Cornell Hmwmtg pfcrarg THE GIFT OF .A.Z6-l5.3.b Zb.jlCjAZ. 1357 Cornell University Library HD9854 .A5 1900 Manufactures, 3 1924 032 482 766 olin overs Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924032482766 CENSUS REPORTS TWELFTH CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES, TAKEN IN THE YEA~R 1900 WILLIAM R. MERRIAM, DIRECTOR MANUFACTURES TEXTILES PREPARED UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF S. N. D. NORTH, CHIEF STATISTICIAN FOR MANUFACTURES WASHINGTON UNITED STATES CENSUS OFFICE TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. Letter of transmittal of chief statistician for manufactures to the Director of the Census ix Combined textiles. By Edward Stan wood 1-16 The textile inMslry of the United Slates 3-16 General discussion 3, 4 The position of the United States among nations in the manufacture of textiles 4-8 Table 1. — Domestic products, exports, imports, and consumption, 1870 to 1900 5 A general survey of the textile industry 8, 9 Table 2. — Comparative summary, by industries, 1850 to 1900 8 Table 3. — Per cent of increase in average number of wage-earners and in value of products, 1850 to 1900 . 9 Number of establishments 9 The general growth in twenty years 9, 10 Table 4. — Comparative summary, 1880 to 1900, with percentages of increase 10 Capital invested •. 10, 11 Table 5. — Comparative summary of capital, 1840 to 1900 10 Cost of materials and value of products 11, 12 Table 6. — Cost of materials and value of products, 1890 and 1900 11 Table 7. — Comparative summary, value of products, 1810 to 1900 11 Consumption of textile fibers 12 Table 8.— Consumption of textile fibers, 1840 to 1900 12 Employees and their wages 12, 13 Table 9. — Average number of wage-earners and total wages, by industries, 1900 12 Table 10. — Average number of wage-earners and proportion of men, women, and children, 1880 to 1900 13 Geographic distribution .. 13-16 Table 11. — Comparative summary, by states arranged geographically, 1880 to 1900 14, 15 Cotton manufactures. By Edward Stanwood 17-72 General discussion 19-21 The foreign trade in cotton goods 21-26 Table 1. — Annual imports of manufactures of cotton, 1821 to 1900, inclusive 21, 22 Table 2. — Annual exports of manufactures of cotton, 1826 to 1900, inclusive 23, 24 Table 3. — Annual exports of foreign manufactures of cotton, 1821 to 1900, inclusive 25, 26 The general progress of the industry 27-72 Table 4. — Comparative summary, 1840 to 1900, with percentages of increase 27 Table 5. — Combined summary, cotton goods and cotton small wares, 1900, with percentages .. 27 Geographic distribution of the industry 28-30 Table 6. — Number of spindles in cotton mills within 30 miles of Providence, R. I 30 Capital 30, 31 Table 7.— Capital, by geographic divisions, with per cent of increase, 1890 arid 1900 30 Table 8.— Comparison of capital of corporations, as reported at census, by states and geographic divisions, 1900 31 Employees and wages 31-33 Table 9.— Average number of wage-earners— men, women, and children — by geographic divisions, 1880 to 1900 32 Table 10. — Wage-earners— percentage of men, women, and children — by geographic divisions, 1880 to 1900 32 Skilled operatives 33 Wages 33 Miscellaneous expenses 33 Table 11. — Comparative summary, miscellaneous expenses, 1890 and 1900 33 (iii) iv TABLE OF CONTENTS. Cotton manufactures— Continued. The general progress of the industry— Continued. Page. Materials used 33-38 Cotton 33,34 ' ' Other domestic ' ' cotton 34-36 Table 12.— Quantities of raw cotton produced, imported, exported, and retained for consumption, 1880 to 1900 35 Table 13. — Quantity and cost of domestic cotton, other than sea-island, consumed, by states geographically arranged, 1880 to 1900 35, 36 Sea-island cotton 36, 37 Egyptian cotton 37 Yarn purchased 37 Yarns other than cotton 37, 38 Other materials 38 Products 38, 39 Table 14.— Products of cotton mills in detail, 1890 and 1900 38 Materials and products twice reported ■ 39, 40 Dyeing and finishing 40 Table 15.— Dyeing and finishing in cotton mills and in independent establishments, 1900 40 Fineness of goods — average number of yarn 41, 42 Table 16. — Yarns spun, classified by grade, by states geographically arranged, 1890 and 1900 42 Power 42, 43 Machinery 43, 44 The progress of the industry as indicated by the number of spindles 44-48 Table 17. — Number of active cotton spindles in the textile industry, by states geographically arranged, 1890 and 1900 . . 45 Table 18. — Number of spindles in cotton mills, by states geographically arranged, 1880, 1890, and 1900 46 Table 19. — Number of frame spindles sold, January 1, 1890, to January 1, 1900. . . - 48 Consumption of cotton per spindle 48-50 Table 20. — Number of spindles to each wage-earner, and the amount paid for labor to each spindle, by states geo- graphically arranged, 1880 to 1900 49, 50 Looms 50-52 Table 21. — Number and classification of looms, by geographic divisions, 1890 and 1900 51 Table 22. — Number and capacity of spinning mills, weaving mills, and mills which do both spinning and weaving, by states geographically arranged, 1900 52 Mercerization , 52, 53 Table 23. — Comparative summary, cotton goods and cotton small wares, by states and territories geographically arranged, 1840 to 1900 ■ 54-59 Table 24. — Detailed summary, by states geographically arranged, 1900 60-69 Cotton small wares 70-72 Table 25.— Summary 70 Table 26.— Detailed summary, by states, 1900 71, 72 Wool manufactures, also hosiery and knit goods, shoddy, and fur hats. By William J. Battison 73-195 Table 1. — Wool manufacture, including hosiery and knit goods: comparative summary, 1880 to 1900, with percentages of increase 75 Table 2. — Wool manufacture, including hosiery and knit goods: comparative summary, educational, eleemosynary, and penal institutions, 1890 and 1900 ' 76 The wool manufacture 76-108 Table 3. — Comparative summary, 1850 to 1900 76 Conditions in 1900 77 Imports of wool 77, 78 Imports of wool goods 78 Bank of states in wool manufacture according to value of products 78, 79 Table 4.— Bank of states, by value of products, 1890 and 1900 78 Table 5. — Machinery of wool manufacture: 1880 to 1900 79 Carding mills - 79-82 Table 6. — Wool carding: comparative summary, by states, 1890 and 1900 80 Comparison of mills by sets of cards 81, 82 Table 7. — Number of mills according to sets of cards, 1890 and 1900 81 The card wool manufacture. 82, 83 Table 8. — Carding machinery: by states, 1870 to 1900 83 The worsted manufacture 83, 84 Table 9. — Number of combing machines, by states, 1870 to 1900 83 Spindles 84 Doubling spindles 84, 85 Productive capacity 85 Idle capital and machinery 85, 86 Table 10. — Idle capital and machinery, by states, 1900 85 Power : _ 86 Table 11.— Power and labor, 1880 to 1900 86 TABLE OF CONTENTS. v Wool manufactures, etc. — Continued. The wool manufacture — Continued. Page. Depreciation of plant 86, 87 Capital 87 Wage-earners and wages 87 Conditions of wage-earners . : 87 Materials used in the wool manufacture - 88-97 Table 12. — Kind, quantity, and cost of materials used, 1900 88 Net wool supply, foreign and domestic 88, 89 Domestic wool , 89 Imports of foreign wool, 1822 to 1900 89-91 The foreign sources of wool supplies 91 Class III wools and imports of, by countries of production -. 91 Class I wools and imports of, by countries of production 91, 92 Class II wools and imports of, by countries of production 92 Wools entered for consumption 92, 93 Table 13. — Wools entered for consumption in the United States, 1867 to 1900, by class, quantity, and value 92 Wool consumption '. 93, 94 Cotton and cotton yarns 94, 95 Shoddy 95 Average cost of scoured wool 95, 96 Dyestuffs and chemicals 96 Yarns, purchased 96, 97 Dyeing and finishing .> 97 Products 97-108 Gross and net values 97-99 Table 14. — Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1890 and 1900, with per cent of increase 98 Class I.— Woolen goods 99-101 Table 15. — Comparative summary, 1840 to 1900, with percentages of increase 99 Cloths, cassimeres, etc 100 Union or mixed goods for men's wear 100 Cotton warp goods 100 Flannels 100, 101 Blankets 101 Shawls 101 Woolen dress goods 101 Class II.— Worsted goods . . 101-104 Table 16. — Comparative summary, 1860 to 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade 102 Worsted cloths 102, 103 Dress goods 103 Worsted dress goods 103 Woolen dress goods 103, 104 Braids - 104 Flushes and pile fabrics 104 Class III. — Carpets and carpeting 104-107 Table 17. — Comparative summary, 1850 to 1900, with percentages of increase 105 Materials consumed : 106 Production 106, 107 Class IV.— Felt goods 107,108 Table 18. — Comparative summary, 1880 to 1900, with percentages of increase 107 Class V.— Wool bats 108 Table 19. — Comparative summary, 1880 to 1900, with percentages of increase . . 108 The fur hat manufacture 108-111 Table 20.— Summary for 1900 109 Process of manufacture and history 109-111 Wool scouring and wool pulling - Ill, 112 Table 21. — Wool scouring: summary for 1900 Ill Table 22.— Wool pulling: summary for 1900 _ Ill Shoddy manufacture 112-114 Table 23. — Comparative summary, 1860 to 1900, with percentages of increase 112 Table 24. — Comparative summary, by states, 1880 to 1900 113 Hosiery and knit goods 114-119 Table 25. — Comparative summary, 1850 to 1900, with percentages of increase 114 Establishments 114, 115 Capital - 115 Machinery 115, 116 Table 26. — Number and width of cards, by states, 1900 115 Table 27. — Number of mills according to sets of cards, 1890 and 1900 116 vi TABLE OF CONTENTS. Wool manufactures, etc. — Continued. Hosiery and knit goods — Continued. Page. Spindles 116 The industry by geographic divisions 117 New England and the Middle states 117 Western states '. 117 Southern states 117 Materials used 117, 118 Dyestuffs, chemicals, etc 118 Products 118,119 Table 28.— Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1890 and 1900 118, 119 Conclusion 119-121 Table 29. — Wool manufacture (excluding hosiery and knit goods) : comparative summary by states and territories arranged geographically, 1840 to 1900 122-129 Table 30. — Wool manufactures (excluding hosiery and knit goods) : summary by classes, 1900 130-137 Table 31. — Woolen goods: detailed summary by states, 1900 138-153 Table 32.— Worsted goods: detailed summary by states, 1900 154-157 Table 33. — Carpets and rugs, other than rag: detailed summary by states, 1900 157-160 Table 34.— Felt goods: detailed summary by states, 1900 160-162 Table 35.— Wool hats: detailed summary by states, 1900 162-163 Table 36. — Carding mills: detailed summary by states, 1900 164-169 Table 37. — Wool scouring: detailed summary by states, 1900 170 Table 38. — Wool pulling: detailed summary by states, 1900 171 Table 39.— Shoddy : detailed summary by states, 1900 172-175 Table 40.— Fur hats: detailed summary by states, 1900 176, 177 Table 41. — Hosiery and knit goods: comparative summary by states arranged geographically, 1850 to 1900 178-183 Table 42. — Hosiery and knit goods: detailed summary by states, 1900 184-195 Silk manufactures. By Franklin Allen 197-233 Table 1. — Comparative summary, 1850 to 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade 199 Table 2. — Summary of establishments with a product exceeding $500 and those with a product of less than $500 200 Materials and products twice included 200-202 Table 3. — Elimination of materials and products twice included, by states, 1890 and 1900 200 Imports and consumption of silk and silk goods 202, 203 Table 4. — Comparative summary of imported silk materials, and of imported and domestic manufactured silk goods, 1850 to 1900 202 Materials and products, 1890 and 1900 203-209 Table 5. — Comparative summary of materials and products, 1890 and 1900 203 Table 6. — Comparative summary of materials, 1890 and 1900 204 Sewing silk and machine twist 205 Broad silk weaving 205-208 Table 7. — Broad silk weaving mills, classified by number of looms, 1900 206 Velvets 206,207 Plushes 207, 208 Table 8. — Silk broad goods manufactured, 1900 207 Table 9. — Velvet and plush weaving mills, classified by number of looms, 1900 208 Silk ribbons -. 208 Table 10. — Silk ribbon weaving mills, classified by number of looms, 1900 208 Throwing spindles - 208, 209 Table 11. — Mills classified by number of throwing spindles, 1900 208 Finished silk goods 209 Comparative statistics by states . . 209, 210 Table 12. — Comparative summary, by states, 1880, 1890, and 1900 210 Capital - 211 Table 13. — Comparative summary of capital, by states, 1890 and 1900 211 Wage-earners and operatives employed 212, 213 Table 14. — Comparative summary of wage-earners, by states, 1870 to 1900 212 Table 15. — Wage-earners classified by occupation, by states, 1900 212 Counties leading in silk manufacture 213 Table 16. — Counties manufacturing products exceeding $1,000,000 in value, 1900 213 Braids and trimmings .- 213, 214 Table 17. — Summary by states, with cost of textile materials, classified by principal textile components, 1900 213, 214 Skein dyeing, piece dyeing, printing, and finishing 214-216 Table 18. — Skein dyeing in silk mills and dyeing plants, for silk manufacture, by states, 1900 214 Table 19.— Piece dyeing in silk mills and dyeing plants, for silk manufacture, by states, 1900 214 Table 20. — Silk printing in silk mills and silk-printing plants, for silk manufacture, by states, 1900 215 Table 21.— Silk finishing in silk mills and silk-finishing plants, for silk manufacture, by states, 1900 215 Skein dyeing 215, 216 Piece dyeing, printing, and finishing 216 Silk printing 216 TABLE OF CONTENTS. vii Silk manufactures — Continued. Page. Capacity of American mills 216, 217 Relative position of France and the United States 217, 218 World's raw silk supply 218, 219 Table 22. — World's production of raw silk, in kilograms and in pounds 218 Detailed statistics of silk manufacture 219 Historical and descriptive 220-225 General survey 220-222 Improvements in throwing and weaving machinery 222-224 Throwing 222, 223 Weaving 223, 224 Date of the establishment of the silk industry in cities, towns, etc 224, 225 Table 23. — Silk and silk goods, including braids and trimmings, detailed summary, by states, 1900 226-233 Flax, hemp, and jute products. By Edward Stanwood 235-242 Table 1.— Comparative summary, 1890 and 1900 237 Table 2.— Summary by states, 1900 237 Table 3. — Kind, quantity, and cost of materials used, 1900 238 Table 4. — Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1900 238 Cordage and twine 238, 239 Table 5.— Comparative summary, 1880 to 1900 238 Table 6. — Kind, quantity, and cost of materials used, 1900 239 Table 7. — Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1900 239 Jute and jute goods v 239, 240 Table 8.— Summary, 1900 239 Table 9. — Kind, quantity, and cost of materials used, 1900 240 Table 10. — Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1900 240 Linen manufacture 240, 241 Table 11.— Comparative summary, 1890 and 1900 240 Table 12. — Kind, quantity, and cost of materials used, 1900 240 Table 13. — Kind, quantity, and value of products, 1900 240 Table 14. — Flax, hemp, and jute products: detailed summary, by states, 1900 241, 242 Dyeing and finishing textiles. By Edward Stanwood 243-257 Table 1. — Comparative summary, 1850 to 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade 246 Table 2. — Comparative summary, by states, 1890 and 1900 247 Table 3. — Comparative summary, kinds and quantity of goods operated upon, and value added by independent establishments, 1890 and 1900 248 Table 4. — Summary by classes of textiles, 1900 250,251 Table 5.^Detailed summary, by states, 1900 252-257 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Department of the Interior, Census Office, Washington, D. C, July 31, 1902. Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith the text and tables of a special report upon the textile industries of the United States, as returned at the Twelfth Census. Reports upon these industries were prepared under my direction by expert special agents of the division of manufactures, as follows: Upon combined textiles; cotton manufactures; flax, hemp, and jute products; and dyeing and finishing textiles, by Mr. Edward Stanwood; upon wool manufactures, by Mr. William J. Battison; and upon silk manufactures, by Mr. Franklin Allen. In view of the importance of the industry, the several branches of which have been presented in separate bulletins, it is deemed advisable to bring together these several reports and publish them as a monograph, thus presenting as a separate publication the complete statistics of the textile industries of the country. Very respectfully, Hon. William R. Merrtam, Director of the Census. MON TEXT II Chief /Statistician for Manufactures. (ix) TEXTILES. COMBINED TEXTILES. COTTON MANUFACTURES. WOOL MANUFACTURES. SILK MANUFACTURES. FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS. DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. (i) MON TEXT 1 THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY OF THE UNITED STATES. By Edward Stanwood, Expert Special Agent. Not only is the textile industry one of the most im- portant branches of manufacture in this country and throughout the world, but its product comes into an especially intimate and personal relation to mankind because it is the material from which clothing is com- monly made. It appears from the returns at the census of 1900 that the grand total value of textiles and of finished articles made from them was $1,637,484,484. The sum is swelled by duplications. Yarn produced in one mill and entering into this total is reported by another mill as a material; and the woven cloth of the second mill, after having been reported as that mill's product, enters the tailor shop or the shirt factory as material once more. Eliminating duplications, by ex- cluding from materials and products the value of the partly manufactured articles, the net value of products ready for direct consumption was $1,095,127,934. Of this huge total, $740,666,942, or over two-thirds of the whole, was the net value of the textile industry proper. The various ' branches of the textile industry — the production of yarn, and its conversion, by doubling and twisting, by weaving, or by knitting — are so closely allied to each other that it is impossible radically to separate them. They may be divided sufficiently for practical purposes according to the processes employed, or, as is more customary, according to the vegetable or animal fiber which predominates in the manufacture. But it still remains true that several of the processes and different groups of these processes are combined, and that there is extensive use of two or more fibers in single establishments. A great number, in fact a large majority, of cotton-spinning factories, also weave their yarn; some of them twist and finish it into sewing thread, others knit it and make underwear. Some of them combine cotton with linen in the manufacture of towels. Many woolen and worsted mills mix cotton with wool in the production of cloth. Both cotton and woolen mills occasionally use large quantities of raw silk. Jute yarn is introduced as an adulterant in up- holstery goods chiefly composed of more enduring material. The manufacturers of cordage and twine employ not only flax, hemp, jute, cotton, and other vegetable fibers, but also, to a limited extent, wool and silk. While, therefore, it is a simple matter to classify mills according to the general nature of their business or according to the fiber chiefly used, yet it is evident that the textile industry is to be considered as a whole. A freak of fashion may at any time cause an excessive demand for silk goods, to the detriment of the manu- facturers of worsteds. A scarcity of cotton, like that which occurred during the Civil War, may compel peo- ple to change their habits and use woolen products instead of cotton. It is easy to substitute articles made from another fiber than that to which one has been ac- customed; indeed, within certain limits, it is easy for manufacturers to operate machinery upon another fiber than that for which it was constructed; so that the tex- tile industry can be treated adequately only when it is treated as a unit, based upon the spindle. This method of considering the textile branch of manufacturing was first introduced at the Eleventh Census. It is now even more reasonable than it was ten years ago, because during the interval certain new combinations of fiber use have rendered the relations between the several industries more intimate than they were. As examples, may be mentioned the production in several large cotton mills of towels and toweling from pure linen or from linen and cotton mixed, and the use in silk mills of mercerized cotton so like silk in appearance. These new features preceded the tak- ing of the census by so short a time that an adequate inquiry into the facts was not made in all cases, particu- larly with reference to the extent of the new linen industry. Ten years ago the report upon combined textiles took cognizance only of the manufactures of wool — including hosiery and knit goods, cotton and silk — and dyeing and finishing the yarns and fabrics made from them. In the present report the chief industries based upon flax, hemp, and jute are included. Other important changes will be noticed. At the census of 1900 there was, for the first time, a separation of cotton small wares from cotton goods proper. The establishments which manufacture such articles as tape and webbings, shoe lacings, embroider- ies, and the like, are not in a true sense cotton factories. Few of them spin their yarn; the machinery which they employ differs materially from that of ordinary cotton mills, and they are for the most part small establish- ments. They belong in the general class of textile manufactories, but not in the specific category of cot- ton mills. It is proper to restore to the leading rank the cotton manufacture, which was displaced from that position during the Civil War, and has occupied the second (3) MANUFACTURES. rank in official statistics ever since, mainly because it stood second in the value of products. But it is evident that the reason why the nominal value of wool products exceeded that of cotton products was that the cost of material, pound for pound, is several times that of cotton. At present the cotton manufacture, exclusive of cotton small wares, stands first in the amount of capital, in the number of hands employed, in the amount of wages paid, and even in the value of products; but it is still slightly behind the wool manufacture in the cost of material used. The tables accompanying this report do not include all the establishments which it might be strictly reason- able to include as manufacturing textiles. The facts relating to those which make belting and hose of either linen or cotton mixed with rubber, elastic fabrics, batting, and wadding, and a few other articles of which these are types, were ascertained by answers to the inquiries upon the general manufacturing schedule and were too incomplete in their specification of mate- rials used to be included in the accompanying tables without danger of misleading results. The several industries here presented are as follows: Cotton goods. Cotton small wares. Worsted goods. Woolen goods. Woolen carpets. Felt goods. Wool hats. Hosiery and knit goods. Silk goods. Cordage and twine. Linen goods. Jute goods. Dyeing and finishing textiles. The value of product reported is in all cases the gross value at the mill, save that in the case of dyeing and finishing only the value added by the processes to which the goods were subjected is reported. THE POSITION OF THE UNITED STATES AMONG NATIONS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILES. In the manufacture of textiles the progress of this country as compared with that of the world at large has been very great in recent years. In general, manufacturers may be said to have been engaged during the whole national history in conquering and occupying the home market. The domestic silk in- dustry is a thing of yesterday. In 1870 the home manufacture represented a value of only 112,210,662. The foreign value of importations during the same year was $24,219,981. It appears from these figures that almost two-thirds of the silk goods consumed in the United States at that time was of foreign manufacture. The wool industry existed in the country even before the era of national independence In the year 1870 the value of products of domestic manufactures of wool was $199,257,262; that of imported was $35,032,628, or 15 per cent of the consumption of the United States, on the basis of declared foreign value. The manufacture of cotton has been conducted on a large scale for nearl}' a century. Before the Civil War it became a leading article of export. Nevertheless, the importation even then was of more value than the exportation. In the year 1870, selected for the present comparison in all the textiles, the value of the domestic manufacture of cotton was reported to be $177,489,739, and the value imported was $21,899,120, or 11.2 per cent of the total amount consumed. Combining the three textile industries, the total con- sumption for the year 1870 was valued at $466,186,303, of which home manufactures furnished $385,034,574; and $81,151,729, or 17.4 per cent, represents the foreign value of imports. Briefly, American manufacturers sup- plied iather less than five-sixths of the textile goods used in the United States. The conditions under which the several textile indus- tries are established in a country differ in an interest- ing manner. The controlling influences are the supply of the raw material and the adaptability of the people to a manufacturing life. Sheep can be raised in any country where warm clothing is needed, save in the polar regions. The spinning wheel and the handloom are among the simplest forms of machinery, on which the homespun is woven. It is therefore natural that the woolen industry should spring up in primitive com- munities, and among people who are too poor to buy the material of their clothing; and as population in- creases, as the comforts of life become more available, and as labor becomes specialized and diversified, the production by machinery of woolen cloth for sale is one of the earliest developments of the manufacturing tend- ency. As might therefore be expected, it is found that this department of the textile industry has a place in almost all countries in which garments made of wool fiber are needed as a protection of the body against cold. It is an interesting corollary of this principle that even in this country the manufacture is carried on in almost every state in the Union, from Maine to Texas, from Florida to Washington. Cotton is a subtropical plant. The lint can be sepa- rated from the seed by hand, and it can be spun and woven by processes as simple as those which in primi- tive communities convert wool into a clothing fabric. But the labor is so great and the efficiency of machin- ery is so superior to that of hand work that even the poorest communities can not afford to prepare the raw material and spin and weave it in this manner. Hence, virtually the whole manufacture is abandoned to the care of capital. Moreover, inasmuch as the improvement of machin- ery has cheapened the processes to a wonderful degree, it has become more and more difficult for novices to engage in the business with success. The result is that the manufacture tends greatly to concentrate, to expand COMBINED TEXTILES. in communities where already established, and to be neglected or to languish in regions where it is newly introduced, unless favored by special advantages. Such advantages may be convenient access to supplies of raw material or peculiar adaptability of the people to a manu- facturing life. In recent years there has been an introduction of the industry or a considerable growth of it from one of these two causes, in the East Indies, in China and Japan, in Canada, and in Mexico; in some of these cases the manufacture has been directly encouraged by Gov- ernment measures and could hardly have been success- ful without that aid. It is easy to explain the very interesting and altogether marvelous expansion of the industry in the Southern states during the last decade — the most interesting feature, in fact, concerning the development of the textile manufacture during that period — upon the principles here suggested. The situation with respect to silk is different from that of wool or cotton. Silk goods are a luxury, or at least a semiluxury. .They are not required by persons devoid of aesthetic taste. They have not the warmth- giving properties of wool. They are in general a poor as well as a costly substitute for most of the purposes to which cotton goods are put. Moreover, silk culture is a difficult and uncertain occupation, requiring con- stant care, and often bringing disappointment and loss even to those who have bestowed the most pains upon it. One would accordingly expect to find the produc- tion of silk flourishing in those countries only where the climate is well adapted to the growth of the mul- berry tree, and where the art of caring for the silkworm during all the stages of its life history has been acquired through many generations of study and experiment. It would also be natural to expect that the communities within which the raw material is produced would engage in its conversion into yarn and cloth, and this is the case. The sources whence the nations called "civil- ized " first drew the fine and costly fabric of silk were India, China, and Japan, and those countries still produce articles which the Western world can hardly match. The introduction of the silkworm into central and western Europe led to an immense expansion of the manufacture in France, Austria, Switzerland, and Italy. The Eng- lish, with their capacity for manufacturing, adopted the industry, relying upon imported raw silk, and it flourished for many years, but has been declining dur- ing the past half century. The Germans, nearly sur- rounded by countries which are extensively engaged in silk culture, although themselves producing practically no raw silk, have succeeded much better, and the his- tory of the manufacture in the German Empire has been one of great success. The culture of the silkworm in the United States, although often urged upon the people and many times attempted in a small way, has never proved commer- cially successful, and the country does not appear even among the "scattering" as a producer of raw silk. Yet under an encouraging government policy the manu- facture has been firmly established. Reasons corre- sponding to those which caused the wool manufacture to spring up in every part of the country and which con- centrated the cotton manufacture where power is cheap, where rates of transportation are low, where labor is abundant, or in the immediate vicinity of a supply of raw cotton, result in a still greater localization of the silk industry. Eleven-twelfths of all the establishments in the country are in the 5 adjoining states of Penn- sylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts, and of the 1,045,304 throwing spindles, 996,118 — more than nineteen-twentieths of the whole — are in the mills of those states. Table 1 shows the value of the products and the im- ports of cotton, wool, and silk manufactures, and per- centage of imports to the total consumption, 1870 and 1900. Table 1.— VALUE OF DOMESTIC PRODUCTS, EXPORTS, IMPORTS FOR CONSUMPTION, AND TOTAL CONSUMPTION OF TEXTILES, WITH PER CENT OF IMPORTS TO TOTAL CONSUMPTION: 1870 AND 1900. 1900 1870 Per cent of imports to Value of domestic products. Exports. 1 Domestic consump- tion. Imports for con- sumption. 1 Total con- sumption. Value of domestic products. Exports. 1 Domestic consump- tion. Imports for con- sumption. 1 Total con- sumption. total con- sumption. 1900 1870 Total $743, 447, 062 $25, 556, 057 $717,891,005 882,214,010 $800,105,015 $388,957,663 $3, 923, 089 $385, 034, 574 $81,151,729 $466, 186, 303 10.3 Cotton manufactures .. Wool manufactures 339, 200, 320 296,990,484 107, 256, 258 24,003,087 1,300,362 252, 608 315,197,233 295, 690, 122 107, 003, 650 39, 789, 989 15, 620, 487 26, 803, 5S4 354,987,222 311,310,609 133, 807, 184 177,489,739 199, 257, 262 12,210,662 3,787,282 124, 159 11,648 173,702,457 199, 133, 103 12, 199, 014 21, 899, 120 35, 032, 628 24, 219, 981 195,601,577 234,165,731 36, 418, 995 11.2 5.0 20.0 11.2 15.0 66.5 1 AnnualReports United States Treasury Department on Commerce and Navigation of the United States, 1870 and 1900. These are foreign, and not duty-paid values. The value now reported for hosiery and knit goods can not be divided between cotton and wool; but if it be added to the reported home production, the total value of the textiles consumed in the United States in 1900 is $895,587,581, and the percentage imported is but 9.18. It may also be mentioned that in recent years a great proportion of the articles classed as cot- ton goods imported consists of laces, embroideries, trimmings, edgings, and other merchandise of which these are the types, which are not strictly to be classi- fied with the products of the spindle, the loom, and the knitting machine. 6 MANUFACTURES. It is a matter of extreme difficulty to ascertain the exact standing of the United States as a producer of textiles. The statistics are collected in no other coun- try with the care and thoroughness which characterize an American census. The figures presented by statis- ticians of recognized repute are necessarily estimates to a large extent; and the years for which the estimates are made do not coincide with the census years of this country, unless by accident. Nevertheless, the situa- tion may be set forth in broad terms with much confi- dence, inasmuch as there are some facts having an official character which furnish trustworthy indications. Taking first the cotton manufacture, there is the assistance of Government and commercial statistics showing the amount of cotton produced, imported, ex- ported, and consequently the amount retained for con- sumption in each country. There is also the help afforded by close annual estimates by most experienced observers of the number of spindles in operation in every country of the world in which cotton is manu- factured on a large scale. The following table, com- piled from statistics gathered by Thomas Ellison, of Liverpool, the highest authority in the world on the subject of cotton, shows the consumption of cotton in Great Britain, on the continent of Europe, and in the United States, at various periods, namely, the average annual consumption in the five years ending with the American census years from 1830 to 1880, followed by the annual consumption in each of the years 1890 and 1900. The amounts are expressed in thousands of bales of a uniform weight of 400 pounds. CONSUMPTION OF COTTON AT DECENNIAL PERIODS, 1830-1900. Great Britain, number of thousand bales. Continent Europe, number of thousand bales. United States, number of thousand bales. Average for 6 years ending— 1830 711 1,156 1,458 2,265 2,639 2,924 4,140 4,079 411 629 776 1,490 1,842 2,455 4,277 5,720 130 1840 255 1850 . 553 I860 813 1870 875 1880 1,543 12,983 4,599 1 Census figures, reduced to bales of 400 pounds. Cotton used in wool manu- factures included. One might hastily infer that the United States was, in the year 1900, the leading country of the world in the manufacture of cotton. The same inference might be drawn from the statistics collected by the New York Chronicle, which, in its Cotton Crop Sup- plement for 1900, ' gives the weekly consumption for the preceding years as shown in the following table, in bales of 500 pounds each. The annual consumption (52 weeks) of bales of corresponding weight, and the number reduced to bales of 400 pounds, are added for purposes of comparison with the preceding table. 1 September 8, 1900. WORLD'S CONSUMPTION OF COTTON, 1900. [New York Commercial Chronicle.] Total . Great Britain. Continent United States. East Indies... Japan Canada Mexico Weekly, number of 500-pound bales. 262, 295 164,115 88, 000 74, 148 21,538 12, 000 2,141 353 Number of 500-pound bales. 13, 639, 340 4, 576, 000 3,855,696 1,119,976 624,000 111,332 18, 356 Equivalent 400-pound bales. 17, 049, 175 167,475 720, 000 819, 620 399, 970 780, 000 139, 165 22, 945 ■ The amount reported in 1900, prior to the receipt of Mr. Ellison's report, was 67,654 bales weekly. In the Cotton Crop Supplement, September 7, 1901, the amount was changed to 64,115 bales weekly. Although the amount consumed by the countries of the European continent exceeded that consumed in the United States, the consumption in this country greatly exceeded that of any one of those countries: France, Germany, Austria, or Russia. It is, however, universally known that Great Britain is far in the lead in the cotton manufacture. The fact is brought out in the special report on the cotton indus- try, that an immense proportion of the spinning in the United States is coarse or medium yarns, whereas the average spinning on the other side of the Atlantic is much finer. A better test of the comparative standing is afforded by the number of spindles. The following table, like that showing the consumption of cotton, is made up from the figures compiled by Mr. Ellison, and ai - e partly official and partly estimated: COTTON SPINDLES IN THE WORLD AT VARIOUS PERIODS, IN THOUSANDS. 1900 1897 1887 1877 1861 Continentof Europe United States 46, 000 33, 000 19,008 4,400 1,500 600 640 460 44, 900 30,350 16,800 4,000 970 440 560 450 43,000 23,750 13,500 2,400 39, 500 19, 600 10, 000 1,230 30, 300 10,000 5,000 338 Japan Canada A more detailed statement of the spindles in the countries of the world in 1900 has been prepared for this report by the editor of the New York Commercial and Financial Chronicle. It is presented, together with another statement made by Mr. Hachiro H. Fukuhara, a Japanese, who has been investigating the cotton man- ufacture in Europe and America with a view to pro- moting the industry in his own country. The general correspondence of the two statements, compiled inde- pendently, is a strong point in favor of the accuracy of both. They show that this country stands next after Great Britain in the number of spindles, and that it operates more than twice as many spindles as Germany, which has the third rank. COMBINED TEXTILES. NUMBER OF SPINDLES IN THE COUNTRIES OF THE WORLD, AS ASCERTAINED AT NEAREST AVAILABLE DATE TO 1900. Total . United Kingdom Dnited Stales Germany Russia France India Austria and Hungary . Spain Switzerland Italy Japan Poland Belgium China Canada Mexico Sweden Holland Portugal Norway Greece Ron mania Smyrna New York Mr. Fuku- Chronicle, hara, number. number. 103, 383, 386 103, 050, 677 45, 400, 000 45, 400, 000 18,590,515 18,100,000 17,155,500 7,884,000 2 6,090,889 6,000,000 85, 039, 000 5, 300, 000 4,945,783 5,002,473 5 3.140,171 3, 140, 000 *2, 614, 500 2, 615, 000 11,709,400 1,972,000 12,092,730 1,886,000 1,220,975 1,250,000 6 850,000 965, 000 1880,800 900, 000 600, 000 560, 048 640, 000 500,000 2491,443 448, 156 2360,000 360, 000 '269,680 350, 000 3160,000 230, 000 ■•112,000 118,000 «970,000 70,000 240,000 10,000 '1898. 2)899 »1894 * 1896. &1897. 61895. The materials for estimating the relative standing of different countries in the wool industry are less abundant and less trustworthy than those available for the cotton manufacture. There are no accurate returns, even of the consumption of wool, except in Great Britain and the United States; there is no common standard of machinery; and no return of the number of hands employed. The most recent figures, and they are merely careful and probably nearly correct estimates, are for the year 1894. They are compiled 1 from the trade circular of Heimuth Schwartze & Co:, of London, who are recognized authority upon the production and consumption of wool throughout the world. The estimate is that in the year 1894 the home pro- duction and the net importation of the United Kingdom made available for the consumption of that country aggregated 507,000,000 pounds of wool; for the Conti- nent of Europe, 1,247,000,000 pounds; for North America, 458,000,000 pounds. The estimate of the same authority for the year 1900 gave the United King- dom for home consumption 502,000,000 pounds. It is, perhaps, not far from the truth to assume that the con- sumption of live-sixths, possibly more, of the wool manufactured on the Continent of Europe of which commerce takes account is divided nearly equally among France, Germany, and Austria-Hungary. For this inference, reliance has to be placed upon statistics which are none too recent. Assuming, in order to make an estimate, that the consumption in 1892 was the same as in 1894, and that the home production of each country was the same in 1892 as in 1900, the result, stated in pounds of wool consumed, is as follows: COUNTRIES. Total, pounds. Production, pounds. Net import, pounds. Total 1,227,500,000 217, 500, 000 1,010,000,000 457,610,000 383,090,000 386,800,000 103, 610, 000 49, 590, 000 64, 300, 000 354, 000, 000 333, 500, 000 322, 500, 000 NOTE.— The materials from which the foregoing statement Is composed are to be found in the Wool Book, 1895, pages 79, 81, 82, and 85, and the Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers for November, 1900, page 14. 'The Wool Book, Boston: 1895, page 64. The use of wool in the manufactures of the United States, according to the present census, amounted to 394,369,523 pounds in the year 1900; somewhat less, it will be observed, than the amount above allowed for North America in the Helmuth-Schwartze estimate for the year 1894. Although the inference can not be put forth with much confidence, all the available facts seem to suggest that, judged by the standard of wool con- sumed — by no means a perfect test — the United States stands after Great Britain, the leading country, and France the second, and on a fairly even footing with Germany and Austria. The report upon the silk manufacture gives a trust- worthy exhibit of the position of the United States in that branch of the textile industry, in the following table: VALUE OF SILK PRODUCTS OF EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES: 1900. l COUNTRIES. Total France United States.: Germany Switzerland Russia (in Europe) . Austria Great Britain Italy Spain and Portugal Value of products. ¥395, 000, 000 122,000,000 92,000,000 73, 000, 000 38,000,000 21,000,000 17,000,000 15,000,000 13,000,000 4, 000, 000 Per cent of products. 30.9 23.3 18.5 9.6 5.3 4.3 3.8 i International Universal Exposition at Paris; Report of United States Com- missioner Peck; Report on silk fabrics, contributed by Franklin Allen, jr., of the United States, in the silk section (Class 83). Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C, 1901, page 565. It appears that in value of production the United States is surpassed by France alone, and reasons are given in the report for an opinion that the excess is swelled by some items that should not be reckoned to the credit of France. At the rate of progress made by the United States it seems probable that at the next enumeration it will take the first position among silk manufacturing nations, if it has not already (1902) done so. It may be remarked that value of production is a better test of the relative standing of nations in the case of silk than it is in the case of cotton, where so much depends upon the fineness of spinning, or than in the case of wool, where the difference is so wide in the value per pound of material used in the manufacture of car- pets and of fine worsted cloth. A general summary shows that the United States is second in the cotton industry, nearly tied for the third place in woolens, and second in silk. But the country so far exceeds any of its rivals, except Great Britain, in cotton, that the position as the second manufacturing nation in the world in textiles will be conceded to be beyond dispute. It is interesting, therefore, to inquire how the United States stands in comparison with the United Kingdom, which alone surpasses it in this re- spect. The only available test is the number of hands employed. The Annual Report for 1900 of the Chief Inspector of Factories and Workshops, published as a MANUFACTURES. " blue book," gives the number of employees in all the textile factories in the. United Kingdom in 1899. The numbers are given herewith, and the corresponding numbers of employees in American textile factories in 1900 are given for purposes of comparison: United King- dom, 1899, wage-earners, number. United States, 1900, wage- earners, aver- age number. Total 1,010,162 631,675 526, 107 256,425 35,461 35,464 156, 705 302,861 159, 108 65, 416 83,387 20,903 Silk Only wage-earners are reported in the figures for the United States, and apparently none others are included in the British returns. So far as these facts are a safe basis for a conclusion, the importance of the textile in- dustrj' as a whole in the United States is about three- fifths as great as the same industry in Great Britain. Were the flax, hemp, and jute manufactures, in which this country is greatly inferior, to be eliminated, the proportion would be nearly three-fourths. A GENERAL SURVEY OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY. Table 2, in continuation of that which was first pre- sented at the Eleventh Census, exhibits the general condition of each branch of the textile manufacture, and of the industry as an entity, at decennial periods for the last half century. Table 2.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, BY INDUSTRIES: 1850 TO 1900. INDUSTRIES. Combined textiles Cotton manuiacture: Cotton goods Cotton small wares Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Flax, hemp, and jute Dyeing and finishing textiles Combined textiles Cotton manufacture Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Flax, hemp, and jute Dyeing and finishing textiles Combined textiles Cotton manufacture 4 Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Dyeing and finishing textiles Combined textiles Cotton manufacture Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Dyeing and finishing textiles Combined textiles Cotton manufacture Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit floods Dyeing and finishing textiles Combined textiles Cotton manufacture Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Dveing and finishing textiles Year. 1900 1900 1900 1900 1900 1900 1900 1890 1890 1890 1890 1890 1890 1890 1880 1880 1880 1880 1880 1880 1870 1870 1870 1870 1870 1870 1S60 1860 1860 1800 1860 1860 1850 185(1 1X50 18511 1850 1850 Num- ber of ] estab- I Capital, lish- j ments. i 973 82 1,414 483 921 141 298 4,276 81,042,997,577 472 796 162 248 756 2,330 382 :«i 191 4,790 956 , 208 86 248 292 1,091 1,476 139 197 124 3,025 1,094 1,675 67 460,842,772 6, 397, 385 310, 179, 749 81, 082, 201 81,860,604 41, 991, 762 60, 643, 104 767, 705, 310 354, 020, 813 245,886,743 51,007,537 50 607,738 27, 731, 649 38,450,800 412,721,496 208,280,346 143,512,278 19,125,300 15,579,591 26,223,981 297,694,243 140,706,291 121,451,059 6,231,130 10,931,260 18,374,503 150,080,862 98, 685, 269 38,814,422 2, 926, 980 4, 035, 510 6, 718, 671 112,513,947 74, 500, 931 31,971,631 678, 300 644, 735 4, 818, 360 SALARIED OFFICIALS. CLERKS, ETC. 16, 822 $23, 289, 162 4,713 189 4,495 2,657 2,809 641 1,318 1 10, 637 2,709 3,652 1,531 1,621 458 666 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) ( 2 ) ( 2 ) 7, 123, 574 226, 625 6,455,495 3, 134, 352 3, 124, 798 957, 190 2, 267, 128 '12,539,920 3,464,734 4,057,695 1,917,877 1,685,163 609, 170 805, 291 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) ( 2 ) ( 2 ) WAGE-EARNERS. Average number. 297, 929 4,932 159, 108 65,416 83, 387 20, 903 29, 776 517,237 218,876 154, 271 49, 382 59,588 15, 519 19, 601 5 384,251 6174,659 132, 672 31,337 28,885 16, 698 274, 943 135, 369 105,071 6,649 14,788 13,066 194,082 122,028 50,419 5,435 9,103 7,097 146, 877 92, 286 45, 438 1, 743 2, 325 5,105 Total wages. $209,022,447 126, 310 563, 442 933, 817 982, 194 358, 627 331,741 726, 316 168, 488, 982 66,024,538 54,339,775 17, 762, 441 16,578,119 4,872,389 8,911,720 105,050,666 42,040,510 40,687,612 9,146,705 6,701,475 6,474,364 86,565,191 39, 044, 132 35,928,150 1,942,286 4,429,085 5,221,538 40, 353, 462 23, 940, 108 11, 699, 630 1,050,224 1,661,972 2,001,528 ( 2 ) ( 7 ) (') ft (') Miscella- neous ex- penses. $63, 122, 916 650, 144 462, 534 329, 932 264, 208 599, 865 678, 286 137, 947 44,788,668 16, 716, 524 15, 622, 263 4,259,623 3, 627, 245 1,431,932 3,131,081 (') ( 3 ) ( 3 ) ( 3 ) Cost of materials used. $521, 345, 200 173,441, 3, 110, 181 159, 62,406, 51,071, 32, 197, 17, 958, 447, 546, 540 154, 912, 979 167, 233, 987 51,004,425 35,861,585 26, 148, 344 12, 385, 220 302, 709, 894 102,206,347 149, 160, 600 22,467,701 15,210,951 13,664,295 353,249,102 111,736,936 124,318,792 7, 817, 559 9,835,823 99,539,992 112, 842, 111 57, 285, 534 43,447,048 3, 901, 777 3, 202, 317 5, 005, 435 76, 715, 959 34,835,056 28,831,583 1, 093, 860 415, 113 11,540,347 Value of products. $931,494,566 332, 806, 156 6, 394, 164 296,990,484 107, 256, 258 95, 482, 566 47,601,607 44, 963, 331 759,262,283 267, 981 , 724 270,527,511 87, 298. 454 67,241,013 37, 313, 021 28,900,560 532,673,488 192, 090, 110 238,085,686 41, 033, 045 29,167,227 32,297,420 520, 386, 764 177,489,739 199, 257, 262 12, 210, 662 18,411,564 6113,017,537 214, 740, 614 115,681,774 73, 454, 000 6,607,771 7, 280, 606 11, 716, 463 128, 769, 971 61,869,184 48,608,779 1,809,476 1,028,102 15,454,430 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See detailed summary for each industry.) 2 Not reported separately. 3 Not reported. « In addition to these data there were received at the census of 1880 returns for 249 mills, classed as "special mills," engaged in working raw cotton waste or cotton yarn into hosiery, webbing, tapes, and fancy fabrics, and mixed goods or other fabrics, which are not sold as specific manufactures of wool or'oottnn' These 249 establishments reported $11,224,448 capital, 12,928 employees, $3,573,909 wages. $2,338,385 cost of cotton consumed, $18 860 273 value of products and should be considered in making comparisons. In 1890 this class of mills is reported under a number of different heads, although some of them mav be include--! in thp totals for the textile industries presented in the figures for 1890. ' 'Includes 2,115 officers and clerks, whose salaries were not reported. » At the census of 1870 the value of the fabric itself was reported, whereas in all subsequent censuses merely the value added to such fabric bv the Droress of dyeing and finistr'ng is given. J F * 'This item was not fully reported at the census of 1850. COMBINED TEXTILES. Great reliance can not be placed upon any manufac- turing census of the United States prior to that of 1870, at which time a scientific method was employed for the first time, and since which the returns have been more thorough, more carefully scanned, and more accurate. But inasmuch as the rule adopted for ascertaining the capital employed has been changed at each census, except for 1890 and 1900, the indication of increase can be taken as only approximately true. With this cau- tion it appears that the capital invested in textile man- ufactures, omitting flax, hemp, and jute, has multiplied more than eight times in fifty years, and that the value of products is almost sevenfold that reported in 1850. Neither capital nor value of products is a fair test of the increase of the industry, the first item for the reason just given, and the value of products because there has been a progressive decrease in the cost of the fibers which constitute the raw material, and hence in the value of the pound of yarn or the yard of cloth. Another standard of comparison is afforded by the number of employees. Table 3 shows the percentage of increase in the average number of wage-earners and in the value of products. Table 3.— PER CENT OF INCREASE IN AVERAGE NUM- BER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND IN VALUE OF PROD- UCTS: 1850 to 1900. 1 PERIODS. Per cent of increase in — Average number of wage- earners. Value of products. 1850 to 1900 336. 1 586.4 1890 to 1900 27.7 30.6 39.8 41.7 32.1 22 4 1880 to 1890 35.5 1870 to 1880 2 4 1860 to 1870 142 3 1850 to 1860 66 8 1 Not including flax, hemp, and jute. It appears that the total increase in the number of \ wage-earners in the textile manufactures, excluding flax, hemp, and jute, for which comparative figures are not available, during the half century has been 336. 1 per cent. The rate of increase has averaged 34.4 during each decennial period. The rate during the last decade was the smallest of those reported, but it was based upon a much larger aggregate, so that numerically the increase was greater than in the period 1SS0-1890. It is an interesting fact that the increase has in each decade, except that of 1850-1860, exceeded the general growth of population in spite of the enormous increase in the efficiency of machinery, which makes the pro- ductive power of one man's labor many times as great as it was at the beginning of the half century. In con- sidering the statement of the percentage of increase in the value of products, full account should be taken of the disturbance of all estimates of this sort which in- clude the period from 1860 to 1880. Prices were greatly inflated during the first half of the twenty-year period by the depreciation of the monetary standard, and also by the scarcity of cotton, which made the price exceed- ingly high. During the last half of the period prices gradually declined, owing to the restoration of normal conditions in the cotton market and the return to a gold basis. NUMBER OF ESTABLISHMENTS. The number of establishments engaged in all the tex-^ tile industries, except flax, hemp, and jute, has increased since 1850 from 3,025 to 4,171, or 37.9 per cent. The number has shown a positive decrease since 1870. The gross number at the last 4 censuses has been 4,790, 4,018, 4,114, and 4,171, respectively. Yet the number of silk factories has increased largely, and there has been a great development of the cotton industry in the South, involving the installation of hundreds of new establish- ments. The decrease has mostly occurred in the num- ber of establishments manufacturing wool. Neverthe- less, a somewhat similar process is going on in all branches of the industry, an abandonment and final closing of small establishments and a consolidation akin to that which is taking place in all other industries. This tendency is marked, to a certain extent, in the case of cotton by the very extensive building of new mills in the Southern states. It is fully apparent in the case of wool for a reason which will be apparent to all persons who are aware of the difference in the conditions under which the two industries are conducted. It will be seen that the average capital reported by the 973 cotton manufacturing establishments is more than $473,000; the average of those engaged in the manufacture of wool is less than $220,000. Ten years ago the average capital in the latter industry was less than $150,000. Most cotton factories are owned and oper-ated by corporations; a large number of woolen factories are owned by individuals or firms, some of which are small producers, chiefly for local consumption. The tendency of textile manufactures both to concentrate and to group themselves in favor- able regions is most marked, and is likely to be more apparent as time passes. THE GENERAL GROWTH IN TWENTY TEARS. Table 4 presents a comparative summary of the lead- ing facts relating to the industry as a whole, not includ- ing flax, hemp, and jute, in 1880, 1890, and 1900, with the per cent of increase for each decade. 10 MANUFACTURES. Table 4.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, NOT INCLUDING FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE, 1880 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1900 1890 1880 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 4,171 $1,001,005,816 16, 181 $22,331,972 640, 648 $202, 690, 706 288, 871 $114,959,158 283, 638 $78,084,564 68,039 $9, 646, 984 $60,444,630 $489, 147, 315 $883, 892, 959 4,114 $739,973,661 1 10, 179 1 $11, 930, 760 501,718 $163, 616, 593 216, 345 $91,038,323 243, 589 $66,644,785 41,784 $5,933,485 $43, 356, 736 $421,398,196 $721,949,262 4,018 $412,721,496 3 384,251 $105,050,666 159,382 ( 2 ) 169, 806 o 55, 063 Pi $302,709,894 $532, 673, 488 1.4 35.3 59.0 87.2 27.7 23.9 33.5 26.3 16.4 17.2 62.8 62.6 39.4 16.1 22.4 2.4 79.3 Salaried officials, clerks, etc. , number Wage-earners, average number 30.6 55.8 35.7 43.5 4 24. 1 39.2 35.5 1 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported In 1900, but not included in this table. (See detailed summary for each Industry.) 2 Not reported separately. a Includes 2,li5 officers and clerks whose salaries are not reported. 4 Decrease. 6 Not reported. The comparison of all the items in combination gives a better measure of growth than can be found in any single item of the statement. It will be seen that as to 'all the items which were reported in the enumeration of 1880 there was an increase in the ensuing decade, with the single exception of children employed. The decrease in this item was due to a combined legislative and social movement in the Northern states to eliminate child labor as far as practicable. For the decade from 1890 to 1900 there was an increase in every item, rang- ing in amounts from 1.4 per cent in the number of establishments to 87.2 per cent in the salaries of office clerks, etc. It is scarcely necessary to say that the increase in salaried employees is rather apparent than real, and is due to the transfer to this item of superin- tendents, overseers, etc., who were reported in 1890 with wage-earners. The next largest increase is that in the number of children employed, 62.8 per cent, and of their wages, 62.6 per cent. This reversal of the movement previously noted was a consequence of the immense increase of cotton manufacturing in the South, where it was necessary to enlist all the labor procurable. Neither of the items showing a minimum or a maxi- mum of increase is of much weight in estimating the growth of the industry, but it will be seen that the re- ported increase of capital, 35.3percent; of wage-earners, 27.7 per cent; of wages, 23.9 per cent; and of miscella- neous expenses, 39.4 per cent, are sufficiently uniform to give a fair indication of the progress that has been made. The fact that the cost of materials has increased only 16.1 per cent, and the value of products only 22.4 per cent, is explainable by the large decrease in the average price of the raw materials used, which is re- flected in the value of products. The quantity of prod- uct shows an increase corresponding to that of the other items mentioned. CAPITAL INVESTED. Table 5 presents a summary of the capital invested in the several branches of the textile industry, 1840 to 1900, inclusive. Table 5.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF CAPITAL: 1840 TO 1900. DATE OF CENSUS. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 Total. $1, 042, 997, 577 767,705,310 412,721,496 297, 694, 243 150, 080, 852 112,513,947 66, 867, 483 Cotton manu- facture. 1 $467,240,157 354, 020, 843 208,280,346 140,706,291 98,585,269 74,500,931 51, 102, 359 Wool manu- facture. 2 $310, 179, 749 245, 886, 743 143, 512, 278 121,451,059 38,814,422 31,971,631 15, 765, 124 Silk manufac- ture. Hoaiesy and .am goods. $81,082,201 51,007,537 19, 125, 300 6,231,130 2, 926, 980 678, 300 $81,860,604 50,607,738 15, 579, 691 10,931,260 4,035,510 544,735 ( 4 ) Flax, hemp, and jute 3 $41,991,762 27,731,649 Dyeing and finishing textiles. $60,643,104 38,450,800 26,223,981 IS, 374, 503 5,718,671 4,818,350 i Includes cotton goods and cotton small wares. 2 Includes worsted goods; woolen goods: carpets and rugs, other than rag; felt goods, and wool hats. 'Includes cordage and twine; jute and jute goods, and linen goods; also two establishments classified in 1890 as ' *Not reported separately. linen thread." COMBINED TEXTILES. 11 While the method of ascertaining the capital has been changed at nearlv every census the statement is never- theless interesting. The successive changes have in general had the result of including more and more of the actual capital employed; that is to say, at the earlier censuses the capital stated was merely the nominal cap- ital of corporations or the estimated capital of individ- uals and firms. The method pursued at the censuses of 1890 and 1900 has been to sum the value of plant and to include also such items as stock in process, bills re- ceivable, etc., thus including in the capital the accumu- lation which has been invested in the business and the capital of others than the owners which has been bor- rowed and practically invested in the manufacture. In this way the reported capital shows a much larger in- crease than would have been exhibited if the original method had been followed. It will be seen that the largest amount' of capital was, at every census, that invested in cotton manufacture. At the beginning of the period, 1840, it was more than three times that invested in the wool manufacture, and at the census of 1900 it was still more than 50 per cent greater than that of the wool manufacture. The actual increase, however, has been more than $400,000,000, against a little less than $300,000,000 in wool. The capital invested in wool in 1900 was almost twenty times that reported in 1840. The growth of the silk manu- facture and that of hosiery and knit goods, estimated by their capital, were almost the same from 1850 to 1900, and the rate of growth of each from decade to decade has been also quite uniform. Flax, hemp, and jute manufactures were first reported separately in 1890, and during the last decade increased about 50 per cent. The dyeing and finishing industry also shows a large growth during each ten-year period. COST OF MATERIALS AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS. Tables 6 and 7 should be considered together. Table 6 shows the cost of materials and value of products for each branch of the industry in 1890 and 1900, and also, for each census, the cost of materials per $100 of prod- ucts. Table 7 shows the value of products for each branch of the industry from the earliest period for which the foundation for a reasonable estimate exists. Table 6.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COST OF MATERI- ALS, VALUE OF PRODUCTS, AND COST OF MATERIALS PER $100 OF PRODUCTS: 1890 AND 1900. INDUSTRIES. Year. Cost o£ materials used. Value of products. Cost of materials per $100 of products. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 $176, 551, 527 154, 912, 979 181, 159, 127 167, 233, 987 62,406,665 51,004,425 51,071,859 35,861,585 32, 197, 885 26,148,344 17,958,137 12, 385, 220 $339, 200, 320 267,981,724 296, 990, 484 270, 527, 511 107, 256, 258 87,298,454 95, 482, 566 67,241,013 47, 601, 607 37, 313, 021 44, 963, 331 28,900,560 $52.05 57. 81 61.00 61.82 68.18 58.43 63.49 53.33 67.64 Dyeing and finishing textiles . . . 70.08 39.94 42.85 1 Includes cotton goods and cotton small wares. 2 Includes worsted goods; woolen goods; carpets and rugs, other than rag; felt goods; and wool hats. 3 Includes cordage and twine; jute and jute goods; and linen goods; also 2 establishments classified in 1890 as " linen thread." Table 7.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1810 TO 1900. DATE OF CENSUS. Total. Cotton manu- facture. 1 Wool manu- facture. 2 Silk manu- facture. Hosiery and knit goods. Flax, hemp, and jute. 3 Dyeing and finishing textiles. 1900 $931, 494, 556 759,262,283 532, 673, 488 520,386,764 214, 740, 614 128,769,971 67, 047, 452 37, 062, 981 9, 247; 225 51, 685, 785 $339,200,320 267, 981, 724 192,090,110 177,489,739 115, 681, 774 61,869,184 46,350,453 22, 534, 815 4, 834, 157 = 26,076,997 $296,990,484 270, 527, 511 238, 085, 686 199,257,262 73,454,000 48,608,779 20, 696, 999 14,528,166 4, 413, 068 6 25,608,788 $107,256,268 87,298,454 41,033,045 12,210,662 6, 607, 771 1,809,476 $95,482,566 67,241,013 29, 167, 227 18,411,564 7, 280, 606 1,028,102 $47,601,607 37,313,021 $44,963,331 28,900,560 32,297,420 ■>113,017,537 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 15,454,430 1840 1830 1820 1810 i Includes cotton goods and cotton small wares. 2 Includes worsted goods; woolen goods; carpets and rugs, other than rag; felt goods; and wool hats. s Includes cordage and twine; jute and jute goods; linen goods; and two establishments in 1890 classified as " linen thread." 4 At the census ot 1870 the value of the fabric itself was reported, whereas in all subsequent censuses merely the value added to such fabric by the process of dyeing and finishing is given. 5 Includes manufactures of cotton and flax in families and otherwise. Includes manufactures of wool in families and otherwise. The comparison between cost of materials and value of products reflects the decline already noted in the cost of the several fibers used in the manufacture. The de- cline is most marked in the case of cotton, where the cost of materials has declined $5.76 in $100 of product, whereas in wool and silk the decline has been fractional. There are influences which serve to make the present cost of materials more uniform than would be expected from the large difference in the price per pound of cot- ton, wool, and silk. Thus, the percentage of amount employed in the wool manufacture is much greater than in cotton, and the higher relative cost of labor due to that fact neutralizes, to a certain extent, the greater cost of wool per pound. On the other hand, the cost of materials in flax, hemp, and jute — the most inexpensive materials entering into the textile industry — shows a greater percentage than either of the other branches, owing to the small amount of labor required for hand- ling a great quantity of material. The table which shows the value of product during 12 MANUFACTURES. the Nineteenth century makes use of one of the two only standards that are possible for estimating the rela- tive importance of the several industries at the close of each decade. The figures given for 1810, 1820, 1830, and 1840 are taken from the report made to James Guthrie, Secretary of the Treasury in 1855, the most reliable authority for these years. The cotton manu- facture was begun in Pawtucket, R. L, in 1791. Prior to the War of 1812 there was no mill in the country which carried on both spinning and weaving under the same management, but the number of spinning mills was large. No statement of the value of the wool manufacture has been made prior to the year 1820. It will be seen that at that time the cotton manufacture was more than five times as great in value, according to the esti- mate, as the wool. In 1830 wool was more than half as important as cotton. From that time there was a steady increase of both industries, which has been con- tinued ever since. Cotton greatly outranked wool in 1860, but the interruption of the cotton manufacture which resulted from the Civil War gave wool an advan- tage, which is to be seen in the returns for 1870 and 1880, and to a very slight extent in 1890; but at the present census cotton has again resumed the leadership which before the Civil War it held so long. The silk manufacture first appears in 1850, and at the same time the hosiery and knit goods industry was reported separately from the wool manufacture. Both of these industries have grown enormously, and at the present time the value of the silk manufacture is more than one-third that of wool, and nearly one-third that of cotton; and knit goods lag but little in the rear. The flax, hemp, and jute industry has always existed, and no doubt at the beginning of the Government under the Constitution the production of cordage far exceeded in value that of any other branch of the manufacture now classed as textile. It has assumed great importance in modern industry in consequence of the immense demand for binding twine. The increase of dyeing and finishing has, of course, kept pace with the other textile industries of which it is the necessary concomitant. It should be noted that the amount reported as the value of dyeing and finish- ing in 1870 represents the value of the finished product. For every other enumeration it is simply the value added to the product of other establishments. CONSUMPTION OF TEXTILE FIBERS. Table 8 presents a statement of the consumption of textile fibers, in pounds, from 1840 to 1900, and fur- nishes a measure of the relative growth of the cotton, wool, and silk industries. Table 8.— CONSUMPTION OF TEXTILE FIBERS: 1840 TO 1900. YEAES. Cotton, pounds. 1 Wool, pounds. 2 Silk, pounds. 1900 1,910,509,193 1,193,374,641 798,344,83? 430,781,937 443, 845, 378 288, 558, 000 126, 000, 000 412, 323, 430 372, 797, 413 296, 192, 229 219,970,174 98, 379, 785 70, 862, 829 9,760,770 1890 6,376,881 1880 ... 2,690,482 1870 684,488 1800 462, 965 1840 ... 'Includes cotton consumed in establishments classed as cotton goods, cot- ton small wares; woolen goods, worsted goods, carpets and rugs, other than rag; felt goods; wool hats; and hosiery and knit goods. a Includes wool consumed in establishments classed as woolen goods; worsted goods, carpets and rugL 1 , other than rag; felt goods; wool hats; and hosiery and knit goods. The indication of Table 8 is substantially the same as that of the table showing the value of products. It will be seen that whereas there was a large increase in the amount of wool used at each enumeration, there was a decrease of cotton from 1860 to 1870, and that during the twentj'-year period from 1860 to 1880 the amount of wool used increased threefold, whereas the amount of cotton did not double itself. During the last decade the increase of wool has been little more than 10 per cent, whereas the increase of cotton has been more than 60 per cent. EMPLOYEES AND THEIE WAGES. Table 9 presents the total -number of wage-earners in each branch of the industry, classified as men, women, and children, and the wages earned during the census year 1900. Table 9.— AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES, BY INDUSTRIES: 1900. INDUSTRIES. Total . Cotton manufacture: Cottc n goods Cotton small wares , Wool manufacture ! I Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Flax, hemp, and jute 2 Dyeing and finishing textiles . Average number. 297,929 4,932 159, 108 65, 416 83, 387 20, 903 29, 776 Wages. 8209, 022, 447 126,310 5C3, 442 933, 817 982, 194 358, 627 331,741 726, 316 MEN, 16 YEARS AND OVER. Average number. 298, 867 134,354 1,367 83, 371 24,206 21, 161 9,996 24, 419 Wages. S118,783,713 46, 923, 865 071, 516 36, 412, 872 10, 699, 483 8, 890, 728 3, 824, 555 11,361,194 16 YEARS AND OVER. Average number. 292, 286 123, 709 3,173 64,141 34,797 53,565 8,648 4,253 ■Includes worsted goods; woolen goods; carpets and rugs, other than rag; felt goods; and wool hats. 'Includes cordage and twine; jute aud jute goods; and linen goods. Wages. S80, 258, 716 32, 917, 933 828, 732 19,549,423 9, 377, 696 14, 243, 808 2,174,152 1, 168, 972 CHILDREN, UNDER 16 YEARS. Average number. 70, 2< 39, 866 392 11.5% 6,413 8, 60S 2,259 1,104 Wages. $9, 980, 018 5,285,012 63,194 1,971,522 905, 015 1, 224, 091 333, 034 198, 150 COMBINED TEXTILES. 13 / The striking fact appears that the average number of wage-earners employed during the entire year in the manufacture and finishing of all the cloth necessary for a population of over 75,000,000 was but 640,548, the num- ber employed in flax, hemp, and jute being deducted from the total shown in this table. It is a remarkable illus- tration of the power of machinery that much less than one person in a hundred was required to furnish the materials for the clothing of the American people. The number of persons employed in the cotton manufacture, including cotton small wares, was almost twice as great as that in the wool manufacture, which again was nearly three times the number of persons employed in silk mills. Table 10 shows the average number of wage-earners, men, women, and children, in the several branches of the industry and the percentage that each is of the total for 1880, 1890, and 1900. Table lO.— AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS, AND PROPORTION OF MEN, WOMEN, AND CHILDREN: 1880 TO 1900. Total Cotton manufacture Wool manufacture Silk manufacture Hosiery and knit goods Flax, hemp, and jute Dyeing and finishing textiles Year. 1900 1890 '1880 1900 1890 U880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1900 1890 1880 AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS. Total. 661, 451 517, 237 384, 251 302, 861 218, 876 174, 659 159, 108 154, 271 132, 672 65, 416 49,382 31,337 83,387 59, 588 28, 885 20, 903 .16,519 29, 776 19, 601 16, 698 Men, 16 years and over. 298, 867 223,712 159, 382 135, 721 88, 837 61, 760 83, 371 78,550 67, 942 24, 206 17, 602 9,375 21,154 14, 846 7, 517 9,996 7,367 24,419 16, 510 12, 788 Women, 16 years and over. 292, 286 250,512 169, 806 126, 882 106,607 84, 558 64, 141 64,944 49, 107 34,797 28,914 16,396 53, 565 40, 826 17, 707 8,648 6,923 4,253 2,298 2,038 Children, under 16 years. 70, 298 43,013 55, 063 40,258 23,432 28,341 11,596 10, 777 15,623 6,413 2,866 5,566 8,668 3,916 3,661 2,259 1,229 1,104 793 1,872 PER CENT OF TOTAL. 45.2 43.3 41.5 44.8 40.6 35.4 52.4 50.9 51.2 37.0 35.6 29.9 25. 4 24.9 26.0 47.8 47.5 82.0 84.2 76.6 Women. 44.2 48.4 44.2 41.9 48.7 48.4 40.3 42.1 37.0 53.2 58.6 52.3 64.2 68.5 61.3 41.4 44.6 14.3 11.7 12.2 Children. 10.6 8.3 14.3 13.3 10.7 16.2 7.3 7.0 11.8 9.8 5.8 17.8 10,4 6.6 12.7 10.8 7.9 3.7 4.1 11.2 1 Includes 2,115 officers and clerks whose salaries are not reported. Table 10 shows that the total number of wage-earners increased from 1880 to 1890, and from 1890 to 1900, in each case, by about 140,000. To this number the wool industry contributed but slightly (the total addi- tion in twenty years being only 26,436), whereas the number of wage-earners in cotton, in silk, in hosiery, in flax, hemp, and jute, and in dj'eing and finishing all increased largely. The increase in the number of men during the past decade was 75,155; of women, 41,774; of children, 27,285. The preponderance of increase in the case of men is shown most clearly in the columns showing the percentage. In the industry as a whole the number of men in a hundred employed has increased from 41.5 in 1880 to 43.3 in 1890 and to 45.2 in 1900. The proportion of women showed an increase from 1880 to 1890 of from 44.2 to 48.4, but during the past decade has declined to 44.2. The proportion of children had decreased in the twenty years from 14.3 to 10.6, but shows an increase during the last decade, owing to cir- cumstances which have already been mentioned. These several movements affecting the proportionate number of men, women, and children are seen most plainly in the case of the cotton manufacture, where the proportion of men has increased in twenty years from 34.4 to 44.8, and during the same period the proportion of women has decreased from 48.4 to 41.9. The causes of the shifting of employment from women to men is discussed in the report upon the cotton manu- facture. So far as the other industries are concerned, there has been little change, but that which has taken place corresponds, so far as men are concerned, to the changes just noted, but a considerable decrease in the number of children has, in some cases, resulted in an increase in the number of women employed. GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION. Table 11 presents a comparative summary of the industry by states arranged geographically, exclusive of flax/hemp, and jute for 1880, 1890, and li»()0. 14 MANUFACTURES. Table 11.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, NOT INCLUDING FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1880 TO 1900. United States. New England states . Maine . New Hampshire. Vermont . Massachusetts . Rhode Island. Connecticut . Middle states. New York. New Jersey — Pennsylvania . Delaware. Maryland . 6outhern states. Virginia. West Virginia . North Carolina . South Carolina . Georgia. Kentucky . Alabama . 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1SS0 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 61890 51880 1900 1890 1S80 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. 4,171 4,114 4,018 1,124 1,210 1,214 101 107 126 97 118 126 43 45 58 533 496 210 204 194 190 203 214 1,969 1,914 1,540 528 615 480 323 240 186 1,076 1,010 822 16 11 13 26 702 486 613 57 225 124 72 74 46 49 103 72 69 122 45 22 ::u Capital. 81,001,005,815 739,973,661 412,721,496 524, 899, 362 426,365,388 261,561,147 36,720,083 30, 990, 097 19, 932, 406 44,107,098 43,891,412 31,247,024 6,724,920 5,491,250 3,750,257 273,562,835 215,254,813 120,443,376 97,444,185 70, 699, 470 46, 989, 447 66,340,241 60,038,346 39,198,637 307, 765, 675 222,402,855 115,483,359 93, 392, 958 75,881,672 42, 022, 987 76, 183, 937 43,321,016 16, 028, 770 126, 346, 788 92, 686, 227 51, 238, 747 2, 174, 398 2, 555, 233 1, 227, 129 9, 667, 594 7,958,707 4, 965, 726 137,172,561 62, 623, 729 20, 413, 414 6,759,667 4,089,511 1,646,850 1, 212, 971 408, 881 328, 170 34, 458, 422 11, 195, 122 3, 058, 900 39, 767, 684 11,144,233 2, 784, 000 25, 606, 170 18,171,990 6, 543, 390 3,951,418 4,142,815 1, 255, 750 6, 384, 194 4, 322, 336 1,564,264 11,944,398 2, 965, 713 1,275,400 SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. Number. 16, 181 1 10, 179 ( 2 ) 5,633 •3,524 350 217 382 109 70 2,713 1,711 1,116 645 551 7,165 4,467 2,070 1,459 1,740 778 3,114 2,104 150 2,222 1,118 759 260 397 244 56 109 123 121 172 55 Salaries. 555, 963 302,438 622,437 419, 199 147,128 72,438 4, 744, 037 2, 498, 825 2,034,498 821,685 1,423,307 801, 188 8,924,195 5,076,869 2,707,559 1,829,231 2, 478, 193 954, 171 3, 426, 774 2, 147, 210 113,896 37, 948 197, 773 108, 309 2,465,069 960, 968 136,789 59,765 32, 830 13,282 652, 124 186, 825 564, 863 136, 080 491, 604 216, 276 84,323 111, 694 137, 337 99, 485 211, 251 47, 318 WAGE-EARNERS. Average number. 640, 548 501,718 s 384, 251 286,469 256, 018 217, 674 21, 938 19,794 15, 869 29, 533 29,243 24, 743 3,613 2,970 3,204 149,039 125, 108 106, 743 49, 877 47,426 36, 622 32,469 31,477 30, 493 221, 944 180, 669 132,884 64, 734 60, 924 45, 153 46, 985 101,845 79,277 58,005 1,882 1,506 1,058 6,498 5,028 4,557 109, 501 43, 650 19, 409 5,611 2,870 1,477 924 291 365 32, 367 9,016 3,528 30, 636 8,072 2,066 20, 117 10, 866 6, 529 2,335 2,767 1,181 4,251 3,051 1,446 8, 592 2,510 1,508 Total wages. 8202, 690, 706 163,616,593 105, 050, 666 101,934,256 86,973,178 60,611,202 7, 369, 946 6,277,442 4, 204, 778 10,088,051 9, 624, 933 6, 904, 069 1, 253, 388 1, 043, 588 807, 048 53, 819, 143 43,091,382 29,801,616 17,863,957 16,013,599 10,127,287 11,539,771 10,922,234 8, 766, 404 74, 632, 681 62, 435, 733 38,013,381 22, 606, 600 20,834,522 12,652,423 17, 188, 137 12, 750, 224 7, 652, 833 32,624,316 27, 089, 420 16,560,274 621,729 508, 169 301.231 1,591,899 1, 253, 398 846, 620 19, 858, 949 8, 810, 088 3, 254, 936 1,272,256 568, 394 241,509 211,782 66, 098 51,361 5, 492, 194 1,560,904 462, 854 5, 162, 931 1,510,609 382, 017 3, 872, 313 2,274,945 1,166,654 515, 780 692, 400 231,765 790, 031 635, 610 228, 134 1,526,759 467, 818 243,035 Miscellane- ous ex- penses. 860, 444, 630 43, 356, 736 26, 403, 681 24, 501, 029 2, 358, 238 1, 867, 550 2,264,958 2,339,287 282, 863 301,466 13,072,020 12,930,047 5,222,431 4,260,785 3,203,171 2,801,894 26,481,180 14, 352, 458 6,683,087 4, 840, 584 7, 309, 634 2, 952, 104 11,783,429 6, 052, 430 175, 615 122, 690 529,415 384, 650 5,488,519 2,691,420 292,451 177,750 97, 913 27, 708 1, 099, 890 442, 056 1, 556, 500 528. 236 1,145,149 751,515 175, 392 246, 643 239, 289 230,116 Cost of materials used. 8489, 147, 315 421, 398, 196 302, 709, 894 222, 297, 451 211,974,959 172,223,778 15,524,745 14,495,290 12, 148, 526 20, 675, 482 22,225,159 18,809.037 3,378,931 2,626,232 2,881,935 113,354,739 107, 465, 624 84, 228, 717 42, 458, 004 37,911,493 27, 708, 649 26, 910, 550 27,251,161 26, 446, 914 187,031,904 161,124,539 106, 328, 536 50, 273, 512 47,621,495 30, 610, 901 38, 795, 102 29,682,210 17,456,679 92, 301 , 856 78,869,158 53, 999, 549 1,377,168 1, 007, 270 975, 490 4, 284, 266 3, 944, 406 3,285,917 63, 624, 678 32, 624, 416 12,781,692 530, 323 158,734 3, 322, 334 1,998,555 1,023,471 584, 417 225, 961 290, 343 18,290,225 6, 553, 635 1, 719, 352 17, 602, 500 6, 820, 132 1,827,755 12, 207, 425 8,038,042 4, 203, 557 2, 030, 684 2. 300, 959 i; 107, 523 2, 266, 543 2, 525, 198 976, 815 4,978,680 1,573,938 833, 072 Value of products. 8883, 892, 959 721,949,262 632, 673, 488 412, 875, 975 365, 613, 324 310, 542, 352 29, 394, 372 24,911,165 21, 470, 567 37, 495, 180 37, 256, 364 32,757,35* 5,657,217 4, 744, 326 4, 671, 041 213, 612, 791 184, 938, 074 152, 988, 522 77, 988, 396 67,005,615 51,383,569 48, 728, 019 46, 757, 780 47,271,300 334, 247, 580 279, 576, 396 183,443,725 93,819,618 86,171,293 56,191,417 72, 933, 823 52,831,023 31, 865, 348 157,333,201 132, 367, 499 88, 594, 143 2, 592, 201 1, 821, 278 1,536,260 7,568,887 6,385,303 6, 256, 557 107, 318, 831 49, 729, 674 20,381,689 5,762,329 2,964,171 1, 618, 930 987, 622 395, 700 413, 586 29, 996, 558 10,053,264 2, 857, 642 30, 274, 086 9, 801, 956 2,919,844 20, 266, 712 12, 450, 098 6, 749, 784 3,274,519 3,785,436 1,689,694 3, 907, 279 3, 724, 138 1,495,441 8,414,020 2, 398, 646 1,291,764 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See detailed summary for each industry.) « Not reported separately. ^Includes 2,115 officers and clerks whose salaries were not reported. * Not reported. 'Includes the reports from 1 establishment in Florida not reported separately. COMBINED TEXTILES. 15 Table 11.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, NOT INCLUDING FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1880 TO 1900— Continued. BTATES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. WAGE-EARNERS. Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of materials used. Value of Number. Salaries. Average number. Total wages. products. Southern states— Continued. 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 11 16 16 15 8 27 3 6 2 8 5 3 376 504 651 $2,538,499 3,607,198 1,453,640 293, 353 164, 236 160, 550 1,741,688 1,516,660 195, 000 2,514,097 895, 034 147, 500 31,168,217 28,581,689 15, 263, 576 55 43 $72,418 38,264 2,010 2,223 940 198 103 154 1,335 1,237 108 1,125 644 107 22, 634 21,381 14,284 $400,188 558, 987 186, 314 36,290 15, 856 20, 565 282,536 267,468 12, 572 295, 889 190, 999 28, 166 6, 264, 820 5, 397, 594 3,171,147 $135, 684 75, 676 $884,160 1, 380, 009 548, 795 111,498 46, 557 119, 277 584, 324 737,212 72, 470 761, 888 424, 218 59, 262 16, 193, 282 15, 674, 282 11,376,888 $1,670,153 2,257,583 978, 698 11 12 7,428 5,250 4,985 8,775 199,471 71,913 177, 430 18 16 26, 941 22, 574 79, 887 15,650 131,056 28,561 1,162,752 1,126,751 86, 776 31 20 47, 151 24, 155 1,403,330 700, 018 102, 100 1,171 1,070 1,415,348 977, 140 2,071,250 1,811,829 29, 450, 573 27, 029, 868 18,305,722 Ohio 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 U900 U890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 67 125 163 51 44 51 35 61 95 66 60 53 37 75 85 27 25 15 14 20 37 29 45 109 4,019,267 4,820,526 2, 323, 340 3,652,060 1,691,461 726, 189 6, 553, 302 6,431,065 3,413,105 5, 440, 759 4, 603, 613 1, 559, 964 4,345,696 4,119,495 1,825,203 1,246,829 815, 144 203, 500 620, 164 896, 741 655, 700 702. 309 896,020 1,665,550 156 210 165, 297 189, 614 2,834 3,760 2,839 3,563 1,551 1,397 4,672 4,283 2,784 4, 135 3,747 1,146 3,361 3,871 2,337 693 439 263 366 494 505 441 733 1,350 796,276 940, 904 511,923 873, 902 366, 098 185,364 1,393,935 1,010,179 662, 310 998, 616 807,483 285, 566 961,332 1,113,005 555,209 168,251 135, 282 55, 327 82, 825 146, 170 118, 252 112, 521 163, 215 235, 107 364,752 314, 894 2, 690, 483 3,233,787 1, 780, 099 2,850,219 1,110,018 624,241 2,949,048 3,208,276 2,587,954 2, 616, 810 2,399,217 1,096,474 2, 205, 394 2, 42G, 564 1,937,336 469, 667 398. 300 190, 867 213, 769 629,832 437. 301 325, 785 452,068 1,105,497 4,828,889 5,437,483 3,032,669 243 84 225, 338 64, 898 340, 247 119, 060 4,878,984 1,964,974 928, 766 197 151 316, 512 130,884 323,925 379, 881 5,561,460 5,214,211 4,074,576 197 137 244, 319 145,450 365, 213 279, 328 4, 667, 294 4,100,201 1,827,275 148 201 211, 505 202, 330 294,943 234,455 4,087,369 4,666,115 2, 980, 116 41 36 50,107 35,421 67,648 70, 917 906, 904 730,458 303, 378 38 45 29,321 35, 470 24,722 53,069 386,055 899,918 682, 812 25 71 28, 628 41,052 27,472 38, 608 568,028 798, 736 1,563,641 6 13 14 12 12 6 10 14 20 14 11 9 1 141, 425 509, 881 612, 579 402, 000 1,178,370 1,350,585 566, 800 1,819,481 3, 235, 263 1,840,800 1, 080, 099 109, 197 40,000 126 291 324 306 675 358 216 922 1,733 986 781 88 29 26,075 92, 514 104, 601 70, 208 209,421 142,538 86,088 340, 420 448, 224 375, 718 234, 807 19, 895 4,000 107, 401 148, 157 189, 339 150, 698 467, 205 327,502 227, 486 886,260 1,238,067 1,078,534 470, 486 68, 312 52, 000 212,065 Utah 27 20 15, 310 16, 575 22, 333 29, 301 292,200 392,094 287,361 30 44 33,420 32, 775 74, 863 86,906 901,512 614, 932 549,030 40 61 51,568 68,366 100, 821 199, 373 1,463,936 2,080,215 1,794,033 29 10 44, 023 5,305 64, 311 6,037 907, 942 130, 531 70,000 1 Included in "all other Western states." ^Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Colorado, 2; Idaho, 2; Kansas, 2; Montana, 1; Nebraska, 2; North Dakota, 1; Wyoming, 1. 1890— Colorado, 2; Idaho, 1; Kansas, 2; Nebraska, 1; South Dakota, 2; Washington, 1. 1880— Washington, 1. A comparison of the facts relating to the textile in- dustry by geographic divisions and states illustrates a condition that has existed from the beginning and which is undergoing a slow but steady change, namely, that the establishments engaged in this manufacture are concentrated most densely in the Northeastern part of the country, but that the Southern states are rapidly advancing in the number and importance of their estab- lishments. The capital in the year 1900 reported by the New England states is slightly more than one-half of the whole country; in 1890 it was 57.6 per cent, and in 1880 it was 63.4 per cent. A somewhat similar condition is shown in the number of wage-earners, the amount paid for wages, the cost of materials, and the value of products. The percentages differ from those given for capital, but in general the importance of New England, as shown by these items, is nearly or quite that of all the rest of the country, but is less than it was in 1890, and still less than the condition in 1880. Among the New England states Massachusetts is, as 16 MANUFACTURES. it has always been, conspicuously in the lead. Practi- cally one-half of the capital, the employees, the wages paid, materials used, and products are to be credited to that state. Rhode Island is second among the New England states, and Connecticut is third, this order having been observed without variation ever since the textile manufacture existed in the United States. Taking capital as the standard, the Middle states represent 30.7 per cent of the total for the country, Pennsylvania being first, New York second, and New Jersey third. The sudden springing of the Southern states into prominence in this industry is shown strikingly by the total increase of capital from $20,413,414 in 1880 to $62,623,729 in 1890, and to $137,172,561 in 1900. Ten years ago, and also in 1880, Georgia was easily the leader among the Southern states, but it has now been surpassed by both South Carolina and North Caro- lina, in each of which states the value of products was not much less than in the states of Maine and New Hampshire, where the industry has been established for half a century ; and in the number of hands employed both North and South Carolina surpass both of these two New England states. The growth in Alabama has been also very great, the amount of capital having almost exactly quadrupled in ten years. The situation in the Western states is not different from that which has previously existed. The textile industry has never obtained a strong foothold in these states, and shows no great tendency to become important. COTTON MANUFACTURES. MON TEXT 2 COTTON MANUFACTURES. By Edward Stanwood, Expert Special Agent. Civilized man finds three things absolutely essential to his life and comfort — food, shelter, and clothing. The labor necessary to procure the indispensable arti- cles which represent these wants diminishes as one ap- proaches the equator, and conversely it increases as one passes from torrid to temperate climates and thence onward toward the poles of the earth. Tillage of the soil, the construction of dwellings, and the conversion of skins and furs or of vegetable or animal fibers into clothing, are arts which establish themselves naturally wherever man fixes his abode. The provision of shel- ter always remains a local art, from the necessity of the case. An adequate supply of fuel, which is a concomi- tant of shelter, was frequently the first want for which pioneer communities in early times were compelled to provide from without. Next they supplemented their own provision of clothing with fabrics and gar- ments made elsewhere; and finally as population be- came dense, and labor was drawn from agriculture and was specialized in commerce and manufactures, they were obliged to import their food. In the sense indicated, the colonists of America were engaged in all the arts necessary to supply their own wants, and among those arts was the manufacture of cloth and of clothing. They were prohibited by the laws of the mother country from carrying on manufac- tures for purposes of trade and profit, but the house- hold manufacture always existed. A considerable part of their clothing was made from domestic material, spun and woven in their homes, and made up by members of their own families. When Hamilton wrote his great lieport on Manufactures, in 1791, he referred to certain branches of the textile industry as already established, yet at that time there was but one cotton factory where spinning was carried on by means of machinery moved by waterpower, and that factory had been established less than a year and had but 72 spindles. There were no woolen mills in the modern sense of the term, but there were many fulling mills where wool was prepared for household spinning. Although some progress was made during the next twenty years, it was not until the War of 1812 cut off foreign supplies that the cotton manufacture was truly " established." Since that time it has expanded steadily and marvelously. During every decade, not even excepting that which covered the years of the Civil War, there has been an increase in the number of operatives emplo3 T ed and in the quantity and value of the goods manufactured. The census of 1850 showed a total value of products of $61,869,184. Ten years later, in 1860, the value of products had almost doubled, being $115,681,774. In 1870 the value had increased to $177,489,739, a large part of the increase being due to inflation of the currency. The decline to normal price in the ensuing decade masked the actual growth of the industry, and in 1880 the value of products was only $192,090,110. In 1890 the value was $267,981,724; at the census of 1900 it was $339,200,320— five and a half times as much as in 1850, when it was alreadj^ the lead- ing manufacturing interest in the United States. It was the first, the largest, and the most typical factory industry in the country, and still holds its ranks, almost undisputed, in all these respects. The growth of the industry is sufficient proof, were such proof needed, that it has been profitable. Never- theless it has been subjected to many and sometimes protracted seasons of discouragement and loss. The margin between the price of a pound of raw cotton and that of a pound of goods, whether yarn or cloth, is, in the face of the keen competition which exists, so small that the profits of a mill during a whole year may de- pend upon the luck or judgment of the treasurer in buying his raw material at the right or the wrong sea- son, which in turn largely depends upon his skill or his fortune in forecasting a large or a small cotton crop. So far as that were the case, what one treasurer might lose another treasurer would gain, and the ultimate effect upon the profits of the industry as a whole would be nil. But the fact of a large or a small cotton crop makes an enormous difference in the profits of manu- facturers. The general condition of the country deter- mines the demand for goods, and consequently the price; but the cost of production depends greatly upon the price of cotton. Cheap cotton and a quick demand make the manufacture profitable; dear cotton, a slug- gish rate of consumption, and labor troubles reduce or extinguish profits. Unfortunately the latter set of con- ditions is too often presented. Fortunately it is not usually met in so virulent a form as to cause actual loss, and the situation does not ordinarily last long. 119) 20 MANUFACTURES. Upon the whole, the history of the past ten years was not one of prevailing prosperity. Two influences interfered to reduce profits — an extremely wide fluctua- tion in the price of cotton, and the great increase of competition caused by the growth of the industry in the Southern states. The first of these influences was general in its application; the other applied to Northern mills only. The new Southern mills, equipped with the most efficient machinery, favored by peculiar^ free conditions as to labor, chiefly engaged in the produc- tion of goods for which the demand was most steady, and helped not a little by close proximity to the field of supply of their raw material, were able to show con- stant and large profits; whereas their Northern compet- itors passed through seasons of no profit or of moderate gains, with only one or two- periods when their business was eminently satisfactory. The condition throughout the census year 1889-90 was highly favorable to manufacturers, and they made extraordinary profits. Barely 1 per cent of the cotton spindles in the country was idle, and most of those were so because they were antiquated and not worth running. But a rise in the price of cotton, from 10 cents a pound in January, 1890, to 11£ cents in April, brought discouragement, because a slackened demand for goods compelled a reduction in the price of cloth at the same time that the cost of producing it was in- creased. The change to unfavorable conditions was felt first in the great print-cloth center, at Fall River, where a stoppage of the mills and a general curtailment of production became necessary in August. Other branches of the cotton manufacture continued fairly profitable for a few months longer, but before the end of the year all branches were depressed. There was, nevertheless, a somewhat speedy recovery; an improve- ment set in quite early in the spring for all except print cloths, which continued to be weak. There was an extraordinary fall in the price of cotton, owing to the prospect of a large crop, from 12f cents in May, 1891, to 8 cents in June. Notwithstanding this favor- able turn of the market, the Northern mills felt the first check to prosperity, owing to Southern- competition. Again in September of that year it became necessary both to curtail production by the Fall River mills and to reduce wages. This time the means taken were effectual. Stocks were worked off and the market de- mand became strong. Accordingly the year 1892 was one of the good years of the industry. No complaints were heard from any part of the country. In 1893 there was once more a reverse. Cotton manufacturing in England, which had been in an ex- traordinarily depressed state in 1892, now became pros- perous, whereas in the United States it was dull and unsatisfactory. In August there were strikes and closing of mills, and the unfavorable conditions con- tinued throughout the year 1894. No doubt appre- hension by manufacturers of tariff legislation less favorable to their interests than the existing import duties went far to create the difficulties with which they contended. The passage of the act of 1894, how- ever, did no injury to the interests of the manufac- turers, and the industry revived, and was in a prosper- ous condition in 1895. Stocks were small prices were fair, and although cotton was higher, the results of the year were remunerative. This was brought about because mills were well provided with stocks of low- priced cotton of the 1894 crop, and the prospect of a short crop in 1895 gave tone to the market for cloth. Orders were large, prices advanced, machinery was in full operation, and the year 1895 ended with excellent prospects of a continuance of prosperity. These prospects were not realized. Early in 1896 the market demand began to decline, and as the machinery continued in operation, goods accumulated. The situa- tion became such that in June, efforts were made by means of auction sales of large stocks of goods to reduce the surplus. There was also the suggestion that there be once more an organized curtailment of production, which was not carried out. The at- tempt to work off the surplus goods was successful, and the prospects of manufacturers brightened to a cer- tain extent, but it was soon discovered that the market had been choked. Cotton advanced in price, narrow- ing the margin between the cost of raw cotton and the selling value of finished goods, and the demand was not great enough to absorb the output of the largely in- creased number of mills. The depression that existed in 1896 was due to the agitation and uncertainty that always prevail in a year of Presidential election, which were in this instance more acute than usual. But the peculiar situation. of the two markets that determine the financial result of a cotton manufacturer's opera- tions prolonged the depression, and continued it after other branches of business had begun to experience the great prosperity that marked the closing years of the century. Many mills were shut down in May and June, 1897. Renewed sales of goods by auction in the spring broke prices and demoralized the market, as well as reduced to petty proportions the demand for goods of current manufacture. There was another curtailment of production, then a great drop in the price of cotton; but the quick absorption of goods, owing to the gen- erally prosperous condition of the people, rectified the situation altogether, and manufacturers entered upon a somewhat prolonged period of great prosperity. The only interruption was in the print-cloth branch, which was in a very unfavorable condition at Fall River in 1898, and the average return upon capital by the mills of that city for the year was only 2.2 percent. But prosperity came to Fall River also during the year 1899, beginning about the month of March, and during the whole of the census year, from June, 1899, to June, 1900, all the mills of the country were fully occupied. Goods were produced from cotton costing within e. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 21 fraction of the lowest on record, and although they were sold at prices which were low as compared with the average for any five years in the past, yet they yielded a profit which, taking the country as a whole, has never been exceeded. It must always be borne in mind that the foregoing statements apply more particularly to establishments and to the conditions of trade in the manufacturing centers of the North. Prior to the close of the census year there had been scarcety any interruption of the exceeding prosperity of Southern spinners. Thev did not curtail production when many Northern manufac- turers were in a state bordering upon despair; on the contrary, a large number of their mills were running day and night. They did not seek to dispose of their product by auction, but sold all they could make at prices which gave their stockholders handsome dividends. THE FOREIGN TRADE IN COTTON GOODS. It is further to be noted in this connection that for the first time -in the history of American cotton manu- facturing, the domestic market was more than once relieved and steadied by the exportation of goods to foreign markets. This statement does not signify that the export of domestics is a new thing, for it was a feature of the American foreign trade eighty years ago, but that for the first time the existence of an important outlet for such goods saved manufacturers from a disastrous glut, and mitigated the keenness of the competition that became most serious when the South entered the market as a great producer. The history of the trade of the United States in cotton goods presents some peculiarities which distin- guish it from the trade in any other class of articles. In a broad sense the cotton manufacturers have pos- sessed the home market for three-quarters of a century. Nevertheless, in the intervening years there has been a large and important import trade. The seeming paradox disappears when the first of the following tables is critically examined. The imports consist mostly of goods which American manufacturers have never undertaken to produce on a large scale. An overwhelming proportion of the manufactures of cot- ton consumed in this and other countries consists of plain cloth woven from coarse or medium yarns. Save in a few exceptional years, the American manufacturers have been able to supply fully the demand for such goods. Meanwhile the arrangement of the tariff has been usually such that foreign manufacturers were not permitted to compete successfully in this market. Table 1 shows the annual imports of manufactures of cotton from 1821 to 1900, inclusive, as compiled from the annual reports on Commerce and Navigation, pub- lished by the United States Treasury Department. Table 1.— ANNUAL IMPORTS OF MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1821 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE. 1 Total value. CLOTHS. Value of clothing, ready- made, and other wear- ingapparel, not includ- ing knit goods Value of embroider- ies, laces, insertings, trimmings, and lace curtains, cords, and gimps. Value of knit goods made on knitting machines or knit by hand. THREAD (NOT ON All other YEAHS. Bleached and un- Printed, painted, and bleached. colored. WARPS, OR WARP YARNS. DRILLINGS. manufac- tures. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. Total. $91, 972, 247 $29, 300, 792 $52, 709, 603 $5, 422, 605 $1, 881, 685 $2, 657, 562 1821 7,788,514 10, 680, 216 8,869,482 7, 239, 759 12,509,516 8,348,034 9, 316, 153 10,996,230 8, 362, 017 7, 862, 326 116, 486, 231 2, 873, 383 3, 774, 992 3, 237, 513 1,991,666 3, 676, 451 2,565,004 2, 841, 215 2, 839, 547 2, 784, 984 2,716,037 21, 065, 018 4, 366, 407 5, 856, 763 4, 899, 499 4,609,236 7, 709, 830 5, 056, 725 5, 316, 546 6, 133, 844 4,404,078 4,356,675 75, 274, 878 397, 586 866, 618 629, 211 523, 821 545, 915 404, 870 439, 773 640, 360 586, 997 387,454 10, 268, 156 151, 138 181,843 103, 259 115, 036 201,549 175, 143 263, 772 344,040 173, 120 172, 785 4, 324, 967 1822 .... 1823 .... 1824 .... 1825 .... 375, 771 146, 292 454,847 1826 .... 1827 .... 1828.... 1, 038, 439 412, 838 229, 375 1829 .... 1830.... .1 Total. 5,553,212 1831.... 16, 090, 224 10, 399, 653 7, 660, 449 10, 145, 181 15, 367, 585 17,876,087 11, 150, 841 6, 599, 330 14, 692, 397 6,504,484 136,804,969 4, 399, 251 2, 379, 301 1. 218. 513 1, 793, 819 2. 747. 514 10, 046, 500 6, 355, 475 5, 181, 647 6, 688, 823 10, 610, 722 12, 192, 980 7, 087, 270 4,217,551 9, 000, 216 3, 893, 694 88, 005, 850 887, 957 1, 035, 513 623, 369 749, 356 906, 369 1, 358, 608 1,267,267 767, 856 1,879,783 792, 078 11,503,447 393,414 316, 122 343,059 379, 793 544,473 555, 290 404, 603 222, 114 779,004 387, 095 6,014,843 363, 102 313, 242 293,861 533, 390 1832.... 1833 .... 1834 .... 1835.... 558,507 974,074 744, 313 384, 618 874, 691 513, 414 10,994,086 1836.... 2, 795, 135 1,647,388 1,007,191 2, 158, 703 918, 203 16,674,286 1837 1838 1839 1840.... Total. $3, 612, 457 1841 .... 11,757,036 9,578,515 2,958,796 13,641,478 13,863,282 13,530,625 15,021,550 19, 138, 141 16,540,200 20, 775, 346 1, 573, 722 1, 285, 947 393, 105 1, 670, 769 1,823,451 1,597,120 2, 630, 979 2,487,256 1, 438, 635 1,773,302 7, 434, 727 6,168,544 1,739,318 8,894,219 8, 572, 546 8, 755, 392 10, 023, 418 12, 490, 501 10, 286, 894 13, 640, 291 980, 639 1,027,621 307, 243 1,121,460 1,326,631 1,308,202 1, 173, 824 1,383,871 1,315,783 1,558,173 863, 130 457, 917 26, 227 637, 006 565, 769 656, 571 511, 136 727, 422 770, 509 799, 156 904, 818 638,486 492,903 1,318,024 1842.... 1843 1844 .... 1845 .... 1,674,885 1, 213, 340 682, 193 661, 873 1,175,793 2, 331, 771 1846 1847 1848 1,387,218 1,552,586 672, 653 1 1849 1850 .... 1 Annual Reports on Commerce and Navigation, United States Treasury Department. 22 MANUFACTURES. Table 1.— ANNUAL IMPORTS OF MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1821 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE 1 — Continued. Total value. CLOTHS. Value of clothing, ready- made, and other wear- ingapparel, notinclud- ingknit goods. Value of embroider- ies, laces, insertings, trimmings, and lace curtains, cords, and gimps. Value of knit goods made on knitting machines or knit by hand. THREAD (NOT ON All other YEARS. Bleached and un- bleached. Printed, painted, and colored. "WARPS, OR "WARP YARNS. DRILLINGS. manufac- tures. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. Total. 8265, 744, 157 $64, 692, 197 8112,936,494 819, 794, 631 827, 728, 527 812,486,172 828, 106, 136 1851 „.. 22,921,093 20, 224, 552 28, 573, 070 34,803,055 18,524,167 27, 109, 018 29,815,480 18, 584, 810 26, 973, 381 38, 215, 531 186,119,390 1, 499, 044 2, 477, 486 2, 718, 846 2, 191, 217 12, 563, 522 19, 110, 752 21, 441, 082 741, 077 784, 964 1,164,207 29,195,616 14, 449, 421 11, 553, 306 14,623,268 17,423,249 2,715,425 2,289,863 4,056,621 5,088,667 895, 555 1,385,024 1,343,578 660,649 646,870 712, 379 7, 337, 253 2, 117, 899 2, 152, 340 3, 002, 631 3, 013, 664 2, 055, 595 2, 516, 848 3; 210, 287 2,120,868 3,228,036 4, 310, 359 28, 688, 747 980,839 887,840 1,095,518 1, 076, 987 997, 673 1, 276, 760 1, 401, 153 1,080,671 1,913,417 1, 775, 314 10,741,743 1, 158, 465 1852 863,717 1853 ., . 3,076,186 1854 .... 6,009,271 1855.... 2,011,822 1856 2, 819, 634 1857.... 2, 419, 380 1858 12,391,713 16,561,533 25, 934, 004 42, 920, 114 1,589,832 1859 3,838,561 1860 4, 319, 268 Total. 160, 189, 415 152, 889, 316 83,349,446 28, 828, 725 86,996,084 56,890,387 1861 24, 985, 389 8, 907, 305 14, 121, 589 14,341,501 7, 558, 932 29, 519, 228 26, 164, 007 16,660,074 20,481,312 23,380,053 266,905,606 705, 156 1,140,969 1,527,455 1, 424, 775 1,059,215 7, 808, 027 5, 276, 551 2, 795, 079 3, 533, 132 3, 925, 266 26, 001, 955 14,947,744 1, 573, 583 1,921,835 1,737,001 1,452,930 6,944,712 5, 062, 505 2,315,849 2,960,918 4,003,037 25,851,170 341,880 4U2, 578 693,672 741, 310 381,851 1, 467, 392 1,767,243 1,541,327 3, 822, 761 1,380,119 1, 116, 782 1, 605, 781 1,279,424 608, 292 1,459,392 1, 617, 149 1,674,804 3, 787, 729 1862 . . . 13, 343, 169 15,911,460 12,039,629 7,400,680 55, 127, 685 15, 651, 728 17,007,719 9,689,441 10,278,826 48,762,557 4, 673, 393 1863 8, 372, 846 1864 9,158,991 1865 .... 2, 025, 767 5,020,167 5, 620, 776 3, 457, 525 4,007,276 4, 734, 475 51, 287, 968 2, 569, 706 13,473,049 466, 835 2,146,377 1,717,941 855, 374 991,051 818, 506 4, 330, 640 1,564,042 1866.... 676, 101 1,445,459 1,227,886 3, 997, 060 1867 3, 656, 383 1868 2, 702, 239 1869 .... 26, 860, 638 29, 506, 154 211, 443, 055 21,480,786 30,027,259 189, 363, 275 6,947,359 5,838,611 29,963,783 8,988,935 1870 9, 898, 769 Total. 159, 483, 873 1871 29, 876, 640 35, 307, 447 35,201/324. 28, 193, 869 27, 738, 401 22, 725, 598 18, 923, 614 19,081,037 19, 928, 310 29,929,366 302,987,592 36, 938, 026 41,700,373 31,152,540 26,361,866 23, 418, 257 15, 007, 450 11,048,698 9, 676, 594 6, 673, 088 9,466,163 47, 307, 813 4,883,622 5, 316, 877 3, 865, 558 3, 093, 933 2,873,222 1,845,653 1,237,312 1,076,142 789, 359 1,020,277 5,015,870 28, 975, 876 36,578,465 33, 355, 661 23,380,235 18,399,891 15,501,344 10, 299, 915 ' 8, 335, 123 5, 195, 126 9, 341, 639 199,782,036 3,634,315 4, 975, 624 5,028,256 3, 155, 494 2, 593, 936 2,074,944 1,415,112 1, 086, 426 707, 064 1, 179, 999 24,741,393 5,085,993 5,451,523 5,449,208 4, 621, 259 4.948,024 4, 682 871 3,804,520 4,682,246 4,997,335 7,514,989 71,435,037 5, 386, 146 6,483,461 3,685,477 2, 220, 653 1, 955, 825 1, 299, 627 641, 611 825, 328 1,043,268 6, 422, 387 24,895,570 737,251 878, 580 536, 393 327, 138 268, 739 182, 257 86, 919 104, 633 141, 066 1, 067, 664 4, 384, 210 15,535,459 1872 18,684,843 1873 20, 321, 909 1874 16,996,045 1875 .... 17,054,480 1876 13,939,873 1877 12,379,751 1878 12, 131, 590 1879 13,293,486 1880 19, 146, 437 Total. 3, 134, 912 74, 346, 572 11, 184, 870 6,303,612 113,625,986 1881 31,219,329 34. 351. 292 36,853,689 29, 074, 626 27,197,241 29,709,266 28,940,353 28, 917, 799 26, 805, 942 29,918,055 314,624,770 29. 712. 624 28,323,841 33. 560. 293 22, 346, 547 33. 196. 625 32, 437, 504 34,429,363 27, 267, 300 32, 054, 434 41, 296, 239 11,236,712 13,798,147 9, 368, 287 1,687,613 856, 213 2, 176, 606 3,021,696 1,077,070 2,577,230 1,508,239 20,444,335 1,253,428 1, 503, 127 1,039,752 174, 323 103, 200 225, 103 301,636 82, 613 203, 100 129, 588 1,831,419 7, 128, 360 6,687,837 7, 163, 340 119,504,784 i 24, 274, 281 l 29, 551, 543 124,928,404 126,483,126 127,808,959 126,251,402 2 412,063,936 928,043 924, 602 1,120,574- 2, 187, 044 2,653,320 3,467,485 3, 033, 946 3,356,532 3, 696, 194 3,373,653 52,536,729 8,391,634 7,501,449 8,560,063 6,994,341 6,307,239 6,858,072 6, 910, 104 6, 373, 780 6, 389, 325 7, 149, 030 54, 733, 325 7, 608, 861 12, 797, 527 4, 489, 182 1,332,326 2,257,594 794, 290 19, 313, 898 1882 22, 164, 520 1883 25,339,010 7, 574, 345 1884 792, 402 408, 810 384,770 436,356 392,307 383,612 336,655 17,190,458 10,012,394 10, 123, 234 11, 632, 351 10,467,073 11,071,907 9,591,943 11, 447; 670 123, 266, 407 1, 895, 699 . 909, 480 1, 147, 181 1,894,798 1,886,672 1, 744, 852 1,706,188 20,891,442 1,339,777 652, 202 669, 096 919, 994 957, 705 860, 703 904, 135 8,426,407 1885 6, 949, 236 1886 6, 472, 389 1887 6,871,244 1888 6, 682, 955 1889 5,681,065 1890 6, 577, 324 56, 640, 025 Total . 1891.... 1, 802, 397 1, 572, 224 3, 225, 767 1,152,798 1, 544, 421 2, 136, 657 3, 177, 241 1,520,108 1,250,932 3, 061, 790 170, 423 140,001 261, 202 95, 565 125, 816 179, 364 273, 654 120, 767 107, 023 357, 604 131,055,214 132,407,238 142,546,157 127,172,415 145,342,525 141,161,822 135,937,975 1 43, 258, 291 1 51, 196, 236 1 61, 986, 063 24,237,221 2 4,505,666 2 5,536,275 2 3,385,241 2 5,428,243 24,921,060 B4, 404, 025 2 6,313,683 2 6,649,014 2 8,156,301 1,201,278 1,261,848 1,682,049 1, 658, 778 2, 766, 877 2, 683, 315 2, 627, 222 1, 050, 554 1,027,306 1,231,231 10, 589, 490 11, 248, 289 12, 741, 798 8,021,769 11, 686, 016 10, 878, 954 12, 573, 207 11, 768, 704 14, 550, 015 19, 208, 105 6,738,775 5,833,652 6, 392, 175 4,360,655 6, 535, 179 6, 190, 672 5, 596, 703 4, 034, 483 4, 335, 269 4, 715, 762 1, 686, 039 1, 426, 585 1,734,418 747,038 1, 784, 855 2,431,855 1, 664, 217 1,817,970 2, 325, 974 5,272,491 857, 645 664, 952 762, 653 326,224 658, 702 872, 067 647, 388 687, 999 849, 819 2, 098, 958 5, 917, 792 1892 .... 4,669,433 6, 184, 141 4, 498, 315 5, 995, 792 6,712,072 8,307,164 4,291,110 4, 535, 988 5, 528, 218 1893.... 1894 .... 1895.... 1896.... 1897.... 1898 .... 1899 .... L900.... i Includes " bleached.' Table 1 shows that from 1821 to 1855 th« value of plain, uncolored cotton cloth imported exceeded 14,000,000 in a single year only, the 3 r ear 1831; and that the an- nual average value of such goods imported declined from $2,930,079 in the decade 1821-1830, to $2,106,502 in the decade 1831-1840, and to $1,667,429 in the decade 1841-1850. Except during the three years 1855-1857 the importation was not materially greater during the ensuing decade; and notwithstanding the great advance of the country in population and wealth, the annual average value of the same class of goods in the years 1891-1900 was but $183,142. This class consists of fabrics which are reported by the census as plain cloths for printing and converting, sheetings and shirtings, duck, etc. , the value of the domestic production of which is so large that the foreign importation is undoubtedly less than 2 per cent of it. The same table shows that the average value of the COTTON MANUFACTURES. 23 imported cloths per square yard is much above the value of the domestic article. This is because the importa- tion is confined almost exclusively to fine goods, which American manufacturers have only lately begun to pro- duce. Another class of importations which is larger than that already mentioned is colored goods. Some purchasers have so rooted a preference for foreign ginghams and calicoes that they will not buy the Amer- ican product. The imports of such goods have lately shown a tendency to increase, but the value of colored cloth imported in 1900, when the amount was the largest in recent years, was little more than twice the annual average from 1860 to 1883. The most important im- portations of cotton are the fancy articles, classed as embroideries, laces, trimmings, cords, gimps, etc., which, ^ "ith knit goods, constitute more than one-half of the total value of all articles of cotton imported. In short, the trade in foreign manufactures of cotton is almost altogether in special classes of goods which are not made extensively in the United States, or in articles which the customs and habits of buyers lead them to pre- fer, regardless of considerations of cost or superiority. Table 2 shows the annual exports of cotton manufac- tures from 1826 to 1900, inclusive, as compiled from the annual reports on Commerce and Navigation pub- lished by the United States Treasury Department. Table 2.— ANNUAL EXPORTS OF MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1826 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE. 1 Total. 1826. 1827 . 1828. 1829. 1830. Total. 1831. 1832. 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1839. 1840. 1841. 1842. 1843. 1844. 1845. 1846. 1847. 1848. 1849. 1850. Total. 1851. 1852. 1853. 1854. 1855. 1856. 1857. 1858. 1859. 1860. Total. 1861. 1862. 1863. 1864. 1865. 1866. 1867. 1868. CLOTHS. Wearing ap- parel. Value. All other manu- factures. Total value. Uncolored. 1 Colored. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 85,885,411 84, 637, 597 8396, 840 8850,974 1,138,125 830,532 965, 751 892,777 983, 248 965, 289 20,626,289 68,884 45, 120 76, 012 145,024 61,800 3,079,661 i 238, 709 1, 159, 414 1,010,232 1,259,457 1, 318, 183 25,203,681 148, 543 41, 443 131,186 291, 094 1,497,731 1,126,313 1,229,574 2, 532, 517 2,085,994 2,858,681 2, 255, 734 2,831,473 3,758,755 2,975,033 3,549,607 39,557,256 950, 329 1,053,232 1,804,170 1,757,197 2, 355, 602 1, 951, 432 2, 044, 930 3,256,147 2,526,793 2, 926, 457 31, 797, 461 96, 931 104, 870 421, 721 188,619 397, 412 266,625 649,801 252,044 412, 661 398, 977 4,181,847 79,053 71, 472 306, 626 140, 178 105, 667 47, 677 236, 742 250,564 35, 679 224, 173 3, 577, 948 3,122,546 2, 970, 690 3,223,550 2,898,780 4,327,928 3,545,481 4,082,523 6,718,205 4,933,129 4,734,424 73, 059, 955 2, 324, 839 2, 297, 964 2, 575, 049 2, 298, 800 3, 517, 142 2,827,320 3, 354, 696 4,868,924 3, 958, 320 3,774,407 37,416,124 460, 503 385,040 368, 415 385,403 6115, 243 380, 549 281, 320 351,169 466, 574 606, 631 18,268,343 347,204 287, 686 290, 086 214, 577 294,543 337, 612 446,507 498, 112 508, 235 353, 386 17, 375, 488 7, 241, 205 7 672 151 5,671,576 6, 139, 391 6, 926, 485 3, 927, 148 2, 793, 910 4, 290, 361 3,463,230 1,598,136 1,302,381 1,403,506 6, 712, 606 1, 076, 959 508, 004 264, 751 56, 639 58, 469 718, 006 1, 142, 451 1, 551, 339 1, 006, 561 926, 404 1, 086, 167 1, 136, 493 2, 613, 655 1, 966, 845 1, 785, 685 2, 069, 194 2,320,890 3, 356-449 6, 487, 918 663, 068 606, 356 8,768,894 5, 535, 516 5, 857, 181 6, 967, 309 6, 115, 177 5,651,504 8, 316, 222 10, 934, 796 39, 839, 343 756,242 471, 875 449,616 710, 103 866, 262 1, 984, 174 4,692,951 6, 174, 841 28, 477, 444 12, 912, 363 26, 638, 819 7, 957, 038 2,946,464 2, 906, 411 1, 456, 901 3, 651, 561 1, 780, 175 4, 608, 235 4,871,054 5,874,222 3,787,282 2, 215, 032 587, 600 630, 558 401, 411 857, 573 88,742 139, 964 531,669 4, 665, 047 1, 850, 960 2, 021, 102 177, 065 122, 372 3, 041, 715 6, 020, 731 10, 839, 177 1,569,235 1, 218, 724 405, 988 674,426 2,979,275 998, 851 2,735,519 973, 427 3, 325, 820 2, 788, 046 5,874,222 8, 276", 384" 1, 345, 988 1 6, 064, 715 1,035,469 1,405,825 1 Annual Reports on Commerce and Navigation, United States Treasury Department. 24 MANUFACTURES. Table 2.— ANNUAL EXPORTS OF MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1826 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE 1 — Continued. CLOTHS. Wearing ap- parel, value. YEARS. Total value. Uncolored. Colored. manu- factures. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Total $66, 210, 965 445, 869, 911 $39, 672, 104 190,462,398 $16, 454, 141 $10, 084, 320 1871 3,558,136 2, 304, 330 2, 947, 928 3,095,840 4,071,882 7, 722, 978 10,235,843 11,438,660 10,853,950 9,981,418, 127,491,518 14, 832, 931 8, 859, 191 10, 187, 145 13, 247, 142 21,224,020 59,319,267 76,769,147 88, 528, 192 84, 081, 319 68, 821, 557 1, 062, 022, 145 1,776,694 1,317,719 1,655,116 1,681,209 2, 313, 270 5, 314, 738 6,437,223 7,053,463 6,288,131 5,834,541 77,387,248 5,083,923 2,844,888 3,585,629 4,625,180 7,593,723 16,488,214 29,601,304 37,765,313 45, 116, 058 37,758,166 456,655,097 724,841 458, 998 596, 912 668, 781 939, 061 1,455,462 2,484,131 2, 959, 910 3,209,285 2, 956, 760 31,215,625 1,056,601 1872 627, 613 1873 695,500 1874 745, 850 1875 819, 551 1876 952,778 1, 314, 489 1878 1, 425, 287 1879 1, 356, 534 1880 1, 190, 117 $4, 265, 408 14,623,237 188i 14, 105, 348 13, 828, 377 13, 721, 605 11, 885, 211 11, 836, 591 13, 959, 934 14, 929, 342 13, 013, 189 10,212,644 9,999,277 169,240,352 80, 399, 154 114,994,402 103, 634, 459 99, 750, 450 114,806,595 142,547,980 136,809,074 115, 766, 679 77,596,862 75,716,490 1, 784, 369, 304 6,624,374 9,351,713 8,629,723 7, 503, 361 7, 919, 670 9,231,170 9,256,486 7,812,947 5, 577, 401 5, 480, 403 97, 111, 912 68, 184, 293 29,525,672 34,066,292 35,441,296 32, 738, 123 51,293,373 67,793,013 54, 446, 936 40, 856, 329 42, 309, 770 661, 332, 474 4, 983, 312 2, 326, 319 2,648,278 2, 579, 866 2, 230, 567 3,149,091 4,003,772 3, 522, 612 2, 885, 373 2,886,435 37,566,275 533,961 605, 398 770, 460 349,270 267, 775 435,536 442, 757 317, 652 301, 803 240, 796 ' 7, 558, 516 1,963,701 1882 ... 1, 544, 947 1883 1, 673, 144 1884 1, 452, 714 1885 1, 418, 579 1886 1,144,137 1887 1, 226, 327 1888 ... : 1, 359, 978 1889 . 1, 448, 067 1890 1,391,643 Total 27,003,649 1891 13,604,857 13,226,277 11,809,355 14,340,886 13, 789, 810 16, 837, 396 21,037,678 17,024,092 23,566,914 24,003,087 135, 529, 590 142, 938, 871 100, 776, 006 124, 349, 278 125, 790, 318 166, 391, 639 230,123,603 191,092,442 303,063,083 264, 314, 474 9, 277, 112 8,673,663 6,306,022 7, 639, 851 7,034,678 9, 539, 199 12, 511, 389 9, 151, 936 13, 748, 619 13, 229, 443 39, 016, 682 40,815,450 43,016,108 61,538,458 58,467,743 58, 747, 729 83, 409, 441 79,415,376 108, 940, 972 87, 880, 515 2, 590, 934 2,484,360 2,802,462 3,854,935 3,444,539 3, 419, 158 4,770,231 4, 138, 887 5,221,278 4,839,491 278, 169 433, 102 452, 356 476, 617 518, 730 708, 099 878, 804 934, 192 1,275,839 1,602,608 1,458,642 1892 ... 1,635,152 1893 2,248,515 1894 . 2, 369, 483 1895 2,791,863 1896 3,170,940 1897 2,877,254 1898 2, 799, 077 1899 3,321,178 1900 4,331,545 i Annual Reports on Commerce and Navigation, United States Treasury Department. Table 2 shows that the exportation of cotton goods has been a feature of the foreign trade for more than seventy -five years. It is impossible to go further back than 1826, because the separate values of articles ex- ported were then reported for the first time. The trade was established soon after the foundation of the modern factory industry, at Waltham, Mass. It became promi- nent when that first great success was followed up in the development of Lowell. As early as 1851 the annual value of cotton goods exported exceeded $7,000,000; and it is safe to say that this amount represented more than one-half of the total value of American manufactures of all kinds sent to foreign countries in that year. The year 1860 marked the temporary culmination of this trade, when the declared value of cotton manufactures exported was but a trifle less than $11,000,000. The Civil War ensued and not only this branch of the for- eign trade, but the cotton trade itself also, was well- nigh annihilated for several years. When the growth of the cotton crop was resumed, the United States had lost its foreign markets, had given up its shipping formerly engaged in the foreign trade, and had closed most of the mercantile houses in other lands which had previously given its merchants access to the markets of Asia, Africa, and South America. More- over, the extraordinary increase of population and of wealth at home, and the great demand for cloth to replenish family supplies exhausted during the war period, gave manufacturers ample field for their enter- prise in supplying the home consumption. In these circumstances scarcely any attempt was made to recover foreign markets. The exportation declined to a value of less than $1,500,000 in 1864, and from 1866 to 1876, eleven years, the annual average was barely $4,000,000. From 1877 onward there was a moderate revival of the trade. In only five years in the last quarter of a cen- tury, 1877 to 1902, has the value fallen below the high mark of 1860, and on the whole there has been steady progress. The following table shows the value of exports of cotton goods in five-year periods: PERIOD. Total exports. Yearly average. 1877-1881 $56, 615, 219 65,231,718 61,759,309 70, 003, 724 105, 904, 189 $11,323,044 13, 046, 324 12,251,862 14,000,745 21,180,838 1882-1886 1887-1891 1892-1896 1897-1901 The exportation during the census years of the last half century has been as follows: In 1860, $10,934,796; in 1870, $3,787,282; in 1880, $9,981,418; in 1890, $9,999,277; and in 1900, $24,003,087. These figures do not show the actual progress so well as the preceding COTTON MANUFACTURES. 25 table, inasmuch as the exportation in 1880 and again in 1890 was less than during the years preceding or fol- lowing those dates. The exportation in 1900 was the largest on record in declared value, although in the quan- tity of goods it was not so great as in 1899. It was not possible, of course, to account for all the exports declared upon the clearing of vessels for for- eign ports, since a considerable part of the domestics sold abroad are made for the home market and are pur- chased for sale in other countries after they have passed wholly out of the control and the knowledge of manu- facturers; but so far as the managers of mills are able to trace their products, they furnished goods for export during the year 1899-1900 to the value of $15,357,502, or about five-eighths of the value of cloth exported during the fiscal year. Almost 60 per cent of the total value represents the product of Southern mills, and nearly 37 per cent the goods of New England. It is an interesting fact that South Carolina, which was histor- ically and politically, during the years preceding the Civil War, the most conspicuous champion of a policy favorable to the exportation of raw cotton, upon which the planters most relied, and opposed to the fostering of manufactures of cotton, spun in its own mills in 1900 a quantity of cotton exceeding the half of its own crop, and exported close upon one-half of all the cotton cloth reported to the census as having been dispatched to foreign countries. The exact percentage of South Carolina of the total export reported was 45.5. Table 3 shows the annual exports of foreign manu- factures of cotton goods from 1821 to 1900, inclusive, as compiled from the annual reports on Commerce and Navigation published by the United States Treasury Department. It is presented only for the purpose of furnishing the means of ascertaining — by subtracting the amounts and values from the corresponding statis- tics in Table 1 — the actual consumption of foreign goods. Table 3.— ANNUAL EXPORTS OF FOREIGN MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1821 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE. 1 Total value. CLOTHS. Value of clothing: ready-made and other wearing apparel. not including knit goods. Value of embroid- eries, laces, insertings, trimmings, and of lace and window curtains. Value of knit goods made on knitting machines or knit by hand. THREADS (NOT ON All other YEARS. Bleached and un- bleached. Printed, painted, and colored. WARPS, OR WARP- YARNS. DRILLINGS. manufac- tures. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. Total . $20, 747, 327 89, 740, 469 $9, 954, 599 $447, 591 $288, 994 $315,674 1821 1, 583, 473 1, 682, 010 2, 654, 174 2, 561, 168 2, 404, 455 2,226,090 1,838,814 2, 242, 739 1, 564, 940 1, 989, 464 23, 581, 508 1, 194, 910 1,083,253 379, 701 572, 626 1,206,502 1,544,231 1,105,252 1,032,381 964, 904 1,402,103 751,871 995,028 15,009,337 2,330 17, 314 36, 881 79, 191 46, 311 74,462 46, 788 44,988 42,222 57, 104 342, 713 6,532 8,817 24, 767 8,474 9,412 34, 862 63,413 46, 736 27,656 58,325 664, 813 1822.... 1823 1,386,024 929, 272 1824 1825 1,148,610 1,018,702 725, 636 730, 897 699, 468 823, 697 6, 916, 171 94,870 65,683 38 073 1826 1827 1828 18,015 43,723 65, 310 1829 1830 Total . 648,474 1831 3, 228, 858 2,322,087 2, 604, 618 2, 866, 854 3,697,837 2, 765, 676 2, 683, 418 1, 153, 506 1,255,265 1,103,489 6, 381, 153 1,211,104 968, 301 822, 911 893, 508 1, 248, 592 683,327 377, 465 271, 692 250,173 189, 098 1,583,311 1,746,442 1,094,412 1,352,286 1,818,578 2, 308, 636 1, 975, 156 2, 103, 527 826, HI 946, 636 838,553 3, 892, 170 57, 015 62, 775 46, 937 43, 649 33,994 16, 689 41, 360 14, 746 12, 916 13, 632 107, 048 70,254 29,026 134,229 62, 403 87, 089 78, 176 86,756 29, 768 34,082 63, 030 539, 911 144,043 167, 573 149, 155 48, 716 19,526 12,328 74,310 11, 189 12,458 9,176 198, 760 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 . . . 1839 1840 Total. $59, 953 1841 929,056 836, 892 308,616 404, 648 502,563 673, 203 486,135 1,217,221 583, 241 439,588 10, 543, 191 131,632 110, 069 33,998 90,381 162, 599 357, 047 83,715 487, 456 81,690 44,724 4, 315, 219 574, 503 502, 072 251,808' 278,434 281,775 290,282 372,877 640, 919 424,941 274, 559 2, 939, 349 15, 943 4,429 4,881 4,325 2,455 1,780 19, 595 20, 272 10, 425 22, 943 290, 033 198, 996 208, 193 15,028 24,958 10,922 8,482 3,808 40,783 7,718 21,023 327, 205 i 1842 12,129 2,901 6,550 44 802 1843 . . . 1844 1845 1846 15,612 6,140 17, 956 39, 182 45,506 2, 386, 844 1847 . . . 1848 9,835 19,285 30,833 284,541 1849 . . 1860 ... Total. . j 1851 .. 691, 784 1,018,285 1,259,313 1,515,584 2,083,854 1,607,340 575, 063 3%, 204 331, 072 1,064,692 132, 020 401,215 362,052 502,387 1,336,634 1, 145, 178 305, 392 40, 024 25,668 64,649 440, 441 457, 620 622,540 684, 483 31, 928 30,389 11,104 54,353 104, 492 32,333 6,754 5,216 2,131 25, 923 22,287 20, 396 62, 420 127, 191 17,531 11,819 6,813 ■? fi:« 20,546 49, 155 69,607 40, 795 38,460 46, 813 22.611'. 10,01'-' 1,-583 27,618 40, 926 67,619 173, 614 181, 146 477, 077 365, 485 228,482 208, 139 156, 379 497,977 1862 1853 1854 1855 . . 1856 1867 1868 126,000 142, 673 465, 592 1859 . I860.... 5.S41 3,016 'Annual Reports rn Commerce and Navigation, United States Treasury Department. 26 MANUFACTURES. Table 3.— ANNUAL EXPORTS OF FOREIGN MANUFACTURES OF COTTON, 1821 TO 1900, INCLUSIVE •—Continued. Total value. CLOTHS. Value of clothing ready-made and other wearing apparel, not including knit goods. Value of embroid- eries, laces, insertings, trimmings, and of lace and window curtains. Value of knit goods made on knitting machines or knit by hand. THREADS (NOT ON All other manufac- tures. YEARS. Bleached and un- bleached. Printed, painted, and colored. WARPS, OR WARP- YARNS. DRILLINGS. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Pounds. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. $5, 710, 385 8,640,053 $834, 314 10, 932, 705 81, 428, 134 $108, 061 $37,202 $58,362 $18,267 788, 805 $131, 762 $3, 094, 283 1861 .. 323, 897 341,324 714,358 372, 428 681,916 434, 672 409, 304 949, 411 541,599 • 941,476 9, 991, 789 32, 301 67,934 3,100 11,410 983 1,683 217, 896 1862 329, 914 1863 714,358 1864 . 372,428 1865. 681, 916 395, 018 582, 620 2,428,075 1, 790, 546 3, 443, 794 31,068,319 60, 323 67, 923 227, 165 155, 668 290,934 2,417,108 259, 011 545, 725 3, 750, 009 2, 293, 584 4, 084, 376 47,472,719 41, 472 80, 560 447, 805 297,263 493, 100 5,012,219 60, 557 19, 324 28,180 11,872 2,126 8,694 2,914 1,283 22, 961 9,854 20, 367 185, 302 19, 977 158,817 374,516 88,981 146, 514 3, 369, 768 3,085 28, 124 62,419 11,102 27, 032 508, 225 254,449 1,519 15, 065 208, 445 137, 122 1869 67, 712 1870 110,043 1, 808, 935 1871 1,703,029 1,380,048 1, 456, 946 1, 218, 092 997, 187 908, 612 699,450 551, 923 386, 870 689, 632 2, 851, 339 6,429,725 4, 200, 048 4, 355, 951 3, 505, 641 2,801,844 2, 286, 609 2,634,940 1,848,025 773, 167 2, 232, 369 4,945,717 493, 353 330, 543 351, 041 278, 897 223, 343 191,526 208, 899 129, 607 57, 803 152, 096 339, 128 8, 954, 387 6, 666, 891 6,549,228 4, 884, 367 4,619,899 4,400,036 3, 328, 721 2,859,015 1,617,072 3, 593, 103 7, 922, 925 996, 571 722, 742 727, 919 549, 164 501,265 456, 471 325, 639 260, 345 147, 449 324, 654 726, 036 22, 078 14, 163 20, 878 21, 279 26, 913 24, 520 11,388 17, 987 9, 459 16, 637 73, 664 262, 965 542,099 540, 107 445, 571 429, 931 426, 552 135, 874 118,209 203, 672 264, 788 907,444 45,377 89, 658 99, 008 81, 916 72, 227 69, 505 22,132 19,443 28,016 40,943 139,214 145,650 1872 222,942 1873 258,100 1874 286,836 1875 173,439 1876 166,590 1877 131, 392 1878 124,541 1879 . . . 144,143 1880 155,302 Total. 34,408 108,294 15, 957 5,180 1,425,415 1881 679, 075 498, 312 270,144 167,210 293, 381 435,735 160, 718 128,343 83, 779 134, 642 2,106,172 2,451,652 1, 833, 175 462,887 27,437 2,944 493 29, 869 65, 880 25, 326 46,054 161, 919 166, 594 128, 107 33, 200 2,602 206 26 1, 564 2,787 1,745 2,297 9,283 2,748,863 1,479,381 388,899 479, 973 237, 326 1,830,765 236, 943 141,199 180,620 198, 956 3,980,825 247,507 134, 633 37, 125 35, 052 20, 718 178, 878 24,459 13, 388 12,508 21,768 342, 166 14, 707 16,628 5,376 6,852 10, 103 4, 723 3,956 1,091 4,679 5,549 103, 062 341,680 261, 408 304,356 52,468 43, 979 42,767 197, 799 1882 174, 965 1883 151,676 1884 3,430 14, 504 1,245 764 1,981 4,756 7,728 186,013 7,496 28,650 18,341 27, 939 9,450 8,013 8,405 297, 818 5,014 5,209 2,135 934 2 352 2,311 80, 074 2,356 1,044 598 411 1 114 656 24,723 109, 422 1885 218, 156 231, 924 1886 1887 . 101,625 99,645 51, 964 1888 . . . 1889 1890 88,239 1, 143, 107 Total. 1891 129, 632 141,263 161,429 212, 380 177,604 291, 162 235,212 290, 036 179,351 288, 103 7,052 720 10, 500 18, 395 20, 955 60, 144 6,237 1,525 18,901 17, 490 401 40 478 1,384 1,066 2,986 292 107 1,104 1,425 196, 473 298, 965 223, 376 324, 256 242, 899 781,861 313, 196 1,012,910 215, 449 371,440 18, 800 29, 044 21, 167 32, 892 22,188 58, 775 28, 614 78, 125 19, 649 32, 912 6,384 7,708 8,504 21,735 22, 968 41,665 29, 992 16,654 12, 417 17,986 6,897 19, 097 55, 083 25, 746 40, 992 51, 608 26, 245 28, 166 14, 912 29, 072 ' 6,022 9,244 3,628 11,516 9,279 19, 753 17, 610 8,330 7,324 10, 356 4,557 1,922 89,206 76, 130 1892 .... 1893.... 1,700 26, 161 3,544 6,670 1,509 3,140 3,602 29, 191 464 5,524 954 2,875 590 1,241 1,244 9,909 72, 105 113, 583 80, 157 113,500 1894 .... 1895 .... 1896-... 1897.... 1898.... 157,413 122,701 186,448 1899.... 1900.... 1 Annual Reports on Commerce and Navigation, United States Treasury Department. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 27 THE GENERAL PROGRESS OF THE INDUSTRY. Table 4 presents the summary of the cotton manu- facture from 1840 to 1900, inclusive. The figures for 1900 do not include the manufacture of cotton small wares, which branch of the industry has been sepa- rately treated at the Twelfth Census, and is made the subject of a special chapter at the conclusion of the report on cotton manufactures. Table 4.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS, 1840 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 1870 to 1880 1860 to 1870 1850 to 1860 1840 to 1850 Number of establishments . . 973 $460,842,772 4,713 $7, 123, 574 297, 929 $85, 126, 310 134,354 $46,923,365 123,709 $32, 917, 933 39, 866 $5, 285, 012 $21,650,144 $173, 441, 390 $332, 806, 156 19,008,352 450, 682 3, 639, 495 1,814,002,512 905 $354,020,843 2 2,709 2 $3, 464, 734 218, 876 $66, 024, 538 88, 837 $33, 797, 517 106, 607 $29, 165, 086 23, 432 $3,061,935 $16, 716, 524 $154, 912, 979 $267,981,724 14, 188, 103 • 324, 866 2,261,600 1, 117, 945, 776 756 $208,280,346 m ( s ) 174, 659 $42,040,510 61,760 ( 3 ) 84, 558 ( 3 ) 28,341 SI $102, 206, 347 $192,090,110 10, 653, 435 225, 759 1,570,344 750, 343, 981 956 $140, 706, 291 Pi 135, 369 $39, 044, 132 42, 790 ( 3 ) 69, 637 ( 3 ) 22, 942 ( 3 ) h $111, 736, 936 $177, 489, 739 7, 132, 415 167, 310 ( 4 ) 398, 308, 257 1,091 $98, 585, 269 122, 028 $23, 940, 108 46, 859 ( 3 ) 75.169 1,094 $74, 600, 931 92, 286 33, 150 ( 3 > 59, 136 R Pi $34, 835, 056 $61,869,184 PI 641, 240 ( 4 ) 1,240 $51, 102, 359 PI 72, 119 (*) (?) ( 4 ) ( 8 ) 7.5 30.2 74.0 105.6 36.1 28.9 51.2 38.8 16.0 12.9 70.1 72.6 29.5 12.0 24.2 34.0 38.7 60.9 62.3 19.7 70.0 120.9 48.0 ■12.4 . 42.7 10.3 32.3 U1.8 45.8 Salaried officials, clerks, Wage-earners,average num- 25.3 57.0 43.8 29.0 7.7 44.3 10.9 63.1 18.7 32.2 28.0 Men, 16 years and over . . 41.4 Women, 16 years and 26.1 21.4 17.4 27.1 ( ( ( $57,26 $115, 66 { { \ 5,534 1.774 ( 4 ) ( 3 ) ( 4 ) ( 4 ) ( 4 ) $46,350,453 2, 284, 631 ( 4 ) PI Children, under 16 years. U7.3 23.5 Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used 51.6 39.5 33.2 43.9 44.0 49.0 18.5 8.2 49.4 43.5 95.1 53.4 36.2 24.5 64.5 87.0 33.5 Active spindles, number 5, 235, 727 126, 313 <«) 422, 704. 975 Cotton consumed, pounds. . . 88.4 ■5.8 i Decrease. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. 3 Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. (See Table 24.) The classification of cotton goods applies in all the statistics for the Twelfth Census to results in those establishments only in which the chief industry is the spinning of cotton yarn and the weaving of piece goods — one or both. The designation of cotton small wares applies to establishments chiefly engaged in the manufacture of the following classes of articles: Shoe and corset lacings, lamp and stove wicks, tapes, web- bings (other than elastic), lace edgings, dress and upholstery trimmings. In order to preserve the basis for comparison with statistics of former censuses, Table 5 combines the sta- tistics for cotton manufactures and cotton small wares for 1900, and shows the percentage that each is of the total. Table 5 shows that the totals for capital, wages, cost of materials, and value of products for cotton small wares represented about 2 per cent of the totals for the entire cotton manufactures, and for the number of establishments about 8 per cent. At the census of 1890 the average capital for the 905 establishments, which included both cotton goods and cotton small wares, was $391,182. In 1900 for the 1,055 establishments of both classes the average capital was $442,882; for the 973 establishments reported as cotton goods only it was $473,-631 ; and for the 82 classi- fied as cotton small wares it was $78,017. Table 5.— COMBINED SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS AND COTTON SMALL WARES: 1900, WITH PERCENTAGE THAT EACH ITEM IS OF TOTAL. Number of establish- ments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over . .' Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used . Value of products Active spindles, num- ber Looms, number Cotton consumed, bales Cotton consumed, pounds Total. 1,055 $467, 240, 157 4,902 $7, 350, 199 302,861 $86, 689, 752 135, 721 $47, 594, 881 126, 882 $33, 746, 665 40,258 $5,348,206 $22, 112, 678 $176,551,527 $339,200,320 19, 050, 952 455, 752 3, 646, 708 1,817,643,390 Cotton goods 973 $460, 842, 772 4,713 $7,123,574 297, 929 .,126,310 134, 354 , 923, 365 123, 709 $32, 917, 933 $5, 285, 012 $21, 650, 144 $173, 441, 390 $332, 806, 156 19,008,352 450, 682 3,639,495 1,811,002,512 Cotton small wares. 82 $6,397,385 189 $226, 625 4,932 $1,563,442 1,367 $671,516 3,173 $828, 732 392 $63, 194 $462,534 $3, 110, 137 $6, 394, 164 42,600 5,070 7,213 PER CENT OF TOTAL. Cotton goods. 92. 2 96.1 96.9 98.4 98.2 99. 98.6 97.5 97.5 97.9 98.2 98. 1 99. 8 99.8 Cotton small wares. 7.8 1.4 1.6 1.8 1.0 1.4 2.5 2.5 1.0 1.2 2.1 1.8 1.9 0.2 1.1 0.2 0.2 With this general explanation of the new system of classification, it will be understood that all the tables hereafter given, except Table 23, make the comparison 28 MANUFACTURES. between cotton goods alone in 1900 and cotton manu- factures generally prior to this census. It is believed that the slight difference of 2 per cent will not seriously impair their general usefulness for purposes of com- parison or may be allowed for by those who desire more exact figures. GEOGRAPHIC DISTRIBUTION OF THE INDUSTRY. The following tabular statement will bring to light the most interesting and the most important fact relat- ing to the growth of the cotton-manufacturing industry during the decade 1890-1900: SECTIONAL DISTRIBUTION OF ESTABLISHMENTS. GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. 1900 1890 1880 332 225 400 16 402 239 239 25 439 139 161 17 Total 973 905 756 The decrease in the number of establishments in the New England states is more apparent than real. It results partly from the elimination of certain mills from the classification as "cotton manufactures," already mentioned, and partly from the consolidation of estab- lishments under one management. The same reasons account fully for the decline in the number of estab- lishments in the Middle states: New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and Maryland. The manu- facture has never existed on a considerable scale in the Western states. Comparative distance and inaccessi- bility with respect to the supply of raw cotton, distance from the commercial cities which are the headquarters of the dry goods trade, and difficulty in procuring the requisite trained labor — these and other causes have hitherto rendered the West an undesirable location for cotton mills, which need for economical operation cheap transportation of raw material, cheap fuel or unfailing waterpower, and nearness to large markets. The cot- ton manufacture, moreover, is essentially gregarious, and enjoys the greatest prosperity where it is carried on by large establishments or by large groups of small mills. The growth of the industry in the South is the one great fact in its history during the past ten years. It will be seen that in 1880 there were, in that part of the country, 161 establishments only which made reports to the census; in 1890 there were only 239, an increase of 78, or 48.4 per cent; and in 1900 there were 400 separate establishments, an increase from 1890 of 161, or 67.4 per cent. A scrutiny of the returns by states shows that substantially the whole increase in the South has been in the 4 states of North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama. The number of establishments in these 4 states was 119 in 1880, 191 in 1890, and 355 in 1900. In the other states of the Southern group the number was 42 in 1880, 48 in 1890, and 45 in 1900. It would be revealing but a part of the truth to rest the statement of Southern industrial expansion upon the number of establishments; for in the decade 1880- 1890 the number of spindles in the four leading South- ern states increased almost twofold, from 422,807 to 1,195,256; and the average number of spindles to a mill increased from 3,553 to 6,258. In the decade from 1890 to 1900 the progress has been at an even greater ratio, although the basis of the calculation is larger, for the total number of spindles is 3,791,654, the numerical increase 2,596,398, the percentage of increase 217, and the average number of spindles to a mill has become 10,651. The subsequent tables in this report will give abundant evidence of the expansion of the Southern cotton industry in all directions — in capital, consump- tion of material, employment of labor, and quantity and value of product. Speaking broadly, the cotton manufacturing industry did not exist in the South before the Civil War, and it existed only on the most restricted scale before 18S0. There are now single establishments in Massachusetts which pay annually a larger sum in wages than the en- tire cost of labor in Southern cotton mills in 1880. The mills were small, equipped with antiquated ma- chinery, engaged in spinning the coarsest numbers only, and in producing from cotton grown in the neighbor- hood the stout fabrics used for clothing by the negroes. It is probably not an exaggeration to say that prior to 1880 there was not a mill south of the latitude of Washington that would be classed as an efficient mod- ern cotton factory, even according to the standard of that time. Before the Civil War the people of the South were almost exclusively engaged in agricultural pursuits. The ruling classes looked with disfavor upon manufactures and discouraged the introduction of the industrial arts save as they were necessary to meet local wants. After the war closed it was some years before the people had recovered sufficiently from the disaster to undertake manufacturing. There had been attempts in the direction of cotton spinning and weaving before 1880, but the cotton exposition in Atlanta, in 1881, gave the industry an impetus which it has never since lost. The possibilities of the region were shown when the governor of Georgia appeared at the fair dressed in a suit of clothes made of cottonade manufactured on the grounds from cotton which had been picked from the stalk on the morning of the same day, in the sight of the visitors to the fair. That the local product of cotton could be worked up into finished cloth without transportation to a distant manufacturing town, together with the fact that the region had abundance of unem- ployed labor of a class similar to that which in the early days operated the mills of Waltham, Lowell, and COTTON MANUFACTURES. 29 Manchester, brought before the people the vision of a new source of individual and public wealth to which they had previously been blind. Once the opportunity had been presented to them the chance was eagerly seized, and all who were able to do so contributed to make the new enterprise successful. The press urged it upon those who had capital to invest, hailed joyfully every manufacturing project, and made much of every successful establishment. Municipal aid was given in the shape of exemption from taxation for a term of years. The railroads favored the scheme by arranging their freight schedules so as to encourage Southern manufacturers. The factories first established under the new regime showed large profits, and thus attracted more capital to the new industry. The advantages of the Southern country for cotton manu- facturing began to attract attention in the North; and in many cases corporations already established increased their capital and built new mills in the South Atlantic states. The earliest Southern enterprises were not in all cases begun as first-class establishments. Some of them were equipped with discarded machinery from Northern mills. But the manufacturers quickly learned the les- son that there is no industiy in which profits are more directly proportioned to the perfection and speed of the machinery than in the spinning and weaving of cotton; and the old spindles and looms were speedily replaced with others of the newest pattern. A great proportion of the mills built and started within the past decade have been thoroughly up to date in all respects. In fact some improvements in mill construction are to be found in that section, which are not yet introduced in the manufacturing regions of the North. The first fac- tory operated wholly by electricity, without shafting or belts, was located in the South, and until near the time of the writing of this report it was the only fac- tory so equipped. By the use of electrical power it is possible to place the mill on high ground at a suitable distance from mill race and water wheel, and thus to secure accessibility, the health of operatives, and other benefits which could not be enjoyed when it was neces- sary to put the foundations of the mill below the foot of the waterfall. The growth of the manufacturing industry in the South has been fairly continuous during the past ten years. How large it has been the figures show. For the most part the product of the region has been coarse or medium goods, as is usually the case in the early stages of the industry. But not a few mills have been constructed to make yarns of the higher medium num • bers and cloth which approaches the lower limit of those classed as fine. A considerable part of the product of the region is exported. The industry is now important enough in the 4 states of North Carolina, South Caro- lina, Georgia, and Alabama to consume nearly one-third of the ci'op of cotton grown in those states; and both North Carolina and South Carolina spin more than half the cotton grown within their limits. The growth of the industry in the South has been remarkably steady. As is commonly the case with enterprises of this nature, it has been attended with not a little public excitement; more mills have been pro- jected than have been built; some have been erected which their projectors would not have erected had they studied the matter carefully before entering upon the experiment. But the failures have been few, and upon the whole the return upon investment in Southern cot- ton mills has greatly exceeded that upon factories in the North. The fact that after a phenomenal growth dur- ing more than twenty years the expansion of old mills and the erection of new ones are still going on in the South is ample proof of the success of the enterprise. The following table, made up from files of the New York Commercial and Financial Chronicle, presents a view of the annual increase in the number of spindles in the states south of the District of Columbia during the past twenty years. The Chronicle is recognized as among the best authorities upon the cotton crop and its distribution. Its statements for the first few } r ears of the period covered were admittedly estimates; but from the year 1888 they are based upon actual returns from the Southern mills made directly to the Chronicle. For the census years, the census figures are substituted. SPINDLES IN SOUTHERN MILLS, AND THEIR CONSUMP- TION OF COTTON. YEARS. Number of spindles. Bales of cotton used. 1880 81 610, 000 680,000 860, 000 1, 100, 000 1, 150, 000 1,200,000 1, 225, 000 1,177,901 1,344,676 1,554,000 1,756,047 ' 1,938,524 2,082,197 2,167,242 2, 379, 281 2,770,284 3, 197, 545 3, 574, 754 3,832,201 4, 298, 188 205, 000 238,000 331,000 1883 84 334,000 266, 000 340,000 1886-87 397, 929 443, 373 486, 603 1889-90 526, 856 1890-91 605,916 681, 471 733,701 723, 329 853, 352 915, 810 1,024,482 1, 227, 939 1,400,026 1,477,775 Although there has been a surprising growth of the industry in the Southern states, yet it still remains true, as it has been true ever since Samuel Slater set in motion the first spindles operated by power in this country at Pawtucket, R. I., in 1791, that the larg- est and densest concentration of cotton manufacturing in the United States is in southern New England. A list is printed in the American State Papers 1 of the cot- ton mills within 30 miles of the town of Providence, 1 Finance, Vol. III. 30 MANUFACTURES. R. I., in November, 1809. The mills are enumerated in the chronological order of their establishment, begin- ning with the Pawtucket mill of Almy, Brown & Slater. Twenty-seven mills are mentioned as having in the aggregate 20,406 spindles " now in operation," but as having, including these, 34,900 spindles " which might be employed." There were also 14 other mills, all established in 1809, with 23,600 spindles, which were evidently not yet in operation. One mill, a Titan for those times, contained 10,000 spindles. The average of the 41 factories, counting their greatest capacity, was less than 1,500 spindles, and all combined they did not greatly exceed the average of one Fall River mill of the present time; yet they constituted the greatest concen- tration of the industry as it existed ninety years before the Twelfth Census was taken. In the year 1900 there were, within the same area, 7,209,235 spindles, as is shown by the following table: Table 6.— NUMBER OF SPINDLES IN COTTON MILLS WITHIN 30 MILES OF PROVIDENCE, R. I. LOCATION OF ESTABLISHMENTS. Total Brooklyn, Windham county, Conn Killingly, Windham county, Conn Plainfleld, Windham county, Conn Putnam, Windham county, Conn Thompson, Windham county, Conn Woodstock, Windham county, Conn — Voluntown, New London county, Conn Bristol county, Mass Blackstone Worcester county, Mass — Grafton, Worcester county, Mass Northbridge, Worcester county, Mass... Oxford, Worcester county, Mass Sutton, Worcester county, Mass Uxbridge, Worcester county, Mass Webster, Worcester county, Mass Bristol county, E.I Hopkinton, Washington county, E. I . . . Kent county, R. 1 Newport county, E. I Providence county, E. I Producing spindles (not including twisting, or doubling spindles). 7,209,235 59, 864 85, 808 74, 736 106, 800 111, 688 1,200 16, 500 4, 561, 129 43, 548 62, 344 89, 264 5,600 54,496 11,172 81,000 102, 104 20, 194 472, 406 43,008 1,206,374 In round numbers one-third of all the spindles in the United States are in the factories within that small area. It was remarked in the report on the Eleventh Census that 29.61 per cent of all the cotton spindles were oper- ated in the two adjoining counties of Bristol, Mass., and Providence, R. 1. The percentage has been maintained. It is now 30.3, and it greatly exceeds that of any other two counties. Indeed, the spindles of Providence county, the smaller of the two, outnumbered those of any Southern state except South Carolina. But the percentage of New England as a whole has suffered a considerable decline. In 1870 these six states had 77 per cent of all the spindles; in 1880 they had 81 per cent; in 1890 there was a decline to 76 per cent; and the per- centage in 1900 was but 67.6. CAPITAL. Table 7 is a comparative summary, by geographic divisions, of the capital invested in the cotton manu- facture in 1900, compared with 1890, with percentages of increase for the decade. Table 7 shows that the total capital employed has increased 30. 2 per cent. Taking the country as a whole, there is a small decrease in the reported value of the land. This is explained by the fact that in a great number of cases the land upon which factories are placed has but a nominal value; indeed, it had scarcely any value before the factories were erected and would be wholly unsalable if the buildings were removed. In these circumstances the officers making returns can only estimate the value, and estimates made at intervals of ten years may be expected to vary. There appears to have been an absolute decrease in the value of land in New England attached to cotton-manufacturing establish- ments; and the increase in land value in Southern states is 30.8 per cent, although the whole value of the plant has increased 131.4 per cent. Table 7.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS, CAPITAL, BY GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS, WITH PERCENT- AGES OF INCREASE: 1890 AND 1900. GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. United States Per cent of increase . New England states Per cent of increase . Middle states Per cent of increase . Southern states Per cent of increase . Western states Per cent of increase. 1900 1890 1900 1S91I 1900 1VJI.I 1900 1X90 1900 1890 Total. $460, 842, 772 354,020,843 30.2 272, 668, 914 243, 153, 249 12.1 59, 078, 820 51, 676, 249 14.3 124, 532, 864 53, 827, 303 131.4 4, 562, 174 5, 364, 042 H4.9 Land. 822, 546, 549 23, 225, 097 '2.9 14, 820, 308 17, 074, 774 U3.2 3, 277, 033 2, 580, 935 27.0 4, 250, 540 3, 248, 968 198, 668 320,420 138.0 Buildings. 891, 621, 757 69, 742, 664 31.4 55, 523, S93 47,871,383 16.8 11, 327, 917 10, 124, 364 11.9 23,741,094 10, 690, 952 124.2 1,029,153 1, 155, 965 Ul.O Machinery, tools, and implements. 8181,009,280 138, 025, 806 31.1 99,093,175 91, 666, 375 8.1 20, 779, 919 20, 306, 650 2.8 59, 179, 798 24, 079, 920 145.8 1,956,388 1,972,961 10.8 Cash and sundries. 8165,665,186 123,027,276 34.7 103,231,838 86, 540, 717 19.3 23, 693, 951 18,664,400 26.9 37,361,432 15, 907, 463 134.9 1, 377, 965 1, 914, 696 128.0 i Decrease. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 31 In view of the current discussion as to the capitaliza- tion of corporations it becomes interesting to note that the objections to the practice of overcapitalization can not justly be urged against cotton-manufacturing estab- lishments. The form of ownership of such establish- ments is to a remarkable degree the corporate. Of the 973 separate establishments here reported, 708 are classed as corporations, 142 are individual, and 123 are partnerships or firms. Even this does not show the actual situation definitely, since 56 of the individual and 68 of the partnership establishments in Pennsyl- vania, and most of them in the city of Philadelphia, are weaving factories only, and individually of moderate importance. Outside of Pennsylvania there are 678 corporations, 86 individual, and 55 partnership estab- lishments. With reference to the two latter classes, there can, of course, be no question of overcapitaliza- tion. The capital they report is simply that employed in their business. But the incorporated companies have a share capital to an amount specified in their respective charters. Table 8 shows, by geographic di- visions, the capital for corporations as reported at the census of 1900, compared with the nominal capital of corporations as represented by their capital stock. Table 8.— COMPARISON OF CAPITAL OF CORPORATIONS, AS REPORTED AT CENSUS, WITH CAPITAL STOCK, BY STATES AND GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS: 1900. United States. New England states Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts . . Rhode Island . . Connecticut Middle states New York New Jersey Pennsylvania . . Maryland Southern states Virginia North Carolina . South Carolina . Georgia Kentucky Tennessee Alabama Mississippi Arkansas Louisiana Texas Western states Ohio Indiana Illinois Wisconsin Missouri Nebraska Colorado California Capital as reported at census. Capital stock. 8385,863,827 56, 692 1, 532, 586 831, 047 455, 235 165, 500 190, 819 647,805 371,000 $204, 157, 914 238,502,315 128,703,500 20, 974, 669 11, 630, 000 28, 713, 786 17,725,000 1, 696, 331 1,050,000 135,873,779 71, 088, 500 30,466,097 15,367,000 20,777,653 11,843,000 33,521,797 16,205,000 12,455,548 5, 046, 000 12, 503, 262 5,145,000 5, 314, 968 2, 734, 000 3,248,019 2,280,000 109,589,031 57,101,352 4, 338, 206 2, 886, 700 25,840,465 14,364,500 36,275,727 17,835,200 21,826,464 10,874,952 1,867,605 1, 325, 000 3, 105, 095 1,634,000 10, 609, 695 5,300,000 2,199,249 1,231,000 249, 828 200, 000 1.716,688 850, 000 1,660,109 600, 000 4,250,684 3, 148, 062 25, 000 800, 000 500, 000 376, 000 248, 062 150, 000 250, 000 800, 000 Note. — In the foregoing table the nominal capital stock reported of the com- panies now united in the three industrial combinations is that of the separate companies before the amalgamation. The present capital stock is larger by $15,200,000, and the total capital stock for the whole country is $219,357,914. The addition can not conveniently be shown by states, inasmuch as the plants of two of the three combinations are located in several states. Moreover, the three industrial combinations have issued an aggregate amount of $26,500,000 bonds. It appears from Table 8 that not only in the United States as a whole, and in each of the geographical divisions, but in every individual state, except Missouri and California, the actual invested capital exceeds the par value of the share capital. Undoubtedly a consid- erable amount, many millions of dollars in the aggre- gate, of the capital reported to the census represents borrowed money; but after making the largest reason- able allowance for this item there must remain an excess of at least 25 per cent of assets over the nominal value of the share capital. Very few cotton-manufac- turing establishments have a bonded debt. In this connection it may be remarked that the system of industrial combination, commonly known as the "trust," has not seriously invaded the cotton-manufac- turing industry. There were in 1900 only three such combinations : The New England Cotton Yarn Company, which produces but a small fraction of the yarns made for sale; the Mount Vernon- Woodberry Cotton Duck Company, which produces a considerable part of the sail duck made in the country; and the American Thread Company, which has combined several of the large establishments which produce sewing thread. The total value of the plants and miscellaneous items of capital of all the establishments controlled by these three industrial combinations is $31,077,609. Their combined capital stock is $33,000,000, and the total of their bonded debt is $26,500,000. EMPLOYEES AND WAGES. In 1900 the average number of employees in the cot- ton industry (excluding cotton small wares), including officers and clerks, was 302,642, an increase of 81,057, or 36.54 per cent over the total for cotton goods and cotton small wares in 1890. Of this increase more than 60,000, or three-fourths of the whole, were in the South- ern states. The figures which show the number and compensation of officers, clerks, and superintendents re- quire no discussion. They are useful merely for the com- pletion of the statistics and to bring out in its true light the magnitude of the industry. The real interest lies in the facts regarding those who are more strictly classified as wage-earners, the operatives in the mills. The importance of the figures relating to them is enhanced by the circumstance that the cotton-manufacturing industry is typical of the factory sj^stem in its highest form and on the largest scale. There is scarcely another industry that approaches it in the numbers of hands employed within mills; and the numbers of men and women employed are more nearly equal than is the case with any other industry of a magnitude to be compared with this. Table 9 shows the number of wage-earners, men, women, and children, by geographical divisions, at the censuses of 1880, 1890, and 1900; and Table 11 shows the percentages of men, women, and children of total wage-earners, by geographic divisions, for 1880, 1890. and 1900. 32 MANUFACTURES. Table 9.— COTTON GOODS, WAGE-EARNERS, AVERAGE NUMBER OF MEN, GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS: 1880 TO 1900. WOMEN, AND CHILDREN, BY SEOGUAPHIC DIVISIONS. TOTAL. MEN, 16 YEARS AND OVER. WOMEN, 16 YEAR9 AND OVER. CHILDREN, UNDER 16 YEARS. 19001 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 297, 929 218, 876 172,544 134, 354 88,837 59, 685 123, 709 106, 607 84,539 39, 866 23, 432 28,320 162, 294 34,843 97,494 3,298 147, 359 31,841 36,415 3, 261 125, 779 28, 118 16,317 2,330 78, 217 14,473 40,528 1,136 63, 749 11, 580 12,517 991 45, 521 8,919 4,633 612 73, 258 16, 056 32, 528 1,867 73, 445 16, 240 15, 083 1,839 62,554 13, 185 7,587 1,213 10, 819 4,314 24,438 295 10, 165 4,021 8,815 431 17,704 6,014 4,097 505 1 Does not include cotton small wares in 1900. Table lO.— COTTON GOODS, WAGE-EARNERS, PERCENT- AGE OF MEN, WOMEN, AND CHILDREN, BY GEO- GRAPHIC DIVISIONS: 1880 TO 1900. MEN. WOMEN. CHILDREN. CEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. Per cent of all wage-earners. Per cent of all wage-earners. Per cent of all wage-earners. 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 United States . . . 45.1 40.6 34.6 41.5 48.7 49.0 13.4 10.7 16.4 New England states . . 48.2 41.5 41.6 34.4 43.3 36.4 34.4 30.4 36.2 31.7 28.4 26.3 45.1 46.1 33.4 56.6 49.8 51.0 41.4 56.4 49.7 46.9 46.5 52.0 6.7 12.4 25.0 9.0 6.9 12.6 24.2 13.2 14.1 21.4 Southern states 25.1 21.7 Tables 9 and 10 show that of the men, women, and children employed, first, the actual numbers of each class have increased during the past ten years, and, sec- ond, the number of men has increased much more rapidly than the number either of women or of children. In the whole country there has been a numerical increase from 1890 to 1900 of 45,517 men, of 17,102 women, and of 16,434 children. There was an increase in the number of men in every section; a very slight decrease in the number of women in every division except the Southern states, and an increase in the num- ber of children in the South, whereas in the rest of the country the number was nearly stationary. Since, in an expanding industry, the numbers of all classes ought to increase, a better medium for the sociological study of the condition of affairs is afforded by the second table, from which it appears that there is now for the first time a preponderance of the proportion of men em- ployed, over the women. The proportion of men for the whole country increased from 40.6 per cent in 1890 to 45.1 per cent in 1900; the proportion of women declined from 48.7 per cent in 1890 to 41.5 per cent in 1900; the proportion of children advanced from 10.7 per cent to 13.4 per cent. The returns for the Tenth Census afford the means of discovering that with a slight modification the readjust- ment of labor conditions has been going on for at least twenty years. Between 1880 and 1890 there was an increase of 6 men in every group of 100 mill opera- tives. The number of women in the group remained unchanged, owing to the partial discontinuance of the practice of employing children in all parts of the coun- try except the South. In the mills of New England, which then formed a larger fraction of the total than they do now, the number of children in mills was reduced from 14 in every 100 to 7. Between 1890 and 1900 occurred the marvelous expansion of the industry in the South, with the usual result of such an event, a great demand for labor and the employment of whole families. The proportion of children was slightly in- creased there, by 1 in 100, but the proportion of women diminished by 8, and that of men increased by 7, in each 100. In New England the proportion of men increased 5, that of women decreased 5, in each 100, and the pro- / portion of children remained stationary. The important fact resulting from an examination of all these proportions is that the tendency is more and more to the employment of men, which, looking at the matter from the social point of view, is highly desir- able, in that it diminishes the use of the labor of women in factory service, and doubly desirable in discontinu- ing the employment of child labor. In this last respect reform has not yet reached the Southern mills, where the supply of labor is not equal to the demand. But the evils of the system of employing children are fully recognized, an agitation for its abandonment is in prog- ress, and no doubt the coming decade will see a sub- stantial diminution of it. The explanation of the generally increased employ- ment of men is obvious. The chief reasons are two: First, that the operation of some of the modern ma- chines requires the care of men, because it is beyond the physical and nervous capacity of women. For ex- ample, the improved high-speed and automatic looms, many of which are put under the charge of one weaver, can be operated most efficiently by men. Moreover, there has undoubtedly been a decrease in the number of women employed as mule spinners. The second cause of the change in the relative proportion of men and women, which, for reasons presently to be stated, is largely influential in the North, is itself a result of a generally improved condition of labor. Whereas for- merly it was the custom for an entire family, or, at least, several of its members, to be employed in a mill, the father now earns enough to relieve the mother and some of the children of the necessity of going into the factory; or, perhaps, the mother and- the elder daugh- ters find other employment in the shops and offices COTTON MANUFACTURES. 33 which manufacturing industry attracts to a community. It is not suggested that the change is one universally to be observed. Possibly the tendency is so slight that the fact of such a change going on can be discovered only when the statistics are studied in a large way. Nevertheless, the cases are sufficiently numerous to justify the assignment of this as one cause of the gradual change that is taking place in the proportion of men and women in the industry as a whole. The change has not yet perceptibly affected the South. There the labor conditions are different. The industry is growing at a wonderful rate. The help employed is chiefly local. Whole families in that region enter the factories, because in no other way can the demand for labor be satisfied. Consequently the changes in the pro- portion of men, women, and children employed are largely fortuitous. Roughly speaking, there were three times as many men, twice as many women, and nearly three times as many children employed in Southern mills in 1900 as there were in 1890. The numerical increase was 28,011 men, 17,445 women, and 15,623 children. Manufacturers took whom they could get for operatives in the new mills. The employment of chil- dren was not a matter of choice but of necessity, and, economically, is a losing rather than a profitable system; for more than the saving in the dollars and cents of their wages is lost when the quantity and quality of their work are considered. SKILLED OPERATIVES. It was intended to make a complete canvass of the spinners and weavers employed in the* cotton mills of the country, classified as men, women, and children. Owing to a defect in the form of the inquiry, which was not discovered in season to make a correction, there is reason to believe that some of the numbers were incorrectly returned, and the full table is not presented. Some facts which are trustworthy were, nevertheless, obtained. It was ascertained that during the census year there were between 5,000 and 6,000 persons employed as mule spinners, of whom about 2,250 were employed in Massachusetts mills, 750 in Rhode Island, 600 in New York, and 350 in Connecticut. About nine-tenths of the mule spinners were men. On the other hand, of about 43,000 frame spinners, only about one-sixth were men, and five-sixths were women and children. The report of the number of weavers is entitled to more confidence than that of spinners, but it is not suf- ficiently accurate to be presented in detail. The num- ber of weavers returned was 91,515, of whom 41,776 were men, 47,941 were women, and 1,798 were children. There are no earlier returns with which to compare these numbers. But it is well known to those conver- sant with the industry that only a few years ago the weaving of cotton goods was regarded as peculiarly the mon text 3 work of women. The introduction of improved and fast looms has led more and more to the employment of men as weavers. The tendency is so marked that the next enumeration should show the men in a majority. WAGES. It is a matter of general experience that wages in cotton mills were higher in 1900 than they were in 1890. It is almost impossible to obtain a true average by ap- plying the rules of arithmetic to magnitudes of such diverse nature as those which represent the numbers of operatives employed and the gross amount paid to them in wages. Moreover the method of ascertaining the average number of persons employed, which was used at the census of 1900, was quite different from that adopted in 1890, and the figures for 1890 are exclusively those for skilled labor. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. Table 11 is a comparative summary of miscellaneous expenses, showing the per cent that each item is of the totals for 1890 and 1900. Table 11.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS, MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES, 1 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER CENT WHICH EACH ITEM FORMS OF TOTAL. 1900 1890 Amount. Per cent of total. Amount. Per cent of total. Total 820, 057, 190 100.0 816,716,524 100.0 691, 075 3,521,606 15, 844, 509 3.4 17.6 79.0 488,735 2, 689, 632 13,538,157 2 9 Taxes, not including internal 16.1 Rent of offices, interest, insur- ance, and all sundry ex- penses not hitherto included . 81.0 i Exclusive of contract work. Table 11 shows that the amount paid for rent of works was exceedingly small when the magnitude of the indus- try is considered. As against the total value of land and buildings owned in 1900, of $114,168,306, and in 1890, of $92,967,761, there was paid for rent of works by manufacturers who did not own all the plant used, in 1900 the sum of $691,075, and in 1890 the sum of $488,735. Estimating the average rent at 6 per cent, the value of the land and buildings rented would have been $11,517,917 in 1900, and $8,145,583 in 1890, or about one-tenth of the real estate owned at the time of each census. MATERIALS USED. The consumption of raw cotton of all kinds, domestic and foreign, in all the textile mills of the country dur- ing the census year was 3,872,165 bales, having an 34 MANUFACTURES. aggregate weight of 1,923,704,600 pounds. The use of cotton by the several textile industries was as follows: Bales. Pounds. 3, 639, 495 99, 518 80, 725 12, 079 7,213 3,813 26, 540 2,782 1,814,002,512 49,451,301 In hosiery and knit goods mills In worsted mills 5, 276, 751 3,640,878 1, 943, 942 13, 022, 755 1,398,502 In cotton small wares mills In cordage and twine mills In felt and shoddy mills Total 3, 872, 165 1, 923, 704, 600 - At the Twelfth Census no inquiry was made which reveals the variety of cotton used, save in respect to the cotton manufacturing industry proper, cotton small wares, and cordage and twine. It may nevertheless be assumed without risk of serious error that in establish- ments dealing with the wool fiber all the cotton used was the ordinary domestic staple. A certain amount of the cotton consumed in the few hosiery mills which reported spindles was Egyptian, and a small quantity of sea-island cotton was reported by one establishment, which is classified as "cordage and twine," as having been used in the manufacture of sewing thread. Disre- garding these exceptions we may make the following classification of the cotton consumed: Bales. Pounds. 47. 207 3,748,750 76. 208 18, 442, 634 1,849,417,034 55, 844, 932 Total 3, 872, 165 1, 923, 704, 600 The figuies in the two preceding tables are those which are to be compared with the commercial and offi- cial statistics, in which no discrimination is made be- tween the several classes of factories in which the cotton is consumed. Taking first the greatest item, that of ordinary domestic cotton, the report of the New York Commercial and Financial Chronicle — which is generally accepted by manufacturers as the most thorough and accurate — accounts for the taking of 3,792,618 bales, by manufacturers North and South during the crop year 1899-1900. The corresponding census number is 3,748,750 bales. Inasmuch as the commercial returns are for a year beginning September 1, 1899, whereas those of the census are for the year beginning June 1, 1899, and in the case of not a few mills some months earlier, the divergence of the two reports is small and easily to be accepted; and the close approximation of the two, especially when it is remembered that there is a not inconsiderable amount of cotton which is used for purposes other than spinning, is a confirmation of the accuracy of both. Against the census return of 47,207 bales of sea-island cotton used in the mills herein re- ported, the Chronicle reports 49,543 bales of that variety of cotton left for consumption in the United States after deducting the amount exported from the total crop. This is a still closer correspondence between the two sets of figures. The difference between them, is no greater than may easily be explained upon the grounds already mentioned. The imports of foreign cotton during the fiscal year ended June 30, 1900, amounted to 67,398,521 pounds, of which 1,381,463 pounds was reexported. The importation during the calendar year 1899, with which the consumption dur- ing the census year corresponded more nearly, was 62,014,809 pounds, and the net importation was 61,296,346 pounds, which exceeded by about 10 per cent the amount reported in the preceding table. It has already been explained that a certain amount— the exact quantity can not be stated — is masked in the returns of cotton-hosiery mills which were not asked to specify the kind of cotton used. Relative to these figures, it should be borne in mind that, whereas, the quantities reported in commercial returns are the gross purchases of material by manufacturers, the census figures are those of cotton which was actually manu- factured and which entered into the merchandise reported under the head of products. In 1900 the consumption of cotton in cotton mills proper was as follows: Bales. Pounds. 47. 207 3, 516, 080 76. 208 18, 442, 634 1,739,714,946. 65,844,932 Total 3, 639, 495 1,814,002,512 "other domestic" cotton. The consumption of domestic cotton, other than sea island, in the cotton mills of the country during the census year was 3,516,080 bales, as compared with 2,231,385 bales reported at the census of 1890, an in- crease of 58 per cent. The average weight of bales was 494.8 pounds. By geographic divisions the consump- tion of cotton by bales and pounds, and the average weight of bales, was as follows: GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. New England states Middle states Southern states Western states Total Bales. 1,719,622 272, 947 1,477,775 45, 736 3,516,080 Pounds. Average weight of bales. 874,011,257 I 135,004,971 I 707,159,521 23,539,197 508.3 494.& 478.5 514.7 1,739,714,946 I 494.8- The variation shown in the weight of bales between, the Northern and the Southern sections of the cotton- spinning industry is in strict accordance with experi- ence. The bales made up from the crop of the Missis- sippi valley and of Texas are heavier than those of the Atlantic coast states. Spinners in the Carolinas and in Georgia, therefore, relying largely upon the local sup- ply, make use of lighter bales than manufacturers in COTTON MANUFACTURES. 35 the Eastern states, who draw largely upon trie South- west for their raw material. The average weight of bales of the entire cotton crop of the United States during the crop year ending August 31, 1900, was, according to the commercial reports, 503.69 pounds; but the average weight of bales in the Carolinas and Georgia, from which states the bulk of the cotton con- sumed in the South was derived, was but 489.91 pounds; whereas, the bales of Louisiana and Texas averaged a weight of 514.8 pounds. Table 12 presents the facts relating to the cotton crop of the United States for twenty-one years, 1880 to 1900, inclusive, as reported by the United States Treasury Department. Table 12.— QUANTITIES OF RAW COTTON PRODUCED, IMPORTED, EXPORTED, AND RETAINED FOR CONSUMPTION, 1880 TO 1900. l YEAR ENDING JUNE 30— 1880 1881 1882 1883 18X1 1885 1880 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1894 1895 1896 1897 1898 1899 1900 PRODUCTION. Annual crop. 2 Crop in pounds gross weight. Bales. 5,761,252 6, 605, 750 5,456,048 6, 949, 756 5,713,200 5, 706, 165 6, 576, 691 6, 505, 087 7,046,833 6,938,290 7,311,322 8,652,597 9,035,379 6,700,365 7,549,817 9,901,251 7, 157, 346 8,757,964 11, 199, 994 11, 274, 840 9,436,416 Pounds. 2, 771, 797, 166 3,199,822,682 2, 588, 240, 050 3,405,070,410 2,757,544,422 2, 742, 966, 011 3, 182, 305, 659 3,157,378,443 3, 439, 172, 391 3,439,934,799 3, 627, 366, 183 4,316,043,982 4,506,575,984 3,352,658,468 3,769,381,478 5,036,964,409 3, 592, 416, 851 4,397,177,704 5, 677, 259, 827 5,794,767,917 4,757,062,942 Exports of do- mestic. Pounds. 1,822,061,114 2, 191, 928, 772 1, 739, 975, 961 2, 288, 075, 062 1, 862, 572, 530 1,891,659,472 2,058,037,444 2,169,457,330 2, 264, 120, 826 2, 384, 816, 669 2,471,799,863 2,907,358,795 2, 935, 219, 811 2, 212, 115, 126 2, 683, 282, 325 3, 517, 533, 109 2, 335, 226, 385 3, 103, 754, 949 3, 850, 264, 295 3,773,410,293 3, 100, 583, 188 Domestic re- tained for consumption. Pounds. 949,736,042 1,007,893,910 848, 264, 089 1,116,996,348 894, 971, 892 851,306,539 1, 124, 268, 215 987,921,113 1,175,051,565 1,055,118,130 1, 155, 566, 330 1,408,685,187 1,571,356,173 1,140,543,332 1,086,099,153 1, 519, 431, 300 1,257,190,466 1, 293, 422, 755 1, 826, 995, 532 2, 021, 357, 624 1,656,479,754 Imports. Pounds. 3,547,792 4, 449, 866 4, 339, 952 4,081,945 7,019,492 5, 115, 680 5, 072, 334 3, 924, 531 5,497,592 7, 973, 039 8, 606, 049 20,908,817 28, 663, 769 43, 367, 952 27, 705, 949 49, 332, 022 55. 350. 520 51, 898, 926 52, 660, 363 50, 158, 158 67. 398. 521 Exports of foreign. Pounds. 234, 729 1,240,576 1, 843, 490 3, 238, 930 1, 353, 936 1,609,260 1,276,961 716, 371 203, 972 187, 959 248, 104 447, 794 132, 777 360, 832 1,029,936 771,614 1, 188, 356 1, 188, 523 499,684 293, 988 1,381,463 Foreign retained for consump- tion. Pounds. 3,313,063 3, 209, 290 2, 496, 462 843,015 5, 665, 556 3, 506, 420 3, 795, 373 3, 208, 160 5, 293, 620 7, 785, 080 8, 357, 945 20,461,023 28,530,992 43,007,120 26,676,013 48,560,408 54, 162, 164 50,710,403 52,160,679 49, 864, 170 66,017,058 Total consump' tion, domestic and foreign. Pounds. 953, 049, 105 1,011,103,200 850, 760, 551 1,117,838,363 900,637,448 854, 812, 959 1, 128, 063, 588 991, 129, 273 1, 180, 345, 185 1,062,903,210 1, 163, 924, 275 1, 429, 146, 210 1, 599, 887, 16f 1, 183, 550, 452 1, 112, 775, 166 1, 567, 991, 708 1,311,352,630 1, 344, 133, 158 1,879,156,211 2,071,221,794 1,722,496,812 Per cent of domes- tic prod- uct exported. Per cent. 65.73 68.47 67.23 67.20 67.52 68.96 64.68 68.70 65.83 69.33 68.15 67.36 65.13 65.99 71.19 69.83 65.00 70.59 67.82 65.12 65.18 i Statistical abstract of the United States. U. S. Treasury Department, 1900. 2 The "annual crop " represents the commercial movement for the years ending August 31, and was furnished by the New York Shipping and Commercial List, the New York Commercial and Financial Chronicle, and the New Orleans Cotton Exchange. Inasmuch as a very large percentage of the cotton supply is 6f American origin, this statement of the crop by bales and pounds, and of its distribution, fur- nishes a measure of the annual increase of the cotton manufacturing industry in the United States, as com- pared with its increase in the rest of the world. It will be seen that the interval of twenty years made hardly any change in the percentage of the domestic products retained and of that which was exported, the difference being merely an increase of six-tenths of 1 per cent in the amount consumed at home. The ratio varies, of course, from year to year, but on the whole the table shows that the rate of increase of domestic production is equal to that of Great Britain and the continent of Europe. Table 13 exhibits the quantity, cost, and cost per pound of " other domestic " cotton consumed, by states, in 1880, 1890, and 1900. Inasmuch as the purpose of this table is to show the average cost of cotton, and not to compare quantities consumed — which fact is suf- ficiently brought out in the preceding tables — the returns for 1900 exclude the consumption in "cotton small wares " establishments, and cover those of cotton mills only, whereas for the two preceding decadal periods ' ' cotton small wares " are included. Table 13.— COTTON GOODS, QUANTITY, AND COST OF DOMESTIC COTTON, OTHER THAN SEA ISLAND, CONSUMED, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1880 TO 1900. 1900 1890 18801 STATES. Bales. Pounds. Cost. Cost per pound (cents). Bales. Pounds. Cost. Cost per pound (cents). Bales. Pounds. Cost. Cost per pound (cents). 3,516,080 1,739,714,946 $116, 108, 879 6.67 2, 231, 385 1,103,492,910 S114, 337, 802 10.36 1,570,344 750,343,981 S86, 945, 725 11.59 1,719,622 874,011,257 58,329,174 6.67 1,405,637 704, 792, 220 74, 683, 860 10.60 1,129,498 541,373,880 63, 169, 434 11.67 156,671 271,262 12, 498 1,015,305 170, 514 93, 374 79,212,256 136,805,127 6,410,674 517,088,846 86,712,235 47, 782, 119 5,400,379 9,394,529 385, 461 33,771,414 6,074,331 3,303,060 6.82 6.87 6.01 6.53 7.01 6.91 132,504 214, 034 8,954 765, 773 186, 558 97, 814 65, 717, 252 107, 319, 124 4, 647, 889 383, 539, 221 94, 555, 788 49,012,946 7,053,168 11, 203, 742 498, 348 40,206,887 10,446,155 5, 275, 560 10.73 10.44 10.72 10.48 11.05 10.76 112, 381 157, 673 7,404 574, 857 167, 480 109, 703 54,185,061 76, 386, 499 3, 562, 088 273,718,889 81,137,172 52, 384, 171 6,234,901 8, 629, 063 458. 607 31, 107, 154 10, 457, 770 6, 281, 939 11 51 11 30 12 87 Connecticut 11.99 1 Includes sea-Island, Egyptian, and other foreign. 36 MANUFACTURES. Table 13.— COTTON GOODS, QUANTITY, AND COST OF DOMESTIC COTTON, OTHER THAN SEA ISLAND, CONSUMED, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1880 TO 1900— Continued. Middle states . New York New Jersey . . . Pennsylvania . Delaware Maryland Southern states . Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Kentucky Tennessee Alabama Mississippi Texas All other Southern states 2 Western states . Ohio Indiana Illinois Wisconsin All other Western states 3 . 1900 Bales. 272, 947 99,064 15, 872 74, 382 2,675 80, 954 38, 118 404, 148 485, 024 303, 836 23, 982 30,234 134, 371 20, 962 18,045 19, 055 45, 736 19,884 4,565 21,287 Pounds. 135, 004, 971 50, 464, 770 8, 183, 469 35, 083, 214 1,371,563 39, 901, 955 707,159,521 17, 832, 465 189. 984. 759 229. 899. 760 145, 470, 324 11,971,815 15, 028, 584 67, 987, 299 10, 363, 458 9,304,434 9, 316, 623 23, 539, 197 2,316,727 10, 938, 856 Cost. 99, 327, 774 3, 513, 661 641,858 2, 521, 768 106, 358 2, 644, 129 46, 988, 926 1, 154, 215 13, 604, 720 14, 909, 520 9,665,464 770, 363 982, 146 4, 206, 721 623, 576 566, 617 505, 684 1, 463, 005 608, 822 145, 773 708,410 Cost per pound (cents) $6.91 6.96 6.62 7.19 7.75 6.63 6.64 6.47 7.16 6.49 6.64 6.43 6.54 6.19 6.02 6.09 6.29 6.48 1890 Bales. 251. 260 78,171 16, 482 92, 705 8,876 55, 026 526,856 22,731 114, 371 133, 342 145, 859 11, 980 33, 114 29, 962 17, 366 18, 131 47, 632 11, 023 16, 306 6,405 6,924 6,974 Pounds. 123, 630, 916 8, 231, 147 44, 629, 588 4, 465, 825 27,^65,667 250, 837, 646 10, 616, 206 53, 546, 289 64, 000, 600 69, 139, 410 5,751,305 15,779,360 14, 726, 454 8, 449, 834 8, 828, 188 24, 232, 128 5, 840, 078 8,240,434 3, 267, 188 3, 470, 388 3, 414, 040 112,917,244 4, 192, 105 905, 524 4, 371, 693 475, 490 2, 972, 432 24, 508, 776 1,080,773 5, 396, 974 6,242,598 6, 663, 560 554, 206 1,554,851 1,372,058 793, 600 850,156 2,227,922 383, 556 798, 178 312, 621 359, 117 374, 450 Cost per pound (cents) 810. 45 10.74 11.00 9.80 10.65 10.90 9.77 10.18 10.08 9.75 9.64 9.64 9.85 9.32 9.63 9.19 6.57 9.69 9.57 10.35 10.97 18801 Bales. 228, 729 64, 614 21, 069 83, 997 7,512 51, 537 182, 349 11, 461 27, 642 33, 624 71, 389 4,050 10,436 14, 702 6,411 246 2,388 29,768 5,323 11,558 2,261 3,173 7,453 Pounds. 109, 321, 428 813, 258, 526 31, 656, 594 9, 950, 609 40,311,809 3,236,184 24, 166, 232 84, 526, 757 5, 087, 519 11, 832, 641 15, 601, 005 33, 757, 199 1, 882, 234 4, 944, 279 7,271,791 2, 881, 853 119, 986 1,150,260 15, 119, 916 2, 606, 182 6, 364, 887 1, 099, 130 1, 541, 797 3, 607, 920 3, 981, 106 1,319,422 4, 749, 428 427, 855 2, 780, 715 8,890,408 601, 796 1, 125, 984 1, 723, 187 3, 591, 554 188, 856 508, 305 729, 202 301, 226 11,280 109, 018 1, 627, 357 258, 198 679, 911 110, 969 180, 072 398, 207 Cost per pound (cents). 812. 13 12.58 13.26 11.78 13.22 11.51 10.52 11.83 9.52 11.05 10.64 10.03 10.28 10.03 10.45 9.40 9.48 10.76 10.30 10.68 10.10 11.68 11.04 i Includes sea-island, Egyptian, and other foreign. 2 Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900 — Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1 Arkansas, 2: Louisiana, 2; Texas, 2. s Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— California, 1; Colorado, 1; Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. 1880— Illinois, 2; Michigan, 1; Minnesota, 1; Utah, 1; Wisconsin, 1. 1890— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; Texas, 1. 1880— Florida, 1; 1890 — California, 1; Iowa, 2; Missouri, 1. It will be seen from an examination of Table 13 that the average price of cotton in 1899-1900 was much below that in 1890, and that the decline was still greater when compared with 1880. Another fact which has a certain bearing upon the future of cotton manufactur- ing is that the average price in all parts of the country was fairly uniform. In 1880 the average price in states using a considerable amount of cotton varied between 9.52 cents per pound in North Carolina and 13.26 cents in New Jersey. In 1890 the variation was be- tween 9.32 cents per pound in Alabama and 11.05 cents in Rhode Island. In 1900 the variation in states using as many as 75,000 bales each was from 6.19 cents in Alabama to 7.16 cents in North Carolina. Of course no general inferences of great value can be drawn from such facts further than that the price of cotton tends, under the influence of a local demand for the local crop and the steady cheapening of transportation charges, to equalize itself over the whole country. Differences in the quality of cotton used in the industry in the several sections of the country, and the season at which cotton is bought^often a mere matter of lucky or unlucky prognostication on the part of manufacturers — these things have too much influence in establishing average prices to allow definite conclusions to be drawn from the figures. It will be interesting to note how far con- sumption is overtaking production in some of the cotton states. CEOP, 1899-1900. Virginia North Carolina. South Carolina Georgia Alabama PRODUCTION (NEW YORK CHRONICLE). 413, 170 317, 530 266, 810 1, 358, 586 202, 945 Pounds. 206, 312, 308 155, 589, 700 130, 285, 991 665,978,857 102, 006, 245 CONSUMPTION (CENSUS). 38,118 404,148 485,024 Pounds. 17,832,465 189,984,759 229, 899, 760 145, 470, 324 67, 987. 299 It appears that the crop of South Carolina needed to be supplemented by almost exactly 100,000,000 pounds, drawn from other states, to supply its spinners; that the North Carolina crop was deficient more than 34,000,000 pounds; that Alabama made use at home of two-thirds of its crop; that the great cotton-growing state of Georgia consumed more than one-fifth of its crop; and that even Virginia, which had made less progress in the industry than the states farther South, consumed more than one-twelfth of its crop. At the present rate of progress it will not be long before the entire cotton supply of the states on the Atlantic sea- board will be taken at home. More than half of it was taken during the census year here reported; for of the 1,260,000,000 pounds raised by the 5 states men- tioned, their own mills took 651,000,000 pounds. SEA-ISLAND COTTON. The amount of sea-island cotton here reported as consumed in the United States is not only larger than COTTON MANUFACTURES. 37 the amount reported at any previous census, but it is also larger than the commercial report for any previous year. The nearest approach to the current figures are those for the crop year 1896-97 when the American consumption is fixed at 40,670 bales. The New York Chronicle reports are taken for the years intervening between 1890 and 1900. AMERICAN CONSUMPTION OF SEA-ISLAND COTTON. YEARS. Bales. YEAKS. Bales. 1890 21,283 26, 651 32, 09 i 22,911 24,34. r . 34,981 1896 40, 530 1891 1897 40, 670 1892 1898 34, 140 1893 1899 38,654 1894 1900 47, 207 1895 Notwithstanding an extending useof sea-island cotton, an increase in the crop has caused a decline in the price, which at this census is but 14.8 cents per pound, as compared with 25.1 cents in 1890.. The use of this material is restricted to 5 states — Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, and New Jersey — al- though a small quantity is returned by one establish- ment in North Carolina. EGYPTIAN COTTON. The use of Egyptian cotton for the manufacture of fine fabrics, but more particularly as the material for knit underwear, has grown greatly during the last dec- ade. The amount imported into the country nearly doubled during the ten years 1881-1890, rising from 4,440,996 pounds, valued at $757,352, to 8,407,160, valued at $1,393,071. But in the ensuing ten years the importations have still further multiplied eightfold. The following statement shows by fiscal years the im- ports of foreign cotton, which was nearly all Egyptian : YEARS. Pounds. Value. 1890-91 20,908,817 28, 663, 769 43, 367, 952 27, 705, 949 49,332,022 55, 350, 520 51, 898, 926 52, 660, 363 50, 158, 158 67, 398, 521 82,825,004 3, 217, 521 4, 688, 799 3, 003, 888 4,714,375 6, 578, 212 5, 884, 262 5,019,503 5,013,146 7, 960, 945 1891-92 1892-93 .- 1893-94 1894-95 1895-96 1896-97 1897-98 1898-99 1899-1900 447,444,997 44,744,500 48, 905, 655 4,890,565 During the census year 1889-90 there was reported a use of 6,560,951 pounds of Egyptian cotton. The present returns account for a consumption of 55,844,932 pounds, which should properly be increased by an un- known amount consumed in a few hosiery establish- ments which spin a part, at least, of their own yarn. Egyptian cotton possesses some peculiarities which adapt it especially to the uses to which it is put. It is especially desirable, on account of its natural silkiness, for the process of mercerization. The engraved diagrams represent, for the United States, the cotton production, the amount exported, and the amount of Northern and Southern consumption. YARN PURCHASED. Although there has been no perceptible movement during the last ten j'ears in the direction of the English system of treating spinning and weaving as distinct industries — in the sense that both processes are not usually carried on in one factory — yet there has been a large proportionate increase in the number and impor- tance of yarn mills. At the census of 1890 a little less than one-eighth of the value of products reported con- sisted of " yarns for sale;" at this census almost exactly one-sixth of the product is so classed. Although this increase, as will presently be noted, was demanded largely for consumption in collateral industries, there was an augmented use of cotton yarn in weaving estab- lishments. The return of cotton yarn purchased for use in cotton mills pi - oper, in the census year 1899-1900, was 83,832,216 pounds, valued at $15,749,536, as com- pared with 48,779,715 pounds, valued at $10,853,536, in 1890, an increase in value of about 50 per cent. Never- theless, the situation has not changed substantially since it was noted in the report on the Eleventh Census that the establishments classed as "cotton goods," which make use of yarn not spun by themselves, are of three classes: (1 ) Those which both spin and weave, but do not produce enough yarn to supply their looms; (2) those which purchase fine yarn to be converted into sewing thread; and (3) those which weave only. It is noted elsewhere that the number of spindles in Pennsylvania has dimin- ished during the last ten years. But there are in that state, chiefly in Philadelphia and its suburbs, a great many establishments which operate looms only in the production of the highest class of fancy -woven fabrics. They are by far the largest users of the yarn here re- ported among materials consumed. During the census year the factories in Pennsylvania took 36,304,919 pounds of this yarn, valued at $6,741,518, about 43.3 per cent of all the yarn so taken by the mills of the United States. Pennsylvania, with but 1.6 per cent of the spindles operated in the United States, has 3.5 per cent of the looms. YARNS OTHER THAN COTTON. The consumption of raw fibers, other than cotton, in the cotton mills of the country is quite unimportant; but in special mills there is a large use of yarn made of such fibers. The facts relating thereto were, at the census of 1900, obtained in much greater detail than TWELFTH CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES. MANUFACTURES. ERRATA, PART III. COTTON MANUFACTURES. PAGE 36. 38 MANUFACTURES. heretofore. The following statement makes such com- parisons as are possible with the statistics published in 1890: MATERIALS. 1900 1890 Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Silk • 298, 716 208,403 1,575,403 687, 019 435, 361 87,064 21, 398 134, 595 220,507 16, 233 15, 918 103, 157 81, 158, 321 625, 658 350, 962 415, 904 176, 467 21, 946 21,436 62,838 17, 967 15, 752 19, 102 10, 221 32, 851 18, 583 17, 722 87,267 196, 874 8164, 336 83, 064 9,823 62, 514 131, 657 Spun silk Worsted Woolens Merino Camel's hair 99, 938 8,976 Mercerized cotton 224, 729 Total 3, 803, 774 2,896,57? 677, 954 509, 682 It appears from the foregoing tabular statement that the use of yarn made from fibers other than cotton has increased more than fivefold in the last ten years. Such yarns are, of course, employed for mixing with cotton. With the exception of jute, and the inconsid- erable amount reported indefinitely as " other yarn," they are all of higher cost than ordinary cotton yarn; and their use implies not an adulteration, but an improvement of the fabrics into which they enter. OTHER MATERIALS. Raw cotton and yarn account for 80 per cent of the total value of the materials used. The rest is made up of oil and starch, mill supplies, fuel, and freight. The purity of the goods manufactured in American mills is attested by the fact that no place needs to be reserved in this branch of the statistics for any articles used else- where for "loading" fabrics. A careful return was required of the quantity of starch consumed— a neces- sity in dressing warps — and it appears that it consti- tutes only 3.7 per cent of the weight of piece goods and yarn produced. PRODUCTS. Table 14 exhibits the kinds, quantity, and value of products of cotton mills in 1900, together' with such comparison with the corresponding figures for 1890 as the inquiries at the Eleventh Census render possible. Table 14.— PRODUCTS OF COTTON MILLS IN DETAIL: 1890 AND 1900. Aggregate value. Woven goods: Total Plain cloths for printing or converting— Total Not finer than No. 28 warp Finer than No. 28 warp Brown or bleached sheetings and shirtings . . . Ginghams Ticks, denims, and stripes Drills Twills and sateens Cottonades Napped fabrics Fancy woven fabrics Corduroy, cotton velvet, and plush Duck- Total Sail Other Bags and bagging Mosquito and other netting Upholstery goods — Total Tapestries (piece goods and curtains). Lace and lace curtains Chenille curtains Other, including covers Yarns for sale Sewing cotton Twine Tape and webbing Batting and wadding Waste for sale Other products of cotton . All other products 1900 Square yards. 4, 509, 750, 616 1,581, 1,056, 525, 1, 212, 278, 171, 237, 235, 26, 268, 237, 7, 613, 827 278, 952 334, 875 403, 048 392, 708 800,853 206, 549 860,518 323, 947 852, 716 841, 603 961,523 129,234,076 11, 750, 151 117, 483, 925 30, 039, 616 41,885,023 50, 334, 609 10,131,538 36, 880, 198 805, 414 2, 517, 459 Pounds. 332, 186, 012 15,741,062 11, 132, 260 ( s ) 10, 567, 700 270, 100, 756 ( 3 ) Value. $332,806,156 243, 218, 155 57, 780, 940 35, 616, 575 22, 164, 365 55, 513, 032 16, 179, 200 16, 446, 633 11, 862, 794 14, 301, 302 2, 791, 431 18,231,044 21, 066, 310 2, 682, 017 14, 263, 008 2, 216, 371 12,046,637 2,551,192 875, 868 8,670,384 4, 123, 600 3, 585, 138 257, 840 703, 806 Value. 855, 188, 663 11, 825, 218 1,475,146 328, 801 864, 016 5, 552, 234 5, 154, 170 9,199,753 1890 Square yards. 3,004,320,473 955,294,320 I 1 ) 962, 238, 062 268, 996, 715 167,121,426 2 334, 020, 091 ( 3 ) U32,524,706 127,373,179 ( 3 ) 55,192,538 1,559,436 642, 061 ( s ) 666,405 250, 970 Pounds. 166, 397, 003 13, 868, 309 8,533,730 ( 3 ) 20,470,556 141, 109, 697 ( 8 ) Value. 8267,981,724 193, 874, 275 43, 550, 174 55,193,439 20, 686, 390 16,987,546 2 23,601,239 ( 3 ) < 10, 574, 924 12,545,929 ( 3 ) 8,664,395 ( 3 ) ( s ) ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 2,070,239 354, 987 1, 225, 364 360, 706 129, 182 Value. $33, 247, 596 11, 637, 600 1,364,300 (') 2,094,232 5,679,701 ( 3 ) 20,084,120 1 No separation of print cloths was made in 1890. 1 Drills, twills, and sateens. 3 Not separately reported. 4 Cotton flannels. The total value of the products of all the mills here reported was 1332,806,156, of which $243,218,155, or 73.1 per cent, represented the value of woven goods; $55,188,663, or 16.6 per cent, the value of yarn spun to be used in other mills; $11,825,218, or 3.6 per cent, the value of sewing cotton; and $22,574,120, or 6.8 per cent, the value of miscellaneous and by-products. The proportion of these several classes of goods varies but COTTON MANUFACTURES. 39 slightly from that indicated in the census returns of 1890. There was a decline of about 1 per cent in the relative value of woven goods, an increase of about 4 per cent in the relative value of yarn for sale, and a decrease in miscellaneous products. It should, never- theless, be remarked that the more thorough classifica- tion of products at this census is responsible for an apparent decline in miscellaneous products which is not real. A large part of the ' ' all other products " reported in 1S90 should undoubtedly fall into some of the newly specified classes of woven goods. In respect to the corresponding item in the returns of the present census, a still more detailed classification would have removed from "all other products" a large quantity and value of toweling and other woven products which are not properly classified as piece goods. An inspection of the table brings out the fact which is known to all persons acquainted with the trade in cotton goods, namely, that the demand for coarse and medium goods is many times that for fine fabrics. The largest single item is that of sheetings and shirtings, 1,212,403,048 square yards, the whole of which is made from coarse or medium yarns; and the next in point of magnitude is the 1,056,278,952 square yards of print cloths, not finer than No. 28 warp. Most of the other classes of goods are wholly or mostly woven from medium or coarse yarns. The exceptions are the finer- print cloths, 525,334,875 yards (which is only one-ninth of the gross yardage of woven goods), a certain portion of the fancy woven fabrics, a part of the twills and sateens, and a small part of the ginghams. The fact that there is a great demand for coarse and medium goods and a limited market for fine goods is pertinent to the suggestion that manufacturers who are unable to com- pete successfully in the production of standard plain cloths can find their salvation in turning to the spinning of fine yarns and the weaving of fine fabrics. In comparing the quantities and values of goods in 1890 and in 1900 it will be seen that, taking both classes of print cloths, there was an increase in quan- tity of more than one-half, and an increase in value of little more than one-third. There was an increase in the quantity of standard sheetings and shirtings of rather more than one-fourth, but the aggregate value was almost the same in 1890 and 1900. A small increase in the quantity of ginghams is accompanied by a reduction of more than one-fifth in the gross value. The same discrepancy is to be noted throughout the list. The explanation — the greatly diminished cost of cotton dur- ing the census year 1899-1900 — is an interesting illus- tration of the untrustworthiness of statistics showing the value of products as a test of the condition of an industry, or for the purpose of comparing one industry with another. An interesting feature of the details respecting woven goods is the great increase in the quantity of articles classed as upholstery goods. In 1890 they were re- ported as of a total value of $2,070,239; in 1900 they were returned at $8,670,384, consequently, the industry has become more than four times as important as it was ten years ago. Practically the whole of this industry is located in the city of Philadelphia. An important increase is also to be noted in the pro- duction of yarns for sale. The amount, in fact, has almost exactly doubled, and the value is two-thirds greater than in 1890. There is a large and growing demand for yarn in knitting mills and in weaving es- tablishments which do no spinning, as well as in mills which spin too little for their own consumption. Prior to 1890 there were few yarn mills in the South, but during the last decade there have been many factories of that class put in operation. A large part of the yarn here reported can be traced to its ultimate use. Thus, we find that 83,832,216 pounds were used in other mills, classed as "cotton goods;" 55,217,994 pounds in the wool manufactures; 131,820,068 in the hosiery and knit goods manufactures; 10,860,648 pounds in cotton small wares establishments; 6,444,208 pounds in silk manufactures; 3,860,235 in cordage and twine; 810,957 pounds in linen manufactures; and 301,888 pounds in jute manufactures. This leaves but 39,037,798 pounds not accounted for, but the consumption of yarn for other purposes is large — for example, in winding wire to insulate it for electrical conduction. The production of sewing cotton has not kept pace, in expansion, with most other branches of the industry. It may be that the consolidation of the producing companies has led to a more close approximation of demand and supply. It will be noted that, in common with other branches of the cotton manufacture, the average price of sewing cotton has declined. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS TWICE REPORTED. The gross value at the factory of all the products of cotton mills is reported as $332,806,156. This sum is no doubt in excess of the net product, inasmuch as in many cases the finished product of one mill is the material of another. The excess is, nevertheless, far less proportionately than is the case with many other industries, for the reason that, as is elsewhere explained, the great majority of establishments in this branch of textile manufacturing carry through their raw material, cotton, from the baled lint to the woven cloth. In the aggregate, however, there is a large consumption of partially manufactured material consumed by weaving establishments, of which some spin a quantity of yarn insufficient to supply their looms, and others do not spin at all. Following is a statement, as complete as can be made, of the partially manufactured materials con- 40 MANUFACTURES. sumed which must be eliminated from the total of both materials and products to show the facts regarding this industry: Yarn: Cotton Silk Spun silk Worsted Woolen Other Total of yarn Waste of other mills Oil Starch Chemicals and dyestuffs Mill supplies Other materials Total Value. 815, 749, 536 1,158,321 625, 658 415, 904 176,467 520,223 18, 646, 109 1, 513, 281 494, 179 1,223,102 6,671,768 7,664,490 4,614,468 39,827,397 Probably a considerable amount of the chemicals and dyestuffs reported consisted either of crude materials of domestic origin, which do not appear anywhere as a product of manufacture, or of articles imported in a con- dition for immediate use; but it is impossible to sepa- rate the amounts from the total, or even to make a reasonable estimate of their value. The whole is there- fore counted as a duplication. Deducting the total above shown from the total value of materials used, the remainder is, $133,613,993. De- ducting it also from the total value of products, the remainder is $292,978,759. DYEING AND FINISHING. The dyeing and finishing of cotton yarn and cloth is carried on partly in cotton mills and partly in inde- pendent establishments. The statistics of this industry are presented in the reports on combined textiles, and on the dyeing and finishing of textiles. Table 15 shows the additional work done upon the products of mills after spinning or weaving in both classes of establish- ments, and the additional value reported to have been given to those products by the several processes. Table 15 — DYEING AND FINISHING IN COTTON MILLS AND IN INDEPENDENT ESTABLISHMENTS: 1900. TOTAL. IN COTTON MILLS. IN INDEPENDENT ESTABLISHMENTS. Quantity, pounds. Value added. Quantity, pounds. Value added. Quantity, pounds. Value added. Yarn: 12, 780, 518 206,713,712 3,018,573 $252,635 7, 691, 268 487, 946 12, 780, 518 54, 103, 555 868,851 $262,635 2,226,912 159,616 Dyed 151, 610, 157 2, 149, 722 $5,464,356 328, 330 221,512,803 8,431,849 153, 769, 879 5, 792, 686 67, 752, 924 2, 639, 163 Square yards. Value added. Square yards. Value added. Square yards. Value 1 added. Oloth: 1, 162, 593, 900 685, 374, 965 1, 233, 191, 438 7,973,506 $7, 623, 875 8, 923, 925 21,239,782 400, 118 197, 691,533! 125, 894, 626 292, 741, 100 $932,452 1, 338, 721 5,242,695 964, 902, 367 559,480,339 940, 450, 338 7, 973, 506 $6,691,423 7, 585, 204 15, 997, 087 400,118 3,089,133,809 38, 187, 700 616, 327, 259 7,513,868 2,472,806,550 30, 673, 832 46,619,549 13,306,554 33, 312, 995 From Table 15 it appears that $46,619,549 was added to the value of goods produced in the cotton mills of the country, by the various processes of dyeing and finishing. Manufacturers were not asked to return the amount of yarn bleached, and the full added value was therefore not ascertained. Even without this amount the returns show that of the yarn treated 69.4 per cent was treated in the cotton mills, and only 30.6 per cent in independent establishments. On the other hand four-fifths of the cloth treated was operated upon in independent establishments. Of the 4,509,750,616 square yards of woven goods reported in Table 14, 1,233,191,438 square yards were printed; 685,374,965 square yards were dyed; 278,392,708 square yards were ginghams, and 171,800,853 square yards ticks, denims, and stripes, containing dyed yarns — a total of 2,368,759,964 square yards. This indicates that something more than one-half of the woven goods produced in cotton mills is colored by printing or dye- ing before entering into consumption. The figures relating to bleaching are to be considered with full allowance for the fact that bleaching is a necessary pre- liminary to printing and other processes, so that the same material is twice reported. Many manufacturers in making returns of dyeing or printing did not report separately the amounts bleached, but treated the whole process as one. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 41 FINENESS OF GOODS — AVERAGE NUMBER OF TARN. The method adopted for ascertaining the average number of yarn spun is the same as that first introduced at the Eleventh Census. The method in use prior to that time was based upon the number of spindles pro- ducing yarn of a particular fineness. For example, the average number of yarn produced .by two mills, each having 10,000 spindles, the one spinning No. 20's and the other spinning No. 30's would be No. 25. This method was faulty, inasmuch as it assumed the equal speed and efficiency of all spindles, and also because it took no account of the fact that spindles of equal effi- ciency making coarse yarns spin a greater weight of yarn than those making fine yarn. The new mode of calcu- lating it is based upon the quantity of yarn produced. The average of 5,000 pounds of No. 20 and 7,000 pounds of No. 36 would be No. 29. 333. There would be 100,000 hanks (of 840 yards) of No. 20 and 352,000 hanks of No. 36, and the average is ascertained by dividing the num- ber of hanks by the number of pounds. Of course, this method does not give an absolutely accurate result, inasmuch as manufacturers can not in all cases estimate exactly what is the average number of their own pro- duction, particularly if they make yarn of many degrees of fineness; but it is more nearly correct than the for- mer system and is the most satisfactory method yet devised. To illustrate the inaccuracy that arises in the use of the present method, there is a mill in the state of New York which has a majority of its spindles pro- ducing yarn finer than No. 40; but as it operates also a comparatively small number of mules making coarse hosiery yarn, it reports its average number as 18. It is, and probably it always will be, true that an overwhelmingly great proportion of the cotton goods demanded for use even in wealthy communities is made of medium or coarse yarns. It will be seen from the table showing the gross spinning of fine, medium, and coarse yarns, that not much more than one-twentieth of the yarn spun is classed as fine. Nevertheless there is a constant tendency toward finer spinning. The de- mand for cloth classed strictly as fine increases steadily, and, among the users of the heavy goods which repre- sent the spinning and weaving industries in pioneer times, the desire grows for the standard sheetings and shirtings made of yarn ranging from No. 25 to No. 40. Yet the perversity of averages conceals these tendencies to a great extent, as will become evident upon an ex- amination of the following statement, showing by states and geographic divisions the average number of yarn spun in 1900 and 1890: STATES. AVERAGE NUMBER OF YARN. 1900 1890 21. 573 22.93 25. 560 26.20 22.937 19. 174 27. 894 25.097 36.541 30.373 19. 176 22.66 21.14 25.95 26.75 34.73 29.91 20.45 13.457 35.370 16. 489 23. 522 9.357 17.046 27.69 37.14 16.65 22.33 9.35 14.76 15. 287 18. 830 19. 040 14.371 13. 722 12. 722 14. 437 14.344 5.878 15. 876 9.680 19. 418 17.04 15.30 15.13 14.35 15.75 12.22 12.67 14.58 15.32 18. 262 22.000 20. 879 27. 000 15.426 20. 000 9.000 14.66 17.20 20.37 From the foregoing figures it would be natural to conclude that the tendency has been toward coarser spinning. But it will be seen that the average number of yarn in the Southern states, where the largest increase has taken place, has advanced two and a quarter numbers. Yet because the average in that section is still eight and a half numbers below the aver- age in New England, the general average of the whole country is reduced. In New England there was a large increase in the spinning of coarse, medium, and fine yarns. The proportional increase of fine spinning was 59.3 per cent more than the increase of coarse, and 94.7 per cent more than the increase of medium goods; but since the actual increase in pounds of fine yarn spun was less than the increase in the two other classes, the general average is slightly reduced. Table 16, showing the aggregate amount of yarn spun, by states geograph- ically arranged, divided into coarse, medium, and fine, in 1900 and 1890, gives a much better idea of the situa- tion than can be obtained from any calculation of the average number. 42 MANUFACTURES. Table 16 — YARNS SPUN, CLASSIFIED BY GRADE, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1890 AND 1900. 1900 1890 STATES. Number of hanks of yarn spun. Total. No. 20 and under. No. 21 to No. 40. No. 41 and oyer. Total. No. 20 and under. No. 21 to No. 40. No. 41 and over. 31, 660, 042, 486 Pounds. 1, 467, 565, 971 Pounds. 850, 203, 953 Pounds. 540, 166, 147 Pounds. 77, 195, 871 Pounds. 901, 842, 238 Pounds. 480, f '3, 239 Pounds. 386, 723, 173 Pounds. 34,845,826 New England states 19,067,774,000 745, 990, 534 304, 842, 149 369,423,518 71, 724, 867 574, 084, 144 207, 672, 353 331, 611, 339 34, 800, 452 1, 536, 861, 865 2,089,377,338 151, 549, 744 11, 106 615, 977 2, 822, 384, 752 1, 360, 984, 324 2,260,033,536 67, 003, 387 108, 968, 243 5, 432, 983 442, 538, 758 77, 238, 360 44, 808, 803 117, 856, 490 40, 530, 149 79,300,869 1, 525, 033 164, 190, 352 . 3, 661, 667 15, 634, 079 86, 166, 567 23, 608, 965 29, 667, 374 3, 907, 950 235, 617, 217 57, 341, 561 19, 280, 451 27, 105, 119 2, 864, 273 54, 963, 253 91, 167, 408 3, 752, 391 308, 797, 274 75, 037, 935 40, 365, 883 103, 035, 788 26, 577, 650 54, 984, 891 1, 243, 508 103, 234, 514 8, 280, 776 13, 351, 014 62, 850, 759 28, 385, 603 36, 182, 517 2, 508, 883 186,750,241 55, 640, 821 22, 143, 274 40, 139, 655 42, 731, 189 16, 235, 132 9, 894, 273 4, 584, 804 18,812,519 11, 116, 338 4, 871, 595 45, 374 985, 573, 613 432, 593, 550 535, 394, 994 24, 968, 690 281, 502, 689 9,998,763,591 42, 014, 730 12, 230, 347 32, 468, 390 1,061,474 30, 081, 549 586, 546, 002 25, 241, 091 5, 366, 044 25, 344, 251 133, 632 30, 081, 549 445, 967, 812 16,443,639 2, 979, 499 6, 754, 139 927, 842 330,000 3, 884, 804 370, 000 32, 083, 114 . 6, 133, 639 40,238,918 3, 828, 238 20, 751, 879 209, 987, 348 6, 553, 540 1,456,672 32, 215, 744 2, 325, 960 20, 298, 843 197,443,432 25, 529, 574 4,631,593 8, 023, 174 1, 502, 278 453, 036 12, 543, 916 45, 374 Marvland 139, 691, 990 886,200 230, 991, 103 2 945, 812, 639 3, 730, 694, 191 1, 680, 985, 417 124, 480, 316 141, 889, 665 835,446,399 113, 456, 683 5,251,558 111, 105, 000 78, 650, 620 15, 110, 233 156 435, 539 195, 930, 440 116, 967, 671 9,071,044 11, 152, 567 57, 866, 762 7. 909. 625 893, 279 6,998,216 8. 210. 626 13,457,870 99,021,341 132, 903, 687 108, 276, 364 5, 818, 514 11, 152, 567 51, 325, 723 7. 909. 625 893, 279 6, 998, 216 8. 210. 626 1, 652, 363 56, 527, 998 63,026,753 8, 691, 307 3,252,530 7,719,379 45, 048, 638 54,520,363 58, 832, 378 4,248,115 12, 310, 343 11,699,255 6,966,959 7,719,379 41,972,080 53, 275, 593 52, 611, 129 2, 246, 776 12, 310, 343 11, 699, 255 6, 966, 959 886, 200 3, 076, 558 1, 244, 770 6,221,249 2,001,339 6, 541, 039 All other Southern states 8, 641, 918 14,734,958 8,641,918 12, 306, 695 333,471,359 17, 172, 945 13,227,425 3, 945, 520 2, 428, 263 158, 265, 234 48, 345, 506 36,855,304 20,339,500 26, 233, 875 42, 081, 940 1,350,000 8,666,072 2, 197. 523 1, 765, 128 1, 318, 500 971, 625 2, 104, 097 150, 000 8, 666, 072 6, 649, 187 2,374,131 2, 682, 606 6, 649, 187 950, 000 1,678,474 2,197,523 776, 372 1, 424, 131 1,004,132 988, 756 1, 318, 500 Nebraska 971, 625 2,104,097 150,000 3, 029, 034 3,029,034 POWER. The returns of power used in the cotton-manufactur- ing industry present the extraordinary fact, that of the 806,121 horsepower employed in all the establishments in the United States, only 12,602 horsepower, less than 1.6 per cent, was hired. It should be explained that a large number of corporations whose factories are operated by waterpower do not own the water privileges. That is to say, they pay in one form or another for the water which turns their wheels. This expense is not classed as rent, but as a part of the materials used. It is evidently an expense of the same sort as the fuel which is consumed in supplying steam power. Although the statistics are lacking for a comparison of the kinds of power in use during the year 1900 with those employed in previous census years, yet it may be surmised with a degree of confidence that the present returns signalize a culmination of the use of steam as compared with waterpower. In the early days of the industry cotton factories were usually, one might almost say invariably, located upon waterpower. So universally was this the practice that cotton mills which were erected in coast towns, where coal could be pro- cured at a low transportation cost for steam making, were distinguished in the titles of the corporations as "steam" mills. But the inadequacy of waterpower as the motive force for great groups of factories, and the failures and stoppages caused by drought, flood and ice, led to the addition of steam engines for a sup- plementary power, and to the erection of mills without reference to waterpower. This change has gone to such an extent that steam power used in the factories is more than double the waterpower employed. The numbers representing the two kinds of power are 527,186 horsepower for steam, and 250,790 horsepower for water. There are, nevertheless, some reasons for believing that there may be a reaction, the importance of which can not be predicted. The development of the use of electricity carries with it the possibility of a cheap transmission of power to a distance without serious loss. In this way it becomes feasible to make available certain waterpowers which, on account of their location or the physical characteristics of the country, have heretofore been useless. The growing importance of electricity as a motor appears in the current returns which show a total of over 18,000 electric horsepower, owned and rented. The applica- tion of electricity direct to the machinery, without the use of shafting and belting, is comparatively new, but it is certain that it has a great future, and that here- COTTON MANUFACTURES. 43 after manufacturers will find in the system great bene- fits, of which a saving in expense will not be the least. MACHINERY. Ever since the first application of mechanical power to the movement of the spindle there has been a constant improvement in the machinery employed in the spinning and weaving of cotton. The foundation of the cotton manufacture was laid in the almost simultaneous inven- tion of the steam engine and the earliest fonn of spin- ning machinery. Hargreaves's spinning jenny, invented in 1764 and patented in 1770; Arkwright's water frame, the invention of drawing by rollers, brought out in 1769 and improved in 1775; Crompton's mule — so called because it combined the principles of Hargreaves's and Arkwright's inventions — patented in 1779; these ante- dated but a short time the introduction of Watts's steam engine, which was invented in 1769, became a practica- ble power agent by improvements made in 1781, and was first applied to the production of cotton yarn in 1785. All of Arkwright's patents, which included improve- ments in carding, drawing, roving, and spinning, were thrown open in 1785. In the same year Dr. Cartwright invented the power loom, and thus completed the group of fundamental inventions of which all modern spinning and weaving machinery is but an adaptation and a series of improvements. But there has been another series of inventions di- rected to the economical, rapid, and thorough prepara- tion of the cotton for spinning, as well as a constant succession of improvements in the final processes of the manufacture, which have multiplied a hundred if not a thousand fold the efficiency of the industry. In the year 1800 the scutching machine was introduced, the invention of Snodgrass, of Glasgow. The lap machine was introduced in nearly the form it has to- day by Mr. John Crighton, of Manchester, in 1814. Mr. Crighton also effected an important reform in the processes of opening and scutching. The invention of the carding machine and its gradual evolution into the almost perfect mechanism of to-day, cover nearly the whole of the Nineteenth century. The first important improvement was made in 1823. The principle of the revolving flat was devised in 1834. After being neglected for more than twenty years it was taken up and improved in 1857, and about 1880 became, in the hands of the Messrs. Ashworth, substantially the card- ing machine of the present day. The combing machine was first exhibited by its inventor, Mr. Josue Heil- mann, of Mulhouse, at the Paris Exposition, in 1851. The mule, as invented by Crompton, was a semi- manual machine. Richard Roberts, in 1835, trans- formed it into the purely automatic machine which we see at this time, so exact and precise in its several suc- cessive motions that it seems endowed with almost human intelligence. Since Roberts's time the history of the mule has been one of development in detail and of better construction, but the changes of this sort have made it vastly more useful in speed, in precision of action, and in the quality of the yarn which it makes. The improvement in frame spinning has been much greater than in the mule. The invention of the ring and the traveler in the third decade of the last century opened a wide field to the genius of mechanicians. Im- provement followed improvement in rapid succession until the Rabbeth spindle reached what seems to be the practical limit of speed, and, therefore, of the production of yarn, at about 10,000 turns a minute. The final im- provements, which made ring spinning more economical and profitable than mule spinning, for all except certain special purposes, in mills wherein both spinning and weaving are carried on, were accomplished in the closing decades of the century. The most important advance in machinery during the past decade has been in the loom. Glancing backward we find that Cartwright invented the power loom in 1785, as has been already noted. The policy of the British Government at that time and for many years afterwards forbade the exportation of machinery and of patterns for making it. Accordingly, it was necessary to reinvent the power loom for use in the manufacture of cotton in this country. The feat was successfully accomplished by Francis Cabot Lowell, in 1814. Numer- ous improvements were made during the ensuing three- quarters of a century. The efforts of inventors are always directed toward the discovery of devices by which the speed of machinery may be increased, of auto- matic motions which will diminish the amount of care and attention to be bestowed by operatives upon the machines, and to a reduction of the time during which the machines must be stopped, either after a breakage of the yarn or to replace exhausted shuttles. Stop- motions have been devised for many of the machines used in cotton mills, arrangements by which the breaking of a single thread at any point causes the whole machine to stop instantly. The problem of the loom, so- far as necessary stop- pages are concerned, has been most difficult. For spin- ning, the process, whether on the mule or on the frame, ma} 7 be said to be almost continuous, the time required for doffing forming but an inappreciable part of the whole. But the capacitj 7 of the shuttle is limited. At the speed at which modern looms are run the yarn in the shuttle box is exhausted in about eight minutes, in the manu- facture of medium shirtings or print cloths. If the yarn is coarser and the speed the same, the shuttle needs to be changed still oftener. Inasmuch as the cost of labor in weaving is fully one-half the labor cost of con- verting a pound of raw cotton into cloth, the importance of reducing or of doing away altogether with the time occupied in changing shuttles is too evident to be more than stated. Attention was long ago turned in this di- rection. In 1840 an English patent was taken out for a shuttle-changing device when the weft was broken or 44 MANUFACTURES. exhausted; but it seems not to have been successful, otherwise it would have been adopted by manufacturers throughout the world. Many inventors have exercised their ingenuity to overcome the mechanical difficulty. Within the last decade the principle so long sought after has been found, but it consists not in a changing of the shuttle while the loom is in motion, but in giving the shuttle a fresh supply of weft without removing it from the loom. The success of the Northrop loom has stimulated inventors to accomplish equally brilliant re- sults by new devices of the shuttle-changing variety. Although there are some machines which effect the change with promising efficiency, they are yet in the experimental stage. On the other hand, the Northrop loom, which was first brought to the attention of manufacturers in April, 1895, has such self-evident advantages for the weaving of plain cloth that in less than five years, at the end of the year 1899, the output was more than 42,500 looms. This loom has two fundamental improvements — the filling-changing mechanisms and the warp-stopping de- vices. By the first, the time of stoppage on account of exhausted shuttles is wholly saved. By the second, the machine is stopped instantly upon the breaking of a single warp thread. In combination they add greatly. to the productive capacity of' the weaver. A good weaver, operating plain narrow looms, has a capacity of 8 looms. His time is chiefly occupied by replacing empty shuttles and in mending broken warp threads. The first is the more important, inasmuch as the failure to repair warp breaks merely causes an imperfection in the weaving, which is tolerated in many classes of goods; whereas an empty shuttle means a stoppage of the loom. The filling-changing mechanism reduces to a small frac- tion the time needed to supply looms with weft, and thus leaves most of the weaver's time free to repair warp breaks. His capacity is therefore increased to the num- ber of looms for which he can perform this service, practically, to double or more than double the number of plain looms which he can tend. The saving which is effected is illustrated by the fact that in some cases the weaver, on leaving his work for dinner, has left all his looms running, the filling magazines all full, and on re- turning at the expiration of the dinner interval has found some of them still running. All those in which there had been a breakage of the warp had of course stopped, and therefore no imperfect cloth had been woven. The stimulation to the production of a rival to this invention has already been mentioned. But the intro- duction of the Northrop loom has had an important reflex influence upon other parts of the cotton-manufac- turing machinery. For example, an appreciable gain of time can be made if the frequency of stoppages for changing the shuttle can be diminished. Heretofore mule filling has not been adapted to the Northrop loom, where a large ring bobbin can be more readily handled than a mule cop on the spindle. Moreover, there has been in the past difficulty in making mule cops of large size that would be proof against breaking in the shuttle, or in being handled about the mill. The waste from mule filling was in many cases so great as to be prohib- itive. Weavers preferred to use small cops rather than take the risks of large cops falling apart in weaving. But the problem of spinning large, well-wound mule cops of filling yarn has now been solved, and the neces- sary devices can be applied to old mules. A weaver tending 8 looms, and changing shuttles that contain yarn enough to supply the loom eight minutes, has to make an average change of one a minute. The larger mule cops contain enough No. 36 yarn to run twelve minutes, and of course his loom capacity is considerably increased. Many manufacturers prefer mule filling for certain fabrics on account of the soft appearance and "feel" of the cloth, as compared with ring-filling cloth, and the new mills which have been built to make the higher grades of fine cloths are still fully equipped with mules to make filling. If the mule is being adapted to produce yarns usable where frame-spun yarn has heretofore had full sway, there has been a promising effort to adapt the ring- traveler principle to the production of a slack-twisted yarn, which could formerly be made only on the mule, at the same time winding it on the bare spindle, in cop form. This improvement is as yet only in the experi- mental stage. ' At present there seems to be a difficulty in the way of making use of the device for the produc- tion of knitting yarns, which constitutes the largest demand for yarns not immediately used by the spinner. Soft-twisted yarns for knitting purposes should be in large cops to avoid frequent piecings in the knitting machine. This does not now seem practicable, for the greater diameter of ring necessary would bring too great a strain upon the yarn. No doubt in time this difficulty can be overcome, as many difficulties greater than this have been surmounted. The attempt to solve the problem is cited as evidence that the age of inven- tion in the marvelously developed cotton-manufacturing industry has not yet closed. THE PROGRESS OF THE INDUSTRY AS INDICATED BY THE NUMBER OF SPINDLES. Table 17 shows the number of cotton spindles used in textile manufactures, by states, 1890 and 1900. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 45 Table 17.— NUMBER OF ACTIVE COTTON SPINDLES IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1890 AND 1900. 1900 1890 BTATE8. Total. In cotton mills. In hosiery and knit goods mills./ In worsted mills. In woolen and carpet mills. In cotton small wares, and cordage and twine factories. Total. 19,472,232 19, 008, 352 206, 698 95,356 59,460 102, 366 14,384,180 13,171,377 12, 850, 987 137, 376 95,356 27,344 60, 314 10, 934, 297 848,377 1,249,875 100,028 7, 932, 883 1,976,198 1,064,016 1, 721, 347 841, 521 1,243,555 100, 028 7, 784, 687 1,880,622 1,000,574 1,647,251 3,584 3,272 892,762 1,198,643 71, 591 5,872,852 1,969,294 939,155 1, 716, 019 6,320 91,356 60,080 45,276 3,760 10,000 10, 000 20,184 3,000 40,300 13,742 1,200 39, 700 62, 712 764, 492 481, 730 336, 509 34, 552 154, 064 4, 354, 034 720, 268 431,730 306, 637 34, 552 154,064 4, 298, 188 38, 404 5,820 629, 324 374,442 14,308 14, 364 1,200 496, 551 63, 916 161, 786 16, 610 6,000 34, 236 1, 563, 598 132, 707 1,137,328 1,436,969 832, 321 66, 633 130, 296 419, 968 78, 146 13,060 57,850 48, 756 225,474 126, 827 1,133,432 1,431,349 815, 545 66, 633 123,896 411,328 75, 122 9,700 55, 600 48, 756 211, 926 5,880 2,860 5,620 94,294 1,036 344,606 332,784 445,462 42,942 98,324 16, 776 5,000 1,400 8,640 3,024 3,360 79, 362 57, 004 6,780 2,250 48,050 16,000 170, 266 6,932 6,616 4,600 108, 988 31,488 21,496 4,600 16,580 80,604 102,488 81, 488 21,496 6,500 21,800 32,592 6,000 6,690 13,654 15, 488 432 17, 312 2,016 10,000 13,654 15, 488 [::.:::::::: Utah 432 17, 312 2,016 10,000 6,000 The number of working spindles is the universally accepted measure of the capacity of cotton mills, and of the growth of the industry in any particular state or region. It is admittedly an imperfect measure; but it is not only more accurate than would be any expression in terms of capital employed, number of hands or their wages, quantity or value of materials consumed, or weight or value of product, but it is also a better gauge than is available for most industries. The present mill of 50,000 spindles is a vastly larger factory in all re- spects than was the mill of 50,000 spindles in 1850, and the 19,000,000 spindles of the year 1900 undoubtedly produce five times as great an amount of goods as the 7,000,000 spindles of 1870. Nevertheless, the necessity manufacturers are under to adopt improvements in machinery produces such an equalizing effect upon the several establishments at any one time that the per- centage of correction needed is not great; and the rate of progress in the efficiency of machinery is so well known that it is easy to make allowance for it in com- parisons of one time with another. The grand total of active producing cotton spindles in all the textile mills of the United States during the census year 1899-1900 was 19,472,232, as compared with 14,384,180 1 at the Eleventh Census, a numerical increase of 5,088,052 spindles, or 35.4 per cent. These spindles were located as follows: 1900 1890 19,008,352 206, 698 95, 356 59, 460 42,600 59,766 14,188,103 69,830 68,225 68,022 ( 2 ) (") Total 19,472,232 14, 384, 180 1 Including carpets. 2 Included in cotton mills. 3 Not reported. The indicated increase in the number of spindles in mills other than cotton factories is apparent rather than real. A company in New England having 75,000 spindles, which in 1890 made both woven goods and knit goods, and was then classed as operating a cotton factory, now makes hosiery and knit goods exclusively, 1 The total number of spindles in the United States as reported at the Eleventh Census was 14,550,323, of which 166,143 were idle spindles in cotton mills. At this census no idle spindles which are likely to be put in operation again were reported from any state. 46 MANUFACTURES. and being classed with that industry swells the total unduly. In many cases, both in 1890 and in 1900, com- panies that produce both cotton and woolen or worsted goods, or mixed goods, made divided returns of their operations; some such companies made but one return, being classified according to the relative importance of their cotton or their woolen business. The fact of their making one return or divided returns at one census and not at the other explains partially the apparent increase in 1900. No doubt a certain part of the increase is real. Although the gross number of operating spindles in mills of all kinds, 19,472,232, is to be taken as the true measure of the magnitude of the cotton industry in the United States, the present report deals exclusively with the spindles in cotton mills proper. The percent- age of increase in them in the whole country is almost exactly 34 per cent. If we estimate that the average efficiency of spindles has increased 5 per cent during the same period, the ability of American mills to supply a demand for goods has increased about 40 per cent. Numerically there has been an addition of 2,014,832 spindles, or 18.6 per cent, in New England; of 13,529 spindles in number, or 0.8 per cent, in the Middle states; of 2,744,188 spindles in number, or 176.6 per cent, in the Southern states; and of 47,700 spindles in number, or 29 per cent, in the Western states. Taking account of the spinning capacity of spindles, the growth of the industry in the New England states is probably not greatly above that which is indicated by the actual num- ber of spindles, since the mills in that part of the coun- try were in advance of the South in installing improved spindles. On the other hand, not only has the number of spindles in the Southern states become nearly three- fold that reported in 1890, but the spindles themselves are for the most part of the latest and most efficient types. With respect to one state the test of capacity by the number of spindles wholly fails. The industry in Pennsylvania is largely one of weaving yarn made elsewhere. Although the state ranks fifth in the value of the products of its cotton mills, and fourth among the states in the amount of wages paid to employees, it is only the twelfth according to the number of spindles. It shows a considerable increase of looms, and the in- dustry has in fact expanded during the decade, but the number of spindles has declined. Table 18 shows the mule and frame spindles in cotton mills, by states and 1900. geographically arranged: 1880, 1890, Table 18.— NUMBER OF SPINDLES IN COTTON MILLS, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1880, 1890, AND 1900. 1900 1890 1880 Total. Mule. Frame. Total. Mule. Frame. Total. 19,008,352 5,563,480 13, 444, 872 14, 188, 103 5, 363, 486 8,824,617 10, 653, 435 12, 850, 987 4, 477, 199 8, 373, 788 10,836,155 4, 391, 895 6, 444, 260 8, 632, 087 841,521 1,243,565 100, 028 7,784,687 1,880,622 1, 000, 574 1, 647, 251 256,948 287, 165 43, 316 2, 566, 316 940, 328 393, 126 858, 675 584, 573 956, 390 56, 712 5, 228, 371 940,294 607, 448 788, 576 885, 762 1,195,643 71, 591 5,824,518 1,924,486 934, 155 1, 633, 722 344, 697 364, 234 42,735 2, 430, 719 811, 869 397, 641 822, 613 541, 065 831, 409 28,856 3, 393, 799 1,112,617 536,514 811, 109 695, 924 944, 053 55, 081 4,236,084 1,391,164 720, 268 431, 730 306, 637 34,652 154, 064 4, 298, 188 367, 136 367, 092 124, 447 353, 132 64, 638 182, 190 34,552 154,064 4, 117, 654 606, 796 374, 442 439, 638 53, 916 158, 930 1, 554, 000 334, 210 304, 480 175, 687 2,880 5,356 108,474 272, 586 69, 962 263, 951 51, 036 153, 574 1, 445, 526 561, 658 426, 391 180, 534 1 542, 048 126, 827 1, 133, 432 1, 431, 349 816,545 66,633 123,896 411,328 76, 122 9,700 55, 600 48, 756 211, 926 2,325 35,352 10, 752 84,926 18, 399 20,780 8,000 124,502 1, 098, 080 1, 420, 597 730, 619 48,234 103, 116 403, 328 75, 122 9,700 55, 600 48, 756 164,854 94,294 337, 786 332, 784 445, 452 42, 942 97,524 79, 234 67, 004 5,780 46, 200 15,000 164,226 13, 198 30, 920 4,000 20, 524 8,784 21,588 9,460 81, 096 306, 866 328,784 424,928 34,158 75, 936 69, 774 57, 004 5,780 46,200 15, 000 123, 722 44,340 92,385 82, 334 9,022 35, 736 49,432 18,568 47, 072 40, 504 '88,136 16, 560 74, 604 21, 800 32, 592 6,000 6,670 8,152 16, 320 8,000 5,632 8,408 58, 284 13, 800 26, 960 6,000 4,270 13,328 33, 396 103,488 31,488 21, 496 16, 320 16, 000 2,816 86, 168 15, 488 18, 680 13,654 15,488 17, 312 10,000 13,654 9,216 11, 648 10,000 2,400 19, 312 6,272 5,664 6,000 6,000 1 Includes in 1880, 11,575 spindles reported by states other than those named. 2 Includes in 1880, 22,100 spindles reported by states other than those named. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 47 Attention was called in the report upon the Eleventh Census to the steady substitution of frame spindles for mules. The change has been going on to a marked degree during the past ten years. It would, perhaps, not be accurate to assert that mules have been to any great extent removed from old mills and ring spindles placed in them. The more correct view is that sub- stantially all the new spinning is frame spinning. In New England the increase in mule spindles is less than 100,000; of frame spindles, nearly 2,000,000. In the South ten years ago there were only 108,474 mule spindles; there are now reported 180,534; but as con- trasted with this very moderate increase we have an addition of almost 2,700,000 frame spindles. In the Middle states the mule has more than held its own. Ten years ago there was an excess of about 11,000 mule spindles over ring spindles. B} r the present count the excess is about 70,000. It is well known that although for most purposes in cotton manufacturing the yarn made upon ring spindles is altogether satisfactory, there is a demand for slack- twisted yarn chiefly for knit underwear, which has heretofore been produced by the mule only. Moreover, a mechanical difficulty which has not been overcome has been experienced in employ- ing ring spindles for spinning upon cops, where the yarn made in one mill must be transported to another part of the country for consumption in hosiery mills. It is, therefore, not probable that there will be a reduc- tion in the number of mules in use, and there may even be an increase; but the economy in the production of yarn by ring spindles, and the fact that the machinery can be operated by labor not so highly skilled as is required for mule spinning, will doubtless cause the tendency to install frame spindles in new spinning and weaving mills to continue. It will be observed that in Rhode Island there has been an actual decrease of ring spindles and an increase of mules. The mills of that state produce a large amount of fine yarn, and many of them are engaged extensively in spinning yarn for knitting mills. The ascendency of the mule in New Jersey is explained by the fact that the industry in that state is for the most part devoted to the production of fine sewing thread, to which the mule is by far the bet- ter adapted. No radical improvement has been made during the past decade in spinning machinery of either kind, nor do the makers of such machinery anticipate great changes in the future. The mule is already a perfect machine, in the sense that it is automatic in every part and that in none of the various operations which it performs without human guidance does any part act as a drag upon others. Inasmuch as the spindles are now oper- ated at as high a speed as is compatible with the spin- ning of good yarn, it follows that in order to increase the production sensibly it would be necessary to im- prove the machine not in one part only but in many parts. With respect to the ring spindle the quantity of yarn it can make of any particular count is directly proportioned to the speed of the spindle itself. Ten thousand turns a minute comes near to being the limit of the ring spindle under present conditions, because at a speed above that the travelers are apt to fly off badly. It it estimated that the average speed of the spindle on No. 28 warp yarn is about 9,000 turns. The production of yarn per spindle varies greatly with the number of yarn spun, and the speed varies in nlmost like propor- tion — that is, on coarse yarns a spindle running 7,000 turns a minute is running relatively as fast as when it is going 10,000 turns a minute on fine yarns. During the ten years 1880-1890 the number of frame spindles sold by all manufacturers and placed in the old and new mills was 6,000,193. The corresponding number for the period 1890-1900 was 8,901,408. The total for the period of twenty years exceeds the whole number of ring spindles in the United States, a fact which suggests that substantially all the spindles of older types have been replaced. There were in 1880 in all the Northern states 10,111,387 spindles. No count was taken of the number of mule and frame spin- dles; but during the ensuing decade 1,569,589 new ring spindles were placed in old frames, and 3,561,896 spin- dles in new frames were installed, replacing either mules or old-fashioned ring spindles thrown out. At the close of the decade, at the census of 1890, there were in Northern mills 7,255,369 ring spindles. In the last ten years 3,520,640 spindles in new frames have been placed in mills which were built prior to 1890, in addition to 1,742,120 spindles in old frames. Thus more than one- half of the spindles in use ten years ago in Northern mills have since been replaced. The absolute increase of spindles in the South between 1880 and 1890 was 1,011,952. The number of new spindles installed in that part of the country during the same period was 868,708, which, it will be noticed, was 143,244 less than the total increase. During the early years of the South- ern development it was not unusual to equip mills with machinery discarded by Northern mills. But in the last decade the numerical increase of frame spindles in the South has been 2,672,128, and the number of new spin- dles has been 3,283,884, showing that not only were all, or substantially all, the spindles in the new mills of the most modern type, but that about 600,000 old spindles in old mills were replaced by new. Combining the twenty years we find that there is a present total of 4,117,654 frame spindles in the South, and that 4,152,592 new spindles have been supplied to them in that time. The installation of new spindles, by years, and by a geo- graphical division into North and South, is shown by the following table: 48 MANUFACTURES. Table 19.— NUMBER OF FRAME SPINDLES SOLD, SUMMARY: JANUARY 1, 1890, TO JANUARY 1, 1900. Aggregate. NORTHERN STATES. SOUTHERN STATES. YEARS. Total. New frames. Old frames. Total. New frames. Old frames. To new mills. To old mills. To new mills. To old mills. Total 8,901,408 5,617,624 354,764 3, 520, 640 1, 742, 120 3, 283, 884 1, 467, 624 1,485,459 330,801 1890 784, 809 656, 306 866, 616 1,042,268 552, 767 958, 426 1, 518, 099 651,427 730,312 1, 140, 378 602, 890 499, 999 691, 510 823, 008 377, 423 669,075 832, 027 278, 439 339,226 503, 927 38,600 14, 656 36,440 64, 666 18, 812 45, 120 128, 192 11, 424 4,480 2,384 356, 225 298,288 415, 483 493, 435 241, 397 464, 056 512, 089 154, 160 231, 063 354,444 208, 065 187, 055 239, 587 274, 917 117, 214 159, 899 191, 746 112, 855 103, 683 147, 099 181, 919 156, 307 175, 106 219, 260 175, 344 289, 351 686, 072 372, 988 391,086 636, 451 57, 909 18, 697 60, 552 48,080 73, 048 113, 560 309, 060 206, 468 205, 491 374, 759 108,260 116, 425 97,282 135, 524 84,040 145, 691 315, 976 121,252 150, 117 210, 892 15,750 1891 21,185 1892 17, 272 1893 1894 35,656 18,256 1895 80,100 1896 61,036 1897 46, 268 1898 35, 478 1899 50, 800 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON PER SPINDLE. The length of yarn spun is, in general , directlj' propor- tioned to the speed of spindles. The weight of yarn spun upon spindles of equal efficiency is proportioned to the coarseness or fineness of the yarn. Thus it might happen that spindles of an ancient pattern, producing No. 10 yarn, would consume several times as much raw cotton as an equal number of the high-speed modern spindles would convert into No. 50 yarn. Conse- quently, in studying the table which shows the average consumption of cotton per spindle in the several divi- sions of the country, it must be borne in mind that the indication is a resultant of two forces acting in oppo- site directions. It will be seen that the tendency is, as it was during the preceding decade, to an enlarged average consump- tion. In the whole country it has gone up from 70.43 pounds in 1880, to 78.79 pounds in 1890, and 95.43 pounds in 1900. The increase is due chiefly to tbe greatly enlarged extent of» the industry in the South. For although the average increase per spindle in that section is but little more than 3 pounds, yet the num- ber of spindles which consume more than twice the average of New England spindles is three times as great as in 1890, and the proportion of the whole is much larger. Although the circumstance of the excessive increase of spinning in the South as compared with the rest of the country masks the actual facts of the case, yet an analysis of the figures by sections gives some useful indications. Thus in New England there has been an increased relative production of fine yarn, and yet the average annual consumption of cotton has in- creased by 7 pounds, or rather more than 10 per cent. We may, perhaps, infer that the average efficiency of spindles increased somewhere between one-eighth and one-seventh. On the other hand, the average consump- tion per spindle in the Southern states increased but a little more than 3 pounds a j r ear, or about 2 per cent. But there was a notable increase in the number of yarn spun in those states. For example, in North Carolina from No. 15.30 to No. 18.90, and in South Carolina from No. 15.13 to No. 19.04. It would require spin- dles averaging from 20 to 25 per cent greater efficiency to accomplish the conversion of an equal weight of cot- ton into the finer yarn; and since the actual consump- tion has also increased, we may fairly conclude that the average efficiency of spindles operated in Southern mills has increased by from 25 to 30 per cent, and that they are on the whole quite up to the average of the whole country. The industry, being stationary, or de- clining, in the Middle and Western states, except as regards the weaving business in Philadelphia, the facts regarding those divisions of the country call for no special comment. The situation presented is, to be found in the following statement: COTTON CONSUMED PER SPINDLE. GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. 1900 1890 1880 Pounds. 95.43 Pounds. 78.79 Pounds. 70.43 72.94 88.24 164.65 111.07 65.95 78.46 161.41 147.55 62.72 78.68 155.94 171.55 Table 20, which is a continuation of one in the report on the Eleventh Census, is valuable rather in detail and for purposes of comparison than in any general deduc- tion that may legitimately be drawn from it. This will appear from a consideration of the fact that although the number of spindles to each wage-earner has in- creased 5.64 in New England and 1.42 in the South — the two sections which combined contain 90 per cent of all the spindles in the country — the number of spin- dles to each wage-earner in the United States as a whole has decreased 1.02. The explanation is a simple one, namely, the marvelous increase of the industry in the South, where the number of persons employed bj T a mill of a given size is much greater than in the great factory towns of the North. As employees become more skilled and experienced, a greater average amount of machin ery can be put in charge of each individual. This re- sult is already beginning to appear in the labor returns COTTON MANUFACTURES. 49 of the southern mills; but a great proportionate in- crease in the number of spindles in the South, and of hands employed, showing, even at the improved condi- tion, an average number of spindles to hands barely half that in New England, makes the comparison for the whole country, as between 1890 and 1900, misleading. Table 20.— COTTON GOODS, NUMBER OF SPINDLES TO EACH WAGE-EARNER, AND THE AMOUNT PAID FOR LABOR TO EACH SPINDLE, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1880 TO 1900. Year. United Slates . New England states. Maine. New Hampshire . Vermont. Massachusetts. Rhode Island . Connecticut. Middle states . New York . New Jersey Pennsylvania . Delaware . Maryland . Southern slates . Virginia. North Carolina. South Carolina. Georgia ... Kentucky. Tennessee. Alabama. 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1S90 1900 1S90 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1 900 1890 1900 1S90 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 WAGE-EARNERS. Average number. 297, 929 218, 876 172,544 162, 294 147, 359 125, 779 13, 723 13,912 11, 759 20,454 19,383 16, 395 1,015 724 721 92,085 75,544 61,246 21, 823 24, 576 21, 174 13, 194 13, 220 14,484 34,843 31,841 28,118 8,659 8,316 9,227 5,518 5,632 4,179 15, 567 12, 666 9,879 372 971 791 4,727 4,256 4,042 97, 494 36, 415 16, 317 2,931 1,990 1,085 30, 273 8,515 3,232 30, 201 8,071 2,018 18, 283 10, 314 6,215 1,351 818 2,108 2,124 1,015 8,332 2,088 1.448 Total wages. 885, 126, 310 66, 024, 538 42,040,510 55,367,541 47,832,943 32, 170, 861 4,330,297 4,213,523 2,936,640 6, 759, 422 6, 242, 204 4, 290, 960 259, 758 204,538 161, 748 32,327,443 25,118,365 15,828,571 7, 297, 119 7, 814, 767 5,320,303 4,393,502 4,239,546 3, 632, 639 11, 396, 710 10,184,589 6,613,260 2, 582, 394 2,448,031 1, 994, 755 1,887,119 1,984,659 1, 156, 961 5, 602, 339 4,388,017 2, 502, 688 138, 844 308, 346 192, 727 1,186,014 1, 055, 536 766, 129 17, 501, 648 7, 116, 865 2, 750, 986 668, 556 373, 993 169, 789 5,127,087 1,475,932 439, 659 5, 066, 840 1, 510, 494 380, 844 3, 566, 951 2, 167, 036 1,135,184 280, 407 170, 573 63, 850 422, 935 444, 573 161,071 1,482,226 402, 908 239, 998 Number of spindles. 19, 008, 352 14, 188, 103 10,653,435 Number of spindles to each wage- earner. 12,850,987 10,836,155 8, 632, 087 841, 521 885, 762 695,924 1,243,555 1, 195, 643 944, 053 100, 028 71,591 55, 081 7,784,687 5,824,518 4,236,084 1,880,622 1,924,486 1, 764, 569 1,000,574 934,155 936, 376 1,647,251 1,633,722 1,391,164 720, 268 606, 796 561, 658 431,730 374,442 232, 221 306. 637 439. 638 425, 391 34,552 53, 916 46,188 154, 064 158, 930 125,706 4, 298, 188 1,554,000 542, 048 126, 827 94, 294 44, 340 1,133,432 337,786 92, 386 1,431,349 332, 784 82, 334 815, 545 445, 452 198, 656 66, 633 42, 942 9,022 123, 896 97, 524 35, 736 411, 328 79, 234 49,432 63.80 64.82 61.74 Labor cost per spin- dle. 79.18 73.54 68.63 61.32 63.67 59.18 60.80 61.69 57.58 98.55 98.88 76.40 84.54 77.10 69.17 86.18 78.31 83.34 75.84 70.66 64.65 47.28 51.31 49.48 83.18 72.97 60.87 78.24 66.48 55.57 19.70 34.71 43.06 92.88 55.53 58.39 32.59 37.34 31.10 44.09 42.67 33.22 43.27 47.38 40.87 37.44 39.67 28.58 47.39 41.23 40.80 44.61 43.19 31.96 49.32 62.50 25.93 58.77 45. 92 35.21 49.37 37.95 34.14 84.48 4.65 3.95 4.31 4.41 3.73 5.15 4.76 4.22 5.44 5.22 4.55 2.60 2.86 2.94 4.15 4.31 3.74 4.06 3.02 4.39 4.54 3.88 6.92 6.23 4.75 3.59 4.03 3.55 4.37 5.30 4.98 18.27 9.98 5.88 4.02 5.72 4.17 7.70 6.64 6.09 4.07 4.58 6.08 5.27 3.97 4.52 4.37 4.76 3.54 4.54 4.63 4.37 4.86 5.71 4.21 3.97 7.08 3.41 4.56 4.51 3.60 5.09 4.86 MON TEXT i 50 MANUFACTURES. Table 20.— COTTON GOODS, NUMBER OF SPINDLES TO EACH WAGE-EARNER, AND THE AMOUNT PAID FOR LABOR TO EACH SPINDLE, BY, STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1880 TO 1900— Continued. Year. WAGE-EARNERS. Number of spindles. Number of spindles to each wage- earner. Labor cost STATES. Average number. Total wages. per spin- dle. 1900 1890 1880 1900 ■1890 U880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 U900 1890 U880 1900 1890 U880 U900 U890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1,675 1,154 695 984 $339, 546 263, 997 133,214 253, 630 75, 122 57, 004 18,568 48, 756 44.86 49.40 26.72 49.55 $4.52 4.63 7.17 5.20 All other Southern states 2 1,356 1,341 261 3,298 3,261 2,330 293, 470 307,359 27,377 860, 411 890, 141 505,403 65,300 66, 980 11, 575 211, 926 164, 226 88,136 48.16 49.95 44.35 64.26 50.36 37.83 4.49 4.69 2.37 4.06 5.42 6.73 Ohio 106 554 481 1,421 1,309 708 27, 861 161,613 104,500 323,949 310,342 162, 829 16,560 13,328 102, 488 74,604 33,396 29.89 27.71 72.12 66.99 47.17 9.76 7.84 3.16 4.16 4.88 430 123, 986 21,800 50.70 5.69 347 490 80,567 131, 170 21,496 32, 592 61.95 66.51 3.75 4.02 508 1,424 478 633 97,680 428,034 163, 030 140, 394 19, 312 87,942 18,670 22,100 38.02 61.76 39.06 34.91 5.06 8.73 6.35 i Included in "all other Southern states." 2 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— 1900, Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1; 1890, Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; Texas, 1; 1880, Florida, 1; Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2: Texas, 2. Western states— 1900, California, 1; Colorado, 1; Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1; 1890, California, 1; Iowa, 2; Missouri, 1; 1880, Illinois, 2; Michigan, 1; Wisconsin, 1; Minnesota, 1; Utah, 1. > The figures examined in detail are nevertheless in- structive and useful. It will be seen that the number of spindles to each wage-earner has increased in three of the four geographical divisions and in most of the states. The decline in the Middle states is to be ascribed chiefly to the fact mentioned elsewhere — that the industry in Pennsylvania is becoming more and more a weaving industry and that the number of spindles has declined. This feature becomes almost startlingly apparent in the last column of the table, where the labor cost per spindle is correctly reported as more than twice that of any other state. Indeed, the character of the industry in Pennsylvania differs so widely from that of any other state that it is not properly included in any table in- tended to show averages for the whole country. With reference to the "labor cost per spindle" it is to be said that it shows upon the whole an increase, by states, by geographical divisions, and for the United States. It thus indicates a certain increase of wages, as the column showing the relation of the number of spindles to that of wage-earners indicates an increase of skill. But even here it is necessary to exercise caution in making deductions, for the problem is complicated by the fact that, premising an equal amount of skill on the part of operatives, a coarse-goods mill requires more machinery and more hands for a given amount of output than a fine-goods mill. The average spinning in the South is coarser than that in New England, and con- sequently a larger force is needed. Moreover, the mat- ter of the labor cost per spindle is complicated by considerations of the hours of labor in a working day, of the proportion of women and children, as compared with men, employed, and of other matters of less impor- tance than these. The table invites analysis by students of industrial problems, but it would be hazardous to base any conclusions whatever upon it without a careful weighing of special conditions in each state— in some cases the conditions in individual manufacturing cities. LOOMS. Inasmuch as the American cotton manufacturing industry is essentially a weaving as well as a spinning industry, it follows naturally that the number of looms employed keeps pace practically with the corresponding number of spindles. Against an increase of 34 per cent in spindles, during the decade, there has been an increase of 38.7 per cent in the number of looms. In both cases, " cotton goods" only in 1900 are compared with all cotton manufactures, including "cotton small wares " in 1890. The total number of looms in 1900 COTTON MANUFACTURES. 51 was 450,682, compared with 324,866 in 1890. There was a numerical increase of 48,769 in New England, of 1,060 in the Middle states, of 73,744 in the Southern states, and of 2,243 in the Western states. An analysis of the looms as classified in the following table brings out no important facts which are not dedu- cible from other statistics here presented, but it is con- firmatory of the inferences to be drawn from them. For example, it appears from the statement of looms operated upon fancy weaves, that there was an increase of 22,453 in the number of such looms, and that 12,735 of the increase was in New England mills and 7,673 in mills of the Middle states; which is in accordance with the fact of a large increase in the fine spinning and weaving of the one section and of a wonderful growth of the weaving of upholstery and similar goods in Phila- delphia. On the other hand, of the great numerical increase of 73,744 looms in the Southern states, 66,130 represent plain looms of all widths, compared with an increase of 33,621 plain looms in the New England states. It is an interesting fact that the increase in the number of looms in the whole country operated in the weaving of goods more than 36 inches wide exceeds the increase in the number of looms making goods of less width. Table 21.— COTTON GOODS, NUMBER AND CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS, BY GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS: 1890 AND 1900. Year. NDMBER OF LOOMS. GEOGRAPHIC DIVISIONS. Total. On plain cloths. On twills and sateens. On fancy weaves. On tapes and otner narrow goods. > On bags Less than 28 inches wide. 28 to 32 inches wide. 32 to 36 inches wide. 36 inches wide and over. and other special fabrics. 1900 1890 450, 682 324, 866 35,601 23,648 98, 995 91,862 79,349 55,356 126,082 71, 591 58,839 53,726 45, 686 23,233 1,709 4,421 5,450 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 298, 885 250, 116 36,134 35, 074 110,010 36,266 5,653 3,410 16, 765 12, 609 6,442 5,196 12, 374 5,803 20 40 77, 326 72,928 3,023 10,601 17, 930 8,309 716 24 37, 722 35, 063 3,501 3,628 34,446 13, 956 3,680 2,709 84,916 62,508 8,035 5,708 32,323 2,875 808 500 47, 080 46, 346 3,403 4,930 8,356 2,442 31, 635 18,900 10, 031 2,358 3,856 1,975 164 1,586 1,855 1,762 1,576 2,653 725 123 906 265 8 129 ' Included with bags and other special fabrics in 1890. Table 22 presents for 1900 the number and capacity of spinning mills, weaving mills, and mills which do both spinning and weaving, by states geographically arranged. Table 22 furnishes a basis for future comparisons, as well as showing the situation with respect to the opera- tions carried on in the cotton mills of the United States. It will be seen from this table that, of the total number of establishments, more than half both spin and weave. In the matter of capacity the proportion is vastly greater, as 83.6 per cent of the spindles, and 96 per cent of the looms, are installed in what may be termed com- plete mills. Even these large proportions would be increased were the mills of the Middle states eliminated. More than one-third of all the spindles and looms in those states are in mills which spin only, and more than one- third of the looms _in mills which weave only. This circumstance is due to the fact that half the product of New Jersey mills is sewing cotton, and that weaving is the principal feature of the industry in Pennsylvania. Excluding the Middle states, the percentage of spindles in spinning and weaving mills is 85 per cent and that of looms is almost 99 per cent. The figures for the South- ern states indicate a tendency to erect yarn mills. In North Carolina more than two-fifths of the spindles are the equipment of such mills, and the proportion is large in some of the other Southern states also. 52 MANUFACTURES. Table 22.— COTTON GOODS, NUMBER AND CAPACITY OF SPINNING MILLS, WEAVING MILLS, AND MILLS WHICH DO BOTH SPINNING AND "WEAVING, BY STATES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1900. Number of estab- lish- ments. SPINNING AND WEAVING MILLS. SPINNING MILLS. WEAVING MILLS. Number of establish- Number. Capacity. Number. Capacity. Number. Capacity. ments hav- ing no spindles or looms for spinning or weav- ing. Number of spindles. Number of looms. Number of spindles. Number of looms. < United States 973 502 15,882,095 432, 959 274 3, 126, 257 168 17, 723 29 New England states 332 223 11, 233, 326 295, 710 76 1,617,661 17 3,175 16 15 23 5 163 71 55 225 13 20 3 110 44 33 46 837, 021 1, 235, 907 81, 576 6, 712, 998 1, 469, 404 896, 420 1,072,154 23,229 35, 123 2,099 176, 554 39, 366 19, 339 23,724 1 3 2 36 20 14 29 4,500 7,648 18, 452 1,071,689 411,218 104, 154 575, 097 1 137 . Maine New Hampshire 10 3 3 138 2,726 || 7 106 ![ 4 206 'i 5 Middle states 12,410 | 12 34 20 154 3 14 400 14 3 17 2 10 222 626, 040 101,688 168, 810 21, 552 154, 064 3,366,439 14, 110 1,576 4,791 738 2,509 108, 044 7 4 17 1 94,228 330, 042 137, 827 13,000 10 10 114 435 : 3 168 931, 749 10 1,966 1 7 177 80 67 6 17 31 6 2 2 4 16 1 19 7 75 57 42 2 9 18 5 2 2 3 11 126, 827 649, 442 1, 304, 181 652, 611 37, 592 97, 558 325, 560 73, 872 9,700 55,600 33, 4S6 210, 176 4,608 23,992 42, 193 19,393 991 2,995 8,549 2,464 257 1,584 1,018 5,481 94 22 25 4 8 13 1 483,990 127, 168 162, 934 29, 041 26, 338 85,768 1,250 8 1 1,477 470 '| l| 1 1 15,260 1,750 3 172 1 3 4 1 3 2 1 1 1 2 168 || 1 4 1 2 1 1 1 1 102, 488 31,488 21,496 11,904 15,488 17, 312 10, 000 2,712 700 577 356 416 480 240 1 14 1 1 1,750 MEECEKIZATION. During the past ten years the process known as mer- cerizing has been introduced, or, more strictly, rein- troduced, as an adjunct of the cotton manufacturing industry. The process derives its name from its dis- coverer, John Mercer, an Englishman, who was born in 1791 and died in 1864. Mercer was a man of hum- ble origin, by trade a handloom weaver, and self-taught. Entering a print works as an ordinary workman, he became interested in chemical processes, was made experimental chemist to the works, and in a short time introduced several new styles in calico printing. He was the first to prepare sulphated oil, which revolu- tionized the turkey-red industry, was the inventor of the blue-print photographic process, and even devised and improved seveial pharmaceutical preparations. In 1852 he was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society. About the year 1845 or 1846 appeared the first notice of the mercerizing process, and it was patented in 1850. It excited great attention at the first world's fair, in London, in 1851, and great commercial success was anticipated for it; but for various reasons it did not become successful in Mercer's lifetime, nor, in its original form, at any time. The process of mercerizing, proper, consists in treat- ing vegetable fiber, chiefly cotton, in the condition of yarn or of woven goods, to the action of caustic soda dissolved in water, and treating it subsequently with pure water and with dilute sulphuric acid for the pur- pose of washing out or extracting chemically the soda that remains in the yarn or fabric. The process effect- uates both a chemical and a physical change in the con- stitution of the fiber. The wing of the cottonseed is pure cellulose, the chemical symbol of which is C 12 H 20 O 10 — 12 atoms of carbon, 20 of hydrogen, and 10 of oxj^gen. The caustic soda and the water in which it is held in solution unite with the cellulose; but the soda is after- ward removed by washing with water and by "sour- ing" with acid, and that which remains is hydrated cellulose — that is, cellulose combined with water. It is probably not strictly accurate to say that the cellulose and water are chemically combined, since the water con- tained may be removed by drying without restoring the COTTON MANUFACTURES. 53 cellulose to its original condition; but, on the other hand, after the desiccation the mercerized yarn or cloth will reabsorb water from the atmosphere naturally. The structural change in the fiber is a marked one. The filament of cotton is a flattened tube or band, the sides of which are pressed closely together, leaving a central cavity which is enlarged at each edge of the flattened tube. It is opaque, and the surface is not smooth. The fiber has also a slight natural twist. All these characteristics are modified by the mercerizing process. The tube becomes rounded into cylindrical shape; the cavity is made smaller and the walls of the tube thicker; the surface is made smoother and the opacity is diminished; and the fiber acquires a spiral form. These are not the only physical changes intro- duced by the process, for there is a perceptible shrink- age in the length of either yarn or cloth treated by Mercer's formula. As will presently be noticed, the modern method overcomes the shrinkage, but as origi- nally introduced the loss in linear dimension varied from 15 to 25 per cent. Moreover, the weight, and con- sequently the specific gravity, of the yarn or fabric is increased, as is also the strength of the material, this last gain varying from 35 to nearly 70 per cent, accord- ing to the conditions under which the mercerizing is done. Another important result of the process is that mercerized cotton has a much greater affinity for certain dyes and mordants than cotton which has not been so treated. The changes heretofore mentioned were those which Mercer specified in his application for a patent. The chief advantages which he claimed were the greater strength of yarn or cloth and the greater affinity for dyes. These are not the advantages which have caused the reintroduction of the process. Reference has been made to the fact that mercerizing causes a contraction of the fiber and a loss of length. Advantage was taken of the shrinkage to produce crepon effects in cloth, particularly in union cloth, but it was not availed of to any large extent. It has been discovered, however, that if the mercerizing be done under tension — that is, if it be simply held from shrinking, but not stretched, while the material undergoing treatment is immersed in the caustic bath and while the alkali is being removed by water and acid — the fiber becomes more translucent, the surface smoother, and the yarn or woven goods treated acquire a luster similar, and not greatly inferior, to that of silk. The same result can be produced by stretching the material operated upon to its original length immediately after it has been subjected to the caustic bath, and before it has lost its pliable condition. The acquisition of a gloss} 7 appearance by mercerized goods was noticed in the early days of the process, but it is only recently that the increased luster imparted by holding the material from shrinking caused a revival of the manufacture. The improved process in mercerization while the goods are in a state of tension is the subject of pro- tracted patent litigation which has not yet been brought to a decision. The process itself is a simple one, but must be conducted with great care. As applied to yarn it consists in passing it through the bath between rollers which prevent all contraction, and then through the water bath and a weak solution of sulphuric acid under the same conditions. The rollers serve also the pur- pose of squeezing out the caustic, the water, and the acid, and so facilitating and rendering complete the removal of all chemicals which might cause a contrac- tion after the tension is relaxed. The uses to which mercerized material may be put are various. The process has not been applied with success to ordinary upland cotton, but only to Egyptian and sea-island cotton, which are naturally somewhat silky. These are the varieties of cotton which are em- ployed in the production of underwear and the finest of woven goods, which are made much more beautiful by the luster imparted as well as by the brilliancy of the dyeing. It is believed, however, that the fact that mercerized yarn loses something of elasticity in gaining strength, is against its general availability in the manu- facture of hosieiy and knit goods. The amount of yarn mercerized in cotton mills during the census year was 809,468 pounds. In dyeing and finishing establishments 868,851 pounds of yarn and 7,973,506 square yards of cloth were mercerized. The total additional value given to yarn and cloth by mer- cerizing, in all establishments, was $679,490. Table 23 presents a comparative summary of the en- tire industry, cotton goods and cotton small wares, by states and territories, geographically arranged for the several censuses from 1840 to 1900, inclusive; and Table 24 presents the detailed statistics of cotton goods for 1900. 54 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS AND COTTON SMALL WARES, United States. New England states. Year. New Hampshire. Vermont . Massachusetts. f node Island. Connecticut . Middle states. New York . New Jersey. Pennsylvania . 1900 189Q 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1800 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 I860 6 18508 1840 1900 1890 ISM I 1870 1800 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 18110 1850 1840 Number of estab- lish- ments. 1,055 905 756 956 1,091 1,094 1,240 364 402 570 564 674 Capital. 177 187 175 191 217 213 278 87 94 115 139 153 158 209 57 65 82 111 129 128 116 272 239 139 274 340 352 298 52 42 31.1 81 711 25 17 17 27 44 21 43 178 158 59 138 185 ■ins 106 SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. Number. Salaries. $467,240,157 354,020,843 208,280,346 140, 706, 291 98, 585, 269 74,500,931 51,102,359 276,089,821 243, 153, 249 156, 754, 690 100, 103, 770 69,260,279 53, 832, 430 34, 931, 399 21,087,190 20, 850, 754 15, 292, 078 9, 839, 685 6, 018, 325 3,329,700 1, 398, 000 29,261,835 26,801,933 19, 877, 084 13,332,710 12,586,880 10, 950, 500 5, 523, 200 1,932,983 1,431,986 936,096 670, 000 271,200 202, 500 118, 100 156,289,451 128,838,837 72,291,601 44,714,375 33,704,674 28,455,630 17,414,099 40, 150, 824 38, 798, 161 28,047,331 18, 836, 300 10,052,200 6, 675, 000 7,326,000 27, 367, 538 26, 431, 578 20,310,500 12,710,700 6,627,000 4,219,100 3, 152, 000 61, 985, 519 51, 676, 249 31, 014, 759 27,723,306 18, 789, 069 12,970,445 11,583,882 16, 060, 149 13,290,745 11,399,638 8,511,336 5,383,479 4, 176, 920 4, 900, 772 14, 399, 291 13,519,972 3, 807, 750 2, 762, 000 1,320,550 1,483,500 1,722,810 24,331,965 15,884,936 10, 331, 985 12, 550, 720 9, 203, 040 4,528,925 3, 325, 400 4,902 i 2, 709 2,061 1,359 100 80 175 150 $7,350,199 13,464,734 1,104 669 380 256 282 191 198 85 157 51 565 294 3,806,248 2,075,648 231, 815 158, 950 370, 777 186, 880 26, 579 16, 204 2,046,052 1,112,302 734, 465 316, 375 396, 660 284, 937 1,423,138 579, 284 263, 150 115, 699 269, 278 69, 623 741, 923 299, 071 AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Total. Average number. Wages. Men, 16 years and over. 302, 861, 218, 876T 3 174, 659 135, 369 122, 028 92,286 72, 119 164,944 147, 359 127, 185 94,775 81,403 61,893 46,834 13, 723 13, 912 11, 864 9,439 6,764 3,739 1,414 20,454 19, 383 16, 529 12,542 12, 730 12, 122 6,991 1,015 724 735 451 379 241 262 92, 515 76,544 61,844 43,512 38,451 28,730 20, 928 24, 032 24, 576 21, 474 16,745 14,077 10,875 12,086 13, 205 13,220 14, 739 12, 086 9,002 6,186 5,153 37,050 31,841 28, 367 28, 974 29, 078 19, 699 18, 187 9,259 8,316 9,305 9,144 7,659 6,320 7,407 5,681 5,632 4, 222 3,514 2,534 1,712 2,408 17, 011 12, 666 9,957 12, 730 14, 994 7,663 5,522 $86, 689, 752 66, 024, 538 42, 040, 510 39,044,132 23,940,108 b) 56,258,205 47, 832, 943 32, 170, 861 28, 740, 788 16, 720, 920 4, 330, 297 4, 213, 523 2,936,640 2,565,197 1,368,888 6, 759, 422 6, 242, 204 4,290,960 3, 989, 853 2,883,804 259,758 204,538 161,748 125,000 78,468 32, 478, 697 26, 118, 365 15,828,571 13,589,305 7,798,476 8,033,007 7,814,767 6, 320, 303 5, 224, 650 2, 847, 804 Women, 16 years and over. 135, 721 88,837 61, 760 42, 790 46,859 33, 150 ( d ) 79,014 63, 749 46,897 30,203 29,886 20,745 6,197 5,193 3,962 2,606 1,828 780 Children, under 16 years. 126, 882 106, 607 84,558 69, 637 75, 169 59, 136 A 74,882 73, 445 62, 568 50,805 51, 517 41, 148 6,760 7,856 6,481 6,246 4,936 2,959 9,229 8,144 5,235 3,752 3,829 2,911 10, 362 10,346 9,596 7,490 8,901 9,211 438 325 214 125 157 I 94 495 309 350 242 222 147 45,245 33, 101 22, 774 13, 694 13, 691 9,293 41, 298 38,352 31,497 24, 065 24, 760 19,437 4, 397, 024 4,239,546 3, 632, 639 3, 246, 783 1,743,480 10, 980 10,507 8,344 5,583 6,353 4,959 10, 619 10,887 9,199 8,028 7,724 5,916 6,926 6,479 6,368 4,443 4,028 2,708 12, 058, 932 10,184,589 6, 613, 260 7,994,470 6, 464, 772 2, 745, 848 2,448,031 1, 994, 755 2,626,131 1, 405, 292 1,930,940 1,984,659 1, 156, 961 1,009,351 468, 336 15, 012 11,580 9,161 8,466 12, 212 8,274 4,240 3,246 3,012 2,608 3,107 2, 632 5,348 5,696 5,445 4,734 4,974 3,478 17,584 16, 240 13,188 14, 126 16, 866 11,425 6,057,286 4,388,017 2, 502, 688 3,496,986 2, 768, 340 2,144 1,828 1,223 1,086 1,010 616 7,074 4,991 3,413 3,859 6,412 3,564 4,208 4,034 4,201 4,546 4,552 3,688 2, 869 3,391 2, 291 1,745 1,524 1,096 40,258 23,432 28, 341 22,942 l ! ) h 11,048 10, 165 17,720 13, 767 8,120 6,258 4,457 6,097 8,582 4,099 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 24.) 2 Not reported separately. , , "Includes 2,115 officers and clerks for whom no salaries are reported. 766 1,421 587 863 894 1,698 1,300 82 90 171 5,972 4,091 7,573 5,753 2,433 3,182 3,931 3,134 1,045 2,926 2,909 4,454 4,021 6,018 6,382 811 1,036 2,092 1,990 1,817 1,417 2,087 2,774 COTTON MANUFACTURES. BY STATES AND TERRITORIES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1840 TO 1900. 55 MACHINERY. Spindles. 19,050,952 14, 188, 103 10,653,435 7, 132, 415 5, 235, 727 m 2,284,631 12,891,787 10, 836, 155 8, 632, 087 5, 498, 308 3, 858, 902 1,597,394 841, 521 885, 762 695, 924 459, 772 281, 056 29,736 1,243,555 1, 195, 643 944, 053 749, 843 636, 788 195, 173 100, 028 71, 591 55,081 28, 768 17, 600 7,254 7, 784, 687 5,824,518 4,236,084 2,619,541 1,673,498 665, 095 1, 920, 522 1, 924, 486 1, 764, 569 1,043,242 814, 554 518, 817 1,001,474 934, 155 936, 376 597, 142 435,466 181,319 1, 647, 251 1,633,722 1, 391, 164 1,246,045 1,042,480 487, 571 720, 268 606, 796 561,658 492,573 348,584 211,659 431,730 374, 442 232, 221 200, 580 123, 548 63, 744 306, 637 439, 638 425, 391 434,246 476, 979 146, 494 Looms. 455,752 324,866 225,759 157,310 126, 313 302, 018 250,116 184, 701 114, 982 93,344 23,366 21,825 15, 971 9,902 6,877 35,123 31,850 24, 299 19, 091 17, 336 2,099 1,175 1,180 628 362 179, 582 133,227 95, 321 55,343 42,779 42, 298 43, 106 29, 669 18,075 17, 315 19,550 18,933 18, 261 11,943 8,675 38,060 35,074 27,318 34,974 25,185 14,737 13,466 12,403 17,218 7,885 2,276 3,673 3,180 2,176 1,567 17,499 13,974 8,488 12,862 12,994 Miscellaneous expenses. $22,112,678 16, 716, 524 13,286,637 12, 086, 430 1,440,425 1, 185, 336 1,502,420 1, 340, 222 43,282 59,893 7, 275, 111 6, 675, 285 1,736,590 1,871,057 1,288,809 954,637 3, 832, 839 2,088,631 943,848 724, 405 428,384 194,474 2, 057, 143 730, 125 MATERIALS USED. Total cost. 8176, 551, 527 154,912,979 102,206,347 111,736,936 57, 285, 534 34, 835, 056 ( 4 ) 93, 147, 668 101,101,446 74,290,026 78, 816, 481 37, 670, 782 23,800,904 7, 036, 287 8, 446, 736 7, 320, 152 6, 746, 780 3, 319, 335 1, 573, 110 11,960,102 12,962,939 10, 146, 904 12, 318, 867 7, 128, 196 4, 839, 429 526, 235 542,065 508, 297 292, 269 181, 030 114, 415 54, 389, 045 56,586,283 35, 994, 109 37, 371, 599 17,214,592 11, 289, 309 11,697,461 14, 347, 672 12,291,437 13,268,315 5,799,223 3, 484, 579 7,538,538 8,215,751 8, 029, 127 8,818,651 4,028,406 2,500,062 25,280,096 23,044,093 16,191,758 23, 793, 595 13, 928, 671 7, 349, 795 5, 718, 295 5,564,251 4, 652, 745 6, 990, 626 3,061,105 1,985,973 3, 157, 768 3,028,933 2,018,175 1, 964, 758 1, 165, 435 666, 645 13, 176, 718 10, 485, 247 6, 105, 700 10, 724, 052 7, 386, 213 3,152,530 Cotton. Bales. 3, 646, 708 2,261,600 1, 570, 344 641,240 ( 4 ) 1, 829, 678 1, 425, 958 1, 129, 498 430, 603 157,428 132,504 112, 381 31, 531 271,629 214,034 157, 673 83,026 13,048 8,954 7,404 2,243 1, 085, 236 772, 520 574, 857 223, 607 193, 226 193, 291 167, 480 109, 111 104,655 109,703 292, 288 261, 154 228, 729 125, 392 102, 590 78, 824 64,614 37,778 29,644 25,723 21,069 76,425 92, 705 83, 997 44,162 Pounds. 1,817,643,390 1,117,945,776 750, 343, 981 398,308,257 422, 704, 975 ( 4 ) 940, 908, 114 714, 691, 714 541, 373, 880 275, 625, 278 283, 701, 306 79, 765, 573 65, 717, 252 54,185,061 25,887,771 23,733,165 136, 988, 647 107, 319, 124 76,386,499 41,469,719 51, 002, 324 6, 828, 403 4,647,J89 3,562,088 1,235,652 1,447,250 560, 984, 204 386,767,326 273,718,889 130,654,040 134,012,759 99,475,478 97, 982, 165 81, 137, 172 44, 630, 787 41,614,797 56, 865, 809 52, 257, 968 52,384,171 31,747,309 31,891,011 145, 353, 968 128,184,288 109,321,428 80,937,966 87,113,715 52,243,049 39, 522, 057 31, 656, 594 24,783,351 23, 945, 627 15, 287, 868 12, 301, 151 9, 950, 609 7,920,035 9, 094, 649 36,549,533 44, 629, 588 40,311,809 32, 953, 318 37, 496, 203 Cost. * Not reported. 'This item was not fully reported at the census of 1860. •Includes 1 establishment in the District of Columbia which is not shown separately. $125, 169, 616 117, 392, 576 86, 945,725 66, 039, 133 76, 749, 130 63, 169, 434 5, 463, 293 7, 053, 168 6, 234, 901 9, 413, 526 11, 203, 742 8,629,063 432, 455 498, 348 458, 607 38, 916, 998 40, 870, 307 31, 107, 154 7, 386, 339 11, 147, 080 10,457,770 4,426,522 5, 976, 485 6,281,939 10,596,029 13, 906, 748 13,258,526 3,743,267 4, 270, 665 3, 981, 106 1,411,743 1, 816, 468 1,319,422 2,690,532 4,371,693 4, 749, 428 All other ma- terials. $51, 381, 911 37,520,403 15, 260, 622 27, 108, 535 24, 352, 316 11, 120, 592 1,572,994 1, 393, 568 1, 085, 251 2, 546, 576 1,759,197 1, 517, 841 93, 780 43, 717 49, 690 15, 472, 047 15, 715, 976 i, 886, 955 r 4,311,122 3,200,592 1,833,667 ( 4 ) 3,112,016 2,239,266 1, 747, 188 14,684,067 9, 137, 345 2,933,232 1,975,028 1,293,586 671, 639 (?) 1, 746, 025 1,212,465 698, 753 10, 486, 186 6, 113, 554 1,356,272 Value of products. $339, 200, 320 267, 981, 724 192, 090, 110 177, 489, 739 115, 681, 774 61,869,184 46, 350, 453 191, 690, 913 181, 112, 453 143,363,030 124, 959, 053 79, 359, 900 42, 040, 178 31,611,880 14,631,086 15,316,909 13,319,363 11, 844, 181 6,235,623 2,596,356 970, 397 22, 998, 249 21,958,002 17, 953, 403 16,999,672 13,699,994 8,830,619 4,142,304 999, 886 914, 685 855,864 546,510 357, 450 196, 100 113, 000 111,125,175 100, 202, 882 72,289,518 69,493,153 38,004,255 19,712,461 16,553,423 26,435,675 27,310,499 22,875,111 22, 049, 203 12, 151, 191 6,447,120 7,116,792 15, 500, 842 15,409,476 16,069,771 14,026,334 8,911,387 4,257,522 2, 715, 964 48,961,806 40,664,476 29, 389, 286 38,597,765 26, 534, 700 12,782,718 12,222,200 10,788,003 9,777,295 8,266,836 11,178,211 6, 676, 878 3,591,989 3, 640, 237 6, 930, 766 5,902,615 4, 548, 275 4,015,768 2,217,728 1,109,524 2,086,104 25,447,697 18,431,773 11, 021, 054 17, 490, 080 13,650,114 5, 322, 262 5,013,007 56 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS AND COTTON SMALL WARES, Year. Number of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Number. Salaries. Average number. Wages. Middle states — Continued. 1900 1890 1880 1870 I860 1850 1840 ( 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 ( 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900* 1890« 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 3 7 8 6 11 12 11 14 15 19 22 21 25 21 401 239 161 151 165 166 248 7 9 8 11 16 27 22 177 91 49 33 39 28 25 80 34 14 12 17 18 15 68 53 40 34 33 35 19 6 5 3 5 6 8 58 17 20 16 28 30 33 38 31 13 16 13 14 12 14 6 9 8 5 4 2 53 8484,858 1, 683, 803 874, 570 1,165,000 582, 500 460, 100 330, 500 7, 709, 256 7,296,793 4, 600, 816 2,734,250 2, 299, 500 2,321,000 1,304,400 124,596,874 53, 827, 303 17,375,897 11,088,315 9, 840, 221 7,256,056 4,331,078 4,403,206 2, 966, 889 1, 190, 100 1,128,000 1,367,543 1,908,900 1,299,020 33,011,516 10, 775, 134 2, 855, 800 1, 030, 900 1,272,750 1,058,800 995, 300 39, 258, 946 11,141,833 2, 776, 100 1,337,000 801,825 857, 200 617, 450 24, 222, 169 17, 664, 675 6, 348, 657 3,433,265 2, 126, 103 1,736,156 573, 835 1,867,605 1,376,132 360,000 405,000 244, 000 239, 000 316,113 3, 767, 726 2, 928, 657 1, 145, 600 970, 650 965, 000 669, 600 463, 240 11, 638, 757 2, 853, 015 1,246,500 931,000 1,316,000 651,900 35, 575 2, 209, 749 2,053,743 1,122,140 751, 500 230, 000 38,000 6,420 11 16 $15,449 15, 982 372 971 797 726 1,109 838 566 4,727 4,256 4,086 2,860 2,782 3,166 2,284 97, 559 36,415 16,741 10, 173 10, 152 10, 043 6,642 2,931 1,990 1,112 1,741 1,441 2,963 1,816 30, 273 8,515 3,343 1,453 1,755 1,619 1,219 30, 201 8,071 2,053 1,123 891 1,019 570 18, 348 10, 314 6,349 2,846 2,813 2,272 779 1,351 818 352 269 246 402 523 2,108 2,124 1,044 890 899 891 1,542 8, 332 2,088 1,490 1, 032 1,312 715 82 1,675 1,154 722 265 215 36 81 $138, 844 308, 346 192, 727 190, 069 220, 224 108 266 243 225 520 413 222 488 362 286 589 425 42 217 192 215 13 84 57 133, 338 78, 909 1, 186, 014 1, 055, 536 766, 129 671,933 602, 580 1,446 1,249 1, 270 688 1,163 1,049 2,165 2,069 1,877 1,452 1,619 2,117 1,116 938 939 720 14 1,760 75?. 2,013,362 700, 204 17,509,189 7,116,865 2,750,986 1,929,779 1,481,704 40, 555 12, 517 6,056 3,640 4,113 3,886 32,545 15,083 7,587 4,190 6,039 6,167 24, 459 8,815 4,098 2,343 15 32 29 50,387 32, 831 668, 556 373, 993 169, 789 229, 750 260, 856 1,280 563 301 921 694 1,275 1,000 951 630 507 747 1,688 651 476 281 313 16 659 227 586, 730 170, 264 5, 127, 087 1,475,932 439, 659 182, 951 189, 744 12, 780 2,788 875 258 440 442 10, 364 3,656 1,727 916 1,315 1,177 7, 129 2,071 741 279 17 415 121 537, 193 136, 080 5,066,840 1,510,494 380, 844 257,680 123, 300 13, 418 2,849 696 289 342 399 8,673 3,070 772 508 549 620 8,110 2,152 585 326 18 Georgia 338 216 435,201 199, 049 3,574,492 2,167,036 1, 135, 184 611,868 415, 332 7,336 3,849 1,987 1,147 1,131 873 6,512 4,005 2,951 1,080 1,682 1,399 4,500 2,460 1,411 619 19 24 16 33, 761 18, 466 280, 407 170, 573 63,850 57, 951 41,280 430 268 128 77 130 181 591 372 91 71 116 221 330 178 133 121 ■>n 47 50 54,364 50,865 422, 935 444, 573 161,071 178, 156 139, 180 807 670 311 252 323 310 918 997 502 463 576 581 383 457 231 175 •'i , 159 49 197, 700 44, 265 1,482,226 402, 908 239, 998 216, 679 198, 408 3, 152 735 426 303 543 346 2, 743 852 631 445 769 369 2,437 501 433 284 <» 46 30 60, 212 26, 984 339, 546 263, 997 133, 214 61, 833 36,264- 526 450 203 78 106 19 683 398 313 88 109 17 466 306 206 99 2 2 3 2 13, 000 37,000 16, 500 2, 125 64 17 25 31 7 7,339 4,100 4,428 20 8 14 13 17 3 11 18 27 6 1 Not reported separately. 2 Not reported. COTTON MANUFACTURES. BY STATES AND TERRITORIES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1840 TO 1900— Continued. 57 MACHINERY. Spindles. 34, 552 53, 916 46,188 29,534 38,974 24,492 154, 064 158, 930 125, 706 89, 112 54, 395 41,182 4, 299, 988 1,554,000 542, 048 327, 871 298, 551 180, 927 126,827 94,294 44, 340 77,116 49, 440 42,262 1,133,432 337, 786 92, 385 39, 897 41,884 47, 934 1,431,349 332, 781 82, 334 34,940 30, 890 16,365 817,345 445. 452 198, 666 85, 602 85,186 42, 589 66, 633 42, 942 9,022 7, 734 8,192 12,358 123, 896 97, 524 35, 736 27,923 29, 850 16,813 411.328 79, 234 49, 432 28, 046 35, 740 1,502 75 122 57,004 18,568 3,526 6,344 318 Looms. 996 822 771 2,810 2,965 2,425 1,947 1,753 110,015 ' 36,266 11, 898 6,256 6,789 4,608 2,517 1,322 1,310 2,160 Miscellaneous expenses. 26,469 7,254 1,790 618 761 42, 663 8,546 1,676 745 525 19, 398 10, 459 4,493 1,887 2,041 991 677 73 72 76 2,995 2,043 818 313 243 8,549 1,692 863 632 623 2,464 1,352 644 152 90 86,448 85, 149 397, 016 354,478 4,788,860 2, 257, 660 135, 173 102,565 1,030,918 423, 324 1,507,824 528, 208 1,050,088 724, 822 105, 796 60, 200 142, 878 173, 853 511,296 154,893 117, 117 57, 622 MATERIAL8 U8ED. Total cost. $187,919 587,646 527,205 704, 733 570, 102 312,068 3,039,396 3,378,016 2, 887, 933 3,409,426 1,745,816 1, 232, 579 56, 195, 213 27,764,055 9, 999, 145 7, 419, 010 4,954,126 3,332,631 1,412,332 1,199,578 640, 391 937,820 811, 187 828, 375 17, 386, 624 6,239,902 1,463,645 963, 809 622, 363 531, 903 17, 263, 882 6,819,320 1, 808, 300 761,469 431,525 295, 971 11,169,700 7, 832, 230 4,019,673 2, 504, 758 1,466,375 900, 419 972, 244 643, 949 253, 818 375, 048 214, 755 180, 907 1,143,234 1, 765, 162 553, 761 595, 789 384,548 297, 500 4,825,981 1,459,048 783, 711 764, 965 617, 633 237, 081 767, 327 871, 970 337, 149 123, 668 79,800 21, 600 Bales. 2,675 8,876 7, 512 4,730 80,954 55, 026 51, 537 21,285 1,479,006 526, 856 182, 349 78, 140 38, 118 22,731 11,461 17,785 404,535 114,371 27, 642 485, 234 133, 342 33, 624 304, 431 145, 859 71,389 20, 230 23, 982 11, 980 4,050 30, 273 33, 114 10, 436 134, 371 29, 962 14, 702 20, 962 17, 366 6,411 Pounds. 1, 371, 563 4,465,825 3,236,184 2, 587, 615 3,403,000 39,901,955 27,265,667 24, 166, 232 12, 693, 647 13, 174, 236 707,842,111 250, 837, 646 84,528,757 34,351,195 45,786,510 17,832,465 10,616,206 5,087,519 4,255,383 7,544,297 190, 138, 759 63, 546, 289 11, 832, 641 4, 238, 276 5, 540, 738 Cost. 230.053,807 64, 000, 600 15,601,005 4,756,823 3, 978, 061 145, 833, 115 69,139,410 33, 757, 199 10, 921, 176 13, 907, 904 11,971,815 5, 751, 305 1,882,234 1,584,625 1,826,000 15, 040, 336 15, 779, 360 4,944,279 2,872,582 4,072,710 67, 987, 299 14,726,454 7,271,791 3, 249, 523 5,246,800 10, 363, 458 8, 449, 834 2, 881, 853 580, 764 698, 800 $106, 358 475, 490 427,855 2,644,129 2, 972, 432 2, 780, 715 47,071,449 24, 508, 776 1,154,215 1,080,773 601, 796 13,627,720 5, 396, 974 1,125,984 14,929,546 6, 242, 598 1, 723, 187 9, 702, 798 6, 663, 560 3,591,554 770, 363 554, 206 188,856 984, 309 1, 554, 851 508, 305 4,206,721 1, 372, 058 729, 202 623, 576 793, 600 301, 226 All other ma- terials. 81,561 112, 156 99,350 395, 267 405, 584 107, 218 9,123,764 3, 255, 279 1,108,737 258, 117 118, 805 8,595 ( 2 ) 3, 758, 904 842, 928 337, 661 (') (') 2, 334, 336 576, 722 85, 113 1,466,902 1,168,670 428, 119 201, 881 89, 743 64, 962 158, 925 210, 311 45, 456 619, 260 86, 990 54,509 !!) 143, 751 78, 370 35,923 Value of prducts. $372, 089 1,095,001 871, 007 1, 060, 898 941,703 538,439 332, 272 5, 423, 251 5,457,792 4,682,114 4,852,808 3, 048, 277 2, 220, 504 1, 150, 580 95,002,059 41,513,711 16,356,598 11,372,186 8,460,337 6, 464, 488 2,241,595 2,655,002 1,732,648 1,040,962 1,435,800 1,489,971 1,486,384 446, 063 28, 372, 798 9, 563, 443 2,554,482 1, 345, 052 1,046,047 831,342 438, 900 29, 723, 919 9, 800, 798 2, 895, 769 1,529,937 713, 050 748,838 359, 000 18, 544, 910 12,035,629 6,481,894 3, 648, 973 2,371,207 2, 135, 044 304, 342 1, 663, 712 1,000,668 418,286 498, 960 315, 270 273,439 329, 380 1, 994, 935 2, 507, 719 874, 717 941,542 698, 122 510, 624 325, 719 8,153,136 2, 190, 771 1,228,019 1, 088, 767 1, 040, 147 382,260 17,547 1,472,836 1, 333, 398 679, 093 234,445 176, 328 30,500 1,744 2,015 1,125 90 33,305 13, 780 11,600 8,975 170 340,000 66,400 187,500 8 Maryland and the District of Columbia are combined in this table as Middle states for purposes of comparison. • Included in "All other Southern states." ,305 (>) ( 2 ) 50,000 22,562 23,000 16, 637 58 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, COTTON GOODS AND COTTON SMALL WARES, Year. Number of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children under 16 years. Number. Salaries. Average number. Wages. Southern states—Continued. 19001 18901 1880 1870 1860 18504 1840 1900 18901 1880 1870 1860 18504 18404 f 19005 1890 1880 1S704 1860 1850 18404 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 f 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860- 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 18704 18604 18504 . 1840 19008 1890 1880 1870 1860 18504 18404 f 19008 18908 1880 1870 1860 1850 18404 f 19004 18904 1880 1870 1860 18504 18404 ( 1900 1890 i 1880 1870 I 18604 2 4 2 $195,000 592,000 1,000,000 108 246 360 $12, 572 60,600 49, 440 123 220 57 140 66 *>5 I Texas < j 2 4 , 22,000 2, 227, 184 23 984 21 $31,388 253, 630 497 302 185 2 4 1 50,000 496, 000 450, 000 71 291 130 2,466 68, 211 15, 600 45 184 130 52 55 5 5 1 .1,990,016 2,067,225 11,000 19 15 26,426 21,400 1,356 1,341 33 293, 470 307, 359 5,000 329 345 21 759 782 2 268 214 10 27 i 1 ( 5 ) 30, 000 80, 000 65 95 7,872 40 28 67 18 25 17 23 16 12 20 4 7 4 7 8 8 8 5 6 4 4 2 2 12 3 4 1 4, 567, 943 5, 364, 042 3, 135, 000 1,790,900 695, 700 442,000 256, 000 172, 661 1, 213, 217 670, 000 555,700 265, 000 297, 000 113,500 1, 679, 741 1, 744, 720 1, 090, 000 551,500 251, 000 43,000 142, 500 467,808 892, 509 200,000 66 94 107, 451 109, 598 3,308 3,261 2,366 1,447 1,395 651 456 109 554 484 462 840 401 246 1,428 1,309 720 504 367 95 210 347 490 271 863, 426 890, 141 505, 403 379, 095 272, 712 1,140 991 646 481 648 245 1,871 1,839 1,215 516 747 406 297 431 505 450 13 30 11, 666 32, 144 29, 076 161, 613 104, 500 113, 520 151, 164 27 235 126 216 372 132 82 312 321 147 468 269 7 37 99 i 19 16 34,964 22,334 325, 749 310, 342 162, 829 113,200 84,888 377 325 205 119 177 38 1,001 749 391 179 190 57 50 235 124 206 5 11 5,220 11, 300 80,567 131, 170 67, 209 131 198 66 191 239 149 25 53 56 4 2 5 3 766, 405 240,000 151,000 4,700 24 26,400 430 237 98 11 123, 986 47,885 25,500 2,640 112 66 26 10 280 89 31 1 38 82 41 3 3 2 2 890, 000 489, 200 169, 000 102, 000 515 361 170 155 97, 680 120, 300 30, 600 127 107 85 75 207 154 85 80 181 100 1 3 1 20,000 42,000 6,000 29 16 7 2,100 6,300 3,420 16 10 4 8 2 3 4 M 6 4 2 1 2, 247, 733 747, 191 25,000 1,500 29 13 55, 601 17, 420 1,424 478 110 6 428, 034 163, 030 23, 200 275 605 121 40 3 597 259 50 3 222 98 20 ilncludedin "all other Southern states." 2 Not reported separately. 3Not reported. < No establishments reported. s Includes states grouped in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishmentsare distributed as follows- 1900, Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. 1890, Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; Texas, 1. 1880, Florida, 1. 1860, Florida, 1. 1850, Florida, number of establishments not reported. COTTON MANUFACTURES. BY STATES AND TERRITORIES GEOGRAPHICALLY ARRANGED: 1840 TO 1900— Continued. 59 MACHINERY. Spindles. Looms. Miscellaneous expenses. MATERIAL U8ED. Total cost. Cotton. Bales. Pounds. Cost. All other ma- terials. Value of products. 6,096 13,084 6,725 706 48, 756 120 292 150 1,018 872,470 161,485 226, 600 1,358 644,000 748, 525 1,995,700 868, 018 $113, 156 18, 045 9, 304, 434 566, 517 "ii,'280 74,824 86, 776 251,550 466, 500 18,900 2,648 8,878 2,700 65, 300 66, 980 816 211, 926 164, 226 88,136 60, 191 35,734 18. 739 16,560 13, 328 23,240 19, 664 13, 754 102,488 74, 604 33, 396 17, 360 11,000 4,985 21, 496 32,592 10,000 71 235 100 1,860 1,726 5,659 3,410 1,842 1,098 995 164 40 42 208 540 2,712 1,649 776 448 375 591 870 400 14, 827 216, 519 64,140 246 119, 986 1,077,118 588, 000 74, 614 32, 173 612, 548 932, 896 18, 095 19,055 18, 131 350 23, 600 30,000 9, 316, 623 8,828,188 166, 250 "•200,' 666' 505, 684 850,156 16, 000 204,342 283, 803 1, 928, 550 3, 003, 385 01,725,418 1, 707, 850 731,955 351,726 45, 736 47, 632 29, 768 7,105 23, 539, 197 24, 232, 128 15, 119, 916 7, 393, 818 6, 103, 444 1,463,005 2, 227, 922 "1,627,357 18, 214 106, 399 144,043 903, 446 286, 692 493, 704 374, 100 237, 060 11,023 5,323 5, 840, 078 2,506,182 2, 226, 400 3, 192, 500 383, 556 258,198 72,888 73,941 702, 497 919, 566 '651,434 542, 875 229, 925 28, 220 19,884 16, 306 11, 558 675 10, 283, 614 8, 240, 434 6,364,887 2, 070, 318 1,813,944 608,822 798, 178 '679,911 13, 992 62, 477 172, 267 382, 833 194, 556 4,565 6,924 3,173 2, 316, 727 3,470,388 1,541,797 145, 773 359, 117 180, 072 •3,547 106,864 82, 740 2,095 465, 545 775, 463 «126,538 I 144,043 519,890 28,494 93, 675 121, 388 26,494 23,716 14,484 21,600 374, 598 80, 695 1,220,822 1, 348, 637 25,000 40, 000 49, 920 3, 545, 542 4, 691, 084 •2,981,196 2,560,735 1,326,837 581, 800 274, 778 236, 885 1,468,204 637, 000 681, 835 723, 500 394, 700 139, 378 1,341,597 1,350,425 1,155,029 778,047 344,350 44,200 135, 400 316,061 620, 196 328,389 21,800 4,860 1,856 465 24 16 337, 773 142,183 177, 525 11, 930 6, 405 2,261 3, 267, 188 1, 099, 130 857, 000 95, 000 312, 621 110, 969 25,152 31, 214 663, 988 219,861 279,000 18, 987 19, 312 16,715 5,000 431 415 ■HO 376, 081 481,745 110, 000 86,446 3, 082, 132 2, 196, 600 990, 000 39, 097 522, 980 798, 050 230, 000 142, 900 432 1,020 70 87, 942 18, 670 2,192 386 155 3,472 7,051 6,000 25,788 23,500 12, 000 3,223 99, 248 32, 000 909, 743 459, 767 71,000 4,950 21,287 6,974 1,000 10, 938, 856 3,414,040 600, 000 20,000 708, 410 374, 450 68, 000 249 201, 333 85,317 13,000 7,937 16, 803 10, 000 1,660,999 688,271 110, 000 7,000 The error referred to in note 7 is also contained in this total. ' Owing to error in the published statistics for 1880 the cost of cotton in Indiana is shown to be in excess of the total cost of all materials used. 'Included in "all other Western states." "Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900, California, 1; Colorado, 1; Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. 1890, California, 1; Iowa, 2; Missouri, 1 1880, Michigan, 1; Minnesota, 1. 1870, Iowa, 1. 60 MANUFACTURES. Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. CHARACTER OF ORGANIZATION. CAPITAL. 3TATES. Indi- vidual. Firm and limited partner- ship. Incorpo- rated company. Total. Land. Buildings. Machinery, tools, and implements. Cash on hand, bills re- ceivable, un- settled ledger accounts, raw materials, stock in proc- ess of manu- facture, fin- ished prod- ucts on hand, and other sundries. 973 142 123 708 $460, 842, 772 $22,546,549 | $91,621,757 $181, 009, 280 BlfiR.fifift.lM 332 36 22 274 272, 668, 914 14,820,308 I 55,523,593 99, 093, 175 103, 231, 838 15 23 5 163 71 55 225 15 20 5 138 58 38 70 21,087,190 29, 261, 835 1, 932, 983 155, 761, 193 37, 274, 125 27, 351, 588 59, 078, 820 988, 306 3. 498. 246 7, 988, 603 10,007,368 796, 312 67, 928, 100 12,065,017 10,307,775 20, 779, 919 8, 612, 035 2 1 1, 302, 874 188, 754 8, 716, 746 2,791,426 832, 202 3, 277, 033 4,375,217 451,745 30, 066, 848 10, 352, 863 6, 778, 674 11.327.917 13, 576, 376 Vermont 496, 172 14 8 12 75 11' 5 5 80 59, 049, 499 12,064,819 9, 432, 937 23, 693, 951 34 20 154 3 14 400 12 4 56 6 4 68 16 12 30 3 9 352 14,509,211 13, 989, 374 22, 386, 121 484, 858 7, 709, 256 124, 532, 864 740, 927 800, 018 1,193,575 27,000 515, 513 4,250,540 3,621,305 2, 888, 476 3, 364, 273 98, 260 1,355,603 23,741,094 5,341,881 5, 128, 363 8, 152, 753 205, 789 1,951,133 59, 179, 798 4,805,098 5, 172, 517 9,675,520 153,809 3,887,007 37,361,432 3 30 2 18 7 177 80 67 31 6 4 6 17 5 16 7 149 75 59 31 5 4 6 13 3 12 4, 403, 206 33,011,516 39, 258, 946 24,158,159 11, 638, 757 2, 209, 749 2, 227, 184 1,867,605 3, 767, 726 1,990,016 4, 562, 174 108, 559 1, 395, 341 805, 742 1,166,237 327, 152 46, 014 64, 869 77,016 152, 243 107, 367 198, 668 784, 481 6, 848, 808 7, 705, 755 4,701,906 2, 364, 991 438, 105 373, 234 273, 428 891,197 359, 189 1,029,153 21, 600~ 373, 097 75, 750 558, 706 2,236,136 16,290,457 18, 748, 418 10, 828, 803 5, 198, 990 1,050,665 922, 991 869, 363 1,832,928 1,201,047 1, 956, 388 1, 274, 030 9, 476, 910 11,999,031 7,461,213 3, 747, 624 674, 965 866, 090 647 798 16 4 7 12 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 3 891, 358 322,413 1, 377, 965 All other Southern states ] Ohio 3 4 3 6 1 1 1 1 1 3 2 6 168,492 1,678,141 467, 808 2, 247, 733 700 60, 900 34, 250 102, 818 56, 813 715, 980 185, 900 997, 695 89, 379 528, 164 171,908 588, 514 Proprie- tors and firm members. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. STATES. Total number. Total salaries. Officers of corporations. General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. Number. Salaries. Total number. Total salaries. Men. Women. Number. Salaries. Number. Salaries, United States 389 4,713 87, 123, 574 1,179 83,034,116 3,534 $4,089,458 3,220 83,959,165 314 $130, 293 72 1,988 3,705,238 412 1,561,045 1,676 2, 144, 193 1,402 2,068,702 174 75, 491 1 100 175 20 1,080 332 281 907 231,816 370, 777 26, 579 2,013,902 666, 541 395, 624 1,303,339 33 35 8 220 68 48 127 124,500 126, 650 11, 500 951,380 218, 384 128, 631 410,147 67 140 12 860 264 233 780 107, 315 244, 127 15,079 1,062,522 448, 157 266, 993 893, 192 63 129 12 733 253 212 706 105, 515 238, 457 15,079 1, 009, 543 442, 521 257,587 862, 481 4 11 1,800 5,670 Vermont 37 15 19 249 127 11 21 74 52, 979 5,636 9,406 30,711 25 ]() 207 156 141 515 11 84 1,754 226, 701 250, 548 677, 303 15,449 133,338 2, 008, 662 31 17 64 1 14 618 79, 380 73,425 192, 361 6,000 58,981 1,016,324 125 124 451 10 70 1,136 147,321 177, 123 484, 942 9,449 74,357 993, 338 114 119 394 10 69 1,073 143, 025 174, 966 460, 984 9,449 74,057 970, 471 11 5 57 4,296 2,157 23,958 7 62 1 63 300 22, 867 32 659 415 332 159 46 21 24 47 19 64 50, 387 586, 730 537, 193 430, 501 197, 700 60, 212 31,388 33, 761 54,364 26, 426 106, 335 16 248 133 111 66 10 7 9 25 4 22 29, 065 288, 574 286, 320 206, 274 102, 971 18, 600 17,503 17,800 37, 517 10,700 47, 600 17 411 282 221 103 36 14 16 22 15 42 21, 322 298, 156 250,873 224, 227 94, 729 41, 612 13, 885 15, 961 16,847 15, 726 58, 735 17 395 262 204 98 35 13 15 21 13 39 21,322 293, 155 243, 733 217,386 93, 049 40, 892 13,285 15, 961 16, 607 15,081 57, 511 41 5 10 16 20 17 5 1 1 5,001 7,140 6,841 1,680 720 600 2 3 1 6 1 2 3 240 645 1,224 All other Southern states 1 Ohio 1 3 2 12 18 5 29 11,260 34,264 5,220 55, 601 3 8 2 9 4,200 19,900 , 2, 500 21,000 9 10 3 7,050 14,364 2,720 8 9 3 19 6,790 14,000 2,720 1 1 260 364 Wisconsin 1 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado 1- Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. ' COTTON MANUFACTURES. 61 Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMAEY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS, AND TOTAL WAGES. STATES. Greatest number employed at any one time dur- ing the year. Least number employed at any one time dur- ing the year. Average number. Total wages. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children under 16 years. Average number. Wages. Average number. Wages. Average number. Wages. 323,913 275, 369 297, 929 885,126,310 134, 354 $46, 923, 365 123, 709 532,917,933 39, 866 $5, 285, 012 173,562 149,814 162, 294 55,367,541 78, 217 31, 083, 393 73,258 22,236,019 10, 819 2, 048, 129 14, 262 21, 325 1,226 99,001 23,272 14, 476 38,309 13, 378 19, 542 901 82, 991 20, 484 12,518 31,912 13, 723 20,454 1,015 92,085 21,823 13,194 34,843 4,330,297 6, 759, 422 259,758 32,327,443 7,297,119 4, 393, 502 11, 396, 710 6,197 9,229 438 45, 105 10, 330 6,918 14, 473 2, 342, 275 3,599,509 131,465 18, 298, 457 4,062,540 2, 649, 147 6, 132, 776 6,760 10, 362 495 41, 057 9,240 5,344 16, 056 1, 864, 335 2,996,626 114, 375 12, 855, 112 2, 813, 883 1,591,688 4, 689, 949 766 863 82 5,923 2,253 932 4,314 123, 687 163, 287 13, 918 1,173,874 420, 696 152 667 Middle states 673, 985 9,341 5,980 17,328 629 5,031 108, 506 8,202 5,166 13, 833 204 4,507 90, 528 8,659 5,518 15, 567 372 4,727 97, 494 2, 582, 394 1,887,119 5, 602, 339 138, 844 1, 186, 014 17,501,648 4,094 2,088 6,737 108 1,446 40, 528 1,412,902 1,002,178 3, 149, 455 58, 885 509, 356 9, 320, 597 3,761 2,789 7,119 222 2,165 32, 528 1,024,845 792,990 2,194,413 67, 700 ■ 510, 001 5, 669, 916 804 641 1,711 42 1,116 24,438 144,647 91,951 258, 471 12,259 166,657 2,511,135 3,078 33, 621 33, 298 20, 494 9,553 1,877 1,290 1,431 2,485 1,379 3,536 2,746 28, 256 27, 678 17,023 7,519 1,432 1,094 1,250 2,190 1,340 3,115 2,931 30, 273 30, 201 18, 283 8,332 1,675 984 1,351 2, 108 1,356 3,298 668, 556 5, 127, 087 5,066,840 3, 566, 951 1,482,226 339, 546 253,630 280, 407 422, 935 293, 470 860, 411 1,280 12, 780 13, 418 7,309 3,162 526 497 430 807 329 1,136 392,540 2, 765, 457 2, 785, 285 1,815,126 789, 225 153, 859 164, 325 126, 130 214, 140 114, 510 386, 599 1,000 10,364 8,673 6,495 2,743 683 302 591 918 759 1,867 202, 906 1,629,036 1,477,621 1,270,434 463, 244 128, 209 64,997 116,081 168, 135 149, 253 422,049 651 7,129 8,110 4,479 2,437 466 185 330 383 268 295 73, 110 732, 594 803, 934 481, 391 229, 757 57, 478 24, 308 38,196 40,660 All other Southern states 1 . 29, 707 51, 763 117 1,537 387 1,495 80 1,358 315 1,362 106 1,421 347 1,424 27, 861 323, 949 80, 567 428, 034 24 376 131 605 11,482 123, 259 39, 170 212, 688 82 997 191 597 16, 379 195, 150 38, 750 171,770 48 25 222 5,540 2,647 All other Western states 1 . 43, 576 WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS, AND TOTAL WAGES. STATES. Men, 16 r ears and over. January. February. March. April. May. June. July. August. September. October. November. December. 134, 94l' 135, 497 136,254 134, 684 135,549 133, 099 132, 151 129, 830 133, 139 134, 265 135, 622 137, 217 77,972 78, 428 78, 951 78, 674 78,236 77, 906 77, 583 75, 649 78, 042 78,288 78,894 79, 977 6,212 9,156 421 44, 990 10, 287 6,906 14, 607 6,243 9,219 457 45, 219 10, 341 6,949 14, 608 6,253 9,259 435 45, 596 10,481 6,927 14, 719 6,260 9,259 437 45, 623 10, 460 6,735 13, 760 6,186 9,096 418 45, 428 10, 389 6,719 14, 682 6,177 9,141 429 45, 138 10, 279 6,742 14,384 6,158 9, 142 448 44, 758 10, 280 6,797 14, 293 6,131 9, 125 425 42, 955 10, 178 6,835 14, 265 6,105 9,235 427 45,110 10,214 6,951 14,472 6,165 9, 280 431 45, 127 10,233 7,052 14, 584 6,197 9,407 458 45, 336 10, 302 7,194 14, 694 6,274 9,431 468 46, 082 10, 510 7,212 14, 620 4.099 2,051 6,872 129 1,456 41, 248 4,182 1,959 6,917 112 1,438 41,327 4,193 2,103 6,813 158 1,452 41.432 4,155 2,089 5,849 189 1,478 41, 115 4,115 2,116 6,814 191 1,446 41,462 4,054 2,051 6,785 37 1,457 39, 689 3,934 2,095 6, 745 61 1, 458 39, 161 3,942 2,082 6,722 65 1,454 38, 797 3,966 2,071 6,919 80 1,436 39,488 4,134 2, 140 6,814 S3 1,413 40, 254 4,167 2,159 6,847 94 1,427 40,889 4,192 2,142 6,749 102 1,435 41, 468 1,249 12, 921 13, 961 7,240 3, :i20 461 489 433 844 330 1,114 1,251 12,813 13,810 7,596 3,308 490 484 411 838 326 1,134 1,254 12,813 13, 946 7,516 3,308 492 488 442 842 331 1,152 1,262 12, 998 13,240 7,753 3,259 507 488 424 853 331 1,135 1,268 13, 186 13, 372 7,652 3,268 498 574 415 898 331 1,169 1,283 12, 655 13, 044 7,225 2,893 484 583 430 763 329 1, 120 1,287 12, 435 13, 025 6, 993 2,873 539 474 437 766 332 1,114 1,295 12, 231 12, 905 6,863 2,949 550 178 433 767 326 1,119 1,304 12, 632 13, 056 7,007 2,910 573 471 432 760 313 1,137 1,298 12, 752 13,283 7,233 3,081 570 474 450 781 332 1,139 1,308 12, 874 13, 569 7, 268 3,290 574 474 425 776 331 1,145 1,305 13, 057 13,802 Georgia 7, 359 3, 334 576 483 427 Tennessee Allother Southern states 1 . 793 332 1,152 Ohio 18 373 124 599 23 385 127 599 23 401 138 590 23 389 136 689 23 410 137 599 23 360 140 597 25 359 130 600 365 127 602 25 366 128 618 25 366 128 620 25 369 129 622 25 369 131 All other Western states l . 627 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado, 1; 62 MANUFACTURES. Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS, AND TOTAL WAGES — Continued. STATES. SVomen, 16 years and over. January. February. March. April. May. June. July. August. September. October. November. December. 124,486 124, 952 125,805 125,285 124,780 122, 513 121,292 119, 108 121, 370 123, 746 124, 998 126,173 73, 490 73,566 74, 295 73,859 73,384 72,920 72, 639 70, 700 71,964 73,362 74,012 74, 909 6,793 10,268 467 41,344 9,228 5,390 16,227 6,801 10,375 500 41,221 9,228 5,441 16,239 6, 697 10, 576 503 41,870 9,291 5,358 16,287 6,791 10,418 529 41, 692 9,258 5,171 16,258 6,741 10,215 514 41,671 9,260 6,083 16,281 6,673 10,025 494 41,388 9,163 5,177 15, 952 6,687 10,349 504 40, 706 9,201 5,192 15, 655 6,710 10,345 490 38,742 9,149 5,264 15, 637 6,727 10,354 487 39,819 9,191 5,386 15, 879 6,781 10,448 476 40, 894 9,251 5,512 15, 999 6,832 10,483 491 41,384 9,246 5,676 16, 160 6,892 10,484 486 42, 057 9,417 5,573 16,098 3,782 2,805 7,219 251 2,170 32,950 3,827 2,747 7,215 294 2,156 33,287 3,847 2,808 7,156 329 2,147 33, 336 3,856 2,757 7,121 345 2,179 33,239 3,798 2,788 7,175 348 2,172 '33,175 3,798 2,782 7,089 98 2,185 31,823 3,598 2,775 6,983 116 2,184 31, 170 3,650 2,740 7,014 149 2,184 30,933 3,580 2,775 7,185 171 2,168 31,658 3,772 2,807 7,095 173 2,152 32,512 3,827 2,856 7,147 188 2,142 32, 959 3,891 2,825 7,031 206 2,145 33,277 898 10,620 8,990 6,405 2,869 591 294 585 944 754 1,819 921 10,453 8,920 6,859 2,907 626 290 602 952 767 1,860 942 10,638 8,983 6,669 2,931 626 286 560 949 752 1,887 1,016 10,634 8,636 6,806 2,880 636 282 604 993 762 1,929 1,023 10,673 8,606 6,690 2,902 633 394 593 995 766 1,940 1,028 10,289 8,426 6,331 2,508 617 388 595 875 766 1,818 1,012 9,893 8,498 6,078 2,470 713 284 603 853 766 1,828 1,010 9,803 8,301 6,081 2,496 735 280 591 874 762 1,838 1,028 10,081 8,500 6,299 2,553 743 275 573 864 742 1,869 1,045 10,339 8,667 6,525 2,665 753 277 579 908 754 1,873 1,032 10,458 8,707 6,616 2,833 758 285 605 905 760 1,867 1,042 10,589 8,838 6,581 2,903 759 284 604 909 All other Southern states 1 768 1,889 Ohio 62 989 185 583 75 1,013 184 588 76 1,035 193 583 85 1,069 191 584 83 1,079 186 592 80 952 196 590 87 955 190 696 84 962 193 599 88 979 194 608 89 980 193 611 92 961 194 620 89 986 195 All other Western states 1 . 619 WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS, AND TOTAL WAGE8 — Continued. STATES. Children, under 16 years. January. February. March. April. May. June. July. August. September. October. November. December. 40,676 40, 363 40,646 40, 137 40, 460 39,229 38,737 38,463 39,046 39,664 40,330 40,651 10, 972 10, 788 10, 877 10, 744 10, 722 10, 766 10, 768 10,663 10, 789 10, 780 10, 979 10, 980 765 866 79 6,101 2,247 914 4,358 758 867 82 5,902 2,250 929 4,283 768 879 92 5,914 2,307 917 4,343 761 864 80 5,877 2,237 925 4,298 753 849 87 5,881 2,241 911 4,340 782 863 87 5,860 2,248 926 4,218 790 856 79 5,842 2,263 938 4,232 784 859 80 5,713 2,279 948 4,270 766 845 85 5,955 2,223 925 4,307 749 856 78 5,950 2,197 950 4,367 755 873 83 6,028 2,278 962 4,415 78 6,053 2,263 4,329 798 629 1,751 57 1,123 25,063 807 583 1,724 61 1,108 25,008 819 625 1,741 60 1,098 25,144 793 622 1,704 75 1,104 24,810 794 642 1,703 80 1,121 25, 104 800 643 1,637 20 1,118 23,958 785 664 1,641 20 ' 1, 122 23, 443 767 670 1,658 20 1,155 23, 236 779 662 1,723 20 1,123 23,637 807 645 1,782 27 1,106 24, 205 859 661 1,764 26 1,105 24, 624 840 651 1,701 32 1,105 25, 032 626 7,378 8,352 4,599 2,504 412 178 336 414 264 283 628 7,269 8,224 4,723 2,631 443 179 340 405 266 284 644 7,391 8,297 4,683 2,508 438 185 317 404 277 282 654 7,410 7,942 4,704 2,461 444 168 331 425 271 285 665 7,463 8,043 4,730 2,483 442 244 328 433 273 284 672 6,991 7,870 4,446 2,337 427 267 318 354 276 287 644 6,736 7,901 4,243 2,325 469 186 315 353 271 294 651 6,644 7,878 4,124 2,319 489 165 330 362 274 294 648 6,909 7,984 4,181 2,306 501 161 341 351 255 313 660 7,040 8,140 4,360 2,371 511 156 329 363 275 312 659 7,160 8,273 4,459 2,437 507 165 337 365 262 312 659 7,153 8,420 4,501 2,662 510 169 332 369 257 310 All other Southern states 1 48 25 210 48 25 211 48 25 209 48 25 212 48 25 211 48 25 214 48 25 221 48 25 221 48 25 240 48 25 239 48 25 239 48 25 237 All other Western states l 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states — Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado, 1; COTTON MANUFACTURES. 63 Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. SKILLED OPERATIVES BY CLASSES. (AVERAGE NUMBER.) MACHINERY. STATES. Spinners, mule. Spinners, frame. Weavers. Producing spindles. (Not including twisting and doubling spindles.) Men, 16 years an< over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children under 16 years. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 Total number, years. Mule. Frame. Number. Number. 5,328 108 663 7,323 19, 171 16, 513 41, 776 47, 941 1,798 19,008,352 5,563,480 13,444,872 3,973 40 277 3,013 10, 640 2,477 23,656 28,804 590 12, 850, 987 4, 477, 199 8, 373, 788 240 362 37 2,245 748 351 1,005 48 52 198 283 11 1,918 326 277 595 1,081 1,618 41 6,269 1,024 617 1,356 193 354 18 1,110 566 230 751 1,945 1,933 86 14,038 3,632 2,022 4,670 2,600 4,501 146 16,557 3,404 1,596 6,085 841,521 1,243,655 100,028 7, 784, 687 1,880,622 1,000,674 1,647,261 266,948 287,165 43, 316 2,556,316 940,328 393, 126 858,675 684,573 956, 390 56,712 5,228,371 940,294 607,448 788, 676 36 7 511 27 9 121 40 92 46 39 130 10 576 194 235 9 55 2 73 295 18 191 37 54 3,692 392 77 395 105 367 6,780 295 64 226 7 169 13, 173 877 373 3,180 33 207 13,247 1,855 245 3,001 141 843 12,202 7 720,268 431,730 306, 637 34,552 154,064 4,298,188 367, 136 367, 092 124, 447 353,132 64,638 1 78 182, 190 34,652 36 1,076 154,064 4,117,654 305 58 150 180,534 8 42 45 128 49 1 120 1,392 1,347 372 207 10 86 17 112 29 23 176 2,624 1,984 873 460 136 35 108 217 177 395 424 4,241 4,913 2,571 330 165 61 89 223 156 112 441 3,739 5,343 2,196 936 105 114 27 317 29 203 573 3,265 3,641 2,577 738 319 98 214 363 424 850 12 243 594 90 44 56 126,827 1,133,432 1,431,349 815, 545 411,328 75,122 48, 756 66,633 123,896 66,300 211,926 2,325 35, 352 10, 752 84,926 8,000 124,502 1,098,080 1,420,697 16 6 84 17 730,619 42 403, 328 75,122 48,756 15 18 10 32 5 19 13 11 18,399 20, 780 48,234 103, 116 65,300 164,854 45 6 47,072 3 1 43 156 17 485 67 281 17 4 24 2 19 2 186 28 181 10 5 97 4 102,488 21,496 87,942 ifi, 320 2,816 27, 936 86,168 18,680 60,006 6 7 machinery — continued. MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. Looms. Total amount. Rent of works. Taxes. Rent of offices, in- surance, in- terest, etc. Total number. On plain cloths. On twills and sateens On fancy weaves. On tapes and other narrow goods. On bags and other special fabrics. STATES. Less than 28 inches wide. From 28 to 32 inches wide. From 32 to 36 inches wide, inclu- sive. More than 36 inches wide. Contract work. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Num- ber. Amount. Amount. Amount. Amount. 450, 682 35,601 98, 995 79,349 126,082 58,839 45,686 1,709 4,421 1,856 521,650,144 $691,075 83,521,606 815,844,509 81,592,954 298,885 16, 765 77, 326 37, 722 84,916 47,080 31,635 1,586 13, 098, 849 1, 440, 426 1, 502, 420 43,282 7,243,357 1,680,869 1,288,506 3, 567, 960 497,826 2, 585, 232 9, 247, 640 768, 151 23,366 35,123 2,099 179, 280 39, 472 19,545 36, 134 2,005 214 1,653 11, 079 1,719 95 6,442 5,226 14,528 430 61, 177 2,222 3,744 3,023 2,581 6,265 9,176 7,799 16 39,415 19,581 8,930 8,035 2,018 5,627 1,428 335 934 355. 8,600 1,500 242,230 314,357 5,650 1,654,300 240, 778 127,917 279, 546 788, 375 1,173,856 37, 632 6,391,813 763, 537 1,092,427 2, 385, 463 406,220 New Hampshire 12, 707 25,336 2,567 973 3,501 28, 213 7,852 3,370 3,403 23, 748 3,945 2,179 10, 031 1,586 123 312 13, 714 464, 454 14,558 180, 147 183, 530 112, 090 254 1,576 63,604 722, 804 14,545 2,226 15, 815 738 2,810 110, 010 5,476 278 406 939 104 1,456 1,696 13 1,025 6,040 324 1,541 238 •892 32, 323 1,050 660 1,666 37 8,356 156 655 8,476 500 244 3,866 6 78 183 192 1,157 909,361 403, 119 1,852,026 6,448 397, 016 4, 780, 635 24, 943 5,685 141,464 136, 327 55,078 52, 863 1,761 34, 517 630, 340 579, 833 338, 732 1,107,867 4,687 354,344 4, 040, 818 169,248 3, 724 649, 832 282 12,374 524 17,930 768 34, 446 39 24 725 8,165 7,478 101,999 4,608 26, 469 42, 663 19,393 8,549 2,464 1,018 991 2,995 1,860 6,653 2,258 7,241 2,171 316 36 157 3,305 5,664 4,409 1,866 1,094 498 893 3,264 15,939 6,652 3,441 734 204 916 1,366 1,037 3,680 713 7,111 15, 040 6,261 2,663 389 1,499 3,729 1,163 183 636 244 198 2,735 100 463 360 136, 173 1,030,918 1, 607, 824 1, 041, 863 511, 296 117, 117 113, 166 105, 796 142,878 74, 614 202,700 1,800 2,775 24, 620 135, 963 206, 365 178, 564 42,809 12, 367 6,105 9,843 12,468 1,246 26,488 108, 753 865, 958 1, 267, 597 831, 920 468, 487 104,375 107, 051 83,349 129,960 73,368 170, 588 314 20 129 26,222 33,872 31, 379 375 72 75 96 19 265 2,078 450 10, 526 362 20 608 329 716 260 275 808 313 200 All other Southern states * 164 5,624 158 2,712 591 2,192 5 1,989 577 1,109 2 200 151 17,812 71,648 13,992 99 94R 4,844 1,728 12, 455 3,934 8.371 11,240 69, 193 10,058 90,097 523 14 100 All other Western states i 20 193 606 164 780 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states — Arkansas, 2; Illinois. 1; Missouri. 2; Nebraska, 1. Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states — California, 1: Colorado, 1; 64 MANUFACTURES. Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. MATERIALS USED. Total cost. Cotton. Sea island. Other domestic. Egyptian and other foreign. Bales. Pounds. Cost. Bales. Pounds. Cost. Bales. Pounds. Cost. United States $173,441,390 47,207 18,442,634 82,725,023 3,516,080 1,739,714,946 $116, 108, 879 76, 208 55, 844, 932 $6,071,173 91,727,594 36, 674 14, 416, 364 2,133,804 1,719,622 874,011,257 58,329,174 66,464 48, 977, 406 5, 321, 948 7,036,287 11,960,102 526, 235 54,068,038 10,601,006 7, 535, 926 23, 650, 270 156, 674 271, 262 12, 493 1,015,305 170, 514 93, 374 272, 947 79, 212, 256 136, 805, 127 6, 410, 674 517, 088, 846 86, 712, 235 47, 782, 119 135, 004, 971 5, 400, 379 9, 394, 629 385,461 33,771,414 6,074,331 3, 303, 060 9,327,774 754 367 555 48,257 8,686 7,845 9,195 553,317 183, 620 417, 729 35, 292, 324 6,576,088 5,956,428 6,476,727 62, 914 18, 997 46, 994 21,474 7,308 7,892 10, 146 8,502,845 2,785,257 3, 128, 262 3, 872, 270 1,194,021 472, 340 467,443 568,219 3, 944, 845 592, 179 656,019 700,036 5,257,419 2,926,876 12,238,660 187, 919 3,039,396 56, 138, 869 1,649 8,497 659, 600 3,212,670 106,015 462,204 99. 064 15, 872 74,382 2,675 80,954 1,477,775 50, 464, 770 8,183,469 35,083,214 1,371,563 39,901,955 707, 159, 521 3, 513, 661 541,858 2,521,768 106,358 2,644,129 46, 988, 926 1,877 5,275 2,043 1, 118, 679 3, 891, 729 1,466,319 123,691 407, 681 168, 764 387 154,000 23,000 549 390,799 49,189 1, 412, 332 17,386,624 17, 263, 882 11,113,356 4, 825, 981 767, 327 641,341 972, 244 1,143,234 612, 548 1,924,657 38, 118 404, 148 485, 024 303, 836 134, 371 20, 962 18,045 23, 982 30, 234 19, 055 45, 736 17,832,465 189,984,759 229,899,760 145, 470, 324 67, 987, 299 10,363,458 9, 304, 434 11,971,815 15,028,584 9, 316, 623 23, 539, 197 1,154,215 13, 604, 720 14,909,520 9, 665, 464 4,206,721. 623, 576 566, 517 770, 363 982, 146 505, 684 1,463,005 1 387 154,000 23, 000 1 210 300 154,047 j 20,026 225,000 27,000 j i 39 11,752 | 2,163 i i Ohio 142,090 700, 557 172, 267 909, 743 I 19,884 4,565 21, 287 •10, 283, 614 2, 316, 727 10,938,856 608, 822 145, 773 708, 410 ' materials used — continued. Yarns not made in mill. Cotton. Woolen. Worsted. Silk. Spun silk. Other yarns. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. United States 83, 832, 216 815,749,636 435, 361 $176,467 687,019 $415, 904 298, 716 81, 158, 321 208, 403 $625,658 2, 174, 275 $520, 223 26, 066, 155 5,744,449 120, 776 29, 960 113, 850 89,417 216,040 895, 989 •78, 679 306, 273 1, 247, 062 276, 745 1,417,213 821,587 74,349 14, 770, 086 4,114,408 4,868,512 42, 487, 453 225, 219 124, 337 10,836 3, 307, 608 924, 946 1,151,503 8,102,738 83, 200 10, 311 20,800 3,752 120, 776 29,960 113, 850 89,417 142, 249 676, 210 78, 679 306, 273 1,005,784 121,727 26, 040 720, 587 219, 551 27,319 5,323 209,424 73, 791 82, 676 219, 779 262, 332 313, 885 146, 257 573,169 326,487 129, 724 319, 385 3, 283, 664 1,790,312 36, 304, 919 182, 089 926, 469 14,206,608 778,826 424,569 6,741,518 40, 369 117,456 1,771,469 50 45 5 13,020 69, 651 26 66,335 195, 971 100 200 129,424 300 600 318, 485 178, 623 95, 000 403, 979 44,478 46,800 110, 040 313, 835 146,212 573, 169 326, 487 43,085 188, 926 8,106 32, 754 700 250 231,372 10,284,488 2,866,925 76, 026 650, 000 33, 281 1, 268, 058 365, 106 10, 775 80, 000 148, 689 4,237 31,225 1,079 36, 000 450 Alabama 28, 670 57, 600 1, 072, 000 3,070 8,740 130, 880 250 All other Southern states 1 17,700 1,300 1, 040, 000 125, 400 17,700 1,300 6,000 1,080 All other Western states 1 . 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California !■ Colorado 1- Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. ' ' COTTON MANUFACTURES. 65 Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. United States . New England states . Maine New Hampshire . Vermont Massachusetts ... Ehode Island Connecticut Middle states. New York New Jersey Pennsylvania . Delaware Maryland materials used — continued. Waste of other mills. Pounds. 40,835,400 34, 679, 845 3, 821, 532 434,053 22,392,884 5,963,702 2, 067, 674 2, 388, 242 Southern states . Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Alabama Mississippi Texas Kentucky Tennessee All other Southern states ] Western states Ohio Indiana Wisconsin All other Western states 1 124, 628 '2,'263,'6i4 , 767, 313 777, 101 367,110 48, 641 2,519,477 ""54," 984' $1, 513, 281 2,752,271 1,242,765 1,607,707 190, 753 24,518 688, 860 269, 853 68, 781 7,140 ' 108," 192 35,410 21,420 1,946 94,251 "2," 1.67 Oil. Gallons. Cost. 135, 781 246,466 7,660 896, 895 222, 756 98, 149 274,243 119,486 25, 283 89,845 2,124 37, 505 831,317 16, 422 286, 491 213, 091 189, 036 81, 615 6,150 6,700 8,617 12, 443 18, 752 39,004 11, 340 2,692 24, 577 $494, 179 265,796 19,757 34, 799 1,123 147,001 46, 191 16,925 54.934 17, 903 7,954 21,296 335 7,446 165, 581 3,042 56,949 46, 688 34,117 15, 786 1,302 1,741 1,392 2,854 1,710 7,868 307 1,997 454 6,110 Starch. 53,656,304 30,898,520 3, 026, 423 4,719,505 119, 644 18,584,a53 2,374,573 2, 073, 522 4,588,077 1, 107, 898 1, 396, 068 1,717,454 35, 691 330, 966 17,525,258 374,272 4,527,391 6, 038, 638 3,413,851 1,666,938 278, 550 356, 000 263, 787 374, 319 231,512 644, 449 1,420 250, 755 67,000 325, 274 Cost. 81,223,102 753,075 62, 364 144, 940 1,984 405, 536 67,817 70, 434 103, 709 27,465 26, 821 42, 784 1,163 5,476 353, 658 7,841 91,283 115, 956 65, 960 38,537 7, 275 9,360 6,769 6,900 3,777 12, 660 3,676 1,818 7,128 Chemicals and dyestuffs. 85, 671, 768 $6, 039, 485 3, 854, 915 136, 645 765,948 ft, 071 2, 357, 105 331,017 259, 129 840, 459 77,884 295, 015 453, 878 6,000 7,682 953, 757 74,066 478, 258 50, 707 225,971 21,032 43,912 180 14, 693 29, 764 15, 174 22,637 3,315 5,299 Fuel. 3,440,996 139,919 410, 995 20, 226 2, 132, 986 519, 653 217, 216 635, 370 160, 155 122, 996 278. 389 18,876 54, 954 1, 879, 055 31,909 703, 811 555, 252 269, 722 141,947 45, 709 38, 566 20, 537 39, 826 31, 776 84, 065 1,695 24, 088 7,504 50,778 Rent of power and heat. Cost. 8382, 676 37, 266 15, 767 47,728 997 25,405 130,235 62,896 "67,'2ii' ""m 123,098 2,800 14, 623 55, 950 48-, 935 40 750 2,180 1,100 'i,'080 Mill supplies. Cost. 87,664,490 84, 614, 468 ,656,208 403,017 513,970 32, 761 2, 527, 224 748, 558 430, 678 744, 087 180, 678 104, 175 316, 015 13, 433 129,786 2, 159, 706 21,183 602, 014 725, 964 425, 302 192, 418 41,873 22, 643 35,887 59, 658 32, 764 104, 489 1,848 38,776 8,256 55,609 All other materials. Cost. 82, 286, 757 3, 033, 275 134,917 352, 931 4,100 1, 575, 707 497, 023 468, 597 870, 835 108, 431 366, 103 348, 718 676, 580 52, 353 231,705 195, 602 95, 809 71,857 3,680 2,334 14, 179 4,269 4,792 33, 778 4,850 12, 173 2,939 13, 816 Freight. 1,225,643 202,337 154, 619 17, 679 646, 592 28,782 175, 634 192, 657 47,925 53, 765 72,932 1,385 16, 650 806,662 417 275, 714 201, 691 241, 905 57, 643 11,484 12, 584 5, 224 61, 795 2,237 5,726 1,123 52, 709 PRODUCTS. Total value. Plain cloths for printing or converting. Not finer than No. 28 warp. Square yards. Value, Square yards. Value, Finer than No. 28 warp. Brown or bleached sheetings and shirtings. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value, Twills and sateens. United States New England states Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts Ehode Island Connecticut Middle states New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Delaware Maryland Southern states Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Alabama Mississippi Texas Kentucky , Tennessee , All other Southern states 1 Western states Ohio Indiana Wisconsin All other Western states 1 8332, 806, 156 1,056,278,952 835,616,575 625,334,875 822, 164, 365 1,212,403,048 $55,513,032 188, 653, 165 847, 946, 9 27, 958, 118 383,196,030 17, 357, 642 481,298,187 25, 203, 827 198, 815, 724 14,631,086 22, 998, 249 999, 886 110,478,327 24,056,176 15,489,412 45, 705, 085 9, 947, 986 6,540,289 23,421,470 372, 089 5,423,251 94, 914, 794 2, 655, 002 28, 372, 798 29, 723, 919 18, 457, 645 8, 153, 136 1,472,835 1,199,990 1,663,712 1,994,935 1, 220, 822 3,533,112 3,967,731 79, 130, 448 21,585,818 687,235,050 63,893,978 2, 133, 955 83, 338, 422 199, 847 2, 868, 638 698, 733 22,164,741 1,951,636 74,523 2, 988, 123 35,052,077 4, 168, 353 1,659,366 212, 820 94, 416, 781 64, 953, 520 4,825,924 3,076,366 25, 188, 579 23, 926, 221 240,170,139 45,378,596 58,426,865 2,530,986 9,774,579 2,403,175 3,307,702 111,840 176,283,924 128, 276, 782 17, 367, 180 32, 973, 722 9,255,612 7,160,965 884,960 2,252,934 86,668,240 43,308,277 19,724,407 79,523,329 2,497,136 2, 800, 881 127, 854 599, 781 297, 235 28, 793 14, 450 1,317,957 68,597 24, 599, 240 "5,162,657 1,500,821 ""572,'454 8, 582, 190 4,540,034 8, 345, 486 111,052,162 4, 290, 969 4, 676, 724 3, 272, 425 644, 577, 686 179, 659 26, 043, 690 26,857 15,550,227 1,368,539 28,674,257 77, 848, 108 1,831,596 1,329,662 62, 270 1,075,624 3,034,475 59, 527 59, 073 22, 570, 687 97, 343, 526 4,381,999 9,130,864 5,774,080 867, 944 3,171,198 154, 710 283, 617 199,255 231,045 1,335,007 316,061 1,650,999 13,941,3K8 379, 365 406, 703 18, 206, 054 88,085,411 283, 105, 383 131,739,917 7£, 432, 173 3,797,382 3, 854, 609 14,659,303 11,012,570 17,684,884 53,553,453 710, 591 3,471,329 11, 553, 073 5, 127, 409 2, 841, 008 363, 764 173, 457 534, 237 501,576 767, 246 2, 012, 581 114, 166 11,379,712 420, 000 1.397,609 2,238,740 700, 000 8, 727, 333 21,000 196,365 4,514,055 406,703 28,076,438 7,060,614 18,416,501 96\388 286,576 757, 617 814, 301, 302 1,626,978 1,381,439 5,859,028 2, 504, 620 952, 385 1,244,485 468, 930 280, 411 493,264 1,880 732, 367 5,789 485,484 58, 800 55, 805 126, 489 ■Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. Western states — California, 1; Colorado, 1; MON- -TEXT- 66 MANUFACTURES. Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. products — continued. Fancy woven fabrics. Ginghams. Duck. Dril Sail. Other. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. 237,841,603 $21, 066, 310 278, 392, 708 $16,179,-200 11,750,151 $2, 216, 371 117, 483, 925 $12, 046, 637 237,206,549 $11,862,794 188, 079, 288 15, 536, 137 111,511,819 8,007,003 516,874 130,693 31, 039, 438 3, 398, 436 48, 241, 163 3, 002, 136 6,922,390 2, 019, 785 784,204 263, 296 9,835,356 44,760,333 800, 819 3,092,400 21, 413, 342 6, 330, 915 1, §26, 566 8,162,191 991, 123 356,244 137, 064, 111 21,554,243 20, 518, 759 38,278,513 10, 995, 987 1, 997, 352 1,495,298 4, 708, 095 53, 932, 358 3,949,351 153, 328 38, 910 17,750,629 1, 638, 320 20, 475, 203 1,316,071 2, 983, 772 14,975,361 164,433 948,769 363, 546 8, 510, 148 91,783 1,693,334 5, 126, 618 19, 189, 921 768, 993 2,986,002 21, 703 186, 932 3,255 10,281 1, 191, 300 1,369,127 365, 485 277,248 4,455,994 30, 981, 363 580,577 3,906,347 2, 972, 723 11,792,638 210,000 156,909 623,860 168,000 2,841,156 11,483,802 221, 171 822, 078 8, 510, 148 2, 723, 129 1,693,334 392, 344 16,629,494 66,813,750 2,343,269 5, 632, 615 186, 932 188, 762, 583 10,281 151,905,528 7,223,428 8,849,672 1,419,593 7,770,704 213,068 965, 038 99,629 502,123 14,000 142, 887 27, 600, 235 79,531,131 16,752,808 25,302,954 1,358,195 3, 799, 187 806, 551 1,117,529 2,508,716 226, 951 6, 898, 210 31,673,022 13,529,893 1,567,596 7, 655, 784 140,834 21,106 931, 297 2,143,546 1, 390, 108 111,858 722, 750 4,790,967 2,821,238 116,467,224 36,378,866 14,867,094 4,436,078 3,273,339 242,271 133, 110 337,944 50, 692 5, 375, 017 1, 801, 586 2,084,385 319,092 607, 927 281, 240 261,468 7,842 » 130, 933 1,115,399 63,439 2,456,932 134, 124 1, 934, 666 818, 912 440, 816 106, 503 64,613 29, 584 2,975,075 2, 752, 702 15, 871 163,016 300,800 22, 560 114, 572 705 Ohio 440, 816 29,584 15, 871 705 products — continued. STATES. Ticks, dei stri] tims, and es. Cottonades. Napped fabrics. Corduroy, cotton velvet, and plush. Mosquito and other netting. Square yards. Value. Square yards Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards Value. 171,800,853 $16,446,633 26, 323, 947 $2,791,431, 268, 852, 716 $18,231,044 7,961,523 $2, 682, 017 41, 885, 023 $875,868 108, 420, 059 10, 724, 795 5, 645, 907 570,431 218, 637, 011 15, 005, 477 3, 653, 019 1, 129, 243 22, 158, 370 455, 119 5, 243, 675 32,201,176 588, 704 3, 226, 598 3, 901, 386 377, 849 14,190,745 62, 253, 909 995, 867 4, 394, 860 63, 794, 395 5, 380, 689 1,190,555 145, 606 137, 199, 384 9, 328, 653 1,687,597 1, 965, 422 349, 343 779, 900 1, 958, 116 6,379,307 13, 820, 947 19, 726, 653 80,233 7, 180, 813 12,947,985 1,528,744 1,165,017 553, 966 8,288,467 46,976 1,238,303 4,992,973 5,814,757 286, 097 882, 836 4,308,504 1, 552, 774 420, 749 772, 440 52,888 1, 069, 384 303,905 36,000 327, 000 3,945,504 14,400 118, 800 1,419,574 8, 038, 518 11,688,135 186, 986 233, 763 12, 262, 848 1,110,206 7,004,759 1,134,039 3, 718, 782 623, 772 685, 137 50, 432, 809 54,811 4, 556, 821 511, 268 12, 389, 573 51, 376 982, 697 1, 026, 591 40,633,116 55, 159 2, 109, 572 23, 228, 007 1,802,138 16,971,764 2,521,849 139, 131 1,048,'395 250, 000 6, 289, 031 409, 634 30, 175, 177 840, 372 6, 044, 140 1,555,920 35, 000 265, 960 4, 173, 815 1,040,307 886, 420 399, 553 74, 990 98, 520 3, 573, 427 252, 692 6,701,703 1, 729, 197 176, 074 All other Southern states l 3, 767, 832 233,159 3,767,832 233, 159 . ... Illinois includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado 1- lois, 1: Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. ' ' COTTON MANUFACTURES. 67 Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. products — continued. Upholstery goods. STATES. Tapestries (piece goods and curtains). Chenille curtains. Lace and lace curtains. Other, including covers. Bags and bagging. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. United States 10,131,638 $4, 123, 600 £05, 414 $257,840 36, 880, 198 83, 585, 138 2,517,459 8703, 806 30,039,616 82, 554, 192 447, 267 60,494 105, 000 70, 000 862, 448 121, 344 19, 974, 844 1,485,254 862, 448 121,344 6, 142, 221 5, 591 , 681 477, 610 695, 512 447,267 50, 494 8,240,942 312, 132 105, 000 36, 775, 198 70, 000 3, 516, 138 9, 684, 271 4,073,106 805,414 257,840 1,655,011 582. 462 797,605 124, 439 5, 850, 000 486, 523 614, 696 100, 913 60, 000 9,586,606 15, 000 4, 048, 784 60,000 745,414 13,000 244,840 30, 925, 198 3, 028, 615 1,655,011 582, 462 37,665 9,322 182,909 8, 767, 167 23,526 907, 099 1,285,365 229, 109 4,030,293 16,600 301,682 20, 984 252, 808 500 1,234,901 760,000 1,220,899 125, 320 109, 305 500, 000 37, 400 • 600, 000 37, 400 products — continued. STATES. Tape and webbing. Yarns for sale. Sewine cotton. Twine. Batting and wadding. Pieces. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. United States 1, 160, 873 8328, 801 332, 186, 012 $55, 188, 603 15,741,062 811,825,218 11,132,250 $1,475,146 10, 567, 700 8864, 016 374, 607 19, 015 118,351,681 24,091,176 10, 674, 886 8, 349, 456 1,902,761 252, 951 7, 537, 820 645, 535 1,753 263 2, 768, 234 6,018,260 1, 532, 247 87, 666, 177 14, 366, 101 6,010,562 41, 710, 540 406,426 847, 278 277, 542 18, 205, 806 2,817,858 1 536. 266 6, 656, 129 199,040 10,000 1,200 74,860 380, 500 6,009,080 874,340 25, 625 3,360 2,166 360, 000 10, 688 476,014 363 15, 000 3,389 190,786 3, 390, 883 3,851,844 3,432,159 4,208,522 2,800,495 2,687,827 2, 861, 134 3, 349, 997 1,245,540 347,605 299,616 1,890,992 135, 639 79,563 36, 549 277, 112 60, 132 2,804 Middle states -, . . . 2,500 12, 500 17,922,997 3, 727, 865 18,718,490 433, 632 907, 556 170, 674, 870 2, 782, 165 870, 824 2,811,123 72, 054 119,963 24, 184, 366 330, 000 3,560,795 258, 719 150, 000 3, 130, 267 60,880 25,625 2,804 154,000 77,000 53, 000 6,750 319, 514 310, 000 101, 286 55, 000 59, 008 557, 654 8,850 74,765 1,837,992 6,111,115 270, 362 775, 160 1,457,545 82, 243 51,927 86, 970, 599 24, 859, 616 35, 748, 694 14,432,028 1,089,493 288, 400 5,020,741 2,000,083 213, 289 1, 449, 021 8.190 12, 708, 636 3,461,090 4, 882, 437 1,965,139 126, 756 34,608 701,854 263,662 31,994 256, 992 2,691 187, 800 416 26, 292 65, 466 2.800,530 648, 190 636, 769 1,320,624 6,977 412, 127 69, 186 74, 394 145, 26S) 7,134 29,931 2,400 122,437 11,393 69,840 46, 200 728, 999 323,925 125, 286 1,546,710 310, 000 55,000 338, 310 42, 863 5,222 1,823 4,000 461,938 177,598 47,719 19,488 43, 739 17, 406 7,438 133 434 28,853 300, 000 5,194 51,000 252 64, 000 1,227,382 169, 923 Ohio 252 64,000 440,000 791,621 96, 000 136, 367 40, 000 39,382 10,000 4,923 219,888 217, 500 24, 625 300, 000 51,000 1,148,000 155, 000 1,326,822 118, 338 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado, 1- Illinoi3, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. 68 MANUFACTURES. Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. United States New England states Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut Middle states New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Delaw'are Maryland Southern states Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Alabama Mississippi Texas Kentucky Tennessee All other Southern states 1 Western states Ohio Indiana Wisconsin All other Western states 1 products — continued. Waste for sale. Pounds. 270, 100, 756 173, 315, 267 10,532,399 IS, 748, 350 860, 135 114,256,895 18,763,717 10, 153, 771 18, 492, 250 6,554,045 2,542,061 5,664,228 209, 428 3, 522, 488 76,290,167 1,948,592 22,039,030 25,582,434 15, 310, 595 6,764,490 1,181,753 441,439 1,224,276 1,150,099 647, 459 2,103,072 3,000 773, 306 250, 098 976, 668 Value. $5, 552, 234 3, 871, 402 210, 176 395, 035 16,752 !, 609, 039 386, 250 254, 150 388, 496 126,419 78, 133 115,142 4,050 64,752 1,261,701 25, 180 335, 571 433, 986 286, 614 101,696 14, 366 4,618 24,000 22, 769 12, 901 30,635 45 11,163 6,685 13, 742 Other products of cotton. Value. $5, 154, 170 1, 838, 378 177, 720 101, 662 1,182,466 118,647 257, 883 2, 345, 009 350, 264 193, 279 1,611,074 190, 392 922, 313 118, 341 74, 309 388, 238 46, 355 20, 384 212, 100 45,586 17,000 23, 800 24, 670 All other prod ucts. Value. $9, 199, 753 39, 763 1, 093, 778 3,499 4, 829, 304 521, 230 567, 079 1, 736, 524 213, 309 449,774 1,051,284 23, 858 339, 170 49, 902 68, 374 205, 167 10, 734 3, 563 200 1,230 40, 000 2,705 25, 000 GOODS EXPORTED. Exported during the vear end- ing June 30,1900 Value. $15, 357, 602 6, 666, 595 1,430,000 739, 757 89, 240 3,761 554, 225 11, 676 '29,"535 513, 114 9, 088, 240 10, 812 145, 573 6, 994, 651 1,230,856 641,045 36, 000 29, 303 48, 442 48, 412 Weight of products. Piece goods. Pounds. 1, 124, 224, 687 576,231,680 64,589,813 103, 725, 761 3,900,736 361, 768, 746 3, 060, 689 39, 185, 935 105,901,658 25, 940, 718 6, 197, 567 42,841,943 809, 931 30,111,499 425, 535, 425 15,438,367 77, 127, 435 173,451,460 81,294,311 42, 523, 657 6, 827, 632 7, 922, 226 4, 062, 530 9, 180, 854 7, 706, 953 16, 555, 924 392, 000 7, 874, 551 1,765,128 6, 524, 245 Yarns spun and not woven in the mill. Pounds. 343, 291, 338 125, 263. 394 2, 769, 987 6,018,260 1, 532, 247 88, 970, 825 17,636,684 8, 340, 391 42, 275, 212 17, 870, 669 3, 727, 865 19, 335, 490 433, 632 907, 566 174,298,711 51,927 88,509,326 25, 359, 616 35, 749, 078 15, 993, 105 1, 083, 993 288, 400 5, 020, 741 2, 000, 383 242, 142 1,449,021 440, 000 791,521 Other products. Pounds. 71, 753, 649 37, 107, 387 5,021,810 5, 001, 126 1,164 14,557,121 9, 187, 122 3, 339, 044 16, 960, 035 3, 934, 770 3,753,052 5, 589, 992 3, 682, 221 14,041,180 68,151 3,326,766 1,902,797 3, 793, 686 847, 979 292, 797 46, 200 1, 034, 107 2,271,359 457, 338 3, 645, 047 255, 000 109, 270 26, 000 3, 244, 777 PRINTING, DYEING, BLEACHING, AND MERCERIZING CLOTH AND YARN IN COTTON MILLS. Printing. Printing ma- chines Number Cloth printed. Square yards. Additional value given by printing. Dyeing. Square yards Yarn dyed. Pounds. Additional value given by dyeing. Bleaching. Cloth bleached. Additional value given by bleaching. Square yards. Mercerizing. Yarn mer- cerized. Pounds. Additional value given by merceriz- ing. United States . 292,741,100 85, 242, 695 125, 894, 626 2 151,610,157 $6,803,077 3 197, 691, 533 $932, 452 2, 149, 722 S328, 330 New England states . 291,593,800 62, 686, 716 63, 496, 281 125,235,506 590, 649 1,647,470 245, 017 Maine New Hampshire . Vermont Massachusetts - . . Rhode Island Connecticut Middle states . New York New Jersey ... Pennsylvania. Delaware Maryland Southern states . Virginia North Carolina South Carolina Georgia Alabama Mississippi Texas Kentucky Tennessee All other Southern states ] 47,231,375 933,716 4,948,962 242,057,565 2, 270, 000 34,860 4,175,287 81,750 461 51,166 41,040,589 8, 818, 198 7,878,967 55,965,346 3,340,491 3, 276, 720 307, 252 2 41,590,7S2 4,525,039 10, 455, 997 18,166,563 179 9 1,551 403 262 i, 778, 075 i, 842, 238 22, 831 101, 551 693, 381 921,612 46,677,444 286, 788 147, 936 31,543 194, 121 1,340,254 307,216 502,252 208, 574 "36," 443 83, 313 1,115,6 5, 513, 038 44, 237, 979 5, 832, 509 381,820 106,450 2, 002, 531 15, 476, 499 315 581,083 68,301,413 44, 501, 509, 7, 7, 456, 476 426, 156 794, 812 40,604 63, 410 90, 107 26, 328 83, 309 392, 615 3,242 1,648 78, 523 ,211,107 25, 278, 583 142,682 306, 490 '5,'435,"462' 5, 727, 300 34, 850, 776 2,250,514 14,747,021 2,123,809 2,394,628 85, 2,442, 43, 432, 33, 58, 300, 000 , 265, 583 1,600 124, 893 713,000 16, 289 Western states . 1,500,072 1, 556, 969 2,710,396 2, 000, 000 1,585,900 500, 000 5,000 Ohio Indiana Wisconsin All other Western states 1 320, 000 B75.9O0 1,500,672 590, 000 20, 200 500, 000 5, 000 ■Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. 2 Does not include 45.432 dozen underwear. 3 Does not include 975,000 yards cotton, 11,989 dozen underwear, and 646,931 qui Louisiana, 2; West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado 1- Its. COTTON MANUFACTURES. 69 Table 24.— COTTON GOODS, DETAILED SUMMARY, BY STATES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY: 1900— Continued. COMPARISON OF PRODUCTS. POWER. Number of estab- ishments reporting for both years. Value for census year. Value for preceding business year. Number of estab- lishments report- ing. Total horse- power. Owned. STATES. Engines. Water wheels. Electric motors, Steam. Gas or gasoline. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. 602 $241,797,279 8201,875,820 958 805, 126 1,755 527, 186 10 275 1,316 250, 790 275 15, 268 229 143, 763, 288 118,174,006 331 498, 868 960 324,062 4 221 839 162, 618 86 7,126 12 17 4 I'll 49 36 149 12,718,118 19, 388, 543 963, 294 81,892,089 17,040,685 11,760,559 37,290,359 11,072,519 15,607,259 787, 206 66, 615, 282 14, 173, 689 9, 918, 051 33, 110, 371 15 23 5 162 71 55 221 39, 963 68, 788 3,170 281,032 63, 996 41,919 72, 861 25 59 4 667 122 83 275 12,350 35, 822 1,400 210, 880 44, 105 19, 505 56, 580 98 98 8 333 152 150 88 23,233 32,231 1,770 64, 158 19,872 21,354 13, 564 4 6 355 315 3 206 63 5,671 1 3 15 44 13 29 785 296 19 12 109 1 8 211 8, 485, 844 6,101,315 17,625,292 130, 445 4,947,463 57,867,329 7,548,310 5,402,096 15,321,204 110,082 4, 728, 679 48, 064, 875 34 19 151 3 14 390 23, 859 14,215 22,463 1,460 10,864 222,811 47 63 138 3 24 498 14,801 13, 044 19,615 1,250 7,870 138, 069 2 1 40 4 45 11 11 1 20 371 8,524 1,005 831 210 2,994 72, 568 9 17 105 162 29 2 5 157 7,835 3 85 • 42 38 17 3 2 6 11 4 13 2,074,780 14,197,270 17,916,449 11,902,167 5,137,318 955, 204 1,038,699 1,663,712 1,869,268 1,112,462 2, 876, 303 2, 003, 160 11, 846, 103 14,159,857 9,886,277 4,526,506 784, 062 909, 734 1,333,090 1,659,601 956, 479 2,526,568 7 177 80 67 21 6 4 6 17 5 16 5,048 58,442 78,801 39, 864 23,032 3,365 2,950 3,605 5,525 2,179 10, 586 6 207 117 70 36 12 8 12 2.3 7 22 1,690 37, 258 43,386 22, 946 16, 485 3,330 2, 950 3,455 4,590 1,979 8,475 30 141 90 70 25 1 3,070 19,225 26,434 16,011 6,508 35 1 28 114 11 3 28 1 1 3 2 1,456 5,759 657 35 1 11 2 18 150 935 200 2,040 1 5 3 11 3 4 1 5 231,045 1,335,007 129, 419 1,180,832 197, 672 1, 243, 615 130, 000 955, 281 3 4 3 6 350 4,006 1,575 4,655 2 11 3 6 300 4,000 575 3,600 1 5 2 40 1 2 5 6 14 2 1,000 1,000 power — continued. ESTABLISHMENTS CLASSIFIED BY NUMBEP. OF PERSONS EMPLOYED, NOT INCLUDING PROPRIETORS AND FIRM MEMBERS. Rented. Furnished to other establish- ments. Total number of estab- lish- ments. No em- ployees. Under 5. 5 to 20. 21 to 50. 51 to 100. 101 to 250. 251 to 600. 601 to 1,000. STATES. Electric. Other kind. Over 1,000. Horse- power. Horse- power. United States 1,922 9,685 4,848 973 1 10 63 95 144 289 190 113 68 718 4,123 3,375 332 2 14 28 33 80 61 62 52 4,025 1,000 15 23 5 163 71 55 225 1 4 3 3 1 32 21 20 61 2 5 3 25 18 8 23 3 5 6 420 6 1 10 7 10 41 43 5 250 350 74 14 10 2,027 2,260 2 7 3 4 43 13 10 5 35 42 7 5 9 32 5 115 995 3 1 8 4 350 39 34 20 154 3 14 400 1 4 5 32 7 3 31 6 8 5 42 4 144 3 3 13 1 3 99 2 2 5 3 1 1 1,988 995 7 24 2 5 5 74 854 3,480 198 25 41 12 260 7 177 80 67 31 6 4 6 17 5 16 4 72 28 21 9 1 1 3 4 1 4 2 40 24 14 9 3 3 1 2 1 7 1 500 1 13 2 5 44 6 12 5 6 13 12 6 1 3,220 3 160 10 7 350 4 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 5 1 2 1 25 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 55 280 1 3 4 3 6 1 2 *" 280 3 "i i::::::::*: 1 2 i 55 4 L. 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Southern states— Arkansas, 2; Louisiana, 2; Illinois, 1; Missouri, 2; Nebraska, 1. West Virginia, 1. Western states— California, 1; Colorado, 1; 70 MANUFACTURES. COTTON SMALL WARES. At the census of 1900 for the first time a separate classification was made of the establishments producing cotton small wares, including cotton lace, edgings, boot and shoe lacings, corset lacings, lamp and stove wicks, tapes, webbings, and trimmings. A small number of these establishments may have been reported at the Eleventh Census under the head of "millinery and lace goods," and some others may have been included in the class of "boot and shoe find- ings. " Most of them, however, were included with cotton goods. Inasmuch as a few only of these establishments make use of raw cotton, or operate spindles, and since their products are quite distinct in character from those of ordinary cotton mills, it seems desirable to group them by themselves, in order to avoid misleading deduc- tions from the statistics of the cotton manufacture proper, to recognize the importance of a rapidly ex- panding industry, and to lay a basis for future com- parisons. Nevertheless, the following tables do not give an ex- act view of the magnitude of the industries included in this group. The rule necessarily followed in classi- fying establishments is to combine those whose chief product, measured by value, is similar. Evidently no rule of classification gives an entirely satisfactory result. In the present instance there are cotton mills that make nothing but sewing cotton, and establishments which must be classed as producing cotton small wares that make a certain quantity of sewing cotton. Although tape and webbings are frequently a minor and inci- dental product of cotton mills, a small establishment which buys its yarn and makes tape and webbings exclusively may not properly be classed as such a mill. These considerations will explain why the use of a considerable amount of raw cotton and the operation of a certain number of cotton spindles are reported in a class of mills which, as a rule, do not spin their own yarn. They will also indicate that neither do the fol- lowing tables disclose the entire product of the articles included under the designation of cotton small wares, nor do all the products of the mills here reported fall properly under that designation. But a fairly accurate statement can be deduced from a comparison with the reports of other textile industries. Table 25 presents the leading statistics of cotton small wares for 1900. Table 25.— COTTON SMALL WAKES: SUMMARY, 1900. Number of establishments 82 Capital $6,397,386 Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number 189 Salaries $226,625 Wage-earners, average number 4, 932 Total wages $1, 563, 442 Men, 16 years and over 1, 367 Wages $671, 616 Women, 16 years and over 3, 173 Wages $828,732 Children, under 16 years 392 Wages $63,194 Miscellaneous expenses $462, 634 Cost of materials used $3, 110, 137 Value of products $6, 394, 164 Active spindles, number 42, 600 Looms, number 6, 070 Cotton consumed, bales 7, 213 Cotton consumed, pounds 3, 640, 878 The geographical distribution of the establishments reporting is as follows: New England states, 32; Mid- dle states, 47; Georgia, 1; Ohio, 1; Indiana, 1. The several industries are of a class which tends to spring up within cities or in their suburbs, and a large propor- tion of those here reported are in, or in the immediate vicinity of. New York, Philadelphia, Boston, and Providence. They are for the most part small estab- lishments. The average capital indicated is something less than $80,000. There are, however, some large establishments in Rhode Island. The combined capital of three of them is nearly $2,000,000, which is almost one-third of the amount reported for the whole coun- try. The elimination of the returns of these three mills would bring the average capital down to about $56,000. The average number of hands employed in each establishment was 60; outside of Rhode Island, it was but 41. An inspection of the average number employed during each month indicates great steadiness of em- ployment, the slight falling off during the summer months being no greater than is easily explained by the practice of allowing employees to take a vacation. The chief materials used are shown by the following statement: MATERIALS. Raw cotton Cotton yarn Woolen yarn... Worsted yarn... Silk yarn Spun-silk yarn. Other yarn Raw cotton and yarns, total . All other materials Total cost. 3,640,878 10, 860, 648 274, 351 47,308 43, 709 9,852 718, 444 15, 595, 190 Cost. $264, 541 1,873,032 91,251 33, 414 134, 296 25, 394 139,666 2,561,594 548, 543 3, 110, 137 Ninety-three per cent in weight and 83 per cent in value of the raw or spun fiber used was cotton, but in the aggregate not a little of the product was mixed as to material. A classification of products can not be made. Manu- facturers were not asked to report with exactness the specific character of their goods, and indeed, the variety and the absence of standard units of quantity would have rendered such specification valueless. Nevertheless, from the total value of products reported, $6,394,164, the following items should be subtracted as not coming properly under the classification of cotton small wares: Upholstery goods, $35,000; yarns for sale, $27,403; sewing cotton, $83,453; and twine, $71,465 — a total of $217,321. On the other hand, in order to obtain the actual total of cotton small wares produced in all the mills of the county, and not merely of these here re- ported, it is necessary to add to the remainder the sum of $328,801, value of tape and webbings made in cotton mills, and a large but unknown sum out of the item of more than $5,000,000 reported in the returns of cotton manufacturing proper, under the head of "All other products of cotton." Table 26 presents the detailed statistics for the indus- try for 1900. COTTON MANUFACTURES. Table 26.— COTTON SMALL WARES, BY STATES: 1900. 71 Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership •- Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women — Number , Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year. Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October , November , December , Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November ' December Skilled operatives by classes, average number: Spinners, mule — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Spinners, frame- Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Machinery: Traducing spindles, not including twisting and doubling spindles, number — Mule Frame Looms, number — On plain cloths — Less than 28 inches wide From 28 to 32 inches wide 36 inches wide and over On fancy weaves United States. 82 24 28 !6, 397, 385 $408, 824 8863, 128 12, 159, 876 2, 965, 557 85 189 $226, 625 43 $82, 660 146 $143, 965 118 $129, 788 28 $14, 177 5,504 4,355 4,932 $1,563,442 $671,516 3,173 $828,752 392 $63,194 1,393 1,398 1,441 1,439 1,408 1,280 1,249 1,270 1,345 1,384 1,390 1,407 3, 203 3,191 3, 229 3,144 3,124 2,979 3,075 3,114 3,216 3,261 3,274 3,266 410 386 409 401 392 372 371 371 386 391 414 401 117 25 430 1,136 4,300 38, 300 47 124 Massachu- setts. $528, 258 $19, 774 $77, 353 $240,819 $190, 312 11 24 $32, 150 12 $19, 000 12 $13, 150 10 $12,200 2 S950 519 353 430 $151,254 140 $68,636 241 $74, 138 49 $8, 480 148 143 148 145 138 128 123 132 148 144 141 140 239 226 253 247 23;' 232 223 232 251 249 250 252 66 49 51 49 39 35 41 42 58 54 57 52 20 122 New Jersey. $409, 917 $7,500 $47,300 $222, 312 $132,805 1 16 $18, 730 4 $7, 560 12 811, 170 $8,500 4 $2, 670 176 156 163 $43, 821 56 $22,535 $18,059 27 $3,227 New York. 10 6 2 8550, 933 $12,500 $42, 000 $203, 455 $292, 983 22 42 $36, 449 4 $5,400 $31,019 33 $28, 149 5 $2,900 684 l.s'J 600 $163,454 146 $70, 315 447 $92,034 7 $1,105 148 154 161 167 154 118 132 137 143 150 145 144 466 467 469 465 439 374 419 421 i 454 467 456 462 7 7 Pennsyl- vania. 6 11 7 $1,945,844 $107, 500 $215, 500 $627, 758 $995, 086 50 864, 620 $23, 900 41 $40, 720 31 $36, 805 10 $3, 915 1,647 1,211 1,444 $454,947 337 $149,479 1,001 $287, 328 106 $18, 140 352 357 375 377 377 315 272 271 309 334 351 354 1,021 1,021 1,025 945 945 899 969 982 1, 021 1,053 1,073 1,063 112 111 120 122 115 110 103 100 200 666 6 103 Rhode Island. 82, 876, 699 $259,000 $468, 875 $834, 726 $1,314,098 13 48 $67,924 11 $24,600 37 $43,324 30 839, 582 7 $3,742 2,299 2,068 2,209 $735,888 650 1,379 $353,637 180 $30,565 641 640 651 655 649 637 644 647 652 060 653 671 1,366 1,366 1,368 1,380 1,393 1,382 1,378 1,379 1,384 1,384 1,384 1,384 169 163 174 173 ISO 180 181 181 184 184 194 192 129 278 3,400 36, 500 All other states. 1 2 1 2 $85, 729 $2, 550 812, 100 $30,806 840, 273 4 9 $6, 752 $2, 200 6 $4,552 6 $4,552 179 78 86 $14, 078 $8,865 25 $3,536 23 $1, 677 45 45 47 35 31 38 43 24 35 38 40 39 29 29 29 25 26 26 20 15 22 24 25 24 27 27 27 20 23 24 21 11 21 23 27 23 900 1,800 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Georgia, 1; Indiana, 1; Ohio, 1. 72 MANUFACTURES. Table 26.— COTTON SMALL WARES, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Machinery— Continued. Looms, number — Continued. On tapes and other narrow goods On bags and other special fabrics Miscellaneous expenses: ■Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Sent of offices, interest, insurance, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Cotton — Domestics, other than sea-island, bales Pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill — Cotton, pounds Cost Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Other yarns, pounds Cost Waste of other mills, pounds Cost Oil, gallons Cost Starch, pounds Cost Chemical9 and dye stuffs Fuel .' Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight : Products: Total value Upholstery goods — Tapestries, piece goods, and curtains, square yards Value Tape and webbing, value Yarns for sale, pounds Value Sewing cotton, pounds Value Twine, pounds Value Waste for sale, pounds Value Other products of cotton All other products Goods exported during the year ending June 30, 1900 Weight of products, pounds: Piece goods Yarns spun and not woven in the mill Other products Dyeing and mercerizing cloth and yarn in cotton mills: Dyeing- Yarn, pounds Additional value given by dyeing Mercerizing— Yarn, pounds Additional value given by mercerizing Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines- Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower. Electric motors, number Horsepower Other power, horsepower Rented — Electric, horsepower Other kind, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments Under 6 6 to 20 21 to 50 51 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 500 501 to 1 ,000 United States. 2,202 2,649 8462, 534 851,543 825, 931 8275, 621 8109,439 $3,110,137 7,213 3,640,878 8264,541 10,860,648 $1,873,032 274, 361 891,251 47,308 $33,414 43, 709 8134,296 9,852 $25, 394 718, 444 $139, 666 399, 500 $2, 310 19, 458 83,935 144, 430 83,908 $46, 339 $69,578 $23, 381 $101, 576 $284, 652 $12, 864 86,394,164 35, 000 $35,000 $2, 192, 601 116, 609 $27,403 165, 996 $83, 453 510, 468 $71,465 761,857 $11,336 $2,711,268 $1,261,638 $23,447 735,154 168,605 10,373,860 1,607,271 8107, 689 10,000 $1,000 54 $4,914,272 84,095,927 80 6,221 4,425 4 46 19 1,060 5 245 10 169 276 40 Massachu- setts. 282 20 831,754 85,362 84,515 821,877 8321,007 200 100, 189 86, 718 1,767,690 $255, 157 250 8150 1,042 $407 6,500 8390 2,157 $425 12,355 $493 $1,172 86, 690 $3, 510 $18,061 826,543 $1,291 $646, 848 $215, 336 340, 379 $4,027 $345,905 $81, 680 $300 241,454 1,021,560 10 8552,141 8484,312 13 800 6 435 1 36 5 240 New Jersey. 42 $25,265 81,000 $1, 086 $17,954 85,225 $230,892 1,126,016 8158,360 421 $346 400 $1,700 302,625 821,633 150 $58 83,000 $3, 504 81,200 82,370 $37, 307 $1,414 8390, 477 74,000 $37, 000 5,000 $75 8330, 402 823, 000 $900 1,153,330 485,000 $58, 000 $165, 283 $129, 560 5 264 254 1 New York. 66 7 $34,497 815,240 815, 152 $3,200 $460,876 1,014,020 $304,778 40,190 $37,875 18,700 $11,375 4,771 820, 187 703 $3,010 96,660 $15,170 841 $173 $1,777 $3, 749 82,298 856,372 84,112 8840, 017 35, 000 835, 000 $91, 000 $105, 254 $608, 763 9 $585,500 $426, 700 18 290 4 120 2 4 2 36 Pennsyl- vania. 1,173 411 $205, 117 $22,179 84, 222 890, 410 8938,068 3,632,287 8595,864 233,000 $52,660 25,916 $19,962 22, 410 8100, 841 9,149 $22,384 165,727 $38,858 3,000 $750 2,570 $698 14,000 $400 81,228 $11, 502 $11, 296 $17, 070 $60, 138 $4,407 $2,026,227 $907, 516 300 $105 8628, 771 $489,835 $8,262 208, 700 '2,'69i"749' 17 $1,559,062 $1, 267, 143 24 974 14 803 Rhode Island. . 668 2,158 $155, 731 $6, 612 $14, 818 8123, 697 810, 604 $1,096,455 6,718 3,402,898 $247, 489 2,916,843 $515,415 740 $370 1,675 $1,340 16,128 $11,668 152, 390 $63,598 12, 516 $2,351 113, 075 82, 890 $40, 689 844, 670 83,626 860,931 8101,430 $88 $2, 379, 500 $963, 249 116,609 $27, 403 91,996 $46, 453 396, 178 $6,829 $1,282,946 $52, 620 $13, 985 285, 000 168, 605 3, 560, 771 1,122,271 $49, 689 10,000 $1,000 10 $1,941,191 $1,708,859 16 3,553 18 2,623 20 146 5 634 4 240 10 All other states. 1 5 11 $10, 170 81, 150 $8,635 $62,849 295 137,791 810, 334 403,792 $43,458 767 $587 390,000 $1, 170 1,225 8230 5,000 $125 8250 81,435 82,862 $1,552 $111,095 $15, 500 510,468 $71,465 20,000 $300 $17, 990 85,840 775, 206 5 $111, 095 $79,353 4 340 3 190 150 Uncludes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Georgia, 1; Indiana, 1; Ohio, 1. WOO.L (73) WOOL MANUFACTURES, ALSO HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS, SHODDY, AND FUR HATS. By William J. Battison, Expert Special Agent. The Eleventh Census completed the statistical record of the wool manufacture in the United States for its first hundred years under the factory system. The Twelfth Census closed the record for the Nineteenth century and established the point of departure for the Twentieth. At the census of 1890 the statistics of the industry were presented more in detail than ever before. The schedules prepared for the census of 1900 were in most respects identical with those used ten years earlier. The returns received were generally prepared with care, and with a fair understanding of the purport of the inquiries. The expert special agent desires to express his appre- ciation of the uniform courtesy shown by manufac- turers in the preparation of their reports, and in response to his requests for information needed to com- plete reports lacking in some details, or where through misunderstanding the questions were not properly answered. Care was taken at the Eleventh Census to properly group, so far as possible, the statistics of the various branches of the industiy according to the general char- acter of the production of mills, and the tables then prepared were made the basis of improved tables in 1900. The industry is divided into groups, as in 1890, under the general heads of woolen goods, including carding mills; worsteds; carpets, other than rag; felt goods; and wool hats; and, separately given, is a, report on wool scouring and wool pulling, which has not hitherto been attempted. The statistics of the hosiery and knit goods manufacture are presented in connection with those of the wool manufacture in certain tables for comparative purposes. Formerly- the larger propor- tion of the raw material consumed in this industry was wool, so that it was pi'oper to combine the reports of this industiy with those of the wool manufacture. At the present time the cotton fiber predominates so greatly that the industry can hardly be considered as a branch of the wool industry, but should be treated as an independent or cognate industry. The manufacture of shoddy and the recovery of the waste products of the wool manufacture, which are currently known under the general term " shoddy, 1 ' was reported upon the special schedule with the wool manufacture. The sta- tistics are contained in this report, but are separately given. The fur hat manufacture is also reported here- with, not as a part of the wool manufacture, but be- cause the two are closely related in raw material and products, and because the fur hat manufacture has largely superseded the wool hat manufacture. Here- tofore the reports for fur hats have been so combined with those for straw and silk hats that it has been im- possible to obtain satisfactory statistics of the industry. Table 1 shows the comparative statistics of the wool manufacture, including hosiery and knit goods, 1880 to 1900, with percentages of increase. Table 1.— WOOL MANUFACTURE, INCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS, COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1880 to 1900, WITH PERCENTAGES OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. Number of establish- ments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. . Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneousexpenses Cost of materials used. Value of products DATE OF CENSUS. 1(100 2, 335 $392,040,353 7,304 89, 580, 293 242, 495 $82, 292, 444 104, 525 $45, 303, 600 117, 706 833, 793, 231 20, 264 S3, 195, 613 $23, 929, 797 $232, 230, 986 $392, 473, 050 $70. $39, 828. c ^ii3. $337, 2, 489 ., 494, 481 = 5,273 i, 712, 848 213,859 917, 894 93, 396 743, 431 105, 770 889,244 14, 693 285, 219 249, 508 095, 572 768, 524 1880 2,689 $159, 091, 869 m m 161, 557 $47, 389, 087 66, 814 (») 19,284 ( 3 ) h 8104,371,551 8267, 252, 913 PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 !6.2 32.2 17.4 86.4 38.5 66.8 13.4 16.0 32.4 49.6 11.9 14.0 23.8 11.3 17.0 58.3 37.9 39.8 24.3 !23.8 14.3 10.2 23.6 26.4 i TJpcrGRSc 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. 8 Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. The whole number of establishments reporting on the special schedules for wool manufactures and hosiery and knit goods was 2,653, viz, 1,035 woolen mills, in- cluding carding mills; 186 worsted mills; 133 carpet manufactories; 36 felt goods factories; 24 wool hat mills; 921 hosiery and knit goods factories; 171 fur hat facto- (7.-,) 76 MANUFACTURES. ries; 105 shoddy mills; and 25 wool-scouring plants; also the 17 educational, eleemosynary, and penal institutions shown in the following table. One hundred and fifty- three establishments were idle during the census year, 117 of which were wool manufactories and 36 were hosiery and knit goods mills. The fur hat factories, shoddy mills, and wool-scouring establishments, given above, are not included in the general tabulation for the wool manufacture (Table 29), because such mills were not so reported in 1890. Deducting these, and the 17 educational, eleemos3 r nary, and penal institutions, and the whole number reported for the wool and hosiery and knit goods manufactures was 2,335. At the census of 1890 a total of 2,489 similar mills was reported. The decrease in number was 154, equal to 6.2 per cent. That this does not indicate any curtailment of the in- dustry is shown by Table 5, giving the machinery of the wool manufacture, 1880 to 1900. Table 2 is a summary for avooI manufactures, includ- ing hosiery and knitgoods, in educational, eleemosynary, and penal institutions, 1890 and 1900. The work carried on in educational, eleemosynary, and penal institutions that employed the wool or cotton fiber was confined largely to the hosiery and knit goods manufacture. Only 4 of these institutions manufac- tured woolen goods in 1900. These were located in Iowa, Massachusetts, New York, and Texas. The 17 institutions reporting had an aggregate capital of $588,305, of which $169,765 was invested in machinery, tools, and implements. They employed 71 superin- tendents, managers, and clerks, and operated 17 sets of woolen cards, 7,472 woolen spindles, and 2,936 cotton spindles (of which 64 were doubling spindles), 79 broad looms, 22 narrow looms, and 96 hand looms on woolen or mixed goods. They consumed 379,319 pounds of wool, 123,747 pounds of cotton, 400 pounds of woolen yarn, 470 pounds of merino yarn, and 890,450 pounds of cotton yarn, and other materials, costing in all $450,905, and produced goods to the value of $644,607, of which $269,764 were woolen goods, consisting prin- cipally of flannels, blankets, and satinets, and $374,843 of hosiery and knit goods. Table 2 —WOOL MANUFACTURES, COMPARATIVE SUM- MARY, INCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS; EDU- CATIONAL, ELEEMOSYNARY, AND PENAL INSTITU- TIONS: 1890 AND 1900. Year. Num- ber of institu- tions. EMPLOYEES. Miscel- laneous ex- penses. Cost of mate- rials . used. Value STATES. Total num- ber. Total amount paid. of prod- ucts. "United States . . 1900 1890 17 14 584 1,419 8113,778 88,279 824, 191 8450, 905 279, 800 8644,607 462, 585 1900 11890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 3 481 61, 982 9,305 84,283 196,990 New York 3 Pennsylvania 4 All other states 5 . . . 3 3 3 3 8 ' 8 27 604 8 432 68 383 26, 123 24, 697 10, 708 36, 060 14, 965 27, 522 7,281 t 1 ) 7,605 ( l ) 143, 596 53, 708 32, 653 132, 181 190, 373 93, 911 178,924 97, 995 55, 978 196, 306 212, 715 168, 284 1 Not reported. - Institutions in Illinois: 1900, hosiery and knit goods, 3. 3 Institutions in New York: 1900, hosiery and knit goods, 2; woolen goods, 1. 1890, hosiery and knit goods, 3. * Institutions in Pennsylvania: 1900, hosiery and knitgoods, 3. 1890, hosiery and knit goods, 1; carpets and rugs, other than rag, 2. 3 Includes institutions distributed as follows: 1900, Iowa, 1 (woolen goods); Massachusetts,! (woolen goods) ; Missouri, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); New Jer- sey, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); Ohio, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); Tennessee, 1 (hosiery and knitgoods); Texas, 1 (woolen goods); Wisconsin, 1 (hosiery and knitgoods). 1890, Maryland, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); Minnesota, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); New Hampshire, 1 (hosiery and knit goods); Ohio, 2 (hosiery and knit goods); Texas, 1 (woolen goods); Virginia, 1 (hosiery and knit goods) ; Wisconsin, 1 (hosiery and knit goods). THE WOOL MANUFACTURE. Table 3 presents a comparative summary of the wool manufacture as returned at each census from 1850 to 1900, inclusive, with the percentages of increase for each decade. Table 3.— WOOL MANUFACTURES, COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1850 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. Number of establishments — Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses. . *, Cost of materials used Value of products DATE OF CENSUS. 1, $310, 179, 4, 86, 455, 159, 857, 933, 83, $36, 412, 64, $19, 549, 11. 81,971 $17, 329. $181, 169: $296, 990: 1890 $245, 886, 8 3, 3 $4, 057, 154, $54, 339, 78, $33, 702, 64, $18, 883: 10 $1,754 $15, 622 $167,233 8270, 527 1880 2,330 $143, 512, 278 132, 672 840,687,612 67, 942 ( 4 ) 49, 107 ( 4 ) 16, 623 $149, 160, 600 8238,085,686 1870 3,208 $121,451,059 105, 071 $35, 928, 150 53, 400 (<) 39, 150 (") 12, 521 $124, 318, 792 $199,257,262 1, 476- 838,814,422 50, 419 811, 699, 630 29, 852 (<) 20, 567 $43, 447, 048 $73,454,000 1850 1,675 831,971,631 45, 438 C) 26, 659 18,879 ,831,583 , 608, 779 PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 216.5 26.1 23.1 59.1 3.1 6.(5 6.1 8.0 2 1.2 3.5 7.6 12. 1 10. 9 8.3 9.8 1880 to 1890 2 27.3 71.3 16.3 33.6 15.6 32.3 ; 3i.'6 12.1 13.6 1870 to 1880 2 27. 4 18.2 26.3 13.2 27. 2 25.4 2(1. 19.5 1800 to 1870 117.3 212.9 108.4 207.1 78.9 90.4 186.1 171.3 1850 to 1860 HI. 9 21.4 11.0 60.7 61.1 i Carding mills were not Included in 1860. 3 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. < Not reported separately. 'Not fully reported. fl Not reported. (See Table 30.) WOOL. 77 The table shows that there has been a satisfactoiy increase in the industry in capital, wage-earners, wages, cost of materials used, and value of products during the half century. The greatest increase in value of prod- ucts, $125,803,262, and the greatest percentage of in- crease, 171.3, were during the decade ending with 1870. This was also the period of greatest increase in estab- lishments, wage-earners, wages, and cost of materials used. The extraordinary growth during this decade - was due largely to the demand for woolens for army purposes and to the cotton famine. CONDITIONS IN 1900. The year 1900 was an unfortunate one for an official investigation of the wool manufacture. It was a year of unusual fluctuations in prices, and of severe losses in the wool market. The machinery in many mills was only in partial operation, or run on part time, and production was on a scale less than normal. Like the preceding year, it was marked by unusual conditions, both as to the chief raw material and manufactured products. A remarkable speculative rise in the price of wool occurred in 1899. Ohio XX wool, which was quoted in April in Boston at 26i cents a pound, at the close of the year had advanced to 35 and 36 cents, or over 36 per cent. During the same period Port Phillip (Aus- tralia) average greasy wool advanced in London from 20 cents to 35 cents, an advance of 75 per cent. These advances were followed by a sudden collap:-e in the market abroad, which was reflected here by a fall in Ohio XX wool to 29 and 30 cents in June, 1900. The Bradford (England) Observer, in its review of the wool market in December, 1900, says of this period: If a vote were taken on 'Change to-day, the answer would be almost unanimous that 1900 has been the worst year we ever had. To understand this year we must go back at least two years. About the middle of 1898 it began to be clear that the commerce of the world had entered upon a period of expansion. Toward the end of 1898 business began to look up, especially in those goods which are made from merino, and prices began slowly to harden, and at the London sales it looked as if, after all, there might be a short- age of merino. Men said that we were entering upon an era of higher prices. They lost their timidity, and toward the end of the year became absolutely reckless. The value of 60's Botany tops, which had been 20Jd. before the rise began at the end of 1898, had in twelve months risen to 34Jd. per pound. The high price killed the trade, and there was collapse. In ten months, dur- ing which there was very little selling, the price fell to 18d. At the end of last year the trade of the whole world was in a prosper- ous condition, and the tremendous collapse which occurred took everybody by surprise. The plain lesson is that wool is wool, whether it be merino or crossbred and that no class of raw mate- rial can for long maintain a price which is out of all proportion higher than another. These sudden changes in wool prices, and the stren- uous competition for business, led to the failure or liquidation of many large and until then prosperous concerns, and was largely instrumental in bringing about consolidations of establishments under one man- agement. Two important changes in the tariff laws occurred during the decade. Under the first — the law of 1894 — wool, which had been dutiable at nearly the same rates for twenty-seven years, was put upon the free list, and imports of manufactures of wool which had been for the same period subjected to a duty, partly specific and partly ad valorem, were placed on an ad valorem basis. The second change came with the tariff of 1897, when wool was replaced on the dutiable list at nearly the same rates as formerly, and the compound system of duties again applied to woolen goods. IMPORTS OF WOOL. The effect of these laws on the imports of wool was very marked, as is shown in the following tables. The imports of wool for the seven years ending June 30, 1890, under the tariff law of 1883, were: Total, pounds. •Yearly aver- age, pounds. Class 1 160, 497, 317 45, 285, 291 531,764,968 22, 928, 188 6,469,327 75, 966, 424 737, 547, 576 105, 363, 939 The tariff law of 1890 became operative October 6 in that year, and continued in force until August 28, 1894. It did not greatly change the duties previously existing on wool and woolens. The total imports of wool under this law were: Total, pounds. Yearly aver- age, pounds. 134, 408, 715 18,587,124 342, 430, 886 34, 317, 120 4, 745, 648 Class 3 87, 429, 162 495, 426, 725 126,491,930 From September 1, 1894, to August 1, 1897, the period of the operation of the law of 1894, the imports of wool were: Total, pounds. Yearly aver- age, pounds. 413, 784, 829 70, 127, 994 310, 654, 503 141,869,084 24, 043, 884 106, 510, 115 794, 567, 326 272, 423, 083 In the fiscal year 1896-97 occurred the largest impor- tation of foreign wool ever known in the history of the United States for anyone year, amounting to 350,852,026 pounds. Between August 1, 1897, and June 30, 1900, under the present law the imports of wool were: Total, pounds. Yearly aver- age, pounds. Class 1 81,947,914 15, 894, 619 245, 339, 749 28,096,428 5, 449, 585 Class 3... 84,116,485 343, 182, 2S2 117, 662, 498 78 MANUFACTURES. The total importations from October, 1890, to June 30, 1900, were: Total, pounds. Yearly aver- age, pounds. Class 1 630, 141, 468 104, 609, 737 898, 425, 138 64, 629, 893 10, 729, 204 92, 146, 168 Class3 1,633,176,333 167, 505, 265 The average annual imports for the first period of the decade were 126,491,930 pounds; in the second, 272,423,083 pounds; and in the third, 117,662,498 pounds. The average for the decade was 167,505,265 pounds, a quantity more than 60,000,000 pounds in excess of the average importations under the law of 1883. By far the greater part of the increased impor- tations was of class 1 wools. IMPORTS OF WOOL GOODS. The imports of wool goods show a similar increase. The annual average for the first period was $31,102,288 in value; for the second, 147,342,664. The very large imports of this period were followed by much smaller imports than usual, and in the third period the annual average amounted to only $14,186,264. The imports of wool goods for these periods by years were as follows, values only being given, as quantities of certain kinds of goods are not obtainable: Nine months ending June 30, 1891 $24, 204, 780 Year ending June 30, 1892 35,565,879 Year ending June 30, 1893 38,048,515 Year ending June 30, 1894 19,439,372 July and August 1894 4,558,747 Total 121,817,293 Annual average 31, 102, 288 Ten months ending June 30, 1895 31, 981, 143 Year ending June 30, 1896 53,494,400 Year ending June 30, 1897 49, 162, 992 July, 1897 - 3,444,234 Total : 138,082,769 Annual average 47, 342, 664 Eleven months ending June 30, 1898 - ; 11, 379, 537 Year ending June 30, 1899 13,832,621 Year ending June 30, 1900 16,164,446 Total 41,376,604 Annual average 14, 186, 264 RANK OF STATES IN WOOL MANUFACTURE ACCORDING TO VALUE OF PRODUCT. Table 4 shows the rank of the 10 states having the greatest value of product in the wool manufacture, and their relative rank in each of the various branches, 1890 and 1900. Table 4=.— WOOL MANUFACTURE— BANK OF STATES, BY VALUE OF PBODUCTS: 1890 AND 1900. TOTAL, ALL BRANCHES. WOOLEN GOODS. WORSTED GOODS. States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 Massachusetts . Pennsylvania.. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 $81, 041, 537 71, 878, 503 38, 671, 879 30, 813, 339 13, 793, 144 13, 412, 784 12, 637, 032 7, 624, 062 2, 572, 646 1, 517, 194 2 1 3 4 7 8 5 6 10 16 $67, 599, 321 72, 393, 182 32, 204, 629 28, 563, 569 8, 528, 070 7, 521, 317 13, 733, 895 10, 769, 240 2, 723, 683 1, 216, 419 Massachusetts. Pennsylvania . 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 $30, 888, 104 25, 389, 344 11, 633, 232 8, 097, 218 7, 624, 062 6, 715, 005 5, 330, 550 4, 755, 393 2, 672, 646 1, 517, 194 1 2 6 4 5 8 3 7 10 16 $35, 771, 161 29, 878, 010 7,521,317 9, 082, 493 8, 004, 264 5, 188, 020 9, 884, 945 5, 652, 166 2, 723, 683 1, 216, 419 Massachusetts Rhode Island . Pennsylvania. New Jersey ... New York. Connecticut .. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 $40, 557, 363 33, 341, 329 22, 109, 392 6, 823, 721 5, 958, 259 4, 539, 814 1, 779, 652 ( 3 ) 2 1 3 7 4 5 6 $21,933,775 22, 319, 684 17, 861, 776 2, 058, 662 5, 763, 102 4, 651, 402 2, 764, 976 New York New Jersey Connecticut .. N. Hampshire. New York Rhode Island . New Jersey . . . Vermont Tennessee Connecticut ... N. Hampshire.. Vermont Tennessee N. Hampshire. CARPETS AND RUGS, OTHER THAN RAG. FELT GOOD8. WOOL HATS. States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 States. Rank. 1900 Rank. 1890 Pennsylvania.. New York Massachusetts . New Jersey 1 2 3 4 $23, 113, 058 15, 029, 218 6, 966, 237 1, 522, 827 1 2 3 4 $22,886,416 14, 606, 116 7,275,009 817, 242 New York Massachusetts New Jersey . . . Pennsylvania. Ohio 1 2 3 4 $1, 734, 136 1, 526, 830 691,203 160, 633 ( 3 ) 1 2 4 3 $1,517,199 918, 890 322, 800 406, 700 New York Pennsylvania . Massachusetts 1 2 3 $1, 376, 721 1,106,076 1,103,003 2 3 1 $1,489,132 1,444,180 1, 700, 486 i This tahle does not include statistics of establishments under 3 in the various subdivisions, and the totals, therefore, are less than in the detailed statements at the end of this report. 2 Included in ' ' all other states ' ' in 1890. 3 Included in "all other states" in 1900. In total value of products Massachusetts led in 1900, with a product valued at $81,041,537; it was second in 1890. Pennsylvania, first in 1890, was second in 1900, with $71,878,503. No other state approached these two. Rhode Island was third in rank — the same position it held in 1890 — with a product somewhat less than half that of Massachusetts, followed by New York, with a product not quite half that of Pennsylvania. New Jersey, Maine, and Connecticut were very close together, with but little over $1,000,000 difference in the value of their products. New Hampshire was eighth, with products of $7,624,062. Vermont had $2,572,646, and Tennessee $1,517,194. These 10 states were the pro- ducers of nearly 70 per cent of the total wool manufac- WOOL. 79 tures of the United States. Their relative standing in the various branches differs from their standing in the combined industry. In the manufacture of woolen goods Massachusetts was first as in 1890 and Pennsylvania sec- ond. Maine, Connecticut, and New Hampshire, which ranked sixth, seventh, and eighth in total value, were third, fourth, and fifth, respectively, in woolen goods. New York was sixth and Ehode Island seventh. In worsted manufactures Massachusetts remained in the lead, with products valued at $40,557,363, followed by Rhode Island, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Maine, in the order named. In the carpet manufacture Pennsylvania ranked first, as in 1890, with products valued at $23,113,058, followed by New York with $15,029,218. Massachusetts was third with $6,966,237, and New Jersey fourth. The manufacture of felts was carried on in 36 establishments, all but 11 of which were in the states of New York, Massachusetts, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. New York held first rank, closely followed by Massachusetts. The wool hat manufacture was carried on principally in New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts; New York leading in production, with a value of $1,376,721, and Massachu- setts coming last, with products valued at $1,103,003. The three states were almost on a level in this branch. The following is the rank of the three leading cities in the wool manufacture, 1890 and 1900: RANK OF THREE LEADING CITIES ACCORDING TO. VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1880 TO 1900. 1900 1890 1880 Rank. Value of products. Rank. Value of products. Rank. 1 2 3 $56, 672, 007 25, 584, 744 18, 375, 776 1 3 2 $73, 713, 856 10,431,192 18,237,531 1 2 3 Table 5.— MACHINERY OF WOOL MANUFACTURE: TO 1900. 1880 1900 1890 1880 PEE CENT OF INCREASE. CLASSES. 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 6,605 1,451 3,511,099 74, 190 7,015 839 2, 793, 147 69, 658 6,989 515 2,111,973 57,297 15.8 72.9 25.7 6.5 0.4 Combing machines 62.9 32.3 21.6 1 Decrease. While the number of cards reported in 1900 was 6,605, against 7,015 in 1890 — a decrease of 410, or 5.8 per cent — the number of combing machines in 1900 was 1,415, against 839 in 1890, or an increase of 72.9 per cent. Assuming that a combing machine is equal in productive capacity to 2£ sets of cards, and stating the elementary productive machinery on the card basis, the year 1900 shows the equivalent of 10,143 sets of cards, against 9,113 in 1890, an increase of 11.3 per cent in productive capacity. The increase in machinery capac- ity has been accompanied with a corresponding increase in the quantity of raw material consumed and of goods produced. The cost of materials used has increased 8-3 per cent and the value of products 9.8 per cent. In the decade 1880-1890, the number of cards in- creased 0.4 per cent, and of combs 62.9 per cent. A similar calculation to that above shows the increase in productive capacity in that decade to have been 16.4 per cent, a ratio of increase somewhat greater than that of the last decade. An examination of the increase by spindles and looms exhibits a much greater differ- ence. The percentage of increase in spindles was 25.7 from 1890 to 1900, and 32.3 from 1880 to 1890. In looms the increase was 6.5 and 21.6 per cent, respect- ively. None of these percentages of increase, however, cor- rectly measure the increase of manufacturing capacity. Improvements in machinery and appliances, and in- creased size of machines, added very considerably to the increased capacity of the latter period. It is safe to say, in a general way, that as a result of the various improvements, up-to-date machinery will, on the same class of work, produce 10 per cent more than was pos- sible ten years ago. l CARDING MILLS. Table 6 presents the statistics of the custom carding mills. 1 The improvements in woolen and worsted looms have been many and varied during the past ten years, facilitating not only an increased production by reason of the higher speed at which it is possible and profitable to operate the loom, but owing also to the various devices embodied in their construction, which aid materi- ally in the ease with which they handle the warp and filling. While ten years ago broad woolen looms were operated in a few instances up to 100 picks per minute, to-day looms of a similar type can be run at from 115 to 120 picks, and in some special cases where the loom has been especially designed for producing a par- ticular class of work, a speed of 140 to 150 picks per minute has been found to give very satisfactory results. Crompton & Knowles Loom Works. Charles F. Hutchins, President. Worcester, Mass., December S3, 1901. 80 MANUFACTURES. Table 6.— WOOL CARDING— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, BY STATES: 1890 AND 1900. Year. Number of estab- lish- ments. Capital. WAGE-EARNERS. Miscella- neous ex- penses. ■ Cost of materials used. Value of products. STATES. Average number. Total wages. United States 1900 1890 231 193 $458,286 385,411 140 H16 $33, 106 1 61, 618 $10, 480 13,802 $395, 116 332,650 $534,512 476, 278 1900 1890 9 5 8,175 6,825 5 7 843 1,465 225 123 14, 664 3,489 20, 163 5,180 1900 1890 11 3 15,025 11,635 6 4 930 1,237 258 262 16, 148 7,085 21, 930 9,250 1900 1S90 9 3 7,111 3,025 6 5 835 600 103 129 7,761 5,173 11, 547 7,200 21900 1890 7 36, 765 32 3,451 912 17, 280 23,738 21900 1890 3 4,700 7 2,000 106 11,052 14, 500 1900 1890 23 15 17, 067 23, 156 15 39 2,406 5,075 500 952 34,827 46, 894 42,401 62,92, 1900 1890 20 16 56, 483 65, 050 13 32 4,478 8,164 1,174 2,182 48, 126 41,819 65, 155 64,633 31900 1890 10 18, 295 26 4,186 888 19, 931 29, 109 1900 1S90 5 6 13,650 11, 475 2 23 600 3,950 483 1,166 13, 666 14,422 18, 350 20, 951 2 1900 1890 3 3,200 5 1,150 55 4,575 6,260 1900 1890 17 12 33,455 21, 799 13 23 2, 689 2, 003 510 1,007 35,923 14, 819 46,927 21, 530 21900 1890 4 5,925 9 1,240 315 8,443 12,200 1900 1890 16 21 22, 016 54,475 2 33 450 4,871 729 1,142 19, 967 23, 126 27, 869 33, 822 1900 1890 9 13 7,943 10,810 2 23 242 2,071 51 397 5,313 12, 240 6,824 17, 911 1900 1890 3 7 11, 700 14, 020 3 25 649 3,125 282 705 4,293 7,397 5,984 11,763 1900 1890 26 14 96,556 25, 233 11 21 3,208 2,843 1,369 877 39, 843 16, 782 56,266 24,500 1900 1S90 33 19 65, 919 17, 953 34 33 6,861 4,366 2,219 467 60, 747 27, 832 85, 890 38,135 1900 1890 8 12,990 8,585 122 795 6, 722 9,133 8,470 9 1,650 12,783 1900 1S90 4 5 10, 740 16,010 2 9 617 1,477 165 268 9,935 5,816 12,359 9,300 1900 1890 12 7 8,337 10, 190 3 15 725 1,450 236 88 15,258 9,943 17, 946 13, 770 1900 1890 15 5 53, 194 9,555 21 15 7,318 2,169 1,740 615 49, 318 6,035 69, 511 9,305 1900 1890 11 8 17, 925 16,730 21 255 3,075 314 351 12, 605 19, 364 16,920 27,528 1 Includes tor 1890 proprietors and firm members, salaried officials, clerks, etc., with their salaries, it being impossible to segregate these classes from wage- earners for that census. - Included in " all other states." 3 No establishments reported. 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Connecticut, 1: Illinois, 1: Indiana, 1; Iowa, 1; Mississippi, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Oregon, 2; South Carolina, 1; Texas, 1. 1890— Illinois, 2; Maryland, 1; Massachusetts, 1; Oregon, 1; South Carolina, 1; Texas, 1; Utah, 1. These carding mills are small concerns, generally operating the simplest kind of a carding machine, usualty 24 inches in width. On this machine are made wool rolls for use in the household spinning industry from wool brought to the card by farmers in the neighbor- hood. This wool is frequently carded on shares; often the trade is by barter, payment being made in yarn or cloth, if the mill possesses also spinning and weaving apparatus. The carding mill is a branch of the wool manufacture which is passing away, notwithstanding the fact that the census of 1900 revealed a larger number of establishments than in 1890, with an increased capital and value of products. This result was due to a closer canvass, and possibly to the classification of some small establishments as carding mills, which were not so reported in 1890. Great difficulty was experienced in obtaining satisfactory statements from these mills. They are usually conducted by the proprietor, aided by members of his family, no accounts being kept, the mill being in operation only at such times as meet the requirements of customers. The quantity of wool used by carding mills was very considerable in 1900, amounting to 1,510,025 pounds, costing $375,469. The products consisted mostly of rolls and bats, valued at 1534,512. For the benefit of the historian of a vanishing indus- WOOL. 81 try, two trade circulars received with the reports of the mills — one from North Carolina, the other from West Virginia — 'are here reproduced. 1 The information they furnish relative to the quantity of wool required for the production of the goods made in carding mills, which are such as were made by the mills everywhere in the early days of the country, is interesting. So also is the list of prices charged for work, and the sugges- tions as to the methods of receiving stock, delivering goods, and credits. 1 WOOL. The undersigned wishes to inform the public that he still has control of the Maekwood Woolen Mill, at MARTIN, GRANT COUNTY, W. VA. And will manufacture Wool on the halves, or will work for cash at the following prices: Blankets, $2.50 to $3.50 per pair; Cassinet, Cloth and Full Lin- sey, 30c. per yard; Flannel and Linsey, 25c. per yard; Stocking Yarn, 20c. to 25c. per pound; Single Yarn, 12£c. to 20c. per pound; Fulling, 10c. to 12£c. per yard; Carding Rolls, 5Jc. per pound, if greased; if not greased, 6c. per pound; Batting, 5c. per pound. Persons living at a distance from the mill may leave their wool at either of the wool stands named below, and 1 will haul the wool to the mill and return the rolls or goods free of charge. Thanking our many customers for past patronage, and soliciting a continuance of the same, I wish to state that I am prepared to do good work and will guarantee satisfaction. Respectfully, Jas. C. Billmyre. Wool may be left at Martin, W. Va., April 10, 1901. Alpine Woolen Mills, Mount Airy, N. C, Manufacture Cassimers, Jeans, Linseys, Flannels, Blankets, and Yarns. Custom work a specialty. Carding and spinning 10 cents per pound Carding and spinning and doubling and twist- ing 15 cents per pound Coloring wool — black, gray, or brown 5 cents per pound Coloring yarns or wool — re'd, blue, or green. . . 10 cents per pound Making rough jeans 25 cents per yard Making fulled and finished jeans 30 cents per yard Making all-wool cassimer 40 cents per yard Making all-woo 1 flannel 20 cents per yard Making linseys, cotton warp ; 18 cents per yard Making flannel, cotton warp 15 cents per yard Making bed blankets ?2.50 per pair COMPARISON OF MILLS BY SETS OF CARDS. A well-developed trend away from the card wool manufacture has long been recognized, but it remained for the census of 1900 to present, in a succinct form, the facts that should give some indication of the extent of this change. The report on wool manufactures for the Eleventh Census called attention to the tendency toward larger establishments, and presented a table showing the number of mills reporting cards, arranged according to the number of cards operated. Table 7 is a comparative summary of these statistics for 1890 and 1900. Making bed blankets, red, etc . . Making striped buggy blankets . $3.00 per pair $1.25 per pair Ten pounds clean, washed wool will make 9 pounds custom single yarn. One pound clean, washed wool will make 1 yard all-wool cassimer. One pound clean, washed wool will make 1 i yards any kind of jeans. One pound clean, washed wool will make 2\ yards any kind of linsey. One pound clean, washed wool will make 1 J yards all-wool flannel. Eight pounds clean, washed wool will make 1 pair blankets. Unwashed wool will lose one-third to one-half in washing, and sometimes, if burry, it will lose more than this. We would prefer people sending altogether washed wool, as it would save the freight on so much dirt, burrs, etc., though this is optional with them. We will pay freight on all wool shipped to us in lots over fifty pounds; less than fifty pounds the customer must prepay freight, or we will pay it and charge it up in bill of work. Don't ship wool by express, as we will not pay express rates, and you can not afford to pay them. Always be very careful to put your own name and post-office on every package of your wool, both inside and out- side of the package, and you can not be too careful in writing your orders to us for what you want made of it. Order always by the number of the goods on the sample sheet. Don't order goods not on sample sheet, as we send samples of all we make every year, except blankets and yarns; then it is quite enough to say spin or make blankets, and name the kind or color. It would be best for customers ordering goods made to give a second choice, as we may sometimes be out of one kind of goods, and then we could send another much sooner. We carry insurance for the benefit of our customers, but when we put their goods in the station our responsibility ends. We have not the pleasure of an acquaintance with all our customers, and we ship small bills of work collect on delivery to their near- est express office, unless otherwise ordered. We have greatly improved our mill this year, and we shall from time to time add new machinery to keep up with our work. Thanking our many friends and customers for their liberal patronage in the past, we hope to have many new ones this year. Yours, very truly, Alpine Woolen Mills, M. J. Hawkins, Proprietor. Mount Airy, N. C, March 1, 1900. Table 7.— WOOL MANUFACTURES: NUMBER OF MVLLS ACCORDING TO SETS OF CARDS: 1890 AND 1900. GEOGRAPHICAL DrVISIONS. Year. Number report- ing sets of cards. 1 set. 2 sets. 3 sets. 4 sets. 5 sets. 6 sets. 7 sets. 8 sets. 9 sets. 10 to 15 sets. 15 to 20 sets. 20 sets and over. Card- ing mills. 1900 1890 976 1,468 139 347 13 47 36 120 37 57 63 123 119 221 76 131 81 107 46 66 51 80 34 36 40 58 22 22 69 106 31 44 37 57 231 193 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 344 504 233 466 206 197 193 301 25 49 27 78 25 38 42 56 25 44 20 53 15 10 16 24 46 53 19 34 8 8 8 12 25 34 14 22 2 2 5 8 24 39 19 34 19 26 9 6 2 30 33 6 17 1 4 7 15 16 4 6 1 2 46 72 17 25 1 5 5 4 25 26 5 17 1 1 20 37 15 18 2 1 1 31 28 42 36 113 75 s 7 4 4 45 54 MON- -TEXT- 82 MANUFACTURES. The comparison thus established brings to light some noteworthy facts. At the census of 1890, 1,468 mills reported sets of cards, of which 193 were carding mills. There were 568 mills with only 1 or 2 sets of cards; 238, with 3 and 4 sets; 146, with 5 and 6 sets; 222, with from 7 to 15 sets, 106 of these reporting 10 to 15 sets (the ma- jority of this number, however, operated only 10 to 12 sets); and 101 mills with over 15 sets, of which 57 establishments had 20 sets of cards and over. At the census of 1900 only 976 establishments reported cards, of which 231 were carding mills; 258 were 1 and 2 set mills; 157, 3 and 4 set; 97, 5 and 6 set; 165, 7 to 15 set; and 68, 15 sets and over, 37 of these having 20 sets and over. From these statements it appears that the local 1 and 2 set mill is passing out of existence, following in the wake of the custom carding mill of earlier days. The 3 and 4 set mills were also largely reduced in number, the larger numerical loss being in the smaller mills. In the 5 and 6 set mills the reverse was the case, the greater loss both in number and percentage being in the 6 set establishments, which is perhaps accounted for by the fact that the 5 set mill presents better opportunities for economy in management. The group of mills operating from 7 to 15 sets of cards is the one where the least change would naturally be expected, for it is well understood by woolen manu- facturers that a 10 set mill, or one nearly approaching it, is in certain lines of manufacture the most econom- ical of operation, as it requires no larger number of high- priced men, superintendents, second hands, etc., than a mill with only 5 or 6 sets. In the mills running from 7 to 9 sets there appears a reduction of only 20. In the remainder of this group, the mills having from 10 to 15 sets, and in the mills with 15 sets and over, the decrease has been very great— 37 in the former and 33 in the latter. The principal causes of decrease are found in the failure of old and important establishments and the breaking up of their plants and the transfer of many large mills to the worsted branch. The substitution of knit garments for flannels has also been a factor of no small importance. These changes have not been confined to any one section, but, as will be seen by the table, have occurred in much the same ratio throughout the country. THE CARD WOOL MANUFACTURE. The following statement shows the number of sets of cards in the woolen mills in the United States and in each state, arranged according to the width of main cylinder or swift. A similar statement showing the data for the hosiery and knit goods manufacture will be found under the proper head. NUMBER AND WIDTH OF CARDS IN WOOL MANUFACTURES, BY STATES: 1900. Number of sets, width reported. NUMBER OF CARDS OF EACH WIDTH REPORTED. STATES. 24 inches. 30 inches. 36 inches. 40 inches. 42 inches. 44 inches. 46 inches. 48 inches. 54 inches. 60 inches. 72 inches. 85 inches. Miscel- laneous. 6,498 290 126 56 1,176 23 133 67 3,372 22 1,136 29 27 41 8 17 30 450 13 32 1 52 92 27 2 58 437 47 1,658 52 38 26 37 341 208 748 32 2 77 35 1,149 402 1 99 4 17 124 53 57 72 7 9 1 7 1 1 30 291 2 18 1 30 54 11 2 9 225 870 36 8 18 12 141 115 511 6 1 i 94 6 23 27 11 9 4 3 1 1 1 5 3 1 1 1 17 15 13 2 15 2 25 18 6 29 5 3 13 2 3 5 1 6 o 129 17 35 34 157 1 14 2 3 5 4 8 2 2 2 410 10 19 5 75 66 22 2 12 8 11 3 3 3 54 34 4 2 15 3 177 2 124 4 4 5 1 1 6 2 3 25 39 14 21 2 2 4 4 1 62 5 1 12 5 17 4 26 53 2 31 29 441 301 1 2 1 3 593 45 1 4 28 5 6 3 18 33 4 | 1 15 10 12 12 16 78 13 12 36 I 8 1 13 11 7 16 9 4 6 10 7 7 8 1 1 WOOL. 83 Table 8 shows carding machine^, by states, 1870 to 1900. The percentage of cards in the principal states re- mains but little changed in the ten years. The New England states, except Vermont and Maine, have each lost slightly, as compared with the total number of cards, but in no case does this loss exceed 1.3 per cent. New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey have each gained a trifle, but all the others show a relative loss. New England has maintained its superiority, having 3,427 sets, and of these Massachusetts had 1,594; the relative importance of this state in number of cards varies but very little from either 1880 or 1890. The same is true of the other leading states. New York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey together had 2,217 sets. In the nine states mentioned were located most of the mills of 4 sets and over, and together they had 5,644 sets, leaving only 9(31 for the rest of the United States. Indiana, which in 1890 had 135 sets, in 1900 had 92. In Ohio the number was reduced from 104 to 78 and in Illinois from 57 to 40. Exclusive of the states named the number was practically unchanged. The general tables show gains in some of the remaining states and losses in others, which counterbalance each other, and were governed by local causes. As the wool-growing interest becomes relatively of less importance in the farming sections of the East and Middle West, and transportation facilities increase, the neighborhood mills established originally because of their contiguity to the source of supply gradually fall into disuse, overshad- owed by the establishments of greater capacity, capital, and credit in the more eastern sections. Table 8.— CARDING MACHINERY, BY STATES: 1870 TO 1900. United States Massachusetts Pennsylvania New York Rhode Island Connecticut New Hampshire... Maine New Jersey Vermont Ohio Indiana Illinois In above 12 states . All other states li)00 Number of cards (sets). 6,605 424 357 116 2S7 57 34 19 207 124 78 92 46 5,860 745 Per cent of total. 29.2 24. 6 8.0 19.8 3.9 2.4 1.3 3.1 1.9 1.2 1.4 0.7 88.7 11.3 Number of cards (sets). 7,015 265 188 84 193 27 29 5 202 120 104 135 57 6,216 799 Per cent of total. 31.5 22.4 10.0 23.0 3.2 3.5 0.0 2.9 1.7 1.5 1.9 0.8 88.6 11.4 18S0 Number of cards (sets). 190 121 80 70 21 21 in' 145 1X2 160 106 5,955 1,034 Per cent of total. 36.0 23.5 15.5 13.6 4.1 4.1 2." 3' 2.1 2.6 2.3 1.5 85.2 14.8 Number of cards (sets). 8,705 172 29 1 7 34 12 335 98 177 334 316 250 6,868 1,837 Per cent of total. 100.0 65. 9 11.1 0.4 2.7 13.0 4.6 3.9 1.1 2.0 3.8 4.0 2.9 78.9 21.1 THE WORSTED MANUFACTURE. Reference has been made to the rapid transition from the carded to the combed wool manufacture. Previous to 1865 the products of the worsted industry were con- fined mainly to furniture stuffs and light goods for women's wear. Between that date and 1870 several establishments began the manufacture of cloths for men's wear, 1 and from that time dates the great worsted industry in the United States. Table 9 shows the num- ber of combing machines, by states, 1870 to 1900, with the proportion each state had of the total. 1 Eleventh Census of the United States, Manufactures, Vol. Ill, page 57. Table 9.— NUMBER OF COMBING MACHINES, BY STATES: 1870 TO 1900. 1!)00 1890 1880 1870 STATES. Number of combs. Per cent of total. Number of combs. Per cent of total. Number of combs. Per cent of total. Number of combs. Per cent of total. Total 1,451 100.0 839 100.0 515 100.0 261 100.0 424 357 287 128 116 57 34 19 1,422 29 29.2 24.6 19.8 8.8 8.0 3.9 2.4 1.3 98.0 2.0 265 188 193 29 84 27 29 5 820 19 31.5 22.4 23.0 3.5 10.0 3.2 3.5 0.6 97.7 2.3 190 121 70 9 80 21 21 36.9 23.5 13.6 1.7 15. 5 4.1 4.1 172 29 7 6 1 34 12 65.9 11.1 2.7 2.3 4 13 4.6 512 3 99.4 0.6 261 100 From a total of 261 combs reported in 1870 the indus- try has grown till, in 1900, 1,451 were employed, the increase being 97.3 per cent between 1870 and 1880, 62.9 per cent between 1880 and 1890, and 72.'.) per cent between 1890 and 1900. Astonishing as the percentage statements are they do not furnish so clear an idea of 84 MANUFACTURES. this phenomenal growth as ao the actual figures. In 1870, 261 combs were employed; by 1880, 254 had been added, and by 1890, 324 more, making a total of 839. At the census of 1900 this number had increased by 612 combs during the decade, making the total 1,451, nearly 5f times the whole number employed in 1870. The substitution of the worsted cassimere and coating for the woolen cassimere, doeskin, broadcloth, and similar fabrics has been the prime cause of the decrease in the card-wool manufacture. In 1900 Massachusetts led in the worsted manufacture as at previous censuses, its gain in number of machines during the decade being 159. Pennsylvania, which ranked third in 1890, in- creased from 188 to 357, and held the second place. Rhode Island, which was second in 1890 with 193 machines, ranked third in 1900, although its total in- creased to 287. New Jersey was next with 128, having added 99 since 1890. New York added 32 machines and ranked fifth, with 116 combs. No other state approaches these 5 in magnitude in this industry. Connecticut, New Hampshire, and Maine together had 110 combs, an increase of 49 since 1890, when they reported 61. In all the other states the additions were only 10. The preceding statements make it apparent that the states possessing the greatest amount of wool carding machinery also possessed the bulk of the combing machines. The following tabular statement shows the capacity of the principal manufacturing states in 1900 and 1890, on the assumption of the equality of 2£ sets of cards to 1 comb in productive power: PRODUCTIVE MACHINERY (CARDS AND COMBS) RE- DUCED TO THE CARD BASIS. United States Massachusetts Pennsylvania Rhode Island New York ■Connecticut New Jersey Maine New Hampshire — All other states DATE OF CENSUS. Number of cards (sets). 10, 232 2, 654 2,154 1, 195 1,038 C02 527 484 420 1,158 Per cent of total. 100.0 25.9 21.1 11.7 10.1 5.9 5.2 4.7 4.1 11.3 1890 Number of cards (sets). 9,112 2,448 453 1,263 Per cent of total. 26.9 18.9 11.4 10.0 6.6 3.0 4.4 4.9 13.9 The table demonstrates the continued superiority of the 4 states, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, and New York, in the order named, in the wool manu- facture. These 4 states together operated 67.2 per cent of the total productive machinery in 1890, and in 1900 operated 68.8 per cent. SPINDLES. According to the fiber employed or the yarn to be produced, the spindles employed in wool manufactures are divided into 3 groups — woolen, worsted, and cotton. The total number of spindles reported was 3,511,099, an increase of 717,952, or 25.7 per cent over 1890. Of the whole number, 2,031,028 were woolen spindles, 1,325,255 worsted spindles, and 154,816 cotton spindles. The following statement shows the distribution of the spindles in the mills in 1900 and 1890: COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF SPINDLES, 1890 AND 1900. WOOLEN. WORSTED. COTTON. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 Woolen mills Worsted mills Carpet mills 1,789,683 150, 026 67, 033 24, 286 1,742,288 207, 180 53, 046 13, 829 65, 762 1, 125, 644 133, 849 19,750 479, 675 151, 132 51, 136 95, 356 8,324 53,342 68,225 4,680 Total 2, 031, 028 2,016,343 1, 325, 255 650, 557 154, 816 126, 247 The statement shows a reduction in the number of woolen spindles in worsted mills, occasioned by the removal of many of them and the substitution of worsted spindles. In the woolen, the carpet, and the felt mills, the gain in number was more than sufficient to offset the losses in the worsted mills. The net gain in woolen spindles was 14,685. The average number of woolen spindles to the card in 1890 was 287. In 1900 the average number to the card was 307. In worsted spindles the number more than doubled. This increase was not confined to the worsted mills, for the woolen mills also added materially to their capacity for the manufacture of worsted yarns. In the worsted mills the increase has been 645,969 spindles, or 134.7 per cent, and the total increase of worsted spindles is 674,698, or 103.7 per cent. Improvements in quality of goods, requiring higher counts of yarn, have made necessary a proportionately larger number of spindles. In 1890 the average number of worsted spindles to a comb was 775; in 1900 it was 913. The difference may be, in some measure, accounted for by the increased efficiency of the comb, the result of improvements. In cotton spindles there has also been an increase over the number in 1890 of 28,569 spindles, or 22.6 per cent. The increase was mostly in the worsted mills, where a large quantity of cotton yarn was produced for use in cotton-warp dress goods. DOUBLING SPINDLES. For the first time in the census reports the separation of spindles into spinning and doubling spindles has been attempted. In 1890 an estimate of the number of doub- ling spindles, based upon the proportion existing in Great Britain, was made. It was supposed that the rela- tive proportion would be about the same here as there. No later statistics of spindles in Great Britain are avail- able than those of 1889, when the woolen mills had 3,107,209 spinning spindles and 299,793 doubling spin- dles, and the worsted mills, 2,402,922 spinning and 069,328 doubling spindles. The spindle capacity of the WOOL. 85 United States ten years ago was less than one-half that of Great Britain. In woolen spindles the United States has made some advance during the decade, but is at least as far behind Great Britain now as in 1890. It also appears that a much larger proportion of single yarns is used here, for while the spindles of British manufacturers were then in the ratio of 1 doubling to 10.36 spinning; the number in the United States now averages 1 to 22.46, which is less than one-half of the proportion in the British mills. In worsted spindles the proportion in Great Britain in 1889 accords fairly well with the present census returns. The ratio then wcs 1 doubling to 3.59 spinning spindles, while the mills of the United States now report 351,550 doubling spindles, and 994,889 spinning spindles, a ratio of 1 to 2.83. PRODUCTIVE CAPACITY. It had been hoped that it would be possible to fix upon some standard of capacity in the wool manufac- ture that would compare favorably with the spindle, which is used as the measure in the cotton manufacture. The card has been used as the standard heretofore, but owing to variations in size and in productive power dependent on the quality of stock and the number or size of the yarn, it is very unsatisfactory. Cards range from 24 inches to 72 inches in width, with occasionally one of even greater width, and vary almost as greatly in diameter. The spindle, both woolen and worsted, mule or ring, is unsatisfactory also, for its product is dependent on the number of yarn and quality of stock and whether it is for warp or weft, warp requiring a much harder twist than weft. The letter below indi- cates the difficulty involved, as well as the apparent impossibility of arriving at a suitable standard of meas urement of productive capacity. 1 IDLE CAPITAL AND MACHINERY. Until the Eleventh Census no attempt was made to separate the idle from the active machinery in the wool manufacture. Previously, idle establishments were re- ported with those in active operation. In 1890, 267 factories, with 612 sets of cards and 35 combs, were not in operation during the census year. The number of idle. sets of cards was equal to 6.9 per cent of the total number of cards reported both in operation and idle. The number of idle combs equaled 3.9 per cent of the total number. Table 10 shows the idle capital and machinery for 1900. 1 There has been a considerable increase in the productive capac- ity of carding machines aside from that obtained by the increased surface of the more modern cards. Among the various factors which contribute to this, we mention the substitution of tempered steel wire clothing for iron, the use of double apron condensers in place of roll rubs, the improvements in automatic feeds, and also to a certain degree in the larger number of ends, thereby keeping the carding machines up to the full amount of stock which the wire will carry without overloading, and keeping the speed of the ring doners within reasonable limits. The improved methods of construction of modern cards also admit of uniform setting, and also very considerably reduce the stoppage of the machines for repairs, etc. There has been a very considerable increase in the size of carding machines within the last twenty years. Where formerly many of them were built 40 inches wide, 42 inches diameter, now it is a very rare thing to build a card smaller than 48 inches wide by 48 inches diameter, and a large percentage of them are built with the main cylinders 60 inches in diameter and 48 inches wide, while quite a few are built 60 inches wide by 48 inches diameter, and some few of them 60 inches wide by 60 inches diameter. We are unable to give you the information you desire in regard to basis upon which to estimate the production of mills from the number of spindles. We should like very much to obtain this in- formation ourselves, but it seems very difficult, if not impossible, to get an accurate basis upon which to estimate. Davis & Furber Machine Company. North Andover, Mass. , January 28, 1902. Table lO.— IDLE CAPITAL AND MACHINERY, BY STATES: 1900. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. CAPITAL. MACHINERY. STATES. Total. Land. Buildings. Machinery, tools, and imple- ments. Cash and sundries. Sets of cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Spindles. Looms. Total 117 H, 632, 666 $668,542 $1, 347, 698 $1, 791, 207 $826, 219 338 28 Ill, 889 3,129 4 4 6 3 6 5 18 3 4 3 8 6 20 6 3 3 15 49, 800 44,850 123,650 16, 500 1,095,060 246,600 1, 474, 800 8,400 303, 350 87, 539 166, 775 33,300 265,100 524, 600 3,725 13, 370 186, 247 6,300 6,350 19, 150 900 119, 140 20, 600 229, 532 1,450 67, 000 10, 000 19, 200 9,500 19,480 116, 600 . 210 3,500 19, 730 23,000 12, 800 44,800 4,700 230, 100 69,000 494, 683 2,100 83, 000 23, 246 38,800 8,500 67,580 180, 000 1,115 4,000 60, 274 20, 500 26,700 54,000 9,000 362,462 126,000 652, 121 2,000 100, 734 43,887 74,300 13, 000 91, 400 228, 100 2,300 4,000 81, 703 12 15 17 6 39 9 90 4 38 3 11 5 1,400 6,520 6,198 1,804 20, 598 2,500 28,734 1,340 11,080 81 241 5,700 1,900 383, 358 30,000 198, 464 2,850 52, 616 10, 406 34,475 2,300 76, 640 83 20 838 161 909 8 209 72 22 7 6 46 4 3 20 9 4,410 1,010 2,044 18, 012 560 680 4,999 47 29 21 256 100 1,870 24,540 13 9 132 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Arkansas, 2; Kansas, 1; Maryland, 1; Virginia, 1; Washington, 1; West Virginia, 2; Wisconsin, 2. Missouri, 1; Nebraska, 1; South Carolina, 1; Texas, 1; Utah, 1; 86 MANUFACTURES. The returns for 1900 show 338 sets of cards and 28 combs idle, equal to 5.1 per cent of the total number of cards and 1.9 per cent of the total number of combs. The idle spindles equaled in 1890, 5.1 per cent, and in 1900, 3.2 per cent of the total number. The idle looms were 4.1 per cent of the total looms in 1890 and 4.2 per cent in 1900. While these percentages indicate that the machinery in the wool manufacture was more fully employed in 1900 than in 1890, it must not be over- looked that they relate only to mills that were idle during the whole of the census year. The reports of the active mills indicate a large amount of lost time. The capital of the idle mills was reported as $4,632,666, of which $825,219 was in cash, unsettled accounts, etc., designated as live capital. The value of the plants was $3,807,447. The average fixed capital per establish- ment was $32,542. The idle mills were located as follows: 40 in New England, 32 in the Middle states, 16 in the South, and 29 in the Western and Pacific states. Of the 40 in New England, 18 were in Massachusetts, with 90 sets of cards and a total capital of $1,095,060; 6 were in Rhode Island and had 46 sets of cards and 9 combs, with a capital of $524,600; 4 were in Connecticut; 4 were in New Hampshire; and 3 in Vermont. The 11 mills last named reported a total capital of $366,520, with 53 sets of cards. In the Middle states, Pennsylvania had the greatest number of idle plants, 20, with onl\ T 6 sets of cards, and a capital of $255,100. New York was next with 8 establishments, having 20 sets of cards, and a capital of $166,775. New Jersey had 3, with capital amounting to $87,539, but no preparatory machinery. In the Southern and Western groups, Kentucky had the largest amount of capital in idle mills. The states named possessed the greater part of the idle machinery, having 256 sets of cards and 20 combs, leaving only 82 sets of cards and 8 combs for all the others. POWER. The power, both steam and water, employed in the wool manufacture, increased 71,898 horsepower, or 35.5 per cent, during the decade ending in 1900. In the preceding decade the actual increase was 62,306 horse- power, about seven-eighths as much, although the per- centage was 44.5. The carded wool manufacture shows an increase of 17,421 horsepower, or 14.3 per cent. The worsted manufacture in this, as in other particu- lars, shows the greatest increase, 48,266 horsepower, or 98.3 per cent. In 1890 this branch of the industry increased 32,680 horsepower, or 198.8 per cent over 1880. The horsepower in the carpet manufacture in- creased 18.8 per cent in 1900, and in the felt mills 57.8 per cent, while in the wool hat manufacture there was a decrease of 966 "horsepower, or 29.3 per cent. A more significant fact than the increase of the total horsepower employed is the increased efficiency of machinery which is indicated in the column of " Horse- power per wage-earner " in Table 11. In 1890, 131.2 horsepower, and in 1900, 172.4 horsepower per 100 operatives were required. The improvements in cards, combs, looms, and other machinery were such that less superintendence was needed and the operative could give his attention to more machines. The table fol- lowing presents a statement of horsepower, wage- earners, and horsepower per wage-earner for the cen- suses of 1880, 1890, and 1900 for the wool industry in its various branches. Table 11.— POWER AND LABOR: 1880 TO 1900. INDUSTRIES. Total Woolen goods Worsted goods Carpets and rugs, other than rag Felt goods Wool hats 1900 1890 1880 1900 1*90 1900* 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 Total horse- power. 274, 262 202,364 140, 058 139, 645 122, 224 106, 607 97,383 49,117 16,437 26, 932 22, 677 10,491 7,973 5,051 2,631 2,329 3,295 3,992 Average number of wage- earners. 159, 108 154,271 131, 059 76, 915 85, 202 57, 008 42, 978 18, 639 28, 411 28, 736 20, 299 2,688 2,142 1,488 2,108 3,500 5,431 Horse- power per wage- earner. 1.72 1.31 1.07 2.03 1.59 1.25 1.71 1.14 0.88 0.95 0.79 0.52 2.97 2.36 1.77 1.11 0.94 0.74 DEPRECIATION OF PLANT. No attempt was made at the census of 1900 to ascertain what allowances were made for depreciation of plant. In the thoroughly up-to-date establishment every im- provement in machinery is adopted as soon as its value is demonstrated. Existing machinery, even though com- paratively new, is at once discarded if increased pro- duction can be secured without a proportionate increase of cost by the substitution of the latest improved machines. The question with the manufacturer is not so much the cost, as whether the change will bring an. increase of income sufficient to pay the interest on the cost, with an added margin for profit, and put the estab- lishment in better condition to meet business competi- tion. It is commonly agreed that an allowance of 10 per cent of the first cost of machinery is a fair annual allowance for wear and tear and supersession by im- WOOL. 87 provements, and that at least this amount should be set aside for depreciation. A smaller allowance is sufficient for buildings, but, nevertheless, improved processes of manufacture frequently compel the tearing down of old buildings and the erection of new ones in their place, so that an allowance of 5 per cent is not too much for depreciation of buildings. It is true that in many establishments but little has been laid out for years on alteration or repairs, only a sufficient amount to keep the mill going being expended, and in many mills there are cards and looms that have been in operation for so long that they are almost relics of a by-gone age. Although such machines may answer the purpose of their owners fairly well, they fall far behind more mod- ern machines in their productive capacity and economy of operation. CAPITAL. The increase in capital employed during the decade 1890-1900, as shown by the reports, was $64,293,006, or 26. 1 per cent. The total capital is divided into fixed and live capital, the land, buildings, and machinery, etc., being regarded as "fixed" and the items of cash, unsettled ledger accounts, etc., as "live" capital. The following statement shows the statistics of capital for 1890 and 1900: CAPITAL. Percent of increase. 1900 1890 $310, 179, 749 8245, 886, 743 125,226,619 106, 146, 810 18.0 17,936,483 38,074,295 69,215,841 184, 953, 130 12,682,857 33,950,456 59, 513, 497 139, 739, 933 Machinery, tools, and implements Cash on hand, unsettled ledger accounts, 16.3 The live capital reported shows an increase of 32.4 per cent and bears no fixed relation to the value or quantity of product. In 1890 it was a little more than half, and in 1900 it represented a sum equal to over 62 per cent of the total value of products. It has be"en generally understood in the wool manufacture that the active capital should be turned twice in the year, but in this case the tables show a falling off from this standard. WAGE-EAKNEES AND WAGES. The total number of wage-earners employed in the wool manufacture has increased 4,837 over 1890. Of this increase 4,821 were men and 819 were children. The number of women employed decreased 803. The relative proportion of each at the last three censuses is shown in the following statement: AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS, AND PROPOR- TION OF MEN, WOMEN, AND CHILDREN: 1880 TO 1900. Total Men, 16 years and over . . . Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years.. Year. 1900 1890 1880 1901) 1X90 1880 1900 1X90 1880 1900 1X90 1XS0 Average number. 159, 108 154,271 131,059 83, 371 78,550 66, 347 64,141 64, 944 49, 104 11, 596 10, 777 15, 608 Per cent of total. 100.0 100.0 100.0 52.4 50.9 50.6 40.3 42.1 37.5 7.3 7.0 11.9 The proportions have changed very slightly in the decade, the percentage of men being 50.9 in 1890 and 52.4 in 1900; of women, 42.1 and 40.3; and of children, 7 and 7.3. The total amount paid in wages in 1900 was $57,933,- 817, divided as follows: To men, $36,412,872; to wo- men, $19,549,423; to children, $1,971,522. In 1890 the total amount was $54,339,775, of which $33,702,231 was paid to men, $18,883,174 to women, and $1,754,370 to children. No attempt is made to analyze these wages or to ascertain the average earnings, because of the different methods of reporting the average number of employees pursued at the two censuses. The full de- tails of wages and earnings in the wool manufacture will be shown in the special report on wages to be pub- lished by the Census Office at a later date. CONDITIONS OF WAGE-EARNERS. Within the memory of many men now living the conditions under which the work of the operatives is carried on have undergone a great change. In the early fifties it was the custom to work from sun to sun, and oftentimes for even longer hours. When daylight failed, the only light available was that fur- nished by little whale-oil lamps. The buildings were generally small, low-studded, ill ventilated, and poorly lighted. The operatives lived in factory boarding houses or in tenements owned by the mill proprietors, taking a part of their pay in board or rent. The evolu- tion from these conditions has been slow but continuous. Mills of recent construction contain every modern ap- pliance for facilitating production, such as cards, combs, mules, spinning frames, looms, and other machinery of the highest type, with their various stop motions and other automatic devices for the prevention of imper- fections. The rooms are large, lofty, well ventilated and lighted, and heated by steam. Electric lights make good the absence of daylight when required. The hours of labor have been reduced to 60 per week, and in several in- stances to a smaller number. Wages are generally paid in cash, usually either every week or once in two weeks, and factory inspection laws prevent, to a great extent, the employment of children under 14 years of age, and insure the best sanitary conditions. / 88 MANUFACTURES MATERIALS USED IN THE WOOL MANUFACTURE. Table 12 is a summary of the kind, quantity, and cost of materials used in the various branches of the wool manufacture in 1900. Table 12.— KIND, QUANTITY, AND COST OF MATERIALS USED: 1900. Total cost Wool, foreign and domestic, in condition purchased: Pounds Cost ".".".'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'. Raw cotton: Pounds cost y.y.y.y.y.y.y.y.y.y. Mohair: Pounds Cost '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. Cotton yarn, not made in mill: Pounds Cost Linen yarn, not made in mill: Pounds Cost '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. Silk yarn, not made in mill: " Pounds cost '.y..'.yy.y.y.y.y.y.y.~.y.y.y. Yarn of jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber, not made in mill: Pounds Cost '.'.'.'.'.'..'.'..'.'.'."." Shoddy, purchased and made: Pounds cost '..'.'..'. y. .v. All other materials, cost Total pounds, wool, cotton, and shoddy Per cent of total ] . Total pounds of wool used '.'.'.'.'.".'.'.".'.'.'. Per cent of total \ '.'.'.'.'. Total pounds of cotton and cotton yarn used ] Per cent of total Total pounds of shoddy used '.'.'.'.'.'.'.".'. Per cent of total Total. $181, 159, 127 394, 369, 623 889,893,350 43,414,502 S3, 487, 132 3, 048, 146 81,439,288 55, 217, 994 89, 568, 864 8, 415, 275 81,178,414 70, 073 8334, 001 39, 965, 180 82, 533, 413 71,496,508 87,069,630 865, 655, 035 664,498,527 100.0 394, 369, 523 69.8 98, 632, 496 17.5 71, 496, 508 12.7 Woolen mills. Worsted goods mills. 871,011,956 150, 200, 616 834,497,689 34, 967, 959 82, 756, 485 1,117,179 8459,831 21, 922, 136 83,782,240 7,845 34, 007 $145, 514 1,118,767 857, 384 66, 855, 105 $6, 584, 855 822,721,960 273, 945, 816 100.0 150, 200, 616 54.8 56, 890, 095 20.8 66, 855, 105 24.4 877, 075, 222 179,977,936 844, 306, 141 5, 276, 751 8524, 515 1,905,967 8972, 207 13, 420, 590 83,032,039 1,314 81, 052 26,418 8144, 971 Carpet and rug mills, other than rag. 827,228,719 Felt goods mills. 83, 801, 028 1,807,827 $303, 644 827, 790, 653 200, 483, 104 100. 179, 977, 936 89.8 18,697,341 9 3 1, 807, 827 0.9 51,871,334 $8, 104, 107 1, 943, 942 $129, 449 25,000 $7, 250 19,823,561 $2, 744, 928 8, 388, 211 $1,164,826 9,634 $43, 455 38,846,413 82,476,029 869, 233 $49, 680 $12,508,995 74, 508, 070 100. C 51,871,334 69.6 21,767,603 29 2 869, 233 1.2 9, 606, 263 $2,196,440 1, 225, 850 $77, 683 Wool hat mills. $2,042,202 2, 713, 374 $788, 973 51,707 $9, 657 17, 905 $5,538 14 1, 961, 208 $130,835 $1, 380, 814 12, 845, 028 100.0 9,606,263 74.8 1,277,557 9.9 1,961,208 15.3 3,135 8616 $1,252,613 2,716,509 100.0 2, 713, 374 99.9 3,135 0.1 The consumption of wool in 1900 in the wool manu- facture was 394,369,523 pounds, of which 257,934,562 pounds was of domestic production, and 136,434,961 pounds of foreign growth. The quantity of new wool used in the wool manu- facture has increased 12.3 per cent since 1890; the quantity of shoddy used has increased 25.8 per cent. The increase in the consumption of wool wastes and noils is 18.2 per cent, and of all other hair and animal fiber, including camel's hair and mohair, 33.7 per cent. The quantity of raw cotton used has increased 25.5 per cent. The total quantity of raw fiber consumed has in- creased 15.5 per cent, while the value of products has increased only 9.8 per cent. NET WOOL SUPPLY, FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC. The following statement shows the net supply of wool for the twenty years beginning with 1881, with the per- centage of supply to imports. These figures are com- piled from the reports of the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department. WOOL PRODUCED AND IMPORTED, DOMESTIC EXPORTS AND ANNUAL SUPPLY OF THE UNITED STATES, 1881 TO 1900 INCLUSIVE. Years. 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892. 1893, 1894. 1895. 1896, 1897. 1898. 1899. 1900. Domestic production (Depart- ment of Agricul- ture), pounds. 240. 272. 290, 300. 808, 302, 2X5, 269, -65, 276, 285, 294, Sic:, 298, 309, '272, '259, 266, •272, 2 309, 000,000 000,000 000,000 000, 000 000,000 000,000 000,000 000,000 000,000 000,000 000,000 000,000 153,000 057, 384 748,000 474, 708 153,251 720, 684 191,330 991,812 Imports en- tered for consump- tion year ending June 30, pounds. 67,416,967 63, 016, 769 53, 049, 967 87, 703, 931 68, 146, 652 107, 910, 549 114,404,173 97,231,267 126,181,273 109, 902, 105 119, 390, 280 134, 622, 366 175,636,042 45, 726, 056 265, 726, 348 228,647,543 350, 250, 028 70,334,897 77, 388, 192 128, 250, 945 Total pro- duction and imports, pounds. 807, 416, 967 336, 016, 769 343,049,967 387, 703, 931 376, 146, 652 409, 910, 549 399, 404, 173 366,231,267 391,181,273 386, 902, 105 404, 390, 280 428,622,366 478,789,042 343,783,440 576,474,348 501,122,251 609, 403, 279 337, 055, 581 349, 579, 522 438, 242, 757 Domestic exports year ending June 30, pounds. 71,455 116,179 64, 474 10, 393 88,006 147, 023 257, 940 22, 164 141,576 231,042 291,922 202, 456 91,858 520, 247 4,279,109 6, 945, 981 5,271,535 121,139 1.683,419 2, 200, 309 Net supply, pounds. 307, 345, 512 334,900,590 342, 985, 493 387,693.638 376, 058, 646 409, 763, 526 399,146,233 366, 209, 103 391,039,697 385,671,063 404, 098, 358 428,419,910 478, 697, 184 343,263,193 571,195,239 494, 176, 270 604,131,744 336,934,442 347, 896, 103 436, 042, 448 Per cent of imports to sup- ply. 21.9 18.8 16.6 22.6 18.1 26.3 28.7 26.6 32.3 28.6 29.5 31.4 36.7 13.3 46.6 46.3 58.0 20.9 22.2 29.4 ^Cens^oUMlO? National A^ociatiou of Wool Manufacturers. WOOL. 89 The total quantity of imported wool entered for con- sumption during the ten years 1881-1890 was 894,- 963,653 pounds. The quantity of wool grown in the United States in the same period was 2,807,000,000 pounds, and deducting the exports of domestic wool, the total net supply was 3,700,813,401 pounds. The annual average net supply was 370,081,340 pounds. The quan- tity of foreign wool reported at the Eleventh Census as consumed was 114,116,612 pounds, and the total of domestic wool so reported was 258,680,801 pounds, making the total quantity consumed 372,797,413 pounds, which is 2,716,012 pounds in excess of the annual net supply. The total amount used in the year 1890 coin- cided closely with the average of the ten years, as above given, but the quantity of foreign wool used was greater than the average importation, and the quantity of do- mestic less than the average production. In the ten years 1891-1900 the foreign wool entered for consumption amounted to 1,595,972,697 pounds, and the domestic growth for the same time was 2,870,490,169. The total net supply was 4,444,854,891 pounds, one- tenth of which was 444,485,489 pounds, the annual aver- age net supply, which consisted of 159,597,270 pounds of foreign and 284,888,219 pounds of domestic wool. The home production of wool in 1900 was 71.1 per per cent of the net supply, but as 98,970,344 pounds of the foreign imports were of wools used mostly in the carpet manufacture, the domestic wool growers fur- nished a much larger proportion of the wool needed for clothing the people of the United States than the percentage indicates. The growth of any year or the imports entered for consumption are not necessarily consumed in the same year. But in a series of years the supply and con- sumption will nearly balance each other. There are no means of ascertaining the quantity of wool consumed in the years between the census years. It may or may not equal the consumption of the year of the census but the close correspondence in both periods between the average net supply and the consumption reported corroborate both the census figures and the clip estimates. DOMESTIC WOOL. The records show great variations in the annual pro- duction of domestic wool. In 1890 the quantity reported by the Department of Agriculture was 276,000,000 pounds. This quantity increased yearly, until in 1895 the product was 309,748,000 pounds. The next three years showed a stead}^ decline, until in 1897 the bottom was reached with a production reduced to 259,153,251 pounds. This is the smallest amount in any one year since 1881, when the United States Department of Agri- culture reported the product at 240,000,000 pounds. The census reports for 1900 show a product for the cen- sus year of 276,991,812 pounds of fleece wool, to which must be added 33,000,000 pounds, estimated as the quantity of pulled wool produced, making a total of 309,991,812 pounds of wool. No previous census has taken account of the Angora goats in the United States. It appears from the returns of the census for 1900, as tabulated under the direction of Mr. L. G. Powers, Chief Statistician for Agriculture, that in 1900 there were 454,932 fleece-bearing goats, which furnished 961,328 pounds of hair, valued at $267,864, an average of nearly 28 cents per pound. Adding this hair to the wool product, the domestic product of wool and hair for the census year, as ascertained at the census of 1900, was 310,953,140 pounds. IMPORTS OF FOREIGN WOOL, 1822 TO 1900. The following table shows the quantity and value of imported wool entered for consumption from 1822 to 1900, inclusive, by periods of five and ten years. It shows also the increase in quantity for each of these periods and the percentage of the increase: 90 MANUFACTURES. IMPORTS OF FOREIGN WOOL: 1822 TO 1900. * Quantity (fiscal year) (pounds) . Value. Quantity (5- year periods) (pounds). Value. Quantity (10- year periods) (pounds). Value. INCREASE IN QUANTITY AND IN PER CENT (POUNDS). 5 years. 10 years. 1822 1,715,690 1, 673, 348 1, 291, 400 2, 055, 767 2, 622, 909 3, 180, 767 2,437,018 1,295,767 663, 641 5, 619, 353 2, 814, 879 273, 631 8387, 312 340, 956 353, 367 552, 069 446,768 379, 841 488, 831 204, 648 92, 172 1, 287, 540 501,602 93, 957 6,736,205 10,200,102 ► 15, 904, 169 46, 961, 106 I 67, 113, 232 1 72,651,360 I 110,198,202 I 119,908,085 i 284,517,282 I 206, 032, 175 I 337, 182, 602 1 259,666,315 I 339,334,286 I 555, 629, 367 I 741,101,092 I 854,871,605 $1,633,704 1,612,260 2, 955. 115 4,001,900 4, 548, 590 "5, 361, 468 13, 165, 013 18,690,041 48,466,353 31,098,856 69, 582, 888 45,326,434 53,953,737 77,805,485 90,986,877 117,477,836 1823 1824 16, 936, 307 $3,245,964 3,463,897 61.42 per cent. 5,704,067 55.92 per cent. 31, 056, 937 195.28 per cent. 20, 152, 126 42.91 percent. 5, 538, 128 8.25 per cent. 37, 546, 842 61.68 per cent. 9, 709, 883 8.81 per cent. 164, 609, 197 137.28 per cent. 78, 485, 107 '27.59 per cent. 131,150,427 63.66 per cent. 77, 516, 287 1 22.99 per cent. 79, 667, 971 30.68 per cent. 216, 295, 081 63.74 per cent. 185,471,725 33. 38 per cent. 113, 770, 613 15. 35 per cent 1825 1826 1827 1829 1830 1831 1832 1834 2 62,865,275 6, 957, 016 1835 7, 196, 306 12, 296, 249 10,259,687 6,785,704 7, 806, 254 9, 813, 212 14, 862, 984 10,849,773 3,497,447 14, 077, 956 23, 825, 072 16, 504, 879 8, 249, 207 11,379,483 17,822,497 18,695,294 32, 578, 193 17,992,646 21, 403, 925 20,033,492 18, 189, 946 16, 729, 377 18, 460, 227 25,562,478 33,030,112 26,125,891 31, 638, 533 43,698,138 74,412,878 91, 026, 639 43,741,094 70,435,943 37, 683, 675 24,582,551 34,695,939 38,634,067 50,174,056 94,315,933 84, 212, 582 56,793,737 61,686,294 40,275,678 40, 114, 394 39,801,161 40, 102, 642 99,372,440 67, 416, 967 63,016,769 53,049,967 87, 703, 931 68,146,652 107,910,549 114,404,173 97,231,267 126,181,273 109, 902, 105 119, 390, 280 134, 622, 366 175, 636, 042 45, 726, 056 265,726,348 228, 647, 543 350, 250, 028 70, 334, 897 77, 388, 192 128,250,945 1,072,116 1,203,937 806, 544 509, 283 662, 306 819, 830 1,047,507 716, 768 228,106 872, 143 1,684,066 1, 112, 978 524. 874 862, 675 1, 170, 561 1, 690, 380 3, 836, 613 1,876,536 2. 625. 761 2, 792, 558 2, 033, 545 2,172,477 2, 612, 704 3,523,536 5,084,562 6. 296. 762 5,015,002 7, 140, 114 12, 528, 606 16,128,209 7,654,422 10,682,257 5,779,511 3, 955, 671 5, 251, 094 5,430,323 7, 704, 674 19, 571, 559 20,466,166 11, 611, 867 10, 228, 622 7,887,616 7,012,972 6,995,367 5, 516, 813 17, 913, 666 12, 060, 827 10, 333, 359 8,491,988 13, 593, 299 9,474,264 13,794,213 16, 351, 370 14, 062, 100 17,432.759 16,165,043 17, 070, 183 17, 697, 068 18, 403, 689 5,191,806 32, 624, 131 32, 144, 454 53, 219, 397 8, 714, 526 8, 363, 239 15, 036, 220 1836 1837 1838 45,928,968 1839 271.19 per cent. 1840 1841 1842 3 -. 1844 139, 764, 592 9,910 058 1845 1846 1847 1848 76,899,317 1849 122.32 per cent 1850 1851 1852 1854 230,106,287 31, 855, 054 1855 1856 1857 1858 90,341,695 1859 64.64 per cent. I860 1861 1862 1864 490, 549, 457 79,565,209 1865 1866 260,443,170 113.18 per cent 596,848,917 114, 909, 322 106,299,460 894,963,653 131,759,222 298,114,736 49 95 per cent. 1,595,972,697 208,464,713 701,009,044 78. 34 per cent. iThe quantities and values given are for net imports, 1822 to 1866, inclusive, and imports entered for consumption from 1867 to 1900, inclusive. 2 In 1834 the exports of foreign wool exceeded the imports. «To and including the year 1842, the fiscal year ended September 30; after that date June 30. * Decrease. WOOL. 91 The greatest percentage of increase occurred in the five-year period ending in 1840, 195.28 per cent, the next was that ending in 1865. That ending in 1870 showed a decrease of 27.59 per cent. The greatest actual increase was in the period ending in 1890, the increase being 216,295,081 pounds, although the per- centage of increase was only 63.74. The next largest periods were those ending in 1875 and 1895. In the decades the greatest percentage of increase was in that ending in 1840, 271.19 per cent, and was followed by those ending in 1850, 1870, 1900, 1860, 1890, 1880, in the order named. The actual increase varies very greatly from the above order. The greatest increase in the decades was in the last, 1891-1900, 700,009,044 pounds, 78.34 per cent. Then come the decades ending in 1890, 1870, 1880, 1860, 1850, in the order named, and last 1840, with an increase of 271.19 per cent, but an actual increase of only 45,928,968 pounds. THE FOREIGN SOURCES OF WOOL SUPPLIES. The three following tables show the countries of origin of the wools imported into the United States during the years ending June 30, 1890, and June 30, 1900. They are divided according to the tariff division of imported wool into classes, and indicate in a striking manner the changes which have occurred during the decade in the sources from which wool imports are drawn. As the bulk of imported wools are of Class III, they are placed first. These wools were used principally in carpet manufacture. IMPORTS OF CLASS III WOOLS, BY COUNTRIES OF PRO- DUCTION: 1890-1900. Total. Australasia . Europe Austria-Hungary Belgium Denmark England Ireland Scotland France Germany Greece Greenland, Iceland, etc Italy Portugal Russia— Baltic and White seas . Russia— Black Sea Russia— all other Sarvia Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey in Europe All other countries South America . Argentina . Brazil Chile Ecuador . . . Uruguay .. Venezuela. Aden China India Japan Russia — Asiatic Turkey in Asia All other countries . Pounds. 80,152,484 21, 237 30,858,372 11,977 5,193,817 5, 144, 822 2, 198, 996 718, 572 64,104 444 339, 956 3,397,982 10,594,887 1, 362, 293 28,381 32, 837 35, 685 1, 733, 619 15, 427, 402 13, 531, 096 175, 697 1, 634, 953 1,087 84,569 33, 378, 502 8, 704, 983 7,931,474 204, 339 12, 568, 375 3, 969, 331 Pounds. 105,742,030 311, 337 30, 206, 506 920, 562 37, 257 137, 144 2,234,475 35, 860 10, 026, 197 330,254 1, 986, 837 21,722 502, 736 57, 892 183, 891 6,013,756 5, 725, 764 1,038,198 383, 473 54,935 146 61,315 455, 092 10, 615, 231 8, 951, 184 254, 705 864, 047 522, 087 23, 208 64, 257, 659 7,002 30, 984, 902 9,396,249 27, 100 6,041,346 7, 853, 411 9,947,649 IMPORTS OF CLASS III "WOOLS, BY COUNTRIES OF PRO- DUCTION: 1890-1900— Continued. 1890 1900 Pounds. 154, 826 Pounds. 336, 048 62,925 154, 826 95, 027 178, 096 48,134 14, 877 32, 793 357 14,984 264,011 60 Dutch 14, 817 372 The total imports of these wools were 80,152,484 pounds in 1890, and 105,742,030 pounds in 1900, an in- crease of 25,589,546 pounds. Argentina, which for a long time has been one of the chief sources of supply, sent 4,579,912 pounds less in 1900 than in 1890; England and Scotland sent about the same quantity in both years, as also did Russia in Europe ; but Asiatic Russia increased its shipments 5,837,007 pounds. Turkey in Europe sent 1,278,527 pounds less than before, Turkey in Asia 4,714,964 pounds less, and India 1,464,775 pounds more. The quota of France was reduced by 1,868,742 pounds, and Germany increased its quota by 1,268,265 pounds. The great difference, however, appears in the importations from China. In 1890 there were received from that empire 8,704,983 pounds; in 1900, 30,984,902 pounds; the increase being 22,279,919 pounds, a quantity nearly equal to the total increase as shown by the table. The China wools have been steadily growing in favor with carpet manufacturers. CLASS I WOOLS. The wools of Class I come most directly into com- petition with the wools of domestic production. For many years American importations of such wools have been mostly of Australian growth. In recent years, however, large quantities have come from the Argen- tine Republic. The Argentine sheep farmers, to meet the demand for mutton sheep for food purposes, crossed their Merinos with sheep of English blood and inci- dentally produced a cross-bred wool comparing favor- ably with the admirable cross-bred territorial wools of the United States. In 1890, 168,355 pounds of these wools were brought into the United States, but in 1900 the quantity had increased to 11,113,095 pounds. During the decade the sheep of Australasia have suf- fered severely from frequent and long-continued droughts, resulting in a reduction of the flocks from 124,983,100 in 1892 to 93,196,483 in 1901, with a cor- responding reduction in the product. The imports of these wools into the United States increased from 11,928,921 pounds in 1890 to 22,684,590 pounds in 1900. The importations of Class I wools for 1890 were 15,492,107 pounds, and in 1900, 37,036,621 pounds. 92 MANUFACTURES IMPORTS OF CLASS I WOOLS, BY COUNTRIES OF PRO- DUCTION: 1890-1900. Total . Australasia . Europe England Ireland Scotland France Germany Iceland Italy Netherlands Russia — Baltic and White seas. Spain Turkey in Europe All other countries South America . Argentina . Brazil Chile Peru Uruguay. . . Asia . China Turkey in Asia All other countries . Airlca . British Africa All other countries . All other countries - 1890 Pounds. 15,492,107 11,928,921 1,271,510 884,807 509 262, 333 7,199 334 91,460 24, 868 1,166,890 168, 355 67,981 783, 575 2,740 144,239 18,056 10,456 3,800 3,800 1,102,793 2,937 Pounds. 37,036,621 22, 684, 590 420,790 224,010 68,251 63, 027 18, 627 157 100 34,788 10, 514 816 ."ill i 13,182,040 11,113,095 351, 190 1, 367, 410 5,126 345, 219 61, 961 61, 933 28 660,680 626,141 34,639 CLASS II WOOLS. Iri the imports of these wools there has been but little change, the total quantity being 9,885,173, which was only 2,226,367 pounds more than the importations in 1890. The United Kingdom was the great source of supply, furnishing 7,805,222 pounds of the total, which is 907,818 pounds in excess of the quantity imported thence in 1890. IMPORTS OF CLASS II WOOLS, BY COUNTRIES OF PRO- DUCTION: 1890-1900. Total . Australasia. Europe Austria-Hungary . . England Ireland Scotland France Germany Netherlands Turkey in Europe . South America . Colombia. Peru Uruguay.. Asia . China India Russia in Asia Turkey in Asia All other countries . Africa . British Africa All other countries . North America. Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, and Northwest Terri- tory British Columbia Pounds. 7, 658, 806 7, 312, 278 6,897,404 11, 526 110 403,238 19 157, 432 110, 647 46,785 159, 861 25,804 1900 Pounds. 9,885,173 125,467 8, 885, 173 55 5,693,724 1,660,971 450, 527 296 78,240 180, 783 748, 867 543, 866 205, 001 930, 705 13, 387 743 39, 674 841, 993 15,538 11, 691 3,847 WOOLS ENTERED EOR CONSUMPTION. The following table shows the imports of wool en- tered for consumption, giving quantities and values, divided into classes according to the tariff classification: Table 13.— WOOLS ENTERED FOR CONSUMPTION IN THE UNITED STATES, 1867 TO 1900, BY CLASS, QUANTITY, AND VALUE. 1867. 1868. 1869. 1870. 1871. 1872. 1873. 1874. 1875. 1876. 1877. 1878. 1879. 1880. 1881. 1882. 1883. 1884. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1888. 1889. 1890. 1891. 1892. 1893. 1894. 1895 . 1896. 1897. 1898. 1899. 1900. Total pounds. 37, 683, 675 24,582,551 34,695,940 38,634,067 60,174,056 94,315,933 84, 212, 582 56, 793, 737 51,686,294 40, 275, 678 40, 114, 394 39,>801,161 40,102,642 99,372,440 67,416,967 63,016,769 63,049,967 87,703,931 68, 146, 652 107, 910, 549 114,404,173 97,231,267 126, 181, 273 109,902,105 119,390,280 134, 622, 366 175,636,042 45, 726, 056 265,726,348 228,647,543 350, 250, 028 70, 333, 668 77, 388, 192 128, 250, 945 NO. 1. — CLOTHING. Pounds. 1, 270, 356 4, 681, 679 2, 512, 202 6,530,493 5,957,461 16,871,332 6, 029, 488 2,398,210 13,117,679 8, 643, 306 9,294,029 9,916,012 5,229,987 26, 785, 172 20, 609, 707 13, 489, 923 11,546,530 20,703,843 13,472,432 23, 321, 759 23, 195, 734 16,952,613 22,973,088 21,387,867 26, 520, 670 38, 641, 130 35, 403, 022 7,860,841 106, 516, 023 117, 533, 750 200,485,096 18, 122, 092 9, 683, 053 19, 369, 622 Value. $415, 609 918, 588 505, 715 1,249,152 1,201,201 1,744,200 815,307 3,602,535 2, 187, 713 2,202,639 2, 431, 043 1,114,301 6,412,273 4,751,454 3, 042, 407 2,667,443 4,700,605 2,994,533 4, 344, 189 4,839,498 3,648,780 4, 764, 015 4, 856, 640 6, 025, 452 7, 731, 730 6, 555, 640 1,449,254 16, 695, 687 19, 512, 199 34, 307, 110 3,320,651 1,565,954 3,760,696 NO. 2. — COMBING. Pounds. 150, 302 1,804,272 4, 633, 367 2, 752, !-69 17, 665, 600 41,155,460 49,540,231 27,087,437 7, 769, 157 3, 167, 307 2, 509, 954 3,028,869 1, 709, 601 13,266,856 4,421,491 2,318,671 1,373,114 4, 474, 396 3,891,914 4, 872, 739 9,703,962 5,568,068 6, 651, 719 7, 662, 978 6, 973, 921 5, 421, 081 4,035,439 1,334,631 14,722,090 12, 992, 576 37, 949, 945 3,866,682 2, 160, 370 9, 910, 979 Value. 831, 827 332,315 1,092,297 765,147 3, 167, 835 8, 952, 131 12, 723, 501 6,193,160 2,153,261 1,153,604 830, 715 969,683 413, 761 3,801,730 1,271,332 648,252 343, 9S7 1, 058, 758 921,252 1, 106, 116 2, 270, 058 1, 322, 862 1,656,309 1,895,535 1,640,262 1, 222, 884 1,635,812 337, 679 2, 892, 542 3, 121, 030 7, 182, 664 776, 683 672,205 2,094,373 NO. 3. — CARPET "WOOLS. Poijnds. 36, 263, 017 18,096,600 27, 650, 371 29, 361, 005 26, 550, 995 36, 289, 141 28, 642, 863 27, 308, 090 30, 799, 458 28, 465, 005 28, 310, 411 26,856,280 33,163,054 59,320,412 42, 385, 769 47, 208, 175 40, 130, 323 62, 525, 692 50,782,306 79, 716, 051 81, 504, 477 74,710,d86 96,556,466 80,851,260 85, 895, 689 90, 560, 125 133, 197, 581 36,530,584 144,488,335 98,121,217 110, 814, 987 48,345,894 65, 644, 769 98,970,344 Value. $5, 332, 074 2,704,768 3, 653, 082 3, 416, 024 3, 335, 638 6,435,468 5, 998, 465 4,603,410 4,472,826 4, 546, 398 3, 979, 617 3, 594, 640 3,988,752 7, 699, 663 6,038,041 6, 642, 699 5,580,558 7,833,936 5,558,479 8,343,903 9, 741, S14 9,090,459 11, 112, 435 9,412,866 9,404,468 8,742,454 10, 312, 237 3,404,873 13, 135, 902 9, 511, 225 11, 729, 623 4,608,455 6,225,080 9,181,151 WOOL. 93 The Class I and II wools are those used by the general wool manufacture. The Class III wools are coarse wools, used principally in the manufacture of carpets. The im- portations for consumption of the latter wools amounted to 656,371,205 pounds for the decade ending 1890 and 912,569,525 pounds for the succeeding decade, which gives an average annual supply of the Class III wools for the first of these decades of 65,637,120 pounds, and for the second decade 91,256,952 pounds, which was in each instance a smaller quantity than the imports for the corresponding census year. For the purpose of comparison the Class I and II wools may be considered together, for these are the wools which enter into competition with wools of domestic production. The total of these wools imported for the decade ending 1890 is 238,592,448 pounds, the annual average 23,859,245 pounds. For the decade ending with 1900, these importations amounted to 679,402,018 pounds, the annual average being 67,940,201 pounds. The very large importations of wool of all classes in the years 1895, 1896, and 1897 were preceded in 1894 and followed in 1898 and 1899 by the smallest importations for many years. From the close approximation in 1900 of the imports (128, 250, 945 pounds) to the quantity reported as used, it may be assumed that the oversupply of wool imported in the years 1895-1897 had been disposed of in the manufacture. It may be explained that the large imports of the years mentioned above (1895-1897) were not technically " entered for consumption," but, coming in during the free-wool period, they were not "entered in bond," but taken directly out of the Government's custody and held in public and private storehouses until the market called for them. It appears also that the importations of Class 1 and II wools in 1898, 1899, and 1900 were below the average quantit} r and that the increased importations during the last three years of the decade were principally of Class III wools. WOOL CONSUMPTION. The consumption of foreign wool in 1900, in condition purchased, amounted to 139,881,799 pounds, of which 51,761,523 pounds used were the coarse wools of Class III consumed in the carpet manufacture. In addition to the raw wool consumed, these mills used 9,218,267 pounds of worsted yarn made in other mills, which was manufactured from imported wool, and required, on the basis of 2 pounds of wool to the pound of yarn, 18,436,534 pounds. This, added to the wool consumed in the mills, makes a total of 70,198,057 pounds of Class III wool accounted for in this.manufacture. How much more imported Class III wool was used in the manufac- ture of the woolen yarn purchased for use in the carpet manufacture, amounting to 32,996,316 pounds, must be a matter of conjecture, but as the estimated total used falls short of the average quantity entered for consump- tion for the decade by about 21,000,000 pounds, it is probable that not less than 10,000,000 pounds of foreign wool entered into the composition of these yarns. If, then, the sum of these items, or 80,198,057 pounds rep- resents the consumption of foreign wools in the carpet industry, there remains of the average importations 11,068,868 pounds for use in the manufacture of the low- grade blankets and other coarse goods to which these wools are adapted. Assuming that the consumption of Class III wools equals the average importations, the re- mainder of- the foreign wool used, 57,683,742 pounds, would be of Class I and II, of which the annual aver- age importation for the decade was, as already stated, 67,940,201 pounds. The total imports of Class I and II wools entered for consumption for the last three years of the decade amounted to only 63,011,798 pounds, or about 5,000,000 pounds less than the average annual importations. This was much less than a normal sup- ply, and the deficiency was made good from the exces- sive importations of preceding years. In addition to the sheep's wool used, a considerable quantity of mohair, which is the hair of the Angora goat, camel's hair, and alpaca hair are consumed in the wool manufacture. The mohair and alpaca, for the most part imported, are included with the Class II wools, being suitable only for combing purposes. The camel's hair was formerly all considered a Class III wool, but under the present tariff it is divided between Classes II and III, that coming from China being of Class II and that from Eussia of Class III. The importations of mohair and alpaca and similar hairs entered for con- sumption during the decade amounted to 12,577,814 pounds, the annual average being 1,257,781 pounds. The importations in 1900 were 1,829,892 pounds. Of camel's hair the imports for the ten years were 23,284,492 pounds, an annual average of 2,328,449 pounds. The importations of 1900 amounted to 1,446,338 pounds, of which 126,762 pounds were of Class II, the remainder being of Class 111. The con- sumption of camel's hair and noils, which amounted to 7,684,804 pounds in 1890, has so decreased that the census of 1900 accounted for the use of only 2,994,427 pounds. In 1890 the consumption of mohair and mohair noils was reported at 2,136,244 pounds. In 1900 the quantity of alpaca, mohair, and mohair noils consumed was reported as 3,794,207 pounds. The consumption of buffalo, cow, and all other hair, which is used principally in the carpet manufacture and in the making of horse blankets and similar goods, amounted to 29,416,283 pounds, an increase of 12,550,519 pounds over 1890, when the quantity of such hair consumed was 16,865,764 pounds. The total quantity of wool consumed ' ' in condition purchased " in all branches of wool manufacture, and in hosiery and knit-goods factories, was 412,323,430 pounds, to which must be added the camel's hair, mohair, and alpaca used, and all other hair (36,204,917 94 MANUFACTURES. pounds), and 25,000,000 pounds estimated as the proper addition on account of wool purchased in the scoured state, making a total of 473,528,347 pounds of wool and hair as the raw material of animal origin used in the manufacture. Besides the above, about 1,000,000 pounds of wool was consumed in the shoddy mills, in institutions, and in small establishments hav- ing a product of less than $500 value. To ascertain the approximate quantity of animal fiber consumed there should be added a quantity equivalent to the amount of woolen and worsted yarns imported. In the fiscal year 1890, the importations of these yarns amounted to 3,229,778 pounds, but was very much less in 1900, amounting to only 172,988 pounds, which may be reckoned as equivalent to 500,000 pounds of greasy wool, and makes the approximate consumption of wool in the grease 475,000,000 pounds. A similar calcula- tion showed the consumption of 1890 to have been 434,000,000 pounds. The increase in consumption of animal fiber over 1890 is therefore 41,000,000 pounds, or 9.4 per cent. The following statement, prepared from the census reports and the United States Treasury statements of imports, shows the per capita consumption of wool in the United States for each census year from 1840 to 1900, inclusive: COMPARATIVE CONSUMPTION OF WOOL IN THE UNITED STATES: 1840 TO 1900. [Imports and exports for year ending June 30.] YEAR. Imports of wool entered for consumption. Home produc- tion of wool. Domestic ex- ports. Net supply. Imports of wool manufactures, allowing 3 pounds of wool to the 91 in value. Total consump- tion. Per capita consump- tion of wool. Pounds. J Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. 1840 « 9, 813, 212 18, 695, 294 26, 125, 891 38,634,067 99,372,440 109,902,105 128,250,945 35, 802, 114 62, 516, 969 60, 264, 913 162,000,000 232,500,000 276,000,000 3 310,953,140 45, 615, 326 71, 176, 365 85, 334, 876 200,481,175 331,680,889 385,671,063 437,003,776 31,095,276 58, 178, 613 128,497,923 105,289,422 95, 503, 641 162,496,269 46,861,460 76, 710, 602 129, 354, 978 213,832,799 305,770,597 427,184,530 548, 167, 332 483,865,236 4.49 1850 35,898 1,055,928 152, 892 191,551 231, 042 2, 200, 309 5.58 1860 1870 7 93 1880 8 52 1890 1900 1 Quantities for 1840, I860, and 1860 are imports, less reexports. 2 Year ending September 30. 8 Census report includes wool and mohair, and pulled wool estimated at 33,000,000 pounds. This statement is misleading, because the estimate of the quantity of wool in imported goods for the year ending June 30, 1900, is based upon an importation much less than the average amount. A fairer estimate would be one based on the average of such imports for a series of years. The imports of manufactures of wool averaged annually $31,623,265 for the ten years 1891-1900, and for the last five years of the decade the annual average was $28,837,019, which though smaller than the average for the decade is more than double the value of imports for the year under consideration. Making use of the latter statement as the more conserv- ative, the wool required for the imported goods would be 86,511,057 pounds, or 39,649,597 pounds more than is given in the table. If, therefore, to the net supply as reported in the table this quantity is added, the total consumption would amount to 523,514,833 pounds. On the basis of the population as ascertained at the census of 1900 the per capita consumption of wool would equal 6.93 pounds, or about 1 pound more than the table shows. This is a reduction of 1.82 pounds in the per capita consumption as shown by the table for 1890, and can be accounted for by the increasing use of cotton in piece goods, and especially in hosiery and knitted gar- ments for underwear. The consumption of cotton and cotton yarns in the hosiery and knit goods factories, which was 64,681,466 pounds in 1890, increased to 181,271,369 pounds in 1900, an increase of 116,569,903 pounds, thus supplanting an enormous quantity of wool flannels and undergarments. COTTON AND COTTON YARNS. The quantity of cotton used in the wool manufacture, exclusive of hosiery and knit goods, was 27,869,706 pounds in 1880, 42,996,248 pounds in 1890, and 43,414,- 502 pounds in 1900. A part of this cotton was used on the cards with wool, for the production of merino or mixed yarns, and part was spun into yarns for warp, for cot- ton-warp dress goods, linings, flannels, satinets, etc. At the census of 1900 the inquiry was made as to the number of pounds of cotton yarn made in the mills for use therein, and while the reports were not entirely satisfac- tory, the tabulations show 7,733,291 pounds of cotton yarn thus made. Besides the raw cotton used, the various branches of the wool manufacture consumed 55,217,994 pounds of cotton yarn, which required for its production about 65,000,000 pounds of raw cotton, so that the ap- proximate consumption of this fiber in the manufacture was 108,000,000 pounds. In 1890 the same class of mills consumed 42,996,248 pounds of raw cotton and 51,376,- 019 pounds of cotton yarn, requiring for its produc- tion about 60,000,000 pounds of raw cotton, so that the total quantity of cotton used in the production of these mills at that time was approximately 103,000,000 pounds. The total quantity of cotton required for the WOOL 95 wool manufacture in 1900 appears to be 108,000,000 pounds, against 394,369,523 pounds of wool used. The cost of the cotton used in the wool manufacture was $3,487,132, which, added to the cost of the cotton yarn consumed, $9,568,864, makes $13,055,996 as the cost of the cotton consumed. The value of foreign and domes- tic wool consumed was $89,893,350. SHODDY. The following statement shows the comparative quan- tities of scoured wool and shoddy used in the wool man- ufacture in all its branches in 1890 and 1900: COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF WOOL AND SHODDY CONSUMED IN THE WOOL MANUFACTURE: 1890 AND 1900. [Exclusive of hosiery and knit goods.] 1900 (Pounds.) Per cent of total. 1890 (Pounds.) Per cent of total. 238, 632, 452 34,496,508 37,000,000 76.9 } 23.1 19., 174, 021 56,826,475 77.7 Total 310,128,960 255, 000, 496 In addition to the shoddy purchased, it is estimated that 37,000,000 pounds were produced and used in the mills. This amount added to the 34,496,508 pounds purchased makes a total of 71,496,508 pounds of shoddy used in the wool manufacture in 1900, an increase of 14,670,033 pounds over the consumption in similar mills in 1890, although, because of the larger quantity of wool used, the percentage of wool and shoddy is about the same in each census. The increased produc- tion of worsted goods in which little shoddy is used makes the quantity of shoddy used in the carded wool manufacture much larger in proportion than it was ten years before. SCOURED WOOL, ANIMAL HAIR, SHODDY. AND COTTON USED: 1880-1900. [Exclusive of the hosiery and knit-goods manufacture.] DATE OF CENSUS. PER CENT OF TOTAL. 1900 (Pounds.) 1890 (Pounds.) 1SS0 (Pounds.) 1900 1890 1880 Total 443,431,261 375, 635, 079 283, 086, 551 100.0 100.0 100.0 Scoured wool, in- cluding camel's hair and mohair. Cotton and cotton 244,216.894 98,632,496 100, 581, 871 207, 584, 746 94,372,267 73,678,066 167, 634, 157 58,481,712 56,970,682 55.1 22.2 22.7 55.3 25.1 19.6 59.2 20.7 Shoddy and ani- mal hair, not 20.1 The percentage of scoured wool to other libers used in all branches of the wool manufacture was 59.2, 55.3, and 55.1 per cent, respectively, in 1880, 1890, and 1900. Cotton, which includes the cotton yarn consumed, the two being combined, comprised 20.7 per cent in 1880, 25.1 per cent in 1890, and 22.2 per cent in 1900 of the consumption. The actual quantity of raw cotton used was greater than the amounts shown by an amount equal to the difference between the quantity of yarn used and the number of pounds of raw cotton required for its manufacture. The proportion of shoddy and animal hair used was 20.1 per cent in 1880, 19.6 in 1890, and 22.7 in 1900. The use of shoddy has made possible a greater supply of warm clothing than could have been obtained with- out it, while the mixture of cotton and cotton yarn with wool has made possible the production of soft, light-weight fabrics, well adapted for use where light- ness, moderate warmth, and low cost are desired, and consequently the people are better clad than before these combinations were devised. In the general tables there appears a large quantity of waste and noils of which no account is taken in the table above. These materials are products of the card and comb and spindle, thrown out in the earlier manu- facturing processes in some mills, and purchased by others, being adapted to their use. They are wool that has never been made up into fabrics, and having been once reported as wool purchased can not again be properly counted in the material actually consumed. The so-called wastes are of various kinds, such as card waste, spinning waste, yarn waste, etc. The best of these materials is the noil, which is composed of short fibers of clean wool discarded in the combing process. It is very useful for many purposes, particularly in the manufacture of blankets and hosiery and knit goods. AVERAGE COST OF SCOURED WOOL. The following statement shows the quantity and aver- age cost of scoured wool consumed in the wool manu- facture and in each branch of the industry in each of the last three census years. AVERAGE COST OF SCOURED WOOL CONSUMED IN THE WOOL MANUFACTURE AND IN EACH BRANCH: 1880 to 1900. MILLS. Year. Quantity, pounds, scoured. Cost. Average cost per pound, cents. Percent of de- crease. Total 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 238, 632, 452 198,174,021 165, 953, 139 S89, 893, 350 90,286,066 93, 860, 421 37.71 45.56 56.56 17.2 19.5 89, 366, 903 100, 226, 094 109,724,213 103, 338, 616 54, 989, 746 26, 334, 635 6, 468, 097 4, 213, 230 2, 733, 796 1, 898, 605 3,018,114 3, 597, 279 37, 560, 231 35, 726, 837 23, 563, 216 394,369,523 351,158,020 287, 597, 334 34, 497, 689 48, 859, 811 67, 380, 250 44, 306, 141 23,280,287 15, 235, 878 2,196,440 1,841,382 1, 624, 871 788, 973 1,448,799 2,644,293 8, 104, 107 9,855,787 6,975,129 89, 893, 350 90,286,066 93, 860, 421 38.60 48.75 61.41 42.88 51.43 57.85 33.96 43.70 59.44 41.55 48.00 73.50 21.57 27.59 29.60 22.79 25.71 32.64 20.8 20.6 16.6 11.1 22.3 26.5 13.4 34.7 21.8 6.8 Quantity of wool "in condition pur- 11.4 21.2 96 MANUFACTURES. The consumption has increased 43.8 per cent over 1880 and 20.4 per cent, equal to 40,458,431 pounds, over 1890. The decrease in average cost per pound has been 33£ per cent since 1880, and 17.2 per cent since 1890. The relative quantity used varied in the different branches of the industry, there being - a reduced quantity used in the card wool mills and in the wool-hat fac- tories; a comparatively small increase in the carpet mills; an increase of over 2,000,000 pounds, or more than 50 per cent, in the felt mills; and an increase of over 48,000,000 pounds, or 88 per cent, in the worsted manufactories. The decrease in average cost per pound varied in the several branches, the least reduction being in the wool-hat mills, 13.4 per cent, and the worsted factories, 16.6 per cent. The greatest reduction in average cost appears for the felt mills, 22.3 per cent. In the woolen mills it was 20.8 and in the carpet mills 21.8 per cent. Although the wool used in the last three differs greatly in quality, the average reduction in cost per pound shows only a slight difference. The reduc- tion in the average cost of the wool used in all the mills was 17.2 per cent. The average cost per pound seems iow when com- pared with the weekly trade reports. These reports, however, include a few standard lines onty, while the census reports combine the wool of all kinds and quali- ties. The variation in the cost of the wool used in the several branches is noticeable. The highest average of cost is found in the worsted mills, as would be ex- pected, and the lowest in the carpet mills, which use the cheapest foreign wools. The cost of these scoured wools agrees very closely with the duty-paid value of the importations when reduced to the scoured basis. DYESTUFFS AND CHEMICALS. Under this head come expenditures for soap and pot- ash for scouring wool, soap used in fulling and cleansing cloths, oil used in lubricating wool for carding and spinning, the various chemicals necessary in the manu- facture, and dyestuffs for dyeing. The comparative cost of these items in the wool manufacture in 1900 and 1890 is as follows. The similar costs in the hosiery and knit-goods industiy will be given elsewhere. Dyestuffs and chemi- cals, value. OIL. SOAP. Gallons. Value. Pounds. Value. 1900 87, 983, 684 5, 889, 612 3,501,582 3, 715, 114 81,039,679 1,239,012 36, 136, 593 32,643,591 81,379,886 1890 1,106,359 This statement shows the cost of these materials used in the wool manufacture, but takes no cognizance of the large cost incurred for dyeing and printing yarns and cloths in outside establishments. A table on page 97 shows that the value added to woolen goods by these processes in the dyeing and printing establishments was §4,240,456, which represents the cost to the woolen manufacture of finishing processes carried on away from the mills. There is no available data indicating the extent to which artificial dyes have supplanted natural dyestuffs and coloring matter in the textile manufacture, although some idea of the magnitude of the change can be gath- ered by a comparison of the imports of natural and artificial dyeing materials in 1890 and 1900. The state- ment following shows the foreign value of these im- ports for each of the years, and where possible quanti- ties are also stated. The production of synthetic indigo, which has by recent inventions been made commercially successful is perhaps the greatest recent step in advance in the production of artificial colors. IMPORTS OF NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL DYES AND DYESTUFFS ENTERED FOR CONSUMPTION. FISCAL YEARS 1890 AND 1900. Unit. 1900 1890 Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. NATURAL. 83, 643, 879 $5,534,774 Tons . . . Pounds. Tons Tons.... Tons Pounds . Pounds . Pounds . Pounds . Pounds. Pounds . 48,190 3,420,276 1 4,440 20, 967 61, 305 38,857,515 2,747,043 18,204 251,538 120, 736 628,464 227, 527 161 60,886 205, 351 3,944 906,282 1,446,490 15, 767 20,094 5,869 47,134 44,502 31,408 6, 101, 251 66,768 2, 928, 600 1,501,566 Logwood, extractsof, etc. 222,029 10, 922 2,184 401,836 26, 617, 977 2,824,053 24, 963 913, 813 912, 866 157, 187 64, 482 39, 306 1,398,218 Indigo: Crude 1,827,937 31, 391 57,250 Madder 52, 090 87, 848 49, 736 SafBower and extracts, and saffron and saffron 158,911 218,218 45,734 ARTIFICIAL. Total 2,547,371 Pounds . 610, 875 97,801 276, 917 358,882 1, 813, 771 537,812 771,336 4, 792, 103 Pounds . 6, 009, 552 2, 155, 020 TARNS PURCHASED. Although the value of the woolen and worsted yarns consumed is an important item in the wool manu- facture, other yarns are also used to a large amount. The first of the statements following shows the quantity and value of yarns purchased in the years 1880, 1890, and 1900, and the second the quantity and value of each kind of yarn purchased in each branch of the woolen industry in 1900. Comparisons with the reports of the ' census of 1890 show that the total quantity of yarn purchased has increased 45,449,515 pounds, of which 13,903,884 pounds were woolen, 9,710,054 pounds worsted, 3,841,975 pounds cotton, and 16,169,736 pounds jute. The quantity of linen yarn used has decreased 1,406,846 pounds and of silk yarns 96,636, while mohair yarns have disappeared from the list. YARNS PURCHASED, 1880 TO 1900. YEAR. Pounds. Cost. 1900 181, 104, 221 135, 654, 706 55,535,390 $45, 588, 908 42, 142, 403 20, 814, 384 1890 1880 WOOL. YARNS PURCHASED IN 1900. 97 TOTAL. WOOLEN MILLS. WORSTED MILLS. CARPET MILLS. FELT MILLS. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Total 181,104,221 $45, 588, 908 35, 595, 804 810,645,437 35,679,243 $19, 598, 986 109, 699, 152 815,293,979 150,022 850,506 38, 903, 178 34,377,736 3,904,515 55,217,994 70,073 250,270 8,415,275 39,965,180 7,705,797 23,068,988 709,894 9,568,864 334,001 489, 537 1,178,414 2,533,413 3,059,771 6,214,076 3,215,245 21, 922, 136 34,007 23, 957 7,845 1,118,767 1,272,954 4,791,079 516,636 3,782,240 145,514 72, 632 6,998 57,384 2, 847, 091 18,896,863 419, 434 13,420,590 26,418 47,533 1,314 1, 402, 189 14,704,172 147, 891 3, 032, 039 144, 971 166, 672 1,052 32,996,316 9,218,267 237,970 19,823,561 9,634 178,780 8,388,211 38,846,413 5,030,654 3,544,860 38,994 2,744,928 43,455 250,233 1, 164, 826 2,476,029 48, 530 31,866 51,707 14 28,877 6,373 9,657 Silk 61 17,905 5,538 Jute, ramie, or other yarns of veg- DYEING AND FINISHING. The products of the wool manufacture are of three classes, goods dyed in the wool, in the yarn, and piece dyed goods, the names of which are sufficiently descrip- tive. Most manufacturers have their own dyeing and finishing plants, but in many cases the goods are sent to some outside dyeing establishment to be dyed and finished. The cost of this work is an important item to the manufacturer. The following statement shows the quantity of goods operated on in dyeing and finish- ing mills, and the value added by the process: MATERIALS Total . Wool Woolen yarns Worsted yarns Woolen piece goods . Worsted piece goods. Mixed goods Quantity dyed (pounds). 2,408,511 20,755,984 8,474,562 111,243,394 19,413,337 Added value. 84,240,456 83,071 557,001 491,291 451,864 476,951 2,180,278 i Square yards. PRODUCTS. The value of products as given in the tables is the gross value as ascertained from the various sched- ules. This value includes much duplication, for not infrequently the finished product of one establish- ment enters as a material into another, and after going through certain manipulations appears again as a prod- uct, to again enter another establishment as mate- rial. In a wool-combing establishment, for instance, the top is produced and sold to the worsted spinning mill, where it is made into yarn, which is sold to the worsted cloth or dress goods weaver, in whose hands it becomes the finished product, ready for the clothing manufacturer or the market, as the case may be. Thus, the value of the top and the value of the yarn, as well as the value of the finished cloth, all appear in the total value of products, while it is clear that the true value is the value of the finished cloth. If, as was formerly the custom in all and is now the practice in many establishments, all these processes were carried on under one management, these duplications of value would not arise. At the Eleventh Census it was found impossible to eliminate these duplications, but at the census of 1900 the schedules were so prepared as to permit of the separation of the materials used into raw materials upon which no manufacturing processes have been employed and materials purchased in partly manu- factured form. GROSS AND NET VALUES. The value of the products of the wool manufacture was $296,990,484 in 1900, compared with $270,527,511 MON TEXT 7 in 1890, an increase of 9.8 per cent. These values are in each case the gross value, ascertained by the addition of the sums representing the production of the various establishments, many of which make only yarn, or other partially manufactured products, which enter into other factories for further manipulation. In 1890 the true value was ascertained as nearly as possible by deducting the value of woolen and worsted yarns purchased, less the duty paid value of foreign yarns purchased. The sum thus ascertained was as- sumed to be the true value of the production of all woolen mills. To this sum was added the true value of the product of the shoddy mills, similarly ascertained, to obtain the total net value. In the reports for the Twelfth Census the items du- plicated are as follows: All wastes and noils, tops, woolen, worsted, and merino 3 T arns, hat bodies, and hats in the rough. These being made in woolen mills, enter twice into the value of product, being reported first by the mills making them and afterwards by the mills using them. Their value and also the sum paid for contract work should be taken from the total value ascertained for goods produced. The result obtained by the elimination of these items will not be strictly comparable with the amount obtained as the net value in 1890, but will be as nearly as possible the net value of the product of the industry. The cost of all duplicated items in the wool manufac- ture in all its branches is $41,391,681. This sum does not include $21,982 for fur hat bodies and hats in the 98 MANUFACTURES. rough reported under wool hats. From it the duty paid value of foreign yarns, $228,872, imported during the census year, should be subtracted, which leaves $41,162,809 as the cost of material twice reported in the value of product. The difference between this sum and the gross value, or $255,827,675, is the net or true value of products in these mills in 1900. The following is a statement of woven goods pro- duced in 1900 and 1890, arranged according to their classification as all wool, mixed, and cotton-warp fabrics: WOVEN GOODS PRODUCED IN WOOLEN AND WORSTED MILLS, 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE. Total All wool, whether woolen or worsted Union or cotton mixed Cotton warp, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair (or cotton weft with warp of wool) Year. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 Square yards. 426,672,856 381, 004, 461 216,359,702 130, 115, 152 57, 334, 570 56, 322, 882 152,878,584 194,566,427 Per cent of in- crease. $183, 306, 664 169,409,239 121.4 Value. 117, 757, 169 81, 742, 586 23, 111, 696 24, 304, 966 42, 437, 799 63, 361, 687 Per cent of 8.2 133.0 i Decrease. The following table shows the products of the wool manufacture, of all classes, in 1890 and 1900: Table 14.— WOOL MANUFACTURES: KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS, 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE. Total . Woolen, worsted, union, and cotton warp cloths, coatings, cassimeres, jeans, etc., for men's wear, square yards Value Woolen, worsted, union, and cotton warp overcoating-*, eloakings, etc., for men's and women's wear, square yards Value Woolen, worsted, union, and cotton warp dress goods, sackings, tricots, opera flan- nels, cassimeres, buntings, ladies' cloth, alpaca, etc., for women's wear, square yards Value All wool, union, and cotton warp flannels, square yards ' - . . Value Satinets, square yards Value Linings, Italian cloth, and lastings, square yards Value Jersey cloth, square yards V alue Carriage cloths, square yards Value Total piecegoods— Square yards Value Woven shawls of wool or worsted, square yards Value All wool, union, and cotton warp blank- ets, square yards Value 169, 177, 028 $97,852,209 29, 647, 495 $21,666,019 155,767,439 $45,278,216 20, 117, 663 $4, 613, 129 13, 051, 729 $2, 873, 181 10, 157, 039 $2,228,434 2,784 $1,010 1,220,408 399, 141, 585 $175, 209, 197 600,104 $500,623 18,165,505 $6,200,959 1890 $270, 527, 511 122,064,528 $88,261,748 14,883,893 $13,082,801 127, 259, 709 $32, 285, 906 61, 195, 501 $18,582,549 18, 630, 656 $4,296,082 4,585,080 $1, 255, 520 7,476 $13, 636 1, 282, 921 $626, 791 349,909,764 $158, 405, 033 4,768,652 $2,098,523 20, 793, 644 $7, 153, 900 Per cent of in- crease. 9. 8 38.6 10.9 99.2 65.6 22.4 40.2 167.1 175.2 129.9 133.1 121.5 77.5 162.8 192.6 14.9 11.2 14.1 10.6 187.4 176.1 112.7 127.3 Table 14.— WOOL MANUFACTURES: KIND, QUANTITY AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS, 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE— Continued. All wool, union, and cotton warp horse blankets, square yards Value Carriage robes, square yards Value Total- Square yards Value Woolen, worsted, and union upholstery goods, square yards Value Braids and picture cards, etc., running yards Value Total value Ingrain carpets, 2 and 3 ply and ingrain art carpets, square yards Value Tapestry and body Brussels, tapestry vel- vet, Wilton, Axminster, and Moquette carpets, running yards Value Smyrna carpets, square yards., Value All other carpets, square yards Value Smyrna rugs, square yards Value All other rugs, square yards Value Total value of carpets and rugs . . Felt cloths, endless belts, trimmings, lin- ings, etc., square yards Value All other felts, value Total value of felt goods Wool hats, dozens - Value i Decrease. Wool -hat bodies, dozens Value . .• Woolen and union or merino yarns, pounds Value Worsted and mohair yarns, pounds Value : Cotton yarns, pounds Value Wool rolls, noils, waste, and all other partly manufactured products, pounds. . . Value Total yarns and partly manufactured products: Value Woolen, merino, and cotton half hose, dozens '. Value Woolen, merino, and cotton hose, dozens. . . Value Gloves and mittens, dozens Value Total value of hosiery and knit goods All other products, 6 value Contract work, value 1900 7,315,304 $1, 740, 988 1, 740, 089 $987, 109 27,811,002 $8, 429, 579 541,909 $786, 461 ( 2 ) $2, 922, 850 $3, 709, 311 42, 352, 500 $15,405,081 32,423,883 $21, 036, 996 858, 189 SI, 188, 707 2, 793, 472 $2,491,911 6,195,054 $3, 460, 077 $43, 582, 772 6,933,524 $3,078,949 $2,285,340 $5,364,289 823,425 $3,166,761 56,006 $120,262 49, 796, 632 $11, 748, 895 46,784,385 $32,095,805 3, 531, 992 $527,046 23,283,240 2 $5, 231, 377 $49, 723, 385 4,290 $13,520 908 $3, 302 1,238 $4,641 $21,463 $6,170,673 $1,613,054 1890 5,507,074 $1,721,516 775, 963 $646, 904 31, 835, 333 $11,620,843 4,131,288 $2, 365, 881 133, 859, 751 $1, 268, 252 $3, 634, 133 36, 726, 370 $15, 924, 452 36, 536, 565 $27, 125, 980 127, 177 $332, 718 1,394,153 $451, 486 41,430,036 $2, 368, 000 133, 767 $261,781 $46,464,417 6,662,759 $2, 930, 199 $1,284,325 $4, 214, 524 1,046,481 $5, 229, 176 (*) 41, 362, 993 $12, 590, 267 29, 359, 182 $22,397,721 3,192,936 $632, 849 12,850,039 $3, 176, 653 $38, 797, 460 2,438 $7, 721 9,147 $21,363 1,931 $6,950 $36,034 $1, 971, 624 $154, 337 Per cent of in- crease. 32.8 1.1 124.2 52.6 112.6. 127.5 186.9 166.8 130.5 2.1 15.3 13.3 1 11. 3 122.4 674.8 257.3 (4) c „ 6.2 ( 4 ) 1,221.7 ■6.2 4.1 5.1 77.9 27.3 121.3 139.4 20.4 16.7 59.4 43.3 10.6 U6.7 81.2 64.7 28.2 76.0 75.1 190.1 184.5 135.9 133.2 140.4 213.0 945.2 1 Decrease. 2 Not reported. 3 Nothing reported under this heading. * Number of rugs reported in 1890; square yards reported in 1900. 6 All other products include, in addition to the usual miscellany, some small amounts of hosiery and knit goods that were not reported in both censuses; hence they could not be compared. The first group, woolen cloths, etc. , the piece-goods production, as shown in Table 30, shows an increase in 1900 over 1890 of 49,231,821 square yards in quantity, and $16,804,164 in value. In the second group, shawls, blankets, and carriage robes, there is a decrease both in quantity and value. The quantity is 4,024,331 square yards and the value $3,191,264 less than in 1890. The third group likewise shows a reduction which evidently WOOL. 99 arises from a change in classification which makes it appear that only 541,909 square yards of upholstery goods were made in 1900, against 4,131,288 square yards in 1890. That no such falling off in the manu- facture occurred is certain, and the products have been reported under the head of all other products, or with other piece goods. In the carpet manufacture the yardage exceeds the yardage reported in 1890, but the value is reduced $2,881,645, which is accounted for by the lower cost of materials, and the larger production of the lower grades of carpets. The products of the felt manufacture have increased both in quantity and value. The wool-hat manufacture shows a decrease. The production of partially manufactured products for sale shows a large increase, of which the greater part, is in yarns. In 1890 the production of yarns equalled 73,915,111 pounds, valued at $35,620,837. At the census of 1900 the production was 100,113,009 pounds, worth $44,371,746, an increase of 35.4 per cent in quantity and of 24. 6 per cent in value. The value reported for all other products has increased nearly one-half. An item not previously reported, appears here, namely, "Contract work," being the amount received in certain mills for work done for other establishments. It is properly added to the gross prod- uct, but is offset by the sums reported, as paid for con- tract work under the head of miscellaneous expenses. CLASS I — WOOLEN GOODS. The card-wool branch of the wool manufacture has always been preeminent in the variety of its products and their adaptability to the needs of the consumer. It is also numerically the most important. It is in the woolen mills that the great mass of goods required for clothing the people has been made. The products con- sist of broadcloths, doeskins, cassimeres, satinets, jeans, flannels, blankets, woolen and cotton mixed dress goods, linings, etc. At the census of 1900 the industry seems to be in danger of yielding its relative importance. The introduction of the worsted cloth for men's wear and the wonderful development of the knit-goods manu- facture have made great inroads on the consumption of carded wool goods which formerly were necessities, substituting combed wool fabrics for men's wear and knitted underwear in place of flannels. Principally for these reasons the returns show a falling off in every par- ticular, and it is only in woolen goods and in the wool hat manufacture that the wool industry shows loss. The reduction in the number of establishments may be attributed mainly to the gradual disappearance of small country mills and to some extent to the transfer of mills from the carded to the combed wool manufacture. The following table is a summary of the statistics of the woolen-goods manufacture from 1840 to 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade: Table 15.— WOOLEN GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1840 TO 1900, WITH PEE CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1900 1800 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 1870 to 1880 1860 to 1870 1850 to 1860 1840 to 1850 Number of establishments 1,035 $124, 886, 262 2,246 S2, 934, 048 68, 893 $24, 757, 006 40, 601 $16, 913, 731 24, 535 $7,218,087 3,757 $625, 188 $7, 268, 634 $71,011,956 $118,430,158 1,906,581 34, 881 1,311 $130,989,940 2 2,436 3 $2, 339, 737 76, 915 $26, 139, 194 42, 130 $17, 059, 323 30, 159 $8, 371, 274 < 4,626 $708, 597 $8,402,623 $82,270,335 $133,677,977 1,815,880 39, 118 1,990 $96,095,564 ! 4 S 86, 604 $25, 836, 392 46, 978 ( 4 ) 29, 372 I 4 ) 10, 154 ( 4 ) ( 5 ) $100, 845, 611 $160, 606, 721 1, 766, 746 35,634 2,891 $98,824,531 a 80, 063 $26, 877, 575 42,728 ( 4 ) 27, 682 ( 4 ) 9,643 ( 4 ) ( 6 ) $96, 432, 601 $155,405,368 1,845,496 34,183 1,260 $30, 862, 654 41, 360 $9, 610, 264 24,841 2,' ( 3 ) ,417,! ', 857, 1 ( 4 ) 1850 116 $3, 852, 981 6,186 $1, 246, 560 3,881 2,305 $3,075,592 $5,401,234 PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 123. 16. 78. 72. l 1. ( 5 ) 1. 2. l 4. 13. 3. 1. 51. 14. 0. 11. 1880 to 1890 111.3 78.0 41.1 62. 7 35.1 52.6 18.2 50. 9 50. 3 54.9 1870 to 1880 19.3 71.2 68.4 •16.0 48.4 74.2 39.8 46.1 33.7 1860 to 1870 0.9 165.6 1850 to 1860 83.6 22.5 81.1 202.9 74.1 8.0 24.0 0.7 207.3 177.0 43.6 45.5 i Decrease. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 33.) 8 Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. 6 Less than one-tenth of 1 per cent. The table shows not only the growth of the industry, but also the tendency toward combination of capital and centralization of industries; beginning in 1850 with 116 establishments and $3,852,981 capital, it increased in twenty years to 215 establishments with a capital of $12,540,750. Since then each census report has shown a decreased number of factories 1 and an in- creased capital. At this time the number has been reduced to nearly the original number of 1850, but the capital is nearly twelve times the amount employed in that year. The number of wage- earners and the amount paid in wages vary but little in the reports of the cen- sus of 1900 from the corresponding statements of the one preceding. The number of sets of cards employed has increased from 392 to 468 and the number of combs from 118 to 134, but the number of spinning spindles employed in the carpet mills shows a decrease of 41,735, which is wholly in worsted spindles. The woolen and cotton spindles each show an increased number. In 1890 there were 151,132 worsted spindles, but in 1900 only 97,191 were reported as in operation. The fol- lowing tabular statement shows the number of looms, both hand and power, employed on each variety of car- 1 1870 showed 2 more establishments than 1860. pets in 1900 and 1890, and also the transfer of manufac- turing forces from hand to power looms in the decade, and from one kind of carpet to another. The total number of looms employed in the carpet mills was 12,511, an increase of 1,276 over 1890. Of these looms 1,757 were engaged in the production of woolen or worsted cloth, leaving 10,754 looms for the carpet manufacture, which is 144 less than was shown in 1890. The ingrain carpet manufacture employed 4,693 looms; 1,835 were engaged on tapestry Brussels, velvets, and rugs; 544 on Brussels; 507 on Wiltons; 761 on Axminster and Mo- quettes; and 80 on Venetian carpets. The 955 hand looms and 1,358 power looms engaged in the rug manu- facture were included in the total num ber of carpet looms. The number of hand looms was about two-fifths of the number employed in 1890, and the decrease was almost the same numerically as the increase in power- looms. The changes from Brussels to tapestry velvet looms, and from body Brussels to Wilton and Axminster, do not necessarily indicate a throwing out of looms of either class and their replacement by others, but simply the change of product of the looms, only slight alterations being necessary to adapt a tapestry Brussels loom for making tapestry velvet, or a body Brussels for making Wiltons. LOOMS IN CARPET MANUFACTORIES, 1890 AND 1900. INGRAINS. YEAR. Total all looms. Total all looms on carpets. Hand. Power. Broad. Hand. Power. Hand. ' Power. Hand. Power. 1900. 12, 511 11,235 10, 764 10,898 1,048 2,598 9,706 8,300 92 631 4,354 4,214 * 1 246 80 1890... 157 109 TAPESTRY. Body Brussels, power. Wilton, power. Axmin- ster, Mo- quette, power. RUG. LOOMS ON WOOLEN GOODS. YEAR. Brussels, power. Velvet, power. po wer. Hand. Power. Broad. Narrow . Hand. 1,094 1,498 737 58 544 1 991 507 150 955 1,383 S7R 814 194 897 44 46 99 106 MANUFACTURES. Materials Consumed. — The cost of materials used, which amounted in 1900 to $27,228,719, against $28,644,- 905 in 1890, shows a small reduction, 4.9 per cent, but this arises from reduced prices and changes in character of materials used, and not from lessened quan- tity, as shown in the following table: QUANTITIES OF MATERIALS USED IN THE CARPET MAN- UFACTURE: 1900 AND 1890. Foreign wool used: Pounds Cost Domestic wool used: Pounds Cost Scoured wool, pounds Hair, all kinds, pounds Cotton, pounds Shoddy, etc., pounds "Waste, noils, etc., pounds Woolen yarn, pounds Worsted yarn, pounds Mixed yarn, pounds Cotton yarn , pounds Linen yarn, pounds Jute and other yarns, pounds 1900 1890 51,761,523 54,742,234 $8, 077, 420 $9, 422, 031 109,811 2, 139, 332 $26, 687 $433, 756 37,560,231 35,726,837 6, 189, 757 4,647,025 1,943,942 1,725,761 744, 233 598, 512 2,525,054 892, 548 32, 996, 316 18,763,201 9,218,267 10, 555, 799 237,970 19, 823, 561 17,920,498 8,388,211 9,719,242 39,034,827 23,852,517 The total quantity of materials used, including wool "in condition purchased," was 172,973,472 pounds, as compared with 145,556,669 pounds in 1890, an increase of 27,416,803 pounds in all, equal to 18.8 per cent.. The quantity of wool in condition purchased was 5,010,232 pounds less than was used in 1890, but this wool when scoured shows a smaller amount of shrinkage than appeared in 1890, so that the quantity of clean wool used exceeded the quantity used in 1890 by 1,833,- 394 pounds. In addition to the scoured wool, 1,750,913 pounds of other fibers in the raw state were used in 1900 in excess of the quantity used in 1890, and 12,895,583 pounds more of woolen and worsted yarns and 15,992,- 312 pounds more of other yarns, manufactured in other- mills, were used than were used ten years previously. The total quantity of purchased yarns used in 1900 was 109,699,152 pounds. In 1890, 80,811,257 pounds of yarns were used. Production.— The production has likewise experi- enced a continuous growth. In 1850 the mills produced goods to the value of $5,401,234, using materials cost- ing $3,075,592. Each decade has seen an increase in value of product; at the census of 1900 the production had increased to $48,192,351, and the cost of materials used to $27,228,719. It is true that the value of prod- ucts is but slightly more than the similar amount in 1890, but the production of carpets, measured in run- ning yards, the yard-wide and the three-quarter goods being all counted together, was 760,917 yards in excess of the production of that year. The following state- ment, in which the figures for 1880 are also included, furnishes the data for a more correct estimate of the actual relative production of the two periods: QUANTITY AND KIND OF CARPETS PRODUCED, 1880 TO 1900. BATE OF CENSUS. Total carpets, running yards. Ingrain, Ingrain, 2-ply. | 3-ply, square yards, square yards. Ingrain, art, square yards. Venetian, running yards. Body Brus- sels, running yards. Tapestry Brussels, run- ning yards. Tapestry vel- vet, running yards. 75,331,827 74, 770, 910 39,282,634 36,698,292' 3,222.557 32,918,659 1 3,251,368 21,986,434 862,394 2,328,906 553, 513 3, 581, 991 9, 442, 348 4, 077, 190 11,649,932 20, 008, 961 9, 441, 195 5,706,754 2,482,128 1,984,201 60,000 DATE OK CENSUS. Wilton and Wilton velvet running yards. Axminster, running yards. Moquette, running yards. Smyrna, square yards. Cottage, square yards. Dutch, square yards. Rag, square yards. All other, square yards. 4, 782, 835 1,030,101 157, 629 5,074,961 379, 341 303, 366 1, 627, 410 3, 193, 186 858,189 127, 177 71,310 157, 005 1,312,818 241,220 12,000 The comparative production of each of the two great divisions of the manufacture is as follows: The num- ber of yards of ingrain carpets, which includes all the 2 and 3 ply carpets and ingrain art squares, which amounted to 36,723,540 square yards in 1890, in 1900 amounted to 42,249,755 square yards, an increase of 5,526,215 square yards; the number of running yards of all three-quarter carpets, that is, the tapestries, Brussels, Wiltons, etc., which in 1890 was 36,536,065 yards, in 1900 showed adduction to 32,423,883 yards, a falling off of 4,112,182 running yards. By reducing the three-quarter goods to the square-yard measure- ment, a uniform standard is reached, by which a com- parison of the total yardage of the manufacture can be obtained, except that in 1890 the report of the manufac- ture of rugs was made in number of individual rugs, while at the census of 1900 the report was made in square yards. If rugs are reported in square yards hereafter, there will be no difficulty in making com- parisons of the total production of these mills by quantity. The production of three-quarter wide carpet in 1890 was 36,536,065 running yards, equal to 27,402,049 square yards. In 1900 the production of similar car- pets was 32,423,883 running yards, equal to 24,317,912 square yards. The total production of carpets, there- fore, aside from the quantities of rugs manufactured and Smyrna carpets reported as rugs, was equal to 64,125,589 square yards in 1890 and 66,567,667 square yards in 1900, an increase of 2,442,078 square yards. In addition to the carpets produced, there were 8,984,194 square 3 r ards of rugs made, which makes the total carpets and rugs manufactured, as reported at the Twelfth Census, 75,551,861 square yards. There has WOOL. 107 been a very great increase in the production of rugs. In 1890 the value of all rugs, not including the Smyrna carpets, was $2,628,781; in 1900 it had increased to $5,948,898, a gain of $3,320,117. The total value was nearly one-eighth of the total value of the products of the carpet mills, and indicates the greatly increased use of rugs for floor coverings. In 1890 the value of rugs' manufactured was less than one-fourteenth part of the total value of the carpet-mill productions. The following are the statistics of the rug manufac- ture, the value being given for both 1890 and 1900. In 1890 rugs were reported in number of pieces, but in 1900 the report was made in square yards. COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF RUGS MANUFACTURED, 1900 AND 1890. Total: Square yards Value Tapestry: Square yards Value Wilton: Square yards Value Moquette and Axminster Square yards Value Ingrain: Square yards Value Smyrna rugs: Square yards Value Other rugs: Square yards Value 1900 1S90 8,984,194 $5, 948 898 1 1, 565, 303 $2, 628, 781 It,, 750 $9,000 339, 784 $545, 967 » 40, 644 $87, 702 327,598 $342, 262 1 60, 000 $66,000 393,417 $168, 324 16,278 $34, 262 2,793,472 $2,491,911 11,429,536 $2, 367, 000 5,111,173 $2,391,434 1 28, 845 $73, 817 i Quantities in 1890 are all by numbers of pieces instead of square yards. The change in fashion for floor coverings is well illustrated by the change in the character of the carpets manufactured. In the tapestry Brussels the production has fallen off 8,359,029 yards, but in the tapestry velvets it has increased 3,224,626 yards. The production of body Brussels carpets has been reduced 5,860,357 yards, but the Wiltons, Axminster, and Moquette have in- creased 6,882,578 yards. In the cut pile carpets there also is a change, the Moquette, which in 1890 was an exceedingly popular carpet, has fallen off 50 per cent in quantity of product while the Axminsters have in- creased from 379,341 to 5,074,961 yards. The Wiltons also have become popular, and the manufacture has grown from a small beginning in 1880 to 1,030,101 yards in 1890, to 4,782,835 yards in 1900. The favor in which the various velvet or cut pile carpets are held and the fashion for hard-wood floors, for which ingrain carpets and art squares form a suitable covering, ac- counts to a great extent for the reduction in the quan- tity of tapestry and body Brussels carpets, as compared with the previous census. The location of the industry was the same in 1900 as in 1890, principally in the states of Pennsylvania, New York, Massachusetts, and New Jersey, which ranked in amount of capital employed and value of products in the order named. There were important factories in other states, especially in Connecticut; but as these states have only one or two establishments each, their statistics are not separately stated. Pennsylvania was the chief seat of the industry, centered in Philadelphia and its suburbs, employing about three-eighths of the capital invested and producing nearly one-half of the total value of carpets and rugs manufactured. Out of 4, 693 ingrain looms engaged, 3,737 were in this state, which also pos- sessed 537 of the 1,831 tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet looms in the country, and 1,220, or more than half, of the Smyrna looms. New York had 1,057 of the tapestry looms and Massachusetts 217. Of the 1,812 Brussels, Wilton, and similar looms for the manufac- ture of the highest grades of carpets, Massachusetts possessed 752, New York 542, and Pennsylvania 267. In the manufacture of Smyrna carpets and rugs New Jersey was next to Pennsylvania, having 794 looms, and was followed by New York with 295 looms. New York and Massachusetts, therefore, were the great producers of the higher grades of carpets, while Pennsylvania and New Jersey were the homes of the more common ingrain carpet and the art squares as well as the Smyrna rug. The imports of carpets and rugs for the fiscal year 1900 amounted to only 820,731 square yards, having a foreign value of $2,555,620. Of these importations, 640,111 square yards were rugs of high quality, either Aubusson, Axminster, or rugs of similar character, or the oriental rugs, all articles of luxury, and were valued at $2,329,106 abroad. The American carpet manufac- turers, it is evident, have complete control of the home market, and are able to supply all the needs of the American people. CLASS IV. — FELT GOODS. The following table presents a summary of the felt- goods industry for the census years 1880, 1890, and 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade: Table 18.— FELT GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1880 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. Number of establishments. . Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc. number Salaries Wage-earners, average num ber Total wages Men, 16 years and oyer . Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages * Children, under 16 years. Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products Number of spindles Number of looms $7,125,276 1880 136 $231,065 2,688 $1,024,835 1,957 $820, 637 658 8191,090 73 $13, 108 8356, 164 83,801,028 $6,461,691 24,286 284 34 $4,460,621 ■124 i $157, 916 2,142 $883, 380 1,474 $721, 796 506 8134, 273 162 $27, 311 $232,871 $2, 809, 937 Si, 654, 768 13,829 210 26 81, 958, 254 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) 1,524 $439, 760 1,203 ( 2 ) 233 (°) 88 ( 2 ) < 4 i $2,530,710 83,619,652 ( 4 ) 4 ) PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 5.9 59.7 9.7 46.3 25.5 16. 32.8 13.7 30. 42.3 '54.9 »52.0 52.9 35.3 38.8 75.6 35.3 1880 to 1890 40.6 100.9 22. 5 117.2 "ii'i 11.0 28.6 i Includes proprietors and firm members and their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. 2 Not reported separately. 8 Decrease. 4 Xnt reported. , 108 MANUFACTURES. In number of establishments its growth in the last decade has been > small, but in other respects its devel- opment has been large. The capital increased 59.7 per cent, the cost of materials used 35.3 per cent, and the value of products 38. 8 per cent. The principal products were felt cloths, boot and shoe linings, upholstery felts, trimmings and lining felts, felt skirts, and endless belts for paper-making machines. Many of the productions of the felt manufacture can not be measured in yards, but can be reported only in pieces or pounds. One- third in value of the products of these mills in 1900 was of this class, comprising slippers and shoes, pol- ishing felts and wheels, piano keys, and an endless va- riety of other goods. The quantity of felt cloths man- ufactured in 1900 was about, the same as in 1890, but in boot and shoe linings the quantity was only 1,052,538 square yards, about half of the product of 1890. End- less belts for printing machines increased from 216,982 to 1,114,357 square yards, while trimmings and lining felts increased from 1,176,114 square yards in 1890 to 2,469,830 in 1900. CLASS V. WOOL HATS. The wool-hat manufacture is properly a part of the felt industry, the hats being made by a process of felt- ing, and are thus distinguished from the ordinary prod- ucts of the loom. The process of wool-hat making is very simple and yet very ingenious. The wool, as it comes from the card in a continuous lap, is wound upon a machine consisting of two cones placed base to base and revolving upon an axis placed parallel to the end of the card. The double cone is so rotated that the continuous lap of wool is wound in a zigzag manner, crossing and recrossing from end to end. When a sufficient quantity of wool has been received, the ma- chine is stopped, the double cone of wool is divided in the center, the two resulting hat bodies removed for felting, and the process repeated. From the time the hat leaves the cone until it is ready for the market each hat is the subject of individual treatment, and it is only by the subdivision of the various processes of felting, dyeing, stiffening, blocking, finishing, and trimming, and the distribution of the work among many hands, that it is possible for the comparatively few hat fac- tories to supply the demand. As is stated elsewhere in this report, the fur-hat manufacture has interfered very seriously with the manufacture of wool hats. The following table shows the statistics of the wool- hat manufacture at the censuses of 1880, 1890, and 1900, with per cent of increase for each decade: Table 19.— WOOL HATS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY,' 1880 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. Number of establishments . . Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage-earners, average num- ber Total wages Men, 16 years and over.. Wages Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years. Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products DATE OF CENSUS. 1900 24 $2,060,802 57 $66, 766 2,108 $937,855 1,358 $727,253 651 $195, 995 99 $14, 607 $185,644 $2,042,202 $3, 591, 940 1890 32 $4, 142, 224 = 92 2 $113, 968 3,500 $1,249,976 2,220 $980, 030 1,121 $251,661 159 $18,285 $249, 568 $2,802,041 $5,329,921 1880 43 $3, 615, 830 5,470 $1, 893, 215 3,222 ( 8 ) 1,459 ( 8 ) 789 ) 785, 774 ftS, 516, 569 PEE CENT OK INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 125.0 150.5 138.0 141.4 125.0 138.8 125.8 141.9 122.1 137.7 120.1 125.6 127.1 132.6 1880 to 1890 125.6 14.6 136.0 134.0 131.1 >23.2 '179." 8 141.4 137.4 ^ DccrsfljSG. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only- reported in 1900, but not included in this table. Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. Making no reference to the condition of the industry in 1880, it will be seen that since 1890 the number of establishments has fallen off 25 per cent, the capital 50. 5 per cent, the cost of materials used 27.1 per cent, and the value of products 32.6 per cent. In all the various items of expense there has been a similar reduction. There has not, however, been so large a decrease in the wool-hat industry as the items named would seem to indicate. In 1890, 972,375 dozen wool hats were manu- factured, valued at $4,611,851; in 1900 the number of dozens is 811,425, valued at $3,161,361, so that a very considerable part of the loss is attributable to reduced value per unit of quantity. The wool-hat manufacture is so closely allied to. the manufacture of fur hats that it was thought best to secure the returns of the latter industry in connec- tion with those of the wool manufacture. The reports, however, are tabulated separately, and are not included in any of the tables pertaining to that industry. The detailed statistics for the fur-hat manufacture will be found in Table 40, which follows the general tables belonging to the other industry. A brief history, with a general statement of the process of manufacture and the progress of the industry, is presented in connection with the report on wool hats. THE FUR HAT MANUFACTURE. Until the census of 1900 no attempt was made to obtain a separate statement of the statistics for the fur- hat manufacture. They had been included with those of hats and caps, not including wool hats. In 1890 the value of all hats and caps reported, except wool hats, was $37,311,599, the production of which gave employ- ment to 25,931 wage-earners, receiving $12,650,917 in wages. Capital amounting to $13,724,002 was invested in the business, and the material consumed was valued at $16,160,802. The capital employed in the manu- facture of all these classes of head coverings was $3,000,000 less in 1890 than was invested in the fur-hat WOOL. 109 manufacture alone in 1900. The cost of materials used in 1900 was within $3,000,000 of the cost shown for the hat and cap industry in 1890, and the value of products was not quite $10,000,000 less than the total for hats and caps, except wool hats, for 1890. The following is a summary of the statistics of the fur-hat industry for 1900: Table 20.— FUE HATS: SUMMARY FOR 1900. Number of establishments 171 Capital $16, 701, 308 Salaried officials, clerks, etc. , number 726 Salaries .' 1943,998 Wage-earners, average number 18, 880 Total wages $9,119,264 Men, 16 years and over 13, 187 Wages $7,231,777 Women, 16 years and over 5, 436 Wages $1, 840, 454 Children, under 16 years 257 Wages $47, 033 Miscellaneous expenses $1, 416, 737 Cost of materials used $13, 513, 668 Value of products $27, 811, 187 The total number of establishments engaged in the industry was 171, located 59 in New Jersey, 58 in Connecticut, 20 in Pennsylvania, 15 in New York, 11 in Massachusetts, and 8 in other states. The capital em- ployed was distributed in the various states as follows: Pennsylvania, $5,726,259; Connecticut, $3,197,551; New York, $3,050,381; New Jersey, $2,932,311; Massachu- setts, $1,467,700; all others, $327,106. In number of wage-earners the order was: Connecticut, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts. In amount of wages New Jersey led, and Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts followed in the order named. New Jersey reported the manufacture of 590,939 dozen fur hats, valued at $6,773,402; Connect- icut, 497,683 dozens, valued at $6,543,736; New York, 226,061 dozens, valued at $5,052,570; Pennsylvania, 280,880 dozens, valued at $4,203,169; Massachusetts, 227,032 dozens, valued at $2,244,941; and all otherstates, 59,777 dozens, valued at $567,688. The total number of dozens made was 1,882,372, and the value $25,385,506. The average value per dozen was within a fraction of $13.50, but, as the preceding statements show, there is a wide range in value. The New York manufacture shows the highest average value, $22.35, and Massachu- setts the lowest, $9.88. The material from which fur hats are made is the fur of the rabbit, coney, and nutria, and is mostly imported, sometimes on the skin, but more often cut. There are some large fur-cutting establishments in the United States, and some of the most important fur-hat factories cut their own fur. The finest fur comes from Germany, where it is cut from skins brought thither from various places. After the skins have been properly opened and stretched, and the hairs removed by pulling, they are subjected to a process called " carroting," an application of mercury and nitric acid, which causes the fur fibers to hold together. The separation of the fur from the skin is accomplished by cutting the skin into shreds, by means of rapidly revolving shear blades, fixed just below a table, but so adjusted that as the skin passes under a roller or guide fixed above the shear blade, the skin is cut into shreds and drops beneath the machine. The fur, without the apparent displacement of a fiber, passes on to the other side of the roller, whence it is removed and packed away until required. Until 1846 the making of fur hats was carried on en- tirely by hand. In 1835 a machine for stiffening hat bodies by immersing them in solutions of different strength and afterwards pressing them between rollers was patented by Henry Blynn, of Newark, N. J. In 1837 Thomas Blanchard patented a process of forming bats for fur hats by means of a rapidly rotating picker brush, which disintegrated the materials and threw them upon an endless apron or band of fine wire cloth by means of a current of air, produced by an exhaust- ing fan beneath the apron. The thin, narrow ribbon or web thus formed was wound upon a double cone of a size to form two hat bodies. The machine was not successful in practice. The first process in manufacturing hats is the mix- ing of various kinds or qualities of fur to produce the quality of hat wanted, which is done by a machine called a "devil," in which the fibers are pulled apart and thoroughly mingled. It is then taken to the blow- ing machine, where it is kept constantly agitated in a light current of air. The matted pieces, if any, and such pieces of skin as there may be with fur attached, together with the hair and dirt thrown out from the fine fur, drop through a set of sieves which Separate the valuable pieces of fur for further treatment. The blowing process continues until the fur is perfectty free from all extraneous matter, when it leaves the machine in a lap, fine and soft, but so light and filmy that it hardly bears the touch. The hat-forming process comes next in order. The fur as it comes from the blower is weighed out into boxes, each containing a sufficient quantity for one hat, according to the weight and quality of hat to be made, the usual range being from two to six ounces per hat. These boxes of fur are conveyed to a machine, called a "former," which consists of a revolving cone, made of brass or copper of suitable size for the hat body. This cone is pierced with innumerable small holes, through which a current of air is drawn by means of an exhausting fan. There is also an arrangement by which minute jets of hot water are thrown upon the newly formed hat body to give it a sufficient consistency to permit its removal from the cone. 110 MANUFACTURES. The process is as follows: The fur is fed through a tube to a revolving cylinder which thoroughly opens and distributes the fur; at the same time the former is set in motion and the current of air produced bj the fan draws the fur into the machine and spreads it evenly over the surface of the cone, which during the operation is inclosed in a tight box. When the fur is properly distributed the box is opened and the jets of water are thrown upon the fur, and the embryo hat, upon which a cloth has been spread for its protection, is removed by hand. The whole operation takes but two or three minutes. It is then rolled and pressed, first by hand, when in its more delicate condition, and after- wards by machinery, to felt it and reduce it to its proper proportions. In the meantime it has been sized to add to its strength and durability. The hat now receives an application of shellac dissolved in alcohol to stiffen it. A much stronger solution is required for a ' ' derby " than for a soft hat. Thus far the hat has retained its conical form. The next process gives it a shape in which it is recognizable as a hat. It consists of press- ing it in a mold, composed of a block and a matrix, which shapes both the crown and the brim. The next step is that of dyeing, in which the rough hat receives its final color. Blocking comes next, which fixes the hat in the form desired, the previous pressing having only shaped it. Pouncing, which is a process of sand- papering to remove inequalities, follows, and is accom- plished by placing the hat on a rapidly revolving block, a device of Mr. John T. Waring, in 1853, and rubbing the surface with fine emery paper; at the same time any hairs that may have been left in the fur are removed or cut off and a slight nap is raised, which is ironed so that it all lies in one direction. The trimmings — that is, the sweat band, the lining and the ribbon and binding — are now attached, and the hat is again blocked and the rim given its shape. Formerly all of this work was done by hand, beginning with the process of "blowing," by which the same result was obtained that is now reached by the blower. The inventions of Thomas Blanchard, H. A. Wells, and John T. Waring, with minor modifi- cations and improvements, are the foundation of the machine manufacture of fur hats. The history of the fur hat manufacture has never been adequately presented. Special effort has been made at this time to prepare such a statement as the importance of the subject demands, but the only sources of information which have been found are Bishop's "History of American Manufactures," and the "Re- port on Manufactures for the Eighth Census." The industry in the United States dates back to the very early days of the colonies. In 1662 the assembly of Virginia enacted a number of laws for the encourage- ment of manufactures. Among other premiums offered was one of 10 pounds of tobacco for every good wool or fur hat made within the colony. In 1675 laws were passed prohibiting the exportation of raccoon furs from the provinces. In 1731 Jeremiah Dunbar, surveyor- general of His Majesty's woods, reported respecting the manufacture of hats; that it was with the greatest diffi- culty they were able to procure true information of the trade and manufactures of New England. The company of felt makers in London petitioned Parlia- ment in 1731 to prohibit the importation of hats from the American colonies. A special committee, to which the petition was referred, reported that in New York and New England beaver hats were manufactured to the estimated number of 10,000 yearly. There were 16 hatters in Boston, one of whom furnished 40 hats weekly. The British Board of Trade, in their report in 1732, made in pursuance of an inquiry "with respect to laws made, manufactures set up, or trade carried on detri- mental to the trade, navigation, or manufactures of Great Britain," found that "great quantities of hats are made in New England," and that "great quantities of these hats are exported to Spain, Portugal, and our West India Islands." In consequence of this evidence, an act was passed that "no hats or felts, dj'ed or un- dyed, finished or unfinished, should be put on board any vessel for anyplace within any of the British plantations, nor be laden upon any horse, or other carriage, to the in- tent to be exported from thence to any other plantation, or to any other place whatever." By the same law no person was allowed to make hats unless he had served an apprenticeship of seven years, and no negro was per- mitted to work at the business. In 1753, a prize of 40 shillings was offered in Delaware for the neatest and best hat manufactured in the lower counties. In 1767 there was a very considerable hat manufacture in Carolina, and a profitable expoi"t trade was carried on with the Spanish Islands. In Danbury, Conn. , Zadoc Benedict began hat making in 1780 with one journeyman and two appren- tices. He made three hats a day. In 1786 the hat manu- facture had become an extensive industry in Pennsyl- vania, where it was estimated that upward of 160,000 wool hats and over 54,000 fur hats were made annually. There were 68 hatters in Philadelphia and vicinity who made 31,627 fur hats and 7,000 wool hats yearly. There were in addition 247 hatters in other parts of the state. In 1791, 10,000 fur and wool hats were made yearly by 17 hatters in New London county, Conn. In 1810 the whole number of fur hats reported from 13 states and territories was 457,666; of these 45,369 were made in Pennsylvania. Massachusetts produced 142,645 fur hats, valued at $415,167. Maryland reported a pro- duction in 106 hat establishments, chiefly fur, to the value of $304,472, and New Jersey made, chiefly at Newark and vicinity, 31,524 fur hats, valued at $94,052. The Secretary of the Treasury reported to Congress in April, 1810, that hats were annually imported to the value of $350,000, and American made hats to the value of $100,000 were exported. In 1831 a convention of WOOL. Ill manufacturers estimated the production at $15,000,000 annually,' giving employment to 15,000 men and boys and 3,000 women. The census of 1840 shows the value of hats and caps manufactured in the United States to have been $8,704,342. Both of these last statements include hats and caps of all kinds. At the census of 1850, 1,048 establishments were re- ported, with a capital of $4,427,798, engaged in the manufacture of hats and caps. In 1860 there wera only 622 establishments, with a capital of $4,126,572. They consumed, with other materials, 3,039,700 pounds of wool and 1,658,520 pounds of fur, and manufactured, among other things, 2,449,672 fur hats, 2,462,974 felt or soft hats, and 6,191,482 wool hats. In the three following census reports the number of hats produced in the hat and cap factories was not given. WOOL SCOURING AND WOOL PULLING. The tendency of manufacturing industries to locate near the sources of suppty, which led to the building up of the little mills of a century ago in the heart of the wool-growing districts, together with the tendency to the specialization and subdivision of industries, is no- where more noticeable in the wool manufacture than in the establishment of wool-scouring establishments. In 1890 they were so few in number that the textile direc- tories did not report them, nor did the census reports on the wool manufacture of that year take cognizance of them. At the present time 25 wool-scouring estab- lishments, employing a capital of $1,061,123, are in operation. Their location is determined by prox- imity to either the producer or the consumer. Wool as it comes from the sheep is in an exceeding^ dirty condition and full of grease or suint. The processes of cleansing preparatory to working consist of open- ing, burring, •washing, scouring and dusting, and in these operations the wool, according to its condition, loses from 20 to 85 per cent in weight. The average loss in weight in domestic wools resulting from clean- sing is about 60 per cent. The cost of freight on this extraneous matter is an important consideration to the manufacturers, as on the above basis of shrinkage it adds one and one-half times to the cost of transporta- tion. The advantage, therefore, of scouring plants at a shipping center in a wool -growing district is apparent. Six such establishments are now located in New Mexico, Colorado, and Missouri. On the other hand a vast amount of wool must always come to market in its original condition, and as all transactions in wool are based upon the scoured pound, it is of advantage to the manufacturer and dealer to have scouring plants at hand where sample bags may be sent to be tested by an independent authority, who can, when required, handle lai'ge quantities expeditiously, and at the same time cleanse the wool more uniformly than might be done by a mill on its own premises. In Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Jersey 9 scouring plants have been established. There are 10 other plants, located 6 in California, 2 in Illinois, 1 in Oregon, and 1 in Pennsylvania. The Cali- fornia and Oregon plants might perhaps be classed with the first group, but in both of these states there is a well- established and growing manufacturing industry to which these plants may well be useful. The 2 in Illinois might perhaps be assigned to the second group, as Illi- nois has an important manufacturing interest. It has also a large wool-growing interest, and has, like Cali- fornia and Oregon, been placed in the third group, where both growth and manufacture of wool are influential. The report of the scouring mills, Table 21, shows that they operated upon 70,878,519 pounds of wool. The establishments which report their business for both the census year and the one preceding show a satisfactory growth of 9.8 per cent in value of products, which in this case represents the amount received for work done. Table 21.— WOOL SCOURING: SUMMARY FOE 1900. Number of establishments 25 Capital $1,061,123 Salaried officials, clerks, etc. , number 45 Salaries $72, 011 Wage-earners, average number 720 Total wages $338,606 Men, 16 years and over 646 Wages $316,924 Women, 16 years and over 74 Wages $21,682 Miscellaneous expenses $102, 039 Cost of materials used $193, 826 Amount received for work done $889, 809 Number of pounds of wool scoured 70, 878. 519 The industiy of wool pulling is closely connected with wool production and also with the wool manufacture. An attempt was made at the census of 1900 in connec- tion with the wool manufacturing inquiry to obtain these statistics. The result, however, has not been satisfactory, but the figures received are given in Table 22, not as a complete statement,, but as a foundation for future comparison. Table 22.— WOOL PULLING: SUMMARY FOR 1900. Number of establishments 34 Capital $944,715 Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number 35 Salaries $35,422 Wage-earners, average number 475 Total wages $247,950 Men, 16 years and over 475 Wages $247,950 Miscellaneous expenses $47, 395 Cost of materials used $53, 975 Amount received for work done $531, 287 Number of pounds of wool pulled 6, 111, 298 112 MANUFACTURES. The total quantity of pulled wool reported was 6,111,298 pounds produced in 34 establishments, to which should be added 13,182,146 pounds, reported in connection with several slaughterhouses. This makes a product of 19,293,444, but it is evidently much less than the actual product. The value reported is the amount received for, or the cost of pulling, rather than the value of the wool pulled. The accepted commer- cial estimate of the pulled-wool production of the year 1900 was 28,663,806 pounds 1 as pulled, equal to 17,198,283 pounds of clean wool. The chief statistician for agriculture estimates the production of pulled wool in the census year at 33,000,000 pounds on the skin. 1 Bulletin of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, Vol. XXX, page 350. SHODDY MANUFACTURE. Shoddy is the fiber recovered from woolen, worsted, or mixed rags known under the generic name of "shoddy," and is subdivided into shoddy, mungo, flocks, and wool extract. The first two of these are recovered by pow- erful machines known as "pickers" and "garnets." The picker tears or picks the rags to pieces and grad- ually reduces the material to its original fiber, while the garnet opens and prepares it for carding. Flocks are produced generally from bits or pieces of all-wool rags which are cut very short into a sort of powder by passing between the blades of a machine called a flock cutter. They are also resultants of the gigging and shearing processes of the cloth manufacture. Flocks are used mostly to add weight and substance to woolen cloths, on the surface of which they are spread during the process of fulling, which incorporates them into the fiber by felting. They are also used to produce a woolly face on waterproof garments and for saddlery, etc. Wool extract is produced from rags of mixed fiber by a process of carbonization which destroys all vege- table material and leaves only the wool, which is then reduced to fiber by mechanical operations. Besides the shoddy made by the shoddy mills, a large amount is made in woolen mills from rags and clippings for use in the same establishments. Shoddy is used principally in the wool manufacture in the production of low-grade satinets and other heavy cotton-warp goods; the poorer qualities are used in backings for overcoatings and cloakings and to give weight and substance to various kinds of woolen goods. It is also used to some extent in the produc- tion of merino yarns for the hosiery manufacture. The duty on foreign rags and other shoddy materials has generally been placed so high as to practically prevent their importation, and the American manufacturer of shoddy is confined to the home supply. The following table contains a comparative statement of the principal statistics of the shoddy manufacture, by decades, since 1860: Table 23.— SHODDY: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1860 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 PER CENT OP INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1390 1870 to 1880 1860 to 1870 Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 36 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 105 85,272,929 139 $166,704 1,926 $748, 948 1,425 8620, 444 480 $124,004 21 $4,500 $293, 149 $4, 875, 192 $6, 730, 974 94 $3,754,063 U44 i $149, 483 2,155 $707. 1 8534 $168. $238, $6,003, $7, 887 73 $1,165,100 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 1,282 8400,326 695 ( 3 ) 496 ( 3 ) 91 ( 3 ) ( 4 ) $3, 366, 650 $4,989,615 56 $815, 950 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 632 $198, 372 419 ( 3 ) 171 ( 3 ) 42 ( 3 ) ( 4 ) $1,098,603 $1,768,592 11. 40. 2 3. 11. no. 5. 13. 16. = 44. 2 26. = 44. 4. 23. 2 18. =14. 30.4 42.8 86.7 560.7 68.1 76.6 S0.1 102.8 101.8 65.9 117.9 266.5 197.2 268.2 190.1 'ii6."7' 78.3 58.1 206.4 182.1 382.0 339.3 ■■Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 39.) 2 Decrease. 3 Not reported separately. *Not reported. It appears that the number of mills has increased 11.7 per cent during the decade, the capital 40.5 per cent, and miscellaneous expenses 23.1 per cent. The value of products has decreased 14.7 per cent, and the cost of materials used, 18.8 per cent. The number of wage-earners decreased 10.6 per cent, but the amount paid in wages increased 5.9 per cent. There was an increase in the number of men employed, and a larger relative increase in their earnings. The numbers of women and children employed have been reduced in about equal ratio, 44.5 and 44.7 per cent. The indus- try was carried on in 105 establishments, employing $5,272,929 capital and producing goods to the value of $6,730,974. While the industry was carried on in 19 states, it was located principally as shown in the following state- WOOL. 113 ment, the states being arranged in order of value of products: United States Ohio Pennsylvania Massachusetts Connecticut Rhode Island Num- ber. Capital. 83,862,174 Value of products. 84, 969, 163 1,478,712 1,448,886 988,189 537,733 515, 643 These 5 states embraced 73.3 per cent of the number of establishments, employed 73.2 per cent of the capital, and produced 73.8 per cent of the total value of pro- ducts. Of these states, Ohio reports the greatest value of products and of capital, and the smallest number of establishments. This is accounted for by the fact that the largest shoddy manufactory in the United States was located there. The products of Pennsylvania were nearly equal to those of Ohio, but the capital was only two-thirds as great and the number of establishments more than four times the number reported in Ohio. Massachusetts had 3 more establishments than Pennsyl- vania, with products of less than two-thirds the value. Connecticut and Rhode Island together were not quite equal in capital employed to Massachusetts, which they slightly exceeded in value of products. Table 24 is a comparative summary for the shoddy manufacture, by states, 1880, 1890 and 1900. Table 24.— SHODDY: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY BY STATES, 1880 TO 1900. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OF- FICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Miscel- laneous expenses. Cost of materials used. STATES. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Value of products. Num- ber. Salaries. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. United States . 1900 1890 1880 106 94 73 85,272,929 3,754,063 1, 165, 100 139 U44 ( 2 ) 8166, 704 U49.483 1,926 2,155 1,282 8748, 948 707,099 400, 326 1,425 1,252 695 8620,444 534, 250 ( 2 ) 480 865 496 $124,004 168,549 ( 2 ) 21 38 91 84,500 4,300 C 2 ) 8293, 149 -238,094 ( 3 ) 84, 875, 192 6,003,035 3, 366, 650 86,730,974 7,887,000 4, 989, 615 <1900 »1890 H880 1900 1890 1880 <1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 M900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 *1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 3 10,225 8 3,940 8 3,940 586 9,156 17, 678 Connecticut 7 7 8 494,074 395, 336 86,000 8 14 8,191 13,271 118 166 139 44,163 72,545 35,345 101 142 93 40,461 66,185 7 16 38 1,402 4,600 10 8 8 2,300 1,760 33,601 26,099 362, 438 442,852 261, 200 537,733 648,060 347,500 3 2 29 29 30 110, 037 22,000 769, 294 902,850 460,500 4 6,500 110 31 307 406 471 29,754 12,300 127, 715 152,613 173,439 37 16 260 300 334 19,228 73 12 44 106 105 • 10, 526 11, 610 103, 722 74,500 685, 123 1, 170, 868 1, 308, 715 182, 110 3 3 100,000 30 29 34,336 28,135 114,492 121,984 12, 794 30,629 429 50,927 62,687 988,189 1,614,459 32 2,305,985 New Hampshire. . . 3 3 4 4 1 6 3 1 26 18 11 9 10 6 3 23,000 17,300 538, 936 193,225 35,000 1,397,746 744, 530 250,000 972, 070 640, 382 186,000 228, 930 194,250 49,600 245, 982 1 1,033 24 23 156 117 30 474 684 246 368 302 143 131 • 132 83 93 10,650 5,700 56,027 35, 605 25,000 164, 579 162, 600 40,000 148, 240 116,459 47, 441 56,397 51,516 18, 590 45,345 24 13 128 64 10 229 179 30 285 21? 90 127 129 51 67 10,-650 1,795 86,816 38,900 526,492 301, 113 80,734 1,077,529 1,100,480 575,000 1,069,944 1,205,258 510, 977 399,126 1,165,235 137,054 268, 712 111,848 8 28 49 5 245 485 216 80 91 40 4 3 26 26 2 49,600 New Jersey 15 10 30,100 8,150 49,445 26,480 6,582 -8,225 25,798 20, 150 685,048 4 15 900 389, 640 137,500 Ohio 35 12 55,225 20, 100 102, 736 80,260 61,843 81,340 69,259 28,266 1,478,712 20 1,000 1,377,500 700,000 Pennsylvania 34 37 24,746 34,716 126, 604 92, 183 21, 064 24,276 3 572 57,728 60,305 1,448,886 1,633,770 13 655,895 3 14 3,400 16,498 55,096 50,580 1,301 936 23,828 22, 278 515, 643 1,350,792 6 195,045 1 1,000 38, 142 7,203 7,609 382,852 2 9 12 7 9 5 2 15,000 329,861 482, 520 32, 700 285,811 67, 933 11,000 15 167 173 78 104 41 23 3,896 65, 739 60, 061 33, 610 36, 803 15,296 5,005 6 137 140 43 83 26 9 9 28 27 32 18 15 5 37,000 310, 783 343, 012 321,220 165,889 83, 679 21,350 56,000 7 19 6,130 17,300 58, 695 54,654 6,781 4,767 2 6 3 3 263 640 18, 122 11,640 443, 529 471,478 407,590 All other states 6 . . 6 4 3,576 3,780 30,833 12, 046 5,034 3,250 936 6,591 3,264 232,704 107,343 9 34,500 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported.in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 39,) * Not reported separately. ■ Not reported. 'Included in " all other states." ' No establishments reported. , ,., . "Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Georgia, 1; Illinois, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Wisconsin, 1. 1890— California, 1; Maine, 2; Vermont, 1; Wisconsin, 1. 1880— Maine, 1; Maryland, 1. MON- -TEXT- 114 MANUFACTURES. The production of the shoddy mills in 1900 includes the wool extract, noils, and various wastes with the quantity of shoddy, and together amount to 48,018,427 pounds, valued at 16,329,626. In 1890 the similar products of the shoddy mills aggregated 45,055,452 pounds, with a value of $7,333,465. The quantity in 1900 had increased 6.6 per cent, but the value showed a decrease of 13.7 per cent. The decrease in the in- dustry, therefore, is apparent rather than real, being not in the quantity produced, but in its value, owing to reduced prices. HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS. In preceding census reports the statistics of the man- ufacture of hosiery and knit goods were included with those of the wool manufacture. At the census of 1890 these statistics were also made the subject of a separate tabulation, because it was found that while in its early history wool was almost the only material used, in later years other fibers were becoming continually more prominent in the manufacture, and that the time was at hand when the predominance of these would cause it to be more closely allied to some other branch of the textile industry. The statistics for 1900 are presented separately in the general tables. The progress of the industry is shown in the follow- ing comparative summary of its principal statistics for each census, beginning with that of 1850: Table 25 — HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1850 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. 1900 1890 1880 1860 1850 PER CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1890 1870 to 1880 1860 to 1870 I860 to 1860 Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 881 $3 $24 98. $14 $1. $6. $51, 921 860, 604 2,809 124, 798 83, 387 358, 627 21,164 890,728 53, 565 243, 808 8,668 224, 091 599, 865 071, 859 482, 566 796 $50,607,738 1 1, 621 1 $1, 685, 153 59, 588 $16, 578, 119 14,846 $6,041,200 40,826 $10,006,070 3,916 $530,849 $3, 627, 245 $35,861,585 $67,241,013 359 $15,579,591 810,931 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) 28,885 1 $6,701,475 $4,429 7,517 4 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) 17, 707 7 ( 2 ) e> 3,661 2 248 ,260 ,788 1,085 ,252 ,991 :,545 $15, 210, 951 $29,167,227 $18,411,564 197 $4,035,510 9,103 $1,661,972 2,780 < 2 J ^ $3,202,317 $7,280,606 85 $544,735 m ( 2 ) 2,325 $360, 336 835 ( 2 ) 1,490 Q $416, 113 $1, 028, 102 15.7 61.8 73.3 85.4 39.9 46.9 42.5 47.2 31.2 42.4 121.3 130.6 82.0 42.4 42.0 121.7 •224.8 44.8 42.5 25.9 170.9 106.3 147.4 97.5 95.3 51.3 76.8 62.5 166.5 52.9 130.6 "7."6' 121.6 26.4 43.9 135.8 130.5 54.6 58.4 207.1 152.9 131.8 640.8 291.5 361.2 232.9 671.4 608.2 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; dumber only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. 2 Not reported separately. 8 Not reported. [See Table 41.] In 1850 there were only 85 establishments reported. They had a capital of $554,735, and produced goods to the value of $1,028,102. They employed 2,325 wage- earners, of whom 835 were men and 1,490 women; the children were not separately reported. The wage-earn- ers received $360,336 in wages, and the cost of materi- als used was $415,113. These are all the statistics that were given in the census report for that year. The growth of the industry from these small beginnings to its condition in 1900 is almost marvelous. In fifty years the 85 establishments have increased to 921. The $1,028,102 shown as the value of products in 1850, in- creased to $95,482,566 in 1900; the capital had increased 150 times, amounting to $81,860,604. The wage-earners numbered 83,387, 21,154 of whom were men, 53,565 women, and 8,668 children. Their wages amounted to $24 358,627, 24 times the total value of the product in 1850. The cost of materials used has not increased in the same proportion as has the capital, but in 1900 it was $51,071,859, which is over 120 times the value of the materials used in 1850. The growth in value of product during the fifty years has been in the following proportions: From 1850 to 1860, 7 times. From 1860 to 1870, 2£ times. From 1870 to 1880, 1£ times. From 1880 to 1890, 2£ times. From 1890 to 1900, 1£ times the product of the earlier year. ESTABLISHMENTS. Of the 921 establishments reported, 588 were in the Middle states and 133 in the New England states. In point of numbers Pennsylvania was first, with 319; WOOL. 115 New York second, with 242; Massachusetts had only 54; Connecticut, 25; New Hampshire, 22; New Jersey, 16; Rhode Island, 15; Vermont, 14; Delaware, 7; Mary- land, 4; and Maine, 3. CAPITAL. The capital employed in 1850 amounted to only $544,735. It 1860 it had increased to $4,035,510. In 1900 it was more than 20 times the amount employed in 1860, being $81,860,604, and 150 times the amount em- ployed in 1850. The Middle states naturally showed the largest amount of capital, the total being $48,531,122, of which New York had $30,203,640 and Pennsyl- vania $15,743,981. In New England the total capital employed was $19,014,126, or only about $3,300,000 more than in the state of Pennsylvania. The capital employed in Massachusetts was $6,288,672. Connecticut had $6,149,338; New Hampshire, $2,525,- 286; Rhode Island, $2,452,044. Neither of the other states in these groups employed a capital amounting to $2,000,000. The following statement shows the statistics of capital for 1890 and 1900: CAPITAL. Per cent of 1900 1890 increase. $81,860,604 $50,607,738 61.8 36, 960, 919 23, 574, 761 56.8 3, 367, 762 9, 556, 726 24, 036, 431 44,899,685 2,271,466 6,194,088 15, 109, 207 27,032,977 48.3 54.3 ufachinery, tools, and implements... Cash on hand, unsettled ledgeraccounts, ■59.1 66.1 MACHINERY. The first report of machinery of this industry was made at the census of 1870, at which time there were 519 sets of cards, 5,625 knitting machines, 1,668 sewing machines, 438 looms, and 148,385 spindles. In 1900 the industry employed 1,161 sets of woolen cards, distrib- uted according to the following statement, which shows not only the number of sets of cards in each state but also the width of the cards reported. The horsepower increased in the decade 20,149, or 58.6 per cent. The actual increase was next in rank to that of the worsted manufacture. Table 26.— DUMBER AND WIDTH OF CARDS, BY STATES: 1900. Actual num- ber of sets in each state. Number reporting width. NUMBEE OF CAKDS OP EACH WIDTH BEPOETED. STATES. 30 inches. 32 inches. 40 inches. 42 inches. • 44 inches. 48 inches. 60 inches. 64 inches. 1,161 1,161 3 4 432 15 7 569 110 21 134 7 27 1 39 3 28 74 26 674 5 10 31 10 40 34 2 16 134 7 27 1 39 3 28 74 26 674 5 10 31 10 40 34 2 16 4 47 81 1 21 2 6 1 5 1 6 30 3 18 28 26 264 5 9 12 10 26 30 3 5 46 5 3 308 14 7 67 21 1 19 11 3 4 2 8 2 1 5 The industry employed also 15 * combing machines and 521,871 spindles— of which 290,366 were woolen, 14,064 worsted, and 205,742 cotton spinning spindles and 3,613 woolen, 7,130 worsted, and 956 cotton doub- ling spindles — 133 looms, 89,047 knitting machines of all kinds, and 24,535 sewing machines. The 15 comb- ing machines were in New England, 9 being in Con- necticut, 3 in Rhode Island, and 3 in Massachusetts. Of the cards, 297 were in New England, 678 in the Mid- 1 See Table 42. die states, 44 in the Southern, and 91 in the West- ern states. New York reported the largest number of cards, 674; Connecticut was next with 134; New Hamp- shire had 74; Vermont, 40; Massachusetts, 39; Virginia, 34; Pennsylvania, 31; Michigan, 28; Indiana, 27; New Jersey, 26; and Wisconsin 16. None of the other states reported more than 12 sets, and some did not report any. The following table shows the number of mills em- ploying sets of woolen cards according to number of sets in 1890 and 1900: 116 ' MANUFACTURES. Table 27.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: NUMBER OF MILLS ACCORDING TO SETS OF CARDS: 1890 AND 1900. GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Year. Number reporting sets of cards. 1 set. 2 sets. 3 sets. 4 sets. 5 sets. '6 sets. 7 sets. 8 sets. 9 sets. 10 to 15 sets. 15 to 20 sets. 20 sets and over. 1900 1890 182 188 9 17 22 25 14 26 23 26 17 13 24 20 11 19 17 8 11 7 28 21 4 3 2 3 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 42 59 105 108 10 2 25 19 2 8 1 3 1 5 6 4 9 11 11 2 1 5 4 2 7 8 15 4 6 14 16 1 3 5 12 7 1 5 6 12 13 5 1 2 4 5 7 14 7 5 8 3 3 1 8 6 7 6 19 15 4 3 1 1 1 2 4 4 4 4 1 1 2 2 SPINDLES. Of the total number of spindles in the United States in 1900, 233,253 were in New England, 108,938 in Massa- chusetts, 79,536 in Connecticut, 26,867 in New Hamp- shire, 11,076 in Vermont, and 6,836 in Rhode Island. In the Middle states there were 231,594 spindles. New York had 191,582; Pennsylvania, 31,604; New Jersey, 8,408; none were reported in Delaware and Maryland. In the Southern group 24,126 spindles were reported, half of which, 12,036, were in Virginia; South Carolina had 5,620, North Carolina 2,860, and the remaining 3,610 were distributed in various states. The Western group reported 32,898 spindles, of which 8,694 were in Wisconsin, 8,500 in* Indiana, 6,686 in Michigan, 3,920 in Ohio, 3,480 in Illinois, and 1,418 in Minnesota. The other Western states reported only 200 spindles in all. The total number of spindles in the United States en- gaged in this industry is as follows: COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF SPINDLES, 1890 AND 1900. WOOLEN. WORSTED. COTTON. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 Hosiery and knit goods 293, 979 312,756 21,194 6,767 206,698 69,830 The knitting machines were distributed as follows: 32,860 in New England, 40,407 in the Middle states, 5,519 in the Southern states, and 10,261 in the Western states. Of those in New England, New Hampshire had 23,174; Massachusetts, 5,003; Connecticut, 2,662; Rhode Island, 1,262; Vermont, 633; Maine, 126. In the Mid- dle states they were distributed thus: Pennsylvania, 26,120; New York, 11,666; New Jersey, 1,335; Dela- ware, 674; and Maryland, 612. The Southern states had a total of 5,519 machines, of which 1,354 were in North Carolina, 1,078 in Georgia, 993 in Virginia, 785 in South Carolina, 581 in Tennessee, 81 in Louisiana, and the rest were distributed in various states. In the Western group of states there were 10,261, of which Wisconsin had 2,832; Michigan, 2,828; Illlinois, 1,975; Ohio, 1,147; Indiana, 633, and Minnesota, 476. The remaining number were distributed in various states. A comparison of the number of knitting machines with the product produces some surprising results. Some of the states, for instance, possessing the larger number of machines, produced a comparatively small amount of goods, and other states, with a smaller num- ber of machines, were the great producers of hosiery and knit goods. This condition of affairs is accounted for by the fact that in the states possessing the greater number of machines there were a large number of small hand machines, capable of only a limited pro- duction, but in other states the machines were the large circular machines or cylinders, operated by power, and capable of an immense production. The following statement shows the idle capital and machinery of the industry: Statement.— IDLE CAPITAL AND MACHINERY, BY STATES: 1900. United States . New York North Carolina .. Ohio Pennsylvania All other states 1 . Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. ;:i; Total. 81,173,; 784, 050 84, 900 68,091 61, 843 174,919 Land. 8102,450 81,500 1,600 1,300 3,050 15,000 Buildings. Machinery, tools, and imple- ments. 8236, 900 160, 000 13,700 16,500 13, 700 33, 000 J544, 426 363, 300 45,000 30, 000 33,500 72, 626 Cash and sundries. $290, 027 179, 250 24,600 20, 291 11, 593 54, 293 MACHINERY. Sets of cards. 55 Spindles. 11, 464 304 "3 '280 Knitting machines. 1,173 412 149 ]04 147 361 ilDCludes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 1; Georgia, 1; Illinois, 1; Massachusetts, 2; Mississippi, 1; New Jersey, 2; South Carolina, 1; Wisconsin, 2. WOOL. 117 THE INDUSTRY BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Tables No. 41 and 42 show the condition and growth of the industry from the beginning of its statistical record in 1850 to the present time, not only in the whole country, but in each state and territory, and also in the several states grouped according to their geographical location. At the census of 1850 the products were reported without any indication of the localities in which the mills were situated. It was not until 1860 that the reports were so segregated as to show the location of the industry. At that time the total value of products was $7,280,606, of which $4,847,984 was produced in the Middle states and $2,374,242 in New England, leav- ing only $58,380 for the rest of the country. The value of products in these two groups of states was $7,222,226. The product of the various states in these geographical divisions was as follows, in order of value of production: Pennsylvania $2, 114, 315 New York 1,944,090 Connecticut 1, 383, 528 New Jersey 783, 456 New Hampshire 573, 794 Massachusetts 314, 120 Vermont 102, 800 Maryland ' 6, 123 In 1900 the value of the products in the Middle states was $60,473,407, and in New England $17,834,673, a a total of $78,308,080, or more than ten times the pro- duction of 1860, and equal to more than 82 per cent of the total value of these goods produced in the United States. The standing of these states by value of prod- ucts was as follows: New York $35,886,048 Pennsylvania 21, 896, 063 Massachusetts 6, 620, 257 Connecticut 4, 043, 977 Rhode Island 2, 713, 850 New Hampshire 2, 592, 829 Vermont 1, 834, 685 New Jersey , 1, 784, 148 Maryland 514, 093 Delaware 429, 055 Maine 29, 075 WESTERN STATES. The states grouped together as Western states, which include Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Wisconsin, Illinois, and all the remaining states west of the Mississippi River, excepting Arkansas, Louisiana, and Texas, pos- sessed 129 establishments, with a capital of $10,792,485. They employed 11,061 wage-earners, who received $2,885,045 in wages. Of these wage-earners, 2,535 are men, 7,400 women, and 1,126 children. The ma- terials used cost $6,248,504, and the goods produced 1 Maryland is in the tabulation grouped with the Middle states. were valued at $12,143,150. It is only in Ohio and Missouri that any of these establishments existed prior to 1860. At the census of 1860 Ohio reported 11 es- tablishments, with a capital of $10,900, and Missouri 2 establishments, with a capital of $11,000. The num- ber in Ohio has since grown to 24, with a capital of $1,067,937. In 1890 Missouri had 7 factories, with a capital of $33,247. These have since been reduced to 2 in number, and their statistics are not separately reported. Michigan, the knit-goods industry of which first appears in the census of 1880 with 11 establishments, was in 1900 the most important of the Western group, having 32 factories, with a capital of $2,135,916, em- ploying 2,509 wage-earners, consuming material to the value of $1,459,378, and producing goods valued at $2,791,257. Wisconsin was second, with 27 establish- ments, a capital of $2,558,299, and 2,722 wage-earners, earning $600,495. The cost of materials used was $1,176,146 and the value of products $2,486,813. Indi- ana, which stood sixth in number of establishments and first in capital, was third in value of products. This state had 7 factories, with a capital of $2,728,306, and employed 2,016 wage-earners, with wages amounting to $703,129. The materials used cost $1,200,483, from which goods to the value of $2,424,304 were produced. Illinois was next in rank, with 14 establishments, $1,530,990 capital, 1,805 wage-earners, $494,285 in wages paid, $1,261,242 expended for materials, and products valued at $2,145,429. Ohio had 24 establish- ments, with a capital of $1,067,937, wage-earners num- bering 1,413, and wages paid amounting to $354,369. The cost of materials was $807,673, and the products were valued at $1,576,285. None of the other states in this group reported products valued at over $500,000. SOUTHERN STATES. In this group of states the industry is of very recent origin. The census of 1860 showed 3 establishments in Kentucky, but none was reported after that until 1880, when 1 establishment was returned, with no state- ment as to its location. At the census of 1900 71 estab- lishments were reported, located as follows: Twenty- four in North Carolina, 16 in Georgia, 15 in Virginia, 6 in South Carolina, 4 in Tennessee, 2 in West Virginia, and 1 each in Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Texas. The capital employed in these states was $3,522,871, the number of wage-earners 6,137, the wages paid $1,115,356, the cost of materials $2,798,219, and the value of products $5,031,336. MATERIALS USED. The following comparative statement shows the quantity of materials used, both in 1890 and 1900, and indicates the growth in favor of knitted cotton garments: 118 MANUFACTURES. COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF QUANTITY AND COST OF MATERIALS USED, 1900-1890. CLASSES. 1900 1890 $51,071,859 17,953,907 $5,262,135 49,451,301 $3,561,592 631, 199 $44, 953 2, 621, 893 $1,257,587 5, 823, 215 $4,865,304 1,981,484 $642,535 131,820,068 $22,204,918 71,478 $53,588 268,247 $946,801 44,682 $57, 677 3,770,626 $488,792 5,276,454 $1,487,907 $10, 198, 070 $35,861,585 "Wool, foreign and domestic, in chased: condition pur- 21,639,393 $8,254,418 Raw cotton: 32,432,617 $3,712,215 Mohair: 139 $87 Woolen yarn not made in mill: 6, 386, 370 $3,791,497 Worsted yarn not made in mill: 4,146,035 $4,279,105 Merino yarn not made in mill: IH Cotton yarn not made in mill: 32,248,849 $7,588,973 linen yarn not made in mill: 301,695 $65, 335 Silk and spun-silk yarn not made m mill: 120,341 $600, 315 Yarn of jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber not made in mill: Shoddy, purchased and made: 4.735,144 $878, 948 Waste and wool noils: 5,503,286 $2,021,492 $4,669,200 DTE STUFFS, CHEMICALS, ETC. The cost of dyestuffs, chemicals, etc., used in 1900 and 1890 was as follows: 1 None reported. The quantity of wool used has decreased 3,685,486 pounds. The quantity of woolen yarn also has been reduced, butthe quantity of worsted yarn has increased. In 1890 no separate report of merino yarns used was made. In 1900 the use of 1,981,484 pounds was re- ported. The consumption of woolen, worsted, and merino yarns was nearly the same in quantity as the consumption of woolen and worsted yarns in 1890. The quantity of linen yarn has been reduced from 301,695 pounds to 71,478 pounds, and the quantity of raw-silk and spun-silk yarns has increased from 120,341 pounds in 1890 to 268,247 pounds. The use of shoddy has fallen off about 1,000,000 pounds, while the quan- tity of wool waste and noil's used has remained about the same. The use of cotton and cotton yarns has increased greatly, and in consequence the whole character of the industry has altered. In 1890, 32,432,617 pounds of cotton and 32,248,849 pounds of cotton yarn were used in this industry. In 1900 the demand for cotton goods had so increased that 44,451,301 pounds of raw cotton and 131,820,068 pounds of cotton yarn were necessary, which would require approximately 160,000,000 pounds of cotton for its production, making the total quantity of cotton used in this manufacture 209,000,000 pounds, costing $25,766,510, compared with 17,953,907 pounds of wool used, which cost $5, 262,135. Dyestuffs and chemicals, value. OIL. SOAP. YEARS. Gallons. Value. Pounds. Value. 1900 $1,023,161 564, 053 396,278 528,504 $91,315 135, 037 5,903,557 6,647,236 $204,485 1890 212,844 PRODUCTS. The gross value of products was $95,482,566, an in- crease of 42 per cent over 1890, when the value amounted to $67,241,013. The most important in value of these manufactures were the underwear, shirts and drawers of all kinds, valued at $45,157,549, or 37 per cent more than the value of similar goods made in 1890. In ad- dition to these was the value of union or combina- tion suits used for the same purposes, amounting to $3,691,847, which might properly be included with the total of shirts and drawers. The next in impor- tance were the hose and half hose, the value of which was $27,672,013. The above items cover all but $19,000,000 of the total value of products. The balance was divided among the less important items of manu- facture, the largest in value being gloves and mittens, with a value of $4,244,046, closely followed by cardigan jackets, etci, with a value of $3,498,837. The gross value of products of the hosiery and knit goods manu- facture was $95,482,566. The value of products twice reported 1 was $9,527,121, which being subtracted leaves $85,955,445, as the net value of the hosiery and knit goods productions. The following table contains a comparative summary of the quantity and value of products at the censuses of 1890 and 1900: Table 28.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: KIND, QUAN- TITY AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS, 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE. CLASSES. 1900 1890 Per cent of in- crease. Total $95, 482, 566 $67,241,013 Woolen, merino and cotton half hose: 13, 249, 558 $11, 030, 244 16, 641, 769 $16, 203, 372 15,818,893 $45, 157, 549 71, 038 $248,523 1,898,587 $4,244,046 7,078,505 $7, 434, 131 10, 062, 886 $11,728,075 6, 862, 157 $32,961,997 25, 072 $85, 401 896, 150 $1,935,080 87 2 Woolen, merino and cotton hose: 65.4 Merino, all-wool and cotton shirts and drawers: 37 Leggings and gaiters: " Gloves and mittens: 119.3 1 See page 97. WOOL. 119 Table 28 — HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: KIND, QUAN- TITY AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS, 1890 AND 1900, WITH PER OENT OF INCREASE— Continued. CLASSES. 1900 1S90 Per cent of in- crease. Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc.: 343,429 $1,002,392 694, 090 $3, 498, 837 157, 622 $328,720 284, 685 $951,052 10,406,440 $2,205,003 342, 497 $1,476,430 361, 478 $3,576,248 22, 990 $115,467 270,533 $759, 648 7, 596, 711 $1,088,558 0.3 !32.1 Cardigan jackets, etc.: 64.4 !2.2 Knit shawls: 685.6 184.7 Fancy goods, wristers, etc. : 5.2 25.2 Boot and shoe linings: •37.0 102.6 $84,869,738 $61,161,035 38.8 Jersey cloth: 4, 488, 911 $1,305,376 3,065,057 $2, 157, 692 46.5 '39.5 All-wool and union or merino yarns: 83,327 $40,387 61,202 $36,303 2,419,282 $422,100 385,863 $31,267 852,180 $472,703 17,000 $13, 642 500,000 $150,000 ' $38, 866 •90.2 191. 6 Worsted yarns: 201.2 166.1 Cotton yarn: 383.9 181.4 Wool rolls, noils, waste and all other partly manufactured products: U9.5 Total value of all partly manufac- $530,057 $675,211 J 21.5 $8,503,464 $273, 931 $3,184,960 $63, 125 167.0 340.9 1 Decrease. * Not reported. 3 "All other products" for 1900 includes combination suits valued at $3,691,847. No combination suits were exported in 1890. In addition to the above, knit goods, valued at $31,919 in 1900 and $84,134 in 1890, were made in woolen mills and reported with the products of the wool manufacture. This table, although it presents a comparison of the products of the two census years, does not show the trend toward increased production of cotton fabrics. Examination of the general tables for the hosiery and knit-goods industry in these two reports develops that the manufacture of woolen hosiery has fallen off in quantity over 41.3 per cent, and that woolen underwear, including combination suits, has not varied materially. The manufacture of merino hosiery has increased 72.3 per cent and merino underwear about 5.9 per cent. The manufacture of cotton hosiery and underwear has greatly increased. In 1890, 5,341,628 dozens half hose were made, 7,387,259 dozens of cotton hose, and 3,246,590 dozens shirts and drawers. At the census of 1900, reports were received of the production of 11,352,081 dozens cotton half hose, 15,028,173 dozens cotton hose, 12,058,431 dozens cotton shirts and drawers, and 824,632 dozens cotton combination suits. The relative value of the production of the wool, merino, and cotton goods of these kinds at the two cen- suses is as follows: 1900 1890 $9,188,701 16,471,880 50, 306, 145 $16,497,395 16,451,999 19,174,809 The table emphasizes the increased use of cotton in these fabrics, especially when the lower price of the fiber is considered in connection with the remarkable increase in the value of the product. In addition to the goods made of cotton or wool, a very considerable quantity of silk fabrics were made on knitting machines. The statistics for 1900 show the production of 12,572 dozens of silk or silk-mixed hosiery, valued at $186,413; 54,807 dozens shirts and drawers, valued at $518,045, and 12,728 dozens of combination suits, valued at $116,286. There were also manufac- tured a large quantity of silk gloves and mitts, but the census schedules did not provide for their being reported separately from similar goods made of other fibers. The expert special agent in charge of silk manufactures estimates the value of these goods to have been equal to $1,000,000. The total quantity of silk and spun-silk yarns used was 266,247 pounds, costing $946,801. CONCLUSION. The progress of the American wool manufacture and connected industries during the decade is shown by this investigation to have been very satisfactory. The manufacture shows an increase in value of prod- ucts of 9.88 per cent in 1900 as compared with 1890. The increase in value of products in the hosiery and knit goods manufacture was 42 per cent. It is to be regretted that there are no data with which a comparison of the wool manufacture of the United States and foreign countries can be made, either by value of products or materials consumed. The princi- pal information available is that contained in the annual wool reports of Messrs. Helmuth Schwartze & Co., of London, England, which contain very full statistics of the wool production of the United Kingdom, and its imports and exports of wool compiled from the Board of Trade returns. They also contain statements of the movement of wools from the British colonial posses- sions to the continent of Europe and to the United States; but so far as Europe is concerned, these state- ments are not sufficient for the desired purpose. It is only possible, therefore, to compare the consumption of wool in the United States with that in the United Kingdom. From the Helmuth Schwartze & Co. reports it appears that the quantity of wool retained for con- sumption in Great Britain in 1890 was 428,000,000 pounds, and in 1900, 502,000,000 pounds. The quan- tity left for consumption can not, however, be safely assumed to represent the quantity actually consumed. The statements, as made, simply give the difference 120 MANUFACTURES. between the sum of the home production plus the im- ports and the exports. The quantity on hand at the beginning of any period under consideration should be added, and what remains at the close deducted from the quantity "retained for consumption;" this will give what may be called the "takings" of wool for the period. But, as it is impossible to know what quantities are in the hands of manufacturers or dealers at any time, to as- certain as nearly as possible the actual consumption, an average of the takings for two periods of three years each in the United Kingdom, has been obtained. For the years 1898, 1899, and 1900 the average takings were 506,000,000 pounds; in 1888, 1889, and 1890 they were 426,000,000 pounds; these quantities may be considered as representing the quantity of wool, in condition pur- chased, consumed in the English wool manufactories in 1900 and in 1890. The increased consumption in 1900 over 1890 was 80,000,000 pounds, or 18.8 per cent. The consumption in the United States in 1890 was 351,158,020 pounds; in 1900, 412,323,410 pounds, an increase of 61,165,410 pounds, or 17.4 per cent. The ratio of increase in quantity of wool consumed was, therefore, very nearly the same in both countries. Together in 1900 they consumed nearly one-third of the world's annual wool product. Of this consumption the United States used 45 per cent and the United Kingdom 55 per cent. There is this important differ- ence, however, between the two: the wool manufac- tures of the United States are consumed almost entirely within its own borders, but many of those of the United Kingdom are exported. The manufactures of wool exported from the United Kingdom, in excess of the imports in 1900, amounted to £11,119,000, equal to $54,110,614. This sum includes the value of tops, yarns, and all other products of the wool manufacture and of hosiery and small wares. In addition to the wool consumed in the United King- dom, a large quantity of shoddy of all kinds is used for which no statistics are available. This is made from rags and pieces of home production supplemented by shoddy produced from imported rags. The imports of woolen rags into the United Kingdom for the three years 1898, 1899, and 1900 averaged 69,617,000 pounds. The annual consumption of shoddy in the United King- dom is estimated to be not less than 130,000,000 pounds. The productions of the American looms in general compare favorably with imported fabrics. The impor- tations consist principally of novelties and goods of high grade, requiring more time and labor for their fabrica- tion than the conditions of manufacturing in the United States permit at present. The machinery of the American wool manufacture is equal to any in the world and in some respects superior. American manufacturers are quick to adopt any mechan- ical device which will increase production or add to the perfection of their fabrics, and American ingenuity is always at work devising improvements to existing ma- chinery or inventing new and better machines. Some of the most important inventions in wool manufactur- ing machinery were made by Americans, of which a full statement is to be found in the report of wool manu • factures for 1890. 1 Since that date numerous improve- ments have been made, but nothing of so marked a character as to require special notice. The facilities for textile education in the United States are much greater now than in 1890. Then only one school existed, devoted exclusively to that purpose, the Philadelphia Textile School connected with the Pennsylvania Museum of Fine Arts. The School of Design connected with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology supplied in some degree a training similar to that obtained in foreign schools. Much attention has been directed during the decade to the subject of textile education, especially in Massachusetts, and in addition to the school named, that state now has large and well established textile schools at Lowell and New Bedford, supported partly by the state and mu- nicipalities and partly from private sources. In South Carolina there is a textile department in the South Car- olina Agricultural College at Clemson, and in North Carolina one in the Agricultural and Mechanical Insti- tute at Ealeigh. A school known as the French Textile School is connected with the Georgia Institute of Tech- nology at Atlanta, and there is a textile department in the Mississippi Mechanical College at Stark ville. Besides these there are evening schools for loom fixers and weavers at Lawrence and Fall River, Mass., and correspondence schools at various places in the United States. All are doing good work in training the textile workers for the higher branches of their profession. The results of this technical training are already mani- fest in the more artistic stjdes produced and in the economies of manufacture introduced by the graduates of these schools. In the text and annexed to it are numerous tabular statements together with tables numbered 1 to 28, inclu- sive, illustrative of the text. In addition to those in the text, the following tables are presented containing the statistics for all branches and subdivisions of the wool industry, and also for the shoddy, fur hat, and hosiery and knit goods manufactures. In the consid- eration of these tables reference should be made to the text of this report and to the other tables and state- ments included in it. Particular attention is invited to the fact that these comparative tables include the results of widely vary- ing methods of inquiry, so that a careful consideration of the explanatory footnotes is essential in order to avoid erroneous deductions. Table 29 comprises all the items of the inquiry com- mon to a number of periods, and the statistics are given 'Eleventh Census of the United States, 1890, Manufacturing Industries, Part III, page 68. WOOL. 121 for each decennial year from 1840 to 1900, both in- clusive. Table 30 exhibits a total for the United States, under each item of the schedule of inquiry for 1900, for each branch of the industry, viz, woolen mills, worsted mills, carpet mills, felt mills, and wool hat mills. The six tables following Table 30 correspond thereto in form and scope, but contain statistics for each of the different branches of the industry segregated in these tables and shown by totals for each state and for the United States. Their titles are as follows: Table 31— Woolen mills. Table 32— Worsted mills. Table 33— Carpet mills. Table 34— Felt mills. Table 35— Wool hat mills. Table 36 contains statistics of custom carding mills. Table 37 contains the statistics for wool scouring in 1900. Table 38 contains the statistics for wool pulling in 1900. Table 39 is a detailed presentation by totals for states and for the United States, showing the results of the inquiry relating to the shoddy manufacture. Table 40 is a detailed statement of the fur hat manu- facture in 1900, with the totals by states and for the United States. Table 41 is a comparative summary for hosiery and knit goods for each census year, beginning with 1850, and contains all the items of inquiry common to the decades. Table 42 exhibits a total for the United States under each item of the schedule of inquiry for 1900, for the hosiery and knit goods manufacture. 122 MANUFACTURES. Table 29.-W00L MANUFACTURE (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): COMPARATIVE STATES AND TERRITORIES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. 1 Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAQE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND WAGES. TOTAL Number. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Average number. Wages. 1 United States 1900 1890 1880 1870 &1860 61850 1840 1,414 1,693 2,330 3,208 1,476 1,675 1,420 8310, 179, 749 245,886,743 143,512,278 121,451,059 38, 814, 422 31,971,631 15, 765, 124 4,495 2 3,652 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) ( 3 ) ( s ( 3 ) J6, 455, 495 =4,057,695 (?) s 13 159,108 154,271 132, 672 105,071 50,419 45, 438 21,342 857,933,817 54,339,775 40, 687, 612 35, 928, 150 11, 699, 630 Pi 83, 371 78, 550 67, 942 53,400 29,852 26, 569 21,342 64,141 64,944 . 49, 107 39,150 20,567 18,879 ( 3 ) 11,596 10, 777 15,623 12, 521 ( a ) ( 8 ) ( 2 ) 2 3 4 5 6 7 R 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1860 1840 488 518 564 675 420 482 489 177,844,108 134, 627, 725 75, 522, 666 63,856,145 24, 700, 353 17, 667, 892 9,259,935 2,086 1,316 3,350,088 1,837,649 82, 472 77,747 67, 582 54,851 30, 130 22, 520 11,268 31, 230, 772 28, 190, 048 21,390,036 19,588,984 7, 032, 555 46,540 42,323 34,939 26,462 16, 993 11, 980 11,268 31,424 31,138 25,712 22, 605 13, 137 10,540 4,508 4,286 6,931 5,784 9 10 12 14 ; 15 lb 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 81900 1890 1880 »1870 1860 81850 1840 81 78 96 108 28 36 24 45 52 61 82 54 61 66 24 29 44 66 46 72 95 195 219 214 226 147 119 144 78 69 61 76 58 45 41 65 71 88 117 87 149 119 502 652 794 1,024 659 717 620 14, 512, 120 9,456,830 4,016,328 4,187,745 940,400 467, 600 316, 105 11,280,295 12,015,721 7,150,855 5, 626, 100 2, 647, 300 2,437,700 740, 345 3,202,151 3,304,382 2, 320, 161 2,330,900 1,746,300 886, 300 1,406,950 90, 128, 754 66,568,586 36,764,000 26, 722, 900 13, 005, 853 9, 089, 342 4, 179, 850 41, 307, 942 24,310,743 13,016,116 10, 467, 500 3, 169, 000 1,013,000 685, 350 17,412,846 18,971,463 12,255,206 14,521,000 3.191,500 3,773,950 1,931,335 110,361,026 86,140,259 53,834,368 37,194,990 10,472,728 8,351,908 5, 519, 175 225 126 281,761 136, 841 7,324 5,067 3,244 3,104 1,064 624 532 5,461 6,102 5,599 5,081 2, 655 2,127 893 1,557 1,541 2,084 1,895 2,073 1,393 1,450 42, 069 37,739 34, 717 28, 025 15,638 11,130 5,076 17,854 17, 541 12, 125 7,894 4,232 1,758 961 8,207 9,757 9,813 8,852 4,468 5,488 2,356 64,973 62, 345 54, 138 36, 322 16,121 13, 8U2 8,464 2, 762, 564 1,824,670 1,090,528 1,065,151 273,696 ■ 4,699 3,162 1,810 1,592 565 310 532 3,130 3,160 2,811 2,259 1,291 926 893 1,060 903 1,171 935 895 683 1,450 23,363 20, 636 17, 588 13,228 8,964 6,167 5,076 9,141 8,703 5,871 3,644 2,594 987 961 5,147 5,759 5,688 4,804 2,684 2,907 2,356 31,558 29, 582 26,797 18,182 9,928 8,549 8,464 2,425 1,755 1,140 1,287 499 314 200 150 294 225 19 ! 20 i 21 22 23 131 120 166, 074 161,908 2,045,316 2,190,657 1,701,619 1,788,894 687,746 2,201 2,758 2,284 2,328 1,364 1,201 130 184 504 494 25 ! 27 28 57 44 78,525 42, 475 603,963 582, 965 544, 138 649, 628 214, 572 470 601 783 759 1,178 710 27 37 130 201 30 31 32 33 34 35 1,048 624 1,710,094 926, 458 16,057,849 13,732,316 11, 027, 822 9, 809, 718 3, 658, 589 16,420 15, 391 14,060 11,961 6,674 4,963 2,286 1,712 3,069 2,836 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 61 52 53 54 55 56 67 58 59 CO 61 62 63 407 246 750, 494 333,073 6,721,040 6,228,686 3,703,257 2, 862, 492 1,069,728 7,230 7,111 4,387 3,184 1,638 771 1,483 1,727 1,867 1,066 218 156 363, 140 236, 894 3, 040, 040 3, 630, 754 3, 322, 672 3,413,101 1,128,324 2,678 3,522 3,058 3,086 1,784 2,581 382 476 1,067 962 1,7-17 1,412 2, 361, 313 1,527,627 23, 567, 092 22,401,695 16,682,073 12,619,089 3,717,095 27,456 27, 416 20, 144 13,028 6,193 5,233 5,959 5,347 7,197 5,112 864, 861 462, 984 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 18S0 100 138 189 272 168 249 323 43 35 37 32, 098, 305 26, 853, 583 18, 248, 698 14,451,232 4,133,568 4.459,370 3,469,349 18,924,6^7 6,441,5T1 2,991,125 597 357 18, 027 17, 336 16,428 12,487 6,123 6,674 4, 636 8,232 5,872 4,072 6, 610, 259 6, 133, 609 5, 189, 180 4, 315, 710 1,351,955- 8,553 7,814 7,405 6,199 3,475 4,262 4,636 3,877 2,867 2,287 8,330 8,213 6,931 4,583 2,648 2, 412 1,144 1,309 2,092 . 1, 705 210 99 376,460 133, 517 2, 574, 566 1,940,254 1, 152. 754 3,626 2,786 1,118 729 219 667 i The number of establishments affords no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of wool manufacturing. This is due to the fact that in all censuses of the industry (except that of 1860) the custom carding mill has been counted as a wool factory, although it is not, in the modern use of the term, a factory, and ought not therefore, to be included with the statistics of factory manufacture. The present census and that of 1890 have made such an elimination possible hereafter by a distinct statement of the statistics of custom carding mills. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries, number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. s Not reported separately. * Not reported. WOOL. SUMMARY, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1840 TO 1900. 123 MACHINERY. Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost oi ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS — QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Cards. Combing ma- chines. Looms. Spindles. Wool in condition purchased. Raw cot- ton, and cotton warp, and yarn, not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noils, not made in mill (pounds). Shoddy, not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Domestic (pounds). 6,605 7,015 6,989 8,705 3,319 m • ( 4 > 1,451 869 515 261 8 74,190 69,658 57,297 45,737 16,075 3,511,099 2,793,147 2,111,973 2, 046, 113 639,700 817,329,932 15,622,263 4 ) ( 4 ) $181,159,127 167,233,987 149,160,600 124,318,792 43,447,048 28,831,583 ( 4 ) 394, 369, 523 351,158,020 287,597,334 214,373,219 95,452,159 70, 862, 829 ( 4 > 136,434,961 111,382,308 72,751,940 46,288,805 ( 3 ) ( 3 ( 4 ) 257, 934, 562 239,775,712 214,845,394 168,084,414 ( 3 ) 98, 632, 496 94,372,267 63,830,664 26,420,626 17,218,061 ( 3 ) ( 4 ) 85, 111, 063 26,262,316 8,011,037 ( 3 ) I 3 } ( 3 ) 34,496,508 56, 826, 475 50, 640, 663 19, 384, 404 ( 3 ) i 4 l 8296,990,484 270, 527, 611 238, 085, 686 199,257,262 73,454,000 48, 608, 779 20,696,999 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 3,427 3,762 3,396 3,471 1,774 821 619 302 225 40,238 33,348 30,692 21,865 8,920 2,071,546 1,570,097 1,246,100 1, 206, 717 393, 333 8,475,253 9, 143, 764 99, 783, 297 86, 887, 689 80, 152, 160 68, 819, 733 29, 570, 028 16,055,233 224,826,710 195,867,736 163,763,773 123,791,815 67,702,407 43,118,059 62,874,851 58, 429, 807 43, 475, 554 30, 295, 579 161,951,859 137,437,929 120,288,219 93,496,236 39,135,944 30, 833, 876 26, 775, 273 11,479,564 11,883,078 8, 530, 697 9,366,220 2, 441, 485 24,485,828 35,721,895 28,653,694 10,917,494 161, 666, 277 139, 302, 134 130,014,752 108,295,425 47, 722, 814 26,077,812 12,959,486 8 9 10 11 1? 13 14 437 387 274 336 80 19 5 2,802 2,020 1,103 1,161 185 181, 621 126, 418 68,192 66,649 11, 765 860,447 593, 305 8, 142, 820 5,675,347 4,443,190 4,013,769 1,035,876 495, 940 20,240,598 13, 782, 749 9,074,011 7,721,228 2,454,300 1,438,434 3, 154, 524 1,744,381 1,085,606 382, 727 17,086,074 12,038,368 7,988,405 7,338,501 3,287,412 2, 639, 862 1,576,462 769, 363 82,500 2, 280, 861 1; 346, 818 402, 707 3,094,185 1,515,035 1,302,789 13,744,126 8,737,653 6,959,003 6,483,881 1,759,007 758, 300 412, 366 10, 381, 056 10,963,250 10,858,071 10,513,226 4,358,713 2,127,745 795, 784 2,822,646 2,723,683 3,217,807 3,644,459 2, 938, 626 1, 579, 161 1, 331, 953 81, 041, 537 67,599,321 64,968,209 52,270,608 24,015,443 12, 770, 565 7,082,898 39,042,660 32,205,829 21,588,204 15, 394, 067 6, 917, 705 2, 381, 825 842, 172 14, 534, 252 17,072,398 22,423,458 19, 989, 184 7,733,320 6, 465, 216 2, 494, 313 118, 258, 243 110,911,526 91, 136, 451 68,467,540 20, 386, 330 14, 065, 456 6,637,708 15 16 17 IS 19 90 ?1 335 380 817 360 204 34 29 21 12 5,312 4,049 2,884 1,695 696 146,292 136, 648 138,223 126, 079 36,320 455, 398 617, 052 6,636,567 7,024,461 6, 605, 355 6, 569, 028 2, 775, 026 1,267,329 16,218,609 18,696,016 15,172,837 11, 832, 666 5, 505, 106 3,604,103 1,581,498 4,854,212 2,379,575 1, 968, 869 14, 637, 111 13, 841, 804 12, 793, 262 9,863,797 6, 760, 375 4,308,465 2,871,944 1,670,994 861, 000 179,362 150, 056 50,362 4, 181, 362 3,424,970 3, 115, 390 1,380,000 22 23 94 95 9fi 97 98 124 120 145 177 99 775 682 746 670 463 39, 208 41,839 46, 264 49, 255 23, 371 131, 575 178,385 1, 732, 372 1,435,163 2,012,490 1,955,972 1, 662, 650 830,684 3,170,502 3,940,070 3, 603, 191 4,611,347 4, 047, 010 2, 328, 100 341, 902 1,279; 250 161, 404 1,120,680 2, 828, 600 2,660,820 3,441,787 3,490,667 570, 799 659,601 640,470 77,800 279,500 90,058 8,650 7,598 822,069 1,562,221 2,286,150 225, 967 9q 30 31 V 33 34 35 1, 594 1,785 1,622 1,433 873 424 265 190 172 19, 746 16,349 15,863 11, 662 4,237 952, 854 739, 952 588,941 067, 611 159, 651 4,019,232 4,584,917 49, 120, 181 42, 273, 379 40, 283, 171 33, 795, 994 15,367,378 8, 671, 671 118,682,087 97,757,379 84,929,798 63,499,752 39, 731, 072 22, 229, 952 42,686,492 34,930,030 28,011,595 20,189,746 76, 095, 595 62,827,349 56,918,203 43, 310, 006 17,382,063 15, 160, 584 13,704,566 5, 056, 357 5,871,370 3,767,134 6,770,990 1,751,208 9,808,403 21,608,371 13,017,085 5,994,110 36 37 38 38 40 41 4? 478 558 495 484 253 287 193 70 7 8,007 6,608 6,957 3,383 1,586 529, 219 340, 326 228, 262 215, 973 86,048 2, 153, 422 1,868,032 25,087,370 19,976,086 13,079,812 9, 826, 158 4,071,464 1, 463, 900 51, 727, 800 39, 973, 992 27, 141, 974 14, 421, 967 6,835,100 4, 103, 370 10, 710, 322 8, 929, 242 4, 469, 088 772,247 41,017,478 31, 044, 750 22,672,886 13,649,720 7, 709, 524 4, 095, 989 4,783,289 1,697,139 3, 056, 200 1,147,471 317, 184 166, 893 2,103,887 2,168,503 2, 027, 782 919, 000 43 44 46 47 48 -11 459 532 543 682 265 57 27 21 34 3,596 3,640 3,139 3,294 1,753 222, 352 184, 914 176,218 182, 150 76, 178 855,179 1, 302, 073 9, 063, 987 10, 503, 253 13,728,142 12,658,822 4, 657, 634 3, 325, 709 14, 787, 114 21, 717, 530 23, 841, 962 21, 704, 855 9, 129, 819 9, 414, 100 4, 500, 113 6, 692, 692 7,368,286 5, 861, 310 10,287,001 15, 024, 838 16,473,676 15, 843, 545 3, 425, 771 3, 969, 375 3, 198, 542 2,207,911 1, 732, 508 1,065,811 772, 522 62, 717 4, 475, 922 6,442,795 6, 903, 998 2, 398, 417 50 81 59 53 54 55 56 2,277 2,203 2,164 2,558 920 601 301 210 36 27,531 29,002 22, 206 18, 291 6,432 1,116,158 914, 990 638, 484 554, 247 210, 054 7,681,003 5,046,720 71, 116, 948 68, 103, 765 57, 908, 066 41,941,018 10,938,446 8,040,747 138, 554, 768 118, 634, 796 95,389,023 61, 166, 252 18, 910, 319 22,437,754 71, 646, 991 50, 706, 698 28, 976, 386 15, 834, 201 66, 907, 777 67, 928, 098 66,412,637 45, 332, 051 49, 940, 939 54,972,659 33,857,475 13,321,576 4, 943, 183 26,492,962 16,823,593 5,463,552 7, 877, 940 18, 913, 964 20,951,183 8, 457, 123 57 58 59 60 61 69 63 748 702 830 940 324' 116 84 80 1 6,269 5,025 3,870 3.860 1,686 274, 009 344,847 198, 420 166, 260 87,887 1,728,288 1,235,146 16, 364, 607 16, 759, 138 14, 478, 735 11, 676, 379 4, 311, 116 3, 838, 292 44, 239, 280 35, 305, 969 29, 987, 847 25,518,652 8,535,498 12, 538, 786 25, 546, 837 21, 345, 999 13, 495, 159 9, 305, 779 18,692,443 13,959,9711 16,492,6». 16,212,873 8, 356, 734 7, 781, 739 4, 434, 013 1, 186. 659 193. 683 2, 269, 538 2, 074, 631 1,394,947 648, 362 1, 617, 481 2, 166, 471 452, 990 30, 813, 339 28, 563, 569 25,078,747 19, 609, 021 7,498,077 7,030,604 3, 537, 337 13, 799, 284 8, 893, 237 5, 967, 893 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 207 202 161 128 29 9 3,576 1,533 1,285 176, 340 77,069 35,791 1, 052, 701 547,886 8,495,338 5,450,490 3, 858, 992 18,669,055 12, 524, 210 6, 990, 378 5, 646, 754 1,348,047 655, 001 13,022,301 11, 176, 163 6, 335, 377 2,919,438 2,625,882 1,559,502 91, 185 490,110 1, 107, 749 195, 983 2, 927, 640 2, 676, 856 71 72 73 6 Carding mills were not included in the report of the woolen industry of 1860, and are therefore not included in the figures for that year in the above table. There were 712 of these establishments, with a total capital of $1,080,985, employing 1,276 hands, who received 8286,267. They used 5,230,651 pounds of wool, and produced 6,091,196 pounds of wool rolls, valued at 82,403,513. " The details of the carpet industry were not given by states in 1850. The totals, however, have been added to the " total for the United States " in this table, the figures being as follows: Establishments, 116; capital, 83,852,981; number of employees, 6,186: cost of materials used, $3,075,592, and value of products, 85,401,234. 7 This item was not fully reported at the census of 1850. 'Includes reports from establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Delaware, 2. 1870 — District of Columbia, 1. 1850— District of Columbia, 1. 124 MANUFACTURES. Table 29.— WOOL MANUFACTURE (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): COMPARATIVE STATES AND TERRITORIES. Year. Num- ber oi estab- lish- ments.' Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF "WAGE-EARNERS AND WAGES. TOTAL Number. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Average number. Wages. 74 Middle states — Continued: 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850. 1840 21900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 31900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 41900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 36 45 41 31 353 467 548 672 407 380 235 $1, 524, 200 646, 200 494,274 314,650 57, 696, 913 52,021,256 31,898,226 20,615,413 5,211,510 3,005,064 1, 510, 546 1,522 986 898 427 37,550 38,473 32, 989 21,573 8,484 5,726 2,930 $493, 054 226, 788 709 608 411 427 18,412 18, 572 16, 688 10,831 5,488 3,490 2,930 552 378 487 261 75 76 77 78 900 940 91,067,315 814,378 J14,045,869 14,117,254 10, 162, 244 7,607,489 2, 016, 384 15, 220 16, 189 11,936 7,714 2,996 2,236 3,918 3,712 4,365 3,028 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 3 5 11 4 8 2 4 9 15 32 35 38 29 214 222 447 589 115 155 115 450,974 352, 559 384,500 117, 000 148,500 107,000 1,330,549 372, 875 343,760 215, 245 364,450 244,000 117, 630 7,591,498 7,894,776 2, 994, 517 3,327,952 1, 744, 100 747, 360 304, 650 9 12, 298 288 261 399 114 140 83 877 376 388 339 414 362 388 4,700 5,392 2,645 2,888 2,205 1,119 488 91,097 108, 504 115, 137 27,564 139 171 186 76 122 83 576 190 246 265 281 262 388 1,902 2,303 1,498 1,831 1,429 808 488 110 59 110 38 18 39 31 103 25 7 35,625 4,450 221, 215 119, 481 69,391 87,099 94,404 204 118 100 69 133 100 97 68 42 15 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 214 325 234, 875 226, 117 979,188 1,338,729 493,634 575,529 418,368 2,037 2,421 745 669 776 311 761 668 402 388 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 s 1860 61850 51840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 <1900 H890 1880 1870 1860 61860 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 28 35 48 68 45 121 41 34 30 55 74 783,527 845, 221 456, 750 435, 375 463, 600 392, 640 112, 350 721,218 336, 281 293, 170 236, 100 39 45 37, 667 22,995 362 399 365 278 494 668 222 414 253 353 316 103, 773 94,028 71, 720 58, 765 106, 692 214 249 251 190 381 478 222 249 138 226 207 127 119 95 56 113 190 21 31 19 32 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 16 34 17,440 11,512 113, 960 50,407 44, 161 59, 828 145 104 96 79 20 11 31 30 16 27 49 52 7 1 3 347,830 339,088 203, 100 237, 800 223,000 18, 000 9,800 17 25 9,065 10, 411 206 299 185 249 253 30 4 39,094 54,918 23, 195 39, 101 60,036 106 145 120 151 113 15 4 91 125 50 81 140 15 9 29 15 17 11 15 1 7,900 25, 900 50, 000 18 63 92 1,173 3,815 11,400 13 32 37 13 55 8 3 14 14 32 46 11 3 1 37 42 98 125 37 25 40 51 49 106 148 1 4 26 4,300 455, 114 298, 539 180, 733 936, 585 242, 600 68, 000 2,000 1,922,574 2, 705, 683 890, 750 700, 449 408, 500 249, 820 138,000 2, 399, 518 1, 393, 679 418, 664 373, 868 6,000 10, 900 25,600 6 561 162 142 563 383 78 10 868 1,904 823 683 437 318 200 1,632 927 402 428 10 17 45 6 284 64 72 251 167 40 10 184 804 353 454 360 256 200 557 359 249 342 8 15 45 13 17 16, 936 9,367 97, 159 23,034 25, 070 122, 138 63, 348 189 71 45 191 216 38 88 27 25 121 25 90 41,472 89, 478 190, 148 503, 827 166, 189 159, 373 103,284 454 922 253 137 87 62 230 178 217 92 148 149 64- 71 67,673 48, 620 294,116 191, 037 67, 063 62, 780 2,472 759 444 HI 61 2 2 316 124 42 25 i The number of establishments affords no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of wool manufacturing. This is due to the fact that in all censuses of the industry (except that of 1860) the custom carding mill has been counted as a wool factory, although it is not, in the modern use of the term, a factory, and ought not therefore to be included with the statistics of factory manufacture. The present census and that of 1890 have made such an elimination possible hereafter bv a distinct statement of the statistics of custom carding mills. <■ 2 Includes reports from establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Delaware, 2. 1870— District of Columbia, 1. 1850— District of Columbia, 1. WOOL. SUMMARY, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1840 TO 1900— Continued. 125 MACHINERY. Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS — QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Cards. Combing ma- chines. Looms. Spindles. Wool in condition purchased. Raw cot- ton, and cotton warp, and yarn, not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noils, not made in mill (pounds). Shoddy not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Domestic (pounds). 98 61 776 270 26,769 10, 361 81,618,753 596, 895 548,367 2, 856, 525 1,443,800 1,510,289 480, 347 2, 376, 178 407, 398 239,500 27,000 82,616,461 1,197,694 1,164,446 440, 710 71,878,503 72, 393, 182 58,886,250 45, 221, 795 10, 901, 767 5, 321, 866 2, 319, 061 74 75 76 77 1, 262 1,264 1,120 1,429 483 357 188 121 29 17, 265 22, 101 16, 789 13, 265 4,334 641,657 474, 618 393, 387 340, 114 108,326 84,833,661 3,221,842 45, 137, 649 45, 173, 677 38; 740, 330 28,010,301 5, 674, 197 3,282,718 73,162,801 69,387,219 56,751,365 31, 723, 147 7,703,249 7,560,379 40,453,005 27,877,283 14, 623, 020 6,014,170 32, 709, 796 41, 509, 936 42, 128, 345 25,708,977 37, 640, 684 44,218,488 27,771,271 11, 504, 634 4, 337, 000 24, 142, 239 14, 258, 852 2, 940, 522 6, 874, 350 14,232,953 15,463,878 7,879,203 78 79 SO 81 89 83 84 S5 16 13 30 8 229 126 227 76 7,306 4,306 8,756 1,000 27, 404 295, 606 448, 285 392, 614 75, 807 204,172 531,198 836,883 546, 187 140,000 393,000 35, 369 203, 206 12, 455 495, 829 633,677 633, 732 314,500 65,100 185, 000 100,000 95, 890 346, 778 96, 930 482, 022 665, 253 576, 067 153,035 251,000 104, 700 1,218,378 579, 516 538,308 441, 596 635, 757 295, 140 235,900 5,588,416 6,700,545 3,958,571 4,278,311 2, 840, 550 1, 293, 642 321, 357 86 20,084 87 88 89 90 91 47 30 30 • 61 44 179 114 136 160 66 15,828 11, 150 6,580 12,348 2,480 54,181 14, 442 667, 036 424, 855 381,724 241,224 280, 431 165, 568 1,938,908 886, 200 822, 550 521, 741 1,087,772 430, 300 1,938,908 786, 200 822,550 500, 291 637, 730 32,050 37,589 37, 885 73,000 58, 326 40,000 297, 200 1,000 9? 100, 000 93 250 94 ' 21,450 95 % 6 1»7 1''8 11 25 10 19, 455 22,238 60, 000 48, 950 55, 696 250, 000 48,950 55, 696 24, 075 34,459 80,000 199 9 350 1,300 700 130 131 13'' 1,000 491,001 173,245 239, 390 471, 523 464, 420 88,750 3,000 1,431,684 2, 721, 968 1, 264, 988 1, 312, 458 845, 226 318, 819 151,246 1,517,194 1,216,419 620, 724 696, 844 8,100 6,310 14,290 133 31 20 42 72 30 3 503 119 88 395 20 11,008 3,552 2,224 14,465 1,480 22,430 10, 887 280, 295 95, 999 165,065 268, 176 260,475 30, 392 272, 678 208, 992 366, 274 620,937 1, 008, 600 153,816 5,200 32,000 267, 478 176, 992 366, 274 620, 937 1,718,472 87, 815 134,418 165,000 142, 500 1,550 19,867 111,357 10,000 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 58 100 154 208 83 9 4 533 1,661 513 322 94 27,695 40, 346 14,110 10, 509 3,990 59, 894 184, 343 974, 417 1,631,860 852, 405 831,628 510, 902 205, 287 2,747,742 2, 828, 377 1, 688, 663 1,639,367 1, 452, 500 673, 900 393, 917 57, 037 2, 353, 825 2,771,340 1,688,663 1,639,367 1,437,569 2,892,500 667,444 275,250 170, 700 144, 124 785, 940 117, 151 141 149 143 144 145 146 147 99 80 98 177 1 1,239 925 167 80 38, 654 19, 938 6,860 3,614 500 86, 141 56, 263 874, 359 760, 036 423, 054 503, 737 5, 225 1,675 1, 523, 442 1,448,486 883, 338 1,030,153 10, 000 6,200 101,766 187, 626 1,421,676 1, 260, 861 883, 338 1,030,153 3, 189, 821 1, 462, 967 180, 416 101,449 487,089 197, 690 55,433 2,062 148 IN 150 151 15* 153 154 3 Maryland and the District of Columbia are classed in this table as Middle states for purposes of comparison. ■* Includes reports irom two establishments in South Carolina. 6 No establishments reported. included in "all other Southern slates." 126 MANUFACTURES. Table 29.-W00L MANUFACTURE (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): COMPARATIVE STAlta AND TERRITORIES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. 1 Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND WAGES. TOTAL Number. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Average number. Wages. 155 Southern states— Continued. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 = 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 = 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 21860 21850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 21850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 12 6 14 14 6 $153, 303 18,325 28,900 22, 375 140, 000 4 3 S3, 640 1,025 118 13 18 41 198 $17, 695 2,100 3,037 4,881 34, 116 25 8 13 38 95 90 5 5 1 103" 3 156 157 2 159 160 161 162 4 7 8 11 4 315, 700 1,553,455 331,500 195, 250 75,500 5 13 10, 166 11, 280 302 1,069 218 116 235 55, 192 294, 990 53, 100 28,800 22, 620 146 402 111 34 202 111 443 61 31 33 45 224 46 51 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 13 6 25 13 43, 525 27,435 85, 550 32,500 3 9 903 2,950 27 22 90 31 5,158 3,281 13, 226 6,870 14 7 62 29 11 12 21 2 3 7 2 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 1 3 4 1 20 2 1 12, 600 285, 663 371,270 97,500 97,250 60, 000 8,000 1 134 342 36 100 43 8 1 76 125 28 80 36 4 10 17 15,763 18,115 40, 674 120, 680 25,700 20,278 7,680 34 176 8 16 7 4 24 41 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 4 2 5,800 1 364 2 427 2 184 185 186 187 188 189 3 1 34, 500 75, 000 30 60 8,900 6,720 / 23 40 3 20 4 194 287 605 906 280 205 196 12, 156, 823 13, 264, 918 8, 877, 427 14, 897, 772 1, 727, 241 1,351,490 681,364 401 513 450, 939 391, 937 5,861 7,207 7,227 10, 172 1,873 1,811 1,122 1,788,246 2,020,697 1,697,463 2, 802, 135 481,812 2,684 3,261 3, 816 6,212 1,436 1,341 1,122 2,861 3,517 2,357 2,809 438 470 316 429 1,054 1,151 191 192 193 197 198 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 1840 1900 1890 1880 1870 21860 21850 21840 38 69 123 225 122 130 ISO 17 33 39 54 16 15 4 22 46 81 175 79 33 37 36 33 48 67 15 9 2,709,986 2, 479, 872 1,383,340 3, 066, 969 662, 000 870, 220 537, 985 920, 609 998, 087 558, 800 1,011,050 103, 950 94, 000 34, 120 2, 069, 232 2, 969, 356 2, 273, 705 3,821,913 464,341 171, 545 77, 954 2,414,652 2,496,377 1, 349, 954 1, 247, 389 100,600 31,225 84 106 94,805 85,224 1,234 1,325 1,432 2,329 753 1,201 935 512 536 347 667 126 129 37 1,165 2,039 1,741 2,469 533 246 103 1,066 1,018 847 802 105 25 383,848 363, 802 279, 614 574, 164 185, 268 408 581 773 1,351 567 903 936 323 284 203 408 77 78 37 495 810 846 1,450 436 189 103 477 454 426 519 74 25 797 590 445 710 186 298 29 154 214 268 200.' 204 205 29 44 27, 769 26,063 170, 568 156, 740 76,240 202,813 30, 672 189 221 114 208 49 51 31 - 30 51 211 212 72 108 77,443 87,829 341,472 522,039 462,681 726,113 150,276 624 1,117 587 711 97 57 46 112 308 308 215 216 217 218 219 67 69 88,890 63, 670 317,554 297, 169 214, 993 230, 706 27, 036 463 553 378 211 31 126 11 43 72 220 221 222 223 225 226 14 23 53 109 25 16 16 19 21 13 10 1,610,425 1,649,918 1,327,553 2, 962, 443 210, 100 154,500 26, 205 762, 825 563,771 190,500 246, 600 57 49 77, 623 40, 783 727 865 .1,042 1,736 166 178 34 300 316 229 146 222,457 272, 997 296, 225 635, 185 45, 180 398 433 527 1,040 132 124 34 160 169 106 77 294 405 365 468 34 54 35 27 150 228 227 228 229 239 231 232 233 20 25 23, 450 19,025 90,662 101,942 46,108 46, 592 119 146 73 60 21 1 50 9 234 235 236 237 [ :::::::::. r 238 i The nnmbpr of establishments affords no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of wool manufacturing. This is due to the fact that in all censuses i thn inrtiiatrv fexcent that oE 1860) the custom carding mill has been counted as a wool factory, although it is not, in the modern use of the term, a factory, and ht not therefore t" be included with the statistics of factory manufacture. The present census and that of 1890 have made such an elimination possibla hereafter by a distin'ct'stetement of the statistics of custom carding mills. WOOL. 127 SUMMARY BY STATES AND TERRITORIES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1840 TO 1900— Continued. MACHINERY. Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS— QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Cards. Combing ma- chines. Looms. Spindles. Wool in condition purchased. Eaw cot- ton, and .cotton warp, and ■ yarn, not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noils, not made in mill (pounds). Shoddy, . not made in mill (pounds). ITotal (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Domestic (pounds). 8 6 15 24 14 72 12 10 2 ■ 20 160 288 160 530 1,000 $15,193 419 $58, 197 10, 997 49, 361 57, 338 80, 790 129, 041 10,569 135, 366 196, 500 264,435 129,041 10, 569 135, 366 196, 500 176, 562 7,500 10,000 2,000 5,000 $94, 571 17,150 63,745 89, 998 191,474 155 20,000 156 157 158 159 160 161 26 31 15 17 13 130 376 121 30 21 8,916 9,196 3,734 344 1,000 17,817 18,054 103,308 508,039 211,646 79, 566 119, 849 244,434 1,565,824 494, 033 154, 790 270, 597 244, 434 1,566,824 ' 494, 033 154,790 ■ 83,060 416,000 205, 896 32, 700 75, 600 172, 908 924, 185 299, 605 147,323 158, 507 16? 36,000 163 164 165 166 167 168 16 7 29 17 40 24 41 1,000 735 1,360 398 752 28,598 28, 030 85, 972 55, 782 129, 637 67,500 189, 000 115, 330 129, 637 67, 500 189,000 115,330 14,000 5,550 30,600 42,401 38,360 127, 430 78,690 161 170 300 171 17? 173 174 129 196, 340 359,230 80,500 152,968 38,796 15,000 175 4 9 2 29 4 94 135 12 30 2,600 1,900 600 1,070 17,428 17,333 117, 327 188, 607 44, 435 86, 817 25, 980 10, 000 291,979 572, 400 175, 000 278, 045 81,900 30,000 291,979 572,400 176,000 278, 045 86,700 103,000 19, 260 1,000 176 177 178 179 18, 000 180 181 18? 183 2 2 50 278 1,064 2,600 2,600 1,000 2,433 184 185 13 4 100 4,000 19, 197 31, 300 50, 875 69,150 50,875 1,500 31, 295 45,200 186 187 188 189 463 574 807 1,701 383 14 15 3 2,813 3,133 2,786 3, 984 382 176,407 176,869 156,012 226,638 18, 989 722,046 814,072 5, 889, 712 7, 126, 149 7,087,326 10, 006, 478 1,226,844 909, 808 18, 996, 587 22,859,293 17,702,458 20,631,163 3,246,751 2, 858, 990 1,400,236 1, 743, 013 195, 000 167, 825 17,596,351 21,116,280 17, 507, 458 20, 473, 338 2, 145, 184 2, 956, 355 1, 508, 482 903,027 86,854 10, 762 80,500 958,484 943, 658 660, 989 5,225 9,992,370 11, 673, 341 10, 722, 024 16,607,375 2, 269, 306 1, 770, 635 778, 448 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 78 104 182 334 173 5 5 2 674 712 638 1,052 96 30,400 32,263 35,200 52, 789 5,827 242,007 136,050 1,681,166 1,398,892 1, 153, 929 2, 119, 869 482, 994 678,423 3, 262, 140 3,500,244 2, 695, 424 3,972,234 1,190,751 1, 657, 726 24,825 474, 764 165, 000 62, 200 3, 237, 315 3,025,480 2, 530, 424 3, 910, 034 647,347 357, 152 310, 824 175, 464 6,660 3,900 80,000 217, 940 199, 680 134,063 2,826,321 2,280,002 1, 779, 439 3,467,699 843, 516 1,111,027 685, 757 996, 836 988, 652 481, 517 1, 204, 868 139, 246 90,242 9,734 1, 658, 965 3,036,682 2, 729, 347 4, 329, 711 649, 771 205, 802 58,867 1,864,420 1, 844, 364 1, 480, 069 1,258,417 172, 720 87, 992 197 198 199 200 201 9(12 203 62 54 51 116 14 159 158 167 232 20 14, 707 13,559 10,688 15,650 1,000 49, 676 60,280 641,133 603, 374 356,614 659, 700 69, 010 43, 402 2, 360, 454 2,033,321 869, 025 1,391,889 163, 100 162,250 953, 981 408, 026 1,406,473 1,625,295 869, 025 1,391,889 58, 650 2,440 5,310 3,550 119,261 269,148 37, 163 204 205 206 207 208 ?09 210 92 135 160 346 112 919 1,006 814 1,180 177 46, 864 46, 690 36,886 57,083 8,266 112,428 235, 503 970, 562 1, 880, 515 1,823,390 2,684,315 352, 362 120, 486 3, 552, 301 6, 324, 884 4, 360, 456 5,029,618 940, 000 413,350 400, 000 632, 833 10, 000 80, 157 3, 152, 301 5, 692, 051 4, 350, 456 4,949,461 848,443 1,961,374 831, 776 513, 595 1,194 600 88,235 154, 303 345, 656 211 4 1 212 213 214 215 216 217 72 63 75 135 19 9 6 296 258 220 226 20 31, 744 24, 802 16,689 16, 445 1,000 128, 005 124,124 1, 168, 397 1,117,013 892, 793 688, 193 85,743 32, 630 4,523,001 3,125,572 2,066,188 1,642,637 265, 000 134, 200 18, 096 164, 090 4,604,905 2,961,482 2, 066, 188 1, 627, 169 163, 754 111, 323 50, 955 500 308,033 196, 274 35, 235 VI 8 6,262 500 219 220 15, 468 ??1 222 * 223 924 46 57 106 260 37 184 323 374 633 20 16, 156 18, 745 20, 992 36,888 1,000 80, 086 110, 159 550, 320 789, 310 1,332,798 1,701,323 112, 697 115, 367 1,439,452 2,566,621 3,003,740 3, 560, 829 327, 800 396, 964 1,439,452 2, 507, 621 3, 003, 740 3, 560, 829 66, 717 319, 179 114, 531 151,650 78,000 128, 244 67, 263 83,007 1,039,087 1,299,506 1,896,460 2, 849, 249 193, 388 206, 572 9,540 496,812 539,995 253, 378 219, 862 225 59,000 226 227 :"'K 229 23(1 231 38 37 21 19 143 125 59 39 9,524 7,510 3,852 2,664 36, 178 46, 211 272, 483 309, 378 155, 867 108, 540 1,285,311 1,358,290 557, 580 254, 85^ 3,334 1,281,977 1,358,290 537, 580 254, 857 3,525 8,475 4,000 18, 000 232 233 20,000 6,365 234 235 236 237 238 5 No establishments reported. 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900-1890— Louisiana, 1; South Carolina, 1. 1870— Louisiana, 2; Florida, 1. 1860— Louisiana, 1. 128 MANUFACTURES. Table 29. -WOOL MANUFACTURE (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): COMPARATIVE STATES AND TERRITORIES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. 1 Capital. SALARIED OFFICIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Number. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. Average number. Wages. 239 Western states— Continued. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 18b0 1840 31900 31890 1880 1870 U860 U850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 21860 21850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 21860 2 1850 21X40 3900 1890 51880 1870 1860 21850 «1840 12 14 34 8b 12 1 $494, 074 694, 600 553,500 1,440,484 82, 500 10,000 26 38 $16, 611 28,850 2b6 340 499 1,088 120 7 864, 596 104,390 117, 792 269,432 23,652 126 150 307 685 96 7 128 174 132 293 24 2 16- 60 110 240 241 242 243 244 245 246 25 35 98 156 11 1 9 490, 747 720, 616 726, 150 716, 524 103, 750 20,000 5,100 18 54 20, 928 25,288 237 4b6 689 718 70 25 13 63, 314 97,122 109,877 137,408 19,728 139 209 412 548 53 15 13 79 188 144 85 17 10 19 59 133 85 247 248 249 2b0 251 252 253 254 Utah 2bb 5 9 131, 925 96,000 124 91 25, 825 30, 682 66 56 40 24 18 11 256 257 258 259 260 6 9 11 15 454, 981 579, 209 382,000 223, 400 14 15 10,050 13, 505 194 259 277 106 69, 681 90,651 68,108 48,040 100 150 150 58 65 95 79 39 29 14 48 9 261 262 All other Western states 4 263 264 26b 266 267 5 4 229, 292 103, 112 14 5 13, 370 2,800 170 b3 64,093 13, 845 58 21 103 28 9 4 268 269 270 1 65,000 20 2,000 20 271 272 273 274 16 14 20 14 2 2,226,294 3,969,065 2,283,300 2, 174, 200 170, 000 47 86 58,280 74,365 1,102 1,580 1,080 838 90 368,520 388,606 424, 406 342, 413 49,800 687 1,081 892 713 67 363 452 149 39 23 52 47 39 86 275 276 277 278 2/9 280 281 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 2 1850 21840 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 21850 21840 11 6 10 9 1 1,175,820 1, 350, 685 566, 800 389, 200 70,000 29 44 32, 820 32, 775 672 358 216 179 30 208,695 142, 538 86, 088 112, 213 16,200 423 201 166 129 27 216 134 33 8 3 33 23 17 42 282 283 284 28b 286 287 988 5 8 9 5 1 1,050,474 2,618,480 l,676,b00 1,785,000 100, 000 18 42 25, 460 41,b90 430 1,222 835 659 60 159,825 246,068 334,318 230,200 33, 600 264 880 708 584 40 147 318 108 31 20 19 24 19 44 289 290 291 292 293 294 1 i The number of establishments affords no clew to the growth or condition of the industry of wool manufacturing This is due to the fact thnt in nil nensnses of the industry (except that of 1860) i the custom carding mill has been counted as a wool factory, although it is no °fn the modem use of the term a factor? and ought not therefore, to be included with the statistics of factoty manufacture. The present census and- that of 1890 have made such an ^elimination possible hereafter by a distinct statement of the statistics of custom carding mills. cimimuuu puasiuic 2 No establishments reported. WOOL. SUMMARY, BY STATES AND TERRITORIES ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1840 TO 1900!-Continued. 129 MACHINERY. Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MA iZRIALS— QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Cards. Combing ma- chines. Looms. Spindles. Wool in condition purchased. Raw cot- ton, and cotton warp, and yarn not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noils, not made in mill (pounds) . Shoddy, not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Domestic (pounds) . 26 112 158 9,552 in. 828 $16, 831 40,050 8175,426 505, 503 435, 747 998, 073 67, 293 3,500 773, 053 1,880,532 1,407,510 2,273,428 168, 700 14,500 773, 053 1, 880, 232 1,407,510 2,273,428 4,603 10, 610 18, 597 23,148 2,756 46, 000 865 1,226 $296, 500 695, 218 679, 904 1, 647, 606 127, 640 13, 000 800 348, 974 648,457 930, 961 1,256,213 143,026 56,000 13, 750 289 300 240 166 ' 11,025 374 | 31,462 20 ; 1,000 241 242 13 243 244 245 196 ' 7,762 261 | 12,984 193 12,622 183 10, 371 29 j 896 21,067 29,775 206, 579 311,881 681,711 849, 313 56, 745 16, 000 464, 946 1,052,229 1,811,635 1, 979, 671 191,400 80,000 464,946 1,048,229 1,811,635 1, 979, 671 279, 233 155, 395 115,227 25, 500 80,779 7,000 4,000 246 52 4,000 247 248 258 249 250 251 252 253 254 41 29 2,636 1,616 107,251 86, 105 364, 000 200, 000 364,000 200,000 23, 200 1,300 2,000 211, 525 153, 150 255 256 257 258 259 17 31 94 99 114 31 6,974 7,960 5,422 1,430 17, 354 27, 155 121, 828 163, 864 147,226 98,272 744, 469 800, 500 566, 900 276, 000 744, 469 800, 50C 566, 900 276, 000 64, 212 38, 632 31,697 8,320 1,761 222, 343 338, 534 279, 424 199, 600 260 261 1,000 2,62 263 264 265 266 6 5 36 33 2.724 1,528 18,414 4,765 101,818 45,419 591,460 217, 100 591,460 217, 100 8,700 250 3,000 242, 112 101, 931 267 268 269 1 5 240 12, 775 50,000 50, 000 4,000 21,000 270 271 272 273 65 91 83 67 10 317 387 298 275 45 23,119 24,650 23,388 8,200 780 162,584 255, 230 875, 300 1,116,418 1,277,025 835, 736 77,000 4,043,265 5,065,619 4,720,100 2,871,400 550,000 4, 043, 265 4, 920, 619 4,700,100 2,871,400 174, 819 213, 864 234, 026 100, 000 113, 798 58,111 95,150 1,800 1, 585, 178 1, 939, 965 2,253,888 1,608,611 235,000 274 145, 000 20, 000 27,5 25, 000 276 277 278 279 280 35 21 21 21 4 175 95 56 90 15 12, 187 6,052 4,248 4,320 280 74,323 86, 906 465,855 327, 502 227, 486 227, 595 27,000 1, 997, 954 1,366,148 985, 250 943, 400 150, 000 1,997,954 1,366,148 985, 250 943, 400 107, 384 106, 546 6,000 73,084 5,000 1,000 897,824 614, 932 549, 030 505, 857 85, 000 281 282 283 ■>84 •>85 •>8fi 987 30 70 60 46 6 142 292 230 185 30 10,932 18, 598 18, 740 3,880 500 78, 261 168, 324 409, 445 788, 916 997, 539 608, 141 50,000 2,045,311 3,699.471 3,574,850 1,928,000 400, 000 2, 045, 311 3,554,471 3, 554, 850 1,928,000 67, 435 107, 318 228, 026 100, 000 40, 714 53, 111 94,150 1,800 687, 354 1,325,033 1,634,858 1,102,754 150, 000 288 145, 000 20, 000 289 26,000 290 "91 •x/ff. 293 294 3 Included in "all other Western states." 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Colorado, 1: Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; North Dakota, 1; Wyoming, 1. 1890— Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; South Dakota, 2. 1870— New Mexico, 1. 6 Includes the report from an establishment in Washington. MON- -TEXT- 130 MANUFACTURES. Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900. ESTABLISHMENTS: COMMENCEMENT, NUMBER, AND CHARACTER OF ORGANIZATION. CAPITAL. • Total number. Indi- vidual. Firm and limited partner- ship. Incorpo- rated com- pany. Miscel- laneous. Total. Land. Buildings. Machinery, tools, and imple- ments. Cash and sundries. Total 1,414 528 429 456 1 $310, 179, 749 }17, 936, 483 $38, 074, 295 $69, 215, 841 $184, 953, 130 Worsted goods 186 1,035 133 36 24 43 426 48 7 4 60 298 49 7 15 83 311 35 22 5 132, 168, 110 124, 386, 262 44, 449, 299 7,125,276 2, 050, 802 6, 731, 982 7, 948, 126 2,641,774 606, 601 108,000 13, 279, 427 17, 760, 364 5, 717, 961 1, 115, 961 200,582 27,026,759 28, 703, 473 11,495,056 1,745,933 244, 620 85,129,942 Woolen goods 69, 974, 299 Carpets and rugs 1 24,594,508 3, 756, 781 1, 497, 600 Propri- etors and firm members. SALARIED EMPLOYEES. Total. Officers of corporations. General superintendents, managers, clerks, and salesmen. Total. Men. Women. Number. Salaries. Number. Salaries. Number. Salaries. Number. Salaries. Number. Salaries. Total 1,110 4,495 $6,455,495 606 $1, 669, 246 3,889 $4,886,249 3,539 $4, 715, 986 350 $170,263 127 822 111 13 37 1,369 2,246 687 136 W 2, 342, 218 2, 934, 048 881, 398 231,065 66. 766 117 402 52 28 7 440, 492 847, 208 173, 931 92, 110 is Kns 1,262 1,844 635 108 5" 1,901,726 2, 086, 840 707, 467 138, 955 51, 261 1,130 1,664 607 94 44 1, 837, 907 2,001,528 693, 532 133, 278 49, 741 122 180 28 14 6 . 63,819 . 85,312 13,935 5,677 1,620 WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS. Total. Greatest number em- ployed at any one time dur- ing the year. Least num ber employed at any one time during the year. Average number. Men, 16 years and over. Average number. Wages. Women, 16 years and over. Average number. Wages. Children, under 16 years. Average number. Wages. Total Worsted goods... Woolen goods . . . Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats 181, 719 139, 915 159, 108 $57,933,817 $36, 412, 872 64, 141 $19, 549, 423 11, 596 $1,971,622 81,511 64,036 30, 175 3,085 2,912 60, 489 49, 848 26, 734 2,335 1,509 68,893 67,008 28, 411 2,688 2,108 24, 757, 006 20, 092, 738 11,121,383 1, 024, 835 937, 865 40, 601 25, 695 13,860 1,957 1,358 16, 913, 731 11, 300, 071 6, 651, 180 820, 637 727, 253 24,535 25, 829 12,468 658 651 7, 218, 087 7, 831, 109 4, 113, 142 191,090 195, 995 3,757 5,584 2,083 73 625, 188 961,558 357,061 13, 108 1*,607 Total Worsted goods . . Woolen goods... Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats Total Worsted goods . . Woolen goods... Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats PERSONS EMPLOYED: WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS. Average number employed during each month. Men, 16 years and over. January. 81,027 24, 947 39, 214 13, 828 1,929 1,109 February. 81,110 24,292 39, 772 13, 915 1,931 1,200 March. 82, 900 24,876 40, 930 13, 865 1,976 1,253 April. 25, 299 41, 092 13, 428 1,912 1,333 May. 25,389 40, 361 13,783 1,921 1,309 June. 26,047 39, 532 13,837 1,898 1,388 July. 81,269 25, 161 38, 839 13, 923 1,901 1,445 August. September. 82,757 25, 616 39, 714 13, 916 2,003 1,508 84, 623 26, 022 40, 898 14,018 2,050 1,635 October. .,224 26,719 41,900 14, 048 2,011 1,546 November. 86, 610 26,728 42, 502 14, 100 1,975 1,305 December. 27,044 42,438 13,659 1,977 1,265 persons employed: wage-earners, including pieceworkers— continued. Average number employed during each month— Continued. Women, 16 years and over. January. 61,521 24, 100 24,001 12, 285 659 476 February. 62, 201 24, 578 23, 964 12, 521 640 498 24,947 24, 676 12, 498 665 528 April. 25, 322 24, 750 12, 082 634 563 May. 63, 741 25, 691 24, 491 12, 331 654 574 June. 25, 675 23, 934 12, 368 663 027 July. 62, 951 25, 493 23,503 12,497 672 August. 63, 699 25, 839 23, 792 12,561 646 861 September 64,893 26, 072 24,658 12, 604 662 October. 66, 614 26,882 25,454 12, 641 669 868 November. 67, 337 27, 596 25,720 12, 792 662 667 December. 66,905 27, 763 26,477 12,43ft 670 669 WOOL. 131 Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. Total WoiBted goods . . Woolen goods. .. Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats PERSONS EMPLOYED: WAGE-EARNERS, INCLUDING PIECEWORKERS— Continued. Average number employed during each month — Continued. Children, under 16 years. January. 11,031 5,323 3,664 1,991 February. 11,364 5,477 3,644 2,093 68 M March. 11,435 5,429 3,757 2,091 09 X'J April. 11,437 5,483 3,738 2,048 74 94 May. 11, 533 5,567 3,709 2,088 70 June. 2,083 76 96 July. 11,579 5,553 3,731 2,115 73 107 August. 11,619 5,577 3,732 2,113 70 127 September. 11,837 5,700 3,818 2,121 74 124 11, 814 5,721 3,840 2,063 73 117 5,829 3,922 2,079 82 87 12, 047 5,846 3,930 2,111 78 82 Total . Worsted goods Woolen goods Carpets and rugs . Felt goods Wool hats SKILLED OPERATIVES (AVERAGE NUMBER). Spinners. Men. 16 yeais and over, number. Women, 16 years and over, number 8,168 1,995 5,619 486 68 Children, under 16 years, number. 4,852 1,137 1,150 2,559 1,580 790 185 4 Weavers. Men, 16 years and over, num- ber. Women, 16 years and over, number. 24,258 7,426 10,881 5,836 116 I 22,567 6,194 11,812 4,443 118 Children, under 16 years, number. 62 103 34 Knit- ters. Men, 16 years and over, num- ber. Men, 16 years and over, number. Finishers. ,296 2,789 4,625 616 149 217 Women, 16 years and over, number. 6,938 2,932 2,793 1,018 95 100 Children, under 16 years, number. 78 ISO 80 MACHINERY. Sets Of woolen cards. 6,605 685 5,010 468 302 140 Combing machines. Total number. Of Amer- ican rnan- ufacture, 1,451 1,194 123 134 337 214 77 40 Of for- eign man- ufacture. 1,114 46 Total. Worsted goods Woolen goods Carpets and rugs . Felt goods Wool hats machinery — continued. Spindles. Total number. 1,371,026 1,906,581 209, 206 24, 286 Spinning. Woolen. 1,935,527 133,504 1,714,952 63, 836 23, 235 Worsted. 842.730 40, 914 97, 191 Cotton. 147, 524 91,152 50,276 6,096 Doubling. Woolen. 95, 501 16,522 74, 731 3,197 1,051 Worsted. 344,420 282, 914 24, 848 36, 658 Cotton. 4,204 860 2,228 Looms on woolen or worsted goods. Total number. 26, 372 34, 881 1,757 284 Broad (50 inches or over — reed space). On woolen goods. 22,364 2,240 19, 056 797 271 On worsted goods. 16,710 14, 699 1,994 17 Narrow (50 inches or over — reed space) . On woolen goods. 14, 220 950 12, 656 602 12 On worsted goods. 9,920 8,481 1,143 295 1 Hand. On wool- en or worsted goods. 2 32 46 machinery — continued. Looms on carpets and rugs. Total num- ber. Total Woolen goods . . . Carpets and rugs 10,! 142 10,754 Ingrain. <.i'.i 32 ,354 Broad ingrain. Hand. Venetian Power. Power. 246 so Tapestry Brussels. Power. 1,094 Tapes- try vel- vet. Power. 737 Body Brus- sels. 103 544 Power. 507 Axmin- ster. Power. Mo- quette. Wilton [ Tapes- rug, try rug Power. Smyrna rug. 955 955 1,358 132 MANUFACTURES. Table 30 — WOOL MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. machinery — continued. Formers for fur hats. Braiders. Knitting machines. Total number. Spring beard needle. Latch needle. Circular, ribbed. Circular, plain. Flat, plain Full fash- ioned, fiat ribbed. Circular, ribbed. Circular, plain. Circular, hosiery, automatic. Hand and other vari- ety, plain. Total 504 14, 958 157 4 110 7 5 11 16 2 Worsted goods 2,830 12, 128 500 157 4 110 7 5 11 16 2 Carpets and rugs Wool hats 4 MISCELLANEOUS EXPENSES. materials used. Total. Rent of works. Taxes, not including internal revenue. Rent of offices, interest, insurance, etc. Contract work. Aggregate cost. t Purchased in raw state. Wool. Total cost. Foreign in condition purchased. Pounds. Cost. Total 817, 329, 932 $845, 778 $1, 161, 596 813, 573, 336 81, 749, 222 8181,159,127 897, 171, 554 136, 434, 961 $28, 835, 967 6,767,611 7, 268, 634 2,751,879 356, 164 185, 644 286, 920 365, 171 162, 657 16, 140 14 890 380, 210 566, 452 178, 469 28, 391 8.074 5, 121, 974 5, 880, 517 2,096,532 311, 633 162.680 978, 507 456, 494 314, 221 77, 075, 222 71,011,956 27, 228, 719 3, 801, 028 2, 042, 202 46, 274, 155 38, 838, 138 8, 783, 166 2, 399, 926 876 1 69 57, 263, 393 22, 521, 954 51,761,523 4, 248, 880 639 211 15, 159, 048 4, 598, 624 8,077,420 ' Total Worsted goods . . Woolen goods . . . Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats materials used— continued. Purchased in raw state — Continued. Wool — Continued. Domestic in condition purchased. 257, 934, 562 861, 057, 383 122, 714, 543 127, 678, 662 109, 811 5, 357, 383 2, 074, 163 Cost. 29, 147, 093 29, 899, 065 26, 687 1,414,216 570, 322 Foreign and domes- tic, etc., scoured. Pounds. 238, 632, 452 103, 338, 616 89, 366, 903 37, 560, 231 6, 468, 097 1,898,605 Animal hair and fur. Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair. 2, 536, 296 8530, 225 1, 742, 573 238, 247 457,476 98,000 391,332 34, 337 71,256 33, 300 Mohair Pounds. 81,439,288 1,905,967 1,117,179 25, 000 Cost. 972, 207 459, 831 7,250 Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur. Pounds. 29, 085, 363 856, 898 19, 679, 181 5,707,281 2,721,521 121,482 Cost. $1,821,559 79, 960 1,090,796 471, 104 92, 503 87, 196 Cotton. Bales. 43,414,502 12, 079 80, 725 3,813 2,437 Pounds. 5, 276, 751 34, 967, 959 1, 943, 942 1,225,850 Cost. 83, 487, 132 524,515 2,755,485 129, 449 Total Worsted goods . . Woolen goods... Carpets and rugs Felt goods Wool hats materials used — continued. Purchased in partially manufactured form. Total cost. $62,219,766 23, 250, 097 21,250.276 15, 945, 010 892, 9 7 3 881,410 Materials not made in mill. Shoddy. Pounds. 1, 807, 827 31,228,940 744,233 712,373 3,135 Cost. $4, 195, 744 303, 644 , 767, 192 43, 556 80, 737 616 Wool waste and noils. Pounds. 1,885,867 13,473,154 2, 238, 946 2, 653, 590 862, 982 85, 034, 204 558, 494 3, 249, 982 301, 944 552, 992 370, 792 Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils. Pounds. 326, 496 65, 679 185, 909 Cost. 860, 933 12, 856 44, 450 3,627 Mohair noils. Pounds. 114, 762 113,562 1,200 $25, 749 25, 687 162 Tops. Pounds. 5, 865, 566 5, 260, 775 305, 333 200, 000 99,458 Cost. $3,022,974 2, 701, 582 163, 964 96,000 61, 428 WOOL. 133 Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. materials used — continued. Purchased in partially manufactured form— Continued. Yarns not made in mill. Woolen. Worsted. Merino. Cotton. Silk. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Total 38, 903, 178 $7, 705, 797 34, 377, 736 $23, 068, 988 3, 904, 515 $709, 894 55, 217, 994 89, 568, 864 70,073 8334, 001 2, 847, 091 3, 059, 771 32, 996, 316 1,402,189 1,272,954 5, 030, 654 18,896,863 6,214,076 9,218,267 48, 530 14, 704, 172 4,791,079 3,544,860 28,877 419, 434 3, 215, 245 237, 970 31, 866 147, 891 516, 636 38,994 6,373 13,420,590 21, 922, 136 19,823,561 51, 707 3,032,039 3, 782, 240 2,744,928 9,657 26, 418 34,007 9,634 14 144, 971 145,514 43,455 61 materials used— continued. Purchased in partially manufactured form — Continued. Yarns not made in mill — Continued. Shoddy made in the mill for use therein. Wool-hat bodies and hats in the rough. Fur-hat bodies and hats in the rough. All other materials Spun silk. Linen. Jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber. which are com- ponents of the products. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Dozs. Cost. Lbs. Cost. Cost. Total 250,270 8489, 537 8,415,275 81, 178, 414 39, 965, 180 $2, 633, 413 37, 000, 000 82,873,886 4,939 813,920 8,500 821, 982 81, 381, 466 47, 533 23, 957 178, 780 166, 672 72, 632 250, 233 1,314 7,845 8,388,211 17, 905 1,052 6,998 1,164,826 5,538 74,536 536,001 199,618 1,118,767 38, 846, 413 57,384 2,476,029 35, 626, 165 125,000 1, 248, 835 2, 817, 663 6,126 50,098 4,939 13, 920 8,500 21, 982 474, 100 materials used — continued. Cotton Soap. Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs. Chemicals and dye- stuffs. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. Mill sup- plies. All other materials. Freight. yarn made in mill for use therein. Pounds. Cost. Gallons. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Cost. Pounds. Total 36, 136, 593 81,379,886 3,501,582 81,039,679 $7, 983, 684 83, 652, 162 8206, 326 $1,406,856 $4, 323, 321 81, 775, 893 7,733,291 13, 486, 089 18,758,003 2, 696, 173 968,495 227,833 485, 397 742, 528 90,271 51, 760 9,930 488, 703 2,467,865 465, 731 77, 553 1,730 221,981 693, 228 103, 671 20, 232 567 2, 627, 140 3, 968, 020 1, 151, 726 128, 296 108, 502 1,226,938 1,795,286 469, 913 110, 355 49, 670 79, 338 102, 131 22,881 1,976 564,150 655, 338 138, 181 39, 446 9,741 1,818,608 1, 983, 130 366, 761 91, 629 63, 193 527, 418 983,881 157, 139 64,435 43, 020 3, 237, 131 2, 783, 739 1, 712, 421 PRODUCTS. All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted. Value. Wool cloths, etc. Worsted coatings, etc. Woolen overcoatings, etc. Worsted overcoatings, etc. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Total 8296,990,484 34,551,266 822, 860, 783 54,033,679 843,003,550 18, 732, 922 816, 135, 436 877, 133 8567,390 120,314,344 118, 430, 158 48, 192, 351 6,461,691 3,691,940 3, 582, 788 30,715,638 2, 508, 918 20, 136, 951 50, 204, 572 3, 829, 107 39, 552, 773 3, 450, 777 1, 718, 008 17,011,186 1,705,645 14, 426, 064 16,690 860, 443 7,778 559, 612 252,840 214,914 3,728 3,727 134 Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES. MANUFACTURES (EXCULDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. Total. Worsted goods . Woolen goods.. Felt goods products — continued. All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted— Continued. Wool dress goods, etc., and opera and similar flan- nels. Square yards. 3,820,974 30, 273, 238 3,480 Value. 812, 978, 546 1,598,459 11, 378, 030 2,057 Worsted dress goods, cash- meres, buntings, etc. Square yards. 57,712,' 54,480,569 3, 231, 517 $16, 316, 392 14, 994, 513 1,321,879 Carriage cloths, of all weights. Square yards. Value. 8696,999 696, 999 Fannels for underwear. Square yards. 9, 345, 556 9, 324, 720 20, 836 Value. $2, 352, 086 2, 344, 559 7,527 Blankets. Square yards. 5, 465, 277 187, 530 5, 266, 643 11,104 Value. 82,325,307 42, 194 2, 274, 774 8,339 Total. Worsted goods . . . Woolen goods Carpets and rugs. Felt gcods products — continued. All-wool woven goods, whether woolens or worsted — Cont'd. Horse blankets. Square yards. 618, 452 614, 952 "S, 500 8259, 221 256, 211 "" 3, oio Carriage robes. Square yards. 28, 979 615 28, 364 Value. 817,877 510 17, 367 Woven shawls. Square yards. 600, 104 87,902 512, 202 $500, 523" 72, 248 428, 275 Union or cotton mixed, woven goods. Unions, tweeds, etc. Square yards. 30, 767, 915 Value. Overcoatings, etc. Square yards. 411, 902 5, 675, 464 83, 518, 613 353, 864 3, 164, 749 Sackings, tricots, etc., and opera and similar flan- nels. Square yards. 11, 176, 752 Value. $3, 669, 584 products— continued. Union or cotton-mixed woven goods — Continued. Flannels for underwear. Square yards. Value. Blankets. Square yards. Horse blankets. Square yards. Value. Carriage robes. Square yards. Value. Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, wor- sted, or of hair (or cot- ton weft with warp of wool). Wool filling, cassimeres, etc. Square yards. Value. Total. Worsted goods . Woolen goods.. 6,217,094 81,284,578 1,530,696 8561,649 1,094,537 $228, 943 8152, 499 37, 160, 449 $11, 024, 538 661, 649 1,094,537 228, 943 460,210 2, 073, 990 35,086,459 1,356,735 9,667,803 products— continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, hair (or cotton weft with warp of wool) — Continued. Worsted filling cassimeres, etc. Wool filling overcoatings and cloakings. Astrakhans, etc. Satinets and linseys. Worsted rilling dress goods, etc. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Total 12, 663, 719 87, 267, 608 3, 917, 498 $1,430,430 32, 576 814, 160 13,051,729 $2, 873, 181 45,784,011 810,423,206 10, 540, 927 2, 122, 792 6,401,491 866, 017 39, 611, 517 6, 172, 494 8, 466, 106 1, 957, 100 3, 917, 498 1, 430, 430 32. 576 14, 150 13,051,729 2, 873, 181 Table 30.— WOOL WOOL. 135 MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. products — continued. Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly o£ wool, worsted, or hair (or cotton weft with warp of wool)— Continued. Wool filling, dress goods, and repellants. Domett flannels aDd shirtings. Linings, Italian cloths, etc. Cotton-warp blankets. Horse blankets. Square yard Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards Value. Square yards. Value. Total 7,496,898 SI, 890, 488 4,555,013 $976,465 10,157,039 $2,228,434 11,159,532 $2,314,003 5, 702, 315 $1,252,824 Worsted goods 347,882 7, 149, 016 155,042 1,735,446 6, 987, 330 3, 169, 709 1,953,139 275,295 4, 555, 013 976,465 11,107,104 52,428 2,241,342 72, 661 5, 702, 316 1,252,824 - products— continued. Goods woven on cot ton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or of hair (or cotton weft with warpof wool) — continued. Upholstery goods and sundries. Carpets and rugs. Carpets. Carriage robes. Woolen and worsted upholstery goods. Other up- holstery goods. Ingrain, 2-ply. Ingrain, 3-ply. Ingrain. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards, Value. Total 1, 250, 900 8816, 733 541, 909 $786, 461 $2, 922, 850 36,800,494 $13, 250, 801 3,223,100 $1, 146, 653 2, 328, 906 $1, 007, 627 43, 614 403, 954 94,341 62, 130 679, 991 44, 340 454,995 2, 062, 611 405, 244 Woolen goods 1,250,233 815,233 1,500 102,202 36, 698, 292 28,144 13,222,657 543 3,222,657 380 1,146,273 667 2, 328, 906 1,007,627 products— continued. Carpets and rugs— Continued. Carpets — Continued. Tapestry Brussels. Body Brussels. Tapestry velvet. Wilton and Wilton velvet. Axminster. Moquette. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Running yards of 27 inches wide. Value. Total 11,649,932 $5,520,665 3, 581, 991 $2, 979, 867 5, 706, 754 $3, 743, 353 4, 782, 835 $4, 030, 842 5, 074, 961 $3, 637, 001 1,627,410 $1,125,268 11, 649, 932 5, 520, 665 3, 581, 991 2, 979, 867 5, 706, 754 3,743,353 4,782,835 4, 030, 842 5, 074, 961 3,637,001 1,627,410 1,125,268 products — continued. Carpets and rugs— Continued. Rugs. Tapestry. Wilton. Moquette and Ax- minster. Ingrain. Smyrna carpets and rugs. Other rugs. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Total 18,760 $9,000 339, 784 $545,967 327, 598 $342, 262 393, 417 $168, 324 3, 651, 661 $3, 680, 618 5,115,505 $2, 394, 524 18,750 9,000 339, 784 545, 967 327, 598 342, 262 393, 417 168, 324 3, 651, 661 3, 680, 618 5,111,173 4.332 2, 391, 434 3.090 136 Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES. MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS) : SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. products — continued. Felt goods. Felt cloths. Endless belts. Boot and shoe linings. Hair felting. Trimming and lining felts, felt skirts, etc. All other felts. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Square yards. V alue. Square yards. Value. Value. Total 2, 169, 061 $599, 961 1, 114, 357 $1,084,836 1,052,538 $540, 110 125,000 4~ 2,472,568 $797,093 «2 . ffflR S4n Woolen goods 113, 059 51,418 2,738 375 8,029 15,393 Carpets and rugs 2,056,002 548,543 1,114,357 1, 084, 835 1, 052, 538 540, 110 125,000 9 469 san 796, 718 2,261,918 products — continued. Hats. Partly manufactured products for sale. Wool hats. Fur hats. Woolen yarn all wool. Worsted yarn and tops. Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed. Mohair and similar yarn. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. . Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Total 823,425 83,166,761 43,994 $285,705 33, 812, 065 $7,075,883 45,780,272 $31,171,461 1 15,984,567 $4,673,012 1,004,113 $924, 344 3, 556, 375 29,143,476 1,073,214 39,000 1,062,508 5, 752, 118 252,857 18,400 41,659,360 1,343,983 2,776,929 29, 368, 056 723, 369 1,090,036 2,637,303 1,903,639 13, 437, 264 ' 7«4 48fi 788, 166 215, 947 705,211 12,000 6,400 10,000 4,887 Felt goods Wool hats 811,425 3,161,361 43, 994 286,705 products — continued. P artly m anuf ictured proc lucts fo r sal ;— Cont inue i. Cotton yarn. Wool card rolls. Noils. Waste. Shoddy. Flocks. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Total 3, 531, 992 $527,046 977, 706 $395, 808 12,851,031 $3,474,318 8,511,905 $1,258,170 430, 176 $70,064 512, 422 $33,017 76, 013 3, 465, 979 19,760 507,286 12, 052, 814 124,029 674, 188 3,335,251 18, 936 120, 131 7, 184, 821 978, 473 330, 361 18, 260 1, 162, 610 67, 059 21,133 7,368 297, 628 212,625 11, 783 21,037 977, 706 395,808 430, 176 70,064 Carpets and rugs 2,169 197 products — continued. Partly manufactured products for sale — Continued. Hosiery and knit goods. No. 14. Wool-hat bod- ies and hats in the rough. Hose and half hose. Woolen. Merino or mixed. Cotton. Half hose. Hose. Half hose. Hose. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. 56,006 $120, 262 3,438 $11, 714 828 $3,122 852 $1,806 80 $180 3,438 11,714 828 3,122 852 1,806 80 56,006 120, 262 180 WOOL. 137 Table 30.— WOOL MANUFACTURES (EXCLUDING HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS): SUMMARY BY CLASSES, 1900— Cont'd. products — continued. Hosiery and knit goods— Continued. Leggings and gaiters. Gloves and mittens. Eiderdown. All other products. Contract work. Boot and shoe lin- ings. Jersey cloth and stockinette. Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Dozens. Value. Dozens. Value. Square yards. Value. Value. Value. Total 11,420 88,800 2,784 SI, 010 207 81,656 1,238 84,641 361,000 $126, 403 $5, 748, 109 81,613,054 1,077,474 1, 190, 662 2,648,205 831, 327 441 793, 338 11,420 8,800 2,784 1,010 207 1,656 1,238 4,541 361,000 126,403 775, 445 20,100 24,171 COMPARISON OF PRODUCTS. POWER. Number of estab- lish- ments reporting for both years. Census yeai 1900. Preceding business year. Number of estab- lish- ments re- porting. Total horse- power. Owned. Engines. Water wheels. Electric motors. Other power. Steam. Gas orgasoline. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Num- ber. Horse- power. Total 1,163 8277,335,465 .'227,326,132 1,393 274,262 1,525 186, 252 17 446 1,161 79, 056 89 2,697 3 9 861 146 114 25 18 109,712,214 113,635,037 46, 885, 929 3,867,905 3,234,380 95,443,073 85,483,346 40,191,460 3, 416, 320 2, 791, 933 1,024 185 127 36 21 139, 645 97,383 26,932 7,973 2,329 893 399 155 52 26 82, 933 73, 180 23,091 5,129 1,919 12 4 1 191 220 35 954 147 22 29 9 52,358 20, 491 3,145 2,657 405 51 26 5 6 1 1,217 1,151 192 132 5 2 1 4 6 power— continued. Rented. J 'urnished to other establish- ments. Electric. Other kind. Total number of establish- ments. No em- ployees. Uuder 5. 6 to 20. 21 to 50. 51 to 100. 101 to 250. 251 to 600. 601 to 1,000. Over Horse- power. Horse- power. Horse- power. 1,000. Total 4,798 1,004 1,044 1,414 115 193 206 243 282 116 45 2,942 1,801 28« 260 484 14 1, 035 186 133 36 24 114 186 1 2 1 3 146 17 33 4 6 155 42 30 13 3 194 53 20 10 5 61 28 19 2 5 19 23 3 535 469 10 18 6 1 55 i 138 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: Number of establishments Character of organization : Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company '. Capital: Total Land Buildings '.'.'.'.'.'. Machinery, tools, and implements .............'. Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries . : '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.. Men — Number Salaries ' . ' " Women — Number Salaries '.'.'.'.'. Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February ' March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Knitters — Men, 16 years and over Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Combing machines, number Of Am erican manufacture Of foreign manufacture Spindles, n limber ,- Spinning- Woolen Worsted Cotton United States. 1,035 426 298 311 $124, 386, 262 87, 948, 126 $17, 760, 364 $28, 703, 473 $69. 974, 299 822 2,246 $2, 934, 048 402 $847, 208 1,844 $2, 086, 840 1,664 $2,001,528 180 $85, 312 81, 511 60,489 68, 893 $24, 757, 006 40, 601 $16,913,731 24, 635 $7,218,087 3,757 $625, 188 39, 214 39, 772 40, 930 41,092 40, 361 39, 532 38, 839 39, 714 40, 898 41, 900 42, 502 42, 438 24, 001 23, 964 24, 676 24, 750 24, 491 23,934 23, 503 33, 792 24, 658 25,454 25, 720 25, 477 3,564 3,644 3,757 8,738 3,709 3,699 3,731 3,732 3,818 3, 840 3,922 3,930 5,619 1,137 790 10, 881 11,812 103 4,625 2,793 180 5,010 123 77 46 1, 906, 581 1,714,952 40, 914 50, 276 Alabama. 6 3 2 $97, 759 $2, 176 $14, 795 $31, 723 $49, 066 13 2 $1, 820 2 $1,820 2 $1,820 116 75 $10, 458 21 $3,863 51 160 160 Arkansas. 13 $43, 525 $2, 855 $6,000 $17, 800 $16, 870 18 $903 Jl 33 27 $5,158 14 $3,264 11 $1, 651 16 1,000 91M California. $1, 050, 474 $90, 900 $117, 935 $270, 348 $671, 291 1 18 $25,460 6 $10, 100 12 $16, 360 12 $15, 360 522 387 430 $159, 825 264 $113,826 147 $43, 012 19 $2,987 234 219 269 250 250 255 288 2X2 293 299 309 224 119 105 138 146 161 147 1.54 167 173 175 172 117 17 16 17 15 17 21 20 20 23 22 21 18 30 10,932 10, 476 Connecticut. 51 15 28 $9, 140, 066 8395, 966 $1, 458, 743 $2, 012, 192 $5, 273, 165 46 144 $191, 357 44 $69,300 100 $122, 057 94 $119,734 6 $2,323 5,628 4,082 4,668 $1,760,917 3,071 $1,285,590 1,448 $445, 762 149 $29,565 3,006 3,026 3,181 3,128 3,082 2,833 2,783 2,968 3,127 3,212 3,248 3,258 1,433 1,417 1,497 1,461 1,447 1,342 1,347 1,998 1,442 1,503 1,537 1,548 153 147 156 114 147 142 133 142 145 156 160 169 379 15 5 344 250 12 343 32 30 2 149, 278 127, 218 2,000 10, 000 WOOL. 139 BY STATES, 1900. Georgia. Illinois. Indiana. Iowa. Kentucky. Maine. Maryland. Massachu- setts. Michigan. Minnesota. Mississippi. Missouri. fc 14 13 20 12 36 76 4 131 16 19 4 25 1 8 6 5 6 20 25 1 45 7 11 2 17 2 2 4 2 6 3 11 12 2 32 7 t, 5 S 5 9 4 5 39 1 54 2 2 2 3 4 $455,114 $1,571,625 $1,849,263 $494,074 81, 588, 816 $12,642,058 $1,330,549 $33,196,903 $775, 609 $762,826 $316,700 $490, 747 5 832, 065 $100,994 $57, 375 $24,990 $32,956 $728, 715 $28,630 $2,357,173 $14,200 $178, 900 $5,400 $36,135 6 $61,895 $211,679 $288,799 $67,850 $157, 195 $1,833,515 $169, 177 $4,663,468 8111, 938 $133, 092 $96,400 $89,450 7 $198, 185 $367, 731 $525,997 $143,360 $340, 422 $2, 759, 954 $171,663 85,706,431 $187,285 $183, 005 $107, 900 $170, 475 8 $162, 969 8891,221 $977, 092 $257, 884 $1,058,244 $7,319,874 8961, 079 $20,469,831 $462,186 $267, 828 $106,000 $194, 687 9 1 4 12 11 18 34 6 102 16 6 2 18 10 13 50 58 26 20 190 25 438 23 20 5 18 11 $16, 936 $69,023 $68,148 $16, 611 $28,972 $241,988 835,625 $729,724 $18,099 $23, 450 $10, 166 $20,928 12 3 6 15 5 9 39 3 55 3 2 2 7 13 $7, 114 812, 000 $24,430 $4,320 $21,200 $69, 1J5 $14, 100 $203, 875 $3,500 $11, 000 $2,000 $9,900 14 10 44 43 . 21 11 151 22 383 20 18 3 11 15 $9, 822 857, 023 $43,718 812,291 $7,772 $172, 873 $21,625 $525,849' $14,599 $12,450 $8,166 811,028 16 10 40 37 19 9 140 20 326 19 16 3 9 17 $9, 822 $54,788 $39,712 811,523 $6,692 $167,599 $20, 401 $496,264 $14, 365 $10, 950 $8,166 $10,128 18 4 $2,235 883 6 84,006 1,226 2 8768 2 $1,080 704 11 $5,274 7,746 2 $1, 124 57 $29, 685 1 $234 2 $1,500 2 $900 19 20 590 295 913 21,040 441 355 332 336 21 651 637 782 242 642 5,086 811 14, 966 311 305 262 219 22 561 693 1,048 256 618 6,280 877 17, 717 337 300 302 237 23 $97, 159 $210, 167 $306, 822 864, 596 $144,874 $2,383,323 $221,215 $6,823,051 $108,168 $90, 662 $55, 192 $63, 314 24 284 368 432 126 149 4,230 576 11, 177 193 160 146 139 25 $65, 013 $139, 831 $169,875 839,576 $50,350 $1,778,171 $173, 152 $4, 803, 450 $71, 726 $60,196 $34,869 $42,427 26 189 290 571 128 364 1,941 204 5,865 144 119 111 79 27 $31,720 $66,888 $129,266 $24,647 $79, 966 $584, 122 $38,011 $1, 888, 520 $36,442 $27,081 $16, 234 $18, 298 28 88 $10,426 275 36 83, 438 372 45 $7,681 396 2 105 109 97 675 21 45 19 29 $373 111 $14,558 125 $21,030 4,245 $10, 052 $131,081 11, 027 $3,385 $4,089 $2,589 30 663 196 127 125 67 31 274 351 410 113 125 4,223 557 11, 252 201 126 139 140 32 278 360 425 112 129 4,303 673 11,611 202 135 144 149 33 288 313 423 116 139 4,215 685 11, 583 188 152 147 166 34 293 366 441 126 162 4,081 585 10, 988 183 180 145 186 35 291 372 430 131 170 4,007 587 11, 008 207 174 138 187 36 290 372 403 142 175 3,847 597 10, 439 198 182 140 176 37 291 390 438 138 174 4,124 672 10, 413 189 169 146 159 38 293 391 465 139 152 4,244 583 11,054 189 172 156 149 39 281 399 456 130 140 4,448 575 11,399 193 170 156 123 40 272 370 457 132 154 4,544 563 11,662 190 168 156 45 41 279 366 438 123 137 4,481 568 11,787 180 163 158 125 42 181 296 519 122 366 1,924 200 5,781 153 98 96 64 43 181 285 525 124 364 1,908 203 5,933 161 96 106 85 44 185 290 657 119 364 1,966 208 6,066 168 101 no 82 45 191 243 657 121 365 1,961 207 6,079 138 119 111 74 46 195 292 579 127 365 1,884 202 5,896 126 135 109 95 47 196 287 549 133 366 1,863 203 5,832 138 133 106 95 48 197 300 551 135 366 1,768 201 5,446 142 139 107 87 49 197 309 682 134 366 1,897 206 6,269 133 125 112 88 50 195 313 635 137 346 1,893 208 5,701 143 124 118 64 51 182 311 604 126 348 2,019 208 6,023 150 121 119 63 52 182 277 605 130 376 2,102 203 6,167 144 123 120 69 53 183 279 686 124 377 2,111 202 6,186 137 118 122 87 54 87 89 87 91 87 90 89 88 88 88 88 86 77 29 29 29 31 30 31 32 39 40 40 42 42 31 42 46 49 37 46 97 97 100 102 118 123 131 139 81 85 95 104 625 668 693 703 20 20 20 23 39 43 44 45 18 18 20 22 55 56 57 1 58 5 106 100 111 693 23 44 27 59 44 5 108 105 110 685 23 42 25 60 49 5 110 86 114 652 23 44 23 61 44 5 111 93 99 621 23 45 22 62 55 5 112 83 97 682 20 47 13 63 46 1 112 98 87 689 20 48 14 64 44 1 108 95 96 695 20 49 12 65 42 100 133 89 695 20 50 9 66 23 14 77 480 96 1,467 27 33 14 17 67 11 66 89 30 3 102 107 6 76 8 87 17 1 11 68 21 15 1 67 67 1 69 74 17 19 1,231 115 3,101 27 13 15 20 70 167 57 343 40 273 699 122 3,014 46 101 59 79 71 10 2 1 6 8 1 72 1 18 73 34 33 55 12 23 485 52 1,522 29 8 21 74 6 33 2 46 17 11 2 381 22 701 15 1 9 75 2 68 4 422 5 59 1,251 19 8 11 472, 984 2 38 76 31 3 3 85 26 47 40 26 36 77 78 79 5 168, 915 80 11,008 16, 156 46, 864 9, 552 21, 215 15,828 14, 707 9,524 8,916 7,762 81 11,008 15,286 39,608 9,028 20, 871 145, 853 6,984 3,584 15,798 442, 946 8,352 1,300 13, 512 8,978 8,916 7,523 82 83 6,500 1 84 140 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: Machinery — Continued. Spindles, number — Continued. Doubling- Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number , Broad, 50 inches or over, reed space — On woolen goods On worsted goods Narrow, under 50 inches, reed space- On woolen goods On worsted goods Hand- On woolen or worsted goods Looms on carpets and rugs, number Ingrain — Hand Power '. . Body Brussels- Power Formers for fur hats Braiders Knitting machines, number Spring-beard needle — Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Latch needle- Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic Lamb and other variety, hand Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included . Contract work Material used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur- Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds Cost Mohair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill- Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils, pounds Cost Mohair noils, pounds Cost Tops, pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill- Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Linen, pounds Cost Jute, ramie, or other of vegetable fiber, pounds Cost Shoddy made in mill for use therein, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds United States. 74, 731 24,848 860 34,881 19, 056 1,994 12, 656 1,143 32 142 103 500 12, 128 157 4 110 5 11 16 2 2 87, 268, 634 8365, 171 8566,452 85,880,517 8456, 494 871,011,956 22,521,954 84,598,624 127, 678, 662 829,899,065 89,366,903 238,247 834,337 1,117,179 8459, 831 19, 679, 181 81,090,796 80,725 34,967,959 82, 755, 485 31,228,940 83, 767, 192 13,473,154 $3, 249, 982 185,909 844,450 113, 562 825,587 305, 333 8163, 964 3, 059, 771 81,272,954 6,214,076 84,791,079 3, 215, 245 8516, 636 21,922,136 83,782,240 34,007 8145,514 23, 957 $72, 632 7,845 86,998 1,118,767 857,384 35, 626, 165 $2, 817, 663 8536, 001 18, 758, 003 8742, 528 2,467,865 8693,228 83,968,020 81,795,286 8102, 131 8655, 338 81,983,130 8983, 881 2, 783, 739 Alabama. 88,091 8113 8231 87,647 $100 843, 078 129, 041 824, 511 68,465 40 20,000 82,000 46, 096 $4,609 78, 281 89, 216 125 85 927 $130 $500 $940 Arkansas. 40 129, 637 822, 817 85,175 14,000 $2,480 $495 8355 8317 5,300 8165 850 8222 8550 $1,404 8100 8505 8340 $15 California. Connecticut. 450 142 119 $78, 261 $4,417 $73, 844 8409, 445 2,045.311 $317, 075 824, 116 84 43,058 $3,122 40, 714 $5,140 1,000 $1,200 24, 377 $5,964 79, 265 84,781 440,000 86,658 10, 721 $3, 597 $26, 600 $3,550 $5, 866 $6,959 6,060 4,000 2,274 1,527 280 461 6 8473,106 817,912 $38,435 $399, 322 $17,437 $4,951,162 717, 771 $254,033 7,309,254 $2,075,025 5,527,290 5,000 $2,000 164, 331 813, 721 3,414 1,694,850 8159, 049 4, 344, 780 8472,421 1,021,804 $186, 135 795 $182 6,248 $1,849 17, 236 $9, 211 40,976 $26, 075 615, 351 8530,389 4,000 81, 101 902,313 $192, 395 51 $207 1, 862, 929 $168,254 $18, 205 1,076,286 $47,084 175, 527 848,417 8297, 765 8170, 595 $700 $55,784 $142, 950 $77, 615 565,000 WOOL. 141 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Georgia. Illinois. Indiana. Iowa. Kentucky. Maine. Maryland. Massachu- setts. Michigan. Minnesota. Mississippi. Missouri. 870 756 524 344 7,206 5,288 30 15, 978 4,408 1,195 546 239 85 86 87 503 184 161 2 21 891 274 112 91 533 71 2,447 2,3-54 179 176 8,939 5,384 541 2,960 54 159 130 143 129 130 62 196 69 88 89 90 503 617 21 460 93 3 29 14 68 127 91 2 93 104 1 94 95 96 103 97 98 1,000 99 8 4 4 mo 101 ^IY> r 103 104 105 1116 107 108 $22, 430 873, 486 $1, 350 $5, 727 $66, 409 $97, 855 $1,660 $12, 093 $84,102 $16,831 $650 $2, 726 813,455 $48,644 $556 86,365 $41, 723 $659, 319 $4,794 $54, 166 $599, 911 $448 $6, 842, 679 2, 410, 357 $624,003 15,904,448 83,655,250 9,908,269 9,781 $1, 482 428, 845 $180,055 823, 952 $60, 066 4,586 2, 298, 770 $247, 988 3, 094, 185 $464, 512 1,017,527 $309, 285 30, 228 814, 402 655 $151 3,263 $1,557 17, 839 $8,585 28,795 $23, 165 $54, 181 $5, 940 $48,241 81, 745, 199 $114, 538 $208, 768 $1,331,195 890, 698 $18, 273, 424 3, 204, 445 $767, 172 35, 482, 272 $7, 610, 619 20, 256, 198 29,499 $8,109 656,754 $269. 637 879, 331 855, 349 10, 059 4, 746, 530 $453, 782 8, 628, 598 $994,924 2, 847, 395 $855, 126 100, 773 $20, 062 31, 512 $7, 332 11, 136 $7, 799 949, 270 $329,444 1,979,720 81,685,696 50, 080 86,348 3,813,317 $760, 694 1,438 $8,619 1,700 $5,652 4,000 83,000 5,984 8403 12, 891, 959 $1, 151, 019 $61, 380 4, 409, 936 $178, 047 '509, 750 $167, 000 $1, 246, 294 $537, 646 $29, 239 $187,495 $605, 720 $259, 817 12, 000 $29, 717 8650 $5,632 $23, 435 $36, 178 $1,255 83,894 $31,029 $17, 817 $21, 067 $148 $2, 271 $18,648 109 110 S3, 012 $18, 455 $963 $280, 295 5,200 $1,040 267, 478 $57, 910 169, 282 $3, 511 $14, 266 $40 $103,308 111 112 113 $492, 270 $876, 659 8175,426 $405,775 43, 917 $8, 051 703, 825 $168,682 477,628 $667, 036 8406,726 12, 981 83, 894 1, 406, 473 $300, 803 802,481 $272,483 3,334 $1, 040 1, 281, 977 $221, 855 659, 643 $206, 679 114 115 116 1,439,452 $358, 116 777, 507 3, 152, 301 $629, 635 1,697,505 773, 053 $147, 698 380, 049 1,938,908 $434, 634 980, 023 244,434 $48,628 142,094 464, 946 $151, 762 600,154 117 118 119 1?0 T>1 550 860 1,000 8160 2,928 1, 433, 936 8101,536 111,357 819, 143 1,618 8436 1,194 $327 19? in 1>4 V'5 87 43, 217 84,497 128,244 $21, 987 10, 500 $2,800 1,491 736, 030 $46, 562 88,235 $14, 063 157, 795 $38, 879 9 4,103 $513 2,756 8441 5,000 $750 1,686 856, 115 $49, 661 144, 124 $33, 874 1,267 637, 730 $49, 661 58, 326 $14, 621 53, 746 $10, 946 102 55, 650 $5, 571 119, 261 $22, 727 39, 622 $17,754 3 1,475 $152 8, 475 $1,141 13, 892 $3,583 144 70,560 $3,780 359 166, 221 $9, 150 80, 779 $12, 182 126 127 128 r>9 130 131 1T> 133 134 1% 136 137 13S 139 140 9,078 $7, 572 10, 864 $8, 179 110 $110 141 14'' 143 1 14 284, 536 $49, 337 23,500 $4,610 108,413 $19,463 500 $100 581,454 $92,062 901, 913 $164, 017 3, 000 $1, 200 2,050 $220 12, 600 82,500 113, 012 $16, 952 145 146 147 148 149 150 3,595 $3,955 151 15'' 1,500 $240 58, 532 $5, 169 $63 10, 920 $426 9,706 $1,726 $24, 800 $6, 347 2,008 $257 153 1,54 37, 532 $1,422 108, 650 $13,364 1,030,345 $51,902 $193 2, 047, 844 $83,217 165, 694 849, 265 $398, 788 $188, 202 $15, 062 $62, 560 $167, 189 8167, 828 264, 667 1,219,108 $92, 279 820 47, 589 84,053 28, 913 $15, 182 $26, 647 $13, 198 447, 117 $22, 563 155 156 $32,554 221,543 $9,237 20,264 $2, 397 $27,258 $13, 378 $200 $4,535 81, 703 $1,426 157 486, 216 $16, 018 83,849 $7, 514 $42,487 $29, 374 $900 $9, 312 $7,785 $5,739 100,000 158,029 $3,345 4,961 $1,299 $9, 967 86,003 $40 $3, 076 8825 $1,002 1,000 79, 623 $1,480 10,201 $2, 196 $14, 758 88,555 858 $4,688 $3,966 $4,380 150,000 133, 832 $5, 539 12, 504 $3,525 $22, 127 815,981 $250 $4,125 $885 $2, 345 215, 420 $8,966 14, 348 $4, 282 $6,107 $6, 608 $2,398 $4,089 $8,645 $3, 397 251, 000 $2,620 4, 325 $1,041 $4. Sail $8| 5.* 27,025 $623 • 9, 820 $3, 766 $4, 891 85, 239 845 81,804 $75 $90 15S 15C 160 161 162 11 « 1 in $1, 765 $5,660 84,577 $5,045 $2,918 $5, 678 $200 165 166 $750 167 168 142 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: United States. Alabama. Arkansas. California. Connecticut. 169 Products: $118, 430, 158 30,715,638 $20,136,951 3,829,107 $3,450,777 17, 011, 186 $14,426,064 860,443 $559, 612 30,273,238 $11,378,030 3,231,517 $1,321,879 1, 220, 408 $696, 999 9, 324, 720 $2, 344, 559 6, 266, 643 $2, 274, 774 514,952 $256,211 615 $510 612, 202 8428, 275 29,588,901 $12,815,389 5,675,464 $3, 164, 749 10, 105, 548 $3, 341, 341 6,217,094 $1, 284, 578 1, 630, 696 8561, 649 1, 094, 637 8228, 943 460, 210 8152,499 35, 086, 459 $9,667,803 2, 122, 792 $866, 017 3,917,498 $1,438,430 32, 676 $14, 150 13,051,729 $2,873,181 6,172,494 81, 957, 100 7, 149, 016 $1, 735, 446 4,555,013 8976, 465 3, 169, 709 $275, 295 11,107,104 $2, 241, 342 5, 702, 316 $1, 252, 824 1, 250, 233 $816,233 403,954 $679, 991 $2, 062, 611 102, 202 $28,144 543 $380 113, 059 $51, 418 2,738 $375 $8,029 12,000 $5,400 29,143,476 $5, 752, 118 1,343,983 $723, 369 13, 437, 264 $2, 764, 486 867, 263 51,225 $19,792 $42,401 4,860 $2, 946 $687, 354 98,589 $92,352 1,500 $2, 500 76, 095 $78,826 $8, 097, 218 1,481,730 81,089,659 795, 086 8626, 639 2, 122, 730 81, 851, 673 170 171 All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted — Wool cloths, doeskins, cassimeres, cheviots, tweeds, indigo flannels, and broadcloths, for men's wear, square yards. Value 17? Worsted coatings, serges, and suitings, for men's wear, square yards 173 174 Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc., for men's or women's wear, square yards. 175 176 Worsted overcoatings and cloakings, for men's or women's wear, square yards. 177 178 Wool dress goods, sackings, tricots, ladies' cloth, broadcloth, and other all-wool goods for women's wear, and opera and similar flannels, square yards. 2, 301, 173 $939, 698 17f 180 Worsted dress goods, cassimeres, serges, and other worsted goods for women's wear, and buntings, square yards. 181 W 66,848 $32, 866 1, 754, 930 8174, 145 1R? 184 764 $305 1,500 $900 549,044 $164, 408 386, 873 $211,762 4,000 82,000 185 186 487 188 21, 822 $8,225 189 190 191 192 14, 613 $20, 824 2, 001, 035 $863,243 745,878 $417, 6D4 629, 149 $328,304 193 194 Union or cotton mixed, woven goods — Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, or other goods for men's wear, square yards. 5,000 $1,800 52, 107 $31,264 195 196 197 198 Sackings, tricots, and dress goods for women's wear, and opera and simi- lar flannels, square yards. 199 201 202 2,500 $1,000 145, 759 862, 736 390 8206 24,000 816,800 205 208 Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted or hair, or cotton weft with warp of wool— Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cotton- warp goodsf or men's wear, not specified below, square yards. 28,664 $9,504 1, 455, 329 $413, 700 355,288 $201, 136 61, 769 826, 100 209 210 Worsted-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cotton -warp goods for men' s wear, not specified below, square yards. 211 214 4,000 $1,000 929,900 $205, 120 217 Worsted-filling dress goods, delaines, cassimeres, serges, mohairs, alpacas, and other stuffs, for women's wear, square yards. 247,558 $123, 453 1, 515, 525 $280, 692 225 300 $96 40, 000 $22, 600 740 $525 295, 659 $78, 981 63,416 $25,366 231 Upholstery goods and sundries — 235 Carpets and rugs — Carpets — 99, 552 $26, 879 237 Felt goods- 2,000 82, 000 Trimming and lining felts, felt skirts and skirting, table and piano covers, saddle felts, square yards. 243 244 245 Hats— Partly manufactured products for sale- 5,760 $2, 804 248 Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed, pounds 251 WOOL. 143 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Georgia. Illinois. Indiana. Iowa. Kentucky. Maine. Maryland. Massachu- setts. Michigan. Minnesota. Mississippi. Missouri. $491,001 $932,987 906, 163 $654 213 13,081 810,380 1,980 $1, 386 $1,491,218 486, 836 $351,769 $296, 500 333,121 $155,060 $746, 684 425 $345 $11,633,232 4,175,588 $2,420,866 81,218,378 478, 192 8239, 096 $30,888,104 10, 735, 748 $6, 879, 279 874, 613 $1,272,831 6, 151, 856 $5,544,178 6,270 $3,314 11,537,565 $3, 766, 850 1,086,359 $403, 917 802, 311 8365, 147 2,219,663 8689, 248 $626,836 757, 174 $459, 758 $496, 812 110,833 $66,700 $172, 908 $348, 974 8,825 $5,950 169 170 171 172 173 32,778 $21,852 75,000 $150,000 490, 804 $217,866 1,779,389 $1,602,482 225,343 $169, 007 16,500 $12,-537 174 175 176 177 666 8299 102, 006 $35,313 5,403,946 $2,182,474 69,131 $18, 898 18, 667 $4,800 178 179 ISO 181 4,322 $2,200 111,517 $30, 234 129, 180 $42,184 2,000 $800 925 $273 12,875 $10,532 31, 825 812, 496 200 8150 18? 183 1,722 $768 87, 504 $67,240 718, 372 $224,596 598, 639 $175, 307 2,706 $1,000 2,240 8896 120, 360 838, 623 1,754,267 $330, 362 185,281 $52, 101 260, 784 $152, 907 8,000 $2, 400 400 $200 33, 583 $10, 650 655, 401 8325, 670 1,080 $270 64,080 $22, 307 258, 792 $129, 832 184 185 186 187 13,750 89,000 188 189 615 8510 190 191 33,949 $41, 502 2, 664, 583 $1,691,408 598, 969 $410, 739 1,043,906 8366, 540 227, 400 841,430 500 $200 151, 108 851,164 3,000 81,700 19? 193 120, 000 8112, 505 1,930 $547 1, 934, 597 $807, 675 3,849,310 $1,535,204 1, 439, 836 $715,543 4,414,628 $1,345,081 3,011,516 8587, 105 433, 262 8218, 928 1,375 8655 387,085 884, 312 6, 966, 602 82,178,525 489, 816 $296, 206 1, 055, 861 $224, 270 17,576 $10, 150 10, 326, 148 82, 237, 965 403, 903 $149, 294 194 195 196 197 98, 112 $11, 242 ' 2,729 $798 2,303 $427 85, 621 $16, 746 2,875 $745 198 . 199 ?00 201 67,161 817, 100 49,344 $7, 462 48,704 $17, 269 1,965 $551 ?0? 203 204 905 206 207 2, 625, 479 $460, 469 70,450 816,205 5,333 81, 600 964, 927 $165,036 2,287,878 $496, 302 308, 330 868,460 150 875 1,121,716 $378,372 120,000 $56, 000 9,747 $10, 657 56, 034 821, 064 423, 559 $84, 324 208 209 210 211 212 213 214 215 16, 033 82,780 378 $301 14,834 $5,773 2,524 $1,525 751 $891 ?16 1 ''17 218 219 48, 600 $26,268 45, 585 $13, 764 2,819 $406 1,744,568 8261,700 471,757 $72, 700 865,380 8209, 430 167, 000 $182, 700 2, 180, 798 $181,041 1,120,224 $216,295 824,315 $130,477 244, 458 8114,176 106, 667 8200, 000 $64, 779 ??fl ??1 222 223 224 225 79,080 $20, 505 1,500 8600 15, 870 $2, 856 1,296 $440 1, 824, 470 $535, 233 136, 581 $54,897 700,000 $330, 809 292,087 $475, 591 750 $350 3,241 $1,946 168, 000 $44, 000 22ft 227 228 229 8,706 $6,094 280 231 232 233 234 235 236 287 238 110, 034 $48,455 239 240 241 242 24? 244 245 10, 100 $5,350 123, 188 $68,422 10, 466 87, 600 16, 099 $8, 149 30, 100 $19, 742 676,140 $320, 879 50, 000 $30, 000 197,200 $42, 936 177, 667 8110,975 79, 621 840, 782 45, 904 $27, 036 246 247 ■Mi 24S 15,096 $2, 335 25,000 $8,750 152, 320 $63,636 7, 637 $3. 003 60, 000 817, 400 2,793 $817 251 251 144 MANUFACTURES. Table 3*.— WOOLEN GOODS: Products — Continued. Total value — Continued. Partly manufactured products for sale — Continued. Mohair and similar yarn, pounds Value Cotton varn, pounds 1 Value Wool card rolls, pounds Value Noils, pounds Value Waste, pounds Value Shoddy, pounds Value Flocks, pounds Value Hosiery and knit goods — Hose and half hose — Woolen — Half hose, dozens Value Hose, dozens Value Merino or mixed — Half hose, dozens Value Cotton — Hose, dozens Value Leggins and gaiters, dozens Value Gloves and mittens, dozens Value Eiderdown shawls, dozens Value '. , Boot and shoe linings, square yards Value Jersey cloth and stockinette, square yards Value All other products - Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines — Steam- Number Horsepower ■ Gas or gasoline — Number Horsepower ■ Water wheels — Number Horsepower Electric motors- Number ■ Horsepower • Other power — Number Horsepower Rented— Electric, horsepower Other kind, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees Under 5 5 to 20 21 to 60 51 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 500 501 to 1 , 000 Over 1,000 United States. 215,947 $219, 133 3,455,979 $507, 286 977, 706 $395, 808 124, 029 $18, 936 978, 473 $67,059 430, 176 $70, 064 212, 625 $21, 037 3,438 $11,714 828 $3, 122 S.VJ $1,E Sl.su 207 $1,656 1,238 $4,641 361,000 $126, 403 11,420 $8,800 2,784 $1,010 $1,190,662 $775, 445 861 $109, 712, 214 $95,443,073 1,024 139, 645 82,933 12 191 954 52, 358 51 1,217 678 2,264 286 1,035 114 1S6 158 146 155 194 61 19 Alabama. 54,261 $20, 174 500 $50 9 $39, 955 $35, 422 10 235 7 176 'Arkansas. 57, 577 $21, 746 California. $31,111 13 $42, 401 $40, 206 11 224 7 164 5 $687, 354 $785,822 5 560 7 560 Connecticut. 52,557 $9, 367 188, 709 $7,663 202, 910 $38, 552 $320, 303 $13,470 44 $7, 645, 096 $6,699,210 51 11,636 58 6,315 5,180 4 New Hamp- shire. Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incoiporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members 43 :' 14 20 $8, 160, 673 $753, 850 $1,187,493 $1,872,793 $4, 346, 537 37 New Jersey New York. 13 3 3 7 4, 549, 798 $248, 502 $703, 322 $874, 970 12, 723, 004 1 65 28 23 14 $7, 338, 813 $440, 506 $949, 362 $1,871,495 $4,077,450 73 North Carolina. Ohio. 9 3 4 $347, 830 $18, 355 $42,400 $90, 754 $196, 321 11 i 35 16 12 7 $1,591,445 $112, 745 $280, 978 $472, 411 $725,311 28 WOOL. 145 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Georgia. Illinois. Indiana. Iowa. Kentucky. Maine. Maryland. Massachu- setts. Michigan. Minnesota. Mississippi. Missouri. 200,000 8200,000 957 ?5? 212, 156 841, 995 7,500 84,275 ?54 '55 28,700 811, 347 5,600 82,240 1,200 8650 109, 841 845, 981 97,501 843,014 122, 698 818, 404 95, 358 817,499 2,500 8950 34,200 816, 132 7,000 82, 100 80, 558 834,997 ?56 V57 1.331 8532 390, 932 822,892 ?58 ''59 2,700 8135 6,108 81, 076 2,956 8465 3,823 8331 60 8252 80 8432 WO 261 224, 160 830, 972 262 •>m 22,568 8597 132,500 817, 646 1,800 818 ">M ?65 9(i6 , 967 •Y,S 269 ?7fl ?71 979 ?73 974 975 976 ?77 361,000 8126, 403 11, 420 88,800 2,784 81,010 8120,175 8281, 770 92 829,216,027 825, 608, 616 131 36,373 187 21,858 97R 979 9*0 981 9R? ?R3 81, 226 819,314 81,415 81, 200 82,504 17 8457,683 8431, 167 19 971 12 416 9*4 8200 14 8491,001 8451, 923 14 748 5 340 8166 19 81,191,855 81,220,062 20 1,955 21 1,695 2 35 6 215 1 10 8600 15 8734,877 8743, 174 36 i,232 28 1,101 8450 4 8172, 908 8237, 242 4 422 4 407 "»-5 12 8931,447 8915, 648 13 1,269 13 1,054 11 8287,030 8328,630 12 485 5 343 69 810, 907, 266 89,054,710 75 13, 784 51 4,080 3 81, 216, 778 81,080,752 4 1,020 4 450 14 8552,644 8541,674 16 1,106 15 971 1 12 3 68 2 30 23 8342,694 8418,836 25 697 20 600 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 ?93 994 13 375 2 33 4 175 5 40 8 142 9 116 119 8,604 9 570 202 14,245 9 170 11 396 2 30 1 15 5 91 295 296 997 ?98 299 aon 15 525 575 190 76 7 13 5 6 12 26 6 1 15 20 am 40 100 129 20 19 3 6 8 2 6 40 25 2 15 5 1 an? 303 14 13 20 1 4 4 3 3 4 1 12 3 1 4 1 2 1 36 6 18 7 1 2 1 1 4 1 131 16 1 3 6 4 4 304 aos 9 2 3 3 1 3 1 2 1 aofi 12 23 29 44 15 8 307 1 1 3 308 3(19 2 1 2 31 n 3 1 311 31? 313 Oregon. V Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Tennessee. Texas. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. West Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 11 3 1 7 $1, 175, 820 8102, 796 8135,221 8315,907 8621,896 3 193 83 83 27 819,405,605 81, 051, 999 82, 576, 460 85,612,433 810,164,613 231 26 6 7 13 86,068,073 8636, 200 8925,412 81,240,042 83,266,419 24 51 33 9 9 82, 399, 518 857, 103 8271, 816 81,189,560 8881,039 29 3 1 1 1 8285, 663 818, 250 854,150 8112, 792 8100, 471 1 6 23 10 6 7 83,001,347 8133,625 8473, 114 8731,290 81,663,318 21 28 10 9 9 8783,527 844,656 8116, 971 8180, 252 8441,648 15 33 22 5 6 8683,683 828, 037 892,408 8222,080 8341, 158 12 32 16 8 8 81, 794, 055 8154,654 8265, 896 8433,588 8939, 917 26 7 3 1 ?, 9 S 4 8454, 981 832, 620 891,630 896, 905 8233, 826 4 8540,424 824,800 8111,800 8191,740 8212, 084 2 4 5 6 i 7 1 8 9 \ 10 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; North Dakota, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wyoming, L MON- -TEXT- -10 146 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January - February - March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners- Men, 16 years and over Women , 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Knitters—, Men, 16 years and over Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Combing machines, number Of American manufacture Of foreign manufacture Spindles, number Spinning- Woolen Worsted - Cotton Doubling- Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Broad, 50 inches or over, reed space- On woolen goods On worsted goods New Hamp- shire. 129 $152,574 35 849, 602 94 $102, 972 76 $95,270 18 $7,702 4,888 3,551 4,042 $1,571,520 2,657 $1,131,594 1,299 $423,829 $16,097 2,574 2,725 2,822 2,829 2,767 2,508 2,516 2,526 2,569 2,645 2,712 2,685 1,269 1,237 1,302 1,341 1,330 1,217 1,273 1,254 1,290 1,339 1,349 1,390 93 .-,36 28 967 807 New Jersey. 232 7 335 13 6 8 125, 532 113, 604 5,600 3,320 3,008 2,071 1,705 33 43 $85,619 6 $23,500 37 $62, 119 35 $60, 775 2 $1, 344 3,184 2,716 2,942 $1,013,232 1,690 $685,439 1,065 $301,580 187 $26, 213 1,599 1,641 1, 726 1,735 1,712 1,701 1,672 1,689 1,689 1,683 1,712 1,727 1,021 1,035 1,060 1,076 1,066 1,072 1,059 1,070 1,075 1,058 1,088 1,102 176 1S5 189 194 196 1S5 177 180 1S5 185 197 191 176 94 124 467 650 New York. ISO 129 7 138 4 4 61,672 56, 878 4,038 210 $231, 733 16 $53, 775 194 $177, 958 177 $171,793 17 $6, 165 4,694 3,338 4,033 $1,399,527 1,913 $827, 179 1,974 $549, 253 146 $23, 095 1,875 1,708 1,842 1,885 1,874 1,878 1,897 1,902 1,958 1,996 2,064 2,077 2,024 1,919 1,997 2,052 1,981 1,940 1,901 1,927 2,064 1,990 1,946 1,947 133 135 138 140 140 144 147 150 150 152 157 160 328 31 IS 4 401 561 5 North Carolina. 196 174 14 269 2 756 1, 240 KM 25 2 88,249 81,180 1,564 4,629 876 1,425 1,080 17 $9,065 7 $3,625 10 $5,440 10 $5,440 246 170 206 $39, 094 106 $25,675 91 $12,755 9 $664 94 99 101 103 112 115 109 111 113 111 100 86 76 87 77 81 87 102 103 HIS Kis 102 78 6 6 6 4 5 13 14 11 14 10 12 Ohio. 25 5,334 5,080 254 161 57 $64,776 14 $18,800 43 $45, 976 $43, 616 6 $2,360 805 634 636 $201, 547 266 $110,850 341 $87,037 221 224 243 281 2s., 279 281 2^S 294 284 266 243 297 296 :: 399 407 344 348 357 348 326 333 301 22 28 27 30 31 29 35 34 30 30 29 29 39 12 27 126 5 54 23,953 22, 652 342 249 18 WOOL. 147 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Oregon. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Tennessee. Texas. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. West Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 29 353 79 64 10 14 51 39 16 53 29 11 832, 820 8399, 570 $143, 538 $67, 673 $15,763 $10, 050 870, 908 $37, 667 $17,440 $65,210 $30, 432 12 9 40 16 14 3 1 13 9 2 13 5 13 $8,500 $85,395 $48,580 $29, 700 $5,000 $125 820, 872 $10, 720 $3, 700 $17,660 $5,800 14 20 313 63 60 7 13 38 30 14 40 24 1 15 824,320 $314,175 $94, 958 $37, 973 $10, 763 $9, 925 $50,036 $26, 947 $13, 740 $47, 650 $24, 632 16 18 288 68 60 7 12 35 29 14 38 21 17 $23,480 $303, 299 $91, 990 $37, 973 $10, 763 89,867 $48,436 $26,447 $13, 740 $46, 780 $23,632 18 2 $840 25 $10, 876 5 $2,968 1 $58 3 $1,600 1,958 1 $500 2 $870 3 $1, 000 544 19 20 797 16, 481 3,666 1,739 159 238 452 488 974 21 594 12, 327 2,562 1, 682 154 182 1,424 352 365 781 303 22 672 13, 721 2,710 1,632 134 194 1,484 362 384 861 454 23 $208, 695 $5,091,932 $1, 104, 054 $294, 116 $40, 674 $69, 681 $677,249 $103, 773 $99, 027 $259,258 $178,736 24 423 7,588 1,814 557 76 100 1,030 214 226 396 195 25 $147, 442 $3, 305, 619 $807, 288 $148,817 $29, 066 $43,217 $435,955 $72, 954 $70, 315 8152, 060 $95,082 26 216 4,967 799 759 34 65 427 127 138 392 179 27 $56, 379 $1, 575, 655 $277, 232 $116,228 $8,388 $20, 786 $135,982 $28, 506 $26, 722 $96, 356 $63, 384 28 33 1,166 97 316 24 29 27 21 20 73 80 29 $4,874 $210, 658 $19, 534 $29, 071 $3,220 85,678 $5,312 $2, 313 $1,990 $10,842 820, 270 80 431 7,162 1,618 559 77 83 1,051 196 188 391 194 31 413 7,410 1,637 538 75 84 1,073 200 185 395 189 32 413 7,442 1,666 571 77 82 1,173 216 182 397 180 33 376 7,607 1,684 531 77 93 1,152 225 219 401 173 54 398 7, 595 1,728 650 75 105 1,079 190 233 391 175 85 405 7,498 1,696 550 75 106 966 198 240 340 159 36 432 7,488 1,631 550 75 111 962 206 235 404 215 37 ' 436 7,694 1,787 547 75 111 935 241 241 420 220 38 438 7,708 1,859 564 75 109 962 238 244 411 218 39 444 7.768 2,106 569 75 113 977 224 246 416 215 40 451 7,870 2,166 580 75 116 1,001 219 248 398 200 41 439 7,820 2,191 581 75 90 1,033 216 250 384 208 42 213 4,795 739 775 48 59 448 119 111 406 166 43 210 4,875 659 750 30 ■ 57 443 118 107 401 166 44 198 4,959 683 784 48 65 488 128 98 387 149 45 174 4,939 702 744 48 61 468 131 141 386 163 46 199 4,924 712 751 30 68 444 114 147 381 157 47 199 4,969 721 751 30 67 404 119 139 311 147 48 223 4,853 716 749 30 68 400 124 137 374 179 49 224 4,980 726 749 30 67 377 135 157 399 208 60 240 5,037 789 751 30 68 386 141 162 419 211 51 246 5,132 1,052 751 30 67 409 141 164 431 211 52 236 5,154 1,036 778 30 76 419 129 155 430 198 53 229 4,981 1,054 769 30 63 438 126 142 383 199 54 31 1,096 84 315 34 26 30 11 16 75 88 55 32 1,126 88 307 20 26 30 13 15 68 91 56 31 1,128 91 320 34 26 31 16 18 76 93 57 84 1,103 100 311 34 26 23 18 21 76 78 58 33 1,116 93 317 20 31 23 21 22 70 63 59 31 1,133 86 318 20 31 21 24 26 65 58 60 31 1,181 90 317 20 32 24 24 25 72 76 61 31 1,198 94 315 20 32 25 25 24 76 76 62 34 1,198 102 314 20 31 27 30 22 76 81 63 34 1,207 109 318 20 31 28 29 22 74 78 64 35 1,256 107 324 20 31 28 24 17 72 89 65 35 1,248 121 312 20 28 29 22 15 73 92 66 82 865 365 82 9 15 143 39 39 32 39 67 32 142 18 18 1 3 12 1 6 54 4 68 6 108 232 2,016 2,216 91 69 3 40 8 31 5 279 9 41 8 1 100 42 69 69 531- 70 110 520 606 28 33 224 53 65 115 81 71 4 12 15 10 2 5 3 1 2 72 6 428 73 51 200 31 11 10 105 28 47 46 41 74 44 315 203 9 6 4 73 3 11 49 30 75 3 35 48 980 9 220 2 99 5 4 3 124 2 69 76 17 52 53 20 77 22 12 17 13 2 2 1 1 3 3 7S 79 10 348, 169 4 124, 082 80 12, 187 38,654 2,600 6,974 38, 920 14, 322 14,180 26,904 ii,048 81 11,199 307, 118 9,000 13, 460 100,190 2,464 10,000 8,928 2,500 33, 035 2,600 6,192 37, 460 13,171 13, 520 22,760 912 10, 172 82 83 5,000 619 432 84 988 13, 317 350 1,460 1,151 660 1,878 876 85 4,414 354 86 860 8,057 87 175 1,418 1,239 94 94 670 221 242 272 276 88 172 2,379 696 602 282 143 48 73 561 5 130 157 236 71 89 9( 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2: Idaho, 1: Kansas, 1: N'orth Dakota, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wyoming, 1. 148 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: Spindles, number— Continued. Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number— Continued. Narrow, under 60 inches, reed space- On woolen goods On worsted goods Hand- On woolen or worsted goods Looms on carpets and rugs, number Ingrain- Hand Power Body Brussels- Power Formers for fur hats Braiders . Knitting machines, number Spring-beard needle- Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Latch needle- Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic... Lamb and other variety, hand . Miscellaneous expenses: Total . Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Eent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included. Contract work Material used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur- Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds Cost Mohair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds .< Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alpaca, vicuna noils, pounds Cost Mohair noils, pounds Cost Tops, pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill- Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost :.... Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Linen, pounds Cost Jute, ramie, or other of vegetable fiber, pounds Cost Shoddv made in mill for use therein, pounds Cost All other materials which are component of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Eent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds Products: Total values All-wool woolen goods, whether woolen or worsted — Wool cloths, doeskins, cassimeres, cheviots, tweeds, indigo flannels, and broadcloths, for men's wear, square yards. Value Worsted coatings, serges, and suitings, for men's wear, square yards Value Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc., for men's or women's wear, square yards. Value New Hamp- shire. 333 9346, 316 85,756 839,490 $301,070 $4, 741, 396 1, 098, 990 8306, 024 10,201,344 $2,554,191 6, 122, 739 20, 205 $5, 823 142, 414 $6, 995 5,535 2, 766, 830 $155, 910 4,181,362 $353, 251 306, 586 8102, 836 3,903 $740 12, 840 $3, 262 12, 866 $6,350 40,538 $31,031 1,991,594 $146, 657 447 $1,617 2,251,639 $260,000 $7,790 1,388,173 $52, 123 129, 990 $43, 608 $265, 354 $123,978 $3,423 $54,211 $179, 881 $76, 341 45, 000 $7,624,062 2, 033, 776 $1,290,897 115,962 $94,612 2, 167, 922 $1,570,343 New Jersey. 364 $461,513 816, 380 830,021 $415, 112 82,700,889 116, 797 $33, 318 3,883,063 $1, 603, 959 3,299,612 2,604 1,295,903 86,000 812,885 639, 663 $64,840 116, 660 $82, 192 627, 791 $127,482 3,059,698 $186, 667 836, 528 $37, 194 90, 106 $24,618 $217,272 $66, 523 $7, 600 $21,084 $70, 421 $53, 755 4, 755, 393 558, 698 $412, 320 98, 731 $78, 226 320, 876 $279, 299 New York. 216 4 ',628 7 $761,841 $38, 824 823, 906 8658, 545 $40,566 $3,499,864 800, 110 $272, 142 5, 600, 556 $1,360,111 4,342,006 8533 789,000 $41, 130 1,811 834,477 $75, 204 560,501 $101,190 842, 318 $243,402 11,500 $3,332 14,616 $6, 064 345,090 $212,310 245, 517 $259, 638 14,500 $6,900 1, 447, 301 $174, 134 9,462 $44, 447 2,346 82,957 25,000 $1,010 630, 084 $43, 697 $144, 142 973, 304 $38,100 96, 274 $27, 341 $193,351 $78, 497 $5,740 $31,352 $88, 029 845,111 $6, 715, 005 2, 568, 137 $1, 982, 270 93,075 $109, 560 144,851 $145,411 North Carolina. $14, 527 $1,443 $7, 934 $5,150 $204,961 577, 750 $147,445 403, 395 10 5,000 38,365 $6,553 25, 391 $5,078 91,763 $13,227 $320 59, 181 $1,986 5,838 $1,366 $10, 517 $5,322 $1,687 $1, 982 $1,804 $7, 274 $289,506 27, 468 $19, 772 Ohio. 75 $86, 394 82,100 87,936 $76, 358 $869, 236 7,026 $1,426 1,551,667 $375, 004 1,089,775 500 $485 1,927 $135 751 374,111 831,677 217, 940 $29,470 256, 691 $37, 953 4,233 144,200 $58, 200 64,518 $41,461 2,000 $1,000 197, 936 $39, 356 34 $25 10, 120 $1,328 897,397 $111, 069 $4,686 337,486 $14,160 46, 866 $10,865 $61, 795 $18,027 $20 $8,200 $11,234 $10, 963 2,000 $1,321,751 607, 675 $189,735 150, 000 $50,000 44,400 $26,346 WOOL. 149 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Oregon. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Tennessee. Texas. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. West Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 3 3,912 1,060 10 S 6 2 530 4 1,096 36 10 21 104 90 81 36 205 91 92 1 4 93 94 95 96 97 500 1,500 50 98 99 10« 101 20. 102 103 5 5 16 2 2 81,444,778 $117, 422 843, 379 81,014,310 8269, 667 815,874,544 13,308,519 82,035,725 11,712,697 $3,036,405 18,003,382 121,513 $12, 949 4,131 $1,444 16,876,816 $913, 216 25, 780 12, 098, 666 $838, 295 6, 107, 141 $699,095 5,230,394 $1,027,984 45,977 $8,367 35, 907 $6,661 4,000 $1,070 1,319,493 $560, 453 2,596,207 $1,767,860 3,141,273 $600, 439 9,417,582 $1,712,066 23, 022 $92, 216 18, 378 $58,373 250 $43 1,055,574 $51,057 8, 954, 396 $459, 586 $230, 521 3, 110, 845 8132, 437 693, 465 $180, 639 $697, 115 $246, 967 832, 159 $103,338 $429, 893 $138, 181 1,301,019 $26, 389, 344 1,652,012 $1,128,958 859,429 $525,090 1,403,734 $1,225,883 104 105 106 107 108 874,323 8287, 695 $28, 104 817, 010 $212,476 $30, 105 83,386,993 337,445 $115, 205 7,555,470 $1,562,307 3,877,898 $86,141 $355 88,045 $77, 741 817, 428 $17,354 $98, 541 $7,000 $10,452 881,014 875 81,554,525 341,902 8141,838 2,828,600 $702, 968 2, 173, 644 75, 058 $11,264 $22, 780 $1,770 $2, 015 $18, 126 8870 $391,659 9,000 82, 190 1,175,231 8295,664 687,759 831,649 82,488 82, 932 826,229 $104,250 81,346 89, 849 892, 680 $375 $899, 711 830, 524 109 110 85,669 868,654 $1,528 $15, 900 $2,463 $14, 891 82, 818 827, 706 111 112 113 8465,855 $874, 359 101,766 $30,783 1,421,676 $405,487 1, 269, 181 $117, 327 $121,828 8319, 313 3,000 $600 840, 959 $223,155 553, 550 $554,553 396 $140 1, 139, 089 $336, 882 803,595 114 115 116 1,997,954 $322,417 1,204,461 291,979 $52, 123 117, 848 744,469 884, 662 244,251 3,483,348 $711,265 1,817,928 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 410 $24 2,951 1,062,552 $119,130 1,112,319 $188, 020 820, 368 $281,859 124 126 206 86, 993 $8,458 73,084 $14, 183 5,247 2, 602, 988 $173, 081 487,089 $58, 036 5,000 $500 46 18,700 $1, 124 19,260 $2,896 107 53, 790 $4,804 1,761 $352 1,299 342, 273 $54, 418 822,069 $108, 943 87,223 $10, 097 93 36, 416 84,081 124, 351 823, 344 15,000 82, 175 182 72, 197 $6,734 135, 912 $19, 806 40,000 $9, 745 225 119,776 $15, 685 308, 033 $55, 612 30,248 $7,227 7,619 389,052 $38,761 103,919 $16, 380 105, 373 $30, 592 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 15,000 $3,000 771 $419 ISA 136 254, 3ii $137, 844 182,441 $66,098 497,993 $347, 110 137 138 600 $225 500 $225 330 $274 3,392 $848 65,018 811,477 139 140 270 $219 4,974 $3,488 70 $73 2,081 $1,422 141 142 143 144 20, 391 85,578 200,817 $45, 973 686, 833 $100, 497 68,000 $20,417 10,422 $2,222 214, 312 $44,837 90,220 $11,683 22,989 $5,211 6,001 $323 145 146 147 148 86 $283 1,000 $3,750 149 150 151 152 8,464 $1, 272 470, 830 835, 324 $181 376,008 $16, 931 102, 680 $30, 480 $141, 120 $79, 011 $1,051 $27, 888 $160, 833 $29,049 147, 184 85,330,550 1,735,526 81,308,525 825,253 8679,439 614,5^6 $698,244 10, 017 81, 802 20,688 $1, 522 100 $15 153 154 280, 876 $27, 157 1,325,120 $181,888 810,000 503, 842 $21, 912 50,450 819,288 $101,291 848, 909 $15 $16, 273 $42, 946 $26,981 50,000 $2,572,646 468,989 $354,199 155 166 $25, 758 10,000 $400 90 $185 $6, 626 $2,744 $188 123, 686 84,587 11,613 $3,125 $19, 695 88,694 8450 $3,615 83,356 $7, 771 157 200, 678 85,585 29, 102 84,467 840,026 820, 194 824 83,104 82,937 $11, 726 3,000 8897,824 566, 107 8361,147 878 81,000 370,095 1 8127, 927 99, 947 $3,444 65, 355 $4,097 $34,689 $14, 036 $28 $14,346 $13, 410 $18, 376 138, 129 81, 517, 194 10, 404 84,053 109, 709 $2,212 4,587 $1,792 $11,986 $6,765 201, 384 $7,188 8,451 $2,164 $14, 720 $6, 474 $10 $3, 209 $8,205 $5,632 327, i6i $12,880 28,230 $5,999 $39,848 $27,358 $932 $8,035 $4,873 $4,786 489,441 824,906 42,408 821,635 858, 227 810,854 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 $646 $2,005 $1,322 $3,487 4,740 $222,343 488 $422 84,405 $6,444 83,582 165 166 $4,409 167 168 $196, 340 26,866 $16, 302 $627,581 256,948 $236, 212 $507,300 33,385 $16, 620 1,500 8600 9,000 $3,600 $1,435,368 391, 594 $227, 515 8790,081 148,257 8150, 219 169 170 171 172 173 330 $330 1,072,946 $773, 190 154,344 $110, 041 297, 346 8179, 915 5,085 83 594 174 175 > Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Idaho, 1; Kansas, 1; North Dakota, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wyoming, 1. 150 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: New Hamp- shire. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Ohio. 176 Products— Continued. Total value — Continued. All woo! woolen goods, whether woolen or worsted— Continued. Worsted overcoatings and cloakings, for men's or women's wear, square yards. 372, 924 $198, 892 42, 021 $33, 095 177 178 179 Wool dress goods, sackings, tricots, ladies' elotri, broadcloth, and other all-wool goods for women' swear, and opera and similar flannels, square yards. 3,545,096 $1,432,033 2, 349, 657 $956, 169 217, 195 $125, 644 247, 998 $222, 725 51, 972 $17,168 7,920 84,750 600 $500 1,646 $823 200, 446 $36, 389 180 Worsted dress goods, cassimeres. serges, and other worsted goods for women's wear, and buntings, square yards. 181 18? 1,087 $807 252, 489 $81, 402 66, 875 $35, 332 6,000 $8, 000 27, 067 $9, 090 285,633 $132, 045 4,783 $3,400 183 184 Flannels for underwear, square yards 2,813 $1,125 1,718 $474 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 lq9 93, 921 $77,041 439-, 781 $138, 771 138, 768 $130, 454 712,132 $246, 317 221, 400 $40, 366 400 $180 193 191 Union, or cotton mixed, woven goods — Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, or other goods for men's wear, square yards. 1,081,060 $441, 963 52, 949 $26,860 2, 259, 929 $673, 175 622, 651 $116,837 2, 103, 591 81, 874, 030 130, 308 $102, 942 195 196 197 198 Sackings, tricots, and dress goods for women's wear, and opera and simi- lar flannels, square yards. 120, 000 $68, 000 100,460 $24, 1,00 52,500 $22,500 72, 000 $36,000 15, 000 $27, 500 221,197 $89, 773 199 Tl() "W 704 707 208 Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair, or cotton weft with warp of wool — Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cotton- warp goods for men's wear, not specified below, square yards. 988, 474 8465, 976 75, 000 $35, 000 5,475 83, 650 1,164,768 $462,331 1,087,925 $419, 025 64, 322 $64, 322 319, 212 $97, 670 7,445 $3,254 Worsted-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cotton-warp goods formen'swear, not specified below, square yards. 2, 364, 063 8930,106 213 15, 000 $4,000 4,230 $3, 140 23, 500 $3, 843 15,000 $10, 000 30,000 $6, 000 648,267 886, 166 26, 404 $8,202 Value . . 218 Worsted-filling dress goods, delaines, cassimeres, serges, mohairs, alpacas, and other stuffs, for women's wear, square yards. 91,009 $49, 752 272, 176 862, 242 591, 454 8100, 585 1,739,682 8390, 276 12, 800 83,200 551,011 $36,734 477, 856 8133, 724 1,387,015 $323, 387 432, 202 $118, 855 42, 760 $50,000 221 223 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 115, 500 $32, 580 227, 500 $44, 375 150, 000 $180, 000 263, 599 $102, 409 209, 658 $84, 623 537, 500 $215,000 32,000 $24, 000 Upholstery goods and sundries — 233 234 236 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 $1,334,658 Carpets and rugs — Carpets — Felt goods- 1,025 $963 Trimming and lining felts, felt skirts and skirting, table and piano covers, saddle felts, square yards. 2,700 $325 $8,029 Hats— 12,000 $5,400 190, 250 $89, 898 Partly manufactured products for sale- 48, 093 $22, 141 354,453 $177,581 161,638 $45, 671 491,900 $80, 490 89,204 $48, 965 300, 000 $210,000 360, 000 $105, 000 302, 853 $92, 557 1 8,000 $1,600 1,000 $500 45, 465 $23, 290 14, 475 $6,358 6,775 $3,588 m WOOL. 151 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Oregon. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Tennessee. Texas. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. West Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 1,296 $1,367 1,101 $381 1,735 $1, 490 401,230 $202, 315 2, 397, 543 81,040,031 1,890,441 8775,069 26,000 $16, 800 633, 091 $238, 201 1, 463, 544 $554, 913 173, 227 865, 959 3,723 $3, 724 143, 548 $76, 370 176 177 18, 270 $18, 270 14, 394 $9, 596 64,917 $48, 1S1 39, 151 817, 571 1,376,534 $500, 562 19, 125 $6, 700 188, 839 $56, 961 2,726 $1,363 44,970 $41, 277 179 180 181 |89 183 304, 273 890, 377 295, 797 8180, 626 5,047 $1,584 29, 686 $15, 234 7,438 82, 281 18,843 88,028 110, 000 $34, 000 30,000 89, 000 30, 000 $12, 000 6,013 $2, 725 31, 605 $15,484 362, 212 $89, 076 24, 413 $9, 599 309,412 $103, 899 351,555 $126, 273 20,218 $12,306 215, 017 $127, 175 188 189 190 191 331, 184 $236, 331 11,032,137 $3, 108, 779 2,287,661 $1,146,490 326, 393 $45,383 825, 300 $275, 105 28, 660 $12, 195 719,664 $110,918 5,299 $2, 983 99,527 $53, 701 19, 784 $21, 098 472, 732 . $286, 625 10, 052 $26, 616 804, 173 8357, 948 iq9 193 150, 000 $40,000 399 $335 1, 165, 363 $782, 578 280, 696 $213, 772 79, 686 $47,856 521, 382 $293, 822 17, 229 $9,283 669, 461 $234, 949 194 195 196 197 14, 445 893, 960 401,564 $113, 940 914, 075 $116, 099 175, 000 $25, 000 150, 000 $30, 000 198 199 62, 406 $25, 083 51,552 836, 915 3,000 $700 19, 930 $7,280 91,563 $21,331 317, 450 $84, 623 135, 020 $36, 005 47, 667 829, 164 "UO "01 1,531 8380 1,600 $1, 600 "0? 90S "04 "05 34,125 $23, 887 1, 755, 954 $444, 173 12, 960 $9,082 "ilfi "07 8, 053, 311 $2, 176, 211 10, 000 $8, 000 142, 058 $138, 141 4, 438, 883 $844, 294 609, 141 $108, 332 457, 653 $135, 288 763 $407 339,423 $155, 569 323 475 $168, 190 40 $20 "08 "09 '10 "11 278, 375 $97,431 "1? 213 "14 215 75, 765 87,534 6, 004, 325 81,878,835 1, 708, 237 $528, 885 1,639,745 $258, 378 437, 900 $57, 520 6, 665, 804 $991,634 2,291,495 $404, 727 110, 093 $33, 060 34,183 $16, 986 1,103 $582 480 $320 859 $572 825, 070 $243, 704 24, 790 $15,814 600 $240 2,750 $1,100 5,009 $1,880 •'16 '17 52, 557 $24, 088 218 "19 314 8331 72, 000 $13, 280 100 $45 ""(1 ""] 1,650 $530 35,788 $7, 299 99? | .,.)■:• 994 '»5 57,500 $23, 000 3,325 $1,416 10, 721 $10, 396 20, 319 $8, 054 3,533 $2,000 23 472 $V, 157 2,250 $980 43,606 $130, 190 346 $103 226 997 991? 99q 7,042 $3, 086 1,005 $1,512 230 931 5,200 84,400 $663, 174 2,650 $1, 265 543 $380 9^9 ■'33 934 "35 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 245 "46 38 $50 600 $300 26,182,718 $4,444,560 389, 530 $148, 048 10, 957, 382 $1,689,446 15, 947 819, 133 2, 355, 364 8362, 169 59,542 $24,216 579, 528 $258, 419 120, 540 $52, 784 17, 934 SI 0.22.1 19, 811 $12,126 95, 445 $50, 410 39, 008 $20, 013 87, 687 $46, 992 250, 000 $157, 737 6,770 $4,062 5,813 $3, 056 947 248 249 250 251 252 253 ■'51 1,187,639 $684, 011 9,959 $4, 375 977 8487 827,902 892, 165 168, 653 $67, 016 9 300 $4,050 3,000 81,200 4,980 82,125 16,700 $8,470 22,125 SS, 998 87, 873 $17,872 49, 880 $23, 769 1,500 $750 °56 258 359 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Idaho, 1- Kansas, 1; North Dakota, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wyoming, 1. 152 MANUFACTURES. Table 31.— WOOLEN GOODS: 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 267 26S 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 2S5 2.86 287 288 289 290 292 293 294 295 296 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 Products — Continued. Total value — Continued. Partly manufactured products for sale— Continued. Waste, pounds Value Shoddy, pounds Value Flocks, pounds Value Hosiery and knit goods — Hose and half hose- Woolen — Half hose, dozens ■. Value Hose, dozens Value Merino or mixed — Half hose, dozens Value Cotton- Hose, dozens Value Leggins and gaiters, dozens .' Value Gloves and mittens, dozens Value Eiderdown shawls, dozens Value Boot and shoe linings, square yards Value Jersey cloth and stockinette, square yards Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned— Engines- Steam— Number Horsepower Gas or gasoline- Number Horsepower Water wheels — Number Horsepower Electric motors- Number Horsepower Other power — Number Horsepower Rented — Electric, horsepower Other kind, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees Under 5 5 to 20 21 to 50 51 to 100 101 to 250 - 251 to 500 501 to 1 ,000 Over 1,000 - New Hamp- shire. 175, 681 $12, 187 $120, 065 81,060 87,431,699 86,067,605 40 10, 331 32 3,535 82 6,469 7 225 New Jersey. $1,832 82, 340 13 $4,755,393 $4, 513, 753 13 5,128 25 .,948 10 905 New York. 20,000 $200 $150 875 811,516 81, 730 48 $4,260,559 $3,956,999 64 8,517 49 4,133 2 36 71 4,101 4 lt',6 North Carolina. $616 16 9,506 2,567 16 253 Ohio. 7,553 $718 2,400 $240 25 $90 $52,830 $2, 541 82 , 225, 970 , 176, 666 35 1,835 1,496 15 275 WOOL. 153 BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Oregon. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Tennessee. Texas. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. West Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 300 $105 71,951 $3,442 500 $150 16,225 '8677 1,956 $265 ?R» ?61 ?fi? 963 33,820 $1, 325 3,378 $11,462 593 $2, 180 852 $1,806 80 $180 207 $1, 656 1,238 $4,641 ?64 265 ?66 767 130 8420 ?68 ■w 970 1" ?71 •}-•> V73 974 1"" 775 ''76 277 278 279 980 981 W> 983 $635 $475, 579 $371, 997 156 $23, 378, 662 $19,174,089 192 20, 718 167 17,986 1 15 73 1,653 5 167 $160 $80, 269 22 85, 263, 938 $3 955, 863 26 5,883 37 4,086 1 36 46 1,692 2 20 8100 $2, 664 45 $1,471,743 $1,464,622 50 2,712 21 2,084 1 6 32 564 1 20 $34, 267 $1, 074 $2,881 $180 23 $563, 124 $461,243 28 1,017 12 437 1 8 26 492 2 80 81,350 $30 28 $378, 786 $347, 536 33 1,158 19 921 1 6 21 191 1 40 824, 740 984 $12, 190 29 81,295,817 81,207,142 32 2,076 20 867 985 10 $867, 224 $765, 973 10 1,113 4 157 2 $35,467 881, 701 3 208 3 208 5 $216,433 $213,595 6 477 4 162 23 82,672,646 $2, 399, 009 23 4,567 15 1,810 6 8789, 331 8761, 816 7 690 6 390 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 993 ?94 12 956 8 315 32 2,699 1 48 26 1,201 7 190 1 10 295 996 297 298 299 300 5 45 31 26 301 897 38 8 302 R0R 11 1 1 193 16 28 32 47 29 26 10 4 1 51 17 16 5 5 3 4 1 3 1 6 23 6 2 28 1 7 12 6 1 1 33 7 11 8 4 2 1 32 7 9 6 1 5 4 7 304 305 2 1 306 5 3 3 11 3 1 3 2 307 3 4 1 1 1 2 7 5 308 1 3 309 1 1 310 311 1 319 313 i i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; I iaho, 1; Kansas, 1; North Dakota, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wyoming, 1. 154 MANUFACTURES. Table 32.— WORSTED GOODS: BY STATES, 1900. Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, and salesmen- Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number United States. Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including piece- workers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years — January February March April May June July August September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners- Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Finishers- Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Combing machines, number Of American manufacture Of foreign manufacture 60 $132,168,110 $6,731,982 $13,279,427 $27,026,759 $85, 129, 942 127 1,369 $2,342,218 117 $440, 492 1,252 81, 901, 726 1,130 $1,837,907 122 $63,819 49, 848 57, 008 $20, 092, 738 Connecti- cut. 10 $11, 25, 595 300, 071 25, 829 $7, 831, 109 5,584 $961,558 24, 947 24, 292 24, 876 25, 299 25, 389 25, 047 25, 161 25,616 26, 022 26, 719 26,728 27, 044 24, 100 24, 578 24, 947 25, 322 25, 691 25, 675 25, 493 25, 839 26, 072 26,882 27, 596 27, 753 5,323 5,477 6,429 5,483 5,567 5,503 5, 553 5,577 5, 700 5, 721 5, 829 5,846 1,995 4,852 1,580 7, 426 6,194 62 2,789 2,932 78 685 1,194 214 980 $5, 054, 659 $266, 900 $492, 208 $849, 305 $3, 446, 246 1 56 $121,783 14 $41,200 42 0,583 41 $79, 833 1 $750 2,434 1,905 2,198 $846, 901 1,379 $609, 947 661 $209,410 158 $27,544 1,350 1,259 1,284 1,348 1,406 1,343 l,39e 1,397 1,409 1,441 1,440 1,485 653 629 611 654 665 649 645 649 689 686 704 704 156 151 151 152 162 152 154 15;; 160 168 165 172 66 Maine. $1,486,636 $17, 500 $110,081 $250,489 $1, 108, 565 27 $26, 782 $6,000 25 $20, 782 128 178 1 72 6 $2,184 '.-155 785 875 $154, 958 420 $131, 809 91 $18, 596 339 344 315 354 360 365 367 371 378 384 371 390 393 395 403 404 408 414 423 418 428 445 457 455 83 87 85 Massachu- setts. 10 12 23 A5, 790, 300 $2,988,592 $4, 539, 224 $8, 585, 662 $29,676,822 27 503 $796, 250 35 $117,004 468 $679, 246 406 $646,037 62 $33, 209 16,414 18, 867 $7, 055, 585 9,380 $4, 177, 429 8,410 $2, 654, 009 1,077 $224,147 9,944 9 041 9,268 9,338 9,168 9,185 9,100 9,180 9,343 9,760 9,516 9,727 7,921 8,089 8,179 8,439 8,477 8,588 8,340 8,269 8,420 8,616 8,758 8,820 1,017 1,046 1,059 1,071 1,072 1,049 1,033 1,043 1,076 1, 126 1,148 1,182 482 1, 152 298 2,178 2,218 New Jer- sey. 14 4 4 $12, 080, 721 $171, 902 $1,608,247 $2, 643, 417 $7,667,155 13 112 $197,984 7 $27, 300 105 $170, 684 104 $170, 320 4,907 2,967 3,910 1, 097, 197 1,247 $513, 670 2,207 $520,486 456 $63,041 967 1,043 1,087 1,121 1,149 1,180 1,158 1,319 1,396 1,471 1, 517 1,556 1,809 1,825 1,918 1,917 2,020 2,072 2, 186 2,327 2,423 2,549 2,698 2,737 396 413 425 426 409 440 466 471 502 495 523 511 306 112 271 897 1,411 1,199 39 181 358 103 255 New York. 4 3 $8,809,390 $515, 170 $802, 700 $1,868,341 $5, 623, 179 134 $267, 367 5 $36, 095 129 , 272 123 29 121 6 115 I $227, 6 $3,577 4,028 3,276 3,726 $1,201,228 1,613 $645,539 1,737 $503, 777 376 $51,912 1,581 1,622 1, 645 1,662 1,601 1,523 1,618 1,595 1, 595 1,642 1,658 1,616 1,746 1,769 1,778 1,756 1,697 1,618 1, 680 1,686 1, 693 1,777 1,823 1,821 Pennsyl- vania. 15 $19, 396, 558 $417, 832 $1,609,471 $5,035,186 $12,334,069 35 188 $277,081 11 $34, 275 177 $242, 806 163 $236, 635 14 $6,171 11, 335 8,852 10, 201 $3,337,491 3,776 $1, 708, 640 4,596 $1,309,610 1,829 $319, 241 365 371 377 362 346 376 375 407 384 248 447 158 486 359 44 251 255 3,584 3,633 3,647 3,665 3,812 3,811 3,706 3,754 3,838 3,905 3,958 3,998 4,239 4,378 4,380 4,423 4,668 4,672 4,557 4,623 4,605 4,814 4,886 4,906 1,743 1,830 1,768 1,785 1,866 1,856 1,802 1,836 1,855 1,861 1,883 1,859 543 ,773 652 7S8 626 5 128 318 29 289 Khode Is- land. 13 11 27 $34, 949, 769 $2, 174, 879 $3, 799, 161 $7, 098, 313 $21, 877, 416 31 $139, 218 '"tl $454, 651 262 $438, 267 29 $16, 384 13,458 14, 896 $5, 537, 169 7,170 $3,200,462 6,342 $2, 104, 585 1,384 $232, 132 6,574 6,726 6,973 7,179 7, 265 6,987 7,143 7,305 7,361 7,401 7,557 All other states. 1 $4, 600, 078 $179, 207 $318, 335 $696, 046 $3,406,490 2 27 $61, 102 12 $39,400 15 $21, 702 12 $20, 522 3 $1,180 2,548 2,191 2,335 $711, 804 1,456 $397,423 213 $24, 945 608 624 637 632 02S 653 679 695 702 715 711 7,569 5, 946 ■ 703 1,393 6,087 1,406 6,236 1,442 6, 322 1,407 6,347 1,409 6,232 1,430 6,211 1,451 6,373 1,494 6,309 1,505 6,489 1,506 6,753 1,517 6,793 1,514 1,358 202 1,381 204 1,366 204 1,380 206 1,399 209 1, 353 214 1,410 219 1,390 217 1,381 222 1,369 219 1,402 224 1,424 219 373 39 937 95 287 30 2,883 44 1,120 881 13 568 10 869 25 246 270 41 50 10 220 31 These establishments are i Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed, distributed as follows: Kentucky, 1: New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 1; Vermont, 1: West Virginia, 1; Wisconsin, 2. 2 Includes items as follows; Cottfln upholstering plush, $93,000; mohair matchings, $14,127; waste, $10,293; all-cotton goods, $50,930; worsted and cotton twists $19,748. WOOL. Table 32.— WORSTED GOODS: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. 155 United States. Machinery — Continued. Spindles, number Spinning- Woolen Worsted Cotton Doubling- Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Broad, 50 inches or over, reed space — On woolen goods On worsted goods j Narrow, under 50 incnes, reed space- On woolen goods On worsted goods Hand- On woolen or worsted goods Braiders Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sun- dry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds... Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds. . Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur — Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds — Cost Mohair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Shoddv, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils, pounds. -- Cost Tops, pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill — Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost - Linen, pounds '. Cost All other materials which are components of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for; preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds Products: Total value All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted: Wool cloths, doeskins, cassimeres, cheviots, tweeds, indigo flannels, and broadcloths, for men's wear, square yards Value Worsted coatings, serges, and suitings, for men's wear, square yards Value Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc., for men's or women's wear, square yards Value Worsted overcoatings and cloakings, for men's or women's wear, square yards Value 1, 371, 026 133, 504 842,730 91,152 16, 522 282, 914 4,204 26, 372 2,240 14, 699 950 8,481 86,767,611 $286, 920 $380, 210 $5, 121, 974 8978, 507 $77, 075, 222 57, 263, 393 815, 159, 048 122, 714, 543 $29, 147, 093 103, 338, 616 1,742,573 $391, 332 1, 905, 967 $972, 207 855, 898 $79, 960 12, 079 5, 276, 751 $524,515 1,807,827 $303, 644 1, 885, 867 $558, 494 55, 679 $12, 856 5, 260, 775 $2,701,582 2, 847, 091 $1, 402, 189 18, 896, 863 $14, 704, 172 419,434 $147, 891 13,420,590 $3, 032, 039 26, 418 $144, 971 47, 533 $166, 672 1,314 $1, 052 $74, 535 13, 486, 089 $485, 397 488, 703 $221,981 $2, 627, 140 $1,226,938 $79, 338 4564, 150 $1,818,608 $527,418 3,237,131 $120, 314, 344 3, 582, 788 $2, 508, 918 50,204,572 $39, 552, 773 1,718,008 $1,705,645 Connecti- cut. 16, 690 $7,778 47,444 25,460 12,214 3,230 6,540 7110 $310, 267 $10, 016 $19, 829 $273, 235 $7, 187 $2, 971, 926 776, 154 $266, 400 2,400,394 $643,239 1, 744, 604 5 2,500 $375 116, 292 $17, 555 157, 832 $34, 580 10, 301 $6, 592 1, 737, 214 $1, 506, 184 572, 875 $114,407 134 $1, 332 219 734,431 $22, 330 21, 491 $8,199 $121, 729 $54, 894 $18, 859 $54, 788 $33, 511 $4,539,814 719, 351 $601, 636 2, 180, 270 S2, 523, 127 91, 257 $101, 751 2,800 199 $190, 380 $500 $1, 117 $188, 763 1,102,307 711, 000 $142, 200 268,500 $61,755 658, 800 129, 500 $49, 210 858,000 Massachu- setts. 33,674 263, 594 50,032 2,524 79,654 48 9,584 424 4,469 4, 691 500 $1,681,861 $46,539 $186, 366 $1,362,930 $86, 026 $25,315,707 24,850,427 $6,511,-450 39, 012, 421 $9,106,578 35,231,431 1, 562, 491 $329, 040 256, 347 $117, 991 95, 000 $45, 305 584, 172 $381, 451 69, 170 $22, 583 261,011 $10, 006 5,895 $3, 046 $25, 896 $29, 418 $10, 450 $6,500 $27, 828 $20, 679 $1, 779, 552 663,508 $364, 074 4,425 2, 562, 632 $250, 878 643, 563 $93, 891 184, 747 $55, 471 3,238 $848 1, 490, 776 $705, 605 477, 831 $280, 328 4, 870, 028 54, 257, 607 172, 488 $34, 554 2, 640, 290 $842,712 16 $96 17, 621 $63, 922 284 $229 New Jer- sey. 107, 884 4,140 Pennsyl- vania. 24,856 1,394 150 1,174 $527, 527 $7, 400 $16, 611 $459, 165 $44,351 $4,547,694 4,734,448 $1,411,072 8, 957, 098 $1, 951, 047 6,113,358 29 14,965 16, 093 $3,038 265, 000 $104,997 5,408,939 $156,422 144,241 $63, 130 $869, 968 $449, 281 $34,368 $182, 460 $761, 558 $147, 320 1, 956, 949 40,557,363 2, 094, 678 $1, 396, 451 21, 180, 544 $17,413,922 1, 365, 790 $1, 388, 555 532, 958 $300, 164 282, 500 $169, 100 258, 860 $174, 401 500 $200 338, 996 $62, 920 ',149 9,968 53, 354 250, 354 16, 175, 3, 579 22, 248 18 1,003 487 $241,410 $1,832 $20, 638 $218, 940 $3, 406, 918 504, 757 $158, 035 10,338,442 $2, 163, 772 5,209,083 $14, 737, 134 105 1 508 $37 14, 817 $3,253 380, 514 $282, 263 1,806 $4,965 $1, 317 577, 905 $23, 390 31, 393 $14, 383 $91,879 $62, 571 $4,204 $24, 892 $100, 635 $41, 562 $6, 823, 721 33, 000 $9, 530 770,128 $539, 090 965, 014 $214, 838 1,350 $3,712 15 $101 $54, 073 1, 016, 293 $39, 477 14,230 $6, 980 $235, 681 $65,628 $28, 875 $113, 721 $36, 472 $5, 958, 259 58, 462 $60, 072 3,039,235 $2,527,599 ,418 ,'619' 320 ,718 209 372 $1, 686, $116, $20, $1, 133, $416, 630 089 023 749 745 172 15, 331, $3, 619, 20, 390, $6,575, 29, 552, 613 50 $12 10 $1 855, 898 1, 223, $31, $25 52 812 543 $291 $372. 2,940: $2, 130 130! $59! 2,685 $561 5. $13, 2, 361. $101 : $190, $161, $22, $108, $126, : $22,109,392 $9, 3,831, $2, 619, Rhode Is- land. 403,017 43,888 222,182 41,120 All other states. 1 34,352 '30,'43'i 6,193 85,478 4,156 3,920 6,589 86 4,841 3,638 1,154 632 654 1,007 1 1,700 $1, 833, 985 $104, 610 $92, 150 $1,335,015 $302, 210 $21, 490, 592 9, 504, 898 $2,779,182 33,459,274 $6,771,448 20, 006, 151 582 $582 781, 618 1,852 $295, 492 "'$22,' 750 $150, 181 $122,561 $3,502,944 850, 604 $270, 814 7, 887, 537 $1,873,969 4,822,576 6,507 2,472,782 $241, 111 988,933 $181,267 1,185,349 $306,905 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operalions of individual establishments ma; distributed as follows: Kentucky, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 1; Vermont, 1; West Virginia, 1; Wisconsin, 2. not be disclosed. 2,620,226 $1,361,520 991,837 $516,863 7,296,627 $5, 378, 892 115,690 $53,576 ■ 3, 973, 373 $895,521 18, 688 $82,046 25, 143 $88,053 1,030 $823 $5,716 2, 845, 308 $121, 958 112, 939 $59, 874 $877, 948 $348, 314 $7,461 $185, 661 8516, 156 $123, 329 1, 280, 182 $33, 341, 329 658, 797 $413,229 16,629,693 $12,584,943 196, 308 $131, 470 16,690 These establisl 14, 969 $7, 769 20, 099 $11,956 K28, 951 6592. 898 2, 175, 540 $317, 809 385 $1,542 280,844 $10, 474 8, 676 $5, 372 $213, 786 $55, 681 $8,193 $117, 523 $15, 158 $5, 204, 914 9, 500 $19, 000 1, 909. 550 $980, 581 156 MANUFACTURES. Table 32.— WORSTED GOODS: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Products — Continued. Total value — Continued. All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted — Continued. Wool dress goods, sackings, tricots, ladies cloth, broadcloth, and other all-wool goods, for women's wear, and opera and similar flannels, square yards Value Worsted dress goods, cassimeres, serges, and other worsted goods, for women's wear, and buntings, square yards Value Blankets, square yards Value Woven shawls, square yards Value Union or cotton mixed woven goods: Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, or other goods for men's wear, square yards. Value Overcoatings and cloakings, square yards. . Value Sackings, tricots, and dress goods for wo- men's wear, and opera and similar flan- nels, square yards Value Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair (or cotton weft with warp of wool): Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cot- tan-warp goods, for men's wear, not speci- fied below, square yards Value Worsted-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cot- ton-warp goods, formen's wear, notspeci- fied below, square yards Value Worsted-filling dress goods, delaines, cassi- meres, serges, mohairs, alpacas, and other stuffs, for women's wear, square yards . . Value Wool-filling dress goods and repellents, square yards Value Linings, Italian cloths, and lastings, square yards Value Upholstery goods and sundries — Woolen and worsted upholstery goods, square yards Value Other upholstery goods Partly manufactured products for sale — Woolen yarn — all wool, pounds Value Worsted yarn and tops, pounds Value Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed, pounds Value Mohair and similar yarn, pounds Value Cotton yarn, pounds Value Noils, pounds Value Waste, pounds Value Flocks, pounds Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years. Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower ■> Owned— Engines — Steam, number Horsepower ; Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower ■ Electric motors, number Horsepower Other power, number Horsepower Rented— Electric, horsepower Other kind, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower .... United States. 3, 320, 974 $1, 598, 459 54,480,569 $14,994,513 187, 530 842,194 67, 902 $72, 248 1,179,014 $880,441 411, 902 $353, 864 1,071,204 $328,243 2,073,990 $1, 356, 735 10,540,927 $6,401,491 39, 611, 517 $8,466,106 347,882 $155, 042 6, 987, 330 $1, 953, 139 43, 614 $62, 130 $454, 995 3, 556, 375 $1, 052, 508 41, 659, 360 $29,358,056 2,537,303 $1, 903, 639 788, 166 $705, 211 76, 013 $19, 760 12, 052, 814 $3, 335, 251 7, 184, 821 $1, 162, 610 297, 628 $11, 783 $1, 077, 474 $793, 338 145 $113,635,037 $85,483,346 185 97, 383 73, 180 4 220 147 20, 491 26 1,151 1 5 1,801 535 260 Connecti- cut. 471, 825 $429,255 260,470 $144, 726 7,314 $5,130 63, 671 $24, 194 678, 726 $577, 010 6, 675 $6,225 65,964 $11, 937 125, 040 $21,698 4,926 $125 $93,000 10 $4, 539, 814 $3, 466, 430 10 3,949 17 1,548 16 2,346 2 55 Maine. 956,653 $539,411 483,651 $172, 326 358,500 $304, 629 260,000 $316, 800 292, 750 $64, 405 21,000 $3,780 $14, 127 2 1,579,552 1, 104, 443 11 651 630 30 Massachu- setts. 1,068,475 $580, 940 13, 026, 286 $4,038,468 1X7, 530 $42, 194 169,234 $55,061 450,000 $330,000 2, 084, 766 $1,083,222 21,794,250 $4, 128, 159 347,882 $155,042 6, 309, 534 $1,699,430 $39,025 434, 192 $162, 982 8,828,568 $4, 990, 268 878, 506 $746, 808 245,616 $102, 899 4,879,286 $1,281,606 1,185,361 $221,900 164,329 $5,768 $84, 730 34 1, 622, 603 1,535,477 44 38, 611 151 27,001 1 10 64 10, 262 15 740 New Jer- sey. 1,609,356 $773, 991 4, 368, 475 $1, 310, 543 628, 268 $157, 960 633,429 $106, 037 79, 255 $39, 627 4, 365, 683 $3,395,322 708, 793 $229, 424 692, 392 $205, 683 41,000 $1,700 $10, 293 $44, 521 10 !6, 399, 677 5,340,615 11 5,676 15 5,251 1 100 225 New York. 523, 529 $242,670 i, 125 i,375 716,334 $342, 378 4,823,470 $1,651,246 69, 584 $26, 577 980, 510 $701,166 526, 925 $165, 567 261, 804 $36, 700 13,000 $260 $59,780 $4,501,327 $3, 705, 028 7 7,265 34 :,475 3 210 14 i,310 6 265 1 5 Pennsyl- vania. 504,258 $168, 528 3, 922, 075 $1, 970, 130 1, 016, 920 $766, 743 250,540 $156, 589 901, 970 $273, 182 109, 166 $109, 166 621, 131 $323, 010 3, 577, 092 $984, 279 124, 561 $64, 806 $90, 970 2, 979, 267 $825, 705 16,424,117 $11,733,065 1, 337, 292 $1,002,022 2,984,381 $793,279 663, 581 $106,024 30,000 $3,000 $50, 930 $69, 527 $20, 271, 290 $13, 899, 165 51 14, 314 63 13, 860 70 Rhode Is- land. 9,835,726 $4,050,351 87, 902 $72, 248 78,969 $53, 323 161, 362 $197, 275 326, 665 $145, 936 6,738,436 $4, 585, 717 8, 783, 276 $1, 596, 385 36,300 $57,000 $325,000 8, 789, 306 $6, 789, 859 321,505 $164, 809 275,875 $279,287 76,013 $19, 760 2, 099, 777 $651, 720 3, 292, 631 $410,317 35,443 $699 $744, 866 $69, 357 $32,575,860 $24, 278, 180 51 22,562 18,944 45 8,108 1 5 All other states. 1 138,885 $75,000 21,847,825 $2,842,940 207, 856 $106, 856 1,233,950 $866, 737 504,938 $137,313 953,012 $156,508 8,930 $231 $19, 748 $5, 144, 914 $4, 154, 018 8 :,730 12 2,450 4 1,230 1 50 'Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed, distributed as follows: Kentucky, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 1; Vermont, 1; West Virginia, 1; Wisconsin, 2. These establishments are WOOL. 157 Table 32.— WORSTED GOODS: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. United States. Connecti- cut. Maine. Massachu- setts. New Jer- sey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. Rhode is- land. All other states. 1 Establishments classified by number of persons em- ployed, not including proprietors and firm members: 186 1 10 17 42 53 28 22 12 10 3 45 11 7 51 51 1 1 4 11 20 5 5 4 8 6 to 20 4 5 11 9 6 6 4 3 7 11 14 8 8 2 21 to 50 1 4 3 1 1 1 61 to 100 2 2 6 2 1 101 to 260 3 2 251 to 500 2 501 to 1, 000 1 2 2 Over 1 . 000 1 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follow*: Kentucky, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 1; Vermont, 1; West Virginia, 1; Wisconsin, 2. Table 33.— CARPETS AND RUGS, OTHER THAN RAG: BY STATES, 1900. 133 48 49 35 1 844, 449, 299 82,641,774 $5,717,961 $11,495,056 $24, 594, 508 111 687 52 8173,931 635 $707,467 607 $693, 632 28 $13,935 30, 175 25,734 28,411 $11, 121, 383 13, 860 $6,651,180 12,468 84, 113, 142 2,083 8357,061 13,828 13,915 13,865 13,428 13, 783 13, 837 13, 923 13, 916 14, 018 14, 048 14,100 13, 659 12,285 12, 521 12, 498 12, 082 12, 331 12, 368 12, 497 12,561 12, 604 12,641 12, 792 12, 436 1,991 2,093 2,091 2,048 2,088 2,083 2,115 2,113 2,121 2,063 2,079 2, 111 89,400,829 $614, 572 $1,503,894 $2,010,830 $5, 271, 533 1 71 $127, 264 $38,200 64 $89,064 62 $88,128 4,890 3,742 4.480 $1, 720, 289 2,022 8996, 216 1,954 8629, 638 504 894,435 2,075 2,060 1,970 1,635 2, 043 2,083 2,114 2,099 2,125 2,109 2, 123 1,825 2,058 2,077 2,003 1,563 1,859 1,986 1,987 2,043 2,088 2, 059 2,115 1,615 619 521) 505 462 Si.:: 603 506 5115 610 512 515 492 5 2 5 1 81, 487, 031 $120,015 8260, 137 $282,860 $824, 019 47 873, 197 $39, 500 $33, 697 Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Miscellaneous Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries Men — Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November December 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may are distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Colorado, 1; Connecticut, 2; Indiana, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wisconsin, 1. United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. 13 35 $32, 215 $1,482 1,290 1,124 1,171 8379, 423 759 8283, 005 884,881 86 811, 537 752 746 759 732 727 724 763 7x3 774 782 785 777 324 325 ::2l 314 319 323 329 334 327 329 337 332 80 New York. 812,870,200 8876, 306 83, 086, 323 87, 967, 608 8250, 169 10 $40,500 179 $209,669 172 $205, 782 7 83,887 9,040 7,681 8,603 $3,308,438 3,911 $1,887,556 4,112 81, 313, 904 580 8106, 978 3,873 3,903 3,899 3,896 3,904 3,944 3,946 3,949 3,969 3,967 3,996 3,691 4,002 4,050 4,090 4,142 4,081 4,201 4,200 4,172 4,171 4,181 4,162 475 .543 566 577 569 584 609 615 615 Pennsyl- vania. All other states. 1 817, 957, 607 $936,875 82,705,050 $5,294,986 89,020,696 103 336 8375, 483 S19 •, 615 16 $7, 630 13, 480 12, 166 12, 919 $5, 330, 643 $3,269,567 5,461 $1, 926, 024 850 $135, 052 6,620 6,659 6,698 6,613 6,558 6,540 6, 551 6,530 6,577 6,602 6,596 6,755 5,481 5,516 5,533 5,477 5,376 5,410 5,412 5,389 5,431 5,421 6,474 6,608 852 .xso 874 863 868 847 848 841 850 797 807 869 $2, 733, 632 $94, 006 $308,917 8820, 057 81, 510, 652 1 44 855,285 35 834,422 35 834,422 1,475 1,021 1,238 $382,590 560 $214, 836 615 8158, 695 89, 059 608 547 539 552 551 646 549 655 673 588 600 611 601 591 638 635 568 668 695 5S6 661 685 719 65 67 67 65 63 62 63 64 59 56 49 58 not be disclosed. These establishments 158 MANUFACTURES. Table 33.— CARPETS, AND RUGS, OTHER THAN RAG: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Combing machines, num ber Of American manufacture ' Of foreign manufacture Spindles, number Spinning — Woolen Worsted Cotton Doubling — Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number \\ Broad, 50 inches or over, reed space — On woolen goods On worsted goods Narrow, under 50 inches, reed space — On woolen goods On worsted goods Hand — On woolen or worsted goods Looms on carpets and rugs, number Ingrain — Hand Power Broad ingrain — Hand Power Venetian — Power Tapestry brussels — Power Tapestry velvet- Power Body brussels — Power Wilton- Power Axminster — Power Moquette — Power Wilton rug — Power Tapestry rug — Power Smyrna rug — Hand Power Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur — Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds , Cost , Mohair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alDaca, and vicuna noils, pounds cost.; Mohair noils, pounds Cost Tops, pounds . . , Cost Yarns not made in mill — Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted , pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost United States. 1,150 185 6,886 4,443 34 516 1,018 468 134 40 209, 206 97, 191 6,096 3,197 36, 658 2,228 1,757 797 17 602 295 46 10,754 92 4,354 1 246 1,094 737 544 507 (',11 150 22 955 1,358 $2,751,879 $162, 657 8178, 469 82, 096, 532 $314, 221 $27, 228, 719 51,761,523 $8, 077, 420 109, 811 826, 687 37, 560, 231 457, 476 $71,256 25,000 87, 250 5, 707, 281 $471, 104 3,813 1, 943, 942 $129, 449 744,233 $43, 555 2, 238, 946 8301,944 84,908 $3,627 1,200 $162 200, 000 $96, 000 32, 996, 316 85, 030, 654 9, 218, 267 83, 544, 860 237, 970 $38, 994 Massachu- setts. 34 302 430 701 93 161 6i i 47 29 18 50,344 10, 164 27, 352 1,872 New Jersey. 1,223 ""253 191 26 333 276 143 8427, 241 $683 $77, 957 8329, 705 818, 896 83, 989, 945 13, 746, 907 $2, 063, 995 1,242 641,460 403, 698 865, 000 2, 142, 847 $835, 863 New York. 303 137 7 10 3 1 2 3,344 752 1,728 864 "26 26 417 347 $45, 610 $970 84,766 $39, 874 663, 452 $99, 497 420, 000 91,185 $11, 912 2. 036, 980 $343, 618 37, 047 $15,501 117 216 21 625 1,307 Pennsyl- vania. 136 375 6 275 60 11 39 89, 982 26, 724 41, 620 4,224 1,944 13, 874 1, 596 602 295 34 2,238 28 287 625 432 24 10 358 150 IS 123 172 8541,841 853, 200 847, 608 8425,654 $15, 379 $7, 681, 097 23, 297, 198 $3, 875, 638 17,224,476 1,325,814 $99, 97S 2,571 1,302,482 $92, 621 6,653 $410 1, 039, 591 $151, 173 84, 908 83,627 1,594,801 $266, 998 281,830 $113, 538 316 541 162 4,167 2,024 26 247 405 64 92 17 5 12 42,926 21, 416 13, 267 573 7,626 44 733 721 12 5,843 62 3,467 1 207 80 271 266 87 168 12 385 835 $1,671,015 $107, 624 $35, 151 81, 248, 594 8279, 646 $13, 773, 788 11,458,910 $1, 686, 477 109, 811 $26, 687 8, 189, 811 457, 476 $71, 256 25, 000 $7,250 3, 825, 421 $311, 325 737, 580 $43, 145 795, 057 $85,741 1,200 $162 200, 000 $96, 000 28, 029, 987 $4, 218, 605 6, 504, 583 $2,481,729 229, 700 $37, 837 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may are distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Colorado, 1; Connecticut, 2; Indiana, 1; South Carolina. 1: Wisconsin, 1. 1, 334, 548 $201,433 251, 960 $98,229 8,270 $1,157. not be disclosed. These establishments All other states. 1 18 91 2 221 274 1 35 42 10 25 17 17 22,610 4,780 13,224 539 2 316 100 7 79 $66, 172 $180 $12,987 $52,705 $915,930 2, 595, 056 $351,813 1,629,143 464, 861 $47,889 WOOL. 159 Table 33.— CARPETS AND RUGS, OTHER THAN RAG: BY £TATES, 1900— Continued. United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. All other states. l 2, 163, 677 $250,003 1,175,131 $159, 702 2,931,326 $186,779 197, 290 $4,712 61,844 $19,413 $126, 315 $97, 556 $600 $28, 750 $101. 799 $12, 630 536, 374 $6,966,237 2, 295, 695 $976, 588 1, 812, 447 $1, 069, 050 2,536,261 $2, 143, 570 105, 665 $78, 296 891,034 $1, 259, 781 685, 229 $512, 355 164,401 $262, 118 $297, 495 52, 000 $65,000 312, 000 $93, 740 535, 722 $205, 144 31, 000 $3,100 $6,497,371 $5,117,762 6,000 23 4,690 10 , 185 2 125 432, 983 $67, 918 92, 346 $13, 929 3,091,776 $203, 673 125, 000 $6,125 208, 814 $7, 221 4,659 $1, 812 $37, 856 $18, 902 $3,565 $33, 038 $3,392 $1,522,827 28,364 $17, 367 97, 500 $15, 840 72,000 $30,240 Materials used— Continued. Total cost — Continued. Yarns not made in mill — Continued. Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Linen, pounds C03t Jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber, pounds Cost Shoddy, made in mill for use therein, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Kent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds Products: Total value All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted- Carriage robes, square yards Value Goods woven on cotton warps with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair — Carriage robes, square yards Value Upholstery goods and sundries- Woolen and worsted upholstery goods square yards Value -' ■ Other upholstery goods Carpets and rugs — Carpets — Ingrain, 2-ply, square yards Value Ingrain, 3-ply, square yards Value Ingrain art carpets, square yards Value Tapestry Brussels, running yards of 27 Inches wide Value Body Brussels, running yards of 27 inches wide Value " Tapestry, velvet, running yards of 27 inches wide Value Wilton and Wilton velvet, running yards of 27 inches wide. - Value Axminster, running yards of 27 inches wide Value Moquette, running yards of 27 inches wide Value Rugs— Tapestry, square yards Value - Wilton, square yards Value Moquette and Axminster, square yards Value Ingrain, square yards Value Smyrna carpets and rugs, square yards Value Other rugs, square yards Value Felt goods- All other felts Partly manufactured products for sale — Woolen yarn, all wool, pounds Value Worsted yarn and tops, pounds Value Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed, pounds. . Value Noils, pounds Value Waste, pounds Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned— Engines- Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number ' * Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower Rented — Other than electric, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower '- Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may are distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Colorado. 1; Connecticut, 2; Indiana, 1; South Carolina. 1: Wisconsin, 1. 19,823,561 $2,744,928 9,634 $43,455 178, 780 $250, 233 8, 388, 211 $1,164,826 38,846,413 $2, 476, 029 126,000 $6,125 $199,618 2, 696, 173 $90,271 465, 731 $103, 671 $1, 151, 726 $469, 913 $22, 881 $138,181 $366, 761 $157, 139 1,712,421 $48, 192, 351 28,364 $17, 367 667 $1,500 94,341 $44,340 $405, 244 36, 698, 292 $13, 222, 657 3,222,557 $1, 146, 273 2, 328, 906 $1,007,627 11, 649, 932 $5, 520, 665 3, 581, 991 $2, 979, 867 5, 706, 754 $3, 743, 353 4, 782, 835 $4, 030, 842 5, 074, 961 $3, 637, 001 1, 627, 410 $1, 125, 268 18, 750 $9,000 339, 784 $545, 967 327, 598 $342, 262 393, 417 $168, 324 3,651,661 $3, 680, 618 5, 111, 173 $2, 391, 434 $15, 393 1, 073, 214 $252, 857 2, 776, 929 $1,090,036 10, 000 $4,887 674, INS $120, 131 330, 351 $21, 133 82,648,205 $20, 100 114 $46, 885, 929 $40, 191, 460 127 26, 932 155 23, 091 1 35 22 3,145 5 192 469 484 3, 617, 216 $443, 351 5, 382, 255 $732, 307 16,411,276 $944, 901 13, 215, 750 $1, 939, 047 9,634 S43, 455 17ft, 780 $250, 233 1,699, 108 $252, 310 15, 784, 309 $1, 101, 507 $158, 952 929, 496 $26, 211 261, 591 $36, 684 $384,835 $113, 466 $240 $36, 995 $103, 612 $95, 560 1,176,047 $15,029,218 1, 277, 598 $49, 705 116, 137 $39, 095 $550,542 $213, 722 $22,041 $53, 510 $127, 287 $24,454 $23, 113, 058 180, 000 $108, 000 306, 407 $268, 932 12, 400 $14, 700 2, 390, 698 $892, 012 91,595 $56,411 128,734 $81, 102 6, 898, 863 $3,080,397 167, 773 $113, 216 2,448,555 $1, 676, 920 3,097,432 $1, 978, 494 3, 834, 992 $2, 607, 707 1, 627, 410 $1, 125, 268 667 $1, 500 94,341. $44,340 $405, 244 30, 469, 168 $10, 754, 090 2,598,477 $849, 559 2, 085, 326 $876, 474 2,866,622 $1, 340, 978 756, 348 $613, 633 2, 972, 534 $1, 880, 137 478, 630 $509, 637 76, 814 $136, 007 1, 007, 786 $885, 653 504, 468 $755, 927 5, 056, 577 $2, 321, 959 18, 750 $9,000 96, 869 $138, 842 37, 900 $44, 767 294,800 $122, 886 2, 139, 407 $2,039,038 $15, 393 0,732 44, 675 $10, 447 381,378 $140, 701 159, 316 $26, 619 $109, 100 250, 667 $44, 049 102, 315 88, 601 1,769 $713. 10 $4 264. $49 150 $2, $20 10 $1, 493, 136 $1,279,003 12 1,056 10 $14,867,002 $13, 385, 231 12 7,845 23 6,103 $22, 505, 237 $18, 980, 902 10, 537 10,088 9 1,660 2 449 484 393, 935 $44,609 39, 371 $6, 578 627, 726 $39, 169 82, 975 $2,422 21,500 $6,667 552, 178 $26, 267 $15, 361 $1,025 $21, 103 $1, 561, 011 1, 445, 231 $584, 127 532,485 $240, 303 114, 846 $50, 051 121, 609 $109, 448 $13, 998 642,340 $502, 239 2,700 $9,000 2,596 $4,476 47,036 $1,932 $1,523,183 $1, 428, 562 6 1,494 1 35 not be disclosed. These establishments 160 MANUFACTURES. Takle 33 -CARPETS AND RUGS, OTHER THAN RAG: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. All other states. 1 Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments 133 2 18 33 30 20 19 3 8 8 13 12 93 2 12 28 21 15 11 2 2 7 5 to 20 3 4 3 1 2 1 2 21 to 50 i 1 1 2 1 2 51 to 100 3 1 4 2 101 to 250 2 251 to 500 501 to 1,000 Over 1,000 3 1 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Colorado, 1; Connecticut, 2; Indiana, 1; South Carolina, 1; Wisconsin, 1. Table 34.— FELT GOODS: BY STATES, 1900. United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. All other states. 1 Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc- Total number Total salaries Men — Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries. Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed dur- ing each month: Men, 16 years and over- January February March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over- January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November December 7 7 22 $7,125,276 $506, 601 $1, 115, 961 $1,745,933 $3,756,781 13 136 $231,065 28 $92,110 108 $138, 955 94 $133, 278 14 $5,677 3,085 2,335 2,688 $1,024,835 1,957 $820, 637 658 $191,090 73 $13,108 1,929 1,931 1,976 1,912 1,921 1,898 1,901 2,003 2,050 2,011 1,975 1,977 659 640 665 634 654 663 672 646 662 669 662 670 69 68 69 74 70 76 73 70 74 73 82 78 1 1 5 $1,338,640 $134,400 $229,930 $324,212 ' 19 $41, 397 2 $17,000 17 $24, 397 15 $23,496 2 $901 526 346 464 $180,795 402 $165,861 47 $12,512 15 $2,422 387 379 382 395 400 443 437 403 405 402 $806, 057 $55,000 $102,000 $161,819 $487, 238 $19,650 $13,900 5 $5,750 4 $5,400 1 S350 227 190 206 $83,514 180 $77,798 26 $5,716 173 174 178 181 180 186 187 192 179 180 175 174 21 25 26 26 29 29 29 28 28 26 25 26 1 4 6 ,050 ,500 ;,534 $528, 401 $1, 114, 615 7 $2,183,1 $143, ! $73 $23, 450 32 S680 $47, $297, $228, »62, $6, 27 184 5 1,496 891 740 735 853 507 966 197 379 31 508 520 626 534 528 523 467 472 602 626 507 485 203 187 193 195 190 189 190 198 200 207 2116 207 29 31 31 32 31 32 32 31 31 31 33 32 $186, 445 $6,150 $53,800 $68,050 $58,445 4 6 $6,336 5 $6,036 80 67 75 $30,490 74 $29, 890 1 1 9 $2,611,084 $167, 551 $333, 697 $663, 451 $1,446,385 1 62 $90, 552 14 $37, 760 $52,792 43 $51, 162 5 $1, 630 1,361 992 1,208 $432, 183 794 $318, 122 387 $109,883 27 $4,178 773 782 814 740 754 773 765 789 831 844 i Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be are distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Illinois, 1; Indiana. 1; Michigan, 1; Ohio, 2; Rhode Island, 1; Wisconsin, 1; Maine, 2. 385 365 387 397 408 372 388 386 382 389 26 24 25 27 23 29 27 24 28 26 33 30 disclosed. These, establishments WOOL. Table 34.— FELT GOODS: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. 161 United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. All other states. 1 Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Men, 16 years and over : Children, under 16 years Weavers- Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Spindles, number Spinning- Woolen Doubling- Woolen Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Broad, 50 inches or over reed space — On woolen goods Narrow, under 50 inches reed space — On woolen goods On worsted goods Miscellaneous expenses: Total fient oi works Taxes, not including internal revenue Kent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hith- erto included Materials used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc. , scoured, pounds Animal hair, and fur — Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost ,. Tops, pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill — Worsted, pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Linen, pounds Cost Shoddy, made in mill for use therein, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost - Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products: Total value All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted — Wool cloths, etc., square yards Value Woolen overcoating, etc., square yards Value Wool dress goods, etc., and opera and similar flannels, square yards Value Flannels for underwear, square yards Value Blankets, square yards Value Horse blankets, square yards Value Goods woven on cotton warp, etc. — Cotton warp blankets, square yards Value Felt goods- Felt cloths, square yards Value Endless belts, square yards Value Boot and shoe lining, square yards Value Hair felting, square yards Value Trimming and lining felts, felt skirts, etc., square yards Value. i;s 4 115 118 149 95 3 302 24, 286 23, 235 1,051 284 271 12 1 $356,164 $16,140 828, 391 $311, 633 $3, 801, 028 4, 248, 880 $782,224 5, 357, 383 $1, 414, 216 6,468,097 98, 000 $33, 300 2, 721, 521 $92, 503 2,437 1, 226, 850 $77, 683 712, 373 $80, 737 2,653,590 $552,992 99, 458 $61,428 48, 530 $28,877 31, 866 $6,373 51,707 $9, 657 14 $61 17, 905 $5,538 1,248,835 $50, 098 $97,212 968,495 $51, 760 77, 553 $20, 232 $128, 296 $110, 355 $1, 976 $39,446 $91, 629 $64, 435 $6,461,691 252,840 $214, 914 3,728 $3,727 3,480 $2,057 20, 836 $7, 527 11,104 $8,339 3,500 $3, 010 52, 428 872, 661 2, 056, 002 $548, 543 1,114,357 $1, 084, 835 1, 062, 538 $540, 110 125, 000 $56,950 2,469,830 $796, 718 $67, 612 $6,080 $7,169 $54,363 $953, 203 734, 713 $143,995 680,164 $263, 092 1, 088, 649 185,707 $11,446 1,628 814, 157 $50,628 536,242 $56, 191 929, 043 $220, 900 74, 979 $48, 736 31, 866 $6,373 $55, 476 195,477 $8,955 9,982 $2, 107 $47, 870 $21,986 $9,647 $8,855 $6,947 $1, 526, 830 569, 500 $142,385 989, 717 $500,938 983, 155 $288,681 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Dlinois, 1; Indiana, 1; Michigan, 1; MON : TEXT 11 30 3,440 ::iiii 5 $17, 523 $1,070 $4,909 $11,544 $377, 312 133, 057 $73, 218 182,140 $56,288 315, 197 418 208, 800 $14, 638 $10, 327 404,430 $156,799 120 6,629 326 $114, 900 $2,500 $7, 492 $104,908 554,623 $172, 238 2, 085, 101 $534, 189 1, 835, 883 20,000 $6,000 25,920 $1, 109 329 174, 781 $9,344 64,756 $11, 363 554, 205 $100, 399 24,479 $12, 692 12 208 208 ..... $11,678 $1,200 $410 $10, 068 $88,716 155,409 $22, 397 11,330 $2,266 62,644 1, 720, 357 $41, 730 14,955 $2,819 14, 412 $3,603 $200 188,600 $9,263 4,517 $1,060 $29,083 $12,488 $601 $1,270 $5,920 $6,167 $691,203 41,301 $10, 792 22,838 $7, 027 $29, 557 $30, 804 $1, 375 $11, 687 $25, 039 $17,343 $1, 734, 136 $4,071 166,042 $4,687 $1,251 $4,499 $2,250 $5,418 $146 $160, 633 1,500 $700 3,500 $3, 010 138, 224 $65,890 626, 857 $617, 881 62, 821 $39,172 259, 200 $103, 683 545,619 941,066 $146, 869 $361, 168 Ohio, 2; Rhode Island, 1: Wisconsin, 1; Maine, 2. 125, 000 $56,950 52 60 85 74 14,009 13, 684 425 181 174 7 $144,451 $5,290 $8,411 $130, 750 ' $1,394,418 2,671,078 $370, 376 2,398,648 $568,381 3,165,724 78,000 $27,300 789, 537 $38, 219 62 28, 112 $3,073 17,485 $2,856 765, 912 $74, 894 48,530 $28, 877 36,752 $6,838 14 $61 3,493 $1,935 1,248,835 $60,098 $37,465 378,075 $18, 073 40,216 $10, 038 $20, 535 $40, 578 $14,592 $46,397 $33,832 $2, 348, 889 252,840 $214, 914 3,728 $3,727 $2,057 20, 836 $7,527 9,604 $7, 639 52,428 $72, 661 1,089,078 $236, 585 487, 500 $466,954 162 MANUFACTURES. Table 34.— FELT GOODS: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. United States. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. New York. Pennsyl- vania. All other states. 1 Products— Continued. Total value— Continued, Felt goods— Continued. 82, 261, 918 39,000 818, 400 18, 260 87, 368 2,169 $197 8834, 417 25 $3, 867, 905 $3, 416, 320 36 7,973 52 5,129 29 2,657 6 132 55 14 36 1 6 4 13 10 2 8392, 882 $471, 744 8639, 136 $758,156 Partly manufactured products for sale- 39,000 $18,400 10,000 $6,000 8,260 $1,368 2,169 $197 8201, 944 4 8602, 476 8512, 768 7 1,755 9 810 10 920 1 25 $73, 769 7 $1, 271, 640 $1, 179, 764 11 2,834 22 1,857 6 862 1 60 55 $558, 704 Comparison of products: 3 855,874 839, 805 4 622 5 557 2 65 2 $153, 683 $145,082 3 400 5 350 3 50 9 $1, 784, 232 $1,538,901 Power: 11 2,362 Owned— Engines — 11 1,555 8 760 4 47 Rented— 14 Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: 7 4 11 3 1 11 5 to 20 1 2 1 3 1 3 4 21 to 50 1 1 1 51 to 100 4 2 5 101 to 250 1 3 251 to 500 .. . 2 1 Includes states having- less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Illinois. 1; Indiana, 1; Michigan, 1; Ohio, 2; Rhode Island, 1; Wisconsin, 1; Maine, 2. 3 This item includes felt boots and shoes, $298,944; felt rugs, 83,090; felt mangle cloths, etc., $40,722; felt cord cloths and machine blankets, 8114,930; wool boots, $370,000; wool yarn spun for lining department, $6,731. Table 35.— WOOL HATS, BY STATES: 1900. Total number of establishments. . . Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership. Incorporated company Capital: Total . Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year . Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages . Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January - February March April May . June July.... August . September. October November. December . United States. Massachusetts. New York. 1 Pennsylvania. 24 4 5 16 4 i 1 2 15 2 13 5 3 $402, 082 2 8896, 852 82,050,802 $751,868 $108, 000 $17, 000 $46,500 $44. 500 8200, 582 840,000 8100,082 $60,500 $244, 620 838,500 8130, 095 $76, 025 81,497,600 $306,582 8620, 175 $570, 843 37 57 17 23 17 866, 766 $15, 459 842,462 $8, 845 7 5 $5,605 2 810, 000 816,505 50 12 , 21 17 $51, 261 $9, 954 $32, 462 $8,845 44 9 21 14 $49, 741 $9, 334 $32, 462 $7, 945 6 3 $620 $1,520 $900 896 2,912 662 1,354 1,509 529 474 506 2,108 541 930 637 $937,855 $278, 129 $403,213 $256,513 1,358 382 609 367 $727, 253 $228, 586 $319, 729 $178, 938 651 144 310 197 $195, 995 $47, 005 $81,658 $67,432 99 16 11 73 $14,607 $2, 538 $1, 926 $10, 143 1,900 398 367 344 1,200 396 451 363 1,253 395 606 352 1,333 425 651 357 1,309 362 589 35S 1,388 374 677 337 1,445 289 793 363 1,508 282 824 402 1,635 386 833 416 1,546 414 730 402 1,305 430 514 361 1,266 436 467 362 i Two establishments in New Jersey included in Pennsylvania to avoid disclosing the operations of these establishments. WOOL. Table 35.— WOOL HA1S, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. 163 Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month — Con. Women, 16 years and over- January , February March April : May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years — January February March April May June July , August September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Machinery: Sets of woolen cards .' Formers for fur hats Miscellaneous expenses: Total . Rent of works . . s*. Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Materials used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition, purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition, purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur — Buffalo, cow, and other hair and fur, pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost -. Wool hat bodies and hats in the rough, dozen Cost Fur hat bodies and hats in the rough, dozen Cost All other materials which are components of the products Soap, pounds Cost Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products: Total value Hats- Wool, dozen Value Fur, dozen Value Partly manufactured products for sale- Wool hat bodies and hats in the rough, dozen Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year - Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines- Steam, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower • - — Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors or firm members: Total number of establishments No employees Under 5 5 to 20 21 to 50 61 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 500 United States. 528 663 574 627 7m; 861 8'J5 X68 567 669 84 82 96 107 127 124 117 87 *2 217 100 140 4 8185, 644 $14, 890 88,074 $162, 680 $2,042,202 639, 211 $218, 651 2, 074, 163 $570, 322 1,898,605 121,482 $87,196 3,135 $616 862, 982 $370, 792 4,939 $13, 920 8,500 $21, 982 $474, 100 227, 833 $9, 930 1,730 $567 $108,502 $49, 670 $9, 741 $63, 193 $43, 020 $3,591,940 811,425 $3, 161, 361 43, 994 $285, 705 56, 006 $120, 262 $441 $24, 171 18 $3,234,380 $2,791,933 21 2,329 26 1,919 9 40.-) 1 5 24 1 3 1 6 3 Massachusetts. 147 145 147 149 136 141 124 124 168 160 150 147 17 17 17 17 13 13 13 13 13 14 16 17 $97,319 $1,200 $2,784 893, 335 $587, 902 60,000 $25,000 920, 738 $242, 612 771,084 61,482 842, 196 Sew York. 84,467 $47, 867 $133, 966 15,000 $550 70 $140 $49, 290 $15, 819 $2, 000 $18, 233 $10, 229 81, 103, 003 247, 163 $939, 298 20, 494 $153, 705 3,500 810,000 $1,026,841 8884, 792 4 475 4 475 165 185 213 243 260 327 439 480 481 454 226 245 116 100 60 868,296 $8,462 $2, 974 $56,860 $789,348 390, 149 892, 463 668, 344 $124, 655 443,378 1,635 $301 515, 156 $222, 682 2,676 $9, 618 8,500 $21,982 $201,316 102, 755 $4,341 1,055 $255 $32, 784 819, 022 $4,175 840, 565 $15, 189 $1, 376, 721 284,494 $1,218,498 8,500 $47,000 52, 506 $110, 262 8441 $1,376,721 $1,101,932 4 1,055 7 7X0 3 275 Pennsylvania. 1 164 168 168 171 178 159 22;: 257 256 254 191 177 64 62 63 67 76 69 80 91 88 85 66 62 50 2 $20, 029 $5,228 $2, 316 812,485 8664, 952 199, 062 $101,188 485,081 $203, 055 684, 143 60,000 $45,000 1,600 $315 263, 359 $100, 243 2,263 $4,302 $138, 818 110, 078 $5,039 605 $172 $26,428 $14,829 83,566 $4,395 $17, 602 $1,112,216. 279, 768 $1,003,565 15,000 $85,000 $23, 651 < 10 8830,818 $£05,509 13 799 15 664 6 130 1 5 15 1 2 1 6 2 2 1 > Two establishments in New Jersey included in Pennsylvania to avoid disclosing the operations of these establishments. 164 MANUFACTURES. Table 36.— CAKDING MILLS Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc. : Total'number Total salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries Men — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men 16 years and over- January February March : April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March ": April May June July August September October November ' December Children under 16 years- January February March April May June July August September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Men Women Weavers — ' Men Wumen Finishers — Men Women Children Machinery : Sets of woolen cards Combing machines, number Of American manufacture Of foreign manufacture Spindles, number Spinning- Woolen Doubling- Woolen Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Broad, 50 inches or over, reed space- On woolen goods Narrow, under 50 inches, reed space- On woolen goods Hand- On woolen or worsted goods United States. 178 51 2 8458,286 $59, 433 $98, 805 $222, 148 $77, 900 171 5 $2, 390 5 $2,390 300 249 140 $33, 106 102 $26, 168 23 $5,289 15 $1, 649 51 49 53 74 127 136 148 157 155 130 2.V.I 7 7 Alabama. 12, 025 10, 889 1,136 92 31 60 1 5 1 !8,175 £875 $750 15, 700 $850 14 Arkansas. $15,025 $1,555 $3,800 $8,800 $870 14 1 $90 4 $710 1 $140 Georgia. $7,111 $1,065 $895 $5,050 $101 1 240 240 Kentucky. $17, 067 $1, 805 $4,015 $10, 800 $447 12 1 $300 39 30 14 $2, 106 12 $1,840 1 $150 1 $116 Maine. 17 2 1 $56,483 $2, 555 $11,160 $24, 100 $18. 668 11 1 $1,000 1 $1,000 1 $1,000 40 27 13 $4,478 $3,363 4 S915 1 $200 1,797 1,467 330 17 WOOL. 165 BY STATES: 1900. Minnesota. Missouri. New York. North Caro- lina. Ohio. Pennsyl- vania. Tennessee. Vermont. Virginia. West Vir- ginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 5 5 17 13 4 16 12 4 9 8 1 3 3 26 19 7 33 26 7 8 7 1 4 3 1 12 11 1 15 12 3 11 10 1 1 2 3 4 813, 650 82, 900 84,700 85,500 $550 4 $33,455 $3,135 $7,050 819, 575 83,695 5 $22,016 $2,659 $4,172 $9,995 $5,190 18 $7,943 $865 $1, 503 $5,550 $25 4 $11, 700 $2, 000 83,100 85,800 8800 2 896, 556 $16, 667 $21, 310 843,204 815, 375 32 865,919 $8,930 $8,665 $26, 705 $21, 619 15 2 81, 000 2 81,000 2 $1,000 53 50 34 $6,861 24 $5,261 5 $1, 105 5 $505 18 18 16 20 32 32 31 29 29 29 21 16 4 4 6 7 7 7 5 5 6 6 4 4 4 4 4 6 6 6 7 7 7 6 4 4 4 1 $12,990 82,825 $6,225 83.550 $390 10 810, 740 8750 $1,875 $6,950 $1, 166 1 88,337 $987 $2, 320 $4,625 8405 8 $53, 194 $6,585 $12, 415 $27,844 86,350 11 817, 926 83,275 84,860 $8,400 $1,400 9 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 . 14 15 16 3 2 2 8600 2 $600 39 24 13 $2, 689 11 $2,339 1 $255 1 $95 4 4 2 $450 1 $350 1 $100 9 9 2 8242 2 8242 8 8 3 8649 2 8418 1 8231 20 18 11 $3,208 7 $2,580 2 $380 2 $248 5 6 6 8 10 10 6 7 7 6 8 6 1 2 1 3 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 8 7 2 $617 1 $462 10 9 3 8725 2 $675 27 26 21 $7, 318 13 85,125 7 82, 073 1 8120 10 10 10 12 15 14 16 15 15 15 12 12 7 7 7 8 9 7 7 6 7 7 7 7 6 5 3 $555 3 8555 17 1H 19 20 21 22 23 24 1 8155 1 $50 25 76 8 2 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 2 3 3 •; 1 1 27 28 ?9 5 25 22 25 25 23 6 2 2 2 3 4 3 4 6 4 3 3 1 2 2 5 5 2 2 30 1 1 1 1 l l 1 l 2 4 4 4 4 4 4 1 1 3 4 5 3 1 6 8 7 5 3 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 3 3 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 3 3 3 1 42 43 3 1 1 1 1 1 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 4 3 3 2 2 2 2 54 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 55 56 57 5K 5(i S( , lil 62 1 63 1 1 1 64 65 66 1 67 1 6f 2 37 2 2 «; 5 1 1 19 18 10 3 31 4 4 9 4 15 19 12 70 71 72 7; 484 484 534 417 117 3 809 715 94 5 1 4 200 200 544 494 50 7 4 3 4,025 3,792 233 44 16 27 1 678 580 98 450 450 538 32 1,040 146 7 2 5 472 36 4 1 3 7' 75 7f 1 4 1 3 77 ~i 3 1 7£ 8C 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1; Texas, 1. Connecticut, 1; Illinois, 1; Indiana, 1; Iowa, 1; Mississippi, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Oregon, 2; South Carolina, 166 MANUFACTURES. Table 36.— CARDING MILLS Machinery — Continued. Looms on carpets and rugs, number Ingrain, hand Power Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Materials used: Total cost * Wool- Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Materials not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Yarns not made in mill — Woolen, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Linen, pounds Cost Jute, ramie, or other of vegetable fiber, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of the product Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products: Total value All-wool woven goods, whether woolen or worsted — Wool cloths, doeskins, cassimeres, cheviots, tweeds, indigo flannels, and broadcloths, for men's wear, square yards Value Woolen overcoatings, cloakings, kerseys, etc., for men's or women's wear, square yards Value Flannels for underwear, square yards Value Blankets, square yards Value Union, or cotton mixed, woven goods — Unions, tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, or other goods, for men's wear, square yards Value Flannels for underwear, square yards Value Goods woven on cotton warps, with weft partly or wholly of wool, worsted, or hair; or cotton weft with warp of wool — Wool-filling cassimeres, doeskins, jeans, tweeds, coatings, suitings, and other cotton warp goods, for men's wear, not specified below, square yards Value Satinets and linseys, square yards Value Wool-filling dress goods and repellants, square yards Value Domett flannels and shirtings, square yards Value Cotton-warp blankets, square yards Value Carpets and rugs- Carpets — Ingrain, 2-ply, square yards Value Ingrain, 3-ply, square yards Value Partly manufactured products for sale- Woolen yarn, all wool, pounds Value Wool card rolls, pounds Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: I Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting x Total horsepower Owned — Engines- Steam , number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower Other power, horsepower United States. 1 2 510,480 83,362 $2,540 $4,578 $395, 116 1, 540, 025 $375, 469 1, 189, 727 1,554 $348 5,200 $544 925 $400 4,190 $676 50 $9 100 si ■• $50 22,716 $873 7,274 $1,936 $1,966 $5,436 $762 $4,696 $1,610 $329 $534, 512 7,238 $6, 225 100 $60 11, 356 $4,072 13, 500 $6, 535 350 $150 800 $105 50 $35 3,163 $1, 513 60 S60 207 $94 660 $420 900 $515 .543 266, 789 $127, 138 857, 296 $373, 404 $2, 391 $11, 020 214 $484, 920 $479, 850 73 1,097 1 6 165 2,174 1 5 2 Alabama. $225 $113 $47 $14, 664 99, 041 $14,011 48, 465 125 $5 •Jl:i $215 $20, 163 Arkansas. $193 $16, 148 97, 137 $15, 117 57, 675 200 847 $494 $100 $15 $21,930 44, 800 $19, 745 9 $20, 163 $19, 022 150 24 6 12li Georgia. $103 840 $7, 761 51,922 $7, 436 31, 650 50 $12 40 $13 $75 $95' $130 $11,547 600 $300 52, 577 $21, 630 11 $21,930 $24, 206 11 169 5 109 28,700 $11, 347 $200 $11, 547 $11,414 Kentucky. $161 $133 $34,827 113, 164 $33, 857 110, 703 135 $71 $415 $50 $371 $42,401 Maine. $1,174 $260 $394 $520 $48,126 148,884 $45,265 131, 075 $16 2,044 $94 1,052 $446 $893 $347 $50 $640 $293 $65, 155 4,500 $3, 300 3,300 $1,400 413 $413 57 830 150 $140 100, 366 $42, 266 20 $38, 101 23 291 13 180 15, 600 $10, 860 110, 279 $49,012 20 $65, 155 $65, 446 20 368 19 321 WOOL. 167 BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Minnesota. Missouri. New York. North Caro- lina. Ohio. Pennsyl- vania. Tennessee. Vermont. Virginia. West Vir- ginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 3 1 2 $1, 369 $260 8366 $743 $39,843 158,671 $35,492 103, 448 550 $91 200 $44 925 $400 3,445 $499 60 $9 100 $12 81 8? S3 $483 $510 8123 8198 $189 $35, 923 122, 690 $34,681 113, 640 4 $7 8729 8324 $138 $267 $19, 967 73, 259 818, 368 53,048 $51 $282 $2,219 $1,776 $233 $210 $60,747 232,410 $58,468 223,330 1,000 $250 6,000 $500 8122 $165 $70 $33 $62 $9, 935 34,120 $9, 782 32,545 $236 $75 $56 $105 $15, 258 40, 626 $15, 080 40, 626 $1,740 $125 $339 $1,276 $49, 318 184, 077 847, 221 126, 503 $314 $30 $104 $180 812, 605 78,269 $12,176 31,462 84 85 $58 ' 8425 813, 666 48, 169 $12,849 38,758 $31 $20 85, 313 18, 122 85,116 17,122 $57 $225 $4,293 21, 074 $4,025 11,287 851 $71 $6,722 18, 390 $6,526 18, 390 86 87 .88 89 90 91 9? 93 94 95 % 97 365 $71 300 $90 98 99 11X1 nil in? 103 850 400 $15 60 $15 $60 $55 104 1,275 $36 390 8136 8102 $523 845 $280 $75 838 $46, 927 2,684 $111 519 $188 870 8568 8203 8236 8140 $12 $27, 869 513 $300 895 832 83 $50 11, 195 $456 1,565 $334 $622 $570 $15 $1,053 $183 $63 $56, 266 1,*325 $1,785 100 $60 7,825 $2, 635 9,650 $4, 885 350 $150 800 8105 525 $16 636 8135 8150 8634 818 8446 8130 300 $8 438 $67 $4 1,450 $47 404 $98 $60 $905 $232 $500 $150 $15 . $69, 511 1,673 $36 374 $97 $5 885 834 $170 105 106 905 $120 185 $78 75 $11 107 108 109 8595 825 815 843 $25 810 $8,470 885 110 111 885 $10 $7 $18, 350 $105 $10 $73 $45 859 821 82 817, 946 112 113 $29 $12, 359 $3 $16, 920 900 $840 114 $6, 824 $5,984 $85,890 115 llfi 117 118 119 1,575 8665 1,206 $422 75D 8350 550 8250 i?n 121 l?? 1?3 1?4 1?5 l?ti 1?7 50 $35 128 129 2,750 81, 100 inn 131 60 $60 13? 133 150 $64 300 $180 134 135 200 8100 900 8515 543 $380 32,784 $20, 118 57, 757 $23, 781 $1,550 $142 23 $62, 869 $46, 148 26 459 9 160 136 137 138 139 1411 141 8,725 $5, 803 25,800 $12, 542 20, 170 $12, 207 79, 941 $34, 720 4,800 $3,520 43, 865 $22,550 $25 8530 14 $24, 329 822, 400 16 149 4 48 5,440 $3, 333 3,625 81,813 $416 42,000 $20, 000 164, 653 $65,476 $100 $164 31 884,042 887, 950 32 360 8 83 1 6 23 258 13, 000 $6,500 15, 230 $5,809 8,000 84,000 28,933 $13, 946 75, 170 $40, 197 33,625 $18, 014 500 $300 34, 970 $15,475 8300 14? 143 15, 475 $6, 808 16,700 $8,470 144 115 146 316 9 $6, 824 $7, 365 9 100 $9, 600 13 $43, 236 841,887 15 361 8 117 147 5 $18, 350 $18, 575 5 61 4 41 15 $40, 647 $39,270 17 287 12 190 3 85, 984 86,720 3 40 2 30 8 88,470 $8,640 8 140 3 $10, 127 $8, 650 4 40 11 $17,426 $17, 577 12 116 1 10 10 $15, 720 $18, 300 11 115 1 3 148 119 150 151 152 153 151 155 156 2 20 5 91 11 97 12 100 1 10 23 294 1 5 8 140 4 40 13 106 8 236 10 110 157 158 159 160 161 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows Texas, 1. Connecticut, 1; Illinois, 1; Indiana, 1; Iowa, 1; Mississippi, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Oregon, 2; South Carolina, 1; 168 MANUFACTURES. Table 36.— CARDING MILLS, , United States. Alabama. Arkansas. Georgia. Kentucky. Maine. 1B2 Power— Continued. Total horsepower— Continued. Rented — 4 58 45 231 98 126 6 1 163 14 15 164 IBB Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including pro- prietors and firm members: Total number of establishments 9 4 5 11 5 6 9 23 6 15 2 20 7 12 1 166 1B7 Under 5 9 IBS 5to20 169 21 to 50 • WOOL. 169 BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Minnesota. Missouri. New York. North Caro- lina. Ohio. Pennsyl- vania. Tennessee. Vermont. Virginia. West Vir- ginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 4 162 6 40 17 2 14 1 . 13 8 2 163 5 3 164 5 3 2 16 14 2 9 4 5 26 15 11 33 12 19 1 1 8 6 2 4 1 3 12 7 5 15 7 7 1 11 5 6 165 16fi 3 167 168 169 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 1; Illinois, 1; Indiana, ; Texas, 1. 1; Iowa, 1; Mississippi, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Oregon, 2; South Carolina, 170 MANUFACTURES. Table 37.— WOOL SCOURING, BY STATES: 1900. Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: * Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Nu mber Salaries _ General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number < Total salaries Men — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employ xl at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May _ June July August ' September '. October November December Women, 16 years and over — January . . .* February March April May June July August September October November December Miscellaneous expenses: Total '. Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hith- erto included Materials used: Total cost Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dvestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products: Pounds of wool scoured Amount received for wool scouring Comparison of products : Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines, steam — Number Horsepower Water wheels- Number Horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments 5 to 20 21 to 50 51 to 100 101 to 250 United States. $1,061,123 882, 950 $148, 000 $377, 576 $452, 597 11 45 $72,011 $15, 000 $57,011 $57,011 1,070 473 720 $338, 606 646 $316,924 74 $21,682 680 632 635 449 456 SIS 739 741 752 734 734 752 $102,039 $19, 450 $19, 795 $62, 794 $193,826 567, 169 $16, 763 950 $450 $66, 393 $42, 931 $1, 446 $20, 816 38, 982 $36, 045 70, 878, 519 ■':> $839, 079 $764,052 25 2,900 25 567 116 California. 2 1 $329, 668 $40, 000 $20, 000 $74,600 $195, 068 1 $11,440 9 $11, 440 $11,440 382 147 230 $107, 167 189 $93, 375 41 $13,792 216 178 146 97 67 145 255 203 222 222 250 263 23 57 58 63 56 53 63 $45, 276 $9, 920 $14,862 $20, 494 $53, 354 200,000 $3, 000 $24, 498 $10, 380 $1,390 $3, 086 $11,000 19,050,000 $293, 200 $293,200 $283, 000 6 IMS 6 485 Massachu- setts. $354, 151 $18, 750 $75, 000 $166, 500 $93, 904 20 $44,176 $8,000 17 $36, 176 17 $36, 176 416 175 298 $145, 946 297 $145,556 1 $390 326 318 272 230 198 231 2!>5 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 $30, 569 $1,655 $3, 355 $25, 559 $78, 371 265, 937 $10, 268 $21, 127 $15, 934 $1, 146 $15, 020 $1,702 $13, 174 30, 709, 844 $334, 912 5 $334, 912 $284,052 5 490 New Jersey. 1 $23, 776 $18, 476 $5,300 4 $3, 278 2 $2, 000 2 $1,278 2 $1,278 35 21 24 $12, 065 17 $8, 565 7 $3,500 15 15 13 13 12 14 IS 21 21 26 21 14 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 $2,831 $2, 200 $550 $3, 695 15, 907 $482 350 $210 $54 $1,067 $300 $1,327 $130 $125 503, 420 $32, 585 $32, 585 $33, 000 New Mexico 1 1 2 $136, 700 $4,700 $19, 000 $32, 000 $81,000 1 $2, 960 3 $2,960 $2, 960 79 53 67 $21,890 42 $17, 890 25 $4,000 32 33 40 42 47 47 47 49 46 43 27 27 20 20 20 20 27 27 27 27 o- 27 $5,500 ""$650" $4,850 $22, 930 All other states.' $13, 020 $5,750 $660 $500 $3, 000 6, 200, 000 $77, 875 $46,875 $46,000 4 185 4 185 $216, 825 $19,500 $34,000 $86,000 $77, 325 9 $10, 157 4 $5,000 5 $5,157 5 $5,157 158 77 101 $51,538 101 $51, 538 85 83 72 76 139 116 124 124 127 97 85 85 $17, 863 $5,675 $847 $11,341 $35,476 85,325 $3,013 600 $240 $7,694 $9,808 $2,419 $3, 564 $8,746 14,415,255 $151,237 $131,507 $118, 000 7 770 720 1 50 116 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Colorado. I: Connecticut, 1; Illinois, 2; Missouri, 1; Oregon, 1; Pennsylvania, 1. WOOL. Table 38.— WOOL PULLING, BY STATES: 1900. 171 Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership . Incorporated company Miscellaneous Capital: Total. Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries . .'. Men — Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year. Least number employed at any one time during the year. . : . Average number .' Wages. Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March : April May June July August September October November December Miscellaneous expenses — Total. Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included. Amount paid for contract work Materials used: Total cost Sheepskins handled, number All other materials used which are components of the product Oil, for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dye stuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies t All other materials Freight : Products: A'mount received for custom or contract work Wool pulled, pounds Value Tallow rendered, pounds Value Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines — Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower Rented — Electric, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees Under 5 5 to 20 21 to 50 51 to 100 United States. 16 11 6 1 8944,715 $104, 700 $140, 700 $91,275 $608,040 31 35 $35, 422 $8,600 27 $26,822 25 $25, 686 2 $1, 136 631 351 475 $247, 960 475 $247,950 4:;:: 441 524 491 452 467 482 482 455 4X5 502 486 $47, 395 $6,210 $6, 810 $34, 075 8300 $53, 975 103, 000 $7,006 5,000 $1,000 $7,900 $19, 832 $960 $2, 788 $8,794 $5, 695 $531,287 6,112,298 $529,287 500, 000 $2, 000 21 $372, 137 $331, 754 17 825 21 640 1 15 2 125 1 5 Missouri. $65, 420 $400 $500 $15, 120 $49,400 4 1 $1, 200 New York. 1 $1, 200 1 $1,200 71 13 33 $19, 759 33 $19,759 46 31 20 8 11 13 13 18 48 46 $4,063 $1,530 $233 $2,300 82, 956 "'$376' 8500 $1, 910 $90 $45,800 784, 000 $45, 800 1 $35, 000 $30, 000 1 55 1 $600 1 $600 79 51 59 $34, 866 59 $34, 866 50 50 61 63 65 78 82 68 5:1 48 46 46 $7,755 860 $1, 920 85,475 $300 $3, 552 81,256' $1, 565 $125 8552 $56, 731 1,024,178 $56, 731 2 $40,283 $34, 000 1 50 Pennsyl- vania. $114, 510 8222, 690 $46, 600 $20, 000 $31,400 $31, 700 $6,960 $17, 550 $29,550 $153, 440 7 9 4 $2,182 4 $2, 192 81,776 1 $416 89 85 85 $44,393 85 $44,393 85 $7,328 $2, 580 $840 $3,908 $9,231 103, 000 $4,380 82, 910 896, 314 2,071,000 $96, 314 831,012 $30, 904 2 130 2 115 1 15 All other states. 1 10 2 $542,095 $37, 700 $77, 100' $51, 645 $375,650 11 29 $31,430 $8,600 21 $22, 830 20 $22, 110 1 S720 392 202 298 $148, 932 298 $148, 932 249 256 3"6 311 282 297 306 317 306 305 325 310 $28,249 $2,040 $3, 817 $22,392 838,236 $1,000 5,000 $1,000 $7, 400 $13,447 $960 $1,745 $7, 309 $5,375 8332,442 2,233,120 $330, 442 500,000 $2, 000 15 $265, 842 $236, 850 13 Ml) 17 425 2 125 18 1 3 7 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: California, 2: Illinois, 1; Indiana, 1: Kentucky, 1; Maine, 1: Massachusetts, 2; Minnesota, 1; New Jersey, 1; Ohio, 2: Washington, 1; Wisconsin, 1. 172 MANUFACTURES. Table ii9.— SHODDY, Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership . Incorporated company Capital: Total . Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries '.'.'.'."."'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries '....'..'. Men — Number Salaries _ Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June ■. July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June 1 July August September October November December Children, under 16 years — January .' February March April , May June July A ugust September October November December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Men, 16 years and over Finishers- Men, 16 years and over Machinery: Sets of woolen cards Spindles, number Spinning— i Woolen Looms, on woolen or worsted goods, number Narrow, under 50 inches reed space — On woolen goods Miscellaneous expenses: Total. United States. Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included. Contract work 58 30 17 $5, 272, 929 S434, 675 8765, 336 81,365,925 82, 706, 993 102 139 8166,704 18 $44,462 121 $122, 242 111 $118, 506 10 $3,736 2,426 1,520 1,926 $748,948 1,425 $620,444 $124, 004 21 $4,500 1,458 1,576 1,557 1,492 1,424 1,422 1,260 1,353 1,401 1,401 1,429 1,327 503 525 528 483 491 4X5 398 464 464 356 3,288 3,288 20 20 $293, 149 $40, 130 $21, 042 $219,561 $12, 416 California. 1 1 1 $10, 225 $1, 500 $2,625 $2, 500 $3, 600 4 Connecticut. $3, 940 8 $3,940 $384 $67 $135 $494, 074 $30, 050 $66, 650 867, 651 $329, 723 13 $8,191 $8,191 8 $8,191 144 101 118 $44,163 101 $40,461 $1,402 10 $2,300 105 107 107 102 97 87 92 93 104 100 1113 288 20 I'll $33, 601 $4,345 $1,559 $18,721 $8,976 WOOL. 173 BY STATES: 1900. Massachusetts. New Jersey. New York. Ohio. Pennsylvania. Khode Island. Vermont. All other states. 1 29 4 9 6 26 9 3 9 1 20 4 7 2 1 16 10 5 4 1 2 4 2 ? 1 3 5 $769,294 3 $538, 936 5 $1,397,746 3 $285, 811 4 $329,861 $972, 070 $228,930 $245, 982 5 «82,086 $49,290 $18, 700 $120,500 883,650 86,500 $11,200 $31,200 b $188, 858 $98, 953 $45,150 $138, 000 $145, 600 $21, 700 $25, 800 $32,000 V $215,886 $128,751 $77, 152 $408, 700 $254, 181 $114,605 $15, 500 $81,000 8 $282, 466 $261, 942 $188, 859 8730, 546 8488, 639 $86, 125 $193, 482 $141,611 9 29 30 . 11 7 19 34 16 3 4 1 6 6 III 15 35 11 $34, 336 $30, 100 $6,130 $55,225 $24, 746 $3, 400 $1,000 $3,576 12 5 $5,850 25 6 $22,300 6 $16, 000 1 $312 13 14 9 7 29 34 3 1 5 15 $28,486 $7, 800 $6, 130 $39,225 $24, 746 83,400 $1,000 $3,264 16 24 9 6 23 32 3 1 5 17 $28,086 $7, 800 85,630 $37,025 $24, 110 $3,400 $1,000 $3,264 18 1 8400 449 1 $500 6 $2,200 562 2 19 20 222 173 413 156 126 172 21 234 102 166 339 322 98 70 80 22 307 156 167 474 368 131 93 104 23 $127,715 $56,027 $65, 739 8164, 579 $148, 240 $56,397 $45,345 $36, 803 24 260 128 137 229 285 127 67 83 25 $114,492 849,445 $58, 695 8102, 736 $126, 604 $55, 096 838,142 $30, 833 2b 44 28 28 245 80 4 26 18 27 $12, 794 $6, 582 $6,781 $61, 843 821,064 $1,301 $7,203 $5,034 28 3 8429 273 2 3 $572 3 $936 29 30 129 141 253 292 131 69 63 31 336 131 141 280 296 132 68 79 32 820 110 141 285 299 137 75 75 33 306 113 141 281 273 136 58 69 34 289 105 141 249 280 134 54 62 35 253 115 138 233 294 122 67 95 db 200 113 115 159 282 114 74 108 il 220 132 137 195 286 114 65 104 M 237 142 141 195 294 120 69 102 39 214 146 137 230 289 123 67 83 40 230 155 138 229 267 131 72 99 41 242 142 137 154 266 133 63 66 40 26 28 263 84 6 28 20 43 47 28 28 272 82 2 33 25 44 58 26 28 270 85 2 33 18 4b 47 29 28 270 75 2 17 7 4b 44 28 28 263 85 2 22 15 Al 41 22 28 265 80 2 20 19 48 33 25 27 182 75 2 25 21 49 46 32 29 228 76 3 25 16 6U 48 28 28 227 75 3 26 20 bl 34 28 28 262 74 4 27 20 41 31 28 261 80 6 26 24 bi 46 34 32 181 87 8 28 11 1 1 2 4 5 4 3 4 4 4 4 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 8 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 55 56 57 58 59 b0 61 b2 63 64 65 66 2 3 62 480 480 9 67 68 58 48 22 57 63 9 28 2,520 2,520 69 70 71 72 $50, 027 87,368 85,372 $37,287 825, 798 $250 81,457 823,176 8915 818, 122 82, 440 $1,134 $14, 548 $69,259 8540 85,495 $63, 224 857, 728 811,023 $3,513 $40, 667 $2, 525 $23, 828 $11,290 $824 $11, 714 $7, 609 $6, 591 82,490 $453 $3,648 73 74 75 81,168 $6,441 76 77 7S i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Georgia, 1; Illinois, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Wisconsin, 1. 174 MANUFACTURES. Tabu? 39.— SHODDY, Materials used: Total cost . . Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds .- Cost .. Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur — Camel, alpaca, and vicuna hair, pounds Cost * Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials not made in mill — Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils, pounds Cost Mohair noils, pounds Cost Cotton waste, pounds Cost Pieces, clippings, mill waste, old material, rags, etc., pounds Cost Soap, pounds Cost Oil, for repairing wool for cards or combs Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products; Total value Partly manufactured products for sale — Woolen yarn, all wool, pounds Value Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed, pounds Value Wool card rolls, pounds Value Noils, pounds Value Waste, pounds Value Shoddy, pounds Value Wool extract, pounds Value Flocks, pounds Val ue All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned — Engines — Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number ...'. Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower Rented, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees , Under 5 5 to 20 21 to 50 51 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 600 United States. 84,875,192 17, 500 $8,700 404, 849 $118, 399 242,997 2,000 $160 104, 000 $10, 285 345 172, 652 $15, 202 4,216,428 $689,412 11, 600 $3, 600 8,000 158, $4, 79, 623, $3,558, 64, $2, 440, $88, $111, $115, $6, $39, $46, $55, . $6, 730, 974 75, ;::<>, 157, $37. 5, S2, 333, $40, 1, 608, $148, 39, 014, $5,388, 4,980, $131, $41, 82 $5, 846, 380 $5, 104, 746 104 11,560 90 7,123 2 45 63 4,069 3 105 218 75 105 3 24 41 24 'J 3 1 California. $9, 156 1,200,000 $5,850 $1, 386 $1,500 $360 $17, 678 1, 150, 500 $17, 678 $17, 678 $17, 580 2 115 Connecticut. $362, 438 790,585 $50,925 5,594,984 $272,416 57, 313 $8,647 $8,393 $8, 130 $3,903 "'$16^624' $537, 733 333, 713 $40, 807 12, 500 $427 2, 860, 503 $285, 382 1,720,962 8154, 235 561, 031 $41, 748 $15, 134 $536, 997 $557, 613 7 1,294 11 610 10 684 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Georgia, 1; Illinois, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Wisconsin, 1. WOOL. 175 BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Massachusetts. New Jersey. New York. Ohio. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Vermont. All other states. 1 8685, 123 8526, 492 17,500 88,700 37,500 812, 200 55, 000 8310, 783 81,077,529 $1,069,944 8399, 126 $268, 712 $165, 889 79 80 81 7,000 82, 800 7,000 324,094 889,427 150,047 2,000 8160 1,000 835 108 53, 986 $4,793 66, 922 811, 102 3,500 $1,050 3,500 32, 755 $12, 922 27, 450 K'> 83 84 86 i 86 103,000 810,250 87 88 150 75, 000 85, 250 100,000 810,000 40 20,000 $900 47 23,666 $4,259 89 90 91 305, 500 1,261,421 8189, 715 11, 600 83, 600 1,392,000 $288, 460 300, 000 870, 000 9? 869, 210 93 94 1 95 8,000 $960 9fi 97 158,000 $4,875 1,958,053 8125, 326 98 99 11,205,073 8526, 164 2,500 865 6,933,355 8267, 001 5,200 8245 27,500 86, 024 84,660 811,665 22,940,559 8249, 411 16, 700 8636 17, 502 83,128 811,800 89, 933 8410 82, 345 812, 814 85,056 8443, 529 8, 992, 053 8866, 740 13,000 8475 102,433 812, 893 839, 390 821,910 11,871,628 $705, 764 1,950 875 123, 288 824, 272 $12, 950 816, 808 8926 $6, 124 $3, 638 88,917 SI , 448, 886 75,000 $30,000 3,311,607 8287, 800 25,000 8900 16, 000 $6,760 $10, 397 89, 727 $3,000 $2,850 $45 $7, 647 $515, 643 6,616,000 8252, 234 100 101 102 103 ! 75,207 819, 946 816, 260 826, 013 14,800 85,920 82, 595 85,678 6,299 $1,253 $4,760 $4,115 8500 82,204 8395 85,290 $232,704 104 105 106 107 108 810,285 84,107 810,273 8988,189 82, 500 86.017 84; 015 8685, 048 $7, 621 818, 900 84,083 81,478,712 $1, 125 $110 $150 8382, 852 109 110 111 112 113 114 157, 775 837, 077 115. 116 5,000 82,000 117 118 119 120 142,000 829, 950 2, 459, 233 8589, 566 100,000 810,000 4, 567, 209 8416, 105 10,000 89,000 279, 160 824, 150 5, 914, 245 $1,327,939 900,000 $126,000 1,074,810 883, 516 11,655,149 81, 282, 699 121 122 4, 543, 254 8622,454 1,922,863 8274, 069 79, 180 85, 382 1,854,820 8368, 964 17, 000 8500 908, 000 $52, 812 2, 633, 000 8323, 792 420, 000 $56, 700 1, 376, 748 $153, 899 123 124 125- 126 500,547 830, 032 835, 500 32,000 81, 920 127 128 $1, 360 $1,000 3 8382, 852 $292, 821 3 882 4 307 $4,760 836, 978 4 8169, 046 8190, 400 9 735 5 315 129 886, 284 20 8894, 775 8786, 024 29 3,622 21 1,952 1 20 SO 1,650 86, 424 7 8291, 529 8230, 509 9 699 4 400 $623 5 $1,460,712 $1, 330, 010 6 1,050 6 1,035 $50, 851 22 81, 196, 200 8942, 115 26 1,632 29 1,454 $93, 367 9 $515, 643 8482, 682 9 741 4 275 130 3 8380, 948 8276, 092 4 790 6 725 131 132 133 134 135- 136 137 138 139 1 65 6 299 1 50 5 391 1 25 60 35 9 5 510 1 65 5 420 140 141 1 15 142 143 128 40 26 144 145. 29 2 9 11 5 1 1 4 9 1 2 2 3 1 6 3 9 .146 1 6 12 6 2 1 6 1 7 i 2 14S 1 3 2 1 1 1 2 1MI 1 151 1 152 163 176 MANUFACTURES. Table 40.— FUE HATS, BY STATES: 1900. Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings .............................. Machinery, tools, and implements ................. Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women- Number '. Salaries Wage-earners, including piece workers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year. . . Average number Total wages , Men, 16 years and over — ' Average number Wages , Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, em- ployed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August , September October November December Women, 16 years and over- January February March April May June July August September October November .% December Children, under 16 years — January February March April May June July August September : October : . . November December Skilled operatives, average number: Weavers — Men, 16 years and over Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Machinery: Formers for fur hats Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry ex- penses not hitherto included Contract work United States. 171 72 30 816, 701, 308 $1,501,514 S3, 023, 693 $3,043,261 $9,132,840 208 726 76 $242,734 650 $701,264 585 $670,355 65 $30,909 22,008 16,398 18,880 $9, 119, 264 13, 187 $7,231,777 5,436 $1,840,454 257 $47, 033 12, 989 13, 229 13, 459 12, 781 12,451 12,470 13,313 14, 018 14, 101 13, 360 12, 825 13, 248 5,608 5,819 5,875 5,532 5,226 5,087 5,265 5,484 5,548 5,294 5,129 5,365 253 252 249 250 251 266 266 272 269 254 246 256 840 45 1 294 $1, 416, 737 $95, 217 $51,566 $1, 172, 011 $97, 943 Connecticut. 16 31 11 $3,197,551 $113,788 8323,388 $714, 116 $2,046,259 85 173 $172, 780 26 $39, 524 147 $133, 256 133 $125, 960 14 87,296 5,916 4,171 4,868 $2,414,561 3,405 $1, 966, 174 1,458 $447,029 5 $1,358 3,369 3,521 3,706 3,314 3,098 2,879 3,592 3,906 3,931 3,262 3,126 3,160 1,497 1,563 1,607 1,427 1,334 1,256 1,517 1,594 1,616 1,356 1,343 1,378 Massachu- setts. 81 $392, 152 $30, 864 $11, 979 $313, 683 $36,626 2 7 2 $1,467,700 $46, 356 $319, 101 $363, 939 $738, 304 18 54 $55,659 4 $6,000 50 $49,659 45 $48, 058 5 $1,601 2,380 1,377 1,823 8790, 786 976 $514,262 834 8274, 254 13 $2,270 1,025 1,060 1,054 994 860 880 916 1,047 1,076 975 891 937 1,047 1,102 1,100 1,027 842 706 676 730 720 701 636 723 New Jersey. 59 30 19 10 $2,932,311 $242, 930 $484, 751 $500, 950 $1,703,680 66 154 $186, 266 26 $55, 320 128 8130,946 117 $125, 598 11 $5,348 5,635 3,925 4,745 $2, 487, 067 3.507 $2,071,822 1,199 $405, 795 $9,450 New York. 3,274 3,335 3,358 3,440 3,470 3,432 3,547 3,735 3,692 3,771 3,488 3,540 1,124 1,170 1,186 1,205 1,200 1,155 1,180 1,249 1,283 1,263 1,170 1,202 39 40 40 39 40 41 41 96 19 $97, 787 $9, 910 $10, 567 $70, 410 $6, 900 $28, 912 $11, 622 $188, 682 $24, 782 15 $3, 050, 381 $246,000 $476, 746 $634, 112 $1, 693, 523 12 135 $224, 354 $79, 770 127 $144,584 116 $139,044 11 $5,540 4,499 3,886 4,133 $2, 079, 464 2,960 $1,566,907 1,112 $499, 772 61 $12, 785 3,002 2,979 2,999 2,736 2,719 2,992 2,961 2,988 3,005 2,973 2,975 3,192 1,137 1,155 1,147 1,031 1,012 1,146 1,078 1,092 1,102 1,114 1,136 1,193 58 68 59 61 60 62 62 62 63 62 61 60 Pennsyl- vania. 214 5 1 $300, 185 811.360 88.792 $269, 283 $10, 750 11 7 2 $5, 726, 259 $848, 940 $1, 368, 207 $736, 849 $2,772,263 22 180 $269,619 6 $54, 120 174 $215, 499 154 $206, 135 20 $9, 364 3,101 2,662 2,890 $1,187,272 2.043 $984, 782 714 $182,606 133 $19, 884 1,990 2,009 2,023 2,025 2,041 2,040 2,000 2,035 2,080 2,086 2,052 2,130 679 705 710 721 714 710 704 709 709 739 723 748 138 135 131 132 134 131 133 134 132 132 131 138 All other states. 1 135 220 31 $351,729 $9, 536 $315, 322 $19,885 4 2 2 $327, 106 $3,500 $51,500 $93, 295 $178. 811 5 30 $35, 320 $8,000 24 $27,320 20 $25,560 4 81, 760 477 377 421 $160, 114 296 $127,830 6 $1,286 329 325 319 272 263 247 297 307 317 293 293 289 124 124 125 124 124 112 110 110 118 121 121 121 $20, 886 $4,635 $1, 620 $14,631 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 1; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Missouri, 1; Ohio, 1; Rhode Island, 2; West Virginia, 1. WOOL. Table 40.— FUR HATS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. m Materials used: Total cost Animal hair and fur- Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds. Cost Yarns not made in mill- Cotton, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Fur hat bodies, and hats in the rough, dozens Cost All other materials which are components of the prod- uct Soap, poundB Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products: Total value Hats- Wool hats, dozens Value , Fur hats, dozens Value , Partly manufactured products for sale — Waste, pounds , Value Fur hat bodies and hats in the rough, dozens Value Value of all other products Received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value lor preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned— Engines- Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Water wheels, number Horsepower -. Electric motors, number Horsepower Rented — Electric horsepower Other kind, horsepower Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not Including proprietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees Under 6 : 5 to 20 21 to 50 61 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 500 601 to 1,000 Over 1,000 United States. 813, 513, 668 6, 166, 269 $6, 376, 991 2,052 83, 276 3,541 824,984 148, 212 83, 884, 680 34,065 81, 535 8656,794 8376, 366 86, 310 $72, 793 81, 144, 685 882, 268 $27, 811, 187 180 $4,320 1,882,372 825,385,506 160, 950 S3, 219 165, 010 $992, 730 $933, 493 8491, 919 146 825,505,780 822, 950, 789 131 12, 625 143 11, 670 3 38 1 25 30 782 79 131 62 171 1 22 30 33 23 32 22 6 2 Connecticut. $3,685,748 1,499,767 81,463,491 61, 726 $381, 362 $993, 708 $272, 635 $117, 839 $2,045 $24, 918 8392, 809 $36,941 $7,546,882 497, 683 $6, 543, 736 153, 188 $946, 957 83,818 $52, 371 49 $7, 163, 221 86, 359, 757 49 3,372 51 ,,216 Massachu- setts. 81, 389, 546 456, 593 $542, 035 29, 338 $139,889 $487, 573 $62, 930 $26, 316 $1, 012 $4,140 $120, 540 $5,111 $2, 630, 964 227, 032 :, 244, 941 4,322 88,273 8377,750 10 $2,500,104 82, 143, 770 835 1 10 3 150 New Jersey. $3, 636, 521 1,897,113 82,076,259 22,711 $113, 197 $954, 107 New York. $2,607,454 1,281,452 $1,163,340 8121,917 8118,302 8400 814, 983 $220,219 $17, 137 $7,211,229 590, 939 86,773,402 7,500 837, 600 $2,040 $398,287 53 $6,736,546 86,430,270 44 4,077 45 ,684 1 7 368 24, 620 $171,660 $773, 214 13,500 8560 $117, 681 865, 130 $225 $14,568 8289,665 811,411 $5, 602, 458 Pennsyl- vania. 226,061 .,052,570 160, 950 83, 219 $541,710 $4,959 10 4,781,589 4,287,820 10 1,941 16 1,816 1 20 3 101 81,866,866 817, 311 8933, 748 2,052 83,276 3,541 824, 984 6,045 $42,341 $602, 407 5,565 $225 $77, 317 $40,957 $1, 658 $11,114 $119,624 $9, 215 $4,243,352 180 $4,320 280, 880 $4,203,169 $975 $34,888 18 $3, 774, 839 $3,266,571 19 1,694 15 146 All other states. 1 $327,533 214,033 $198, 118 4,772 $34, 537 $73, 671 15,000 $750 $4,314 $7, 822 $970 83,070 $1, 828 $2,453 $576, 302 59, 777 $567, 688 87,200 81,414 5 8649, 481 8462,601 5 347 3 325 1 15 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 1; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Missouri, 1; Ohio, 1; Rhode Island, 2; West Virginia, 1. MON TEXT 12 178 MANUFACTURES. Table 41. —HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY STATES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFI- CIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. MACHINERY. Num- ber. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Knit- ting ma- chines Sewing ma- chines. Looms. Spin- dles. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. 1 2 3 4 5 6 United States . New England states- 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 »1850 921 796 359 248 197 85 $81,860,604 50, 607, 738 15, 579, 591 10,931,260 4,035,510 544, 735 2,809 1 1, 621 \v S3, 124, 798 '1,685,153 ( 2 ) h ( 2 ) 83,387 59, 588 28, 885 14, 788 9,103 2,325 $24, 358, 627 16,578,119 6, 701, 475 4,429,085 1, 661, 972 360, 336 21,154 14,846 7,517 4,252 2,780 835 53, 565 40, 826 17, 707 7,991 6,323 1,490 8,668 3,916 3,661 ■2, 545 m 1,161 1,183 592 519 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 15 16 3 ( 3 ) 3 ) ( 3 ) 89, 047 36, 327 12, 659 6,625 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 24, 535 ( 3 ) 4,569 1,668 8 133 149 1,964 438 ( 3 ) ( 3 5 521,871 389, 353 143, 023 148,385 ( 3 ) ( 3 ) 7 8 9 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 133 168 103 84 47 19, 014, 126 14, 538, 511 5, 156, 306 4, 021, 660 1, 534, 700 415 295 559, 311 315,455 15, 074 13, 208 7,818 5,280 2,165 4, 879, 179 4, 029, 429 1,918,715 1, 808, 335 487, 440 4 340 3,553 2,130 1,678 815 9,941 9,188 4,969 3,059 1,350 793 467 719 543 297 329 207 236 15 9 32,860 8,638 2,626 2,466 4,004 816 760 5 1,085 214 233, 253 147, 825 46, 047 82, 656 10 11 12 1.8 1900 1890 1880 H870 = 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 = 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 3 4 1 9,000 28, 095 500 37 257 21 7,425 28,215 801 4 5 1 31 252 20 2 126 91 3 3 1,950 14 New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts . Ehode Island . . Connecticut Middle states IS 16 17 18 22 37 24 28 12 14 10 6 7 2 54 74 57 32 15 15 16 1 3 2, 525, 286 2, 706, 065 1, 224, 000 855,460 133, 000 1,589,786 754, 882 492, 000 303, 000 21, 500 6,288,672 4,497,940 1,467,375 1,570,500 155, 200 2, 452, 044 1,728,618 6,000 133, 000 61 57 58,011 57, 611 2,492 3, 121 1,753 1,081 488 1,041 705 383 331 93 6,667 4, 562 3,411 2,415 388 1,594 1,504 39 120 790, 558 931, 519 536, 117 405, 003 76, 188 389, 667 256, 085 101, 037 90, 179 15, 792 2,091,258 1,392,630 608, 067 848, 864 94,692 469, 193 453, 679 8,400 33,200 890 1,008 540 344 138 387 262 138 89 30 1,658 1,025 786 844 166 435 332 6 37 1,514 2,037 1,09S 624 350 651 438 227 216 63 4,549 3,407 2,413 1,404 222 1,016 1,023 24 64 88 76 115 113 74 112 68 58 23, 174 3,032 992 832 348 2«,867 36, 526 17,540 17, 175 19 118 102 147 20 20 21 22 23 32 13 ' 42,024 13, 759 3 5 18 26 40 37 22 23 633 221 69 49 494 11, 076 9,584 3,805 26,300 24 94 53 25 Wi 27 28 ?9 166 113 212, 753 102, 630 460 130 212 167 39 52 38 79 3 5,003 3,344 813 1,116 1, 855 257 312 5 545 180 108, 938 40, 822 9,028 19, 331 30 31 32 33 65 34 87, 223 33, 671 144 149 9 19 10 14 3 2 1,262 755 32 33 316 6,836 15, 825 34 7 4 5 35 6 1,800 Rti 37 38 25 27 14 14 18 588 460 190 141 134 6, 149, 338 4, 822, 911 1, 966, 431 1, 169, 700 1,225,000 48,531,122 30,231,762 9,883,486 6, 873, 300 2, 476, 210 101 75 159, 300 105, 834 3,243 3,059 2,211 1,333 1,196 51,115 36, 820 18, 201 9,365 6,888 1,131,078 967, 301 664, 293 431, 089 300, 768 15, 479, 047 10, 544, 998 4,451,850 2,596,360 1,160,624 966 921 659 364 481 12, 799 9,967 5,046 2,524 1,928 2,181 2,031 1,187 751 715 32, 979 24, 076 10, 645 4,843 4,960 96 107 365 218 134 114 79 70 9 7 2,662 1,195 720 436 988 79, 536 45,068 15, 674 18, 050 39 340 293 389 9 40 41 42 43 44 1,601 1,003 1,671,494 1,029,130 5,337 2,777 2,510 1,998 731 779 378 282 116 7 3 40,407 20, 838 8,423 3,091 17, 592 3,681 906 133 121 833 213 231,594 213, 023 95,316 65, 717 45 j 46 , 47 48 49 New York New Jersey Pennsylvania.. Delaware Maryland 6 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 51890 51880 51870 51860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 242 201 75 60 22 16 15 8 4 7 319 236 106 76 103 7 30,203,640 19, 608, 331 5, 334, 876 3, 318, 700 1,102,500 1,973,482 1,352,143 804,570 575,500 477, 200 15, 743, 981 9, 121, 632 3, 743, 790 2, 979, 000 895, 460 298,511 805 471 930, 764 611,739 26, 470 19,828 7,858 3,741 2,701 1,841 1,250 1,070 722 1,491 21,540 15, 453 9, 272 4,899 2, 692 582 8, 964, 097 5, 925, 569 2, 036, 076 1,122,890 392, 924 446, 608 312, 564 239, 761 193, 200 225, 060 5, 825, 783 4,262,299 2,175,913 1,280,270 541, 116 123,103 8, 327 6,413 2,389 1,061 597 602 373 320 136 329 3,725 3,159 2,337 1,325 998 85 17,219 12, 590 4,470 1,899 2,104 1,087 760 604 271 1, 162 13, 739 10, 524 5,570 2,672 1,694 408 924 825 999 781 674 701 320 230 116 4 11,666 5,434 1,311 746 12, 282 1,953 620 78 103 20 191,582 186, 057 71,008 49, 441 50 51 52 53 61 27 73, 043 30, 036 152 117 146 315 26 33 23 13 1,335 694 343 11 382 8,408 9,548 6,048 6,480 5<1 75 138 147 55 fit! 57 58 59 688 488 638, 483 470, 455 4,076 1,770 1,365 902 31 45 1 3 3 26,120, 14,492 6,769 2,332 4,612 1,653 148 133 43 730 46 31,604 17, 418 18, 260 9,796 611 fil 62 19 14, 686 89 674 246 63 64 65 66 67 4 8 1 1 2 311,508 149,656 260 100 1,050 28 17 14,518 16,900 682 289 1 3 4 119,456 44, 566 100 60 22 2 4 526 202 1 1 96 65 612 218 70 68 69 70 2 71 1, 624 WOOL. BY STATES, ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1850-1900. 179 Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS — QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Wool in condition purchased. Yarns not made in mill. Raw cotton and cotton warp and yarn not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noi's not made in mill (pounds). Shoddy not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Dnvnestic (pounds). Merino (pounds). Woolen (pounds). Worsted (pounds). $6, 599, 865 3, 627, 245 ( 3 ) $51,071,859 35,861,585 16, 210, 951 9, 835, 823 3, 202, 317 415,113 17, 953, 907 21,639,393 8,594,895 5, 596, 965 2, 927, 626 ( 3 ) 3,446,838 2.734,304 448, 758 292,300 ( 2 ) ( s ) 14,507,069 18, 905, 089 8, 146, 137 5, 304, 656 ( 2 ) ( 3 ) 1,981,484 ( 2 ) 67, 561 ( 2 ) ( 2 i 2, 621, 893 6, 386, 370 3, 753, 566 2, 229, 777 5,823,215 4,146,035 750, 255 ( 2 ) 181,271,369 64,681,466 28,485,238 13, 652, 225 3, 892, 342 ( 2 ) 1,093,854 424,496 66, 929 i 2 j ( 2 ) 3, 770, 626 4, 735, 144 1, 523, 263 139, 857 8 895, 482, 666 67,241,013 29, 167, 227 18,411,664 7, 280, 606 1, 028, 102 1 2 3 4 6 6 1,114,174 929, 336 9, 325, 415 8, 661, 685 4, 034, 873 3, 282, 123 1,092,358 5,716,460 8, 398, 436 4, 348, 024 2, 483, 733 1,457,260 1, 408, 206 1,035,183 209, 440 141,500 4, 308, 254 7, 363, 253 4, 138, 584 2, 342, 233 141, 633 444, 321 869, 432 674, 986 315,419 1, 493, 439 1, 020, 615 106, 201 26, 589, 672 12, 214, 509 3, 977, 864 4, 033, 943 1, 693, 001 93, 741 128,525 26, 779 922, 558 1,081,598 366, 843 10, 000 17, 834, 673 16, 034, 801 7, 912, 916 6, 910, 797 2,374,242 7 8 9 in 11 6,389 1,019 10, 810 33, 839 1,800 18, 000 29, 075 2,000 29, 075 76, 603 3,000 1? 12,320 6,000 13 14 15 16 175, 118 241,201 1,319,170 1,777,595 1,249,600 881, 646 820, 271 3, 456, 174 1, 756, 332 880, 750 362, 120 640, 934 576, 669 401,333 146, 289 130, 000 1,146,940 1, 812, 076 1, 088, 684 904, 900 196, 000 735,548 788, 311 109,163 1 711,108 243,850 i 3,212,324 76,000 i 1,680,332 40, 500 1 840, 250 38,000 107, 426 96, 658 96, 500 270, 820 106, 478 2,500 3, 173, 765 841, 739 1,102,284 946,235 308, 280 2, 632, 214 666, 448 406, 539 384, 789 50, 000 13, 626, 843 4,466,466 857,700 1,849,994 148,000 4, 196, 940 3, 337, 264 668, 821 960, 998 186, 900 2, 592, 829 3,481,922 2,362,779 1,757,446 573, 794 1,834,685 1,105,968 596, 270 551, 129 102, 800 6,620,257 6,082,087 2, 483, 596 3,213,481 314, 120 2, 713, 860 2, 516, 664 36, 000 137, 000 17 4,200 5,000 18 19 ?n 338, 075 1, 115, 324 649, 004 369, 938 191,219 61,840 2, 910, 640 2, 562, 705 1, 394, 748 1, 615, 326 132, 075 1,766,831 1,618,621 14,838 68,541 21 108,006 63, 188 86,530 454,404 66 000 510 669 20, 878 46, 091 161, 145 16,882 2,525 ?.? 2,000 1,200 93 401, 333 146,289 500 24 25 ?fi 528, 103 315, 786 2,000 | 1,144,940 52,989 ! 1,759,087 7,266 , 1,081,418 25,000 1 879,900 44, 604 128, 631 456, 440 502, 511 249, 356 411,468 278, 853 88, 619 65, 075 44,500 8,000 27 ?8 79 30 31 90,900 110, 720 28,850 140, 000 706, 698 648, 311 8,989 181, 264 108, 159 22, 750 531, 778 445, 633 90,566 3? 12, 218 33 34 113, 000 113, 000 30,000 35 36 205, 658 197,422 2, 202, 640 2, 029, 921 1, 013, 949 625, 391 560,368 82, 699, 721 23, 059, 630 10,254,739 6, 505, 973 2.082,344 2, 472, 767 1, 765, 206 1,101,675 438,794 769, 140 7, 031, 403 10, 083, 681 4, 006, 871 3, 112, 622 1, 462, 866 1,181,663 532,344 126, 174 76, 000 1, 291, 104 1,232,862 975, 501 362, 794 29, 162 9,000 177, 100 50, 025 66,063 233, 282 177, 331 14, 582 3, 059, 910 2, 896, 593 1,611,341 822, 925 1, 186, 721 128, 244, 160 47, 428, 283 24,305,874 9,601,982 3,175 124, 325 21, 779 27, 517 47, 000 169, 418 10, 000 4, 043, 977 3, 771, 667 2,432,271 1,251,742 1,383,528 60,473,407 42,993,046 19,696,588 37 38 38 4C 41 4,260,577 2, 242, 276 1,381,117 1,081,363 239, 318 150, 800 6, 650, 286 9,002,218 3, 767, 553 2,961,822 934, 460 1,393,685 3,188,204 2, 327, 394 1,871,183 2,948,525 2,741,794 614, 404 685,885 241,049 40, 150 2,212,261 3,174,904 1,146,420 179, 857 42 43 67, 561 44 11,405,380 45 2, 195, 341 4,847,984 46 2, 199, 029 1, 389, 427 20,218,200 13, 669, 169 5,072,058 3,391,840 870, 479 997, 110 582, 783 258, 043 188, 030 279, 952 10, 928, 113 8, 720, 363 4, 924, 138 2, 925, 323 928, 915 209,048 6,528,329 9, 024, 692 2, 648, 969 2, 168, 822 689, 066 155, 160 404,847 175, 184 230, 000 419,800 1,347,914 654, 042 1,282,718 713,800 354, 000 710, 834 882, 065 186, 326 150,800 4,817,495 8, 142, 627 2, 362, 643 2, 018, 022 562, 040 902,234 1,034,837 538, 467 50, 600 1,585,842 695, 260 46, 169 83, 449, 895 27, 982, 069 16, 164, 505 7, 119, 839 1,348,941 2,140,832 842,202 487,026 216, 700 766, 400 40,541,727 18,488,312 7, 654, 343 2,264,943 80,000 1, 099, 817 685,885 215, 195 40, 000 2, 105, 354 3, 069, 939 1,062,011 179, 857 35, 886, 048 24,776,582 9, 899, 540 5, 528, 742 1, 914, 090 1,748,148 1, 091, 403 861, 181 568, 900 783, 466 21,896,063 16, 944, 237 8, 935, 147 5,306,738 2,114,315 429, 055 47 48 48 5(1 51 122, 374 101,146 88,068 188, 839 5,400 67, 092 216, 008 169, 784 230, 000 10,000 43,800 113,600 106, 300 1,000 232, 157 36, 629 3,100 5? 10,673 150 18, 623 15, 553 ' 53 54 6ft 56 1,884,722 741,956 582, 215 10, 469 47, 592 765, 699 643, 583 1,235,126 713, 80C 350,011 409, 163 1,985,017 1, 682, 127 1,819,183 1, 115, 863 1, 995, 905 565, 145 106, 907 86,342 68, 856 57 15, 181 58 67,561 58 60 61 32, 471 6? 6? 64 (IS 66 21,981 9,747 347, 250 87, 315 500 780 2,998 12, 409 38,488 64, 750 500 500 14, 663 14, 000 1,011,889 115, 700 514, 093 180, 823 720 1,000 6, 123 67 68 69 i 500 70 71 1 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 42.) 2 Not repoVted separately. 8 Not reported. * At the census of 1850 totals for the different states were not published, totals for the DDited States only being given. 6 No establishments reported. 6 Maryland is classed in this table as a Middle state for purposes of comparison. 180 MANUFACTURES. Table 41.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY STATES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFI- CIALS.CLERKS.ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OP WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. MACHINERY, Num- ber. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Knit- ting ma- chines. Sewing ma- chines. Looms. Spin- dles. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. 72 73 71 Southern states Virginia North Carolina. South Carolina. Georgia Kentucky Tennessee Alabama Louisiana All other South- ern states. Western states Ohio 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 71 22 1 3,522,871 647, 099 5,000 201 30 $174, 678 24, 708 6,137 1,484 4 81, 115, 356 288, 352 700 1,480 211 2 3,245 894 1,412 379 2 41 15 5,519 795 1 1,014 18 4 24,126 6,353 75 76 3 2,700 4 1, 680 4 77 7!* 1900 U890 21880 »1870 2 1860 1900 1890 = 1880 U870 2 1860 1900 21890 U880 a 1870 2 1860 1900 1890 21880 21870 21860 21900 11890 21880 21870 1860 1900 2 1890 21880 2 1870 2 1860 11900 1890 21880 2 1870 21860 '1900 1890 2 1880 21870 21860 = 1900 1890 1880 2 1870 2 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 1880 21870 21860 1900 1890 1880 1870 21860 1900 1890 1880 21870 21860 1900 1890 1880 1870 = 1860 15 978, 575 38 36,057 1,845 394,871 601 988 256 34 993 565 12, 036 79 sn 81 82 24 5 674, 869 72, 900 64 5 46,224 3,150 1,495 179 255,253 27, 260 317 19 735 105 443 55 5 1,354 136 191 2,860 512 84 85 Rfi 87 6 345, 212 15 13, 520 359 73, 872 73 158 128 785 10 5,620 88 89 90 91 16 4 928,887 121,494 46 11 39, 467 7,860 1,208 338 200, 662 64, 092 217 43 682 221 309 74 1,078 225 235 2 960 91 95 % 97 I 98 99 100 101 3 4 2,700 216, 950 4 511 1,680 72, 980 4 113 in'' 12 15, 300 228 170 581 in? 104 105 106 107 108 3 94, 373 3 2,028 409 62,8i6 22 137 250 2 128 f(W nn 111 IV in 3 106, 600 6 9,150 278 42, 691 20 258 169 1,800 114 115 116 117 118 6 7 1 378, 378 251, 732 5,000 26 5 24, 110 2,520 719 280 4 117, 718 91, 499 700 159 107 2 454 173 106 2 2 11 728 137 1 13 18 4 3,610 3,081 T>ft VI 122 123 129 146 65 23 13 10,792, 485 5,190,366 534, 799 36, 300 21,900 592 293 719, 315 315, 860 11,061 8,076 2,862 14S 46 2, 885, 045 1, 715, 340 330, 210 24, 390 12, 228 2,535 1,115 339 50 33 7,400 6,668 2,093 89 13 1,126 293 430 4 92 60 7 1 10, 261 6,056 1,609 68 1,925 72 2 5 42 11 32, 898 22, 152 1,660 12 Vf V7 24 44 23 5 11 32 10 11 1,067,937 1,071,007 187, 000 9,400 10, 900 2, 135, 916 560, 917 147, 389 56 67 55, 356 68, 134 1,413 1,831 745 22 86 2,509 815 962 354, 369 398, 496 94,858 6,250 9,264 580, 129 173,909 92, 324 154 107 53 16 23 498 131 80 1,229 1,649 574 6 • 13 1,873 683 706 30 75 118 10 8 1,147 1,574 368 7 170 4 5 30 10 3,920 2,456 60 128 Michigan Indiana Wisconsin 111 132 131 201 33 187, 574 34,435 138 1 176 28 14 4 2,828 678 521 588 6,686 3,680 920 134 9 137 138 7 9 5 5 2,728,306 716, 989 45,000 4,050 103 27 201,085 29, 721 2,016 935 284 26 703, 129 177, 798 24, 700 540 1,032 281 26 7 874 693 201 18 110 61 57 1 27 18 633 670 183 9 272 8,500 7,392 139 5 1 141 142 27 23 4 2,558,299 1,214,727 10, 010 125 57 150,209 70, 580 2,722 2,239 28 600, 495 379, 144 3,364 341 282 6 1,756 1,852 20 625 105 2 16 6 2,832 1,138 19 451 8,694 2,800 4 145 146 14 35 14 3 1, 530, 990 1,264,576 105, 800 1,800 46 74 66, 720 78, 301 1,805 1,804 707 27 494,285 466, 808 92, 885 1,800 417 279 160 4 1,233 1,479 471 21 155 46 76 2 7 14 3 1 1,975 1,525 433 19 282 3,480 5,824 680 12 148 149 150 151 48 1 11 i Included in " all other Southern states." 2 No establishments reported. WOOL. BY STATES, ARRANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1850 TO 1900— Continued. 181 Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS — QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Wool in condition purchased. Yarns not made in mill. Raw cotton and cotton warp and yarn not made in mill (pounds) . Animal hair and fur and noils not made in mill (pounds). Shoddy not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds) . Foreign (pounds). Domestic (ponnds) . Merino (pounds). Woolen (pounds. ) Worsted (pounds). $346,408 52,760 82, 798, 219 459,808 1,700 58,000 56,500 10,000 48,000 56, 500 353,580 2,000 200 1,400 72, 600 16,584,551 2,380,475 150, 007 140, 000 95,031,336 973, 136 2,600 7* 73 74 75 5,900 1,000 11, 700 119,198 797, 818 2,400 2,000 2,600 6, 234, 312 90, 694 1, 498, 066 67 78 79 80 SI 35, 920 3,097 504,027 66, 925 3, 436, 982 277, 000 20, 000 1,023,150 126, 876 R? t 83 84 85 Sfi 38,887 237, 622 1,737,039 392, 237 87 RR 89 90 91 72, 631 10, 605 757, 430 70, 697 1,180 3,707,218 486, 340 1,230,801 166, 850 <¥> 93 94 1)5 Qfi 97 9R 99 100 5,900 248,950 1,000 11,700 395, 150 101 10, 270 20,000 1,099,000 10? 103 104 105 106 107 3,422 103,893 545,400 190, 725 108 109 110 111 112 2,480 58, 202 420,000 151, 180 113 114 115 116 69, 502 33, 156 252, 372 160, 091 1,700 58,000 56,500 10,000 48,000 56, 500 350,000 60,000 370,000 651, 735 39,313 140, 000 491,932 337, 506 2, 600 117 200 1,400 118 119 120 121 878, 706 402, 873 6, 248, 504 3, 680, 462 919, 639 47, 727 21, 715 5,148,044 3, 100, 876 240,000 600 6,500 647, 515 617, 758 4,500,529 2,483,118 240,000 600 551, 811 781, 887 2, 328, 534 749, 786 43, 176 1, 308, 661 383,626 29, 650 9,852,986 2, 658, 199 201, 500 16,300 4,000 314,228 54, 922 485, 800 338, 642 10, 000 12,143,150 7,240,031 1,555,123 95,387 46, 680 122 123 124 125 126 99,411 68, H91 807, 673 914,085 241,583 10, 360 13,515 1,459,378 285, 057 226,627 140,500 359,000 15,000 4,000 125,500 355, 000 202, 934 64, 823 851, 313 241, 850 10, 600 455,569 145, 857 3,850 482, 372 296,392 6,000 5,053 70, 000 5,000 1,676,285 1,635,948 418, 825 23, 100 31, 800 2,791,257 701, 322 377, 249 127 m 129 180 6,600 1,434,998 247, 081 180,000 4,000 1,919,138 332, 955 41, 300 131 265, 124 57, 901 32, 905 25,000 1,402,093 222,081 180, 000 178,866 205, 029 121,667 164, 600 238, 822 19, 400 5,000 3,605 154, 304 30, 937 10,000 132 133 134 135 136 108, 442 70, 437 1,200,483 408, 195 103,280 2,842 1,214,122 1, 095, 253 523, 216 568,758 690, 906 526, 495 15,000 5,995 3,342 5,200 1,118,533 292, 826 30,000 300,000 26,762 92,763 143, 572 2,424,304 827,104 158, 200 5,450 137 74, 098 76, 300 2,575 13R 139 140 141 223, 216 102, 727 1,176,146 899, 371 9,125 799, 357 581, 042 76,394 20,000 722, 963 561, 042 109, 643 276, 286 886, 786 7,100 277, 930 84,047 700 1,656,901 267,906 5, 265 11,060 54, 833 131,213 2,486,813 1, 635, 641 18, 817 142 143 144 145 146 126,332 68,123 1,261,242 980,780 290, 895 5,775 1,514,400 818, 500 60, 000 600 1, 514, 400 818,500 60,000 600 10,500 109, 600 251,020 226,800 5,100 215, 700 72, 480 10, 000 4, 140, 150 1, 348, 620 112, 900 100 111,500 27, 920 2,145,429 1,990,035 484, 124 8,800 147 17,500 148 149 150 151 8 Includes establishmeB ts, distributee as follows: 1900— Alabarr. a, 1; Louisi ma, 1; Mies issippi, 1; T 3xas, 1; West Virginia, 2. 1890— Florida , 1; Kentuckj , 2; Virginia, 2; West Virginia, 2. 1880— West Virginia, 1. 182 MANUFACTURES. Table 41.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: COMPARATIVE SUMMARY STATES. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFI- CIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. MACHINERY. Num- ber. Salaries. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren under 16 years. Cards. Comb- ing ma- chines. Knit- ting ma- chines. Sewing ma- chines. Looms. Spin- dles. Aver- age num- ber. Wages. 152 153 Western states — Continued . Minnesota 1900 1890 1880 1870 H860 nsoo 1890 1880 1870 U860 2 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1900 1890 U880 '1870 U860 1900 «1890 U880 U870 U860 1900 1890 U880 U870 'I860 8 3 1 1 484, 004 247, 498 8,000 150 21 10 26, 657 15,356 293 119 12 1 77, 589 31,000 2,819 51 17 8 1 206 102 4 36 3 iie 152 10 94 1,418 154 2 1 1 155 15(5 157 1 158 Missouri Utah 3 3 2 8,950 2,200 5,200 2 820 7 6 6 1,730 460 1,200 1 3 3 6 3 3 14 7 159 ISO 161 1 1'" 16? 1 16?, 7 4 7 2 5 6 S3, 247 29, 400 15, 700 11,000 52, 550 33, 370 8 6,188 117 118 61 10 91 65 28,289 19,300 15, 600 2,964 21, 699 13, 950 1 3 19 10 15 116 114 41 145 68 33 164 1 1 165 166 .. i 167 13 5 5,260 3,070 72 60 4 5 101 73 20 16S California All other West- ern states. 3 169 170 1 171 I 17? 3 89, 160 10 12, 160 79 27,880 6 66 7 82 43 I 17?. 174 175 176 177 178 9 7 145, 323 49, 085 17 10 14,294 9,255 133 144 25,570 44, 216 21 16 91 128 21 1 187 87 5 200 171 186 181 1 No establishments reported. 2 Included in " all other Western states." a Includes establishments, distributed n* follows: rado, 2; Kansas, 1; Nebraska, 1; Washington, 1. 1900 — Idaho, 1; Iowa, 2; Kansas,!; Missouri, 2; Montana, 1; Nebraska, 1; Oregon, 1. 1890 — California, 2; Colo- WOOL. BY STATES, AERANGED GEOGRAPHICALLY, 1850-1900— Continued. 183 Miscellane- ous ex- penses. Cost of ma- terials used. PRINCIPAL MATERIALS — QUANTITIES CONSUMED. Value of products. Wool in condition purchased. Yarns not made in mill. Raw cotton and cotton warp and yarn not made in mill (pounds). Animal hair and fur and noils not made in mil (pounds). Shoddy not made in mill (pounds). Total (pounds). Foreign (pounds). Domestic (pounds). Merino (pounds). Woolen (pounds). Worsted (pounds). 831, 470 24,345 $197, 184 87, 662 5,000 200 37, 667 37, 667 30, 000 71,043 64, 000 5,000 200 54,098 41,000 400 339, 232 42,000 305 $410,092 183, 743 10,000 500 1V> 153 l r i4 155 156 157 419 1,975 1,554 1,510 1,275 1,536 300 3,000 6,763 2,908 2,887 158 151 600 160 161 162 3,803 30, 524 41, 575 27,040 8,200 24, 184 25, 475 30,325 36,600 24, 400 37,500 11,300 15, 600 81, 445 85,000 54, 650 14,880 66,357 53, 660 163 4,500 164 165 166 4,577 2,146 3,000 3,000 11, 625 31,375, 10,460 2,500 15, 700 500 167 168 :m 17(1 171 10, 570 71,751 4,868 14, 481 48,487 30,020 126, 980 17? 173 174 175 I 176 9,564 3,981 60,463 47, 338 4,000 4,000 29,000 16, 675 1,600 15,000 150, 940 36,500 2,400 115, 633 126, 470 177 178 179 180 181 1 184 MANUFACTURES. Table 42.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: United States. California. Connecticut. Delaware. Georgia. 1 921 353 252 312 4 881,860,604 83,367,762 89,556,726 $24,036,431 844, 899, 685 776 2,809 83,124,798 439 8763, 316 2,370 $2,361,482 1,965 82, 188, 207 405 8173,275 95, 726 71,829 83,387 824,358,627 21,154 88,890,728 53, 565 $14,243,808 8,668 $1,224,091 19, 995 20, 902 21, 310 21, 669 21, 718 21, 393 21, 062 21, 033 21, 183 21, 565 21,430 20, 698 51, 125 52, 499 54, 352 55, 419 64,873 53, 865 62, 485 52,444 53,427 54, 659 54,468 53, 174 8,510 8,608 8,820 8,973 9,053 8,658 8,394 8,474 8,566 8,546 8,763 8,661 1,624 273 92 4,615 11,482 1,501 2,427 16,502 950 1,161 15 8 7 521,871 290, 366 14, 064 205, 742 3 25 6 2 17 7 2 16 2 1 13 ? Character of organization: ^ 1 2 4 5 S fi Capital: Total 889, 160 86, 149, 338 8160,000 $632, 590 $1,306,134 $4,050,614 12 101 $159, 300 31 $69, 050 70 $90, 250 60 884, 864 10 85,386 3,469 2,978 3,243 81,131,078 966 8447,414 2,181 $666, 597 96 $17, 067 923 938 980 979 972 972 945 966 974 984 985 973 2,062 2,139 2,185 2,199 2,227 2,189 2,111 2,182 2,237 2,230 2,226 2,182 89 91 97 97 101 99 95 99 96 92 100 99 142 $298, 511 $9,000 $25, 803 $162, 785 $100, 923 2 19 814,686 8 $9,200 11 85,486 6 83,386 5 $2,100 713 511 582 $123, 103 85 $25,390 408 $84,307 89 $13,406 80 77 87 85 88 84 85 85 88 88 88 85 424 399 430 405 392 367 370 366 414 449 448 440 70 84 95 87 88 87 77 85 99 97 99 94 $928,887 $21,836 $85,012 8416, 329 $405,710 7 8 84,000 817, 910 $67,250 9 10 11 1? Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: 10 $12,160 2 $4,800 8 $7, 360 7 $6,560 1 $800 94 58 79 $27, 880 6 83,200 66 $23,500 7 81, 180 6 5 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 55 52 67 66 67 56 65 70 72 71 76 76 5 6 7 7 7 6 7 7 8 8 8 8 46 839,467 11 811, 907 35 $27, 560 33 $26, 780 2 $780 1,518 1,153 1,208 $200, 662 217 $64,148 682 $104,754 309 $31,760 194 200 208 242 222 210 219 222 221 223 222 222 655 662 678 723 718 685 663 669 691 692 677 674 310 316 323 326 322 304 280 293 302 300 816 315 IS "H Officers of corporations- 15 16 General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— 17 1ft Men — 19 *>0 Women — ?1 Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: o^ ■>4 ?5 Men, 16 years and over- 07 ?ft Women, 16 years and over — 9q Children, under 16 years- Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — *M July . Women, 16 years and over- July 52 50 67 Children, under 16 years- 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 30 81 82 83 84 Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners — Knitters — 5 36 4 82 348 9 207 29 30 123 5 45 46 18 19 149 12 Finishers — 54 705 37 2 Machinery: 134 9 5 4 79, 536 32, 876 6,000 39, 500 Spinning — WOOL. 185 SUMMARY BY STATES, 1900. Illinois. Indiana. Maine. Maryland. Massachusetts. Michigan. Minnesota. New Hampshire. 14 7 3 4 64 32 8 22 1 7 2 1 2 18 9 5 4 3 1 8 4 2 1 1 3 5 6 3 27 23 4 8 4 2 $2, 526, 286 6 81, 530, 990 82,728,306 $9,000 8311, 508 $6,288,672 $369, 094 $2, 135, 916 $484, 004 6 828,200 8167, 387 $521, 250 876,200 $188,602 8375,771 83,000 $8,083 894, 789 $90, 922 $29, 000 $78, 000 8120,853 8208,756 7 $711, 522 $1,268,522 $194,090 $495, 552 8374,085 8 $4,400 8656, 251 9 8814,153 $2,087,733 84,600 $205, 636 $3,939,534 81, 355, 362 8256, 151 $1,286,194 10 6 46 866, 720 12 6 2 28 $14, 518 8 36 166 $212,753 29 4 201 8187,574 1 21 826, 657 16 61 $68, Oil 11 103 8201, 085 18 12 13 22 7 11 14 826, 500 34 840, 220 26 834,100 8 86,120 1,934 843,879 85 8157, 206 84 8156, 816 1 8390 84,179 $50,260 137 $162, 493 833, 920 818,600 $17, 650 15 20 810,339 179 8153, 654 14 88,157 40 840,361 16 17 19 810, 300 1 839 106 $148, 104 31 814,389 124 8130, 358 10 86,757 31 837,214 18 19 55 $23,296 4 81,400 9 $3, 147 20 21 2,165 41 765 7,690 3,040 380 2,974 22 1,572 1,273 36 609 6,716 2,071 194 2,040 28 1,805 2,016 37 682 6,667 2,509 293 2,492 24 , 8494, 285 8703, 129 $7,426 8119,456 82,091,258 $580, 129 877, 689 8790, 558 26 417 1,032 4 60 1,658 498 51 890 26 8178, 298 8518,724, $1, 300 823,715 $762, 031 $172,085 818, 553 8339, 032 27 1,233 874 31 626 4,549 1,873 206 1,514 28 8293,337 8175, 925 86,000 889,754 $1,263,543 $391, 345 $53, 876 8434, 417 29 155 no 2 96 460 138 36 88 30 822,650 88,480 8126 86,987 876, 684 $16,699 $5,160 $17, 109 31 429 1,044 . 4 62 1,681 396 36 783 32 430 1,029 3 64 1,656 443 41 847 33 430 1,045 6 65 1,673 479 39 884 34 431 1,027 6 66 1,653 610 44 902 35 406 1,038 6 60 1,596 614 61 900 36 406 1,039 6 56 1,617 533 68 914 37 405 1,029 2 65 1,611 529 68 888 38 405 1,043 3 64 1,616 563 59 869 39 405 1,035 2 61 1,677 563 60 893 40 407 1,017 3 59 1,696 562 68 926 41 423 1,022 3 61 1,713 471 64 964 42 424 1,016 3 64 1,709 417 54 912 43 1,063 878 29 545 4,657 1,688 110 1,295 44 1 171 829 29 549 4,745 1,755 121 1,354 46 l|261 1,265 1,246 1,246 1,251 1 249 888 29 560 4,808 1,854 138 1,461 46 911 29 652 4,837 2,016 177 1,495 47 846 29 491 4,322 1,989 218 1,542 48 893 29 603 4,311 1,857 242 1,556 49 917 32 614 4,109 1,854 264 1,556 50 877 32 518 4,121 1,913 264 1,549 51 ll258 1,268 1,265 1,264 851 32 516 4,347 1,985 259 1,552 52 850 32 610 4,636 2,010 267 1,586 53 880 32 526 4,820 1, 830 241 1,636 54 869 32 638 4,872 1,727 182 1,601 55 149 156 156 156 156 156 156 166 156 156 156 156 94 2 112 454 137 36 80 56 94 2 111 471 137 36 85 57 98 2 109 475 137 36 92 68 115 2 112 484 137 36 90 59 112 118 3 3 95 100 467 463 138 138 36 36 89 89 60 61 112 121 118 112 112 114 3 3 2 3 3 2 91 92 84 83 85 83 446 457 449 437 457 465 138 138 138 139 139 138 36 36 36 36 36 36 92 88 88 88 86 86 62 63 64 65 66 67 37 15 12 88 27 63 1 1 3 66 3 5 261 354 16 104 362 68 69 70 144 594 27 134 524 124 208 14 37 379 496 26 227 120 11 307 774 26 73 1,576 24 15 93 71 72 73 68 495 22 27 18 21 7 64 74 75 76 110 7 39 3 3 28 3 74 77 78. 79 3.480 3,480 8,500 8,400 80 81 8,582 3,500 90,780 5,284 960 1,248 20,136 6,320 82 83 84 186 MANUFACTURES. Table 42.— HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS: Machinery — Continued. Spindles, number— Continued. Doubling — Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Narrow, under 50-inch reed space — On woolen goods Hand — On woolen or worsted goods Braiders, number Sewing machines, number . Knitting machines, number Spring-beard needle- Flat, ribbed Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Full fashioned, flat, plain Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic Lamb, and other variety, hand Latch needle — Flat, ribbed Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Full fashioned, fiat, plain Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic Lamb, and other variety, hand Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total co^t Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur — Mohair, pounds Cost : Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials, not made in mill — Shoddv, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds / Cost Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils, pounds Cost Mohair noils, pounds Cost Tops, pounds Cost Yarns, not made in mill — Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun silk, pounds Cost Linen, pounds Cost Jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of product Soap, pounds Cost Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds Products: Total value Partly manufactured products for sale — Woolen yarn, all wool, pounds Value Worsted yarn and tops, pounds Value Woolen or worsted yarn, union rr merino, cotton mixed, pounds. Value Cotton yarn, pounds Value Waste, pounds Value United States. 3,613 7,130 956 133 130 128 24, 535 89, 047 1,691 1,432 65 1,069 1,467 6,753 1,700 336 1,655 1,936 358 869 17, 490 6,760 39, 9P3 5,473 86,599,865 8424, 250 8286, 780 $4, 747, 007 $1,141,828 Sol, 071, 859 3, 446, 838 $1, 344, 397 14, 507, 069 83, 917, 738 13,031,308 631,199 844,953 330, 920 811,175 99, 518 49,451,301 83,561,592 3, 770, 626 8488, 792 5, 276, 454 81,487^907 131,635 $39,832 100 825 133, 614 $92, 103 2, 621, 893 81, 257, 587 5, 823, 215 84,865,304 1,981,484 $642, 535 131,820,068 822, 204, 918 162, 424 $669, 236 103, 823 $277, 565 71, 478 853, 588 44,682 $57, 677 $3, 932, 624 5, 903, 557 $204, 485 396, 278 $91,315 81, 023, 161 8738, 039 8131, 503 $312, 214 $3, 236, 699 $384, 895 40,845,889 $95, 482, 566 79, 027 $38, 307 51, 202 836,303 4,300 $2,080 2,419,282 $422, 100 385, 863 $31,267 I California. Connecticut. Delaware. Georgia. 68 $10, 570 81, 800 $540 $8,230 $71, 751 14,481 $13, 802 48,487 $36, 939 4,868 $2^362 30, 020 $9,046 203 $1,583 1,076 $3,179 657 $100 $1, 860 $1,400 8126,980 960 200 988 2,662 420 19 6 542 45 618 28 237 44 580 50 $205, 658 $12, 370 $23, 990 $154,698 $14, 600 $2, 202, 640 1,181,663 $479,436 1,291,104 $344, 178 1,722,259 4,588 2,068,413 $176, 729 27, 617 $4,362 493, 216 8117, 935 3,175 $1,352 12, 066 $7,188 9,000 $5, 455 233, 282 8224, 648 29, 162 $24, 116 991, 497 8250, 011 901 84,726 12, 749 $30, 974 3,000 $3,000 838, 074 605, 522 $23, 757 92,183 $13,057 $40. 094 $44,644 $2, 959 $15, 042 $327, 171 $23, 732 333, 929 $4,043,977 246 674 243 341 5 $32, 471 $1, 875 $29, 657 $209,048 235 1,078 10 262 15 759 $72, 631 $910 85,353 $55,496 $10, 872 $757,430 1, 099, 817 $167, 700 $26, 522 3.S00 $7,200 $4,595 $1,825 $200 $429, 055 1,180 $413 3,707,218 $624,311 $55, 074 5,852 $234 60 $25 $12, 063 $10, 458 $436 $6,080 $39, 546 $8,790 $1, 230, 801 25,372 8765 WOOL. 187 SUMMARY BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Illinois. Indiana. Maine. Maryland. Massachusetts. Michigan. Minnesota. New Hampshire. 100 440 2 170 411 85 5,500 576 282 1,975 1 2 272 633 7 3 126 70 612 1,855 5,003 134 36 2 74 75 82'.) 21 35 llu 33 2 6 1,006 211 2,130 294 $528, 103 $18, 580 $55,519 $340,054 $113, 950 $2, 910, 640 2,000 $1,000 1,144,940 8252, 252 571,387 588 2,828 5 141 94 476 348 23, 174 1 4 1 27 80 73 78 1 11 123 92 93 94 95 17 51 30 92 265 12 62 38 3 32 3 100 25 102 18 GO 400 391 152 697 317 $126, 332 $14, 132 $7, 204 $104,996 18 6 104 151 114 130 $108, 442 40 521 409 380 870 $266,124 $10, 227 $9, 912 $209, 852 $35, 133 $1,459,378 32, 905 $5,337 1,402,093 $294, 169 1,382,584 275 1,016 312 21, 014 159 $175,118 $11, 625 $9, 892 $139, 061 $14, 540 $1, 319, 170 109, 163 $48,474 711, 108 $156,076 441,685 100 454 68 75 160 183 37 $31, 470 $899 $1,297 $29, 111 8163 $197, 184 126 $6,389 $200 $58 $1, 531 84,600 810, 810 $21, 981 $1, 300 $851 $16, 943 $2. 887 $347, 250 110 $8, 373 $100, 069 112 113 $1,261,242 81, 200, 483 523, 216 $75, 832 690, 906 $129, 323 538,081 115 116 117 1,514,400 $205, 760 764, 400 37, 667 $13, 937 37, 667 118 119 T>n VI 122 300,000 $9,000 2,674 173, 038 $12, 585 92, 763 $15, 037 137, 515 $28, 518 505 $45 351 182,467 815, 727 154, 304 $29, 266 83, 179 821,683 3,100 8498 T>S I'M 117 322, 500 $23, 125 111,500 $18, 728 150, 000 $18,000 21,908 10, 916, 958 8781, 259 65, 076 89,797 204, 756 $68, 796 163 84,264 $6,240 4,034 1,942,884 $177,079 668, 821 $124,316 128,436 $47,541 1"5 1% 1°7 l?S l?q 24,950 $2,495 305 861 130 131 13' 133 134 135 5,666 83,400 128, 631 $63, 321 411,468 $380, 425 44, 604 827, 794 2, 610, 885 $628, 635 10, 114 $31, 816 20, 570 $64, 044 678 8678 136 137 109,600 $70, 475 215,700 $186,400 10, 600 83, 700 3,817,650 $571,961 5,600 $30,000 7,000 $23, 000 18,000 810, 200 38, 488 $16, 905 14, 663 88,911 12, 409 84,891 1,011,889 $214, 709 205, 029 $99, 098 238, 822 $220, 029 178, 866 $67, 018 1,736,671 $360, 361 5,271 $19, 004 1,263 $3,908 71,043 $26, 131 54,098 $45, 419 30, 000 $9,300 254, 968 $62, 271 107, 426 $32, 936 270,820 $234, 096 38,000 $5, 220 1,230,881 $229, 778 2,000 83, 012 300 $210 138 139 5,995 So, 626 15,000 83, 161 945, 495 $184, 487 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 _^- 520 81,482 148 149 1,000 81,200 150 151 4,000 S3, 400 $148,411 225, 480 $8,403 14,400 $3, 168 $32, 154 $26, 099 $4,049 $9, "12 $74, 250 $14, 299 154, 626 $2,791,257 15? 15?, $1,650 200, 000 $3,000 4,100 $1,200 $24, 200 $18, 028 $9, 512 $4,080 $25, 824 $22, 599 8671,305 108, 875 33,455 8,490 81,926 $19, 550 $17, 725 $610 $8, 535 $6, 476 $6, 232 115,000 $2,424,304 $50 879, 560 9,000 $439 115 $53 84,627 83,167 $184, 259 260, 776 $7, 682 12, 508 81, 602 $121, 525 $63, 119 $8,595 $22,834 $163, 884 $23, 923 8,655,495 $6, 620, 257 $5, 525 40, 420 $1,570 1,229 $202 $3,625 $6,805 $59 $968 85,246 $5,848 $34,493 335, 651 813, 663 26, 315 $7,357 866, 640 $26, 679 82, 490 $12, 665 $77,521 $18, 924 457, 998 $2,592,829 154 155 156 157 158 159 $100 $10 8210 160 161 $1,300 $10, 677 $2,011 162 163 $240 164 165 $2, 145, 429 $29, 075 $514, 093 8410, 092 166 167 168 169 170 171 17? 1,880,670 $336, 887 172, 979 $6,959 173 174 1,063 $609 5,000 $2,756 175 1 176 188 MANUFACTURES. Table 42.— HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS: United States. California. Connecticut. Delaware. Georgia. 179 Product— Continued. Total value— Continued. Hosiery and knit goods- Hose and half hose- Woolen— 939, 957 $1, 738, 535 1, 176, 705 $2, 267, 681 957,520 $1, 384, 764 436,891 8659,959 11,352,081 87, 906, 945 15,028,173 $13,275,732 12, 572 8186,413 2, 675, 416 $13,293,829 1, 085, 046 $4, 980, 818 12,058,431 $26, 882, 902 54,807 $518,045 139, 994 81,133,328 9,601 $201, 667 824, 632 $2,240,566 12, 728 $116, 286 71,038 $248, 523 1,898,587 84, 244, 046 343, 429 81,002,392 594,090 83, 498, 837 157, 622 $328, 720 284, 685 $951, 052 10, 406, 440 $2, 205, 003 664, 779 $332, 488 4, 488, 911 $1, 305, 376 $3,774,671 $273,931 716 $85, 163, 454 $74,917,674 832 58,087 697 39,693 28 203 206 14,824 71 745 1 4 1,803 1,315 •398 921 5 46 165 221 176 213 74 20 2 20 $80 50 $400 167, 213 $224,634 3,998 $14,208 125, 662 $163, 491 ISO 181 18? IRS Merino or mixed- 590 $649 184 185 1S6 1S7 Cotton — 25,811 $70, 014 70,007 $75, 717 420 84,081 298, 148 81,999,994 58,479 8533, 651 159, 169 8446,073 4,614 $86, 318 898 $13,450 149, 233 $88,181 341, 612 $228,575 794,345 $430, 610 400, 427 $321,058 188 189 190 Value 191 192 193 Shirts and drawers — 100 $500 400 $5, 000 194 195 196 197 12,456 $20,275 205, 165 $432, 329 198 199 100 $4,000 ?nn ?01 Combination suits- ?o?. ?ns 50 8600 ?04 70S 256 $2,828 28, 867 $72,940 20,000 $40,000 ?nfi ?07 ?m ?M 50 $500 1,350 $4,650 16, 250 $47,825 ?m 211 ?12 913 500 85,000 1,200 824, 000 214 ?lft Cardigan jackets, sweaters, athletic goods, fancy jackets, etc., 50 $2,500 ?lfl 217 ?18 ?19 10 $100 ??n 991 983,295 $98. 603 m ??R ??4 WR 174, 604 $84, 807 $144,257 $26, 876 24 $4, 003, 802 $3, 542, 686 24 3,108 26 2,230 ?'?fi W7 886,800 $6,155 ??8 $18, 319 7 $429, 055 $364,845 7 246 8 246 99C, Comparison of products. 3 $126, 980 $112, 388 1 10 10 $1,055,797 $863,775 15 567 14 617. 930 '31 939 Power: •m ym Owned— Engines — 9S5 236 Gas or gasoline, number 1 7 237 ?3* 19 871 1 30 1 10 239 240 Electric motors, number 741 ?49 94 S '44 Rented horsepower — 3 2 5 3 25 1 1 3 3 3 11 1 2 10 ?45 Other kind ?46 45 7 Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including pro- prietors and firm members: 3 16 ?4R ?49 1 1 '50 5 to 20 i 4 8 1 2 21 to 50 2 2 3 61 to 100 1 101 to 250 ?54 251 to 600 '55 601 to 1,000 >% WOOL. 189 SUMMARY BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Illinois. Indiana. Maine. Maryland. Massachusetts. Michigan. Minnesota. New Hampshire. 117,517 $1*1,232 117,726 $254,244 58,334 $48,564 68,333 $66,040 1,193,150 $600, 056 469,000 $390, 000 2,000 $20, 000 16, 679 $61,288 2,000 $10,000 6,300 $72, 172 14 $840 506 $1,372 200,381 $353,711 5,310 $59, 600 11, 000 $2, 600 $15, 510 14 $2,145,429 $1,839,794 490 1 10 1 150 6 90 150 12 31,696 $61,327 8,450 $19, 520 15,300 $25,245 7,450 $12, 292 86, 121 $98, 754 198,836 $304, 659 3,547 $35, 470 13,664 $163, 968 17, 742 $48, 790 45, 798 $87, 281 $1,566,998 $2, 424, 304 $2,063,379 7 1,519 11 585 6 750 14 159 100 $500 16, 947 $30, 304 7,215 $12, 627 172,525 $145, 398 26, 624 $25, 155 100, 000 $300,000 100 $275 1,000 $13, 500 $14, 800 1 $8, 000 $8, 500 $514, 093 $430, 650 4 160 6 160 32,009 $72,444 21, 311 $44, 358 48, 149 $49, 225 2,160 $3, 240 223,420 $321,076 2,031,921 81, 384, 865 4,902 $77, 112 75, 121 $284, 956 64, 356 $505, 379 852, 167 $2, 304, 872 4,500 $37,830 30, 514 $231,433 969 $23, 897 12, 069 $96, 406 1,281 $16,200 4,852 $24, 987 51,440 $110, 449 1,060 $6, 850 7,476 $116, 756 416 $1,261 10,841 $26, 860 905, 000 $235, 750 24, 000 $11,843 461, 134 $163, 051 $32,985 $92, 326 44 $6,412,114 $5, 402, 826 46 6,725 46 4,533 1 8 11 1,940 3 35 1 4 103 102 56 28,542 $101, 709 27, 838 $115, 380 43, 140 $87, 046 44,134 $103,681 173,232 $152, 626 128, 726 $159, 532 2,543 $29,567 2,998 $61,977 303, 955 $420, 716 368 $11, 597 8,378 $103, 569 1,650 $56,418 4,034 $51, 300 586 $27,654 3,271 $12,199 298, 382 $733, 954 1,090 $20,020 12, 074 $12, 148 111,800 $61,232 20,000 $5,000 $463, 932 27 ,593,430 , 991, 189 30 1,482 22 1,050 4 32 4 257 4 26 32 10 5 2 14, 210 $32, 830 6,433 $17,508 10,283 $20, 175 10,551 $17, 779 3,137 $34, 140 51,355 $30, 813 6,191 $41,531 967 $13,067 2,272 $10, 600 4,943 $75,443 $65,679 495 $1,055 100 $400 1,616 $23,225 50 $500 $24, 947 $400 7 $405, 517 $353,820 7 304 250 2 13 1 40 217,381 $366, 591 567, 510 $805, 811 139,038 $230,406 108,899 $103, 769 $559,439 $408, 301 145, 522 $442, 271 8,000 $76, 000 46, 058 $102, 116 1,128 $7,724 792 87,128 6,014 $24,056 116 ,,211 4 $40 $10,949 $10,700 20 $2,407,919 $2,208,455 20 2,313 10 570 27 1,640 22 1 "i 2 4 6 6 256 190 MANUFACTURES. Table 42 — HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Miscellaneous Capital: • Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries Men — Number * Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number .'. Total wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over- January February March April May June July August September October November December Women, 16 years and over — January February Marc h ' Apri 1 May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years — January February March April May - June - July August September October N ovember December Skilled operatives, average number: Spinners- Men, 16 years and over Women. 16 years and over Children, under 16 years Knitters — Men, 16 years and over Women ,'l6 years and over Children , under 1 6 years Finishers — Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over , Children, under 16 years Machinery: Sets of wool en cards Combing machines, n umber Of American manufacture Of foreign manufacture Spindles, number Spinning- Woolen Worsted Cotton New Jersey. SI, 973, 482 $83, 000 $256, 855 $742, 687 $890,940 61 $73, 043 6 , 000 $56, 043 54 $55, 243 2,079 1,544 1,841 602 $187, 756 1,087 $241,974 152 $16, 878 631 594 696 563 587 6NS 592 592 614 633 656 671 039 061 106 045 063 07s 066 067 ,,-- 123 143 154 160 163 157 112 154 149 152 156 158 137 165 162 164 157 16 320 43 26 8,408 New York. North Carolina. 242 98 57 86 1 $30,203,640 $1,194,978 $3, 944, 373 $9,001,637 816, 062, 652 230 $930, 764 119 $216, 411 $714, 353 $676, 428 $37, 925 30, 852 22, 136 26, 470 $8,964,097 8,327 $3,612,989 17,219 $5, 180, 672 924 $170, 536 7,641 8,154 8,334 8,429 8,693 8,539 8,437 8,348 8,347 8,700 8,451 7,852 16,142 16, 596 17,414 17, 694 17, 946 17, 709 17,452 16, 852 16,944 17,666 17, 502 16, 717 863 K',I3 959 947 956 943 939 918 907 937 920 90IJ S92 42 3 1,466 836 19 480 7,803 191, 582 152, 622 "38," 404 $674, 869 $16,925 $52, 852 $360, 420 $244, 672 15 64 $46, 224 18 512,185 46 $34, 039 41 $32, 961 5 $1, 078 1,692 1,426 1,495 $255, 253 317 $91, 029 735 $123, 742 443 $40, 482 323 340 343 351 366 287 2SS 2S0 2S."> 295 328 329 719 7S6 804 802 799 681 676 699 706 716 719 713 451 458 461 461 463 431 430 424 432 436 434 434 18 18 18 62 178 88 45 95 13 Ohio. $1,067,937 $40, 320 $77,046 $323, 958 $626, 613 24 56 $55, 356 12 $15,050 44 $40, 306 34 $37, 170 10 $3, 136 1,565 1,311 1,413 $354, 369 154 874, 125 1,229 $275, 317 30 $4,927 146 151 157 161 151 148 156 153 161 156 150 155 1,213 1,217 1,255 1,285 1,259 1,242 1,233 1,219 1,195 1,221 1,202 1,201 25 27 311 32 35 38 38 34 29 28 25 25 110 46,9 30 275 2,860 3,920 3,920 Pennsylvania. 161 134 33 1 $15, 743, 981 $721, 967 $1,890,387 $5, 599, 572 $7, 532, 055 367 688 $638, 483 $89, 331 630 $549, 152 487 $491,717 143 $57, 435 24, 063 19, 185 21,540 $5, 825, 783 3,725 $1, 599, 766 13,739 $3, 648, 805 4,076 $577, 212 3,715 '3,825 3,869 3,869 3,832 3,696 3,572 3,623 3,651 3,679 3,706 3,658 13, 693 13, 950 14, 206 14, 286 14, 109 13, 569 12, 919 13, 402 13, 730 13, 706 13, 739 13, 559 4,173 4,160 4,238 4,271 4,266 3,963 3,835 3,897 8,966 3,964 4,100 4,085 67 49 14 1,032 6,000 854 2,589 302 31, 604 16, 496 J4,'i28 i Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. The establishments are distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Idaho, 1; Iowa, 2; Kansas, 1; Louisiana, 1; Mississippi, 1; Montana, 1; Nebraska, 1; Oregon, 1; Texas 1: West Virginia 2: Missouri, 2. WOOL. 191 SUMMARY BT STATES, 1900. Rhode Island. South Carolina. Tennessee. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. J 15 6 4 5 14 15 27 15 1 4 3 1 3 4 ' 9 5 2 2 1 1 2 4 3 2 1 3 9 2 3 2 7 8 16 9 4 5 $2,452,044 $345,212 $216,950 $52,550 $1,589,786 $978, 575 $2,558,299 $523,701 6 $145, 860 $4,112 $4,200 $4,500 $21, 300 $26, 100 $59,760 $48, 742 7 $304, 891 $43,200 $37, 200 $3, 000 $92, 380 $61, 307 $222, 935 $101, 126 8 $598, 808 $200,000 $102, 000 $11,800 $485, 822 $282, 688 $674, 934 $211,559 9 $1,402,495 $97, 900 $73,550 $33, 250 $990, 284 $608, 480 $1, 600, 670 $162,274 10 10 3 4 9 4 13 7 11 65 15 12 13 32 38 125 43 12 $87, 223 $13,520 $15, 300 $5, 260 $42,024 $36, 057 $150, 209 $38, 404 13 9 $26,050 3 $2, 950 3 $3, 400 5 $7,644 27 12 $12, 100 26 25 $57,650 100 10 $13, 700 33 14 15 56 12 9 13 16 $61,173 $10,570 $11,900 $5, 260 $34, 380 $23,957 $92, 559 $24, 704 17 51 10 8 3 25 26 82 30 18 $58, 617 $9, 970 $11, 500 $2,800 $33, 460 $23, 957 $85, 006 $24, 139 19 5 $2, 556 2 $600 1 $400 10 $2, 460 2 $920 18 $7, 553 3 $565 20 21 1,850 • 460 780 126 1,244 2,197 3,093 942 22 1,345 262 591 69 825 1,862 2,282 782 23 1,594 359 511 91 1,041 1,845 2,722 852 24 $469, 193 $73, 872 $72, 980 $21, 699 $389, 667 $394, 871 $600, 495 $143,288 25 435 73 113 15 387 601 341 180 26 $183,293 $25, 200 $31,424 $8,800 $161,507 8179, 267 $144,862 $46, 820 27 1,015 158 228 72 651 988 1,756 545 28 $256, 743 $32,792 $26, 460 $12,574 $227,842 $185, 013 $357, 777 $86,842 29 144 128 170 4 3 266 625 127 30 $29, 157 $15,880 $15, 096 $225 $318 $30, 591 $97, 856 $9, 626 31 396 63 99 13 368 585 302 172 32 448 68 99 13 411 583 312 171 33 445 75 99 14 397 578 332 170 34 440 75 105 14 406 689 341 176 35 432 85 107 16 408 690 336 177 36 431 65 119 17 384 697 351 180 37 420 56 119 17 357 643 375 188 38 438 67 119 16 361 573 380 187 39 431 71 124 17 363 570 377 187 40 419 72 124 18 408 660 290 182 41 471 91 124 16 406 477 361 181 42 453 99 124 13 375 562 340 182 43 984 153 138 65 535 977 1,478 525 44 1,043 153 138 55 643 980 1,566 606 45 1,028 162 138 60 679 % 1,004 1, 660 507 46 1,068 170 178 74 697 1,140 1,757 548 47 1,017 173 213 83 698 1,132 1.752 542 -IS 986 142 238 80 653 1,154 1,836 663 49 945 141 238 93 614 995 1,864 544 50 984 142 238 77 636 909 1,877 542 51 980 156 303 82 682 920 1,885 542 52 1,027 168 303 82 686 919 1,886 585 53 1,037 173 303 65 696 808 1,852 572 54 1,078 178 303 62 590 924 1,658 580 55 140 114 76 3 3 257 585 113 56 136 131 76 3 3 263 599 107 57 136 135 76 3 3 268 620 107 58 149 140 171 3 3 296 618 121 59 154 152 186 3 3 308 638 121 60 153 111 186 4 3 321 646 121 61 152 110 196 5 3 233 635 133 62 148 109 216 5 3 224 634 131 63 150 121 216 5 3 225 646 132 64 145 124 216 5 3 224 630 146 65 152 141 211 5 3 223 634 143 66 114 144 211 3 3 224 615 145 67 26 34 10 160 12 13 35 31 42 45 25 55 7 22 25 68 69 70 10 78 86 9 71 153 96 64 60 51 92 887 246 72 58 11 135 3 1 39 57 42 73 49 195 26 18 16 168 60 157 14 246 38 304 46 148 74 18 75 2 10 3 165 2 40 6 34 157 16 6 3 76 77 78 79 3 6,836 2,640 3,604 80 5,620 11, 076 12, 036 8,694 3,810 81 11, 076 6, 156 7,482 1,560 82 83 5,620 5, 880 2,250 8-1 192 MANUFACTURES. Table 42.— HOSIEEY AND KNIT GOODS: Machinery — continued. Spindles, number — continued. Doubling- Woolen Worsted Cotton Looms on woolen or worsted goods, number Narrow, under 50 inch-reed space- On woolen goods Hand — On woolen or worsted goods Braiders, number Sewing machines, number Knitting machines, number Spring-beard needle- Flat, ribbed Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Full fashioned, flat, plain Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic Lamb, and other variety, hand Latch needle — Flat, ribbed Flat, plain Full fashioned, flat, ribbed Full fashioned, flat, plain Circular, ribbed Circular, plain Circular, hosiery, automatic Lamb, and other variety, hand Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices.insurance.and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Wool- Foreign, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Domestic, in condition purchased, pounds Cost Foreign and domestic, etc., scoured, pounds Animal hair and fur- Mohair, pounds Cost Buffalo, cow, and other animal hair and fur, pounds Cost Cotton, bales Pounds Cost Materials, not made in mill — Shoddy, pounds Cost Wool waste and noils, pounds Cost Camel, alpaca, and vicuna noils, pounds Cost * Mohair noils, pounds Cost Tops, pounds Cost Yarns, not made in mill — Woolen, pounds Cost Worsted, pounds Cost Merino, pounds Cost Cotton, pounds Cost Silk, pounds Cost Spun sil k, pounds Cost Linen , pounds Cost Jute, ramie, or other vegetable fiber, pounds Cost All other materials which are components of product Soap, pounds Cost Oil for preparing wool for cards or combs, gallons Cost Chemicals and dyestuffs Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Cotton yarn made in mill for use therein, pounds Products: Total value Partly manufactured products for sale- Woolen yarn, all wool, 'pounds Value Worsted yarn and tops, pounds Value Woolen or worsted yarn, union or merino, cotton mixed, pounds. Val ue Cotton yarn, pounds Value New Jersey. 382 1,335 21 54 'l26' 1 61 1 466 433 109 52 $122, 374 $7, 148 $10, 380 $103,846 $1,000 $997, 110 88,068 $62, 539 67,092 $15, 166 133, 583 434 217, 148 $19,307 16, 229 $9, 774 23, 723 $15, 359 43,800 823, 485 232, 157 $223, 530 10, 000 $8,000 1, 923, 684 $387, 413 3,190 $13, 470 5,592 $16, 592 $100, 251 107, 069 $4,940 6,548 $3, 170 $27, 102 $13, 712 81, 300 $3, 080 $45, 852 $3, 068 $1,748,148 New York. North Carolina. 480 76 12, 282 11, 666 860 24 77 274 2,501 74 40 599 891 79 34 3,663 547 246 859 $2, 199, 029 $144, 387 $94, 980 $1, 818, 590 $141, 072 $20,218,200 710, 834 8396, 246 4,817,495 $1, 663, 529 4, 803, 101 626, 146 $41,076 30, 415 82, 130 45, 937 24, 337, 305 $1,668,014 2, 105, 354 $199, 137 2,923,552 $817, 592 29,224 $14,212 100 $25 47, 500 $33, 866 902, 234 $423, 411 1,685,842 $1,221,820 562, 040 $232, 011 59, 112, 590 $8, 517, 651 110,660 $473, 073 31,899 $69, 271 66, 000 $48, 000 39, 782 $54, 109 $1,659,723 3, 092, 438 899, 635 173, 458 $40, 927 $211, 687 $254, 801 $38, 657 $94, 630 81,812,802 $130, 165 14,497,904 $35, 886, 048 7,027 $2, 307 200 8200 2,000 $700 211,000 $33, 200 191 1,364 472 104 629 58 $35, 920 $4,803 $3, 822 $27, 005 $290 8504, 027 2,624 1,300,378 $92, 754 20, 000 $1,400 2, 136, 604 $333, 058 $3, 460 24,015 $631 $33, 219 $12, 533 $1,229 $6, 810 $12, 630 $6,303 968, 000 $1,023,150 Ohio. 170 1,147 70 272 194 45 392 $99,411 $14, 707 $3,338 854,015 $27,351 $807, 673 15, 000 $3,900 125,500 $57,840 123, 750 5,053 $3,877 100 50,000 $3,500 70,000 $10, 000 90, 000 $29, 310 64,823 $38,346 455, 569 $412,277 202, 934 854,774 432, 372 $98, 817 4,083 $13, 948 3,550 $12, 402 $8, 385 68, 720 $2, 639 2,600 $880 $10, 688 $7,316 $2, 982 82,015 $21,819 $11, 958 $1,576,285 Pennsylvania. 180 133 130 3 128 4,612 26, 120 62 319 12 178 505 1,272 754 619 779 34 20 6,962 2,913 10, 215 1,420 $1,884,722 $107, 905 $26, 416 $1,042,198 $708, 203 810, 928, 113 582, 215 $183, 224 765, 699 $291, 036 1, 069, 994 4,859 2, 218, 426 8189, 491 106, 907 $21,065 487, 078 $142,244 11,875 $8,985 409, 163 $219, 025 1,115,863 $861,068 350, 011 $92, 478 38, 323, 301 $7, 183, 052 18, 175 871,458 12, 222 831, 711 500 8100 $575, 488 266, 371 $12, 707 30, 458 $8,629 $271, 662 $124, 736 852, 607 $48,800 8477, 665 $60,882 328,937 $21,896,063 72, 000 $36, 000 327, 612 $52,013 WOOL. 193 SUMMARY BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Rhode Island. South Carolina. Tennessee. Utah. Vermont. Virginia Wisconsin All other states. 1 1,212 85 592 316 1,262 10 785 20 101 494 633 79 15 565 993 21 18 451 2,832 1 18 915 5 1 92 93 581 * 95 3 48 96 6 73 226 3 90 24 5 41 38 2 19 74 677 504 775 679 $223, 216 $16, 886 $6,314 $195, 374 84,642 $1, 176, 146 76, 394 812, 738 722, 963 $124, 063 422,423 6 97 196 6 159 206 493 66 220 5 12 268 12 100 9 101 2 4 71 103 104 11 7 38 9 31 $4, 677 82, 107 8325 $2, 145 105 250 4 448 7 $90,900 86, 157 85, 779 876, 329 $3,635 $1,766,831 28,860 $15, 415 706, 698 $167,058 424, 210 207 48 244 12 164 269 106 67 708 20 $79, 066 $1, 690 $1, 379 $44, 007 $31,990 $302, 835 10,000 $6, 000 52,000 $22,400 54, 200 106 107 93 69 1 8108, 006 812, 519 83,220 $92, 267 237 108 109 838,887 826 81 , 162 811,100 $26, 600 8237, 622 $10, 270 $119, 198 $31,998 $5,887 $81,313 110 111 $150 $10, 120 112 113 114 $248, 950 824, 184 $1,115,324 86, 530 $54, 256 454,404 $180,531 540, 934 8797, 818 115 116 117 3,000 8420 1,050 118 119 120 VI 199 r>3 r»4 251 125, 733 $14, 555 935 467, 539 $31,000 1,400 711,502 $56, 691 161, 145 $31, 859 389, 780 $152, 771 8,719 4,136,996 8276, 801 90, 694 $5,691 279 124, 310 810, 27 1 54, 833 89,854 147, 763 831,248 5,265 8947 145 72,440 86,464 41, 713 88, 280 195 vm l'»7 1"R l?q 130 131 90, 566 $22,762 V!' 1S3 134 135 33,450 823, 305 181,264 875, 875 531,778 $488, 442 8,989 $5,450 4,071,207 $809,552 125 $343 30 $89 136 137 11,625 88,176 10,450 $7, 915 2,000 $800 2,600 82, 800 2,400 $870 2, 097, 316 $367, 783 350 $301 250 $1, 000 276, 286 8115,521 277, 930 8202, 348 109, 643 837,330 1,532,691 8307, 672 1,629 $5, 562 6,642 $19, 271 29, 000 814, 625 51,600 $41,210 350,000 $50,000 448, 500 $88, 432 138 139 20,000 $18,000 46, 091 $43, 401 20, 878 813, 647 1,920,712 $408, 628 140 141 112 143 1, 269, 500 8191,800 1, 099, 000 $203, 500 15, 700 $4,300 123 $940 144 145 146 147 60 $132 100 $300 143 $220 400 $68 $10, 175 32, 520 $1, 321 1,683 $672 826, 656 88, 722 $230 $2, 539 $11,959 $2,562 148 149 ISO 151 15?, 153 $22, 974 93, 124 $3, 774 2,311 $945 $14, 794 $22,564 $3,151 848, 925 $16, 497 $10, 361 $500 3, 310 $218 $47, 842 95, 279 $5, 747 8,008 $4,478 $6, 683 $22, 196 855 87, 736 $73, 449 85,222 420,000 $1, 834, 685 $91,890 110, 714 $2,066 1,077 $173 84,505 817, 909 $850 $7, 547 $11, 596 $5,236 14,864,000 $1, 498, 066 $167,013 213,971 $8,389 10, 735 $2, 851 $55, 087 825, 409 $1,442 $5, 071 $15, 535 $18, 524 150,000 $2, 486, 813 154 650 $25 IBS 156 157 158 $7, 700 $4,262 860 $1,475 8300 81, 000 $21, 500 $1, 600 8200 $60 $120 $85 8450 $800 159 160 161 8850 $3,500 162 163 164 165 $2, 713, 850 $392, 237 $395, 150 $66, 367 $607, 665 166 167 168 51,002 $36, 103 169 170 2.300 81,380 171 17? 173 174 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama Texas, 1; West Virginia, 2; Missouri, 2. 1; Idaho, 1; Iowa, 2; Kansas, 1; Louisiana, 1; Mississippi, 1; Montana, 1; Nebraska, 1- Oregon, 1; MON- -TEXT- -13 194 MANUFACTURES. Table 42.— HOSIERY AND KNIT GOODS: Products: Total value — Continued . Partly manufactured products for sale— Continued. Waste, pounds Value Hosiery and knit goods — Hose and half hose — Woolen- Half hose, dozens Value Hose, dozens Value Merino or mixed — Half hose, dozens Value Hose, dozens Value Cotton — Half hose, dozens , — Value Hose, dozens Value Silk hose, dozens Value Shirts and drawers- Merino or mixed, dozens Value All wool, dozens Value All cotton, dozens Value Silk ob silk mixed, dozens Value Combination suits — Merino or mixed, dozens Value All wool, dozens Value All cotton, dozens Value Silk or silk mixed, dozens Value Legging and gaiters, dozens Value Gloves and mittens, dozens Value Hoods, scarfs, nubias, etc., dozens Value Cardigan jackets, sweaters, athletic goods, fancy jackets, etc., dozens. Value Shawls, dozens Value Fancy knit goods, wristers, etc., dozens Value Boot and shoe linings, square yards Value Astrakhans, square yards Value Jersey cloth and stockinette, square yards Value All other products Amount received for contract work Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years Value for census year Value for preceding business year Power: Number of establishments reporting Total horsepower Owned— Engines- Steam, number Horsepower Gas or gasoline, number Horsepower Waterwheels, number Horsepower Electric motors, number Horsepower Other power, number Horsepower Kented horsepower- Electric Other kind Furnished to other establishments, horsepower Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including pro- prietors and firm members: Total number of establishments No employees tinder 5 5 to 20 21 to 60 51 to 100 101 to 250 251 to 500 501 to 1,000 Over 1,000 New Jersey. 10,000 820,000 25,325 856, 500 765 81,428 63, 641 846, 390 694, 195 8596, 537 1,000 810, 000 86, 273 8540, 200 8,829 893, 060 95, 035 8190, 066 294 85,919 83 81, 185 66 81,436 338 87, 130 35,000 863, 000 11, 000 $54,000 17, 182 $11,085 13,744 83,044 847, 168 13 81,518,936 81,349,622 15 939 14 736 2 12 2 150 New York. North Carolina. 11,628 $29,233 54,606 8136, 744 11,590 $18, 560 4,000 $7,000 33, 754 845,754 44, 494 $86, 108 200 $4,800 1,779,339 88,394,455 780,753 82, 677, 994 6, 636, 642 817, 006, 721 23,785 8202, 124 54, 153 8378, 258 3,044 845, 783 288, 079 8904, 154 10, 271 836, 327 39, 813 8104, 492 567, 720 81,570,406 171,060 $533, 627 451,262 $2,564,713 200 $2,000 67,670 $271,612 26 16 4,600 $4,500 1,563,961 $228, 729 $570, 523 $25, 124 187 830,824,017 $27, 304, 179 218 21, 797 172 13,868 6 36 95 7,069 23 246 261 317 18 343, 337 8331, 043 726, 094 8446,262 112, 875 8196, 220 5,000 89, 375 $40,250 12 $835,396 $715, 450 24 1,755 Ohio. 6 1,015 24 63,381 $99,095 25, 726 $37,227 67, 700 $78,000 37, 300 $50,000 39, 609 $48,079 9,053 843, 018 13,467 8101, 638 16,806 845,658 239 82,123 5,135 861,088 1,173 826, 705 11,517 $73, 052 342 $6, 065 50 $200 273, 940 $333,258 122, 102 $304,449 82, 960 8141,380 60,000 $125,000 $250 20 $1,439,716 $1, 260, 457 19 550 14 460 1 6 1 35 Pennsylvania. 24 105,212 $2, 952 76, 460 8101, 975 130,740 8276, 087 103, 487 8152,732 57,131 $103, 988 6, 994, 945 $4,810,822 7,863,561 $7, 655, 360 6,000 $90, 000 114,183 $647, 285 78,064 8368,223 2,670,341 $3,456,695 12, 449 $74, 978 29, 366 $208, 844 1,115 815, 120 374, 057 $702,523 9,820 833, 124 82, 163 $167,545 42,760 $127,785 86, 191 $536, 707 30,000 $96, 000 110,630 $454, 892 3,366,890 $1,043,799 408, 807 $213, 053 178, 199 $47,101 8374, 976 846, 484 236 818,982,587 $16,664,664 301 9,612 236 8,246 9 75 6 114 11 134 560 483 230 319 1 13 64 113 57 62 14 5 WOOL. 195 SUMMARY BY STATES, 1900— Continued. Rhode Island. Sputh Carolina. Tennessee. Utah. Vermont. Virginia. Wisconsin. All other states. 1 74, 129 $16, 657 21,111 843, 722 131,018 8357, 501 30,000 $51,000 40, 000 $68,000 4,301 83, 501 45,837 $81, 997 2,108 $669 5,315 $13, 789 2,960 $9, 305 146,480 $202, 575 3,115 $4,984 251, 440 $167, 645 204,700 $167, 318 175 176 ' 1,900 $5, 122 4,250 $12, 790 5,389 $16, 616 3,722 $6,141 26, 831 $49,405 6,202 810, 233 25, 661 $24, 702 1,500 $2, 100 1,200 $1,800 1,800 $2, 100 117, 738 $337, 732 6,527 $33, 030 128, 371 $204, 163 57, 616 $108, 953 91,028 $87. 313 256, 586 $293, 359 177 178 30,000 857,000 171 180 1X1 182 183 184 306,600 $204, 750 420, 250 $182,687 360. 000 $203,000 153, 500 $136, 150 500 $820 1,600 84,350 50 S420 80 $980 100 82,710 60 $918 56, 000 $40, 350 299,800 $249, 850 185 186 1.87 188 189 1911 28, 980 $166,175 2,000 $21,000 102, 606 $259, 910 95, 151 $543, 409 32. 960 $263, 940 131,398- $497,206 22,400 $46, 321 7,785 857, 697 3,305 $31,623 11,040 $24, 957 130 $11,760 1,422 $31,120 1,060 $22,668 5,130 $29, 376 216 $28, 900 11,310 $66,889 360,550 8824,768 5,744 $23, 490 38, 136 $121, 305 9,000 824,600 1,376 $2, 964 191 192 25 $300 193 194 580, 744 $1,108,780 1,000 $1,500 195 196 197 198 3,800 $10, 440 510 $11,370 350 $8, 100 700 $10,410 32 $1, 140 14 $94 160 $407 103 $891 245 $3,570 46 $479 30 $336 199 200 10 $200 201 202 3,000 $18, 000 17, 500 $96, 617 40, 100 843, 850 ?m 204 ?0fi 206 2 $16 8 $22 207 208 11,200 $13, 090 ■,'(19 210 211 212 60 $1, 600 213 214 215 216 217 21 X 5,161,255 $826,861 98, 990 $30,775 834, 269 $493, 644 $215, 484 219 220 221 222 1, 243, 000 $280, 000 $46, 416 228 224 $4,800 $760 $700 3 $40,275 $37,615 1 5 $1,415 $117,606 $1,260 23 $2,422,597 $2,186,300 19 1,169 17 1,107 1 4 2 25 82,500 $36,742 13 $584, 192 $583,223 13 664 18 549 225 226 11 $2,509,694 $2,364,270 13 1,231 14 999 4 $328,487 $304, 000 6 501 8 456 3 $270, 600 $225, 000 4 212 3 125 12 $1, 518, 311 $1,434,059 14 1,213 11 683 11 $1,362,306 $1,307,528 15 1,203 16 1,170 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234 235 5 130 2 20 2 37 526 25 •lit, 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 ?44 25 25 4 8 20 13 3 27 5 10 102 15 15 25 5 6 4 5 14 15 15 245 346 247 248 2 1 5 1 3 2 1 2 2 1 4 3 4 1 8 6 1 3 1 4 2 1 3 1 1 4 1 1 5 6 3 249 1 1 2 251 252 253 ilncludes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Idaho, 1; Iowa, 2; Kansas, 1,- Louisiana, 1; Mississippi, 1; Montana, 1; Nebraska, 1; Oregon, 1; Texas, 1; West Virginia 2; Missouri, 2. SILK MANUFACTURES. (197) SILK MANUFACTURES. By Franklin Allen, Expert Special Agent. Silk manufacture in the United States has shown a marked development since the census of 1890. It has taken its place as one of the leading industries of the nation and along several lines has established its inde- pendence of foreign competition. The causes for these favorable conditions were manifold. Chief among them were the enterprise of the manufacturer, the Table 1.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1850 TO 1900, perfection and reliability of his machinery, and the wise restriction of importation during the less pros- perous period of the development of the industry. Table 1 presents a comparative summary of the industiy as returned at each census. from 1850 to 1900, inclusive, with the percentages of increase for each decade. WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. 1000 Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages. Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses ■ Cost of materials used Value of products, including amount re- ceived for contract work Raw silk used, pounds 483 881,082,201 2, 657 83,134,352 65,416 820, 982, 194 24, 206 810,699,483 34,797 89,377,696 6,413 8905,015 $10,264,208 862,406,665 8107,256,258 9, 760, 770 1S00 851, 007 U. 2 81,917, 49 817, 762 17 89, 349 28 87, 970, 2, 8442 84, 259, 851, 004 887,298,454 6,376,881 1880 382 819,125,300 P> ( 3 ) 31,337 89,146,705 9,375 ( 3 ) 16, 396 ( 3 ) 5,566 ( 3 ) {") 822, 467, 701 841, 033, 045 2, 690, 482 1870 13(1 86, 231 ( 3 ) V s ) 6,6 81, 942, 2 1,' ( a ) 3,5 ( 3 ) 1,3 ( 3 ) ( 4 ) 87, 817, £ 812,210,662 684,488 1860 139 82,926,980 .,435 81,050,224 1,585 ( 3 ) 3,850 $3, 901, 7 1, 607, 771 462, 965 1850 67 3678, 300 (3) W 1,723 8297, 416 503 ( 3 ) 1,220 ( 3 ) ( 4 ) 81,093,860 81,809,476 ( 4 ) PEP. CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1000 18. 37. 14. 20. 17 123. 104. 141. 22. 1880 to 1890 23.6 166.7 57.6 94.2 87. S 22.9 53.1 76.3 'i48.'5 112.8 137.0 18!0 to 1880 344.2 206.9 371.3 370.9 440.7 301.6 "i87."4' 236.0 293.1 1800 to 1870 138.1 112.9 22.3 84.9 100.4 84.8 47.8 1850 to 1800 107.5 331.5 215.4 253.1 215.1 256.7 1 Decrease. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries: number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. (See Table 23.) s Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. Table 1 shows that in the items of capital, wages, materials, and products the industry has maintained a constant increase from 1850 to 1900. In considering such increases the differences in the method and scope of the inquiries at the several censuses should be taken into account. The reports on silk manufacture at prior censuses included establishments engaged in the manu- facture of hosiery and knit goods, braids and trimmings, and other small goods in which silk was the fiber of chief value, but in which cotton or wool or both may also have been used. At the present census the statis- tics of hosiery and knit goods appear in a separate report, and only such braids and trimmings products and other small goods in the manufacture of which silk is the material of predominant value are included in this report. To what extent these differences may have affected the percentages of increase between 1890 and 1900 can not be accurately determined. In the principal items of inquiry the absolute increase shown by the statistics for 1900, as compared with those for 1890, is less than it was during the preceding decade and, with the exception of capital invested, less than it was in the decade 1870 to 1880. A noteworthy and striking fact shown in the foregoing table is that the value of the products in 1900 was nearly sixty times as great as it was in 1850. Table 2 presents the statistics of establishments man- ufacturing a product exceeding $500 in value and those reporting a product of less than $500; the latter were not reported at previous censuses and therefore are omitted from the other tables and their use confined to Table 2. In addition to the 488 active establishments in the United States during the census year, with a capital of $81,097,276, shown in Table 2, there were 22 idle estab- lishments, with a capital of $427,491, distributed by states as follows: Num- ber of idle estab- lish- ments. Capital. SPINDLES. LOOMS. STATES. Total. Throw- ing. All other. Total. 211 Broad. Rib- bon. Total 22 8427,491 13, 534 4,050 9,484 183 28 ] 2 11 1 20, 300 19, 000 57, 810 95,000 235, 381 New Jersey 1,354 250 1,104 185 173 12 Pennsylvania ... 12, 180 3,800 8,380 26 10 16 Adding the statistics of active establishments to those shown in the foregoing statement gives a total of 510 active and idle establishments in the United States, with a capital of $81,524,767; total number of throwing spindles, 1,053,674; accessory spindles, 952,122; broad looms, 37,174; and narrow fabric looms, 7.469. (199) 200 MANUFACTURES. Table 2, SUMMARY OF ESTABLISHMENTS WITH A PRODUCT EXCEEDING $500 AND THOSE WITH A PRODUCT OF LESS THAN $500. Number of estab- lish- ments. Proprie- tors and firm members WAGE-EARNERS. Miscella- COST OP MATERIALS USED. CLASSES. Capital. Average number. Total wages. neous expenses. Total. Textile. All other. Total 488 $81,097,276 482 65,420 $20, 982, 680 $10, 264, 444 $62,406,800. $58,093,267 $4, 313, 533 Establishments with a product exceeding $500... Establishments with a product of less than $500. . . 483 5 81,082,201 15, 075 477 6 65,416 4 20, 982, 194 486 10, 264, 208 236 62,406,665 135 58, 093, 249 18 4,313,416 117 Raw silk thrown into organzine or tram, on com- mission (pounds). Value of prod- ucts.including amounts re- ceived for contract work. NUMBER OF SPINDLES. , NUMBER OF LOOMS. CLASSES. Total. Throwing. All other. Total. Broad. Eibbon. Total 4, 300, 059 $107,257,376 1,992,262 1, 049, 624 942,638 44, 432 36,991 7,441 Establishments with a product exceeding $500. . . Establishments with a product of less than $500... 4,298,659 107,256,258 1,987,404 1,045,304 942, 100 44, 430 2 36, 989 2 7,441 ' MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS TWICE INCLUDED. Table 3 is a comparative summary by states for 1890 and 1900 of the cost of materials and value of products as reported, the cost and value, respectively, of the materials and products twice included, and the cost of materials and value of products exclusive of duplications. The amount shown in Table 3 as the value of products as reported,-<$107,256,258, is in excess of the merchant- able product of the silk industry in 1900. The value of finished goods is $92,451,212. The tabulation has been made in the form herein presented in order to show statistics comparable with those of the censuses of 1880 and 1890, which included in their totals thrown silks and other materials which, while completed prod- ucts to the throwster, are materials to the weaver and the- trimmings manufacturer. They were designated in subsidiary tables of those censuses as "materials twice Table 3.— ELIMINATION OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS TWICE INCLUDED: 1890 AND 1900. United States. California Connecticut Illinois Maryland Massachusetts . . New Jersey New York North Carolina . Ohio. Pennsylvania .. Rhode Island... Virginia" All other states. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 11900 1890 1900 isao 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 11890 1900 1890 WOO 1890 1900 1890 1900 11890 2 1900 3 1890 MATERIALS. Cost of ma- terials as reported. $62, 406, 665 51,004,425 146,219 146,406 7,198,008 6,201,876 187,514 314,855 34,305 3, 823, 963 3,251,893 21,631,118 17,908,883 6, 570, 037 10,174,818 99, 403 13, 983 19,884,869 12,094,389 818, 561 149, 763 1,326,448 713, 254 Cost of ma- terials twice included. $11,840,267 15, 537, 520 8, 420 3,500 557, 713 889, 756 51,042 354, 697 746, 175 6, 704, 322 5, 205, 501 1,144,973 1,318,742 3, 979, 831 7, 017, 604 37, 730 68,242 1,539 288, 000 Cost of ma- terials exclu- sive of du- plications. $50, 566, 398 35, 466, 905 137, 799 142, 906 6,640,295 6, 312, 120 136, 472 314,855 34, 305 3, 469, 266 2, 505, 718 15,926,796 12, 703, 382 5, 425, 064 8, 856, 076 99,403 15, 905, 038 5,076,785 780, 831 81,521 720, 525 1,324,909 425, 254 PRODUCTS. Value of products as reported. $107,256,268 87,298,454 255,902 271,912 12, 378, 981 9, 788, 951 421,088 785, 845 100, 361 5, 957, 532 5,557,569 39, 966, 662 30, 760, 371 12, 706, 246 19,417,796 33,927 31,072,926 19, 357, 546 1,311,333 229, 062 981,680 2, 068, 554 995, 114 Value of products twice in- cluded. Value of products ex- clusive of du- plications. $14, 805, 046 18, 143, 855 9,300 5,600 1,041,714 1,665,390 29, 893 290,730 945, 610 2,268,720 5,354,389 751,034 1,681,481 64,461 9,359,279 7,953,323 22, 294 94,062 26, 845 444, 000 i Included in "all other states." ^Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2' Utah 2 » Includes establishments distributed as follows: Maine, 1; Michigan,!; Missouri,]; North Carolina, 1; Virginia 1 892,451,212 69,154,599 246, 602 266,312 11,337,267 8,123,561 391, 195 785,845 100, 361 5,666,802 4, 611, 959 37,697,942 25, 405, 982 11,955,212 17,736,315 70,893 21,713,647 11,404,223 1,289,039 135, 000 40,904 2,041,709 551, 114 SILK. 201 included," but in order to avoid the erroneous impres- sion which might be conveyed by the figures without an explanation, and make clear the reasons for this duplication and consequent elimination, the conditions under which organzine and tram are manufactured are stated as follows: 1. Raw silk is purchased by a silk manufacturer who has the same thrown into organzine and tram in a plant owned by him, but located elsewhere than in proximity to his factory, possibly in another state. In this case the raw silk and the organzine and tram are reported as material and product, respectively, by the throwing plant, and the quantity and value of the organzine and tram thus thrown is also reported as material by the manufacturer at his weaving plant, and duplication occurs. 2. Raw silk is purchased by a silk manufacturer and thrown into organzine and tram in larger quantities than his own factory consumption requires, and this excess is reported in the products as organzine and tram for sale to other silk manufacturers. In this case the organzine and tram are also reported as material by the purchasing silk manufacturers, and duplication occurs. 3. Raw silk is purchased by a throwster on his own account and thrown into organzine and tram for sale to silk manufacturers. In this case the raw silk and organ- zine and tram are reported by the throwster as material and product, respectively, of his mill, and also as mate- rial (organzine and tram) by the purchasing silk manu- facturer, and duplication occurs. 4. Raw suk is purchased by a silk manufacturer, who has the same thrown into organzine and tram in his silk factory or in a plant owned by him in close prox- imity thereto. In this case the raw silk is reported as material, and the quantity and value of the organzine and tram is not shown, the conversion of the raw silk thereto being only one of the several stages of the manufacturing process for the finished product, and no duplication occurs. 5. Raw silk is purchased by a silk manufacturer, who has the same thrown, on contract, at a throwing mill not owned or operated by himself. In this case the cost of the raw silk is not reported by the throwster, but only by the manufacturer in the report for his silk factory, and no duplication occurs. (The quantity of raw silk thus thrown by commission throwsters was 4,298,659 pounds, 2,331,456 pounds being thrown into organzine and 1,967,203 pounds into tram.) Large quantities of spun silk are imported and a very considerable quantity is also manufactured in the United States. The spun silk manufactured in the United States is reported under material as silk waste, and the manufactured product as spun silk by the mill produc- ing the same for sale, and when purchased and used by a silk manufacturer as material is necessarily dupli- cated. The amount of this duplication can not be more accurately determined than bj r taking the amount thus reported " for sale " and deducting its value from mate- rials and products alike. A considerable quantity of manufactured floss and fringe silk is also used by silk trimmings manufacturers, not the product of their own factories, which is properly charged as materials. A duplication to that extent occurs and has therefore been eliminated by deducting its cost from materials and products alike. Briefly, the elimination of " materials and products twice included" has been accomplished as follows: 1. The cost and value of organzine and tram are deducted as reported, under both "materials" and "products." 2. The value of spun silk reported as a product is deducted from both materials and products. 3. The cost of fringe and floss reported as material is deducted from both materials and products. 4. The amount received for contract work, in all cases, is deducted from the value of the products. The results obtained are termed in Table 3 ' ' cost of materials, exclusive of duplications," and "value of products, exclusive of duplications. " The above method has been followed for the purpose of presenting results comparable with those published in reports of silk manufacture at former censuses. The results as pre- sented in Table 3 will differ from the net value of prod- ucts presented in the general tables of manufactures. The true "net value" is obtained by deducting from the gross value of products the total amount reported as the cost of materials used in partially manufactured form. In Table 3, $11,840,267 is estimated to represent the cost of "materials twice included" and $14,805,046 to represent the value of "products twice included" in 1900. At the census of 1890 the corresponding allow- ances were $15, 537,520 and $18,143,855 for materials and products, respective^. The following statement shows the items in detail, for the United States, of materials and products twice included at the present census: MATERIALS. PP.ODUCTS. Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Organzine and tram . . . Fringe and floss, bought as such and used in 2, 338, 464 67,984 437, 469 $10,539,632 274, 408 1,026,227 1 2, 468, 387 67,984 437,459 1 $11, 167, 191 274, 408 Spun silk made for sale. Amount received for 1,026,227 2, 337, 220 2,843,907 11,840,267 2,973.830 14, 805, 046 1 Organzine and tram "made for sale.' It should be noted that in many instances the prod- ucts of partial manufacture reported in one state go to some other state to be completed. Hence, in some cases the gross product of a state more nearly represents the 202 MANUFACTURES. industry in that state than would its finished products. For instance, the value of the gross product of Penn- sylvania, amounting to $31,072,926, is much nearer the total value of its manufactures of silk than the sum of $21,713,647, the net value of its products, because a considerable portion of the thrown silk in the state went to other states to be woven into finished products. The relative figures of the number of looms and spindles in Penns3dvania and New Jersey are instructive on this point, the fact being that a considerable number of "throwing" plants in Pennsylvania are operated for account of weaving plants in New Jersey, as explained elsewhere in this report. Thus, it appears that there were 17,641 broad power looms and 2,916 ribbon power looms reported in New Jersey as against 11,135 and 1,785, respectively, in Pennsylvania, while the number of throwing spindles was 275,516 in the former state and 611,670 in the latter. IMPORTS AND CONSUMPTION OF SILK AND SILK GOODS. Silk factories depend entirely upon imports for their raw silk material. The quantity and value of the imports, raw silk, spun silk, raw silk waste, and manu- factured silk goods for 1850, 1860, 1870, 1S80, and each fiscal year between 1880 and 1900, inclusive, together with the value of silk of domestic manufacture at each census from 1850 to 1900, inclusive, are given in Table 4. Table 4 shows the silk industry of the United States in several of its more important aspects. As the import values of manufactured silk goods are foreign invoice values, an average of about 70 per cent should be added for freight, revenue duty, importers' profits, and occasional advances on imports, to represent cost to consumers. It should be stated in this connection that the figures of import values of manufactured goods at the several periods include the value of sundry articles, of which silk is the chief or only component material, such as silk caps, bonnets, and hats, silk wearing apparel, umbrellas and parasols of silk, and silk buttons. The value of the domestic manufacture in the last six decennial census periods, when added to the value of foreign manufactured goods imported, presents in the most graphic way the volume of the consumption of silk goods in the United States. This consumption is shown by the table to be steadily increasing. In 1850 there were 67 establishments reported as engagecUin the manufacture of silk goods. Their total product was valued at $1,809,476, an average of $27,007 for each establishment. In 1900 the establishments had increased in number to 483 and the value of the products to $107,256,258, an average product of $222,063 for each establishment. The imports of raw silk in 1850 amounted to 120,010 pounds, valued at $401,385, and it is probable that the total amount was consumed in the silk mills. The imports of raw silk for 1900 amounted to 11,259,310 pounds, valued at $44,549,672, exceeding those for an}' prior fiscal year of the Govern- ment. Table 4.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF IMPORTED SILK MATERIALS, AND OF IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC MANUFACTURED SILK GOODS, 1850 TO 1900. 1 IMPORTED SILK MATERIALS. VALUE OF MANUFACTURED SILK GOODS. FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30 — Total cost. Raw silk. Spun silk. Raw silk waste, including cocoons and noils. Imported. 2 Domestic. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 1850 $401,385 1,340,676 3,055,626 13, 385, 134 11,509,008 13,610,072 15, 269, 984 13, 427, 851 13,112,641 18, 696, 578 20, 079, 384 20,509,092 19,990,955 25, 209, 175 20, 897, 502 26, 152, 709 31, 175, 837 16,953,572 23, 865, 676 27, 762, 032 20, 001, 899 33,287,883 34, 442, 215 48, 884, 987 3 120, 010 3 297, 877 583, 589 2, 562, 236 2, 550, 103 2,879,402 3, 253, 370 3, 222, 546 3, 424, 076 4, 754, 626 4, 599, 574 5, 173, 840 5, 329, 646 5, 943, 360 4, 917, 688 7,521,342 7, 422. 43C 4,956,875 7,974,810 8, 000, 621 6, 513, 612 10, 315, 162 9, 691, 145 11, 259, 310 S401, 385 1, 340, 676 3,017,958 12, 024, 699 10, 888, 264 12,890,392 14,043,340 12,481,496 12,421.739 17,232,505 18,687,245 19,151,208 IS, 544, 025 23, 285, 099 17, 994, 654 24,321,494 29, 055, 557 15, 627, 822 22, 029, 068 26, 246, 902 18, 496, 944 31,446,800 31,827,061 44, 549, 672 (*) (*) 7,521 37, 239 19,325 14, 726 43,812 91,750 78,890 178, 383 172,617 197, 139 274, 362 411, 621 856, 706 489, 652 758, 502 437, 428 843,647 782,796 801,336 956, 974 1,703,794 2,336,947 C) (') $37, 668 111,999 60, 830 47, 296 126, 832 189, 722 226, 412 442, 310 441,293 578, 950 659, 045 883, 644 1,821,421 1,093,384 1, 338, 851 , 719, 390 1, 239, 619 998, 604 1,083,616 1,177,817 1, 962, 588 3,555,227 817, 694, 658 32,961,120 24,219,981 31,348,948 32, 316, 396 38, 280, 955 33, 180, 280 37, 840, 852 27, 880, 386 27, 613, 545 30, 822, 978 32,363,678 34,297,684 37,363,143 35,478,866 30, 348, 796 36,581,097 23, 441, 139 29, 783, 529 25, 629, 128 25, 433, 477 21, 457, 249 23,063,916 26, 803, 534 SI, 809, 476 6, 607, 771 12, 210, 662 41,033,045 1860 1870 1880 SI, 248, 436 559, 914 672, 384 1, 099, 812 756, 633 464,490 1,021,763 950, 840 778, 934 787, 885 1, 040, 432 1,081,427 737, 831 781,429 606, 360 596, 983 516, 526 421, 339 663, 266 652, 566 780, 088 1881 240, 310 341, 867 1,477,736 1, 062, 342 884, 832 2, 063, 434 1,428,517 1,196,482 1, 315, 478 1,567,080 1,348,941 1, 312, 707 1,075,047 945, 610 1,341,650 1, 363, 366 1,479,832 1,772,789 1,559,238 1,814,405 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1888 1890 87, 298, 454 1892 107,256,258 i Figures for imported goods, both raw and manufactured, derived from reports of the United States Treasury Department. 2Not including spun silk. 8 Estimated from current prices, only the value being on record. 4 Not separately reported. SILK. 203 During the fiscal years 1898, 1899, and 1900 there was imported an annual average of 10,421,872 pounds of raw silk, valued at $35,941,178. In the census year 1900, as shown by Table 23, there were consumed in the manufacture of silk goods and silk braids and trim- mings 9,760,770 pounds of raw silk, costing $40,721,877. Making allowance for the amount carried over as raw material from year to year, and the considerable quantity used by the wool and cotton textile industries, the consumption of raw silk as obtained for this report agrees closely with the quantities of the imports as reported by the Treasury Department. During the year 1880 the manufactured silk goods of all varieties imported into the United States were valued at $31,348,948 (foreign value). The gross value of manufactured silk products for the United States for that year was $41,033,045. In 1890 the value of the imports of silk manufactures was $37,363,143, while the gross value of the domestic product was $87,298,454. In 1900 these values were $26,803,549 and $107,256,258, respectively. In 1860 the silk goods made in the United States as compared with the entire consumption was only 13 per cent. The percentage rose to 38 in 1880, 1 to 55 in 1890, 2 and to 70 in 1900. In broad silk fabrics the domestic production in 1900 was 67.3 per cent of the total estimated consumption of such goods. America now produces 85 per cent of the annual consumption of silk ribbons, the value of imported ribbons representing only 15 per cent. The classes of goods now principally imported from Europe are high novelties, handmade silk velvets, and handmade silk laces which are not as yet made to any appreciable extent here, but, without doubt, will be made in due time. From Japan we are also receiving Habutai and Kaiki silks which, by reason of their extreme lightness in weight, have been in con- siderable demand in the American markets. American manufacturers expect, however, that international trade returns will show a considerably diminishing percentage of this class of goods in the next few years. The census tables show a production of 8,970,933 yards of velvets and plushes made in the United States by power-loom weaving in the census year. The value of this product is $4,959,971, which is 55.5 per cent of the annual con- sumption. The annual import of foreign manufactured velvets and plushes during the census year was $2,335, - 576, foreign invoice value, and allowing 70 per cent additional for revenue duties, freight, insurance, and importers' profits, we find the approximate value to the consumers to be $3,970,479. The present relative posi- tion of the silk industry in the United States in the manufacture of broad silks, velvets and plushes, and ribbons, to the consumption of such silk goods annually, is shown by the following statement: 'Tenth Census of the United States, Report on Silk Manu- facture, by William C. Wyckoff, special agent, page 21. . 2 Eleventh Census of the United States: Report on Manufac- turing Industries, Part III, page 215. TOTAL. BROAD SILKS. 1 ' Value. Percent. Value. Per cent. $75,579,966 32,439,342 70.0 30.0 $52,152,816 25, 379, 055 67.3 32.7 Imports 2 108, 019, 308 100.0 77,531,871 VELVETS AND PLUSHES. RIBBONS. Value. Per cent. Value. Per cent. $4, 959, 971 3,970,479 55.5 44.5 $18, 467, 179 3,089,808 14.3 8, 930, 450 100.0 21,556,987 iDoesnot include production of tapestry and upholstery silks, value$l,009,835. 2 Selling value to consumer by adding to invoice value 70 per cent for rev- enue duties, freight, insurance, and importers' profits. In the above statement no account is taken of manu- factured silk goods exported, such exports being inconsiderable. The domestic production of sewing silks and machine twist, 1,465,575 pounds, valued at $9,274,800, practically represents the entire Ameri- can consumption, there being no importations of any consequence. MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS, 1890 AND 1900. The growth of the silk manufacture during the last half of the century has been in keeping with the growth of other industries, and the returns of the Twelfth Cen- sus indicate the continued prosperity of the industry. The increase during the past ten years in the quantity and total cost of the different materials used and in the value of goods manufactured is shown in Table 5. Table 5.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS: 1890 AND 1900. Number of establishments Materials used: Total cost ^w silk p^s. Waste silk, cocoons, and/pounds, noils 1 cost Organzine and tram {cost. ndS " SP™ silk {£»& Other silk materials JX 1 ^ 3 " Yarns, other than silk fct ndS " Fuel and rent of power and heat . . All other materials, including mill supplies and freight Products: Total value Organzine and tram made for sale. . Spun silk yarn made for sale Machine twist and sewing, knitting, embroidery, fringe, floss, and wash silks Dress goods, figured and plain, and other silk broad goods, except velvets and plushes "Velvets and plushes Tapestries, curtains, and other up- holstery broad goods Ribbons and laces Braids and bindings Dress, cloak, millinery, and military trimmings All other products Received for contract work 1900 1890 483 472 $62,406,665 $51,004,425 9, 760, 770 6,376,881 $40, 721, 877 $26,087,371 1, 667, 195 1,357,618 $734,539 $1, 106, 608 2, 338, 464 3, 305, 372 $10,539,632 $16, 618, 979 1,550,291 i 2 ) $3, 406, 059 « 74,040 744,223 $284, 788 $2, 638, 242 7, 116, 728 5, 624, 960 $2, 406, 354 $2, 327, 684 $684, 002 $485, 516 S3, 629, 414 $1,840,025 $107, 256, 258 $87, 298, 454 $11,167,191 $16,880,366 $1,026,227 $1,263,489 $10,246,190 $S, 917, 844 552,152,816 $22, 955, 750 »4, 959, 971 $3, 141, 026 81,009,835 S3, 712, 332 $19, 270, 283 $17,343,197 51,522,565 $2,771,382 $2,296,010 $8, 554, 566 $1,268,950 $1,758,502 $2,337,220 H Per cent of increase. 2.3 22.4 53. 1 56.1 22.8 '33.6 129.3 136.2 118.3 39.9 26.5 3.4 40.9 97.2 22.9 133.8 H8.8 14.9 12C.2 57.9 172.8 11.1 145.1 173.2 127.8 1 Decrease. 2 Not separately reported. 204 MANUFACTURES. It will be noted that Table 5 shows an apparent decrease of 29.3 per cent in quantity and 36.2 in cost of organzine and tram as materials used and 33.8 per cent in value as products manufactured. The explanation for this seeming anomaly lies in the fact that the organ- zine and tram manufactured by commission or custom throwsters are not included in the statistics for 1900 presented in this report, either as materials used or as products manufactured, although so included in 1890. Therefore, in a comparison of the two censuses, the 2,331,456 pounds of raw silk thrown into organzine and the 1,967,203 pounds thrown into tram by commission throwsters in 1900 should be taken into consideration. As elsewhere explained, the small increase in the num- ber of establishments is partly accounted for by the elimination from this report of 39 braids and trim- mings and 78 hosiery and knit goods manufacturers. The industry has undergone many changes since 1850, when the variety of its products was very limited. The demands of fashion, the adaptability of silk to fancy designs, and the varying proportions in which silk may be used with other materials in fabrics of all kinds have resulted in an almost unlimited variety of products. Much of the silk spun is now consumed in cotton and woolen mills, while the silk mills consume large quantities of cotton and woolen yarns. There were 1,667,195 pounds of silk waste and noils consumed in the industry in the census year, from which were produced 661,292 pounds of spun-silk yarn. Of this quantity 437,459 pounds were made for sale to textile manufacturers and 223,833 pounds consumed in manufacturing by the spinners of the yarn. Adding 1,550,291 pounds reported as spun silk used as mate- rials, there were 1,774,124 pounds of spun silk con- sumed by the silk industry in the census year. The quantity of spun-silk yarns of all grades imported in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1900, was 2,336,946 pounds; adding thereto the amount made in the United States during the census year, 661,292 pounds, we find the total for distribution among the textile industries to be 2,998,238 pounds. The quantities of raw silk and spun-silk yarns con- sumed by the textile industries of the United States are reported as follows for the censuses of 1890 and 1900: RAW SILK. SPUN-SILK YARNS. 1890 1900 1890 1900 Pounds. 6, 376, 881 32,851 166, 709 77, 597 Pounds. 9, 760, 770 342,425 70,073 162, 424 Pounds. 18,583 88,785 42,744 Pounds. U, 774, 124 218, 255 253, 811 Hosiery and knit goods 103, 823 i Not reported. 2 Includes 223,833 pounds remanufaetured into other silk goods by the spin- ners. ^Including woolen goods, worsted goods, fur hats, felt goods, and carpets. Table 6 indicates the extent of the further interchange of fibers for the silk industry, and shows the quantity and cost of the different textile materials reported at the censuses of 1890 and 1900 and the cost of all other materials (fuel, mill supplies, etc.), and the percentage which each item forms of the total. Table 6.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF MATERIALS: 1890 AND 1900. MATERIALS USED. PER CENT OP TOTAL Pounds. Cost. Pounds. Cost. 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 18*) 22,507,488 17,409,054 862,406,665 851,004,425 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 15, 390, 760 7,116,728 11,784,094 5, 624, 960 55, 686, 895 2,406,354 46, 351, 200 2, 327, 684 ~ 68.4 31.6 67.7 32.3 89.2 3.9 90.9 4 6 6,444,208 219, 861 239, 461 104,810 108, 388 •1 1,830,550 165, 683 167,770 107, 365 134, 986 4,313,416 2,325,541 28.6 1.0 1.1 0.4 0.5 2.9 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 6.9 1 Not reported separately in 1890. Table 6 shows but slight differences in the several percentages at the two census periods. Owing to the high cost of silk per pound, the textile yarns other than silk form a much smaller percentage of the total cost of materials than of the total q uantity. The statistics for 1890, as presented in this table, show that establishments engaged in the manufacture of silk and silk goods used silk materials (raw, waste, spun, organzine, tram, etc.) and yarns other than silk amounting to 17,409,054 pounds. Of this total quantity, silk materials formed 67.7 per cent and yarns other than silk 32.3 per cent. In 1900 the same class of materials amounted to 22,507,488 pounds, of which quantity silk materials formed 68.4 per cent and yarns other than silk 31.6 per cent. The total cost of these materials in 1890 was 148,678,884, of which cost silk formed 95.2 per cent and yarns other than silk 4.8 per cent, while the cost in 1900 was $58,093,249, of which amount silk formed 95.9 per cent and yarns other than silk 4.1 per cent. SILK. 205 SEWING SILK AND MACHINE TWIST. Connecticut continues in the lead in the production of sewing silks and machine twist, its proportion being 47.1 per cent of the total quantity manufactured. Massachusetts is second, its proportion being 30 per cent. These two states produced 77.1 per cent of the total annual output of this class of goods. The follow- ing statement shows the output in pounds, for the census year, of the several states in the order of their importance as manufacturers of these products: United States Connecticut Massachusetts Michigan Pennsylvania New York California Total. Pounds. 1, 465, 575 690, 455 439, 664 124, 535 117, 951 65, 028 27, 942 Sewing, embroid- ery, and wash silks. Pounds. 477, 658 145, 032 170, 423 64, 000 74,475 18, 528 5,200 Machine twist. Pounds. 987, 917 545,423 269, 241 60,535 43, 476 46,500 22, 742 There is very little competition from abroad with domestic manufacturers of sewing silk and machine twist. In fact, the United States product is universally acknowledged as superior in finish and purity of dye to that of any other country, chiefly because only the best Japan and China filatures, dyed unweighted, are used. It is noteworthy that at the Paris Exposition of 1900, the grand prix d'honneur, the highest award given, was awarded to an American exhibitor of this class of silks. Among the most important changes in the methods of business in this branch of the industry during the past decade are the following: 1. An increase in the use of machine twist for manu- facturing purposes has been effected by shortening the lengths from 1-ounce or large spools to 200 and 100 yard spools. While this is a decided convenience and benefit to the smaller manufacturing trade, it entails greater cost to the silk manufacturer in the additional spooling and spools and in preparing the goods for the market. In the early days of the industry — say forty years ago — sewing silk was universally put up in skeins, but with the introduction of sewing machines and their use in the manufacture of clothing and shoes, that practice is now a thing of the past, fully 99 per cent of all machine and sewing silk being, at this time, put up on spools. 2. A decided tendency toward finer sizes of thread. Formerly the average size used was about size A, rep- resenting 1,000 yards per ounce. To-day the principal goods sold are double (00), representing 1,600 yards per ounce. While these changes have been a benefit to the con- sumer, they subject the silk manufacturer to the addi- tional expense of spooling up 96 or 192 spools instead of 12, and to the further disadvantage of being able to "throw" only 300 pounds of 00 in the time sufficient to "throw" 480 pounds A. The increasing quantities used in the manufacture of clothing and leather goods necessitates the use of an increased quantity of fine sizes for certain parts of the work. These commercial changes, which are a direct loss to the manufacturer through the increase of his expense account, are indicative of his controlling desire to lead the trade in the direction of greater economies in the distribution of his product, and for that reason are noteworthy. About two-thirds of the output of machine twist is sold to manufacturers of clothing, shoes, cloaks, etc., one-third being sold to the dry-goods trade in small wares, such as spool silks for the retail dressmaking trade. The manufacturing trade absorbs about one- half of sewings, the remaining one-half being sold as small wares in embroidery silks, knittings, and wash embroidery silks. The sale of embroidery silks has increased phenomenally during the decade, owing to the great vogue of art embroideries for decorative purposes. Other noticeable features of the decade have been marked improvements in the luster and evenness of the thread, firmness of the twist, and great variety of bril- liant, plain, and ombre or shaded colors, perfectly blended. In sewing silks alone a full assortment of colors now runs up to 200. The following statement illustrates the growth of this branch of the industry, and gives the percentage of increase in quantities produced since the census of 1860: CENSUS YEAR. Pounds. Value of product. Per cent of in- crease in quantity. 1850 (') 409, 429 516, 621 3 791,525 31,119,825 1,465,575 281,209,426 Pi 6,783,855 7,068,213 9, 274, 800 I860 1870 26.2 1880 53.2 1890 41.5 1900 30.9 1 Not reported separately. 2 All sewing silk; machine twist first made in 1852. 3 Sewing silk and machine twist only. BROAD SILK WEAVING. The salient features of the development of broad silk weaving in the United States during the past decade are four in number: 1. The production of silk taffetas in both black and colors by power looms. This method of producing these goods was first emplo}^ed in the United States, the pro- duction being on a scale of sufficient commercial impor- tance to entitle this country to credit for its success. Later, power loom weaving of taffetas was adopted in Europe as a profitable commercial proposition. For- eign countries are now, therefore, close competitors in the manufacture of these goods, but the credit of origi- nal achievement remains with the United States. The 206 MANUFACTURES. importance of this fact is best realized when we con- sider that fully one-half of the fabrics produced to-day in the United States on silk power looms are properly included in the "taffeta" class. 2. While a small proportion of the high-class "fan- cies" consumed in this country is of French origin, the great bulk is made by domestic mills. We are indebted for this result to the energy and versatility of the man- ufacturers, who during the last decade seized upon the possibility of reproducing here the grades of French and Swiss "fancies," which by their attractiveness dom- inated the American market. We have succeeded in manufacturing every variety of checks, stripes, and fig- ured goods (Jacquards) in popular grades. The Amer- ican silk industry can fairly claim to be unexcelled at the present time in the production of this class of goods. 3. Marked progress in the manufacture of piece-dyed goods woven with raw-silk warps. Continually expand- ing facilities for piece dyeing in silk manufacturing establishments and in dyehouses have largely increased the output of this description of fabrics. Both piece dyeing and printing have been for many years features of the foremost silk manufacturing establishment in the United States, but recent favoring circumstances have given a great impetus to these branches of the industry. At the present time piece-dyed and printed goods of domestic manufacture have largely replaced the imports from Europe. Formerly the European productions were printed exclusive^ in Europe. As a consequence of the American tariff, European manu- facturers have been shipping a considerable quantity of their goods to this side in the raw or gum to be printed. At the present time both the manufacture and the printing of the fabric are so successfully accom- plished in the United States that the domestic produc- tion dominates our own markets in these specialties. 4. Under pressure of sharp competition, both foreign and domestic, American manufacturers have been com- pelled to study more closely the intricate details of manufacturing and to master the economies developed abroad by experience and long practiced there. Warp-print fabrics have also been manufactured to a large extent in the United States during the past ten years, both in broad silks and in ribbons. Warp- print goods, including tie silks made in this country, have reached such a degree of perfection that at the Paris Exposition of 1900 gold medals were awarded to two American exhibitors of these fabrics. A similar award was also made to an American ex- hibitor of plain black silks for the superior weave and finish of the fabric. A striking feature of the industry is the increase in the number of power looms and the decrease in hand looms. The following statement presents the number of power and hand looms at each census from 1880 to 1900, inclusive: Power looms on broad goods . . Power looms on narrow goods. Hand looms on broad goods . . . Hand looms on narrow goods . 1880 3,103 2,218 1,629 1,524 1890 14, 866 5,956 413 1,334 1900 36, 820 7, 432 164 9 The power looms used on broad goods in 1900 were classified as follows: Plain looms, 36 inches or over, reed space 13, 077 Plain looms, under 36 inches, reed space 16, 161 Jacquard broad looms 7, 587 Table 7 presents a summary, by states, of establish- ments classified according to the number of looms operating on broad silk goods, not including broad looms on velvets and plushes, during the census year. It should be noted that where several mills in the same state are operated bj r one firm they are treated as one establishment and classified according to the combined total of looms. Velvets. — One of the notable developments of the past decade, realizing the earlier ambitions of the Amer- Tablb 7.— BROAD-SILK WEAVING MILLS, CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF LOOMS: 1900. Total number of estab- lish- ments. ESTABLISHMENTS CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF BROAD LOOMS. Total STATES. r Under 50. 50 and under 150. 150 and under 250. 250 and under 500. 500 and under 750. 750 and under 1,000. 1,000 and under 1,250. 1,250 and over. number oi broad looms. 239 87 81 29 11 2 10 5 31 5 2 3 1 35,446 1. New Jersey: 84 31 56 39 5 6 4 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 26 10 19 20 36 8 14 12 2 2 10 8 8 2 2 1 1 2 10, 475 7,077 10, 662 2,867 1,894 896 633 209 191 147 144 125 120 62 34 8 2 2 2 1 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 SILK. 207 ican silk manufacturers, has been the manufacture of velvet in this country on a paying basis. The American consumption of velvets and plushes is not so large as that of other weaves. It is estimated at a value of $8,930,450 annually, but when we realize that mills in the United States are now supplying 55.5 per cent of this amount it becomes evident that the problem of successful production is being solved. The develop- ment during the past decade has been principally along the lines of medium grades of black and colored velvets, used largely for millinery and dress trimmings. I n these grades the United States is now supplying 75 per cent of the trade consumption. There is a growing tendency to decided improvement in the better grades; also in the successful manipulation of "panne" velvets, and in various styles of fancy velvets, such as checks, stripes, and figures. The yardage of velvets produced in the census year was 5,122,249 yards, the reported value at the factory being $2,479,903. Germany has been most seriously affected by the com- petition of the United States in the last ten years. Lyon has well held its own, on account of its new fabrics, styled " velours panne" and "velours mousseline." Its supremacy over Crefeld is due in fact to its higher grades of velvet, produced by using pure silk instead of spun silk and cotton. Lyon continues to excel and con- trol the bulk of the trade in all pile fabrics where the material is reeled silk. The relative importance of the velvet trade with the United States from these foreign centers is shown by the following figures of their exports to the United States for the past four years. 1 YEAR. From Lyon, vel- vets and plushes. From Cre- feld, silk velvets. From Cre- feld, cot- ton velvets. 1897 $328, 070 345, 717 304, 912 498, 558 $1,263,142 601,849 631, 256 802, 876 $194, 450 153, 855 174, 675 1898 1899 1900 235, 711 Plushes. — The production of plushes amounted to 3,848,684 yards, the factory value being $2;480,068. The relative positions of velvets and plushes as to the quantity of each manufactured have been reversed dur- ing the past decade. Ten years ago the seal plush and 1 Exports Declared for the United States, quarterly publication United States Department of State. upholstery plush industry in the United States was in a flourishing condition, and continued so for some time; but in 1900 it was much less so, and at the time of writ- ing this report the seal plush industry especially has suffered yet greater decline. The census of 1890 re- ported a product of velvets and plushes valued at $3,141,026, but though no separate classification of the two items was then made, it was recognized that the output of plushes largely exceeded that of velvets. 2 At this census the yardage and factory cost of both descriptions of goods are given. Seal plushes are used in the cloak, cape, cap, and trimmings trades. Sharp domestic competition finally reduced prices materially, but the benefit to consumers was of comparatively brief duration. Cheaper and yet cheaper grades of goods were made until, fashion no longer favoring the fabric, the demand declined as stated. The importation of these goods from England, where formerly the largest proportion of them was manufactured, has now entirely ceased. The development of broad goods weaving in the United States is best illustrated by a comparison of the production of such goods in each census year since 1870, which is shown in the following statement, presenting the yardage, the value, and the per cent of increase in the quantity of broad silk goods manufactured in the United States at the periods mentioned, including tap- estry and upholstery silks, velvets, and plushes, and embracing all silk goods and silk-mixed fabrics (woven on broad looms) in which silk is the material of chief value. CENSUS YEAR. Yards. Value of products. Per cent of in- crease in quantity. 1870 1,026,422 10,856,284 37,648,220 97,940,935 (') $11,224,895 29,809.108 58, 122, 622 1880 1890 1900 2 1 Not reported separately. 2 The census of 1900 separates the yardage and value as follows: All silk, 68,437,218 yards, valued at $42,573,279; and silk mixed, 29,503,717 yards, valued at $15,549,343. Table 8 presents, in detail, the production of broad silk goods by yardage, value, and average value per yard for the United States during the census year. - Eleventh Census of the United States, Report on Manufactur- ing Industries, Part III, page 217. Table 8.— SILK BROAD GOODS MANUFACTURED: 1900. Total Plain and fancies Jacquards Piece-dyed Velvets Plushes Tapestry and upholstery Quantity (yards). 97, 940, 935 62, 536, 803 9,209,695 15, 890, 385 5, 122, 249 3,848,684 1,333,119 Value. $58, 122, 622 39, 302, 821 6, 639, 322 6, 210, 673 2,479,903 2, 480, 068 1,009,835 Average value per yard (cents). 62.8 72.1 39.1 48.4 64.4 75.7 ALL-SILK BEOAD GOODS. Quantity (yards). 53, 573, 488 7, 532, 229 7,331,501 Value. $42, 573, 279 33,852,111 5,379,001 3, 342, 167 Average value per yard (cents). 63.2 71.4 45.6 SILK-MIXED BROAD GOODS. Quantity (yards). 29,503,717 8, 963, 315 1,677,466 8, 558, 884 5, 122, 249 3,848,684 1,333,119 815,549,343 5,450,710 1,260,321 2, 868, 506 2,479,903 2,480,068 1,009,835 Average value per yard (cents). 60.8 75.1 33.5 48.4 64.4 75.7 208 MANUFACTURES. Table 9 presents a summary, by states, of establish- ments classified according to number of looms operating on velvets and plushes. Table 9.— VELVET AND PLUSH WEAVING MILLS, CLAS- SIFIED BY NUMBER OF LOOMS: 1900. Total num- ber of estab- lish- ments. ESTABLISHMENTS CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF LOOMS. Total number of looms. STATES. Under 50. 50 and under 150. 150 and under 250. 250 and over. 15 4 8 1 2 1,543 6 4 2 2 1 2 1 1 4 1 2 1 1 1 1 787 3. New York 153 4. New Jersey: 86 Outside of Paterson 18 SILK RIBBONS. Awards of gold and silver medals were made at the Paris Exposition of 1900 to American manufacturers of plain and faconne ribbons. The invention of the high-speed ribbon loom, about ten j^ears ago, was a great advance over the so-called "Swiss" and "German" power looms which were used exclusively in this country up to 1889. The new loom was first made in the United States, and in the last few years has reached a high state of perfection. Ease in leveling the harness, handling the warps, and the positive control of the take-up, which enable the looms to be run at continuous high speed, are the marked fea- tures of this invention. It has furnished occupation for a new class of labor, women being now generally and profitably employed in this particular grade of work, whereas on the looms formerly in use male labor was a necessity. It is not too much to say that the equipment of rib- bon machinery in the United States is now equal to any commercial demand that may be made upon it in turn- ing out all articles of ribbon known to the trade. The ribbon looms reported were classified as follows: Total 7,441 German looms, warps on top 4, 471 High-speed looms - 2, 105 Jacquards 856 Hand looms 9 Table 10 presents a summary, by states, of establish- ments classified according to number of looms operat- ing on ribbons. Table 10.— SILK BIBBON WEAVING MILLS, CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF LOOMS: 1900. Total num- ber of estab- lish- ments. ESTABLISHMENTS CLASSIFIED BY NDMBER OF LOOMS. Total STATES. Un- der 50. 50 and under 150. 150 and under 200. 200 and under 300. 500 and over. number of looms. 115 65 39 5 5 1 7,441 1. New Jersey: 37 5 31 35 5 1 1 19 4 16 23 3 12 1 12 10 2 1 1 3 3 2,655 261 2 2 1 2,248 1,788 294 144 51 THROWING SPINDLES. Table 11 presents a summary, by states, of establish ments classified according to number of organzine and tram spindles. Table 11.— MILLS CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF THROWING SPINDLES: 1900. Total number of estab- lish- ments. ESTABLISHMENTS CLASSIFIED BY NUMBEK OF THROWING SPINDLES. Total STATES. Under 2,500. 2,500 and under 5,000. 5,000 and under 7,500. 7,500 and under 10,000. 10,000 and under 12,500. 12,600 and under 15,000. 15,000 and under 20,000. 20,000 and under 25,000. 25,000 and under 40,000. 40,000 and under 45,000. 45,000 and under 50,000. 75,000 and over. number of throw- ing spin- dles. 121 35 21 21 13 8 3 5 8 5 3 1 2 1 1,045,304 45 29 13 12 3 9 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 7 10 5 3 1 5 3 7 2 4 2 8 7 1 3 1 1 7 2 2 4 1 2 2 1 4 1 2 1 1 1 1 611, 670 171,410 104,106 47, 964 31,306 29, 662 28, 372 9,680 3,408 3,264 2, 622 1,104 648 88 2. New Jersey: 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 « The number of throwing spindles reported for this census, as shown in Table 11, is 1,045,304; these spin- dles are classified as follows: Organzine, first time over 582, 180 Organzine, second time over 345, 145 Tram spindles 1 17, 979 The total number of accessory spindles, as shown in Table 23, is 942,100, making an aggregate of 1,987,404, as against 1,087,395 similar spindles in 1890 and 426,530 in 1880. Of the total number of throwing spindles reported at SILK. 209 this census, 58.5 per cent were located in Pennsylvania, the center of the throwing industry. It will be noticed that 20 establishments of the 45 reported in this state operate more than 10,000 spindles, and one as high as 75,000 spindles. American "throwing" is done principally on belt spinners which are run from 11,000 to 12,000 turns a minute on first time over and 9,000 on second time over. The machines and organizations are inferior to none. A review of the improvements effected in the past decade in "throwing" machinery will be found ap- pended. FINISHED SILK GOODS. Owing to the differences in the schedules of inquiry and in the methods employed at the several censuses, and the changing conditions in the industry, necessi- tating changes in the classification of the manufactured products, it is not possible to present a table giving comparable items of production for this and preceding censuses. At this census the aim has been to indicate the pro- duction by quantities (yardage and pounds) so far as was possible, as comparison by values is frequently misleading, owing to changes in the price of merchan- dise. The classification of the products of the loom by their commercial designations as fabrics, which was em- ployed in former censuses, has been abandoned, for the reason that considerable quantities are now woven and sold in the grey, even the sellers, for example, not knowing whether the fabrics would be finished for dress goods, cloak linings, hat linings, or millinery, etc. By the method adopted the yardage of all silk fabrics or silk-mixed goods is shown for 1900. For this reason comparison of production with previous censuses is difficult as to special articles, but it is believed that the change is a wise one, as the former classification is no longer practicable. The following statements present for 1880, 1890, and 1900, respectively, the quantities and values of the finished or merchantable products: Finished Goods for the Census Year 1880. l Finished Goods for the Census Year 1890. * Total value. Sewing silk Machine twist Floss silk Dress goods Satins Tie silks and scarfs Millinery silks Other broad goods Handkerchiefs Ribbons ' Laces Braids and bindings Fringes and dress trimmings. Cords, tassels, passementeries, trimmings Upholstery and military trimmings Coach laee and carriage trimmings Undertakers', hatters', and fur trimmings. Mixed goods and silk values therein Quantity. 821,528 pounds . f 10,856,284 yards. ■ lc 30,129,951 yards. and millinery Value. $34, 519, 723 776, 120 6,007,735 225, 025 4,115,205 1,101,875 606, 675 891, 955 627, 595 3,881,590 6, 023, 100 437,000 999, 685 4, 950, 275 1,866,575 1,392,3* 37, 510 59, 805 519, 643 1 Tenth Census of the United States, Report on Silk Manufacture, by William C. Wyckoff, special agent, pages 25 and 26. MON TEXT 14 Total value. Machine twist and sewing silk Fringe, knitting, embroidery, and floss silk. Dress goods, figures and plain Tailors' linings Tie silks and scarfs Other broad goods Handkerchiefs Velvets and plushes Upholstery goods: Curtains Tapestries Other upholstery goods Ribbons Laces Braids and bindings Gimps and trimmings Dress and cloak trimmings Military trimmings Hosiery and knit goods: Shirts and drawers Hosiery Mittens, gloves, etc Jersey cloth Other products Quantity. 1,119,825 pounds. 329,637 pounds. . . -37,648,220 yards. ^25, 737,211 pieces .. Value. $69,154,599 , 068, 213 , 849, 631 ., 183, 134 ,011,437 919, 919 ,928,036 ,913,224 ,141,026 471, 324 , 330, 287 , 910, 721 , 081, 447 261, 750 :, 771, 382 ;, 918, 209 ,403,757 232,600 26,421 141, 183 897,904 90,664 602, 330 'Eleventh Census of the United States, Report on Manufacturing Industries. Part III, pages 213 and 214. Finished Goods for the Census Year 1900. Total value. Machine twist Sewing, embroidery, and wash silks . Fringe and floss silks Broad goods, total . Broad silks, all silk, and silk mixed: Plain and fancies Jacquards* Piece-dyed Velvets Plushes Upholstery and tapestry Ribbons Laces, nets, veils, veilings, etc Braids and bindings Dress, cloak, millinery, and military trimmings. All other products Quantity. 987, 917 pounds . . 477. 658 pounds .. 193. 659 pounds . . 97, 940, 935 yards . 62, 536, 803 yards . 9, 209, 695 yards .. 15, 890, 385 yards . 5, 122, 249 yards . . 3, 848, 684 yards . . 1, 333, 119 yards . . Value. $92,451,212 5, 997, 974 3,276,826 696, 982 58, 125, 622 39, 302, 821 6, 639, 322 6,210,673 2,479,903 2, 480, 068 1, 009, 835 18, 467, 179 803, 104 1, 522, 665 2,295,010 1,268,950 COMPARATIVE STATISTICS BY STATES. Table 12 is a comparative summary, by states, for 1880, 1890, and 1900, of the data reported under the principal heads of the inquiry. In considering the comparative statistics shown in Table 12, it should be understood that the omission of silk hosiery and knit goods, and of braids and trim- mings in which silk was a material of minor value, reduces the increase between 1890 and 1900. The large decrease in Mew York during the last decade is due, "in part, to this omission, which affects, more or less, the statistics for the other states. A noticeable feature shown in Table 12 is the practical disappearance of hand looms and the marked increase in power looms. The number of spindles has increased, since 1880, 363.6 per cent. The five leading states in silk manufacture at the last three censuses were New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. The relative 210 MANUFACTURES. rank of these states with respect to the principal items of information presented in the table varied slightly from time to time as shown in the following statement, the number indicating the rank: STATES. NUMBER OF ESTABLISHMENTS. CAPITAL. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS. WAGES. COST OF MATERIALS USED. VALUE OF PRODUCTS. 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1 2 3 4 5 2 3 1 4 5 2 3 1 4 5 1 2 4 3 5 1 3 2 4 5 1 4 2 3 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 3 2 4 5 1 4 2 3 5 1 2 3 4 5 1 3 2 4 5 1 4 2 3 5 1 2 4 3 6 1 2 3 4 5 1 6 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 5 1 3 2 4 5 1 6 2 Connecticut 3 4 Based upon all essential considerations, the states included in the statement rank, at this census, in the order given. The greatest growth is noted in Pennsyl- vania, which, from a position of comparative insignifi- cance in 1880, has advanced to second place at this census. This may be characterized as one of the prin- cipal developments of the industry during the interval. It is a result of the abundance of suitable labor and cheap fuel in the eastern part of the state, advantages which continue to influence the establishment of new silk mills and the removal of old plants from other localities. Table 12.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY FOR THE UNITED STATES, BY STATES: 1880, 1890, AND 1900. Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. SALARIED OFFI- CIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Miscella- neous ex- penses. Cost of materials used. Value of products, including amount re- ceived for contract work. Number of spindles. NUMBER OF LOOMS. STATES. Num- ber. Salaries. Total num- ber. Total wages. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Total. Power. Hand, United States 1900 1890 1880 483 472 382 881,082,201 51,007,537 19, 125, 300 2,657 1,531 (>) 83,134,352 1,917,877 (') 65, 416 49, 382 31, 337 820,982,194 17,762,441 9,146 705 24,206 17, 602 9,375 34, 797 28, 914 16, 396 6,413 2,866 5,566 810,264,208 4,259,623 ( 2 ) 862,406,665 51,004,425 22, 467, 701 $107,256,258 87,298,454 41, 033, 045 1,987,404 1,087,395 426, 530 44, 430 22,569 8,474 44, 257 20, 822 5,321 173 1,747 3,153 California Connecticut ... 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 "1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 31890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 1880 1900 1890 31880 1900 31890 1880 U900 51890 »1880 5 9 6 38 35 28 4 10 6 308, 847 112,283 164, 300 12, 166, 775 9,037,042 4,436,500 259, 540 422,096 82,000 6 11 (') 323 117 ( J ) 33 49 4,998 16, 276 t 1 ) 403, 423 159, 273 0) 51, 180 54,314 t 1 ) 117 203 151 6,514 4,964 3,428 412 756 259 33,055 68,290 41, 400 2,392,873 1,847,531 1,026,530 121, 644 241, 322 72, 195 24 49 20 2,763 1,640 785 81 157 67 91 152 106 3,585 3,301 1,990 310 589 135 2 2 25 166 123 653 21 10 57 4,113 10,438 ( 2 ) 637,450 270, 426 ( 2 ) 42,410 35, 761 ( 2 ) 146,219 146,406 80,996 7, 198, 008 6,201,876 3,311,206 187,514 314,855 125,895 255, 902 271,912 159, 175 12,378,981 9,788,951 5,881,000 421,088 785, 845 244, 150 3,380 2,817 350 160, 743 129, 664 88,825 2 36 24 2,975 1,378 615 34 126 64 2 1 2,975 1,372 603 27 44 13 35 24 6 12 7 732 82 51 4 4 20 20 22 180 132 106 92 185 151 3 50, 400 20, 900 5,649,758 3, 353, 296 1,306,900 29, 285, 792 16, 809, 927 6,952,325 9,800,207 11,165,918 4, 696, 775 130, 376 3 (') 156 223 (>) 959 472 (') 363 432 (') 11 3,600 (') 227, 276 258, 115 C 1 ) 1,144,512 541, 670 (') 514, 439 601,336 (') 3,455 72 82 3,110 2,993 1,826 24, 157 17,445 12, 549 7,861 12,719 9,633 209 20,633 11,000 1,110,324 1, 038, 284 521, 725 9, 232, 532 6, 634, 610 4, 177, 745 2,861,818 4,983,063 2, 590, 025 25,420 28 12 1,102 977 353 11,279 7,773 4,696 3,149 4,456 2, 405 35 44 66 1,837 1,928 1,285 11,679 8,773 5,360 4,299 7,983 5,459 119 14 171 88 188 1,199 899 2,493 413 280 1,769 55 3,798 ( 2 ) 382, 745 484, 390 ( 2 ) 4,896,595 1, 356, 137 ( 2 ) 1,601,527 1,123,671 ( 2 ) 5,159 34,305 15,760 3,823,963 3,251,893 1, 990, 515 21,631,118 17,908,883 9, 678, 536 6,570,037 10,174,818 5,331,804 99,403 100, 361 35, 415 5, 957, 532 6,557,569 3,764,260 39, 966, 662 30,760,371 17, 122, 230 12, 706, 246 19,417,796 10, 170, 140 135, 354 •6 14 39 1,040 540 241 20, 572 11,724 4,553 5,268 4,940 2,086 125 14 1,017 444 88 20, 557 11,487 2, 956 5,175 3,888 1,095 125 39 Massachusetts . New Jersey New York North Carolina 107, 312 81, 435 30,450 536,065 359, 364 210, 783 136, 703 154,969 67, 271 18, 790 23 96 153 15 237 1,597 93 1,062 991 3 6 121 66 49 6 3 37, 830 24,700 20,894,023 9, 362, 063 1,379,900 680, 252 122, 256 4 (') 745 192 (') 8 8 2,512 « 718, 776 256,049 (') 12, 320 8, 507 36 135 21,028 9,330 3,189 455 186 11,173 12, 550 4,629,626 2,725,285 678, 120 166,675 53, 471 8 21 6,214 2,420 1,000 124 49 28 73 11,665 5,617 1,870 326 107 41 4,249 1,293 319 5 30 2,662 (?) 2,451,820 939,051 ( 2 ) 103, 454 17, 427 13, 983 19,495 19, 884, 869 12, 094, 389 1,830,985 818, 661 149, 763 33, 927 53,110 31, 072, 926 19, 357, 546 3,491,840 1,311,333 229,062 96 16 22 12, 949 3, 583 828 533 43 12, 920 3,360 566 533 43 16 22 Pennsylvania . Rhode Island.. 942, 545 318, 215 25,241 4,212 3,393 29 223 262 Virginia 3 594, 359 12 12, 678 473 105, 056 144 228 101 15,300 720, 525 981,680 41,798 147 147 All other states 11 5 6 1,312,272 534, 426 61, 000 41 20 <>> 41,295 17, 325 0) 1,080 678 85 303, 171 138, 779 15, 415 291 145 16 758 392 62 31 141 7 123, 636 15,862 C) 1, 326..44S 713, 254 82, 510 2,068,554 995, 114 111,726 35, 856 36, 704 3,610 785 169 o 779 169 6 2 1 Not reported separately. 2 Not reported. 'Included in "all other states." * Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware,2; Maine, 1; Mary- land, 2, Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. 6 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; Mis- souri, 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia, 1. "Includes establishments distributed as follows: Kansas, 1; Maine, 1; Mis- souri, 1; New Hampshire, 1; Rhode Island, 1; Vermont, 1. SILK. 211 CAPITAL. Table 13 is a comparative statement in detail of capi- tal for 1890 and-1900, by states. The value of land and buildings owned, as shown by Table 13, is 112,250,905 as compared with $6,904,628 in 1890. The estimated value of hired property as reported at the census of 1890 was $10,335,160, for which $734,268 was paid as rent for tenancy, or 7.1 per cent. In 1900 the amount reported as paid for rent of land and buildings was $591,807, which, assuming that the earning power of property was the same, repre- sented a capital value of $8,335,310. The total amount of capital reported, $81,082,201, does not include the value of land and buildings rented. Compared with the census of 1890, the increase of aggregate capital is 59 per cent, and, specifically, land and buildings owned, 77.4 per cent; machinery, tools, and implements, 46.3 per cent; and cash and sundries, 60.7 per cent. The increase in the value of land and buildings owned, and the decrease in the value of land and buildings hired, as estimated, evidence the steadily growing prosperity of the industry. It is also interesting to note that in 1900 the value of finished goods produced for each dollar of capital invested was $1.14, as compared with $1.36 in 1890, and $1.80 in 1880. Table 13.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF CAPITAL, BY STATES: 1890 AND 1900. STATES. Year. Total. Land. Buildings. Machinery, tools, and im- plements. Cash and sun- dries. 1900 1890 881,082,201 51,007,537 82,045,093 1,691,060 $10, 205, 812 5,212,968 820,750,449 14,181,680 $48,080,847 29,921,229 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 U900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 U890 U900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 U890 = 1900 H890 308, 847 112,283 12, 166, 775 9, 037, 042 259,540 422, 096 3,600 29, 726 44,161 30, 409 2,061,799 1, 617, 538 95, 959 106, 200 231,360 81,874 282, 294 152,589 15,000 33, 000 1, 597, 352 1,143,200 26,000 60,000 8, 225, 330 6,123,715 123, 581 222, 896 50, 400 5, 649, 768 3,353,296 29,285,792 16,809,927 9,800,207 11, 165, 918 130, 376 6,000 216,341 77, 300 733,367 690, 919 202, 138 544,002 6,200 1,500 756, 454 287,500 2, 966, 084 1, 579, 160 586,224 832, 240 52, 000 12, 400 707, 345 591, 908 7, 297, 856 5, 039, 564 3,061,252 3, 612, 758 40,525 30,500 3, 969, 618 2, 396, 588 18,288,485 9,600,284 5,950,593 6, 176, 918 31, 651 37, 830 20, 894, 023 9,362,063 680,252 122, 256 594, 359 10, 000 491, 598 236, 850 24,955 5,000 3, 688, 545 1, 225, 652 96, 224 1,750 6, 696, 158 2,941,679 165,032 70,364 210, 200 21,080 10,017,722 4,957,882 394, 041 51,892 197, 119 12, 600 174, 440 1,312,272 534, 426 57,000 41, 000 233, 763 78, 716 370,162 157, 110 651, 347 257, 600 i Included in " all other states." 2 Includes statistics reported by establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. 3 Includes statistics reported by establishments distributed as follows: Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; Missouri, 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia, 1. 212 MANUFACTURES. WAGE-EARNERS AND OPERATIVES EMPLOYED. Table 14 presents the number of wage-earners — men, women, and children — by states, from 1870 to 1900, inclusive, with the percentage that each is of the total number. Table 14.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF WAGE-EARN- ERS, BY STATES: 1870, 1880, 1890, AND 1900. Year. NUMBER. PER CENT. 8TATES. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years "and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. United States . 1900 1890 1880 1870 65, 416 49, 382 31,337 6,649 24,206 17, 602 9,375 1,734 34, 797 28, 914 16, 396 3,529 6,413 2,866 5,566 1,386 37.0 35.6 29.9 26.1 53.2 58.6 52.3 53.1 9.8 6.8 17.8 20.8 1900 1890 1880 1870 1900 1890 1S80 1870 1900 1890 1880 1870 U900 1890 1880 1870 1900 1890 1880 1870 1900 1890 1880 1870 1900 1890 1880 1870 1900 ■1890 ' 1880 1)870 11900 1890 1880 1870 '1900 1890 1880 1870 117 203 151 24 49 20 91 152 106 2 2 25 20.5 24.1 13.2 77.8 74.9 70.2 1.7 1.0 16.6 Connecticut 6,514 4,964 3,428 1,703 412 756 259 2,763 1,540 785 466 81 157 67 3,585 3,301 1,990 1,003 310 589 135 166 123 653 234 21 10 57 42.4 31.0 22.9 27.4 19.7 20.8 25.9 55.0 66.5 58.0 58.9 75.2 77.9 52.1 2.6 2.5 19.1 13.7 5.1 1.3 22.0 72 82 28 12 41 56 14 38.9 14.6 61.1 68.3 17.1 Massachusetts New Jersey 3,110 2,993 1,826 453 24,157 17,445 12,549 2,790 7,861 12,719 9,633 739 209 1,102 977 353 97 11,279 7,773 4,696 733 3,149 4,456 2,405 154 35 1,837 1,928 1,285 286 11,679 8,773 5,360 1,162 4,299 7,983 5,459 413 119 171 88 188 70 1,199 899 2,493 895 413 280 1,769 172 55 35.4 32.6 19.3 21.4 46.7 44.6 37.4 26.3 40.1 35.0 25.0 20.8 16.8 59.1 64.4 70.4 63.1 48.3 50.3 42.7 41.6 54.7 62.8 56.7 65.9 56.9 5.5 3.0 10.3 15.5 6.0 6.1 19.9 32.1 5.2 North Carolina ... 2.2 18.3 23.3 26.3 i! p 36 135 8 I 21 28 73 , 22.2 41 |l 15.5 77.8 54.1 30.4 Pennsylvania 21,028 9,330 3,189 936 5,214 2,420 1,000 266 11,565 6,617 1,870 655 4, 249 1,293 319 15 24.8 25.9 31.4 28.4 55.0 60.2 58.6 70.0 20.2 13.9 10.0 1.6 Table 14.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY OF WAGE-EARN- ERS, BY STATES: 1870, 1880, 1890, AND 1900— Continued. Year. NUMBER. PER CENT. STATES. Total. Men, 16 years and over. Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Men, 16 years and over Wom- en, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. Rhode Island 1900 1890 U880 1870 1900 11890 1880 1870 21900 31890 ■11880 51870 455 186 124 49 326 107 5 30 27.3 26.4 71.6 57.5 1.1 16.1 473 144 228 101 30.4 48.2 21.4 All other states . . . 1,080 678 85 28 291 145 16 18 758 392 62 10 31 141 7 26.9 21.4 18.8 64.3 70.2 57.8 73.0 35.7 2.9 20.8 8.2 i Included in " all other states." i Included in "all other states." . 2 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. a Includes establishments distributed as'Iollows: Maine, 1; Michigan, 1; Missouri, 1; North Carolina, 1; Virginia, 1. . < Includes establishments distributed as follows: Kansas, 1; Maine, 1: Mis- souri, 1: New Hampshire, 1: Rhode Island, 1; Vermont, 1. 6 Includes establishments distributed as follows: New Hampshire, 1: Ver- mont, 1. Table 14 shows that in 1870 children were 20.8 per cent of the total operatives in the United States, and in 1900, 9.8 per cent, a marked decrease. During the same period the percentage of women remained the same, while that of men increased from 26.1 per cent cent to 37 per cent. This decrease in the percentage of children took place between 1870 and 1890, for since 1890 the percentage has increased slightly. In some states the decrease in the percentage of children is even more marked, ranging from 32.1 per cent to 5 per cent in New Jersey. In contrast to this, the proportion of children in Pennsylvania has increased during the entire period. It has already been remarked that the . prosperitjr of the throwing industry in this state is parti}*' due to the cheap unskilled labor obtainable in the smaller towns, and this increase in the proportion of children employed corroborates the statement. Table 15 presents the skilled and unskilled operatives, weavers, and spinners, winders, and warpers, including unskilled employees, by states, for 1900. Table 15 .—WAGE-EARNERS CLASSIFIED BY OCCUPATION, BY STATES: 1900. TOTAL. WEAVERS. SPINNERS, WINDERS, WARPERS, ETC. STATES. Total. Broad silks. Ribbons. Velvets and plushes. All other. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. Men. Wom- en. Chil- dren. United States.. 24,206 34, 797 6,413 15, 360 13, 057 667 8,917 9,188 235 3, 725 1,467 21 881 510 150 1,837 1,892 261 8,846 21,740 5,746 California Connecticut 24 2,763 81 1,102 11,279 3,149 35 5,214 124 144 291 91 3, 585 310 1,837 11,679 . 4,299 119 11,565 326 228 758 166 21 171 1,199 413 55 4,249 5 101 31 " 24 1,317 81 791 3,287 776 35 2,194 20 144 177 91 2,430 310 1,555 6, 861 2,802 81 6,649 170 216 569 2 1,446 1,149 39 448 441 21 200 7 565 141 412 367 32 127 21 Massachusetts... New Jersey New York North Carolina . . Pennsylvania ... Rhode Island 311 7, 992 2,373 3,020 104 114 282 4,818 1,497 38 4,916 156 12 189 8 116 98 301 5,491 899 208 3, 548 S24 38 3,777 156 12 40 602 203 10 691 361 34 763 450 8 75 86 163 38 2 1,762 1,014 3 10 48 109 5 20 1,083 315 55 401 1,645 74 191 885 617 1 149 10 344 150 341 20 278 69 3,848 5 101 All olher states i. 5 59 184 4 43 5 12 I-. 1 26 ilncludes the statistics reported by establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. SILK. 213 Table 15, considered in connection with Tables 6, 8, 9, and 10, presenting the number of looms, spindles, etc., indicates in a measure the relative position of the several states with reference to the production of the various silk products. COUNTIES LEADING IN SILK MANUFACTURE. Table 16 shows the number of establishments, capital, number of wage-earners, total wages, and value of products in counties manufacturing a product exceed- ing 11,000,000 in value. Table 16.— COUNTIES MANUFACTURING PRODUCTS EXCEEDING $1,000,000 IN VALUE: 1900. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. WAGE-EARNERS. Value of products. COUNTIES. Average number. Total wages. Connecticut: 5 3 6 10 $1, 207, 927 6, 340, 705 2,180,524 593, 933 903 2,546 1,181 581 $354,265 1, 064, 908 440, 427 162, 521 91,657,954 4,613,243 2, 316, 810 1, 360, 518 New London Tolland Massachusetts: 3 19 5 140 5 50 10 6 2, 768, 120 6,581,756 723, 766 19, 192, 756 1,656,930 4,428,148 859, 138 1, 718, 848 1,196 4,703 857 16,150 1,303 4,001 653 823 437, 412 1, 825, 996 248, 509 6, 366, 334 416, 323 1, 579, 314 287,199 344,330 2,584,214 7, 925, 620 1,424,837 26, 329, 792 2, 174, 705 6, 767, 544 1, 042, 199 1,632,651 New /ersey: New York: Pennsylvania: Lackawanna 14 5 13 8 2,392,256 524, 367 3,321,009 1,115,449 3,313 1,396 3,614 1,207 528, 433 284, 524 894, 152 229,520 4, 185, 179 1, 622, 494 4, 780, 909 1,513,833 Luzerne Northampton 10 1, 978, 804 1,947 469,281 3,249,776 Philadelphia Schuylkill* 28 3, 813, 532 2,506 826, 456 4,531,794 All other counties 2 9 4,329,575 3,244 861,495 7,264,660 1 Included in "all other counties." 2 Includes counties having less than 3 establishments, distributed as follows: Massachusetts: Hampden, 2; Pennsylvania: Blair, 1; Lycoming, 2- Northumber- land, 2; Schuylkill, 2. The leading counties in silk manufacture, according to Table 16, are Passaic, Hudson, and Warren, N. J. ; New York, Kings, and Queens counties, which are com- prised in the city of Greater New York; Lehigh, Phila- delphia, Lackawanna, and Northampton, Pa. ; Hartford and New London, Conn. ; and Hampshire, Mass. BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS. Table 17 presents, by states, the establishments man- ufacturing silk trimmings and braids, apportioning them among the silk, cotton, and woolen industries and showing the cost of the several textile materials used and the value of the products. The figures appearing under the headings "Cotton" and "Wool" do not appear elsewhere in the silk tables. To properly present the entire braids and trimmings industry, however, it was necessary to include them. It should also be noted that this table includes 19 establishments which, although manufacturing braids and trimmings as by-products, produce other silk goo.ds of greater value, and are classified as silk manufactories. In censuses prior to 1900 all establishments making braids and bindings, fringes and gimps, dress and cloak trimmings, millinery and military trimmings, etc., of which silk was a component material, were classed as silk establishments. At this census the number is lim- ited to those which have reported silk as the material of greatest value. If, as in previous censuses, all estab- lishments using silks were included, the gross product, as shown by Table 17, would be $7,785,699, and the number of establishments 105. In 1880 the reported production was 19,306,205; in 1890 it was $11,325,948. At the present census $4,059,053 is given as the product of 66 establishments classified as silk, $1,615,707 as the production of 26 establishments classified as cotton, and $2,110,939 as the production of 13 establishments classi- fied as woolen. The principal centers of the trimmings trade are New York city and Philadelphia, and the elimination of so many of these establishments from the silk tabulation in this census especially affects New York. Table 17.— BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, WITH COST OF TEXTILE MATERIALS, CLASSIFIED BY PRINCIPAL TEXTILE COMPONENTS, BY STATES: 1900. TOTAL. SILK. STATES. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Cost of textile materials. Value of products. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Cost of textile materials. Value of products. Total. $3, 083, 804 Silk. Cotton. Wool. Total. Silk. Cotton. Wool. 105 $1,330,298 $942, 715 $810, 791 $7, 785, 699 66 $1, 565, 417 $1, 037, 891 $272, 503 $265, 023 $4,059,053 5 4 11 8 51 21 5 20, 000 160, 210 261,532 93, 416 1,375,774 1,026,777 146, 095 18, 000 69, 421 120, 912 44, 751 501,691 442,353 133, 170 1,500 40, 063 68, 036 42,516 394, 989 399, 381 6,230 500 50, 726 82,584 6,149 479,094 185,043 6,695 38,685 421, 088 601, 425 262,963 3, 434, 980 2,798,278 228, 280 5 4 9 6 28 9 5 20, 000 160,210 230, 078 61,622 455, 625 491, 787 146, 095 18, 000 69,421 120, 912 44,151 316, 454 335,783 133,170 1,500 40, 063 26, 582 11,668 84,126 102,334 6,230 500 50, 726 82,584 5,803 56,045 63,670 6,695 38,685 421,088 533,527 162, 755 1,374,305 1,300,413 228,280 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: California, 2; Michigan, 1; Rhode Island, 214 MANUFACTURES. Table 17.— BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, WITH COST OF TEXTILE MATERIALS, CLASSIFIED BY PRINCIPAL TEXTILE COMPONENTS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. COTTON. WOOL. STATES. Num- ber ol estab- lish- ments. Cost of textile materials. Value of products. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Cost of textile materials. Value of products. Total. Silk. Cotton. Wool. Total. Silk. Cotton. Wool. 26 8680, 885 888, 132 8532, 549 860, 204 81, 615, 707 13 8837, 502 8204,275 $137, 663 8495,564 82, 110, 939 2 2 13 9 31,454 31, 794 319, 796 297, 841 31,454 30, 848 241,439 228,808 67,898 100,208 678, 017 769,584 600 29, 182 68, 350 346 49, 175 10, 683 10 3 600, 353 237,149 156,055 48,220 69,424 68,239 374 874 120, 690 1,382,658 728,281 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: California, 2; Michigan, 1; Rhode Island, 2. SKEIN DYEING, PIECE DYEING, PRINTING, AND FINISHING. The following tables present the statistics of dyeing, printing, and finishing silk goods and other textile yarns and silk-mixed fabrics, including both the work done in silk manufacturing establishments and that done in establishments engaged exclusively in dyeing, print- ing, and finishing. Table 18 shows the statistics of skein dyeing; Table 19, piece dyeing; Table 20, print- ing; and Table 21, finishing. Table 18.— SKEIN DYEING IN SILK MILLS AND DYEING PLANTS, FOR SILK MANUFACTURE, BY STATES: 1900. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Amounts charged for work done in dyeing plants. Aggregate. SILK. OTHER YAENS. STATES. Total. . Reeled. Spun. Total. Cotton. Wool. Colors. Black. Colors. Black. Colors. Black. Colors. Black. 95 Pounds. 12, 175, 988 Pounds. 9,875,477 Pounds. 5, 551, 313 Pounds. 3, 393, 871 Pounds. 621,043 Pounds. 309,250 Pounds. 2, 300, 511 Pounds. 1,067,589 Pounds. 1,049,215 Pounds. 100, 658 Pounds. 83, 049 58 37 5, 952, 391 6,223,697 3,936,970 6, 938, 507 1, 793, 955 3, 757, 358 1,541,785 1,852,086 425, 21t 195,827 176, 014 133, 236 2, 015, 421 285, 090 925,255 142, 334 981, 559 67, 656 62,658 48,000 55, 949 27, 100 Total In dyeing plants. 84,305,809 Connecticut: Silk mills 17 8 13 22 10 9 5 5 7 1 1,787,934 1, 150, 790 1,207,345 6, 064, 504 483, 921 669, 685 883, 035 484, 158 439, 366 5,250 1,223,435 707,432 1,098,655 5,057,639 188,124 391,460 285, 958 484, 158 433, 366 6,250 511,298 263, 700 838,582 3,175,932 98, 910 277, 869 29, 320 300, 957 52, 145 2,600 445, 999 350,083 - 257,844 1,661,078 54,431 72, 591 68, 023 115,817 365, 405 2,600 203, 181 71, 151 2,139 132,286 26,783 28,375 110, 100 35, 141 11, 862 25 62, 957 22,498 90 88,343 8,000 12,625 78,515 32,243 3,954 25 564,499 443, 358 108, 690 6,865 295,797 278, 225 597, 077 113, 830 122, 109 25,640 3,834 261, 322 138, 600 400,354 450, 669 224, 642 83,050 3,031 25, 475 64,626 196, 723 Massachusetts: Silk mills 45,658 50, 949 New Jersey: Sillf mills Dyeing plants 3,927,829 New York: Silk mills 5,000 48, 000 4,000 27, 100 Dyeing plants Pennsylvania: Silk mills 160, 063 215, 292 All other states: 1 Silk mills 6,000 2,000 1,000 2,000 2,625 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: California, 2; Illinois, 1; Maine, 1; Michigan, 2; Rhode Island, 1; Virginia, 1. Table 19.— PIECE DYEING IN SILK MILLS AND DYEING PLANTS, FOR SILK MANUFACTURE, BY STATES: 1900. United States. Total in silk mills Total in dyeing plants . New Jersey: Silk mills Dyeing plants . New York: Silk mills Dyeing plants . All other states: ' Silk mills Dyeing plants . Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. 23 Amounts charged for work done in dyeing plants. 8849, 294 773, 229 75, 498 ""567 Yards. 40, 484, 911 4, 464, 528 36,020,383 1,629,181 33, 679, 486 638, 310 2, 323, 647 2, 297, 037 17,250 All silk. Yards. 21,150,585 1,224,329 19,926,256 1,046,938 19,415,550 497, 768 177,391 12, 938 Silk and spun. Yards. 2, 044, 630 459, 693 1, 584, 937 110,000 1,580,625 349, 693 4,312 Silk and cotton. Yards. 17, 238,471 2,780,156 14, 458, 315 471,893 12,636,436 538, 310 1,821,879 1,769,953 Silk and wool. Yards. 51,225 350 50, 875 350 46,875 4,000 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Illinois, 1; Pennsylvania, 2. SILK. 215 Table 20.-SILK PRINTING IN SILK MILLS AND SILK-PRINTING PLANTS, FOR SILK MANUFACTURE, BY STATES: 1900. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Amounts charged for work done in silk- printing plants. Total. Printed in warps. PRINTED IN PIECES. STATES. Silk. Silk and spun. Silk and cotton. 12 Yards. 10, 239, 606 Yards. 329, 678 Yards. 4, 965, 893 Yards. 2, 775, 689 Yards. 2,168,346 4 8 3, 084, 811 7, 154, 795 16,355 313, 323 846, 704, 4,119,189' 1, 684, 624 1,091,165 637, 228 1,631,118 Total in silk-printing plants $419, 870 New Jersey: 2 4 2 4 76,586 5, 702, 500 3, 008, 225 1, 452, 295 7,500 313, 323 8, 855 69,-086 3,723,543 777, 618 395, 646 354, 148 1,055,165 1,684,524 36, 000 610, 469 537,228 1,020,649 All other states: ' Silk mills 65, 722 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Connecticut, 2; Massachusetts, 1; New York, 2; Pennsylvania, 1. Table 21.— SILK FINISHING IN SILK MILLS AND SILK-FINISHING PLANTS, FOR SILK MANUFACTURE, BY STATES: 1900. STATES. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Amounts charged for work done. Total. Total. Silk. Silk and cotton. Silk and wool. 54 Yards. 133,463,540 Pieces. 2, 228, 346 762,062 1,466,284 Pieces. 1, 462, 594 Pieces. 765,569 Pieces. 183 38 16 $981,740 44,616,500 88,847,040 472, 584 990, 010 289,362 476, 207 116 67 Connecticut: 7 15 6 5 9 7 4 1 13, 369, 510 17, 845, 930 41,706,480 4, 937, 520 47,123,280 7, 336, 140 1,127,400 17,280 240, 762 297, 949 680, 608 82, 292 785, 388 122, 269 18,790 288 71,986 268, 128 453,192 67, 240 536, 530 57, 161 8,069 288 168, 776 29, 767 227, 416 15,052 248, 791 65,046 10,721 New Jersey: 54 449,021 New York: 532, 436 67 Pennsylvania: 62 All other states: 1 283 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: California, 1; Illinois, 1; Maine, 1; Rhode Island, 1; Utah, 1. Owing to its importance as a distinct industry, the dyeing and finishing of textiles will be presented in a separate report at this census, as it was at the census of 1890. As the various operations of skein dyeing, piece dyeing, printing, and finishing are wholly, or partly done in many silk manufacturing plants, a tabulation has been made, covering not only the returns from the independent or professional dye works, print works, and finishing plants, but also those from silk manufac- turing plants, which, when combined, possess special interest for silk manufacturers, and, considered in con- junction with other tables presented in this report, embrace all the elements of the silk industry in the United States. The tables present the number of establishments engaged in the different classes of work, the quantity of goods handled, and the amount charged for the work done by dyeing, printing, and finishing establishments. Skein dyeing embraces all the yarns dyed for the silk industry in the census year. Piece dyeing, printing, and finishing embrace broad goods only, and do not include sewing silk, veilings, veils, etc. Ribbons are not included, as a given number of yards or pieces of rib- bon, without designating the width,has no significance. It is to be understood, therefore, that the returns for piece dyeing, printing, and finishing deal only with plain and fancy broad silks, Jacquards, piece-dyed weaves, velvets, plushes, tapestries, and upholstery silks. Data as to capital invested, operatives employed, wages paid, cost of materials used, and miscellaneous expenses of the independent or professional plants will be found in the separate report on " Dyeing and Fin- ishing of Textiles." The principal object of the forego- ing tables is to show the quantities of silk and other textile yarns and silk-mixed fabrics dyed, printed, and finished by and for silk manufacturers. Skein Dyeing. — Table 18 shows that there were 8,945,184 pounds of reeled silk, skein dyed in colors and black. The total consumption of reeled silk, including fringe and floss silk, in the census year was 9,828,754 pounds. The balance, 883,570 pounds, represents, with the exceptions noted below, goods woven in the grey and piece dyed. There were 930,293 pounds of spun silk, skein dyed 216 MANUFACTURES. in colors and black. The total consumption of spun silk was 1,774,124 pounds. The balance, 843,831 pounds, practically represents goods woven in the grey and piece dyed. The returns show 2,116,804 pounds of cotton, skein dyed in colors and black. The total consumption of cotton yarns by the silk industry was 6,664,069 pounds. The balance, 4,547,265 pounds, largely represents piece- dyed mixed goods. ' The returns show 183,707 pounds of woolen yarns, dyed in colors and black. The total consumption of wool and mohair yarns was 344,271 pounds. The bal- ance, 160,564 pounds, represents piece-dyed mixed goods. ' ' Other yarns " reported as raw materials in the census returns amount to 108,388 pounds. The marked tendency in recent years to the produc- tion of silk-mixed goods, comprising silk, cotton, and wool, and the interchange of the several fibers in the textile industries, reference to which has been made elsewhere in this report, is illustrated by the returns tabulated. In the cotton textile industry the consump- tion of raw-silk and spun-silk yarns has increased from 51,434 pounds in 1890 to 560,680 pounds in 1900. In the wool textile industry and its several branches the con- sumption of such materials has increased from 255,494 pounds to 323,884 pounds, and in the hosiery and knit- goods industry an increase from 120,341 pounds in 1890 to 266,247 pounds in 1900 is reported. A considerable quantity of skein-dyed silk yarn is now used as warps by the cotton and woolen manufacturers of New Eng- land. The great development of electricity in the United States has utilized a very considerable quantity of skein-dyed silk yarns in covering electric wires. Piece Dyeing, Printing, and FiNiSHiNG.-In addition to the piece dyeing of domestic goods, very large quan- tities of Habutai silks from Japan figure in the returns as dyed and finished in the United States; also cotton- back satins in considerable quantities from Switzerland, Germany, and Lyon, France. The redyeing and finishing in the United States of dress silks imported in colors, and later turned to other uses in the millinery and trimmings trade, and the re- finishing of imported taffetas to suit changed conditions of demand and use, help to account for the apparent large excess of yardage piece dyed and finished by pro- fessional plants over the figures of strictly domestic production of piece-dyed goods. Another consideration is the probable fact that the production of double-width taffetas, 18-36 inches to 27- 54 inches wide, in double pieces, may have been returned singly by the manufacturer and doubly by the dyer and finisher. Silk Printing. — What has been said respecting the piece dyeing of imported goods equally applies to the printing branch of the industry. Foreign-made goods imported in the grey are now printed here as success- fully as in Europe. The item "Amount charged for work done" in the tables indicates payments to the independent or profes- sional establishments, as follows: Skein dyeing $4,305,809 Piece dyeing 849,294 Printing 419,870 Finishing 981,740 Total 6, 556, 713 The proportion of this amount applicable to the silk manufacturers exclusively is included in the item "Con- tract work," under miscellaneous expenses, in the tables included in this report. From the foregoing descrip- tion of the methods of the business it is plainly evident that a part of these charges was for account of importers of foreign silks in the piece, and of the domestic users of skein-dyed yarns in other industries. The reported expense of dyeing, finishing, and printing is not the total value of the work performed in these branches of the industry, but represents only the amount charged by the independent or professional establishments, and does not include the value of such work done by silk manufacturers. As one price per yard is charged by a number of concerns which do both piece dyeing and finishing, the apportionment of the returns between these processes was estimated. The principal object of the tabulation was, as stated, to report quantities under the designated headings. The price charged for ' ' finish- ing" 88,829,760 yards by 15 professional establishments in New York and New Jersey is reported at $981,457. The current price for finishing all silk broad goods is 1 cent per yard, and mixed goods 2£ cents per yard. Other prices current in this branch of the industry are as follows: Piece dyeing (including finishing), all silk, 2£ to 3 cents per yard, and mixed goods, double the price charged for all silk goods. Printing (including finishing), 5 to 7 cents per yard, and warp printing, 7 to 12 cents per yard. In broad goods the average yardage per piece is 60 yards. Some pieces measure only 30 yards, but the great bulk of the production is in 50-yard and 60-yard pieces, while all the foreign cotton-back satins dyed in the United States average 75 yards per piece. CAPACITY OF AMERICAN MILLS. There are now in the United States silk manufac- turers who turn out over 100,000 pieces of 60 yards each per year, more than half being taffeta weaves; yarn dyers deliver uncharged silk in two days, black and colored organzine and tram, weighted 70 to 80 per cent, in five to six days and heavy charged silk in eight to fourteen days, it being possible to arrange for shorter deliveries when necessary. One yarn dyer is able to turn out and ship 4,500 pounds black and 3,000 pounds SILK. 217 colored daily. Finishing plants are now able to turn out 2,000 pieces per clay. Formerly all piece-dyed goods made abroad were dyed in Europe and finished there, but since 1897 the piece-dyeing and printing branches in the United States have greatly enlarged their facilities, and now dye and print not only large quantities of domestic raw goods, but also some im- ported goods. The domestic production of piece-dyed goods as shown b} T the census returns is presented in the following statement: Quantity. Value. All silk Yards. 7,331,501 8, 558, Wi4 S3, 342, 167 2,868,506 Total 15. 890, 385 6,210,673 During the last ten years every weave, article, and quality known to mechanical weaving, or which, through alterations on machinery or simplification in manufac- turing, could be put in reach of power-loom weaving, have been manufactured in the United States. With the exception only of a few Lyon specialties, which for different reasons are not suitable for mechanical weav- ing, every style which the silk industry brings to the market is manufactured in the silk mill of to-day, viz: Pure silk goods, silk and wool, and silk and cotton mixtures and spun-silk fabrics. Warp prints of all descriptions and piece-dj'ed and printed goods in every variety. Plain silks of all weaves; " fancies," from the sim- plest to the most complicated styles, and Jacquards, broches, etc. Light-weight goods, as chiffons, mousselines, mar- celines, and the heaviest curtain and upholstery silks. All the products of the various mills, including the great variety of dress silks, linings, and trimmings; goods for the cloak, necktie, and millinery trades; and silks for the manufacturers of silk waists, skirts, um- brellas, and parasols — all these give most convincing testimony to the many-sidedness of the American weaving mill. That the industry has in a compara- tively short space of time achieved such good results may be attributed to the enterprise and intelligence of its leading men, who readily experiment with new and untried methods regardless of trouble and expense, even if there is only small hope of success. The following is a statement in round numbers of the estimated value of the silk production of Europe and the United States in 1900, by countries, with the per- centage that the production of each country forms of the total production. This statement includes only the value of finished goods, and not that of partially manu- factured products. The several countries are pre- sented in the order of their importance in the manu- facture. SILK PRODUCTION OF EUROPE AND THE UNITED STATES: 1900. l Value of annual pro- duction. Per cent of pro- duction. 8122. 000. 000 92, 000, 000 73,000,000 36,000,000 21,000,000 17,000,000 15,000,000 13,000,000 4,000,000 30.9 United States 23.3 Germany 18.5 Switzerland 9.6 5.3 4.3 Great Britain 3.8 Italy 3.3 1.0 Total 395, 000, 000 100.0 1 Internationa] Universal Exposition at Paris: Report of United States Com- missioner Peck: Report on Silk Fabrics, contributed by Franklin Allen, juror of the United States in the silk section (class 83). Government Printing Olice, Washington, 1). U., 1901, page 565. RELATIVE POSITION OF FRANCE AND THE UNITED STATES. The annual production of France is claimed to be $122,000,000, distributed as follows: 1 Lyon $80, 000, 000 St. Etienne (ribbons) 20, 000, 000 Paris 6, 000, 000 Calais, Le Nord, etc 16, 000, 000 The Lyon manufactures, therefore, constitute nearly two-thirds of the production of France; they include, however, a considerable quantit}' of silk and cotton mixture (melange), the manufacture of which has been greatly developed at that city. The total is further swollen by including the foulards imported from Japan and China, which are valued at about 15,000,000 francs annually, and, being printed in Lj'on, are returned as Lyon manufactures with a value of 20,000,000 francs. Strictly speaking, the value of the silk woven in another countiy should not be included in any correct statement of the gross volume of the local production. France now consumes somewhat less raw silk than the United States, her consumption being estimated by the Lyon Chamber of Commerce at 9,000,000 pounds, while that of the United States during the census year was 9,760,770 pounds. New York city, the only raw-silk market in America, now holds the first place among the raw-silk markets of the world, Shanghai alone excepted. More raw silk is sold annually in New York than is consumed in France, which is the largest raw-silk con- suming country of Europe. As to the selling value of the product, the United States ranks second, being sur- passed by France, which still dominates, without serious competition, the world's markets in church ornaments and chasubles, and Parisian specialties representing the supremacy of Paris fashions for women's wear. Many 'From charts exhibited at the Paris Exposition of 1900, indi- cating the annual production of the principal silk manufacturing countries, prepared by Mr. Marius Morand, secretary of the Cham- ber of Commerce of Lyon. 218 MANUFACTURES. of these are made on handlooms, the quantities re- quired in different patterns and styles being so limited that their production in the United States by power- loom weaving would not be profitable. world's raw-silk supply. The quantity, character, and mercantile condition of the raw silk received from the several sources of supply are prime factors in the industry. The price of raw material also has an important influence. , Wide varia- tions in price are a great disadvantage. When, on the other hand, the maximum and minimum prices steadily maintain a narrow range the industry is benefited. Likewise the stimulation of raw-silk production through the development of new centers of industrial activity in silk manufacture, as in the United States, is a general benefit. Steadier and more moderate prices follow increased production, as a rule, and these in time encourage the use of silk in ever-widening channels; the cost. of raw silk to the consumer is thereby also greatly diminished. For instance, it is not so many years since the buyers of cocoons in Europe relied upon and received a profit of 10 to 20 francs a kilo for the reeled silk, or 87i cents to $1.75 a pound, and in the United States, in the earlier days of the industry, the importers of raw silk confidently counted upon an equal profit. The manufacturers of the United States natu- rally began to import on their own account, and as a re- sult of their competition with the importers, the differ- ence between the price here and the price abroad was reduced to less than $1 per pound. It is sufficient to say that to-day the competition is so healthful, owing to the increasing rivalry to which the United States has so largely contributed, that a small difference in the price per pound often determines whether the purchase is effected here or abroad. In "thrown oilk " the contrast is quite as great. Many men now living recall the time when the silk manufacturers paid as high as $4.50 a pound for the process of "throwing" organzine silk. Now the common price paid is from 60 to 75 cents per pound, depending upon the condition in which the silk is reeled where produced. Table 22 presents the total raw-silk production of the world, showing the production in detail of the several sources of supply, at five-year periods, from 1870 to 1900, inclusive, the weight being given in kilograms, and in the aggregate reduced to pounds. Table 22 — WORLD'S PRODUCTION OF RAW SILK, IN KILOGRAMS AND IN POCJNDS. COUNTRIES. 1900 1895 1890 1885 18801 1875 1 1870 2 Kilograms. 4,277,000 Kilograms. 4,761,000 Kilograms. 3, 830, 000 Kilograms. 3,520,000 Kilograms. 3, 608, 000 Kilograms. 3,456,800 Kilograms. 3, 817, 000 Italy 3, 363, 000 560,000 276, 000 78, 000 1, 760, 000 10, 730, 000 3,609,000 896, 000 266, 000 90,000 1,244,000 8,027,000 2, 880, 000 618, 000 267,000 65, 000 707,000 6, 783, 000 2,810,000 483,000 142, 000 85, 000 730,000 5, 676, 000 3,180,000 637, 000 727,000 6,242,000 760,400 5, 399, 700 3, 589, 400 4,756,000 2, 253, 000 3,371,000 350, 000 3, 358, 000 1, 394, 000 3,076,000 199, 000 2, 914, 000 1,529,000 2, 130, 000 210, 000 2, 695, 000 774, 000 1, 346, 000 861, 000 1,680,400 1, 018, 000 423,000 468, 000 16, 767, 000 36, 964, 528 14, 032, 000 30, 934, 947 11,320,000 24,956,072 9, 926, 000 21, 882, 860 10,577,000 23, 318, 054 9, 616, 900 21, 201, 418 7, 406, 400 16, 328, 149 1 Estimated from best information obtainable. 2 Trustworthy figures of the world's supply prior to 1870 can not be given. * Tussah silk not included. The following statement shows the quantity and in- voice value of raw silk imported into the United States in each decennial year from 1860 to 1900, inclusive, and the average cost per pound, taken from the " Reports of the Bureau of Statistics of the United States Treasury Department:" YEAR. Pounds. Invoice value. Average cost per pound. 297, 877 583,589 2,562,236 5,943,360 11,259,310 $1,340,676 3,017,958 12, 024, 699 23, 285, 099 44, 549, 672 $4.50 5.17 4.69 3.92 3.96 A rise of $1 per pound in the price to a country using, as the United States now does, about 10,000,000 pounds annually, means, therefore, an increase of about $ 10,000,000 in the cost of raw material, and must rep- resent that much financial loss to the manufacturers, unless recouped from the consumer. There have been great variations in the price mean- while, as is shown by the following quotations: In 1868 prices of raw silk averaged $8.43 per pound, the highest prices of Blue Elephant Tsatlee, Best Italian No. 1, and Japan May bash No. 2 averaging $9.29 per pound. In 1876 the highest prices of the same silks averaged $9.10 per pound. In 1894 the lowest prices prevailed, the lowest prices of the same silks averaging $2.94 per pound. Canton Filature Best No. 2 was quoted at $2. 61 per pound. The world's supply in that year was 31,860,879 pounds. SILK. 219 The recognition by silk reelers of the standards of merit required by the most progressive silk manufac- turers is also of great commercial and industrial im- portance. China and Japan are the two largest con- tributors to the world's supply from their surplus pro- duction. As a result of the close attention given by the progressive Japanese, to the requirements of silk manufacturers in the United States, a much larger pro- portion of the raw silk consumed in the United States is supplied by Japan than by any other country. The percentage of raw silk that each principal producing country contributes to the world's supply, according to the statistics for 1900, shown in Table 22, also the per- centage that each country contributes to the consump- tion of raw silk in the United States, as derived from the import statistics of the Treasury Department for the same period, are shown in the following statement: COUNTRIES. China Japan Italy France All other countries Percent of contribu- tion to world's supply. 41 8 20.1 20.1 3.3 14.7 100.0 Per cent of American consump- tion. 42.3 19.7 3.2 0.5 100.0 The production of raw silk in China is an absolutely unknown quantity. When prices in Europe and Amer- ica are relatively high the supply increases surpris- ingly. When prices are normal or low the supply decreases. It is manifest, however, that by closer attention to the United States market, China could greatly extend its raw-silk trade with this country. It is to be hoped that an effort will be successfully made to overcome the commercial indifference of Chinese merchants to the trade wants of their customers. The vast amount of capital invested and the large number of operatives employed in the silk industry throughout the world should be, it would seem, a commercial stim- ulus to China, the greatest producer of raw silk, to perfect its silk-reeling processes by the application of skilled labor, so as to secure a much larger share than now of the profits of a business in which the country has so many natural advantages. The profit of her reelers would be greater if the output of her filatures were better adapted to the requirements of foreign consumers. In Japan the domestic consumption of raw silk is usually estimated at about 50 per cent of the produc- tion, the remainder being exported. In Italy the domestic consumption is probably about 15 per cent of the production, the remaining 85 per cent being exported to supply the silk manufacturers of France, Switzerland, Germany, Russia, England, and the United States. DETAILED STATISTICS OF SILK MANUFACTURE. The detailed statistics for the industry as reported are shown in Table 23 at the end of the report. This table presents separate totals for each state in which there were 3 or more establishments, and groups the statistics for other -states so as not to disclose the operations of individual establishments. The establishments are 'classified according to the character of the ownership, which shows that 132 were owned by individuals, 154 by partnerships, and 197 by corporations. The em- ployees are segregated so as to show for salaried officers and wage-earners, separately, the number and salaries or wages of men, women, and children, respectively, and also the average number of wage-earners employed during each month of the year. Separate totals of the different materials and products are shown. The num- ber of machines, spindles, looms, etc., are presented, and the quantities of goods dyed, finished, and printed by silk manufacturing establishments performing such work; also the number of engines, water wheels, elec- tric motors, and other power in use, with their horse- power. The 483 establishments are grouped according to the number of employees in each. 220 MANUFACTURES. HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE. The silk industry has reached the point where its future seems assured as a permanent branch of the tex- tile industries of the United States, and, judged by the commercial effect that its establishment in this country has had upon improving and cheapening the processes of manufacture, and in lowering the cost of silk goods, every American can take pride in this industrial and commercial achievement. The silk maker's art in the United States was trans- planted from Europe, but, like many another trans- planted art, it has taken such a firm hold on the business activities of the country that it has become thoroughly domesticated. The beginning of the industry on this continent dates back to the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the Sixteenth century. At the beginning of the Seventeenth century King James I of England lent his royal favor by be- stowing upon the London Compan} r "plenty of silk- worms, seed of his own store being the best," and by this company the "seed" was sent out to Jamestown, Va., as one of the means of helping the early colonists. 1 Simultaneously with this effort of King James to develop silk culture in England and America, Henry of Navarre (Henry IV of France) brought 14,000 mul-" berry trees from Italy, which were planted in the royal gardens of France. 2 Silkworm eggs were also pro- cured from Italy, and other measures were taken by this patriotic king to encourage the nascent industiy in France. It is interesting now to note that the prime minister of the King, the great Duke Sully, looked coldly upon this enterprise, arguing that "Luxury should be repressed, most certainly not encouraged." But the King had been converted to the idea by Oliver de Serres, whom the French honor as "the father of agriculture," and was not moved by the arguments of the minister. Sully, referring to this matter in his Memoirs, 1603, says: "I could not persuade him. 'Are these,' the King said to me, 'the good reasons you have to offer ? 1 would much rather fight the King of Spain in three pitched battles than all those gentlemen of the robe, of the inkstand, and of the cit3 T , beside their wives and daughters, whom you will bring down upon me with your fantastic regulations.' " 3 The industry, thus encouraged in France three hun- dred years ago, made notable progress both as to culture and manufacture. In America, notwithstanding the efforts of essayists and the premiums and bounties offered by colonial assemblies and by the English Parliament, the planters could not be stirred to much activity in raising silk. Silk culture by the colonists 1 Silk Industry, Paris Exposition, 1867, by Hon. Elliott C. Cow- din, United States commissioner, Washington, D. C, 1868, page 7. Purchas, His Pilgrimes, Vol. IV, page 1777. 2 Tenth Census of the United States, Report on Silk Manu- facture, by William C. Wvckoff, special agent, page 1. 3 Memoirs of Sully, London, 1778, Vol. V, pages 150-159. would evidently have been a good thing for British manufacturers, but the record of history is that it had a fitful, uncertain existence. From 1750 to 1772, the period of its greatest activity before the Revolution, the export of raw silk averaged only 500 pounds per annum and rarely exceeded 1,000 pounds in a single year. 1 For many years after the War of the Revolution premiums and bounties for planting mulberry trees and for producing raw silk were authorized by a number of states. In New England, New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania, especially, great interest was taken in the subject. Dr. Ezra Stiles, president of Yale College, at New Haven, Conn., and Dr. Benjamin Franklin, of Philadelphia, were among the most notable promoters of the movement. In December, 1825, the subject of silk culture began to receive national attention, being brought before Congress by a resolution of inquiry in- troduced by Mr. Miner, of Pennsylvania, and referred to the Committee on Agriculture. This committee re- ported favorably in the spring of 1826, the report in- cluding a resolution directing the Secretary of the Treasury to cause to be prepared a well-digested manual on the growth and manufacture of silk. Inquiries for information on the subject were sent out by the Secre- tary, Mr. Richard Rush, in 1826; and from the replies and other material a manual was compiled entitled "Letter from the Secre'tai"y of the Treasury," dated February 7, 1828. Six thousand copies were printed by order of Congress. 5 This document became known as the "Rush Letter;" it contains 220 pages, besides illustrations of machinery, and is a carefully executed work. This favorable action and the publication by Con- gress at the same session, and at many subsequent ses- sions, of other documents relating to silk culture, together with the serious consideration of the subject by the Congressional Committee on Manufactures, as well as by the Committee on Agriculture, enlisted general attention. Sericulture gained the public ear. Legislatures of several states passed bills for its encouragement, and a most determined effort was made to place silk growing on a paying basis. For ten years all went well. Silk conventions were held in Mary- land, New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut, between December, 1838, and April, 1839, and there were many other gatherings devoted to the cause. What soon proved to be a disturbing element had, however, been introduced by an effort to supplant the white mulberry, Morus alba, on the leaves of which the worms had been fed, by the so-called Chinese mulberry, the Mwus multicaulis, on account of the superior qualities claimed 4 Tenth Census of the United States, Report on Silk Manufac- ture, by William C. Wyckoff, special agent, page 10. 5 H. R. Doc. 158, Twentieth Congress, first session. SILK. 221 for it. All the agricultural literature in the county soon became suffused with the descriptions of this wonderful tree. Speculation began, and prices of trees advanced far beyond their value. Large as were the anticipated profits of producing silk, the}' were insig- nificant as compared with the fortunes to be made by raising the new mulberry tree. Orchards of it were planted in every state in the Union. With increasing velocity the tide of speculation rose. Trees became of greater value than the silk which they could b}*- any possibility be the means of producing. One writer says: " Prices ranged for trees produced from one bud or cutting and of a single season's growth, from 5 cents to 10, 20, 50 cents, $1, and in some instances $5 apiece." 1 The list of stock companies formed for raising and manufacturing silk at this period is very long, but as Mr. William C. Wyckoff, writing the report on Silk Manufactures for the Tenth Census of the United States (1880), says of them, "Their lives were very short." The bubble burst in 1839. Silk culturists and manu- facturers had everywhere been swept into the rising current. As for the tree speculators, it is related that one who had been among the most successful sent an agent to France with $80,000 to buy trees and cuttings in the winter of 1838-39. Before the whole of his pur- chase had arrived the crisis had come. The nursery- man had failed for so large a sum that he could never reckon up his indebtedness, and the next spring his Mnlticaulis trees were offered in vain to the neighbor- ing farmers at $1 a hundred for pea brush. 2 Notwithstanding the favorable climatic conditions both in France and the United States for the growth of mulberry trees and the rearing of silk worms and cocoons, silk culture has dwindled in both countries, because more remunerative occupations are afforded by other lines of industry. Although in France the raisers of cocoons and reelers of silk are protected by a considerable bounty, payable by the French Gov- ernment to her citizens as against the Italians, that country produces less than 4 per cent of the world's supply of raw silk. Her silk manufacturers are well content to purchase, as America does, the raw silk from Italy, Japan, and China, in all of which countries the ruling rates of wages are much less than in France and very much less than in the United States. Both France and the United States pursue the same fiscal policy of admitting raw silk free of duty and therefore both are on a par in this respect. Under this policy France produces only a small portion of the raw silk needed for its silk manufactures, while in the United States silk culture, which was introduced simultaneously to its stimulation in France three hundred years ago, prac- tically ceased to exist in 1814, although since that date sporadic attempts to revive it have been made in Cali- 1 The Silk Industry of the United States from 1766 to 1874, by A. T. Lilly, Florence, Mass., 1875, page 8. 2 The Silk Industry of America, by L. P. Brockett, M. D., New York, 1876, page 40. fornia and more recently in Kansas and at Salt Lake City, Utah. Meanwhile, step by step, but slowty, improvements have been effected here in the manufacture of silk goods. The making of sewing silk became a house- hold industry in New England, at first by hand, and later by machinery. The manufacture of silk trim- mings of various kinds was commenced in 1815 at Philadelphia, and ribbons in 1829, at Baltimore. 3 The invention of the sewing machine in the United States developed a demand for "machine twist," a silk thread specially suited for use on sewing machines and first applied to that purpose in February, 1852. These goods, together with fringes, gimps, and tassels, and a few ribbons, continued to be the principal products of the silk industiy in the United States until the outbreak of the Civil War. One of the foremost silk manufacturers of the United States, the first vice-president of the Silk Association of America, in a recently published treatise on the silk textile industry, correctly sets forth the reasons for its powerful development in recent years, as follows: 4 As reasons for the rapid as well as powerful development of the United States silk industry, notwithstanding the competition of well-introduced imported goods and the splendid organization of the importers, and in spite of the mistrust which was felt by consumers for a long time against the domestic goods, we find: 1. The natural capability of the American merchant and manu- facturer, his common sense, enterprise, and self-confidence. 2. The capital which is always ready to support enterprise in this country in the form of extensive and liberal credits. 3. The support which is given all these undertakings by the people, by the city and state governments in form of tax privileges, donations of lots, putting up mill buildings, and renting same at a low rate of interest; even in some cases by subscribing a certain amount of the necessary working capital. 4. The intellectuality of the American technician, who through his inventions of time-saving machinery, which are simply con- structed and easy to handle, is, perhaps, unequaled. The operative also is moderate and his common sense makes him especially fit for the manufacturing business. 5. The easy intercourse between manufacturer and dealer which enables the first to get fully and promptly acquainted with the needs and wants of the consumer. The last point can not be too strongly emphasized. In a large sense the American manufacturer is his own merchant and distributer. He is in close touch with the dealers and retailei's, knows what they want, and manufactures according^. Silk manufacturers abroad (especially in France and Switzerland) are fully aware of this requisite to successful trade. The closer silk manufacturers get to the consumer, the greater the suc- cess they achieve. When to this genius for trade is added the unconquerable energy and persevering invent- iveness of the silk manufacturer in the United States; the superior intelligence and push of the operatives, both skilled and unskilled; the perfection of methods 3 Manual of American Silk Trade, 1873, by Franklin Allen, sec- retary of the Silk Association of America, New York, pages 22-23. 4 Twenty-ninth Annual Report of the Silk Association of Amer- ica, New York, March 26, 1891, pages 48 and 49. 222 MANUFACTURES. by "throwsters" in rapidity, certainty, and economy; the simplicity of high-speed looms in weaving; quick deliveries and perfectly satisfactory work in yarn dye- ing, piece dyeing, finishing, and printing; and the ready adoption, at whatever cost, of every improvement known anywhere in silk manufacturing, the general excellence of the product manufactured in the United States, and its consequent success, is accounted for. In England the silk industry has suffered a great decline since 1860. In recent years leading manu- facturers there have emphasized the importance of specially organized technical schools for the education of artisans and for teaching drawing and designing to selected pupils. In the United States every large silk plant is a school of design, a teacher of scientific and technical education. All such plants have a corps of skillful designers, and many are in touch' with artists and establishments abroad, whence is derived the latest information concerning novelties in all lines of manufacture. Skillful chemists are likewise attached to these plants, and, in fact, all processes of the indus- try proceed simultaneously under one management. To the clerk and workman is given a certain independ- ence and freedom of action, no restraint being put upon his enterprise. Fulfillment of his duty is all that is required. That such a system improves the working methods and produces better results is plainly evident from the census figures. IMPROVEMENTS IN THROWING AND WEAVING MACHINERY. Throwing. — The past decade has not been marked by many changes in the throwing of silk. Efforts have been concentrated upon increasing labor efficiency, in saving waste, and similar economies, demanded by the constantly decreasing scale of prices. Larger mills have been built and equipped with the most modern appliances for heating, lighting, power, and manufac- turing; smaller mills have been consolidated into larger establishments, thus lessening the general expenses; antiquated and worn-out equipments have been replaced by modern and more economical machines, the constant effort being to reduce cost of production. The success achieved has not, however, kept pace with the reduc- tion in price of the product; and the throwster during these years has been confronted more or less with the problem of constantly increasing wages demanded by operatives, and decreasing prices paid by the manufac- turers. As regards machinery, the principal efforts have been to save space and processes; winding frames have been improved so as to produce more perfectly wound spools at higher speed, and obviate the necessity for redraw- ing. In the latest improved winding frame the bobbin is carried by a spindle having two heads resting upon the driving wheels, its bearings being supported upon inclined planes that sustain most of the weight, yet force the spindle into sufficient contact with the friction wheel to secure a positive drive, the double support allowing high speed without throwing out the spindle. Double-decking the winding frame has also been adopted by some to economize space and has some merits, though not generally adopted. The doubling frame has also been perfected, allowing the work to be done at about double the speed and with better results; the old "flyer" and "jack-pin" system has been displaced by a cap on the Bobbin, by means of which the thread can be drawn off naturally and the desired tension applied alike upon the assembled threads. In spinning, the belt system, so called, where the spindles are driven by contact with an endless belt in- stead of with bands, has been adopted in all new instal- lations. The many advantages of this type of frame were at once recognized, and at the present date over one-half of the spinning spindles in the country are of this system, although only first practically introduced in 1889. This belt-drive system adapted to the modern self-oiling spindle instantly won favor and adoption. A double-deck machine of this type quickty followed, giving double the number of spindles in the same space, still further solving the problem of economy and being generally adopted. In 1895 a combined spinner and doubler was designed, and it was soon evident that this invention had solved another great expense-saving problem and at the same time effected an improve- ment in the quality of the product. In the few years the last system has been practically upon the market 90,000 spindles have been put in use, or 15 per cent of the total number of first-time spindles. The system has, moreover, been introduced into several foreign countries, and it has been adopted by the technical schools of England and Switzerland as the most practi- cal system of spinning organzine. This is a very sub- stantial acknowledgment of the superiority of United States machinery for silk throwing over that of the rest of the world. During the past ten years efforts have been made to solve the problem of spinning, doubling, and twisting organzine in one process, which have finally resulted in the production of a practical machine, but of the old band-drive system. A machine for this system of the belt-drive type, for which is claimed greater sim- plicity combined with increased effectiveness, has also been designed. It is too early as yet to say what the future of these machines will' be, but they promise a large percentage of saving in the cost of production, with a decided improvement in quality, and at the same time a reduction in the cost of the equipment of a plant. While during the past decade there have not been such great changes in throwing appliances as distin- guished previous decades, there have been many marked improvements on the lines so briefly mentioned, and it can be said, from personal observation in many of the largest spinning mills in Europe, that in every step of SILK. 223 this branch of the silk industry the United States ex- cels; our operatives tend a larger number of spindles; and, in spite of the higher wages paid here, the cost of production, pound for pound, aside from fuel and rents, will in nearly every case prove to be the lowest in the world. The results from improvements in throwing ma- chinery during the past decade can therefore be broadly summed up in the statement that these improvements have made possible a saving of about 40 per cent in the floor space needed and about 20 per cent in cost of production over the older system, figuring all the sav- ings resulting from less floor space, power, and pro- cesses required to turn out a corresponding amount of work. Weaving. — The rapid strides made in the develop- ment of the power loom, together with the skill of American labor, have made the substitution of power looms for hand looms, which has been a noticeable fea- ture of the industry for the last three decades, especially marked during the past decade, so much so that the sta- tistics indicate the practically complete supersession of the hand loom by the power loom, there being in use, as reported, but 173 of the former as compared with 44,257 of the latter. There are in successful operation in the silk mills of the United States to-day nearly two and a half times as many power looms as there were ten years ago. While improvements have been made constantly in the con- struction of these power looms ever since their intro- duction, probably the past ten years have witnessed the most rapid strides in this direction. These im- provements have resulted in the production of a loom of high efficiency, equipped with mechanical devices designed for the saving of both time, labor, and mate- rial, such as the numerous multipliers, two-weave, leno, swivel, embroidery motions, and many other devices, all arranged to operate automatically, by the use of which marvelous results may be obtained. Formerly the accomplishment of some of the above results, if possible at all on the power loom, required the use of a long pattern or indicator chain. Some of the principal progress has consisted in the invention of devices for facilitating the saving of such materials as this pattern or indicator chain. By dispensing with this long and cumbersome attachment the loom is made capable of mwch higher speed. Among the multipliers particularly worthy of men- tion, in addition to the well-known multiplier for the box chain, whereby any shuttle box may be called at will, and any color used as long as desired, is the so- called two-weave multiplier, by the use of which two distinct weaves are produced in the loom and indicated from the same pattern chain. Another multiplier, known as the manifold multiplier, consists of a mechanical device which, when used in addition to the two-weave motion, makes it possible to produce three or more distinct weaves in the loom; each weave may be entirely different from the others. In fact, there is hardly any limit to the number of weaves that may be produced by the use of this mechanism, the change from one weave to the other being made auto- matically when the loom is in full operation. Among the many other improvements, the progress made in producing leno effects might be mentioned. Present methods and attachments for producing this class of work are far in advance of the old methods, resulting in much saving of doups and in less breakage of warp threads. The old method of using two beams, one for the whip thread and one for the standard thread, is now general^ superseded by taking all the threads from one beam, unless the pattern calls for a design in which the whip thread is longer than the standard thread. Slackeners are used only on such threads as require them, instead of rocking the whole warp beam. The lappet motion has also been successfully applied to different types of looms during recent years, and at the present time these motions are built with one, two, three, and four bars or rows of needles, producing some beautiful effects on the surface of the goods. The cross-weave loom produces a novel open-work effect in the woven fabric. A series of forked needles engages, as desired, selected groups of warp threads and crosses them over adjacent groups previous to the forming of the shed. After the passing of the shuttle and the beating up of the lay, the warp threads resume their normal position for plain weaving until again called for the cross-over process. A recent improve- ment produces an undulating or wavy effect bj r virtue of a movable reed, whose dents are inclined at differ- ent angles instead of being parallel, alternate groups of dents spreading upward, and intermediate groups spreading downward, so that the gradual raising and lowering of the reed produces a spreading of the warp threads at one point and a closing up at another. The embroidery loom was especially designed for the purpose of making a figure on a light ground of cloth while the cloth is being woven, without waste of stock or material. Although the ground may be a light weight of goods, the figure is thick and compact in appearance. This effect can not be produced on a regular broad-silk loom, as the filling, when not wanted to show in the figure, must be buried in the body of the goods, and, moreover, for this reason there is a con- siderable waste of material. Swivel looms built to-day have one, two, or three banks of swivel shuttles, so that it is possible to put as many as three colors in each figure at will with almost no loss or waste of material. The principal difference between the swivel and embroidery looms as built to-day is that in the former the figures are usually arranged a certain distance apart in the goods, while in the latter a figure the entire width of the goods ma3 T be made if desired. 224 MANUFACTURES. Outside of these special features there are many types of what might be termed standard looms used to-day for the manufacture of broad silks. In this con- nection special mention should be made of the improve- ment by which all classes of taffeta effects, formerly made on hand looms only, are now successfully made on power looms. The highest type of loom designed for best grades of fabrics, both plain and fancy, is fitted with a positive head motion by which the harnesses or shafts are posi- tively raised and lowered. The dobby loom is similar in construction to the above-mentioned loom, but a dobby is substituted in place of the positive head motion, the harness shafts being raised by the dobby but pulled down by springs. The cam loom, the har- ness shafts being controlled by cams which are posi- tive in their action, is somewhat limited in weaves and designs by reason of the weave being dependent on these cams. On the two first-mentioned classes of looms almost any weave may be produced, the head motion or the dobby being controlled by means of a pattern chain which can be changed or made over at will. On the Jacquard loom the weave is controlled entirely by the Jacquard. On all of these types of looms shuttle- box motions of different capacities may be employed, allowing the use of from one to seven colors. In the Jacquard, which forms so important a factor in the production of broad silks, there has been nearly as much improvement as in the loom itself, particularly as regards the saving of cards and increased speed. The - present double-cylinder cross-border machine ac- complishes about the same result on the loom as does the manifold multiplier described above. Attachments are now added to the Jacquard so that, through a suit- able intermediate mechanism, the pattern or box chain is not required at all on the loom, the Jacquard cards being so punched that the shuttle boxes are controlled by the Jacquard, thus obviating the possibility of the Jacquard getting out of time with the shuttle boxes of the loom. In addition to the many improvements referred to in looms designed for broad silks, the changes that have taken place in the development of the ribbon loom must not be overlooked. These looms, as built to-day, ara capable of very high speed, and show a great advance over the "Swiss" and "German" types of looms which were almost universally used in this country ten or fifteen years ago. The modern ribbon loom was first designed and built in this country and has been con- stantly improved, until to-day it has reached a very high state of perfection. Under the old uiethod of handling the warp it was necessary to employ men on the looms. Under the present arrangement of the loom the warp is placed on beams similar to broad-silk looms, and each individual warp is let off automatically from each beam, making it entirely unnecessary for the weaver to go behind the loom for this purpose. The best type of ribbon loom, the high-speed auto- matic, embodies all the latest improvements of construc- tion; it is adapted to high-grade Jacquard work, where high speed has been slow of adoption, and to single- shuttle Jacquard work on labels, etc. ; it has the auto- matic let-off system for the warps, is capable of a more uniform weave than the old machine, and has greater a productive capacity. There has recently been perfected a very efficient silk- velvet ribbon loom which is destined to fill a very im- portant place in the ribbon industry. This loom will produce the best quality of silk-velvet ribbon at a very high speed for this class of work, the pile being cut automatically in the loom. It is one of the latest tri- umphs of American skill in the art of weaving. ■ The modern power loom is the result of much study and inventive genius, and with it to-day can be pro- duced many fabrics which ten years ago it was impos- sible to make except by hand. Nowhere has this devel- opment been so pronounced and successful as in the United States. DATE OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE SILK INDUSTRY IN CITIES, TOWNS, ETC. Incident to the growth of the industry, silk mills have been established in nearly all the New England and Middle states and in some of the Western and Southern states. Pennsylvania has been the greatest gainer in this respect during the last decade. Delaware, Virginia, and North Carolina have also attracted silk mills by liberal inducements to manufacturers. The dates of starting the silk industry in the Nine- teenth century in some of the more important places in various states, and the classes of goods, are shown in the following statement. It should be understood that in order to avoid duplication of towns in this statement only the first date at which any branch of the industry was inaugurated is given. Thus, in Philadelphia, when W. H. Horstman commenced the manufacture of dress trimmings, 1815 is mentioned, whereas the commence- ment there of the manufacture of sewing silk in 1843 and of ribbons in 1852 are omitted. YEAR. Place. Class of goods. 1815 PENNSYLVANIA. Dress trimmings. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and broad silks. 1879 1880 1881 1881 Darby Spun-silk yams. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Spun silk, laces, and braids. Tram, organzine, and broad silks. Tram, organzine, broad silks, and rib- bons. 1883 1886 1886 1886 1886 1886 1HM0 1886 Surah and figured pongees. 1887 Honesdale 1887 18X7 1887 Pittston. bons. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and broad silks. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and broad silks. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Silk and cotton curtains. 1888 1888 1888 1891 1891 Eden SILK. 225 1892. 1892. 1893.. 1894.. 1895.. 1895.. 1896.. 1896.. 1896. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. 1897. Place. 1898. 1898. 1899. 1899. 1899. 1899. 1899. 1899. 1900. 1900. 1900. 1900. 1900. 1900. 1900. 1829. 1889. 1810. . 1814. . 1835.. 1838. 1838.. 1844.. 1849. 1863. 1866. 1872. 1873. 1874. 1874. 1S78. 1879. 1882. 1882. 1891. 1892. 1S9S. 189.S. 1840.. 1842.. 1865. 1868 1868. 1870. 1874. 1875. 1880. penns y lv ania — continued. Columbia Hanover Emaus Williamsport . . Hallstead Carbondale Taylor Avoca Marietta Sunbury Alburtis Bath Danville Ephrata Fleetwood Freeland Plymouth Pottstown Titusville Athens Coatesville Dunmore Hazelton Jermyn Lancaster Newberry New Holland. New Hope — Parsons Phoenixville . WestPittston. York Aquashicola. . Dickson City . Class of goods. 1832... 1834... 1834-38... 1835... 1840. . . 1848... 1874... 1878... 1880... 1882... 1884... 1886... 1890. . . Forest City Kutztown Lansdale Lehighton Lock Haven Reynoldsville Richland Center . Shamokin Topton Bradford Butler Meadville Pennsburg Eenovo Weissport White Haven — MARYLAND. Baltimore . . . Hagerstown . Ilchester MASSACHUSETTS. Northampton , Boston Florence Dedham Canton Skinnerville Holyoke Pittsfleld Springfield Athol Worcester Newton Upper Falls. . Sandwich CONNECTICUT. Mansfield Gurleyville Hartford South Manchester. Windsor Locks South Coventry . . . Watertown Rockville Willimantic Middletown West Winsted Norfolk Warehouse Point.. Putnam New London Bridgeport Preston Norwich Stonington Mystic Shelton NEW JERSEY. Paterson Newark Trenton Hoboken Homestead West Hoboken . Wortendyke.... Union Boonton Tram, organzine, and broad silks. Silk ribbons. Broad silks. Broad silks. Ribbons and narrow fabrics. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Dress silks. Broad silks. Brocades. Dress and tie silks. Tram and organzine. Broad silks. Broad silks. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Sewing silk. Ribbons. Broad and tie silks. Tram, organzine, and broad silks. Plain and dress silks. Umbrella silks. Tram and organzine. Broad silks. Dress goods. Broad and tie silks. Broad silks. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and ribbons. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and ribbons. Ribbons. Tram, organzine, handkerchiefs, and mutters. Organzine. Tram and organzine. Dress and umbrella silks. Ribbons. Broad silks. Broad silks. Broad silks. Pongees and surahs. Dress and tie silks. Tram and organzine. Dress silks. Broad silks. Ribbons. Broad silks. Tram and organzine. Tram and organzine. Ribbons. Ribbons. Pongees. Sewing silk. Dress trimmings. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk, braids, and linings. Sewing silk. Silk and mohair braids. Sewing silk. Silk bindings and picot ribbons. 1880.. 1881.. 1886.. 1887.. 1888. 1888. 1888.. 1889. 1889. 1890. 1891. 1891. 1893. 1894. 1895. 1895. 1896. 1898. 1899. 1900. 1864. 1899. 1830. . 1841.. 1866. 1871. 1872. 1882. 1885. 1886. 1887. 1887. 1889.. 1891.. 1892.. 1892. . 1892. 1892. . 1892. . 1893.. 1896.. 1897. 1897. 1899. 1899. 1899. 1899. Spun-silk yarns. "ilk and mohair braids. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Silk and tuscan braid. General silk manufacture. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Machine twist and sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Machine twist. Sewing silk. Dress silks. Tram and organzine. Ribbons and hatbands. Silk velvets. Silk velvets. Silk velvets and ribbons. General silk manufacture. Sewing silk. Coach lace. Silk dress goods. Broad silks. Broad silks. Silk handkerchiefs and dress goods. Silk dress goods. Tram,"organzine, and broad silks. 1887. 1899. 1887. 1889. 1900. 1888. 1899. 1900. 1889. 1897. 1900. Place. new jersey — continued. Hackensack Dover Phillipsburg Hackettstown . . . Stirling Midland Park... Port Oram. Lakeview Pompton Lakes. Guttenberg Lodi Washington . Summit Jersey City . . Bulvidere Watsessing . . Newton Passaic Plainfield . . . Hillsdale Chicago . Alpine . . NEW YORK. New York Auburn Oneida Brooklyn College Point Sloatsburg Hornellsville Fultonville Norwich Whitehall. Long Island City . . . Matteawan . Spring Valley Clark Mills Elmira Delhi West New Brighton . Unionville Fort Plain Newburg Watertown . . Port Jervis . . Yonkers Fort Hunter. Glendale Haverstraw . Ineonta CALIFORNIA. San Francisco MAINE. Westbrook UTAH. Salt Lake City . . . Piqua . Toledo MICHIGAN. Belcling . Detroit . . WISCONSIN. Janesville . . Milwaukee . Petersburg Fredericksburg . Norfolk NORTH CAROLINA. Wadesboro Fayetteville Roanoke Rapids. RHODE ISLAND. Pawtucket Newport Wyoming Bristol NEW HAMPSHIRE. 1891 Contoocook . 1898 Newmarket. 1898 Lebanon — 1900 1 Lisbon 1899. 1899. Class of goods. Broad silks. Tram and organzine. Broad and dress silks. Tram and organzine. Broad silks. Tie and dress silks. Silk linings and dress silks. Umbrella silks, veils and veiling, anc". black taffetas. Dyeing and finishing silk piece goods Taffetas, furriers' satin, and brocades. Broad silks. Dress silks. Tram and organzine. Dress silks and linings. Broad silks. Silk veilings. Dress silks. Broad silks. Dress trimmings. Silk curtains. Dress trimmings. Sewing silk. Sewing silk. Silk laces. Ribbons. Spun silk. Tram and organzine. Silk gloves and mittens. Ribbons. Silk plushes. Tram and organzine. Tram, organzine, and sewing silk. Seal plushes. Tram and organzine. Broad silks. Labels, etc. Ribbons. Tram and organzine. Pongees, surah, taffetas, linings, anc broad silks. Dress silks. Tram and organzine. Ribbons. Novelties and linings. Ribbons. Dress silks. Broad silks. Sewing silk and fringe silk. Spool silks. Handkerchiefs and dress goods. Silk hosiery. Knit goods. Sewing silk. Mittens, gloves, and hosiery. Silk underwear. Knit goods. Spinning and dyeing. Tram and organzine. Broad and tie silks. Tram and organzine. Dress and tie silks. Wide pongees. Silk-mixed linings. Elastic webbing. Lining silks. Curtains and portieres Tram and organzine. Silk and cotton mulls and pongees. Underwear. Cotton and silk covered wire. DELAWARE. Dover Dress silks. Wilmington '.'. Black and colored taffetas. MON- -TEXT- -15 226 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— SILK AND SILK GOODS, INCLUDING Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership. Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements. Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries * Officers of corporations — Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries Men — Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year . Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages ' Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January ■ February March April May June July August September , October - November December Women, 16 years and over — January February March April May June July August September October November December Children, under 16 years- January February March April May June July , August September October November December United States. Weavers: Broad silk — Men Women Children Ribbons- Men Women Children Velvets and plushes- Men Women Children Other- Men Women Children 483 132 154 197 11,082,201 12,045,093 0,205,812 :0, 750, 449 :8, 080, 847 477 2,657 3,134,352 304 $769, 771 2,353 12, 364, 581 2,078 2,240,552 275 8124,029 75, 110 56, 959 65,416 $20,982,194 24, 206 $10,699,483 34, 797 $9, 377, 696 6,413 $905,015 24, 197 24, 729 25,024 25,200 24, 752 23,855 23,792 23, 829 23,797 23, 749 23,801 23, 747 34, 742 36,340 36, 221 36, 038 35,362 34,402 33,822 34, 137 34, 045 34, 309 34,517 34,639 6,260 6,267 6,410 6,664 6,537 6,602 6,417 6, 381 6,386 6,349 6,429 6,454 8,917 9,188 235 8,725 1,467 21 SSI 510 150 1,837 1,892 261 California. $308, 847 $3,600 $29, 726 $44, 161 $231, 360 6 $4,998 $4,630 1 $468 142 82 117 $33,055 24 $14,436 91 $18, 119 2 $600 25 26 26 23 23 22 18 22 24 26 27 27 95 91 86 86 S2 64 88 91 99 106 105 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 Connecticut. 14 4 20 $12,166,775 $282,294 $1,597,352 $2, 061, 799 $8,225,330 23 $403,423 $103,090 257 $284, 352 7,400 5,883 6,514 $2,392,873 2,763 $1, 350, 543 3,585 $1,013,498 166 $28,832 2,677 2,710 2,708 2, 785 2,745 2,618 2,711 2,730 2,855 2,947 2,967 2,701 3,501 3,581 3,659 3,719 3,658 3,534 3,542 3,515 3,497 3^589 3,662 3,666 149 156 164 169 164 164 163 164 170 170 187 177 448 441 Illinois. 21 200 7 565 141 412 367 32 $259, 540 $15,000 $25, 000 $95, 959 $123,581 33 $51, 180 5 $13,000 28 $38, 180 24 $35,200 4 $2, 980 507 315 412 $121, 644 81 $43,475 310 $73, 919 21 $4,250 S2 82 86 66 65 75 SI 319 367 363 356 293 265 238 253 288 340 335 21 23 23 27 25 19 15 14 19 22 23 21 SILK. 227 BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, BY STATES: 1900. Massachusetts. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Virginia. All other states. ' 20 180 92 3 121 6 3 11 1 6 51 32 1 19 3 1 1 2 3 11 63 66 34 26 47 55 1 1 1 9 3 2 3 4 85.649,758 $216, 341 829,285,792 $9, 800, 207 8130, 376 $20, 894, 023 $680, 252 $594, 359 $1,312,272 5 $733, 367 $202, 138 $6, 200 $491, 598 $24, 955 $12, 600 857, 000 8756,454 82, 966, 084 $586,224 852, 000 $3,688,545 $96, 224 $174, 440 8233, 763 7 8707,345 87,297,856 83,061,252 840, 525 $6,696,158 $165,032 $210,200 $370, 162 8 83,969.618 $18,288,485 $5, 950, 593 831,651 $10, 017, 722 $394, 041 8197, 119 8651, 347 9 11 197 91 1 131 3 2 8 10 156 959 363 11 745 8 12 41 11 8227, 276 81,144 512 8514,439 $3,455 $718, 776 $12, 320 $12,678 $41,295 12 20 98 41 6 88 3 1 13 13 851,850 $269,368 $163, 891 $876 $144, 462 $9,200 $1,000 $13,035 14 136 861 322 5 657 5 11 28 15 $175,426 8875.144 8350. 648 $2, 580 8574, 314 83,120 $11, 678 $28,260 16 115 787 298 5 549 4 10 24 17 $166,772 $840, 337 8338, 784 $2, 580 8528,243 82,320 $11,314 $26, 120 18 21 $8,654 74 834,807 24 $11,764 108 $46, 071 1 8800 1 $364 4 $2, 140 19 20 3.465 27,162 9,330 265 24, 424 563 518 1,334 21 2,953 20,784 6,663 255 18,496 365 429 834 22 3,110 24,157 7,861 209 21,028 455 473 1,080 23 81,110 324 89,232,532 $2,861,818 $25, 420 $4, 629, 626 $166,675 8165,056 8303, 171 24 1,102 11,279 3,149 35 5,214 124 144 291 25 8506, 282 $5,296,102 $1,509,660 88, 827 $1,718,687 882,240 $61, 294 $108, 037 26 1,837 11,679 4,299 119 11, 565 326 228 758 27 8562. 989 $3,731,827 $1,293,875 $13, 331 $2, 363, 123 883, 664 $31, 885 $191, 466 28 171 1,199 413 65 4,249 5 101 31 29 841,053 $204, 603 858,283 83,262 $547, 916 8771 $11,877 $3,668 30 1,067 11,247 3,266 38 6,262 109 137 287 31 1,094 11 540 3,361 38 5,326 118 147 287 32 1 099 11,676 3,429 38 6,402 114 150 294 33 1,100 11,699 3,366 48 5,534 108 149 302 34 1,089 11,605 3,165 48 5,455 123 145 268 35 1,057 11.324 2,865 38 5,322 124 148 271 36 1,078 11,395 2,889 20 5,077 128 147 264 37 1,095 11,237 3,032 20 5,064 125 143 286 38 1,116 10, 984 3,095 20 5,043 131 145 303 39 1,144 10, 786 3,136 38 5,005 138 132 309 10 1,153 10,791 3,101 38 5,054 137 145 302 41 1,131 11,070 3,077 38 5, 027 138 134 323 42 1,776 11,696 4,492 138 11,617 224 221 660 43 1,855 11,861 4,501 138 11, 788 231 221 702 44 1,951 12, 055 4,698 138 12,019 256 222 769 45 1,934 12,012 4,515 158 11,989 276 221 772 46 1,870 11.946 4,149 158 11,873 330 212 777 47 1,732 11,701 3,920 138 11, 747 350 249 684 48 1,697 11,683 3,944 50 11,264 354 241 745 49 1,732 11,564 4,132 60 11,455 346 239 763 50 1,835 11, 378 4,266 50 11,248 369 240 783 51 1,921 11, 261 4,376 138 11,145 384 229 827 5? 1,841 11,427 4,324 138 11,270 391 222 801 53 1,901 11, 561 4,266 138 11, 364 400 218 814 54 143 1,164 408 54 4,184 3 101 31 55 157 1,157 406 64 4,lb3 3 104 43 .",l 158 1,175 428 54 4,248 3 108 47 57 170 1,230 445 59 4,316 4 103 40 58 168 1,221 430 59 4,326 4 112 27 5S 165 1,203 408 54 4,363 4 93 28 a 170 1,212 411 54 4,256 10 102 23 61 167 176 1,219 1,216 398 397 54 54 4,238 4,219 9 8 95 101 22 26 65 a: 193 195 1,190 1,201 390 420 54 54 4,202 4,212 3 3 96 103 27 29 64 (if 190 1,202 421 54 4,256 3 100 28 lit I 301 208 5,491 3,548 38 1,762 502 3 48 5 899 824 2 1,014 203 1,645 3,777 191 885 517 74 156 59 184 4 43 5 6' 38 12 6( 7( 7 40 10 109 20 1 149 344 150 341 278 1 io ! 7 7 7< 10 34 8 691 763 75 351 450 20 12 7 H 7 86 59 1 7 ■ Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. 228 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— SILK AND SILK GOODS, INCLUDING Spinners, etc.: Men Women Children " ', \ [ * \ " '. " ' ". "_ "_ ~ " ' ' ' [ "_ ' " " ' '_ '_ * " " " " Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundrv expenses not hitherto included. Contract work Materials used: Total cost Silk- Raw, pounds Cost Spun, pounds Cost Artificial, pounds Cost -. Waste, pounds Cost Other textile yarns — Cotton, pounds Cost Mercerized cotton, pounds Cost Wool, pounds Cost Mohair, pounds Cost Other, pounds Cost Silk purchased in partially manufactured form — Organzine and tram, pounds Cost : Fringe and floss, pounds Cost Fuel i Rent of power and heat ^ Mill suppli es All other materials Freight Raw silk thrown under contract: Organzine, pounds Tram, pounds Products: Total value Organzine and tram made for sale, pounds Value Spun silk yarn made for sale, pounds Value Machine twist, pounds Value Sewing, embroidery, and wash silks, pounds Value . Fringe and floss silks, pounds Value Broad silk goods- Plain and fancies — All silk, yards Value Silk mixed, yards Value Jacquard — All silk, yards Value Silk mixed, yards Value Piece-dyed— All silk, yards , Value Silk mixed, yards Value Other broad goods- Velvets, yards Value Plushes, yards Value Tapestries, yards Value Upholstery, yards Value Ribbons and laces- Ribbons, value — Laces, nets, veils, veiling, etc., value Embroideries, value — - Fringes and gimps, value Braids and bindings, value Trimmings — Tailors', value Ladies' , value Cloak, value Milliners' , value Military,, value - Other trimmings products, value Other products, value Received for contract work United States. 7,332 19, 513 4,955 $10, 264, 208 $591, 807 $238, 116 $2,863,986 $6, 570, 299 $62, 406, 665 9, 760, 770 $40, 721, 877 1,550,291 $3,406,059 6,056 $10, 380 1, 667, 195 $734, 539 6,444,208 $1, 830, 550 219, 861 $165, 683 239, 461 $167, 770 104, 810 $107, 365 108, 388 $134, 986 2, 338, 464 $10, 539, 632 67, 984 $274, 408 $548, 493 8135, 509 ' $994, 769 $2, 406, 123 $228,522 2,331,456 1,967,203 $107,256,258 2, 468, 387 $11,167,191 437, 459 $1,026,227 987, 917 $5, 997, 974 477, 658 $3,276,826 261,643 $971, 390 53,573,488 $33, 852, 111 8, 963, 315 $5,450,710 7, 532, 229 $5, 379, 001 1,677,466 $1,260,321 7, 331, 501 $3, 342, 1G7 8, 558, 884 $2, 868, 506 5,122,249 $2, 479, 903 3, 848, 684 $2, 480, 068 321,978 $180,503 1,011,141 $829, 332 $18, 467, 179 $803, 104 $57, 625 $444, 787 $1,522,565 $26, 624 $912, 361 $241, 560 $615, 012 $54, 666 $183, 853 $1,027,472 $2, 337, 220 California. $4,113 $2, 220 $680 $1, 213 $146, 219 30, 425 $113, 885 725 $2, 380 8,500 $2, 675 660 $655 150 SI 50 380 $545 980 $7,320 250 $1,100 $1, 382 $600 $8, 684 $3, 371 $3,472 $255, 902 2,000 $8, 000 22, 742 $163, 742 5, 200 $47, 400 SOU $800 $1,000 $4,000 $6, 500 $6, 000 $3, 200 $5,000 $3,100 $6,000 Connecticut. 1,268 1,990 227 $637,450 $30, 202 $36, 506 $353,489 $217, 253 $7, 198, 008 ' 1,159,961 $4, 537, 720 502, 558 $998, 566 749, 036 $404, 183 1, 187, 863 $388, 836 1,642 $1,416 401 $329 1,236 $1,543 2,024 $4,596 31, 041 $154, 881 743 $4,161 $90, 937 $5,980 $155, 982 $427, 544 $21,334 184, 270 69,588 $12, 378, 981 92,000 $502, 520 166,266 $398, 671 545, 423 $3, 354, 646 145, 032 $977, 213 95, 806 $217, 043 1,435,439 $1, 075, 166 415, 648 $269, 937 7,563 83, 905 93, 264 $63, 117 3,371,127 $1,534,724 147, 833 $98, 720 4,261,208 $2,087,639 1,011,457 $687, 679 69, 978 $84,503 .,807 838, 685 $192, 744 $136, 362 Illinois. $42,410 $7, 950 $1, 974 $19, 720 $12, 766 $187, 514 4,225 812, 724 10 255,247 $36,950 7,178 $3,113 65, 190 $35,702 6,992 $10,024 7,250 $10, 000 4,713 $21, 149 8,905 $29, 893 $2,500 $530 81, 624 $23,250 $421,088 $46, 477 $249, 002 86,000 843, 461 831,000 835, 000 . 86, 346 $3, 802 SILK. 229 BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Massachusetts. ' New Jersey New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Virginia. All other states. 1 449 1,186 158 $382, 745 813, 837 $179, 306 $160, 019 720, 485 2 898, 545 40,136 $96, 583 170 $420 418,355 $177,480 480, 220 $144,620 4,708 $3,733 96, 867 $69, 660 17, 405 $27,832 1,971 $12, 991 17,681 $81,010 675 $3,287 $35, 205 $3,467 $78, 435 $179, 347 $11, 448 ;,000 $5,957. 1, 87, 104. $270! 269, $1,413, 170, $1,246, 20, $147, 532 855 765 000 400 241 004 423 445 964 773 665, 153 $766, 054 2,020,101 $1,437,799 20,384 $12,434 $92, 000 $33,533 $28,087 $8,124 $68,385 $220 $6,000 $21,053 $9,278 3,180 6,722 813 $4,896,595 $241,838 $97, 665 $1,120,458 $3,436,634 $21, 631, 118 3,155,334 $13,514,501 178, 735 • $533, 612 757, 486 $304,481 122,053 $90,013 16, 940 $15, 042 480 $170 1,209,012 $5, 702, 506 478 $1, 816 $179, 280 $63, 932 $267, 824 $909, 191 $58,750 585, 722 651, 900 $39, 966, 662 315, 646 $1,500,060 16,611 $64,444 28,268,970 $18, 871, 325 2,331,493 $1, 680, 091 6, 451, 655 $4, 722, 532 1, 466, 355 $1, 154, 365 1, 694, 675 $905, 942 381,000 $154, 500 111, 077 $62, 935 655,842 8315, 540 2,000 89, 000 231,037 $396, 850 $8, 341, 721 8423, 267 8162, 595 $160 8434, 501 $766, 844 501 2,070 206 $1, 601, 527 $182, 323 $27, 587 $512, 228 $6,570,037 914, 265 $3, 814, 768 263, 200 $562, 322 5,350 $6, 790 287, 880 $86, 900 1,556,545 $359, 716 51, 560 842, 432 45, 527 $36, 640 29, 697 $28,776 24,167 $14, 364 197, 781 $839, 657 20, 606 $88, 813 $55, 635 $40, 651 $158, 119 $412, 922 $21, 532 117,981 204,400 $12, 706, 246 48, 263 $207, 500 92, 046 $216, 503 46, 500 $240,405 18, 528 $113,468 3,859,029 $2, 516, 445 1,047,130 $558, 361 108, 410 $116, 250 61,426 $19, 008 22,000 884,561 2,447,670 $1,039,489 9,515 $4,757 528, 795 $362, 191 623, 843 $222, 105 ■A, 883, 011 $377, 047 $23, 092 $195, 528 $388, 391 $389, 510 $21, 000 $231, 000 $30,000 $95, 784 $133, 622 8238, 218 34 73 .54 85,169 82,000 $86 $1,873 $1,200 $99, 403 20,200 890,282 1,100 $3,080 :, 382 S766 8983 II, 910 $135,354 7,800 $38,062 105, 000 $31,000 $39, 893 $26, 399 1,587 6,481 3,370 $2,451,820 $96, 547 $36, 330 $610, 872 $1,708,071 $19, 884, 869 3,238,285 $13,534,387 477,543 $979,506 526 83,115 186, 424 862, 476 1, 759, 769 $465, 812 30,070 823, 121 8,717 $5,743 47, 600 $35,645 31, 323 $24,097 871, 235 $3, 701, 840 34, 727 $137, 338 $158, 409 $15, 979 8277, 698 $364, 891 $94, 812 1,332,758 926, 915 $31, 072, 1, 723, $8,011, 75, $140, 43, $285, 74, $451, 128, $542. 926 791 155 148 053 476 288 475 800 262 130 17, 887, 478 $10,002,648 669, 377 $310, 200 903, 001 $505, 714 56,421 $23,831 1,775,255 $586,443 5, 562, 097 $1, 563, 363 740, 449 $324, 572 1, 752, 590 $1,114,658 250, 000 $87,000 166, 261 $210, 377 $2, 800 $170, 695 $119, 573 $397, 505 $181, 521 8344, 012 $15, 000 $72, 107 $171, 349 $1,070,133 20 151 2 $103, 454 $13, 925 $3,013 $7, 916 $78, 600 $818, 561 102, 691 $490,750 51, 516 $136, 404 25,000 $3,000 409, 936 $122, 800 2,000 $1,200 2,667 $2,000 5,711 $29, 730 1,600 88,000 $4,676 $1, 500 $1, 787 $14, 137 $2,577 16,699 $1,311,333 2,367,437 $1, 119, 159 $169, 480 $8,400 $14,294 131 216 101 $15,300 $1,168 $12, 697 $1,435 $720, 525 164, 200 $653, 045 $5,417 $1,260 $37, 311 $17,000 $6,492 67,220 27, 710 277,032 $892, 129 59, 760 $40,904 151 564 24 $3, 524 844,214 $74, 932 81,326,448 264, 924 $1, 073, 994 30, 653 $80, 882 500 $500 28,652 $4,760 3,002 $2,504 1,500 $3,000 41,173 $68, 768 310 $1,539 $12, 670 $1, 610 $16, 639 $53, 487 $6,196 26,906 5,690 $2,068,554 60,535 $540, 989 64,000 $440, 500 1, 351, 619 $588, 673 112, 129 $75, 163 60,800 $30,800 408,684 $126,241 $12,500 $7,500 $4,000 1 Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; $48,647 Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. $25,750 $26, 845 230 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— SILK AND SILK GOODS, INCLUDING Machinery: Spindles, total number Organzine — First time over, number Second time over, number Tram, number Cleaning or polishing, number Doubling, number Quilling, number Reeling, number Spinning and twisting, number Winding, number Looms — Power- Total number Plain— 36 inches or over reed space, number. Under 36 inches reed space, number. . German (warps on top) ribbons, number. High-speed ribbons, number Jacquards — Ribbons, number Broad silks, number Hand — Total number Plain— 36 inches or over reed space, number Under 36 inches reed space, number . Jacquards— Ribbons, number Broad silks, number Other machines — Power — Knitting- Warp, number KnitLing or crochet, number Roundhead, number Swiss-ribbed, number Milanese or traverse, number Beamers, number Braiders, number Chenille, number Curtain, number Embroidery— Shiffle or power, number Hand-stitched, number ,Gimp mills, number Levers or lace, number Sewing, number Slide cord, number Spooling tables, number Twist; number Warping, number Other power machines, number Hand— Beamers, number Braiders, number Chenille, number Embroidery — Hand-stitched, number Levers or lace, number Sewing, number Slide cord, number Spooling tables, number Twist, number : Warping, number Other hand machines, number Dyeing, finishing, and printing: Skein dyeing — Silk- Colors, pounds - Black, pounds Spun — Colors, pounds Black, pounds Cotton — Colors, pounds Black, pounds Wool- Colors, pounds Black, pounds Piece dyeing — All silk, yards Silk and spun, yards Silk and cotton, yards Silk and wool, yards Finishing — All silk, pieces Silk and cotton, pieces Silk and wool, pieces Printing- Printed in warps, yards Printed in pieces — All silk, yards Silk and spun, yards Silk and cotton, yards United States. 1,987,404 682, 180 345, 14S 117, 979 6,526 185, 075 87, 742 52,158 168, 189 442, 410 44,257 13, 077 16, 161 4,471 2,105 856 7,587 173 32 127 108 127 21 14 5 343 15, 305 130 1 104 29 122 64 550 152 743 64 3,589 19 30 2 1 79 8 144 16 796 61 , 793, 955 ,641,785 425, 216 176, 014 925,255 981,659 62,658 65, 949 ,224,329 459, 693 i, 780, 156 350 472, 584 289,362 116 846, 704 ,684,524 637,228 California. 44 456 50 84 1,650 1,008 13 5 750 26, 972 Connecticut. 160,743 15, 686 8,720 5,256 2,102 14,048 7,361 4,340 66, 753 36, 477 2,975 1,660 777 95 194 54 1,005 1 1 'id 187 1 511, 298 445,999 203, 181 62, 957 113,830 450,669 177, 391 349, 693 1,077,664 71, 986 168, 776 777, 618 1,684,524 537,228 Illinois. 27 '27" SILK. 231 BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Massachusetts. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Virginia. Allother states. 1 107, 312 20,088 9,632 1,586 467 11,040 1,910 3,524 36,782 22,283 1,017 451 422 144 536,065 153,312 92,190 30,014 1,023 50,587 35, 961 13, 367 6,074 153,537 20,557 4,573 7,282 1,601 882 433 5,786 15 7 8 136, 703 25,208 14,352 8,404 1,389 12, 977 9,232 4, 102 15,522 45,517 5,175 1,510 1,175 1,594 425 223 248 93 4 81 6 2 54 39 9 18,790 5,000 2,000 2,680 942, 545 340,298 205,781 65, 591 799 85,535 30,458 24,956 27, 181 161,946 12,920 3,709 6,166 986 604 195 1,260 29 18 8 3 4,212 41. 798 16, 696 8,400 3,276 35,856 5,892 4,070 1,084 600 2,474 710 1,143 10, 781 9,102 779 437 244 51 161 169 163 164 102 560 60 80 1,890 1,520 533 465 68 165 2,900 2,000 158 4,498 166 167 404 1,556 6,968 147 147 169 161 4,052 125 125 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 47 6 3 177 23 178 179 23 180 181 3 18? 46 63 12 1X3 17 184 185 14 186 5 52 3,889 50 187 6 2,876 4 97 744 1 1 128 1,381 62 1 5 180 188 1,400 189 190 191 20 5 4 84 24 38 50 295 31 49 26 410 41 1 17 18 19? 193 44 14 112 28 194 195 9 81 108 5 97 103 19 132 7 1,102 17 2 4 1% 197 51 7 1,700 40 1 2 4 82 12 37 198 199 8 37 9 200 201 1 209 20; •m 2 205 1 17 206 35 15 1 207 208 16 2 304 1 838,582 257, 844 2,139 90 25, 640 83,050 28 5 263 12 98, 910 54,431 26, 783 8,000 261,322 25,475 5,000 4,000 19 1 206 20< 210 6 33 263,700 350,083 71,151 22, 498 122,109 224, 642 45, 658 50, 949 3 211 21? 29,320 68,023 110, 100 78,515 400, 354 196,723 51,395 128, 433 1,950 650 2,000 1,000 2,000 1,000 213 210, 000 21' 9,912 3,304 21 r 216 217 21? , 219 220 1,046,938 110, 000 471, 893 350 268, 128 29, 767 54 7,500 69, 086 221 222 538,310 67, 240 15, 052 57, 161 65, 046 62 130 10, 721 7,899 221 22E 22e 22' 22f 22f 23C i Includes establishments distributed as iollows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. 232 MANUFACTURES. Table 23.— SILK AND SILK GOODS, INCLUDING United States. California. Connecticut. Illinois. 232 Comparison of products: Number of establishments reporting for both years 378 $101,474,146 $90, 107, 761 475 61, 395 421 46,959 19 323 117 6,666 ' 135 3,998 8 609 3,832 508 483 2 20 66 83 95 123 60 28 6 5 $255, 902 $237, 451 5 89 2 82 35 $12,209,415 $9,640,107 * 38 5,490 66 4,364 2 88 18 813 6 75 3 $419, 088 $364, 896 4 122 2 100 233 Value for census year 234 Value for preceding business year. . . 235 Power: Number of establishments reporting 236 Total horsepower 237 Owned— Engines — 238 Horsepower 239 240 241 Water wheels, number 242 Horsepower 243 244 245 24fi Rented — 7 85 65 7 38 247 22 248 249 Establishments classified by number of persons employed, not including pro- prietors and firm members: Total number of establishments 5 1 4 ?sn 951 1 95? 5 to 20 2 1 1 6 7 5 14 3 2 1 253 21to50 ?S4 51 to 100 255 101 to 250 3 ?ftfi 251 to 500 957 501 to 1,000 958 Over 1,000 SILK. 233 BRAIDS AND TRIMMINGS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. Massachusetts. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. Virginia. All other states. 1 17 $5, 874, 830 $4,605,428 19 4,536 24 2,206 142 $38,364,902 $36,205,469 180 17, 122 111 12, 471 4 46 38 1,245 35 1,158 80 $12, 264, 525 $11,543,103 87 5,246 45 3,118 7 56 15 852 17 135 1 $26, 399 $16, 723 3 455 3 455 81 $23,129,885 $24,872,339 121 26,227 152 21, 670 6 133 5 620 54 2,017 8 180 599 110 121 5 $1, 226, 588 $532, 246 6 250 3 190 2 $940, 776 $855, 306 3 1,683 16 580 7 $1,761,836 $1,234,693 9 1,175 723 232 233 234 235 236 237 238 239 240 28 2,039 5 205 1 30 5 695 18 408 7 372 241 242 243 2,44 245 244 1,958 210 180 1 7 27 35 36 39 19 14 2 73 1,012 80 92 20 60 100 11 246 86 1 20 30 247 248 3 6 3 249 250 3 2 5 2 3 2 3 6 17 15 20 24 10 2 16 26 34 22 9 3 1 1 1 3 3 2 251 1 2 2 1 252 1 ?.-i3 •254 2 1 1 255 1 266 257 258 'Includes establishments distributed as follows: Delaware, 2; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Michigan, 2; New Hampshire, 2; Utah, 2. FLAX. HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS. (235) FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS. By Edward Stanwood, Expert Special Agent. The industries which make use of the three classes of vegetable fibers, flax, hemp, and jute, are closely allied, in that most of them employ more than one of these materials. For example, there is a large consumption of hemp both by jute manufacturers and by those classed as makers of linen goods; and there is a consumption of all three fibers by cord- age and twine establishments. If it were possible, it would be more scientific to classify the several industries by the character of the goods produced, but the variety and diversity of products are so great that it is impossible to do so. The plan here adopted is to group all the industries reported at the Eleventh Census under the separate heads of cordage and twine, jute and jute goods, linen goods, and linen thread, in one general survey, and to bring the facts relating to each branch into view by separate treat- ment. Table 1 is a comparative summary of the statistics of the industry as a whole in 1890 and 1900. Table 1.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS; COMPAR- ATIVE SUMMARY, 1890 AND 1900. Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number . Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Women, 16 years and over . Wages Children, under 16 years... Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 1!)00 141 $41,991,762 641 $957, 190 20, 903 86,331,741 9,996 $3,824,555 8,648 $2, 174, 152 2,259 $333,034 $2, 678, 286 $32,197,885 9*1, 601,607 1S!)0 162 $27, 731, 649 M58 '$609, 170 15, 519 $4,872,389 7,367 $2,952,270 6,923 81, 733, 289 1,229 $186,830 $1, 431, 932 $26, 148, 344 $37, 313, 021 includes proprietors nnd fir only reported in 190U, but not m> !u<; . mber>, with tl [lis table. (£>■■ -_'ir salaries; number Tii hie 14.) The only inference that may fairly be drawn from Table 1 is that, upon the whole, there has been an increase in these industries. It would be a statistical absurdity to place reliance upon the percentages of increase of masses, which include things widely different in their nature, and sums made up of great numbers and small. Table 2 is a summary of the industry by states for 1900. Table 2.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS; SUMMARY BY STATES: 1900. United States. Alabama. Connecticut. Kentucky. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number . Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 141 $41, 991, 762 641 $957, 190 20,903 $6, 331, 741 $2, 678, 286 $32,197,885 $47,601,607 $10, 980 282 $47,643 $14, 654 $166, 145 $253, 560 8297.962 ' 5 83, 500 265 $69,544 $6,443 $196, 332 $312, 446 $459,295 23 826, 024 492 $149, 937 $39,847 $341,515 $602, 701 28 $10. 223, 490 136 $203, 943 4,693 $1,562,862 $601,542 $7,539,433 $11,388,933 $3,413,163 57 $80, 551 2,127 $624, 988 $223, 118 $1,760,426 $2, 955, 844 Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 22 $10, 311, 768 148 $306, 331 5,450 $1, 713, 614 $782, 719 $7, 516, 240 $11,674,669 Ohio. $2, 147, 677 47 $54,205 1, 052 $317,909 $96, 471 $2, 325, 907 $2, 957, 674 Pennsylva- nia. 21 $6, 162, 509 90 $103, 788 2, 683 $761,582 $147, 126 85, 448, 323 $7, 256, 548 Rhode Is- land. Wisconsin. 5 $95, 947 4 $2, 670 84 $22, 175 $8,052 $63, 954 $108, 715 5 $213,565 11 $8,840 128 $35, 085 $7,574 $109, 016 $185, 166 All other states. 1 27 $8, 367, 938 110 $156, 358 3,647 $1,026,402 $750, 740 $6, 730, 594 89, 905, 351 1 Includes states having less than 3 establishments, in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments are tributed as follows: Arkansas, 1; California, 2; Delaware, 1; Georgia, 1; Illinois, 2; Indiana, 1; Iowa, 1; Kansas, 1; Maine, 2; Maryland, 1; Michigan, 1; Minne- clistributed f - .. sota, 1; Mississippi, 1; Missouri, 2; New Hampshire, 1; North Carolina, 2; Oregon, 1: South Carolina, 1; Tennessee, 2; Texas, 2. (237) 238 MANUFACTURES. Tables 3 and 4 present, in accordance with trade classi- fications, the several fiber materials entering into the manufacture of flax, hemp, and jute goods, both the quantity and the cost, respectively; also the quantity and value of the goods produced therefrom. Table 3— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND COST OF MATERIALS USED: 1900. Total . Fibers: Hard- Hemp — Manila Sisal New Zealand Soft- Hemp — Russian — Rough Tow Line Italian — Rough Tow Line American — Rough Tow Line Flax- European— Rough Tow Line Canadian — Rough Tow Line Domestic — Rough Tow Line Jute Jute butts Yarns: Flax or hemp- Domestic tow — Wholly or partly bleached . Gray '. Domestic line — Wholly or partly bleached . Gray Imported tow — Wholly or partly bleached . Gray Imported line- Wholly or partly bleached . Gray Linen, unspecified Cotton Jute Silk Spun silk Worsted Cotton: Ra w (26,540 bales ) Waste All other materials Pounds. 545,449,566 123,241,820 146,352,853 6,344,371 1, 175, 605 118,090 349,558 7, 329, 346 305,917 11, 497, 068 3,201,011 1,276,262 5, 680, 911 3, 727, 163 3, 388, 641 1, 972, 820 247, 350 131, 736 700,000 744,045 487, 980 87,443,201 118,806,625 120, 320 48, 500 107,490 157, 778 37, 514 196, 941 1,000 108, 976 102, 622 4, 973, 080 1,009,651 4,774 1,100 682 13,022,755 798, 182 832, 197, 885 8,916,493 8,827,131 352,528 73,165 6,869 25, 063 533, 922 20, 969 31,780 536,076 112, 134 65, 676 668,446 252, 759 155, 751 18,908 20, 643 25,750 66, 665 65,247 2, 431, 429 1, 795, 653 14,060 6,860 45,550 32, 396 35, 178 180 48, 747 42, 005 709, 889 69,504 24,414 3,450 849, 426 37, 692 4,459,796 Table 4.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1900— Cont'd. Table 4.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1900. Total. Flax or hemp yams: Tow- Dry spun, gray, pounds Dry spun, bleached, pounds Wet spun, gray, pounds Wet spun, bleached, pounds Line — Dry spun, gray, pounds Dry spun, bleached, pounds Wet spun, gray, pounds Jute yarns, pounds Twines for sale: All flax, pounds All hemp, pounds All jute, pounds Flax or hemp, mixed with jute, pounds . Linen thread, pounds Quantity. 1,889,528 18, 371 6,060,092 49,236 218,088 23, 138 1,200 54,271,860 3, 846, 978 9,065,024 1, 679, 127 12, 924, 067 4,021,044 Value. $47, 601, 607 248,351 3,473 804,908 11, 361 46,600 11,078 300 3,230,835 969, 469 1,019,590 117, 539 1,101,203 2,332,287 Binder twine: All muni hi, pounds Chiefly manila, pounds All or chiefly sisal, pounds Rope: Manila, pounds Sisal, pounds Jute, pounds Cotton, pounds Towels and toweling: All linen, square yards Partly linen, square yards Other woven fabrics: All linen, square yards Partly linen, square yards Jute burlaps, square yards Jute carpets and rugs, square yards . Gunny bagging, square yards Other spun or woven goods Cotton: Bagging, square yards Yarn, pounds Twine, pounds Batting, pounds Waste, pounds Other products of cotton All other products Quantity. 15, 24, 125, 261, 174 975,568 372, 687 347, 459 865, 604 012,165 615, 824 598, 615 051,247 83, 000 135,000 953, 658 090, 760 248,204 946,667 1,691,707 198, 000 , 254, 619 Value. $1,546,428 2,316,257 10,322,896 8,330,113 3,682,670 463,413 247,250 471,633 281,258 9,110 34,000 386, 129 357, 568 3,462,479 1,051,689 21,864 98,928 1,133,640 7,126 20, 146 715, 613 2,744,504 CORDAGE AND TWINE. Three general classes of establishments are included in the following statistics under the head of cordage and twine. The first and smallest, having regard to the items of capital, number of wage-earners, wages, and value of products, consists of those whose chief business is the manufacture of yarn — cotton, for the most part, but also linen and silk — into the finer varie- ties of twine and into cotton rope; the second, of those which produce binder twine on a large scale; the third, of those which manufacture hempen rope. Since no useful purpose would be served by separating the returns of these several classes they are reported together; but the important facts regarding the several industries, so far as they are distinct, are easily ascer- tained from the statistics of the quantity and value of the fibers consumed, and of the quantity and value of the several products. At previous censuses no special inquiry was made concerning any of the characteristic features of the industries grouped under this head, and no facts were reported other than those which appear in the following comparative summary: Table 5.— CORDAGE AND TWINE; COMPARATIVE SUM- MARY, 1880 TO 1900. Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 105 $29, 275, 470 436 8666,936 13,114 84,113,112 7,341 $2,751,787 4,797 $1,212,823 976 $148, 502 $1,716,205 $26, 632, 006 $37, 849, 651 1890 150 $23,351,883 1 414 i $560, 639 12,385 $3,976,232 6, 412 $2, 547, 985 5,010 $1,280,066 963 $148, 182 $1,020,697 $24,051,666 $33,312,559 1880 165 $7,140,476 ( 2 ) ( 2 ) 5,435 81,658,676 2,926 C 2 ) 1,480 ( 2 ) 1,029 $9,330,261 $12,492,171 1 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900. 2 Not reported separately. "Not reported. FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS. 239 The tendency toward a consolidation of small estab- lishments and the transaction of business on a larger scale was observable ten years ago, when a decreased number of establishments reported a capital more than threefold greater than in 1880, and a value of prod- ucts nearly threefold greater. At the census of 1900 the number of separate establishments declined, as compared with 1890, almost one-third, yet the value of products was larger. The statistics of capital are not strictly comparable, since the method of ascertain- ing the amount has been different at each census. The fact of an increase may be inferred, but the rate of increase can not properly be deduced from the fig- ures given. This is also true respecting the returns of the average number of persons employed, the method of ascertaining such average having been changed. In general, it appears that the number of wage-earners has not increased greatly, if at all, within the last decade. The kind, quantity, and cost of the materials used in the production of cordage and twine, and the quantity and value of the several products are presented in Tables 6 and 7. Table 6.— CORDAGE AND TWINE; KIND, QUANTITY, AND COST OF MATERIALS USED: 1900. Total . Cotton: Haw (26,640 bales). Yarn Waste Flax fiber: European- Bough Tow Line Canadian — Rough Tow Domestic-- Rough Tow Line Linen yarn Hemp: Manila New Zealand . . . Russian — Rough Tow Line Italian- Rough Tow Line American — Rough Tow Line Jute Butts Yarns; Jute Silk Spun Worsted All other materials. 418,416,811 13,022,755 3,860,235 798, 182 767, 672 345, 959 54,692 768,021 49, 457 200, 000 703, 943 487, 980 299,135 123,241,820 146,352,853 6,344,371 1,175,605 44,090 349, 558 3, 422, 104 305, 917 296, 920 10, 871, 865 3,011,004 1,258,266 25, 767, 800 74, 281, 100 339, 051 4,774 1,100 682 Cost. $26,632,006 849,426 505,041 37,692 76, 615 23, 191 7,243 56,688 3,188 24, 000 64, 186 65,247 83,525 8,916,493 8,827,131 352, 528 73, 165 1,969 25,063 256,582 20, 969 27, 752 506, 767 104, 660 63, 965 786, 967 1, 107, 899 21,070 24,414 3,450 308 3, 714, 812 Table 7.— CORDAGE AND TWINE; KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1900. Total . Twine: Cotton, pounds Flax, pounds Hemp, pounds Jute, pounds Flax or hemp, mixed with jute, pounds . Binder twine: Manila, pounds '. Chiefly manila, pounds All or chiefly sisal, pounds Rope: Cotton, pounds Manila, pounds Sisal, pounds Jute, pounds Gunny bagging, square yards Jute burlap Yarn: Cotton, pounds Flax and hemp, tow, pounds Flax and hemp, line, pounds Jute, pounds Linen thread, pounds Waste, pounds Batting and wadding, pounds Other spun or woven goods All other products, cotton All other products Quantity. Value. $37,849,651 8, 691, 707 2,187,540 8, 299, 902 1,589,127 12,924,067 15,261,174 24, 975, 568 125, 372, 687 1,615,824 83, 347, 459 46,865,604 5, 717, 317 41, 310, 695 946, 567 2, 552, 955 10, 000 9, 554, 188 100, 000 1,254,619 198,000 6,241,449 1,133,640 602,471 895, 074 111,239 1,101,203 1,546,428 2,316,267 10,322,890 247,250 8,330,113 3,682,670 250, 760 2,035,636 150,000 98,928 345, 913 4,800 621,687 17,000 20, 146 7,125 534,265 715, 613 2, 758, 537 JUTE AND JUTE GOODS. The jute manufacture was represented at the Tenth Census by 4 establishments only, having a total capital of $415,000, and products valued at $696,982. Seven establishments were reported at the Eleventh Census under the head of jute and jute goods. It is probable, however, that some which were classed as "bagging, flax, hemp, and jute" are, in the reports for 1900, in- cluded in the class of jute and jute goods, since it ap- pears that. only 2 of the 18 establishments now making returns have come into existence. during the decade. Under these circumstances a comparison of the statistics for 1900 with those of former census years would be misleading. The principal facts relating to the indus- try for 1900 are presented in the following summary: Table 8.— JUTE AND JUTE GOODS: 1900. Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 18 $7,027,293 88 8147, 313 4,506 $1, 181, 790 1,611 $579, 877 2,064 $480,732 831 $121, 181 $574, 986 $3, 015, 362 $5, 383, 797 240 MANUFACTURES. Table 9 shows the kind, quantity, and cost of the materials employed in the manufacture. Table 9.— JUTE AND JUTE GOODS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND COST OF MATERIALS USED: 1900. Pounds. Cost. Total 109, 049, 701 $3, 015, 362 61, 603, 929 44, 525, 525 670, 600 1,363,431 584,328 301,888 1,642,318 687, 754 48, 434 83. 303 27, 354 33,834 492, 365 Butts Hemp: Table 10 presents a classification of the principal products of the establishments reporting. Table 10.— JUTE AND JUTE GOODS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1900. Total . Jute yarn Twine Rope Burlaps Gunny bagging Carpets and rugs Flax or hemp yarns Other spun or woven goods . All other products pounds.. do do.... .square yards.. do.... do.... pounds.. Quantity. 44, 717, 672 90, 000 4,294,848 4, 361, 635 32, 780, 065 2, 953, 658 1,286,155 Value. 85, 383, 797 2, 609, 148 6,300 212, 653 236, 129 1,426,843 357, 568 165, 788 364, 821 4,547 LINEN MANUFACTURE. The report upon the linen industry at the census of 1890 was most meager. Three establishments only producing linen goods were included in the general summary of manufactures; 2 others which made linen thread came under the rule which forbids the separate tabulation of less than 3 establishments, and were placed under "all other industries." Inasmuch as both classes of establishments are reported together in the follow- ing tables, the facts relating to the 5 establishments reporting in 1890 are now published for the first time for purposes of comparison. Table 11.— LINEN GOODS; COMPARATIVE SUMMARY: 1890 AND 1900. Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 18 85, 688, 999 117 $142, 941 3,283 $1,036,839 1,044 $492, 891 1,787 $480, 597 452 $63, 351 $387, 095 82,550,517 $4, 368, 159 $2,734,130 126 1 $25, 530 1,940 $527, 572 648 «255, 409 1,193 $256, 187 99 $15, 976 $242, 977 $1,594,769 $2,880,341 i Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900. Inasmuch as the tables deal with so small a number of establishments, many of them still in the period of experiment, no deduction is justified or would be safe, further than that the industry has expanded greatly. The materials used, consisting of hemp, flax, jute, and cotton, in great variety and in various stages of manufacture, are summarized in Table 12. Table 12.— LINEN GOODS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND COST OF MATERIALS USED: 1900. Total . Hemp: Russian- Tow Italian — Rough Line American — Rough Tow Line Flax: European — Rough Tow Line Canadian — Rough Tow Line Domestic — Rough Tow Flax or hemp yarn . Cotton yarn Jute All other materials. Pounds. 74,000 2,543,811 40,875 190,007 17, 996 4, 823, 239 3, 381, 204 3, 334, 049 1,204,799 197, 893 131, 736 500, 000 40, 102 582, 006 810, 957 71,472 Cost. $2, 550, 517 3,900 194,037 4,028 1,955 7,474 1,710 591,831 229, 568 799, 450 99, 063 15, 720 20, 643 1.750 2,479 151,132 171,014 2,144 252, 619 Table 13 shows the kind, quantity, and value of the principal products during the census year of the estab- lishments reporting. Table 13.— LINEN GOODS; KIND, QUANTITY, AND VALUE OF PRODUCTS: 1900. Total . Flax or hemp yarn, tow pounds.. Flax or hemp yarn, line do Twine, all flax do. . ! ! Twine, all hemp do Linen thread do Towel9and toweling, all linen square yards!! Towels and toweling, partly linen do Other woven fabrics, all linen do Other woven fabrics, partly linen !do Other spun or woven goods All other products Quantity. Value. $4, 368, 159 556, 392 53, 078 366, 998 124, 516 2, 315, 287 471,633 281,258 9,110 84, 000 152, 60S 3,284 The linen industry has never obtained a firm foothold in the United States. In colonial times efforts were made to promote the growth of flax, and to introduce the spinning and weaving of the fiber. It was the pol- icy of the mother country to repress manufactures in the colonies, but the production of linen goods was a domestic industry, which England could not and did not try to prevent. The cultivation of flax was undertaken on a small scale, and the spinning wheel and the hand- loom were the only available machinery for working it into cloth. It is probable that there was in America FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS. 241 scarcely any manufacture of linen for sale. That which was made was a home product intended solely for con- sumption, in the families of the weavers. The factory system had not been generally established even on the other side of the Atlantic. Nevertheless flax was already cultivated on a generous scale in many districts of Ireland, France, Germany, and other countries, and large numbers of persons were employed in preparation of the fiber and manufacture of linen for the market. It is extremely probable that the desire of the Ameri- can people to introduce manufactures, thus supplement- ing their political with industrial and commercial inde- pendence, would have led them to engage largely in the production of linen fabrics had not the invention of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney (patented in 1793) placed in their hands a fiber cheaper than flax, more tractable, requiring less care in preparation, more easily spun and woven, superior for many purposes and decidedly infe- rior for very few. At all events, the effort to intro duce the linen manufacture was practically abandoned for the time being, and, until recently, the attempts to establish it in the United States have been spasmodic and unsuccessful. The difficulties in the path of manu- facturers are many. There is, to speak broadly, no American production of fiber suitable for spinning. Flax is grown in great quantities, but it is cultivated chiefly for the seed and not for the fiber. The proces • of retting involves the expenditure of too much time and labor to be profitable to American farmers. Consequently it is necessary to rely almost wholly upon foreign importations for the raw material. Moreover, the intermediate processes of manufacture, as well as the spinning and weaving of a fiber greatly lacking in elasticity, require so much skill and care that the margin of profit is precarious. And finally, the demand for the finished product is far from being so broad and imperative as is that for articles of cotton, wool, and silk. Linen is indispensable for fine fabrics for the dining table, for thread and twine where great strength is required, and for the best quality of towel- ing; but for the thousand and one uses to which ordi- nary cloth is put, cotton would be generally preferred by consumers, even if the cost were the same. It will be inferred from these statements that the linen industry in the United States at the present time is not extensive, nor does the prospect seem bright. Never- theless, measured by percentages, the increase during the last ten years has been great. There are certain fields which American manufacturers can occupy to advantage. There is a large demand for linen carpet- yarns; our immense shoe manufacturing industry re- quires a great quantity of linen thread; and the market for towels and toweling is practically unlimited. The first two of these fields our.manufacturers have occupied for many years. The third they have entered more generally during the past ten years than ever before. This was rendered possible by a readjustment of tariff rates in the act of 1897. The duty on the yarns required for such branches of the manufacture as Americans now think it expedient to engage in, was reduced to a reve- nue basis, and the duty on manufactured goods was raised. The manufacture of linen toweling, which shows the largest extension of any branch of linen manufacture dur- ing the decade, is not f ully reported in the general tables. Several large cotton manufacturing establishments have engaged in this industry; and although their use of nearly one and a half million pounds of linen yarn is reported among the materials consumed, the schedules issued to them made no provision for a separate report of the character, quantity, or value of their linen products. Table 14 is a detailed statement of the statistics for flax, hemp, and jute products, by states, for 1900. Table 14.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JUTE PRODUCTS, BY STATES: 1900. UnitedStates. Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc Total number Total salaries Men- Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries MON TEXT 1 <3 31 74 $41,991,762 82, 457, 349 85,146,574 $9, 789, 559 $24, 598, 280 100 641 $957, 190 145 $422, 046 496 $535, 144 442 $509, 158 $298, 448 $27, 026 $45, 951 $169, 976 $55, 495 10 $10, 980 7 $8,040 $2,940 3 $2,940 Connecticut. 1 $297, 962 $8,000 $25, 300 $85,400 $179, 262 7 5 $3,500 2 $1,950 $1,550 2 $1,050 1 $500 Kentucky. 2 2 2 $459, 295 $1,500 $40,200 $202, 789 $214, 806 7 23 $26,024 5 810,000 18 $16, 024 16 $15, 244 2 J7S0 Massachu- setts. 28 7 5 1(5 $10, 223, 490 $491, 974 $1, 298, 786 $1, 839, 725 $6, 593, 005 16 136 $203, 943 25 $92,741 111 $111,202 $102, 630 16 $8, 572 New Jersey. 1 5 $3, 413, 163 8252,421 8794,320 8851,805 $1, 514, 617 1 57 $80, 551 5 $15,700 52 $64,851 51 864,212 242 MANUFACTURES. Table 14.— FLAX, HEMP, AND JTJTE PRODUCTS, BY STATES: 1900— Continued. TJnitedStates. Alabama. Connecticut. Kentucky. Massachu- setts. New Jersey. Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year. Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and oyer — Average number i Wages Women, 16 years and over- Average number Children, under 16 years — Average number Wages Miscellaneous expenses: Total. Rent o£ works Taxes, not including internal revenue Kent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Principal materials Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies ■. All other materials Freight Products: Total value 24,947 17,588 20, 903 $6,331,741 9,996 $8,824,555 8,648 $2, 174, 152 2,259 $333,034 $2,678,286 $158, 753 $222, 670 $2, 270, 745 $26, 118 $32,197,885 $27, 746, 312 $390, 746 $19, 343 $736, 820 $3, 001, 923 $302, 741 $47, 601, 607 258 282 $25, 771 105 $13, 525 $8, 347 $14, 654 $775 $1, 749 $12, 130 274 251 265 $69, 544 142 $43, 016 120 $25,988 $6,443 $387 $1,782 $4,274 588 389 492 $149, 937 285 $109,746 162 $34,176 45 $6,015 $39, 847 $3, 530 $1, 633 $34,684 $166, 145 $151, 668 $5,557 $3,877 $2,300 $2, 743 $253, 660 $196, 332 $179, 168 $2,212 $306 $6,208 $209 $8,229 $312,446 $341, 515 $309, 278 $6, 145 $7, 169 $10, 190 $8,733 $602, 701 5,195 4,075 4,693 $1,562,862 2,649 $1,020,085 1,770 $490,991 274 $51,786 $601,542' $7, 170 $85, 334 $506, 884 $2,154 $7, 539, 433 $6, 782, 696 $106, 986 $4,965 $278, 951 $343, 642 $22, 193 $11, 388, 933 2,332 1,963 2,127 656 $296, 008 1,009 $271,744 462 $58, 236 $223, 118 $600 $34,569 $187, 949 $1,760,426 $1, 616, 754 $28,645 $4,563 $54, 766 $45, 219 $10, 489 $2,955,844 New York. Ohio. Pennsylva- nia. Rhodelsland. Wisconsin. All other states. l Number of establishments Character of organization: Individual Firm and limited partnership Incorporated company Capital: Total Land ., Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number ; Total salaries Officers of corporations- Number Salaries General superintendents, managers, clerks, etc. — Total number Total salaries Men- Number.' Salaries - - Women — Number Salaries Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year. Least number employed at any one time during the year Average number Wages Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children, under 16 years- Average number Wages Miscellaneous expenses: Total. Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hitherto included Contract work Materials used: Total cost Principal materials Fuel Rent of power and heat Mill supplies All other materials Freight Products. Total value 5 14 $10,311,768 $422, 704 $925, 858 $2, 734, 491 $6, 228, 715 15 148 $306, 331 30 $166, 755 118 $149, 576 104 $142, 627 14 $6, 949 4,428 5,450 $1, 713, 614 2,657 $1, 039, 333 2,312 $592, 893 $782, 719 $125, 234 $40,915 $616, 570 1 1 7 $2, 147, 677 $66,415 $272, 751 • $624, 270 $1, 185, 241 2 47 $54, 205 11 $17,250 36 $36, 955 32 $34,999 4 $1,956 1,574 764 1,052 $317, 909 725 $255,095 315 $60, 766 12 $2,048 $96, 471 $1, 151 $10, 174 $7, 616, 240 $6, 781, 255 $116, 905 $8, 012 $164, 676 $412, 079 $33, 313 $11, 674, 669 :, 325, 907 :, 170, 059 $20, 915 $28, 709 $46, 923 $59, 301 :, 957, 674 $6,162,509 $441,671 $636, 950 $1, 233, 540 $3, 850, 348 25 90 $103, 788 $31,700 82 $72,088 72 $67, 960 10 $4,128 2,919 2,331 2,683 $761, 582 1,089 8449, 927 1,083 $238, 628 511 $73, 027 $147, 126 $2, 600 $7, 526 $114, 603 $22, 397 $5, 448, 323 $3, 298, 823 $29, 091 $60 $95, 079 $1,950,491 $74, 779 $7,266,548 1 1 $95, 947 $3,000 $15, 000 $39,226 $38,721 7 4 $2,670 $213, 565 $25, 000 $26, 870 $102, 310 $59, 385 6 11 $8,840 4 $2,760 4 $2,670 4 $2, 670 112 57 84 $22, 175 38 $11, 694 46 $10,481 $8,052 $2,150 $246 $1,567 $63,954 $57, 423 $707 $750 $656 $4,131 $287 142 115 128 $36,085 46 $17,291 61 $15, 779 • 21 $2, 015 $7, 574 $44 $1,103 $6,427 $109, 016 $103,050 $2, 136 $1,757 $700 $1, 373 $185, 166 5 5 17 $8,367,938 $718, 638 $1,064,588 $1,906,027 $4, 678, 685 14 110 $156, 358 48 $85, 150 62 $71,208 56 $68,746 $2,462 5,066 2,957 3,647 $1,026,402 1,620 $557, 589 1,665 $419, 181 362 $49, 632 $750, 740 $15, 112 $37,639 $6, 730, 594 $6, 296, 138 $71, 447 $687 $94, 982 S186, 039 $81, 301 $9, 905, 351 i Includes states having less than 3 establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed These establishments are distributed as follows: Arkansas, 1; California, 2; Delaware, 1; Georgia, 1; Illinois, 2, Indiana, 1; Iowa, 1; Kansas, 1; Maine, 2; Maryland 1- Michigan 1- Min- nesota, 1, Mississippi, 1: Missouri, 2; New Hampshire, 1; North Carolina, 2; Oregon, 1; South Carolina, 1; Tennessee, 2; Texas 2 ' ' ' ' DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. (243) DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. By Edward Stanwood, Expert Special Agent. Dyeing and finishing textiles is carried on as an in- dustry in independent establishments, and also as one of the processes i- n a considerable number of the fac- tories engaged in cotton, wool, and silk manufactures. The various statistics relating to capital, employees, wages, miscellaneous expenses, cost of materials, and value of products, as to the independent establishments, must be given in order to complete the information re- garding the textile industry as a whole. In the presen- tation of these statistics the rule adopted at all previous censuses, except one, has been followed. Inasmuch as all the material operated upon — yarn, cloth, hosiery, etc. — was reported by other textile establishments as products of manufacture, a return by the establishments exclusively engaged in dyeing and finishing textiles of the total value of the articles after the dyeing and finishing would have resulted in great duplication. For this reason the yarn and fabrics have been totally ex- cluded from the statement of materials, and only the value added to the materials by the processes have been given as the value of the products of this particular branch of the textile industry. The magnitude of the business of dyeing and finishing can be ascertained only by combining the statistics of independent establishments with similar information as to this work in other branches of the textile industry. Outside of the independent establishments, however, the finishing processes are subordinate to the process of manufacture, and the schedules provided for the taking of the textile industry were not sufficiently uniform in the details relating to dyeing and finishing to render a full presentation possible. Thus, the wool schedule calls for the value of chemicals and dye stuffs used in the mills devoted to that industry, but not for the amount of goods operated upon. On the other hand, the silk schedule calls for the amount of goods operated upon, but not for the value of chemicals and dye stuffs used. The total cost of chemicals and dye stuffs used in all textile establishments in 1890 and 1900 so far as reported was as follows: 1900 1890 Total $25,392,573 $19,686,663 Independent dyeing and finishing establishments. - 10, 667, 621 14, 724, 952 8,407,693 11, 278, 970 5, 718, 107 7,983,684 1, 023, 161 4, 266, 773 5, 889, 612 564,053 558,532 1 Including woolen goods; worsted goods; carpets and rugs, other than rag ielt goods; and wool hats in 1890 and 1900. 2 Not reported separately in 1900. The increase in cost of chemicals and dye stuffs for the last decade has been marked; for the independent establishments from $8,407,693 in 1890 to $10,667,621 in 1900, an increase of $2,259,928, or 26.9 per cent; and in cotton and wool manufactures, including hosiery and knit goods, from $10,720,438 to $14,724,952, an increase of $4,004,514, or 37.4 per cent. The large decrease in the price of merchandise in the decade is to be taken into account in examining the foregoing table. The quantity of chemicals used and the quantity of yarn and cloth operated upon increased in a much greater ratio than the value represented in products. In the case of some articles the increase can be shown. For example, the amount of cotton piece goods printed in 1890 was 722,257,451 square yards, of which 579,667,368 square yards were printed in independent establishments and 142,590,083 in cot- ton mills. In 1900 the aggregate was 1,233,191,438 square yards, an increase of 70.7 per cent. Of this, 940,450,338 square yards were printed by independent establishments and 292,741,100 square yards in cotton (245) 246 MANUFACTURES. mills, an increase of 62.2 per cent and 105.3 per cent, respectively. The facts relating to the dyeing and finishing of cot- ton goods and silk goods are set forth in the reports on those branches of the textile industry. It has been explained that those relating to the wool industry are not ascertainable in a way to throw much light upon the subject. The following tables and remarks apply to the independent establishments only. Table 1 presents a comparative summary of the in- dustry of dyeing and finishing textiles during the last half century. Table 1.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY, 1850 TO 1900, WITH PER CENT OF INCREASE FOR EACH DECADE. DATE OF CENSUS. 1900 1890 1880 1870 1860 1850 PEE CENT OF INCREASE. 1890 to 1900 1880 to 1S90 1870 tc 1880 1860 to 1870 1850 to 1860 Number of establishments Capital Salaried officials, clerks, etc., number. Salaries Wage-earners, average number Total wages Men, 16 years and over Wages Women, 16 years and over Wages Children, under 16 years Wages Miscellaneous expenses Cost of materials used Value of products 860, 643, 1, $2, 267, 29, $12, 726, 24, $11,361 4 $1, 166 1 $198! $4, 137, $17,958. $44,963 248 $38,460,800 2 666 « $805, 291 19, 601 $8,911,720 16, 510 $8, 147, 844 2,298 $620, 390 793 $143,486 $3,131,081 $12,385,220 $28, 900, 560 191 $26,223,981 16, 698 $6,474,364 12,788 ( 3 ) 2,038 ( 3 ) 1,872 ( s ) (*) $13, 664, 295 $32, 297, 420 42 $13,367,553 8,894 $«,438,089 6,092 C s ) 1,393 m 1,409 ft $46,373,358 $54, 446, 044 29 $3,517,250 4,005 $1,088,296 3,433 ( 3 ) 572 (?) $3, 922, 1 8. $3,884,815 $7, 971, 064 $1 sio, $13, 4, 088,904 3,351 ( 8 ) 729 t 3 ) ( 3 ) 462, 044 680,805 20.2 57.7 97.9 181.5 51.9 42.8 47.9 39.4 85.1 88.1 39.2 38.1 32.2 45.0 55.6 29.8 46.6 354.8 96.2 44.8 280.1 '31.0 U0. 3 17.4 37.6 29.1 87.7 88.3 109.9 122. 1 215.9 77.5 U.8 '0.1 2.4 121.5 19.4 U0.5 170.5 140.7 1093. 7 583.0 162.9 H1.7 1 Decrease. 2 Includes proprietors and firm members, with their salaries; number only reported in 1900, but not included in this table. a Not reported separately. 4 Not reported. (See Table 5.) The statements for 1850 and I860 included only the statistics of calico printing and satinet printing, but it may be fairly assumed that these processes were sub- stantially the only ones which came properly under the head of dyeing and finishing thai were then performed on a large scale in the United States. During the last half century the amount of capital employed in the industry has increased more than fifteenfold. It nearly doubled between 1870 and 1880, increased 46.6 per cent between 1880 and 1890, and 57.7 per cent during the last decade. The number of wage-earners increased at a smaller ratio, but the increase from 1890 to 1900 was substantially equal to the increase of capital. The statements of materials used and value of prod- ucts are necessarily misleading in one respect, namely, that in 1870 the total value of the yarn and cloth oper- ated upon were reported as cost of materials, and the value of the goods after the operations were performed was reported as the total value. This accounts for the inconsistency in the cost of materials and value of prod- ucts shown for 1870 compared with similar items at other censuses. Table 2 exhibits the general facts relating to the industry in detail as ascertained at the censuses of 1890 and 1900. DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. Table 2.— COMPARATIVE SUMMARY BY STATES: 1890 AND 1900. 247 Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. CAPITAL. SALARIED OFFI- CIALS, CLERKS, ETC. AVERAGE NUMBER WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. STATES. Total. Land. Buildings. Machinery, tools, and imple- ments. Cash and sundries. Num- ber. Salaries. Average number. Total wages. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Chil- dren, under 16 years. United States.. 1900 1890 298 248 860, 643, 104 38,450,800 85, 304, 949 2, 579, 114 812, 251, 886 7, 596, 641 817, 750, 574 9, 703, 284 825,335,695 18, 571, 761 1,318 666 82, 267, 128 805, 291 29, 776 19, 601 812, 726, 316 8,911,720 24,419 16, 610 4,253 2,298 1,104 793 Connecticut .•. . . 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 !1890 1900 1890 1900 U890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 U890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 5 5 4 3 3 3, 243, 744 775, 352 113, 694 26, 500 161, 239 482, 100 58, 700 7,500 3,500 7,800 1, 004, 388 331, 184 42,000 6,000 28,922 929, 262 231, 212 50, 800 11, 000 55, 455 827, 994 154, 256 13, 394 6,000 69,062 39 12 7 5 7 100, 884 14,250 6,700 2,532 9,090 1,300 477 84 16 116 578, 756 237, 102 27,878 7,892 45,225 1,015 390 69 13 83 238 85 10 3 25 47 2 5 Kentucky 8 Massachusetts .. New Hampshire 37 33 5 15,206,200 11, 996, 154 383, 704 1,161,503 673, 931 61, 000 1, 960, 972 2, 010, 687 153, 000 2,499,388 2, 502, 895 173, 500 9, 584, 337 6, 808, 641 496, 204 239 82 21 547, 862 99, 320 23, 900 4,678 4,270 1,028 2,081,015 1,809,787 451, 960 3,846 3,527 *789 735 539 239 97 204 New Jersey New York North Carolina . 59 41 42 49 5 11,600,695 5, 197, 403 6, 230, 657 4, 963, 095 293, 831 651, 481 333, 936 339, 909 366, 300 4,700 2,100,396 879, 577 1,335,748 721, 700 33,800 4, 624, 059 1, 782, 696 2, 097, 541 1,137,566 184, 022 4, 224, 759 2, 201, 194 2,457,459 2,737,529 71,309 353 129 107 114 8 614, 910 179,425 134, 345 137, 473 6,650 7,074 3,735 3,117 2,725 184 3, 003, 491 1,878,137 1,424,578 1, 344, 250 45, 340 6,120 3,335 2,395 2,174 142 786 346 636 415 42 168 64 86 136 Pennsylvania. . . Rhode Island . . . All other states 3 . 105 83 24 22 9 12 7, 679, 906 6, 296, 340 12, 853, 123 5, 739, 692 2,376,311 3,456,264 733, 612 598, 647 1, 572, 306 432,600 283, 038 111,600 1,290,133 1,354,200 3, 765, 314 1,832,398 537, 213 460, 895 2, 368, 629 1, 839, 121 3, 862, 803 1,498,323 905, 115 700, 471 3, 287, 532 2, 504, 372 3, 652, 700 1, 976, 371 650, 945 2, 183, 398 216 190 256 101 65 33 260, 277 207, 257 449, 996 130, 059 112, 514 34, 976 4,716 3,355 5,942 3,619 1,537 1,404 2, 065, 752 1,596,565 2,474,042 1, 462, 996 528, 279 574, 991 4,013 2,964 4,644 2,904 1,303 1,203 346 212 1,039 570 157 128 357 179 259 145 77 73 Year. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Miscellaneous expenses. COST OF MATERIALS USED. STATES. Total. Chemicals and dyestuffs. Starch. Soap. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. All other materials. Value of products. United States . 1900 1890 298 248 $4, 137, 947 3,131,081 817,958,137 12,385,220 810,667,621 8,407,693 8874, 643 660,577 $563,809 279,272 82,165,091 1,647,848 853, 730 23, 138 83, 633, 243 1,366,692 844, 963, 331 28,900,560 Connecticut 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 US90 1900 1890 1900 21890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 U890 1900 1890 1900 1890 1900 1890 5 5 4 3 3 216, 075 77, 336 6,913 1,426 9,702 907,377 300,360 32,523 6,846 84,023 561, 619 114, 126 18, 966 4,270 71,518 36,715 17,815 560 17,129 2,049 445 604 160 113,780 58, 711 7,546 1,072 6,300 7,955 170, 179 107, 659 5,006 1,000 1,703 2,269,967 715,388 86,960 26,741 179,123 Kentucky 4,162 180 Massachusetts . . . New Hampshire. 37 33 5 866,829 869,669 111,478 3,110,910 2, 801, 364 636, 469 2,031,072 1,950,550 309, 296 160,016 125,288 23,646 9,506 25,599 25,034 393, 711 404, 778 74,451 5,512 6,413 50 511,093 288,736 203, 992 8,868,290 6,496,215 1, 328, 319 New Jersey New York 59 41 42 49 5 809,580 752, 461 210, 395 367,935 13,366 4,513,768 2, 711, 121 1,402,373 1, 454, 119 95, 210 2,755,553 2,068,192 689, 825 889, 577 13,000 165, 728 109,466 63, 124 73,836 14,834 224,298 83,775 46, 131 44,321 220 411, 178 239, 329 202, 074 216, 618 10,767 9,497 2,500 8,564 4,775 947,514 207, 859 392, 655 224, 992 56,389 10, 488, 963 6,183,397 3,626,882 3,636,051 175, 751 Pennsylvania . . . Rhode Island All other states'. 105 83 24 22 9 12 556,083 419, 456 1,138,065 393,549 200,461 249,249 3, 174, 507 2,395,482 3,087,781 1, 819, 351 913, 196 896,577 2,068,174 1,808,041 1,653,059 1,064,475 495, 539 508,462 94,373 107,269 205,321 129,050 106, 164 97,853 172, 970 80,793 62,048 32,205 5,868 10,026 342, 671 284,546 513, 837 351, 521 88, 776 91,273 8,772 6,250 20 1,200 13, 180 2,000 487, 547 108, 583 653, 496 240, 900 203,669 186, 963 7, 038, 012 5, 240, 761 8, 484, 878 4,743,561 2,417,187 1,858,446 J No establishments reported, 1890. 2 Included in "all other states," 1890. Iowa, Includes establishments distributed as follows: 1900— Alabama, 1; Delaware, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine „ 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Minnesota, 1; Missouri, 1; New Hampshire, 2; Ohio, 2; West Virginia, Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Ohio, 1; West Virginia, 1. 1890— Delaware, 1; ' 1. 248 MANUFACTURES. The number of independent establishments increased during the decade from 248 to 298. Of this increase, 22 are credited to Pennsylvania and 18 to New Jersey, and they indicate a great extension of the business of silk dyeing and finishing in the 2 states where the silk industry is most concentrated. The increase in the other items is more nearly equalized among the states owing to the expansion of individual establishments. Thus, in Connecticut the amount of capital reported is more than four times as great in 1900 as in 1890, although the number of establishments is the same. Rhode Island, with only 2 additional establishments, has more than doubled its capital, and Massachusetts, although adding but 4 establishments, has 26.8 per cent greater capital. The same fact appears in the statement of the average number of wage-earners, for although nearly one-half of the increase has taken place in the states of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, there has also been a large increase in the New England states, where the number of establishments has not substantially in- creased. Of the total cost of materials used, $17,958,137, the cost of chemicals and dyestuffs represents a value of $10,667,621, or about 59.4 per cent of the whole. In 1890 the corresponding percentage was about 67. 9 per cent — a fact which illustrates the decline which has taken place during the decade in the cost of such ma- terials. The increase in the added value given to fabrics by the processes to which they were subjected is 55.6 per cent in comparison with an increase of 45 per cent in the cost of materials used. The difference is due to the fact that, while the cost of materials has declined, the items of wages and miscellaneous expenses have not. Table 3 presents the quantity and value of all classes of goods operated upon and value added in independent establishments, 1890 and 1900. Table 3.— COMPAEATIVE SUMMARY, KINDS AND QUAN- TITY OF GOODS OPERATED UPON AND VALUE ADDED BY INDEPENDENT ESTABLISHMENTS, 1890 AND 1900. 1900 1S90 Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. 844,963,331 828, 900, 560 Total 118,097,838 8,097,439 85,575,424 6, 001, 754 Cotton stock, bleached 300,650 12, 466, 700 2, 408, 511 12, 780, 518 54, 103, 555 868, 851 20, 755, 984 8,474,562 5, 609, 444 329,063 4,823 572, 661 83,071 252, 635 2,226,912 159, 616 557,001 491,291 3, 615, 644 133, 785 4,676,344 1,160,666 204, 827 48,828 48, 762, 759 2, 036, 127 17, 999, 651 9, 342, 157 3, 322, 017 311,830 751,801 493, 974 Silk yarn, dyed i. Spun silk yarn, dyed 2,346,387 119,810 Square yards. Value. Square yards. Value. Total 2, 511, 485, 729 834,599,542 1,569,422,631 $22,514,000 Cotton piece goods, bleached Cotton piece goods, dyed Cotton piece goods, mercer- 964,902,367 559,480,339 7,973,506 940, 450, 338 11,243,394 9,413,337 14, 340, 796 3, 681, 652 6,691,423 7,585,204 400,118 15, 997, 087 451, 864 476, 951 481,463 335,154 2, 180, 278 454, 357, 758 446,496,822 3,369,940 5,671,488 Cotton piece goods, printed . Woolen piece goods, dyed. . . Worsted piece goods, dyed . . Silk piece goods, dyed Silk piece goods, printed 579,667,368 \ 20,779,034 7,405,399 10,355,032 652, 998 394, 777 60, 716, 250 2, 069, 765 2, 266, 350 384,806 Inasmuch as the dyeing and finishing of goods in cotton mills represents generally merely work upon their own products, the true measure of increase of the business is discovered more from the foregoing table than from a combination of the two. It will be seen that there has been an increase in almost all depart- ments of dyeing and finishing, but the increase is much less marked in the case of woolen goods than in cotton and silk. Table 4 shows, by states, with totals for the United States, the returns of establishments engaged in dyeing and finishing cotton, woolen, and worsted, silk, and mixed goods, and yarns, respectively, 1900, and Table 5 presents a detailed summary of the industry for 1900. 250 MANUFACTURES. Table 4.— DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES: COTTON GOODS AND YARNS. STATES. Num- ber of estab- lish- ments. Capital. AVERAGE NUMBER OF WAGE-EARNERS AND TOTAL WAGES. Average number. Wages. Men, 16 years and over. Women, 16 years and over. Children, under 16 years. 1 173 $52,287,850 23, 236 $9,847,474 18,847 3,433 956 9. 5 3 33 4 20 17 5 56 20 10 3,243,744 161, 239 14, 927, 375 675, 704 7, 264, 547 4,969,763 ' 293,831 5,799,650 12,673,769 2,388,228 1,300 116 4,577 903 3,459 2,143 184 3,286 5,760 1,508 578, 756 45,225 2, 031, 255 409, 960 1,467,571 997, 175 45,340 1,369,807 2, 389, 911 i 512,474 1,015 83 3,771 749 2,809 1,708 142 2,748 4,531 1,291 238 25 709 154 552 349 42 254 973 137 47 8 97 3 4 5 6 98 86 7 s p 284 256 80 in n WOOLEN GOODS AND WORSTED GOODS AND YARNS. 1 33 $1,561,790 1,236 $603, 100 1,076 137 23 9 3 3 23 4 128, 749 63, 322 1,201,442 168,277 64 45 942 185 23,819 19, 965 477, 081 82, 235 44 44 867 121 20 1 54 62 S A 21 2 5 MIXED GOODS AND YARNS. 1 41 $2, 365, 930 1,416 $598,653 956 404 56 9 6 10 20 5 276, 987 1,010,952 492, 061 575, 930 99 685 355 277 46, 740 288,464 147, 877 116, 572 91 444 272 149 5 241 33 125 3 3 4 50 3 5 SILK GOODS AND YARNS. ^ 51 $4,437,534 3,888 $1, 677, 089 3,540 279 69 32 13 6 4, 052, 461 198, 320 186, 753 3,510 245 133 1,486,628 119, 474 70, 987 3,214 200 126 229 45 5 67 i\ 2 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Delaware, 2; Illinois, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; West Virginia, 1. includes establishments distributed as follows: Illinois, 1; New Jersey, 1; Ohio, 1; Rhode Island, 1. 3 Includes 1 establishment in Massachusetts and 1 in New Hampshire. * Includes 1 establishment in Illinois. DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. 251 BY CLASSES OF TEXTILES, 1900. COTTON GOODS AND YARNS. POWER. Printing machines. Miscellaneous expenses. COST OF MATERIALS TJSEn. Value of prod- ucts. Steam horse- power. Water horse- power. All other horse- power. Total. Chemicals and dyestuffs. Fuel. Rent of power and heat. All other ma- terials. 49, 415 9,074 3,316 298' S3, 630, 012 814,019,084 88,033,680 81,827,815 836,034 84, 121, 555 836,350,605 1 2,553 284 11,662 20 6,864 5,139 345 7,464 12, 303 2,781 2,166 400 40 122 16 1 68 16 53 49 216, 075 9,702 857, 065 89,128 599,590 123,686 13,366 401,404 1,121,563 198, 433 907, 377 84,023 3,035,697 556, 869 2, 246, 230 1,129,216 95, 210 2,136,181 2,954,298 873, 983 561,619 71, 518 1,984,716 294, 296 1,112,252 585,627 13,000 1, 372, 179 1,573,455 465,018 113, 780 6,300 382,562 72, 251 251,619 170, 774 10, 767 235,871 497,461 86, 530 7,955 180 5,512 50 6,237 1,245 224, 023 6,025 662, 907 190, 272 876, 222 371,570 71,443 526, 476 883,362 309, 255 2,269,967 179, 123 8, 698, 626 1, 132, 819 5,247,300 2, 491, 791 175,750 4,687,405 8,192,350 2,275,374 2 2,300 375 1,330 240 4 fi 7 5 R 35 675 1,963 30 63 2 i, 655 20 13,180 2,577 172 10 11 WOOLEN GOODS AND WORSTED GOODS AND YARNS. 1,792 260 124 8115, 894 8962, 108 8641,413 8106, 686 84,150 8209,859 82,104,418 1 150 10 1,404 228 60 200 3 4 107 10 4,377 2,432 100,417 8,668 45,004 31,751 725, 603 159, 850 32,400 21,557 485,048 102,408 7,764 4,248 75, 620 19,054 4,840 5,546 161,085 38,388 102,114 66,158 1,572,233 363, 913 •> 400 3,750 S 4 5 MIXED GOODS AND YARNS. 2,671 140 79 20 8174, 495 8616,644 8265, 362 868, 131 87,746 8275, 405 81,969,446 1 362 882 1,015 412 20 39 20 27, 510 65, 935 37, 621 43,429 68,020 174,016 215, 316 159, 292 27, 125 40,898 137,779 59, 660 9,053 20,962 25,155 12, 961 360 4,119 3,267 31, 482 108, 037 49, 115 86, 771 182, 610 804, 213 551,845 430, 778 ? 6 11 3 3 4 140 5 SILK GOODS AND YARNS. 4,204 112 16 8217, 546 82,360,301 81, 727, 166 S162, 459 85,800 8464, 876 85, 538, 962 1 3,767 375 62 112 11 5 182, 248 18, 657 16,641 2, 194, 665 68,129 97, 507 1,611,955 42, 043 73, 168 150,044 6,390 6,025 2,900 2,800 100 429,766 16, 896 18, 214 5,046,088 266, 346 226, 529 ?. 3 4 252 MANUFACTURES. Table 5.— DYEING AND FINISHING Number of establishments Character o( organization: Individual Finn and limited partnership """"!!"!"!""" Incorporated company Miscellaneous Capital: Total Land Buildings Machinery, tools, and implements Cash and sundries Proprietors and firm members ".'.'..".'.'.'.".'.'. Salaried officials, clerks, etc.: Total number Total salaries Officers of corporations — Number Salaries ...WW. WWW. General -superintendents, managers, clerks, etc.— Total number Total salaries " . Men- Number Salaries Women — Number Salaries ] . Wage-earners, including pieceworkers, and total wages: Greatest number employed at any one time during the year. Least number employed at any one time during the year . . . Average number Wages \\\\ Men, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Women, 16 years and over — Average number Wages Children under 16 years — Average number United States. 103 81 114 Average number of wage-earners, including pieceworkers, employed during each month: Men, 16 years and over — January February " " [ " * ' March April .....WW... May June July ........:..:::::.:: August September October November *. . ' ' December '_' Women, 16 years and over 1 — January February March April ;;.; May June July ;.;;; August September October November December ' Children, under 16 years — January February March April May June juiy ;;; August September October November December Miscellaneous expenses: Total Rent of works Taxes, not including internal revenue Rent of offices, insurance, interest, and all sundry expenses not hith- erto included. Contract work Materials used: Aggregate cost Chemicals and dyestuffs — Cost Starch- Pounds Cost Silk soap — Pounds Cost. Other soap — Pounds Cost Fuel Rent of power and heat. Mill supplies All other materials Freight $60,643,104 $5, 304, 949 812,251,886 817,750,674 825,335,696 300 1,318 82,267,128 211 8814, 895 1,107 81, 452, 233 994 $1,401,799 113 850,434 33,387 26, 275 29, 776 812,726,316 24, 419 811,361,194 4,263 $1,166,972 1,104 $198, 150 24,387 24,093 24,497 24,728 24,606 24,020 23,836 23,885 24,020 24, 757 25,070 25,229 4,374 4,328 4,359 4,344 4,256 4,147 4,010 4,008 4,135 4,304 4,347 4,424 1,093 1,073 1,080 1,095 1,075 1,089 1,111 1,125 1,113 1,124 1,130 1,140 $4, 137, 947 $145, 075 8281, 974 $3, 669, 163 $41,735 $17, 958, 137 810,667,621 33,850,002 8874, 643 5, 105, 575 8232, 706 9, 835, 976 $331, 103 $2,165,091 $53, 730 $972, 207 82, 171, 482 8489, 554 Connecticut. $3,243,744 $482,100 $1,004,388 $929,262 8827, 994 Illinois. 8100,884 16 $51, 797 23 849, 087 21 $48,050 2 $1,037 1,511 1,184 1,300 $578, 766 1,015 $507, 632 $61,689 47 89,435 950 976 979 1,004 988 1,003 1,012 1,029 1,029 1,031 1,084 1,090 217 221 289 255 253 24(i 216 233 238 225 233 230 45 48 47 44 41 42 60 50 50 49 60 51 $216, 075 $16, 084 $192, 063 $7,928 $907, 377 $561, 619 1,359,532 $36,715 4.200 $210 469, 612 $16, 919 $113,780 $7, 955 $18,840 $103, 804 $47,536 8113,694 87,600 842,000 850, 800 $13, 394 2 7 $6,700 1 $2,500 6 84,200 $2,700 $1,500 113 54 84 827, 878 $24,129 10 $2,925 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 5 6 5 5 5 5 5 $5,913 $4,729 Kentucky. $32,523 $18, 966 46,087 $560 2.500 $136 10,000 $310 $7,546 $629 $568 $3,819 $161,239 $7,800 $28, 922 $55,456 $69, 062 7 $9,090 2 85,300 5 83,790 5 83,790 128 100 116 845,225 83 839,987 25 84,138 81,100 $9,702 $360 $640 $8,702 $84,023 $71, 518 138,754 $4,162 3,200 $160 $6,300 $1,053 DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. 253 TEXTILES: BY STATES, 1900. Massachusetts. New Hampshire. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. All othei states. 1 37 5 59 42 5 105 24 9 1 9 3 22 16 2 46 2 2 2 6 22 7 30 15 11 1 2 46 13 2 20 c 2 7 4 $15,206,200 $883,704 $11,600,695 $6, 230, 657 $293,831 $7,679,906 $12, 853, 123 $2,376,311 e $1, 161, 503 $61,000 $651, 481 $339,909 $4,700 $733,612 $1,572,306 $283,038 'i 81,960,972 $153,000 82, 100, 396 $1, 335, 748 $33,800 $1,290,133 $3,765,314 $537, 213 ^ $2,499,388 $173, 500 84,624,059 82,097,541 $184,022 $2, 368, 629 $3,862,803 $905, 115 i $9,584,337 $496,204 $4,224,759 $2,457,459' $71,309 $3,287,532 $3,652,700 $650, 945 1C 24 4 47 50 5 155 6 4 11 239 21 353 107 8 216 256 65 12 $547,862 $23,900 $614, 910 $134, 345 $6,650 $260,277 $449, 996 $112, 514 Vi 44 $234,656 57 $224,127 10 $27,000 1 $1,000 25 $52,450 45 $174, 605 10 $41,460 14 IE 195 21 296 97 7 191 211 65 ie $313, 206 $23,900 $390, 783 $107, 345 $5,650 $207, 827 $275, 391 $71,054 17 174 18 278 90 6 167 186 46 1£ $303,655 $22,500 $382, 739 $104, 398 $5,150 $196, 656 $264, 575 $67,586 19 21 3 18 7 1 24 25 9 2C $9, 551 $1,400 $8,044 $2,947 $500 $11, 171 $10, 816 $3,468 21 5,287 1,088 8,186 3,520 193 5,303 6,428 1,630 22 3,990 956 6,221 2,787 183 4,128 5,219 1,453 23 4,678 1,028 7,074 3,117 184 4,716 5,942 1,537 24 $2,081,015 $451, 960 $3, 003, 491 $1,424,578 $45,340 $2,065,752 $2,474,042 $528,279 2£ 3,846 789 6,120 2,395 142 4,013 4,644 1,303 26 $1,833,344 $394, 919 $2, 775, 797 $1,244,051 $38,031 $1,905,718 $2, 118, 454 $479,132 27 735 239 786 636 42 346 1,039 157 2E $229,597 .$57,041 $197,093 $166, 424 $7,309 $93,706 $309, 949 $37, 101 2S 97 818, 074 3,904 168 $30,601 86 $14, 103 357 $66,328 259 $45,639 77 $12,046 3C 31 749 6,004 2,420 147 4,087 4,672 1,294 32 3,652 761 6,065 2,451 143 4,023 4,549 1,303 33 3,882 783 6,160 2,467 143 4,086 4,537 1,291 3" 3,877 790 6,171 2,476 140 4,112 4,695 1,304 3E 3,821 810 6,131 2,415 148 4,103 4,635 1,296 3f 3,688 788 6,083 2,327 140 3,949 4,593 1,295 37 3,743 784 5,894 2,243 140 3,932 4,650 1,291 35 3,757 779 6,038 2,336 140 3,814 4,539 1,310 3S 3,888 800 5,870 2,355 137 3,995 4,519 1,277 4C 3,959 805 6,247 2,412 140 3,986 4,696 1,341 41 3,967 810 6,396 2,422 143 4,031 4,764 1,307 1'. 4,008 814 6,378 2,417 143 4,034 4,885 1,323 4S 830 237 810 641 42 352 1,047 150 44 804 214 784 686 42 349 1,031 148 4E 786 216 795 672 42 349 1,005 157 4f 760 229 789 680 42 350 1,036 156 4" 746 237 771 661 42 346 1,008 147 4£ 694 238 781 642 42 339 970 168 4S 631 232 734 579 42 349 1,045 165 5( 643 222 737 584 42 337 1,035 159 51 699 254 724 604 42 361 1,026 158 52 738 . 270 804 613 42 351 1,076 159 5; 733 269 847 633 42 330 1,067 162 55 750 250 856 639 42 339 1,123 161 5E 97 98 97 92 93 89 97 89 100 104 104 .104 $866,829 $7, 517 $86,717 147 142 148 160 161 184 172 176 174 182 181 191 $809,580 $31,554 $35, 296 85 77 82 83 80 82 87 92 89 94 94 89 $210, 395 $29,067 $34, 749 383 378 374 378 363 348 342 337 344 342 346 349 $556,083 $68,990 $28,293 258 251 253 261 260 253 257 273 257 258 262 264 $1, 138, 065 $4,805 $49, 140 66 67 67 65 65 78 93 95 86 82 80 79 $200, 461 $810 $16,187 5( 5' 5f 5< 6( 6 6: 6' 6< 6. 6 6 $111, 478 $250 $14, 478 $13, 366 $822 $1, 106 61 6 7 $756, 802 $16, 793 $3, 110, 910 $96,750 8738, 914 $3,816 $4,513,768 $140, 586 $5,993 $1,402,373 $11, 438 $455,595 $3,205 $3, 174, 507 $1,080,120 $4,000 $3,087,781 $183,464 7 7 $636, 469 $95, 210 $913,196 7 $2,031,072 $309,296 $2, 755, 553 $689, 825 $13, 000 $2, 068, 174 $1,653,059 $495, 539 7 5, 335, 681 $160, 016 1, 253, 651 $23, 646 6, 095, 590 $165, 728 3, 159, 877 863, 124 751, 376 $14,834 4,598,202 $94, 373 7, 281, 216 $205, 321 3,830,036 $106, 164 7 7 26,412 $1,369 186,838 $8,137 $393, 711 $5,512 $176, 010 $287, 452 847, 631 4, 499, 357 $200,414 751, 999 $23,884 $411, 178 $9,497 $200,419 $631, 996 $115,099 181, 779 $9, 035 387, 827 $21, 283 2,000 $100 1,500 $160 7 1,157,160 $25,034 $74,451 $50 $2,443 $174,296 $27,253 892, 166 $37,096 $202, 074 $8,564 $78, 617 $277, 042 $36, 996 4,000 $220 $10, 767 4,484,594 $151,687 $342,671 $8,772 $198, 651 $264, 743 $24, 153 1, 701, 566 $61, 948 $513, 837 $20 $251, 169 $305, 883 $96,444 174,841 $5,708 $88,776 $13, 180 $41,169 $76, 020 1 $86,480 7 8 8 8 $3,610 $48,635 $4,144 8 8 8 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama, 1: Delaware, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Ohio, 1: West Virginia, 1. 254 MANUFACTURES. Table 5. -DYEING AND FINISHING United States. Connecticut. Illinois. Kentucky. 86 Products: Aggregate value 844, 963,331 2, 408, 611 883, 071 20,755,984 8557, 001 8 1 , 474, 562 8491,291 11, 243, 394 8451, 864 9, 413, 337 8476, 951 300, 650 $4,823 12,466,700 8572, 661 12, 780, 518 $262, 635 54, 103, 555 $2, 226, 912 868, 851 8159. 616 964,902,367 $6, 691, 423 659, 480, 339 $7, 585, 204 7,973,506 $400, 118 940, 450, 338 815, 997, 087 5, 609, 444 $3, 615, 644 329, 063 8133, 785 14, 340, 796 $481,463 3,681,652 8335, 154 82, 180, 278 82,266,350 334 321 13 242 $39, 860, 766 834,031,814 273 71,187 1,535 57, 216 2 8 86 9,474 , 131 1,949 9 1,624 50 866 285 82,269,967 886,960 $179, 123 87 Wool dyed- 88 Yarn dyed — Woolen- 89 39, 600 $2,900 90 91 Worsted— 92 Value 93 Piece goods, dyed- Woolen— 350,000 $18, 400 94 95 Worsted — 9fi 97 Cotton stock- Bleached — 98 99 Dyed- 40,000 $2, 000 ino im Cotton yarn — Bleached— 10? 103 Dyed- 360,000 816,500 1, 960, 000 834, 600 1,000 8150 3,456,600 $17, 283 830,000 87,252 1,651,347 $38,769 104 ins Mercerized — 106 107 Cotton piece goods — Bleached — 290,000 $2, 400 84,204,496 $1,290,441 580, 000 829,000 45,755,428 8827,885 108 109 Dyed- 13, 000, 000 $140, 354 110 111 Mercerized— IV? 113 Printed — 111 115 Silk, dyed- 5,200 82, 600 50 825 11, 500 8567 116 117 Spun silk, dyed — 111 119 Silk piece goods- Dyed— T'O 1°1 Printed — ,.,., T>3 Mixed goods — 1?4 All other work done $103, 741 16 16 81,183 1°5 Machinery: Printing machines — 1 1 1% On cotton — 1°7 On silk- Comparison of products: 4 81,967,267 81,425,445 5 5,109 89 2,553 4 $86, 960 888,326 4 159 6 169 2 8167,063 8116,422 3 324 7 280 Power: Owned— Engines — Steam- Gas or gasoline- 137 Water wheels- 15 2,166 6 385 139 Electric motors — 3 40 Other power — Rented— 15 4 145 Furnished to other establishments- 126 DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. TEXTILES: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. 255 Massachusetts. New Hampshire. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. All other states. 1 $8,868,290 40,328 82,043 100, 800 $7,059 382, 525 $29, 002 438, 520 $19, 952 29, 650 $1, 743 2,771,290 $249, 114 6,453,500 $98, 662 7, 158, 907 $294, 909 276, 321, 266 $1,637,830 90, 458, 727 $1,060,761 262, 619, 600 $5, 135, 021 262, 964 $20, 350 $44,618 $267, 226 29 $7, 979, 753 $6,774,611 37 14, 417 281 11, 93J 24 2,360 125 $1, 328, 319 99,452 $3,847 150,000 $4,500 2,500 $125 18,736,899 $130, 007 7,918,490 $93,044 50,418,199 $885,405 $192, 500 $18, 711 $1, 124, 305 $1,044,960 4 535 4 515 $10,488,963 150,798 $9, 151 62,800 $4,395 1,720,699 $29, 990 28,500 $2,280 189, 991 $22, 000 2,000 $3,000 70,447,673 $745, 542 91, 876, 898 $1,340,301 36, 322 $1,365 187,425,755 $2, 909, 981 4,837,010 $3,287,048 220,629 $109, 257 13,997,451 $459, 675 3,394,688 $312, 880 $640, 740 $574, 749 44 $8,722,830 $7,876,560 49 12, 463 10, 943 17 1,330 128 $3, 625, 882 169, 187 $9, 388 190,000 $9, 400 673, 560 $44,356 200,000 $1,000 1,837,281 $54, 477 57, 156 $2, 720 1,440,328 $85,168 1,100 $110 23,197,762 $202, 410 19,041,259 $227, 353 150,432,209 $1, 872, 721 350, 460 $124, 411 41,000 $10,796 331, 845 $21, 221 24,000 $1,924 $303, 422 $655, 005 $3,470,303 $3, 079, 998 41 6,885 203 6,321 $175, 750 50,000 $1,030 2, 715, 663 $16, 262 $124, 000 $113,000 $115, 000 4 350 10 34ft $7,038,012 1,988,000 $56,470 20, 425, 584 $537, 642 6, 487, 737 $343,844 9, 901, 550 $381,196 5,381,206 $227, 878 60,000 $1,750 5, 347, 978 $196, 203 3,637,567 $89, 123 34,174,822 $1, 265, 786 786, 751 $146, 996 6,814, $50, 63, 547, $1,023, 79, 79,013, $1,428, 416, $201, 67,: $13,' $542, 141 $526,815 90 ,334,059 .,205,184 93 10, 107 316 9,579 12(1 366 120 $8,484,878 858,000 $68, 700 391,476 $15, 659 1,265,133 $50, 605 600, 000 $36, 000 2, 453, 795 $55, 350 6, 709, 637 $438, 163 .78,000 388, 442, 903 $2,605,031 108, 125, 288 $1,576,822 7, 277, 774 $365, 292 162, 185, 904 $2, 859, 574 $332, 857 $71,465 21 $7,478,038 $6,478,137 24 15, 897 256 12,643 7 675 92 1,077 5 1,500 $2,417,187 60, 198 $6, 019 9,940 2, 328, 478 $178, 516 5,000 $150 456, 023 $30, 892 174,479,143 $1, 284, 572 0,477,628 $825, 047 2,600,000 $78,000 $12, 997 2 2 $2,417 187 $1, 827, 201 9 4,941 27 2,451 12 1,963 15 182 i Includes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama, 1: Delaware, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Ohio, 1; West Virginia, 1. 256 MANUFACTURES. Table 5.— DYEING AND FINISHING ' United States. Connecticut. Illinois. Kentucky. 146 Establishments classified by number of persons employed not including pro- prietors and firm members: Total number of establishments 298 19 82 74 50 39 13 18 3 5 4 1 3 147 Under 5 148 5to20 149 21to50 • " 1 2 1 2 1 151) 51 to 100 151 101 to 250 2 1 -152 251 to 500 : I5S 501 to 1,000 154 Over 1,000 1 DYEING AND FINISHING TEXTILES. TEXTILES: BY STATES, 1900— Continued. 257 Massachusetts. New Hampshire. New Jersey. New York. North Carolina. Pennsylvania. Rhode Island. All other States. 1 37 1 7 6 10 S 3 2 5 2 59 3 14 10 14 6 7 5 42 1 18 13 3 4 1 2 5 105 10 39 34 16 3 24 1 1 2 2 12 1 4 1 9 146 147 3 148 4 2 1 149 1 1 150 2 151 153 1 2 1 2 153 154 * Includes establishments distributed as follows: Alabama, 1; Delaware, 2; Indiana, 1; Maine, 1; Maryland, 2; Ohio, 1; West Virginia, 1. MON TEXT 17