31 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Cornell University Library DT 646.B97 Land of the pigmies, 3 1924 028 653 271 DATE DUE TJECT? WH-.y^^mf 7?-S~ -..^;^2 CAYLORO PRINTED IN U a O &< o H THE LAND OF THE PKfMIES 7 and the following morning we started along the caravan road for Stanley Pool, distant about 23(J miles. This rough track, which crosses a hilly district east of Matadi, is mere waste land, unbroken by any trees or signs of life. Nothing more dreary can be imagined than its bare rocks and stony slopes, and scanty blades of a coarse, ragged grass ; nothing more cheerless than the dull monotony of the surrounding landscape. At each stage small shelters have been built for the use of the State agents — poor huts of poles and grass, too roughly run up to be even weather- proof, and miserable makeshifts until the long- talked-of railway should be made. Ten days' march brought us to Lukungu, a station midway between Matadi and the Pool, where we met Baron Dhanis and Doctor Hinde making for the coast, homeward bound with flying colours after their successful raid against Arab slave-dealers. On September 6th we reached Leopoldville, a station first planted by Mr. Stanley on a hill which overlooks the great sheet of water known by his name. Waiting here for a steamer to take us on to the Upper Congo, we found ourselves among many white traders and members of the American and French Missions, the latter established with a large and well-built church. The native tribes in these parts include the Musseronges on the 8 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES islands and river-side from Banana to Matadi ; the Kakongos on the right bank, between the sea and Boma ; the BaoiUs along the coast, and the Mayombes inland. Speaking generally the people of the Lower Congo are tall and well built, with supple liinbs formed more for agility than strength, and oval heads and faces, quick with intelligent vivacity. Their w^omen are larger and stronger than the men, and they all, in common with other races of the Congo, are remarkable for their small hands and feet, on which are bracelets and anklets of a size that no European could wear. Tattooing is very general, covering but a small part of their brown bodies ; and as a rule the hair is worn short. Families are distinguished by a singular method of filing the teeth to a point, or cutting them square, or in regular semicircles, The Baoilis, a mixed tribe unfriendly to the Avhites, live upon oysters, and distil salt from sea water. The Ma3'ombes, a wilder race, are hand- some and robust. The Musseronges hold them- selves aloof entirely from the rest, and are so independent that not even the most imminent peril will induce them to combine with their neighbours against a common enemy. The food of these tribes on the coast is more varied than that of the natives in the interior of Africa. Their women do the cooking, grinding H 1^ P O o H 4" o o K o "A O o THE LAND OF THE PI0MIE8 11 and sifting the manioc, a Hour which forms the gromidwork of their diet, and busy witli household duties, while their children play about the huts, and babies sleep peacefully, rocked on their mothers' hips. Over a fire of wood that burns between three large stones these native cooks prepare an excellent broth, a hotchpot of odds and ends stewed wath capsicum in palm oil. This they eat out of wooden basins with wooden POTTEEY OP LOWER UBANGHI. spoons and knives, drinking from earthenware or carved wood cups ; and though tables are un- known to them they have excellent taste in the manufacture of porous vases and pottery. In habits of personal cleanliness these African children of nature are a wholesome example to many in more civilised life. When they live near the river, or any water, they bathe several times a day, and in forests w^here this is impossible they smear their bodies with layers of oil and red powder, which they scrape off frequently. After each meal they linse their mouths with water, and 12 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES rub their teeth with the forefinger or with a rude toothbrush of fibrous wood. The most popular costume — scanty, but suffi- cient for the chmate — consists of gaudy stufEs imported from Europe, which they drape in bold folds round their hips and loins. Large patterns and a change of fashion are a delight to them, while for choice of colours red, white, and black find special favour ; yellow does not come amiss, blue is tolerated, but green is rejected utterly. On great occasions their kings and princes array themselves in grotesque magnificence, dis- carding trousers altogether, but otherwise be- decked with bright remnants of European uniforms. Kings in full dress use skins of leopards or wild cats as aprons, and carry long canes tipped with an ivory or wooden fetish knob, and they and their subjects of all ranks and both sexes wear large earrings. Most of these people believe in the existence of a Supreme Being, who lives above the clouds, and does not trouble Himself about mortals whom He has created. More attention, however, is paid to their fetiches, or petty gods, who are thought to busy themselves with the affairs of men. These, especially the fetich of death, are addressed through priests, the ministers of fetich-worship, who consult the image, or fetich, in cases of crime or injury, in order to discover who is guilty of the deed. , •sn'/fiie^ MASK OF MEDICINE MAN. THE LAND OF THE PIOMIES 15 Crowned with leaves, and decked with tinsel, carrying in his left hand a bag of eagles' beaks and jackals' claws, drunk with palm wine, the priest dances and yells, and ends presently by declaring the name of the offender. At other times he will pose as a physician, or medicine-man, and make himself a terror to the simple folk by his assumption of supernatural powers, which to their credulous minds cloak his cruelty and avarice. We shall form a general idea of the people of these parts if we picture to ourselves a village in the Babuendi district, with a cluster of perhaps three hundred huts perched on the hilltop, clear of any danger or surprise. These huts are rectangular, with overhanging gables and verandas, under which natives of both sexes may be seen smoking clay pipes with stems of wood or iron. If caravans are passing porters stop to refresh themselves. If it is meal time men and women are eating apart from one another. You may tell the married women by a covering worn upon their breasts, and natives of the north bank by their pretty headdresses of palm fibre. All the women, and some of the chief raen, show an increasing taste for bracelets, anklets, and collars, and as they move to and fro in bright sunshine the scene is at once novel and picturesque. Our voyage up the river was comparatively un- eventful. We started at day-break, keeping close 16 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES to one side or the other, under thickl}' wooded banks. There is no life to be seen in this dense growth of trees, brush, and creepers except an occasional crocodile, lying like a log at the water's edge, or a solitary monkey, or a passing flight of screaming grey parrots. At about five o'clock the boats usually made fast for the night to the bank, while the whole of the crew and black passengers set to work cutting dry wood for the steamer's con- sumption next day. Passing the post of Berghe St. Marie, where stands the Roman Catholic Mission and colony for young children, and Tchumbiri, we reached Lukolela, the post founded, by Glave in 1883. This station, situated in the midst of some magniflcent giant trees, is well known to every white man in the State because of the excellent tobacco grown there, and the timber ^\'ill be valuable when means are found of convey- ing it to the coast, and thence to the European market. On September 14th we arrived at the Equator station, where we enjoyed the delicious luxuries of fresh bread and vegetables. Retracing our steps down the Congo, we ascended the Ubanghi, which was in full flood, swollen with rains, and flowing with so strong a current that we could not make much way against the stream. On September '28rd we reached Songo, after passing through rapids which are only possible for TYPE OP EBCTANGULAE HUT. THE LAND OF THE PIOMIES 19 small steamers. Starting forward again with only two other white men, I made my first acquaintance with "dug-out" canoes. There were five rapids to be tackled on the route, but by keeping close to the bank, and hauling ourselves along by means of projecting branches, we came through to Mokoangai without mishap. Here Captain Tison, the com- GOODWILL STARTING FROM BOPOTO. mandant, made us most welcome, and did all in his power for our comfort and amusement, so that, though sport was impossible owing to the marshy ground, the time passed pleasantly enough in his company, and with five other white men, two of whom were stationed there, and three waiting, as we were, for the steamer to take them on. 20 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES We left Mokoangai on the 8th of October in the small paddle-steamer En Avant, one of Stanley's original fleet, but owing to the head of water in the river we did not reach Banzyville until the YOUNG GIBL, HIGHEE UBANGHI. 16th. This station is built at the very edge of a large rapid, and, with its excellent kitchen garden, is the work of Captain Hermans, an officer of the Grenadiers. The houses are well built of brick, THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 21 and the garden is stocked with an abundance of vegetables ; fish, too, caught by the natives in the rapids, are plentiful. An attack of fever kept me prisoner here for nearly a fortnight. It was at this station that I witnessed an amus- ing incident, showing the faith of the native chiefs in the white man's power. The head-man of a neighbouring village came to complain to Captain Hermans that several of his men refused to obey his orders. He requested permission to bring in the culprits, that Captain Hermans might have a flogging administered to them. Naturally the captain was disinclined to interfere with the domestic policy of the native community, but as the chief insisted that he was himself powerless to inflict adequate punishment upon the offenders, permission was given to bring his men to the station. No one thought for a moment that he would turn up again, but at two o'clock he reappeared with four men, who came quite willingly and with- out the least show of force. On being introduced to the commandant as the four culprits, they all smiled and grinned, as though they were enjoying their share in some great joke. They were asked if they had been brought there by their chief to receive punishment. " Oh yes, it was quite true," they said, " quite correct — that was precisely what they had come for." All the time they were 22 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES laughing and smiling in complete unconcern. The commandant, seeing they evidently did not under- stand the meaning of punishment, and after again appealing to the chief, sent for a corporal and told him to flog the four men. Their idea of receiving punishment was peculiar. NATIVE OF HIGHEli UBANGHI, The first man lay down on his stomach, the next man lay flat on top of him, surmounted by the other two. Perhaps they thought- the top one could be thrashed for the whole party, or that it might make things easier for the corporal. When it was explained that each was to be beaten THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 23 separately there ^Yas a slight discussion as to who should receive first punishment. Having settled this delicate point among themselves, the three stood by to look on while their comrade submitted to his strokes. With the first blow the gentleman on the ground began to think things were not quite so funny. When his half-dozen had been admini- stered he rose to his feet, turned round, and looked at his companions, the expression on his face a mixture of disgust and humour — disgust at the pain, humour in his pretence that the operation was not at all a painful one, so that he might enjoy its efiect on his friends. As they went away at last the chief alone was laughing ; the faces of the others were serious and composed. The following fact illustrates the untruth of the stories of inhumanity with which the Congo officers are so often charged. While I was at the station some natives from the neighbourhood brought in a man whom they had caught. He was from the interior, and would in the ordinary course of events have been killed and eaten by his captors, who had fastened him to a heavy block of wood, so that he could not escape. Without hesitation Hermans bought him for fifty pieces of iron, and after a short time set him free, and sent him home. The French have also a station at Banzyville, standing on the high bank on the opposite side of 24 THK LAND OF THE PIOMIES the river to that of the Congo State, which is at the water's edge. Embarking from Banzyville in dug-outs, I arrived at Yakoma on the 2nd of November, the voyage being made without particular event, except for the diversion of passing occasional rapids. We found that the station on the right bank, which had been given over to the French, was completely sub- merged, and that the State station was. in course of construction on the left bank ; but, as there was no house finished, only a few huts were available for our accommodation. At Yakoma I found M. Georges le Marinel, captain of Engineers, and Inspector of State for the Ubanghi district, the officer who conducted negotiations with the French diplomatists with reference to the relative boundaries, and owing to whose courtesy, tact, and diplomacy, friction be- tween France and Belgium was avoided. On the day that I arrived a French officer from the other bank had sent- over a dozen bottles of wine as a present — a very welcome addition to our supplies. Leaving Yakoma on the 9th of November, my troubles began. Hitherto everything had gone smoothly and without a check. I was accompanied by Lieutenant Devenyns of the twelfth line regi- ment, and fifty men. We were given two Norden- feldt seven-pounders with all accessories, and some fifty cases of shot and shell. These, with our own THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 27 baggage, more than filled the five large canoes which had been placed at our disposal. For the first two days the voyage was easy enough, hindered by no broken water or very rapid currents ; but difiiculties and dangers were soon to overtake us. It was on this journey that I first saw the cere- mony of blood-brotherhood. A littl ..chief insisted on becoming my blood-brother, and, anxious to see how it was done, I consented. The rite was carried ' out in the following manner: in the open air, and in thei. presence of all the -assembled chiefs and people, I was seated opposite to my prospective brother. A small incision was made in each of our forearms, half-way between the hand and elbow, from which a little blood oozed. The proper performance would have been for each of us to lick the blood of the other, but on this occasion we decided to dispense with that part of the rite, merely rubbing the cuts one against the other, and thus commingling our blood. When this was done the representative of my ' ' brother ' ' got up and began to beat two pieces of metal together — a knife and a gun-barrel, I think they happened to be — keeping up a monotonous tink, tink, tink, and talking to me as he did so. He recited a sort of commination service, somewhat to the following effect : "If you ever make war on me, if you ever steal from me, if you ever wound me, &c., &c., 28 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES may you die!" This is a good opportunity for him in case he may want to get anything from you, so his incantation often contains such threats as, " If you do not give me plenty of guns, may you die! " After this, a similar performance was gone through by my representative, whose business it was to nullify my new brother's subtle demands. Finally the compact was sealed by an exchange of small presents. This custom is not by any means a local one, but is found among nearly all the tribes that in- habit the districts of Central Africa. Stanley submitted to the operation often enough to have reason to complain that his arm became quite sore from the effects of these frequent incisions. Z^" WOODEN SPOONS FEOM THE EQUATOB. IN THE EAPIDS. CHAPTER II A tornado — Extra paddlemen wanted — Lieutenant Deyenyns obliged to proceed by land — Strike of canoe-men — The rapids — A canoe sinks — Desertion of the paddlemen — We surprise a village — A press-gang — Interpretation under difficulties — A portage — Dahia breaks his promise — I camp on an island — Canoe-men anxious to work — Konirah — I learn my destination — Djabbir — M'Bima — The ransom of a condemned wizard — Arrival at N'Yangara. ON the 11th of November, on our way to Djabbir, on the Welle, we were caught in a tornado, and were obliged to stop at the nearest village to avoid being swamped. The first sign of its approach was a strong breeze, accompanied by a rushing sound like nothing else in nature, caused by distant rain falling on the leaves of forest trees. We heard this long before it reached us. At first a mere rustle, it increased gradually in volume of sound, till the heavy rain- fall was upon us with a roar that was almost deafening. A wild wind succeeded the breeze, 32 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES and the river, placid a few moments before, began to run in high waves. Lightning followed, with heavy thunder, louder than any Indian thunder- storms of my experience. The village in which we had taken refuge con- sisted of a few wretched mud huts, through the thatch of which the rain dropped incessantly as through a sieve. Making the best of a bad case, we tried to settle down as comfortably as cir- cumstances would allow, tormented by mosquitos, the dripping of the rain, and smoke from the greenwood fire. The storm cleared off, and early next morn- ing we started in fine weather, arriving at the village of M'pota. Here we found that several extra paddlemen would be necessary to enable us to overcome the difficulties of the rapids higher up, and as it was no easy matter to secure fresh canoe-men, I sent Lieutenant Devenyns with forty men by land to Djabbir, keeping with me four soldiers as interpreters (the reason why /oh?' interpreters were needed will be seen later on) and six soldiers who were on the sick-list. Our troubles now began in real bitter earnest. Having got together, with the aid of the chief, some seventy men to work the four big canoes, I started, laden with my own baggage and the lieutenant's, the two Nordenfeldt guns, and am- munition in about fifty cases. At four o'clock ' '--:^ '^-?i^'' ^fifiiBflHimuHF^y^ ■ " t^^;^H liKll ■'"i-*^ 'i E";'lf'^^- "'.■^4 '-P^:^- /J 1 1 K 1 ^■^BeSl ^.i,...-,^ ,^^-'_J- MMM^p" ipMl ,( ^^H^H^^^^^^^^HHgi^ M^^^ S^E n ^^^^^^^^^^^^D^^BHkT '"jy^wa, ^ ^^B 1h ^^^^^^^l^nffiL '^' f^^SSb ' i^-J^H' ^ wN f' ^m « >■ ^K//KSl-^ 4sS^^HPSHSP^ft9llH^EK..^ii^^S^r ^'IRfiflC' Ih '^ ' 1 ^■'^iSc^'f'IM';- -'-Ji?^ ^ «'■. THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 35 we reached the first rapids, where the canoe-men insisted upon camping for the night, and next morning they one and all refused to start unless they received a present of beads. As this was quite contrary to their agreement, and as I only possessed about two pounds weight of beads, I objected, and after much talk through the medium BANANAS. of my interpreters persuaded the grumblers to move on. Leaving at 7.30 a.m., we passed the first rapid by eleven o'clock. The canoe-men now demanded food, stating that they had no means of buying any. Stopping at an island village on the river, I bought sufficient bananas for every one, but here 36 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES again 'they were dissatisfied— they did not want bananas, ,they wanted beads. Seeing that the whole thing was simply a device to shirk further work, I divided the bananas among the four canoes and placed one soldier in each boat, and by dint of threats we started again to navigate the second rapids. Three of the canoes passed safely through, but the fourth sank, so we were obliged to return, and with great difficulty man- aged to refloat it, ultimately recovering most of its contents. I camped for the night on a small island in mid-stream, so that none of the crew should have an opportunity to bolt, but during the night they found other canoes hidden on the banks, and in the morning I awoke to find myself, my ten soldiers, and four heavily laden canoes without a single paddleman. Happily we found a small village at the upper end of the island, where we succeeded in obtaining a few men. My difficulties were increased by my ignorance of the native languages, and I now found the value of the four interpreters, two of whom were Houssas, one a Mobanghi, and the fourth a Sierra Leone. Now to get at the natives I had to tell the Sierra Leone what' I wanted in pidgin-English, and to make-'him understand it; he then trans- Jated my' meaning into some West Coast dialect -to -^one of the Houssas,' who put "it to the other in', his tongue; this ' onei, in -turn, rendered "what he THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 37 heard into Bangala — not of the very best — to the Mobanghi, who finally told it in Zande to the chief. The possibilities of misconception under this pro- cess are obvious, and I am perfectly certain that my questions very often reached headquarters in MOBANGHI NATIVE. a form quite other than that in which they had been put. On the third day, lightening one of the big canoes, I sent it up the river to the village of Dahia, a brother of the Sultan of Djabbir, to bring back a few more paddlemen, so that I might move on with the three remaining vessels. I was 38 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES obliged to wait a day before they returned with some forty or fifty men, when we started again, and arrived at 1 p.m. just below the rapids, near to where Dahia's village was situated. Here the natives absolutely refused to take the boats over the rapids, declaring that they were far too dangerous. I was obliged to unload all the canoes, and leaving a soldier in charge of the baggage I started for Dahia's village, which was about two miles off, and was fortunate in finding that M. Devenyns had been waiting my arrival for two days. At last I thought my troubles were at an end. Dahia arrived, promising as many canoes and men as I chose to ask for, and bringing plenty of food. He provided also men enough to carry the whole of the guns and other things unloaded from the boats below the rapids into the village where we encamped, and I, relying upon the word of Dahia, awaited the arrival of my canoes and men. In about an hour's time one small canoe arrived, propelled by two men, who promptly disappeared after tying it up to the bank, but in less than a quarter of an hour it had sunk, having sprung a leak. The whole day was spent in negotiations with Dahia for more canoes and men. Finally I managed to get one fair-sized boat and eight men, with no hope of any further help. I was compelled to send one canoe on in advance, with THE SULTAN DJABBIE. THE LAND OF THE I'IGMIEH 41 orders to leave its load at the next post, with a soldier in charge, and to return myself with boat and men to take along a further portion of the baggage. By this means I advanced in four da}-s a distance that under favourable circumstances might easily be covered in one. CONGO CAXOE. On the fourth day I embarked with the balance of the baggage and loads, but did not reach the next post of Bussendi until nine o'clock at night, having been wet through since three o'clock in the afternoon. Here there was nothing left to me but to have recourse to the same tactics, if we 10 42 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES were to reach the succeeding post. Late on this day when I left with the last load, after paddling for hours against a powerful current, I asked how far we had still to pull, and was .met at every inquiry by the reply, "only a short way." We continued thus until eight o'clock at night, when the canoe-men politely informed me that they did not think they could reach the post that night. They suggested that they should go ashore and sleep, leaving me and my two soldiers in the canoe. Here was an hnjKtsse indeed ; it required some nerve to storm the dangerous position, and I faced it firmly, knowing well that I should never see them again if they once got ashore. It was pitch dark, and I had no idea where I was, so, seeing that they intended to do no more work, I was compelled to tie up to a clump of trees on a submerged island, having at least the satisfaction of knowing that my men could not quit the boat, and that they would be extremely uncomfortable during the chilly night. Supperless and cold, we waited for the first glimpse of dawn, when I found them anxious enough to push on, as they were cold and hungry. Continuing our course up the river, we soon arrived at Konirah. Here fortunately I found one of Djabbir's corporals, who was willing and able to do all that I required. Being an Azande he rapidly found means of supplying seven canoes, and eighty THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 45 men to work them. From this point I had no diiliculty, the corporal, who accompanied us to Djabbir, nsin'4' his stick freely on the slightest sign of laziness or disaffection on the part of the paddlemen. We arrived at Djabbir on the 26th at eleven o'clock, having taken twenty-three days to accomplish what is really a nine days' journey, and found M. Devenyns there waiting for me. Owing to arrangements that had been made in the meantime between France and the Congo State, my destination was here changed from Semio to N'Yangara, an alteration which I found later there was no reason to regret, for my original goal was to have been the deserted, swamp- surrounded station of ]\Ieshr-el-Eek, whence pro- bably I should never have returned alive. On arriving at Djabbir I was agreeably surprised to find three Englishmen already comfortably installed — Dr. Small, whom I had left at Leopold- ville, Captain Salusbury, and the ill-fated Sergeant Grahame. For the first time since my arrival in the country I met a really important chief. On entering the mess-room I was formally introduced to a quiet, shrewd-looking native gentlemen in the uniform of a captain of the Force Piiblujue. This was Djabbir, the chief of the Abandjia branch of the great Azande tribe, who, I found, frequently came to take his midday meal with the officers of the station, and appeared quite at ease in European 46 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES surroundings, both at table and elsewhere. He has always jDroved himself a staunch friend to the white man, being far-sighted enough to foresee his eventual domination in Central Africa. At Djabbir I found State Inspector Paul le Marinel, with seven other Europeans, all bound up the river. After a week occupied in drilling our men I moved on with Lieutenant Kops and a hundred men, this time overland, making for N'Yangara. Marching along the northern bank of the AVelle through forest and occasional open plains, wo arrived on the 26th of December at the post of M'Bima. Here we crossed to the southern side, and after a stay of two days we followed along this bank as far as the native post of Ciassi. At a small Azande settlement on the road some of my men came to tell me that the chief of the village was going to kill one of his men for witchcraft. The unfortunate fellow, a small and ugly specimen of his race, had, it appears, been guilty of an amiable indiscretion with one of the chief's wives. After some conversation with the chief I ransomed the prisoner at the price of two yards of white cloth, on the condition that I might take him away with me. Needless to say this victim of circumstances was only too glad to fall in with my terms ; and he remained with me for some fifteen months in the capacity of a servant, eventually returning to his village at his own request. <1 o THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 49 Crossing the river once more at Giassi, we followed the northern bank as far as the post of Bomokandi, so called from its being the point of junction of the Bomo- kandi and Welle rivers. After one day's march further we again crossed the river for the last time to the south side, reaching the post of Amadis on the 19 th of January, and taking again to canoes arrived at N'Yangara on the 26th of the month. During the whole of this march from Djabbir to Amadas, about '250 miles, I sa^\• not a single elephant, although nearly every morning, when starting, we came across innumer- able traces of them. ^^•OMAX CAEltYING MANIOC. 11 CHAPTEE III A punitive expedition — A deserted country — The column surprised — The Azande charge — Eout of the Sierra Leone — We fall back to Dongu — I am sent to establish a new post — I am given charge of the district of the Upper Welle — Its aspect — Altitude — Navigation — Climate — Native names for the months— Tribal divisions — The Azande — Their origin a mystery — Their country — Hunters — Pottery — Status of the women among them — War-dress of the chiefs — Morality — The warriors — Their weapons — Beer — Their methods of execution '— Superstition — Not nomadic, but absorbing — Their village — Type of face — Possible Semitic origin — The chiefs — Crafts, military science, primitive jurisprudence and trial by ordeal — The oracle of Befige. AT N'Yangara I found the comuiissioner of the district making his final preparations before marching against the Azande chiefs, in the north. On the 2nd of February a column of 670 rifles, officered by ten white men, the whole under command of the coninaissioner, set out from N'Yangara in a' north-easterly direction. THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 51 After nine days' march through a country practically uninhabited — for it had been entirely deserted by the people — on the morning of the 11th of February our three columns were suddenly confronted by the Azande, and a square, rapidly formed, was attacked on both flanks, while against its front face three lines of yelling spearmen WOMEN CAERYING BICE AFTEE THE HARVEST. charged across the open ground. The Sierra Leone companies broke and fled, and the Azande rushed through the square, inflicting a loss of some sixty killed, including one white man, and wounding about the same number. The fugitives had fortunately been stopped by the company of Mobanghi soldiers at the rear face 52 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES of the square, who thus averted complete and absolute disaster. As it was impossible to carry out our original plan, owing to the dejected and disorganised state of the three Sierra Leone com- panies, and the heavy loss sustained by the Houssa company of thirty-six killed and more than that HEOBANGfll NATIVE. number wounded, out of a total of a 103, the ex- pedition fell back to the fortified station at Dongu, situated at the junction of the Dongu and Kibali rivers, where we arrived on the 24th of February. On the 28th, with two hundred men and Lieut. Niclot, I was sent to establish a new post in the territory of the Abaugba chief Kabasidu, six THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES .53 hours south-west of the Dongu, the main object to be gained being to supply the garrison at that place, amounting in all to some 1,200 souls, with food and grain collected from the Mangbettou country. This post was eventually handed over by me, at the latter end of August, to Lieut. Swinhufvud, a Swedish officer in the service of the State, when I was called upon to take command of the Makua district, consisting of the posts N'Yan- gara, Surnanga, Amadis on the Welle, Pokko on the Bomokandi river, and the whole country south to the Eubi and the Nepoko rivers. Over this tract I constantly journeyed throughout its length and breadth, visiting every chief of importance, and securing his adhesion to the Grovernment of the State. Thus I had ample opportunity to study the habits, customs, and rites of these peoples, the ]\Iangbettou, and their kindred tribes. The district with which I am chiefly concerned is that of the Upper Welle, which extends from twenty-three degrees in the west, runs eastward to the Nile at the most northerly point of the Congo Free State, and has for its northern boundary the M'Bomu, stretching five degrees north. The southern boundary, which cannot be accurately defined, is the watershed between the Aruwimi and the Welle. The country is irrigated by the Eiver Welle, together with the tributaries Bomokandi, M'Bima, 54 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES Werre, and some lesser affluents. To the north of the Welle, in its western portion, the land is covered to a great extent with thick forest ; the central and easterly parts consist of large open grass plains, varied by undulating, rocky ground, sparsely covered with scrub bush. South of the river the country presents an entirely different WITCH PEOCESSION : GIELS DECOEATED WITH BEADS. aspect, being dotted over with numerous villages, which are surrounded by large and thriving plan- tations of maize, banana, cassava, millet, sesame, and maroo. On the northern bank the land is almost worthless, but below this, where the agri- cultural tribes are settled, the country is much richer and better, and soil is in the highest degree fitted for agriculture. So fertile is the land, and THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 55 in such abundance does it yield food, that the natives need work but two months in every twelve. There is no " agricultural depression " here. As no free salt is to be found in these regions, this most necessary condiment has to be produced artificially, and is extracted by all the tribes in this neighbourhood from papyrus plants. The altitude of the district of the Upper Welle, at twenty-eight and a half degrees east and three and a half degrees north, is 2,500 feet above the sea, descending in its western portion at twenty- four degrees east and four degrees north, to 1,400 feet. The river is navigable almost throughout its entire course. There are a few rapids, where portage of goods is necessary, but the boats them- selves can travel the whole distance without difficulty. The rainy season begins about the middle of July and lasts till about the middle of December. It does not rain continuously for two or three days together, but generally in the afternoons and at night. The shorter rainy season is from about the 16th of February to the 15th of March. During the other months of the year, though the climate is warm, the temperature rarely exceeds 92 degrees Fahrenheit. The nights are always cool and fresh, accom- panied by heavy dews, but there is much malaria in the country, owing to the large quantity of water and marshy tracts. 56 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES By some of the tribesmen names are given to the months in keeping with what is done in them. Thus one is named as that in which they sow maroo, the chief ingredient used in brewing native beer ; another as the season when maroo must be cut. Following this comes the "bad-water" month, when the risk of fever is greatest ; then elephant month, when they catch elephants b}' AZANDE FETICHE H. burning the grass ; and the white-ant month, during which white ants are collected, and con- sidered a great delicacy ; and a second maroo month, when a second crop is sown. The month next to this has no distinctive name, and is succeeded by the second maroo harvest month ; the hungry, or water-month, \\'hen provisions are scarce ; the second ant-gathering month ; a later sowing month ; and, finalh', another with no THE LAND OP THE PIGMIES 57 particular title. This very simple method is a decided improvement on the scheme set forth in exquisite elegiacs by Ovid in his "Fasti." Nothing supernatural is suggested, no names of deities are introduced, but each month is directly connected with some current and natural event. AZANDB NATIVE. So far as I could gather by inquiry and observation, the characteristics of each tribe are constant and continuous. At their head in point of interest and superiority stand the Azande, who, according to tradition, came down from the north. Being now settled north of the AYelle, they are gradually pushing their way southward to the 12 58 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES more fertile land across the river and toward the north bank of the Congo ; indeed, had not the white man been present to check their advance, it is reasonable to suppose that by this time they would have completely absorbed the various other tribes established south of the Welle. They have no records of their origin, and possess no traditional history save a mere genealogy of the last seven generations of the ruling chief's family. In this respect they altogether differ from all Aryan nations, who invariably preserve traditions of race and origin. The Azande district stretches from twenty- three degrees to thirty degrees west, and from six degrees north to three degrees south ; its people are scattered over the whole country, and are subdivided into the Abandjia in the west, the Avongura in the centre, and the Makraka in the east. They are a fighting tribe, using military formations in war, and the rule of their chiefs is absolutely despotic. Mighty hunters too, most of their time is spent during peace in pursuit of the elephant and antelope, which abound in the bush and plains of their land. As a rule the women do all house- work and cultivate the fields, as in other tribes, but have no influence in political or outside matters, as have the Mangbettou women. The whole race are confirmed cannibals, although the AZANDB KBNIBA. THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 61 Azande south of the Welle alone allow ^^'omeii and children to eat human flesh, and the men eat only those whom they have slain in battle. The Azande make fairly good pottery of different shapes, including the three-necked jar, similar to those of Italian workmanship. They are very fond of their women, neither buying nor selling them. Coupled with this good quality comes their love of music, for these people are very musical, playing with great skill a kind of guitar and the Keniba, a sort of xylophone, made of pieces of wood that vary in length and shape, mounted on gourds of different sizes, and struck by hammers tipped with rubber. The Azande use tobacco, but more sparingly than other tribes. Their pipes are made of wood, with a bowl of clay. Corn and cassava are their principal food ; potatoes too are planted, but are eaten only when they are pressed by hunger. They are extremely fond of the ground-nut, which they grow in large quantities. In hunting they use dogs to drive the game into nets prepared and spread. These dogs are of a special breed, some- thing in the style of a boarhound, only upon a very reduced scale. When Azande chiefs go to war they dress themselves in the most ragged clothes they can find. Their old caps have holes in them, their shields are worn and battered, and their knives are 62 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES rusty and chipped. To look at them you would imagine them to be the poorest of the poor. At night they lie down among their followers without any covering, and will not even have a bed to rest upon, so that they may not be recognised by the enemy. Indeed, even among his own people in times of peace the big Azande chief is, as a rule, quite quietly and simply dressed, much more so than the people around him, and he wears no ornaments. A much higher standard of morality is found among these natives than in other tribes, and they show real affection and respect for women, who as a rule have their quarters in a separate village in the bush, some two hundred yards from the hut of the chief, where they are practically inaccessible to the white man. One of their principal pleasures is to dance, moving round and round in a circle, shuflfling their feet, and swaying their heads and hands in time to the beat of a war-drum. Very cunning as traders, they will haggle over a bargain for a long time, and when it is struck at last they will still hold out importunately for presents, without the smallest sense of shame. The men are of medium height, well made, and darkish red in colour. They have no distinctive tattoo mark, except among the "Western branch of the Azande, who have adopted the lateral tattoo 9H raHJIH ^^^K i&^^^B^^hI %fl mP^^^^ ^1 lilHiHHLV''H^B .; ■;. 1 ^l^^H^w K J HI O THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES G.-i mark of the race they have conquered, the Mobanghi. The hair and beard are worn in long thin plaits, and over the head they very often throw a loose net made of string, which falls down on the nape of the neck. They dress in bark AZANDK WEAPON H. cloth, pressed and beaten out, like the Mang- bettou, and wear the same small circular cap of woven grass. They smear their bodies with oil and the powdered dust of the camwood-tree, and in war-time blacken their foreheads and file their 13 66 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES front teeth to points, as a distinguishing mark, probably another sign of Totemism, or a "throw- back " to primitive warfare. The national Azande weapons are the lance and shield, and among the Western Azande the heavy broad-bladed stabbing lance, of which each warrior carries one. Among the Central and Eastern people the light-throwing spear is the usual weapon, of which each man carries four, five, or six. The Western folk carry a small shield of wicker-work with an iron boss and spike ; those of the Centre and East carry a large oval shield pi similar make. It is odd to discover our national beverage — beer — in such parts, but we find these people making beer from maize. Bitter and thick, but very sustaining, it is brewed by fermenting the grain. The tribe likes it, and, in default of the products of Bass, AUsopp, and Pilsener, I am bound to say so did I, and so did my men, another proof of the oft-noted cosmopolitan character of beer. The Arabs have taught them how to weave a coarse, white cloth, which \\'ears well. The Azande generally kill condemned criminals with the lance. I remember once an Azande chief caught one of his wives attempting to run away with another man. They were both taken and brought back, and next morninij', before 'o an assembly of the people summoned to witness the ceremony they were tied to trees. The chief THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES 67 himself, after haranguing the assembled multitude, at a distance of fifty yards from the prisoners, began to dance, stopping every now and then to throw a lance at either the woman or the man. This he continued to do, approaching nearer and nearer, until both culprits had been transfixed by two or three lances. A chief would not hesitate to mutilate his own son for such an outrage, inflicting the usual penalty by cutting off both hands at the wrists. Not nomadic, but always pushing southward, and essentially a warlike race, the Azande devote themselves in time of peace to hunting, taking little trouble about their dwellings or plantations. Their huts are usually circular in form, and often so low roofed that an upright position in them is impossible. These are not grouped together, as is customary with other tribes of this district, but the construction of their villages is quite unique. On a point in a winding path in the bush may be seen perhaps two or three huts close together ; then, higher up, and most probably round a corner, or a bend in the path, two or three more. Higher up still will be found the headquarters of the chief, containing a few more huts, and beyond this still more are scattered at irregular intervals. These, on each side of the village, serve as out- posts, to prevent a possibility of surprise by a hostile force. In this matter the primitive 68 THE LAND OF THE PIGMIES instincts of defence and fortification are clearly indicated and enforced. The type of face seen among the Azande is not that of the negro at all. Even from a European point of view one may find men and women who would pass as very good-looking, for they are Hght *-mi. -.«*-, •■f<-«Jt^-Ji^ti