the quantity than to run the risk of scorching on the bottom. This pickle may be made without the cucumbers. Beet Chow-chow. — One gallon of chopped, cooked beets, 2 quarts of finely-chopped cabbage, 1 of grated horseradish, 1 of sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt, and black pepper to taste. Cover wjth vinegar, and set in a cool place. This will keep a long time. Pickled String' Beans. — Parboil the beans in -slightly salted water. Drain and pack in cans. Turn over them hot spiced vinegar and-seal. Pickled Sweet Corn. — Those who try this pickle once are sure to try it again. Chop 1 head of cabbage ; sprinkle ov$r it 2 table- spoonfuls of salt anfl let stand over night. Cut the kernels-from 12 ears of corn ; chop 2 peppers and mix with the cabbage. Bring a half gallon of vinegar to a boil ; add 1 cup of sugar and a quarter of a pound of mustard ; pour over the corn and cabbage. Smooth the mustard -in a little cold vinegar before putting into the hot, to prevent lumps. In buying mustard use care to get the, light-colored, first grade, as dark mustard spoils both taste and looks. Cherry Pickles. — Fill cans or bottles with cherries (ripe) on the stem. Turn over them cold spiced vinegar. Mace, nutmeg, and coriander seed may be used. Tie up in a thin cloth and boil in the vinegar. Paste egg paper over .the bottles. Do not use for six weeks. Mushroom Pickles. — Take a quart of button mushrooms, small and firm. Cut off the stems, and rub off the skins with a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Rinse in salt and water, drain, a,nd dry with a cloth. Put a quart of good vinegar in a preserving kettle. Spice it to suit the taste. Tie the spices up in a piece of muslin, and boil in PICKLES. 501 the vinegar. One ounce of bruised ginger, half ounce of white pep- per in the kernel, half ounce mustard seed, 1 nutmeg, sliced or broken. Drop the mushrooms in the boiling vinegar, and boil 7 minutes. Skim out, and pack in jars or bottles. Bottles with corks are well suited for mushrooms, one small bag of spices going into each bottle. In case the spiced vinegar runs short, fill the vessel with cold vinegar, so as to cover the pickle. Beet Pickles. — Cook the beets until tender, and cut in pieces of an even size. Boil vinegar enough to cover them, together with a blade of mace, a piece of ginger root, and a piece of horseradish, and pour over the beets boiling hot ; when cold, cork up. If to be kept long, seal hot, with egg paper. Cold sliced beets may be kept at least 2 months, by slicing a little horseradish in the vinegar. A little white sugar may also be added. Pickled Celery Boots. — Trim and cut the Solid white roots of celery into thick slices. Boil in salted water 10 minutes. Drain, and pack in a jar. Pour boiling vinegar, spiced with whole peppercorns, over them. Let stand 24 hours. Pour off, mix mustard with it, and a little cayenne. Heat to boiling, and- pour back. Cork, and paste over with egg paper. Root celery can be prepared in the same way. Pickled Peaches and Apricots. — Take fruit of a full growth, but perfectly green ; put in a strong brine. When they have been in a week, remove, wipe with a soft cloth, and lay in a pickle jar. Put to half a gallon of vinegar, quarter of an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of cinnamon, half ounce each of pepper, sliced ginger root and mus- tard seed. Boil the vinegar with the spices (tied in bits of thin cloth), and pour over the peaches boiling hot. Pour off the vinegar several times, re-heat and turn back. Vinegar. Apple Ytaegat. — Excellent vinegar can be made from the sound cores and parings of apples used in cooking. Put in a jar, cover with cold water, and add half a pint of molasses to every 2 gallons ; cover the jar with netting; add more parings and cores occasionally. Rinse dishes that have held honey or preserves, and pour the rinsings in the vinegar jar. If a little apple sauce has soured, pour water over it, and after a few days' drain, not strain, the water into the vinegar -Jar. Crabapple cores and trimmings are an addition. Some housewives 502 PICKLES. add the cold tea left froih' meals to make the necessaf y amount of fluid. Do not strain the vinegar except as it is needed for use. The sediment that is left after pouring it off from the parings will settle to the bottom. In making any kind of vinegar it hastens the process to put in a piece of " mother" from old ^dnegar. Some put in brown sugar, a piece of brown paper soaked in molasses, or a piece of bread soaked in yeast. Honey Vinegar. — One quart of honey (clear) to 8 quarts of water. After feripentation a fine, white vinegar will result. Many make honey vinegar from the trimmings and rinsings in preparing honey for the market. It makes good vinegar. Potato Vinegar. — One gallon of water in which potatoes have been boiled, three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, three-qufirters of a cup of hop yeast. In a month clear good vinegar will result. Put in an earthen jar to ferment. Celery Vinegar. — A teacupful of celery-seed in a quart of vinegar. Prepare as above. ' This is a delicious seasoning for many dishes. Savory Vinegar. — Equal parts of tarragon, chives, a green chili, a clove or 2, and the thinlyr-pared rind of a lemon added to the quart of plain vinegar as before. These flavored vinegars improve any salad. Onion Vinegar. — Six large onions, 1 tablespoon ipf salt, 1 table- spoon, of white sugar, 1 quart best vinegar. Chop the onions, strew on the salt, and let £hem stand 5 or 6 hours; dissolve the sugar in the vitiegar, scald the vinegar, pour it over the onions, put them in a jar, cover tight, and leave for a fortnight. Then strain and bottle. Sweet Rckles. -^ Sweet Pickled Peaches.— A quart of vinegar, 4 pounds of sugar, an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of whole cloves to 7 pounds of prepared fruit. Tie the spices in muslin bags; let the sugar and vinegar come to a boil ; skim ; put in the fruit ; a little at a time • cook till soft. Skim out the fruit into ' jars or cans, boil the syrup 15 minutes, pour over the fruit and seal. The above prc^of- tion is equally good for pears, plums, sweet apples and quinces. Put the spices into the vinegar with the sugar. Some cooks stick a few cloves into each peach. If this is not done, prick each peach a few times. This prevents the skin from loosening. The peaches should be ripe and firm ; wipe them with a coarse cloth. PICKLES. 503 Peach Mangoes. — ^Take sound, ripe, free-stone peaches ; wipe, si>It and remove the pits. Fill the cavities \irith finely chopped to- matoes, grated horseradish an4 mustard seed. Put the halves to- gether; tie each one. Pack in a jar, and cover with boiling syrup, made of 2 pounds of brown sugar to 1 quart of vinegar. Seal. Spiced Peaches. — Pare, stone and halve 9 pounds of peaches. Add 4 pounds of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of cloves (whole cloves), 3 or 4 sticks of cinnamon and mace. Let it boil one-half hour, or less rf they grow too soft. Pickled PeSiTS. — Use half as much sugar as you have fruit. Pare the fruit, leaving on the stems. Good brown sugar is richer than white. To 8 pounds of fruit, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 cup of mixed lyhole spice, allspice, cloves, stick cinnamon, a very little mace and some cassia buds. Do not use as much of the cloves as of the others. Tie the spices in one or more bags ; boil them in the vinegar and sugar. Skim well, and then add the fruit ; boil till scalded and tender. Skim out the fruit, and pack carefully in stone jars; boil the syrup 5 minntes longer, then pour over the fruit. The next d^y pour off the syrup, boil again and pour again on the fruit. Do this for three suc- cessive days. Keep the t>ags of spice in the syrup, and lay One on top of each jar of fruit. For those who do not care for very sweet spiced fruits, the proportions may be 4 pounds of sugar to 10 pounds of fruit. Delicious with all kinds of cold meats. Seckel pears are nice prepared in this way. Pickled Atiples. — Scald together 1 quart vinegar (half water if very strong), 3 pounds of sugar and 2 ounces stick cinnamon ; add 7 pounds of |)ared apples, with 4 cloves stuck in each apple, and sim- mer very gently until tender. Large crabapples may be used in this way, but russet apples are best ; they are excellent in the early spring. When the apples are all cooked, boil the syrup 5 minutes longer, and pour over the fruit. Leave in the spices. Sweet Pickled Citron. — Seven pounds of fruit, 2 pounds of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, 1 tablespoon of whole cloves, allspice and a stick of cinqamon ; boil the fruit in 2 quarts of water and a small piece of alum until soft, pour off the water, boil vinegar, sugar and spices to- gether 20 minutes, drop the fruit in and let it simmer 1 hour. Seal up hot. If put in large jars unsealed, pour off the vinegar sever*' times, scald and pour back on the fruit. 504 PICKLES. Pickled Siberian Crabapples. — Leave on the stems, but retiiuve the blossom end. Select large, perfect fruit. Take 6 pounds, of the fruit. Steam in a steamer until tender. Make ia syrup of 3 pounds of sugar, 1}4 pints of vinegar, 1 ounce of stick cinnamon, one-fourth ounce of whole cloves. Boil it 10 minutes, and skim. Put in the apples, and boil 6 or 10 minutes, but not enough to break, and can at , once. Some prefer to omit the spices, and simply use the syrup of sugar and vinegar. Pickled Watermelon (Sweet). — Use for these the rind of a good- sized watermelon. Pare and cut into thick slices and then in dice or fancy shapes. Boil 1 ounce of alum in a gallon of water and pour over the sliced melon, letting it stand on the back of the stove for ' half a day. Remove from the alum water and let it lie in cold water until cold ; drain. Have ready a quEtrt of vinegar, 3 pounds of sugar, an ounce of stick cinnamon and half an ounce of cloves. Boil sugar arid vinegar ; strain ; add the spices and rind, and boil until the rind is soft and clear. Seal up in jars hot, though they will keep without. They can be used in three weeks. If left unsealed, turn off the syrup several times in the first week, scald and pour back hot on the fruit. Sweet Pickled Muskmelon.— Select cantaloupes or muskmelons not quite ripe. Cut into oblong pieces, and remove the rind and soft part near the seeds. Prepare the spiced pickle in the following pro- portions: To every 8 pounds of melon, take 1 pint of vinegar and 3 pounds of sugar. Mix half a teaspoonful each of ground mace and cloves, 1 teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice and cinnamon. Tie this mixture into a small piece of cheesecloth, and boil it with the vine- gar. Cook the melon carefully in the hot syrup until tender, then skim out into a large- bowl. Boil the liquor down, and pour it over the fruit. Repeat this 3 or 4 times, and the last time heat all to- gether, then put into jars and seal. This pickle will keep without sealing. Or make precisely like Pickled Watermelon Rind. 1 Kipe Cucumber Pickles (Sweet). — Peel large, ripe cucumbers ; cut in quarters lengthwise, remove the seeds and juicy pulp, and let them stand over night in a weak brine. In the morning drain and scald slightly in clear water, then cook until clear in a syrup made as follows : To every 10 pounds ^f cucumbers use 4 pounds of sugar, a quart of vinegar, and a tablespoon" each of whole cinnamon, mace and cloves. Put the sugar in the preserving kettle with a teacupful PICKLES. / 60S of hot water ; let it boil up, skim, and add the vinegar and the spices, the latter in a little cheesecloth bag. Pack in a stone jar and cover with the syrup boiled down quite thick. Green Cucumber Pickles (Sweet). — Large, green cucumbers can be pared, seeded, cut in narrow strips, soaked in salt water and pickled same way as ripe cucumbers. Pickled Plums. — Take 7 pounds of plums, pour over them a pint of hot water, cover closely and steam till tender. Then add a pint of good vinegar, 4 pounds of brown sugar, and a tablespoonful each of cinnsimon, allspice and cloves, with two-thirds of a teaspoonful of cayenne. Cover and simmer for half an hour, when they are ready for the cans. Before serving on the pickle dish reinove the pits. If not sealed, heat the syrup three successive mornings and pour back on the plums. Pickled Blackberries. — Make a syrup of 3 pounds of sugar and a pint of vinegar, bringing it to a boil. Drop in the berries and cook till they are tender ; then seal in jars ; no spices being required. Pickled Berries. — Berries of any kind can be pickled in the same way. Spiced Blackberries. — Spiced blackberries are made very much like spiced currants. To 7 pounds of fruit allow half a pint of vine- gar and half a pint of blackberry juice, S}4 pounds of granulated sugar, an ounce of powdered cinnamon, half an ounce -of cloves and an ounce of powdered allspice. Let this preparation.cook steadily for about an hour or an hour and a half until it is thoroughly reduced. Spiced Berries. — Spiced berries of any kind — raspberries, cran- berries, currants, etc., can be made same as Spiced Blackberries. Spiced Grapes. — Grapes make an excellpnt spiced fruit. To prepare them, pick from the stems 7 pounds of the ripe grapes and separate the pulp from the skins. Put the skins into a preserving kettle over the fire, with enough water to prevent them from burn-' ing. In another kettle place the pulp, and cook until it will press easily through a sieve to remove the seeds. Add the strained pulp to the skins, with half a pint of sharp vinegar and 1 ounce each of whole cloves, allspice and cinnamon. Boil together until it is thick, and put into jelly glasses. Pickled Quinces (Sweet). — Pare and core the quinces and cut into eighths ; to 7 pounds of the fruit allow 4 pounds of sugar, a hall 506 PICKLES. ounce of ginger-root, 2 teaspoonfuls of ground allspice, the same of ground cinnamon, a pint and a half of vinegar, a teaspoonful of ground cloves, and one-half teaspoonful of ground mace. Mix the spices and divide into four parts ; put each part in a small square of muslin, tie tightly, allowing room for the spices to swell. Put the sugar and vinegar into a porcelain-lined kettle, add the spices and the ginger- root scraped and cut into slices. When this comes to a boil, add the quinces. Take at once from the fire and stand aside in a cool place until the next day. Then drain off the liquor from the quinces, bring it again to'the boil, pour it back over the quinces and let all remain till the following day. Repeat the operation several times, and the last day boil the quinces until tender. Then the liquor must be boiled down, until it forms a thick syrup; with this just-cover the fruit, put in jars and tie up for keeping. Pickled Cherries.^Pick over the cherries carefully, put in a jar and pour over them hot spiced vinegar, made in the proportion of 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of vinegar and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon. Boil, skim and pour over the fruit, which it should cover. Let stand a few days, pour off the vinegar and scald. Pour bjack boiling hot,, seal at once, or let cool and simply tie closely. Sweet Beet Pickle. — Boil and slice, or cut in dice. Pour over them a hot, sweet pickle, made in the following proportions: One pound of sugar, 1 quart of vinegar, one-half teaspoonful of cloves, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon. Tie spice in a cloth. Pour over beets hot. If to be kept, can at once. Pickled Cabbage (Sweet). — Pickle in the same manner as toma- toes. , Use either red or white, slice thinly, do not steam, simply pack in jars after draining free from salt, and pour the boiling spiced vine- gar over. Mixed Sweet Pickles. — Slice tomatoes (green) and cabbage. •Red cabbage will give the whole pickle a beautiful color. Pack in salt (pack separately) ; drain in the morning, strain the tomatoes, and pack cabbage and tomatoes in a jar, and pour over them the hot spiced vinegar, given in rule for tomatoes. Press down with a plate ; 1 ^quart of vinegar, etc., to 10 pounds of the mixed pickles. So MANY housekeepers are possessed with the idea that the preparation of ices and ice cream entails unhmited trouble and expense, that many families are needlessly deprived of these most refreshing hot wea- ther dainties. To begin with, it may be mentioned that a regular freezer is not an absolute necessity. Of course, it renders the prepa- ration of sherbet and ice cream much easier, but a tin bucket with tight fitting cover Vill answer all purposes, by placing it inside a wooden water bucket, and packing tightly around with ice and sdlt, in the proportion of one-fourth salt to three-fourths ice. In the absence of ice, a mixture of snow and salt will serve equally well. Most people make the mistake of trying to freeze their materials with ite broken into any and every size. It needs to be fine, almost as fine as the salt. If one has not a shaver for ice such as the ice- men use in making fine' ice, lay the ice in a stout piece of crash, and smash it up on something solid, using a heavy hammer. You can break the ice by pressing a hat-pin into it, as the trained nurse does in the sick room. The, finer your ice is broken, the sooner the cream will freeze. The ice in melting gives off heat, and many degrees colder is the melted ice and salt than the ice itself. Alternate the salt and ice in packing, and cover the top with a newspaper to keep the air off, and prevent melting the ice where it will do no good. Pour the cream into the pail, cover, then turn the pail by the hand round and round in the ice for a few moments. Take off the cover from the can, and with a, spoon detach any of the cream which may have frozen to the side. Again put on the cover, continue to turn the handle, repeating from time to time the operation thus described, press- ing the cream down with a stout spoon to make it thoroughly smooth. Colors for Creams and Ices. — In the making of sherbets and creams, both artistic taste and prudence are required in the matter ol 508 ICES AND ICE CREAM. colorings. Here are some excellent suggestions for preparing pure vegetable tints that can be compounded at home, and are, therefore, dermoid of all injurious substances. For amber, 4 ounces deodorized alcohol, 1 ounce turmeric. Shake till dissolved ; strain, and bottle. It gives a bright gold color. Blue can be made by rubbitig a piece of indigo on a plate with a little water until the required shade is obtained. Carmine has always a charming effect. Use 1 pint of water, half ounce of carmine, three- quarters ounce of aqua ammonia, F. F. F., 2 tablespoonfuls of rosewater. Put the carmine and ammonia, with a gill of water, into a bottle, shake till dissoJ ved, add the rest of the water, and let' it stand a day or two to settle. Pour off the clear, liquid, add the rosewater, and keep tightly corked. ~ For pistachio creams take spinach; the green color, or juice, can be prepared as follows : Wash the leaves, drain them on a sieve, and pound them in a mortar to a pulp. Wring it through a strong mus- lin cloth as hard as possible, pound the pulp agam with a very little water, wring it once more, and cook the juice in a farina boiler until it thickens like jelly. Drain it on a fine hair sieve, and cut the pulp through with a spoon upon a sheet of paper, and dry it to a thick paste. Add an equal bulk of pulverized sugar, work smooth, and bottle for use. There are, also, perfectly harmless color pastes, that can be purchased in large towns. Si^macli Greenv-=-Cook a peck of spinach in about a pint of water for 10 minutes, covering the pot it is in closely, then drain it and take it up. Lay it in a coarse cloth in a wooden bowl, and mash and pound it thoroughly ; then wring it in a cloth to extract every particle of juice that can be taken from it. A small quantity of this will give a perceptible green color to dishes in which it is used. Cochineal Coloringr- — The cochineal coloring is made by taking an ounce of cochineal, 1 ounce of cream tartar, 2 drams of alum, and half a pint of water, and boil all, except the alum, together until they are reduced ^o one-half. Then add the alum, and strain the mixture, and put it away in bottles for use. A few drops will color a consi- derable quantity, so the best way to use it is to take a drop at a time, till you have a deep-enough color. Packing Ice Cream. — Pack and freeze in the usual way, then as soon as frozen pack in newspapers all around, instead of putting in ICES AND ICE CREAM. 509 any more salt and ice ; the newspapers will keep the ice already left in after freezing. This is a great saving of ice and keeps the cream frozpn longer than any other way. Ice Cream Without Ice. — Nitrate of ammonia can be used for - freezing instead of ice and salt by mixing, if a small freezer be used, 7 pounds of nitrate with 3 quarts of water. The freezer is then ro- tated, and the cream or water is quickly frozen, provided the material is first cooled down before applying the nitrate. The nitrate can be recovered for further use by evaporating the solution to dryness. Moulding Ice Grieaui. — If you wish to mould ice cream or serve it in forms, have your mould ready at the time you remove the dasher from the can, and also have ready a tub or ,^:^^CT°'^fev bucket containing a mixture of coarse ice (^'^Sii lilllllMLSli.^ and salt. Moisten the mould with cold ^Jl^^^^^P^ll water, then fill it quickly with ice cream, A|{2^SS|i|Mf l pressing it down with a spoon to fill every fi||^ PpBii jJM| **^ part of the mould. Lay a piece of wax ^^sB^^HH' paper over the cream large enough to pro- tB^^^HS^Ki ject beyond the edges when the ' lid ^is on ; vH|l|IIHl|^^F put on the lid and imbed the mould in the "^m^HHB^^ tub of ice and salt ; cover with a piece of Ice Cream Freezer, carpet and stand aside for 1 or 2 hours. When ready to use, lift the mould from the ice, wipe it carefully, plunge it into a pan of warm water, remove the lid and paper, and turn the mould out carefully on a napkin placed on a pretty dish. If it should stick to the mould, wait for a moment, as the heat of the room will, as a rule, loosen it. Serve it in slices, unless it has been previously moulded in individual moulds. Moulds for Creams.— Individual moulds can be had in every possible shape, from cooing doves to full-blown roses, and beautiful, indeed, is the effect; but their price seems exorbitant to the house- wife. One quart of cream will fill 10 pieces. The bleeding heart is another favorite. The heart is colored with carmine, and an arrow runs through it. This beautiful affair can be used for an engagement luncheon. At a smart dinner, ices in the shape of roses are piled high in a gilt basket, and one served to each guest, For a supper the candle is a unique addition well worth men- tioning. The candlesticks were made of differejit colored creams. 510 ICES AND ICE CREAM. the candle itself being white. At the top was placed a small taper, which was lit as each guest was served. At a luncheon given to a debutante flowers were the artistic scheme. At each cover was a dif- ferent flower. The roses were frozen in yellow and red, pale pink and blush. The stem and leaves were of artificial make, and the effect can be imagined. Tulips and small sunflowers are treated in like manner. For lilies of the valley, the le^f above is frozen, and in the middle of it, just before the time for serving, are placed the deli- cate blossoms. Tutti-Frutti Flayoring. — The most delicious flavoring imagin- able for ices is made in this way. When the strawberries are ripe, take a qu^rt of brandy, a pound of sugar and a pound of berries and put them all into a 2-gallon jar. Then as the raspberries and cur- rants, cherries, blackberries, grapes, peaches, apricots and other fruits come in their season, ladd to the contents of the jar, allowing to every pound of fruit three-quarters of a pound of sugar. No more brandy will be necessary. The one precaution to be taken is that the fruit must be stirred every day with a long-handled spoon in order to keep it from spoiling. This is only necessary during the hot weather, but it is a thing that must not be neglected. Alcohol may be used instead of brandy ; 1 pint. Ice Oream. "Easy" Cream. — One quart of new milk, 1 quart of sweet cream, 1 pint of powdered or granulated sugar, 2 eggs, whites of, beaten stiff) 1 large spoonful of va- nilla. Place on ice until thoroughly cold, and freeze. Excellent, and very easily prepared. Easy Cream Without Eggs. — ' Place the can in the freezer, pack with two parts pounded ice and one of salt. Pour 1 quart of cream and l^inl of milk into the can. Into 1 level cup of sugar stir 2 teaspoonfuls of va- loe Shredder. nilla; add this to the cream, close the tan, turn the crank slowly, increasing the speed as the cream hardens. When ft turns with difficulty, remove beater, stir up con- tents with a spoon, cover, and set in a cool place for 2 hours. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 611 Ice Cream With £ggs. — Four eggs, 2 quarts of sweet milk, 1 quart of cream, 1 pint of sugar, flavoring. Beat the yolks into a foam, adding sugar, a little at a time, until dissolved ; add sweet milk and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Heat until at the boil- ing point, renlove from the stove, and set away until perfectly cold. Add the cream, whipped stiff, to the mixture, flavor, and freeze. Ice Cream Without Sgr^s. — Two quarts of sweet milk, 1^ pounds of powdered or. granulated sugar, 1 quart of cream, half tea- cupful of cornstarch or 1 scant teacupful of flour, lemon or vanilla flavoring. Take 3 pints of milk, put on to boil in a tin pail inside a kettle of boiling water, mix the cornstarch or flour in the remaining pint of milk until smooth, dissolve in it the sugar, and stir carefully into the boiling milk ; when thick, remove from the fire and strain. When cold, flavor to taste, add the cream, and freeze. Vaiulla Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepan, over the fire, 1 quart of milk, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, 3 tablespoonfuls of extract of vanilla and 8 yolks of eggs ; stir with an egg beater, and when be- ^ginning to thicken without boiling, strain the mixture and allow it to become cold. Place it in a freezer, arid keep it in a frozen state until time for serving. Snow Cream. — If made with dry and soft snow it is equal to ice cream, and is made in a few minutes. One egg, half cup of sweet milk or sweet cream, one teaspoon of vanilla. Stir in enough snow to make it stiff. Dry snow is the thing to use. It can be made without the egg. Frozen Custard. — Put a quart of milk on the fire to heat. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs, with a teacupful of sugar, and stir into the milk. Let come to a boil, take from the fire, add a pint of very rich milk and the beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor with vanilla, then turn into a freezer and freeze. Lemon Ice Cream. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, thicken with white sugar, add very carefully 3 pints of sweet cream, freeze hard. Pried Ice Cream. — A small, solid cake of the cream is enveloped in a thin sheet of pie crust, and then dipped in boiling lard or butter long enough to cook the outside to a crisp. Served immedi- ately, the ice cream is found to be as solidly frozen as when it was first prepared. The process of frying is so quickly accomplished, and 512 ICES AND ICE CREAM. the pastry is so good a protector, that the hea£ has no chance to reach the frozen cream. It is pronounced delicious. Coffee Ice Cream. — Put in a saucepanjon the fire 1^ pints milk, the yolks of 5 eggs, 14 ounces of sugar, and half a pint of very strong black coffee. Stir well with an egg beater, and when beginning to thicken, without boiling, strain your mixture and allow it to become cold, and freeze as vanilla ice cream. ^ Chocolate Ice Cream. — One quart of sweet cream, half a pound ^ of granulated sugar, 2 ounces of chocolate melted over boiling water and stirred in slowly, 1 ^ teaspoons of vanilla: Freeze. Chocolate Moss. — One quart of sweet cream, sweetened, flavored, and whipped to a stiff froth ; drain it ; have 2 squares of chocolate melting in a basin ; set in hot water ; stir carefully into the whipped cream, and put all into a pail or freezer, and freeze without stirring. When wanted for the table, wet a cloth in hot water, wrap around the pail until the cream slides out. Slice and serve. It looks like moss, and is delicious. Make in the morning and serve for tea. Pistachio Ice Cream. — Tp a pijit each of milk and cream, allow half pound of pistachio nuts, quarter pound of sweet almonds, a cup of sugar, and juice of 1 lemon. Blanch the nuts and pound to a paste ; bring the milk and cream to boiling ; remove from fire, stir in the nuts, lemon juice, and sugar, and endugh spinach coloring to tint the whole a light, dainty green. When cold, freeze. Chestnut Ice Cream. — To make this delicious ice cream use 2 quarts of cream, a cupful and a half of sugar, the juice and rind of an orange^ a cupful of water, a gill of wine- (the wine can be omitted and the juice of another orange used instead), and 30 French chestnuts. Shell and blanch the chestnuts, cover them with boiling water and cook for half an hour. Drain off the water, pound the chestnuts in a mortar, and then rub them through a puree sieve. Put the sugar, grated orange rind and water in a stewpan and place on the fife. Boil for 20 minutes, add the chestnut puree, and cook for 6 minutes longer. Take from the fire and add the orange juice and wine. When cold, a,dd the cream and freeze. White Cherry Ice Cream. — Put 2 ^ups of sugar and 1 cup of water in a saucepan over the fire. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, and let the syrup come to a boil. Drop in carefully 1 quart of Cali- fornia white wax cherries, and simmer gently 15 minutes, strain ICES AND ICE CREAM. 613 carefully, add a quart of cream to the syrup, and freeze. When it begins to turn hard, beat well, take out the dasher and stir in the fruit. Pack and let stand for two or three hours to ripen. Pineapple Ice Cream. — Three pints of cream, 1 pint milk, 2 ripe pineapples, 2 pounds sugar ; slice pineapples thin, scatter sugar over them, and let stand 3 hours. Cut or chop the fruit into the syrup and strain. Beat gradually into the cream, and freeze. Re- move a few bits of pineapple, and stir in cream when half frozen,' Peach ice cream made in the same way is delicious., Carabael Ice Cream. — ^AUow, to a quart of cream and a pint of milk, three-quarters pound of sugar and white of 1 egg. Place one- fourth pound of the sugar in a pan over the fire, and stir until it be- comes liquid and turns dark brown. Heat the milk to boiling (and one-half the cream), pour in the burnt sugar and stir a few minutes. When cold add the rest of the sugar and a teaspoon of vanilla. Mix well and freeze. When half frozen, add the remaining pint of cream, well whipped, and the white of the egg, well beaten, and finish freez- ing. In all cases where a freezer is used, the beater should be turned rather slowly at first, until the cream begins to congeal, and then quite rapidly, until the cream is so stiff that the beater can no longer be turned, when all salt should be carefully wiped off from the lid, the lid and beater removed, and the cream well beaten and pressed down with a wooden spatula or spoon ; the cover may be replaced, a cork fitted tightly in hole in cover. The water should Tpe drawn off, and more ice and salt added, then cover with a piece of carpet or blanket, and set away in cool place until needed, Cocoanut Ice Cream. — For this, take a quart of cream, a pint of milk, \}4 cups of sugar, 3 eggs, a cup of desiccated cocoanut, and the juice and rind of 1 lemon; beat together the eggs and grated lemon rind, add this to the milk in a double boiler, and stir until it begins to thicken ; then add the cocoanut, and set away to cool ; when cold, add the sugar and lemon j'uice mixed together; then stir in the cream and freeze. Currant and Raspberry Ice Cream. — To a pint of cream and a pint of milk allow a quart of red raspberries, half a pint of currants and 2 cupfiils of sugar ; bring the milk and cream to boiling point, remove from the fire, stir va 1 cupful of sugar until dissolved, and set the liquid away to cool; wash the raspberries and currants, and either COOK— 33 514 ICES AND ICE CREAM. rub th^m through a fine sieve or else strain them through coarse muslin, being sure that no seeds are left in the juice; then add the remaining cupful of sugar; when the cream has become cold, add to it the juice, and freeze. Currant Ice Cream. — Mash 2 pounds of red ripe currants ; add a pound of sugar to them, and let stand, for 2 hours ; strain and add the juice to a quart of thick, sweet cream; if not sufficiently >sweet, add more sugar ; pour in a freezer) let stand 10 minutes and freeze. Almond Ice Cream. — To a quart of cream and a pint of milk, allow a pint of water, a pint of blanched almonds, the yolks of 5 eggs, and 1}4 cups of sugar; place the almonds in a frying-pan, and stir them over the fire until they become of a rich brown hue, then pound them to a paste in a mortar ; cook the milk and pounded almonds togethef for 20 minutes, being careful not to allow , „ _. , it to scorch; boil the water an^ Ice Oream Dieher. . \, r or • ^ i sugar together for 25 mmutes ; beaJ the yolks of the eggs and stir them into the boiling syrup; beat this mixture for 4 minutes, then remove from fire and stir it gradually into the almonds and milk ; strain the mixture through a sieve, pressing through as much of the almonds as possible; set away to cool; while cooling, stir occasionally ; when cold, add the cream and half tea- spoon of almond extract ; freeze, Blueberry Ice Cream. — Blueberry ice cream is rather odd, and yet altogether delicious. To make it use 1 quart of large ripe blue- berries, 1 quart of cream, 1 cupful of sugar, and 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Freeze the cream for 15 minutes. Remove the beater and stir in the blueberries. Pack in A mould or in a freezer ^nd let stand for an hour or more. Raspberry lee Cream. — To a pint of milk and a pint of cream allow a scanty pound of sugar, a quart of raspberries and white- of 1 egg ; heat the milk and cream to boiling point, take off the fire, add the sugar (one-half) and set away until, cold ; mash the raspberries! with the rest of the sugar, and as soon as the milk has cooled, add the raspberries and freeze ; when the cream is half frozen, add the well- beaten white of the egg and finish freezing. ICES, AND ICE CREAM. 515 Peach Ice Cream. — Place in a double boiler 1 pint of milk and a generous pint of sugar. Put over the fire and let it boil 20 minutes. Peel and slice enough sound, ripe peaches to make a quart ; rub them through a sieve and add to the boiling milk with the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring all the time. Take from the fire and stir a few moments. When cold, add a half teaspoonful of almond extract and 1 quart of cream, and freeze. Orange Ice Cream. — Grate"the yellow peel (none of the white) from 3 large oranges. Add the juice of the oranges^ixed with a cup of sugar and the yolks of 6 eggs. Stir 1 pint of boiling milk gradually into the eggs. It must not curdle. Add' a pint of perfectly fresh cream, and if the mixture is not a good yellow, a drop or two of - the yellow French coloring liquid used by confectioners and catereirs. These vegetable colorings are perfectly safe and often add considera- bly to the appearance of the dish. Freeze the ice cream as usual and dish it out in little round forms, about the size of small oranges. There is a scoop for the purpos^e of dishing ice cream which serves it in a perfectly round, symmetrical form. It costs but 25 cents, and can be found at-any shop supplying bakers' and confectioners' utensils. These are nice to serve any cream with. Strawberry Ice Cream.^-One quart of cream,! quart of straw- berries, 1 pound of sugar, juice of 1 lemon. Put half the sugar and half the cream on to boil in a farina boiler. When the sugar is dis- solved, stand aside to cool. Add the remaining half of the sugar and the lemon juice to the Berries, mash and stand aside 1 hour, then strain through a fine muslin. Add the remaining half of the cream to the sweetened cream and freeze. When frozen stir in the fruit juice^beat thoroughly, repack and stand away to harden. Tutti-Frutti Ice Cream.^To every quart of rich vanilla cream> partly frozen, add 1 pint of mixed almonds, citron and mixed 'French candied fruit chopped fine. Finish freezing, add one-quarter of a cup of orange juice and put away to ripen. Frozen Strawberries. — Stem and wash 1 quart of the ripe ber- ries. Mash them with a wooden spoon, add 1 pound of granulated sugar and the juice of 2 lemons ; mix and let it stand an hour ; then add 1 quart of water and let it freeze. See that the sugar is thor- oughly dissolved before turning the mixture into the freezing can. This may be served as soon as frozen. Delicious. 616 ICES AND ICE CREAM. Frozen Baspberri«i.-^I*repare in precisely the same manner as Frozen Strawberries. Frozen Oranges. — Boil together for 10 minutes 1 cupful of water, half a cupful of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of 2 oranges. Add to this preparation the juice of four oranges ; cool and freeze. Boil 3 tablespponfuls of sugar with 3 of water for 2 minutes. Beat this into the white of 1 egg that has been beaten to a stiff, dry froth. Stir this meringue into the frozen mixture, and it is ready to serve. Frozen Cherries. — Two quarts of pie or morello cherries, or 1-quart can, ^pounds of sugar, 1 quart of water. Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar and stand aside 1 hour ; then stir until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Add the water, put into the freezer, and turn rapidly Until frozen. This will serve 10 persons. Frozen Banana. — Peel half a dozen fine, ripe bananas, and slice with a silver knife. Mash fine. Boil half a pint of water and half a pound of sugar for 5 minutes ; when cool, strain and add, with the juice of an orange, to the bananas. Put in the freezer, and when frozen stir in a half pin]t of whipped cream. Let stand for an hour. This will serve six persons. Banana Glace. — Frozen bananas are very nice, served as a sweet course at a luncheon in the place of ices or ice cream. Get the best bananas you can find, with the skins as perfect as possible. Peel one section — that is, turn it back carefully without separating from the rest of the skin — and take out the fruit. Mash the pulp, and to each cupful of it add a, pint of whipped cream and sugar to taste. Fill the banana skins with the mixture, shaping it as much like the fruit a§ possible. Cover so that skins will not appear to be broken, and pack in an ice cream can. Make a freezing mixture of salt and ice, as for ice cream, and let them stand from 2 to 3 hours. If you choose, the pulp may be colore^ with strawberry juice, but must not be thinned too much, or there will be trouble in packing the fruit Frozen Watermelon. — Split a ripe melon into halves, scoop out centre, rejecting seeds. Put this in a bowl and, with a silver knife or spoon, chop the melon into small pieces ; add juice of 1 lemon and half pound of powdered sugar. Throw this in a freezer, pack as usual, and turn very slowly for 10 or 15 minutes, until the mixture is like sofl snow. Serve in glasses. If you use wine, at serving time put 1 teaspoonful of sherry in each glass. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 517 Frozen Peaches. — Prepare same as Frozen Cherries, cutting the fruit in slices and adding 1 pound of sugar to- the quart of sliced fruit. When {irozen, the stiffly-beaten white of an egg may be stirred in, and it may either be packed away an hour or served at once. Peaches and. Cream. — If one has an ice-cream freezer, peaches and cream are almost equal to ice cream. Prepare as for the table fresh, juicy peaches; season them- liberally with cream and sugar, place some of the quarters on the bottom ^f the mould, then fill. Freeze the mass solid without stirring. It will usually take 1 J^ to 1^ hours. Turn out and serve immediately. Frozen Apples.— Take finely-flavored apples, grate them, make them very sweet and freeze them. This is a delicious dish. Pears and quinces, grated (or stewed and run through a sieve), then made very sweet and frozen, are also very nice. The flavor is much better preserved when the fruit is grated. Peach Granite. — Half-dozen peaches, skinned and chopped. Make a syrup of a cupful of sugar and a little less water. Season with lemon, pack in salt and ice. When nearly frozen, add the whites of two eggs firmly whipped, mix and mould. Orange Grrauito. — Mix 1 pint of orange juice with 3 pints of sugar syrup, made as follows : Dissolve 2 pounds of sugar in 2 pints of cold water ; next add the juice of 2 lemons and the thin peel of one ; strain through a fine sieved, pour into a well-packed freezer and freeze for 5 minutes ; then take- off the cover, cut the frozen parts loose from the sides of the freezer, turn for a few rriinutes longer and serve. Frozen Fruits. — One or more fruits may be used in this dish. Theyshould'be divided into convenient portions and dressed with sugar to taste. This combination is placed in the can of a freezer and salted ice packed round it. After an hour, cut the congealed portions away from the side of the can, renew the ice and salt, and let it stand until frozen, which will require about three hours. Frozen Pudding. — Fill the mould with, first, slices of sponge- cake, then sliced bananas, then some s'mooth jelly (orange or lemon is nice), then macaroons, and so on till the mould is full. Make a steamed custard, in Avhich dissolve a teaspoon of gelatine. When cool, not cold, pour over the pudding and pack as before directed and serve with sauce. Or flavor 1 quart of ice cream with 1 teaspoon each of 618 ICES AND ICE CREAM. extract of vanilla, orange and rose water. When j>ttrtly frozen, add a mixture of cherries, plums, apricots, pears, strawberries, peaches, or use figs, dates, raisins, currants and citron. A tablespoon each of Madeira wine and Jamaica rum can be used in the place of the extracts. Tuscan Puddingr. — Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of milk, sweetened with half a cup of sugar, boiled and poured oh 3 beaten eggs. Return the mixture to the saucepan and stir until it thickens, but do not let it curdle, as it will if it boils for more than a second. When cool add 1 pint of cream, half a cup of sugar, a quarter of a box of gela- tine, dissolved and strained, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, a quarter of a teaspoonful of essence of lemon, 20 drops of extract of bitter almond. Put in a mould with smooth sides and pack in ice and salt. The pro- portion is 2 quarts of broken ice to 1 of coarse salt, well mixed. In an hour remove the mould, and after wiping it carefully uncover it, and 1^^ with a knife scrape the frozen cream from the sides. Beat it thoroughly, as this makes the texture fine and smooth. If it is nearly frozen, add half a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a ,'=?;5- — -' — '=■ pound of candied ginger, cut in small pieces, and half a pound of citron prepared in the same way. If the cream is not very stiff return the mould to the ice, repeat the- prodess in three-quarters of an hour, and add the nuts, ginger and citron after the second beating. Strawberry Ice Cream Puddingy. — ^Whip 1 quart rich, sweet cream until thick, add 2 cups powdered sugar, and, lastly, stir 1 quart ripe strawberries through the cream ; fill this into a pudding form with a tube in the centre ; cover lightly, and put a strip of buttered paper around the edge of the cover, so that the water cannot enter, and pack in ice and salt ; cover with a heavy woolen cloth or blanket, and let stand 4 hours. When ready to serve, lift from ice; remove ICES AND ICE CREAM. 619 the paper, wipe off the formi dip it in hot water, turn the pudding onto a dish, and serve at once. Nesselrode Padding. — Three cups of chestnuts, shell and blanch, simmer until soft, drain and rub through a colander. Cut 1 pound of French fruit candied in small pieces and cover with half cupful sherry- wine. (Half cupful rose-water can be substituted for the wine.) Boil. 2 cupfuls of sugar and 1 cupTul of water 15 minutes. Beat into it the well-whipped yolks of eggs. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens slightly; then remove from fire and beat until cold. Add the nuts and 1 pint of cream. Flavor with 1 teasponful vanilla. Put in freezer and work until partly frozen. Stir in the candied fruit and finish the freezing. Then pack the mould for 2 hours to set. Iced Bice Puddingy. — This delicious pudding is made from haff a cupful of rice, 3 eggs, 2 cupfuls of milk, half cupful of sugar, and a pint of whipped^ cream. Boil the rice until tender, putting it on to cook in a pint of cold water, add a pinch of salt, and when cooked nearly dry, put the rice in your double boiler with 2 cupfuls of milk. Cook until all the milk is absorbed, and then put through a sieve. Return the ride to the boiler, add the 3 eggs beaten until light, and the sugar. When cold flavor, mix thoroughly with the whipped cream, beating it into the rice, and freeze. Ices. Ices are generally looked upon as a somewhat expensive luxury, but if made according to the following directions, they can be suc- cessfully produced at a very small cost, and with very little trouble. All that is required is a zinc pail and a freezing pot ; a small biscuit tin or a round cocoa tin, capable of holding a pint of liquid, will answer the purpose very well. For water ices allow equal quantities of the juice of fresh fruit and water, which has been sweetened and colored to taste, adding a little lemon juice and the beaten white of an egg, to every pint of liquid. Care should be taken not to make any mixture to be frozen excessively sweet, or it will be difficult to obtain a satisfactory result; on the other hand, it should be sufficiently sweet, or the ice will be hard and rough in appearance. The icessshould be served in fancy paper cases, placed on a small glass plate. , A much longer time is required for freezing water ices than 520 ICES AND ICE CREAM. creams. The juice of all fruits may be used to flavor them, and when they may not be obtained fresh, syrups may be substituted. Water ices may be moulded, if desired, as other ices. An ice is made of fruit juice, ice, and water. A sherbet must be beaten white. To make a water ice^ very nice, some cooks clarify the sugar. Take sugar and water, in the proportion of a pound of sugar to a pint of water. To make 2 quarts of water ice, take, for example, 2 pounds of sugar to a quart of water, adding to them about the fourth part of the white of an egg, well beaten up, and boil for 10 minutes. Leave the mixture to cool, and when it is cold put in the flavoring. liemon Ice. — Squeeze the juice from 6 lemons, and grate the peel of 3 of them; also take the juice and rind of a large sweet orange. Let the orange and lemon peel steep in the juice 1 hour; then strain through a bag, squeezing the bag dry. Boil 1 pint of sugar and 1 pint of water together to form a syrup ; strain ; when cool, ^tir in the other ingredients and freeze. A lemon ice can be made by simply making a very rich, sweet lemonade, and freezing it, but it is not quite so rich. Orange Ice. — Make as above, using fruit in the proportion of 6 oranges to 1 lemon. Currant Ice. — Put a pint of sugar into a quart of boiling water, and boil for half an hour. Then add a pint of currant juice and the juice of'2 lemons. When cold, freeze. The lemon can be omitted. Pineapple -Ice. — One can chopped pineapple, or 2 fresh pine- apples, grated ; add to it the juice of 2 lemons, 1^ pounds of sugar, and 1 quart of water. Freeze in an ice-cream freezer. Delicious. Orape Water Ice. — Take a pint of grape juice, an equal measure of sugar, and a quart of watfer. Make a syrup of the sugar and water ; when it is cold, add the grape juice, and freeze as for other fruit ices. Cherry Ice. — ^Two cups cherry juice, a quart of water, 2 large cups of sugar. Mix and freeze. The ice is nicer if the sugar and water are first made into a syrup, and cooled before adding the. fruit juice. To flavor, crack a number of the cherry pits and rub to a Ipaste in a mortar, or some other way, and put with the cherries be- fore straining them. Some cooks add the juice of 1 lemon. Strawberry Ice. — Ripe strawberries, mashed and pounded in a bowl of sugar in the proportion of a pint of berries to one of sugar, allowed to stand, strained, mixed with a pint of ice water and the juice ICES AND IC^ CREAM. ,521 of 1 lemon, and frozen without stirring, make a delicious water ice. A teaspoonful of orange-flower water adds to the flavor. Blackberry Ice. — Make after the same rule as Strawberry Ice. Tapioca Ice. — One cup of tapioca soaked over night. In the morning put it on the stove, and, when boiling hot, add 1 cup of sugar, and boil till clear. Chop 1 pineapple, stir together with tapi- oca and put into moulds. Serve ice cold, with sugar and cream. Sherbets. liemon Sherbet. — Six lemons, 4 eggs, whites of, 2 pints of sugar^ 1 pint pf water. Make a thick syrup of 1 pint of sugar and 1 pint of water, when cold, thin with the juice of 6 lemons and enough water to make rich lemonade. When half frozen, add the following : Take the remaining pint of sugar, moistened with water, boiled into very soft candy ; while hot, add the stiffly beaten whites of the 4 eggs, flavor with vanilla, add a little cream of tartar, beat hard until thick and add to the half-frozen lemonade. The result will be found to be a most delicious sherbet. Ijemou Sherbet — II. Sometimes lemon jelly made with gela- tine will not solidify. In such a case, add 2 stiff whites of eggs and a little sugar to a quart of the jelly, and freeze it as lemon ice. It will be found to be delicious, and that the egg removes the coarse, snowy taste of the average water ice. A lemon .sherbet is some- times made likd" lemon jelly with gelatine and frozen. . Strawberry Sherbet. — Mash 2 quarts of strawberries with 2 pounds of sugar, and let the mixture stand an hour or more. ' Squeeze in a straining cloth, pressing out all the juice. Add an equal mea- sure of water, and when half frozen add the beaten whites of eggs in the proportion of 3 eggs to a quart. Orange Sherbet. — Grate the rinds of 4 oranges and steep them 10 m-inutes in a pint of water. Strain this upon 1 pound of sugar, add a pint of orange juice, and when cold pour into the freezer. When half frozen add the whites of 4 eggs beaten to a stiff froth. The juice of 1 lemon will assist the flavor. i Apricot Sherbet. — Three cupfuls of apricots, cut fine ; 1 cupful sugar ; 2 cupfuls water ; kernels of one-half the apricots ; 2 whites of eggs. If the fresh fruit be used, reserve 1 cupful of the ripest. Stew the other 2 cupfuls with the kernels in the water and sugar 5 minutes. 622 ICES AND ICE CREAM. Rub the fruit through a strainer, with the syrup ; pour into the freezer. When nearly frozen, add the whites of 2 eggs, well beaten, and turn the freezer a few minutes longer. Stir in the cut apricots just before serving. Canned apricots can be used7 and if in syrup that can be added also. Pineapple Sherbet. — Pare and grate 2 large pineapples, or use 1 can, which cut in small dice, and use the syrup. Place 1 quart of- water, with lyi pounds of sugar, over the fire to boil. Boil 5 minutes. When cold add juice of 2 good-sized lemons and the grated pineapple. Turn into the freezer and stir until frozen. Beat the white of 1 egg to a stiff froth, add to it 1 table^poonful powdered sugar ; beat again. Remove the dasher, stir in the egg, and repack. Stand aside for 2 hours to ripen. Grape Sberbet. — Put in a saucepan half a pound of granulated sugar and 1 quart of water. -- Let it boil a few moments ; take from the fire and add the juice of 1 lemon and a tablespoonful of gelatine that has been dissolved in a gill of water. When cool, add a half pint of juice from any- dark, rich grape, and turn into a freezer and freeze. When frozen, and before you remove the beater, add the white of an egg beaten to a /roth, with 1 tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Stir thoroughly into the sherbet, cover and repack, and stand in a cool place for 2 hours. Milk Sherbet. — Squeeze 3 large lemons or 4 small ones, and to the juice add 2 cups of sugar and 1 teaspoonful of lemon essence ; then put in 1 quart of milk and freeze. This is considered delicious. Sorbets. Sorbets are merely a variation of water ices, secured by adding various wines and liquors to the original water ice. A very colorable imitation, jn these days when so many people deprecate the use of much strong liquor, is to use the liqueur syrups, which contain no alco- hol, or else to substitute the lighter " granito," which abroad is used at any time of the day to quench thirst. Of course these are, strictly speaking, not " sorbets " at all, as this word has come to signify a water ice strongly fortified with alcohol, but at the same time they are much more like the original " sherbet," and are very tempting. Sor- bets may be served in old-fashioned wineglasses, Venetian glass china cups, or plain Nuremberg beakers, as may be most convenient. ICES AND ICE CREAM. 528 Sorbets are always nicer if garnished with fresh fruit correspond- ing to or contrasting with the fruit used in the sorbet itself; and this fruit should always be, so to speak, marinaded with either wine, spirit, lemon juice, liqueur or liqueur syrup, and caster sugar, and set either in the ice cave or in ice for an hour or so- before using. "^ Banana Sorbet. — Banana sorbet is a most palatable ice. Feel and pound half a dozen ripe bananas and add a teacupful of loaf sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of water. Half freeze and add a wine- glass of any liquor before completing the process. It is never pos-, sible to freeze sorbets as firm as plain water ices. The spirits prevent complete congealing. Sorbet de Baisin au Xerea. — To a pint of lemon water ice add a wineglassful of elderflower water and ? good wineglassfuls of sherry. Punch Souffle a la Francaise. — P*our a pint of perfectly boiling water on 2 ounces of good tea, and let it infuse^ for 5 minutes ; then strain it ofT, and let it get cool. Whip 4 raw yolks of eggs for 5 min- utes with 3 ounces of sugar, the strained juice of 1 large or 2 small lemons, and a spoonful or so of arrack or good rum, and to this add the cold tea, gradually whipping it all the time ; then strain it, add to it half a pint of very thick and stiffly whipped cream, put it into a read)r-papered souffle mould, and freeze in the charged ice cave for 2 or 3 hours. The great point -to observe in making this punch is to have the tea good, and to be particular as to the water, which must be freshly boiled, and just boiling when poured on to the tea leaves. This is scarcely a sorbet, but it is nevertheless a form of punch wHich has met with much jsuccess. There is also a form of sorbet, or rather of water ice, much liked in Italy.called a " granito," a water ice com- posed of plain sugar and water syrup, and fruit oi* wine, but not spirit. Wild Cherry and Almond Sorbet. — One quart water, 1 pint white sugar, juice of 1 lemon, 6 sweet almonds, blanched and pound- ed ; 1 bitter almond, a wineglassful of wild cherry syrup. Freeze in a freezer ; when half frozen, add the beaten whites of 3 eggs. Serve in glass cups. The yolks of the eggs can be used in the mayonnaise dressing for the celery salad. There are only a few of these sorbets given, since it is not the purpose of this book to give recipes that make use of wine in their con^osition. Coffee. — ^The best coffee 'will be found to be a mixture of two-thirds Java with one-third. Mocha, Buy ready roasted unless you ownH rotary roaster; keep in an air-tight jar, and grind only as required. When eggs are plen- tiful and cheap save all the shells ; when they have accumulated, crush them very fine and dry^ them. Beat half a dozen eggs and stir the shells into the mixture ; spread and dry quickly. Put into a thin muslin bag anc^ hang' near the fire, to keep the contents dry. When eggs are high or scarce, a tablespoonful of this mixture, soaked in cold water several hours, will settle coffee as well as a whole egg. Heat dry coffee before pouring on the water. Put the ground coffee in the pot,-arid then shake it about on the stove until thoroughly heated, and then pour on the boiling water. In this way ' the heated ground coffee imparts to the fluid an extra pungency ot flavor and richness. Tea or chocolate should never be served with fried foods. Always serve coffee with fried oysters, fish, or lobsters, also with cheese. Milk which has changed may be rendered fit for use again by stirring in a little soda. How to detect CMckory in Ground Coflfee. — Shake a spoonful of coffee with a wineglass of cold water, and then place the glass on the table. If the coffee is pure, it will rise to the surface and scarcely color the liquid ; but if not, it will sink to the bottom and the water will be tinged red. ' The art of " Pouring." — Fev; hostesses understand the art of pouring tea and coffee, simple as it appears. As a rule, the guest of honor is offered the first cup, which is the weakest, and the children, if served at all, are given the last and strongest. When it is desirable to have all the cups of uniform strength, one should pour a little into each, and then begin -over again, reversing the order. In England this is so well understood that a pourer of tea or coffee does not begin to replenish the cups till all are before her. Dripped Coffee. — An ideal cup of coffee can, it is said, be made ")nly in one way. The coffee must be of the best quality^ roasted, 524 TABLE DRINKS. 525 ground immediately, and used as quickly as possible. The best kind of coffee-pot is one that has a filter. They can be had of many sizes and shapes, all the way from simplicity to an extreme of elegance. To secure a good infusion quickly, the ground coffee should be placed in the cylinder on top of the coffee-pot, the strainer should be pressed down on top of the coffee, and the boiling water should be poured over so that the infusion runs slowly. While it filters, the pot ought to- stand in a vessel containing very hot water, so that the infusion may keep a high degree of heat without allowing it to boil; Boiling is the spoiling of coffee. Have ready the cups, heated by pouring boiling water in them ; put in the required quantity of cream and sugar, then fill up with the distilled nectar from the coffee-pot, and one has a beverage that is a revelation. Steamed Coffee. — Put the required amount of coffee and water in the coffee-pot. Set this in a kettle of boiling water. Let it boil half an hour or longer. The coffee will need no- settling, and will be clear as crystal ; or, a tin inside may be made for the coffee-pot, after the style of a dripper, only without the perforations, and somewhat deeper.- Put 4 or 5 inches of water in the coffee-pot. Hang the inner compartment inside, and in this put the coffee and water. Let boil. This is one of the best "Ways known for preparing coffee, and also an economical one as stronger coffee can be made from a leu amount than in any other way. 526 TABLE DRINKS. Boiled Coffee. — One tablespoonfirl for each person to be served, and 1 for the pot. Put the coffee in the pot with part of an egg, unless already prepared as above given ; pour over it 1 cupful cold water, and let steep. When the water in the kettle boils add the necessary amount, and let boil 5 nainutes. Pour out half a cupful before serv- ing, to clear the strainer. This (if no other precaution is used)^ turned back into the can from a little distance above it, will usually clear the coffee thoroughly. To retain the aroma while boiling, close up the spout. Meringued Coffee. — Make the coffee the usual way. Put into each cup the desired amount of sugar and a tablespoon boiling milk. Make a meringue by mij?ing the white of an egg, well beaten, with one-half pint of whipped cream. Lay a heaping spoonful upon the top of each cup before serving. ~~^ Sweet Corn poffee. — Try it for the sick ones. Take nice sweet corn, fan out all the hulls and silk, roast it in the oven; do not let it burn, hut keep watch of it, and have it a rich brown-^ pound it or grind it. Take 2 tablespoonfuls to a little water, let it steep a few min- utes, strain, serve with cream Tea or Ooflfee Strainer. and sugar, or take it clear. It is very nice, and is considered palatable by most coffee drinkers, Cafe-au-Iiait. — Prepare 1 quart of strong, hot coffee in any pre- ferred manner. Strain into a hot coffee-pot. Add an equal amount of boiling milk. Cover closely with a thick cloth for 5 miriutes before serving. " Whip the whites of 3 eggs to a stiff froth. Sweeten to the taste, and put 1 large spoonful of this in each cup. Cafe-mi- , Jait may be made without this last addition. Substitute for Cream. — Beat up a fresh egg in a basin and then pour boiling tea over it gradually, stirring constantly to prevent curd- \. ling. Make it the consistency of thick cream. Or, boil milk in a double boiler until it thickens ; the beaten yolk of an egg is an addi- tion. Iced Coffee. — Take strong cdffee, one-half the amount of milk, a generous seasoning of cream, and sweeten to taste. Put in a refrig- erator directly on the ice until thoroughly chilled. TABLE . DRINKS. 527 Creamed Coffee. — To 5 cups of good clear coffee add 1 dup of cream and bring to boil. = '^ - Eggr CoflFee* — A novel drink for the breakfast on a hot morning is " egg coffee," which, with bread and fruit to make up the necessary bulk for the stomach, has been found an excellent repast. If the coffee is to be served cold, shake an egg, some bits of sugar and ice together, then add cold cafe-au-lait. If hot liquid is used, put the egg, cream and sugar in a glass, and shake thoroughly, then add the hot coffee, stirring quickly all the time. Cafe a~la Delmonico. — This is a delicious luncheon, or " high tea," drink. To the making of it goes the tall glass of splintered ice, the pow- dered sugar, the hot coffee, which is cold by the time it gets to the bot- tom of the glass, and, to top off, a generous spoonful of stiffly whipped cream. This is to be stirred into Tea Kettle, the coffee as it is drunken. The flavor is exquisite. Syrup of Coflfee.-'— Syrup of coffee is useful for those who wish to take coffee with them on a journey in as small a quantity as possi- ble. Make it thus : Take a pound of best freshly-ground coffee and place it in a saucepan with 5 pints of water and boil it down to 1 pint. Strain the liquor, and when it is nearly cold place it in another saucepan to boil again. As it boils add sufficient loaf sugar to make it of the consistency of syrup. Let the sugar thoroughly dissolve, then boil up, take it from the fire, and when cold bottle and seal it. When required for use place a teaspoonful of the coffee in a breakfast cupful of boiling water or milk, whichever is preferred. Tea. „ Although the process of making this favorite beverage is exceed- ingly simple, there is really no article of daily consumption which meets with greater failure in the preparation. The very best quality fi2S TABLE DRINKS. should always be procured ; one should never begrudge the money ' which is spent in such a cause of health and pleasure. The water with which the tea is to be made should be freshly drawn from the Five O'clock Tea. faucet, and put into a kettle which is peifectly clean. The water should then be brought quicklytp boiling point, for long simmering makes it flat and lifeless, and it should not be allowed to boil longer than 5 minutes before being used for this purpose, for, in this way. TABLE DRINKS. 629 through long boiling, the water lobes most of its g^s. Tea should never be boiled. After tea stands a while, the tanni'fc acid which it contains develops and makes it' bitter. The tea-pot should always be thoroughly cleansed after befng used and carefully put away. An earthenware or china tea-pot should always' be used; a tin one should never, on any account, be employed, for if the tea is left standing in it for any length of time it becomes absolutely poisonous and unfit for use. The Chinese never use milk or sugar. To do so spoils the flavor of the tea. Keep tea in little taddies with closely-fitting covers to keep the flavor. A Cup of Good Tea. — A mixed tea is preferred by most tastes. A good mixture is one-third black and two-thirds green. Some pre- fer half-and-half. If strong tea is desired, use 1 teaspoonful for each person. Otherwise less may be used. Some teas require to be steeped much longer than others, in order to properly extract their flavor and strength, but this can only be learned by experience. The tea-pot should be well scalded by rinsing it out with boiling water, then, while it is still hot, the necessary amount of tea should be placed therein, and a sufficient quantity of the boiling water should be added to thoroughly saturate it. This should be left under a 4ea-cosy or upon the back of the stove to steep for about 5 minutes, after which time the required quantity of boiling water should be poured in and the tea should be served at once. Count the water by cupfuls until the capacity of the tea-pot is ascertained. This beverage should be made just before wanted for the table and should be used at once. A very excellent plan adopted by many English families is to have the tea brewed upon the table. A silver kettle of water should be placed upon the table in the dining- room, brought to the boiling point by means of a small alcohol lamp which is attached to the kettle beneath. The steeping is then accom- plished by means of a tea-cosy, or a turned-down flame of the spirit lamp. Tea, especially at receptions and afternoon teas, is made thus, or in the cups themselves. A silver tea ball, under these circum- stances, does away with the tea leaves in the cup. English breakfast tea (black) requires 10 minutes to steep. If black tea should chance to boil, it is not ruined in flavor like green tea. If the tea should happen to be too strong, weaken by the addition of a little boiling water. COOK— 34 530 TABLE DRINKS. Russian Tea. — Russian tea is so much, more refreshing, as well as so much more appetizing, to most palates, than the average bever- age offered at 5 o'clock, that one wonders that it is not oftener met with. It need not contain the often-added drop of cordial; but a slice of lemon alone, without any cream and preferably no sugar, gives a very piquant flavor to what, to the American taste, is rather an insipid drink. Tea Punch, a la Busse. — ^The ingredients are enough finely cracked ice to two-thirds fill a tall glass, as much powdereH sugar as one would drink in a glass that size of any tea, plus an extra spoon- ful to offset the lemon juice, which goes next. Over this pour the tea. This should be freshly made and preferably hot. It gets cold by the time the glass is filled^ percolating over the ice, and a whip or two of a mixing, spoon will finish off the mixture to the taste of all the gods that like a tea flavor. There is less tannic acid by using boiling tea than by first allowing the tea to cool. Iced Tea. — Iced tea can be made from either green or black tea, but a mixture of the two is an improvement on either of them alone. Prepare the tea in the morning, making it stronger than usyal. It is better not to sweeten until you have learned the tastes of the guests. Strain and pour into a stone jug or glass bottle, and place in the ice-chest until ready .to serve. Pour it in goblets and never use cream. "^ Serve the ice cracked on plates garnished with well-washed fruit leaves. Slice of lemon can be put in each ^ass. Chocolate. For those who wish to keep the imagination fresh ahd vigorous, chocolate is the beverage of beverages. However copiously you have lunched, a cup of chocolate immediately afterward will pro- duce digestion three hours after and prepare the way for a go^d dinner. It is recommended to every one who devotes to brain work the hours he should pass in bed. The merest dash of cinnamon in a cup of chocolate, after it is poured, is said to add a piquant and un» distinguishable flavor. ^ Ctocolate (Plain). — Put into a covered pot, set in boiling wate?, 1 quart of new rhilk ; stir into it 3 heaping tablespoonfuls grated chocolate mixed to a paste with xold milk; let it boil 5 minutes, stirring, and serve at once. To make good chocolate, of course good TABLE DRINKS. 531 materials are required. If it is not wanted so rich, use milk and water, half-and-half. Take off the scum that rises, and serve with sugar and cream. You can cook either cocoa or chocolate practically forever in water only, provided that you do not put in the boiling milk until 5 minutes before you want to serve it. Take out as mudh as you want tojadd the milk to, and let the remainder simmer in water over the fire until wanted again. This is very convenient where the family cannot all. be served at once. Hot crackers, or cheese crack- ers, are very nice to serve with it. Yieuna Gbocolate. — One quart of milk, 3 heaping table- spoonfuls of grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Allow the milk to come to a boil, put in the chocolate and boil about 5 minutes, or UHtil of desired thickness. After remwving it from the fire sea- son with the essence of vanilla . according to taste. The choco- late should then be poured into dainty cups while still in the kitchen, and served quickly and steam- ing hot. Fill the cups two-thirds full with the delicious brown mix- ture and add thick beaten cream. This addition constitutes the making of the famous Vienna chocolate. Boil in a double boiler, or stir constantly while boiling. Cocoa. — Dissolve 1 teaspoon heaping full of cocoa in half a cup- ful of boiling water ; when mixed, add a cupful of hot milk, stir until it boils well, and serve at once, sweetened to taste. In making cocoa, it will be found much more delicious if a little flavoring is added to that already in the stuff, as prepared at the manufactory. Iced Cocoa. — Put 1 heaping teaspoonful of cocoa to each half pint of boiling water in a double boiler ; mix, and cook for 5 mjnutes and swtttten. Take from fire, and when cold add half a cup of good cream. Beat the whole until light. Fill the glasses half full of crackfto Ice, pour in the- cocoa, and serve. 632 TABLE DRINKS. Lemonade. Liemonade (Plain). — Qrate the yellow rind from the lemons. Roll until soft. Peel off the bitter white rind of the lemon, cut in two, and squeeze wiih. a lemon squeezer. Drop the pulp and grated rind in the pitcher with tjie juice. One large lemon, or 2 small ones will make 4 small glasses of lemonade. Stir in 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls^ of sugar, and pour in 4 glasses of water. Stir and add cracked' ice, or set on ice for half an hour. It is nicer strained before serving. A circular slice of lemon in each glass adds to the appearance. Lemonade has more "body" if the sugar used in sweetening is reduced to a syrup before adding to the lemonade. Take half pound of sugar and boil it with 1 pint of water, and the lemon rinds,~ to a syrup. Remove the rinds before using to sweeten. Boiled liemonade'. — The best authorities teach that lemonade made with boiling water is much more delicious than an ordinary cold water lemonade. Wash and wipe a lemon carefully. Cut a slice or two from the centre of the lemon, and squeeze the remainder with, a powerful lemon-squeezfer, so as to extract a little of the essential oil of the skin. Add sugar enough to sweeten, and pour half a pint of ■ freshly boiled water over it. When perfectly ice-cold, serve it with a little cracked ice in the bottom of the glass, and a slice of lemon floating on the top. The proportions are, 4 lemons, half pound loaf sugar, 3 pints boiling water, for a larger quantity. Rub the lumps over the rind of lemons to extract the oil, press out juice, add boiling water, cool, ^nd put in ice-box. "Egg liemonadeS. — Egg lemonade is a delicious drinkr ^'ake 2 fresh eggs and beat the whites and yolks, separately, until as light as possible. To half a pint of boiling water add the juice of 2 large lemons and half a cupful of sugar. Stir until it is dissolved, and add quickly a pint of ice broken very fine. Mix the whites and yolks of the eg^s well in one vessel, raise the lemonade well above them, and pour it in ; turn quickly into another pitcher, and back again into the first. When well mixed, serve at once. A quicker way is to add a fresh, lightly beaten egg to a glass of strong lemonade. A nourish- ing drink foj: a convalescent. Milk Xiemonade. — Squeeze the juice ©f a nice fresh lemon into a glass, remove all of the seeds, and add siigai- to taste. I use 2, level TABLE DRINKS. 533 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Have in another glass some fresh sweet milk with plenty of ice in it ; pour this cold milk on the sweetened lemon juice, stirring to prevent curdling. Then place one glass over the other and shake briskly until it foams. A mo?t refreshing, deli- cious drink. Pineapple liemonade. — '' Pineapple lemonade is a most delight- ful and refreshing summer drink. To make a good lemonade, make a syrup of 1 pound of sugar and 1}4 cups of water. Prepare the pineapple by grating, paring and removing the seeds. Add to it the juice of 3'lemons and the hot syrup. When cool mix with 2 cups of water, ice, and serve, and you have a drink fit for the gods." Fruit Lieiuonade. — Fruit lemonade is a great improvement over plain lemonade, and is made by adding the juice of 2 oranges and a half pint of strawberries to every half dozen lemons. First roll the lemons and carefully scrape off any small black specks that may ap- pear upon the surface ; then, with a sharp knife, slice them thin, taking pains to remove the seeds. Place the lemons jn a'pitcher from which the drink is to be served, and pour a cupful of granulated sugar over them. Then, with a wooden pestle, mash the lemons well, and add the other fruit juice. Heap a pint of chopped ice ov^r all and allow it to stand a few moments before adding the water and remainder of sugar. This receipt should make fully 3 pints of finely-flavored lem- onade. The amount of sugar required must depend upon the acidity of the fruit. When strawberries are not in season, blood oranges may be substituted, and the flavor will be enhanced by the addition of small cubes of pineapple. Orangreade. — Slice 2 oranges and 1 lemon ; pour over them 1 quart of boiling water, sweeten to taste. Place on ice to cool. This is delicious. Ginirerade. — Half a cup of >inegar, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teaspooii- fuls of ginger. Stir thoroughly ; put in a quart pitche;- and fill with ice water. Ginirer Beer.— A glass of home-made ginger beer, with a lump of ice in it, is always a pleasant drink on a hot day. Take a cjeep earthenware kettle, slice 4 lemons, place therir In the kettle, add i^ pounds of loaf sugar, and 1% ounces of root-ginger, slightly bruised. Pour over these ingredients 2 gallons of boiling water, and when nearly cold pour in a dessertspoonful of fresh brewers' yeast. Cover 534 TABLE DRINKS. this with a thin cloth, and let the mixture stand for 24 liours. Strain and bottle it, and place in a cool cellar. Where lemons are not at hand, 1 tablespo«i©%J of citrip acid and 1 teaspponful of essence of fcmon can be used in place of each lemon. Gingerette. — :Eut 2 gallons of water, 8 sliced leniQns, seeds re- moved, and 2 ounces of bruised ginger-root in a porcelain kettle and boil 10 minutes. While this is boiling, put 4 pounds of granulated sugar in 2 gallons of cold water ; add 1 ounce of cream of tartar, and Btir until the sugar is dissolved. Turn all in a large stone crock or jar, mix well and add three-fourths cup of yeast. Let it stand over \iight, and bottle after straining. Healthful, cooling and refreshing. Hop Beer. — Boil 1 teacup of loose hops, strain over 1 teaspoon- ful ginger, and 1 teacup of molasses ; add water until lukewarm ; dis- solve 1 yeast-cake and add. Put into a gallon jug and fill with luke- warm water. (The yeast must not be scalded.) Set in tin pan and pour boiling water round it and let work over night. When worked, cork and set in cool place. Boot Beer. — For each gallon of water to be used, take hops, bur- dock, yellow dock, sarsaparilla, dandelion, and spikenard roots, bruised, of each one-half ounce. Boil about 20 minutes and strain ; while hot add 8 or 10 drops of oils of spruce and sassafras mixed in equal portions ; when cool enough not to scald yoiir hand, strain and add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast ; molasses, two-thirds of a pint ; or sugar, one-half pound, gives it about the right sweetness. Keeip these proportions for as many gallons as wished. After all is mixed let it stand in a jar with a cloth thrown over it, to work about 2 hours, then bottle and set in a cool place. In about, 3 days it will be ready for use. Excellent and wholesome.. Beer bottles with patent corks are best for bottling all these home-made beers. Spruce Beer. — Put a quart of molasses in a saucepan, with a gal- lon of water and half an ounce each of white ginger-root and sassa- fras. Set over the fire and let simmer for 2^ hours, strain into a large stone jar, add 1]4 gallons more water. When lukewarm, stir in half a yeast cake, cover, and set in a warm place for 8 hours. Bottle, add 10 raisins to each bottle, cork securely, and set on ice for 3 days, when the beer is ready for use. Konmis, or Milk Beer. — ^Take 3 quarts of fresh, rich milk, 3 of hot water, half pound of white *igar, and 1 teacup of good yeast; TABLE DRINKS. 635 dissolve the sugar in the water, add to the milk, let the mixture cool till lukewarm; and then add the yeast ; set the whole in a warm place, as you would for bread to rise, stirring it every 20 minutes, and in 5 or 6 hours it will be slightly sparkling, and siftall bubbles will rise to the surface when stirred. Now put into very stout bottles, tie down corks and set the bottles in a cooT place. A thick mass of casein will form on the surface, and when it begins to separate, twice a day for several days shake the bottle, and this will fall in a powder to the bottom. When 2 days old it is ready for use, and it will keep a week, but is best when fiom 2 to 4 days old. It is highly efferves- cent, and a champagne top should be used in the bottle. Turn the mouth into a pitcher, covering the pitcher with a cloth, and let the liquid out very carefully. It should properly be used 3 times a day, a glass before each meal. In starting a new lot, instead of yeast use a bottle of old koumis. If there be too much alcohol generated, put in less sugar. This is recommended for a weak stomach, and is healthful for young children. Raspberry Cordial. — Real raspberry cordial is prepared by mashing 4 quarts of ripe berries in a stone jar, with 1 pound of white sugar. Pour over them 1 quart of the best cider vinegar, and set the jar in the hot sunshine for 4 hours, after whith the mixture is strained, bottled and sealed. Lay the bottles on their sides in. a cool 636 TABLE DRINKS. cellar, and for drinking mix in the proportions of 2 tablespoonfuls to a tumbler of iced water. Raspberry Vinegar. — To 4 quarts of red raspberries piit vinegar enough to cover, and let stand 24 hours. Scald and strain it, add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of juice, boil it 20 minutes and bottle, I( will keep for years. To 1 glass' of water add a great spoonful. A most refreshing drink for the sick. Strawberry Vinegar. — Make in the same manner as Raspberry Vinegar. Currant Vinegar may also be made in the same way. Currant Shrub.—Pick thoroughly ripe currants, not overripe, or the shrub will have a purple color. Strain through a flannel bag or other heavy cloth. Take a pint of currant juice, add to this some block or granulated sugar, and let it stand in the ice-chest until ready for use. Pour some in a glass and add water to suit the taste. The currant and sugar can stand on the ice for 24 hours, then make fresh* Red raspberries can be used in the same way, only add a very little currant juice to give it character. Fruit Sherbet. — Fruit sherbets can easily be made at home, and they are quite as good as those sold at the confectioner's. Mash any ripe fruit,, and pass it through a coarse sieve and then through a fine sieve. To every quart of juice add a quart of water and sweeted" with powdered sugar. When the sugar is dislsolved, strain again and keep in ice-box till wanted. Fruit Syrups. — With a good supply of syrups, which should occupy a conspicuous place in every cooling-room, many refreshing and pleasant drinks can be quickly mixed. Syrups made at home from the best and freshest fruit are much better than most that can be got from the chemists. Cordials that are on sale rarely contain any genuine fruit juice. The best receptacles for the fruits and juices during the different processes to which they must be submitted are those made of stone and granite ware. Tin vessels not- only discolor the syrup, but will often impart an unpleasant taste. A refreshing drink, quickly made, is that evolved by putting into a tumbler a liberal tablespoonful of almost any kind of syrup — ^pine- apple is always successful — a tablespoonful of thick cream, and then filling the glass from a syphon of iced soda-water. This is a drink particularly suitable for garden and tennis parties. Straws should be furnished for such drinks as contain cracked ice and fruit slices. A TABLE DRINKS. 53T delicious beverage can be made by taking 3 bananas and rubbing them through a sieve; add the juice of one lemon. Pour over the pulp a half-pint of boiling water. When cold, stir it well, sweeten and strain. Then add a bottle of soda-water and cracked ice. Delicious fruit syrups which ought to be kept on hand for these drinks are only the fruit juices impregnated with a sufficient quantity of sugar to preserve them and retain them in the fluid state. A sure way to prepare a good syrup is to use powdered loaf sugar, mixing it thoroughly with a wooden spoon until the sugar is dissolved. The dish should be placed in a pan of boiling water, and thus the small particles of sugar become dissolved without any risk of burning. Beverages concocted by the use of syrups are the most popular, and the syrups that should ever be kept on hand are spiced black- berry, raspberry, orange, quince, apple and peach, syrup of orange peel, strawberry, pineapple, pear, cherry, lemon, essence of lemon or orange, and mixed syrup. This latter syrup, of excellent flavor, may be made by mixing two different fruits together, as raspberry, red or black, and currants, or raspberries with cherries. Lemon juice may be added to apple, and pineapple is a fine addition to any of the fruit,-^ but is rather expensive for liberal use. Currant Syrup, — ^Take 3 pounds of red and 3 pounds of white currants; 1 pound of cherries or 1 pouiid of raspberries would be an improvement, but they can be dispensed with ; bruise the fruit slightly and put it into an earthen jar; cover this closely, put it into a sauce- pan of cold water and let the fruit simmer gently until the juice flows freely; strain and leave until the next day in a cool place. Pour off the juice, weigh, and add an equal weight of sugar. Let simmer, and stir frequently, but do not let it boil. Skim carefully, and then put in an earthen jar to cool. In 12 hours it maybe put into a small-sized dry bottle, corked and sealed, and stored in a cool but dry place. When mixed with cold water it makes a refreshing sum- mer drink, and is especially suited to invalids. Cherry Water. — Bruise and rub through a hair-sieve enough ripe cherries to produce a pint of juice. Add to this a pound of pulverized sugar, a quart of water and sufficient ice to cool. Cranberry Water. — Boil craaberries with half their weight in sugar, and half their measure of water ; simmer half an hour and strain through a jelly-bag. Cool and drink with cracked ice. 538 TABLE DRINKS. Fruit Punches (Temperance). PineapplelPunch.— Pineapple punch for a summer drink : The juice of 6 oranges and 6 lemons, si^gar to taste, adding, to chopped ice, some sliced pineapple, and pouring over it 2 quarts of water. ... Orange Pimcb. — The following recipe is given fQi;afruit drink suitable for a luncheon : It is made from orange juice, and is pro- nounced a very pleasant drink. The juice is served in tall glasses, and is undiluted; Into each glass are dropped 4 slices of banana, a Tokay grape cut and seeded, a slice from a tart apple and a pitich of sugar. The drink, of course, is intended to be sipped through th^ courses, and may be the only one served. Lemon Punch. — Put 1 pound of sugar and 1 quart of water over the fire to boil. When boiling begins, add the grated rind of 1 lemon. Continue boiling 15 minutes, and then set it away to cool. Add the juice of 4 lemons and 3 oranges. Ice and serve. Fruit Puncli. — Put 1 pint of water, 1 pound of sugar, and chip- ped yellow rind of a lemon on to boil. Boil 6 minutes after it begins to boil. Strain, and while hot add 1 banana slicedj 1 pineapple grated, and quarter pound of stoned cherries. When ready to serve, add juice of 8 lemons. Pour it in a punch bowl, place in the centre a large piece of ice and pour in '2 quarts of apollinaris, mix and serve. - A dozen strawberries may be sliced in at the lAst moment. Soda Water. — ^The soda water that is best and purest is that which is made at home, and here is the formula for it : Simple syrup, 12 ounces; 'flavor, 5 ounces of any good fruit juice; citric acid, 1 ounce. To serve put 1 ounce of syrup in an ordinary tumbler and fill two-thirds with water. Then add a small amount of bicarbonate of soda on the end of a spoon. Stir rapidly and drink. Soda Water Powders. — Have put in blue paper 30 grainf of car- bonate of soda, in white paper 25 grains of tartaric acid. Dissolve the soda powder in half a glass of water and stir into it the acid, and drink while effervescing. If you desire syrup, make it out of sugar boiled in water, and flavor as you like. Dissolve the soda in the sjrrup. Excellent to allay thirst in warm weather. Mead. — One quart of boiling water, one-half pint of molasses, 2^ pounds of brown sugar, bne-half ounce of flavoring extract, 2 ounces of tartaric acid. Put the water, sug^r, molasses and acid together, \ TABLE DRINKS. 639 and when the mixture is cold add the extract, which may be the essence of wintergreen or sassafras, or any other^ kind used for such a purpose. Bottle, and set away in a cold place. To make the mead, place_2 tablespoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of ice water, stir until well mixed, and add a quarter of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda to render the drink effervescent. — Sterilizing Milk. — Provide 6 or 8 half-pint bottles, according to the number of times the child is fed during the 24 hours. Put the proper amount of food for one feeding in each bottle, and use a tuft of cotton batting as a stopper. Have a saucepan that the bottles can stand in conve- niently. Invert a perforated tin pie plate in the bottom, and put in enough water to come above the milk in the bottles. .Stand the bottles on it ; when the water boils draw the saucepan to a cooler part of the stove, where the water will remain near the boiling point, but not actually boiling. Cover the saucepan, and let the bottles remain in it 1 hour, cool place in winter. SarsaparUla Mead. — Boil a quarter of a pound of Spanish sarsa- parilla in water for 5 hours, keep enough water on it so that when it is strained off there will be a quart of the liquid, after straining add to this "quart of liquid of sarsaparilla 4 pounds of granulated sugar and, 2 ounces of tartaric acid. Allow a wineglassful of this prepara- tion and half a teaspoonful of soda to half a pint of water. Champagne Cider.^Get the best apple cider and freeze it. Draw out the cider, put into the bottles, boil the corks, which must be good ones, and drive the soft corks down in the bottles, and in a few days (weeks or months are better) you will have a fine, sparkling champagne. Sweet Cider (to Keep).— Let sweet cider be heated carefully up to boiling point. Skim and seal up. The best way to heat it is Put them in the ice-box, or a 540 TABLE DRINKS. to put it in a glazed jug. Set the jug in boiling water and keep it there until the cider '-comes to a boiling point. Then; remove, cork the jug and seal it. ' Sweet Cider (to Keep). — II. When new cider is beginning to ferment, add to it (mixing thoroughly) 1 pound of granulated sugar to every gallon of cider. The sugar arrests fermentation. Keep the cask in a cool place, and use'"as required. It has been kept perfectly sweet in this manner for two years. Cold Milk Shake. — Take a pint of fresh milk that has not .been skimmgd, a few dnSps of your favorite essence, a tablespoonful of sugar, and mix them thoroughly and put in a quart pitcher with half a pint of pounded ice. -Take your egg-beater, one that turns on a crank, and beat the mixture for a moment, stirring briskly. It will- foam to the top of the pitcher in no time, and when it does, it is ready to drink. It is delicious. Oatmeal Harvest Drink.-^Stir a pint of oatmeal into a pail of ice water. Nobody seems to be able to tell the peculiar properties of oatmeal as a drink, but that it is ^ great cooler and a pleasant stimulant there is no doubt. Some Medicinal Liquors. Spiced Blackberry Brandy. — One gallon brandy or whiskey, 2 boxes fresh blackberries, 5 cents' worth stick cinnamon, 5 cents' worth cloves, or 12 cloves to a bottle ; 10 cents' worth candied orange or lemon peel, three-quarters cupful of sugar to each bottle. Use quart bottles. Stand bottles in the sun 4 wef ks. Excellent for sum- mer diseases. A tried recipe. Blackberry Wine. — To 2 quarts of blackberry juice add 3 quarts of water (put the fruit in the water after the juice has been pressed from it and strain), add 5 pounds of brown sugar and one-half pound seed raisins ; be sure to seed the raisins, as the seeds give the wine a brackish taste; mix all well together, and put in a large jug; cork loosely ; set in a cool cellar. It will take about six weeks to work. Then-cork tightly and let it remain inAhe jug three months longer, then strain and bottle, seal. Blackberry wine possesses highly medicinal qualities. Scientists tell us-that the food value of sugar is very great. A pound of sugar contains much more energy and power to support animal life than a pound of meat. If candy is taken under such conditions that it will not derange the digestive apparatus, it is perfectly wise and rational to be a candy-eater. And if candies are to be eaten, those prepared at home are sure to be free from injurious ingredients* Colorings for Candies. — The colorings most used in candies are pink, yellow, amber or light brown, green and dark red, and from combining these many tints can be obtained. You can prepare all these at home. Cochineal. — Use this, a drop at a time, carefully, as it will color very deeply. A small quantity will go a good way. Yellow. — Get ten cents' worth of Spanish saffron, and boil it in half a pint of water till reduced one-quarter. Strain this liquid through muslin, squeezing hard. This is also a very strong coloring fluid. Green. — Pistache candy gets its name from its green coloring, supposed to be obtained from the nuts, that are qvite tasteless and very costly. The flavor really is obtained from bitter almond, or almond and orange flower water, while the color is made from spinach. See rule before given. Cbocolate Caramels. — So many receipts for chocolate caramels call for cream, but i^ is not really necessary to use it when one has good butter. Here is a receipt which is cheap, simple, and never - fails : One cupful molasses, and 2 teacupfuls of white sugar ; dissolve over a fire, and add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a quarter of a ppund of grated chocolate. Boil until a small quantity, dropped in ice water, becomes quite firm, then pour into greased pans, and when cool cut iiito squares, which may be wrapped in greased squares of paper. The chocolate need not be grated ; break the large cake in halves, and put it in; the hea| rapidly dissolves it, and it is a waste of time to grate it. 642 CANDIES. Chocolate Caramels. — II. A more simple method of preparing the caramels with good results, is to take 1 pint of New Orleans molasses and 1 pint of brown sugar, and cook till brittle when tried in water. Then, just before removmg from the fire, add half a cake of Baker's chocolate. They have a fine flavor. Ifut Caramels. — Use the first rule given for caramels. Omit the chocolate, and add 1 1^ cupfuls of chopped peanuts or other nuts, i^hop them quite fine. Cream Caramels. — Half a pound of Baker's chocolate, grated fine ; sift 2 pounds of white sugar ; put with it 1 heaping teaspoonful of butter, ^1 teacupful thick sweet cream. ' Cook these ingredients until the mixture candies (it takes about 20 minutes' hard boiling). After taking from the fire, put in 1 teaspOonful of vanilla; this makes the dark part. . For the Cream. — Take 3 cupfuls of finest sifted white sugar and 1 cupful cream; ]^oil 20 minutes ; do not stir much. Flavor with the juice and grated peel of an orange. Butter a dish, pour upon it a layer of the dark part, letting it stand in a cool place until partly hardened. Next, add a layer of the white cream, which also allow a few minutes to harden. Lastly, cover with . another layer of the chocolate ; wh^n iiearly hard cut in squares. Tutti-Frutti Caramels. — Half a cupful of creani and 2 cupfuls of powdered sugar ; boil 5 minutes in a granite kettle, counting from the time it boils all over. Place the kettle in cold water and beat it until stiff enough to hold candied fruit. Add quarter of a pound of candied fruit, cut fine, and pour the cream into a narrow bread pan, buttered or lined with paraffin paper. The second layer is the same, using, in place of the fruit, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 1 small square of chocolate, melted. The third layer is colored pink with cochineal, and flavored with chopped almonds. The fourth layer is like the first. Cut in squares, ' ' Jujulbe Paste.— Take 2 cupfuls of sugar; one-quarter of a pound - of gum arable and 1 pint of water. Flavor with the essence of lemon and a grain of cochineal, Let the mixture stand until the gum is dissolved in a warm place on the back of the stove, then draw forward and cook until thick ; try in cold water. It should be lim- ber and bend when cold. Pour in buttered pans, an eighth of an inch thick. When cool, roll up in a scroll. CANDIES. 643 Barley Sugar. — Dissolve 1 yi pounds of loaf or granulated sugar in one-half pint of water ; add the white of 1 egg. When it has boiled sufficiently to snap in cold water, add the strained juice of 1 large lemon. Boil quickly until it candies as before ; then pour on a buttered slab or large platter. When it cdols, cut with a pair o{ scissors into narrow strips, cut these in squares, or twist them slightly, place on waxed paper to harden, "then pack away in a close-covered jar and keep in a dry place. Ice Cream Candy. — Bo^ 3 cups of sugar, a quarter of a teaspoon- ful of cream of tartar, and one-half cup of water together, but do not stir the syrup at all while boiling. Boil until, when a little is dropped, into cold water, it is brittle. Turn on to a large, well-but- tered platter or a marble slab that has been oiled, and> as it cools, fold the edges toward the centre. As soon as it can be handled, pull it until it is white. Flavor to suit. Cream Candy. — Four pounds of granulated sugar, 1 pint of water, 4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream, 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar, butter the size of an egg. Boil all slowly three-quarters of an hour. Pour on buttered tins to cool. Molasses Candy.~One quart molasses, one-half cup of vinegar, 1 cupful granulated sugar, butter the size of an egg, 1 teaspoonful soda. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar ; put in with molasses and butter, and boil, stirring often. As soon as it hardens when dropped in water, it is done. Then stir the soda in quickly and pour in but- tered pans to cool. Pull until white. Molasses Candy. — II. One pint molasses, 1 pound of brown sugar, one-quarter of a pound of butter. Boil until it hardens in cold water. Pour in well-greased pans, very thin. If the candy is to contain nuts of any kind, they should be placed in the pan before pouring the candy. Or it can be pulled as above. Cream Almonds. — Make cream candy as per rule for chocolate creams, and form it by hand around almond kernels, covering thickly. A crystallized appearance may be given by rolling them while moist in granulated sugar. Peppermint Drops. — ^Two cups of sugar, % cup of water ; boil 5 minutes, then remove from fire ; add small half teaspoon cream of tartar, flavor to taste with oil of peppermint or checkermint, and drop quickly on buttered paper. 544 CANDIES. Lemon or Orange Drops. — Grate the rind of 1 orange or lemotiy and squeeze the juice, taking care to reject the seeds, add to this a pinch of tartaric acid, then stir in confectioners' sugar until it is stiff , enough to form into small balls the size of small marbles. This is delicious candy. Lemon Drops. — II. Upon 1 cup of powdered sugar pour enough lemon juice to dissolve it, and boil it to a thick syrup ; drop on but- tered plates and set in a warm place to harden. Wintergreen, Ginger or Rose Drops. — Make as for pepper- mints, and flavor to taste. Color the rose with cochineal. For the ginger flavor with a teaspoonful of Jamaica ginger. Cream Peppermints.— Two cupfuls of confectioners' sugar, or fine granulated will do, 6 tablespoonfuls of hot water boiled together about three minutes, until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup looks elea.r. Do noi Stir the syrup. When done, pour into a bowl, add one-quarter of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar andjialf a teaspoonful of essence of peppermint. Beat with a spoon until white and creamy — about three minutes — then drop on paper or tins slightly buttered. The paper must be perfectly smooth, and the spoon twirled as you drop the cream, or the peppermints will not be round. The dropping must be done very rapidly, as the cream hardens quickly. "Vinegar Taffy. — ^Three cupfuls granulated sugar, one-half cupful vinegar, one-half cupful water, butter size of a walnut ; boil without stirring until it will candy when dropped into cold water. Flavor with lemon and pour out on a buttered dish. Cut into squares just before it hardens. Some cooks stir in ^ teaspoonful of soda just before taking up. Maple Wax. — Boil maple sugar with a little water to a thick syrup. When a little will harden readily on snow or ice, it is ready. Then pour it over a great pan, either of closely packed snow or ice. It will make sheets of brittle, melting candy that is most luscious and very easily prepared. Maple Balls. — Two cups maple sugar, 1 cup water ; cook without stirring, and when it becomes brittle dropped in water, add heaping tablespoon butter. Beat until creamy ; make into balls ; add halves of English walnuts on both sides. Lay on buttered paper to harden. Maple Chocolate Balls. — Half pound maple sugar, broken fine, and dissolved with one-fourth cupful cold water. When perfectly CANDIES. 545 dissolved, let it boil hard five minutes. Break up quarter cake of chocolate and put in a bowl over boiling water to melt ; this can be done by removing the lid frotji the tea-kettle and setting the bowl in its place. Take the sugar from the fire, put in a cool place and beat until stiff enough to make into balls about the size of marbles. Place on buttered plates to harden and then drop one by one into the melted chocolate. Turn with a fork until completely covered and, place on buttered paper to harden. Butter Scotch. — One cup of sugar, 1 cup of molasses, half cup of butter; boil until it hardens when dropped in cold water; then pour in a greased pan. Some put peanuts in the pan before turning in the candy. Meringue Kisses. — Beat the whites of four eggs until quite stiff, add pinch of salt, teaspoonful of flavoring, 1 cup of fine granulated sugar ; beat with a fork until very stiff Drop on buttered paper and bake three-quarters of an hour in a very slow oven. Popcorn Candy. — Make a common molasses candy. Have corn nicely popped ; grind it fine in a coffee-mill, and when the candy is ready to remove from the fire, stir in as much of the ground corn as -possible, and pour the whole into tin trays or dripping-pans (well buttered), marking squares when partly cool. This is a. very delicious, tender candy. Sugared Popcorn. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar, 3 table- spoonfuls of water and 1 tahlespoonful of butter into a deep kettle, and boil until it will candy, when a little is dropped into cold water. Remove the kettle from the fire, and throw in immediately a little more than 3 quarts of nicely popped corn, stirring briskly all the time. When the syrup is well mixed with the corn, each kernel will be found separate from the rest and crystallized with sugar. Popcorn Balls. — Put 1 cupful of granulated sugar in a saucepan, and wet it with half a cupful of cider (or vinegar and water mixed). When the sugar is dissolved, add half a cupful of water and allow it to boil without stirring until it will hair when dropped from a spoon. Have ready in a large pan or chopping bowl 11 or 12 double handfuls of well-popped corn. By double handfuls is meant all one can pos- sibly hold between both hands. Pour the syrup over the corn, stir- ring fast until the mass is well mixed. Then flour the hands and make into balls. This quantity makes 14 good-sized balls. A little COOK— SS 646 CANDIES. red sugar can be added to the syrup if more fajicy looking balls are desired. The balls can also be made of molasses, or half-and-half molasses and sugar. When possible, it is best to get corn that is more than a year old, as it pops much better. Cough Candy. — An excellent cough candy is made of slippery elm, flaxseed and sugar. Soak ^ gill of whole flaxseed in half a pint of boiling water. In another dish put a cupful of broken bits of slip- pery elm and cover this also with boiling water. Let these stand for 2 hours. Then strain them both through a muslin cloth into a sauce- pan containing 1}4 pounds of granulated sugar. Extract all the liquor you can, stir the sugar until it is melted, and then boil it until it turns to candy. Pour it out at once, when it reaches this point, on to greased papers. This is the old-fashioned rule. The candy is more palatable if the juice of 2 lemons is added to it after it has cooked for 10 minutes. Hoarhound Candy. — Boil 2 ounces of dried hoarhcund, which can be procured at the druggist's, in a pint and a half of water until its flavor is extracted, that is, for about 30 minutes. Strain until per- fectly clear. Add to it Sj4 pounds of brown sugar, and boil over a quick fire until the syrup will harden when a little of it is dropped in cold water. Pour into a buttered tin, and cut in squares when it is partly cooled. ' « Date Candy. — ^Take 4 cupfuls of white sugar, 1 scant cupful of cold water, butter size of an egg. Let boil slowly until ready to candy, not too hard. Cut dates, and remove the seeds. Close them again, lay on a well-buttered platter in rows 1 inch apart each way, pour the boiled candy over, and wKile cooling cut in squares so that a date will be in each square. Fruit or Wut Candies. — Dates, figs, raisins or cherries dried in sugar and taken in small lumps may be prepared according to the rule given above for Date Candy. Nut-meats of various kinds may be also used in the same manner, substituting any of these for the dates given above. A variation in the candy may be made by sub- stituting vinegar or lemon juice for the water used in the before- mentioned recipe. Tutti-Frattl Cream Candy. — ^Three cupfuls of white sugar, half a cupful of water, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil 10 minutes, then add 1 cupful grated fresh cocoanut or the desiccated. Boil 10 minutes longer, ccmeve from fire and stir in 1 pound of fresh-chopped figs or nut' CANDIES. 847 meats, half-and-half with the figs. Drop by spoonfuls on buttered paper or in fancy moulds, or pour in shallow pans and cut in squares while cooling. Raisins may be mixed with the figs. Figr Bock. — Boil 1 cupful of sugar and three-quarters of a cupful of water together, until the mixture turns to an amber color; add a little cream of tartar before taking it from the fire. Have the figs ready cut up on a dish, and pour the mixture over them. When nearly cold cut into square blocks. Cream Figs. — Beat the white of an egg, stir in powdered sugar until as stiff as. possible, and yet admit of dipping the figs. Dip in each fig one or more tiihes until entirely covered. Place on a heater to dry. * Fig Paste. — ^A dainty, inexpensive candy is made thus: Chop into bits and boil a pound of figs. When soft, strain and press through a sieve. Return to the water in which they were boiled, and which should be reduced to 1 cupful. Stir in 3 pounds of granulated sugar and cook down slowly until a thick paste is formed. Pour in pans lined with paper. Let cook. Take out on the paper and cut into sections. Dust with powdered sugar. Rose Candy. — One pound of granulated sugar, 1 teacup of cream, mix it together, boil 15 minutes, fast stirring all the time; try it by dropping some in a cup of cold water ; if right it will not melt, but feel gummy; beat the white of an. egg to a froth and stir the candy into it, divide it, color one part with 4 drops of cochineal, flavor with half teaspoon of vanilla, the other with half teaspoon of lemon; butter a dish, then pour first one and let it spread, then the other on top; when partly cool score it across with a knife. Candy Fggs for Easter. — Get tin moulds in egg shape, or use small china egg cups. Melt half a pound of chocolate and fill the moulds with the liquid, a teaspoonful at a time. Wait a moment, and then pour out what will flow. The chocolate which adheres to the mold, Will, after cooling, form the egg, and may be detached by tap- ping the mould lightly. Forming the perfect egg is equally easy. This is done by rubbing the edge of one-half to and fro over some warm surface, and then pressing it against the edges of the cold egg. The egg can be made solid instead of hollow ; but this, of course, requires a much larger quantity of chocolate, or it can be filled with the cream candy used for chocolate creams, finely chopped English 548 CANDIES. walnuts, or anything of the sort. Th«,eggrs can also be prepared without moulds by shaping the cream-candy filling with the hands into little eggs, and then dipping them by means of a small wooden skewer into the melted chocolate, which, when it cools, forms a covering. [In any of the recipes for cocoanut candy, where it is necessary to use the desiccated cocoanut, it must be soaked over night in as much milk as it will absorb, about one-half cupful of milk to one-half pound of cocoanut.] v Cocoanut Candy. — ^Take the white meat of cocoanuts, grate coarse until you have one-half pound ; dissolve one-half pound ol refined sugar in 2 tablespoonfuls of water ; put it over the fire, and as soon as it boils stir the cocoanut in. Stir until it is boiled to a flake ; pour into a buttered pan or marble slab ; then cut in forms to suit, when it is nearly cold. Cocoanut Taflfy. — One cup of desiccated cocoanut, and pour ii enough sweet milk to cover the cocoanut ; let soak while other ingre- dients are cooking ; 1 cup of molasses, 1 cup of sugar, butter the size of an egg, and one tablespoon of vinegar; boil about 15 minutes, then put in the cocoanut and milk; Watch carefully after putting in cocoanut, as it will scorch very quickly if you do not stir it. Cook until brittle when dropped iq wateir. Pour in a buttered tin and set away to cool. Orange and Cocoanut Candy. — ^To 2 cupfuls. of granulated sugar add the grated rind and half the juice of a small orange, together with enough cold water to thoroughly moisten the sugar. When it comes to a boil, add half a cupful of desiccated or, better, freshly-grated cocoanut. Let it boil, without stirring, until it stiffens in cold water, so that you can take it up in a very soft ball. Take from the fire and set saucepan and all in a cold place until the syruj) is nearly cool, then stir vigorously until it becomes thick and white, and pour quickly on a buttered plate. Cut in squares. Hickory-nut Candy (Molasses). — One pint of molasses, one- half cupful of granulated" sugar. Let boil 15 minutes; then add piece of butter the size of hickory nut. As soon as it crisps when dropped into cold water, add one-half teaspponful of soda made very fine. Stir quickly ; then add one pint hickory-nut meats. Four on buttered tins to harden. CANDIES. 549 Hlckory-uut Candy (Susrar).-^One cup of hickory-nut meats, two cups of sugar and half a cup of water. Boil the sugar and water without stirring until thick enough to spin to a thread, flavor with vanilla, set in cold water and stir quickly until white ; then stir in the nuts. Peanut Candy (Sugar). — Two Cupfuls of granulated sugar, one- half a cupful water. When it comes to a boil, add one-half tea.- spoonful cream of tartar, dissolve in a tablespoonful of water. Cook ) until when dropped in cold water it is brittle. Then add a piece of butter the size of an English walnut; cook a minute longer. Pour over a quart of shelled peanuts already spread in a buttered tin, and set away to cool. Sometimes it is nice to crush the peanuts with a rolling-pin after their skins have been removed. This breaks with a snap. Peanut Candy (Molasses). — One cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter, 1 cup of peanuts (shelled), boil 10 minutesj add peanuts just before you take it from the fire. Put in buttered pan, and when cool cut in squares. » Salted Peanuts. — Shell the peanuts, and blanch by peuring hot water over them, so that the skin will slip off easily. When dry, stir them well in melted butter — 1 tablespoonful of butter is enough for a cupful of peanuts. Let them dry again, and sprinkle thoroughly with salt all over. Put in a flat baking tin and let them bake until a delicious brown. Do not have the oven too hot. You need only stir them 2 or 3 times. It will probably take about 10 or 15 minutes to brown them nicely. Salted peanuts are a cheap and appetizing sub- stitute for the almond. Salted Almonds. — To salt a cupful of shelled almonds, pour boiling water over them, and when they have rested a moment drain it off and rub the skin off each almond with the thumb and finger. Spread the almond 6n a pan fqr about 5 minutes in the oven to dry. Put a tablespoonful of pure olive oil or melted butter over them, and toss until they are thoroughly coated; sprinkle a heaping table- spoonful of salt over them and toss the almonds again in this. Let them then rest in a cup for an hour. At the end of this time spread them on a pan in a rather quick oven and let them remain for 5 or 10 minutes or until they are turned an even golden brown. Stir them occasionally while browning." They must be crisp and very delicately 550 CANDIES. colored. Put them on the table at^e beginning of the dinner, with the olives and pickles, and in any low, ornamental dish. A change is to brown the almonds delicately in the oven, then cool, and instead of butter, pu.t the unbeaten white of an egg in a. large dish and stir the almonds until they are thoroughly coated. Then spread upon plates and .sprinkle with salt. Return them to the oven. Stir frequently. Marsb-Mallow Candy.-^The foundation of candies made with gum arable, that is, the plain paste, is what is usually known as marsh-mallows. They are easy to make, Tiut yery tedious, as they require beating an hour or more. Use to make them the very best white gum arabic, powdered, and double its weight of water, with three times its weight of sugar. The sugar is. the fine powdered. Toasted Marsli-MallowSi — Hold, on a lohg iron skewer, a marsh- mallow above a bed of glowing coals, turning it over and over, until the paste grows golden brown, softens, and the crust, breaking apart, shows the soft white centre. Eat at once. Old iStyle Cream Candies. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gum arabic in half a pint of waterj'^nd, strain it. Add one pint bf sWeet new milk or cream. Pour this over 3^ pounds of granulated sugar, and stir over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Boil 8 minutes, dip a -small skimmer in the syrup, take it out and blow through it. If the candy hangs in threads from the holes, it is done. Flavor with peppermint, vanilla, or any desired flavoring. Pour it out on an oiled dish to cool. As soon as it cJln be handled, oil or butter your hands, and pull it as you would molasses candy until it is Very whiter Braid it while soft, or leave it in long, thick strips. If you wish coeoanut, add it while the candy is soft, and work it in in the pulling. This candy must be kept in self-sealing jars or it will get very hard. Candled Violets.— One-half pint water, one-half pound granu- lated sugar, put in a bright tin pan over the fire, stir until the sugar is melted, cook until the syrup spins a thread, remove from fire and set in a pan of' cold water. When partly cool, beat rapidly until partly crystallized. Have a quantity of double sweet violets (white preferred), cut off stems, drop in a few at a time, stir gently. Lift with wire tongs on to oiled paper, and leave to harden. CANDIES. 661 French Oandies. The foundation of all French bon-bons is the French cream or fondant. This is made in the cooked, and the uncooked form. Frencli Cream or Fondant (Cooked). — This French cream foutr- dation is made of 2 pounds of sugar and a cup of water, boiled in a- bright saucepan ; do not stir until a little drop rolled between the fingers forms a soft, creamy ball. When this stage is reached, beat* the syrup thoroughly until it is cool enough to be moulded with the hands. Then work it as you would dough on a stone platter, or marble board. This fondant will keep for a long time if it is kept in a cool place. It can be melted out at any time by setting it in a cup of boiling water over the stove, and made into candies. Some of it may be volored pink with a little cochineal, and wrapped around blanched French almonds, or stoned French prunes. Some of it may be rolled into creamy little balls about the size of marblesj_and dipped into a melted cake of sweet chocolate, whei^ it becomes a chocolate cream. Some of it may be colored pale green with a little spinach green, and filled with blanched almonds or pistachio nuts. Pistachio nuts are not easy to obtain, but they may always be purchased at some of the leading confectioners. They generally cost one dollar a pound. Cocoanut Balls. — Cocoanut balls are formed by kneading shred- ded cocoanut into a portion of the fondant ; make into balls, and when cool brush with the white of an egg, and roll into some grated cocoanut. Cbocolate Squares. — Chocolate squares are made by mixing with some of the fondant enough melted chocolate to give it a rich brown color. If too soft, add pulverized sugar until it can be handled, and form into squares. Chocolate Creams. — Nip off pieces of the fondant the size of robins' eggs, form into cones and put in a cool place to harden. Melt a cake of sweetened chocolate, and proceed according to rule for chocolate creams before given. Date Candy. — Remove the seeds from some dates, and insert a small portion of the fondant for date candy. Walnut Creams. — ^Walnut creams are especially nice made with the fondant. Select perfect walnut kernels. Cover them with cream, 552 CANDIES. so that they are completely concealed in the little white ball. Wrap them in fanciful little colored papers. Chocolate, Maple and Peppermint Patties. — ^To make chocolate patties, melt some of the softer fondant in a cup, and add some finely- cut chocolate, bitter or confectioners' ; if too thick to drop, add a few drops of water. These can be flavored if desired, and usually will be found harder than the peppermint or wintergreen patties. Chocolate peppermints are made in the same manner as peppelrmint patties, as described above; when hard, each one is dipped in confectioners' chocolate which has been melted over steam. Maple patties are made by cutting up 2 cupfuls of maple sugar, adding 1 cupful of cold water, and just a speck of cream of tartar dissolved in water, and cooking like plain fondant. When cold, melt and drop like the other patties. Frencli Cream, or Fondant Uncooked. — ^This cream is the foun- dation of many candies. It is made in the proportion of 1 pound of confectioners' sugar to the white of 1 egg, and as much cold water. The egg and water are beaten to a froth, and then creamed with sugar. Then divide the cream into as many sections as you wish to have colors and flavors. The tiniest drop of cochineal will tint a beautiful pink, and flavor this with either rose or vanilla. Flavor some of the plain white with vanilla, and some with lemon. It is most satisfactory to have by far the largest portion of the cream fla- vored with vanilla. Then with the tips of the fingers form both the pink and white into small balls. If the cream is too 50ft, stiffen with more sugar. Cream Walnuts. — On some fondants place an English walnut meat on each side ; on others, a half of a date, and roll almonds inside some of the others. Then when you have as many cream walnuts, dates and almonds as you wish, use the remainder for the chocolate drops. Chocolate Drops. — For the coating get the rough, sweetened chocolate, which confectioners sell by the bulk. This may be melted in the chafing-dish/by being broken into small lumps and stirred until ' it is smooth ahd glossy. Then dip the balls in the mixture until covered, and drop on sheets of waxed paper. Nut Cream. — With a portion of the plain cream — I am presuming that you are making the candies on a large scale — and the broken Vts of all the kinds of nuts, mould a loaf, which is to be cut in slices CANDIES. 658 when thoroughly cold ; or cut in small squares and roll in waxed paper if it is to be kept. ^ Plum Pudding Candy. — Plum pudding candy is a collection of all available fruits and nuts, held together by a fondant of white of egg mixed with powdered sugar. Use figs, candied cherries, citron, pineapple, raisins, with a light blending of spices, and a few almonds blanched and chopped, or other variety of nuts. Mix the materials thoroughly, and pack in a box or tin lined with paraffin paper, leav- ing the mixture to ripen for a few hours. It may then be cut in small cub'es with a sharp knife, and each cube wrapped in a piece of paper, as caramels are prepared, or cut in slices. , Orange Creams. — Instead of using water with the white of egg, take a little of the latter, as much orange juice, and then the sugar to make a cream stiff enough to handle. This cream cannot be used for any other candy, but may be combined with candied orange ; but this orange cream formed into balls makes a delicious sweetmeat. Choose a sour orange for these. Lemon can be made in the same way, and may be' used with the orange. Coffee Creams. — By using a little of the white of egg with coffee you will have coffee creams. Whenever any other liquid is used omit the water. Nougat Candy. — Boil together a pound of sugar and half a cup of cold water until a little of it becomes brittle when dropped into cold water. Do not stir it after the sugar melts. Butter a shallow 'tin — a biscuit pan will answer — and cover the bottom closely with blanched almonds, the kernels of hickory, pecan and hazel nuts, thin strips of cocoanut, split and stoned dates and bits of figs. When the candy is done, add to it a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and pour it over your nuts and fruits. Mark it into strips or squares when it is cool. Nougat. ^1,1. White of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 1 teaspoonful vanillai Put in as much confectioner's sugar as will make stiff paste. Have ready the meats' of 2 pounds of mixed nuts (almonds, pecans, English walnuts, filberts and Brazil nuts) chopped ^ne ; mix in. Put some confectioner's sugar on the moulding-board, lay the paste, and mix well. Roll out with a roUing-pin. Cut in strips about half an inch wide and an inch and a half long, and put on plates to dry. Arrange the invalid's tray as daintily as ^ possible, and serve only the amount he can take^ for many times the sight of a large quantity of food will cause nausea and render it impossible to taste a particle. And before feeding bathe the hands and face with a cloth wrung out in hot water. _ Good nurses omit this sometimes, but the refreshment gained thereby often gives a relish to the food. Never leave food standing by a patient with the hope that an appetite may be aroused by its presence. Remove at once and serve again later on, in fresh dishes if necessary. Dishes should be heated if the food i» to be served hot, and kept cold if to be served cold. Custards should be set in ice or in pans of cold water. Serve food to the sick at regu- lar intervals, even if only a tablespoonful can be taken at once ; it 'ivill help keep his strength. In dropping medicine into a spoon, place the handle between the leaves of a closed book lying on the table, and then both hands may be used in dropping the mixture. For nausea scorch some rice, pour boiling water over it, arid drink as hot a s possible. Somie Donets for the Sick Boom. — Don't make unnecessary noise. Don't let doors squeak ; oil them. Don't whisper. Don't make noticeable and exaggerated efforts at being quiet. Don't speak of similar cases with fatal terminations. Don't admit tearful visitors. Don't keep the room too hot. Don't forget frequent ventilation. Don't raise a duSt. Don't forget to bathe the patient's face and hands frequently and wash the teeth and mouth. Don't give stimulants unless ordered by the physician. Don't wake patient from a sound sleep to administer medicine. Don't ask the patient " how he feels" every few moments. Don't taste the patient's food with his spoon. Don't masticate loudly and cheerfully yourself while the patient is dieting. Don't prepare food in the sick room. Don't ask the patient what he wants to eat. Don't fail to have plenty of fresh, clesui towels. Don't let cold food get hot, or hot food get cold. Don't let food stand by the bed. Don't bring too much food at a time. Pon't wet the bedclothing and dress in feeding the patient. Don't 161 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 555 make him drink too fast. Don't leave bureau drawers opea and shades crooked. Don't yawn frequently and unreservedly. Don't jar the bed. Don't rock vigorously and continuously) Don't intro- duce mournful and suggestive subjects. In a word, don't forget that a sick person, if conscious at all, is apt to have painfully acute per- ceptions and sensibilities, on which trifles jar in a superlative degree. When a patient cannot be raised from the bed without risk of exhaus- tion, a medicine tube or crockery feeder should be used, but the same appliance, or even one of the same appearance, should not be used for administering both food and medicine. To Keep Cracked Ice. — Take an ordinary porcelain pudding dish. Over., the top tie a large square of clean, old white flannel. Inside the dish let the flannel bag down so as, by all but an inch, to touch the porcelain bottom. Set as much ice as will be needed for a time into this flannel bag, and cover it by throwing back the long points hanging outside the dish. Thus suspended and covered, the ice melts very slowly, even in a warm room. When a feverish patient demands a bit every few_moments, a neat little home-made device for cracking silently little lumps of ice, as they are required, is made from a large cork. Into one end insert the~head of a No. 8 needle. By merely pressing the cor^ down with a thimbled finger, the needle quickly splits the ice apart. It is well to cut a tiny opening in the bottom of the flannel bag, that it may drain more quickly. Crushed ice can be prepared in a couple of minutes by chopping off a piece from the large cake with an ice-pick ; put the piece that is to be crushed in a clean coarse ploth ; gather the corners of the cloth, and bang it two or three times against any unbreakable surface, as a stone hearth, iron sink, etc. Rinse the ice first, and use a clean cloth, and the crushed ice will be perfectly clean. . Nourishing Drinks. When the temperature reaches 101 degrees or over, the sick per- son should be fed liquids only, because the power of the stomach to digest food is impaired, and it needs assistance. Besides this, when there is loss of appetite, the sufferer will relish food in liquid form after he turns in disgust from delicactM in solid. There are a great variety of nutritive foods, easily ptepartd, to tempt the palate ; amoag; vhich are arrowroot, cornstarch, clam juice, jellies, such as ealf *s 556 Cqt)KING FOR INVALIDS. foot jelly, wine or lemon jelly, meat jelly, wine whey. Mutton broth is healing ; and then there is barley gruel, rice gruel, flour gruel, oat- meal gruel, Indian meal gruel, and sago gruel. Apple Water. — Pare and slice a fine, juicy apple. Pour 1 large cupful of boiling water over it. Cover and let stand until cold. Or, roast 2 nice tart apples ; do not burn. Cut them up, and pour over them 1 pint of boiling water. Let cool. Either of these will be found a refreshing drink. They may be sweetened slightly, if liked, and^ a couple of cloves ( may be added. This is an excellent drink for a feverish cold. Tamarind Water.^Over 1 glass tumbler of tamarinds, pour 1 pint of cold water. Let stand 1 hour before using, then strain. Bice Water. — Rice water is a pleasant drink for children and in- valids. Boil a teacupful of rice in 3 pints of water. Allow it to sim- mer gently for three-quarters of an hour, when strain it and sweeten a little, if liked. At times when choleraic disorders are prevalent, a stick of cinnamon boiled in it makes a comforting beverage. Raisins boiled in it, give it a pleasant flavor; so also does the thin yellow rind of a lemon. Barley Water.-^A favorite, as well as nourishing drink for in- valids, is barley water. To prepare it, place a quart of water in a saucepan over the fire. Wash well 2 ounces of pearl barley,-and throw into the water. Bring it to boiling point, then add lemon and., sugar to suit the taste. Draw the pan to the back of the fire, and simmer gently 2 hours. Strain, and cover until cold. It should be reduced about one-half when done. Crust Coffee. — Brown crusts of wheat bread or Graham biscuits in the oven until thoroughly toasted through, but not burned. Break in pieces, and pour boiling, water over them. Let steep, and serve as ordinary coffee, with cream and sugar. Very wholesome for dys- peptics. Toast Water. — Make as above for Crust CoffeCj but not so strong, and give it cold, without milk or sugar, as a drink. Cornmeal Coffee. — Put 1 pint of coarse cornmeal into a bowl, and pour over it a pint of boiling water ; stir till well mixed ; add a cupful of cold water, a tablespoonful of molasses, a pinch of salt, and 1 pint of coarse wheat or oatmeal. Stir well together ; dust a drip- ping-pan with comaKal, and pour in the batter. Bake until browned. COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 557 in a hot oven. When ready to make the coffee, split the cake, put it in the oven to brown, but do not scorch ; break it into pieces, and put into a large earthenware pitcher. Pour 1 quart of boiling water over it. Simmer for an hour or longer. Serve with sugar and cream. It can be made of the cornmeal alone. It is most excellent for dyspep- tics, who cannot use coffee without injury. litnaeed Tea. — Place in a jug 1 ounce of bruised linseed, 2 drachms bruised licorice-root, half ounce white sugar and 2, table- spoonfuls of lemon juice, and pour over them one pint of boiling water. Cover tightly, and digest for three or four hours near a fire. Strain through linen before using. This makes a mucilaginous liquid, possessing demulcent properties, and of special value in bronchial affections. ' Oatmeal Sbrub., — Put 4 ounces of fine, fresh oatmeal into a jar, add 6 ounces of white sugar and the juice of a lemon. Moisten with lukewarm water enough to mix ; then pour over 1 gallon of boiling water, stirring thoroughly. Let settle; use cold. This is a very strengthening and refreshing drink, especially for invalids. The flavoring may be varied to suit the taste. It is often used without either sugar or flavoring. Barley Water, -with White of 'Egg^ — ^Take a tablespoonful of coarse barley, and wash well with cold water, rejecting the washings. Then boil for an hour or more with a pint and a half of clean water, in a covered vessel or saucepan. Add a pinch of salt, enough sugar to render palatable, and strain. To 4 or 6 ounces of barley water thus prepared add the white of 1 egg. The value of this preparation in gastro-intestinal inflammation and irritation is not easily over- estimated. In the entero-colitis of very young infants its exclusive administration for thirty-six or forty-eight hours will often relieve when all other measures have failed. Canned Grape-juice. — Cook the grapes 1 hour, or until soft. Strain through a fine strainer and cook the juice once more, adding 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of juice. Boil well and put in glass' jars. Tea and MiUc. — ^An English physician has a formula for tea and milk, designed for persons with weak digestion who like the slight stimulant of tea, but are Unable to use it as ordinarily prepared. The milk is put info a saucepan cold, with the requisite amount df tea in 658 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. an infuser or loosely tied in a muslin bag. The milk is then allowed to come slowly to the boil, and the moment the boiling point is reached the vessel must be taken from the fire and its contents quickly strained into a carefully-heated teapot. This concoction is said to be pleasant to drink and unwholesome to no one. Hot Milk. — Milk heated just below the boiling point and sipped slowly as hot as possible, is nourishing and stimulating as well, and will give good results, if substituted, in many cases, for wines, etc. Milk and lime Water. — In cases where much nourishment must be administered in the form of milk and lime water, it is well to know the proportions are always an ounce of lime water to an ounce of milk mixed, to be used at the time the patient requires it. Milk Punch. — Milk Punch is useful where there is great weak- ness and little nourishment can be taken. Heat about one-half cup of milk and water, sweeten to taste and add 2 teaspoonfuls good whiskey. Strengthening Chocolate. — ^Take 1 pint of the best chocolate,^-! pound of rice flour, onerfourth pound arrowroot, one-half pound sifted loaf sugar. Thoroughly mix and rub together. A dessert- spoonful of this compound should be slightly moistened with milk and then stirred into a pint of boiling milk. Mulled Wine. — Put into one-half cup cold water 3 cloves, one inch cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg. Cover, set in a pan of water and cook 10 minutes, not allowing it to boil. Add one-half cup claret wine, cook 10 minutes longer, strain and serve at once. ■Sweeten or not as taste dictates. Yoii may vary it and make it more nutritious by adding an egg, the white and yolk beaten separately, with half a tablespoonful of sugar; pour into the wine and serve at once. This is a drink that our grandmothers gave for a cold, and it is equally efficacious to-day. For preparing it never use a tin cup, as the acid of the wine would render the beverage unwholesome. Rennet Whey. — One pint of scalding milk, not boiling ; 1 table- spoonful prepared rennet, or piece of rennet skin that has been soaked in water. Sweeten to taste and strain. It will be ready for use when cool. Wine Whey. — One quart of new milk, heat to boiling point, take one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 2 dessertspoonfuls of sherry wine, and put into the milk, let it simmer a few minutes, when the COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 659 curds are formed, strain off It is a cooling and slightly laxative drink; it as used when the patient can keep nothing oh the stomach. Sweeten to taste with white sugar. Buttermilk "Whey. — Boil the required quantity of fresh butter- milk. Season with a pinch of salt, a little loaf sugar, and nutmeg if liked. Pour the whey off carefully. Mulled Buttermilk, or Buttermilk Pop. — Rub a scant table- spoonful of butter into teacup of flour, wet it up to a thin paste with cold buttermilk, and pour it into 2 quarts of boiling fresh buttermilk; salt to the taste. Egg-TSog. — Beat the yolk of an egg in a tumbler with 2 tea- spoonfuls of brandy, and the same of sugar, level. Beat the white of the egg to a stiff froth, mix; thoroughly with the yolk, and fill the glass with milk. Some patients cannot take egg and must have brandy and milk alone. Others take brandy and egg without milk, while the larger number take egg and milk alone. Some physicians advise using the yolk of the egg only. Eggr Wine. — Beat up a fresh egg until smooth and thick ; add a teaspoonful of powdered loaf sugar ; stir in a glass of best port wine. This, when permitted, is very strengthening, or a tablespoon- ful of brandy or whiskey; cracked ice in the glass is an imprqvement. Bgrgr mik. — ^Beat a fresh egg until very light. Stir into a glass of new milk. -Sweeten to taste and flavor with either nutmeg or lemon. Very strengthening. A pleasant change in the preparation of egg milk is to break the egg into a pint basin, and add about a tablespoonful of water ; take away the white speck, and then beat evenly with a small whisk or fork until it becomes light ; then add very gradually a gill of milk, heated to boiling point, beating all the time and continue until the whole is a fine foam. A little sugar and sherry or brandy may be added if liked. This way will be found to do away with a certain rawness of taste that is complained of so often. Sometimes it is a change to place this drink on ice until cold. Brandy Cocoa. — Scald 1 cup of milk ; mix 1 teaspoon of sugar with 1 tablespoon of boiling water and 1 teaspoon of cocoa ; add it to the milk ; cook over hot water 5 minutes; add one-half tablespoon of brandy and serve. A plain cocoa for the sick is to be made with boiling water, not milk. When serving add cream and sugar to the taste, or sugar only. 560 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Egff Gofliaa. — The invalid who is tired of taking egg tonic mixed with sherry, and who dislikes the taste ol^a raw egg, may enjoy the egg disguised in a cup of cofifee. Prepare the coiifee to the tast? with cream and sugar, keeping it very hot until ready for the egg, which must be beaten thoroughly in another cup and the prepared coffee added by degi'ees. Drink it hot, and it will be found not only pala- table, but strengthening. Temperance lEgg-TSog. — Take a tall lemonade glass and BU it half-full of cracked ice. Break into it 2 fresh eggs, and pour in half a pint of milk, with just enough sugar to sweeten to the taste. Then shake it well and strain into another ice-cold glass. Top it off with a dash of nutmeg. Cooling and delicious. Mulled Jelly. — One tablespoonful of currant jelly beaten with the white of an egg, and a little loaf sugar; pour oyer this one pint of boiling water, and break into it a slice of dry toast. This is very palatable. Lemonade. — See " Table Drinks and Beverages "^ for various ways of preparing it. For an invalid it should be made of the juice only. Squeeze about a tablespoonful of juice into a tumbler, add sugar to taste and fill tumbler with fresh water. Hot Ijemonade.— This is made same as cold lemonade, save that boiling water is used. This is very useful in case of sudden colds. Flaxseed Lemonade. — Flaxseed lemonade for coughs, colds and hoarseness is one of the old-fashioned woman's recipes. To make it, put two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and .three tablespobnfuls of whole . flaxseed into a pint of hot water. Steep an hour, strain, add the juice of one lemon, and set on ice until cold. If preferred, it may be drunk hot. Milk Lemonade. — Sugar, Ij^ pounds, dissolved in a quart of boiling water, together with half a pint of lemon juice and^l>^ pints of milk. This makes a cooling, agreeable, nourishing beverage. Broths. Beef Juice. — Slice juicy lean beef from the round, an inch thick, broil it quickly over a very hot fire, but without burning, until it is brown on both sides, lay it in a hot soup plate, cut it through in all parts with a very sharp knife, and set another hot plate on it, with the bottom against the meat ; then grasp both pfates firmly and press COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 661 them together, squeezing the juice from the meat ;, let it run into another dish. This is the only perfect form of beef tea. Season to taste, or take in its natural state. A quick way to express the juice is to cut the hot meat in small pieces and squeeze with a lemon squeezer, or small juice extractor. The juice should be caught in a hot cup. It can be given to the youngest infant, as well as to adults. It is the best Jbod preparation to administer during the severity of an attack of any hot-weather disease. Give in teaspoonful to tablespoonful quantities at short intervals, say from 15 minutes to 2 hours, depend- ing upon the iirgency of the case. It may be given hot, or, if there - is much nausea, it may be poured-over a little shaved ice and then administered. Extract of beef, if pure, contains nothing but the flavoring matter of the meat from which it is prepared. It is, there- fore, not a food at all, but a stimulant, and should be, classed with tea and coffee. It^should never be given to a sick person unless specially prescribed by a competent physician. Its strong meaty taste is deceptive, and a person depending upon it alpne for food would die of starvation. Beef Tea. — One pound of lean beef (not one scrap of fat must be admitted) cut in small bits and put in a wide-mouthed bottle with- out water ; cork closely, set in a kettle of cold water, bring to a boil and keep boiling for 3 or 4 hours, until the meat in the bottle is like white rags. Press out the juice and season with a little salt. This troublesome way of making beef tea used to be considered the only method, but either of the above given are preferable. Moulded Beef Tea. — Put a pound of lean beef, cut fine, into a por- celain-lined stew-pan, with a pint of cold water. Let it stand half an hour, and then put it on the stove, where it will heat gradually. While boiling hot skim carefully, and put it where it will simmer gently for half an hour. When this is cooking, put a third of a box of gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Salt the broth to taste, and strain, boiling hot, over the gelatine. Stir till dissolved. Strain into cups or moulds. Set away to cool on ice. This will be foimd a very desirable change to the invalid. The other beef teas can be moulded in the same manner, adding gelatine in, quantities according to the amount of tea. Frozen Beef Tea. — Put cold beef tea in a small pail, set in a wooden bucket, and surround ft with salt and crushed ice. Let stand COOK— SS 662 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 10 minutes, then take off the cover aoid scrape the congealed beef tea from the sides. Beat well and then put back the cover. Do this two or three times, and the tea will be frozen smooth. This is excellent for invalids who must have all their food cold. Quick Beef Tea. — A quick method of preparing a nourishing beef tea is as follows : Take any desired quantity of steak from the top part of the round, as this has less fat and more juice than any other part of the ox ; remove every morsel of fat, and divide the meat into small pieces, cutting across the grain ; put the meat in a dry saucepan and allow it to sweat for 5 minutes over a slow fire, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. This is how all beef essences are prepared. After sweating for 5 minutes you will find the meat white in color and surrounded by a very rich, nourishing gravy, which, in cases of great exhaustion, may be given in-this form. When using beef tea for invalids, a teaspoonful of the best whiskey adds greatly to its flavor and serves as a stimulant for the patient. This is especially good for grip during the convalescent stage. To warm up beef tea, put in a cup, and set the cup. in boiling water. The use of meat juice Meat Juice Extractor. for medicinal purposes is a grow- ing one7 and is recommended for the aged, delicate infants and inva- lids, in all cases where complete nourishment is required in a concen- trated form. Clam Broth. — Simmer chopped clams in their own broth with an equal quantity of water, the broth strained through fine muslin, and seasoned with pepper. Hot milk may be added, and the whole served with toasted crackers. dam Frappi. — Wash thoroughly 20 clams, and put them in a stew-pan with one-half cup cold water ; cover closely and steam-until the shells open. Strain the liquid, cool, and freeze it to a mush. Serve in glasses. A small amount may be frozen easily in a baking- powder can by setting it in a tin pail and packing with ice and salt in COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 563 equal proportions. The mixture will freeze in about half an hour, and should be stirred once or twice during that time. This clam- juice is also very often diluted and served hot, and in some cases of gastric inflammation will be retained by the stomach when almost everything else is rejected. Veal Broth. — Two pounds of knuckle of veal cracked into pieces and put over the fire with 2 quarts of cold water. Cover and cook slowly until it is reduced to 1 quart. Strain and season with salt. Meanwhile soak 3 tablespoonfuls of pearl sago in a cup of cold water, lieat by setting the dish in a pan of boiling water for half an hour, and stir occasionally. Put the strained broth in a double boiler and add the warmed sago to it, cook half an hour, and then stir into it 1 cup of cream heated to the boiling point, and the well-beaten yolks of 2 fresh eggs. Let all only come to a boil and remove from the fire at once. Serve as soon as possible. ^ Nutritioas Beef Broth. — ^AUow a pint of cold water to a pound of lean beef (round steak preferable) cut in dice. Stir until the water boils ; it must not boil Hgain, but simmer gentlyfor 5 or 10 minutes, until all the juice is drawn out ; then strain carefully into a bowl, and if thej;e is a particle of fat on top remove it with a piece of brown ~ unsized paper. By this method you may take off every star of fat without wasting a drop of the beef tea, as is done when using a ladle or spoon. In this way you may have strong beef tea in 20 minutes.' Mutton Broth. — This is ofben ordered for invalids. It should b* made as plainly as possible, and so as to secure the juice of the meat. Boil slowly about 2 pounds of lean mutton for two hours ; skim it very carefully, as it simmers, and do not put in much salt. Some veget£lbles may be added as a seasoning, and for some broths a littl? barley or rice. Cream Soup. — Sago, pearl tapioca, barley or rice may be used. Take any white stock that is rich and well seasoned. Pyt into a saucepan a half-pint of the stock and the same quantity of cream. When it comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoonful of flour thoroughly moistened with cold milk, and let it boil up once. Have the tapioca or whatever you wish to use in the soup cooked, and add it to the soup and serve. Barley requires 2 hours to cook, rice 1 hour ; s^o and pearl tapioca must be soaked in cold water half an hour and cooked the same length of time. 664 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Chicken Broth. — Boil a common-sized chicken in 2 quarts of water (the water must be cold' at first); cover and cook until the meat is ready to fall to pieces. Strain, let simmer, adding 4 or 5 table- spoonfuls of milk aad a little salt and pepper. A tablespoonful of well-soaked rice or pearl barley may be added also ; boil slowly one- half hour if this is done. Serve with dry toast. The meat of the chicken will make a very nice chicken salad for tlie family. Or, if the patient is sufficiently convalescent, make it into a Paulet a la creme for his use. Paulet a la Creme. — Chop the cooked chicken to a powder, rub through a wire sieve, mix with a little cream and 2 well-beaten eggs, and season with salt. Put in a mould, press, strain, and serve it hot or cold, cut in slices. . Gruels. Gruels are generally ordered when there is fever. And gruel properly made is nourishing and palatable, but if scorched or half raw and full of lumps it is most repulsive. Gruels are soothing reme- dies for bad colds. Indian-meal Gruel. — ^Take corn meal and sift it into a quart of slightly-salted boiling water, stirring until it is the consistency of cream. Let simmer one-half hour or longer. Put in a bit of butter if allowable ; add sugar and nutmeg if desired. A couple dozen raisins boiled in the gruel will improve the flavor. They need not be eaten. Another way is to serve the^ruel in the proportions of one- half cup of the gruel and one-half cup of rich milk, heated together. Caudle.-^Make a water gruel as above, or a Rice Caudle. Strain it and add a wineglassful of wine or brandy. Sweeten with loaf-sugar and grate in a little nutmeg. Bice CauOle. — Soak 2 tablespoonfuls of rice in cold water for an hour. Drain and simmer in a pint of sweet milk (the milk miist be cold to start with) until it is a pulp that can be rubbed through a . sieve. Then put pulp and milk in a saucepan, with a bruised clove, a bit of stick cinnamon, and loaf-sugar to taste. Simmer ten minutes longer. If too thin, add a little more milk. Serve wiUi very thin , slices of dry toast. Bic© Gruel.— Add 1 tablespoonful of rice to 3 cups of boiling water. When it has cooked for three-quarters of an hour, a cup of milk is added, with a teaspoonfiil of salt, and the mixture is boiled COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 565 for a few minutes longer. Strain the gruel through a puree sieve, pressing through all the rice that will go. Let the gruel boil up for 5 minutes after it is strained. Add sugar and nutmeg to the taste. Serve it with little slices of brown toast. Though this is a very pal- atable gruel, it is not so full of nourishment cis a barley gruel, but it is valuable to persons suffering from intestinal diseases^ who cannot take heavier food. Boiled Flour Gruel. — Tie a teacupful of flour closely in a cotton cloth. Boil 6 hours. When cool untie, and let it dry in a moderate oven. If the oAter part remains soft remove carefully. When wanted for use, grate 2 tablespoonfuls of it, and rub smooth with a little cold milk. Stir it into 1 pint of boiling milk, cook 5 minutes, season with salt and sugar to taste. Very good for children and infants in summer diseases ; also for older invalids. Oatmeal Gruel (Milk). — ^Pour 1 pint of boiling water on 2 table- spoonfuls of oatmeal, add one-half pint milk and 1 teaspoonful salt, simmer in a double boiler for one-half hour, add some raisins and grated nutmeg if permissible, strain, sweeten with loaf sugar if liked. Oatmeal Gruel (Water). — One cupful oatmeal, 1 quart of water, boil gently until it thickens, rub through a sieve with a spoon, and serve hot ; sweeten if liked, add a pinch of salt. If too thick, thin with milk, water or broth. auik Gruel. — One tablespoonful of Indian meal, Itablespoonful of wheat flour. Rub them smooth in a little cold milk or water. Pour into 1 quart of boiling milk, boil 10 minutes, season with butter and salt. Good for a cold. Chicken Oatmeal Gruel (a Convalescent's Food). — Boil a chicken till tender, remove the chicken, lay it one side for the well folks to eat, strain the stock. There should be about a pint. Add one-quarter cup of fine oatmeal and cook 1 hour. Strain again, add 1 pint of milk, add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with inch cubes of bread browned in the oven. Arrowroot Gruel. — Make same as Rice Gruel, taking 1 ounce to 1 pint of milk, together with 1 teaspoonful sugar and a pinch of salt. Cracker Gruel. — Roll until- fine 6 soda crackers. Put 1 pint of cold water into a saucepan, when boiling add the rolled cracker. Do not stir, but boil 1 minute. Add sugar and nutmeg to taste, then 2 tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Serve warm. 666 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Milk Porridge. — Mix 2 tablespooiifuls of flour with a half cupful of cold milk, place a cupful and a half of milk over the fire in a saucepan; stir in the flour and the milk, a saltspoonful of salt, and, if desired, sugar and nutmeg to suit the palate of the patient; stir liie porridge conistantly until it begins to boil, then let it boil for 1 min- ute, and serve it. Some palates will not endure the sweetening and flavoring, but a simple bit of butter, and some like a dozen of raisins boiled in the milk ; not to eat, but for the flavor. Cornstarch is nice to use in place of flour. Another variation is to make as above, remove from the fire, and stir in the stifily-beaten white of an egg. Baked Milk. — Put milk in an earthen jar, cover the opening with thick paper, and bake in a moderate oven until the milk is as thick as cream. This is often palatable to invalids who do not care for raw milk. Baisin Brotli. — Boil 1 pound of raisins slowly in plenty of water for an hour. Make a thickening of cornstarch, moistened with cold water and a small piece of butter. Grate in a quarter of a nutmeg, and season with a tablespoonful of brandy' or two of wine. Sweeten to the taste. Serve with a toasted cracker. This broth is both pala- table and nourishing. Bread Panada. — Six Boston crackers, scatter a little granulated sugar and a grain of salt over each cracker. Put them in a bowl and just cover with boiling water. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of wine. Coyer the dish and let it stand in a warm place until the crackers are soaked, but not broken. Serve in the bowl. Cut, or crumbed, stale bread may be used instead of crackers, or the bread may be toasted. ^ Crocker Soup. — Put a bit of butter, the size of a hickory-nut, ia a bowl, sprinkle in pepper and salt ehough to make it palatable ; break in crackers as for oyster soup, and turn on boiling water until the dish is filled. This is a substitute for oyster soup, and is a very nice dish. Use as much pepper as possible, if the disease is a sore throat. A person in perfect health will relish this dish. Solid PoodB. CalTM'-Foot Jelly. — Wash and clean the feet of a larg'e calf. Put them to boil in. 8 quarts of water. When the water is half boiled away, strain through a sieve and set it to cool. When perfectly co]d. COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 567 remove every particle of fat from the top ; take up the jelly, removing any sediment that may be at the bottom. Set it over the fire again, letting it dissolve slowly without stirring ; before it is hot add the whites of 6 eggs beaten stiff, the juice of 6 lemons, and 8 tablespoon- fuls of powdered sugar. Let it boil, skimming thoroughly until it is perfectly clear. Try a teaspoonful on a plate to cool. If not suf- ficiently firm, boil longer or add half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass dissolved in enough water to cover it. Put some of the yellow skins of the lemons in a jelly-bag and strain through. This gives the jelly a fine amber color. A sti&k of cinnamon may be put in at the same time with the lemon juice; remove before straining. Fasten the jelly-bag (it should be flannel ; wring/ it out of hot water before using, to enable the liquid to run more freely) near the fire and do not stir nor press. Calves'-foot jelly can be made by simply sweetening, leaving out the lemon-juice and cinnamon. When for invalids, the physician frequently orders a wineglass of pale brandy or a pint of Madeira, white sugar in equal weight with the juice; boil until it will jelly. When cold, pour in glasses and seal. Mutton Jelly. — Six shanks of mutton, 3 pints of water, pepper and salt to taste, one-half pound lean beef, a crust of bread toasted brown. Wash the shanks well, after soaking in water several hours, and place all ingredients in a saucepan with the water and simmer gently for five hours. Season with salt. Strain, and when cold skim off the fat. Warm as much as is wanted at a time ; or, serve cold. Meat Jelly. — Clear 1 quart of strong beef broth' with white of egg. See " Clarifying Soups." Season with salt and pepjSer to taste, adding lemon-juice, cinnamon or other spicesj if desired ; set away to harden in little cups. When ready to use, turn out on a pretty saucer, and serve with a saltine or a bit of toast. Chicken Jelly. — Chicken jelly may be used in a variety of ways. To make the jelly take a fowl weighing about 3 pounds^ Clean and remove the skin and fat. Cut it into pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with 2 generous quarts of water, a bay leaf, and some pieces of celery. Cover and heat slowly up to the boiling-point. Let it simmer for 4 hours, then season with salt and strain into glasses, and set away to cool. When cold, remove the fat. This jelly may be used cold or heated, and served like soup. Heat a glass of the jelly and add a gill of sherry or Madeira wine, 1 teaspoonful of dissolved B68' COOKING FOR INVALIDS. gelatine, some sugar and the juice of half a lemon. Pour the liquid jelly into small cups, and set away to harden. This makes a very nourishing wine jelly. Pieces of the white meat of the fowl may be cut fine and put into a jelly glass, and the liquid jelly poured over them. When cold, it is appetizing sliced and put between thin pieces of bread, buttered^ and with the crust taken off, or with slices of jellied chicken with toasted crackers. Chicken Jelly. — II. Boil 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cold chicken in sufficient water to make a cupful of the whole ; %icken lightly with cornstarch in melted butter, pour over a slice of nicely toasted bread and serve hot. Scraped Raw Beef. — Take a tender piece of beef; cut across the grain ; scrape with a spoon until all the pulp is removed ; make a fresh surface by cutting off the scraped part with a thin, sharp knife ; proceed in this way until all the meat is reduced to a pulp. If neces- sary, it may be eaten raw, spread very thin on slices of toast, or the pulp may be put in a hot frying-pan with a little buttef, and allowed to barely cook through, stirring and turning constantly. A weak stomach will often retain scraped beef when it refuses all other solid foods. Kaw Beef Sandwiches. — Between two thin slices of toast place a small piece of juicy, fresh, tender raw beef, scraped fine and seasoned highly with salt and pepper. Hot Beef Toast. — A slice of bread toasted to a delicate brown and moistened with the juice from a hot, rare beefsteak is a little va- riation from the regulation -toast that is appreciated by the invalid. Broiled Squahs, Quail, or Chicken. — Squabs or quails should be split down the baqk, wiped dry and broiled on both sides. Season lightly with salt, pepper and butter. The breast only of a spring chicken should be broiled. Season as above. Broiled Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads must be parboiled, then blanched in cold water and lemon juice. Broil until well browned. Salt and pepper. Creamed Sweetbreads. — No matter how you serve sweetbreads they must first be parboiled in clear water for 20 minutes. Then throw them into cold water and pick them into small pieces, rejecting the membrane. Put a tablespoonful of butter and 1 of flour in a sauce- pan and add half a pint of milk, and when boiling add the sweetbreads COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 569 and half a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and they are ready to serve. Sweetbreads are the pancreas of an animal and valuable for convalescents because they are a form of partially predi- gested food, and require but 1 hour in the stomach to complete the digestive process. GriUed Oysters. -r-Put about 6 unopened oysters on a gridiron ; as soon as they are partly open put into each a bit of fresh butter sprinkled with pepper ; when they are quite open, which will tak6 about 7 minutes, serve with them bread and butter and some slices of lemon. Oyster Soups. — See Shell Fish. Invalid's Mutton (jhop. — Cut the chop rather thin and cook it thoroughly over a clear coal fire. Remove the skin from it. Chopped Beefsteak for the Invalid. — ^A nutritious, stimulating food, more digestible than unchopped steak, and valuable in all sick- ness caused by mal-nutrition. Trim the fat froni a pound of round or sirloin steak, cut the meat in inch pieces, put it into a meat-chopper or mincing machine and chop it for 5 minutes ; then take from the top of the meat the fine pulp which rises during the operation of the chopping ; continue to chop and remove the pulp until only the fibre of the meat remains. Press the pulp into a round, flat cake, and broil it over a very hot fire for about 5 minutes on each side; season lightly with salt and cayenne pepper, and serve hot. Bacon for Invalids.— Slice the bacon very thin; almost thin enough to look through ; broil on a gentle fire, turning very often ; broil until the corners commence to curl ; then serve on dipped toast. Creamed Codfish.-pShred some^ codfish fine, put in cold water, let come slowly to a boil to freshen it. Boil a moment, turn off the water and add hot cream, seasoned lightly with pepper if allowable, or rich milk in which a small lump of butter has been dissolved. Split and toast a Boston cracker, or a half slice of baker's bread from which the crust has been removed, and turn the codfish over this. Egg on Toast. — A delicate way of preparing eggs is to poach 2 very lightly, put them on slices of crisp toast and pour over them a coffee cupful of hot cream. Or, dip a crisp slice of toast, either of white or Graham bread.-into boiling salted water. > Take out and but- ter lightly, and put the poached eggs upon them. Less rich than Iffith milk. See " Eggs " for other delicate methods of preparing eggs. 670 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. Whipped Egg on Toast. — Place 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water in a small saucepan on the stove. Break the egg in and stir briskly until the egg is set, but not at all hard. Serve on toast. This is no richer than the dropped egg. Egg in Milk. — Toast 2 thin slices of baker's bread, then butter, break 1 egg into a cup of milk and let the milk come to a scald, or till the white of the egg turns a milk white, add a pinch of salt, take the egg up carefully, so as not to break the yolk, and Isgr it on the toast, then poiir the rest over it; it is a good dish for convalescents. How to Eat a Baw Egg. — Put the yolk of an egg into a dish with a teaspoonful of white sugar and a teaspoonful of orange or lemon juice and beat lightly together with a fork. Put the whites on a plate and add a pinch of salt. Then with a broad-bladed knife beat tt to a stiff froth. Ncjw as lightly as possible mix all together in the dish. I Transfer it to a clean tumbler, which it will aearly fill if prop' erly made. Any fruit juice may be used in place of orange or lemon, or even brandy if the doctor has ordered it. Cream Toast for Invalids. — Heat some very thin cream to nearly the boiling point and salt well. Toast a slice of white or Graham bread a nice brown. Pour the cream over it and serve at once. Milk may be used instead of cream. No butter at first. Baked Potato. — Potatoes must be served baked, and as soon as they are done cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out the mealy centre into a hot bowl. Mash and add 2 tablespoonfuls of cream and a little salt. Beat the white of 1 e^ stiff, and mix it with the potato. The egg may be omitted. Onion Gruel. — This is excellent for a cpld. Slice down a few onions and boil them in a pint of. new milk, stir .them in a sprinkle of oatmeal and a very little salt ; boil till the onions are quite tender, then sup rapidly and go to bed. Onions slowly stewed in weak broth and eaten with a little pepper will be found to be an admirable article of diet for patients ,of studious and sedentary habits. ,^, Gluten Wafers. — ^To-1 gill of cream add seven-eighths cup of gluten and 1 saltspoon of salt. Roll out about as thick as a silver /dollar and bake. Sweet Dishes. Bice and Egg.— Wash thoroughly half a cup of rice and putit into a double boiler with just enough water to cover it. When the COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 671 rice is nearly done, if any water remains pour it off and add 1 cup of milk and a little salt. Let the rice cook slowly until done. Beat an egg tiioroughly, and the last thing before taking the rice from the fire stir the egg into it as lightly as possible, and serve hot with sugar and cream. Sago Jelly. — ^Wash 1 large tablespoonful of sago, soak one hour, boil it in half cupful of water ; with a pinch of salt, and a stick of cinnamon, until the grains grow clear ; rind of lemon may be substi- tuted for the cinnamon. Then add 1 pint of boiling milk, or milk and water, boil all together, sweeten and set away to cool. Orange Jelly. — Take half pint of orange juice, beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth and add the juice, with 1 teacupful of sugar, to a scant pint of hot water. Have previously soaked half package of gelatine in 1 teacupful of cold water, add this to the other ingre- dients. Set the dish containing the mixture over the fire in a pan of boiling water, and stir until it is thofoughly heated. Strain and fill in moulds, or keep the halves of the orange peel intact and fill the jelly in these. Set in a cool place to harden. Tapioca Jelly. — Soak the tapioca 6 hours, or over night, Sim- mer in a stew-pan until it becomes quite clear, then add the juice of a lemon or a glass of wine, with sugar to taste. Set in a cool place until ready to serve. Dyspeptic Custard. — This can be digested by weakened and dyspeptic stomachs : To half a pint of fresh milk heated lukewarm add 1 teaspoon-of essence of pepsin ; stir just enough to mix ; let it stand till cold, serve plain or with cream and sugar and nutmeg ; wines or cordials can be added as you like. Bice Custard. — Boil in a double boiler 2 tablespoonfuls of rice in 2 cups of milk for nearly 3 hours, when the rice should be per- fectly soft. Pass this through a colander into a saucepan, and put on the back of the stove to keep hot while 2 eggs are being thor- oughly beaten into 2 heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar and a pinch of salt. When this is light and the rice boils up, stir the eggs in slowly with a spoon for a minute or two till the whole is like a thick,, soft custard. •Ice Cream for an Invalid. — Sometimes the patient has a fancy for something cold, and in the later stages of convalescence an ice is not at all harmful. Slightly scald a pint of sweet cream, mix with it 572 COOKING FOR INVALIDS. three-quarters of a cup of powdered sugar, 1 teaspoon of vanilla flavoring and one of good brandy. Beat stiff the whites of two eggs, stir in lightly and freeze. Freeze in a little Jin pail with a tightly- fitting cover. Set in a wooden pail and pack around with alternate layers of ice and salt, lay wet cloths over the top and set in a cool place. In about three-quarters of an hour open the can, cut away the frozen portion from the sides. In half an hour more it should be solid. Sterilized Milk for ChUdren.-;— Put the milk in clean bottles the size to have the contents used once. Then put the bottles into a large kettle or other metal receptacle. Pour cold water into the kettle until the water reaches the level of the milk in the bottles. Now close the mouth of «each bottle with a plug of clean white cotton fibre. Heat the kettle and contents to 155 degrees Fahrenheit. Then remove from the fire and cover the whole affair snugly with a woolen cloth to keep from cooling at once. Leave half an hour, then take out the bottks and keep them in running water or in any cool place, leaving them~still stoppered with the plug of cotton. The flexible wooden stoppers ifsed with some kinds of patent glass jars would answer in place of cotten, the object being to exclude air, dust and germs. Be careful not to heat above 155 degrees, or the milk will not taste quite right. In practice it will be found a good idea to make easier the circulation of the hot water by placing a wire frame an inch or two in height in the kettle beneath the bottles. Milk carefully treated by the above process may be warranted free from disease germs, and it will keep sweet about 24 hours. Menu for Baby. — The average healthy child of 14 months and upward, is better for a carefully ojiosen variety in its diet. The fol- lowing bills of fare will answer for any healthy child of from 14 months up to 2^ years of age : I 1. Milk to drink. Half a saucer of oatmeal with a little butter and salt. Half a saucer of oatmeal with cream and sugar. A few teaspoonfuls of strained prune juice. 2. Thoroughly mashed potato, with a little butter, cream and salt. A thick strip of rare beefsteak to suck (should be allowed only the juice). A few teaspoonfuls of finely scraped apple. Milk to drink. 3. Half a soft boiled «gg. Milk toast. Baby tea — made of milk and warm water in equal pro- portions, with sugar and a drop of vanilla. 4. Bread and milk. A few COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 67* teaspoonfuls fine grained apple sauce. Half slice of bread with beef- steak gravy. 6. Half saucer of^rice with butter and salt. Half saucer rice with cream and sugar. Two or 3 teaspoonfuls of orange juice. Milk to drink. 6. Half teacup of beef tea. Crack;ers and milk. Third of a slice bread with pure maple syrup. 7. A littld strained fig syrup (if constipated) made by boiling figs in- water with sugar. Mush and milk. Small slice bread and butter without crust. 8. A teaspoonful of the breast of chicken or turkey minced very fine. Toast and milk. Small lump of sugar for dessert. 9. Oat- meal, crackers and milk. Baked potato, cream and salt. Whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. 10. Half s)ice buttered toast, with- out crust. Bread and milk. Taste of custard, wine, jelly or melted vanilla or chocolate ice cream. The Medicine Closet. — Every well regulated household has a medicine closet. This does not mean that a whole cupboard out of the scant supply of the average flat must be given over to medicine bottles and plasters. There are on sale at all furnishing stores and at most of the dry- goods shops medicine cabinets, varying in size and in make, but all of them falling within the average housekeeper's means. One of these should be fastened out of reach of the children in mother's room. The properly equipped medicine cabinet is at least half closed and locked. In this compartment the poisons which are household remedies should be kept. Amitaonia and alcohol belong to this class as well as laudanum and arnica. Salves, lotions and the like may be kept on the unguarded shelf compartment. Antidotes for , poisons, liniments for stings, cuts and ' bruises, plasters and plenty of material for bandages should be kept in the closet. Witch hazel, for sores and burns, should not be forgotten, nor the helpful, simple soda, nor potash for, gargling. It is an excel- lent idea to have tacked to the door of the cabinet a typewritten list of things to do and remedies to give in emergencies. In "it also should be found the temporary relief for a severe headache, the mustard for footbath, or the invaluable plaster, for which, however, might be substituted the more convenient mustard leaves; vaseline or pure sweet oil, which would be fou;id to be invaluable for bums ; oil of cloves, seidlitz powders and citrate of magnesia. POISONS AND ANTIDOTES. Acetate of Lead (or sugar of lead). — Give Epsom/^ltsordilute sul- phuric acid, provo!^ vomiting, give bland liquids, give dose of castor oil. ' Acids (sulphuric, nitric, muriatic and oxalic). — Give an alkali, strong, clean soapsuds, a piece of soap will do, provoke vomiting, give bland liquids, rest patient, relifeve pain by opium; if faint, stimulate, feed by enema. Aconite. — Provoke vomiting, stimulate well, keep up the breathing, give digitalis and atropine. Alcohol.— Provoke vomiting, give hartshorn and water. Alkalies (harsthorh, soda, potash and lye).— 'Give vinegar or other acid, provoke vomiting, give bland liquids, secure rest, relieve pain by opium, and stimulate if necessary. Arsenic (paris green. Fowler's solution, etc.). — Provoke vomiting, give dose castor oil, secure rest and , stimulate if necessary. Bland Liquids— Are milk, gruel, raw eggs, oil of some kind, barley water, mucilage, etc. Carbolic Acid (Epsom salts, oil and glycerine). — Produce vomiting and stimulate. Decayed Meat or Vegetables. —Provoke vomiting, wash out the stomach, give a purgative, give an enema, give powdered charcoal and peroxide of hydrogen. Iodine. — Provoke /omiting, give starch and water, give bland fluids. Mercury (corrosive sublimate, antitiiony or tartar emetic). — ^Pro- voke vomiting, give some infusion cpntaining tannic acid, give raw eggs and milk, give dose of castor oil and stimulate if necessary. Nitrate of Silver (luhar caustic), — Give strong salt and water, pro- voke vomiting, repeat many times. e74 Opiuin - (laudanum, morphine, paregoric, etc.).— Provoke vbmiting repeatedly, give strong coffee or tea in larjge quantities, keep up the breathing, walk patient around, do not allow him to go to sleep. Phosphorus.— Provoke voihiting by repeated five-grain doses of sul- phate of copper, give dose of mag- nesia, but no oil. Poisonous Gases. — Fresh air, oxygen, artificial respiration, nitro- glycerine, stimulation. Of course it would be decidedly dangerous for any one except a physi- cian to meddle with the drugs men- tioned as antidotes. When poison'^ has been taken, a doctor should be sent for in hot-haste. A stomach pump may be required, even in what seems a simple case lo treat, and patients frequently require ah anti- dote or stimulant administered hypo- dermatically, A physician Is certainly the first necessity, but while awaiting his arrival it is highly necessary not one instant of time should be lost, lest the patient soon sink beyond as- sistance. Something may be done in every case if the proper method be understood. To provoke vomiting, mix a table- spoonful of ground mustard in a pint of lukewarm water (give warm water alone while mixing the mustard and water), or a teaspoonful of powdered ipecac, or a tablespoonful of the syrup, or a quicker and simpler way, thrust the finger down the throat. Paste up a printed list of poisons^ and antidotes on the inside of some' closet door. Toadstool (hemlock, tobacco, etc.). — Provoke vomiting and give a purge, stimulate well and keep up th» breathing, preferably with battery. Scientific Hygienic Cookery. KATE FIELD has a word of advice for the coming woman. " Dear Graduates" (she says, in addressing a class of col- lege girls): "Cooking is the alphabet of your happiness. I do not hesitate to affirm that this Republic, great as heir necessities are in many directions, needs cooks more than all else. The salvation of the national stomach depends upon them. We are a nation of dyspeptics, and Americans are dyspeptics because they eat the wrong foods, badly cooked, which they drown in ice water. They are dyspeptics, because our women don't know the rudiments of their business, and resign their kitchens into the hands of incom- petent servants, of whom they are afraid, and whose impudence they frequently endure through sheer helplessness. Be cooks first, and anything you please afterward. On you posterity waits." In the A, B, C, of a girl's life Cooking really comes first. It is the beginning of the alphabet of happiness. Remember the table is the hub upon which the health of the family revolves. Doctors are turned from our medical schools by the hundreds to thrive off badly-fed people. Ruskin tells us that a nation's wealth depends entirely upon the number of healthy individuals the nation can show. If this be true, then are we poor indeed in America. A person who is insufficiently nourished is in condition to accept and keep almost any disease that is flying in the atmosphere. We are fold that if our stomach is in a healthy condition, we need not fear cholera or yellow fever — ^two dread diseases. We are also told that the well fed, whose bodies are in a perfect condition, are safe in typhus regions ; and we do know that the happiness of the individual is largely due to the condition of hfs stomach. Edwin Russell made a very truthful remark when he said that " the physique has much more to do with the success of the man than his actual mental power, and where the two are combined success is certain." It requires but little observation to note that the very brainy man, with a poor and insufficiently-nourished body, lasts but a little while. In sharp con^' trast to his short career is the well-fed and energetic man whose body is equal in development, and who goes on to comfortable old age. Boys and girls, at the age of entering college, break down, not having the physique to go on with their studies, although their brain •76 676 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. powers are perfectly developed. The mother, in building this foun- dation, has forgotten to put in the lasting stones. Not because she wishes to do it, but because cooking has fallen to the share of the ignorant, and she has been willing to trust her family in their hands; and as a result, when the boys or girls ei^ter the work of life, they enter it tired and worn, and do not find themselves at forty with a Gladstone physique at eighty. Not rich or costly dishes, but simple food so well prepared that the satisfied body shall not think of itself from one meal to another. It is the discomfort and hankering of an ill-fed stomach that drives some men to drink and others to the insane asylums. Mrs. Rorer says that " in the twentieth century our cooks will be college graduates, women of position. All bills of fare will be made out with an object. The right and proper proportion of all materials will be converted into each meal, so that the muscles, bones, and nerves will be equally fed. And if for any reason a child be born whose equilibrium is not perfect, a line of diet will be imme- diately prescribed to square him up, as it were." The classes that fill our insane asylums do it not so much because they, are overworked, but because their food has riot been studied in accordance with their duties. It is suicidal for a man in an office to eat food that would be the proper sort for a farmer, and vice versa. To the really civilized mind, the hygiene of the stomach is the hygiene of the mind and soul, and the art of cooking one of the greatest of all ^rts. While the highest regions of social and intellectual achievement c^re opeirto women, they could not bring their power to bear more effectually than by seeing to it that the dinners of their husbands and brothers are well cooked. Health, appetite, digestion, and good temper are essential to suc- cess in nearly all the Undertakings of life, including success in making ' love. But how can there be good health and good temper under the constant and depressing infliction of badly cooked, indigestible meals ? Napoleon is said to have lost the battle of Waterloo because of a fit of indigestion, after a hastily swallowed dinner. The pangs of his stomach prevented him from making his combinations on the field with his accustomed -skill and rapidity. The people whose, meals, however simple, are wholesome and Well cooked, will fight almost to the death for their civil and political right?. It is badly cooked and SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 677 insufficient food which, as much as anytjiing else, swells the ranks of wild-eyed Anarchism. Pure food and good cooking are, therefore, essential means not only of promoting economy in living, and har- mony in the domestic circle, but of preserving the general peace of society. " It is stated on authority, that three-fourths of the diseases which afflict mankind have their origin in innutritions and unwholesome food. It is also stated that, other things being equal, man's power of resistance to evil is in direct proportion to his physical vigor. If these two statements are true, no other plea is needed in favor of wholesome food." Hygienic cookery implies a knowledge of the waste and repair in the human system, and the relative value of various food elements, and the chemical changes they undergo during the process of diges- tion. Heat is required to maintain the body at a normal tempera- ture. This heat is supplied by carbon in our food. If the food is deficient in carbon, we become thin and cold ; on the other hand, if carbon is supplied in excess, the body becomes fat, and is easily over- come by heat. Skin diseases, also, and those of an inflanimatory nature, are often produced by an excessive carbonaceous diet. A highly carbonaceous diet should be avoided in warm weather, if we would escape the depressing effects of the heated term. The lumberman, daily exposed to the rigors of a northern winter, would almost perish without it. Carbon is to the human body what fuel is to the fire ; and though necessary to the life of every man, woman, and child, the amount required by each varies with the season of the year, the occupation, or individual powers of assimilation. There is, also, a constant loss of brain and nervous'force and energy in pi;opor- tion to the demands made upon each of us by our life's work. The di?t of professional men, students, teachers, and all brain-workers, should be simple, nutritious, easy of digestion, and rich in the phos- phates, which build up brain and nerve. Although cheese is stronger in phosphates than any other article of food, it is too concentrated to be indulged in freely by persons of sedentary habits. Cheese and beans are pre-eminently the food of the working-man, the latter containing twenty-four per cent, of nitro- genous or musde-making matter, and cheese sixty-five per cent. It is obvious that the large proportion of nitrates requires to be supple- 37 578 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. mented with food of- which carbon is the chief constituent Besides the carbonates, which supply fuel, the nitrates, which repair muscular waste, and the phosphates, brain and nervous force, there are other necessary, though less important substances, which go to renew the fourteen elements of which the human body is composed • as lime, potash, sulphur, etc. It is the primary object of hygienic cookery, to supply these elements in the right proportion, and ia a condition in which they may be most easily assimilated. The marked absence of any of the more important, results in weakened vitality, and the ex- cess, by overtaxing the various functions of the body in the effort to dispose of what is nothing more than waste matter. Fat and heat-producing materials are found abundantly in rice, cornmeal, starch, honey, cream, sugar, butter, etc. ; ^nd in lesser pro- portion in nearly all food products in their wholesome state. Much of the nutritive property of food depends upon the manner of cooking. All meats not intended for soups should be exposed to intense heat for the first few minutes of the cooking process, to coagulate the albumen on the outside, which prevents the escape of the juices, and, therefore, of flavor and nutrition. To boil meat, immerse in boiling water and boil- rapidly for fifteen minutes, then stew gently, but steadily, until tender. Long-continued hard boiling toughens the fibre of the tenderest meat, and renders it indigestible and flavorless, since rapid evaporation involves a loss of flavor. If both the broth and meat are to be used — that is, if a stew is to be made — the process should be entirely different. For stewing, the meat should be cut into small pieces and put into cold water, in order that as much of the juice and n»tural material as possible may be dissolved. The temperature of the it^ater should then be raised to about 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and kept there for some hours. Treated in this way, the broth will be rich and the meat tender and juicy. If the water be made much hotter than 18^ degrees Fahrenheit, the result will be dry, hard fibres. Meats to be baked may hawe a carving-fork thrust into the fat portion, where the juices do not flow, and be held over a bed of hot coals or a gasoline biirner, until thfc outside is seared. Continue the process of cooking in the oven at a lower temperature. Turn and baste frequently, and serve rare, if the foapt v kt^c pork requires always to be thoroughly cooked.^ SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. 579 All vegetables should be put on to cook in boiling water, with salt, except corn and beans, on which salt has a hardening effect, and boiled rapidly and constantly until done. Green peas, and corn when cut off the cob, parsnips, summer squash, and. string beans, should not have more water put on them: than will boil away by the time they are done, as the liquor contains a large part of the nutriment, which would be lost if poured off. Corn boiled more than 20 minutes is rendered tough and difficult of digestion. The time for cooking other vegetables varies somewhat with age, variety, etc., and can, only be determined by experiment Too long cooking renders the more delicate varieties insipid and flavorless ; too little does not secure the proper bursting of the starch cells necessary to easy digestion. Rice and cereals require thorough cooking. Fruits should be closely covered and cooked slowly until just done, not longer, as their deli- cacy would be impaired. Experiments indicate that roastfe'd meat is more completely di- gested than boiled meat. The smaller the cut to be roasted, the hotter should be the fire. An intensely hot fire makes a thick crust on the outside of the roast, by coagulation, and prevents the drying up of the juices inside. The same rule holds good for broiling. A steak exposed to an intense heat for ten minutes will be thoroughly cooked, and yet have the desirable rare, juicy appearance when cut. Patty Poods. Many physicians are ordering thin bread and butter for delicate patients, especially those suffering from dyspepsia, consumption, and anaemia, or any who need to take on flesh. This thin bread and butter insensibly induces persons to eat much more ^^butter than they have any idea of. This is one advantage, and a great one, in the feeding of invalids, for~they are thereby provided with an excellent form of the fat which is so essential for their nutrition, in a way that lures them to take it without rebellion. But the thin bread and butter has another advantage,- equally great; it is very digestible, and .easily assimilated. Fresh butter, made from cream, is very much more digestible when spread upon thin slices of bread, than the same amount of cream, eaten as cream per se, would be. Very few housekeepers can realize the nutritive value of cream and understand its superiority to any other solid fats, in permitting 680 SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. ' the gastric juice to mix with it in the most perfect manner, and in this way aiding and hastening digestion. It is invaluable in the case of invalids, for it serves as nutriment in a very available form. It is superior to butter, because it contains more volatile oil than butter made from it. It is frequently ordered by physicians for persons consumptively inclined, for thoSe with feeble digestions, or aged persons, and for those who suffer from impaired circulation, cold feet, and who feel chilly from want of nutriment. No other article of food gives such satisfactory results. Many complain that they cannot drink milk without its disagree- ing with them. The common reason why milk is not digested readily is that it is taken too rapidly into the stomach, where it becomes one solid mass, difficult of digestion. If it is sipped, it is so divided on reaching the stomach that, while coagulated by the, gastric juices, instead of being in one hard mass, it is in the form of a sponge, and in this form more readily acted updh throughout by the digestive fluids. Fruits. / There is nothing so brightens the complexion and heightens the color as a diet of sweet, winy fruits. (Of course not forgetting a system of baths and exercise.) Buy grapes, peaches, and plums by the box, and eat them before they have time to spoil. When these are gone, get sweet oranges and tart grape fruit. It is a mistake to keep fruit. When a peach has lost its bloom, or a bunch of grapes has a brown, dried stem, it is no longer a beautifying or vitializing food. " Garden-of-Eden breakfasts "^have no rival as natural cosmetics. ► All manner of fruits, with just enough of some daintly-cooked cereal to render the repast sufficient, will give to any devotee of this regimen a complexion that will be the envy of the less fortunate. Unite to this fare such beverages as orangeade, lemonade, fruit juices, root- beers, and cereal coffees, and the day is well begun. Figs, dates, prunes, stewed currants, and even dried apples can be made to do duty for this purpose, and it is surprising what an amount of nourishment and working strength can be extracted from a fruit diet. Apples, oranges, shaddocks, bananas and canned fruit, of course, are excellent fare for Spring, but the cheaper dried fruits are by no SCIENTIFIC HYGIENIC COOKERY. » 581 means to be despised. In England this regimen, with the additiov of brown bread and butter or cream, is followed all the year round with the children of upper-class families, and the Scotch choose oat- meal for a similar use. Our own western children are proof of what good flesh and bone can be built on a steady diet of cornmeal. Oat- meal is a little too heavy, and rice, cracked or whole, hominy or yellow cornmeal should be substituted for breakfast, The more of these dishes, served with fruit and cream^ that are eaten throughout the day, the sooner will all thoughts of illness be driven away. The orange fad is to be encouraged as most satisfactory in its results. Orange juice, whether sweet or sour, is recommended by medical authorities as a balm to the digestion and a. stimulus to the entire system, unequaled by any tonic. Women who, have given oranges a fair and free trial, are willing to exhibit their blooming cheeks and clear eyes as evidence in support of the theory, and those who have pushed the orange cure to its limit, recommend the juice above ^11 as a remairkable sedative. It is nerves that prey upon the American woman's system, and the orange reaches and steadies her tingling brain fibres. To take up this diet in earnest, five or six oranges are consumed in a day. They must be perfectly ripe, and the jliice only must be used, all other portions being hopelessljr indigestible. Nothing, hold the orange eaters, so tones up the system after a tedious day, takes the dark lines from about the eyes, and keeps the digestion perfect, as oranges, taken in place of tea, coffee, or other stimulants. Take two or three in the itiorning immediately after rising, at midday two more, and half an hour before dinner take the remainder of the half dozen. An apple diet is also one of the easiest foods for the stomach to deal with, the whole process of digestion only consuming eighty-five minutes. The acid of ripe apples, either cooked or raw, helps to digest meat, to stimulate the liver, and neutralize npxious matters that are likely to produce skin eruptions. Apples, eaten with meat in place of potatoes, are a golden food. The salts and wine sweeten the stomach, the phosphorus is a nerve-builder, and women of all ages, since Eve's days, liked to believe that the " food of the gods" imparted its delicate white to the flesh. Why not ? Beef-eaters and wine-drinkers are red. REMEDIAL FOODS. A table giving the remedial qualities of the common fruits and vegetables is herewith appended : — Celery for any fonn of rheumatism and nervous dyspepsia. Lettuce for insomnia. Watey-cress for scurvy. Onions are almost the best nervine known. Use for insomnia, for coughs and colds, and as a, complesdon curer. Eaten every . other day, they soon have a clearing and whitening, effect en the complexion. Spinach for gravel. Asparagus to induce perspiration. Carrots for suffering from asthma. Turnips for nervous disorders and for scurvy. Raw beef proves of great benefit to per- sons of &ail constitution, and to those suf- fering fro^ consumption. It, is chopped fine, seasoned with salt, and heated by plac- ing it in a dish in hot water. It assimilates rapidly and affords the best nourishment. Eggs contain a large amount of nutpment in a compact, quickly available form. Beaten up raw with sugar they are used to clear and strengthen the voice. With sugar and lemon juice the beaten white of egg is used to relieve hoaiseness. Cranberries for erysipelas are used exter- nally as well as internally. Cranberries eaten raw are one of the finest tonics apd appetizers known. In cases of yellow or typhoid fever, cran- berries are almost indispensable as a tonic and to assist in clearing the system of the harmful bacteria. For some forms of dyspepsia there is no more simple and effective remedy than raw cranberries. Carry, a supply in the pocket and eat them frequently during the day. Xhey will cure headache as well. People who are subject to biliousness ^11 find that with cranberries a part of each day's food they vrill be free from such at- tacks. Honay is wholesome, strengthening, cleans- ing, healing and nonrishing. Fresh ripe fhiits are excellent for purify- ing the blood and toixing up the system, 682 Sour oranges are highly recommended for rheumatism. Watermelon for epilepsy and for yellow fever. Lemons for feverish thirst in sickness, biliousness, low fevers, rheumatism, colds, coughs, liver complaints, etc. . Blackberries for diarrhoea. Tomatoes are a powerful aperient for the liver, a sovereign remedy for dyspepsia and for indigestion. Tomatoes are invaluable in all conditions in which the use of calomel is indicated. Figs are aperient and wholesome. They are said to be valuable as a food for those suffering from cancer. They are tised ez- tem^ly as well as internally. Bapanas are usefiil as a food for those suffering firom chronic diarrhoea. Pieplant is wholesome and aperient; is excellent for rheumatic sufferers and useful for purifying the blood. Peanuts for indigestion. They are espedally recommended for corpulent diabetes. Pea- nuts are made into, a wholesome and nutri- tious soup, are browned and used as a coffee, are eaten as a relish simply baked, or are prepared and served as salted almonds. Apples are usefiil in nervous dyspepsia; they are nutritions, medicinal and vitalizing; they aid digestion, clear the voice, correct the acidity of the stomach, are valuable in rhe^uuatism, insomnia, and liver trouble. An apple contains qs much nutriment as a potato, in a pleasaniter, more wholesome form. Grapes dissolve and dislodge gravel and calci^i, and bring the stomadh and bowels to a healthy condition. Ripe pineapples bave been put upon the list of 'foods especially healthful for persons troubled with indigestion, the juice being especially valuable in such cases. Shred ■viitb. a silver fork, and reject all the indi- gestible core. The juice of a ripe janeapple is an almost invaluable remedy for daph- theria, the acid seeming to dissolve the strangling growth in the throat. In arranging a menu it will be well to take for a motto the remark of Socrates when looking on at an auction : " How many things there are which I do not need !" A good soup — one dainty relish, such as celery, radishes, caviare sand- wiches or olives ; a fish or meat, one or two vegeta- bles and a dessert, is a bill of fare within the com- pass of any good manager. Two or three dozen tart shells, kept in a covered tin pail, should be in store for " emergency teas." Crisp them in the oven, then let them get cold before filling. With these, cookies, varieties of pickles arid canned fruit, jelly, a few cans of firesh and corned beef or salmon, a fruit cake, and what can be gathered from the garden, appetizing Smners and teas can be quickly improvised for unexpected guests. MEALS FOR TO-DAY. BREAKFAST. 'Sfewed fruit. Rice muffins. Soft boiled eggs. Thin bread and butter. " Coffee. LUNCH. GUeau of cold meat. Baked potatoes (in their jackets). Moulded prunes. Cocoanut buns. Tea. Dried green-pea soup. Ragout of rabbit. Sweet pickles. Potatoes (i la cr6me). Parsnips (American fashion). ' Amber pudding- Coffee. BREAKFAST. Fruit galad. Weat croquettes. LAronnaise potatoes. French coffee cake. Coffee. LUNCH. Creamed shrimps on toast. Brown bread. Brandied peaches. Cocoa. DINNER. Fried chicken with rice. Flaked potatoes. Celery salad Fig pudding — egg sauce. Coffee. BREAKFAST. . Sliced oranges. Hominy flakes and cream. Lyonnaise tripe. Thin com cake. German coffee. LUNCH. Chicken in jelly. Boston brown bread and bUttor. ' - Dutch apple cake. Tea. 688 584 BILLS OF FARE. DINNER. Mock bisque soup. Oyster pie. Scalloped sweet potatoes. Turkish pilar. Sweet pickled peaches. Cabinet pudding, "epicures' sauce. Coffee. BREAKFAST. Apple sauce. Liver croquettes. Fried potatoes. CoflFee, Rolls. ^ DINNER. French pea soup. Breaded veal cutlets. Stuffed potatoes. Cabbage salad. Prune compote. ' • SUPPER. Creamed fish. Fish kartoffel. ' Hot beet salad. Graham muffins. Scalloped apples. Tea. BREAKFAST. Milk tapioca. Kidneys and tomatoes. Potato chips. Johnny cake. Apple sauce. Coffee. DINNER. Stewed knuckle of veal. Mashed potatoes. Friar's omelet. Tea. Pickles. SUPPER. Shepherd's pie. Stewed pears. Cup custard. Yorkshire tea cakes. Chocolated BREAKFAST. Cold cracked wheat and cream. Liver and bacon. Baked potatoes. Grandmother's griddle cakes. Bread and butter. Coffee. DINNER. Veal stew. Mashed potatoeii Asparagus. Rhubarb blanc mange. SUPPER. ' Toast. Strawberries and cream. Chocolate. New York bun» MEALS FOR EACH DAY OF THE W^EEK. ., Sunday. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Wheat germ. Cream and Sugar. , Breaded Calves' brains. Creamed potatoes. Muffins. Coffee. DINNER. Clear soup Baked white fish. Broiled spring chickqn. Green peas. Mashed potatoes. / Celery. Lettuce with French dressing. Cheese straws. Orange sherbet. Cake. Coffee. LUNCH. Salad of chicken and peas. Bread and butter sandwiches. Chocolate. Jiunbles. BREAKFAST. Maple syrup. Cream biscuit. Pate de fois gras. Radishes. Coffee. DINNER. (Cold.) Cold deviled fish. Brown breaa Rolled shoulder of mutton. String beans, French dressing. Mayonnaise of tomatoes. Wafers, Fruit jelly. Sponge cake. ^ SUPPER. Eggs, Swiss style. Lettuce Date sandwiches. Oatmeal snaps. Cocoa. Boiled rice. String beans, Tomato scallop. ^ Salad lettuce, French dressing Rocquefort cheese. Wafers Omelette a la Celestine. Coffee. SUPPER. Egg salad, with Mayonnaise. Thin brown bread and butter. Raspberries and cream. White cake. Tea. BILLS OF FARE. 88A Monday. BREAKFAST. Fruit Farinose. Sugar and cream. Codfish and cream. Baked potatoes. Toast. CofFeeo LUNCH. Cold slices veal loaf. Onion Sandwiches- Stewed Fruit. Wafers. Tea. DINNER. Puree of pea soup. Ragout of lamb. Currant j6lly. Stuffed potatoes. Boiled rice. Cucumber salad. Wafers. Cheese. Sliced peaches. Coffee. » Baked tomatoes stuffed with lice. Beet salad. Lemon pie. Cheese. Fruit. Black coffee. BREAKFAST. Oatmeal, with milk. Fried home-made sausages. Cakes. Bread and butter. Coffee. Wheat LUNCH. Cheese omelet. Yeast puffs. Fruit. Salad. Tea. Salmis of pork. Nudle timbales. Potatoes. Pudding a laJlothschild. BREAKFAST. Fruit Cracked wheat and milk. Beefsteak with tomatoes. Potato balls. Old Virginia com bread. Cafe au lait The picayune. Lunch. Meat souffle. Scalloped potatoes. Muffins. Buttermilk. DINNER. Mutton broth. Fricassee chicken. Potatoes. Green peas. Boiled com. String beans. Tuesday. BREAKFAST. Sliced oranges. Broiled ham. Potato chips. Muffins. Veal cutlets. Coffee. DINNER. Tomato soup. Roast loin of mutton. Celery salad. Oyster patties. Creamed potatoes. Boiled onions. Lemon pudding. Fruits. Coffee. Nuts. •, SUPPER. Beef tongue. Chicken croquettes French rolls. Lemon jelly. Tea chocolate. BREAKFAST. Wheatlet. Rolls. Fmit Sugar and cream. Hash on toast. - Scrambled eggs. Coffee. LUNCH. Rice croquettes. Brown bread and butter. Baked apples. Tea. I DINNER. Celery soup. Hamburg steaks. Brown sauce. Mashed potatoes. Boiled onions. Lettuce salad. Wafers. Olives. Chees&. Baked custards. Coffee. Wednesday. BREAKFAST. Rolled avena. Fish with cream. Potato cakes. Rice muffins. Coffee. LUNCH. Stuffed tomatoes. Cream sauce, Brown bread and butter. Fruit Wafers. Egg lemonade. 686 BILLS OF FARE. Cream of cauUflow*r soup. Veal croquettes. Tomato sauce. Boiled potatoes. String beans. Cucumber salad. W«fers, Cherry water ice. Coffee. Cheese. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Germ^^, with sugar and cream. Broiled beefsteak. Hashed brown potatoes. Waffles. Coffee. LUNCH. Bouillon. Meat souffle. Banana fritters. Fruit Tea. DINNER. Vermicelli soup. Roast lamb, mint sauce. Boiled potatoes. , Green peas. Stewed celery. Cucumber salad. Wafers. Charlotte Russe. Cheese. Coffee. Thursday. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Wheatlet. Cream. Hamburg steaks. Brown sauce. Gems. -Coffee. LUNCH. Frizzled beef. Corn pudding. Coffee. Compote of cherries. DINNER. Cream of beet soup. "Broiled steak. Mashed potatoes. Onions. Cream sauce. String beans. Salad of cress and lettuce. Wafers. Cheese. Peach sponge. Coffee. BREAKFAST. Stewed evaporated apricots. Fish cakes. Boiled _eg^. Hominy fritters. Minced vealon toast Crumpets. Coffee. LUNCH. Cream of celery soup. Ragout of veal. Rice, Spanish style, DINNER'. Oysters. Giblets with rice. Olives. - Radishe& Salmon k la Creole. Potato balls, maitre d'hotel butter. Chicken fricassee. String beans. Roast leg of mutton. Turnips. Lettuce salad. Bohemian cream. Coffee. Friday. BREAKFAST. Fruit Farinose. Hominy croquettes. Bacon. Toast Coffee. LUNCH. Fried sweetbreads. PeaSL Fruit Wafers. Tea. DINNER. Split pea soup. Roast lamb. Mint sauce. New potatoes. Asparagus salad. Waffles. Coffee^ Cornstarch pudding. Sauce. Coffee. BREAKFAST. Oatmeal and milk. Broiled trout. French fried potatoes. Square muffins. Cafe au lait. The picayvme, LUNCH. Codfish balls. Crackers. Olives. Peach jam. Cake. Iced lemonade. DINNER. Craij gumbo. Court bouillon. Mashed potatoes. Baked redfish. Shrimp jamalaya. Olives. Green peas. Stewed corn and milk. Butter beans. , Tomato and g^reen pepper salad. Queen's pudding. Vanilla ice. Fruit Coffee. BILLS OF FARE. 667 Saturday. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Granula. Cream and sugar. Calves' liver and bacon. Potato croquettes. Entire wheat muffins. Cofifee. I.UNCH. Deviled eggs. French toast. Shredded oranges. Angel food. Tea. Consomme soup. Hamburg steak. Fried onions. Mashed potatoes. Vegetable oysters. Celery salad. Cracker fruit pudding. - Wine sauce. Coffee.^ SKXAEPAST. Fruit. Wheatlet Sugar and cream. Liver and bacon. French fried potatoes. Com gems. Coffee. LUNCH. Salad. Baked apples. Graham bread. Tea. DINNER. Puree of peas. Shepherd's pie. Stuffed tomatoes. Com. Cold slaw. Wafers. Edam cheesci Brown betty. Coffee. UTTIiE DINITBBS. First. Oysters on the half shell. Soup, Rgast turkey. Mashed potatoes. Cre»ned celery. Stewed tomatoes. Salad. Mince pie. Plum pudding. Apple Snow. Nuts and Raisins. Salted almonds. Candied fruits. Coffee. Second. Raw o)rsters. Tomato soup. Sirloin ste!>k. ^ ' French fried potatoes. String beans. Chicory salad. Lemon meringue pie. Coffee. Fmit Third. Consomme. Shad roes, tomato sauce. Boned shoulder of lamb, stuffed. Browned mashed potatoes. String beans. Creamed turnips. Salad, asparagus. French dressing. Cheese. Water wafers. Ideal tapioca pudding. Coffee. Fourth. Split pea soup. Boiled cod, sauce HoUandaise. Beef tongue au gratin. Brown sauce; Browned potatoes. Asparagus. Bermuda onions. Salad, lettuce and cucunibers. Vanilla ice cream, lady cake. Coffee. '^ Londonderry lithia sparkling water. Fifth. Ci"eam of barley soup. Fillets of flounders. Sirloin steak with mushrooms. Bermuda potatoes. Spinach moulded "Spaghetti, with tomato. Salad, cauliflower, Mayonnaise- Orange fritters. Coffee. Sixth. Chicken soup, with noodles. Fried halibut, with cold slaw. Boast ribs of beef, brown gravjr. Mashed potatoes. Stewed lentils. Celery fritters. Birds on toast. Salad, lettuce, French dressing. Cream cheese. Wafers. Apricot ffoat, with cake. Coffee. ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Beef 172 A la Mode 178 Beef, Stewed, or other Meats . . ,. 176 Bosto^i Roast . . . . . .>. . . . 173 Beefsteak with Mushroom Sauce . . 175 Beefsteak, Braised 174 Beefeteak Pudding 176 Beefsteak Pie (French Style) ... 175 Beef or Mutton, Curried 178 Bfififsteak with Oyster Sauce . . . 174 - Chipped 182 Corned Beef, Rolled 179 Corned Beef, Pressed 179 Dried, Gravied 182 Dried, with Eggs 182 Dried, Frizzled in Cream ]82 Filletof 173 Flank, Stuffed .176 Flank, Rolled 177 Heart, Stuffed 181 Liver and Bacon, Fried 179 ' Liver, Stewed 179 . Meat Jelly 181 Meat and Potato Pie 180 New England Boiled Dinner . . . 180 Pickled, Pressed . . . 178 Pressed 179 Roast, with Yorkshire Pudding . . 172 Rib Roast, Stuffed 173 Roast 172 Stew, Cape Cod 177 Steak, Hamburg 175 Steak, Spanish 175 Shank, Boiled 178 Steak, Stewed with Oysters .... 174 Steak, Broiled 173 Tongue, Pickled 180 Tongue, Deviled 181 Tongue, Braised ^ . ' 181 Tongue, Spiced . . > ISl Virginia, Spiced 177 Yorkshire Pudding , . 173 Bills of Pare .583 Biscuit ; .... 304 Baking Powder, Substitution of . . 304 Buttermilk 306 688 Biscuit (Continued). Cream of Tartar and Soda, without Milk 305 Raised Graham 305 Scotch Scones 317 Suggestions for Making 304 Blanc Mange .v 417 ' Almond 413 Banana 418 Chocolate . 418 Cornstarch 417 Rhubarb 418 Buns 307 Caraway 307 Hot Cross . 307 Puffs, Oatmeal . i 307" Bread 294 Baked Brown 303 Baking Powder ....... 298, 301 Baking Powder, Home Made . . . 298 Baking, Time for 297 Boston Brown . 302 Entire Wheat 300 Graham 303 Indian .303 Left Over .^96 New Orleans Com 303 Oat Meal 304 Potato Sponge 300 Potato Yeast 298 Quick Buttermilk 301 Quick Graham 303 . Rye 303 Salt Raising 301 Serving Butter 296 Table of Proportions 297 Yeast, Hop 298 Yeast Cakes 298 Water 299 Wheat, Quick, 300 Wheat and Indian 302 Cakes 364 Almond 379 Almonds, to Blanch 36S Ambrosia 388 Angei Food . . . 37# ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 589 Ukes (Continued). Apple Jelly 386 Apple Snow 386 ^sinana layer 382 Beny 385 BlackFruit 374 , Butter, To Sweeten 367 Cakes, Holiday 392 Caramel 387 Cheap Fruit 375 Chocolate Caramel 381 Chocolate Cream 380 Chcicolate Layer 381 Chocolate Loaf 377 Chocolate Marble 377 Cochineal Coloring 371 Cocoanut and Almond Layer . , . 383 Cocoanut Layer • . . 383 Coffee 379 Com Starch 378 Cranbeny 385 Cream Fruit (Plain) 375 Cream Puffs 391 Cream Sponge 377 Date 376 Delicate . . • •_ 378 Delmonico Wedding 374 Devil's Food 380 Dried Apple 375 Election 376 Fancy 389 Fig,Choice 376 Fig, Layer 384 Frosting 371 Frosting, Boiled 372 Frosting, Confectioners' ...... 372 Frosting, Cocoanut 372 Frosting, Pink 372 Frosting, Yellow 372 Frosting, Wedding Cake 373 Fruits for Cakes 367 FruitLayer. 387 German Orange 394 Home-made Flavoring Extracts . . 368 Horns of Plenty 392 Hot Water Sponge 377 Icing, Almond 373 Ice Cream 381 Icing, Eggless, Coffee 373 Idng, Eggless, Maple Sugar .... 373 Icing, Lemon 373 Icing, Lemon, Eggless 373 Idng, Soft 372 }am,Fruit 376 elly 386 Cakes i Jelly for . . . '. 888 fumbles. Almond 393 umbles, Cocoanut 393 Jumbles, Fruit 393 Jumbles, Grandmother's 393 Jumbles, Lemon 392 Lady ; 378 Lady Fingers 391 Layer . 3S0 Layer Spice 387 Lemon 379 Lemon Jelly 383 Lemon Layer 382 Lemon Snaps 391 Leb-Kuchen (German) 393 Lily 378 Loaf 380 Maple Caramel 387 Maple Sugar 387 Marshmallow 380 Minnehaha 888 Neapolitan ' 386 Nut 37& Orange 379 Orange Jelly 382 Orange Layer 382 1-2-3-4 380 Peach 385 Peanut , 393 Plum 375 .Pond Lily 388 Pound 379 Raisin Layer 387 Rebel • . . 388 RibbcinFig 384 Rolled Coffee 393 Sand Tarts . 392 Snaps — Coffee 391 Spiced Raisin 379 Sponge Cream 383 Sponge Fig 384 Sponge, Small Sheet ....... 377 Strawberry Layer 385 Substitute for Brandy 367 Table of Proportions 369 Tables of Weight's and Measures . . 370 Testing the Cake 367 Time Table for Baking 369 To Keep Fruit Fresh 367 Tutti Frutti Layer 384 Wafers, Almond 389 Wafers, Chocolate 390 Wafen, Cocoanut 390 Wafers, Q:«m Fniit 891 590 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. ■CaKes ^Continued). Wafers, Lemon 390 Wafers, Seed .- . . . 389 Wafers, Tea Lemon 391 Wafers, Vanilla 389 Wafers, Walnut 389 Walnut 376 Walnut Layer 386 Washington ,. 385 Joinnet Kuchen 394 Candles .....;. 641 Almonds, Salted. 549 Butter, Scotch 545 Barley, Sugar . ,. 643 Candied Violets 550 Caramels, Cream 542 , Ca^mels, Nut 542 Caramels, Tutti-Frutti .542 Chocolate Caramels 641, 542 Cocoanut Taffy 548 Colorings for 541 Cough 546 Cream Almonds 643 Cream Figs 647 Cream Tutti-Frutti 646 Date. . 646 Eggs for Easter] 547 Fig Paste 547 Fig Rock. 647 French Candies - 651 Fruit or Nut 646 Hickory-nut ......... 648; 649 Hoarhound 646 Ice Cream 643 Jujube Paste 642 Lemon Drops . ^ 644 Maple Balls 644 Maple Wax 544 Marshmallow 550 Maishmallows, Toasted 650 Meringue Kisses 645 Molasses ^ 643 Orange and Cocoanut 548 Old Style Cream 550 Peanut 649 Peanuts, Salted 549 Peppermints, Cream 544 Peppermint Drops 643 Popcorn .......' 645 Popcorn Balls 546 Popcorn, Sugared '. 546 Rose 547 Taffy, Vinegar 544 Wintergreen Drops 644 Canned Fruits . ..... . ; . fj% Apples and Raisins, To Can , . . 486 Apples, Canned 486 Asparagus, To Can 488 Beans, To Can 487 Beef Tongue, To Can ....... 488 Blackberries, Canned 485 Butter, Lemon 491 Butter, Orange 491 Canning 482 .Canning, Cold Water. . ... . . 484 Canning, Table for 481 Canned Tomatoes 487 Cans, To Seal 481 Cherries, Canned 486 Cherries in Molasses 486 Corn, To Can .^ ... 488 Cranberries, To Can 485 Currants, Canned, Green 485 Elderberries, Canned 484 Honey; Artificial ........ 490 Honey, Lemon 490 Honey, Nevada Mountain 490 Honey, Quince . . . ' ,491 Honey, Tomato 491 Hot Cakes, Syrups for 489 Lemon Syrup 490 Milk, To Can 488 Mulberries, To Can ....... 484 Peaces, Canned 485 Fears, -Canned ^ 485 Pe^, To Can 487 Pineapple, Catmed ......... 484 Plums, Canned .485 Pumpkin, To Can . . ; 487 Quinces, Canned 485 Rhubarb, To Can .487 Strawberries, Canned . . . . . . . 4S3 Syrups . 489 Syrup, Apricot 489 Syrup, Cherry ,....' 489 Syrup, Lemon 490 Syrup, Maple 489 Syrup, Quince . . . 489 Syrup, Orange 490 Syrup, Strawberry 489 'Tomatoes, To Can 487, 488 Carving 13 Beef, Ribs of 18 Beef, Sirloin of . 18 Calf s Head 31 Duck 29 Fowl, Boiled 28 Fowl, Roasted SH ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 691 Carving (Continued). Goose, Roasted 29 Grouse 28 Hare, Roasted 27 Lamb, Fore-quarter of 22 Mutton, Leg of 24 Mutton, Loin of .24 Mutton, Hatmch of. 21 Mutton, Saddle of 23 Ox Tongue Xi partridges 28 Pigeons, Trussed 30 Pig, Sucking 26 Shoulder, To Carve 24 Shoulder, Boned and Rolled ... 23 Turkey ." 28 Veal, Breast of 19 Veal, Fillet of 20 Veal, Knuckle of 20 Venison, Haunch of 26 Catsup and Spiced Fruits .... 322 Blackberries, Spiced 326 Catsup Celery . 324 Catsup, Cucumber 322 Catsup, Mushroom 323 Catsup, Old Virginia 323 Catsup, Southern 323 Catsup, Tomato 322 Catsup, Walnut 324 Cherries, Spiced . 325 Cranberries, Spiced 325 Gooseberries, Spiced 325 Oyster Sauce . , 324 Sauce, Chili 324 Sauce, Chutney 324 Sauce, Oyster 324 Chafing Dish Cookery 333 Chocolate Cream 337 Clams^ la Maryland S36 Clams, Ciream of , 336 Clams, Hashed Little Neck .... 337 Crabs, Soft Shell 337 Creme Oysters 336 Lobster, Creamed 336 Lobster au Naturel 336 Oysters, Creamed 336 Oysters, Escalloped 335 Oysters, Pan o . 335 Oysters with Celery, Creamed . . . 335 Pan Toast in Chafing Dish .... 335 Pudding, Spanish Cream 337 Rarebit, Welsh 334 Toast, Oyster 336 Cheese Dishes 344 Biscuit and Cheese, Deviled .... 346 Brown Bread Savories 347 Canapes S46 Celery. 347 Cheese and Bacon 348 Cottage 348 Crackers 346 Crackers, Lunch 346 Cream 348 Crusts . .' 345 Custard 345 Dessert 848 Deviled Cheese Crackers 346 Flakes 346 Fingers 345 Golden Buck 347 How to Keep from Moulding . . . 344 Puffs 347 Rings 347 Rusk for E44 Smearkase 348 Squares 346 Straws 344 Timbale 348 Toast 345 Toast, Deviled 345 Welsh Rarebit 346 Yorkshire Buck - .... 347 Chiclcen 135 AlaTaJrtare 142 Baked 139 Brown Fricassee of 137 Boned 136 Baked with Rice 136 Boiled 136 Broiled 139 Curry 142 Curry, Indian . . . 142 Dumplings for Fricasseed 137 Dressings '. 136 Fricassee 136 Fricasseed with Oysters 137 Fried in Batter . ' 139 Little Dish of Chicken 144 Legs, to Cook 144 Minced 144 Mushroom ' . . . 143 Mushroom, Chicken 143 MMylandjFried 138 Patties .143 Pie, Novelty 143 Pudding . , . . . . 141 Pot Fie, Southern Style 140 592 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Chicken (Continued), Pie with Oysters 140 Pot Pie 140 Pie 139 Roly Poly 141 Roast 135 Short Cake 140 Sauces or Gravies 136 Stock Jelly for Poultry or Meats . . 142 Scalloped . 143 Smothered 141 Stew, Brunswick 138 Stew, Creole Style 138 Stewed with Potatoes 138 Turn-overs 141 With Oysters, Boiled 136 Clams 92 Baked StuiFed 96 •' Clam Bake" (Inland) ,95 Chowder 92 Chowder, Coney Island with Thyme 93 Chowder, Canned ......... 93 Cream of 93 Deviled , 96 Fried 94 Fried Soft Shell 94 On Toast 97 Oysters and Clams, Cream of , ... 93 Pancakes 96 Roast in the Shell 96 Scalloped 94 Shells, To Open 92 Steamed 96 Stew 97 Cookies 398 Chocolate 400 Coriander 400 Cream 398 Date 400 Dominoes 399 Drop Ginger 404 Eggless 398 Frosted 400 Fruit 400 Graham 399 Ideal ._ 398 Lemon , '' > 399 Oatmeal 399 Peanut 400 Peerless 398 Seed 399 Soft Molasses 404 Spiced Molasses 404 Sugar S98 Cookies (Continued). Vinegar Molasses 404 Water 400 Cooking for Invalids 654 Apple Water . , 656 Bacon for Invalids 669 Baked Milk 566 Barley Water 556, 657 Beef Broth . 663 Beef juice 660, 661, 562 Beef Toast ......'..... 568 Beeftseak, Chopped, for Invalid , . 569 Boiled Ftour Gruel . 565 Brandy Cocoa . . .< : 559 Bread Panada. . 566 Broiled Squahs, Quail or Chicken . 6S8 'Broiled Sweetsbreads 668 Broths < 560 Buttermilk Whey ....;... 559 Calves' foot Jelly 566 Canned Grape-juice 557 Caudle 564 Chicken Broth 664 Chicken Jelly 667,668 Clam Broth 662 Clam Trapp* 662 ' Codfish, Creamed 569 Commeal Coffee . . ^ 556 Cracked Ice, To Keep 555 Cream Soup 563 Creamed Sweetbreads 668 Crust Coffee 556 Custard, Dyspeptic 571 Custard, Rice 671 "Don'ts" for the Sick Room ... 554 Drinks, Nourishing 556 EggCoffee ........... 660 Egg in Milk . , . . 670 E^Milk 659 Egg-Nog 559, 660 Egg on Toast 669, 670 Egg Wine ........... 559 Gluton Wafers . . . 570 Gruel, Arrowroot ......... 565 Gruels. . 564 Gruel, Cracker 665 Gruel, Milk. . , 666 Gruel, Oatmeal 665 Gruel, Onion 670 Indian-Meal Gruel 6.64 Jelly, Orange . 571 Jelly, Sago 671 Jelly, Tapioca ^671 lemonade, Flaxseed 660 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 693 Cooking for Invalids (Continued). liCmonade, Milk 660 Linseed Tea 657 Meat Jelly 567 Medicine Closet 573 Menu for Baby 672 Milk and Lime Water 658 Milk Porridge 666 Milk Punch 658 Mulled Buttermilk i . 659 Mulled Jelly 560 MulledWine 658 Mutton Broth 563 Mutton Jelly 567 Oatmeal Shrub ^657 ' Oysters, Grilled 669 Paulet a la Creme 564 Potatoes, Baked 570 Raisin Broth . 566 Raw Beef Sandwiches 568 Raw Beef, Scraped 568 Rennet Whey. 658 Rice Caudle 564 Rice Gruel 664 Rice Water 556 Soup, Cracker 666 Tamarind Water 656 Tea and Milk 557 Toast Water 556 Veal Broth 563 Wine Whey 558 Corn Cakes 312 Com Pop-overs 312 Custard Com 312 Johnny Cake, Golden 313 Johnny Cake, Sweetened ..... 313 Johnny Cake, Suet 313 Parker House, Com Cake 313 Crabs 97 Canapes of 99 Deviled 97 Fricassee of Oyster . 99 Fried Soft SbeUed • 93 Hot , 98 On Toast . 98 Oyster Crabs 99 Caster Crabs, Deviled in Shells . . 100 Oyster C^abs on Toast . . . . ^. , 100 Oyster Crab Pie '. . 100 Sauted in Butter 98 Scalloped 97 SoflShellala Maitred'Hotel. . . 99 Stewed 98 Crackers 318 Cornstarch 318 Graham 318 Graham Cream 318 Milk 318 Soda 318 Creams and Charlottes 419 Charlotte Russe 422 Charlotte Russe, Banana ^423 Charlotte Russe, Burnt Almond . . 423^ Charlotte Russe Cream 422 Charlotte Russe, Hard Times ... 422 Charlotte Russe Lemon ...... 423 Charlotte Russe, Orange 423 Charlotte Russe, Snow 423 ' Cream, Blackberry ........ 421 Cream, Chocolate . 421 Cream, Cocoanut 420 Cream, Coffee 420 Cream, Lemon 420 Cream, Orange 420 Cream, Strawberry Chocolate . . . 421 Cream, Whipped 419 Sponge, Lemon 420 Vanilla Snow feggs ........ 421 Croquettes 261 Baked 263 Canned Salmon 265 Chestnut, Cream 266 Chicken 262 Chicken and Calves' Brains .... 262 Chicken and Oyster 262 Clam 266 Cod-&h 265 Cod's Roe , 265 Corned Beef 264 Egg 268 Fish 265 Green Com 267 Ham 263 Liver 264 Lobster i . . . 266 Macaroni 267 Meat 263 Meat, Sauce for 263 Oyster 265 Parsnip 267 Potato ...... .^ 268 Rice 267 Rice and Meat ....,.,., 266 Rice, with Parmesan Sauce .... 267 Shad Roe 264 Sweet-bread 264 Sweet Potato 268 Veal 264 594 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Crullers 395 Crullers 395 Crullers, Cream 395 Custards 415 Banana . i 417 Baked 416 Boiled 416 Caramel 416 Coffee, Flavoring . 415 Cream , . . 416 Flavoring, Caramel ... .... 415 Flavoring, Coffee 415 French 416 French Tapioca 416 Orange. , . . . 417 Desserts 424 Aiiy NolUiig 429 Apple Float 430 Apple Trifle 430 Apple Whip 430 Banana Moonshine 431 Banana Tapioca 431 Banana Trifle 431 Blackberry Cream '. . 435 Blackberry Mush or Flummery • ., . 435 Blanc Mange, Almond ...... 425 Cakes, Pistache 427 Cheese Cakes, Potato ....... 428 Cherry Charlotte ,"" 439 Clabber 428 Coffee Cup Custard 425 Coffee Jelly with Sauce 426 Cream, Orange 434 Currant Snow 435 Custard, Chocolate 424 Custard, Ptunpkin 426 Dates and' Almonds ....... 438 Date Meringue 438 Dates or Figs, Steamed 438 Dessert Dsttes'. "... 438 Dessert, Vermicelli 427 Fig Custard 439 Fruit Desserts 429 Fruit Trifle . ^ 437 Gelatine, Strawberry 433 Grape Trifle 427 Lemon Fluff -. ... 434 Lemon Honey "427 Lemon' Rice .......... 425 Meringue 426 Meringue, Apple or Peach .... 430 Meringue, Banana 432 Meringue, Currailt 435 ^Oeringue, Date 438 j Desserts (Continued). Meringue, Peach . 481 Moonshine 429 Nut Cream 425 ' Oi'ange Cream • 434 Orange Float 434 Orange Jelly in Baskets 433 Orange Snowballs 434 Plum Custard 437 Plum Pudding 437 Prune Jelly 438 Prunes, Jellied 437 Pudding, Amber . ..,..'-... 428 Pudding, Cherry ....... i . 439 Pudding, Cold Peach 431 Pudding, Custard •-427 Puddings, Fruit Sauce for 435 Pudding Glace, Plum 427 Pudding, " My Own" 428 Pudding, Orange Ambrosia .... 433 Pudding, Pineapple Cream . . . '. 432 Pudding, Strawberry 432 Pudding, Strawberry Bread . . . .' 432 Pudding, Strawberry Puff . ... . . 432 Pudding, Tipsy 424 Quince, Snow 437 Raspberry Float . . . . 436 V Raspberry Meringue 436 Raspberry Trifle 436 Rice with Fig Sauce 425 Rice Meringue 424 Rhubarb Tapioca ........ 436 Rhubarb with Lemon Cream . . . 436 Sponge, Apple 430 Strawberries, Custard 433 Strawberries, Jellied 433 Syllabub. 429 Tapioca Fruit 436 Tapioca, Orange . 434 Tutti Frutti Apple 429 Doughnuts 395 ' Coffee 397 Cream 396 . Graham 397 Indian Meal 397 Love Knots 397 Molasses 397 Raised 396, 397 Without ShQitening . 396 Ducks 146 Boned . 147 Boiled 147 Broiled 147 Canvas-back 159 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 099 Ducks (Continued}. Deviled , . . Fricasseed Onion Dressing Onion Sauce . , Roast Sauce for Ducks or Game . . . . Sour (German) : With Turnips Wild Duck, Roast (Western Style). Dumplings Baked Apple ■JBerry Boiled Apple ■ ■ Dough Lemon Peach .... Plain .... Plum Preserve ..... PuffBalls Rice Rice Apple Strawberry Suet Eggs A la Mode . , ^, . . . . Brine for. . . Boiled in the Shell . . . . Baked Boiled with Cream Sauce , Baskets Breaded Beauregard Curried Columbus ....... Cuny, Soft Egg Capped > . . Custards, Breakfast . . . Deviled . . Egg Vermicelli Fricasseed . Fried Griddled . . Honeycomb ....... Ham and Eggs Baked . . In Scallop Shells . . . . Minced Nests Omelet, Foam On Rice ........ Omelet, Parsley Omelet, Plain Omelet, Oyster 147 147 147 146 146 146 147 147 160 338 338 340 339 346 340 339 338 339 340 340 340 340 339 338 218 225 218 219 220 221 222 226 225 223 222 224 224 224 224 224 223 220 220 225 225 221 225 223 226 225 226 226 227 Eggs (Continued). Omelet with Jelly 230 Omelet, Bread 227 Omelet, Cheese 227 " Omelet, with Corn 228 Omelet, Asparagus , . w 228 Omelet, Cabbage 228 Omelet, Onion 228 Omelet with Peas 228 Omelet, Spanish 229 Omelet, Apple . . . ; 229 Omelet, Peach 230 Omelet, Strawberry 230 Omelet, Sweet 230 Omelet, Rice 229 Omelet, Codfish 227 Omelet, Cauliflower 228 Omelet, Tomato 228 Omelet, Potato 228 Packing , 218 Poached .' . . 219 Pickled. 223 Poached, Spanish Style ...... 223 Scalloped. . 221 Scrambled 221 Scrambled, with Bacon 221 Steamed . . ; 220 Smothered 220 Stuffed 222 Salad 222 Spanish Scrambled 223 Sour (German Style) 224 With Gravy, Poached. 219 Entrees 349 Cauliflower ........... 351 Cheese 350 Chicken . 350 Chicken and Ham . 850 Ground Rice 362 Meat 350 Plain 351 Potato 351 Potato Souffle 352 Salmon 349 Souffle-Tin 352 Fish 103 Baiiied 106 Broiled 104 Baked and Stuffed 106 Bass Breaded 122 Bass, Pike and Pickerel 122 .Blue Fish Baked 122 ^^ Blue Fish Broiled 122 696 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Pish Brook Trout .' 125 Chowder, Fish , 125 Chowder, Salt Fish 119 Cod a la Flamande 118 Cod Fish. 117 Cod Fislt, Baked, Stuffed Il7 Cod Fish and Eggs 119 Cod Fish Balls and Bacon .... 120 Cod Fish, Boiled. 'll7 Cod Fish, Creamed 119 ',. Cod Creamed in a Potato Case . . . 118 .Cod's Roe 118 Cod's Roe Pudding 118 Cod Fish Stew 118 Dainty Baked Fish 107 Eels 126 Eels Baked 126 Eels Broiled 126 Eel Chowder 126 Eels, Fried 126 Eel Stew '. . 126 Fish Balls, Old-Fashioned .... 120 Fish, Breaded 120 Fish Croquettes, with Cream Sauce , 121 Fish Curry 121 Filleteof 107 Fish, Flaked 122 Fish, Force-Meat Balls 123 Fish Hash 121 Fish, Potted . . i 125 FishPufife 120 FishSoufH 123 Fish Stew 121 GraTy,.Plain 108 Haddock, Fillet of 123 Haddock, Smoked 124 Halibut 110 Halibut, Baked 110 Halibut, Boiled 110 Halibut, Fillet of Ill Halibut Steak, Baked 110 Halibut Steak, Cold Ill Halibut Steak, Fried ....... Ill Halibut Steak, Stuffed Ill How to Scale 103 Mackerel 109 Mackerel, Baked and Stuffed . . . 109' Mackerel, Boiled Fresh 109 Mackerel, Broiled Spanish ..... 109 Mackerel, Salt, Baked ...... 110 Mackerel, Salt, Broiled 109 Mackerel, Spiced 110 Pike, Creamed 122 Red Snapper, Baked ...... 108 Fish (Continued). % Red Snapper, Baked a la Creole.. . 109 Red Snapper, Boiled 108 Salmon 114 Salmon, B^ked ......... 116 Salmon, Soiled ......... II4 Salmon, Broiled ........ ^ 116 Salmon, Cai^ned, Plain ...... 117 Salmon, Deviled 117 Salmon, Fresh Fried 116 Salmon on Toast | 116 Salmon, Pickled 116 Salmon Pie 116 Salmon Saline 116 Salmon, St Croix 116 Sahnon Trout, Baked ...... 115 Salt Codfish 1 . . 118 Salt Cod, Broiled 119 Sardines, Broiled 125 Sardines, Deviled, on Toast .... 125 Shad 412 Shad, Baked and Stuffed . . i . . 114 Shadf Boned 112 Shad, Broiled 114 Shad, Planked 113 Shad Roe 112 Sheepshead 122 Shrimps, Creamed 124 Shrimps, Deviled 124 Shrimps on Toast 124 Smelts, Fried 124 Trout, Fried 123 Turbot a la Creme 124 White Fish, Baked ....... 120 White Fish, Planked 120 White Fishi_Salt ........ 121 Fritters 268 Apple , 274 Apricot 275 Banana 274 Beef ^. . . . 270 Bread 270,276 Calves' Brains . ^ ...... . 269 Cauliflower 272 Celery ./. 271 Clam 269 Coffee 275 Crab 269 Cream 276 Cream Puff 276 Cucumber . 271 Currant 272,273 Custard 270 Dessert 269 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 697 Pritters (Continued). Fish Roe 269 Fritter Batter 268 Fruit 272 Graham 270 Green Corn 271 Green Pea 271 Ham 270 Hominy 272 Jam 270 Orange 272 Oyster 269 Peach 273 Pear 274 Pineapple 273 Pork 270 Potato 270 &»nach 272 Strawberry 274 Simuner Squash 271 Tomato • • 270 Toi^ue 270 Frog's Legs 155 Fried 155 Fruit Salads 440 Apple 441 Banana ..... 440 French Banana 441 Fruit Gelatine 440 Orange 441 Peach 441 Strawberry 441 Sweet Orange 441 Game. 149 Bread Sauce.for 150 Dressing for Broiled 161 How to Cook 150 Geese 144 Apple Dressing or Stuffing .... 146 Apple Sauce for Meats 145 Deviled 146 Force Meat Balls. 146 Potato Stuffing 145 Roast 144 Stuffed with Sauerkraut 145 308 308 308 309 309 Wheat ' 309 Gems Apple Graham (with Baking Powder) Oatmeal' Rye Gingerbreads 401 Cake, Ginger Layer 402 Cakes, Ginger 403 Cream 401 Date 402 Fruit 402 Gems, Ginger 403 Gingerbread Card 402 Ginger Nuts 403 Maple Molasses 401 Old-fashioned 402 Poverty 402 Snaps 404 Snaps, Our -404 Soft 402 Sponge 401 Griddle dikes 314 A la Celestine 317 Buckwheat 314 Buckwheat, Quick 314 Crushed Wheat 316 Dessert 316 Flannel , 315 Flapjacks . 315 Graham, Quick 315 Graham, Raised 315 Grandma's 316 Oyster 316 Oyster, a Supper Dish ...... 316 Pancakes, wiA Sauce 317 Rye Sib Swedish 316 Wheat, Sweet Milk 316 Hare " 154 Hare, Stewed 154 Jugged ,„ . . . 154 Larded .^' . . . 164 Roast 154 Hashes, Cold Meats, etc 204 Apple Hash 210 Beef Balls 205 Beef Cakes 207 Beef Pie 205 Beef a la llamburg. 206 Beef, Cannelon of 205' Beef, Warmed Over with Potato Border 208 Beef Patties 205 Beef, Frizzled Corned ..."... 207 Beef, Hashed 209 Beef, Fricasseed ........ 2OS Bubble and Squeak ^0( Beef, Deviled 211 Beefsteak Fie 20g 598 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Hashes, Cold Meats, etc. (Continued). Beef Olives 207 Beef, Sliced, or other Mejit .... 206 Corned Beef Hash 209 Cottage Pie 208 Chicken, Saline of 217 Chicken Dumplings ....... 217 Chicken, Deviled 215 Fowli Fricassee of Cold Roast . . . 216 Fish Flakes., 216 Hash; with Bread 210 Hash, Creamed 210 Hash, Baked 209 Ham, Jellied 212 Ham and Tomatoes 213 Ham Patties 213 Ham, Deviled 213 Hash with Raw Potatoes 209 Ham on Potatoes 212 Ham, Scalloped 213 Ham and Macaroni 212 , Ham, Curried 212 Ham, Mince with Eggs 217 Loaves, Westphalia 212 Lamb Fie 214 ,Meat," Cold and Tomatoes 207 Mince, Missouri . 205 Meat, Hashed on Toast 210 Mutton, Hashed 214 Meat, DevUed Cold 217 Mutton, Haricot of 214 Mutton, Frizzled 214 Mutton or Lamb, Minced 213 Mutton, Cold Sliced 214 Noodles and Meat Stew ..... 214 Petits Pains 216 Salad, Luncheon (Boiled Meat) . . 217 Scallop, Western 207 ~ Stew.Irish 208 Tongue, Savory 214 Turbot a la Creme 216 Turkey', Scalloped 215 Veal Pates 210 Veal Cutlets, Cold 212 ' Veal ala Bombay 211 Veal^Deviled i .... 211 Veal a la Princess 211 Veal, Ragout of. ........ 212 Veal andHamPie 208 Veal, Minced 211 Veal Terrapin 215 Wonders 216 Ices and Ice Cream 507 Almond 514 Banana, Frozen 616 Ices and Ice Cream (Continncd). ~ Banana, Glace .~ . 618 ' Blackljerry Ice 521 ' Blueberry . 514 .' Caramel 613 Cheny 512 Cherries, Frozen 516 - Chenylce 520 Chestnut . . '. 512 Chocolate 512 Chocolate Moss . 612 Cocoanut .... 613 Cochineal Coloring . 508 Coffee . ; . 512 Colors for Ices . ._ . . . . . 507,508 Currant 614" Currant and Raspberry ...... 513 Currant Ice 620 Fried 511 Frozen Custard ......... 611 Frozen Fruits .......... 617 Grape Water Ice . 620 Ice Cream Pudding, Strawberry . . '618 Lemon 511 Lemon Ice 620 Moulding. ........... 609 Moulds forCreams 509 Orange 515 . Oranges, Frozen . . ^ 516 Orange Granito 617 Orange Ice 620 Packing ..... ....... 608 Peach .~. ...... 615 Peaches and Cream- ....... 617 Peaches, Frozen . 617 Peach Granito 517 Pineapple 513 Pineapple Ice 520 Pistachio Ice Cream . 512 Pudding, Frozen . ........ 519 Pudding, Nesselrode ....... 619 Punch Souffle . 623 Pudding, Tuscan 518 Raspberry 514 Raspberries, Frozen 519 Rice Pudding, Iced 519 ^ Sherbets 521 Sherbet, Apricot . ........ 621 Sherbet, Grape 522 Sherbet, Lemon ..<....... 521 Sherbet, Milk ..#'....... 522 Sherbet, Orange . • • 521 Sherbet, Pineapple . ........ 522 Sherbet, Strawberry . 521 Snow Cream .' ; > . . 511 ALPHABETICAL INDi:X. 599 Ices and Ice Cream (Continued) , Sorbets 522 Sorbet, Banana 523 Sorbet de Raisin 523 Soibet, Wild Cheny and Almond, . 523 Strawbeny 515 Strawbetnes, Frozen 515 Stlawbenylce 520 Tapioca Ice 521 Tutti-fnitti 515 Tutti-frutti Flavoring 610 Yanilla 511 Watermelon, Frozen 516 WithE^s 511 Without E|^ 511 Without Ice 509 Jellies 465 Apple 467 Blackberry 471 CalPs Boot 478 Cider 478 Cheny 474, 476 Coffee 476 Combination 474 Crabapple 470 Cranberry 471 Currant 470 Fancy 475 General Rule for . 466 Gooseberry 474 Green Grape 469 Huckleberry 474 Lemon 476 Orange 472, 475 Peach 473, 476 Pear 473 Pineapple 476 Plum" .472,473 Quince. . ._ 468 Quince and Apple 469 Raspberry 471 Ripe Grape 469 Rhubarb ........... 471, 472 Strawberry 473 Tomato 473 Wine 477. Kidneys 184 Baked 184 Stew on Toast 184 Lobsters 86 A la Bordeluse 88 AlaNeWburg 90 Baked 88 Lobsters (Continued). Boiled 86 Broiled 87 Canapes of 92 Chops 89 Chowder 90 Curried . . . . ; 91 Cutlets 9] Deviled 92 Farcie 91 Fricassee 89 Luncheon 90 Mayonnaise 90 Patties . , 92 Potted 90 Sauce 87 Scalloped u . . • 88 Stewed 91 To Cook Canned 89 Meats 161 Bacon 163 Beef 162 Broiling - . . . . 171 Glace, How to Use 170 Hints on Cooking ........ 169 Lamb, House 166 Mutton, The Best 164 Pork 166 Roasts 170 Salt 171 Tough 171 Tainted 172 Veal 163 Venison 16S Muffins 309 English 310 Plain 309 Raised 310 Mutton 190 Chops in Paper 193 Imitation Barbecue 195 Leg of Mutton, with Caper Sauce, Boiled 192 Leg of Mutton, Roasted, Stuffed . . 191 Lamb, Braised 193 Love in Disguise 194 Lamb and Green Peas 194 Lamb, Roast 193 Lamb Pie 194 Lamb, Grilled 193 Mutton Roast . 190 Pie 192 With Browned Potatoes 191 600 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Mutton (Continued). . Steak with Rice 193 With Oysters, Shoulder of . . . . . 191 With Tomato Pie 192 With' Potato Pie 192 Oysters 68 A la Newbuig ......... 70 A la Normandie 85 A la Poulette . , 79 Au Beurre Noir 81 Bisque .- 70 Baked • . . . 74 Broiled . 75 Cocktails 86 Creanjed 70 Curled 81 Croustade of ... , 82 Chowder 71 Curried , 76 Deviled 83 Egg Stew 70 Fried with Mushrooms 73 Fricassee of 75 Fried in Butter 73 Fried 71 Griddle Cakes 80 Griddled 77 Grilled . 77 Loaf 82 Macaroni and Oysters 75 Mushroom and Oyster Fates .... 78 Mushroom Ragout 80 On the Half-^hell . . '. 69 On Crackers ' 77 On Toast 76 .Oyster Pats 79 Oysters and Spaghetti ....'.. 76 Oyster Vol and Vent 76 . Oysters and Rice 76 Pates 78 Pie 80 Potpie 85 Pigs in Blankets, Little 84 Patties 77 Ke, Boston 81 Pies, Little 81 Rckled 83 Fanned 74 Pan Roast 74 Qaick Fried 73 Rarebit 85 Raw . »68 Restaurant, Fried 73 .Sausages 86 Smothered 86 Oysters (Continued). Short-cake . 86 Stewed with Celery 70 Sauce for Raw 69 Sante 85 Stew 70 Scalloped 71 Stew, Plain . . 70 Stew, Dry .- . 70 Scalloped with Hard Boiled' Eggs . 72 Steamed 74 Stuffed 84 Veal and Oyster Pie 88 Partridges 155 Roast 156 Pickles 492 Apples 503 - Apple Vinegar ^ . . . 501 Beet , . . 601, 506 Blackberries . . .'/ 605 Blackberries, Spiced 605 Cabbage 497, 506 Cabbage, Philadelphia Pepper , . . 497 Cauliflower 497 Celery Riots 601 Citron 503 Cherries 506 Cherry 500 Chow-chow, Beet '. , 500 Chow-chow, Mustard ■ . 499 Crabapples 604 Cucumber.' 493, 494 Cuciuubers, Brine for ...... 495 Cucumbers, Ripe 504 Cucumbers, Spiced, 496 Green Tomato. 496 Grapes, Spiced . '. / . . 505 Mangoes 497 Mixed Sweet 606 Mushroom , 600 Muskmelon 504 Mustard for Pickles 496 Mustard Fickle 499 Onion 498 Peaches and Apricote ..;.... 601 Peach Mangoes 498, 603 Peaches, Spiced . 603 Peaches, Sweet Pickled 602 Pears bOf Plums -.'505 Piccalilli 499 Pickles, To Keep Firm. . . . . .49? Pickles, To Keep Green 493 Quinces 606 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 601 Pickles (Continned). Ripe Tomato 496 Spiced Vinegar 496 String Beans 500 Sweet Com 500 Sweet Pickles 502 VinegarCelery 502 Vinegar Honey 602 Vinegar Potato 602 Vinegar, Onion 502 Watermelon 604 Pies and Pastry 353 Apple .' 357 Apple Meijngue 358 Apricot, Dried 361 Cheese Cakes 363 Oierry 361 Chocolate 359 Cocoanut Cheese Cakes 363 Cranberry Meringue 359 Cranberry Molasses 360 Custard, Plain 358 Custard Pumpkin 358 Eggless Pumpkin 358 Frosting 356-- Gooseberry Tart 360 ' Green Tomato 361 Harlequin Cream 358 How to Make ' . . . 355 Lemon and Molasses 357 T:>emon Meringue . . . ' 356 Lemon without Eggs 357 Maids of Honor 363 Meringue for Puddings or Kes . . . 360 Meringue Squash 359 Meringue Strawberry 361 Mincemeat, Extra 365 Mince, Mock . . . ; 356 Orange 357 Pastry, Glazing 356 Peach 360 PeachMeringue 360 Peach Custard 361 Pie Crust, Plain 355 Plain Pumpkin 359 Pork Apple 358 Ripe Tomato 361 Sliced Lemou 867 Squash ■ Tarts and Cheese Cakes . Tarts, Apple Tarts, Berry Tarts, Chocolate Tarts, Cocoanut Tarts, Grandmother's Apple , 359 361 362 362 362 362 362 Pies and Pastry (Continued). Tartlets, Cranberry 362 Tartlets, Green Gage . - 363 Tart Paste 362 Tarts, Raisin 363 Tart Shells 361 Xarts, Strawberry 362 Tarts, Whipped Cream ^862 Winter Apple 367 Pigeons 156 Bird's Nest 167 Pie 156 Roasted 166 Stewed 166 Poisons and Antidotes 574 Pork 195 Bacon and Beans 200 Brine, to Renew 203 Bologna Sausage 201 Baked Salt '199 Boiled Leg of 196 Bacon and Sweet Potatoes .... 199 Bacon, Creamed 199 Corned Beef, Ham, Shoulder of Mutton, Brine or Pickle for . . . 202 Cold Roast 196 Ham, Pickling 202 Ham, Boiled 197 Ham, Sugared 197 Ham Cutlets on Toast ...... 198 Ham, Deviled 197 Head Cheese 201 Ham, Potted 200 Liver and Bacon Balls 200 Pork and Apple Pie 199 Pig, Roast 195 Pot-pie Spare-rib 198 Pigs' Feet, Soused . .... . . 200 Ke 198 Roast Loin with Apple Stuffing , . 196 Roast Leg of 195 Sausage, To Keep 201 Salt Pork Stew 199 Spare-rib and Sauerkraut 198 Spare-ribs, Corned M9 Shoulder of, French Fashion. ... 195 Salt Polk in Batter. 199 Spare-rib Pot-pie 198 - re 201 Poultry 127 How to Drew 12* Glaze for .^ 12» 602 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Prairie Cbiclcen '. 159 Broiled 159 Roasted , . 159 Preserves and Jams 442 Apple Butter ....',..... 448 Apple and Cranberry 449 Apple Butter, The Best 448 ■ Apple Preserves «... 448 Apricot . . . .' '. 461 Barberry 459 Blackberries, Brandied ...... 458 Blackberry . 457 California Grape 450 Citron 449 Citron, Home-made . 464 Cherry 456 Cherries, Brandied . 456 Cooking Preserves in Syrup .... 443 Crabapple . . 449 Cranberry . . •^. 459 Cucumber 460 Currant .........;.. 459 Currant and Raisin . . . . . . '.'■. 460 Egg Plum 455 Elderberry 459 Fig . 461 Ginger Apples ...,..',... 448 Gooseberry ..,..> 458 Gooseberries, Dried ....... 464 Grape 449 Grape Butter 450 Grated Pineapple 453 Green Tomato . . 451 Huckleberries, Preserved ..... 459 Marmalade, Apple . . - 448 Marmalade, Cherry 456 Marmalade, Grape 449 Marmalade, Lemon 457 Marmalade, Orange 467 Marmalade, Pear ........ 446 Marmalade, Pineapple ...... 453 Marmalade, Plum ........ 455 Marmalade, Quince , 447 Marmalade, Rhubarb . 454 Marmalade, Tomato . .- 451 Muskmelon 452 Muskmelon Butter 453 Orange ...: 456 Orange Chips .......... 464 Peach Butter 444 Peaches ..... 443 Peaches, Brandied .......'. 444 Peaches, Dried ......... 463 Peaches, Figged 463 Preserves and Jams (Continued). Peach Leather ......... 463 Peach Marmalade ....... ^ 444 Pears 445 Pears, Brandied 445 Pears', Ginger ......... 445 Pears, Preserved. 445 Persimmon 462 Pineapple ■ • • 453 Pineapple Chips 464 Plum ,454 Plum Butter . , . . 4§5 . Plums, Brandied ' 456 Plums, Dried 463 Plum Tomato 450 Prune . , 461 Pumpkin. ._■ • . ...... 462 Pumpkin, Dried 464 Quinces 446 Quince and Sweet Apple Preserves . 447 Quince Cheese, or Jam .*. , . . . 447 Quince Preserves 446 Raisin 4^0, Raspberry . 458 Raspberries in Currant Jelly .... 458 Rhub&rb . 454 Rhubarb and Fig ........ 454 Rhubarb and Ginger ....... 454 Squash, Preserved ........ 462 Strawberry ........... 458 Sugar, To Clarify 443 Sweet Potato 460 Tomato ' 450 Tomato Butter 451 Tomato Figs . 451, 463 Tutti Frutti 460 Walnuts and Prunes, Preserved . . 461 Watermelon 452 Puddings ............ 405 Ancestral English Plum^. ..... 408 Aunt Mary's 412 , Blueberry Batter. . . . 411 Boiled Lemon . . '. . . . . . . . 413 Bread 411 Bread and Fruit . . .- 409 Brown Betty 413 Cabinet ....... . . ... 414 Chocolate ....'.....•• 414 Chocolate, Cornstarch ..;,.. 413 Cottage, Baked 411 Cottle, Steamed ........ 411 Danish Tapioca^ 4l2 English Plum , . . 409 Kve-Minute .......... 414 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 603 Puddings (Contintted). Fruit Bread 411 Graham Batter . .- 411 Grandmother's Bice 412 Green Com 414 Indian, Baked 410 l«mon, Cornstarch ....... 413 Meringue Bread . 411 Plain Batter 410 Pudding Sauces 406 Queen's 412 Quick Cracker 412 Roly-Poly 410 Rhubarb 414 Sauce, Bee-hive 406 Sauce, Brandy 408 Satice, Caramel 408 Sauce, Creamy 406 Sauce, Egg 408 Sauce, Foaming 408 Sauce, Gold (Hard) 406 Sauce, Hard 406 Sauce, Lemon 408 Sauce, Plain Cornstarch 408 Sauce, Plain F'ruit Pudding .... 401 Sweet Potato 414 Sauce, Silver (Hard) 406 Sauce, Wine 408 Strawberry 410 Thank^ving C .... 409 ■Whortleberry 410 Quail . .' 157 On Toast 157 - Pie 167 Roast, with Bread Sauce 167 Roast 157 Rabbits 152 Broiled 152 Fried 163 Pie 153 Panned • 153 Roasted . 162 Stew 153 With Onions 153 Remedial Foods 682 Rolls 305 Bread, Twist 307 Egg 305 , French, Raised 307 Parker House 306 Parker House, with Baking Powder 305 Vienna 306 Rusks 807 Dried 308 Rusk, Yeast 307 Salads .277 Anchovy 283 !■ Apple 291 Baked Bean 289 Bean 389 Beet 288 Cabbage a la Creme 284 Cabbage, Hotjwith Cooked Dressing 285 Canned Tomato 287 Carrot 289 Cauliflower 289 Celery 284 Chestnut 283 Chicken 279 Chicken, en Mayonnaise 280 Chicken, with Cooked Dressing . . 279 Chicken, with Cream Dressing . . . 280 Cold Pork' 281 Cold Slaw a la Creme 285 Corned Beef 280 Crab 283 Cream Dressing 293 Cucumber 290 Dandelion 290 Dressing, Mrs. Y's Potato 286 Dressings 291, 293 Duck 280 Egg . 283 Fish . '. 283 Ham .' ... 281 Hot Beet 288 Hot, Deviled Tomatoes 287 Lamb 281 Lemon Lettuce 286 Lettuce 286 Lettuce in Southern Style 286 Lobster 282 Mayonnaise Sauce 292 Mayonnaise Tomato 287 Mushroom 289 Onion . 290 Orange 291 Oyster and Celery 281 Potato 285 Potato with French Dressing ... 285 Salmon ............ 282 Sardine en Mayonnaise 283 Shrimp. 283 Slaw, Celeiy 284 Slaw, Hot 285 Spanish 289 604 Alphabetical index. SalaOs (Continued), Sweetbread 281- Tomato and Celeiy 287 Tomato, Cold Dressing 286 Tomato, Cooked Dressii^ 286 Tongue 281 Turkey 280 Veal 280 Vegetable . 288 Waldorf Celery 284 Walnut 284 Water-Cress 288 Sally Lunn ' . . 312 Raised 312 To Serve English Way 312 Sandwiches T ... 320 Breakfast 328 Chicken 328 Cream of Oyster 329 Deviled Ham 327 Dressing 327 Eggand Fish 328 Eggwiches 328 Game . 329 HamandE^ 328 HotOyster 329 Hot Roast Beef 329 Hot Sardine 329 Oyster 329 Sandwich Bread 327 Sardine 329 Tongue 328 Sauces and Gravies 319 ' Browned Flour 319 Glace, To Use 319 Gravy, Brown 321 Gravies, Browning for, ..... . 319 Gravies, Roux for, etc. . . . . ' . . 319 Oyster Sauce ........... 321 Sauce, Brown Butter 320 Sauce, Caper 321 ', Sauce, Celery 321 f Sauce, Cream 320 Sauce, Draw^ Butter 320 Sauce, Egg 321 Sauce, Lobster ......... 321 Sauce, Nasturtium 321 Sauce, White 320 Scallops 100 Fried 100 In Batter 101 In Shells .100 Scientific Hygienic Cooking . . 575 Shortcake 341 '. ApjJle „ ... 342 Chicago 343 Chicken • • 343 Cobbler, Peach , , ,,342 Cream, Strawberry ......... 341 Currant 342 Huckleberry 343 Jelly 342 Lemon .- 342 Peach 342 Pineapple 342 Quick Strawberry 341 Rhubarb . . . ,. S42 ■ Strawberry ........... 341 Sweet . ^43 Soups, How Prepared 31 Almond, with Rice 6S Asparagus 6] Asparagus Consomme ........ 61 Beef 37,3a Bouillon 37 Broth, Scotch Mutton 43 Beef, Gumbo ' . . 4G Bean, without Meat 50 Bonne Femme . . . . 42 Brown Veal 42 Brown Rabbit 64 Bean and Tomato 49 Baked Bean 49 Black Beau 49 Bean, with Croutons 50 Bean and Com 48 Bean 49 Bouille 67 Bean Porridge 48, 49 Bouquet of Herbs 35 Catsups' 35 Cream of Barley 67 Caramel 34 Curry Balls '...;.. 36 Croutons (or Fried Crusts) .... 36 Cabbage.Beef 39 Chicken Com 44 Cuiry Powder .....'; 35 Chicken ' 44 Consomme, with Egg Dumplings . 42 Chicken Vegetable ........ 44 Clams, Bisque of, with Profiteroles . 57 Chicken or Turkey 45 Chicken Gumbo 46 Cheese 67 Cream of Turnip 65 Cream of Pea 6f ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 60S Soups (Continued). Chestnut 66 Canned Com , . . . • 66 Cream of Com . . 64 Celeiy Vinegar 35 Celery, Puree of 61 Cream of Spinach 66 Cauliflower 66 Cream of Onion 63 Cabbage (Meatless) 62 Cat-fish - 58 Clams, Bisque of 56 Cream, Vegetable 63 Celery, Oyster 65 Clam Bouillon 56 Dried Green Pea 61 Dumplings fo^ Soup 37 Egg Balls ^r Quenelles) 36 Egg Dumplings 37 Economical 47 Economical Celery 62 French Beef 39 Family 40 Fish Cream 58 ' Flounders, Bisque of 58 Frogs' Legs 54 Giblet 46 Gumbo 46 Gumbo, with Crabs 47 Game, Puree of 53 Gumbo Filee 47 Game 64 Green Turtle a la Creole 69 Green Pea i 64 Green Pea without Meat 61 Game Soups ' . . . . 63 Green Turtle 68 Herb Spirit 35 Ham Bone 48 Hasty, 52 Julienne . 47 Lobster 67 Lamb Broth 44 I.obster Bisque ......... 67 Liebig's Rice 66 Liebig Tomato 60 Little Neck Clam 66 Mock Oyster 63 Macaroni (Veal) 62 Macaroni or Vermicelli 60 Meat Balls; Forced 36 Marrow Dumpling 40 Mullagatawny 46 Mutton with Cheese Dumplings . . 43 Mutton Broth 44 Soups (Continued). Meat Vegetable . 47 Mutton Turnip 43 Mutton 43 Mock Turtle, Plain 41 Mock Turtle ; 41 Noodle 39 . Noodles 37 Neapolitan 62 Oyster Cream (Rich) 55 Oatmeal, Rolled 35 Oyster (Plain) . .^ 55 Ox-Tail 52 Okra 65 Onion or, Mock Oyster 63 Oyster .....; 65 Caster Bouillon 56 Piquant Pea 61 Puree 34 Pea .... 51 Puree of Turnips a I'Espagnol ... 39 Potato Dumplings 37 Pepper Pot 43 Puree of Cauliflower 48 Pistachio 67 Potato Cream 64 Puree, Green Pea 51 Palestine 66 Potato 64 Potage a la Crecy 62 Potato Onion 63 Riple 40 Rice a la Creme 66 Rice Meat 63 Rice Celery . 61 Squirrel 54 Soup Hints '33 Soup Stock . 32 Soup Stock, Economical ..... 33 Soup Thickening 33 5 Soup Clarifying 35 Soup and Gravies, Coloring for . . 34 Soup Serred Cold . 37 Soup, Glacfe 40 Summer Vegetable 47 Spanish Bean 49 Split Pea 50 * Soup, Flavoring for . 45 Turkey 45 Tomato Bisque 59 Tapioca 'Veal 42 Tomato 60 Tomato Meat 61 Tomato Bean 60 Tomato Rice 60 606 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Soups (Continued). Venison 55 Vegetable Chowder . 62 Vegetable, Meatless 59 Veal 41 Ve^, Plain 42 ^Vegetable 47 Vermicelli 52 White Rabbit 53 Squirrels 154 Ke *. .155 Pot-pie 155 Stew. 154 Table Drinks 524 Blackberry Brandy 540 Blackbeny Wine 640 Cafe a la Delmonico , 527 Cafe-au-Lait i 526 Champagn'e Cider 539 Cherry Water 537 Chickory in X^offee 524 Chocolate 530 Chocolate, Vienna ,,..;... 631 Cocoa 531 Cocoa,] Iced 631 Coffee, Boiled 626 Coffee, Creamed 527 Coffee, Egg 627 Coffee, Dripped 524 Coffee, How to Pour 524 Coffee, Iced . 526 Coffee, Meringued 526 Coffee, Steamed 525 Coffee, Sweet Com 526 Coffee, Syrup of 527 Cranberry Water ^ 657 Cream, Substitute for 626 Currant Shrub 536 Currant Syrup . . . ^ 637 Fruit Sherbet 536 Fruit Punches (Temperance) . . . 538 Fruit Syrups 536 Gingerade .' 633 Ginger Beer ; 633 Gingerette 634 Hop Beer 534 Koumis 634 Lemonade ......... 532, 633 Mead^ . ■ . (538 Mead, Sarsaparilla , 639 Milk Shake , 540 Milk, Sterilizing - 639 Oatmeal, Harvest Drink . . . . . 640 Orangeade ' . . .533 Table Drinks (Continued). Punch, Fruit 638 Punch, Leinon ...;..... 638 Punch, Orange 538 Punch, Pineapple 638 Raspberry Cordial . , 635 Raspberry Vinegar-. 636 Root Beer 634 Soda Water. 688 Spruce Beer .' 534 Strawberry Vinegar 536 Sweet Cider, To Keep .539 Tea ." 627, 529 Terrapin 101 Diamond Back, Stewed 102 Stewed with Cream . 101 Toasts . ." 330 Baked Milk 331 Chicken or Turkey 332 Cream 330 Cream, with Poached Eggs .... 330 Dutch 331 French 331 Mock Cream 332 " Parisian 332 " Scotch 331 Snowflake 332 iVeal 332 Tripe 182 A la Newburg 183 Broiled 182 Fricasseed Tripe 183 Fried in Batter 183 In Cream 183 Lyonnaise Tripe 183 Kckled 183 Roast 183 To Buy . . 182 Turkey 130 Braised 134 Boned, Roasted 133 Boiled 133 Giblet Gravy 130 Giblet Dressing 131 How to Cook 134 Hish 135 " Jellied 134 Moulded 136 Old-fashioned Stuffing for .... 131 Rsgout 134 Roast . . ; .130 Scalloped . . '. 134 Sausage Dressing for Turkey . . . 131 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 607 Turkey (Continued). Stewed with Tomato 138 Turkey Pie 135 With Chestnut Stuffing. ..... 131 With Oyster Dressing *'. 130 Turtle 102 Baked 102 Soup 102 Veal 184 Baked Fillet of 186 Braised . . . . 186 Calf s Head Boiled 188 CalPs Head Fried 188 CalPs Head Cheese 189 Chestnut Stuffing 185 Call's Brains Boiled 189 CalPs Liver, Plain 190 Calfs Liver and Bacon 189 CalPs Liver Fricasseed ...... 189 Cutlets (breaded) ........ 187 Cutlets with Mushrooms 187 CalPs Head Stewed 188 Force Meat 185 Ham and Liver .' 189 Mock Duck 187 Pot Pie Crust 186 Pot Pie 186 Roast Breast of 185 Roast Loin of 186 Stewed Breast of . 185 Sweetbreads, Creamed 190 Sweetbreads, To Prepare 190 Sweetbreads in Jelly 190 Stuffing 184 Stew 186 Terrapin, Mock 190 Veal Head Cheese 188 Vegetables' 231 Apples, Fried 260 Apples, Fried Evaporated ..... 260 Aspaz!^^ 247 Asparagus on Toast 248 Asparagus, To Boil . .• . y. . . 247 Beans 244 Beans, Boston Baked . 245 Beans, Canned String. 244 Beans, Lima 245 Beans, Shelled Green 245 Beans, String 244 Beets a la Creme 258 Beets, Baked 268 Beets, Boiled 257 Beet Greens 260 Beets, Young ? . . . . 257 Vegetables (Continued). Bread Served for a Vegetable, Fried 260 Brussels Spyouts 259 Cabbage 242 Cabbage, Boiled 243 Carrots 250 Carrots, Caramel 250 Carrots, Creamed ........ 250 Carrots, Fried 250 Cauliflower, Boiled 243 Cauliflower inT^ream 243 Cauliflower with Cheese 243 Celery 249 Celery, Creamed 250 Chips, Saratoga 235 Chow Waw, a Chinese Dish .... 255 Cora and Tomatoes, Scalloped Green 238 Com, Baked 237 ' Com, Baked Canned 237 Com, Boiled a la Oriental 237 Com, Boiled Green 237 Com Chowder 239 Com CoUops 239 Com, Dried 240 Com, Escalloped 237 Com for Winter • 239 Com, Fried 237 Com, Green 237 Com or Hominy, Hulled 240 Cora-Oysters 239 Com, Stewed 238 Cucumbers 251 Cucumbers, Boiled ... .^ ... . 251 Cucumbers, Fried 252 Cucumbers, Raw 252 Cucumbers, Stewed 251 Cucumber Toast . ........ 252 Dandelion Greens, Grandmother's . 259 Egg-plant 252 Egg-plant, Fried 252 Egg-plant, Stewed Creole Method . 263 Egg-plant, Stuffed . 262 Greens 259 Green Com Pudding 239 Green Peas, Stewed 243 Green Peas with Bacon ... . . . 244 Griddle Cakes, Green Com .... 239 Hominy, Boiled 240 Hubbard Squash, Baked ...... 257 Lettuce 256 X^ettuce a la Creme 256 Lettuce, Boiled 256 Lettuce, Wilted 259 Lima Beans ^ . . 245 Lima Beanii and Com ...... 238 ALPHABETICAL' INDEX. Vegetables (Continued). Macaroni 2S3 Macaroni and Cheese 254 , Macaroni Hints 254 Miscellaneous Vegetable^ ..... 258 Mushrooms . . 250 Mushrooms, Creamed ...... 251 Mushrooms, Escalloped. ..... 251 Mushrooms, Stewed 251 Okra 258 Okra, Creamed T^ . . . 258 Okra Gumbo, Creole Style .... 258 Onions 248 Onions, Boiled .......... 248 Onions, Creamed . 249 Onions, Escalloped 249 Oysters, Com 239 Parsnips ...'./ 246 Parsnips, Breaded 246 Parsnips, Browned 246 Parsnips, Creamed 246 Parsnips, Fried - 246 Parsnips, in Batter 246 Peas 243 Peas, Boiled . 243 Peas, Creamed ....... ^ . 244 < Peas, Stewed with Lamb 244 Peppers, Stuffed Green . . . *t . . 258 Potatoes 233 . Potatoes a la Custard . 234 Potatoes and Cream, New. .... 235 Potatoes and Peas, New 235 Potatoes, Baked 233 Potatoes, Boiled 234 Potatoes, Browned 234 Potato Cakes, Sweet 2S7 Potatoes, Custard 236 Potatoes, Fretich Fried 236 Potatoes, Fried New 235 Potato Ribbons 236 Potato Rings 236 Potato Snow' 235 Potatoes, Steamed 234 Potatoes, Texas 236 Potatoes, Whipped 234 Pudding, Green Com ....... 239 Raw Tomatoes, To Serve ..... 242 Rice 264 , Rice and Codfish. 255 Rice and Cheese. ...■*... 265 Rice, Baked 255 Rice, Boiled 264 Rice, Boiled Syrian Fashion . . . . 254 1 Vegetables (Continued). Rice Patties 26ft Salsify, Fried 258 Salsify, or VegeUble Oyster .... 268 Saratoga Chips 236 Sauerkraut 242 Sauerkraut, Boiled . . ' 243 Sauerkraut and Sausage 242 Spinach 265 Spinach m la Creme 256 Spinach on Toast 265 Spinach, Plain 256 Spinach, with Drawn Butter .... 256 Squash. 257 - Squash a la Creme 257 Squash, Baked Winter ...... 257 Squash L'Elegante 257 Succotash 238 Sweet Potatoes, Boiled or Steained . 236 Sweet Potatoes, Browned.. .... 2S6 Tomatoes 241 Tomatoes, Baked 241 Tomatoes, Canned 241 Tomatoes, Escalloped 241 Tomatoes, To Peel 241 Tomatoes, Stewed 241 Truffles 253 Truffles, Italian Style 253 Tumips . 246 Tumips, Boiled Whole ...... 246 Turnips, Browned 247 Tumips, Creamed 247 Tumips, Diced 247 Tumips, in White Sauce 247 Vegetables, Canned 232 Vegetable Turkey 260 Vegetables, Seasoi^ng ...... 231 Water-Cress, Fresh. . 259 Winter Succotash ". 239 Water-Cress, Stewed 269 Venison . „ ' 161 Haunch or Saddle of 151 Larded Haunch of 162 Leg of 152 Waffles 310 Commeal 814 Quick 311 Raised 311 Woodcock . 158 Boiled 163 On Toast 168 „.*#- #