.«£WBKIDQEB 
 
 'PWCE' OWE SHILLING. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 •DUCKS- 
 
 WITH A TREATISE ON 
 
 • GE E S E • 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SF 505.D57 1897 
 
 How to make L50 a year by keeping ducks; 
 
 3 1924 003 128 836 «... 
 
HOW TO MAKE 
 
 £50 
 
 A YEAR BY KEEPING 
 
 DUCKS;.- ■ 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 THE BREEDING AND MANAGEMENT OF THE 
 MOST USEFUL VARIETIES OF 
 
 GEKSE. 
 
 y WfcO PRIZES & PROFIT 
 
 .HEW BRIDGE 8^, IONOOM,E.O. 
 
 sii FiMi ifEi! mmtt 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR AT 
 
 'THE BURNE," BIRCHENCLIFF, 
 HUDDERSFIELD. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 Rev. J. CROMBLEHOLME, 
 
 Has had the honour of breeding every first prize 
 winner at all the principal shows, without exception, 
 in 1897, — in Silver Wyandotte Cockerels. This record 
 is unique in the annals of showing. 
 
 A splendid choice of silver, gold, and buff-laced 
 Wyandottes always on hand. 
 
 Address 
 
 ST. MARY'S, 
 
 CLAYTON-LE-MOORS. 
 
 [ESTABLISHED 52 YEARS.] 
 
 p. J^. JVa^p (S^ Co., 
 
 ADVERTISING AGENTS, 
 
 m LITHOGRAPHERS, ENGRAVERS, ^ 
 DIB 8INKBRfe5, 
 
 AND 
 
 PATENT ACCOUNT BOOK MAKERS 
 
 WOEKS :— 
 
 68, 60&62, SOUTH CASTLE STREET, 
 
 LIVERPOOL. 
 
PBJNTED BY O. R. WaTID ,)• CO , 
 LIVERPOOL. 
 
HEIIRV ErOEV 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Upon the completion of the origuial manuscript of this 
 unpretentious work I voiced to a friend certain fears I 
 entertained as to its reception by the public generally, 
 and the fancying section of the public in particular. His 
 response was in the nature of an assurance that I could 
 stand any criticism which might be levelled at me 
 through it. 
 
 Granted that I am not averse to criticism, I must, never- 
 theless, express the hope that my readers will deal leniently 
 with me, not because my views as herein set forth will not 
 bear criticism, but because in all I have written I have 
 conscientiously striven to say only those things which ripe 
 experience teaches are the best that can be said on the 
 subject. 
 
 The primary object I have in view in compiling the 
 treatise — as the title conveys — is to show " How to make 
 _^5o a year by keeping ducks," and also how to augment 
 that income by breeding geese, I have, consequently, dealt 
 only in my work with those varieties of ducks which I con- 
 sider best fitted to accomplish the object to be achieved. 
 
 The breeding and rearing of ducks, both for exhibition 
 and market, are minutely treated of, the reader being put 
 into possession of all that it is necessary to know in order 
 with ease and confidence to put the theory I propound into 
 successful practice. 
 
2 PREFACE. 
 
 Up to the time of writing this book no attempt had been 
 made to draw up standards of perfection for waterfowl; on 
 the ground that the birds were generally judged by weight. 
 Admittedly, size, i.e., weight, is an important point in the 
 most useful varieties of ducks and geese. At the same 
 time there are many more equally important points to be 
 considered. 
 
 The numerous enquiries I have had from beginners, 
 concerning this matter, convince me that a scale of points 
 would be beneficial, especially to young fanciers. In con- 
 sequence of this I have drawn up standards of excellence 
 for the varieties on which I have written, and, with the 
 assistance of several members of the Waterfowl Club, I am 
 here able to place before my readers recognised standards 
 and scales of points, which I feel sure will be welcomed by, 
 and be a boon to, waterfowl fanciers generally. 
 
 The Burne, 1891. 
 
PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 This issue represents the Fourth Edition of my book. 
 The success with which my humble literary endeavour has 
 from the onset been attended has far outmeasured my 
 fondest expectations. For thus extending to me an unquali- 
 fied meed of kindness and support I am constrained to 
 offer to the public and the Press alike my sincere and 
 hearty thanks. 
 
 That I was justified in introducing standards of perfection 
 and giving scales of points has been shown by the adoption 
 of such standards and scales at the annual general meetings 
 of the Waterfowl Club, held in Liverpool in iSgz and 1897, 
 and by a general consensus of opinion in favour of their 
 universal recognition and use. 
 
 Since first publishing my work I have added to its scope 
 in a manner calculated to increase its usefulness and, 
 generally speaking, to enhance its value. 
 
 Amongst the more important additions is the chapter 
 dealing with " Indian Runner" ducks. To this addition I 
 perhaps naturally attach the greater importance, frcm the 
 circumstance of the original object I had in view in com- 
 piling this book was the improvement of the waterfowl 
 species generally. No doubt my readers will recognise in 
 the standard of perfection appended to the section on the 
 " Indian Runners " a something which supplies a long-felt 
 want. This standard was adopted at the annual general 
 meeting of the Waterfowl Club in January, 1897, and is 
 here reproduced (all rights reserved) with the sanction of 
 the said Club. 
 The Burne, 1897. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In introducing this little work to small farmers, gardeners, 
 and cottagers, I do so with the desire to encourage the 
 breeding of iirst class stock, not necessarily for exhibition, 
 but also for table purposes. 
 
 At the outset let me lay down what I consider to be a 
 fundamental principle, viz., that for successful breeding for 
 exhibition and marketable purposes alike a good class of 
 bird is indispensable to begin with. I shall try to place 
 before my readers that which I consider practical and easy 
 of achievement, as it is far from my purpose to write from a 
 supposititious standpoint. Herein will be found plain rules 
 for the successful management of ducks and geese, and also 
 tables of the different points and their relative show values 
 in five breeds of ducks and two of geese, thus enabling the 
 farmer or young fancier to assess the excellence or otherwise 
 of his stock. 
 
 It has been my aim to show that profit can be made by 
 farmers, or in fact anyone with convenience to keep ducks 
 and geese, if endowed with patience and perseverance. To 
 mention one use to which ducks and geese naturally adapt 
 themselves, and which is sometimes overlooked, I may allude 
 to their value amongst vegetable crops, which they very 
 eagerly free from the injurious influence of caterpillars and 
 other insects. Mr. James Byne, of Woodbine Cottage, 
 Harristown, County Kilkenny, writes to the Weekly Freeman 
 ' on the subject of " Flukes " in sheep, and after an able des- 
 cription of the cause, proceeds to give the remedy as follows : 
 " My family, always fond of poultry breeding, added to their 
 large stock by importing some prize breeds of ducks and 
 geese, which were kept on the low-lying parts of the farm. 
 Strange to say, soon after the introduction, the ' Flukes ' 
 finally disappeared from the land, owing, I am certain, to 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the ducks and geese feeding on the slugs. I would strongly 
 advise any farmer suffering from 'Flukes' to try this simple 
 remedy." The foregoing evidence ought to be sufficient to 
 prove the value of ducks and geese kept on farms and in 
 . large gardens, if only for the sake of cleansing the land of 
 objectionable and destructive insects. 
 
 The prices obtainable for ducks and geese as marketable 
 commodities are far in excess of what they were in the earlier 
 years of the century. Experience shows that superior speci- 
 mens are always the most profitable to breed and rear, even 
 for table purposes. 
 
 It is estimated that London pays upwards of £30,000 per 
 annum to the town and villages surrounding Aylesbury for 
 ducklings. I know for a fact that it is not at all uncommon 
 for a ton weight of ducklings to be sent from Aylesbury to 
 London in one night during the season. These are killed, 
 plucked, and packed in flat hampers. They are collected by 
 the railway companies and forwarded direct to the salesmen, 
 who, I am informed, are very prompt in making their returns. 
 
 Now, if Aylesbury and the villages around can rear and 
 send £30,000 worth of ducklings to the London market, I 
 should like to ask our farmers, gardeners, and cottagers if it 
 is not possible for those resident within easy reach of our 
 Northern towns to breed a proportionate quantity of duck- 
 lings and sell them direct to the consumers ? 
 
 There are hundreds of people living sufficiently near some 
 of our large towns who could add considerably to their 
 present income by keeping and breeding ducks and geese for 
 market purposes alone, and more especially if they keep 
 puf e-bred stock and reserve a few of the very best for exhibi- 
 tion or stock purposes. It is an admitted fact that our 
 British ducks and geese stand pre-eminent. When we 
 remember the prices annually obtained for early ducklings 
 and Christmas geese, it is demonstrative evidence that there 
 is a good demand, especially for first-class articles of food of 
 this description. 
 
HOUSES FOR BREEDING DUCKS. 
 
 Waterfowl should always have a lodging place of 
 their own. They should be kept apart from other fowls, 
 and under no circumstances be allowed to sleep beneath 
 their perches. Still, where only a very few fowls are kept, 
 a little arrangement could be made which would make 
 them a comfortable berth in a hen-house. This could be 
 done by placing loose boards under all the perches, so that 
 the excrement from the fowls would fall upon them, and so 
 protect the ducks and geese from what would otherwise be 
 very objectionable. The better plan, however, is to house 
 waterfowls in separate dormitories They can then be kept 
 very much more comfortable and free from vermin. 
 
 A duck-house can be made out of almost anything, 
 varying from a stall in a stable or cow-house, or any 
 unoccupied out-building frequently seen about a farm- 
 house, to a pigsty or the lower part of a hen-house, often 
 lying dormant behind a cottage. I have seen a most 
 comfortable dwelling for ducks made under a raintub. In 
 this case there was a square basement built of bricks, 4:ft. 
 by 4ft. and 4ft. high, with a door in the front 3 ft. 6 in. 
 high by 2 ft. 6 in. The floor was set with bricks. There 
 was a small square of glass and a ventilator in the door. 
 
 On more than one occasion I have come across a water- 
 barrel itself converted into an abode for ducks. A very 
 large cask or barrel turned on its side will answer this 
 purpose. 
 
 About three battens cut to fit the bottom of the cask 
 and a few boards 1 in. thick make a capital false bottom, 
 whieh can easily be taken out for a thorough cleaning. 
 
 One end of the barrel is taken out and a door made 
 about two feet wide, the whole height of the cask end. 
 The material taken out of the end comes in for the door. 
 
 Bore a few holes in the top of the door for ventilation, 
 cover the top of the barrel with any kind of felt, old oil- 
 cloth, canvas, or anything available, and then give it a 
 good coat of tar, and you have a very nice house for two 
 or three ducks and a drake at the cost of a few shillings. 
 
 1 make a capital duck-house out of two piano cases, as 
 shown in sketch No. 1, which can be bought iu most 
 
O HOUSES FOB BREEDING DOCKS. 
 
 towns for five shillings each. Knock the backs completely 
 out, take tops off, and then place the two cases back to 
 back. Make the door in the centre of one end, taking 
 either two or four boards out of the gable end. Nail 2 in. 
 by 1 in. battens on the inside of these boards, and your 
 door just fits the place out of which it came. All the 
 additional wood required to complete one of the most 
 useful and comfortable houses for a breeding pen of ducks 
 is about 3 ft. 11 in by l^^in. board. This board is sawn 
 diagonally to form the centre of the ends, and is nailed on 
 the top of the ends By this means you add 11 in. to the 
 height of your cases and avoid sawing the ends to get a 
 fall for the roof. The wood taken out of the banks of the 
 two cases will be more than sufficient for battens for the 
 door, also for two battens across the outside of the two 
 cases and two across the iuside of the ends. There will 
 be sufficient for a false bottom if you care to put one in. 
 If you do not wish to put a false bottom in your house the 
 spare wood will come in to make a nice little shed by the 
 side of the house, under which you can put your gravel, 
 old mortar, etc. Don't forget a few holes at the top for 
 ventilation. Th6 boards being nailed on the roof cross- 
 ways will, of course, require covering with felt, five square 
 yards will be sufflcient. 
 
 Your house being now really built, only requires a 
 good coat of lime- wash inside and well tarring outside. 
 A nice bunch of straw shaken on the floor and your 
 house is ready for habitation. 
 
 If you get ordinary -sized oases the dimensions will be 
 about 5 ft. by 4 ft. 6 in. and 5 ft. high,, sufficiently large 
 for a breeding pen of ducks. It will also be large enough 
 to accommodate an average brood of ducklings. It is easy 
 of access for the collection of eggs and cleaning out The 
 whole cost of material, including hinges, staples and pad- 
 lock, is fifteen shillings. This is not allowing for labour 
 but even after making an allowance of five shillings on 
 this account, we have a really good duck-house for £1. 
 
 I do not believe in large houses and large flocks of 
 ducks, especially for stock purposes. My experience is 
 that a small flock of ducks comfortably housed pays much 
 better than a large flock all running together and housed 
 in one large shed or room. 
 
DUCK-HOUSE AND ENCLOSURE. 
 
 The illustration on the following page is a sketch of one 
 of the most useful houses for rearing a large quantity 
 of ducklings for market, or a less number for exhibition, 
 containing, as shown on the plan, eight large and 
 commodious pens all under one roof, six of which are 9 ft. 
 by 9 ft., and two 18 ft. by 9 ft. The partitions dividing the 
 pens are 2i ft. high. 
 
 The enclosure is 27 ft. by IS ft, and the water-tank in 
 the centre represents a galvanized iron cistern, 6 ft. by 3 ft. 
 6 in. and 1 ft. deep. Water must be conveyed into this 
 tank in the way most convenient to the ducker. My 
 method is by means of a 1 J inch pipe, and is run off by 
 means of a brass plug in the bottom, and a drain falling 
 to the lowest level of the ground outside the structure. 
 
 The outside measurement of the building, which is of 
 wood, is 36 feet X 36 feet, height at ridge 8 feet, and at 
 eaves 6 feet, and the gates, which are double, are 7 feet 
 wide. The doors are 5 feet X 2 feet 6 inches, over which 
 and right along the top of the house, under the eaves, is 
 run a piece of strong wire netting one foot wide, thus 
 giving abundance of light and ventilation. 
 
 The floors may be of wood, brick, or concrete. I prefer 
 the latter. The roof may be covered with felting 
 corrugated, iron, or thatched with straw, but I find that 
 felting, well tarred, answers best. 
 
 As the doors of the pens open out into the enclosure, 
 each lot of ducklings can be turned out to feed and water 
 separately, during which time the pen can be thoroughly 
 cleaned out. 
 
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DUOK-HCUSE AND KNOLOSUBB. 11 
 
 The advantages to the duck-keeper of a house of this 
 kind are many. In the iirst place it is more suitable for 
 rearing a large quantity of ducklings either for market or 
 exhibition, or the two combined. It is also admirably 
 adapted for housing stock ducks. It would also answer 
 for geese and for preparing any kind of heavy waterfowl 
 for exhibition. 
 
 Such a house can be put up for very little cost, especially 
 if the ducker is a handy man with the saw, hammer, and 
 nails, and can put it up himself. 
 
 This plan of mine has also another advantage, for 
 should its dimensions be too large or too small for the 
 purse, space, or requirements of my readers, they may add 
 to or diminish the size according to their own convenience. 
 
 This house and enclosure is, according to my own idea, 
 most practical and inexpensive, considering the amount 
 of accomodation it affords. 
 
 Sketch No. 3 is a correct representation of the interior of 
 my duck-house now in use at " The Burne," and although it 
 only shows three pens on each side there is in reality twenty 
 pens in this house, each pen being 6 ft. by 4 ft. — total length 
 40 ft. and 18 ft. wide ; the passage in the centre being 6 ft. 
 wide ; the height at the ridge is 13 ft. and at eaves 7 ft. The 
 pens are divided by wood partitions 3 ft. high and continued 
 to the top of the house by a frame of wood laths. The 
 doors are 6 ft. by 3 ft. 6 in. and are boarded and lathed same 
 as the partitions ; it is lighted by means of skylights, and 
 ventilated at the top of each end, so that it is useful not only 
 as a duck-house but also as a poultry-house. The floors 
 are concrete, so that they can be easily cleaned out by swil- 
 ling with water. The roof is covered with strong felting, the 
 whole structure well tarred outside and lime-washed inside. 
 It is a most convenient house, and was not expensive. It has 
 the fame advantages as No. 2, so far as size and requirements 
 are concerned. 
 
13 
 
 PONDS AND WATER. 
 
 One of the foremost considerations for those contem- 
 plating the breeding of ducks and geese is that of an 
 abundant and constant supply of water. As their generic 
 title — waterfowl — implies, their first instinct is in the 
 direction of water. A first essential to successful breeding 
 is ready and regular access to water. It does not necessarily 
 follow that there should be a running stream, but a pond or 
 pool of such dimensions as to permit of the birds taking a 
 bath is au absolute necessity for the free propagation of 
 their species. For rearing for exhibition purposes the 
 supply of water for bathing must all along be unstinting 
 and easily accessible. Whereas in rearing for the table a 
 less extensive supply might suffice, nay, in fact, at certain 
 seasons of the year is desirable. 
 
 Ponds for ducks are made all shapes and sizes, and of 
 nearly all kinds of materials. 
 
 The first duck-pond I had was the end of a large oil-cask, 
 about nine inches deep and three feet in diameter. This 
 was sank in the ground, so that the top was level with the 
 surface, and when there was no water draining off the land, 
 I had the pleasure of filling it with water out of a draw- 
 well, which I had sunk close by. As time went on I grew 
 tired of drawing the water out of the well with a pail, so 
 had a pump fixed, which answered very well for a time, 
 until I began breeding rather extensively, when I found it 
 necessary to have a larger pond. To meet emergency, I 
 bought a galvanized iron cistern, 6 ft. by 3 ft. 6 in. and 1 ft. 
 deep. This was sunk in the ground in the same manner as 
 the cask end above referred to. It had a brass plug on the 
 bottom, so that the water could be let off through the drain 
 
1+ PONDS AND WATEU. 
 
 beneath and be cleaned out. This cistern is one of the 
 best ponds I ever used for ducks, it has been in use now for 
 over twelve years, is still in sound condition, and at this 
 date — October 28th, 1897 — is still in use in one of my runs 
 at "The Burne." During the twelve years use of this 
 cistern it has been removed from one place to another on 
 two occasions, and has never cost a single penny for repairs. 
 
 It is a very easy matter making a pond if you have a 
 constant stream of water. Some of my ponds at " The 
 Burne" are twenty yards long, and vary in width from one 
 to six yards. In the first place we make a wall of stones or 
 bricks, jnst leaving a space for a 6 in. iron pipe in the 
 bottom This pipe is to run the water off to clean the 
 pond out. Build a wall across the lower part of the stream, 
 then build another wall of bricks about a foot distant from 
 the first, and fill in the space between with clay made into 
 puddle. 
 
 In flat countries all that is required is a little excavation 
 where there is any run of water, and you have soon a 
 duck-pond. 
 
 The difficulties in making suitable ponds are where there 
 is little or no water. Then comes in the use of bricks, 
 stone, wood, and cement, or better than all, a good 
 galvanized iron cistern, which is not expensive, holds a good 
 body of water, takes up very little room, and, by the 
 adoption of a plug, can be cleaned out easier and better 
 than any other pond. 
 
 A certain writer asserts that ducklings " will grow faster 
 without water than with it," which in my opinion is a great 
 mistake Water is the natural element for ducks, it is not 
 in their nature to thrive without having access to it, 
 therefore, if you want perfect symmetry, a bright eye, and 
 a general bloom throughout, you must attend to nature's 
 behests, and not allow your ducklings to die in the sun 
 They will not die in the sun if theycan get into water. 
 
HOW TO BEGIN AND THE SELECTION 
 OF STOCK. 
 
 I WISH it to be distinctly understood that I am not 
 presuming to show capitalists how to make £500 a year 
 simply by multiplying my figures by ten. But I know by 
 experience that there is money to be made by keeping 
 ducks, and I will endeavour to show small farmers, gar- 
 deners, cottagers, and new fanciers, having a desire to keep, 
 and still a fear of keeping, ducks, that theyinay do so 
 successfully, and that without spending very much money 
 at the commencement. 
 
 I often smile when reflecting on the course I took in 
 beginning my career as a fancier. Always from my youth 
 upwards imbued with a lofty ambition, I started out on the 
 venture with the fixed intentions of making a bold bid for 
 first-class honours from the onset. I sent my orders and 
 cash to the best breeders in the kingdom and asked for the 
 best birds that could be bought. No doubt I got what I 
 asked for, which cost me a lot of money, yes, more than I 
 ever dare tell my better half. 
 
 Then, like many more impatient novices, I entered my 
 birds for all the Shows in the district, on some occasions 
 winning the coveted premier honours. Not satisfied with 
 reasonable success, I still went on exhibiting at every Show 
 within easy reach until my once beautiful ducks were 
 either all dead or nearly so 
 
 Experience proverbially teaches wisdom. After many 
 necessitudes peculiar to beginners, arid by dint of persistent 
 observation I at last learned sufiBcient to enable rae to 
 make profit out of my hobby. 
 
 My first words to the fancier in embyro is, be careful in 
 the purchase of jour eggs or the selection of your breeding 
 stock. 
 
 The selection of eggs or stock is one of the most import- 
 ant requisites for success in breeding ducks and geese. 
 
16 HOW TO BEGIN AXU SELECTION' OF STOCK. 
 
 It is most desirable and important to learn what variety 
 of waterfowl is most suitable for yoar circumstances and 
 accommodation. All ducks are not alike They differ 
 couaiderably in size, colour, etc. Some varieties would 
 thrive and do well under conditions which would prove 
 fatal to others. The bills of the Aylesburys would un- 
 doubtedly be affected on a ferruginous soil, as also would 
 the keeping of them under certain other disadvantages; 
 ■whereas the Pekins would thrive and arrive at the highest 
 state of perfection on such soil and under such circum- 
 stances ; whilst the Rouen and Cayuga would flourish on a 
 class of land and on waters which would be detrimental to 
 either the Aylesbury or Pekins, so far as exhibition points 
 are concerned. By the same rule the white Embden goose 
 should not be selected for land and water containing much 
 iron, for the white plumage would certainly be affected by 
 it. Therefore I would advise beginners to consider well the 
 class of ducks or geese best adapted to their circumstances. 
 
 Previous to purchasing your stock birds be sure that 
 you have house or houses and pond complete. If you 
 wish to be successful Iceep one variety only. Of course 
 you will keep that variety which best pleases your taste, 
 if adapted to your circumstances and accommodation. 
 Personally, I have found the Aylesbury ducks most 
 profitable, their reputation for table purposes and egg 
 production being unrivalled. They are hardy, good for- 
 agers, and lay an abundant supply of large eggs. Their 
 colour being pure white, there is no fear of foul feathers, 
 bad pencilling, &c. Their progeny are, under ordinary 
 circumstances, fast growers, and put on flesh at a very 
 early age. I believe I am correct in saying that they 
 arrive at maturity sooner than any other variety, and, for 
 all-round purposes, I believe they are the best and most 
 profitable of all ducks. 
 
 Next to the useful Aylesbury comes the maguifioent 
 Eouen. There is an excellent representation of a Drake 
 of this variety in Mr. Lewis Wright's book, in fact it is 
 the best I ever saw, but it is tame compared with the 
 metallic hues and irridesoence of the plumage of a living 
 specimen in first-class condition. The grand colour and 
 
HOW TO BEGIN AN'D SBI.ECTIOV OP STOCK. 17 
 
 peuoilling of a first-class Rouen duck are exceedingly pretty, 
 but unless breeders are on their guard they will eventually 
 ruin the constitution of this beautiful variety. 
 
 Size and stamina should be considered quite as much 
 as colour and marking. Therefore let me caution breeders 
 not to sacrifice size for the sake of a too fine marking. 
 Do not select your stock birds too closely related. I 
 know some strains are already degenerating, and if in- 
 breeding is indulged in much further, size and stamina 
 are sure to suffer. 
 
 The Pekins will live and do well in many places where 
 the Aylesburys could not, and the fact of their being so 
 very wild when at exhibitions may be accounted for by 
 their enjoying perfect liberty at their homes. I have 
 known Pekins sent to an exhibition without any prepar- 
 ation whatever, having been lifted off their runs and sent 
 direct to the show, where they have secured first honours, 
 being in spleudid condition. This variety looks larger 
 than it really is. being much denser in plumage, but does 
 not come up to the Aylesburys or Rouens by some pounds 
 in weight. They are, however, very good layers and 
 foragers, and when crossed with the Aylesburys mature 
 very early, and make capital birds for the table. 
 
 The Cayuga is a very handsome and useful variety, 
 and deserves to be better known and encouraged, its 
 brilliant green-black plumage and great size being suffi-' 
 cient to recommend it. The flavour of its flesh is con- 
 sidered by some people superior to any other of our 
 domesticated varieties. I can strongly reuommeud it to 
 gentlemen for their own tables. It is not only useful, but 
 exceedingly ornamental, and suitable for auy kind of 
 land. There is no denying the fact that crossing improves 
 the size and stamina of ducks. Still, I do not see the 
 advantage of crossing two different varieties, even for market 
 purposes. There are so many fanciers of any one variety . 
 nowadays that it is easy euough to get a drake which is 
 not related to anyone's own ducks without introducing the 
 blood of another variety into the veins of our much-prized 
 pure-bred stock, which is just as good_for the table as a 
 
18. HOW TO BEGIN AND SELECTION OF STOCK. 
 
 mongrel would be. The very best would certainly be 
 worth more than killing price. The few best should realize- 
 the bulk of the profit. 
 
 Id making your selection of breeding-stock ducks be 
 sure that the birds you are buying are comparatively 
 young. If you purchase ducks two years old, let your 
 drake be only one year old, or vice versa. Ducks arrive 
 at- maturity much earlier than geese. My experience is 
 that the best results are obtained from birds of one or two 
 years of age. On no account would I advise anyone to 
 purchase stock-ducks over two years old or thereabouts, 
 although they frequently breed well in their third year. 
 Three or four ducks are sufficient to put to one drake. The 
 ducks should be selected from one yard, and the drake 
 from another. 
 
 Some extensive breeders of one variety might be able to 
 supply both unrelated, but satisfy yourself that the stock 
 you are buying is young, the marking rings introduced 
 and adopted by the Waterfowl Club being a safeguard in 
 this respect. Do not on any account be tempted to pur- 
 chase old, used-up exhibition birds for stock purposes, for 
 nothing but loss and disappointment would follow. 
 
 Buy your stock birds from reliable breeders, and, if 
 possible, go and look at the whole stock you select from. 
 You would then be able to judge who are the breeders of 
 the best birds. Be aware of misleading advertisements, 
 for there are a few sucli put in some of our poultry journals 
 occasionally. Don't put too much confidence in wholesale 
 dealers and professed breeders of numerous varieties. 
 They are seldom able to win at a good show, even with 
 their very best. If they cannot win with their very best, 
 you may rest assured that they cannot sell birds for others 
 to win with, and there is little or no dependence to be placed 
 on their stock. In coi^sequouce of rapid and continued 
 changes being made in their stock, it never becomes a 
 strain in which there is any certainty. These dealers 
 are continually buying and selling, jast as opportunity 
 presents itself, consequently their birds cannot be relied 
 upon for stock purposes in the same degree as can birds from 
 the stock of a skilful, successful, and careful breeder only. 
 
HOW TO liEOIX AND SELKCnoN OF STOf:K. 19 
 
 My opinion on the way to success is to make a proper 
 start. Go to some breeder of the one particular variety 
 in which you have decided to iuvest your money, and 
 there make your selection according to your requirements 
 and other circumstauces. Do not on any account be tempted 
 to purchase old birds. Invest your capital and energies 
 in young, healthy stock. In perusing one of our poultry 
 journals a short time since, I noticed an article written by 
 one of these wholesale dealeis, in which he cautions beginners 
 not to go to large exhibitors forstock birds, on the ground that 
 they often buy their exhibition birds from other breeders. 
 Tliis may be an exception, but it is certainly not the rule. 
 If new beginners will take my advice they will go to the 
 large breeders and exhibitors for their stock birds. Such 
 large breeders and exhibitors are always prepared to 
 supply stock birds at reasonable charges, and in very many 
 cases at sums only a little over killing price. In fact it 
 is from these large breeders and exhibitors that the whole- 
 sale dealere get the bulk of their merchandise. A pamphlet 
 lies before me as I write in which are oflFered eggs for sitting 
 from no less than 80 separate pens of poultry, ducks, geese, 
 and turkeys, together with nearly a thousand and one 
 other articles var3ing in form from poultry houses to poultry 
 pills and insect powder He must have a very large establish- 
 ment, also an immense staff of men or pupils. I fancy the 
 staff will consist of the latter, as the fee for three months' 
 tuition is something over £10. Now, according to the above 
 list, th^s gentleman must have 80 separate pens of stock birds 
 from which to supply eggs. There appears to be no allowance 
 made for more than one pen of each variety. Consequently, 
 the vendor expects to breed both cockerels and pullets up to 
 the present state of perfection from one pen of stock birds ! 
 
 I will not dwell longer on this point, further than ask 
 two questions. First, — Does it not take ten separate 
 breeding peus of Hamburghs to produce five pairs of 
 exhibition birds ? Secondly, — Does it not take two breed- 
 ing pens of ducks to produce one pair of exhibition 
 Eouen3 ? 
 
 It will be to the advantage of all beginners if they take 
 time and carefully consider the importance of the selection 
 of ?tock. 
 
21 
 
 MODERN AYLESBURY DUCKS. 
 
 This famous breed of ducks, being my own speciality, 
 naturally occupies the first place in my estimation. The 
 great size to which the birds attain at an early age, the 
 excellent flavour of their flesh, and the temptiug appear- 
 ance they present when killed and nicely dressed, are 
 qualities all unequalled by any other breed. They are 
 very prolific, hardy, and thorough foragers ; they thrive in 
 almost any climate or on any soil, doing equally well in the 
 South of England or in the North of Scotland ; they also 
 do well in Australia and America. I have sent several 
 consignments to these countries during the last ten years, 
 and have frequently heard good reports from my customers. 
 Their name suggests that their centre is Aylesbury, in 
 Buckinghamshire. 
 
 No doubt there was a time whea there were reasonable 
 grounds for supposing that the Aylesbury duck was a local 
 variety. In fact, it was generally thought (not more than 
 25 years ago) that this breed could only be kept in perfect 
 condition in the Vale of Aylesbury, but as the nambor of 
 Poultry Shows increased, and with them fanciers, the 
 Lancashire fanciers soon began to share the honours with 
 exhibitors bailing from Aylesbury. 
 
 A little later on followed a well-known Scottish fancier, who 
 also managed to keep the Aylesburys in fine condition. Then 
 came Mrs. Stiuton, of Darlington, who bred and showed the 
 Aylesbury duck in faultless condition. After this came a 
 Yorkshire fancier, who succeeded in breeding and exhibiting 
 the Ten Guinea Challenge Cup winnerthreeyearsinsuccession, 
 thus winning the trophy outright. This Yorkshireman, who 
 is none other than your humble servant, flatters himself 
 with the knowledge of the fact that he is able to keep 
 Aylesburys in perfect health and condition, although his 
 land is very heavy and damp, the sub-soil being yellow clay. 
 I am, however, bound to admit that in the "County of many 
 Acres," and the North generally, we cannot breed these birds 
 so early in the season as they can in the South of England. 
 
22 MODERN AYLESBUEY DUCKS. 
 
 For home consumption and market purposes let me 
 strongly recommend this breed to farmers and others, for 
 they excel in every particular. In the first place, they 
 arrive at maturity sooner than any other variety of ducks. 
 They are as hardy as crows, attain to a great weight, and 
 are wonderfully prolific. The London markets are regularly 
 supplied with enormous quantities of them during the 
 season. 
 
 Duck-breeding is carried on in and about Aylesbury by 
 what is termed "a superior class of labourers." These 
 are men who have saved up money enough to secure an 
 immunity from hard work, and who do not grudge giving 
 their whole time and attention to this pursuit. During 
 the months of November and December high prices are 
 paid for Aylesbury duck eggs for sitting, ten shillings and 
 twelve shillings per dozen being no uncommon price at 
 that time of the year, the purchaser running the risk of 
 their proving fertile. 
 
 The streams and ponds within several miles of Aylesbury 
 are looked upon as common property. Hundreds of white 
 ducks, with patches of paint of various colours dabbed 
 upon some particular part of their plumage, may be seen 
 on the river Thames, or in the brooks, or on the ponds. 
 These distinctive marks are the marks of ownership. The 
 ducks generally separate of their own accord into their 
 own flocks towards evening, and they are then driven 
 home, well fed, and comfortably housed for the night. It 
 is no uncommon sight to see upwards of 3,000 ducklings 
 in one establishment. When the outside accommodation 
 is fully occupied, the cottage or living room is frequently 
 used as a dormitory for ducklings. They are always kept 
 very clean and on dry straw. 
 
 Very little description is required as to plumage. It 
 fhould be of the purest white throughout and fit close to 
 the body. Consequently the Aylesbury duck has advan- 
 tages over those varieties which have many colours. Wher- 
 ever colour and markings are considerations, size, stamina, 
 and laying propensities have to some degree been sacrificed 
 for these chaiacteristics, thereby causing diminution in 
 usefulness. Whereas the Aylesbury, being one self-colour 
 
MOBBBN AYLESBURY DUCES- 
 
 23 
 
 is improved year by year by the introduction of fresh blood. 
 So great is the improvement in this variety that most of 
 the reports in our poultry journals of the Crystal Palace 
 Show of late years assert that the Aylesburys get larger 
 and larger. Therefore I maintain that whilst we are 
 improving this handsome and most useful variety as an 
 exhibition bird, we are also enhancing its commercial value 
 as a table fowl. The bill should be broad and long, coming 
 straight from the skull, and it must be a delicate pale flesh 
 colour. A ferruginous soil will often affect the bill in such 
 a manner that it becomes yellow. 
 
 Black marks or spots on the bills are very objectionable, 
 and would disqualify an exhibition bird. The pale flesh- 
 coloured bill of the pure breed can be kept right in almost 
 every locality with ordinary attention. Birds for exhibition 
 must be kept out of the hot sun, and should not have 
 too much liberty. I will go more fully into this subject 
 in another chapter. The legs and feet should be bright 
 orange, forming a striking contrast with the white plumage. 
 The body should be long, broad and deep ; and the keel 
 long and straight from breast to paunch. 
 
 It has been suggested that these keel birds are not the 
 correct type for Aylesburys, but as they have a common 
 origin with the Rouen, I think they are the correct type, 
 for length and depth of keel denotes length and breadth 
 of breast bone, upon which is carried the most valuable 
 flesh. At the same time, I must utter a word of caution 
 against an extravagant ideal for the keel, which should not 
 be represented by an excess of loose bags of skin and 
 feathers trailing on the ground, but should consist of actual 
 length and depth of body. Personally I have been most 
 successful with the keeled birds, and shall continue to 
 breed as many of this stamp as possible. The keel does 
 not show itself so much in the first year as it does in the 
 second and subsequently. 
 
 A well-matured drake, well fatted, will weigh J Olbs., but 
 this weight is seldom obtained. I consider seven to nine 
 pounds very good birds, and quite heavy enough for stock 
 purposes. 
 
MODERN ATLESBDBT DUCKS. 
 
 24 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING AYLESBURY 
 
 DUCKS. 
 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 Head 
 and 
 Eye. 
 
 BiU. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Breast. 
 
 Keel. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Plumage. 
 
 Symmetry, 
 
 Legs and 
 Feet. 
 
 Health and 
 Condition. 
 
 General appearance of hea'J, largre, straight 
 and long. 
 
 Dark and fnll 
 
 Long, broad, and straight, forming a straight 
 line, or nearly bo, from the top of skull. 
 A drake's head and bill measuring about 64 
 inches, duck's about 6| inches ; colour of 
 bill, pinky white or flesh-colour. 
 
 Long, medium thickness, carried in symmetry 
 with the body 
 
 Full and deep. 
 
 Straight and deep, forming a, straight under- 
 line from breast to paunch 
 
 As large as possible. A well-matured drake 
 wiU measure 36 inches from end of bill to end 
 of toes when stretched out flat on a table, 
 and weigh 9 or 10 lbs., and a, duck wiU 
 measure 34 inches and weigh 8 or 9 lbs. Any 
 excess on these lengths and weights should 
 be allowed for as extraordinary merit. 
 
 A spotless white throughout, the drake having 
 two or three handsomely curled feathers in 
 his tail 
 
 Large straight head and bill, well carried on a 
 long curved neck. Long, broad and deep 
 body, with straight underline from stem to 
 stem 
 
 Very strong and thick in bone ; well set, so as 
 to balance the body in a, straight line. 
 Colour, bright orange 
 
 Eye, bold and clear. Plumage, bright and 
 glossy, having the appearance of white satin. 
 Bill, pinky white, and general appearance 
 very lively. 
 
 Points 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 Total number of Points 
 
 12 
 100 
 
 Disqualifications. — Crooked back, wry tail, or any other de- 
 formity. Bill any colour other than white or flesh-colour. Plumage 
 other than white. Ducks so heavy behind that in the opinion of 
 the Judge they will not breed. 
 
27 
 
 MODERN ROUEN DUCKS. 
 
 fJlHE original colour and shape of Kouens, male and 
 -*- female, was that of the common Malard and wild 
 duck, but, like all modern domesticated fowls, the fancier 
 has brought them to a wonderfully improved state of 
 beauty, shape, and perfection. 
 
 There is no comparison whatever in the Eouens of 
 thirty years ago with our deep-keeled, rich-coloured, 
 clear-billed specimens of to-day. As for the teild ducks, 
 they are tame specimens indeed in comparison. 
 
 SHAPE AND CAEKIAGE. 
 
 Eouens of both sexes should be very large The drake's 
 head and bill should be as long and straight as possible ; 
 that of the duck, long and moderately straight. A dished 
 bill in Eouens is most unsightly. In both, male and 
 female the outline of the back should be long and almost 
 straight to end of tail, the curled feathers in the drake's 
 tail of course excepted. The breast very deep, and 
 running with a straight parallel keel, or underline, behind 
 the legs, where the stern gradually rises to a close-carried 
 tail. Old ducks are naturally more square in stem. 
 
28 MODBBN ROUBN UUOKS 
 
 OOLOUE OF DRAKE. 
 
 There are few, if any, of our British, fowls that can equal 
 the lustrous beauty, the harmonious and pleasing contrast 
 of the Eouen drake's plumage. The bill should be orange 
 in colour, a very slight shade of green admissible, but in 
 any case uniform throughout, perfectly clear from all 
 black stripes or spots, with the exception of the natural 
 black bean at the tip. During the summer season, Kouens, 
 like other waterfowl, cast the outer skin of their bills, 
 and sometimes this appears in large yellow blotches or 
 scales. At our summer shows this should not distract 
 from the merit of an otherwise perfect drake. The entire 
 head down to the neck ring is a beautiful and most 
 lustrous green. 
 
 The white ring encircling three-fourths of the neck 
 should be clear and distinct, clean cut, and neatly defined ; 
 a wide ring shows want of quality. The breast colour 
 should be a wide, deep, and dense claret, and as clean cut 
 underneath, from shoulder to shoulder, as the distinctive 
 colouring of a shelldrake. All the undercolour below the 
 wings, from the claret to the vent, should be a clear 
 bluish grey, which is composed of very minutely-pencilled 
 feathers. Drakes do not always moult sound in their 
 claret breasts and clear in the undercolour, and when this 
 is the case they are, of course, unfit for exhibition. In all 
 likelihood, however, they will come out clear and sound 
 the following moult, so they should not be despised. 
 
MODBRN ROUKN; DUCKS, 29 
 
 Down the centre of t}ie drake's back should run a broad 
 dai'k line, increasing in density and lustre towards the 
 tail, parallel with which, on each side, on the top of the 
 wings and including part of the secondaries, are clear lines 
 of the same colour and shade (or one shade darker admis- 
 sible) as the undercolour, distinct and clear as possible, 
 and free from cloudy shades or rusty feathers. A darker 
 rim again encircles this below, and includes the lower 
 edge and tips of the secondaries, which blend well with 
 the dark flights. White secondaries are a great failing 
 with Rouens of both sexes, and should be guarded against. 
 
 The bow of the wing when spread out, which is covered 
 with short feathers, is cinnamon brown. This colour 
 behind the wing-bars gradually darkens and descends 
 into the flights, which terminates in a very dark brown 
 or black. The only portion of the bow -visible when the 
 wing is closed is a narrow strip extending from the 
 shoulder-point to the bars. This in colour is a uniform 
 cinnamon-brown. 
 
 The beautiful and characteristic wing-bars, which are 
 the only features in connection with the male and female, 
 are composed of a broad purple-blue band, on each side 
 of which is a narrow bar of black, and again a bar of white. 
 The black and white bars in front of the blue band are a 
 shade wider than those behind, but all must be clear, 
 distinct, a striking and lustrous contrast of colours. The 
 stiff tail feathers of the drake should be dark-brown, like 
 the flights, a very narrow lacing of white on the lower 
 edge of each tail feather admissible. More white than 
 this is objectionable. White or ashy tail feathers denote 
 unsoundness, and white rumps and white secondary wing 
 
30 MODERN- ROUEN DUCKS. 
 
 feathers are sure to follow. The upper tail coverts, the 
 curled feathers, and directly under the tail should be a 
 glossy green-black. The blue-grey undercolour should 
 join on to the black, under the tail, sound and clear. 
 The undercolour here has a decided tendency to terminate 
 too light in colour, frequently an objectionable band of 
 white divides the blue and the black. All breedei-s have 
 this difficulty to contend with more or less in breeding 
 bright-coloured drakes. 
 
 The other extreme is also objectionable in the exhibition 
 specimen. If drakes are too dark underneath, behind the 
 legs, they are generally too cloudy and dark on the back, 
 although these are useful birds to breed from occasionally. 
 
32 MODERN ROUEN DUCKS. 
 
 COLOUR OF DUCKS. 
 
 The down and undercolour of a Rouen duck is black or 
 dark-brown. The upper ground colour almost throughout 
 is also dark-chestnut brown, with a greenish lustre. 
 Each feather has an inner and outer pencilling of rich 
 golden brown. This pencilling should be as even and 
 uniform on the breast, back, underbody, rump, and tail as 
 possible, the exceptions being the head, neck, throat, and 
 bow. The three former are brownish-grey, two light- 
 brown lines running from the base of the bill above the 
 eye. The visible part of the wing bow, as described in 
 the drakes, is a dull-brown, with a single gold minute 
 pencilling round each small feather, resembling honoy- 
 comb in shape and regularity. The wing, the wing bars, 
 and the primai-y flights are exactly the same as those of 
 the drake already described. 
 
 A perfect duck's upper bill in colour should be a bright 
 orange with a decided black centre mark, which must 
 neither extend to the base of the bill, the side edges, or 
 within one inch from the end. 
 
 Green or lead-coloured bills are very objectionable in 
 both sexes, but during the breeding and moulting season 
 the best marked bills go temporarily dull in colour. 
 
M )DEH\ ROUES DUCKS. 
 
 33 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN 
 DRAKES. 
 
 Head and 
 Beak. 
 
 Colour of 
 Beak. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Ring. 
 
 Claret 
 Breast. 
 
 Chain 
 Armoor or 
 
 Flank 
 Fencillings. 
 
 Stern. 
 
 TaU 
 Coverts. 
 
 Back and 
 Rump. 
 
 GENRRAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 General appearance of the head ahould be mas- 
 sive, and of rich iridescent green, with long, 
 wide, flat beak, well set on, in a straight line 
 from the tip of the eye. 
 
 A bright greenish yeUow, with black bean at 
 the tip 
 
 Long and tapering, slightly carved but not 
 arched, carried erect in symmetry with body. 
 Colour, rich iridescent green. 
 
 Perfectly white and clean cut, dividing green 
 neck and claret breast, but not quite en- 
 circling the neck, leaving a small space at 
 back 
 
 Eich claret colour, coming well under, clean 
 cut, not running into body colour, and quite 
 free from white pencilling or chain armour. 
 
 Colour, a rich bltiish French-grey ground, well 
 pencilled with glossy black, perfectly free 
 from white, rust or iron . 
 
 Same ground as flank, very boldly pencilled 
 close up to vent, finishing in an indistinct 
 curved line (perfectly free from white) fol- 
 lowed by rich black feathers up to tail coverts. 
 
 Colour, black or slaty-black, with brownish 
 tinge, with two or three greenish-black curl 
 feathers in centre. 
 
 Colour, rich greenish-black from between 
 shoulders to rump 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 Folnts 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
34 
 
 MODERN ROUEN DUCKS. 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING EOUEN DRAKES- continped. 
 
 Large 
 Coverts. 
 
 Bars. 
 
 ». Flights. 
 
 Colour 
 throughout 
 
 ize. 
 
 Symmetry, 
 
 Le&rs and 
 Feet. 
 
 Health and 
 
 Condition, 
 
 Points 
 
 Brought forward ... 50 
 
 Pale clear grey. (Small ooverts) French-grey 
 very finely pencilled. (Pinion coverts) dark 
 grey or slaty-black 
 
 Two, composed of one line of white in centre 
 of small coverts; colour, grey, tipped with 
 black, also forming a line at the base of the 
 flight coverts, which latter feathers should 
 be a slaty-black colour on the upper side of 
 the quill and a rich bright iridescent blue on 
 the lower side, each of these feathers being 
 tipped with white at end of lower side, form- 
 ing two distinct white bars (the pinion bar 
 being edged with black) with a bold blue 
 ribbon mark between the two. 
 
 Slaty-black, with brown tinge free from white 
 
 Distinct markings, clean cut and well defined 
 in every detail. Plumage bright and glossy. 10 
 
 As large as possible, 36 inches being a fair length 
 from end of bill to end of toes when stretched 
 cut on a table, 9 to 10 lbs. being a fair good 
 weight for a matured bird 10 
 
 Great length, broad and square, very deep in 
 keel, just clear of the ground from stem to 
 stern 10 
 
 Large in bone and well set, so as to balance the 
 body in a straight line. Colour, bright red . 5 
 
 Bright and glossy plumage, wearing every 
 feather, bold and clear in eye. Heavy in 
 weight but not broken down \Q 
 
 Total number of Points 100 
 
 DISQUALIPICATIOKS. — Crooked back, wry tail, or any other 
 deformity ; white flights ; no ring on neck ; black saddle on beak ; 
 leaden beak ; wing down or twisted ; no wing bars ; broken down 
 in stern. 
 
jrODERN ROUEK DUCKS. 
 
 35 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING ROUEN 
 DUCKS. 
 
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 Head and 
 Beak. 
 
 Colour of 
 Head. 
 
 Colonr of 
 
 Beak 
 
 Saddle. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Ground 
 Colonr. 
 
 Pencilling. 
 
 CO cBars. 
 
 § (Flights. 
 
 As near approaching the drake in size, shape, 
 and form as possible. ... 
 
 Rich golden, almond, or chestnut brown, with 
 a wide brownish-black line from the base of 
 the beak to neck, and very bold black lines 
 across the head, above and below the eye, 
 filled in with smaller lines between 
 
 Bright orange, ground with black saddle ex- 
 tending nearly across to each side of the beak 
 and about two-thirds down towards the tip. 
 with bean as in the drake 
 
 Long and tapering, slightly curved, and carried 
 in symmetry with the body as in the drake, 
 same colour as head, with brownish wide 
 line at the back of neck from shoulders, 
 shading to black up to head 
 
 Hich golden, almond, or chestnut-brown, even 
 in colour throughout 
 
 Every feather, excepting wing flights and bars, 
 should be distinctly pencilled from throat 
 and breast to flank and stem, with lustrous 
 black or very dark brown, inclnding back 
 and rump, and wing and taU coverts, with a 
 greenish lustre in black pencilling on rump 
 
 Two distinct white bars, with bold blue ribbon 
 mark between, as in the drake 
 
 Brownish, slaty-black, no white. 
 
 Carried fprward ... 
 
 Points 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
36 
 
 MODERN ROUEN DUCKS. 
 
 SOHEDTJLB FOR JUDGING EOTJBN DUCKS, 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Symmetry. 
 
 Legs and 
 Feet. 
 
 Health and 
 Condition. 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 Ab large as possible, aboat 34 inclies in length, 
 and 8 to 9 lbs. is a fair good weight 
 
 Long, broad and square, massive in appearance 
 every way, very deep in keel, square in 
 carriage from stem to stern, but not touching 
 the ground. 
 
 Colour, dull brown orange Large in bone and 
 well set, so as to balance the body in a 
 straight line .. 
 
 Full plumage, bright and full of lustre. Bold 
 eye. Heavy but not down in stern ... 
 
 Total number of Points 
 
 PolntB 
 
 65 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 i2_ 
 100 
 
 Disqualifications. — Crooked back, wry tail, or any other de- 
 formity ; white ring, or approaching white, on neck ; wing down ; 
 white flights ; no wing bars ; leaden beak ; broken down in stern ; 
 or so heavy that in the opinion of the Judge they will not breed. 
 
37 
 
 MODERN PEKIN DUCKS. 
 
 This variety differs from all others in shape and carriage. 
 It has been wonderfully improved since its first importation 
 into this country. It is of Chinese origin, and was first 
 imported into England about eighteen years ago. 
 
 The Monthly Freeman for March, 1891, says: — "The 
 Pekin duck was brought from China to this country and the 
 United States of America by Captain J. E. Palmer, in the 
 year 1874. The large size, colour, and splendid appearance 
 of these birds caused a great demand for them. Their 
 marvellous egg production, and adaptation for fattening, 
 was the talk of the fanciers, but in a few years they reduced 
 in size and egg production, and also became in many cases 
 unfertile. This was caused by continuous incestuous breed- 
 ing. Captain Palmer made a second importation. These 
 were brought from Pekin to the coast by Major Ashley, and 
 put on board the vessel. Fresh blood brought back their 
 original vigour, and the Pekins once more regained their 
 original standing and popularity." 
 
 The monthly refers to the remote past in the following 
 words : — " The Pekin duck, like the Cochin, is possibly the 
 product of several thousand years' culture. This is shown 
 by the size and form, and almost rudimentary wings. The 
 widest or furthest departure from the wild Mallard At 
 one time it appeared as if it would take the place of all 
 others, but the rage for Pekins did not last very long. 
 Although it looks immense in frame, it is very deceptive in 
 weight, as it is not predisposed to excessive fat. Immense 
 looking specimens will seldom weigh more than seven or 
 eight pounds each." 
 
 One authority on the Pekin duck says : — " The flesh, being 
 rather dry, does not compare well with the flavour of the 
 Aylesbury or Rouen's," whilst Mr. Lewis Wright says : — 
 "The flesh is delicate and free from grossness"; and 1 quite 
 agree with Mr. Wright. 
 
38 MODERN PEKIN DUCKS. 
 
 The general characteristics of the Pekin are peculiar to 
 itself, the carriage being most striking of all. It is almost 
 upright in appearance, resembling as near as possible that 
 of a small, wide boat standing on its stern, the bow leaning 
 slightly forward. The head is large and carried well for- 
 ward. The bill should be short, straight, and thick, and of 
 a bright orange colour. The neck should be thick and long, 
 and when furnished with a nice mane or frill on the top, it 
 adds greatly to its beauty. The body should be as long, 
 broad, and deep as possible. 
 
 Opinions differ as to keel, but my own idea is with those 
 in favour of it, for, as with other varieties of ducks, depth 
 of keel denotes depth of breast bone, ou which is carried 
 the most valuable flesh ; and whether keel is the correct 
 type or otherwice, it will be found useful. I find by careful 
 observation that the birds with this particular point most 
 developed are the birds which have won the principal honours 
 at the majority of our best exhibitions during the last few 
 years. At the same time, excess of keel should be guarded 
 against. 
 
 The legs and feet are of a bright orange colour, and are 
 set well back, causing the bird to carry its body in a very 
 erect position, almost like that of the Penguin. This erect 
 carriage is much admired by judges and fanciers, and is 
 sometimes termed style, without which there would not be 
 much chance of winning a prize now-a-days at any of our 
 large shows, for, as a rule, this variety comes up in great 
 force when proper classification is provided for them. 
 
 Pekins are non-sitters and good layers. They are also 
 good table birds, putting on flesh and maturing at an early 
 age; but, unlike the Aylesburys or Rouens, they cannot 
 bear confinement. They are very lively and rather wild in 
 their habits, and seem to thrive best when at perfect liberty. 
 
 They are difficult to fatten in confinement when pure 
 bred, but when crossed with some other variety the produce 
 grow amazingly, and may be got ready for market quite as 
 early as the pure Aylesbury, and under some circumstances 
 would be more profitable. 
 
 They are, undoubtedly, a valuable variety, and have justly 
 gained popularity by their beauty and economic qualities, 
 
Pair of Modern Fekics. The Drake winner of first and cup al. the Crystal 
 Palace; first, cup, and challenge cup, Liverpool. Duck winner of first, 
 Cryftal Palace ; first and special Liverpool ; first and special, Gladstonbury, 
 and many other prizes. The property of Mr. Frederick Davis, WooUashill, 
 Pershore. 
 
40 
 
 MODEHit i'EKlN BUCKS. 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING 
 PEKIN DUCKS. 
 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 GENERAL CHiEACTEEISTICS OP THE PEKIN. 
 
 Head and 
 Eye. 
 
 BiU. 
 
 Neck. 
 Body. 
 
 TaU. 
 
 Size. 
 
 General appearance of head, large ; skull, broad 
 and high ; cheeks, heavy ; throat, slightly 
 gulleted ; eye, dark, and partially shaded by 
 heavy eyebrows, and bulky cheeks. ... 
 
 Short, broad and thick, slightly curved, but 
 not dished, bright orange colour, and free 
 from black marks or spots 
 
 Long and thick, carried well forward in a 
 graceful arch or curve. 
 
 General appearance of the body, that of a small, 
 wide boat standing almost on its stern, and 
 the bow leaning slightly forward. Breast: 
 broad and full, followed in underline by the 
 keel, which should increase in depth between 
 the legs to a broad, deep paunch and stem, 
 carried only just clear of the ground. 
 
 The taU should rise abruptly from the stern, 
 the quilled feathers ourviog upwards towards 
 the neck, with an immense growth of 
 plumage on the rump, almost covering the 
 quills of the tail. The drake should have 
 two or three handsomely-curled feathers on 
 the top ; 
 
 As large as possible. A well-matured drake 
 will weigh 8 to 9 lbs., and a duck 7 to 8 lbs. 
 Any excess on these weights should be allowed 
 for as being of extraordinary merit. 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 Points 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
MODERN PEKIN DU0E8. 
 
 41 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING PEKIN DUCKS— continued. 
 
 Leg;s and 
 Feet. 
 
 Plumage. 
 
 Carriage 
 
 and 
 Symmetxy. 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 Legs and feet should be strong and stout in 
 proportion to the size of the bird, set far 
 back, causing very erect carriage, and be of 
 a bright orange colour 
 
 The plumage must be a sound, uniform buif- 
 canary, or deep cream-colour throughout. It 
 should also be much more abundant in this 
 than in any other variety of ducks. An 
 arched mane on the neck adds greatly to the 
 beauty and character of a Pekin. The thighs 
 and flnff should be well furnished with an 
 abundance of long soft downy feathers. 
 
 Head: short and thick, carried well forward 
 on a long, thick, handsomely-curved neck. 
 Body : long and deep. Shoulders and back : 
 broad. Breast: very prominent, keel com- 
 mencing at breast and increasing in depth to 
 paunch, which rises up to a high-carried and 
 weU-spread taU. Legs and feet : set weU 
 back, compelling the bird to carry its body 
 erect, and in a style peculiar to this variety . 
 
 Health and General appearance: very lively. Byes: bright 
 
 Condition. 
 
 and clear. Plumage : bright and glossy, and 
 one even colour bom. head to tail. Beak, 
 legs, and feet, clean and bright in colour. ... 
 
 Total number of points 
 
 Points 
 55 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 Disqualifications. — Crooked back, wry tail, or any other 
 deformity ; white plumage ; black marks or spots on the bill ; or so 
 heavy behind that in the opinion of the Judge they cannot breed. 
 
mm 
 
 I 
 
 • l\ 
 
43 
 
 THE CAYUGA DUCK. 
 
 This handsome and useful variety of waterfowl has, during 
 the last few years, gained much favour, as was visible at the 
 late Liverpool show, the classes being well filled with birds 
 of great merit, the really marvellous improvement of this 
 variety being very striking ; and there is no doubt that 
 "the large black duck of North America" is gradually 
 becoming more popular. The beauty of their lustrous 
 green-black plumage, the great weight to which they attain 
 at an early age, along with their, undoubted economical 
 qualities, their hardihood and prolific laying propensities, are 
 sufficient to recommend them ; and not only as a fancy duck, 
 but also as a bird of intrinsic commercial value. It will 
 thrive and keep itself in first-class exhibition form on any 
 soil and in almost any kind of water. It is equally well 
 adapted for exhibition or market purposes, and I have the 
 greatest confidence in recommending the Cayuga both as an 
 ornamental and useful variety of duck. 
 
 A large breed of " black ducks " has been known in 
 England since the beginning of the present century, but 
 opinions differ as to their origin ; however, it is a matter of 
 perfect indifference to me whether they were in the first 
 place cultivated and made into a sub-variety in England, or 
 whether they were first established on the banks or on the 
 lake Cayuga, from whence they take their title. 
 
 There is no doubt they have a common origin with our 
 other large domesticated ducks. 
 
 The marked improvement in the Cayugas, both as regards 
 size and colour, is so great, that I have every reason to 
 be well satisfied with them, and there is no denying the 
 fact that they can be kept in perfect health and condition 
 under circumstances which would prove fatal to either 
 Aylesburys or Pekins. In shape they are becoming more 
 like that of a first-class Rouen or Aylesbmy. Specimens 
 
44 THE CAYUGA DUCE. 
 
 may now occasionally be seen^with long straight heads and 
 beaks, long necks and bodies, and deep breasts, and keels 
 may also be found in some of the best specimens. 
 
 Now, with reference to breeding Cayugas, I believe there 
 is still a very great improvement to be made in this variety, 
 and as size is a very important point, and one which will 
 always have my consideration in preference to " green 
 sheen," therefore, I would advise breeders to try one or 
 two experiments, namely, cross your Cayugas with the 
 Rouens, Pekins, or Aylesburys. 
 
 If the experiment is made with the former, you may 
 naturally come to the conclusion that the brown colour will 
 take more breeding out, being most closely allied to the 
 original parent stock, the Mallard. If you use the Pekin, 
 the carriage will be the most difficult thing to contend 
 with. If you use a good Aylesbury duck and a Cayuga 
 drake you will find the result very satisfactory, for, as a 
 rule, the ducklings would be either black or white, and 
 would remain so until the second moult, which would of 
 course be in their second year, when the black ones would 
 throw a certain percentage of white feathers, perhaps a few 
 more than they do now, in which case the selection of 
 the next year's breeding stock should be carefully and 
 judiciously made. All the white ones should be killed 
 and marketed as soon as they are fit; also all those 
 which throw too many white feathers during their second 
 moult. 
 
 Pure-bred Cayuga ducks often show white feathers on 
 their breasts and other parts of their bodies during the 
 second or third moult. This does not always point to 
 impurity of blood. I have known stock birds showing 
 many white feathers on the breast and on other parts of 
 their bodies whose progeny were all perfectly black during 
 the first year, but during their second moult ihiy also 
 showed white feathers. 
 
 I do not think the Cayuga can be improved by in- 
 breeding, neither do I think the East Indian would be 
 of any service for this purpose, for they are too small. 
 
THE CAYUGA DUOK. 45 
 
 The Cayuga duck has undoubtedly been crossed with 
 both the East Indian and the Rouens. The former impart- 
 ing the most beautiful green-black plumage, but at the 
 sacrifice of size. On the other hand, the Rouens certainly 
 improve the size of the Cayuga, but the affinity for the 
 colour of the Mallard is so great, that it would take 
 years to breed it out again. 
 
 I noticed several of the largest specimens at the late 
 Liverpool show with brown pencilling on the breast and 
 throat. 
 
 I have no hesitation in saying that white could be 
 bred out in less than half the time it would take to 
 breed out the brown, so great is the tendency to revert 
 to the original parent stock. 
 
 The above experiments may appear troublesome to some 
 fanciers, causing, as they undoubtedly do, many sports, 
 and apparently freaks of nature, but in my opinion, such 
 experiments, when carried out in a judicious manner, are 
 the correct way to improve this useful variety of ducks. 
 While if inbreeding or crossing with a more diminutive 
 breed were indulged in for the sake of colour, we should 
 eventually ruin the excellent qualities of the Cayuga. 
 Therefore, let me advise breeders of this variety not to 
 cross with the East Indians, and if you try experiments 
 with any other variety, kill ofE all birds which are not of 
 the stamp or colour you desire. 
 
 The ducklings produced by such experiments would be 
 of first-class quality for the table. They would mature 
 early and attain to a good size. The skin and flesh 
 would be white, very fine in texture, and rich in flavour. 
 I have seen Cayugas weighing 15 lbs. the pair at six 
 months old, but they were exceptionally fine birds. They 
 are naturally very quiet in their habits, and seem to do 
 well under almost any circiimstanoes. I would strongly 
 recommend them to gentlemen who have accommodation 
 for a few ducks. 
 
 The flesh is quite equal, if not superior in flavour, to 
 any other variety of domesticated waterfowl. 
 
46 
 
 THE CAYUGA DUCK. 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING CAYUGA 
 DUCKS. 
 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS OP THE CAYUGAS. 
 
 Head and 
 Eye. 
 
 Colour of 
 Bill. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Body. 
 
 TaU. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Legs and 
 Feet. 
 
 General appearance of the head : large, and of 
 a lustrons green colonr, with long, wide, flat 
 beak, well set in a straight line from the tip 
 of the eye, which is full and black 
 
 A slaty-black, with a dense black saddle in the 
 centre, but not touching the sides nor coming 
 within one inch of the end. The teau black. 
 
 Long and tapering, carried in a graceful curve. 
 Colour: a bright lustrons green 
 
 Long, broad and deep, breast prominent. The 
 keel coming well forward to breast, which 
 forms a straight underline from stem to stern. 
 Colonr throughout, a bright metallic black 
 with as much green lustre as is possible to 
 get. The wings naturally are more lustrous 
 than the rest of the body plumage ... 
 
 Carried well out and closely folded, and in the 
 drake's two or three curled feathers in the 
 centre 
 
 As large as possible. A well matured drake 
 should weigh 7 to 8 lbs. and a duck 6 to 7 lbs. 
 Any excess on these weights should be 
 allowed for as of extraordinary merit 
 
 Large and strong in bone, placed midway in 
 the body, giving the bird a similar carriage 
 to that of the Bouen. Colour: a dull orange- 
 brown 
 
 Carried forward ... 
 
 Points 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 55 
 
THE CAYUGA DOCK. 
 SCHEDULE FOK JUDGING CAYUGA DUCKS. 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Plumage. 
 
 Symmetry. 
 
 Health and 
 Condition. 
 
 Bronght forward 
 
 The plnmage should be a Instrons green 
 throughout, and as free from purple or white 
 as possible. The whole of the back and upper 
 part of the wings, the breast, and under parts 
 of the body being deep black; brown or 
 purple being objectionable, although not a 
 disqualification ... 
 
 Large head well carried on a long curved neck. 
 Great length of body ; broad and square ; 
 deep in keel ; clear of the ground from breast 
 to paunch. Shoulders broad ; baok long ; 
 tail carried well out ; legs and feet well set 
 so as to balance the body in a straight line... 
 
 General appearance very lively. Eyes bright 
 and clear. Plnmage bright and glossy 
 throughout, with as much green lustrous 
 bloom on as possible. Beak, legs and feet, 
 clean and bright in colour 
 
 Total number of Points ... 
 
 Folnta 
 55 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 100 
 
 DiSQUAiirpicATiONS —Crooked back, wry tail, or any other 
 deformity. Red or white feathers amongst the black plnmage. 
 BUI : orange or dished. 
 

 
 43 _f 
 
 o ^ 
 
 Erf I, 
 
 CD P 
 
 P3 
 
49 
 
 THE INDIAN RUNNER. 
 
 Without in the slightest degree wishing to be dis- 
 respectful towards or desiring to cast doubt on the 
 apparently irreproachable authenticity or hona-fides of any 
 opinions expressed hitherto regarding the introduction into 
 the British Isles of the feathered genus " Indian Runner," I 
 humbly submit that the date, circumstances, and history 
 of the debut of the birds, so far as this country is concerned, 
 is more or less a matter of uncertainty and speculation. 
 Obviously if their title affords any guide as to the land of 
 their nativity, — and it is reasonable at least to rely on the 
 derivation of their distinctive title for the purpose of tracing 
 and fixing their origin, — to India must inevitably belong 
 the distinction of being the birth-place of the original type. 
 Admitting then that the " Indian Runifcrs " are a species, 
 which first saw the light of day in India, the question which 
 suggests itself is "how did they get into this country?" 
 
 In an able and comprehensive treatise on the breed, 
 Mr. J. Donald, of Wigton, Cumberland, fixes the date of 
 their introduction into this country as some 50 years back, 
 and explains the circumstances surrounding it in the 
 following sentence: — "A drake and trio of ducks were 
 originally brought from ludin, by a sea captain to White- 
 haven, and presented them to some friends, who at that 
 time followed the occupation of farming in West Cumber- 
 land." Mr. Donald also states that " another consignment 
 was imported by the same gentleman some years later, and 
 from these two importations it is probable that all the 
 present day ' Runner ' ducks are either directly or in- 
 directly descended." 
 
 During recent years Miss Wilson - Wilson, of Kendal, 
 myself, and others have made special efforts to trace the 
 5 
 
50 THE INDIAN EDNNEB. 
 
 origin of this variety, and, if possible, to import fresh birds 
 of the original stock I am, however, sorry to say that all 
 efforts in this direction have proved futile. After all, how- 
 ever, as a matter of plain and simple fact, the all important 
 point, and certaicly the one with which I and others of the 
 "Fancying persuasion" are more directly and intimately 
 concerned, is not the subject of origin, but the retaining of 
 the pure type and character of an honest conception of the 
 original " Indian Kunner." Hence, for the nonce, I shall 
 leave the vexed question of origin and proceed to the 
 consideration of how we breeders can turn the " Indian 
 Eunners " to best account both for exhibition and other 
 purposes. 
 
 Until very recent time the variety had, for an unbroken 
 period of upwards of fifteen years, been lying in a compari- 
 tively dormant state, that is to say, as a " fancy " or 
 exhibition bird. The "Eunner" had up to then been 
 obliged to compete in the " Any other variety '' classes, at 
 all exhibitions where it entered the lists. No serious 
 organized attemjjt was made to popularise the species until 
 the end of the year 1895, Before that there had been 
 attempts on the part of individuals to place the " Eunner" 
 as a definite species on a sounder and more popular basis, 
 but all these endeavours had not served to give it that 
 attractiveness and popularity, which its more sanguine 
 supporters believed it deserved. 
 
 Towards the close of the year mentioned. Miss 
 Wilson-Wilson, at the Dairy Show, sought my opinion as to 
 the advisability or otherwise of making a joint endeavour 
 to raise the "Eunner" in the estimation of the "fancy." 
 Needless to say, I advised my "cosy coop" friend to become 
 a member of the Waterfowl Club, in the belief that that 
 influential and well-iiitormed body might bo able to 
 assist in drawing up a "Standard of Perfection'' for the 
 "Eunner" species, and also in procuring the much-desired 
 classification for it at all exhibitions where waterfowl are 
 shown. The credit for the first class of any importance 
 for "Indian Eunner" ducks which has been provided at 
 any leading shows for many years belongs entirely to the 
 
THE INDIAN RUN'XKH. 51 
 
 lady named, for it was mainly through her instrumentality 
 and generosity that twenty-one pairs of "Runners" were 
 drawn together in November, 1896, at Kendal This latter 
 circuraitance has undoubtedly been the chief factor towards 
 inti'oducing several recruits to the Waterfowl Chib, and also 
 the means of having caused to be framed an official " Stand- 
 ard of Perfection " for the guidance of fanciers and judges. 
 
 That this " Standard " is appreciated is abundantly 
 attested by judges and fanciers alike, the former regarding 
 it as a reliable guide at all times, and the latter finding in 
 it much to aid and instruct them in the "selection," foster- 
 ing and developing of this particular fancy. 
 
 I have deemed it wise to reproduce at the end of my 
 present article a copy of this Standard. As will readily be 
 understood and conceded, the Standard embodies the 
 results of innumerable enquiries and many years' practical 
 experience. The circumstance of my having adopted it as 
 an appendix to this work readers it both unnecessary and 
 superfluous for me now to enter at any length into the 
 characteristics, etc., of the "Runner." 
 
 A few words on the chief properties of the birds may not 
 however be out of place. Not only do the "Runners" surpass 
 all other known species of ducks as egg producers, but 
 they are highly esteemed as ornamental waterfowl. Perfect 
 specimens are truly beautiful, but, by no means plentiful 
 or easy to breed. Ou this, if ou no other, they commend 
 themselves to the faucier having a desire to make his 
 hobby interesting as well as remunerative. 
 
 To the remarkable capacity of the " Runners " for egg- 
 laying may, in large measure, be attributed to the charm 
 they possess for the small section of duck fanciers who 
 have affected their cultivation hitherto. Experience shows 
 that their season of laying begins earlier and lasts longer 
 than that of other ducks. They stand in this respect in 
 the same relation to waterfowl as Hamburghs have done 
 to poultry. 
 
52 THE INDIAN RUNNER. 
 
 No claim is made for the species on the ground of their 
 fitness for marketable purposes, inasmuch as the smallness 
 of their bodies and their active habits render them, 
 generally speaking, unprofitable for the table. Although 
 I have observed that " generally speaking " they are not 
 a profitable line to rear and cultivate for the market, I 
 must, however, admit that when young, for those who can 
 aiford to breed them for table purposes, they are a choice 
 delicacy, their flesh being finer in texture and richer in 
 flavour than that of most other ducks. 
 
 We cannot expect any one breed to possess both 
 unusual laying and table qualities. Breeders of cattle 
 select their stock for the iiroduction of milk in one case 
 and of flesh in another, but they do not look for the 
 perfection of both qualities in one animal. The same 
 principle holds good with the breeding of ducks of all 
 sorts. Breeders must choose those strains respectively 
 in which the distinctive feature striven for predominates. 
 In one strain the food is assimilated for the production 
 of eggs, and in another for the putting on of flesh. 
 
 The fact of the " Runner " having recently found its 
 way into the yards of fanciers may or may not add to its 
 value as a purely useful duck, but it will most certainly 
 have a decided tendency, and that a wholesome one, to 
 retain for us as well as posterity what is conceived to 
 have been the distinguishing characteristics of the original 
 type of the breed. 
 
 " Indian Runner " drakes have from time to time been 
 crossed with ducks of other breeds, evidence of which is 
 frequently found, amongst other things, in the colour of 
 the plumage and the hue and formation of the bills. 
 
 The '-Runners" are, as already conveyed, most active in 
 their habits, capital foragers, and on a good run are able 
 to find three-fouiihs of their own sustenance. 
 
 It is only on rare occasions they evince a desire to sit, 
 and when they do so it is not wise to trust them with 
 eggs, for they cannot be relied upon for successful 
 incubation. 
 
THE INDIAN RUNNER. 
 
 53 
 
 When j'oung they are in no sense tender birds to rear, 
 in fact, the ordinary attention bestowed on ducklings of 
 other breeds suffices to bring them to a sound maturity. 
 
 Reference to my illustration and the " Standard of 
 Perfection " which follows will, 1 hope, enable my readers 
 to make proper selection either for breeding or exhibition 
 purposes. 
 
 Colour and markings being almost identically the same, 
 — in both drakes and ducks, — renders it unnecessary to 
 keep two pens of stock birds, this, fact being a gi'eat 
 advantage to the fancier whose space is limited. 
 
54 
 
 THE INDIAN KUNNEK. 
 
 STANDARD FOR INDIAN RUNNER 
 DUCKS. 
 
 (Ab approved by the Waterfowl Club ,) 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 Head, 
 
 Shape of 
 
 Eyes and 
 
 Bill. 
 
 Head 
 Markings. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Body. 
 Legs. 
 
 GBNEEAL CHAKACTBRISTIC3. 
 
 Fine and comparatively flat, with the eyes sit- 
 uate high up. Bill strong at the base, broad 
 and long, coming as near as possible straight 
 down from the skull , giving it the appearance 
 of a long wedge. The colour of the bill when 
 young is yelloH', but as the birds grow a 
 g reen line begins to develop at the base of 
 the beak, and this is frequently accompanied 
 by green spots, which gradually increase in 
 number and size, until by the time the birds 
 are a year old the whole surface of the man- 
 dible is entirely green ; a black bean on the 
 tip is preferable 
 
 The head should be adorned with a cap and 
 cheek markings, as near the same colour of 
 the body as possible, a narrow white line 
 should divide the cap from the cheek marks, 
 and a line of white about s of an inch should 
 divide the base of the bill from the head 
 markings 
 
 As long and thin as possible, perfectly white 
 from the head to where the breast marking 
 begins, which should be about H to 2 inches 
 from the base of the neck 
 
 Long, narrow, and racy looking, without the 
 slightest indication of keel 
 
 The legs are a deep bright yellow colour, set well 
 back, compelling the bird to carry its body 
 erect something like the form of a penguin . 
 
 Points 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 60 
 
THE INDIAN RtJNNEB. 
 
 55 
 
 STANDARD FOR INDIAN EtJNNER DUCKS- 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Body 
 Markings. 
 
 Symmetry 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 Whatever colour an Indian Runner may be, that 
 colour should be uniform throughout the 
 whole of its surface plumage, except the tail 
 of the drake, which is darker. The breast 
 shonld be evenly cut about half way between 
 the point of the breast bone and the legs. 
 The shoulders, top part of wings, and tail 
 should be of the same colour as the breast, 
 and should be the shape of a heart pressed 
 flat on the back. Flights and fluff, white, 
 except an indistinct line of colour which runs 
 from the base of the tail to the thighs . . 
 
 Greneral appearance, carriage and condition . 
 
 Total number of points 
 
 Points 
 50 
 
 25 
 25 
 
 100 
 
 Colours preferred. Fawns and Greys. Weights not to exceed 
 5 lbs. in either sex; a fair average weight for drakes is ii to 4| lbs., 
 and for ducks i lbs. 30 inches is considered a fair good length for 
 a drake not exceeding 5 lbs., whilst 25 inches is considered a good 
 length for a duck not exceeding i lbs ; any excess on these lengths 
 in birds not exceeding the above weights should be allowed for as 
 extraordinary merit. 
 
 It is the nature of the true Indian Runner duck to run 
 without waddling, like most breeds of ducks, but unfortunately, 
 this distinguishing characteristic cannot be seen in the Show pen, 
 for it is only observable when the ducks are at liberty. 
 
 DISQUAIIPICATIONS. — Blue ribbon wing bars, claret breasts, 
 horizontal shape or carriage, absence of feathers from the flights, 
 secondary flights, or any other part of the body; slipped wings, wry 
 tail, or any other deformity. 
 
66 
 
 BREEDING AND TREATMENT OF 
 BREEDING STOCK. 
 
 If 4ue regard has been paid to the " selection of stock," 
 Laving paid sufficient attention to the variety to be 
 kept, and also the object to be attained, breeding will be 
 found a very important part of tlie business ; in fact, the 
 part which will bring the "grist to the mill," if carried 
 out in a proper manner. 
 
 In order to make ducks pay a good return it is absolutely 
 necessary to fix upon the object to be attained. There 
 is not a shadow of a doubt that breeding exhibition ducks 
 and geese has been very profitable to many farmers (whose 
 names I could give. ) Neither is there any doubt that as 
 they are reared in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire for 
 the London market, that they can be and are annually 
 produced most profitably. 
 
 If the breeding and rearing of ducks and geese were 
 better understood and developed into a systematic industry, 
 there is not the slightest doubt in ray raind that their 
 culture could be made the means by which substantial 
 profits could be made. Ducklings for market should be 
 bred as early as possible. They should be raised under 
 the most favourable conditions to ensure rapid growth 
 and early maturity, and they should be killed when the 
 food that has been given to them has produced the best 
 results. Before they begin to cast their first feathers they 
 should be marketed or sold to private customers at the 
 season when the demand is greatest, and consequently 
 the prices highest. 
 
 In order to be able to get eggs to produce early duck- 
 lings, it is necessary that your breeding stock should be 
 young, healthy, vigorous, medium -sized birds. They should 
 always have perfect liberty, and should not be exhibited 
 at all. If you disturb your breeding stock by sending 
 them to shows, you will certainly have to wait weeks 
 
BRICKDING AN1> TREATMENT OP BRKEDINO STOCK. 57 
 
 louger for your eggs for sitting. Therefore I would advise 
 all breeders to let their stook birds stay at home. Do not 
 on any account send your breeding ducks unaccompanied 
 to shows. If you will allow them to remain at home 
 their progeny will not only be stronger but more numerous. 
 If you send them long distances and friendless to exhibi- 
 tions your chances of winning are only very small, for when 
 they arrive at the show they are at the tender mercies 
 of the committee, who will very often forbid water or 
 food being supplied until after judging. 
 
 I have often complained aloud in reference to this matter, 
 and in one or two cases I have been the means of food 
 and water being supplied before judging. 
 
 When waterfowl are sent to shows, and subjected to the 
 usual treatment, their constitutions are to some extent 
 impaired, nud many really first-class stock birds have been 
 reduced to absolute sterility by being over-shown. They 
 have been returned home with empty honours, their whole 
 system broken down by a desire for fame which was 
 almost impossible for your otherwise first-class breeders to 
 obtain, and they have been ruined and made worthless for 
 the purpose for which you bought them. 
 
 In these days of keen competition the exhibition bird is 
 one thing, but the best stock birds, for producing these 
 monsters quite another. If you wish to breed ducks and 
 geese for exhibition, and you have a desire to surpass all 
 others in the show pen, do not be in a hui-ry to hatch 
 very early birds. 
 
 I find that ducks and geese hatched in April or May 
 grow very fast and make plenty of bone in a very short 
 time, and these are the birds which eventually make the 
 monsters by the time of the Crystal Palace Show. They 
 have all the warm weather to grow in, and their nature 
 appears to take advantage of it. 
 
 Personally, I have always been most successful with 
 birds hatched in May. If your stook birds are laying a 
 satisfactory number of well-formed and properly shaped 
 eggs, let well alone, but if they are only laying indifferently 
 or if the eggs are irregular in shape, appearing rough or 
 
58 BBKEDING AND TREATMENT OP BEEISDING STOCK. 
 
 thin in shell, or, as is sometimes the case, without shell 
 altogether, or should they lay double-yolked eggs, or pro- 
 duce two eggs in one day, or be found guilty of other 
 irregularities, then you may be sure there is a reason for 
 such irregularities, and try to discover it. 
 
 Now, as a rule, most, if not the whole, of these freaks 
 point to one common fault, and that is feeding your breed- 
 ing stock too liberally on stimulating or improper food. 
 Should you be troubled by any of the above annoyances 
 just take the trouble to see if you cannot find out the 
 reason why. If you succeed in finding out the reason 
 for the defects, remove the cause, and the disease will 
 disappear. 
 
 In nine cases out often you will find that your breeding 
 stock have been living too well, in which case all stimu- 
 lating foods should be discontinued, and only the very 
 plainest kinds ot food given to them, especially when your 
 breeders have a good run on grass land. It is very im- 
 portant that your stock birds should be supplied with an 
 abundance of shell-making material, such as lime, chalk, 
 shells of different sorts, ashes, old mortar, rubbish and 
 gravel. All these should be supplied to waterfowl regu- 
 larly, but more especially during the breeding season. 
 
 Having procured a really good breeding pen of ducks 
 from one or two reliable breeders, and which are about 
 or a little over the average size, put them on the run on 
 which you intend they should remain until you have got 
 all the eggs they will lay. Waterfowl should not be 
 removed from one run to another during the breeding 
 season, for when they are disturbed they frequently 
 cease laying for a time Therefore, in order to get the 
 best results attainable, it is requisite to give your stock 
 birds undisturbed peace at home. 
 
 Individual ducks of one family vary considerably iu 
 their prolificness, and I have owned birds which have not 
 laid more than thirty eggs in a season; whilst others of 
 the self-same family have laid 150 in a season. I find 
 the average number of eggs laid by birds of one and 
 two years old is about GO per duck. 
 
15UEKDIN& AND TUKA'i'MBNT OF irRKKUINU STOCIK 69 
 
 Darwin says: — " The wild diiok lays from five to ten 
 eggs ; the tame one, in the course of the year, from 80 to 
 100." But if ducks liavo not been harassed by being 
 exhibited, the average number of eggs will be much 
 higher. 
 
 Stock ducks should always be shut up in their house 
 at night, but they should have liberty until it is almost 
 dark, for it is in the evening tliat worms, etc., come to the 
 surface of the ground, and are at once consumed by the 
 ducks. I am sure 1 need not tell anyone acquainted with 
 the habits of ducks how greedy they are when on their 
 evening rambles in search of animal food. I have seen my 
 stock birds come home at dusk soarcel3' able to waddle and 
 refuse the very best of corn if offered to them. 
 
 Stock ducks on good grass runs require very little hand 
 feeding, but as it is necessary to keep them shut up until 
 about eight o'clock in the morning, they should be supplied 
 with a fair good breakfast of soft fooJ. They may be tried 
 with a handful of oats, wheat, or barley in the evening. In 
 many cases this will not be required — that is when they 
 have an unlimited grass run. 
 
 There are several reasons why stock ducks should be 
 hovised at night; and, first, it is protection from foxes and 
 other enemies of the poultry yard ; secondly, because they 
 glory in stealing away and selecting their nests in any out- 
 of-the-way or secluded corner ; and when allowed perfect 
 liberty, as many farmers' ducks are, they will often drop 
 their eggs into the water, when they sink, and nothing is 
 known of their presence until perhaps some weeks after- 
 wards, when having become rotten they rise to the surface. 
 Thus scores of duck eggs are lost yearly by careless farmers, 
 who think it is too much trouble to shut their ducks up for 
 the night. 
 
 It should also be borne in mind that stock ducks should 
 be provided with a good bed of clean, dry straw, for they 
 often drop their eggs at random all over the place, very 
 often ignoring all nest accommodation which may have 
 been provided for them. The bedding should be removed 
 and shaken out daily, and the house swept out. A good 
 swill with water now and again will do the house good. 
 
60 BREEDING AND TBBATMKNT OF BREEDING STOCK 
 
 Tlie best material for bedding is decidedly straw, and when 
 it can be procured at a reasonable price I would certainly 
 advise its use. I prefer wheat straw, but barley, rye, or oat 
 straw will answer the purpose. 
 
 When straw cannot be obtained, some other kind of 
 sweet dry litter should be used, such as bean or pea straw, 
 coarse hay, bracken, rushes, or dry leaves, anything which 
 would necessitate a regular cleaning out would be preferred 
 to peat-moss litter. I have tried it for waterfowl, and my 
 opinion of its use is decidedly against it, for in consequence 
 of its being absorbent, it looks cleaner than it really is. It 
 has also a tendency to encourage laziness, and I am sure no 
 poultry man or boy would like to be accused of such a 
 fault. Therefore, avoid peat-moss litter for ducks. 
 
 If you wish your waterfowl to keep in good health 
 and condition, sawdust or wood-turnings, or, as they are 
 sometimes called " chippings," are very cheap, and much 
 preferable to jDeat-moss, for you can see when they are 
 dirty. 
 
 Filthiness in houses is the chief cause of many contagious 
 and deadly diseases, and the use of all material calculated 
 to harbour filth should be carefully avoided. It does not 
 follow that fresh bedding is required every day. simply 
 because I advise its daily removal. If the weather is fine 
 throw the straw into the open air to dry. After a while 
 give it a good shake, and it is then in a fit condition to be 
 returned to the house for bedding. 
 
 If the manure and the soiled bedding from waterfowl is 
 made into a tidy little stack, and allowed to eat and rot for 
 a month or two, it will make capital manm-e, and will grow 
 kitchen garden produce to an enormous size. 
 
 Stock ducks should always have access to water. It is 
 their natural element, and they look better when they are 
 allowed free access to it, not only this, but they lay 
 better and their eggs are more fertile. 
 
 I wouldjnot advise anyone to keep waterfowl unless they 
 can let them have a sufficient supply of fresh water for a 
 bath daily. A constant stream or a good pond beingprefer- 
 alde to most artificial arrangements. 
 
61 
 
 INCUBATION 
 
 This branch of the business requifes the greatest care 
 and attention on the part of the owner or breeder of 
 waterfowl. 
 
 If you wish to obtain the best prices for your ducklings, 
 you must put your first eggs down for incubation as soon 
 as ever your ducks begin to lay. I prefer large Brahmas, 
 Cochins, Dorkings, or cross-bred hens for this purpose, to 
 either ducks or incubators. During the winter and very 
 early spring I usually sit two hens on the same day, for 
 it frequently happens that the eggs are not fertile when 
 produced in very cold weather. 
 
 I never give more than nine duck eggs to one hen during 
 the first three months of the year; this number being 
 quite as many as any ordinary hen can comfortably cover 
 and keep thoroughly warm. I usually test the eggs when 
 they have been under the hen seven or eight days, and if 
 I find many clear, i.e., unfertile, I put all the fertile ones 
 under one hen, and procure another sitting hen, then re-set 
 the one which has been deprived of her eggs in con- 
 sequence of the examination ; by this means I am able to 
 continue sitting two hens weekly, by the purchase or hire 
 of one additional hen. I continue this process so long as 
 there is very severe weather, and I find the system 
 practically useful. 
 
 As the weather becomes warmer, the quantity of eggs 
 laid will be considerably increased, and with them fertility 
 greatly augmented. In consequence, sufficient sitting hens 
 may be difficult to procure. If so, an 'Incubator" may 
 be found not only useful but necessary. Although I 
 frankly admit that I prefer the use of hens to any incubator. 
 The •' Westmeria," which I am now using, is so easy to 
 work, and does that work in such an efficient manner, that 
 I have every confidence in recommending it. 
 
2 INOUBATION. 
 
 The moisture arrangements are, to my mind, perfect. 
 This, of course, forms a very important part in hatching 
 duck and goose eggs. 
 
 Again, let the eggs be fifty or one hundred in number, 
 they can be turned within a minute, and when the process 
 of turning has to be done daily this is a great consideration. 
 The temperature is kept at a certain point automatically, 
 and scarcely varies one degree. Some people may, perhaps, 
 look at the cost (others are obliged to do so) of an incu- 
 bator, but then it is not, like the clucking hen, to be 
 purchased afresh every year. 
 
 A fifty-egg incubator should form part of the stock-in- 
 trade of every breeder of waterfowl. They have certain 
 advantages over hens, for they will hatch thin-shelled eggs, 
 which the hens wovild certainly break. Should a sitting 
 hen fall sick or die on her nest, an incubator is r.lways 
 ready in case of such accidents. They are also very 
 valuable at the time of hatching. It sometimes happens 
 that a hen will crush an egg or two a little before the time 
 is up, and if there were no incubator at work, the gosling 
 or duckling would inevitably be lost, whereas, if you have 
 an incubator at work it is just the thing required, and is 
 able to hatch out those birds which would otherwise be lost. 
 
 The two "Westmerias" which I have now working 
 have paid their cost in nothing else than hatching birds out 
 of damaged shells. These machines are so well put 
 together, and so perfectly packed to withstand the effects 
 of tlie heat, that I think I should be quite safe in saying 
 that they will last me a considerable time. 
 
 An incubator is most useful for testing your first batches 
 of eggs, in order to prove their fertility, before wasting 
 the time of hens, or before selling eggs to customers. It 
 sometimes happens that some individual ganders and 
 drakes are absolutely sterile, and for that reason breeders 
 ought not to sell eggs from any particular pen of stock 
 ducks or geese until such breeders have proved the fertility 
 of their stock birds. 
 
ixrun.vTiON. 'kJ 
 
 When duck or goose eggs have been in an incubator or 
 under a hen for seven or eight days it is quite easy to 
 judge whether they are fertile or not. The simplest and 
 best way of testing the eggs is to take them out of the 
 machine, or from under the hen, light a gns jet or a candle 
 in a dark room, take the egg in yuur right hand, and with 
 yonr two forefingers and thumb hold the egg before the 
 light, taking hold of it by the small end. Then place 
 your left hand across the top of the thick end of the egg, 
 shading the light from your eyes. If the egg is fertile 
 you will be ablo to see a clear space at the thick end of 
 the egg, and the lower part will be quite dark. Should the 
 egg appear quite clear, and almost transparent, you may 
 depend it is unfertile, and that it would be onlj' a waste 
 of time to return it to the hen or incubator. 
 
 Nests intended for sitting hens with duck or goose eggs, 
 should, as far as possible, be made on tiie ground. The 
 earth should be hollowed out, not too deep, still it should 
 be made roomy enough to admit a good wisp of soft hay. 
 Hay is much preferable to straw for this purpose, it being 
 much warmer. My reason for advising the nest to be 
 made on the ground is, that duck and goose eggs require 
 more moisture during the time of incubation than other 
 kind of poultry eggs do. 
 
 If it is not convenient to make the nest on the ground, 
 a box may be used for the purpose, the bottom of which 
 should be well covered with grass sods or loose damp 
 earth. A large pailful is not too much for the purpose. 
 Two pailfuls would be preferable, taking care that all the 
 corners are well filled up with earth, and then made 
 comfortable with hay. 
 
 Eggs when under the process of incubation should not 
 be sprinkled with water. Scores, yes hundreds, of Viirds 
 have been killed in the shells by this thoughtless practice. 
 Nevertheless, moisture must be supplied to the nest or its 
 surroundings, for, in a state of nature, the sitting duck or 
 goose would leave her nest early m the morning, when her 
 plumage would become wttted by the rain or by the dew 
 
64 TNCnBATION. 
 
 which would be on the grass, or, perchance, she may have 
 taken a bath in the pond or stream. In any case her 
 plumage would be wet on her return to the nest, and, 
 further, the nest would doubtless be made oq the ground 
 in some nicely shaded situation. Therefore it will be seen 
 that the eggs of waterfowl in a state of nature are 
 damped daily by the natural incubator. 
 
 I find the best method of supplying moisture to eggs 
 when under hens, etc., is to take a garden wateringcan 
 with a rose on, and water all the surroundings of the nest, 
 and even the nest itself, v/ith water at about 100 degrees. 
 This should be done at night, when the hens are quietest. 
 Care should be taken not to disturb tliem, or you may find 
 a difficulty in getting them back to the eggs. By this 
 method moisture is supplied in proper quantities, and at 
 a proper temperature. The shell and inner membrane 
 gradually becomes more brittle, and the young ones are 
 able to extricate themselves from their prisons without 
 risk of losing their lives through inability to break through 
 their prison walls. 
 
 If there is sufficient moisture in the ground on wtiich 
 the nest is made, the heat of the hen's body will draw 
 moisture sufficient for all requirements. If the nest is 
 made as advised, the eggs may be carefully taken out of 
 the nest whilst the hen is ofi feeding, and tho nest well 
 watered as above, after which the eggs may be returned 
 to the nest. This method should be repeated three or 
 four times during the last fortnight of incubation. 
 
 Moisture is one of the most essential requisites for the 
 successful hatching of waterfowl. Hens should always be 
 sat at night. They seem to take to the eggs more readily 
 and quietly than when sat during the daytime. 
 
 It may appear strange to some of my readers that I 
 should write on the '' Hen" for incubation of ducks and 
 geese. As a rule, ducks and geese are not very good 
 sitters, and worse mothers, especially high-class birds. 
 
 My Aylesburys seldom evince a desire to sit, and if they 
 did, I could not aSord to allow them to do so, for I require 
 all the eggs I can possibly get from them. 
 
INCUBATION. 65 
 
 Toulouse geese are only very indifferent sitters and 
 mothers, so much so that I never risk valuable eggs under 
 them. 
 
 There is no doubt that habit has something to do with 
 this partially lost qualify, and if we fanciers wish to 
 develop any particular habit or point, we must encourage 
 our pets to develop the same; but if, on the other hand, 
 we do not wish our ducks and geese to indulge in their 
 natural propensity of incubation, and we annually deprive 
 thera of their maternal habit, we may come to the con- 
 clusion that ia course of time our birds will not only 
 become indifferent sitters and mothers, but that they will 
 eventually lose all desire for incubation, for the force of 
 habit is transmitted from one generation to another. I 
 have not the least doubt that some strains of ducks will 
 at no distant period lose all desire to sit. Do not be 
 afraid of sitting too many nests of duck eggs, for if you sit 
 all the eggs your three or even six ducks will lay, there 
 will be no danger of getting too many really first-class 
 ducks. 
 
 A " Topper " only comes occasionally. Therefore set 
 all your eggs, and you will find that there is no necessity 
 for a separate breeding pen in order to produce a large 
 number of ducklings for the market. If you set all the 
 eggs your good stock birds will produce, and the season is 
 at all favourable, you may naturally expect a good crop of 
 ducklings, which will, of course, require some care and 
 judgment bestowing on them ; but I will go fully into 
 the care and treatment of ducklings both for market and 
 exhibition in the next chapter. 
 
 The time required for incubation is twenty-eight days 
 for ducks and thirty days for geese, but different strains 
 or families vary considerably in this respect. I have fre- 
 quently known ducklings hatch on the twenty-sixth day, 
 whilst others have not appeared until the thirtieth day, 
 and I have also noticed similar variations in the time of 
 hatching goose eggs, some goslings appearing on the 
 twenty-eighth day of incubation, others taking as much as 
 four days longer. Consequently, it is well to be very 
 
 6 
 
66 INCUBATION. 
 
 careful during the time the young ones are hatching. As 
 a rule, it will be far better to leave the sitting hen alone 
 until all are hatched, further than to remove the shells or 
 any other objectionable matter there may be in the nests. 
 
 Some breeders remove the goslings or ducklings from 
 the nest as soon as they are hatched, and put them in old 
 hats, small baskets, etc., and then place them on the hearth 
 or kitchen fender, and when the whole are hatched place 
 them under the hen. Such practices and other unnecessary 
 interferences between the attendant and the sitting hen 
 are the causes of the death of hundreds of goslings and 
 ducklings annually. 
 
 It is very much better (at all risks) to leave the newly- 
 hatched birds under the hen, undisturbed, for at least 
 twenty-four hours after they are hatched. Nature has 
 provided for their sustenance for fully this time after tbey 
 emerge from the shell. Therefore, the less interference 
 between the attendant and the eifting hen the better will 
 it be for all concerned. 
 
67 
 
 BREEDING AND REARING DUCKLINGS 
 FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 Ducklings for exhibition should be treated in a very 
 diiferent manner to those for market purposes, and the treat- 
 ment must be varied according to the number kept. 
 
 Experience teaches me that it is much easier to rear a few 
 to a high standard of perfection than it would be to rear a 
 large number. Therefore, I maintain that the person who 
 keeps only one variety, concentrating his capital and energy 
 on that one variety, is better able to discover excellencies or 
 faults sooner than the person whose energies and capital are 
 divided into many diflerent sections. 
 
 When my ducklings are hatching, I always make it my 
 business to attend to them personally. I do not remove 
 the little creatures from their warm, cosy nest. I simply 
 remove the shells very carefully, without exciting the ben 
 if possible, and should any of the shells happen to be 
 fi-actiired in improper places, I remove all such and give them 
 a bath in warm water, and as I always keep a vacancy or two 
 in one of my " Incubators," I place any such fractured e<">-3 
 in it, thus often saving the lives of those which sometimes 
 turn out to be my most valuable ducklings. If I had no 
 incubator, I should give these fractured eggs a bath just the 
 same, and then wrap them up in a flannel which had been 
 dipped in hot water, then place the egg in the most 
 convenient place near the kitchen fire, keep it reasonably 
 warm, occasionally renewing the hot flannel, and when once 
 the duckling has quite cleared itself of the shell, I should 
 substitute a warm, dry flannel until the duckling had 
 regained its strength. I should then return it to the hen 
 for I am fully persuaded that the nest is the proper place, 
 and that the hen or duck whose task it has been to sit ou 
 the eggs for thirty days is the proper nurse for ducklings. 
 
68 BREEDING AND EEASING DUCKLINGS FOE EXHIBITION. 
 
 I do not believe in taking them from the hen, for I never 
 found either ducks or geese grow to an extraordinary size 
 which had been taken away from the hen at au early age. 
 
 Some writers tell us that ducklings do not require 
 brooding. This was astounding information to me, and 
 although it may be true that ducklings do not take quite 
 so much shelter under the hen as chickens do, it is also 
 true that they do require brooding. If the hen is taken 
 away from them at an early age they never grow very large, 
 and if a duckling once makes a stand, should droop, or 
 refuse its food for a few days, you may mark that bird off 
 as being of no use for exhibition, and as soon as ever it is 
 ready for the market, let it go. 
 
 Ducklings reared with a view to exhibition must grow 
 and do well until they are six months old, otherwise they 
 cannot compete successfully against those bred and reared 
 by experienced breeders. 
 
 Theory is all very well, but the kind of theory which I 
 have seen advocated recently, concerning the rearing of 
 ducklings, would, in my opinion, prove most disastrous, 
 especially for exhibition. 
 
 It is a well-known fact that all kinds of domestic ducks 
 have improved during the last few years, and I would like 
 to ask, whether this improvement has been brought about 
 by assisting nature or by going directly in opposition to 
 nature's rules and laws? If this improvement has been 
 brought about by those principles which are in opposition 
 to nature, how is it that these writers and breeders have 
 not been able to compete successfully with other breeders 
 and exhibitors who believe in attending nature's laws ? 
 
 I am strongly in favour of leaving ducklings with the heu 
 or duck that has hatched them. I find they are strono-er 
 and grow much faster than those which have been removed. 
 I would prefer half the number and have them well nursed 
 in this manner. 
 
 I never remove my ducklings trom the nest for at least 
 twelve hours after hatching, and if the whole lot hatched 
 evenly, that is, about the same time, I should let them 
 
BREEDING AND REARING DDCKLINOS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 69 
 
 remain in the nest for twenty-four hours. I should make 
 the nest as flat as possible around the edges, so that it a 
 duckling should come out it would be able to get back to 
 the hen without the risk of being starved to death. Of 
 course, I am aware that there are some hens which are very 
 excitable, and these creatures sometimes trample ou their 
 charge and kill them ; but such accidents as these are often 
 caused by the attendant, who, when he goes to the nest 
 to examine the eggs or the ducklings, receives a sharp peck 
 from the hen in defence of her brood. The attendant does 
 not use sufl&cient discretion, but frequently gets cross with 
 the hen, and sometimes uses her very roughly, increasing 
 the poor hen's excitement to such an extent, that when she 
 is put ou to her nest again, she tramples upon and kills 
 perhaps half of her brood. 
 
 If you wish to be successful in this particular part of 
 rearing ducklings you must be very patient, and on no 
 account go to look at a sitting hen after you have had a 
 family quarrel I 
 
 I will now suppose that your ducklings are all hatched, 
 thoroughly dry and well brooded, and that it is time they 
 were removed from the nest in which they were hatched, 
 for fear of vermin of various kinds might possibly have taken 
 up there quarters close by. 
 
 Remove hen and her ducklings to the place which has, of 
 course, been preparM for them; and first of all, feed the 
 hen with her usual food to her entire satisfaction. — After 
 feeding the hen, it will be quite soon enough to feed your 
 ducklings. I like a large smooth board to feed on best of 
 all ; I have used an old sack, or a piece of canvas for this 
 purpose. It is a matter of perfect indifference what it is, 
 so long as something is used to prevent waste of good food. 
 Throw your egg and bread-crumbs on to the board or sack, 
 and your ducklings will soon learn the art of converting one 
 kind of food into another. Continue the hard-boiled egg, 
 chopped and mixed with twice the bulk of stale bread- 
 crumbs. Feed about every two hours for the first week. 
 Let them have a shallow dish filled with water and a bit of 
 sharp grit put at the bottom. Green food of some kind 
 
70 BREEDING AND REARING DUCKLINGS FOll EXHIBITION. 
 
 should be supplied regularly. A good grass sod, 15 or 18 
 inches square, will be very much appreciated by your 
 ducklings, and the soil will assist digestion for the first 
 week or two, after which sharp grit must be supplied. 
 
 Almost any kind of greens grown in a garden will answer 
 the purpose. Lettuce is my favourite vegetable for 
 ducklings. I grow large quantities every year, sowing about 
 every three weeks. Malta and Coss make the largest plants. 
 The youngsters are very fond of it, and I have great faith 
 in it keeping them in health and condition. It gives a tone 
 to the system, and acts as a tonic. Savoys, cabbages, 
 onions, radish-tops, and even weeds will be devoured if your 
 ducklings are kept in confinement. All kinds of vegetables 
 should be chopped up fine with a knife or in a mincing 
 bowl, and supplied once or twice daily, and should be 
 continued until you are prepared to give your birds perfect 
 liberty. When your ducklings are a week old, you may 
 safely dispense with the egg and bread, and use some other 
 cheaper food, which should be a cooked preparation. I 
 know of no better food than "Spratts Patent Poultry Meal." 
 The birds eat it with avidity, and it seems to grow plenty 
 of bone, which is very essential for exhibition ducks. The 
 way I prepare this food is a little more trouble than some 
 people would care to take. Still I believe in the proverbial 
 saying, " That if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth 
 doing well." 
 
 Having procured a bit of coarse flesh meat of some kind 
 or other, or a few handfuls of "Prairie Meat Crissel," I 
 boil it in a saucepan or copper pan just as occasion may 
 require, and when thoroughly boiled, pour broth and meat 
 into the poultry meal, and only have sufficient meal to 
 leave the mess very moist. When thoroughly scalded, add 
 barley meal aud thirds, or ground wheat, and do not forget 
 a bit of salt and a little bone meal, sufficient to mix the 
 mess into a nice stiff, crumbly paste. 
 
 The food now being prepared is ready for service to your 
 ducklings, and as I am dealing with birds intended for 
 exhibition, I will endeavour to show my reason for feeding 
 on boards, sacks, or on the grass, in preference to feeding 
 
BREEDING AND REARING DUCKLINGS FOR EXHIBITION. 71 
 
 in troughs. When ducklinos are attended to by a careful 
 and intelligent attendant, whether he be the owner or a 
 servant, lie will take the fo(.d in a vessel of some kind, say 
 a pail, and when he comes to a flock of ducklingi", no 
 matter how large or small, he will not throw a large 
 quantity of food down at once, but be will take a handful 
 at a time and throw it broadcast. If the food is properly 
 mixed there will not be one particle of waste, for the 
 youngsters will run about iu search of the least crumb. 
 The feeder will of course continue his work by throwing 
 handful after handful until such time as he thinks the birds 
 have had sufficient. It occurs to me now, that whilst you 
 are feeding in this way your ducklings are all the while on 
 the move, and during the process of feeding you are able to 
 see if any of them are ailing, and if so, attend to them at 
 once. Your eye has become acquainted with every 
 individual bird, and long before the wasters are ready for 
 killing your mind is made up which are the wasters and 
 which are the best birds for exhibition. So that when the 
 time comes to draw out the birds for market or killing, you 
 have no difficulty in doing so, for your mind is already 
 made up, and made up in such a manner that a whole day's 
 examination would not be equal to it, and you are able to 
 make your final selection without fear that you are killing 
 a really good bird, and by being able to do so, you are 
 saving time and money. A little extra time spent in feeding 
 will very often decide the question of loss or profit. 
 
 Feed with food as above, about five or six times daily 
 until they are a month old. The sooner you can give them 
 their first meal and the later you give them their last is 
 all the better, for when we remember that the food with 
 which they are fed is partially cooked, and consequently 
 made easier of digestion, also, that the small quantity of 
 food a young duck is capable of consuming at one time, it 
 must therefore follow that the contents of the crop must 
 be exhausted very early in the morning. As our object is 
 to grow them not only as fast as possible, but to get them 
 to an extraordinary size, we must supply ''fuel" in order 
 to keep up the steam, therefore I lay great stress ou a feed 
 early in the morning and late at night. 
 
72 BREEDING AND EKABING DUCKLINGS FOR KXHIBITION. 
 
 After feeding with soft food at dusk, shut your duck- 
 lings up for tlie night. Leave a large shallow pan, either 
 made of tin, iron, or earthenware, fill it with water, and 
 add a bit of good wheat, say a small handful to each duck, 
 and a bit of gravel, that is after they are three weeks or 
 a month old. If they do not clear it out the first night or 
 two, they will soon find out that the wheat is intended 
 for their use, and show you how much they appreciate 
 your kindness by clearing out every grain long before 
 morning. As your ducklings get older you will find that 
 their appetites increase, and they will be able to eat con- 
 siderably more at a meal, and as a matter of course you 
 will give it to them. You will also find that in consequence 
 of their increased capacity for food they do not require 
 feeding bo often. Three times a day will be suificient 
 after they are six weeks old. I do not believe in any kind 
 of spices or over-stimulating foods for ducklings, except 
 in very damp, cold weather, when I have used a little 
 Poultry Spice to great advantage. It is a preventive 
 of cramp and other diseases caused by damp ground, etc., 
 after rain. By the time your ducklings are ten weeks 
 old you will no douU have selected and kept a few of the 
 very best, and of course put the wasters in your pocket, if 
 not, why not ? for it is quite time all this was done. The 
 selected ones will now require special attention, for they 
 will soon begin to cast their first feathers, and should be 
 treated as per my articles on ducks when moulting. 
 
 Good sound food twice daily will now be sufficient for 
 tbem. Spratts Patent Poultry Meal scalded with the 
 broth, in which some kind of flesh meat has been boiled, 
 or some good ^'greaves " or a little "Prairie Meat Crissel'' 
 mixed with ground wheat, barley meal, or thirds, will 
 make an excellent food for the morning, and a bit of good 
 English wheat for the evening. Not forgetting the green 
 food and the grit, also a comfortable house, well bedded 
 with clean straw, to sleep in. 
 
 I have said nothing about water for ducklings for 
 exhibition, for only just lately I have read an article by a 
 writer who distinctly tells us that ducklings will do as 
 
BREEDING AND RRARING DUCKLINGS FOR EXHIBITION. 73 
 
 well without water for ten weeks as they will with if. 
 This assertiou appears to me most unreasonahle and 
 unnatural. I have bred a few ducks in my time, perhips 
 not the thousands that the writer referred towould have 
 us believe he has bred. Still I have bred sufficient to 
 be able to say, fearless of contradiction, that ducks do not 
 thrive or do better without water than with it. I cannot 
 get over the fact that water is the natural element for 
 ducks, and if it is natural for ducks to swim, why should 
 it be unnatural for ducklings? I will not dwell further 
 on this point, for I feel sure that all lovers of water- fowls 
 will let their birds have access to it wherever practical, 
 and if they do not, the result will be cramp, liver disease, 
 death from sunstroke, etc. If you wish to be successful 
 in breeding and rearing ducklings for exhibition, try to 
 assist nature by the exercise of your own knowledge and 
 learning, and do not be misled by anyone who would 
 advise you to work in direct opposition to nature's 
 teachings. 
 
74 
 
 REARING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS 
 FOR MARKET. 
 
 This branch of the business has not had my special atten. 
 tion, and for that reason I do not profess to approach 
 perfection. 
 
 I am perfectly well aware that it would not pay to treat 
 ducklings for market in the manner I described in the last 
 chapter for exhibition purposes, certainly not. If your sole 
 object in rearing ducklings is for the market, there will be 
 no necessity for giving high prices for stock birds Breeders 
 of exhibition birds have frequently a few rough or faulty 
 birds, which they are generally open to sell at a nominal 
 price, and which would answer this purpose admirably. 
 
 If my only object iu breeding ducks were for con- 
 sumption, I should never think of breeding from very 
 large famed parents, but rather than this, I should select my 
 breeding stock from a good prolific strain, weighing about 
 or a little over five pounds per bird when in store condition. 
 From such birds it is easy enough to get ducklings to weigh 
 four or five pounds each at ten weeks old, and in some dis- 
 tricts these will realise quite as much money as those weighing 
 six or seven pounds each. I have often been told when 
 asking ten shillings per couple for ducklings of extra- 
 ordinary size, that the price was very high, for they were 
 only ducks after all. Therefore, in order to breed and rear 
 ducklings solely for the market and to a profit, discretion 
 
REAIIING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS FOU MARKET, 75 
 
 must be used in the selection of breeding stock as well as in 
 the rearing of the ducklings. If your breeding stock are of 
 a prolific strain, and have not been forced to an extraordinary 
 size, there will not be much fear of sterile eggs, especially if 
 they have a fair good run, and the progeny as a rule are 
 very hardy, having sound constitutions to enable them to 
 withstand the strain of forcing and feeding, and being kept 
 from the water for nine or ten week<), at which time they are 
 or ought to be quite fat and in the very pink of condition 
 for killing, and should be disposed of forthwith. 
 
 My treatment for duckliugs for market would be just the 
 same as for exhibition for the first five or six days, but after 
 that it would be entirely different, for the growth, of immense 
 bone and a sound constitution are of little or no consequence. 
 All we require is a nice plump duckling fit to kill at nine or 
 ten weeks old, sooner if possible, and it only remains for me 
 to show how to rear and feed a duckling up to this said point 
 with as little expense as possible. If I had a flock of duck- 
 lings destined for killing, I should not use any kind of fancy 
 foods. All they require is judicious feeding. Care must 
 be taken to keep them clean, warm, quiet, and com- 
 fortable, and as regularity is the sole of business, so it 
 is in the preparation of ducklings for the market. I should 
 feed on bran scalded with the broth in which some very 
 course cheap offal had been boiled, giving offal and all. Not 
 that there is anything very feeding or fattening in either of 
 the above, but the bran keeps the bowels in order for the 
 time required, and the offal tempts the appetite and assists 
 the digestion of the ground oats, ground wheat, barley, 
 buckwheat, or Indian meal, which are all good for feeding 
 ducklings and preparing them for an early market. Any 
 of these meals may be used with advantage, mixed with 
 the scalded bran into a nice stiff crumbly paste, and given to 
 your ducklings as often as appetite may require. The times 
 for feeding will be about the same as laid down for exhibi- 
 tion. Whole grain should not be used for this purpose. 
 A plentiful supply of grit should always be within their 
 reach, and a reasonable allowance of water to drink both 
 before and after feeding. It seems to me a eruel thing to 
 
76 REARING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS FOR MARKET 
 
 deprive a duck of a drink of water until it has gorged itself 
 with food. I think digestion would be assisted if a driuk of 
 water were allowed both before and after a good meal As 
 for a swim, well, I am fully convinced that a good wash and 
 a swim for half au hour or an hour daily is very beneficial 
 to ducklings whilst in course of preparation tor market. 
 Only think how much more comfortable they must be when 
 returned to a good bed of clean dry straw after a bath and a 
 good feed. No one will ever convince me that ducks will do 
 better, nor even as well, without water as with it. No, not 
 even for killing. 
 
 Ducklings for the market can be and are bred in thousands 
 by experienced breeders, who make it their sole business, and 
 I know many of these breeders personally, who can and do 
 make a very good living in England. There is no 
 reason why our British farmers should not make considerable 
 additions to their yearly income by breeding and rearing 
 ducks for the market. 
 
 When we take into consideration the enormous, quantity 
 of ducks which are yearly imported into our markets by 
 foreigners, I think I am justified in saying that there is not 
 much fear of our markets becoming glutted with home pro- 
 ductions, for as a rule English people are able to discern the 
 difference between home and foreign productions, even in 
 the shape of articles of food, and a good home-fed duckling 
 is always in demand at a fair good price, at least that is my 
 experience. I have never any difficulty in disposing of my 
 wasters, when killed and dressed, at a very good price, and 
 if I could not do better by keeping ducks for exhibition, I 
 have sufficient confidence to believe that I could make a fair 
 good living by breeding and rearing ducklings for the 
 market. 
 
REARING ASD FEEDING DUCKLISG8 POU MARKET. 77 
 
 METHOD OF KILLING. 
 
 As ducks are to be killed for the table or market, it may 
 be as well to point out the most merciful way of taking their 
 lives, a point on which few concern themselves. 
 
 The most merciful way, and also the quickest, if skilfully 
 managed, is to take hold of the legs and flight feathers with 
 the right hand, and the head with the left hand, place the 
 neck over your left thigh, and with a sudden jerk the neck 
 becomes dislocated, the spinal cord ruptured, and the bird is 
 at once made void of the sense of feeling. The same effect 
 may also be produced by a sudden twist. 
 
 Another plan is to take a stick in the right hand, hold up 
 the bird by the legs with the left hand, and strike the bird 
 a smart blow at the back of the neck, about the second or 
 third joint from the head. Death follows instantly ; but the 
 breaking of the neck with a momentary jerk, as already 
 described, is certainly the quickest method, consquently the 
 most merciful. 
 
 We keep these creatures for our own pleasure and profit, 
 and kill them for our use, but even in this our last and often 
 painful duty we should treat them with mercy. 
 
78 
 
 HOW TO TREAT DUCKS WHEN 
 MOULTING. 
 
 As a rule, ducks begin moulting in July, and are 
 usually througli the moult about September. The earlier 
 this change takes place the better. The weather being 
 more favourable to the birds, gives them more time to 
 recover their strength, and enables them to commence 
 laying earlier in the season. Moulting is a very critical 
 time even for ducks, and many valuable specimens are 
 lost during this course of nature. 
 
 The general condition of the system being considerably 
 reduced, it is therefore necessary to assist nature, if you 
 wish your ducks to have an early and successful moult, 
 by attending to their comforts internally and externally. 
 They should be kept warm and dry. Their house should 
 be cleaned out. daily, and a good bed of clean straw put 
 down for them to lie on. Warmth, generous diet, and 
 cleanliness, together with an increase of animal food or 
 other stimulants, will have the desired effect. 
 
 Warmth may be secured in many ways. See that there 
 are no draughts in tlie house, that it is watertight and 
 kept clean and drj' inside. Increase the supply of meat, 
 and use that^kind of meal most likely to give heat to the 
 body — viz., oatmeal, barley meal, or buckwheat meal, 
 mixed with Spratts Patent Poultry Meal scalded with 
 boiling water. Now is the time for the use of a little 
 spice of some kind or other occasionally. I am only a 
 very poor doctor, and am not an advocate either of spice 
 or medicines To prevent is better than to cure. There- 
 fore see that your ducks are warmly and comfortably 
 housed, supply them with good sound food well cooked. 
 See that their food and water dishes are regularly cleaned 
 and a good supply of gravel within their reach. If you 
 do this you will not be troubled with many sick birds. 
 
79 
 
 PREPARING AND KEEPING DUCKS IN 
 CONDITION FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 Although a recent writer tells us that ducks require 
 less preparation for exhibition than any other class of 
 poultry, my experience has been of a very different 
 character to this. It may safely be said that a really tirst^ 
 class pen of young ducks, about six or seven months old, 
 require very little or no preparation for the show pen, for 
 tbey will just be in fine plumage. If Aylesburys the bills 
 will be perfection at this age. The question now arises 
 how are we to preserve these beautiful flesh-coloured bills, 
 and the beautiful bloom and condition of the plumage ? 
 
 Fine condition goes a very long way in a show pen, 
 and hides many little imperfections. A really good young 
 duck in perfect health and condition only requires placing 
 in a training pen for an hour or two daily for a week 
 previous to the show at which you intend exhibiting it. 
 Some people think it is a waste of time to put ducks into 
 a training pen previous to sending them to an exhibition, 
 and perhaps it would be so in the case of Pekins, for they 
 cannot stand too erect in their pens. With Aylesburys, 
 Kouens, and Cayugas, it is very different, upright carriage 
 of their bodies being very objectionable. 
 
 Birds should be accustomed to the show pen before 
 being sent to an exhibition, otherwise they will not show 
 themselves to advantage. They should be trained to eat 
 grain of some kind when in their pens at home, so that 
 they will feed without trouble at the show, and not 
 require cramming. If 5'ou allow the old ducks perfect 
 liberty, and they are continually exposed to all kinds of 
 
80 PHBPAKINO AND KEEPING DUCKS IN CONDITION 
 
 FOB EXHIBITION. 
 
 weather, you cannot expect them to remain in good show 
 form, consequently it is much better to allow stock birds 
 to stay at home until they have moulted. To keep ducks 
 in show form it is necessary to use some precaution to 
 keep them very clean both in the house and run. It is 
 impossible to do this during the breeding season. There- 
 fore, if you wish to breed from your exhibition ducks you 
 must be prepared to sacrifice them as exhibition specimens 
 for the season, for if you allow them perfect freedom they 
 cannot be expected to recover until they have moulted. 
 
 During the time this change is being effected is the 
 time when you may assist them to that state of perfection 
 in which they appeared at their first show. This can be 
 done Ijy good feeding and housing. The food should now 
 be of a better quality, giving a little fat or linseed in their 
 food two or three times weekly during the moult. Some 
 useful hints will be found in the chapter on "The Treat- 
 ment of Ducks when Moulting." 
 
 If your ducks have commenced moulting and it is about 
 the middle of July, I would advise you to assist their 
 progress during this change, in order to be able to compete 
 successfully with others, and to do so, the first part of the 
 business is, to examine the house and see that it is 
 thoroughly clean and dry underfoot. A good coating of 
 lime-wash, with a little carbolic acid or naphtha added, 
 will clear the place of insect-vermin inside, and a coat of 
 tar outside will make it watertight, and more suitable to 
 get your birds in condition for exhibition, they will rest 
 and do all the better afterwards Your house, having 
 undergone a thorough cleaning inside and out, is now 
 ready for the reception of your ducks which are to be 
 taken up for repairs. They have had perfect liberty for 
 say six months. Their feathers are hard and brittle, in 
 fact they are worn out, and nature has ordained that ducks 
 should have a change of feathers annually. The outer 
 skin of the bill also changes with the plumage, and in 
 order that these new feathers and skin may be srrowti to a 
 high state of perfection, the birds on which they are 
 
PREPARING AND KKBPING DUOKS IN CONDITION 81 
 
 IfOK EXHIBITION. 
 
 grown must be well nourished and comfortably housed, 
 and when such feathers, etc., are grown to perfection, they 
 must be preserved in that state by artificial means. If 
 they are allowed perfect liberty during their moult, and 
 more particularly, immediately after their moult, they will 
 very soon damage their plumage, and their bills will very 
 soon assume a gross appearance. It is therefore necessary 
 to keep them in partial confinement during and after 
 moulting. They should be let out for an hour or two 
 daily to have a wash and a swim, and also to remain in 
 the open air for a reasonable time, so that the sap may be 
 dried out of the new feathers, which in an Aylesbury 
 will very often be yellowish during moulting, in which 
 case they must have access to the water and be exposed 
 to the air. 
 
 During the time your ducks are having their bath and 
 exercise, clean the house thoroughly and give a good bed 
 of fresh, clean straw. Should their bills be too high in 
 colour (yellowish), or if any horny substance has grown 
 on the sides of the upper mandible, take a sharp penknife 
 and carefully remove aU objectionable superficial matter, 
 which may have accumulated during the breeding season. 
 Care must be taken not to touch the inner membrane, and 
 on no account draw bloodr for if you do it wiU cause the 
 birds great pain, and it might do serious injury, or even 
 cause death, therefore I would advise all beginners to be 
 careful and not make too free with the knife in this matter, 
 but leather use a bit of the finest sandpaper. If you just 
 take the rough off with your knife, and then rub gently 
 with the sandpaper, you will soon be able to discern when 
 it is time to stop. This operation, judiciously performed, 
 gives nature assistance in the performance of this change 
 of skin on the bill, w^hich is quite as important as that of 
 the plumage. You will find that this change requires time. 
 After taking off all surplus matter, you may put a quantity 
 of clean gravel into a large bowl, five or six inches deep, 
 fill up with water, and put it into your ducks' houses, and 
 instead of feeding your ducks in the usual way in the 
 afternoons, give them a few handfuls of wheat, and throw 
 
 7 
 
82 PRBPAUISO AND KEEPING DUCKS IN CONDITrON" 
 
 FOB EXHIBITION. 
 
 it into the bowl in wliich you have already put gravel aud 
 water. Your birds will, as a matter of course, root about 
 in the bowl for the wheat, and whilst doing so they are 
 scouring and bleaching their bills in a much better fashion 
 than you could do so for them. 
 
 My remarks on the superficial growth of matter on 
 ducks' bills, and the removal thereof, are equally appli- 
 cable to Aylesburys, Eouens, Pekins, and Cayugas, and 
 should have special attention when moulting. 
 
 The plumage of all varieties of domestic ducks is no 
 doubt preserved and the colour briglitened by partial 
 confinement, especially during a hot summer-day, when 
 the sun would tan the bills of Aylesburys, and burn the 
 bloom oH the plumage of any kind of ducks, no matter 
 what colour. If you wish to keep your ducks in condition 
 for exhibition, you must observe cleanliness in every 
 particular, both in the house and outside. Feed with 
 English corn, there is no best, although I prefer wheat ; 
 but avoid Indian corn, especially for Aylesburys. I have 
 no doubt — in fact I'm sure — Indian corn would improve 
 the coloui' of Pekins. Still I do not like it as a food for 
 either English cattle or birds, as it contains too much 
 yellow fat. The use of Indian corn has caused the prema- 
 ture death of many a valuable specimen Whilst you are 
 keeping your pets in prison for your own personal pleasure 
 and profit, do not forget that you have so confined them 
 and that they are depending on you for their subsistence. 
 Think of the absolute necessity of the grit in the water, 
 the clean straw, and the bit of green stuff I grow a large 
 quantity of Malta and Coss lettuce for my ducks, and they 
 seem to enjoy it very much, in fact no kind of green food 
 seems to come wrong to them It is really marvellous 
 what can be done in the improvement of condition by 
 careful and judicious treatment, without overfeeding or 
 impairing the system. Many would-be-fanciers have ofteii 
 told me that they could do with ducks, but they find a 
 difficulty in keeping their bills the proper colour, especially 
 the Aylesbui-ys. I have known people assert that they 
 
Preparing and kespino duoks in condition ^fi 
 
 FOB XXUIBITION. 
 
 really believed it was an impossibility to keep them right 
 for a month after they left Aylesbury. This is simply 
 nonsense. There is certainly a bit of art in showinfj an 
 old duck with a very fine bill, but there is little or no art 
 in exhibiting a young one in perfect colour and condition. 
 As for there being anything in the soil in and around 
 Aylesbury which has an influeiica on either the colour of 
 the bill or plumage is altogether untrue and misleading. 
 I have bred, reared, and exhibited Aylesbury ducks, and 
 sometimes shown them in creditable condition, and the 
 ground over which they have run is heavy clay-soil, there 
 is not one particle of chalk in it that I am aware of. If 
 you get your stock and your eggs from breeders who keep 
 only one pure variety and attend to my instructions in 
 this chapter, you will find that there is not much difflculty 
 in keeping even the white Aylesbury duck in perfect 
 health and condition. 
 
 I think I have said sufiicient about getting birds up to 
 show form, unless I introduce the scissors and tweezers 
 for the benefit of young fanciers who may be tempted to 
 indulge in a bit of 
 
 TRIMMING. 
 
 Perhaps they will be as well left in the workbox, for fear 
 some new beginner should be too bold and try his hand 
 before he has made himself sufficiently well acquainted 
 with every shade and shape of all the required points 
 necessary in a Kouen or any other variety subject to freaks 
 which do not meet with the approval of their owners. I 
 do not know exactly how they are done myself, but this I 
 do know : I have seen a Eouen drake with a broad white 
 ring round his neck at one show, and at another show very 
 shortly afterwards I have seen the self-same drake on the 
 scene with a beautiful narrow white ring, just the thing 
 the doctor ordered. A few white or rusty feathers also 
 have a most accommodating habit of moulting out before 
 the rest of the plumage, I once knew a really first-class 
 duck of this variety which up to two years of age \ya9 
 
84 PREPARING AND KBBPI.VG DUCKS IN CONDITION 
 
 FOJi EXHIBITION 
 
 very bad to beat. Now when this duck moulted in her 
 third year, she thought she would dress rather different 
 from the rest of her sisters. So she came out with a 
 charming white ring, which completely encircled her neck. 
 The owner, an old hand, scarcely fell in with the old 
 lady's taste. So he altered it — how I do not know, but the 
 next time I saw her the white ring had disappeared and 
 her neck one uniform colour. 
 
 Two flagrant cases of trimming were discovered at one 
 of our leading shows. It frequently happens that a Kouen 
 drake will grow more or less white feathers just at the 
 extremity of his armour-chain, almost forming a white 
 line between the chain or grey colour, which really ought 
 to run close up to the velvet-black that covers the lower 
 extremity of the body. It appears that some of these 
 objectionable white feathers grew in this particular part 
 of the plumage of two drakes, and the breeder seeing that 
 they were very good in all other points, and finding that 
 he could not win with them at a small agricultural show, 
 decided to remove the white feathers, which he did very 
 clumsily by breaking them off, leaving the small quills 
 about a quarter of an inch long, also leaving a gap in the 
 plumage, just as though it had been struck with a whip- 
 lash. One of the best judges failed to discover tiie fraud, 
 and awarded first and second prizes to the very drakes 
 referred to. Now it happened that a new beginner fell 
 in love with the first prize drake, and claimed him at 
 something between £14 and £20, paid his money, got his 
 receipt, and in less than ten minutes after doing this was 
 advised not to enter him for a coming show, for if he did 
 he would certainly be disqualified. 
 
 This is what I call hard lines for new beginners. And 
 if judges and committees will not act consistently and 
 disqualify all cases of trimming, they are neither working 
 to the interests of the breeder, exhibitors, or the exhibition 
 at which such trimmed specimens may be exhibited. 
 
86 
 
 EXHIBITING. 
 
 Exhibition hampkks. — I have frequently seen ducks sent 
 to shows in hampers which were a disgrace to the owner. 
 
 A good hamper is best and cheapest. I like to 
 travel my ducks in a large hamper. This hamper is 48 by 
 24 inches and 18 inches deep. In this 1 take four single 
 ducks, and as it is divided with canvas into four compart- 
 ments the birds are kept much cleaner than they would be 
 if put altogether. 
 
 A closed wicker hamper about two feet in diameter and 18 
 inches deep is manufactured in Aylesbury; this is a very 
 useful one. Many exhibitors often complain that their 
 hampers have been cut open at shows. If exhibitors would 
 only send their birds in proper hampers and have the lids to 
 fasten with a strong little strap, they would have less to 
 complain of 
 
 Instead of sending their birds in proper baskets which 
 may be easily opened, many send them in old tumble-down 
 things scarcely able to keep canvas and willows together. 
 Then they take a packing needle and sew the lid or top 
 canvas down, so that when the pen-men want topen the birds 
 they have no other alternative but to cut the stiings. 
 
 Whatever kind of hampers you use, let them be light, 
 consistent with strength. Let your fastener be a strap, and 
 have them well lined and apocketforprizecardsif you wish 
 to have them in good condition. 
 
86 EXHIBITING. 
 
 TRANSIT.— If your ducks are to be successful in the 
 exhibition peu, tbey must be shown to the best advantage. 
 Tour birds may look exceedingly well before they are des- 
 patched, but by the time they arrive at the show they may, 
 and very often do. look quite different. They have very 
 likely had a long journey, and probably a rough one. 
 
 There are some parcel porters quite as careful as an 
 exhibitor would be himself, and their are others who handle 
 your birds in such a rough, heartless manner, that I am often 
 surprised they get to the show alive. 
 
 No wonder we hear so many complaints about birds being 
 damaged when at exhibitions. I have seen them piled up 
 on a hand-cart three or four in height. The porter takes 
 hold of the cart, runs along the platform, the baskets being 
 piled up too high, come in contact with aboard or something 
 overhead which we see on platforms of most stations Down 
 comes one or more of the hampers bang on the platform. 
 No one knows or cares whether the birds are damaged or 
 not. Away they go perhaps into the parcel office to waitfor 
 the next van, which may be one of the ordinary parcel vans. 
 
 These parcel vans are all right for a lot of small hampers, 
 such as bantams, pigeons, and rabbits, but they are really too 
 small for the conveyance of. large poultry baskets. This 
 being the only conveyance to hand, and as the exhibits 
 must be in the show by a fixed time, there is no other 
 alternative. The parcel van is loaded, a few large hampers 
 soon fill the body, after which large baskets are lifted up 
 on the top of the van, sometimes by two men, of tener by one, 
 who will take hold of a hamper by one end and half throw 
 it up to the top of the van. It is my opinion there is more 
 damage done to show birds by the rough usageof porters and 
 carters when loading and unloading at stations and shows, 
 than all other accidents put together. There is not sufficient 
 cure taken by these men. Eailway companies are beginning 
 to see that it is to their advantage to make more provision 
 for exhibitors and their stock, and those of us who are in 
 the habit of visiting many of the largest shows have no cause 
 to complain of the accomodation provided for us by moat 
 
EXHIBITING. 87 
 
 Companies. A real fancier is always anxious to see his birds 
 safely in tlie show, also to see how they compare with other 
 exhibits, often a bit anxious to see the prize card up. and 
 then very anxiousto seehis birds safehome again. Exhibitors 
 can do all this by going to the shows themselves. Take your 
 birds with you and bring tbein back if at all practicable. 
 If yonr ducks are worth exhibiting at all they are worth 
 showing well. 
 
 We will now suppose they have arrived at the exhibition 
 either one way or the other, and my advice is, to the new 
 beginner, " Go to those shows within easy reach." Do 
 not rush your birds indiscriminately all over the country 
 unaccompanied. If you intend showing at the Crystal 
 Palace. Dairy, Birmingham, Liverpool, etc., keep a pen 
 or two specially for these shows. Do not show them any- 
 where till then. By this time your ducks will be at their 
 very best, and the greater will be your chance of winning. 
 
 PENNING. — Here we are again on the field at a summer 
 show Birds at shows have travelled some distance either 
 by road or rail. Perhaps they were put in their basket 
 the night previous. The exhibition pen is one .of the 
 ordinary wire pens, 24 by 24ins., and 27ins. high placed on 
 bare boards, not even a bit of canvas thrown over the pens 
 to shield your birds from the burning sun or, on the other 
 hand, a pouring rain. The pens are arranged in single tier 
 in the open air. You have taken your birds to this show, 
 and of course yon took with you a bit of waterproof, a>spare 
 horse-rug, or,tiny thing, which you knew would protect your 
 birds from the inclemency of the weather. Having made 
 your pen comfortable, by putting a cover on the top and a 
 nice bed of hay or straw in the bottom, open your basket 
 and just see that your ducks are clean. If their bills or 
 legs are dirty, take a small sponge and wash them. A bit 
 of good wheat will be very acceptable If you put two or 
 three handfuls in the water-tin your ducks will eat it and 
 look all the better. Now shut the pen door, get out of the 
 way of the judge, and wait patiently for the awards. If 
 you are fairly beaten, or otherwise, do not get excited, but 
 
88 EXHIBITING. 
 
 coollv reckon the mutter up and find out, if defeated, the 
 reasoi whfj. Then go in for the remedy, wliich in nine cases 
 out of ton will be letter birds. 
 
 CRAMMING. 
 
 I have said nothing about the objectionable practice of 
 cramming ducks at exhibitions. I could relate several very- 
 amusing incidents which have occtirred in this most important 
 (to some people) finishing touch. I remember there was a 
 resolution passed at a council meeting in connection with 
 one of our largest winter shows, that cramming should, if 
 possible, be put down. It was subsequently decided to have 
 the ducks in the place of exhibition a whole day prior to 
 judging. After all these precautions, what do you thinlc 
 happened on the day of judgment? Why one of the Rouen 
 drakes fell sick. 
 
 This was reported in the office by the attendant, who by 
 the way has been the principal attendant at this show for 
 many years. A little later on, the same attendant reported, 
 drake, pen No. so-and-so, "dead." Another report, duck, 
 pen No. so-and-so, " ill," which also belonged to the same 
 exhibitor, and yet another report, duck, pen No. so-and-so, 
 " dead." Would you think it possible that this very drake 
 and duck were the property of the person who was so anxious 
 to put a stop to cramming ? I cannot say for certain that 
 these two birds had been crammed, but it was generally 
 believed they had. There is one fact well known to a few 
 old fanciers, that these ducks actually vomited nearly two 
 pounds of raw beef. Some said it was horseflesh. This is 
 scarcely the way to put cramming down. I think I could 
 suggest a much better way, which would be fair to all. I am 
 now speaking of duck-exhibiting at first-class shows, such as 
 
CRAMMING. 89 
 
 the Dairy, Palace, Birmingham, Liverpool, etc. Ducks, 
 like Carriers, Barbs, and Trumpeters, should be provided 
 with two separate cans, one for food and the other for water. 
 Ducks ought not to be fed with soft food before judging. 
 We all know what dirty creatures they are. If some 
 wheat were put into one of these cups, and water in the 
 other, birds will be able to feed well without making them- 
 selves so very dirty. If this plan were adopted, many 
 fanciers would never try to cram. 
 
 The only way to prevent such abominable practices is 
 for one exhibitor to have a good feeling towards another, 
 and have a general understanding that this disgusting 
 practice shall not be indulged in or tolerated. There is 
 a difference between cramming a bird to suffocation and 
 just giving him four or five pellets to keep him in condition. 
 
 Many young birds will not eat at exhibitions, then it is 
 sometimes necessary to give them a little food in this way. 
 Ducks which have been subjected to cramming are of little 
 or no use for stock purposes. " Do not cram if your birds 
 will eat." 
 
90 
 
 THE QUESTION OF PROFIT, 
 
 riRST TEAK. 
 
 This is an item about which there are a variety of 
 opinions However, in this case I am not going to attempt 
 to show something unreasonable. I have no desire to 
 mislead or deceive anyone, having no personal benefit to 
 gain ther.eby. I shall not under-rate the cost of stock, or 
 be foolish enough to say that I can keep a duck for a 
 penny a week ; neither will I over-estimate the value of 
 your produce for the sake of showing a large profit. I 
 will simply show what has actually been done and what 
 can be repeated without a shadow of a doubt. I do not 
 say that it would he wise on the part of a beginner to 
 plunge headlong into duck breeding to try to make £50 a 
 year straight off the mark. By no means. He may already 
 have a fair knowledge of ducks, and also have my figures 
 to work by ; still before he can make £50 a year, it is 
 necessary be should serve a short apprenticeship 
 
THK QtJKSTtON Ot I'KOlflT, flHST •VEAE. 91 
 
 III showing how to begin, you will observe I start with 
 one pen of stock-birds. In my article on breeding, you 
 would no doubt notice that I had only one drake and three 
 ducks, in which I said we ought to get sixty eggs from 
 each duck, in all 180. This is a very moderate caloula. 
 tion. Some ducks will lay almost twice that number ; 
 others will scarcely get up to sixty. However, mine have ' 
 averaged about sixty each for the last four years, that is 
 reckoning old and young. From 180 eggs we ought to get 
 150 duckings from stock-birds which are not exhibited. 
 I will endeavour to show the beginner what profit he 
 ought to make by breeding from this one pen of ducks 
 during the first year of his apprenticeship. First of all 
 I will take the cost of his house and stock : 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Duck-house 10 
 
 One Drake and three Ducks 20 . each 4 
 
 Then comes the question of keep. I allow 2|d. per 
 week for each duck ; this includes straw for bedding. 
 This allowance is quite sufficient to keep large ducks in 
 good health and condition. We have four stock-ducks 
 which require feeding for fifty-two weeks, allowing that 
 in summer or autumn we begin. Four ducks at 2Jd. per 
 week each for fifty-two weeks will cost £2 3s 4d. Then 
 assuming we have 150 ducklings (certainly not all at once) 
 some of them will be killed before the others make their 
 appearence, and in order that there may be no mistake, I 
 will calculate what will be the cost of feeding the whole 
 160 up to nine weeks old. These I allow -the same amount 
 per week as the stock-ducks, for although they eat very 
 little the first month, they have a way of taking kindly 
 
92 TUE QUESTION OF PROFIT, FIBST YKAE. 
 
 to tlieir food at about five weeks old, and don't they put 
 it out of sight quickly for the next three or four weeks ' 
 and it is best and cheapest to let them have food to their 
 hearts' content. Do not think for a moment that I expect 
 you to rear the whole of the 150. There will, or I am 
 much mistaken, be some casualties for which I will 
 afterwards make an allowance. The cost of keeping 150 
 ducklings from birth up to nine weeks old at 2^d. per 
 week each will be £14 Is. 3d. I will now divide loO 
 ducklings into packs of ten as suggested in a former 
 article. Ten will go into 150 fifteen times. Now out of 
 each lot of ten I will send tfight to market, which will 
 average 3s. 6d. each, and if you are only in the market 
 early enough in the spring the average will be very much 
 higher. There will be no necessitj' for selling any of 
 your ducklings for less than 3s. each even at the end of 
 the season, for, being bred from good stock and well fed, 
 they are very different articles of food to the little, half- 
 starved things we so often see in our maiket« iind in our 
 fish and poultry shops. 
 
 Superior ducklings will always command good prices. 
 Here we have fifteen times eight — viz., 120 sold for market 
 at 38. Gd. each = £21. I will now make an allowance for 
 casualties. Allowing one duckling out of every ten has 
 either sickened or met with some accident or another 
 which has put an end to its existence. This will be 
 fifteen, for which I get no return whatever. Then I have 
 fifteen selected ones, which are the best birds out of each 
 pack Fifteen such birds as these when about six months 
 
THK QUESTION OP PBOFFT, FIUST YKAIl. 93 
 
 old, if in practical hands, would realise a good round sum ; 
 but as they are in the hands of a beginner, I must not 
 estimate them at too high a figure. I will therefore value 
 them at the price as the same owner's stock-birds, which 
 is £1 each, so that fifteen selected birds are worth £15. 
 Of course these fifteen ducklings have been kept from 
 nine weeks old up to twenty-six weeks I have therefore 
 to add seventeen weeks' keep to the nine weeks already 
 charged for at 2^d. per week, which will be £2 13s. l|d. 
 Then there is the breeding stock which, if not sold ofi at 
 the end of the first year, must be allowed for as wear and 
 tear. If we allow twenty-five per cent, for depreciation 
 of stock, and use the breeders for three years, and then 
 sell them ofi for killing, we should not be very far on 
 the wrong side. We have now to make some allowance 
 for sitting hens or the use of an incubator. If we say 
 £1 3s. 2|d. it will be fairly good pay for the use of twenty, 
 two " cluckers " or an incubator. 
 
 I have said nothing about rent of houses and runs. 
 The heap of rich manure you will have at the end of the 
 season, together with the bagsf ul of fine feathers, will pay 
 for the use of any outbuilding you may have occupied 
 with your youngsters ; or if you had to put up a rough 
 shed, the feathers and manure will pay good interest on 
 the outlay. The stock-birds will do more good than harm 
 on your croft, garden, or pasture. 
 
 Now as to the question of labour. This has no place in 
 the expenses, for most small f armei'S, gai'deners, cottagers, 
 or small fanciers, have either sufficient spare time them- 
 selves, or have children who can do this kind of work 
 without interfering with anything else, and a pursuit of 
 
94 THE QUESTION OP PKOFIT, FIRST TEAK. 
 
 this kind often keeps a man with little to do out of worse 
 mischief, and at the end of the year puts something in his 
 pocket for doing so. We will now have a look at figures 
 and see how the expenses and income tally for one year. 
 EXPENSES. 
 
 Feeding 4 breeding ducks for 52 weeks at 25d. 
 
 per week each 
 Feeding ] 50 ducklings for 9 weeks at 2^d. per 
 
 week each 
 Feeding 15 dncklings from 9 weeks to 26 
 
 weeks at 2Jd. 
 
 Depreciation of breeding stock 25 per cent. 
 
 on £i ... 
 Use of sitting hens or incubator 
 
 Total 
 
 INCOME. 
 
 120 ducklings for market sold at .3/fi each ... 21 
 15 ducklings for exhibition or breeding, at 
 
 20/- each 15 
 
 15 casualties 
 
 £ 
 
 8. 
 
 d. 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 U 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 3i 
 
 £21 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tota,l income £36 
 
 Total expenses 21 
 
 Nett profit ...£15 
 
 SECOND YEAE. 
 
 Having finished your first year's apprenticeship with a 
 nett profit of £15, you must now decide on your course 
 of action for the second year's work. It will not be 
 necessary to keep three times the quantity of breeding 
 stock in order to make three times the amount of money 
 you made last year, but you must certainly increase your 
 stock. 
 
 I should not advise you to keep more than two pens 
 during your second year. The way to start your secou(J 
 
THE QUKSTION OP PROFIT, SECOND YB\R. 95 
 
 pen is to select three of the very best ducks out of the 
 fifteen you have bred, and which to you are really worth 
 more money than you would perhaps be able to sell them 
 for. Your only extra expense will be a new house and 
 another drake. Do not buy a new stock-drake until you 
 have visited one or two shows, at which you may see one 
 in the selling class (a young one, mind). Satisfy yourself 
 that he is not related to your original stock, and also that 
 he is quite as good, or even better, than the best drake 
 you have bred. It would be of great assistance to you if 
 you made just one entry in each class, viz , one drake in 
 his class and one duck in her class. You would then be 
 able to compare your birds side by side with those of 
 experienced breeders. Theory is all right and indispens- 
 able, and, when assisted by practical experience, often 
 attains the desired goal. By exhibiting your birds you 
 advertise them in such a manner that no other mode of 
 advertisement is equal to. Old exhibitors see them. These 
 gentlemen are always open to buy a really good one 
 of any kind, and will not grudge to give a good price. 
 In addition to the old exhibitor, we have the general 
 public, some of whom have quite as keen an eye for a 
 " topper " as the oldest and best breeder. If you do not 
 meet with a drake at the show, you will be able to form 
 some idea of other breeders' stock by the birJs they are 
 showing, and you will not have much diflBculty in diciding 
 where to go to look for one, or who to write to. If you 
 write for a bird, have_ him sent on approval, and once 
 more, "be sure be is a young one." Keep your eye on 
 the marking ring." The end of November is quite late 
 enough to mate up your stock-birds. By this time you 
 
96 THE QUESTION OF PROI'IT, SffiOlND TISAE. 
 
 will have bought a drake, and, of course, put him to your 
 three young ducks. You will now proceed with your 
 two pens of Lreedeis the same way as last year, setting 
 all the hens as directed. If broody hens are bad to get, 
 which is often the case in winter and early spring, the 
 next best thing to do is to invest in an incubator. As I 
 said before, the " Westmeria" is my favourite; it is the 
 safest and best machine I have ever come in contact with 
 
 Suppose your success in breeding is equal to last year, 
 your eye is better trained to enable you to be more 
 accurate in your selection of the best bird.'J, and if your 
 selection of stock-birds has been a judicious one, it will' 
 not be unreasonable to expect two good birds out of every 
 ten from your second pen of ducks. I will now see wliat 
 profit is derived from your No. 2 pen : — 
 
 EXPENSES. £ 3. d. 
 
 Feeding i stock ducks for 52 weeks at 2Jd. per week each. 2 3 4 
 
 Feeding 150 ducklings for 9 weeks at 2Jd. per week each. 11 1 li 
 
 Feeding 30 ducklings from 9 weeks to 2(i weeks at 2id... 5 0,3 
 Depreciation of breeding stock, 25 per cent, on £5 (this 
 
 is allowing you gave £2 for your new stock drake)... 15 
 
 Use of sitting hens, or wear and tear of an incubator 12 
 
 Allow for entry fees and expenses at two shows 4 9 S 
 
 Expenses £28 7 6 
 
 INCOME. 
 
 lO.T ducklings sent to market, at 3s. 6d. each 18 7 6 
 
 30 ducklings for exhibition or stock purposes, at 20s each. 30 
 15 casualties 
 
 Income £43 7 6 
 
 Expenses 28 7 6 
 
 Profit £20 
 
 The result from No. 1 pen, same as last year 15 
 
 Profit for the year.. .£35 
 
THK QUESTION OF I'ROPIT. 97 
 
 THIRD YEAR. 
 
 Having served two years as an apprentice, I will now 
 ask you to commence work as a fully-fledged journeyman. 
 First of all clear out your first pen of breeding ducks, 
 whicli at two years old should be good enough to sell at 
 10s. each, and with the money jou get for these purchase 
 another drake, and put this to three of the very best 
 ducks you bred last year. Having done so, you have now 
 two really first-class breeding pens, and as your six ducks 
 are the cream of three hundred, and mated with two 
 drakes purchased from two of the best breeders, proceed 
 as usual throughout the next season, and if you have 
 succeeded in accomplishing the not-too-difBcult task I have 
 set you during the last two years, you -will make £50 profit 
 this year, and make this sum easily. It you are successful 
 as an exhibitor, I shall not be going too far if I say £20 
 over this Sum. 
 
 Personal attention, judicious selection, and the early 
 despatch of wasters will carry you to the top of the tree 
 this season if you only follow my instructions. The cause 
 of so many failures is the lack of personal attention, and 
 bad judgment. Bring to bear a little common-sense, and 
 do not be disheartened by a few disappointments either in 
 breeding or exhibiting. Give a " long pull and a strong 
 pull." Be thoroughly determined to accomplish your 
 object, and then you will succeed. 
 
 I will not trouble you further with instructions, but 
 proceed to show how / can make £50 a year by keeping 
 and breeding ducks. I rear annually as near 300 duck- 
 lings as possible, I kill all wasters as soon as ever they 
 
 S 
 
98 THE QUESTION OP PBOPIT, THIRD YEAK. 
 
 are fit, and I keep the selected ones either for exhibition , 
 stock purposes, or for sale. If I had 300 ducklings this 
 season, bred as I have advised others to breed, I should 
 kill for market about two-thirds of the 300, which would 
 leave me 100, barring accidents, which would realise a 
 fairly good sum, perhaps more than the new beginner 
 would be ahle to obtain. Of course I should not sell the 
 whole lot, but reserve about six for my own use, viz., stock 
 and exhibition birds. These would not be six of tlie worst. 
 
 This is the way I make £50 a year by breeding ducks, 
 saying nothing at all about keeping a larger breeding 
 stock from which eggs are sold, which, by the way, some- 
 times add considerably to the income of a duck-breeder. 
 Neither have I said anything about the profit to be derived 
 from exhibiting, a subject on which I could give a fairly 
 good account. 
 
 Now after all this exhibition of my own skill 'as a duck- 
 breeder, it will still be necessary for me to show by figures 
 how it is possible for a new beginner to make £50 a year. 
 Here we have six ducks and two drakes. The ducks are 
 calculated to lay sixty eggs each in the season, which 
 equals 360, from which we should have 300 ducklings. 
 Two-thirds, which is 200, are sold for market at 3s. 6d. 
 each when they are nine weeks old. Thirty die from 
 some cause or other, and the remaining seventy selected 
 ones are kept until they are six months old, when the 
 value will be on an average 20s. each. A few will be 
 worth considerably more than this price, others perhaps a 
 trifle less. All this being as written, the expenses in. 
 come, and profit will be as follows : — 
 
THK QUESTION OV PROFtT, THIRD YKXR 99 
 
 EXPENSES. * 8. d. 
 
 Feeding S stock ducks for 52 weeks at 2Jd. each per week. 4 6 8 
 
 Feeding 230 ducklings for 9 weeks at 2Jd. each per week. 21 11 6 
 
 Feeding 70 ducklings for 26 weeks at 2Jd. each per week. 18 19 2 
 
 Use of hens or incubator 2 
 
 Allowance for entrance fees and expenses at shows 5 12 11 
 
 Depreciation of stock, 25 per cent, on £10 2 10 
 
 Total expenses £55 
 
 INCOME. 
 
 200 ducklings sold for market at 3s. 6d. each 35 
 
 80 casualties 
 
 70 selectsd ones sold or in stock at 6 months, at 20s. each. 70 
 
 Total Income £105 
 
 Total Expenses 55 
 
 Nett Profit .....£50 
 
100 
 
 GEESE. 
 
 Like the duck, the common gooae ceases to be strictly 
 monogamus when kept in a 'state of domestication, yet we 
 often find that a gander will pay more attention to some 
 particular goose than to the others which may be mated 
 with him. The instinct is not altogether obliterated, for 
 there is generally a reigning sultana. Therefore, it is not a 
 good plan to mate a large number of geese with one gander, 
 three being quite as many as is safe for breeding purposes. 
 
 The oldest and best authorities all agree that the ''Wild 
 Gray Lag Goose " is the original parent of all our domesti- 
 cated varieties. At what period and by whom the goose 
 was reclaimed it is difficult to say, but that it has descended 
 from the " Wild Gray Lag Goose " cannot be doubted. 
 Neither can there be any doubt that the common goose was 
 found in a state of domestication in England by Ctesar, and 
 long before his time the goose was widely spread in other 
 countries. The " Gray Lag " is an irregular migrator, 
 sometimes visiting the central and eastern parts of Europe, 
 Asia, and Africa. Formerly it was a prominent resident in 
 England, and took up its quarters in Lincolnshire and Cam- 
 bridgeshire, and other fenny districts, where it bred freely. 
 
 In consequence of the vast improvements which have 
 been made in agriculture during the last century, the 
 advancement in commercial enterprise, and the great increase 
 of human population, a great change has taken place. The 
 
GBBSB. 101 
 
 fens and marshes have been drained ; extensiye marshes 
 frequently under water have also been converted into rich 
 farms, and are now devoted to the plough. Consequently, 
 the "Gray Lag" is no longer a permanent resident in our 
 island. Still a few stragglers sometimes pay us a visit 
 during the winter, and remain with us for a time ; but the 
 gun of the sportsman very soon brings them down, or 
 disturbs them in such a manner that they do not remain 
 with us very long. They are naturally very shy, and are 
 continually on the alert, even whilst feeding. Sentinels are 
 01} guard, aud on receipt of the signal of alarm, the whole 
 flocli instantly rise on the wing. This precaution is observed 
 night and day, and this instinct appears to be retained in 
 all our domesticated varieties. A set of geese are quite as 
 good guards as a watch dog, for they will raise an alarm at 
 the sound of footsteps, or at the least suspicion of the 
 presence of a "stranger within the gates." 
 
 From the " Gray Lag Goose " I will now turn to its 
 domesticated descendants, which vaiy to a considerable 
 extent in colour and symmetry. We have the common 
 goose, well known throughout the British Islands. 
 
 I remember when, not very long ago, I traversed extensive 
 commons, in different parts of England and Scotland, seeing 
 thousands of these common geese, the flocks of the respective 
 owners generally keeping well together, aud should they by 
 chance mingle with those of other owners', they usually 
 separated themselves towards evening. Each flock was 
 driven home by a boy called a " gozzard " (goose-herd). 
 The flocks of goslings were brought up together and formed 
 a united band. Each flock was marked sometimes by 
 dabs of paint of various colours, and sometimes by marks 
 punched in the webs of the feet. It was only on very 
 rare occasions that these marks were of service, for being 
 brought up together, they appear bound by the ties of 
 habit to remain so. 
 
 During the last fifty years many of these large commons 
 have either been enclosed or very greatly circumscribed, 
 
102 GBIiSE. 
 
 and the number of geese which were kept by the people 
 around, who had the right of grazing, has been reduced 
 accordingly. Still there are thousands of geese reared 
 annually in England, and there is room for thousands more. 
 
 Lincolnshire is still famous for rearing common geese. 
 Pennant tells us " The geese in his time were kept in 
 multitudes in the fens of Lincolnshire, a single person 
 frequently having a thousand old ones, each of which 
 reared ou an average seven young ones, so that towards 
 the end of the season the owner became possessed of abcuiit 
 8,000 geese." " The stock geese, says Penn.int, " were 
 plucked five times a year for the sake of the feathers." 
 Let us hope it is not so now, and in fact I do not think it 
 is, especially when we take into consideration the quantity 
 of feathers we import from other countries, no less than 
 £105,526 being paid to foreigners in the year 1891 for 
 feathers for beds. Independent of this fact, we must not 
 tolerate the practice of plucking live geese, for it is a 
 barbarous custom, and should be thoroughly abolished. I 
 know it has been the death of many farmers' geese in my 
 time, and mortality must have been considerably greater in 
 Pennant's time 
 
 Lincolnshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, and Berks, send the best 
 geese to the London markets. Geese should be housed 
 apart from any other kind of poultry, and have large 
 houses or sheds to sleep in, and always be provided with 
 a clean dry bed of straw to lie upon. A grass run is 
 absolutely necessary for rearing goslings successfully, and 
 a convenient pond or stream of water is conducive to their 
 health and well-being, although not so necessary for the 
 successful rearing of goslings as it is for stock birds. 
 Owners of geese should not suppose that grass is suflBcient 
 to keep them in perfect health and condition, for they 
 require in addition a daily supply of corn, such as oats, 
 wheat, barley, or maize. Without this they cannot do 
 credit to their owners and grow to any considerable size. 
 
 Hundreds of young geese which might have been reared 
 on the commons, and on poor land, have pined away and 
 
QEESE. 103 
 
 died for want of sufficient nourishment, diseases of various 
 kinds have been manifest, and then aggravated by cold and 
 wet, their impoverished systems being destitute of stamina, 
 they droop and die one after another, until that which was 
 a fine flock in the spring is almost annihilated by the 
 autumn. Thousands of goslings are annually brought in 
 from the country by experienced feeders in the vicinity 
 of London and Belfast. The management of goslings by 
 these wholesale feeders is simply what it rmist he if profit 
 is a consideration. The whole business is conducted with 
 regularity, cleanliness, and punctuality. 
 
 The great object in preparing geese for market is to do it 
 in as short a time as possible. Unremitting attention must 
 be paid to their comforts and requirements, they must be 
 supplied with proper food and at proper intervals. Water 
 and exercise must also have due attention when preparing 
 goslings for the market, but I shall have more to say on 
 this subject in another chapter. 
 
 The common goose varies in colour from the grey to the 
 grey-and- white saddle-back, and then to the perfect white. 
 There is no doubt in my mind that our present domes- 
 ticated sub-varieties are the outcome of man's skill in 
 breeding. Our magnificent exhibition specimens have, by 
 the art of man, been brought to a high state of per- 
 fection, and that has been done by careful and judicious 
 selection of stock for a large number of years. All our 
 domesticated geese, including the common farm-yard goose, 
 the loose-skinned Toulouse, and the tight-feathered Embden 
 are of one common origin, the " Wild Gray Lag Goose." 
 
105 
 
 THE TOULOUSE GOOSE. 
 
 " Toulouse Geese " are my favourites. I have bred and 
 exhibited them more successfully than any other variety, 
 and my idea of the standard of perfection in this variety 
 is identical with that of D. Bragg, Esq., Southwaite Hall, 
 near Carlisle, who wrote an excellent article on this subject, 
 and which appeared in the Christmas number of the 
 Fanciers' Gazette, 1890. From this article I have extracted 
 several remarks, by the kind permission of the writer, 
 whom I know to be one of the best living authorities on 
 geese, also one of our best and most popular judges of 
 waterfowl. These remarks are chiefly confined to the 
 standard of excellence for exhibitiou and will be found useful 
 to breeders of geese. I do not believe in feeding my geese 
 up to extraordinary weights for exhibition. It is one of 
 the most fatal mistakes that can possibly be made. It is 
 the absoliite ruin of a good bird, reducing such to baiTcn- 
 ness, and often resulting in premature death. 
 
 It is the proper course to get the frame as large as 
 possible, and with it a sound constitution in order to 
 carry a large weight of flesh consistent with the size of 
 the frame. Too much fat, especially internally, is most 
 detrimental and dangerous to the lives of your geese. 
 I prefer my geese being judged by appearance rather than 
 by weight. My pair of Toulouse geese which won at all 
 our leading shows during the year 1888-9 weighed forty- 
 eight pounds, and my greatest difficulty with them was to 
 keep the weight down. So great was their disposition to 
 
106 THE TOULOUSE GOOSE. 
 
 fatten that it was very, rarely they got anything but grass 
 in summer and a little bran and thirds in the winter. 
 The accompanying sketch is a true representation of the 
 gander in question. 
 
 At the Dairy Show, I claimed Miss L. Picken's gander, 
 which won the first prize and the Association medai, 1890. 
 This gander is, in my idea, perfection in style, colour, and 
 build. A capital sketch of this bird appeared in the 
 Christmas number of the Fanciers' Gazette, 1890. I am 
 informed on reliable authority that he is one of Mr. Bragg's 
 strain. But be that as it may, he is just the type of a 
 Toulouse gander from which I shall draw up my standard 
 of perfection, assisted by Mr. Bragg. No doubt this is the 
 modern and improved type, and has met with general 
 approval, and deservedly so. The chief improvement in 
 the form and symmetry of the Toulouse is a prominent and 
 deep breast, resembling as much as possible that of a first- 
 class Rouen or Aylesbury duck. 
 
 The keel should be perfectly straight from stem to 
 paunch, where it divides evenly and increases in width to 
 stern, yet forms a straight underline. All indentations in 
 front of thighs to be well filled out, otherwise the full, deep 
 breast will resemble a loose crop. Stern to be heavy and 
 wide. In contour, a full rising sweep from paunch to a 
 high - carried - spreading tail ; shoulders, broad ; narrow 
 shoulders area general failing; neck, medium length and 
 thick ; the head should be strong and massive, in profile, an 
 uniform sweep, or nearly so, from point of bill to back of 
 skull, resembling in formation the head of an Antwerp 
 pigeon. Throat, moderately gulleted, which is uniform 
 with the loose-skinned body of the Toulouse. A side view 
 of the bird should appear almost square, and viewed from 
 behind, an oblong square. The same description answers 
 for both goose and gander of this variety, for it is some- 
 times difficult at exhibitions to say which is the goose and 
 which the gander, but the sex should always be bond fide. 
 
 Colour of bill and legs, orange. Any white round the 
 bate of the bill is very objectionable, and should be bred 
 
THE TOULOUSE GOOSB 107 
 
 out if possible; it comes with age in some strains, and I 
 do not remember seeing many really good old Toulouse 
 geese without this fault. I have known them to be pulled 
 out, and in more than one case dyed ; therefore I would 
 not pass or even score many points against a Toulouse 
 with this defect apparent. 
 
 Neck feathers, dark grey. Bock, wings, and thighs, 
 dark steel-grey, each feather laced with an almost white 
 edging. The breast should be a sound grey colour, without 
 lacing, and to descend as uniform as possible through the 
 keel. Toulouse are very liable to ruu too light in colour 
 below the breast. The colour does naturally ruu lighter 
 from the breast to the legs, but when viewed in front, 
 little or no white should be seen. The stern, from the 
 legs to the tail, should be white. Tail, white with a 
 broad baud of grey across the centre. The wing-flights, 
 a self-coloured dark grey. Eyes, large, bright, and dark. 
 Twenty - eight pounds is a good weight for a matured 
 gander, and twenty pounds for a goose in fair store condi 
 tion. 1 do not wish to have them more than these weights. 
 
The Author's Ideal Toulouse Gander. The Dairy winner of 1890 
 improved. 
 
TBB TOULOUSE QOOSR. 
 
 109 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING 
 
 TOULOUSE GEESE. 
 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 Head, 
 
 Eye, 
 
 BUI, 
 
 and 
 
 Throat. 
 
 Neck. 
 
 Breast 
 and 
 Keel 
 
 Colour 
 
 and 
 
 Harking. 
 
 Tail, 
 
 Stem and 
 Paunch. 
 
 Size 
 Symmetry 
 
 Le?g and 
 Feet. 
 
 Health audi 
 Condition 
 
 Strong and massive. 
 
 Dark and full. 
 
 Orange, strong and well set, in a uniform 
 sweep, or nearly so, from point of bill to 
 back of sknll. 
 
 Well gulleted 
 
 Good length and thickness, dark-grey colour... 
 
 Prominent, deep and full, a sound grey colour, 
 shading a trifle lighter to thighs. 
 
 Perfectly straight from stem to paunch, in- 
 creasing in width to stern, forming a straight 
 underline; Colour same as breast 
 
 Back, wings, and thighs : dark-steel grey, each 
 feather laced with an almost white edging 
 Flights : a sound grey without white. 
 
 Carried high and well spread, white, with a 
 broad band of grey across the centre. 
 
 Heavy and wide. Colour: white 
 
 As large as possible. A good well-matured 
 gander should weigh 28 to 30 lbs., and a 
 goose 20 to 22 lbs 
 
 Massive head, carried majestically on a strong, 
 well-formed neck. Body : long, broad, and 
 deep. Shoulders : broad. Breast and keel : 
 deep, forming a straight underline. Paunch 
 and stern : a full, rising sweep to tail. 
 
 Orange, and very strong in bone. 
 
 Plumage : full, bright, and glossy, and in per- 
 fect order throughout. Eye ; bold and clear 
 Body : heavy, but not broken down. 
 
 Total number of Points 
 
 Points 
 
 16 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 •.. 100 
 
 Disqualifications. — Crooked back, wry tail, slipped or cut 
 wings, or any other bodily deformity, and patches of black or white 
 amongst the grey plumage. The sex should also be bou^-fide. 
 
Embden Gander, winner at the Dairy and^Birmingham, now the 
 property of Henry Digby, Author of this work. 
 
Ill 
 
 THE EMBDEN GOOSE. 
 
 This handsome and useful variety of geese have un- 
 doubtedly been neglected during the last few years, although, 
 they muster fairly well when separate classes are provided 
 for them. But where are the Embden fanciers ? And echo 
 answers where 1 
 
 Some time since one fancier wrote to the Stock-keeper 
 complainiug that all varieties of geese were jumbled to- 
 gether at the Crystal Palace Show. When I appealed to 
 Embden fanciers to give their names and support to provide 
 separate classes for Embdens at the next Palace Show, I 
 failed to find that writer's name amongst my list of sup- 
 porters. I may say that the Palace Committee are quite 
 willing to give classes for Embden geese if fanciers will 
 support them ; but of cours>e, they must have some guaran- 
 tee that the classes will fill or pay in some other way. 
 
 It is quite true what " Poor Embden '' says in his letter. 
 " The superiority of the Embden as a table bird is unques- 
 tionable, and the encouragement it receives at the bauds of 
 99 judges out of 100 is most disappointing." Somej'udges 
 do not understand the merits of the birds sufiiciently well 
 to place them over their more bulky-looking relatives, the 
 Toulouse. The Embdens are undoubtedly excellent table 
 birds, prolific layers, and good breeders, and when we are 
 able to record the sale of a pair of this variety' for the 
 handsome sum of £50, it is enough, or ought to be. to 
 induce farmers and others who have convenience to keep a 
 few geese to go in for breeding Embdens, especially when 1 
 
112 THE BMBDEN' GOOSE. 
 
 tell you on reliable authority that the pair above referred 
 to weighed 531bs. 6ozs., so that if they had not been up to 
 the standard of perfection for exhibition, they would have 
 realised a fair price in the market for table purposes. 
 
 I quite agree with Mr. Bragg, who is one of the most 
 extensive breeders, also one of the best judges of this 
 variety, as to the required distinction between the Embden 
 and the Toulouse. If other judges would only act con- 
 sistently they would eventually put a stop to the cross 
 between the two, at all events for exhibition purposes. 
 
 Embdens should have long broad breasts, with as little 
 indication of keel as possible ; shoulders, broad ; long 
 straight back ; body, broad and thick, and as near round as 
 possible ; a loug swan-like neck is a characteristic and an 
 important set off to an Embden. 
 
 The head should be loug and straight, avoiding as much 
 as possible a " dished " upper mandible. The throat 
 should be clean without the slightest indication of gullet. 
 I would not disqualify an otherwise good bird if even it did 
 show a bit of gullet. The tail should be carried close 
 and straight out ; bill and legs should be a rich orange 
 colour ; eyes, light blue ; colour of body throughout a 
 spotless white ; carriage more sprightly and upright than 
 the Toulouse, thus giving the bird a very smart and 
 defiant appearance. 
 
 Embdens frequently weigh heavier than the Toulouse, 
 although they really do not appear to be so large. They 
 are, or should be, very hard and tight in feather, some- 
 thing like the Game cook, whereas the Toulouse is more 
 like the Cochin, and geese should be judged quite as distinctly 
 as the two varieties of fowls just named. A well-matured 
 Emhdeu gander will turn the scale at 301bs., and a goose 
 at 221bs. 
 
THE EMBDBN GOOSE. 
 
 113 
 
 SCHEDULE FOR JUDGING 
 EMBDEN GEESE. 
 
 VALUE OF POINTS IN EITHER SEX. 
 
 Head, 
 BiU, 
 
 Eyes 
 
 Neck 
 Breast 
 
 Flnmai^e 
 Size 
 
 Symmetry 
 
 Lesfs and 
 Feet 
 
 Health and 
 Condition 
 
 General appearance : long and straight. 
 
 Eioh orange. 
 
 Full and light blue 
 
 Long and swan-like 
 
 Broad and ^lid, with as little indication of 
 keel as possible. (One judge says, without 
 any indication of keel). 
 
 A spotless white throughout 
 
 As large as possible. A well-matured gander 
 should weigh from 30 to 34 lbs , and a goose 
 from 20 to 22 lbs 
 
 A long, straight head, well carried on a long, 
 swan-like neck. Breast : broad and solid. 
 Shoulders : broad. Back, straight. Frame : 
 long. Tail carried well out and close. 
 Paunch: deep. Stem: broad. 
 
 Bright orange, and very strong in bone. 
 
 Plumage : compact, hard, bright, and glossy. 
 Eye : full and bright. Body : heavy ; and 
 general appearance lively and defiant. 
 
 Total number of points 
 
 Point! 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 ... 100 
 
 Disqualifications. — Crooked back, wry taU, or any other 
 deformity. Plumage other than white. Misrepresentation of sex. 
 
 9 
 
114 
 
 BREEDING AND REARING GEESE 
 FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 In breeding goslings for exhibition it is very important 
 to make judicious selection of breeding stock, which should 
 consist of a gander and two or three geese. They should 
 be of mature age (not less than 'two years old), and the 
 gander should not be too closely related to the geese. 
 In fact it id much better to use stock birds which have 
 been bred from two distinct families. Therefore, if you are 
 beginning a strain, I would advise you to purchase your 
 geese from one breeder and your gander from another, 
 although a few breeders, I have no doubt, could supply 
 you with both unrelated. Still it is the safest and best 
 plan to go to separate yards f(>r your stock birds. If you 
 find your geese prolific layers and good breeders, throwing 
 a fair percentage of good birds, I would advise you to 
 keep that pen of geese until you find that they do not lay 
 more than twelve or fifteen eggs each in a season. 
 
 Geese vary considerably in their laying and reproductive 
 powers — some living and doing well to a great age, ten 
 years being no uncommon time for them to live and do 
 well — that is, if they have been used solely for breeding 
 purposes and have not been overfed or knocked about the 
 country from show to show. 
 
 If you feed them on stimulating food in order to get 
 extraordinary size and condition, you will at the same time 
 undermine their constitutions and shorten the period of 
 
BREEDINO ANIJ REARING QEESE FOR EXHIBITION. 115 
 
 their natural lives. In situations adapted for breeding geese 
 there is no doubt they are profitable ; but to do well they 
 require access to water and a grass run, which is absolutely 
 necessary to successful breeding. When kept under such 
 circumstanc3s, they require very little hand feeding, a good 
 handful of wheat, barley, or oats to each bird morning and 
 evening being quite sufBuient during the breeding season. 
 They should have an outhouse to themselves, plentifully 
 supplied with straw with which to make their nests on the 
 floor. There may be two or three large American bacon 
 boxes placed in the corners on their side, or a few partitions 
 fixed so that the geese may (if they choose) make their nests 
 and lay in them without being disturbed by each other. 
 Geese commence laying early iu February if the season is a 
 mild one and the breeding stock have been fairly well 
 nourished during the winter. 
 
 The Toulouse are the most prolific layers, but they are 
 only indififerent sitters and mothers. I have owned indi- 
 vidual bir.ds of this variety which have laid no less than 
 forty-two eggs in one season, and several others which have 
 laid between thirty and forty. The Embdeus do not lay 
 quite so many eggs as do the Toulouse, but they are con- 
 siderably better sitters and mothers. 
 
 The wild gray lag goose lays from five to eight eggs ; 
 the tame common goose from thirteen to eighteen. High 
 feeding, careful selection, and other comforts bestowed on 
 our high-class geese have increased their prolificacy to a 
 very great extent, and it is not at all an unusual occurrence 
 at the present time for a single goose to lay thirty eggs in a 
 season. 
 
 A common goose will frequently lay a second time if 
 even she is allowed to sit, and bring up a brood of goslings, 
 I prefer sitting my goose eggs under large hens, giving each 
 four or five, according to the size of the hen. I find hens 
 much safer than geese for incubation. I have occasionally 
 hatched goose eggs in the " Westmeria Incubator," but I 
 would advise beginners to use hens in preference to either 
 geese or incubators. 
 
116 BREEDING AND BEARING GBESB FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 The period of incubation is thirty days, if the goose or 
 hen sits well, and the eggs are all fresh when put down ; 
 but it may, and frequently does, extend a day or two over 
 that period. If the eggs are entrusted to a goose, the house 
 in which she is sat should be so arranged that the bird can 
 have entrance at all times of the day, for the sitting goose 
 generally leaves her nest once a day, when she should be 
 fed with hard corn. It is a good plan to leave some corn in 
 a bowl of water close by her, so that she may be able to 
 feed at any time she may leave the nest, and it is desirable 
 that she should have access to water at this time. Goose 
 eggs should always be set on the ground or in large boxes 
 half filled with moist soil, so that when the heat of the 
 bird's body which is sitting on them has warmed the nest 
 through (which should be made of hay) it will draw suffi- 
 cient moisture from the soil, to soften the hard shell and the 
 inside membrane, and so enable the gosling to extricate 
 itself from its prison without the risk of being shell-bound. 
 Should the season be a dry one, the earth or soil under and 
 around the nest should be freely watered with warm 
 water two or three times during the last fortnight of 
 incubation. I never sprinkle water on to the eggs ; there is 
 often great danger in such a practice. It is much safer to 
 water the ground all around the nest, and even the nest 
 itself may be damped with advantage but the eggs should 
 not have water sprinkled directly upon them. The process 
 of watering the nest is best done at night, when all is quiet, 
 as the sitting hen is then less likely to be disturbed, and the 
 work can be done efficiently. A quart of warm water is not 
 too much for each nest, especially if the nest is properly 
 made. It is not desirable to interfere with the goslings at 
 the period of hatching, further than to remove the shells 
 and any other refuse which may be in the nest. They 
 should be allowed to remain in the nest for at least twenty- 
 four hours after 'hatching before being disturbed or fed. 
 Some people take them away from the mother as soon as 
 they are hatched until the whole lot are hatched out. I 
 never indulge in any such unnatural practices, but I allow 
 them to remain in the nest under the hen or goose who has 
 hatched them for a whole day and a night after the appear- 
 
BREBDINO AND REABIKO OEESE FOR EXHIBITION. 117 
 
 ance of the liist gosling. By this time all that are'of any 
 good will be hatched and are being nursed in such a 
 manner that cannot possibly be equalled by any amount 
 of artificial heat. The next day they may be removed to 
 the shed or coop provided for them and may be supplied 
 with their first meal and a bit of cut grass. Many people 
 seem to think that goslings are very little trouble and 
 expense as compared with other domestic poultry, but my 
 experience is somewhat different. I find it necessary to use 
 the best and most nutritious foods for very young goslings, 
 that is, if I wish them to attain to a very large size, or 
 arrive at a high state of perfection ; and as I am trying to 
 show beginners how to rear goslings for exhibition, I will 
 endeavour to explain the ways and means by which I have 
 succeeded during a long and successful experience. First, 
 do not be misled by writers who tell you that goslings are 
 the easiest creatures in the world to rear. Certainly they 
 can and do exist under circumstances which would prove 
 fatal to turkeys or many other varieties of poultry, but it 
 should be remembered that to exist is one thing, but to live 
 well is another. Prizes are not won uow-a-daya by animals 
 and birds of only ordinary merit. There are now so many 
 skilled breeders and exhibitors of most varieties that we 
 must have something extraordinary to be successful, and in 
 order to rear our birds to perfection we must use all fair and 
 legitimate means to get this extraordinary size, and that can 
 only be attained by a system of judicious feeding and 
 assiduous care and attention in every particular. It is also 
 essential they should have an abundance of fresh air, exer- 
 cise, and pure water to drink and swim in. A good house 
 well bedded with straw to lie upon at nights is another 
 important necessity. If goslings get a good start they 
 seldom look behind them, and they grow amazingly after 
 the first week or two. I have had goslings during the last 
 few years which, when only three weeks old, I found it 
 impossible to get the marking rings over their feet. I have 
 been surprised at the amount of bone they have made in so 
 short a time. 
 
 My first feed consists of hard boiled egg, a bit of suet, 
 and a few bread crumbs chopped up together. Of course 
 
118 BREEDING AND BEARING GEESE FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 there is, or ought to be modera,tion in the supply of such 
 highly nutritious food. Eggs and bread are only neces- 
 sary for the first three or four days. A liberal supply of 
 fine sharp grit and green food of some kind is absolutely 
 necessary from the first. This and sufficient clean water 
 to drink during the first week or ten days will be all they 
 require, and after that a swim will do them good ; but do 
 not drive them into the water, let them take to it on their 
 own accord. When the goslings are three or four days 
 old diminish the quantity of eggs or discontinue their 
 use altogether. I prefer giving for six or eight days a 
 hit of good, sound wheat, a few groats, or a bit of tip-top 
 barley once or twice daily affords a healthy change. 
 Now, as size is a great consideration, it will be beneficial 
 to give goslings that kind of food containing a large 
 percentage of. bone-making material. Fine sharps or 
 middlings, as it is often called, should be used along 
 with the biscuit meal. The advantages of this method of 
 feeding are many, especially if such a method is supple- 
 mented by good pasture. It is a mistake to suppose that 
 goslings will thrive as well on poor, coarse land as they 
 will do on rich, cultivated soil. 
 
 BREEDING GEESE FOR THE TABLE 
 OR MARKET PURPOSES ONLY. 
 
 In breeding goslings simply for the table or market 
 there vi'ill be no necessity for spending much money at 
 the commencement. Geese which have been forced to an 
 extraordinary size for the sake of -winning prizes are 
 neither necessary nor desirable for the production of 
 goslings for the niai-ket. !Now, although it is exceedinglj' 
 undesirable to have recourse to the over large exhibition 
 specimens for this purpose, it is most important that a 
 proper start should be made, and that suitable birds 
 should be selected in order to produce the best results 
 
BHKEDING GRESE FOB THE TABLE OR MARKET 119 
 
 PUKPOSKS ONIjY. 
 
 These can only be obtained by the use of strong, healthy, 
 well-matured parents, which should be of medium size, 
 
 If you prefer breeding from a cross, let that cross be 
 between two pure varieties. I would strongly advise 
 you to use an Einbden gander and Toulouse goose, or 
 vice versa, but the Toulouse being very much more prolific 
 layers than the Embdens, frequently lay double the 
 number of eggs in a season ; consequently they are the 
 best and most profitable to keep for this purpose ; and 
 as they do not evince a desire to sit nearly so soon as 
 the Embdens, their eggs may be set under hens, and 
 double the quantity of goslings may be hatched and 
 reared. Let me advise those who have already a good 
 class of common saddle-backs (grey-and- white) geese to 
 purchase a Toulouse or Embden gander to run with them, 
 for I am sure the result would be very satisfactory. 
 Either would increase the size and prolificacy of the 
 offspring. Spanish or Canadian ganders may be used 
 for crossing with other varieties, and such crosses are 
 generally very successful. 
 
 It should be remembered that the heavier your goslings 
 weigh, the greater will be the price in proportion. For 
 instance, a well-fed gosling, weighing 20 lbs., will realise 
 threepence per pound more than one weighing only 10 lbs. 
 
 Extraordinary good home-fed goslings always realise a 
 remunerative price. Where there is good convenience 
 for keeping geese, and they can obtain a large proportion . 
 of their food on the pastures and on the stubble, there is 
 no doubt that they can be made to pay a good return for 
 the money spent and the trouble bestowed upon them. 
 The stock, birds can be kept in a productive condition 
 much longer than any other variety of poultry ; in fact 
 they have been known to breed well at fifteen and up to 
 twenty years of age. 
 
 Old ganders are sometimes very pugnacious and ill- 
 tempered, and they are often very dangerous where there 
 are children, especially during the breeding season, 
 therefore it is well to keep a sharp eye on them during 
 
120 BUK£DING GKIOBE: fob the table OB MAliKET 
 PURPOSES ONIiY. 
 
 this period, or they may do serious damage to unsus- 
 pecting children. It is best to give these old ill-tempered 
 birds a wide berth, or to keep them in an enclosure 
 where the fence is sufficiently good to keep them within 
 their bounds. 
 
 An idea prevails with many farmers that any kind of 
 light grain or the poorest of pasturage will do for geese 
 and goslings. A greater mistake cannot be made ; and 
 those who breed and feed on a large scale know better, 
 and invariably make it a rule to use the best They 
 " Let the flock's good feed be the master's heed. What 
 at first he may cast will be doubled at last." The 
 Lincolnshire Chronicle for December, 1845, states that Mr. 
 K. Fuller, a poulterer of Boston, killed in one week for 
 the London Christmas market 2.400 geese, 1,000 ducks, 
 and 500 turkeys, which weighed altogether upwards of 
 twenty tons. Thousands of goslings are still sent from 
 various parts of the country to persons engaged in the 
 business of preparing them for the market, and this 
 business is carried on profitably, and to a very great 
 extent in the vicinity of London and Belfast. 
 
 The management of the birds by the great feeders is 
 carried on as it were by machinery ; with such regularity 
 and system, cleanliness and punctuality prevails, and as 
 soon as ever the birds are fit they are killed and marketed. 
 Well, now, if it is profitable to breed goslings and sell 
 them to these feeders, who also have to make a profit out 
 of them by the time they are ready for consumption, I 
 ask whether it would not pay the breeder considerably 
 better to keep his goslings until they were ready for the 
 market, and then send them direct to the nearest or best 
 market? Or, better still, where practicable, to sell them 
 direct to the consumer, and by doing so reap the whole 
 benefit of j'our own industry, and save the profits which 
 the middlemen under the present circumstances gain ? 
 
 I am quite aware that it is not always possible to avoid 
 dealing through middlemen, but such dealings should be 
 avoided as far as possible. Green geese are sent from the 
 
BRBUBING OEISSE FOB THE TABLK OB MAKKBT 121 
 
 PURP0SK8 ONLY. 
 
 southern counties to the London market very early in the 
 season, when they realise good prices. They are well fed 
 from the shell until they are about four mouths old, at 
 which time they pay the best return. The great secret of 
 rearing goslings profitably for the market is to keep them 
 going by feeding them well all the way from the shell to 
 the market, and as soon as ever they are ready let them 
 go, and do not keep them to eat their heads off. If 
 proper attention and good food is bestowed upon them 
 from the first there will be no necessity for any particular 
 course of fattening, for when they are big enough they 
 will be fat enough. Good fat goslings are always good to 
 sell, so that there need be no excuse for keeping them till 
 Christmas. Farmers having stubble and a quantity of 
 light corn can profitably afibrd to run goslings on to the 
 festive season Small keepers, who, I will suppose, have 
 no stubble, and have nearly all to buy for their birds, 
 must act very differently. They must make the most of 
 their goslings in the shortest time possible, or the balance 
 will most assuredly be on the wrong side. Goslings, as 
 a rule, have good appetites, and are capable of consuming 
 a large quantity of food, hence my reason for pushing 
 them on to the very end without a break. 
 
 Goose breeding and rearing may be carried on success- 
 fully and profitably by many farmers, without interfering 
 with other branches of farming industry. This can only 
 be effected by the observance of a few simple rules. In 
 the first place, judicious selection of breeding stock is 
 very important, for it is only large birds that will pay for 
 the trouble and expense of rearing, and as they eat very 
 little more than small ones the profit is considerably 
 greater. Secondly, goslings intended for an early market 
 must be as well fed and as comfortably housed as any 
 other class of live stock. Thirdly, they should be killed 
 and sold as soon as they are in the pink of condition for 
 the first time. If they are allowed to pass this stage, I 
 question very much whether they will ever pay as well, 
 if even they weigh a few pounds heavier. Last, but not 
 
122 BBEEOIKa GKIiSE FOR THE TABLE OR MAHKKT 
 
 rUKPOSBS ONLY. 
 
 the least rule to consider, is the best way to kill and 
 market your goslings. 
 
 There is a great diversity of opinion as to the best way 
 of killing geese. Some people are neither quick nor 
 merciful when performing this operation, and 1 think it 
 needless for me to describe many of the ways and means 
 adopted of taking the lives of geese, for some of them are 
 exceedingly cruel. The best way of killing a goose is 
 " iirst catch it," afterwards tie the legs together with a 
 piece of strong twine, then cross the wings to prevent it 
 from knocking abont. Drive a strong nail or have a hook 
 fixed in some convenient situation in the backyard •or in 
 au outhouse. Hang the goose up by the legs, the head 
 will then, as a matter of course, be downwards ; take a 
 short thick stick in your right hand, and strike a smart 
 but not heavy blow on the back of the head, which will 
 stun the bird for the time. Have a sharp penknife in 
 readiness, and the moment you have struck the blow 
 with the stick take up your penknife in your right hand, 
 hold the head of the goose with the left, then at once 
 proceed to stick the bird through the neck immediately 
 behind the extremity of the lower jaw. This should be 
 done with one thrust of the knife, and should cut the 
 main artery, or jugular vein, just in the same way as 
 a butcher would stick a sheep. 
 
 Geese killed in this manner frequently die without a 
 struggle, and so far as my experience goes, 1 have found it 
 the most expeditious and consequently the most merciful 
 method of taking their lives. Now that a goose has been 
 slain, the next thing to be done is to pluck it. This is 
 best done whilst the body is still warm, therefore no tima 
 should be lost, but as soon as ever life is extinct plucking 
 should be commenced and finished as soon as possible 
 The feathers should be selected as they are plucked, i.e., 
 all strong quills and secondaries shoiild be put in a 
 receptacle by themselves, and all the fine feathers and 
 down in another, for good goose feathers have still a 
 certain market value. Therefore they should be carefully 
 
BBEBDINCt GKBSK POB THR TABLK OR MARKET 123 
 
 PURPOSES ONLY. 
 
 selected and preserved whilst plucking is proceeding. 
 Should the goose in question be destined for market, it 
 should be put into shape as soon as it is plucked. 
 
 The legs and feet should be twisted on to the back and 
 the wings on to the shoulders. Tiie bird sliould then be 
 laid out in a cold place, with its breast upon a cold stone, 
 marble, or granite slab. A cold brick may be placed on 
 each side to keep it straight. Then place a flat board 
 across the top of the back. By this means your goose 
 will assume a nice plump appearance by the time it is 
 thoroughly cool and ready to be packed for the market. 
 If, however, the goose is intended for consumption at 
 home, it should be hung up by the legs in a cool place 
 until it is required by the cook. This latter plan making 
 the flesh more tender and a better colour. The next thing 
 to be done before sending to market is the "packing." 
 This is by no means the least important part of the 
 business. Carelessness in packing has often resulted in 
 undoing and ruining the work of months' previous indus- 
 try. Hampers for packii^ geese or poultry of any kind 
 for market should be strong and firm. They should be 
 just the size required — neither too large nor too small — 
 as either would be likely to bi'uise the skin and make 
 them unsightly. As each layer of geese is placed in the 
 hamper a piece of cheap calico or a sheet of clean white 
 paper should be thrown over them, and all the spaces 
 well filled up with sweet hay. Another sheet of paper 
 or a piece of cotton should be placed on the top of the 
 packing before the next layer of geese is put into the 
 hamper. Every crevice should be well filled in with 
 paclcing to guard against the possibility of shaking about 
 in transit. The quickest route is certainly the best by 
 which to send geese to market. They never improve on 
 a journey. The sooner they can be conveyed from the 
 homestead to their destination the greater will be the 
 chance of obtaining a good price for them. The sooner 
 they are unpacked the better they will look and greater 
 will be the returns. 
 
124 
 
 DISEASES. 
 
 I SHALL not attempt to deal with the cure of diseases in 
 Ducks and Geese, but content mj-self with trying to 
 show my readers how to prevent diseases from visiting their 
 little flocks. 
 
 CRAMP. — Cramp in Ducklings is the most fatal of 
 all diseases to which Waterfowl are subject. It is the fore- 
 runner of either death, defonnity, or imperfection for life.- — 
 It is frequently caused by improper feeding and coddling, 
 and by keeping them upon damp stone floors, or on the damp 
 ground at night. Feeding on improper food, and being de- 
 prived of green food, grit, and water to swim in is often the 
 cause of indigestion, which in many cases is the immediate 
 cause of Cbamp. 
 
 The Chop of ~ the Duck is intended by nature to prepare 
 the food for the gizzai-d to grind, when thoroughly mixed 
 with the ingredients which digest it, therefore it should be 
 remembered that it is absolutely necessary, especially when 
 using an extra quantity of soft food, to supply your birds 
 with an abundance of grit and green food, to keep their di- 
 gestive organs in proper working order. 
 
 Cramp is the most manifest symtom of other diseases. — 
 The digestive organs once weakened, general debility follows 
 upon the slightest provocation. Over crowding, damp floors, 
 and improper food are the chief causes of cramp. Ducks 
 and Geese, like most other birds and animals, are invigorated 
 by fresh air and water. Their limbs and muscles must have 
 exercise, and if a proper system of " Housing and Feeding' 
 be carried out, there will be no Cramp. 
 
DISEASES. 125 
 
 Prevention is better than cure, and I would prefer 
 setting another batch of eggs and rearing a fresh lot of 
 ducks or geese than I would attempt to cure one single 
 bird of cramp, for they are seldom good for anything if 
 even they appear to be cured. Therefore I would advise 
 the cause to be removed. Make their house dry and com- 
 fortable, especially the floor. Observe perfect cleanliness 
 in all your arrangements, and let your ducks and geese 
 have liberty, water, and exercise, then you will effect 
 more than can be done by any medical treatment. 
 
 SOFT EGGS. — Waterfowl are sometimes trouble- 
 some during winter and early spring by laying soft eggs, 
 which of course are of no use for iccnbatioa. To prevent 
 these soft eggs, always place within easy reach of your 
 birds an abundant supply of old mortar, burnt oyster 
 shells, shell gravel, ashes, &c. ; and if you have a stream, 
 and the flow of water is not a very large one, throw a 
 lump of fresh lime into it onca or twice a wgek, or if you 
 have a pond, put a few lumps of lime in it, and do not 
 overfeed, and do not give them any animal food at all if 
 you are troubled with soft eggs. 
 
 EGG-BOUND. — This is very rare in young birds, 
 •although it .does occur sometimes. The best way to 
 prevent this is to feed your birds well and wisely. Good 
 sound food of a nutritious, but not a fatty, nature Let 
 them have plenty of exercise. 
 
 GIDDINESS, or STAGGERS.— A recent 
 writer tells use that a duckling's skull is so very thin that 
 the sun seems to affect the brain very soon, and still he 
 tells us that ducklings will do as well without water as 
 with it for ten weeKs. Such statements are enough to 
 
12G DISKASES. 
 
 make us ask the question— ^Did that wiilei- ever keep n 
 duck ? Or has some one told him that ducks will do as 
 well without water as with it. If my readers wish to 
 avoid giddiness, staggers, leg weakness, liver diseases, and 
 many other ailments incidental in duck-keeping, they 
 will do well to give their birds a reasonable supi)ly of 
 sound food, plenty of fresh air, exercise, and clean water 
 to drink and swim in, together with a comfortable house 
 to sleep in and a good bed of clean straw to lie upon. 
 If you attend to my remarks in this article, vendors of 
 medicine for ducks, etc., will not make a fortune, for 
 there will be no medicine required. 
 
 Should you by accident have a bird cut or torn in any 
 way, the wound should be dressed with Condy's Fluid or 
 Carbolized Oil, and if necessary the wound may be sewn 
 up with s fine needle and silk ; but unless the bird is a 
 valuable one, kill it in preference. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Preface 
 
 Introduction . . 
 
 Souses for Breeding Ducks 
 
 Duck Houses and Enclosures 
 
 Ponds . . 
 
 How to begin and Selection of Stock 
 
 Modern Aylesbury Ducks 
 
 Schedule for Judging do. 
 
 Modern Rouen Ducks . . 
 
 Colour of Drake (Rouen) 
 
 Do. Ducks 
 Schedule for Judging Rouen Drakes 
 
 Do. do. Ducks 
 
 Modern Pekin Ducks 
 Schedule for Judging ditto 
 The Cayuga Duck 
 Schedule for Judging ditto 
 Indian Runner ... 
 Schedule for Judging Indian Runner Ducks 
 Breeding and Treatment of Breeding Stock 
 Incubation 
 Breeding and Rearing Ducklings for Exhibition . . 
 
 Do, do. for Market 
 
 Method of Killing 
 How to Treat Ducks when Moulting 
 
 Preparing and Keeping Ducks in Condition for Exhibition 
 Trimming 
 Exhibiting 
 
 Transit 
 
 Penning 
 
 Cramming 
 The Question of Profits— 1st Tear 
 Do. 2nd Year 
 
 Do. 3rd Year 
 
 Geese . . 
 Do. Toulouse 
 Schedule for Judging ditto 
 Embden Geese . . 
 Schedule for Judging ditto 
 Breeding and Rearing Geese for Exhibition 
 Geese for Table and Market purposes 
 Diseases 
 
 PAGE 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 IS 
 
 15 
 
 . 21 
 
 . 2i 
 
 . 27 
 
 28 
 
 . 32 
 
 . 33 
 
 . 35 
 
 . 37 
 
 . 40 
 
 . 43 
 
 46 
 
 . 49 
 
 . 54 
 
 60 
 
 61 
 
 . 67 
 
 74 
 
 77 
 
 . 78 
 
 . 79 
 
 . 83 
 
 87 
 
 88 
 
 90 
 
 94 
 
 97 
 
 100 
 
 105 
 
 109 
 
 111 
 
 113 
 
 114 
 
 118 
 
 124 
 
ADVEUTISBMENTS. 
 
 AYLESBUIIY DUCKS. 
 
 THIS Champion strain won outright, in three 
 successive years, the first Ten - Guinea 
 Challenge Cup ever offered for the above variety. 
 
 Young birds bred by me in 1894 won the 
 highest honours at most of our English exhibi- 
 tions, including the Ten-Guinea Challenge Cup at 
 the Waterfowl Club Show, which was held at the 
 Crystal Palace; first, Dairy Show, Liverpool, etc. 
 
 Ducks and Geese bred by me have won up- 
 wards of 2,000 cups, medals, and money prizes 
 during the last ten years. Not only in England 
 have my stock been successful, but in Australia, 
 America, South Africa, New Zealand, and New- 
 foundland they have distinguished themselves 
 and their breeder. Hundreds of unsolicited 
 testimonials could be published in favour of 
 stock and eggs from these yards. The excellency 
 of my stock is so well known that further com- 
 ment is unnecessary. 
 
 Eggs for Hatching, 21/- for Eleven. 
 
 EXHIBITION AND STOCK BIRDS FOR SALE 
 at prices according to quality. 
 
 HENRY DIGhBY, 
 
 THE BURNE, BIRCHENCLIFFE, 
 
 HUDDERSFIELD. 
 
ADVKRTISEMBNTS. 
 
 Indian gunner Ducks. 
 
 PNRY DI6BY, 
 
 THE BURNE, BIRCHENCLIFFE, 
 HUDDERSFIELD, 
 
 Has the best strain of Fawn and White "Indian 
 Runner" Ducks in England. 
 
 Advertiser has only shown this variety once 
 this year, (1897), viz.: at the Crystal Palace, 
 where his Indian Runners carried oiF four firsts 
 and two second prizes, also the cup for the 
 best bird of this variety. 
 
 H. D. is also the breeder of the first and 
 second prize Dairy winners, and also the 
 breeder of the two first prize winners at 
 
 Birmingham, 1897. 
 
 STOCK OR EXHIBITION BIRDS 
 ALWAYS FOR SALE. 
 
 Eggs in Season, 10/6 for Eleven. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 EAST OF ENGLAND 
 
 Live Stock and Poultry Farms 
 
 THUXTON, NORFOLK, 
 
 Headquarters for High-olasa Exhibition and Breeding Pens of all Varieties 
 of Prize Poultry. Ducks, Geese, Turkeys, and Bantams. 
 
 By far the Largest and Oldest Breeding Establishment 
 in the World, 
 
 More Cups, Medals, Diplomas, and Prizes have been won by 
 Birds 'From these Yards than any other two Yards put together. 
 Our strains are noted for their wonderful Laying Qualities, 
 
 BIRDS OF ALL VARIETIES FOR SALE, 
 FROM 7/6 EACH, 
 
 Eggs for Setting in Season, Guaranteed Fertile, and fror 
 same Birds as wre breed from ourselves. 
 
 Before Purchasing elsewhere send for our Illustrated Descriptive Cataloffue, 
 ctntaining List of Prizes and Testimony from Customers in oil parts of the 
 World. Free on application, ^pply — 
 
 Abbot Brothers. 
 
ADVERTIBKMBNTS. 
 
 WM. BYGOTT 
 
 Has always on hand 
 
 limim MM BUCKS 
 
 — AND — 
 
 TOULOUSE GEESE. 
 
 THE Cups, Specials, and Medals won annually by his 
 EOUENS at all the leading exhibitions, including 
 The Eoyal Agricultural Society of England's Shows, 
 London Dairy Shows, Crystal Palace, and Birmingham, 
 and the high prices of ten, fifteen, twenty, and twenty-five 
 pounds each realized by a score of noted winners, including 
 Challenge Cup Ducklings, is a sufficient proof of the in- 
 trinsic value of these strains. 
 
 "W. B. can always supply Drakes and Ducks unrelated, 
 as they are bred in several companies. Many noted 
 breeders and exhibitors having had their stocks from these 
 yards for seyeral years now, with exceptionally good 
 results, both as regards breeding and exhibiting. 
 
 -G^:^^^^^^ 
 
 RYEHILL FARM, ULCEBY, 
 Li3srooi-.isrsi3:ii?.E_ 
 
ADVEBTISEMKNT8. 
 
 CHAMPION 
 
 WHITE LEGHORNS. 
 
 J. A. CHEETI(A»(, 
 
 OAKLAKDS, BRIGHOUSE, 
 YORKSHIRE. 
 
 DURING the last ten years birds from this 
 yard have been awarded the highest 
 possible honours at all the best Shows. The 
 following are a few of the awards ; — 
 
 The White Leghorn Ten-Guinea Challenge 
 Cups, eight times ; Four cups, Crystal Palace, and 
 medal three times for best Leghorn in the Show; 
 Three cups, Dairy Show, and twice medal for best 
 Leghorn ; The Leghorn Fanciers' Club Gold 
 Medal for best White Leghorn, three times ; and 
 Cups Birmingham, Liverpool, Bingley, Halifax, 
 etc. ; Gold, Silver, and Bronze Medals too 
 numerous to mention. 
 
 High-elass birds for Stock or Exhi- 
 bition purposes always for Sale, and 
 Eggs in Season. 
 
 Prices on application. 
 
ADVESTISEUENTS. 
 
 JOSEPH PARTINGTON, 
 
 THE WOODLANDS, 
 LYTHAM, 
 
 BREEDER AND EXHIBITOR OF HIGH-CLASS 
 
 RODEN DUCKS, 
 
 BUFF and WHITE COCHINS, 
 
 SINGLE and ROSE COMBED ORPINGTONS, 
 
 GOLD and SILVER ROLANDS, 
 
 Has always for disposal birds of each variety, 
 either for Exhibition or Stock purposes, at prices 
 according to quality. 
 
 Rouen Ducks from these yards have had a 
 most successful career during the last twelve 
 years, having won the Cup at the Crystal Palace 
 and Birmingham twelve years in succession, and 
 three Ten-Guinea Challenge Cups outright ; 
 besides Cups, Medals, &c., too numerous to 
 mention, at most of the leading Shows in the 
 United Kingdom. 
 
 INSPECTION OF BIRDS AND YARDS INVITED 
 BY APPOINTMENT. 
 
ADVEBTISIMENT. 
 
 MRS. F. DAVIS, 
 
 Breeder and Exhibitor of 
 HIGH CLASS 
 
 Pekin and Cayuga Ducks, 
 
 Has always birds for disposal at prices according 
 to quality, either for stock or exhibition. 
 
 Birds from this yard have succeeded in 
 winning the highest honours for the above 
 varieties, including the Challenge Cup at Liver- 
 pool, Cups Crystal Palace, and First and Special 
 Prizes too numerous to mention. 
 
 Address — 
 
 WOOLASHILL, 
 
 PERSHORE. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 VINCENT G. HUNTLEY, 
 
 INNOX MILLS, 
 
 BREEDER AND EXHIBITOR OF 
 HIGH -CLASS 
 
 IJOUEN DUCKS. 
 
 Has always for Sale birds of either sex, 
 suitable for Exhibition or Stock purposes, at 
 prices according to quality. 
 
 Eggs for Hatching in Season. 
 
 Foreign orders promptly attended to. 
 
 PRICES AND PARTICULARS ON 
 APPLICATION. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 NINE FIRST PRIZES. 
 
 FIVE GOLD MEDALS, 
 
 SILVER & BRONZE MEDALS 
 
 HAVE BEEN AWARDED THESE 
 
 The Most Perfect Appliances for Hatching 
 and Rearing. 
 
 WESTMERlflNCUBATOR 
 
 THE 108-EGG SIZE. 
 
 FOR 56, 108 & 216 EGGS. 
 
 Hatched at the Royal Show 89 per Cent. 
 , ,, Dairy Show 93 per Cent. 
 
 "It Hatched all the Duck Eggs put in."- Siit 
 
 FlllCDKrilCK MUSGRiVE, EDBN HALL, 
 CnUBBIILiND. 
 
 "I am more than siitisfled."— Henuy Dihbt, 
 Efq., Huddehsfield. 
 
 The WE8TMERIA BROODER 
 
 ' Xo one havlnj? tried it 
 will use any other.', — 
 
 'J'nE DUCBBSS OF 
 WELLTNGTOy. 
 
 ' The most perfect I 
 know."- Ladt Phil- 
 IjIMOUB, Botlby. 
 Hampshiue, 
 
 '•By far the beat. No 
 Exhibitor should be 
 without one." — G-. H. 
 PiiocTOR, Esq., 
 Durham. 
 
 SEND PENNY STAMP FOR COMPLETE LISTS. 
 
 lestmeria Co., Leightflij Buzzard, 
 
 ENGLAND 
 
ADTBBTISEENT8, 
 
 B AIVTA]Nd :8. 
 
 MRS. ENTWISLE, 
 
 Breeder and Exhibitor of the 
 
 HIGHEST-CLASS BANTAMS, 
 
 Always has for Sale some Exhibition and Stock birds 
 of the following varieties :— 
 
 GAME BANTAMS, 
 
 Black-Red, Brown-Red, Pile, Duckwing and 
 Birchen- Grey. 
 
 PEKIN BANTAMS. 
 
 Buff, Partridge, White, and Black. 
 Also ftED MALAYS and SEBRIGHTS. 
 
 Prices according to quality. 
 
 Special attention given to Foreign orders. 
 Birds can be seen by appointment. 
 Address — 
 
 Mr. J. F. ENTWISLE, 
 
 Calder Grove House, 
 
 Near WAKEFIELD. 
 
 "BANTAMS." 
 
 By W. F. ENTWISLE. 
 
 THE RECOGNISED STANDARD WORK. 
 
 illustrated by LUDLOW. 
 
 Crown 4-10., Bound Cloth, Gold Lettered. 
 
 6/- Post Free, from 
 MISS ENTWISLE, 
 
 CALDER GROVE HOUSE, 
 
 Near WAKEFIELD. 
 
ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 CPW[ PI0N INDIAN GAP. 
 
 ^yy^M, BRENT, 
 
 CLAMPET FARM, CALLINGTON, 
 
 CORNWALL, 
 
 Has always a large number of reliable birds for Show 
 and Stock purposes on sale, and Eggs in season. 
 
 The strain is noted for their great size, shape, 
 colour, and lacings, and 25 years careful breeding. 
 Many thousands of prizes have been won by birds 
 bred in these yards, at the best shows in the kingdom. 
 (The owner himself having won Cups, Medals, and 
 Money prizes with 62 different birds, from September 
 i8g6 to September 1897). Exports have been made 
 U.S.A., Canada, New Zealand, Australia, Africa, &c. 
 
 SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 
 
 The Rev. HAROLD BDRTON, 
 
 FAULS VICARAGE, 
 FREES Near WHITCHURCH. 
 
 Breeder and Exhibitor of High-class 
 
 LIGHT BEAHMAS, 
 
 Has always for sale Stock or Exhibition birds 
 at prices according to quality. The reputation of 
 the birds annually bred in these yards is so well 
 known that comment is unnecessary. 
 
 EGGS IN SEASON. 
 
 PRICES ON APPLICATION, 
 
AllVKIiTISEJrENTS. 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER WYANDOTTES, 
 
 BARRED ROCKS, 
 
 ROSECOMB BANTAMS, 
 AND ALL VARIETIES OF HAMBURGHS. 
 
 Address — 
 
 EARBT, COLNE. 
 
^DVEBTISBMKNTS. 
 
 Pigeon Markiiig Coiiference Ijiogs, 
 
 Registered No. 182427. 
 
 Price, 1/9 per doz. ; 18/- per gross, consecutively 
 numbered to 144. 
 
 Poultry Marking Conference Ijings, 
 
 FOR EVERY VARIETY OF POULTRY. 
 
 later-fowl Club Ijings, 
 Pedigree Rings, 
 
 Registered No. 181730. 
 
 Suitable for every variety of Pigeon, Poultry, and 
 
 Water-Fowl. 
 
 Send stamp Jor illustrated and descriptive price list. 
 
 Inventor and Sole Manufacturer — 
 
 HENRY ALLSOP, 
 
 89, SPENCER STREET, 
 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
A DVJIiHTISflW KNT8 . 
 
 diampion Browii Legtiorns. 
 
 JOHN HURST, 
 
 GLOSSOP, 
 
 Breeder of ten Challenge Cup winners. The 
 only winner outright of both Challenge Cups in 
 three consecutive years. The Leghorn Fanciers' 
 Club's Gold Medal (twice). Cups, Palace, Dairy, 
 Birmingham, &c. 
 
 BIRDS FOR SALE. 
 
 JOHN lATHARTON, 
 
 HONEYCOTT, HAWES, 
 YORKSHIRE. 
 
 BREEDER OF BUFF, PARTRIDGE AND 
 BUFF-LACED WYANDOTTES. 
 
 J. W. was the first to breed Bafif Wyandottes 
 in England, and has won highest honours at all 
 the largest shows, including Firsts, Crystal 
 Palace, Dairy, Birmingham, &c. 
 
 Stock and Exhibition birds always on Sale. 
 Fofcign Buyers liberally treated. 
 
AD VERTrSKM .:,NTS. 
 
 IF YOU WISH TO SUCCEED 
 
 IN 
 
 DUCK BREEDINQ, 
 
 USE 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT 
 
 POULTRY MEAL. 
 
 In Sealed Bags, and 3d. and id.. Sample Packets. Per cwt. 20s., per 
 half-owt. 10s. 6d., per quarter owt. 5s. 6d., per 14-lb. 2s. 9d., per 7-lb. 
 Is 6d. 
 
 Give during Severe Weather increased proportion of 
 
 Graijulated 
 
 A Preparation of Meat taking tlie place of Insect Food. 
 
 See you get it in Sealed Bags. 
 
 Per owt. 26r., per ha'f-cwt. 13s. 6d., per quarter-owt. 7s., per 14-lb. 
 3s. ad., per 7-lb. Is. Ud. Samples post free. 
 
 thecommon-sense^ofToultry keeping 
 
 3d. Post Free. 
 
 Contains full and practical information on Poultry Rearing. 
 Housing, Feeding, and Diseases 
 
 OF ALL DEALERS, OR OF 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT LIMITED, 
 
 BERMONDSEY, LONDON, S.E. 
 
ADVERTISKMKNTS. 
 
 SPRATTS PATENT 
 
 MANUFACTURERS, BERMONDSEY, 
 LONDON, S.E. 
 
 Baskets for Ducks and Geese made of 
 the best White Wicker-work. 
 
 UPRIGHT SHOW BASKETS. 
 
 Diameter at top 'Depth Price 
 No. 14 l"or Ducks (Bound wliole lii). Ift. 6in. 3/6 lined 
 
 ,, 16 Por Geese ifr. lin. '.... 2ft. lin. . 5/- ,. 
 
 ,,. 16 For Turkeys 2£c. Sin 2£t. Sin. 6/- ,, 
 
 ,, IT „ 2ft. Sin. ... 2£t.3in. 6/0 „ 
 
 DOUBLE SHOW 
 BASKETS. 
 
 No, 22 For Ducks, lined ... 12/6 
 
 ) 23 „ „ larger 14/6 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 Duck Houses, Troughs, Baths, &c., also Poultry 
 
 Houses, Pigeon Cotes, Aviaries, and 
 every Appliance for the Poultry Yard and Kennel. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS, POST FREE.