iSIA ^ WiV^<2ft7M'M^ ivfim'iwmmi>iWi-Ki!isvrmxim'>p>xfii& . tti-nir-'Ui \i-'i CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY THE WASON CHINESE COLLECTION Cornell University Library DS 895.F75D63 Journal of a blockaded resident in North 3 1924 023 514 452 Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924023514452 JOURNAL OF A BLOCKADED RESIDENT IN NORTH FORMOSA, DTTKINO THE FRINCO-CHINESE WAR, 1884-5. JOHN DODD, (PRINT RD FOE PEIVATE CIECULATION.) HOI^rGKONG : PRINTED AT THE •' DAILY PKESS " OFFICE. 1888. EDITOR'S PREFACE. Acceding to the repeated request of nimrerous friends, wto' perhaps are more competent to correctly appraise its value than the modest author, Mr. Dodd has consented to republish in book form (for private circulation) his Journal of Events during the Blockade of Formosa by the Trench fleet in^l884-85i Originally the Journal was published at intervals in the Honghong Daily Press, in whose columns it formed a very attractive feature during the Franco-Chinese hostilities, and was read with keen interest in that time of excitement. Mr. Dodd's graphic and occasionally humorous sketches of theperils, the worries, and the deprivations of the interned foreign residents of Tamsui through the bombardment and subsequent blockade by Admiral Courbet's fleet, excited much sympathy in Hongkong and the Treaty Ports during those memorable months, and I feel confident the narrative will be re-perused with scarcely less eagerness by his friends than when first penned. The descriptions of Kelung and the adjoining country, and of Camphor districts, which at my suggestion have been added as sup- plementary chapters, are so vividly realistic that the reader will, I doubt not, join in the hope that at some future but not distant date, in more leisure moments, the author wiU give to the world the benefit of his long and iatimate connection with North For- mosa, the results of his close observations as an explorer and whilom sportsman, in a comprehensive work dealing with the topography, ethnography, zoology, and geology of the " beautiful island." To such a task no one perhaps could bring so wide an experience and so large a fund of information on the subject, while to do justice to it would with him, after such a lengthy residence in the island, be a labour of love. R. Chattbeton Wilcox. Hongkong, September, 1888. ERRATA, 3 5 line 28 For " her size " read " the Villars' size " 7 ,. 23 >i " their wives " 33 "the wife of one of them 40 »> 4 „ " Hooljei " »» " Twatutia " 48 „ 7 1) " sick boy man " „ " Sick Bay man " 51 „ 17 „ " boat " „ " boats " 89 jj 17 jj ■■K&-mo-lau" ,j " Ka-mo-Ian " 100 „ 15 j> " Namkaa " „ " Namkan " 107 jj 6 j^ " TA-tem " »» " Tfi-tun" 119 ,j 17 'r " Tohiu Ten-kat ' 3 33 " Tchui Ten-kah " 178 ,^ 21 13 " south-easterly " 33 " north-east 'rly " 183 ,j 9 13 " Kiver Eock " ,, " Euin Eoek " 188 „ 25 & 28 >S " Tridacna " „ " Tridacna " 195 ,, 28 ,3 •' coal " 33 " coral " 203 4 1* " annnal flowers " J, " animal flowers " 206 10 J3 '' Pachena " 33 '■ Patchina " JOURML OF A BLOCKADED RESIDENT IN NORTH FORMOSA, ©([JBIKG THE FRANCO-CHINESE WAR; 1884-5. o;®io BaMBARDMENT' OF' KELUNG. Tamsui, 11th. August, 1884. Events which have occurred lately in this corner of the world aa^II bring, the name of Kelnng more pro- minently before the public than on previous occasions, when a casual notice in the papers informed readers that a typhoon had visited the place, an earthquake had been- felt, a tidal wave had been experienced, a colliery had been started, and mining on foreign principles had been introduced, &c., &c.; but never since the opening- of the Customs in 1864, the visit of a tidal wave in 1867, the disastrous typhoon in 1871, the Japanese scare in; 1874, has anything exercised the minds of native and foreign residents so much as the bombardment of Kelung by the French on the morning of the 5th of August, IS 84. For some time past the papers have hinted that, in the event of the French demands on China not being acceded to, Kelung or. some part of Formosa would be held by them as a material guarantee against the pay- ment of an indemnity to be named by them. [ 4 ] It is not two months since the French cruiser VoUa, Captain Fournier, arrived in the bay of Kelung, and as there appeared to be some delay in obtaining supplies of coal, &c., the gallant Captain gave the officials notice that unless supplies were forthcoming promptly, he would open fire on the forts. This threat had the de- sired effect, and as coals were sent off the trouble ended, and the Volta flitted northward. Captain Fournier ap- pearing later on as a diplomat and Treaty maker. This little episode was very instructive, and seemed to open the eyes of the military mandarins to the fact that there was a possibility, not very remote, of Kelung becoming the seat of war in the island, and that a French invasion might take place at no distant date. At Kelung there is a new fort, which has cost the Government an enormous sum of money ; it has taken years to build, and is, I believe, armed with Krupp guns. This fort commands the entrance of the harbour, and looks north- east ; the position is exposed and undesirable in many ways, but not in the opinion of the Chinese. However, this was the fort, the stronghold, the terror to the outer barbarians ; it was supposed that any man-of-war ap- pearing in front thereof would be sunk, and that Kelung was safe from foreign attack. The fort was manned by about 400 men — so Chinese say — and in the neigh- bourhood of Kelung there were at about this period perhaps 1,000 soldiers. The Volta having left, matters remained quiet for some time afterwards ; pi'eparations were of course being made by the military authorities, surmises of all kinds were being indulged in by the foreign residents and others connected with the trade of the place, when suddenly the French gunboat Parseval made her appearance on the scene. At about this time news had been received from the North that Liu Ming- chuau. Imperial Commissioner, had been sent from Pe- king to Formosa, especially to look after Coast defences, &c., and was daily expected. On his arrival the usual [ 5 1 military demonstrations were made; the soldiery were drawn up on tlie beach near the fort, every soldier carry- ing apparently a flag, as is their custom, and those armed with rifles discharged them in honour of the illustrious General, the man entrusted by the powers that be in the North with the safeguarding of Formosa. Whilst all this was passing the, Gallic mind became so excited that the French Commander gave the order to clear the decks for action, fancying, it is supposed, that the Chinese on shore were challenging them to fight and were about to take the initiative. They discovered their mistake in time — fortunately for foreigners on shore — and soon all was peace and calm again. Liu landed, examined the fort, inspected the men, found fault with the General in charge — rumour states — took certain military notes, no doubt, and then made his way over the hills and down the rapids, to the new city of Tai Peh Fu situated close to the towns of Banca and Twatutia, at which latter place all the foreign trade in the North, with the excep- tion of coal, is carried on. From Tai Peh Fu the ener- getic old General went down the Tamsui river to Hiibei, the anchorage commonly called Tamsui. His zuovements were rapid ; he visited the various erections called forts in the vicinity, and the result must have been heart- breaking, after perhaps inspecting the forts in the North. In the meantime the corvette Pillars arrived at Kelung, and shortly afterwards the fiery little Parseval left for parts unknown. The arrival of a vessel of her size created almost' a panic. Chinese shop-keepers and others talked of clearing out, and foreign residents were becoming rather anxious. H.B.M.'s Consul went round to Kelung to confer with the Chinese Authorities as well as the Commander of the ViUars, and satisfactory arrange- ments, it is understood, were made lor the safety of foreigners in the event of hostilities breaking out. Just as these events were occurring, the German steamer JFelle arrived with a cargo of amnmnition, torpedoes, [ '-^^ ] "tclegra])!! wire, &c. The French Conimiiu'ter refasHsrl, it is said, to allow such material to he iaiulcd. The Chinese made preparations for discharging, but feariug n collision with the Villars, they ordered the IFelJe round to Tamsni, where, on arrival, she discharged all -\var materiiii into Chinese transport No. 13 and into junks. For the benefit of tliose wlio have not studied the map of Formosa it will be as well to state tliat Ke- Inng is on the north-east end of the island and Tamsui on the nortli-west, abont 30 to 32 mdes by sea apart. The'foregoing brings us up, as far our memory goes, to tlie 30th tTu'ly, when the guriboat CockchriJ'er came into Tamsui, At the sight of lier foreigners felt more secure, and as things have turned out, she has been of ■great use. On the 2nd instant, I tliinlc it was, H.B.M.'s Consul went roimd in the gunboat to Kelung, returning the same day to Tamsui. Matters had developed no further, but Chinese were v-ery busy massing troops there, evidently expecting that before long trouble would arise. On the 'evening of the 4th instant letters were sent over to Twatutia from Kelung, informing residents there that the French frigate La Galissoniere and gm\- boat Lutin had arrived, making three French men-of- war in port. The Admiral, it appears, lost no time in notifying to the Chinese Aauthorities his intentions, viz., that unless they delivered up Kelung to him he would open fire on them at 8 a.m. on the following mornino-, tlie 5th inst. The Chinese refusing to hand over the place, the three men-of-war commenced operations precisely at 8 a.m. A deafening cannonade took place and eye-witnesses state that the French gunners fired' with excellent precision, not a shot missing its mark. The Chinese in the fort discharged their guns at the La Galissoniere and the shots struck — ^just scraping off the paint, as one informant puts it — whereas others say that they took effect. The Chinese fought their gu!is pluckily, but the terrible fire from the ships and 1 7 ] fhe hailstorm of bullets from the mitrailleuses fixed in the tops soon silenced the large fort, and in a very short time it was a mass of ruins. The range is said to have been 1,000 yards. It is impossible to say how many Chinese were killed, the number being put down at from 50 to over 200, the latter figure being given by a Chiuainan in tihe Government service. The Preneh destroyed also one or two small fortifications on the hills, and the Lut'm made good practise at an old fort on the opposite side of the bay where Avere a number of soldiers stationed. No casualties are reported on board the men-of-war. After the bombardment a body of marines landed and planted the tricolour on the ruins ■of the fort. K«lung City, situated at the end of the bay, was not molested, and the inhabitants were infor- med that action would only be taken against the forts. Previous to the bombardment Kelung residents took refuge on board the German schooner Johann Carl, whence they were removed by the launch Alice to the gunboat Cocfkchafer, which had followed the Alice round from Tamsui as soon as the water on the bar would enable her to do so. Two of the Kelung residents and their wives were brought round to Tamsui ; the only people remaining there when the gunboat left were Messrs. Brownlow and Grant, of the Customs Service. On the eve of the bombardment the Twatutia foreign residents, who live ten miles up the river and away from the protecting influence of the gunboat, left on the morning of the .5th in native boats for the anchorage to consult with the Consul about measures to be taken for their safety. The Consul, relying implicitly on the Chinese military authorities for protection, recommended a return. This advice was not considered sound enough, and when further complications took place at Kelung on the following day, Twatutia was decidedly considered by every one an unsafe place to remain at. The tea trade at this place is almost at a standstill, and { 8 ] the wealthy inhabitants are leaving in numbers for the mainland. The foreign hongs have each five Chinese soldiers to protect them against robbers, and other precautions are being taken by the townspeople for the protection of property. On hearing of the intended bombardment the great Liu Ming-chuan hurried overland to Kelung and took charge of the troops. On the 6th instant it was reported that the French had landed 200 marines, and had mar- ched towards Kelung City with the view of taking the barracks occupied by General Tsao. Guns were put into pinnaces, and fire was opened on the walled barracks. All reports about this operation being so conflicting, it is difficult to know what to believe. It would appear that the French took the barracks, and immediately began to make arrangements for camping. The Chinese from the neighbouring hills overlooking the camp, see- ing that the enemy's force was small, decided to retake the barracks. They fired down on the French from the hills, and a large body surrounded the barracks ; the French had therefore to retire. In this engagement Chinese officials reported that over 100 Frenchmen were killed and wounded. More details were afterwards given, and it was confidently stated that 15 men were killed and 65 wounded, 1 prisoner, 4 cannon, and stan- dards taken. As all communication by land was stop- ped we were obliged to believe these Chinese stories. It is now said that at most 3 were killed and 6 wounded. The prisoner referred to was hurried over the hills to Banca, but being badly wounded he died on the road. The latest from Kelung is that only 1 man was killed and 6 wounded in the attack on the barracks. The next piece of news received here was that Liu Ming- chuan, thinking that the F'rench were anxious to become owners of the Government Colliery, which is situated in Coal Harbour, some six miles to the east of Kelung, had ordered several cases of kerosine to be poured over the [ 9 ] coal heaps and set fire to the whole stock of coal there; also that he had ordered the plant and machinery to be destroyed. Nothing of very great importance has lately occurred ; this place is quieter and one or two people have gone round in the Welle to Kelung. The steamer Will o' the Wisp from Wenchow looked in on the 9th for coals ; coals stored in the harbour might have been supplied her — there was no objection on the part of the French — ^but not a boat or coolie was obtainable, so she has come round here. She reports that only the Galis- soniere was in port, the Villars and Lutin having left some days ago, for Foochow, it is supposed. It is im- possible to say what the next move on the part of the French will be, the most curious part of it being that the Hailoong from the mainland on the 7th reported all quiet there — two days after the action at Kelung. At the entrance of the Tamsui river, the Chinese have laid down six torpedoes in the shape of a semi- circle on the inside of the bar. When the Fokien and Welle went out and the Hailoong came in on the 9th inst., the steamers were piloted past the torpedoes by the Chinaman who laid them down. All is quiet in Tamsui up to date. The foregoing narrative of events is written from Tamsui — gleanings from all sources, some not very reliable. Tamsui, 14th August, 1884. Since the Hailoong left, nothing very exciting has oc- curred either at Kelung, Twatutia, or Tamsui. Many of the reports sent from Kelung to Tamsui by Chinese officials — one or two emanating from the great Liu Ming- chuan in command of the forces there — have been found to be fabrications, especially about the attack on the barracks, and the loss sustained by the French on that occasion. Rumour now states that only 120 marines and sailors were landed, that one man was shot dead, 6 were wounded and one besides fatally wounded was atkcn prisoner^ dying on the road to Banca. It would ■[ 10 ] appear therefore that the loss on the part of the French was very trivial. A late pieee of nevi^s received from Ivelimg is that several Chinese dressed as peasants en- deavoured to remove the Krupp guns from the big fort, covering them with mats. We can scarcely credit this, hut if t]-ue, there A^-ill he no niecessaty to attempt any- ;thing of the .sort again, as we understand — from the //■sua/ //n reliable source — ^that the guns have been since utterly destroyed by the French with dynamite or some such explosive. Yesterday messengers from K«lung re- .jjorted that two moue men-of-war had arrived, making tivo in all, one said to contain soldiers. A circular issued by Consul Frater on tlie 11th instant would lead one to suppose tliat spmething more than ordinary was contemplated by the French Admiral, or that he had suddenly thought it necessary to waive all responsibility in the matter of protection to Kelung foreign residents, in the event of more extensive operations becoming ne- cessary. The following is the circular referred to : — (■Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tatmsui, 11th August, 1884. Thenindersig-ned las, in consequence of tlie receipt of a coni- muiiicalion from the Bear- Admiral in command of the French Naval I'orces at KeLang-, hevehy to declare that British subjects returning' to, or remaining at, Kelung while affairs are unsettled must do so at their own risk. A Pratii-.b, H.B.M.'s Oonsnl, offieintiag at Tamsui- From the date of the bombardment, .5th inst., to the l.'ith inst., business at Twatutia, the tea mart ten miles up .the river, was almost suspended. Merchants }an up for an hour or two every other day or so m INlessrs. D. Lapraik & Co.'s launch, bought a little tea, coaxed the compradoi^es and others into the belief that there would be no trouble at Twatutia, &c., and then retired. News from Kelung was more re-assuring, everything was comparatively quiet, the only difficulty 1 11 ] ihevG .appearing to be the want of coolies and boats to load the vessels in port with coals. We were assured Tdv the British Consul that the Customs had been re- opened, that neither the French nor Chinese were .standing "in the way of trade, tliat coal Avas obtainable, &c., &c. It appears, however, that sTiips in ]>ort-are doing nothiiTg ilay after day for want of coolies and "boats and coal itself. Dollars to pay for coa'ls could not be sent to Kelung overland, for fear of robbers j .foreigners are not allowed to go or remain there ex- cepting at their own risk, tlie result being that the trade of Kelung is virtually stopped. Who will have to pay claims for losses sustained by charterers of vessels Temains to be seen later on ! On the 12th inst. it was considered safe to reside at Twatutia, and accordingly the Chaszee element returned and resumed operations in tea. Every foreign liong flies a house flag daily. Five Chinese soldiers keep guard in every foreign tea hong, and very quiet, well disposed fellows they are. They are placed there to protect foreign property from attack by looters, but "we would rather see a few Jacks or ]Marines up here. As we close everything seems quiet, but as the French have received reinforcements, we may hear at any mo- ment of some fresh move on their part. It is reported that Liu Ming-chuan is living in a small village called Lok Taw, this side of the Ivelung hills, close to the rapids. Rumour says that a few days ago Admiral Lespes sent word to him that he was going to recom- mence operations. Liu sent word back an answer equivalent to " go ahead." If the French land troops and drive them over the hills in the direction of Lok Taw it will not take them long to fall back on Tai Peli- fu, the new walled city, close to Twatutia, and then we shall see what we shall see, but it is not likely that the Admiral will extend operations beyond the neighbour- hood of Kelung. At least for the present. [ 12 ] Tamsui, 16th August, 1884. Everything quiet here ; trade resumed at Twatiitia since 12th inst., but teas are not arriving so freely as before the bombardment of Kelung> Five Chinese soldiers still in every foreign hong. Tranquillity will reign here so long as the French keep quiet at Kelung. It is reported that five men-of-war are now in port, but Chinese who bring reports here daily from Kelung often see double. The coal business at Kelung has been interfered with since the 5th inst., and one or two vessels have been unable to get any coal. There appears to be no objection on the part of the French to trade going on as usual, so long as munitions of war are not imported. The local Authorities seem anxious that business should be resumed, but there appears to be some hitch about coolies and boatmen, and very few can be induced to work. The Foreign Customs at Kelung, which has been represented by Mr. Brownlow since the 5th inst., has been re-opened for some days past. At Tamsu.i, man- darins have for some time been landing guns brought here in the Welle, and have planted a few on the heights in rear of Pilot village, commanding the en- trance of the river. Immediately the French are seen to approach, arrangements have been made to tow se- veral junks full of stones to the Bar, where they will be sunk in the channel for ships. Notwithstanding the semi-circular field, consisting of six torpedoes placed just inside the bar, vessels by steering a little to the north manage to get in and out. Captain Ashton, of the steamer Folcien, on ap- proaching the bed of torpedoes, steams full speed almost up to them ; then stops and allows the vessel to glide over or past them without running the chance of stri- king them with the propeller. If the French visit Tamsui, the first step will be to seize the end of the wire and explode the torpedoes. L 13 ] Tamsui, 17th August, 1884. A messenger from Kelung has just arrived and re- ports that all the French vessels with the exception of the Galissoniere put out to sea yesterday morning. There is some chance now of vessels in port obtaining part cargoes of coal. Mandarins are doing their best to get coalmen to take coal to ships, the British Consul having urged them strongly to prevent further stoppage of trade. The Galissoniere in the engagement of the 5th inst., is said to have been hulled in three places. Many wounded Chinese soldiers have found their way to Twatutia and Tamsui ; two men passed through yesterday on stretchers ; one shot through the shin bone, the other had a most frightful wound in the leg, evidently made by a splinter ; it looked as if mortifica- tion had set in. No arrangements whatever are made by the authorities for wounded soldiers; it is said that they are paid so much a day, and have to look out for them- selves. It is to be hoped that many of them will find their w^ay to the Tamsui Mission Hospital, where they will be welcomed by the Rev. Dr. Mackay of the " Mackay Hospital," whose heart is always in the right place, and where they will receive from Dr. C. H. Johansen as skilful treatment as from any surgeon in China. Tamsui, 18th August, 1884. The Kelung messenger reports that two of the .French men-of-war which put to sea on the 16th inst. returned yesterday. One or two circulars have lately been issued by the British Consul at Tamsui, copies of which are as follow : — (Copy.) H.B.M 's Consulate, Tamsui, 18th Aiis:ust, 1884. The nndprsigned has been requested by the Prefect of North Formosa to warn British subjects not to make trips into the country in the jjresent state of aifairs. (Siprned) A. Featee, H.B.M, 's Consul, officiatJDg at Tamsui. [ 14 T ' (Copy.) H.B.M.^s Cnnsulaffl. Tamsui, 18th Aug-ust, 1884. TEe Impei'ial Conmaissioner Liu Ming-'-olman has consented to' pJIow the' reopening- of the ualive mines at Kelung' that were- formerly closed by the mandarins, as being- in the way of the Govern- ment Collifiry. The Imperial Commissioner states, however, that iu the present condition of afEaii-s at Kelung work is- not likely to be at once resumed sit the mines. (Signed) A. Prater, H.B.M.'s Gonsal, officiating at Tamsui. All is quiet at Kelung. The itmction of the- French is mcomprehensible. The British gunboat Goc/ccka/er is at ancher in Tamsui River. TwATUTiA, 19th Aiigust; 1884. Cholera or something like it has been raging here for some time ; many deaths have taken place in the- town and country. It is the same almost every year in August. Religious processions almost daily, crackers and gongs going on at all times of the day, and at night' the watchmen (doubled just now) make a great noise \s-\th bamboos, \Yhich interferes considerably with the sleep of ordinary people-, but has no effect on our Chi- nese guardians told off to foreign hongs, who instead of taking turn and turn in keeping ^v'atch, turn in early and sleep as soundly as Rip van Winkle did till morn^ ing. It is compulsory to have these useless fellows in the hong ; without their presence, it is said, claims for damage or destruction to property might be disregarded. 21st August. The wind blew strongly from the N.E., and there' were indications of a typhoon. In the evening the wind veered round to the East and during; the mo;ht to East by South. All over before daylight next morning. Rumours are current that soldiers are on their way up country from Taiwanfoo. A lot of men and boys on the green in front of the foreign hongs, and close to the river side, are looking at tlie heads of two savages stuck L 15 J on poles. These heads were taken by Chinese borderers about four hours' walk from Twatutia. 23rd August. The La Galissoniere had left Kelung, for Foochow, it is reported. The Bayard had arrived, and the gun- boat Lutin was also at Kelung. 24th August. The steamer Jnton Gtmther, having received a full cargo of coals, sailed to-day for Hongkong. All quiet at Kelung. 26th August. Reports from Kelung state that the French fleet is ^expected there shortly. Ballast boats are all ready at Tarasui to be sunk on the bar. A junk from Foochow reported that, when she left Foochow, operations had commenced there, and that as she was leaving the river heavy firing was distinctly heard. 27th August. Chinese soldiers have for some days been erecting, at Kelung, earthworks or digging entrenchments on the hills on the east side of the bay, overlooking the ship- ping. The Frenchmen, seeing these movements, sent word to the Europeans to come on board the Bayard, as they intended opening fire at the earthworks, which were just visible. Catlings or mitrailleuses were used, but with little effect. Before firing, the following noti- fication was sent to the foreigners on shore : — (Copy.) Messibues the Agent of Customs and Representatives MM Dodd and Lapraik & Co. I have the honour to inform the gentlemen of the Custom House, and the Representants of MM. Dodd and Lapraik & Co. that it is possible at every moment I may open the fire against the Chinese working in the mountains at new entrenchments near in direction of the houses of the concession between the both houses, Le Cde. de Bayard, (Sd.) G. M. Passaton. During the past few days information has arrived [ 16 ] that Chinese from the hills fire at the French ships daily, and the Frenchmen fire back. 30th August. To-day firing with large guns took place as well as with mitrailleuses, but without much effect, the nature of the country being in favour of the Chinese. 31st August. To-day the gunboat Cockchafer went round to Ke- lung and removed the Customs officers, bringing them to Tarasui, the place being considered too unsafe to live at. The port may now be said to be closed. 1st beptember. All quiet at Tamsui and Twatutia. News from Kelung states that the French fire at Chinese on the hills daily, with very little effect so far. Some say that 20 Chinese have been killed, others that only one Chinaman has fallen. The subjoined notification has just been sent round : — (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 1st September 1884. The undersigned has been notified by the Chinese authorities that it may bBCome necessary to completely block the entrance to this harbour, but that notice will be gfiven of their intention to do so. Junks filled with stones have already been sunk, and the Chinese authorities will provide pilots to take vessels of friendly nations past these in safetj'. (Sd.) A. Fratee. Officiating Consul. The steamer Fokien leaves Tamsui to-morrow. H.M.S. CockcJiafer, with steamer Ingehorg, the brig Dorita, and No. 13 Chinese transport will be left in port. The Dorita has been chartered by some influential Chinese merchants at the rate, it is said, of $900 monthly, to remain in port, and, in case the French visit Tamsui, to take on board the charterers' wives, families, and friends. All quiet at Tamsui and twatutia up to closing. [ 17 j TwATUTiA, 4th September. Nothing occurred after the date of my last letter until last night, when a French gunboat appeared off the Tamsui bar. She signalled for a pilot, but not being able to get one, she went away again. The gun- boat is supposed to have been the Lutin. Signals were exchanged between her and the Cockchafer. It is said that the French asked the Cockchafer to send the pilot, Mr. Bentley, of Kelung, but Captain Boteler declined to do so. Immediately the French gunboat wa,s seen by the^ No. 13 transport, the- latter got under steam and went further up the river past Piatow. To-day the Cockchafer left for outside the bar, and the Boretta is being towed out. There are said to be- five ships-of-war at Kelung, including the Lutin. We are completely cut off from Kelung- now. All the foreign residents were brought round to Tamsui on the 31st ult. The Hailoong is taking in cargo outside the bar. She leaves for Amoy to-morrow at 10 a.m. The following circulars and correspondence may explain better than anything the po&ition of affairs at Tamsui and Twatutia : — (Copy.) Foe T-watutia. H.B.]yL's Considate, Tamsui, 3rd Septembei-, 188 1. The undersigned lias been notified by the Chinese authorities that this port will be blocked at midnight torrQorfo.w, and has been requested to state that foreign merchant vessels should anchor outside for the entry or discharge of cargo, and that foreigners can elect to remove to other ports or rem-iin at Tamsui to carry an their business. H.B.M.'s Cocliohafer will leave by the first tidj to-morrow and lie at anchor outside. A. Feateb, OiSciating Consul. Eeceived at Twafutia at midnight. L IS } (Copy.) TwATUTiA, 4tli SpptemTJer, 1 a.m., 1884, To Alexander Frater, Esq., H.B.M.'s Consul. SlE, — We, the undersig'ned merchants of Tarasui and* Twatulia' have just received and read your circular of 3rd instant, and we understand its purport, with the exception of that part of it in which you slate that the Chinese aTlthorities^ have notified to yoxi, that " foreigners can elect to remove to other ports or remain in Tamsui to carry on their business." Does this mean that you osder British subjects to'learve the port, and that the Chinese Government will be responsible for any damage- 01" loss to properties now in our charge at this place. Before carrying' <'Ut the suggestion mado by the authorities as it stands in your circular, we have to call upon yr>u to state distinctly ,- as our Consul, whether you consider it unsafe for us to remain at Twatutia. If it turns out that we are eompelled to learve Twatutia we beg' herewith to notify to you, that we shall hold' the authorities respon- sible for all losses which may be incurred thereby. — -We are, Sir, youE' obedient servautSv PODD & Co. For Tait & Co-., C. H. Best. A. Brooke. Agent Be own & Co.. For Boyd & Co'., Gkant Scott. (Copy.) H..B M."s Consulate, Tamsui. 4th September, 1884. To Messrs. Dodd & Co.. % Brown &Co.J.j, ^^. Tait iL Co., ( Boyd & Co., J G-BNTLEMBN, — In reply to your letter of tbis mm-ning's date;, which I'efers to a notification issued by me latelpr, E.lSr., in charge of H.M.'s CoelccTiafer, Las informed the undersigned that in the event of an attack being made by the French on the port of Hoobei, he will take the meuibers of the foreign community on board the Code chafer, and if she is crowded carry them to Amoy, Lieut.-Commander Boteler at the same time suggests that foreigners should go on board any merchant {. 19 1 steamer that may. be in port at the time, and also Htate=! that ho will endeaTOur to persuade the French to postpone firing- until the mem- 'beva of the foreig-n-commuuity can be placed in safety. A. Prater, Officiatinc- Consul. T^ATUTrA, 5th September, 1884. Alias quiet here. The Chinese soldiers placed in foreign hongs disappear all day, turn. up at meal times, and turn in and sleep the sleep, of the- dead the- whole night. The almost daily question asked h«re i.<; what use are they? The gunboat Cockcliafer is- outside the bar, also- i\ie' Hailobiig smd-Dioretta. 6th September. News has: arrived fromJvelung, that .there are only two French, men-of-war in port, 'i^he Zutifi is supposed to have gone to roochow. Chinese soldiers- at Hri-bei (Tanisui),- have made extensive entrenchments and earth batteries on the hills near the pilot village, but although they commenced just a month ago they have-not yet i).iounted any of the big, guns brought in by the steamer Welle. 9th September. Liu ]\ling-chuaiT, the Chinese General, left Kelung during the day and visited Tamsui It is supposed that he came to have a look at the new earth batteries and to learn for himself what steps General Soon had taken for blocking up the entrance of the river. The- soldiers in foreign hongs here, hearing- of the movements of the General, were in full force — the muster for several days being only ene soldier and a boy in a soldier's coat in one of the hongs. A three-masted steamer, said to be a l^rench trans- port, was seen to pass Tamsui on its Avay to Kelung. 10th September. The soldiers are on the alert this morning, in their uniforms and carrying their rifles, evidently expecting General Liu Ming-chuan on his way bdck to Kelung. It is said that the dollars sent by the Empress to Liu had arrived, and that they were being distributed amongst [ 20 ] the Kelung soldiers, who are reported to have defeated the French on the 6th ultimo. The gunner who pointed the gun in the fort and succeeded in hulling the La Galissoniere in three places is said to have been presented by General Liu with five hundred dollars. Pouj- eii- courager les mdres ! Liu ai'rived here from Tamsui in a steam launch. Some 200 soldiers, 6 buglers, and 2 or 3 drummers, met him at the wharf. The band of buglers and drummers struck up a lively sort of air supposed to be " See the conquering hero comes," but having a greater resem- blance to a French bugle call, put to Chinese music. The soldiers marched in front, the band next, and the General in rear in his chair, and they were the admira- tion of a crowd of coolies, who rushed out of their houses to see what was up. The General put up at the new walled city, Tai Peh-fu, at the back of 1 watutia, and is supposed to have hurried back to Kelung on the following day. 11th September. The captain of the Doretta, chartered by Chinese, not liking his berth outside the bar, has induced the charterers to let him leave. The British gunboat Merlin arrived from Foochow, and went alongside the Cockdiafer at anchor outside the the bar. Very soon afterwards the Cockchafer was piloted over the bar, where it appears there is still a space left for light draught vessels. The Merlin pro- ceeded to sea again the same evening ; she is supposed to have brought orders from the Admiral. Whatever tliey were, every one is well pleased to see the Cock- chafer once more at her old anchorage in the river. Lieut Carey Brenton, and the celebrated traveller Mr. A. R. Colquhoun, who was a passenger by the Merlin, made a rapid visit to Twatutia. No news of importance from Kelung. French ships come and go. There are [ 21 ] supposed to be now three men-of-war there including the transport, which was seen passing Tamsui. The mandarins have been making extensive pur- chases of large junks and have been very busy blocking the entrance. Since the Cockchafer re-entered the port, they have decided to block the entrance completely. The soldiers stationed for the past month or two at the anchorage have been very quiet and pleasant in their manner towards foreigners, but within the past few days the garrison has been added to and the new arrivals have shown by their demeanour an unfriendly spirit, though nothing in the shape of a direct insult has been oifered. General Soon, commanding these troops, is known to be friendly towards all foreigners, and we feel sure that if it becomes necessary to report any of the soldiers a few heads at the least will be " cut off." 13th September. Nothing new. The four Tvvatutia residents still alive and at their posts, the Consul having vouched that it is perfectly safe to live here. 16th September. The steamer Fokien left for Amoy with a very fair cargo of tea, taken in outside the bar. There has been (juite a dearth of excitement for the past few days up here. 17th September. It is said that there are now five French men-of-war in port at Kelurig. At Tamsui are to be seen a number of Hakka hilliueu — said to be employed by the Govern- ment to fight the French. These men are armed with their om'u matchlocks, which they prefer, in their ignor- ance, to foreign rifles. They are as a rule good shots at stcitionary objects within decent range, and are very handy with their knives when victorious in all encounter Avith savages. These Hakka men are the pioneers of Chinese civilization in Formosa ; they occupy a strip of country all down the west side of the island bordering [ 2:^ J the savage territory and are brought into contact with the savages more than any other Chinamen in Formosa. They have been drafted here at various periods from their country situated to the south of Canton, and it seems to be their special calHng to drive back the savages and to take away from them their beautiful and valuable foiest-covered hills and rich valleys never before laid under cultivation by the hand of civilized man. These Hakkas are half savage in their mode of Avarfare, and are in cunning, hardiness, and pluck, the equals of the abo- rignes. They wear a savage coat CTen in Chinese terri- tory, where it is no use as a " safe guard" or proof of friendship as in savage territory and many of them inter- marry M'ith the savage women on the western side of the island, and especially close to the borders, where are Hakka villages and small towns. The women are all large footed and wear a dark head covering, shaped like the handlcerehief worn at Macao by the tanka girls and like those worn by the boatwomen of Whampoa and Canton, probably to this day. Space will not allow a lengthy reference to these wily, hardy, often treacherous, but undoubtedly useful pioneers. With the assi-stance of the Hakka, China has acquired more land and territory in 20 years than she Avould have done in 100 years in this part of the world without it. In these hills these men can cope successfully with savages with their own weapons, but if they ever expose themselves in the open to French infantry tire not one of them will see their old enemies the savages again. En passajit, it mav be noted down that the Hakkas, man for man, are decidedly superior in physique to the hill savages of iNorth For- mosa, and although they have, from the nature of their every day risky and filibustering life, engendered certain proclivities peculiar to outlaAvs, and have been known Avithin the recollection of the writer to defy the authority of the mandarins, e%c., &c., they are really indispensable in Formosa. They push on the march of civilisationj, [ -23 ] siicli as it is ; tlaey act as a sort of buffer between the savages and the Fokien occupants of the plains, saving- expense and trouble to the Imperial Government which cannot be calculated. And if, as in the case of the Black Flags of the South, they can be troublesome to the Government in times of peace, it can also be recorded in their favour that they can, for the sum of eight dollars per month, be found to fight for their fatherland. I have six of these first cousins of the " Black Flags " in my employ at present as extra night watchmen — a verv wrong thing, no doubt, — but I have lived amongst them in years gone by, known them well, and, bad as they are, I prefer their doubtful character to that of the ordinary sleepy-headed idiots, who are paid all the year round to nominally keep watch on the premises, especially in these " look-after-yourself sort of times." 18th and 19th September. Very hot, and looks as if a blow was brewing. 20th September. Feeling very neutrally disposed to-day, a corres- pondent of the mildest description being looked upon at ITiibei by a small section there as an exti'emely ob- noxious and dangeroiis man, I shall only report the ar- rival outside the bar of the steamers TFaverlej/ and WeJlc. Their object in visiting Tanisui I would not divulge, if I knew. 21st September. The expected equinoctial gale came at the exact moment, and judging from the movements of the glass it must have turned into a typhon. We had jdenty of rain and almost a flood, and it blew strong during the night. The ships at Kelung must have had a bad night. 22nd September. In the early part of the morning, there was a lull and cessation of rain and wind, but towards 10 a.m. sf(ually wind from the South-west, which continued till about 4 p.m. finishing up with strong gusts from the [ 24 ] West, proved that the storm was of the nature of a typhoon. Yesterday it was reported that only two ships were in Kelung, and that either on the I9th or 20th Liu Minpj-chuan, from his entrenchments on the heights ■overlooking the harbour, had opened fire on the Trench ships from two points, where they have apparently four guns. One of the shots, it is said, struck one of the French ships. The Frenchmen in return fired first of all one round independently and then gave them a broadside. Shortly afterwards Liu, ever ready for the fray, fired again, but what the result of the cannonading was is not known. Amusing stories are brought here from Kelung, one being that Liu had invited the French to take a little exercise on shore. 24th September. Great excitement. News has came from Tamsui reporting that a French vessel was outside at 8 a.m. Turned out to be the Chateau Renaud. She overhauled the Welle and then disappeared seaward, much to the relief of shore people. When the Hailoong arrived on the evening of the 24th she turned up again, and over- hauled her likewise. It is said that her orders are to stop all vessels carrying soldiers and munitions of war. 26th September. All quiet at Tamsui and Twatutia. The Chinese are going on with the earth batteries at the entrance of the river. A good many of the junks sunk on the bar were smashed by the rush of the water out of the river during the typhoon and freshets. H.M.S. gmiboat Cockchafer is at anchor in the river. The latest rumour is that the French intend oc- cupying Palm Island at the entrance of Kelung harbour, and have given notice to Chinese to quit. 26th September. The Chateau Renaud, which had been hovering about for some days — subsequent to the blow reported in my last — was to-day joined by a snaky looking craft [ 25 ] called the Vipere. The steamer Hailoong had been overhauled by the Chateau Renaud, also the steamer Welle, and fortunately for the latter vessel she got a clean certificate from the French commander. However, just as the Hailoong cleared out the Chateau JRenaitd made a clean streak for parts unknown, leaving the Vipere to carry on the blockading of the port of Tamsui. 27th September. Report has travelled here that the Vipere yesterday overhauled very strictly the steamer Fokien, and this morning, sighting a steamer steering from the north towards Tamsui, she steamed towards her. The vessel is supposed to have been the British steamer Waverley. 1'he Vipere suddenly emerged out of the depths of the shades which hang over the waters in the early morn, and as the Waverley changed her course, she gave chase, which lasted for sooic time. A shot was fired across the steamer's bow or under her stei'n, and soon afterwards she was boarded by a prize crew from the Vipere, and the last that was seen of her she was steaming away in the direction of Poochow. 28th September. Nothing to record to-day. The Vijjere is still out- side, on the look-out for another prize. The JVavcrlc/j is supposed to have had soldiers on board ; likewise war material. The Fokieii is loading tea outside the bar, and will leave for Amoy to-day. The Cocli-chafer is in Tam- sui river. All is quiet at Tamsui and Twatutia. BOMBARDMENT OE TAMSUI. After the date of my last nothing of any great im- portance took place at Twatutia and Tamsui, but it was reported that on the 28th, 29th, and 30th fighting took place at Kelung, and that a large fleet of some ten vessels of war had concentrated there ; also that notice had been given to the inhabitants of Palm Island that they were to clear out as the French iiiLendcd to I 26 ] occupy it. Palm Island is situated at the north-eastern end of the bay, and you have it on your left as you enter the harbour, TwATUTiA, 2nd October, 1884. Yesterday morning a report arrived up the river that two French ironclads were outside the bar, and it was followed by a circular from Consul Frater. To this a reply was sent, signed by four members out of five of the Twatutia residents. No. 3. circular is a reply from Consul Frater to our joint letter, but it was not received until the morning of the 2nd. So, getting no answer up to 11 p.m., we decided, as before, to leave for the port, not deeming it safe to remain here whilst Hubei (commonly called Tamsui) was being bombarded. On the same evening circular marked No. 4 was received at Twatutia, and this decided our movements more than anything. Treasure, opium, tea &c., Avere hurried down the river as fast as possible, but much property still remains at Twatutia, nothing in the shape of furniture, &c., &c., having been moved. The Hongs are left in charge of the compradores and a few Chinese soldiers, and the mandarins have promised to add to the number of soldiers in each Hong. At 11 p.m. or thereabouts we left for Hubei, where we all arrived between 1 and 2 o'clock a.m. on the 2nd October. We turned in quickly, hoping to get a good live or six hours' sleep before the operations commenced. Much to our astonishment, the Chinese opened fire on the French ships at about twenty minutes to seven a.m., and the French returned the fire within a couple of minutes, every ship engaging the small battery (called in old copies of the " China 1-ilot" the " IFI/ite Fort") and the new earth battery thrown up within the last two months, erected on a spur of the hill run- ning down to the Pilot village. This earth battery is mounted with four or five Krupp guns. It was the .[ 27 ] generftl ©pinion here, held by both Chinese and for- eigners, that the Freneh would demolish both batteries fin about half an hour, would land marines and sailors, and find Tamsui in their possession in the course of a 'few hoB.rs. Before giving an account of the bombard- oneHt it will be as weil to give you a sketch of the 'entrance of the river, the position of batteries and ships 'of war. At the south entrance there is a long sandy beach running for some distance across the river ; further to the south is the Lohan Group of hills called the South Hills, highest point i,700 feet or so. No fighting took place on that side of the river, so that no further reference is necessary. As you pass over the bar, you notice, on the north side of the river, the flat beach and the black beacon, and a little further on the White Fort, and on the spur in rear thereof the earth battery. From seaward it would be rather difficult to make the latter out. At the back of the fort are " downs," where are encamped several bodies of men under tents. The encampments are generally on the slope of the hills or in some hollow place, out o''si2ht of the French shipping, and in the rear rises the Tatun group of hills called the North Hills, height 2,800 feet, at the extinct crater, 3,d00 at highest point of the range. A little further on, past the White Fort, you come to the Customs beacon, then the Pilot village. Fi'om this place there is a road made by foreigners which leads to Hoobei. Following this road for half a mile or less, you come to the Customs offices, in rear of which and perched upon a bluff is the old Dutch Fort, now thv, British Consular offices. On the side of the " Red Fort " (as it is called) is the new Consulate dwelling- house. FoUoAving the lower road, past the Customs offices and passing through a small collection of mud shanties, and under the shade of some fine specimens of banian trees, you arrive at Messrs. D. Lapraik and Co.'s premises, which place was the appointed rendezvous. I 28 ] On the heights, in rear of Messrs. D. Lapraik & Co.'s and on a level with the Consulate, are the Commissioner's house and the assistants' quarters, the residences of two Missionaries and their families, also the Girls' School, lately built, and the Oxford College, erected two or three years ago. Every house flew the English flag. Eollovving the road past Messrs. D. Lapraik & Co.'s house, you come to Messrs. Tait & Co.'s premises, and in rear of the Haikwan and IMilitary Mandarin's quarters are the Doctor's house, flying the German flag, and the hospital flying the English flag ; then comes the town, which runs along the side ot the river and up the slope of the bluff in rear of the main street. At the end of the town, situated on an emi- nence, two sides of which slope down to the river side, just a mile distant from the other European houses, is Messrs. Dodd & Co.'s bungalow and godowns called Piatow. All the inmates of the various houses were thinking of getting iip, or were just up, and were perhaps pondeiing over in their minds the curious fact that they wei'e soon to be spectators of a bombardment. Outside the bar were to be seen the Triomphante under the lea of the spui", on which the earth battery is situated ; some distance from her and plainly visible from Piatow was the Galissoniere ; next came the Duguay Trvuin. The raky looking Vipere was some- where near the Ttiomphante at the commencement of the action, perhaps close in shore, making four vessels in all. We do not believe any notification was given to the Chinese Authorities about the intended bom- bardment ; so they commenced the ball themselves with a discharge of two guns, one of the shots passing over the Triompliante. Within a couple of minutes, as has been previously stated, the four ships went at it "hammer and t6ngs " as fast as ever they could. The noise was something tremendous. Eveiy house shook, M-indows rattled, and plaster fell from the ceilings. Even at [ 2& 1 Piatow, quite three miles from the raen-of-war, if not four, the concussion was felt as described. I may here mention that the gunboat Cockchafer, Captain Boteler, had taken up her position opposite Messrs. D. Lapraik & Go's house (the rendezvous) and had placed there 10 sailors to protect properties and the lives of those on shore. JMessrs. Dodd & Co. not being able to remove all ])roperties in the shape of tea &c., to the godowns at the " Rendezvous," on account of short notice, and Piatow being in an isolated position, they applied through the Consul for protection, and Capt. Boteler had the goodness to send on shore a corporal's guard of marines, eight men in all. Out of a complement of 61 men, there were told off for shore work 18 men. At first the shot and shell seemed to be directed towards the White Fort and earth battery, and the encampments on the slopes of the downs ; but before long the air became alive with them, and between half-past 7 and 9 o'clock there was not a place on the north shore or on the river from the White Fort to Piatow that could be called safe. Between these hours especially the firing from all the ships at once was really appalling, there was scar- cely a moment between the shots at any time, and every now and then broadsides fi'om the Galissoniere and IViomphante were simpl}- deafening. It would not have mattered so much if the fire had been directed at the forts and soldiers in the neighbourhood, but after the fii'st half hour or so sliot and shell were heard whizzing through the air, and seen bursting in the neighbourhood of foreign houses, and some of them dropping close to the gunboat. As soon as the fire was opened the ladies on tlie hill left their houses and made their way to the rendezvous. It Avas a very dangerous Avalk, for shells were falling, bursting sometimes on the graze, at other ricochetting right oft' where they struck, i.e. to the right looking in the direction of the passage taken by the projectiles. It is jjerfectly wonderful that the ladies I 30 ] w«renot hit by one of tliem. On arriving- at the ren- dezvous the fire from the Trloniphante, lying under the spur of Earth battery hill, seemed to -be crosswise to the fire of the other two vessels. Many of the shots and S'hells were thrown over the spur; some of tliemj perhaps striking, the top, ricochetted dangerously close to foreign houses ; finally one sti'uck the back angle- of the wall o ' the Eed Fort and buried itself in the grass not 50 yards from the Consul's drawing room.; another shot or part of a shell went clean through the- roof of Mr. Jamieson'si house;: another went through' the roof of the Girls' School; and- many shots fell in Dr.- Mackay's garden.. Whilst this was going on the ren- dezvous and the gunboat opposite were in very hot quarters. Several shells burst in the river between the two, and one fellow ricochetted from the hills at the back and struck the bark of D. Laprark & Cg.'s house. Jn the meantime the hills in the neighbourhood of Piatow, where a few peasants shewed themselves, came under the fii'e of the heavy guns of \\\q, Gahssomhe or Triomjj- Jiaiifc, bursting here, there, and every Avhere ; the boom- ing of the guns and the whistling and whirring of shot and shell in the air was anything but pleasant, and as many of them at the distance of u-earLy four miles came whistling dose to us, some falling to the right and others to the left nnd in front, we thought for a long time that oiu' house had been taken for a fort in the distance. Several shots fell not a hundred yards from the flagstaff and some nearly went into the cargo boats at the end of the wharf. At alx)ut 8 aan. we thought we would go in the gig and call on the gunboat to see what was going on there and at the rendezvous. Just as our gig approached the gunboat we saw several shots drop near the Customs offices ; one during the day, we understand, went through the Commissioner's private office. On running alongside the gunboat part of a shell fell close to Lapraik & Co.'s jetty, while as we were going up the r 31 J side of the vessel,, a shot or part of a shell fell close to hcT starboard bow, and before we had. been half an hour on board parf of a shell dropped right under her b(jws. We left for Piatow again in the gig and saw from the Avnter shell after shell bursting on the sides of the hills in rear o.f the town and close to Piatow, dropping sometimes nat far from groups of peasants who thought it safer to be there than in the town. Many of them could be seen at different tinxes dTuing the day ])icking up shot and parts of shell. They said they could be sold to the blacksmiths, A case was reported that some men, who were anxious to see the inside of an unexploded shell, met their death in the attempt to satisfy their curiosity. On arriving at PiatoAv we noticed the gun- boat dropping up the river with the tide,, slowly. Captain Boteler, thinking' the ladies in the rendezvous would Ije safer a mile or so up the river, took them on board but it looked for sometime as if they had. jumped from the fi'ving pan into the fire. Shot and parts of shells seemed to be ch'opping all round her. The ladies were at first on the bridge, but sufidenly a shot dropped into the water within a few yards from them, which caused a retreat below. Slowly the gunboat proceeded, and it really appeared as if the French gunners were taking pot shots at her, though of course that is out of the question. Every minute a piece of shell or a shot fell in the exact place occupied by her a minute befoi'e, and so it went on until she arrived at Piatow. For a time the shots fell short, but suddenly they came nearer, and she was compelled to go further up, outside the limits of the usual anchorage of the river. Here for a time they were out of danger, but as the tide fell in an hour or so afterwards she had to- move back again some 400 or 500 yards,, and as she would then be within range of the shots, it Avas deemed advisable to land the ladies at Piatow. After 10 o'clock the fire slackened every now and then, and it is supposed that the AVhite Fort had [ 32 ] been destroyed and the gunners at the earth battery had found it too hot for them, for they did not, we believe, fire after 10. a.m. 'J he earth battery seemed to be as safe a place as any, the men were under good natural cover, and had a pit to jump into after loading. If any one shewed himself above the fort for a second, the ships poured in a deadly fire. Very little destruction of life, however, took place amongst the soldiers. It is difficult to find out the exact number killed, but we do not believe that during the 18 hours' bombardment twenty soldiers in all were killed and wounded. Eight of the wounded were taken by their comrades to the Mission Hospital and were attended to by Dr. Johansen of Tamsui, and Dr. Browne, of the Cockchafer. Some were only slightly wounded, others very severely. The soldiers who brought the wounded to hospital, as well as those to be met with in the streets during the bom- bardment and since have been friendly disposed towards the foreign residents, not showing animus towards the barbarians on shore at all, which is wonderful to be recorded. I must here state, before it is forgotten, that through- out the trying times experienced by every one here during the past two month.^, the soldiery and people have been kept well in hand by the authorities, and that both the Civil and the Military Mandarins have shown so far that they can control their men, and even when the enemy is at the gate and their weakness has been proved, and when ultimate defeat appears in- evitable, they can still carry out their Treaty obligations in regard to the protection to be afforded to nationals of countries at peace with China. Fifteen to twenty years ago, if the Fi'ench had pounded away as they have done here, we should all have been massacred. The foregoing speaks for itself, and whatever may be said about the conduct of the officials and people of Canton, Foochow, and elsewhere, so far no charge of a [ 33 ] similar kind can be brought against the local official at this end of the island. In referring to this matter, it must not be forgotten that the people in the principal towns here have had twenty years' experience of for- eigners, and they must have discovered many years ago that Englishmen here are quiet, inoffensive, and perfectly harmless, so long as they are not molested in any way. The action, too, of Consul Prater during his various reigns here has had a most beneficial result, his plan of keeping in close, intimate, and friendly relations with the principal officials, in cultivating cordial international feelings, and at all times exhibiting a friendly though firm attitude when necessary in all his dealings with them, has perhaps had a good deal to do with the security of life and property. Of course the presence of the Cockchafer would have had a deterrent effect, if nothing else would, and it must have struck the soldiers very forcibly when they saw Dr. Browne and Dr. Johansen exerting themselves on behalf of the wounded, that all foreigners, were not the same, that there is a difference between the nations of the West, that the English and the German doctor evidently did not belong to the same nation as the French, who had caused the fearful wounds of their comrades. It is unnecessary for any one to applaud the conduct of Capt. H. H. Boteler, H.M.S. Cockchafer : he was omnipresent, and always in the right place at the right moment. No one in such a trying position as he was placed in could have arranged better than he did for the safety of the small scattered com- munity of Tamsui. Every one here knows how indefa- tigable he was from morning till night in caring for and arranging for the protection of our lives and properties, and they also know how well he was backed up in his endeavours by his officers and crew. We will now go back to the firing, which continued without intermission. The peculiar sound made by the shot and shells when passing overhead will never bq L 34 ] forgotten by Tainsuities. After about four hours of this kind of thing, the most timid felt more or less accustomed to the constant danger we were in. It was now about noon, the first gun having been fired at 20 minutes to 7. It seemed like an age and as if the sun had stood still. Even at this period of the day people began to remark how slow old Time was travelling, notwithstanding the number of events that were being crowded into every ten minutes. Shot and shell were flying around Piatow, dropping in the same place almost time after time. There seemed to be no doubt at times that the gunners were determined to hit the house or the Chinese tran- sport anchored under the lee of the hill on which the bung- alow is situated. Then again the poor gunboat came in for like attentions, and on the adjacent hillside quite close, shell after shell burst, affording much employment to men and boys, who made collections which became of marketable value later on. At one p.m. we sat down to tiffin, and although the big guns of the Galissoniere especially and of the dangerous IViomphante, were belch- ing forth huge projectiles, it was astonishing at tiffin time to find how callous every one seemed to be, and how brave and lively the two ladies were who graced our table. They had been driven from their houses, had run the gauntlet all the way to the rendezvous, then from the rendezvous to the Cockchafer ; had been under fire for nearly three hours in what was considered the safest place of refuge, seeing shell and other projectiles dropping all round, and finding it so dangerous they had taken refuge again on shore to find that even there there was no safety. In the afternoon the Frenchmen still continued to fire independently, and often broad- sides were indulged in, the shot flying all over the coun- try, in places where there was no enemy to be seen within a mile or two. What excuse they can give for this apparently reckless sort of warfare, deponent knoweth not, but there must have been sorriething wrong some- I 35 j where. Just about this time a live shell entered the roof of a house close by, right at the end of the town, and we saw the whole house suddenly collapse, and a cloud of dust rise high up in the air. Under the ruins it is said were found the bodies of an old man, an old woman, and a child. Between 3 and 4 p.m. the ladies left Piatow, as the fire then was not so continuous. As we were walking along the jetty to the boat a shell dropped about 30 yards from us and buried itself in the mud. It did not explode, so we had it dug out and found it Mas a 60 to 70 lb. projectile. This led to a search all round, and several were found close by. Later on in the day Chinese were hawking shot and shells about, asking $2 first of all ; finally big shot or shell about 70 lbs. in weight fetched 60 cents. Nearly every for- eigner has a collection picked up on and around his premises. At 4 p.m. firing from the four men-of-war almost ceased, but they gave us occasional shots right up to 8 p.m., the bombardment having lasted some 13 hours. After the morning's work the Vvpere changed her position to the south of the Biiguay-Trouin, and being a small craft capable perhaps of finding her way in, her movements were watched carefully. She had her foretopmast struck, and certain people said that they could see an opening in her side. The general idea was that she was crippled and had left her first position in consequence. The longest day ever experienced came to an end at last. Every one was completely tired out with the exposure to the sun all day, for most people were in the open watching what appeared to us the most reckless firing ever witnessed before. It is impossible to give all the details of the action and the effect felt at the variout Hongs. It is to be hoped that we shall see an accouns dated from the rendezvous, and it would be interesting to have one from eye-witnesses who remained the greaterpart of the day within the solid walls of the old Dutch Fort. [ 36 ] No better view could possibly be obtained than from this point. It is gratifying to hear that a despatch was received some days ago from General Liu Ming- chuan offering his thanks to Dr. Browne, of the Cock- chafer, and Dr. Johansen, of Tamsui, for their attentions to the wounded at Kelung after the bombardment, and it is to be hoped that their services at the hospital to- day will also receive some official recognition. Tamsui, 3rd October. Startling news from Kelung — that the French in the late fighting there had landed twice and had been driven back (Chinese report), but that on the 1st instant they carried everything before them, and killed a con- siderable number of Chinese soldiers (amongst them two Generals), and took a number of Cantonese soldiers prisoners. The great Liu finally gave the order to retreat, and helter skelter they went over the hills towards the rapids, which lead to Twatutia and Tamsui, the French following them past Liang Kah to a little village on the rapids called Chit Taw. It is currently reported that Kelung city was looted and we shall not be surprised to find this was true. The latest from Twatutia is that Liu Ming-chuan fled with a thousand soldiers to Banca, and finding he had an idea of taking away the treasury, money, and stores, and of making for a walled town called Teuckcham, some thirty miles south of Tamsui, the people of the Banca rose and seized him, and took him to a temple, where he was made a sort of prisoner. Banca has a population of about 40,000 souls. In former years the Banca people were consi- dered the most turbulent set of men in the North. If they get the upper hand of the officials in a crisis like the present we shall see a queer state of affairs at Twa- tutia. Why the French do not land is a mystery. The opposition after yesterday's bombardment would be trifling. At Kelung landing would be attended with considerable danger, but at Tamsui 300 men [ 37 j would be more than sufficient to clear out the few sol- diers left and the hillmen. The Galissoniere is ever on the watch, and if a few men shew themselves near the forts or on the Downs, bang goes a shell at them, and to shew us that she can reach us if she likes an occasional shell is sent in the direction of Piatow. At the back of the house are number of hillmen (Tamsui Black Flags), and soldiers. The marines of the Cockchafer keep their eyes on them, and although they muster only 8 they would, be glad to be ordered to clear them out. The men on shore here are a fine, steady set of men, nearly all of them Egyptian heroes ; after being cooped up so long on board, they enjoy a shore life immensely. A. brush with looters is the only thing required by them to make life perfect. With the exception of irregular firing from the Galissoniere and Triompkante, all over the place some- times, many of the shots being intended for the soldiers near the forts, nothing remarkable occurred to-day. It was fully expected that the French would land. All day long we Avere kept in a state of suspense, to which we have not yet quite accustomed ourselves. H.M.S. Merlin appeared off the port, exchanged signals with the Coclcckafer, then disappeared in the direction of Kelung, and would probably take the news over to Foochow, whence it would be transmitted to Hongkong. The night closed in without any very startling incident occurring. Tamsui, 4th October. A few shots from the Galissoniere and Buquaij- 7>-o«m early in the morningmadeus believe that the b'rench meant business, but nothing came of it. The earth battery has kept silent, as we know, ever since the day of the bombardment, but the soldiers still keep in the neighbourhood. General Soon, through the whole of the cannonading, was with his men, and whilst shell and shot whizzed over his head he enjoyed a very good tiffia [ 38 J under a tree. The General is quite French in his tastes, being particularly partial to champagne. With a small force under him, many of theni ready at any moment to run away, and with daily desertions and no help from anyone, it can never be said that General Soon was without pluck. All day long soldiers seem to wandering backwards and forwards past the rendezvous through the town, some coming apparently from down the river, others strolling away from the forts. When you pass them in the street, they appear to belong to all sorts of regiments and to be armed with rifles of different kinds. They strike you as being utterly lost, without officers, destitute of discipline, and the expression of their faces betokens a healthy appetite without anything to gratify it. Looting and plunder, if I am not mistaken, would be more in their line than fighting the French. When passing along the road one or two shots were scraping the earth up not far from the Missionary dwellings. The French fleet was to-day joined by vessels the names of which could not be ascertained. After staying for a time they would either go round Kelung way or South. To-day the movements of the French were mysterious. Boats were lowered, a good deal of communication took place between the Admiral's ship and the others, and a landing was momentarily expected. Circular (marked No. 5) was sent round to the community. Nothing, however, took place beyond desultory firing, what at no one could tell. Most of the projectiles found their way to parts of the hills unoc- cupied by the enemy. The bombardment of Tamsui must have cost a lot of money in powder and shot. It is safe to say that the four ships discharged on the 2nd inst. at least 1,000 rounds — 2,000 must be nearer the mark — and if you put each shot down at an . average of £5, the satisfaction of killing and wounding twenty men was dearly purchased. [ 39 j Tamstji, 5t}i October. As the French have not made any movement to- wards landing, and the fire from the ships has been at long intervals of late, it was considered safe to move the Cockchafer away from her present anchorage near Piatow to her old one. During the day cargo was permitted to be shipped on board the Fokien, at anchor a long way outside the bar to the south of the French men-of-war. A boat containing coal intended for the steamer was seized by the French, so Captain Boteler and Consul Frater went on board La Galissonniere and pro- tested. The Admiral was most affable in his manner, and regretted to hear that foreign houses had been struck by shot, &c., &c. The coal boat was allowed to proceed to the Fohien, also one or two Chinese deserters who had gone off in her. The Admiral must have hinted that further " gunning " would take place, for at 2 p.tti. the Cock- chafer came back again to her Piatow anchorage. An occasional shot or two were fired diiring the day, most of them falling a little to the right of the foreign houses on the bluff. Two French transports arrived, also a Japanese man- of-war, and later on a vessel supposed to be the British gunboat Linnet or 8ivift. She remained for a short time in the neighbourhood of the Trionvphante, and although signals were hoisted on board the Cockchafer, she left, for Kelung it is supposed, without having seen them. There was a general feeling of expectancy on shore after arrival of the transports, so the commander of the Cockchafer wrote to the Consul, and the letter was sent round to the community. (It is marked No. 6). Two of the ladies took up their quarters at Piatow, the place being guarded by marines and nearer to the gunboat. The Consul remained at his post, and an anxious Aveary night he must have spent, for in addition to an ; 40 ] expected landing of the Frenchmen, perhaps at day- break, no end of rumours and letters arrived during the early hours of morning that the Mission build- ings at Sin Tiam, a place about eight miles from Hoo- bei, also those at Banca, had been destroyed by the people ; and later on we heard of the demolition of the Mission house at Toa Liong-pong, a village not far from Twatutia. The people had given out, too, that on the following day they would destroy the foreign houses and tea hongs at Twatutia. Comforting sort of news for all of us who have properties there, it is annoying after all to find that the Banca people, who are at the bottom of it all, have not profited by the lessons taught them on so many occasions, especially in 18G9. It will be interesting to see whether the authorities' can grapple with this new difficulty which has arisen. 6th October. Every one, we fancy, must have spent a restless night and have prepared to get up at daylight if necessary. No landing after all was effected, however, and every one feels disgusted at the dilatoriness of the French. It is not pleasant to be in hourly expectation of a landing, where there must necessarily be some danger to for- eigners. All may pass off rapidly and without any trouble to foreigners, but no one can foresee anything. A circular came round just now which will be found marked No. 7. We heard to-day that Liu Ming-chuan had started from Banca with 6,000 Chinese troops, had attacked the French at Chit-taws, killed 200 Frenchmen, and had driven them back and re-captured Kelung. There may be a grain of truth in the report. We shall hear whether there is any truth in it to-morrow perhaps. All passed off' quietly to-day ; only about four shots fired from the French vessels. The Galissoniere has changed her position farther north. The transports are close to the shore, but there is a sea on, which will not permit of landing. We have had the most beautiful weather r 41 ] here of late, a cloudless sky, rather hot, moonlight nights, everything favourable to the French, and yet they do not take advantage of it. 7th October. A little cloudy and looks like a change in the weather. French still inactive, but the boats of the transports are out and reddy and if the sea is not too rougb the landing may be effected to-day. There are six French and one Japanese men-of-war outside. The steamer Fokien leaves to-day for Amoy. H.M.S Cockchafer is in the river. No foreigner was injured during the bombardment. No. I. (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 1st October, 1884. The undersig-ned lias received notice that the French will attack the forts at Hoobei at 10 o'clock a.m. to-morrow. The Lieut-Commander of H.M.S. Cockchafer offers a refug-e on board his vessel to the foreig-n residents and states that he has not men enough to land for the protection of hong's. (Signed) A. Fratbe, OflBoiating Consul. Received at Twatutia at 2.30 p.m. No. II. (Copy.) Twatutia, 1st October, 1884, 3 p.m. SlE, — Tour circular of date was received by the Twatutia Com- munity at 5 past 2 p.m., and it now becomes a matter of consideration whether the Chinese authorities will protect our properties here, if we leave them and avail ourselves of the offer made to us through you by the Lieut.-Commander of H.M.S. Cochchafer. We the undersigned look to you for more definite instructions as to our leaving properties here or not, and as it appears the British gunboat cannot protect us up here and we may be compelled to leave our hongs, we shall be glad to hear from you promptly, whether in the event of said properties being looted by the soldiery or rabble we can safely depend on all claims for indemnity being paid to us. We referred to this question before, in a circular letter addressed to you, but no notice was taken of the question. Now that Tamsui ia about to be bombarded, we have to bring the matter to your attention again. We look first of all to you as our Consul for instructions as to our leaving this or not, apd we hope you will not delay to send same. [ 42 J We shall in the event of no instructions arriving, act as best we can. — We are, Sir, your obedient servants, DoDD & Co. For BoTD & Co., Geant Scott. A. Brooke, Agent Brown & Co. E. W. S. Skrimshiee. Alex. Frater, Esq., H.B.M. Consul. No. III. (Copy.) fBy return Courier.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 1st October, 7 p.m., ISSl. Messrs. Dodd & Co. "\ Boyd & Co. ( rp , ,. Brown & Co. and J Twatutia. E. W. Skrimshire, Esq. J Gentlemen. - In reply to your letter of this date just received, I have to inform you that I have already requested the Chinese autho- rities to take measures for the protection of your places of residence at Twatutia. I cannot give you definite instructions to leave Twa- tutia, as I cannot yet say that your remaining there will involve danger. At the same time I do not see why you should not come down to Tamsui for the present and leave your houses in the charge of your compradores, &o. In the event of your leaving, I recommend you to send notice to the T'ai-pei-f u of the facts, so that he may know that Chinese only are in charge of your houses. A second circular from me wiU by this time have reached you.— I am, gentlemen, your obedient servant. A. Featee, Officiating Consul. No. IV. (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamstji, 1st October, 1884. The undersigned has been requested by Lieut-Commander Boteler, in command of H.M.S. Cockchafer, to state that he advises the foreign residents to assemble in Messrs. Douglas Lapraik & Co.'s hong to- morrow morning and to send their effects to its godowns for safety, as it is his intention to protect it by means of a landed party and the guns of the Cockcliafer. A Featee, Officiating Consul. (Received at Twatutia, at 7 min. past 7 p.m.) No. y. (Copy.) H.M.S. Cockchafer. PlATOW, 4th October, 1884. Sni. — I have honour to request you to inform the foreign resi- dents in Tamsui that it is my opinion that in the event of the French forces landing it is advisable that they keep their Chinese servants and coolies inside their hongs, especially those whom they have armed [ 43 1 for their defence, as it might happen that they would be shot if found under arms in mistake for Chinese soldiers. - I have the honour to be, Sir, &c., H. H. BoTBLEB, Lieut, and Commander. No. VI. (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, 5th October. Sir. — I have the honour to inform you that I have reason to believe that the t renoh forces intend to effect a 1 nding to-morrow morning' early. Under the circumstances it will be highly desirable that all neutrals remain inside their residences. H.M. gTinbodt under my command will be at the disposal of all neutrals who may wish to seek refuge on board her. — I have the honour to bo, Sir, your obedient ser- vant. Henet H. Boteler, Lieut, and Commander. A. Frater, Esq., H.ftl. Consul, Tamsui. No. VIL (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate. Tamstji, 6th October, 1884. The undersigned has been informed by the Prefect that he hag taken measures against a possible attack on the foreign hongs at Twatutia. The Prefect requests foreigners to remove their valuable effects from TwatuI ia quietly. A. FbateEj OfBiciating Consul. [ 44 ] RENEWED BOMBARDMENT OF TAMSIJL LANDING A5JD REPULSE OF THE FRENCH. Tamsui, 7th October, 1884. During this afternoon we observed that although it was apparently "washing day " on board the Galis- soniere and other vessels of the fleet, preparations were going on, which were unmistakeable. Several boats from various ships were lowered, and, al- though no firing to speak of was going on, everything betokened that a descent on Tamsui by way of the Downs was being contemplated. Several of the men-of-war to the north of the entrance of the river were anchored as close inshore as they could get, and the Admiral had apparently moved his flag from the Galissoniere to one of the other vessels temporarily, as was discovered afterwards. Nothing, however, occurred beyond a few shots, heard to the northward, which had a mufiled sort of sound. Little did we imagine (although every one was sure that before long we should be in the midst of it again) that we were on the eve of a second bombard- ment, accompanied by a landing of troops this time. 8th October. At about 8 a.m. the " early birds," with binoculars adjusted, had observed various signs of extra activity amongst the shipping, and before an hour had slipped away, and just as we were sitting down to a 9 o'clock breakfast, the booming of cannon, from every ship, carried our recollections back at once to the 2nd instant, and one and all decided that the French, after a long five days' comparative rest, had determined to succeed in not only forcing a landing but in carrying the place by storm. Dark looking transports were in view, and we foreigners on shore, who had been kept in suspense [ 45 ] so long, now thought that the day had arrived when the whole strength of the French would be put forth, and that before evening we should see Tamsui taken, and the hordes of Chinese soldiers, encamped all over the place, driven past the limits of the port. We thought that if we could get over the storming of Hubei without being plundered and attacked by Chinese soldiers or looters, or without alny blunder on the part of Algerian or Annamite levies — who might not respect European re- sidences — if, moreover, that in the last scenes of the day's fight, we could keep clear of cross infantry or artillery fire, we should feel ourselves secure before night under the shade ot the tricolour and under the newly appointed Town Major and staff, whose power would soon be established. Alas ! we were doomed to disap- pointment, and although many of us have been trading here quietly and comfortably, and living in undisturbed peace and quietness for years, yet we longed for a settle- ment one way or the other, and, knowing that in the long i-un France must win, most foreigners were hoping for victory to the French arms. At the same time we all trusted that General Soon, who has behaved bravely throughout, would be spared to live and enjoy the honours which must be showered down on him later on, whether subsequent defeat follows or not. Soon is re- gularly beloved by the soldiers he has commanded here since the Japanese trouble of 1874, and although most of his old troops have been drafted Kelung-wards, his influence is very great over the soldiery here of all kinds; and it is to him we owe our safety during the past few months from rioting and disorder more than to any other native official. He is a genial man and a friend of foreigners, fond of foreign food and liquors, especially of champagne and curafoa, and has proved himself to be a gentleman by knowing how to carry his allowance. General Soon gave out last night to certain Chinese friends who have access to him that he would die rather [ 46 J then retreat from his post. His plan would be to keep his men out of sight in all sorts of cover (scattered all over the downs) until the French came within shot ; then they had orders to fire and fight like heroes. At a little after 9 a.m. the French commenced firing with their heavy guns, and if the cannonading was not . quite so heavy as on the 2nd inst. it was cer- tainly as dangerous to foreign houses and to foreigners. No one at first knew for certain what was the object of the French, for neither the Earth Battery nor the White Fort returned a shot. The fire from the Vipere aad Galissoniere deemed to be chiefly in the direction of the White Fort and in the neighbourhood of the Earth Battery, and it is supposed that the idea was to clear the Way for troops landing to the north of them, who, if successful would soon be in possession of the battery and wire connected with the toi'pedoes, when, if exploded satisfactorily, the Vipere might find a safe course across the bar and into port. Her guns would then be in a position to play on Soon's headquarters and on various encampments, hitherto safe from the fire of ships sta- tioned outside the bar. French troops landed on the beach to the north of the Black Beacon, when they were soon under the lea of the downs, and out of sight of foreigners on the top of the Red Fort, on the top of Piatow House, and other high look outs. Gun after gun poured out of the sides of the Galissoniere and fipere, and the muffled sound of distant guns was heard, fired probably by French ships stationed to the north of the port. At half-past nine o'clock a sound like that of heavy musketry fire could be heard, but it was, we believe, the noise of machine guns, covering the landing party, and from its regularity differed from volleys of musketry or the irre- gular fire of skirmishers advancing. Some very heavy fighting was apparently going on on the downs, and we were expecting at any moment to see the Chinese flying [ 47 ] before the ^French. At ten o'clock the fire from the ships became hot in the neighbourhood of the Red Tort. Captain Boteler, the British Consul, the Com- missioner of Customs, and others had taken up their quarters early within this reHc of old Dutch brickwork, the walls of which are seven to eight feet thick, of solid masonry and of lime as hard as the bricks themselves. A few shells came over the fort, others fell in the vici- nity of the " Girls' Schools," knocking up clouds of dust. At 11 a.m. the Vipere had rigged up either a can- non or a machine gun at her foretop, and was blazing away furiously, from her decks as well as from the tops. Amidst the rattle of machine guns and the constant heavy booming and often clattering sound from the well- recognised big guns of the GalissOniere, we became alive once more to the fact that " War " was going on in a most unmistakeable fashion. Shells were explo- ding all round the foreign settlement, and again it might be said that no foreign building was safe. To illustrate this assertion we have only to state that the Red Fort (Consulate) was struck hard and true, rather low, how- ever, but the shell made no impression on the firm and solid masonry, and then flew back into the prison yard, demolishing the cookhouse completely, the ordinary oc- cupants of which were fortunately absent. Without doubt this was a " bad shot," if the Frenchmen were not aiming that way. The gentlemen in the fort felt that although surrounded by brick walls of an extraor- dinary depth they were nevertheless in a perilous posi- tion, and this idea was born out by the repeated shot and shell which continued to fall all round the fort, much to the consternation of foreignei's inside, who had gone there especially to watch the landing, and the meeting of French and Chinese troops. From Piatow we could see shell after shall bursting close to the Gh-ls' School, which was unfortunately not [ 48 ] very far from some tents occupied by soldiers. Many of the sliot made sad havoc in villages situated under clumps of trees on the hills, where no soldiers were visible, and at noon a still shell in the middle of the Hubei market place, knocking the walls of a temple down and sending a brick against a poor old woman's leg, smashing it at the ankle. The " sick boy man " of the Cockchafer, bandaged her leg up temporarily, but Dr. Browne could not give attention to this case, as he had already gone to the hospital to attend to wounded Chinese soldiers, who were being brought in about this time one after the other. Thundering roars of distant cannonading to the north came resounding over the downs, and the smarter report of guns from the Galis- soniere continued in quick succession ; and although the circle of danger was more circumscribed than on the 2nd instant, there was a fair sprinkling of shots in parts occupied by foreigners. In addition to the " hot time " experienced at the Red Fort (Consulate) and in the neighbourhood of the Missionary houses — 'where frag- ments of shells seem to congregate especially, leaving their marks in close proximity to dwellings — there was at this period an uncertainty about the safety of for- eigners generally, which must have taxed the brain of the timid as well as the brave more or less ! A blue jacket was despatched from the Red Fort to the Mission- ary houses, and a shell burst close to him on his way thereto. Another shot struck the garden wall of the Customs assistants' residence and left its mark. An enormous shot fell in the mud opposite Messrs. D. Lapraik & Co's godowns, and another planted itself in their tennis lawn. An erratic still shell fell in the compound close to the Hospital, and another right in the road close to the com- pradore " Assoon's" store, and far away up the river close to Piatow shells might be seen bursting too close for our safety, two of them following each other rapidly, [ 49 ] clearing out a lot of peasants, M^ho were watching from tiie heights close by a spectacle only to be surpassed by that of the 2nd inst. Whilst all this was passing, men's minds were undergoing a variety of exercise ; the good and true qualities of soixie rose to the surface, and the eccentric and curious traits of others were developed to an absurd degree. For the most part, however, it must be admitted by all that demoralisation Avas not observable, but, on the contrary, every one, from naval officers on board the Cockchafer to the latest arrival in these parts, kept cool and collected (although there might have been here and there a slight fluttering about the heart of some). It may be as well to remark at this point, for the benefit or edification of those who may witness bom- bardments and get regularly what is called " under fire " that time seems to pass very slowly, and moreover, that a craving at certain intervals for sodawater and whiskey seems to attack most people, especially those who through the livelong day stand in the hot sun, peering in the direction of the battle gro,und, expecting at every moment to have to meet some new experience, probably that of fighting for one's property against demoralised Chinese troops. Without continuing any further relation of this day's shelUng, Avhich continued vigorously till 1 p m. and finally almost died at about 2 p.m., we must not forget to refer to the most important part of the day's doings on shore. The arrival of wounded men atthe Mission hospital corroborated certain vague reports about the landing of French troops, which had been flying- round for some time. It at length became a matter of certainty that the French had landed a force of some 500 to 800 men, variously estimated by different autho- rities ; that on landing they had used machine guns placed in the bows of the boats ; and that on effecting a landing they had proceeded inland at a very rapid pace. This could be seen by foreign eyes, but on approaching [ 50 ] tlie ascent leading towards the downs — Cbinese soldiers say — the French found themselves in the neighbourhood of some paddy fields, and that suddenly from two sides from the hills ovei'looldng the same, Chinese soldiers, who were ensconced in the cover, opened fire, and fighting became at once sharp and decisive. The skirmishers sent out in advance probably were at a disadvantage, not knowing the country, but it mattered not, the whole party advancing inland were soon engaged in a sharp contest, and JTidging from the number of Chinese wounded brought into Hiibei, the French riflemen must have used the occasion to some purpose. In an expedition like the one we are recording, two opi- nions are likely to be held. It is not, however, our business to express opinions, but rather to state facts only as they appeared to us or to reliable informants. Without entering into further details, which might be questioned by those taking part in the engagement, we will only state that the fire from the ships almost ceased after 2 p.m., and that afterwards what was considered by those who heard it a very sharp musketry engage- ment did take place, ending in a retreat towards the boats which landed the French troops. On the beach opposite the boats the reserves stationed there poured in volley after volley on the enemy, wounding and killing in all not less than 200 Chinese soldiers. In the course of the afternoon some 120 Chinese soldiers, nearly all Northern men, were brought into the Mission hospital, where they were attended to by Dr. Johansen, of Tamsui, and Doctor Browne, of the Cockchafer. On cal- ling at the hospital at about 5 p.m., the same day, I found that about 120 had been brought in, some fifty had been bandaged up and their wounds dressed, and that 70 men were hors de combat, many of them badly wounded, some in three places and a few actually in five places. What a scene it was — one that J shall certainly not easily forget. The Mission building has one large room at the [ 51 ] entrance and several others adjoining and in rear of the big room. Each wounded man was brought ijn on two planks, carried by two comrades, who had carried them carefully for a mile or two. On arrival every attention was paid them by the doctors and atttendants, but very soon the rooms became overcrowded, and the shghtly wounded were attended to and packed off. Then the severe cases were looked into, -and after temporarily dres- sing the wounds, administering morphine to those in great pain, &c.,the doctors left the patients in charge of their friends, who stood by them and attended to their calls for water and tea durmg the whole night. Leaving the sick Chinese soldiers, we must follow the French towards the water's edge, where they made a stand. They were seen in front of the boats to be in perfect order and to pour volleys in the direction of their enemies and finally the boat shoved off and the day's operations ended. It is said that a boat containing Frenchmen cap- sized, with some fifty men on board, but we cannot vouch for this, although numerous reports would lead one to believe in the fact — if one happened to live in a place situated beyond the boundaries of Asia. A most unmistakeable scene in the tiiarket place occurred. Some six heads of Frenchmen, heads of the true French type, were exhibited, much to the disgust of foreigners. A few visited the place where they were stuck up, and were glad to leave it — not only on account of the dis- gusting and barbarous character of the scene, but because the surrounding crowd shewed signs of turbu- lence. At the camp also were eight other Frenchmen's heads, a sight which might have satisfied a savage or a Hillman, but hardly consistent with the comparatively enlightened tastes, one would think, of Chinese soldiers even of to-day. It is not known how many of the French were killed and wounded ; fourteen left their bodies on shore, and no doubt several wounded were taken back [ 52 ] to the ships. In the evening Captain Boteler a^nd Con- sul Frater called on General Soon, remonstrating with him on the subject of cutting heads ■off, and allowing them to be exhibited. Consul Prater wrote him a des- patch on the subject strongly depi«catiaig such practices, and we understand that the General promised it should not occur again, and orders were at once given to biuy the heads. It is difficult for a General even situated as Soon is — having to command troops like the Hillmen, Avho are the veriest savages in the treatment of their enemies — to prevent such barbarities. 10th October. A good deal of signalling going on amongst the French shipping, all the vessels flying flags half mast. It is probable that one or two deaths occurred on board during the night. A Chinese soldier in hos- pital reports that he saw an officer with two stripes on his arm fall. One of the ships, a black looking craft, probably a transport, put out to sea for a few hours, and then returned. We are on the look out for an- other day of shot, shell, and anxiety. We have been straining our eyes seaward for a week or more, hop- ing to see a British man-of-war or two make their appearance. The yierlin and the Linnet both visited the French shipping, but disappeared again as fast as they came. There is no doubt that we are all in a very awkward position, and when Hubei is taken by the French, and fighting takes place in our midst, it will be difficult to know what we are all to do. The houses near the Consulate have been proved to be unsafe, so that two ladies (missionaries) and their husbands and children, the Consul, the Commissioner of Customs, and five or six other gentlemen are living now in Messrs. D. Lapraik & Co.'s house, with a guard of 10 blue jackets and an officer. At Messrs. Dodd & Co.'s, Piatow, there are two ladies and several gentlemen, ivith a guard of five marines of the Cockeliafcr. The Customs officers [ 53' ] seem to be living- m boats. If it becomes necessary for all of us to go board the- Cockchafer the' accommodation will not be' ample. It has been decided! that the ladies should go- on board the Fbkien on her arrival!. It is the proper thing for the ladies to clear out, for no house is. safe during a bombardment, and before the town is taken and the soldiers are driven past the- settlement, we shall have- to- go through woi'se- dangers than those- already experienced. Several boats have- been lowered from' the men-of- war, and are steering to the north of Tkmsui; it is sup- posed that a large- force- will be' landed to-day. The Vipere has just steamed round the point. A few dis- charges of machine guns were- heard during the- day, but not a gun was fired from the vessels. What the French are doingis a mystery. It is- thought that perhaps^ they will land in the neighbourhood of Kimpaoli, im Masou Bay and entrench themselves somewhere between Kimpaoli 'and Tamsui. One or two of the men-of-war, anchored offthe- downs, have- gone farther north, perhaps; to Kelung. The Galissoiiiere still remaiins in her old berth. Ever since the first bombardment we have had most beautiful weather. The news about the recapture of Kelung was false. Liu Ming-chuan, with some 6,000 men, is said to be at Tai-peh-fu, in the Eanca plain. 'I'he French are in possession of Kelung and the hills as far as Chittaw, a place about five hours' walk from l^ai-peh-fu, and two hours' from Kelung. No fighting to-day. Out of about 120 men brought to hospital, 11 have died and 2 are dying. There are now about fifty in hospital; both doctors are hard at work. The Chinese ought to be very grateful for their services. The temper of some of the soldiers is so un- certain that the doctors even have to wear arms in hos; pital. [ 54 j 11th October. Everything quiet amongst the shipping outside the bar. Not a gttn has been fired the whole day. The subjoined circular has just been sent round : — (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consalate, Tamsui, 14th October, 1884. The nnderaignecl rficommends British snbjects to make inven- tories of the effects in their possession on shore. The inventories can be revised on the day that the French at- tempt another landing, and then handed into this Consulate for ' safe keeping. A. Fbater, Officiating Consul. The Fokien has arrived, and the ladies are now preparing to leave by her. Nothing whatever has occurred to-day. Chinese soldiers keep pouring in daily; there must be 6,000 of them in the neighbourhood. A number more Hillmen have been engaged to fight. I did not notice any Hillmen amongt the wounded. It is reported that a few French- men's heads have found their way to Banca. • It is not now considered safe for anyone to go to Twatutia. 12th October. Continuing advices from this morning, the arrival of the Hailoong just previoiis to the departure of the FoJfien at 3.30 p.m. must be noted. A French officer boarded the Hailoong, as usual, but the overhauling is not so strictly performed now. Nothing occurred duringthe day of a warlike nature. It is not known what the French are doing, but is thought that they must be entrenching themselves somewhere between this and Kelung. Firing of cannon has been heard up the river occasionally during the afternoon, but up to date Foreign hongs were safe at Twatutia. The mandarins had some trouble in preventing the destruc- tion of same. They will have to be made to pay, it is to be hoped, for the destruction of the various chapels belonging to the Canadian Mission, represented here by the Rev. G. L. Mackay, D.D., and Rev. J". Jamieson. r 55 j The Japanese sloop Amahi, Captaia H. Togo, left here to-day^ steaming toward Amoy. The- Amaki has been watching operations here- for some* time. 13th October. All quiet this marning. Washing day again on board the French vessels. The Ftpere-k supposed to be- round Kelung way. The ships left outside- Tamsui Bar are the Ga/issoniere at the enirance-of the river ; further north' are the Chateau Benaud, then the* Buguay Trouin,. next the Triomphante, and farther on, out of sight, the jy Esfaing. The story of the- recapture of Kelung was a fabrication ; the French are said to be advancing beyond Chittaw, to Loktaw, and with more men might push on to* Tchui-ten-frah, a town at the foot of the rapids, just four hours' walk from Twatutiaand the new city of Tai Pfeh-fu, at which latter place' General Liu Ming-chuan is now said to- be with' some G; 000' men'. It is- said the Chinese buried the dead bodies- of the Frenchmen after the engagement on 8th instant by order of General Soon. The Chinese are in possession of a machine gun taken or found on the beach. All the Frenchmen capsizied out of the boat were picked up and savedl Notwithstanding the first and second bombard- ments and the fire from the vessels almost every day be- tween the 2nd and 8th instant, very little damage has been done tO' either the earthwork or the miserable lit- tle fort called the- " White Fort.-" The latter is almost on a level with, the s-andy beach, and is faced with sand bags, running some 1.5 feet or more in front. You could see the huge shot from the- Galissonniere's guns- strike the sand bags- without doing any damage to the ricketty little stone fort in rear. Many of the- womided gunners brought into hospital during the bombardment of the 2nd instant were almost blinded with sand, and particles of sand had been driven deep into their skins, which must have been very painful. The shot from tlie machine guns fell like hail around the fort at [ 50 J times, and yoii could see distinctly the commotion in the water and on the sands in front, hot eiioagh to drive away any enemy, and yet behind the sandbags there was safety, excepting of course against those ugly customers, shells, which were burstinghere,there\,and everywhere. It is said that the Frenchmen who landed on the 8th instant car- ried each 100 rounds, and when they were expended they had to retire. The Hillmen, on hands and feet, fol- lowed them right up to the beach in true savage style. The Vipere is back again close to the Galissoniere . Only five shots have been fired to-day by the French. 14th October. The HmloO'tig leaves at noon. Nothing goir.g on to-day so far. The Chinese have an idea that the French will open fire and land after the departure of the Hai- loong. The wounded men are well looked after at the Hospital. A soldier with his jaw smashed, and another severely wounded, whilst receiving attentions from the Doctors, shewed their gratitude by offering their last dollar to them, which was of course refused . These two instances of Chinese expressing gratitude (a very scarce commodity amongst them) ought without doubt to be recorded. A change in the weather came on very suddenly just about noon, the hour fixed for the departure of the Ilaihong. A north-east \vind sprang up quite unex- pectedly, and in the course of an hour or so there was such a sea on the bar that the boat with despatches had to turn back, and as the weather got worse and worse, the Hailoong cleared out without her mails, taking with her a tidewaiter and another gentleman Ixjlonging to Tarasui and leaving on shore Mr. NichoUs, of Amoy, ^vho had left his luggage on board. The French ships dragged their anchors, and appeared at one time to be dangerously near each other. The Chateau Benaiid went to south of the Ilailoong, and the Triomjolmnte dragged a [ 57 ] considerable distance southwards. Heavy squalls from the north-east, accompanied by blinding rain, continued through the afternoon and well into the night. 15th October. Blowing very strong, but the storm looks as if it had broken up, and there are signs of finer weather. The breakers on the bar run right across the entrance. The sunken junks, full of heavy stones, must be having a good shaking up ; the big rollers dashing over them will most likely break most of them up. The Trioni- pJiante and the Vipere cleared out during the night. The JDiiguay Troidn, Chateau Benaud, and the Galis- soniere are the only vessels in sight this morning. 16th October. It is said the TrmnpJiante has gone to Saigon ; the Tlpere would be glad to fetch Amoy, we should think. The Chateau Benaud disappeared to-day, leaving now only the Galissoniere and 3uffuai/ Tfouin oif the port. No rain to-day, and vnnd not so strong. The Chinese during the storm yesterday removed the gun s from the White Fort and made an earth-work purposely for them, overlooking the place where the French landed on the 8th instant. Grand preparations are being made to receive the French on their next landing here, but it is not proper for an " individual " who feels strictly neutral in every way to give information of Chinese tactics. Whatever the obstacles may amount to, they are certainly not insuperable, and we are sure that the Fi'ench, if they only land a strong force, similar to the one landed on the 8th instant, and follow the movement up quickly with additional reserves, accompanied by a light field bfittci'v, &c., &c., &c., a disaster like that of the 8th would not occur again, but a substantial footing might be secured, which would l)c easily tenable under [ -^^ J the guns of the fleet, . until the troops had entrenched themselves and erected a few sand batteries ; but such ideas are not " events." We must wait|,for the next " act " and not anticipate. 17th October. A cahn day contparatively. The Frenchmen are inactive: More arrivals of Hillmen. These irregular mercenaries are a dangerous lot to have in the neigh- bourhood,, and as they talk a different language to the General an'd other oflEicers, and cannot noake themsp.lv es understood by the northern soldiers, we should think it would be difficult to make them; comprehend what is required of them, when fighting is resumed. If looting commences, we are quite sure they will pay no attention to any orders from General Soon. They are now strong enough to be lawless, and we doubt if they would submit to be punished for disobedience or breach of discipline. AH the soldiers encamped in the oeigh- bourhoood of the Downs are well armed ; the men are principally northern men. The wily Hillmen, although armed only with matchlocks of a very primitive descrip- tion, are brave and inured to fighting. This matchlock is a long barrelled gtin, fixed into a semi-circular shaped stock, with, a pan for priming powder, and an armlet made of rattan, woirn round the right wrist, containing a piece of lighted cord,, made out of the bark of a tree, which when lighted will keep alight for hours till it burns out, if necessary. They pour a charge of powder down the muzzle, on top of that they drop, two or three sing shot or long pieces of iron — no- wads are used. I hey fill the pan with priming powder, and then adjust the lighted piece of bark in a trigger made to receive it. On pulling the trigger the light drops into the pan and off goes the gun, if it happens to be a fine, bright, dry day ; if, however, it is raining hard, they have some difficulty in discharging their Aveapons.. 59 ] THE BLOCKADE. Tamsui, 18th October, 1884. Resuming the subject of the Hillmen's mode of load- ing and discharging their guns, 1 may add that their ordinary method of taking aim is to place the lower end of the butt of their matchlocks against their right breast, high enough to enable the curved end to rest against the cheek and the eye to look straight down the long barrel, on which are no sights of any kind. They have a habit, too, of discharging their guns from their hip, and I have seen them make good practice at short dis- tances. One of the most curious ways of taking sight and firing at an enemy can be witnessed any day up in the savage borders. The man lies on his back, raises his head sufficiently to be able to look along the barrel, places the muzzle between his toes, takes a deliberate aim, and makes as a rule better practice than by lying on his belly and taking aim in that position. The toes keep the long weapon steady, very little front is shown, and experts on a level piece of ground, covered perhaps w ith tufts here and there of rank grass, would puzzle European troops considerably on landing in a strange country, where an upright enemy would be looked for instead of a horizontal one. Certain Wimbledon posi- tions are something similar to the mode often adopted by our friends the Hillmen, but it would be a curious sight on a field of battle, if both sides laid down on their backs, crossed their feet, and rested the muzzle of their guns between their toes, and tried to annihilate them- selves by pot shotting at each other in this most un- soldierlike fashion, The settlement of international dis- putes would never be arrived at, and civilisation would [ 60 J stand still. In the open the Hillmen would have no chance, bat they are a dangerous body if placed under cover, and urader any circumstances they are a M^iry, brave set of fellows, and so they should be, as all their lives have been spent in disputing-, inch by inch, newly acquired territo'ry, wi'ested fram the^ savages. Border warfare goes on almost incessantly all the year round, and man-stalking and head hunting- are fashionable pastimes of Hakka borderers at all seasons of the year. Much more might he said about the Hillmen, but space ■will not permit. Nothing whatever o-ccurred to-day. A gentle north- easter blew, disturbing the bar slightly. Two French ships are outside still, and three said to be in Kelung. 19th October. Pine weather, getting much cooler daily. One or two foreigners went on the downs for a walk, for the first time since the bombardment. It was a risky pro- ceeding. General Soon visited the hospital and seemed pleased with the arrangements there. He thanked Dr. Browne, of the Cochcliafer, and Dr. Johansen, for their attentions to the sick and wounded. The patients now in Hospital number only about a dozen ; a good many of the wounded left, fearing the French might land again and kill them ; others, seeing their Avounds healing rapidly, went away into the town. One man who had been shot clean through the left shoulder, in the region of the collar bone, after a week or ten days in hospital, suddenly shouldered his rifle and le'^t for the fVont, pre- ferring the life on the downs with his comrades to nurs- ing his wound. It is supposed that the bullet which let daylight pass through him, had pierced the upper part of the lungs ; if true, it is perfectly wonderful how quickly Chinamen recover from serious wounds which would lay foreign soldiers up for months. Another man, seven days after the FVench landing and the smart little [ 61 J battle which followed, walked into hospital with his skull wounded — brain visible, I understand. This man is getting along all right, but it is doubtful whether he will live very long, especially if compression of the bone of the skull takes place. A.nother serious case was that of a man shot through the lungs; when the wound was exposed, tlie air passed through it into the lungs, and when the patient breathed a whistling sound escaped from it. Several men shot through the thighs and arms, the bones being splintered into many pieces, bore the pain most heroic- ally. When there were some seventy men in hospital on the evening of the 8th there were but few groans to be heard, although several men were shot in three different parts of the body. A soldier came to hospital a few days ago with a bullet in his calf. He had car- ried the bullet in his leg for 9 or 10 days. Hearing how- well his comrades had been treated he thought he would visit the foreign doctors. Dr. Browne extracted the bullet and off he went back to the front. There is certainly nothing mean about such chaps ! Stray wounded from Kelung find their way here, and receive attention. Many instances like the foregoing might be recorded, but we shall see it all later in the Mission Hospital Report for the year, drawn up by Dr. Johansen. This year's medical report ought to be ex- ceptionally interesting, and satisfactory alike to the pro- moters of such an establishment as well as to Dr. Johan- sen, whose services for the past four or five years have been quite gratuitous. Nothing whatever took place to-day, and we sup- pose that operations will not be resumed until strong reinforcements arrive from Saigon. 20th October. Fine cool weather. Tamsui is looking its best. The people in the town are quiet, and the six or seven thousand soldiers and Hillmen in the neighbourhood [ 62 J might be a thousand miles away for all the noise and bustle that takes place. One may say that perfect quiet- ness now reigns here, and it is a pity that war and its concomitant evils ever visited the island. It is no use, however, by a stroke of thought to try to banish the idea that war and its horrors are over. At any moment transports may arrive fidl of French soldiers, who sooner or later will be let loose, and the next engagement will be a well contested one on the part of the Chinese, who are rather flushed with success, and are anxious again to meet the enemy. If the French land in numbers, fully determined to win the day, and the Chinese make a firm stand, the battle will be a bloody one, and for- eigners on shore will be in great jeopardy again whilst the fighting is going on, and if the vessels shell the place like they did on the 2nd and 8th it will not be safe even on board the CockcJiafer. Fancy a big shell falling in her 'midships when we were on board and blowing her in two ; there would be but few Britishers left at this end of the island to tell the tale. But this is taking a very gloomy view of things. The following circular was sent round to-day, which explains itself: — (Copy.) B.B.M.'s Consulate, TAMS0I, 20th October, 1884. The undersigned has been requested by General Soon to caution the foreigners in Tamsui against walking on or visiting the Downs or other places where the Chinese are on the defence, lest mishaps may occur from the foreigners and the -Chinese soldiers being ignor- ant of each other's language. (Signed) A. Featee, Officiating Consul. Nothing occurred to-day. The Galissonniere and Duguay Trouin are outside still. The Fokien arrived from Amoy. 21st October. " No occurrence of any importance. The Fokien left in the afternoon for Amoy. A French steamer steaming from the direction of Foochow anchored to the north of La Galissonniern^ [ 63 ] Tamsui, 22nd October. Early tMs morning a British vessel appeared in the distance. When she came to an anchorage about 9 a.m. she turn-ed out to be H.M.S. 'ChampioTi, Capt. Powlett. The French ship which arrived yesterday left this mor- ning again. At 2 p.m. the subjoined circular M'as received : — (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulatfi, Tamstji, 22na October, 1884. The undersigned has been anthorized by Captain Powlett, R.N., of H.M.S. Champion, to give notice that the French will commence a total blockjde of the Island of Formosa to-morrow and to state that vessels that have not completed their cargoes wiU be allowed three days to finish loading. (Signed) A. Featee, Ofllciating Consul. This was rather a startler. It speaks for itself. Now then comes the tug of war. The Hailoong leaves at 4 p.m. 23rd October. Yesterday afternoon everyone was taken by sur- prise at the sight of a circular issued by Her Britannic Majesty's Consul accompanied by a " Notification de blocus " issued by Admiral Courbet, dated Kelung, 20th October, and forwarded to Admiral Lespes, on board La Galissonniere at anchor outside the Tamsui bar. The following is a copy of the documents : — (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 22nd October, 1884. The undersigned circulates for general information a notification by Admiral Courbet of au intended effective blockade of th« coast of Formosa (limits mentioned) by the French, with three days' grace da certain cases. (Signed) A. Featee, Ofllciating Consul, M. Le Centre Amiral Lespes. No. 513. NOTIFICATION DE BLOCTJS. Nouse soussigne Vice- Amiral Courbet, Commandant en chef les Forces ]M avales Francaises dans I'extreme Orient. [ 64 ] Vu I'etat de represailfes existant enlre la France et la CHiue, agissant en vertu des pouvoirs qui nous appartiennent Declarons : Qu'a partir du 23 Octofere, 1884, la o6te et les ports de Formose comprjs entre le Cap Sud (Latitude 21 ° 50' Word, Long-itude lis » 32' Est) et la pointe D^ome (Latitude 24^30' Nord, Longituda UD^SS' Est) en passant par I'Oiiest et le Nord, seront teniis en etat de blocus effectif par les Forces Navales placees sous notre oommandeni"ut et que les batiraents amis ou neutres auront un delai de trois jours pour ackever leur chargement et quitter les lieux bloques. II sera precede contre tout batiment qui tenterait de voiler le dit bloous conprimeraent aux Lois Internationales et aiix traitcj eu Yigueia' avec les Puissances neutres. A bord du Cuirasse le Bayard, Kade du Keiung, le 20 Octobre, 1884. (Signed) S. CouEBET. The upshot of this will be that we shall soon be cut off from communication with the outside world ; at any rate no more tea, &c., can be shipped from the port after the departure of the Haihong, which has been postponed till to-day at noon. The Champion and Cock- chafer have been signalling a good deal, and Captain" Boteler went out to the corvette on her arrival yesterday. Stores have been brought to the Cockchafer, sufficient to last her for a long period. With the sailors and marines on shore, she must be short handed on board. A few extra hands from the Champion in the shape of marines would be a welcome addition, especially if we have to fight for our lives when the French land and defeat the soldiers and Hillmen stationed in the neighbour- hood of Hubei. What the effect will be on the Chinese generally, when they hear that the whole island is blockaded, we have to wait and see. If the effect shews itself by disturbances at Banca and Twatutia, then foreigners in business here, who are all English, will be the first sufferers. It has hitherto been thought that steps would be taken against the fort and the military alone, but the blockade means a death-blow to trade and a serious danger to all foreigners now remaining in Hiibei. Keiung and Twatutia have been deserted by foreigners, but at Hubei we make our stand. Hubei is [ 65 J not a business place at all. Ships anchor there, and discharge cargo; the Consulate, Customs, and residences of merchants and missionaries are here, and the Coc^- c/m/er watches over us as well as she can. But how will it be when the French forces land again, and when, as is supposed, the Chinese army will be defeated ? We shall again have to undergo the dangers of a third bom- bardment, and if the Chinese troops and Hillraen have become at all demoralised it will be expecting too much to suppose that they will not molest foreigners on shore, and on shore we ought to remain until driven on board the gunboat, for who will guard our properties if we desert them ? The consensus of opinion here cannot be ascertain- ed readily, for no meeting has been called together to discuss our position, which day by day is becom- ing more and more perilous. There can only be one idea, however, on one point, and that is that the English Admiral should order the Champion or some other Eng- lish man-of-war to remain outside the port, to watch events, so as to be handy in case the worst comes to the worst. If the blockade is protracted and delayed for a month or more, how are we to get supplies of necessaries, all of which come from Amoy and Hongkong ? Many per- sons are already running short, and great disappointment prevails now that it is known that those supplies ordered and on the way will not arrive. The short notice scarcely permits of any one to arrange his affairs and clear out, should they be so disposed, and after to-day there will be no chance whatever of leaving until Tamsui is taken. It is not perhaps generally known that nine-tenths, almost the whole, of the foreign trade of Takao and Taiwanfoo and of Tamsui and Kelung is in the hands of British firms, and in the same way almost all foreign properties belong to Britishers. The tea and coal trade of the North and the sugar trade of the South have been [ &6 ] developed almost entirely by British enterprise, and now the whole trasde has been brought to a standstill and British merchants must necessarily suffer. No one here has so far grumbled in th'e ordinary British style, but the time hsas now arrived when it is necessary to look ahead and to calculate the inj-urytoBritish interests which must accrue if the island is blockaded for any length of time. The business of every one of us here has been very seriously interfered with for some months, at a most inconvenient time of the season, and great loss will shew itself before the end of the year if Tamsui and Twatutia are treated like Kelung has been. Our cus- tomers, too, will have some loss to bear, for America looks for some 300,000 half-chests of Formosa Oolongs annually, and other -countries look for supplies of sugar. The stoppage of the coal trade will be felt locally, and shipping interests will suffer also, if the blockade is not removed. Time will not permit me to write more. . The Galissofiiere left for the South this morning, so that we have only the Duguay Trouin to guard the entrance of the river. Ihe Champion has cleared out, perhaps for Kelung and Amoy. 23rd 'October. A more beautiful day than the present was never seen in Tamsui ; the morning was bright and clear and the air crisp and exhilarating, quite the opposite to the humid, enervating atmosphere which we are accustomed to inhale during the greater part of the year. The only circumstance calculated to mar one's feelings of enjoy- ment was the sight of the Buguay Trouin outside, which had been left behind to enforce an " effective blockade." She reminded us that we were like a rat in a trap, with a Chinese cat on one side and a French sentry ready to prevent our escape by the only way open to us. We cannot retire up the river, for we should be mobbed by the Banca rabble without doubt ; neither can we roam far away from our homes for fear of being shot by Chi- [ 67 ] nese soldiers on the downs ; nor can we take our depar- ture seaward by even an English vessel. Why we should be left in this unfortunate position is unaccountable ! It is true that we might have left before the blockade, but no one cared to leave properties to take care of themselves ; it would have been positively wrong to have done so, imless actually driven by the Chinese away from the place. Now, however — -whether driven or not^we cannot leave ; there is no choice in the matter at all. In the forenoon a fleet of Chinese coasting, boats which had congregated at the Customs wharf suddenly upstick and sailed out with a strong land breeze, evi- dently bent on making their way to Kelung. The idea of these coasters was perhaps that the blockade had not really commenced and that they had better get round to Kelung, where most of them hail from, or to Soao Bay on the East coast, or to the port of Tao-Sia, also on the East coast, a little to the North of Soao — often called So-ho. However, they sailed out nothing daunted, passed the Pilot village and the memorable " White Fort," and rounded the black beacon, when suddenly the old Sea King Duguay Trouin opened fire, a shot sped ahead of the leading boats, which was quickly followed by a shell, which felt short ; afterwards another, which seemed to fall very close to the leading boats. None of the boats were hit; neither do We suppose that the French intended to hit them. The boats were loth to turn back, a few sails flapped and the gallant " Tai Kongs '' must have felt rather undecided what to do, the wind being dead against them if a retreat back to harbour was to be made. Their hesitation and indeci- sion lasted but a short time, for before many minutes elapsed an ugly manoeuvre from the tops was visible and the rattle of machine guns was heard. Hotchkiss won the day ; the Coasters put about and came back to port, safe and sound, but with a very decided notion of the meaning of the word " blocus." The Hailoonff left at [ 68 ] about 1 p.m., and every one must have felt as they saw her steaming away almost out of sight that the last link between us and the outer world had suddenly and with- out much notice been broken. Later on, as if in defiance of shot, shell, and Hotchkiss, two junks made full sail and passed out of harbour, but the machine guns in the tops brought them to, down went their anchors, and there they remained all night. In the evening the electric light was turned on repeatedly, sweeping all round the ship, a. brilliant sight to those on shore, but, under the circumstances of our position, its eflPect was more likely to produce melancholy forebodings than bright prospec- tive thoughts. 24th October. Strong breeze from north-east, which worked up into half a gale. Towards afternoon the wind fell and blue patches of sky were visible. The steamer Fokien was sighted a little before noon, and arrived close to the Frenchman. At half-past twelve o'clock signals were made by the French ship, but on she came ; finally a gun was fired across her bows and she hove to. Before 2 p.m. she was well on her way again to Amoy. No mails even were allowed to be landed ; perhaps if the French had been consulted about this, permission might have been given. Without wishing to magnify the difficulties of our position, as they suggest themselves to us at the present moment, we consider them at any rate sufficiently critical to attract the attention of the Naval authorities in these waters. We have every con- fidence in the ability of Captain Boteler to protect us as much as circumstances will permit when the time comes, and no better officer could have been selected to guard us from the dangers by which we are surrounded, but it must not be forgotten that the Cockchafer is shut in port, unable to get out to sea until the obstructions on the bar are removed, and as she is more or less at the mercy of the belligerents, we certainly consider our case [ 69 ] sufficiently serious or likely to become so before long, to call for additional aid, especially as merchant vessels are debarred from calling here. The community ia undoubtedly a small one as compared with Foochow and other ports on the coast of China, but in warlike times and especially at the seat of war, we think the same con- sideration ought to be given to us as would be extended towards Foochow under similar circumstances. Can it be said that this has been the case? 25th October. The Diiguay Ih-ouin changed her berth and anchored further north opposite the earth battery. All was peace and quietness during the day. In hospital there were only 20 men — eight ordinary patients and twelve wounded soldiers. Twenty soldiers in all out of more than one hundred had died of their wounds in hospital; some eight or more bad left partly cured. At Kelung there are said to be some 2,000 French troops. Foreign houses were being used by the French, but we understand they are quite willing when the troubles are over to pay rent ; it is also said that on taking possession they made in- ventories of furniture, &c. Another accident took place here a day or two ago. A Chinaman unscrewed the end of one of the numerous unexploded shells to be found all about the town ; suddenly the shell burst and carried away the top of his skull and one of his legs, and mutilated his body in a fearful way. It is not many days ago that a young foreigner was prevented from experimentalising with a shell in the same way. A rather curious story came to light to-day. For some time past it has been rumoured that certain Chi- nese have been in communication with the French, and suspicion for the past day or two has fallen on a foreigner. The story is that on the day of the landing of the French, General Soon's men captured two Chinamen under very suspicious circumstances, and on their bodies were found a r 70 ] foreign letter, money, and bills, and also French flags with certain round patches of different colours on the flags. It is supposed that the flags were to be used by the Chinese traitors as signals or as guides to the troops on landing. The men were imprisoned and tortured, it is said, and after a time they implicated a China- man of the name of Tan Akoon— a native of Hiibei— whose family quarters are situated not a hundred mileg''. from the beach opposite to which are anchored one or two French men-of war ; in fact close to the road which leads over the first downs. This man Akoon had some fifteen years before been dismissed from foreign employ and had since been in Chinese mandarin service as a sort of yamen runner and interpreter. For some days previously he had been calling at the foreign hongs re- porting that the mandarins had evidence sufficient to prove that the master of the hong was in league with the French, and subsequently he gave out that the com- pradores and o.thers were mixed up also. The town of Twatutia had something to talk of, and so had Hubei, and the disagreeable and false reports spread like wild fire, and became for some time rather a serious affair. However, as the matter was placed m the Consul's hands, it will be perhaps just as well not to make any further connnent, especially as the writer was the man unjustly suspected and his Chinese employes as well. Such a proceeding on the part of Tan Akoon may lead to much trouble. This evening Akoon was seized in Twatutia by the mandarins. 26th October. Akoon was brought down the river in charge of soldiers, havingj it is said, been tortured previously. He was decapitated as a traitor, and his head was exhibited on a pole at General Soon's quarters, as a warning to others. A small French gunboat appeared off the port to the north of the other ship. [ 71 J Nothing particular occurred during the day, but at Twatutia a disturbance took place which> resulted in the death of a Chinese soldier or policemaiu wh®>, with some others, went to seize a Chinaman who was suspected of being in league with the French. The "suspect" got clear. 27th October. There was a rumour this morning that eight ships had appeared off Anpiug and had engaged the fort there, but that the shots- from both the fort and the ships-of-war had fallen shoi't. The, rumour came over- land from Taiwanfoo^ 2Sth October. Beautiful weather still; not a- cloud to be seen, rather warm, though, for the time of the, year ; Ther- mometei" at noon 80 ° ; a. week ago it was under 70 ° . The small gunboat outside is supposed to be the Lynx. The suspect who stabbed the " arm of the law " sent to ari-est him at Twatutia on the 26th inst., was caught and was brought down in chains to Hiibei^ 29th October. AErench gunboat passed the port this morning and at 5 p^m. another vessel was seen approaching the port. The number of "bets" made about the nationality of this vessel were too numerous to be recorded. At one time we thought we discovered some Britisk peculiarities about her yards^ hull, &c.,, but she proved to be a French man-of-war after all We are all getting sick of our present position. 30th October. Nothing, of importance occurred. The great Ge* ueral Liu Ming-chuan, visited, we believe, the heroic General Soon at Hiibei, returning the same day to his post up the. river. An enquiry at the magistrate's office here was made into the case of the foreign compradore, the compradore not being called. The result wiU not perhaps come out. [ 72 ] The officials are acting mysteriously ; in the meantime the nine days' wonder about the foreigner and his traito- rous employes still exists. 31st October. Pine weather still. At 9 a.m. a French man-of-war, supposed to be the Villars, was seen approaching the port, but at 11 o'clock she turned her nose southward. There was a good breeze outside, and as she had all sail set she looked a perfect picture. What a month this has been, how pregnant with coming events ! Will the French operate promptly, and what will be the result to us all here? These questions must often trouble the mind of the most ordinary thinker in these parts, and what passes through the brain cells of the invader, or what the ideas of the native officials are on the subject of the situation, must remain a mystery to all of us on the spot. We can only hope that the Fates will be more propitious during the next month, if we are doomed to remain in durance vile so long. We are not so keen now of singing " Britannia rules the waves," &c., a very favourite song of all true Britishers. Time and manners have changed of late, thanks to the Grand Old Man ! 1st November. The fine weather holds out. More rumours over- land from the South. French vessels moving about a a good deal; one or two from the South, perhaps bring- ing despatches from Anping. A good deal of sickness amongst the foreign community ; one or two cases of bombardment liver and others suffering from fever. Chi- nese soldiers encamped on the downs walk into hospital daily for quinine ; many of them are dying ; in fact, several funerals are to be seen daily. 2nd November. The age of the moon is said to have something to do with events in Formosa ; the consequent high tides about this time will, it is thought, enable the French to land, and Chinese who ar&ever ready toprognosticate give r 73 J out authoritatively that "Francy man must begin fightee tomollow ; have got good water." 3rd November. The small craft, either the Vipere or Lynx, stationed to the north of the Duguay Trouin, left this morning for the South. Beautiful calm day, and yet inaction reigneth. A report from Kelung states that machine guns had been mounted on wooden structures or supports on elevated spots in the region of Liang-kah and Wan Wan, over- looking the Kelung rapids. It is said that an attack on same was made by Chinese troops at daylight yesterday, and that some two hundred men who approached these dangerous little outposts were mown down ; the remain- der of the army halted accordingly. One or two junks taken outside Tamsui ; no end of rumours flying the round. A vessel like the Galissoniere arrived off Tam- sui at sunset. 4th November. A long vessel very much like a Messageries steamer arrived off the bar at about half-past six a.m., and later on there were said to be two or three steamers to the north of the port. The French mail boat, after remain- ing about two hours, steamed round towards Kelung. At 1 1 a.m. the Chinese lighthouse tender Feihoo (it is supposed) was seen steaming towards the French ship- ping with the French flag flying over the Chinese. She went alongside the Galissoniere and then steered towards Kelung, followed by the Buguay Trouin. Another small gunboat arrived from Kelung way. A junk was this morning captured just outside by a steam-launch from the Galissoniere. Very hot day ; quite like summer weather. No north-east wind and no rain. Troops suffering from fever and several foreigners down. To be shut off from all outside communication ; no newspapers but old ones staring you in the face ,• all add to the wearisomeness of the " blocus " state. [ 74 ] 5th November. Extremely hot day for the time of the year. La Galissonniere the only vessel outside. The news about the fight at Kelung seems to be pretty true. A few wounded escaped and were able to tell the tale. The accounts received are from Chinese sources and they all admit a defeat. Messengers from Takao, overland, bring dates from Amoy to the 27th ult. but no further news about the reported attack on the Anping fort. 6th November. Another French craft arrived, name unknown, an- chored at the entrance, then moved up further north. There are now four Frencih ships in sight, wind blowing from north-east, black clouds gathering seaward. 8th November. Fine weather again. Strong land breeze down the river. Mr. Currie, Customs officer, died at 11 a.m. ; he had been suffering for some days from congestion of the liver and dysentery, and died of abscess of the liver. 9th November. Warm morning and cloudy. The funeral of Mr. Currie took place at half-past ten o'clock at the Cemetery. In the afternoon a strong cold north-east wind came down, causing a drop in the thermometer of 7 degrees. A French man-of-war passed the port on her way south, supposed to be the Pillars and to have the Admiral on board, as a salute was fired. 10th November. Blowing very strong, but no rain. Thermometer 68 ° ; feels cold enough for fires. The men-of-war outside are rolling heavily. Several Chinese funerals take place daily ; a great deal of fever about, especially amongst the soldiers. A big French man-of-war passed through the French shipping on her way south, and later on the Triomphante arrived and took up her posi- [ 75 ] tion to the south of the Galissonniere. At 5 p.m. La Galissonniere signalled that there was a letter or parcel on board for the Consul ; the answer sent back was, " Thanks." This piece of news caused some excite- ment, and as no boat could go off", there being too much sea on the bar, the idea that a mail was on board and was not get-at-able was too much even for poor ba- chelors ; one " youthful " Benedict could not sleep all night, expecting at any moment a letter from the " gude " wife. 11th November. North-easter over ; a bar on still, and ships rolling. At 1 p.m. bar smoother; the two small vessels close to the Galissoniere and Ihiguay Trouin cleared out. At 3 p.m. the Customs gig crossed the bar, boarded the Ad- miral's ship and returned with a mail bag. What a treat ! Never even in the good old schooner days, when we were on occasions left for five or six weeks and more without letters and stores, was there such excitement in this unfortunate little corner. Benedict locked himself np for an hour or more and appeared in public after reading his letters with his young face beaming all over with smiles. Towards evening the Galissonniere and another vessel steamed out to sea. 12th November. Warm weather again, barometer falling and thermo- meter rising ; at noon it was up to 74 deg. There are only two vessels. La Galissoniere and Duguay Trouin, outside this morning. We are all at a loss to know what is going on at Kelung. Chinese messengers are not allowed now to cross the French lines. 13th November. Fine, warm day again. Nothing occurred during the day; every one grumbling at the state of affairs. No end of Chinese funerals daily. Chinese canaot stand the constant changes of the weather half so well as [ 76 ] foreigners. Many of them go off after a day or two's illness. 14th November. Fine day but cold, blowing cold from north-east. These changes are very trying. Two boats outside, said to be the Duguay Trouin and Chateau Benaud. The movements of the French ships are of daily occurrence. 15th November. Warm day. What a change from yesterday ! Only one boat, the Duguay Trouin, outside. Every day is the same ; it is getting too awfully monotonous. Events are not worth recording. Tobacco and liquors are getting very scarce. Only a few bottles of whiskey left. Claret, beer, and sherry are things of the past, or will be very shortly. Posses- sors of anything in the shape of cigars or spirits are be- coming disgustingly stingy. Those fortunate beings who still retain a dozen or twenty of the dew of the mountains tell you that they have only one bottle left. This one bottle story reminds one of the widow's cruse. When we really arrive at the bottom of the last bottle we shall be reduced to tea, the only safe beverage of the country, but not the best stuff to wash to toujours fowl of the country down with. 16th November. Fine warm thirsty sort of day. Ginger beer, a manufacture of a Tamsui genius, is the only substitute for sodawater necessity has invented. Ships constantly changing outside. Admiral Les- pes' flag is flying on La Galissoniere, not the Triom- phante she was mistaken for. In the evening a rocket was fired from one of the French ships ; afterwards a good deal of flashing of signals followed until quite late into the night. A few wounded men from Kelung report that two days ago the Chinese attacked the French at Wan Wan, or Luan Laun a decent sized village on the Kelung rapids, where [ 77 ] there are native coal mines. The coals produced at Wan Wan are harder and not so inflammable as the bituminous fuel extracted from the adjacent hills nearer Kelung, and are accordingly better adapted for steam purposes than the coal found in the mines at Coal Har- bour. If permission were given to work these native mines extensively and others to be found close by, Tamsui might be made an important coaling station. The dredging of the bar at Tamsui would be the only thing required to enable decent sized vessels to call there. There is water communication all the way down from Wan Wan to the Hubei anchorage. Various reports about the last engagement at Wan Wan have gone the rounds. All rumours agree that several hundred, ranging from 200 to 500, Chinese were killed and wounded, and some 20 Frenchmen left their bodies on the ground, which they, however, I believe, afterwards recovered. The Commander of the Chinese forces at Tamsui has been indisposed, but is all right again ; I mean, the gallant General Soon. 17th November. The steamer Douglas appeared outside a little before 8 a.m. She remained about an hour outside, was boarded by the French, then steamed round in the direc- tion of Kelung. A very disappointing and disheartening little episode. Men who were never known to swear before could not resist the temptation any longer. Be- nedict's face assumed a very lengthy appearance again. 18th November. Wind from north-east again ; in the afternoon it was blowing strong, with showers of rain. One gentle- man here, a visitor, can't stand Tamsui any longer; his determination is to charter a junk and to run the blockade. A curious report emanating from an official source has come to our ears, viz., that copies of these letters are said to be in demand by Chinese officials &c. Neutral criticisms must be strictly neutral ; historical facts and L 78 j events must be clothed in extra neutral garments in future. loth November. Bad weather. Cloudy, chilly, and squally. Nothing of importance has occurred. 30th November. Strong cold north-east wind prevailing all night ; heavy saualls and showers during the day. Winter coats have been served out to Chinese soldiers. What a rough time they must be having at the encampments on the Downs. 21st November. Black, cloudy, cold day, and yet the thermometer in the shade is only 66. Bad weather outside. A vessel is steaming northward ; looks like the Chateau JRenaud. Rumours overland that two French men-of-war were blockading Heong-san, the port of Teuckchan, some 30 miles down the West Coast, and Owlan, a port fifteen mails further south; and that two junks had been taken. 22nd November. Rather warm morning. A good sea still on the bar. At 1 p.m. a British man-of-war was espied making for the port ; she turned out to be H.M.S. Wanderer, Captain Churchill, R.N. No end of signalling all the afternoon between the Wanderer and Cockchafer. Mail circulated to close at 11 p.m. No communication can take place to-day, but if the weather moderates, a steam- launch will leave to-morrow morning taking outward mails. We shall have to write letters and despatch them before seeing the contents of inward mails. Towards dusk the Galissonniere moved from her northern anchorage to the entrance of the river and began to play on the bar with her electric light. Ma- chine guns were heard, and something resembling a launch with a light was seen moving about on the bar. No one could tell what was going on at the time, but [ 79 J there was evidently more than an ordinary event taking place. The launch moved towards the Galissonniere, and .by 11 p.m all was quiet again. 24th Novemher. Blowing from north-east again and cold, though the thermometer only shows 63 deg. At 11 a.m. the Tamsui launch Tonffsin^ took off mails, and one or two passengers went on board hoping to get out of the place. The launch taken by the Galissonniere last night is said to have been driven across by stress of weather. She disappeared northward, looking as if she was bound for Kelang, but it is said that she was released by the Prench, and the crew were assisted with provisions. The Tongsing came back from the Wanderer, bring- ing stores for the Cockchafer, likewise the two Ame- rican gentlemen who had gone on board to crave a passage. More than disappointment was depicted on the countenances of these two disappointed men ; you could see despair in every line of their faces, and their very attitude, whether sitting or standing, spoke of disappointed hopes. It is to be trusted they will not injure their chances of seeing a little more of the " blocus " by attempting to run away in a junk. Be- nedict had a grand idea this morning of going off to the Wanderer with the despatches, but his disappointment was not very lasting, has numerous friends promising to smuggle him. on board to-morrow in the bow of the captain's gig. The report brought round from Kelung by the Wanderer is that there were six French men-of-war in port there and a vessel very much resembling the Eevenue cruiser Feihoo. The Wanderer has brought stores for the Cockchafer, but there seems to be some idea here that British men-of-war cannot land stores be- longing to British residents. In that case we shall not be able to get supplies at all, as merchant ships are not [ 80 ] allowed to come here. We think that under all the circumstances of our position, men-of-war bringing stores for the Cockchafer ought at the same time to bring stores for the poor blockaded British residents of Tam- sui. Neither the French Admiral nor General Soon would, we are sure, object, and the Customs have always passed stores free of duty. We hope that when any British men-of-war is sent here notice will be given through the papers of her departure and that she will bring us up a few cases of stores, which the store-keepers will put on board. What shall we do at Christmas, without a few Christmas stores ? We are miserable en- ough without being made more miserable by deprivation of all supplies. All foreign residents well. 26th November. At about 8 a.m. the Wanderer left for Taiwaufoo. Much disappointment is felt by the small foreign com- munity here in consequence of the non-delivery of Her Majesty's mail. Captain Churchill, of H. M. sloop Wanderer, called at Kelung, it is said, on his way to Tamsui, and there saw Admiral Courbet. It is not known exactly what took place at the interview, but it has leaked out that the Admiral objected to the landing of mails and stores belonging to the foreign community. No objection whatever was made to the landing of the Cockchafer s mails and stores. We believe Consul Prater demanded letters to his address and they were finally sent on shore, but the remainder of us must, it appears, go without. It has been asked here why the English naval officers and Consul should have their mail letters delivered and we poor English neutrals should be deprived of them as well as stores, which are verj^ much needed. If the letters were not to be delivered to us, why were the mail bags handed over to the French ? Surely it would have been wiser to have retained the mails and returned them to the postal authorities, who arc really answerable for tlieii' safe delivery. There is [ 81 ] undoubtedly something like war going on between France and China, and a strict blockade is being enforced here; but if the French will not allow English mails to be landed at Tamsui, the letters ought to be sent back to the post office and not placed in the hands of the French, who are apparently under the impression that some of us are pro-Chinese, or perhaps that Chinese official letters come under cover to us. We cannot of course divine their reasons for the punishment inflicted on us. At Hubei we have been " blocussed " for over a month, our business interfered with for four months, and completely stopped for the past two months. The Chinese authorities advise us not to walk or ride on the downs. Life is becoming almost unbearable, and will be all the more so now that we are to be deprived of our mails. Our principal pleasure is in anticipating the arrival of an English man-of-war, with letters from the mainland and news from dear old England. People often say they delight in retreating to some out-of-the-way country farm, or fishing village, miles and miles away from a post office or telegraph station, and there to lie fallow undisturbed by letter or wire for weeks together. Let such people come to Tamsui and try life here for a month only. We are being punished by the blockade far more than the Chi- nese, for they are in their own country and are not so keen on receiving mails as we exiled Britishers are. Neither are they dependent on Hongkong and elsewhere for supplies. We hope that the heart of Admiral Courbet will soften towards us, and that instructions will be sent to Admiral Lespes to deliver the letters up to the English Consul for distribution. 27th November. Cool day. La Galissonniere is the only vessel out- side. Report from Kelung says that fighting had taken place yesterday and that the French were advancing on Wan Wan, a town or rather large village situated on [ 82 j the rapids, a mile or two past Liangkah, called on the map Niaka. The sound of cannon was heard by Chi- nese at Twatutia. Consul Frat-er returned General Liu Ming-chuan's call at Tai-peh-fu. 28th November. The Chinese fired a gun across the river at about half past eleven. Were they courting a broadside from La Galissoniere ? If so they need n«t sorrow over the disap- pointment, forier shots are always well directed; better, we are of opinion, than many shot and shel from the other ships which gave us a benefit on .the 2hd and 8th ult. In the afternoon just before sunset, the sound of a burst- ing shell was heard close to Piatow. A shell had ex- ploded on the hillside, where rather a picturesque farm is to be seen, a few rice strawstacks making it resemble somewhat the surroundings of farms at home. At first we thought that the shell might have been despatched by La GaUssonniere, but we should have seen the smoke from her gun, if we had not heard the report ; on sen-ding a messenger to the farm we learat that a man who was determined to see the inside of the shell had fallen a victim to his curiosity. He was literally blown to pieces. This is the third case of a similar kind since the last bombardment. 29th November. Quite a summer's day again, regular Mediteriranean Spring sort of weather. At half-past two p.m. a vessel something like the B' Estaing arrived. She seemed to flutter round La Galissonniere (turning about like a dog often does before settling dowii) before letting her an- chor drop to the south of La Galissonniere, but closer in shore. Nothing occurred during the day, but at half- past 6 p.m. a tremendous explosion was heard, which at- tracted the attention of every one. It sounded like a broadside from one of the ships. The sun had set and the moon was in all her glory, and after the report had died away there was notiiing to show for it but a huge [ 83 1 circular-shaped cloud of light coloured smoke floating across the river. 30th November. The vessel vphich anchored outside yesterday left again this morning. The startling noise heard last night turned out to have been caused by the explosion of one or two torpedoes, which had accidentally gone off in a house not far from the Pilot village. During the after- noon the torpedoist had, it would appear, been examin- ing the state of some of the fuses, &c., and previous to his leaving the house joss paper had been lighted some- where near. It is supposed that in the absence of the man, or men, the lighted paper had come in contact with the torpedoes. But this is only hearsay. An ex- plosion without doubt did take place, and the house was destroyed, but no lives were lost. Rumour states that one or two vessels had arrived at Kelung with French troops ; also that Wan Wan had not been taken yet. It is also said that Chinese troops had arrived at a port on the East Coast and had marched through the mountain passes across to the West Coast. A new lot of soldiers have been seen at Hubei lately, but no one knows where there they came from. It is safe to believe only about a tenth of what is heard, especially if the source of information is Chinese. 1st December. Another day of doubts, surmises, and rumours. It is becoming very tedious and unsatisfactoiy to every one. If one knew how long we were likely to be " blocussed " it would be some satisfaction, though a poor one, but to feel that we are in such a horrible trap, and are likely, say, to remain therein over Christmas, and perhaps for months more, without mails or supplies of certain beverages so essential to one's health and happiness at a joyous season of the year like Christmas, is very trying even to the mildest tempered Tamsuite. If this " blocus " lists much longer there won't be a mild temper in the [ 84 J place. Many are missing daily ; there will be none left very soon. You turn in every night utterly disgusted Avith everything, and vehen you awake next morning, and every morning, you try hard to feel jolly, but it is always an utter failure. 2nd December. Bad weather ; looks as if we were io for a spell of Tamsui north-east monsoon wind and rain. A courier arrived overland from Taiwan-foo with a mail brought on by the Champion from Amoy. It turned out to be the London mail of the 10th of October. We had previously received the mail of the 3rd of October from La Galissonniere, whereas the missing mail (of 26th September) by the Wanderer, which came on afterwards was handed over to Admiral Lespes, and has for some reason, best known to Admiral Courbet and himself, been kept back from us. Sixteen pages of foolscap would not afford space enough to contain the expression of our wrathful sentiments on the subject of the transfer of H.M.'s mail bags by the Commander of H.M.'s steamer Wanderer into the hands of the French Admiral. Was ever any neutral foreign community so unfortun- ately placed? Why were the mails entrusted to such a new ship as the Wanderer? You might be sure that some- thing would happen. Why also were our letters put into a French pillar box off the coast of Formosa, when the English post office, through which the letters had to pass before delivery, was in sight of the postman ? What is the use of any one here grumbling and growHng about such matters ? We are not worth a thought, otherwise our mails would now have been in our possession — aye, and our stores too ! Why the Cockchafer and H.M.'s Consul, Mr. Frater, should have their letters dehvered by the kind permission of the French Admiral, and no protest on the part of our British protectors. Naval and Civil, be made on our behalf is a matter beyond our very [ «3 J limited ideas on the- subject of Consular and Naval duties uuder such circumstances. If "Elbcus effectiff" foAids th& delivery of H.B.M.'s mail to H.B.M.'s s.ubjects residing at Tamsiri, then we must quietly submit ; but we trust that in future our mail letters will be sent by a sensible- vess&l like the Chanvpion and that the ruling powers outside the Tara- sui Bar will re-fuse to take charge of Her Majesty's. mail bags:, however conscientious the Biitish man-of-war may be. 4th December. Not much rain, but a very cold wind. Big bar on. La Galissonniere is riding at anchor hke a rocking horse. Nothing has occurred. 5th December. The blow is over, but there is a frightful bar on still. A Chinese report arrived from Kelung to the effect that the Chinese had captured two or three Prenchmen near Wan Wan. The French soldiers were foraging, it is said, for bullocks. 7th December. Wind less violent, but still raining. La Galisson- niere and another vessel visible outside. In such wea- ther as we have have- had lately there is some excuse for not operating, in the shot and shell line. 8th December. A change in the weather, which is now cold and dry. Chinese report that a French vessel is on shore on Paksa Point, some 20 miles down the West coast, to. the south of Tamsui, and about ten miles north of Teuck-cham. 9.h December. Rain and wind all over. Bar. fell rapidly from 30.70 to 30.52. Thermometer in shade, 63. The French ship, name unknown, left this morning. La Galissonniere is still on guard. L 8G ] 10th December. Beautiful spring, Italian sort of weather. Thermo- meter, 63. Reports from Wan Wan confirm the story about the Frenchmen killed by Chinese soldiers or re- sidents of Wan Wan whilst foraging after bullocks. Rumour states that the French Admiral, hearing of this, wrote to Liu, telling him that it was not the proper thing to kill his men whilst foraging for food, especially as peace negotiations were then going on up North. Chi- nese believe such stories implicitly and many think that there is a likelihood of peace at any early date. Another rumour arrived soon after the last of quite a different nature, that the French had pushed on through " Cascade Pass " over the hills in rear of Kelung city and had planted some machine guns on large wooden supports overlooking Wan Wan and the neighbouring country, and that the officer in charge of Chinese troops, chiefly local militia, had written to Liu Ming-chuau for more soldiers to be sent up to that neighbourhood. At half-past 10 p.m. a few discharges of machine guns were heard on the bar and as lights were seen moving about not far from the Galissonniere, the capture of a blockade runner was probably being made. The night was very favourable for such enterprises, but the sharp eyes of the watch on board the Galissonniere can- not easily be blinded. 11th December. Rather cloudy morning. Thermometer 59 in the shade. Last night three junks tried to ran the blockade. One got past the Pilot village and as far as the bar, where she was brought to by the French fire. The other two were fired into by Chinese riflemen stationed near the White Fort and were made to turn back. The captured junk is alongside the Galissonniere. What is done with all the junks taken no one knows ! Junks have to pay the Chinese authorities for a permit to run the [ 87 ] blockade. At 8 a.m. the TriowpJuinte arrived and relieved the Galissonniere, M^hich left for Kelung. It is given out that the Chinese officials hold the-opinion that peace negotiations are going on up N,orth; hence the present inactivity of the French fleet. Genera] Soon remains up at T'ai-peh-fu with Liu Ming-chuan. Soon vi^as very ill for a time after his successful repube- of the French landing party on the Sth Oct.- When he arrived at Banca the townspeople gave him. quite an ovation. l'2thj December. ¥ery cold bright day ; a wihtTy crisp feeling in the air. At half-past 3 p.nu^ a big French man-of-war was seen steering from the south-west. She anchored to the north of the- Tfiompltante. I'Sth Decembei*. Earfy risers- say that the' tops- of the North hill were covered with a thin layer of snow. Lowest reading ©f thermometer 46., Before 10 am. the thermometer marked 5d, and at noon> 59. At 1 p.m. a sound of what seemed like machine guns- was heard, followed closely by sounds of heavy cannonading-. The- cannonading was sharp and continued for some time andi every now and then what sounded like broadsides were heard. The so«nd came from the'south, past Namkan Point — ■■ perhaps as far as Paksa Point — where the Chinese, say a French ship is on shore. 14th, 15th-, and 16th December; We' are- having very fine weather. No warlike occurrence to report. The French man-of-war, name unknown^ which- arrived a few days ago, left this mor- ning. The Tviomj)hante is now the only vessel in port,. The spirit of Mark Tapley has visited Tamsui during the past week, and has resulted in Billiard and Lawn^ Tennis handicaps, to be followed by sports and a rowing match between hong gigs and the boats of H.M.S. Cockchafer. Our chief anxiety is about Christmas stores. All well at Tamsui. [ 88 1 16th December. Nothing occurred during the morning. At 3 p.m. a French ship-of-war arrived, and anchored to the north of the Trmnphante. Lawn tennis handicap in the afternoon. 17th December. Pine weather. Another French man-of-war arrived early ; she looks like a cruiser. 18th December. A cloudy, cold day. Cricket match between Cock- chafer crew and community. The match was won by the former, by twelve runs. After the match, a meeting was held, and it was proposed and carried that there should be a Regatta. A committee was elected accord- ingly. A number of soldiers came to look on at the cricket. Everything passed off quietly and satisfactorily. tempora, mores! I recollect in the Spring of 1859 — I think it was, when playing in a match on the Heights in Canton city, between the Hongkong Cricket Club and an eleven picked out of the military officers stationed at Canton — that we were escorted to the field and back on the walls of Canton by a guard of soldiers. Neutrals then would not, we think, have been allowed by the Chinese to wield the willow, with a foreign fleet in sight. 20th December. One of the ships outside disappeared and a new vessel arrived ; she looks like a cruiser with a ram bow. A Chinese report has been going the rounds that the French are down at So-oh bay, on the East Coast, in about N. lat 243 degrees. So-oh harbour is of a circular shape. From the top of the hills in rear, the outline of the shore takes the shape of the blade of a sickle, only a little more true to the dimensions of a circle ; the en- trance looks due east, and a line of rocks runs right opposite the opening to the southern side ; the northern end of the entrance is open, and there is anchorage for [ 89 ] two or three vessels inside. The village of So-oh is on the west side of the bay, under the lea of the savage hills. It is a wretched, dirty place, surrounded by a bit of a wall with a gateway looking eastward. There is an extensive sandbank opposite the town exposed at low water, but over which the tide dashes in big breakers at high water, rendering the landing very dangerous if attempted in a regular North-easter. At the northern entrance of the bay is the village of Pak Hong, and at the south the village of Lam Hong, principally inhabited by Pepo-whans of a truer type than is seen on the western side of the island. There is no time for any further reference to So-oh and the neighbourhood. The village is on the confines of savage territory, and only three hours' march to the principal town on the East coast, called Kap-sii-lan. The district is called Ka-mo-lau — in the old charts Cabullan. The town of Kap-su-lan is very populous, almost as large as the town of Banca, situated on the Tamsui river. At about 5 p.m., we heard rumbling sounds coming apparently from the south. If the air had felt stifling and heavy clouds were visible, it might have been taken for distant thunder. Similar sounds have been heard here just previous to an earthquake, but then a tremor of the earth has always followed. The sounds continued for over an hour, and although faint and almost indis- tinct, there was a space between the rumbling noises which almost decided the conclusion that discharges of heavy guns were the cause. There Avere four vessels outside at sunset, one just making for the port. 21st December. When the morning mist cleared away, what should we see but our old friend La Galissonniere outside in her usual place. During the night one of the other vessels must have departed, as there are now only four vessels in sight. [ 90 J At about 9 a.m. we descried an English man-of- war in sigM, and at about 10 a.m. she came to an anchorage. The launch left for her and we believe that she brought a few letters on board for the Consul, but the community seem to have been left out in the dark again. Stores are said to have arrived again for the Cockchafer, but not for us poor needy, blockaded mer- chants. The Champion will be turned round in an hour or two, giving but little time to any of us to write to our beloved friends. A report was current this morning that a village in Masou Bay, some ten miles to the west of Kelung, had been taken this morning. Twenty French are said to have been killed. The same distant rumbling sounds were heard at about 7 a.m. and lasted till past 9 a.m. French ships seem to be congregating in the neighbour- hood of Tamsui, and if reinforcements are at Kelung, we ought to see Tamsui taken before the year is out. We shall have to be as merry as we can on Christmas and New Year's days, bat the stoppage of our mails again is the bitterest pill we have at present to swallow. 22nd December. H.M.S. Champion left this morning for Anping. A few private letters were delivered to Consul Frater, and letters and stores to the Cockchafer; and, we hear, the Customs people received stores, likewise the Consul; but the remainder of the British community had to go without again, strict orders being given not to deliver anything to us in the shape of letters or stores. Is there any use in making it public ? It would appear not. There can be no harm, however, in recor- ding that since the commencement of the blockade, just two months ago, many of us have been obliged to deprive ourselves of many necessaries, and to put ourselves on half and three-quarter allowance, saving only a few things to tide over Christmas with. We have been livijjg in the hope that the French would allow,atthis season of theyear [ 91 J at least, stores to be landed, even if they continue to veto the delivery of mails, butitseems they w^ill not. Sowepoor merchants and others must now go on for another month, perhaps six months — who knows ! — without any addi- tion to our creature comforts L We have had to beg a little beer here, sherry there, flour and biscuits, mustard and pepper, salt, etc., from the Naval officers and other privileged individuals, but in a week or two we shall be as badly off for everything as before. All the foreign officials here are well off, as the supplies for them by the Champion have been landed, but the poor merchants must be contented with the crumbs that they can gather from the tables of lucky individuals whom " blocus effectif " does not affect. In the south of the island matters are not in this state, the blockade not being " effectif " there, it would appear. In fact, we under- stand that the news brought on by the Champion is to the effect that for many days not a French vessel had been sighted off Anping or Takao. If this is true— and we believe it is — ^the blockade has virtually been " raised." Let alone the absence of stores, we are now without seven (7) European mails. What can it possibly matter to the French Admiral whether we get European and American mails or not ? but to us — who have friends in England and business relations with both countries — it is of the greatest importance. Such communicationsofaprivateandbusiness nature, coming from distant countries, cannot possibly contain matter that would assist Chinese officials at all. It is utterly impossible not to grumble about the stoppage of mails," and at this season of the year especially, about the non-delivery of our Christmas stores and other things kept back from us since the 23rd of October last, the date of the establishment of the blockade. It will be re- membered that we had barely 24 hours' notice given to us Tarasuiites, although the news was knoM'n in Hongkong and Amoy a day or two previous to the issuing of the [ 92 ] proclamation here. Had we received a week or two's notice it would have been very different, or were a British merchant vessel allowed to take away our goods, produce, valuables, &c., our position would not be so unfortunate. There would be no inducement for any of us to stop here, especially if the capture of Tamsui and the reopening of the port is to be delayed for months more. We might just as well clear out with our moveable properties of all kinds, leaving our homes in charge of Chinese, as we have been compelled to do at Twatutia, or to the care of our French neighbours,_as we have been forced to do at Kelung. We feel sure that they would protect our properties, and hfind them over again when troubles were over in Tormosa and in the event of the French delaying to take Tamsui for the next how many months, why, then we had better entrust our houses and godowns to the care of our Chinese employes but under the protection of the Chinese officials, who have shown unmistakeably, since the bombardment of Kelung, that foreign properties at Twatutia and Plubci have been cared for by them although the enemy had landed at Kelung and had knocked very loudly at the door of Tamsui. Under ordinary circumstances foreign merchants would no doubt wish to remain at their posts, and to go on trading pencefuUy and quietly, but under present circumstances there can be no profit in re- maining, and we doubt if any one would care to remain to see the end of this long game of reprisals, said to be just short of actual war. The following circular was sent round to-day to the community : — (Copy.) H.B.M.'s Tonsulate. Tamstji, 22n(l DecembBi-, 1S84 The undersigned has hewn requested by the Chinese Authorities to warn foreigiiers not to visit the Downs. (feigned) A. Featek, Offlciatinpr Consnl. There is no doubt that the six men-of-war outside have caused some excitement in the camp here, and the [ 03 ] soldiers on the Downs may readily be excused for being a little more exercised than usual. Every time a British man-of-war comes to Tamsui suspicion arises in the breasts of the Chinese soldiers that the English are in league with the BVench. They see the English Commander's boat visit the Erench Admiral's ship ; they note the communication passing between the Cockchafer and the Champion, ike, and cannot make it all out. The Chinese officers, knowing better, explain the matter to the troops, and all passes off quietly, but a suspicion lurks in their minds never- theless that all is not quite square. It is wonderful how quiet and inoffensive the Chinese soldiers have been from the very commencement of the troubles here. 23rd December. After the Champion left yesterday morning, a yarn went the rounds that a French officer had informed an English officer that a French ship " had only a day or two ago sighted in the Formosa Channel three Chinese cruisers.'' This was news indeed ! It is reported also that the friends of the French officer killed on the 8th of October last, when the French landed at Tamsui, had written or telegraphed out to request the British Consul to endeavour to recover the body. Let us hope that he will succeed ! Communication with the mainland by junks seems to be pretty regular between this and Taiwanfoo, and we learn with envy that stores and mails were landed ex Chavijnon at Taiwanfoo on her way up. What lucky mortals the Anpingites are ! Our regatta arrangements are progressing favour- ably ; the programme looks well considering everything. Every one is death on currants and raisins, citron and almonds. Amateur iSoyers are mugging up cookery books, for we are bound to have Christmas puddings and mince-pies at any rate. [ 94 ] The story about Kimpaoli seems to be this. A boat's crew from one of the Fi-ench ships was either capsized in Masou Bay, or the men landed and were killed by the Chinese. To punish the Kimpaoli people, a gunboat was despatched from Kelung and the place was destroyed, the noise of firing in that quarter being thus accounted for. There are various stories flying about, one of thera being that there is no truth at all in this report ! Apropos of mails, what a genius the man must have been who despatched his budget of letters in a box miarked " Baking Powder," and which came duly to hand. It is said that General Liu Ming-chuan has offered Tls. 200 to any one who will find and produce the body of the French officer killed on the 8th of October; the old warrior, it seems, is a man with a heart " tender and true." There was a movement to-day amongst the French shipping outside. The Triomphante was seen to change her position in the afternoon, taking up a berth not far from the entrance of a small stream which winds its way between the first and second downs and runs into the sea to the north of the Tamsui Biver. The move- ments of the Triomphante and of one or two other ves- sels appeared ominous in the opinion of certain oracular authorities, but nothing came of it. Training or rather practising for the Regatta has been going on vigorously for some days, blue jackets stretching the sinews of their brawny arms, and redoub- table stokers, hailing from the West Countrie, outvying them in their exertions, whilst all the old native gigmen are brushing themselves up, endeavouring to show that although steam launches have of late years somewhat interfered with their " pidgin," they can, when called upon, come up to the scratch. 24th December. Ships outside appear again to be getting into posi- tion. It is time to do something, but we fear nothing [ 95 ] can be done to-day, as it is blowing too strong from the north-east to permit of the landing of troops. Pive or six boats are out sailing in the river ; we shall have a good show on the 26th if the wind is as favourable then as it is to-day. One of the boats capsized this afternoon with three Customs officers. 25 th December. A regular wintry day, very cold, and blowing strong with lots of rain. Notwithstanding the blockade there was no lack of good cheer ; the tables groaned under the weight of huge pieces of beef, of lordly turkeys, fatted capons, and the like; and the home-made puddings, pies, and cakes were a success. For the time all our blocus troubles were forgotten. A merry Christmas was spent by all afloat and shore. And it was rumoured next day that the heads of some were sore 26th December. Regatta postponed till the 29th, much to the satisfaction of those who entered into last night's fun and jollity with zest and " spirit." 27th December. Fine weather again. Five French ships outside. A courier arrived from Taiwanfoo in the afternoon with one or two coast letters, but no foreign mail letters. A big iron-clad arrived towards evening, name unknown. 28th December. Two out of six vessels left this morning. The re- maining four smoking-up, perhaps condensing. Very hot to-dav, thermometer 60 dee;. 29th December. Quite cold again, and blowing from N.E., threaten- ing to rain. At 10 o'clock precisely the regatta com- menced. The first three races were got through and then there was an interval for tiffin. The first was a rowing match between three local gigs (6-oared), Chi- nese crews. The second was a race between three six- oared gigs with foreign crews. The " Stokers " won, [ 96 ] beating the other two crews of blue jackets. Then came a canoe race. After tiffin there was a sailing race between the Cockchafer's boats and local gigs. There was a pretty start and a soldier's breeze, which rendered sailing easy. A shore boat won, hands down. Afterwards, there were sampan races with bluejackets in, a four-oared gig race, a dingy race, and a sailing race for native cargo boats ; then a duck hunt, and last of all the greased pole or boom, at the end of which was hung a pig. Every- thing went off Avell, the weather, however, was not so pleasant in the afternoon as it might have been. Considering everything, our little regatta may be said to have been quite a success. The prizes amounted to close on $150, the highest being $20. 30th December. Another cold, wintry day, but no rain. Only four French ships in sight, all rolling fearfully, especially the big ship which arrived on the 27th inst. It is said that the French vessel which got on shore at Pak-sapo'nt was hauled off the next day by two other French vessels. There have been so many rumours about the destruction of Kimpao-li and the ship on shore at Pak-sa that no one knows what to believe ! 31st December. Rather milder weather to-day; thermometer up to 00 ° . Chinese have got hold of a piece of news to- day that two French vessels were sunk at Matsou or somewhere in the Channel between Tamsui and Foochow, by five Chinese gunboats. News came down the river to-day that three more French soldiers had been killed near Wan Wan, or some- where in the neighbourhood, and that their heads had been taken to T'ai-peh-fu. It is impossible to say with any certainty how far the French outposts have advanced in the direction of Wan Wan. One day you hear from Chinese that Wan Wan is taken, that there have been engagements at the place itself, that the i rench were in [ 97 ] possession of the hills overlooking the village, &c. ; and then you are astonished to hear that they are still meet- ing with opposition from Chinese riflemen in " Cascade Pass " — a place just in rear of Kelung City — on the road to Wan Wan. We are inclined to believe that the French are in possession of the hills overlooking Wan Wan, but that they are not strong enough in numbers to push across the rapids, which run past the village. The French are no doubt finding it difficult to advance into the country. The nature of the country is very favourable to the invaded, the country around Kelung being hilly and full of cover, and the only roads being narrow pathways. Chinese soldiers are said to be scattered all over the hills, on the tops and sides of hills. They either dig rifle pits or take up their position in thick jungly cover, and up trees even. French soldiers advancing are open to the fire of unseen riflemen, some of whom are as well versed as a hill savage in the mode of advancing through long grass and thick undergrowth towards an enemy, crawling often on all-fours, suddenly raisingthemselves just high enough to take aim, then as quick as a snake disappear out of sight, diving under cover again, retreating as fast as possible on their knees and hands from the tell-tale smoke, which invariably attracts the. fire of the enemy. Such is, we understand, the sort of warfare now going on at " the front." The old year is passing away rapidly. What an eventful one it has been to us all here, especially during the past five months ! Kelung bombarded and taken and our business there closed, Twatutia closed also to trade by the fact of its being unsafe to live there. Two bombardments at Tanisui and afterwards the block- ade, which cuts us off from communication with our friends. It is nine weeks now from the establish- ment of the blockade, during which period the French have only allowed us to receive one mail. Bemoaning [ 98 J our unfortunate position will do no good, however ; so let us see the old year out in proper style, and trust that the morrow will heraild in a brighter and happier year to all -of us. There is a silver lining to every dark cloud ; let us hope that we shall get a glimpse of the silver lining before another month has passed away. So mote it be ! Just as the midnight chimes of a ship's bell pro- claimed the hour of midnight a tenor voice was heard, in accents bland, to pour forth the following song : — PAEODT ON " BrT I WONDEE HOW lOiyG IT WILL BE." ][By the Tamsui Poet Laureate.] The Ereiioh have bombarded Tamsui, And now have blockaded the port ; But in spite of an effort at landinff, Have not taken an earthwork or fort. The goddess of war has not favoured Their arms in Tamsui, you see ; Yet soon they will open the harbour.; But I wonder how long- it will be ! At Pooehow they came down like the storm-cloud Comes down on the waveless sea, And their ironclads' cannon were thundering loud To awaken the heathen Chinee. They broke up the gunboats and arsenal ; Then sailed for Formosa in glee. Intending to conquer this island ; But I wonder how long it will be Before they will open the Customs To favour the export of tea. At present trade is at stagnation Because 'tis Monsieur's policy. The blockade has trebled the prices Of everything here, you'll agree ; Yet affairs will soon come to a crisis,; But I wonder how long it wiU "be ! The New Year is opening quite gaily. And I hope "before long we shall see AU 'end to what they call reprisals ; But I wonder how long it will be ! (Signed) A. E. H., '■°°^- Poet Laureate. [ 99 J Tamsui, 1st January, 1885. A change in the weather, quite warm again; Therm, 64°. Everyone trying to look happy,but can't ! We never shall be happy again until our mails are delivered up to us. What a puny miserable little war this is, to be sure! Two unsuccessful bombardments, afterwards three months' inaction. British mails btought on to British men-of-war, some of the letters delivered to a favoured few. the others not allowed by the French to be delivered to their British owners. It often strikes one as curious that French ships (no declaration of War having been made between France and China) are permitted to stop mails being delivered to British neutrals residing in Formosa, a part of the empire of China, and that the same ships, if disabled or in want of stores or mails, &c , are permitted by international laws to make use of a British port like Hongkong. The courtesy shown by the English in Hongkong towards the French might, we think, be extended by the French towards the few British residents here in the matter of letters and stores. The French no doubt have a perfect right to prevent letters coming into the country, but why exercise the right against a few neutrals ? Since the blockade was estab- ished. We suppose there never was more regular com- munication by junks between the ipainland and Formosa. We understand that junks are continually bringing Chi- nese mails from the north and from the mainland Chi- nese ports to the west of the island. Running the blockade seems to be an easy matter from all accounts, so that it would appear that the Chinese get their mails regularly by the old fashioned route, and foreign mer- chants, who trust their mails to Government postal autho- rities and Government ships, have to go without. One of the ships outside left last night and came back in the afternoon with a junk in tow. There are now five French men-of-war outside. [ 100 ] Tamsui, 2nd January. Blowing hard and cold again, but no rain. Another junk captured to-day and towed past the port northward. The junk captured yesterday was dismasted and towed round Kelung-wards. Courier arrived from Taiwanfo, with dates to the 26th ultimo, 3rd January. Fine, bright day-, strong wind down the river. Christmas and New Year's festivities being over, every- thing appears extra dull. If we were only allowed to take our guns after snipe, or to take a gallop across the downs, life would not be quite so dreary. Pour ships still outside. One of the junks taken yesterday was seen dismasted and water-logged floating to the south, towards Namkau Point. Chinese say the junkmen are all taken round to Kelung and are made to work at the new roads which are being made there., 4th January. Fine, bright, coid day. Two out of the four ships outside left, but one returned later on. In the afternoon two French vessels were seen at sea, steaming for the south. A heavy musketry fire was heard on the south side of the river ; turned out to be a body of Chinese soldiers drilling. They appear to have a few field pieces and to know how to use them. 5th January. Fine, warm day. Three vessels outside. In the afternoon a ship like the one which left yesterday return- ed from the south with a junk in tow. The blockade runners seem to be having a bad time of it just now. General Soon returned from T'ai-peh-fu, the new walled city in course of building, in the Banca plain. The General has had a long holiday up the river. Several earth batteries, we hear, have been thrown up in the plain, commanding approaches from Kelung as well as Tamsui. [ 101 ] TAMSut, 6th January. The movements of the French ships to-day were most confusing. Two vessels left for a cruise, after junks, one new craft came round from Kelung,. two- afterwards arrived, from, the- south and steamed round to* Eelung.. Later on in the day one- of the- cruisers returned with two- unfortunate junks in tow. The- Galiss junks, for ELelung it is supposed. 8th January. Mne; bright day ;. bit of a bar on-. Only three ships in sight to-day. In the afternoon an explosion was heard om the- hill close- to the- foreign settlement. It turned out to be- another case of inquisitiveness, withthe- usual result. TwO' Chinese with bumps of curiosity largely developed knocked off the top of a ten-inch shell, and then began ta^ scrape the powder out ;. suddenly the- shell burst, carrying away the leg of one of the mdn and stripping: the- skin off his body, killing him of course; the other escaped with his^ life, but was severely burnt. There have been four cases of the samje sort since the bombard- ments, one of the explosions killing four men. The un- explodcil shells found on the downs and elsewhere have,, when meddled with, killed almost as many Chinamen as. were shot dead on the- day of the first bombardment. 9th and 10th January. Three ships outside ; blowing ; no occurrence. 11th January. Bright, warm. day. A. ship- arrived from the north, making four ships outside. 12th January. Blowing ; misty to seaward. A cruiser, arrived from Takao, reported that the Triompliante and another vessel were off Anping, [ 103 1 Chinese report fighting at Wan Wan on the 10th. Eight Frenchmen killed; Chinese loss variously estimat- ed. Reports from Wan Wan are not trustworthy. 13th January. Five ships outside; blowing half a gale; much rain. 14th January. Bleak, cold day, with drizzling rain ; proper Tam- sui weather at this time of year. Four ships outside, scarcely visible for mist or rain. 15th January. Very cold morning. Therm, at noon 54 '-' . Big sea outside ; ships, rolling heavily. A regular wintry sort of day. 17th January. Warm, bright weather. The D' EstaingY&iX., and a . vessel like the Vipere arrived, but went back down towards Kelung, A courier arrived from Taiwanfoo bringing information that mails would be delivered to us on arrival of the next English man-of-war. This is glorious news, almost too good to be true ! The Chinese say that they captured from the French during the engagement of the 10th a canvas boat, on one of the small lakes or lather tarns in the neighbour- hood of Wan \A'an. Another piece of news from Wan Wan is that the French are building across the rapids there a bridge of boats, but w© hear so many Wan Wanners daily, that one cannot say whether it is true or not. Jt will be necessary to cross th& rapids at this place or at a place below Leang Kah (Niaka) in order to get on the main road leading to the Banca plain, where Lm Ming-chuan is said to be with the main body of his army. 18tk January, A wet morning. In the afternoon a north-easter sprang up, and the rain came down in torrents; too misty to see the French ships ; blew a gale during the eight. [ 103 1, roth Jknuaiy., Cbld; bright day,. Therms 57 in the shade. Only three- ships outside;-, a s-hiplike- D'Estain^. returned m; the afternoon. Another courier from Taiwanfoo^ report- ing everything, very quiet thea-e; the natives and soldiery; veiy, civil, to. foreigners. 20th, 2 M; January. Mne- weather. Gteat excitement ; a vessel seen' making for the port supposed] to be the Ghampion. Ah lae ! it turned out to be- a French vessel. Only three? ships in port., Chinese say French reinforcements h.jive been arriving of lateat Kelung, and thatthey have: now some 4,000 troops there; 2 2nd;^ January. Another fine- day, but looked threatening towards evening. There is a story emanating from. the old " un- reliable source " that our mails are to be landed, but^ that no letters for foreigners in Customs employ will be- delivered. Nous nerrons L Anothercourier in from the- southi reporting, that the Fiiench had been destroying a, lot of junks down that way. 23rd and 24th January. Dull; cloudy weather, high barometer, threatening^ ajiorth-easter. News from Kelung„.or rather Wan Wan,, to the effect that the French had not passed the- " Ru- bicon " oi- rather the "Wan Wan?" rapids and. were not on the high road toth&Banca plain, but: that Wan Wan: w^as in their possession^ 25th January; Calm, morning; but cloudy and raining. A gun-- boat espied in the offing; At about 10 a.m. she was. made out to be- the English gunboat Stvift. A boat came; on shore with aifew letters, but the mail, it appears^, had been landed at Taiwanfoo, as there was a doubt, about the French allowing the bags to be landed here.. It was disappointing not to get letters, and again no stores for the community. We, believe that stores are: [ 104 j actually refused in Amoy, excepting for the Cockchafer. Is this sort of thing to go on for ever? If so, the sooner a vessel is sent across the channel to take us away the better. No use staying here if Formosa is to be treated as a second Madagascar. An English gentleman applied to the commander of t\v& Siwi/tio-Aay for a passage, but it was refused. If we want to get out of it, it would appear that we must not expect to be taken by English men-of-war. How then are we to leave, in case of need ? Our position here is almost intolerable, and we cannot expect it to be bettered unless English naval vessels visiting the place are given to understand that it is their duty to render assistance in every way to English residents in Tamsui, as well as the officers and crew of the CocJichafer. 26th January. There was a bit of a sea on the bar this morning, but the launch with the mails got out safely, but was unable to go alongside the Stoift on account of the lumpy sea. Soon after 10 a.m. the Swift was seen steaming for the south again. The Duguay-Trouin arrived, making three ships outside. The Bwift brought on no "mail," and very few stores for the Cockchafer s crew, so that every one will be extra short of everything for another month or so. Fortunately for every one an enterprising Chinese store- keeper managed to get across some flour which will keep us going for a few weeks, but the price asked is high, $4 per bag ,- regular famine rates are ruling now. The same individual got over a few piculs of potatoes and demands $7.20 per picul for them. Kerosine oil has jumped up from say, $2 to $5 per case. CaBdles can't be got. Matches have gone up 100 per cent. Fowls and almost all articles of food are 30 to 40 per cent, dearer than they were a few months back. 27th, 28th, 29th, and 30th January. Strong winds outside. Rained and poured all these days ; the three ships outside must have had during the [ 105 ] past few days anything but an agreeable time of it. There is very little doubt from the rumours received from Kelung that fighting of more than an ordinary kind has taken place during the past seven or eight days, and that the French have had the best of it. General Soon went up the river five or six days ago, and left for the front with more troops to support the Militia and Hill- men who have been carrying on a sort of guerilla war in the hills in the neighbourhood of Wan Wan, and Niakah or Liangkah for the past month or two. Soldiers from the Tamsui garrison have been sent to the scene of operations, and such is the consternation at head-quarters that liu Ming-chuan is reported to have despatched orders to Chang-wha city, a walled town 70 miles to the south of Tamsui (situated almost in N. lat. 24), for reinforcements. Rumour states that more Prench troops have ar- rived at Kelung, and that the total number must be five thousand, if not six thousand, of all kinds. Chinese report that the French troops advancing in the direction of Wan (called often " Luan Luan ") are small men, very dark complexioned, and very smart on their pins. In one of the last skirmishes it is said these dark soldiers did not remove the bodies of their comrades who were killed ; so that they could not be Frenchmen, it was thought ! A few days ago, a report came down the river that two foreigners had tnrned up at T'ai-peh-fu, the new city, close to Twatutia. They had come up overland from south, having been landed somewhere on the coast. 31st January. More rumours from Wan Wan -. fighting going on every day. The rain has been rather against the Hillmen r the water runs down the barrels of their matchlocks and enters the priming pan and damps the powder ; the lighted piece of bark cord which they wear round their wrist gets damj) from constant exposure and goes out. L 106 J and it is said tliat many of the weapons won't go off when required, which must be rather awkward on oc- casions. 3rd February. Four ships outside ; the weather looks brighter. We have seen very little of the sun for the past six or seven days. A report came down the river to-day that General Soon had not gone to the front as was supposed, there being no necessity, the Chinese troops having mustered very strongly in the neighbourhood of Wan Wan and checked the progress made' by the French. It is the general opinion here that if the French take Tamsui and subsequently Tai-peh-fu and Twatutia they will re- quire at least 10,000 men (ten thousand), to hold the northern end, of the island. Kelung. is rapidly becom- ing Frenchified, if all the reports are true, one or two storekeepers having started there, and a restaurant is said to be existence. There is a report that opium out of junks captured on the coast has found buyers there. Some very valuable cargoes of opium, &c.., must have been captured in the south, where no end of junks have been trying to run the blockade. A lot of junkmen taken to Kelung to work at the roads, &c., made their escape, after attacking the sentries. Some of the men belonged to junks captured on the south-west coast. The soldiers, it is said, are going to keep China New Year's- Day a few days in advance so as not to be caught napping on the day itself. 4th February. Ona of the four ships outside left in the morning, and one arrived, supposed to be the Atalante. In the afternoon. La Galissonniere, Admiral Lespes' flagship, got up steam and went round to Kelung. 6th, 6th, and 7th February. Rain during the past three days; a north-easter brewing. Another French vessel arrived. They all r 107 ] anchor further north now. It is said the Prench have lost a good many anchors outside since the blockade. Three ships outside. 9th February. Chinese troops are out in force this morning, on the spur of the hill leading from the Ta-tem hill to Kantao, some four to five miles up the river. After leaving Piatao, which is a mile up the river from the Custom House, the river widens considerably for the next three miles or more, and then it gradually nari'ows at Kantao, forming a sort of pass, Kantao being on the northern shore and Siatao the end of a spur on the southern side running down from the South Hill. Just past Kantao, the river enters what is called the Banca plain. The pass of Kantao is about half way up the river, between Hubei and Twatutia. In the neighbourhood of Kantao and Siatao (pronounced See-ah-tow) there are, on the spurs of hills running down to the pass on both sides of the river, several small stone foi'tiffcations, and on the northern or Kantao side there is a large entrenched camp. This morning the troops left this camp and marched across country, extending their line for a mile or more, across towards the North Hill, At this second line of defence, there will be some hard fighting even after Hiibei is taken, especially if the Chinese fortify this part of the country, which they appear to be doing. The Chinese are said to have come into possession of several Catling guns, but this is a mere rumour. 10th, 11th February. A steamer very like a Messageries boat passed the port. Constant rain. 12th February. Three ships outside. First fine day we have had for a long time. The appearance of the sim again makes us almost forget our troubles. In the afternoon a three- masted schooner from the south sailed across the en- trance of the river, and after getting well to the north [ 108 ] she turned round and tacked towards the French vessels, anchoring not very far from one of them. 13th February. Another disagreeable day of wind and rain. The three-masted schooner still alongside one of the French ships. Supposed to be an English vessel. Rumour says there are over twenty French vessels at Kelung. H. B. M.'s Consul and two or three of the com- munity visited Twatutia to-day in a steam launch, re- turning at noon, with a small mail from Taiwanfoo. We fear nothing can be done until April, when we shall have a calm sea outside. 14th February. A Consular mail was despatched overland to Tai- wanfoo to-day. Another rainy, dull day. Three French ships outside, and the three-masted schooner ; the latter is dragging her anchors and drifting south. There is a heavy sea rolling. The bad weather experienced during the latter end of January and all the- present month (one north-east gale following another so closely as not to allow the sea to calm down) has prevented any attempt at a landing on the pai't of the French. To attempt anything of the sort in foreign boats in such weather would be sheer madness, and even in native surf boats, with high sterns and long steering oars, and with skilful native boatmen to manage them, the undertaking would be hazardous, and few men if any would reach the shore. The result of this compulsory inactivity is a dearth of events worth recording. 1 5th February. Dull bleak day ; heavy sea outside. The three French ships rolling tremendously. The three-masted schooner started dragging again right across the en- trance and towards the south end of the bar, where she pulled up towards evening and hoisted her fore and aft sails. [ 109 ] During the past week or two one or two Tamsui and Cockchafer sport have been out "gunning" in the neigh- bourhood of the Downs, accompanied by native soldiers lent for the occasion. The novelty of finding themselves beyond the prison limits all foreigners have been com- pelled to live within for so long must have added an additional zest tq the pleasurable sensation of knocking over a snipe or two. 16th February. One of the French ships and the mysterious schoo- ner disappeared either in the night or early this morn- ing; most likely they have gone to Kelung. The ar- rival of another French steamer in the afternoon kept the number of the blockading vessels unchanged. Yesterday (Chinese New Year's Day) and to-day passed off quietly and without the usual noisy accoiu- paniments of crackers from morning till night. Very few guns and very few crackers were heard. The natives were not so free with their presents as in more prosper- our and peaceful times. Many of the poorer people in the HAbei market place must have found it very difficult to scrape together sufficient cash to do the thing pro- perly at this festive season. The blockade must have lessened the earnings of the coolie class considerably, for there have been no steamers to load and discharge, and fishing out at sea (the occupation of many), must have been greatly interfered with. On the other hand, num- bers of them may have found employment in the erection of batteries and making of roads. The shopkeepers of Hubei must have missed the presence in more ways than one of the numerous junks which annually arrive from the coast in the North East monsoon, and anchor oppo- site the town. The Hubeites are, however, infinitely better off than the Kelung people, most of whom, if all is true one hears on the subject, have been turned out of house and home. [ no ] 17th February. Nothing but rain all the livelong day. Three ships still outside. Chinese say that the French are fortifying Kelung, making it a regular " Gibraltar of the Ear East." General Soon's troops are hard at work at Tamsui strengthening their old position near the Pilot Village, although the weather is frightfully wet, and life on the downs must be all that is implied and meant by the word " execrable ;" yet the health of the troops is better than during the warm, sunshiny bright weather of Octo- ber and November. I8th February. Cold, bleak day ; Therm. 57 in the shade. Bar., 30.65. Blowing a gale of wind. 19th Febmary. Another cold day, without rain. Four ships out- side. Chinese working like bees at the fortified camps, all along the spur of the North Hill leading to Kantao. They say they have Krupp guns mounted in one or two positions. There must be about 2,000 men at work in the neighbourhood of Kantao. Evon after Tamsui is taken, the French will meet with a good deal of op- position before entering the Banca plain. 20th February. News has come from Wan Wan that there had been an engagement on Chinese New Year's day (15th), and that there had been losses on both sides, neither of the belhgerents, however, gaining any material advantage. The Chinese for several days have been loading a big junk with large stones, and this morning at 10 o'clock they took her down to the bar and sank her, right in sight of the French ships. Every one expected to see the French fire on the sampans which accompanied the junk, on her last voyage, but nothing took place. La Galissonniere returned from Kelung. There are now six men-of-war outside. r 111 ] 2rst February. General Soon turned out very early this morning and had a look at the French fleet outside, there being six vessels yesterday to the north of the entrance. The Chinese have got it into their heads that a landing will be attempted to-day. Rumour states that there are seventeen ships-of-v^ar at Kelung and ten steam launches. In these times a ship of any kind would be magnified into an ironclad. 22nd February. A cold, cloudy day. Chinese troops on the alert, and several hundred at work not far from where the French landed on the 8th October. The Vipere came round from Kelung way in the morning, and a lot of signalling followed. I^he then left again for Kelung. In the afternoon a vessel, supposed to be the fillars, left her anchorage and gradually came closer and closer inshore. Her movements were watched with curiosity. Suddenly, at half-past three, white smoke was seen issuing from her starboard side, and a few seconds afterwards a well known sound was heard, which made us all think that now, at last, the French were going to liberate us from the " blocus " state after just four months' ex- perience of its melancholic effects. Soldiers were seen hurrying along the road leading towards the Pilot Vil- lage, others towards the earth batteiy, and the various camps on the downs were alive with excitement. The report of the gun was heard as far as Kantao Pass, five miles up the river, and the soldiers there were seen on the walls of their new fortifications. In a minute or two, another shot followed, and the Villars seemed to be getting closer and closer to the shore. Her progress was slow and in a northerly direction. She fired in all six guns at long intervals, and then rounded and steamed back again, taking up a position to the south of all the other ships. The sea was rather rough at the time of the firing, which may account for one of her shells find- I 112 J ing its way on to the Downs, falling into some paddy fields not far from the Cemetery, and whisthng over the head of a foreigner who was out after snipe. Two other gentlemen were in the neighbourhood of the Pilot Vil- lage, taking a stroll; it is needless to say that they strolled home a little quicker than usual, trying all the time to make themselves believe that they were not hurrying at all. 23 rd February. Only four ships outside ; foggy seaward ; drizzling all the morning, finishing up with a wet afternoon. One of the dreariest days since the establishment of the " blocus." Every one out of everything now ; nothing to drink but tea ; all foreign drinkables finished. No- thing to smoke either but " Blocus Mixture," made principally of native tobacco leaf. 2>4th February. Rained all day. Heavy squalls during the night. Five French ships outside during the day, one being, it is thought, the Vipere. J up iter Pluvius is giving us a real benefit. We have had very few fine days for the past month and more. It is reported that the Chinese have found the head of the French officer who fell on the Downs in the engagement of the 8th October last. The head was buried at Banca ; the body on the Downs, it is supposed. General Soon is in great force just now, and gives out that the Chinese will open the port to trade again in April, His opinion is that the Chinese fleet will sweep the French fleet out of Tamsui and Kelung waters, 25th February. Nothing but rain and wind. Bar. 30.55, Therm. 58, at noon. The Galissonniere and Vipere left during last night, and the Buguay-Trouin and Vipere returned. Still five ships oatside. Weather very boisterous. It is impos- L 113 j sible to give any idea of the miserable life we are leading here, and instead of things improving, they seem to be getting worse and worse every month. 26th February. Not so much rain to-day. Only four vessels out- side ; how they come and go in this wretched weather, and why they come and go is a perfect mystery. It has "been nothing but coming and going since the middle of October last. Very amusing to outsiders, no doubt, but we insiders are sick of it all. Chinese say the French are not yet in possession of the village of Wan Wan. It is also reported that the French have evacuated one or two of their advanced posts. It has rained almost inces- santly for the past six weeks at Kelung. Not a nice time of the year for camping out on the jungly hills be- tween Wan Wan and Kelung. 27th, 28th February. Events are scarcely worth recording just now, as the French appear to be inactive both at Tamsui and Kelung. The weather is comparatively calm. Only the Villars and Atalante are outside. The latter discharged one shot during the afternoon, at some Chinese soldiers it is supposed. No damage was done. The Buguay-Trouin made tracks in the forenoon. 1st March. Calm, warm day ; Therm. 64 degrees. As the Galissonniere and one or two other vessels have cleared out lately, the Chinese have a notion that they have gone south to take the Pescadores ; others think they have gone to Foochow to look up the Chinese fleet, which is said to be there. 2nd March. The Atalante and Villars the only vessels outside. Some eight or ten steam-launches were seen to the north about Fold Point, so Chinese report. It is known that there were a lot round at Kelung. . The latest from [ 114 J Kelung is that there were only three ships there. There is a rumour flying round that the Pescadores are to be taken and.Amoy blockaded. From what quarter such rumours emanate it is difiicult always to tell. General Li, who has been promoted to his pre- sent rank for gallantry displayed on the 8th October last, and who is second in command at Hubei under General Soon, called to-day on board H.M.S. Cockchafer and received a salute of three guns on the occasion. A report came down the river a few days ago that a very high official had arrived from the coast by junk with several hundred soldiers, and that a good number of troops were to follow him. The official is said to be of higher rank than the Imperial Commissioner, General Liu Ming-chuan. There is evidently a lot of blockade running going on down in the neighbourhood of the Pescadores. There are several Chinese ports to the north of Taiwanfoo, higher up than Kok-si-kon, in the latitude of Portachui and to the north as far as the Wonkan shoals, where junks can run to in strong north- east gales, and where no French gunboats even could follow. Many of the junk anchorages on the West Coast are formed by sand banks, inside which they can sail at top of high water, many of the inlets being per- fectly dry at low water. These sand harbours run in- land a long way from deep sea water, and even supposing there was water enough, the navigation is quite un- known to foreigners, excepting perhaps to a few old schooner captains of the Roper, Morrison, a^d Sullivan type. 3rd March. Great improvement in the weather; no rain or wind. Between nine and ten o'clock in the forenoon H.M.S. Sivift was seen steering straight for the port. She steamed alongside the Atalante, and after com- municating she moved on towards Kelung. Of course there was a good deal of excitement on shore, as five [ 115 ] weeks had elapsed since the last visit of the Swift. Every one longed for news and letters, and as we were all completely out of everything it was hoped that cer- tain stores would find their way on shore. Living almost entirely on the produce of the country was be- coming really too awfully monotonous ! In the after- noon the Sioift returned and at the same time a French ship of quite a new type turned up. The day was the hottest experienced this year, the thermometer in the shade being 70 degrees. Outside the bar it was as calm as a millpond, and the launch went out and returned after sunset with letters and stores for the Cockchafer and a mail at last for the poor insignificant merchants. Admiral Lesp^s seems not to have made any objection to the delivery of mail letters on this occasion, for which we are extremely grateful to him. No time was given to reply to letters ; off" went the letter bags before you could masticate your mail matter. Every- thing seems to be done in such an extraordinary way, one can't help grumbling ! One would think that Tamsui was a plague -stricken country, and that after landing a few letters and stores, the best thing to do was to get clear away from the place. Perhaps the idea is a correct one, but as we are only visited once in every four or five weeks, time might be given to us to reply to our letters. We should then have nothing to complain of. 4th March. Foggy morning. Swift got away last night. Ru- mours from Kelung that fighting was going on there. Chinese state that General Liu Ming-chuan has been denounced for having " bolted " from Kelung and for giving the place up to the French without a proper fight. A mandarin ranking higher than General Liu has arrived from the North, with full powers, and it is said [ no ] that this mandarin has ordered Liu and his troops to Kelung with instructions to retake the place. It is said that if Liu does not succeed, he will be degraded. Three French ships outside. 5th March. Only two ships outside this morning, the Atalante and a black looking craft; the smart looking Villars has vamosed. The climate has changed of late, getting much warmer. It is said that a great many northern soldiers have lately arrived from the south of the island, many of them having been landed on the south-east coast and marched across country to Takao, and thence overland to Banca. The Chinese must be thirty thou- sand strong at the very least in the neighbourhood of Wan Wan, and in the -Banca plain and at Hubei. In putting the total number down at 30,000 we do not think we are over-estimating it at all. A big steamer looking like a French mail boat passed the port to-day on her way south. The news is pretty generally known here now that Admiral Courbet is flying round at sea and has succeeded in sinking two Chinese men-of-war with torpedo boats. There was an " assault at arms " this afternoon. All the blue jackets and marines of the Cockchafer were on shore, and the time passed away very pleasantly in watching the various pitched battles between bayonet and sword and bayonet v. bayonet. There were other feats, such as throwing a 241b. shot. A stalwart marine of the name of Foster, hailing from London town, beat all his competitors hollow, many of them being West country men and good men to boot. The distance thrown was 35 feet 2 inches. There was a very exciting tournament which afforded great amusement. Two of the strongest men carried on their shoulders two knights in armour each holding a long bamboo. The bugle sounded the charge and the combatants rushed furiously at each other. There was no mistake about the intention of [ 117 J the knights; they rode straight at each other full tilt, and in one encounter a marine of the name of Hampson, mounted on the shoulders of Foster, planted his bam- boo spear right in the breast of his opponent, and un- horsed him as clean as the Arthurean knights of old would have done. It was a pretty hard afternoon's work, what with bayonet exereise-, single sticks, cutting bars of lead with a cutlass, &c. The day's fun on shore was wound up by a tug--of-war between the starboard and port watches, and then the foreign community challenged the Cockchafer s men, and, much to the astonishment of the land lubbers-, they dragged their opponents twice out of three tugs across the line, which proves without doubt that the- unfortunate Tamsuities are made- of pretty good stuff and are-, after all the rough treatment, in very good fettle !' 6th March. To-day the Chinese hoisted on a bamboo pole a black flag on an exposed point near the Pilot Village. It is said to be a challenge to the French, to come on ! Another fine bright day; only one French ship outside. No end of rumours from Keluiig ; that there has been a severe battle is undoubted. Chinese make no mystery about it, and from all that can be learnt, a good many Chinese have been killed and the French have taken one or two positions from them of some conse- quence. It is impossible to get at the truth of these reports, but there has been fighting of more than an or- dinary kind, and it would appear that the French have gained some advantage. Later news may contain fuller details, and several grains of truth, it is to be hoped. 7th March. Fine weather. Three ships outside-. The late fighting at Wan Wan is the- great topic of conversation just now. Over and over again during the past few months it has been reported that the French had taken the place, full details ip connection with the capture [ ns ] having been given by the inventors, the number of kill- ed and vpounded have been stated, and various circum- stances in connection with the capture have all been entered into most minutely. The story is believed for a day or two, then another version is started, contradict- ing in every way all former reports. Sometimes there are different stories going at once, all emanating from well-known sources at Hubei, and nine times out of ten they are pure fabrications. It would appear, however, that the late news from Wan Wan is really true, and that there has been some serious fighting there, result- ing in the killing and wounding of about 1,000 Chinese. The first news that arrived stated that some 400 men had been killed, but as far as we can understand the fighting has been continued for a few days and that now the Chinese adifciit that their losses are fully 1 ,000 killed and wounded. - The French are said to have pushed forward -three thousand men, and that the Chinese com- menced the attack. All the available Chinese troops were sent to the front, the idea being to drive the French out of Kelung, the instructions given to Liu Ming-chuan being to retake Kelung. The gallant veteran commanded the troops in person, it is said, but was again unsuccessful At the back of the village of Wan Wan there is a curiously shaped hill ; the sides are almost perpendicular and the top is as flat as a table, and is covered with tea plantations. It is in a mtost commanding position, and we are rather of an opinion that the occupation of this *' Majuba hill " by the Chinese hiMmen and soldiers has checked the progress of the French in the direction of Wan Wan more than anything else. In addition to this hill, which overlooks and protects Wan Wan, there were, it is said, several fortified encampments, each en- campment said to contain five hundred men. The I'rench are reported to have carried the " Majuba hill "' by storm, and then turned their attention to> the en- [ 119 J campments. These details ai-e from Chinese sources ; not very reliable. One source states that four encamp- ments were taken ; another declares that seven were successfully carried. This- would imply that at the least 3,500 men had been- driven away from their entrenched positions, out of which number 1,000 were placed hors de combat. This engagement is-, decidedly, the most im- portant one- that has: taken place since the 1st October last, when General Liu had to retire- from the heights above Kelung harbour and retreat towards Liangkah and Wan Wan. If it is true-that the Chinese commenced the fight — with a, determination of recapturing' Kelung, — and that on this occasion they put forth all their strength, they must now- see the utter futility of fighting against foreign trained soldiers. Chinese say that the troops engaged were composed of some three or four hundred- Wan Wan men, and of some 6,00 Tchiu Ten-kah mili- tiamen, a few hundred Hakka Hillmen, and the rest well armed regulars, many of them late arrivals from the south of the island. The- Wan Wan and Tchiu Ten- kah men suffered most, several, hundred being killed, the remainder seeking safety in flight. These local militia- men were: fighting for their hearths and homes, and are to be admired accordingly, especially those who made a stand and. fell, but we do not consider it a wise policy to place such raw soldiers in the front of battle. The inhabitants of Wan Wan have left the place, it is said',, and the French are virtually in possession now of the- village and of the road leading to the Banca plain. The Chinese troops have retreated to a village called Lok Taw, composed of a few bamboo and grass shanties situated on the east bank of the rapids,. between two and' three miles to the west of Wan Wan. Here the main, army of the Chinese is reported to be stationed, and it is said they have fortified themselves very strongly. It will be here, we have no doubt, that the next battle- will take place. [ 120 J The report that a mandarin of superior rank to Liu Ming-chuan had arrived proves not to be true. 8th March. Two ships outside, one of them rather close inshore. The black flag of defi-ance (?) is still flying at the point near the Pilot Village. Many of the w.ounded are arriv- ing at Tvpatutia and Tai-peh-fu, and the news of the disastrous defeat and heavy losses at Wan Wan has created amongst the merchant and shopkeeping classes rather an uneasy feeling. The news of the defeat of the Chinese at Wan Wan is confirmed, and the losses are put down by Chinese themselves at 1,000 men killed and wounded. 9th March. Fine, cool day ; just the weather for fighting. A shot from one of the ships led us to hope that an attack might be made to-day. If Tamsui is to be bombarded again, the sooner it takes place the better. The defeat at Wan Wan is still all the talk. 10th March. Blowing strong from north-east ; only two ships outside, supposed to be the Atalante and Pillars. The- Chinese hauled down the black flag to-day. Bar. going up 30.62; Therm. 59 in the shade. 11th March. Rainy, drizzly day. Blowing very strong outside. Bar., 80.70; Therm., 65; only a few days ago it was 80 degrees. A Cricket match took place to-day. 12th March. A rainy, cold day. Therm., 56 ° ; Bar., 30.63. The Villars fired a gun soon after noon. The Cockchafers. gave a concert in the evening. 13th, 14th, and 15th March. Fine weather. Two ships outside, Nothing occurred, but a few shots on the 14th from the Atalante. On the 15th the Buc/uay-Traidn arrived. [ 1^1 ] 16th March. The British gunboat Swift arrived outside to-day. Soon after the Swift's cutter arrived in the river, it be- came pretty generally knovvoi that orders from the Ad- miral had been sent to Captain Boteler to leave Tamsui and its affairs to take care of themselves, and to proceed with all possible despatch to Hongkong. A circular was sent round to the residents stating that the Smft would take any one desirous of leaving ; and Captain Boteler, anticipating a happy release from his pre- sent awkward position, expressed also his willingness to take on board the Cockchafer any residents who cared to leave in her for Hongkong. The idea that Tamsui merchants were to be left without the protection of a naval force here was extremely startling and for a time the fact thereof could be scarcely realised. The Swift was circulated to leave early to-morrow and all those ready to go by her were given to understand that they must be ready by half-past seven in the morning. If there was no room in the foreign boats, pilot boats must be engaged, &c. We may repeat that for some weeks past the Chinese authorities have been laying down split bamboo baskets of a circular shape, each about four to five feet in diameter, full of large stones right across the narrowest part of the entrance of the river, blocking it up almost entirely, so much so that cargo boats even and gigs can only enter by certain narrow channels close inshore where of course they would be brought within close distance of the soldiers guarding both sides of the river. The Swi/t's boat came through all right, but the steam-launch belonging to iMessrs. Douglas Lapraik & Co., which has done such good service on all other similar occasions, was prevented from communicating with the Swift. Unless a passage had heen " cut " or " blown up " purposely to admit of her exit — it is doubtful whether she even would get over the obstruc- tions laid down. If therefore the launch could not go [ 122 1 out of port, it soon became apparent that the Cock- cJiafer would experience far greater difficulty. In the early part of the day and during the after- noon even it was still hoped that the Chinese authorities, who had always since the commencement of hostilities shown a very friendly feeling towards foreigners on shore would meet the views of the English Admiral by Djaking a channel for the gunboat to go through. These hopes were fondly indulged in by the gallant commander and all his officers and men and by most European residents, and it became necessary for every one to consider quickly whether to go or stop, for it was given out that if the Cockchafer could get out she would leave by the forenoon tide serving at about 11 o'clock on the following day, that is, some four hours or so after the Swift. The orders given to the Swft to take to the Cockchafer are very peremptory and no one will question the necessity which dictated them. It has, however, seemed to us most extraordinary through- out this Franco-Chinese war of reprisals, that H.M.'s gun-vessels which have been ordered to call here dur- ing the past six months (every month or so), have im- mediately after communicating with the Cockchafer and Consul exhibited an excessive desire to clear out of it again, hurrying away, often without giving time to any one to reply to inward letters of the greatest importance. The orders may be to communicate, land stores, and re- tire rapidly; but it is rather hard on shore people notwith- standing, and in the present instance of the Swiff s visit and the offer to take us away should any one be disposed to leave, makes it all the harder still. Who, with the short notice given, with properties in charge of Chinese up the river, and produce, &c., stored in godowns at Tamsui, could so arrange his affairs as to leave with barely twenty hours' notice? Only one gentleman could get away, and it was by the merest chance that he managed to get off in the Cockchafer's boat. There would have [ 123 J been a difficulty about obtaining a pilot boat or any other boat, and no arrangement whatever was made by the Consul with the authorities, as far as we know about pilot boats taking off residents anxious to leave by the Swift. It was a very difficult matter to decide even whether to leave a few hours later in the Cockchafer, the feeling of the residents generally could not be readily ascertained, so it was proposed that a meeting should be held for the purpose at 9 p.m. Just as the meeting was opened news came that General Soon had forbidden the removal of obstacles placed in the river until authority could be received from Liu Ming-chuan, who was in the neigh- bourhood of Wan Wan. It was soon, however, ascertained that the Customs people were unable to leave without orders from the Inspector-General, and that Consul Frater had decided not to leave until the Swift returned with telegraphic orders from Peking, &c. We were notwithstanding given to understand that if it were possible for the Cockchafer to get across the bar — of course with the knowledge and sanc- tion of the Chinese authorities — she would leave Tamsui as speedily as possible for Hongkong. It is doubtful whether the merchant element would be able or willing to get away. No one felt more puzzled than they how to act — to get away by the Sioift on the follow- ing morning at 7 o'clock, finding your way over the bar as best you could, was simply next to impossible, and to make necessary arrangements with up-river agents, &c., &c., and to clear out with a trunk and box of business books only by the Cockchafer would be an extraordinary procedure on the part of any one entrusted with pro- perties, which he had no orders to desert in such a carpet bag sort of way. It is true that nearly every one has sent in to the Consul inventories of all articles of pro- duce, &c., stored in godowns, as well as of furniture and personal effects, but leaving these suddenly in the hands of Chinese employes, would create a sort of panic [ 124 ] amongst them, and unless H.B.lVL.'s Consul had made special arrangements with the authorities to have guards placed in our houses and godowns, it would be tempting certain Celestials with no very decided opinions about mewm and tuimi to take an early opportunity of selecting for themselves anything or everything that struck their fancies. The Chinese prevented robbery and looting at Kelung after foreigners had left up to the time that the French took possession of Kelung and drove them away from the neighbourhood of foreign hongs, and we believe they are able to do the same at Hubei as they did at Kelung and have done at Twatutia since the bombard- ment of Tamsui. There was, however, no notice that special protection would be given to properties, &c., by the Chinese Authorities in the event of merchants leaving by the Swift or Cockchafer. As, however, the Cockchafer cannot get out of port until the blockade is raised or Tamsui taken, or a pass- age is made for her through the obstacles on the bar, there is no necessity just at present to refer further to the subject ; sufficient for the day is the evil thereof. If the Cockchafer is allowed to cross the bar, some of us who are anxious to leave our prison at all risks, may be happy yet, especially if time is given to arrange matters. Tamsui, 17th March. The Cockchafer s boat took the only passenger over the bar this morning and the Sivift got underweigh for Hongkong very early. The French must know that the Cockchafer has orders, as they seem to be on the alert more than usual. Fighting is reported in the neighbourhood of Kimpaoli, i.e., somewhere amongst the hills between Kimpaoli and Kelung rapids. 18th March. The French are on the qui vive this morning. A gunboat like the Vipere or Li/nx came round from Ke- lung and had a good look at the bar. It is supposed [ 1^5 J that she came round purposely to see if the Coclcliafer would get out, with a view perhaps of slipping into ])ort at the same time. Of course the time of departure would be top of high water about noon or a little be- fore. The movements of the Vipere created some sensa- tion on shore and more than ever decided the authorities that the Cockchafer must stay where she is. General Soon, it is said, had stated it would be impolitic to make an opening in the bar specially for the Cockchafer, and the appearance of the Vijjere bore out the correctness of his views. At about high water, 11 to 12 p.m., the electric light from the Duguay-Trouin outside played on the bar for some time, the idea being possibly that the Cock- chafer would steam out at night. Every one more dis- consolate than ever. We are in a veritable prison, and may remain here till the war is over. Rained nearly all day. 19th March. The Atalante close in shore and the Buguay-Trouin further out. 20th March. The two French ships " as they were " yesterday. The Vipere came round again from Kelung, waited till past high tide, then returned. If the Cockchafer had tried to cross the bar, what would have been the Vipere s little game ? Something dashing no doubt, but if she had succeeded in getting into port, it would have been like going into a wasp's nest bareheaded, unless a simultaneous combined movement of the two ships had been made, with another attempt at landing. Could this have been effected successfully with only the Atalante and Buguay-Trouin outside ? We think not ! 'i he Chinese on the 8th October last had only a few thousand men and two batteries, the bar was certainly blocked up, and in rear was a field of torpedoes. The French were then rcpicsented I 126 J by La Galissonniere, a host in herself, the Triomphante, Duguay-Trouin, and the Vipere, a superior force to that now available, whereas the Chinese are now stronger — ten times stronger in every way— and the French would admit the same if they could only see behind the curtain and be aware of the grand preparations that have been made for their next reception. It is one's duty to be neutral ; one must therefore perform one's duty. Did not Shakespeare somewhere write ? He said mum ! and she said Budget ! The Atalante fired to-day four or five shots ; one of them fell on the south side of the river, where no doubt it can be seen from the ship that the Chinese troops have not been idle of late. Tamsui, 21st March. Fine day. Warm and foggy out to seaward. Calm as a millpond. Only one ship outside. When will the French strike again, and where are the reinforcements that were expected? North East monsoon ; equinoctial gales are all over, it would appear. There is a summer feeling in the air. Therm. 67 deg. Bar. 30.46. 22nd March. Another fine day ; Therm. 72 deg. in the shade. The launch Alice, belonging to Messrs. Douglas La- praik & Co., took a parly up to the Sulphur Springs. The Duguay-Trouin the only ship outside. 23rd March. Bar, low, 30.32 (glass rather high set). Therm. 74^. Very hot and steamy. Only one ship outside. Just the weather for operations such as landing in boats. 24th March. Bar. 30.35. Therm. 74 deg. in the shade. The Duguay-Tmuin the only ship outside still. In the after- noon at abont 3 p.m. the Buguay-Trouin got underweigh and steamed to the northward. In an hour's time she was back again at her usual anchorage. [ 127 J 25th March. Fine but cloudy and cooler. The Buguay- Trouin and a vessel supposed to be the Volta outside. The departure of the Buguay Trouin yesterday for an hour or more only — leaving the port apparently without a guard ship for the first time since the blockade was established on 23rd October last — caused the birth of a wild report, which no one could swallow, viz., that the French were evacuating Kelung ! 26th March. Misty morning. Volta not visible. Buguay -'Drouin s well known form in her usual place. Came on to rain in the afternoon. Rained heavily all night, with thun- der and lightning. 27th March. Rained heavily all morning. Bar. up to 30.60. Therm, down to 64 deg. Only one ship outside. A vessel like the Atalante seen passing to the south. 28th March. Rain ceased in the night. Bar. 30.50. Therm. 62 deg. Buguay-Trouin the only vessel outside. A shot fired towards sunset. 29th, 30th March. Fine weather. Only the Buguay-Trouin outside in the morning, but the Volta came round for a few hours and returned to Kelung. 31st March. Very warm, uneventful day. Buguay-Trouin and Volta outside. Great scarcity of all kinds of stores ; the want of aerated waters is beginning to be felt, none hav- ing been tasted for four months and more. Not much flour left in the place. Rice and all kinds of food very dear. A bad look out if war breaks out with Russia and if we are left to live entirely on the country, and without a gunboat to look in to see whether we are alive or dead. [ 1.^8 ] 1st April. Weather bright and calm. If during the present month the French do not make any movement towards taking Tamsui, then we may make up our minds to be shut up here for a long time more. April is the month of all months in the first half of the year to disembark troops. The first three months of the year are often stormy^ and a north-easter is hable to get up any moment. April, however, is generally a calm, foggy month, but little surf as a rule, and if a north-easter does come down it is always of short duration. From May till next equinox you are never safe— young typhoons get up, often to the north, and after whisking their tails round rather smartly on occasions, they either travel down the East Coast towards Manila, or curl round the south end of the island, and across to Hongkong and Swatow, or they strike north towards Ningpo and Shanghai. We seldom experience a centre here, but we get either the tail end or a commencement or outer circle very often during the season. If one of these circular storms, with the wind strong from the North, visits the place, the French fleet must cut and run ; Nature herself will then raise the blockade of Tamsui ! If French vessels drag in a strong north-easter, what Avill they do in a tail end of a typhoon even ? The Buguay-Trouin and Volia are outside, the latter far to the north. Therm. 70 deg. Bar. 30.44. 2nd April. Beautiful day, but very warm. The Athletic Sports for the Cockchafer s marines and blue jackets came off to-day, on the Cricket Ground, a fine open space, situated close to the Cemetery, on the upland in rear of the Customs assistants' dwelling and not far from Oxford College. There were short and long distance running races, long and high jumps, throwing the cricket ball, an obstacle race, &c., &c. The courses were well marked out and everything went off well. The day's [ 129 J amusement finished up with a race between the Clerk of the Course on ponyback versus " the head of the police " mounted on a donkey. Although the donkey gave the pony about 281bs. at least in about 400 yards and received 100 yards start, in about 400 yards, the veteran C. 0. Course came in an easy winner and with bauds down. Prizes in all amounted to about $150. 3rd April. Fine, bright day. The Buguay-Trouin seemed to be very restless all to-day. She got up steam early in the morning and fired several shots to the north, one of which killed two Chinese soldiers near the earth bat* tery, knocking the head off one of them, and another projectile falling on the Cricket Ground, embedding it- self there. What a commotion there would have been, if they had fired in that direction the day before. The Cricket Ground is some distance in rear of the earth battery, and the gun must have been elevated a little too high. This desultory firing is, to say the least of it, extremely unsatisfactory; the Chinese soldiers would prefer a bombardment to these solitary reminders, we should think, though we may be quite wrong in this conjecture ! In the afternoon the Buguay-Trouin steamed down towards Namkan Point, about eight miles to the south of the entrance of the river. Something must have displeased the old Sea King again, for we distinctly heard her pounding away with her guns at either a junk or at soldiers on shore. 4th April. The Buguay-Trouin still keeps sentinel outside. It is not known for certain what she was firing at yesterday on the southern side of the river near Namkan Point. From Sand Point, the spit, at the southern entrance of the river, to Namkan, the country is called in old maps Pah-H-fun — the local pronunciation sounds very much Hke Paddy Hoon. Therm. 78 deg. in the shade. L 130 ] 5th April. Friday; calm outside. The Buyuay-Trouin peace- fully disposed to-dav. 5th, '6th April. Awfully hot. Therm. 78 again and nothing but -condensed water or tea to slake one's thirst with. Every one hoping that tlie gunboat will come Swifthj and bring a -supply of sodawater and, as the widow's cruise is out, a taste of something in the shape-of alcohol of Scotch manufacture. The British Consul went up the river to-day, with one or two Chaaszes. Musters of new teas on show. Planters getting anxious about this season's business, so also are foreigners. The country produces say 300,000 half-chests annually, equal to roughly 100,000 piculs, costing on an average |30 per picul short, -equal in value to say three millions of dol- lars. If the tea trade is stopped this year, the growers of tea will suffer, the labourers engaged in picking, cur- ing, and packing will be out of employ, and the foreign merchants, all British, will lose heavily. The Americans, who consume eleven-twelfths -of the teas grown in For- mosa, will have to go back on Amoy and Foochow Oo- longs, which will injure their palates for years to come. 7th April. Reports from Kelung state that there are only seven French ships there. We are all most anxious to hear further about European affairs. A Chinaman just arrived from Hongkong via Amoy, thence by junk to a West Coast port, reports that there were "too muchee man-of-war at Hongkong, and some man talkee England makee fightee that Loosian man.'' Of course the Sicift on her last visit brought news to same effect, but has war been declared, is almost of as much importance to us now to know, as it is to know what the French are going to do here, and when they are going to re-com- mence operations. It will to-morrow be just six montlis since they tried ineffectually to take liubei. The therm. L 131 ] is up to 80 in the shade. All are well here so far, and on that account we ought to be thankful, and must hope for the best. Hoping against hope for six months is a very wearisome occupation. The Buffway-Troidn is the only vessel outside. 8th April. The hottest day this year — 82 in the shade. The Baguay-Trouin outside. A courier arrived overland from Taiwanfoo with news that there was now no like- lihood of a war with Russia. This news is very good, if true, for perhaps the Admiral may be able to spare a gunboat to visit Tamsui once more. The intelligence of the death of Sir Harry Parkes has been received here with profound regret. 9th April. More news from Taiwanfoo that on the 28th ultimo there were two Prench vessels there off Anping, that two ironclads and a trooper arrived same day in addi- tion, and that these vessels went to Makung Bay in the Pescadores and took the place. A magazine, it is re- ported, and 500 soldiers were blown up there. Blow- ing from N.E. to-day ; quite a change ; therm, down to 70 deg.; barometer 30.50. 10th April. Beautiful day. The stone and bamboo bridge right across the entrance from Sand Point, to the Spit running out into the river the other side of the Pilot Village appears complete now, and this has been erected under the very eyes of the French ships. It is not giving information to the French, for they could not help seeing this work going on, as well as others which it is not our business to point out. The river being, spanned now by a bridge, if you may call it so, lessens the chance of a speedy release from the prison life we are leading. No news from Kelung. A gunboat passed the port to-day steering southward. If the French have taken Langson and have taken the Pes- [ 133 j cadores, and have destroyed two more Chinese men-of- war, as is reported J if, moreover, as late papers (27th February, Hongkong) report that reinforcements are near at hand, then in the next week or two we ought to expect to witness another navail display here on a larger scale than heretofore. If there is to be more fight- ing, let it come quickly. The Chinese will stand, we believe, and there will be a terrible slaughter. Life is too short ; to shake hands and be friends would be far better. All foreigners wefll here. 12th April. Beautiful weather, but hot ; Therm. 78, Bar. 30.50 ; the Duguay-Tfouin was relieved t-o-day by a vessel, name unknown. 13th April. Another fine day. A big French trooper, about the size of H.M.S. Serapis, passed the port on her way to Kelung ; her decks were covered with men. A re- port from Kelung states that on Saturday, the 11th, there were nine ships in port ^ also that Admiral Courbet had returned and issued a notification to the non-com- batant townspeople urging them to return to Keluug and to their occupations; that they would not be molested in any way, &c., &c. This report comes from Chinese sources. Two corvettes arrived this morning and there are said to be two more ships tt) the northward of the second downs. Thundering all the afternoon ; storm brewing; very hot; 'J^herm. 81. Bar. 30.40. The storm burst in the evening; the rain came down in tor- rents all night. The new ship which replaced the Bnguay-Trouin has disappeared ; a French gunboat was seen passing to the south. The Chinese say that Swatow and Amoy are now blockaded. 14th April. Raining and blowing in the morning from north- east. Cleared up towards noon. Two corvettes outside, anchored a veiy long way out. There is a bar on to- [ 133 j day. Chinese report that the- French are embarking troops at Kelung; and shipping telegraph wire, &c., &c., and are- making preperations tO' leave the place. This sounds very " official " and, tranquilhzing, too much so to be- true. What will they next circulate, when the trooper is reported to have- landed, her one thousand to fifteen hundred men, say ?. 15th April. Pine- bright day ; much- cooler after the storm ; Therm. 72 in the- shade,- Bar. S0.40.- It? is a month since i\i&- Swift was- here, her return is- anxiously looked for by alii If the news received overland from Taiwan'- foo is true, that the- Russians have withdrawn their troops from Afghanistan, in accordance with England's request, then wemay expectto be-visited again by one of H.M.'s- gun-vessels. The officers of the gunboat even have been reduced to tea for some weeks, the Swift bringing very few stores last trip. Plour will last very little longer ; the last allowance of tobacco has been served out. Food is plentiful enough, but in an ener- vating climate like that of Tamsui, something more than- tea or condensed water is required tokeepone-in health.. 16th April. Yesterday afternoon a merchant vessel was seen; steanaing towards the port; as she approached theship- ping, it was discovered to be th.e- Hailoonff . What couldi be the meaning of the- Rhiloong coming to Tamsui?' Pigs must have- declined or advanced in price, or some* thing must have happened ! The- eagle eyes of our Harbour Master are on her; he adjusts a long telescope. Steady, he says, the flags are- speaking. What do they say? what?; can it really be so? yes; no! yes! There is no doubt about it — the signal is, is,— (oh ! it is toO' much of a good thing) — oh dear ! hold me up ! gently now ! Say it again ! " The blockade is raised " ! Shouts- of gladness rent the air. Come on board the- Cockchafer; let us see what the signal man says there. Ho ! signal; [ 134 ] man, what say you ? Tom Bowling replied, "Avast there! Splice the main brace ! Yo ho, lads, ho ! By the soul of Nelson, I swear the signal runs : — " The blockade is raised ! " Hurrah ! hip, hip, hurrah ! Pipe all hands and let us be merry ! Every one echoed let's to the tune of " God save our Gracious Queen ! " The feeling of happiness has not been experienced by any of us for many weary months. We now know what the word really means. No end of main braces were spliced. The Hailoong was brought to in the usual way (a shot across her bows). She was ordered to anchor to the south of the corvette. A boat was seen to board her, and before you could say " Rule Britannia," she was off again steaming southward. 'J he news must have been news to the French even, and it is thought that the Hai- loong had been referred to Admiral Courbet, supposed to be at Makung. This morning a French vessel came from the south. An officer of the Cockchafer went out, and boarded the Magon. Letters from Admiral Courbet to the Consul and Captain Boteler were delivered. The following notification is sent round to the Residents : — Copy. H.P.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 16th Aijril, 1885. The Tindersigned has to-day received the accompanying' notifica- tion by Admiral Courbet of th© raising of the blockade of Formosa. (Sd.) A. Featbe, Oflaciating Consul. " Notification de levee de Blocus." Kous soussigne Vic© Amiral Courbet, Commandant en chef les forces Navales Francaises dans I'extreme Orient. Vules prelimmaires de paix portant armistices, qui viennent d'etre signes a Paris. Declarons. Le Blocus de la cote et de Porta de Formose est leve. A bord du Bayard. Port Makung, le 15 Avril, 1855. (Sd.) COUBBET. A trooper seen passing south ; the two corvettes disappear towards evening. Voila ! the blockade is raised ! Hoo — ray ! The Chinese officials have been informed of the armistice, but General S oon must wait for instructions. [ 135 ] The Cockchafer is in a hurry to leave, but it cannot be arranged' in a day. The officials must be allowed to masticate the news. The Namoa is expected, and Chi- nese official despatches may arrive by her. Then the bar may be opened, the link between us and the outer world' may be joined once more. We have the chains around us yet, as to speak,, but we know that the shack- les will be broken soon, and that we shall be free. M'hat a depth of meaning there is in that little word " free !" Events are nearly at end, now that the French ships have cleared out", but we will continue them unt 1 matters have settled d6wn and trade is resumed here ; then it wilt be time to dtop tbe pen and go on in the •usual way, hoping that for the next decade at least the peace and comfort of Britisb residents here will not be disturbed by our Gallic friends again. They have made a most frightful mess of this Formosa business — which nobody can deny !. I7th April. No' signs- of the Cockchafer getting up steam. General' Soon will not open the port yet. Instructions must come from his own Government, not from the French. Admiral Courbet's correspondence and noti- fications have been communicated to him, and the I'rench ships have' departed: The French Admiral esta- blished the blockade and now notifies its removal.. "Le blocus de la cote^et dc ports de Formose est leve," what is clearer than that ? We always thought that red-tape- was a monopoly of English Government officials. We now believe that China was the birthplace of Red Tapeism, and that it travelled in a westerly direction. It amounts to this, that the Cockchafer is detained at Tamsui at a time when her services arc urgently required elsewhere. What has become of the Hailoong ? and where is the Namoa, which was said, to be on her way to Tamsui ? It is blowing a north- [ 136 ] eastor, which makes it cooler and pleasanter. Our patience has been tried for months, the " blocus " has stopped all trade for close on six months, and now that it has been raised by the French, the Chinese keep the port closed, stopping trade as much as ever. Who will compensate us for all the loss sustained at Keluiig since the 1st August last and at Twatutia since the 1st Octo- ber ? On the strength of our Treaty with China, Bri- tishers settle down at the ports in Formosa, invest large sums of money in houses, godowns, and tea hongs ; they assist in building up a trade which brings money into this part of the Empire of China and adds to the revenue more and more every year. Without any warning, trade is stopped, foreigners have to leave Kelung, afterwards Twatutia, and business comes to a stand for eight months at Kelung and six months at Twatutia. Some one, either the French or Chinese, ought to be called on to indemnify us. We are allowed by Treaty to trade here ; it was no fault of ours that the war was waged. The trade was stopped by the belligerents, therefore the belligerents ought to recoup us for loss of business. If not, it would appear to us that w© are trading here under false pretences and under the terms of a Treaty which can be abrogated in part by any nation choosing to pick up a quarrel with China. Of course such matters are for the consideration of ike Higher Authorities and they will be guided by international laws and customs. No one here, we are certain, would beg for an indemnity, but if we are entitled to or have a right to any compensation for loss of business, the higher authorities will settle the question no doubt in our favour. If our properties had been destroyed by the Chinese or French, we should have been paid ; therefore, if our business is destroyed temporarily, ought we not to be paid for the loss thereof likewise ? The destruction of a house or godown is a trifle compared with the stoppage of one's business. [ 13T ] 18th April. Still blowing from, the north-east. Ther. 73, Bar. 30.41. No ship outside. The bamboo bridge across the river is rapidly disappearing ; after the heavy rain a few nights back, part of it gave way, and was seen floating up the river past the gunboat. Notwithstanding that "Blocus est leve," the Chinese soldiers were seen yester- day on the south side of the river at an obstruction in course of erection at Sand Point, The Customs hoisted their flag on the 1 6th, and the same day General Soon's flag was seen flying over what is called his headquarters. 19th, 20th April. No occurrence of any importance beyond the arrival of the Hailoong and Namoa. No end of mails have come on shore, amongst them the Wanderer s lost mail. Let- ters bearing date November and December only to hand now. The Cockchafer will leave us soon. General Soon will give orders to have an opening made for her. They will probably remove certain torpedoes likewise. Tea is being shipped over the bar, and cargo is being landed from both steamers. The Chinese are rather suspicious about the French ; the port will not be regularly opened to admit vessels until the Treaty is signed. After the Cockchafer leaves the bar will be blocked up again ; only a small space will be left for cargo boats. The prospects of peace have created quite an excitement here, and it is sincerely to be hoped that the Treaty will be signed and that the war will end. 21st April. It oame on to blow a little and boats had to knock off work alongside the Namoa and Hailoong. The Cockchafer ran up her blue peter soon after 1 p.m., and at about 3 p.m. she steamed slowly out of port; passing through an opening in the bamboo bridge, going very gingerly over the sunken junks and torpedoes, and ti.nally got over the bar, when up went her sails, and the last we saw of her was steaming and sailing before L 138 ] a nortli-cast breeze direct for Hongkong. As she left her anchorage flags were dipped, cannon were fired, in reply to which the signal went up " Adieu." The Cockchafer has been here very nearly nine months ; all on: board were glad to get out of Tamsui ; all on shore felt very sorry at their departure. The Namoa and Hailoong- are both postponed till to-morrow. Foreig- ners are thinking of going up the river to-morrow. Tea is beginning to come down very freely now, but how we are to pack the teas is the difficulty. The following notice was issued to-day : — (Copy.) Notice. H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamstji, 20th April, 1885. The undersigned yesterday received instructions fi-om H.M.'s Minister at Peking to inform the British subjects at this port that tha French G.overument having notijSed their intention to treat as contraband rice destined for Chinese ports north of Canton, H.M.'s Government have inform-ed the French Government that they do not admit the right of the latter to treat rice generally as contraband. Lest it may be thought that the above information is now need- less the undersigned has to state that the French Government have instructed Admiral Courbet to preserve during- the present. armistice the right to search Chinese and neutral vessels and to seize rice and contraband of war. (Sd.) A. Fratbr, OfB.ciating Consul. 23rd April. Blowing still, and the Namoa and Hailooiig are detained in consequence. Cargo from steaiuers going up the river, and junks which have been lying idle for over six months are now preparing to go to sea. Soldiers ai'e kept at work still ; the few one meets have a merry twinkle in their eyes, as much as to say, we have " seen " them and '■ raised " them. There were demonstrations of joy up at Twatutia by the Chinese shopkeepers when the news of the armistice arrived, but down here there have been none whatever. We trust that the papers will leave the French and Chinese alone, and not lash the former into fury, and so cause more bloodshed. Foreigners are going back to Twatutia [ 139 j again. NeA? teas are arriving freely. Rice has been very dear, and the poorer class of Chinese have suffered a good deal ; the wealthy holders running the price up more and more daily. We understand their rapacity was checked or was going to be checked by the man- darins, a fixed price being made, more than which they were not to be allowed to demand. Now that the port is opened the price will decline naturally. If the war had lasted much longer, riots in the country would have taken place, it is said — ^the poor v. the rich. All this will be obviated now, and we trust things will settle down into the old groove and that peace and quietness will reign once more. There are, it is said, one French prisoner at Banca and two or there deserters at Tai-peh-fii. The deserters are said to belong to the Foreign Legion. They get $30 per month, I am told. The prisoner at Banca gets $8 per month and amuses himself by cleaning guns. A Customs ofKcer went up to Lok-taw a few days back, and although the Chinese soldiers would have it that he was a Frenchman, they were kind and civil to him, allowing him to visit Wan Wan and go about wherever he liked. 24th April. In the afternoon the M'ind rose again, and cai'go boats communicating with the ships outside had trouble in getting back again to port. Two steam-launches were sent out, the Tong Sing and Alice, to assist in towing boats into port : the little Alice and a cargo boat went to leeward of the port and could not fetch up. It is to be hoped that they will run into Namkan creek if the tide is high enough (for it is a tidal creek), or if not that the sea will not be too high to permit of their striking further south and entering the Hungmao (Hungmowj river, which is north of Heongsan, the port of Teuck- cham and a little south of Paksa Point and Table Hill — well-known names to captains of steamers in the Tamsui [ 140 j trad'©. As a rure, the weather in April is not so boister- ous, and north-easters last but for a day or two. This year we^ have^ had a succession of northerly winds, with intervals of comparatively fine weather, to be succeeded by another few hours of rude Boreas. One trouble dis- appears, another foltows ; everything seems to go against the opening of the bar.. It is to be hoped that the obs- tructions on the> bar, the torpedoes, and bamboo raft- bridgewill soon become things of the past. The Chinese authorities have a perfect right to guard the entrance and to take' every precaution to keep the enemy out until the Treaty is signed, and we- admire their perspicacity. We also now think that the Tape is not quite so red as else- where,, for, within the' past day or two, the authorities have done eyerythisng they possibly could to fall in with the views of merchants and shipping agents to facilitate the ingress and egress, of foreign as well as native craft. Preparations are' made, however, to close the port again with very little notice: The native authorities here are undoubtedly veiy friendly inclined towards Britishers, and although they may at times have had a lurking suspicion that — blood beisng thicker than water, — we were spies or friends of the French, and not equally friendly with them, they must have seen that whatever our inward feelings may on o(;casions have been, we were fellow sufferers with them, and were strictly neutral really at heart. During the bombardment time we were in an awkward position, and there was a lack of confidence in the power of the mandarins to keep order, but we learned in the course of a few months to regard the arrangements made by the Chinese officials with con- fidence and have not found our reliance at all misplaced. At the commencement of hostilities this feeling was not possessed by any one, and arrangements were made ac- cordingly, and very prudently so; but now, and for some months past, we have considered ourselves as secure from all danger and from all insult or injury as if we had been [ 141 1 in Regent-street in broad daylight with a posse of police at our heels. When the officials like to keep order and peace, they can ! We have been in more danger from French projectiles than anything else, which every one will admit, but when reprisals are to be made by one nation against another, the non- combatants and neutrals must necessarily come in for a large share of risk The friendly feel- ing between Chinese and foreigners exists openly still, but there must be an undercurrent of ill- feeling lurking in the breasts of many who have suifered by the action of the French at Kelung, Wan Wan, and elsewhere. The distinction between Frenchmen and other foreigners here has been more clearly defined since the troubles of October last, and the officials have done their best to make known to the soldiers and people that British and other foriegners here have no part in the dis- pute between France and China. When peace is dec- lared and the treaty is signed we trust that the military authorities will keep the troops and populace in order as well as they have done during the troublous times lately passed through. China must now see that her best friend is England, and that she could not.possibly secure a more sincere ally. The designs of the French and Russian nations on China or territory bordering on China is visible to anyone in the East, but England with all her capacity for annexation, &c., has proved that al- though she has waged war on occasion against China, has dictated strong terms often, and has had it in her power to dismember certain portions of her territory, she has never taken extreme advantage of her position be- yond extracting Treaty rights, advantageous to all Western nations alike. After peace was declared and treaties were signed, Tom Sayers and Heenan, the cele- brated pugilists, could not, after pounding each other's faces into pulp, have given a truer shake of the hands than that England gave to China. Even when the last [ 142 J war was going on, English officers were fighting her battles against the Taiping Rebels, and by their action more than anything else the rebelHon was quelled and the present dynasty upheld. Whether the policy was good or not remains to be seen. At the time, it was the best thing to be done, for no lasting treaty could have been made with any rebel chief whose sole ideas were massacre and plunder. To drive an ancient nation like China along the road of progress, has been proved to be more difficult than driving a pig to market. The Chinese have opposite ideas and won't be driven ; they are a large nation and have every right to stand up for what they con- sider their rights. What they consider their rights cannot always be understood, aud foreigners are apt to take a contrary view. The progress made by China in the direc- tion of acquiring Western notions has not been so rapid as that of Japan, but no one will refuse to admit that China is now being pushed on gradually and surely by the course of events and perhaps far more surely and conservatively than the land of the Rising Sun. England, we are sure, has no design on China beyond a friendly wish that she will open out her country, improve her knowledge of Western ways, laws, and customs, adapting them to such an extent as to permit of free residence and right to trade in all parts of the empire, including, of course, due protection to her nationals. All these rights cannot be attained easily any more than Rome could be built in a day, but if China remains true to herself and at the same time takes the advice of such men as Sir Robert Hart, we shall soon see more rapid changes in her mode of Government and a better under- standing of foreigners ; and if railways and telegraphic communication are extended over this vast empire, the Chinese will soon learn all they can from us, and will, it is hoped, remain firm friends of England and assist her in keeping the balance of power intact in the East, which will be rather a difficult matter in days to come, [ 143 ] if the Russian Bear and the French Eagle are to increase their power in Asia unchecked. 25th April. After several days' delay, owing to the north-eas- terly wind preventing cargo boats communicating with shipping outside the bar, the Nunoa and Hailooiig hnally got away. A cargo boat with tea on board got to lee- ward of the Hailoong, and was carried some distance down the coast. Two steam launches went to the rescue, but could not assist in towing the boat against the breeze. One of the steam launches, the Alice, was carried down to Paksa Point, and whilst at anchor there was boarded and looted; everything was taken away but the boiler, it is said. At the back of Paksa Point there is an enor- mous village called Pay-sway-toon ; the inhabitants are principally Hakkas, well known wreckers. They are the men who set fire to and looted the Make, which was wrecked between Paksa and Table Plill some 17 years ago. When the Hailoong stranded here, some two years ago, they came down in hundreds and in a short time the cargo, chiefly tea wood, was carried inland. 26th April. The Pay-sway-toon people say they took the Alice for a French launch. It was fortunate there was no European on board, or they would have cut his head off. Two out of the four chaaszes returned to Twatutia to-day. TvvATUTiA, 28th April. The difference in climate between this and Hubei must be more than five degrees. To-day the therm, is b'i deg. A good deal of tea coming down. The towns- people seem glad to see us back. Plouses and every- thing in them found to be just in the same order as they were when we left them on 1st October last. Liu Ming- chuan and his army remain at Loktaw. Chinese have no confidence in the word of the French. The troops under General Soon at Hubei are on the alert as much as they were when the French ships were in sight. t 144 J THE BLOCKADE RAISED. SUBSEQUENT EVENTS. TwatUtia, 29th April. The heat up here is something intense ; therm. 88. Summer has come upon us Suddenly and with a vengeance ! The paddy fields in front of the town and between this and Banca seem in a flourishing condition. Since the raising of the blockade rice and other neces- saries have declined in price, and poor coolies will now get a good bowl or two daily at a moderate cost. Poreign goods are being poured into the place, and the town of Twatutia, which appeared a few days ago a sort of " sleepy hollow '' has suddenly shewn signs of animation. The presence of foreign tea buyers has put life into the place ; the mere fact of a few of them bringing back their office paraphernalia and commencing operations has allayed somewhat the suspicious feeling possessed by many that the war is not at an end. It may not be all over ; the French are still at Kelung and hold certain positions in the direction of Leang-kah and Wan Wan ; they cannot therefore believe implicitly that all diffi- culties are " settled," and the Chinese have a sort of suspicion still that the French are not sincere in their overtures. In the early morning we here bugle calls, reminding us of the sounds heard before the bombardment of Ke- lung ; they come from Tai-peh-fu, where the military mandarins reside. The calls are French, and must have been picked up by the buglers at the Foochow Arsenal when it was being "run'' byM. Giqueland other French engineers. There are not many soldiers at Tai-peh-fu ; the main army is still at Loktaw, keeping a good look out. They know the present weakness of the French at [ 145 ] Kelung, but will take no advantage. The terms of the armistice will not be broken by any act of the Chinese soldiery of Formosa. The Chinese emigrants to Aus- tralia, and especially to San Francisco, have made a bad name there, and the heathen Chinee, as they are Called, are regarded more or less with suspicion, but throughout the French troubles here the soldiers have behaved on on the whole very creditably. During the bombard- ments of Kelung, and afterwards of Tamsui, the "people" were inclined to take the law into their own hands, and the foreign buildings of Twatutia would have shared the same fate as the chapels belonging to the Canadian Mission had not the civil and military mandarins ex- ercised their authority ; and had they not been backed up by the soldiers, chaos would have reigned. There have been cases in the heat of battle where the soldiers have behaved in what we consider a very savage way ; that is, they have severed the heads of their enemies and have exposed them publicly in the market places of Hubei and Banca. But however wrong this may appear, and is, it can scarcely be considered worse than the acts of " dynamitards," who are supposed to be mem- bers of a higher state of civilization. In the heat of battle, men down on their backs, wounded and unable to return a bayonet thrust, are often put out of their misery by the " fittest," and w^e hear but little about it. War is something horrible, no doubt, but the acts of individuals in action ought not to be judged in the same way that acts committed in cool blood may be, We do not uphold the barbarous mode of attacking a wounded man and of severing his head, of exposing it and gloating over it, perhaps dancing round it to the accompaniment of a war whoop ; but we opine that the civilized notions of blowing up ironclads or troopships full of human beings, of placing torpedoes, and sinking mines for the purpose of wholesale destruction of human life, is far worse. AVhere are you to draw the line in [ 146 j time -of war? There is no sentiment ' prevailing then; everyone endeavours to take advantage of circumstances, the idea being to exterminate as many of the enemy as possible. In the old war between China and England sailors were inveigled away from their ships and were never heard of again ; the reports were that they were tortured to death, &c. But if we glance throiigh the pages of our own history, recording events that tran- spired in India during the mutiny, we find reason to blush for the acts of our military officials. The acts com- mitted by certain rebels might have been " devilish " and inhuman, but the retributive action -of the con- querors would not always beai* the light of day and of calmer judgment. To find fault with the Chinese mode of treating wounded men or prisoners is often a case of the " mote and the beam," and of *' throwing stones at glass windows." But I may be utterly wrong. 30th April. Strong North-easter; therm, dropped from 88 deg. to 71 deg., a very pleasant but treacherous change in the weather. News arrived from Lok-taw this afternoon, which rather disconcerted people for a time, that two French soldiers had been foraging after fowls, and whilst engaged in this freebooting occupation they got into the society of certain women, who were picking tea on the hills. It is said that these jolly foragers assisted the women to pick tea and tried their hands at driving a plough drawn by a cow or buffalo ; it is even whispered that they were extra demonstrative in their attention to the female tea pickers ; but this is all rumour. Whatever the circum- stances were, one of the Frenchmen was killed and the other ran for his life. Soon afterwards a body of French- men crossed the uncertain line of demarcation, seized some ten men and women, and carried them away as hostages. This unfortunate occurrence took place at Teng Lai, not far from AVau Wan. [ 1^7 ] 1st May. Blowing from N. E. The Ivgrahan arrived outside, and her letters were sent up the river in the afternoon. The high civil official Yang, or Yung, from Peking on his way up the island, has been resting at Teuck" cham for some days. He is expected here shortly. 2nd May. There will be no'trouble about the killing of the Prenchman. The fight was between the coimtry people and the two French soldiers. The hostages will no doubt be retained until some satisfaction is obtained from the Chinese. The matter will be arranged without any trouble. Tamsui, 3rd, 4th, and 5th May. No events to record. Very hot ; therm, ranging from 81 to 88 deg, in the shade. The high civil Man- darin with a name like Yang or Yung has arrived from the walled city of Teuck-cham, where he has been staying for some time on his way overland from the south of the island. He is said to be a very high mandarin, and it would appear so from the number of his body guard and the noise of trumpets and gongs which accompany him. 6th and 7th May. Yang went to Hub^i to visit General Soon and the English Consul. The obstacles on the bar have not yet been removed. On the 2nd instant the following circular was sent round by H.B.M.'s Consul : — Notice. H.B.M.'s Consulate. TAMsm, 2nd May, 1885. The undersigned has to-day received a latter from General Soon stating- that the Chinese authorities have received orders by telegram from the Tsung-li Yamen not to open the ports that have been blocked up until the French vessels cruising for search purposes have left Cbina, an agrement to this effect haviug apparently been made with France. (Sd.) A. Fkater, Officiating Consul. [ 14S ] Lead is scarce, not enough for tea requirements. Tea is arriving freely. There is sufficient unfired leaf on the market to use up all the lead in stock. It will become very serious to tea packers and foreigners en- gaged in the trade if the import of lead is stopped much longer. 8 til and 9th May. Tang returned from Hubei. No news whatever from Kdlung or Wan Wan. The coal trade cannot be resumed until the French leave Kelung and the neigh- bouring hills. Coal men are all ready to begin work again, but are afraid to go back, and until peace is signed there will be nothing done there. We doubt if the Kelung colliery works will be continued at Coal Har- bour. On the 18th of August, 1884, Consul Frater issued the following circular, just after the bombard- ment of Kelung : — H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamstji, 18th August, 1884. The Imperial CoramiRsioner Liu Ming'-chuan has consented to allow the re-openincr of the native mines at Kelung that were formerly closed by the mandarins as being in the way of the colliery. The Imperial Commissioner states, however, that in the present condition of affairs at Kelung work is not likely to be at oace resumed at the mines. (Sd.) A. Featee, H.B.M.'s Consul Officiating at Tamsui. It will be interesting to see whether certain native mines which have been closed for years will be allowed to be worked. TwATUTiA, 10th May. The course of events is running very smoothly here just now, the only disturbing element being the weather, which for the time of the year is not only very change- able but at times rather boisterous, preventing for days sometimes the shipping of produce in foreign steamers, which are compelled by the Chinese authorities to load outside the bar. To-day there is a very strong breeze from the south-west, which would lead one to imagine that the south-west monsoon had travelled as far north [ 149 ] as Tamsui, which we rather doubt. Therm. 84 d(^g.,to highest point 88 deg. 11th May. A sudden change- in the- weather and a drop of IS deg. in less tlian, 24 hours. 12th May, North-easter blowing strong with heavy rain. This is certainly the most curious May weather we have seen for years. Since the armistice was proclaimed the wea- ther has been rough outside almost every day; the French could have done nothing at Tamsui. If they could not succeed in October last they certainly would not suc- ceed in April or May,_ without fine-weather, and double or even treble theforce the force they landed. them: li3th May. Tea is pouring in from the- country, evidently- shewing that there is no lack of the " merry leaf." The cropi however, is considered by experts decidedly inferior to last year's spring yield, not from any fault of the plants iniany way, but from, the hurried and careless way in which tea picking has been conducted, and for want of skilled labour, &c. The result at the commencement of operations has damaged, the reputation of first crops so far, but now that the first excitement is over and the stock is so heavy as to cause even reckless planters and packers to ponder over " the position " we shall, perhaps see more qualitj^ and less quantity during the remainder of the month. 14th May. As a rule we do not get regular tropical rains and; thimderstorms so early in the- year, but to-day the can- nonading close overhead was as deafening almost as the- sound of the Galissonniere's big guns atthe-bombardment. A Japanese man-of-war arrived outside Tamsui harbour, and the Commander called on General Soon, it is said. After all the necessary civil " talkee talkee " which in- variably has to be gone through on official visits, the [ 150 ] most important point finally was placed on the tapis. Rumour says that the Japanese officer expressed a wish to see the earth battery and other military engineering objects of interest of the same kind, but General Soon, who is a man of parts, not only brave, loyal, and patriotic to a sublime degree, insinuated that he had no green in the white of his eye ! All sorts of rumours were after- wards started by Chinese sensationalists that negotia- tions at Peking had come to a stand,. &c., &c., buit none of them are worth recording. The local Government having indirectly squeezed every native (known to be rich or worth anything) dur- ing the blockade, have to-day, it is said, raised the amount of the direct tax called the lekin tax on Gpiuna. We hear that in future the Chinese consumer of this pernicious, but at the same time alluring, and in certain cases beneficial narcotic — stimulant to the weak and under-fed hard working bieadvvinner, solace to the wretched and disheartened and luckless, but death to the rich and well-to-do, effeminate, lazy, useless, opium ridden specimens one occasionally sees with one's own eyes and hears so much of — will have to pay an increas- ed tax of Tls. 20 on Persian opium and Tls. 24 on Benares. That is, as far as we understand, Tls. 116 on Persian and Tls. 120 on Benares will be in future col- lected, but it is very doubtful whether the Imperial exchequer will be any the richer. The lekin tax must amount over all China to some fabulous sum, but it is not natural at all in a country like China to expect that the Imperial Treasurer at Peking will handle much more than 30 per cent, of the total amount collected in the provinces. Why, if every tael was accounted for pro- perly it would be irregular and uncelestial ! 15th May. In the short space of about three weeks (since foreigners returned to Twatutia) the arrivals of tea have amounted to some 60,000 half-chests, a portion of which [ 151 J is old last year's leaf, which had to be stored until the blockade was raised. With all this tea pouring in daily what is to be done without lead ? We can fire tea, and can make chests to contain same, but imless the pack- ages are lead-lined,, the tea cannot be shipped to a foreign market. Here again the French war of repri- sals and even a state of armistice brings loss to British and American, merchants as well as to Chinese. Lead is a contraband of war undoubtedly, but under special gua- rantee the import ought to be allowed. Here foreign merchants suffer,. whether there is a blockade or an armis- tice, and yet the Erench navy has been allowed to victual and coal and repair damages to their vessels in Hongkong during war time and to look upon Hongkong as a military and naval, store department to their heart's content. Tamstjx, 16th xMay. It was reported a few days ago that the French authorities at Kelung had given out that they would return goods found in captured junks, such as nankeen cottons, &c., &c., to the owners or consignees. We should, think it would, be a very difficult matter to find the consignees or owner.s of the goods at Kelung, some of the: junks,, when taken, being on their way to southern ports. We: do not suppose that any of the junks taken by the French were destined for Kelung. Under any circumstances it will be difficult for either shippers or consignees to prove ownership. Many of the poor junk- men were made to work hard, were- badly fed, and at night, being huddled together in godowns and houses,, packed very closely, numbers of them succumbed. Some escaped and found their way overland to Taiwan-foo, French soldiers suffered as much, and it is supposed that more died from the climate and disease than, from Chi- nese bullets. 17th and ISth May. Queer weather; quite cool again; therm. 71 to 75 ; wind, strange to say,, is north-east still; generally [ 152 J ealm in the niorBings, and a breeze about 10. a.m. Tva^o steamers outside : tlie W^elle from the north and the Ingraban from the south. No lead on board these ships. Some 70^000. half-chests of tea down and only lead for about 40,000 half-chests. Chinese packers are buying lip leaden ;o«s cmidlesUcks . (fee, to make leaden linings to tea chests, and fishermen are said to be parting with the leaden weights attached to their nets for same pur- pose. Lead last season was sold at about $6 per picul; at the beginning of the present season sales were made at $9 to $10 per picul. In the- beginning of the present month $16 per picul might have been obtained. To- day packers are willing to pay, people say, $20 per picul. Charcoal, which is an important article in the manufacture of tea, is also a scarce commodity just at present. Some years ago you could buy it at the rate of $1 for 3 piculs ; now you can only get 80 catties for a dollar. A very large quantity of charcoal is used in all the large towns of Form,osa for cooking purposes, but an enormous quantity is also r'equiredi at Twatutia and elsewhere for firing teas. Each tea packing hong has a large firing- room attached. Small hongs have 50 to 100 fires and large- hongs have about 200 to 300 fires and even more. The fire places are simply circular holes, about two feet in diameter, swrounded by brick facings.. They are arranged in rows, and are not much more than eighteen inches above the fioor of the room. The fire holes are apart about half a foot, and on the top of these circular holes, or receptacles for live char- coal are placed the baskets containing tea. The fires are prepared in a simple way ; a large pile of charcoal is lighted and allowed to, burn till all the combustible matter contained therein, has disappeared, and the red hot particles are placed by the firing men in the circular fireplaces. I'or several hours the fires are allowed to fiare up and cast forth a flame and glow that few men can stand, for an,y length of tim.e. If you enter a large L 1^3 ] firing room at the time the fires are being lighted it is hke going into an oven, and the return to the open air reminds you forcibly of the heated atmos- phere of Montreal hotels, where ins-ide the tem- perature is perhaps over 70 deg. and on going out of the front door you suddenly find yourself in an atmosphere' several degrees below zero. This is putting it very mildly, for in a room with 300 fires the heat is far more intense. It takes time for the fires to settle down, and the red hot charcoal has to be broken up with iron implements ;, the red heat has to penetrate to the very core of the charred branches or portions of trunks of trees, and when no smoke what- ever issues from the fire holes, the firing men place on top of the embers a thick covering of ashes of paddy husk> which deadens and tempers the heat to such an extent that in the course of 1 2 or 1 5 hours from the time the blazing lumps of charcoal were placed in the fire holes it is safe to- place the baskets contaming tea-leaves over them. The baskets are cylindrical in shape, about 2 feet in diameter and about 3 feet high;^ they are divided in two by a sieve partition, and on top of this sieve the tea is placed. I'he teas brought down from the hills and tea districts have undergone thc' sun-drying and absorb- ing process,, have been fried in an iron pan, have been twisted by hand after passing through the rapid frying process, and on occasions are basket-fired up country. But the up-country process of preparation is insufficient to permit of the leaf being shipped away to a foreign country ; it has, therefore, after you have purchased it, to be " cured " properly and finally at Twatutia. Eveiy particle of moistiu'o has to be extracted in the final pro- cess, previous to packing the leaf in lead-Hned chests. Wherever Chinese colonists are sent to — and it is always inland towards the savage frontier or border land — their first idea is to make a clearing, built shanties, plant a few sweet potato fields, &c. Then, after squatting L 154 ] and settling down, they turn their attention to the hills in the neighbourhood, which are covered from bottom to top with trees of all kinds and thick jungle. Without entering deeply into, border life, we may mention that these pioneers, are for the most part Hakkas, in fact our old friends the hillmen. They become squatters, cam- phor producers, or charcoal burners according to circum- stances. They enter into the business, whatever it may be, wirh zest, whether wood clearing or hunting, and in a generation or two become semi-savage in their ways and habits. They have to deal with savages, and in course' of time they outsavage them, having a poorer idea of honour than the aborigines, 'i'hey commit treacher- ous acts on occasions, and feuds arise, lasting often for years. These borderers or hilhne-n come in contact with the savages daily, and they act as a sort of buffer between the quiet farmers and villagers in the- valleys and plains and the noble owners of the hilly country. They are therefore looked upon as protectors and are often paid by the people as well as the Government to check the savages when making raids into Chinese territory, per- haps only lately acquired. During the Franco-Chinese war of reprisals hun- dreds of these hillmen were engaged by the military authorities to fight the French at Tamsui and Kelung, and their withdrawal has strengthened the hands of the savages, so much so that places from which the latter had been driven have been retaken, and districts where camphor and charcoal Avere previously obtainable can- not with safety now be visited. Hence the temporary scarcity of both camphor and charcoal. On the East coast, down at Soao Bay and at Talimo, where there are not many hillmen, and where things are jogging along as if no French soldier had over set foot on Formosa soil, charcoal is obtainable. No end of boats have consequently gone down there and things may right themselves. It is a long way, however [ 155 ] to go for such, fuel, and no wonder that under all the circumstances charcoal, formerly so cheap, is now so dear. Many of the hillmen, auxilliaries in blockade times, have been disbanded, and when peace has been signed they will all have to return to their happy hunting grounds, and it will be a sorry time, we fear, for the poor savages, who have had it a good deal^their own way of late. 19th and 20th May. Ingrahan and Welle still outside. Hailoong arrived on 19th. Weather very bad for shipping; several boats damaged, and one boatload of tea came to utter grief. 21st May. Fokien arrived, making four steamers off the port. In the early morning it is calm as a rule, but before boats can get over the bar a wind generally springs up, and shipping tea is almost impossible. Boats are scarce and many of them don't care to go alongside if there is the slightest sea on. 22nd and 23rd May. Wind still north-easterly. Heavy rain fell during the night and morning of the 23rd. The detention to steamers caused by the closing of the entrance to the port is very provoking to all in the tea trade, so much extra expense as well as risk attends the shipping of tea and discharging of goods outside the bar. It is whispered that lead was seen floating over the bar, but if the import is allowed in one instance it will only be fair to allow everyone to import it. Ther- mometer 85 almost daily. 24th May. Queen's birthday! Even in this remote corner of the world the birthday of Good Queen Victoria is never for- gotten. The flagstaff was dressed and Her Majesty's health wa,s drunk by all, and if the Cockchafer had been here a salute would have been fired no doubt, and the [ 156 ] day would have been a regular holiday. The departure of the' Cockchafer caused many of us to feel dull and wretched for days afterwards. After nine months' stay here it is not to be supposed that the officers and crew would feel great sorrow at looking perhaps for the last time at the historic' earthworks and defences made during their stay here ;■ nor do you think they will regret very much the' non-appearance every morning of the North Hill (the ancient Vesuvius of Formosa), nor the group of conicalrshaped hills to. the south of the river, ^vhich for so many months they gazed upon with a weary longing- look, wishing that they had never set eyes thereon. The snipe and plover on the Downs Avere never so numerous as to cause' the heart of " Hawkins " or the " Pusser " to- wish themselves back again, we are sure. The brilliantly lighted (?) billiard room and its shingly floor, though the great rendezvous on dismal rainy days,, would have but few attractions if trans- planted to. Hongkong. The hours spent in that build- ing and on the adjoining tennis lawn will, however, never perhaps fade from the memory of some of our Cockchafer friends-. They will not readily, we imagine, banish from their recollections, either, the days of the bombardments, when the little Cockchafer appeared to have a charmed life, shot and shell falling all round seeming to advise her to change her berth, saying "You are in the line of fire! Move further up the river! You are in a dangerous position !" We shall watch with much interest the movements of the tight little boat. Only give her a chance and we shall hear that she will distinguish herself. The blue jackets and marines, at least those who formed the "Shore Guards" will not forget their stay here. Some of the latter may have had more exciting times at Tel-cl-tebir, and some of the former at Alexandria, but these experiences will not wholly erase from their memories the recollections of Tamsui bombardment days, &c., &c., &c. L 157 J 26th and 27th May. The warmest days this year. Thermometer ranged from 88 to 90^. 29th May. Therm. 81. No more lead this time, but we hear junks have arrived at certain ports on the "VYest Coast with small lots. It is rumoured that Admiral Courbet is to meet General Liu Ming-chuan at Lok-taw some day soon, and that on the occasion the Admiral will hand over Kelung to Liu Ming-chuan. TwATUTiA, 30th May. An American doctor called at this place to-day. He went on immediately in a rapid boat up the Kelung rapids to Lok-taw, "where he had to report himself to General Liu Ming-chuan. We believe the appointment was given to Dr. Luscher by the Governor- General of Canton.. It is a move in the right direction, though made rather late in the day. Lead is so much needed that Chinese are said to have shipped some across in one of the Coast steamers as treasure, in treasure boxes. The Customs pounced on them, we hear, and the consignees will, we suppose, be fined at least for giving a false declaration. If Chinese pay freight as treasure and insure, de- claring the boxes to contain treasure, when they only contain lead, we should think insurance agents would have something to say in such cases. 31st May. It is reported that two Customs officers will shortly go over to Kelung, and that after Kelung is delivered up by the French the Foreign Customs will immediately be re-opened there. Therm. 91. Heat stifling, with thunder clouds gathering all round the plain. 1st, 2nd, and 3rd June. Therm, every day in the shade 90 to 91. A few days ago a Chinese coolie in the employ of a foreign firm was "massacred " by a soldier. The coolie died within [ 158 ] 48 hours, and in an hour or two after his death the sol- dier's head was off. That is the way General Soon keeps order here ! What is to become of all the soldiers after the French leave Kelung? We hope they will be sent out of the island, leaving only a few thousands at Tai- peh-fu, Kelung, and Hubei. Many of the local militia have been paid off already, and the service of the Hillmen will, perhaps, be dispensed with ; but will the Northern soldiers be removed and taken back to their Northern homes ? We hope they will not be disbanded here, as many Northern soldiers were after the troubles of 1874, and be allowed to prowl about till they are compelled to beg and become a nuisance. 4th June. After all the heat down comes another North- easter and a consequent drop from 91 deg, to 78 deg. Ingraban in, but can't do much, as there is a bar on. 5th June. It was said a few days ago that the French were to evacuate Kelung to-day, but no official intimation has been given to foreign officials. There is some talk of the Hillmen being kept on at Hiibei and Kelung to assist in fortifying both places after the French have left. There is a rumour here that the French have rented the Pescadores from the Chinese ; they might as well give the French Formosa at once. TwATUTiA, 7th June. Very cool day. Therm, 74 at Hubei ; 78 at this place. 8th and 9th June. The FoHen arrived with a large quantity of lead. The Customs on this occasion refused to allow it to be landed, although on a previous occasion they permitted some 130 pigs to be landed out of a steamer belonging to the same company. A junk arrived at Tamsui Avith lead and her cargo is being landed. One or two junks from the mainland have arrived at ports on the West [ 159 ] Coast, and have discharged several hundred pigs of lead. Foreign interests suffer ; Chinese interests are protected! It is said that instructions had been sent from Peking not to allow lead to be landed out of foreign steamers. Why do these instructions apply only to foreign ships and not to junks also ? 10th June. Arrival of Hailootiff reported. Lead on board, but can't be landed. Chinese have been importing lead in treasure boxes, and finding that did not succeed they shipped some in boxes said to contain tin plates. The boxes were examined in the usual way, and were found to contain about two tin plates only, the remainder of their contents being lead. It strikes us as being re- markably strange that the Customs authorities are so keen on stopping the import of lead, an article of trade so much required by tea packers, who contribute to the Tamsui Customs revenue more than any one else. We do not expect Customs officers to neglect their duty in any way to oblige merchants, and we know that in this instance they are simply executing orders, which must be carried out. But if lead is a contraband of war surely dollars are also, and yet dollars, and it is re- ported, soldiers, are not objected to, but are " passed " freely. 11th, 12th, and 13th June. Therm, ranged from 81 to 85 deg. ; very heavy rain during the afternoon of the 13th. If would appear that the story about Admiral Courbet's intention of meeting General Liu Ming-chuan at Lok-taw was simply an emanation from a very " un- reliable source." General Soon is going in for a Tamsui regatta du- ing the present festive season, and a considerable sum of money has been collected from the soldiers and officers stationed at Hubei. Chinese regattas in former years were held up the river at Bauca, or near Tvvatutia, but in [ IGO ] coiisequence of the repulse of the French of the 8th Oc- tober last General Soon perhaps thmks it more expedient to hold it at the anchorage. The races in long snake boats have been going on for some days, and will finish, we suppose, on the grand holiday on the 7th instant. General Soon is a most important individual, no doubt, and may know how to keep his troops in order, but notwithstanding all this he is unmistakeably under the thumb of General Liu Ming-chuan and can do no- thing in the way of opening the poi't and allowing ships to enter the river without taking orders direct from Liu. Before the raising of the blockade General Soon gave out (it was rumoured) that the French ships would be driven away by the Chinese fleet and that he would open the port in April. The French ships having left under the terms of an " armistice," the General now changes front and refuses to remove obstacles on the bar, such as sunken junks, piles of stones, and old torpedoes which have been under water far longer than is good for them and which had better be exploded and renewed rather than left in a state of doubt as to their destructive utility. The torpedo business has been conducted in a most secret form, and no one, except perhaps the solitary tor- pedoist who laid them down originally, could ar- range to work them scientifically and successfully. These torpedoes are, it is said, attached to an electric battery on shore. It would in these peaceful times be expedient, one would think, to let them off aud lay fresh ones down, no enemy being in sight. It would be good practice any how, and would be an experiment which would be instructive perhaps to those in charge of such warlike gear. Would they go off? is a moot question. Are they in the positions still that they were placed in months and months ago ? It is very doubtful. But of course such matters are really of no consequence now. The only thing is that if they have not all floated out to sea and left their mooring grounds they may be in the [ 161 ] fair way of ships, and consequently if not taken up and removed accidents may happen. If these torpedoes have not been changed since they were originally laid down we feel convinced that they would not explode after being under water for so many months. 14th June. Frightfully hot again ; 94 deg. in the shade. Ge- neral Soon's subscription regatta going on. Long snake boats with lots of men, using paddles, contend against each other, all stripped to the waist. A terrific pace is attained for about 100 yards or so — and the struggle is kept up for another 100 yards or more, when all is over. The boats are long and snaky in shape and are propelled by 20 men and more. They spurt from the start to finish, mis-use a lot of breath, and make no end of a row. 15th June. Fokien in, bringing news of peace duly signed. She has a heavy cargo of lead, and permission is now given to land same ; vide following notification : — (Copy) H.B.ML's Consulate, Tamsui, 15th June, 1885. The undersiprned has been officially informed by the Commissioner of Customs that the Treaty of Peace between France and China having' been signed at Tientsin, all restrictions imposed at this port on the landing" of munitions of war, lead and rice included, have been removed from to-day's date. (Sd.) A. Featek, Consul. Tamsuf, 18th June. Very hot, 90 degrees. Amatista arrived; Fokien still in port. 19th June. Cooler, 85 degrees. Wind from south-west. A Customs assistant visited a few days ago Lok-taw, the head quarters of Liu Ming-chuan, and got within view of the French outworks. A big troopship was seen to pass the port of Tamsui on the 17th instant on her way south. French are clearing out of Kclung rapidly. { 1«2 J 20th aiifl 31st June. Very hot weather, thermometer 91 to 92. The following circular has just been sent round ; — Notice. H.B.M.'s Consulate, Tamsui, 21st June, 1885. The underslg'iied has just received a letter from Admiral Lespes, Commauder-in Chief of the French Naval Forces in the Extreme East, stating- that he will evacuate Kelung to-day, and that Britisli suhjects having houses in Kelung should, before makiag- claims against the French, examine the state of their houses. The bearer of this circular, Constable Peterson, is being sent by the undersigned to Kelung, and British subjects can send their em- ployes with him to resume ^possession of their houses. Inventories should be made. ^A. Featkb, Consul. 22nd June. Six French vessels were passing Tamsui yesterday, so that the evacuation has taken place. Amongst them were Za Oalissonniere, Duguay-Trouin, and Atalante. The little Lutin and a cruiser remain behind a day to pick up the last batch of men. The French have left, it is reported, very little behind them of value. It is said that the French soldiers are very pleased at the idea of leaving Formosa. The death of Admiral Courbet was reported from Amoy. A foreigner wbo has visited Kelung lately says that the City of Kelung is in ruins and level with the ground. Chinese officials give out that the Government colliery will be worked again. It will take a long time before Kelung will recover itself. The residents were not wealthy, and half of the inhabi- tants were in anything but a flourishing condition pre- vious to the bombardment. How, after being driven away from their homes for more than nine months and with their properties destroyed and looted, their houses to build up again, can the place recover and thrive without some assistance from Government? There have been one or two more desertions of French soldiers lately. The Chinese treat them well. It is said the men were not well looked after and were scantily fed. [ 163 1 23rd and 24th June. Still extremely hot, indoors 91 to 92 daily; Under verandahs 96 to 98. A. number of Chinese prisoners arrived at Twatutia, yesterday, 23rd. They looked, I am told, most miserable, thin, and worn. Late news from Kelung is Very unsatisfactory. It appears that the soldiery this time have been misbehaving, and we regret extremely to hear it, as throughout the w^ar of reprisals General Soon's men have been kept well in order, and when Twatutia foreign hongs were threatened in October Liu Ming-chuan's soldiers were called out and quelled the rising of the people most effectually and promptly. Soon after the French left Kelung, it seems that the soldiers commenced to pull down foreign buildings, breaking the glass windows of Messsrs. Douglas Lapraik & Co.'s house, and removing everything from the premises, even fire grates, &c. On the adjoining piece of ground, belonging to Messrs. Jardine, Matheson & Co., the French had built numerous houses for soldiers, and these were quickly demolished. After destroying and looting these properties the soldiers were interfered with by a force sent down from General Liu Ming-chuan, but up to the present moment accounts vary about the doings of the soldiers and the steps taken by the officers. Where is the British gunboat? Can't the Admiral spare one to look in at Tamsui and Kelung occasionally ? It only takes twenty-four hours for the slowest gun- vessel to get across from Amoy in the south-west mon- soon, and about fifteen hours from Foochow. We shall receive further and more reliable details of the doings of the soldiery at Kelung, which will be reported in our next. The P'rench, it would appear, offered, after the bombardment of Kelung, to pay claims made for damage to properties and even rent on houses evacuated after the bombardment, but with all this they have left us a legacy which no amount of rent can cover. I 164 1 TwATCTiA, 25th June. The heat here is felt far more than during the " Comet " days ^ there is no respite.; foreigners and nati\'cs complain ahbe. Nothing under 90 deg. in the shade, varying from 91 deg. up to 98 deg. according to the part of the dwelling you. are in. Notwithstanding this uniform high state of the thermometer in the shade, Chinese religious festivals seem to be carried on with vigour and energy, even in the hottest part of the day. Twatutia i?, par excellence the town of religious fervour in North Formosa. It would appear that some daily ceremony was absolutely necessary in order to keep up the outward appearance of things. ^Vhen you imagine you are thoroughly free from the sound of gongs and cymbals, all of a sudden a number of men with deter- mination depicted on their countenances appear bearing in a sort of chair on their shoulders a "joss," a real wooden joss, about 1 foot to 2 feet high according to circumstance. The josses I have seen are nearly always made of wood, and are either painted black or have be- come dirty in appearance for want of soap. These wooden gods or devils are carried out in a chair for a walk, and the men carrying them are seen to swing the chair about, and to shake up the joss in a most uncom- fortable way, and yet not only the bearers, but the native on-lookers, deceive themselves to such an extent that they give out most unhesitatingly that the " devil " or joss inside is really moving the chair. It must be noted that the chairs have only two long bamboos reaching from one end to the other, the other two supports being cut off short, so as to permit of the swaying motion of the compartment containing the wooden image. How practical people like the Chinese cannot see through such deception is marvellous. If you point out these little flaws to an intelligent pidgin English speaking native he will only laugh and say, " all o' man sabee, but belong olo cussom. Have do so fashion too muchee long time. Must [ 165 ] have got all o' plopper!" A description might be given of splendid processions, with dragons, ponies with chil- dren on them, clowns, and men carrying banners of all colours, telescopic demons, and court fools capering about, the devil himself following up in the motley train, &c., &c. Then, too, there are military processions which seem almost of daily occurrence. The first indication is perhaps the' blowing of huge trumpets, long irregular blasts, which invariably carry your imagination back to the Biblical narrative of the blowing of trumpets outside the walls of Jericho. To-day and for several days past the whole town, has been keeping high feast, and just after sunset pyrotechnic displays take place, lasting late into- the- night. Rockets are the favourite fireworks. The- shopkeepers all contributing so much towards the cost. Thousands, of people go on to the green every night, and a huge roar of voices is heard ; and no end of rockets, Catharine-wheels, and. big. bomblike crackers are exploded. This noisy crowd enjoy themselves immensely, and when the last rocket has been des- patched quietly go- home, and in a quarter of an hour or SO' not a sound is heard. No policemen are re- quired to keep order. In this town of twenty to thirty thousand men there is only one policeman, so far as we- know. We once required his presence and help. It took about twO' haurs to find him, and when he appeared he turned out to be a superannuated old chap who- thought of nothing else but the fee that he would receive- from you for answering to your call. The town is di- vided into wards ; head men are appointed and are made answerable for the good conduct of each ward. Petty rows are settled with bamboos generally, and often a general scrimmage takes place, sometimes with loss of life. If the matter is serious a few. heads are chopped off, which has the desired and lasting effect of keeping order. We must not be astonished at all at the want of " Bobbies " here. We have only to go back to the [ 100 J time of Sir Robert Peel to remind ourselves that the " organised arm of the law " as it exists now in England is^a very recent product of Western civilization. 26th June. Another blazing hot day. Grand ceremony on the green between the town and river. A large heap of coals is placed in the centre of the green and is lighted underneath. For several hours the coals burn and smoulder, and smoke is carried by the wind accordingly. Whilst these preparations are going on, a crowd gra- dually assembles and continues to increase during the day. Towards 3 or 4 p.m. you might imagine yourself somewhere near the Black Rock in Wong-nei-cheong Valley on the second day of the races, looking at a con- fused mass of Celestials all huddled closely' together, and all jabbering like monkeys The crowd increases. Mnally, processions are descried hurrying from the town towards the scene. Chairs carrying josses, followed by men in various dresses waving flags of various hues, are drawn up on the green in a circle round the fire, the crowd being kept back by men apparently appointed for the purpose. Suddenly, when the critical moment arrives, a move is made by the chair containing the josses and the bearers. They rush round and round the fire in a circle vociferating and yelling, hurrying along at a dervish sort of pace, each joss vyin, with the other, it would appear. Finally, the time arrives when the bearers of joss and the followers must rush over the heated coals barefooted. Many do this and get their feet burnt. In that case ill luck will attend them. If, however, they can manage to run across the hot pile of coals without being burnt, the gods or devils will favour them. We have asked several heathens about this ceremony. Half don't know much about it, others say that it is the birthday of the " Twatutia Joss " and other josses have to assist in the celebration . The cere- mony takes place every year at Twatutia. We have never o [ 107 J seen it performed else wh-ere in China. It is like nothing else of its kind that we have witnessed. Only an intel- ligent Chinaman would be able to explain its iiiaaaiag; the common people^ who take the most violent in- terest in the exhibition, vary considerably in their state- msnts if qaestioned. on. the subject. Twatutia is also a great place for opea air singsongs, and on certain occa- sions the processions previously referred to reach for over a mile. Some of them, remind one of the Lord Mayor's show in London, and the running across a heap of burning coaL would almost make one believe that the custom came from India, or from Zululand, where a similar religious ordeal has to. be gone through. 27th June. Hot as ever, 89' to 91, day and night. Fokien got away. 28th, 29th and 3Cth June. A little cooler ; Therm. 87- to 91 degrees in the shade. Customs issued to-day a notification as follows : — Notice is liereby given that the branch office of the < nstom House in Kelung is again open for the transaction of public business. Sd. Ed W. Faeago, Commissioner of tustoms. 1st July. Such strange- stories arrived from, Kelung soon after the date of the evacuation of that place- by the French that we were not at first prepared to believe them,, without making the^ due allowance customary in the East, especially when the infoi'mation was from Chinese sources. Europeans, however, who, were present just previous to the evacuation, and others who arrived afterwards, all confirm the report that the Chinese soldiery, on arriving at the foreign quarter of the bay, entered the foreign built houses and for a time a lot of smashing and looting took place. The Customs offices and dwelling were spared, owing perhaps to the presence at the time of two officers, but the other houses suffered from the acts of soldiers belonging to. various regiments. The officers. : 108 J we are told, had for the time being no control whatever over their troops, and v?hen one of them was appealed to he replied that he was helpless and could do nothing ; in fact the soldiers had attacked a house near Greneral Tsao's old quarters, belonging to Chinese Government, and had moreover looted the Kelung T'ing's house. General LiuMing-chuan guarantees payment for all losses sustained by the action of the Chinese troops, and we know that the French will account for any damage, &c., done to foreign hongs during the occupation, so that all will be arranged in due course satisfactorily, we suppose. But it is a pity that the troops could not control them- selves right up to the end, and it only shews that although they can be kept in order on occasions, there are other times when discipline is thrown aside alto- gether and blind fury and revenge,, or perhaps a thievish and plundering propensity only, seizes them. It is difficult to place ourselves in their position — allowances cannot well be made under any circumstances — but Chinese troops have their feelings like every one else, and we can readily imagine that, after being defeated and driven back towards Liangkah and held in check for so many months, they, on revisiting Kelung and finding two-thirds if not three-fourths of the native city des- troyed by shot, shell, and fire, felt in anything but an amicable frame of mind. Revenge is said to be sweet, but was the pleasure worth the cost ? We have been informed by three foreigners who have visited Kelung lately^ — one previous to, and the other two subsequent to, the evacuation — that the town was in ruins, only a few houses remaining intact, said houses having been used by the French as hospitals, &c. Everyone who has been to Kelung states that the foreign houses occupied by the French for so many months, and used probably as hospitals, were found to be in a most filthy, dirty, pestilential state. We have it from very good authority that the Customs dwellings. [ lfi9 J whieli were occupied by the troops or invalids, as well also as Messrs. Lapraik & Co.'s house, were in such a state that you could scarcely enter the rooms for the stench. Chinese servants engaged in cleaning the houses out suffered most, and after two days' cleansing and washing the stench was still so abominable that it was impossible to live there without feeling at all times an inclination to vomit. Chairs, tables, &e., were pitched into sea water and allowed to soak for two days. When the Chinese soldiers entered the foreign built dwellings they found bath tubs full of filth, apparently never used excepting as dust pans. Instead of carrying them off the Chinese soldiers broke them. One gentleman in charge of a looted foreign house writes to me a week after the evacuation that the stench is so awful inside the house still that he is obliged to mess and sleep in the verandah. The houses occupied by the French wounded are said to have been found to be in such a filthy state as to cause even Kelung natives to complain. It appears that Palm islanders were not disturbed. The. natives were made to work, but were otherwise unmolested. Previous to the occupation of Palm island and Kelung Chinese dogs were never very friendly towards foreigners. Now, however, the new generation of whelps and curs go for Chinese and at the sight of a foreigner rush after him, tail at full swing and with a kindly ex- pression in their eyes, and they insist upon following you about. They must have been petted and spoiled by the French, and are now cast on the streets to forage for themselves. Goats even must have been made pets of, and we have it from good authority that they ap- proach foreigners without any fear and actually follow them about. The Palm islanders have learnt many Prench words and some of them accost you in French, addressing you [ 170 ] as " Monsieur," accent perfect, and expressions accom- panied often by a Gallic shrug of the shoulder. 2nd, 3rd July. Frightfully hot — lots of rain — then sun and steam. Barometer threatening typhoon, high set showing 30 degrees. All passed over. Heavy blows somewhere. Weather cooler, but feverish. We have not for years experienced such unhealthy weather as during the past fortnight. 4th, 5th July. Raining a good deal, and cooler. The steamer Lee-yuen arrived at Kelung, and came round to Tamsui oTi 5th. She goes to Pescadores to receive Chinese prisoners. There are eight Prench prisoners here who will shortly be sent away. The services of one of them will,, we hear, be retained. The Chinese pay prisoners and deserters well, and they are allowed to walk out at Twa- tutia on the green, but are forbidden to go to Banca. They are in charge of an American in the Chinese Army. Amatista leave to-day. Tamsui, fith July. More rain and much cooler in the afternoon. Theimometer 85 degrees. Kelung is not settling down quickly; only a few people have returned so far. Money is very scarce ; in fact, shopkeepers who lived in decent sized brick and stone buildings come back to a heap of ruins. A few are erecting temporary quarters of bamboo and grass. There never was much capital in Kelung (excepting in the shape of bricks and mor- tar), most of which was sunk several generations ago. The present generation found everything ready made, in the shape of houses and shops, and came in for them as a matter of course, the generality of people lived from hand to mouth, and if the wolf came to the door, they had perhaps their patch of paddy land or small in- terest in coal fields or coal boats to fall back on, daily [ 171 J laliour, however, being their principal capital. Houses and boats and mines all being knocked on the head, they have nothing much left. We speak of course of the shopkeeper and especially of the coolie class. The latter depended entirely on the land carriage of inland or marine produce, of coals, &c., coolie t'aos or head proprietors of chairs or boats occupying an analogous position with the proprietors of cabs and busses at home. The business of the headmen having been upset, the dependent coolies have no one to. look to in slack times, the account current suddenly closes and starva- tion or change of locality and occupation becomes ne- cessary. Many of the younger inhabitants of Kelung perhaps took to arms and assisted in more than harass- ing the French, and having no home now to return to, may change the course of their original career and be lost to the Kelung labour market. It is said the great Chinese Mandarin Wang, a high Civil Commissioner from Peking — a man said to hold superior rank to the great Liu Ming-chuan, is all in favour of resuscitating the former grandeur (?) of the town of Kelung, and we understand that certain Govern- ment assistance in the shape of coin (though the sum named is small) will be given to townspeople in distress in order to enable them to hold on to their ruined pos- sessions until they can start again in a small way. Fancy Taipingshan in Hongkong being levelled to the ground, and then a dole of $10 only being presented to the owners of decent-sized houses ! Would Taipingshan thereupon rise from the ashes like a Phoenix and rapidly resume its former splendour and gigantic proportions ? Taipingshan and the hundred thousand, say, of inhabi- tants there would have to disperse themselves and find out fresh hunting grounds or starve, unless state assist- ance was given to a large extent. And although the population of Kelung and adjacent villages may not be more than 10,000 at most (ten thousand,) something more [ 172 1 than a paltry pittance will have to be advanced by Go- vernment in order to restore the town to its pristine glory and former dirty state, and to induce the remnant of the population to return to the place and resume their ordinary pursuits. If some liberal advance is not made, then Kelung will become a poverty stricken village, de- pendent entirely on junk trade, fishing business, and the cultivation of small patches of paddy land, not extensive enough to give employment to a large population. Even the native coal miners cannot commence operations without assistance ; it will be a regular struggle to start this most important branch of the trade. Coal boats are scarce — most of them having been destroyed — and as boats were looked upon as a source of income, capital, which is so much needed, will have to be acquired to enable the old coal boatmen to build new boats and to get to work again. Junks are being loaded with coal dust for the mainland, but no foreign merchant vessel has yet arrived since the reopening of the port. The great official " Wang," the regenerator of Kelung and its trade, has a great deal to do, and if the Government coUieiy is to be re-organised, and new machinery and plant have to be sent for, " I wonder how long it will be " before the trade gets back into its old groove ! Soon after ten p.m. to-day we experienced a smart shock of an earthquake, lasting only a few seconds, direction N.E. and and S.W. 7th, 8th, and 9th July. Very hot again, especially to-day (9th). Strong S.W. breeze blowing with therm. 8fi degrees in the shade in morning ; at 4 p.m. 92. A good deal of fever, ague, and cholera about. In July and August the natives of the large towns hereabouts are attacked with something like cholera every year, and deaths occur in numbers. Unripe peaches, sour plums, green and unripe mangoes, and other stone fruits are indulged in exten- sively, as may be seen by the number of stones in the [ 173 J middle of the main streets. A drouglit makes things worse, and many succumb from the eflFects of malarial fever. The rain we have had lately improved the health of the neighbourhood considerably. 10th and 11th July. Strong S.W. monsoon on 10th, lulHug towards evening. The Fokien is in port, also the old steamer Volunteer. The Volunteer used when a merchant vessel to come to Tamsui as far back as 1864. TwATUTiA, 11th and 12th July. Very hot days, and a continuation of Joss pidgin of a special kind, including religious proeessions by torch light at night, discharges of matchlocks and dea- fening sounds of gongs to be heard day and night, and long strings of men in all sorts of garbs, some got up like devils, others like giants. Amongst the crowd pass- ing on its way to and from Banca are men and boys to be seen standing at the back of chairs containing Josses carried on men's shoulders. They seem to have a stolid and fixed look, and their attitude is rigid. They stand in a sort of theatrical position, head erect, eyes glaring and fixed, chest thrown out, small of the back arched, legs well apart, rigid and firmly planted on the wooden supports. The attitude must be considered the correct one as it is assumed by all the performers. It would appear that these men who go in for this sort of exhibition were under some sort of influence, either stupefying or stultifying. The general idea is that they are possessed temporarily by a spirit or devil and that some of them possess the power of prophesying, &c. They certainly seem impervious to pain, for many of them are gashed about the face and body and are covered with blood ; others have pieces of sharp bamboo stuck through their cheeks. There is a great deal of sickness in the town, and these processions and cere- monies are supposed to drive away the evil spirits, thought to be the cause of sickness and death. [ 174 ] I3th, 14th, 15th and Kith July. Very hot days. Never under 91 degrees in shade. Barometer falling. Something brewing. 17th July. Towards evening it blew hard and rained heavily. Bar. 30.90. 18th July. Strong wind from East by North ; towards noon N.N.W. Bar. down to 29.90. In the afternoon the barometer marked 29.89. Wind blowing strong from S.W. Heavy rains all day. The water rose very quickly over the green, which is 10 feet or so above the river. By three o'clock p.m. it rose some 10 feet more, flooding many of the Chinese and foreign hongs. There was water in the Club and one or two hongs three feet deep. Altogether we should think the water in the Banca plain rose 24 feet, in places above the ordinary level of the river. Towards 9 p.m. the wind and rain ceased and the water fell rapidly. Many bamboo and grass hoiises on the Twatutia green were washed away, and a few lives were lost. The steamer liailoong, we hear, drag- ged her anchors and got on shore or was run on shore to get out of strong current, we do not know which. 19th July. A great quantity of wreckage is lying about, and much damage has been done to the walls, &c. Baro- meter up to 30.09. A good deal of misery exists amongst the poor, whose houses have been washed away. Warm, muggy, steamy, unhealthy weather prevails. The flood will have flushed the town drains and will make the place healthier, it is to be hoped. The Hailoong is all safe and got away for Amoy at 3 p.m. Great sickness is reported to prevail at Kelung, where the soldiers are dying at the rate of thirty and more per day. 175 1 APPENDIX. DECREE ANNOUNCING CHINESE VICTOEY AT TAMSUI; PUBLISHED NOVEMBER 6th, 1884. Liu Ming- ch'uan reports that the French forces having made an assault on Hn-wei, the Impiriiil trovips gave them battle, and gained a victory under circumstances which he describes. The French fleet being stationed at T'aipei, Hu-wei and other places, the French troops made a vigorous attack upon the 8th of October, and landed. Sun K'ai-hua, Pi-ovincial Commander-in-Chief, advanced by- different routes to attack them with the forces under his command, Chang Kao-yuan, Provincial Commander-in-Chief, and others, also leading their divisions aginst tiie enemy.* The French troops were r.'pulsed, and again advanced several times, but our troops engaged them at close quarters. Sun K'ai-hua making a direct advance upon them with his men, and be- heading the officer bearing the standard, which he captured, besides killing about 300 of the enemy. Being unable to hold their owu, the enemy fled in confusion and were defeateil, numbers of those who retreat- ed to the sea shore being drowned in the struggle to get to the boats. It is naturally fitting that rewards of an exceptionally liberal charac- ter should be bestowed upon those officers who specially distinguished themselves upon the occasion. The bravery, loyalty, and martial prowess displayed by Sun K'ai-hua, Acting Commander-in-Chief of land forces in Fuhkien, whose name is recorded for a substantive appointment to this rank and who holds the position of Brigadier-General of the Chang- chou Divi.sion, are especially deserving of commendation, he having placed himself in the van of battle; and as a special Act of Grace We hereby command that he be invested with the hereditai-y title of Ch'i-tu-yii, or noble of the 7th grade. Also that the following articles be bestowed upon him : — 1 Feather -tube of white jade. 1 Thumb-ring of white jade. 1 Dagger with a handle of white jade. 1 Flint and steel. 1 Pair of large pouches. 2 Small pouches. Liu Ming-ch'uan represents that Chang Kao-yuan, Provincial Com- mander-in-Chief, has already been recommended for rewa:' !s in the Ke- luni' affair, and that Brigadier -General Liu Chao-yn being' his, tho Memorialist's, great-nephew, he does not apply for rewards for either of * Tbe Officer was wounded and carried to tlie rear, and waa on his way attacked and lieheadcd witli the Iwo sailors whu carried him. Sun was nn the point of retreating, but Colonel lii advanced and w n. French ojily lett fourteen killed on the ground. — Author, L 176 J theae officers. As they have both, however, distinguished themselves in battle tbey should naturally receive marks of special favour as well as the rest, and We hereby command that a. white jade ieathei'-tube, a, white jade thumb-ring, a dagger with a handle of white jade, a flint and steel, and a pair of large pouches be bestowed respectively on Chang Kao-yuan and Liu Chao-yu. Chang Kao-yuan will farther be committed to the Board for the determination of the most liberal forms of reward, and Liu Chao- yu will have the brevet of Provincial Commander-in-Chief bestowed upon him. A long list of rewards that are bestowed upon various officers here follows, one of whom obtains the distinction of the Yellow Eiding Jacket, while two are to have their names recorded for appointment to the post of Brigadier-General upon a vacancy occurring. Others receive the title of baturu in addition to the bestowal of brevet rank, while others, again, are to be honoured with the decoration of the peacock's feather. The Decree concludes with the announcement that Her Majesty the Empress Dowager has ordered the sum of Tls. 10,OuO from the Privy Purse to be bestowed upen the soldiery who displayed bravely during the action, ami calls upon Liu Ming-ch'uau to continue rigorously to resist the insults ol the i'oe. ENGAGEMENT BETWEEN EEENCH AND CHINESE TEOOPS AT TAMSUI. MEMORIAL FROM LIU-MING-CH'TJAN, PUBLISHED IN MANI7SCEIPT "PEKING GAZETTE" OFNOVEMBEE Hth,1884. His Majesty's Slave Liu Ming-ch'uan, Director of Affairs in Formosa, who holds the brevet of Provincial Governor, humbly submits the fol- lowing report, showing how the enemy's troops were lauded and attacked Hu-wei, when our troops fought a sanguinary battle and gained a victory. The Memorialist has already reported to His Majesty the details of attack by different divisions of French fleet upon Hu-wei, and of the energetic resistance that was offered by detachments of the Chinese troops selected as reinforcements for that place. On the 4th of October the French fleet was reinforced by three vessels, ma,king a total of eight in all, and these opened fire from their heavy guns against the Hu-wei forts, the cannonade being kept up on successive days. So unintermittent and fierce was this fire that our troops were unable to maintain their ground, and Sun K'ai-hua, Chang Kao-yuan and Liu Chao-y ou had no resource but to conceal their troops in the woods which skirted the shore, where the men remained on the alert, passing the nights in the open air, afraid to take any rest whatsoever. At 5 a.m. om the 8th the enemy's ships suddenly dispersed, and Sun K'ai- hua, feeling assured from certain indications that a force would be landed, directed Kung Chan-ao, the officer in charge of the right wing of tiie Cho -Sheng regiment, to conceal himself in a place know as Chia Chang, or "dummy creek," Li Ting-ming, who commanded the central division of the same regiment, having orders to lie in ambush in a place called Yii-ch'e K'ou, while Fan Hui-yi, officer in command of the rear ■division, was directed to hold himself in reserve in the rear. Chang Kao-yuan and Liu- Chao-yu ensconced themselves with two battalions, each from different regiments, behind the hill at the back of the large fort [ 177 ] in crder to prevent the enemy from circumventing our forces, and a bat- talion of the hiHinen enrolled by Li T'ung-en, under Chang Li-ch'eng, were oouceuled in a gully in the hill on the northern road. Th.:!se arrangements had just been completed wl\en a lateral fire was opened by the enemy's ships, which discharged no less than several hundred rounds from their heavy guns, filling the sky with smoke and flanip, the shell falling round like hail. While this fire was going on, about a thousand of the enemy's troops were embarked in launches and foreign boats and landed at three points ou the shove, from whence they made a straight rush for the fort, their bearing being fierce in the ex- treme. As soon as Sun K'ai-hua saw that the enemy were pressing close upon him he stopped their advance at different points with the aid of Li Ting- ming and Fan Hui-yi, Chang Kao-yuan and others advancing to the attack from the northern road. The enemy's men were armed with weapons of precision and fought with all their might, the stuggle lasting without intermission from 7 a.m. till noon. Time after time were they driven back, but they advanced again and again. Our men engaged them fiercely at close quarters, Chang-Li-oh'ing attacking them on t;he flank, while Sua K'ai-hua assailed them boldly in the front and killed a standard bearer, capturing the flag which he carried. The zeal of our men was increased when they witnessed the capture of the flag, and a simultaneous rush was made from every side upon the enemy, twenty- five of whom were beheaded, amongst them being two officers, exclusive of about three hundred killed by musketry fire. The enemy, being unable to hold their own, finally broke and fled, our men pursuing them to the sea shore, where some seventy or more were drowned in the struggle to get to the boats. The enemy's ships while endeavouring to cover this retreat with their guns struck one of their own steam-launches, and a G-atling gun which had been left behind wis captured by our men. The two divisions under the command of Sun K'ai-hua were the foremost to carry out his plans, and bore the brunt of the fight for a lono-er period than any others ; they had consequently the largest number of casualties, three lieutenants being killed and over a hundred privates. AU the other battalions also suffered loss. The above particulars of the victory were reported to the Memorialist by Sun K'ai-hua, and he would draw attention to the fierce attack made by the enemy's troops on this occasion upon, the port of Hu-wei, when they landed their men with a fixed determination to gain the day, the intensity of their resolve to fight to the death being evidenced by the fact that their boats stood out to sea as soon as the men been landed, in order to cut off their retreat. After the destruction of the foi-t our men had no guns to protect them, and had to rely solely on their own muscle in the deadly struggle that took place. Though shot and shell rained down upon them their courage never failed them, nor did they once flinch, and in spite of the odds against them they managed to behead the standard-bearer and frustrate the fierce intentions of the foe, therein assuredly displaying energy of no ordinary kind. The Memorialist then proceeds to mention certain of the most deserv- ing officers, naming the form of reward which he suggests should be bestowed on each. Sun K'ai-hiia heads the list, his name being followed by that of the commanders of the battalions who led the van of the fight. A list of the rewards bestowed upon the most prominent of those officers will be found in the Decree of 7th November, announcing the victory. 1 178 ] KELUNG AND NEIGHBOURHOOD. KELUNG. A description of Kelung City (as it is called) and the country around, which forms the Bay of Kelung, may perhaps interest some of my readers, especially those who are watching the movements of the French ships-of-war at the various ports where pressure is being brought to bear on the Chinese Government. Kelung, the first place in these latitudes attacked and made to suffer by the French fleet, is noted chiefly for its coal trade, but nothing else, excepting, perhaps, for a certain species of black skinned, black b(med, and partially bla«k fleshed fowl, a gallinaceous specimen of the domestic fowl, to be found in the north of the island only, as far as our knowledge goes. A fowl of this description does not look so inviting to a stranger, eating it for the first time, but it is not despised by the residents of either Tamsui or Kelung, who are compelled to eat more fowl flesh than anything else during the hot months of the year. In the opinion of certain connoisseurs in such matters, the black-fleshed fowl is considered superior to the or- dinary domestic fowl to be found here as elsewhere. The harbour or Bay of Kelungrunsin a south-easterly and south-westerly direction. At the south-west end of the bay is situated the town of Kelung, and at the north- east end t aim Island runs from west to east, considerably land-locking the port. There is, however, a broad. entrance between Image Point and Ruin Rock on the western side of the entrance and Bush Island, a small island covered with bushes and on which a bea- con is erected adjoining Palm Island though separat- ed from it at high tides and during storms. The bay IS surrounded by hills sloping down almost to the [ 179 ] water's edge. Those on the water side are remarkably green and pleasant to the eye and appear from the direc- tion of the stratum (composed of sandstone throughout) as if at some not very remote geological period a sub- sidence had taken place, causing the land to slope towards the east, and in contrast thereto the hills, form- ing the eastern border of the bay, seem as if they had been raised or tilted upwards, the space between the subsidence and upheaval forming the inlet or harbour we are attempting to describe. The hills on both sides and in rear of the town of Kelung are more or less covered with tropical looking trees, plants, and undergrowth, pleasing to look at, but in the summer months the hot- beds of fever and malaria. The general appearance of the country reminds one, on entering the port for the first time, very much of Nagasaki harbour. Just where Desima, the abode of early Dutch settlers, is situated in Nagasaki, Kelung City is placed in Kelung bay. The Chinese town of Kelung is without doubt the filthiest abode of human beings in the whole island. It is built on low marshy land, originally perhaps a mud flat formed by the filling in of the harbour. A more miserable and unhealthy site, in a semi-tropical, rainy locality, could not have been pitched upon. In front of the town is a huge mud flat at low water, and in rear and on each side are innumerable stagnant pools of filth, the stench from which on a hot steamy day is enough to knock one down. The houses of Kelung, for the most part one storied, are built of sandstone and brick. The principal streets have the usual covered way (peculiar to Formosan towns) on each side of the street, i.e., the roof of each house, the whole length of each ward, is made to project well over the road, the projecting part being supported by brick or stone pillars or by walls with openings leading into an open Space or road. The central space between the covered ways or verandahs is generally used by chair coolies and people carrying goods or produce. Rubbish [ 180 ] and garbage of all kinds are thrown into it, and it is generally in a filthy state even in the finest weather. Under the covered ways, shopkeepers display their wares, and hawkers of fruit, &c., place their stands. You have to pick your way between these obstacles, and in the busy part of the town it is anything but agreeable. The market place is the purgatorial portion of the town to pass through ; it is perhaps just as well to draw a veil over the sickening sights you are com- pelled to witness there. The frightful stenches, too, ever varying, always powerful, which rise from the covered drains under your feet cause you to hurry along at a most undignified pace. It rains heavily and often a;t Kelung, and on a very wet day the whole neighbour- hood looks at its worst if, however, it were not for the amount of rainfall, which must to a certain extent cleanse the town, the place would be imfit for habita- tion. Some twenty years ago the pepulation was stated to be about 8,000 to 10,000 souls, and we do not think it has 'increased very much during the interval, not tak- ing the soldier element into consideration. In the early days of foreign residence there, the townspeople were particularly unfriendly towards foreigners, but in the sixties, (between 1864/9) they were on more than one occasion brought to their senses, and of late years they have developed into a comparatively mild and well behaved population, as far as their conduct towards foreigners is considei-ed. The dogs of the town are numerous and as uncivii " as they make them " in a idomesticated state. If you have the misfortune to be spotted by one of them on entering the main street, you 'can depend on all the other dogs giving tongue in the usual cheerful and friendly (?) way, often noticeable dn other Chinese towns through which the foreign "bar- barian" is accustomed to frequently pass. The key note having been given by the first observant friend of iuan, is taken up by every dog in the street, and the [ 1«1 ] yelping, barking, growling, and snarling which accom- panies you, through the dirty town causes one to feel, I inast confess it, most murderously inclined. But there is an end to everything but space, which cannot be fathomed; understood, or explained by any one. Never- theless, you'finallyemergefrom. the town and find your- self in the- open, and then you appreciate the luxury of breathing comparatively pure air again. The worst part of the- town is to^ be- avoided by travellers from Tamsuii by passing; straight down the first street you come' to and making direct for the- water's edge, where yoU' can almost depend on finding a sampan, to take you to any part of the harbour. Immediately you leave behind you this town, redolent of anything but roses or violets, you very soon arrive at a wooden plank bridge, thrown over the bed of a stream] issuing' from, a valley to your right, down' which at certain states of the tide coal boats are able to move, and on the-banks of which in days- gone by snipe abounded. The stream, at this point is shallow but^ broad. A few hundred yards to- the- eastward it be- comes a narrow sort'- of canalj. and at the further ex- tft-emity of the- plain> encircled by hills alLfall of coal,, it vanishes, into a mere- mountain streamlet and if you flbllbw its course up a rather steep valley you will' before- long arrive- at the pheasant country, — in days gone- by,, when pleasants aboimded, commonly called the- Shooty- bird-man's side-. The cover in this neighbourhood just suited the pheasants, and notwithstanding the hard work hunting them up entailed, good bags could be made for several years after the advent of foreigners in Kelung. Such was the- eagerness on the part of residents audi visitors, who came almost purposely for the shootings, that the natives thought that there must besomehidden virtue in the flesh of this beautiful bird, and the sport- ing farmers in the neighbourhood went in for snaring them and capturing even the hens when sitting to such [ 18.3 ] ail extent that they may be said to hiive ahnost for a time killed the goose with the golden egg. At one time birds were hawked about Kelung and Tamsui, alive generally, and the supply became so numerous that the price went down as low as 200 cash per bird. The result of this massacre or snaring of the innocents was that nearly all the hens were destroyed, and pheasants, which were to be found in numbers previously, became quite scarce. We must not, however, travel too far away. On the opposite side of the wooden bridge be- fore mentioned you at once come to a small village, an appanage, so to speak, of Kelung, and at the further end of it you arrive at the ruins of an old gateway sup- ported by the feeble remains of an old wall. To the left are the barracks formerly occupied by Generals Tsao and his soldiers ; the barracks are erected on a small eminence jutting out into the mud flat, and are sur- rounded by a wall. Passing through the dilapidated old gateway you descend into a road composed of flag stones and sandstones laid a foot or two above high water mark, and at the bottom of the steep bluff forming the eastern boundary of the bay. You wind your way along the stone pathway past a burial ground and very soon come to a lot of lime kilns everlastingly burning bits of coral rock ; in fact, manufacturing chunam. Another sort of straggling pigsty of a place looms out of the choking smoke clouds, which you must pass through — the houses, chiefly matsheds, covering the heads of the poorest class of people ; nothing but pigs, dogs, and filth- — when suddenly you find yourself under the covered way of projecting roofs of houses forming a village called in old charts the "Market Place." It is composed of one street of houses of only one story, and here it was that early residents squatted. Their first years were spent in a miserable, leaky, " haunted house." No Chinaman would live in it. 'I he Customs was next door, a frightful, low shanty of a place, suitable more fo,v [ J«3 J Chinamen of the fisherman class perhaps, bnt certainly not for Europeans. Where are those who then lived in these and neighbouring quarters now P Nearly all have joined the majority ! But on we must go, and the sooner we leave this pestilential, neighbourhood the better. It takes not ten minutes to traverse the main or rather only street, when you emerge into comparatively a seventh heaven of the country. From this point you get a good view of the entrance of the bay, of Palm Island, River Rock, and the wedge-shaped island of Kelung. You find yourself in a small sandy way with huge buttress- shaped, hills on- your right, rising perpendicularly in places. You experience at once that you are in a region of healthy marine atmosphere. There is a briny smack about the place^and when a strong north-easter is blow- ing you inhale the. scent of sea-weed, which has a most freshening, and invigorating effect on you-, and soon eradicates all the evil sensations resulting from your half-hour's trudge- through the town and suburb, let us call them,. of that abominable city of drains called Kelunp-. As we write now there are foreign houses in this little bay, of a very poor style of architecture ; coal yards appear on your right, and signs of attempts at filling in^ incipient jetties sprout out across what might have been a road. A few hundred yards brings you to an enorm^ ously long building (the first foreign house built here),, erected by a foreign merchant who thought that Kelung would be- allowed ta live- and; thrive, and that it wa& prudent to built a good-sized estabhshment at first rather than have to rebuild later on. After passing this huge mistake, you come to another little bay with three Cus- toms buildings therein, built in the bungalow fashion ;, they always look nice- and trim, clean and neat, but have required repairs almost every year since they were first; built. Had the material of the houses in question been levelled to make good foundations, which are not to be found in this " Goodwin sands " of a bay, and double [ 184. J storied houses had been raised thereon, much expense would have been spared and several Customs officers might have been vi^alking the earth instead of disappear- ing from the face thereof prematmrely. At the back of the Customs are high bluffs, as there are in rear of the other houses ; some of them slightly overhang and threaten to crush the buildings below. Adjoining almost the Customs buildings is an old-fashioned fort, the ap- proach to which from the sea is rendered impossible in rough weather. Opposite this fort the sandstone stratum takes a big incline dowai to the water's edge, and from the constant dashing of stormy waves the softer parts of the sandstone have been worn away, leaving the harder portions remaining and exposing an inclined plain very much resembling a badly treated old gridiron. At about low water mark are visible ugly split rocks, upturned edges of strata that have been lifted up and twisted about abominably. The rude storms experienced in the north-east monsoon have caused the surface o" this part of the shore to become a very dangerous place to be wrecked upon. It was here that the French bark Jdele and the British vessel Westward Ho left tbeir bones in the typhoon of the 9th of August, 1871. Passing this you soon come to the " New Fort," built at so mueh expense by the Chinese Government, and which was de- molished by the French fleet on the 5th August, 1884. This fort is situated in a sandy stretch, and we believe that no solid bottom could be found at a great depth. Wooden piles and even teak beams and cross pieces were used to form a sufficiently strong foundation to hold the stone superstructure. After all the expense and trouble it was rendered useless after twenty minutes of canno- nading from the French ships. The sandy beach con- tinues for several hundred yards, and between it and the New Fort, lately destroyed, is a stream of water, spanned by a wooden plank. You walk along this exposed sandy shore, and find yourself right opposite the entrance of [ 185 J the harbour. As a rule in the north-east monsoon, the waves here come tumbling in one after the other, creating a rumbling, hustling sound, then retreating with a harsh, sighing, grating noise as the water hurries back again. No better bathing can be had anywhere than here, if you like swimming in breakers, which curl over your head and back, and it is very jolly if you dive through them and allow the frothy water to dash over you. Every time you raise your head to take a breath you inhale pure briny air, which cannot be got, strange to say, anywhere near Tamsui. The water seems loaded with salt, and is very much denser and more buoyant than it is on the west coast. In the harbour sharks are seldom caught or seen, though in storms they are often driven in and young ones get caught in the nets, and are sold in the market place. O-utside Bush Island and Image Point, and all the way down the east coast, sharks abound. When the steamer Laptekhyoke up in Masoo Bay to the west of Kelung, and several lives were lost, out of nine bodies only one was recovered and that was partly eaten by sharks. On the occasion ^^e went out armed to recover bodies, and found the bay infested with these man-eating fish. At the sight of the dorsal fins appearing above water many were the shots levelled at these monsters with right good will. In rear of this long stretch of yellow, sandy beach is a village where the toilers of the sea reside. The place is not worth entering, but if you pass through it you find that there is a break in the hills behind, and a valley opens out to view. Following the pathway, you very soon discover farm houses and cottages, surrounded by the usual paddy field and clumps of bamboos. Con- tinuingyourexplorationsyou quickly cometorisingground and find yourself breasting the mountain side up what is called a military road, and on arriving at the top of a ridge of the hills you look down on Coal Harbour or bay, with the broad Pacific in the distance. The coast [ ^SG ] appears very rugged, and in a strong northerly breeze immense waves are to be seen dashing over the serrated edged rocks which run at some distance from the shore. It is worth any one's while walking in the rainiest, blowiest day from Kelung up this valley to get a glimpse of the angry sea as it appears from the top of the valley. Returning, however, to the sandy beach opposite the fort, and wending your way over the sloping hills which slide down to the water's edge, you soon arrive at what is called Junk Passage, an opening between Palm Island and Eormosa, leading from the outer harbour into Coal Harbour — a passage that all boats for the colliery take, as well as trading East Coast junks bound for Tao Sia, the port of Kapsulan, and Soa-oh, a port some twelve miles to the south of Tao Sia and Steep Island. The distance from the city of Kelung to Junk Passage wiU perhaps not cover more than three miles as the crow flies, though by the tortuous road it may possibly be four miles. It may be said that here terminates the north- eastern end of the harbour, and perhaps it would be better to cross the narrow passage and and explore Palm Island, but we will leave it for the present and take a sampan across from Junk Passage toward " Ruin Rock," the broadest part of the bay. On passing across the deep part of what is called the outer anchorage you get a splendid view of the sur- rounding country, and if the weather is bright and fine you will admit that in no other port in China is there such clear sea water. [ 1«7 ROUND ABOUT KELUNG. Before arriving at Ruin Rock you pass a reef which runs right into the bay, forming a sort of breakwater and partly dividing the outer from the inner harbour. The depth inside the inner harbour is not, I believe, much more than 2i to 3 fathoms. Vessels drawing over 1 6 feet generally go outside into the outer harbour to finish loading, where there is enough water to float vessels drawing 25 feet and more. Ships riding at anchor in a north-easter roll and pitch a good deal, and sometimes drag. In typhoons the outer bay is not con- sidered a snug anchorage if the wind is from the N. and N.E. quarter. Inside the reef the harbour is filling up rapidly; where vessels of the schooner class of say 120 to 250 tons capacity used some 20 years ago to lie com- fortably, only junks can do so now. Unless something is done towards preventing the throwing overboard of sand and mud ballast by junks in the coahng trade, and measure are taken to recover the muddy flats in the neighbourhood of Kelung city, through which the stream from the shooty-bird-mans-side flows, the depth of water must become less and less year by year. Running your sampan or gig past the reef afore- mentioned, and passing over no end of rocks, which appear to be a few inches under water, but are really two or three feet at the least, you beach in a nice sandy little corner of the bay, in which you find several cot- tages built of stone and lumps of coral or rock and adjoining or in rear of which is a dilapidated and very common type of Chinese fort fast disappearing. A high blufii' rises up, forming a sort of headland, and which is really the western extremity of the harbour. The headland seems to have been severed from the other L 188 ] hills composing the boundary of tins side of the har- bour, and a huge chasm offers a passage to another bay which you get a good view of from a ship's deck on the starboard side as you enter the port. This headland or promontory, whether seen fi'om the sea or shore, is most picturesque, more so from the western or outer bay than from the Ruin Rock or Kelung harbour side. On passing through the chasm, you observe wavelike curves high up the sides of the sandstone formation, evidently waveworn thousands of years previous to the sudden upheaval which must have taken place in this neigh- bourhood, anterior at any rate to the raising of the land above the present level. There are many evidences on both sides of the bay to prove that the land has been elevated many feet above the sea level in comparatively " recent times." In addition to the waveworn indica- tions referred tO', specimens of shell-fish have been found, embedded in the blue clay stratum some six to ten feet below the alluvial top stratum of the Banca plain. In the beds of blue clay to be seen peeping out under the upper stratum forming the banks of the Kelung rapids and on both sides thereof, more than fifty feet above the sea level, principally between Sick-kow and Tchui-ten- kah, shoals of small shell-fish, mixed up with huge specimens of the Tridacua-gigas can be seen. The small shells scarcely bear handling, but the larger dnes are in good preservation. Living specimens of the Tridacua are found in the sea, on the West Coast of the island. In the Kelung rapids, as well as those up the main branch of the Tamsui River, the beds of old rapids are discernible many feet above the line of the highest floods. The action of the sea on many parts of Palm Island is plainly visible on the sandstone rocks at a considerable height above the present level, all of which would indicate either a gradual or spasmodic rising of certain parts of these islands. In the same way there are numerous indications of terrific upheavals [ ISO ] and subsidences. For instance, Kelung island, indeed the whole country around Kelung, bears evidence of volcanic eruptions. But vi^e are deviating again. The other end of the chasm referred to opens out to view a semi-circular bay surrounded by hills about 200 to 300 feet high, and in rear of which are moun- tains which run westward, forming the mountain range which crosses the north end of the island extending as far as Tamsui, the highest point thereof being 3,600 feet. If you turn to the left on leaving the chasm you soon arrive at a cave, which is considered one of the sights of the place. An old priest or Jossman is generally in charge, and in anticipation of a cumshavi? from the "barbarian," he will take you along the subterranean passage as far as you can go in an upiight position. If you wish to continue your explorations you will have to take the light yourself and progress on all fours, which is scarcely worth the trouble, considering that the passage leads to nothing, is always dirty, and often wet and sloppy. The longest passage is straight opposite the entrance ; there is an- other to the left. It used to be said that the cave led all the way to Tamsui, and many Chinese believe that it does. The entrance is lofty, and there is a good large space of about fifteen by twenty feet. At the further end, on a sort of altar, are displayed certain porcelain images and other paraphernalia ; likewise a few good speci.uens of coral rock, &c. It is a deliciously cool spot on a very hot day, but a damp and chilly place in cold rainy weather. 'J'he cave runs through a sandstone stratum which appears cracked in many places ; the water from the soil above filters through and makes the sides and roof of the passages damp and slimy. On leaving the cave, if you continue your way round this outer bay, you come to a large fishing village, and fur- ther on smaller collections of houses and huts stud the beach at various intervals. The view from the village of the Bluff is most picturesque, especially on a moon- L 190 J light night, when every curve and angle of the sharp jagged edge of this curious headland stands out in bold relief. In bad weather the sea washes over the shingly beach and dashes itself up against the coral capped rocks, sending the spray high in the air. The noise of the waves retreating and rushing over the round stones and broken shells which coves the beach creates a harsh and deafening sound. In bright, hot weather there is no cooler or better spot for whiling away an hour than under the Bluff. The gentle play of the cool sea breeze, the deep shade of the overhanging rocks, the sighing sound of the rippling water, as it plashes softly over the loose stones and shells, the placid blue sea before you, are all simply delightful. Retracing your steps through the gorge again, you find yourself at Ruin Rock, a piece of soft sands- tone resembling a ruin, but of what no one can conceive. It is wearing away rapidly by exposure to the weather, and soon nothing but the name will be left. From this point up to the town of Kelung the hills slopes almost to the water's edge. A few, fishing villages and coal yards fringe this side of the bay, but the want of build- ing space of any size has perhaps prevented the ex- tension of the town in this direction. The approach therefrom is interfered with by small and marshy inlets, also by deep fissures in the rocks which run in places right into the water, as well as by numerous gullies and watercourses. Although Kelung town is in a horri- bly bad situation, the surrounding country is very beautiful. At the back of the town are a number of hills, roughly speaking about 500 to 600 feet high, forming an irregular half circle round the town, broken up some- what by deep ravines, and in places covered with long jungly grass and numerous trees and bushes of varying hue which give this part of the country a very tropical appearance. On the sides of the hills low down are scattered here and there farm houses, hidden almost [ 191 ] from view by bamboo plantations and clumps of betel trees. On the sides of the hills are to be seen gigantic specimens of tree ferns and numerous kinds of ferns. On the road leading to Liangkah there used to be a few years back specimens of raspberry bushes and of holly — rather unexpected sights in a semi-tropical climate like that of Kelung ! The ascent up the hill leading to Liangkah is rather steep. It is over this hill that the produce from the plain of Banca (rice, sugar, indigo, hemp, &c.) finds its way to Kelung, and fish is carried from Kelung to the inland towns and villages. Very early in the morning you meet numbers of men carry- ing baskets of salt fish — very small kind of fish — the odour from which on a hot summer's day is anything but agreeable. Travellers usually go by chair from Ke- lung to Liangkah, the pull over the hills being rather stiff in the summer months. It is a little over an hour's walk from the Custom House to Liangkah, at which place you can engage a rapid boat which will take you all the way to Tamsui. When you arrive at the top of the hill overlooking the town you get a splendid view of the bay, and on a clear day you can distinctly see Palm Island and Kelung Island, and far away out at sea are visible Pinnacle Rocks, Craig and Agincourt is- lands, looking in the distance mere specks on the flat desert of water. If instead of following the road leading to Liangkah you leave the town by a road leading up a ravine to the east, you find yourself in a lovely little valley, well wooded, with a pathway running alongside a stream which, if followed up for a short distance, brings you to a pretty little cascade, a nice place for a pic-nic, if you can only be sure of no rain. After passing the cascade you quickly arrive at the top of the hill, and if you incline to the left and cross the tops of these highlands you very soon find yourself looking down on the rapids in the neighbourhood of Wan Wan. When Kelung [ 192 ] was taken in the early part of October, the Chinese troops retreated over the hills leading to Liangkah, and the French are said to have followed them there without receiving much opposition. Subsequently they advanced in the direction of Wan Wan, up the ravine and past the cascade, through the wooded country just alluded to, and it was in this jungly locality that their course has been checked for so long. All land operations have been made in this direction during the past three or four months, and when it is considered that Wan Wan is not two hours' walk from Kelung, the progress made by the French has been remarkably slow. No doubt they waited for reinforcements, and for that reason moved but very slowly, yet if all the native ac- counts are true, they must have met with considerable opposition from the Chinese sharpshooters, who, taking advantage of the extensive cover and knowledge of the country, must have harassed the French much more than was perhaps expected by them. The main road leading to the principal towns in the Banca plain runs on the opposite side of the rapids, and although the French are in possession of Wan Wan and the hills overlooking the rapids, they are perhaps not numerous enough to consider it politic to cross the water just yet (February, 1885.) We have travelled round the bay of Kelung, and have now to retrace our steps to Palm Island, which deserves some notice. Palm Island, which is on the port side as you enter the harbour, is so called from the fact of a few trees of a small species of palm being found growing on the very top as well as on the slopes of the hills. Bush Island, which is annexed to Palm Island, and can be approached on foot when the tide is low and there is no big sea on, runs out towards the entrance of the bay. A few bushes are to be seen on the highest rocks, and at the very point of the rocky promontory is the Customs beacon, visible in the day- L 193 J time for some miles out to sea. The best beacon, how- ever, is Kelung Island, a volcanic rock rising high out of the water, and from its peculiar shape it cannot well be mistaken for any other island in the neighbourhood. It is situated outside Palm Island, and vessels rounding Petow Point from the eastward or Foki Point from the westward, can always tell to a nicety where they are, and can shape their course accordingly, when this wedge-shaped island looms in sight. Palm Island consists of several small hills, abrupt and preci- pitous towards the sea side and sloping and flat towards the harbour side. It runs almost east and west; the easterly end forming one side of Junk Passage, the other end tapering away towards Bush Island. It is crossed in one or two places by small, narrow, and tor- tuous valleys, and is nearly divided into two parts by a channel of water which has almost worn its way across. In earlier times, before the elevation of the island to its present height above water, the sea must have flowed freely through this passage, as a well worn bed has been cut out of the sandstone formation of which the island is almost entirely composed. In fact, at the present day, the water at very high tides nearly crosses, and in ty- phoon weather it dashes far inland and meets the water which flows through a sort of natural canal issuing from' the bay side. On each side of this passage the hills rise in places almost perpendicularly, huge blocks of rock have slipped down, exposing a uniform stratum of hght coloured sandstone, embedded in which are seen numerous round, hard stones, some the size of a football, others three or four times as large. These balls seem, to be composed of sandstone, indurated externally with something resem- bling a shell of ironstone. On passing through this break in the hills, a most extraordinary sight presents itself — a picture suitable for a drop scene in a theatre. In the distance is the beautiful blue sea, and in the very centre of the picture, emerging from the depths of the shining, [ 194 ] sparkling water, rises Kelung island, towering high into the air ; not a sign of vegetation on its rocky perpen- dicular sides, excepting perhaps a few patches of coarse grass on the lower ledges near the base, around which even in the calmest weather there appears always to be a silvery wreath of foam caused by the ever restless waves. In the foreground are several enormous sand- stone rocks (part of Palm Island) of the most grotesque shapes, worn away by the constant friction of the waves, polished as smooth as glass, save where in places the sharp edges of ancient oyster shells protrude them- selves, or fossilised branches of plants exhibit their forms, looking more like the productions of a sculptor than those of nature, brought to light, after being hidden for ages by the action of the same element which caused their imprisonment. All round these mis-shapen masses of rock are innumerable cylindrical shaped pillars of soft sandstone capped by round balls of harder rock encased in an outer covering of ironstone, most of them resem- bling huge specimens of " puff balls " or enormous cocoanuts stuck on very substantial supports — a game all ready prepared for giants to play at. The ap- pearance of these curious shaped rocks, large and small, ranging from two feet and up to twelve or fifteen feet high, more numerons than " Long Meg and her daugh- ters," and of the btoken and jagged rocks forming the higher ground on each side of the entrance to the Channel, the perfectly flat floor of solid sandstone between, on which this family of rocks with heads on are scattered about, all suggest a scene from the Arabian Nights, which one has read of in one's boyhood. Just the sort of place where one would expect to meet Sindbad the Sailor out for a stroll. On a moon- light night the northern coast of Palm Island looks very picturesque and beautiful; beyond my powers of des- criptions altogether; and in stormy weather the view,from any of the higher rocks, of the sea dashing and breaking [ 195 J up against this rugged coast is of the wildest and grandest kind. In the neighbourhood of this tribe of roaks, not twenty feet above the level floor of the water- worn channel, which, by the bye, must be from thirty to forty yards or more wide (I write from recollection), and on the right side, looking towards Kelung island^ you will find a small cave called the Dutch Cave. The entrance is narrow and the apartmant very small ; it will only contain two or three persons, and is not more than seven feet or so high. There are a few names cut in the walls bearing rather ancient dates. One name "Schenck" has a date underneath it which takes you back to the days of the Dutch occupation of Formosa, but it is not certain whether these Datch sounding names have not been engraved by some waggish 'Arry of the present century. The hills of Palm Island are covered with a coarse kind of grass which sheep would turn up their noses at, and goats even do not seem to relish. Here and there on the slopes are sweet potato fields to be met with, and in the narrow gorges or valleys through which small streams of fresh water flow there are a few sickly look- ing paddy fields of a very meagre shape and size. The level portion of the island consists of a top stratum com- posed of triturated sandstone, mixed with a very small modicum of soil washed down from the hills, containing also a very large percentage of broken shells, also a fair sprinkling of coal, which abounds and increases daily round the shores of the island. The soil appears good for potato growing, and the Chinese seem to be of that opinion, for a good large space is taken up by potato fields, interspersed with patches of peanuts, cabbages, and beds of onions, &c. There are two small villages, a short distance apart, at the Junk Passage end of the island, comfortably situated on the beach and sheltered from the northerly gales by the hills in rear. The houses are nearly all [ 196 ] made of stone and coral rock, are one-storied, and not very inviting-looking residences as regards the interior. Tlie male population are almost all fishermen. Some tMrenty years ago there were a good number of Pepo- whans residing at Palm Island, but only a remnant of them are now left. They are for the most part women that one sees now-a-days who have married Chinese fishermen and have assumed the Celestial garb and in addition a small strip of Red Long Ells plaited in their hair. Although dressed in Chinese clothes, it does not I'equire a man to be a very close observer to distinguish the difterence between a pure bred Pepo-whan girl and a China-woman. The women in nearly all the towns of Formosa, and in villages even, unless they are Hakka villages, wear their feet cramped and are what are called small-footed women. In every town yt)u will see a certain number of large footed wo- men of the servant-class, who either come from Canton, or are Hakkas, or young Pepo-whans engaged as sei-vants to the more fashionable and aristocratic ladies with the lily feet. The Pepo-whan women we refer to are fine, strong looking girls ; they hold them- selves erect and step out with a firm and elastic gait. They are modest and respectful in their manner and have none of that assumed fear, false bashfulness, or mock prudery so affected by the small footed Chinese women of the large towns. Although these Pepo-whan damsels wear the same clothes as Chinese women they do not look like them ; there is something about the shape of their heads and the expression of their eyes which betrays a savage origin. They look at you in an honest, fearless way, not with either impudent curiosity or furtively and stealthily as Chinese women do. If you address them politely they reply in a natural and plea- sant way, unless they have been taught by their Chinese sisters to giggle and make a rapid retreat at the very sight of the Western barbarian. [ 197 J The Pepowhans of Palm Island^ as well as those living at Kelung and elsewhere in tlie noi'th, speak a language which contains ma»ny Mafey words, and they are no doubt partly descended from Malays, or a mix- ture of Malays and aborigines of the pkin fends of Formosa, and are- nx)st probably the descendants of the savages of the' western pMns whO' were on such friendly terms- with the Dutch. They ar&a mu-eh quieter people than the- savages of the- inner hills, and diflf'er from them mate-rially in many points, especially in their llanguage, manners and customs, mode of hfe, &,&. The- aborigines of the hilfe are- a wild and untameabfe people^ and have not shewn any disposition to- amalgamate with Chinese-; at least there- are but few instances of this in the northern half of the island. The Pepowhans- are of a more peace- ful and agricultural turn of mind, and although they may have opposed the inroads erf the Chinese in earliei' times, ajnd may have exhibited a warfike spirit by ccwitesting- their rights toi the soil, in many bard-fought battles with the early Chinese colonists, their numbers at the- present date are so few, and the families are so scattered, that there is nothing left for them, to do but accept their present posi- tion. The Pepowhans are very interesting people, and much might be written about them ; their early his-frory,, as told by themselves, the way in which they have been despoiled often of their lands even in very late days, the position they hold in ForoMsa at the present day, their- superiority in many points to- the hill savages, the con- nection (though slight) between their language and that of Malays and Javanese, &c., &c. AtSoaoBay, some fifty miles down the East Coast, there are two villages, one at the northern and the other at the southern entrance, called Lam Hong and Pak Plong in Chinese^ a sort of head-quarters of Pepowhans- in the North.. At these places I have seen them (several yetirs ago) both men and women in their native dresses, and it is there that vou still hear the purest Pepowhan spoken. They [ 19S ] deserve a separate notice before it becomes too late, for they are disappearing fast before the march of civiliza- tion and are rapidly becoming absorbed by the Chi- nese element, and in a iew generations more there will be but very few true specimens left in the north, excep- ting in the most out-of-the-way corners of Chinese tei'- ritory. The Palm Island Pepowhans may already have been driven away from their homes by the French, as we heard that notice was given to the inhabitants to quit. Their ancestors must have seen many changes in and about Kelung, for the Japanese are said to have had a colony or a settlement in the north of the island ; the Spaniards, it is said, occupied Kelung a few centuries ago likewise ; and no doubt the Dutch extended their settlements as far north, for there are still mins of old forts on Palm Island which are thought to be Dutch, although they differ materially from the remains of I'ort Zealandia in the south and from the well preserved old brick fort at Tamsui. In the valleys in the neighbour- hood of Kelung, and in the valleys in the Kap-su-lan plain, there are a good number of Pepowhans to be seen. In the towns of Banca and Twatutia, and in the villages round about are also several families to be met with. The old women can speak their own language as well as Chinese, but the younger members of the present gene- ration speak Chinese only. Some twenty years ago they might have been seen living in thatched shanties made of bamboo and long grass, on ground now occupied by foreign houses in Twatutia. One of the largest pro- perties owned by foreigners at Kelung, bought from Chinese several years ago by an Englishman for a good round sum of money, was, as the Chinese title deeds shew, bartered by a Pepowhan to a Chinaman for a few pigs, goats, &c. The date of the transfer was made out to be about the year A.D. 1790, and the signature of the Pepowhan was literally a sign manual, being simply the impression of the inky tips of his fingers. Dr. G. [ 199 1 L. Mackay, of the Canadian Mission, who has erected a Boys' School called " Oxford College " and a Girls' School, both at Hubei (Tamsui), as well as several schools and chapels all over the north end of the Chinese part of Formosa, has taken a gi-eat interest of late years in the children of poor Pepowhan families, and many of them previous to the outlw-eak of hostilities at Tamsui were to be seen at the girls' school. The older women are fond of smoking, and indulge- in a good many pipes during the day. Up in the high mountains of Formosa, the women artd even young girls are invariably seen with a pipe in their mouth, or stuck in their hair. Smoking there is a universal,, and savage boys and girls com- mence at a very early aga In addition to the villages mentioned, there are a few scattered houses on Palm Island at the foot of the- hills. Some ten years ago an English pilot built a stone " look-out " composed of two small rooms about ten or twelve feet sq-uare-, one above the other, with a bit of a verandah on one side. There- used to be also a snuU wooden bungalow close to the '^' look-out," formerly occupied in the hot months by the managing engineer of the colliery and his. wife. The cli- mate of Palm Island is particularly healthy in the months of June, July, and August, and the sea bathing to be got there is probably equal to. any in the East. For- eigners wha have picked up. fever at the Colliery or at Ke- lung or Tamsui have been known to shake it off completely after a week's residence on Palm Island. The difference of temperature between that of Kelung and Palm Island is remarkable, when it is sweltering hot in that bay, there being generally a cool breeze off this little island ; in fact, in the hot summer months it is positively often cold after sunset. InvaUds from the Colliery have suffered from fever and ague for years often ; but the same individuals, if located on Palm Island during the worst months of the year, have been quite free from at- tacks. If it were not for the abundance of rain which [ 200 I falls in the neiglibourhood, Kelung would be a very desirable place of residence. As it is, Palm Island in the very hottest months, June, July, and August, is very cool, and is pleasantly situated. The island vFould be a delicious place of retreat for foreigners living in the roasting and unhealthy Banca Plain in the worst season of the year, supposing that a moderate- sized hotel or a few private bungalows were erected there. There is very little more to be said about Palm Island, but if we linger on its shore a few moments more, other objects of interest may be discovered. As you pass along the southern beach, the side looking to- wards Kelung, you will find numerous miniature har- bours, some full of rocks and the bottoms covered with fields of long seaweed, others sandy and pebbly, and the water so clear and transparent as to enable you to discern at the depth of a fathom and more every stone and shell as clearly as if they were but a few inches below water. The variety of shells to be found on Palm Island is not extensive, and most of them that are to be seen are not very curious. The names of a few of them may be given herewith, others of course are to be found, but having only a very slight knowledge of conchology, we are unable to give the names of many of the specimens collected. Cyprse, or the common Cowries, are pretty numerous, small and large spotted, striped, mapped, &c., externally. The Pectinidse family is represented by the genus Spondylus Aurantius. Haliotidse family are traced by the numerous specimens of the Haliotis tuberculata ; the bright interiors of the dead shells found on shore glisten in the sunlight and attract the eye of the collector more than any other shells. This kind, if well cooked, is good to, eat. A genus of Semiphyllidians called Siphonaria are -also very common. The family of Volutidae are to be found here in the shape of Mitra and the beautiful Oliv^. i 201 ] There are also numerous specimens of the Trochidaj, the commonest genera being Trochus Argyrostomus ; also Trochus Obeliscus. Clangulus, Rotella, and Mo- nodonta of diminutive size. Of the Turbinidse family may be found Turbo Torquatus. There are also repre- sentatives of the Siphon ostomata family, chiefly of the Murex genus; also of the thorny Wood-cock species Murex Tribulus. Numerous specimens of the Conus are to be picked up also. The presence in these waters of the Neritidae is disclosed on the addition to your collection of shells called Nerita and Natica, which are to be found in considerable quantities. There is no scarcity, either, of the Patella, true descendant of the Patellidae. A small shell called the Columbella can be found in thousands. The above short list represents only a fractional portion of the shells to be found in the Kelung waters and on the north-east coast of Formosa. The best specimens are to beobtained from fishermen, who frequent- ly catch all sorts of marine creatures in their nets. The most beautiful little shell of all is one that is sometimes to be seen in the Summer and Autumn months — quietly drifting about on the surface of the water on a very calm day. WJien seen floating about it is usually dead and tenantless. The colour is of a clear bright cobalt, and vies in purity of colour and brilliance with the blue heavens on the brightest of days. After a storm these fragile little shells — as brittle as the thinnest blown glass — are seen only in certain sequestered little coves and inlets, stranded, and in pieces. If you are lucky enough to secure an entire one or two, the difficulty is in preser- ving them, as the slightest pressure breaks them. Specimens are occasionally to be found of the Nau- tilidae. Those we speak of are about two inches in ex- treme length, and the external appearance of the shell resembles in shape the Nautilus PompiUns. The speci- mens in oiu' possession are very small, and the animals [ 202 J found were dead, but it shews that this species of Ce- phalopoda exists hereabouts. Whilst on Cephalopoda we may mention that the northern coast of Formosa, and the bay of Kelung especially, is usually strewn after a storm with pieces of Cuttle-bone. The Echinidse family is also represented here by numerous Sea Urchins. On Palm Island or Bush Island any one with a conchological turn of mind of the greenest and most un- cultivated kind can enjoy himself for hours in searching about for specimens of all k nds of marine wonders. You can wade about barefooted, and no one will object, excepting perhaps certain crustacean animals lying under the shady cover of some projecting rocks, and upon whom you might accidentally tread. It is just possible that your little toe might be seized by his cheliform claws, which would not be pleasant. To avoid such a contretem.ps there is nothing like a thick pair of socks encased in an old pair of canvas shoes. In the cool of the afternoon just before sunset you can, if you will, bathe in the sea (or at any other time of the day for that matter), undisturbed by the sight of any human being. You can rush in over a sandy shingly beach or plunge in from the tops of rocks into the clearest, briniest water in the world : you can turn somersault like a porpoise, and if so be your wish to scamper about the beach in a state of nudity, imagining yourself a savage for the nonce, you can do so at pleasure ; neither the bright heavens above nor the friendly hills and rocks around would be shocked thereat. .As for wading and shell- ing, you can find enjoyment for hours and days together along the flat but split sandstone formation on and be- tween Bush Island and Palm Island, nimmaging about in all sorts of fairy little inlets and ])oking your nose into innumerable tidal creeks and crevices, where shells are procurable and where you can observe for yourself the first germs of coral life. These specimens of infant coral and of littoral and sub-littoral zoophites of various colours [ 203 ] and shapes are very interesting to behold. Specimens of Acanthrastrsea grandis, Pontes clavaria, Madrepora, &c., &c., can be discovered in all sorts of curious Mttle corners, w^hile sea anemones or annual flowers of delicate hues, an occasional piece of sponge, and other creatures of the polypi order are also to be found. The first germ of coral Ufe is to be seen attached either to a rock or shell, no larger in size than a pin's head ; thousands are clustered together in places, look- ing as white as snow below water, but on detaching them or exposing them to the air they change to a brown slimy substance, under which is a sort of gritty stony nucleus, of the substance of hard lime. I am touch- ing on a subject that I know but little of, but the charm of observation is sufficient for me when on a visit to Palm Island. It is not waste of time wandering about this out-of-the-world place; you are shaking off' your mind the cobwebs of business, and giving your brain, your lungs, and every part of your body, especially your eyes, a holiday. Jumping off the every-day track and out of the groove into which every one settles down who is engaged in business, is absolutely necessary occasion- ally for one's health's sake. Here the mind and body can be regaled as well as rested, though no doubt a few hours' visit would satisfy most people. Until suitable accommodation is to be got there, it will remain a place to visit simply. ]\ot far from the Pilot's Look-out not very many years ago a man was ploughing a field composed of loose soil,composedforthe most part of sand, shell, coral, pumice stone, &c., when suddenly the ground gave way, disclos- ing beneath an empty apartment surrounded by stone walls. The existence of this particular underground building was apparently unknown to the present genera- tion, and of course some interest was attached to the discovery. The walls are made of sandstone and may possiblj' have been part of a fort built by Chinese, though r 204 ] from the appearance of the masonry one is inclined to think that the structure has a foreign history. Not far off are several similar remains of old walls (some of stone, some of concrete) jutting in some places right into small bays, and running down to the water's edge. When examining these and other Palm Island wonders, you cannot but notice the quantity of pumice stone that has been washed into the small tidal creeks on the south or Kelung side of the island. There are thousands of pieces to be found just above water mark, of a greyish colour for the most part, but you find also many pieces of a dark reddish colour and occasionally you see floating about pieces of black pumice, resembling coal or shale. Pumice can be found on both sides of the bay of Kelung as well, and after heavy storms and especially after a typhoon large quantities ai e tossed on shore. The presence of pumice stone in such quanti- ties in this particular neighbourhood would lead to the inference that a submarine crater existed not far from the entrance of the bay, and possibly the axis thereof may pass through submarine coal seams, and during eruptions these specimens of pumice stone and coal pumice may have been ejected. The islands to the north of Kelung, " Craig " and " Agincourt," as well as Kelung island, are evidently of volcanic origin. 1 have pieces of rock found above the level of the sea chipped off the exposed part of these islands, which resemble somewhat pieces of wood that have been eaten by white ants, others have a cinderlike appearance ; all look as if they had been under the action of intense heat. In the 1867 earthquake, when the water left the harbour of Kelung, leaving it dry and returning again in a few minutes — not seconds as stated by Mr. Hancock in his Customs Report — two Englishmen of very reliable character who were living in a Chinese house (the haunted house) referred to as the first abode of foreigners in Kelung, observed out at sea the other side of Bush [ 205 ] Island a column of water and steam rising from the sea to a considerable height. What appeared to them like steam may have been spray. Can it be possible that this column of water and spray or steam was raised into the air by the submarine forces, which were exposed to view on the retreating of the sea and perhaps the lowering of the level thereof? The tide in Kelung only rises three feet at most at any time, and during the earthquake referred to the extra rise above high water mark was not more than five feet. The lower portion of an old junk which was embedded in the shallow water of the bay just opposite the " haunted house " was carried away towards the town, and the timbers were found in different directions scattered all about the southern end of the bay. There were no European ships in port, and when I visited Kelung on the follow- ing day the water had entered the house and washed across the floor certainly, but that was all. A coUec- tiod of timber situated outside the door and close to the water's edge had not been disturbed. When the sea left the harbour many men living in the villages near the town and along the eastern side of the bay rushed out into the bay to collect fish. There was time even to do that, though some were caught by the wave on its return and were drowned. At the time of this great earthquake I was at Banca, having only the previous day arrived from the savage coimtry where a tremor of the earth was distinctly felt there. The earthquake in question was very severe at Banca and caused the whole population to clear out of their houses. I went out into the main street, and such was the crowd there that I could only move with it, not independently. I finally arrived at the edge of the river and distinctly noticed the water of the river moving as if it were boiling. There was a sort of bubbling appearance at the surface, and mud and all sorts of rubbish from the bottom seem- ed to be rising to the top of the water. The junks [ 206 J anchored close together actually rattled against each other. Shock after shock continued during the day, but there was very little damage done excepting to mud houses in the suburbs of the town. A.11 sorts of stories soon became matters of fact in the opinion of the townspeople. A large opening had been made in Banca plain ; a few weeks afterwards I tried to find this opening but no one could guide me to the place ; there were cracks here and there no doubt, but similar cracks in the soil appear after long droughts. Pa-cheua, a well known village near Ferry hill, but on the opposite side of the Kelung rapids, at which place I have often stayed, when exploring the neighbourhood of the sulphur springs, was said to have been destroyed. I made a point of visiting this place, and found that not a house had been destroyed. On visiting Kelung just after the earthquake, the damage to our Chinese house, which was only about four to five feet above the level of high water mark, was simply nil, the water having risen above the flooring only. The damage done to Kelung City was ridiculously small, and on making a call at Kimpaoli within a few days after the earthquake, I slept in the house which I had always slept in before and found it and the village uninjured. When exploring the northern end of the island between Tamsui and Kelung, Kimpaoli is the only decent place to put up at on the sea coast. Earthquakes in 1865, '66, '67, and '68 were extremely frequent, renderiiig it often necessary to sleep out of doors for nights together. I recollect after one big earthquake at Hubei the Europeans on the spot hauled from under the ruins of houses situated on the hill behind the Hubei market place 17 bodies, many of whom were alive when discovered, several dying after their release from the ruins. Chinese on such occasions would not lend a helping hand. The history of earthquakes in North Formosa might be lengthened out considerably ; we re- [ ^07 J fer to them here more at length to shew that Chinese versions of earthquakes are about as true as the numer- ous reports that are now and have been flying about during the past six months about the French doings at Kelung and Wan Wan. To prove that earthquakes have not been so bad as Chinese make out, there are two foreign godowns still standing in Tamsui and Piatow which were built about 1862 and 1863; they are made of stone and have tiled roofs, the walls have been cracked and the tiles have been " scrunched " at times ; the inner mud Myalls have been levelled on one occasion ; but the buil- dings externally are almost as good as they were when first built. At Twatutia the two-storied houses there have stood no end of shocks, during the past 15 or 16 years. Much might be written about the islands around Kelung, but space will not permit. People live on the sea, fishermen by trade of course, a quiet, friendly dis- posed people. The islands are the homes of millions of birds„ which lay millions and millions of eggs, a dull whitish egg with blackish specks on them as far as 1 recollect. They are shaped like a fowl's egg, though of course not so large. They are very good to eat either raw or cooked. The difficulty of visiting these islands excepting in very calm weather is in the landing and knowing where to land, as the surf is very dangerous to go through if there is the least bit of sea on. In the north-east monsoon you are liable to be detained for days until the blow is over. In the neighbourhood of Agin- court Island in the month of August, 1883, the Amer- ican barque Spartan, on her way to Honolulu, found herself becalmed A boat was lowered and four of her crew (or rather two officers and two sailors, one of the officers being the captain's son) made for the island in a perfect calm. The boat was last seen nearing the island. As there are strong currents in these parts the Captain of the Spartan found his vessel drifting rapidly, a signal was hoisted for the boat to return, but to this day [ 208 J neither the boat nor the men in her have been heard of. They were last seen close inshore making towards a grotto-like cave; there vras no w^ind, it was perfectly calm. It is just possible that the boat struck a rock and sank and the men were drowned. They were never seen on the island by the natives. It is a sad story to relate ; the mystery, we fear, will never be cleared up. Every endeavour was made to find the missing boat ; several visits to the island and to the other islands were made, but nothing was ever heard of their true fate. The tides and currents in these parts are strong and dangerous in calm weather ; we should thmk sailing vessels if becalmed here would find themselves taken possession of. We must return, however, to the harbour of Kelung, leaving many things of interest to be des- cribed perhaps at some future time ; the history of the coal trade would of itself be far too lengthy to include it in this topographical sketch. On reading through this hurried narrative we observe an error in locating Wan Wan on the Kelung side of the rapids : it is really on the opposite bank. We might mention, in conclusion, rather a curious fish, that is said to be found in the harbour. On the occasion of making a passage from Tamsui to Kelung in a schooner, and after the anchor was let go and indulging in a good dinner, I turned into ray cabin, and just as I was preparing to sleep, I heard a curious sound close to my head. It was not loud but was very regular. The sound came from something in the water and it puzzled me not a little as to what it could be. Hearing it through the side of the ship, must have deadened the sound considerably, but there was a distinct faint drumlike soimd, which went on for a long time. There are such things as musical fish ; could this have been one ? The captain of the schooner said he had frequently heard the same sound in Kelung harbour, but in no other port. His firm belief as well ^s my own ^verc that it was a musical fish with excellent [ ^no J ideas of time, perhaps ; but, however sweet the time was, it wanted variety in cadence. Gold has been found in i^'ormosa. The savages of the North have a word for it and can distinguish the difference between brass bangles and gold rings. The place it is to be found in is known to an old foreign ex- plorer. Some ten years ago something very like gold in appearance was found close to Kelung, but it turned out to be iron pyrites. The island we know to be rich in minerals, such as iron and plumbago in the northern and central hills, and we unclcrstand it produces silver in the southern end. The hills between Tamsiii and Kelung contain no end of sulphur, and the whole of the north-eastern end may be said to be full of coal tields, disjointed somewhat by the action of earthquakes and iipheavais, and in many places all the more exposed and get-at-able on that account. On the east coast near Soao Bay, there are hills full of excellent slate, and in the neighbourhood of Mount Sylvia there are exten- sive cisterns of petroleum. If the country were systema- tically explored by geologists or mining experts the hilly country might be found to be of much more value than it is really known to be. So long, however, as the island belongs to China, the Government will reserve to itself all the treasures of the earth that may be brought to light. Coals were found at Kelung previous to the opening of the port even, and a foreign demand arose. For many years supplies were obtainable from native miners in quite sufficient quantities to satisfy the then demand. The foreign mode of mining was afterwards inaugurated by the Government, and from the very first commencement the mandarins in charge thereof gave out that this Government concern would in no way interfere with private mining; in fact that no at- tempt at monopofising the trade in coal was intended. Not many years afterwards the Colliery officials attempted to close up the native mines, and if it had not been for [ 210 ] the representations of foreigners the trade in coal would have been virtually monopolised by them. Just pre- vious to the bonibardment of Kelung the mandarins had raised the price so high that no one on the spot could buy from them. At the same time they were selling their coal stocks to Shanghai merchants at a less price than that asked in Kelung. Several attempts at mono- polising cargo boats and coal boats have been made, all with the view of securing the trade to themselves and shutting out every one else. Petroleum was discovered twenty years ago by a foreigner in savage territoi-y but separated by a river only from Chinese territory. They tacitly allowed the foreigner to own for several years the wells; a Chinese headman of the district who had leased his right to the foreigner was caught and beheaded, and it was made so hot for every one that the place had to be evacuated. So it will be with everything so long as the Chinese remain masters of Formosa. Whether the Trench would be better masters and give more rights to foreigners than we now possess is not so certain. As we write, news has come to hand that the blockade of Formosa has been raised, and that Formosa is to remain a portion of the Chinese Empire. Kelung. the subject of this sketch, will, we suppose, be given up again to the Chinese. We cannot expect much good to arise from the French invasion, but on the contrary a bitter fe?,ling of resentment on the part of the people against foreigners may result ; but let us hope that the officials may be able to read the lesson lately given them, not in a spirit of revenge towards English traders here, but simply as a natural consequence of a dispute between the French and their own nation. The native officials have shewn much good sense throughout this unfortunate little war in respecting the position of neutrals and in keeping both the soldiery and people in order, and there is no doubt that power lies in their hands to control events in times of peace. [ ^11 J Kelung, as a place of trade and residence, has been designated as " a one horse sort of place," and it will remain so, unless native mining is allowed. To shut the native mines means taking away the means of sub- sistence from the bulk of the inhabitants and. keeping them in a state of abject poverty. The days of monopolies are passed, and we hope that the Government Colliery, if started again, will be conducted on more liberal principles. In the hantis of an enlightened Government, which would be above farming the coal trade out as a sort of Government com- pany, the future of Kelung and its trade would appear very bright. By reducing the amount of tonnage dues steamers on their way to and from Japan might make it a place of call. Steamers on their way to America with teas might take part cargoes, in the same way that they do in Amoy. What is first wanted is a telegraphic wire across the Channel and from the date of its com- pletion both Tamsui and Kelung Avould rise in im- portance. Tamsui is commercially a place of some im- portance already ; with encouragement and no monopoly, Kelung might soon become a great place of trade. [ 212 EXTRACTS FROM OLD NOTES ON THE CAMPHOR DISTRICTS IN NORTH FORMOSA. I am induced to publish these old notes, as now that railways and steam saw mills are being introduced into the island, we are likely to witness very soon rapid and great changes, which, in the space of a few years, may obliterate all traces of the border country now existing, and which, during the past twenty-five years or so, has been opened out and extended, but compara- tively very slowly. In some directions, where the nature of the country has encouraged extension or where extra energy on the part of the Hakka colonists has been dis- played, the aborigines have lost large slices of territory, but in many places the belt of borderland which sweeps round the mountains occupied by savages in the North, say, from Sauo (Su-6h) Bay on the East coast to the town of Banca on the Tamsui river, and from Banca down to below the Petroleum Wells, East of Ovplan on the western coast, the width of the borderland has not been enlarged more than a few miles during the past twenty vears. The Camphor tree {Laurus campkora) is to be found growing on the central and southern mountain ranges, but the principal supplies have been extracted from trees growing to the North of the 24th parallel of N. latitude. It must have often puzzled many people to know where Camphor came from, and how it was produced, and not unnaturally so, for the tree from which the substance is extracted does not grow to any extent in many parts of the world, and the article itself is not one of everyday use. Formerly it was to be found' growing on the mainland of China, and here and thei'e trees are [ 213 ] to be met with still in the Fokien province. In Japan also the trees are numerous enough to allow of the pro- duction of a good deal of crude Camphor, which finds a ready sale in Hongkong and fetches a slightly higher price than Formosa Camphor, owing to the greater care taken in the preparation and the greater purity of the article generally. Chinese mix a substance called Tin jia chili, a gummy extract from bamboo — to add to its weight. Water is also added for the same purpose. In Java and Sumatra, as well as in Borneo, the Camphor ti'ee grows, but in no part of the world does it flourish so luxuriantly as in the island of Formosa. Not twenty-five miles from the entrance of the Tamsui river, in a southerly direction, are innumerable ranges of mountains covered from top to bottom with primeval forests, inhabited by savages as wild, perhaps, as any in the world, and it is in these mountain forests that the Camphor tree luxuriates, and is to be seen in its glory. About twenty-four years ago Camphor trees grew on the lower ranges of hills, south of Eanca, and to the East of San Ko Yeng and To Ko Ham, all of which are now partially cleared of trees and undergrowth, and are covered with patches of sweet potatoes, extensive indigo and sugar plantations, and in suitable spots tea plantations, and many other useful plants such as hemp, tobacco, and rape, groundnuts, and the great staple rice, of course, planted and reared by the Chinese settlers, who have in the- interim driven into the loftier mountains- in rear the former aboriginal owners. In the northern portioii of the island, and all along- the western borderland right down to below Mount Morrison, the Chinese laml grabbers are constantly at work, and the aborigines are- being driven, often by force, from their hunting grounds ; and sometimes by strategy or rather treachery on the part of the invaders they lose not only their lands, but their lives. The border countiy separaticig the wild man from the- [ 214 ] Chinese inhabitants of the western anrl northei'n plains is pretty well defined — though ever changing — for wherever the hillsides have been cleared of forest and jungles, and wherever patches of potato fields and other signs of cultivation are visible, there the hardy Chinese pioneer is to be found, felling trees, clearing the land, and turning up new soil, never perhaps before turned by the hand of man. And wherever the valleys and plains are covered with long grass and wild entangling undergrowth, and the mountain sid(!S retain their ancient covering of forest trees* intermixed with infinite varieties of parasitical plants, and huge cieepers at- taining otten the thickness of a man's thigh, stretching along from tree to tree and forming elevated roads, much used by monkeys — whose chattering and screeching are most excruciating — there, in such a dense mass of nature's handiwork, is the home of the noble savage ! From the huge creepers alluded to, so cruel in their embrace as to grow into the vitals of the supporting trees, as well as from the branches of trees, hang sus- pended hundreds of orchidaceous epiphytes, an after- noon's raid amongst which would make the fortune of any London florist. And amongst the thick endogenous vegetation below, running along about a foot or two above the ground, are specimens of rattans of all ages and thicknesses ; almost every stride you take through the thick jungle and forest, you meet barriers of rattans, ferns, creepers, and cryptogamous plants without number. Where roads cease and watercourses and Indian trails are the only paths, there savages are sure not to be far off. It is on the partially cleared borders, on the slopes of the forest clad moimtains, that the savages and Chinese pioneers meet, sometimes on friendly terras, but ever and anon as enemies to the death. It is there also • Comprising numerous raluable species of timber. Some twenty years ago a col- lection made by myself "was presented by Mr. Atwell Coxon to the Hongkong City Hall Museum. [ ^13 ] that Campborinitscrudestateis manufactured ; and wliou it is considered that it takes a man or two with several fires going to make only a picul or so at most of camphor in a month, which at the border markets like those of San Ko Yeng, To Ko Ham, and Kim Chai-an fetched in the early days of the trade from §(5 to §8 per picul only, it appears extraordinary that any one should take to such a life, especially as. at certain sefisons of the year Chinese heads are in special. request, and however friendly the squatters may be withtlie neighbouring savage tribe, skull hunters belonging to other tribes living at a distance are very liable to visit the new clearings with a view to adding to their collections. Most of the Chinese borderers in the Camphor dis- tricts are Hakkas, descendants of men who were drafted up here many years ago by the Canton authorities. Many of the Hakka clansmen in the South of China had on occasions proved themselves to be a turbulent and dangerous body of citizens, and several military expedi- tions (one within our recollection) have been despatched from Canton to quell their rebellious and independent spirit. Even in Formosa, when the border squatters become numerous enough and sufficiently flourishing to be drawn Avithin the magic circle of civilization, many of them prefer a life of outlawry on the extreme borders to submitting to ^Mandarin rule and exactions, which in- variably follow the establishment of newly formed well- to-do settlements hitherto considered outside the pale of official jurisdiction. The Canton Authorities in the south of the Empire made banishment to Formosa the lot of many of the Hakkas, and no doubt in later years the great attractions of Tai-wan, the " terraced land " induced others from the Hakka districts to emigrate to this country. Junk loads used to arrive here in former years during the south-west monsoon, and on landing the colonists were despatched up country, under the leadership of headmen, [ 31G ] chosen by themselves, nie hills were pointed ont to them, and off they marched in search of a suitable locality. A large-sized rudely constructed shanty, com- posed of a few corner posts of timber, bamboo, and rat- tan framework, thatched with long grass and roof of same, would soon be run up, and later on smaller shanties would spring up, forming the nucleus of a village. IS'ot many years would elapse before the wood and bamboo .framework would be replaced by stone or mud biicks and the thatch by tiled roofs. A rendezvous in tlie shape of a two storeyed house, of a square towerlikc ap- pearance, is sometimes erected, to which in the event of sudden attacks being made by savages the womeu, chil- dren, and old men can retire. In more peaceful times the building is used as a granary. In the course of a few years the country around begins to assume a civilised aspect. Beyond the lines of villages of this description, fresh attacks on the forest lands are being made either by the sons of settlers or by new arrivals. Squatters' thatched shanties are to be seen perched on the moun- tain sides in various directions, advancing as it were in skirmishing order. In the neighbourhood of the new outposts is often erected a small fortified shanty, with a stockade paling round it. These places are called by Fokien settlers Chin Kill; they are less substantial than the stone two-storeyed rendezvous previously referred to. Here towards evening the pioneers congregate, and when troubles arise combine for mutual protection . Dur- ing the night, in such quarters there is not much sleep to be got. When the savages are on the war path a good deal of powder is wasted, and shots are fired at in- tervals through the night to show that the inmates are awake and quite prepared for an attack. The life in a stockade — whether of stone or of the shanty type — is not a pleasant one, especially in the hot weather and at nights. Let alone the heat, either the mosquitoes worry your life out or the smoke from the mosquito fire almost [ 217 ] suffocates you. Bundles of a dried furzy sort of shrub are lighted, which burns slowly throughout the night, emitting dense fumes of smoke, which, if it does not asphyxiate the mosquitoes, certainly drives them iato the open. To make matters worse the " cooeying " of savages in the woods, the yelping of pariah dogs, and a constant feeling that you are being or will be suffocated shortly, does not assist you to lind repose. In the mor- ning you get up feeUng more like a baked owl than any- thing else, and with smarting eyes you hail the morn with delight. Some friendly border tribes are not disinclined to allow squatting on new territory for a consideration, and a verbal agreement is often entered into, " signed, sealed, and delivered " over the contents of a jar or two of samshu, called by the aborigines Poon-niek Kit Tsiah,, literally meaning "firewater." The terms are usually something of this kind : — That in consideration of the Chinese providing them at certain periods of the year with a few necessaries such as rice, salt, and a few domesticated pigs, a quantity of Chinese gunpowder and perhaps a matchlock, etc., etc., with a jar or two of samshu thrown in, permission is granted to squat within certain limits — to fell timber, make charcoal and cam- phor — and to kill deer and other game in the immediate vicinity. So long as the terms of the treaty are faithfully carried out, all goes on well, but the Chinese, wliether Hakkas or pioneers from the Fokien province, very soon begin to look down on the wild men and treat the "friendlies" as inferiors. As they progress they establish them.sclves firmly, denuding the land of trees and cover of all kinds, and by this means they possess themselves of the most powerful defensive weapon placed by nature in the hands of the aborigines, who are specially averse to fighting in the open. Bush fighting is essentially the mode of warfare adopted, and the nature of the L 218 ] country is undoubtedly in favour of it. In war all is considered fair, and this theory is carried out in prac- tice to a nicety by the aboriginal hil] men. A savage bent on stalking a settler, goes on all fours through the jungle until he arrives at the very fringe of the forest ; he then suddenly rises and lets drive an arrow at the unsuspecting Chinaman. If the arrow wounds but slightly, he darts away back into the thickest part of the jungle ; if, however, he wounds his man seriously, he rushes out of the cover and finishes the business with his long knife, and severing the head from the body hastens to a safe retreat. The head is boiled, and if the savage has killed the man out of revenge, it is just possible that he might indulge in the luxury of " stewed brains," which are said to be better even than " boiled baby." The skull is put in a skull bag and is hung up in the ancestral hall as trophy, and the tail of the celestial is often fixed in the end of the scabbard of the trusty shoi't sword, worn by every savage. The troubles between borderers and savages may be said to be in some districts almost of daily occurence. Chinese settlers hardly ever for any length of the time fidhere strictly to the terms of the contract, and pig and rice and jar of samshu are not always forthcoming at the appointed time. Disputes arise between individuals, a savage life is perhaps taken in an nugry brawl, or may be abordererloseshis head ; reprisals are the consequence, and a miserable state of affairs ensues. The Chinese ban;] together and make a dash through the forest towards an Indian village, and lives are lost on both sides, and on a favourable occasion the savages, in return, pounce down on border shanties and, literally "bagging" a few heads, disappear temporarily in the densest part of the forest, vi'here there is no following at fill, with any chance of success. Prisoners are not always killed, especially those of the female sex, but are often spared and held as hostages, and eventually, after a nuuiber cf [ -iiy J lives have been sacrificed on both sides, matters are sometimes patched up, but only to break out again after some additional act of treachery or breach of contract on the part of the pioneers is perpetrated. Frequently border disputes and disputes betvpeen two savage tribes last for years, or until the aborigines are so thinned and weakened that they are obHged to fall back and to abandon certain territory to the invader. Although the Chinese lose more lives than the aborigines, success in the long run invariably attends their arms, for almost every border Celestial has a matchlock and plenty of amunition, whereas few tribes can muster more than 10 per cent, of matchlock men, the rest being armed with bows and arrows. Amongst the Haklva border men, who live a backwoodsman's sort of life, are many good shots, but it is a difficult matter to get sight of the savages although the savagescan see them, 'ihe aborigines have the advantages of the cover and knowledge of the country, and fighting them in the forest is almost like fighting an unseen foe. The borderers, whobecomemore grasping as they advance, are often checked by the study demeanour of the owners of the soil. When they are opposed for any length of time various stratagems are resorted to. One is to be fire the forest and jungle at several points at once, waiting, however, for a droughty season and a' favourable wind to assist in spreading tiie flames. In this way sometimes the whole side of a mountain is cleared of everything, forest trees of all sizes, some of them .being of enormous height and girth. Over 70 specimens of -wood growing in the Northern forests have been collected, many of them representing most valuable timber. 1 he fire destrovs everything, trees, jungle, parasitical creepers, and all kinds of orchidaceous e])iphyt6s. Savages have to clear out of their rattan wickerwork shanties, skull bags and all; the N(ja Sat, or house raised on poles, composing the granary of the village, has to be emptied of its contents of fruits, roots, salted flesh, [ 220 ] and black husked rice. The men shoulder their weapons, but will not help to carry the household gear; old and young squaws with nets over their shoulder (suspended by a skin strap round their foreheads) crammed full of all kinds of necessaries (and amongst them perhaps the latest born, unconscious of all that is passing) may be seen hurrying along, bending their heads forward, and stoop- ing under the heavy burden they must carry, or discard. Round about savage villages the wood and under- growth are cleared for some distance, but the retreating body of men and women, leaving their abodes, dart rapidly into the recesses of the forest and in Indian file pass along well known trails, just broad enough to admit one man, branches of trees and other obstacles having previously been cleared by every one using the trail. There are here and there open glades, which are taken advantage of, but where the mountain side has to be scaled, the usual " road " is up a watercourse, along the stony bed of which the savages force their way, cutting and slashing the ovei'hanging obstacles as they step from one stone to another. Wild animals, finding thecover too hot tobe pleasant, crash through the jungle helter skelter. Some of them have beautifully marked bodies of dark yellowish red and fawn colour. Many are of the panther size and appear- ance, measuring from five to seven feet from nose to tip of tail, and between two and three feet high. These animals are easily shot ; they usually stand and look at human beings approaching for a second or two, then slowly move away. Enormous wild cats are to be met with, which are fierce and un tameable, but tigers are unknown. Amongst these and other animals awakened out of their slumbers may be seen the small brown bear jogging lazily along, and tribes of wild hogs, with their numerous progeny, headed by large tusked, fierce, grunting boars, rushing headlong through the under- growth, and heading for the nearest long-grass covered r ''21 1 plain, where for miles and miles they can travel in safety and at a rapid pace withal. When crossing these grassy plains (all waiting the advent of pigtailed pioneers) when the sun is at his height not a single ray pierces through the depth of cover. The heat, however, is almost stiffling. On the slope of the mountain, at the first crackling sound of the burniag vegetation the princely stag * raises his antlered head, squeaks, then paws the ground with impatience, and sniffing the smoky atmosphere bolts across the unfrequented glade and disappears from view. Herds of what appear like fallow deer in their shape and movements — really the spotted axis maculata — have long ago passed over the crest of the hill, or have found their way in timid haste through well known ti^acks to pleasant watering rendez- vous. Skipping and frisking along, springing and jumping over almost impenetrable obstacles, may also be seen many smaller specimens of red or brown deer, and amongst them the nimble little barking deer. Higher up the mountain side are moving away from danger animals of the chamois species — having two straight annular scabrous horns about, 15 inches long ; and from the ferny banks of ferny ^streams, in the neigh- bourhood of cascades and deep fish pools, disturbed in their morning meals, plunge headlong into the water male and female otters of a ravenous but wasteful dis- position. Numerous kinds of pole-cats, fulimarts, and creatures of the weasel kind — also snakes, harmless and poisonous — all have to move on or succumb to the fiery element. Hundreds of scared monkeys hurry along with their young ones jabbering and screeching, and the scaly pangolin skims slowly over the ground on his strong horny toes and will no doubt burrow himself a shelter from the fiery storm in his rear. From the hollow trunks of blasted trees the owl has to leave his spoil un- eaten and take to flight with other night foragers — * The Sta^s are a species of big Med or Browu Deer. [ 22.2 J huge bats with wings nearly two feet long and immense specimens of flying foxes. Thousands of bright blue and scarlet coloured birds of diminutive size, no larger than humming birds, leave the doomed forest with lightning speed. The once common Swinhoe pheasant, of uxorious and retiring habits, might be observed amongst the mis- cellaneous flocks of birds, hurrying away from the ap- proaching smoke and fire. Some fifteen years ago a fire extending over more than one mountain could be seen from the Hanca Plain burning for over a week, rather a pretty sight at night time. The result of such large conflagrations is that vast quantities of most valuable timber are destroyed, and the country so devastated becomes more than ever a de- bateable ground. The savages, driven away from their homes and hunting grounds, vow vengeance on the men with tails, and war to the knife often lasts for years. The Hakkas and other colonists, not being sufficiently numer- ous on the borders, are unable to extend themselves over the newly acquired territory, consequently it lapses at once into a land of desolation, and becomes a battle ground on which the questions of the ownership and the survival of the fittest have finally to be decided. If Camphor or timber are required from this dis- trict as of yore, new forests further inland must be tapped, and then it is found that there are no roads over the hills lately cleared, and on that account chiefly the trade in both articles is often stopped indefinitely. Until roads are made into the inner border country, leading up to the forest clad mountains, there will ahvays be a difficulty about the transport of heavy timber to the Chinese markets of the northern and western plains. Other stratagems of even a worse kind than firing the forests are resorted to, and in making reference to one nioi'e of them I do so simply to show to what lengths certain Chinese borderers of the worst chi-s go to attain their ends. At one or two places on the cast coast, and r 223 L on the western borders also to my knowledge, occurrences such as I am about to relate have been known to take place, though they are by no means common. The Chinese and aborigines have disputes, the latter are makingit hot for the former, and the former in consequence are continually harassing the savages. To get rid of the most obnoxious of the aborigines, the wily Hakkas feign fierce friendship, invite their foes to meet them at a horder Ckin-hii, where barter transactions are often con- ducted and palavers are usually held. Backets of pearl white boiled rice, a sucking pig or two, cooked to a turn, are produced, both much esteemed by the hungry savages, who at certain seasons of the year have to go on short commons, and prefer a domes- ticated porker to all the wild hogs' flesh and veoison they are accustomed to live upon. The men sit in a circle on their haunches, the rice and pigs being placed in the centre. A big jar of samshu is emptied into a bucket, and water added, and from it the men help them- selves with a gourd, or Chinese basin, if there is one handy. They eat as if they had never tasted food for days, literally gorging themselves until their stomachs become quite distended. They have nothing but their knives to eat with excepting their hands, and with these they load their mouths full of rice and pork, untd they can hold no more. The bowl of firewater passes round freely. A good deal of drinking lip to lip takes place. Two Uicn sitting next to each other, feeling very jolly and friendly disposed, suddenly put each an arm round the back of the other and with their other hand seize the basin of samshu, and raise it to their lips, the. cheeks of both men and their mouths being close enough together to allow the fire water to pass down both of their greasy gullets at the same time. Whilst swallow- ing the liquid they pat each other on the back and look and feel unutterably friendly. The cup passes round [ ^24 J freely and the Hrewater takes effect, as it always does with theiu before they are satisfied. Entering into descriptions of this kind rather tres- passes on a paper in hand styled " A Glimpse at the Manners and Customs of the Hill Tribes of Formosa " — .^0 that I will merely add that drinking lip to lip means, if you are a guest of the savages, that you are from that moment a friend of the tribe, and as such nncier then- protection. If amongst friends and they are the guests, it means that all who go through the ceremony with them are on the most fiiendly footing possible. Whilst this convivial ceremony is going on the heathen borderers are plotting in their heart of hearts the destruction of their half drunken guests, many of whom are to be seen rolling about on the grass outside in a most uneasy way, groaning and grunting like gorged pigs. Others of a more mercurial temperament break out into a favourite song of a most monotonously dis- cordant character, and one or two young warriors with harder heads than the others indulge in a wild sort of fling peculiarly their own, capering about, brandishing their knives, their long hair floating in the breeze, and giving emphasis to the song with occasional whoops and " Koois," make-beHeve that their fighting instinct is strong within them. Then follow weary hours of smok- ing and talking and singing. The wily, sober, borderer now commences business, refers to matters in dispute, and perhaps pushes certain demands previously objected to by the savages. They are perhaps too boldly advanced, angry words pass, threats are made and scorned, the feast culminates in a row, and several of the savages are wounded and a few killed. Daylight is just appearing, and the savages, hard pressed, retreat towards the jungle, leaving several of their friends behind. The Chinese do not come off altogether scot free . , several \\ill carry the mark of the trusty La Lao (savage short sword) to their [ 235 ] graves, and one or two before the sun sets once more u ill liave closed their eyes in death. The unequal battle still goes on ; savages with only their knives, the border- ers with matchlocks, and before the unlucky wild men can reach the friendly jungle a few more have dropped to the matchlock men and have bitten the earth. A few, however, escape to tell the tale. At once all the warriors and hunting men of the tribe are called in, and mingling their sorrowful wailings with threats of vengeance, a blood feud is created, and the borderers are made before many " sun go downs " (meaning "days") to bitterlv rue the evil day on which they broke the laws of hospi- tality and friendship. There may have been faults on both sides — who can decide such knotty points of righc and wrong which are constantly cropping up in this de- batable land away from, all checks in the shape of laws of any kind beyond the one perhaps of " Right is Might." Round about the settlers' outposts and clearings, savage head-hunting skirmishers are thrown out. Young boys wishing to win their spurs — which in other words means " the right to court a maiden fair, or even of dusky hue " — make new bows and sharpen their arrow heads and practise at objects as they proceed towards the edge of the forest, and older men in possession of matchlocks called j9«/< tiis prepare dry bark, port fires, prick the vent hole leading into the powder pan, and fill their ammunition bags with curious projectiles, and take up positions suitable for pot-shotting the tailed invader. The settlers find it necessary to erect high scaf- foldings in commanding positions, on the- top of which a small thatched " look out " is perched, and frora these elevated positions they watch the movements of aborigines from morn till night, for weeks and months, and tailed heads are missing from the bodies of many a hardy pioneer. In such times all the Chinese go about armed, and you may see men working on the clearings, cul- tivating patches of ground with a guard of their friends [ 226 ] close at hand on the watch — with matchlock in hand and hollow wickerwork bracelet on the wrist containing the port fire, all alight, ready to be fixed in the hammer and on the pull of the trigger to drop into the priming pan. Long finger shaped slugs are resting heavily on the powder and there is no matter of doubt in the minds of these land grabbers as to their destination. The subject of border life might be lengthened out, but it is time now to leave these scenes of strife and cruelty, so w-e wiU ask the reader to enter with us a large sized shanty, situated on the slope of a mountain lately cleared of every thing but the trunks and roots of trees, whose stunted and grotesque shapes are standing witnesses of the destructive power that has been levelled against them. As you proceed you notice shanties of various sizes ; they are not homes or family residences, they are workshops for camphor makers, timber cutters, and charcoal burners, and are inhabited in numerous instances by men who are the very scum of the towns and villages of North Pormosa. The extreme border is an asylum for those who have escaped from the clutches of mandarindom, men who have not found the daily rounds of a village or town life compatible with their notions of fredom and elasticity of action. Such men fleeing perhaps for safety to the hills, find themselves in danger of starvation, in danger of being shot by head-hunters, and yet they prefer life in the woods to mandarin rule. Bringing their imscrupulous talents and dare devil propensitities into play, they find little trouble in overcoming the difiiculties in which they first find themselves. There are fish in the streams, and the haunts of deer can be visited with ease. Men of this description differ in many points from the ordinary pioneer, whose aim in life is to grab a considerable piece of land, to cultivate the same, to marry and to have a family, &c. The latter are agricultural in their tastes, though many have within them the love of sport, others, L 227 J are good at haggling and bartering, buying and selling, and all have sufficient spirit and pluck to turn out and fight when attacked. The men who chiefly go in for camphor making are as a rule miserable specimens, they seem to be a degraded set, and some descend beneath the level of the worst specimens of savages. With all this they are m-en " without fear," and dare to carry their lives in their hands daily. They Wear the savage Lit kits, 01 coat, smoke savage pipes, and in course of time the only difference betvi'een the two is their tail. Many of them marry savage lassus and throw in their lot with the aborigines. Hakka farmers and settlers living on the extreme edge of the savage territory also oc- casionally take unto themselves savage Avives, through whose influence many troubles are staved oft'. The savage wife even in the most troublous times can cross the borders with safety, and acting as a go-between often prevents hostilities. The large shanty we are about to enter is perhaps twenty feet long by tAvelve feet broad, and is used solely as a camphor distillery. Sometimes, however, an adjoining building is added as a residence for the cam- phor makers. In the centre of the distillery is an oblong shaped structure some ten feet long by five broad and four feet high, made of mud-bricks, streng- thened or kept together by a sort of wooden framework passed through the mud bricks. The ends of the fur- nace or range of fire-places is blank, but on each side thereof are, say, five fire-holes, a foot or so from the floor, that is, there are five apertures on each side wherein you can place firewood and on which you can put a large earthenware pipkin or cooking pot full of water, and fitted in the mud walls are five earthenware cylindrical shaped pipes on each side, one cylinder over each fire. The top of the furnace is perfectly flat and ten holes are apparent, all circular, the top end of each cylinder being one foot in diameter. On each of them [ 22S ] IS placed an inverted earthenware jar, similar to those- often used by the Chinese for potting the bones of their ancestors, and where the inverted jar or condenser closes over the cylindrical jar or piping, strands of wet hemp are placed to prevent the escape of steam. The cylinder is open at both ends, but at the lower end, where the pot containing the water is, a disc made of perforated wood is placed fitting the top of the pot and also the lower end of the piping. The section of one of these fire places would exhibit a cooking pot with water, and a fire in full blaze underneath ; on the top of the pot would ap- pear the wooden disc Avith holes in it, and the cylinder above that, and on top of all the inverted jar or con- denser. Now, to make camphor it is necessary to fill the cylinder full of chips of camphor-vi^ood, about the size of the first joint of your little finger, so that when the water boils the steam on passing through the per- forated disc and entering the cylinder saturates the cam[)hor chips, and as it ascends it absorbs certain re- sinous matter from the wood, which it carries away with it into the condenser. Whilst distillation is going on an essential oil is produced, and is to be found mixed with the water from the steam and camphor crystals, which form on exposing the condenser to the air. If one of the condensers is suddenly taken off the top of the furnace, and if you are quick enough about it, you will observe at the bottom and on the sides of its interior, beady drops of a liquid which rapidly con^ geals. In a few seconds the crystallisation is complete and the extract of camphor in its crude form, resembling newly fallen snow, is detached by the hand and thrown into baskets lined with damp, cool plantain leaves. To continue the process all that is necessary is to add water to the cooking pot and fresh chips of camphor wood to the cylinder, and to keep the fires going. The camphor producers ha^'e but few tools of any kind, and e.xpenence great difficulty in felling large trees. [ 229 J Others in the timber trade are experts in their way, and with their inferior tools do good work. I have seen certain camphor men engaged in firing the trunks of large camphor trees to save the troiible of felhng them in the ordinary way. Previous to firing the tree they attach rattan stays to the upper branches, and when the trunk is nearly burnt thorough they haul on the stays, and down comes the tree in the direction they want it to fall. The fire is then extinguished and the branches are lopped off and attacked, and the trunk or what is left of it is sawn up. The camphor distillers having a' stock of timber now handy, go to work to prepare cam- phor chips. They use fbr this purpose a curious sort of chisel of the shape of a cheese scoop, fitted on to a curved handle. Every stroke of the chisel scoops out a small finger shaped piece of wood. The branches as well as the trunk of the tree have all to be made into small chips and to be passed through the steaming process. With ten condensers not more than about five cat- ties a day can be produced. As soon as the camphor producers have accumulated a few baskets full, one or two of them start off with them for the nearest border market town and finally, after haggling for hours about the price, the stuff is disposed of, and the proceeds are invested in necessaries, for up in the hills there are no shops, and money is of no use at the distillery. Having described the mode of manufacture of Camphor and given a few incidents of border life, we find space will not permit us at present to cull any more extracts from old notes ; but at some future time, wlien revising this imperfect production, we will return to the subject of Camphor, its trade, the old monopoly and its abrogation, and many other matters connected with the trade as conducted in the old schooner days. At the same time a few small errors which are aj^parent in the journal, will be rectified in foot notes. ^/'I'y-,!,! r ''•mMm. mm^i Nm m 'mi'' >VV'. mi^l