Mm 
 
 ^ 
 
 djantell Hniuerstty ffiibranj 
 
 Ultfara, Nem $}ork 
 
 BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE 
 
 SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 HENRY W. SAGE 
 
 !89l 
 
 
_ 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 fy 1 g 3» 
 
 '»' 
 
 v 2 I 
 
 n 
 
 APR 171945 
 
 Date Due . 
 
 
 a ps 
 
 > 0V1 -1945 
 
 
 
 n 
 
 • 
 
 Cornell University Library 
 DA 447.E92A3 1908 
 
 of John Evelyn. 
 
 3 1924 027 989 122 
 
 olin 
 
\*>y 
 
 <\ 
 
 Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924027989122 
 
THE DIARY 
 
 OF 
 
 JOHN EVELYN 
 
 (1620 TO 1706) 
 
MACMILLAN AND CO., Limited 
 
 LONDON • BOMBAY • CALCUTTA 
 MELBOURNE 
 
 THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 
 
 NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO 
 ATLANTA • SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd. 
 
 TORONTO 
 
Sty <SWre Ebitian 
 
 THE DIARY 
 
 OF 
 
 JOHN EVELYN 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION & NOTES 
 
 BY 
 
 AUSTIN DOBSON 
 
 HON. LL.D. EDIN. 
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., LIMITED 
 ST. MARTIN'S STREET, LONDON 
 
 i 9 o8 umivi *J>T k ' 
 
[*% The "supplementary notes" between square brackets in the three- 
 volume edition of igo6, and in this volume, are not to be found in any other 
 reprint of Evelyn s text.~\ 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The record known popularly as Evelyn's Diary was first printed in 1 8 1 8 by 
 Colburn as the major part of two quarto volumes with the following title, 
 Memoirs, illustrative of the Life and Writings of fohn Evelyn, Esq., E.R.S., 
 Author of the " Sylva," etc. etc. Comprising his Diary, froiii the Year 1641 
 to 1705-6, and a Selection of his familiar Letters. To which is added the 
 private Correspondence between King Charles I. and his Secretary of State, 
 Sir Edward Nicholas, etc. It was edited by the antiquary, William Bray 
 (co-author with Owen Manning of the History of Surrey), from the original 
 MS. at Wotton, then in the possession of Lady Evelyn, widow of the 
 Diarist's great-great-grandson, Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. Lady Evelyn 
 died on the 12th November, 181 7, when the last sheets were in the hands 
 of the printer ; and the dedication, which Bray had intended for her, was 
 then transferred to her devisee, John Evelyn, a descendant of Sylva 
 Evelyn's grandfather. According to William Upcott, Assistant- Librarian 
 of the London Institution, who catalogued the Wotton books, Lady Evelyn, 
 although she freely lent the Diary from time to time to her particular 
 friends, did not regard it as of sufficient importance for publication ; and, 
 except for an accident, it might have been cut up for dress patterns; or 
 served to light fires. 1 This opportune "accident" was its exhibition in 
 18 14 to Upcott; and Lady Evelyn subsequently, "after much solicitation 
 from many persons," consented to its being printed under the auspices of 
 Bray, who, in his " Preface," renders special thanks to Upcott " for the great 
 and material assistance received from him" . , "besides his attention to 
 the superintendence of the press." Why Upcott, to whom the MS. was 
 
 1 Preface to Frederick Strong's Catalogue, quoted in Dews' Deptford, 2nd edition, 
 
 1884, p. 211. 
 
 V 
 
vl THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 communicated without reserve by Lady Evelyn, and who edited Evelyn's 
 Miscellaiieous Writings in 1825, did not also edit the Diaty, does not 
 appear ; but — as we shall see — it continued to engage his attention even 
 after Bray's death in 1832. 
 
 The first edition of Evelyn's Memoirs was well received, — Southey, in 
 particular, vouchsafing to it a long and sympathetic notice in the Quarterly 
 for April, 1818. In 18 19 appeared a second quarto edition. Eight years 
 later, in 1827, this was followed by a five-volume octavo edition, which has 
 often been reprinted, notably in 1879, by Messrs. Bickers and Bush, with a 
 careful life of Evelyn by Mr. Henry B. Wheatley, F.S.A. 1 In Messrs. 
 Bickers and Bush's "Preface" it is expressly stated that, after several 
 applications to the owner of the MS., Mr. W. J. Evelyn of Wotton, for 
 permission to consult it, that gentleman eventually replied that " Colburn's 
 third edition of the Diary was very correctly printed from the MS.," and 
 might "be relied on as giving an accurate text." 
 
 Notwithstanding this statement, there was, in 1879, actually in the 
 market an edition of the Diary^ based upon Bray, which claimed to be 
 fuller than that issued in 1827. In 1850-52, John Forster, the biographer 
 of Goldsmith, had put forth a fresh issue of Bray, including various supple- 
 mentary passages, which, owing to the first sheets of the edition of 1827 
 having been struck off without Upcott's revision, had not been included in 
 that text. Forster further explained that Upcott's interest in his task had 
 continued unabated until his death in 1845, an d tnat tne latest literary 
 labour upon which he had been occupied had been the revision and prepara- 
 tion of the version which Forster subsequently edited in 1850. He lived 
 (said Forster) to complete, for this purpose, "a fresh and careful comparison 
 of the edition printed in octavo in 1827 (which he had himself, with the 
 exception of the earliest sheets of the first volume, superintended for the 
 press) with the original manuscript ; by which many material omissions in 
 the earlier quartos were supplied, and other not unimportant corrections 
 made." Forster's edition was reissued in 1854, and again in 1857. It was 
 then added to " Bohn's Libraries," now published by Messrs. George Bell 
 and Sons. In the " Preface " to the issue of 1857, Forster writes : "The 
 volumes containing the Diary have since [i.e. since the edition of 1850] 
 undergone still more careful revision, and the text, as now presented, is 
 throughout in a more perfect state." 
 
 It would be going too far to claim the additions of Upcott as of signal 
 
 1 And again, with a new Preface, in 1906. 
 
PREFACE Vll 
 
 importance, — many of them, indeed, by Forster's own admission, consist of 
 "trifling personal details," 1 and they are practically confined to the earlier 
 portion of the first volume. 2 But Forster's text has long enjoyed a deserved 
 reputation; it was declared by the Quarterly Review \ as late as 1896, to 
 "leave little to be desired" ; and being demonstrably the fullest, it has been 
 adopted in the present case. "In compliance with a wish very generally 
 expressed," its spelling was modernized ; and as it is impracticable, without 
 access to Upcott's original sources, to archaize his additions, and as, more- 
 over, Evelyn's very uncertain method — which can scarcely be termed 
 orthography — has no philological value, Forster's text has been followed in 
 this respect also. Forster, however, can scarcely be said to have carried 
 out his modernizing as thoroughly as might have been expected. He made 
 little or no attempt to rectify Evelyn's capricious use of foreign words ; and 
 he allowed such expressions as "Jardine Royale" and "Bonnes Hommes " 
 to remain uncorrected. Nor did he observe any consistent practice with 
 respect to names of places. He turns "Braineford" into " Brentford, " 
 " Bruxelles " into "Brussels," " Midelbrogh " into " Middleburgh " — as he 
 could scarcely fail to do ; but he left many other names as Evelyn had left 
 them, or as Bray or Upcott had mistranscribed them. Thus " Stola 
 Tybertina " is allowed to stand for " Isola Tiberina," " Scargalasino " for 
 " Scarica 1' Asino," " St. Saforin" for " St. Symphorien-de-Lay," " Palestina " 
 for " Pelestrina," "Mount Sampion" for "Mount Simplon " ; while "St. 
 Geminiano " continues to masquerade as " St. Jacomo " without any note of 
 explanation. Nor is he always fortunate in the names of persons, although 
 this, of course, admits of greater latitude both of taste and fancy. He 
 leaves the martyr " Hewit " disguised as " Hewer" ; and " Pearson " (of the 
 Creed) as " Pierson." These are only some out of several similar cases.; 
 and it is not by any means contended that all have been discovered. 3 A 
 few, it must be frankly confessed, have baffled inquiry. But — to echo 
 
 1 P. 42. 
 
 2 This is confirmed by the fact that two-thirds of the present edition, though set 
 up from Forster's text, have been read against vols. ii. and iii. of Bray's edition of 1827, 
 without the discovery of any material differences except the spelling. 
 
 3 One or two of the unconscious modernizations are scarcely improvements. ' ' Air- 
 park " for "hare-park" would have pleased Polonius. " Rode" for " rowed," especially 
 at Venice—" the only city in Europe where," as Thackeray said of G. P. R. James, "the 
 famous ' Two Cavaliers ' cannot by any possibility be seen riding together "—is unhappy. 
 " Calais," again, for " Cales " (Cadiz) is odd. But these are lapses of vigilance to which 
 the best of us are liable, — and they are rare. 
 
V1 *l THE DIA KY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Forster's words with a cautionary modification — it may, I trust, be fairly 
 contended that the text is now in a more accurate state. 
 
 It is noted by Forster, and should be repeated, that Evelyn's Diary 
 "does not, in all respects, strictly fulfil what the term implies." It was not, 
 like that of Pepys, composed from day to day ; but must often have been 
 "written up" long after the incidents recorded, and sometimes when the 
 writer's memory betrayed him, or when he inserted fresh information under 
 a wrong heading. He frequently refers to persons by titles they only bore 
 at a period subsequent to the date of entry. Once, if Bray is correct, he 
 seems to speak of his elder brother's second wife before the first was dead. 
 Now and then, the difference between O.S. and N.S. throws some light 
 upon the matter. But it does not explain why he professes to have 
 witnessed Oliver Cromwell's funeral on the 22nd October when it took place 
 on the 23rd November. 1 At other times he groups a number of events in 
 one entry, an arrangement which brings the battle of Edgehill under the 
 3rd of October, when it really was fought on the 23rd. 2 Forster's solution 
 of these things is probably correct. He supposes the Diary to have " been 
 copied by the writer from memoranda made at the time of the occurrences 
 noted in it," and that it "received occasional alterations and additions in the 
 -course of transcription." This must be held to account for "discrepancies 
 otherwise not easily reconciled," and also " for differing descriptions of the 
 same objects and occurrences which have occasionally been found in the 
 MS. thus compiled." It should also be added that (as Mr. Forster does 
 not seem to have been aware) Evelyn began, but did not complete, an 
 amplified transcription of the whole, 3 from which some of Upcott's additions 
 were no doubt derived. The effect of all this is to deprive the record of its 
 character as a " Kalendarium " or " Diary," and to bring it rather into the 
 category of " Memoirs," the title which Bray gave to the general collection 
 of documents he issued in 18 18, and which Evelyn, in one place, uses 
 
 himself. 4 
 
 To each of their editions Messrs. Bray and Forster appended notes. Those 
 of Bray, who was assisted by the well-known collector, James Bindley of the 
 Stamp Office, are in many respects valuable, in some respects authoritative, 
 especially on local matters. But they are now eighty years old, while not a few 
 of them, doubtless from the writer's want of access to sources of information 
 
 1 Pp. 199 and 200. 2 P- 2 5- 
 
 3 This is still at Wotton. It extends from the beginning of the Diary to October, 1644. 
 
 1 P. 294. 
 
PREFACE ix 
 
 now open to every one, were never very pertinent. Forster, in 1850, rather 
 remodelled Bray than revised him, adding at the end of the volumes a 
 number of fresh annotations of his own, which, from his familiarity with the 
 period (was he not the author of the Lives of the Statesmen of the Common- 
 wealth !) are naturally not to be neglected. But half a century again has 
 passed away since they were penned, and a large amount of literature has 
 grown up around what was once one of their writer's special subjects. In 
 his issue of 1857, Forster incorporated his notes with Bray's without 
 distinction. Of the body of comment thus created, I have freely availed 
 myself, abridging, expanding, amending, or suppressing, as circumstances 
 seemed to require. In addition, I have prepared a large number of supple- 
 mentary notes, illustrative and explanatory, which are uniformly placed 
 between square brackets thus ]. Although I have carefully examined, 
 and in some cases recast, the existing notes, I have not felt justified in 
 claiming, even in an altered form, what I have not originated ; and I have 
 only in a few instances bracketed such inserted passages as, from their very 
 nature, are either obviously modern or readily detachable from the context. 1 
 As to the notes which appear for the first time in this edition, I leave them 
 to their fate. To some people something will always be superfluous : to 
 others something will always be lacking. But I hope fresh readers — and 
 fresh editors — of Evelyn may, in the present instance, at least be willing to 
 allow that a definite attempt has been made to throw light upon whatever in 
 his pages an invida cetas has laboured to obscure. 
 
 My thanks are due, and are hereby gratefully tendered, to Sir Archibald 
 Geikie, F.R.S., Secretary to the Royal Society ; Mr. Edmund Gosse ; the 
 Rev. William Hunt, President of the Royal Historical Society ; Mr. Sidney 
 T. Irwin of Clifton College ; Mr. P. Chalmers Mitchell, F.R.S., Secretary 
 to the Zoological Society ; and Mr. Henry R. Tedder, the Secretary and 
 Librarian of the Athenaeum Club — for kind information on divers matters of 
 
 detail. 
 
 AUSTIN DOBSON. 
 
 75 Eaton Rise, Ealing, W., 
 June, 1906. 
 
 1 Occasionally, where the note expresses a personal opinion, or makes a statement 
 which cannot be verified, I have given it upon the authority of its author. 
 
x THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 NOTE TO PRESENT REPRINT 
 
 With the exception of some minor verbal alterations, and the omission of 
 
 two paragraphs no longer relevant, the foregoing reproduces the " Preface *' 
 
 to the three-volume edition of Evelyn's Diary issued in 1906. To the present 
 
 " Globe " reprint, several new notes have been added ; and my thanks are 
 
 due to Mr. George Saintsbury, the Rev. William Hunt, Mr. Douglas W. 
 
 Freshfield, and Mr. W. Robinson of High Wycombe, for communications 
 
 which have enabled me to correct some unsuspected errors. 
 
 A. D. 
 
 Ealing, October, 1907. 
 
INTRODUCTION 
 
 On John Evelyn's tomb in Wotton Church it is recorded that he lived in " an 
 age of extraordinary Events and Revolutions." To be the captain of one's 
 soul in such conditions is no easy matter ; and it is greatly to Evelyn's credit 
 that he was able to steer a steady course. Though a staunch Church-of- 
 England man, he succeeded, as an equally staunch royalist, in deserving the 
 goodwill of two monarchs, of whom one was a secret, the other an open 
 Roman Catholic ; and he retained the respect of both without any surrender 
 of principle. He is an excellent example of the English Country Gentleman 
 of the better sort, proud of his position, but recognising its responsibilities ; 
 liberally educated ; conveniently learned ; a virtuoso with a turn for useful 
 knowledge, and a genuine enthusiast for anything tending to the improvement, 
 of his race or country. In an epoch of plotting and place-hunting, he neither 
 place-hunted nor plotted. For advancement or reward he cared but little, 
 being content to do his duty — often at his own charges — as a good citizen and 
 a philanthropist. 1 'Pious, tolerant, open-minded, prudent, honourable — he 
 belongs to the roll of those of whom our land, even in its darkest days, has 
 always had reason to be proud. 
 
 I 
 
 Evelyn's Memoirs? unlike the more expansive, though, in another sense, 
 more restricted, Diary of his contemporary Pepys, extend over so many years 
 that they practically cover his lifetime, and while chronicling current events, 
 recount his own history. In the present " Introduction " it is therefore only 
 necessary to dwell minutely upon those phases of his biography which, for 
 one reason or another, he has neglected or passed by in his records. He was 
 born, he tells us, on the 31st October, 1620, at the family seat of Wotton 
 
 1 Like his father, he was "a studious decliner of honours and titles." Knighthood — 
 he tells us as early as September, 1649 — was a dignity he had often refused (p. 151), as he 
 did the Bath afterwards (p. 210). Nor was he keen for office. Once, indeed, he seems to 
 have made some faltering attempt to ' ' serve his Majesty "as " Inspector of Forest Trees, " a 
 little post of barely .£300, for which, as the author of Sylva, he was peculiarly qualified. 
 But the appointment, as usual, was given by preference to one " who had seldom been out 
 of the smoke of London" (Letter to the Countess of Sunderland, 4th August, 1690). 
 He was also promised the reversion of the Latin Secretaryship — " a place of more honour 
 and dignity than profit" (p. 269). 2 See Preface, p. viii. 
 
 xi 
 
xi i THE DIA RY OF JOHN £ VEL YN 
 
 House, near Dorking in Surrey, being the fourth child and second son of 
 Richard Evelyn and his wife Eleanor, only daughter of John Standsfield of 
 Lewes in Sussex. His father was the fourth son of George Evelyn of Long 
 Ditton, Godstone, and Wotton, all of which estates he — by what Andrew 
 Marvell calls " good husbandry in petre " l — had acquired from time to time, 
 and settled upon his sons. Thomas, the eldest, went to Long Ditton ; the 
 second, John, took up his residence at Godstone ; while to another, Richard, 
 fell Wotton. 2 At Wotton, a spot having "rising grounds, meadows, woods, 
 and water in abundance," John Evelyn passed his childhood, receiving, when 
 four years of age, the rudiments of his education from one Frier, in a room 
 which formerly existed over the now modernized porch of the little Early 
 English *Church of St. John the Evangelist- 3 At five he was sent to his 
 grandfather Standsfield at Lewes ; and eventually attended the free school at 
 Southover, a suburb of that town. At one time there seems to have been 
 some intention of sending him to Eton ; but his imagination had been excited 
 by reports of the severe discipline commemorated of old by Tusser, 4 and he 
 remained at Southover. It is characteristic of a visit which he paid about 
 this time to the ancient seat of the Carews at Beddington, that he " was much 
 delighted with the gardens and curiosities." 5 These were things in which — as 
 we shall see — his interest never abated. 
 
 When he was fifteen, he lost his mother, with whom, owing to his long 
 absences from home, his intercourse can have been but broken. Her death, 
 on the 29th September, 1635, was hastened by that of his eldest sister, 
 Elizabeth, who had married unhappily and died in childbirth. Evelyn 
 describes his mother quaintly as " of proper personage ; of a brown com- 
 plexion ; her eyes and hair of a lovely black ; of constitution more inclined 
 to a religious melancholy, or pious sadness ; of a rare memory, and most 
 exemplary life ; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the most 
 conspicuous in her country ; which rendered her loss much deplored, both by 
 those who knew, and such as only heard of her." In February, i6$y, while 
 still at Lewes, he was "especially admitted" (with his younger brother 
 Richard) into the Middle Temple. He quitted school in the following April ; 
 and in May entered Balliol College, Oxford, as a Fellow-Commoner, 
 matriculating on the 29th. His tutor was George Bradshaw (nomen invisum I 
 — writes the diarist with a shudder), 7 who afterwards became Master ; but at 
 this period seems to have been too much taken up with harassing the 
 constituted authorities in the interests of the Parliamentary Visitors, to pay 
 sufficient attention to his pupil. 8 Beyond the facts that Evelyn made 
 acquaintance with a Greek graduate, Nathaniel Conopios, notable as one of 
 the earliest drinkers of coffee in England, and that he presented some books 
 
 1 He was a manufacturer of gunpowder. 
 
 2 It will save trouble to add here that each of these three families had, in the future, 
 the title of baronet conferred upon them, viz. at Godstone in 1660 ; at Long Ditton, 1683 ; 
 and at Wotton, 171 3. 
 
 3 P. 3. 4 From Paul's I went, to Eton sent, 
 
 To learn straightways the Latin phrase, 
 Where fifty-three stripes given to me 
 At once I had. 
 5 P. 4. 6 P. 2. 
 
 7 He was the son of the Rector of Ockham ; but may have been related to the regicide, 
 John Bradshaw. 8 P. 6. 
 
INTRODUCTION Xlll 
 
 to the college library, we hear little of his academic doings. He appears, 
 however, to have assiduously attended the popular riding Academy of 
 William Stokes ; * made some progress in the elements of music and 
 " the mathematics," 2 and secured a congenial " guide, philosopher, and friend " 
 in James Thicknesse, or Thickens, afterwards his travelling companion in the 
 Grand Tour. He was joined at Oxford in January, 1640, by his younger 
 brother, Richard. Not very long after, they both went into residence at the 
 Middle Temple, occupying "a very handsome apartment" (in place of an 
 earlier lodging in Essex Court) "just over against the Hall-court" 3 But for 
 the "impolished study" of the law, — 
 
 That codeless myriad of precedent, 
 That wilderness of single instances, — 
 
 Evelyn had no liking, and he engaged upon it mainly by his father's desire. 
 
 At the close of 1640, his father died. His brother George, who had 
 recently married a Leicestershire heiress, 4 duly succeeded to the Wotton 
 patrimony ; and for his juniors, the world was all before them. It was not a 
 particularly inviting world. Especially was it uninviting to a youth bereft of 
 his natural counsellors ; and — as Evelyn modestly describes himself — " of a 
 raw; vain, uncertain, and very unwary inclination." 6 Signs of growing 
 popular discontent were everywhere observable ; and among Evelyn's earliest 
 experiences were the trial of Strafford, and the subsequent severance from its 
 shoulders of "the wisest head in England." 6 Even to this unlessoned 
 spectator (he was but twenty), it was abundantly plain that " the medal was 
 reversing," and the national " calamities but yet in their infancy." 7 He 
 accordingly resolved that, for the present, his best course would be to 
 withdraw himself for a season " from this ill face of things at home." 8 His 
 decision was discreet rather than heroic ; but it was one which is more easy to 
 cavil at than condemn. 9 *■ 
 
 In the ensuing July, having renewed his oath of allegiance at the Custom- 
 House, he started for Holland, in company with a gentleman of Surrey called 
 Caryll. They reached Flushing on the 22nd, and made their way towards 
 Gennep, a stronghold then held by the Spaniards against the French and 
 Dutch. As ill luck would have it, by the time they reached their destination, 
 the place had already been reduced. But while it was being re-fortified by its 
 captors, there was still opportunity for doing volunteer duty in a company of 
 Goring's regiment ; and for a few days the travellers sedulously " trailed the 
 puissant pike," and took their turns as sentries upon a horn-work. A brief 
 experience of camp life, however, coupled with the exacting demands made 
 upon him as " a young drinker," seems to have satisfied Evelyn's military 
 aspirations ; and bidding farewell to the " leaguer and camarades? he 
 
 1 P. 7- 
 
 2 He must also have been — like Fielding — "early master of the Latin classics." 
 
 To an exact knowledge of Greek he made no pretence (Letter to Wren, 4th April, 1665). 
 
 3 p. 8. 4 P. 8. 5 P. 9. 
 
 6 p. 9 . 7 p. io . 8 p Ia 
 
 9 What drove Evelyn away, brought Milton back. Three years earlier, Milton, being 
 abroad, " considered it dishonourable to be enjoying myself at my ease in foreign lands, 
 while my countrymen were striking a blow for freedom " (Pattison's Milton, 1879, P- 3°)- 
 But the points of view were different, and the men. 
 
XI V THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 embarked on the Waal in August for Rotterdam. He visited Delft (where he 
 duly surveyed the tomb of William the Silent), the Hague (where the 
 widowed Queen of Bohemia was then keeping Court), Haarlem, Leyden, 
 Antwerp, and so forth, delighting in the " Dutch drolleries " of kernicsse and 
 fair, inspecting churches, convents, museums, palaces, and gardens, and 
 buying books, prints, and pictures. From Antwerp he passed to Brussels, 
 whence he journeyed to Ghent to meet a great Surrey magnate and 
 neighbour, Thomas Howard, Lord Arundel, who, as Earl Marshal of England, 
 had recently escorted the ill-starred Marie de Medicis to the Continent on 
 her way to Cologne. 1 In Arundel's train Evelyn ultimately returned home, 
 reaching his lodgings in the Temple on the 14th October, 1641. 2 
 
 By this time he was one-and-twenty, and the civil war had begun in earnest. 
 For the next few months he alternated between Wotton and London, 
 " studying a little, but dancing and fooling more." 3 Then he was all but 
 engulfed in the national struggle. In November he set out to join the royal 
 forces. But the same fate overtook him which he had suffered at Gennep. 
 He arrived when the battle of Brentford was over ; and the King, in spite of 
 his success, was about to retire upon Oxford. The not-wholly-explicit sequel 
 must be given in his own words. " I came in with my horse and arms just at 
 the retreat, but was not permitted 4 to stay longer than the 15th [the battle 
 had taken place on the 12th] by reason of the army marching to Gloucester 
 [Oxford ?] ; which would have left both me and my brothers exposed to 
 ruin, without any advantage to his Majesty." 6 He accordingly rode back to 
 Wotton, where, " resolving to possess himself in some quiet, if it might be," 6 
 he devoted his energies, with his elder brother's permission, to building a 
 study, digging a fish-pond, contriving an island, "and some other solitudes 
 and retirements" — "which gave the first occasion of improving them to those 
 water-works and gardens which afterwards succeeded them, and became at 
 that time the most famous of England." 7 
 
 These anticipatory references to the yet unrealised attractions of Wotton 
 afford another illustration of that "Memoir" character of Evelyn's 
 Kalendarium to which, in the " Preface " to this volume, attention has already 
 been drawn. 8 But the moment was unfavourable to " Hortulan pursuits " ; 
 and after sending his "black manlge horse and furniture" as a propitiatory 
 offering to Charles at Oxford, and shifting for a time uneasily between London 
 and Surrey to escape signing the Solemn League and Covenant, Evelyn 
 reluctantly came once more to the conclusion that without "doing very 
 unhandsome things," it was impracticable for him to remain in his disturbed 
 native land. For the law he felt he had no kind of aptitude ; and therefore, 
 not to delay until — in the mixed metaphor of one of his contemporaries — "the 
 drums and trumpets blew his gown over his ears," 9 he applied for, and in 
 October, 1643, obtained, His Majesty's licence to travel again. 10 This 
 permission did not apparently, as in James Howell's case, involve a prohibition 
 
 1 P. 19. 2 P. 25. s P 25 
 
 4 By whom ? — is a not unreasonable question. Bray, however, puts the matter more 
 intelligibly: — "After the battle there [at Brentford] he desisted, considering that his 
 brother's, as well as his own estates, were so near London as to be fully in the power of 
 the Parliament" {Memoirs of John Evelyn, 1827, i. xv.). 
 
 5 P. 25. 6 P. 26. 7 P. 26. 8 P# viii 
 9 Sir John Bramston {Autobiography, 1845, p. 103). 10 P. 26. 
 
INTRODUCTION XV 
 
 to visit that contagious centre of Romanism, Rome, since Evelyn later spent 
 several months there. His travelling companion, on this second occasion, 
 was his Balliol friend Thicknesse, not as yet ejected from his fellowship for 
 loyalty. He subsequently speaks of other and later "fellow-travellers in 
 Italy" — Lord Bruce, Mr. J. CrafTord, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, Mr. Francis 
 Bramston, etc. But of his compagnons de voyage we hear little in his 
 chronicle, and it is more convenient in general to speak of him as if he were 
 alone. 
 
 Setting out from the Tower wharf on the 9th November, he made perilous 
 passage " in a pair of oars " and " a hideous storm " to Sittingbourne. Thence 
 he went by post to Dover, and so to Calais. From Calais, after inspecting — 
 like most of his countrymen — the "relics of our former dominion," he 
 proceeded to Boulogne, narrowly escaping drowning in crossing a swollen 
 river. Pushing forward, not without apprehension of the predatory Spanish 
 "volunteers," he came by Montreuil and Abbeville to Beauvais, and that 
 " dormitory of the French Kings," St. Denis. Here, in the Abbey Church, he 
 surveyed, with respectful incredulity, the portrait of the Queen of Sheba, the 
 lantern of Judas Iscariot, the drinking-cup of Solomon, and the other "equally 
 authentic toys " of that time-honoured collection. About five on a December 
 afternoon he arrived at Paris. 
 
 After a preliminary visit to the English Resident, Sir Richard Browne, 
 Evelyn began his round of the Gallic capital, rejoicing in the superiority of 
 the French freestone to the English cobbles, and visiting the different churches, 
 palaces, public buildings, and private collections. In this way he saw Notre 
 Dame, the Tuileries, the Palais Cardinal, the Luxembourg, St. Germain and 
 Fontainebleau, noting the pictures and curiosities, and not forgetting the 
 puppet-players at the Pont Neuf, or Monsieur du Plessis' celebrated Academy 
 for riding the "great horse" 1 {i.e. charger or war-horse), where, in addition, 
 young gentlemen were taught " to fence, dance, play on music, and something in 
 fortification and the mathematics," 2 — all of which accomplishments (according 
 to Howell) might be acquired for 150 pistoles, or about ^110 per annum, 
 lodging and diet included. He also assisted at a review of twenty thousand 
 men in the Bois de Boulogne. Acting upon Howell's injunctions, 3 he duly 
 scaled the Tower of St. Jacques la Boucherie in order to get a bird's-eye view 
 of the old, populous, picturesque, malodorous Paris of the seventeenth century, 
 lying securely within the zigzag of its outworks, and traversed by the shining 
 Seine. Hard by, at the churchyard of the Innocents, he watched the busy 
 scriveners, with tombstones for tables, incessantly scratching letters for " poor 
 maids and other ignorant people who come to them for advice." 4 
 
 1 " Riding the great horse " was part of a seventeenth-century gentleman's education. 
 "The exercises I chiefly used," — says Lord Herbert of Cherbury,— " and most recommend 
 to my posterity, were riding the "great horse and fencing" [Life, Sidney Lee's edition, 
 1886, p. 68). His brother also refers to this :—" Every morning that he [the country 
 gentleman} is at home, he must either ride the Great Horse, or exercise some of his 
 Military gestures" {The Country Parson, 1652, by George Herbert, Beeching's edition, 
 1898, p. 132). More than fifty years later, Addison's Tory Foxhunter counted "riding the 
 great horse" as one of the useless gains of travel [Freeholder, 5th March, 1716). 
 
 2 P. 42. George Herbert also "commends the Mathematicks," as well as the two 
 noble branches thereof, " of Fortification and Navigation " ( The Country Parson, Beeching's 
 edition, 1898, p. 133). 
 
 3 Forreine Travel, 1642, Sect. iii. 4 P. 41. 
 
xvi THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 But Evelyn's "Grand Tour" occupies about a third of his chronicle, and it 
 is needless here to do more than retrace briefly what he would have called his 
 itinerarium. In April, 1644, after a short excursion into Normandy, he set 
 out for Orleans. From Orleans he went to Blois ; from Blois to Tours, where 
 he stayed five months, learning French and playing "pell-mell" 1 in the 
 "noblest Mall" in Europe. Then he fared southward by Lyons and the 
 Rhone to Avignon, and so to Aix and Marseilles. From Marseilles and its 
 galleys he turned his face eastward, passing from Genoa through Pisa, Leghorn, 
 and Florence to Rome. One of the things he noted on the Italian coast was 
 the scent of orange, citron, and jasmine, floating seaward for miles, — a fragrant 
 memory afterwards recalled in the dedication of his Fumifugium. 2 At Rome 
 he stayed seven months, studying antiquities "very pragmatically" (by which 
 he apparently means no more than "assiduously" or " systematically"), 3 making 
 acquaintance with the more reputable English residents ; visiting, as was his 
 wont, churches and palaces ; and accumulating books, bustos, pictures, and 
 medals. Nor did his restless curiosity neglect the tournaments or the sessions 
 of the Humoristi, — the concerts at the Chiesa Nuova or those now discon- 
 tinued sermons to the Jews at Ponte Sisto which Browning has perpetuated in 
 " Holy Cross Day." Indeed, in the last case, he actually stood sponsor to two 
 of the pretended converts. From Rome he travelled by Vesuvius and Baiae 
 to Naples, the ?ie plus ultra of his wanderings, " since from the report of divers 
 experienced and curious persons, he had been assured there was little more to 
 be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, France, Flanders, and the 
 Low Countries, but plain and prodigious barbarism." 4 This singular con- 
 clusion, however, did not prevent his planning later to start for the Holy Land, 
 to which end he took his passage, thoughtfully laying in a store of drugs and 
 needments in case of sickness. But the vessel in which he proposed to embark 
 was pressed for the war with the already unspeakable Turk, and the project 
 came to an end. 5 
 
 By the time he had reached Venice, it was June 1645 > anc ^ between Venice 
 and Padua, notwithstanding his satiety of " rolling up and down," he spent 
 much of his time until the spring of the next year. At Venice, where he 
 narrowly escaped a serious illness from an inexperienced use of the hot bath, he 
 was fortunate enough to witness the marriage of the Doge and the Adriatic ; 
 and he was highly diverted by the humours of the Carnival, the nightingale 
 cages in the Merceria, and the inordinate chopines and variegated tresses of 
 the Venetian ladies, among whom he must have made some acquaintances, 
 since he relates that, when escorting a gentlewoman to her gondola after a 
 supper at the English Consul's, he was honoured by a couple of musket-shots 
 from another boat containing a noble Venetian, whose curtained privacy he 
 was unwittingly deranging. 6 At Padua, where he had a sharp attack of angina, 
 he attended the anatomical lectures of the learned Veslingius, from whom he 
 purchased the series of Tables of Veins and Arteries later known as the 
 Tabula Eveliniana?, and finally presented by him to the Royal Society. 7 At 
 
 1 This is succinctly defined in the Globe Pepys as "an early form of croquet, derived 
 from France, where the game (jeu de mail, palemail, i.e. in etymology pila and malleus) 
 had been long in vogue (see Jusserand, Les sports et jeux d'exercice, Paris, 1901, p. 304, 
 etc. ). The place at St. James's Park where it used to be played has given the name Pall 
 Mall (cf. rue du Mail, in Paris)." 
 
 3 P. 53. 3 P. 63. 4 P. 98. 5 P. 122. 6 P. 129. 7 Pp. 129, 260. 
 
INTRODUCTION XVU 
 
 Padua, too, he was elected a Syndicus Artistarum, a dignity he declined as 
 being " too chargeable," as well as a hindrance to his movements. Shortly 
 after this he parted from that nominis umbra of the Memoirs, his " dear friend 
 and till now constant fellow-traveller," Mr. Thicknesse, who was obliged to 
 return to England. 1 
 
 In March, 1646, Evelyn himself set out homeward, in company with 
 Edmund Waller the poet, Mr. John Abdy, 2 and Captain Wray, who, as " a 
 good drinking gentleman," was not a very desirable addition to a decorous 
 party. At Milan Evelyn's enthusiasm for art had like to have had grave 
 consequences, for venturing too far into the apartments of the Governor, he 
 ran some risk of being arrested for a spy. 3 Another Milan experience was 
 actually tragic. Invited with his friends to visit a wealthy Scotch resident, 
 and very hospitably entreated, the host subsequently took his guests into his 
 stable to exhibit his stud. Mounting an unbroken horse, when somewhat flown 
 with wine, the animal fell upon him, injuring him so severely that he died a 
 few days afterwards, a sequel which, in a land of Inquisition, had the effect of 
 precipitating the departure of the travellers from the Lombard capital. 4 They 
 set out over the Simplon, "through strange, horrid, and fearful crags and 
 tracts, abounding in pine trees, and only inhabited by bears, wolves, and wild 
 goats," to Geneva. Here Evelyn visited Giovanni Deodati, the translator of 
 the Bible, and the uncle of that Charles Deodati whose premature death 
 prompted Milton's Epitaphium Da?nonis. s Then, having been put at Bouveret 
 into a bed recently vacated by a sick girl, he contracted or developed small- 
 pox, which kept him a prisoner to his chamber for five weeks. His Genevese 
 nurse was " a vigilant Swiss matron, " with a goitre, which, when he occasion- 
 ally woke from his uneasy slumbers, had a most portentous effect. Not long 
 afterwards, he set out down the Rhone in a boat to Lyons. At Roanne the 
 party took boat again ; and so by Nevers to Orleans. " Sometimes, we footed 
 it through pleasant fields and meadows ; sometimes, we shot at fowls, and 
 other birds ; nothing came amiss : sometimes, we played at cards, whilst 
 others sung, or were composing verses ; for we had the great poet, Mr. Waller, 
 in our company, and some other ingenious persons." 6 By October they 
 reached Paris, the end of their pilgrimage, which had occupied Evelyn three 
 years. His expenses— it may be noted— including tutors, servants, and 
 outlay for curios, etc., averaged ,£300 per annum. This is rather under the 
 estimate of the judicious Howell; 7 but it must be remembered that, in 1646, 
 ^300 represented a good deal more than it does now. 
 
 Even in his boyish days — it has been said — " gardens and curiosities " had \ 
 an especial attraction for Evelyn ; and gardens and curiosities, if not the main 
 interest of his foreign travels, continued to engross much of his attention. I 
 Statues and pictures and antiquities he studies carefully and intelligently ; but 
 his real enthusiasm is reserved for those things to which, already at Wotton, he 
 had manifested that inborn leaning which Emerson regarded as the chiefest 
 
 2 Consul for the English at Padua, 1646-47. He was subsequently created a 
 Baronet, and died in 1662. 
 
 3 p. I33 . J P. 136. 5 P. 141- P - r 44- 
 
 7 Forreine Travel, 1642, Sect. iv. (See also p. 447.) In 1760, it cost young Jacob 
 Houblon nearly ^4000 for three years {The Houblon Family, by Lady Alice Archer 
 Houblon, 1907, ii. 83). 
 
 b 
 
X Vlll THE DTA R Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 gift of Fortune. For scenery and landscape, except when conventionally 
 clipped and combed, he really cares but little. Mountains to him are terrifying 
 objects, only to be qualified by highly Latinised adjectives. He must always 
 be remembered as the traveller who found but " hideous rocks " and " gloomy 
 precipices " in the Forest of Fontainebleau ; — the traveller to whom the Alps 
 seemed no more than the piled-up sweepings of the Plain of Lombardy. Had 
 he lived in Waverley's day, it is obvious that he would have preferred the 
 grotesque bears and pleached evergreens of Tully-Veolan to the wildest passes 
 in the realm of Vich Ian Vohr. But let him come across a " trim garden " and 
 his style expands like a sunflower. He is "extraordinarily delighted" with its 
 geometric formalities, — its topiary tours deforce, — its ingenious surprises. He 
 rejoices in the " artificial echo " which, when " some fair nymph sings to its 
 grateful returns," redoubles her canorous notes ; in the " spinning basilisk " 
 that flings a jetto fifty feet high at the bidding of the fountaineer ; in the 
 " extravagant musketeers" who deluge the passing stranger with streams from 
 their carbines ; in that " agreeable cheat " of the painted Arch of Constantine 
 at Rueil against which birds dash themselves to death in the attempt to fly 
 through. He is " infinitely taken " with the innumerable pet tortoises of Gaston 
 of Orleans ; with the still fish-ponds and their secular carp; with the "apiaries" 
 and " volaries " and " rupellary nidaries " (for water-fowl) ; with all the endless 
 *' labyrinths " and " cryptas " and " perspectives," — the avenues and parterres 
 and cascades and terraces, which the genius of Andr£ le Notre had invented 
 to match the architecture of Francois Mansard. Of these things, and of that 
 horticulture which Bacon calls " the Purest of Humane pleasures," and " the 
 Greatest Refreshment to the Spirits of Man," 1 he never grows weary. " I 
 beseech you " — he writes later to one about to travel — " I beseech you forget 
 not to inform yourself as diligently as may be, in things that belong to 
 Gardening, for that will serve both yourself and your friends for an infinite 
 diversion." 2 Here speaks the coming author of the Kalendarium Hortense, — 
 the projector of the all-embracing and never-to-be-ended Ely shim Britannicum. 
 This practical and educational aspect of the Grand Tour is another and not 
 less noteworthy feature of Evelyn's Continental journeyings. For him they 
 were emphatically means to an end, — an end of graver import than that 
 " vanity of the eye only, which to other travellers has usually been the 
 temptation of making tours." 3 His experiences correspond almost exactly to 
 the Wa?iderjahre with which the apprentices of the day rounded off their 
 apprenticeship, only in Evelyn's case it was an apprenticeship to the business 
 of living. He brought back none of these " foppish fancies, foolish guises and 
 disguises," against which honest Samuel Purchas inveighs in the " Preface " to 
 his Pilgrimes. On the contrary, he had acted entirely in the spirit of that 
 Omnia explorate : meliora retinete of St. Paul, which he had chosen for his 
 motto. He had largely increased his knowledge of foreign tongues ; he had 
 made no mean progress in natural philosophy ; he had learned something of 
 music and drawing ; and he had taken much " agreeable toil " among ruins 
 and antiquities, and " the cabinets and curiosities of the virtuosi." 4 Better 
 still, he had come "to know men, customs, courts, and disciplines, and what- 
 soever superior excellencies the places afford, befitting a person of birth and 
 
 1 Essay xlvi. — ' ' Of Gardens. " 
 
 2 Letter to Mr. Maddox, ioth January, 1657. 3 Ibid. 
 4 Letter to Thomas Henshaw, 1st March, 1698. 
 
INTRODUCTION xix 
 
 noble impressions." The quotation may be continued, applying the words, 
 which, though not written of himself, are his, to his own case. " This is the 
 fruit of travel : thus our incomparable Sidney was bred ; 1 and this, ta?igitam 
 Minerva Pkidics, sets the crown upon his perfections when a gallant man shall 
 return with religion and courage, knowledge and modesty, without pedantry, 
 without affectation, material and serious, to the contentment of his relations, 
 the glory of his family, the star and ornament of his age. This is trul y to give 
 a citizen to h is country." 2 
 
 II 
 
 With the conclusion of his Grand Tour, Evelyn ceased to be what he styles 
 an individuum vagum^ or — in the words of the Psalmist — " like a wheel " for 
 rolling. 3 To the close of his career he continued to recall with pleasure the 
 days when he had wandered abroad, not " to count steeples " but for edification. 
 Yet though he more than once, in the next few years, passed between London 
 and Paris, he never again visited the Continent as a bona-jide traveller. In the 
 meantime, his first weeks in the French capital were spent idly enough. Like 
 Byron at Venice, however, he soon found the want of " something craggy to 
 break his mind upon" ; and he began to study Spanish and High Dutch, both 
 of which things would be of use to him when, later, he came to write the history 
 of the second war with Holland. He also "refreshed" his dancing, and other 
 neglected exercises " not in much reputation amongst the sober Italians." 4 
 He frequented the chemistry course of M. Nicasius Lefevre, afterwards 
 apothecary to Charles II., and ("though to small perfection") took lessons on 
 the lute from Mercure. 5 Finally — and perhaps consequently — he fell in love, 
 — the lady being Mary, sole daughter and heiress of the English Resident, Sir 
 Richard Browne. She was certainly rather young (for these days), if her 
 tombstone at Wotton Church correctly describes her as in her seventy-fourth 
 year in 1709, which would make her between twelve and thirteen. Be this as 
 it may, they were married at the chapel of the Embassy on Thursday, the 27th 
 June, 1647, when the Paris streets were gay with the images and flowers and 
 tapestry of the feast of Corpus Christi. 6 The officiating clergyman was Dr. 
 John Earle of the Micro-cosmographie^ then an exile for his adherence to the 
 Stuarts. The union, which was an entirely happy one, lasted for more than 
 fifty-eight years. There will be something to say of Mary Evelyn hereafter. 
 It is only needful now to recall her own words in her will, when she desired to 
 be laid beside the husband she survived. " His care of my education "—she 
 sa y S — " W as such as might become a father, a lover, a friend, and husband ; 
 
 1 Sir Philip Sidney was a distinguished and early Grand Tourist, having, like Evelyn, 
 his permit from the Crown. In 1572 Elizabeth granted to "her trusty and well-beloved 
 Philip Sidney, Esq., to go out of England into parts beyond the sea, with three servants 
 and four horses, etc. , to remain the space of two years immediately following his departure 
 out of the realm, for the obtaining the knowledge of foreign languages " (Symonds' Sidney, 
 
 1886, p. 23). 
 
 2 Evelyn to Edward Thurland, 8th November, 1658.. He had already enlarged upon 
 
 this topic in the " Preface " to the State of France, 1652. 
 
 3 Sterne professed to regard this as an anticipation of ' ' the grand tour, and that restless 
 spirit for making it, which David prophetically foresaw would haunt the children of men in 
 the latter days " [Tristram Shandy, vol. vii. ch. 13). 
 
 4 p. I44 . m 5 P. 144. 6 P. 145- 
 
xx THE DIARY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 for instruction, tenderness, affection & fidelity to the last moment of his life * 
 which obligation I mention with a gratitude to his memory, ever dear to me ; 
 & I must not omit to own the sense I have of my Parents' care & goodnesse in 
 placing me in such worthy hands." l 
 
 Not long after his marriage, Evelyn's affairs carried him to England ; and 
 in October, 1647, ne left his young wife in charge of her "prudent mother." 
 One of his earliest visits was to King Charles, then the prisoner of Cromwell 
 at Hampton Court ; but, as Lucy Hutchinson reports, "rather in the condition 
 of a guarded and attended prince, than as a conquered and purchased captive." 2 
 Evelyn gave the King an account of " several things he had in charge " — 
 doubtless commissions from Henrietta Maria and Prince Charles, then 
 domiciled at St. Germain. He afterwards went to Sayes Court, a house on 
 the Thames at Deptford leased by the Crown to his father-in-law, and at this 
 date occupied, in Sir Richard's absence, by his kinsman, William Pretyman. 3 
 At Sayes Court Evelyn appears to have stayed frequently, 4 and in January, 
 1649, took up his residence there. 5 Most of the intervening months of 1648 
 must have been occupied by an extremely hazardous correspondence in cypher 
 with Browne at Paris, carried on over the signature of "Aplanos." 6 In 
 January, 1649, too, he published his first book, a translation of the Liberty and 
 Servitude of Moliere's friend, Francois de La Mothe Le Vayer, for the Preface 
 of which (he says) " I was severely threatened." 7 The peccant passages in 
 the eyes of the authorities were doubtless those which declared that " never 
 was there either heard or read of a more equal and excellent form of govern- 
 ment than that under w ch we ourselves have lived, during the reign of our 
 most gratious Soveraigne's Halcion daies," and with this was contrasted " that 
 impious impostoria pila, so frequently of late exhibited and held forth to the 
 people, whilst (in the meane time) indeed, it is thrown into the hands of a few 
 private persons." The book was issued only a day or two before " his Majesty's 
 decollation" (30th January, 1649), 8 of which "execrable wickedness" Evelyn 
 could not bring himself to become an eye-witness. 9 
 
 Among the collateral results of the King's death was the seizure as Crown 
 property of Sayes Court, to be forthwith surveyed and sold for state require- 
 ments. These things must have been in progress when, in July 1649, after an 
 absence in England of a year and a half, Evelyn returned to Paris. He was 
 well received by the members of the exiled royal family, and appears to have 
 been on terms of intimacy with Clarendon (then Sir Edward Hyde), Ormonde, 
 Newcastle, St. Albans, Waller, Hobbes, Denham, and most of the illustrious 
 fugitives assembled at St. Germain. Perhaps the most interesting event of 
 this not very eventful period in Evelyn's biography was his connection with 
 the artist, Robert Nanteiiil, who drew and engraved his portrait ; and from 
 whom he took lessons in etching and engraving. Nanteuil's picture represents 
 him in his younger days, with loose Cavalier locks hanging about a grave, 
 pensive face, and with his cloak worn " bawd rike- wise" — as Montaigne says. 
 In the summer of 1650 he paid a brief visit to England, again for affairs, 
 
 1 Memoirs of John Evelyn, etc., 1827, iv. 444. 
 
 2 Memoirs of Colonel Hutchinson, 1863, p. 305. See also p. 145. 3 P. 145. 
 
 4 Letters of "Aplanos" (see note 6) to Sir Richard Browne, 21st April and 18th 
 December, 1648. 6 P. 147. 
 
 6 P. 148. The cypher used is in the British Museum (Add. MSS. 15837). 
 
 7 P. 147. 8 Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 3, 5, 6. , 9 P. 147. 
 
INTRODUCTION xxi 
 
 returning speedily to Paris. After Cromwell's " crowning mercy " of Worcester, 
 any change for the better seeming out of the question, he decided to settle in 
 England ; and if practicable, endeavour to arrive at some arrangement with 
 the existing possessors of Sayes Court. In this course he had both the con- 
 currence of his father-in-law and the countenance of his compliant Majesty 
 Charles II., who promised, whenever the ways were open, to secure to 
 him in fee-farm any part of the property which might come back to the 
 Crown, — a promise which, it is perhaps needless to add, was not performed. 
 But as the outcome of Evelyn's negotiations, he eventually acquired possession 
 of Saves Court and some adjoining lands for ,£3500^ the "sealing, livery and 
 seisin" being effected on the 22nd February, 1653. 1 (^Already he had begun to 
 plant and lay out the grounds ; and for some yearshis records contain dis- 
 persed references to the gradual transformation of what had been a rude 
 orchard and field of a hundred acres into that eminently " boscaresque " 
 combination of garden, walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations, which so 
 soon became the admiration of the neighbourhood. 2 ") 
 
 In June, 1652, Evelyn was at last joined by his wife, who, accompanied by 
 her mother, Lady Browne, arrived from Paris, not without apprehensions of 
 capture by the Dutch fleet, then hovering near our coasts. After being three 
 days at sea, she landed at Rye ; and Evelyn promptly established her at 
 Tunbridge, to careen ; 3 while he himself hastened forward to prepare Sayes 
 Court for her reception. It was on his way thither that he was robbed at the 
 Procession Oak near Bromley, in the way recounted in the Diary} In the 
 following autumn Lady Browne died of scarlet fever, and was buried at St. 
 Nicholas, Deptford. From this time forth, after carrying his wife upon a long 
 round of visits among her relatives, Evelyn remained quietly at home, 
 developing and improving his estate ; occupying himself in study and 
 meditation ; and diligently performing such religious exercises as were possible 
 in days when the parish pulpits, for the most part, were given over to 
 " Independents and Fanatics," and the Prayer Book and Sacraments were 
 proscribed. 6 Four sons were born to him at this period, 6 of whom one only, 
 John, survived childhood. The eldest, Richard, a "dearest, strangest miracle 
 
 1 Pp. 165 and 171. 
 
 2 " The hithermost Grove " — says a manuscript at Wotton House — " I planted about 
 1656 ; the other beyond it, 1660 ; the lower Grove, 1662 ; the holly hedge even with the 
 Mount hedge below, 1670. I planted every hedge, and tree not onely in the gardens, 
 groves, etc., but about all the fields and house since 1653, except those large, old and 
 hollow elms in the stable court and next the sewer ; for it was before, all one pasture field 
 to the very garden of the house, which was but small ; from which time also I repaired the 
 ruined house, and built the whole of the kitchen, the chapel, buttry, my study, above and 
 below, cellars and all the outhouses and walls, still-house, orangerie, and made the gardens, 
 etc. , to my great cost, and better I had don to have pulled all down at first, but it was don 
 at several times" [Memoirs of lohn Evelyn, 1827, iv. 418). 
 
 3 And once in seven years I'm seen 
 At Bath or Tunbridge, to careen. 
 
 Green's Spleen. 
 
 4 Pp. 168-9. 
 
 5 Pp. 148, 166, 185 and 187. Of some of the difficulties besetting the seventeenth- 
 century " passive resister " Evelyn gives a graphic picture in the episode at Exeter Chapel, 
 pp. 195-6. But there must have been exceptions, for he admits that, at St. Gregory's, 
 " the ruling Powers connived at the use of the Liturgy, etc." (p. 186). 
 
 6 Pp. 170, 172, 185 and 194. 
 
xxii THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 of a boy," as he is styled by Jeremy Taylor, died in January, 1658, to the 
 inexpressible grief of his parents. Of his extraoidinary gifts and precocity at 
 five years old, an ample account is given in the Diary, as well as in the 
 "Epistle Dedicatory" to the Golden Book of St. John Chrysostom, concerning 
 the Education of Children, in translating which the bereaved father sought 
 consolation for his loss. 1 This was the period of Evelyn's friendship for 
 Jeremy Taylor, to whose eloquent periods " concerning evangelical perfection" 
 he had listened admiringly at St. Gregory's in St. Paul's Churchyard, and whom 
 he had subsequently taken to be his "ghostly father." 2 Many of the letters 
 which passed between them at this date are of the highest interest as throwing 
 light upon Evelyn's devout and serious nature ; and there is little doubt that 
 his sympathy and pecuniary assistance 3 were freely bestowed upon Taylor in 
 those troublous days, when, in the Preface to The Golden Grove, he praised 
 "Episcopal Government," and denounced the "impertinent and ignorant 
 preachers " who filled the pulpits of the Parliament. 4 
 
 The version of St. Chrysostom above referred to was by no means Evelyn's 
 only literary production before the Restoration. Early in 1652, he had 
 published a letter to a friend on The State of Fra?ice, prefaced by some 
 excellent remarks and suggestions concerning the uses of foreign travel ; and 
 giving a minute account of that country in the ninth year of the reign of 
 Louis XIV. Professedly, it is a conventional record of the kind which all 
 visitors to the Continent were exhorted by their Governors to compile ; but it 
 is exceptionally concise and careful. In 1656 this was succeeded by a transla- 
 tion, "to charm his anxious thoughts during those sad and calamitous times," 
 of the first book of Lucretius' De Rerum Natura, — a task at first not wholly to 
 the taste of his " ghostly father," who, lest the work should " minister indirectly 
 to error," enjoined him to supply " a sufficient antidote " either by notes or 
 preface. For the Lucretius, Mrs. Evelyn, who was a pretty artist, designed a 
 frontispiece, which Hollar engraved. 6 The Chrysostom, which came next, was 
 followed in December, 1658, 6 by another translation, undertaken at the instance 
 of Evelyn's old travelling companion, Henshaw, of the French Gardener of 
 Bonnefons. From references in the " Dedication " to future treatment by its writer 
 of the "appendices to gardens" (i.e. parterres, grots, fountains, and so forth), 
 it is plain that the " hortulan " proprietor of Sayes Court was already meditating 
 the Elysium Britannicum? Maenwhile, he bids his friend call to mind the 
 rescript of Diocletian 8 to those who would persuade him to re-assume the 
 
 1 Pp. 196-7 and 199. 2 Pp. 173, 185. 
 
 '■' Letter to Jeremy Taylor, 9th May, 1657, and of Taylor to Evelyn, 3rd November, 1659. 
 
 4 Gosse's Jeremy Taylor, 1904, pp. in, 113. 
 
 5 P. 189. Evelyn never pursued this task, though Taylor seems to have afterwards 
 encouraged him to do so. On one of his " ghostly father's " letters to this effect (15th 
 September, 1656), he wrote in pencil, "I would be none of y e Ingeniosi malo publico" 
 (see also letter to Meric Casaubon, 15th July, 1674). 6 P. 200. 
 
 7 See Appendix VII. 
 
 8 Cowley works this rescript into the closing strophe of The Garden, which he addressed 
 to Evelyn from Chertsey in August, 1666 : — 
 
 Methinks I see great Dioclesian walk 
 In the Salonian gardens noble shade, 
 Web by his own Imperial hands was made . 
 I see him smile, meethinks, as hee does talk 
 W th the Ambassadours who come in vain 
 T'entice him to a throne again : 
 
INTRODUCTION xxin 
 
 empire. " For it is impossible that he who is a true virtuoso, and has attained 
 to the felicity of being a good gardener, should give jealousie to the State 
 where he lives." x 
 
 The French Gardener went through several editions. After this came, in 
 1659, a tract entitled A Character of England, purporting to be translated from J 
 the French of a recent visitor to this country. In this Evelyn briskly | 
 " perstringes" some of the national shortcomings, — the discourtesy to strangers, 
 the familiarity of the innkeepers, the " inartificial congestion " of the houses, 
 the irregularities of public worship, the fogs, the drinking, the cards, the tedium 
 of visits and the lack of ceremony, to some of which things we shall find him 
 afterwards return. 2 A Character of England was promptly replied to, with 
 many " sordid reproaches " of the supposed foreign critic, in a scurrilous 
 pamphlet entitled Gallus Castratus. To this impertinent "whifHer" Evelyn 
 rejoined in a brief vindicatory letter prefixed to his third edition. But whatever 
 may be thought as to the justice or injustice of his strictures, it is notable that 
 they were, in some measure, reiterated, not many years afterwards, by a 
 genuine French traveller, M. Samuel de Sorbieres, 3 who, in his turn, was 
 angrily assailed by Sprat. 
 
 Evelyn's vindication is dated 24th June, 1659 ; and his next notable, though/ 
 unpublished, utterance was a proposal embodied in a letter to the Hon. Robert 
 Boyle, for erecting '' a philosophic and mathematic college." 4 This was 
 written in the following September. By this date Cromwell was dead and 
 buried ; his colourless successor had been displaced ; and the Restoration was 
 within measurable distance. Evelyn's further literary efforts were frankly 
 royalist. The first, issued in November, 1659, was what he himself styles u a 
 IxAcTKpology" for the Royal Party. 6 It met with such success that a second 
 and third edition were called for within the year. The second belongs to the 
 Annus Mirabilis itself. It was an indignant retort, composed under great 
 disadvantages, for the writer was at the time seriously unwell, to a calumnious 
 pamphlet by Marchamont Needham, called News from Brussels, in which it 
 was suggested that the exiled monarch and his adherents were animated solely 
 by a desire to avenge their wrongs. Evelyn had little difficulty in refuting this 
 
 If I, my friends (said hee) should to you show 
 All the contents which in this garden grow, 
 'Tis likelier much y* you should with mee stay, 
 Then 'tis y* you should carry mee away : 
 And trust mee not, my friends, if every day 
 
 I walk not here with more delight 
 Than ever, after the most happy fight, 
 In triumph to the Capitol I rod, 
 To thank ye Gods, and to bee thought, my self almost a God, 
 
 Upcott, who prints this piece at pp. 435"42 of the Miscellaneous Writings, claims to 
 have carefully corrected it from an original manuscript of Cowley, given to him by Lady 
 
 Evelyn. 
 
 1 Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, p. 98. 
 
 2 Pp. 208, and 166, 171, and 173, etc. 
 
 3 Sorbieres visited England in 1663. M. Jusserand has given a delightful account oi 
 him in his English Essays from a French Pen, 1895, pp. 158-92. Evelyn, who did not 
 like Sorbieres, wrote to Sprat about him on the 31st October, 1664, and Pepys mentions his 
 book under 13th of the same month. 
 
 *» See Appendix III. " p - ao1 - 
 
xxiv THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 slander, 1 which was, moreover, contradicted by the Declaration of Breda, and 
 the express assurances of the leading royalists that they were " satisfied to 
 bury all past injuries in the joy of the happy restoration of the King, Laws, 
 and Constitution." In a few weeks the consummation so devoutly wished had 
 been attained. Evelyn was still too ill to go himself to Holland to bring the 
 King back, as he had been invited to do. But on the triumphant 29th of May, 
 he stood in the Strand, and blessed God for the return of Charles II. to the 
 throne of his ancestors. 2 
 
 Ill 
 
 To those acquainted with the history of the next quarter of a century, the 
 enthusiasm of such a man as John Evelyn for such a monarch as Charles the 
 Second must seem strange. But, apart from the benefits which the Restoration 
 brought and promised to those who had groaned under the regime of the 
 Commonwealth, it must be remembered that the Charles of May, 1660, was 
 not precisely the Charles who died at St. James's — " victim of his own vices " 
 — in February, 1685. He had borne himself in exile and adversity not without 
 a certain dignity ; if he was as profligate as those about him, his profligacy had 
 not been openly scandalous ; and he had conspicuously, at all times, the facile 
 bonhomie of the Stuarts. His love of pleasure had not yet absorbed the 
 faculties which disappeared with the paralysis of his will-power. To Evelyn, 
 who had known him at St. Germain, many of his tastes were congenial. Like 
 Evelyn himself, he possessed much of what Taine calls " la flotiante et in- 
 ventive curio site' du siecle? He affected the easier and more mechanical 
 mathematics ; he dabbled in chemistry, anatomy, astronomy ; he was deeply 
 learned in shipping and sea affairs ; he collected paintings, miniatures, ivories, 
 and Japan-ware ; and he delighted in planting and building. All these things 
 were attractive to Evelyn, who was only too willing to be consulted concerning 
 a fresh plan for reconstructing Whitehall (when funds were forthcoming) ; or 
 to develop his own proposals for dispersing the ever-increasing smoke of 
 London. With most good men, he lamented the gradual deterioration of 
 Charles's character ; and he detested alike the parasites who fostered his 
 baser humours, and the shameless women who ministered to his lust. Yet — 
 " reverencing king's blood in a bad man " — he never entirely relinquished his 
 earlier impressions. " He was ever kind to me," he writes in 1685, "and very 
 gracious upon all occasions, and therefore I cannot, without ingratitude, but 
 deplore his loss, which for many respects, as well as duty, I do with all my 
 soul." 3 
 
 For the moment, however, — the hopeful moment of May, 1660, — all was 
 promise and rosy expectation. His Majesty was very affable to his "old 
 acquaintance," Mr. Evelyn ; and he was particularly attentive to Mrs. Evelyn, 
 
 1 The late News from Brussels unmasked, a?id His Majesty vindicated from the base 
 Calumny and Scandal therein fixed on him {Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 193-204. 
 See also p. 203). 2 P. 203. 
 
 3 Seven years later this feeling was still strong. Commenting upon the disregard, under 
 William and Mary, of Restoration Day, he writes, " There was no notice taken of it, nor 
 any part of the office annexed to the Common Prayer- Book made use of, which I think was 
 ill done, in regard his [King Charles's] restoration not only redeemed us from anarchy and 
 confusion, bqt restored the Church of England, as it were miraculously " (p. 428). 
 
INTRODUCTION xxv 
 
 whom, as the daughter of the English Resident, he must also have known at 
 Paris. He was good enough to accept politely a picture she painted for him, 
 and he carried her into his private closet to show her his curiosities. He even 
 talked vaguely of making her Lady of the Jewels to the new Queen who was 
 coming from Portugal. Evelyn himself might have had the Bath ; but he 
 refused it. He did, however, obtain, though not altogether in the form he had 
 been led to expect it (this was a not unfrequent peculiarity of His Majesty's 
 benefactions), a lease of Sayes Court, which now reverted to the Crown. 1 It 
 is clear that the King, who piqued himself on his knowledge of character, saw 
 at once that John Evelyn, Esquire, although "a studious decliner of honours 
 and titles," was a man likely to be useful in many extra-Court capacities. He 
 speedily employed him in drawing up an " impartial narrative " of an affray 
 between the French and Spanish Ambassadors on a question of precedence ; \ 
 he placed him on different Commissions. — Charitable Uses. Street Improve- 
 ment, and the like ; and finally, he nominated him a Member of the Council 
 of that Royal Society, the founding of which, in 1662, 2 must always be regarded | 
 — in spite of Rochester's epigram — as an eminently " wise '' proceeding on His 
 Majesty's part. With this illustrious body Evelyn had been identified from its 
 infancy as a Philosophic Club under the Commonwealth ; and he continued to 
 take an interest in its fortunes to the end of his life. 
 
 More than one of the works which he produced in the next few years were 
 connected directly or indirectly with the new institution. After the regulation 
 Poem on His Majesty 7 s Coronation 3 (concerning which " Panegyric ,J we are told 
 that the King inquired apprehensively, first, whether it was in Latin, and, 
 secondly, whether it was long), Evelyn inscribed to Charles his already-men- 
 tioned treatise called Fumifugiumj or, the Inconvenience of the Air and Smoke 
 of London dissipated, in which various ingenious expedients were suggested 
 for the remedy of a nuisance upon which the County Council of our day are 
 still assiduously reporting. 4 . This was a subject entirely within the purview 
 of the Royal Society ; but the book unfortunately appeared before that body 
 had been constituted by Charter. In the " Epistle Dedicatory" to his next 
 production, a version of Gabriel Naude^s Avis pour dresser une Bibliotheque, b 
 a work which candid Mr. Pepys considered to be " above my reach," Evelyn \ 
 paid a glowing tribute to his new associates, receiving their public thanks in 
 return." The " Naudaeus " was succeeded by " a little trifle of sumptuary laws," 
 entitled Tyrannus or the Mode. He seems to have regarded this as the initial 
 cause of that Persian costume, in which, a few years later, the English court 
 amused themselves by masquerading, until the fashion-making " Roi-Soleil? 
 by a supreme stroke of impertinence, put his lacqueys into similar livery, and 
 thus gave " Mr. Spectator," in the next age, a pretext for the excellent fable of 
 " Brunetta and Phillis." 6 
 
 None of Evelyn's efforts had, however, so close a connection with the Royal 
 Society as the two which now followed ; and they are, in some respects, his 
 most important performances. One, Sculptura; or, the History and Art of\ 
 Chalcography, 1662 7 (which included an account of the so-called "new] 
 
 1 See ante, p. xxi, and p. 282. 2 Pp. 208, 215. 
 
 3 P. 212. 4 P- 2I 4> an d Times, 17th June, 1907. 
 
 5 p. 2I7 . 6 Pp. 217, 251-2. 
 
 7 Pp. 208, 221. A pretty reprint of Sculptura, edited by Mr. C. F. Bell, has recently 
 been added to the " Tudor and Stuart Library" (Clarendon Press), which includes an 
 
xxvi THE D1AR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Manner" of engraving in mezzotint, learned by Prince Rupert from Ludwig 
 von Siegen), was suggested by Boyle, to whom it was inscribed. In this 
 Evelyn combined what he had acquired from Nanteuil and Abraham Bosse" 
 with much that was the result of his own minute and learned study of the 
 graphic arts. The other book, Sylva, is so generally regarded as his master- 
 piece that it is frequently used by his descendants as an adjective to qualify his 
 surname. It originated in a number of queries put to the Royal Society by 
 the Commissioners of the Navy respecting the future supply of timber for 
 ship-building. To these Evelyn replied elaborately in October, 1662, by 
 reading before the Society a paper on forest trees, of which they forthwith 
 ordered the printing as their first official issue. In 1664, it duly appeared in 
 expanded form ; and its author continued to retouch it lovingly in different 
 fresh editions. He had, moreover, the satisfaction of seeing that the " sensible 
 and notorious decay " of his beloved country's " wooden walls " was in a measure 
 arrested by his recommendations, for his book was thoroughly successful in its 
 object ; and there was no exaggeration on the part of the elder Disraeli, when, 
 in an oft-quoted passage, he declared that Nelson's fleets were built from the 
 oaks that Evelyn planted^ To Sylva, in its printed form, its author added 
 Pomona, an Appendix on Cider, together with a Kale?idarium Hortense; or, 
 ■Gardener 's Almanack. 1 His only remaining effort of any moment at this date 
 I was a translation of Roland Freart's Parallel of the Ancie?it Architecture with 
 I the Modern, 1664, a work in which, as may perhaps be guessed, the claims of 
 the Ancients were not underrated either by author or translator. 2 The Parallel 
 was dedicated first to the King, and secondly (although Evelyn privately held 
 him to be "a better poet than architect") 3 to Sir John Denham of Cooper's 
 Hill, then Superintendent and Surveyor of the Crown Buildings and Works. 
 To this book Evelyn probably owed his subsequent appointment as Com- 
 missioner for the repair of Old St. Paul's. 4 But his next important function of 
 this kind was in connection with the care of the Sick and Wounded during the 
 Dutch War. 5 
 
 Of Evelyn's activity in his responsible task ; of its onerous character (for 
 most of the work fell on his district) ; 6 and of the difficulty of obtaining the 
 needful supplies from an Exchequer depleted by Royal extravagance, the Diary 
 affords abundant proof. But to the biographer, seeking the individual behind 
 the record, perhaps the most interesting thing about this office is,(that it 
 :> brought Evelyn into relations with his fellow-diarist, PepyjT} Of Pepys, during 
 ^ the ten years over which his Diary extends, Evelyn says never a word. But 
 Pepys, on the contrary, mentions Evelyn several times, with the result that we 
 get a view of Evelyn which his own chronicle does not supply. Pepys' first 
 reference is on the 5th May, 1665 — a memorable day, for Pepys had left off 
 wearing his own hair, and taken permanently to periwigs. He visiteH Sayes 
 Court, the owner being absent, and walked in the garden. " And a very noble, 
 lovely ground he hath indeed ! " writes Pepys, admiring in particular the 
 " transparent apiary" or bee-hive which had come from that ingenious F.R.S., 
 Dr. Wilkins of Wadham College. 7 Then he meets Mr. Evelyn at Captain 
 
 unpublished Second Part discovered by Professor A. H. Church in the Archives of the Royal 
 Society, and dealing after Bosse with the use and construction of the Rolling Press. 
 
 1 Pp. 224, 22.9, 268. 2 P. 232. 3 P. 216. 
 
 •* P. 246. 5 P- 233. 
 
 G Kent and Sussex. Cp. p. 287. 7 P. 176. 
 
INTRODUCTION xxvn 
 
 Cocke's (Captain Cocke was the Treasurer to the Commissioners for the Sick 
 and Wounded), and we see Evely n m bell e humettr. Lord Sandwich has taken 
 some East India prizes. " The receipt oTtrnsliews did put us all into such an 
 ecstasy of joy, that it inspired into Sir J. Minnes [Mennes] and Mr. Evelyn 
 such a spirit of mirth, that in all my life I never met with so merry a two 
 hours as our company this night was." Sir J. Mennes was a chartered farceur ; 
 but he was surpassed by Evelyn. "Among other humours, Mr. Evelyn's 
 repeating of some verses made up of nothing but the various acceptations of 
 may and can, and doing it so aptly upon occasion of something of that nature, 
 and so fast, did make us all die almost with laughing, and did so stop the 
 mouth of Sir J. Minnes in the middle of all his mirth (and in a thing agreeing 
 with his own manner of genius) that I never saw any man so out-done in all 
 my life ; and Sir J. Minnes's mirth too to see himself out-done, was the crown 
 of all our mirth." 1 
 
 After this, as might be anticipated, Pepys received a complimentary copy of 
 that Naudaeus which he found above his reach. He goes to Sayes Court 
 again, and is shown the famous holly-hedge, later so wantonly maltreated by 
 Peter the Great. 2 But his account of a subsequent visit is fuller and more 
 personal in its portraiture : — " By water to Deptford, and there made a visit 
 to Mr. Evelyn, who, among other things, showed me most excellent painting 
 in little ; in distemper, in Indian ink, water-colours ; graving ; and, above all, 
 the whole secret of mezzotinto, and the manner of it, which is very pretty, 3 and 
 good things done with it. He read to me very much also of his discourse, he 
 hath been many years and now is about, about Gardenage ; 4 which will be a 
 most noble and pleasant piece. He read me part of a play or two of his making, 
 very good, but not as he conceits them, I think, to be. 6 He showed me his 
 Hortus Hyemalis ; 6 leaves laid up in a book of several plants kept dry, which 
 preserve colour, however, and look very finely, better than any herbal. In fine, 
 a most excellent person he is, and must be allowed a little for a little conceited- 
 ness ; but he may well be so, being a man so much above others. He read me, 
 though with too much gusto, some little poems of his own, that were not tran- 
 scendent, yet one or two very pretty epigrams ; among others, of a lady looking 
 in a grate \cage\ and being pecked by an eagle that was there." 7 
 
 Evelyn was ten years older than the Clerk of the Acts, and it is easy to see 
 that the ice as yet was only partially broken. Upon his next visit, 8 after some 
 "most excellent discourse," Evelyn presents his new acquaintance with the 
 ledger kept by a previous Treasurer of the Navy, a relic which is still to be 
 seen in the British Museum. 9 Upon another occasion, in Lord Brouncker's 
 coach, Evelyn develops to Pepys his project of an Infirmary, 10 and deplores 
 
 1 Pepys' Diary, ioth September, 1665. Sir John Mennes, 1 599-1 671, was co-publisher 
 with Dr. James Smith of Wits Recreations, 1640, and Musarum Delicice, 1655. 
 
 2 Pepys' Diary, 5th October, 1665 ; and p. 445. 3 P. 221. 4 P. 478. 
 
 5 This may have been the tragi-comedy of Thyrsander, still said to be at Wotton. It 
 was certainly written at this date, for Evelyn refers to it in a letter to Lord Cornbury of 
 9th February, 1665. Of the other dramatic efforts mentioned by Pepys no particulars are 
 given. It would be interesting to know if Evelyn anticipated Fontenelle, and wrote upon 
 Abdalonymus, the gardener king of Sidon. Or he might have taken Diocletian for his 
 hero. (See ante, p. xxii. n.) 6 P. 126. 
 
 7 Pepys' Diary, 5th November, 1665. 8 24th November, 1665. 
 
 iJ Globe Pepys, by Professor G. Gregory Smith, 1905, p. 357. 
 
 10 29th January, 1666. 
 
xx vm THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 the vanity and vices of the Court, therein proving himself "a most worthy 
 person." l Once more he goes to Sayes Court, and wanders about the garden. 
 By this time they are friends. " The more I know him, the more I love him," 
 he says of its owner. 2 But his longest and most important record comes on 
 the 26th April, 1667, when he walks for two hours with Evelyn at Whitehall, 
 "talking of the badness of the Government, where nothing but wickedness, 
 and wicked men and women command the King : that it is not in his nature 
 to gainsay anything that relates to his pleasures ; that much of it arises from 
 the sickliness of our Ministers of State, who cannot be about him as the idle 
 companions are, and therefore he gives way to the young rogues ; and then, 
 from the negligence of the Clergy, that a Bishop shall never be seen about 
 him, as the ^King of Fra nce hath always " — a sovereign for whom Evelyn seems 
 at this date to have entertained a qualified respect, although he comes after- 
 wards, under the date of the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, to stigmatise him 
 as the inhuman " French tyrant." 3 The main topic of conversation, however, 
 — at all events the topic upon which Pepys lingers with the greatest particularity 
 — is the then recent marriage of the belle Stewart — that most radiant of all the 
 Hampton Court Gallery — to the third Duke of Richmond. Evelyn manifestly 
 had a better opinion of her than most of her contemporaries ; and his testi- 
 mony (as Lord Braybrooke says) is not to be disregarded. 4 There are later 
 interviews, in which the talk is mainly of " the times," " our ruin approaching," 
 and " the folly of the King." But upon all this intercourse — as already ob- 
 served — Evelyn keeps silence. Yet, without the record of Pepys, we should 
 miss a valuable sidelight upon Evelyn himself. It is plain that if he had con- 
 descended to " enliven his Character," — as Steele once said, — he might have 
 done so without difficulty. 
 
 IV 
 
 Pepys' Diary finishes on the 31st May, 1669 ; and his last reference to 
 Evelyn comes at the end of the preceding March. 6 Between May, 1665, when 
 he first mentions him, and May, 1669, History had been busily making itself. 
 It was the period of the second Dutch War, — of the Plague and Fire, — of the 
 fall of Clarendon, — of the negotiations for that discreditable Treaty of Dover 
 
 1 Even Pepys — it may be noted — though not by any means a Cato, drew the line at 
 the " profane and abominable lives " of the Caroline Court. 
 
 2 29th April, 1666. 3 See pp. 384, 400. 
 
 4 She " managed after all" — says the King's latest and best biographer — " to rise so 
 far above her sisters as to leave her virtue an open question, and to become, as Duchess 
 of Richmond, an ' honest woman ' " (Airy's Charles II., 1904, p. 194). 
 
 5 Evelyn's earliest mention of Pepys comes under 10th June, 1669. On the 19th February, 
 1671, he speaks of him as "an extraordinary ingenious, and knowing person." But the 
 chief allusions to him are later. He visits him in the Tower, 4th June, 1679 : on I S t h 
 September, 1685, he goes with him to Portsmouth ; on the 2nd October following, Pepys 
 shows him proof of Charles being a Catholic. In July, 1689, he sits to Kneller for his 
 portrait at Pepys' request ; on the 24th June, 1690, he dines with him before his committal 
 to the Gatehouse. Under 23rd September, 1700, is a record of his visiting Pepys at 
 " Paradisian Clapham " ; and there is a laudatory entry about Pepys' death on 26th May, 
 1703, not long before Evelyn's own decease. Several interesting letters from Evelyn are 
 included in the Pepys Correspondence. The last, dated as late as 20th January, 1703, 
 gives a pleasant account of Evelyn's grandson and heir, and records his own impressions of 
 Clarendon's Histoiy of the Rebellion, which he has just received from the author's son. 
 
INTRODUCTION xxix 
 
 which made Charles the pensioner of France. Most of these things leave 
 their mark in Evelyn's chronicle, and the Dutch war, in particular, kept him 
 continuously occupied in duties which even the Plague could not interrupt, — a 
 fact fully acknowledged both by the King and the Duke of York. 1 After the 
 Fire he promptly presented His Majesty with a plan for rebuilding the cityY 
 and he seems also to have been the first to suggest that the "monstrousy<?/z'<?" 
 of Lieuwe van Aitzema on the war, 2 then in progress at the Hague, should be 
 confuted by some competent English historian, — a suggestion which, perhaps 
 not unnaturally, recoiled upon himself. 3 In 1670 he was actively at work upon 
 this task, by the King's command. In August of the next year the " Preface" 
 was despatched to the Lord Treasurer, and Evelyn says further that what he 
 has written of the book itself will make, at the least, eight hundred or a thousand 
 folio pages. 4 Nothing but the " Preface," however, saw the light. This was 
 issued rather tardily in 1674, with the title Navigation a?id Commerce, their 
 Original and Progress. Unluckily, the Treaty of Breda, which it should have 
 preceded, had just been concluded, and the book was suppressed at the instance 
 of the Dutch Ambassador, 5 who protested against what had been said concern- 
 ing the Flags and Fishery. According to Evelyn, the offending passages were 
 really but a milder version of what the King had himself supplied. The rest 
 of the book, which was afterwards lent in MS. to Pepys, probably in connec- 
 tion with his projected Navaliaf was never reclaimed by Evelyn ; and Bray 
 sought for it fruitlessly among the Pepysian Collection at Cambridge. 7 It is 
 now held to be lost. There is always a temptation to overestimate the im- 
 portance of the unborn in literature ; but Evelyn's absolute honesty, his 
 patriotism, his intimate knowledge of the facts, not less than his literary 
 ability, certainly justify some regret that his History of the Dutch War never 
 came to be included among his published works. 
 
 From 1670 to 1674, the History of the Dutch War must have engrossed 
 Evelyn's best energies. But between 1670 and the earlier publication of 
 Sylva had appeared a few minor efforts which require brief notice. One 
 was the translation entitled the Mystery of fesuitism, referred to at pp. 234-5, 
 a copy of which, presented to the Master of the Revels, Sir Henry Herbert, 
 is to be found in the British Museum, and is possibly the identical volume 
 which the King carried for two days in his pocket. 8 Another was a Preface 
 to the English Vineyard Vindicated of the King's Gardener, John Rose, 1666. 
 More memorable than either of these is the tract entitled Publick Employment 
 and an Active Life . . Preferred to Solitude, 1667, an answer to " a moral Essay " 
 taking the opposite view by a Scotch Advocate, Sir George Mackenzie of Rose- 
 haugh. 9 It is at first sight strange to find Evelyn, with his love for " solitudes " 
 
 1 p. 242. 2 Sakenvan Staet en Oorlogh, 1669-72. 3 P. 265. 
 
 4 Letters to Sir Thomas Clifford (Lord High Treasurer), 20th January, 1670, and 31st 
 
 August, 1671. 
 
 5 That is, it was formally suppressed, a course which ' ' turned much to the advantage 
 
 of Benjamin Tooke, the stationer, who sold it freely sub rosa (p. 295). Pepys, it may 
 here be noted, upon the recommendation of Mr. Coventry, had meditated a " History of 
 the late Dutch War"— i.e. the first (1651-54). It "sorts mightily with my genius," he 
 writes on 13th June, 1664 ; "and, if done well, may recommend me much." 
 
 6 P. 456. 
 
 7 Letter to Samuel Pepys, 6th December, 168 1 ; Evelyn's Memoirs, by Bray, 1827, 
 
 i.,xxv. 8 P. 235. 9 P. 254. 
 
xxx THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 and " retirements," on what is apparently the wrong side in the argument. 
 But the discussion is frankly academic, and the "war" — as he says in his 
 " Preface " — "innocent." " I conjure you " — he writes to Cowley — " to believe 
 that I am still of the same mind, and there is no person alive who does more 
 honour and breathe after the life and repose you so happily cultivate and 
 adorn by your example." 1 Sir Roger de Coverley's decision that much may 
 be said on both sides would probably have sufficed ; but Horace Walpole, 
 always sympathetic to Evelyn, puts the matter in a nutshell : — " He [Evelyn] 
 knew that retirement in his own hands was industry and benefit to mankind ; 
 but in those of others, laziness and inutility." 2 After the Essay on Solitude 
 the only works which preceded the Dutch War were a preface to a fresh transla- 
 tion of Freart on the Perfection of Painting, 1668, 3 and an honest attempt to 
 expose fraud — the History of the Three late Famous Impostors, Padre Ottomano, 
 Mahomed Bei, and Sabatai Sevi — the last being a pretended Messiah. 4 
 
 The History of the Impostors belongs to 1669 ; and for literary purposes 
 the next four years, as already stated, were absorbed by the chronicle of the 
 Dutch War. In the ten years which intervened between the issue of Naviga- 
 tion and Commerce and the death of Charles in 1685, Evelyn published nothing 
 but Terra, a "philosophical discourse" treating of the earth in relation to 
 vegetation and planting, which he had read before the Royal Society in April, 
 1675. 5 The story of his life, as revealed by his records, may therefore be 
 resumed without interruption. In 1667 he was consulted, mainly on account 
 of his Fumifugium, as to some substitute for the lack of fuel then being 
 seriously felt ; 6 and in the same year he was allied with a certain projecting 
 Sir John Kiviet, a Duchman, in a scheme for facing the Thames, from the 
 Temple to the Tower, with clinker bricks, a collaboration by which (according 
 to Pepys) he lost ^5oo. 7 In 1667 also he managed to induce Mr. Henry 
 Howard (afterwards Duke of Norfolk) to transfer the famous Marmora 
 Arundelia7ia collected by his grandfather, the old Earl of Arundel, to the 
 University of Oxford, 8 having previously persuaded the same nobleman, who 
 had " little inclination to books," to present the bulk of the Arundel Library 
 to the Royal Society. 9 In February 1671 the King made him a member of 
 the Council of Foreign Plantations, 10 with a salary — " to encourage him " — of 
 ^500 a year. This Council, afterwards amalgamated with that of Trade, 11 and 
 having John Locke for its Secretary, became the nucleus of the existing and 
 heterogeneous Board of Trade. 12 It held its first meetings in the Earl of 
 Bristol's house in Queen's Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. 13 Buckingham, Arlington, 
 Lauderdale, Carteret, with many other notable names, figured among its 
 early members, and its first President was Sandwich. Evelyn seems to have 
 highly valued this appointment, which he thoroughly deserved, and for the 
 duties of which he was probably far better equipped than most of his colleagues. 
 
 1 Letter to Abraham Cowley, 12th March, 1667 (Appendix VI.). 
 
 2 Catalogue of Engravers, 1763, p. jj. 8 P. 263. 4 Pp. 263, 265. 
 
 5 P. 299. See, for some account of papers read by Evelyn to the Royal Society, 
 Prof. A. H. Church's The Royal Society Archives : Classified Papers of the Period 1606- 
 7/ (1907). Also, Pepys' Diary, 1st March, 1665. 6 P. 257. 
 
 7 Pp. 254, 259 ; and Pepys, under 23rd September, 1668. 8 P. 259. 
 
 9 P. 253. 10 P. 275. n P. 289. 
 
 12 At present located in Whitehall Gardens. It may be noted it was at first proposed 
 that a Council Chamber should be built in this very neighbourhood, in order that the King 
 might be present at the debates (p. 278). 13 P. 277. 
 
INTRODUCTION . xxxi 
 
 In the following year he was made Secretary to the Royal Society ; but that 
 post he only held for a twelvemonth. 1 Another of his functions at this date 
 was that of Younger Brother of the Trinity House. 2 
 
 Evelyn's dislike to the "buffoons and ladies of pleasure" 3 (the words are 
 his own), who formed so large a part of the Court personnel, has been 
 sufficiently disclosed in his conversations with Pepys. For such men as 
 Clarendon and Clifford, and Sandwich and Ossory, he always retained a 
 respect which, in the case of the first two, did not blind him to the defects of 
 their qualities. But very few of the other sex appear to have obtained or 
 deserved his admiration. The conspicuous exception is the beautiful Margaret 
 Blagge, the youngest daughter of Colonel Thomas Blagge of Horningsherth,/ 
 and afterwards the wife of Sidney Godolphin. She is first mentioned in the] 
 Diary in 1669 as " thatfexcellent creature Mrs. Blagge," 4 being then Maid 01 
 Honour to Clarendon's daughter, the Duchess of York ; and thenceforth she 
 reappears at intervals in Evelyn's pages. Speaking in July, 1672, of an 
 entertainment he gave to the Maids of Honour, he mentions among them 
 especially " one I infinitely esteemed for her many and extraordinary virtues." 6 
 At this date Anne Hyde was dead, and " Mrs." or Miss Blagge had passed to 
 the service of Catherine of Braganza. Shortly afterwards she quitted the 
 Court altogether, returning to it only on one occasion, at the express com- 
 mand of the King and his brother, to take the appropriate part of Diana in 
 "little starched Johnny Crowne's" masque of Calisto ; or^ the Chaste Nymph* 
 But even six years in that "perilous Climate" had left her native piety 
 unscathed. She was essentially a "schone See/e" instinctively pure and good ; 
 and, in spite of her beauty and intellectual gifts, which were considerable, 
 succeeded in preserving both her goodness and her purity. Arethusa-like, 
 says Evelyn, she " passed through all those turbulent waters without so much 
 as the least stain or tincture in her crystal." 7 
 
 Absorbed in his books and his garden, and quitting his retreat only upon 
 compulsion, Evelyn had not at first sufficiently appreciated the rare character 
 who sometimes came to Sayes Court with Mrs. Howard. But by July, 1672, — 
 as we have seen — he had grown thoroughly alive to the beauty and intellectual 
 charm of his young visitor ; and in October of the same year — partly in jest 
 and partly in earnest — they entered, notwithstanding the disparity in their 
 ages, upon an "inviolable friendship." To Evelyn, from this time, Margaret 
 Blagge became an adopted child, to be advised and served " in all her secular 
 and no few spiritual affairs and concerns " to the best of his ability ; whilst she, 
 on her part, repaid him with an attachment "so transcendently sincere, noble, 
 and religious," as to exceed, " in all its dimensions," anything he had hitherto 
 conceived. These are mainly his own words, which should be consulted with 
 their context in the posthumous account he wrote of her. In this place her 
 story can only be briefly pursued. . On her retirement from Court, which must 
 have happened not long after the date last mentioned, she found an asylum 
 with her friend Lady Berkeley of Stratton, at Berkeley House in Piccadilly, 
 later the refuge of the Princess Anne. In May, 1675, she was married to 
 
 1 P. 289. 2 P. 290. 3 P. 258. 4 P. 266. 5 P. 287. 
 
 6 It is characteristic of the times that even the Chastity of that Court of Comus had to 
 bedizen herself with ^£20,000 worth of borrowed jewelry, some of which, being lost in the 
 crowd, had to be made good by the Duke of York (p. 297). 
 
 7 Life of Mrs. Godolphin, " King's Classics" reprint, 1904, p. 7. 
 
xxxu THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Godolphin, then Groom of the Bedchamber to the King, 1 " the person in the 
 world who knew her best, and most she loved." For obscure reasons, probably 
 imposed upon her by her husband, the marriage for a time was kept secret, 
 even from Evelyn; and in the following November 2 she accompanied the 
 Berkeleys to Paris, Lord Berkeley being Ambassador Extraordinary and 
 Plenipotentiary for the Peace of Nimeguen. 3 Another of the party was Evelyn's 
 son John, a youth of twenty, to whom, in virtue of her two years' seniority, she 
 stood in the light of " Governess," — his " pretty, pious, pearly Governess " the 
 young man calls her to his father. She returned to England in April, 1676. 
 Dispersed entries in the Diary afterwards show Evelyn amiably active in 
 various ways for the benefit of the newly-married pair; and then, in 1678, 4 
 follows the long, sad record which tells of the young wife's premature death in 
 childbirth. At Godolphin's request, Evelyn took charge of her little son ; and 
 among the papers which, at Evelyn's death, were found marked "Things I 
 would write out fair and reform if I had leisure," was a lengthy account of her 
 life. That its author would have compressed it in the transcription is unlikely ; 
 and that he did not " write it out fair " is perhaps to its advantage, for it is 
 already somewhat diffuse. But it is a thoroughly earnest and sympathetic 
 account of a good woman in bad times, besides being an instructive homily on 
 the text : " Even in a palace, life may be led well." Through that tainted White- 
 hall atmosphere the " sinless faith" of Margaret Blagge shines serenely, — 
 
 A maiden moon that sparkles on a sty, 
 Glorifying clown and satyr ; 
 
 and it was not the least of her merits, both in the eyes of her affectionate 
 biographer and her episcopal editor, that she was "a true daughter of the 
 Church of England." 5 
 
 V 
 
 In 1676, Evelyn had entered his fifty-seventh year. Henceforth his record, 
 though by no means deficient in general interest, grows gradually briefer in 
 style, and less fruitful in personal details. At this date four only of his eight 
 children were alive, three daughters and a son. The son, already referred to 
 as visiting Paris with the Berkeleys, was married in February, 1680, to Miss 
 Martha Spencer. 6 Three years afterwards died Evelyn's father-in-law, Sir 
 Richard Browne, who had apparently resided at Sayes Court since his arrival 
 from Paris in 1660. 7 In 1685, when Charles II. disappeared from the scene, 
 death was again busy in the Evelyn family. Two of the daughters, Mary and 
 Elizabeth, succumbed to small-pox. 8 Elizabeth, the younger of the two, had 
 been married but a short time previously to a nephew of one of the Commis- 
 sioners of the Navy, Sir John Tippett. Mary, who was unmarried, and to 
 whose memory her father devotes a heart-broken entry, seems to have 
 been entirely of the Mrs. Godolphin type, without the court experience ; 
 
 1 P. 299. 2 P. 3°3- 3 p - 302. 4 Pp. 314-15- 
 
 5 Evelyn's Life of Margaret Godolphin, first published by Bishop Wilberforce in 1847 
 from the MS. in the possession of the author's great-great-grandson, the Archbishop of 
 York, has now been made generally accessible by a neat and inexpensive reprint in 
 Professor Gollancz's " King's Classics" series. 
 
 6 P. 324. 7 Pp- 204, 343. 8 Pp. 367, 378. 
 
INTRODUCTION xxxni 
 
 and also to have possessed that precocity of gift which distinguished her 
 brother Richard. Something of her literary ability is revealed in the tract 
 entitled A Fundus Mutiebris} which her father published five years later with 
 notes of his own and probably a " Preface," 2 and which exhibits not only a 
 creditable proficiency in pre-Swiftian octosyllabics, but a faculty for stock- 
 taking in chiffons that would have done credit to a milliner. Mary Evelyn's 
 death left her father but one daughter, Susanna, afterwards married to John 
 Draper of Addiscombe in Surrey. 3 She was soon to be the only surviving 
 child, for her brother John died in 1699, leaving a son — another John — to 
 become Evelyn's heir. 
 
 With the accession of the Duke of York as James the Second, came to 
 Evelyn what was perhaps his crowning distinction. In December, 1685, 
 during the absence of the second Earl of Clarendon as Lord-Lieutenant of 
 Ireland, the office of Privy Seal was put into commission, and Evelyn was 
 appointed one of the three Commissioners, 4 two being a quorum. This was 
 an honour not without its drawbacks, as the new King was anxious to do a 
 good many things which Evelyn could by no means regard as compatible 
 either with the fitness of things or the welfare of his beloved Church of Eng- 
 land. He could not, for instance, have been enthusiastic about making 
 Catherine Sedley Countess of Dorchester ; 5 and he was not ill pleased that 
 his colleagues proceeded without him. Once — he does not say upon what 
 matter — he deliberately absented himself ; ° and on another occasion, when it 
 was a question of allowing the printing of Missals, Offices, Lives of Saints, 
 and so forth, he refused to agree, and the licence was laid by." He took the 
 same course, with Sancroft's concurrence, in the case of an application by the 
 apostate Obadiah Walker as to the publication of Popish books. On the 
 whole, important as the office was, he must have felt relieved when, at 
 Clarendon's return, his duties came to an end, though the King transferred 
 the seal to a zealous Roman Catholic, Lord Arundel of Wardour. 8 But if his 
 
 1 P. 369- 
 
 2 From which, as it shows Evelyn in the always attractive role of a laudator temporis 
 
 acti, and also gives an example of his lighter manner, the following may be quoted : — 
 ' ' They [our forefathers] had cupboards of ancient useful plate, whole chests of damask for 
 the table, and store of fine Holland sheets (white as the driven snow), and fragrant of 
 rose and lavender, for the bed ; and the sturdy oaken bedstead, and furniture of the house, 
 lasted one whole century ; the shovel-board and other long tables, both in hall and parlour, 
 were as fixed as the freehold ; nothing was moveable save joynt-stools, the black-jacks, 
 silver tankards, and bowls : and though many things fell out between the cup and the lip, 
 when happy [? nappy] ale, March beer, metheglin, malmesey, and old sherry, got the 
 ascendant among the blew-coats and badges, they sung Old Symon and Cheviot-Chase, and 
 dane'd Brave Arthur, and were able to draw a bow that made the proud Monsieur tremble 
 at the whizze of the grey-goose -feather. 'Twas then ancient hospitality was kept up in 
 town and country, by which the tenants were enabled to pay their landlords at punctual 
 day ; the poor were relieved bountifully, and charity was as warm as the kitchen, where 
 the fire was perpetual. In those happy days, Sure-foot, the grave and steady mare, carried 
 the good knight, and his courteous lady behind him, to church and to visit the neighbour- 
 hood, without so many hell-carts, ratling coaches, and a crue of lacqueys, which a grave 
 livery servant or two supply'd, who rid before and made way for his worship." (Preface 
 to Mundus Aftiliebris, 'Even's Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 700-1.) 
 9 P. 431. 4 Pp. 378, 388. 5 P. 387 
 
 " P. 389. 7 P. 389 H P « 395 
 
xxxiv THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Commissionership had been a source of anxiety to him, he was certainly 
 indebted to King James for the solution of another difficulty, which, under 
 that monarch's predecessor, he had vainly endeavoured to set right. " For 
 many years" he had "been persecuted for" sums overdrawn by his father-in- 
 law during his residence in France. J3y the good offices of Godolphin, now a 
 Commissioner of the Treasury, an expensive Chancery suit, of which these had 
 become the subject, was determined ; and, in June, 1687, ne was granted a 
 Seal for /6000 in discharge of the debt. 1 This was apparently rather less 
 than half his deserts as Browne's executor ; but half in those days was much, 
 especially when it included the winding-up of legal proceedings. He was still, 
 however, in the following year, petitioning for overdue allowances in con- 
 nection with his care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch War. 2 
 
 In 1 69 1 George Evelyn, the proprietor of Wotton, lost his only remaining 
 son ; and after the marriage of Susanna Evelyn above related, he invited his 
 brother John, now heir to the estate, to occupy apartments in the Surrey home. 
 To Wotton accordingly, in May, 1694, after forty years' residence at Deptford, 
 Evelyn retired to spend the close of his life. A letter to Dr. Bohun, two years 
 later, gives a pleasant picture of that quiet eventide. He has " so little con- 
 versation with the learned," he writes, " that without books and the best Wife 
 and Bro. in the world" he were to be pitied ; " but [he goes on] with these 
 subsidiaries, and the revising some of my old impertinences, to which I am 
 adding a Discourse I made on Medals (lying by me long before Obadiah 
 Walker's Treatise appeared), 3 I pass some of my Attic nights, if I may be so 
 vain as to name them with the author of those Criticisms. For the rest, I am 
 planting an ever-green grove here to an old house ready to drop, the economy 
 and hospitality of which my good old Brother will not depart from, but mo7'e 
 veteruin kept a Christmas [1696] in which we had not fewer than three hundred 
 bumpkins every holy-day. We have here a very convenient apartment of five 
 rooms together, besides a pretty closet, which we have furnished with the 
 spoils of Sayes Court, and is the raree-show of the whole neighbourhood, and 
 in truth we live easy as to all domestic cares. Wednesday and Saturday 
 nights we call Lecture Nights, when my Wife and myself take our turns to 
 read the packets of all the news sent constantly from London, which serves us 
 for discourse till fresh news comes ; and so you have the history of an old 
 man and his no young companion, whose society I have enjoyed more to my 
 satisfaction these three years here, than in almost fifty before, but am now 
 every day trussing up to be gone, I hope to a better place." 4 
 
 1 P. 398. 3 Pp. 400, 402. 
 
 :{ Walker's Greek and Roman History, illustrated by Coins and Medals, etc. , 2 Pts. , 
 1692. 
 
 4 Letter to Dr. Bohun, 18th January, 1697. This is a winter picture. A letter to 
 Pepys, three years later, is dated in July. " You will now enquire what I do here? Why, 
 as the patriarchs of old, I pass the day in the fields, among horses and oxen, sheep, 
 cows, bulls, and sows, et cetera pecus campi. We have, thank God ! finished our hay 
 harvest prosperously. I am looking after my hinds, providing carriage and tackle against 
 reaping time and sowing. What shall I say more? Venio ad voluptates agricolarum, 
 which Cicero, you know, reckons among the most becoming diversions of old age, and so 
 I render it. This without : — now within doors, never was any matron more busy than my 
 wife, disposing of our plain country furniture for a naked old extravagant house, suitable 
 to our employments. She has a dairy, and distaffs, for lac, linnm, ct lanam, and is 
 become a very Sabine." Rut he is old (eighty), and has been ill. 
 
INTRODUCTION XXXV 
 
 Sayes Court, which seems at first to have been intended as a summer 
 residence for Susanna Evelyn and her husband, was eventually let to another 
 Deptford resident, Admiral (then Captain) John Benbow. " I have let my 
 house to Capt. Benbow,'' says the letter just quoted, " and have the mortifica- 
 tion of seeing every day much of my former labours and expense there 
 impairing for want of a more polite tenant." But this was not all. When 
 King William's favourite, 1 Peter the Great, came to Deptford to learn ship- 
 building, Benbow sublet Sayes Court to him, with disastrous results. " There 
 is a house full of people," wrote one of Evelyn's servants to Wotton, " and right 
 nasty. The Czar lies next your library, and dines in the parlour next your 
 study. He dines at 10 o'clock and 6 at night, is very seldom at home a whole 
 day, very often in the King's Yard, or by water, dressed in several dresses. 
 The King is expected here this day, the best parlour is pretty clean for him to 
 be entertained in. The King pays for all he has." 2 Not content with 
 wantonly damaging the grass- work and fruit-trees, and beating the bowling- 
 green into holes, one of Czar Peter's favourite morning exercises was to cause 
 himself to be trundled on a wheelbarrow through Evelyn's famous five-foot 
 holly hedge, long the crowning glory of the Deptford grounds. When lnter 
 Sir Christopher Wren, and London, the King's gardener, at the request of the 
 Treasury, proceeded to report upon the exploits of this barbaric humorist, they 
 found that Evelyn had suffered to the extent of ^162 : 7s., and Benbow, 
 ^158 : 2 : 6. Unhappily, much that had been done could never be undone ; 
 and Evelyn later speaks sadly in Sylva of " my now ruined garden, thanks to 
 the Czar of Muscovy." 3 
 
 Little more remains to be related of Evelyn's life. In October, 1699, his 
 "good old Brother" died, and he became the possessor of Wotton, together 
 with its library and family pictures. In May of the following year he trans- 
 ferred to it the remainder of his Sayes Court belongings. 4 Besides the books 
 already specified, he had published a translation of the Compleat Gardener of 
 La Quintinye, 1693, an d Numismata, 1697, being the " Discourse on Medals" 
 mentioned in his letter to Dr. Bohun. 5 Two years later came his final work, 
 Acetaria, a chapter " of sallets " from the Elysium Britannicum? During his 
 last years one of his chief interests was the transformation of Charles the 
 Second's unfinished palace at Greenwich into a hospital for worn-out seamen, 
 a long-projected enterprise upon which William the Third embarked definitely 
 
 1 "The Czar is highly caressed by the King" (Sir George Fletcher to Sir Daniel 
 Fleming, 1 8th January, 1698, Hist. MSS. Com at. 12th Rept. , 1890, App. Pt. vii. p. 349). 
 
 2 Memoirs of John Evelyn, etc., 1827, iii. 364. 
 
 3 Sylva, 1706, i. p. 265. 
 
 4 P. 451. Sayes Court, never again to be occupied by any member of the family, 
 deserves a parting word. In March, 1701 (p. 453), it was let to Lord Carmarthen, the 
 son of the Duke of Leeds. Fifty-eight years later it passed to the Vestry of St. Nicholas, 
 Deptford, on a sixty-one years' lease as a workhouse. In 1820 the lease was renewed for 
 a similar term with power to pull down or alter. Before this second lease had expired, 
 the erection of a workhouse at East Greenwich enabled the Vestry to surrender the pre- 
 mises to the present representative of the family, Mr. W. J. Evelyn. Much transformed, 
 it was first used for emigration purposes. Then what remained was turned into the 
 " Evelyn Almshouses, Sayes Court," by Mr. Evelyn, who later added, on parts of the old 
 estate, a Museum and Recreation Ground (Dews' Deptford, 2nd edition, 1884, pp. 36-40) 
 " Sayes St." and " Evelyn St." also preserve the memory of the Diarist. 
 
 3 Ante, p. xxxiv. 6 P. 448- 
 
*xxvi THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 after Queen Mary's death. In February, 1695, 1 Godolphin offered Evelyn the 
 Treasurership ; and in June, 1696, he laid the foundation in that capacity of 
 Wren's additions.- He lived to see the Hospital opened in January, 1705. In 
 1702 he had been elected a member of the then lately incorporated Society 
 for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. 3 ' On the 27th February, 
 1706, being in his eighty-sixth year, and having outlived many of his most 
 valued friends, he died, after a short illness, and was buried in the dormitory 
 of Wotton Church. Upon his tombstone, in addition to the words quoted in 
 the opening lines of this " Introduction," was recorded, by his own desire, his 
 conviction " That all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no solid 
 wisdom but in real Piety." 
 
 On the 9th of February, 1709, Mary Evelyn died, and was buried near her 
 husband. She does not figure very frequently in his Diary, but for nearly 
 fifty-nine years she was his devoted helpmate. Considerably younger than 
 Evelyn, she remained to the last " his grateful and docile pupil." From the 
 outset she had been carefully educated. She was an accomplished amateur 
 artist ; she spoke French exactly, and understood Italian ; she wrote letters 
 in excellent English ; and although — as one having " the care of cakes and 
 stilling, and sweetmeats and such useful things" — she only professed to 
 "judge unrefinedly," she had no little critical power, and was an acute and 
 even caustic student of character. 4 Warmly attached to her friends, and ex- 
 tremely hospitable, her real inclinations were, nevertheless, for quiet and 
 seclusion. Of the duties and province of her sex she took what would now be 
 regarded as a needlessly modest estimate. "Women," she wrote, "were not 
 born to read authors, and censure the learned, to compare lives and judge of 
 virtues, to give rules of morality, and sacrifice to the Muses. We are willing 
 to acknowledge all time borrowed from family duties is misspent ; the care of 
 children's education, observing a husband's commands, assisting the sick, 
 relieving the poor, and being serviceable to our friends, are of sufficient weight 
 to employ the most improved capacities among us." Such a deliverance 
 would have delighted Dr. Primrose of Wakefield ! It delighted Dr. Bohun, 
 her friend and her son's tutor, from a letter to whom it is extracted. 5 In 1695 
 he composed a lengthy "Character" of her, in which he dwells admiringly 
 upon her good sense and her accomplishments, and her merits as a wife and 
 mother. 6 The one abiding grief of her ordered and placid life was the loss of 
 so many of her children. 7 
 
 1 P. 436. ,J P. 442. 3 P. 455- 
 
 4 Cf. the somewhat censorious note upon Lamb's " dear Margaret Newcastle," p. 255. 
 
 5 Memoirs of John Evelyn, 1827, iv. 434. 6 Ibid. iv. pp. 423-29. 
 
 7 Abraham Cowley, in the Ode from which quotation has already been made at 
 pp. xxii-xxiii 71., does not omit his tribute to the chatelaine of Sayes Court : — 
 
 In Books and Gardens thou hast plac'd aright 
 (Things wch thou well dost understand, 
 And both dost make wth thy laborious hand) 
 Thy noble, innocent delight : 
 And in thy virtuous Wife, where thou again dost meet 
 Both pleasures more re/in'd and sivect ; 
 The fairest garden in her looks, 
 And in her mind the wisest boohs. 
 Oh who would change these soft, yet solid joys, 
 For empty shows and senceless noise, 
 And all wd> rank Ambition breed 1 --, 
 W<-li seem such beauteous flowers, and are such poisonous weeds. 
 
INTRO D UCTION xxxvii 
 
 For Evelyn himself, his leading traits have already been outlined at the 
 beginning of this " Introduction " ; and they have also been exemplified during 
 its progress. On one or two points, nevertheless, it may be useful to linger 
 for a moment. Lord Beaconsfield's Cardinal in Lothair? laying stress upon 
 the fact that Evelyn's character "in every respect approached perfection," 
 adds — apparently as an afterthought—" He was also a most religious man." 
 A most religious man in the best sense he unquestionably was, without the 
 testimony of his tombstone, or the certificate of Cardinal Grandison. It is 
 written plainly in every page of his Diary, in its gravity, its reticence, its 
 silences even ; — in its absence, during a profane and scandalous age, of all 
 scandal and profanity ; — in its regard for public worship and its reverence for 
 the holy communion. Especially is it manifest when the writer's habitual 
 reserve breaks down under the influence of grief or bereavement, or in the 
 expression of thankfulness to God for the preservation of his life or health, or 
 the life or health of those dear to him. And he gave practical proof of the 
 sincerity of his convictions by the tenacity with which, during the Common- 
 wealth and Protectorate, he clung to the ritual and traditions of a Church, 
 which, as he truly says, seemed "breathing her last." He was only — if you 
 will — a " passive resister," but he was a consistent passive resister. And this 
 brings us to another matter. It is often the misforttinle^oi caution to be mis- 
 taken for cowardice ; and it is not perhaps always easy to. repress a rising 
 regret that a man so uniformly estimable should not sometimes havejbeen a 
 little more demonstrative and a little less prudent. But this is surely to rrtis- 
 take the quality of real bravery. To be flamberge au vent on the slightest 
 provocation, like Sir John Reresby, or to have killed his man, like Sir 
 Kenelm Digby, would have been impossible to one like Evelyn, whose prin- 
 ciples were wholly averse from duelling, and whose creed was " defence, not 
 defiance." iWith all seventeenth -century gentlemen he had learned the use of 
 arms (he could fence like Milton, or ride the "managed" horse like His Grace 
 of Newcastle), and no doubt would have borne himself manfully, if need were, 
 at Edgehill or Brentford ; but, as may be gathered from his comments upon 
 Albemarle and Sandwich, 2 he deprecated that headlong and dare-devil 
 gallantry of his day which knew neither forethought nor reason. As for 
 moral courage, he had no lack of it ; witness his untiring exertions for 
 the sick-and-wounded during all the terrible time of the Plague and Fire ; 
 and his steady determination, as a Commissioner of the Privy Seal, to follow, 
 not the illegal ruling of His Majesty King James, but the dictates of his own 
 conscience. 
 
 It is generally said that he was a bookish recluse and man of peace, seek- 
 ing above all things to " possess his soul in quiet," and this was certainly what 
 he professed to be. But even this, in the light of his biography, needs some 
 qualification. As a matter of fact, his mind was too active, his interest in 
 contemporary politics too keen, his devotion to his friends too great, 3 to allow 
 him to adhere strictly to his programme ; 4 and it is even conceivable that, in 
 
 1 Chapter xvii. 2 P. 286. 
 
 3 For fifteen months, at the instance of Godolphin, he undertook the entire manage 
 ment of Lord Berkeley's affairs and estate during his absence as Ambassador in France, 
 an "intolerable servitude and correspondence" involving endless drudgery and loss of 
 time, for which he declined to accept any kind of acknowledgment (pp. 302, 307). 
 
 4 In 1679, for instance, he describes himself to Dr. Beale as "having for the last ten 
 
xxxvill THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 different conditions, and an environment more favourable to his theory of life, 
 he might have been a distinguished man of affairs. In ability he was fully 
 equal to the Cliffords and Arlingtons who rose so rapidly around him. But 
 intrigue and jsejfeeeking were foreign to his nature ; and he was obliged to do 
 the best he could in a bad time. He could not prevent the Dutch War or the 
 Treaty of Dover, but he could help to carry on the growing Royal Society and 
 lay the foundation of Greenwich Hospital. And it is unanswerable evidence 
 to the respect felt for hislmlaiiTng honesty and unselfish rectitude that, though 
 his position must often have been one of tacit rebuke to those about him, there 
 is apparently no indication that he ever provoked that ridicule which is usually 
 the tribute of the ribald to the righteous. He had been in the company of 
 both Buckingham and Rochester, yet — as far as we know — he was neither 
 libelled by the one nor mimicked by the other. Indeed, it is quite possible 
 that Charles himself (who had some good instincts) would not -have permitted 
 any one to make fun of his "old acquaintance," Mr. Evelyn, ks Southeysays, 
 he " had no enemy" ; and this in a time torn " by civil and religious factions." 
 I For his friends, if judgment is to go by their verdict, few men could empanel 
 such a jury of prelates and politicians, philosophers and poets. Sancroft and 
 Tillotson and Tenison, Browne and Jeremy Taylor, Ormonde and Ossory and 
 Godolphin, Boyle and Bentley, Cowley and Waller — these are some of the 
 most eminent names in an age not undistinguished in its notables. And they 
 would all no doubt have agreed that rMr. Evelyn of Deptford was not only a 
 man of marked accomplishment arm conspicuous integrity, but a model 
 husband and father, and an exemplary citizen, friend, and neighbour/^ 
 
 Of Evelyn's writings it is more difficult to speak ; and it woula be im- 
 practicable to discuss them adequately in this " Introduction." "His books," 
 says Sir Leslie Stephen roundly, " are for the most part occasional, and of 
 little permanent value." " Occasional " is not an indulgent adjective, though 
 it might be applied to a good deal that is of permanent value, — for instance, 
 the Hydriotaphia of Sir Thomas Browne, and the Siris of Bishop Berkeley. 
 Yet it is hard to traverse the verdict as a general proposition. Perhaps the 
 fairest thing would be to follow De Ouincey's classification, and say that the 
 [bulk of Evelyn's printed legacy belongs to the literature of knowledge rather 
 than the literature of power/] And the literature of knowledge has a knack of 
 growing obsolete unless it be preserved by the saving element of style. 
 Evelyn's style is not attractive, especially in his more ambitious published 
 efforts. This is not to say that it is impossible to select from them passages 
 which are both flexible and vivacious, 1 or passages which are vigorous, or 
 i passages where earnestness burns into eloquence. But, as a rule, he is 
 \encumbered by the intricacies of his method and the trappings of his erudi- 
 tion. He is over fond of long strings of names and the array of authorities ; 
 and he is not sufficiently on his guard against that temptation to say every- 
 thing which is the triumph of tediousness. Learned and sincere as he is 
 j undoubtedly, it must also be confessed that he is, not seldom, exceedingly 
 i wearisome to read. 
 
 Among what he classes as his " original works," — and his translations 
 require no further notice than they have already received, — his Sylva is the 
 
 years of my life been in perpetual motion, and hardly two months in the year at my own 
 habitation, or conversant with my family " (p. 477) 
 1 Cf. the picturesque quotation at p. xxxiii n, 1 
 
INTRODUCTION xxxi: 
 
 most important, and also the best known. As already stated, it was thoroughl 
 successful in its object, and in its author's lifetime was extremely popula: 
 After his death it received loving and elaborate illustration at the hands of D: 
 Hunter ; but to-day, notwithstanding that it contains much excellent " cor 
 fused feeding," we should imagine that it is but seldom consulted save by th 
 " retrospective reviewer " or the amateur of Forestry. Like the Kalendarim 
 Hortense, like the Acetaria, it was probably at first no more than a section < 
 that vast Elysium Britannicum, or " Cyclopaedia of Horticulture," which ii 
 projector never completed, and probably never would have completed excej 
 under the leisurely dispensation of Hilpa and Shalum. Even then it is to t 
 feared that he would have complacently continued to multiply subdivisions ( 
 his "fruitful and inexhaustible subject," and to inlay "apposite and agreeabl 
 illustrations," rather than make any perceptible progress in the direction ( 
 " Finis." In 1679 he had been at work at it for twenty years and it was n( 
 yet "fully digested" ; in 1699 another twenty years had slipped away, and hi 
 collection of material was said to amount to several thousand pages. Yet th 
 MSS. at Wotton, when Bray wrote, revealed no more than parts of tw 
 volumes of very dispersed observations, and a Syllabus of Contents. 1 Of tli 
 History of the Dutch War, the loss has already been regretted ; and it'woul 
 certainly have been interesting to read the account, which we know it coi 
 tained, of the sea-fight in Sole Bay.- But that loss could only be a serious on 
 upon the assumption that what has disappeared was entirely Evelyn's owi 
 Had the book been ever published, it would doubtless have represented, n( 
 its writer's patriotic and candid record of a struggle which he deplored, but 
 one-sided official narrative manipulated to suit the policy of Charles II., an 
 edited with that end by Arlington and Clifford,— which is another-guess matt* 
 altogether. As regards the remaining works, the coin-collector will no dout 
 sometimes consult Numismata, and the print-collector, Sculptura, — both < 
 which are full of adversaria and recondite knowledge. On the whole, howeve 
 it is not improbable that the most confessedly " occasional" of Evelyn's pe: 
 formances will most attract the modern student ; and that because, more b 
 their matter than their manner, they illustrate the past. Tyrannus an 
 Mundus Mulicbris throw light upon the vagaries of fashion and costume 
 A Character of England, upon social life and the topography of London. Th 
 historian will find something in the Apology for the Royal Party or it 
 News fi'om Brussels U?imasked ; and the political economist cannot negle< 
 Navigation and Commerce. 
 
 But all these things, to a greater or less extent, are covered by the pag< 
 now presented to the reader. fEvelyn's so-called Diary is not, it is tru 
 what is usually regarded as a psychological document, making intimate r< 
 velation, conscious or unconscious, of its writer's personality. On the contrar 
 although obviously never intended for publication, it is uniformly measure 
 and restrained, except in those heartfelt outbursts which serve to prove an 
 emphasize its private character. It has, however, claims of a different orde 
 Its long chronicle extends over an unbroken period of more than sixty year 
 dating from the stormy days which preceded the Commonwealth to the ear] 
 time of Oueen Anne. During all this age— "an age," as his epitaph puts i 
 " of extraordinary Events and Revolutions "—Evelyn was quietly, briefly, an 
 methodically noting what seemed to him worthy of remembrance. His desii 
 
 1 Pp. 478-9. 2 P. 238. 
 
xl 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 for knowledge was insatiable, his sympathies wide, and his tastes catholic 
 His position gave him access to many remarkable persons, in and out o 
 power ; and his report of such occurrences as came under his notice v. 
 scrupulously careful and straightforward. Touching at many points th< 
 multiform life of his epoch, and reflecting its varied characteristics with insigh 
 and moderation, his records have a specific value and importance which fairlj 
 entitle them to be regarded as unique. 
 
 AUSTIN DOBSON. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 1 
 
 I WAS born (at Wotton, in the County of 
 Surrey) about twenty minutes past two in 
 the morning, being on Tuesday the 31st and 
 last of October, 1620, after my father had 
 been married about seven years, 2 and that 
 my mother had borne him three children ; 
 viz. two daughters and one son, about the 
 33rd year of his age, and the 23rd of my 
 mother's. 
 
 My father, named Richard, was of a 
 sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash 
 of choler : his hair inclining to light, 
 which though exceeding thick, became 
 hoary by that time he had attained to 
 thirty years of age ; it was somewhat 
 curled towards the extremities ; his beard, 
 which he wore a little peaked, as the mode 
 was, of a brownish colour, and so continued 
 to the last, save that it was somewhat 
 mingled with grey hairs about his cheeks, 
 which, with his countenance, were clear 
 and fresh-coloured ; his eyes extraordinary 
 quick and piercing ; an ample forehead, — 
 in sum, a very well-composed visage and 
 manly aspect : for the rest, he was but low 
 of stature, yet very strong. He was, for 
 I his life, so exact and temperate, that I have 
 j heard he had never been surprised by 
 j excess, being ascetic and sparing. His 
 wisdom was great, and his judgment most 
 
 1 [This title of the previous Editors has been 
 retained, although, as explained in the " Preface " 
 to the present issue, Evelyn's records are more 
 properly " Memoirs."] 
 
 2 He was married at St. Thomas's Church, 
 Southwark, 27th January, 1613. My sister Eliza 
 was born at nine at night, 28th Novemi:>er, 1614 ; 
 Jane, at four in the morning, 16th February, 1616 ; 
 my brother George at nine at night, Wednesday, 
 18th June, 1617 ; and my brother Richard, 9th 
 November, 1622 {Note by Evelyn). 
 
 acute ; of solid discourse, affable, humble, 
 and in nothing affected ; of a thriving, 
 neat, silent, and methodical genius ; dis- 
 cretely severe, yet liberal upon all just 
 occasions, both to his children, to strangers, 
 and servants ; a lover of hospitality ; and, 
 in brief, of a singular and Christian modera- 
 tion in all his actions ; not illiterate, nor 
 obscure, as, having continued Justice of 
 the Peace and of the Quorum, he served 
 his country as High Sheriff, being, as I 
 take it, the last dignified with that office 
 for Sussex and Surrey together, the same 
 year, before their separation. 1 He was yet 
 a studious decliner of honours and titles ; 
 being already in that esteem with his 
 country, that they could have added little 
 to him besides their burden. 2 He was a 
 person of that rare conversation that, upon 
 frequent recollection, and calling to mind 
 passages of his life and discourse, I could 
 never charge him with the least passion or 
 inadvertency. His estate was esteemed 
 about ^4000 per annum, well wooded, and 
 full of timber. 
 
 My mother's name was Eleanor, 3 sole 
 daughter and heiress of John Standsfield, 
 
 1 Formerly the two counties had in general, 
 though not invariably, only one sheriff. In 1637, 
 each county had its sheriff, and so it has continued 
 since. 
 
 2 In proof of Evelyn's assertion may be quoted 
 an old receipt, found at Wotton : " R d , the 29 Oct r . 
 1630, of Rich" Evlinge of Wottone, in the Countye 
 of Surr' Esq ; by waie of composic'one to the use 
 of his Ma* ie , being apoynted by his Ma tie Collecto 1 " 
 for the same, for his Fine for not appearinge at the 
 tyme & place apoynted for receavinge order of 
 Kthood, the somme of fivetey pound I say re- 
 ceaved. Tho. Crymes." 
 
 3 She was born 17th November, 1598, near Lewes 
 in Sussex. 
 
 B 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1620 
 
 Esq. , of an ancient and honourable family 
 (though now extinct) in Shropshire, by his 
 wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and well- 
 known house in Sussex. She was of 
 proper personage ; of a brown complexion ; 
 her eyes and hair of a lovely black ; of 
 constitution more inclined to a religious 
 melancholy, or pious sadness ; of a rare 
 memory, and most exemplary life ; for 
 economy and prudence, esteemed one of 
 the most conspicuous in her country : 
 which rendered her loss much deplored, 
 both by those who knew, and such as only 
 heard of her. 
 
 Thus much, in brief, touching my 
 parents ; nor was it reasonable I should 
 speak less of them to whom I owe so 
 much. 
 
 The place of my birth was Wotton, in 
 the parish of Wotton, or Blackheath, in 
 the county of Surrey, the then mansion- 
 house of my father, left him by my grand- 
 father, 1 afterwards and now my eldest 
 brother's. 2 It is situated in the most 
 southern part of the shire ; 3 and, though 
 in a valley, yet really upon part of Leith 
 Hill, one of the most eminent in England 4 
 for the prodigious prospect to be seen from 
 its summit, though by few observed. From 
 it may be discerned twelve or thirteen 
 counties, with part of the sea on the coast 
 of Sussex, in a serene day. The house 5 is 
 large and ancient, suitable to those hospit- 
 able times, and so sweetly environed with 
 those delicious streams and venerable 
 woods, as in the judgment of strangers as 
 well as Englishmen it may be compared to 
 
 1 [George Evelyn, of Long-Ditton, d. 30th May, 
 1603, who had purchased it in 1579 from Henry 
 Owen.] 
 
 2 [George Evelyn, 1617-99.] 
 
 3 [The parish of Wotton (Wood-town ; Odeton 
 or Wodeton in Domesday Book) " is about nine 
 miles in extent, from north to south, but seldom 
 exceeds a mile in breadth, and is still narrower 
 towards the southern extremity. On the north, it 
 borders on Effingham ; on the east, on Dorking 
 and Ockley ; on the south, on Slinfold and Rudg- 
 wick, in Sussex ; and on the west., it joins Abinger " 
 (Brayley's History of Surrey, 1850, p. 17).] 
 
 4 [9 5 5 feet. It is the highest point in the county.] 
 
 5 [Wotton House — an irregular brick building — 
 has been added to at various times, but largely in 
 1864, when a muniment room, which also serves as 
 a library, was built (after the design of Mr. H. 
 Woodyer) on the site of the west wing, destroyed 
 by fire about 1800. Sketches by Evelyn, still 
 preserved, show its aspect in 1640, 1646, 1653, and 
 1704. The present owner is William John Evelyn, 
 Esq., J.P., D.L., b. 1822.] 
 
 one of the most pleasant seats in the 
 nation, and most tempting for a great 
 person and a wanton purse to render it 
 conspicuous. - It has rising grounds, J 
 meadows, wdbds, and water, in abundance. ' 
 
 The distance from London little more 
 than twenty miles, and yet so securely 
 placed, as if it were one hundred ; three 
 miles from Dorking, which serves it abun- 
 dantly with provision as well of land as 
 sea ; six from Guildford, twelve from 
 Kingston. 1 I will say nothing of the air, 
 because the pre-eminence is universally 
 given to Surrey, the soil being dry and 
 sandy ; but I should speak much of the 
 gardens, fountains, and groves that adorn 
 it, were they not as generally known to be 
 amongst the most natural, and (till ' this 
 later and universal luxury of the whole y 
 nation, since abounding in such expenses) \ 
 the most magnificent that England afforded; 
 and which indeed gave one of the first 
 examples to that elegancy, since so much 
 in vogue, and followed in the managing of 
 their waters, and other elegancies of that, 
 nature. Let me add, the contiguity of five 
 or six manors, 2 the patronage of the livings j 
 about it, and what 'Themistocles pro- 
 nounced for none of .the least advantages — 
 the good neighbourhood. 3 All which con- 
 spire here to render it an honourable and 
 handsome royalty, fit for the present pos- 
 sessor, my worthy brother, and his noble 
 lady, 4 whose constant liberality gives them 
 title both to the place and the" affections of 
 all that know them. Thus, with the poet : 
 
 Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine captos 
 Ducit, et immemores non sinit esse sui. 6 
 
 I had given me the name of my grand- 
 
 1 Eight, and fourteen ; and from London a little 
 more than twenty-six measured miles. ,, 
 
 2 Seven manors, two advowsons, and a chapel of 
 ease (Sir John Cotton's). 
 
 3 [" Having a piece of land he [Themistocles] 
 would sell, he willed the crier to proclaim open sale 
 of it in the market-place, and with all he should add 
 unto the sale, that his land lay by a good neigh- 
 bour" (North's Plutarch, Rouse's ed. 1898, ii. 29).] 
 
 4 Lady Cotton, a widow, whom Evelyn's elder 
 brother, George, took for his second wife, his first 
 wife having died in 1644 (see post, under nth April, 
 1640). After the former date, therefore, this 
 portion of Evelyn's " Kalendarium " must have 
 been written. See also post, under 8th August 
 1664. 
 
 5 [Ovid, Epist. ex Ponto, Bk. I. Ep. iii. 11. 35-36. 
 Evelyn gives the last word of the first line as 
 "cunctos."] 
 
1630] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 father, my mother's father, 1 who, together 
 with a sister of Sir Thomas Evelyn of 
 Long-Ditton, 2 and Mr. Comber, a near re- 
 lation of my mother, were my susceptors. 
 The solemnity (yet upon what accident I 
 know not, unless some indisposition in me) 
 was performed in the dining-room by Par- 
 son Higham, a the present incumbent of the 
 parish, according to the forms prescribed 
 by the^ hen glorious Church of England. 4 
 
 I was noW (in regard to my mother's 
 weakness, or rather custom of persons of 
 quality) put to nurse to one Peter, a neigh- 
 bour's wife and tenant, of a good, comely, 
 brown, wholesome complexion, and in a 
 most sweet place towards the hills, flanked 
 with wood and refreshed with streams ; the 
 affection to which kind of solitude I sucked 
 in with my very milk. It appears, by a 
 note of my father's, that I sucked till 17th 
 January, 1622 ; or at least I came not home 
 before. 5 
 
 1623. The very first thing that I can call 
 to memory, and from which time forward I 
 began to observe, was this year (1623) my 
 youngest brother 6 being in his nurse's arms, 
 who, being then two days and nine months 
 younger than myself, was the last child of 
 my dear parents. 
 
 1624. I was not initiated into any rudi- 
 ments until near four years of age, and then 
 one Frier taught us at the church-porch of 
 Wotton : 7 and I do perfectly remember 
 the great talk and stir about II Conde 
 Gondomar, now Ambassador from Spain 
 (for near about this time was the match of 
 our Prince with the Infanta proposed) ; and 
 
 1 [John Standsfield (see ante, p. 1).] 
 
 2 [Sir Thomas Evelyn, 1587 - 1669, Evelyn's 
 cousin. The sister here referred to was Rose 
 Evelyn, afterwards the wife of Thomas Keightley 
 of Staffordshire (see post, under 8th March, 1681).] 
 
 a [See post, under 21st August, 1653.] 
 4 I had^given me two handsome pieces of very 
 curiously wrought and gilt plate. — Evelyn. 
 
 , 5 This passage, and the paragraphs before and 
 after it, were printed for the first time in the edition 
 of 1850. A note in the edition of 1857 (p* 4) goes 
 on to say : " Portions of the preceding description 
 of Wotton are also first taken from the original ; 
 and it may not be out of place to add that, more 
 especially in the first fifty pages of this volume 
 [volume i. of 1857], a very large number of curious 
 and interesting additions are made to Evelyn's text 
 from the Manuscript of the Diary at Wotton." 
 
 6 [Richard Evelyn of Woodcote, d. 1670.] 
 
 7 [The church-porch at Wotton has now been 
 modernised ; but John Coney's sketch in the quarto 
 of 1818 shows the window of a small room over the 
 door. J 
 
 the effects of that comet, 16 18, still work- ' 
 ig in the prodigious revolutions now be- 
 inning in Europe, especially in Germany, 
 rtiose sad commotions sprang from the 
 Johemians' defection from the Emperor 
 [atthias : * upon which quarrel the Swedes 
 >roke in, giving umbrage to the rest of the 
 
 princes, and the whole Christian world 
 
 cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying 
 
 perfect tranquillity. 
 
 1625. I was this year (being the first of 
 the reign of King Charles) sent by my 
 father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be with my 
 grandfather, Standsfield, with whom I 
 passed my childhood. This was the year 
 in which the pestilence was so epidemical, 
 that there died in London 5000 a-week, 2 
 and I well remember the strict watches 
 and examinations upon the ways as we 
 passed ; and I was shortly after so danger- 
 ously sick of a fever, that (as I have heard) 
 the physicians despaired of me. 
 
 1626. My picture was drawn in oil by 
 one Chanterell, no ill painter. 
 
 1627.' My grandfather, Standsfield, died 
 this year, on the 5th of February : I re- 
 member perfectly the solemnity at his 
 funeral. He was buried in the parish 
 church of All Souls, where my grand- 
 mother, his second wife, 3 erected him a 
 pious monument. About this time, was 
 the consecration of the Church of South 
 Mailing, near Lewes, by Dr. Field, Bishop 
 of Oxford (one Mr. Coxhall preached, who 
 was afterwards minister) ; the building 
 whereof was chiefly procured by my grand- 
 father, who having the impropriation, gave 
 £20 a-year out of it to this church. I after- 
 wards sold the impropriation. I laid one of 
 the first stones at the building of the church. 
 
 1628-30. It was not till the year 1628, 
 
 1 Evelyn alludes to the insurrection of the Bo- 
 hemians on the 1 2th of May, 1618. The emperor 
 died soon after, and the revolted Bohemians offered 
 the crown to the Elector Palatine Frederic, who 
 had married Elizabeth, daughter of James 1. ; 
 whereupon there was great excitement throughout 
 England, in consequence of the backwardness of 
 the King to assist his son-in-law in the struggle for 
 a kingdom, for which the people willingly, as Evelyn 
 in a subsequent page informs us, made large con- 
 tributions." This is the " talk and stir*" to which 
 Evelyn has just alluded in connection with Count 
 Gondomar, whose influence had been' used with 
 James to withdraw him from the Protestant cause. 
 
 2 [More than 35,000 persons are said to have 
 perished of the plague in this year.] 
 
 3 [Eleanor Comber (see ante, p. 1).] 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1631 
 
 that I was put to learn my Latin rudi- 
 ments, and to write, of one Citolin, a 
 Frenchman, in Lewes. I very well re- 
 member that general muster previous to 
 the Isle of Rhe's expedition, and that I was 
 one day awakened in the morning with the 
 news of the Duke of Buckingham being 
 slain by that wretch, Felton, after our dis- 
 grace before La Rochelle. 1 And I now 
 took so extraordinary a fancy to drawing 
 and designing, that I could never after 
 wean my inclinations from it, to the expense 
 of much precious time, which might have 
 been more advantageously employed. I 
 was now put to school to one Mr. Potts, 
 in the Cliffe at Lewes, from whom, on the 
 7th of January, 1630, being the day after 
 Epiphany, I went to the free-school at 
 Southover, near the town, of which one 
 Agnes Morley had been the foundress, and 
 now Edward Snatt was the master, under 
 whom I remained till I was sent to the 
 University. 2 This year, my grandmother 
 (with whom I sojourned) being married to 
 one Mr. Newton, a learned and most re- 
 ligious gentleman, we went from the Cliffe 
 to dwell at his house in Southover. 3 I 
 do most perfectly remember the jubilee 
 which was universally expressed for the 
 happy birth of the Prince of Wales, 29th 
 of May, now Charles the Second, our most 
 gracious Sovereign. 
 
 163 1. There happened now an extra- 
 ordinary dearth in England, corn bearing 
 an excessive price ; and, in imitation of 
 what I had seen my father do, I began to 
 observe matters more punctually, which I 
 did use to set down in a blank almanack. 4 
 The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment for 
 many shameful exorbitances was now all 
 the talk, 5 and the birth of the Princess 
 Mary, afterwards Princess of Orange. 6 
 
 1 [23rd August, r628.] 
 
 2 Long afterwards, Evelyn was in the habit of 
 paying great respect to this early teacher. [In 
 May. 1657, Snatt wrote from Lewes a rapturous 
 letter thanking his old pupil for a presentation copy 
 of the Essay on the First Book of T. Lucretius 
 Carus de Rerum Natura, 1656.] 
 
 3 [Southover and Cliffe are suburbs of Lewes.] 
 
 4 [This no doubt was the beginning of the 
 Memoirs.] 
 
 5 Mervyn Touchet, twelfth Lord Audley and 
 second Earl of Castlehaven, 1592-1631. He was 
 tried by his peers for his "shameful exorbitances" 
 in Westminster Hall, and in pursuance of their 
 sentence, executed on Tower Hill, May 14, 1631. 
 
 6 [6th November, 1631.] 
 
 1632: 21st October. My eldest sister 1 
 was married to Edward Darcy, Esq., who 
 little deserved so excellent a person, a 
 woman of so rare virtue. I was not present 
 at the nuptials ; but I was soon afterwards 
 sent for into Surrey, and my father would 
 willingly have weaned me from my fondness 
 of my too indulgent grandmother, intending 
 to have me placed at Eton : but, not being 
 so provident for my own benefit, and un- 
 reasonably terrified with the report of the 
 severe discipline there, I was sent back to 
 Lewes ; which perverseness of mine I have 
 since a thousand times deplored. This 
 was the first time that ever my parents had 
 seen all their children together in prosperity. 
 While I was now trifling at home, I saw 
 London, where I lay one night only, The 
 next day, I dined at Beddington, 2 where I 
 was much delighted with the gardens and 
 curiosities. Thence, we returned to the 
 Lady Darcy's, at Sutton ; thence to Wotton ; 
 and, on the 16th of August following, 1633, 
 back to Lewes. 
 
 1633 : yd November. This year my 
 father was appointed Sheriff, the last, as I 
 think, who served in that honourable office 
 for Surrey and Sussex, before they were 
 disjoined. 3 He had 116 servants in liveries, 
 every one liveried in green satin doublets ; 
 divers gentlemen and persons of quality 
 waited on him in the same garb and habit, 
 which at that time (when thirty or forty 
 was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) 
 was esteemed a great matter. 4 Nor was 
 this out of the least vanity that my father 
 exceeded (who was one of the greatest 
 decliners of it) ; but because he could not 
 refuse the civility of his friends and relations, 
 who voluntarily came themselves, or sent 
 in their servants. But my father was .after- 
 wards most unjustly and spitefully molested 
 by that jeering judge, Richardson, 5 for 
 
 1 [Eliza (see ante, p. 1 «.). Her husband is de- 
 scribed as " of Dartford, in Kent."] 
 
 2 [Beddington House, the ancient seat of the 
 Carews, now the Female Orphan Asylum, founded 
 in 1758 by the exertions of blind Sir John Fielding, 
 the novelist's brother (see post, under 20th Sep- 
 tember, 1700).] 3 [Sez ante, p. 1 «.] 
 
 4 [Brayley adds some sumptuary details. They 
 had "cloth cloaks, guarded with silver galoon, as 
 were their hat brims, with white feathers in them." 
 They had also " new javelins," and were preceded 
 by " two trumpeters with banners, on which were 
 blazoned his [Richard Evelyn's] arms " (History 0/ 
 Surrey, 1850, p. 21 «.)] 
 
 5 Sir Thomas Richardson, 1569 - 1635, Chief- 
 
1635] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 reprieving the execution of a woman, to 
 gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then Admiral : 1 
 but out of this he emerged with as much 
 honour as trouble. The King made this 
 year his progress into Scotland,' 2 and Duke 
 James was born. 3 
 
 1634 : i$th December. My dear sister, 
 Darcy, 4 departed this life, being arrived to 
 her 20th year of age ; in virtue advanced 
 beyond her years, or the merit of her 
 husband, the worst of men. She had been 
 brought to bed the 2nd of June before, but 
 the infant died soon after her, the 24th of 
 December. I was therefore sent for home 
 the second time, to celebrate the obsequies 
 of my sister ; who was interred in a very 
 honourable manner in our dormitory join- 
 ing to the parish church, where now her 
 monument stands. 5 
 
 1635. But my dear mother being now 
 dangerously sick, I was, on the 3rd of 
 September following, sent for to Wotton. 
 Whom I found so far spent, that, all human 
 assistance failing, she in a most heavenly 
 manner departed this life upon the 29th of 
 the same month, about eight in the evening 
 of Michaelmas Day. It was a malignant 
 fever which took her away, about the 37th 
 of her age, and 22nd of her marriage, to 
 our irreparable loss, and the regret of all 
 that knew her. Certain it is, that the 
 
 Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626, and of the 
 King's Bench in 1631. One of his acts was an 
 order against keeping wakes on Sundays, which 
 Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells, took up as 
 an infringement of the rights of bishops, and got 
 him severely reprimanded at the Council-table. 
 He was owner of Starborough Castle, Lingfield, 
 Surrey, the ancient seat of the Cobhams. A modern 
 house now occupies the site. 
 
 1 Robert Bertie, 1572-1642, first Earl of Lindsey. 
 He was at different times Lord High Chamberlain, 
 Lord High Admiral, and Governor of Berwick; 
 and was general of the King's forces at the breaking 
 out of the Civil War. He was in command at the 
 Battle of Edgehill, in 1642 ; but, opposing Prince 
 Rupert's pretensions, he surrendered a responsi- 
 bility which the weakness of Charles would have 
 had him divide with a "boy," put himself at the 
 head of his regiment, fought with heroic gallantry, 
 and fell covered with wounds. 
 
 2 [He was crowned there, 18th June.] 
 
 3 [James, Duke of York, 15th October.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 4.] 
 
 5 [She is shown, with her infant below her, 
 "leaning mournfully on her elbow," says Brayley 
 {History 0/ Surrey, 1850, v. 41). Her husband 
 afterwards married the Lady Elizabeth Stanhope, 
 daughter of the Earl of Chesterfield. " He ruined 
 both himself and Estate by his dissolute Life" 
 (Evelyn's note to Aubrey).] 
 
 visible cause of her indisposition proceeded 
 from grief upon the loss of her daughter, 
 and the infant, that followed it ; and it is 
 as certain, that when she ^perceived the 
 peril whereto its excess had engaged her, 
 she strove to compose herself and allay it : 
 but it was too late, and she was forced to 
 succumb. Therefore, summoning all her 
 children then living (I shall never forget 
 it), she expressed herself in a manner so 
 heavenly, with instructions so pious and 
 Christian, as made us strangely sensible of 
 the extraordinary loss then imminent ; after 
 which, embracing every one of us, she 
 gave to each a ring with her blessing, and 
 dismissed us. Then, taking my father by 
 the hand, she recommended us to his care ; 
 and, because she was extremely zealous for 
 the education of my younger brother, 1 she 
 requested my father that he might be sent 
 with me to Lewes ; and so, having im- 
 portuned him that what he designed to 
 bestow on her funeral, he would rather 
 dispose among the poor, she laboured to 
 compose herself for the blessed change 
 which she now expected. There was not 
 a servant in the house whom she did not 
 expressly send for, advise, and infinitely 
 affect with her counsel. Thus she con- 
 tinued to employ her intervals, either in- 
 structing her relations, or preparing of 
 herself. 
 
 Though her physicians,. Dr. Meverall, 2 
 Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, 3 had given 
 over all hopes of her recovery, and Sir 
 Sanders Duncombe 4 had tried his celebrated 
 and famous powder, yet she was many days 
 impairing, and endured the sharpest con- 
 flicts of her sickness with admirable patience 
 and most Christian resignation, retaining 
 both her intellectuals and ardent affections 
 for her dissolution, to the very article of 
 her departure. When near her dissolution, 
 she laid her hand on every one of her 
 children ; and, taking solemn leave of my 
 father, with elevated heart and eyes, she 
 quietly expired, and resigned her soul to 
 God. Thus ended that prudent and pious 
 woman, in the flower of her age, to the 
 
 1 [Richard, then thirteen (see ante, p. 1 «.).] 
 
 2 [Perhaps Othowell Meverall, 1585-1648, lecturer 
 to the Barber Surgeons, and afterwards President 
 of the College of Physicians.] 
 
 3 [Dr. R. Rand (see post, under 5th March, 
 
 1657)-! 
 •* [See/>ost, under 8th February, 1645.] 
 
THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1636 
 
 inconsolable affliction of her husband, irrep- 
 arable loss of her children, and universal 
 regret of all that knew her. She was 
 interred, as near as might be, to her 
 daughter, Darcy, the 3rd of October, at 
 night, but with no mean ceremony. 1 
 
 It was the 3rd of the ensuing November, 
 after my brother George was gone back to 
 Oxford, ere I returned to Lewes, when I 
 made way, according to instructions re- 
 ceived of my father, for my brother Richard, 
 who was sent the 12th after. 
 
 1636. This year being extremely dry, 
 the pestilence much increased in London, 
 and divers parts of England. 2 
 
 1637 : 13M February. I was especially 
 admitted (and, as I remember, my other 
 brother) into the Middle Temple, London, 
 though absent, and as yet at school. There 
 were now large contributions to the dis- 
 tressed Palatinates. 3 
 
 The 10th of December my father sent a 
 servant to bring us necessaries ; and, the 
 plague beginning now to cease, on the 
 3rd of April, 1637, I left school, where, till 
 about the last year, I have been extremely 
 remiss in my studies ; so as I went to the 
 University rather out of shame of abiding 
 longer at school, than for any fitness, as by 
 sad experience I found : which put me to 
 re-learn all that I had neglected, or but 
 perfunctorily gained. 
 
 \oth May. I was admitted a Fellow- 
 commoner of Balliol College, Oxford ; 4 
 and, on the 29th, I was matriculated in the 
 vestry of St. Mary's, where I subscribed 
 the Articles, and took the oaths : Dr. Baily, 
 head of St. John's, being vice-chancellor, 
 afterwards bishop. It appears by a letter 
 of my father's, that he was upon treaty with 
 one Mr. Bathurst (afterwards Doctor and 
 President), of Trinity College, who should 
 have been my tutor ; but, lest my brother's 
 tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in his life 
 than industrious to his pupils, should receive 
 
 1 [On her mural mcnument in the Wotton 
 Dormitory, she is described as "a rare example of 
 Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity," and the 
 inscription ends with the couplet : — 
 
 Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more, 
 Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before.] 
 
 2 In a letter dated 26th July in this year, George 
 Evelyn, John's elder brother, writing to their 
 father, describes, with many curious details, a 
 Royal visit to Oxford University (see Appendix I.). 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 3 «.] 
 
 •* [See post, under gth July, 1654.] 
 
 it as an affront, and especially for that 
 Fellow-commoners in Balliol were no more 
 exempt from exercise than the meanest 
 scholars there, my father sent me thither 
 to one Mr. George Bradshaw (nomen 
 invisum I 1 yet the son of an excellent 
 father, beneficed in Surrey). 2 I ever 
 thought my tutor had parts enough ; but, 
 as his ambition made him much suspected 
 of the College, so his grudge to Dr. 
 Lawrence, 3 the governor of it (whom he 
 afterwards supplanted), took up so much 
 of his time, that he seldom or never had 
 the opportunity to discharge his duty to 
 his scholars. 4 This I perceiving, associated 
 myself with one Mr. James Thicknesse 
 (then a young man of the foundation, after- 
 wards a Fellow of the house), 5 by whose 
 learned and friendly conversation I received 
 great advantage. At my first arrival, Dr. 
 Parkhurst was master; 6 and, after his 
 decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of his 
 Majesty's and Margaret P'rofessor, suc- 
 ceeded, an acute and learned person : nor 
 do I much reproach his severity, considering 
 that the extraordinary remissness of disci- 
 pline had (till his coming) much detracted 
 from the reputation of that College. 
 
 There came in my time to the College 
 one Nathaniel Conopios, out of Greece, 
 from Cyril, the patriarch of Constantinople, 
 who, returning many years after, was made 
 (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. 7 He 
 was the first I ever saw drink coffee ; which 
 custom came not into England till thirty 
 years after. 8 
 
 1 [Being that of the regicide, John Bradshaw.] 
 
 2 [Rector of Ockham.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Thomas Lawrence, 1598-1657, was Master 
 from 1637 to 1648.] 
 
 4 [George Bradshaw was the spy and delegate of 
 the Parliamentary Visitors. He became Master in 
 1648, succeeding Lawrence.] 
 
 5 [James Thicknes or Thickens, according to the 
 coilege books. He became a Probationer Fellow 
 in 1639. In 1648 he was ejected by the Parlia- 
 mentary Visitors for loyalty ; but he was reinstated 
 at ths Restoration by special Writ from the Crown 
 (Davis's Balliol College, 1899, pp. 127, 137, 146).] 
 
 6 [Dr. John Parkhurst, 1564-1639, was Master of 
 Balliol from 1616 to 1637.] 
 
 7 [Conopios or Conopius is also said by one of 
 Evelyn's college contemporaries, Dr. Henry Savage, 
 to have professed to be a composer of music, which 
 would attract Evelyn to him, if it were true. But 
 he lay under the di c advantage of being a Cretan 
 (Davis's Balliol College, 1899, p. 115).] 
 
 8 [Coffee was introduced in 164.x. The first 
 coffee-ho'ise in England was at Oxford, 1650 ; the 
 first in London, 1652.] 
 
i6 3 8] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 After I was somewhat settled there in my 
 formalities (for then was the University 
 exceedingly regular, under the exact disci- 
 cipline of William Laud, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, then Chancellor), I added, as 
 benefactor to the library of the College, 
 these books — " ex donojohannis Evelyni, 
 hujus Coll. Socio- Comm ensalis, filii Richardi 
 Evelyni ', 2 com. Surriae, armig r ." — 
 
 Zanchii Opera, vols. I, 2, 3. 
 
 Granado in Thomam Aquinatem, vols. I, 
 
 2, 3- 
 
 Novarini Electa Sacra, and Cresolu 
 Anthologia Sacra ; authors, it seems, much 
 desired by the students of divinity there. 1 
 
 Upon the 2nd of July, being the first 
 Sunday of the month, I first received the 
 blessed Sacrament of the Lord's Supper, 
 in the college chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a 
 Fellow of the house, preaching ; and at 
 "this time was the Church of England in her 
 greatest splendour, all things decent, and 
 )ecoming the Peace, and the persons that 
 roverned. The most of the following week 
 spent in visiting the Colleges, and several 
 rarities of the University, wjuciudo_v:ery 
 much affect young comers. 
 
 l%th July. I accompanied my eldest 
 brother, who then quitted Oxford, into the 
 country ; and, on the 9th of August, went 
 to visit my friends at Lewes, whence I 
 returned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th 
 of September, I received the blessed Sacra- 
 ment at Wotton Church, and 23rd of 
 October went back to Oxford. 
 
 $tk November. I received again the 
 Holy Communion in our college chapel, 
 one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad one), 
 preaching. 
 
 gtk December. I offered at my first 
 exercise in the Hall, and answered my 
 opponent; and, upon the nth following, 
 declaimed in the chapel before, the Master, 
 Fellows, and Scholars, according to the 
 custom. The 15th after, I first of all 
 opposed in the Hall. 
 
 The Christmas ensuing, being at a 
 Comedy which the gentlemen of Exeter 
 College presented to the University, and 
 standing, for the better advantage of seeing, 
 upon a table in the Hall, which was near 
 
 1 [This was in addition to the usual money con- 
 tribution which Fellow Commoners had to make 
 for plate. In 1697, Evelyn also gave the College 
 his Discourse on Medals (Davis, ut supra, p. 128).] 
 
 to another, in the dark, being constrained 
 by the extraordinary press to quit my station, 
 in leaping down to save myself I dashed 
 my right leg witjh such violence against the 
 sharp edge of the other board, as gave me 
 a hurt which held me in cure till almost 
 Easter, and confined me to my study. 
 
 1638 : 22nd January. I would needs 
 be admitted into the dancing and vaulting 
 schools ; of which late activity one Stokes, 
 the master, did afterwards set forth a pretty 
 book, which was published, with many 
 witty eulogies before it. 1 
 
 4I/1 February. One Mr. Wariner 
 preached in our chapel ; and, on the 25th, 
 Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman of the Earl of 
 Strafford ; 2 after which followed the blessed 
 Sacrament. 
 
 13M April. My father ordered that I 
 should begin to manage my own expenses, 
 which till then my tutor had done ; at 
 which I was much satisfied. 
 
 <)tk July. I went home to visit my 
 friends, and, on the 26th, with my brother 
 and sister to Lewes, where we abode till 
 the 31st ; and thence to one Mr. Michael's, 
 of Houghton, near Arundel, where we 
 were very well treated ; and, on the 2nd of 
 August, to Portsmouth, and thence, having 
 surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity in 
 that blessed halcyon time in England), we 
 passed into the Isle of Wight, to the house 
 of my Lady Richards, in a place called 
 Yaverland ; 3 but we returned the following 
 day to Chichester, where, having viewed 
 the city and fair cathedral, we returned 
 home. 
 
 About the beginning of September, I 
 was so afflicted with a quartan ague, that 
 I could by no means get rid of it till the . 
 December following. This was the fatal 
 year wherein the rebellious Scots opposed 
 the King, upon the pretence of the intro- 
 duction of some new ceremonies and the 
 
 1 Now extremely scarce. Its title is:— "The 
 Vaulting-Master : or, The Art of Vaulting. Re- 
 duced to a Method, comprized under certaine 
 Rules, Illustrated by Examples, And Now primarily 
 set forth, by Will: Stokes. Printed for Richard 
 Davis, in Oxon, 1652." It is a small oblong quarto, 
 with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number 
 of plates beautifully engraved (most probably by 
 George Glover), representing feats of activity on 
 horseback. 
 
 2 [Peter Wentworth, Lord Strafford s cousin. 
 He was Dean of Armagh, 1636-37.] 
 
 3 [A village on Sandown Bay.] 
 
s 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1639 
 
 Book of Common Prayer, and madly began 
 our confusions, and their own destruction, 
 too, as it proved in event. 1 
 
 1639: 14M Jamiary. I came back to 
 Oxford, after my tedious indisposition, and 
 to the infinite loss of my time ; and now I 
 began to look upon the rudiments of music, 
 in which I afterwards arrived to some 
 formal knowledge, though to small perfec- 
 tion of hand, because I was so frequently 
 diverted with inclinations to newer trifles. 
 
 2.0th May. Accompanied with one Mr. 
 J. Crafford (who afterwards being my 
 fellow-traveller in Italy, there changed his 
 religion), 2 I took a journey of pleasure 
 to see the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, 
 Cirencester, Malmesbury, Abingdon, and 
 divers other towns of lesser note ; and 
 returned the 25th. 
 
 8tk October. I went back to Oxford. 
 
 14th December. According to injunctions 
 from the Heads of Colleges, I went (amongst 
 the rest) to the Confirmation in St. Mary's, 
 where, after sermon, the Bishop of Oxford 3 
 laid his hands upon us, with the usual form 
 of benediction prescribed : but this, re- 
 ceived (I fear) for the most part out of 
 curiosity, rather than with that due prepar- 
 ation and advice which had been requisite, 
 could not be so effectual as otherwise that 
 admirable and useful institution might have 
 been, and as I have since deplored it. 
 
 1640 : 21st January. Came my brother, 
 Richard, from school,. to be my chamber- 
 fellow at the University. He was admitted 
 the next day, and matriculated the 31st. 
 
 lltk April. I went to London to see the 
 solemnity of his Majesty's riding through 
 the city in state to the Short Parliament, 
 which began the 13th following, — a very 
 glorious and magnificent sight, the King 
 circled with his royal diadem and the 
 affections of his people : 4 but the day after 
 I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, 
 my father's indisposition suffering great 
 intervals, till April 27th, when I was sent 
 to London to be first resident at the Middle 
 
 1 This passage appears first in the edition of 
 1850 ; but Evelyn saw reason afterwards somewhat 
 to change his tone. See post, under 4th February, 
 1685. 
 
 2 [He is not mentioned again in the Diary.] 
 
 3 [Dr. John Bancroft, 1574 -1640, Bishop of 
 Oxford, 1632-40.] 
 
 4 [This instance of syllepsis is rather rare in 
 Evelyn.] 
 
 Temple : so as my being at the University, 
 in regard of these avocations, was of very 
 small benefit to me. Upon May the 5th 
 following, was the Parliament unhappily 
 dissolved ; and, on the 20th, I returned 
 with my brother George to Wotton, who, 
 on the 28th of the same month, was married 
 at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of 
 an ancient Leicestershire family), 1 where 
 part of the nuptials was celebrated. 
 
 10th June. I repaired with my brother 
 to the term, to go into our new lodgings 
 (that were formerly in Essex-court), being 
 a very handsome apartment just over 
 against the Hall- court, but four pair of 
 stairs high, which gave us the advantage 
 of the fairer prospect ; but did not much 
 contribute to the love of that im polished 
 study, to which (I suppose) my father had 
 designed me, when he paid .£145 to pur- 
 chase our present lives, and assignments 
 afterwards. 
 
 London, and especially the Court, were 
 at this period in frequent disorders, and 
 great insolences were committed by the 
 abused and too happy City : in particular, 
 the Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lam- 
 beth was assaulted by a rude rabble from 
 Southwark, 2 my Lord Chamberlain im- 
 prisoned, and many scandalous libels and 
 invectives scattered about the streets, to 
 the reproach of Government, and the 
 fermentation of our since distractions : so 
 that, upon the 25th of ]\ine, I was sent for 
 to Wotton, and the 27th after, my father's 
 indisposition augmenting, by advice of the 
 physicians he repaired to the Bath. 
 
 Jtk July. My brother George and I, 
 understanding the peril my father was 
 in upon a sudden attack of his infirmity, 
 rode post from Guildford towards him, and 
 found him extraordinary weak ; yet so as 
 that, continuing his course, he held out till 
 
 1 Mary, daughter of Daniel Caldwell of Horndon, 
 in Essex, by Mary, daughter of George Duncomb, 
 Esq., of Albury. She died 15th May, 1644, and he 
 afterwards married Lady Cotton (see ante, p. 2). 
 
 2 ["At Lambeth mye house was beset at mid- 
 night, Maij ii, with 500 people that came thither 
 with a drumme beatinge before them. I had some 
 little notice of it about 2 howres before, and went 
 to Whit-Hall, leavinge mye house as well ordred 
 as I could with such armes and men as I could gett 
 readye. And I thanke God, bye his goodnes, kept 
 all safe. Some wear taken and to be tryed for their 
 lives." — Archbishop Laud to Lord Conivay, May 
 25, 1640. {Gentleman s Magazine, April, 1850, p. 
 349.) One man was executed, 23rd May.] 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 the 8th of September, when I returned 
 home with him in his litter. 
 
 15M October. I went to the Temple, it 
 being Michaelmas Term. 
 
 30M. I saw his Majesty (coming from 
 his Northern Expedition) ride in pomp and 
 a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a 
 happy peace, restored to the affections of 
 his people, being conducted through London 
 with a most splendid cavalcade ; and, on 
 the 3rd November following (a day never 
 to be mentioned without a curse), to that 
 long ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parlia- 
 ment, 1 the beginning of all our sorrows for 
 twenty years after, and the period of the 
 most happy monarch in the world : Quis 
 talia fando ! 
 
 But my father being by this time entered 
 into a dropsy, an indisposition the most 
 unsuspected, being a person so exemplarily 
 temperate, and of admirable regimen, 
 hastened me back to Wotton, December 
 the 1 2th ; where, the 24th following, be- 
 tween twelve and one o'clock at noon, 
 departed this life that excellent man and 
 indulgent parent, retaining his senses and 
 piety to the last, which he most tenderly 
 expressed in blessing us, whom he now left 
 to the world and the worst of times, whilst 
 he was taken from the evil to come. 
 
 1641. It was a sad and lugubrious be- 
 ginning of the year, when, on the 2nd of 
 January, 1 640-1, we at night followed the 
 mourning hearse to the church at Wotton ; 
 when, after a sermon and funeral oration 
 by the minister, 2 my father was interred 
 near his formerly erected monument, 3 and 
 mingled with the ashes of our mother, his 
 dear wife. Thus we were bereft of both 
 our parents in a period when we most of 
 all stood in need of their counsel and assist- 
 ance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, 
 uncertain, and very unwary inclination : 
 but so it pleased God to make trial of my 
 conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest 
 and most prodigious hazard that ever the 
 youth of England saw ; and, if I did not 
 amidst all this impeach my liberty nor my 
 
 1 [The Long Parliament. Its first deliberations 
 were occupied with the trial of Strafford and the 
 impeachment of Laud. Its last sitting took place 
 March 16, 1660. It was dissolved and determined, 
 12 Car. II. c. i.] 
 
 2 [Mr. Higham. See ante, p. 3.] 
 
 3 [On the north wall of the Wotton Dormitory- 
 His epitaph says he died on the 20th December.] 
 
 virtue with the rest who made shipwreck^ 
 of both, it was more the infinite goodness 
 and mercy of God than the least providence 
 or discretion of mine own, who now thought 
 of nothing but the pursuit of vanity, and 
 the confused imaginations of young men. 
 
 i$th April. I repaired to London to 
 hear and see the famous trial of the Earl 
 of Strafford, Lord -Deputy of Ireland, who, 
 on the 22nd of March, had been summoned 
 before both Houses of Parliament, and now 
 appeared in Westminster-hall, 1 which was 
 prepared with scaffolds for the Lords and 
 Commons, who, together with the King, 
 Queen, Prince, and flower of the noblesse, 
 were spectators and auditors of the greatest 
 malice and the greatest innocency that ever 
 met before so illustrious an assembly. It 
 was Thomas, Earl of Arundel and Surrey, 
 Earl Marshal of England, who was made 
 High Steward upon this occasion ; 2 and 
 the sequel is too well known to need any 
 notice of the event. 
 
 On the 27th April came over out of 
 Holland the young Prince of Orange, with 
 a splendid equipage, to make love to his 
 Majesty's eldest daughter, the now Princess 
 Royal. 8 . 
 
 That evening was celebrated the pomp- 
 ous funeral of the Duke of Richmond, 
 who was carried in effigy, with all the 
 ensigns of that illustrious family, in an 
 open chariot, in great solemnity, through 
 London to Westminster Abbey. 
 
 On the 1 2th of May I beheld on Tower- 
 hill the fatal stroke which severed the 
 wisest head in England from the shoulders 
 
 1 On the 15th April, Strafford made his eloquent 
 defence, at which it seems to have been Evelyn's 
 good fortune to be present. And here — says 
 Forster— the reader may remark the fact, not with- 
 out significance, that between the entries on this 
 page of the Diary which relate to Lord Strafford, 
 the young Prince of Orange came over to make 
 love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old ; 
 and that the marriage was subsequently celebrated 
 amid extraordinary Court rejoicings and festivities, 
 in which the King took a prominent part, during 
 the short interval which elapsed between the 
 sentence and execution of the King's great and 
 unfortunate minister. 
 
 8 [This was Thomas Howard, second Earl, 1586- 
 1646. He had been Earl Marshal since 162 1. In 
 1636 (as stated below), he went to Vienna to urge 
 the restitution of the Palatinate to the nephew of 
 Charles I. (see post, under 10th September and 
 8th October, 1641).] 
 
 8 [William II. of Nnssau, Prince of Orange, 
 afterwards married, May 2, 1648, to the Princess 
 Mary.] 
 
IO 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [164 1 
 
 of the Earl of Strafford, whose crime 
 coming under the cognisance of no human 
 law or statute, a new one was made, not 
 to be a precedent, but his destruction. 
 With what reluctancy the King signed the 
 execution, he has sufficiently expressed ; to 
 which he imputes his own unjust suffering 
 — to such exorbitancy 1 were things arrived. 
 On the 24th May I returned to Wotton ; 
 and, on the 28th of June, I went to London 
 with my sister Jane, 2 and the day after sat 
 to one Van der Borcht 3 for my picture in 
 oil, at Arundel-house, 4 whose servant that 
 excellent painter was, brought out of Ger- 
 many when the Earl returned from Vienna 
 (whither he was sent Ambassador -extra- 
 ordinary, with great pomp and charge, 
 though without any effect, through the 
 artifice of the Jesuited Spaniard, who 
 governed all in that conjuncture). With 
 Van der Borcht, the painter, he brought 
 over Wenceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, 5 
 who engraved not only the unhappy 
 Deputy's trial in Westminster-hall, but his 
 decapitation ; as he did several other his- 
 torical things, then relating to the accidents 
 happening during the Rebellion in Eng- 
 land, with great skill ; besides many cities, 
 towns, and landscapes, not only of this 
 
 1 [Enormity (see ante, p. 4).] 
 
 2 [See note, ante, p. 1.] 
 
 a Hendrik van der Borcht, a painter of Brussels, 
 lived at FrankenLhaL Lord Arundel, finding his 
 son at Frankfort, sent him to Mr. Petty, his chap- 
 lain and agent, then collecting for him in Italy, and 
 afterwards kept him in his service as long as he 
 lived. The younger Van der Borcht was both 
 painter and engraver ; he drew many of the Arun- 
 delian curiosities, and etched several things both in 
 that and the Royal Collection. A book of his 
 drawings from the former, containing 567 pieces, is 
 preserved at Paris ; and is described in the cata- 
 logue of L'Orangerie. After the death of the Earl, 
 he entered into the service of the Prince of Wales, 
 afterwards Charles II., and lived in esteem in 
 London for a considerable time ; but returned to 
 Antwerp, and died there in 1660. [Hollar engraved 
 the portrait of both father and son, the former from 
 a picture by the latter.] 
 
 4 [In the Strand, between Milford Lane and 
 Strand Bridge. Arundel Street, Norfolk Street, 
 Howard Street, and others now occupy the site.] 
 
 5 Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver, 1607-77. In 
 the troubles he distinguished himself as a Royalist, 
 for which he was imprisoned by the Parliament. 
 He escaped to the Continent ; but afterwards re- 
 turned to England, where he eventually died in 
 poverty. [George Vertue published a description 
 of his works, with a life ; and an elaborate cata- 
 logue of his prints by Gustav Par they appeared at 
 Berlin in 1853. Evelyn gives him a page of Sculp- 
 tura, chap, iv.] 
 
 nation, but of foreign parts, and divers 
 portraits of famous persons then in being ; 
 and things designed from the best pieces 
 of the rare paintings and masters of which 
 the Earl of Arundel was possessor, pur- 
 chased and collected in his travels with in- 
 credible expense : so as, though Hollar's 
 were but etched in aqua-fortis, I account 
 the collection to be the most authentic and 
 useful extant. Hollar was the son of a 
 gentleman near Prague, in Bohemia, and 
 my very good friend, perverted at last by 
 the Jesuits at Antwerp to change his re- 
 ligion ; a very honest, simple, well-meaning 
 man, who at last came over again into 
 England, where he died. We have the 
 whole history of the King's reign, from his 
 trial in Westminster-hall and before, to the 
 restoration of King Charles II. , represented 
 in several sculptures, 1 with that also of 
 Archbishop Laud, by this indefatigable 
 artist ; besides innumerable sculptures in 
 the works of Dugdale, Ashmole, and other 
 historical and useful works. I am the 
 more particular upon this for the fruit of 
 that collection, which I wish I had entire. 
 This picture 2 I presented to my sister, 
 being at her request, on my resolution to 
 absent myself from this ill face of things at 
 home, which gave umbrage 3 to wiser than 
 myself that the medal was reversing, and 
 our calamities but yet in their infancy : so 
 that, on the 15th of July, having procured 
 a pass at the Custom-house, where I re- 
 peated my oath of allegiance, I went from 
 London to Gravesend, accompanied with 
 one Mr. Caryll, a Surrey gentleman, and 
 our servants, where we arrived by six 
 o'clock that evening, with a purpose to 
 take the first opportunity of a passage for 
 Holland. 4 But the wind as yet not favour- 
 
 1 [Sculptures = engravings. Johnson still uses 
 the word in this sense in a letter to Mr. Barnard of 
 May 28, 1768.] 
 
 2 His own portrait, by Van der Borcht. [It is 
 still in the Picture Gallery at Wotton House.] 
 
 3 [Suspicion, foreshadowing.] 
 
 4 [In this he was acting upon the counsel he 
 gives in his Preface to The State 0/ France as to 
 foreign travel :— "The principall places of Europe, 
 wherein a gentleman may, uno intuitu, behold as 
 in a theater the chief and most signal actions which 
 (out of his owne countrey) concerne this later age 
 and part of the world, are the Netherlands, compre- 
 hending Flanders and the divided provinces ; which 
 is a perfect encycle and synopsis of whatever one 
 may elsewhere see in all the other countryes of 
 Europe ; and for this end I willingly recommend 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 11 
 
 able, we had time to view the Block-house 
 of that town, which answered to another 
 over against it at Tilbury, famous for the 
 rendezvous of Queen Elizabeth, in the year 
 1588, which we found stored with twenty 
 pieces of cannon, and other ammunition 
 proportionable. On the 19th July, we 
 made a short excursion to Rochester, and 
 having seen the cathedral, went to Chatham 
 to see the Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel 
 of burden lately built there, being for de- 
 fence and ornament, the richest that ever 
 spread cloth before the wind. 1 She carried 
 an hundred brass cannon, and was 1200 
 tons ; a rare sailer, the work of the famous 
 Phineas Pett, inventor of the frigate-fashion 
 of building, to this day practised. 2 But 
 what is to be deplored as to this vessel is, 
 that it cost his Majesty the affections of his 
 subjects, perverted by the malcontent great 
 ones, who took occasion to quarrel for his 
 having raised a very slight tax for the 
 building of this, and equipping the rest of 
 the navy, without an act of Parliament ; 
 though by the suffrages of the major part 
 of the Judges the King might legally do in 
 times of imminent danger, of which his 
 Majesty was best apprised. But this not 
 satisfying a jealous party, it was condemned 
 as unprecedential, and not justifiable as to 
 
 them to be first visited, no otherwise than do those 
 who direct us in the study of history to the reading 
 first of some authentick epitome, or universall 
 chronology, before we adventure to launch forth 
 into that vast and profound ocean of voluminous 
 authours" {Miscellaneous Writitigs } 1825, p. 50). 
 He goes on to regret that when he visited the Low 
 Countries his judgment was yet immature.] 
 
 1 [This vessel, which had been built at Woolwich 
 in 1637 with the Ship-money, "was in almost all 
 the great engagements that were fought between 
 England and Holland." The Dutch called her the 
 Golden Devil from the gilding on her stern. Her 
 first name was Sovereign of the Seas. In 1684 she 
 was rebuilt, and renamed the Royal Sovereign. 
 She was afterwards accidentally burned at Chatham 
 (see post, under 2nd February, 1696). There is a 
 model of her at Greenwich Hospital.] 
 
 2 [Phineas Pett, 1570-1647, master-builder of the 
 navy, and resident Commissioner at Chatham, 
 1630-1647. He left a Diary, extracts from which 
 are published in vol. xii. of the Archacologia. He 
 is said to have been " the first scientific naval archi- 
 tect." It is, however, Peter Pett, his nephew, 
 1593-1652, who is credited with the invention of the 
 frigate, reference to which ir> made on his monu- 
 ment in St. Nicholas Church : " Verum illnd exi- 
 mium et novum navigij ornamentum, quod nostri 
 
 frigatuvt nuncufant, . . . primus invenit " (Dews' 
 Deptford, 1884, pp. 76, 220). See also post, 7th 
 March, 1690.] 
 
 the Royal prerogative ; and, accordingly, 
 the Judges were removed out of their 
 places, fined, and imprisoned. 1 
 
 We returned again this evening, and on 
 the 21st July embarked in a Dutch frigate, 
 bound for Flushing, convoyed and accom- 
 panied by five other stout vessels, whereof 
 one was a man-of-war. The next day at 
 noon, we landed at Flushing. 
 
 Being desirous to overtake the leaguer, 2 
 which was then before Gennep, 3 ere the 
 summer should be too far spent, we went 
 this evening from Flushing to Middleburg, 
 another fine town in this island, 4 to Veere, 
 whence the most ancient and illustrious 
 Earls of Oxford derive their family, who 
 have spent so much blood in assisting the 
 State during their wars. From Veere we 
 passed over many towns, houses, and ruins 
 of demolished suburbs, etc., which have 
 formerly been swallowed up by the sea ; 
 at what time no less than eight of those 
 islands had been irrecoverably lost. 
 
 The next day we arrived at Dort, the 
 first town of Holland, furnished with all 
 German commodities, and especially 
 Rhenish wines and timber. It hath almost 
 at the extremity a very spacious and vener- 
 able church ; a stately senate - house, 
 wherein was holden that famous synod 
 against the Arminians in 1618; 5 and in 
 that hall hangeth a picture of "The 
 Passion," an exceeding rare and much- 
 esteemed piece. 
 
 From Dort, being desirous to hasten 
 towards the army, I took waggon this 
 afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we were 
 hurried in less than an hour, though it be 
 ten miles distant ; so furiously do those fore- 
 men drive. I went first to visit the great 
 church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the 
 
 1 In this way, Evelyn in 1641 refers to the tax 
 of Ship-money. In a letter dated eight years later, 
 26th March, 1649, his tone is somewhat different. 
 If monarchy is to be saved in England, nothing is 
 to be done as to Government "but what shall be 
 approved of by the old way of a free parliament, 
 and the known laws of the land." 
 
 2 [Siege. Site post, under 17th December, 1684.] 
 
 3 On the Niers, in the province of Limburg-=-a 
 place which, having been greatly strengthened by 
 the Cardinal Infante D. Ferdinando, in 1635, was 
 at this time besieged by the French and Dutch. 
 
 4 [I.e. the island of Walcheren. ] 
 
 5 [From 13th November, 161 8, to 19th May, 
 1619. Its object was to effect a compromise 
 between the Arminians and the Calvinists ; but the 
 latter prevailed.] 
 
12 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1641 
 
 public statue of the learned Erasmus, of 
 brass. 1 They showed us his house, or 
 rather the mean cottage, wherein he was 
 born, over which there are extant these 
 lines, in capital letters : — 
 
 ^EDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORA VIT 
 ERASMUS ARTIBUS, INGENIO, RE- 
 LIGIONE, FIDE. 2 
 
 The 26th July I passed by a straight 
 and commodious river through Delft to the 
 Hague ; in which journey I observed divers 
 leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary 
 huts on the brink of the water, and per- 
 mitted to ask the charity of passengers, 
 which is conveyed to them in a floating 
 box that they cast out. 3 
 
 Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the 
 Queen of Bohemia's court, 4 where I had 
 the honour to kiss her Majesty's hand, and 
 several of the Princesses', her daughters. 
 Prince Maurice was also there, newly come 
 out of Germany ; and my Lord Finch, 6 not 
 long before fled out of England from the 
 fury of the Parliament. It was a fasting 
 day with the Queen for the unfortunate 
 death of her husband, and the presence- 
 chamber had been hung with black velvet 
 ever since his decease. 
 
 1 [In the Groote Markt. It is by Hendrik de 
 Keyser, and was erected in 1622.] 
 
 2 [In the last chapter of Charles Reade's The 
 Cloister and the Hearth, 1861, some of the best 
 scenes in which are confessedly from the " mediaeval 
 pen" of Erasmus, the motto "over the tailor's 
 house in the Brede-Kirk Straet " is given as — 
 "Haec est parva domus natus qua viagnus 
 Erasmus." But further alterations must now have 
 taken place, for according to Baedeker, " the facade 
 of the house No. 5 in this street [the Wyde Kerk- 
 straat], with a statuette of Erasmus in the pediment, 
 is an exact reproduction of the front of the house in 
 which the great scholar was born ' {Belgium and 
 Holland, 1905, p. 294).] 
 
 a ["Perhaps," says Southey in vol. xix. of the 
 Quarterly Review, " this is the latest notice of 
 lepers in Europe being thus thrust apart from 
 the rest of mankind, and Holland is likely to be 
 the country in which the disease would continue 
 longest "(p. 5).] 
 
 4 Elizabeth Stuart, 1596-1662, daughter of James 
 I., mother of the Princes Maurice and Rupert; 
 her youngest daughter was Sophia, Electress of 
 Hanover, whose eldest son was George I. 
 
 5 Sir John Finch, 1584-1660, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons in 1628 ; Attorney-General to 
 Queen Henrietta Maria in 1635 ; the following 
 year promoted to be Judge of the Common Pleas ; 
 afterwards Lord Chief Justice ; thence promoted to 
 be Lord Keeper of the Great Seal in 1637 ; and in 
 April, 1640, advanced to the peerage as Baron 
 Pinch, of Fordwich. 
 
 The 28th July I went to Leyden ; and 
 the 29th to Utrecht, being thirty English 
 miles distant (as they reckon by hours). 
 It was now kermesse, or a fair, in this 
 town, the streets swarming with boors and 
 rudeness, so that early the next morning, 
 having visited the ancient Bishop's court, 
 and the two famous churches, I satisfied 
 my curiosity till my return, and better 
 leisure. We then came to Rynen, where 
 the Queen of Bohemia hath a neat and 
 well-built palace, or country-house, after 
 the Italian manner, as I remember ; and 
 so, crossing the Rhine, upon which this 
 villa is situated, lodged that night in a 
 countryman's house. The 31st to Nime- 
 guen ; and on the 2nd of August we 
 arrived at the leaguer ; where was then the 
 whole army encamped about Gennep, a 
 very strong castle situated on the river 
 Waal ; 1 but, being taken four or five days 
 before, we had only a sight of the demoli- 
 tions. The next Sunday was the thanks- 
 giving sermons performed in Colonel 
 Goring's 2 regiment (eldest son of the since 
 Earl of Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, 3 his chap- 
 lain (now turned Roman and father- 
 confessor to the Queen -mother). The 
 evening was spent in firing cannon and 
 other expressions of military triumphs. 
 
 Now, according to the compliment, I 
 was received a volunteer in the company 
 of Captain Apsley, of whose Captain- 
 lieutenant, Honywood (Apsley being 
 absent), I received many civilities. 
 
 The 3rd August, at night, we rode about 
 the lines of circumvallation, the general 
 being then in the field. The next day, I 
 was accommodated with a very spacious 
 and commodious tent for my lodging ; as 
 before I was with a horse, which I had at 
 command, and a hut which during the 
 excessive heats was a great convenience ; 
 for the sun piercing the canvass of the 
 
 1 [Query,— Niers, a tributary of the Maas, which 
 again runs into the Waal.] 
 
 2 This was George, Baron Goring, 1608-57, dis- 
 tinguished in the Civil Wars as General Goring. 
 He was the eldest son of George Goring, 1583 ?- 
 1663, in 1628 created Baron Goring, and in 1644 
 raised to the Earldom of Norwich, for his services 
 to Charles I., before and after the troubles. 
 General Goring died before his father. ' 
 
 3 [Dr. Stephen Goffe (or Gough), 1605-81. 
 Having "turned Roman," he became Superior of 
 the French Oratorians in 1655. He was chaplain 
 to Henrietta Maria, and tutor to the Duke of 
 Monmouth.] 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 1.3 
 
 tent, it was during the day unsuff'erable, 
 and at night not seldom infested with 
 mists and fogs, which ascended from the 
 river. 
 
 6th August. As the turn came about, 
 we were ordered to watch on a horn-work 
 near our quarters, and trail a pike, being 
 the next morning relieved by a company 
 of French. This was our continual duty 
 till the castle was re-fortified, and all 
 danger of quitting that station secured ; 
 whence T went to see a convent of Fran- 
 ciscan Friars, not far from our quarters, 
 where we found both the chapel and refec- 
 tory full, crowded with the goods of such 
 poor people as at the approach of the army 
 had fled with them thither for sanctuary. 
 On the day following, I went to view all 
 the trenches, approaches, and mines, etc., 
 of the besiegers ; and in particular I took 
 special notice of the wheel -bridge, which 
 engine his Excellency had made to run 
 over the moat when they stormed the 
 castle ; as it is since described (with all the 
 other particulars of this siege) by the author 
 of that incomparable work, Hollandia 
 Illustrata. 1 The walls and ramparts 
 of earth, which a mine had broken 
 and crumbled, were of prodigious thick- 
 ness. 
 
 Upon the 8th August I dined in the 
 horse-quarters with Sir Robert Stone and 
 his lady, Sir William Stradling, and clivers 
 Cavaliers ; where there was very good 
 cheer, but hot service for a young drinker, 
 as then I was ; so that, being pretty well 
 satisfied with the confusion of armies and 
 sieges (if such that of the United Provinces 
 may be called, where their quarters and 
 encampments are so admirably regular, 
 and orders so exactly observed, as few 
 cities, the best governed in time of peace, 
 exceed it for all conveniences), I took my 
 leave of the leaguer and camarades ; and, 
 on the 1 2th of August, I embarked on the 
 Waal, in company with three grave divines, 
 who entertained us a great part of our 
 passage with a long dispute concerning the 
 lawfulness of church -music. We now 
 sailed by Tiel, where we landed some of 
 our freight ; and about five o'clock we 
 touched at a pretty town named Bommel, 
 that had divers English in garrison. It 
 
 1 [Evelyn probably intends the Batavia Illus- 
 trate* of Peter Schryver or Scriverius, 1609.] 
 
 stands upon Contribution -land, which 
 subjects the environs to the Spanish in- 
 cursions. We sailed also by an exceeding 
 strong fort called Loevestein, 1 famous for 
 the escape of the learned Hugo Grotius, 
 who, being in durance as a capital offender, 
 as was the unhappy Barneveldt, 2 by the 
 stratagem of his lady, was conveyed in a 
 trunk supposed to be filled with books 
 only. We lay at Gorcum, 3 a very strong 
 and considerable frontier. 
 
 i^th. We arrived late at Rotterdam, 
 where was their annual mart or fair, so 
 furnished with pictures (especially land- 
 scapes and drolleries, 4 as they call those 
 clownish representations), that I was 
 amazed. Some of these I bought, and 
 sent into England. The reason of this 
 store of pictures, and their cheapness, pro- 
 ceeds from their want of land to employ 
 their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing 
 to find a common farmer lay out two or 
 three thousand pounds in this commodity. 
 Their houses are full of them, and they 
 vend them at their fairs to very great gains. 
 Here I first saw an elephant, who was 
 extremely well disciplined and obedient. 
 It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as 
 flexible and nimble in the joints, contrary 
 to the vulgar tradition, as could be imagined 
 from so prodigious a bulk and strange 
 fabric; 5 but I most of all admired the 
 dexterity and strength of its proboscis, on 
 which it was able to support two or three 
 men, and by which it took and reached 
 whatever was offered to it ; its teeth were 
 but short, being a female, and not old. I 
 was also shown a pelican, or onocratalus 
 of Pliny, with its large gullets, in which he 
 kept his reserve of fish ; the plumage was 
 
 1 [Loevestein is at the extremity of an island 
 formed by the junction of the Maas and the Waal. 
 Hugo de Groot or Grotius, 1583-1645, escaped from 
 it in the manner described, 21st March, 1621.] 
 
 2 [Johan van Olden Barneveldt, 1547-1619,3 
 Dutch statesman and Arminian, beheaded by the 
 States-General at the Hague, 14th May, 1619.] 
 
 3 [Or Gorinchem.] 
 
 4 [Drolleries were pictures of low humour. Fal- 
 staff recommends Mrs. Quickly "a pretty slight 
 drollery" for the walls of her Eastcheap Tavern 
 (2 Henry IV. Act II. Sc. i.).] 
 
 5 ["The elephant hath joints, but none for 
 courtesy : his legs are legs for necessity, not for 
 flexure" (Troilus and Cressida, Act II. Sc. iii.). 
 "That an Elephant hathno joints," etc. — is the 
 title of Chap. i. of Book iii. of the Pseudodoxia 
 Epidemica of Sir Thomas Browne.] 
 
H 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1641 
 
 white, legs red, flat, and film -footed: 
 likewise a cock with four legs, two rumps 
 and vents : also a hen which had two large 
 spurs growing out of her sides, penetrating 
 the feathers of her wings. 1 
 
 17th. August. I passed again through 
 Delft, and visited the church in which was 
 the monument of Prince William of Nassau, 
 — the first of the Williams, and saviour (as 
 they call him) of their liberty, which cost 
 him his life by a vile assassination. 2 It is 
 a piece of rare art, consisting of several 
 figures, as big as the life, in copper. 
 There is in the same place a magnificent 
 tomb of his son and successor, Maurice. 3 
 The Senate -house hath a very stately 
 portico, supported with choice columns of 
 black marble, as I remember, of one 
 entire stone. Within, there hangs a 
 weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter- 
 churn, which the adventurous woman that 
 hath two husbands at one time is to wear 
 on her shoulders, her head peeping out at 
 the top only, and so led about the town, 
 as a penance for her incontinence. From 
 hence, we went the next day to Ryswyk, a 
 stately country - house of the Prince of 
 Orange, 4 for nothing more remarkable 
 than the delicious walks planted with lime 
 trees, and the modern paintings within. 
 
 19//Z. We returned to the Hague, 
 and went to visit the Hof, or Prince's 
 Court, with the adjoining gardens full of 
 ornament, close walks, statues, marbles, 
 grots, fountains, and artificial music. 
 There is to this palace a stately hall, not 
 much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung 
 round with colours and other trophies 5 
 taken from the Spaniards ; and the sides 
 below are furnished with shops. Next 
 
 1 [" Hee offendfs] lesse who writes many toyes, 
 than he, who omits one serious thing " (Howell's 
 Forreine Travell, 1642, Sect, hi.).] 
 
 2 [William I. the Silent, Prince of Orange, 1533- 
 1584, was shot (July 10) in the Prinsenhof at Delft 
 (now the William of Orange Museum) by Balthasar 
 Gerards, a Burgundian agent of Philip II. of Spain. 
 His monument, by Hendrik de Keyser, is in the 
 Nieuwe Kerk.] 
 
 3 [Maurice of Nassau, 1567-1625.] 
 
 4 [The palace of Ryswyk, in which the" Treaties 
 of Peace were signed in 1697 (see post, under 2nd 
 December, 1697), was removed in 1783. An obelisk 
 was erected on the site.] 
 
 5 As Westminster Hall used to be down to the 
 beginning of the reign of George III. [The 
 banners taken at Naseby and Worcester, at Preston 
 and Dunbar and Blenheim, were^all to be hung in 
 it in the years to come.] 
 
 day (the 20th) I returned to Delft, thence 
 to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, 
 where immediately I mounted a waggon, 
 which that night, late as it was, brought 
 us to Haarlem. About seven in the morning 
 after I came to Amsterdam, where being 
 provided with a lodging, the first thing I 
 went to see was a Synagogue of the Jews 
 (being Saturday), whose ceremonies, orna- 
 ments, lamps, law, and schools, afforded 
 matter for my contemplation. The women 
 were secluded from the men, being seated 
 in galleries above, shut with lattices, 
 having their heads muffled with linen, after 
 a fantastical and somewhat extraordinary 
 fashion ; the men, wearing a large calico 
 mantle, yellow coloured, over their hats, 
 all the while waving their bodies, whilst at 
 their devotions. From thence, I went to 
 a place without the town, called Overkirk, 
 where they have a spacious field assigned 
 them to bury their dead, full of sepulchres 
 with Hebraic inscriptions, some of them 
 stately and costly. Looking through one 
 of these monuments, where the stones were 
 disjointed, I perceived divers books and 
 papers lie about a corpse ; for it seems, 
 when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury 
 some of his books with him. With the 
 help of a stick, I raked out several, written 
 in Hebrew characters, but much impaired. 
 As we returned, we stepped in to see the 
 Spin -house, a kind of bridewell, where 
 incorrigible and lewd women are kept in 
 discipline and labour, but all neat. We 
 were showed an hospital for poor travellers 
 and pilgrims, built by Queen Elizabeth of 
 England ; and another maintained by the 
 city. 
 
 The State or Senate-house of this town, 
 if the design be perfected, will be one of 
 the most costly and magnificent pieces of 
 architecture in Europe, especially for the 
 materials and the carvings. In the Doole 
 is painted, on a very large table, 1 the bust 
 of Marie de Medicis, supported by four 
 royal diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, 
 who hath set his name thereon, 1st Sep- 
 tember, 1638. 
 
 On Sunday I heard an English sermon 
 at the Presbyterian congregation, where 
 they had chalked upon a slate the psalms 
 
 1 [The tablet or panel on which a picture is 
 painted. Evelyn frequently uses the term for the 
 picture itself (see post, under 8th October, 1641).] 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 15 
 
 that were to be sung, so that all the con- 
 gregation might see it without the bidding 
 of a clerk. I was told, that after such an 
 age no minister was permitted to preach, 
 but had his maintenance continued during 
 life. * 
 
 I purposely changed my lodgings, being 
 desirous to converse with the sectaries 
 that swarmed in this city, out of whose 
 spawn came those almost innumerable 
 broods in England afterwards. It was at 
 a Brownist's house, 1 where we had an 
 extraordinary good table. There was in 
 pension with us my Lord Keeper, 2 Finch, 
 and one Sir J. Fotherbee. Her© I also 
 found an English Carmelite, who was 
 going through Germany with an Irish 
 gentleman. I now went to see the Weese- 
 house, a foundation like our Charter-house, 
 for the education of decayed persons, 
 orphans, and poor children, where they 
 are taught several occupations. The girls 
 are so well brought up to housewifery, 
 that men of good worth, who seek that 
 chiefly in a woman, frequently take their 
 wives from this hospital. Thence to the 
 Rasp-house, where the lusty knaves are 
 compelled to work ; and the rasping of 
 brasil and logwood for the dyers is very 
 hard labour. To the Dool-house, 3 for 
 madmen and fools. But none did I so 
 much admire, as an Hospital for their lame 
 and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where 
 the accommodations are very great, the 
 building answerable ; and, indeed, for the 
 like public charities the provisions are 
 admirable in this country, where, as no 
 idle vagabonds are suffered (as in England 
 they are), there is hardly a child of four or 
 five years old, but they find some employ- 
 ment for it. 4 
 
 1 [The Brownists were a separatist sect founded 
 by Robert Browne (i55o?-i633?), the reputed first 
 Congregationalism who boasted, on his death-bed, 
 that he had been in thirty-two prisons during his 
 religious warfare with the established authorities.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 12.] 
 
 3 [Dolkuis. mad-house.] 
 
 4 In the early editions of this Diary, the entry 
 relating to the Amsterdam Hospital stood thus : — 
 " But none did I so much admire as an Hospitall 
 for their lame and decrepid souldiers, it being for 
 state, order, and ac'om'odations, one of the worthiest 
 things that the world can shew of that nature. 
 Indeede it is most remarkable what provisions are 
 here made and maintain'd for publiq and charitable 
 purposes, and to protect the poore from misery, 
 and the country i'rom beggers " {Diary, 1827, i. 29). 
 
 It was on a Sunday morning that I went 
 to the Bourse, or Exchange, after their 
 sermons were ended, to see the Dog- 
 market, which lasts till two in the after- 
 noon, in this place of convention of 
 merchants from all parts -of the world. 
 The building is not comparable to that of 
 London, built by that worthy citizen, Sir 
 Thomas Gresham, yet in one respect ex- 
 ceeding it, that vessels of considerable 
 burden ride at the very quay contiguous 
 to it ; and indeed it is by extraordinary 
 industry that as well this city, as generally 
 all the towns of Holland, are so accommo- 
 dated with grachts [canals], cuts, sluices, 
 moles, and rivers, md.de by hand, that 
 nothing is more frequent than to see a 
 whole navy, belonging to this mercantile 
 people, riding at anchor before their very 
 doors : and yet their streets even, straight, 
 and well paved, the houses so uniform and 
 planted with lime trees, as nothing can be 
 more beautiful. 1 
 
 The next day we were entertained at a 
 kind of tavern, called the Briloft, apper- 
 taining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the 
 upper rooms of the house, were divers 
 pretty water- works, rising 108 feet from 
 the ground. Here were many quaint de- 
 vices, fountains, artificial music, noises of 
 beasts, and chirping of birds ; but what 
 pleased me most was a large pendent 
 candlestick, branching into several sockets, 
 furnished all with ordinary candles to 
 appearance, out of the wicks spouting out 
 
 The passage in the text is from Evelyn's own later 
 correction. It should be noted, in connection with 
 this remark on the hospital of Amsterdam, that the 
 first stone of Greenwich Hospital was afterwards 
 laid by Evelyn (see post, 30th June, 1696). 
 
 1 Some slight differences are observable in the 
 description of the Dutch towns as it stands in the 
 earlier editions. It may be worth while, — where 
 the change does not simply consist, as for the most 
 part is the case, in a more full and careful repro- 
 duction of the original text, but, as happens occa- 
 sionally, in the substitution of Evelyn's later 
 corrections for his earlier and less finished text, — 
 to preserve in these notes the text as first printed. 
 The last six lines of the above are in the first 
 version *as follows: — ". . . moles, and rivers, that 
 nothing-is more frequent then to see a whole navy 
 of marchands and others environ 'd with streetes 
 and houses, every man's barke or vessel at anker 
 before his very doore ; and yet the street so 
 exactly straite, even, and uniforme, that nothing 
 can be more pleasing, especialy being so frequently 
 planted and shaded with the beautifull lime-t'ees, 
 set in rows before every man's house " {Diary, 
 1827, i. 29). 
 
i6 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1641 
 
 streams of water, instead of flames. This 
 seemed then and was a rarity, before the 
 philosophy of compressed air made it 
 intelligible. There was likewise a cylinder 
 that entertained the company with a variety 
 of chimes, the hammers striking upon the 
 brims of porcelain dishes, suited to the 
 tones and notes, without cracking any of 
 them. Many other water -works were 
 shown. 
 
 The Keiser's or Emperor's Gracht, 
 which is an ample and long street, appear- 
 ing like a city in a forest ; the lime trees 
 planted just before each house, and at the 
 margin of that goodly aqueduct so curiously 
 wharfed with clinkered brick, which like- 
 wise paves the streets, than which nothing 
 can be more useful and neat. This part 
 of Amsterdam is built and gained upon the 
 main sea, supported by piles at an immense 
 charge, and fitted for the most busy con- 
 course of traffickers and people of com- 
 merce beyond any place, or mart, in the 
 world. Nor must I forget the port of 
 entrance into an issue of this town, com- 
 posed of very magnificent pieces of archi- 
 tecture, some of the ancient and best 
 manner ; as are divers churches. 1 
 
 The turrets, or steeples, are adorned 
 after a particular manner and invention ; 
 the chimes of bells are so rarely managed, 
 that being curious to know whether the 
 motion was from any engine, I went up to 
 
 1 The description of the Briloft is thus given in 
 the earlier editions : " There was a lampe of brasse, 
 with eight socketts from the middle stem, like 
 those we use in churches, haying counterfeit tapers 
 in them, streams of water issuing as out of their 
 wickes, the whole branch hanging loose upon a 
 tach ["catch" or "fastening"] in the middst of a 
 beame, and without any other perceptible com'erce 
 with any pipe, so that, unless it were by compres- 
 sion of the ayre with a syringe, I could not compre- 
 hend how it should be don. There was a chime of 
 purselan dishes, which fitted to clock-worke and 
 rung many changes and tunes" {Diary, 1827, 
 i. 30). That of the Keiser's Gracht stands thus : 
 "The Keisers Graft, or Emperors Streete, appears 
 a citty in a wood through the goodly ranges of the 
 stately lime-trees planted before each man's doore, 
 and at the margent of that goodly aquas-duct, or 
 river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of 
 white sun-bak'd brick), and of which material the 
 spacious streetes on either side are paved. This 
 part of Amsterdam is gained upon the maine Sea, 
 supported by piles at an im'ense charge. Prodigious 
 it is to consider the multitude of vessels which 
 continually ride before this Citty, which is certainly 
 the most busie concourse of mortalls now upon the 
 whole earth, and the most addicted to com'erce" 
 (id. i. 30). 
 
 that of St. Nicholas, where I found one 
 who played all sorts of compositions from 
 the tablature before him, as if he had 
 fingered an organ ; for so were the hammers 
 fastened with wires to several keys put 
 into a frame twenty feet below the bells, 
 upon which (by help of a wooden instru- 
 ment, not much unlike a weaver's shuttle, 
 that guarded his hand) he struck on the 
 keys and played to admiration. All this 
 while, through the clattering of the wires, 
 din of the too nearly sounding bells, and 
 noise that his wooden gloves made, the 
 confusion was so great, that it was impos- 
 sible for the musician, or any that stood 
 near him, to hear anything himself; yet, 
 to those at a distance, and especially in 
 the streets, the harmony and the time were 
 the most exact and agreeable. 
 
 The south church is richly paved with 
 black and white marble, — the west is a new 
 fabric ; and generally all the churches in 
 Holland are furnished with organs, lamps, 
 and monuments, carefully preserved from 
 the fury and impiety of popular reformers, 
 whose zeal has foolishly transported them 
 in other places rather to act like madmen 
 than religious. 1 
 
 Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went 
 amongst the book-sellers, and visited the 
 famous Hondius 2 and Bleaw's 3 shop, to 
 buy some maps, atlasses, and other works 
 of that kind. 4 At another shop, I furnished 
 myself with some shells and Indian curiosi- 
 ties ; and so, towards the end of August, I 
 returned again to Haarlem by the river, 
 ten miles in length, straight as a line, and 
 of competent breadth for ships to sail by 
 one another. They showed us a cottage/ 
 where, they told us, dwelt a woman who| 
 
 1 [See post, under 10th October, 1641, with refer- 
 ence to the destruction of the windows of Canterbury 
 Cathedral.] 
 
 2 [There were several artists named Hondius or 
 De Hondt. This was William Hondius, the son of 
 Henry. He was living in Holland at this date, 
 and is " celebrated " for his " Mapps " in Sculptura, 
 chap, iv.] 
 
 3 [William Jansen Blaeuw, 157 1 - 1638, geo- 
 grapher, printer, and friend of Tycho Brahe. His 
 Theatrum Mundi, 1663-71, was published by his 
 son John (d. 1680), probably here referred to.] 
 
 4 The entry as to the booksellers, etc., is thus 
 expressed in the earlier edition : " I went to 
 Hundius's shop to buy some mapps, greatly pleased 
 with thedesignes of that indefatigable person. Mr. 
 Bleaw, the setter forth of the Atlas's and other 
 workes of that kind, is worthy seeing" (Diary, 
 1827, i. 32). 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 17 
 
 had been married to her twenty -fifth 
 husband, and being now a widow, was 
 prohibited to marry in future ; yet it could 
 not be proved that she had ever made away 
 with any of her husbands, though the 
 suspicion had brought her divers times to 
 trouble. 
 
 Haarlem is a very delicate town, and 
 hath one of the fairest churches of the 
 Gothic design I had ever seen. 1 There 
 hang in the steeple, which is very high, two 
 silver bells, said to have been brought from 
 Damietta, in Egypt, by an earl of Holland, 
 in memory of whose success they are rung 
 out every evening. In the nave, hang the 
 goodliest branches of brass for tapers that 
 I have seen, esteemed of great value for 
 the curiosity of the workmanship ; also a 
 fair pair of organs, which I could not find 
 they made use of in divine service, or so 
 much as to assist them in singing psalms, 
 but only for show, and to recreate the 
 people before and after their devotions, 
 . whilst the burgomasters were walking and 
 conferring about their affairs. Near the 
 west window hang two models of ships, 
 completely equipped, in memory of that 
 invention of saws under their keels, with 
 which they cut through the chain of booms, 
 which barred the port of Damietta. Having 
 visited this church, the fish-market, and 
 made some inquiry about the printing- 
 house, the invention whereof is said to have 
 been in this town, 2 I returned to Leyden. 
 
 At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, 
 or Pyrgus, built on a very steep artificial 
 mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist 
 the Saxon, on his return out of England, 
 as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden 
 inundations. 
 
 The churches are many and fair ; in 
 one of them lies buried the learned and 
 illustrious Joseph Scaliger, 3 without any 
 extraordinary inscription, who, having left 
 the world a monument of his worth more 
 lasting than marble, needed nothing more 
 than his own name ; which I think is all 
 
 1 [The Groote Kerk. It was restored throughout 
 at the end of the last century.] 
 
 2 [The invention of printing, now given to 
 Gutenberg (see/ost, p. 18), was formerly attributed 
 to Laurens Janszoon Coster of Haarlem, whose 
 statue in bronze, erected in 1856, stands in front of 
 the Groote Kerk.] * 
 
 3 [Joseph Justus Scaliger, 1540-1609. His monu- 
 ment is in the south transept of the Church of St. 
 Peter.] 
 
 engraven on his sepulchre. He left his 
 library to this University. 
 
 28M August. I went to see the college 
 and schools, which are nothing extra- 
 ordinary, and was complimented with a 
 matricula by the magnificus Professor, who 
 first in Latin demanded of me where my 
 lodging in the town was, my name, age, 
 birth, and to what *Faculty I addicted 
 myself; then, recording my answers in a 
 book, he administered an oath to me that 
 I should observe the statutes and orders of 
 the University whilst I stayed, and then 
 delivered me a ticket, by virtue whereof I 
 was made excise-free ; for all which worthy 
 privileges, and the pains of writing, he 
 accepted of a rix-dollar. 
 
 Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, 1 
 whom I so longed to see, as well as the no 
 less famous printer Elzevir's printing-house 
 and shop, 2 renowned for the politeness of 
 the character and editions of what he has 
 published through Europe. Hence to the 
 physic -garden, 3 well stored with exotic 
 plants, if the catalogue presented to me by 
 the gardener be a faithful register. 
 
 But, amongst all the rarities of this place, 
 I was much pleased with a sight of their 
 anatomy -school, theatre, and repository 
 adjoining, 4 which is well furnished with 
 natural curiosities ; skeletons, from the 
 whale and elephant to the fly and spider ; 
 which last is a very delicate piece of art, to 
 see how the bones (if I may so call them of 
 so tender an insect) could be separated 
 from the mucilaginous parts of that minute 
 
 1 Daniel Heinsius, 1580-1655, a Dutch scholar 
 and critic, who edited numerous editions of the 
 Classics. He was chosen professor of history and 
 politics at Leyden ; then secretary and librarian of 
 the University. In 1618, he was appointed secretary 
 to the states of Holland at the Synod of Dort ; and 
 the fame of his learning became so diffused, that 
 the Pope endeavoured to draw him to Rome. 
 
 2 [Bonaventura(i583-i654), and Abraham Elzevir 
 or Elzevier (1 592-1652), established the Officina 
 Elzeveriana at Leyden in 1626 ; and it was con- 
 tinued by their descendants.] 
 
 3 [The Botanic Garden behind the University.] 
 
 4 [The Natural History Museum, which includes 
 a famous Department of Comparative Anatomy. 
 Thoresby, 1678, speaks of all these places : — " At 
 Leyden, we saw the Physic Garden, stocked with 
 great variety of foreign trees, herbs, etc., and the 
 Anatomy Theatre, which has the skeletons of 
 almost all manner of beasts, rare as well as common, 
 and human of both sexes, etc. There is a most 
 curious collection of rarities, heathen idols, Indian 
 arrows, garments, armour, money, etc. " (Thoresby's 
 Diary \ 1830, i. 18-19).] 
 
i8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 L1041 
 
 animal. Amongst a great variety of other 
 things, I was shown the knife newly taken 
 out of a drunken Dutchman's guts, by an 
 incision in his side, after it had slipped from 
 his fingers into his stomach. The pictures 
 of the chirurgeon and his patient, both 
 living, were there. 
 
 There is without the town a fair Mall, 
 curiously planted. * 
 
 Returning to my lodging, I was showed 
 the statue, cut in stone, of the happy monk, 
 whom they report to have been the first 
 inventor of typography, set over the door ; 
 but this is much controverted by others, 
 who strive for the glory of it, besides John 
 Gutenburg. 1 
 
 I was brought acquainted with a Bur- 
 gundian Jew, who had married an apostate 
 Kentish woman. I asked him divers ques- 
 tions : he told me, amongst other things, 
 that the World should never end ; that our 
 souls transmigrated, and that even those of 
 the most holy persons did penance in the 
 bodies of brutes after death, — and so he 
 interpreted the banishment and savage life 
 of Nebuchadnezzar : that all the Jews 
 should rise again, and be led to Jerusalem ; 
 that the Romans only were the occasion of 
 our Saviour's death, whom he affirmed (as 
 the Turks do) to be a great prophet, but 
 not the Messiah. He showed me several 
 books of their devotion, which he had 
 translated into English, for the instruction 
 of his wife ; he told me that when the 
 Messiah came, all the ships, barks, and 
 vessels of Holland should, by the power of 
 certain strange whirlwinds, be loosed from 
 their anchors, and transported in a moment 
 to all the desolate ports and havens through- 
 out the world, wherever the dispersion was, 
 to convey their brethren and tribes to the 
 Holy City ; with other such like stuff. He 
 was a merry drunken fellow, but would by 
 no means handle any money (for something 
 I purchased of him), it being Saturday ; 
 but desired me to leave it in the window, 
 meaning to receive it on Sunday morning. 
 
 1st September. I went to Delft and 
 Rotterdam, and two days after back to the 
 Hague, to bespeak a suit of horseman's 
 armour, which I caused to be made to fit 
 me. I now rode out of town to see the 
 
 1 [John Gutenberg, or Gensfleisch, 1399-1468, 
 who printed the Mazarin Bible at Mentz from 
 movable metal types in 1450-55.] 
 
 monument of the woman, pretended to 
 have been a countess of Holland, reported 
 to have had as many children at one birth, 
 as there are days in the year. The basins 
 were hung up in which they were baptized, 
 together with a large description of the 
 matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in 
 the church of Lysdun [Loosduinen], a deso- 
 late place. 1 As I returned, I diverted to see 
 one of the Prince's Palaces, called the Hof 
 Van Hounsler's Dyck, a very fair cloistered 
 and quadrangular building. The gallery is 
 prettily painted with several huntings, and 
 at one end a gordian knot, with rustical 
 instruments so artificially represented, as 
 to deceive an accurate eye to distinguish it 
 from actual rilievo. The ceiling of the 
 staircase is painted with the "Rape of 
 Ganymede," and other pendent figures, the 
 work of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I 
 bought an excellent drollery, 2 which I 
 afterwards parted with to my brother 
 George of Wotton, where it now hangs. 3 
 To this palace join a fair garden and park, 
 curiously planted with limes. 
 
 %th. Returned to Rotterdam, through 
 Delftshaven and Sedan, where were at that 
 time Colonel Goring's winter quarters. 
 This town has heretofore been very much 
 talked of for witches. 4 
 
 loth. I took a waggon for Dort, to be 
 present at the reception of the Queen- 
 mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager of 
 France, widow of Henry the Great, 5 and 
 mother to the French King, Louis XIII., 
 and the Queen of England, whence she 
 newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the 
 various fortune of her life. From this city, 
 she designed for Cologne, conducted by the 
 Earl of Arundel 6 and the Herr Van Brede- 
 rode. At this interview, I saw the Princess 
 
 1 [The lady of whom this apocryphal story is told 
 was Margaret, Countess of Henneberg, daughter of 
 Florence IV. of Holland ; and the date is March 
 26th, 1276 — then the second day of the year.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 13.] 
 
 3 [It is still there, and is said to have been bought 
 6th September, 1641. The Covenberg mentioned 
 is Christiaan van Kouwenberg, 1604-67, a pupil of 
 Jan van Nes. He studied in Italy ; did many 
 works for the Prince of Orange at the chateau of 
 Ryswyk and the Palace in the Wood ; and died at 
 Cologne.] 
 
 4 ["Sedan" is Forster's modernization of Evelyn's 
 " Seedam " in Bray's text. The word, Mr. A. 
 Hfggs points out, should plainly be "Schiedam."] 
 
 5 [Henry IV., 1553-1610.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 9.] 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 19 
 
 of Orange, and the lady her daughter, 
 afterwards married to the House of Branden- 
 burgh. There was little remarkable in 
 this reception befitting the greatness of her 
 person ; but an universal discontent, which 
 accompanied that unlucky woman wherever 
 she went. 1 
 
 \2th SepteTnber. I went towards Bois-le- 
 Duc, 2 where we arrived on the 16th, at the 
 time when the new citadel was advancing, 
 with innumerable hands, and incomparable 
 inventions for draining off the waters out of 
 the fens and morasses about it, being by 
 buckets, mills, cochleas, 3 pumps, and the 
 like ; in which the Hollanders are the most 
 expert in Europe. Here were now sixteen 
 companies and nine troops of horse. They 
 were also cutting a new river, to pass from 
 the town to a castle not far from it. Here 
 we split our skiff, falling foul upon another 
 through negligence of the master, who 
 was fain to run aground, to our no little 
 hazard. At our arrival, a soldier con- 
 veyed us to the Governor, where our 
 names were taken, and our persons ex- 
 amined very strictly. 
 
 17M. I was permitted to walk the round 
 and view the works, and to visit a convent 
 of religious women of the order of St. Clara 
 {who by the capitulation were allowed to 
 enjoy their monastery and maintenance un- 
 disturbed, at the surrender of the town 
 twelve years since), where we had a colla- 
 tion and very civil entertainment. They 
 had a neat chapel, in which the heart of 
 the Duke of Cleves, their founder, lies in- 
 humed under a plate of brass. Within the 
 cloister is a garden, and in the middle of it 
 an overgrown lime-tree, out of whose stem, 
 
 1 [In 1638 she had come to England from Holland. 
 But the popular hatred of popery drove her back 
 again in August, 1641. Lilly, the astrologer, thus 
 speaks of her at this time: — "I beheld the Old 
 Queen Mother of France departing from London, 
 in Company of Thomas Earl of Arundel', a sad 
 Spectacle of Mortality it was, and produced Tears 
 from mine Eyes, and many other Beholders, to see 
 an Aged lean decrepid poor Queen, ready for her 
 Grave, necessitated to depart hence, having no 
 Place of Residence in this World left her " (Life 
 and Death of King Charles, 1715, p. 49). Holland 
 declined to harbour her, and she sought an asylum 
 in the electorate of Cologne, where she died, 3rd 
 July, 1642. There is a portrait of her by the 
 younger Pourbus at Hampton Court, apparently 
 painted subsequent to the assassination of Henry 
 IV. by Ravaillac in 1610.] 
 
 2 ['S Hertogenbosch or 'S Bosch in Dutch.] 
 
 3 [The spiral water-screw of Archimedes.] 
 
 near the root, issue five upright and exceed- 
 ing tall suckers, or bolls, the like whereof 
 for evenness and height I had not observed. 
 
 The chief church of this city is curiously 
 carved within and without, furnished with 
 a pair of organs, and a most magnificent 
 font of copper. 1 
 
 18M. I went to see that most impreg- 
 nable town and fort of Heusden, where I 
 was exceedingly obliged -to one Colonel 
 Crombe, the lieutenant-governor, who 
 would needs make me accept the honour 
 of being captain of the watch, and to give 
 the word this night. The fortification is 
 very irregular, but esteemed one of the 
 most considerable for strength and situation 
 in the Netherlands. We departed towards 
 Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelm Digby, 2 travel- 
 ling towards Cologne, met us. 
 
 The next morning, the 19th, we ar- 
 rived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, 
 where they catch innumerable quantities 
 of fowl. 
 
 22nd. I went again to Rotterdam 
 to receive a pass which I expected from 
 Brussels, securing me through Brabant 
 and Flanders, designing to go into 
 England through those countries. The 
 Cardinal Infante, 3 brother to the King 
 of Spain, was then governor. By this 
 pass, having obtained another from the 
 Prince of Orange, upon the 24th of 
 September I departed through Dort ; but 
 met with very bad tempestuous weather, 
 being several times driven back, and 
 obliged to lie at anchor off Keele, other 
 vessels lying there waiting better weather. 
 The 25th and 26th we made other essays ; 
 
 1 [The Cathedral of St. John, one of the three 
 most important mediaeval churches in Holland. 
 The copper font in the baptistery dates from 1402.] 
 
 2 [Sir Kenelm Digby, 1603-65, author, courtier, 
 sailor, and diplomatist. He was the only son of 
 Sir Everard Digby, executed for his share in the 
 Gunpowder Plot. Knighted by James I. in 1623, 
 Sir Kenelm had successfully commanded a priva- 
 teering squadron in the Mediterranean against the 
 French and Venetians in 1628 ; and he had already 
 married and lost his wife, the beautiful Venetia 
 Stanley, 1633. ^ n this year (1641), he fought a 
 duel at Paris with a certain Mont de Ros, who had 
 maligned King Charles, and he killed his man. 
 His curious Private Memoirs were published in 
 1827 with an Introduction by Sir Harris Nicolas ; 
 and his life was written in 1896 [by T. Longueville], 
 There are portraits of him by Vandyck and Cor- 
 nelius Janssen. (See post, under 7th November, 
 1651.)] 
 
 3 [See ante> p. 11 «.] 
 
20 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1641 
 
 but were again repulsed to the harbour, 
 where lay sixty vessels waiting to sail. 
 But, on the 27th, we, impatient of the 
 time and inhospitableness of the place, 
 sailed again with a contrary and im- 
 petuous wind and a terrible sea, in great 
 jeopardy ; for we had much ado to keep 
 ourselves above water, the billows breaking 
 desperately on our vessel : we were driven 
 into Willemstad, a place garrisoned by the 
 English, where the Governor had a fair 
 house. The works, and especially the 
 counterscarp, are curiously hedged with 
 quick, and planted with a stately row of 
 limes on the rampart. The church is of a 
 round structure, with a cupola, and the 
 town belongs entirely to the Prince of 
 Orange, as does that of Breda, and some 
 other places. 
 
 28th September. Failing of an appoint- 
 ment, I was constrained to return to Dort 
 for a bill of exchange ; but it was the 1st of 
 October ere I could get back. At Keele, 
 I numbered 141 vessels, who durst not yet 
 venture out ; but, animated by the master 
 of a stout barque, after a small encounter 
 of weather, we arrived by four that evening 
 at Steenbergen. In the passage we sailed 
 over a sea called the Plaats, an exceeding 
 dangerous water, by reason of two contrary 
 tides which meet there very impetuously. 
 Here, because of the many shelves, we 
 were forced to tide it along the channel ; 
 but, ere we could gain the place, the ebb 
 was so far spent, that we were compelled 
 to foot it at least two long miles, through 
 a most pelting shower of rain. 
 
 2nd October. With a gentleman of the 
 Rhyngrave's, I went in a cart, or tumbrel 
 (for it was no better ; no other accommo- 
 dation could be procured), of two wheels 
 and one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting 
 by the way divers parties of his Highness's 
 army now retiring towards their winter 
 quarters ; the convoy skiffs riding by 
 thousands along the harbour. The fort 
 was heretofore built by the English. 
 
 The next morning, I embarked for Lillo, 
 having refused a convoy of horse which 
 was offered me. The tide being against 
 us, we landed short of the fort on the 
 beach, where we marched half leg deep in 
 mud, ere we could gain the dyke, which, 
 being five or six miles from Lillo, we were 
 forced to walk on foot very wet and dis- 
 
 composed ; and then entering a boat we 
 passed the ferry, and came to the castle. 
 Being taken before the Governor, he 
 demanded my pass, to which he set his 
 hand, and asked two rix-dollars for a fee, 
 which methought appeared very exorbitant 
 in a soldier of his quality. I told him that 
 I had already purchased my pass of the 
 commissaries at Rotterdam ; at which, in 
 a great fury, snatching the paper out of my 
 hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, 
 and bade me try whether I could get to 
 Antwerp without his permission : but I 
 had no sooner given him the dollars, than 
 he returned the passport surlily enough, 
 and made me pay fourteen Dutch shillings 
 to the cantone, or searcher, for my con- 
 tempt, which I was glad to do for fear of 
 further trouble, should he have discovered 
 my Spanish pass, in which the States were 
 therein treated by the name of rebels. 
 Besides all these exactions, I gave the 
 commissary six shillings, to the soldiers 
 something, and, ere perfectly clear of this 
 frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of- 
 war, who lay blocking up the river betwixt 
 Lillo and the opposite sconce called Lief- 
 kenshoek. 
 
 <\tk. We sailed by several Spanish 
 forts, out of one of which, St. Mary's 
 port, came a Don on board us, to whom 
 I showed my Spanish pass, which he 
 signed, and civilly dismissed us. Hence, 
 sailing by another man-of-war, to which 
 we lowered our topsails, we at length 
 arrived at Antwerp. 
 
 The lodgings here are very handsome 
 and convenient. I lost little time ; but, 
 with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner, our 
 conductor, we visited divers churches, 
 colleges, and monasteries. The Church 
 of the Jesuits is most sumptuous and 
 magnificent ; a glorious fabric without and 
 within, wholly incrusted with marble, inlaid 
 and polished into divers representations of 
 histories, landscapes, and flowers. On the 
 high altar is placed the statue of the 
 Blessed Virgin and our Saviour in white 
 marble, with a boss in the girdle set with 
 very fair and rich sapphires, and divers 
 other stones of price. The choir is a 
 glorious piece of architecture : the pulpit 
 supported by four angels, and adorned 
 with other carvings, and rare pictures by 
 Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 21 
 
 tables and relics. 1 Hence, to the Vrouw 
 Kirk, or Notre Dame of Antwerp : it is a 
 very venerable fabric, built after the Gothic 
 manner, especially the tower, which I 
 ascended, the better to take a view of the 
 country adjacent ; 2 which, happening on a 
 day when the sun shone exceedingly bright, 
 and darted his rays without any interrup- 
 tion, afforded so bright a reflection to us 
 who were above, and had a full prospect 
 of both land and water about it, that I was 
 much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's 
 being of some such substance as this earthly 
 globe : perceiving all the subjacent country, 
 at so small an horizontal distance, to re- 
 percuss such a light as I could hardly look 
 against, save where the river, and other 
 large water within our view, appeared of a 
 more dark and uniform colour ; resembling 
 those spots in the moon supposed to be 
 seas there, according to Hevelius, 3 and as 
 they appear in our late telescopes. 4 I 
 numbered in this church thirty privileged 
 altars, that of St. Sebastian adorned with 
 a painting of his martyrdom. 
 
 [We went to see the Jerusalem Church, 
 affirm ed to have been founded by one who, 
 
 1 [St. Carlo Borromeo. Its pictures by Rubens, 
 witb exception of three altar-pieces, now in the 
 Imperial Museum of Vienna, were destroyed by 
 lightning in 1718. Rubens died May 30, 1640.] 
 
 2 ["The view from the upper gallery [of the 
 steeple] takes in the towers of Bergen-op-Zoom, 
 Flushing, Breda, Mechlin, Brussels, and Ghent" 
 (Murray's Handbook for Belgium, etc., 1852, 
 p. 54).] 
 
 3 [John Hevelius, or Hevelke, of Dantzic, 1611-87. 
 Evelyn refers to his Selenographies, in Sculptura.] 
 
 4 In the 1827 edition of the Diary, i. 42-43? tne 
 entry descriptive of the tower of Antwerp Cathedral 
 is thus given : — " It is a very venerable fabriq, 
 built after the Gotick manner ; the tower is of an 
 excessive height. This I ascended that I might 
 the better take a view of the country about it, 
 which happening on a day when the sun shonn 
 exceedingly hot, and darted the rayes without any 
 interruption, afforded so bright a reflection to us 
 who were above, and had a full prospect of both 
 land and water about it, that I was much confirmed 
 in my opinion of the moon's being of some such 
 substance as this earthly globe consists of; per- 
 ceiving all the subjacent country, at so small an 
 horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as I 
 could hardly look against, save where the river, 
 and other large water within our view, appeared of 
 a more dark and uniforme colour, resembling those 
 spotts in the moone supposed to be seas there, 
 according to our new philosophy, and viewed by 
 optical glasses. I numbered in this church 30 
 privileged altars, whereof that of St. Sebastian's 
 was rarely painted." Occasional sentences of the 
 preceding matter are entirely new. 
 
 upon divers great wagers, passed to and 
 fro between that city and Antwerp on foot, 
 by which he procured large sums of money, 
 which he bestowed on this pious structure. *] 
 Hence, to St. Mary's Chapel, where I had 
 some conference with two English Jesuits, 
 confessors to Colonel Jaye's regiment. 
 These fathers conducted us to the Cloister 
 of Nuns where we heard a Dutch sermon 
 upon the exposure of the Host. The 
 Senate-house of this city is a very spacious 
 and magnificent building. 
 
 $th October. I visited the Jesuits' School, 
 which, for the fame of their method, I 
 greatly desired to see. They were divided 
 into four classes, with several 2 inscriptions 
 over each: as, first, Ad major em Dei 
 gloriam ; over the second, Princeps dili- 
 gent l im ; the third, Imperator Byzantiorum ; 
 over the fourth and uppermost, Imperator 
 Romanorum. Under these, the scholars 
 and pupils had their places or forms, with 
 titles and priority according to their pro- 
 ficiency. Their dormitory and lodgings 
 above were exceedingly neat. They have 
 a prison for the offenders and less diligent ; 
 and, in an ample court to recreate them- 
 selves in, is an aviary, and a yard where 
 eagles, vultures, foxes, monkeys, and other 
 animals are kept, to divert the boys withal 
 at their hours of remission. To this school 
 join the music and mathematical schools, 
 and lastly, a pretty, neat chapel. The 
 great street is built after the Italian mode, 
 in the middle whereof is erected a glorious 
 crucifix of white and black marble, greater 
 than the life. This is a very fair and 
 noble street, clean, well paved, and sweet 
 to admiration. 
 
 The Oesters house, belonging to the 
 East India Company, is a stately palace, 
 adorned with more than 300 windows. 
 From hence, walking into the Gun-garden, 
 I was allowed to see as much of the citadel 
 as is permitted to strangers. It is a match- 
 
 1 This notice, slipped by accident into the entries 
 which refer to Antwerp, belongs to those of Bruges. 
 [The Jerusalem Church of Bruges, built in 1428, 
 takes its name from a copy of the Holy Sepulchre 
 which it contains, to reproduce which accurately 
 one of its founders, — the brothers Adornes, — is said 
 to have made no fewer than three journeys to the 
 Holy Land. Southey, who saw it in 1815, con- 
 sidered it a "most ridiculous puppet show" 
 {Journal of a Tour in the Netherlands 1903, 
 p. 225).] 
 
 2 [Separate.] 
 
22 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1641 
 
 less piece of modern fortification, accom- 
 modated with lodgments for the soldiers 
 and magazines. The grachts, ramparts, 
 and platforms are stupendous. Returning 
 by the shop of Plantin, 1 I bought some 
 books, for the name's sake only of that 
 famous printer. 
 
 But there was nothing about this city 
 which more ravished me than those de- 
 licious shades and walks of stately trees, 
 which render the fortified works of the 
 town one of the sweetest places in Europe ; 2 
 nor did I ever observe a more quiet, clean, 
 elegantly built, and civil place, than this 
 magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. 
 In the evening, I was invited to Signor 
 Duerte's, a Portuguese by nation, an ex- 
 ceeding rich merchant, whose palace I 
 found to be furnished like a prince's. His 
 three daughters entertained us with rare 
 music, vocal and instrumental, which was 
 finished with a handsome collation. I took 
 leave of the ladies and of sweet Antwerp, 
 as late as it was, embarking for Brussels 
 on the Scheldt in a vessel, which delivered 
 us to a second boat (in another river) drawn 
 or towed by horses. In this passage, we 
 frequently changed our barge, by reason 
 of the bridges thwarting our course. Here 
 I observed numerous families inhabiting 
 their vessels and floating dwellings, so 
 built and divided by cabins, as few houses 
 on land enjoyed better accommodation ; 
 stored with all sorts of utensils, neat 
 chambers, a pretty parlour, and kept so 
 sweet, that nothing could be more refresh- 
 ing. The rivers on which they are drawn 
 are very clear and still waters, and pass 
 through a most pleasant country on both 
 the banks. We had in our boat a very 
 good ordinary, and excellent company. 
 The cut is straight as a line for twenty 
 English miles. What I much admired was, 
 
 ft 
 
 1 [Christopher Plantin, 1514-69, — "first printer 
 to the King, and the King of printers." His 
 "shop," altered and extended by the architect, 
 Pierre Dens, is now the Plantin-Moretus Museum, 
 to which a delightful volume has been devoted by 
 Mr. Theo. L. De Vinne (Grolier Club, New York, 
 1888).] 
 
 a [Upon this Southey comments as follows : — 
 " Long will it be before any traveller can again 
 speak of the delicious shades and stately trees of 
 Antwerp ! Carnot, in preparing to defend the 
 place, laid what was then its beautiful environs as 
 bare as a desert " {Quarterly Review, April, 1818, 
 p. 5). Southey visited Antwerp in the Waterloo 
 year.] 
 
 near the midway, another artificial river, 
 which intersects this at right angles, but 
 on an eminence of ground, and is carried 
 in an aqueduct of stone so far above the 
 other, as that the waters neither mingle, 
 nor hinder one another's passage. 
 
 We came to a town called Villefrow, 
 where all the passengers went on shore to 
 wash at a fountain issuing out of a pillar, 
 and then came aboard again. On the 
 margin of this long tract are abundance of 
 shrines and images, defended from the 
 injuries of the weather by niches of stone 
 wherein they are placed. 
 
 *jth [6tk ?] October. We arrived at 
 Brussels at nine in the morning. The 
 Stadt-house, near the market-place, is, for 
 the carving in freestone, a most laborious 
 and finished piece, well worthy observation. 
 The flesh-shambles are also built of stone. 
 I was pleased with certain small engines, 
 by which a girl or boy was able to draw 
 up, or let down, great bridges, which in 
 divers parts of this city crossed the channel 
 for the benefit of passengers. The walls 
 of this town are very entire, and full of 
 towers at competent distances. The 
 cathedral is built upon a very high and 
 exceeding steep ascent, to which we 
 mounted by fair steps of stone. Hence I 
 walked to a convent of English Nuns, with 
 whom I sat discoursing most part of the 
 afternoon. 
 
 8fk [yt/i ?]. Being the morning I came 
 away, I went to see the Prince's Court, an 
 ancient, confused building, not much unlike 
 the Hof, at the Hague : there is here like- 
 wise a very large Hall, where they vend 
 all sorts of wares. Through this we passed 
 by the chapel, which is indeed rarely 
 arched, and in the middle of it was the 
 hearse, or catafalco, of the late Archduchess, 
 the wise and pious Clara Eugenia. 1 Out 
 of this we were conducted to the lodgings, 
 tapestried with incomparable arras, and 
 adorned with many excellent pieces of 
 Rubens, old and young Brueghel, 2 Titian, 
 and Steenwyck, with stories of most of the 
 late actions in the Netherlands. 
 
 1 [The Infanta Clara Isabella Eugenia (daughter 
 of Philip II.), to whom the " Spanish Netherlands " 
 were ceded in 1598 on her marriage with Albert, 
 Archduke of Austria, the Spanish Governor. He 
 died in 1621, and she reigned alone until 1633.] 
 
 2 [I.e. " Peasant " Brueghel, 1525-69, and his 
 son, " Hell-fire" Brueghel, 1564-1638.] ' 
 
1641] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 23 
 
 By an accident, we could not see the 
 library. There is a fair terrace which 
 looks to the vineyard, in which, on 
 pedestals, are fixed the statues of all the 
 Spanish kings of the house of Austria. 
 The opposite walls are painted by Rubens, 1 
 being a history of the late tumults in 
 Belgia ; in the last piece the Archduchess 
 shuts a great pair of gates upon Mars, who 
 is coming out of hell, armed, and in a 
 menacing posture ; which, with that other 
 of the Infanta taking leave of Don Philip 
 the Fourth, is a most incomparable table. 
 
 From hence, we walked into the park, 
 which for being entirely within the walls 
 of the city* is particularly remarkable : nor 
 is it less pleasant than if in the most solitary 
 recesses ; so naturally is it furnished with 
 whatever may render it agreeable, melan- 
 choly, 2 and country-like. Here is a stately 
 heronry, divers springs of water, artificial 
 cascades, rocks, grots ; one whereof is 
 composed of the extravagant roots of trees, 
 cunningly built and hung together with 
 wires. In this park are both fallow and 
 red deer. 
 
 From hence, we were led into the 
 manege, and out of that into a most sweet 
 and delicious garden, where was another 
 grot of more neat and costly materials, full 
 of noble statues, and entertaining us with 
 artificial music ; but the hedge of water, in 
 form of lattice-work, which the fountaineer 
 caused to ascend out of the earth by 
 degrees, exceedingly pleased and surprised 
 me ; for thus, with a pervious wall, or 
 rather a palisade hedge of water, was the 
 whole parterre environed. 
 
 There is likewise a fair aviary ; and in 
 the court next it are kept divers sorts of ani- 
 mals, rare and exotic fowl, as eagles, cranes, 
 storks, bustards, pheasants of several kinds, 
 and a duck having four wings. In another 
 division of the same close are rabbits of 
 an almost perfect yellow colour. 
 
 There was no Court now in the palace ; 
 the Infante Cardinal, who was the Governor 
 of Flanders, being dead but newly, and 
 every one in deep mourning. 3 
 
 At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his 
 
 1 [He was court painter to the Archduke and 
 his wife.] 
 
 3 [Evelyn probably means " retired," " suited to 
 contemplation."] 
 
 3 [Ferdinand of Spain, Governor of Flanders from 
 1633 to 1641, on the 9th November in which latter 
 
 Majesty's agent, Sir Henry de Vic, 1 who 
 very courteously received me, and accom- 
 modated me with a coach and six horses, 
 which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, 
 where it was to meet my Lord of Arundel, 
 Earl Marshal of England, 2 who had re- 
 quested me when I was at Antwerp to send 
 it for him, if I went not thither myself. 
 
 Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad 
 Court, yet full of gallant persons (for in 
 this small city, the acquaintance being 
 universal, ladies and gentlemen, I per- 
 ceived, had great diversions, and frequent 
 meetings), I hasted towards Ghent. On 
 the way, I met with divers little waggons, 
 prettily contrived, and full of peddling 
 merchandises, drawn by mastiff- dogs, 
 harnessed completely like so many coach- 
 horses ; in some four, in others six, as in 
 Brussels itself I had observed. In Antwerp 
 I saw, as I remember, four dogs draw five 
 lusty children in a chariot ; the master 
 commands them whither he pleases, crying 
 his wares about the streets. After passing 
 through Ouse, by six in the evening, I 
 arrived at Ghent. This is a city of so 
 great a circumference, that it is reported 
 to be seven leagues round ; but there is 
 not half of it now built, much of it remain- 
 ing in fields and desolate pastures even 
 within the walls, which have strong gates 
 towards the west, and two fair churches. 
 
 Here I beheld the palace wherein John 
 of Gaunt 3 and Charles V. were born ; 
 whose statue 4 stands in the market-place, 
 
 year he died at Brussels. He was the third son of 
 Philip III., and brother of Philip IV. See ante, 
 pp. 11 and 19.] 
 
 1 For twenty years resident at Brussels for 
 Charles II. ; also Chancellor of the Order of the 
 Garter ; and in 1662 appointed Comptroller of the 
 Household of the Duke of York. He died in 1672. 
 [He had long been in the English Service, and was 
 with Buckingham at Rochelle, concerning which 
 affair there are several letters from him to Lord Con- 
 way in Hardwicke's Collection of State Papers. His 
 only daughter, Anna Charlotta, married John Lord 
 Frescheville, Baron of Stave ley, in Derbyshire.] 
 
 2 [As already stated at p. 19, the Earl had 
 brought Marie de Medicis to the Continent. In 
 February, 1642, he left England again for good, 
 ostensibly acting as escort to Henrietta Maria and 
 Princess Mary (see post, under August, 1645).] 
 
 3 [In 1338-39 it had been the residence of Edward 
 III., and thus became the birthplace of Queen 
 Philippa's son.] 
 
 4 [Charles V. 's. It was destroyed in 1792; and 
 its site is now occupied by a bronze statue of 
 Jacques van Artevelde, by P. Devigne-Quyo 
 (1863).] 
 
2 4 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1641 
 
 upon a high pillar, with his sword drawn, 
 to which (as I was told) the magistrates 
 and burghers were wont to repair upon a 
 certain day every year with ropes about 
 their necks, in token of submission and 
 penance for an old rebellion of theirs ; but 
 now the hemp is changed into a blue 
 ribbon. Here is planted the basilisco, or 
 great gun, so much talked of. 1 The Lys 
 and the Scheldt meeting in this vast city, 
 divide it into twenty-six islands, which are 
 united by many bridges, somewhat re- 
 sembling Venice. This night I supped 
 with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant 
 and courteous priest. 
 
 %th October. I passed by boat to Bruges, 
 taking in at a redoubt a convoy of fourteen 
 musketeers, because the other side of the 
 river, being Contribution-land, was subject 
 to the inroads and depredations of the 
 bordering States. This river was cut by 
 the famous Marquis Spinola, and is in my 
 judgment a wonderful piece of labour, and 
 a worthy public work, being in some places 
 forced through the main rock, to an in- 
 credible depth, for thirty miles. At the 
 end of each mile is built a small redoubt, 
 which communicates a line to the next, 
 and so the whole way, from whence we 
 received many volleys of shot, in com- 
 pliment to my Lord Marshal,' 2 who was in 
 our vessel, a passenger with us. At five 
 that evening, we were met by the magis- 
 trates of Bruges, who came out to convey 
 my lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he 
 was entertained that night. 
 
 The morning after we went to see the 
 Stadt-house and adjoining aqueduct, the 
 church, and market-place, where we saw 
 cheeses and butter piled up in heaps ; also 
 the fortifications and grachts, which are 
 extremely large. 
 
 The 9th, we arrived at Ostend by a 
 straight and artificial river. Here, with 
 leave of the captain of the watch, I was 
 carried to survey the river and harbour, 
 
 1 [This was no doubt the great bombard known 
 as Mad Margery (De Dulle Griete\ a relative of 
 Edinburgh's Mons Meg. It is of hammered iron, 
 hooped like a tub. Its length is nineteen feet ; 
 its circumference eleven feet. That egregious 
 traveller, Thomas Coryat of Odcombe, found 
 another of the family in the Citadel at Milan, — 
 "an exceeding huge Basiliske, which was so great 
 that it would easily contayne the body of a very 
 corpulent man " {Crudities, 1776, i. 125).] 
 
 2 [The Earl of Arundel.] 
 
 with fortifications on one side thereof: the 
 east and south are mud and earth walls. 
 It is a very strong place, and lately stood 
 a memorable siege three years, three 
 months, three weeks, and three days. 1 I 
 went to see the church of St. Peter, 2 and 
 the cloisters of the Franciscans. 
 
 loth. I went by waggon, accompanied 
 with a jovial commissary, to Dunkirk, the 
 journey being made all on the sea-sands. 
 On our arrival, we first viewed the court 
 of guards, the works, the town-house, and 
 the new church ; the latter is very beautiful 
 within ; and another, wherein they showed 
 us an excellent piece of "Our Saviour's 
 bearing the Cross." The harbour, in two 
 channels, coming up to the town was 
 choked with a multitude of prizes. 
 
 From hence, the next day, I marched 
 three English miles towards the packet- 
 boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns, 
 which embarked us for England about 
 three in the afternoon. 
 
 At our going off, the fort, against which 
 our pinnace anchored, saluted my Lord 
 Marshal with twelve great guns, which we 
 answered with three. Not having the 
 wind favourable, we anchored that night 
 before Calais. About midnight, we 
 weighed ; and, at four in the morning, 
 though not far from Dover, we could not 
 make the pier till four that afternoon, the 
 wind proving contrary and driving us 
 westward : but at last Ave got on shore, 
 October the 12th. 
 
 From Dover, I that night rode post to 
 Canterbury. Here I visited the cathedral, 
 then in great splendour ; those famous 
 windows being entire, since demolished by 
 the fanatics. 3 The next morning, by 
 Sittingbourne, I came to Rochester, and 
 thence to Gravesend, where a light-horse- 
 man (as they call it) 4 taking us in, we 
 spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From 
 hence, after we had a little refreshed 
 
 1 [From 1601 to 1604, when it finally yielded to 
 Spinola, but only by command of the States- 
 General, who, owing to its obstinate resistance, 
 had gained their ends.] 
 
 2 [Burned down in 1896, and now rebuilt.] 
 
 3 [In 1643, Richard Culmer, a fanatical divine, 
 known as " Blue Dick," was commissioned by the 
 Parliament to destroy the stained glass of Canter- 
 bury Cathedral.] 
 
 * [According to Smyth's Sailor's Word-Book, 
 this is "an old name for the light boat, since 
 named gig."] 
 
1643] 
 
 THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 25 
 
 ourselves at the College (for by reason of 
 the contagion then in London we balked l 
 the inns), we came to London, landing at 
 Arund el-stairs. 2 Here I took leave of his 
 Lordship, and retired to my lodgings in 
 the Middle Temple, 3 being about two in 
 the morning, the 14th of October. 
 
 16th October. I went to see my brother 
 at Wotton. On the 31st of that month 
 (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which 
 broke out on the 23rd), 4 I was one-and- 
 twenty years of age. 
 
 7th November. After receiving the 
 Sacrament at Wotton church, I visited my 
 Lord Marshal at Albury. 5 
 
 2,$rd. I returned to London ; and, on 
 the 25th, saw his Majesty ride through the 
 City after his coming out of Scotland, and 
 a Peace proclaimed, with great acclama- 
 tions and joy of the giddy people. 
 
 i$t/i December. I was elected one of the 
 Comptrollers of the Middle Temple revel- 
 lers, as the fashion of the young students 
 and gentlemen was, the Christmas being 
 kept this year with great solemnity ; but, 
 being desirous to pass it in the country, I 
 got leave to resign my staff of office, and 
 went with my brother Richard to Wotton. 
 
 10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to 
 my cousin Hatton, of Ditton. 6 
 
 19/A. I went to London, where I stayed 
 till 5th March, studying a little, but dancing 
 and fooling more. 
 
 yd October. To Chichester, and hence 
 the next day to see the siege of Portsmouth ; 
 for now was that bloody difference between 
 the King and Parliament broken out, which 
 ended in the fatal tragedy so many years 
 after. It was on the day of its being 
 rendered to Sir William Waller ; which 
 gave me an opportunity of taking my 
 leave of Colonel Goring, the governor, 
 now embarking for France. 7 This day 
 
 1 [Avoided, gave the go-by to,] 
 
 2 [These were at the bottom of Arundel Street, 
 near the present Arundel Hotel.] 
 
 3 TSee ante, p. 8.] 
 
 4 [Upon which day was planned the surprise of 
 Dublin Castle and the rising in Ulster.] 
 
 5 [Albury Park, Guildford, Surrey, at this date 
 the seat of the Howards. From the Howards it 
 passed to the Finches, and in 1819 was bought by 
 Mr. Drummond. It now belongs to the Duke of 
 Northumberland, to whose family it came by 
 marriage with the Drummonds.] 
 
 6 [Serjeant Hatton, of Thames-Ditton (see post, 
 under 5th October, 1647).] 
 
 7 [Portsmouth was surrendered to the Parliament 
 
 was fought that signal battle at Edgehill. 1 
 Thence I went to Southampton and Win- 
 chester, where I visited the castle, school, 
 church, and King Arthur's Round Table ; 
 but especially the church, and its Saxon 
 kings' monuments, which I esteemed a 
 worthy antiquity. 
 
 The 1 2th November was the battle of 
 Brentford, surprisingly fought ; and to the 
 great consternation of the City, had his 
 Majesty (as it was believed he would) 
 pursued his advantage. I came in with 
 my horse and arms just at the retreat; 2 
 but was not permitted to stay longer than 
 the 15th, by reason of the army marching 
 to Gloucester ; which would have left both 
 me and my brothers exposed to ruin, 
 without any advantage to his Majesty. 
 
 yt/i December. I went from Wotton to 
 London, to see the so much celebrated line 
 of communication, and on the 10th returned 
 to Wotton, nobody knowing of my having 
 been in his Majesty's army. 
 
 lot A March, 1643. I went to Harting- 
 fordberry, to visit my cousin, Keightley. a 
 
 nt/i. I went to see my Lord of Salis- 
 bury's Palace at Hatfield, 4 where the most 
 considerable rarity, besides the house 
 (inferior to few then in England for its 
 architecture), were the garden and vineyard, 
 rarely well watered and planted. They 
 also showed us the picture of Secretary 
 Cecil, in mosaic work, very well done by 
 some Italian hand. 
 
 I must not forget what amazed us ex- 
 ceedingly in the night before, namely, a 
 shining cloud in the air, in shape resembling 
 a sword, the point reaching to the north ; 
 it was as bright as the moon, the rest of 
 the sky being very serene. It began about 
 eleven at night, and vanished not till above 
 one, being seen by all the south of England. 
 I made many journeys to and from London. 
 
 15^ April. To Hatfield, and near the 
 
 by Colonel Goring (see ante, p. 12), 9th September, 
 1642.] 
 
 1 [The battle of Edgehill was fought Sunday, 
 23rd October, 1642.] 
 
 2 [Charles had taken Brentford on the 12th ; but 
 being faced next day by Essex at Turnham Green, 
 he retreated through Reading to Oxford, which he 
 reached 29th November.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 3.] 
 
 4 [Hatfield House, Herts, is still the seat of 
 Lord Salisbury; and the gardens, where Pepys 
 " never saw ... so good flowers, nor so great 
 gooseberries, as big as nutmegs" (Diary, 22nd 
 July, 1661), retain their magnificence.] 
 
26 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1643 
 
 town of Hertford I went to see Sir J. 
 Harrison's house new built. 1 Returning 
 to London, I called to see his Majesty's 
 house and gardens at Theobalds, 2 since 
 demolished by the rebels. 
 
 2nd May. I went from Wotton to 
 London, where I saw the furious and 
 zealous people demolish that stately Cross 
 in Cheapside. 3 
 
 On the 4th I returned, with no little 
 regret, for the confusion that threatened 
 us. Resolving to possess myself in some 
 quiet, if it might be, in a time of so great 
 jealousy, I built by my brother's permission 
 a study, made a fish-pond, an island, and 
 some other solitudes and retirements at 
 Wotton ; which gave the first occasion of 
 improving them to those waterworks and 
 gardens which afterwards succeeded them, 
 and became at that time the most famous 
 of England. 
 
 1 ith July. I sent my black manage horse 4 
 and furniture with a friend to his Majesty, 
 then at Oxford. 5 
 
 2$rd. The Covenant being pressed, 
 I absented myself; but, finding it im- 
 possible to evade the doing very unhand- 
 some things, and which had been a great 
 cause of my perpetual motions hitherto 
 between Wotton and London, October the 
 2nd, I obtained a license of his Majesty, 
 dated at Oxford and signed by the King, 
 to travel again. 6 
 
 1 Afterwards called Ball's Park, belonging to 
 the Townshend family, George II.'s Secretary 
 of State, Charles, third Viscount, having married 
 Miss Harrison. 
 
 2 [Theobalds, Cheshunt, Herts, where James I. 
 died, 27th March, 1625. It was dismantled and 
 the greater part razed by the Parliamentary Com- 
 missioners. Theobalds Square, Cheshunt, now 
 occupies the site.] 
 
 3 ["While the thing was a-doing," says Howell, 
 " there was a noyse of trumpets blew all the 
 while " {Londinopolis, 1657).] 
 
 ** [Horse trained for war in the riding academy. 
 Evelyn's contemporary, the Duke of Newcastle 
 (see post, under 18th April, 1667) is said to have 
 taken particular pleasure in " Horses of Mannage," 
 and Scott makes Edward Waverley familiar with 
 " the arts of the manige " (ch. vii.). The Duke, it 
 may be remembered, wrote two famous works on 
 horsemanship.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 25.] 
 
 fi [This seems to suggest that he had obtained a 
 previous license. But that now granted evidently 
 did not, like the license issued to James Howell 
 by the Lords of the Council in 1617, include a 
 prohibition to visit Rome (see post, under 4th 
 November, 1644).] 
 
 6th November. Lying by the way from 
 Wotton at Sir Ralph Whitfield's, at 
 Bletchingley (whither both my brothers 
 had conducted me), I arrived at London 
 on the 7th, and two days after took boat 
 at the Tower wharf, which carried me as 
 far as Sittingbourne, though not without 
 danger, I being only in a pair of oars, 
 exposed to a hideous storm j but it pleased 
 God that we got in before the peril was 
 considerable. From thence, I went by 
 post to Dover, accompanied with one Mr. 
 Thicknesse, a very dear friend of mine. 1 
 
 nth. Having a reasonable good pass- 
 age, though the weather was snowy and 
 untoward enough, we came before Calais, 
 where, as we went on shore, mistaking 
 the tide, our shallop struck on the sands, 
 with no little danger ; but at length we 
 got off. 
 
 Calais is considered an extraordinary 
 well-fortified place, in the old castle and 
 new citadel regarding the sea. The haven 
 consists of a long bank of sand, lying 
 opposite to it. The market-place and the 
 church are remarkable things, besides 
 those relics of our former dominion there. 
 I remember there were engraven in stone, 
 upon the front of an ancient dwelling 
 which was showed us, these words in 
 English — God save the King, together with 
 the name of the architect and date. The 
 walls of the town are substantial ; but the 
 situation towards the land is not pleasant, 
 by reason of the marshes and low grounds 
 about it. 
 
 nth. After dinner, we took horse 
 with the Messagere, hoping to have 
 arrived at Boulogne that night ; but there 
 fell so great a snow, accompanied with hail, 
 rain, and sudden darkness, that we had 
 much ado to gain the next village ; and in 
 this passage, being to cross a valley by a 
 causeway, and a bridge built over a small 
 river, the rain that had fallen making it an 
 impetuous stream for near a quarter of a 
 mile, my horse slipping had almost been 
 the occasion of my perishing. We none of 
 us went to bed ; for the soldiers in those 
 parts leaving little in the villages, we had 
 enough to do to get ourselves dry, by morn- 
 ing, between the fire and the fresh straw. 
 The next day early, we arrived at Boulogne. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 6 ; and post, under 26th Sep- 
 tember, 1645.] 
 
1643] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 27 
 
 This is a double town, one part of it 
 situate on a high rock, or downs ; the 
 other, called the lower town, is yet with a 
 great declivity towards the sea ; both of 
 them defended by a strong castle, which 
 stands on a notable eminence. Under the 
 town runs the river, which is yet but an 
 inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII. , in 
 the siege of this place, is said to have used 
 those great leathern guns which I have 
 since beheld in the Tower of London, 
 inscribed, Non Matte opus est cui non 
 deficit Mercurius ; if at least the history be 
 true, which my Lord Herbert doubts. 1 
 
 The next morning, in some danger of 
 parties [Spanish] surprising us, we came to 
 Montreuil, built on the summit of a most 
 conspicuous hill, environed with fair and 
 ample meadows ; but all the suburbs had 
 been from time to time ruined, and were 
 now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads. 
 This town is fortified with two very deep 
 dry ditches ; the walls about the bastions 
 and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. 
 The church is more glorious without than 
 within : the market-place large : but the 
 inhabitants are miserably poor. The next 
 day, we came to Abbeville, having passed 
 all this way in continual expectation of the 
 volunteers, as they call them. This town 
 affords a good aspect towards the hill from 
 whence we descended : nor does it deceive 
 us ; for it is handsomely built, and has 
 many pleasant and useful streams passing 
 through it, the main river being the Somme, 
 which discharges itself into the sea at St. 
 Valery, almost in view of the town. The 
 principal church is a very handsome piece 
 of Gothic architecture, and the ports and 
 ramparts sweetly planted for defence and 
 ornament. In the morning, they brought 
 us choice of guns and pistols to sell at 
 reasonable rates, and neatly made, being 
 here a merchandise of great account, the 
 town abounding in gun-smiths. 
 
 Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another 
 town of good note, and having the first 
 vineyards we had seen. The next day to 
 
 1 {Life and Raigne of King Henry the Eighth, 
 1640, p. 516. But Lord Herbert speaks of "Canon 
 of Wood coloured like brasse." Leathern guns, 
 invented by Colonel Robert Scot (d. 1631), were, 
 however, used by Gustavus Adolphus at the battle 
 of Leipzig ; and a leathern cannon is said to have 
 been proved in the King's Park, Edinburgh, as 
 late as October, 1778.] 
 
 Beaumont, and the morrow to Paris, having 
 taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues 
 from that great city. St. Denis is con- 
 siderable only for its stately cathedral, and 
 the dormitory of the French kings, there 
 inhumed as ours at Westminster "Abbey. 
 The treasury is esteemed one of the richest 
 in Europe. The church was built by king 
 Dagobert, 1 but since much enlarged, being 
 now 390 feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 
 in height, without comprehending the 
 cover : it has also a very high shaft of 
 stone, and the gates are of brass. Here, 
 whilst the monks conducted us, we were 
 showed the ancient and modern sepulchres 
 of their kings, beginning with the founder 
 to Louis his son, with Charles Martel and 
 Pepin, son and father of Charlemagne. 
 These lie in the choir, and without it are 
 many more : amongst the rest that of 
 Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable of France; 
 in the chapel of Charles V., all his pos- 
 terity ; and near him the magnificent 
 sepulchre of Francis I., with his children, 
 wars, victories, and triumphs engraven in 
 marble. In the nave of the church lie the 
 catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII. , 
 Henry II., a noble tomb of Francis II., 
 and Charles IX. Above are bodies of 
 several Saints ; below, under a state of 
 black velvet, the. late Louis XIII. , father 
 of this present monarch. Every one of the 
 ten chapels, or oratories, had some Saints 
 in them ; amongst the rest, one of the 
 Holy Innocents. The treasury is kept in 
 the sacristy above, in which are crosses of 
 massy gold and silver, studded with precious 
 stones, one of gold three feet high, set with 
 sapphires, rubies, and great oriental pearls. 
 Another given by Charles the Great, having 
 a noble amethyst in the middle of it, stones 
 and pearls of inestimable value. Amongst 
 the still more valuable relics are, a nail 
 from our Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold 
 full of precious stones ; a crucifix of the 
 true wood of the Cross, carved by Pope 
 Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered 
 with gold ; a box in which is some of the 
 Virgin's hair ; some of the linen in which 
 our blessed Saviour was wrapped at his 
 nativity ; in a huge reliquary, modelled 
 like a church, some of our Saviour's blood, 
 hair, clothes, linen with which he wiped 
 the Apostles' feet ; with many other equally 
 
 1 [a.d. 630.] 
 
28 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [i643 
 
 authentic toys, which the friar who con- 
 ducted us would have us believe were 
 authentic relics. Amongst the treasures 
 is the crown of Charlemagne, his seven-foot 
 high sceptre and hand of justice, the agrafe 
 of his royal mantle, beset with diamonds 
 and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs of 
 gold ; the crown of St. Louis, covered with 
 precious stones, amongst which is one vast 
 ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 
 300 carats (under which is set one of the 
 thorns of our blessed Saviour's crown), his 
 sword, seal, and hand of justice. The two 
 crowns of Henry IV. , his sceptre, hand of 
 justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his 
 son Louis. In the cloak-royal of Anne 
 of Bretagne is a very great and rare ruby. 
 Divers books covered with solid plates of 
 gold, and studded with precious stones. 
 Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof 
 one is esteemed for its bigness, colour, and 
 embossed carving, the best now to be seen : 
 by a special favour I was permitted to take 
 the measure and dimensions of it : the story 
 is a Bacchanalia and sacrifice to Priapus ; 
 a very holy thing truly, and fit for a 
 cloister ! It is really antique, and the 
 noblest jewel there. 1 There is also a large 
 gondola of chrysolite, a huge urn of 
 porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of 
 onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that 
 stone ; two of crystal ; a morsel of one of 
 the waterpots in which our Saviour did his 
 first miracle ; the effigies of the queen of 
 Saba, 2 of Julius, Augustus, Mark Antony, 
 Cleopatra, and others, upon sapphires, 
 topazes, agates, and cornelians : that of 
 the queen of Saba has a Moorish face ; 
 those of Julius and Nero on agates are 
 rarely coloured and cut. A cup in which 
 Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo 
 on a great amethyst. There lay in a 
 window a mirror of a kind of stone said to 
 have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charle- 
 magne's chessmen, full of Arabic characters. 
 In the press next the door, the brass Ian tern 
 full of crystals, said to have conducted 
 
 1 [Gray and Walpole also inspected this in tJieir 
 Grand Tour. " The glory of their collection was a 
 vase of an entire onyx, measuring at least five 
 inches over, three deep, and of great thickness. 
 It is at least two thousand years old, the beauty of 
 the stone and sculpture upon it (representing the 
 mysteries of Bacchus) beyond expression admir- 
 able ; we have dreamed of it ever since " (Gray to 
 West, Gosse's Grays Works, 1884, i. 20).] 
 
 2 Or Sheba. 
 
 Judas and his company to apprehend our 
 blessed Saviour. A fair unicorn's horn, 
 sent by a king of Persia, about seven feet 
 long. In another press (over which stands 
 the picture in oil of their Orleans Amazon 
 with her sword), the effigies of the late 
 French kings in wax, like ours in West- 
 minster, covered with their robes ; with a 
 world of other rarities. Having rewarded 
 our courteous friar, we took horse for Paris, 
 where we arrived about five in the after- 
 noon. In the way were fair crosses of 
 stone carved with fleur-de-lis at every 
 furlong's end, where they affirm St. Denis 
 rested and laid down his head after 
 martyrdom, carrying it from the place where 
 this monastery is builded. We lay at Paris 
 at the Ville de Venise ; where, after I had 
 something refreshed, I went to visit Sir 
 Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident 
 with the French king. 1 
 
 5//J December. The Earl of Norwich 2 
 came as Ambassador Extraordinary : I 
 went to meet him in a coach and six horses, 
 at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompierre, 3 
 where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, 
 terraces, and rare prospects. My lord was 
 waited on by the master of the ceremonies, 
 and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, 
 to the Palais Cardinal, 4 where on the 23rd 
 he had audience of the French king, and 
 the Queen Regent his mother, in the golden 
 chamber of presence. From thence, I 
 conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. 
 Denis, and so took my leave. 
 
 24th. I went with some company to see 
 some remarkable places without the city : 
 
 1 [Sir Richard Browne, 1605-83, of Sayes Court, 
 Deptford. After being educated at Merton 
 College, Oxford, and travelling on the Continent, 
 he was sworn Clerk of the Council to Charles I., 
 1641. Having then filled some minor diplomatic 
 posts, he was appointed English Resident at the 
 Court of France, succeeding the Earl of Leicester. 
 He held this office until the Restoration. He was 
 made a Baronet in 1649. (See post, under 12th 
 February, 1683.)] 
 
 2 [George Lord Goring (see ante, p. 12), who 
 had been recently sent to negotiate an alliance, and 
 obtained from Mazarin promises of aid both in arms 
 and money. Charles, to reward him, made him 
 Earl of Norwich, 28th November, 1644.] 
 
 3 [The famous marshal, Francois, Baron de 
 Bassompierre, 1579-1646. Having been confined 
 for twelve years in the Bastille by Richelieu, he 
 had been released by Mazarin, and reinstated in 
 his position of Colonel-General des Suisses.] 
 
 4 [Where the King lived during the building of 
 the Louvre (see post, under 6th April, 1644).] 
 
I643J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 29 
 
 as the Isle, and how it is encompassed by 
 the rivers Seine and the Oise. The city is 
 divided into three parts, whereof the town 
 is greatest. The city lies between it and 
 the University in form of an island. Over 
 the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont 
 Neuf, begun by Henry III. in 1578, finished 
 by Henry IV. his successor. It is all of 
 hewn freestone found under the streets, but 
 more plentifully at Montmartre, and con- 
 sists of twelve arches, in the midst of which 
 ends the point of an island, on which are 
 built handsome artificers' houses. There 
 is one large passage for coaches, and two 
 for foot-passengers three or four feet higher, 
 and of convenient breadth for eight or ten 
 to go a-breast. On the middle of this 
 stately bridge, on one side stands the 
 famous statue of Henry the Great on horse- 
 back, exceeding the natural proportion by 
 much ; and, on the four faces of a stately 
 pedestal (which is composed of various 
 sorts of polished marbles and rich mould- 
 ings), inscriptions of his victories and most 
 signal actions are engraven in brass. The 
 statue and horse are of copper, the work of 
 the great John di Bologna, and sent from 
 Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo 
 the Second, uncle and cousin to Marie de 
 Medicis, the wife of King Henry, whose 
 statue it represents. 1 The place where it 
 is erected is inclosed with a strong and 
 beautiful grate of iron, about which there 
 are always mountebanks showing their 
 feats to idle passengers. From hence is 
 a rare prospect towards the Louvre and 
 suburbs of St. Germain, the Isle du Palais, 
 and Notre Dame. At the foot of this 
 bridge is a water - house, on the front 
 whereof, at a great height, is the story of 
 our Saviour and the woman of Samaria 
 pouring water out of a bucket. 2 Above, is 
 a very rare dial of several motions, with a 
 chime, etc. The water is conveyed by 
 huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, 
 from the river beneath. The confluence 
 of the people and multitude of coaches 
 passing every moment over the bridge, to 
 
 1 [John of Bologna's statue was melted down in 
 1792 to make cannon. Another statue, by Francois- 
 Frederic Lemot, erected in 1818, has now taken its 
 place, and repeats the old inscriptions.] 
 
 2 ["La Samaritaine" — familiar to readers of 
 Les Trois Mousquetaires, — reconstructed in 1715, 
 perished in 1792. There is a model of the old 
 pump, etc., in the Musee Carnavalet, Rue Sevigne.] 
 
 a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. 
 Other bridges there are, as that of Notre 
 Dame and the Pont - au - Change, etc., 
 fairly built, with houses of stone, which are 
 laid over this river ; only the Pont St. 
 Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germain 
 at the Tuileries, is built of wood, having 
 likewise a water-house in the midst of it, 
 and a statue of Neptune casting water out 
 of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much 
 inferior to the Samaritan. 
 
 The University lies south-west on higher 
 ground, contiguous to, but the lesser part 
 of, Paris. They reckon no less than sixty- 
 five colleges ; 1 but they in nothing approach 
 ours at Oxford for state and order. The 
 booksellers dwell within the University. 
 The schools (of which more hereafter) are 
 very regular. 
 
 The suburbs are those of St. Denis, 
 Honore, St. Marcel, St. Jacques, St. 
 Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germain, 
 which last is the largest, and where the 
 nobility and persons of best quality are 
 seated : and truly Paris, comprehending 
 the suburbs, is, for the material the houses 
 are built with, and many noble and magni- 
 ficent piles, one of the most gallant cities 
 in the world ; large in circuit, of a round 
 form, very populous, but situated in a 
 bottom, environed with gentle declivities, 
 rendering some places very dirty, and 
 making it smell as if sulphur were mingled 
 with the mud ; - yet it is paved with a kind 
 
 1 [" Fifty-five," — says Sir John Reresby in 1654, 
 — " but few of them endowed except one called la 
 Sorbonne ; and that of late by Cardinal Richelieu 
 [see post, under 4th January, 1644], so that they 
 are only places of publick lecture, the scholars 
 having both their lodging and other accommodation 
 in the town " (Travels, 1831, p. 8). 
 
 Sir John Reresby of Thrybergh, Bart., 1634-89, 
 is not mentioned by Evelyn, although he was his 
 contemporary. He travelled on the Continent 
 between 1654 ar, d 1658. His Travels were published 
 with his Memoirs in 1831 ; but a more exact edition 
 of the latter, based upon the original MS. in the 
 British Museum, and edited by James J. Cart- 
 wright, M.A., appeared in 1875.] 
 
 2 [Les Odeurs de Paris seem to have engaged 
 attention long before M. Louis Veuillor. Coryat, 
 in 1608, declares many of the Paris streets to be 
 " thedurtiest, and so consequently the most stinking 
 of all that ever I saw in any citie in my life " ; and 
 Peter Heylyn, writing earlier than Evelyn, says, 
 " This I am confident of, that the nastiest lane in 
 London is frankincense and juniper to the sweetest 
 street in this city." Howell, in a letter to Captain 
 Francis Bacon from Paris in 1620, is also eloquent 
 on the same theme: "This Town (for Paris is a 
 
30 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Li 644 
 
 of freestone, of near a foot square, which 
 renders it more easy to walk on than our 
 pebbles in London. 
 
 On Christmas eve, I went to see the 
 Cathedral at Notre Dame, erected by Philip 
 Augustus, but begun by King Robert, son 
 of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic 
 fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which 
 make two aisles in the church round about 
 the choir, without comprehending the 
 chapels, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, 
 and 100 high. The choir is enclosed with 
 stone-work graven with the sacred history, 
 and contains forty- five chapels chancelled 
 with iron. At the front of the chief 
 entrance are statues in rilievo of the kings, 
 twenty-eight in number, from Childebert 
 to the founder, Philip ; and above them 
 are two high square towers, and another of 
 a smaller size, bearing a spire in the 
 middle, where the body of the church 
 forms a cross. The great tower is ascended 
 by 389 steps, having twelve galleries from 
 one to the other. They greatly reverence 
 the crucifix over the screen of the choir, 
 with an image of the Blessed Virgin. 
 There are some good modern paintings 
 hanging on the pillars. The most con- 
 spicuous statue is the huge colossal one of 
 St. Christopher ; with divers other figures 
 of men, houses, prospects, and rocks, 
 about this gigantic piece ; being of one 
 stone, and more remarkable for its bulk 
 than any other perfection. This is the 
 prime church of France for dignity, having 
 archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and 
 chaplains in good store, to the number of 
 127. It is also the palace of the arch- 
 bishop. The young king was there with a 
 great and martial guard, who entered the 
 nave of the church with drums and fifes, at 
 the ceasing of which I was entertained 
 with the church-music ; and so I left him. 
 
 fifth January ', 1644. I passed this day 
 with one Mr. J. Wall, an Irish gentleman, 
 who had been a friar in Spain, and after- 
 wards a reader in St. Isidoro's chair, at 
 Rome ; but was, I know not how, getting 
 
 Town, a City, and an University) is always dirty, 
 and 'tis such a Dirt, that by perpetual Motion is 
 beaten into such black unctuous Oil, that where it 
 sticks no Art can wash it off some Colours ; inso- 
 much, that it may be no improper Comparison to 
 say. That an ill Name is like the Crot[te] (the Dirt) 
 of Paris, which is indelible" (Howell's Familiar 
 Letters, Jacobs' ed. 1892, i. 43).] 
 
 away, and pretending to be a soldier of 
 fortune, an absolute cavalier, having, as he 
 told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. 
 It is certain he was an excellent disputant, 
 and so strangely given to it that nothing 
 could pass him. He would needs persuade 
 me to go with him this morning to the 
 Jesuits' College, to witness his polemical 
 talent. We found the Fathers in their 
 Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one 
 of them showed us that noble fabric, which 
 for its cupola, pavings, incrustations of 
 marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the 
 high altar), organ, lavatorium, etc., but 
 above all, for the richly carved and incom- 
 parable front I esteem to be one of the 
 most perfect pieces of architecture in 
 Europe, emulating even some of the 
 greatest now at Rome itself. But this not 
 being what our friar sought, he led us into 
 the adjoining convent, where, having 
 showed us the library, they began a very 
 hot dispute on some points of divinity; 
 which our cavalier contested only to show 
 his pride, and to that indiscreet height, 
 that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to 
 our coach, they being put beside all 
 patience. The next day, we went into the 
 University, and into the College of Navarre, 
 which is a spacious well-built quadrangle, 
 having a very noble library. 
 
 Thence to the,,- Sorbonne, an ancient 
 fabric built by one Robert de Sorbonne, 
 whose name it retains, but the restoration 
 which the late Cardinal de Richelieu 1 has 
 made to it renders it one of the most 
 excellent modern buildings ; the sumptuous 
 church, of admirable architecture, is far 
 superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, 
 and whole design of the church, are very 
 magnificent. 
 
 We entered into some of 'the schools, 
 and in that of divinity we found a grave 
 Doctor in his chair, with a multitude of 
 auditors, who all write as he dictates ; and 
 this they call a Course. After we had sat 
 a little, our cavalier started up, and rudely 
 enough began to dispute with the doctor ; 
 
 1 [Armand-Jean du Plessis, Cardinal -Due de 
 Richelieu, died 4th December, 1642. He rebuilt 
 the College in 1629 ; the Church in 1635. The 
 Church was finished in 1659. There is a splendid 
 triple portrait of Richelieu by Philippe de Cham- 
 paigne in the National Gallery. It was made to 
 assist the Roman sculptor Mocchi in framing a 
 bust.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 3 1 
 
 at which, and especially as he was clad in 
 the Spanish habit, which in Paris is the 
 greatest bugbear imaginable, 1 the scholars 
 and doctor fell into such a fit of laughter, 
 that nobody could be heard speak for a 
 while : but silence being obtained, he began 
 to speak Latin, and made his apology in 
 so good a style, that their derision was 
 turned to admiration ; and beginning to 
 argue, he so baffled the Professor, that 
 with universal applause they all rose up, 
 and did him great honours, waiting on us 
 to the very street and our coach, and testi- 
 fying great satisfaction. 
 
 2nd February. I heard the news of 
 my nephew George's birth, which was on 
 January 15th, English style, 1644. 2 
 
 3rd. I went to the Exchange. The late 
 addition to the buildings is very noble ; 
 but the galleries where they sell their petty 
 merchandise nothing so stately as ours at 
 London, no more than the place where they 
 walk below, being only a low vault. 
 
 The Palais, 3 as they call the upper part, 
 was built in the time of Philip the Fair, 
 noble and spacious. The great Hall 
 annexed to it, is arched with stone, having 
 a range of pillars in the middle, round 
 which, and at the sides, are shops of all 
 kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is 
 full of pews for the clerks of the advocates, 
 who swarm here (as ours at Westminster). 
 At one of the ends stands an altar, at which 
 mass is said daily. Within are several 
 chambers, courts, treasuries, etc. Above 
 that is the most rich and glorious Salle 
 d' Audience, the chamber of St. Louis, and 
 other superior Courts where the Parliament 
 sits, richly gilt on embossed carvings and 
 frets, and exceeding beautified. 
 
 Within the place where they sell their 
 wares, is another narrower gallery, full of 
 shops and toys, etc., which looks down 
 
 1 [Cf. Howell's Instructions for Forreine 
 Travell, 1642, Section v. : — "A Spaniard lookes 
 like a bug-beare in France in his own cut."] 
 
 2 [George Evelyn, eldest son of George Evelyn 
 of Wotton. He died in 1676.] 
 
 3 ["I must not pass by the great pallais, or 
 palace, a great pile of irregular building, and of 
 great antiquity, some part of it below stairs em- 
 ployed as shops and warehouses ; part of it above 
 is not unlike our new and old exchanges, where 
 such-like merchandises are exposed to sale. The 
 rest of it is divided into many large chambers and 
 apartments, where the several courts of parliament 
 have their session" (Reresby in 1654, Travels, 
 1831, p. 9)-] 
 
 into the prison-yard. Descending by a 
 large pair of stairs, we passed by Sainte 
 Chapelle, which is a church built by St. 
 Louis, 1242, after the Gothic manner : it 
 stands on another church, which is under 
 it, sustained by pillars at the sides, which 
 seem so weak as to appear extraordinary 
 in the artist. This chapel is most famous 
 for its relics, having, as they pretend, 
 almost the entire crown of thorns : the 
 agate patine, rarely sculptured, judged one 
 of the largest and best in Europe. There 
 was now a very beautiful spire erecting. 
 The court below is very spacious, capable 
 of holding many coaches, and surrounded 
 with shops, especially engravers', gold- 
 smiths', and watchmakers'. In it are a 
 fair fountain and portico. The Isle du 
 Palais consists of a triangular brick build- 
 ing, whereof one side, looking to the river, 
 is inhabited by goldsmiths. Within the 
 court are private dwellings. The front, 
 looking on the great bridge, is possessed 
 by mountebanks, operators, and puppet- 
 players. On the other part, is the every 
 day's market for all sorts of provisions, 
 especially bread, herbs, flowers, orange 
 trees, choice shrubs. Here is a shop called 
 Noafcs Ark, where are sold all curiosities, 
 natural or artificial, Indian or European, 
 for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, 
 porcelain, dried fishes, insects, birds, 
 pictures, and a thousand exotic extrava- 
 gances. Passing hence, we viewed the 
 port Dauphine, an arch of excellent work- 
 manship ; the street, bearing the same 
 name, is ample and straight. 
 
 4M. I went to see the Marais de Temple, 
 where are a noble church and palace, 
 heretofore dedicated to the Knights Tem- 
 plars, now converted to a piazza, not much 
 unlike ours at Covent Garden ; but large, 
 and not so pleasant, though built all about 
 with divers considerable palaces. 
 
 The Church of St. Genevieve is a place 
 of great devotion, dedicated to another of 
 their Amazons, said to have delivered the 
 city from the English ; for which she is 
 esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It 
 stands on a steep eminence, having a very 
 high spire, and is governed by canons 
 regular. At the Palais Royal Henry IV. 
 built a fair quadrangle of stately palaces, 
 arched underneath. In the middle of a 
 spacious area, stands on a noble pedestal 
 
32 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 a brazen statue of Louis XIII., 1 which, 
 though made in imitation of that in the 
 Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed 
 as that on the Pont Neuf. 
 
 The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, 2 in 
 the Rue St. Honore, is an excellent founda- 
 tion ; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for 
 men and women, 3 near Notre Dame, a 
 princely, pious, and expensive structure. 
 That of the Charite 4 gave me great satis- 
 faction, in seeing how decently and chris- 
 tianly the sick people are attended, even 
 to delicacy. I have seen them served by 
 noble persons, men and women. They 
 have also gardens, walks, and fountains. 
 Divers persons are here cut for the stone, 
 with great success, yearly in May. The 
 two Chatelets (supposed to have been built 
 by Julius Caesar) are places of judicature 
 in criminal causes ; to which is a strong 
 prison. 5 The courts are spacious and 
 magnificent. 
 
 %th February. I took coach and went to 
 see the famous Jardin Royal, which is an en- 
 closure walled in, consisting of all varieties 
 of ground for planting and culture of medical 
 simples. It is well chosen, having in it 
 hills, meadows, wood and upland, natural 
 and artificial, and is richly stored with 
 exotic plants. In the middle of the parterre 
 is a fair fountain. There is a very fine 
 house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, and 
 other accommodations for the President, 
 who is always one of the King's chief 
 physicians. 
 
 From hence, we went to the other side 
 of the town, and to some distance from it, 
 to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the 
 Bastille, 6 which is the fortress, tower, and 
 
 1 [The bronze of Louis XI IT., erected by 
 Richelieu in 1639, was destroyed in 1792. An 
 equestrian statue by Dupaty and Cortot has now 
 taken its place, and the Place Royale (not " Palais 
 Royal ") is now called the Place des Vosges.] 
 
 2 [The Hospice des Quinze-Vingts, founded by 
 St. Louis in 1260, now occupies the old Hotel des 
 Mousquetaires Noirs, to which it was removed 
 from the Rue St. Honore by the Cardinal de 
 Rohan.] 
 
 3 [The Hdtel-Dieu was re-erected in 1868-78, on 
 a different site, but still in the vicinity of Notre 
 Dame.] 
 
 4 [The Hdpital de la Charity in the Rue des 
 Saints Peres, is — or is shortly to be — pulled down.] 
 
 5 [The Grand and Petit Chatelets are now non- 
 existent.] 
 
 6 [Destroyed by the populace, 14th July, 1789, 
 at the beginning of the Revolution. The Colonne 
 
 magazine of this great city. It is very 
 spacious within, and there the Grand 
 Master of the artillery has his house, with 
 fair gardens and walks. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square 
 and noble castle, 1 with magnificent apart- 
 ments, fit for a royal court, not forgetting 
 the chapel. It is the chief prison for per- 
 sons of quality. About it there is a park 
 walled in, full of deer ; and in one part 
 there is a grove of goodly pine trees. 
 
 The next day, I went to see the Louvre 
 with more attention, its several courts and 
 pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun 
 by Henry IV. , and finished by his son and 
 grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. 
 The cornices, mouldings, and compart- 
 ments, with the insertion of several coloured 
 marbles, have been of great expense. 
 
 We went through the long gallery, paved 
 with white and black marble, richly fretted 
 and painted a fresco. The front looking 
 to the river, though of rare work for the 
 carving, yet wants of that magnificence 
 which a plainer and truer design would 
 have contributed to it. 
 
 In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely 
 fabric ; the winding geometrical stone 
 stairs, with the cupola, I take to be as 
 bold and noble a piece of architecture as 
 any in Europe of the kind. To this is a 
 corps de logis, worthy of so great a prince. 
 Under these buildings, through a garden 
 in which is an ample fountain, was the 
 king's printing-house, and that famous 
 letter so much esteemed. Here I bought 
 divers of the classic authors, poets, and 
 others. 
 
 We returned through another gallery, 
 larger but not so long, where hung the 
 pictures of all the kings and queens and 
 prime nobility of France. 
 
 Descending hence, we were let into a 
 lower very large room, called the Salle des 
 Antiques, which is a vaulted cimelia, 
 destined for statues only, amongst which 
 stands that so celebrated Diana of the 
 Ephesians, said to be the same which 
 uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. 
 Besides those colossean figures of marble, 
 
 de Juillet in the Place de la Bastille now marks its 
 site.] 
 
 1 [It was used as a royal residence until 1740, and 
 is now closed to the public. The Bois was laid out 
 1860-67.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 "3 -> 
 JO 
 
 I must not forget the huge globe suspended 
 by chains. The pavings, inlay ings, and 
 incrustations of this Hall are very rich. 
 
 In another more private garden towards 
 the Queen's apartment is a walk, or cloister, 
 under arches, whose terrace is paved with 
 stones of a great breadth ; it looks towards 
 the river and has a pleasant aviary, foun- 
 tain, stately cypresses, etc. On the river 
 are seen a prodigious number of barges and 
 boats of great length, full of hay, corn, 
 wood, wine, and other commodities, which 
 this vast city daily consumes. Under the 
 long gallery we have described, dwell gold- 
 smiths, painters, statuaries, and architects, 
 who being the most famous for their art in 
 Christendom have stipends allowed them 
 by the King. Into that of Monsieur Sar- 
 razin l we entered, who was then moulding 
 for an image of a Madonna to be cast in 
 gold of a great size, to be sent by the 
 Queen Regent to Loretto, as an offering 
 for the birth of the Dauphin, now the 
 young King. 
 
 I finished this day with a walk, in the 
 great garden of the Tuileries, 2 rarely con- 
 trived for privacy, shade, or company, by 
 groves, plantations of tall trees, especially 
 that in the middle, being of elms, the 
 other of mulberries ; and that labyrinth of 
 cypresses ; not omitting the noble hedges 
 of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and 
 an aviary ; but, above all, the artificial 
 echo, redoubling the words so distinctly, 
 and as it is never without some fair nymph 
 singing to its grateful returns ; standing at 
 one of the focuses, which is under a tree, 
 or little cabinet of hedges, the voice seems 
 to descend from the clouds ; at another, as 
 if it was underground. This being at the 
 bottom of the garden, we were let into 
 another, which being kept with all imagin- 
 able accurateness as to the orangery, 
 precious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a 
 Paradise. From a terrace in this place we 
 saw so many coaches, as one would hardly 
 think could be maintained in the whole 
 
 1 Jacques Sarrazin, 1588 -1660, a celebrated 
 painter and sculptor, much employed by the royal 
 family of France. For Cardinal Richelieu he 
 executed, in silver and gold, Anne of Austria's 
 offering to the Chapel of Loretto, a group repre- 
 senting the dauphin's presentation to the Virgin 
 Mary. 
 
 2 [It still retains the same general features as 
 when laid out for Louis XIV. by Andre Le NQtre.] 
 
 city, going, late as it was in the year, 
 towards the course, which is a place adjoin- 
 ing, of near an English mile long, planted 
 with four rows of trees, making a large 
 circle in the middle. This course is walled 
 about, near breast-high, with squared free- 
 stone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, 
 with sculpture and statues about it, built 
 by Marie de M^dicis. Here it is that the 
 gallants and ladies of the Court take the 
 air and divert themselves, as with us in 
 Hyde Park, the circle being capable of 
 containing a hundred coaches to turn com- 
 m odiously, and the larger of the plantations 
 for five or six coaches a-breast. 
 
 Returning through the Tuileries, we saw 
 a building in which are kept wild beasts 
 for the King's pleasure, a bear, a wolf, a 
 wild boar, a leopard, etc. 
 
 2'jtk February. Accompanied with some 
 English gentlemen, we took horse to see 
 St. Germain-en-Laye, a stately country- 
 house of the King, some five leagues from 
 Paris. By the way, we alighted at St. 
 Cloud, where, on an eminence near the 
 river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden, 
 for the house is not very considerable, 1 
 rarely watered and furnished with fountains, 
 statues, and groves ; the walks are very 
 fair ; the fountain of Laocoon is in a large 
 square pool, throwing the water near forty 
 feet high, and having about it a multitude 
 of statues and basins, and is a surprising 
 object. But nothing is more esteemed 
 than the cascade falling from the great 
 steps into the lowest and longest walk from 
 the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a 
 grotto, or shell-house, on the summit of 
 the hill, wherein are divers water-works 
 and contrivances to wet the spectators ; 
 this is covered with a fair cupola, the walls 
 painted with the Muses, and statues placed 
 thick about it, whereof some are antique 
 and good. In the upper walks are two 
 perspectives, seeming to enlarge the alleys, 
 and in this garden are many other ingenious 
 contrivances. The palace, as I said, is 
 not extraordinary. The outer walls only 
 painted a fresco. In the court is a volary, 
 and the statues of Charles IX., Henry 
 
 1 [In 1658 it was purchased, and rebuilt by Louis 
 XIV. from the designs of Mansard and Lepautre. 
 The bombs of St. Valerien destroyed it in 1870, 
 and its ruins were cleared away in 1893. The 
 park was laid out by Le N6tre.] 
 
 D 
 
34 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 III., IV., and Louis XIII., on horseback, 
 mezzo-rilievo'd in plaster. In the garden 
 is a small chapel ; and under shelter is 
 the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the 
 Belvidere original, with others. From the 
 terrace above is a tempest well painted ; 
 and thence an excellent prospect towards 
 Paris, the meadows, and river. 
 
 At an inn in this village is a host who 
 treats all the great persons in princely- 
 lodgings for furniture and plate, but they 
 pay well for it, as I have done. Indeed, 
 the entertainment is very splendid, and not 
 unreasonable, considering the excellent 
 manner of dressing their meat, and of the 
 service. Here are many debauches and 
 excessive revellings, as being out of all 
 noise and observance. 
 
 From hence, about a league farther, we 
 went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa, at 
 Rueil. 1 The house is small, but fairly 
 built, in form of a castle, moated round. 
 The offices are towards the road, and over 
 against it are large vineyards, walled in. 
 But, though the house is not of the greatest, 
 the gardens about it are so magnificent, 
 that I doubt whether Italy has any exceed- 
 ing it for all rarities of pleasure. The 
 garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre, 
 having in the midst divers noble brass 
 statues, perpetually spouting water into an 
 ample basin, with other figures of the 
 same metal ; but what is most admirable 
 is the vast inclosure, and variety of ground, 
 in the large garden, containing vineyards, 
 corn-fields, meadows, groves (whereof one 
 is of perennial greens), and walks of vast 
 length, so accurately kept and cultivated, 
 that nothing can be more agreeable. On 
 one of these walks, within a square of tall 
 trees, is a basilisk of copper, which, 
 managed by the fountaineer, casts water 
 near sixty feet high, and will of itself 
 move round so swiftly, that one can 
 hardly escape wetting. This leads to the 
 Citroniere, which is a noble conserve of 
 all those rarities ; and at the end of it is 
 the Arch of Constantine, 2 painted on a 
 
 1 [Richelieu's palace at Rueil no longer exists. 
 Its beautiful grounds were cut up by the heirs of 
 the Duchesse d'Aiguillon, the niece to whom he 
 bequeathed it, and who beautified it so much as to 
 excite the cupidity of Louis XIV. The fortress- 
 like chateau was destroyed in the Revolution. A 
 memory of the gardens survives in the six views of 
 Gabriel Perelle after Israel Silvestre.] 
 
 2 [S&z/ost, under 14th November, 1644.] 
 
 wall in oil, as large as the real one at 
 Rome, so well done, that even a man 
 skilled in painting may mistake it for stone 
 and sculpture. The sky and hills, which 
 seem to be between the arches, are so 
 natural, that swallows and other birds, 
 thinking to fly through, have dashed them- 
 selves against the wall. I was infinitely 
 taken with this agreeable cheat. At the 
 farther part of this walk is that plentiful, 
 though artificial cascade, which rolls down 
 a very steep declivity, and over the marble 
 steps and basins, with an astonishing noise 
 and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it, 
 flowing like sheets of transparent glass, 
 especially that which rises over the great 
 shell of lead, from whence it glides silently 
 down a channel through the middle of a 
 spacious gravel walk, terminating in a 
 grotto. Here are also fountains that cast 
 water to a great height, and large ponds, 
 two of which have islands for harbour of 
 fowls, of which there is store. One of 
 these islands has a receptacle for them 
 built of vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet 
 high, grown over with moss, ivy, etc., 
 shaded at a competent distance with tall 
 trees : in this rupellary nidary do the 
 fowls lay eggs, and breed. We then saw 
 a large and very rare grotto of shell-work, 
 in the shape of satyrs, and other wild 
 fancies : in the middle stands a marble 
 table, on which a fountain plays in divers 
 forms of glasses, cups, crosses, fans, 
 crowns, etc. Then the fountaineer repre- 
 sented a shower of rain from the top, met 
 by small jets from below. At going out, 
 two extravagant musketeers shot us with a 
 stream of water from their musket barrels. 
 Before this grotto is a long pool into which 
 ran divers spouts of water from leaden 
 scallop basins. The viewing this paradise 
 made us late at St. Germain. 
 
 The first building of this palace is of 
 Charles V. , called the Sage ; but Francis I. 
 (that true virtuoso) made it complete ; 
 speaking as to the style of magnificence 
 then in fashion, which was with too great 
 a mixture of the Gothic, as may be seen in 
 what there is remaining of his in the old 
 Castle, an irregular piece as built on the 
 old foundation, and having a moat about 
 it. It has yet some spacious and handsome 
 rooms of state, and a chapel neatly painted. 
 The new Castle is at some distance, divided 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 35 
 
 from this by a court, of a lower, but more 
 modern design, built by Henry IV. 1 To 
 this belong six terraces, built of brick and 
 stone, descending in cascades towards the 
 river, cut out of the natural hill, having 
 under them goodly vaulted galleries ; of 
 these, four have subterranean grots and 
 rocks, where are represented several objects 
 in the manner of scenes and other motions, 
 by force of water, shown by the light of 
 torches only ; amongst these, is Orpheus 
 with his music ; and the animals, which 
 dance after his harp ; in the second, is 
 the King and Dauphin ; in the third, is 
 Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot 
 drawn by sea-horses ; in the fourth, the 
 story of Perseus and Andromeda ; mills ; 
 hermitages ; men fishing ; birds chirping ; 
 and many other devices. There is also a 
 dry grot to refresh in ; all having a fine 
 prospect towards the river, and the goodly 
 country about it, especially the forest. 
 At the bottom is a parterre ; the upper 
 terrace near half a mile in length, with 
 double declivities, arched and balustered 
 with stone, of vast and royal cost. 
 
 In the pavilion of the new Castle are 
 many fair rooms, well painted, and leading 
 into a very noble garden and park, where 
 is a pall-mall, in the midst of which, on 
 one of the sides, is a chapel, with stone 
 cupola, though small, yet of a handsome 
 order of architecture. Out of the park 
 you go into the forest, which being very 
 large, is stored with deer, wild boars, 
 wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis 
 Court, and Cavallerizza for the managed 
 horses, are also observable. 
 
 We returned to Paris by Madrid, 2 
 
 1 [This, with exception of the Pavilion Henri IV., 
 was destroyed in 1776. The older building, which 
 afterwards became the retreat of James II. (see 
 post, under 24th December, 1688), was used by 
 Napoleon I. as a prison. Of late years it has been 
 restored.] 
 
 2 [Seepost, under 25th April, 1650. In Reresby's 
 Travels, 1831, p. 6, is the following reference to 
 this "villa," now no longer in existence: — "Near 
 unto it [Saint Germain] stands another, built by 
 Francis the First, called Madrid, to evade his 
 engagement to Charles, the fifth emperor, who had 
 taken him prisoner, and after giving him liberty, 
 upon his engagement to return to Madrid, if he 
 could not accomplish such terms as were agreed on 
 betwixt them for his release ; which not being able 
 to do, he made this, and came to it, instead of 
 returning into Spain." Dr. Martin Lister also 
 describes Madrid in his Travels in France, 1698 : 
 — " It is altogether moresque, in imitation of one 
 
 another villa of the King's, built by 
 Francis I., and called by that name to 
 absolve him of his oath that he would not 
 go from Madrid (in which he was prisoner), 
 in Spain, but from whence he made his 
 escape. This house is also built in a park, 
 and walled in. We next called in at the 
 Bons-Hommes, well situated, with a fair 
 chapel and library. 1 
 
 1st March. I went to see the Count de 
 Liancourt's Palace in the Rue de Seine, 
 which is well built. Towards his study 
 and bedchamber joins a little garden, 
 which, though very narrow, by the ad- 
 dition of a well-painted perspective, is to 
 appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there 
 is another part, supported by arches in 
 which runs a stream of water, rising in the 
 aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to 
 flow for some miles, by being artificially 
 continued in the painting, when it sinks 
 down at the wall. It is a very agreeable 
 deceit. At the end of this garden is a 
 little theatre, made to change with divers 
 pretty scenes, and the stage so ordered, 
 with figures of men and women painted 
 on light boards, and cut out, and, by a 
 person who stands underneath, made to 
 act as if they were speaking, by guiding 
 them, and reciting words in different tones, 
 as the parts require. 2 We were led into 
 a round cabinet, where was a neat inven- 
 tion for reflecting lights, by lining divers 
 sconces with thin shining plates of gilded 
 copper. 
 
 In one of the rooms of state was an 
 excellent painting of Poussin, being a 
 Satyr kneeling ; over the chimney, the Cor- 
 onation of the Virgin, by Paolo Veronese ; 
 another Madonna over the door, and that 
 of Joseph, by Cigali ; in the Hall, a 
 Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, 
 said to be of Michael Angelo ; the Rape 
 
 in Spain ; with at least two rows of covered 
 galleries running quite round, on the outside the 
 four faces of the house ; which sure in a hot country 
 are really refreshing and delightful ; and this is 
 said to be on purpose for a defence against a much 
 hotter climate than where it stands, which^ that 
 king [Francis the First] had no mind to visit a 
 second time."] 
 
 1 [A convent (see post, under 23rd February, 
 1651). This order of hermits appeared in France 
 about 1257 ; in England about 1283. The name 
 don hoinme is said to have been given by Louis VI.] 
 
 2 [This, no doubt, was one of those " jeux de 
 marionnettes," of which full details are to be found 
 in the treatise of M. Charles Magnin, 2nd ed. 1862.] 
 
36 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 of Proserpine, with a very large landscape 
 of Correggio. In the next room, are some 
 paintings of Primaticcio, especially the 
 Helena, the Naked Lady brought before 
 Alexander, well-painted, and a Ceres. In 
 the bed-chamber a picture of the Cardinal 
 de Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely coloured. 
 In the cabinet are divers pieces of Bassano, 
 two of Polemburg, four of Paul Bril, the 
 skies a little too blue. A Madonna of 
 Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone ; 
 a Judith of Mantegna ; three women of 
 Jeronimo ; one of Steenwyck ; a Madonna 
 after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same 
 hand, as the Count esteems it ; two small 
 pieces of Paolo Veronese, being the Martyr- 
 doms of St. Justina and St. Catherine ; a 
 Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him 
 from our King ; six more of old Bassano ; 
 two excellent drawings of Albert ; l a 
 Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; four of 
 Paolo : 2 a very rare Madonna of Titian, 
 given him also by our King ; the ' ' Ecce 
 Homo," shut up in a frame of velvet, for 
 the life and accurate finishing exceeding 
 all description. Some curious agates, and 
 a chaplet of admirable invention, the in- 
 taglios being all on fruit - stones. The 
 Count was so exceeding civil, that he 
 would needs make his lady go out of her 
 dressing-room, that he might show us the 
 curiosities and pictures in it. 
 
 We went thence to visit one Monsieur 
 Perishot, one of the greatest virtuosos in 
 France, for his collection of pictures, agates, 
 medals, and flowers, especially tulips and 
 anemones. The chiefest of his paintings 
 was a Sebastian, of Titian. 
 
 From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, 
 who showed us many rare drawings, a 
 Rape of Helen in black chalk ; many ex- 
 cellent things of Snyders, all naked ; some 
 of Julio and Michael Angelo ; a Madonna 
 of Passignano ; some things of Parmensis, 
 and other masters. 
 
 The next morning, being recommended 
 to one Monsieur de Hausse, President du 
 Parlement, and once Ambassador at Venice 
 for the French King, we were very civilly 
 received, and showed his library. ' Amongst 
 his paintings were, a rare Venus and Adonis 
 of Veronese, a St. Anthony, after the first 
 manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna 
 -of Palma. 
 
 [Albert Diirer.] 
 
 2 [Veronese.] 
 
 Sunday, the 6th March, I went to 
 Charenton, two leagues from Paris, to 
 hear and see the manner of the French 
 Protestant Church service. The place of 
 meeting they call the Temple, 1 a very fair 
 and spacious room, built of freestone, very 
 decently adorned with paintings of the 
 Tables of the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and 
 Creed. The pulpit stands at the upper 
 end in the middle, having an inclosure of 
 seats about it, where the elders and persons 
 of greatest quality and strangers sit ; the 
 rest of the congregation on forms and low 
 stools, but none in pews, as in our churches, 
 to their great disgrace, as nothing so 
 orderly, as here the stools and other 
 cumber are removed when the assembly 
 rises. I was greatly pleased with their 
 harmonious singing the Psalms, which they 
 all learn perfectly well, their children being 
 as duly taught these as their catechism. 
 
 In our passage, we went by that famous 
 bridge over the Marne, where that re- 
 nowned echo returns the voice of a good 
 singer nine or ten times. 
 
 *jth March. I set for wards with some com- 
 pany towards Fontainebleau, a sumptuous 
 Palace of the King's, like ours at Hampton 
 Court, about fourteen leagues from the city. 
 By the way, we pass through a forest so pro- 
 digiously encompassed with hideous rocks 
 of whitish hard stone 2 heaped one on 
 another in mountainous heights, that I 
 think the like is nowhere to be found more 
 horrid and solitary. 3 It abounds with 
 stags, wolves, boars, and not long after 
 a lynx, or ounce, was killed amongst them, 
 which had devoured some passengers. On 
 the summit of one of these gloomy preci- 
 pices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, 
 
 1 [This was the Temple des Protestants, author- 
 ised by Henry IV., and destroyed in 1685 at the 
 revocation of the Edict of Nantes.] 
 
 2 [The sandstone, or gre"s de Fontainebleau.) 
 
 3 [Addison, writing to Congreve in October, 1699, 
 was more favourably impressed with Fontainebleau. 
 " I am however so singular as to prefer Fontaine- 
 bleau to all the rest. It is situated among rocks 
 and woods that give you a fine variety of Savage 
 prospects. . . . The cascades seem to break through 
 the Clefts and cracks of Rocks that are cover'd 
 over with Moss, and look as if they were piled upon 
 one another by Accident. There is an Artificial 
 Wildness in the Meadows, Walks and Canals, and 
 ye Gardan instead of a Wall is Fenc'd on the Lower 
 End by a Natural mound of Rock-work that strikes 
 the Eye very Agreeably " {Life of Joseph Addison, 
 by Lucy Aikin, 1843, »■ P- IT)- \ 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 37 
 
 the stones hanging over, and menacing 
 ruin, is built an hermitage. 1 In these soli- 
 tudes, rogues frequently lurk and do mis- 
 chief (and for whom we were all well 
 appointed with our carabines) ; bat we 
 arrived safe in the evening at the village, 
 where we lay at the Home, going early 
 next morning to the Palace. 
 
 This House is nothing so stately and 
 uniform as Hampton Court, but Francis I. 
 began much to beautify it ; most of all 
 Henry IV. and (not a little) the late King. 2 
 It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and 
 galleries ; in the longest, which is 360 feet 
 long, and 18 broad, are painted the victories 
 of that great Prince, Henry IV. That of 
 Francis I., called the grand Gallery, has 
 all the King's palaces painted in it ; above 
 these, in sixty pieces of excellent work in 
 fresco, is the History of Ulysses, from 
 Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of 
 Henry III., esteemed the most renowned 
 in Europe for the design. 3 The Cabinet 
 is full of excellent pictures, especially a 
 Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the 
 Guards is a piece of tapestry painted on 
 the wall, very naturally, representing the 
 victories of Charles VII. over our country- 
 In the Salle des Festins is a rare 
 
 men. 
 
 Chimney-piece, and Henry IV. on horse- 
 back, of white marble, esteemed worth 
 18,000 crowns ; Clementia and Pax, nobly 
 done. On columns of jasper, two lions of 
 brass. The new stairs, and a half-circular 
 court, are of modern and good architecture, 
 as is a chapel built by Louis XIII. , all of 
 jasper, with several incrustations of marble 
 through the inside. 
 
 Having seen the rooms, we went to the 
 volary, which has a cupola in the middle 
 of it, great trees and bushes, it being full 
 of birds who drank at two fountains. 
 There is also a fair tennis-court, and noble 
 stables ; but the beauty of all are the 
 gardens. In the Court of the Fountains 
 stand divers antiquities and statues, especi- 
 ally a Mercury. In the Queen's Garden is 
 a Diana ejecting a fountain, with numerous 
 other brass statues. 
 
 1 [This, which is stated to have been above the 
 Gorges d'Apremont and de Franchard, dated from 
 Philippe-Auguste. It was destroyed by Louis XIV.] 
 
 2 [Louis XIII., d. 14th May, 1643.] 
 
 3 [A number of these, owing to their licentious 
 character, were effaced by Anne of Austria when, 
 in 1653, she became Regent.] 
 
 The great Garden, 180 toises long and 
 154 wide, has in the centre a fountain of 
 Tiber of a Colossean figure of brass, with 
 the Wolf over Romulus and Remus. 1 At 
 each corner of the garden rises a fountain. 
 In the garden of the piscina, is a Hercules 
 of white marble : next, is that of the pines, 
 and without that a canal of an English 
 mile in length, at the end of which rise 
 three jettos in the form of a fleur-de-lis, of 
 a great height ; on the margin are excellent 
 walks planted with trees. The carps come 
 familiarly to hand [to be fed]. Hence they 
 brought us to a spring, which they say 
 being first discovered by a dog, gave occa- 
 sion of beautifying this place, both with 
 the palace and gardens. 2 The white and 
 terrific rocks at some distance in the forest, 
 yield one of the most august and stupendous 
 prospects imaginable. The park about 
 this place is very large, and the town full 
 of noblemen's houses. 
 
 Next morning, we were invited by a 
 painter, who was keeper of the pictures 
 and rarities, to see his own collection. We 
 were led through a gallery of old Rosso' s 
 work, 8 at the end of which, in another 
 cabinet, were three Madonnas of Raphael, 
 and two of Andrea del Sarto. In the 
 Academy where the painter himself wrought, 
 was a St. Michael, of Raphael, very rare ; 
 St. John Baptist, of Leonardo, and a 
 Woman's head ; a Queen of Sicily, and 
 St. Margaret, of Raphael ; two more 
 Madonnas, whereof one very large, by the 
 same hand ; some more of del Sarto ; a 
 St. Jerome, of Pierino del Vaga ; the Rape 
 of Proserpine, very good ; and a great 
 number of drawings. 
 
 Returning part of our way to Paris, that 
 day, we visited a house called Maison 
 Rouge, having an excellent prospect, grot, 
 
 1 ["At the toppe of it there is represented in 
 brasse the Image of Romulus very largely made, 
 lying sidelong and leaning, upon one of his elbowes. 
 Under one of his legs is carved the shee Wolfe, with 
 Romulus and Remus very little, like sucklings, 
 sucking at her teats" (Coryat in 1608, Crudities> 
 1776, i. 36).] 
 
 2 [The "Fontaine Bleau " or "de Belle Eau 
 (supposed by some to give its name to the place), 
 the source of which was lost in forming the artificial 
 ponds. The gardens at Fontainebleau were laid 
 out by Le N3tre for Louis XIV.] 
 
 3 [Giovanbattista Rosso (Makre Roux), 1496- 
 1541, a Florentine who designed the Gallery of 
 Francis I. at Fontainebleau, and executed many of 
 the pictures.] 
 
38 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 and fountains, one whereof rises fifty feet, 
 and resembles the noise of a tempest, battles 
 of guns, etc., at its issue. 
 
 Thence to Essonnes, a house of Monsieur 
 Essling, who is a great virtuoso ; there 
 are many good paintings in it ; but nothing 
 so observable as his gardens, fountains, 
 fish -pools, especially that in a triangular 
 form, the water cast out by a multitude of 
 heads about it : there is a noble cascade 
 and pretty baths, with all accommodations. 
 Under a marble table is a fountain of 
 serpents twisting about a globe. 
 
 We alighted next at Corbeil, a town 
 famous for the siege by Henry IV. Here 
 we slept, and returned next morning to 
 Paris. 
 
 1S1A March. I went with Sir J. Cotton, 
 a Cambridgeshire Knight, 1 a journey into 
 Normandy. The first day, we passed by 
 Gaillon, the Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. 2 
 The gardens are highly commended, but 
 we did not go in, intending to reach 
 Pontoise by dinner. This town is built in 
 a very gallant place, has a noble bridge 
 over the Oise, and is well refreshed with 
 fountains. 
 
 This is the first town in Normandy, and 
 the farthest that the vineyards extend to on 
 this side of the country, which is fuller of 
 plains, wood, and enclosures, with some 
 towns towards the sea, very like England. 
 
 We lay this night at a village, called 
 Magny. The next day, descending a very 
 steep hill, we dined at Fleury, after riding 
 five leagues down St. Catherine, to Rouen, 
 which affords a goodly prospect, to the 
 ruins of that chapel and mountain. This 
 country so abounds with wolves that a 
 shepherd whom we met, told us one of his 
 companions was strangled by one of them 
 the day before, and that in the midst of his 
 flock. The fields are mostly planted with 
 pears and apples, and other cider fruits. 
 It is plentifully furnished with quarries of 
 stone and slate, and hath iron in abundance. 
 
 I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, 
 which is a very large city, on the Seine, 
 having two smaller rivers besides, called 
 the Aubette and Robec. There stand yet 
 
 1 [Sir John Cotton, 1621-1701, third Baronet. 
 See post, under 12th March, 1668, for reference to 
 his library.] 
 
 2 [Part only of the chateau of the Archbishops of 
 Rouen now remains, the major portion having been 
 demolished at the Revolution.] 
 
 the ruins of a magnificent bridge of stone, 1 
 now supplied by one of boats only, to 
 which come up vessels of considerable 
 burden. The other side of the water con- 
 sists of meadows, and there have the Re- 
 formed a Church. 
 
 The Cathedral Notre Dame was built, 
 as they acknowledge, by the English ; 
 some English words graven in Gothic 
 characters upon the front seem to confirm 
 it. The towers and whole church are full 
 of carving. It has three steeples, with a 
 pyramid ; in one of these, I saw the famous 
 bell so much talked of, thirteen feet in 
 height, thirty-two round, the diameter 
 eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds. 2 
 
 In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a 
 Cardinal of that name, 3 lies his body, with 
 several fair monuments. The Choir has 
 behind it a great dragon painted on the 
 wall, which they say had done much harm 
 to the inhabitants, till vanquished by St. 
 Romain, their Archbishop ; for which there 
 is an annual procession. It was now near 
 Easter, and many images were exposed 
 with scenes and stories representing the 
 Passion ; made up of little puppets, to 
 which there was great resort and devotion, 
 with offerings. Before the church is a fair 
 palace. St. Ouen is another goodly church 
 and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the 
 King hath lodgings, when he makes his 
 progress through these parts. The 
 structure, where the Court of Parliament 
 is kept, 4 is very magnificent, containing 
 very fair halls and chambers, especially La 
 Chambre Doree. The town-house is also 
 well built, and so are some gentlemen's 
 houses ; but most part of the rest are of 
 timber, like our merchants' in London, in 
 the wooden part of the city. 
 
 21st. On Easter Monday, we dined 
 at Totes, a solitary inn between Rouen 
 and Dieppe, at which latter place we 
 
 1 [Built, in 1 167, by Queen Matilda, daughter of 
 Henry I. It lasted till the middle of the fifteenth 
 century, when the bridge of boats was substituted.] 
 
 2 [In the south-west tower (Tour cie Beurre). 
 It was called George d'Amboise after the Cardinal 
 of that name (Archbishop of Rouen, and the popular 
 Minister of Louis XII.), and was melted at the 
 Revolution, all but a fragment in the Museum.] 
 
 > 3 [George d'Amboise, 1460-1510, above men- 
 tioned. His body, and that of his brother, were 
 torn from their graves in 1793, and the lead of the 
 coffins melted.] 
 
 4 [Now the Salle d 'Assises. .] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 39 
 
 arrived. This town is situated between 
 two mountains, not unpleasantly, and is 
 washed on the north by our English seas. 
 
 The port is commodious ; but the 
 entrance difficult. It has one very ample 
 and fair street, in which is a pretty church. 
 The Fort Pollet consists of a strong earth- 
 work, and commands the haven, as on the 
 other side does the castle, which is also 
 well fortified, with the citadel before it ; 
 nor is the town itself a little strong. It 
 abounds with workmen, who make and 
 sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells ; 
 and indeed whatever the East Indies afford 
 of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic 
 rarities are here to be had, with abundant 
 choice. 
 
 l^rd March. We passed along the coast 
 by a very rocky and rugged way, which 
 forced us to alight many times before we 
 came to Havre de Grace, where we lay that 
 night. 
 
 The next morning, we saw the citadel, 
 strong and regular, well stored with 
 artillery and ammunition of all sorts: l the 
 works furnished with fair brass cannon, 
 having a motto, Ratio ultima Regum. The 
 allogements of the garrison are uniform ; a 
 spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, 
 a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the 
 Governor. The Duke of Richelieu being 
 now in the fort, we went to salute him ; 
 who received us very civilly, and com- 
 manded that we should be showed what- 
 ever we desired to see. The citadel was 
 built by the late Cardinal de Richelieu, 
 uncle of the present Duke, and may be 
 esteemed one of the strongest in France. 
 The haven is very capacious. 
 
 When we had done here, we embarked 
 ourselves and horses to pass to Honfleur, 
 about four or five leagues distant, where 
 the Seine falls into the sea. It is a poor 
 fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so 
 much as the odd, yet useful habits which 
 the good women wear, of bears' and other 
 skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along 
 these maritime coasts. 
 
 2$tk. We arrived at Caen, a noble 
 and beautiful town, situate on the river 
 Orne, which passes quite through it, the 
 
 1 [Where Cardinal Mazarin, six years later, shut 
 up the leaders of the Fronde, Conde, Conti, and 
 Longueville, — " the lion, the ape, and the fox," 
 according to Gaston of Orleans.] 
 
 two sides of the town joined only by a 
 bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the 
 Angel, where we were very well used, the 
 place being abundantly furnished with pro- 
 visions, at a cheap rate. The most con- 
 siderable object is the great Abbey and 
 Church, large and rich, built after the 
 Gothic manner, having two spires and 
 middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. 
 The choir round and large, in the centre 
 whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, 
 but plain sepulchre, 1 is this inscription : 
 
 Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et 
 clementissimi conquestoris, Gulielmi, dum 
 viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum 
 Cenomannorumque Principis, hujus insignis 
 Abbatise piissimi Fundatoris : Cum anno 
 1562 vesano haereticorum furore direptum 
 fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Ab- 
 batiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tarn 
 beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a 
 D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne de Bailhache 
 Assastorii proto priore. D. D. 
 
 On the other side are these monkish 
 rhymes : 
 
 Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos 
 
 Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, 
 Et Cenomanensis virtute coercuit ensis, 
 
 Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. 
 Rex magnus parva jacet hac Gulielm 8 in urna, 
 
 Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. 
 Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus 
 
 Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obiit. 
 
 We went to the castle, which is strong 
 and fair, and so is the town-house, built 
 on the bridge which unites the two towns. 
 Here are schools and an University for the 
 Jurists. 
 
 The whole town is handsomely built of 
 that excellent stone so well known by that 
 name in England. 2 I was led to a pretty 
 garden, planted with hedges of alaternus, 3 
 having at the entrance a screen at an 
 exceeding height, accurately cut in topiary 
 work, with well - understood architecture, 
 
 1 (This was a second tomb, erected circa 1626, 
 which had replaced an earlier one, and only con- 
 tained a thigh-bone of the Conqueror. "In 1742, 
 this second tomb, being considered to be in the way 
 of the services of the church, was removed to 
 another part of the choir, where it was destroyed 
 and rifled in 1793, when the one remaining frag- 
 ment of the body of William was lost for ever " 
 (Hare's North-Western France, 1895, 116).] 
 
 2 [Caen stone, akin to our Bath and Portland 
 stone.] 
 
 3 [A kind of buckthorn.] 
 
40 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and 
 other ornaments, with great curiosity ; 
 some of the columns curiously wreathed, 
 others spiral, all according to art. 
 
 28M March. We went towards Paris, 
 lying the first night at Evreux, a Bishop's 
 seat, an ancient town, with a fair cathedral ; 
 so the next day we arrived at Paris. 
 
 1st April. I went to see more exactly 
 the rooms of the fine Palace of Luxembourg, 
 in the Faubourg St. Germain, built by 
 Marie de Medicis, 1 and I think one of the 
 most noble, entire, and finished piles that 
 is to be seen, taking it with the garden 
 and all its accomplishments. The gallery 
 is of the painting of Rubens, being the 
 history of the Foundress's Life, rarely 
 designed ; 2 at the end of it is the Duke 
 of Orleans' library, 3 well furnished with 
 excellent books, all bound in maroquin 
 and gilded, the valance of the shelves being 
 of green velvet, fringed with gold. In the 
 cabinet joining to it are only the smaller 
 volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and 
 an excellent collection of shells and agates, 
 whereof some are prodigiously rich. This 
 Duke being very learned in medals and 
 plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. 4 
 There are other spacious, noble, and 
 princely furnished rooms, which look 
 towards the gardens, which are nothing 
 inferior to the rest. 
 
 The court below is formed into a square 
 by a corridor, having over the chief 
 
 1 [Of which the architect was Salomon Debrosse, 
 d. 1626, who may have recalled the Pitti Palace 
 at Florence, where Marie de Medicis had passed 
 her younger days. Addison certainly noticed a 
 similarity. " It " [the Pitti Palace], he says, " is 
 not unlike that of Luxe mburg at Paris, which was 
 built by Mary of Medicis, and for that Reason 
 perhaps the Workmen fell into the Tuscan humour " 
 {Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. 409). The Luxem- 
 bourg, now known as the Palais du Senat, was 
 built 1615-20.] 
 
 2 [Now in the Louvre (twenty-one pictures). 
 They were painted between 1621-25. J 
 
 3 [Gaston-Jean-Baptiste, Duke of Orleans, 1608- 
 60, the King's uncle, second son, by Henry IV., of 
 Marie de Medicis, who bequeathed this palace to 
 him. He was Lieutenant-General, and Governor 
 of Languedoc] 
 
 4 ["There is no man alive in competition with 
 him for his exquisite skill in medailes, topical 
 memory, and extraordinary knowledge in plants : 
 in both which faculties the most reputed Antiquaries 
 and greatest Botanists do (and that with reason) 
 acknowledg him both their prince and superiour " 
 (Evelyn's State of France; Miscellaneous ll r rit- 
 ings, 1825, p. 55.] 
 
 entrance a stately cupola, covered with 
 stone : the rest is cloistered and arched 
 on pilasters of rustic work. The terrace 
 ascending before the front, paved with 
 white and black marble, is balustered with 
 white marble, exquisitely polished. 
 
 Only the hall below is low, and the 
 staircase somewhat of a heavy design, but 
 the faccia towards the parterre, which is 
 also arched and vaulted with stone, is of 
 admirable beauty, and full of sculpture. 
 
 The gardens are near an English mile 
 in compass, enclosed with a stately wall, 
 and in a good air. 1 The parterre is indeed 
 of box, but so rarely designed and 
 accurately kept cut, that the embroidery 
 makes a wonderful effect to the lodgings 
 which front it. 'Tis divided into four 
 squares, and as many circular knots, having 
 in the centre a noble basin of marble near 
 thirty feet diameter (as I remember), in 
 which a Triton of brass holds a dolphin, 
 that casts a girandola of water near thirty 
 feet high, playing perpetually, the water 
 being conveyed from Arceuil by an aque- 
 duct of stone, built after the old Roman 
 magnificence. About this ample parterre, 
 the spacious walks and all included, runs a 
 border of freestone, adorned with pedestals 
 for pots and statues, and part of it near the 
 steps of the terrace, with a rail and baluster 
 of pure white marble. 
 
 The walks are exactly fair, long, and 
 variously descending, and so justly planted 
 with limes, elms, and other trees, that 
 nothing can be more delicious, especially 
 that of the hornbeam hedge, which being 
 high and stately, buts full on the fountain. 
 
 Towards the farther end, is an excava- 
 tion intended for a vast fish-pool, but 
 never finished, and near it is an inclosure 
 for a garden of simples, well-kept ; and 
 here the Duke keeps tortoises in great 
 number, who use the pool of water on one 
 side of the garden. Here is also a 
 conservatory for snow. At the upper part, 
 towards the palace, is a grove of tall elms 
 cut into a star, every ray being a walk, 
 whose centre is a large fountain. 
 
 The rest of the ground is made into 
 several inclosures (all hedge-work or rows 
 of trees) of whole fields, meadows, bocages, 
 some of them containing divers acres. 
 
 1 [They were also designed originally by 
 Debrosse.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 4» 
 
 Next the street side, and more contiguous 
 to the house, are knots in trail, or grass 
 work, where likewise runs a fountain. 
 Towards the grotto and stables, within a 
 wall, is a garden of choice flowers, in which 
 the Duke spends many thousand pistoles. 
 In sum, nothing is wanted to render this 
 palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and 
 magnificent ; nor is it one of the least 
 diversions to see the number of persons of 
 quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent 
 it, and to whom all access is freely permitted, 
 so that you shall see some walks and retire- 
 ments full of gallants and ladies ; in others, 
 melancholy friars ; in others, studious 
 scholars ; in others, jolly citizens, some 
 sitting or lying on the grass, others running 
 and jumping ; some playing at bowls and 
 ball, others dancing and singing ; and all 
 this without the least disturbance, by reason 
 of the largeness of the place. 
 
 What is most admirable, you see no 
 gardeners, or men at work, and yet all is 
 kept in such exquisite order, as if they did 
 nothing else but work ; it is so early in the 
 morning, that all is despatched and done 
 without the least confusion. 
 
 I have been the larger in the description 
 of this paradise, for the extraordinary 
 delight I have taken in those sweet retire- 
 ments. The Cabinet and Chapel nearer 
 the garden-front have some choice pictures. 
 All the houses near this are also very noble 
 palaces, especially Petit- Luxembourg. 1 The 
 ascent of the street is handsome from its 
 breadth, situation, and buildings. 
 
 I went next to view Paris from the top 
 of St. Jacques' steeple, 2 esteemed the highest 
 
 1 [This, now the residence of the president of the 
 Senate, was a dependency of the greater palace, 
 erected ahout the same date by Richelieu, who 
 lived here till the Palais Royal was built.] 
 
 2 [St. Jacques-la-Boucherie, of which the tower 
 only now remains, the church having been pulled 
 down in 1789. In climbing it Evelyn was follow- 
 ing Howell's suggestion {Forreine Travell, 1642, 
 Sect, iii.); and also Lassels, who says {Voyage of 
 Italy, 1670, i. p. 121) : " I would wish my Traveler 
 ... to make it his constant practise (as I did) to 
 mount up the chief Steeple of all great townes." 
 
 Richard Lassels, often referred to in the succeed- 
 ing notes, was a Roman Catholic divine who died 
 at Montpellier in 1668. He had been professor of 
 classics at the English College at Douay. His 
 travels (in two volumes) were published posthum- 
 ously at Paris by Vincent du Moutier, under the 
 care of his friend, S. Wilson, who inscribed them 
 to Richard, Lord Lumley, Viscount Waterford. 
 Evelyn was probably familiar with the book ; and 
 
 in the town, from whence I had a full view 
 of the whole city and suburbs, both which, 
 as I judge, are not so large as London : 
 though the dissimilitude of their several 
 forms and situations, this being round, 
 London long, — renders it difficult to deter- 
 mine ; but there is no comparison between 
 the buildings, palaces, and materials, this 
 being entirely of stone and more sumptuous, 
 though I esteem our piazzas to exceed 
 theirs. 
 
 Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's 
 churchyard, where the story of the devour- 
 ing quality of the ground (consuming bodies 
 in twenty-four hours), 1 the vast charnels of 
 bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchres, 
 took up much of my time, together with 
 the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas 
 Flamel's 2 philosophical work, who had 
 founded this church, and divers other 
 charitable establishments, as he testifies in 
 his book. 
 
 Here divers clerks get their livelihood 
 by inditing letters for poor maids and other 
 ignorant people who come to them for 
 advice, and to write for them into the 
 country, both to their sweethearts, parents, 
 and friends ; every large gravestone serving 
 for a table. Joining to this church is a 
 common fountain, with good rilievos upon 
 it. 3 
 
 The next day I was carried to see a 
 French gentleman's curious collection, 
 which abounded in fair and rich jewels of 
 all sorts of precious stones, most of them 
 of great sizes and value ; agates and onyxes, 
 some of them admirably coloured and 
 antique ; nor inferior were his landscapes 
 
 perhaps employed it occasionally, when writing up 
 his Memoirs, to refresh his memory.] 
 
 1 ["Tis all one to lie in St. Innocent's church- 
 yard, as in the sands of Egypt," Hydriotaphia, 
 1658 (final par.). The church and churchyard 
 were closed in 1786, and the Rue and Square des 
 Innocents now occupy the site. A later visitor 
 than Evelyn thus describes ths spot: — "St. Inno- 
 cent's churchyard, the public burying-place of the 
 City of Paris for a 1000 years, when intire (as I 
 once saw it,) and built about with double galleries 
 full of skull and bones, was an awful and venerable 
 sight : but now I found it in ruins, and the greatest 
 of the galleries pulled down, and a row of houses 
 built in their room, and the bones removed I know 
 not whither : the rest of the churchyard in the most 
 neglected and nastiest pickle I ever saw any con- 
 secrated place" (Lister's Travels in France, 1698).] 
 
 2 [Nicholas Flamel, the alchemist, 1350-1418.] 
 
 3 [The Fontaine des Innocents, now moved to 
 another site. Its rilievos were by Jean Goujon.] 
 
42 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 from the best hands, most of which he had 
 caused to be copied in miniature ; one of 
 which, rarely painted on stone, was broken 
 by one of our company, by the mischance 
 of setting it up : but such was the temper 
 and civility of the gentleman, that it altered 
 nothing of his free and noble humour. 
 
 The next morning, I was had by a friend 
 to the garden of Monsieur Morine, who, 
 from being an ordinary gardener, is become 
 one of the most skilful and curious persons 
 in France for his rare collection of shells, 
 flowers, and insects. 
 
 His garden is of an exact oval figure, 
 planted with cypress, cut flat and set as 
 even as a wall : the tulips, anemones, 
 ranunculuses, crocuses, etc., are held to be 
 of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of 
 that kind to his house during the season. 
 He lived in a kind of hermitage at one 
 side of his garden, where his collection of 
 porcelain and coral, whereof one is carved 
 into a large crucifix, is much esteemed. 
 He has also books of prints, by Albert 
 [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, etc. His 
 collection of all sorts of insects, especially 
 of butterflies, is most curious ; these he 
 spreads and so medicates, that no corrup- 
 tion invading them, he keeps them in 
 drawers, so placed as to represent a beautiful 
 piece of tapestry. 
 
 He showed me the remarks he had made 
 on their propagation, which he promised 
 to publish. Some of these, as also of his 
 best flowers, he had caused to be painted 
 in miniature by rare hands, and some in 
 oil. 
 
 6th April. I sent my sister my own 
 picture in water-colours, 1 which she re- 
 quested of me, and went to see divers of 
 the fairest palaces of the town, as that of 
 Vendome, very large and stately ; Longue- 
 ville ; Guise ; Conde* ; Chevreuse ; Nevers, 
 esteemed one of the best in Paris towards 
 the river. 
 
 I often went to the Palais Cardinal, be- 
 queathed by Richelieu to the King, on 
 
 1 In the first and second editions of the Diary — 
 says Forster — many trifling personal details, such 
 as this mention of the author having sent his own 
 
 ficture in water-colours to his sister, were omitted, 
 t is not necessary to point them out in detail. 
 They are always of this personal character ; as, 
 among other examples, the mention of the wet 
 weather preventing the diarist from stirring out 
 (see post, 15th November), and that of his coming 
 weary to his lodgings (6th November). 
 
 condition that it should be called by his 
 name ; at this time, the King resided in it, 
 because of the building of the Louvre. It 
 is a very noble house, though somewhat 
 low ; the galleries, paintings of the most 
 illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's 
 baths, presence-chamber with its rich carved 
 and gilded roof> theatre, and large garden, 
 in which is an ample fountain, grove, and 
 mall, worthy of remark. Here I also 
 frequently went to see them ride and exercise 
 the great horse, especially at the Academy 
 of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, 1 
 whose schools of that art are frequented by 
 the nobility ; and here also young gentle- 
 men are taught to fence, dance, play on 
 music, and something in fortification and 
 the mathematics. 2 The design is admirable, 
 some keeping near a hundred brave horses, 
 all managed to the great saddle. 
 
 12th. I took coach, to see a general 
 muster of all the gens d^armes about 
 the City, in the Bois de Boulogne, before 
 their Majesties, and all the Grandees. 
 They were reputed to be near 20,000, 
 besides the spectators, who much exceeded 
 them in number. Here they performed 
 all their motions ; and, being drawn up, 
 horse and foot, into several figures, re- 
 presented a battle. 
 
 The summer now drawing near, I deter- 
 mined to spend the rest of it in some more 
 remote town on the river Loire ; and, on 
 19th April, I took leave of Paris, and, by 
 the way of the messenger, agreed for my 
 passage to Orleans. 
 
 The way from Paris to this city, as 
 indeed most of the roads in France, is 
 paved with, a small square freestone, so 
 that the country does not much molest the 
 traveller with dirt and ill way, as in 
 England, only 'tis somewhat hard to the 
 poor horses' feet, which causes them to 
 
 1 [It must have been at this establishment, or at 
 that of Monsieur del Camp, which Evelyn mentions 
 elsewhere, that he first made acquaintance with 
 Thomas Butler, Earl of Ossory (see post, under 
 26th July, 1680).] 
 
 2 [This was the recognised curriculum. " I 
 followed here [at Paris]," says Reresby in 1658, 
 " the exercises of music, fencing, dancing and 
 mathematics, as before " {Memoirs, 1875, p. 36). 
 These accomplishments, according to Howell (For- 
 reine Travelt, 1642, Sect. iv\), could all be acquired 
 for about 150 pistoles (£110), including lodging and 
 diet. Reresby lived in a pension of the Isle du 
 Palais (see ante, p. 29). ] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 43 
 
 :ide more temperately, seldom going out 
 )f the trot, or grand pas, as they call it. 
 We passed divers walled towns, or villages ; 
 imongst others of note, Chartres and 
 Etampes, where we lay the first night. 
 This has a fair church. The next day, we 
 lad an excellent road ; but had like to 
 ;ome short home : for no sooner were we 
 entered two or three leagues into the 
 Forest of Orleans (which extends itself 
 many miles), but the company behind us 
 were set on by rogues, who, shooting from 
 :he hedges and frequent covert, slew four 
 ipon the spot. Amongst the slain was 
 i captain of Swiss, of the regiment of 
 Picardy, a person much lamented. This 
 lisaster made such an alarm in Orleans at 
 :>ur arrival, that the Privdt Marshal, with 
 lis assistants, going in pursuit, brought in 
 :wo whom they had shot, and exposed 
 :hem in the great market-place, to see if 
 my would take cognisance of them. I 
 lad great cause to give God thanks for this 
 escape ; when coming to Orleans and lying 
 it the White Cross, I found Mr. John 
 Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. 1 
 [n the night a cat kittened on my bed, and 
 eft on it a young one having six ears, eight 
 egs, two bodies from the middle down- 
 wards, and two tails. I found it dead, 
 3Ut warm, in the morning when I 
 uvaked. 2 
 
 2 1st April. I went about to view the city, 
 which is well built of stone, on the side of 
 :he Loire. About the middle of the river 
 !s an island, full of walks and fair trees, 
 with some houses. This is contiguous to 
 :he town by a stately stone-bridge, reach- 
 ing to the opposite suburbs, built likewise 
 Dn the edge of a hill, from whence is a 
 beautiful prospect. At one of the extremes 
 
 1 [Sir Edward Nicholas, 1593-1669, Secretary of 
 State to Charles I. and Charles II., being succeeded 
 jy the Earl of Arlington. He had a seat at West 
 Horsley, where he died. See post, under 14th 
 September, 1665.] 
 
 2 This passage (says Forster) has not been 
 arinted since the quarto editions, and it would be 
 difficult to say what induced its omission in the 
 jctavo editions, unless Evelyn's apparent confusion 
 xs to the name of the inn at Orleans where the 
 xdventure occurred (for he calls it the White Lion 
 is well as the White Cross) may have caused the 
 >riginal editor to doubt the miracle altogether. 
 \s printed in the quarto [1819, i. 57], it begins " I 
 ay at the White Lion, where I found Mr. John 
 Nicholas,, eldest son to Mr. Secretary," etc. (see 
 xote 1, ante, p. 14). 
 
 of the bridge are strong towers, and about 
 the middle, on one side, is the statue of the 
 Virgin Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ 
 in her lap, as big as the life. At one side 
 of the cross, kneels Charles VII. armed, 
 and at the other Joan d'Arc, armed also 
 like a cavalier, with boots and spurs, her 
 hair dishevelled, as the deliveress of the 
 town from . our countrymen when they 
 besieged it. 1 The figures are all cast in 
 copper, with a pedestal full of inscriptions, 
 as well as a fair column joining it, which 
 is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis and a 
 crucifix, with two saints proceeding (as it 
 were) from two branches out of its capital. 
 The inscriptions on the cross are in Latin : 
 "Mors Christi in cruce nos a contagione 
 labis et seternorum morborum sanavit. " 
 On the pedestal: "Rex in hoc signo 
 hostes profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aure- 
 liam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis 
 diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. 
 Jean Buret, m. f." — " Octannoque Galliam 
 servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino 
 factum est illud, et est mirabile in oculis 
 nostris ; in quorum memoria haec nostras 
 fidei Insignia." To this is made an annual 
 procession on 12th May, mass being sung 
 before it, attended with great ceremony 
 and concourse of people. The wine of 
 this place is so strong, that the King's cup- 
 bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never 
 to give the King any of it ; but it is a very 
 noble liquor, and much of it transported 
 into other countries. The town is much 
 frequented by strangers, especially Germans, 
 for the great purity of the language here 
 spoken, as well as for divers other privileges, 
 and the University, which causes the 
 English to make no long sojourn here, 
 except such as can drink and debauch. 2 
 The city stands in the county of Beauce 
 (Belsia) ; was once styled a kingdom, 
 afterwards a duchy, as at present, belong- 
 ing to the second son of France. Many 
 Councils have been held here, and some 
 Kings crowned. The University is very 
 ancient, divided now by the students into 
 that of four nations, French, High Dutch, 
 
 1 [This statue was broken in pieces by the 
 Revolutionists of 1792 to melt into cannon.] 
 
 2 ["They are at ye Cabaret from morning to 
 night " — says Addison of the Germans at Orleans — 
 "and I suppose come into France on no other 
 account but to Drink " (Addison to Mr. Stanyan, 
 February, 1700).] 
 
44 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1644 
 
 Normans, and Picardines, who have each 
 their respective protectors, several officers, 
 treasurers, consuls, seals, etc. There are 
 in it two reasonable fair public libraries, 
 whence one may borrow a book to one's 
 chamber, giving but a note under hand, 
 which is an extraordinary custom, and a 
 confidence that has cost many libraries 
 dear. The first church I went to visit was 
 St. Croix ; it has been a stately fabric, but 
 now much ruined by the late civil wars. 
 They report the tower of it to have been 
 the highest in France. There is the 
 beginning of a fair reparation. 1 About 
 this cathedral is a very spacious cemetery. 
 The town -house is also very nobly built, 
 with a high tower to it. The market-place 
 and streets, some whereof are deliciously 
 planted with limes, are ample and straight, 
 so well paved with a kind of pebble, that 
 I have not seen a neater town in France. 
 In fine, this city was by Francis I. esteemed 
 the most agreeable of his vast dominions. 
 
 2%tk April. Taking boat on the Loire, I 
 went towards Blois, the passage and river 
 being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, 
 we dined at Beaugency, and slept at a little 
 town, called St. Die. 2 Quitting our bark, 
 we hired horses to Blois, by the way of 
 Chambord, a famous house of the King's 
 built by Francis I. in the middle of a 
 solitary park, full of deer, enclosed with a 
 wall. I was particularly desirous of seefhg 
 this palace, from the extravagance of the 
 design, especially the staircase, mentioned 
 by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen 
 were constantly employed in this fabric for 
 twelve years : if so, it is wonderful that it 
 was not finished, it being no greater than 
 divers gentlemen's houses in England, both 
 for room and circuit. The carvings are 
 indeed very rich and full. The staircase is 
 devised with four entries, or ascents, which 
 cross one another, so that though four 
 persons meet, they never come in sight, 
 but by small loop-holes, till they land. It 
 consists of 274 steps (as I remember), and 
 is an extraordinary work, but of far greater 
 expense than use or beauty. The chimneys 
 of the house appear like so many towers. 
 
 1 [The Cathedral of St. Croix was begun by 
 Henri IV. in 1601, and continued under Louis 
 XI1T., XTV.,andXV.] 
 
 2 [St. Die, a village \\ mile from the Chateau de 
 Chambord, — the Versailles of Touraine.] 
 
 About the whole is a large deep moat. 
 The country about is full of corn, and 
 wine, with many fair noblemen's houses. 
 
 We arrived at Blois, in the evening. 
 The town is hilly, uneven, and rugged, 
 standing on the side of the Loire, having 
 suburbs joined by a stately stone bridge, 
 on which is a pyramid with an inscription. 
 At the entrance of the castle is a stone 
 statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as large 
 as life, under a Gothic state ; l and a little 
 below are these words : 
 
 Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, 
 Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu ; 
 
 Felix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis ! 
 Gallica non alio principe digna fuit. 
 
 Under this is a very wide pair of gates, 
 nailed full of wolves and wild-boars' heads. 
 Behind the castle the present Duke Gaston 
 had begun a fair building, through which 
 we walked into a large garden, esteemed 
 for its furniture one of the fairest, especially 
 for simples and exotic plants, in which he 
 takes extraordinary delight. 2 On the right 
 hand is a long gallery full of ancient statues 
 and inscriptions, both of marble and brass ; 
 the length, 300 paces, divides the garden 
 into higher and lower ground, having a 
 very noble fountain. There is the portrait 
 of a hart, taken in the forest by Louis 
 XII. , which has twenty-four antlers on its 
 head. In the Collegiate Church of St. 
 Saviour, we saw many sepulchres of the 
 Earls of Blois. 
 
 On Sunday, being May-day, we walked 
 up into Pall Mall, very long, and so noble 
 shaded with tall trees (being in the midst 
 of a great wood), that unless that of Tours, 
 I had not seen a statelier. 
 
 From hence, we proceeded with a friend 
 of mine through the adjoining forest, to see 
 if we could meet any wolves, which are 
 here in such numbers that they often come 
 and take children out of the very streets ; 3 
 
 1 [He was born in the Castle, and rebuilt it.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 40. " His greatest delight was in 
 his garden, where he had all sorts of simples, plants 
 and trees that the climate could produce, which he 
 pleased himself with studying the names and virtues 
 of" (Reresby's Travels, 1831, p. 25).] 
 
 3 [Reresby confirms this, thirteen years after- 
 wards. " They [the wolves] are so numerous and 
 bold in cold weather, that the winter before my 
 coming thither, a herd of them came into the street 
 and devoured a young child " (Travels, 1831, p. 
 26). See also ante, p. 38.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 45 
 
 yet will not the Duke, who is sovereign 
 here, permit them to be destroyed. We 
 walked five or six miles outright ; but met 
 with none ; yet a gentleman, who was 
 resting himself under a tree, with his horse 
 grazing by him, told us that, half an hour 
 before, two wolves had set upon his horse, 
 and had in probability devoured him, but 
 for a dog which lay by him. At a little 
 village at the end of this wood, we eat 
 excellent cream, and visited a castle 
 builded on a very steep cliff. 
 
 Blois is a town where the language is 
 exactly spoken ; 1 the inhabitants very 
 courteous ; the air so good, that it is the 
 ordinary nursery of the King's children. 
 The people are so ingenious, that, for 
 goldsmith's work and watches, no place 
 in France affords the like. The pastures 
 by the river are very rich and pleasant. 
 
 2nd May. We took boat again, passing 
 by Chaumont, 2 a proud castle on the left 
 hand ; before it is a sweet island, deliciously 
 shaded with tall trees. A little distance 
 from hence, we went on shore at Amboise, 
 a very agreeable village, built of stone, 
 and the houses covered with blue slate, as 
 the towns on the Loire generally are ; 3 but 
 the castle chiefly invited us, the thickness 
 of whose towers from the river to the top, 
 was admirable. We entered by the draw- 
 bridge, which has an invention to let one 
 fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls 
 and spacious chambers, and one staircase 
 is large enough, and sufficiently com- 
 modious, to receive a coach, and land it 
 on the very tower, as they told us had been 
 done. There is some artillery in it ; but 
 that which is most observable is in the 
 
 1 [For which reason Mr. Joseph Addison, some 
 fifty years later, spent twelve months there to 
 acquire the French language at its best. "The 
 place where I am at present," — he wrote to his 
 friend Stanyan in February, 1700,— "by reason 
 of its situation on the Loire and its reputation /or 
 y e Language ; is very much Infested with Fogs 
 and German Counts." Pope, it may be added, 
 touches on the quality of the Blois French : — 
 
 A Frenchman comes, presents you with his Boy, 
 Bows and begins — " This Lad, Sir, is of Blois. . . . 
 His French is pure." 
 
 Imitations of Horace, Ep. II. Bk. ii. 1. 3.] 
 
 2 [The birthplace (1460) of Cardinal George 
 d'Amboise (see ante, p. 38), and the residence of 
 Catherine de Me*dicis.] 
 
 3 [Plus que le marbre dur me plaist Fardoise/ine, 
 
 Plus mon Loyre Gaulois que le Tybre Latin, — 
 sings Joachim du Bellay in his Regrets, 1565.] 
 
 ancient chapel, viz. a stag's head, or 
 branches, hung up by chains, consisting 
 of twenty brow-antlers, the beam bigger 
 than a man's middle, and of an incredible 
 length. Indeed, it is monstrous, and yet I 
 cannot conceive how it should be artificial : 
 they show also the ribs and vertebrae of the 
 same beast ; but these might be made of 
 whalebone. 1 
 
 Leaving the castle, we passed Mont 
 Louis, a village having no nouses above 
 ground, but such only as are hewn out the 
 main rocks of excellent freestone. Here 
 and there the funnel of a chimney appears 
 on the surface amongst the vineyards which 
 are over them, and in this manner they 
 inhabit the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on 
 one side of the river for many miles. 
 
 We now came within sight of Tours, 
 where we were designed for the rest of the 
 time I had resolved to stay in France, the 
 sojournment being so agreeable. Tours is 
 situate on the easy side of a hill on the 
 river Loire, having a fair bridge of stone 
 called St. Edme ; the streets are very long, 
 straight, spacious, well-built, and exceeding 
 clean ; the suburbs large and pleasant, 
 joined to the city by another bridge. Both 
 the church and monastery of St. Martin 
 are large, of Gothic building, having four 
 square towers, fair organs, and a stately 
 altar, where they show the bones and ashes 
 of St. Martin, with other relics. The 
 Mall without comparison is the noblest in 
 Europe for length and shade, 2 having seven 
 rows of the tallest and goodliest elms I had 
 ever beheld, the innermost of which do so 
 embrace each other, and at such a height, 
 that nothing can be more solemn and 
 majestical. Here we played a party, or 
 party or two, and then walked about the 
 town-walls, built of square stone, filled 
 with earth, and having a moat. No city 
 in France exceeds it in beauty, or delight. 
 
 6th. We went to St. Gatien, reported 
 to have been built by our countrymen : the 
 dial and clock-work are much esteemed. 
 
 1 [Reresby, who duly mentions the winding 
 staircase, adds : "In the chapel we saw the horns 
 of a stag, of an incredible bigness, which they tell 
 you swam from the sea, and came out of England ; 
 as also the neck-bone and one of his ribs, of five 
 cubits and a half long" {Travels [in 1656], 1831, 
 p. 26).] 
 
 2 [Reresby calls it "the longest pell mell in 
 France " {Travels, 1831, p. 26). See ante, p. 44.] 
 
4 6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 The church has two handsome towers and 
 spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very 
 noble and venerable. To this joins the 
 Palace of the Archbishop, consisting both 
 of old and new building, with many fair 
 rooms, and a fair garden. Here I grew 
 acquainted with one Monsieur Merey, a 
 very good musician. The Archbishop 
 treated me very courteously. We visited 
 divers other churches, chapels, and mon- 
 asteries, for the most part neatly built, and 
 full of pretty paintings, especially the Con- 
 vent of the Capuchins, which has a prospect 
 over the whole city, and many fair walks. 
 
 St/i May. I went to see their manufactures 
 in silk (for in this town they drive a very 
 considerable trade with silk-worms), their 
 pressing and watering the grograms 1 and 
 camlets, 2 with weights of an extraordinary 
 poise, put into a rolling-engine. Here I 
 took a master of the language, and studied 
 the tongue very diligently, 3 recreating 
 myself sometimes at the mall, and some- 
 times about the town. The house opposite 
 my lodging had been formerly a king's 
 palace ; the outside was totally covered 
 with fleur-de-lis, embossed out of the stone. 
 Here Marie de Medicis held her Court, 
 when she was compelled to retire from 
 Paris by the persecution of the great 
 Cardinal. 
 
 25M. Was the Fete Dieu, and a goodly 
 procession of all the religious orders, the 
 whole streets hung with their best tapes- 
 tries, and their most precious movables 
 exposed ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, 
 and pictures in abundance ; the streets 
 strewed with flowers, and full of pageantry, 
 banners, and bravery. 
 
 6th June. I went by water to visit that 
 goodly and venerable Abbey of Mar- 
 moutiers, being one of the greatest in the 
 kingdom : to it is a very ample church of 
 stone, with a very high pyramid. Amongst 
 other relics the Monks showed us is the 
 Holy Ampoule, 4 the same with that which 
 
 1 [A cloth made with silk and mohair (Old Fr., 
 gros-grairi),~\ 
 
 2 [A stuff made of the hair of the Angora goat. ] 
 
 3 ["His [the foreign traveller's] first study shall 
 be to master the tongue of the country . . . which 
 ought to be understood perfectly, written con- 
 gruously, and spoken intelligently" (Preface to 
 Evelyn's State of \Fra?ice, Miscellaneous Writings, 
 1825, p. 45).] 
 
 4 ["A cruise of oil, or la saint[e] ampoule, which 
 they say St. Martin received from heaven by an Angel 
 
 sacres their Kings at Rheims, this being 
 the one that anointed Henry IV. Ascend- 
 ing many steps, we went into the Abbot's 
 Palace, where we were showed a vast 
 tun (as big as that at Heidelberg), which 
 they report St. Martin (as I remember) 
 filled from one cluster of grapes growing 
 there. 
 
 7th. We walked about two miles from 
 the city to an agreeable solitude, called 
 Du Plessis, 1 a house belonging to the 
 King. It has many pretty gardens, full of 
 nightingales : and, in the chapel, lies 
 buried the famous poet, Ronsard. 2 
 
 Returning, we stepped into a Convent 
 of Franciscans, called St. Cosmo, where 
 the cloister is painted with the miracles of 
 their St. Francis a Paula, whose ashes lie 
 in their chapel, with this inscription : 
 "Corpus Sancti Fran, a Paula 1507. 
 13 Aprilis. concrematur vero ab Hsereticis 
 anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres 
 hlc jacent." The tomb has four small 
 pyramids of marble at each corner. 
 
 qtk. I was invited to a vineyard, 
 which was so artificially planted and 
 supported with arched poles, that stooping 
 down one might see from end to end, a 
 very great length, under the vines, the 
 bunches hanging down in abundance. 
 
 20tA. We took horse to see certain 
 natural caves, called Gouttieres, near 
 Colombiere, where there is a spring with- 
 in the bowels of the earth, very deep 
 and so excessive cold, that the drops 
 meeting with some lapidescent matter, it 
 converts them into a hard stone, which 
 hangs about it like icicles, having many 
 others in the form of confitures and sugar- 
 plums, as we call them. 
 
 Near this, we went under the ground 
 almost two furlongs, lighted with candles, 
 to see the source and spring which serves 
 the whole city, by a passage cut through 
 the main rock of freestone. 
 
 (having broken one of his ribs) and by applying it 
 found present cure" (Reresby's Travels, 1831, 
 p. 27). It was publicly destroyed at Rheims in 
 1793. Reresby also mentions the Tun "as big as 
 a little room. " The Abbey of Marmoutiers (maj'us 
 monasteriuni) was on the right bank of the Loire.] 
 
 1 [The chateau of Plessis-lez-Tours, familiar in 
 ch. iii. of Quentin Durward. It was built by 
 Louis XI., who died there in 1483. Nothing but 
 ruins now remain.] 
 
 2 [Pierre de Roussard, called Ronsard, 1524-85. 
 He had a living at S. C6me-les-Tours.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 47 
 
 28M June. I went to see the palace 
 and gardens of Chevereux, a sweet place. 
 
 2,0th. I walked through the vineyards 
 as far as Roche Corbon, to the ruins of an 
 old and very strong castle, said to have 
 been built by the English, of great height, 
 on the precipice of a dreadful cliff, from 
 whence the country and river yield a most 
 incomparable prospect. 
 
 27M July. I heard excellent music at 
 the Jesuits, who have here a school and 
 convent, but a mean chapel. We have 
 now store of those admirable melons, so 
 much celebrated in France for the best in 
 the kingdom. 
 
 1st August. My valet, one Garro, a 
 Spaniard, born in Biscay, having misbe- 
 haved, I was forced to discharge him ; he 
 demanded of me (besides his wages) no 
 less than 100 crowns to carry him to his 
 country ; refusing to pay it, as no part of 
 our agreement, he had the impudence to 
 arrest me ; the next day I was to appear in 
 Court, where both our avocats pleaded 
 before the Lieutenant Civil ; but it was so 
 unreasonable a pretence, that the Judge 
 had not patience to hear it out. The Judge 
 immediately acquitting me, after he had 
 reproached the avocat who took part with 
 my servant, he rose from the Bench, and 
 making a courteous excuse to me, that 
 being a stranger I should be so used, he 
 conducted me through the court to the 
 street-door. This varlet afterwards threat- 
 ened to pistol me. The next day, I 
 waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him for 
 his great civility. 
 
 l%th. The Queen of England 1 came to 
 Tours, having newly arrived in France, and 
 going for Paris. She was very nobly re- 
 ceived by the people and clergy, who went 
 to meet her with the trained bands. After 
 the harangue, the Archbishop entertained 
 her at his Palace, where I paid my duty 
 to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. 
 
 8t/i September. Two of my kinsmen 
 came from Paris to this place, where I 
 settled them in their pension and exercises. 
 
 1 [Henrietta Maria. She had left Exeter shortly 
 after the birth (16th June) of her youngest child, 
 the Princess Henrietta, or Henriette-Anne, after- 
 wards Duchess of Orleans. Contriving to elude 
 the Parliamentary forces, she had embarked on the 
 14th July for France in a Dutch vessel, landing 
 near Brest on the 16th. The infant princess re- 
 mained at Exeter in the charge of Lady Dalkeith.] 
 
 14A6. We took post for Richelieu, 
 passing by l'lsle Bouchard, a village in the 
 way. 1 The next day, we arrived, and 
 went to see the Cardinal's Palace, near it. 
 The town is built in a low, marshy ground, 
 having a narrow river cut by hand, very 
 even and straight, capable of bringing up 
 a small vessel. It consists of only one 
 considerable street, the houses on both 
 sides (as indeed throughout the town) built 
 exactly uniform, after a modern handsome 
 design. It has a large goodly market-house 
 and place, opposite to which is the church 
 built of freestone, having two pyramids of 
 stone, which stand hollow from the towers. 
 The church is well-built, and of a well- 
 ordered architecture, within handsomely 
 paved and adorned. To this place belongs 
 an academy, where, besides the exercise 
 of the horse, arms, dancing, etc., all the 
 sciences are taught in the vulgar French 
 by professors stipendiated by the great 
 Cardinal, who by this, the cheap living 
 there, and divers privileges, not only de- 
 signed the improvement of the vulgar 
 language, but to draw people and strangers 
 to the town ; but since the Cardinal's 
 death, 2 it is thinly inhabited ; standing so 
 much out of the way, and in a place not 
 well situated for health, or pleasure. He 
 was allured to build by the name of the 
 place, and an old house there belonging to 
 his ancestors. This pretty town is hand- 
 somely walled about and moated, with a 
 kind of slight fortification, two fair gates 
 and drawbridges. Before the gate, towards 
 the palace, is a spacious circle, where the 
 fair is annually kept. About a flight-shot a 
 from the town is the Cardinal's house, a 
 princely pile, though on an old design, not 
 altogether Gothic, but mixed, and environed 
 by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, 
 most richly furnished with tissue, damask,, 
 arras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, 
 and all sorts of antiquities, especially the 
 Caesars, in oriental alabaster. The long 
 gallery is painted with the famous acts of 
 the founder ; the roof with the life of Julius 
 Czesar ; at the end of it is a cupola, or 
 singing theatre, supported by very stately 
 pillars of black marble. The chapel 
 anciently belonged to the family of the 
 
 1 [On the Vienne, a tributary of the Loire.. 
 Richelieu lies to the S.E. of it.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 30.] 3 [A bow-shot.] 
 
46 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1644 
 
 founder. The court is very ample. The 
 gardens without are veiy large, and the 
 parterres of excellent embroidery, set with 
 many statues of brass and marble ; the 
 groves, meadows, and walks are a real 
 Paradise. 
 
 16th Septe?nber. We returned to Tours, 
 from whence, after nineteen weeks' sojourn, 
 we travelled towards the more southern part 
 of France, minding now to shape my course 
 so, as I might winter in Italy. With my 
 friend, Mr. Thicknesse, 1 and our guide, 
 we went the first day seven leagues to 
 a castle called Chenonceaux, 2 built by 
 Catherine de Medicis, and now belonging 
 to the Duke de Vendome, standing on a 
 bridge. In the gallery, amongst divers 
 other excellent statues, is that of Scipio 
 Africanus, of oriental alabaster. 
 
 21st. We passed by Villefranche, where 
 we dined, and so by Mennetou, lying at 
 Viaron-au-mouton [PVierzon], which was 
 twenty leagues. The next day by Murg to 
 Bourges, four leagues, where we spent the 
 day. This is the capital of Berry, an 
 University much frequented by the Dutch, 
 situated on the river Eure. It stands high, 
 is strong, and well placed for defence ; is 
 environed with meadows and vines, and 
 the living here is very cheap. In the 
 suburbs of St. Prive, there is a fountain of 
 sharp water which they report wholesome 
 against the stone. They snowed us a vast 
 tree which they say stands in the centre of 
 France. 3 The French tongue is spoken 
 with great purity in this place. St. 
 Stephen's church is the cathedral, well- 
 built a la Gothique, full of sepulchres 
 without-side, with the representation of 
 the final Judgment over one of the ports. 4 
 Here they show the chapel of Claude de 
 la Chastre, a famous soldier, who had 
 served six kings of France in their wars. 
 St. Chapelle is built much like that at 
 Paris, full of relics, and containing the 
 bones of one Briat, a giant of fifteen cubits 
 high. It was erected by John Duke of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 26.] 
 
 2 [Chenonceaux has also memories of Diane de 
 Poitiers and Louise de Lorraine, widow of Henry 
 III. It escaped the Revolution, owing chiefly to 
 the respect felt for the proprietress, Mme. Dupin, 
 d. 1799, who here entertained Bolingbroke, Voltaire, 
 and Rousseau. The Devin du Village of the last 
 •was first performed in its little theatre.] 
 
 3 [Bourges is said to be in the centre of France.] 
 
 4 [The central door in the W. fagade.] 
 
 Berry, and there is showed the coronet of 
 the dukedom. The great tower is a pharos 
 for defence of the town, very strong, in 
 thickness eighteen feet, fortified with graffs 
 and works ; there is a garrison in it, and a 
 strange engine for throwing great stones, 
 and the iron cage where Louis, Duke of 
 Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near 
 the Town -house stands the College of 
 Jesuits, where was heretofore an Amphi- 
 theatre. I was courteously entertained by 
 a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where 
 we fell into disputation. The house of 
 Jacques Cceur is worth seeing. 1 Bourges 
 is an Archbishopric, and Primacy of 
 Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. 
 Nicholas, 2 and some other English there ; 
 and, on the 23rd, proceeded on my journey 
 by Pont du Charge ; an'd lay that evening 
 at Couleuvre, thirteen leagues. 
 
 24th. By Franchesse, St. Menoux, 
 thence to Moulins, where we dined. This 
 is the chief town of the Bourbonnais, on 
 the river Allier, very navigable. The 
 streets are fair ; the Castle has a noble 
 prospect, and has been the seat of the 
 Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden. 
 After dinner, came many who offered 
 knives and scissors to sell ; it being a town 
 famous for these trifles. This Duchy of 
 Bourbon is ordinarily assigned for the 
 dowry of the Queens of France. 
 
 Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an 
 obscure village, 3 where we lay that night. 
 The next day, we went somewhat out of 
 the way to see the town of Bourbon 
 l'Archambault, from whose ancient and 
 rugged castle is derived the name of the 
 present Royal Family of France. The 
 castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking 
 the town. In the midst of the streets are 
 some baths of medicinal waters, some of 
 them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly 
 walled and adorned as ours in Somerset- 
 shire ; and indeed they are chiefly used to 
 drink of, our Queen being then lodged 
 there for that purpose. 4 After dinner, I 
 
 1 [Afterwards the HStel de Ville.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 43.] 
 
 3 I.e. Varennes, in the Dep. of Allier, not the 
 more noted Varennes - en -Argonne, Dep. of the 
 Meuse. 
 
 4 [Henrietta Maria (see ante, p. 47). She passed 
 some three months at Bourbon, "arriving there in 
 so crippled a condition that she could not walk 
 without being supported on either side, and so 
 weakened in nerves that she was almost always in 
 
44l 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 4$ 
 
 ;nt to see the St. Chapelle, a prime 
 ace of devotion, where is kept one of the 
 orns of our Saviour's crown, and a piece 
 the real cross ; excellent paintings on 
 ass, and some few statues of stone and 
 Dod, which they show for curiosities, 
 ence, we went forward to La Palisse, a 
 llage that lodged vis that night. 
 261/1 September. We arrived at Roanne, 
 tiere we quitted our guide, and took post 
 r Lyons. Roanne seemed to me one of the 
 easantest and most agreeable places imag- 
 able, for a retired person : for, besides the 
 :uation on the Loire, there are excellent 
 ovisions cheap and abundant. It^being 
 te when we left this town, we rode no 
 rther than Tarare that night (passing ,St. 
 /mphorien 1 ), a little desolate village in a 
 .lley near a pleasant stream, encompassed 
 ith fresh meadows and vineyards. The 
 lis which we rode over before we descended , 
 id afterwards, on the Lyons side of this 
 ace, are high and mountainous ; fir and 
 nes growing frequently on them. The 
 r methought was much altered as well as 
 e manner of the houses, which are built 
 Ltter, more after the eastern manner. 
 *fore I went to bed> I took a landscape ' 2 
 this pleasant terrace. There followed 
 most violent tempest of thunder and 
 jhtning. 
 
 27M. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, 
 bich being but six leagues we soon 
 complished, having made eighty - five 
 agues from Tours in seven days. Here, 
 the Golden Lion, rtte de Flandre, 
 met divers of my acquaintance, who, 
 iming from Paris, were designed for Italy. 
 r e lost no time in seeing the city, because 
 being ready to accompany these gentle- 
 en in their journey. Lyons is excellently 
 :uated on the confluence of the rivers 
 tone and Rhone, which wash the walls 
 the city in a very rapid stream ; each 
 these has its bridge ; that over the 
 hone consists of twenty-eight arches, 
 he two high cliffs, called St. Just and 
 :. Sebastian, are very stately ; on one of 
 
 irs. " At the conclusion of the treatment she began 
 to hope she should not die" {Life of Henrietta 
 aria.) by Miss I. A. Taylor, 1905, ii. 311). 
 jnes II. also came to Bourbon shortly before his 
 ath. But the visitor most associated with the 
 ice is Mme. de Montespan.] 
 
 1 [St.-Symphprien-de-Lay, where the ascent of 
 e Montagne de Tarare begins.] 
 
 2 TCf. Anxt n. ervl 
 
 them stands a strong fort, garrisoned. We 
 visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was 
 one of the fairest clocks for art and busy 
 invention I had ever seen. 1 The fabric of 
 the church is Gothic, as are likewise those 
 of St. Etienne and St. Croix. From the 
 top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it 
 has four) we beheld the whole city and 
 country, with a prospect reaching to the 
 Alps, many leagues distant. The Arch- 
 bishop's Palace is fairly built. The church 
 of St. Nizier is the greatest ; that of the 
 Jacobins is well built. Here are divers 
 other fine churches and very noble build- 
 ings we had not time to visit, only that of 
 the Charite, or great hospital for poor in- 
 firm people, entertaining about 1 500 souls, 
 with a school, granary, gardens, and all 
 conveniences, maintained at a wonderful 
 expense, worthy seeing. The place of the 
 Belle Cour is very spacious, observable for 
 the view it affords, so various and agreeable, 
 of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens, preci- 
 pices, and other extravagant and incom- 
 parable advantages, presenting themselves 
 together. The Pall Mall is set with fair 
 trees. In fine, this stately, clean, and 
 noble city, built all of stone, abounds in 
 persons of quality and rich merchants : 
 those of Florence obtaining great privileges 
 above the rest. In the Town-house, they 
 show two tables of brass, on which is 
 engraven Claudius's speech pronounced to 
 the Senate, 2 concerning the franchising of 
 the town, with the Roman privileges. 
 There are also other antiquities. 
 
 7,0th. We bargained with a waterman 
 to carry us to Avignon on the river, and 
 got the first night to Vienne, in Dauphine\ 
 This is an Archbishopric, and the pro- 
 vince gives title to the Heir -apparent 
 of France. 3 Here we supped and lay, 
 having amongst other dainties, a dish of 
 truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found 
 out by a hog trained to it, and for which 
 those animals are sold at a great price. It 
 
 1 [By Nicholas Lippeus of Basle, 1508, much 
 like that of Strasburg.] 
 
 2 [When Censor, a.d. 48. Claudius was born at 
 Lyons. The Bronze Tables were discovered in 
 1528, on the heights of St. Sebastian.] 
 
 3 [" The eldest son of France is, during the life 
 of his father, called the Dauphin, from the stipula- 
 tion (as it seems) made with Umbert : who be- 
 queathed that province [Dauphine] conditionally 
 to Philip de Valois " (Evelyn's State of l ranee, 
 Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, p. 54).] 
 
5° 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 is in truth an incomparable meat. We 
 were showed the ruins of an amphitheatre, 
 pretty entire ; Y and many handsome 
 palaces, especially that of Pontius Pilate, 2 
 not far from the town, at the foot of a 
 solitary mountain, near the river, having 
 four pinnacles. Here it is reported he 
 passed his exile, and precipitated himself 
 into the lake not far from it. The house is 
 modern, and seems to be the seat of some 
 gentleman ; being in a very pleasant, 
 though melancholy place. The cathedral 
 of Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are 
 many other pretty buildings, but nothing 
 more so than the mills where they hammer 
 and polish the sword-blades. 
 
 Hence, the next morning we swam (for 
 the river here is so rapid that the boat was 
 only steered) to a small village called Tain, 
 where we dined. Over against this is 
 another town, named Tournon, where is a 
 very strong castle under a high precipice. 
 To the castle joins the Jesuits' College, 
 who have a fair library. 5 The prospect 
 was so tempting, that I could not forbear 
 designing it with my crayon. 4 
 
 We then came to Valence, a capital city 
 carrying the title of a Duchy ; but the 
 Bishop is now sole Lord temporal of it, and 
 the country about it. The town, having a 
 University famous for the study of the civil 
 law, is much frequented ; but the churches 
 are none of the fairest, having been greatly 
 defaced in the time of the wars. The 
 streets are full of pretty fountains. The 
 citadel is strong and garrisoned. Here we 
 passed the night, and the next morning by 
 Pont St. Esprit, which consists of twenty- 
 two arches ; in the piers of the arches are 
 windows, as it were, to receive the water 
 when it is high and full. Here we went 
 on shore, it being very dangerous to pass 
 the bridge in a boat. 
 
 Hence, leaving our barge, we took 
 horse, seeing at a distance the town and 
 principality of Orange ; and, lodging one 
 night on the way, we arrived at noon at 
 Avignon. This town has belonged to the 
 
 1 [On the slopes of Mont Pipet.] 
 
 2 [The Castle of Salomon. According to Euse- 
 bius and others, Pilate was banished to Vienne, 
 after his return to Rome from Judaea.] 
 
 3 [Founded by the favourite of Francis I., tbe 
 Cardinal de Tournon, in 1542. It was later an 
 licole Militaire.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 49. ] 
 
 Popes ever since the time of Clement V. ; 
 being, in 1352, 1 alienated by Jane, Queen 
 of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates, 
 the soldiers at the guard took our pistols 
 and carbines, and examined us very 
 strictly ; after that, having obtained the 
 Governor's and the Vice- Legate's leave to 
 tarry three days, we were civilly conducted 
 to our lodging. The city is on the Rhone, 
 and divided from the newer part, or town, 
 which is on the other side of the river, by 
 a very fair stone bridge (which has been 
 broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, 
 on which is a strong castle well furnished 
 with artillery. The walls of the city are of 
 large square freestone, the most neat and 
 best in repair I ever saw. It is full of 
 well-built palaces ; those of the Vice- 
 Legate and Archbishop being the most 
 magnificent. There are many sumptuous 
 churches, especially that of St. Magdalene 
 and St. Martial, wherein the tomb of the 
 Cardinal d'Amboise is the most observable. 
 Clement VI. lies buried in that of the 
 Celestines, the altar whereof is exceeding 
 rich : but for nothing I more admired it 
 than the tomb of Madonna Laura, the 
 celebrated mistress of Petrarch. 2 We saw 
 the Arsenal, the Pope's Palace, and the 
 Synagogue of the Jews, who here are 
 distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, 
 so much renowned for the solitude of 
 Petrarch, we beheld from the castle ; but 
 could not go to visit it for want of time, 
 being now taking mules and a guide for 
 Marseilles. 
 
 We lay at Loumas ; the next morning, 
 came to Aix, having passed that extremely 
 rapid and dangerous river of Durance. 
 
 1 [In 1348-1 
 
 2 [In the Church of the Cordeliers, destroyed in 
 the Revolution. It was then, says Arthur Young 
 {Travels, etc., 1792, i. 173), "nothing but a stone 
 in the pavement, with a figure engraven on it partly 
 effaced, surrounded by an inscription in Gothic 
 letters, and another in the wall adjoining, with the 
 armorial of the family De Sade " — to which Laura 
 belonged. The last remains of Laura were taken 
 to the Eibliotheque Nationale in 1793 — says Mr. 
 Augustus Hare — and have been lost. But he quotes 
 a charming quatrain, either by Francis I. or 
 Clement Marot, which was added when the tomb 
 was opened in 1533 : — 
 
 O gentille dine, estant taut estimie, 
 Qui te pourra loiter gu'en se taisant ? 
 Car la parole est toujours reprimie 
 Quand le suj'et surmonte le disant. 
 
 South-Ea stern France, 1890, p. 368.) 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 5* 
 
 In this tract, all the heaths, or commons, 
 are covered with rosemary, lavender, 
 lentiscus, and the like sweet shrubs, for 
 many miles together ; which to me was 
 very pleasant. Aix is the chief city of 
 Provence, being a Parliament and Presi- 
 dential town, with other royal Courts and 
 Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, 
 the houses very high, and the streets 
 ample. The Cathedral, St. Saviour's, is 
 a noble pile adorned with innumerable 
 figures ; especially that of St. Michael ; 
 the Baptisterie, the Palace, the Court, built 
 in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. 
 The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, 
 being furnished with many antiquities in 
 and about it. The Jesuits have here a 
 royal College, and the City is a University. 
 
 Jt/z October. We had a most delicious 
 journey to Marseilles, through a country 
 sweetly declining to the south and Mediter- 
 ranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive- 
 yards, orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, 
 and the like sweet plantations, to which 
 belong pleasantly-situated villas, 1 to the 
 number of above 1500, built all of freestone, 
 and in prospect showing as if they were so 
 many heaps of snow dropped out of the 
 clouds amongst those perennial greens. 
 It was almost at the shutting of the gates 
 that we arrived. Marseilles is on the sea- 
 coast, on a pleasant rising ground, well- 
 walled, with an excellent port for ships and 
 galleys, secured by a huge cham of iron 
 drawn across the harbour at pleasure ; and 
 there is a well-fortified tower with three 
 other forts, especially that built on a rock ; 2 
 but the castle commanding the city is that 
 of Notre Dame de la Garde. 3 In the 
 chapel hung up divers crocodiles' skins. 
 
 We went then to visit the galleys, being 
 about twenty-five in number ; the capitaine 
 of the Galley Royal gave us most courteous 
 entertainment in his cabin, the slaves in the 
 interim playing both loud and soft music 
 very rarely. Then he showed us how he 
 commanded their motions with a nod, and 
 his whistle making them row out. The 
 spectacle was to me new and strange, to 
 see so many hundreds of miserably naked 
 persons, their heads being shaven close, and 
 
 1 [The bastides or country-houses of Provence.] 
 
 2 [Fort St. Nicolas.] 
 
 3 [The church of Notre Dame de la Garde was 
 rebuilt in 1864 on the site of aformer chapel of 1214.] 
 
 having only high red bonnets, a pair of 
 coarse canvas drawers, their whole backs 
 and legs naked, doubly chained about their 
 middle and legs, in couples, and made fast 
 to their seats, and all commanded in a trice 
 by an imperious and cruel seaman. One 
 Turk amongst the rest he much favoured, 
 who waited on him in his cabin, but with 
 no other dress than the rest, and a chain 
 locked about his leg, but not coupled. 
 This galley was richly carved and gilded, 
 and most of the rest were very beautiful. 
 After bestowing something on the slaves, 
 the capitaine sent a band of them to give 
 us music at dinner where we lodged. I 
 was amazed to contemplate how these 
 miserable caitiff's lie in their galley ' 
 crowded together ; yet there was hardly 
 one but had some occupation, by which, as 
 leisure and calms permitted, they got some 
 little money, insomuch as some of them 
 have, after many years of cruel servitude, 
 been able to purchase their liberty. The 
 rising-forward and falling-back at their oar, 
 is a miserable spectacle, and the noise of 
 their chains, with the roaring of the beaten 
 waters, has something of strange and fear- 
 ful in it to one unaccustomed to it. They 
 are ruled and chastised by strokes on their 
 backs and soles of their feet, on the least 
 disorder, and without the least humanity, 
 yet are they cheerful and full of knavery. 
 
 After dinner, we saw the church of St. 
 Victor, where is that saint's head in a 
 shrine of silver, which weighs 600 pounds. 
 Thence to Notre Dame, exceedingly well- 
 built, which is the cathedral. Thence to 
 the Duke of Guise's Palace, the Palace of 
 Justice, and the Maison dti Roi ; but 
 nothing is more strange than the great 
 number of slaves working in the streets, 
 and carrying burdens, with their confused 
 noises, and jingling of their huge chains. 
 The chief trade of the town is in silks and 
 drugs out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and 
 Barbary horses, which are brought hither 
 in great numbers. The town is governed 
 by four captains, has three consuls, and 
 one assessor, three judges royal ; the 
 merchants have a judge for ordinary causes. 
 Here we bought umbrellas against the 
 heats, 1 and consulted of our journey to 
 
 1 [Umbrellas, at this date, though used abroad, 
 were unfamiliar in England. " Temperance and 
 an umbrella must be my defence against the heats ' 
 
52 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 Cannes by land, for fear of the Picaroon 
 Turks, who make prize of many small 
 vessels about these parts ; we not finding 
 a galley bound for Genoa, whither we were 
 designed. 
 
 gt/z October. We took mules, passing the 
 first night very late in sight of St. Baume, 
 and the solitary grot where they affirm 
 Mary Magdalen did her penance. The 
 next day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built 
 on an old foundation ; witness the ruins of 
 a most stately amphitheatre, which I went 
 out to design, being about a flight-shot 
 from the town ; they call it now the Rolsies. 
 There is also a strong tower near the town, 
 called the Vesune, 1 but the tower and city 
 are at some distance from each other. It 
 is a bishopric ; has a cathedral with divers 
 noblemen's houses in sight of the sea. 
 The place was formerly called Forum 
 Julij, well known by antiquaries. 2 
 
 \oth. We proceeded by the ruins of 
 a stately aqueduct. The soil about the 
 country is rocky, full of pines and rare 
 simples. 
 
 l\th. We lay at Cannes, which is a 
 small port on the Mediterranean ; here we 
 agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, 
 and, having procured a bill of health 
 (without which there is no admission at 
 any town in Italy), we embarked on the 
 1 2th. We touched at the islands of St. 
 Margaret and St. Honorat, lately re-taken 
 from the Spaniards with great bravery 
 by Prince Harcourt. Here, having paid 
 some small duty, we bought some trifles 
 offered us by the soldiers, but without 
 
 writes Edward Browne (Sir Thomas Browne's 
 eldest son) from Venice in 1665.] Coryat describes 
 them thus in 1608: — "Also many of them [the 
 Italians] doe carry other fine things'of a far greater 
 price, that will cost at least a duckat, which they 
 commonly call in the Italian tongues umbrelloes, 
 that is, things that minister shadow unto them for 
 shelter against the scorching heate of the sunne. 
 These are made of leather something answerable 
 to the forme of a little cannopy, & hooped in the 
 inside with divers little wooden hoopes that extend 
 the umbrella in a pretty large compasse. They 
 are used especially by horsemen, who carry them 
 in their hands when they ride, fastening the end of 
 the handle upon one of their thighes ; and they 
 impart so long a shadow unto them, that it keepeth 
 the heate of the sunne from the upper parts of 
 their bodies" {Crudities, 1776, i. 135).] 
 
 1 [From Vesuna, its old Roman name.] 
 
 2 [There is some confusion of entries here. 
 Evelyn has apparently mixed up an account of 
 Frejus in Var with Perigueux in Dordogne.] 
 
 going on shore. Hence, we coasted 
 within two leagues of Antibes, which is the 
 utmost town in France. Thence by Nice, 
 a city in Savoy, built all of brick, which 
 gives it a very pleasant appearance towards 
 the sea, having a very high castle which 
 commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now 
 called Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, 
 heretofore Portus Herculis, when, arriving 
 after the gates were shut, we were forced 
 to abide all night in the barge, which was 
 put into the haven, the wind coming 
 contrary. In the morning, we were 
 hastened away, having no time permitted 
 us by our avaricious master to go up and 
 see this strong and considerable place, 
 which now belongs to a prince of the 
 family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has 
 put both it and himself under the pro- 
 tection of the French. The situation is 
 on a promontory of solid stone and rock. 
 The town walls very fair. We were told 
 that within it was an ample court, and a 
 palace, furnished with the most rich and 
 princely movables, and a collection of 
 statues, pictures, and massy plate to an 
 immense amount. 
 
 We sailed by Mentone and Ventimiglia, 
 being the first city of the republic of Genoa ; 
 supped at Oneglia, where we anchored 
 and lay on shore. The next morning, we 
 coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and 
 St. Rem©, where the shore is furnished 
 with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and 
 date trees ; we lay at Porto Maurizio. 
 The next morning by Diano, Aiassio, 
 famous for the best coral fishing, growing 
 in abundance on the rocks, deep and con- 
 tinually covered by the sea. By Albenga 
 and Finale, a very fair and strong town 
 belonging to the King of Spain, for which 
 reason a monsieur in our vessel was ex- 
 tremely afraid, as was the patron of our 
 bark, for they frequently catch French 
 prizes, as they creep by these shores to go 
 into Italy ; he therefore plied both sails 
 and oars, to get under the protection of a 
 Genoese galley that passed not far before 
 us, and in whose company we sailed as far 
 as the Cape of Savona, a town built at the 
 rise of the Apennines : for all this coast 
 (except a little of St. Remo) is a high and 
 steep mountainous ground, consisting all 9 „ 
 of rock-marble, without any grass, tree, or 
 rivage, formidable to look on. A strange 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 53 
 
 object it is, to consider how some poor 
 cottages stand fast on the declivities of 
 these precipices, and by what steps the 
 inhabitants ascend to them. The rock 
 consists of all sorts of the most precious 
 marbles. 
 
 Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley, 
 we encountered a little foul weather, which 
 made us creep terra, terra, as they call it, 
 and so a vessel that encountered us advised 
 us to do ; but our patron, striving to 
 double the point of Savona, making out 
 into the wind put us into great hazard ; 
 for blowing very hard from land betwixt 
 those horrid gaps of the mountains, it set 
 so violently, as raised on the sudden so 
 great a sea, that we could not recover the 
 weather-shore for many hours, insomuch 
 that, what with the water already entered, 
 and the confusion of fearful passengers (of 
 which one who was an Irish bishop, and 
 his brother, a priest, were confessing some 
 as at the article of death), we were almost 
 abandoned to despair, our pilot himself 
 giving us up for lost. And now, as we 
 were weary with pumping and laving out 
 the water, almost sinking, it pleased God 
 on the sudden to appease the wind, and 
 with much ado and great peril we recovered 
 the shore, which we now kept in view 
 within half a league in sight of those 
 pleasant villas, and within scent of those 
 fragrant orchards which are on this coast, 
 full of princely retirements for the sumptu- 
 ousness of their buildings, and nobleness 
 of the plantations, especially those at St. 
 Pietro d' Arena ; from whence, the wind 
 blowing as it did, might perfectly be smelt 
 the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes 
 of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for 
 divers leagues seaward. 1 
 
 16th October. We got to anchor under 
 the Pharos, or watch-tower, built on a 
 high rock at the mouth of the Mole of 
 
 1 [Evelyn refers to this again in the dedication 
 of his Fumifugium (1661) to Charles the Second : 
 — "Those who take notice of the scent of the 
 orange-flowers from the rivage of Genoa, and St. 
 Pietro dell* Arena ; the blossomes of the rosemary 
 from the Coasts of Spain, many leagues off at sea ; 
 or the manifest, and odoriferous wafts which flow 
 from Fontenay and Vaugirard, even to Paris in 
 the season of roses, with the contrary effect of those 
 less pleasing smells from other accidents, will easily 
 consent to what I suggest" (i.e. that it is wise 
 to plant sweet -smelling trees). Miscellaneous 
 Writings, 1825, p. 208.] 
 
 Genoa, 1 the weather being still so foul 
 that for two hours at least we durst not 
 stand into the haven. Towards evening 
 we adventured, and came on shore by the 
 Pratique-house, where, after strict examina- 
 tion by the Syndics, we were had to the 
 Ducal Palace, and there our names being 
 taken, we were conducted to our inn, 
 kept by one Zacharias, an Englishman. 
 I shall never forget a story of our host 
 Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, 
 told us another of his own, being ship- 
 wrecked, as he affirmed solemnly, in the 
 middle of a great sea somewhere in the 
 West Indies, that he swam no less than 
 twenty-two leagues to another island, with 
 a tinder-box wrapped up in his hair, which 
 was not so much as wet all the way ; that 
 picking up the carpenter's tools with other 
 provisions in a chest, he and the carpenter, 
 who accompanied him (good swimmers it 
 seems both), floated the chest before them ; 
 and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, 
 they built another vessel, and so escaped ! 
 After this story, we no more talked of our 
 danger ; Zachary put us quite down. 
 
 17M. Accompanied by a most court- 
 eous marchand, called Tomson, we went 
 to view the rarities. The city is built 
 in the hollow or bosom of a mountain, 
 whose ascent is very steep, high, and 
 rocky, so that, from the Lantern and Mole 
 to the hill, it represents the shape of a 
 theatre ; the streets and buildings so ranged 
 one above another, as our seats are in the 
 playhouses ; but, from their materials, 
 beauty, and structure, never was an arti- 
 ficial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor 
 is any place, for the size of it, so full of 
 well-designed and stately palaces, as may 
 be easily concluded by that rare book in a 
 large folio which the great virtuoso and 
 painter, Paul Rubens, has published, 
 though it contains [the description of] only 
 one street and two or three churches.- 
 
 The first palace we went to visit was 
 that of Hieronymo del Negros, to which 
 we passed by boat across the harbour. 
 Here I could not but observe the sudden 
 
 1 ["At first it was onely a little Fort for to help 
 to bridle Genua, and it was built by Lewis the 
 XII. of France" (Lassels, Voyage of Italy, 1670, 
 i. p. 84).] 
 
 2 [Palazzi di Genova, 139 plates published by 
 Rubens at Antwerp in 1622, from designs probably 
 made at Genoa in 1607.] 
 
54 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 and devilish passion of a seaman, who 
 plying us was intercepted by another 
 fellow, that interposed his boat before him 
 and took us in ; for the tears gushing out 
 of his eyes, he put his finger in his mouth 
 and almost bit it off by the joint, showing 
 it to his antagonist as an assurance to him 
 of some bloody revenge, if ever he came 
 near that part of the harbour again. 
 Indeed this beautiful city is more stained 
 with such horrid acts of revenge and 
 murders, than any one place in Europe, 
 or haply in the world, where there is a 
 political government, which makes it 
 unsafe to strangers. It is made a galley 
 matter to carry a knife whose point is not 
 broken off. 
 
 This palace of Negros is richly furnished 
 with the rarest pictures ; on the terrace, or 
 hilly garden, there is a grove of stately 
 trees, amongst which are sheep, shepherds, 
 and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a 
 grey stone ; fountains, rocks, and fish- 
 ponds ; casting your eyes one way, you 
 would imagine yourself in a wilderness and 
 silent country ; sideways, in the heart of a 
 great city ; and backwards, in the midst of 
 the sea. All this is within one acre of 
 ground. In the house, I noticed those 
 red-plaster floors which are made so hard, 
 and kept so polished, that for some time 
 one would take them for whole pieces of 
 porphyry. I have frequently wondered 
 that we never practised this [art] in England 
 for cabinets and rooms of state, 1 for it 
 appears to me beyond any invention of that 
 kind ; but by their carefully covering them 
 with canvas and fine mattresses, where 
 there is much passage, I suppose they are 
 not lasting in their glory, and haply they 
 are often repaired. 
 
 There are numerous other palaces of 
 particular curiosities, for the marchands, 
 being very rich, have, like our neighbours, 
 the Hollanders,' 2 little or no extent of ground 
 to employ their estates in ; as those in 
 pictures and hangings, so these lay it out 
 on marble houses and rich furniture. One 
 of the greatest here for circuit is that of the 
 Prince Doria, which reaches from the sea 
 to the summit of the mountains. The house 
 is most magnificently built without, nor less 
 
 1 There are such at Hardwick Hall, in Derby- 
 shire, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire. 
 
 2 [Cf. ante, p. 13.] 
 
 gloriously furnished within, having whole 
 tables 1 and bedsteads of massy silver, many 
 of them set with agates, onyxes, cornelians, 
 lazulis, pearls, turquoises, and other precious 
 stones. The pictures and statues are in- 
 numerable. To this palace belong three 
 gardens, the first whereof is beautified with 
 a terrace, supported by pillars of marble : 2 
 there is a fountain of eagles, and one of 
 Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the 
 purest white marble ; they stand in a most 
 ample basin of the same stone. At the side 
 of this garden is such an aviary as Sir 
 Francis Bacon describes in his Sermones 
 jideliujn, or Essays, 3 wherein grow trees 
 of more than two feet diameter, besides 
 cypress, myrtles, lentiscuses, and other rare 
 shrubs, which serve to nestle and perch all 
 sorts of birds, who have air and place 
 enough under their airy canopy, supported 
 with huge iron work, stupendous for its 
 fabric and the charge. 4 The other two 
 gardens are full of orange trees, citrons, 
 and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and 
 statues. One of the latter is a colossal 
 Jupiter, under which is the sepulchre of 
 a beloved dog, for the care of which one of 
 this family received of the King of Spain 
 500 crowns a year, during the life of that 
 faithful animal. The reservoir of water 
 here is a most admirable piece of art ; and 
 so is the grotto over against it. 
 
 We went hence to the Palace of the 
 Dukes, where is also the Court of Justice ; 
 thence to the Merchant's Walk, rarely 
 covered. Near 5 the Ducal Palace we saw 
 the public armoury, which was almost all 
 new, most neatly kept and ordered, sufficient 
 for 30,000 men. We were showed many 
 rare inventions and engines of war peculiar 
 
 1 [In his Voyage 0/ Italy, 1670, i. p. 94, Lassels 
 says that one of these weighed 24,000 lbs.] 
 
 2 [Cf. Lassels, " Its garden towards the Sea is 
 built upon three rowes of -white marble Ray Is borne 
 up by white marble pillars, which ascending by 
 degrees, is so beautifull to behold from the Sea, 
 that strangers passing that way to Genua, take this 
 garden for a second Paradise" (i. p. 92).] 
 
 3 [The Latin title which Bacon chose himself for 
 his Essays in 1638 was Sermones Fideles, sive 
 hiteriora Rerum.\ 
 
 4 [" For Aviaries, I like them not, except they 
 be of that Largenesse as they may be Turffed, and 
 have Living Plants and B ushes set in them ; That the 
 Birds may have more Scope, and Naturall Neastling, 
 and that no Foulenesse appeare in the Floare of the 
 Aviary " {Essay xlvi.— " Of Gardens ")■] 
 
 5 Lassels says (i. p. 89), in the Palace. 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 55 
 
 to that armoury, as in the state when guns 
 were first put in use. The garrison of 
 the town chiefly consists of Germans and 
 Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built 
 wholly of polished marble, was designed 
 by Rubens, and for stateliness of the build- 
 ings, paving, and evenness of the street, is 
 far superior to any in Europe, for the number 
 of houses ; l that of Don Carlo Doria is a 
 most magnificent structure. In the gardens 
 of the old Marquess Spinola, I saw huge 
 citrons hanging on the trees applied like 
 our apricots to the walls. The churches 
 are no less splendid than the palaces ; that 
 of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian 
 marble ; St. Laurence, in the middle of 
 the city, of white and black polished stone, 
 the inside wholly incrusted with marble 
 and other precious materials ; on the altar 
 of St. John stand four sumptuous columns 
 of porphyry ; and here we were showed an 
 emerald, supposed to be one of the largest 
 in the world. 2 The church of St. Ambrosio, 
 belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, 
 exceed all the rest ; and that of the Annun- 
 ciata, founded at the charges of one family, 3 
 in the present and future design can never 
 be outdone for cost and art. From the 
 churches we walked to the Mole, a work 
 of solid huge stone, stretching itself near 
 600 paces into the main sea, and secures 
 the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of 
 all the wonders of Italy, for the art and 
 nature of the design, nothing parallels this. 
 We passed over to the Pharos, or Lantern, 
 a tower of very great height. Here we 
 took horses, and made the circuit of the 
 city as far as the new walls, built of a 
 prodigious height, and with Herculean 
 industry ; witness those vast pieces of whole 
 mountains which they have hewn away, 
 and blown up with gunpowder, to render 
 them steep and inaccessible. They are not 
 
 1 [" The New-Street is a double Range of Palaces 
 from one end to the other, built with an excellent 
 Fancy, and fit for the greatest Princes to inhabit " 
 (Addison's Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. ").] 
 
 2 Lassels calls it a great dish, in which they say 
 here that our Saviour ate the Paschal Lamb with 
 his Disciples ; but he candidly adds that he finds 
 no authority for it in any ancient writer, and that to 
 it must be opposed the statement of the Venerable 
 Bede, that the dish used was of silver ! Of an 
 <s authentic Relick " of St. John, he observes that 
 Cardinal Baronius speaks credibly (i. p. 86). 
 
 3 Two brothers, named Lomellini, allowed the 
 third part of their gains (Lassels, i. p. 87). 
 
 much less than twenty English miles in 
 extent, 1 reaching beyond the utmost build- 
 ings of the city. From one of these pro- 
 montories we could easily discern the island 
 of Corsica ; and from the same, eastward, 
 we saw a vale having a great torrent running 
 through a most desolate barren country ; 
 and then turning our eyes more northward, 
 saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro 
 d' Arena, which present another Genoa to 
 you, the ravishing retirements of the 
 Genoese nobility. Hence, with much 
 pain, we descended towards the Arsenal, 
 where the galleys lie in excellent order. 
 
 The inhabitants of the city are much 
 affected to the Spanish mode and stately 
 garb. 2 From the narrowness of the streets, 
 they use sedans and litters, and not coaches. 
 
 19/// October. We embarked in a felucca 
 for Livorno, or Leghorn ; but the sea run- 
 ning very high, we put in at Porto Venere, 
 which we made with peril, between two 
 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea 
 dashed with great velocity ; but we were 
 soon delivered into as great a calm and a 
 most ample harbour, being in the Gdlfo di 
 Spezia. From hence, we could see Pliny's 
 Delphini Promontorium, now called Capo 
 fino. Here stood that famous city of Luna, 
 whence the port was named Lunaris, being 
 about two leagues over, more resembling a 
 lake than a haven, but defended by castles 
 and excessive high mountains. We landed 
 at Lerici, where, being Sunday, was a great 
 procession, carrying the Sacrament about 
 the streets in solemn devotion. After 
 dinner, we took post-horses, passing through 
 whole groves of olive trees, the way some- 
 what rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards 
 pleasant. Thus we passed through the 
 
 1 Lassels says (i. p. 83), finished in eighteen 
 months, and yet six miles in compass. 
 
 2 Thus described by Lassels (i. p. 95) : " Broad 
 hats without hat-bands ; broad leather girdles with 
 steel buckles, narrow britches with long-wasted 
 doublets and hanging sleeves, to be a. la ?node, as 
 well as in Madrid. And I found all the great 
 Ladyes here to go like the Donnas of Spayne, in 
 Guardinfantas [child -preservers], that is, in horrible 
 overgrowne Verticals of whale-bone, which being 
 put about the waste of the Lady, and full as broad 
 on both sides, as she can reach with her hands, 
 beare out her coats in such a huffing manner, that 
 jhe appears to be as broad as long. So that the 
 men here with their little close britches, looked 
 like tumblers that leap through the houps : and the 
 women like those that danced anciently the Hobby- 
 horse in country iMummings." 
 
56 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1644 
 
 towns of Sarzana and Massa, and the vast 
 marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in 
 an obscure inn, at a place called Viareggio. 
 The next morning, we arrived at Pisa, 
 where I met my old friend, Mr. Thomas 
 Henshaw, who was then newly come out 
 of Spain, and from whose company I never 
 parted till more than a year after. 1 
 
 The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing 
 as any in Italy ; it has contended with 
 Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even 
 Carthage. 2 The palace and church of St. 
 Stefano (where the order of knighthood 
 called by that name was instituted) drew 
 first our curiosity, the outside thereof being 
 altogether of polished marble ; within, it is 
 full of tables relating to this Order ; over 
 which hang divers banners and pendants, 
 with other trophies taken by them from 
 the Turks, against whom they are particu- 
 larly obliged to fight ; though a religious 
 order, they are permitted to marry. At 
 the front of the palace stands a fountain, 
 and the statue of the great Duke Cosmo. 
 The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by 
 John Venipont, a German, consists of 
 several orders of pillars, thirty in a row, 
 designed to be much higher. It stands 
 alone on the right side of the cathedral, 
 strangely remarkable for this, that the 
 beholder would expect it to fall, being built 
 exceedingly declining, by a rare address of 
 the architect ; and how it is supported from 
 falling I think would puzzle a good geo- 
 metrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, 
 standing near it, is a superb structure, 
 beautified with six columns of great 
 antiquity ; the gates are of brass, of admir- 
 able workmanship. The cemetery called 
 Campo Santo is made of divers galley 
 ladings of earth formerly brought from 
 Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as 
 to consume dead bodies in forty hours. 3 
 
 1 [Thomas Henshaw, 1618-1700, of University 
 College, Oxford, and Middle Temple (see post, 
 under 15th February, 1645).) 
 
 2 [Addison calls Pisa "still the Shell of a great 
 City, tho* not half furnish'd with Inhabitants" 
 (Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. 400).] 
 
 3 [Archbishop Ubaldo, 1188-1200, the founder of 
 the cemetery, brought the earth from Palestine. 
 Cf. account of St. Innocent's Churchyard, at Paris, 
 ante, p. 41. "I have been often at St. Innocents 
 church yard, and have seen them dig up bones which 
 have been very rotten after 3 weeks or a month's 
 intendment. The flesh must needs then bee cor- 
 rupted in a far shorter space " (Edward Browne to 
 
 'Tis cloistered with marble arches ; and 
 here lies buried the learned Philip Decius, 1 
 who taught in this University. At one 
 side of this church, stands an ample and 
 well-wrought marble vessel, which hereto- 
 fore contained the tribute paid yearly by the 
 city to Caesar. It is placed, as I remember, 
 on a pillar of opal stone, with divers other 
 antique urns. Near this, and in the same 
 field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built 
 of pure white marble, and covered with so 
 artificial a cupola, that the voice uttered 
 under it seems to break out of a cloud. 
 The font and pulpit, supported by four 
 lions, is of inestimable value for the 
 preciousness of the materials. The place 
 where these buildings stand they call the 
 Area. Hence, we went to the College, to 
 which joins a gallery so furnished with 
 natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, 
 dried animals, skeletons, etc., as is hardly 
 to be seen in Italy. To this the Physic 
 Garden lies, where is a noble palm tree, 
 and very fine water-works. The river Arno 
 runs through the. middle of this stately city, 
 whence the main street is named Lung' 
 Arno. It is so ample that the Duke's 
 galleys, built in the arsenal here, are easily 
 conveyed to Leghorn ; over the river is an 
 arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and 
 serving for a bridge, is nowhere in Europe. 
 The Duke has a stately Palace, before 
 which is placed the statue of Ferdinand the 
 Third ; over against it is the Exchange, 
 built of marble. Since this city came to be 
 under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has been 
 much depopulated, though there is hardly 
 in Italy any which exceeds it for stately 
 edifices. The situation of it is low and 
 flat ; but the inhabitants have spacious 
 gardens, and even fields within the walls. 
 
 21st October. We took coach to Leg- 
 horn, through the Great Duke's new park 
 full of huge cork trees, the underwood 
 all myrtles, amongst which were many 
 buffaloes feeding, a kind of wild ox, 
 short nose with horns reversed ; those 
 who work with them command them, as. 
 our bear-wards do the bears, with a ring 
 through the nose, and a cord. Much of 
 this park, as well as a great part of the 
 
 his father, 17th May, 1664, Sir T. Browne's Works y 
 1836, i. <5i).] 
 
 1 [Philip Decio, 1454 -1535, a famous Italian 
 lawyer.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE D1AR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 57 
 
 country about it, is very fenny, and the 
 air very bad. 
 
 Leghorn is the prime port belonging to 
 all the Duke's territories ; heretofore a 
 very obscure town, but since Duke Ferdi- 
 nand has strongly fortified it (after the 
 modern way), drained the marshes by 
 cutting a channel thence to Pisa navigable 
 sixteen miles, and has raised a mole, 
 emulating that at Genoa, to secure the 
 shipping, it is become a place of great 
 receipt ; it has also a place for the galleys, 
 where they lie safe. Before the sea is an 
 ample piazza for the market, where are the 
 statues in copper of the four slaves, much 
 exceeding the life for proportion, and, in 
 the judgment of most artists, one of the 
 best pieces of modern work. 1 Here, 
 especially in this piazza, is such a con- 
 course of slaves, Turks, Moors, and other 
 nations, that the number and confusion is 
 prodigious ; some buying, others selling, 
 others drinking, others playing, some 
 working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, 
 weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably 
 chained. Here was a tent, where any idle 
 fellow might stake his liberty against a few 
 crowns, at dice, or other hazard ; and, if 
 he lost, he was immediately chained and 
 led away to the galleys, where he was to 
 serve a term of years, but from whence 
 they seldom returned : many sottish persons, 
 in a drunken bravado, would try their 
 fortune in this way. 
 
 The houses of this neat town are very 
 uniform, and excellently painted, a fresco 
 on the outer walls, with representations of 
 many of their victories over the Turks. 
 The houses, though low on account of the 
 earthquakes which frequently happen here 
 (as did one during my being in Italy), are 
 very well built ; the piazza is very fair and 
 commodious, and, with the church, whose 
 four columns at the portico are of black 
 marble polished, gave the first hint to the 
 building both of the church and piazza in 
 Co vent Garden with us, though very im- 
 perfectly pursued. 
 
 1 [They were at the foot of Duke Ferdinand's 
 statue. "These are the 4 slaves that would have 
 stolne away a galley, and have rowed here them- 
 selves alone ; but were taken in their great enter- 
 prize" (Lassels, i. p. 233). Addison also mentions 
 " Donatellfs Statue of the Great Duke, amidst the 
 Four Slaves chain'd to his Pedestal," as among the 
 "noble Sights. f * of Leghorn {Remarks on Italy, 
 1 70S, P« 39 2 )-] 
 
 22nd October. From Leghorn, I took 
 coach to Empoli, where we lay, and the^ 
 next day arrived at Florence, being recom- 
 mended to the house of Signor Baritiere, 
 in the Piazza del Spirito Santo, where we 
 were exceedingly well treated. Florence 
 is at the foot of the Apennines, the west 
 part full of stately groves and pleasant 
 meadows, beautified with more than a 
 thousand houses and country palaces of 
 note, belonging to gentlemen of the town. 
 The river Arno runs through the city, in a 
 broad, but very shallow channel, dividing 
 it, as it were, in the middle, and over it 
 are four most sumptuous bridges, of stone. 
 On that nearest to our quarter are the four 
 Seasons, in white marble ; x on another are 
 the goldsmiths' shops ; 2 at the head of the 
 former stands a column of ophite, upon 
 which a statue of Justice, with her balance 
 and sword, cut out of porphyry, and the 
 more remarkable for being the first which 
 had been carved out of that hard material, 
 and brought to perfection, after the art had 
 been utterly lost ; they say this was done 
 by hardening the tools in the juice of certain 
 herbs. This statue was erected in that 
 corner, because there Cosmo was first 
 saluted with the news of Siena being 
 taken. 3 
 
 Near this is the famous Palazzo di 
 Strozzi, a princely piece of architecture, 
 in a rustic manner. The Palace of Pitti 
 was built by that family, but of late greatly 
 beautified by Cosmo with huge square 
 stones of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corin- 
 thian orders, with a terrace at each side 
 having rustic uncut balustrades, with a 
 fountain that ends in a cascade seen from 
 the great gate, and so forming a vista to 
 the gardens. Nothing is more admirable 
 than the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, 
 urns, pictures, court, grotto, and water- 
 works. In the quadrangle is a huge jetto 
 of water in a volto of four faces, with noble 
 statues at each square, especially the 
 Diana of porphyry above the grotto. We 
 
 1 [These are on the Ponte di Sta. Trinita.] 
 - [The Ponte Vecchio. Longfellow has remem- 
 bered this feature in his sonnet ending — 
 Florence adorns me with her jewelry ; 
 And when I think that Michael Angelo 
 Hath leaned on me, I glory in myself. 
 
 A Masque of Pandora , 1875, 151.] 
 i } [Cosmo I. de Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
 1519-74. Siena was annexed to Tuscany in 1557.] 
 
58 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 .were here showed a prodigious great load- 
 stone. 
 
 The garden has every variety, hills, dales, 
 rocks, groves, aviaries, vivaries, fountains, 
 especially one of five jettos, the middle 
 basin being one of the longest stones I 
 ever saw. Here is everything to make 
 such a Paradise delightful. In the garden 
 I saw a rose grafted on an orange tree. 
 There was much topiary- work, and columns 
 in architecture about the hedges. The 
 Duke has added an ample laboratory, 
 over-against which stands a fort on a hill, 
 where they told us his treasure is kept. 
 In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, 
 living with his Swiss guards, after the 
 frugal Italian way, and even selling what 
 he can spare of his wines, at the cellar 
 under his very house, wicker bottles 
 dangling over even the chief entrance 
 into the Palace, serving for a vintner's 
 bush. 
 
 In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar 
 and reliquary are most rich, and full of 
 precious stones ; there are four pillars of 
 a kind of serpentine, and some of blue. 
 Hence we went to another Palace of the 
 Duke's, called Palazzo Vecchio, before 
 which is a statue of David, by Michael 
 Angelo, 1 and one of Hercules killing 
 Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. 
 The quadrangle about this is of the Corin- 
 thian order, and in the hall are many rare 
 marbles, as those of Leo the Tenth and 
 Clement VII., both Popes of the Medicean 
 family ; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare 
 painting. In the chapel is kept (as they 
 would make one believe) the original 
 Gospel of St. John, written with his own 
 hand ; and the famous Florentine Pan- 
 dects, and divers precious stones. Near 
 it is another pendent Tower like that of 
 Pisa, 2 always threatening ruin. 
 
 Under the Court of Justice is a stately 
 arcade for men to walk in, and over that, 
 the shops of divers rare artists who con- 
 tinually work for the great Duke. Above 
 this is that renowned cimeliarchy, or re- 
 pository, wherein are hundreds of admir- 
 able antiquities, statues of marble and 
 metal, vases of porphyry, etc. ; but amongst 
 the statues none so famous as the Scipio, 
 
 1 [It has now been removed to the Accademia 
 delle Belle Arti.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 56.] 
 
 the Boar, the Idol of Apollo, brought from 
 the Delphic Temple, and two triumphant 
 columns. Over these hang the pictures of 
 the most famous persons and illustrious 
 men in arts or arms, to the number of 300, 
 taken out of the museum of Paulus Jovius. 1 
 They then led us into a large square room, 
 in the middle of which stood a cabinet of 
 an octangular form, so adorned and fur- 
 nished with crystals, agates, and sculptures, 
 as exceeds any description. This cabinet 
 is called the Tribuna, and in it is a pearl 
 as big as an hazel-nut. The cabinet is of 
 ebony, lazuli, and jasper ; over the door is 
 a round of M. Angelo ; on the cabinet, 
 Leo the Tenth, with other paintings of 
 Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Cor- 
 reggio, viz. a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, 
 two Apostles, two heads of Dlirer, rarely 
 carved. Over this cabinet is a globe of 
 ivory, excellently carved ; the Labours of 
 Hercules, in massy silver, and many in- 
 comparable pictures in small. There is 
 another, which had about it eight Oriental 
 columns of alabaster, on each whereof 
 was placed a head of a Caesar, covered 
 with a canopy so richly set with precious 
 stones, that they resembled a firmament of 
 stars. Within it was our Saviour's Passion, 
 and the twelve Apostles in amber. This 
 cabinet was valued at two hundred thousand 
 crowns. In another, with calcedon pillars, 
 was a series of golden medals. Here is 
 also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed 
 with a tortoise-shell, and containing a 
 collection of gold medals esteemed worth 
 50,000 crowns ; a wreathed pillar of oriental 
 alabaster, divers paintings of Da Vinci, 
 Pontormo, del Sarto, an " Ecce Homo" 
 of Titian, a Boy of Bronzini, etc. They 
 showed us a branch of coral fixed on the 
 rock, which they affirm does still grow. 
 In another room, is kept the Tabernacle 
 appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, 
 about which are placed small statues of 
 Saints, of precious materials ; a piece of 
 such art and cost, that, having been these 
 forty years in perfecting, it is one of the 
 most curious things in the world. Here 
 were divers tables of pietra-commessa? 
 
 1 [Paulus Jovius, or Giovio, 1483-1552, was an 
 Italian historian.] 
 
 2 [Pietre-commesse, inlaid marbles peculiar to 
 Florence, often mentioned by Evelyn and other 
 voyagers in Italy. "Who," says Lassels in his 
 Voyage of Italy (defending his " exotick words") 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 59 
 
 which is a marble ground inlaid with 
 several sorts of marbles and stones of 
 various colours, representing flowers, trees, 
 beasts, birds, and landscapes. In one is 
 represented the town of Leghorn, by the 
 same hand who inlaid the altar of St. 
 Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of whom I 
 purchased nineteen pieces of the same 
 work for a cabinet. In a press near this 
 they showed an iron nail, one half whereof 
 being converted into gold by one Thurn- 
 heuser, a German chymist, is looked on as 
 a great rarity ; but it plainly appeared to 
 have been soldered together. There is a 
 curious watch, a monstrous turquoise as 
 big as an egg, on which is carved an 
 emperor's head. 
 
 In the armoury are kept many antique 
 habits, as those of Chinese kings ; the 
 sword of Charlemagne ; Hannibal's head- 
 piece ; a loadstone of a yard long, which 
 bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chain of 
 seventeen links, such as the slaves are 
 tied to. In another room are such rare 
 turneries in ivory, as are not to be described 
 for their curiosity. There is a fair pillar 
 of oriental alabaster ; twelve vast and com- 
 plete services of silver plate, and one of 
 gold, all of excellent workmanship ; a rich 
 embroidered saddle of pearls sent by the 
 Emperor to this Duke ; and here is that 
 embroidered chair set with precious stones 
 in which he sits, when, on St. John's day, 
 he receives the tribute of the cities. 1 
 
 25M October. We went to the Portico 
 where the famous statue of Judith and 
 Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, all of 
 copper ; but what is most admirable is the 
 Rape of a Sabine,' 2 with another man under 
 foot, the confusion and turning of whose 
 limbs is most admirable. It is of one 
 entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, 
 and is most stupendous ; this stands directly 
 against the great piazza, where, to adorn 
 one fountain, are erected four marble 
 statues and eight of brass, representing 
 
 " can speak ... of Wrought Tombes, or inlayd 
 Tables ; but hee must speak of bassi riliein ; and 
 of pietre coitunesse ? If any man understand them 
 not, it's his fault, not mine " (A Preface to the 
 R eader concerning Travelling).] 
 
 1 [Lassels gives a minute description of the con- 
 tents of the Armoury and different cabinets (i. pp. 
 164-177).] 
 
 2 [This, like Donatello's Judith and Holofernes, 
 above mentioned, is in Orgagna's Loggia de' 
 LanzL] 
 
 Neptune and his family of sea-gods, of a 
 Colossean magnitude, with four sea-horses, 
 in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the 
 midst of a very great basin ; a work, I 
 think, hardly to be paralleled. Here is 
 also the famous statue of David, by M. 
 Angelo ; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio 
 Bandinelli ; l the Perseus, in copper, by 
 Benevento, and the Judith of Donatello, 
 which stand publicly before the old Palace 
 with the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colos- 
 sean figures. Near this stand Cosmo de' 
 Medici on horseback, in brass on a pedestal 
 of marble, and four copper basso-rilievos 
 by John di Bologna, with divers inscrip- 
 tions ; the Ferdinand the First, on horse- 
 back, is of pietra-tacca. The brazen Boar, 
 which serves for another public fountain, is 
 admirable. 
 
 After dinner, we went to the Church of 
 the Annunciata, where the Duke and his 
 Court were at their devotions, being a 
 place of extraordinary repute for sanctity : 
 for here is a shrine that does great miracles, 
 [proved] by innumerable votive tablets, 
 etc. , covering almost the walls of the whole 
 church. This is the image of Gabriel, 
 who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and which 
 the artist finished so well, that he was in 
 despair of performing the Virgin's face 
 so well ; whereupon it was miraculously 
 done for him whilst he slept ; but others 
 say it was painted by St. Luke himself. 
 Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of 
 both sexes to it. The altar is set off with 
 four columns of oriental alabaster, and 
 lighted by thirty great silver lamps. There 
 are innumerable other pictures by rare 
 masters. Our Saviour's Passion in brass 
 tables inserted in marble, is the work of 
 John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. 
 
 To this church joins a convent, whose 
 cloister is painted in fresco very rarely. 
 There is also near it an hospital for 1000 
 persons, with nurse-children, and several 
 other charitable accommodations. 
 
 At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince 
 has a stable of the finest horses of all 
 countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Jennets, 
 English, etc., which are continually exer- 
 cised in the manege. 
 
 Near this is a place where are kept 
 several wild beasts, as wolves, cats, bears, 
 tigers, and lions. They are loose in a 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 58.] 
 
6o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 deep-walled court, and therefore to be seen 
 with more pleasure than those at the Tower 
 of London, in their grates. One of the 
 lions leaped to a surprising height, to catch 
 a joint of mutton which I caused to be 
 hung down. 
 
 1 There are many plain brick towers 
 erected for defence, when this was a free 
 state. The highest is called the Mangio, 
 standing at the foot of the piazza which we 
 went first to see after our arrival. At the 
 entrance of this tower is a chapel open 
 towards the piazza, of marble well adorned 
 with sculpture. 
 
 On the other side is the Signoria, or 
 Court of Justice, well built a la moderne, 
 of brick ; indeed the bricks of Siena are 
 so well made, that they look almost as 
 well as porphyry itself, having a kind of 
 natural polish. 
 
 In the Senate- House is a very fair Hall 
 where they sometimes entertain the people 
 with public shows and operas, as they call 
 them. Towards the left are the statues of 
 Romulus and Remus with the wolf, 2 all 
 of brass, placed on a column of ophite 
 stone, which they report was brought from 
 the renowned Ephesian Temple. These 
 ensigns being the arms of the town, are 
 set up in divers of the streets and public 
 ways both within and far without the city. 
 
 The piazza compasses the facciata of the 
 court and chapel, and, being made with 
 descending steps, much resembles the figure 
 of a scallop-shell. The white ranges of 
 pavement, intermixed with the excellent 
 bricks above mentioned, with which the 
 town is generally well paved, render it very 
 clean. About this market-place (for so it 
 is) are many fair palaces, though not built 
 with excess of elegance. There stands an 
 arch, the work of Baltazzar di Siena, built 
 with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not 
 easy to conceive how it is supported, yet 
 it has some imperceptible contignations,' 3 
 which do not betray themselves easily to 
 the eye. On the edge of the piazza is a 
 goodly fountain beautified with statues, the 
 water issuing out of the wolves' mouths, 
 
 1 There seems — says Bray — to be here an omis- 
 sion in the MS. between their leaving Florence 
 and going to Siena. 
 
 2 [" This«/00^receivedthe muzzle," says Lassels, 
 referring to the subjection of the Sienese Republic 
 by Florence in 1555 (i. p. 235).] 
 
 3 [Contignation= joining together (N.E.D.).] 
 
 being the work of Jacobo Quercei, a famous 
 artist. There are divers other public foun- 
 tains in the city, of good design. 
 
 After this we walked to the Sapienza, 
 which is the University, or rather College, 
 where the high Germans enjoy many parti- 
 cular privileges when they addict them- 
 selves to the civil law : and indeed this 
 place has produced many excellent scholars, 
 besides those three Popes, Alexander, Pius 
 II., and III., of that name, the learned 
 /Eneas Sylvius ; and both were of the 
 ancient house of the Piccolomini. 
 
 The chief street is called Strada Romana, 
 in which Pius II. has built a most stately 
 Palace of square stone, with an incompar- 
 able portico joining near to it. The town 
 is commanded by a castle which hath four 
 bastions and a garrison of soldiers. Near 
 it is a list to ride horses in, much frequented 
 by the gallants in summer. 
 
 Not far from hence is the Church and 
 Convent of the Dominicans, where in the 
 chapel of St. Catherine of Siena they show 
 her head, the rest of her body being 
 translated to Rome. 1 The Duomo, or 
 Cathedral, both without and within, is of 
 large square stones of black and white 
 marble polished, of inexpressible beauty, 
 as is the front adorned with sculpture and 
 rare statues. In the middle is a stately 
 cupola and two columns of sundry-streaked 
 coloured marble. About the body of the 
 church, on a cornice within, are inserted 
 the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit 
 is beautified with marble figures, a piece 
 of exquisite work ; but what exceeds all 
 description is the pavement, where (besides 
 the various emblems and other figures in 
 the nave) the choir is wrought with the 
 history of the Bible, so artificially expressed 
 in the natural colours of the marbles, that 
 few pictures exceed it. 2 Here stands a 
 Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the 
 large high altar is a brazen vessel of ad- 
 
 1 [Lassels refers to some of the traditions respect- 
 ing St. Catherine (i. p. 239) ; but Addison wisely 
 says, " I think there is as much Pleasure in hearing 
 a Man tell his Dreams, as in reading Accounts of 
 this Nature " (Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. 392).] 
 
 2 [" I confesse, I scarce saw anything in Italy 
 which pleased me better than this pavement," says 
 Lassels (i. p. 238). Addison is not so enthusiastic. 
 "Nothing in the World can make a prettier Show 
 to those that prefer false Beauties, and affected 
 Ornaments, to a Noble and Majestick Simplicity" 
 (Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. 391).] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 61 
 
 mirable invention and art. The organs 
 are exceeding sweet and well tuned. On 
 the left side of the altar is the library, 
 where are painted the acts of /Eneas Sylvius, 
 and others by Raphael. They showed us 
 an arm of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, 
 they say, he baptized our Saviour in 
 Jordan ; it was given by the King of 
 Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, as an 
 inscription testifies. They have also St. 
 Peter s sword, with which he smote off the 
 ear of Malchus. 
 
 Just against the cathedral, we went into 
 the Hospital, 1 where they entertain and 
 refresh for three or four days, gratis, such 
 pilgrims as go to Rome. In the chapel 
 belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius, 
 their founder, as yet uncorrupted, though 
 dead many hundreds of years. They show 
 one of the nails which pierced our Saviour, 
 and Saint Chrysostom's Comment on the 
 Gospel, written by his own hand. Below 
 the hill stands the pool called Fonte 
 Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure 
 more than food. 
 
 St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near 
 which, yet a little without the city, grows 
 a tree which they report in their legend 
 grew from the Saint's staff, which, on going 
 to sleep, he fixed in the ground, and at his 
 waking found it had grown a large tree. 
 They affirm that the wood of it in decoc- 
 tion cures sundry diseases. 
 
 2.nd November. We went from Siena, 
 desirous of being present at the cavalcade 
 of the new Pope, Innocent X., 2 who had 
 not yet made the grand procession to St. 
 John di Laterano. 3 We set out by Porto 
 Romano, the country all about the town 
 being rare for hunting and game. Wild 
 boar and venison are frequently sold in 
 the shops in many of the towns about it. 
 We passed near Monte Oliveto, where the 
 monastery of that Order is pleasantly situ- 
 ated, and worth seeing. Passing over a 
 bridge, which, by the inscription, appears 
 to have been built by Prince Matthias, we 
 went through Buon Convento, famous for 
 the death of the Emperor, Henry VII., 
 who was here poisoned with the holy 
 
 1 [" Erected," says Addison, " by a Shooe-Maker 
 that has been Beatify 'd, tho' never Sainted " {Re- 
 marks on Italy, 1705, p. 391)-] 
 
 2 John Baptist Pamphili, chosen Pope 15th Sep- 
 tember, 1644, died 7th January, 1655. 
 
 3 [See post, under 22nd November, 1644.] 
 
 Eucharist. 1 Thence, we came to Torri- 
 nieri, where we dined. This village is in 
 a sweet valley, in view of Montalcino, 
 famous for the rare Muscatello. 2 After 
 three miles more, we go by St. Quirico, 
 and lay at a private ostei'ia near it, where, 
 after we were provided of lodging, came in 
 Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, now 
 come from Rome ; he was so civil as to 
 entertain us with great respect, hearing we 
 were English, for that, he told us, he had 
 been once in our country. Amongst other 
 discourse, he related how a dove had been 
 seen to sit on the chair in the Conclave at 
 the election of Pope Innocent, which he 
 magnified as a great good omen, with other 
 particulars which we inquired of him, till 
 our suppers parted us. He came in great 
 state with his own bedstead and all the 
 furniture, yet would by no means suffer us 
 to resign the room we had taken up in the 
 lodging before his arrival. Next morning, 
 we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly 
 called, Monte Amiata, which is of an 
 excessive height, ever and anon peeping 
 above any clouds with its snowy head., till 
 we had climbed to the inn at Radicofani, 3 
 built by Ferdinand, the great Duke, for 
 the necessary refreshment of travellers in 
 so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, 
 we entered a very thick, solid, and dark 
 body of clouds, looking like rocks at a 
 little distance, which lasted near a mile in 
 going up ; they were dry misty vapours, 
 hanging undissolved for a vast thickness, 
 and obscuring both the sun and earth, so 
 that we seemed to be in the sea rather than 
 in the clouds, till, having pierced through it, 
 we came into a most serene heaven, as if 
 we had been above all human conversa- 
 tion, the mountain appearing more like a 
 great island than joined to any other hills ; 
 for we could perceive nothing but a sea of 
 thick clouds rolling under our feet like 
 huge waves, every now and then suffering 
 
 k 
 
 1 [Henry VII., 1263-1313. He is buried in the 
 Duomo at Pisa (see post, under 21st May, 1645).] 
 
 2 The wine so called. 
 
 a ["A vile little town at the foot of an old 
 citadel," says Walpole, who visited it in July, 1740. 
 It reminded him of Hamilton's Bawn in Swift's 
 Grand Question Debated ; and he gives a whimsical 
 account of his borrowing the only pen in the place, 
 which belonged to the Governor, and was sent to 
 him "under the conduct of a serjeant and two 
 Swiss" (Toynbee's Walpole 's Letters, 1903, i. p. 
 74)-] 
 
62 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 L1044 
 
 the top of some other mountain to peep 
 through, which we could discover many 
 miles off: and between some breaches of 
 the clouds we could see landscapes and 
 villages of the subjacent country. This 
 was one of the most pleasant, new, and 
 altogether surprising objects that I had 
 ever beheld. 1 
 
 On the summit of this horrid rock (for 
 so it is) is built a very strong fort, garri- 
 soned, and somewhat beneath it is a small 
 town ; the provisions are drawn up with 
 ropes and engines, the precipice being 
 otherwise inaccessible. At one end of the 
 town lie heaps of rocks so strangely broken 
 off from the ragged mountain, as would 
 affright one with their horror and menac- 
 ing postures. Just opposite to the inn 
 gushed out a plentiful and most useful 
 fountain which falls into a great trough of 
 stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's arms. 
 Here we dined, and I with my black lead 
 pen took the prospect. 2 It is one of the 
 utmost confines of the Etrurian State to- 
 wards St. Peter's Patrimony, since the gift 
 of Matilda to Gregory VII., as is pre- 
 tended. 
 
 Here we pass a stone bridge, built by 
 Pope Gregory XIV., and thence immedi- 
 ately to Acquapendente, 3 a town situated 
 on a very ragged rock, down which pre- 
 cipitates an entire river (which gives it the 
 denomination), with a most horrid roaring 
 noise. We lay at the post-house, on which 
 is this inscription : 
 
 L' Insegna della Posta, e posta a posta, 
 In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta 
 Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta. 
 
 Before it was dark, we went to see the 
 Monastery of the Franciscans, famous for 
 six learned Popes, and sundry other great 
 scholars, especially the renowned physician 
 
 1 [Evelyn's Diary was not printed until long 
 after Goldsmith's death. But Goldsmith had evi- 
 dently seen the same sight in his own wanderings ; 
 and he remembered it when he came to write in 
 11. 189-92 of his Deserted Village — 
 
 As some tall cliff, that lifts its awful form, 
 
 Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm, 
 
 Though round its breast the rolling clouds are 
 
 spread, 
 Eternal sunshine settles on its head.] 
 
 2 An etching of it, with others, is in the library 
 at Wotton. 
 
 «* Some twelve miles from the Great Duke's inn, 
 according to Lassels, i. p. 241. 
 
 and anatomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, 
 who was bred and born there. 1 
 
 /\th November. After a little riding, we 
 descended towards the Lake of Bolsena, 
 which being above twenty miles in circuit, 
 yields from hence a most incomparable 
 prospect. Near the middle of it are two 
 small islands, in one of which is a convent 
 of melancholy Capuchins, where those of 
 the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny 
 calls it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and talks of 
 divers floating islands about it, but they 
 did not appear to us. The lake is en- 
 vironed with mountains, at one of whose 
 sides we passed towards the town Bolsena, 
 anciently Volsinium, famous in those times, 
 as is testified by divers rare sculptures in 
 the court of St. Christiana's church, the 
 urn, altar, and jasper columns. 
 
 After seven miles' riding, passing through 
 a wood heretofore sacred to Juno, we came 
 to Montefiascone, the head of the Falisci, 
 a famous people in old time, and heretofore 
 Falernum, as renowned for its excellent 
 wine, as now for the story of the Dutch 
 Bishop, 2 who lies buried in St. Flavian's 
 church with this epitaph : 
 
 Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est. 
 
 Because, having ordered his servant to ride 
 before, and inquire where the best wine 
 was, and there write Est, the man found 
 some so good that he wrote Est, Est, upon 
 the vessels, and the Bishop drinking too 
 much of it, died. 
 
 From Montefiascone, we travel a plain 
 and pleasant champaign to Viterbo, which 
 presents itself with much state afar off, in 
 regard of her many lofty pinnacles and 
 towers ; neither does it deceive our expecta- 
 tion ; for it is exceedingly beautified with 
 public fountains, especially that at the 
 entrance, which is all of brass and adorned 
 with many rare figures, and salutes the 
 
 1 [Jerome Fabricius, 1537-1619.] 
 _ 2 [Lassels, who vouches for the story, calls him 
 simply "a Dutchman of condition " (i. pp. 244-45). 
 An old Guide Voyageur of 1775 adds (p. 121) some 
 decorative details : — " Le plus beau, c'est que cet 
 Eveque ordonna en mourant que tous les ans a la 
 troisieme fete de la Pentecote, jour de son anniver- 
 saire, on jettat sur sa tombe deux barils de ce vin ; 
 ce qui a ete execute jusqu'a nos jours que cette 
 fondation peu digne d'un Eveque a ete changee en 
 pain & autres choses que Ton donne aux Pauvres." 
 The same authority gives the Bishop's name as 
 Johannes de Fouchris orTouchris.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 63 
 
 passenger with a most agreeable object 
 and refreshing waters. There are many 
 Popes buried in this city, and in the palace 
 is this odd inscription : 
 
 Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes litteris 
 historiographicis in hoc antiquissimo mar- 
 more inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc 
 Divi Laurentij Templo translatam, ad con- 
 versam : vetustiss : patriae monumenta atq' 
 decora hie locandum statuit S.P.Q.V. 
 
 Under it : 
 
 SumOsiris Sum Osiris Sum Osiris 
 
 Rex Jupiter Rex qui ab Itala Rex qu terrarum 
 
 universo in in Gigantes exer- pacata Italiam 
 
 terrarum citus veni, vidi, et decern a'nos quo- 
 
 orbe. vici. rum inventor fui. 
 
 Near the town is a sulphureous fountain, 
 which continually boils. After dinner we 
 took horse by the new way of Capranica, 
 and so passing near Mount Ciminus and 
 the Lake, we began to enter the plains of 
 Rome ; at which sight my thoughts were 
 strangely elevated, but soon allayed by so 
 violent a shower, which fell just as we 
 were contemplating that proud mistress of 
 the world, and descending by the Vatican 
 (for at that gate we entered), that before 
 we got into the city I was wet to the skin. 
 
 I came to Rome on the 4th November, 
 1644, about five at night ; and being per- 
 plexed for a convenient lodging, wandered 
 up and down on horseback, till at last one 
 conducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a French- 
 man, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I 
 alighted, and, having bargained with my 
 host for twenty crowns a month, I caused 
 a good fire to be made in my chamber and 
 went to bed, being so very wet. The next 
 morning (for I was resolved to spend no 
 time idly here) I got acquainted with 
 several persons who had long lived at 
 Rome. I was especially recommended to 
 Father John, a Benedictine monk and 
 Superior of his Order for the English 
 College of Douay, a person of singular 
 learning, religion, and humanity ; also to 
 Mr. Patrick Cary, an Abbot, brother to 
 our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young 
 priest, who afterwards came over to our 
 church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs, 1 physi- 
 
 1 James Alban Gibbs— says Bray— a Scotchman 
 bred at Oxford, and resident many years at Rome, 
 where he died 1677, and was buried in the 
 Pantheon there with an epitaph to his memory 
 
 cians who had dependence on Cardinal 
 Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet ; 
 Father Courtney, the chief of the Jesuits in 
 the English College ; my Lord of Somerset, 
 brother to the Marquis of Worcester j 1 and 
 some others, from whom I received in- 
 structions how to behave in town, with 
 directions to masters and books to take 
 in search of the antiquities, churches, col- 
 lections, etc. Accordingly, the next day, 
 November 6, I began to be very prag- 
 matical. 2 
 
 In the first place, our sights-man 3 (for 
 so they name certain persons here who get 
 their living by leading strangers about to 
 see the city) went to the Palace Farnese, 
 a magnificent square structure, built by 
 Michael Angelo, of the three orders of 
 columns after the ancient manner, and 
 when architecture was but newly recovered 
 from the Gothic barbarity. The court is 
 square and terraced, having two pair of 
 stairs which lead to the upper rooms, and 
 conducted us to that famous gallery painted 
 by Augustine Caracci, 4 than which nothing 
 is more rare of that art ; so deep and well- 
 studied are all the figures, that it would 
 require more judgment than I confess I 
 had, to determine whether they were flat 
 or embossed. Thence, we passed into 
 another, painted in chiaroscuro, represent- 
 ing the fabulous history of Hercules. We 
 went out on a terrace, where was a pretty 
 garden on the leads, for it is built in a 
 place that has no extent of ground back- 
 wards. The great hall is wrought by 
 Salviati and Zuccaro, furnished with 
 statues, one of which being •modern is 
 the figure of a Farnese, in a triumphant 
 
 under a marble bust. He was an extraordinary 
 character. In Wood's Athenae is a long account 
 of him, and some curious additional particulars 
 will be found in Warton's Life 0/ Dr. Bathurst. 
 He was a writer of Latin poetry, a small collection 
 of which he published at Rome, with his portrait. 
 
 1 Thomas, third son of Edward, fourth Earl of 
 Worcester, made a Knight of the Bath by James I., 
 and in 1626 created Viscount Somerset, of Cashel, 
 Co. Tipperary. He died in 1651. 
 
 - I.e. "very active and full of business," — in 
 viewing the antiquities and beauties of Rome. 
 Bailey gives "practical" as the first meaning of 
 this word (see also post, under 8th November, 
 1644). _ 
 
 3 The name for these gentlemen is cicerone, but 
 they affect universally the title of antiquaries. 
 
 4 [Annibale Caracci. Lodovico and Ago^tino 
 assisted him, — Agostino painting the "Triumph 
 of Galatea" and " Cephalus and Aurora."] 
 
6 4 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 C1644 
 
 posture, of white marble, worthy of ad- 
 miration. Here we were showed the 
 museum of Fulvius Ursinos, replete with 
 innumerable collections ; but the major- 
 domo being absent, we could not at this 
 time see all we wished. Descending into 
 the court, we with astonishment contem- 
 plated those two incomparable statues of 
 Hercules and Flora, 1 so much celebrated 
 by Pliny, and indeed by all antiquity, as 
 two of the most rare pieces in the world : 
 there likewise stands a modern statue of 
 Hercules and two Gladiators, not to be 
 despised. In a second court was a tem- 
 porary shelter of boards over the most 
 stupendous and never - to - be - sufficiently- 
 admired Torso of Amphion and Dirce, 2 
 represented in five figures, exceeding the 
 life in magnitude, of the purest white 
 marble, the contending work of those 
 famous statuaries, Apollonius and Taurisco, 
 in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one 
 entire stone, and remaining unblemished, 
 to, be valued beyond all the marbles of the 
 world for its antiquity and workmanship. 
 There are divers other heads and busts. 
 At the entrance of this stately palace stand 
 two rare and vast fountains of garnito 
 stone, brought into this piazza out of 
 Titus's Baths. Here, in summer, the 
 gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in 
 their coaches and on foot. At the sides 
 of this court, we visited the Palace of 
 Signor Pichini, who has a good collection 
 of antiquities, especially the Adonis of 
 Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel 
 would one* have purchased, if a great 
 price would have been taken for it. 
 
 We went into the Campo Vaccino, by 
 the ruins of the Temple of Peace, built by. 
 Titus Vespasianus, and thought to be the 
 largest as well as the most richly furnished 
 of all the Roman dedicated places : it is 
 now a heap rather than a temple, yet the 
 roof and volto continue firm, showing it 
 to have been formerly of incomparable 
 workmanship. This goodly structure was, 
 none knows how, consumed by fire the 
 night, by all computation, that our blessed 
 Saviour was born. 
 
 1 [Both these statues are now in the Museo 
 Nazionale at Naples.] 
 
 2 [The Toro Farnese was transferred in 1786 to 
 the Museo Nazionale at Naples. Addison mentions 
 this famous group ; but only to remember a passage 
 in Seneca, the tragedian.] 
 
 From hence, we passed by the place 
 into which Curtius precipitated himself for 
 the love of his country, now without any 
 sign of a lake, or vorago. Near this stand 
 some columns of white marble, of exquisite 
 work, supposed to be part of the Temple 
 of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus ; the 
 work of the capitals (being Corinthian) 
 and architrave is excellent, full of sacri- 
 ficing utensils. There are three other of 
 Jupiter Stator. Opposite to these are 
 the oratories, or churches, of St. Cosmo 
 and Damiano, heretofore the Temples of 
 Romulus; a pretty old fabric, with a 
 tribunal, or tholus within, wrought all of 
 Mosaic. The gates before it are brass, 
 and the whole much obliged to Pope 
 Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie 
 the bodies of those two martyrs ; and in 
 a chapel on the right hand is a rare paint- 
 ing of Cavaliere Baglioni. 
 
 We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. 
 The portico is supported by a range of most 
 stately columns ; the inscription cut in the 
 architrave shows it to have been the 
 Temple of Faustina. 1 It is now made a 
 fair church, and has an hospital which 
 joins it. On the same side is St. Adriano, 
 heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before 
 this was once placed a military column, 
 supposed to be set in the centre of the 
 city, from whence they used to compute 
 the distance of all the cities and places of 
 note under the dominion of those universal 
 monarchs. To this church are likewise 
 brazen gates and a noble front ; just 
 opposite we saw the heaps and ruins of 
 Cicero's Palace. Hence we went towards 
 Mons Capitolinus, at the foot of which 
 stands the arch of Septimus Severus, full 
 and entire, save where the pedestal and 
 some of the lower members are choked 
 up with ruins and earth. This arch is 
 exceedingly enriched with sculpture and 
 trophies, with a large inscription. In the 
 terrestrial and naval battles here graven, 
 is seen the Roman Aries [the battering- 
 ram] ; and this was the first triumphal arch 
 set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we 
 climbed by very broad steps, is built about a 
 
 1 [Faustina the elder, the infamous wife of 
 Antoninus Pius. "Poore man!" — comments 
 Lassels — "he could not make [her] an honest 
 woman in her lifetime, and yet he would needs 
 make her a Goddesse after her death" (ii. 134). 
 There is a bust of her in the British Museum.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 65 
 
 square court, at the right hand of which, 
 going up from Campo Vaccino, gushes a 
 plentiful stream from the statue of Tiber, 
 in porphyry, very antique, and another 
 representing Rome ; but, above all, is the 
 admirable figure of Marforius, casting 
 water into a most ample concha. The 
 front of this court is crowned with an 
 excellent fabric containing the Courts of 
 Justice, and where the Criminal Notary 
 sits, and others. In one of the halls they 
 show the statues of Gregory XIII. and 
 Paul III., with several others. To this 
 joins a handsome tower, the whole facciata 
 adorned with noble statues, both on the 
 outside and on the battlements, ascended 
 by a double pair of stairs, and a stately 
 posario. 
 
 In the centre of the court 1 stands that 
 incomparable horse bearing the Emperor 
 Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of 
 Corinthian metal, placed on a pedestal of 
 marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces 
 of work now extant, antique and very rare. 
 There is also a vast head of a colossean 
 magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the 
 wall. At the descending stairs are set two 
 horses of white marble governed by two 
 naked slaves, taken to be Castor and 
 Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. 
 On the balustrade, the trophies of Marius 
 against the Cimbrians, very ancient and 
 instructive. At the foot of the steps 
 towards the left hand is that Colonna 
 Miliaria, with the globe of brass on it, 
 mentioned to have been formerly set in 
 Campo Vaccino. On the same hand is the 
 1 Palace of the Segniori Conservatory or 
 I three Consuls, now the civil governors of 
 the city, containing the fraternities, or 
 halls and guilds (as we call them) of 
 sundry companies, and other offices of 
 state. Under the portico within, are the 
 statues of Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and 
 the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of 
 Duillius, with the excellent basso-rilievos. 
 In a smaller court, the statue of Con- 
 stantine, on a fountain, a Minerva's head 
 of brass, and that of Commodus, to which 
 belongs a hand, the thumb whereof is at 
 least an ell long, and yet proportionable ; 
 but the rest of the coloss is lost. In the 
 corner of this court stand a horse and lion 
 fighting, as big as life, in white marble, 
 
 1 [The Piazza del Campidoglio.] 
 
 exceedingly valued ; likewise the Rape of 
 the Sabines ; two cumbent x figures of 
 Alexander and Mammea ; two monstrous 
 feet of a coloss of Apollo ; the Sepulchre of 
 Agrippina ; and the standard, or antique 
 measure, of the Roman foot. Ascending 
 by the steps of the other corner, are inserted 
 four basso-relievos ; viz. the triumph and 
 sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for 
 the antiquity and rareness of the work, I 
 caused my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, 2 to 
 copy. There are also two statues of the 
 Muses, and one of Adrian, the Emperor : 
 above stands the figure of Marius, and by 
 the wall Marsyas bound to a tree ; all of 
 them excellent and antique. Above in the 
 lobby, are inserted into the walls those 
 ancient laws, on brass, called the Twelve 
 Tables ; a fair Madonna of Pietro Perugino, 
 painted on the wall ; near which are the 
 archives, full of ancient records. 
 
 In the great hall are divers excellent 
 paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d' Arpino, 
 a statue in brass of Sixtus V. and of Leo 
 X. , of marble. In another hall, are many 
 modern statues of their late Consuls and 
 Governors, set about with fine antique 
 heads ; others are painted by excellent 
 masters, representing the actions of M. 
 Scsevola, Horatius Codes, etc. — The room 
 where the Conservatori now feast upon 
 solemn days, is tapestried with crimson 
 damask, embroidered with gold, having a 
 state 3 or baldacchino of crimson velvet,, 
 very rich ; the frieze above rarely painted. 
 Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus; 
 sucking the wolf, of brass, with the 
 Shepherd, Faustulus, by them ; also the 
 boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of 
 brass, so much admired by artists. 4 There 
 are also holy statues and heads of saints. 
 In a gallery near adjoining are the names 
 of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti 
 Romani, so celebrated by the learned : also 
 the figure of an old woman ; two others 
 
 1 [Reclining. Lassels also uses this word.] 
 
 2 [See post, under 14th November, 1644. Three 
 only of the reliefs relate to Marcus Aurelius. That 
 copied for Evelyn represents the " Sacrifice in 
 front of the Capitoline Temple of Jupiter."] 
 
 3 [A canopy of state. See post, under 18th 
 January, 1645, account of the Vatican.] 
 
 4 [The Spinario (Thorn -extractor), or Shepherd 
 Martius, attributed to Boethos of Chalcedon. There 
 are versions in the Vatican, at Florence, and (of a 
 somewhat different character) in the British 
 Museum ] 
 
66 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 representing Poverty ; and more in frag- 
 ments. In another large room, furnished 
 with velvet, are the statue of Adonis, very 
 rare, and divers antique heads. In the 
 next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, 
 one of another Consul, a Hercules in brass, 
 two women's heads of incomparable work, 
 six other statues ; and, over the chimney, 
 a very rare basso-rilievo, and other figures. 
 In a little lobby before the chapel, is 
 the statue of Hannibal, a Bacchus very 
 antique, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with 
 other old heads. — All these noble statues, 
 etc., belong to the city, and cannot be 
 disposed of to any private person, or 
 removed hence, but are preserved for the 
 honour of the place, though great sums 
 have been offered for them by divers 
 Princes, lovers of art and antiquity. We 
 now left the Capitol, certainly one of the 
 most renowned places in the world, even 
 as now built by the design of the famous 
 M. Angelo. 1 
 
 Returning home by Ara Coeli, we 
 mounted to it by more than 1 00 marble 
 steps, not in devotion, as I observed some 
 to do on their bare knees, but to see those 
 two famous statues of Constantine, in white 
 marble, placed there out of his baths. In 
 this church is a Madonna, reported to be 
 painted by St. Luke, and a column, on 
 which we saw the print of a foot, which 
 they affirm to have been that of the Angel, 
 seen on the Castle of St. Angelo. Here 
 the feast of our Blessed Saviour's nativity 
 being yearly celebrated with divers page- 
 ants, they began to make the preparation. 
 Having viewed the Palace and fountain, 
 at the other side of the stairs, we returned 
 weary to our lodgings. 
 
 On the 7th November, we went again 
 near the Capitol, towards the Tarpeian 
 rock, where it has a goodly prospect of 
 the Tiber. Thence, descending by the 
 Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter 
 was imprisoned, they showed us a chapel 
 (S. Pietro in Vincoli) in which a rocky side 
 of it bears the impression of his face. In 
 the nave of the church gushes a fountain, 
 which they say was caused by the Apostle's 
 prayers, when having converted some of 
 his fellow-captives he wanted water to 
 make them Christians. The painting of 
 the Ascension is by Raphael. We then 
 walked about Mount Palatinus and the 
 
 Aventine, and thence to the Circus 
 Maximus, capable of holding 40,000 
 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted 
 into gardens. Then by the Forum 
 Boarium, where they have a tradition that 
 Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his 
 temple remaining. The Temple of Janus 
 Quadrifrons, having four arches, importing 
 the four Seasons, and on each side niches 
 for the months, is still a substantial and 
 pretty entire antiquity. Near to this is 
 the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now 
 towards the Tiber, we went into the 
 Theatre of Marcellus, which would hold 
 80,000 persons, built by Augustus, and 
 dedicated to his nephew ; the architecture, 
 from what remains, appears to be inferior 
 to none. It is now wholly converted into 
 the house of the Savelli, one of the old 
 Roman families. The people were now 
 generally busy in erecting temporary 
 triumphs and arches with statues and 
 flattering inscriptions against his Holiness's 
 grand procession to St. John di Laterano, 
 amongst which the Jews also began one in 
 testimony of gratitude for their protection 
 under the Papal State. The Palazzo 
 Barberini, designed by the present Pope's 
 architect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from 
 the size to be as princely an object as any 
 modern building in Europe. It has a 
 double portico, at the end of which we 
 ascended by two pair of oval stairs, all of 
 stone, and void in the well. One of these 
 led us into a stately hall, the volto whereof 
 was newly painted a fresco, by the rare 
 hand of Pietro Berretini il Cortone. To 
 this is annexed a gallery completely 
 furnished with whatever art can call rare 
 and singular, and a library full of worthy 
 collections, medals, marbles, and manu- 
 scripts ; but, above all, an Egyptian Osyris, 
 remarkable for its unknown material and 
 antiquity. In one of the rooms near this 
 hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the 
 original of Annibale Caracci, of which I 
 procured a copy, little inferior to the 
 prototype ; a table, in my judgment, 
 superior to anything I had seen in Rome. 
 In the court is a vast broken guglia, or 
 obelisk, having divers hieroglyphics cut 
 on it. 
 
 %tk November. We visited the Jesuits' 
 Church, the front whereof is esteemed a 
 noble piece of architecture, the design of 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 67 
 
 Jacomo della Porta and the famous Vignola. 
 In this church lies the body of their 
 renowned Ignatius Loyola, an arm of 
 Xaverius, their other Apostle ; and, at the 
 right end of their high altar, their champion, 
 Cardinal Bellarmin. 1 Here Father Kircher 2 
 (professor of Mathematics and the ori- 
 ental tongues) showed us many singular 
 courtesies, leading us into their refectory, 
 dispensatory, laboratory, gardens, and 
 finally (through a hall hung round with 
 pictures of such of their order as had been 
 executed for their pragmatical 3 and busy 
 adventures) into his own study, 4 where, 
 with Dutch patience, he showed us his 
 perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical 
 experiments, models, and a thousand other 
 crotchets and devices, most of them since 
 published by himself, or his industrious 
 scholar, Schotti. 5 
 
 1 [Cardinal Robert Bellarmin, 1 542-1621.] 
 
 2 Athanasius Kircher was born at Geysen, near 
 Fulda, in Germany, early in 1602. He received 
 his education at Wiirzburg, and entered the 
 Order of Jesuits. He became a good scholar in 
 Oriental literature, and an admirable mathe- 
 matician ; but he directed his attention particularly 
 to the study of hieroglyphics. Father Kircher's 
 works on various abstruse subjects amount to 
 twenty folio volumes, for which he acquired great 
 renown in his day. On Evelyn's visit to Rome, 
 he was considered one of the greatest mathe- 
 maticians and Hebrew scholars of which the 
 metropolis of Christianity — then the headquarters 
 of learning — could boast. He died at Rome in 
 1680 (see post, under 21st August, 1655). 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 63.] 
 
 4 [Twenty years later, Edward Browne was also 
 admitted to this sanctum. " I have seen Kircher," 
 he writes to his father, Sir Thomas, in January, 
 1665, — "who was extremely courteous and civill 
 to us, and his closet of raritys ; the most consider- 
 able, and which I never saw in any other, are his 
 engines for attempting perpetual! motions, and 
 other pretty inventions, which I uriderstande much 
 the better for haveing read Doctor Wilkins' 
 Mechanical 1 Powers. His head that speaks, and 
 which hee calls his Oraculum Delphicum, is no 
 great matter. Hee hath the modell of all the 
 obelisks, and hath invented one himself for the 
 Queen. Ventiducts, aqueducts, and making 
 instruments, are seene neatly performed in so litle 
 a space. A Clepsydra hee hath, pictures of many 
 famous men, and most of those raritys which are 
 seen in other Musaeums" (Browne's Works, by 
 Wilkins, 1836, i. 87).] 
 
 5 Caspar Schott, a native of Wurzburg, where 
 he was born in 1608, who had the advantage of 
 being the favourite pupil of Father Kircher. He 
 taught philosophy and mathematics at Rome and 
 Palermo, and published several curious and erudite 
 works in philosophy and natural history ; but they 
 have long since ceased to possess any authority. 
 He died in 1666. 
 
 Returning home, we had time to view 
 the Palazzo de Medicis, which was an 
 house of the Duke of Florence near our 
 lodging, upon the brow of Mons Pincius, 
 having a fine prospect towards the Campo 
 Marzo. It is a magnificent, strong building, 
 with a substruction very remarkable, and 
 a portico supported with columns towards 
 the gardens, with two huge lions, of marble, 
 at the end of the balustrade. The whole 
 outside of the facciata is incrusted with 
 antique and rare basso-rilievos and statues. 
 Descending into the garden is a noble 
 fountain governed by a Mercury of brass. 
 At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge 
 full of fine statues, amongst which the 
 Sabines, antique and singularly rare. In 
 the arcade near this stand twenty-four 
 statues of great price, and hard by is a 
 mount planted with cypresses, representing 
 a fortress, with a goodly fountain in the 
 middle. Here is also a row balustred with 
 white marble, covered over with the natural 
 shrubs, ivy, and other perennial greens, 
 divers statues and heads being placed as 
 in niches. At a little distance are those 
 famed statues of Niobe and her family, in 
 all fifteen, as large as the life, of which we 
 have ample mention in Pliny, 1 esteemed 
 among the best pieces of work in the 
 world for the passions they express, and all 
 other perfections of that stupendous art. 
 There is likewise in this garden a fair 
 obelisk, full of hieroglyphics. In going 
 out, the fountain before the front casts 
 water near fifty feet in height, when it is 
 received in a most ample marble basin. 
 Here they usually rode the great horse 
 every morning ; which gave me much 
 diversion from the terrace of my own 
 chamber, where I could see all their 
 motions. This evening I was invited to 
 hear rare music at the Chiesa Nuova ; the 
 black marble pillars within led us to that 
 most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, 
 their founder ; they being of the oratory of 
 secular priests, under no vow. There are 
 in it divers good pictures, as the Assump- 
 tion of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix ; 
 the Visitation of Elizabeth ; the Presenta- 
 tion of the Blessed Virgin; " Christo 
 
 1 [Nat. Hist, xxxvi. 28. After passing through 
 various hands, the Niobe statues were acquired in 
 T 775 hy Leopold, Grand Duke of Tuscany, and are 
 now in the Uffizi Palace at Florence.] 
 
68 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 Sepolto," of Guido Keni, Caravaggio, 
 Arpino, and others. This fair church 
 consists of fourteen altars, and as many 
 chapels. In it is buried (besides their 
 Saint) Csesar Baronius, the great annalist. 1 
 Through this, we went into the sacristia. 
 where, the tapers being lighted, one of the 
 Order preached ; after him stepped up a 
 child of eight or nine years old, who pro- 
 nounced an oration with so much grace, 
 that I never was better pleased than to 
 hear Italian so well and so intelligently 
 spoken. This course it seems they fre- 
 quently use, to bring their scholars to a 
 habit of speaking distinctly, and forming 
 their action and assurance, which none so 
 much want as ours in England. This 
 being finished, began their motettos, which, 
 in a lofty cupola richly painted, were sung 
 by eunuchs, and other rare voices, ac- 
 companied by theorbos, harpsichords, and 
 viols, so that we were even ravished with 
 the entertainment of the evening. This 
 room is painted by Cortona, and has in it 
 two figures in the niches, and the church 
 stands in one of the most stately streets of 
 Rome. 
 
 10th November. We went to see Prince 
 Ludovisi's villa, 2 where was formerly the 
 Viridarium of the poet Sallust. The 
 house is very magnificent, and the extent 
 of the ground exceedingly large, consider- 
 ing that it is in a city ; in every quarter of 
 the garden are antique statues, and walks 
 planted with cypress. To this garden 
 belongs a house of retirement, built in the 
 figure of a cross, after a particular ordo?i- 
 ?iance> especially the staircase. The white- 
 ness and smoothness of the excellent 
 pargeting was a thing I much observed, 
 being almost as even and polished as 
 if it had been of marble. Above, is a 
 fair prospect of the city. In one of the 
 chambers hang two famous pieces of 
 Bassano, the one a Vulcan, the other a 
 Nativity ; there is a German clock full of 
 rare and extraordinary motions ; and in 
 a little room below are many precious 
 marbles, columns, urns, vases, and noble 
 statues of porphyry, oriental alabaster, 
 
 1 [Cardinal Caesar Baronius, 1 538-1607. His 
 "incomparable Ecclesiastical History" is often 
 quoted by Lassels. He was a priest of this house.] 
 
 2 [The remains of the Villa of Sallust were blown 
 up in 1884-1885 ; and the Villa Ludovisi has now 
 been pulled down for building purposes.] 
 
 and other rare materials. About this 
 fabric is an ample area, environed with 
 sixteen vast jars of red earth, wherein 
 the Romans used to preserve their oil, or 
 wine rather, which they buried, and such 
 as are properly called testes. In the Palace 
 I must never forget the famous statue of 
 the Gladiator, 1 spoken of by Pliny, so 
 much followed by all the rare artists as the 
 many copies testify,dispersed through almost 
 all Europe, both in stone and metal. There 
 is also a Hercules, a head of porphyry, and 
 one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa- 
 house is a man's body flesh and all, 
 petrified, and even converted to marble, as 
 it was found in the Alps, and sent by the 
 Emperor to one of the Popes ; it lay in a 
 chest, or coffin, lined with black velvet, 
 and one of the arms being broken, you may 
 see the perfect bone from the flesh which 
 remains entire. The Rape of Proserpine 
 in marble, is of the purest white, the work 
 of Bernini. In the cabinet near it are 
 innumerable small brass figures, and other 
 curiosities. But what some look upon as 
 exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bed- 
 stead (which sort of gross furniture the 
 Italians much glory in, as formerly did our 
 grandfathers in England in their inlaid 
 wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of 
 precious stones and antique heads, onyxes, 
 agates, and cornelians, esteemed to be 
 worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. Here are 
 also divers cabinets and tables of the 
 Florence work, besides pictures in the 
 gallery, especially the Apollo — a conceited 
 chair 2 to sleep in with the legs stretched 
 out with hooks, and pieces of wood to 
 draw out longer or shorter. 
 
 From this villa, we went to see Signor 
 Angeloni's study, who very courteously 
 showed us such a collection of rare medals 
 as is hardly to be paralleled ; divers good 
 pictures, and many outlandish and Indian 
 curiosities, and things of nature. 
 
 From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, 
 heretofore called Mons Quirinalis, where we 
 saw those two rare horses, the work of the 
 rivals Phidias and Praxiteles, 3 as they were 
 
 1 [This, now more accurately described as "The 
 Dying Gaul," has passed to the. Capitol.] 
 
 2 ["Conceited " here = ingenious.] 
 
 3 [Keysler, who does not attribute them to the 
 sculptors named, gives a translation of an inscrip- 
 tion on the pedestal : — " These colossal statues 
 were brought from the neighbouring baths of 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 69 
 
 sent to Nero [by Tiridates King] out of 
 Armenia. They were placed on pedestals 
 of white marble by Sixtus V., by whom I 
 suppose their injuries were repaired, and 
 are governed by four [?] naked slaves, like 
 those at the foot of the Capitol. Here 
 runs a most noble fountain, regarding 
 four of the most stately streets for 
 building and beauty to be seen in any city 
 of Europe. Opposite to these statues is 
 the Pope's summer palace, 1 built by 
 Gregory XIII. ; 2 and, in my opinion, it 
 is, for largeness and the architecture, one 
 of the most conspicuous in Rome, having 
 a stately portico which leads round the 
 court under columns, in the centre of which 
 there runs a beautiful fountain. The 
 chapel is incrusted with such precious 
 materials that nothing can be more rich, 
 or glorious, nor are the other ornaments 
 and movables about it at all inferior. The 
 Hall is painted by Lanfranco, and others. 
 The garden, which is called the Belvedere 
 di Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of 
 the Vatican, is most excellent for air and 
 prospect ; its exquisite fountains, close 
 walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, 
 planted about with venerable cypresses, 
 and refreshed with water music, aviaries, 
 and other rarities. 
 
 I2.th November. We saw Diocletian's 
 Baths, whose ruins testify the vastness of 
 the original foundation and magnificence : 
 by what M. Angelo took from the orna- 
 ments about it, 'tis slid he restored the 
 then almost lost art of architecture. This 
 
 Constantine (the damages they had suffered by 
 time being repaired, and the ancient inscriptions 
 replaced) and erected in this Quirinal area by order 
 of pope Sixtus V. in the year of Christ 1589, and 
 the fourth of his pontificate " (ii. 307). They are 
 now known as Castor and Pollux. Their position 
 was changed by Pius VI. Clough has hexa- 
 metrised them as follows in Canto i. of the Amours 
 de Voyage : — 
 Ye, too, marvellous Twain, that erect on the Monte 
 
 Cavallo 
 Stand by your rearing steeds, in the grace of your 
 
 motionless movement, 
 Stand with upstretched arms and tranquil re- 
 gardant faces, 
 Stand as instinct with life in the might of immut- 
 able manhood, 
 O ye mighty and strange, ye ancient divine ones of 
 Hellas.] 
 
 1 [Now the Royal Palace, where Victor Em- 
 manuel II. died, January 9, 1878.] 
 
 2 [It was begun by Gregory XIII. in 1574, but 
 was continued and enlarged by his successors.] 
 
 monstrous pile was built by the labour of 
 the primitive Christians, then under one of 
 the ten great persecutions. 1 The Church 
 of St. Bernardo is made out of one only of 
 these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form 
 of an urn with a cover. 
 
 Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle 
 Terme, otherwise called Fons Felix ; in it 
 is a basso-relievo of white marble, repre- 
 senting Moses striking the rock, which is 
 adorned with camels, men, women, and 
 children drinking, as large as life ; a work 
 for the design and vastness truly magnifi- 
 cent. The water is conveyed no less than 
 twenty-two miles in an aqueduct by Sixtus 
 V. , ex agro Columna, by way of Prseneste, 
 as the inscription testifies. It gushes into 
 three ample lavers raised about with stone, 
 before which are placed two lions of a 
 strange black stone, very rare and antique. 
 Near this are the store-houses for the city's 
 corn, and over-against it the Church of St. 
 vSusanna, where were the gardens of Sallust. 
 The facciata of this church is noble, the 
 sojjita within gilded and full of pictures ; 
 especially famous is that of Susanna, by 
 Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the 
 high altar is of exquisite work, from whose 
 marble steps you descend under -ground 
 to the repository of divers Saints. The 
 picture over this altar is the work of 
 Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is for 
 Bernardine Nuns. 
 
 Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us 
 with the most ravishing front. In this 
 church was sung the Te Deum by Gregory 
 XV., after the signal victory of the 
 Emperor at Prague ; the standards then 
 taken still hang up, and the impress 2 
 waving this motto over the Pope's arms, 
 Extirpentur. I observed that the high 
 altar was much frequented for an image of 
 the Virgin. It has some rare statues, as 
 Paul ravished into the third heaven, by 
 Fiamingo, and some good pictures. From 
 this, we bend towards Diocletian's Baths, 
 never satisfied with contemplating that 
 immense pile, in building which 150,000 
 Christians were destined to labour fourteen 
 
 1 [" It is stated by Cardinal Baronius [see ante, 
 p. 68] that 40,000 Christians were employed in the 
 work ; some bricks marked with crosses have 
 occurred in the ruins " (Hare's Walks in Rome, by 
 St. Clair Baddeley, 1905, p. 355).] 
 
 2 [Device, — Italian, fmpresa.] 
 
7o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 years, and were then all murdered. 1 Here 
 is a monastery of Carthusians, called Santa 
 Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of 
 M. Angeo, and the cloister encompassing 
 walls in an ample garden. 
 
 Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately 
 gate of stone built on the Viminalis, and is 
 no other than a spacious park full of foun- 
 tains, especially that which salutes us at 
 the front ; stews for fish ; the cypress 
 walks are so beset with statues, inscrip- 
 tions, rilievos, and other ancient marbles, 
 that nothing can be more stately and 
 solemn. The citron trees are uncommonly 
 large. In the Palace joining to it are in- 
 numerable collections of value. Return- 
 ing, we stepped into St. Agnes church, 
 where there is a tribunal of antique mosaic, 
 and on the altar a most rich ciborio of 
 brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in 
 oriental alabaster. The church of Santa 
 Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they 
 showed us a stone ship borne on a column 
 heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as the rilievo 
 intimates by the drunken emblems and 
 instruments wrought upon it. The altar is 
 of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking 
 back, we had the entire view of the Via 
 Pia down to the two horses before the 
 Monte Cavallo,- before mentioned, one 
 of the most glorious sights for state 
 and magnificence that any city can 
 show a traveller. We returned by Porta 
 Pia, and the Via Salaria, near Campo 
 Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the 
 wanton Vestals were heretofore immured 
 alive. 3 
 
 Thence to Via Felix, a straight and 
 noble street, but very precipitous, till we 
 came to the four fountains of Lepidus, 
 built at the abutments of four stately ways, 
 making an exact cross of right angles ; 
 and, at the fountains, are as many cum- 
 bent 4 figures of marble, under very large 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 69 «.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 69.] 
 
 3 [" When condemned by the college of ponti- 
 fices, she [the vestal] was stripped of her vittae and 
 other badges of office, was scourged (Dionys. ix. 
 40), was attired like a corpse, placed in a close 
 litter and borne through the forum attended by her 
 weeping kindred, with all the ceremonies of a real 
 funeral ... to the Campus Sceleratus. ... In 
 every case the paramour was publicly scourged 
 to death in the forum " (Smith's Dictionary 0/ 
 Antiquities, 1891, ii. 942).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 65. ] 
 
 niches of stone, the water pouring into 
 huge basins. The church of St. Carlo is a 
 singular fabric for neatness, of an oval 
 design, built of a new white stone ; the 
 columns are worth notice. Under it is 
 another church of a structure nothing less 
 admirable. 
 
 Next, we came to Santa Maria Mag- 
 giore, 1 built upon the Esquiline Mountain, 
 which gives it a most conspicuous face to 
 the street at a great distance. The design 
 is mixed, partly antique, partly modern. 
 Here they affirm that the Blessed Virgin 
 appearing, showed where it should be 
 built 300 years since. The first pavement 
 is rare and antique ; so is the portico built 
 by P. P. Eugenius II. The ciborio is the 
 work of Paris Roman*, and the tribunal of 
 mosaic. 
 
 We were showed in the church a concha 
 of porphyry, wherein they say Patricius, 
 the founder, lies. This is one of the most 
 famous of the seven Roman Churches, and 
 is, in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, 
 the most magnificent. Above all, for 
 incomparable glory and materials, are the 
 two chapels of Sixtus V. and Paulus V. 
 That of Sixtus was designed by Dom. 
 Fontana, in which are two rare great 
 statues, and some good pieces of painting ; 
 and here they pretended to show some of 
 the Holy Innocents' bodies slain by Herod : 
 as also that renowned tabernacle of metal, 
 gilt, sustained by four angels, holding as 
 many tapers, placed* on the altar. In this 
 chapel is the statue of Sixtus, in copper, 
 with basso-rilievos of most of his famous 
 acts, in Parian marble ; but that of P. 
 Paulus, which we next entered, opposite 
 to this, is beyond all imagination glorious, 
 and above description. It is so encircled 
 with agates, and other most precious 
 materials, as to dazzle and confound the 
 beholders. The basso-rilievos are for the 
 most part of pure snowy marble, inter- 
 mixed with figures of molten brass, double 
 gilt, on lapis lazuli. The altar is a most 
 stupendous piece ; but most incomparable 
 is the cupola painted by Guido Reni, and 
 the present Baglioni, full of exquisite 
 sculptures. There is a most sumptuous 
 sacristia ; and the piece over the altar was 
 by the hand of St. Luke ; if you will 
 
 1 [There is a description of S. Maria Maggiore 
 in folio, 162 1, by Paulus de Angelis.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 71 
 
 believe it. 1 Paulus V. hath here likewise 
 built two other altars ; under the one lie 
 the bones of the Apostle, St. Matthias. In 
 another oratory, is the statue of this Pope, 
 and the head of the Congo Ambassador, 
 who was converted at Rome, and died 
 here. In a third chapel, designed by 
 Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of Platina, 
 and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., 
 Nicephorus IV., the ashes of St. Hierom, 
 and many others. In that of Sixtus V. , 
 before mentioned, was showed us part of 
 the crib in which Christ was swaddled at 
 Bethlehem ; there is also the statue of 
 Pius V. ; and going out at the further end, 
 is the Resurrection of Lazarus, by a very 
 rare hand. In the portico, is this late 
 inscription : " Cardinali Antonio Barberino 
 Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam 
 Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, laborante 
 sub Tyrannis ecclesia, ut esset loci sanctitate 
 venerabilior, Francis Gualdus Arm. Eques 
 S. Stephani e suis sedibus hue transtulit et 
 ornavit, 1632." Just before this portico, 
 stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian 
 column, of white marble, translated hither 
 for an ornament from the old Temple of 
 Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the 
 plinth of the capital the image of our Lady, 
 gilt on metal ; at the pedestal runs a 
 fountain. Going down the hill, we saw 
 the obelisk taken from the Mausoleum of 
 Augustus, and erected in this place by 
 Domenico Fontana, with this epigraph : 
 " Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex 
 Egypto advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo 
 dicatum, eversum, deinde et in plures con- 
 fractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum 
 jacentem, in pristinam faciem restitutum 
 Salutiferse Cruci felicius hie erigi jussit, 
 anno MDLXXXVlli, Pont. III." : — and so 
 we came weary to our lodgings. 
 
 At the foot of this hill, is the Church of 
 St. Pudentiana, 2 in which is a well, filled 
 with the blood and bones of several martyrs, 
 but grated over with iron, and visited by 
 
 1 [" In the center ... is the picture of the 
 Virgin Mary, with Jesus sitting on one of her 
 arms, said to be painted by St. Luke, in a frame 
 of lapis lazuli ; and over her head hangs a crown 
 of gold enriched with jewels " (Keysler's Travels, 
 1760, ii. p. 221).] 
 
 2 [Keysler says this church contains "a fine piece 
 by Rosetti, which was designed by Zuccaro, repre- 
 senting St. Pudentiana gathering up the blood, 
 heads, and bones of the martyred Christians " (11. 
 306).] 
 
 many devotees. Near this stands the 
 church of her sister, St. Prassede, 1 much 
 frequented for the same reason. In a little 
 obscure place, cancelled in with iron work, 
 is the pillar, or stump, at which they relate 
 our Blessed Saviour was scourged, being 
 full of bloody spots, at which the devout 
 sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and 
 convey their kisses by a stick having a 
 tassel on it. Here, besides a noble statue 
 of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous 
 Cardinal Cajetan, an excellent piece : and 
 here they hold that St. Peter said his first 
 mass at Rome, with the same altar and the 
 stone he kneeled on, he having been first 
 lodged in this house, as they compute about 
 the forty -fourth year of the Incarnation. 
 They also show many relics, or rather rags, 
 of his mantle. St. Laurence in Panisperna 
 did next invite us, where that martyr was 
 cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet 
 remaining. 2 St. Bridget is buried in this 
 church under a stately monument. In the 
 front of the pile is the suffering of St. 
 Laurence painted a fresco on the wall. 
 The fabric is nothing but Gothic. On the 
 left is the Therma Novatii ; and, on the 
 right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. 
 
 14th November. We passed again through 
 the stately Capitol and Campo Vaccino 
 towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, 
 but first stayed to look at Titus's Triumphal 
 Arch, erected by the people of Rome, in 
 honour of his victory at Jerusalem ; on the 
 left hand whereof he is represented drawn 
 in a chariot with four horses abreast ; on 
 the right hand, or side of the arch within, 
 is sculptured in figures, or basso-rilievo as 
 big as the life (and in one entire marble) 
 the Ark of the Covenant, on which stands 
 the seven - branched candlestick described 
 in Leviticus, as also the two Tables of the 
 Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the 
 bars, as they are described in some of St. 
 
 1 [This St. Prassede's or Praxed's is the church 
 where Browning's Bishop is supposed to order the 
 splendid tomb which is to outdo his old rival, 
 Gandolf. Prassede and Pudentiana were daughters 
 of the Roman senator Pudens (with whom St. Paul 
 lodged, a.d. 41 to 50), and lived in the reign of 
 Antoninus Pius. "The Bishop's tomb "—writes 
 Mrs. Sutherland Orr — "is entirely fictitious; but 
 something which is made to stand for it is shown 
 to credulous sightseers in St. Praxed's Church " 
 {Handbook to Browning's Works ; 1885, p. 241).] 
 
 2 [According to Hare's Walks in Rome, by St. 
 Clair Baddeley, 1905, p. 325, St. Laurence's gridiron 
 and chains are shown at S. Lorenzo in Lucina.] 
 
72 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 Hierom's bibles ; before this, go many 
 crowned and laureated figures, and twelve 
 Roman fasces, with other sacred vessels. 
 This much confirmed the idea I before 
 had ; and therefore, for the light it gave to 
 the Holy History, I caused my painter, 
 Carlo, 1 to copy it exactly. The rest of the 
 work of the Arch is of the noblest, best 
 understood composita • and the inscription 
 is this, in capital letters ; 
 
 s. P. Q. R. 
 
 D. TITO, D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI 
 
 AVGVSTO. 
 
 Santa Maria Nuova is on the place where 
 they told us Simon Magus fell out of the 
 air at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himself 
 to pieces on a flint. Near this is a marble 
 monument, erected by the people of Rome 
 in memory of the Pope's return from 
 Avignon. 
 
 Being now passed the ruins of Meta- 
 Sudante (which stood before the Colosseum, 
 so called, because there once stood here 
 the statue of Commodus provided to refresh 
 the gladiators 2 ), we enter the mighty ruins 
 of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, begun by 
 Vespasian, and finished by that excellent 
 prince, Titus. It is 830 Roman palms in 
 length [i.e. 130 paces), 90 in breadth at 
 the area, with caves for the wild beasts 
 which used to be baited by men instead of 
 dogs ; the whole oval periphery 2888 f 
 palms, and capable of containing 87,000 
 spectators with ease and all accommoda- 
 tion : the three rows of circles are yet 
 entire ; the first was for the senators, the 
 middle for the nobility, the third for the 
 people. At the dedication of this place 
 were 5000 wild beasts slain in three months 
 during which the feast lasted, to the expense 
 of ten millions of gold. It was built of 
 Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the five 
 orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive 
 Jews. It is without, of a perfect circle, 
 and was once adorned thick with statues, 
 and remained entire, till of late that some 
 of the stones were carried away to repair 
 the city walls and build the Farnesian 
 Palace. That which still appears most 
 admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, 
 vaults, and stairs, with the excessive alti- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 65.] 
 
 2 [Lassels calls the statue on the fountain "a 
 Statue of Jupiter o/brasse " (ii. 123).] 
 
 tude, which well deserves this distich of 
 the poet : * 
 
 Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatro ; 
 Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus. 
 
 Near it is a small chapel called Santa 
 Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, which is 
 erected on the steps, or stages, very lofty 
 at one of its sides, or ranges, within, and 
 where there lives only a melancholy hermit. 
 I ascended to the very top of it with 
 wonderful admiration. 
 
 The Arch of Constantine the Great is 
 close by the Meta-Sudante, before men- 
 tioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia, 
 on one side Monte Celio, and is perfectly 
 entire, erected by the people in memory of 
 his victory over Maxentius, at the Pons 
 Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the front is 
 this inscription : 
 
 IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO 
 
 P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. 
 
 QVOD INSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS 
 
 MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO 
 
 TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS 
 
 FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS. 
 
 REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS 
 
 ARCVM TRIVMPHIS 1NSIGNEM DICAVIT. 
 
 Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in 
 Monte Celio, where are many privileged 
 altars, and there they showed us an arm 
 of that saint, and other relics. Before this 
 church stands a very noble portico. 
 
 15M November. Was very wet, and I 
 stirred not out, and the 16th I went to visit 
 Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines. 
 
 I'jth. I walked to Villa Borghese, a 
 house and ample garden on Mons Pincius, 
 yet somewhat without the city walls, cir- 
 cumscribed by another wall full of small 
 turrets and banqueting - houses ; which 
 makes it appear at a distance like a little 
 town. Within it is an elysium of delight, 
 having in the centre of it a noble palace ; 
 but the entrance of the garden presents us 
 with a very glorious fabric, or rather door- 
 case, adorned with divers excellent marble 
 statues. This garden abounded with all 
 sorts of delicious fruit and exotic simples, 
 fountains of sundry inventions, groves, and 
 small rivulets. There is also adjoining to 
 it a vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, 
 cranes, etc., and divers strange beasts, 
 
 l [Martial, De Sped., Ep. i. 11. 7-8.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 73 
 
 deer, and hares. The grotto is very rare, 
 and represents, among other devices, arti- 
 ficial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, 
 flowers, etc. ; which is effected by changing 
 the heads of the fountains. The groves are 
 of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and olive. 
 The four sphinxes are very antique, and 
 worthy observation. To this is a volary, 
 full of curious birds. The house is square 
 with turrets, from which the prospect is 
 excellent towards Rome, and the environ- 
 ing hills, covered as they now are with 
 snow, which indeed commonly continues 
 even a great part of the summer, affording 
 sweet refreshment. Round the house is a 
 baluster of white marble, with frequent 
 jettos of water, and adorned with a multi- 
 tude of statues. The walls of the house 
 are covered with antique incrustations of 
 history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of 
 Europa, Leda, etc. The cornices above 
 consist of fruitages and festoons, between 
 which are niches furnished with statues, 
 which order is observed to the very roof. 
 In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good 
 statues of Consuls, etc., with two pieces of 
 field-artillery upon carriages (a mode much 
 practised in Italy before the great men's 
 houses), which they look on as a piece of 
 state more than defence. In the first hall 
 within, are the twelve Roman Emperors, 
 of excellent marble ; betwixt them stand 
 porphyry columns, and other precious 
 stones of vast height and magnitude, with 
 urns of oriental alabaster. Tables oipietra- 
 commessa : and here is that renowned Diana 
 which Pompey worshipped, of eastern 
 marble : the most incomparable Seneca of 
 touch, 1 bleeding in a huge vase of porphyry, 
 resembling the drops of his blood ; the so 
 famous Gladiator, 2 and the Hermaphrodite 
 upon a quilt of stone. The new piece of 
 Daphne, and David, of Cavaliero Bernini, 3 
 is observable for the pure whiteness of the 
 stone, and the art of the statuary plainly 
 
 1 [Touchstone or basanite (Lydius lapis). "Its 
 of a black stone like Ieat" — says Lassels of the 
 statue— "then which nothing can be blacker but 
 the crimes of Nero the Magistricide, who put this 
 rare man his master to death " (ii. 172).] 
 
 2 [This is the so-called Borghese Gladiator of 
 Agasias, the Ephesian. It has been in the Louvre 
 since 1808.] 
 
 3 [Daphne changed into* a Laurel from Ovid, and 
 David with the Sling, — the former executed in 
 1616, the latter when Bernini was in his eighteenth 
 year.] 
 
 stupendous. There is a multitude of rare 
 pictures of infinite value, by the best 
 masters ; huge tables of porphyry, and two 
 exquisitely wrought vases of the same. In 
 another chamber, are divers sorts of instru- 
 ments of music ; amongst other toys that 
 of a satyr, which so artificially expressed a 
 human voice, with the motion of eyes and 
 head, that it might easily affright one who 
 was not prepared for that most extravagant 
 sight. They showed us also a chair that 
 catches fast any who sits down in it, so as 
 not to be able to stir out, by certain springs 
 concealed in the arms and back thereof, 
 which at sitting down surprises a man on 
 the sudden, locking him in by the arms 
 and thighs, after a true treacherous Italian 
 guise. The perspective is also considerable, 
 composed by the position of looking-glasses, 
 which render a strange multiplication of 
 things resembling divers most richly fur- 
 nished rooms. Here stands a rare clock 
 of German work ; in a word, nothing but 
 what is magnificent is to be seen in this 
 Paradise. 
 
 The next day, I went to the Vatican, 
 where, in the morning, I saw the ceremony 
 of Pamfilio, the Pope's nephew, receiving 
 a Cardinal's hat ; this was the first time I 
 had seen his Holiness in pontificalibus. 
 After the Cardinals and Princes had met in 
 the consistory, the ceremony was in the 
 Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar 
 invested with most pompous rites. 
 
 19M November. I visited St. Peter's, that 
 most stupendous and incomparable Basilica, 
 far surpassing any now extant in the world, 
 and perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, 
 any that was ever built. The largeness of 
 the piazza before the portico is worth 
 observing, because it affords a noble pros- 
 pect of the church, not crowded up, as for 
 the most part is the case in other places 
 where great churches are erected. In this 
 is a fountain, out of which gushes a river 
 rather than a stream which, ascending a 
 good height, breaks upon a round emboss 
 of marble into millions of pearls that fall 
 into the subjacent basins with great noise ; 
 I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains 
 I ever saw. 1 
 
 1 [Lassels (ii. p. 28) adds a detail. It " throweth 
 up such a quantity of water, that it maketh a mist 
 alwayes about it, and oftentimes a rainbow., — when 
 the Sun strikes obliquely upon it."] 
 
74 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 Next is the obelisk transported out of 
 Egypt, and dedicated by Octavius Augustus 
 to Julius Cassar, whose ashes it formerly 
 bore on the summit ; but, being since 
 overturned by the barbarians, was re- 
 erected with vast cost and a most stupen- 
 dous invention by Domenico Fontana, 1 
 architect to Sixtus V. The obelisk con- 
 sists of one entire square stone without 
 hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two feet, 
 but comprehending the base and all it is 
 108 feet high, and rests on four Lions of 
 gilded copper, so as you may see through 
 the base of the obelisk and plinth of the 
 pedestal. 
 
 Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven 
 
 DIVO CAES. DIVI 
 IVLII F. AVGVSTO 
 TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. 
 F. AVGVS. SACRVM. 
 
 It now bears on the top a cross in which 
 it is said that Sixtus V. inclosed some of 
 the holy wood ; and under it is to be read 
 by good eyes : 
 
 SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI 
 
 SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 CONSECRAVIT. 
 
 E. PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM 
 
 ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. 
 
 1. L. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI. 
 
 On the four faces of the base below : 
 
 I. CHRISTVS VINCIT. 
 
 CHRISTVS REGNAT. 
 
 CHRISTVS IMPERAT. 
 
 CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO 
 
 PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. 
 
 2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM 
 
 IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM 
 
 AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA 
 
 OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT 
 
 AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI 
 
 FVGITE PARTES 
 
 ADVERSAE 
 
 VINCIT LEO 
 
 DE TRIBV IVDA. 
 
 1 [Domenico Fontana, 1 543-1607. In 1590, he 
 gave a folio account (with his portrait) of the 
 erection of this monument, entitled Delia trans- 
 portations delt Obelisco Vaticano, etc., Roma.] 
 
 4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 CRVCI INVICTAE 
 
 OBELISVCM VATICANVM 
 
 AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE 
 
 EXPIATVM IVSTIVS 
 
 ET FELICITVS CONSECRAVIT 
 
 AN. M.D.L. XXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 A little lower : 
 
 DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI 
 NOVOCOMENSIS TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. 
 
 It is reported to have taken a year in 
 erecting, to have cost 37,975 crowns, the 
 labour of 907 men, and 75 horses : this 
 being the first of the four Egyptian obelisks 
 set up at Rome, and one of the forty-two 
 brought to the city out of Egypt, set up in 
 several places, but thrown down by the 
 Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes. 1 
 Some coaches stood before the steps of the 
 ascent, whereof one, belonging to Cardinal 
 Medici, had all the metal work of massy 
 silver, viz. the bow behind and other places. 
 The coaches at Rome, as well as covered 
 waggons also much in use, are generally 
 the richest and largest I ever saw. Before 
 the facciata of the church is an ample 
 pavement. The church was first begun 
 by St. Anacletus, when rather a chapel, 
 on a foundation, as they give out, of Con- 
 stantine the Great, who, in honour of the 
 Apostles, carried twelve baskets full of 
 sand to the work. After him, Julius II. 
 took it in hand, to which all his successors 
 have contributed more or less. 
 
 The front is supposed to be the largest 
 and best-studied piece of architecture in 
 the world ; to this we went up by four 
 steps of marble. The first entrance is 
 supported by huge pilasters ; the volto 
 within is the richest possible, and overlaid 
 with gold. Between the five large anti- 
 ports are columns of enormous height and 
 compass, with as many gates of brass, the 
 work and sculpture of Pollajuolo, the 
 Florentine, full of cast figures and histories 
 in deep rilievo. Over this runs a terrace 
 of like amplitude and ornament, where 
 the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his 
 benediction on the vulgar. On each side 
 of this portico are two campaniles, or 
 
 1 [Lassels adds (ii. p. 28) :— " The whole Guglia 
 [obelisk] is sayd to weigh 956,148 pound weight. 
 I wonder what scales they had to weigh it with."] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 75 
 
 towers, whereof there was but one per- 
 fected, of admirable art. On the top of 
 all, runs a balustrade which edges it quite 
 round, and upon this at equal distances 
 are Christ and the twelve Disciples, of 
 gigantic size and stature, yet below show- 
 ing no greater than the life. Entering the 
 church, admirable is the breadth of the 
 volto, or roof, which is all carved with 
 foliage and roses overlaid with gold in 
 nature of a deep basso-rilievo, a V antique. 
 The nave, or body, is in form of a cross, 
 whereof the foot-part is the longest ; and, 
 at the internodium of the transept, rises 
 the cupola, which being all of stone and 
 of prodigious height is more in compass 
 than that of the Pantheon (which was the 
 largest amongst the old Romans, and is 
 yet entire) or any other known. The 
 inside, or concave, is covered with most 
 exquisite mosaic, representing the Celestial 
 Hierarchy, by Giuseppe d' Arpino, full of 
 stars of gold ; the convex, or outside, 
 exposed to the air, is covered with lead, 
 with great ribs of metal double gilt (as are 
 also the ten other lesser cupolas, for no 
 fewer adorn this glorious structure), which 
 gives a great and admirable splendour in 
 all parts of the city. On the summit of 
 this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable 
 of receiving thirty-five persons. 1 This I 
 entered, and engraved my name amongst 
 other travellers. Lastly, is the Cross, the 
 access to which is between the leaden 
 covering and the stone convex, or arch- 
 work ; a most truly astonishing piece of 
 art ! On the battlements of the church, 
 also all overlaid with lead and marble, 
 you would imagine yourself in a town, so 
 many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, 
 juttings, and not a few houses inhabited 
 by men who dwell there, and have enough 
 to do to look after the vast reparations 
 which continually employ them. 
 
 Having seen this we descended into the 
 body of the church, full of collateral 
 chapels and large oratories, most of them 
 exceeding the size of ordinary churches ; 
 but the principal are four incrusted with 
 most precious marbles and stones of various 
 colours, adorned with an infinity of statues, 
 pictures, stately altars, and innumerable 
 
 1 [Lassels (ii. p. 46) says thirty. "We were 
 eight in it at once ; and I am sure we could have 
 placed thrice as many more."] 
 
 relics. The altar-piece of St. Michael 
 being of mosaic, I could not pass .with- 
 out particular note, as one of the best of 
 that kind. The chapel of Gregory XIII., 
 where he is buried, is most splendid. 
 Under the cupola, and in the centre of 
 the church, stands the high altar, con- 
 secrated first by Clement VIII. , adorned 
 by Paul V., and lately covered by Pope 
 Urban VIII. ; with that stupendous canopy 
 of Corinthian brass, which heretofore was 
 brought from the Pantheon ; it consists of 
 four wreathed columns, partly channelled 
 and encircled with vines, on which hang 
 little putti, birds and bees (the arms of the 
 Barberini), sustaining a baldacchino of the 
 same metal. The four columns weigh an 
 hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over 
 richly gilt ; this, with the pedestals, crown, 
 and statues about it, forms a thing of that 
 art, vastness, and magnificence, as is 
 beyond all that man's industry has pro- 
 duced of the kind ; it is the work of 
 Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, 
 painter, and poet, 1 who, a little before my 
 coming to the city, gave a public opera 
 (for so they call shows of that kind), 
 wherein he painted the scenes, cut the 
 statues, invented the engines, composed 
 the music, writ the comedy, and built the 
 theatre. Opposite to either of these pillars, 
 under those niches which, with their 
 columns, support the weighty cupola, are 
 placed four exquisite statues of Parian 
 marble, to which are four altars ; that of 
 St. Veronica, made by Fra. Mochi, has 
 over it the reliquary, where they showed 
 us the miraculous Sudarium indued with 
 the picture of our Saviour's face, with 
 this inscription : " Salvatoris imaginem 
 Veronicse Sudario exceptam ut loci majestas 
 decenter custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. 
 Max. Marmoreum signum et Altare addidit, 
 Conditorium extruxit et ornavit." 2 
 
 Right against this is that of Longinus, 
 of a colossean magnitude, also by Bernini, 
 and over him the conservatory of the iron 
 lance inserted in a most precious crystal, 
 
 1 [Giovanni Lorenzo Bernini, 1 598-1 680. For 
 this work Bernini received from Urban VIII. 
 (Cardinal Maffeo Barberini) jo,ooo scudi, a pension, 
 and two livings for his brothers. ] 
 
 2 [More briefly described by Lassels (ii. p. 33) 
 as "the Volto Sacro, or print of our Saviour's 
 
 face, which he imprinted in the handkercher of 
 S. Veronica "\ 
 
76 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [ib44 
 
 with this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam 
 quam. Innocentius VIII. a Bajazete 
 Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. 
 statua apposita, et Sacello substructo, in 
 exornatum Conditorium transtulit" 
 
 The third chapel has over the altar the 
 statue of our countrywoman, St. Helena, 
 the mother of Constantine the Great ; the 
 work of Boggi, an excellent sculptor ; and 
 here is preserved a great piece of the 
 pretended wood of the holy cross which 
 she is said to have first detected miracu- 
 lously in the Holy Land. It was placed 
 here by the late Pope with this inscription : 
 " Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix 
 e Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus 
 VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissoriana Basilica 
 desumptam, additis ara et statua, hie in 
 Vaticano collocavit." 
 
 The fourth hath over the altar, and 
 opposite to that of St. Veronica, the 
 statue of St. Andrew, the work of Fiam- 
 ingo, admirable above all the other ; above 
 is preserved the head of that Apostle, 
 richly enchased. It is said that this 
 excellent sculptor died mad to see his 
 statue placed in a disadvantageous light 
 by Bernini, the chief architect, who found 
 himself outdone by this artist. The in- 
 scription over it is this ; 
 
 St. Andreae caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia 
 in Vaticanum asportandum curavit, Urbanus 
 VIII. novis hie ornamentis decoratum, 
 sacrisq' statuae ac Sacelli honoribus coli 
 voluit. 
 
 The relics showed and kept in this 
 church are without number, as are also 
 the precious vessels of gold, silver, and 
 gems, with the vests and services to be 
 seen in the Sacristy, which they showed 
 us. Under the high altar is an ample grot 
 inlaid with pietra-commessa, wherein half 
 of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul 
 are preserved ; before hang divers great 
 lamps of the richest plate, burning con- 
 tinually. About this and contiguous to 
 the altar, runs a balustrade, in form of a 
 theatre, of black marble. Towards the 
 left, as you go out of the church by the 
 portico, a little beneath the high altar, is 
 an old brass statue of St. Peter sitting, 
 under the soles of whose feet many devout 
 persons rub their heads, and touch their 
 chaplets. This was formerly cast from a 
 
 statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another 
 place, stands a column grated about with 
 iron, whereon they report that our Blessed 
 Saviour was often wont to lean as he 
 preached in the Temple. In the work of 
 the reliquary under the cupola there are 
 eight wreathed columns brought from the 
 Temple of Solomon. In another chapel, 
 they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or, 
 as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. 
 But amongst all the chapels the one most 
 glorious has for an altar-piece a Madonna 
 bearing a dead Christ on her knees, in 
 white marble, the work of Michael Angelo. 1 
 At the upper end of the Cathedral, are 
 several stately monuments, especially that 
 of Urban VIII. Round the cupola, and 
 in many other places in the church, are 
 confession -seats, for all languages, Hebrew, 
 Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, French, 
 English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, 
 etc., as it is written on their friezes in 
 golden capitals, and there are still at 
 confessions some of all nations. Towards 
 the lower end of the church, and on the 
 side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty 
 roof, is the depositum and statue of the 
 Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso- 
 relievos about it of white marble, the work 
 of Bernini. Here are also those of Sixtus 
 IV. and Paulus III., etc. Amongst the 
 exquisite pieces in this sumptuous fabric is 
 that of the ship with St. Peter held up 
 from sinking by our Saviour ; the emblems 
 about it are the mosaic of the famous 
 Giotto, who restored and made it perfect 
 after it had been defaced by the barbarians. 
 Nor is the pavement under the cupola to 
 be passed over without observation, which 
 with the rest of the body and walls of the 
 whole church are all inlaid with the 
 richest of pietra-coinmessa, in the most 
 splendid colours of polished marbles, 
 agates, serpentine, porphyry, calcedon, 
 etc., wholly incrusted to the very roof. 
 Coming out by the portico at which we 
 entered, we were showed the Porta Santa, 
 never opened but at the year of jubilee. 
 This glorious foundation hath belonging 
 to it thirty canons, thirty-six beneficiates, 
 twenty-eight clerks beneficed, with in- 
 numerable chaplains, etc., a Cardinal 
 being always arch - priest ; the present 
 
 1 [The famous Pieta, — the only work the artist 
 signed.] 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DtAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 77 
 
 it 
 
 Cardinal was Francesco Barberini, who 
 also styled himself Protector of the English, 
 to whom he was indeed very courteous. 1 
 
 20th November. I went to visit that 
 ancient See and Cathedral of St. John di 
 Laterano, and the holy places thereabout. 
 This is a church of extraordinary devotion, 
 though, for outward form, not comparable 
 to St. Peter's, being of Gothic ordon- 
 nance. Before we went into the cathedral, 
 the Baptistery of St. John Baptist pre- 
 sented itself, being formerly part of the 
 Great Constantine's Palace, and, as it is 
 said, his chamber where by St. Silvester he 
 was made a Christian. It is of an octa- 
 gonal shape, having before the entrance 
 eight fair pillars of rich porphyry, each of 
 one entire piece, their capitals of divers 
 orders, supporting lesser columns of white 
 marble, and these supporting a noble 
 cupola, the moulding whereof is excel- 
 lently wrought. In the chapel which they 
 affirm to have been the lodging-place of 
 this Emperor, all women are prohibited 
 from entering, for the malice of Herodias 
 who caused him to lose his head. Here 
 are deposited several sacred relics of St. 
 James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, 
 etc., and two goodly pictures. Another 
 chapel, or oratory near it, is called St. 
 John the Evangelist, well adorned with 
 marbles and tables, especially those of 
 Cavali^re Giuseppe, 2 and of Tempesta, in 
 fresco. We went hence into another called 
 St. Venantius, in which is a tribunal all of 
 mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also 
 an altar of the Madonna, much visited, 
 and divers Sclavonish saints, companions 
 of Pope John IV. The portico of the 
 church is built of materials brought from 
 Pontius Pilate's house in Jerusalem. 
 
 The next sight which attracted our atten- 
 tion, was a wonderful concourse of people 
 at their devotions before a place called 
 Scala Sancta, to which is built a noble 
 front. Entering the portico, we saw those 
 
 1 [Francesco Barberini, 1597-1679, Founder of 
 the Barberini Library, and V ice-Chancellor of the 
 Church of Rome. He is buried in S. Maria della 
 Concezione, under the modest epitaph, Hie jacet 
 Pulvis, cinis, et nihil. Milton was introduced to 
 him, in 1638, by Lucas Holstenius, the librarian of 
 the Vatican ; and it was probably at the Barberini 
 Palace that Milton heard Leonora Baroni sing 
 (Pattison's Milton, 1879, p. 38). See post, under 
 19th February, and 4th May, 1645.] 
 
 2 [d'Arpino.] 
 
 large marble stairs, twenty-eight in num- 
 ber, which are never ascended but on the 
 knees, some lip devotion being used on 
 every step ; on which you may perceive 
 divers red specks of blood under a grate, 
 which they affirm to have been drops of 
 our Blessed Saviour, at the time he was 
 so barbarously used by Herod's soldiers ; 
 for these stairs are reported to have been 
 translated hither from his palace in Jerusa- 
 lem. 1 At the top of them is a chapel, 
 whereat they enter (but we could not be 
 permitted) by gates of marble, being the 
 same our Saviour passed when he went 
 out of Herod's house. This they name 
 the Sanctum Sanctorum , and over it we 
 read this epigraph : 
 
 Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus. 
 
 Here, through a grate, we saw that picture 
 of Christ painted (as they say) by the hand 
 of St. Luke, to the life. 2 Descending 
 again, we saw before the church the 
 obelisk, which is indeed most worthy of 
 admiration. It formerly lay in the Circo 
 Maximo, and was erected here by Sixtus 
 V., in 1587, being 112 feet in height 
 without the base or pedestal ; at the foot 
 nine and a half one way, and eight the 
 other. This pillar was first brought from 
 Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to 
 Alexandria, from thence to Constantinople, 
 thence to Rome, and is said by Ammianus 
 Marcellinus to have been dedicated to 
 Rameses, King of Egypt. It was trans- 
 ferred to this city by Constantine the son 
 of the Great, and is full of hieroglyphics, 
 serpents, men, owls, falcons, oxen, instru- 
 ments, etc., containing (as Father Kircher 
 the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book 
 which he is ready to publish 3 ) all the 
 recondite and abstruse learning of that 
 people. The vessel, galley, or float, that 
 brought it to Rome so many hundred 
 leagues, must needs have been of wonder- 
 
 « 
 
 1 [" These holy staires were Sent from Hierusa- 
 lem to Constantin the Great, by his Moter Queen 
 Helen, together with many other Relicks kept in 
 S. Iohh Laterans Church. They are of white 
 marble and above six foot long" (Lassels,, ii. p. 
 114).] 
 
 2 [" Its about a foot & a halfe long " — adds 
 Lassels — " and its sayd to have been begun by JT. 
 Luke, but ended miraculously by an Angel" (ii. p. 
 114).] 
 
 3 [Obelisaes Pamphilius, etc., 1650, Romcc > 
 folio, 3 vols, (see post, under 6th May, 1656).! 
 
78 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 ful bigness and strange fabric. The stone 
 is one and entire, and [having been thrown 
 down] was erected by the famous Dom. 
 Fontana for that magnificent Pope, Sixtus 
 V. , as the rest were ; it is now cracked in 
 many places, but solidly joined. The 
 obelisk is thus inscribed at the several 
 facciatas : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini 
 Augusti F. Obeliscum k patre suo motum 
 diuq ; Alexandriae jacentem, trecentorum 
 remigum impositum navi mirandse vastitatis 
 per mare Tyberimq ; magnis molibus 
 Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum 
 S.P.Q.R.D.D. 
 
 On the second square : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Max : Aug : Christianas 
 fidei Vindex & Assertor Obeliscum ab 
 jEgyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum, 
 sedibus avulsum suis per Nilum transfer. 
 Alexandriam, ut Novam Romam ab se tunc 
 conditam eo decoraret monumento. 
 
 On the third : 
 
 Sextus V. Pontifex Max : Obeliscum hunc 
 specie eximia temporum calamitate fractum, 
 Circi Maximi minis humo, limoq ; alt& 
 demersum, multa impensa extraxit, hunc in 
 locum magno labore transtulit, formaq ; 
 pristina accurate vestitum, Cruci invictis- 
 simse dicavit anno M.D.LXXXVIII. Pont. 
 IIII. 
 
 On the fourth : 
 
 Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Sil- 
 vestro hie Baptizatus Crucis gloriam propa- 
 gavit. 
 
 Leaving this wonderful monument (be- 
 fore which is a stately public fountain, 
 with a statue of St. John in the middle of 
 it), we visited his Holiness's Palace, being 
 a little on the left hand, the design of 
 Fontana, architect to Sixtus V. This I 
 take to be one of the best Palaces in 
 Rome ; x but not 'staying we entered the 
 •church of St. John di Laterano, which is 
 
 1 [" Near this Church [S. Giovanni Laterano] 
 Pope Sixtus V. caused an old decayed palace to be 
 entirely rebuilt, and with suitable splendour and 
 magnificence; but his successors never liked it so 
 well as to make it their constant residence. In 
 the year 1693 Innocent XII. converted it into an 
 "hospital for poor women, and its present endow- 
 ment is at least thirty thousand scudi or crowns " 
 ((Keysler's Travels, 1760, ii. p. 197).] 
 
 properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, 
 as I learned by these verses engraven upon 
 the architrave of the portico : 
 
 Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali 
 Qubd sim cunctarum mater caput EcclesiarD 
 Hinc Salvatoris ccelestia regnadatoris 
 Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ; 
 Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto 
 Nostra quod haec aedes ; tibi Christe sit inclyta 
 sedes 
 
 It is called Lateran, from a noble family 
 formerly dwelling it seems hereabouts, on 
 Mons Cselius. The church is Gothic, and 
 hath a stately tribunal ; the paintings are 
 of Pietro Pisano. It was the first church 
 that was consecrated with the ceremonies 
 now introduced, and where altars of stone 
 supplied those of wood heretofore in use, 
 and made like large chests for the easier 
 removal in times of persecution ; such an 
 altar is still the great one here preserved, 
 as being that on which (they hold) St. 
 Peter celebrated mass at Rome ; for which 
 reason none but the Pope may now presume 
 to make that use of it. The pavement is 
 of all sorts of precious marbles, and so are 
 the walls to a great height, over which it 
 is painted a fresco with the life and acts of 
 Constantine the Great, by most excellent 
 masters. The organs are rare, supported 
 by four columns. The soffitta is all richly 
 gilded, and full of pictures. Opposite to 
 the porta is an altar of exquisite archi- 
 tecture, with a tabernacle on it all of 
 precious stones, the work of Targoni ; 1 on 
 this is a ccena of plate, the invention of 
 Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value ; the 
 tables hanging over it are of Giuseppe 
 d' Arpino. About this are four excellent 
 columns transported but of Asia by the 
 Emperor Titus, of brass, double gilt, about 
 twelve feet in height ; the walls between 
 them are incrusted with marble and set 
 with statues in niches, the vacuum re- 
 ported to be filled with holy earth, which 
 St. Helena sent from Jerusalem to her son, 
 Constantine, who set these pillars where 
 they now stand. At one side of this is an 
 oratory full of rare paintings and monu- 
 ments, especially those of the great Con- 
 nestabile Colonna. 2 Out of this we came 
 
 1 [Pomp. Targoni, — " the engineer who made 
 the famous dykes at Rochelle," says Keysler (ii. 
 p. 191).] 
 
 2 [The Constable Colonna was the husband of 
 Mazarin's niece, Maria Mancini.j 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 79 
 
 into the Sacristia, full of good pictures of 
 Albert 1 and others. At the end of the 
 church is a flat stone supported by four 
 pillars which they affirm to have been the 
 exact height of our Blessed Saviour, and 
 say they never fitted any mortal man that 
 tried it, but he was either taller or 
 shorter ; two columns of the veil of the 
 Temple which rent at his passion ; the 
 stone on which they threw lots for his 
 seamless vesture ; and the pillar on which 
 the cock crowed, after Peter's denial ; and, 
 to omit no fine thing, the just length of 
 the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her 
 shoemaker affirmed ! Here is a sumptuous 
 cross, beset with precious stones, contain- 
 ing some of the very wood of the holy 
 cross itself; with many other things of 
 this sort : also numerous most magnificent 
 monuments, especially those of St. Helena, 
 of porphyry ; Cardinal Farnese ; Martin I. , 
 of copper ; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, 
 Martin V., Laurentius Valla, etc., are of 
 Gaetano ; the Nunciata, designed by 
 M. Angelo ; and the great crucifix of 
 Sermoneta. In a chapel at one end of the 
 porch is a statue of Henry IV. of France, 
 in brass, standing in a dark hole, and so 
 has done many years ; perhaps from not 
 believing him a thorough proselyte. The 
 two famous (Ecumenical Councils were 
 celebrated in this Church by Pope Simachus, 
 Martin I., Stephen, etc. 
 
 Leaving this venerable church (for in 
 truth it has a certain majesty in it), we 
 passed through a fair and large hospital of 
 good architecture, having some inscriptions 
 put up by Barberini, the late Pope's 
 nephew. 2 We then went by St. Sylvia, 
 where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P. , 
 begun by M. Angelo ; 3 a St. Andrew, and 
 the bath of St. Cecilia. In this church are 
 some rare paintings, especially that story 
 on the wall of Guido Reni. Thence to 
 SS. Giovanni e Paolo, where the friars 
 are reputed to be great chymists. The 
 choir, roof, and paintings in the tribuna 
 are excellent. 
 
 Descending the Mons Caelius, we came 
 against the vestiges of the Palazzo Mag- 
 giore, heretofore the Golden House of 
 
 1 [Durer.] 
 
 2 [The Hospital of S. Giovanni Laterano.] 
 
 3 [This statue of St. Gregory, St. Sylvia's son, 
 was finished by Franciosini (Keysler, ii. p. 205).] 
 
 Nero, now nothing but a heap of vast and 
 confused ruins, to show what time and the 
 vicissitude of human things does change 
 from the most glorious and magnificent to 
 the most deformed and confused. We 
 next went into St. Sebastian's Church, 
 which has a handsome front : then we 
 passed by the place where Romulus and 
 Remus were taken up by Faustulus, the 
 Forum Romanum, and so by the edge of 
 the Mons Palatinus ; where we saw the 
 ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church 
 of St. Anacletus ; and so into the Circus 
 Maximus, heretofore capable of containing 
 a hundred and sixty thousand spectators, 
 but now all one entire heap of rubbish, 
 part of it converted into a harden of pot- 
 herbs. We concluded this evening with 
 hearing the rare voices and music at the 
 Chiesa Nuova. 1 
 
 21st November. I was carried to see 
 a great virtuoso, Cavaliero Pozzo, 2 who 
 showed us a rare collection of all kinds 
 of antiquities, and a choice library, over 
 which are the effigies of most of our late 
 men of polite literature. He had a great 
 collection of the antique basso - rilievos 
 about Rome, which this curious man had 
 caused to be designed in several folios : 
 many fine medals ; the stone which Pliny 
 calls enhydros ; it had plainly in it the 
 quantity of half a spoonful of water, of a 
 yellow pebble colour, of the bigness of a 
 walnut. A stone paler than an amethyst, 
 which yet he affirmed to be the true 
 carbuncle, and harder than a diamond ; it 
 was set in a ring, without foil, or anything 
 at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of 
 a greenish yellow, more lustrous than a 
 diamond. He had very pretty things 
 painted on crimson velvet, designed in 
 black, and shaded and heightened with 
 white, set in frames ; also a number of 
 choice designs and drawings. 
 
 Hence we walked to the Suburra and 
 ^Erarium Saturni, where yet remains some 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 67.] 
 
 2 [Lassels also visited Pozzo. " Behinde this 
 Church [S. Andrea della Valle] lived, when I first 
 was acquainted with Rome, an other great 
 Virtuoso and Gentleman of Rome, I meane the 
 ingenious Cavalier Pozzo, with whom I was 
 brought acquainted, and saw all his rarityes, his 
 curious pictures, medals, bassi relievi, his excellent 
 bookes of the rarest things in the world, which he 
 caused to be painted, copied, and designed out 
 with great cost' (ii. 217).] 
 
8o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1644 
 
 ruins and an inscription. From thence to 
 S. Pietro in Vincoli, one of the seven 
 churches on the Esquiline, an old and 
 much - frequented place of great devotion 
 for the relics there, especially the bodies 
 of the seven Maccabean brethren, which 
 lie under the altar. On the wall is a 
 St. Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek 
 manner; 1 but what I chiefly regarded 
 was, that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius 
 II., 2 the work of M. Angelo ; with that 
 never-sumciently-to-be-admired statue of 
 Moses, in white marble, and those of Vita 
 Contemplativa and Activa, by the same 
 incomparable hand. To this church be- 
 longs a monastery, in the court of whose 
 cloisters grow two tall and very stately 
 palm trees. Behind these, we walked a 
 turn amongst the Baths of Titus, admiring 
 the strange and prodigious receptacles for 
 water, which the vulgar call the Sette Sale, 
 now all in heaps. 
 
 22?id November. Was the solemn and 
 greatest ceremony of all the State Ecclesi- 
 astical, viz. the procession of the Pope (In- 
 nocent X.) to St. John di Laterano, 3 which, 
 standing on the steps of Ara Coeli, near 
 the Capitol, I saw pass in this manner : — 
 First went a guard of Switzers to make 
 way, and divers of the avant- guard of 
 horse carrying lances. Next followed those 
 who carried the robes of the Cardinals, 
 two and two ; then the Cardinals' mace- 
 bearers ; the caudatari* on mules ; the 
 masters of their horse ; the Pope's barber, 
 tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic 
 officers, all on horseback in rich liveries ; 
 the squires belonging to the Guard ; five 
 men in rich liveries led five noble Nea- 
 politan horses, white as snow, covered to 
 the ground with trappings richly em- 
 broidered ; which is a service paid by the 
 King of Spain for the kingdoms of Naples 
 and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the 
 Pope ; three mules of exquisite beauty and 
 price, trapped in crimson velvet ; next 
 
 1 [It represents St. Sebastian in old age with 
 white hair and beard, carrying a martyr's crown.] 
 
 2 [Pope Julius II. is really buried in the chapel 
 of the Sacrament at St. Peter's. His tomb at St. 
 Peter in Vincoli was but partially completed. Four 
 only out of more than forty statues were finished ; 
 three, the Moses, Leah, and Rachel (Active and 
 Contemplative Life), being used for the existing 
 monument.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 61.] 
 
 4 [Caudataires, train-bearers. 
 
 followed three rich litters with mules, the 
 litters empty ; the master of the horse 
 alone, with his squires ; five trumpeters ; 
 the armerieri estra muros ; the fiscal 
 and consistorial advocates ; capellani, 
 camerieri de honore, cubiculari and cham- 
 berlains, called secreti. 
 
 Then followed four other camerieri, with 
 four caps of the dignity-pontifical, which 
 were Cardinals' hats carried on staves ; 
 four trumpets ; after them, a number of 
 noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, 
 very rich, and followed by innumerable 
 stajjfieri and pages ; the secretaries of the 
 cancellaria, abbreviatori-accoliti in their 
 long robes, and on mules ; anditori di roti ; 
 the dean of the roti and master of the 
 sacred palace, on mules, with grave, but 
 rich foot-clothes, and in fiat episcopal hats ; 
 then went more of the Roman and other 
 nobility and courtiers, with divers pages in 
 most rich liveries on horseback ; fourteen 
 drums belonging to the Capitol ; the 
 marshals with their staves ; the two syndics ; 
 the conservators of the city, in robes of 
 crimson damask ; the knight-gonfalionier 
 and prior of the R. R., in velvet toques; 
 six of his Holiness's mace-bearers ; then 
 the captain, or governor, of the Castle of 
 St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer ; the 
 governor of the city ; on both sides of these 
 two long ranks of Switzers ; the masters of 
 the ceremonies ; the cross-bearer on horse- 
 back, with two priests at each hand on 
 foot ; pages, footmen, and guards, in 
 abundance. Then came the Pope himself, 
 carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of 
 crimson velvet, richly embroidered, and 
 borne by two stately mules ; as he went, 
 he held up two fingers, blessing the multi- 
 tude who were on their knees, or looking 
 out of their windows and houses, with loud 
 vivas and acclamations of felicity to their 
 new Prince. This chair was followed by 
 the master of his chamber, cup-bearer, 
 secretary, and physician ; then came the 
 Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal- Priests, Car- 
 dinal-Deacons, Patriarchs, Archbishops, 
 and Bishops, all in their several and distinct 
 habits, some in red, others in green flat 
 hats with tassels, all on gallant mules 
 richly trapped with velvet, and led by their 
 servants in great state and multitudes ; 
 after them, the apostolical protonotari, 
 auditor, treasurer, and referendaries ; lastly, 
 
1644] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 81 
 
 the trumpets of the rear-guard, two pages 
 of arms in helmets with feathers, and 
 carrying lances ; two captains ; the ponti- 
 fical standard of the Church ; the two 
 alfieri, or cornets, of the Pope's light horse, 
 who all followed in armour and carrying 
 lances ; which, with innumerable rich 
 coaches, litters, and people, made up the 
 procession. What they did at St. John di 
 Laterano, I could not see, by reason of the 
 prodigious crowd ; so I spent most of the 
 day in viewing the two triumphal arches 
 which had been purposely erected a few 
 days before, and till now covered ; the one 
 by the Duke of Parma, in the Foro Rom- 
 ano, the other by the Jews in the Capitol, 
 with flattering inscriptions. They were 
 of excellent architecture, decorated with 
 statues and abundance of ornaments proper 
 for the occasion, since they were but 
 temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, 
 etc., painted and framed on the sudden, 
 but as to outward appearance, solid and 
 very stately. The night ended with fire- 
 works. What I saw was that which was 
 built before the Spanish Ambassador's 
 house, in the Piazza del Trinita, and 
 another, before that of the French. The 
 first appeared to be a mighty rock, bearing 
 the Pope's Arms, a dragon, and divers 
 figures, which being set on fire by one who 
 flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, 
 yet preserving the figure both of the rock 
 and statues a very long time ; insomuch as 
 it was deemed ten thousand reports of 
 squibs and crackers spent themselves in 
 order. That before the French Ambassa- 
 dor's Palace was a Diana drawn in a 
 chariot by her dogs, with abundance of 
 other figures as large as the life, which 
 played with fire in the same manner. In 
 the meantime the windows of the whole 
 city were set with tapers put into lanterns, 
 or sconces, of several coloured oiled paper, 
 that the wind might not annoy them ; this 
 rendered a most glorious show. Besides 
 these, there were at least twenty other fire- 
 works of vast charge and rare art for their 
 invention before divers Ambassadors', 
 Princes', and Cardinals' Palaces, especially 
 that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a 
 pyramid of lights, of great height, fastened 
 to the ropes and cables which support the 
 standard-pole. The streets were this night 
 as light as day, full of bonfires, cannon 
 
 roaring, music playing, fountains running; 
 wine, in all excess of joy and triumph. 
 
 2.yd November. I went to the Jesuits' 
 College again, 1 the front whereof gives 
 place to few for its architecture, most of its 
 ornaments being of rich marble. It has 
 within a noble portico and court, sustained 
 by stately columns, as is the corridor over 
 the portico, at the sides of which are the 
 schools for arts and sciences, which are 
 here taught as at the University. Here I 
 heard Father Athanasius Kircher 2 upon a 
 part of Euclid, which he expounded. To 
 this joins a glorious and ample church for 
 the students ; a second is not fully finished ; 
 and there are two noble libraries, where I 
 was showed that famous wit and historian, 
 Famianus Strada. 3 Hence we went to the 
 house of Hippolito Vitellesco (afterwards 
 bibliothecary of the Vatican library), who 
 showed us one of the best collections of 
 statues in Rome, to which he frequently 
 talks as if they were living, pronouncing 
 now and then orations, sentences, and 
 verses, sometimes kissing and embracing 
 them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in 
 the face by order of the Senate for killing 
 Julius ; this is much esteemed. Also a 
 Minerva, and others of great value. This 
 gentleman not long since purchased land in 
 the kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging 
 the ground, to find more statues ; which it 
 seems so far succeeded, as to be much more 
 worth than the purchase. We spent the 
 evening at the Chiesa Nuova, where was 
 excellent music ; but, before that began, 
 the courteous fathers led me into a nobly 
 furnished library, contiguous to their most 
 beautiful convent. 
 
 28M. I went to see the garden and 
 house of the Aldobrandini, now Cardinal 
 Borghese's. 4 This Palace is, for archi- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 66.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 67.] 
 
 3 Famian Strada, 1572-1649. Joining the Society 
 of Jesus in 1592, he was appointed professor of 
 rhetoric in their college in Rome. [His history of 
 the "Low Countrey Warres " (De Bello Belgico) 
 was " englished " by Sir R. Stapylton in 1650]. He 
 is chiefly known, however, to the English reader 
 by his Prolusiones Acade7ttic<e, in which he intro- 
 duced clever imitations of the Latin poets, transla- 
 tions of several of which Addison published in the 
 Gua?-dian (Nos. 115, 119, and 122). [He also 
 refers to him in Spectator, Nos. 241 and 617, in the 
 latter of which he styles Strada "the Cleveland of 
 his age."] 
 
 4 [Cardinal Scipio Borghese ?] 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 THE DTAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1644 
 
 tecture, magnificence, pomp, and state, one 
 of the most considerable about the city. It 
 has four fronts, and a noble piazza before it. 
 Within the courts, under arches supported 
 by marble columns, are many excellent 
 statues. Ascending the stairs, there is a 
 rare figure of Diana, of white marble. The 
 St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of 
 stupendous art. For paintings, our Saviour's 
 Head, by Correggio ; several pieces of 
 Raphael, some of which are small ; some 
 of Bassan© Veronese ; the Leda, and two 
 admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil ; 
 so is the Psyche and Cupid ; the Head of 
 St. John, borne by Herodias ; two heads 
 of Albert Durer, very exquisite. We were 
 shown here a fine cabinet and tables of 
 Florence-work in stone. In the gardens 
 are many fine fountains, the walls covered 
 with citron trees, which being rarely spread, 
 invest the stone-work entirely ; and, towards 
 the street, at a back gate, the port is so 
 handsomely clothed with ivy as much 
 pleased me. About this palace are many 
 noble antique basso-rilievos : two especially 
 are placed on the ground, representing 
 armour, and other military furniture of the 
 Romans ; beside these, stand about the 
 garden numerous rare statues, altars, and 
 urns. Above all for antiquity and curiosity 
 (as being the only rarity of that nature now 
 known to remain) is that piece of old 
 Roman painting representing the Roman 
 Sponsalia, or celebration of their marriage, 
 judged to be 1400 years old, yet are the 
 colours very lively, and the design very 
 entire, though found deep in the ground. 
 For this morsel of painting's sake only, it 
 is said the Borghesi purchased the house, 
 because this being on a wall in a kind of 
 banqueting-house in the garden, could not 
 be removed, but passes with the inherit- 
 ance. 
 
 29M November. I a second time visited 
 the Medicean Palace, 1 being near my 
 lodging, the more exactly to have a view 
 of the noble 1 collections that adorn it, 
 especially the basso-rilievos and antique 
 friezes inserted about the stone-work of the 
 house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in 
 the portico, is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter 
 and Apollo, in the hall. We were now 
 led into those rooms above we could not 
 see before, full of incomparable statues and 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 67. J 
 
 antiquities ; above all, and haply prefer- 
 able to any in the world, are the Two 
 Wrestlers, 1 for the inextricable mixture 
 with each other's arms and legs is stupen- 
 dous. In the great chamber is the Gladi- 
 ator, whetting a knife ; 2 but the Venus is 
 without parallel, 3 being the masterpiece of 
 one whose name you see graven under it in 
 old Greek characters ; 4 nothing in sculp- 
 ture ever approached this miracle of art. 
 To this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little 
 Apollo playing on a pipe ; some rilievi in- 
 crusted on the palace- walls ; and an antique 
 vase of marble, near six feet high. Among 
 the pictures may be mentioned the Mag- 
 dalen and St. Peter, weeping. I pass over 
 the cabinets and tables of pietra-co?n??iessa i 
 being the proper invention of the Floren- 
 tines. In one of the chambers is a whim- 
 sical chair, which folded into so many 
 varieties, as to turn into a bed, a bolster, 
 a table, or a couch. I had another walk 
 in the garden, where are two huge vases, 
 or baths of stone. 
 
 I went further up the hill to the Pope's 
 Palaces at Monte Cavallo, 5 where I now 
 saw the garden more exactly, and found it 
 to be one of the most magnificent and 
 pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener 
 is annually allowed 2000 scudi for the keep- 
 ing of it. Here I observed hedges of 
 myrtle above a man's height ; others of 
 laurel, oranges, nay, of ivy and juniper ; the 
 close walks, and rustic grotto ; a cryptall, 
 of which the laver, or basin, is of one 
 vast, entire, antique porphyry, and below 
 this flows a plentiful cascade ; the steps of 
 the grotto and the roofs being of rich 
 mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish- 
 pond, and an ample bath. From hence, 
 we went to taste some rare Greco ; and so 
 home. 
 
 Being now pretty weary of continual 
 walking, I kept within, for the most part, 
 till the 6th December ; and, during this 
 time, I entertained one Signor Alessandro, 
 who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. 
 
 1 {I Lottatori. It is now in the Tribune of the 
 Uffizi at Florence. _ A copy of this remarkable 
 group forms the frontispiece to Crossley's excellent 
 
 ' Golden Treasury " Epictetus (1003), one of the 
 deliverances in which it effectively illustrates.] 
 
 2 [L' Arrotino, or Knife-Grinder, now in the 
 Uffizi.] # 
 
 3 [This is also in the Uffizi.] 
 
 4 [Kleomenes, son of Apollodorus.) 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 69.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 S 
 
 The next excursion was over the Tiber, 
 which I crossed in a ferry-boat, to see the 
 Palazzo di Chigi [Farnesina], standing in 
 Trastevere, fairly built, but famous only 
 for the painting a fresco on the volto of the 
 portico towards the garden ; the story is 
 the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the 
 hand of the celebrated Raphael d' Urbino. 
 Here you always see painters designing 
 and copying after it, being esteemed one of 
 the rarest pieces of that art in the world ; 
 and with great reason. I must not omit 
 that incomparable table of Galatea (as I 
 remember), so carefully preserved in the 
 cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, 
 to protect it from the air, being a most 
 lively painting. There are likewise excel- 
 lent things of Baldassare, and others. 
 
 Thence we went to the noble house of 
 the Duke of Bracciano, fairly built, with a 
 stately court and fountain. 
 
 Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, 
 where was the Taberna Meritoria, where 
 the old Roman soldiers received their 
 triumphal garland, which they ever after 
 wore. The high altar is very fair, adorned 
 with columns of porphyry : here is also 
 some mosaic work about the choir, and the 
 Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is 
 said that this church was the first that 
 was dedicated to the Virgin at Rome. In 
 the opposite piazza is a very sumptuous 
 fountain. 
 
 I2tk December, I went again to St. 
 Peter's, to see the chapels, churches, and 
 grots under the whole church (like our St. 
 Faith's under Paul's), in which lie interred 
 a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; 
 amongst them our countryman, Adrian IV. 
 (Nicholas Breakspear), in a chest of por- 
 phyry ; St. J. Chrysostom ; Petronella ; 
 the heads of St. James Minor, St. Luke, 
 St. Sebastian, and our Thomas a Becket ; 
 a shoulder of St. Christopher ; an arm of 
 Joseph of Arimathea ; Longinus ; besides 
 134 more Bishops, Soldiers, Princes, 
 Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, Emperors, 
 their wives ; too long to particularise. 
 
 Hence we walked into the cemetery, 
 called Campo Santo, the earth consisting 
 of several shiploads of mould, transported 
 from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcase 
 in twenty-four hours. 1 To this joins that 
 rare hospital, where once was Nero's 
 
 1 [See ante, pp. 41 and 56.] 
 
 Circus ; the next to this is the Inquisition- 
 house and prison, the inside whereof, I 
 thank God, I was not curious to see. To 
 this joins his Holiness's Horse-guards. 
 
 On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, 
 being desirous of seeing the many extra- 
 ordinary ceremonies performed then in 
 their churches, as midnight masses and 
 sermons. I walked from church to church 
 the whole night in admiration at the multi- 
 tude of scenes and pageantry which the friars 
 had with much industry and craft set out, 
 to catch the devout women and super- 
 stitious sort of people, who never parted 
 without dropping some money into a vessel 
 set on purpose ; but especially observable 
 was the puppetry in the Church of the 
 Minerva, representing the Nativity. I 
 thence went and heard a sermon at the 
 Apollinare ; by which time it was morn- 
 ing. On Christmas-day, his Holiness sang 
 mass, the artillery of St. Angelo went off, 
 and all this day was exposed the cradle of 
 our Lord. 
 
 2gt/i. We were invited by the English 
 Jesuits to dinner, being their great feast 
 of Thomas [a Becket] of Canterbury. We 
 dined in their common refectory, and after- 
 wards saw an Italian comedy acted by 
 their alumni before the Cardinals. 
 
 1645 : January. We saw pass the new 
 officers of the people of Rome ; especially, 
 for their noble habits were most conspicu- 
 ous, the three Consuls, now called Con- 
 servators, who take their places in the 
 Capitol, having been sworn the day before 
 between the hands of the Pope. We 
 ended the day with the rare music at the 
 Chiesa Nuova. 
 
 6th. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's 
 baptism in the Church of St. Athanasius, 
 and at Ara Coeli was a great procession, 
 del Bambino, as they call it, where were 
 all the magistrates, and a wonderful con- 
 course of people. 
 
 Jth. A sermon was preached to the 
 Jews, at Ponte Sisto, who are constrained 
 to sit till the hour is done ; but it is with 
 so much malice in their countenances, 
 spitting, humming, coughing, and motion, 
 that it is almost impossible they should 
 hear a word from the preacher. A con- 
 version is very rare. 1 
 
 1 [Cf. Browning's "Holy-Cross Day." {Men and 
 Women, 1855). By Papal Bull of 1584, Jews were 
 
8 4 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 1 ^th January. The heads of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul are exposed at St. John di Laterano. 
 
 i$th. The zitelle, or young wenches, 
 which are to have portions given them by 
 the Pope, being poor, and to marry them, 
 walked in procession to St. Peter's, where 
 the Veronica was showed. 1 
 
 I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews 
 dwell as in a suburb by themselves ; being 
 invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to 
 see a circumcision. I passed by the Piazza 
 Judea, where their seraglio begins ; for, 
 being environed with walls, they are locked 
 every night. In this place remains yet 
 part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told 
 me had been a palace of theirs for the 
 ambassador of their nation, when their 
 country was subject to the Romans. Being 
 led through the Synagogue into a private 
 house, I found a world of people in a 
 chamber ; by and by came an old man, 
 who prepared and laid in order divers in- 
 struments brought by a little child of about 
 seven years old in a box. These the man 
 laid in a silver basin ; the knife was much 
 like a short razor to shut into the half. 
 Then they burnt some incense in a censer, 
 which perfumed the room all the while the 
 ceremony was performing. In the basin 
 was a little cap made of white paper like 
 a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the 
 finger : also a paper of a red astringent 
 powder, I suppose of bole ; a small instru- 
 ment of silver, cleft in the middle at one 
 end, to take up the prepuce withal ; a fine 
 linen cloth wrapped up. These being all 
 in order, the woman brought the infant 
 swaddled, out of another chamber, and 
 delivered it to the Rabbi, who carried and 
 presented it before an altar, or cupboard, 
 dressed up, on which lay the five books of 
 Moses, and the Commandments, a little un- 
 rolled. Before this, with profound rever- 
 ence, and mumbling a few words, he 
 moved the child to and fro awhile ; then 
 he delivered it to another Rabbi, who sate 
 all this time upon a table. Whilst the 
 ceremony was performing, all the com- 
 pany fell singing a Hebrew hymn, in a 
 barbarous tone, waving themselves to and 
 
 compelled to hear sermons at the Church of St. 
 Angelo in Pescheria [i.e. Fish Market] close to the 
 Ghetto or Jews' quarter in Rome (Berdoe's Brown- 
 ing Cyclopedia, 1892, p. 208). This custom was 
 abolished in 1848 by Pius IX.] 
 
 1 [See^osi, under nth April, 1645.] 
 
 fro ; a ceremony they observe in all their 
 devotions. 1 — The Jews in Rome all wear 
 yellow hats, live only upon brokage and 
 usury, very poor and despicable, beyond 
 what they are in other territories of Princes 
 where they are permitted. 
 
 iStk. I went to see the Pope's Palace, 
 the Vatican, where he for the most part 
 keeps his Court. It was first built by 
 Pope Simachus, and since augmented to 
 a vast pile of building by his successors. 
 That part of it added by Sixtus V. is most 
 magnificent. This leads us into divers 
 terraces arched sub dzo, painted by Raphael 
 with the histories of the Bible, so esteemed 
 that artists come from all parts of Europe 
 to make their studies from these designs. 
 The foliage and grotesque about some of 
 the compartments are admirable. 2 In 
 another room are represented at large, 
 maps and plots of most countries in the 
 world, in vast tables, with brief descrip- 
 tions. The stairs which ascend out of St. 
 Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely 
 contrived for ease ; these lead into the hall 
 of Gregory XIII., the walls whereof half- 
 way to the roof, are incrusted with most 
 precious marbles of various colours and 
 works. So is also the pavement inlaid 
 work ; but what exceeds description is the 
 vo/to, or roof itself, which is so exquisitely ' 
 painted, that it is almost impossible for the 
 skilfullest eye to discern whether it be the 
 work of the pencil upon a flat, or of a tool 
 cut deep in stone. The rota dentata, in 
 this admirable perspective, on the left hand 
 as one goes out, the stella, etc. , are things 
 of art incomparable. Certainly this is one 
 of the most superb and royal apartments in 
 the world, much too beautiful for a guard 
 of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but 
 drink and play at cards in it. Going up 
 these stairs is a painting of St. Peter, walk- 
 ing on the sea towards our Saviour. 
 
 Out of this I went into another hall, just 
 before the chapel, called the Sala del Con- 
 clave, full of admirable paintings ; amongst 
 
 1 [This must have been one of the sights of 
 Rome, for Edward Browne witnessed it in January, 
 1665 (Sir Thomas Browne's Works, 1836, i. 86). 
 Lassels also " once saw a circumcision, but [he 
 says] it was so painfull to the child, that it was 
 able to make a man heartily thank God that he is 
 a Christian" (ii. 8t).] 
 
 2 [Painted from the designs of Raphael, by John 
 of Udine, his scholar.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 85 
 
 others is the Assassination of Coligni, the 
 great [Protestant] French Admiral, mur- 
 dered by the Duke of Guise, in the Parisian 
 massacre at the nuptials of Henry IV. 
 with Queen Margaret ; under it is written, 
 " Coligni et sociorum csedes": on the 
 other side, "Rex Coligni necem probat." 1 
 There is another very large picture, 2 
 under which is inscribed : 
 
 Alexander Papa III., Frederici Primi Im- 
 peratoris iram et impetum fugiens, abdidit se 
 Venetijs ; cognitum et k senatu perhonori- 
 fice susceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio 
 navali prselio victo captoq ; Fredericus, pace 
 facta, supplex adorat ; fidem et obedientiam 
 pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. 
 Reip. beneficio restituta MCLXXVin. 
 
 This inscription I the rather took notice 
 of, because Urban VIII. had caused it to 
 be blotted out during the difference between 
 him and that State ; but it was now re- 
 stored and refreshed by his successor, to 
 the great honour of the Venetians. The 
 Battle of Lepanto is another fair piece 
 here. 3 
 
 Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so 
 much celebrated for the Last Judgment 
 painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a 
 painting in fresco, upon a dead wall at the 
 upper end of the chapel, just over the high 
 altar, of a vast design and miraculous fancy, 
 considering the multitude of naked figures 
 and variety of posture. The roof also is 
 full of rare work. Hence, we went into 
 the sacrist ia, where were showed all the 
 most precious vestments, copes, and furniture 
 of the chapel. One priestly cope, with the 
 whole suite, had been sent from one of our 
 English Henrys, and is shown for a great 
 
 1 [Keysler says this picture was by Vasari. But 
 when he wrote, the second inscription had for some 
 time been covered " with a little gilded border."] 
 
 2 Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath 
 and violence of the Emperor Frederick I., took 
 shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and 
 most honourably received by the Senate. The 
 Emperor's son, Otho, being conquered and taken 
 in a. naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, 
 became a suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty 
 and obedience. Thus his dignity was restored to 
 the Pontiff, by the aid of the Republic of Venice, 
 mclxxviii. The picture is by Gioseppe Salvioti. 
 
 3 ["The famous sea-fight against the Turks at 
 Lepanto in the pontificate of Pius V. is the joint 
 work of Frederico and Taddeo Zuccari, Donato de 
 Formello, and Livio Agresti" (Keysler, ii. 284). 
 See alsojtost, account of the Courts of Justice at 
 Venice, 1645.] 
 
 rarity. 1 There were divers of the Pope's 
 pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, 
 having rich jewels embroidered on the 
 instep, covered with crimson velvet ; also 
 his tiara, or triple crown, divers mitres, 
 crosiers, etc., all bestudded with precious 
 stones, gold, and pearl, to a very great 
 value ; a very large cross, carved (as they 
 affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous 
 utensils of crystal, gold, agate, amber, and 
 other costly materials for the altar. 
 
 We then went into those chambers painted 
 with the Histories of the burning of Rome, 
 quenched by the procession of a Crucifix ; 
 the victory of Constantine over Maxentius ; 
 St. Peter's delivery out of Prison ; all by 
 Julio Romano, and are therefore called the 
 Painters' Academy, because you always 
 find some young men or other designing 
 from them ; a civility which is not refused 
 in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old 
 and best masters are extant, and which is 
 the occasion of breeding up many excellent 
 men in that profession. 
 
 The Sala Clementina's soffitta is painted 
 by Cherubin Alberti 2 with an ample land- 
 scape of Paul Bril's. 
 
 We were then conducted into a new 
 gallery, whose sides were painted with 
 views of the most famous places, towns, 
 and territories in Italy, rarely done, and 
 upon the roof the chief Acts of the Roman 
 Church since St. Peter's pretended See 
 there. It is doubtless one of the most 
 magnificent galleries in Europe. — Out of 
 this we came into the Consistory, a noble 
 room, the volto painted in grotesque, as 
 I remember. At the upper end, is an 
 elevated throne and a bcldacchino^ or canopy 
 of state, for his Holiness, over it. 
 
 From thence, through a very long gallery 
 (longer, I think, than the French Kings' 
 at the Louvre), but only of bare walls, we 
 were brought into the Vatican Library. 
 This passage was now full of poor people, 
 to each of whom, in his passage to St. 
 Peter's, the Pope gave a messo grosse. I 
 
 1 [This must have been "the neat Chasuble of 
 cloth of tyssue with the pictures of the ministring 
 the seaven Sacraments, all embroidered in it in 
 silk and gold so rarely that the late Lord Mar eschal 
 of England Tho. Earle of Arundel [d. 1646] got 
 leave to have it painted out, and so much the more 
 willingly, because it had been given to the Pofte by 
 King Henry the VIII. a little before his Schzstne " 
 (Lassels, ii. p. 51).] 
 
 2 [Cherubino Alberti, 1552-1615.] 
 
86 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 believe they were in number near 1 500 or 
 2000 persons. 
 
 This library is the most nobly built, 
 furnished, and beautified of any in the 
 world ; ample, stately, light, and cheerful, 
 looking into a most pleasant garden. The 
 walls and roof are painted, not with antiques 
 and grotesques, like our Bodleian at Oxford, 
 but emblems, figures, diagrams, and the 
 like learned inventions, found out by the 
 wit and industry of famous men, of which 
 there are now whole volumes extant. There 
 were likewise the effigies of the most 
 illustrious men of letters and fathers of the 
 church, with divers noble statues, in white 
 marble, at the entrance, viz. Hippolytus 
 and Aristides. The General Councils are 
 painted on the side- walls. As to the rang- 
 ing of the books, they are all shut up in 
 presses of wainscot, and not exposed on 
 shelves to the open air, nor are the most 
 precious mixed amongst the more ordinary, 
 which are showed to the curious only ; such 
 are those two Virgils written on parchment, 
 of more than a thousand years old ; the 
 like, a Terence ; 1 the Acts of the Apostles 
 in golden capital letters ; Petrarch's 
 Epigrams, written with his own hand ; 
 also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the 
 ancient manner, from whence they were 
 first called Volumina, with the Cornua ; 
 but what we English do much inquire after, 
 the book which our Henry VIII. writ 
 against Luther. 2 
 
 The largest room is 100 paces long ; at 
 the end is the gallery of printed books ; 
 then the gallery of the Duke of Urban's 
 library/ in which are MSS. of remarkable 
 
 1 [" Here also is a manuscript of Terence, with re- 
 presentations of the personce or masques used on the 
 stage by the ancient comedians " (Keysler, ii. 291.)] 
 
 2 This very book, by one of those curious chances 
 that occasionally happen, found its way into 
 England some forty years ago, and was seen by 
 Bray. It may be worth remarking that wherever, 
 in the course of it, the title of Defender of 'the Faith 
 was subjoined to the name of Henry, the Pope 
 had drawn his pen through the title. The name of 
 the King occurred in his own handwriting both at 
 the beginning and end ; and on the binding were the 
 Royal Arms. Its possessor had purchased it in 
 Italy for a few shillings from an old book-stall. 
 ["When it appeared that I was come from England," 
 says Gilbert Burnet,—" King Henry VIII. 's book 
 of the Seven Sacraments, with an inscription writ 
 upon it with his own hand to Pope Leo X., was 
 showed me" {Travels [in 1685-86], 1737, p. 187).] 
 
 3 [Bequeathed to the Vatican by the Duke 
 (Lassels, ii. p. 64).] 
 
 miniature, and divers China, Mexican, 
 Samaritan, Abyssinian, and other oriental 
 books. 
 
 In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces 
 long, were all the books taken from Heidel- 
 berg, of which the learned Gruter, and 
 other great scholars, had been keepers. 1 
 These walls and volto are painted with 
 representations of the machines invented 
 by Domenico Fontana for erection of the 
 obelisks ; 2 and the true design of Mahomet's 
 sepulchre at Mecca. 
 
 Out of this we went to see the Conclave, 
 where, during a vacancy, the Cardinals are 
 shut up till they are agreed upon a new 
 election ; the whole manner whereof was 
 described to us. 
 
 Hence we went into the Pope's Armoury, 
 under the Library. Over the door is this 
 inscription : 
 
 URBANUS VIII. L1TTERIS ARMA, ARMA 
 LITTERIS. 
 
 I hardly believe any Prince in Europe is 
 able to show a more completely furnished 
 library of Mars, for the quality and quantity, 
 which is 40,000 3 complete for horse and 
 foot, and neatly kept. Out of this we 
 passed again by the long gallery, and at 
 the lower end of it down a very large pair 
 of stairs, round, . without any steps as 
 usually, but descending with an evenness 
 so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, or 
 coach, may with ease be drawn up ; the 
 sides of the vacuity are set with columns : 
 those at Amboise, on the Loire, in France, 
 are something of this invention, but nothing 
 so spruce. 4 By these, we descended into 
 the Vatican gardens, called Belvedere, where 
 entering first into a kind of court, we were 
 showed those incomparable statues (so 
 famed by Pliny and others) of Laocoon 
 with his three sons embraced by a huge 
 serpent, all of one entire Parian stone, 5 
 very white and perfect, somewhat bigger 
 than the life, the work of those three 
 celebrated sculptors, Agesandrus, Poly- 
 dorus, and Artemidorus, Rhodians ; it was 
 
 1 [" Sent to Rome by the Duke of Bavaria after 
 he had dispossessed the Elector Frederick Prince 
 Palatin ofRhein" (Lassels, ii. p. 65).] 
 
 2 [See ante, pp. 74 and 77.] 
 
 3 [Lassels says 30,000 (ii. p. 69).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 45.] 
 
 5 [Pliny says " ex tino lapide" But the Vatican 
 group is said to be of six pieces.] 
 
1 645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 87 
 
 found amongst the ruins of Titus's Baths, 
 and placed here. Pliny says this statue is 
 to be esteemed before all pictures and 
 statues in the world ; l and I am of his 
 opinion, for I never beheld anything of art 
 approach it. Here are also those two famous 
 images of Nilus with the Children playing 
 about him, and that of Tiber; Romulus 
 and Remus with the Wolf; the dying 
 Cleopatra ; the Venus and Cupid, rare 
 pieces ; the Mercury ; Cybele ; Hercules ; 
 Apollo ; Antinous : most of which are, for 
 defence against the weather, shut up in niches 
 with wainscot doors. We were likewise 
 showed the relics of the Hadrian Moles, 
 viz. the Pine, a vast piece of metal which 
 stood on the summit of that mausoleum ; 
 also a peacock of copper, supposed to have 
 been part of Scipio's monument. 
 
 In the garden without this (which con- 
 tains a vast circuit of ground) are many 
 stately fountains, especially two casting 
 water into antique lavers, brought from 
 Titus's Baths ; some fair grots and water- 
 works, 2 that noble cascade where the ship 
 dances, with divers other pleasant inven- 
 tions, walks, terraces, meanders, fruit trees, 
 and a most goodly prospect over the greatest 
 part of the city. One fountain under the 
 gate I must not omit, consisting of three 
 jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or 
 probosces of bees (the arms of the late 
 Pope), 3 because of the inscription : 
 
 Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit? 
 Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam. 
 
 23rd January. We went without the 
 walls of the city to visit St. Paul's, to 
 which place it is said the Apostle bore his 
 own head after Nero had caused it to be 
 cut off. The church was founded by the 
 great Constantine ; the main roof is sup- 
 ported by 100 vast columns of marble, 
 and the mosaic work of the great arch is 
 wrought with a very ancient story A° 440 ; 
 as is likewise that of the facciata. The gates 
 are brass, made at Constantinople in 1070, 
 as you may read by those Greek verses en- 
 graven on them. The Church is near 500 
 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five 
 
 1 [" Opus omnibus et pictures et sta.tua.rice artis 
 prcpferendum" (Pliny, N.H. xxxvi. p. 37).] 
 
 2 [" Great variety of Grottes and wetting sports," 
 says Lassels, ii. p. 69.] 
 
 3 [Urban VIII. (Maffeo Barberini), d. 29th July 
 1644.] 
 
 great aisles joined to it, on the basis of one 
 of whose columns is this odd title : " Fl. 
 Eugenius Asellus C. C. Pnef. Urbis V. S. I. 
 reparavit." Here they showed us that 
 miraculous Crucifix which they say spake 
 to St. Bridget : and, just before the Ciborio, 
 stand two excellent statues. Here are 
 buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and 
 St. Peter. The pavement is richly inter- 
 woven with precious oriental marbles about 
 the high altar, where are also four excellent 
 paintings, whereof one, representing the 
 stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of a 
 Bolognian lady, named Lavinia. 1 The 
 tabernacle on this altar is of excellent 
 architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel 
 del Sacramento are of Lanfranco. Divers 
 other relics there be also in this venerable 
 church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of 
 the Woman of Samaria ; the chain which 
 bound St. Paul, and the eqtmleus 2 used in 
 tormenting the primitive Christians. The 
 church stands in the Via Ostiensis, about 
 a mile from the walls of the city, separated 
 from many buildings near it except the Tre 
 Fontane, to which (leaving our coach) we 
 walked, going over the mountain or little 
 rising, upon which story says a hundred 
 seventy and four thousand Christians had 
 been martyred by Maximianus, Diocletian, 
 and other bloody tyrants. On this stand 
 St. Vincent's and St. Anastasius ; likewise 
 the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, 
 in whose Tribuna is a very fair mosaic work. 
 The Church of the Tre Fontane (as they 
 are called) is perfectly well built, though 
 but small (whereas that of St. Paul is but 
 Gothic), having a noble cupola in the 
 middle ; in this they show the pillar to 
 which St. Paul was bound, when his head 
 was cut off, and from whence it made three 
 prodigious leaps, where there immediately 
 broke out the three remaining fountains, 
 which give denomination to this church. 
 The waters are reported to be medicinal ; 
 over each is erected an altar and a chained 
 ladle, for better tasting of the waters. 
 That most excellent picture of St. Peter's 
 Crucifixion is of Guido. 3 
 
 2$th. I went again to the Palazzo 
 Farnese, to see some certain statues and 
 
 1 [Lavinia Fontana (Lassels, ii. p. 89). She died 
 at Rome in 1614.] 
 
 2 [A wooden rack in the shape of a horse.] 
 
 3 [According to Lassels, ii. p. 90, an altar-piece 
 in the Tre Fontane.] 
 
88 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN' E VEL YN 
 
 [1645 
 
 antiquities which, by reason of the major- 
 domo not being within, I could not 
 formerly obtain. In the hall stands that 
 triumphant coloss of one of the family, 1 
 upon three figures, a modern, but rare 
 piece. About it stood some Gladiators ; 
 and, at the entrance into one of the first 
 chambers, are two cumbent figures of Age 
 and Youth, brought hither from St. Peter's 
 to make room for the Longinus under the 
 cupola. Here was the statue of a ram 
 running at a man on horseback, a most 
 incomparable expression of Fury, cut in 
 stone ; and a table of pietra- conwiessa, 
 very curious. The next chamber was all 
 painted a fresco^ by a rare hand, as was 
 the carving in wood of the ceiling, which, 
 as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian 
 mode is, and not poor plaster, as ours are ; 
 some of them most richly gilt. In a third 
 room, stood the famous Venus, and the 
 child Hercules strangling a serpent, of Cor- 
 inthian brass, antique, on a very curious 
 basso-rilievo ; the sacrifice to Priapus ; the 
 Egyptian Isis, in the hard, black ophite 
 stone, taken out of the Pantheon, greatly 
 celebrated by the antiquaries : likewise 
 two tables of brass, containing divers old 
 Roman laws. At another side of this 
 chamber, was the statue of a wounded 
 Amazon falling from her horse, worthy the 
 name of the excellent sculptor, whoever 
 the artist was. Near this was a basso- 
 rilievo of a Bacchanalia, with a most 
 curious Silenus. The fourth room was 
 totally environed with statues ; especially 
 observable was that so renowned piece 
 of a Venus looking backward over her 
 shoulder, and divers other naked figures, 
 by the old Greek masters. Over the doors 
 are two Venuses, one of them looking on 
 her face in a glass, by M. Angelo ; the 
 other is painted by Caracci. I never saw 
 finer faces, especially that under the mask, 
 whose beauty and art are not to be de- 
 scribed by words. The next chamber is 
 also full of statues ; most of them the heads 
 of philosophers, very antique. One of the 
 Caesars and another of Hannibal cost 1200 
 crowns. Now I had a second view of that 
 never - to - be - sufficiently - admired gallery, 
 painted in deep rilievo, the work of ten 
 years' study, for a trifling reward. In 
 
 1 [Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma, famous 
 in the Flemish wars.] 
 
 the wardrobe above they showed us fine 
 wrought plate, porcelain, mazers x of beaten 
 and solid gold, set with diamonds, rubies, 
 and emeralds ; a treasure, especially the 
 workmanship considered, of inestimable 
 value. This is all the Duke of Parma's. 
 Nothing seemed to be more curious and 
 rare in its kind than the complete service 
 of the purest crystal, for the altar of the 
 chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, 
 sprinkler, etc., were all of the rock, in- 
 comparably sculptured, with the holy story 
 in deep levati ; thus was also wrought the 
 crucifix, chalice, vases, flower -pots, the 
 largest and purest crystal that my eyes 
 ever beheld. Truly I looked on this as 
 one of the greatest curiosities I had seen 
 in Rome. In another part were presses 
 furnished with antique arms, German 
 clocks, perpetual motions, watches, and 
 curiosities of Indian works. A very 
 ancient picture of Pope Eugenius ; a St. 
 Bernard ; and a head of marble found long 
 since, supposed to be a true portrait of our 
 Blessed Saviour's face. 
 
 Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, 2 a 
 famous poet and countryman of ours, who 
 had some intendency in an Hospital built 
 on the Via Triumphalis, called Christ's 
 Hospital, which he showed us. The In- 
 firmatory, where the sick lay, was paved 
 with various coloured marbles, and the 
 walls hung with noble pieces ; the beds 
 are very fair ; in the middle is a stately 
 cupola, under which is an altar decked 
 with divers marble statues, all in sight of 
 the sick, who may both see and hear mass, 
 as they lie in their beds. The organs are 
 very fine, and frequently played on to 
 recreate the people in pain. To this joins 
 an apartment destined for the orphans ; 
 and there is a school : the children wear 
 blue, like ours in London, at an hospital 
 of the same appellation. 3 Here are forty 
 nurses, who give suck to such children as 
 are accidentally found exposed and aban- 
 doned. In another quarter, are children 
 of a bigger growth, 450 in number, who 
 are taught letters. In another, 500 girls, 
 under the tuition of divers religious matrons, 
 in a monastery, as it were, by itself. I 
 
 1 [A mazer is a bowl - shaped drinking vessel, 
 sometimes having a low foot. ] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 65.] 
 
 3 [The Blue Coat School.] 
 
16453 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 89 
 
 was assured there were at least 2000 more 
 maintained in other places. I think one 
 apartment had in it near 1000 beds ; these 
 are in a very long room, having an inner 
 passage for those who attend, with as 
 much care, sweetness, and conveniency as 
 can be imagined, the Italians being gener- 
 ally very neat. Under the portico, the sick 
 may walk out and take the air. Opposite 
 to this, are other chambers for such as are 
 sick of maladies of a more rare and difficult 
 cure, and they have rooms apart. At the 
 end of the long corridor is an apothecary's 
 shop, fair and very well stored ; near which 
 are chambers for persons of better quality, 
 who are yet necessitous. Whatever the 
 poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered 
 to a treasurer, who makes an inventory, and 
 is accountable to them or their representa- 
 tives if they die. 
 
 To this building joins the house of the 
 Commendator, who, with his officers at- 
 tending the sick, make up ninety persons ; 
 besides a convent and an ample church for 
 the friars and priests who daily attend. 
 The church is extremely neat, and the 
 sacristia is very rich. Indeed it is alto- 
 gether one of the most pious and worthy 
 foundations I ever saw. Nor is the benefit 
 small which divers young physicians and 
 chirurgeons reap by the experience they 
 learn here amongst the sick, to whom those 
 students have free access. Hence, we 
 ascended a very steep hill, near the Port 
 St. Pancrazio, to that stately fountain called 
 Acqua Paula, being the aqueduct which 
 Augustus had brought to Rome, now re- 
 edified by Paulus V. ; a rare piece of architec- 
 ture, and which serves the city after a journey 
 of thirty- five miles, here pouring itself into 
 divers ample lavers, out of the mouths of 
 swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. 
 Situate on a very high mount, it makes a 
 most glorious show to the city, especially 
 when the sun darts on the water as it 
 gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are : 
 
 Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. 
 Aquaeductus ab Augusto Csesare extructos, 
 sevi longinqua vetustate collapsos, in ampli- 
 orem formam restituit anno salutis M.D.CIX. 
 Pont. V. 
 
 And, towards the fields : 
 
 Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maxi- 
 
 mus, priori ductu longissimi temporis injuria 
 pene diruto, sublimiorem 
 
 • i • ■ * 
 
 [One or more leaves are here wanting in 
 Evelyn's MS., descriptive of other parts of 
 Rome, and of his leaving the city. ] 
 
 Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of 
 the Volsci, where is a public and fair statue 
 of P. Urban VIII. , in brass, and a stately 
 fountain in the street. Here we lay, and 
 drank excellent wine. 
 
 2&th January. We dined at Sermoneta, 
 descending all this morning down a stony 
 mountain, unpleasant, yet full of olive trees ; 
 and, anon, pass a tower built on a rock, 
 kept by a small guard against the banditti 
 who infest these parts, daily robbing and 
 killing passengers, as my Lord Banbury 1 
 and his company found to their cost a little 
 before. To this guard we gave some 
 money, and so were suffered to pass, which 
 was still on the Appian to the Tres Tabernse 
 (whijther the brethren came from Rome to 
 meet St. Paul, Acts, c. 28) ; the ruins 
 whereof are yet very fair, resembling the 
 remainder of some considerable edifice, as 
 may be judged by the vast stones and fair- 
 ness of the arched work. The country 
 environing this passage is hilly, but rich ; 
 on the right hand stretches an ample plain, 
 being the Pomptini Campi. We reposed 
 this night at Piperno, in the post-house 
 without the town ; and here I was extremely 
 troubled with a sore hand, from a mis- 
 chance at Rome, which now began to 
 fester, upon my base, unlucky, stiff-necked, 
 trotting, carrion mule ; which are the most 
 wretched beasts in the world. In this town 
 was the poet Virgil's Camilla born. 2 
 
 The day following, we were fain to hire 
 a strong convoy of about thirty firelocks, to 
 guard us through the cork -woods (much 
 infested with the banditti) as far as Fossa 
 Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and 
 now stands a church with a great monas- 
 tery, the place where Thomas Aquinas both 
 studied and lies buried. 3 Here we all 
 alighted, and were most courteously re- 
 
 1 [Nicholas Knollys, 1631-74, third Earl of Ban- 
 bury.] 
 
 2 [Virgil, Bk. vii. of SEneid. Piperno — her 
 birthplace — was the ancient Privernum.] 
 
 s ["Fossa Nuova" — says Lassels — "where 5". 
 TJiomas o/Aquin going to the Council 0/ Lyons, 
 fell sick and dyed " (ii. p. 259).] 
 
90 
 
 THE VIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1645 
 
 ceived by the Monks, who showed us many 
 relics of their learned Saint, and at the 
 high altar the print forsooth of the mule's 
 hoof which he caused to kneel before the 
 Host. The church is old, built after the 
 Gothic manner ; but the place is very 
 agreeably melancholy. After this, pur- 
 suing the same noble [Appian] way (which 
 we had before left a little), we found it to 
 stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and 
 afterwards as far as Brundusium. It was 
 built by that famous Consul, 1 twenty-five 
 feet broad, every twelve feet something 
 ascending for the ease and firmer footing of 
 horse and man ; both the sides are also a 
 little raised for those who travel on foot. 
 The whole is paved with a kind of beach- 
 stone, and, as I said, ever and anon adorned 
 with some old ruin, sepulchre, or broken 
 statue. In one of these monuments Pan- 
 cirollus tells us that, in the time of Paul 
 III., there was found the body of a young 
 lady, swimming in a kind of bath of 
 precious oil, or liquor, fresh and entire as 
 if she had been living, neither her face dis- 
 coloured, nor her hair disordered ; at her 
 feet burnt a lamp, which suddenly expired 
 at the opening of the vault ; having flamed, 
 as was computed, now 1500 years, by the 
 conjecture that she was Tulliola, the 
 daughter of Cicero, whose body was thus 
 found, and as the inscription testified. We 
 dined this day at Terracina, heretofore the 
 famous Anxur, which stands upon a very 
 eminent promontory, the Cercean by name. 
 Whilst meat was preparing, I went up into 
 the town, and viewed the fair remainders 
 of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a 
 church, adorned with most stately columns ; 
 its architecture has been excellent, as may 
 be deduced from the goodly cornices, 
 mouldings, and huge white marbles of 
 which it is built. Before the portico stands 
 a pillar thus inscribed : 
 
 Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta 
 Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco ; 
 
 for, it seems, Theodoric drained their 
 marches. 
 
 On another more ancient : 
 
 Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva 
 TrojanusAug. Germanicus Dacicus. Pontif. 
 
 1 [Appius Claudius Caecus, the Censor, 312 B.C. 
 The Via Appia is about eleven Roman miles in 
 length.] 
 
 Max. Trib. Pop. xvm. Imp. VI. Cos. v. p. p. 
 xvin. Silices sua pecunia stravit. 
 
 Meaning, doubtless, some part of the Via 
 Appia. Then : 
 
 Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procura- 
 tor! et Praefect. Classis. — Ti. Julius. T. 
 Fab. optatus II. vir. 
 
 Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, 
 with something engraven on it, but I could 
 not stay to consider it. Coming down 
 again, I went towards the sea-side to con- 
 template that stupendous strange rock and 
 promontory, cleft by hand, I suppose, for 
 the better passage. Within this is the 
 Cercean Cave, which I went into a good 
 way ; it makes a dreadful noise, by reason 
 of the roaring and impetuous waves con- 
 tinually assaulting the beach, and that in 
 an unusual manner. At the top, at an 
 excessive height, stands an old and very 
 great castle. We arrived this night at 
 Fondi, a most dangerous passage for 
 robbing ; and so we passed by Galba's 
 villa, and anon entered the kingdom of 
 Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph 
 saluted us : " Hospes, hie sunt fines Regni 
 Neopolitani ; si amicus advenis, pacate 
 omnia invenies, et malis moribus pulsis, 
 bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a 
 noble prospect ; having before considered 
 how it was carried through vast moun- 
 tains of rocks for many miles, by most 
 stupendous labour : here it is infinitely 
 pleasant, beset with sepulchres and anti- 
 quities, full of sweet shrubs in the environ- 
 ing hedges. At Fondi, we had oranges 
 and citrons for nothing, the trees growing 
 in every corner, charged with fruit. 
 
 2gt/i January. We descried Mount 
 Csecubus, famous for the generous wine it 
 heretofore produced, and so rid onward 
 the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentis- 
 cuses, bays, pomegranates, and whole 
 groves of orange trees, and most delicious 
 shrubs, till we came to Formia [Formue], 
 where they showed us Cicero's Tomb, 
 standing in an olive grove, now a rude 
 heap of stones without form or beauty ; 
 for here that incomparable orator was 
 murdered. I shall never forget how 
 exceedingly I was delighted with the 
 sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre 
 mixed amongst all sorts of verdure ; besides 
 being now come within sight of the noble 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN £ VEL YN 
 
 9i 
 
 city, Caieta [Gaeta], which gives a sur- 
 prising prospect along the Tyrrhene Sea, 
 in manner of a theatre : and here we 
 beheld that strangely cleft rock, a frightful 
 spectacle, which they say happened upon 
 the passion of our Blessed Saviour ; but 
 the haste of our procaccio a did not suffer us 
 to dwell so long on these objects and the 
 many antiquities of this town as we 
 desired. 
 
 At Formice, we saw Cicero's grot, dining 
 at Mola, and passing Sinuessa, Garigliano 
 (once the city Minturme), and beheld the 
 ruins of that vast amphitheatre and aque- 
 duct yet standing ; the river Liris, which 
 bounded the old Latium, Falernus, or 
 Mons Massicus, celebrated for its wine, 
 now named Garo ; and this night we 
 lodged at a little village, called St. Agatha, 
 in the Falernian Fields, near to Aurunca 
 and Sessa. 
 
 The next day, having passed [the river] 
 Vulturnus, we come by the Torre di Fran- 
 colisi, where Hannibal, in danger from 
 Fabius Maximus, escaped by debauching 
 his enemies ; 2 and so at last we entered 
 the most pleasant plains of Campania, now 
 called Terra di Lavoro ; in very truth, I 
 think, the most fertile spot that ever the sun 
 shone upon. Here we saw the slender 
 ruins of the once mighty Capua, contend- 
 ing at once both with Rome and Carthage, 
 for splendour and empire, now nothing 
 but a heap of rubbish, except showing some 
 vestige of its .former magnificence in pieces 
 of temples, arches, theatres, columns, ports, 
 vaults, colosses, etc., confounded together 
 by the barbarous Goths and Longobards ; 
 there is, however, a new city, nearer to the 
 road by two miles, fairly raised out of these 
 heaps. The passage from this town to 
 Naples (which is about ten or twelve Eng- 
 lish post miles) is as straight as a line, of 
 great breadth, fuller of travellers than I 
 remember any of our greatest and most 
 frequented roads near London ; but, what 
 is extremely pleasing, is the great fertility 
 of the fields, planted with fruit-trees, whose 
 boles are serpented with excellent vines, 
 and they so exuberant, that it is commonly 
 reported one vine will load five mules with 
 
 1 ["The Guide or Messenger in Italy, which in 
 the morning calls to horse " {Miscellaneous Writ- 
 ings, 1825, p. 49 «.).] 
 
 2 [ 7 th December, 43 B.C.] 
 
 its grapes. What adds much to the 
 pleasure of the sight is, that the vines, 
 climbing to the summit of the trees, reach 
 in festoons and fruitages from one tree to 
 another, planted at exact distances, forming 
 a more delightful picture than painting can 
 describe. Here grow rice, canes for sugar, 
 olives, pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, 
 oranges, figs, and other sorts of rare fruits. 
 About the middle of the way is the town 
 Aversa, 1 whither came three or four 
 coaches to meet our lady - travellers, of 
 whom we now took leave, having been 
 very merry by the way with them and the 
 capiiano, their gallant. 
 
 yist January. About noon, we entered 
 the city of Naples, alighting at the Three 
 Kings, where we found the most plentiful 
 fare all the time we were in Naples. Pro- 
 visions are wonderfully cheap ; we seldom 
 sat down to fewer than eighteen or twenty 
 dishes of exquisite meat and fruits. 
 
 The morrow after our arrival, in the 
 afternoon, we hired a coach to carry us 
 about the town. First, we went to the 
 castle of St. Elmo, 2 built on a very high 
 rock, whence we had an entire prospect of 
 the whole city, which lies in shape of a 
 theatre upon the sea -brink, with all the 
 circumjacent islands, as far as Capreze, 3 
 famous for the debauched recesses of 
 Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the 
 whole city, and was well stored and garri- 
 soned with native Spaniards. 4 The strange- 
 ness of the precipice and rareness of the 
 prospect of so many magnificent and stately 
 palaces, churches, and monasteries, with 
 the Arsenal, the Mole, and Mount Vesu- 
 vius in the distance, all in full command of 
 the eye, make it one of the richest land- 
 scapes in the world. 
 
 Hence, we descended to another strong 
 castle, called II Castello Nuovo, 5 which 
 protects the shore ; but they would by no 
 entreaty permit us to go in ; the outward 
 defence seems to consist but in four towers, 
 very high, and an exceeding deep graff, 
 
 1 [" Here it was that Queen Joanne 0/ Naples 
 strangled her husband A ndreasso, and was herself, 
 not long after, served so too in the same place " 
 (Lassels, ii. p. 269).] 
 
 2 [Built by Charles VI.] 
 
 3 [Capri, off the coast of Campania.] 
 
 4 [Naples was at this date under the Spaniards, 
 who held it of the Pope (see post, 8th February, 
 1645).] 5 [Built by Charles of Anjou.] 
 
92 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 with thick walls. Opposite to this is the 
 tower of St. Vincent, which is also very 
 strong. 
 
 Then we went to the very noble Palace 
 of the Viceroy, partly old, and part of a 
 newer work ; but we did not stay long 
 here. Towards the evening, we took the 
 air upon the Mole, a street on the rampart, 
 or bank, raised in the sea for security of 
 their galleys in port, built as that of Genoa. 
 Here I observed a rich fountain in the 
 middle of the piazza, and adorned with 
 divers rare statues of copper, representing 
 the Sirens, or Deities of the Parthenope, 
 spouting large streams of water into an 
 ample shell, all of cast metal, and of great 
 cost. This stands at the entrance of the 
 Mole, where we met many of the nobility 
 both on horseback and in their coaches to 
 take the fresco from the sea, as the manner 
 is, it being in the most advantageous 
 quarter for good air, delight and prospect. 
 Here we saw divers goodly horses who hand- 
 somely become their riders, the Neapolitan 
 gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces 
 in length, and paved with a square hewn 
 stone. From the. Mole, we ascend to a 
 church of great antiquity, formerly sacred 
 to, Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters 
 carved on the architrave and the busts 
 of their two statues testify. It is now 
 converted into a stately oratory by the 
 Theatines. 
 
 The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, 
 and except St. Peter's in Rome, Naples 
 exceeds all cities for stately churches and 
 monasteries. We were told that this day 
 the blood of St. Januarius and his head 
 should be exposed, and so we found it, 
 but obtained not to see the miracle of the 
 boiling of this blood. 1 The next we went 
 to see was St. Peter's, richly adorned, the 
 chapel especially, where that Apostle said 
 mass, as is testified on the wall. 
 
 After dinner, we went to St. Dominic, 
 where they showed us the crucifix that is 
 reported to have said these words to St. 
 Thomas, 2 "Bene de me scripsisti, Thoma." 
 Honce, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for 
 
 1 [S. Januarius was Bishop of Benevent and 
 Patron of Naples. Lassels describes the miracle 
 Evelyn did not see. The blood of the Saint, 
 "being conserved in a little glasse and concrete, 
 melts and growes liquid when its placed neare to 
 his Head, and even bubles in the glasse " (ii. p. 
 274).] 2 [Aquinas.] 
 
 the monument of the learned Alexander- 
 ab-Alexandro. 
 
 We proceeded, the next day, to visit the 
 church of Santa Maria Maggiore, where we 
 spent much time in surveying the chapel of 
 Joh. Jov. Pontanus, 1 and in it the several 
 and excellent sentences and epitaphs on 
 himself, wife, children, and friends, full of 
 rare wit, and worthy of recording, as we 
 find them in several writers. In the same 
 chapel is showed an arm of Titus Livius, 
 with this epigraph: " Titi Livij brachium 
 quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis im- 
 petravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos 
 post annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit." 
 
 Climbing a steep hill, we came to the 
 monastery and Church of the Carthusians,' 2 
 from whence is a most goodly prospect 
 towards the sea and city, the one full of 
 galleys and ships, the other of stately 
 palaces, churches, monasteries, castles, 
 gardens, delicious fields and meadows, 
 Mount Vesuvius smoking, the Promontory 
 of Minerva and Misenum, Caprese, Pro- 
 chyta, Ischia, Pausilippus, Puteoli, and 
 the rest, doubtless, one of the most diver- 
 tissant and considerable vistas in the world. 
 The church is most elegantly built ; the 
 very pavements of the common cloister 
 being all laid with variously polished 
 marbles, richly figured. They showed us 
 a massy cross of silver, much celebrated 
 for the workmanship and carving, and said 
 to have been fourteen years in perfecting. 
 The choir also is of rare art ; but above 
 all to be admired, is the yet unfinished 
 church of the Jesuits, certainly, if ac- 
 complished, not to be equalled in Europe. 
 Hence, we passed by the Palazzo Caraffi, 
 full of ancient and very noble statues : also 
 the Palace of the Orsini. The next day, 
 we did little but visit some friends, English 
 merchants, resident for their negotiation ; 
 only this morning at the Viceroy's Caval- 
 lerizza I saw the noblest horses that I had 
 ever beheld, one of his sons riding the 
 manege with that address and dexterity as 
 I had never seen anything approach it. 
 
 qih February. We were invited to the 
 collection of exotic rarities in the Museum 
 of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan 
 nobleman, and one of the most observable 
 palaces in the city, the repository of in- 
 
 1 [A famous lawyer, author of the Genialium 
 Durum. He died in 1523.] 2 [St. Martin's.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 93 
 
 comparable rarities. Amongst the natural 
 herbals most remarkable was the byssus 
 marina and pinna marina ; the male and 
 female chamelion; an onocrotalus ; l an 
 extraordinary great crocodile ; some of the 
 Orcades anates, held here for a great 
 rarity ; likewise a salamander ; the male 
 and female manucodiata? the male having 
 a hollow in the back, in which it is reported 
 the female both lays and hatches her eggs ; 
 the mandragoras, of both sexes ; papyrus, 
 made of several reeds, and some of silk ; 
 tables of the rinds of trees, written with 
 Japonic characters ; another of the branches 
 of palm ; many Indian fruits ; a crystal 
 that had a quantity of uncongealed water 
 within its cavity ; a petrified fisher's net ; 
 divers sorts of tarantulas, being a monstrous 
 spider, with lark-like claws, and somewhat 
 bigger. 
 
 $th February. This day we beheld the 
 Vice-king's procession, which was very 
 splendid for the relics, banners, and music 
 that accompanied the Blessed Sacrament. 
 The ceremony took up most of the morning. 
 
 6th. We went by coach to take the 
 air, and see the diversions, or rather 
 madness, of the Carnival ; the courtesans 
 (who swarm in this city to the number, 
 as we are told, of 30,000, registered and 
 paying a tax to the State) flinging eggs 
 of sweet water into our coach, as we 
 passed by the houses and windows. In- 
 deed, the town is so pestered with these 
 cattle, that there needs no small mortifi- 
 cation to preserve from their enchantment, 
 whilst they display all their natural and 
 artificial beauty, play, sing, feign compli- 
 ment, and by a thousand studied devices 
 seek to inveigle foolish young men. 
 
 *jth. The next day, being Saturday, we 
 went four miles out of town on mules, to 
 see that famous volcano, Mount Vesuvius. 
 Here we pass a fair fountain, called 
 Labulla, which continually boils, supposed 
 to proceed from Vesuvius, and thence 
 over a river and bridge, where on a large 
 upright stone, is engraven a notable inscrip- 
 tion relative to the memorable eruption in 
 1630. 3 
 
 Approaching the hill, as we. were able 
 with our mules, we alighted, crawling up 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 13.] 
 
 2 [The old name for bird of paradise. ] 
 
 3 It may be seen at length in Wright's Travels, 
 and in M. Misson's New Voyage to Italy. 
 
 the rest of the proclivity with great diffi- 
 culty, now with our feet, now with our 
 hands, not without many untoward slips 
 which did much bruise us on the various 
 coloured cinders, with which the whole 
 mountain is covered, some like pitch, 
 others full of perfect brimstone, others 
 metallic, interspersed with innumerable 
 pumices (of all which I made a collection), 
 we at the last gained the summit of an 
 extensive altitude. Turning our faces to- 
 wards Naples, it presents one of the 
 goodliest prospects in the world ; all the 
 Baize, Cumse, Elysian Fields, Caprese, 
 Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that 
 goodly city, with a great portion of *he 
 Tyrrhene Sea, offering themselves to your 
 view at once, and at so agreeable a dis- 
 tance, as nothing can be more delightful. 
 The mountain consists of a double top, 
 the one pointed very sharp, and commonly 
 appearing above any clouds, the other 
 blunt. Here, as we approached, we met 
 many large gaping clefts and chasms, out 
 of which issued such sulphureous blasts 
 and smoke, that we durst not stand long 
 near them. Having gained the very sum- 
 mit, I laid myself down to look over into 
 that most frightful and terrible vorago, 1 a 
 stupendous pit of near three miles in cir- 
 cuit, and half a mile in depth, by a 
 perpendicular hollow cliff (like that from 
 the highest part of Dover Castle), with 
 now and then a craggy prominency jetting 
 out. The area at the bottom is plane, like 
 an even floor, which seems to be made by 
 the wind circling the ashes by its eddy 
 blasts. In the middle and centre is a hill, 
 shaped like a great brown loaf, appearing 
 to consist of sulphureous matter, continu- 
 ally vomiting a foggy exhalation, and 
 ejecting huge stones with an impetuous 
 noise and roaring, like the report of many 
 muskets discharging. This horrid bara- 
 thrum 2 engaged our attention for some 
 hours, both for the strangeness of the 
 spectacle, and the mention which the old 
 histories make of it, as one of the most 
 stupendous curiosities in nature, and which 
 made the learned and inquisitive Pliny 
 adventure his life to detect the causes, and 
 to lose it in too desperate an approach. 3 
 
 1 [Crater, abyss.] 2 [Gulf, abyss.] 
 
 3 [He died 24th August, a.d. 79, during the 
 
 eruption of Vesuvius, which overwhelmed Pompeii 
 
 and Herculaneum.] 
 
94 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 It is likewise famous for the stratagem of 
 the rebel, Spartacus, who did so much 
 mischief to the State, lurking amongst and 
 protected by, these horrid caverns, when 
 it was more accessible and less dangerous 
 than it is now ; but especially notorious 
 it is for the last conflagration, when, in 
 anno 1630, 1 it burst out beyond what it 
 had ever done in the memory of history ; 
 throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices 
 in such quantity, as not only environed the 
 whole mountain, but totally buried and 
 overwhelmed divers towns and their in-» 
 habitants, scattering the ashes more than 
 a hundred miles, and utterly devastating 
 all those vineyards, where formerly grew 
 the most incomparable Greco ; when, 
 bursting through the bowels of the earth, 
 it absorbed the very sea, and, with its 
 whirling waters, drew in divers galleys 
 and other vessels to their destruction, as 
 is faithfully recorded. We descended with 
 more ease than we climbed up, through a 
 deep valley of pure ashes, which at the 
 late eruption was a flowing river of melted 
 and burning brimstone, and so came to 
 our mules at the foot of the mountain. 
 
 On Sunday, we with our guide visited 
 the so much celebrated Baize, and natural 
 rarities of the places adjacent. Here we 
 entered the mountain Pausilippus, at the 
 left hand of which they showed us Virgil's 
 sepulchre erected on a steep rock, in form 
 of a small rotunda or cupolated column, 
 but almost overgrown with bushes and 
 wild bay trees. At the entrance is this 
 inscription : 
 
 Stanisi Cencovius. 
 
 1589- \ . 
 
 Qui cineres? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura Duces. 
 Can. Ree MDLIII.3 
 
 After we were advanced into this noble 
 and altogether wonderful crypt, consisting 
 of a passage spacious enough for two 
 coaches to go abreast, cut through a rocky 
 
 1 [1631 (17th December) when Torre del Greco 
 and 4000 persons were destroyed. ] 
 
 2 Such is the inscription, as copied by Evelyn ; 
 but as its sense is not very clear, and as the Diary 
 contains instances of incorrectness in transcribing, 
 it may be desirable to subjoin the distich said (by 
 Keysler in his Travels) to be the only one in the 
 whole mausoleum : 
 
 Qua2 cineris tumulo haec vestigia? conditur olim 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces. 
 
 mountain near three-quarters of a mile 1 
 (by the ancient Cimmerii as reported, but 
 as others say by L. Cocceius, who employed 
 a hundred thousand men on it), we came 
 to the midway, where there is a well bored 
 through the diameter of this vast mountain, 
 which admits the light into a pretty chapel, 
 hewn out of the natural rock, wherein hang 
 divers lamps, perpetually burning. The 
 way is paved under foot ; but it does not 
 hinder the dust, which rises so excessively 
 in this much-frequented passage, that we 
 were forced at mid-day to use a torch. At 
 length, we were delivered from the bowels 
 of the earth into one of the most delicious 
 plains in the world : the oranges, lemons, 
 pomegranates, and other fruits, blushing 
 yet on the perpetually green trees ; for the 
 summer is here eternal, caused by the 
 natural and adventitious heat of the earth, 
 warmed through the subterranean fires, as 
 was shown us by our guide, who alighted, 
 and cutting up a turf with his knife, and 
 delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was 
 hardly able to hold it in my hands. This 
 mountain is exceedingly fruitful in vines, 
 and exotics grow readily. 
 
 We now came to a lake of about two 
 miles in circumference, environed with 
 hills ; the water of it is fresh and sweet on 
 the surface, but salt at bottom ; some 
 mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, 
 and it is reported of that profunditude in 
 the middle that it is bottomless. The 
 people call it Lago d' Agnano, from the 
 multitude of serpents which, involved 
 together about the spring, fall down from 
 the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, 
 nor will any live in it. We tried the old 
 experiment on a dog in the Grotto del 
 Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above 
 three or four paces deep, and about the 
 height of a man, nor very broad. What- 
 ever having life enters it, presently expires. 
 Of this we made trial with two dogs, one 
 of which we bound to a short pole to guide 
 
 1 [" If a Man would form to himself a just Idea 
 of this Place, he must fancy a vast Rock under- 
 mined from one End to the other, and a Highway 
 running thro' it, near as long and as broad as the 
 Mail in St. James's Park. . . . Towards the 
 middle are Two large Funnels, bor'd thro' the 
 Roof of the Mountain, to let in Light and fresh 
 Air " (Addison, Remarks on Italy, 1705, p. 217). 
 The "Mail" of King Edward VII., it may be 
 observed, is much broader than it was in Addison's 
 days.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 95 
 
 ' him the more directly into the further part 
 ^ of the den, where he was no sooner entered 
 but — without the least noise, or so much 
 as a struggle, except that he panted for 
 breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes 
 being fixed — we drew him out dead to all 
 appearance ; but immediately plunging him 
 into the adjoining lake, within less than 
 half an hour he recovered, and swimming 
 to shore, ran away from us. We tried the 
 same on another dog, without the applica- 
 tion of the water, and left him quite dead. 
 The experiment has been made on men, as 
 on that poor creature whom Peter of Toledo 
 caused to go in ; likewise on some Turkish 
 slaves ; two soldiers, and other fool-hardy 
 persons, who all perished, 1 and could never 
 be recovered by the water of the lake, as 
 are dogs ; for which many learned reasons 
 have 'been offered, as Simon Majolus in his 
 book of the Canicular-days has mentioned, 
 colloq. 15. And certainly the most likely 
 is, the effect of those hot and dry vapours 
 which ascend out of the earth, and are con- 
 densed by the ambient cold, as appears by 
 their converting into crystalline drops on 
 the top, whilst at the bottom it is so ex- 
 cessively hot, that a torch being extinguished 
 near it, and lifted a little distance, was 
 suddenly re-lighted. 2 
 
 Near to this cave are the natural stoves 
 of St. Germain, 3 of the nature of sudatories, 
 in certain chambers partitioned with stone 
 for the sick to sweat in, the vapours here 
 being exceedingly hot, and of admirable 
 success in the gout, and other cold dis- 
 tempers of the nerves. Hence, we climbed 
 up a hill, the very highway in several 
 places even smoking with heat like a 
 furnace. The mountains were by the 
 
 1 [Edward Browne, nineteen years later, seems 
 to have narrowly escaped the fate of the fool- 
 hardy. "I went into the grot myselfe, and 
 findeing no inconvenience from those poysonous 
 exhalations, either by standing or putting my hand 
 to the place where the dog died, I was about to 
 put my head to it allso ; when, to the hindrance of 
 my satisfaction in this point, my companions and 
 the guide furiously tore me out of the grot, and I 
 think, without some persuasione, would have 
 throwne me into the lake also " (Sir Thomas 
 Browne's Works, 1836, i. 78).] 
 
 2 [Addison devotes several pages of his Remarks 
 on Italy to this famous Grotto (pp. 230-34), and he 
 mentions that a Dr. Connor made a Discourse 
 in one of the Academies at Rome upon the 
 subject.] 
 
 3 [Gennaro.] 
 
 Greeks called Leucogaei, and the fields 
 Phlegrsean. Hercules here vanquished the 
 Giants, assisted with lightning. We now 
 came to the Court of Vulcan, 1 consisting 
 of a valley near a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, the margent environed with steep 
 cliffs, out of whose sides and foot break 
 forth fire and smoke in abundance, making 
 a noise like a tempest of water, and some- 
 times discharging in loud reports, like so 
 many guns. The heat of this place is 
 wonderful, the earth itself being almost 
 insufferable, and which the subterranean 
 fires have made so hollow, by having 
 wasted the matter for so many years, that 
 it sounds like a drum to those who walk 
 upon it ; and the water thus struggling 
 with those fires, bubbles and spouts aloft 
 into the air. The mouths of these spiracles 
 are bestrewed with variously coloured 
 cinders, which rise with the vapour, as 
 do many coloured stones, according to the 
 quality of the combustible matter, inso- 
 much as it is no little adventure to approach 
 them. They are, however, daily frequented 
 both by sick and well ; the former receiv- 
 ing the fumes, have been recovered of 
 diseases esteemed incurable. Here we 
 found a great deal of sulphur made, which 
 they refine in certain houses near the 
 place, casting it into canes, to a very 
 great value. Near this we were showed 
 a hill of alum, where is one of the best 
 mineries, yielding a considerable revenue. 
 Some flowers of brass are found here ; but 
 I could not but smile at those who persuade 
 themselves that here are the gates of 
 purgatory (for which it may be they have 
 erected, very near it, a convent, and 
 named it St. Januarius), 2 reporting to have 
 often heard screeches and horrible lamenta- 
 tions proceeding from these caverns and 
 volcanoes ; with other legends of birds 
 that are never seen, save on Sundays, 
 which cast themselves into the lake at 
 night, appearing no more all the week 
 after. 
 
 We now approached the ruins of a very 
 stately temple, or theatre, of 172 feet in 
 length, and about 80 in breadth, thrown 
 down by an earthquake, not long since ; 
 it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under 
 
 1 [The Sulphatara ; or Forum Vulcani.] 
 
 a [Lasselssays that the Convent of the Capuchins 
 
 stands where S. Januarius was beheaded (ii. p. 
 
 295-J 
 
9 6 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1645 
 
 the ground are many strange meanders ; 
 from which it is named the Labyrinth ; 
 this place is so haunted with bats, that 
 their perpetual fluttering endangered the 
 putting out our links. 
 
 Hence, we passed again those boiling 
 and smoking hills, till we came to Pozzuoli, 
 formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing- 
 place of St. Paul, when he came into Italy, 
 after the tempest described in the Acts of 
 the Apostles. Here we made a good 
 dinner, and bought divers medals, anti- 
 quities, and other curiosities, of the country- 
 people, who daily find such things amongst 
 the very old ruins of those places. This 
 town was formerly a Greek colony, built 
 by the Samians, a reasonable commodious 
 port, and full of observable antiquities. 
 We saw the ruins of Neptune's Temple, to 
 whom this place was sacred, and near it 
 the stately Palace and gardens of Peter de 
 Toledo, formerly mentioned. l Afterwards, 
 we visited that admirably built Temple of 
 Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out 
 of an entire rock, though indeed consisting 
 of several square stones. The inscription 
 remains thus : " L. Calphurnius L. E. 
 Templum Augusto cumornamentisD.D." ; 
 and under it, " L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi 
 L. Auctus Architectus. " It is now converted 
 into a church, in which they showed us 
 huge bones, which they affirm to have been 
 of some giant. 
 
 We went to see the ruins of the old 
 haven, so compact with that bituminous 
 sand in which the materials are laid, as the 
 like is hardly to be found, though all this 
 has not been sufficient to protect it from 
 the fatal concussions of several earthquakes 
 (frequent here) which have almost de- 
 molished it, thirteen vast piles of marble 
 only remaining ; a stupendous work in the 
 bosom of Neptune ! To this joins the 
 bridge of Caligula, by which (having now 
 embarked ourselves) we sailed to the 
 pleasant Baire, almost four miles in length, 
 all which way that proud Emperor would 
 pass in triumph. Here we rowed along 
 towards a villa of the orator Cicero's, where 
 we were showed the ruins of his Academy ; 
 and, at the foot of a rock, his Baths, the 
 waters reciprocating their tides with the 
 neighbouring sea. Hard at hand, rises 
 Mount Gaurus, being, as I conceived, 
 l [See ante, p. 95.] 
 
 nothing save a heap of pumices, which here 
 float in abundance on the sea, exhausted 
 of all inflammable matter by the fire, which 
 renders them light and porous, so as the 
 beds of nitre, which lie deep under them, 
 having taken fire, do easily eject them. 
 They dig much for fancied treasure said to 
 be concealed about this place. From 
 hence, we coasted near the ruins of Portus 
 Julius, where we might see divers stately 
 palaces that had been swallowed up by the 
 sea after earthquakes. Coming to shore, 
 we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous 
 heretofore for its delicious oysters, now 
 producing few or none, being divided from 
 the sea by a bank of incredible labour, the 
 supposed work of Hercules ; it is now hall 
 choked up with rubbish, and by part of 
 the new mountain, which rose partly out 
 of it, and partly out of the sea, and that 
 in the space of one night and a day, to a 
 very great altitude, on the 29th Septem- 
 ber, 1538, after many terrible earthquakes, 
 which ruined divers places thereabout, when 
 at midnight the sea retiring near 200 paces, 
 and yawning on the sudden, it continued to 
 vomit forth flames and fiery stones in such 
 quantity, as produced this whole mountain 
 by their fall, making the inhabitants of 
 Pozzuoli to leave their habitations, suppos- 
 ing the end of the world had been come. 
 
 From the left part of this, we walked to 
 the Lake Avernus, of a round form, and 
 totally environed with mountains. This 
 lake was feigned by the poet for the gates 
 of hell, by which ^neas made his descent, 
 and where he sacrificed to Pluto and the 
 Manes. The waters are of a remarkably 
 black colour ; but I tasted of them without 
 danger ; hence they feign that the river 
 Styx has its source. At one side, stand 
 the handsome ruins of a Temple dedicated 
 to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is con- 
 troverted. Opposite to this, having new 
 lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, 
 in which having gone about two hundred 
 paces, we pass a narrow entry which leads 
 us into a room of about ten paces long, 
 proportionable broad and high ; the side 
 walls and roof retain still the golden mosaic, 
 though now exceedingly decayed by time. 
 Here is a short cell or rather niche, cut out 
 of the solid rock, somewhat resembling a 
 couch, in which they report that the Sibylla 
 lay, and uttered her Oracles ; but it is 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 97 
 
 supposed by most to have been a bath only. 
 This subterranean grot leads quite through 
 to Cumse, but is in some places obstructed 
 by the earth which has sunk in, so as we 
 were constrained back again, and to creep 
 on our bellies, before we came to the light. 
 It is reported Nero had once resolved to 
 cut a channel for two great galleys that 
 should have extended to Ostia, 150 miles 
 distant. The people now call it Licola. 
 
 From hence, we ascended to that most 
 ancient city of Italy, the renowned Cumae, 
 built by the Grecians. It stands on a 
 very eminent promontory, but is now a 
 heap of ruins. A little below, stands the 
 Arco Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's 
 Temple, with the foundations of divers 
 goodly buildings ; amongst whose heaps 
 are frequently found statues and other 
 antiquities, by such as dig for them. Near 
 this is the Lake Acherusia, and Acheron. 
 Returning to the shore, we came to the 
 Bagni de Tritoli and Diana, which are only 
 long narrow passages cut through the main 
 rock, where the vapours ascend so hot, 
 that entering with the body erect you will 
 even faint with excessive perspiration ; but, 
 stooping lower, as sudden a cold surprises. 
 These sudatories are much in request for 
 many infirmities. Now we entered the 
 haven of the Baias, where once stood that 
 famous town, so called from the companion 
 of Ulysses here buried ; not without great 
 reason celebrated for one of the most 
 delicious places that the sun shines on, 
 according to that of Horace : 
 
 Nullus in orbe sinus Baiis praelucet amoenis. 1 
 
 Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now 
 remain little save the ruins, whereof the 
 most entire is that of Diana's Temple, and 
 another of Venus. Here were those famous 
 pools of lampreys that would come to hand 
 when called by name, as Martial tells us. 2 
 On the summit of the rock stands a strong 
 castle garrisoned to protect the shore from 
 Turkish pirates. It was once the retiring- 
 place of Julius Caesar. 
 
 1 [Horace, Ep. i. x. 1. 83- 1 
 
 2 [Book iv. Ep. 30 — Ad Piscatorem. Izaak 
 Walton, who translates this in part in the Complete 
 Angler ("The Fourth Day"), further cites Pliny 
 (through Hakewill) to the effect that "one of the 
 emperors had particular fish-ponds, and, in them, 
 several fish that appeared and came when they 
 were called by their particular names."] 
 
 Passing by the shore again, we entered 
 Bauli, 1 observable from the monstrous 
 murder of Nero committed on his mother 
 Agrippina. Her sepulchre was yet showed 
 us in the rock, which we entered, being 
 covered with sundry heads and figures of 
 beasts. We saw there the roots of a tree 
 turned into stone, and are continually 
 dropping. 
 
 Thus having viewed the foundations of 
 the old Cimmeria, the palaces of Marius, 
 Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other 
 villas and antiquities, we proceeded to- 
 wards the promontory of Misenus, renowned 
 for the sepulchre of ^Eneas's Trumpeter. 
 It was once a great city, now hardly a ruin, 
 said to have been built from this place to 
 the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles dis- 
 tant, now discontinued and demolished by 
 the frequent earthquakes. Here was the 
 villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Caesar 
 died ; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought 
 to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, 
 heretofore nobly arched with marble, as 
 the ruins testify. Hence, we walked to 
 those receptacles of water called Piscina 
 Mirabilis, being a vault of 500 feet long, 
 and twenty - two in breadth, the roof 
 propped up with four ranks of square 
 pillars, twelve in a row ; the walls are 
 brick, plastered over with such a composi- 
 tion as for strength and politure resembles 
 white marble. 'Tis conceived to have 
 been built by Nero, as a conservatory for 
 fresh water ; as were also the Cento 
 Camerelle, into which we were next led. 
 All these crypta being now almost sunk 
 into the earth, show yet their former 
 amplitude and magnificence. 
 
 Returning towards the Baiae, we again 
 pass the Elysian Fields, so celebrated by 
 the poets, not unworthily, for the situation 
 and verdure, being full of myrtles and 
 sweet shrubs, and having a most delightful 
 prospect towards the Tyrrhene Sea. Upon 
 the verge of these remain the ruins of the 
 Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus ; 
 over the arches stand divers urns, full of 
 Roman ashes. 
 
 Having well satisfied our curiosity among 
 these antiquities, we retired to our felucca, 
 which rowed us back again towards Poz- 
 zuoli, at the very place of St. Paul's land- 
 ing. Keeping along the shore, they showed 
 
 1 [Now Bacolo.] 
 
 H 
 
9 8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 us a place where the sea-water and sands 
 did exceedingly boil. Thence, to the 
 island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; 
 and thus we leave the Baise, so renowned 
 for the sweet retirements of the most 
 opulent and voluptuous Romans. They 
 certainly were places of uncommon amenity, 
 as their yet tempting site, and other circum- 
 stances of natural curiosities, easily invite 
 me to believe, since there is not in the 
 world so many stupendous rarities to be 
 met with, as in the circle of a few miles 
 which environ these blissful abodes. 
 
 Zth February. Returned to Naples, we 
 went to see the Arsenal, well furnished 
 with galleys and other vessels. The city 
 is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen 
 and merchants. The government is held 
 of the Pope by an annual tribute of 40,000 
 ducats and a white jennet ; but the 
 Spaniard trusts more to th£ power of those 
 his natural subjects there ; Apulia and 
 Calabria yielding him near four millions of 
 crowns yearly to maintain it. The country 
 is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty 
 Archbishops, and one hundred and seven 
 Bishops ; the estates of the nobility, in 
 default of the male line, reverting to the 
 King. Besides the Vice- Roy, there are 
 amongst the Chief Magistrates a High 
 Constable, Admiral, Chief Justice, Great 
 Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a 
 Secretary ; these being prodigiously avari- 
 cious, do wonderfully enrich themselves 
 out of the miserable people's labour, silks, 
 manna, sugar, oil, wine, rice, sulphur, and 
 alum ; for with all these riches is this 
 delicious country blest. The manna falls 
 at certain seasons on the adjoining hills in 
 form of a thick dew. The very winter 
 here is a summer, ever fruitful, so that in 
 the middle of February we had melons, 
 cherries, apricots, and many other sorts of 
 fruit. 
 
 The building of the city is for the size 
 the most magnificent of any in Europe, the 
 streets exceeding large, well -paved, having 
 many vaults and conveyances under them 
 for the sulliage ; which renders them very 
 sweet and clean, even in the midst of 
 winter. To it belongeth more than 3000 
 churches and monasteries, and these the 
 best built and adorned of any in Italy. 
 They greatly affect the Spanish gravity in 
 .their habit ; delight in good horses ; the 
 
 streets are full of gallants on horseback, in 
 coaches and sedans, from hence brought 
 first into England by Sir Sanders Dun- 
 combe. 1 The women are generally well- 
 featured, but excessively libidinous. The 
 country people so jovial and addicted to 
 music, that the very husbandmen almost 
 universally play on the guitar, singing and 
 composing songs in praise of their sweet- 
 hearts, and will commonly go to the field 
 with their fiddle ; they are merry, witty, 
 and genial ; all which I much attribute to 
 the excellent quality of the air. They 
 have a deadly hatred to the French, so 
 that some of our company were flouted at 
 for wearing red cloaks, as the mode then 
 was. 
 
 This I made the non ultra of my travels, 
 sufficiently sated with rolling up and down, 
 and resolving within myself to be no longer 
 an individuum vagum^ if ever I got home 
 again ; since from the report of divers 
 experienced and curious persons, I had 
 been assured there was little more to be 
 seen in the rest of the civil world, after 
 Italy, France, Flanders, and the Low 
 Countries, but plain and prodigious 
 barbarism. 
 
 Thus, about the 7th of February, 2 we 
 set out on our return to Rome by the same 
 way we came, not daring to adventure by 
 sea, as some of our company were inclined 
 to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering 
 on that coast ; nor made we any stay save 
 at Albano, to view the celebrated place 
 and sepulchre of the famous duellists who 
 decided the ancient quarrel between their 
 imperious neighbours with the loss of their 
 lives. These brothers, the Horatii and 
 Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, 
 under two ancient pyramids of stone, now 
 somewhat decayed and overgrown with 
 rubbish. We took the opportunity of 
 tasting the wine here, which is famous. 
 
 Being arrived at Rome on the 13th 
 
 1 [This is an error. The first user of the sedan- 
 chair was George Villiers, first Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, to whom Prince Charles (afterwards Charles 
 I.) gave two out of three which had been presented 
 to him by the Spanish Prime Minister, the Duke 
 of Olivares. Sir Sanders Duncombe (see ante, 
 p. 5) only popularised them ("Memoirs of the 
 Sedan Chair," by J. Holden Macmichael, Gentle- 
 man's Magazine, October 1904, p. 402).] 
 
 2 Evelyn's dates in this portion of his Diary- 
 remarks Forster — appear to require occasionally 
 that qualification of about." 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 99 
 
 February, we were again invited to Signor 
 Angeloni's study, 1 where with greater 
 leisure we surveyed the rarities, as his 
 cabinet and medals especially, esteemed 
 one of the best collections of them in 
 Europe. He also showed us two antique 
 lamps, one of them dedicated to Pallas, 
 the other Laribus Sacrti ', as appeared by 
 their inscriptions ; some old Roman rings 
 and keys ; the Egyptian Isis, cast in iron ; 
 sundry rare basso-rilievos ; good pieces of 
 painting, principally the Christ of Cor- 
 reggio, with this painter's own face 
 admirably done by himself; divers of 
 both the Bassanos ; a great number of 
 pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs ; 
 an infinity of natural rarities, dried animals, 
 Indian habits and weapons, shells, etc. ; 
 divers very antique statues of brass ; some 
 lamps of so fine an earth that they re- 
 sembled cornelians, for transparency and 
 colour ; hinges of Corinthian brass, and 
 one great nail of the same metal found in 
 the ruins of Nero's golden house. 
 
 In the afternoon, we ferried over to 
 Trastevere, to the Palace of Chigi, 2 to 
 review the works of Raphael : and, return- 
 ing by St. Angelo, we saw the castle as far 
 as was permitted, and on the other side 
 considered those admirable pilasters sup- 
 posed to be of the foundation of the Pons 
 Sublicius, over which Horatius Codes 
 passed ; here anchor three or four water- 
 mills, invented by Belizarius : and thence 
 had another sight of the Farnese's gardens, 
 and of the terrace where is that admirable 
 painting of Raphael, being a Cupid play- 
 ing with a Dolphin, wrought a fresco, 
 preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well 
 it merits, being certainly one of the most 
 wonderful pieces of work in the world. 
 
 14M February. I went to Santa Cecilia, 
 a church built and endowed by Cardinal 
 Sfondi ato, who has erected a stately altar 
 near the body of this .martyr, not long 
 before found in a vesture of silk girt about, 
 a veil on her head, and the bloody scars of 
 three wounds on the neck ; the body is 
 now in a silver chest, with her statue over 
 it, in snow-white marble. 3 Other Saints 
 
 3 Ante, p. 68. 
 
 2 Ante, p. 83. [Now the Farnesina.] 
 
 3 [The silver shrine was the gift of Clement 
 VIII., who was said to have been cured of the 
 gout by St. Cecilia's intercession. The Parian 
 
 lie here, decorated with splendid orna- 
 ments, lamps, and incensories of great 
 cost. A little farther, they show us the 
 Bath of St. Cecilia, to which joins a Con- 
 vent of Friars, where is the picture of the 
 Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns 
 of the portico, taken from the Baths of 
 Septimius Severus. 
 
 l$th. Mr Henshaw 1 and I walked 
 by the Tiber, and visited the Isola 
 Tiberina (now St. Bartholomew's), for- 
 merly cut in the shape of a ship, and 
 wharfed with marble, in which a lofty 
 obelisk represented the mast. 2 In the 
 Church of St. Bartholomew is the body 
 of the Apostle. Here are the ruins of the 
 Temple of ^Esculapius, now converted into 
 a stately hospital and a pretty convent. 
 Opposite to it, is the convent and church 
 of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing 
 remarkable, save an old broken altar. 
 Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. 
 Hence, we went to a cupola, now a church, 
 formerly dedicated to the sun. Opposite 
 to it, Santa Maria Schola Grseca, where 
 formerly that tongue was taught ; said to 
 be the second church dedicated in Rome 
 to the Blessed Virgin ; bearing also the 
 title of a Cardinalate. Behind this stands 
 the great altar of Hercules, much de- 
 molished. Near this, being at the foot of 
 Mount Aventine, are the Pope's salt- 
 houses. 3 Ascending the hill, we came to 
 St. Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly 
 sacred to Diana ; there, in a chapel, is 
 an admirable picture, the work of Livia 
 Fontana, 4 set about with columns of 
 alabaster, and in the middle of the church 
 is a stone, cast, as they report, by the 
 Devil at St. Dominic, whilst he was at 
 mass. 5 Hence, we travelled towards a 
 
 marble statue was the work of Stephano Maderno 
 (Keysler, ii. p. 173).] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 56.] 
 
 2 [The Basilica and Convent of S. Bartolommeo 
 occupy the western end of the island, and give it 
 its name. "The remains which exist are not of 
 sufficient size to bear out the assertion often made 
 that the whole island was enclosed in the travertine 
 form of a ship, of which the north-western end 
 formed the prow and the small obelisk the mast" 
 (Hare's Walks in Rome, by St. Clair Baddeley, 
 1905, 587).] 
 
 3 [The Salince existed until 1888.] 
 
 4 [Lavinia Fontana ; see ante, p. 87.] _ 
 
 5 Having (according to Keysler, ii. p. 317) 
 previously "missed his throw" at the Three Kings 
 of Cologne. ] 
 
100 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 heap of rubbish, called the Marmorata, on 
 the bank of the Tiber, a magazine of 
 stones ; and near which formerly stood a 
 triumphal arch, in honour of Horatius 
 vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins of 
 the bridge yet appear. 
 
 We were now got to Mons Testaceus, a 
 heap of potsherds, almost 200 feet high, 1 
 thought to have been thrown there and 
 amassed by the subjects of the Common- 
 wealth bringing their tribute in earthen 
 vessels, others (more probably) that it 
 was a quarter of the town where potters 
 lived ; at the summit Rome affords a noble 
 prospect. Before it is a spacious green, 
 called the Hippodrome, where Olympic 
 games were celebrated, and the people 
 mustered, as in our London Artillery- 
 Ground. 2 Going hence, to the old wall of 
 the city, we much admired the pyramid, or 
 tomb, of Caius Cestius, of white marble, 
 one of the most ancient entire monuments, 
 inserted in the wall, with this inscription : 
 
 C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order 
 of priests) Pr. Tr. pi. VII. Vir. Epulonum. 
 
 And a little beneath : 
 
 Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus 
 CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. F. Cla. 
 Melae Heredis et Pothi L. 
 
 At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, 
 once Tergemina, out of which the three 
 Horatii passed to encounter the Curiatii of 
 Albano. Hence, bending homewards by 
 St. Sabba, by Antoninus's Baths (which 
 we entered), is the marble sepulchre of 
 Vespasian. The thickness of the walls 
 and stately ruins show the enormous magni- 
 tude of these baths. Passing by a corner 
 of the Circus Maximus, we viewed the place 
 where stood the Septizonium, demolished 
 by Sixtus V. , for fear of its falling. Going 
 by Mons Cselius, we beheld the devotions 
 of St. Maria in Navicula, so named from a 
 ship carved out in white marble standing 
 on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the 
 
 1 [The Monte Testaccio is not more than 160 
 feet high. "It has been artificially formed by 
 shards of amphorae, conveying corn and wine to 
 Rome from Spain and Africa, landed near this, 
 and broken in unloading, between 140 and 251 a.d." 
 (Hare's Walks in Rome, by St. Clair Baddeley, 
 1905, 612).] 
 
 2 [At Finsbury.] 
 
 vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It 
 has a glorious front to the street. Adjoin- 
 ing to this are the Horti Mathaei, which 
 only of all the places about the city I 
 omitted visiting, though I was told inferior 
 to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient 
 monuments, aviaries, fountains, groves, and 
 especially a noble obelisk, and maintained 
 in beauty at an expense of 6000 crowns 
 yearly, which, if not expended to keep up 
 its beauty, forfeits the possession of a 
 greater revenue to another family : so curi- 
 ous are they in their villas and places of 
 pleasure, even to excess. 
 
 The next day, we went to the once 
 famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst of 
 which there now lay prostrate one of the 
 most stately and ancient obelisks, full of 
 Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken 
 into four pieces, when overthrown by the 
 barbarians, and would have been purchased 
 and transported into England by the mag- 
 nificent Thomas Earl of Arundel, could it 
 have been well removed to the sea. This 
 is since set together and placed on the 
 stupendous artificial rock made by Innocent 
 X., and serving for a fountain in Piazza 
 Navona, the work of Bernini, the Pope's 
 architect. Near this is the sepulchre of 
 Metellus, of massy stone, pretty entire, 
 now called Capo di Bove. Hence, to a 
 small oratory, named Domine, quo vadis; 
 where the tradition is, that our Blessed 
 Saviour met St. Peter as he fled, and 
 turned him back again. 
 
 St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean 
 structure (the facciata excepted), but is 
 venerable, especially for the relics and 
 grots, in which lie the ashes of many holy 
 men. Here is kept the pontifical chair 
 sprinkled with the blood of Pope Stepheny 
 to which great devotion is paid ; also a 
 well full of martyrs' bones, and the sepul- 
 chre of St. Sebastian, with one of the 
 arrows (used in shooting him). These are 
 preserved by the Fulgentine Monks, who 
 have their monastery, and who led us down 
 into a grotto which they affirmed went 
 divers furlongs under ground ; the sides or 
 walls which we passed were filled with 
 bones and dead bodies, laid (as it were) on 
 shelves, whereof some were shut up with 
 broad stones, and now and then a cross, or 
 a palm, cut in them. At the end of some 
 of these subterranean passages, were square 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 lot 
 
 rooms with altars in them, said to have 
 been the receptacles of primitive Christians, 
 in the times of persecution, nor seems it 
 improbable. 
 
 ijtk February. I was invited, after 
 dinner, to the academy of the Humorists, 1 
 kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signor 
 Mancini, where the wits of the towns meet 
 on certain days to recite poems, and debate 
 on several subjects. The first that speaks 
 is called the Lord, and stands in an emi- 
 nent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi 
 recite in order. By these ingenious exer- 
 cises, besides the learned discourses, is the 
 purity of the Italian tongue daily improved. 
 The room is hung round with devices, or 
 emblems, with mottoes under them. There 
 are several other Academies of this nature, 
 bearing like fantastical titles. 2 In this of 
 the Humorists is the picture of Guarini, 
 the famous author of the Pastor Fido, once 
 of this society. 3 The chief part of the day 
 we spent in hearing the academic exercises. 
 
 \%th. We walked to St. Nicholas in 
 Carcere ; it has a fair front, and within 
 are parts of the bodies of St. Mark and 
 Marcellino ; on the Tribuna is a painting 
 of Gentileschi, and the altar of Cava! ; 
 Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. 
 Coming round from hence, we passed by 
 the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, 
 now totally in ruins. In the afternoon, 
 we visited the English Jesuits, with 
 whose Superior, P. Stafford, I was well 
 acquainted ; who received us courteously. 4 
 They call their church and college S. 
 Tommaso degli Inglesi, and is a seminary. 
 Amongst other trifles, they show the relics 
 of Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paint- 
 ings there is one of Durante, and many 
 representing the sufferings of several of their 
 society executed in England, especially E. 
 Campion. 5 
 
 In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. 
 
 1 [Evelyn refers to the Humoristi in a letter to 
 Pepys of 12th August, 1689.] 
 
 ■ [I.e. Delia Crusca, Svogliati (Florence), Incog- 
 niti (Venice), Elevati (Ferrara), Otiosi (Bologna), 
 Recoverati and Inflammati (Padua), Olympici 
 (Vicenza), Nascosti (Milan), Insensati, Abbandonati, 
 Arcadi, Confusi, etc. Milton attended the meet- 
 ings of the Svogliati in 1638 and 1639, and wrote 
 some Italian poems for them (Pattison's Milton, 
 
 l8 79> PP. 35. 39>-3 „ . . . _ 
 
 3 [John Baptist Guarini, 1537-1612.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 83.] 
 
 i 5 [Edmund Campion, executed December, 1581.] 
 
 Trinita, I had seen the feet of many pilgrims 
 washed by Princes, Cardinals, and noble 
 Romans, 1 and served at table, as the 
 ladies and noble women did to other poor 
 creatures in another room. It was told us 
 that no less t,han 444,000 men had been 
 thus treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 
 25, 500 women, as appears by the register, 
 which brings store of money. 
 
 Returning homeward, I saw the Palace 
 of Cardinal Spada, 2 where is a most mag- 
 nificent hall painted by Daniel de Volterra 
 and Giulio Piacentino, who made the fret in 
 the little Court ; but the rare perspectives 
 are of Bolognesi. Near this is the Mont 
 Pieta, instituted as a bank for the poor, 
 who, if the sum be not great, may have 
 money upon pawns. To this joins St. 
 Martino, to which belongs a Schola, or 
 Corporation, that do many works of charity. 
 Hence, we came through Campo de' Fiori, 
 or herb-market, in the midst of which is a 
 fountain casting out water of a dolphin, in 
 copper ; and in this piazza is common 
 execution done. 
 
 19th. I went, this afternoon, to visit 
 my Lord John Somerset, brother to the 
 Marquis of Worcester, 3 who had his apart- 
 ment in Palazzo della Cancellaria, belong- 
 ing to Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as 
 Vice-chancellor of the Church of Rome, 
 and Protector of the English. 4 The build- 
 ing is of the famous architect, Bramante, 
 of incrusted marble, with four ranks of 
 noble lights ; the principal entrance is of 
 Fontana's design, and all marble ; the 
 portico within sustained by massy columns ; 
 on the second peristyle above, the chambers 
 are rarely painted by Salviati and Vasari ; 
 and so ample is this Palace, that six princes 
 with their families have been received in it 
 at one time, without incommoding each 
 other. 
 
 20th. I went as was my usual custom 
 and spent an afternoon in Piazza Navona, 
 as well as to see what antiquities I could 
 purchase among the people who hold 
 market there for medals, pictures, and such 
 curiosities, as to hear the mountebanks 
 prate, and distribute their medicines. This 
 
 1 [Wilkie made this ceremony the subject of two 
 
 Pictures, — one of which was entitled "Cardinals, 
 riests, and Roman Citizens washing the Pilgrims' 
 Feet."] 
 
 2 [Now the Court of Cassation.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 63.] 4 [See ante, p. 77.] 
 
102 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 was formerly the Circus Agonalis, dedi- 
 cated to sports and pastimes, and is now 
 the greatest market of the city, having 
 three most noble fountains, and the stately 
 palaces of the Pamfilii, S. Giacomo degli 
 Spagnuoli belonging to that nation, to 
 which add two convents for Friars and 
 Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was 
 erected a most stately catafalco, or Capella 
 ardente, for the death of the Queen of 
 Spain ; the church was hung with black, 
 and here I heard a Spanish sermon, or 
 funebral oration, and observed the statues, 
 devices, and impresses hung about the 
 walls, the church and pyramid stuck with 
 thousands of lights and tapers, which made 
 a glorious show. The statue of St. James 
 is by Sansovino. ; there are also some good 
 pictures of Caracci. The facciata, too, is 
 fair. Returning home, I passed b^ the 
 stumps of old Pasquin, at the corner of a 
 street, called Strada Pontificia ; here they 
 still paste up their drolling lampoons and 
 scurrilous papers. 1 This had formerly been 
 one of the best statues for workmanship 
 and art in all the city, as the remaining 
 bust does still show. 
 
 21st February. I walked in the morning 
 up the hill towards the Capuchins, where 
 was then Cardinal Unufrio (brother to the 
 late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order. 
 He built them a pretty church, full of rare 
 pictures, and there lies the body of St. 
 Felix, that they say still does miracles. 
 The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranco. 
 It is a lofty edifice, with a beautiful avenue 
 of trees, and in a ;good air. After dinner, 
 passing along the Strada del Corso, I ob- 
 served the column of Antoninus, passing 
 under Arco Portugallo, which is but a 
 relic, heretofore erected in honour of 
 Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a 
 Cardinal living near it. A little further on 
 the right hand stands the column in a small 
 piazza, heretofore set up in honour of M. 
 Aurelius Antoninus, comprehending in a 
 basso -rilievo of white marble his hostile 
 acts against the Parthians, Armenians, 
 Germans, etc. ; but it is now somewhat 
 decayed. On the summit has been placed 
 the image of St. Paul, of gilded copper. 
 
 1 [The pasquinata were pasted upon the pedestal 
 of a statue of a gladiator which stood opposite the 
 shop of a sixteenth-century cobbler named Pasquin, 
 who was credited with the earlier ones.] 
 
 The pillar is said to be 161 feet high, 
 ascended by 207 steps, receiving light by 
 fifty -six apertures, without defacing the 
 sculpture. 
 
 At a little distance, are the relics of the 
 Emperor's Palace, the heads of whose 
 pillars show them to have been Corinthian. 
 
 Turning a little down, we came to 
 another piazza, in which stands a sump- 
 tuous vase of porphyry, and a fair foun- 
 tain ; but the grace of this market, and 
 indeed the admiration of the whole world, 
 is the Pantheon, now called S. Maria della 
 Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, 
 and still remaining the most entire anti- 
 quity of the city. It was built by Marcus 
 Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the 
 portico, sustained by thirteen pillars of 
 Theban marble, six feet thick, and fifty- 
 three in height, of one entire stone. In 
 this porch is an old inscription. 
 
 Entering the church, we admire the 
 fabric, wholly covered with one cupola, 
 seemingly suspended in the air, and re- 
 ceiving light by a hole in the middle only. 
 The structure is near as high as broad, viz. 
 144 feet, not counting the thickness of the 
 walls, which is twenty -two more to the 
 top, all of white marble ; and, till Urban 
 VIII. converted part of the metal into ord- 
 nance of war against the Duke of Parma, 
 and part to make the high altar in St. 
 Peter's, it was all over covered with Corin- 
 thian brass, ascending by forty degrees 
 within the roof, or convex, of the cupola, 
 richly carved in octagons in the stone. 
 There are niches in the walls, in which 
 stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and 
 the other Gods and Goddesses ; for here 
 was that Venus which had hung in her ear 
 the other union 1 which Cleopatra was 
 about to dissolve and drink up, as she had 
 done its fellow. There are several of these 
 niches, one above another, for the celestial, 
 terrestrial, and subterranean deities ; but 
 the place is now converted into a church 
 dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and all the 
 Saints. The pavement is excellent, and 
 the vast folding-gates, of Corinthian brass. 
 In a word, it is of all the Roman antiqui- 
 ties the most worthy of notice. There lie 
 interred in this Temple the famous Raphael 
 
 1 [A pearl of the finest kind (Lat. unio), Hamlet, 
 Act V. Sc. ii. (Dyce's Shakespeare Glossary, by 
 Littledale, 1902, p. 525).] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 103 
 
 di Urbino, Pierino del Vaga, T. Zuccaro, 
 and other painters. 
 
 Returning home, we pass by Cardinal 
 Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of archi- 
 tecture of Vincenzo Ammanati, which is 
 the grace of the whole Corso. 
 
 227id February. I went to Trinita de' 
 Monte, a monastery of French, a noble 
 church built by Louis XI. and Charles 
 VIII. , the chapels well painted, especially 
 that by Zaccara [Daniele?] da Volterra, 
 and the cloister with the miracles of their 
 St. Francis de Paolo, and the heads of the 
 French Kings. In the pergola above, the 
 walls are wrought with excellent perspec- 
 tive, especially the St. John ; there are the 
 Babylonish dials, invented by Kircher, the 
 Jesuit. 1 This convent, so eminently situated 
 on Mons Pincius, has the entire prospect of 
 Campus Martius, and has a fair garden 
 which joins to the Palazzo di Medici. 
 
 23rd. I went to hear a sermon at S. 
 Giacomo degli Incurabili, a fair church 
 built by F. da Volterra, of good architec- 
 ture, and so is the hospital, where only 
 desperate patients are brought. I passed 
 the evening at S. Maria del Popolo, here- 
 tofore Nero's sepulchre, where his ashes 
 lay many years in a marble chest. To this 
 church joins the monastery of St. Augus- 
 tine, which has pretty gardens on Mons 
 Pincius, and in the church is the miracu- 
 lous shrine of the Madonna which Pope 
 Paul III. brought barefooted to the place, 
 supplicating for a victory over the Turks in 
 1464. In a chapel of the Chigi, are some 
 rare paintings of Raphael, and noble sculp- 
 tures. Those two in the choir are by San- 
 sovino, and in the chapel de Cerasii, a 
 piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried 
 many great scholars and artists, of which I 
 took notice of this inscription : 
 
 Hospes, disce novum mortis genus ; improba felis, 
 Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo. 
 
 Opposite to the facciaia of the church is 
 a superb obelisk full of hieroglyphics, the 
 same that Sennesertus, King of Egypt, 
 dedicated to the Sun ; brought to Rome 
 by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maxi- 
 mus, and since placed here by Pope Sixtus 
 V. 2 It is eighty -eight feet high, of one 
 entire stone, and placed with great art and 
 engines by the famous Domenico Fontana. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 67. ] 
 
 2 [In 1589.] 
 
 Hence, turning on the right out of the 
 Porta del Popolo, we came to Justinian's 
 gardens, near the Muro Torto, so promi- 
 nently built as threatening every moment 
 to fall, yet standing so for these thousand 
 years. Under this is the burying-place for 
 the common prostitutes, where they are put 
 into the ground, sans cirimonie. 
 
 2^th. We walked to St. Roche's and 
 Martine's [SS. Rocco e Martino] near the 
 brink of the Tiber, a large hospital for both 
 sexes. Hence, to the Mausoleum Augusti, 
 betwixt the Tiber and the Via Flaminia, 
 now much ruined, which had formerly con- 
 tended for its sumptuous architecture. It 
 was intended as a cemetery for the Roman 
 Emperors, had twelve ports, and was 
 covered with a cupola of white marble, 
 environed with stately trees and innumer- 
 abl^statues, all of it now converted into 
 a garden. We passed the afternoon at 
 the Sapienza, a very stately building full 
 of good marbles, especially the portico, 
 of admirable architecture. These are 
 properly the University Schools, where 
 lectures are read on Law, Medicine, and 
 Anatomy, and students perform their exer- 
 cises. 
 
 Hence, we walked to the church of S. 
 Andrea della Valle, near the former 
 Theatre of Pompey, and the famous Pic- 
 colomini, 1 but given to this church and the 
 Order, who are Theatins. The Barberini 
 have in this place a chapel, of curious in- 
 crusted marbles of several sorts, and rare 
 paintings. Under it is the place where St. 
 Sebastian is said to have been beaten with 
 rods before he was shot with darts. The 
 cupola is painted by Lanfranco, an in- 
 estimable work, 2 and the whole fabric and 
 monastery adjoining are admirable. 
 
 2$th. I was invited by a Dominican 
 Friar, whom we usually heard preach to a 
 number of Jews, to be godfather to a con- 
 verted Turk and Jew. The ceremony was 
 performed in the Church of Santa Maria 
 sopra Minerva, near the Capitol. They 
 were clad in white ; then exorcised at their 
 entering the church with abundance of 
 ceremonies, and, when led into the choir, 
 
 1 [iEneas Silvius Piccolomini (Pius II.), 1405- 
 1464.] 
 
 2 [Giovanni Lanfranco, 1581-1648. This cupola, 
 which was to have been painted by Domenichino, 
 is one of Lanfranco's best works.] 
 
104 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 were baptized by a Bishop, in pontificalibus. 
 The Turk lived afterwards in Rome, sold 
 hot waters, and would bring us presents 
 when he met us, kneeling and kissing the 
 hems of our cloaks ; but the Jew was 
 believed to be a counterfeit. 1 This church, 
 situated on a spacious rising, was formerly 
 consecrated to Minerva. It was well built 
 and richly adorned, and the body of St. 
 Catherine di Siena lies buried here. 2 The 
 paintings of the chapel are by Marcello 
 Venuti ; the Madonna over the altar is by 
 Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic 
 Painter, who was of the Order of these 
 Monks. There are many charities dealt 
 publicly here, especially at the procession 
 on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holi- 
 ness, with all the Cardinals, Prelates, etc., 
 in po7itificalibus ; dowries being given to 
 300 poor girls all clad in white. 3 'The 
 Pope had his tiara on his head, and was 
 carried on men's shoulders in an open arm- 
 chair, blessing the people as he passed. 
 The statue of Christ, at the Columna, is 
 esteemed one of the masterpieces of M. 
 Angelo : innumerable are the paintings by 
 the best artists, and the organ is accounted 
 one of the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal 
 Bembo is interred here. We returned by 
 St. Mark's, a stately church, with an excel- 
 lent pavement, and a fine piece by Peru- 
 gino, of the Two Martyrs. Adjoining to 
 this is a noble palace built by the famous 
 Bramante. 
 
 26M February. Ascending the hill, we 
 came to the Forum Trajanum, where his 
 column stands yet entire, wrought with 
 admirable basso-rilievo recording the Dacian 
 war, the figures at the upper part appearing 
 of the same proportion with those below. 
 It is ascended by 192 steps, enlightened 
 with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially 
 disposed ; in height from the pedestal 
 140 feet. 
 
 It had once the ashes of Trajan and 
 his statue, where now stands St. Peter's 
 of gilt brass, erected by Pope Sixtus V. 
 The sculpture of this stupendous pillar is 
 thought to be the work of Apollodorus ; 
 but what is very observable is, the descent 
 to the plinth of the pedestal, showing how 
 this ancient city lies now buried in her 
 ruins ; this monument being at first set up 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 83.] 2 [See ante, p. 60.] 
 
 * [Szsfiost, p. 105.] 
 
 'on a rising ground. After dinner, we took 
 the air in Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious 
 gardens, now but newly deceased. 1 He 
 had a fair palace built by several good 
 masters on part of the ruins of Constantine's 
 Baths ; well adorned with columns and 
 paintings, especially those of Guido Reni. 
 
 27th. In the morning, Mr. Henshaw 
 and myself walked to the Trophies of 
 Marius, erected in honour of his victory 
 over the Cimbrians, but these now taken 
 out of their niches are placed on the 
 balusters of the Capitol, so that their 
 ancient station is now a ruin. Keeping 
 on our way, we came to St. Croce of 
 Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the 
 demolition of the Temple of Venus and 
 Cupid, which he threw down ; and it was 
 here they report he deposited the wood 
 of the true Cross found by his mother, 
 Helena ; in honour whereof this church 
 was built, and in memory of his victory 
 over Maxentius when that holy sign ap- 
 peared to him. The edifice without is 
 Gothic, but very glorious within, especially 
 the roof, and one tribuna (gallery) well 
 painted. Here is a chapel dedicated to 
 St. Helena, the floor whereof is of earth 
 brought from Jerusalem ; the walls are of 
 fair mosaic, in which they suffer no women 
 to enter, save once a year. Under the high 
 altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, 
 in Lydian marble, and Benedict VII. ; and 
 they show a number of relics, exposed at 
 our request ; with a phial of our blessed 
 Saviour's blood ; two thorns of his crown ; 
 three chips of the real cross ; one of the 
 nails, wanting a point ; St. Thomas's 
 doubting finger ; and a fragment of the 
 title (put on the cross), being part of a 
 thin board ; some of Judas's pieces of 
 silver ; and many more, if one had faith 
 to believe it. To this venerable church 
 joins a Monastery, the gardens taking up 
 the space of an ancient amphitheatre. 
 
 Hence, we passed beyond the walls out 
 at the Port of St. Laurence, to that Saint's 
 church, and where his ashes are enshrined. 
 This was also built by the same great 
 Constantine, famous for the Coronation 
 of Pietro Altissiodorensis, Emperor of 
 
 1 [Cardinal Guido Bentivoglio, 1579-1644. He 
 wrote the History of the Wars of Flanders, 
 englished in 1678 by Henry Earl of Monmouth 
 (see^ost, p. 116).] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 105 
 
 Constantinople, by Honorius the Second. 
 It is said the corpse of St. Stephen, the 
 proto-martyr, was deposited here by that 
 of St- Sebastian, which it had no sooner 
 touched, but Sebastian gave it place of its 
 own accord. The Church has no less 
 than seven privileged altars, and excellent 
 pictures. About the walls are painted this 
 martyr's sufferings ; and, when they built 
 them, the bones of divers saints were 
 translated to other churches. The front 
 is Gothic. In our return, we saw a small 
 ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus 
 Marcius, the praetor ; and so passed through 
 that incomparable straight street leading to 
 Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, 
 sufficiently tired. 
 
 We were taken up next morning in see- 
 ing the impertinences of the Carnival, when 
 all the world are as mad at Rome as at 
 other places ; but the most remarkable 
 were the three races of the Barbary horses, 
 that run in the Strada del Corso without 
 riders, only having spurs so placed on 
 their backs, and hanging down by their 
 sides, as by their motion to stimulate them: 
 then of mares, then of asses, of buffaloes, 
 naked men, old and young, and boys, 
 and abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. 
 One thing is remarkable, their acting 
 comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or 
 plaustrum, where the scene, or tiring- 
 place, is made of boughs in a rural manner, 
 which they drive from street to street with 
 a yoke or two of oxen, after the ancient 
 guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, 
 buffoons, and all manner of rabble. 
 
 1st March. At the Greek Church, we 
 saw the Eastern ceremonies performed by 
 a Bishop, etc., in that tongue. Here the 
 unfortunate Duke x and Duchess of Bouillon 
 received their ashes, it being the first day 
 of Lent. There was now as much trudg- 
 ing up and down of devotees, as the day 
 before of licentious people ; all saints alike 
 to appearance. 
 
 The gardens of Justinian, which we 
 next visited, are very full of statues and 
 antiquities, especially urns ; amongst which 
 is that of Minutius Felix ; a terminus that 
 formerly stood in the Appian way, and 
 a huge coloss of the Emperor Justinian. 
 
 1 Frederic-Maurice de la Tour d'Auvergne, Due 
 de Bouillon, 1605-52. He abjured Calvinism at 
 Rome in 1644.] 
 
 There is a delicate aviary on the hill ; the 
 whole gardens furnished with rare collec- 
 tions, fresh, shady, and adorned with noble 
 fountains. Continuing our walk a mile 
 farther, we came to Pons Milvius, now 
 Mela, where Constantine overthrew Max- 
 entius, and saw the miraculous sign of the 
 cross, In hoc signo vinces. It was a sweet 
 morning, and the bushes were full of 
 nightingales. Hence, to Aqua Claudia 
 again, an aqueduct finished by that 
 Emperor at the expense of eight millions. 
 In the afternoon, to Farnese's gardens, 
 near the Campo Vaccino ; and upon the 
 Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of 
 Juno's Temple, in the Piscina, a piazza 
 so called near the famous bridge built by 
 Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope 
 Sixtus IV. 
 
 The rest of this week, we went to the 
 Vatican, to hear the sermons, at St. Peter's, 
 of the most famous preachers, who discourse 
 on the same subjects and text yearly, full 
 of Italian eloquence and action. On our 
 Lady-day, 25th March, we saw the Pope 
 and Cardinals ride in pomp to the Minerva, 
 the great guns of the Castle of St. Angelo 
 being fired, when he gives portions to 500 
 zitelle (young women)/ who kiss his feet in 
 procession, some destined to marry, some 
 to be nuns ; — the scholars of the college 
 celebrating the blessed Virgin with their 
 compositions. The next day, his Holiness 
 was busied in blessing golden roses, to 
 be sent to several great Princes ; the 
 Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on 
 our Saviour's feeding the multitude with 
 five loaves, the ceremony ends. The 
 sacrament being this day exposed, and the 
 relics of the Holy Cross, the concourse 
 about the streets is extraordinary. On 
 Palm Sunday, there was a great procession, 
 after a papal mass. 
 
 nth April. St. Veronica's handkerchief 
 (with the impression of our Saviour's face) 
 was exposed, and the next day the spear, 
 with a world of ceremony. On Holy 
 Thursday, the Pope said mass, and after- 
 wards carried the Host in procession about 
 the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. 
 This finished, his Holiness was carried in 
 his open chair on men's shoulders to the 
 place where, reading the Bull In Cand 
 Domini, he both curses and blesses all in 
 1 [See ante, p. 104.] 
 
io6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 a breath ; then the guns are again fired. 
 Hence, he went to the Ducal hall of the 
 Vatican, where he washed the feet of twelve 
 poor men, with almost the same ceremony 
 as it is done at Whitehall ; * they have 
 clothes, a dinner, and alms, which he gives 
 with his own hands, and serves at their 
 table ; they have also gold and silver 
 medals, but their garments are of white 
 woollen long robes, as we paint the 
 Apostles. The same ceremonies are done 
 by the Conservators and other officers of 
 state at St. John di Laterano ; and now 
 the table on which they say our blessed 
 Lord celebrated his last supper is set out, 
 and the heads of the Apostles. In every 
 famous church they are busy in dressing 
 up their pageantries to represent the Holy 
 Sepulchre, of which we went to visit divers. 
 
 On Good Friday, we went again to St. 
 Peter's, where the handkerchief, lance, and 
 cross were all exposed, and worshipped 
 together. All the confession seats were 
 filled with devout people, and at night was 
 a procession of several who most lament- 
 ably whipped themselves till the blood 
 stained their clothes, for some had shirts, 
 others upon the bare back, having visors 
 and masks on their faces ; at every three 
 or four steps dashing the knotted and 
 ravelled whip-cord over their shoulders, as 
 hard as they could lay it on ; whilst some 
 of the religious orders and fraternities sung 
 in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses 
 going before, making all together a horrible 
 and indeed heathenish pomp. 
 
 The next day, there was much ceremony 
 at St. John di Laterano, so as the whole 
 week was spent in running from church to 
 church, all the town in busy devotion, 
 great silence, and unimaginable super- 
 stition. 
 
 Easter-day, I was awakened by the guns 
 from St. Angelo : we went to St Peter's, 
 where the Pope himself celebrated mass, 
 showed the relics before named, and gave 
 a public Benediction. 
 
 Monday, we went to hear music in the 
 Chiesa Nuova : and, though there were 
 abundance of ceremonies at the other great 
 churches, and great exposure of relics, yet 
 
 1 [By the monarch on Maundy Thursday. 
 James II. was the last to perform this to its full 
 extent. It was afterwards deputed to the Lord 
 High Almoner, and is now entirely given up.] 
 
 being wearied with sights of this nature, 
 and the season of the year, summer, at 
 Rome being very dangerous, by reason of 
 the heats minding us of returning north- 
 wards, we spent the rest of our time in 
 visiting such places as we had not yet 
 sufficiently seen. Only I do not forget the 
 Pope's benediction of the Gonfalone^ or 
 Standard, and giving the hallowed palms ; 
 and, on May-day, the great procession of 
 the University and the muleteers at St. 
 Anthony's, and their setting up a foolish 
 May-pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. 
 We therefore now took coach a little out 
 of town, to visit the famous Roma Sotter- 
 ranea, being much like what we had seen 
 at St. Sebastian's. Here, in a corn-field, 
 guided by two torches, we crept on our 
 bellies into a little hole, about twenty 
 paces, which delivered us into a large 
 entry that led us into several streets, or 
 alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the 
 earth, a strange and fearful passage for 
 divers miles, as Bosio has measured and 
 described them in his book. 1 We ever and 
 anon came into pretty square rooms, that 
 seemed to be chapels with altars, and some 
 adorned with very ordinary ancient paint- 
 ing. Many skeletons and bodies are placed 
 on the sides one above the other in degrees 
 like shelves, whereof some are shut up with 
 a coarse flat stone, having engraven on 
 them Pro Christo, or a cross and palms, 
 which are supposed to have been martyrs. 
 Here, in all likelihood, were the meetings 
 of the Primitive Christians during the per- 
 secutions, as Pliny the younger describes 
 them. As I was prying about, I found a 
 glass phial, filled (as was conjectured) 
 with dried blood, and two lachrymatories. 
 Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for 
 there appeared nothing else), lay so entire, 
 as if placed by the art of the chirurgeon, 
 but being only touched fell all to dust. 
 Thus, after wandering two or three miles 
 in this subterranean meander, we returned 
 almost blind when we came into the day- 
 light, and even choked by the smoke of 
 the torches. It is said that a French 
 bishop and his retinue adventuring too 
 far in these dens, their lights going out, 
 were never heard of more. 
 
 We were entertained at night with an 
 
 1 Roma. Sotterranea, by Antonio Bosio, folio, 
 Roma, 1632. 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 107 
 
 English play at the Jesuits', where we 
 before had dined ; 1 and the next day at 
 Prince Galicano's, who himself composed 
 the music to a magnificent opera, where 
 were^ present Cardinal Pamphilio, the 
 Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, 
 the cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a 
 number of nobility and strangers. There 
 had been in the morning a joust and 
 tournament of several young gentlemen on 
 a formal defy, to which we had been in- 
 vited ; the prizes being distributed by the 
 ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The 
 lancers and swordsmen running at tilt 
 against the barriers, with a great deal of 
 clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving 
 much diversion to the spectators, and was 
 new to us travellers. 
 
 The next day, Mr. Henshaw and I spent 
 the morning in attending the entrance 
 and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, the 
 ambassador from the Grand Duke of 
 Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After 
 dinner, we went again to the Villa Borghese, 
 about a mile without the city ; ' 2 the garden 
 is rather a park, or a Paradise, contrived 
 and planted with walks and shades of 
 myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and 
 groves, with abundance of fountains, 
 statues, and basso -rilievos, and several 
 pretty murmuring rivulets. Here they had 
 hung large nets to catch woodcocks. 
 There was also a vivary, where, amongst, 
 other exotic fowls, was an ostrich ; besides 
 a most capacious aviary ; and, in another 
 inclosed part, a herd of deer. Before the 
 Palace (which might become the court of 
 a great prince) stands a noble fountain, of 
 white marble enriched with statues. The 
 outer walls of the house are encrusted with 
 excellent antique basso - rilievos, of the 
 same marble, incornished with festoons 
 and niches set with statues from the 
 foundation to the roof. A stately portico 
 joins the Palace, full of statues and columns 
 of marble, urns, and other curiosities of 
 sculpture. In the first hall were the 
 Twelve Caesars, of 'antique marble, 3 and 
 the whole apartments furnished with pic- 
 tures of the most celebrated masters, and 
 two rare tables of porphyry, of great 
 value. But of this already ; for I often 
 visited this delicious place. 
 
 1 [See atite, p. 83.] 2 [See ante, p. 72.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 73.] 
 
 This night were glorious fire-works at 
 the Palace of Cardinal Medici before the 
 gate, and lights of several colours all about 
 the windows through the city, which they 
 contrive by setting the candles in little 
 paper lanterns dyed with various colours, 
 placing hundreds of them from story to 
 story ; which renders a gallant show. 
 
 4th, May. Having seen the entry of the 
 ambassador of Lucca, I went to the 
 Vatican, where by favour of our Cardinal 
 Protector, Fran. Barberini, 1 I was admitted 
 into the Consistory, heard the ambassador 
 make his oration in Latin to the Pope, 
 sitting on an elevated state, or throne, and 
 changing two pontifical mitres ; after which, 
 I was presented to kiss his toe, that is, his 
 embroidered slipper, two Cardinals holding 
 up his vest and surplice ; and then, being 
 sufficiently blessed with his thumb and two 
 fingers for that day, I returned home to 
 dinner. 
 
 We went again to see the medals of 
 Signor Gotefredi, which are absolutely the 
 best collection in Rome. 
 
 Passing the Ludovisi Villa, where the 
 petrified human figure lies, found on the 
 snowy Alps ; I measured the hydra, and 
 found it not a foot long ; the three necks 
 and fifteen heads seem to be but patched 
 up with several pieces of serpents' skins. 
 
 §th. We took coach, and went fifteen 
 miles out of the city to Frascati, formerly 
 Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, 
 built for a country-house ; but, surpassing, 
 in my opinion, the most delicious places I 
 ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plenti- 
 ful water, groves, ascents, and prospects, 
 just behind the Palace (which is of excellent 
 architecture) in the centre of the enclosure, 
 rises a high hill, or mountain, all over 
 clad with tall wood, and so formed by 
 nature, as if it had been cut out by art, 
 from the summit whereof falls a cascade, 
 seeming rather a great river than a stream 
 precipitating into a large theatre of water, 
 representing an exact and perfect rainbow, 
 when the sun shines out. Under this, is 
 made an artificial grot, wherein are curious 
 rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts of 
 singing birds, moving and; chirping by 
 force of the water, with several other 
 pageants and surprising inventions. In 
 the centre of one of these rooms, rises a 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 101.J 
 
io8 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1645 
 
 copper ball that continually dances about 
 three feet above the pavement, by virtue 
 of a wind conveyed secretly to a hole 
 beneath it ; with many other devices to 
 wet the unwary spectators, so that one can 
 hardly step without wetting to the skin. 
 In one of these theatres of water, is an 
 Atlas spouting up the stream to a very 
 great height ; and another monster makes 
 a terrible roaring with a horn ; but, above 
 all, the representation of a storm is most 
 natural, with such fury of rain, wind, and 
 thunder, as one would imagine oneself in 
 some extreme tempest. The garden has 
 excellent walks and shady groves, abund- 
 ance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, etc., 
 and the goodly prospect of Rome, above 
 all description, so as I do not wonder that 
 Cicero and others have celebrated this 
 place with such encomiums. The Palace 
 is indeed built more like a cabinet than 
 anything composed of stone and mortar ; 
 it has in the middle a hall furnished 
 with excellent marbles and rare pictures, 
 especially those of Giuseppe d' Arpino ; 
 the movables are princely and rich. This 
 was the last piece of architecture finished 
 by Giacomo della Porta, who built it for 
 Pietro, Cardinal Aldobrandini, in the time 
 of Clement VIII. 1 
 
 We went hence to another house and 
 garden not far distant, on the side of a hill 
 called Mondragone, finished by Cardinal 
 Scipio Borghese, an ample and kingly 
 edifice. It has a very long gallery, and at 
 the end a theatre for pastimes, spacious 
 courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive-grounds, 
 groves, and solitudes. The air is so fresh 
 and sweet, as few parts of Italy exceed it ; 
 nor is it inferior to any palace in the city 
 itself for statues, pictures, and furniture ; 
 but, it growing late, we could not take 
 such particular notice of these things as they 
 deserved. 
 
 6th May. We rested ourselves ; and 
 next day, in a coach, took our last farewell 
 of visiting the circumjacent places, going 
 to Tivoli, or the old Tiburtum. At about 
 six miles from Rome, we pass the Teverone, 
 a bridge built by Mammaea, ihe mother of 
 Severus, and so by divers ancient sepul- 
 chres, amongst others that of Valerius 
 
 1 Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected 
 Pope in January, 1592, by the name of Clement 
 VIII., and died in March, 1605. 
 
 Volusi ; and near it past the stinking sul- 
 phureous river over the Ponte Lucano, 
 where we found a heap, or turret, full 01 
 inscriptions, now called the Tomb of 
 Plautius. Arrived at Tivoli, we went first 
 to see the Palace d' Este, erected on a 
 plain, but where was formerly an hill. 
 The Palace is very ample and stately. In 
 the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen 
 vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters ; 
 in the midst of these stands a Janus 
 quadrifrons, that cast forth four girandolas, 
 called from the resemblance (to a particular 
 exhibition in fire- works so-named) the 
 Fontana di Speccho (looking-glass). Near 
 this is a place for tilting. Before the 
 ascent of the Palace is the famous fountain 
 of Leda, and not far from that, four sweet 
 and delicious gardens. Descending thence 
 are two pyramids of water, and in a grove 
 of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, 
 Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, 
 and Flora ; then the prancing Pegasus, 
 Bacchus, the Grot of Venus, the two 
 colosses of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, 
 all of exquisite marble, copper, and other 
 suitable adornments. The Cupids pouring 
 out water are especially most rare, and the 
 urns on which are placed the ten nymphs. 
 The grots are richly paved with pietra- 
 co??imessa, shells, coral, etc. 
 
 Towards Roma Triumphans, leads a 
 long and spacious walk, full of fountains, 
 under which is historised the whole Ovidian 
 Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured mezzo- 
 rilievo. At the end of this, next the wall, 
 is the city of Rome as it was in its beauty, 
 of small models, representing that city, 
 with its amphitheatres ; naumachi, thermce^ 
 temples, arches, aqueducts, streets, and 
 other magnificences, with a little stream 
 running through it for the Tiber, gushing 
 out of an urn next the statue of the river. 
 In another garden is a noble aviary, the 
 birds artificial, and singing till an owl 
 appears, on which they suddenly change 
 their notes. Near this is the fountain of 
 dragons, casting out large streams of water 
 with great noise. In another grotto, 
 called Grotto di Natura, is an hydraulic 
 organ ; and, below this, are divers stews 
 and fish-ponds, in one of which is the 
 statue of Neptune in his chariot on a sea- 
 horse, in another a Triton ; and, lastly, a 
 garden of simples. There are besides in 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 109 
 
 the palace many rare statues and pictures, 
 bedsteads richly inlaid, and sundry other 
 precious movables : the whole is said to 
 have cost the best part of a million. 
 
 Haying gratified our curiosity with these 
 artificial miracles, and dined, we went to 
 see the so famous natural precipice and 
 cascade of the river Anio, rushing down 
 from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury 
 that, what with the mist it perpetually 
 casts up by the breaking of the water 
 against the rocks, and what with the sun 
 shining on it and forming a natural iris, 
 and the prodigious depth of the gulf below, 
 it is enough to astonish one that looks on 
 it. Upon the summit of this rock stands 
 the ruin and some pillars and cornices cf 
 the Temple of Sibylla Tiburtina, or Albunea, 
 a round fabric, still discovering some of its 
 pristine beauty. Here was a great deal 
 of gunpowder drying in the sun, and 
 a little beneath, mills belonging to the 
 Pope. 
 
 And now we returned to Rome. By 
 the way, we were showed, at some distance, 
 the city Praeneste, and the Hadrian villa, 
 now only a heap of ruins ; and so came 
 late to our lodging. 
 
 We now determined to desist from 
 visiting any more curiosities, except what 
 should happen to come in our way, when 
 my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or myself 
 should go to take the air ; only I may not 
 omit that one afternoon, diverting ourselves 
 in the Piazza Navona, a mountebank there 
 to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring 
 from his finger, which seemed set with a 
 dull, dark stone a little swelling out, like 
 what we call (though untruly) a toadstone, 
 and wetting his finger a little in his mouth, 
 and then touching it, it emitted a luculent 
 flame as bright and large as a small wax 
 candle ; 1 then, blowing it out, repeated 
 this several times. I have much regretted 
 that I did not purchase the receipt of 
 him for making that composition at what 
 price soever ; for though there is a process 
 in Jo. Baptista Porta 2 and others how to 
 do it, yet on several trials they none of 
 them have succeeded. 
 
 1 [Perhaps the lapis illuminabilis, hereafter 
 mentioned (seefost, p. 115).] 
 
 2 [John Baptista Porta, 1550-1615, a Neapolitan 
 physician, author of Magice Naturalis, 1589, 
 etc.] 
 
 Amongst other observations I made in 
 Rome are these : as to coins and medals, 
 ten asses make the Roman denarius, five 
 the quinarius, ten denarii an aureus ; 
 which account runs almost exactly with 
 what is now in use of quatiwi, baiocs, 
 julios, and scudi, each exceeding the other 
 in the proportion of ten. The sestertius 
 was a small silver coin, marked H. s. or 
 rather LL S , valued two pounds and a half 
 of silver, viz. 250 denarii, about twenty- 
 five golden ducati. The stamp of the 
 Roman denarius varied, having sometimes 
 a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma armed, 
 or with a chariot and two horses, which 
 were called bigae ; if with four, quadrigae : 
 if with a Victoria, so named. The mark 
 of the denarius was distinguished > | < 
 thus, or X ; the quinarius of half value, 
 had, on one side, the head of Rome and 
 V ; the reverse, Castor and Pollux oia 
 horseback, inscribed Roma, etc. 
 
 I observed that in the Greek church 
 they made the sign of the cross from the 
 right hand to the left ; contrary to the 
 Latins and the schismatic Greeks ; gave 
 the benediction with the first, second, and 
 little finger stretched out, retaining the 
 third bent down, expressing a distance of 
 the third Person of the Holy Trinity from 
 the first two. 
 
 For sculptors and architects, we found 
 Bernina and Algardi * were in the greatest 
 esteem ; Fiamingo, as a statuary ; 2 who 
 made the Andrea in St. Peter's, and is said 
 to have died mad because it was placed in 
 an ill light. Amongst the painters, An- 
 tonio de la Cornea, who had such an ad- 
 dress of counterfeiting the hands of the 
 ancient masters so well as to make his 
 copies pass for originals ; Pietro de Cortone r 
 Monsieur Poussin, a Frenchman, and in- 
 numerable more. Fioravanti, for armour, 
 plate, dead life, tapestry, etc. The chief 
 masters of music, after Marc Antonio, the 
 best treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch ; 
 the next Cardinal Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi, 
 tenor, and Nicholai, base. The Jews in 
 Rome wore red hats,, till the Cardinal of 
 Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted 
 one of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal 
 as he passed by his coach ; on which art 
 order was made, that they should use only 
 
 1 [Alessandro Algardi, d. 10th June, 1654.] 
 2 [See ante, p. 76.] 
 
no 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 the yellow colour. There was now at 
 Rome one Mrs. Ward, an English devotee, 
 who much solicited for an order of Jesuit- 
 esses. 
 
 At executions I saw one, a gentleman, 
 hanged in his cloak and hat for murder. 
 They struck the malefactor with a club that 
 first stunned him and then cut his throat. 
 At Naples they use a frame, like ours at 
 Halifax. 1 
 
 It is reported that Rome has been once 
 no less than fifty miles in compass, now not 
 thirteen, containing in it 3000 churches and 
 chapels, monasteries, etc. It is divided 
 into fourteen regions or wards ; has seven 
 mountains, and as many ca?npi or valleys ; 
 in these are fair parks, or gardens, called 
 villas, being only places of recess and plea- 
 sure, at some distance from the streets, yet 
 within the walls. 
 
 The bills of exchange I took up from my 
 first entering Italy till I went from Rome, 
 amounting but to 616 ducati di banco , 
 though I purchased many books, pictures, 
 and curiosities. 
 
 iZth May. I intended to have seen 
 Loretto, but, being disappointed of monies 
 long expected, I was forced to return by 
 the same way I came, desiring, if possible, 
 to be at Venice by the Ascension, and 
 therefore I diverted to take Leghorn on the 
 way, as well to furnish me with credit by a 
 merchant there, as to take order for trans- 
 porting such collections as I had made at 
 Rome. When on my way, turning about 
 to behold this once and yet glorious city, 
 from an eminence, I did not, without some 
 regret, give it my last farewell. 
 
 Having taken leave of our friends at 
 Rome, where I had sojourned now about 
 seven months, autumn, winter, and spring, 
 I took coach, in company with two courteous 
 Italian gentlemen. In the afternoon, we 
 arrived at a house, or rather castle, belong- 
 ing to the Duke of Parma, called Caprarola, 2 
 situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks 
 a little town, or rather a natural and stupen- 
 dous rock ; witness those vast caves serving 
 now for cellarage, where we were enter- 
 tained with most generous wine of several 
 sorts, being just under the foundation. 
 The Palace was built by the famous archi- 
 
 1 [A guillotine (see/>ost, p. 124.] 
 
 2 ["Ten Italian miles from Viterbo towards 
 Rome," says Keysler, ii. p. 94.] 
 
 tect, Vignola, 1 at the cost of Cardinal Alex. 
 Farnese, in form of an octagon, the court 
 in the middle being exactly round, so as 
 rather to resemble a fort, or castle ; yet 
 the chambers within are all of them square, 
 which makes the walls exceedingly thick. 
 One of these rooms is so artificially con- 
 trived, that from the two opposite angles 
 may be heard the least whisper ; they say 
 any perfect square does it. Most of the 
 paintings are by Zuccaro. It has a stately 
 entry, on which spouts an artificial fountain 
 within the porch. The hall, chapel, and a 
 great number of lodging chambers are re- 
 markable ; but most of all the pictures and 
 witty inventions of Annibale Caracci ; 2 the 
 Dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are 
 the gardens full of statues and noble foun- 
 tains, especially that of the Shepherds. 
 After dinner, we took horse, and lay that 
 night at Monte Rossi, twenty miles from 
 Rome. 
 
 19//2. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at 
 St. Laurenzo. Next day, at Radicofani, 3 
 and slept at Turnera. 
 
 21st. We dined at Siena, where we 
 could not pass admiring the great church 4 
 built entirely both within and without with 
 white and black marble in polished squares, 
 by Macarino, showing so beautiful after 
 a shower has fallen. The floor within Is 
 of various coloured marbles, representing 
 the story of both Testaments, admirably 
 wrought. Here lies Pius the Second. 
 The bibliotica is painted by P. Perugino 
 and Raphael. The life of ^Eneas Sylvius 
 is in fresco ; in the middle are the Three 
 Graces, in antique marble, very curious, 
 and the front of this building, though 
 Gothic, is yet very fine. Amongst other 
 things, they show St. Catherine's disciplin- 
 ing cell, the door whereof is half cut out 
 into chips by the pilgrims and devotees, 
 being of deal wood. 
 
 Setting out hence for Pisa, we went 
 again to see the Duomo in which the Em- 
 peror Henry VII. lies buried, poisoned by 
 a monk in the Eucharist. 5 The bending 
 
 1 [Giacomi Barocci cla Vignola, 1507-73.] 
 
 M [" It is a common mistake in the descriptions 
 of Caprarola, instead of the commandeur Annibal 
 Caro, to attribute the invention of these pieces to 
 the painter Annibal Caracci, who was not born till 
 the year 1560" (Keysler, ii. p. 95).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 61.] 4 [See ante, p. 60.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 61.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 in 
 
 tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, 1 a 
 Greek architect, and is a stupendous piece 
 of art. In the gallery of curiosities is a 
 fair mummy ; the tail of a sea-horse ; coral 
 growing on a man's skull ; a chariot auto- 
 maton ; two pieces of rock crystal, in one 
 of which is a drop of water, in the other 
 three or four small worms ; two embalmed 
 children ; divers petrifactions, etc. The 
 garden of simples is well furnished, and 
 has in it the deadly yew, or taxus^ of the 
 ancierits ; which Dr. Belluccio, the super- 
 intendent, affirms that his workmen cannot 
 endure to clip for above the space of half 
 an hour at a time, from the pain of the 
 head which surprises them. 
 
 We went hence from Leghorn, by 
 coach, where I took up ninety crowns for 
 the rest of my journey, with letters of 
 credit for Venice, after I had sufficiently 
 complained of my defeat of correspondence 
 at Rome. 
 
 The next day, I came to Lucca, a small 
 but pretty territory and state of itself. The 
 city is neat and well fortified, with noble 
 and pleasant walks of trees on the works, 
 where the gentry and ladies used to take 
 the air. It is situate on an ample plain by 
 the river Serchio, yet the country about it 
 is. hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. 
 The church of St. Michael is a noble piece, 
 as is also St. Fredian, more remarkable to 
 us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English 
 king, 9 who died here on his pilgrimage 
 towards Rome. This epitaph is on his 
 tomb : — 
 
 Hlc rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus : 
 Rex fuit Anglorum ; regnum tenet iste Polorum. 
 Regnum demisit ; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. 
 Ergo, Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum. 
 Hie genitor Sanctae Wulburgae Virginis almae 
 Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, 
 Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum. 
 
 Next this, we visited St. Croce, 3 an 
 excellent structure all of marble both with- 
 out and within, and so adorned as may 
 
 1 [Modern authorities give it not to Busketus, 
 but to Bonannus of Pisa and William of Innsbruck, 
 1174-1350.] 
 
 2 [A pencil note in a copy of Lassels, 1. p. 227, 
 says, " Bp. of Chichester. " But the Bishop referred 
 to, Richard de Wyche, 197 V-1253, was buried in 
 Chichester Cathedral. He was canonised in 1262.] 
 
 3 [The Duomo or Cathedral. The Volto Sacro 
 di Lucca — which furnished his favourite assevera- 
 tion to William Rufus — was said to have been 
 miraculously brought to Lucca in 782.] 
 
 vie with many of the fairest even in Rome : 
 witness the huge cross, valued at ,£15,000, 
 above all venerable for that sacred volto 
 which (as tradition goes) was miraculously 
 put on the image of Christ, and made by 
 Nicodemus, whilst the artist, finishing the 
 rest of the body, was meditating what face 
 to set on it. The inhabitants are ex- 
 ceedingly civil to strangers, above all places 
 in Italy, and they speak the purest Italian. 
 It is also cheap living, which causes 
 travellers to set up their rest here more 
 than in Florence, though a more celebrated 
 city ; besides, the ladies here are very 
 conversable, and the religious women not 
 at all reserved ; of these we bought gloves 
 and embroidered stomachers, generally 
 worn by gentlemen in these countries. 
 The circuit of this state is but two easy 
 days' journey, and lies mixed with the 
 Duke of Tuscany's, but having Spain for 
 a protector (though the least bigoted of all 
 Roman Catholics), and being one of the 
 fortified cities in Italy, it remains in peace. 
 The whole country abounds in excellent 
 olives, etc. 
 
 Going hence for Florence, we dined at 
 Fistoia, where, besides one church, there 
 was little observable : only in the highway 
 we crossed a rivulet of salt water, though 
 many miles from the sea. The country is 
 extremely pleasant, full of gardens, and 
 the roads straight as a line for the best 
 part of that whole day, the hedges planted 
 with trees at equal distances, watered with 
 clear and plentiful streams. 
 
 Rising early the . next morning, we 
 arrived at Poggio Imperiale, being a Palace 
 of the Great Duke, not far from the city, 
 having omitted it in my passage to Rome. 
 The ascent to the house is by a stately 
 gallery as it were of tall and overgrown 
 cypress trees for near half a mile. At the 
 entrance of these ranges, are placed statues 
 of the Tiber and Arno, of marble ; those 
 also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. 
 The building is sumptuous, and curiously 
 furnished within with cabinets of pietra- 
 commessa in tables, pavements, etc. , which 
 is a magnificence, or work, particularly 
 affected at Florence. The pictures are, 
 Adam and Eve by Albert Diirer, very 
 excellent ; as is that piece of carving in 
 wood by the same hand standing in a cup- 
 board. Here is painted the whole Austrian 
 
112 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 line ; the Duke's mother, 1 sister to the 
 Emperor, the foundress of this palace, than 
 which there is none in Italy that I had seen 
 more magnificently adorned, or furnished. 
 
 We could not omit in our passage to 
 re-visit the same, and other curiosities 
 which we had neglected on our first being 
 at Florence. We went, therefore, to see 
 the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto, 2 in 
 the Annunziata. The story is, that the 
 painter in a time of dearth borrowed a sack 
 of corn of the religious of that convent, and 
 repayment being demanded, he wrought 
 it out in this picture, which represents 
 Joseph sitting on a sack of corn, and 
 reading to the Blessed Virgin ; a piece 
 infinitely valued. There fell down in the 
 cloister an old man's face painted on the 
 wall in fresco, greatly esteemed, and brake 
 into crumbs ; the Duke sent his best painters 
 to make another instead of it, but none of 
 them would presume to touch a pencil 
 where Andrea had wrought, like another 
 Apelles ; but one of them was so industrious 
 and patient, that, picking up the fragments, 
 he laid and fastened them so artificially 
 together, that the injury it had received 
 was hardly discernible. Andrea del Sarto 
 lies buried in the same place. Here is also 
 that picture of Bartolommeo, who having 
 spent his utmost skill in the face of the 
 angel Gabriel, and being troubled that he 
 could not exceed it in the Virgin, he began 
 the body and to finish the clothes, and so 
 left it, minding in the morning to work on 
 the face ; but, when he came, no sooner 
 had he drawn away the cloth that was hung 
 before it to preserve it from the dust, than 
 an admirable and ravishing face was found 
 ready painted ; at which miracle all the 
 city came in to worship. It is now kept 
 in the chapel of the Salutation, a place so 
 enriched by the devotees, that none in 
 Italy, save Loretto, is said to exceed it. 
 This picture is always covered with three 
 shutters, one of which is of massy silver ; 
 methinks it is very brown, the forehead and 
 cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. 
 They report that those who have the 
 honour of seeing it never lose their sight 
 — happy then we ! Belonging to this 
 
 1 [Magdalen of Austria, wife of the Grand Duke 
 Cosmo II., by whom Poggio Imperiale was built 
 about 1622.] 
 
 2 L" La Madonna del Sacco."] 
 
 church is a world of plate, some whole 
 statues of it, and lamps innumerable, 
 besides the costly vows hung up, some of 
 gold, and a cabinet of precious stones. 
 
 Visiting the Duke's repository again, 1 
 we told at least forty ranks of porphyry 
 and other statues, and twenty-eight whole 
 figures, many rare paintings and rilievos, 
 two square columns with trophies. In one 
 of the galleries, twenty-four figures, and 
 fifty antique heads ; a Bacchus of M. 
 Angelo, and one of Bandinelli ; a head of 
 Bernini, and a most lovely Cupid, of Parian 
 marble ; at the further end, two admirable 
 women sitting, and a man fighting with a 
 centaur ; three figures in little of Andrea ; 
 a huge candlestick of amber ; a table of 
 Titian's painting, and another representing 
 God the .Father sitting in the air on the 
 Four Evangelists ; animals ; divers smaller 
 pieces of Raphael ; a piece of pure virgin 
 gold, as big as an egg. In the third 
 chamber of rarities is the square cabinet, 
 valued at 80,000 crowns, showing, on every 
 front, a variety of curious work ; one of 
 birds and flowers, of pietra-commessa ; one, 
 a descent from the cross, of M. Angelo ; 
 on the third, our Blessed Saviour and the 
 Apostles, of amber ; and, on the fourth, a 
 crucifix of the same. Betwixt the pictures, 
 two naked Venuses, by Titian ; Adam and 
 Eve, by Diirer ; and several pieces of Por- 
 denone, and del Frate. There is a globe 
 of six feet diameter. In the Armoury, 
 an entire elk, a crocodile, and 
 
 were 
 
 amongst the harness, several targets and 
 antique horse-arms, as that of Charles V. ; 
 two set with turquoises, and other precious 
 stones ; a horse's tail, of a wonderful length. 
 Then, passing the Old Palace, which has 
 a very great hall for feasts and comedies, 
 the roof rarely painted, and the side-walls 
 with six very large pictures representing 
 battles, the work of Gio. Vasari. Here is 
 a magazine full of plate ; a harness of 
 emeralds ; the furnitures of an altar four 
 feet high, and six in length, of massy gold ; 
 in the middle is placed the statue of Cosmo 
 II. ; the basso-rilievo is of precious stones, 
 his breeches covered with diamonds ; the 
 mouldings of this statue, and other orna- 
 ments, festoons, etc., are garnished with 
 jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. 
 Charles, with this inscription, in rubies : 
 1 [See ante, p. 58.] 
 
1U 
 
 45J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 II- 
 
 Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux 
 Etruriae ex voto. 
 
 There is also a King on horseback, of 
 massy gold, two feet high, and an infinity 
 of such -like rarities. Looking at the 
 Justice, in copper, set up on a column by 
 Cosmo, in 1555, after the victory over Siena, 
 we were told that the Duke, asking a 
 gentleman how he liked the piece, he 
 answered, that he liked it very well, but 
 that it stood too high for poor men to come 
 at it. 
 
 Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very 
 excellent collection of paintings, especially 
 a St. Catherine of P. Veronese ; a Venus 
 of marble, veiled from the middle to the 
 feet, esteemed to be of that Greek workman 
 who made the Venus at the Medicis' Palace 
 in Rome, 1 altogether as good, and better 
 preserved, an inestimable statue, not long 
 since found about Bologna. 
 
 Signor Gaddi is a lettered person, and 
 has divers rarities, statues, and pictures of 
 the best masters, and one bust of marble as 
 much esteemed as the most antique in Italy, 
 and many curious manuscripts ; his best 
 paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, men- 
 tioned by Vasari, a St. John by Raphael, 
 and an " Ecce Homo" by Titian. 
 
 The hall of the Academy de la Crusca 2 
 is hung^ about with impresses 3 and devices 
 painted, all of them relating to corn sifted 
 from the bran ; the seats are made like 
 bread-baskets and other rustic instruments 
 used about wheat, and the cushions of 
 satin, like sacks. 
 
 We took our farewell of St. Laurence, 
 more particularly noticing that piece of the 
 Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious 
 number of naked figures, the work of 
 Pontormo. On the left hand, is the 
 Martyrdom of St. Laurence, by Bronzino, 
 rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is the 
 tomb of Pietro di Medici, and his brother 
 John, of copper, excellently designed, 
 standing on two lions' feet, which end in 
 foliage, the work of M. Angelo. Over 
 against this, are sepulchres of all the ducal 
 
 1 [Kleomenes.] 
 
 2 [Crusca=bran, and the function of this body 
 was the "sifting of the corn from the bran."] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 69. A fresh illustration of the 
 word is afforded by Mr. Sidney Lee's Shakespeare 
 discovery, where the poet figures as having designed 
 an "impreso" for the Duke of Rutland in 1613 
 (Times, 27th December, 1905).] 
 
 family. The altar has a statue of th( 
 Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles 
 Paulus Jovius 1 has the honour to be buriec 
 in the cloister. Behind the choir is th< 
 superb chapel of Ferdinand I. , consisting o 
 eight faces, four plain, four a little hollowed 
 in the other are to be the sepulchres, and i 
 niche of paragon 2 for the statue of th< 
 prince now living, all of copper gilt ; above 
 is a large table of porphyry, for an inscrip 
 tion for the Duke, in letters of jasper 
 The whole chapel, walls, pavement, anc 
 roof, are full of precious stones united will 
 the mouldings, which are also of gildec 
 copper, and so are the bases and capitals o 
 the columns. The tabernacle, with th< 
 whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli 
 serpentine, agates, onyxes, etc. On th< 
 other side, are six very large columns o 
 rock crystal, eight figures of precious stone: 
 of several colours, inlaid in natural figures 
 not inferior to the best paintings, amongs 
 which are many pearls, diamonds, ame 
 thysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparklim 
 beyond description. The windows without 
 side are of white marble. The library ii 
 the architecture of Raphael ; before th< 
 port is a square vestibule of excellent art 
 of all the orders, without confusion ; th< 
 ascent to it from the library is excellent 
 We numbered eighty-eight shelves, al 
 MSS. and bound in red, chained ; in al 
 about 3500 volumes, as they told us. 
 
 The arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,00c 
 men, accurately preserved and kept, witl 
 divers lusty pieces of ordnance, whereo 
 one is for a ball of 300 pounds weight, anc 
 another for 160, which weighs 72,50c 
 pounds. 
 
 When I was at Florence, the celebratec 
 masters were : for pietra-comviessa (a kinc 
 of mosaic, or inlaying, of various colourec 
 marble, and other more precious stones) 
 Dominico Benotti and Mazotti ; the besi 
 statuary, Vincentio Brochi. This statuar) 
 makes those small figures in plaster anc 
 pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, 
 till one handles them, they cannot be dis 
 tinguished, he has so rare an art of bronzing 
 them ; I bought four of him. The besi 
 painter, Pietro Berretini di Cortona. 3 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 58.] 
 
 2 [Paragone — the black marble of Bergamo.] 
 
 3 [Pietro Berretini da Cortona, 1596-1669, e 
 Florentine, whose frescoes are in the Pitti Palace. \ 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 This Duke has a daily tribute for every 
 courtesan, or prostitute, allowed to practise 
 that infamous trade in his dominions, and 
 so has his Holiness the Pope, but not so 
 much in value. 
 
 Taking leave of our t wo j oily companions , 
 Signor Giovanni and his fellow, 1 we took 
 horses for Bologna ; and, by the way, 
 alighted at a villa of the Grand Duke's, 
 called Pratolino. The house is a square of 
 four pavilions, with a fair platform about 
 it, balustred with stone, situate in a large 
 meadow, ascending like an amphitheatre, 
 having at the bottom a huge rock, with 
 water running in a small channel, like a 
 cascade ; on the other side are the gardens. 
 The whole place seems consecrated to 
 pleasure and summer retirement. The 
 inside of the Palace may compare with any 
 in Italy for furniture of tapestry, beds, etc., 
 and the gardens are delicious, and full of 
 fountains. In the grove sits Pan feeding 
 his flock, the water making a melodious 
 sound through his pipe ; and a Hercules, 
 whose club yields a shower of water, which, 
 falling into a great shell, has a naked 
 woman riding on the backs of dolphins. 
 In another grotto is Vulcan and his family, 
 the walls richly composed of corals, shells, 
 copper, and marble figures, with the hunt- 
 ing of several beasts, moving by the force 
 of water. Here, having been well washed 
 for our curiosity, we went down a large 
 walk, at the sides whereof several slender 
 streams of water gush out of pipes concealed 
 underneath, that interchangeably fall into 
 each other's channels, making a lofty and 
 perfect arch, so that a man on horseback 
 may ride under it, and not receive one 
 drop of wet. This canopy, or arch of 
 water, I thought one of the most surprising 
 magnificences I had ever seen, and very 
 refreshing in the heat of the summer. At 
 the end of this very long walk, stands a 
 woman in white marble, in posture of a 
 laundress wringing water out of a piece of 
 linen, very naturally formed, into a vast 
 laver, the work and invention of M. Angelo 
 Buonarotti. 2 Hence, we ascended Mount 
 
 1 [Not hitherto mentioned.] 
 
 2 [Sir Henry Wotton describes this a " matchlesse 
 pattern " of a " figured Fountain, . . . done by the 
 famous hand of Michael Angelo da Buonaroti, in 
 the figure of a sturdy woman, washing and wind- 
 ing of linen cloths ; in which Act, she wrings out the 
 water that made the Fountain, which was a grace- 
 
 Parnassus, where the Muses played to us 
 on hydraulic organs. Near this is a great 
 aviary. All these waters came from the 
 rock in the garden, on which is the statue 
 of a giant l representing the Apennines, at 
 the foot of which stands this villa. Last of 
 all, we came to the labyrinth, in which a 
 huge coloss of Jupiter throws out a stream 
 over the garden. This is fifty feet in height, 
 having in his body a square chamber, his 
 eyes and mouth serving for windows and 
 door. 
 
 We took horse and supped that night at 
 II Fonte, passing a dreadful ridge of the 
 Apennines, in many places capped with 
 snow, which covers them the whole summer. 
 We then descended into a luxurious and 
 rich plain. The next day we passed 
 through Scarperia, mounting the hills again, 
 where the passage is so straight and pre- 
 cipitous towards the right hand, that we 
 climbed them with much care and danger ; 
 lodging at Fiorenzuola, which is a fort 
 built amongst the rocks, and defending 
 the confines of the Great Duke's territories. 
 
 The next day we passed by the Pietra 
 Mala, a burning mountain. At the summit 
 of this prodigious mass of hills, we had an 
 unpleasant way to Pianoro, where we slept 
 that night and were entertained with 
 excellent wine. Hence to Scarica I s Asino, 
 and to bed at Lojano. This plain begins 
 about six miles from Bologna. 
 
 Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a 
 famous University, situate in one of the 
 richest spots of Europe for all sorts of 
 provisions. It is built like a ship, whereof 
 the Torre d' Asinelli may go for the main- 
 mast. The city is of no great strength, 
 having a trifling wall about it, in circuit 
 
 ful and natural conceit in the Artificer, implying 
 this rule ; That all designs of this kind, should be 
 prober" (Re liquice Wottoniance, 1685, p. 65). He 
 also praises the water arch as "An Invention for 
 refreshment, surely far excelling a\\ the Alexandrian 
 Delicacies, and Pneumaticks of Hero " lib. pp. 
 65-66).] 
 
 1 [The giant rock at Pratolino, "roughly hewn 
 out into the outlines of human form," of which 
 Walpole writes to Chute, 20th August, 1743. 
 Reresby refers to it as follows: — "In the upper 
 part of this garden stands the statue of a giant, 
 forty -five ells in height; about him are several 
 nymphs, carved in stone, casting out water" 
 (Tra7>els, 1831, p. 91). He also mentions the arch 
 of water, p. 90 ; and the statue of the laundress 
 which, " by the turning of a cock, beats a buck [i.e. 
 a tub or basket of linen] with a battledore, and 
 turns clothes with the left hand " (p. 91).] 
 
1045J 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 "5 
 
 near five miles, and two in length. This 
 Torre d' Asinelli, ascended by 447 steps of 
 a foot rise, seems exceedingly high, is very 
 narrow, and the more conspicuous from 
 another tower called Garisendi, so arti- 
 ficially built of brick (which increases 
 the wonder), that it seems ready to fall. 
 It is not now so high as the other ; but 
 they say the upper part was formerly 
 taken down, for fear it should really fall 
 and do mischief. 
 
 Next, we went to see an imperfect church, 
 called St. Petronius, showing the intent of 
 the founder had he gone on. From this, 
 our guide led us to the schools, which 
 indeed are very magnificent. Thence to 
 St. Dominic's, where that saint's body lies 
 richly enshrined. The stalls, or seats, of 
 this goodly church have the history of the 
 Bible inlaid with several woods, very 
 curiously done, the work of one Fr. Damiano 
 di Bergamo, and a friar of that order. 1 
 Amongst other relics, they show the two 
 books of Esdras, written with his own 
 hand. Here lie buried Jac. Andreas, 2 and 
 divers other learned persons. To the 
 church joins the convent, in the quadrangle 
 whereof are old cypresses, said to have 
 been planted by their saint. / 
 
 Then we went to the Palace of the 
 Legate ; a fair brick building, as are most 
 of the houses and buildings, full of excellent 
 carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone 
 seems to be better finished or more orna- 
 mental ; 3 witness those excellent columns 
 to be seen in many of their churches, 
 convents, and public buildings ; for the 
 whole town is so cloistered, that one may 
 pass from house to house through the 
 streets without being exposed either to 
 rain, or sun. 
 
 Before the stately hall of this Palace 
 stands the statue of Paul IV. and divers 
 others ; also the monument of the corona- 
 
 1 ["This kind of Mosaick work in wood was 
 anciently (sayth Vasari) called Tarsia, and in this 
 kind of worke Brunelleschi and Maiano did good 
 things in Florence" (Lassels, i. p. 143).] 
 
 2 (John Andreas, 1275-1348, canonist at Bologna.] 
 
 3 [Here (according to Lassels, i. p. 147) was the 
 " rare Cabinet and Study " of the great Aldrovandus, 
 which Evelyn does not seem to have seen. It is 
 also mentioned in 1665 by Edward Browne. "I 
 saw Aldrovandi musaeum, where are the greatest 
 collection of naturall things I ever saw ; and besides 
 bookes painted of all sorts of annimalls, there are 
 twelve large folios of plants, most exquisitely 
 painted" (Sir T. Browne's Works, 1836, i. 89).] 
 
 tion of Charles V. The piazza before it 
 is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's a1 
 Venice only excepted. In the centre of it 
 is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure in 
 copper. Here I saw a Persian walking 
 about in a rich vest of cloth of tissue, anc 
 several other ornaments, according to the 
 fashion of his country, which much pleasec 
 me ; 1 he was a young handsome person, 
 of the most stately mien. 
 
 I would fain have seen the library o 
 St. Saviour, famous for the number o 
 rare manuscripts ; but could not, so we 
 went to St. Francis, a glorious pile, anc 
 exceedingly adorned within. 
 
 After dinner, I inquired out a priest anc 
 Dr. Montalbano, to whom I brougb 
 recommendations from Rome ; this learnec 
 person invented, or found out, the com 
 position of the lapis illuminabilis, oi 
 phosphorus. He showed me their propert) 
 (for he had several), being to retain the 
 light of the sun for some competent time, 
 by a kind of imbibition, by a particular waj 
 of calcination. Some of these presentee 
 a blue colour, like the flame of brimstone, 
 others like coals of a kitchen fire. The 
 rest of the afternoon was taken up in St. 
 Michael in Bosco, built on a steep hill or 
 the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasani 
 shade and groves, cellars, dormitory, anc 
 prospects, one of the most delicious retire 
 ments I ever saw ; art and nature contend 
 ing which shall exceed ; so as till now ] 
 never envied the life of a friar. The whole 
 town and country to a vast extent are 
 under command of their eyes, almost as 
 far as Venice itself. In this convent there 
 are many excellent paintings of Guide 
 Reni ; * 2 above all, the little cloister o: 
 eight faces, painted by Caracci 3 in fresco. 
 The carvings in wood, in the sacristy, are 
 admirable, as is the inlaid work about the 
 chapel, which even emulates the besl 
 paintings ; the work is so delicate anc: 
 tender. The paintings of the Saviour are 
 of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are 
 excellent things of Raphael which we 
 could not see. 
 
 In the Church of St. John is a fine piece 
 
 1 [This dress, for a brief space, was adopted bj 
 the court of Charles II. (see post, under i8tl 
 October, 1666).] 
 
 2 [Guido Reni, 1575-1642, was a Bolognese, anc 
 died at Bologna.] 
 
 3 [Lodovico Caracci, 1555-1619.] 
 
u6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 of St. Cecilia, by Raphael. 1 As to other 
 paintings, there is in the Church of St. 
 Gregory an excellent picture of a Bishop 
 giving the habit of St. Bernard to an 
 armed soldier, with several other figures in 
 the piece, the work of Guercino. Indeed, 
 this city is full of rare pieces, especially of 
 Guido Domenico, and a virgin named 
 Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted 
 many excellent pieces, and imitates Guido 
 so well, that many skilful artists have been 
 deceived. 2 
 
 At the Mendicants are the Miracles of 
 St. Eloy, by Reni, after the manner of 
 Caravaggio, but better ; and here they 
 showed us that famous piece of Christ 
 calling St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. 
 The Marquis Magniani has the whole 
 frieze of his hall painted in fresco by the 
 same hand. 
 
 Many of the religious men nourish those 
 lap-dogs which the ladies are so fond of, 
 and which they here sell. They are a 
 pigmy sort of spaniels, whose noses they 
 break when puppies ; which in my opinion 
 deforms them. 
 
 At the end of the turning in one of the 
 wings of the dormitory of St. Michael, I 
 found a paper pasted near the window, 
 containing the dimensions of most of the 
 famous churches in Italy compared with 
 their towers here, and the length of this 
 gallery, a copy whereof I took. 
 
 
 Braccia. 3 
 
 Piedi di 
 Bolognia. 
 
 Canna di 
 Roma. 
 
 St. PietrodiRoma, 
 
 longo 
 Cupalo del muro, 
 
 alta 
 Torre d' Asinello, 
 
 alto 
 Dormitorio de St. 
 
 Mich, a Bologn. 
 
 longo 
 
 284 
 
 2IO 
 
 208f 
 
 254 
 
 473 
 35° 
 348 
 423 
 
 84 
 60 
 59 pr.mi 6 
 
 1 [Now in the Gallery of Bologna. There is a 
 famous engraving of the original drawing by Marc 
 Antonio.] 
 
 2 Giovanni Andrea Sirani, a Bolognese artist, 
 1610-70, had three daughters. The most cele- 
 brated, Elizabetta, born 1638, and died August 
 1665, is the lady alluded to by Evelyn as having 
 been so famous a copyist of Guido, of whom her 
 father was a pupil and imitator. Her sisters, 
 Anna and Barbara, were also artists, but never 
 reached the excellence of Elizabetta. 
 
 A A measure of half an ell. 
 
 From hence, being brought to a sub- 
 terranean territory of cellars, the courteous 
 friars made us taste a variety of excellent 
 wines ; and so we departed to our inn. 
 
 The city is famous also for sausages ; 
 and here is sold great quantities of 
 Parmegiano cheese, with botargo, 1 caviare, 
 etc., which make some of their shops 
 perfume the streets with no agreeable 
 smell. We furnished ourselves with wash- 
 balls, the best being made here, and being 
 a considerable commodity. This place has 
 also been celebrated for lutes made by the 
 old masters, Mollen, Hans Fries, and 
 Nicholas Sconvelt, which were of extra- 
 ordinary price ; the workmen were chiefly 
 Germans. The cattle used for draught in 
 this country (which is very rich and fertile, 
 especially in pasturage) are covered with 
 housings of linen fringed at the bottom, 
 that dangle about them, preserving them 
 from flies, which in summer are very 
 troublesome. 
 
 From this pleasant city, we proceeded 
 towards Ferrara, carrying with us a 
 bulletino, or bill of health (customary in 
 all these parts of Italy, especially in the 
 State of Venice), and so put ourselves into 
 a boat that was towed with horses, often 
 interrupted by the sluices (inventions there 
 to raise the water for the use of mills, and 
 to fill the artificial canals) at every [one] of 
 which we stayed till passage was made. 
 We went by the Castle Bentivoglio, 2 and, 
 about night, arrived at an ugly inn called 
 Mai Albergo, agreeable to its name, 
 whence, after we had supped, we embarked 
 and passed that night through the Fens, 
 where we were so pestered with those 
 flying glow-worms, called lucciole, that 
 one who had never heard of them, would 
 think the country full of sparks of fire. 
 Beating some of them down, and applying 
 them to a book, I could read in the dark 
 by the light they afforded. 
 
 1 [Botargos — the boutargues of Rabelais — are 
 sausages made with mullet or tunny roe, provoking 
 thirst. In some verses on observing Lent, Howell 
 seems to include Botargos in a Lenten diet : — 
 
 Not to let down Lamb, Kid or Veal, 
 Hen, Plover, Turkey-cock or Teal, 
 And eat Botargo, Caviar, 
 Anchovies, Oysters and like fare — 
 
 is, he _ contends, _ but " to play the juggling 
 Hypocrite " in fasting {Familiar Letters, Bk. IV. 
 Letter v.).] 2 [See ante, p. 104.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 117 
 
 Quitting our boat, we took coach, and 
 by morning got to Ferrara, where, before 
 we could gain entrance, our guns and 
 arms were taken from us of custom, the 
 lock being taken off before, as we were 
 advised. The city is in a low marshy 
 country, and therefore well fortified. The 
 houses and streets have nothing of beauty, 
 except the palace and church of St. 
 Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried, 1 and 
 there are some good statues, the Palazzo 
 del Diamante,' 2 citadel, church of St. 
 Dominico. The market - place is very 
 spacious, having in its centre the figure 
 of Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, 
 on horseback, in copper. It is, in a word, 
 a dirty town, and, though the streets be 
 large, they remain ill paved ; yet it is a 
 University, and now belongs to the Pope. 
 Though there are not many fine houses in 
 the city, the inn where we lodged was a 
 very noble palace, having an Angel for its 
 sign. 
 
 We parted from hence about three in the 
 afternoon, and went some of our way on 
 the canal, and then embarked on the Po, 
 or Padus, by the poets called Eridanus, 
 where they feign Phaeton to have fallen 
 after his rash attempt, and where Io was 
 metamorphosed into a cow. There was in 
 our company, amongst others, a Polonian 
 Bishop, who was exceeding civil to me in 
 this passage, and afterwards did me many 
 kindnesses at Venice. We supped this 
 night at a place called Corbola, near the 
 ruins of the ancient city, Adria, which 
 gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After 
 three miles, having passed thirty on the 
 Po, we embarked in a stout vessel, and 
 through an artificial canal, very straight, 
 we entered the Adige, which carried us 
 by break of day into the Adriatic, and so 
 sailing prosperously by Chioggia (a town 
 upon an island in this sea), and Pelestrina, 
 we came over against Malamocco (the 
 chief port and anchorage where our English 
 merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) 
 about seven at night, after we had stayed 
 at least two hours for permission to land, 
 
 1 [" I saw also Ariosto's tomb, in the Benedictine's 
 church," says Edward Browne in 1665, "and a 
 good comedie at night " (Sir T. Browne's Works, 
 1836, i. 90). The poet's house still stands in the 
 Via die Ariostei at Ferrara.] 
 
 2 [Of white marble "cut diamant wise into 
 sharp points " (Lassels, ii. p. 359).] 
 
 our bill of health being delivered, according 
 to custom. So soon as we came on shore, 
 we were conducted to the Dogana, where 
 our portmanteaus were visited, and then 
 we got to our lodging, which was at 
 honest Signor Paulo Rhodom ante's at the 
 Black Eagle, near the Rialto, one of the 
 best quarters of the town. This journey 
 from Rome to Venice cost me seven 
 pistoles, and thirteen julios. 
 
 June. The next morning, finding my- 
 self extremely weary and beaten with my 
 journey, I went to one of their bagnios, 
 where you are treated after the eastern 
 manner, washing with hot and cold water, 
 with oils, and being rubbed with a kind 
 of strigil of seal's skin, put on the operator's 
 hand like a glove. This bath did so open 
 my pores, that it cost me one of the greatest 
 colds I ever had in my life, for want of 
 necessary caution in keeping myself warm 
 for some time after ; for, coming out, L 
 immediately began to visit the famous 
 places of the city ; and travellers who come 
 into Italy do nothing but run up and down 
 to see sights, and this city well deserved 
 our admiration, being the most wonderfully 
 placed of any in the world, built on so 
 many hundred islands, in the very sea, and 
 at good distance from the continent. It 
 has no fresh water, except what is reserved 
 in cisterns from rain, and such as is daily 
 brought from terra fir ma in boats, yet 
 there was no want of it, and all sorts of 
 excellent provisions were very cheap. 
 
 It is said that when the Huns overran 
 Italy, some mean fishermen and others left 
 the mainland, and fled for shelter to these 
 despicable and muddy islands, which, in 
 process of time, by industry are grown 
 to the greatness of one of the most con- 
 siderable States, considered as a Republic, 
 and having now subsisted longer than any 
 of the four ancient Monarchies, flourishing 
 in great state, wealth, and glory, by the 
 conquest of great territories in Italy, 
 Dacia, Greece, Candia, Rhodes, and 
 Sclavonia, and at present challenging the 
 empire of all the Adriatic Sea, which they 
 yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into 
 it with great pomp and ceremony, on 
 Ascension-day ; the desire of seeing this 
 was one of the reasons that hastened us 
 from Rome. 
 
 The Doge, having heard mass in his 
 
u8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 robes of state (which are very particular, 
 after the eastern fashion), together with 
 the Senate in their gowns, embarked in 
 their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded 
 Bucentaur, environed and followed by 
 innumerable galleys, gondolas, and boats, 
 filled with spectators, some dressed in 
 masquerade, trumpets, music, and cannons. 
 Having rowed about a league into the 
 Gulf, the Duke, at the prow, casts a gold 
 ring and cup into the sea, at which a loud 
 acclamation is echoed from the great guns 
 of the Arsenal and at the Lido. We then 
 returned. 
 
 Two days after, taking a gondola, which 
 is their water-coach (for land ones, there 
 are many old men in this city who never 
 saw one, or rarely a horse), we rowed up 
 and down the channels, which answer to 
 our streets. These vessels are built very 
 long and narrow, having necks and tails of 
 steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like 
 a fish's tail, and kept so exceedingly 
 polished as to give a great lustre ; some 
 are adorned with carving, others lined with 
 velvet (commonly black), with curtains and 
 tassels, and the seats like couches, to lie 
 stretched on, while he who rows, stands 
 upright on the very edge of the boat, and, 
 with one oar bending forward as if he 
 would fall into the sea, rows and turns 
 with incredible dexterity : thus passing 
 from channel to channel, landing his fare, 
 or patron, at what house he pleases. The 
 beaks of these vessels are not unlike the 
 ancient Roman rostrums. 
 
 The first public building I went to see 
 was the Rialto, a bridge of one arch over 
 the grand canal, so large as to admit a 
 galley to row under it, built of good 
 marble, and having on it, besides many 
 pretty shops, three ample and stately 
 passages for people without any incon- 
 venience, the two utmost nobly balustred 
 with the same stone ; a piece of architecture 
 much to be admired. It was evening, and 
 the canal where the nohlesse go to take 
 the air, as in our Hyde Park, was full of 
 ladies and gentlemen. There are many 
 times dangerous stops, by reason of the 
 multitude of gondolas ready to sink one 
 another ; and indeed they effect to lean 
 them on one side, that one who is not 
 accustomed to it, would be afraid of over- 
 setting. Here they were singing, playing 
 
 on harpsichords, and other music, and 
 serenading their mistresses ; in another 
 place, racing, and other pastimes on the 
 water, it being now exceeding hot. 
 
 Next day, I went to their Exchange, a 
 place like ours, frequented by merchants, 
 but nothing so magnificent : from thence, 
 my guide led me to theFondacodeiTedeschi, 
 which is their magazine, and here many of 
 the merchants, especially Germans, have 
 their lodging and diet, as in a college. 
 The outside of this stately fabric is painted 
 by Giorgione da Castelfranco, and Titian 
 himself. 
 
 Hence, I passed through the Merceria, 
 one of the most delicious streets in the 
 world for the sweetness of it, and is all 
 the way on both sides tapestried as it were 
 with cloth of gold, rich damasks and 
 other silks, which the shops expose and 
 hang before their houses from the first 
 floor, and with that variety that for near 
 half the year spent chiefly in this city, I 
 hardly remember to have seen the same 
 piece twice exposed ; to this add the 
 perfumes, apothecaries' shops, and the 
 innumerable cages of nightingales which 
 they keep, that entertain you with their 
 melody from shop to shop, so that shutting 
 your eyes, you would imagine yourself in 
 the country, when indeed you are in the 
 middle of the sea. It is almost as silent as 
 the middle of a field, there being neither 
 rattling of coaches nor trampling of horses. 
 This street, paved with brick, and exceed- 
 ingly clean, brought us through an arch 
 into the famous piazza of St. Mark. 
 
 Over this porch stands that admirable 
 clock, celebrated next to that of Strasburg 
 for its many movements ; amongst which, 
 about twelve and six, which are their 
 hours of Ave Maria, when all the town 
 are on their knees, come forth the three 
 Kings led by a star, and passing by the 
 image of Christ in his Mother's arms, dc 
 their reverence, and enter into the clock b) 
 another door. At the top of this turret, 
 another automaton strikes the quarters 
 An honest merchant told me that one da) 
 walking in the piazza, he saw the fellovi 
 who kept the clock struck with this hammei 
 so forcibly, as he was stooping his heac 
 near the bell, to mend something amiss ai 
 the instant of striking, that being stunned 
 he reeled over the battlements, and broke 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 119 
 
 his neck. The buildings in this piazza are 
 all arched, on pillars, paved within with 
 black and white polished marble, even to 
 the shops, the rest of the fabric as stately 
 as any in Europe, being not only marble, 
 but the architecture is of the famous Sanso- 
 vino, who lies buried in St. Jacomo, at the 
 end of the piazza. 1 The battlements of 
 this noble range of building are railed 
 with stone, and thick -set with excellent 
 statues, which add a great ornament. One 
 of the sides is yet much more Roman-like 
 than the other which regards the sea, and 
 where the church is placed. The other 
 range is plainly Gothic : and so we entered 
 into St. Mark's Church, before which stand 
 two brass pedestals exquisitely cast and 
 figured, which bear as many tall masts 
 painted red, on which, upon great festivals, 
 they hang flags and streamers. The church 
 is also Gothic ; yet for the preciousness of 
 the materials, being of several rich marbles, 
 abundance of porphyry, serpentine, etc., far 
 exceeding any in Rome, St. Peter's hardly 
 excepted. I much admired the splendid 
 history of our blessed Saviour, composed 
 all of mosaic over the facciata, below which 
 and over the chief gates are cast four horses 
 in copper as big as the life, the same that 
 formerly were transported from Rome by 
 Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by 
 the Venetians hither. 2 They are supported 
 by eight porphyry columns, of very great 
 size and value. Being come into the 
 Church, you see nothing, and tread on 
 nothing, but what is precious. The floor 
 is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, chalcedons, 
 jaspers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, 
 admirable also for the work ; the walls 
 sumptuously incrusted, and presenting to 
 the imagination the shapes of men, birds, 
 houses, flowers, and a thousand varieties. 
 The roof is of most excellent mosaic ; but 
 what most persons admire is the new work 
 of the emblematic tree at the other passage 
 out of the church. In the midst of this rich 
 volto rise five cupolas, the middle very 
 large and sustained by thirty-six marble 
 columns, eight of which are of precious 
 
 1 [Query,— St. Geminiano. It was pulled down 
 in 1809 ; and Sansovino's remains were removed 
 (Murray's Northern Italy, 1853, 303).] 
 
 2 " These horses " (says Lassels, ii. p. 405) " came 
 out of the shop, not out of the stable, of ' Lisippus, a 
 famous statuary in Greece, and were given to Nero 
 by Tiridates, King 0/ Armenia." 
 
 marbles ; under these cupolas is the high 
 altar, on which is a reliquary of several 
 sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, after 
 the Greek manner, and set together with 
 plates of pure gold. The altar is covered 
 with a canopy of ophite, on which is sculp- 
 tured the story of the Bible, and so on the 
 pillars, which are of Parian marble, that 
 support it. Behind these, are four other 
 columns of transparent and true oriental 
 alabaster, brought hither out of the mines 
 of Solomon's Temple, as they report. 
 There are many chapels and notable monu- 
 ments of illustrious persons, dukes, car- 
 dinals, etc., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and 
 others ; there is likewise a vast baptistery, 
 of copper. Among other venerable relics 
 is a stone, on which they say our blessed 
 Lord stood preaching to those of Tyre and 
 Sidon, and near the door is an image of 
 Christ, much adorned, esteeming it very 
 sacred, for that a rude fellow striking it, 
 they say, there gushed out a torrent of 
 blood. In one of the corners lies the body 
 of St. Isidoro, brought hither 500 years 
 since from the island of Chios. A little 
 farther, they show the picture of St. 
 Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have 
 been made by the Abbot Joachim (many 
 years before any of them were born). 
 Going out of the Church, they showed us 
 the stone where Alexander III. trod on the 
 neck of the Emperor Frederick Barbaressa, 
 pronouncing that verse of the psalm, 
 ** super basiliscum" etc. The doors of the 
 church are of massy copper. There are 
 near 500 pillars in this building, most of 
 them porphyry and serpentine, and brought 
 chiefly from Athens, and other parts of 
 Greece, formerly in their power. At the 
 corner of the Church, are inserted into the 
 main wall four figures, as big as life, cut in 
 porphyry ; which they say are the images 
 of four brothers who poisoned one another, 
 by which means were escheated to the 
 Republic that vast treasury of relics now 
 belonging to the Church. 1 At the other 
 entrance that looks towards the sea, stands 
 
 1 [Lassels calls them (ii. p. 403) " four merchants 
 and strangers, who afterwards poysoning one 
 another, out of covetousness, left this State heire 
 of all." Coryat, who speaks of them in 1608 as 
 "foure Noble Gentlemen of Albania that were 
 brothers," also tells the story, to which his attention 
 was directed by Sir Henry Wotton (Crudities, 
 1776, i. pp. 239-41).] 
 
120 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 in a small chapel that statue of our Lady, 
 made (as they affirm) of the same stone, or 
 rock, out of which Moses brought water to 
 the murmuring Israelites at Horeb, or 
 Meribah. 
 
 After all that is said, this church is, in 
 my opinion, much too dark and dismal, 
 and of heavy work, the fabric, — as is much 
 of Venice, both for buildings and other 
 fashions and circumstances, — after the 
 Greeks, their next neighbours. 
 
 The next day, by favour of the French 
 ambassador, I had admittance with him to 
 view the Reliquary, called here Tesoro di 
 San Marco, which very few, even of travel- 
 lers, are admitted to see. It is a large 
 chamber full of presses. There are twelve 
 breast - plates or pieces of pure golden 
 armour, studded with precious stones, and 
 as many crowns dedicated to St. Mark, by 
 so many noble Venetians, who had re- 
 covered their wives taken at sea by the 
 Saracens : many curious vases of agates ; 
 the cap, or coronet, of the Duke of Venice, 
 one of which had a ruby set on it, esteemed 
 worth 200,000 crowns; two unicorns' 
 horns ; numerous vases and dishes of 
 agate, set thick with precious stones and 
 vast pearls ; divers heads of Saints, en- 
 chased in gold ; a small ampulla, or glass, 
 with our Saviour's blood ; a great morsel 
 of the real cross ; one of the nails ; a 
 thorn ; a fragment of the column to which 
 our Lord was bound, when scourged ; the 
 standard, or ensign, of Constantine ; a 
 piece of St. Luke's arm ; a rib of St. 
 Stephen ; a finger of Mary Magdalen ; 
 numerous other things, which I could not 
 remember. But a priest, first vesting him- 
 self in his sacerdotals, with the stole about 
 his neck, showed us the gospel of St. Mark 
 (their tutelar patron) written by his own 
 hand, and whose body they show buried 
 in the church, brought hither from Alex- 
 andria many years ago. 
 
 The Religious of the Servi have fine 
 paintings of Paolo Veronese, especially the 
 Magdalen. 
 
 A French gentleman and myself went to 
 the Courts of Justice, the Senate-house, 
 and Ducal Palace. The first court near 
 this church is almost wholly built of 
 several coloured sorts of marble, like 
 chequer-work on the outside ; this is sus- 
 tained by vast pillars, not" very shapely, 
 
 but observable for their capitals, and that 
 out of thirty-three no two are alike. Under 
 this fabric is the cloister where merchants 
 meet morning and evening, as also the 
 grave senators and gentlemen, to confer of 
 state-affairs, in their gowns and caps, like 
 so many philosophers ; it is a very noble 
 and solemn spectacle. In another quad- 
 rangle, stood two square columns of white 
 marble, carved, which they said had been 
 erected to hang one of their Dukes on, 
 who designed to make himself Sovereign. 
 Going through a stately arch, there were 
 standing in niches divers statues of great 
 value, amongst which is the so celebrated 
 Eve, esteemed worth its weight in gold ; 
 it is just opposite to the stairs where are 
 two Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, by 
 Sansovino. We went up into a corridor 
 built with several Tribunals and Courts of 
 Justice ; and by a well-contrived staircase 
 were landed in the Senate - hall, which 
 appears to be one of the most noble and 
 spacious rooms in Europe, being seventy- 
 six paces long, and thirty-two in breadth. 
 At the upper end, are the Tribunals of the 
 Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants : in 
 the body of the hall, are lower ranks of 
 seats, capable of containing 1 500 Senators ; 
 for they consist of no fewer on grand 
 debates. Over the Duke's throne are the 
 paintings of the " Final Judgment," by 
 Tintoret, esteemed among the best pieces 
 in Europe. On the roof are the famous 
 Acts of the Republic, painted by several 
 excellent masters, especially Bassano ; next 
 them, are the effigies of the several Dukes, 
 with their Eulogies. Then, we turned 
 into a great Court painted with the Battle 
 of Lepanto, an excellent piece ; 1 after- 
 wards, into the Chamber of the Council 
 of Ten, painted by the most celebrated 
 masters. From hence, by the special 
 favour of an Illustrissimo, we were carried 
 to see the private Armoury of the Palace, 
 and so to the same court we first entered, 
 nobly built of polished white marble, part 
 
 1 [" Vicentino's commemorative painting still 
 decorates the Hall of Scrutiny in Venice ; but 
 the more celebrated picture of Tintoretto has 
 mysteriously disappeared " (Fitzmaurice - Kelly's 
 Life of Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, 1892, p. 
 32). According to Mrs. Charles Roundell's Ham 
 House, its History and Treasures, 1904, i. 25, 
 Tintoretto's picture is in the Ham House gallery. 
 See ante, p. 85.] 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 121 
 
 of which is the Duke's Court, pro tempore ; 
 there are two wells adorned with excellent 
 work, in copper. This led us to the sea- 
 side, where stand those columns of ophite- 
 stone 1 in the entire piece, of a great height, 
 one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other 
 St. Theodorus ; these pillars were brought 
 from Greece, and set up by Nicholas 
 Baraterius, the architect ; between them 
 public executions are performed. < 
 
 Having fed our eyes with the noble 
 prospect of the Island of St. George, the 
 galleys, gondolas, and other vessels passing 
 to and fro, we walked under the cloister 
 on the other side of this goodly piazza, 
 being a most magnificent building, the 
 design of Sansovino. Here we went into 
 the Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance, stand 
 two prodigious giants, or Hercules, of 
 white marble : we saw them melt, beat, 
 and coin silver, gold, and copper. We 
 then went up into the Procuratory, and 
 a library of excellent MSS. and books 
 belonging to it and the public. After 
 this, we climbed up the tower of St. Mark, 
 which we might have done on horseback, 
 as it is said one of the French Kings did ; 
 there being no stairs, or steps, but returns 
 that take up an entire square on the arches 
 forty feet, broad enough for a coach. This 
 steeple stands by itself, without any church 
 near it, and is rather a watch-tower in the 
 corner of the great piazza, 230 feet in 
 height, the foundation exceeding deep ; on 
 the top, is an angel, that turns with the 
 wind ; and from hence is a prospect down 
 the Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dal- 
 matian side, with the surprising sight of 
 this miraculous city, lying in the bosom of 
 the sea, in the shape of a lute, the number- 
 less Islands tacked together by no fewer 
 than 450 bridges. At the foot of this 
 tower, is a public tribunal of excellent 
 work, in white marble polished, adorned 
 with several brass statues and figures of 
 stone and mezzo-rilievo, the performance of 
 some rare artist. 
 
 It was now Ascension-week, and the 
 great mart, or fair, of the whole year was 
 kept, everybody at liberty and jolly ; the 
 noblemen stalking with their ladies on 
 choppines 2 These are high-heeled shoes, 
 
 1 [Murray says " granite."] 
 
 2 [The chopine was a stilt-like clog, sometimes 
 cirhteen inches high, worn by the ladies of 
 
 particularly affected by these proud dames, 
 or, as some say, invented to keep them 
 at home, it being very difficult to walk 
 with them ; whence, one being asked how 
 he liked the Venetian dames, replied, they 
 were mezzo came, mezzo legno, half flesh, 
 half wood, and he would have none of 
 them. The truth is, their garb is very 
 odd, as seeming always in masquerade ; 
 their other habits also totally different from 
 all nations. They wear very long crisp 
 hair, of several streaks and colours, which 
 they make so by a wash, dishevelling it 
 on the brims of a broad hat that has no 
 crown, but a hole to put out their heads 
 by ; they dry them in the sun, as one may 
 see them at their windows. In their tire, 
 they set silk flowers and sparkling stones, 
 their petticoats coming from their very 
 arm -pits, so that they are near three- 
 quarters and a half apron ; their sleeves 
 are made exceeding wide, under which 
 their shift-sleeves as wide, and commonly 
 tucked up to the shoulder, showing their 
 naked arms, through false sleeves of tiffany, 
 girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of 
 point richly tagged about their shoulders 
 and other places of their body, which they 
 usually cover with a kind of yellow veil, 
 of lawn, very transparent. Thus attired, 
 they set their hands on the heads of two 
 matron-like servants, or old women, to 
 support them, who are mumbling their 
 beads. It is ridiculous to see how these 
 ladies crawl in and out of their gondolas, 
 by reason of their choppines ; and what 
 dwarfs they appear, when taken down 
 from their wooden scaffolds ; of these I 
 saw near thirty together, stalking half as 
 high again as the rest of the world. For 
 courtesans, or the citizens, may not wear 
 choppines, but cover their bodies and faces 
 with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or 
 lustre'e, out of which they now and then 
 dart a glance of their eye, the whole face 
 being otherwise entirely hid with it : nor 
 may the common misses take this habit ; 
 but go abroad barefaced. To the corner 
 
 Spain and Italy. There is a long account of 
 " Chapineys " (as he calls them) in Coryat {Crudi- 
 ties, 1776, ii. p. 36). Shakespeare refers to them 
 in Hamlet, Act II. Sc. ii. " Your Ladyship is 
 nearer to Heaven than when I saw you last, by 
 the altitude of a chopine" says the Prince to the 
 boy who took the female part in the Murder of 
 Gonzago.\ 
 
122 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 ["1645 
 
 of these virgin-veils hang broad but flat 
 tassels of curious point de Venise. The 
 married women go in black veils. The 
 nobility wear the same colour, but a fine 
 cloth lined with taffeta, in summer, with 
 fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the winter, 
 which all put on at a certain day, girt with 
 a girdle embossed with silver ; the vest not 
 much different from what our Bachelors of 
 Arts wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, 
 made like a sack, cast over their left 
 shoulder, and a round cloth black cap 
 fringed with wool, which is not so comely ; 
 they also wear their collar open, to show 
 the diamond button of the stock of their 
 shirt. I have never seen pearl for colour 
 and bigness comparable to what the ladies 
 wear, most of the noble families being very 
 rich in jewels, especially pearls, which are 
 always left to the son, or brother who is 
 destined to marry ; which the eldest seldom 
 do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, 
 the Procurator's, etc., of damask, very 
 stately. Nor was I less surprised with the 
 strange variety of the several nations seen 
 every day in the streets and piazzas ; Jews, 
 Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moors, Greeks, 
 Sclavonians, some with their targets and 
 bucklers, and all in their native fashions, 
 negotiating in this famous emporium, which 
 is always crowded with strangers. 
 
 This night, having with my Lord Bruce 1 
 taken our places before, we went to the 
 Opera, where comedies and other plays 
 are represented in recitative music, by the 
 most excellent musicians, vocal and instru- 
 mental, with a variety of scenes painted 
 and contrived with no less art of perspec- 
 tive, and machines for flying in the air, and 
 other wonderful notions ; taken together, 
 it is one of the most magnificent and ex- 
 pensive diversions the wit of man can 
 invent. The history was Hercules in 
 Lydia ; the scenes changed thirteen times. 
 The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, 
 and reputed the best treble of women ; but 
 there was an eunuch who, in my opinion, 
 surpassed her ; also a Genoese that sung 
 an incomparable bass. This held us by 
 the eyes and ears till two in the morning, 
 
 l Thomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scot- 
 land ; created by Charles I. on the 13th July, 
 1640, Baron Bruce, of Whorlton, Yorkshire, in the 
 English peerage. He died in 1663 (see post, 
 under 14th February, 1656, and 9th January, 
 1684). 
 
 when we went to the Chetto de San 
 Felice, to see the noblemen and their 
 ladies at basset, a game at cards which is 
 much used ; but they play not in public, 
 and all that have inclination to it are in 
 masquerade, without speaking one word, 
 and so they come in, play, lose or gain, 
 and go away as they please. This time of 
 licence is only in Carnival and this Ascen- 
 sion-week ; neither are their theatres open 
 for that other magnificence, or for ordinary 
 comedians, save on these solemnities, they 
 being a frugal and wise people, and exact 
 observers of all sumptuary laws. 
 
 There being at this time a ship bound 
 for the Holy Land, I had resolved to 
 embark, intending to see Jerusalem, and 
 other parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey ; 
 but after I had provided all necessaries, 
 laid in snow to cool our drink, bought 
 some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a 
 little cabinet of drugs, in case of sickness, 
 our vessel (whereof Captain Powell was 
 master) happened to be pressed for the 
 service of the State, to carry provisions to 
 Candia, now newly attacked by the Turks ; 
 which altogether frustrated my design, to 
 my great mortification. 
 
 On the . . . June, we went to Padua, 
 to the fair of their St. Anthony, in com- 
 pany of divers passengers. The first terra 
 firma we landed at was Fusina, being only 
 an inn where we changed our barge, and 
 were then drawn up by horses through the 
 river Brenta, a straight channel as even as 
 a line for twenty miles, the country on 
 both sides deliciously adorned with coun- 
 try villas and gentlemen's retirements, 
 gardens planted with oranges, figs, and 
 other fruit, belonging to the Venetians. 
 At one of these villas we went ashore to 
 see a pretty contrived palace. Observable 
 in this passage was buying their water of 
 those who farm the sluices ; for this 
 artificial river is in some places so shallow, 
 that reserves of water are kept with sluices, 
 which they open and shut with a most 
 ingenious invention, or engine, governed 
 even by a child. Thus they keep up the 
 water, or let it go till the next channel be 
 either filled by the stop, or abated to the 
 level of the other ; for which every boat 
 pays a certain duty. Thus, we stayed 
 near half an hour and more, at three 
 several places, so as it was evening before 
 
1645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 123 
 
 we got to Padua. This is a very ancient 
 city, if the tradition of Antenor's being 
 the founder be not a fiction; but thus 
 speaks the inscription over a stately gate : 
 
 Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum 
 omnium asylum, cujus agrum fertilitatis 
 Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor con- 
 didit, an'o ante Christum natum M.Cxviii ; 
 Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugna- 
 culis ornavit. 
 
 The town stands on the river Padus, 
 whence its name, and is generally built 
 like Bologna, on arches and on brick, so 
 that one may walk all round it, dry, and 
 in the shade ; which is very convenient 
 in these hot countries, and I think I was 
 never sensible of so burning a heat as I 
 was this season, especially the next day, 
 which was that of the fair, filled with 
 noble Venetians, by reason of a great and 
 solemn procession to their famous cathe- 
 dral. Passing by St. Lorenzo, I met with 
 this inscription : 
 
 Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem l 
 Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq ; fuga, 
 
 Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, 
 Quern, tegit hie humili marmore casa domus. 
 
 Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his 
 work. Being now come to St. Anthony's 
 (the street most of the way straight, well- 
 built, and outside excellently painted in 
 fresco) we surveyed the spacious piazza, in 
 which is erected a noble statue of copper 
 of a man on horseback, in memory of 
 one Gattamelata, 2 a renowned captain. 
 The church, a la Greca, consists of five 
 handsome cupolas, leaded. At the left 
 hand within is the tomb of St. Anthony 
 and his altar, about which a mezzo-rilievo 
 of the miracles ascribed to him is exquisitely 
 wrought in white marble by the three 
 famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, 
 Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieronymus 
 Compagno. A little higher is the choir, 
 walled parapet - fashion, with sundry 
 coloured stone, half rilievo, the work of 
 Andrea Reccio. The altar within is of 
 
 1 Keysler very justly observes {Travels, 1760, 
 iii. p. 399), that the first line of this inscription 
 conveys no meaning. 
 
 2 Lassels (ii. p. 429) calls him Gatta Mela, the 
 Venetian General, nicknamed Gatta [cat], because 
 of his watchfulness. His tomb was in St. Anthony's 
 church, and his armour with a cat in his headpiece, 
 in the Arsenal. 
 
 the same metal, which, with the candle- 
 stick and bases, is, in my opinion, as 
 magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot 
 of the choir is rarely inlaid and carved. 
 Here are the sepulchres of many famous 
 persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, etc. ; 
 and, among the rest, one for an exploit at 
 sea, has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. 
 The procession bore the banners with all 
 the treasure of the cloister, which was a 
 very fine sight. 
 
 Hence, walking over the Prato delle 
 Valle, I went to see the convent of St. 
 Justina, than which I never beheld one 
 more magnificent. The church is an 
 excellent piece of architecture, of Andrea 
 Palladio, richly paved, with a stately 
 cupola that covers the high altar enshrining 
 the ashes of that saint. It is of pietra- 
 commessa, 1 consisting of flowers very 
 naturally done. The choir is inlaid with 
 several sorts of wood representing the holy 
 history, finished with exceeding industry. 2 
 At the far end, is that rare painting of St. 
 Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo Veronese ; 
 and a stone on which they told us divers 
 primitive Christians had been decapitated. 
 In another place (to which leads a small 
 cloister well painted) is a dry well covered 
 with a brass-work grate, wherein are the 
 bones of divers martyrs. They show also 
 the bones of St. Luke, in an old alabaster 
 coffin ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and 
 the bodies of St. Maximus and Pros- 
 docimus. 3 The dormitory above is ex- 
 ceedingly commodious and stately ; but 
 what most pleased me, was the old cloister 
 so well painted with the legendary saints, 
 mingled with many ancient inscriptions, 
 and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the 
 foundation of the church. Thus, having 
 spent the day in rambles, I returned the 
 next day to Venice. 
 
 The arsenal is thought to be one of the 
 best-furnished in the world. We entered 
 by a strong port, always guarded, and 
 ascending a spacious gallery, saw arms of 
 back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; 
 in another were saddles, over them, ensigns 
 taken from', the Turks. Another hall is 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 58.] 
 
 2 [Cf. account of St. Dominic's (ante, p. 115) 
 and St. Michael in Bosco (ante, p. 115) at 
 Bologna.] 
 
 3 St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua 
 (Lassels, ii. p. 430). 
 
124 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 for the meeting of the Senate ; passing a 
 graff, are the smiths' forges, where they 
 are continually employed on anchors and 
 iron work. Near it is a well of fresh 
 water, which they impute to two rhino- 
 ceros's horns which they say lie in it, and 
 will preserve it from ever being empoisoned. 
 Then we came to where the carpenters 
 were building their magazines of oars, 
 masts, etc., for an hundred galleys and 
 ships, which have all their apparel and 
 furniture near them. Then the foundry, 
 where they cast ordnance ; the forge is 
 450 paces long, and one of them has 
 thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon, 
 weighing 16,573 lbs., cast whilst Henry 
 the Third dined, and put into a galley 
 built, rigged, and fitted for launching 
 within that time. They have also arms 
 for twelve galeasses, which are vessels to 
 row, of almost 150 feet long, and thirty 
 wide, not counting prow or poop, and con- 
 tain twenty-eight banks of oar, each seven 
 men, and to carry 1300 men, with three 
 masts. In another, a magazine for fifty 
 galleys, and place for some hundreds 
 more. Here stands the Bucentaur, 1 with 
 a most ample deck, and so contrived that 
 the slaves are not seen, having on the 
 poop a throne for the Doge to sit, when he 
 goes in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. 
 Here is also a gallery of 200 yards long for 
 cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. 
 Opposite these, are the saltpetre houses, 
 and a large row of cells, or houses, to pro- 
 tect their galleys from the weather. Over 
 the gate, as we go out, is a room full of 
 great and small guns, some of which dis- 
 charge six times at once. 2 Then, there is 
 a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, 
 grapples, grenadoes, etc., and over that 
 arms for 800,000 men, and by themselves 
 arms for 400, taken from some that were 
 in a plot against the State ; together with 
 weapons of offence and defence for sixty- 
 two ships ; thirty-two pieces of ordnance, 
 on carriages taken from the Turks, and 
 one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, 
 it is not to be reckoned up what this large 
 place contains of this sort. There were 
 now twenty-three galleys, and four galley- 
 grossi, of 100 oars of a side. The whole 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 118.] 
 
 2 [Lassels speaks of a cannon "shooting three- 
 score shotts in ten barrels" (ii. p. 398).] 
 
 arsenal is walled about, and may be in 
 compass about three miles, with twelve 
 towers for the watch, besides that the sea 
 environs it. The workmen, who are 
 ordinarily 500, march out in military order, 
 and every evening receive their pay through 
 a small hole in the gate where the governor 
 lives. 
 
 The next day, I saw a wretch executed, 
 who had murdered his master, for which 
 he had his head chopped off by an axe that 
 slid down a frame of timber, 1 between the 
 two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at 
 the sea-brink ; 2 the executioner striking on 
 the axe with a beetle ; and so the head fell 
 off the block. 
 
 Hence, by Gudala, we went to see 
 Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is 
 excellent work. Indeed, the world cannot 
 show a city of more stately buildings, 3 
 considering the extent of it, all of square 
 stone, and as chargeable in their founda- 
 tions as superstructure, being all built on 
 piles at immense cost. We returned 
 home by the church of SS. Giovanni e 
 Paolo, before which is, in copper, the 
 statue of Bartolommeo Colleoni, on horse- 
 back, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, 
 the work of Andrea Verrochio, a Floren- 
 tine ! This is a very fine church, and has 
 in it many rare altar-pieces of the best 
 masters, especially that on the left hand, 
 of the Two Friars slain, 4 which is of 
 Titian. 
 
 The day after, being Sunday, I went 
 over to St. George's to the ceremony of 
 the schismatic Greeks, who are permitted 
 to have their church, though they are at 
 defiance with Rome. They allow no 
 carved images, but many painted, especially 
 the story of their patron and his dragon. 
 Their rites differ not much from the Latins, 
 save that of communicating in both species, 
 and distribution of the holy bread. We 
 afterwards fell into a dispute with a Candiot, 
 concerning the procession of the Holy 
 Ghost. The church is a noble fabric. 
 
 The church of St. Zachary is a Greek 
 
 1 The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the 
 guillotine in France, were constructed after the 
 same manner. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 121.] 
 
 3 ["The best are, of Justiniani, Mocenigo, 
 Grimani, Priuli, Contarini, Foscoli, Loredano % 
 Gussoni, and Cornaro " (Lassels, ii. p. 425).] 
 
 4 [St. John and St. Paul.] 
 
[645] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 125 
 
 wilding, by Leo IV., Emperor, and has 
 n it the bones of that prophet, with 
 livers other saints. Near this, we visited 
 St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of 
 tVretin. * 
 
 Tuesday, we visited several other 
 churches, as Santa Maria, newly incrusted 
 svith marble on the outside, and adorned 
 with porphyry, ophite, and Spartan stone. 
 Near the altar and under the organ, are 
 sculptures, that are said to be of the famous 
 irtist, Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul I 
 went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. 
 Then to St. John the Evangelist, where, 
 amongst other heroes, lies Andrea Baldarius, 
 the inventor of oars applied to great vessels 
 for fighting. 
 
 We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof 
 is, with the school, or hall, of that rich 
 confraternity, admirably painted by Tinto- 
 retto, especially the Crucifix in the sacristia. 
 We saw also the church of St. Sebastian, 
 and Carmelites' monastery. 
 
 Next day, taking our gondola at St. 
 Mark's, I passed to the island of S. Georgio 
 Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedic- 
 tines, and a well-built church of Andrea 
 Palladio, the great architect. The pave- 
 ment, cupola, choir, and pictures, very 
 rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a 
 fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at 
 Venice, though this is an island a little 
 distant from the city ; it has also an olive 
 orchard, all environed by the sea. The 
 new cloister now building has a noble stair- 
 case paved with white and black marble. 
 
 From hence, we visited St. Spirito, and 
 St. Laurence, fair churches in several 
 islands ; but most remarkable is that of 
 the Padri Olivetani, in St. Helen's island, 
 for the rare paintings and carvings, with 
 inlaid work, etc. 
 
 The next morning we went again to 
 Padua, where, on the following day, we 
 visited the market, which is plentifully 
 furnished, and exceedingly cheap. Here 
 we saw the great hall, 2 built in a spacious 
 piazza, and one of the most magnificent in 
 Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good 
 height, of a reddish marble polished, much 
 used in these parts, and happily found not 
 far off; it is almost 200 paces long, and 
 forty in breadth, all covered with lead, 
 
 * [The Italian satirist Peter Aretino, 1492-1557.] 
 2 [II Palazzo di Ragione (Lassels).] 
 
 without any support of columns. At the 
 farther end, stands the bust, in white 
 marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In 
 this town is the house wherein he was 
 born, full of inscriptions, and pretty fair. 
 
 Near to the monument of Sperone Sper- 
 oni, 1 is painted on the ceiling the celestial 
 zodiac, and other astronomical figures ; 
 withoutside, there is a corridor, in manner 
 of a balcony, of the same stone ; and" at 
 the entry of each of the three gates is the 
 head of some famous person, as Albert 
 Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and 
 Peter Aponius. In the piazza is the Pod- 
 esta's and Capitano Grande's Palace, well 
 built ; but, above all, the Monte Pieta, the 
 front whereof is of most excellent archi- 
 tecture. This is a foundation of which 
 there is one in most of the cities in Italy, 
 where there is a continual bank of money 
 to assist the poorer sort, on any pawn, and 
 at reasonable interest, together with maga- 
 zines for deposit of goods, till redeemed. 
 
 Hence, to the Schools of this flourishing 
 and ancient University, especially for the 
 study of physic and anatomy. They are 
 fairly built in quadrangle, with cloisters 
 beneath, and above with columns. Over 
 the great gate are the arms of the Venetian 
 State, and under, the lion of St. Mark. 
 
 Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior ; 
 sic egredere ut indies Patriae Christianaeq ; 
 Reipublicae utilior evadas ; ita demum Gym- 
 nasium a te feliciter se ornatum existimabit. 
 
 Cio. IX. 
 
 About the court -walls, are carved in 
 stone and painted the blazons of the Con- 
 suls of all the nations, that from time to 
 time have had that charge and honour in 
 the University, which at my being there 
 was my worthy friend Dr. Rogers, who 
 here took that degree. 2 
 
 The Schools for the lectures of the several 
 sciences are above, but none of them com- 
 parable, or so much frequented, as the 
 theatre for anatomy, which is excellently 
 contrived both for the dissector and spec- 
 tators. I was this day invited to dinner, 
 and in the afternoon (30th July), received 
 
 1 [Sperone Speroni, 1500-88, like Livy, was a 
 famous Paduan author.} 
 
 2 [Of Doctor in Physic (see post, under 15th 
 August, 1682). He was elected Consul of the 
 English, 1645-6, on August 1, 1645 ; and took his 
 M.D. degree, 1646.I 
 
126 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1645 
 
 my matriada, being resolved to spend some 
 months here at study, especially physic and 
 anatomy, of both which there were now the 
 most famous professors in Europe. My 
 niatricula contained a clause, that I, my 
 goods, servants, and messengers, should 
 be free from all tolls and reprises, and that 
 we might come, pass, return, buy, or sell, 
 without any toll, etc. 
 
 The next morning, I saw the garden of 
 simples, rarely furnished with plants, and 
 gave order to the gardener to make me a 
 collection of them for an hortus hyemalis^- 
 by permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslin- 
 gius, 2 then Prefect and Botanic Professor 
 as well as of Anatomy. 
 
 This morning, the Earl of Arundel, now 
 in this city, a famous collector of paintings 
 and antiquities, 8 invited me to go with him 
 to see the garden of Mantua, where, as one 
 enters, stands a huge coloss of Hercules. 
 From hence to a place where was a room 
 covered with a noble cupola, built pur- 
 posely for music ; the fillings up, or cove, 
 betwixt the walls, were of urns and earthen 
 pots, for the better sounding ; it was also 
 well painted. After dinner, we walked to 
 the Palace of Foscari all' Arena, there re- 
 maining yet some appearances of an ancient 
 theatre, though serving now for a court only 
 before the house. There were now kept in 
 it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, 
 a stag, and sundry fowls, as in a vivary. 
 
 Three days after, I returned to Venice, 
 
 1 [The Hortus siccus or hyemalis here described, 
 is still preserved at Wotton House (Bright's Dork- 
 ing, 1884, p. 315).] 
 
 2 John Vesling, 1598-1649, was born at Minden, 
 in Germany, and became Professor of Anatomy in 
 the University of Padua. Evelyn says that at his 
 visit he was anatomical and botanical professor, 
 and prefect. He had the care of the botanical 
 garden, and published a catalogue of its plants. 
 He wrote also Syntagma Anatomicum, 1641, and 
 shortly afterwards travelled into Egypt, where he 
 seems to have paid a good deal of attention to 
 the artificial means of hatching poultry, then an 
 Egyptian marvel (see also post, pp. 128 and 129). 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 9. "He was the first" — says 
 Walpole — "who professedly began to collect in 
 this country, and led the way to Prince Henry, 
 King Charles, and the Duke of Buckingham" 
 (Anecdotes 0/ Painting, 1762, ii. 72). Part of the 
 antiquities to which Evelyn refers were eventually 
 secured by him for the University of Oxford in 
 1667 (see post, under 19th September). John 
 Selden described the Arundel marbles in his Mar- 
 mora Arundelliana, 1628, afterwards incorporated 
 in H. Prideaux's Marvzora Oxoniensia ex Arun- 
 dellianis . . . conflata, 1676 (see post, 28th April 
 in that year).] 
 
 and passed over to Murano, famous for the 
 best glasses in the world, where having 
 viewed their furnaces, and seen their work, 
 I made a collection of divers curiosities and 
 glasses, which I sent for England by long 
 sea. It is the white flints they have from 
 Pavia, which they pound and sift exceed- 
 ingly small, and mix with ashes made of a 
 sea-weed brought out of Syria, and a white 
 sand, that causes this manufacture to excel. 
 The town is a Podestaria 1 by itself, at some 
 miles distant on the sea from Venice, and 
 like it built upon several small islands. In 
 this place, are excellent oysters, small and 
 well-tasted like our Colchester, and they 
 were the first, as I remember, that I ever 
 could eat ; for I had naturally an aversion 
 to them. 
 
 At our return to Venice, we met several 
 gondolas full of Venetian ladies, who come 
 thus far in fine weather to take the air, with 
 music and other refreshments. Besides 
 that, Murano is itself a very nobly built 
 town, and has divers noblemen's palaces 
 in it, and handsome gardens. 
 
 In coming back, we saw the islands of 
 St. Christopher and St. Michael, the last 
 of which has a church enriched and in- 
 crusted with marbles and other architec- 
 tonic ornaments, which the monks very 
 courteously showed us. It was built and 
 founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona, 
 a famous courtesan, who purchased a great 
 estate, and by this foundation hoped to 
 commute for her sins. We then rowed by 
 the isles of St. Nicholas, whose church, 
 with the monuments of the Justinian family, 
 entertained us awhile : and then got home. 
 
 The next morning, Captain Powell, 2 in 
 whose ship I was to embark towards 
 Turkey, invited me on board, lying about 
 ten miles from Venice, where we had a 
 dinner of English powdered beef a and 
 other good meat, with store of wine and 
 great guns, as the manner is. After 
 dinner, the Captain presented me with a 
 stone he had lately brought from Grand 
 Cairo, which he took from the mummy- 
 pits, full of hieroglyphics ; I drew it on 
 paper with the true dimensions, and sent 
 it in a letter to Mr. Henshaw to com- 
 
 1 [Burgh, or bailiwick.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 122.] 
 
 3 [Salted. Cf. Prior's Down Hall'. — "She 
 roasted red veal and she powder d lean beef."] 
 
i6 45 ] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 127 
 
 mumcate to Father Kircher, who was then 
 
 !?v" g i th his S reat work Obelisczis Pam- 
 phiLms^ W here it is described, but without 
 mentioning my name . The stone was 
 alter wards brought for me into England, 
 and landed at Wapping, where, before I 
 could hear of it, it was broken into several 
 fragments, and utterly defaced, to my no 
 small disappointment. 
 
 The boatswain of the ship also gave me 
 a hand and foot of a mummy, the nails 
 whereof had been overlaid with thin plates 
 of gold, and the whole body was perfect, 
 when he brought it out of Egypt ; but the 
 avarice of the ship's crew broke it to 
 pieces, and divided the body among them. 
 He presented me also with two Egyptian 
 idols, and some loaves of the bread which 
 the Coptics use in the holy Sacrament, 
 with other curiosities. 
 
 %th August. I had news from Padua of 
 my election to be Syndicus Artistartwi, 
 which caused me, after two days' idling in 
 a country villa with the Consul of Venice, 
 to hasten thither, that I might discharge 
 myself of that honour, because it was not 
 only chargeable, but would have hindered 
 my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentle- 
 man in my place, which did not well please 
 my countrymen, who had laboured not a 
 little to do me the greatest honour a stranger 
 is capable of in that University. Being 
 freed from this impediment, and having 
 taken leave of Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, 
 who was going physician in the Venetian 
 galleys to Candia, I went again to Venice, 
 and made a collection of several books and 
 some toys. Three days after, I returned 
 to Padua, where I studied hard till the 
 arrival of Mr Henshaw, Bramston, 2 and 
 some other English gentlemen whom I 
 had left at Rome, and who made me 
 go back to Venice, where I spent some 
 time in showing them what I had seen 
 there. 
 
 26th September. My dear friend, and 
 till now my constant fellow-traveller, Mr. 
 Thicknesse, being obliged to return to 
 England upon his particular concern, and 
 who had served his Majesty in the wars, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 77-1 
 
 2 [Francis Bramston, d. 1683, brother of Sir John 
 Bramston of the Autobiop-apky. He was made a 
 Baron of the Exchequer in 1678. He travelled for 
 four years in France and Italy (see post, under 
 10th October).] 
 
 I accompanied him part of his way, and, 
 on the 28th, returned to Venice. 
 
 2gth. Michaelmas-day, I went with my 
 Lord Mowbray 1 (eldest son to the Earl of 
 Arundel, and a most worthy person) to see 
 the collection of a noble Venetian, Signor 
 Rugini. He has a stately Palace, richly 
 furnished with statues and heads of Roman 
 Emperors, all placed in an ample room. 
 In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both 
 Latin and Greek, with divers curious shells 
 and two fair pearls in two of them ; but, 
 above all, he abounded in things petrified, 
 walnuts, eggs in which the yolk rattled, 
 a pear, a piece of beef with the bones in 
 it, a whole hedgehog, a plaice on a wooden 
 trencher turned into stone and very perfect, 
 charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its 
 levity, sponges, and a piece of taffety part 
 rolled up, with innumerable more. In 
 another cabinet, supported by twelve pillars 
 of oriental agate, and railed about with 
 crystal, he showed us several noble intaglios 
 of agate, especially a head of Tiberius, a 
 woman in a bath with her dog, some rare 
 cornelians, onyxes, crystals, etc., in one of 
 which was a drop of water not congealed, 
 but moving up and down, when shaken ; 
 above all, a diamond which had a very 
 fair ruby growing in it ; divers pieces of 
 amber, wherein were several insects, in 
 particular one cut like a heart that con- 
 tained in it a salamander without the least 
 defect, and many pieces of mosaic. The 
 fabric of this cabinet was very ingenious, 
 set thick with agates, turquoises, and other 
 precious stones, in the midst of which was 
 an antique of a dog in stone scratching his 
 ear, very rarely cut, and comparable to 
 the greatest curiosity I had ever seen of 
 that kind for the accurateness of the work. 
 The next chamber had a bedstead all 
 inlaid with agates, crystals, cornelians, 
 lazuli, etc., esteemed worth 16,000 crowns; 
 but, for the most part, the bedsteads in 
 Italy are of forged iron gilded, since it is 
 impossible to keep the wooden ones from 
 the cimices. 
 
 1 James Lord Mowbray and Maltravers, the 
 eldest son of Lord Arundel, died in 1624, before 
 his father. Evelyn's friend was Henry Frederick 
 (1608-52), the Earl's second son, who, on his father's 
 death in Italy (1646), succeeded to the earldom of 
 Arundel. He married, in 1626, Elizabeth, eldest 
 daughter of Esme Stuart, Earl of March, and 
 afterwards Duke of Lennox, who will be found 
 noticed occasionally by Evelyn. > 
 
128 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1646 
 
 From hence, I returned to Padua, when 
 that town was so infested with soldiers, 
 that many houses were broken open in the 
 night, some murders committed, and the 
 nuns next our lodging disturbed, so as 
 we were forced to be on our guard with 
 pistols and other firearms to defend our 
 doors ; and indeed the students themselves 
 take a barbarous liberty in the evenings 
 when they go to their strumpets, to stop 
 all that pass by the house where any of 
 their companions in folly are with them. 
 This custom they call chi vali, so as the 
 streets are very dangerous, when the even- 
 ings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reform 
 this intolerable usage, where there are so 
 many strangers of several nations. 
 
 Using to drink my wine cooled with 
 snow and ice, as the manner here is, I was 
 so afflicted with an angina and sore throat, 
 that it had almost cost me my life. After 
 all the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief 
 professor here, could apply, old Salvatico 
 (that famous physician) being called, made 
 me be cupped and scarified in the back 
 in four places ; which began to give me 
 breath, and consequently life ; for I was 
 in the utmost danger ; but, God being 
 merciful to me, I was after a fortnight 
 abroad again ; when, changing my lodging, 
 I went over against Pozzo Pinto, where I 
 bought for winter provision 3000 weight 
 of excellent grapes, and pressed my own 
 wine, which proved incomparable liquor. 
 
 This was on 10th October. Soon after 
 came to visit me from Venice Mr. Henry 
 Howard, grand -child to the Earl of 
 Arundel, 1 Mr. Bramston, 2 son to the Lord 
 Chief Justice, 3 and Mr. Henshaw, with 
 whom I went to another part of the city to 
 lodge near St. Catherine's, over against 
 the monastery of nuns, where we hired the 
 whole house, and lived very nobly. Here 
 
 1 Second son of Henry Frederick Howard (p. 
 127 «.)• He succeeded his elder brother, Thomas, 
 who had been restored in 1660 to the dukedom 
 of Norfolk, as sixth duke (1677), though he had 
 previously been created Baron Howard of Castle 
 Rising (1669) and Earl of Norwich (1677). He 
 was also created Earl Marshal of England, and 
 died nth January, 1684. Evelyn often mentions 
 this family. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 127 ; and post, under 3rd August, 
 1668.] 
 
 3 [Sir John Bramston of Borsham, 1577-165 4, 
 Chief Justice of King's Bench, 1635, and father of 
 Sir John Bramston, K.B., 1611-1700, author of the 
 A utobiography.} 
 
 I learned to play on the theorbo, taught 
 by Signor Dominico Bassano, who had a 
 daughter married to a doctor of laws, that 
 played and sung to nine several instru- 
 ments, with that skill and address as few 
 masters in Italy exceeded her ; she like- 
 wise composed divers excellent pieces : 
 I had never seen any play on the Naples 
 viol before. She presented me afterwards 
 with two recitativos of hers, both words 
 and music. 
 
 3 1 st October. Being my birthday, 1 the 
 nuns of St. Catherine's sent me flowers of 
 silk-work. We were very studious all this 
 winter till Christmas, when, on Twelfth- 
 day, we invited all the English and Scots 
 in town to a feast, which sunk our excellent 
 wine considerably. 
 
 1645-6. In January, Signor Molino was 
 chosen Doge of Venice, but the extreme 
 snow that fell, and the cold, hindered 
 my going to see the solemnity, so as 
 I stirred not from Padua till Shrovetide, 
 when all the world repair to Venice, to 
 see the folly and madness of the Carnival ; 
 the women, men, and persons of all condi- 
 tions disguising themselves in antique 
 dresses, with extravagant music and a 
 thousand gambols, traversing the streets 
 from house to house, all places being then 
 accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they 
 fling eggs filled with sweet water, but 
 sometimes not over-sweet. They also have 
 a barbarous custom of hunting bulls about 
 the streets and piazzas, which is very 
 dangerous, the passages being generally 
 narrow. The youth of the several wards 
 and parishes contend in other masteries 
 and pastimes, so that it is impossible to 
 recount the universal madness of this place 
 during this time of license. The great 
 banks are set up for those who will play at 
 basset ; the comedians have liberty, and 
 the operas are open ; witty pasquils are 
 thrown about, and the mountebanks have 
 their stages at every corner. The diversion 
 which chiefly took me up was three noble 
 operas, where were excellent voices and 
 music, the most celebrated of which was 
 the famous Anna Rencia, 2 whom we invited 
 to a fish- dinner after four days in Lent, 
 when they had given over at the theatre. 
 Accompanied with an eunuch whom she 
 brought with her, she entertained us with 
 
 1 [He was twenty-five.] 2 [See ante, p. 122.] 
 
1646] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 129 
 
 rare music, both of them singing to a 
 harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman 
 of Venice came for her, to show her the 
 galleys, now ready to sail for Candia. This 
 entertainment produced a second, given us 
 by the English consul of the merchants, 
 inviting us to his house, where he had the 
 Genoese, the most celebrated bass in Italy, 
 who was one of the late opera-band. This 
 diversion held us so late at night, that, 
 conveying a gentlewoman who had supped 
 with us to her gondola at the usual place 
 of landing, we were shot at by two carbines 
 from another gondola, in which were a 
 noble Venetian and his courtesan unwilling 
 to be disturbed, which made us run in and 
 fetch other weapons, not knowing what the 
 matter was, till we were informed of the 
 danger we might incur by pursuing it 
 farther. "\ 
 
 Three days after this I took my leave of 
 Venice, and went to Padua, to be present 
 at the famous anatomy lecture, celebrated 
 here with extraordinary apparatus, lasting 
 almost a whole month. During this time, 
 I saw a woman, a child, and a man dis- 
 sected with all the manual operations of 
 the chirurgeon on the human body. The 
 one was performed by Cavalier Veslingius 
 and Dr. Jo. Athelsteinus Leoncenas, of 
 whom I purchased those rare tables of 
 veins and nerves, 1 and caused him to 
 prepare a third of the lungs, liver, and 
 nervi sexti par : with the gastric veins, 
 which I sent into England, and afterwards 
 presented to the Royal Society, being the 
 first of that kind that had been seen there, 
 and, for aught I know, in the world, though 
 afterwards there were others. 2 When the 
 anatomy lectures, which were in the 
 mornings, were ended, I went to see cures 
 done in the hospitals ; and certainly as 
 there are the greatest helps and the most 
 skilful physicians, so there are the most 
 miserable and deplorable objects to exercise 
 upon. Nor is there any, I should think, 
 so powerful an argument against the vice 
 
 1 [See/w/, 5th November, 1652, and 31st October, 
 1667.] 
 
 2 [Writing from Padua in 1665, of one Marchetti, 
 who had learned dissection of Sir John Finch, Sir 
 Heneage Finch's younger brother, "and one that 
 in anatomy hath taken as much pains as most now 
 living," Edward Browne says: "He [Marchetti] 
 hath tables of the veines, nerves, and arteries, five 
 times more exact than are described in any author " 
 (Sir T. Browne's Works, 1836, i. 91).] 
 
 reigning in this licentious country, as to be 
 spectator of the misery these poor creatures 
 undergo. They are indeed very carefully 
 attended, and with extraordinary charity. 
 
 20th March. I returned to Venice, where 
 I took leave of my friends. 
 
 227id. I was invited to excellent English 
 potted venison, at Mr. Hobbson's, a worthy 
 merchant. 
 
 23rd. I took my leave of the Patriarch 
 and the Prince of Wirtemberg, and Monsieur 
 Grotius (son of the learned Hugo 1 ) now 
 going as commander to Candia ; and, in 
 the afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my 
 merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 
 ducats for my journey. He showed me 
 his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed 
 very curious, and of good value. 
 
 The next day, I was conducted to the 
 Ghetto, where the Jews dwell together in 
 as a tribe or ward, where I was present at 
 a marriage. The bride was clad in white, 
 sitting in a lofty chair, and covered with a 
 white veil ; then two old Rabbis joined 
 them together, one of them holding a glass 
 of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of 
 the ceremony, pretending to deliver to the 
 woman, he let fall, the breaking whereof 
 was to signify the frailty of our nature, and 
 that we must expect disasters and crosses 
 amidst all enjoyments. This done we had 
 a fine banquet, and were brought into the 
 bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed 
 up with flowers, and the counterpane strewed 
 in works. At this ceremony, we saw divers 
 very beautiful Portuguese Jewesses, with 
 whom we had some conversation. 
 
 I went to the Spanish Ambassador with 
 Bonifacio, his confessor, and obtained his 
 pass to serve me in the Spanish dominions ; 
 without which I was not to travel, in this 
 pompous form : 
 
 Don Gaspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques 
 de la Fuente, Senor Le Lerena y Verazuza, 
 Commendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant 
 Yago, Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano 
 Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, Gentilhombre 
 de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, 
 de su Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario 
 a los Principes de Italia, y Alemania, y a esta 
 serenissima Republica de Venetia, etc. Ha- 
 viendo de partir de esta Ciudad para La 
 Milan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 13.] 
 
 K 
 
130 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1646 
 
 con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte 
 para los Estatos de su M. Le he mandado 
 dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, y sellado 
 con el sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo 
 a todos los menestros de S. M. antes quien 
 le presentase y a los que no lo son , supplico 
 les dare passar libramente sin permitir que se 
 le haya vexacion alguna antes mandar le las 
 favor para continuar su viage. Fecho en 
 Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo del an'o 
 1646. Mar. de la Fuentes, etc. 
 
 Having packed up my purchases of books, 
 pictures, casts, treacle, etc. (the making and 
 extraordinary ceremony whereof I had 
 been curious to observe, for it is extremely 
 pompous and worth seeing), I departed 
 from Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller 
 (the celebrated poet), 1 now newly gotten 
 out of England, after the Parliament had 
 extremely worried him for attempting to 
 put in execution the commission of Array, 
 and for which the rest of his colleagues 
 were hanged by the rebels. 
 
 The next day, I took leave of my com- 
 rades at Padua, and receiving some direc- 
 tions from Dr. Salvatico 2 as to the care of 
 my health, I prepared for my journey 
 towards Milan. 
 
 It was Easter - Monday that I was in- 
 vited to breakfast at the Earl of Arundel's. 3 
 I took my leave of him in his bed, where I 
 left that great and excellent man in tears 
 on some private discourse of crosses that 
 had befallen his illustrious family, particu- 
 larly the undutifulness of his grandson 
 Philip's turning Dominican Friar (since 
 Cardinal of Norfolk), 4 and the misery of 
 his country now embroiled in civil war. 
 He caused his gentleman to give me direc- 
 tions, all written with his own hand, what 
 curiosities I should inquire after in my 
 
 1 [Edmund Waller, 1606-87. After being im- 
 prisoned in the Tower for " Waller's Plot" to seize 
 London for Charles 1., he had been fined and 
 banished, November, 1644.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 
 3 Lassels, who travelled a short time after Evelyn, 
 says (ii. p. 429), that the Earl died here, and that 
 his bowels are buried under a black marble stone, 
 inscribed, " Interiora Thomse Howardi Comitis 
 Arondeliffi." 
 
 4 Philip Howard, 1629-94, was the third son of 
 Henry Frederick, afterwards third Earl of Arundel 
 (see ante, p. 127 «.). He entered the Church of 
 Rome, as stated by Evelyn, and afterwards rose to 
 the dignity of Cardinal, and became Lord Almoner 
 to Catherine, consort of Charles II. 
 
 journey ; and, so enjoining me to write 
 sometimes to him, I departed. There 
 stayed for me below, Mr. Henry Howard 
 (afterwards Duke of Norfolk), Mr. J. 
 Digby, son of Sir Kenelm Digby, 1 and other 
 gentlemen, who conducted me to the 
 coach. 
 
 The famous lapidaries of Venice for false 
 stones and pastes, so as to emulate the 
 best diamonds, rubies, etc., were Marco 
 Terrasso and Gilbert. 
 
 An account of what Bills of Exchange I 
 took up at Venice since my coming from 
 Rome, till my departure from Padua. 
 
 nth Aug., 1645 . 
 7th Sept. 
 ist Oct. 
 
 200 
 
 135 
 100 
 
 15th Jan., 1646 . 
 23rd April . 
 
 100 
 
 . 300 
 
 835 Ducati di Banco 
 
 In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one 
 Captain Wray 2 . (son of Sir Christopher, 
 whose father had been in arms against his 
 Majesty, and therefore by no means wel- 
 come to us), with Mr. Abdy, 3 a modest 
 and learned man, we got that night to 
 Vicenza, passing by the Euganean hills, 
 celebrated for the prospects and furniture 
 of rare simples, which we found growing 
 about them. The ways were something 
 deep, the whole country flat and even as 
 a bowling-green. The common fields lie 
 square, and are orderly planted with fruit 
 trees, which the vines run and embrace, 
 for many miles, with delicious streams 
 creeping along the ranges. 
 
 Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of 
 Treviso, yet appertaining to the Venetians, 
 full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to 
 which the famous Palladio, 4 born here, has 
 exceedingly contributed, having been the 
 architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall 
 of Justice ; it has a tower of excellent 
 work ; the lower pillars are of the first 
 order ; those in the three upper corridors 
 are Doric ; under them, are shops in a 
 spacious piazza. The hall was built in 
 imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler 
 design, d la moderne. The next morning, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 19. John Digby was his second 
 son, his eldest son being Kenelm, afterwards killed 
 in the Civil Wars. ] 
 
 2 [Seepost, p. 143.] 
 
 3 [See Introduction.] 
 
 4 [Andrea Palladio, 1518-80.] 
 
1646] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 131 
 
 we visited the theatre, as being of that 
 kind the most perfect now standing, and 
 built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the 
 ancient Romans, and capable of containing 
 5000 spectators. 1 The scene, which is all 
 of stone, represents an imperial city, the 
 order Corinthian, decorated with statues. 
 Over the Scenario is inscribed, "Virtuti 
 ac Genio Olympior : Academia Theatrum 
 hoc a fundamentis erexit Palladio Archi- 
 tect : 1584." The scene declines eleven 
 feet, the soffitta painted with clouds. To 
 this there joins a spacious hall for solemn 
 days to ballot in, and a second for the 
 Academics. In the Piazza is also the 
 Podesta, or governor's house, the facciata 
 being of the Corinthian order, very noble. 
 The Piazza itself is so large as to be cap- 
 able of jousts and tournaments, the nobility 
 of this city being exceedingly addicted to 
 this knight-errantry, and other martial 
 diversions. In this place are two pillars 
 in imitation of those at St. Mark's at 
 Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, 
 the other the statue of St. John the Baptist. 
 In a word, this sweet town has more 
 well-built palaces than any of its dimen- 
 sions in all Italy, besides a number begun 
 and not yet finished (but of stately design) 
 by reason of the domestic dissensions be- 
 twixt them and those of Brescia, fomented 
 by the sage Venetians, lest by combining, 
 they might think of recovering their ancient 
 liberty. For this reason, also, are per- 
 mitted those disorders and insolences com- 
 mitted at Padua among the youth of these 
 two territories. It is no dishonour in this 
 country to be some generations in finish- 
 ing their palaces, that without exhausting 
 themselves by a vast expense at once, they 
 may at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count 
 Oleine's Palace is near perfected in this 
 manner. Count Ulmarini 2 is more famous 
 for his gardens, being without the walls, 
 especially his cedrario, or conserve of 
 oranges, eleven score of my paces long, set 
 in order and ranges, making a canopy all 
 the way by their intermixing branches for 
 more than 200 of my single paces, and 
 which, being full of fruit and blossoms, 
 was a most delicious sight. In the middle 
 
 1 [Lassels says three thousand.] 
 
 2 Lassels (ii. p. 435) calls him Valmerana, [and 
 mentions the "curious Labyrinth in the garden " 
 of which Evelyn speaks]. 
 
 of this garden, was a cupola made of wire, 
 supported by slender pillars of brick, so 
 closely covered with ivy, both without and 
 within, that nothing was to be perceived 
 but green ; betwixt the arches there dangled 
 festoons of the same. Here is likewise a 
 most inextricable labyrinth. 
 
 I had in this town recommendation to a 
 very civil and igenious apothecary, called 
 Angelico, who had a pretty collection of 
 paintings. I would fain have visited a 
 Palace, called the Rotonda, 1 which was a 
 mile out of town, belonging to Count 
 Martio Capra ; but one of our companions 
 hastening to be gone, and little minding 
 anything save drinking and folly, caused 
 us to take coach sooner than we would 
 have done. 
 
 A little from the town, we passed the 
 Campo Martio, set out in imitation of 
 ancient Rome, wherein the nobles exercised 
 their horses, and the ladies make the Corso ; 
 it is entered by a stately triumphal arch, 
 the invention of Palladio. 
 
 Being now set out for Verona, about 
 midway we dined at Ostaria Nova, and 
 came late to our resting-place, which was 
 the Cavaletto, just over the monument of 
 the Scaligeri, 2 formerly princes of Verona, 
 adorned with many devices in stone of 
 ladders, alluding to the name. 
 
 Early next morning, we went about the 
 city, which is built on the gentle declivity, 
 and bottom of a hill, environed in part 
 with some considerable mountains and 
 downs of fine grass, like some places in 
 the south of England, and, on the other 
 side, having the rich plain where Caius 
 Marius overthrew the Cimbrians. The 
 city is divided in the midst by the river 
 Adige, over which are divers stately bridges, 
 and on its banks are many goodly palaces, 
 whereof one is well painted in chiaroscuro 
 on the outside, as are divers in this dry 
 climate of Italy. 
 
 The first thing that engaged our atten- 
 tion and wonder, too, was the amphitheatre, 
 which is the most entire of ancient remains 
 now extant. The inhabitants call it the 
 Arena : it has two porticoes, one within the 
 other, and is thirty-four rods long, twenty - 
 
 1 [" Palladio's Villa," copied hy Lord Burlington 
 at Chiswick.] 
 
 2 [Or della Scala, from whom — says Lassels — 
 "Joseph and Julius Scaliger pretend to have 
 come " (ii. p. 437).] 
 
132 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [i6 4 e 
 
 two in breadth, with forty-two ranks of stone 
 benches, or seats, which reach to the top. 
 The vastness of the marble stones is stupen- 
 dous. " L. V. Flaminius, Consul, anno, 
 urb. con. liii." This I esteem to be one 
 of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it is so 
 vast and entire, having escaped the ruins 
 of so many other public buildings for above 
 1400 years. 
 
 There are other arches, as that of the 
 victory of Marius ; temples, aqueducts, 
 etc., showing still considerable remains in 
 several places of the town, and how mag- 
 nificent it has formerly been. It has three 
 strong castles, and a large and noble wall. 
 Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, 
 especially the Senate-house, where we saw 
 those celebrated statues of Cornelius Nepos, 
 ^Emilius Marcus, Plinius, and Vitruvius, 
 all having honoured Verona by their birth ; 
 and, of later date, Julius Caesar Scaliger, 
 that prodigy of learning. 1 
 
 In the evening we saw the garden of 
 Count Giusti's villa, where are walks cut 
 out of the main rock, from whence we had 
 the pleasant prospect of Mantua and Parma, 
 though at great distance. At the entrance 
 of this garden, grows the goodliest cypress, 
 I fancy, in Europe, cut in a pyramid ; it is a 
 prodigious tree both for breadth and height, 
 entirely covered, and thick to the base. 
 
 Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, 
 amongst other rarities, a St. Dorothea, of 
 Raphael. We could not see the rare draw- 
 ings, especially of Parmensis, belonging to 
 Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account 
 of his absence. 
 
 Verona deserved all those eulogies 
 Scaliger has honoured it with ; for, in my 
 opinion, the situation is the most delightful 
 I ever saw, it is so sweetly mixed with 
 rising ground and valleys, so elegantly 
 planted with trees on which Bacchus seems 
 riding as it were in triumph every autumn, 
 for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here, 
 of all places I have seen in Italy, would I 
 fix a residence. Well has that learned 
 man given it the name of the very eye of 
 the world : 
 
 Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali cceli, 
 
 Flos Urbium, flos cornicuumq' amcenum, 
 
 Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona. 
 
 The next morning we travelled over the 
 
 1 [Julius Caesar Scaliger, T484-1558, father of 
 Joseph Justus (see ante, p. 17).] 
 
 downs where Marius fought, and fancied 
 ourselves about Winchester, and the country 
 towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn 
 called Cavalli Caschieri, near Peschiera, a 
 very strong fort of the Venetian Republic, 
 and near the Lago di Garda, which dis- 
 embogues into that of Mantua, near forty 
 miles in length, highly spoken of by my 
 Lord Arundel to me, as the most pleasant 
 spot in Italy, for which reason I observed 
 it with the more diligence, alighting out of 
 the coach, and going up to a grove of 
 cypresses growing about a gentleman's 
 country-house, from whence indeed it 
 presents a most surprising prospect. The 
 hills and gentle risings about it produce 
 oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other 
 tempting fruits, and the waters abound in 
 excellent fish, especially trouts. In the 
 middle of this lake, stands Sermonea 
 [Sermione], on an island ; here Captain 
 Wray bought a pretty nag of the master of 
 our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, 
 which his wife, our hostess, was so un- 
 willing to part with, that she did nothing 
 but kiss and weep and hang about the 
 horse's neck, till the captain rode away. 
 
 We came this evening to Brescia, which 
 next morning we traversed, according to 
 our custom, in search of antiquities and 
 new sights. Here, I purchased of old 
 Lazarino Cominazzo 1 my fine carbine, 
 which cost me nine pistoles, this city being 
 famous for these firearms, and that work- 
 man, To. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. 
 The city consists most in artists, every shop 
 abounding in guns, swords, armourers, etc. 
 Most of the workmen come out of Germany. 
 It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle is 
 built on a hill. The streets abound in fair 
 fountains. The Torre della Pallada is of a 
 noble Tuscan order, and the Senate-house 
 is inferior to few. The piazza is but in- 
 different ; some of the houses arched as at 
 Padua. The Cathedral was under repair. 
 We would from hence have visited Parma, 
 Piacenza, Mantua, etc. ; but the banditti 
 and other dangerous parties being abroad, 
 committing many enormities, we were 
 contented with a Pisgah sight of them. 
 
 We dined next day, at Ursa Vecchia, 
 and, after dinner, passed by an exceeding 
 strong fort of the Venetians, called Ursa 
 
 1 [Lassels calls him the "famous" Lazarino 
 Comminazzo.] 
 
i6 4 6] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 *33 
 
 Nova, on their frontier. Then by the 
 river Oglio, and so by Sonzino, where we 
 enter the Spanish dominions, and that night 
 arrived at Crema, which belongs to Venice, 
 and is well defended. The Podesta's 
 Palace is finely built, and so is the Duomo, 
 or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with an 
 ample piazza. 
 
 Early next day, after four miles' riding, 
 we entered into the State of Milan, and 
 passed by Lodi, 1 a great city famous for 
 cheese, little short of the best Parmeggiano. 
 We dined at Marignano, ten miles before 
 coming to Milan, where we met half-a- 
 dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet did us 
 no harm. Then, passing as through a 
 continual garden, we went on with exceed- 
 ing pleasure ; for it is the Paradise of 
 Lombardy, the highways as even and 
 straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent 
 planted with fruit about the enclosures, 
 vines to every tree at equal distances, and 
 watered with frequent streams. There 
 was likewise much corn, and olives in 
 abundance. At approach of the city, some 
 of our company, in dread of the Inquisition 
 (severer here than in all Spain), thought of 
 throwing away some Protestant books and 
 papers. We arrived about three in the 
 afternoon, when the officers searched us 
 thoroughly for prohibited goods ; but, find- 
 ing we were only gentlemen travellers, 
 dismissed us for a small reward, and we 
 went quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, 
 where, for that day, we refreshed ourselves, 
 as we had need. The next morning, we 
 delivered our letters of recommendation to 
 the learned and courteous Ferrarius, a 
 Doctor of the Ambrosian College, 2 who 
 conducted us to all the remarkable places 
 of the town, the first of which was the 
 famous Cathedral. We entered by a 
 portico, so little inferior to that of Rome 
 that, when it is finished, it will be hard to 
 
 1 Celebrated in later years for the victory gained 
 by Buonaparte over the Austrians. 
 
 2 Francisco Bernardino Ferrari, 1577-1669, for 
 his extensive knowledge of books selected by 
 Frederick Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, as a 
 proper person to travel and collect books and 
 manuscripts for a noble library he was desirous of 
 founding in that city. He collected a great number 
 of works in all classes of literature, which, with 
 later additions, has since been known as the 
 Ambrosian Library. Lassels speaks also of 
 Octavius Ferrarius, 1607-64, a Milanese archaeo- 
 logist. 
 
 say which is the fairest ; the materials are 
 all of white and black marble, with columns 
 of great height, of Egyptian granite. The 
 outside of the church is so full of sculpture, 
 that you may number 4000 statues, all of 
 white marble, amongst which that of St. 
 Bartholomew is esteemed a masterpiece. 1 
 The church is very spacious, almost as long 
 as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. 
 About the choir, the sacred story is finely 
 sculptured, in snow-white marble, nor 
 know I where it is exceeded. About the 
 body of the church are the miracles of St. 
 Charles Borromeo, 2 and in the vault beneath 
 is his body before the high altar, grated, and 
 enclosed, in one of the largest crystals in 
 Europe. 3 To this also belongs a rich 
 treasure. The cupola is all of marble 
 within and without, and even covered with 
 great planks of marble, in the Gothic 
 design. The windows are most beautifully 
 painted. Here are two very fair and 
 excellent organs. The fabric is erected in 
 the midst of a fair piazza, and in the centre 
 of the city. 
 
 Hence, we went to the Palace of the 
 Archbishop, which is a quadrangle, the 
 architecture of Tibaldi, who designed much 
 for Philip II. in the Escurial, and has built 
 much in Milan. Hence, into the Governor's 
 Palace, who was Constable of Castile. 
 Tempted by the glorious tapestries and 
 pictures, I adventured so far alone, that 
 peeping into a chamber where the great 
 man was under the barber's hands, he sent 
 one of his negroes (a slave) to know what 
 I was. I made the best excuse I could, 
 and that I was only admiring the pictures, 
 which he returning and telling his lord, I 
 heard the Governor reply that I was a spy ; 
 on which I retired with all the speed I 
 could, passed the guard of Swiss, got into 
 the street, and in a moment to my company, 
 who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, 
 which in truth is a noble structure, the front 
 especially, after the modern. After dinner, 
 we were conducted to St. Celso, a church 
 of rare architecture, built by Bramante ; 
 the carvings of the marble facciata are by 
 
 1 [By Christophero Cibo.] 
 
 2 [Charles Borromeo, St. Cardinal Archbishop of 
 Milan, 1538-1584, "another St. Ambrose in 
 Pastoral dignity, zeale and sanctity," says Lassels, 
 i. p. 118.] 
 
 * [The coffin is made of " great squars of 
 crisial."] 
 
134 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1646 
 
 Annibal Fontana, whom they esteem at 
 Milan equal to the best of the ancients. 
 In a room joining to the Church, is a marble 
 Madonna, like a coloss, of the same 
 sculptor's work, which they will not expose 
 to the air. There are two sacristias, in 
 one of which is a fine Virgin, of Leonardo 
 da Vinci ; in the other is one of Raphael 
 d'Urbino, a piece which all the world 
 admires. The Sacristan showed us a world 
 of rich plate, jewels, and embroidered 
 copes, which are kept in presses. 
 
 Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, 
 a quadrangular cloister of a vast compass, 
 a truly royal fabric, with an annual en- 
 dowment of 50,000 crowns of gold. There 
 is in the middle of it a cross building for 
 the sick, and, just under it, an altar so 
 placed as to be seen in all places of the 
 Infirmary. 
 
 There are divers colleges built in this 
 quarter, richly provided for by the same 
 Borromeo and his nephew, the last Car- 
 dinal Frederico, 1 some not yet finished, but 
 of excellent design. 
 
 In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly 
 lay the bodies of the three Magi, since 
 translated to Cologne in Germany ; they, 
 however, preserve the tomb, which is a 
 square stone, on which is engraven a star, 
 and, under it, " Sepulchrum trium Ma- 
 gorum. " 
 
 Passing by St. Laurence, we saw six- 
 teen columns of marble, and the ruins of 
 a Temple of Hercules, with this inscrip- 
 tion yet standing : 
 
 Imp. Csesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Ar- 
 miniaco Medio Parthico Max. Trib. Pot. 
 VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi An- 
 tonini Pij Divi Hadriani Nepoti Divi 
 Trajani Parthici Pro- Nepoti Divi Nervae 
 Abnepoti Dec. Dec. 
 
 We concluded this day's wandering at 
 the Monastery of Madonna delle Grazie, 
 and in the refectory admired that cele- 
 brated " Ccena Domini" of Leonardo da 
 Vinci, which takes up the entire wall at 
 the end, and is the same that the great 
 virtuoso, Francis the First of France, was 
 so enamoured of, that he consulted to 
 remove the whole wall by binding it about 
 with ribs of iron and timber, to convey it 
 
 1 [Frederick Borromeo, 1564-1631, Archbishop of 
 Milan.] 
 
 into France. 1 It is indeed one of the 
 rarest paintings that was ever executed by 
 Leonardo, who was long in the service of 
 that Prince, and so dear to him that the 
 King coming to visit him in his old age 
 and sickness, he expired in his arms. But 
 this incomparable piece is now exceedingly 
 impaired. 2 
 
 Early next morning came the learned 
 Dr. Ferrarius to visit us, and took us in 
 his coach to see the Ambrosian Library, 
 where Cardinal Fred. Borromeo has ex- 
 pended so vast a sum on this building, and 
 furnishing with curiosities, especially paint- 
 ings and drawings of inestimable value 
 amongst painters. It is a school fit to 
 make the ablest artists. There are many 
 rare things of Hans Brueghel, and amongst 
 them the "Four Elements." 3 In this 
 room stands the glorious [boasting] in- 
 scription of Cavaliero Galeazzo Arconati, 
 valuing his gift to the library of several 
 drawings by Da Vinci ; but these we 
 could not see, the keeper of them being 
 out of town, and he always carrying the 
 keys with him ; but my Lord Marshal, 
 who had seen them, told me all but 
 one book are small, that a huge folio 
 contained 400 leaves full of scratches of 
 Indians, etc. But whereas the inscription 
 pretends that our King Charles had offered 
 ;£iooo for them, — the truth is, and my 
 Lord himself told me, that it was he who 
 treated with Galeazzo for himself, in the 
 name and by permission of the King, and 
 that the Duke of Feria, who was then 
 Governor, should make the bargain ; but 
 my Lord, having seen them since, did not 
 think them of so much worth. 
 
 In the great room, where is a goodly 
 
 1 The Painter's Voyage of Italy, published in 
 1679, does not notice it ; and probably it was then 
 almost invisible from decay. It has since been 
 frequently retouched, and it still remains in the 
 refectory of the monastery in which Evelyn saw it ; 
 but the damage received from the dampness of the 
 wall has left it but the most indistinct shadow of 
 what it once was. This, however, is less to be 
 deplored since the magnificent print of it by 
 Raphael Morghen, justly esteemed one of the 
 finest works of art in this kind that has ever been 
 executed. The old previous engraving from it by 
 Peter Soutman by no means exhibited a true 
 delineation of the characters of the piece, as nobly 
 designed by Leonardo. 
 
 2 [Lassels only mentions Titian's picture in the 
 church (" Christ crowned with Thorns "). | 
 
 3 [Lassels calls them copies.] 
 
i6 4 6] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 135 
 
 library, on the right hand of the door, is a 
 small wainscot closet, furnished with rare 
 manuscripts. Two original letters of the 
 Grand Signor were showed us, sent to two 
 Popes, one of which was (as I remember) 
 to Alexander VI. [Borgia], and the other 
 mentioning the head of the lance which 
 pierced our Blessed Saviour's side, as a 
 present to the Pope: I would fain have 
 gotten a copy of them, but could not ; I 
 hear, however, that they are since trans- 
 lated into Italian, and that therein is a 
 most honourable mention of Christ. 
 
 We re-visited St. Ambrose's church. 
 The high altar is supported by four por- 
 phyry columns, and under it lie the remains 
 of that holy man. Near it they showed us 
 a pit, or well (an obscure place it is), 
 where they say St. Ambrose baptized St. 
 Augustine, and recited the Te Deum ; for 
 so imports the inscription. The place is 
 also famous for some Councils that have 
 been held here, and for the coronation of 
 divers Italian Kings and Emperors, re- 
 ceiving the iron crown from the Arch- 
 bishop of this see. x They show the History 
 by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. 
 The high altar is wonderfully rich. 
 
 Milan is one of the most princely cities 
 in Europe : it has no suburbs, but is circled 
 with a stately wall for ten miles, in the 
 centre of a country that seems to flow with 
 milk and honey. The air is excellent ; 
 the fields fruitful to admiration, the market 
 abounding with all sorts of provisions. In 
 the city are near 100 churches, 71 monas- 
 teries, and 40,000 inhabitants ; it is of a 
 circular figure, fortified with bastions, full 
 of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, 
 especially for works in crystal, which is 
 here cheap, being found among the Alps. 
 They have curious straw-work among the 
 nuns, even to admiration. It has a good 
 river, and a citadel at some small distance 
 from the city, commanding it, of great 
 strength for its works and munition of all 
 kinds. It was built by Galeatius the 
 Second, and consists of four bastions, and 
 works at the angles and fronts ; the graff 
 is faced with brick to a very great depth ; 
 has two strong towers as one enters, and 
 within is another fort, and spacious lodg- 
 ings for the soldiers, and for exercising 
 
 1 Buonaparte afterwards took it, and placed it 
 on his own head. 
 
 them. No accommodation for strength is 
 wanting, and all exactly uniform. They 
 have here also all sorts of work and trades- 
 men, a great magazine of arms and pro- 
 visions. The fosse is of spring water, with 
 a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts 
 vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vasques 
 Coronada was now Governor ; the garrison 
 Spaniards only. 
 
 There is nothing better worth seeing 
 than the collection of Signor Septalla/ 
 a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over 
 Christendom for his learning and virtues. 
 Amongst other things, he showed us an 
 Indian wood, that has the perfect scent of 
 civet ; a flint, or pebble, that has a quan- 
 tity of water in it, which is plainly to 
 be seen, it being clear as agate ; divers 
 crystals that have water moving in them, 
 some of them having plants, leaves, and 
 hog's bristles in them ; much amber full 
 of insects, and divers things of woven 
 amianthus. 2 • 
 
 Milan is a sweet place, and though the 
 streets are narrow, they abound in rich 
 coaches, and are full of noblesse, who 
 frequent the course every night. Walk- 
 ing a turn in the portico before the dome, 
 a cavaliero who passed by, hearing some 
 of us speaking English, looked a good 
 while earnestly on us, and by and by 
 sending his servant, desired we would 
 honour him the next day at dinner. We 
 looked on this as an odd invitation, he 
 not speaking to us himself, but we 
 returned his civility with thanks, though 
 
 1 There are two descriptive Catalogues of this 
 collection, in its day one of the most celebrated in 
 all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in 
 Latin, the other and more detailed one in Italian. 
 To this latter is prefixed a large inside view of the 
 museum, exhibiting its curious contents of busts, 
 statues, pictures, urns, and every kind of rarity, 
 natural and artificial. Keysler, in his Travels, 
 laments the not being able to inspect it, on account 
 of a law-suit then pending ; and, probably in con- 
 sequence of that law-suit, it has now been long 
 dispersed. [Gilbert Burnet, however, had seen it 
 in 1685, and he describes some items which should 
 have attracted Evelyn. " There are many curious 
 motions, where, by an unseen spring, a ball, after 
 it hath roll'd down through many winding descents, 
 is thrown up, and so it seems to be a perpetual 
 motion : this is done in several forms, and is well 
 enough disguised to deceive the vulgar. Many 
 motions of little animals, that runabout by springs, 
 are also very pretty " (Burnet's Travels, 1737, p. 
 
 93)-3 
 
 2 [Flexible asbestos, or earth flax, an incom- 
 bustible substance sometimes wrought into cloth.] 
 
136 
 
 THE VIA RY OF JOHN E FEZ YN 
 
 [1646 
 
 not fully resolved what to do, or indeed 
 what might be the meaning of it in this 
 jealous place ; but on inquiry, it was told 
 us he was a Scots Colonel, who had an 
 honourable command in the city, so that 
 we agreed to go. This afternoon, we 
 were wholly taken up in seeing an opera 
 represented by some Neapolitans, per- 
 formed all in excellent music with rare 
 scenes, in which there acted a celebrated 
 beauty. 
 
 Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, 
 who had sent his servant again to conduct 
 us to his house, which we found to be a 
 noble palace, richly furnished. There 
 were other guests, all soldiers, one of 
 them a Scotchman, but we could not 
 learn one of their names. At dinner, he 
 excused his rudeness that he had not him- 
 self spoken to us ; telling us it was his 
 custom, when he heard of any English 
 travellers (who but rarely would be known 
 to pass through that city for fear of the 
 Inquisition), to invite them to his house, 
 where they might be free. We had a 
 sumptuous dinner ; and the wine was so 
 tempting, that after some healths had gone 
 about, and we had risen from table, the 
 Colonel led us into his hall, where there 
 hung up divers colours, saddles, bridles, 
 pistols, and other arms, being trophies 
 which he had taken with his own hands 
 from the enemy ; amongst them, he would 
 needs bestow a pair of pistols on Captain 
 Wray, one of our fellow-travellers, and a 
 good drinking gentleman, and on me a 
 Turkish bridle woven with silk and very 
 curiously embossed, with other silk trap- 
 pings, to which hung a half-moon finely 
 wrought, which he had taken from a 
 bashaw whom he had slain. With this 
 glorious spoil, I rid the rest of my journey 
 as far as Paris, and brought it afterwards 
 into England. He then showed us a 
 stable of brave horses, with his manage 
 and cavallerizza. Some of the horses he 
 caused to be brought out, which he 
 mounted, and performed all the motions 
 of an excellent horseman. When this was 
 done, and he had alighted,— contrary to 
 the advice of his groom and page, who 
 knew the nature of the beast, and that 
 their master was a little spirited with 
 wine, he would have a fiery horse that 
 had not yet been managed and was very 
 
 ungovernable, but was otherwise a very 
 beautiful creature ; this he mounting, the 
 horse, getting the reins in a full carrUre^ 
 rose so desperately that he fell quite back, 
 crushing the Colonel so forcibly against 
 the wall of the manege, that though he sat 
 on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the 
 jade on all fours again, he desired to be 
 taken down and so led in, where he cast 
 himself on a pallet ; and, with infinite 
 lamentations, after some time we took 
 leave of him, being now speechless. The 
 next morning, going to visit him, we found 
 before the door the canopy which they 
 usually carry over the host, and some with 
 lighted tapers : which made us suspect he 
 was in very sad condition, and so indeed 
 we found him, an Irish Friar standing by 
 his bedside as confessing him, or at least 
 disguising a confession, and other cere- 
 monies used in extremis ; for we after- 
 wards learned that the gentleman was a 
 Protestant, and had this Friar, his con- 
 fidant ; which was a dangerous thing at 
 Milan, had it been but suspected. At our 
 entrance, he sighed grievously, and held 
 up his hands, but was not able to speak. 
 After vomiting some blood, he kindly 
 took us all by the hand, and made signs 
 that he should see us no more, which made 
 us take our leave of him with extreme 
 reluctancy and affliction for the accident. 
 This sad disaster made us consult about 
 our departure as soon as we could, not 
 knowing how we might be inquired after, 
 or engaged, the Inquisition being so 
 cruelly formidable and' inevitable, on the 
 least suspicion. The next morning, there- 
 fore, discharging our lodgings, we agreed . 
 for a coach to carry us to the foot of the 
 Alps, not a little concerned for the death 
 of the Colonel, which we now heard of, 
 and who had so courteously entertained us. 
 
 The first day we got as far as Castel- 
 lanza, by which runs a considerable river 
 into Lago Maggiore ; here, at dinner, 
 were two or three Jesuits, who. were very 
 pragmatical 1 and inquisitive, whom we 
 declined conversation with as decently as 
 we could : so we pursued our journey 
 through a most fruitful plain, but the 
 weather was wet and uncomfortable. At 
 night, we lay at Sesto. 
 
 The next morning, leaving our coach, 
 1 [See ante, p. 63. 1 
 
1646] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 137 
 
 we embarked in a boat to carry us over 
 the lake (being one of the largest in 
 Europe), and whence we could see the 
 towering Alps, and amongst them the 
 great San Bernardo, esteemed the highest 
 mountain in Europe, appearing to be 
 some miles above the clouds. Through 
 this vast water, passes the river Ticinus, 
 which discharges itself into the Po, by 
 which means Helvetia transports her mer- 
 chandises into Italy, which we now begin 
 to leave behind us. 
 
 Having now sailed about two leagues, 
 we were hauled ashore at Arona, a strong 
 town belonging to the Duchy of Milan, 
 where, being examined by the Governor, 
 and paying a small duty, we were dis- 
 missed. Opposite to this fort, is Angera, 
 another small town, the passage very 
 pleasant with the prospect of the Alps 
 covered with pine and fir trees, and above 
 them snow. We passed the pretty island 
 Isabella, about the middle of the lake, on 
 which is a fair house built on a mount ; 
 indeed, the whole island is a mount 
 ascended by several terraces and walks 
 all set about with orange and citron trees. 
 
 The next we saw was Isola, 1 and we 
 left on our right hand the Isle of S. 
 Giovanni ; 1 and so sailing by another 
 small town built also on an island, we 
 arrived at night at Mergozzo, an obscure 
 village at the end of the lake, and at the 
 very foot of the Alps, which now rise as 
 it were suddenly after some hundreds of 
 miles of the most even country in the 
 world, and where there is hardly a stone to 
 be found, as if Nature had here swept up 
 the rubbish of the earth in the Alps, to form 
 and clear the plains of Lombardy, which 
 we had hitherto passed since our coming 
 from- Venice. In this wretched place, I 
 lay on a bed stuffed with leaves, which 
 
 1 [M. Maximilien Misson, in a passage cited 
 by Southey to illustrate the seventeenth-century 
 disregard of picturesque beauty, speaks con- 
 temptuously of the Borromean Islands. They 
 are, he admits, " agrfables, particultireyrient 
 (Tun peu loin. Mais il riy a rien du tout de 
 rare, ni d? extraordinaire" (Nouveau Voyage 
 d'ltalie, 5* ed. 1722, iii. 235). Burnet, on the 
 other hand, is ecstatical. " They are certainly the 
 loveliest spots of ground in the world. There is 
 nothing in all Italy that can be compared to them ; 
 they have the full view of the lake, and the 
 ground rises so sweetly in them, that nothing can 
 be imagined like the terrasses here" (Burnet's 
 Travels {in the years 1685 and 1686), 1737, p. 83).] 
 
 made such a crackling, and did so prick 
 my skin through the tick, that I could not 
 sleep. The next morning I was furnished 
 with an ass, for we could not get horses ; 
 instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied with 
 a loop to put our feet in, which supplied 
 the place of other trappings. Thus, with 
 my gallant steed, bridled with my Turkish 
 present, 1 we passed through a reasonably 
 pleasant but very narrow valley, till we 
 came to Domo, where we rested, and, 
 having showed the Spanish pass, the 
 Governor would press another on us, that 
 his Secretary might get a crown. Here 
 we exchanged our asses for mules, sure- 
 footed on the hills and precipices, being 
 accustomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, 
 we were brought that night through very 
 steep, craggy, and dangerous passages to 
 a village called Vedra, being the last of 
 the King of Spain's dominions in the 
 Duchy of Milan. We had a very in- 
 famous wretched lodging. 
 
 The next morning, we mounted again 
 through strange, horrid, and fearful crags 
 and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and 
 only inhabited by bears, wolves, and wild 
 goats ; nor could we anywhere see above a 
 pistol-shot before us, the horizon being 
 terminated with rocks and mountains, whose 
 tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch 
 the skies, and in many places pierced the 
 clouds. Some of these vast mountains 
 were but one entire stone, betwixt whose 
 clefts now and then precipitated great 
 cataracts of melted snow, and other waters, 
 which made a terrible roaring, echoing 
 from the rocks and cavities ; and these 
 waters in some places breaking in the fall, 
 wet us as if we had passed through a mist, 
 so as we could neither see nor hear one 
 another, but, trusting to our honest mules, 
 we jogged on our way. The narrow 
 bridges, in some places made only by fell- 
 ing huge fir trees, and laying them athwart 
 from mountain to mountain, over cataracts 
 of stupendous depth, are very dangerous, 
 and so are the passages and edges made by 
 cutting away the main rock ; others in 
 steps ; and in some places we pass between 
 mountains that have been broken and 
 fallen on one another ; which is very ter- 
 rible, and one had need of a sure foot and 
 steady head to climb some of these preci- 
 
 ] [See ante, p. 136.] 
 
138 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1646 
 
 pices, besides that they are harbours for 
 bears and wolves, who have sometimes 
 assaulted travellers. In these straits, we 
 frequently alighted, now freezing in the 
 snow, and anon frying by the reverbera- 
 tion of the sun against the cliffs as we 
 descend lower, when we meet now and 
 then a few miserable cottages so built upon 
 the declining of the rocks, as one would 
 expect their sliding down. Amongst these, 
 inhabit a goodly sort of people, having 
 monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, grow- 
 ing to their throats, some of which I have 
 seen as big as an hundred-pound bag of 
 silver hanging under their chins ; among 
 the women especially, and that so pon- 
 derous, as that to ease them, many wear 
 linen cloth bound about their head, and 
 coming under the chin to support it ; but 
 quis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus ? * 
 Their drinking so much snow-water, is 
 thought to be the cause of it ; the men, 
 using more wine, are not so strumous as 
 the women. The truth is, they are a 
 peculiar race of people, and many great 
 water-drinkers here have not these prodi- 
 gious tumours ; it runs, as we say, in the 
 blood, and is a vice in the race, and renders 
 them so ugly, shrivelled and deformed, by 
 its drawing the skin of the face down, that 
 nothing can be more frightful ; 2 to this add 
 a strange purring dress, furs, and that bar- 
 barous language, being a mixture of corrupt 
 High German, French, and Italian. The 
 people are of great stature, extremely 
 fierce and rude, yet very honest and trusty. 
 This night, through almost inaccessible 
 heights, we came in prospect of Mons 
 Sempronius, 3 now Mount Simplon, which 
 has on its summit a few huts and a chapel. 
 Approaching this, Captain Wray's water- 
 spaniel (a huge filthy cur that had followed 
 
 1 [Juvenal, Sat. xiii. 1. 162. Cf. Temdest, Act 
 
 III. Sc. iii.] 
 
 2 [The pragmatical " Peregrine of Odcombe " 
 has also his paragraph on this theme: — "When P 
 came to Aigubelle, I saw the effects of the common 
 drinking of snow-water in Savoy. For there 1 saw 
 many men and women haying exceeding great 
 bunches or swellings in their throates, such as we 
 call in Latin strumas, as bigge as the fistes of a 
 man, through the drinking of snow-water, yet some 
 of their bunches are almost as great as an ordinary 
 foot-ball with us in England. These swellings are 
 much to be seene amongst these Savoyards, neither 
 are all the Piedviontattes free from them " (Coryat, 
 Crudities, ed. 1776, i. 87).] 
 
 3 [Or, Mons Scipionis.] 
 
 him out of England) hunted a herd of 
 goats down the rocks into a river made by 
 the melting of the snow. Arrived at our 
 cold harbour (though the house had a stove 
 in every room) and supping on cheese and 
 milk with wretched wine, we went to bed 
 in cupboards x so high from the floor, that 
 we climbed them by a ladder ; we were 
 covered with feathers, that is, we lay 
 between two ticks stuffed with them, and 
 all little enough to keep one warm. The 
 ceilings of the rooms are strangely low for 
 those tall people. The house was now (in 
 September) half covered with snow, nor is 
 there a tree, or a bush, growing within 
 many miles. 
 
 From this uncomfortable place, we pre- 
 pared to hasten away the next morning ; 
 but, as we were getting on our mules, 
 comes a huge young fellow demanding 
 money for a goat which he affirmed that 
 Captain Wray's dog had killed ; expostu- 
 lating the matter, and impatient of staying 
 in the cold, we set spurs and endeavoured 
 to ride away, when a multitude of people 
 being by this time gotten together about 
 us (for it being Sunday morning and 
 attending for the priest to say mass), they 
 stopped our mules, beat us off our saddles, 
 and, disarming us of our carbines, drew us 
 into one of the rooms of our lodging, and 
 set a guard upon us. Thus we continued 
 prisoners till mass was ended, and then 
 came half a score grim Swiss, who, taking 
 on them to be magistrates, sate down on 
 the table, and condemned us to pay a 
 pistole for the goat, and ten more for 
 attempting to ride away, threatening that 
 if we did not pay it speedily, they would 
 send us to prison, and keep us to a day 
 of public justice, where, as they perhaps 
 would have exaggerated the crime* for 
 they pretended we had primed our car- 
 bines and would have shot some of them 
 (as indeed the Captain was about to do), 
 we might have had our heads cut off, as we 
 were told afterwards, for that amongst 
 these rude people a very small misde- 
 meanour does often meet that sentence. 
 Though the proceedings appeared highly 
 unjust, 2 on consultation among ourselves 
 
 1 They have such in Wales. 
 
 2 Surely — says Bray (and very justly) — these poor 
 people had the right upon their side, and this is not 
 expressed with Evelyn's usual liberality. 
 
i6 4 6] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 139 
 
 we thought it safer to rid ourselves out of 
 their hands, and the trouble we were 
 brought into ; and therefore we patiently 
 laid down the money, and with fierce 
 countenances had our mules and arms 
 delivered to us, and glad we were to 
 escape as we did. This was cold enter- 
 tainment, but our journey after was colder, 
 the rest of the way having been (as they 
 told us) covered with snow since the Crea- 
 tion ; no man remembered it to be with- 
 out ; and because, by the frequent snowing, 
 the tracks are continually filled up, we 
 passed by several tall masts set up to guide 
 travellers, so as for many miles they stand 
 in ken of one another, like to our beacons. 
 In some places, where there is a cleft 
 between two mountains, the snow fills it 
 up, whilst the bottom, being thawed, 
 leaves as it were a frozen arch of snow, 
 and that so hard as to bear the greatest 
 weight ; for as it snows often, so it per- 
 petually freezes, of which I was so sensible 
 that it flawed the very skin of my face. 
 
 Beginning now to descend a little, Cap- 
 tain Wray's horse (that was our sumpter 
 and carried all our baggage) plunging 
 through a bank of loose snow, slid down a 
 frightful precipice, which so incensed the 
 choleric cavalier, his master, that he was 
 sending a brace of bullets into the poor 
 beast, lest our guide should recover him, 
 and run away with his burden ; but, just 
 as he was lifting up his carbine, we gave 
 such a shout, and so pelted the horse with 
 snowballs, as with all his might plunging 
 through the snow, he fell from another 
 steep place into another bottom, near a 
 path we were to pass. It was yet a good 
 while ere we got to him, but at last we re- 
 covered the place, and, easing him of his 
 charge, hauled him out of the snow, where 
 he had been certainly frozen in, if we had 
 not prevented it, before night. It was as 
 we judged almost two miles that he had 
 slid and fallen, yet without any other harm 
 than the benumbing of his limbs for the 
 present, but, with lusty rubbing and chafing 
 he began to move, and, after a little walk- 
 ing, performed his journey well enough. 
 All this way, affrighted with the disaster of 
 this horse, we trudged on foot, driving our 
 mules before us ; sometimes we fell, some- 
 times we slid, through this ocean of snow, 
 which after October is impassable. To- 
 
 wards night, we came into a larger way, 
 through vast woods of pines, which clothe 
 the middle parts of these rocks. Here, 
 they were burning some to make pitch and 
 rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we 
 do to make charcoal, reserving what melts 
 from them, which hardens into pitch. We 
 passed several cascades of dissolved snow, 
 that had made channels of formidable depth 
 in the crevices of the mountains, and with 
 such a fearful roaring as we could hear it 
 for seven long miles. It is from these 
 sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, 
 which pass through all France and Ger- 
 many, derive their originals. Late at 
 night, we got to a town called Briga, at the 
 foot of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost 
 every door had nailed on the outside and 
 next the street a bear's, wolfs, or fox's 
 head, and divers of them all three ; a 
 savage kind of sight, but, as the Alps are 
 full of the beasts, the people often kill 
 them. The next morning, we returned to 
 our guide, and took fresh mules, and 
 another to conduct us to the Lake of 
 Geneva, passing through as pleasant a 
 country as that we had just travelled was 
 melancholy and troublesome. A strange 
 and sudden change it seemed ; for the re- 
 verberation of the sunbeams from the 
 mountains and rocks that like walls range 
 it on both sides, not above two flight-shots 
 in breadth, for a very great number of 
 miles, renders the passage excessively hot. 
 Through such extremes we continued our 
 journey, that goodly river, the Rhone, 
 gliding by us in a narrow and quiet channel 
 almost in the middle of this Canton, ferti- 
 lising the country for grass and corn, which 
 grow here in abundance. 
 
 We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty 
 town and city, a bishop's seat, and the 
 head of Valesia [Valais]. There is a 
 castle, and the bishop who resides in it has 
 both civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. 
 Our host, as the custom of these Cantons 
 is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and 
 had been a Colonel in France ; he treated 
 us with extreme civility, and was so dis- 
 pleased at the usage we received at Mount 
 Simplon, that he would needs give us a 
 letter to the Governor of the country, who 
 resided at St. Maurice, which was in our 
 way to Geneva, to revenge the afront. 
 This was a true old blade, and had been a 
 
140 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1646 
 
 very curious virtuoso, as we found by a 
 handsome collection of books, medals, 
 pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He 
 showed two heads and horns of the true 
 Capricorn, 1 which animal he told us was 
 frequently killed among the mountains ; 
 one branch of them was as much as I could 
 well lift, and near as high as my head, not 
 much unlike the greater sort of goat's, save 
 that they bent forwards, by help whereof 
 they climb up and hang on inaccessible 
 rocks, from whence the inhabitants now 
 and then shoot them. They speak pro- 
 digious things of their leaping from crag 
 to crag, and of their sure footing, notwith- 
 standing their being cloven-footed, unapt 
 (one would think) to take hold and walk 
 so steadily on those horrible ridges as they 
 do. The Colonel would have given me 
 one of these beams, but the want of a 
 convenience to carry it along with me, 
 caused me to refuse his courtesy. He told 
 me that in the castle there were some 
 Roman and Christian antiquities, and he 
 had some inscriptions in his own garden. 
 He invited us to his country-house, where 
 he said he had better pictures, and other 
 rarities ; but, our time being short, I could 
 not persuade my companions to stay and 
 visit the places he would have had us see, 
 nor the offer he made to show us the 
 hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild 
 beasts. The next morning, having pre- 
 sented his daughter, a pretty well-fashioned 
 young woman, with a small ruby ring, 
 we parted somewhat late from our generous 
 host. 
 
 Passing through the same pleasant valley 
 between the horrid mountains on either 
 hand, like a gallery many miles in length, 
 we got to Martigny, where also we were 
 well entertained. The houses in this 
 country are all built of fir boards, planed 
 within, low, and seldom above one story. 
 The people very clownish and rusticly 
 clad, after a very odd fashion, for the most 
 part in blue cloth, very whole and warm, 
 with little variety of distinction betwixt 
 the gentleman and common sort, by a law 
 of their country being exceedingly frugal. 
 Add to this their great honesty and fidelity, 
 though exacting enough for what they part 
 with. I saw not one beggar. We paid 
 the value of twenty shillings English, for 
 1 Ibex, or steinbok. 
 
 a day's hire of one horse. Every man 
 goes with a sword by his side, the whole 
 country well disciplined, and indeed im- 
 pregnable, which made the Romans have 
 such ill success against them ; one lusty 
 Swiss at their narrow passages is sufficient 
 to repel a legion. It is a frequent thing 
 here for a young tradesman, or farmer, to 
 leave his wife and children for twelve or 
 fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the 
 wars in Spain, France, Italy, or Germany, 
 and then return again to work. I look 
 upon this country to be the safest spot of 
 all Europe, neither envied nor envying ; 
 nor are any of them rich, nor poor ; they 
 live in great simplicity and tranquillity ; 
 and, though of the fourteen Cantons half 
 be Roman Catholics, the rest Reformed, 
 yet they mutually agree, and are con- 
 federate with Geneva, and are its only 
 security against its potent neighbours, as 
 they themselves are from being attacked 
 by the greater potentates, by the mutual 
 jealousy of their neighbours, as either of 
 them would be overbalanced, should the 
 Swiss, who are wholly mercenary and 
 auxiliaries, be subjected to France or 
 Spain. 
 
 We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a 
 large handsome town and residence of the 
 President, where justice is done. To him 
 we presented our letter from Sion, and 
 made known the ill-usage we had received 
 for killing a wretched goat, which so 
 incensed him, as he sware if we would 
 stay he would not only help us to our 
 money again, but most severely punish the 
 whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge 
 had by this time subsided, and glad we 
 were to be gotten so near France, which 
 we reckoned as good as home. He 
 courteously invited us to dine with him ; 
 but we excused ourselves, and, returning 
 to our inn, whilst we were eating some- 
 thing before we took horse, the Governor 
 had caused two pages to bring us a present 
 of two great vessels of covered plate full 
 of excellent wine, in which we drank his 
 health, and rewarded the youths ; they 
 were two vast bowls supported by two 
 Swisses, handsomely wrought after the 
 German manner. This civility and that of 
 our host at Sion, perfectly reconciled us 
 to the highlanders ; and so, proceeding 
 on our journey, we passed this afternoon 
 
1646] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 141 
 
 through the gate which divides the Valais 
 from the Duchy of Savoy, into which we 
 were now entering, and so, through 
 Monthey, we arrived that evening at 
 Beveretta [Bouveret]. Being extremely 
 weary and complaining of my head, and 
 finding little accommodation in the house, 
 I caused one of our hostess's daughters to 
 be removed out of her bed, 1 and went 
 immediately into it whilst it was yet warm, 
 being so heavy with pain and drowsiness 
 that I would not stay to have the sheets 
 changed ; but I shortly after paid dearly 
 for my impatience, falling sick of the 
 small-pox so soon as I came to Geneva, 
 for by the smell of frankincense and the tale 
 the good woman told me of her daughter 
 having had an ague, I afterwards concluded 
 she had been newly recovered of the small- 
 pox. Notwithstanding this, I went with 
 my company, the next day, hiring a bark 
 to carry us over the lake ; and indeed sick 
 as I was, the weather was so serene and 
 bright, the water so calm, and air so 
 temperate, that never had travellers a 
 sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed the 
 whole length of the lake, about thirty 
 miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy 
 and Berne) affording one of the most 
 delightful prospects in the world, the Alps 
 covered With snow, though at a great 
 distance, yet showing their aspiring tops. 
 Through this lake, the river Rhodanus 
 passes with that velocity as not to mingle 
 with its exceeding deep waters, 2 which are 
 very clear, and breed the most celebrated 
 trout for largeness and goodness of any in 
 Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of 
 three feet in length sold in the market for 
 a small price, and such we had in the 
 
 1 [Evelyn's action on this occasion has been 
 cited to the prejudice of his philanthropy. But it 
 should be borne in mind that, besides being 
 "extremely weary," he was— as Southey suggests 
 —actually sickening for the small-pox, although 
 he did not know it ; and it may be added that 
 when he says " I caused," he probably only 
 assented to a proposal made by a compliant 
 hostess.l 
 
 2 ["Of all the fables which credulity delights to 
 believe and propagate, this should appear the most 
 impossible to obtain credit, for the Rhone, when it 
 enters the lake, is both of the colour and con- 
 sistency of pease -soup, and it issues out of it 
 perfectly clear, and of so deep a blue that no 
 traveller can ever have beheld it without astonish- 
 ment " (Southey in Quarterly Review, April, 18 18, 
 p. 14.] 
 
 lodging where we abode, which was at the 
 White Cross. All this while, I held up 
 tolerably ; and the next morning having a 
 letter for Signor John Diodati, the famous 
 Italian minister and translator of the Holy 
 Bible into that language, 1 I went to his 
 house, and had a great deal of discourse 
 with that learned person. He told me 
 that he had been in England, driven by 
 tempest into Deal, whilst sailing for 
 Holland, that he had seen London, and 
 was exceedingly taken with the civilities 
 he received. He so much approved of our 
 Church-government by Bishops, that he 
 told me the French Protestants would 
 make no scruple to submit to it and all its 
 pomp, had they a King of the Reformed 
 religion as we had. He exceedingly de- 
 plored the difference now between his 
 Majesty and the Parliament. After dinner, 
 came one Monsieur Saladine, with his 
 little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, 2 to 
 visit us, offering to carry us to the principal 
 places of the town ; but, being now no 
 more able to hold up my head, I was con- 
 strained to keep my chamber, imagining 
 that my very eyes would have dropped 
 out ; and this night I felt such a stinging 
 about me, that I could not sleep. In the 
 morning, I was very ill, but sending for a 
 doctor, he persuaded me to be let blood. 
 He was a very learned old man, and, as 
 he said, he had been physician to Gustavus 
 the Great, King of Sweden, when he 
 passed this way into Italy, under the name 
 of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of 
 Gustavus Adolphus Rex Suecise, and of 
 our famous Duke of Buckingham, on his 
 returning out of Italy. He afterwards 
 acknowledged that he should not have 
 bled me, had he suspected the small-pox, 
 which brake out a clay after. He after- 
 wards purged me, and applied leeches, and 
 God knows what this would have pro- 
 duced, if the spots had not appeared, for 
 he was thinking of blooding me again. 
 
 1 [Giovanni Diodati, 1576-1649. He was the 
 uncle of Charles Diodati, 1608-38, the physician, 
 whose death prompted Milton's Epitaphium 
 Damom's.] 
 
 2 Charles, third Baron Dormer, b. 1632, suc- 
 ceeded, in September, 1643, as second Earl of 
 Carnarvon ; his father having been killed at the 
 first battle of Newbury (20th Sept.), where he 
 was in arms for the King as a general of Horse. 
 The second Earl died on the 29th of September, 
 7709. 
 
142 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1646 
 
 They now kept me warm in bed for sixteen 
 days, tended by a vigilant Swiss matron, 
 whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes 
 awaked out of unquiet slumbers, would 
 affright me. After the pimples were come 
 forth, which were not many, I had much 
 ease as to pain, but infinitely afflicted with 
 heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, 
 after five weeks' keeping my chamber, I 
 went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his 
 lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur 
 Le Chat, my physician, to excuse his 
 letting me blood, told me it was so burnt 
 and vicious as it would have proved the 
 plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded 
 by any other method. On my recovering 
 sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Mon- 
 sieur Saladine's, and in the afternoon went 
 across the water on the side of the lake, 
 and took a lodging that stood exceedingly 
 pleasant, about half a mile from the city, 
 for the better airing ; but I stayed only 
 one night, having no company there, save 
 my pipe ; so, the next day, I caused them 
 to row me about the lake as far as the 
 great stone, which they call Neptune's 
 Rock, on which they say sacrifice was 
 anciently offered to him. Thence I landed 
 at certain cherry-gardens and pretty villas 
 by the side of the lake, and exceedingly 
 pleasant. Returning, I visited their con- 
 servatories of fish ; in which were trouts 
 of six and seven feet long, as they affirmed. 
 
 The Rhone, which parts the city in the 
 midst, dips into a cavern underground, 
 about six miles from it, and afterwards rises 
 again, and runs its open course, like our 
 Mole, or Swallow, 1 by Dorking, in Surrey. 
 The next morning (being Thursday) I heard 
 Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, many of that 
 country, especially of Lucca, his native 
 place, being inhabitants of Geneva, and of 
 the Reformed religion. 
 
 The town lying between Germany, 
 France, and Italy, those three tongues 
 are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. 
 It is a strong, well-fortified city, part of it 
 built on a rising ground. The houses are 
 not despicable, but the high pent -houses 
 (for I can hardly call them cloisters, being 
 all of wood), through which the people 
 pass dry and in the shade, winter and 
 
 1 [The swallows of the Mole are hollows under- 
 ground into which that river disappears at intervals 
 (Murray's Surrey, 1898, pp. 93-95).] 
 
 summer, exceedingly deform the fronts of 
 the buildings, Here are abundance of 
 booksellers ; but their books are of ill 
 impressions ; these, with watches (of which 
 store are made here), crystal, and excellent 
 screwed guns, are the staple commodities. 
 All provisions are good and cheap. 
 
 The Town-house is fairly built of stone ; 
 the portico has four black marble columns ; 
 and, on a table of the same, under the city 
 arms, a demi- eagle and cross, between 
 cross-keys, is a motto, "Post Tenebras 
 Lux," and this inscription : 
 
 Quum anno 1535 profligata Romana Anti- 
 Christi Tyrannide, abrogatisq; ejus super- 
 stitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hie 
 in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem 
 ordinem singulari Dei beneficio reposita, et 
 simul pulsis fugatisq; hostibus, urbs ipsa in 
 suam Libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, 
 restituta fuerit ; Senatus Populusq; Gene- 
 vensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memorise 
 causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quod 
 suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad posteros 
 testatum fuerit. 
 
 The territories about the town are not 
 so large as many ordinary gentlemen have 
 about their country farms, for which cause 
 they are in continual watch, especially on 
 the Savoy side ; but, in case of any siege, 
 the Swiss are at hand, as this inscription in 
 the same place shows, towards the street : 
 
 D.O.M.S. 
 
 Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri 
 Libertate Genevas restituta, et quasi novo 
 Jubilaeo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et 
 foris insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et 
 cum Helvetiorum Primari Tigurini aequo 
 jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum ven- 
 erint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses 
 prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint, S. P. Q.G. 
 quod felix esse velit D.O. M. tanti benificii 
 monumentum consecrarunt, anno temporis 
 ultimi ceo. ID. XXXI v. 
 
 In the Senate - house, were fourteen 
 ancient urns, dug up as they were remov- 
 ing earth in the fortifications. 
 
 A little out of the town is a spacious 
 field, which they call Campus Martius ; 
 and well it may be so termed, with better 
 reason than that at Rome at present (which 
 is no more a field, but all built into streets), 
 
1646] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 H3 
 
 for here on every Sunday, after the evening 
 devotions, this precise people permit their 
 youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, 
 and in the long and cross bows, in which 
 they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be 
 as dexterous as any people in the world. 
 To encourage this, they yearly elect him 
 who has won most prizes at the mark, to 
 be their king, as the king of the long bow, 
 gun, or cross bow. He then wears that 
 weapon in his hat in gold, with a crown 
 over it, made fast to the hat like a brooch. 
 In this field, is a long house wherein their 
 arms and furniture are kept in several places 
 very neatly. To this joins a hall, where, 
 at certain times, they meet and feast ; in 
 the glass-windows are the arms and names 
 of their kings [of arms]. At the side of 
 the field, is a very noble Pali-Mall, but it 
 turns with an elbow. There is also a 
 bowling-place, a tavern, and a trey-table, 
 and here they ride their managed horses. 
 It is also the usual place of public execution 
 of those who suffer for any capital crime, 
 though committed in another country, by 
 which law divers fugitives have been put 
 to death, who have fled hither to escape 
 punishment in their own country. Amongst 
 other severe punishments here, adultery is 
 death. Having seen this field, and played 
 a game at mall, I supped with Mr. Sala- 
 dine. 
 
 On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach 
 in French, and after the French mode, in 
 a gown with a cape, and his hat on. The 
 Church - government is severely Presby- 
 terian, after the discipline of Calvin and 
 Beza, who set it up, but nothing so rigid 
 as either our Scots or English sectaries 
 of that denomination. In the afternoon, 
 Monsieur Morice, a most learned young 
 person and excellent poet, chief Professor 
 of the University, preached at St. Peter's, 
 a spacious Gothic fabric. This was hereto- 
 fore a cathedral and a reverend pile. It 
 has four turrets, on one of which stands a 
 continual sentinel ; in another, cannons are 
 mounted. The church is very decent with- 
 in ; nor have they at all defaced the painted 
 windows, which are full of pictures of 
 saints ; nor the stalls, which are all carved 
 with the history of our Blessed Saviour. 
 
 In the afternoon, I went to see the young 
 townsmen exercise in Mars' Field, where 
 the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes ; 
 
 'tis said that some have gained competent 
 estates by what they have thus won. Here 
 I first saw huge ballistce, or cross-bows, 
 shot in, being such as they formerly used 
 in wars, before great guns were known ; 
 they were placed in frames, and had great 
 screws to bend them, doing execution at 
 an incredible distance. They were most 
 accurate at the long-bow and musket, rarely 
 missing the smallest mark. I was as busy 
 with the carbine I brought from Brescia as 
 any of them. After every shot, I found 
 them go into a long -house, and cleanse 
 their guns, before they charged again. 
 
 On Monday, I was invited to a little 
 garden without the works, where were 
 many rare tulips, anemones, and other 
 choice flowers. The Rhone, running 
 athwart the town out of the Lake, makes 
 half the city a suburb, which, in imitation 
 of Paris, they call St. Gervais Faubourg, 
 and it has a church of the same name. On 
 two wooden bridges that cross the river 
 are several water-mills, and shops of trades, 
 especially smiths and cutlers ; between the 
 bridges is an island, in the midst of which 
 is a very ancient tower, said to have been 
 built by Julius Caesar. At the end of the 
 other bridge is the mint, and a fair sun- 
 dial. 
 
 Passing again by the Town-house, I saw 
 a large crocodile hanging in chains ; and 
 against the wall of one of the chambers, 
 seven judges were painted without hands, 
 except one in the middle, who has but one 
 hand ; I know not the story. The Arsenal 
 is at the end of this building, well furnished 
 and kept. 
 
 After dinner, Mr. Morice led us to the 
 college, a fair structure ; in the lower part 
 are the schools, which consist of nine 
 classes ; and a hall above, where the 
 students assemble ; also a good library. 
 They showed us a very ancient Bible, of 
 about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, 
 and a MS. in the old Monkish character: 
 here have the Professors their lodgings. I 
 also went to the Hospital, which is very 
 commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is 
 now a prison. 
 
 This town is not much celebrated for 
 beautiful women, for, even at this distance 
 from the Alps, the gentlewomen have some- 
 thing full throats ; but our Captain Wray 
 (afterwards Sir William, eldest son of that 
 
144 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1647 
 
 Sir Christopher, who had both been in 
 arms against his Majesty for the Parlia- 
 ment) fell so mightily in love with one of 
 Monsieur Saladine's daughters that, with 
 much persuasion, he could not be prevailed 
 on to think on his journey into France, the 
 season now coming on extremely hot. 
 
 My sickness and abode here cost me 
 forty-five pistoles of gold to my host, and 
 five to my honest doctor, who for six 
 weeks' attendance and the apothecary 
 thought it so generous a reward that, at 
 my taking leave, he presented me with his 
 advice for the regimen of my health, 
 written with his own hand in Latin. This 
 regimen I much observed, and I bless God 
 passed the journey without inconvenience 
 from sickness, but it was an extraordinarily 
 hot unpleasant season and journey, by 
 reason of the craggy ways. 
 
 yhjuly. We took, or rather purchased, 
 a boat, for it could not be brought back 
 against the stream of the Rhone. We 
 were two days going to Lyons, passing 
 many admirable prospects of rocks and 
 cliffs, and near the town down a very steep 
 declivity of water for a full mile. From 
 Lyons, we proceeded the next morning, 
 taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night 
 at Feurs. At Roanne, we indulged our- 
 selves with the best that all France affords, 
 for here the provisions are choice and 
 plentiful, so as the supper we had might 
 have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask 
 beds, and were treated like emperors. The 
 town is one of the neatest built in all 
 France, on the brink of the Loire ; and 
 here we agreed with an old fisher to row 
 us as far as Orleans. The first night, we 
 came as far as Nevers, early enough to see 
 the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyr), the 
 Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a Palace 
 of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly 
 built. 
 
 The next day, we passed by La Charite, 
 a pretty town, somewhat distant from the 
 river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel 
 (Piccioli), who had followed me from Rome. 
 It seems he had been taken up by some of 
 the Governor's pages, or footmen, without 
 recovery ; which was a great displeasure 
 to me, because the cur had many useful 
 qualities. 
 
 The next day, we arrived at Orleans, 
 taking our turns to row, of which I reckon 
 
 my share came to little less that twenty 
 leagues. Sometimes, we footed it through 
 pleasant fields and meadows ; sometimes, 
 we shot at fowls, and other birds ; nothing 
 came amiss : sometimes, we played at 
 cards, whilst others sung, or were com- 
 posing verses ; for we had the great poet, 
 Mr. Waller, 1 in our company, and some 
 other ingenious persons. 
 
 At Orleans, we abode but one day ; the 
 next, leaving our mad Captain behind us, 
 I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that, after so 
 many disasters and accidents in a tedious 
 peregrination, I was gotten so near home, 
 and here I resolved to rest myself before I 
 went farther. 
 
 It was now October, and the only time 
 in my whole life that I spent most idly, 
 tempted from my more profitable recesses ;- 
 but I soon recovered my better resolutions 
 and fell to my study, learning the high 
 Dutch and Spanish tongues, and now and 
 then refreshing my dancing, and such 
 exercises as I had long omitted, and which 
 are not in much reputation amongst the 
 sober Italians. 
 
 1647 : ?&th January. I changed my 
 lodging in the Place de Monsieur de Metz, 
 near the Abbey of St. Germain ; and thence, 
 on the 1 2th February, to another in Rue 
 Columbier, where I had a very fair apart- 
 ment, which cost me four pistoles per 
 month. The 18th, I frequented a course 
 of chemistry, the famous Monsieur Lefevre s 
 operating upon most of the nobler pro- 
 cesses. March 3rd, Monsieur Mercure 
 began to teach me on the lute, though to 
 small perfection. 
 
 In May, I fell sick, and had very weak 
 eyes ; for which I was four times let blood. 
 
 2.2.nd May. My valet (Hebert) robbed 
 me of clothes and plate, to the value of 
 threescore pounds ; but, through the dili- 
 gence of Sir Richard Browne, 4 his Majesty's 
 Resident at the Court of France, and with 
 whose lady and family I had contracted a 
 great friendship (and particularly set my 
 affections on a daughter 5 ), I recovered 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 130.] 
 
 2 [Retirements.] 
 
 3 [Nicasius or Nicolas Lefevre, d. 1669, after- 
 wards Charles II. 's professor of chemistry, and 
 apothecary to the Royal Household. He was an 
 F.R.S. (see^ost, under 20th September, 1662).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 28.] 
 
 5 [Mary Browne.] 
 
1648] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 145 
 
 most of them, obtaining of the Judge, with 
 no small difficulty, that the process against 
 the thief should not concern his life, being 
 his first offence. 
 
 10th June. We concluded about my 
 marriage, in order to which I went to St. 
 Germain, where his Majesty, then Prince 
 of Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. 
 Earle, 1 then one of his chaplains (since 
 Dean of Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, 
 and Bishop of Salisbury), that he would 
 accompany me to Paris, which he did ; 
 and, on Thursday, 27th June 1647, he 
 married us in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, 
 betwixt the hours of eleven and twelve, 
 some few select friends being present. 
 And this being Corpus Christi feast, was 
 solemnly observed* in this country ; the 
 streets were sumptuously hung with tapestry, 
 and strewed with flowers. 
 
 10th September. Being called into Eng- 
 land, to settle my affairs after an absence 
 of four years, I took leave of the Prince 
 and Queen, leaving my wife, yet very 
 young, 2 under the care of an excellent lady 
 and prudent mother. 
 
 4/h October. I sealed and declared my 
 will, and that morning went from Paris, 
 taking my journey through Rouen, Dieppe, 
 Villedieu, and St. Valery, where I stayed 
 one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I 
 had some affairs, and for which cause I 
 took this circle to Calais, where I arrived 
 on the nth, and that night embarking in 
 the packet-boat, was by one o'clock got 
 safe to Dover ; for which I heartily put up 
 jny thanks to God, who had conducted me 
 safe to my own country, and been merci- 
 ful to me through so many aberrations. 
 Hence, taking post, I arrived at London 
 the next day at evening, being the second 
 of October, new style. 
 
 1 John Earle, 1601-65, finished his education at 
 Merton College, Oxford, where he took his degree 
 of Doctor of Divinity. He was appointed sub- 
 tutor to Prince Charles, son of Charles I., whom 
 he afterwards attended when abroad, as chaplain. 
 Returning to England at the Restoration, he was 
 successively made Dean of Westminster, Clerk of 
 the Closet, Bishop of Worcester, and Bishop of 
 Salisbury. He was the author of a Latin transla- 
 tion of the Eikon Basilike, of Micro -co sin ographie, 
 or. a Pecceofthe World discovered, in Essayes and 
 Characters, 1628, and of An Elegy on Mr. Francis 
 Beaumont. 
 
 2 [On her tombstone in Wotton Church she is 
 stated to have been " in the seventy- fourth year of 
 her age " in February, 1 709. ] 
 
 5M. I came to Wotton, the place of 
 my birth, to my brother, and on the 10th 
 to Hampton Court, 1 where I had the 
 honour to kiss his Majesty's hand, and 
 give him an account of several things I had 
 in charge, he being now in the power of 
 those execrable villains who not long after 
 murdered him. I lay at my cousin, 
 Serjeant Hatton's, at Thames - Ditton, 2 
 whence, on the 13th, I went to London. 
 
 14M. To Sayes Court, 3 at Deptford, in 
 Kent (since my house), where I found Mr. 
 Pretyman, 4 my wife's uncle, who had charge 
 of it and the estate about it, during my 
 father-in-law's residence in France. On 
 the 15th, I again occupied my own 
 chambers in the Middle Temple. 
 
 gt/i November. My sister opened to me 
 her marriage with Mr. Glanville. 6 
 
 1647-8: 1 /\tk January. From London 
 I went to Wotton, to see my young 
 nephew ; and thence to Baynards 6 [in 
 Ewhurst], to visit my brother Richard. 
 
 $tk February. Saw a tragi-comedy acted 
 in the Cockj-pit, after there had been none 
 
 1 [The King had been a prisoner at Hampton 
 Court since 24th August, but his captivity was not 
 strict. " Persons of all conditions repaired to his 
 majesty of those who had served him, lords and 
 ladies with whom he conferred without reserva- 
 tion ; and the citizens flocked thither, as they had 
 used to do at the end of a progress, when the king 
 had been some months absent from London : but 
 that which pleased his majesty most, was, that his 
 children were permitted to come, in whom he took 
 great delight " (Clarendon's History 0/ the Re- 
 bellion, 1888, iv. 250). His children were at the 
 Duke of Northumberland's, Syon House (see post, 
 under 7th July, 1665).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 25.] 
 
 3 [This is Evelyn's earliest reference to the 
 habitation in which he subsequently lived for forty 
 years. Irs name came from the Say family, who 
 had owned it in the twelfth century ; but by the 
 time of James I. it had reverted to the Crown, and 
 was occupied by the Brownes, who came from 
 Essex (see post, under 12th March, 1683). At the 
 death of Sir Richard Browne in 1604, it had passed 
 to his son Christopher, d. 1645, and thence to 
 Christopher's only son, another Sir Richard Browne, 
 Evelyn's father-in-law (see ante, p. 28), at this 
 time, October, 1647, English Resident at Paris. 
 After King Charles's death, the manor and house 
 were seized by the Commonwealth, and sold. (For 
 the further history of Sayes Court, see post, under 
 gth March, 1652, and 22nd February, 1653.).] 
 
 ■* [William Pretyman was executor to Christopher 
 Browne above mentioned. Mrs. Evelyn's mother 
 was a daughter of Sir John Pretyman of Dryfield.] 
 
 5 [Jane Evelyn, who married William Glanville 
 of Devon.] 
 
 6 [Richard Evelyn's house (see post, under 5th 
 May, 1657).] 
 
146 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1648 
 
 of these diversions for many years during 
 the war. 
 
 28M February. I went with my noble 
 friend, Sir William Ducie 1 (afterwards Lord 
 Downe), to Thistleworth, where we dined 
 with Sir Clepesby Crew, 2 and afterwards to 
 see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver,' 5 and 
 rounds of plaster, and then the curious 
 flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has some 
 good metals and pictures. Sir Clepesby 
 has fine Indian hangings, and a very good 
 chimney-piece of water-colours, by Brue- 
 ghel, which I bought for him. 
 
 26th April. There was a great uproar 
 in London that the rebel army quartering 
 at Whitehall would plunder the City, on 
 which there was published a Proclamation 
 for all to stand on their guard. 
 
 4//1 May. Came up the Essex petitioners 
 for an agreement betwixt his Majesty and 
 the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men 
 addressed the Parliament for the same ; of 
 which some of them were slain and mur- 
 dered by Cromwell's guards, in the New 
 Palace Yard. I now sold the impropria- 
 tion of South Mailing, 4 near Lewes, in 
 Sussex, to Mr. Kemp and Alcock, for 
 £3000. 
 
 ^oth. There was a rising now in Kent, 
 my Lord of Norwich being at the head of 
 them. Their first rendezvous was in 
 Broome -field, next my house at Sayes 
 Court, whence they went to Maidstone, 
 and so to Colchester, where was that 
 memorable siege. 5 
 
 27th June. I purchased the manor of 
 
 1 The son of Sir Robert Ducie, the wealthy Lord 
 Mayor, created a baronet by Charles in 1629 ; his 
 only return for about .£80,000 which Charles I. had 
 borrowed from him. Sir William was made one of 
 the Knights of the Bath, and created Viscount 
 Downe at the coronation of Charles II. Dying 
 without issue, his estates descended to the only 
 daughter of his younger brother, whose son was 
 Lord Ducie in 1720, and from him descended the 
 present Earl of Ducie. 
 
 2 [Whose " Nuptiall Song" was written by 
 Her rick.] 
 
 3 [Peter Oliver, 1601-60, son of Isaac Oliver, and 
 even more famous as a miniature painter. He also 
 copied the great masters in little (see post, under 
 1st November, 1660, and nth May, 1661).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 3.] 
 
 5 [The Kentish men were defeated by Fairfax, 
 1st June. A party of them, under the Earl of 
 Norwich (see ante, p. 12), tried to enter London, 
 but were foiled by Skippon. They then (12th 
 June) occupied Colchester, which eventually sur- 
 rendered to Fairfax, 27th August.] 
 
 Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of my brother 
 George, for £3300. 
 
 1st July. I sate for my picture, in which 
 there is a Death's head, to Mr. Walker, 
 that excellent painter. 1 
 
 \oth. News was brought me of my 
 Lord Francis Villiers being slain by the 
 rebels near Kingston.' 2 
 
 16th August. I went to Woodcote (in 
 Epsom) to the wedding of my brother 
 Richard, who married the daughter and 
 co-heir of Esquire Minn, lately deceased ; 3 
 by which he had a great estate both in 
 land and money on the death of a brother. 
 The coach in which the bride and bride- 
 groom were, was overturned in coming 
 home ; but no harm was done. 
 
 28th. To London from Sayes Court, 
 and saw the celebrated follies of Bartholo- 
 mew Fair. 
 
 i6tk September. Came my lately married 
 brother Richard and his wife, to visit me, 
 when I showed them Greenwich, and her 
 Majesty's Palace, now possessed by the 
 rebels. 
 
 28th. I went to Albury, to visit the 
 Countess of Arundel, 4 and returned to 
 Wotton. 
 
 31st October. I went to see my manor of 
 Preston Beckhelvyn, and the Cliff house. 
 
 2gt/i November. Myself, with Mr. 
 Thomas Offley, 5 and Lady Gerrard, 
 christened my Niece Mary, eldest daughter 
 of my brother George Evelyn, by my Lady 
 Cotton, his second wife. I presented my 
 
 1 [Robert Walker, d. 1658?— " Cromwell's 
 portrait painter." His portrait, by himself, is in 
 the Public Dining-Room at Hampton Court. The 
 likeness of Evelyn mentioned in the text is now 
 in the picture-gallery at Wotton House. It was 
 exhibited at South Kensington in 1866. Another 
 portrait of Evelyn by Walker, formerly in the 
 possession of Mr. Watson Taylor, is engraved by 
 William Henry Worthington in vol. v. (1828) of 
 Dallaway's edition of Walpole's Anecdotes of 
 Pai?iting, p. 171. See post, under 6th August, 
 1650.] 
 
 2 [Younger brother of the Duke of Buckingham, 
 1628-48. Clarendon speaks of him as "a youth of 
 rare beauty and comeliness of person " {Hist. Re- 
 bellion, 1826, vi. 97).] 
 
 3 [George Minn, or Mynne, of Woodcote Park, 
 near Epsom. The bride's Christian name was 
 Elizabeth (Pepys's Diary, 14th July, 1667).] 
 
 4 [Probably the widow of Thomas, second Earl 
 of Arundel (see ante, p. 130).] 
 
 5 [Thomas Offley, Groom- Porter. Lady Cotton 
 was daughter of Sir Robert Offley, of Dalby, in 
 Leicestershire.] 
 
1649] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 >47 
 
 Niece a piece of Plate which cost me ^18, 
 and caused this inscription to be set on it : 
 
 In memoriam facti : 
 Anno do Ix. xlnx. Cal. Decern, vill. 
 Virginum castiss: Xtianorum innocentiss: 
 Nept: suavis: Mariae, Johan: Evelynus 
 Avunculus et Susceptor Vasculum hoc cum 
 Epigraphe L. M. Q. D. 
 
 Ave Maria Gratia sis plena ; Dominus 
 tecum. 
 
 2nd Decejnber. This day I sold my 
 manor of Hurcott for ^3400 to one Mr. 
 Bridges. 1 
 
 13M. The Parliament now sat up the 
 whole night, and endeavoured to have con- 
 cluded the Isle of Wight Treaty ; but were 
 surprised by the rebel army ; the Members 
 dispersed, and great confusion everywhere 
 in expectation of what would be next. 
 
 Vjth* I heard an Italian sermon, in 
 Mercers' Chapel, 2 one Dr. Middleton, an 
 acquaintance of mine, preaching. 
 
 i&t/i. I got privately into the council of 
 the rebel army, at Whitehall, where I heard 
 horrid villainies. 
 
 This was a most exceeding wet year, 
 neither frost nor snow all the winter for 
 more than six days in all. Cattle died 
 everywhere of a murrain. 
 ■ 1648-9 : 1st January. I had a lodging 
 and some books at my father - in - law's 
 house, Sayes Court. 3 
 
 2nd. I went to see my old friend and 
 fellow-traveller, Mr. Henshaw, 4 who had 
 two rare pieces of Steenwyck's perspective. 
 
 iyt/1. To London. I heard the. rebel, 
 Peters, incite the rebel powers met in the 
 Painted Chamber, 5 to destroy his Majesty ; 
 and saw that arch-traitor, Bradshaw, who 
 not long after condemned him. 
 
 igtk. I returned home, passing an 
 extraordinary danger of being drowned by 
 
 1 [Ante, p. 146.] 
 
 2 [Burned in the fire of 1666.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 145.] 4 [See ante, p. 56.] 
 5 [The Painted Chamber, or St. Edward's 
 
 Chamber, was in the old Palace of the Kings at 
 Westminster. "Here were held . . . the private 
 sittings of the High Court of Justice, for bringing 
 Charles I. to a public trial in Westminster Hall ; 
 here the death-warrant of the King was signed by 
 Cromwell, Dick Ingoldsby, and the rest of the 
 regicides ; and here the body of the unfortunate 
 King rested till it was removed to Windsor " 
 (Wheatley and Cunningham's London, 1891, 
 iii. 4).] 
 
 our wherries falling foul in the night on 
 another vessel then at anchor, shooting the 
 bridge at three-quarters' ebb, for which 
 His mercy God Almighty be praised. 
 
 2 1 st. Was published my translation of 
 Liberty and Servitude, for the preface of 
 which I was severely threatened. 1 
 
 22nd. I went through a course of 
 chemistry, at Sayes Court. 2 Now was the 
 Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests 
 of wind. 
 
 The villainy of the rebels proceeding 
 now so far as to try, condemn, and murder 
 our excellent King on the 30th of this 
 month struck me with such horror, that I 
 kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and 
 would not be present at that execrable 
 wickedness ; receiving the sad account of 
 it from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, 3 
 who came to visit me this afternoon, and 
 recounted all the circumstances. 
 
 I st February. Now were Duke Hamil- 
 ton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord Capel, etc., 
 at their trial before the rebels' New Court 
 of Injustice. 4 
 
 15M. I went to see the collection of 
 one Trean, a rich merchant, who had 
 some good pictures, especially a rare 
 perspective of Steenwyck ; from thence, 
 to other virtuosos. 
 
 The painter, La Neve, 5 has an Andro- 
 meda, but I think it a copy after Vandyck 
 from Titian, for the original is in France. 
 Webb, at the Exchange, has some rare 
 things in miniature, of Brueghel's, also 
 putti, 6 in twelve squares, that were 
 plundered from Sir James Palmer. 
 
 1 [" Of Liberty and Servitude. Translated 
 out of the French into the English Tongue : and 
 dedicated to Geo. Evelyn, Esquire [Evelyn's elder 
 brother]. London, 1649, izmo." The author was 
 
 be call'd in question by the Rebells for this booke, 
 being published a few days before his Majesty's 
 decollation." It is reprinted in the Miscellaneous 
 Writings, 1825, 1-38.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. .145.] 
 
 3 [Richard Owen of Eltham, 1606-83, ejected for 
 royalism, 1643 ( see Post, under 18th March, 
 1649).] 
 
 4 The Court sat from 10th Feb. to 6th March 
 (see post, p. 148).] 
 
 5 Probably the artist mentioned by Walpole a.s 
 Cornelius Neve, who drew a portrait of Ash mole. 
 [There was a group of himself and his wife and 
 children at Petworth.] 
 
 6 Putti — boys' heads. 
 
148 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1649 
 
 At Dubois', we saw two tables of putti, 
 that were gotten, I know not how, out of 
 the Castle of St. Angelo, by old Petit, 
 thought to be Titian's ; he had some good 
 heads of Palma, and one of Steenwyck. 
 Bellcar showed us an excellent copy of 
 his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the 
 Satyr, with other figures ; for now they 
 had plundered, sold, and dispersed a 
 world of rare paintings of the King's, and 
 his loyal subjects'. After all, Sir William 
 Ducie 1 showed me some excellent things 
 in miniature, and in oil of Holbein's ; Sir 
 Thomas More's head, and a whole-length 
 figure of Ed. VI., which were certainly 
 his Majesty's ; also a picture of Queen 
 Elizabeth ; the Lady Isabella Thynne ; 
 a rare painting of Rottenhammer, being a 
 Susanna ; and a Magdalen of Quintin, the 
 blacksmith ; also a Henry VIII., of Hol- 
 bein ; and Francis the First, rare indeed, 
 but of whose hand I know not. 
 
 i6lk February. Paris being now strictly 
 besieged by the Prince de Conde, my wife 
 being shut up with her father and mother, 
 I wrote a letter of consolation to her : and, 
 on the 22nd, having recommended Obadiah 
 Walker, 2 a learned and most ingenious per- 
 son, to be tutor to, and travel with, Mr. Hil- 
 deyard's 3 two sons, returned to Sayes Court. 
 
 2y.h. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, dis- 
 coverer of the lymphatic vessels, and an 
 excellent anatomist. 4 
 
 26th. Came to see me Captain George 
 Evelyn, 5 my kinsman, the great traveller, 
 and one who believed himself a better 
 architect than really he was ; witness the 
 portico in the garden at Wotton ; yet the 
 great room at Albury is somewhat better 
 understood. He had a large mind, but 
 over-built everything. 
 
 27th. Came out of France my wife's 
 uncle (Paris still besieged), being robbed at 
 sea by the Dunkirk pirates : I lost, among 
 other goods, my wife's picture, painted by 
 Monsieur Bourdon. 6 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 2 Evelyn has added in the margin against 
 Walker's name, "Since an apostate." He was 
 master of University College, Oxford, 1676-89. 
 He died in 1699. 
 
 3 [See post, p. 17 r.] 
 
 4 [George Joyliffe, M.D., 1621-58. His discovery 
 of the lymph ducts was published by Francis 
 Glisson in 1654.] 
 
 5 Second son of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone. 
 
 6 [Sebastian Bourdon,^. 1671?, % fieintre du Roi." 
 
 <fh March. Now were the lords mur- 
 dered in the Palace Yard. 1 
 
 1SI/1. Mr Owen, 2 a sequestered and 
 learned minister, preached in my parlour 
 and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now 
 wholly out of use in the parish churches, 
 on which the Presbyterians and fanatics 
 had usurped. 
 
 2\st. I received letters from Paris from 
 my wife, and from Sir Richard [Browne], 
 with whom I kept up a political corre- 
 spondence, with no small danger of being 
 discovered. 
 
 25M. I heard the Common Prayer (a 
 rare thing in these days) in St. Peter's, at 
 Paul's Wharf, London ; and, in the morn- 
 ing, the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious 
 person and learned man, Ussher, in Lin- 
 coln's Inn Chapel. 
 
 2nd April. To London, and inventoried 
 my movables that had hitherto been dis- 
 persed for fear of plundering : wrote into 
 France, touching my sudden resolutions of 
 coming over to them. On the 8th, again 
 heard an excellent discourse from Arch- 
 bishop Ussher, on Ephes. 4, v. 26-27. 
 
 My Italian collection being now arrived, 
 came Moulins, the great chirurgeon, to 
 see and admire the Tables of Veins and 
 Arteries, which I purchased and caused to 
 be drawn out of several human bodies at 
 Padua. 3 
 
 wth. Received news out of France 
 that peace was concluded ; dined with 
 Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster ; and 
 on the 13th, I saw a private dissection, at 
 Moulins' house. 
 
 "Nwlft. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; 
 was blistered and let blood behind the ears 
 and forehead : on the 23rd, began to have 
 ease by using the fumes of camomile on 
 
 The picture was subsequently recovered (see post, 
 under 1st February and 15th April, 1652. Reynolds 
 had a picture by Bourdon, " The Return of the 
 Ark," which he left in his will to Sir George 
 Beaumont, Bt. (Malone's Works of Reynolds, 1798, 
 i. cxvii. and ii. 168-9.] 
 
 1 The Duke of Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, 
 and Lord Capel. The date should be 9th March. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 147. " You may well imagine, by 
 the manners of the people," writes Evelyn in 1659, 
 "and their prodigious opinions, that there is no 
 Catechism nor Sacraments duely administred : 
 the religion of England is preaching and sitting 
 stil on Sundaies" (A Character of England, 
 Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, p. 153). See also 
 infra, 25th March.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 129.] 
 
1649] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 149 
 
 embers applied to my ears after all the 
 physicians had done their best. 
 
 2tyh April. I saw in London a huge ox 
 bred in Kent, 17 feet in length, and much 
 higher than I could reach. 
 
 \2th May. I purchased the Manor of 
 Warley Magna, in Essex : in the afternoon 
 went to see Gildron's collections of paint- 
 ings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter, 1 
 of his late Majesty's Bedchamber. 
 
 ijth. Went to Putney by water, in the 
 barge with divers ladies, to see the schools, 
 or Colleges, of the young gentlewomen. 2 
 X 19th. To see a rare cabinet of one 
 £rDelabarr, who had some good paintings, 
 especially a monk at his beads. 
 
 30M. Un-kingship was proclaimed, and 
 his Majesty's statues thrown down at St. 
 Paul's Portico and the Exchange. 
 
 1th June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton 3 
 (brother to Sir Ralph, Lord Hopton, that 
 noble hero), who having been Ambassador 
 Extraordinary in Spain, sojourned some 
 time with my Father-in-law at Paris, 
 a most excellent person. Also Signora 
 Lucretia, a Greek Lady, whom I knew in 
 Italy, now come over with her husband, 
 an English gentleman. Also, the Earl 
 and Countess of Arundel, taking leave of 
 them and other friends now ready to 
 depart for France. 4 This night was a 
 scuffle between some rebel soldiers and 
 gentlemen about the Temple. 
 
 10th. Preached the Archbishop of 
 Armagh in Lincoln's- Inn from Romans 5, 
 verse 13. I received the blessed Sacrament, 
 preparatory to my journey. 
 
 13th. I dined with my worthy friend, 
 Sir John Owen, 5 newly freed from sentence 
 
 1 [Endymion Porter, 1587-1649, poet and patron 
 of poets.] 
 
 2 Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, a 
 learned woman of that day. She had been pre- 
 ceptress to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's 
 second daughter, and wrote on education (1673). 
 There is a rare portrait of her, by Marshall. 
 
 3 Sir Arthur Hopton, 1588-1650, was uncle — says 
 Forster — not brother, to Lord Hopton (so well 
 known for his services, to Charles in the course of 
 the Civil War) ; and would have succeeded his 
 nephew in the title, as the latter died childless, but 
 that Sir Arthur had himself died two years before 
 him, also without issue. The title became extinct. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 127 «.] 
 
 5 A Royalist officer, 1600-66, whose life had been 
 forfeited for the part he took against the Parlia- 
 ment. He was condemned with Holland, Capel 
 and the rest (see ante, p. 148) ; but was saved by 
 
 of death among the Lords that suffered. 
 With him was one Carew, who played 
 incomparably on the Welsh harp : after- 
 wards, I treated divers ladies of my rela- 
 tions, in Spring Garden. 1 
 
 This night was buried with great pomp, 
 Dorislaus, 2 slain at the Hague, the villain 
 who managed the trial against his sacred 
 Majesty. 
 
 ijt/i. I got a pass from the rebel 
 Bradshaw, 8 then in great power. 
 
 20t/i. I went to Putney, and other 
 places on the Thames, to take prospects 
 in crayon, to carry into France, where I 
 thought to have them engraved. 4 
 
 2nd July. I went from Wotton to 
 Godstone (the residence of Sir John 
 Evelyn), 5 where was also Sir John Evelyn 
 of Wilts, when I took leave of both Sir 
 Johns and their ladies. Mem. the pro- 
 digious memory of Sir John of Wilts' 
 daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierre- 
 pont, 6 and mother of the present Earl of 
 Kingston. I returned to Sayes Court this 
 night. 
 
 a,th. Visited Lady Hatton, 7 her Lord 
 sojourning at Paris with my father-in-law. 
 
 tyh. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, 8 and 
 
 the timely interposition of Colonel Hutchinson. 
 The latter humanely spoke for him in the House, 
 though Sir John was a perfect stranger to him, 
 because he perceived, while the great noblemen, 
 his companions, found earnest intercessors, no one 
 seemed to know anything of the knight, or would 
 offer a word in favour of him. Sir John Owen 
 afterwards proved himself ungrateful. 
 
 1 [See post, under 10th May, 1654.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Isaac Dorislaus, 1 595-1649, who prepared 
 the charge of high treason against Charles I. He 
 was assassinated by Royalists at the Hague, when 
 Envoy to the States-General.] 
 
 3 [John Bradshaw, the regicide, 1602-59, at this 
 time President of the Council of State (see post, 
 under 17th July, 1650).] 
 
 4 One of these he etched himself. The plate is 
 now at Wotton House. 
 
 5 [Died 1671.] 
 
 6 William Pierrepont was brother of the^Marquis 
 of Dorchester. Evelyn, first Duke of Kingston, 
 his son, was the father of Lady Mary Wortley 
 Montagu.] 
 
 7 Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir Charles 
 Montagu, and niece of Henry Earl of Manchester. 
 She married Sir Christopher Hatton, 1605-70, — 
 made a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of 
 Charles I., who, on the 20th of July, 1643, created 
 him Baron Hatton, of Kirby, for his devotion to 
 the Royal cause. After the Restoration, he was 
 sworn of the Privy Council, and appointed governor 
 of Guernsey. 
 
 8 [Probably the son of Sir Walter Pye, 1571- 
 1635. See post, under 13th July, 1654.] 
 
i5° 
 
 THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1649 
 
 my good friend, Mr. Eaton, afterwards 
 a judge, who corresponded with me in 
 France. 
 
 1 it 7i July. Came to see me old Alexander 
 Ross, 1 the divine, historian, and poet ; 
 Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other 
 friends, to lake leave of me. 
 
 \2ik. It was about three in the after- 
 noon, I took oars for Gravesend, ac- 
 companied by my cousin Stephens, and 
 sister Glanville, 2 who there supped with 
 me and returned ; whence I took post 
 immediately to Dover, where I arrived by 
 nine in the morning ; and, about eleven 
 that night, went on board a barque guarded 
 by a pinnace of eight guns ; this being 
 the first time the packet-boat had obtained 
 a convoy, having several times before been 
 pillaged. We had a good passage, though 
 chased for some hours by a pirate, but he 
 durst not attack our frigate, and we then 
 chased him till he got under the protection 
 of the Castle at Calais. It was a small 
 privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. 
 I carried over with me my servant, Richard 
 Hoare, an incomparable writer of several 
 hands, 3 whom I afterwards preferred in the 
 Prerogative Office, 4 at the return of his 
 Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter 
 of the Earl of Norwich, 5 followed us in a 
 
 1 Immortalised in Butler's couplet (Hudibras, 
 Part I. Canto ii. 11. 1-2) : 
 
 There was an ancient sage Philosopher, 
 That had read A lexander Ross over. 
 
 He was a Scotchman, born in 1501 ; and after 
 receiving an education for the church, took orders, 
 became master of a free school at Southampton, 
 and preached, wrote, and taught with a diligence 
 that ought to have obtained him other reputation 
 than Butler's ludicrous lines have bestowed upon 
 him. He died in 1654. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 145-! 
 
 3 [See post, under 17th May, 1653.] 
 
 ■* [" Where specimens of his writing in the entry of 
 wills about this date may.now be seen," says Bray. 
 But a better example must be the i2mo Officium 
 Sanctce et Individuce Trinitatis, composed and 
 collected by Evelyn for his annual and quotidian 
 use, with Calendars, Tables, etc. This is beauti- 
 fully written by Hoare, and is signed by him. It 
 is bound in old crimson morocco, with Evelyn's 
 crest and monogram, and dated 1650. It was 
 presented by him to Mrs. Godolphin ; and sold by 
 Puttick and Simpson, 7th March, 1873, for 
 ^36:ios., when it went back to Wotton House, 
 where it now is.] 
 
 5 His youngest daughter ; married to Mr. James 
 Scott, of Scott's Hall, Kent, supposed to have 
 been a son of Prince Rupert. 
 
 shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who 
 left England incognito. At the entrance of 
 the town, the Lieutenant-Governor, being 
 on his horse with the guards, let us pass 
 courteously. I visited Sir Richard Lloyd, 
 an English gentleman, and walked in the 
 church, where the ornament about the 
 high altar of black marble is very fine, and 
 there is a good picture of the Assumption. 
 The citadel seems to be impregnable, and 
 the whole country about it to be laid under 
 water by sluices for many miles. 
 
 16th. We departed for Paris, in com- 
 pany with that very pleasant lady (Lady 
 Catherine Scott) and others. In all this 
 journey we were greatly apprehensive of 
 parties, which caused us to alight often 
 out of our coach and walk separately on 
 foot, with our guns on our shoulders, in 
 all suspected places. 
 
 1st August. At three in the afternoon 
 we came to St. Denis, saw the rarities of 
 the church and treasury ; and so to Paris 
 that evening. 
 
 The next day, came to welcome me at 
 dinner the Lord High Treasurer Cotting- 
 ton, 1 Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor, 2 Sir 
 Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, 3 Sir 
 George Carteret, Governor of Jersey, 4 and 
 Dr. Earle, 5 having now been absent from 
 my wife above a year and a half. 
 
 i8tk. I went to St. Germain, to kiss 
 his Majesty's hand ; in the coach, which 
 
 1 [Francis, Baron Cottington, 1578-1652, ambas- 
 sador to Spain to obtain help for Prince Charles.] 
 
 2 [Afterwards first Earl of Clarendon (1609-74). 
 He accompanied Cottington to Spain.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 43.] 
 
 4 Sir George was son and heir to Helier de 
 Carteret, Deputy-governor of Jersey, and grand- 
 son of Sir Philip de Carteret, who in the reign of 
 Elizabeth planted a colony in the island (in which 
 his ancestors, from the time of Edward I., had 
 held lands), to secure it from the French, who had 
 frequently sought to obtain possession of it. The 
 son of the Deputy-governor entered the navy at an 
 early age : greatly distinguished himself in the 
 service ; and attracting the attention of the Duke 
 of Buckingham, received the appointment from 
 Charles I., of Joint-governor of Jersey, and Comp- 
 troller of the Navy. Haying served the King 
 during the civil wars, at the Restoration he was 
 returned to Parliament for Portsmouth, and filled 
 the office of Treasurer of the Navy. He died in 
 January, 1680. Several members of his family dis- 
 tinguished themselves in the wars of the seventeenth 
 century, and one of his descendants became a 
 celebrated statesman under the first and second 
 Georges. 
 
 5 [See ante,, p. 145.] 
 
1649] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 151 
 
 was my Lord Wilmot's, 1 went Mrs. Barlow, 
 the King's mistress 2 and mother to the 
 Duke of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, 
 bold, but insipid creature. 
 
 19M August. I went to salute the French 
 King and the Queen Dowager ; and, on the 
 2 1st, returned in one of the Queen's coaches 
 with my Lord Germain Qermyn], Duke of 
 Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, 3 and Mr. 
 Crofts, since Lord Crofts. 
 
 *jth September. Went with my wife and 
 dear cousin to St. Germain, and kissed the 
 Queen- Mother's hand ; dined with my Lord 
 Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of the 
 great men of France came to see the King. 
 The next day came the Prince of Cond?. 
 Returning to Paris, we went to see the 
 President Maison's palace, built castle- 
 wise, of a milk-white fine freestone ; the 
 house not vast, but well contrived, especi- 
 ally the staircase, and the ornaments of 
 putti* about it. It is environed in a dry 
 moat, the offices under-ground, the gardens 
 very excellent with extraordinary long 
 walks, set with elms, and a noble prospect 
 towards the forest, and on the Seine 
 towards Paris. Take it altogether, the 
 meadows, walks, river, forest, corn-ground, 
 and vineyards, I hardly saw anything in 
 Italy exceed it. The iron gates are very 
 magnificent. He has pulled down a whole 
 village to make room for his pleasure 
 about it. 
 
 1 Henry, third son of Charles Viscount Wilmot, 
 of Athlone, raised to the English Peerage by 
 Charles I., in June 29, 1643, as Baron Wilmot, of 
 Adderbury. He held a command in the King's 
 cavalry, in which he served with distinction at the 
 battle of Roundway Doune ; subsequently assisting 
 Charles II. to escape from the field of Worcester ; 
 though, according to the King's statement to Pepys, 
 it was rather in the way of hiding from, than in 
 combating with his enemies. Nevertheless he was 
 created Earl of Rochester, December 13, 1652, at 
 Paris, where Charles for a short time assumed the 
 privilege of sovereignty. He died at Sluys in 1658, 
 and was succeeded by his only surviving son, after- 
 wards the notorious Rochester. 
 
 2 The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter 
 of Richard Walter, Esq., of Haverfordwest. (See 
 Evelyn's later mention of her, under 15th July, 
 1685.) She had two children by the King ; James, 
 subsequently so celebrated as the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, and Mary, whose lot was obscure in com- 
 parison with that of her brother, but of course 
 infinitely happier. She married a Mr. William 
 Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William 
 Fanshawe, Esq. 
 
 3 [Son of the Earl cf Cleveland.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 147.] 
 
 12th. Dr. Creighton, a Scotchman, and 
 one of his Majesty's chaplains, a learned 
 Grecian who set out the Council of 
 Florence, preached. 1 
 
 13th. The King invited the Prince of 
 Conde to supper at St. Cloud ; there I 
 kissed the Duke of York's hand in the 
 tennis-court, where I saw a famous match 
 betwixt Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel 
 Cooke, and so returned to Paris. It was 
 noised about that I was knighted, a dignity 
 I often declined. 
 
 1st October. Went with my cousin Tuke 
 (afterwards Sir Samuel), 2 to see the foun- 
 tains of St. Cloud and Rueil ; and, after 
 dinner, to talk with the poor ignorant and 
 superstitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, 
 and so to Paris. 
 
 2nd. Came Mr. William Coventry (after- 
 wards Sir William) s and the Duke's secre- 
 tary, etc. , to visit me. 
 
 $th. Dined with Sir George Ratcliffe, 
 the great favourite of the late Earl of 
 Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ire- 
 land, decapitated. 
 
 7th. To the Louvre, to visit the 
 Countess of Morton, Governess to Madame. 
 
 15M. Came news of Drogheda being 
 taken by the rebels, and all put to the 
 sword, which made us very sad, fore- 
 running the loss of all Ireland. 
 
 21st. I went to hear Dr. D'Avinson's 
 lecture in the physical garden, and see his 
 laboratory, he being Prefect of that excel- 
 lent garden, and Professor Botanicus. 
 
 30M. I was at the funeral of one Mr. 
 Downes, a sober English gentleman. We 
 accompanied his corpse to Charenton, 
 
 1 [Dr. Robert Creighton, 1593-1672, afterwards 
 Bishop of Bath and Wells. He had been Chaplain 
 to Charles I.] 
 
 2 [Colonel Samuel Tuke, of Cressing Temple, 
 Essex, d. 1674, royalist and playwright, author of 
 the tragi-comedy The Adventures of Five Hours, 
 1663, with which Pepys was highly delighted. It 
 was based upon Calderon. Tuke was made a 
 baronet in 1664.] 
 
 3 William Coventry, 1628 ?-86, was knighted in 
 1665. He was a member of the Privy Council of 
 Charles II., and Commissioner of the Navy, but 
 dismissed the Court for sending a challenge to the 
 Duke of Buckingham. He was, says Burnet, "a 
 man of great notions and eminent vertues, the best 
 Speaker in the House of Commons, and capable of 
 bearing the chief ministry, as it was once thought 
 he was very near it " (History 0/ His Own Time, 
 1724, i. 170). Evelyn, in a subsequent mention 
 in his journal, characterises him as "a wise and 
 witty gentleman." (See under nth October, 1659.) 
 
152 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1650 
 
 where he was interred in a cabbage-garden, 
 yet with the office of our church, which 
 was said before in our chapel at Paris. 
 Here I saw also where they buried the 
 great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb 
 built over him like a fountain, the design 
 and materials mean enough. I returned 
 to Paris with Sir Philip Musgrave, and Sir 
 Marmaduke Langdale, since Lord Lang- 
 dale. — Memorandum, This was a very 
 sickly and mortal autumn. 
 
 ^th November. I received divers letters 
 out of England, requiring me to come over 
 about settling some of my concerns. 
 
 7M. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop 
 of Winchester) preached in our chapel on 
 Matthew 4, verse 3. 1 
 
 \%th. I went with my father-in-law to 
 see his audience at the French Court, where 
 next the Pope's Nuncio, he was introduced 
 by the master of ceremonies, and, after 
 delivery of his credentials, as from our 
 King, since his Father's murder, he was 
 most graciously received by the King of 
 France and his mother, with whom he had 
 a long audience. This was in the Palais 
 Cardinal. 2 
 
 After this, being presented to his Majesty 
 and the Queen Regent, I went to see the 
 house built by the late great Cardinal de 
 Richelieu. The most observable thing is 
 the gallery, painted with the portraits of the 
 most illustrious persons and signal actions 
 in France, with innumerable emblems be- 
 twixt every table. In the middle of the 
 gallery, is a neat chapel, rarely paved in 
 work and devices of several sorts of marble, 
 besides the altar-piece and two statues of 
 white marble, one of St. John, the other of the 
 Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the 
 apartments are rarely gilded and carved, 
 with some good modern paintings. In the 
 presence hang three huge branches of crystal. 
 In the French King's bedchamber, is an 
 alcove like another chamber, set as it were 
 in a chamber like a movable box, with a 
 rich embroidered bed. The fabric of the 
 palace is not magnificent, being but of two 
 stories ; but the garden is so spacious as 
 to contain a noble basin and fountain con- 
 
 1 [Dr. George Morley, 1597-1684. He had been 
 ejected in 1648 ; but performed service for the 
 royalists wherever he stayed while abroad. He 
 had been at Oxford with Clarendon, Waller, and 
 John Hampden.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 41.] 
 
 tinually playing, and there is a mall, vith 
 an elbow, or turning, to protract it. So I 
 left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in 
 seeing a bull-baiting, and returned home 
 in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paul, 
 the Prince Elector's agent. 
 
 igt/t. Visited Mr. Waller, where meet- 
 ing Dr. Holden, an English Sorbonne divine, 
 we fell into some discourse about religion. 
 
 28th December. Going to wait on Mr. 
 Waller, I viewed St. Stephen's church : 
 the building, though Gothic, is full of 
 carving ; within it is beautiful, especially 
 the choir and winding stairs. The glass is 
 well painted, and the tapestry hung up this 
 day about the choir, representing the con- 
 version of Constantine, was exceeding rich. 
 
 I went to that excellent engraver, Du 
 Bosse, 1 for his instruction about some diffi- 
 culties in perspective which were delivered 
 in his book. 
 
 I concluded this year in health, for which 
 I gave solemn thanks to Almighty God. 2 
 
 2cy/z. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's 
 child with Sir George Radcliffe in our 
 chapel, the parents being so poor that they 
 had provided no gossips, so as several of 
 us drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of 
 Peterborough 3 (Dr. Cosin) officiating: we 
 named it Andrew, being on the eve of that 
 Apostle's day. 
 
 1649-50 : 1st January. I began this 
 Jubilee with the public office in our chapel : 
 dined at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir 
 Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper. 
 
 \8th. This night were the Prince of 
 Conde and his brother carried prisoners to 
 the Bois de Vincennes. 4 
 
 6ik February. In the evening, came 
 Signor Alessandro, one of the Cardinal 
 Mazarin's musicians, and a person of great 
 name for his knowledge in that art, to visit 
 my wife, and sung before divers persons of 
 quality in my chamber. 
 
 1 [Abraham Bosse, 1602-76. His Traicte" des 
 Maniercs de Graver en Taille Douce sur I A ir[a\in, 
 etc., an authoritative manual, appeared in 1645. 
 Bosse was then living at the Rose rouge, lie du 
 Palais, devant le Megisserie, where Evelyn may 
 have visited him. Evelyn acknowledges his obliga- 
 tions to " Monsieur Bosse " in ch. iv. of Sculptural 
 
 2 This — says Bray — Evelyn does not fail to re- 
 peat at the end of every year, but it will not always 
 be necessary here to insert it. 
 
 3 [See post, p. 154.] 
 
 4 [This was a result of the intrigues of Mazarin. 
 Conde was kept in prison for about a year.] 
 
1650] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 153 
 
 1st March, I went to see the mas- 
 querados, which was very fantastic ; but 
 nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it 
 at Venice. 
 
 13th. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del 
 Camp's Academy, where divers of the 
 French and English noblesse, especially my 
 Lord of Ossory, and Richard, sons to the 
 Marquis of Ormonde (afterwards Duke), 1 
 did their exercises on horseback in noble 
 equipage, before a world of spectators and 
 great persons, men and ladies. It ended 
 in a collation. 
 
 25/A April. I went out of town to see 
 Madrid, 2 a palace so called, built by 
 Francis the First. It is observable only 
 for its open manner of architecture, being 
 much of terraces and galleries one over 
 another to the very roof; and for the 
 materials, which are most of earth painted 
 like porcelain, or China-ware, whose colours 
 appear very fresh ; but is very fragile. 
 There are whole statues and rilievos of 
 this pottery, chimney-pieces, and columns 
 both within and without. Under the 
 chapel is a chimney in the midst of a room 
 parted from the Salle des Gardes. The 
 
 1 James Butler, t 610-88, Marquis of Ormonde, 
 and Earl of Ossory in the Irish Peerage. In the 
 Civil Wars he exerted himself zealously in the cause 
 of his master, till obliged to seek safety with his 
 family in exile. He returned at the Restoration, 
 and Charles II., on the 20th of July, 1660, raised 
 him to the English Peerage by the titles of Baron 
 Butler and Earl of Brecknock, and advanced him 
 in the Irish Peerage to the Dukedom of Ormonde, 
 and again appointed him to the Lord -Lieutenancy 
 of Ireland. Of the sons mentioned by Evelyn, the 
 first was the Duke's second son, Thomas, Earl of 
 Ossory, 1634-80, who proved himself an efficient 
 commander both by sea and land, an able statesman, 
 and an accomplished man of letteis. According to 
 Anthony Wood, his heroism in the sea-fight with 
 the Dutch, in 1673, "was beyond the fiction of 
 romance"; and Evelyn's correspondence contains 
 earnest tributes to his character. In 1665, he was 
 summoned to Parliament as Lord Butler, of Moore 
 Park ; and was afterwards employed as General of 
 the Horse, as member of the Privy Council, and as 
 deputy for his father in his Irish government. 
 Richard, the younger brother of Thomas, d. 1685, 
 also referred to by Evelyn, was created an Irish 
 Peer in 1662, by the titles of Baron Butler, Viscount 
 Tullogh, and Earl of Arran ; and became an English 
 Peer in 1673, by the title of Baron Butler of 
 Weston. He too »was deputy for his father, and 
 distinguished himself both by sea and land, 
 particularly in the naval engagement with the 
 Dutch, in 1673, and against the mutinous garrison 
 of Carrickfergus. Evelyn highly esteemed this 
 family, and makes frequent allusion to them. 
 
 2 See ante, p. 35. 
 
 house is fortified with a deep ditch, and 
 has an admirable vista towards the Bois de 
 Boulogne and river. 
 
 2,0th. I went to see the collection of the 
 famous sculptor, 1 Stefano Delia Bella, 
 returning now into Italy, and bought some 
 prints : and likewise visited Perclle, 2 the 
 landscape graver. 
 
 yd May. At the hospital of La Charite, 
 I saw the operation of cutting for the stone. 
 A child of eight or nine years old under- 
 went the operation with most extraordinary 
 patience, and expressing great joy when he 
 saw the stone was drawn. The use I made 
 of it was, to give Almighty God hearty 
 thanks that I had not been subject to this 
 deplorable infirmity. 
 
 Jth. I went with Sir Richard Browne's 
 lady and my wife, together with the 
 Earl of Chesterfield, 3 Lord Ossory and 
 his brother, to Vambre, a place near the 
 city famous for butter : when, coming 
 homewards, being on foot, a quarrel arose 
 between Lord Ossory and a man in a 
 garden, who thrust Lord Ossory from the 
 gate with uncivil language ; on which our 
 young gallants struck the fellow on the 
 pate, and bade him ask pardon, which he 
 did with much submission, and so we 
 parted. But we were not gone far before 
 we heard a noise behind us, and saw 
 people coming with guns, swords, staves, 
 and forks, and who followed, flinging 
 stones ; on which, we turned, and were 
 forced to engage, and with our swords, 
 stones, and the help of our servants (one of 
 whom had a pistol) made our retreat for 
 near a quarter of a mile, when we took 
 shelter in a house, where we were besieged, 
 and at length forced to submit to be 
 prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, 
 were taken prisoners in the flight, and his 
 
 1 [I.e. engraver. Stefano Delia Bella, 1610-64, 
 was a Florentine. Richelieu had employed him to 
 make and engrave drawings of the siege of Arras by 
 the royal army. In ch. iv. of Scutytura, Evelyn 
 refers gratefully to " his civilities abroad."] 
 
 2 [Gabriel Perelle, 1610-75, the " Hollar of 
 France."] 
 
 3 Sir Philip Stanhope, 1584-1656, created 7th 
 November, 1616, Baron Stanhope of Shelford ; and 
 on the 4th August, 1628, Earl of Chesterfield. At 
 the breaking out of hostilities with the Parliament, 
 his lordship became a determined partisan for the 
 King, and garrisoned his house at Shelford, where 
 his son Philip lost his life, and the place was stormed 
 and burned to the ground. Lord Chesterfield at 
 last found safety in flight, and retired to France. 
 
J 54 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1650 
 
 lordship was confined under three locks 
 and as many doors in this rude fellow's 
 master's house, who pretended to be 
 Steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one of 
 the Presidents of the Grande Chambre du 
 Parlement, and a Canon of Notre Dame. 
 Several of us were much hurt. One of our 
 lackeys escaping to Paris, caused the 
 bailiff of St. Germain to come with his 
 guard and rescue us. Immediately after- 
 wards, came Monsieur St. Germain himself, 
 in great wrath, on hearing that his house- 
 keeper was assaulted ; but when he saw 
 the King's officers, the gentlemen and 
 noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident, and 
 understood the occasion, he was ashamed 
 of the accident, requesting the fellow's 
 pardon, and desiring the ladies to accept 
 their submission and a supper at his house. 
 It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to 
 Paris, guarded by Prince Griffith (a Welsh 
 hero going under that name, and well 
 known in England for his extravagancies), 
 together with the scholars of two academies, 
 who came forth to assist and meet us on 
 horseback, and would fain have alarmed 
 the town we received the affront from : 
 which, with much ado, we prevented. 
 
 \2th May. Complaint being come to the 
 Queen and Court of France of the affront 
 we had received, the President was ordered 
 to ask pardon of Sir R. Browne, his 
 Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make 
 submission, and be dismissed. There 
 came along with him the President de 
 Thou, son of the great Thuanus [the 
 historian], and so all was composed. But 
 I have often heard that gallant gentleman, 
 my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that in 
 all the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on 
 land (in the most desperate of both which 
 he had often been) he believed he was 
 never in so much danger as when these 
 people rose against us. He used to call it 
 the bataille de Vambre, and remember it 
 with a great deal of mirth as an adventure, 
 en cavalier. 
 
 2^th. We were invited by the Noble 
 Academies to a running at the ring where 
 were many brave horses, gallants, and 
 ladies, my lord Stanhope : entertaining us 
 with a collation. 
 
 1 Charles, second Baron Stanhope, of Harrington. 
 He died in 1677. Henry, son of Philip, first Earl 
 of Chesterfield, and his son Philip (subsequently 
 
 12th Jtme. Being Trinity -Sunday, the 
 Dean of Peterborough 2 preached ; after 
 which, there was an ordination of two 
 divines, Durel 2 and Brevint 3 (the one was 
 afterwards Dean of Windsor, the other 
 of Durham, both very learned persons). 
 The Bishop of Galloway 4 officiated with 
 great gravity, after a pious and learned 
 exhortation declaring the weight and 
 dignity of their function, especially now in 
 a time of the poor Church of England's 
 affliction. He magnified the sublimity of 
 the calling, from the object, viz. the salva- 
 tion of men's souls, and the glory of God ; 
 producing many human instances of the 
 transitoriness and vanity of all other 
 dignities ; that of all the triumphs the 
 Roman conquerors made, none was com- 
 parable to that of our Blessed Saviour's, 
 when he led captivity captive, and gave 
 gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy 
 Spirit, by which his faithful and painful 
 ministers triumphed over Satan as oft as 
 they reduced a sinner from the error of his 
 ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. 
 They were presented by the Dean in their 
 surplices before the altar, the Bishop sitting 
 in a chair at one side ; and so were made 
 both Deacons and Priests at the same time, 
 in regard to the necessity of the times, there 
 being so few Bishops left in England, 
 and consequently danger of a failure of 
 both functions. Lastly, they proceeded 
 to the Communion. This was all per- 
 formed in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, at 
 Paris. 
 
 iy/i. I sate to the famous sculptor, 5 
 Nanteiiil, who was afterwards made a knight 
 by the French King for his art. He en- 
 graved my picture in copper. At a future 
 time, he presented me with my own picture, 6 
 
 second Earl), also in succession bore the title of 
 Lord Stanhope. 
 
 1 [Dr. John Cosin, 1594-1672, afterwards Bishop 
 of Durham, and reputed " one of the most popish of 
 Anglican divines." He had been deprived of his 
 benefices in 1640 by the Long Parliament, and had 
 come to France in 1643, ar >d w as at this date 
 Chaplain to the Anglican royalists at Paris.] 
 
 2 [John Durel, 1625-83. He had assisted in the 
 royalist defence of Jersey in 1647. He was not 
 made Dean of Windsor until 1677.] 
 
 3 [Daniel Brevint or Brevin, 1616-95. He 
 received a stall in Durham Cathedral in 1660, and 
 became Dean and Prebendary of Lincoln, 1682.] 
 
 4 [Thomas Sydserff, 1 581-1663, who was made 
 Bishop of Orkney at the Restoration.] 
 
 5 [I.e. engraver.] 
 
 6 Robert Nanteiiil, 1630-98. He both drew and 
 
1650] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 155 
 
 done all with his pen ; an extraordinary 
 curiosity. 
 
 list J une. I went to see the Samaritan, or 
 Pump, at the end of the Pont Neuf, 1 which, 
 though to appearance promising no great 
 matter, is, besides the machine, furnished 
 with innumerable rarities both of art and 
 nature ; especially the costly grotto, where 
 are the fairest corals, growing out of the 
 very rock, that I have seen ; also great 
 pieces of crystal, amethysts, gold in the 
 mine, and other metals and marcasites, 
 with two great conchas, which the owner 
 told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. 
 He showed us many landscapes and pros- 
 pects, very rarely painted in miniature, 
 some with the pen and crayon ; divers 
 antiquities and rilievos of Rome ; above 
 all, that of the inside of the Amphitheatre 
 of Titus, incomparably drawn by Monsieur 
 St. Clere 2 himself: two boys and three 
 skeletons, moulded by Fiamingo ; a book 
 of statues with the pen made for Henry IV., 
 rarely executed, and by which one may 
 discover many errors in the iaille-douce of 
 Perrier, 8 who has added divers conceits of 
 his own that are not in the originals. He 
 has likewise an infinite collection of taille- 
 douces, richly bound in morocco. He led 
 us into a stately chamber furnished to have 
 entertained a prince, with pictures of the 
 greatest masters, especially a Venus of 
 Pierino del Vaga ; the putti carved in the 
 chimney-piece by the Fleming ; the vases of 
 porcelain, and many designed by Raphael ; 
 some paintings of Poussin, and Fioravanti ; 4 
 antiques in brass; the looking-glass and 
 stands rarely carved. In a word, all was 
 great, choice, and magnificent, and not to 
 be passed by as I had often done, without 
 the least suspicion that there were such 
 rare things to be seen in that place. At a 
 future visit, he showed a new grotto and a 
 bathing -place, hewn through the battle- 
 engraved. His portrait of Evelyn — who speaks of 
 him in ch. iv. of Sculptura as "an ingenious 
 person and my particular friend" — is known to 
 connoisseurs as the "petit My lord." He also 
 executed portraits of Mrs. Evelyn and Sir R. Browne, 
 which are still at Wotton House. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 29.] 
 
 2 This was the name of the owner. 
 
 3 [Francis Perrier or Perier (" le Bourguignon "), 
 1590- 1650, a French painter and engraver, who, 
 C' l0 35, reproduced the principal statues and bas- 
 reliefs at Rome.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 109.] 
 
 ments of the arches of Pont Neuf, into a 
 wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that 
 the coaches and horses thundered over our 
 heads. 
 
 27^/2. I made my will, and taking leave 
 of my wife and other friends, took horse 
 for England, paying the messager eight 
 pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, 
 setting out with seventeen in company 
 well-armed, some Portuguese, Swiss, and 
 French, whereof six were captains and 
 officers. We came the first night to 
 Beaumont ; next day, to Beauvais, and 
 lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, 
 reached Abbeville ; next, dined at Montreuil, 
 and proceeding met a company on foot 
 (being now within the inroads of the parties 
 which dangerously infest this day's journey 
 from St. Omer and the frontiers), which 
 we drew very near to, ready and resolute 
 to charge through, and accordingly were 
 ordered and led by a captain of our train ; 
 but, as we were on the speed, they called 
 out, and proved to be Scotchmen, newly 
 raised and landed, and few among them 
 armed. This night we were well treated 
 at Boulogne. The next day we marched 
 in good order, the passage being now ex- 
 ceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a 
 little after two. The sun so scorched my 
 face, that it made the skin peel off. 
 
 I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's 
 agent ; and, about three in the afternoon, 
 embarked in the packet-boat ; hearing there 
 was a pirate then also setting sail, we had 
 security from molestation, and so with a 
 fair S.W. wind in seven hours we landed 
 at Dover. The busy watchman would 
 have us to the Mayor to be searched, but 
 the gentleman being in bed, we were 
 dismissed. 
 
 Next day being Sunday, they would not 
 permit us to ride post, so that afternoon 
 our trunks were visited. 
 
 The next morning, by four, we set out 
 for Canterbury, where I met with my Lady 
 Catherine Scott, 1 whom that very day 
 twelve months before I met at sea going 
 for France ; she had been visiting Sir 
 Thomas Peyton, not far off, and would 
 needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. 
 We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to 
 Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave 
 of my lady about four the next morning." 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
1 56 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1650 
 
 ^th July. I supped in the city with my 
 Lady Catherine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', 1 
 where was a gentlewoman called Everard, 
 who was a very great chemist. 
 
 Sunday yt/i. In the afternoon, having a 
 mind to see what was doing among the 
 rebels, then in full possession at Whitehall, 
 I went thither, and found one at exercise in 
 the chapel, after their way ; thence to St. 
 James's, where another was preaching in 
 the court abroad. 
 
 17/7*. I went to London to obtain a 
 pass, 2 intending but a short stay in England. 
 
 25//Z. I went by Epsom to Wotton, 
 saluting Sir Robert Cook and my sister 
 Glanville ; the country was now much 
 molested by soldiers, who took away 
 gentlemen's horses for the service of the 
 State, as then called. 
 
 4M August. I heard a sermon at the 
 Rolls ; and in the afternoon wandered to 
 divers churches, the pulpits full of novices 
 and novelties. 3 
 
 6th. To Mr. Walker's, 4 a good painter, 
 who showed me an excellent copy of 
 Titian. 
 
 \2th. Set out for Paris, taking post at 
 Gravesend, and so that night to Canterbury, 
 where being surprised by the soldiers, and 
 having only an antiquated pass, with some 
 fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, 
 though not without extraordinary hazard, 
 having before counterfeited one with success, 
 it being so difficult to procure one of the 
 rebels without entering into oaths, which I 
 never would do. At Dover, money to the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
 2 See also ante, p. 149. A copy of it is subjoined : 
 " These are to will and require you to permitt and 
 suffer the bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq re , to 
 transport himselfe, two servants, and other neces- 
 saryes, unto any port of France, without any your 
 letts or molestations, of which you are not to fayle, 
 and for which this shall be your sufficient warrant. 
 Given at the Councell of State at Whitehall this 
 25th of June, 1650. 
 
 " Signed in the Name and by Order of the Councelle 
 of State, appoynted by authority of Parliament, 
 
 Jo. Bradshawe, P'sid't. 
 
 "To all Custom", Comptrolc™, an d Searchers, 
 and all other Officers of ye Ports or Customes." 
 
 Under the signature Evelyn has added in his own 
 writing : "The hand of that villain who sentenced 
 our Charles I. of B[lessed] M[emory]." Its endorse- 
 nient, also in his writing, is, " The Passe from the 
 Counsell of State 1650." 
 
 3 [See/ost, under 14th March, 1652.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 146. 1 
 
 searchers and officers was as authentic as 
 the hand and seal of Bradshaw himself, 
 where I had not so much as my trunk 
 opened. 
 
 13th. At six in the evening, set sail for 
 Calais ; the wind not favourable, I was 
 very sea-sick, coming to an anchor about 
 one o'clock ; about five in the morning, 
 we had a long boat to carry us to land, 
 though at a good distance ; this we willingly 
 entered, because two vessels were chasing 
 us ; but, being now almost at the harbour's 
 mouth, through inadvertency there brake 
 in upon us two such heavy seas as had 
 almost sunk the boat, I being near the 
 middle up in water. Our steersman, it 
 seems, apprehensive of the danger, was 
 preparing to leap into the sea and trust to 
 swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, 
 he put her into the pier, and so, God be 
 thanked ! we got to Calais, though wet. 
 
 Here I waited for company, the passage 
 towards Paris being still infested with 
 volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. 1 
 
 i6tk. The Regiment of Picardy, consist- 
 ing of about 1400 horse and foot (amongst 
 them was a captain whom I knew), 
 being come to town, I took horses for 
 myself and servant, and marched under 
 their protection to Boulogne. It was a 
 miserable spectacle to see how these tat- 
 tered soldiers pillaged the poor people of 
 their sheep, poultry, corn, cattle, and 
 whatever came in their way ; but they had 
 such ill pay, that they were ready them- 
 selves to starve. 
 
 As we passed St. Denis, the people 
 were in uproar, the guards doubled, and 
 everybody running with their movables 
 to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was 
 within five leagues of them ; so miserably 
 exposed was even this part of France at 
 this time. 
 
 The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence 
 of two months only. 
 
 1st September. My Lady Herbert 2 invited 
 me to dinner ; Paris, and indeed all France, 
 being full of loyal fugitives. 
 
 Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a 
 child of his which the Popish midwife had 
 baptized. 
 
 15th October. Sir Thomas Osborne (after- 
 wards Lord Treasurer) 3 and Lord Stanhope 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 27.] 2 [See ante, p. 152.] 
 
 3 Sir Thomas Osborne, 1631-1712, only son of Sir 
 
i6si] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 157 
 
 shot for a wager of five louis, to be spent 
 on a treat ; they shot so exact, that it was 
 a drawn match. 
 
 1st November. Took leave of my Lord 
 Stanhope, 1 going on his journey towards 
 Italy ; also visited my Lord Hatton, Comp- 
 troller of his Majesty's Household, the 
 Countess of Morton, Governess to the 
 Lady Henrietta, 2 and Mrs. Gardner, one 
 of the Queen's Maids of Honour. 
 
 6t/i. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with 
 us, his groom was set upon in the street 
 before our house, and received two wounds, 
 but gave the assassin nine, who was carried 
 off to the Charite Hospital. Sir Thomas 
 went for England on the 8th, and carried 
 divers letters for me to my friends. 
 
 16th. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the 
 French King's Secretary, to a concert of 
 French music and voices, consisting of 
 twenty-four, two theorbos, and but one 
 bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to 
 be sung at vespers at St. Cecilia's, on her 
 feast, she being patroness of musicians. 
 News arrived of the death of the Prince of 
 Orange of the small-pox. 3 
 
 14th December. I went to visit Mr. Rat- 
 cliffe, in whose lodging was an impostor 
 that had liked to have imposed upon us a 
 pretended secret of multiplying gold ; it is 
 certain he had lived some time in Paris in 
 extraordinary splendour, but I found him 
 to be an egregious cheat. 
 
 22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to 
 visit me. 
 
 31J/. I gave God thanks for his mercy 
 and protection the past year, and made up 
 my accounts, which came this year to 7015 
 livres, nearly ;£6oo sterling. 
 
 Edward Osborne, 1596-1647, Vice-President of the 
 Council for the North of England, and Lieutenant- 
 General of the Northern Forces. Sir Edward had 
 devoted himself to the cause of Charles I., and his 
 son followed his example. He shared the same 
 fortune as other exiles during the Protectorate, 
 but at the Restoration was amply rewarded, digni- 
 ties and titles being showered upon him with exces- 
 sive liberality. Lord High Treasurer, and Knight 
 of the Garter, he was successively created Baron 
 Osborne, of Kiveton, and Viscount Latimer, of 
 Danby ; Earl of Danby, Marquis of Carmarthen, 
 and Duke of Leeds, in the English Peerage ; and 
 Viscount Dunblane, in the Peerage of Scotland. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 154]. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 47. The Princess Henrietta, 
 1644-70, daughter of Charles L, afterwards married, 
 31st March, 1661, to Philip, Duke of Orleans, 
 brother of Louis XIV.] 
 
 3 [William II., d. 6th November, 1650.] 
 
 1650- 1 : 1st January. I wrote to my 
 brother at Wotton, about his garden and 
 fountains. After evening prayer, Mr. 
 Wainsford called on me : he had long 
 been Consul at Aleppo, and told me many 
 strange things of those countries, the Arabs 
 especially. 
 
 27M. I had letters of the death of Mrs. 
 Newton, my grandmother-in-law ; l she had 
 a most tender care of me during my child- 
 hood, and was a woman of extraordinary 
 charity and piety. 
 
 29M. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt, 
 v. 34, showing the mischief of covetous- 
 ness. My Lord Marquis of Ormonde, 2 
 and Inchiquin, 3 come newly out of Ireland, 
 were this day at chapel. 
 
 gt/i Febiiiary. Cardinal Mazarin was 
 proscribed by Arret du Parlement, and 
 great commotions began in Paris. 
 
 23^. I went to see the Bons Hommes, 
 a convent that has a fair cloister painted 
 with the lives of Hermits ; a glorious altar 
 now erecting in the chapel ; the garden on 
 the rock with divers descents, with a fine 
 vineyard and a delicate prospect towards 
 the city. 
 
 24//*. I went to see a dromedary, a very 
 monstrous beast, much like the camel, but 
 larger. There was also dancing on the 
 rope ; but, above all, surprising to those 
 who were ignorant of the address, 4 was 
 the water - spouter, 5 who, drinking only 
 fountain-water, rendered out of his mouth 
 in several glasses all sorts of wine and 
 sweet waters. For a piece of money, he 
 discovered the secret to me. I waited on 
 Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, 
 who, being an excellent chemist, showed 
 me his laboratory, and rare collection of 
 spagyrical 6 remedies. He was both phy- 
 sician and apothecary of the convent, and, 
 instead of the names of his drugs, he 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 4.] 2 [See ante, p. 153.] 
 
 3 [Murrough O'Brien, first Earl of Inchiquin, 
 1614-74.] 
 
 4 ["Address" must here mean "method of pro- 
 cedure."] 
 
 5 [Florian Marchand. He is said to have come 
 from Tours to London in 1650. He had learned 
 his trick of an Italian, one Blaise de Manfre, from 
 whom Mazarin had extorted his secret. There is 
 a long (and rather nauseous) account of Marchand's 
 modus operandi in Wilson's Wonderful Charac- 
 ters ; and there is a 4to portrait of him by Richard- 
 son. There is also a rare portrait of Manfre' by 
 Hollar.] 
 
 6 [Of, or pertaining to chemistry (Bailey).] 
 
158 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1651 
 
 painted his boxes and pots with the figure 
 of the drug, or simple, contained in them. 
 He showed me as a rarity some $ of anti- 
 mony : 1 he had cured Monsieur Senatin 
 of a desperate sickness, for which there 
 was building a monumental altar that was 
 to cost .£1500. 
 
 II/A March. I went to the Chatelet, 2 
 or prison, where a malefactpr was to have 
 the question, or torture, given to him, he 
 refusing to confess the robbery with which 
 he was charged, which was thus : they 
 first bound his wrist with a strong rope, 
 or small cable, and one end of it to an iron 
 ring made fast to the wall, about four feet 
 from the floor, and then his feet with 
 another cable, fastened about five feet 
 farther than his utmost length to another 
 ring on the floor of the room. Thus sus- 
 pended, and yet lying but aslant, they slid 
 a horse 3 of wood under the rope which 
 bound his feet, which so exceedingly 
 stiffened it, as severed the fellow's joints 
 in miserable sort, drawing him out at 
 length in an extraordinary manner, he 
 having only a pair of linen drawers on his 
 naked body. Then, they questioned him 
 of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, 
 and a clerk that wrote), which not con- 
 fessing, they put a higher horse under the 
 rope, to increase the torture and extension. 
 In this agony, confessing nothing, the 
 executioner with a horn (just such as they 
 drench horses with) stuck the end of it 
 into his mouth, and poured the quantity of 
 two buckets of water down his throat and 
 over him, which so prodigiously swelled 
 him, as would have pitied and affrighted 
 any one to see it ; for all this, he denied 
 all that was charged to him. They then 
 let him down, and carried him before a 
 warm fire to bring him to himself, being 
 now to all appearance dead with pain. 
 Wlfat became of him, I know not ; but 
 the gentleman whom he robbed constantly 
 averred him to be the man, and the 
 fellow's suspicious pale looks, before he 
 knew he should be racked, betrayed some 
 guilt ; the Lieutenant was also of that 
 opinion, and told us at first sight (for he 
 
 1 A supposed preparation of this is alleged to 
 have been that which was afterwards perfected by 
 Dr. Robert James, 1705-76, whose name it still 
 bears. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 32.] 3 [A wedge or support.] 
 
 was a lean, dry, black young man) he 
 would conquer the torture ; and so it 
 seems they could not hang him, but did 
 use in such cases, where the evidence is 
 very presumptive, to send them to the 
 galleys, which is as bad as death. 
 
 There was another malefactor to suc- 
 ceed, but the spectacle was so uncomfort- 
 able, that I was not able to stay the sight 
 of another. It represented yet to me the 
 intolerable sufferings which our Blessed 
 Saviour must needs undergo, when his 
 body was hanging with all its weight upon 
 the nails on the cross. 
 
 2.0th. I went this night with my wife 
 to a ball at the Marquis de Crevecceur's, 
 where were divers Princes, Dukes, and 
 great persons ; but what appeared to me 
 very mean was, that it began with a 
 puppet-play. 
 
 6th May. I attended the Ambassador 
 to a masque at Court, where the French 
 King in person danced five entries ; but 
 being engaged in discourse, and better 
 entertained with one of the Queen- Regent's 
 Secretaries, I soon left the entertainment. 
 
 I ith. To the Palace Cardinal, where the 
 Master of the Ceremonies placed me to see 
 the royal masque, or opera. The first sc^jne 
 represented a chariot of singers composed 
 of the rarest voices that could be procured, 
 representing Cornaro 1 and Temperance ; 
 this was overthrown by Bacchus and his 
 revellers ; the rest consisted of several 
 entries and pageants of excess, by all the 
 elements. A masque representing fire was 
 admirable ; then came a Venus out of the 
 clouds. The conclusion was a heaven, 
 whither all ascended. But the glory of 
 the masque was the great persons per- 
 forming in it, the French King, his brother 
 the Duke of Anjou, with all the grandees 
 of the Court, the King performing to the 
 admiration of all. The music was twenty- 
 nine violins, vested d Vantique, but the 
 habits of the masquers were stupendously 
 rich and glorious. 
 
 23rd. I went to take leave of the 
 ambassadors for Spain, which were my 
 Lord Treasurer Co'ttington and Sir Edward 
 Hyde ; 2 and, as I returned, I visited Mr. 
 Morine's 3 garden, and his other rarities, 
 
 1 Lewis Cornaro, 1467-1566, the famous Venetian 
 writer on Temperance. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 150.] 3 See ante, p. 42. 
 
i6 5 i] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL 1 W 
 
 159 
 
 especially corals, minerals, stones, and 
 natural curiosities ; crabs of the Red Sea, 
 the body no bigger than a small bird's 
 egg, but flatter, and the two legs, or 
 claws, a foot in length. He had abund- 
 ance of shells, at least 1000 sorts, which 
 furnished a cabinet of great price ; and 
 had a very curious collection of scarabees, 
 and insects, of which he was compiling a 
 natural history. He had also the pictures 
 of his choice flowers and plants in minia- 
 ture. He told me there were 10,000 sorts 
 of tulips only. He had taille-douces out 
 of number ; the head of the Rhinoceros 
 bird, which was very extravagant, and one 
 butterfly resembling a perfect bird. 
 
 25M May. I went to visit Mr. Thomas 
 White, a learned priest and famous 
 philosopher, 1 author of the book De 
 Afwzdo, with whose worthy brother I 
 was well acquainted at Rome. I was 
 showed a cabinet of maroquin, or Turkey 
 leather, so curiously inlaid with other 
 leather, and gilding, that the workman 
 demanded for it 800 livres. 
 
 The Dean (of Peterborough) preached 
 on the feast of Pentecost, perstringing 
 those of Geneva for their irreverence of 
 theBfessed Virgin. 2 
 
 qthjune. Trinity- Sunday, I was absent 
 from church in the afternoon on a char- 
 itable affair for the Abbess of Boucharvant, 
 who but for me had been abused by that 
 chemist, Du Menie. 3 Returning, I stept 
 into the Grand Jesuits, who had this high 
 day exposed their ciborium [pyx], made 
 all of solid gold and imagery, a piece of 
 infinite cost. Dr. Croyden, coming out of 
 Italy and from Padua, came to see me, on 
 his return to England. 
 
 $t A. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, 4 
 and some other noble persons, to hear 
 Madam Lavaran sing, which she did both 
 in French and Italian excellently well, but 
 her voice was not strong. 
 
 1 A native of Essex, 1593-1676, educated abroad. 
 His family being Roman Catholic, he became a 
 priest of that church, and sub-rector of the college 
 at Douay. He advocated the Cartesian philosophy, 
 and this brought him into an extensive correspond- 
 ence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course of 
 which he Latinised his name into Thomas Albius. 
 
 2 [" Censuring " or " reproving," from the Latin 
 perst-ringo. ] 
 
 3 Perhaps the impostor of p. 157 ante. 
 
 4 This was William, d. 1695, the eldest son of 
 the Earl who was executed ; but he was not re- 
 stored to his father's titles till the 'Restoration. 
 
 *]th. Corpus Christi Day, there was a 
 grand procession, all the streets tapestried, 
 several altars erected there, full of images, 
 and other rich furniture, especially that 
 before the Court, of a rare design and 
 architecture. There were abundance of 
 excellent pictures and great vases of silver. 
 
 13M. I went to see the collection of one 
 Monsieur Poignant, which for variety of 
 agates, crystals, onyxes, porcelain, medals, 
 statues, rilievos, paintings, taille-douces y 
 and antiquities, might compare with the 
 Italian virtuosos. 
 
 2 1 st. I became acquainted with Sir 
 William Curtius, 1 a very learned and 
 judicious person of the Palatinate. He 
 had been scholar to Alstedius, 2 the Ency- 
 clopedist, was well advanced in years, and 
 now resident for his Majesty at Frankfort. 
 
 2tid July. Came to see me the Earl of 
 Strafford, Lord Ossory and his brother, 
 Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward Stawell, 
 two of my Lord Spencer's sons, and Dr. 
 Stewart, 3 Dean of St. Paul's, a learned 
 and pious man, where we entertained the 
 time upon several subjects, especially the 
 affairs of England, and the lamentable 
 condition of our Church. The Lord 
 Gerard 4 also called to see my collection 
 of sieges and battles. 
 
 21st. An extraordinary fast was cele- 
 brated in our Chapel, Dr. Stewart, Dean 
 of St. Paul's, preaching. 
 
 2nd August. I went with my wife to 
 Conflans, where were abundance of ladies 
 and others bathing in the river ; the ladies 
 had their tents spread on the water for 
 privacy. 
 
 29M. Was kept a solemn fast for the 
 calamities of our poor Church, now 
 trampled on by the rebels. Mr. Waller, 
 being at St. Germain, desired me to send 
 him a coach from Paris, to bring my wife's 
 god-daughter to Paris, 5 to be buried by trie 
 Common Prayer. 
 
 1 [Seepost, under 8th October, 1664.] 
 
 2 [John Henry Alsted, 1588-1688, German 
 philosopher and divine. Pepys, in October, 
 1660, bought his Encyclopedia, 7 vols., "which 
 cost me 38s."] 
 
 3 [Died in November of this year (see post , under 
 16th November, 1651).] 
 
 4 Charles Gerard, d. 1694, created Baron Gerard, 
 of Brandon, in 1645, for his services to Charles I. 
 By Charles II. he was raised to the dignity of 
 Viscount Brandon, and Earl of Macclesfield, in 
 1679. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 156.] 
 
i6o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1651 
 
 6th September. I went with my wife to 
 St. Germain, to condole with Mr. Waller's 
 loss. I carried with me and treated at 
 dinner that excellent and pious person the 
 Dean of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir 
 Lewis Dyve (half-brother to the Earl of 
 Bristol), 1 who entertained us with his 
 wonderful escape out of prison in White- 
 hall, the very evening before he was to 
 have been put to death, leaping down out 
 of a jakes two stories high into the Thames 
 at high water, in the coldest of winter, 
 and at night ; so as by swimming he got 
 to a boat that attended for him, though he 
 was guarded by six musketeers. After 
 this, he went about in woman's habit, and 
 then in a small-coalman's, travelling 200 
 miles on foot, embarked for Scotland with 
 some men he had raised, who coming on 
 shore were all surprised and imprisoned 
 on the Marquis of Montrose's score ; he 
 not knowing anything of their barbarous 
 murder of that hero. This he told us was 
 his fifth escape, and none less miraculous ; 
 with this note, that the charging through 
 1000 men armed, or whatever danger 
 could befall a man, he believed could not 
 more confound and distract a man's 
 thoughts than the execution of a pre- 
 meditated escape, the passions of hope 
 and fear being so strong. This knight 
 was indeed a valiant gentleman ; but not 
 a little given to romance, when he spake 
 of himself. I returned to Paris the same 
 
 evening. 
 
 ytk. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the 
 famous philosopher of Malmesbury, 2 with 
 
 1 [Sir Lewis Dyve, 1599-1669. His mother's 
 second husband was Sir John Digby, afterwards 
 Earl of Bristol. As a royalist Sir Lewis had a 
 chequered career. In August, 1645, he was taken 
 prisoner at the siege of Sherborne Castle by 
 Fairfax, and sent to the Tower, where he remained 
 for two years. From the Tower he was removed 
 to the King's Bench, whence he made his escape 
 15th January, 1648, and wrote a 4to account of 
 the manner of it. He was subsequently taken 
 prisoner at Preston, and escaped again 30th 
 January, 1649, as above narrated. He then 
 served in Ireland ; but of his later life little is 
 recorded. Carlyle speaks of him as " a thrasonical 
 person known to the readers of Evelyn " (Crom- 
 well's Letters and SpeecJies, Letter xxx.). See 
 z\sopost, under 3rd December, 1651.] 
 
 - [Thomas Hobbes, the philosopher, 1 588-1679. 
 He resided at Paris from 1641 to 1652 (see post, 
 under 14th December, 1655), having been, in his 
 own words, "the first of all that fled." His 
 Leviathan was printed at London in 1651, in the 
 
 whom I had long acquaintance. From his 
 window, we saw the whole equipage and 
 glorious cavalcade of the young French 
 Monarch, Louis XIV., passing to Parlia- 
 ment, when first he took the kingly govern- 
 ment on him, now being in his 14th year, 
 out of his minority and the Queen Regent's 
 pupillage. First, came the captain of the 
 King's Aids, at the head of 50 richly 
 liveried ; next, the Queen- Mother's light 
 horse, 100, the lieutenant being all over 
 covered with embroidery and ribbons, 
 having before him four trumpets habited 
 in black velvet, full of lace, and casques of* 
 the same. Then, the King's light horse, 
 200, richly habited, with four trumpets in 
 blue velvet embroidered with gold, before 
 whom rid the Count d'Olonne, coronet 
 [cornet], whose belt was set with pearl. 
 Next went the grand Prevot's company on 
 foot, with the Prevot on horseback ; after 
 them, the Swiss in black velvet toques, led 
 by two gallant cavaliers habited in scarlet- 
 coloured satin, after their country fashion, 
 which is very fantastic ; he had in his 
 cap a panache of heron, with a band of 
 diamonds, and about him twelve little 
 Swiss boys, with halberds. Then, came 
 the Aidedes Ceremonies ; next, the grandees 
 of court, governors of places, and lieuten- 
 ants-general of Provinces, magnificently 
 habited and mounted ; among whom I 
 must not forget the Chevalier Paul, 1 
 famous for many sea-fights and signal 
 exploits there, because it is said he had 
 never been an Academist, and yet governed 
 a very unruly horse, and besides his rich 
 suit his Malta Cross was esteemed at io,oco 
 crowns. These were headed by two 
 trumpets, and the whole troop, covered 
 with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were 
 followed by six trumpets in blue velvet also 
 preceding as many heralds in blue velvet 
 
 middle of which year it appeared {Hobbes, by Sir 
 Leslie Stephen, 1904, pp. 27, 40). See also post, 
 under 5th April, 1659.] 
 
 1 [The Chevalier Paul de Saumur, 1597-1667, a 
 French admiral, famous for his victories in the 
 Mediterranean over the Spaniard and the Turk. 
 He died Coimnandant Maritime of Toulon, where 
 he was visited by Louis XIV. It was of him that 
 Chapelle and Bachaumont wrote in their Voyage 
 en Provence : — • 
 
 C'est ce Paul dont V experience 
 Goitr/nande la mer et le vent ; 
 Dont le bonheur et la vaillance 
 Rendent formidable la France 
 A tons les peuples du Levant, etc.] 
 
i6 5 i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 161 
 
 semie with fleurs-de-lis, caduces in their 
 hands, and velvet caps on their heads ; 
 behind them, came one of the masters of 
 the ceremonies ; then, divers marshals and 
 n^any of the nobility, exceeding splendid ; 
 behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand 
 Ecuyer, alone, carrying the King's sword 
 in a scarf, which he held up in a blue 
 sheath studded with fleurs-de-lis ; his horse 
 had for reins two scarfs of black taffeta. 
 Then came abundance of footmen and 
 pages of the King, new-liveried with white 
 and red feathers ; next, the garde du corps 
 and other officers ; and, lastly, appeared 
 the King himself on an Isabella 1 barb, on 
 which a housing semie with crosses of the 
 Order of the Holy Ghost, and fleurs-de-lis; 
 the King himself like a young Apollo, was 
 in a suit so covered with rich embroidery, 
 that one could perceive nothing of the 
 stuff under it ; he went almost the whole 
 way with his hat in hand, saluting the 
 ladies and acclamators, who had filled the 
 windows with their beauty, and the air 
 with Vive le Roi. He seemed a prince of a 
 grave yet sweet countenance. After the 
 King, followed divers great persons of 
 the Court, exceeding splendid, also his 
 esquires ; masters of horse, on foot ; then 
 the company of Exempts des Gardes ', and 
 six guards of Scotch. Betwixt their files 
 were divers princes of the blood, dukes, 
 and lords ; after all these, the Queen's 
 guard of Swiss, pages, and footmen; then, 
 the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich coach, 
 with Monsieur, the King's brother, the 
 Duke of Orleans, and some other lords 
 and ladies of honour. About the coach, 
 marched her Exempts des Gardes', then, the 
 company of the King's Gens d? amies, well 
 mounted, 150, with four trumpets, and as 
 many of the Queen's ; lastly, an innumer- 
 able company of coaches full of ladies and 
 
 1 [I.e. between white and yellow in colour. 
 " Isabella, daughter of Philip II., and wife of the 
 Archduke Albert [see ante, p. 22], vowed not to 
 change her linen till Ostend was taken ; this siege, 
 unluckily for her comfort, lasted three years [1601-4]; 
 and the supposed colour of the archduchess's linen 
 gave rise to a fashionable colour, hence called 
 L'fsabeau, or the Isabella" (Disraeli's Curiosities 
 of Literature, 1824, i. 381). " Rien" adds Littre, 
 who repeats the story in his Dictionary ', " ne 
 garantit cette historiette." Curtains of " Isabella 
 and white sarsnet " are mentioned in the inventory 
 of Ham House (see post, 27th August, 1678) ; and 
 there is,a pale Himalayan bear, known from its hue 
 as the " Isabelline bear."] 
 
 gallants. In this equipage, passed the 
 monarch to the Parliament, henceforth 
 exercising his kingly government. 
 
 ytk September [?]. I accompanied Sir 
 Richard Browne, my father-in-law, to the 
 French Court, when he had a favourable 
 audience of the French King, and the 
 Queen, his mother ; congratulating the 
 one on his coming to the exercise of 
 his royal charge, and the other's prudent 
 and happy administration during her late 
 regency, desiring both to preserve the 
 same amity for his master, our King, as 
 they had hitherto done, which they both 
 promised, with many civil expressions and 
 words of course upon such occasions. We 
 were accompanied both going and returning 
 by the Introductor of Ambassadors and 
 Aid of Ceremonies. I also saw the 
 audience of Morosini, the Ambassador of 
 Venice, and divers other Ministers of 
 State from German Princes, Savoy, etc. 
 Afterwards, I took a walk in the King's 
 gardens, where I observed that the mall 
 goes the whole square there of next the 
 wall, and bends with an angle so made 
 as to glance the wall ; the angle is of 
 stone. There is a basin at the end of the 
 garden fed by a noble fountain and high 
 jetto. There were in it two or three 
 boats, in which the King now and then 
 rows about. In another part is a complete 
 fort, made with bastions, graft, half-moons, 
 ravelins, and furnished with great guns 
 cast on purpose to instruct the King in 
 fortification. 
 
 22nd. Arrived the news of the fatal 
 battle at Worcester, 1 which exceedingly 
 mortified our expectations. 
 
 2&th. I was showed a collection of 
 books and prints made for the Duke of 
 York. 
 
 1st October. The Dean of Peterborough 2 
 preached on Job xiii. verse 15, encouraging 
 our trust in God on all events and ex- 
 tremities, and for establishing and com- 
 forting some ladies of great quality, who 
 were then to be discharged from our 
 Queen-Mother's service, unless they would 
 go over to the Romish Mass. 
 
 The Dean, dining this day at our house, 
 told me the occasion of publishing those 
 Offices, which among the puritans were 
 wont to be called Cosines cozening Devo- 
 
 1 [3rd September.] 2 [See ante, p. 154.] 
 
 M 
 
l62 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1651 
 
 tions., by way of derision. 1 At the first 
 coming of the Queen into England, she 
 and her French ladies were often upbraid- 
 ing our religion, that had neither appointed 
 nor set forth any hours of prayer, or 
 breviaries, by which ladies and courtiers, 
 who have much spare time, might edify 
 and be in devotion, as they had. Our 
 Protestant ladies, scandalised it seems at 
 this, moved the matter to the King ; 
 whereupon his Majesty presently called 
 Bishop White to him, and asked his 
 thoughts of it, and whether there might 
 not be found some forms of prayer proper 
 on such occasions, collected out of some 
 already approved forms, that so the court- 
 ladies and others (who spend much time in 
 trifling) might at least appear as devout, 
 and be so too, as the new-come-over French 
 ladies, who took occasion to reproach our 
 want of zeal and religion. On which, 
 the Bishop told his Majesty that it might 
 be done easily, and was very necessary ; 
 whereupon the King commanded him to 
 employ some person of the clergy to com- 
 pile such a Work, and presently the Bishop 
 naming Dr. Cosin, the King enjoined him 
 to charge the Doctor in his name to set 
 about it immediately. This the Dean told 
 me he did ; and three months after, bring- 
 ing the book to the King, he commanded 
 the Bishop of London to read it over, and 
 make his report ; this was so well liked, 
 that (contrary to former custom of doing 
 it by a chaplain) he would needs give it an 
 imprimatur under his own hand. Upon 
 this, there were at first only 200 copies 
 printed ; nor, said he, was there anything 
 in the whole book of my own composure, 
 nor did I set any name as author to it, but 
 those necessary prefaces, etc., out of the 
 Fathers, touching the times and seasons of 
 prayer ; all the rest being entirely trans- 
 lated and collected out of an Office published 
 by authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, 
 and our own Liturgy. This I rather men- 
 tion to justify that industrious and pious 
 Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, 
 
 1 [The Collection of Private Devotions, 1627, 
 was compiled, as hereafter explained, by request of 
 Charles I. It was Prynne who, in his "brief 
 survey" of the book, gave them the above nick- 
 name. Dr. Cosin is frequently mentioned both in 
 the Diary and Letters of Evelyn, and had a very 
 good library, for the purchase of which Evelyn was 
 at one time m treaty (see^ost, under 1 5th April, 1652). ] 
 
 as if he had done it of his own head to 
 introduce Popery, from which no man was 
 more averse, and one who in this time of 
 temptation and apostasy, held and con- 
 firmed many to our Church. 1 
 
 29X& October. Came news and letters to 
 the Queen and Sir Richard Browne (who 
 was the first that had intelligence of it) of 
 his Majesty's miraculous escape after the 
 fight at Worcester ; which exceedingly 
 rejoiced us. 
 
 jtk November. I visited Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, 2 with whom I had much discourse 
 on chemical matters. I showed him a 
 particular way of extracting oil of sulphur, 
 and he gave me a certain powder with 
 which he affirmed that he had fixed $ 
 (mercury) before the late King. He ad- 
 vised me to try and digest a little better, 
 and gave me a water which he said was 
 only rain-water of the autumnal equinox, 
 exceedingly rectified, very volatile ; it had 
 a taste of a strong vitriolic, and smelt like 
 aqua-fortis. He intended it for a dis- 
 solvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is, 
 Sir Kenelm was an arrant mountebank.' 1 
 
 1 The Clergy who attended the English Court in 
 France at this time, and are mentioned to have 
 officiated in Sir Richard Browne's Chapel, were : 
 The Bishop of Galloway (p. 154); Dr. George 
 Morley (p. 152) ; Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, 
 afterwards Bishop of Durham (p. 154); Dr. Stewart 
 (p. 159) ; Dr. Earle (p. 145) ; Dr. Clare (see above); 
 Dr. Wolley, no great preacher (p. 164); Mr. 
 Crowder ; Dr. William Lloyd, Bishop of Llandaff; 
 Mr. Hamilton ; Dr. Duncan (p. 157). 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 19. He (Digby), says his bio- 
 grapher, was at this date, "nominally, if not actu- 
 ally, Chancellor to Queen Henrietta Maria."] 
 
 * [He seems, at any rate, to have been as much 
 "given to romance" as his kinsman, Sir Lewis 
 Dyve : witness the following from Lady Anne 
 Fanshawe's Memoirs, 1829, pp. 72-73: — "When 
 we came to Calais, we met the Earl of Strafford 
 and Sir Kenelm Digby, with some others of our 
 countrymen. We were all feasted at the Gover- 
 nor's of the castle, and much excellent discourse 
 passed ; but, as was reason, most share was Sir 
 Kenelm Digby 's, who had enlarged somewhat more 
 in extraordinary stories than might be averred, and 
 all of them passed with great applause and wonder 
 of the French then at table ; but the concluding 
 one was, that Barnacles, a bird in Jersey, was first 
 a shell-fish to appearance, and from that, sticking 
 upon old wood, became in time a bird. After some 
 consideration, they unanimously burst out into 
 laughter, believing it altogether false ; and, to say 
 the truth, it was the only thing true he had dis- 
 coursed with them ; that was his infirmity, though 
 otherwise a person of most excellent parts, and a 
 very fine -bred gentleman." (Unfortunately, the 
 barnacle story also is a " vulgar error.").] 
 
1651] 
 
 THE DIARV OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 163 
 
 Came news of the gallant Earl of Derby's 1 
 execution by the rebels. 
 
 l^th November. Dr. Clare preached on 
 Genesis xxviii. verses 20, 21 , 22, upon Jacob's 
 vow, which he appositely applied, it being 
 the first Sunday his Majesty came to 
 chapel after his escape. I went, in the 
 afternoon, to visit the Earl of Norwich ; 2 
 he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's. 3 
 
 \6tk. Visited Dean Stewart, 4 who had 
 been sick about two days ; when, going 
 up to his lodging I found him dead ; 
 which affected me much, as besides his 
 particular affection and love to me, he was 
 of incomparable parts and great learning, 
 of exemplary life, and a very great loss to 
 the whole church. He was buried the 
 next day with all our church's ceremonies, 
 many noble persons accompanying the 
 corpse. 
 
 ijt/i. I went to congratulate the marriage 
 of Mrs. Gardner, maid of honour, lately 
 married to that odd person, Sir Henry 
 Wood : but riches do many things. 
 
 To see Monsieur Lefevre's 5 course of 
 chemistry, where I found Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, and divers curious persons of 
 learning and quality. It was his first 
 opening the course and preliminaries, in 
 order to operations. 
 
 1st December. I now resolved to return 
 to England. 
 
 3rd. Sir Lewis Dyve 6 dined with us, 
 who relating some of his adventures, 
 showed me divers pieces of broad gold, 
 which, being in his pocket in a fight, pre- 
 served his life by receiving a musket-bullet 
 on them, which deadened its violence, so 
 that it went no farther ; but made such a 
 stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions 
 upon one another, battering and bending 
 
 1 [James Stanley, seventh Earl of Derby, 1607-51, 
 was taken prisoner after the battle of Worcester, 
 and beheaded at Bolton, 15th October, dying, says 
 Whitelocke, "with stoutness and Christian -like 
 temper."] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 12.] 
 
 3 [Brother to the Duke of Lennox, and afterwards 
 Lord Almoner to Catherine of Braganza (see also 
 post, nth January, 1662, and 9th June, 1664).] 
 
 ■* [See ante> p. 159.] 5 [See ante, p. 144.] 
 
 * [See ante, p. 160. There are some very in- 
 teresting Biographical Memoirs 0/ Sir Lewis 
 Dyve, by John Gough Nichols, in the Gentleman's 
 Magazine for July-October, 1829. In one or two 
 minute details, they correct Evelyn. There are 
 also three letters to Dyve in the Epistolce Ho- 
 £ liana.] 
 
 several of them ; the bullet itself was 
 flatted, and retained on it the colour of the 
 gold. He assured us that of a hundred of 
 them, which it seems he then had in his 
 pocket, not one escaped without some 
 blemish. He affirmed that his being pro- 
 tected by a Neapolitan Prince, who con- 
 nived at his bringing some horses into 
 France, contrary to the order of the Vice- 
 roy, by assistance of some banditti, was 
 the occasion of a difference between those 
 great men, and consequently of the late 
 civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy 
 having killed the Prince standing on his. 
 defence at his own castle. He told me 
 that the second time of the Scots coming; 
 into England, the King was six times their 
 number, and might easily have beatent 
 them ; but was betrayed, as were all other 
 his designs and counsels, by some, even of 
 his bedchamber, meaning M. Hamilton, 1 
 who copied Montrose's letters from time to- 
 time when his Majesty was asleep. 
 
 11M. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah 
 Walker, 2 of University College, with his. 
 two pupils, the sons of my worthy friend, 
 Henry Hildeyard, Esq., 8 whom I had 
 recommended to his care. 
 
 2 1 st. Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane, 4 
 the lady who conveyed the King to the 
 sea -side at his escape from Worcester. 
 Mr. John Cosin, son of the Dean, de- 
 bauched by the priests, wrote a letter .to 
 me to mediate for him with his father. 5 I 
 prepared for my last journey, being now 
 resolved to leave France altogether. 
 
 25/V2. The King and Duke received the 
 Sacrament first by themselves, the Lords 
 Byron and Wilmot holding the long towel 
 all along the altar. 
 
 2.6th. Came news of the death of that 
 rebel, Ireton. 6 
 
 1 [James Hamilton, third Marquis, and first 
 Duke of Hamilton, 1606-49. See ante, under 5th 
 March, 1649.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
 3 Of East Horsley in Surrey. Seepost, p. 171. 
 
 4 Jane Lane, afterwards Lady Fisher, d. 1689, 
 sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the 
 army of Charles II. dispersed at the battle of 
 Worcester. She assisted the King in effecting his 
 escape after that battle, his Majesty travelling 
 with her disguised as her serving-man, William 
 Jackson. 
 
 5 Seepost, under 13th April, 1652. 
 
 6 [Henry Ireton, 1611-51, cied.of the plague, 
 15th November, 1651, after the capture of Limerick 
 (seepost, under 6th March, 1652).] 
 
164 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1652 
 
 3 1 st December. Preached Dr. Wolley, 1 
 after which was celebrated the Holy Com- 
 munion, which I received also, preparative 
 of my journey, being now resolved to 
 leave France altogether, and to return God 
 Almighty thanks for His gracious protec- 
 tion of me this past year. 
 
 1 651 -2: 2nd January. News of my 
 sister Glanville's 2 death in childbed, which 
 exceedingly affected me. 
 
 I went to one Mark Antonio, an incom- 
 parable artist in enamelling. He wrought 
 by the lamp figures in boss, of a large size, 
 even to the life, so that nothing could be 
 better moulded. He told us stories of a 
 Genoese jeweller, who had the great ar- 
 canum, and had made projection before 
 him several times. He met him at Cyprus 
 travelling into Egypt ; in his return from 
 whence, he died at sea, and the secret 
 with him, that else he had promised to 
 have left it to him ; that all his effects 
 were seized on, and dissipated by the 
 Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. 
 He also affirmed, that being in a gold- 
 smith's shop at Amsterdam, a person of 
 very low stature came in, and desired the 
 goldsmith to melt him a pound of lead ; 
 which done, he unscrewed the pommel of 
 his sword, and taking out of a little box a 
 small quantity of powder, casting it into 
 the crucible, poured an ingot out, which 
 when cold he took up, saying, "Sir, you 
 will be paid for your lead in the crucible," 
 and so went out immediately. When he 
 was gone the goldsmith found four ounces 
 of good gold in it ; but could never set eye 
 again on the little man, though he sought 
 all the city for him. Antonio asserted this 
 with great obtestation ; nor know I what 
 to think of it, there are so many impostors 
 and people who love to tell strange stories, 
 as this artist did, who had been a great 
 rover, and spoke ten different languages. 
 
 13M. I took leave of Mr. Waller, who, 
 having been proscribed by the rebels, had 
 obtained of them permission to return, was 
 going to England. 3 
 
 29M. Abundance of my French and 
 English friends and some Germans came to 
 take leave of me, and I set out in a coach 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 162 n.] 
 
 2 [Jane Evelyn (see ante, p. 145).] 
 
 3 [He had been pardoned (November, 1651) by 
 Cromwell's influence.] 
 
 for Calais, in an exceeding hard frost which 
 had continued some time. We got that 
 night to Beaumont ; 30th, to Beauvais ; 
 31st, we found the ways very deep with 
 snow, and it was exceeding cold ; dined at 
 Poix ; lay at Pern£e, a miserable cottage of 
 miserable people in a wood, wholly unfur- 
 nished, but in a little time we had sorry 
 beds and some provision, which they told 
 me they hid in the wood for fear of the 
 frontier enemy, the garrisons near them 
 continually plundering what they had. 
 They were often infested with wolves. I 
 cannot remember that I ever saw more 
 miserable creatures. 
 
 1st February. I dined at Abbeville ; 2nd, 
 dined at Montreuil, lay at Boulogne ; 3rd, 
 came to Calais, by eleven in the morning ; 
 I thought to have embarked in the evening, 
 but, for fear of pirates plying near the 
 coast, I durst not trust our small vessel, 
 and stayed till Monday following, when 
 two or three lusty vessels were to depart. 
 
 I brought with me from Paris Mr. 
 Christopher Wase, sometime before made 
 to resign his Fellowship in King's College, 
 Cambridge, because he would not take the 
 Covenant. He had been a soldier in 
 Flanders, and came miserable to Paris. 
 From his excellent learning, and some 
 relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore 
 his charges into England, and clad and 
 provided for him, till he should find some 
 better condition ; and he was worthy of it. 1 
 There came with us also Captain Griffith, 2 
 Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir Timothy Tyrell, 
 of Shotover (near Oxford). 3 
 
 At Calais, I dined with my Lord Went- 
 worth, 4 and met with Mr. Pleath, 5 Sir 
 Richard Lloyd, 6 Captain Paine, and divers 
 of our banished friends, of whom under- 
 standing that the Count d'Estrades, Gover- 
 nor of Dunkirk, was in the town, who had 
 bought my wife's picture, taken by pirates 
 at sea the year before (my wife having sent 
 it for me in England), as my Lord of Nor- 
 
 1 Evelyn afterwards obtained an employment for 
 him (see fast, under 30th May 1652). _ He was later 
 headmaster of Dedham and Tunbridge Schools, 
 and, during 1671-90, superior of the University Press 
 at Oxford. He died in 1690. 
 
 2 [Perhaps the Prince Griffith of Vambre (see 
 ante, p. 154).] 
 
 3 [See Jiost, under 24th October, 1664.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 5 [See post, under 14th August, 1654.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
1652] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 165 
 
 wich had informed me at Paris, I made 
 my address to him, who frankly told me 
 that he had such a picture in his own bed- 
 chamber amongst other ladies, and how he 
 came by it ; seeming well pleased that it 
 was his fortune to preserve it for me, and 
 he generously promised to send it to any 
 friend I had at Dover ; I mentioned a 
 French merchant there, and so took my 
 leave. 1 
 
 dth February. I embarked early in the 
 packet-boat, but put tony goods in a stouter 
 vessel. It was calm, so that we got not to 
 Dover till eight at night. I took horse for 
 Canterbury, and lay at Rochester; next day, 
 to Gravesend, took a pair of oars, and landed 
 at Sayes Court, where I stayed three days 
 to refresh, and look after my packet and 
 goods, sent by a stouter vessel. I went to 
 visit my cousin, Richard Fanshawe, 2 and 
 divers other friends. 
 
 6tk March. Saw the magnificent funeral 
 of that arch-rebel, Ireton, carried in pomp 
 from Somerset House to Westminster, 
 accompanied with divers regiments of 
 soldiers, horse and foot ; then marched 
 the mourners, General Cromwell (his 
 father-in-law), 3 his mock-parliament-men, 
 officers, and forty poor men in gowns, 
 three led horses in housings of black cloth, 
 two led in black velvet, and his charging- 
 horse, all covered over with embroidery 
 and gold, on crimson velvet ; then the 
 guidons, ensigns, four heralds, carrying 
 the arms of the State (as they called it), 
 namely, the red cross of Ireland, with the 
 casque, wreath, sword, spurs, etc. ; next, a 
 chariot canopied of black velvet and six 
 horses, in which was the corpse ; the pall 
 held up by the mourners on foot ; the mace 
 and sword, with other marks of his charge 
 in Ireland (where he died of the plague), 
 carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a 
 grave pace, drums covered with cloth, 
 soldiers reversing their arms, they pro- 
 ceeded through the streets in a very 
 solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout 
 
 1 The picture was sent accordingly (see post, 
 under 15th April, 1652). 
 
 2 [Sir Richard Fanshawe, 1608-66, afterwards the 
 translator of the Lusiad of Camoens. He had been 
 taken prisoner at Worcester (see post, under 23rd 
 April, 1661, and 5th August, 1662).] 
 
 3 [Ireton had married Cromwell's eldest daughter 
 Bridget, 15th June, 1646. She subsequently became 
 the second wife of Fleetwood.] 
 
 rebel, and had been very bloody to the 
 King's" party, witness his severity at Col- 
 chester, when in cold blood he put to death 
 those gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas 
 and Sir George Lisle. 1 My cousin, R. 
 Fanshawe, 2 came to visit me, and inform 
 me of many considerable affairs. Sir 
 Henry Herbert 3 presented me with his 
 brother my Lord Cherbury's book, De 
 Veritate. 4 
 
 qth. I went to Deptford, where I made 
 preparation for my settlement, no more in- 
 tending to go out of England, but endeavour 
 a settled life, either in this or some other 
 place, there being now so little appearance 
 of any change for the better, all being 
 entirely in the rebels' hands ; and this 
 particular habitation and the estate con- 
 tiguous to it (belonging to my father-in- 
 law, actually in his Majesty's service) very 
 much suffering for want of some friend to 
 rescue it out of the power of the usurpers, 
 so as to preserve our interest, and take 
 some care of my other concerns, by the 
 advice and endeavour of my friends I 
 was advised to reside in it, and compound 
 with the soldiers. This I was besides 
 authorised by his Majesty to do, and 
 encouraged with a promise that what was 
 in lease from the Crown, if ever it pleased 
 God to restore him, he would secure to us 
 in fee- farm. I had also addresses and 
 cyphers, to correspond with his Majesty 
 and Ministers abroad : upon all which in- 
 ducements, I was persuaded to settle hence- 
 forth in England, having now run about 
 the world, most part out of my own 
 country, near ten years. I therefore now 
 likewise . meditated sending over for my 
 wife, whom as yet I had left at Paris. 
 
 1 [Sir George Lisle and Sir Charles Lucas were 
 shot by Ireton (27th August, 1648) in virtue of the 
 Parliamentary Ordinance of 8th December, 1646 
 (see post, under 8th July, 1656).] 
 
 2 [See note in previous column.] 
 
 3 [Sir Henry Herbert, 1595-1673. He was Master 
 of the Revels under Charles I. and Charles II. (see 
 post, under 8th February, 1665). He is mentioned 
 in Walton's life of his brother George. "Henry 
 was the sixth [son], who became a menial servant 
 to the Crown in the dayes of King James, and hath 
 continued to be so for fifty years ; during all which 
 time he hath been Master of the Revels ; a place 
 that requires a diligent wisdome, with which God has 
 blest him " (Lives, 1670; Herbert, p. n).] 
 
 4 [First published at Paris in 1624 ; at London 
 in 1645. It is said to be the earliest purely meta- 
 physical work by an Englishman.] 
 
1 66 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1652 
 
 14//1 March. I went to Lewisham, where 
 I heard an honest sermon on 1 Cor. ii. 5-7, 
 being the first Sunday I had been at 
 church since my return, it being now a rare 
 thing to find a priest of the Church of Eng- 
 land in a parish pulpit, most of which were 
 filled with Independents and Fanatics. 1 
 
 i$tk. I saw the Diamond and Ruby 
 launched in the Dock at Deptford, carrying 
 forty-eight brass cannon each ; Cromwell 
 and his grandees present, with great accla- 
 mations. 
 
 i8t/i. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, 
 of Eltham, 2 a sequestered person, came to 
 visit me. 
 
 19///. Invited by Lady Gerrard, 3 I went 
 to London, where we had a great supper ; 
 all the vessels, which were innumerable, 
 were of porcelain, she having the most 
 ample and richest collection of that curiosity 
 in England. 
 
 22nd. I went with my brother Evelyn 
 to Wotton, to give him what directions I 
 was able about his garden, which he was 
 now desirous to put into some form ; but 
 for which he was to remove a mountain 
 overgrown with huge trees and thicket, 
 with a moat within ten yards of the house. 
 This my brother immediately attempted, 
 and that without great cost, for more than 
 a hundred yards south, by digging down 
 the mountain, and flinging it into a rapid 
 stream ; it not only carried away the sand, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 148. In A Character 0/ England, 
 Evelyn enlarges upon this theme : — " I had some- 
 times the curiosity to visit the several worships of 
 these equivocal Christians and enthusiasts. . . . 
 Form, they observe none. They pray and read 
 without method, and, indeed, without reverence or 
 devotion. I have beheld a whole congregation sit 
 with their hats on, at the reading of the Psalms, 
 and yet bareheaded when they sing them. In 
 divers places they read not the Scriptures at all ; but 
 up into the pulpit, where they make an insipid, 
 tedious, and immethodical prayer, in phrases and a 
 tone so affected and mysterious, that they give it the 
 name of canting, a term by which they do. usually 
 express the gibberish of beggars and vagabonds ; 
 after which, there follows the sermon (which, for 
 the most part, they read out of a book), consisting 
 (like their prayers) of speculative and abstracted 
 notions and things, which, nor the people nor them- 
 selves well understand : but these they extend to 
 an extraordinary length and Pharisaical repeti- 
 tions. . . . The Minister uses no habit of distinc- 
 tion, or gravity, but steps up in quergo [in ordinary 
 costume] ; and when he laies by his cloak (as I 
 have observed some of them) he has the action 
 rather of a preacher than a divine" {Miscellaneous 
 Writings, 1825, pp. 152-53).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 148.] 3 [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 etc., but filled up the moat, and levelled 
 that noble area, where now the garden and 
 fountain is. 1 The first occasion of my 
 brother making this alteration was my 
 building the little retiring - place between 
 the great wood eastward next the meadow, 
 where, some time after my father's death, 
 I made a triangular pond, or little stew, 
 with an artificial rock, after my coming 
 out of Flanders. 
 
 29M. I heard that excellent prelate, the 
 primate of Ireland (Jacobus Ussher) 2 preach 
 in Lincoln's Inn, on Hebrew iv. 16, encour- 
 aging of penitent sinners. 
 
 5M April. My brother George brought 
 to Sayes Court Cromwell's Act of Oblivion 
 to all that would submit to the Govern- 
 ment. 3 
 
 iyk. News was brought me that Lady 
 Cotton, my brother George's wife, was 
 delivered of a son. 4 
 
 I was moved by a letter out of France to 
 publish the letter which some time since I 
 sent to Dean Cosin's proselyted son ; but I 
 did not conceive it convenient, for fear of 
 displeasing her Majesty, the Queen. 5 
 
 15M. I wrote to the Dean, touching 
 my buying his library, which was one of 
 the choicest collections of any private 
 person in England. 6 
 
 The Count d'Estrades most generously 
 and handsomely sent me the picture of my 
 wife 7 from Dunkirk, in a large tin case, 
 without any charge. It is of Mr. Bourdon, 
 and is that which has the dog in it, and is 
 to the knees, but it has been something 
 spoiled by washing it ignorantly with soap- 
 suds. 
 
 2$t/i. I went to visit Alderman Ken- 
 drick, a fanatic Lord Mayor, who had 
 married a relation of ours, where I met 
 with a Captain who had been thirteen 
 times to the East Indies. 
 
 1 The fountain still remains. 
 
 2 [James Ussher, 1581 - 1656, Archbishop of 
 Armagh from 1625.] 
 
 3 [The Act of Amnesty, 24th February, which 
 pardoned all State offences previous to the Battle of 
 Worcester, with some exceptions.] 
 
 4 [Evelyn's pedigree gives no account of this son.] 
 
 5 [From a letter written by Dean Cosin to Evelyn 
 from Paris, 3rd April, 1652, it would seem that 
 Prince Charles himself discouraged the publication, 
 as the Queen (Henrietta Maria) "had been pleased 
 to interest herself in the matter " of the conversion.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 162 n. The above letter refers 
 also to this subject.] 
 
 7 See ante, p. 165 n. 
 
1652] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 167 
 
 2gt/i April. Was that celebrated eclipse 
 of the sun, so much threatened by the 
 astrologers, and which had so exceedingly 
 alarmed the whole nation that hardly any 
 one would work, nor stir out of their 
 houses. So ridiculously were they abused 
 by knavish and ignorant star-gazers ! 
 
 We went this afternoon to see the 
 Queen's house at Greenwich, 1 now given 
 by the rebels to Bulstrode Whitelocke,' 2 
 one of their unhappy counsellors, and 
 keeper of pretended liberties. ^ 
 
 \0tl1 May. Passing by Smithfield^I 
 saw a miserable creature burning, who had 
 murdered her husband.. I went to see 
 some workmanship of that admirable 
 artist, Reeves, famous for perspective, and 
 turning curiosities in ivory. 
 
 29th. I went to give order about a 
 coach to be made against my wife's coming, 
 being my first coach, the pattern whereof 
 I brought out of Paris. 
 
 2>Qth. I went to obtain of my Lord 
 Devonshire 3 that my nephew, George, 4 
 might be brought up with my young Lord, 
 his son, to whom I was recommending 
 Mr. Wase. 5 I also inspected the manner 
 of camletting silk and grograms at one 
 Monsieur La Doree's in Moorfields, and 
 thence to Colonel Morley, 6 one of their 
 Council of State, as then called, who had 
 been my schoolfellow, to request a pass 
 for my wife's safe landing, and the goods 
 she was to bring with her out of France ; 
 which he courteously granted, and did me 
 many other kindnesses, that was a great 
 matter in those days. 
 
 1 [Greenwich Palace, which had been greatly 
 improved by Henrietta Maria.] 
 
 2 [Bulstrode Whitelocke, 1605-75. He is de- 
 scribed by Mr. G. W. Trevelyan as "a Puritan 
 lawyer and constitutionalist, very much at sea 
 under Cromwell, and trying to serve his country in 
 strange times." His Memorials of English 
 Affairs, 1625-60, published 1682, constitute a 
 valuable contemporary record. In 1653-54 he was 
 ambassador to Sweden.] 
 
 3 William Cavendish, third Earl of Devonshire, 
 1617-84. "My young Lord," with whom Evelyn 
 desired that his nephew George might " be brought 
 up," was the Earl's only son, William, 1640-1707, 
 created 1694 Marquis of Hartington, and Duke of 
 Devonshire. . 
 
 4 [George Evelyn (d. 1676) was the eldest son of 
 Evelyn's elder brother by his first wife, Mary 
 Caldwell, d. 1644.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 164.] 
 
 6 [Colonel Herbert Morley, 1616-67, a Parlia- 
 mentary officer. He had been Evelyn's school- 
 mate at Lewes.] 
 
 In the afternoon, at Charlton church, 
 where I heard a Rabbinical sermon. Here 
 is a fair monument in black marble of 
 Sir Adam Newton, 1 who built that fair 
 house near it for Prince Henry, and where 
 my noble friend, Sir Henry Newton, suc- 
 ceeded him. 2 
 
 yd June. I received a letter from 
 Colonel Morley to the Magistrates and 
 Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her 
 landing, and show her all civility. 
 
 dfth. I set out to meet her now on her 
 journey from Paris, after she had obtained 
 leave to come out of that city, which had 
 now been besieged some time by the Prince 
 of Conde's army in the time of the rebellion, 
 and after she had been now near twelve 
 years from her own country, that is, since 
 five years of age, 3 at which time she went 
 over. I went to Rye to meet her, where 
 was an embargo on occasion of the late 
 conflict with the Holland fleet, the two 
 nations being now in war, and which made 
 sailing very unsafe. 
 
 On Whit Sunday, I went to the church 
 (which is a very fair one), and heard one 
 of the canters, 4 who dismissed the assembly 
 rudely, and without any blessing. Here 
 I stayed till the 10th with no small im- 
 patience, when I walked over to survey 
 the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq- 
 port, which by the remains and ruins of 
 ancient streets and public structures, dis- 
 covers it to have been formerly a consider- 
 able and large city. 5 There are to be seen 
 vast caves and vaults, walls and towers, 
 ruins of monasteries and of a sumptuous 
 church, in which are some handsome 
 monuments, especially of the Templars, 
 buried just in the manner of those in the 
 
 1 Adam Newton (d. 1630) was tutor and after- 
 wards secretary to Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest 
 son of James I., who, in 1620, created him a 
 baronet. [Charlton Church, Kent (St. Luke's), 
 was erected by his trustees. His monument in the 
 N. aisle of the chancel is by Nicholas Stone.] 
 
 2 [Sir Henry Newton, afterwards Puckering, 
 1618-1701, was Sir Adam's only son. Charlton 
 House, said to have been built by Inigo Jones, is 
 south of St. Luke's Church (see post, under 9th 
 June, 1653).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 166 «.] 
 
 5 ["That poor skeleton of ancient Winchelsea," 
 John Wesley calls it. Under a large ash tree by 
 the side of its ruined church of St. Thomas, on the 
 7th October, 1790, he preached his last outdoor 
 sermon {Journal, 1901, iv. 475).] 
 
1 68 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1652 
 
 Temple at London. This place being now 
 all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovels 
 and cottages only standing, hath yet a 
 Mayor. 1 The sea, which formerly rendered 
 it a rich and commodious port, has now 
 forsaken it. 
 
 1 \t h June. About four in the afternoon, 
 being at bowls on the green, we discovered 
 a vessel which proved to be that in which 
 my wife was, and which got into the 
 harbour about eight that evening, to my 
 no small joy. They had been three days 
 at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, through 
 which they passed, taken for fishers, which 
 was great good fortune, there being seven- 
 teen bales of furniture and other rich 
 plunder, which I bless God came all safe to 
 land, together with my wife, and my Lady 
 Browne, her mother, who accompanied 
 her. My wife being discomposed by 
 having been so long at sea, we set not 
 forth towards home till the 14th, when 
 hearing the small-pox was very rife in and 
 about London, and Lady Browne having 
 a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I 
 carried them thither, and stayed in a very 
 sweet place, private and refreshing, and 
 took the waters myself till the 23rd, when 
 I went to prepare for their reception, 
 leaving them for the present in their little 
 cottage by the Wells. 
 
 The weather being hot, and having sent 
 my man on before, I rode negligently 
 under favour of the shade, till, within 
 three miles of Bromley, at a place called 
 the Procession Oak, two cut-throats started 
 out, and striking with long staves at the 
 horse, and taking hold of the reins, threw 
 me down, took my sword, and haled me 
 into a deep thicket, some quarter of a 
 mile from the highway, where they might 
 securely rob me, as they soon did. What 
 they got of money, was not considerable, 
 but they took two rings, the one an emerald 
 with diamonds, the other an onyx, 2 and 
 a pair of buckles set with rubies and 
 diamonds, which were of value, and after 
 all bound my hands behind me, and my 
 feet, having before pulled off my boots ; 
 
 1 [Which functionary, according to Murray's 
 Sussex, 1803, p. 20, has, nevertheless, one of the 
 oldest (Tudor) civic maces in existence.] 
 
 2 [This seal, described in Evelyn's will as his 
 "fine Onix Seale, set in Gold in fleure work, with 
 my Cyfer and Armes inamell'd," is figured at p. 
 31, vol. v., of Brayley's Surrey, 1850.] 
 
 they then set me up against an oak, with 
 most bloody threats to cut my throat if I 
 offered to cry out, or make any noise ; for 
 they should be within hearing, I not being 
 the person they looked for. I told them 
 that if they had not basely surprised me 
 they should not have had so easy a prize, 
 and that it would teach me never to ride 
 near a hedge, since, had I been in the 
 mid-way, they durst not have adventured 
 on me ; at which they cocked their pistols, 
 and told me they had long guns, too, and 
 were fourteen companions. I begged for 
 my onyx, and told them it being engraved 
 with my arms would betray them ; but 
 nothing prevailed. My horse's bridle they 
 slipped,, and searched the saddle, which 
 they pulled off, but let the horse graze, and 
 then turning again bridled him and tied 
 him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, 
 and thus left me bound. My horse was 
 perhaps not taken, because he was marked 
 and cropped on both ears, and well known 
 on that road. Left in this manner, griev- 
 ously was I tormented with flies, ants, 
 and the sun, nor was my anxiety little how 
 I should get loose in that solitary place, 
 where I could neither hear nor see any 
 creature but my poor horse and a few sheep 
 straggling in the copse. 
 
 After near two hours' attempting, I got 
 my hands to turn palm to palm, having 
 been tied back to back, and then it was 
 long before I could slip the cord over my 
 wrists to my thumb, which at last I did, 
 and then soon unbound my feet, and 
 saddling my 'horse and roaming a while 
 about, I at last perceived dust to rise, and 
 soon after heard the rattling of a cart, 
 towards which I made, and, by the help 
 of two countrymen, I got back into the 
 highway. I rode to Colonel Blount's, a 
 great justiciary of the times, who sent out 
 hue and cry immediately. The next 
 morning, sore as my wrists and arms were, 
 I went to London, and got 500 tickets 
 printed and dispersed by an officer of 
 Goldsmiths' Hall, and within two days had 
 tidings of all I had lost, except my sword, 
 which had a silver hilt, and some trifles. 
 The rogues had pawned one of my rings 
 for a trifle to a goldsmith's servant, before 
 the tickets came to the shop, by which 
 means they escaped ; the other ring was 
 bought by a victualler, who brought it to 
 
1652] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 169 
 
 a goldsmith, but he having seen the ticket 
 seized the man. I afterwards discharged 
 him on his protestation of innocence. Thus 
 did God deliver me from these villains, 
 and not only so, but restored what they 
 took, as twice before he had graciously 
 done, both at sea and land ; I mean when 
 I had been robbed by pirates, and was in 
 danger of a considerable loss at Amster- 
 dam ; for which, and many, many signal 
 preservations, I am extremely obliged to 
 give thanks to God my Saviour. 
 
 2$thjune. After a drought of near four 
 months, there fell so violent a tempest of 
 hail, rain, wind, thunder, and lightning, as 
 no man had seen the like in his age ; the 
 hail being in some places four or five inches 
 about, brake all glass about London, especi- 
 ally at Deptford, and more at Greenwich. 
 
 29M. I returned to Tunbridge, and 
 again drank the water, till 10th July. 
 
 We went to see the house of my Lord 
 Clanricarde 1 at Summer -hill, near Tun- 
 bridge (now given to that villain, Bradshaw, 
 who condemned the King). 'Tis situated 
 on an eminent hill, with a park ; but has 
 nothing else extraordinary. 
 
 /\th July. I heard a sermon at Mr. 
 Packer's chapel at Groombridge,' 2 a pretty 
 melancholy seat, well wooded and watered. 
 In this house was one of the French 
 Kings 3 kept prisoner. The chapel was 
 built by Mr. Packer's father, in remem- 
 brance of King Charles the First's safe 
 return out of Spain. 4 
 
 9th. We went to see Penshurst, the 
 Earl of Leicester's, famous once for its 
 gardens and excellent fruit, and for the 
 noble conversation which was wont to 
 meet there, celebrated by that illustrious 
 person, Sir Philip Sidney, who there com- 
 posed divers of his pieces. It stands in a 
 park, is finely watered, and was now full 
 
 1 [Ulick de Burgh, fifth Earl and Marquis of 
 Clanricarde, 1604-57.] 
 
 2 In the parish of Speldhurst, in Kent, four 
 miles from Tunbridge Wells. John Packer, 
 1570?- 1649, was Clerk of the Privy Seal to 
 Charles I. 
 
 3 The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of 
 Agincourt, 4 Hen. V., by Richard Waller, then 
 owner of this place. See Hasted's Kent, vol. i. 
 
 P- 43 J - 
 
 4 With this inscription (according to Hasted, 1. 
 
 p. 432) over the door, " D.O.M. 1625, ob felicissimi 
 Caroli Principis Ex Hispania reducis Sacellum 
 hoc D.D.I.P."; and above it the device of the 
 Prince of Wales. 
 
 of company, on the marriage of my old 
 fellow colleague, Mr. Robert Smythe, who 
 married my Lady Dorothy Sidney, 1 widow 
 of the Earl of Sunderland. 
 
 One of the men who robbed me was 
 taken ; I was accordingly summoned to 
 appear against him ; and, on the 12th, 
 was in Westminster Hall, but not being 
 bound over, nor willing to hang the fellow, 
 I did not appear, coming only to save a 
 friend's bail ; but the bill being found, he 
 was turned over to the Old Bailey. In 
 the meantime, I received a petition from 
 the prisoner, whose father I understood 
 was an honest old farmer in Kent. He 
 was charged with other crimes, and con- 
 demned, but reprieved. I heard afterwards 
 that, had it not been for his companion, a 
 younger man, he would probably have 
 killed me. He was afterwards charged 
 with some other crime, but refusing to 
 plead, was pressed to death. 
 
 2yd. Came my old friend, Mr. 
 Spencer, 2 to visit me. 
 
 Tpth. I took advice about purchasing 
 Sir Richard's [Browne] interest of those 
 who had bought Sayes Court. 
 
 1st August. Came old Jerome Laniere, a 
 of Greenwich, a man skilled in painting 
 and music, and another rare musician, 
 called Mell. 4 I went to see his collection 
 of pictures, especially those of Julio 
 Romano, which surely had been the 
 King's, and an Egyptian figure, etc. 
 There were also excellent things of Poly- 
 dore, Guido, Raphael, and Tintoretto. 
 Laniere had been a domestic of Queen 
 Elizabeth, and showed me her head, an 
 intaglio in a rare sardonyx, cut by a 
 famous Italian, which he assured me was 
 exceeding like her. 
 
 1 [Dorothy Spencer, Countess of Sunderland, 
 1617-1684, Waller's " Sacharissa," and daughter of 
 Philip Sidney, Earl of Leicester. After her first 
 husband's death, she married, 8th July, 1652, Mr. 
 (afterwards Sir Robert) Smythe of Sutton-at-Hone 
 and Boundes in Kent, an old admirer, and 
 (according to Dorothy Osborne) "a very fine 
 gentleman."] 
 
 2 [Brother to the Earl of Sunderland (see post, 
 under 15th July, 1669).] 
 
 3 [Jerome Lanier or Laniere, an Italian, artist 
 and musician. He belonged to Queen Elizabeth's 
 band ; and was the father of Nicholas Laniere, the 
 portrait painter, 1588-1666.] 
 
 4 [Davis or Davie Mell, the violinist and clock- 
 maker,^. 1650, afterwards leader of Charles II. 's 
 band (see post, under 4th March, 1656).] 
 
170 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [165: 
 
 24th August. My first child, 1 a son, was 
 born precisely at one o'clock. 
 
 2nd September. Mr. Owen, the seques- 
 tered divine, of Eltham, christened my son 
 by the name of Richard. 
 
 25M. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, 
 so famous for the prospect (for the house is 
 a wretched one) and description of Barclay's 
 Icon Aiiimarum? 
 
 22nd [October?]. I went to Woodcote, 3 
 where Lady Browne was taken with a 
 scarlet fever, and died. She was carried 
 to Deptford, and interred in the church 4 
 near Sir Richard's relations with all decent 
 ceremonies, and according to the church- 
 office, for which I obtained permission, 
 after it had not been used in that church 
 for seven years. Thus ended an excellent 
 and virtuous lady, universally lamented, 
 having been so obliging on all occasions 
 to those who continually frequented her 
 house in Paris, which was not only an 
 hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted 
 and afflicted countrymen, during eleven 
 years' residence there in that honourable 
 situation. 
 
 $tk November. To London, to visit 
 some friends, but the insolences were so 
 great in the streets that I could not return 
 till the next day. 
 
 Dr. Scarburgh 5 was instant with me to 
 give the Tables of Veins and Arteries to 
 the College of Physicians, pretending he 
 
 1 [Richard Evelyn, d. 1658 (see post, under 27th 
 January, 1658).] 
 
 2 The book here referred to — says Bray — is in 
 the British Museum, entitled Joannis Barclaii Icon 
 Animarum, and printed at London, 1614, small 
 121110. It is written in Latin, and dedicated to 
 Lewis XIII. of France, for what reason does not 
 appear, the Author speaking of himself as a subject 
 of this country. It mentions the necessity of form- 
 ing the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener forms 
 his trees ; the different dispositions of men, in 
 different nations ; English, Scotch, and Irish, etc. 
 Chapter second contains a florid description of the 
 beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but does not 
 mention Dr. Mason, or his house. 
 
 3 [Epsom, the seat of Evelyn's brother Richard 
 -(see ante, p. 145).] 
 
 4 [The church of St. Nicholas, Deptford. On 
 the memorial tablet her age is given as forty-two, 
 and the date of death, 6th October.] 
 
 5 Dr. Charles Scarburgh, 1616-94, was educated 
 .at Caius College, Cambridge, where he obtained a 
 Fellowship. He afterwards studied medicine ; but 
 making himself too conspicuous as a Royalist 
 during the troubles, was ejected. Subsequently 
 he practised in London as a doctor. In 1669 he 
 was knighted and was named one of the King's 
 physicians. He published a work upon dissection. 
 
 would not only read upon them, but cele 
 brate my curiosity as being the first whc 
 caused them to be completed in tha 
 manner, 1 and with that cost ; but I was 
 not so willing yet to part with them, as tc 
 lend them to the College during theii 
 anatomical lectures ; which I did accord 
 ingly. 
 
 22nd. I went to London, where wa< 
 proposed to me the promoting that greai 
 work (since accomplished by Dr. Walton 
 Bishop of Chester), 2 Biblia Polyglotta^ b) 
 Mr. Pearson, that most learned divine. 3 
 
 2$th December. Christmas-day, no ser 
 mon anywhere, no church being permittee 
 to be open, so observed it at home. The 
 next day, we went to Lewisham,- where ar 
 honest divine preached. 
 
 31^. I adjusted all accounts, anc 
 rendered thanks to Almighty God' for his 
 mercies to me the year past. 
 
 1st January ^ 1652-3, I set apart in pre- 
 paration for the Blessed Sacrament, which 
 the next day Mr. Owen administered tc 
 me and all my family in Sayes Court, 
 preaching on John vi. 32, 33, showing the 
 exceeding benefits of our Blessed Savioui 
 taking our nature upon him. He hac 
 christened my son and churched my wife 
 in our own house as before noticed. 4 
 
 ijt/i. I began to set out the oval garder 
 at Sayes Court, 5 which was before a rude 
 orchard, and all the rest one entire field o 
 100 acres, without any hedge, except the 
 hither holly-hedge joining to the bank o 
 the mount walk. This was the beginning 
 of all the succeeding gardens, walks, groves 
 enclosures, and plantations there. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 129.] 
 
 2 [Brian Walton, 1600-61 ; Bishop of Chester 
 1600. His Polyglot was published 1654-57.] 
 
 a [John Pearson, 1613-86, afterwards Bishop o 
 Chester, 1673-86, and author of the Exposition 4 
 the Creed, 1659.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 170.] 
 
 5 [In the Commonwealth survey of June 2, 1651 
 Sayes Court is described thus : — " Manor hous< 
 built with timber with the apptenances thereunt< 
 belongeinge commonly called Sayes Court, Dept 
 ford . . . consisteinge of one hall, one plor, on 
 kitchen, one buttery, one larder, w tl1 a daryehouse 
 alsoe one chamber and thre cell ers . In y° secon( 
 storie eight chambers, with four clossetts, and thre' 
 garretts, two stables, and one other little stabl 
 joyninge to the aforesaid mano r howse, whicl 
 aforesaid mano r howse together with the sai< 
 garden orchard and court yards conteine togethe 
 two acres, two roodes, and sixteene pches, 2a. 2r 
 16 p. xiiij li " (Dews' Deptford, 2nd ed. 1884, p. 29). 
 
1653] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 171 
 
 21 j/ January. I went to London, and 
 sealed some of the writings of my purchase 
 •of Sayes Court. 
 
 loth. At our own parish -church, a 
 stranger preached. There was now and 
 then an honest orthodox man got into the 
 pulpit, and, though the present incumbent 
 was somewhat of the Independent, yet he 
 ordinarily preached sound doctrine, and 
 was a peaceable man ; which was an extra- 
 ordinary felicity in this age. 
 
 1st February. Old Alexander Ross 1 
 (author of Virgilhis Evangelizans, and 
 many other little books, presented me with 
 his book against Mr. Hobbes's Leviathan. 11 
 
 19th. I planted the orchard at Sayes 
 Court ; new moon, wind west. 
 
 22nd. Was perfected the sealing, livery 
 and seisin of my purchase of Sayes Court. 
 My brother, George Glanville, 3 Mr. Scuda- 
 more, Mr. Offley, 4 Co. William Glanville 
 (son to Serjeant Glanville, sometime Speaker 
 of the House of Commons), 5 Co. Stephens, 
 and several of my friends dining with me. 
 I had bargained for ^3200, but I paid 
 ^35oo. 6 
 
 25M March. Came to see me that rare 
 graver in taille-douce, Monsieur Richett ; 
 he was sent by Cardinal Mazarin to make 
 a collection of pictures. 
 
 nth April. I went to take the air in 
 Hyde Park, where every coach was made 
 to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence, by 
 the sordid fellow who had purchased it of 
 the State, as they were called. 7 
 
 ijth May. My servant Hoare, 8 who 
 wrote those exquisite several hands, fell 
 [ill] of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I 
 suppose, by tampering with £ (mercury) 
 about an experiment in gold. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
 2 [A View of all Religions in the World, etc., 
 1652, which went through many impressions.] 
 
 * [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 5 [Seejost, p. 177.] 
 
 6 [See^ost, under 30th May, 1663.] 
 
 7 [Cf. A Character of England, 1659 (by Evelyn). 
 "This Park was (it seemes) used by the late King 
 and Nobility for the freshness of the air, and the 
 goodly prospect : but it is that which now (besides 
 all other excises) they pay for here in England, 
 though it be free in all the world beside ; every 
 coach and horse which enters buying his mouthful, 
 and permission of the publicane who has pur- 
 chased it, for which the entrance is guarded with 
 porters and long staves " {Miscellaneous Writings, 
 1825, p. 165).] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
 29M. I went to London, to take my 
 last leave of my honest friend, Mr. Barton, 1 
 now dying : it was a great loss to me and 
 to my affairs. On the sixth of June, I 
 attended his funeral. 
 
 8th June. Came my brother George, 
 Captain Evelyn, the great traveller, 2 Mr. 
 Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas Keightley, 3 
 and a virtuoso, fantastical Simon, 4 who had 
 the talent of embossing so to the life. 
 
 gth. I went to visit my worthy neigh- 
 bour, Sir Henry Newton [at Charlton], 5 
 and consider the prospect, which is doubt- 
 less for city, river, ships, meadows, hill, 
 woods, and all other amenities, one of the 
 most noble in the world ; so as, had the 
 house running water, it were a princely 
 seat. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in- 
 law came to visit me, and he presented me 
 with a seleniscope. 6 
 
 igth. This day, I paid all my debts to 
 a farthing ; oh, blessed day ! 
 
 21st. My Lady Gerrard, and one Esquire 
 Knight, a very rich gentleman, living in 
 Northamptonshire, visited me. 
 
 237-0?'. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, 
 came to see my collections. 7 
 
 2JI/1. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small 
 phial of his aurum potabile^ with a letter, 
 showing the way of administering it, and 
 the stupendous cures it had done at Paris ; 
 but, ere it came to me, by what accident I 
 know not, it was all run out. 
 
 ijth August. I went to visit Mr. Hilde- 
 yard, at his house at Horsley (formerly the 
 great Sir Walter Ralegh's), 9 where met me 
 
 1 [John Barton. He is mentioned in a letter of 
 25th April, 1652, from Evelyn to Sir Edward 
 Thurland.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 3 ».] 
 
 4 Thomas Simon, 1623 ?-6s, a strange eccentric 
 person, but a most excellent modeller after life, and 
 engraver of medals. [He made dies for Cromwell, 
 and was joint chief graver to the Mint.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 167.] 
 
 6 [An instrument for looking at the moon.] 
 
 7 [Peter Lombart, a Huguenot, long resident in 
 England. It was Lombart who engraved Charles I. 
 on horseback after Vandyck, then substituted 
 Cromwell's face for Charles's, and then once more 
 restored the face of the King. ] 
 
 8 [Tincture of Gold, a medicine made of the body 
 of gold (Bailey).] 
 
 9 [Evelyn is here in error : Mr. Hildeyard was of 
 East Horsley (see ante, pp. 148, 163), which he had 
 bought of Sir Walter's son, Carew Ralegh of West 
 Horsley, to whom East Horsley had been con- 
 veyed in 1629 by Thomas, Earl of Southampton. 
 There is a mural monument to Hildeyard in East 
 
172 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 Mr. Oughtred, the famous mathematician; 1 
 he showed me a box, or golden case, of 
 divers rich and aromatic balsams, which a 
 chemist, a scholar of his, had sent him out 
 of Germany. 
 
 2\st August. I heard that good old 
 man, Mr. Higham, 2 the parson of the parish 
 of Wotton where I was born, and who had 
 baptized me, preach after his very plain 
 way on Luke, comparing this troublesome 
 world to the sea, the ministers to the 
 fishermen, and the saints to the fish. 
 
 22nd. We all went to Guildford, to 
 rejoice at the famous inn, the Red Lion, 3 
 and to see the Hospital, and the monu- 
 ment of Archbishop Abbot, the founder, 4 
 who lies buried in the chapel of his 
 endowment. 
 
 2%tk September. At Greenwich preached 
 that holy martyr, Dr. Hewit, 5 on Psalm xc. 
 1 1 , magnifying the grace of God to peni- 
 tents, and threatening the extinction of his 
 Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of 
 the age. 
 
 1 \th October. My son, John Standsfield, 
 was born, being my second child, and 
 christened by the name of my mother's 
 father, that name now quite extinct, being 
 of Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in 
 my library at Sayes Court, where he after- 
 wards churched my wife, I always making 
 use of him on these occasions, 6 because the 
 parish minister durst not have officiated 
 according to the form and usage of the 
 Church of England, to which I always 
 adhered. 
 
 25M. Mr. Owen preached in my library 
 at Sayes Court on Luke xviii. 7, 8, an ex- 
 cellent discourse on the unjust judge, show- 
 ing why Almighty God would sometimes 
 be compared by such similitudes. He 
 
 Horsley Church. He died 8th January, 1674, aged 
 66 (Brayley's Surrey, 1850, ii. pp. 65, 68).] 
 
 1 [William Oughtred, 1575-1660, Rector of Albury, 
 great as a dialhst and mathematician (see post, 
 tinder 28th August, 1665). There are prints of" him 
 by Hollar.] 
 
 3 [See post, under nth May, 1684.] 
 
 3 [The Red Lion, where, according to Aubrey, 
 they could "make fifty Beds," was a notable 
 hostelry even in a town always most famous for 
 its Inns."] 
 
 4 [Archbishop Abbot's Hospital is on the N. side 
 of Guildford High Street. His monument is in the 
 (restored) Church of the Holy Trinity just opposite.] 
 
 5 [Dr. John Hewit, 1614-58, ' Minister of St. 
 Gregory's, Castle Baynard Ward, afterwards exe- 
 cuted for treason on Tower Hill.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 147.] 
 
 afterwards administered to us all the Holy 
 Sacrament. 
 
 2%th. Went to London, to visit my 
 Lady Gerrard, where I saw that cursed 
 woman called the Lady Norton, of whom 
 it was reported that she spit in our King's 
 face as he went to the scaffold. Indeed, 
 her talk and discourse was like an impudent 
 woman. 
 
 2\st November. I went to London, to 
 speak with Sir John Evelyn, 1 my kinsman, 
 about the purchase of an estate 2 of Mr. 
 Lambard's at Westerham, which after- 
 wards Sir John himself bought for his son- 
 in-law, Leech. 
 
 4th December. Going this day to our 
 church, I was surprised to see a tradesman, 
 a mechanic, 3 step up ; I was resolved yet 
 to stay and see what he would make of it. 
 His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20 : "And 
 Benaiah went down also and slew a lion in 
 the midst of a pit in the time of snow " : 
 the purport was, that no danger was to be 
 thought difficult when God called for shed- 
 ding of blood, inferring that now the saints 
 were called to destroy temporal govern- 
 ments ; with such feculent stuff ; so danger- 
 ous a crisis were things grown to. 
 
 2iyth. Christmas-day. No churches, or 
 public assembly. I was fain to pass the 
 devotions of that blessed day with my 
 family at home. 
 
 1653-4 : 20th January. Came to see 
 [me] my old acquaintance and the most 
 incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. 
 Clark, 4 after his travels. He was an ex- 
 cellent musician, a discreet gentleman, 
 born in Devonshire (as I remember). 
 Such music before or since did I never 
 hear, that instrument being neglected for 
 its extraordinary difficulty ; but, in my 
 judgment, far superior to the lute itself, or 
 whatever speaks with strings. 
 
 25^. Died my son, J. Standsfield, 5 of 
 
 1 [Of Godstone.] 
 
 2 [Squerryes. See post, under 5th August, 1658.] 
 
 3 [After the Act of Uniformity numbers of these 
 preachers "returned to the occupations they had 
 unwisely quitted. Among these are enumerated 
 a brewer, several maltsters, a publican, a tobacco- 
 merchant, and a tobacco-cutter ; a merchant, a 
 factor in Holland ; a land-steward, a bookseller, a 
 farmer, a grocer, a ploughman, a pattern-drawer, a 
 skinner, a stay-stitcher, and a woolmonger " {Annals 
 0/ England, 1876, p. 465).] 
 
 4 [See/<?.y/, under 14th November, 1668.] 
 
 5 [See above, under nth October, 1653]. 
 
1654] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 17; 
 
 convulsion-fits ; buried at Deptford on the 
 east corner of the church, near his mother's 
 great-grandfather, and other relatives. 
 
 Slh February. Ash - Wednesday. In 
 contradiction to all custom and decency, 
 the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the Lord 
 Mayor's, riding in triumph through the 
 city. 
 
 14/-&. I saw a tame lion play familiarly 
 with a lamb ; he was a huge beast, and I 
 thrust my hand into his mouth and found 
 his tongue rough like a cat's ; a sheep also 
 with six legs, which made use of five of 
 them to walk ; a goose that had four legs, 
 two crops, and as many vents. 
 
 29th March. That excellent man, Mr. 
 Owen, 1 preached in my library on Matt, 
 xxviii. 6, a resurrection-sermon, and after 
 it we all received the Holy Communion. 
 
 6th April. Came my Lord Herbert, 
 Sir Kenelm Digby, 2 Mr. Denham, 3 and 
 other friends, to see me. 
 
 15M. I went to London, to hear the 
 famous Dr. Jeremy Taylor 4 (since Bishop 
 of Down and Connor) at St. Gregory's 
 (near St. Paul's) 5 on Matt. vi. 48, con- 
 cerning evangelical perfection. 
 
 $th May. I bound my lackey, Thomas 
 Headly, apprentice to a carpenter, giving 
 with him five pounds and new clothing ; 
 he thrived very well, and became rich. 
 
 8th. I went to Hackney, to see Lady 
 Brooke's garden, which was one of the 
 neatest and most celebrated in England, 
 the house well furnished, but a despic- 
 able building. Returning, visited one Mr. 
 Tomb's garden ; it has large and noble 
 walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, 
 planted in strawberry borders, staked at 
 ten feet distances; the banqueting -house 
 of cedar, where the couch and seats were 
 carved a Vantiqice ; some good pictures in 
 the house, especially one of Vandyck's, 
 being a man in his shirt ; also some of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 147.] 2 [See ante, p. 19.] 
 
 3 [John Denham, the poet, afterwards Sir John, 
 1615-69. At this date, he had been attendant to 
 Henrietta Maria at Paris, where Evelyn had no 
 doubt become acquainted with him. His well- 
 known Cooper's Hill was published in 1642.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Jeremy Taylor, 1613-67, often referred to 
 hereafter. His Holy Living was published in 1650 ; 
 his Holy Dying in 1651. He became Bishop of 
 Down and Connor in 1661.] 
 
 5 [St. Gregory's stood pretty much where Bird's 
 statue of Queen Anne now stands in St. Paul's 
 Churchyard. It was destroyed in the Great Fire.] 
 
 Steenwyck. I also called at Mr. Ducie's, 
 who has indeed a rare collection of the 
 best masters, and one of the largest stories 
 of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas 
 Fowler's aviary, which is a poor business. 
 
 10th. My Lady Gerrard treated us at 
 Mulberry Garden, 1 now the only place of 
 refreshment about the town for persons of 
 the best quality to be exceedingly cheated 
 at ; Cromwell and his partisans having shut 
 up and seized on Spring Garden, 2 which, 
 till now, had been the usual rendezvous for 
 the ladies and gallants at this season. 
 
 nth. I now observed how the women 
 began to paint themselves, formerly a most 
 ignominious thing, and used only by prosti- 
 tutes. 
 
 14th. There being no such thing as 
 church - anniversaries in the parochial as- 
 semblies, I was forced to provide at home 
 for "Whit Sunday. 
 
 i$th. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the 
 translator of Juvenal, to visit me. 3 
 
 1 The Mulberry Garden stood on the site of what 
 is now Buckingham Palace and Gardens, a garden 
 of mulberry trees having been planted there by 
 James the First. The houses which preceded 
 Buckingham Palace on the site, were Goring 
 House, Arlington House, and Buckingham House 
 or the Queen's House, the last having been pulled 
 down to erect Nash's present building. Sir Charles 
 Sedley made the Mulberry Garden the subject of a 
 comedy, and it was not closed, as a place of enter- 
 tainment^ until the date of Charles the Second's 
 grant of it to Bennet, Earl of Arlington, in 1673. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 149. The Spring Garden, once a 
 pleasure-ground attached to Whitehall Palace, and 
 lying between Charing Cross and St. James's Park, 
 is now built upon. In the Character 0/ England 
 1659, Evelyn thus describes it. The enclosure — he 
 says — is "not disagreeable, for the solemnness of the 
 grove, the warbling of the birds, and as it opens into 
 the spacious walks at St. James's ; but the company 
 walk in it at such a rate, as you would think all the 
 ladies were so many Atalantases, contending with 
 their wooers ; . . . but as fast as they run, they stay 
 there so long, as if they wanted not time to finish 
 the race : for it is usuall here to find some of the 
 young company till midnight." Evelyn dwells 
 further on the exorbitant prices of refreshments, 
 which have enabled the proprietor, within a few 
 years, to purchase ^500 of annual rent (Jlfiscellane- 
 ous Writings, 1825, pp. 165-66).] 
 
 3 A member of a Yorkshire Catholic family, 
 who obtained the post of Gentleman of the Bed- 
 chamber to Prince Charles, occasionally varying his 
 duties by fighting against the Parliamentarians 
 and writing books. For his services at Ed.ee- 
 hill, he was knighted in 1642 by Charles I. He 
 was also made a D.C.L., and died in 1669. [His 
 version of Juvenal's Sixteen Satyrs, with Argu- 
 ments, Notes and Annotations, appeared in 1647. 
 He also translated Strada's Belgic War, 1650 (see 
 ante, p. 81).] 
 
174 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 8t/ijune. My wife and I set out in a 
 coach and four horses, in our way to visit 
 relations of hers in Wiltshire, and other 
 parts, where we resolved to spend some 
 months. We dined at Windsor, saw the 
 Castle and Chapel of St. George, where 
 they have laid our Blessed Martyr, King 
 Charles, in the vault just before the altar. 
 The church and workmanship in stone is 
 admirable. The Castle itself is large in 
 circumference ; but the rooms melancholy, 
 and of ancient magnificence. The keep, 
 or mount, .hath, besides its incomparable 
 prospect, a very profound well ; and the 
 terrace towards Eton, with the park, 
 meandering Thames, and sweet meadows, 
 yield one of the most delightful prospects. 
 That night, we lay at Reading. Saw my 
 Lord Craven's 1 house at Caversham, now 
 in ruins, his goodly woods felling by the 
 rebels. 
 
 gt/i. Dined at Marlborough, which 
 having been lately fired, was now new 
 built. At one end of this town, we saw 
 my Lord Seymour's house, 2 but nothing 
 observable save the Mount, to which we 
 ascended by windings for near half a 
 mile. It seems to have been cast up by 
 hand. We passed by Colonel Popham's, 
 a noble seat, park, and river. Thence to 
 Newbury, a considerable town, and Don- 
 nington, famous for its battle, siege, and 
 castle ; this last had been in the possession 
 of old Geoffrey Chaucer. Then to Alder- 
 maston, a house of Sir Humphrey Forster's, 
 built a la moderne? Also, that exceed- 
 ingly beautiful seat of my Lord Pembroke, 
 
 1 William Craven, Earl of Craven, 1606-97, eldest 
 son of Sir William Craven, Lord Mayor of London. 
 After serving under Gustavus Adolphus and Henry, 
 Prince of Orange, he distinguished himself against 
 the forces of the Parliament, and was created by 
 Charles I., in 1664, Viscount an d Earl Craven. He 
 survived all the changes of the government, and, in 
 the latter years of his life, acquired some celebrity 
 from an odd peculiarity of taste. He was so sure 
 to be at any conflagration that occurred in London, 
 that the people said his horse " smelt a fire as soon 
 as it happened." 
 
 - [I.e. that built by Inigo Jones's pupil, John 
 Webbe, for Francis, Baron Seymour of Trow- 
 bridge, 1 590-1664; and afterwards for nearly a 
 century the Castle Inn, a famous hostelry on the 
 great Bath Road, closed in 1843. It tnen became 
 the nucleus (C. House) of Marlborough College.] 
 
 3 [Evelyn's notes must have got mixed here. 
 For in going from Reading to Cadenham, by way 
 of Marlborough, he would pass first, Aldermaston, 
 then Newbury, and then Littlecot (Col. Popham's). 
 He has reversed the order.] 
 
 on the ascent of a hill, flanked with wood, 
 and regarding the river ; and so, at night, 
 to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward 
 Hungerford, Esq., uncle to my wife, 1 
 where we made some stay. The rest of 
 the week we did nothing but feast and 
 make good cheer, to welcome my wife. 
 
 2.7th. We all went to see Bath, where I 
 bathed in the Cross Bath. Among the 
 rest of the idle diversions of the town, one 
 musician was famous for acting a change- 
 ling, which indeed he personated strangely. 
 
 The facciata of this cathedral is remark- 
 able for its historical carving. The King's 
 Bath is esteemed the fairest in Europe. 
 The town is entirely built of stone, but 
 the streets narrow, uneven and unpleasant. 
 Here, we trifled and bathed, and inter- 
 visited with the company who frequent 
 the place for health, till the 30th, and 
 then went to Bristol, a city emulating 
 London, not for its large extent, but 
 manner of building, shops, bridge, traffic, 
 exchange, market-place, etc. The gover- 
 nor showed us the castle, of no great 
 concernment. 2 The city wholly mercan- 
 tile, as standing near the famous Severn, 
 commodiously for Ireland, and the Western 
 world. Here, I first saw the manner of 
 refining sugar and casting it into loaves, 
 where we had a collation of eggs fried in 
 the sugar furnace, 3 together with excellent 
 Spanish wine. But what appeared most 
 stupendous to me, was the rock of St. 
 Vincent, 4 a little distance from the town, 
 the precipice whereof is equal to anything 
 of that nature I have seen in the most con- 
 fragose 5 cataracts of the Alps, the river 
 gliding beneath them at an extraordinary 
 depth. Here, we went searching for 
 diamonds, 6 and to the Hot Wells, at its 
 
 1 [See /<?.$•/, pp. 178 and 179 n.\ 
 
 2 [Built under William the Conqueror and 
 finished by the Red Earl of Gloucester (Robert 
 the Consul), c. 11 38. Scarcely a vestige of it now 
 remains.] 
 
 3 An entertainment akin to the once popular 
 custom, eating of beefsteaks dressed on the stoker's 
 shovel, to the accompaniment of porter, at the 
 famous brewhouses in London. 
 
 4 [Called after the Chapel of St. Vincent of 
 Valentia. They are " Great Clifts w<=h seeme as 
 bounds to y 6 river Aven," says Celia Fiennes 
 {Diary (1689-94), 1888, p. 201) ; and are now united 
 by the Suspension Bridge.] 
 
 5 [Confra^osus, — broken, rugged. 1 
 
 6 [Crystals. " They Digg ye Bristol Diamonds 
 w ch Look very Bright and in their native Rudeness 
 
i6 54 ] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 175 
 
 foot. There is also on the side of this 
 horrid Alp a very romantic seat : and so 
 we returned to Bath in the evening, and 
 July 1 to Cadenham. 
 
 4//z July. On a letter from my wife's 
 uncle, Mr. Pretyman, 1 I waited back on 
 her to London, passing by Hungerford, 2 a 
 town famous for its trouts, and the next 
 day arrived at Deptford, which was 60 
 miles, in the extremity of heat. 
 
 6th. I went early to London, and the 
 following day met my wife and company 
 at Oxford, the eve of the Act. 
 
 %th. Was spent in hearing several exer- 
 cises in the schools ; and, after dinner, the 
 Proctor opened the Act at St. Mary's 
 (according to custom), 3 and the Prevarica- 
 tors, their drollery. Then, the doctors 
 disputed. We supped at Wadham College. 
 
 9M. Dr. French 4 preached at St. Mary's, 
 on Matt. xii. 42, advising the students the 
 search after true wisdom, not to be had in 
 the books of philosophers, but in the 
 Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the 
 famous Independent, Dr. Owen, perstring- 
 ing 5 Episcopacy. He was now Crom- 
 well's Vice-Chancellor. 6 We dined with 
 Dr. Ward, 7 Mathematical Professor (since 
 Bishop of Sarum), and at night supped in 
 Balliol College Hall, where I had once 
 been student and fellow-commoner, and 
 where they made me extraordinarily wel- 
 come. 8 
 
 \oth. On Monday, I went again to the 
 
 have a great Lustre and are pointed and Like y e 
 Diamond Cutting " (Celia Fiennes, Diary (1689-94), 
 1888, p. 201).] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 2 [Hungerford, partly in Berks, partly in Wilts, 
 is on the Kennet, a fine trout stream.] 
 
 3 See post, under 9th July, 1669.] 
 
 4 [Afterwards Chaplain to Dr. Sheldon, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 6 [Dr. John Owen, 1616-83. He was Vice- 
 Chancellor of Oxford, 1652-58, and Dean of Christ 
 Church, 1651-60.] 
 
 7 Dr. Seth Ward, 1617-89, finished his education 
 at Sidney Sussex College, Cambridge, where he 
 obtained a fellowship. He was expelled the uni- 
 versity in 1644, for refusing the Covenant. Oxford, 
 as usual, received him ; where he succeeded 
 Greaves, the Savilian Professor of Astronomy; 
 and in 1654, obtained the degree of Doctor of 
 Divinity. He was intimately acquainted with the 
 abstract sciences, and was one of that limited band 
 of scholars at whose meetings first arose the idea 
 of the Royal Society, in which Evelyn took so 
 deep an interest and so active a part. 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 5.] 
 
 schools, to hear the several faculties, and 
 in the afternoon tarried out the whole Act 
 in St. Mary's, the long speeches of the 
 Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the several 
 Professors, creation of Doctors, by the 
 cap, ring, kiss, etc., those ancient cere- 
 monies and institution being as yet not 
 wholly abolished. Dr. Kendal, 1 now In- 
 ceptor amongst others, performing his Act 
 incomparably well, concluded it with an 
 excellent oration, abating his Presbyterian 
 animosities, which he withheld, not even 
 against that learned and pious divine, Dr. 
 Hammond. The Act was closed with the 
 speech of the Vice -Chancellor, there being 
 but four in theology, and three in medi- 
 cine, which was thought a considerable 
 matter, the times considered. I dined at 
 one Monsieur Fiat's, a student of Exeter 
 College, and supped at a magnificent 
 entertainment of Wadham Hall, invited 
 by my dear and excellent friend, Dr. 
 Wilkins, 2 then Warden (after, Bishop of 
 Chester). 
 
 wth. Was the Latin sermon, which I 
 could not be at, though invited, being 
 taken up at All Souls, where we had 
 music, voices, and theorbos, performed 
 by some ingenious scholars. After dinner, 
 I visited that miracle of a youth, Mr. 
 Christopher Wren, 3 nephew to the Bishop 
 of Ely. Then Mr. Barlow 4 (since Bishop 
 of Lincoln), bibliothecarius of the Bodleian 
 Library, my most learned friend. He 
 showed us the rarities of that most famous 
 place, manuscripts, medals, and other 
 curiosities. Among the MSS. an old 
 English Bible, wherein the Eunuch men- 
 tioned to be baptized by Philip, is called 
 the Gelding : " and Philip and the Gelding 
 went down into the water," etc. The 
 original Acts of the Council of Basle 900 
 years since, with the bulla, or leaden affix, 
 
 1 [Dr. George Kendall, 1610-63. He defended 
 Calvinism in various polemics.] 
 
 2 [Dr. John Wilkins, 1614-72, Warden of Wad- 
 ham, 1648-59, and Bishop of Chester, 1668-7?. He 
 was active in forming the Royal Society ; and he 
 wrote many scientific and religious works. His 
 wife, Robina, was a sister of Cromwell ; and his 
 stepdaughter became the wife of Tillotson. Evelyn 
 was much attached to Wilkins.] 
 
 3 [Afterwards Sir Christopher, 1632-1723, at this 
 date of Wadham. See post, under 13th July, 1654, 
 and 24th October, 1664.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Thomas Barlow, 1 607-9 t, librarian OI * tne 
 Bodleian, 1642-60, and Bishop of Lincoln, 1675-91.] 
 
176 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 which has a silken cord passing through 
 every parchment ; a MS. of Venerable 
 Bede of 800 years' antiquity ; the old 
 Ritual secundum usum Sarum, exceeding 
 voluminous ; then, among the nicer 
 curiosities, the Proverbs of Solomon, 
 written in French by a lady, 1 every 
 chapter of a several character, or hand, 
 the most exquisite imaginable ; an hiero- 
 glyphical table, or carta, folded up like a 
 map, I suppose it painted on asses' hide, 
 extremely rare ; but what is most illustrious, 
 there were no less than 1000 MSS., in 
 nineteen languages, especially oriental, 
 furnishing that new part of the library 
 built by Archbishop Laud, from a design 
 of Sir Kenelm Digby and the Earl of 
 Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, 
 they show some Indian weapons, urns, 
 Lamps, etc., but the rarest is the whole 
 Alcoran, written on one large sheet of 
 calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or 
 cope, after the Turkish and Arabic char- 
 acter, so exquisitely written, as no printed 
 letter comes near it : also, a roll of magical 
 charms, divers talismans, and some medals. 
 
 Then, I led my wife into the Convoca- 
 tion-House, finely wainscoted ; the Divinity 
 School, and Gothic carved roof ; the 
 Physic, or Anatomy School, adorned with 
 some rarities of natural things ; but nothing 
 extraordinary save the skin of a jackal, a 
 rarely - coloured jacatoo, 2 or prodigious 
 large parrot, two humming birds, not 
 much bigger than our humble-bee, which 
 indeed I had not seen before, that I 
 remember. 
 
 12th July. We went to St. John's, saw 
 the library and the two skeletons, which 
 are finely cleansed and put together ; 
 observable is here also the store of mathe- 
 matical instruments, chiefly given by the 
 late Archbishop Laud, who built here a 
 handsome quadrangle. 
 
 Thence, we went to New College, where 
 the chapel was in its ancient garb, not- 
 withstanding the scrupulosity of the times. 
 
 1 Mrs. Hester English, or Inglis, 1 571-1624, 
 married to Bartholomew Kello, rector of Willingale 
 Spain, in Essex. There are MSS. written or 
 illuminated by her in the Bodleian, the British 
 Museum, and elsewhere. An account of her 
 curious penmanship is given in William Massey's 
 Origin and Progress 0/ Letters, 1763. 
 
 2 [Cockatoo. Evelyn calls chocolate, jacolatt 
 -(see p. 338), as does Pepys, Diary, 24th November, 
 
 1664.] 
 
 Thence, to Christ's Church, in whose 
 library was showed us an Office of 
 Henry VIII. , the writing, miniatures, 
 and gilding whereof is equal, if not sur- 
 passing, any curiosity I had seen of that 
 kind ; it was given by their founder, 
 Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of 
 the cathedral (famous in my time) I found 
 much abused. The ample hall and 
 column, that spreads its capital to sustain 
 the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very 
 remarkable. 
 
 Next, we walked to Magdalen College, 
 where we saw the library and chapel, 
 which was likewise in pontifical order, the 
 altar only I think turned tablewise, and 
 there was still the double organ, which 
 abominations (as now esteemed) were 
 almost universally demolished ; Mr. 
 Gibbons, 1 that famous musician, giving 
 us a taste of his skill and talents on that 
 instrument. 
 
 Hence, to the Physic Garden, where 
 the sensitive plant 2 was showed us for a 
 great wonder. There grew canes, olive 
 trees, rhubarb, but no extraordinary 
 curiosities, besides very good fruit, which, 
 when the ladies had tasted, we returned 
 in our coach to our lodgings. 
 
 13M. We all dined at that most obliging 
 and universally curious Dr. Wilkins's, at 
 Wadham College. He was the first who 
 showed me the transparent apiaries, which 
 he had built like castles and palaces, and 
 so ordered them one upon another, as to, 
 take the honey without destroying the bees. 
 These were adorned with a variety of dials, 
 little statues, vanes, etc.; and he was so 
 abundantly civil, finding me pleased with 
 them, to present me with one of the hives 
 which he had empty, and which I after- 
 wards had in my garden at Sayes Court, 
 where it continued many years, and which 
 his Majesty came on purpose to see and 
 contemplate with much satisfaction. He 
 had also contrived a hollow statue, which 
 gave a voice and uttered words by a long 
 
 1 [Christopher Gibbons, 1615-76, elder son of 
 Orlando Gibbons, and Mus.D. Oxford, 1663. He 
 was organist of Winchester Cathedral.] 
 
 2 ["There [in the Physic Garden] is also y« 
 sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and 
 thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curies up 
 together as if pained and after some tyme opens 
 abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a filbert 
 Leafe but much narrower and long " {Diary of_ 
 Celia Fiennes (1689-94), 1888, p. 26).] 
 
1654] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 177 
 
 concealed pipe that went to its mouth, 1 
 whilst one speaks through it at a good 
 distance. He had, above in his lodgings 
 and gallery, variety of shadows, dials, 
 perspectives, and many other artificial, 
 mathematical, and magical curiosities, a 
 way-wiser, 2 a thermometer, a monstrous 
 magnet, conic, and other sections, a balance 
 on a demi-circle ; most of them of his own, 
 and that prodigious young scholar Mr. 
 Christopher Wren ; who presented me 
 with a piece of white marble, which he 
 had stained with a lively red, very deep, 
 as beautiful as if it had been natural. 
 
 Thus satisfied with the civilities of 
 Oxford, we left it, dining at Farringdon, 
 a town which had been newly fired during 
 the wars ; and, passing near the seat of 
 Sir Walter Pye, we came to Cadenham. 
 
 \dthjuly. We went to another uncle and 
 relative of my wife's, Sir John Glanville, a 
 famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the 
 House of Commons ; 3 his seat is at Broad 
 Hinton, where he now lived but in the Gate- 
 house, his very fair dwelling-house having 
 been burnt by his own hands, to prevent 
 the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, 
 my cousin William Glanville's eldest son 
 showed me such a lock for a door, that 
 for its filing and rare contrivances was a 
 masterpiece, yet made by a country black- 
 smith. 4 But, we have seen watches made 
 by another with as much curiosity as the 
 best of that profession can brag of; and, 
 not many years after, there was nothing 
 more frequent than all sorts of iron-work 
 more exquisitely wrought and polished 
 than in any part of Europe, so as a door- 
 lock of a tolerable price was esteemed a 
 curiosity even among foreign princes. 
 
 Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 
 19th, to Sir Edward Baynton's at Spye 
 
 1 Such were the speaking figures once exhibited 
 in Spring Gardens, and in Leicester Fields. 
 
 2 [This is defined in the Rev. J. Ward's Diary 
 (1648-79), 1839, P- J 6o» as " an instrument called 
 a way-wiser by the motion whereof a man may see 
 how many steps he takes in a day ; I have seen 
 one worth thirty shillings." It corresponds to the 
 modern pedometer (see fiost, under 6th August, 
 1657, as to the application of this contrivance to 
 coaches).] 
 
 ^ 3 [Sir John Glanville, 1586-1661, Speaker of the 
 Short Parliament, 1640 ; knighted in 1641.] 
 
 4 A similar lock — says Bray — is still shown at 
 Hampden, affixed to the door of the room (one of 
 the few still remaining of the older building) which 
 the patriot is said to have occupied and slept in. 
 
 Park, a place capable of being made a 
 noble seat ; but the humorous old knight 
 has built a long single house of two low 
 stories on the precipice of an incomparable 
 prospect, and landing on a bowling-green 
 in the park. The house is like a long 
 barn, and has not a window on the 
 prospect side. After dinner, they went 
 to bowls, and, in the meantime, our 
 coachmen were made so exceeding drunk, 
 that in returning home we escaped great 
 dangers. This, it seems, was by order of 
 the Knight, that all gentlemen's servants 
 be so treated ; but the custom is barbarous, 
 and much unbecoming a Knight, still less 
 a Christian. 1 
 
 2Qth. We proceeded to Salisbury ; the 
 Cathedral I take to be the completest 
 piece of Gothic work in Europe, taken in 
 all its uniformity. The pillars, reputed to 
 be cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of 
 the quarry ; most observable are those in 
 the chapter-house. There are some re- 
 markable monuments, particularly the 
 ancient Bishops, founders of the Church, 
 Knights Templars, the Marquis of Hert- 
 ford's, the cloisters of the palace and 
 garden, and the great mural dial. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to Wilton, a 
 fine house of the Earl of Pembroke, in 
 which the most observable are the dining- 
 room in the modern-built part towards the 
 garden, richly gilded and painted with 
 story by De Crete ; 2 also, some other 
 apartments, as that of hunting landscapes, 
 by Tierce : 3 some magnificent chimney- 
 pieces, after the best French manner ; a 
 pair of artificial winding-stairs, of stone, 
 and divers rare pictures. The garden, 
 heretofore esteemed the noblest in England, 
 is a large handsome plain, with a grotto 
 and water-works, which might be made 
 
 1 [Butler makes this a characteristic of the 
 Country Squire. " He has but one Way of making 
 all Men welcome, that come to his House, and 
 that is, by making himself and them drunk, while 
 his Servants take the same Course with theirs, 
 which he approves of as good and faithful service" 
 (genuine Remains, 1759, ii. 92).] 
 
 2 [Probably one of three decorative painters 
 named De Critz.j 
 
 3 Edward Pierce, a celebrated painter of history, 
 landscape, and architecture, who worked under 
 Vandyck. He died a few years after the Restora- 
 tion. One of his sons, John, was also a painter ; 
 and another, Edward, a statuary and architect 
 (d. 1698), assisted Wren in building St. Clement 
 Danes Church in the Strand. 
 
178 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1654 
 
 much more pleasant, were the river that 
 passes through cleansed and raised ; for 
 all is effected by a mere force. It has a 
 flower garden, not inelegant. But, after 
 all, that which renders the seat delightful 
 is, its being so near the downs and noble 
 plains about the country contiguous to it. 
 The stables are well ordered and yield a 
 graceful front, by reason of the walks of 
 lime trees, with the court and fountain 
 of the stables adorned with the Csesar's 
 heads. 
 
 We returned this evening by the plain, 
 and 14-mile race, where out of my Lord's 
 hare-warren we were entertained with a 
 long course of a hare for near two miles 
 in sight. Near this, is a pergola, or stand, 
 built to view the sports : and so we came 
 to Salisbury, and saw the most consider- 
 able parts of the city. The market-place, 
 with most of the streets, are watered by 
 a quick current and pure stream running 
 through the middle of them, but are 
 negligently kept, when with a small charge 
 they might be purged and rendered in- 
 finitely agreeable, and [this] made one of 
 the sweetest towns, but now the common 
 buildings are despicable, and the streets 
 dirty. 
 
 2.2.nd July. We departed and dined at 
 a farm of my Uncle Hungerford's, called 
 Darnford Magna, situated in a valley 
 under the plain, most sweetly watered, 
 abounding in trouts catched by spear in 
 the night, when they come attracted by a 
 light set in the stern of a boat. 
 
 After dinner, continuing our return, we 
 passed over the goodly plain, or rather 
 sea of carpet, which I think for even- 
 ness, extent, verdure, and innumerable 
 flocks, to be one of the most delightful 
 prospects in nature, and reminded me of 
 the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of 
 in romances, 
 
 Now we were arrived at Stonehenge, 
 indeed a stupendous monument, appearing 
 at a distance like a castle ; how so many 
 and huge pillars of stone should have been 
 brought together, some erect, others trans- 
 verse on the tops of them, in a circular 
 area as rudely representing a cloister or 
 heathen and more natural temple, is 
 wonderful. The stone is so exceeding 
 hard that all my strength with a hammer 
 could not break a fragment ; which hard- 
 
 ness I impute to their so long exposure. 
 To number them exactly is very difficult, 
 they lie in such variety of postures and 
 confusion, though they seemed not to 
 exceed 100 ; we counted only 95. As to 
 their being brought thither, there being no 
 navigable river near, is by some admired ; 
 but for the stone, there seems to be the 
 same kind about 20 miles distant, some of 
 which appear above ground. About the 
 same hills, are divers mounts raised, con- 
 ceived to be ancient entrenchments, or 
 places of burial, after bloody fights. We 
 now went by the Devizes, a reasonable 
 large town, and came late to Cadenham. 
 
 2jt/i. To the hunting of a sorel deer, 1 
 and had excellent chase for four or five 
 hours, but the venison little worth. 
 
 29M. I went to Langford, to see my 
 cousin Stephens. 2 I also saw Dry field, the 
 house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, 
 grandfather to my wife, and sold by her 
 uncle; both the seat and house very honour- 
 able and well-built, much after the modern 
 fashion. 
 
 31 st. Taking leave of Cadenham, 3 where 
 we had been long and nobly entertained, 
 we went a compass into Leicestershire, 
 where dwelt another relation of my wife's ; 
 for I indeed made these excursions to show 
 her the most considerable parts of her 
 native country, who, from her childhood, 
 had lived altogether in France, as well as 
 for my own curiosity and information. 
 
 About two miles before coming to 
 Gloucester, we have a prospect from woody 
 hills into a most goodly vale and country. 
 Gloucester is a handsome city, considerable 
 for the church and monuments. The 
 minster is indeed a noble fabric. The 
 whispering gallery is rare, being through a 
 passage of twenty-five yards, in a many- 
 angled cloister, and was, I suppose, either 
 to show the skill of the architect, or some 
 invention of a cunning priest, who, standing 
 unseen in a recess in the middle of the 
 chapel, might hear whatever was spoken 
 at either end. This is above the choir, 
 in which lies buried King Stephen 4 under 
 a monument of Irish oak, not ill carved 
 
 1 [I.e. a buck of the fourth year.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 171.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 174.] 
 
 4 King Stephen was buried at Faversham. The 
 effigy Evelyn alludes to is that of Robert Curthose, 
 Duke of Normandy. 
 
1654] 
 
 THE D1AR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 179 
 
 considering the age. The new library is 
 a noble though a private design. I was 
 likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so 
 sweetly by it. The Duke's house, the 
 -castle works, are now almost quite dis- 
 mantled ; nor yet without sad thoughts did 
 I see the town, considering how fatal the 
 siege had been a few years before to our 
 good King. 
 
 1st August. We set out towards Wor- 
 cester, by a way thick planted with cider- 
 fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, 
 trickling out of a valley through a steep 
 declivity towards the foot of the great 
 Malvern Hills ; they are said to heal 
 many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, 
 sore eyes, etc. Ascending a great height 
 above them to the trench dividing England 
 from South Wales, we had the prospect of 
 all Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, 
 Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, Shrop- 
 shire, Warwick, Derby shires, and many 
 more. We could discern Tewkesbury, 
 King's-road, towards Bristol, etc. ; so as I 
 esteem it one of the goodliest vistas in 
 England. 
 
 2nd. This evening we arrived at Wor- 
 cester, the Judges of Assize and Sheriff 
 just entering as we did. Viewing the 
 town the next day, we found the Cathedral 
 much ruined by the late wars, otherwise a 
 noble structure. The town is neatly paved 
 and very clean, the goodly river Severn 
 running by it, and standing in a most 
 fertile country. 
 
 yd. We passed next through Warwick, 
 and saw the castle, the dwelling-house of 
 the Lord Brooke, 1 and the furniture noble. 
 It is built on an eminent rock which gives 
 prospect into a most goodly green, a 
 woody and plentifully watered country ; 
 the river running so delightfully under it, 
 that it may pass for one of the most sur- 
 prising seats one should meet with. The 
 gardens are prettily disposed ; but might 
 be much improved. Here they show us 
 Sir Guy's great two-handed sword, staff, 
 horse-arms, pot, and other relics 2 of that 
 famous knight -errant. Warwick is a fair 
 old town, and hath one church full of 
 ancient monuments. 
 
 1 [Francis Greville, third Baron Brooke.] 
 
 2 [Among which Celia Fiennes enumerates "his 
 wives jron slippers" and " the Rib of y° Dun-Cow 
 as bigg as halfe a great Cart Wheele" {Diary 
 (1689-94), 1888, p. 95).] 
 
 Having viewed these, I went to visit my 
 worthy friend, Sir H. Puckering, 1 at the 
 Abbey, and though a melancholy old seat, 
 yet in a rich soil. 
 
 Hence, to Sir Guy's grot, where they 
 say he did his penances, and died. 2 It is 
 a squalid den made in the rock, crowned 
 yet with venerable oaks and looking on a 
 goodly stream, so as, were it improved as 
 it might be, it were capable of being made 
 a most romantic and pleasant place. Near 
 this we were showed his chapel and 
 gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, 
 out of which there are likewise divers other 
 caves cut, and some very capacious. 
 
 The next place to Coventry. The Cross 
 is remarkable for Gothic work and rich 
 gilding, comparable to any I had ever 
 seen, except that of Cheapside in London, 
 now demolished. 3 This city has many 
 handsome churches, a beautiful wall, a 
 fair free -school and library to it; the 
 streets full of great shops, clean and well- 
 paved. At going forth the gate, they 
 show us the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, 
 said to have been killed by Sir Guy, but 
 which I take to be the chine of a whale. 
 
 4th. Hence, riding through a consider- 
 able part of Leicestershire, an open, rich, 
 but unpleasant country, we came late in 
 the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my 
 wife's uncle. 4 
 
 Jth. Went to Uppingham, the shire- 
 town of Rutland, pretty and well-built of 
 stone, which is a rarity in that part of 
 England, where most of the rural parishes 
 are but of mud, and the people living as 
 wretchedly as in the most impoverished 
 parts of France, which they much re- 
 semble, being idle and sluttish. The 
 country (especially Leicestershire) much in 
 common ; the gentry free drinkers. 
 
 .9M. To the old and ragged city of 
 Leicester, large and pleasantly seated, but 
 despicably built, the chimney-flues like so 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 167.] 
 
 2 [" 2 miles from the town is his Cave dugg out 
 by his own hands just y e dimention of his body as 
 the Common people say " {Diary of Celia Fiennes 
 (1689.94), 1888, p. 95).] 
 
 3 [May 2, 1643, Isaac Pennington, the regicide, 
 being Mayor of London. Evelyn was an eye- 
 witness (see ante, p. 26).] 
 
 4 Doubtless Mr. Hungerford (ante, p. 174). Sir 
 Edward Hungerford, K.B. — says Bray — presented 
 to the vicarage of Horninghold [a village N.E. of 
 Market Harborough] in 1676. 
 
i8o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 many smiths' forges ; however, famous for 
 the tomb of the tyrant, Richard the Third, 
 which is now converted to a cistern, at 
 which (I think) cattle drink. 1 Also, here 
 in one of the churches lies buried the mag- 
 nificent Cardinal Wolsey. 2 John of Gaunt 
 has here also built a large but poor Hos- 
 pital, near which a wretch has made him.a 
 house out of the ruins of a stately church. 
 Saw the ruins of an old Roman Temple, 
 thought to be' of Janus. Entertained at a 
 very fine collection of fruits, such as I did 
 not expect to meet with so far north, 
 especially very good melons. We returned 
 to my uncle's. 
 
 \<\th August. I took a journey into the 
 northern parts, riding through Oakham, a 
 pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous for the 
 tenure of the Barons (Ferrers), who hold 
 it by taking off a shoe from every noble- 
 man's horse that passes with his lord 
 through the street, unless redeemed with a 
 certain piece of money. In token of this, 
 are several gilded shoes nailed up on the 
 castle- gate, s which seems to have been 
 large and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, 
 a very sweet seat and park of the old Lady 
 Camden's. Next, by Burley House, be- 
 longing to the Duke of Buckingham, 4 and 
 worthily reckoned among the noblest seats 
 in England, situate on the brow of a hill, 
 built a la moderne near a park walled in, 
 and a fine wood at the descent. 
 
 Now we were come to Cottsmore, a 
 pretty seat belonging to Mr. Heath, 5 son 
 to the Lord Chief Justice of that name. 
 Here, after dinner, parting with the com- 
 pany that conducted us thus far, I passed 
 that evening by Belvoir Castle, built on a 
 round mount at the point of a long ridge 
 of hills, which affords a stately prospect, 
 and is famous for its strenuous resistance 
 in the late civil war. 
 
 Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town 
 
 1 [" I saw a piece of his tombstone he Lay in " — 
 says Celia Fiennes — " w ch was Cut out in exact 
 form for his body to Lye in ; y l remains to be seen 
 at y e Greyhound at Leaster but is partly broken " 
 (Diary (1689-94), 1888, p. 134).] 
 
 2 [In Leicester Abbey.] 
 
 3 A shoe was paid for as late as the year 1788, 
 by the Duke of York (Bray). 
 
 4 Called Rurley-on-the-Hill, to distinguish it from 
 the Earl of Exeter's, near Stamford. The Duke 
 of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, Earls 
 of Winchelsea and Nottingham. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 164.] 
 
 and garrison. Next, by Wharton House, 
 belonging to the Lord Chaworth, a hand- 
 some seat : then, by Home, a noble place 
 belonging to the Marquis of Dorchester, 
 and passed the famous river Trent, which 
 divides the South from the North of 
 England ; and so lay that night at Notting- 
 ham. 
 
 This whole town and county seems to be 
 but one entire rock, as it were, an exceed- 
 ing pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here, I 
 observed divers to live in the rocks and 
 caves, much after the manner as about 
 Tours, in France. 1 The church is well 
 built on an eminence ; there is a fair house 
 of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierre- 
 pont's ; an ample market-place; large 
 streets, full of crosses ; the relics of an 
 ancient castle, hollowed beneath which are 
 many caverns, especially that of the Scots 
 King, and his work whilst there. 2 
 
 This place is remarkable for being the 
 place where his Majesty first erected his 
 standard at the beginning of our late un- 
 happy differences. 3 The prospects from 
 this city towards the river and meadows 
 are most delightful. 
 
 i$th. We passed next through Sher- 
 wood Forest, accounted the most exten- 
 sive in England. Then, Papplewick, an 
 incomparable vista with the pretty castle 
 near it. Thence, we saw Newstead 
 Abbey, 4 belonging to the Lord Byron, 
 situated much like Fontainebleau in 
 France, capable of being made a noble 
 seat, accommodated as it is with brave 
 woods and streams ; it has yet remaining 
 the front of a glorious abbey church. Next, 
 by Mansfield town ; then Welbeck, the 
 house of the Marquis of Newcastle, seated 
 in a bottom in a park, and environed with 
 woods, a noble yet melancholy seat. The 
 palace is a handsome and stately building. 
 Next to Worksop Abbey, almost de- 
 molished ; the church has a double flat 
 tower entire, and a pretty gate. The 
 
 1 See ante, p. 45. 
 
 2 [Celia Fiennes, who was "very well Enter- 
 tained and very Reasonably at the Blackmoors 
 Head," speaks of the "Cellars dugg out of the 
 Rocks" (Diary, (1689-94), 1888, p. 56).] 
 
 3 [22nd August, 1642.] 
 
 4 An ancient house — says Forster — which has 
 passed from the old family it then and since 
 belonged to, but not till it had derived, from the 
 last Byron who dwelt in it, associations that have 
 given it interest. 
 
i6 54 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 181 
 
 manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, 
 and has to it a fair house at the foot of a 
 hill in a park that affords a delicate 
 prospect. Tickhill, a town and castle, 
 has a very noble prospect. All these in 
 Nottinghamshire. 1 
 
 l6tk August. We arrived at Doncaster, 
 where we lay this night ; it is a large fair 
 town, famous for great wax-lights, and good 
 stockings. 
 
 17M. Passed through Pontefract ; the 
 castle, famous for many sieges both of late 
 and ancient times, and the death of that 
 unhappy King murdered in it (Richard 
 II.), was now demolishing by the rebels; 
 it stands on a mount, and makes a goodly 
 show at a distance. The Queen has a 
 house here, and there are many fair seats 
 near it, especially Mr. Pierrepont's, built at 
 the foot of a hill out of the castle ruins. 
 We all alighted in the highway to drink 
 at a crystal spring, which they call Robin 
 Hood's Well ; near it, is a stone chair, and 
 an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to 
 the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the 
 side of which we have prospect of the 
 Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seat), 
 and in sight of divers other gentlemen's 
 fair houses. This tract is a goodly, fertile, 
 well -watered and wooded country, abound- 
 ing with pasture and plenty of provisions. 
 
 To York, the second city of England, 
 fairly walled, of a circular form, watered 
 by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of 
 considerable burden on it ; over it is a 
 stone bridge emulating that of London, 
 and built on ; the middle arch is larger 
 than any I have seen in England, with a 
 wharf of hewn stone, which makes the 
 river appear very neat. But most remark- 
 able and worthy seeing is St. Peter's 
 Cathedral, which of all the great churches 
 in England had been best preserved 2 from 
 the fury of the sacrilegious, by composition 
 with the rebels when they took the city, 
 during the many incursions of Scotch and 
 others. It is a most entire magnificent 
 piece of Gothic architecture. The screen 
 before the choir is of stone carved with 
 flowers, running work, and statues of the 
 old kings. Many of the monuments are 
 very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in 
 these days and at this time, they showed 
 
 1 [Tickhill is in Yorkshire.] 2 By Fairfax. 
 
 me a Bible and Common Prayer -Book 
 covered with crimson velvet, and richly 
 embossed with silver gilt ; also a service 
 for the altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, 
 basin, ewer, chalices, patins, etc., with a 
 gorgeous covering for the altar and pulpit, 
 carefully preserved in the vestry, in the 
 hollow wall whereof rises a plentiful 
 spring of excellent water. 1 I got up to 
 the tower, whence we had a prospect 
 towards Durham, and could see Ripon, 
 part of Lancashire, the famous and fatal 
 Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, 
 and all the environs of that admirable 
 
 country. Sir Ingoldsby has here a 
 
 large house, gardens, and tennis-court ; 
 also the King's house and church near the 
 castle, which was modernly fortified with a 
 palisade and bastions. The streets are 
 narrow and ill - paved, the shops like 
 London. 
 
 i8tk. We went to Beverley, a large 
 town with two stately churches, St. John's 2 
 and St. Mary's, not much inferior to the 
 best of our Cathedrals. Here a very old 
 woman showed us the monuments, and, 
 being above 100 years of age, spake the 
 language of Queen Mary's days, in whose 
 time she was born ; she was widow of a 
 sexton who had belonged to the church a 
 hundred years. 
 
 Hence, we passed through a fenny but 
 rich country to Hull, situate like Calais, 
 modernly and strongly fortified with three 
 block-houses of brick and earth. It has a 
 good market-place and harbour for ships. 
 Famous also (or rather infamous) is this 
 town for Hotham's refusing entrance to 
 his Majesty. The water-house is worth 
 seeing. And here ends the south of York- 
 shire. 
 
 19M. We pass the Humber, an arm of 
 the sea about two leagues' breadth. The 
 weather was bad, but we crossed it in a 
 good barge to Barton, the first town in 
 that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh 
 ground till we came to Brigg, famous for 
 the plantations of liquorice, and then had 
 brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much 
 resembling Salisbury Plain. Lincoln is an 
 old confused town, very long, uneven, 
 steep, and ragged ; formerly full of good 
 houses, especially churches and abbeys. 
 
 1 [St. Peter's Well.] - [Beverley Minster. 1 
 
182 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 The Minster almost comparable to that 
 of York itself, abounding with marble 
 pillars, and having a fair front (herein was 
 interred Queen Eleanor, the loyal and 
 loving wife who sucked the poison out of 
 her husband's wound) ; the abbot founder, 
 with rare carving in the stone ; the great 
 bell, or Tom, as they call it. I went up 
 the steeple, from whence is a goodly 
 prospect all over the country. The soldiers 
 had lately knocked off most of the brasses 
 from the grave-stones, so as few inscrip- 
 tions were left ; they told us that these 
 men went in with axes and hammers, and 
 shut themselves in, till they had rent and 
 torn off some barge-loads of metal, not 
 sparing even the monuments of the dead ; 
 so hellish an avarice possessed them : 
 besides which, they exceedingly ruined the 
 city. 
 
 Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two 
 inches high, comely, middle - aged, and 
 well-proportioned, who kept a very neat 
 and clean ale - house, and got most by 
 people's coming to see her on account of 
 her height. 
 
 20th August. From hence we had a 
 most pleasant ride over a large heath open 
 like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a pretty 
 town, so well situated on the side of a 
 bottom which is large and at a distance 
 environed with ascending grounds, that for 
 pleasure I consider it comparable to most 
 inland places of England ; famous is the 
 steeple for the exceeding height of the 
 shaft, which is of stone. 1 
 
 About eighteen miles south, we pass by 
 a noble seat, and see Boston at a distance. 
 Here, we came to a parish of which the 
 parson hath tithe ale. 
 
 Thence through Rutland, we brought 
 night to Horninghold, 2 from whence I set 
 out on this excursion. 
 
 227td. I went a setting and hawking, 
 where we had tolerable sport. 
 
 2$th. To see Kirby, a very noble house 
 of my Lord Hatton's, in Northampton- 
 shire, built a la moderne ; the garden and 
 stables agreeable, but the avenue ungrace- 
 ful, and the seat naked : returned that 
 evening. 
 
 1 [" Its a long tyme w n you see a great part of 
 the Steeple before you come to see the Church or 
 town it Lies so in a bottom," says Celia Fiennes 
 {Diary (1689-94), 1888, p. 54).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 179.] 
 
 27th. Mr Allington preached an excel- 
 lent discourse from Romans vi. 19. This 
 was he who published those bold sermons 
 of the members warring against the mind, 
 or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied to 
 the wicked regicides ; for which he was 
 ruined. We had no sermon in the after- 
 noon. 
 
 30M. Taking leave of my friends, who 
 had now feasted me more than a month, I, 
 with my wife, etc., set our faces towards 
 home, and got this evening to Peter- 
 borough, passing by a stately palace 
 (Thorpe) of St. John's (one deep in the 
 blood of our good King), 1 built out of the 
 ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. 
 The church is exceeding fair, full of monu- 
 ments of great antiquity. Here lie Queen 
 Catherine, the unhappy wife of Henry 
 VIII., and the no less unfortunate Mary, 
 Queen of Scots. 2 On the steeple, we 
 viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much 
 inclosed and drained with infinite expense, 
 and by many sluices, cuts, mounds, and 
 ingenious mills, and the like inventions ; 
 at which the city and country about it con- 
 sisting of a poor and very lazy sort of 
 people, were much displeased. 
 
 Peterborough is a handsome town, and 
 hath another well-built church. 
 
 31st. Through part of Huntingdonshire, 
 we passed that town, fair and ancient, 
 a river running by it. The country 
 about it so abounds in wheat that, when 
 any King of England passes through 
 it, they have a custom to meet him with 
 a hundred ploughs. 
 
 This evening, to Cambridge ; and went 
 first to St. John's College, well built of 
 brick, and library, which I think is the 
 fairest of that University. One Mr. Ben- 
 
 1 [Oliver St. John, 1598-1673, Chief Justice, and 
 at this time Commissioner of Treasury. In 1660 he 
 was punished for his share in the King's execution 
 by perpetual incapacitation from office. He left 
 England in 1662.] 
 
 2 ["There was also y e 2 monuments of 2 queens, 
 y l of Catherine of Spain being Harry y e 8 th3 
 queen, and also y e statute of y e queen Mary of 
 Scotts that was both beheaded and buried here, 
 and there is also y° picture of an old man w tl1 y e 
 Inscription of y e whole matter, w ch was y c Sexton 
 and dugg both their graves " {Diary of Celia 
 Fiennes (1689-94), 1888, p. 132). Mary was be- 
 headed at Fotheringhay Castle, February 8, 1587, 
 after a nineteen years' captivity. James I. re- 
 moved her body to Henry VII. 's Chapel in West- 
 minster Abbey. ] 
 
1654] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 183 
 
 lowes 1 has given it all the ornaments of 
 pietra- commessa? whereof a table and 
 one piece of perspective is very fine ; other 
 trifles there also be of no great value, 
 besides a vast old song-book, or Service, 
 and some fair manuscripts. There hangs 
 in the library the picture of John Williams, 
 Archbishop of York, sometime Lord 
 Keeper, my kinsman, and their great 
 benefactor. 3 
 
 Trinity College is said by some to be the 
 fairest quadrangle of any university in 
 Europe ; but in truth is far inferior to that 
 of Christ Church, in Oxford ; the hall is 
 ample and of stone, the fountain in the 
 quadrangle is graceful, the chapel and 
 library fair. There they showed us the 
 prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, 
 but the passage and emblem which they 
 would apply to our late King, is manifestly 
 relating to the Swedish ; in truth, it seems 
 to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however 
 the title may bespeak strange revelations. 
 There is an office in manuscript with fine 
 miniatures, and some other antiquities, 
 given by the Countess of Richmond, mother 
 of Henry VII., 4 and the before-mentioned 
 Archbishop Williams, 5 when Bishop of 
 Lincoln. The library is pretty well stored. 
 The Greek Professor had me into another 
 large quadrangle cloistered and well-built, 
 and gave us a handsome collation in his 
 own chamber. 
 
 Thence to Caius, and afterwards to 
 King's College, where I found the chapel 
 altogether answered expectation, especially 
 the roof all of stone, which for the flatness 
 of its laying and carving may, I conceive, 
 
 1 Edward Benlowes, 1603-76, a writer of verses 
 esteemed in his time, born of a good family in 
 Essex, and inheritor of a good estate, which he 
 wasted by improvident liberality, and continual 
 buying of curiosities, as Wood says. [His chief 
 work, Theophila; or, Love's Sacrifice, 1652, was 
 illustrated by Hollar and others. It is included in 
 vol. i. of Saintsbury's Caroline Poets, 1905, pp. 
 
 3°5-47 2 -] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 58.] 
 
 3 [John Williams, 1582 - 1650 ; Archbishop of 
 York, 1641-50. He had been Lord Keeper and 
 Bishop of Lincoln in 162 1. He helped to build 
 the library of St. John's College. He was said to 
 be " a perfect diocese in himself, bishop, dean, 
 prebendary, and parson."! 
 
 4 [Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Richmond 
 and Derby, 1443-1509. She instituted^ " Lady 
 Margaret " foundations at both Universities ; and 
 Christ's (1505) and St. John's (1508) Colleges at 
 Cambridge.] 5 [See note 3 above.] 
 
 vie with any in Christendom. The con- 
 tignation of the roof 1 (which I went upon), 
 weight, and artificial joining of the stones 
 is admirable. The lights are also very 
 fair. In one aisle lies the famous Dr. 
 Collins, so celebrated for his fluency in the 
 Latin tongue. 2 From this roof we could 
 descry Ely, and the encampment of Stur- 
 bridge fair now beginning to set up their 
 tents and booths ; 3 also Royston, New- 
 market, etc. , houses belonging to the King. 
 The library is too narrow. 
 
 Clare Hall is of a new and noble design, 
 but not finished. 
 
 Peter House, formerly under the govern- 
 ment of my worthy friend, Dr. John Cosin, 
 Dean of Peterborough ; 4 a pretty neat 
 college, having a delicate chapel. Next to 
 Sidney, a fine college. 
 
 Catherine Hall, though a mean structure, 
 is yet famous for the learned Bishop 
 Andrews, once Master. Emmanuel College, 
 that zealous house, where to the hall they 
 have a parlour for the Fellows. The 
 chapel is reformed, ab origine, built north 
 and south, and meanly erected, as is the 
 library. 
 
 Jesus College, one of the best built, but 
 in a melancholy situation. Next to Christ 
 College, a very noble erection, especially 
 the modern part, built without the 
 quadrangle towards the gardens, of exact 
 architecture. 
 
 The Schools are very despicable, and 
 Public Library but mean, though some- 
 what improved by the wainscoting and 
 books lately added by the Bishop Ban- 
 croft's library and MSS. They showed 
 us little of antiquity, only King James's 
 Works, being his own gift, and kept very 
 reverently. 
 
 The market-place is very ample, and 
 remarkable for old Hobson the pleasant 
 carrier's beneficence of a fountain. 5 But 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 60.] 
 
 2 [Samuel Collins, 1576-1651 ; Provost of King's 
 College, 1615 ; ejected in 1045 by puritans ; Regius 
 Professor of Divinity, Cambridge, 1617-51. He 
 wrote pamphlets against Bellarmin.] 
 
 3 [Sturbridge Fair was one of the three great 
 Fairs described in a proclamation of Charles I. , 
 " unto which there is usually extraordinary resort 
 out of all parts of the kingdom." Bartholomew 
 Fair (p. 146) and Southwark Fair (see J>ost, under 
 13th September, 1660) were the other two.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 154.] 
 
 5 A conduit it should rather be called. 
 
1 84 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1654 
 
 the whole town is situate in a low dirty 
 unpleasant place, the streets ill-paved, the 
 air thick and infected by the fens, nor are 
 its churches (of which St. Mary's is the 
 best) anything considerable in compare to 
 Oxford. 1 
 
 From Cambridge, we went to Audley- 
 End, 2 and spent some time in seeing that 
 goodly place built by Howard, Earl of 
 Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a 
 mixed fabric, betwixt antique and modern, 
 but observable for its being completely 
 finished, and without comparison is one of 
 the stateliest palaces in the kingdom. It 
 consists of two courts, the first very large, 
 winged with cloisters. The front has a 
 double entrance ; the hall is fair, but some- 
 what too small for so august a pile. The 
 kitchen is very large, as are the cellars 
 arched with stone, very neat and well 
 disposed ; these offices are joined by a 
 wing out of the way very handsomely. 
 The gallery is the most cheerful, and I 
 think one of the best in England ; a fair 
 dining-room, and the rest of the lodgings 
 answerable, with a pretty chapel. The 
 gardens are not in order, though well 
 inclosed. It has also a bowling-alley, a 
 noble, well-walled, wooded, and watered 
 park, full of fine collines and ponds : the 
 river glides before the palace, to which is 
 an avenue of lime-trees, but all this is 
 much diminished by its being placed in an 
 obscure bottom. For the rest, it is a 
 perfectly uniform structure, and shows 
 without like a diadem, by the decorations 
 of the cupolas and other ornaments on the 
 pavilions ; instead of rails and balusters, 
 there is a border of capital letters, as 
 was lately also on Suffolk-House, 3 near 
 Charing - Cross, built by the same Lord 
 Treasurer. 
 
 This house stands in the parish of Saffron 
 Walden, famous for the abundance of 
 
 1 As an Oxford man Evelyn was biassed. 
 
 2 [Audley End, Saffron Walden, Lord Bray- 
 brooke's seat in Essex. Henry Winstanley, the 
 architect, etched a set of Prospects of Audley End 
 in 1688, which he dedicated to James II. ; and in 
 1836, Richard, Lord Braybrooke, published a 4to 
 history of the house.] 
 
 3 Suffolk House, Charing Cross, afterwards 
 Northumberland House. At the funeral of Anne 
 of Denmark, a young man was killed by the fall 
 of the letter S from the coping of capital letters 
 here mentioned by Evelyn (Register of Burials 
 at St. Martin in the Fields, 1619). 
 
 saffron there cultivated, and esteemed the 
 best of any foreign country. 
 
 3rd Octobe?'. Having dined here, we 
 passed through Bishop Stortford, a pretty 
 watered town, and so by London, late 
 home to Sayes Court, after a journey of 
 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable 
 refreshment after my turmoil and building. 
 
 10th. To my brother at Wotton, who 
 had been sick. 
 
 14M. I went to visit my noble friend, 
 Mr. Hildeyard, 1 where I met that learned 
 gentleman, my Lord Aungier, 2 and Dr. 
 Stokes, 3 one of his Majesty's Chaplains. 
 
 l$th. To Betchworth Castle, 4 to Sir 
 Ambrose Browne, and other gentlemen of 
 my sweet and native country. 5 
 
 24th. The good old parson, Higham, 
 preached at Wotton Church : a plain 
 preacher, but innocent and honest man. 6 
 
 3 1st. My birthday, being the 34th year of 
 my age : blessing God for His providence, 
 I went to London to visit my brother. 
 
 23rd November. I went to London, to 
 visit my cousin Fanshawe, 7 and this day I 
 saw one of the rarest collections of agates, 
 onyxes, and intaglios, that I had ever seen 
 either at home or abroad, collected by a 
 conceited old hat-maker in Blackfriars, 
 especially one agate vase, heretofore the 
 great Earl of Leicester's. 
 
 2%th. Came Lady Langham, a kins- 
 woman of mine, to visit us ; also one 
 Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer, 
 after the Italian manner, of any in Eng- 
 land : he entertained us with his voice and 
 theorbo. 8 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 171. J 
 
 2 Gerald, eldest son of Sir Francis Aungier, 
 Master of the Rolls in 1609, and created Baron 
 Aungier of Longford in the Irish Peerage in 1621. 
 Gerald Aungier died in 1655, ar, d was succeeded 
 by his nephew, Francis, afterwards created Earl 
 of Longford (1677). 
 
 3 [Dr. David Stokes, 1591-1669. At this date, 
 as a royalist, he had been despoiled of all his prefer- 
 ments. But he was reinstated at the Restoration.] 
 
 4 [Betchworth or Beechworth Castle, on the 
 W. bank of the Mole, near Dorking, the seat, in 
 Evelyn's day, of Sir Ambrose Browne, who was 
 made a baronet in 1627. It now forms part of 
 the Deepdene. Of the Castle itself only ruins 
 remain. The estate was bought in 1727 by 
 Abraham Tucker ("Edward Search"), author of 
 the Light of Nature Pursued, 1768-78. He died 
 there in 1774.] 
 
 5 [Query, — county, i.e. Surrey.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 172.] 7 [See ante, p. 165.] 
 
 8 [Henry Cooke, d. 1672, at this date a teacher 
 of music, and afterwards Choirmaster of the Chapel 
 
1655] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 i85 
 
 yd December. Advent Sunday. There 
 being no Office at the church but extem- 
 porary prayers after the Presbyterian way, 
 for now all forms were prohibited, and 
 most of the preachers were usurpers, I 
 seldom went to church upon solemn feasts; 
 but, either went to London, where some 
 of the orthodox sequestered Divines did 
 privately use the Common Prayer, admin- 
 ister sacraments, etc., or else I procured 
 one to officiate in my house ; wherefore, on 
 the 10th, Dr. Richard Owen, the seques- 
 tered minister of Eltham, 1 preached to my 
 family in my library, and gave us the holy 
 Communion. 
 
 2$th. Christmas-day. No public offices 
 in churches, but penalties on observers, 
 so as I was constrained to celebrate it at 
 home. 
 
 1654-5 : 1st January. Having with my 
 family performed the public offices of the 
 day, and begged a blessing on the year I 
 was now entering, I went to keep the rest 
 of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, 
 at Woodcote. 
 
 19th. My wife was brought to bed of 
 another son, being my third, but second 
 living. Christened 2 on the 26th by the 
 name of John. 
 
 2%th. A stranger preached from Colos- 
 sians iii. 2, inciting our affections to the 
 obtaining heavenly things. I understood 
 afterwards that this man had been both 
 Chaplain and Lieutenant to Admiral Penn, 3 
 using both swords ; whether ordained or 
 not I cannot say ; into such times were we 
 fallen ! 
 
 24M February. I was showed a table- 
 clock whose balance was only a crystal 
 ball, sliding on parallel wires, without 
 being at all fixed, but rolling from stage 
 to stage till falling on a spring concealed 
 from sight, it was thrown up to the utmost 
 channel again, made with an imperceptible 
 declivity, in this continual vicissitude of 
 motion prettily entertaining the eye every 
 
 Royal. He had been a Captain in the Royalist 
 Army.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 147-] 
 
 2 At St. Nicholas, Deptford. See Lysons, En- 
 virons of London, 2nd ed., 1811, vol. i. part 2, p. 
 
 462. 
 
 3 [Admiral, afterwards Sir William Penn, 1621-70. 
 He fought under Blake in the first Dutch war, and 
 captured Jamaica in this year. He was made a 
 Commissioner of the Navy at the Restoration, and 
 his name often occurs in Pepys.] 
 
 half-minute, and the next half giving pro- 
 gress to the hand that showed the hour, 
 and giving notice by a small bell, so as in 
 120 half minutes, or periods of the bullet's 
 falling on the ejaculatory spring, the clock- 
 part struck. This very extraordinary piece 
 (richly adorned) had been presented by 
 some German Prince to our late King, and 
 was now in possession of the Usurper ; 
 valued at ^200. 
 
 2nd March. Mr. Simpson, the King's 
 jeweller, showed me a most rich agate 
 cup, of a scallop-shape, and having a 
 figure of Cleopatra at the scroll, her body, 
 hair, mantle, and veil, of the several 
 natural colours. It was supported by a 
 half Mark Antony, the colours rarely 
 natural, and the work truly antique, but I 
 conceived they were of several pieces ; had 
 they been all of one stone, it were invalu- 
 able. 
 
 18M. Went to London, on purpose to 
 hear that excellent preacher, Dr. Jeremy 
 Taylor, 1 on Matt. xiv. 17, showing what 
 were the conditions of obtaining eternal 
 life : also, concerning abatements for un- 
 avoidable infirmities, how cast on the 
 accounts of the cross. On the 31st, I 
 made a visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to 
 confer with him about some spiritual 
 matters, using him thenceforward as my 
 ghostly father. I beseech God Almighty 
 to make me ever mindful of, and thankful 
 for, His heavenly assistances ! 
 
 2nd April. This was the first week, that, 
 my uncle Pretyman 2 being parted with 
 his family from me, I began housekeeping, 
 till now sojourning with him in my own 
 house. 
 
 gth. I went to see the great ship 3 newly 
 built by the Usurper, Oliver, carrying 
 ninety -six brass -guns, and 1000 tons 
 burden. In the prow was Oliver on 
 horseback, trampling six nations under 
 foot, a Scot, Irishman, Dutchman, French- 
 man, Spaniard, and English, as was easily 
 made out by their several habits. A Fame 
 held a laurel over his insulting head ; the 
 word, God with us. 
 
 l$th. I went to London with my family, 
 to celebrate the feast of Easter. Dr. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 173.] 2 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 3 The Charles. See, for an account of the sub- 
 sequent burning of this' figure-head, Pepys's Diary 
 under 14th December, 1663. (See also post, p. 256.) 
 
1 86 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1655 
 
 Wild 1 preached at St. Gregory's ; the 
 ruling Powers conniving at the use of the 
 Liturgy, etc., in this church alone. In 
 the afternoon, Mr. Pearson (since Bishop 
 of Chester) 2 preached at Eastcheap, but was 
 disturbed by an alarm of fire, which about 
 this time was very frequent in the City. 
 
 2gt/i May. I sold Preston :j to Colonel 
 Morley. 
 
 Vjth June. There was a collection for 
 the persecuted churches and Christians in 
 Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. 
 
 yd July. I was showed a pretty terrella, 4 
 described with all the circles, and showing 
 all the magnetic deviations. 
 
 i^t/i. Came Mr. Pratt, 5 my old acquaint- 
 ance at Rome, also Sir Edward Hales, 6 Sir 
 Joseph Tufton, with Mr. Seymour. 
 
 1st August. I went to Dorking, to see 
 Mr. Charles Howard's amphitheatre, 
 garden, or solitary recess, 7 being fifteen 
 acres environed by a hill. He showed us 
 divers rare plants, caves, and an elabora- 
 tory. 
 
 10th. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, 8 
 who had begun to build, and alter the 
 gardens much. He showed me many rare 
 pictures, particularly the Moor on horseback ; 
 Erasmus, as big as the life, by Holbein ; a 
 Madonna, in miniature, by Oliver ; but, 
 above all, the skull carved in wood, by 
 Albert Diirer, for which his father was 
 offered ^100 ; also Albert's head, by him- 
 self, with divers rare agates, intaglios, and 
 other curiosities. 
 
 21st. I went to Reigate, to visit Mrs. 
 
 1 [Dr. George Wild, 1610-65, afterwards Bishop 
 of Derry, 1661-65. He had kept up a religious 
 meeting for the royalists in Fleet Street.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 170. Dr. Pearson was at this date 
 weekly preacher at St. Clement's, Eastcheap, where 
 he was delivering the discourses afterwards form- 
 ing his book on the Creed.] 
 
 • [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 4 [A terrestrial globe made of loadstone, to illus- 
 tiate the direction of magnetic force on the earth. 
 It had been in vogue since the publication of 
 William Gilbert's De Magncte Magtieticisque Cor- 
 poribus, 1600 (Globe Pepys, p. 231 «.).] 
 
 5 [Roger (afterwards Sir Roger) Pratt, 1620-84, 
 the architect of Clarendon House (see post, under 
 15th October, 1664).] 
 
 6 [Sir Edward Hale?, Bart., d. 1695, titular Earl 
 of Tenterden (see post, under 13th December, 
 1688).] 
 
 7 [Deepdene. It now belongs to Lord Henry 
 Francis Pelham Clinton Hope, but is at present 
 rented by Lady William Beresford.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 
 Cary, at my Lady Peterborough's, in an 
 ancient monastery well in repair, 1 but the 
 park much defaced ; the house is nobly 
 furnished. The chimney-piece in the 
 great chamber, carved in wood, was of 
 Henry VIII., and was taken from a house 
 of his in Bletchingley. At Reigate, was 
 now the Archbishop of Armagh, the learned 
 James Ussher, 2 whom I went to visit. Pie 
 received me exceeding kindly. In dis- 
 course with him, he told me how great 
 the loss of time was to study much the 
 Eastern languages; that, excepting Hebrew, 
 there was little fruit to be gathered of ex- 
 ceeding labour ; that, besides some mathe- 
 matical books, the Arabic itself had little 
 considerable ; that the best text was the 
 Hebrew Bible ; that the Septuagint was 
 finished in seventy days, but full of errors, 
 about which he was then writing ; that St. 
 Jerome's was to be valued next the Hebrew; 
 also that the seventy translated the Penta 
 teuch only, the rest was finished by others ; 
 that the Italians at present understood but 
 little Greek, and Kircher was a mounte- 
 bank ; 3 that Mr. Selden's best book was 
 his Titles of Honour ; 4 that the Church 
 would be destroyed by sectaries, who 
 would in all likelihood bring in Popery. 
 In conclusion, he recommended to me the 
 study of philology, above all human 
 studies ; and so, with his blessing, I took 
 my leave of this excellent person, and 
 returned to Wotton. 
 
 27th. I went to Box Hill, to see 
 those rare natural bowers, cabinets, and 
 shady walks in the box-copses : hence we 
 walked to Mickleham, and saw Sir F. 
 Stidolph's seat, 5 environed with elm trees 
 and walnuts innumerable, and of which 
 last he told us they received a considerable 
 revenue. Here are such goodly walks and 
 hills shaded with yew 6 and box, as render 
 
 1 [Reigate Priory. The modern house which 
 now occupies the site, and still preserves the 
 chimney-piece mentioned by Evelyn, belongs to 
 the family of Lady Henry Somerset. But Manning 
 says the chimney-piece came from Nonsuch.] 
 
 ■ [See ante, p. 166.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 67.] 4 [1614.] 
 
 5 [Norbury Park, then in possession of Sir Francis 
 Stidolph, and afterwards the well-known residence 
 of Mme. D'Arblay's friend, Mr. William Locke. 
 The " walnuts innumerable " were all cut down by 
 an intermediate owner, Anthony Chapman. The 
 house now belongs to Leopold Salomons, Esq., J. P.] 
 
 6 [The famous Druids' Grove, dating from Domes- 
 day Book.] 
 
I6SS] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 i87 
 
 the place extremely agreeable, it seeming 
 from these evergreens to be summer all the 
 winter. 
 
 2%th August. Came that renowned 
 mathematician, Mr. Oughtred, to see me, 
 I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, 
 being now very aged. 1 Amongst other 
 discourse, he told me he thought water to be 
 the philosopher's first matter, and that he 
 was well persuaded of the possibility of their 
 elixir ; he believed the sun to be a material 
 fire, the moon a continent, as appears by the 
 late selenographers ; he had strong appre- 
 hensions of some extraordinary event to 
 happen the following year, from the calcula- 
 tion of coincidence with the diluvian period ; 
 and added that it might possibly be to con- 
 vert the Jews by our Saviour's visible appear- 
 ance, or to judge the world ; and therefore, 
 his word was, Parate in occursum ; ~ he 
 said original sin was not met with in the 
 Greek Fathers, yet he believed the thing ; 
 this was from some discourse on Dr. Taylor's 
 late book, 3 which I had lent him. 
 
 1 6th September. Preached at St. Gregory's 
 one Darnel, on Psalm iv. 4, concerning the 
 benefit of self-examination ; more learning 
 in so short a time as an hour I have seldom 
 heard. 
 
 17th. Received ^"2600 of Mr. Hurt, for 
 the Manor of Warley Magna, in Essex, 
 purchased by me some time since. 4 The 
 taxes were so intolerable that they eat up 
 the rents, etc., surcharged as that county 
 had been above all others during our un- 
 natural war. 
 
 igth. Came to see me Sir Edward 
 Hales, 5 Mr. Ashmole, 6 Mr. Harlakenton, 
 and Mr. Thornhill : and, the next day, I 
 visited Sir Henry Newton, at Charlton, 7 
 where I met the Earl of Winchelsea, 8 and 
 Lady Beauchamp, daughter to the Lord 
 Capel. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid 
 at home to catechise and instruct my family, 
 those exercises universally ceasing in the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 172. He was eighty.] 
 
 2 [Evelyn subsequently referred to this warning 
 in a letter to Jeremy Taylor.] 
 
 a [The Golden Grove, anon., 1655.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 149.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 186.] 
 
 6 [Elias Ashmole, 1617-92, the antiquary (see 
 post, under 17th September, 1657).] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 167.] 
 
 8 [Heneage Finch, second Earl of Winchelsea, 
 d. 1689 (see post, under 18th June, 1660).] 
 
 parish churches, so as people had no 
 principles, and grew very ignorant of even 
 the common points of Christianity ; all 
 devotion being now placed in hearing 
 sermons and discourses of speculative and 
 notional things. 
 
 26th. I went to see Colonel Blount's 
 subterranean warren, 1 and drank of the 
 wine of his vineyard, which was good for 
 little. 
 
 3irf \sic\. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to 
 treat with me about his vast design of a 
 mole 2 to be made for ships in part of my 
 grounds at Sayes Court. 
 
 yd November. I had accidentally dis- 
 course with a Persian and a Greek con- 
 cerning the devastation of Poland by the 
 late incursion of the Swedes. 
 
 27th. To London, about Sir -Nicholas 
 Crisp's designs. 
 
 I went to see York House and gardens, 
 belonging to the former great Buckingham, 
 but now much ruined through neglect. 3 
 
 Thence to visit honest and learned Mr. 
 Hartlib, 4 a public - spirited and ingenious 
 person, who had propagated many useful 
 things and arts. He told me of the castles 
 which they set for ornament on their stoves 
 in Germany (he himself being a Lithuanian, 
 as I remember), which are furnished with 
 small ordnance of silver on the battlements, 
 out of which they discharge excellent 
 perfumes about the rooms, charging them 
 with a little powder to set them on fire, 
 and disperse the smoke : and, in truth, no 
 more than need, for their stoves are 
 sufficiently nasty. He told me of an ink 
 that would give a dozen copies, moist 
 sheets of paper being pressed on it, and 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 168.] 
 
 2 [Sir Nicholas Crisp, customs farmer, 1599-1666. 
 See post, under 16th January, 1662. He was made 
 a baronet this year.] 
 
 3 [George Villiers, first Duke of the second crea- 
 tion, 1592-1628. York House at this date belonged 
 to General Fairfax, to whom it had been given by 
 Cromwell ; and Fairfax's daughter Mary married 
 the second and last Duke of the Villiers family in 
 September, 1657. The first Duke's names and titles 
 are still preserved in the buildings erected on the site 
 of York House : as George Street, Villiers Street, 
 Duke Street, Of Alley (now York Place), and 
 Buckingham Street.] 
 
 4 [Samuel Hartlib, d. 1670, a Pole and friend of 
 Milton. He wrote a Discotirs of Husbandrie used 
 in Brabant and Flanders, 1652, etc. His life was 
 written in 1865, with a bibliography and notices of 
 his works, by Henry Dircks. He is often mentioned 
 in Evelyn's Correspondence .] 
 
1 88 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1656 
 
 remain perfect ; and a receipt how to take 
 off any print without the least injury to the 
 original. This gentleman was master of 
 innumerable curiosities, and very communi- 
 cative. I returned home that evening by 
 water, and was afflicted for it with a cold 
 that had almost killed me. 
 
 This day, came forth the Protector's 
 Edict, or Proclamation, prohibiting all 
 ministers of the Church of England from 
 preaching or teaching any schools, 1 in 
 which he imitated the apostate, Julian ; 
 with the decimation of all the royal party's 
 revenues throughout England. 2 
 
 141/1 December. I visited Mr. Hobbes, 3 
 the famous philosopher of Malmesbury, 
 with whom I had been long acquainted in 
 France. 
 
 Now were the Jews admitted. 4 
 
 25/V2. There was no more notice taken 
 of Christmas-day in churches. 
 
 I went to London, where Dr. Wild 5 
 preached the funeral sermon of Preaching, 
 this being the last day ; after which Crom- 
 well's proclamation was to take place, that 
 none of the Church of England should dare 
 either to preach, or administer Sacraments, , 
 teach schools, etc., on pain of imprison- 
 ment, or exile. So this was the mourn- 
 fullest day that in my life I had seen, or 
 the Church of England herself, since the 
 Reformation ; to the great rejoicing of both 
 Papist and Presbyter. 6 So pathetic was 
 his discourse, that it drew many tears from 
 the auditory. Myself, wife, and some of 
 our family, received the Communion ; God 
 make me thankful, who hath hitherto pro- 
 vided for us the food of our souls as well 
 as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our dis- 
 tressed Church, and bring back the cap- 
 tivity of Zion ! 
 
 1 ["This," says the Annals of England, 1876, 
 p. 451, was " the only resource left to the majority." 
 See infra, 25th December.] 
 
 2 [This was extended to all who had ever borne 
 arms for the King.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 160.] 
 
 4 [They had been expelled in 1290. But Evelyn 
 is wrong in saying they were now admitted. No 
 formal decision was come to, but they began to 
 settle again in small numbers in 1657.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 186.] 
 
 6 The text was 2 Cor. xiii. 9. That, however 
 persecution dealt with the Ministers of God's Word, 
 they were still to pray for the flock, and wish their 
 perfection, as it was [for] the flock to pray for and 
 assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul. — 
 Evelyns Note. 
 
 1655-6 : $th January. Came to visit 
 me my Lord Lisle, son to the Earl of 
 Leicester, 1 with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of 
 the Usurper's council ; Mr. John Hervey, 2 
 and John Denham, the poet. 3 
 
 181/1. Went to Eltham 4 on foot, being 
 a great frost, but a mist falling as I re- 
 turned, gave me such a rheum as kept me 
 within doors near a whole month after. 
 
 $th February. Was showed me a pretty 
 perspective and well represented in a tri- 
 angular box, the great Church of Haarlem 
 in Holland, to be seen through a small 
 hole at one of the corners, and contrived 
 into a handsome cabinet. It was so rarely 
 done, that all the artists and painters in 
 town flocked to see and admire it. 
 
 \oth. I heard Dr. Wilkins 5 preach 
 before the Lord Mayor in St. Paul's, show- 
 ing how obedience was preferable to sacri- 
 fice. He was a most obliging person, who 
 had married the Protector's sister, 6 and 
 took great pains to preserve the Univer- 
 sities from the ignorant sacrilegious com- 
 manders and soldiers, who would fain have 
 demolished all places and persons that 
 pretended to learning. 
 
 nth. I ventured to go to Whitehall, 
 where of many years I had not been, and 
 found it very glorious and well furnished, 
 as far as I could safely go, and was glad to 
 find they had. not much defaced that rare 
 piece of Henry VII., etc., done on the 
 walls of the King's prrjjy chamber. 
 
 14M. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son 
 of Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, 
 where I renewed my acquaintance with my 
 Lord Bruce, my fellow-traveller in Italy. 7 
 
 iqtk. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see 
 Barlow, the famous painter of fowls, beasts, 
 and birds. 8 
 
 dfth March. This night I was invited by 
 Mr. Roger L'Estrange** to hear the incom- 
 
 1 [Site, post, under 27th August, 1678.] 
 
 2 [John Hervey, 1616-79, afterwards Treasurer to 
 Catherine of Braganza, and patron of Abraham 
 Cowley.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 173.] J [Seepost, p. 189.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 175.] 
 
 6 [Robina French, nie Cromwell.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 122.] 
 
 8 Francis Barlow, 1626-1702, "once eminent in 
 the line of Fowl and Beast." His most famous 
 work is his Fables of yEsop, 1665. He occasion- 
 ally painted portraits. Evelyn mentions him in 
 ch. iv. of Scuiptura. 
 
 9 Afterwards knighted ; and licenser of the press 
 to Charles II., and James II., in whose Parlia- 
 
i6 5 6] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 .189 
 
 parable Lubicer on the violin. His variety 
 on a few notes, and plain ground, with 
 that wonderful dexterity, was admirable. 
 Though a young man, yet so perfect and 
 skilful, that there was nothing, however 
 cross and perplexed, brought to him by 
 our artists, which he did not play off at 
 sight with ravishing sweetness and improve- 
 ments, to the astonishment of our best 
 masters. In sum, he played on the single 
 instrument a full concert, so as the rest 
 flung down their instruments, acknowledg- 
 ing the victory. As to my own particular, 
 I stand to this hour amazed that God 
 should give so great perfection to so young 
 a person. There were at that time as 
 excellent in their profession as any were 
 thought to be in Europe, Paul Wheeler, 
 Mr. Mell, and others, till this prodigy 
 appeared. I can no longer question the 
 effects we read of in David's harp to charm 
 evil spirits, or what is said some particular 
 notes produced in the passions of Alexander, 
 and that King of Denmark. 
 
 \2th April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. 
 Robert Boyle (that excellent person and 
 great virtuoso), 1 Dr. Taylor, and Dr. 
 Wilkins, dined with me at Sayes Court, 
 when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my 
 rare burning-glass. In the afternoon, we 
 all went to Colonel Blount's, to see his 
 new-invented ploughs. 2 
 
 22nd. Came to see [me?] Mr. . Henshaw 
 and Sir William Paston's son, since Earl of 
 Yarmouth. 3 Afterwards, I went to see his 
 
 ment he was returned for Winchester. He was 
 the author of several works, chiefly translations ; 
 was a fierce and reckless advocate of high Church 
 principles ; and established a newspaper called the 
 Public Intelligencer, which he afterwards changed 
 to London Gazette, and ultimately to a paper 
 called the Observator, 1681-87 (see post, under 
 7th May, 1685). Pepys (17th December, 1664) 
 describes him as "a man of fine conversation," 
 " most courtly, and full of compliments/' ; but 
 seeking his society for the purpose of obtaining 
 news. He was known among the courtiers as 
 "Oliver's fiddler," owing to a report, which he 
 strenuously denied, that he had once played the 
 violin in the presence of the Protector. Queen 
 Mary had a great antipathy to him, and, by re- 
 arranging the letters of his name, gave him the 
 appellation of "Lying Strange Roger." He was 
 born in 16 16, and died in 1704. 
 
 1 The Hon. Robert Boyle, 1627-01, fifth surviv- 
 ing son of Richard Boyle, styled ''the great Earl 
 of Cork," and a distinguished natural philosopher 
 and chemist. His name occurs frequently in the 
 Diary. 2 [See ante, p. 168.] 
 
 3 Sir Robert Paston, Bart., 1631-83, who obtained 
 
 Majesty's house at Eltham, both palace 
 and chapel in miserable ruins, the noble 
 woods and park destroyed by Rich, the 
 rebel. 1 
 
 6th May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, 
 a young French Sorbonnist, a proselyte, to 
 converse with Dr. Taylor ; they fell to 
 dispute on original sin, in Latin, upon a 
 book newly published by the Doctor, who 
 was much satisfied with the young man. 
 Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned 
 antiquary and herald. 2 Returning, I was 
 showed the three vast volumes of Father 
 Kircher's, Obeliscus Pamphilius and ALgyp- 
 tiacus ; in the second volume, I found the 
 hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent 
 to him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Hen- 
 shaw, whom he mentions ; I designed it 
 from the stone itself brought me to Venice 
 from Cairo by Captain Powell. 3 
 
 7///. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed 
 on him to propose Monsieur le Franc to 
 the Bishop that he might have Orders, I 
 having sometime before brought him to a 
 full consent to the Church of England, 
 her doctrine and discipline, in which he 
 had till of late made some difficulty ; so 
 he was this day ordained both deacon and 
 priest by the Bishop of Meath. I paid 
 the fees to his lordship, who was very poor 
 and in great want ; to that necessity were 
 our clergy reduced ! In the afternoon, I 
 met Alderman Robinson, to treat with 
 Mr. Papillion about the marriage of my 
 cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine. 
 
 8t/i. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins, at 
 Whitehall, when I first met with Sir P. 
 Neile, 4 famous for his optic glasses. 
 Greatorex, 5 the mathematical-instrument 
 maker, showed me his excellent invention 
 to quench fire. 
 
 12M. Was published my Essay on 
 
 great reputation as a Royalist commander, and for 
 whose services Charles II., in 1673, created him 
 Viscount Yarmouth. In 1679 he was made first 
 Earl of Yarmouth. 
 
 1 [Nathaniel Rich, d. 1701, to whom it had been 
 sold by the Parliament.] 
 
 2 [William (afterwards Sir William) Dugdale, 
 1605-86, at this date Chester Herald, and co-author 
 of the first volume of Monasticon Angliconum.] 
 
 3 See ante, p. 126. 
 
 •* [Sir Paul Neile, of White Waltham, Berks, 
 eldest son of Richard Neile, Archbishop of York. 
 Pepys mentions him under 10th January, 1662, 
 and elsewhere.] 
 
 5 [Ralph Greatorex, d. 1712? He was also well 
 known to Pepys.] 
 
190 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 li6st 
 
 Lucretius, 1 with innumerable errata by 
 the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who under- 
 took the correction of the press in my 
 absence. Little of the Epicurean philo- 
 sophy was then known amongst us. 
 
 28M A/ay. I dined with Nieuport, the 
 Holland Ambassador, who received me 
 with extraordinary courtesy. I found him 
 a judicious, crafty, and wise man. He 
 gave me excellent cautions as to the 
 danger of the times, and the circumstances 
 our nation was in. I remember the 
 observation he made upon the ill success 
 of our former Parliaments, and their 
 private animosities, and little care of the 
 public. 
 
 Came to visit me the old Marquis of 
 Argyll (since executed), 2 Lord Lothian, 
 and some other Scotch noblemen, all 
 strangers to me. Note, the Marquis took 
 the turtle-doves in the aviary for owls. 
 
 The Earl of Southampton 3 (since Treas- 
 urer) and Mr. Spencer, 4 brother to the 
 Earl of Sunderland, came to see my 
 garden. 
 
 1 " An Essay on the First Book of T. Lucretius 
 Cams de Rerum Natura. Interpreted and made 
 English verse by J Evelyn, Esq. London, 1656." 
 The frontispiece was designed by Mrs. Evelyn, 
 and engraved by Hollar. Prefixed to the copy in 
 the library at Wotton House, is this note in 
 Evelyn's own handwriting : " Never was book so 
 abominably misus'd by printer : never copy so 
 negligently surveied by one who undertooke to 
 looke over the proofe-sheetes with all exactnesse 
 and care, namely Dr. Triplet, well knowne for his 
 abilitie, and who pretended to oblige me in my 
 absence, and so readily offer'd himselfe. This 
 good yet I receiv'd by it, that publishing it vainely, 
 its ill successe at the printer's discourag'd me with 
 troubling the worlde with the rest." 
 
 2 Archibald Campbell, eighth Earl, 1598-1661. 
 He was created Marquis of Argyll in 1641. In 
 the subsequent troubles he took his place at the 
 head of the Scotch Covenanters, and did so much 
 damage to Charles I.'s cause, that the wrong was 
 not considered to have been expiated by his sub- 
 sequent proclamation of Charles II. Evelyn, who 
 knew him well, calls him a " turbulent " man ; 
 and at the Restoration, having been convicted of 
 high treason, he had his head struck off by the 
 Maiden, at the market-cross of Edinburgh, on the 
 27th of May, 1661. 
 
 3 Thomas Wriothesley, fourth Earl of South- 
 ampton, 1607-67, a distinguished royalist, who at 
 the Restoration was appointed Lord High Treas- 
 urer. His second daughter, Rachel, was the wife 
 of the patriot, Lord William Russell. He married 
 three times ; but dying without male issue, all his 
 honours became extinct. Evelyn enjoyed much of 
 his hospitality, and characterises him as a person 
 of extraordinary parts, but a valetudinarian. 
 
 4 [Sec />ost, under 15th July, 1669. J 
 
 *]th July. I began my journey to see 
 some parts of the north-east of England : 
 but the weather was so excessive hot and 
 dusty, I shortened my progress. 
 
 8t/i. To Colchester, a fair town, but 
 now wretchedly demolished by the late 
 siege, 1 especially the suburbs, which were all 
 burnt, but were then repairing. The town 
 is built on a rising ground, having fair 
 meadows on one side, and a river with a 
 strong ancient castle, said to have been 
 built by King Coilus, father of Helena, 
 mother of Constantine the Great, of whom 
 I find no memory save at the pinnacle of 
 one of their wool-staple houses, where is 
 a statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly 
 carved. The walls are exceeding strong, 
 deeply trenched, and filled with earth. It 
 has six gates, and some watch-towers, and 
 some handsome churches. But what was 
 showed us as a kind of miracle, at the 
 outside of the Castle, [was] the wall where 
 Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, 
 those valiant and noble persons who so 
 bravely behaved themselves in the last 
 siege, 2 were barbarously shot, murdered 
 by Ireton in cold blood, after surrendering 
 on articles ; having been disappointed of 
 relief from the Scotch army, which had 
 been defeated with the King at Worcester. 
 The place was bare of grass for a large 
 space, all the rest of it abounding with 
 herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged 
 and factious town, now swarming with 
 sectaries. Their trading is in cloth with 
 the Dutch, and baize and says 3 with 
 Spain ; it is the only place in England 
 where these stuffs are made unsophisticated. 
 It is also famous for oysters 4 and eringo 
 root, growing hereabout, and candied for 
 sale. 
 
 1 [In 1648. See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 165.] 
 
 3 ["'They [the Dutch] were the first that 
 brought into the nation the art of making those 
 slight stuffs call'd Bays and Says and other Linnen 
 and Woollen-cloths of the same kind.' This manu- 
 facture principally settled at Colchester and its 
 vicinity, and for a long period flourished exceed- 
 ingly " (Beck's Draper s Dictionary, s.v. The 
 quotation is said to be from the History of Britain, 
 1670. Pepys refers to " Colchester baize " {Diary, 
 24th February, 1667).] 
 
 •* [Which are also referred to by Celia Fiennes. 
 "This town is remarkable ... for Exceeding 
 good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye 
 my Curiosity to Eate them on y c place I paid 
 dear " {Diary (1689-94), 1888, p. 116).] 
 
1656] 
 
 THE DIAR y, OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 191 
 
 Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, 
 having a very fair church, finely situated, 
 the valley well watered. Here, I met 
 with Dr. Stokes, a young gentleman, but 
 an excellent mathematician. This is a 
 clothing town, as most are in Essex, but 
 lies in the unwholesome hundreds. 
 
 Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the 
 sweetest, most pleasant, well-built towns 
 in England. It has twelve fair churches, 
 many noble houses, especially the Lord 
 Devereux's ; a brave quay, and com- 
 modious harbour, being about seven miles 
 from the main ; an ample market-place. 
 Here was born the great Cardinal Wolsey, 
 who began a palace here, which was not 
 finished. 
 
 I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers T 
 here in prison ; a new fanatic sect, of 
 dangerous principles, who show no respect 
 to any man, magistrate, or other, and seem 
 a melancholy, proud sort of people, and ex- 
 ceedingly ignorant. One of these was said 
 to have fasted twenty days ; but another, 
 endeavouring to do the like, perished on the 
 10th, when he would have eaten, but could 
 not. 2 
 
 lothjuly. I returned homeward, passing 
 again through Colchester ; and, by the 
 way, near the ancient town of Chelms- 
 ford, saw New Hall, built in a park by 
 Henry VII. and VIII. , and given by 
 Queen Elizabeth to the Earl of Sussex, 
 who sold it to the late great Duke of 
 Buckingham, and since seized on by 
 Oliver Cromwell (pretended Protector). 3 
 It is a fair old house, built with brick, 
 low, being only of two stories, as the 
 manner then was ; the gate-house better ; 
 the court, large and pretty ; the staircase, 
 of extraordinary wideness, with a piece 
 
 1 [They began in England about 1646 ; and 
 received their name in 1650 from Justice Bennet of 
 Derby, "who," says Fox, "was the first that 
 called us Quakers, because I bid them tremble at 
 the name of the Lord." In 1655, Fox " gave forth a 
 paper to those that made a scorn of trembling and 
 quaking" (George Fox's Journal, abridged by 
 P. L. Parker, 1903, pp. 48, 147) .] 
 
 2 [Fox certainly fasted. I fasted much " — he 
 writes in 1647 ; and in 1653, " about this time I 
 was in a fast for about ten days " (Journal ut 
 supra, pp. 11, in).] 
 
 3 [Cromwell exchanged New Hall for Hampton 
 Court. At the Restoration, it reverted to the 
 second Duke of Buckingham, who sold it to 
 Monck. In 1892, it was a Roman Catholic 
 Nunnery.] 
 
 representing Sir Francis Drake's action 
 in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece ; 
 the galleries are trifling ; the hall is noble ; 
 the garden a fair plot, and the whole seat 
 well accommodated with water ; but, 
 above all, I admired the fair avenue 
 planted with stately lime trees, in four 
 rows, for near a mile in length. It has 
 three descents, which is the only fault, 
 and may be reformed. There is another 
 fair walk of the same at the mall and 
 wilderness, with a tennis - court, and 
 pleasant terrace towards the park, which 
 was well stored with deer and ponds. 
 
 1 \th. Came home by Greenwich ferry, 
 where I saw Sir J. Winter's 2 project of 
 charring sea-coal, to burn out the sulphur, 
 and render it sweet. He did it by burn- 
 ing the coals in such earthen pots as 
 the glass -men melt their metal, so firing 
 them without consuming them, using a bar 
 of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar 
 has a hook at one end, that so the coals 
 being melted in a furnace with other crude 
 sea-coals under them, may be drawn out 
 of the pots sticking to the iron, whence 
 they are beaten off in great half-exhausted 
 cinders, which being re -kindled, make a 
 clear pleasant chamber - fire, deprived of 
 their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What 
 success it may have, time will discover. 
 
 yd August. I went to London, to re- 
 ceive the Blessed Sacrament, the first time 
 the Church of England was reduced to a 
 chamber and conventicle; so sharp was the 
 persecution. The parish -churches were 
 filled with sectaries of all sorts, blasphe- 
 mous and ignorant mechanics usurping the 
 pulpits everywhere. 2 Dr Wild 3 preached 
 in a private house in Fleet -street, where 
 we had a great meeting of zealous Chris- 
 tians, who were generally much more 
 devout and religious than in our greatest 
 prosperity. In the afternoon, I went to 
 the French Church in the Savoy, 4 where I 
 heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechise, and 
 so returned to my house. 
 
 m 1 [Sir John Winter, 1600-73, secretary to Hen- 
 rietta Maria, and an active Royalist, employed his 
 leisure in the production of coke, for which, after 
 the Restoration, he obtained a monopoly.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 172.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 186.] 
 
 4 [From this it would seem that there was a 
 " French Church in the Savoy " before that estab- 
 lished by Charles II. in 1661 (Wheatley and Cun- 
 ningham's London, 1891, iii. 218).] 
 
192 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1657 
 
 20th August. Was a confused election 
 of Parliament called by the Usurper. 
 
 Jtk September. I went to take leave of 
 my excellent neighbour and friend, Sir H. 
 Newton and lady, 1 now going to dwell at 
 Warwick ; and Mr. Needham, 2 my dear and 
 learned friend, came to visit me. 
 
 14M. Now was old Sir Henry Vane 3 
 sent to Carisbrooke Castle, in Wight, for a 
 foolish book he published ; the pretended 
 Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, 
 and sending many to prison. 
 
 2nd October. Came to visit me my 
 cousin Stephens, 4 and Mr. Pierce 5 (since 
 Head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a 
 learned minister of Brington, in Northamp- 
 tonshire, and Captain Cooke, 6 both excel- 
 lent musicians. 
 
 2nd November. There was now nothing 
 practical preached, or that pressed reforma- 
 tion of life, but high and speculative points 
 and strains that few understood, which left 
 people very ignorant, and of no steady 
 principles, the source of all our sects and 
 divisions, for there was much envy and 
 uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy 
 amend it ! Now, indeed, that I went at 
 all to church, whilst these usurpers pos- 
 sessed the pulpits, was that I might not be 
 suspected for a Papist, and that, though 
 the minister was Presbyterianly affected, 
 he yet was as I understood duly ordained, 
 and preached sound doctrine after their 
 way, and besides was an humble, harmless, 
 and peaceable man. 
 
 25M December. I went to London, to 
 receive the Blessed Communion this holy 
 festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, 7 where I 
 rejoiced to find so full an assembly of 
 devout and sober Christians. 
 
 26M. I invited some of my neighbours 
 and tenants, according to custom, and to 
 preserve hospitality and charity. 
 
 2%th. A stranger preached on Luke 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 187.] 
 
 2 Jasper Needham, d. 1679, a physician of great 
 repute, and one of Evelyn's oldest friends (see/>ost, 
 under 4th November 1679). 
 
 3 [The younger, 1613-62. The old Sir Harry 
 Vane died in this year. The "foolish book," to 
 which Evelyn refers, was an able and fearless attack 
 on Cromwell's arbitrary government.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 178.] 
 
 5 [Dr. Thomas Pierce, 1622-91, President of Mag- 
 dalen College, Oxford, 1661-72 ; and Dean of Salis- 
 bury, 1675.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 184.] 7 [See ante, p. 191.] 
 
 xviii. 7, 8, on which he made a confused 
 discourse, with a great deal of Greek and 
 ostentation of learning, to but little purpose. 
 
 T£>th. Dined with me Sir William 
 Paston's son, 1 Mr. Henshaw, 2 and Mr. 
 Clayton. 3 
 
 31st. I begged God's blessing and 
 mercies for his goodness to me the past 
 year, and set my domestic affairs in order. 
 
 1656-7 : 1st January. Having prayed 
 with my family, and celebrated the anni- 
 versary, I spent some time in imploring 
 God's blessing [for] the year I was entered 
 into. 
 
 ytk. Came Mr. Matthew Wren 4 (since 
 secretary to the Duke, slain in the Dutch 
 war), eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now 
 a prisoner in the Tower ; a most worthy 
 and learned getleman. 
 
 iot/1. Came Dr. Joyliffe, 5 that famous 
 physician and anatomist, first detector of 
 the lymphatic veins ; also the old Marquis 
 of Argyll, and another Scotch Earl. 
 
 $th February. Dined at the Holland 
 Ambassador's ; 6 he told me the East India 
 Company of Holland had constantly a stock 
 of ^"400,000 in India, and forty-eight men- 
 of-war there : he spoke of their exact and 
 just keeping their books and correspond- 
 ence, so as no adventurer's stock could 
 possibly be lost, or defeated ; that it was a 
 vulgar error that the Hollanders furnished 
 their enemies with powder and ammuni- 
 tion for their money, though engaged in 
 a cruel war, but that they used to mer- 
 chandise indifferently, and were permitted 
 to sell to the friends of their enemies. He 
 laughed at our Committee of Trade, 7 as 
 composed of men wholly ignorant of it, and 
 how they were the ruin of commerce, by 
 gratifying some for private ends. 
 
 loth. I went to visit the Governor of 
 Havannah, a brave, sober, valiant Spanish 
 gentleman, taken by Captain Young of 
 Deptford, 8 when, after twenty years being 
 in the Indies, and amassing great wealth, 
 his lady and whole family, except two sons, 
 
 1 [Sir Robert (see ante, p. 189).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 56.] 
 
 a [See^ost, under 3rd July, 1677.] 
 
 4 [Matthew Wren, 1629-72 ; secretary to Claren- 
 don, 1660-67.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 190.] 
 
 7 [See post, under 28th February, 1671.] 
 
 8 [D. 1693.] 
 
1657] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 193 
 
 were burnt, destroyed, and taken within 
 sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, 
 and wife, perishing with immense treasure. * 
 One son, of about seventeen years old, with 
 his brother of one year old, were the only 
 ones saved. The young gentleman, about 
 seventeen, was a well-complexioned youth, 
 not olive-coloured ; he spake Latin hand- 
 somely, was extremely well bred, and 
 born in the Caraccas, 1000 miles south of 
 the equinoctial, near the mountains of 
 Potosi ; he had never been in Europe 
 before. The Governor was an ancient 
 gentleman of great courage, of the order of 
 St. Jago, sore wounded in his arm, and 
 his ribs broken ; he lost for his own share 
 ;£ 1 00,000 sterling, which he seemed to bear 
 with exceeding indifference, and nothing 
 dejected. After some discourse, I went 
 with them to Arundel House, where they 
 dined. They were now going back into 
 Spain, having obtained their liberty from 
 Cromwell. An example of human vicissi- 
 tude ! 
 
 14/^ February. To London, where I 
 found Mrs. Cary ; next day came Mr. 
 Mordaunt 2 (since Viscount Mordaunt), 
 younger son to the Countess of Peter- 
 borough, to see his mistress, bringing with 
 him two of my Lord of Dover's daughters : 3 
 so, after dinner, they all departed. 
 
 $t/i March. Dr. Rand, a learned phy- 
 sician, dedicated to me his version of 
 Gassendi's Vita Peireskii.* 
 
 1 [Waller refers to this (with variations) in his 
 poem Of a War with Spain, and Fight at Sea 
 ( Works, by Fen ton, 1744, p. 121).] 
 
 2 John Mordaunt, 1627-75, second son of John, 
 fifth Baron Mordaunt, and first Earl of Peter- 
 borough. He was a zealous Royalist ; an offence 
 for which he was tried, and, as Evelyn relates (see 
 post, under 31st May, 1658), acquitted by one vote 
 under the Commonwealth. Nevertheless, he still 
 exerted himself to bring back Charles II., who, in 
 1659, created him Baron Mordaunt of Reigate, 
 and Viscount Mordaunt of Avalon, in Somerset, 
 and appointed him Constable of Windsor Castle, 
 and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Surrey. 
 Many charges were afterwards brought against 
 him in connection with his command at Windsor 
 (see post, under 23rd November, 1666). With his 
 mother and his wife, Evelyn was extremely in- 
 timate, frequently mentioning both with enthusiasm ; 
 and taking an active part, as many passages of the 
 Diary will show, in the business affairs of the 
 family. 
 
 3 Henry Carey, fourth Baron Hunsdon, created 
 Viscount Rochford and Earl of Dover, d. 1668, had 
 three daughters — Mary, married to Sir Thomas 
 Wharton ; Judith ; and Philadelphia. 
 
 4 [" The Mirrour of True Nobility &> Gentility, 
 
 2$tk. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. 
 of Cases of Conscience, or Ductor Dubi- 
 tantium, now fitted for the Press. 1 
 
 The Protector Oliver, now affecting 
 kingship, is petitioned to take the title on 
 him by all his new-made sycophant lords, 
 etc. ; but dares not, for fear of the fanatics, 
 not thoroughly purged out of his rebel 
 army. 
 
 21 st April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer 2 
 of Hanmer, in Wales, to see me. I then 
 waited on my Lord Hatton, 3 with whom 
 I dined : at my return, I stepped into 
 Bedlam, where I saw several poor miserable 
 creatures in chains ; one of them was mad 
 with making verses. I also visited the 
 Charter-house, 4 formerly belonging to the 
 Carthusians, now an old neat fresh solitary 
 college for decayed gentlemen. It has a 
 grove, bowling-green, garden, chapel, and 
 a hall where they eat in common. I like- 
 wise saw Christ-church and Hospital, 5 a 
 very goodly Gothic building ; the hall, 
 school, and lodgings in great order for 
 bringing up many hundreds of poor children 
 of both sexes ; it is an exemplary charity. 
 There is a large picture at one end of the 
 hall, representing the governors, founders, 
 and the institution. 6 
 
 25M. I ha4 a dangerous fall out of the 
 coach in Covent Garden, going to my 
 brother's, but without harm ; the Lord be 
 praised ! 
 
 1st May. Divers soldiers were quartered 
 at my house ; but I thank God went away 
 the next day towards Flanders. 
 
 $th. I went with my cousin, George- 
 being Pierre Gassendi's Life of Nicolas Claude- 
 Fabri de Peiresc 'englished by W[illiam] Rand, 
 Doctor of Physick,' 1657." Gassendi's book was 
 first published at Paris in 1641. Rand's kinsman, 
 Dr. R. Rand, had attended Evelyn's mother (see 
 ante, p. 5).] 
 
 1 [The Ductor Dubitantium was not publishedl 
 until 1660.] 
 
 2 [Sir Thomas Hanmer, second Baronet, d. 1678.. 
 He had lived long in France, from which he had! 
 returned in 1652 or 1653. His portrait by Vandyck 
 (see post, under 24th January, 1685) was, in 1838, 
 in the possession of Sir H. Bunbury, Bart.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 149 «.] 
 
 4 [Purchased by Thomas Sutton of Camp's Castle 
 in 1611, and endowed by him as a Chanty under 
 the name of " the Hospital of King James."] 
 
 5 [Founded by Edward VI., 1553, now called the 
 Blue Coat School (see post, under 10th March, 
 1687).] 
 
 6 [Edward VI. granting the Charter ; long 
 erroneously attributed to Holbein.] 
 
 O 
 
194 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1657 
 
 Tuke, to see Baynards, 1 in Surrey, a house 
 of my brother Richard's, which he would 
 have hired. This is a very fair noble resi- 
 dence, built in a park, and having one of 
 the goodliest avenues of oaks up to it that 
 ever I saw : there is a pond 2 of 60 acres 
 near it ; the windows of the chief rooms are 
 of very fine painted glass. The situation 
 is excessively dirty and melancholy. 
 
 15M May. Lawrence, President of 
 Oliver's Council, and some other of his 
 Court - Lords, came in the afternoon to 
 see my garden and plantations. 
 
 yth June. My fourth son was born, 
 christened George (after my grandfather) ; 
 Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiated in the draw- 
 ing-room. 
 
 lZth. At Greenwich I saw a sort of 
 cat 3 brought from the East Indies, shaped 
 Land snouted much like the Egyptian 
 racoon, in the body like a monkey, and so 
 footed ; the ears and tail like a cat, only 
 the tail much longer, and the skin variously 
 ringed with black and white ; with the 
 tail it wound up its body like a serpent, 
 and so got up into trees, and with it would 
 wrap its whole body round. Its hair was 
 woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly 
 nimble, gentle, and purred as does the cat. 
 
 16th July. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's 
 recommendation, I went to Eltham, to 
 help one Moody, a young man, to that 
 living, by my interest with the patron. 
 
 6th August. I went to see Colonel 
 Blount, who showed me the application of 
 the waywiser 4 to a coach, exactly measur- 
 ing the miles, and showing them by an 
 index as we went on. It had three circles, 
 one pointing to the number of rods, another 
 to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the 
 sub-divisions of quarters ; very pretty and 
 useful. 
 
 10th. Our vicar, 5 from John xviii. 36, 
 declaimed against the folly of a sort of 
 
 1 It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhtirst 
 in Surrey, adjoining to Rudgwick in Sussex, in a 
 deep clay soil. The residence belonged formerly 
 to Sir Edward Bray, and afterwards to the Earl of 
 Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat 
 at West Clandon. It has now been restored. 
 
 2 [Vachery Water, — the reservoir of the Wey 
 and Arun Canal.] 
 
 3 This was probably the Lemur macaco of 
 Linnaeus, since well known. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 177. In this particular form, the 
 waywiser seems to have been called an adometer.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 171. His name was Thomas 
 Mallory.] 
 
 enthusiasts and desperate zealots, called the 
 Fifth- Monarchy -Men?- pretending to set 
 up the kingdom of Christ with the sword. 
 To this pass was this age arrived when we 
 had no King in Israel. 
 
 21st. P'ell a most prodigious rain in 
 London, and the year was very sickly in 
 the country. 
 
 1st September. I visited Sir Edmund 
 Bowyer,-at his melancholy seat at Camber- 
 well. He has a very pretty grove of oaks, 
 and hedges of yew in his garden, and a 
 handsome row of tall elms before his court. 
 <&J$t/iS Going to London with some 
 company*, we stept in to see a famous rope- 
 dancer, called the Turk? I saw even to 
 astonishment the agility with which hei 
 performed. He walked barefooted, taking 
 hold by his toes only of a rope almost per- 
 pendicular, and without so much as touch- 
 ing it with his hands ; he danced blindfold 
 on the high rope, and with a boy of twelve 
 years old tied to one of his feet about 
 twenty feet beneath him, 4 dangling as he 
 danced, yet he moved as nimbly as if it 
 had been but a feather. Lastly, he stood 
 on his head, on the top of a very high 
 mast, danced on a small rope that was 
 very slack, and finally flew down the per- 
 pendicular, on his breast, his head fore- 
 most, his legs and arms extended, with 
 divers other activities. — I saw the hairy 
 woman, 5 twenty years old, whom I had 
 before seen when a child. She was born 
 at Augsburg, in Germany. Her very eye- 
 
 1 [They regarded the protectorate of Cromwell 
 as inaugurating a Fifth Monarchy — Assyria, Persia, 
 Greece, and Rome being the other four — during 
 which Jesus Christ would reign visibly for a 
 thousand years. One of the "Characters" in 
 Butler's Genuine Remains, 1759, pp. 101-3, is that 
 of " A Fifth-Monarchy Man."] 
 
 2 [See post, under 17th July, 1667.] 
 
 3 Evelyn again mentions this tumbler in his 
 Numismata, 1697, under the name of the Fun- 
 amble Turk. [The rare print entitled " The sur- 
 prizing Equilibres on the Slack Rope by tin 
 Grand Turk Mahomed Caratha " possibly refers 
 to the same performer (Hodgkin's Rariora, i. 45).] 
 
 4 [This was the favourite feat of that Mme. 
 Violante who was the first instructress of Peg 
 Wofnngton, except that she had a child attached 
 to each foot.] 
 
 5 [Augustina Barbara Van Beck, nee Urselin, or 
 Ursler, b. 1629, living in 1668. There is a print of 
 her by Isaac Brunn, dated 1653, and another by 
 Hollar's pupil, R. Gaywood, executed about 1658. 
 Pepys also saw in Holborn, '21st December, 1668, 
 what was apparently a second "hairy woman," 
 Ursula Dyan.] 
 
1657] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 195 
 
 brows were combed upwards, and all her 
 forehead as thick and even as grows on 
 any woman's head, neatly dressed ; a very 
 long lock of hair out of each ear ; she had 
 also a most prolix beard, and moustachios, 
 with long locks growing on the middle of 
 her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the 
 colour of a bright brown, fine as well- 
 dressed flax. She was now married, and 
 told me she had one child that was not 
 hairy, nor were any of her parents, or 
 relations. She was very well shaped and 
 played well on the harpsichord. 
 
 I'jth September. To see Sir Robert 
 Needham, at Lambeth, a relation of mine ; 
 and thence to John Tradescant's museum, 1 
 in which the chiefest rarities were, in my 
 opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian, and 
 other nation's armour, shields, and weapons ; 
 some habits of curiously coloured, and 
 wrought feathers, one from the phenix 
 wing, as tradition goes. Other innumer- 
 able things there were, printed in his cata- 
 logue by Mr. Ashmole, to whom after the 
 death of the widow they are bequeathed, 
 and by him designed as a gift to Oxford. 2 
 
 igtk October. I went to see divers 
 gardens about London ; returning, I saw 
 at 'Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian rattle-snakes 
 alive, exceeding a yard in length, small 
 heads, slender tails, but in the middle 
 nearly the size of my leg ; when vexed, 
 swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, 
 as loud as a child's rattle ; this, by the 
 collision of certain gristly skins curiously 
 jointed, yet loose, and transparent as 
 parchment, by which they give warning; 
 a providential caution for other creatures 
 to avoid them. The Doctor tried their 
 biting on rats and mice, which they im- 
 
 1 The tombstone of the family in Lambeth 
 churchyard declares, that " Beneath this stone lie 
 John Tradescant, grandsire, father, and son." 
 They were all eminent gardeners, travellers, and 
 collectors of curiosities. The first two came into 
 this country in the reign of James I., and the 
 second and third were employed in the Royal 
 Gardens by Charles I. They had a house at 
 Lambeth, which, being filled with rarities of every 
 description, passed by the name of Tradescant's 
 Ark, and was much resorted to by the lovers of 
 the curious. It formed the foundation of the 
 Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, and a catalogue of 
 its contents was printed by the youngest John 
 Tradescant, in 1656, with the title of Musaum 
 Tradescantianum ; or, a Collection of Rarities, 
 Preserved at South Lambeth near London. The 
 elder died in 1637. 
 
 2 Seejost, under 23rd July, 1678. 
 
 mediately killed : but their vigour must 
 needs be much exhausted here, in another 
 climate, and kept only in a barrel of bran. 
 
 22?zd. To town, to visit the Holland 
 Ambassador, with whom I had now con- 
 tracted much friendly correspondence, useful 
 to the intelligence I constantly gave his 
 Majesty abroad. 
 
 261/1 November. I went to London, to 
 a court of the East India Company 1 on 
 its new union, in Merchant-Taylors' Hall, 
 where was much disorder by reason of 
 the Anabaptists, who would have the 
 adventurers obliged only by an engage- 
 ment, without swearing, that they still 
 might pursue their private trade ; but it 
 was carried against them. Wednesday 
 was fixed on for a General Court for 
 election of officers, after a sermon and 
 prayers for good success. The Stock re- 
 solved on was ^"800,000. 
 
 i'jth. I took the oath at the East 
 India House, subscribing ^500. 
 
 2nd December. Dr. Reynolds (since 
 Bishop of Norwich) - preached before the 
 company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, on 
 Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by the example 
 of Nehemiah, all the perfections of a trusty 
 person in public affairs, with many good 
 precepts apposite to the occasion, ending 
 with a prayer for God's blessing on the 
 company and the undertaking. 
 
 3rd. Mr. Gunning 3 preached on John 
 iii. 3, against the Anabaptists, showing the 
 effect and necessity of the sacrament of 
 baptism. This sect was now wonderfully 
 spread. 
 
 2$t/i. I went to London with my wife, 
 to celebrate Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning 
 preaching in Exeter chapel, on Micah vii. 
 2. Sermon ended, as he was giving us 
 the Holy * Sacrament, the chapel was 
 surrounded with soldiers, and all the 
 communicants and assembly surprised and 
 kept prisoners by them, some in the house, 4 
 others carried away. It fell to my share 
 to be confined to a room in the house, 
 
 1 [The East India Company was incorporated 
 by charter of 31st December, 1600. By further 
 charters it was confirmed, enlarged, and altered.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Edward Reynolds, 1599-1676 ; Bishop of 
 Norwich, 1661-76.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Peter Gunning, 1614-84 ; Bishop of Ely, 
 1675-84. During the Commonwealth he preached 
 at Exeter Chapel, Strand, which was attached to 
 Exeter House (see^ost, under 7th March, 1658).] 
 
 4 [/.c. Exeter House.] 
 
196 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1658 
 
 where yet I was permitted to dine with 
 the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, 
 Lady Hatton, and some others of quality 
 who invited me. In the afternoon, came 
 Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from 
 Whitehall, to examine us one by one ; 
 some they committed to the Marshal, 
 some to prison. When I came before 
 them, they took my name and abode, ex- 
 amined me why, contrary to the ordinance 
 made, that none should any longer observe 
 the superstitious time of the Nativity (so 
 esteemed by them), I durst offend, and 
 particularly be at Common Prayers, which 
 they told me was but the mass in English, 
 and particularly pray for Charles Stuart, 
 for which we had no Scripture. I told 
 them we did not pray for Charles Stuart, 
 but for all Christian Kings, Princes, and 
 Governors. They replied, in so doing we 
 prayed for the King of Spain, too, who 
 was their enemy and a Papist, with other 
 frivolous and ensnaring questions, and 
 much threatening ; and, finding no colour 
 to detain me, they dismissed me with much 
 pity of my ignorance. These were men of 
 high flight and above ordinances, and 
 spake spiteful things of our Lord's Nativity. 
 As we went up to receive the Sacrament, 
 the miscreants held their muskets against 
 us, as if they would have shot us at the 
 altar ; but yet suffering us to finish the 
 office of Communion, as perhaps not 
 having, instructions what to do, in case 
 they found us in that action. So I got 
 s home late the next day ; blessed be God ! 
 1657-8 : 2.7 th January. After six fits of 
 a quartan ague, with which it pleased God 
 to visit him, died my dear son, Richard, 1 
 to our inexpressible grief and affliction, 
 five years and three days old only, but at 
 that tender age a prodigy for wit and 
 understanding ; for beauty of body, a very 
 angel ; for endowment of mind, of in- 
 credible and rare hopes. To give only a 
 little taste of them, and thereby glory to 
 God, who " out of the mouths of babes and 
 jnfants does sometimes perfect his praises " : 
 at two years and a half old, he could 
 perfectly read any of the English, Latin, 
 French, or Gothic letters, pronouncing the 
 three first languages exactly. He had, 
 before the fifth year, or in that year, not 
 only skill to read most written hands, but 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 170.] 
 
 to decline all the nouns, conjugate the 
 verbs regular, and most of the irregular ; 
 learned out Pueritis, 1 got by heart almost 
 the entire vocabulary of Latin and French 
 primitives and words, could make congruous 
 syntax, turn English into Latin, and vice 
 versa, construe and prove what he read, 
 and did the government and use of 
 relatives, verbs, substantives, ellipses, and 
 many figures and tropes, and made a con- 
 siderable progress in Comemus' sjamta : 2 
 began himself to write legibly, and had a 
 strong passion for Greek.* The number of 
 verses he could recite was prodigious, and 
 what he remembered of the parts of plays, 
 which he would also act ; and when seeing 
 a Plautus in one's hand, he asked what 
 book it was, and, being told it was comedy, 
 and too difficult for him, he wept for 
 sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious 
 application of fables and morals ; for he 
 had read yEsop ; he had a wonderful dis- 
 position to mathematics, having by heart 
 divers propositions of Euclid that were 
 read to him in play, and he would make 
 lines and demonstrate them. As to his 
 piety, astonishing were his applications of 
 Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of 
 God ; he had learned all his Catechism 
 early, and understood the historical part of 
 the Bible and New Testament to a wonder, 
 how Christ came to redeem mankind, and 
 how, comprehending these necessaries him- 
 self, his godfathers were discharged of their 
 promise. 
 
 These and the like illuminations, far 
 exceeding his age and experience, con- 
 sidering the prettiness of his address and 
 behaviour, cannot but leave impressions 
 in me at the memory of him. When one 
 told him how many days a Quaker had 
 fasted, 3 he replied that was no wonder ; 
 for Christ had said that man should not 
 live by bread alone, but by the Word of 
 God. He would of himself select the 
 most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of 
 Job, to read to his maid during his sickness, 
 telling her, when she pitied him, that all 
 God's children must suffer affliction. He 
 
 1 [Cato's Precepts and Sc7itentice Pueriles, 
 1612.] 
 
 2 [The Janua Linguaruvi of the Moravian, 
 John Amos Comenius, 1592-1671, a celebrated 
 grammarian and Protestant divine. It was first 
 published in 1631, and went through many editions.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 191.J 
 
i6 5 8] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 197 
 
 declaimed against the vanities of the 
 world, before he had seen any. Often 
 he would desire those who came to see 
 him to pray by him, and a year before 
 he fell sick, to kneel and pray with him 
 alone in some corner. How thankfully 
 would he receive admonition ! how soon 
 be reconciled ! how indifferent, yet con- 
 tinually cheerful ! He would give grave 
 advice to his brother John, bear with his 
 impertinences, and say he was but a child. 
 If he heard of or saw any new thing, he 
 was unquiet till he was told how it was 
 made ; he brought to us all such difficulties 
 as he found in books, to be expounded. 
 He had learned by heart divers sentences 
 in Latin and Greek, which, on occasion, 
 he would produce even to wonder. He 
 was all life, all prettiness, far from morose, 
 sullen, or childish in anything he said or 
 did. The last time he had been at church 
 (which was at Greenwich), I asked him, 
 according to custom, what he remembered 
 of the sermon ; Two good things, Father, 
 said he, bommi gratice and bonum gloria, 
 with a just account of what the preacher said. 
 The day before he died, he called to me : 
 and, in a more serious manner than usual, 
 told me that for all I loved him so dearly, 
 I should give my house, land, and all my 
 fine things, to his brofher Jack, he should 
 have none of them ; and, the next morning, 
 when he found himself ill, and that I per- 
 suaded him to keep his hands in bed, he 
 demanded whether he might pray to God 
 with his hands unjoined ; and a little after, 
 whilst in great agony, whether he should 
 not offend God by using his holy name so 
 often calling for ease. What shall I say 
 of his frequent pathetical ejaculations 
 uttered of himself: " Sweet Jesus, save 
 me, deliver me, pardon my sins, let Thine 
 angels receive me ! ' So early knowledge, 
 so much piety and perfection ! But thus 
 God, having dressed up a saint fit for 
 Himself, would not longer permit him with 
 us, unworthy of the future fruits of this 
 incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a 
 child I never saw : for such a child I bless 
 God, in whose bosom he is ! May I and 
 mine become as this little child, who now 
 follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God 
 in a white robe, whithersoever He goes ; 
 even so, Lord Jesus, fiat voluntas lua ! 
 Thou gavest him to us, Thou hast taken 
 
 him from us, blessed be the name of the 
 Lord ! That I had anything acceptable 
 to Thee was from Thy grace alone, since 
 from me he had nothing but sin, but that 
 Thou hast pardoned ! blessed be my God 
 for ever, Amen. 
 
 In my opinion, he was suffocated by the 
 women and maids that attended him, and 
 covered him too hot with blankets as he 
 lay in a cradle, near an excessive hot fire 
 in a close room. I suffered him to be 
 opened, when they found that he was what 
 is vulgarly called liver-grown. I caused 
 his body to be coffined in lead, and 
 deposited on the 30th at eight o'clock that 
 night in the church at Deptford, ac- 
 companied with divers of my relations 
 and neighbours, among whom I distributed 
 rings with this motto : Dominus abstulit ; 
 intending, God willing, to have him trans- 
 ported with my own body to be interred 
 in our dormitory in Wotton Church, in my 
 dear native county of Surrey, and to lay 
 my bones and mingle my dust with my 
 fathers, if God be gracious to me, and make 
 me as fit for Him as this blessed child was. 
 The Lord Jesus sanctify this and all other 
 my afflictions, Amen. 
 
 Here ends the joy of my life, and for 
 which I go even mourning to the grave. i^*~ 
 
 i$th February. The afflicting hand of 
 God being still upon us, it pleased Him 
 also to take away from us this morning my 
 youngest son, George, now seven weeks 
 languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and 
 ending in a dropsy. 1 God's holy will be 
 done ! He was buried in Deptford church, 
 the 17th following. 
 
 2$th. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and 
 my brothers, with other friends, to visit 
 and condole with us. 2 
 
 *]th March. To London, to hear Dr. 
 Taylor in a private house* on Luke xiii. 
 23, 24. After the sermon, followed the 
 blessed Communion, of which I partici- 
 pated. In the afternoon, Dr. Gunning, at 
 Exeter House, expounding part of the Creed. 
 
 This had been the severest winter thaf 
 any man alive had known in England. 
 The crows' feet were frozen to their prey. 
 Islands of ice inclosed both fish and fowl 
 frozen, and some persons in their boats. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 194.] 
 
 2 [See Appendix II. for Jeremy Taylor's letter 
 of 17th February, 1658.] 
 
198 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1658 
 
 l$th May, was a public fast, to avert 
 an epidemical sickness, very mortal this 
 spring. 
 
 20th. I went to see a coach-race in 
 Hyde Park, and collationed in Spring 
 Garden. 1 
 
 23rd. Dr. Manton, 2 the famous Presby- 
 terian, preached at Covent Garden, on 
 Matthew vi. 10, showing what the kingdom 
 of God was, how [to] pray for it, etc. 
 
 There was now a collection for per- 
 secuted and sequestered Ministers of the 
 Church of England, whereof divers are in 
 prison. A sad day ! The Church now in 
 dens and caves of the earth. 
 
 31 tf. I went to visit my Lady Peter- 
 borough, whose son, Mr. Mordaunt, 
 prisoner in the Tower, was now on his 
 trial, and acquitted but by one voice ; s 
 but that holy martyr, Dr. Hewit, 4 was 
 condemned to die without law, jury, or 
 justice, but by a mock Council of State, 
 as they called it. A dangerous, treacher- 
 ous time ! 
 
 2nd June. An extraordinary storm of 
 hail and rain, the season as cold as winter, 
 the wind northerly near six months. 
 
 yd. A large whale was taken betwixt 
 my land abutting on the Thames and 
 Greenwich, which drew an infinite con- 
 course to see it, by water, horse, coach, 
 and on foot, from London, and all parts. 
 It appeared first below Greenwich at low 
 water, for at high water it would have 
 destroyed all the boats, but lying now in 
 shallow water encompassed with boats, 
 after a long conflict, it was killed with a 
 harping iron, struck in the head, out of 
 which spouted blood and water by two 
 tunnels ; and, after a horrid groan, it ran 
 quite on shore, and died. Its length was 
 fifty -eight feet, height sixteen; black- 
 skinned, like coach-leather ; very small 
 eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a 
 peaked snout, and a mouth so wide, that 
 divers men might have stood upright in it ; 
 no teeth, but sucked the slime only as 
 through a grate of that bone which we call 
 whale-bone ; the throat yet so narrow, as 
 would not have admitted the least of fishes. 
 The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 173.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Thomas Manton, 1620-77, Rector of St. 
 Paul's, Covent Garden, 1656-62.] 
 
 3 tSee ante, p. 193.] 4 [See ante, p. 172.] 
 
 downwards from the upper jaw, and are 
 hairy towards the ends and bottom within 
 side : all of it prodigious ; but in nothing 
 more wonderful than that an animal of so 
 great a bulk should be nourished only by 
 slime through those grates. 
 
 %th. That excellent preacher and holy 
 man, Dr. Hewit, was martyred for having 
 intelligence with his Majesty, through the 
 Lord Marquis of Ormonde. 1 
 
 gt/i. I went to see the Earl of North- 
 umberland's 2 pictures, whereof that of the 
 Venetian Senators 3 was one of the best of 
 Titian's, and another of Andrea del Sarto, 
 viz. a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an 
 Old Woman ; a St. Catherine of Da 
 Vinci, with divers portraits of Vandyck ; a 
 Nativity of Georgione ; the last of our 
 blessed Kings (Charles I.), and the Duke 
 of York, by Lely, a Rosary by the famous 
 Jesuits of Brussels, and several more. This 
 was in Suffolk House : the new front 
 towards the gardens is tolerable, were it 
 not drowned by a too massy and clumsy 
 pair of stairs of stone, without any neat 
 invention. 
 
 10th. I went to see the Medical Garden, 
 at Westminster, well stored with plants, 
 under Morgan, a very skilful botanist. 
 
 26M. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. 
 Owen. 
 
 yd July. To London, and dined with 
 Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, and Mr. Ash- 
 mole, founder of the Oxford repository of 
 rarities, 4 with divers doctors of physic and 
 virtuosos. 
 
 15M. Came to see my Lord Kilmorey 
 and Lady, Sir Robert Needham, Mr. 
 Offley, and two daughters of my Lord 
 Willoughby of Parham. 5 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 172. " His greatest crime " — says 
 Clarendon — " was collecting and sending money to 
 the King" (History 0/ the Rebellion, 1888, vi. 
 61).] 
 
 2 Algernon Percy, tenth Earl, 1602-68. Though 
 conspicuously opposed to Charles I. during the 
 Civil Wars, he promoted the Restoration. He 
 was one of our first collectors of pictures, and 
 his gallery at Suffolk, afterwards Northumber- 
 land House, in the Strand, now non-existent, was 
 greatly admired, not only by Evelyn, but by all 
 connoisseurs. 
 
 3 The Cornaro family. There is a print of it 
 engraved by Bernard Baron. 
 
 * [See ante, pp. 187 and T95.] 
 
 5 [Francis Willoughby, fifth Baron Willoughby 
 of Parham, 1613-66; Governor of Barbadoes, 
 1650-66.] 
 
1658] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 199 
 
 3rd August. Went to Sir John Evelyn 
 at Godstone. 1 The place is excellent, 
 but might be improved by turning some 
 offices of the house, and removing the 
 garden. The house being a noble fabric, 
 though not comparable to what was first 
 built by my uncle, who was master of all 
 the powder-mills. 
 
 5M. We went to Squerryes 2 to visit 
 my Cousin Leech, daughter to Sir John ; 
 a pretty, finely- wooded, well- watered seat, 
 the stables good, the house old, but con- 
 venient. 6t/i. Returned to Wotton. 
 
 \oth. I dined at Mr. Carew Ralegh's, 
 at Horsley, 3 son to the famous Sir Walter. 
 
 14//&. We went to Durdans 4 [at Epsom] 
 to a challenged match at bowls for ,£10, 
 which we won. 
 
 iSM. To Sir Ambrose Browne, at 
 Betchworth Castle, 5 in that tempestuous 
 wind which threw down my greatest trees 
 at Sayes Court, and did so much mischief 
 all over England. It continued the whole 
 night ; and, till three in the afternoon of 
 the next day, in the south-west, and 
 destroyed all our winter fruit. 
 
 yd September. Died that arch-rebel, 
 Oliver Cromwell, called Protector. 6 
 1 l6t/i. Was published my Translation of 
 St. Chrysostom on Education of Children, 
 which I dedicated to both my brothers, 
 to comfort them on the loss of their 
 children. 7 
 
 1 [Lee, or Leigh Place. In Godstone Church is 
 a monument of black and white marble to Evelyn's 
 uncle Sir John (d. 1643) anc ^ n ' s wife, Thomasine 
 Heynes. The Sir John of the above was his son, 
 who became a baronet in 1660, and died in 167 1 
 (see ante, p. 172).] 
 
 2 Squerryes Court, at Westerham, in Kent, the 
 seat of Sir William Leech, who had married Jane, 
 the daughter of Sir John Evelyn, d. 1643. 
 
 3 [West Horsley (see ante, p. 171 »•)■] 
 
 4 [The Durdans, south of Epsom, is now the 
 seat of the Earl of Rosebery. A modern house 
 has replaced the old one. When Evelyn wrote, 
 the Durdans was the residence of George, first 
 Earl of Berkeley. 1 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 184. This storm must have spared 
 the magnificent beeches and chestnuts still at 
 Betchworth.] 
 
 6 [He died at Whitehall ; and his body was 
 embalmed and removed to Somerset House, where 
 his effigy was for many days exhibited. His 
 public funeral was on 23rd November (see post, 
 under 22nd October, 1658).] 
 
 7 [*' The Golden Book of S* John Chrysostom, 
 concerning the Education of Children. Trans- 
 lated out of the Greek by J. E., Esq. London : 
 1659." The Preface, contains another account of 
 Richard Evelyn (ante, pp. 196-7). It is re- 
 
 21st. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley 
 Castle, invited me to dinner. 1 
 
 26th. Mr. King preached at Ashtead, 
 on Proverbs xv. 24 ; a Quaker would have 
 disputed with him. In the afternoon, we 
 heard Dr. Hacket (since Bishop of Lich- 
 field) 2 at Cheam, where the family of the 
 Lumleys lie buried. 
 
 27M. To Beddington, 3 that ancient seat 
 of the Carews, a fine old hall, but a scamb- 
 ling house, famous for the first orange- 
 gar.den in England, being now overgrown 
 trees, planted in the ground, and secured 
 in winter with a wooden tabernacle and 
 stoves. This seat is rarely watered, lying 
 low, and environed with good pastures. 
 The pomegranates bear here. To the 
 house is also added a fine park. Thence, 
 to Carshalton, excellently watered, and 
 capable of being made a most delicious 
 seat, being on the sweet downs, and a 
 champaign about it full planted with wal- 
 nut and cherry trees, which afford a con- 
 siderable rent. 
 
 Riding over these downs, and discoursing 
 with the shepherds, I found that digging 
 about the bottom near Sir Christopher 
 Buckle's, 4 near Banstead, divers medals 
 have been found, both copper and silver, 
 with foundations of houses, urns, etc. 
 Here, indeed, anciently stood a city of the 
 Romans. — See Antonine's Itinerary. 
 
 29th. I returned home, after ten weeks' 
 absence. 
 
 2nd October. I went to London, to re- v 
 ceive the Holy Sacrament. 
 
 On the 3rd, Dr. Wild 5 preached in a 
 private place on Isaiah i. 4, showing the 
 parallel betwixt the sins of Israel and 
 those of England. In the afternoon, Mr. 
 Hall 6 (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) 
 on 1 Cor. vi. 2, of the dignity of the Saints ; 
 a most excellent discourse. 
 
 printed in Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 
 103-140.] 
 
 1 [George Berkeley, first Earl of Berkeley, 
 1628-98.] 
 
 2 [Dr. John Hacket, 1592 -1670; Bishop of 
 Coventry and Lichfield, 1661-70.] 
 
 3 [Beddington House (see ante, p. 4).] 
 
 4 Not far from the course of the Roman Road 
 from Chichester, through Sussex, passing through 
 Ockley, and Dorking churchyard. Considerable 
 remains of a Roman building were found on Walton- 
 heath, south of this house. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 186.] 
 
 6 [Dr. George Hall, 1612-68, afterwards Bishop of 
 Chester, 1662-68.] 
 
20O 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1659 
 
 /\£h October. I dined with the Holland 
 Ambassador, at Derby House : returning, 
 I diverted to see a very white raven, bred 
 in Cumberland ; also a porcupine, of that 
 kind that shoots its quills, of which see 
 Claudian ; it was headed like a rat, the 
 fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like a 
 bear. 
 
 igt/i. I was summoned to London by 
 the Commissioners for new buildings ; 
 afterwards, to the Commission of Sewers ; 
 but because there was an oath to be taken 
 ■of fidelity to the Government as now con- 
 stituted without a King, I got to be ex- 
 cused, and returned home. 
 
 2.2nd. Saw the superb funeral of the 
 Protector. 1 He was carried from Somerset- 
 House in a velvet bed of state, drawn by 
 six horses, housed with the same ; the pall 
 held by his new Lords ; Oliver lying in 
 effigy, in royal robes, and crowned with a 
 crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king. 
 The pendants and guidons were carried 
 by the officers of the army ; the Imperial 
 banners, achievements, etc. , by the heralds 
 in their coats ; a rich caparisoned horse, 
 embroidered all over with gold ; a knight 
 of honour, armed cap-a-pie, and, after 
 all, his guards, soldiers, and innumerable 
 mourners. In this equipage, they pro- 
 ceeded to Westminster : but it was the 
 joy fullest funeral I ever saw ; for there 
 were none that cried but dogs, which the 
 soldiers hooted away with a barbarous 
 noise, drinking and taking tobacco in the 
 streets as they went. 
 
 I returned not home till the 17th Nov- 
 ember. 
 
 I was summoned again to London by 
 the Commissioners for new foundations 
 to be erected within such a distance of 
 London. 
 
 6th December. Now was published my 
 French Gardener? the first and best of the 
 
 1 [There must be a blunder here as to date. 
 Cromwell's public funeral, as already stated (see 
 ante, p. 199 «•), took place on the 23rd November. 
 He was buried in Henry VII.'s Chapel, West- 
 minster Abbey, at the east end of the middle 
 aisle.] 
 
 2 [The French Gardener: instructing' how to 
 cultivate all sorts of Fruit-trees and Herbes/or 
 the Garden, etc. From the French of M. de 
 Bonnefons, now transplanted into English by Philo- 
 cepos," 1658. The "Epistle Dedicatory " (to 
 Thomas Henshaw) is reprinted in the Miscel- 
 laneous Writings, 1825, pp. 97-98.] 
 
 kind that introduced the use of the olitory 
 garden l to any purpose. 
 
 23rd. I went with my wife to keep 
 Christmas at my cousin, George Tuke's, 
 at Cressing Temple, in Essex. 2 Lay that 
 night at Brentwood. 
 
 25M. Here was no public service, but 
 what we privately used. I blessed God 
 for His mercies the year past ; and, 1st 
 January, begged a continuance of them. 
 Thus, for three Sundays, by reason of the 
 incumbent's death, here was neither pray- 
 ing nor preaching, though there was a 
 chapel in the house. 
 
 1658-9 : ljth January. Our old vicar 
 preached, taking leave of the parish in a 
 pathetical speech, to go to a living in the 
 City. 3 
 
 2Afth March. I went to London, to speak 
 to the patron, Alderman Cutler, 4 about 
 presenting a fit pastor for our destitute 
 parish-church. 
 
 $th April. Came the Earl of Northamp- 
 ton 5 and the famous painter, Mr. Wright, 6 
 to visit me. 
 
 \oth. One Mr. Littler, 7 being now pre- 
 sented to the living of our parish, preached 
 on John vi. 55, a sermon preparatory to 
 the Holy Sacrament. 
 
 25M. A wonderful and sudden change 
 in the face of the public ; the new Pro- 
 tector, Richard, slighted ; several pre- 
 tenders and parties strive for the Govern- 
 ment : all anarchy and confusion ; Lord 
 have mercy on us ! 
 
 $th May. I went to visit my brother in 
 London ; and, next day, to see a new 
 opera, 8 after the Italian way, in recitative 
 
 1 [Kitchen garden (olitorius).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 3 [St. Michael, Crooked Lane (see ante, p. 194.] 
 
 4 [John Cutler, 1608-93, a f terwarci s Sir John, an 
 eminent, but miserly citizen of London. Pope 
 handles him severely in his Epistle to Lord 
 Bathurst "On the Use of Riches ," 1732, ii. 315-35- 
 (See post, under 25th February, 1672).] 
 
 5 [James, third Earl of Northampton, d. 1681.] 
 
 6 Joseph Michael Wright, d. c. 1700, who painted 
 the twelve Judges in Guildhall, after the great fire. 
 A long account of this artist is given in Wal pole's 
 Anecdotes of Painting, and there is a famous por- 
 trait by him of Hobbes in the National Portrait 
 Gallery. See also post, under 3rd October, 1662. 
 
 7 [The Rev. Robert Littler, or Lytler, presented 
 to the living by Sir John Cutler.] 
 
 8 Probably that by Sir William Davenant, in 
 which the cruelty of the Spaniards in Peru was 
 exhibited with all the adjuncts of instrumental and 
 vocal music, and elaborate scenery. 
 
1659] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 201 
 
 music and scenes, much inferior to the 
 Italian composure and magnificence ; but 
 it was prodigious that in a time of such 
 public consternation such a vanity should 
 be kept up, or permitted. I, being engaged 
 with company, could not decently resist 
 the going to see it, though my heart smote 
 me for it. 
 
 yth May. Came the Ambassador of 
 Holland and his Lady to visit me, and 
 staid the whole afternoon. 
 
 12th. I returned the visit, discoursing 
 much of the revolutions, etc. 
 
 igth. Came to dine with me my Lord 
 Galloway and his son, a Scotch Lord and 
 learned : also my brother and his Lady, 
 Lord Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, 
 and the famous singer, Mrs. Knight, 1 and 
 other friends. 
 
 23rd. I went to Rookwood, 2 and dined 
 with Sir William Hickes, where was a 
 great feast and much company. It is a 
 melancholy old house, environed with trees 
 and rooks. 
 
 26th. Came to see me my Lord George 
 Berkeley, Sir William Ducie, and Sir 
 George Pott's son of Norfolk. 
 
 29M. The nation was now in extreme 
 confusion and unsettled, between the 
 Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Church 
 of England breathing as it were her last ; 
 so sad a face of things had overspread us. 
 
 jthjune. To London, to take leave of 
 my brother, and see the foundations now 
 laying for a long street 3 and buildings in 
 Hatton Garden, designed for a little town, 
 lately an ample garden. 
 
 1 st September. I communicated to Mr. 
 Robert Boyle, son to the Earl of Cork, 4 
 
 1 Afterwards one of Charles II.'s mistresses. 
 
 2 A house in Leyton in Essex, better known by 
 the name of Ruckholt [rook-wood in Saxon], built 
 by one Parvis, a former owner of the estate ; but 
 a new house was afterwards erected near the site 
 of the former by the family of Hickes, of whom 
 William (d. 1680) was created a baronet in 1619. 
 Charles II. was entertained here one day when 
 he was hunting in Waltham forest, on which 
 occasion he knighted William, the son of the 
 Baronet. [Ruckholt was pulled down in 1757 
 (Wright and Bartlett's Essex, ii. 498). It had then 
 been "for some years an auxiliary place of amuse- 
 ment for the Summer to the established Theatres 
 [of London]" {Gentleman 's Magazine, July, 1814, 
 
 p. n).] 
 
 3 [Hatton Garden. It was originally called 
 Hatton Street, and occupied the site of Sir 
 Christopher Hatton's garden.] 
 
 4 [See ante i p. 189 ; and for the letter in question, 
 
 my proposal for erecting a philosophic and 
 mathematic college. 
 
 15M. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, 1 a 
 very learned gentleman, son to my Lord 
 Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. 
 Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since 
 Duke of Norfolk. 2 
 
 30th. I went to visit Sir William Lucie 3 
 and Colonel Blount, 4 where I met Sir 
 Henry Blount, the famous traveller and 
 water-drinker. 5 
 
 10th October. I came with my wife and 
 family to London : took lodgings at the 
 Three Feathers, in Russell Street, Covent 
 Garden, for the winter, my son being very 
 unwell. 
 
 nth. Came to visit me Mr. William 
 Coventry 6 (since Secretary to the Duke), 
 son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty 
 gentleman. 
 
 The Army now turned out the Parlia- 
 ment. We had now no government in 
 the nation ; all in confusion ; no magistrate 
 either owned or pretended, but the soldiers, 
 and they not agreed. God Almighty have 
 mercy on, and settle us ! 
 
 ijth. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel- 
 house, who gave me a fair onyx set in gold, 
 and showed me his design of a palace 
 there. 
 
 21st. A private fast was kept by the 
 Church of England Protestants in town, to 
 beg of God the removal of His judgments, 
 with devout prayers for His mercy to our 
 calamitous Church. 
 
 yth November. Was published my bold 
 Apology for the King' 1 in this time of 
 
 which is dated 3rd September, 1659, Appendix 
 
 1 William, afterwards third Lord Brereton, d, 
 1679, an accomplished and able man, who assisted 
 Evelyn in establishing the Royal Society. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 
 3 [Query, — Ducie (see above, 26th May).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 168.] 
 
 5 Sir Henry Blount, 1602-82. After travelling for 
 some years, he published, in 1636, A Voyage to the 
 Levant, with Observations concerning the Modern 
 Condition 0/ the Turks, which passed through 
 many editions, and is reprinted in the " Harleian 
 Collection." In 1640 he was knighted. 
 
 6 [Afterwards (1665) Sir William Coventry 
 (1628-86). He was Secretary to the Duke of York 
 from 1660-67.] 
 
 7 [An Apology for the Royal Party, written in 
 a Letter to a person 0/ the late Council of State, 
 by a Lover of Peace and of his Country. With 
 a Touch at the pretended " Plea for the Army," 
 1659. It ' s reprinted in Evelyn's Miscellaneous 
 Writings, 1825, pp. 169-92.] 
 
202 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1660 
 
 danger, when it was capital to speak or 
 write in favour of him. It was twice 
 printed ; 1 so universally it took. 
 
 9th November. We observed our solemn 
 Fast for the calamity of our Church. 
 
 12th. I went to see the several drugs for 
 the confection of treacle, dioscordium, and 
 other electuaries, which an ingenious 
 apothecary had not only prepared and 
 ranged on a large and very long table, but 
 covered every ingredient with a sheet of 
 paper, on which was very lively painted 
 the thing in miniature, well to the life, 
 were it plant, flower, animal, or other 
 exotic drug. 
 
 1 $th. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. 
 He did in a manner acknowledge that his 
 nation mind only their own profit, do 
 nothing out of gratitude, but collaterally 
 as it relates to their gain, or security ; and 
 therefore the English were to look for 
 nothing of assistance to the banished King. 
 This was to me no very grateful discourse, 
 though an ingenuous confession. 
 
 iS7/z. Mr. Gunning 2 celebrated the 
 wonted Fast, and preached on Phil. ii. 
 12, 13. 
 
 24/7*. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] 3 
 invited us to the forty-first wedding-day 
 feast, where was much company of friends. 
 
 26th. I was introduced into the acquaint- 
 ance of divers learned and worthy persons, 
 Sir John Marsham, 4 Mr. Dugdale, 5 Mr. 
 Stanley, 6 and others. 
 
 gt/i December. I supped with Mr. 
 Gunning, it being our fast -day, Dr. 
 Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, 
 Dr. Henchman, 7 Dr. Wild, 8 and other 
 devout and learned divines, firm con- 
 fessors, and excellent persons. Note : 
 Most of them since made bishops. 
 
 \oth. I treated privately with Colonel 
 Morley, 9 then Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 
 1 [There were three editions in the same year.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 195.] 3 [See ante, p. 199.] 
 
 4 [Sir John Marsham of Cuxton, Kent, 1602-85, 
 writer on chronology. His Chronictts Canon 
 was published in 1672. He is said to have been 
 the first to make the Egyptian antiquities 
 intelligible.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 6 [Brother to the Earl of Derby, and afterwards 
 killed in a duel (see post, under 19th February, 
 1686).] 
 
 7 [Dr. Humphrey Henchman, 1592-1675, after- 
 wards Bishop of Salisbury and London.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 199.] 
 
 9 Colonel Herbert Morley, 1616-67 (see ante, p. 
 
 and in great trust and power, concerning 
 delivering it to the King, and the bringing 
 of him in, to the great hazard of my life, 
 but the Colonel had been my school- 
 fellow, and I knew would not betray me. 
 
 12th. I spent in public concerns for his 
 Majesty, pursuing the point to bring over 
 Coloney Morley, and his brother-in-law, 
 Fay, Governor of Portsmouth. 
 
 l&th. Preached that famous divine, Dr. 
 Sanderson l (since Bishop of Lincoln), 
 now eighty years old, on Jer. xxx. 13, 
 concerning the evil of forsaking God. 
 
 29M. Came my Lord Count Arundel, of 
 Ward our, to visit me. I went also to 
 see my Lord Viscount Montague. 2 
 
 31st. Settling my domestic affairs in 
 order, blessed God for His infinite mercies 
 and preservations the past year. 
 
 ANNUS MIRABILIS, 1659-60 : January 
 1. Begging God's blessings for the follow- 
 ing year, I went to Exeter Chapel, when 
 Mr. Gunning began the year on Galatians 
 iv. 3-7, showing the love of Christ in 
 shedding His blood so early for us. 
 
 \2th. W T rote to Colonel Morley again to 
 declare for his Majesty. 
 
 22nd. I went this afternoon to visit 
 Colonel Morley. After dinner I dis- 
 coursed with him ; but he was very 
 jealous, 3 and would not believe that 
 Monck came in to do the King any 
 service ; I told him that he might do it 
 without him, and have all the honour. 
 He was still doubtful, and would resolve 
 on nothing yet, so I took leave. 
 
 3rd February. Kept the Fast. General 
 Monck came now to London out of Scot- 
 land ; but no man knew what he would 
 do, or declare, yet he was met on his way 
 by the gentlemen of all the counties which 
 he passed, with petitions that he would 
 recall the old long-interrupted Parliament, 
 and settle the nation in some order, being 
 at this time in most prodigious confusion, 
 and under no government, everybody ex- 
 pecting what would be next, and what he 
 would do. 
 
 167). A detailed account of Evelyn's communica- 
 tions with Colonel Morley will be found in 
 Appendix IV. 
 
 a [Dr. Robert Sanderson, 1587- 1663, Bishop of 
 Lincoln, 1660-63.] 
 
 2 Francis Browne, third Viscount, d. 2nd 
 November, 1682, a zealous royalist. 
 
 3 [Suspicious.] 
 
i66o] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 203 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 10th February. Now were the gates of 
 the city broken down by General Monck ; 
 which exceedingly exasperated the city, the 
 soldiers marching up and down as triumph- 
 ing over it, and all the old army of the 
 fanatics put out of their posts, and sent 
 out of town. 
 
 /"*~i Uh. A signal day. Monck, perceiving 
 how infamous and wretched a pack of 
 knaves would have still usurped the 
 supreme power, and having intelligence 
 that they intended to take away his com- 
 mission, repenting of what he had done 
 to the city, and where he and his forces 
 were quartered, marches to Whitehall, 
 dissipates that nest of robbers, and con- 
 venes the old Parliament, the Rump 
 Parliament (so called as retaining some 
 few rotten members of the other) being 
 dissolved ; and for joy whereof were many 
 thousands of rumps roasted publicly in the 
 streets at the bonfires this night, 1 with 
 ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. 
 This was the first good omen. 
 
 From 17th February to 5th April, I was 
 detained in bed with a kind of double 
 tertian, the cruel effects of the spleen and 
 other distempers, in that extremity that 
 my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Need- 
 ham, 2 and Claude, were in great doubt 
 of my recovery ; but it pleased God to 
 deliver me out of this affliction, for which 
 I render Him hearty thanks : going to. 
 church the 8th, and receiving the blessed 
 Eucharist. 
 
 During this sickriess, came divers of my 
 relations and friends to visit me, and it 
 retarded my going into the country longer 
 than I intended ; however, I writ and 
 printed a letter, in defence of his Majesty, 3 
 against a wicked forged paper, pretended 
 to be sent frohTTBrussels to defame his 
 Majesty's person and virtues, and render 
 him odious, now when everybody was in 
 hope and expectation of the General and 
 Parliament recalling him, and establishing 
 the Government on its ancient and right 
 
 1 Pamphlets with cuts representing this special 
 turn of the popular heats were printed at the time. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 192.] 
 
 3 The late News from Brussels unmasked, and 
 His Majesty vindicated from tlie base calumny 
 and scandal therein fixed on him, 1660. This, 
 and the tract by Marchamont Needham which 
 gave rise to it, are reprinted in the Miscellaneous 
 Writings, 1825, pp. 193-204. 
 
 basis. The doing this towards the decline 
 of my sickness, and sitting up long in my 
 bed, had caused a small relapse, out of 
 which it yet' pleased God also to free me, 
 so as by the 14th I was able to go into the 
 country, which I did to my sweet and 
 native air at Wotton. 
 
 3rd May. Came the most happy tidings f^ 
 of his Majesty's gracious declaration and 
 applications to the Parliament, General, 
 and People, and their dutiful acceptance 
 and acknowledgment, after a most bloody 
 and unreasonable rebellion of near twenty 
 years. Praised be for ever the Lord of X> 
 Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, / * 
 because His mercy endureth for ever. 
 
 %th. This day was his Majesty pro- 
 claimed in London, etc. 
 
 gtk. I was desired and designed to 
 accompany my Lord Berkeley with the 
 public address of the Parliament, General, 
 etc. , to the King, and. invite him to come 
 over and assume his kingly Government, 
 he being now at Breda ; but I was yet so 
 weak, I could not make that journey by 
 sea, which was not a little to my detriment, 
 so I went to London to excuse myself, 
 returning the loth, having yet received a 
 gracious message from his Majesty by 
 Major Scot and Colonel Tuke. 
 
 24/^. Came to me Colonel Morley, 
 about procuring his pardon, now too late 
 seeing his error and neglect of the counsel 
 I gave him, by which, if he had taken it, 
 he had certainly done the great work with 
 the same ease that Monck did it, who was 
 then in Scotland, and Morley in a post to 
 have done what he pleased, but his 
 jealousy 1 and fear kept him from that 
 blessing and honour. I addressed him to 
 Lord Mordaunt, 2 then in great favour, for 
 his pardon, which he obtained at a cost of 
 ;£iooo, as I heard. O the sottish omission 
 of this gentleman ! what did I not undergo 
 of danger in this negotiation, to have 
 brought him over to his Majesty's interest, 
 when it was entirely in his hands ! u 
 
 29M. This day, his Majesty, Charles jk*j 
 the Second, came to London, after a sad 
 and long exile and calamitous suffering 
 both of the King and Church, being seven- 
 teen years. This was also his birthday, 
 and with a triumph of above 20,000 horse 
 and foot, brandishing their swords, and 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 202.] 2 [See ante, p. 193.] 
 
204 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1660 
 
 shouting with inexpressible joy ; the ways 
 strewed with flowers, the bells ringing, 
 the streets hung with tapestry, fountains 
 running with wine ; the Mayor, Aldermen, 
 and all the Companies, in their liveries, 
 chains of gold, and banners ; Lords and 
 Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and 
 velvet ; the windows and balconies, all set 
 with ladies ; trumpets, music, and myriads 
 of people flocking, even so far as from 
 Rochester, so as they were seven hours in 
 passing the city, even from two in the 
 afternoon till nine at night. 
 
 I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and 
 blessed God. And all this was done with- 
 out one drop_oJ bloodshed, and by that 
 very army whicrT rebelled against him : 
 but it was the Lord's doing, for such a 
 restoration was never mentioned in any 
 history, ancient or modern, since the 
 return of the Jews from the Babylonish 
 captivity ; nor so joyful a day and so 
 bright ever seen in this nation, this happen- 
 ing when to expect or effect it was past all 
 human policy. 
 
 4J/1 June. I received letters of Sir 
 Richard Browne's landing at Dover, 1 and 
 also letters from the Queen, which I was 
 to deliver at Whitehall, not as yet present- 
 ing myself to his Majesty, by reason of the 
 infinite concourse of people. The eager- 
 ness of men, women, and children, to see 
 his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so 
 great, that he had scarce leisure to eat for 
 some days, coming as they did from all 
 parts of the nation ; and the King being as 
 willing to give them that satisfaction, would 
 have none kept out, but gave free access to 
 all sorts of people. 
 
 Addressing myself to the Duke, 2 I was 
 carried to his Majesty, when very few 
 noblemen were with him, and kissed his 
 hands, being very graciously received. I 
 then returned home, to meet Sir Richard 
 Browne, who came not till the 8th, after 
 nineteen years' exile, during all which time 
 he kept up in his chapel the liturgy and 
 offices of the Church of England, to his no 
 small honour, and in a time when it was so 
 low, and as many thought utterly lost, that 
 in various controversies both with Papists 
 and Sectaries, our divines used to argue 
 for the visibility of the Church, from his 
 chapel and congregation. 
 
 l [See ante, p. 28.] 2 [Of York.] 
 
 I was all this week to and fro at court 
 about business. 
 
 i6t/i. The French, Italian, and Dutch 
 Ministers came to make their addresses to*, 
 his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pro/*^ 
 nouncing the harangue with great elo- 
 quence. 
 
 i&tk. I proposed the embassy of Con- 
 stantinople for Mr. Henshaw; but my 
 Lord Winchelsea struck in. 1 
 
 Goods that had been pillaged from 
 Whitehall during the Rebellion, were now 
 daily brought in, and restored upon pro- 
 clamation ; as plate, hangings, pictures, 
 etc. 
 
 22nd. The Warwickshire gentlemen 
 (as did all the shires and chief towns in 
 all the three nations) presented their con- 
 gratulatory Address. It was carried by 
 my Lord Northampton.' 2 
 
 30/A. The Sussex gentlemen presented 
 their Address, to which was my hand. I 
 went with it, and kissed his Majesty's 
 hand, who was pleased to own me more 
 particularly by calling me his old acquaint- 
 ance and speaking very graciously to me. 
 
 3rd July. I went to Hyde Park, 
 where was his Majesty, and abundance of 
 gallantry. 
 
 Afth. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke 3 harangue 
 to the House of Lords, in behalf of the 
 Roman Catholics, and his account of the 
 transaction at Colchester in murdering 
 Lord Capel, 4 and the rest of those brave 
 men, that suffered in cold blood, after 
 articles of rendition. 
 
 5M. I saw his Majesty go with as 
 much pomp and splendour as any earthly 
 prince could do to the great City feast, the 
 first they had invited him to since his 
 return ; but the exceeding rain which fell 
 all that day much eclipsed its lustres. 
 This was at Guildhall, and there was also 
 all the Parliament - men, both Lords and 
 Commons. The streets were adorned with 
 pageants, at immense cost. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 187. It was on his return from 
 this embassy that Lord Winchelsea, visiting Sicily, 
 was an eye-witness of the dreadful eruption of 
 Mount Etna in 1669, a short account of which was 
 afterwards published in a small pamphlet, with a 
 cut by Hollar of the mountain, etc. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 2ooy On Restoration Day Lord 
 Northampton had headed a band of two hundred 
 gentlemen in grey and blue to welcome the King.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 151. He had become a Roman 
 Catholic] 4 [See ante, p. 165.] 
 
i66o] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 205 
 
 Vjc tthjuly. His Majesty began first to touch 
 *] for the evil ! a according to custom, thus : 
 I his Majesty sitting under his state in the 
 i Banqueting- house, the chirurgeons cause 
 ! the sick to be brought, or led, up to the 
 I throne, where they kneeling, the King 
 I strokes their faces, or cheeks with both his 
 hands at once, at which instant a chaplain 
 in his formalities says, " He put his hands 
 upon them, and he healed them." This is 
 said to every one in particular. When 
 they have been all touched, they come up 
 again in the same order, and the other 
 chaplain, kneeling, and having angel gold 2 
 strung on white ribbon on his arm, delivers 
 them one by one to his Majesty, who puts 
 them about the necks of the touched as 
 they pass, whilst the first chaplain repeats, 
 "That is the true light who came into the 
 \ world." Then follows, an epistle (as at 
 first a Gospel) with the Liturgy, prayers 
 for the sick, with some alteration ; lastly 
 the blessing ; and then the Lord Chamber- 
 lain and the Comptroller of the Household 
 bring a basin, ewer and towel, for his 
 Majesty to wash. 
 
 The King received a congratulatory 
 address from the city of Cologne, in Ger- 
 many, where he had been some time in his 
 exile ; his Majesty saying they were the 
 best people in the world, the most kind 
 and worthy to him that he ever met with. 
 ~^ I recommended Monsieur Messary to 
 * be Judge Advocate in Jersey, by the Vice- 
 Chamberlain's mediation with the Earl of 
 St. Albans ; 3 and saluted my excellent 
 
 1 [According to Macaulay, Charles II. touched 
 during his reign "near a hundred thousand per- 
 sons," at a cost (in angels) of little less than ten 
 thousand a year {History, ch. xiv.). The service 
 appeared in the Prayer Book up to 1719. There is 
 a long account of this practice, which continued 
 until 1714, in Chambers's Book of Days, 1883. i. 
 pp. 82-85. (See also Pepys, under June 23, 1660, 
 and April 13, 1661).] 
 
 2 Pieces of money, so called from the figure of 
 an angel on them. [The identical touch-piece 
 given by Queen Anne to Dr. Johnson, whom she 
 touched, is preserved at the British Museum ; 
 and some interesting particulars respecting post- 
 Restoration touch-pieces in general are said to be 
 contained in a note prepared by the late Mr. R. W. 
 Cochran - Patrick for the Numismatic Society, 
 November 16, 1905.] 
 
 3 [Henry Jermyn, first Earl of St. Albans, d. 
 1684, afterwards Ambassador at Paris. He had 
 accompanied Henrietta Maria to France in 1644 
 {ante, p. 47), and been her secretary and the 
 commander of her body-guard. (See j>ost, under 
 18th September, 1683).] 
 
 and worthy noble friend, my Lord Ossory, 1 
 son to the Marquis of Ormonde, after 
 many years' absence returned home. 
 
 8th. Mr. Henchman 2 preached on 
 Ephes. v. 5, concerning Christian cir- 
 cumspection. From henceforth, was the 
 Liturgy publicly used in our churches, 
 whence it had been for so many years 
 banished. 
 
 15^/2. Came Sir George Carteret 3 and 
 Lady to visit us : he was now Treasurer of 
 the Navy. 
 
 28th. I heard his Majesty's speech in 
 the Lords' House, on passing the Bills of 
 Tonnage and Poundage ; restoration of my 
 Lord Ormonde to his estate in Ireland ; 
 concerning the Commission of Sewers, 
 and continuance of the Excise. — In the 
 afternoon, I saluted my old friend, the 
 Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of 
 Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). 4 He pre- 
 sented several Irish divines to be promoted 
 as Bishops in that kingdom, most of the 
 bishops in the three kingdoms being now 
 almost worn out, and the sees vacant. 
 
 31st. I went to visit Sir Philip War- 
 wick, 5 now Secretary to the Lord Trea- 
 surer, at his house in North Cray. 
 
 19th August. Our Vicar read the 
 Thirty-nine Articles to the congregation, 
 the national assemblies beginning now to 
 settle, and wanting instruction. 
 
 23rd. Came Duke Hamilton, 6 Lord 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 153.] 2 [See ante, p. 202.] 
 
 s [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
 4 John Bramhall, 1 594-1663. He was made 
 Bishop of Derry in 1634 ; but in 1641 his conduct 
 laid him open to charges of high treason, and he 
 found it necessary to quit the country, till the 
 return of Charles II., when he was created Arch- 
 bishop of Armagh. His works were published in 
 1677. Evelyn subsequently refers {see^ost, under 
 18th April, 1686) to a curious letter of Bramhall's 
 on the Irish Catholics, which caused the suppres- 
 sion of the book in which it appeared. 
 
 5 Sir Philip Warwick, 1609-83. He had been 
 Charles I.'s secretary at the Isle of Wight. He 
 was returned for Westminster at the Restoration, 
 and obtained the office of Secretary to the Lord 
 Treasurer, which brought him into frequent com- 
 munication with Evelyn. He had found time to 
 write A Discourse 0/ Government (published 
 1694), and Memoires of the Reigne of King- 
 Charles I., etc. (published 1701), the last contain- 
 ing spme curious anecdotes, and the most graphic 
 existing account of Cromwell's first speech in the 
 House of Commons. 
 
 6 [William Douglas, third Duke of Hamilton, 
 1635-94, father of Duke Hamilton in Thackeray's 
 Esmond. ] 
 
206 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1660 
 
 !\ 
 
 Lothian, 1 and several Scottish Lords, to 
 see my garden. 
 
 2$th August. Colonel Spencer, Colonel 
 of a regiment of horse in our county of 
 Kent, sent to me, and entreated that I would 
 take a commission for a troop of horse, 
 and that I would nominate my Lieutenant 
 and Ensigns ; I thanked him for the 
 honour intended me ; but would by no 
 
 means undertake the troubled " " 
 
 ~~tyh Iszptember-. I was invited to an 
 ordination by the Bishop of Bangor, 2 in 
 Henry VII. 's chapel, Westminster, and 
 afterwards saw the audience of an Envoy 
 from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compli- 
 ment his Majesty's return. 
 
 $th. Came to visit and dine with me 
 the Envoy of the King of Poland, and 
 Resident of the King of Denmark, etc. 
 
 jth. I went to Chelsea to visit Mr. 
 Boyle, 3 and see his pneumatic engine per- 
 form divers experiments. Thence, to Ken- 
 sington, to visit Mr. Henshaw, 4 returning 
 home that evening. 
 
 13th. I saw in Southwark, at St. Mar- 
 garet's fair, 5 monkeys and apes dance, and 
 do other feats of activity, on the high rope ; 
 they were gallantly clad a la mode, went 
 upright, saluted the company bowing and 
 pulling off their hats, they saluted one 
 another with as good a grace, as if in- 
 structed by a dancing-master ; they turned 
 heels over head with a basket having eggs 
 in it, without breaking any ; also, with 
 lighted candles in their hands, and on their 
 heads, without extinguishing them, and 
 with vessels of water without spilling a 
 drop. I also saw an Italian wench dance, 
 and perform all the tricks on the high rope, 
 to admiration ; all the court went to see 
 her. Likewise, here was a man who took 
 up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. 
 weight with the hair of his head only. 
 
 17th. Went to London, to see the 
 splendid entry of the Prince de Ligne, 
 Ambassador Extraordinary from Spain ; 
 he was General of the Spanish Kings' 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 190.] 
 
 2 [William Roberts, 1585-1665.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 204.] 
 
 5 [Our Lady fair, held on St. Margaret's-hill in 
 Southwark on the day after Bartholomew fair. 
 Nominally confined to three days, it generally 
 lasted fourteen. Hogarth drew it in 1733. It was 
 suppressed in 1762.] 
 
 horse in Flanders, and was accompanied 
 with divers great persons from thence, and 
 an innumerable retinue. His train con- 
 sisted of seventeen coaches, with six horses 
 of his own, besides a great number of 
 English, etc. Greater bravery had I never 
 seen. He was received in the Banqueting- 
 house, in exceeding state, all the great 
 officers of Court attending. 
 
 2yd. In the midst of all this joy and 
 jubilee, the Duke of Gloucester 1 died of the 
 small-pox, in the prime of youth, and a 
 prince of extraordinary hopes. 
 
 2.7th. The King received the merchants' 
 addresses in his closet, giving them assur- 
 ances of his persisting to keep Jamaica, 
 choosing Sir Edward Massey, Governor. 
 In the afternoon, the Danish Ambassador's 
 condolences were presented, on the death 
 of the Duke of Gloucester. This evening, 
 I saw the Princess Royal, 2 mother to the 
 Prince of Orange, now come out of Hol- 
 land Tn a fatal period. 
 
 6th October. I paid the great tax of 
 poll-money, levied for disbanding the army, 
 till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire 
 £10, and one shilling for every servant in 
 my house. 
 
 Jth. There dined with me a French 
 Count with Sir George Tuke, 3 who came 
 to take leave of me, being sent over to the 
 Queen- Mother, 4 to break the marriage of 
 the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor 
 Hyde. 5 The Queen would fain have un- 
 done it ; but it seems matters were recon- 
 ciled, on great offers of the Chancellor's to 
 befriend the Queen, who was much in debt, j 
 and was now to have the settlement of hem 
 affairs go through his hands. I 
 
 1 \th. The regicides who sat on the life 
 of our late King, were brought to trial in"*' 
 the Old Bailey, before a commission of 
 Oyer and Terminer. 
 
 14/^. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, 
 Hewson, and Peters, were executed. 
 
 iyth. Scot, Scroop, Cook, and Jones, 
 
 1 [Henry, Duke of Gloucester, 1639-60 (Henry of 
 Oatlands), the King's brother. He had fought in 
 Flanders.] 
 
 2 [Mary, daughter of Charles I., married to 
 William, Prince of Orange, and mother of William 
 III.] 
 
 3 [Query, — Sir Samuel Tuke. See ante, p. 204.] 
 
 4 [Henrietta Maria, widow of Charles I.] 
 
 5 [It had been contracted at Breda in 1659 (see 
 post, under 22nd December, 1660).] 
 
i66o] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 207 
 
 suffered for reward of their iniquities at 
 Charing Cross, in sight of the place where 
 they put to death their natural prince, and 
 in the presence of the King his son, whom 
 they also sought to kill. I saw not their 
 execution, but met their quarters, mangled, 
 and cut, and reeking, as they were brought 
 from the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. 
 Oh, the miraculous providence of God ! 
 
 2o7/z October. His Majesty went to meet 
 the Queen-Mother. 
 
 29M. Going to London, my Lord 
 
 Mayor's show stopped me in Cheapside ; 
 
 *fone of the pageants represented a great 
 
 ? wood, with the royal oak, and history of 
 
 his Majesty's miraculous escape at Bos- 
 
 cobel. 
 
 ^ist. Arrived now to my fortieth year, 
 V" I rendered to Almighty God my due and 
 * hearty thanks. 
 
 \st November. I went with some of my 
 relations to Court, to show them his 
 Majesty's cabinet and closet of rarities ; 
 ^ the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after 
 <f Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which 
 I infinitely esteem ; also, that large piece 
 of the Duchess of Lennox, done in enamel, 
 by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, 
 onyxes, and intaglios, especially a medal- 
 lion of Caesar, as broad as my hand ; like- 
 wise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa, a 
 landscape of needle -work; formerly pre- 
 sented by the Dutch to King Charles the 
 First. Here I saw a vast book of maps, 
 in a volume near four yards large ; a curious 
 ship model ; and, amongst the clocks, one 
 that showed the rising and setting of the 
 sun in the zodiac ; the sun represented by 
 a face and rays of gold, upon an azure sky, 
 observing the diurnal and annual motion, 
 rising and setting behind a landscape of 
 hills, the work of our famous Fromantil ; 1 
 and several other rarities. 
 
 2>rd. Arrived the Queen-Mother in Eng- 
 
 1 [John Fromentel (or, as also spelled, Fromantil, 
 Fromanteel, and Formantil) was a Dutchman. He 
 is credited with constructing the first pendulum 
 clock in England. In the Commonwealth Mercury 
 for Thursday, 25th November, 1668, is the following, 
 which suggests further variation of the name: — 
 Pendulum clocks are said to be "made by Ahasu- 
 erus Eromanteel, who made the first that were in 
 England. You may have them at his house in 
 Mopes Alley, Southwark, and at the sign of the 
 ' Maremaid ' in Lothbury, near Bartholomew Lane 
 end, London "(E. J. Wood's Curiosities of Clocks 
 and Watches, 1866, pp. 71, 98). See post, under 
 3rd May, 1661.] 
 
 land, whence she iiad been banished almost 
 twenty years ; x together with her illustrious 
 daughter, the Princess Henrietta, 2 divers 
 Princes and Noblemen accompanying them. 
 
 1 5//*. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand. 
 
 20M. I dined at the Clerk Comp- 
 troller's of the Green Cloth, 3 being the 
 first day of the re -establishment .of the 
 Court diet, and settling of his Majesty's 
 household. 
 
 iT>rd. Being this day in the bedchamber 
 of the Princess Henrietta, where were many 
 great beauties and noblemen, I saluted 
 divers of my old friends and acquaintances 
 abroad ; his Majesty carrying my wife to 
 salute the Queen and Princess, and then 
 led her into his closet, and with his own 
 hands showed her divers curiosities. 
 
 l^th. Dr. Rainbow preached before the 
 King, on Luke ii. 14, of the glory to be 
 given God for all his mercies, especially 
 for restoring the Church and Government ; 
 now the service was performed with music, 
 voices, etc., as formerly. 
 
 2jth. Came down the Clerk Comptroller 
 [of the Green Cloth] by the Lord Steward's 
 appointment, to survey the land at Sayes 
 Court, on which I had pretence, and to 
 make his report. 4 
 
 6t/i December. I waited on my brother 
 and sister Evelyn to Court. Now were ,%, 
 presented to his Majesty these two rare *r 
 pieces of drollery, 5 or rather a Dutch 
 Kitchen, painted by Dow, so finely as 
 hardly to be distinguished from enamel. 
 I was also showed divers rich jewels and 
 crystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, 
 Titian's master; "Christ in the Garden," 
 by Annibale Caracci ; two incomparable 
 heads, by Holbein ; the Queen-Mother in 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 47. La Rcine malheureitse — as 
 she called herself, when she saw the Banqueting- 
 house — arrived in London, 12th November, N.S. 
 She was now, says Pepys, on the 22nd, "a very 
 little, plain, old woman."] 
 
 2 ["Madame" (see ante, p. 47.) Pepys thought 
 her "very pretty," though (as was fitting) not so 
 handsome as his wife.] 
 
 3 [Mr. Crane (sec post, p. 208).] 
 
 4 Up to this time it was still the usage to supply 
 the King's Household with corn and cattle from 
 the different counties ; and upon oxen being sent 
 up, pasture-grounds of the King, near town, were 
 allotted for them ; among these were lands at Dept- 
 ford, and Tottenham Court, which were under the 
 direction of the Lord Steward and Board of Green 
 Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of 
 the lands at Deptford. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 13.] 
 
208 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1661 
 
 a miniature, almost as big as the life ; an 
 exquisite piece of carving ; two unicorn's 
 horns, etc. This in the closet. 
 jy 13th December. I presented myson, John, 1 
 *^to the Queen-Mother, whokissedhim, talked 
 with and made extraordinary much of him. 
 
 14M. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the 
 Marchioness of Ormonde, 2 and Countess 
 of Guildford, 3 all of whom we had known 
 abroad in exile. 
 
 18th. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most 
 ingenious gentleman, grandchild to the 
 learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, 
 to whom I had recommended him as 
 Secretary. 
 
 21st. This day died the Princess of 
 Orange, 4 of the small-pox, which entirely 
 altered the face and gallantry of the whole 
 Court. 
 
 22nd. The marriage of the Chancellor's 
 daughter being now newly owned, I went 
 to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's 
 intimate acquaintance when she waited on 
 the Princess of Orange ; she was now at 
 her father's, at Worcester House, in the 
 Strand. 5 We all kissed her hand, as did 
 also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) 
 and Countess of Northumberland. This 
 was a strange change — can it succeed well ? 
 — I spent the evening at St. James's, 
 whither the Princess Henrietta was retired 
 during the fatal sickness of her sister, the 
 Princess of Orange, 6 now come over to 
 salute the King her brother. The Princess 
 gave my wife an extraordinary compliment 
 and gracious acceptance, for the Character' 1 
 she had presented her the day before, and 
 which was afterwards printed. 
 
 2$tk. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, 8 
 Clerk of his Majesty's Closet, and my 
 
 * [See ante, p. 185.] 2 [See ante, p. 153.] 
 
 3 Elizabeth, daughter of William, first Earl of 
 Denbigh, married to Lewis, Viscount Boyle, who 
 fell at the battle of Liscarroll, in 1642. She was 
 advanced to the Peerage for life, on the 14th July, 
 1660, as Countess of Guildford, and died in 1673. 
 
 4 [The Princess of Orange (Princess Royal), 
 1631-60, died 24th December.] 
 
 5 [Which Clarendon rented of the Marquis of 
 Worcester. Here on the 3rd September, 1660, 
 between 11 and 2 at night, Anne Hyde was married 
 to the Duke of York according to the rites of the 
 English Church.] 
 
 6 [See above, 21st December.] 
 
 7 A Character 0/ England, as it -was lately 
 presented in a Letter to a Noble Man of France, 
 
 1659, reprinted in Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writ- 
 ings, 1825, pp. 141-67. 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 dear friend, now Dean of Westminster, on 
 Luke ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach 
 made in the public joy by the lamented 
 death of the Princess. 
 
 30th December. I dined at Court with 
 Mr. Crane, 1 Clerk of the Green Cloth. 
 
 31^. I gave God thanks for His many 
 signal mercies to myself, Church, and 
 nation, this wonderful year. 
 
 1660- 1: 2nd Ja?zuary. The Queen- 
 Mother, with the Princess Henrietta, 
 began her journey to Portsmouth, in order 
 to her return into France. 2 
 
 $th. I visited my Lord Chancellor 
 Clarendon, with whom I had been well 
 acquainted abroad. 
 
 6th. Dr. Allestree 3 preached at the 
 Abbey, after which four bishops were con- 
 secrated, Hereford, Norwich, . . . 
 
 This night was suppressed a bloody 
 insurrection of some Fifth - Monarchy en- 
 thusiasts. 4 Some of them were examined 
 at the Council the next day ; but could 
 say nothing to extenuate their madness 
 and unwarrantable zeal. 
 
 I was now chosen (and nominated^fey 
 his Majesty for one of the Council), by 
 suffrage of the rest of the Members, a 
 Fellow of the Philosophic Society now 
 meeting at Gresham College, where was 
 an assembly of divers learned gentlemen. 5 
 This being the first meeting since the 
 King's return ; but it had been begun some 
 years before at Oxford, and was continued 
 with interruption here in London during 
 the Rebellion. 
 
 There was another rising of the fanatics, 
 in which some were slain. j£,^*<**\ 
 
 16th. I went to the Philosophic OlmvJ 
 where was examined the Torricellian ex- 
 periment. I presented my Circle of 
 Mechanical Trades, and had recommended 
 to me the publishing what I had written of 
 chalcography. 7 
 
 1 TSee ante, p. 207.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 207. At Portsmouth the Princess 
 Henrietta fell ill, and they did not start until the 
 25th.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Richard Allestree, 1619-81, Canon of 
 Christ Church, and reputed author of the Whole 
 Duty of Man.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. T94.] 
 
 5 [I.e. the Royal Society.] 
 
 6 [At Gresham College, the germ of the Royal 
 Society. The club had previously met at the Bull 
 Head Tavern in Cheapside.] 
 
 7 See post, under 10th June, 1662. 
 
i66i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 209 
 
 vol 
 
 * 2$tk January. After divers years since I 
 y{ had seen any play, I went to see acted 
 v The Scornful Lady, at a new theatre in 
 Lincoln's-Inn-Fields. 1 
 
 30th. Was the first solemn fast and day 
 f humiliation to deplore the sins which 
 had so long provoked God against this 
 afflicted church and people, ordered by 
 Parliament to be annually celebrated to 
 expiate the guilt of the execrable murder of 
 the late King. 
 
 This day (O the stupendous and inscrut- 
 able judgments of God !) were the carcasses 
 of those arch-rebels, Cromwell, Bradshaw 
 (the judge who condemned his Majesty), 
 and Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), 
 dragged out of their superb tombs in West- 
 minster among the Kings, to Tyburn, and 
 hanged on the gallows there from nine in 
 the morning till six at night, and then 
 buried under that fatal and ignominious 
 monument in a deep pit ; thousands of 
 people who had seen them in all their 
 pride being spectators. Look back at 
 October 22, 1658, 2 and be astonished ! and 
 fear God and honour the King ; but meddle 
 not with them who are given to change ! 
 
 6th February. To London, to our Society, 
 where I gave notice of the visit of the 
 Danish Ambassador Extraordinary, and 
 was ordered to return him their acceptance 
 of that honour, and to invite him the next 
 meeting day. 
 
 loth. Dr. Boldero 3 preached at Ely- 
 house, on Matthew vi. 33, of seeking early 
 the kingdom of God ; after sermon, the 
 Bishop (Dr. Wren) 4 gave us the blessing, 
 very pontifically. 
 
 13M. I conducted the Danish Am- 
 bassador to our meeting at Gresham 
 College, 5 where were showed him various 
 experiments in vacuo, and other curiosities. 
 
 21st. Prince Rupert 6 first showed me 
 how to grave in mezzo tinto. 
 
 1 [A comedy by Beaumont and Fletcher, 1616. 
 The theatre was The Duke's Playhouse in Portu- 
 gal Row (originally Lisle's Tennis Court).] 
 
 2 Ante, p. 200 : the entry in the Diary describing 
 the Protector's funeral. 
 
 * [Dr. Edmund Boldero, 1608-79, afterwards 
 master of Jesus College, Cambridge.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Matthew Wren, 1585-1667, Bishop of Ely.] 
 
 5 [See supra, 16th January.] 
 
 6 [Prince Rupert, 1619-82, third son of Frederick, 
 Elector Palatine and titular King of Bohemia, by 
 Elizabeth, daughter of James I. He long passed 
 as the inventor of mezzotint engraving, which he 
 had learned at Brussels from Ludwig von Siegen, 
 
 26th. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at 
 Parson's Green. 1 
 
 2jtk. Ash-Wednesday. Preached before 
 the King the Bishop of London (Dr. 
 Sheldon) 2 on Matthew xviii. 25, concerning 
 charity and forgiveness. 
 
 8th March. I went to my Lord Chan- 
 cellor's, and delivered to him the state of 
 my concernment at Sayes Court. 
 
 gth. I went with that excellent person 
 and philosopher, Sir Robert Murray, 3 to 
 visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw divers 
 effects of the eolipile for weighing air. 4 
 
 13th. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. 
 Browne's pretence to the Wardenship of 
 Merton College, Oxford, to which, as 
 having been about forjy years before a 
 student of that House, he was elected by 
 the votes of every Fellow except one : but 
 the statutes of the House being so that, 
 unless every Fellow agree, the election 3,: 
 devolves to the Visitor, who is the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), 5 his 
 Grace gave his nomination to Sir T. 
 Clayton, resident there, and the Physic 
 Professor ; for which I was not at all 
 displeased, because, though Sir Richard 
 missed it by much ingratitude and wrong 
 of the Archbishop (Clayton being no 
 Fellow), yet it would have hindered Sir 
 Richard from attending at Court to settle 
 his greater concerns, and so have prejudiced 
 me, though he was much inclined to have 
 passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit 
 for him at that time, for many reasons. So I 
 took leave of his Grace, who was formerly 
 Lord Treasurer in the reign of Charles I. 6 
 
 an officer in the service of the Landgrave of Hesse- 
 Cassel, 1609-76? There is a head of an execu- 
 tioner, after Spagnoletto, by Prince Rupert, in 
 Evelyn's Scutytura. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 193. The house was Peterborough 
 House, which remained in the family until the 
 eighteenth century, when it was sold to Mr. 
 Heaviside, a timber merchant, who a few years 
 after transferred it to Mr. Merrick, an army agent. 
 It was then pulled down, to make way for a new 
 building. 
 
 2 [Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, 1598-1677, afterwards 
 Archbishop of Canterbury.] 
 
 3 [One of the constitutors of the Royal Society.] 
 
 4 [More accurately aeolipile. It is said to have 
 been invented by Hero of Alexandria in the second 
 century B.C.] 
 
 5 [Dr. William Juxon, 1 582-1663 ; Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, 1660-63. He had been Lord High 
 Treasurer, 1636-41.] 
 
 6 [At Wotton House is preserved the crimson 
 velvet Prayer Book used by the King on the 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1661 
 
 This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed 
 me, with his own hands, the new way of 
 graving, called mezzo tinto, which after- 
 wards, by his permission, I published in 
 my History of Chalcography ; * this set so 
 many artists on work, that they soon 
 arrived to the perfection it is since come, 
 emulating the tenderest miniatures. 
 
 Our Society now gave in my relation of 
 the Peak of Tenerifife, in the Great Canaries, 
 to be added to more queries concerning 
 divers natural things reported of that 
 island. 
 
 I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, 2 
 now going for France, as sent by his 
 Majesty to condole the death of that great 
 Minister and politician, Count Mazarin. 
 
 29th March. Dr. Heylyn (author of the 
 Geography) 3 preached at the Abbey, on 
 Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and 
 charity ; he was, I think, at this time quite 
 dark [blind], and so had been for some 
 years. 
 
 3 1 st. This night, his Majesty promised 
 to make my wife Lady of the Jewels (a 
 very honourable charge) to the future 
 Queen (but which he never performed). 
 
 1st April. I dined with that great 
 mathematician and virtuoso, Monsieur 
 Zulichem, 4 inventor of the pendule clock, 
 and discoverer of the phenomenon of 
 Saturn's annulus : he was elected into our 
 Society. 
 
 19th. To London, and saw the Bath-ing 
 and rest of the ceremonies of the Knights 
 of the Bath, preparatory to the coronation ; 
 it was in the Painted Chamber, West- 
 minster. I might have received this 
 honour ; but declined it. The rest of the 
 ceremony was in the chapel at Whitehall, 
 when their swords being laid on the altar, 
 the Bishop delivered them. 
 
 2.2nd. Was the splendid cavalcade of 
 his Majesty from the Tower of London 
 to Whitehall, when I saw him in the 
 
 scaffold (30th January, 1649). It was given by 
 Juxon to Sir Richard Browne.] 
 
 1 See ante, p. 208 ; and post, under 10th June, 
 1662. 
 
 2 [See ante. p. 204. Cardinal Mazarin died 9th 
 March, 1661.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Peter Heylyn, 1600-62. His Geography 
 had appeared in 1621.] 
 
 4 [Christian Huygens van Zulichem (Hugenius), 
 1629-95, the mathematician and astronomer. He 
 was in England at this date (see also post, under 
 3rd May, 1661).] 
 
 Banqueting-house create six Earls, and as 
 many Barons, viz. 
 
 Edward Lord Hyde, 1 Lord Chancellor, 
 Earl of Clarendon ; supported by the Earls 
 of Northumberland and Sussex ; the Earl 
 of Bedford carried the cap and coronet, the 
 Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of 
 Newport, the mantle. 
 
 Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex. 
 
 Brudenell, . . Cardigan ; 
 Valentia, . . Anglesea ; 
 
 Grenville, 2 . . Bath ; and 
 
 Howard, Earl of Carlisle. 3 
 
 The Barons were : Denzil Holies ; 4 Corn- 
 wallis ; 5 Booth ; Townsend ; Cooper ; 
 Crew ; who were led up by several Peers, 
 with Garter and officers of arms before 
 them ; when, after obedience on their 
 several approaches to the throne, their 
 
 1 " In the following year [1656 or 1657] some 
 attempts were made to remove the Chancellor 
 [Hyde], by accusing him of betraying his Ma ties 
 Counsells, and holding correspondence with Crom- 
 well : but these allegations were so triviall and 
 frivolous, that they manifestly appear 'd to be 
 nothing but the effects of malice against him, and 
 therefore produced the contrary effects to those 
 which some desired, and strengthen'd the King's 
 kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to 
 beleeve, that these suggestions against him, pro- 
 ceeded all from one and the same cause, namely, 
 from the ambition which some people had, to enter 
 in his room to the first trust of his Ma ties affairs, if 
 once they could remove him from that Station." — 
 Clarke's Life 0/ James the Second, 1816, vol. i. p. 
 274. 
 
 2 John Grenville, 1628-1701, was the son of the 
 celebrated Royalist general, Sir Bevil Grenville, by 
 whose side he had fought in several battles with great 
 gallantry. During the Protectorate he had acted 
 as Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles II., for 
 whom he conducted negotiations with Monck. 
 
 3 The new Earl of Carlisle was Charles, created 
 Baron Dacre, Viscount and first Earl of Carlisle, 
 1629-85, who held several important offices. He 
 was Ambassador to the Czar of Muscovy, and was 
 afterwards sent with the Order of the Garter to 
 Charles XII., King of Sweden. He was also 
 Governor of Jamaica, 1677-81. 
 
 4 Denzil Holies, 1599-1680, was second son of 
 John, first Earl of Clare, and at the commencement 
 of his career vigorously opposed in Parliament the 
 arbitrary measures of Charles I. ; but during the 
 Commonwealth he sought to restore the monarchy, 
 for which as we now see, he was created Baron 
 Holies. He was employed as Ambassador Extra- 
 ordinary to the Court of France, 1663-66, and 
 Plenipotentiary at the Treaty of Breda. Neverthe- 
 less, he subsequently was held to have gone round 
 to his old opinions, and was again under disfavour 
 as a patriot in the latter days of his life. 
 
 5 Corn wallis was Sir Frederick Cornwallis, Bart., 
 d. 1^62, here for his services to Charles I. and 
 Charles II. created Baron Cornwallis, of Eye. 
 
i66i] 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E FEZ I W 
 
 211 
 
 patents were presented by Garter King- at - 
 Arms, which being received by the Lord 
 Chamberlain, and delivered to his Majesty, 
 and by him to the Secretary of State, were 
 read, and then again delivered to his 
 Majesty, and by him to the several Lords 
 created ; they were then robed, their 
 coronets and collars put on by his Majesty, 
 and they were placed in rank on both sides 
 the state and throne ; but the Barons put 
 off their caps and circles, and held them in 
 their hands, the Earls keeping on their 
 coronets, as cousins to the King. 
 
 I spent the rest of the evening in seeing 
 the several arch - triumphals built in the 
 streets at several eminent places through 
 which his Majesty was next day to pass, 
 some of which, though temporary, and to 
 stand but one year, were of good invention 
 and architecture, with inscriptions. 
 
 23rd April. Was the Coronation of his 
 Majesty Charles the Second in the Abbey 
 Church of Westminster ; at all which cere- 
 mony I was present. The King and his 
 Nobility went to the Tower, I accompany- 
 ing my Lord Viscount Mordaunt 1 part of 
 the way ; this was on Sunday, the 22nd ; 
 but indeed his Majesty went not till early 
 this morning, and proceeded from thence 
 to Westminster, in this order : 2 
 
 First, went the Duke of York's Horse 
 Guards. Messengers of the Chamber. 136 
 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each 
 of whom had two, most richly habited. 
 The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. 
 Sewers of the Chamber. Quarter Waiters. 
 Six Clerks of Chancery. Clerk of the 
 Signet. Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks 
 of the Council, of the Parliament, and of 
 the Crown. Chaplains in ordinary having 
 dignities, 10. King's Advocates and Re- 
 membrancer. Council at Law. Masters 
 of the Chancery. Puisne Serjeants. King's 
 Attorney and Solicitor. King's eldest Ser- 
 jeant. Secretaries of the French and 
 Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers. Daily 
 Waiters, Sewers, Carvers, and Cupbearers 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 193.] 
 
 2 A full account of this ceremony, with elaborate 
 engravings, by Hollar and others, appeared in 1662 
 in a folio volume published by John Ogilby, the 
 " King's Cosmographer," 1600-76. [Its title was— 
 The Entertainment o/his most excellent majestie 
 Charles //., in his passage throug the city of 
 London to his coronation.} Ogilby was entrusted 
 with the " poetical part " of the show. 
 
 in ordinary. Esquires of the body, 4. 
 Masters of standing offices, being no Coun- 
 sellors, viz. of the Tents, Revels, Cere- 
 monies, Armoury, Wardrobe, Ordnance, 
 Requests. Chamberlain of the Exchequer. 
 Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord 
 Chief- Baron. Lord Chief -Justice of the 
 Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. 
 Lord Chief-Justice of England. Trumpets. 
 Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. Knights 
 of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes, exceed- 
 ing rich, and the noblest show of the whole 
 cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight 
 Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. 
 Master of the Jewels. Lords of the Privy 
 Council. Comptroller of the Household. 
 Treasurer of the Household. Trumpets. 
 Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at 
 Arms. Barons. Two Pursuivants at Arms. 
 Viscounts. Two Heralds. Earls. Lord 
 Chamberlain of the Household. Two 
 Heralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds 
 Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord Chancellor. 
 Lord High Steward of England. Two" 
 persons representing the Dukes of Nor- 
 mandy and Acquitaine, viz. Sir Richard 
 Fanshawe 1 and Sir Herbert Price, in 
 fantastic habits of the time. Gentlemen 
 Ushers. Garter. Lord Mayor of London. 
 The Duke of York alone (the rest by two's). 
 Lord High Constable of England. Lord 
 Great Chamberlain of England. The sword 
 borne by the Earl Marshal of England. 
 The KING, in royal robes and equipage. 
 Afterwards, followed equerries, footmen, 
 gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse, 
 leading a horse richly caparisoned. Vice- 
 Chamberlain. Captain of the Pensioners. 
 Captain of the Guard. The Guard. The 
 Horse-Guard. The troop of Volunteers, 
 with many other officers and gentlemen. 
 
 This magnificent train on horseback, as 
 rich as embroidery, velvet, cloth of gold 
 and silver, and jewels, could make them 
 and their prancing horses, proceeded 
 through the streets strewed with flowers, 
 houses hung with rich tapestry, windows 
 and balconies full of ladies ; the London 
 militia lining the ways, and the several 
 companies, with their banners and loud 
 music, ranked in their orders ; the foun- 
 tains running wine, bells ringing, with 
 speeches made* at the several triumphal 
 arches ; at that of the Temple Bar (near 
 
 1 [See ante., p. 165.] 
 
212 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1661 
 
 which I stood) the Lord Mayor was re- 
 ceived by the Bailiff of Westminster, who, 
 in a scarlet robe, made a speech. Thence, 
 with joyful acclamations, his Majesty passed 
 to Whitehall. Bonfires at night. 
 
 The next day, being St. George's, he went 
 by water to Westminster Abbey. When his 
 Majesty was entered, the Dean and Pre- 
 bendaries brought all the regalia, and 
 delivered them to several noblemen to bear 
 before the King, who met them at the west 
 door of the church, singing an anthem, to 
 the choir. Then, came the peers, in their 
 robes, and coronets in their hands, till his 
 Majesty was placed on a throne elevated 
 before the altar. Afterwards, the Bishop 
 of London 1 (the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 being sick) 2 went to every side of the throne 
 to present the King to the people, asking 
 if they would have him for their King, and 
 do him homage ; at this, they shouted 
 four times ' ' God save King Charles the 
 Second ! " Then, an anthem was sung. 
 His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, 
 went up to the altar, and he offered a pall 
 and a pound of gold. Afterwards, he sate 
 down in another chair during the sermon, 
 which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop 
 of Worcester. 3 
 
 After sermon, the King took his oath 
 before the altar to maintain the religion, 
 Magna Charta, and laws of the land. The 
 hymn Veni S. Sp. followed, and then the 
 Litany by two Bishops. Then the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, present but much 
 indisposed and weak, said "Lift up your 
 hearts " ; at which, the King rose up, and 
 put off his robes and upper garments, and 
 was in a waistcoat so opened in divers 
 places, that the Archbishop might com- 
 modiously anoint him, first in the palms 
 of his hands, when an anthem was sung, 
 and a prayer read ; then, his breast and 
 betwixt the shoulders, bending of both arms; 
 and, lastly, on the crown of the head, with 
 apposite hymns and prayers at each anoint- 
 ing ; this done, the Dean closed and but- 
 toned up the waistcoat. After which, was 
 a coif put on, and the cobbium, sindon or 
 dalmatic, and over this a super-tunic of 
 cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of 
 the same, spurs, and the sword ; a prayer 
 
 • [Sheldon (see ante, p. 209).] 
 
 2 [Juxon (see ante, p. 209).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 152. He was not translated to 
 Winchester until 1662.] 
 
 being first said over it by the Archbishop 
 on the altar, before it was girt on by the 
 Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, 
 mantle, etc. Then, the Archbishop placed 
 the crown -imperial on the altar, prayed 
 over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, 
 at which all the Peers put on their coronets. 
 Anthems, and rare music, with lutes, viols, 
 trumpets, organs, and voices, were then 
 heard, and the Archbishop put on a ring 
 on his Majesty's finger. The King next 
 offered his sword on the altar, which being 
 redeemed, was drawn, and borne before 
 him. Then, the Archbishop delivered him 
 the sceptre with the dove in one hand, and, 
 in the other, the sceptre with the globe. 
 The King kneeling, the Archbishop pro- 
 nounced the blessing. His Majesty then 
 ascending again his royal throne, whilst 
 Te Deum was singing, all the Peers did 
 their homage, by every one touching his 
 crown. The Archbishop, and the rest of 
 the Bishops, first kissing the King ; who 
 received the Holy Sacrament, and so dis- 
 robed, yet with the crown-imperial on his 
 head , and accompanied with all the nobility 
 in the former order, he went on foot upon 
 blue cloth, which was spread and reached 
 from the west door of the Abbey to West- 
 minster stairs, when he took water in a 
 triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was 
 extraordinary feasting. 
 
 24/A April. I presented his Majesty 
 with his "Panegyric" 1 in the Privy 
 Chamber, which he was pleased to accept 
 most graciously ; I gave copies to the Lord 
 Chancellor, and most of the noblemen who 
 came to me for it. I dined at the Marquis 
 of Ormonde's, where was a magnificent 
 feast, and many great persons. 
 
 1st May. I went to Hyde Park to take 
 the air, where was his Majesty and an in- 
 numerable appearance of gallants and rich 
 coaches, being now a time of universal 
 festivity and joy. 
 
 2nd. I had audience of my Lord Chan- 
 cellor 2 about my title to Sayes Court. 
 
 yd. I went to see the wonderful engine 
 for weaving silk stockings, said to have been 
 
 1 [A Poem upon his Majesties Coronation the 
 23 of April, 1661, being St. Georges day. London : 
 1661. From a letter of this date from Lord Mor- 
 daunt to Evelyn, it seems that King Charles had 
 nervously inquired, first, whether the "panegyric" 
 was in Latin, and secondly whether it was long.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 210.] 
 
i66i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 the invention of an Oxford scholar forty 
 years since ; l and I returned by Froman- 
 til's, 2 the famous clock-maker, to see some 
 pendules, Monsieur Zulichem being with us. 
 
 This evening, I was ■ with my Lord 
 Brouncker, 3 Sir Robert Murray, 4 Sir Paul 
 Neile, 5 Monsieur Zulichem, 6 and Bull (all 
 of them of our Society, and excellent 
 mathematicians), to show his Majesty, who 
 was present, Saturn's annulus, as some 
 thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with his 
 Balteus (as that learned gentleman had 
 published), very near eclipsed by the moon, 
 near the Mons Porphyritis ; also, Jupiter 
 and satellites, through his Majesty's great 
 telescope, drawing thirty - five feet ; on 
 which were divers discourses. 
 
 Stk May. His Majesty rode in state, with 
 his imperial crown on, and all the peers in 
 their robes, in great pomp to the parlia- 
 ment now newly chosen (the old one being 
 dissolved) ; and, that evening, declared in 
 council his intention to marry the Infanta 
 of Portugal. 7 
 
 gt/i. At Sir Robert Murray's, where I 
 met Dr. Wallis, 8 Professor of Geometry 
 in Oxford, where was discourse of several 
 mathematical subjects. 
 
 I I/A. My wife presented to his Majesty 
 the Madonna she had copied in miniature 
 from P. Oliver's painting, after Raphael, 
 which she wrought with extraordinary 
 pains and judgment. The King was in- 
 
 1 [William Lee, M.A., of Cambridge, d. 1610. 
 His invention being discouraged by Elizabeth and 
 James I., he migrated to Rouen and died in France. 
 His art was then brought back to this country by 
 his brother (see Felkin's History of tlie Machinc- 
 ivrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures., 1867).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 207.] 
 
 3 Sir William, the second Viscount Brouncker, 
 1620 - 84, was the first President of the Royal 
 Society ; and several mathematical papers written 
 by him are to be found in their Transactions. 
 He was also Chancellor to Queen Catherine of 
 Braganza, 1662, a Commissioner of the Admiralty, 
 and Master of St. Catherine's Hospital, i68i # . 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 209.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 G [See ante, p. 210.] 
 
 7 [Catherine of Braganza.] 
 
 8 John Wallis, 1616-1703, bom at Ashford, in 
 Kent, of which place his father was minister. 
 Adopting the same profession, he took his degree 
 of Doctor of Divinity, and obtained the living of 
 St. Gabriel, Fenchurch Street, London, in 1643. 
 He was one of the earliest members of the Royal 
 Society. He was appointed chaplain to Charles 
 II., and had been employed in decyphering inter- 
 cepted correspondence, in which he was considered 
 remarkably clever. 
 
 finitely pleased with it, and caused it to 
 be placed in his cabinet amongst his best 
 paintings. 
 
 13//Z. I heard and saw such exercises 
 at the election of scholars at Westminster 
 school to be sent to the university in Latin, 
 Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes 
 and extemporary verses, as wonderfully 
 astonished me in such youths, with such 
 readiness and wit, some of them not above 
 twelve, or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, 
 that what they attain here so ripely, they 
 either do not retain, or do not improve 
 more considerably when they come to be 
 men, though many of them do ; and no 
 less is to be blamed their odd pronouncing 
 of Latin, so that out of England none were 
 able to understand, or endure it. The 
 examinants, or posers, were, Dr. Duport, 
 Greek Professor at Cambridge j 1 Dr. Fell, 
 Dean of Christ - Church, Oxford ; 2 Dr. 
 Pearson, 3 Dr. Allestree, Dean of West- 
 minster, 4 and any that would. 
 
 iqth. His Majesty was pleased to dis- * 
 course with me concerning several par-^~ 
 ticulars relating to our Society, and the>n>* 
 planet Saturn, etc., as he sate at supper 
 in the withdrawing - room to his bed- 
 chamber. 
 
 16th. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the 
 resident from Hamburgh, who continued 
 his feast near nine whole hours, according 
 to the custom of his country, 5 though there 
 
 1 James Duport, 1606-79. He finished his 
 education at Trinity, and was appointed Regius 
 Professor of Greek in 1639, but was deprived in 
 1656 for refusing the engagement. He was Pre- 
 bendary of Lincoln and Archdeacon of Stow in 
 1 64 1, and in 1660 chaplain to Charles II., when he 
 was restored to his Greek Professorship, created 
 Doctor of Divinity, made Dean of Peterborough, 
 and, in 1668, elected Master of Magdalene College 
 (see post, under 15th September, 1672). 
 
 2 John Fell, 1625-86. He was removed from the 
 grammar-school at Thame, when only eleven 
 years of age, to become a student at Christ Church, 
 Oxford, his father being at the time Vice- 
 Chancellor of the University- Of this appoint- 
 ment the elder Fell was deprived by the Parlia- 
 ment, and his son expelled from his College, for 
 having been in arms for the King. The father 
 died upon hearing of the execution of Charles, but 
 the son was not overlooked at the Restoration, 
 receiving a stall at Chichester, and afterwards a 
 more valuable one at Christ Church. He served 
 the office of Vice-Chancellor of the University in 
 1666, and, in 1675, was made Bishop of Oxford. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 170.] 4 [See ante, p. 208.] 
 
 5 [These prolonged state feasts were apparently 
 not confined to Hamburgh. "On the 19th of 
 
214 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1661 
 
 was no great excess of drinking, no man 
 being obliged to take more than he liked. 
 
 22nd May. The Scotch Covenant was 
 burnt by the common hangman in divers 
 places in London. Oh, prodigious change ! 
 
 29M. This was the first anniversary 
 appointed by Act of Parliament 1 to be 
 observed as a day of General Thanksgiv- 
 ing for the miraculous restoration of his 
 Majesty : our vicar preaching on Psalm 
 cxviii. 24, requiring us to be thankful and 
 rejoice, as indeed we had cause. 
 
 ajhjune. Came Sir Charles Harbord, 
 his Majesty's surveyor, to take an account 
 of what grounds I challenged at Sayes 
 Court. 
 
 27th. I saw the Portugal Ambassador 
 at dinner with his Majesty in state, where 
 was excellent music. 
 
 2nd July. I went to see the New 
 Spring-Garden, at Lambeth, a pretty con- 
 trived plantation." 
 
 igtn. We tried our Diving-Bell, or 
 engine, in the water-dock at Deptford, in 
 which our curator continued half an hour 
 under water ; it was made of cast lead, let 
 down with a strong cable. 
 
 yd August. Came my Lord Hatton, 
 Comptroller of his Majesty's household, to 
 visit me. 3 
 
 9M. I tried several experiments on the 
 sensitive plant 4 and humilis, which con- 
 tracted with the least touch of the sun 
 through a burning-glass, though it rises and 
 opens only when it shines on it. 
 
 I first saw the famous Queen Pine 5 
 brought from Barbadoes, and presented to 
 his Majesty ; but the first that were ever 
 seen in England were those sent to Crom- 
 well four years since. 
 
 February [1664] the Tsar invited Lord Carlisle 
 [see post, under 29th December, 1662] and his suite 
 to a dinner, which, beginning at two o'clock, lasted 
 till eleven, when it was prematurely broken up by 
 the Tsar's nose beginning to bleed " (Birrell's 
 Andrew Marvell, 1905, 112).] 
 
 1 [12 Car. II. c. 14.] 
 
 2 Afterwards opened by Jonathan Tyers in June, 
 1732, as Vauxhali Gardens. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 149 «.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 176.] ■ 
 
 5 Aprint was engraved in 1823 by Robert Graves, 
 from a picture attributed to Henry Danckers at 
 Strawberry-Hill, representing King Charles II. 
 receiving this fruit from John Rose his gardener, 
 who ispresenting it on his knees at Dawney Court, 
 Buckinghamshire, the seat of the Duchess of 
 Cleveland. See post, under 19th August, 1668. 
 
 I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Grays Inn, 1 
 whose curiosity excelled in clocks and 
 pendules, especially one that had innumer- 
 able motions, and played nine or ten tunes 
 on the bells very finely, some of them set 
 in parts ; which was very harmonious. It 
 was wound up but once in a quarter. He 
 had also good telescopes and mathematical 
 instruments, choice pictures, and other 
 curiosities. Thence, we went to that 
 famous mountebank, Jo. Punteus. 
 
 Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one 
 of us his Discourse of the Vegetation of 
 Plants ; 2 and Mr. Henshaw, his History 
 of Salt-Petre and Gunpowder. I assisted 
 him to procure his place of French Secre- 
 tary to the King, which he purchased of 
 Sir Henry De Vic. 3 
 
 I went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. 
 Prujean, 4 who showed me his laboratory, 
 his work-house for turning, and other 
 mechanics ; also many excellent pictures, 
 especially the Magdalen of Caracci ; and 
 some incomparable paysages done in dis- 
 temper ; he played to me likewise on the 
 polythore, an instrument having something 
 of the harp, lute, and theorbo ; by none 
 known in England, nor described by any 
 author, nor used, but by this skilful and 
 learned Doctor. 
 
 15/A. I went to Tunbridge - Wells, 
 my wife being there for the benefit of 
 her health. Walking about the solitudes, 
 I greatly admired the extravagant turnings, 
 insinuations, and growth of certain birch 
 trees among the rocks, 
 
 13th September. I presented my Fumi- 
 
 fugium 5 dedicated to his Majesty, who / 
 
 was. pleased that I should publish it by / 
 
 his special commands^eingmuch gratified / 
 
 with it. / 
 
 18M. This day was read our petition to/ 
 his Majesty for his royal grant, authorising 
 
 1 [Dudley Palmer. He was a member of the 
 Royal "Society.] 
 
 2 [De Plantarum Vegetatione, 1661. Digby 
 discovered the necessity of oxygen to the life of 
 plants.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 23.] 
 
 4 [Sir Francis Prujean, 1593-1666, President of 
 the College of Physicians. He was knighted in 
 this year.] 
 
 5 Fumifugium: or, the Inconveniencie 0/ the 
 Aer and Smoak 0/ London dissipated, etc., 1661. 
 This pamphlet having become scarce, was in 1772 
 reprinted in 4to, and is now incorporated in 
 Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 
 205-42. 
 
i66i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 215 
 
 our Society to meet as a corporation, with 
 several privileges. 1 
 
 An exceeding sickly, wet autumn^/ 
 
 <((f 1st October. I sailed this morning with 
 his Majesty in one of his yachts (or 
 pleasure-boats), vessels not known among 
 us till the Dutch East India Company 
 presented that curious piece to the King ; 
 being very excellent sailing vessels. It 
 was on a wager between his other new 
 pleasure-boat, built frigate-like, and one of 
 the Duke of York's ; the wager ;£ioo ; the 
 a race from Greenwich to Gravesend and 
 rNback. The King lost in going, the wind 
 being contrary, but saved stakes in return- 
 ing. There were divers noble persons and 
 lords on board, his Majesty sometimes 
 steering himself. His barge and kitchen - 
 boat attended. I brake fast this morning 
 with the King at return in his smaller 
 vessel, he being pleased to take me and 
 only four more, who were noblemen, with 
 him ; but dined in his yacht, where we all 
 eat together with his Majesty. In this 
 passage he was pleased to discourse to me 
 about my book inveighing against the 
 nuisance of the smoke of London, and 
 proposing expedients how, by removing 
 those particulars I mentioned, 2 it might 
 be reformed ; commanding me to prepare 
 a Bill against the next session of Parlia- 
 ment, being, as he said, resolved to have 
 something done in it. Then he discoursed 
 to me of the improvement of gardens and 
 buildings, now very rare in England com- 
 paratively to other countries. He then 
 commanded me to draw up the matter of 
 fact happening at the bloody encounter 
 which then had newly happened between 
 the French and Spanish Ambassadors near 
 the Tower, 3 contending for precedency, at 
 the reception of the Swedish Ambassador ; 
 giving me order to consult Sir William 
 Compton, Master of the Ordnance, 4 to 
 inform me of what he knew of it, and 
 with his favourite, Sir Charles Berkeley, 5 
 
 1 [The King granted a Charter to the Royal 
 Society, 15th July, 1662. This being insufficient 
 in some particulars, a new patent was substituted, 
 22nd April, 1663.I 
 
 2 In Fumifugium. 
 
 3 [The French Ambassador was Louis Godefroy, 
 Count D'Estrades ; the Spanish, the Baron de 
 Watteville, Vatteville, or Bateville.] 
 
 4 [Sir William Compton, 1625-63. He had taken 
 part in the Kentish Rising (see ante, p. 146).] 
 
 5 Subsequently that Earl of Falmouth who was 
 
 captain of the Duke's life-guard, then 
 present with his troop and three foot- 
 companies ; with some other reflections 
 and instructions, to be prepared with a 
 declaration to take off the reports which 
 went about of his Majesty's partiality in 
 the affairs, and of his officers' and specta- 
 tors' rudeness whilst the conflict lasted. 
 So I came home that night, and went next 
 morning to London, where from the officers 
 of the Tower, Sir William Compton, Sir 
 Charles Berkeley, and others who were 
 attending at this meeting of the Ambassa- 
 dors three days before, having collected 
 what I could, I drew up a narrative in 
 vindication of his Majesty, and the carriage 
 of his officers and standers-by. 
 
 On Thursday, his Majesty sent one of 
 the pages of the back stairs for me to wait 
 on him with my papers, in his cabinet, 
 where was present only Sir Henry Bennet 1 
 (Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to 
 his Majesty what I had drawn up, by the 
 time I had read half a page, came in Mr. 
 Secretary Morice 2 with a large paper, 
 desiring to speak with his Majesty, who 
 told him he was now very busy, and there- 
 fore ordered him to come again some other 
 time ; the Secretary replied that what he 
 had in his hand was of extraordinary im- 
 portance. So the King rose up, and, com- 
 manding me to stay, went aside to a corner 
 of the room with the Secretary ; after a 
 while, the Secretary being despatched, his 
 Majesty returning to me at the table, a 
 letter was brought him from Madame out 
 of France : 3 this he read and then bid me 
 proceed from where I left off. This I did 
 till I had ended all the narrative, to his 
 Majesty's great satisfaction ; and, after I 
 had inserted one or two more clauses, in 
 which his Majesty instructed me, com- 
 manded that it should that night be sent 
 to the Post-house, directed to the Lord 
 Ambassador at Paris (the Earl of St. 
 Albans), 4 and then at leisure to prepare 
 him a copy, which he would publish. 5 
 
 killed by the side of the Duke of York in the 
 first Dutch war. He was Treasurer of the House- 
 hold (see post, under 21st January, 1663). 
 
 1 [Sir Henry Bennet, 1618-85, afterwards first 
 Earl of Arlington, 1663, and Secretary of State, 
 1662-74.] 
 
 2 [See post, under 10th September, 1663.] 
 
 3 His sister Henrietta. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 5 [It was entitled A Faithful and Impartial 
 
2l6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEL YN 
 
 [1661 
 
 This I did, and immediately sent my 
 papers to the Secretary of State, with his 
 Majesty's express command of despatching 
 them that night for France. Before I 
 went out of the King's closet, he called me 
 back to show me some ivory statues, and 
 other curiosities that I had not seen before. 
 
 yd October. Next evening, being in 
 the withdrawing-room adjoining the bed- 
 chamber, his Majesty espying me came to 
 me from a great crowd of noblemen stand- 
 ing near the fire, and asked me if I had 
 done ; and told me he feared it might be 
 a little too sharp, on second thoughts ; for 
 he had that morning spoken with the 
 French Ambassador, who it seems had 
 palliated the matter, and was very tame ; 
 and therefore directed me where I should 
 soften a period or two, before it was 
 published (as afterwards it was). This 
 night also he spake to me to give him a 
 sight of what was sent, and to bring it to 
 him in his bedchamber ; which I did, and 
 received it again from him at dinner, next 
 day. By Saturday, having finished it with 
 all his Majesty's notes, the King being 
 gone abroad, I sent the papers to Sir 
 Henry Bennet (Privy- Purse and a great 
 favourite), and slipped home, being myself 
 much indisposed and harassed with going 
 about, and sitting up to write. 
 
 igt/i. I went to London to visit my 
 Lord of Bristol, 1 having been with Sir 
 John Denham (his Majesty's surveyor) 2 to 
 consult with him about the placing of his 
 palace at Greenwich, which I would have 
 
 Narrative of what passed at the Landing of the 
 Swedish A mbassador, and is reprinted at the close 
 of this volume, * Appendix V. A chapter is also 
 devoted to this episode in M. Jusserand's excellent 
 French Ambassador at the Court of Charles II., 
 1802, pp. 17-32.] 
 
 1 George Digby, second Earl of Bristol, 1612-77. 
 Horace Walpole thus smartly sums up his character : 
 "He wrote against Popery, and embraced it; he 
 was a zealous opposer of the court, and a sacrifice 
 for it : was conscientiously converted in the midst 
 of his prosecution of lord Strafford, and was most 
 unconscientiously a prosecutor of lord Clarendon. 
 With great parts, he always hurt himself and his 
 friends ; witji romantic bravery, he was always an 
 unsuccessful commander. He spoke for the test- 
 act, though a Roman Catholic, and addicted him- 
 self to astrology on the birth-day of true philosophy " 
 {Royal and Noble Authors, 1806, vol. iii. pp. 205-6). 
 Grammont mentions him, but in terms far from 
 respectful: nor does he appear to more advantage 
 in the annals of Bussy, or in the continuation of 
 his life by Clarendon. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 173.] 
 
 had built between the river and the Queen's 
 house, so as a large square cut should have 
 let in the Thames like a bay ; but Sir John 
 was for setting it on piles at the very brink 
 of the water, which I did not assent to ; 
 and so came away, knowing Sir John to be 
 a better poet than architect, though he had 
 Mr. Webbe 1 (Inigo Jones's man) to assist 
 him. 
 
 291/1. I saw the Lord Mayor 2 pass in 
 his water triumph to Westminster, being 
 the first solemnity of this nature after 
 twenty years. 
 
 2nd November. Came Sir Henry Bennet, 
 since Lord Arlington, to visit me, and to 
 acquaint me that his Majesty would do me 
 the honour to come and see my garden ; 
 but, it being then late, it was deferred. 
 
 yd. One Mr. Breton 3 preached his 
 probation -sermon at our parish -church, 
 and indeed made a most excellent dis- 
 course on John i. 29, of God's free grace 
 to penitents, so that I could not but re- 
 commend him to the patron. 
 
 \oth. In the afternoon, preached at the 
 Abbey Dr. Basire, that great traveller, or 
 rather French Apostle, 4 who had been 
 planting the Church of England in divers 
 parts of the Levant and Asia. He showed 
 that the Church of England was, for purity 
 of doctrine, substance, decency, and beauty, 
 the most perfect under Heaven ; that 
 England was the very land of Goshen. 
 
 wth. I was so idle as to go to see a 
 play called Love and Honour. 5 — Dined at 
 
 1 [John Webbe, 161 1-72, Inigo Jones's pupil 
 (cf. Pepys's Diary, March 4, 1664).] 
 
 2 Sir John Frederick, Knight and Baronet. The 
 account of the pageant for this day was published 
 in London's Triump/ts . . . at the costs and 
 charges of the Worshipfull Company of Grocers. 
 By John Tatham, 1661, 4to (see Gentleman's 
 Magazine for December, 1824, p. 516). John 
 Tatham, 1632-64, was a poet and dramatist who 
 wrote the City pageants, 1657-64. 
 
 3 [Rev. Robert Breton, d. 1672. He obtained 
 the living of Deptford, succeeding the Rev. Robert 
 Littler (see ante, p. 200). Pepys writes of him on 
 June s, 1663 : — " To Deptford, where Dr. Britton, 
 parson oC the town, a fine man and good company, 
 dined with us, and good discourse." "A very 
 useful charitable man," Evelyn calls him elsewhere 
 (see 2X9,0 post, under 20th February, 1672).] 
 
 4 Dr. Isaac Basire, 1607-76. After various pre- 
 ferments and honours, the disturbed state of the 
 country induced him to quit England, and he 
 travelled in the Morea, to the Holy Land, and 
 to Constantinople. On his return, Charles II. 
 appointed him his Chaplain in Ordinary. 
 
 5 A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant, 
 
i66i] 
 
 THE DIA R Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 217 
 
 Arundel House ; and that evening dis- 
 coursed with his Majesty about shipping, 
 in which he was exceeding skilful. 
 
 1 $th November. I dined with the Duke of 
 Ormonde, who told me there were no moles 
 in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that 
 but in one county ; but it was a mistake 
 that spiders would not live there, only 
 they were not poisonous. Also, that they 
 frequently took salmon with dogs. 
 
 1 6th. I presented my translation of 
 Naudceus concerning Libraries to my Lord 
 Chancellor ; but it was miserably false 
 
 ijl/t. Dr. Creighton, 2 a Scot, author 
 of the Florentine Council, and a most 
 eloquent man and admirable Grecian, 
 preached on Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the 
 return and restoration of the Church and 
 King. 
 
 20th. At the Royal Society, Sir William 
 Petty proposed divers things for the im- 
 provement of shipping ; a versatile keel 
 that should be on hinges, and concerning 
 sheathing ships with thin lead. 3 
 
 24//Z. This night his Majesty fell into 
 discourse with me concerning bees, etc. 
 
 26th. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark 
 played ; 4 but now the old plays began to 
 disgust this refined age, since his Majesty's 
 being so long abroad. 
 
 first acted at the Blackfriars, 1649 "» the performance 
 took place in the morning. ' 
 
 1 {Instructions concerning Erecting of a Library: 
 presented to My Lord the President de Mesme. 
 By Gabriel Naudeus, P. and now interpreted by 
 Jo. Evelyn, Esquire. London : 1661. [It was a 
 translation of Gabriel Naude's Avis pour dresser 
 une Bibliotheque, 1627.] Pepys, to whom the 
 author gave a copy in 1665, comments as fol- 
 lows : — Reading a book of Mr. Evelyn's trans- 
 lating . . . about directions for gathering a 
 Library ; but the book is above my reach " (Diary, 
 October 5, 1665).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 3 [See post, under 22nd December, 1664. Sir 
 William Petty, 1623-87, was a very versatile pro- 
 jector, physician, and political economist. Acqui- 
 escing in the Restoration, after a chequered career, 
 he was knighted, became Commissioner of the 
 Court of Claims, opened lead mines, established 
 pilchard fisheries, and assisted in the Councils of 
 the Royal Society. He wrote a method for 
 equalising taxation, and acted as president of a 
 philosophical society established in Dublin. See 
 post, under 22nd March, 1675, where his character 
 is drawn at large.] 
 
 4 [Pepys seems to have been the following day 
 (27th November, 1661). Earlier in the year he had 
 seen Betterton act the Prince ' ' beyond imagination " 
 at the Opera (August 24, 1661).] 
 
 2%th. I dined at Chifnnch's 1 house- 
 warming, in St. James's Park ; he was his 
 Majesty's closet-keeper, and had his new 
 house full of good pictures, etc. There 
 dined with us Russell, Popish Bishop of 
 Cape Verd, who was sent out to negotiate 
 his Majesty's match with the Infanta of 
 Portugal, after the Ambassador was re- 
 turned. 2 
 
 29M. I dined at the Countess of Peter- 
 borough's, and went that evening to Par- 
 son's Green with my Lord Mordaunt, 3 
 with whom I stayed that night. 
 
 1st December. I took leave of my Lord 
 Peterborough, 4 going now to Tangier, which 
 was to be delivered to the English on the 
 match with Portugal. 
 
 yd. By universal suffrage of our philo- 
 sophic assembly, an order was made and 
 registered, that I should receive their public 
 thanks for the honourable mention I made 
 of them by the name of Royal Society, in ,j 
 my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chan- r 
 cellor, before my Traduction of Naudceus. 5 
 Too great an honour for a trifle. 
 
 4tk. I had much discourse with the 
 Duke of York, concerning strange cures he 
 affirmed of a woman who swallowed a 
 whole ear of barley, which worked out at 
 her side. I told him of the knife swallowed* 
 and the pins. 
 
 I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, 
 now going in the fleet to bring over our 
 new Queen. 
 
 ytli. I dined at Arundel House, the day 
 when the great contest in Parliament was 
 concerning the restoring the Duke of Nor- 
 folk ; however, it was carried for him. I 
 also presented my little trifle of Sumptuary 
 Laws, entitled Tyrannus or The Mode. 1 
 
 1 [Thomas Chiffinch, 1600-66. He had been 
 page to Charles I.] 
 
 2 [See below, 4th December.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 193.] 
 
 4 [Henry Mordaunt, second Earl of Peter- 
 borough, 1624-97. He resigned his Governorship 
 in a few months.] 
 
 5 [See ante, under 16th November. 
 
 6 This refers to the Dutchman, ante, p. 18, and 
 to an extraordinary case contained in a ' Miracu- 
 lous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, etc., by 
 Dan. Lakin, P.C." 4to, London, 1642, with a wood- 
 cut representing the object of the cure, and the size 
 of the knife. 
 
 7 {Tyrannus or the Mode; in a Discourse of 
 Sumptuary Lawes. London, 1661. It is reprinted 
 at pp. 308-20 of vol. ii. of the 4to Diary of 181 9 
 (second edition).] 
 
2l8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1662 
 
 14th. December. I saw otter-hunting with 
 the King, and killed one. 
 
 16th. I saw a French Comedy acted at 
 Whitehall. 
 
 20th. The Bishop of Gloucester 1 preached 
 at the Abbey, at the funeral of the Bishop 
 of Hereford, 2 brother to the Duke of Albe- 
 marle. It was a decent solemnity. There 
 was a silver mitre, with episcopal robes, 
 borne by the herald before the hearse, 
 which was followed by the Duke his 
 brother, and all the Bishops, with divers 
 noblemen. 
 
 jA*b,~$rd. I heard an Italian play and sing 
 rsfj^to the guitar with extraordinary skill before 
 yF the Duke. 
 
 166 1-2 : 1st January. I went to London, 
 invited to the solemn foolery of the Prince 
 de la Grange, at Lincoln's Inn, where came 
 the King, Duke, etc. It began with a 
 grand masque, and a formal pleading 
 before the mock Princes, Grandees, Nobles, 
 and Knights of the Sun. He had his 
 Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, 
 and other Royal Officers, gloriously clad 
 and attended. It ended in a magnificent 
 banquet. One Mr. Lort was the young 
 spark who maintained the pageantry. 3 
 
 6th. This evening, according to custom, 
 ^his Majesty opened the revels of that night 
 J by throwing the dice himself in the Privy- 
 Chamber, where was a table set on purpose, 
 and lost his £ 100. (The year before he won 
 ^1500. ) The ladies also played very deep. 
 I came away when the Duke of Ormonde 
 had won about ^"iooo, and left them still 
 at passage, cards, etc. At other tables, 
 both there and at the Groom - porter's, 
 observing the wicked folly and monstrous 
 excess of passion amongst some losers ; 
 sorry am I that such a wretched custom as 
 play to that excess should be countenanced 
 in a Court, which ought to be an example 
 of virtue to the rest of the Kingdom. 
 ^Jrgth. I saw acted The Third Part of the 
 *c Siege of Rhodes.^ In this acted the fair 
 
 1 Dr. William Nicholson, 1591-1672 ; Bishop of 
 Gloucester, 1661-72. 
 
 2 [Dr. Nicholas Monck, 1610-61 ; Bishop of Here- 
 ford, 1660-61.] 
 
 3 [See next entry, and post, under 9th January, 
 1668. Further particulars with regard to these 
 "solemn fooleries" are to be found in Herbert's 
 Antiquities of the Inns of Court, etc., 1804, 314; 
 and Douthwaite's Grays Inn, 1876, pp. 63-73.] 
 
 * [The Siege of Rhodes was a tragi-comedy in 
 Tii o Parts, by Sir William Davenant, taken from 
 
 and famous comedian called Roxalana 
 from the part she performed ; l and I think 
 it was the last, she being taken to be the 
 Earl of Oxford's Miss (as at this time they 
 began to call lewd women). It was in 
 recitative music. 
 
 10th. Being called into his Majesty's 
 closet when Mr. Cooper, the rare limner, 2 
 was crayoning of the King's face and head, cu^t 
 to make the stamps for the new milled 
 money now contriving, I had the honour 
 to hold the candle whilst it was doing, he 
 choosing the night and candle - light for 
 the better finding out the shadows. 3 During 
 this, his Majesty discoursed with me on 
 several things relating to painting and 
 graving. 
 
 1 ith. I dined at Arundel House, where 
 I heard excellent musi,g performed by the 
 ablest masters, both French and English, 
 on theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as 
 exercise against the coming of the 
 
 an 
 
 Queen, purposely composed for her chapel. I 
 Afterwards, my Lord Aubigny 4 (her 
 Majesty's Almoner to be) showed us his 
 elegant lodging, and his wheel-chair for 
 ease and motion, with divers other curi- 
 osities ; especially a kind of artificial glass, 
 or porcelain, adorned with relievos of 
 paste, hard and beautiful. Lord Aubigny <Z^* 
 (brother to the Duke of Lennox) was a 
 person of good sense, but wholly aban- 
 doned to ease and effeminacy. 
 
 I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's 
 Attorney, a draught of an Act against the 
 nuisance of the smoke of London, to be 
 reformed by removing several trades which 
 are the cause of it, and endanger the health 
 of the King and his people. It was to have 
 
 Measure for Measure and Much Ado about 
 Nothing. It was acted at the Duke's Theatre in 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields, of which Davenant was, at 
 this date, patentee. With The Siege of Rhodes, 
 English Opera practically begins.] 
 
 1 [Elizabeth Davenport. She had a son by the 
 Earl of Oxford in 1664. There is some account of 
 her in ch. ix. of Cirammont's Memoirs. In the 
 play — says the Globe PePys — the name is " Roxo- 
 lana."] 
 
 2 [Samuel Cooper, 1609-72, the " English Van- 
 dyck " in little, a man of many gifts. Pepys 
 greatly admired him ; and he painted Mrs. Pepys 
 in 1668. In the Royal Collection at Windsor 
 Castle there are notable miniatures by Cooper of 
 Charles II., Monmouth, and Albemarle.] 
 
 3 This scene has been chosen as the subject of a 
 picture by Daniel Maclise. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 163.] 
 
1662] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 219 
 
 been offered to the Parliament, as his 
 Majesty commanded. 1 
 a£-* \ith January. At St. James's chapel 
 preached, or rather harangued, the famous 
 orator, Monsieur Morus, 2 in French. There 
 were present the King, Duke, French Am- 
 bassador, Lord Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and 
 a world of Roman Catholics, drawn thither 
 to hear this eloquent Protestant. 
 
 15M. There was a general fast through 
 the whole nation, and now celebrated in 
 London, to avert God's heavy judgments 
 on this land. /Great rain had fallen with- 
 out any frost, yor seasonable cold, not only 
 in England, but in Sweden, and the most 
 northern parts, being here near as warm as 
 at Midsummer in some years. 
 
 This solemn fast was held for the House 
 of Commons at St. Margaret's. Dr. 
 Ryves, Dean of Windsor, 3 preached on 
 Joshua vii. 12, showing how the neglect of 
 exacting justice on offenders (by which he 
 insinuated such of the old King's murderers 
 as were yet reprieved and in the Tower) 
 was a main cause of God's punishing a 
 land. He brought in that of the Gibeon- 
 ites, as well as Achan and others, conclud- 
 ing with an eulogy of the Parliament for 
 their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and 
 Clergy, and vindicating the Church from 
 sacrilege. 
 
 igfii6th. Having notice of the Duke of 
 toiArYork's intention to visit my poor habitation 
 and garden this day, I returned, when 
 he was pleased to do me that honour 
 of his own accord, and to stay some time 
 viewing such things as I had to enter- 
 tain his curiosity. Afterwards, he caused 
 me to dine with him at the Treasurer of 
 the Navy's house, and to sit with him 
 covered at the same table. There were 
 his Highness, the Duke of Ormonde, and 
 several Lords. Then they viewed some of 
 my grounds about a project for a receptacle 
 for ships to be moored in, which was laid 
 aside as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. 4 
 After this, I accompanied the Duke to an 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 215.] 
 
 2 Probably Alexander Morus (the antagonist of 
 Milton), who was here in 1662. 
 
 » [Dr. Bruno Ryves, 1596-1677, Dean of Wind- 
 sor, 1660-77, Chaplain in Ordinary to Charles II. 
 He had published in 1642 the Royalist Mercurius 
 Nt/sticus.] 
 
 ■* [See ante, p. 187, and Pepys's Diary, 25th 
 January, 1662.] 
 
 East India vessel that lay at Black wall, 
 where we had entertainment of several 
 curiosities. Amongst other spirituous 
 drinks, as punch, etc., they gave us 
 Canary that had been carried to and 
 brought from the Indies, which was in- 
 deed incomparably good. I returned to 
 London with his Highness. This night 
 was acted before his Majesty The 11 zdow, 
 a lewd play. 1 
 
 18th. I came home to be private a 
 little, not at all affecting the life and hurry 
 of Court. 
 
 24//*. His Majesty entertained me with 
 his intentions of building his Palace of 
 Greenwich, and quite demolishing the old 
 one ; on which I declared my thoughts. 
 
 25M. I dined with the Trinity-Company 
 at their house, that Corporation being by 
 charter fixed at Deptford. 
 
 $rd February. I went to Chelsea, to 
 see Sir Arthur Gorges' house. 2 
 
 nth. I saw a comedy acted before the 
 Duchess of York at the Cockpit. The 
 King was not at it. 
 
 i*]th. I went with my Lord of Bristol 
 to see his house at Wimbledon, 3 newly 
 bought of the Queen-Mother, to help con- 
 trive the garden after the modern. It is 
 a delicious place for prospect and the 
 thickets, but the soil cold and weeping 
 clay. Returned that evening with Sir 
 Henry Bennet. 
 
 This night was buried in Westminster- 
 Abbey the Queen of Bohemia, 4 after all 
 her sorrows and afflictions being come to 
 die in the arms of her nephew, the King : 
 also this night and the next day fell such a 
 storm of hail, thunder, and lightning, as 
 
 1 [A Comedy by Ben Jonson, Fletcher, and 
 Middleton. Pepys saw it in January, 1661.] 
 
 2 [Beaufort House, Chelsea (see post, under 3rd 
 September, 1683).] 
 
 * Lord Bristol (see ante, p. 216) bought Wimble- 
 don House of Henrietta Maria in 1661. It was 
 eventually purchased by Sarah, Duchess of 
 Marlborough, who erected a new building, which 
 was burned down in 1785. The property after- 
 wards passed to the Spencer family, who sub- 
 stituted a smaller house designed by Henry 
 Holland. There are two scarce and curious views 
 of the old house, engraved by Winstanley, and 
 dated 1678. 
 
 4 Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, daughter of 
 James I., the unfortunate " Queen of Hearts," 
 many of whose letters are included in the corre- 
 spondence of Evelyn. She died at Leicester 
 House, Leicester Fields, on the 12th (see Pepys's 
 Diary, 13th February, 1662, and ante, p. 12). 
 
220 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1662 
 
 never was seen the like in any man's 
 memory, especially the tempest of wind, 
 being south-west, which subverted, besides 
 huge trees, many houses, innumerable 
 chimneys (amongst others that of my 
 parlour at Sayes Court), and made such 
 havoc at land and sea, that several perished 
 on both. Divers lamentable fires were 
 also kindled at this time ; so exceedingly 
 was God's hand against this ungrateful and 
 vicious nation and Court. 
 
 20th February. I returned home to 
 repair my house, miserably shattered by 
 the late tempest. 
 
 24/72 March. I returned home with my 
 whole family, which had been most part 
 of the winter, since October, at London, in 
 lodgings near the Abbey of Westminster. 
 
 6th April. Being of the Vestry, in the 
 afternoon we ordered that the communion- 
 table should be set (as usual) altar-wise, 
 with a decent rail in front, as before the 
 Rebellion. 
 
 17th. The young Marquis of Argyll, 1 
 whose turbulent father was executed in 
 Scotland, came to see my garden. He 
 seemed a man of par1;s. 
 
 Jth May. I waited on Prince Rupert to 
 our Assembly, where were tried several 
 experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum. A 
 man thrusting in his arm, upon exhaustion 
 of the air, had his flesh immediately 
 swelled so as the blood was near bursting 
 the veins : he drawing it out, we found it 
 all speckled. 
 
 14M. To London, being chosen one of 
 the Commissioners for reforming the build- 
 ings, ways, streets, and incumbrances, and 
 regulating the hackney coaches in the City 
 of London, taking my oath before my 
 Lord Chancellor, and then went to his 
 Majesty's Surveyor's Office, in Scotland- 
 Yard, about naming and establishing 
 officers, adjourning till the 16th, when I 
 went to view how St. Martin's Lane might 
 be made more passable into the Strand. 
 There were divers gentlemen of quality in 
 this commission. 
 
 1 Archibald Campbell, ninth Earl, d. 1685, who, 
 notwithstanding his father's attainder, which for- 
 feited the marquisate, was permitted to inherit the 
 ancient Earldom of his family. Evelyn seems at 
 once to have discovered him in this interview to be 
 "a man of parts." And he greatly deplored his 
 subsequent execution for treason (see Macaulay's 
 History of England ', 1866, vol. i. ch. v.). 
 
 25///. I went this evening to London, 
 in order to our journey to Hampton Court, 
 to see the new Queen, who, having landed 
 at Portsmouth, had been married to the 
 King a week before by the Bishop of 
 London. 1 
 
 loth. The Queen arrived with a train 
 of Portuguese ladies in their monstrous 
 fardingales, or guard-infantes, 2 their com- 
 plexions olivader 3 and sufficiently unagree- 
 able. Her Majesty in the same habit, 
 her fore-top long and turned aside very 
 strangely. 4 She was yet of the handsomest 
 countenance of all the rest, and, though 
 low of stature, prettily shaped, languishing 
 and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her 
 mouth by sticking a little too far out ; for 
 the rest, lovely enough. 
 
 31st. I saw the Queen at dinner; the 
 Judges came to compliment her arrival, 
 and, after them, the Duke of Ormonde 
 brought me to kiss her hand. 
 
 2nd June. The Lord Mayor and Alder- 
 men made their addresses to the Queen, 
 presenting her ^"1000 in gold. Now saw I 
 her Portuguese ladies, and the Guarda- 
 damas, or Mother of her Maids, 5 and the 
 old knight, a lock of whose hair quite 
 covered the rest of his bald pate, bound on 
 by a thread, very oddly. I saw the rich 
 gondola sent to his Majesty from the State 
 of Venice ; but it was not comparable for 
 swiftness to our common wherries, though 
 managed by Venetians. 
 
 1 [The Queen arrived at Portsmouth on 13th 
 May. The King joined her there on the 20th. 
 They were married privately next day, according 
 to the rites of the Roman Church, by her Almoner, 
 Stuart d'Aubigny, in the presence of Philip 
 Howard and others. The Bishop of London 
 (Sheldon) afterwards pronounced them man and 
 wife.] 
 
 2 [See note from Lassels, p. 55.] 
 
 3 " Olivader " is a dark olive complexion. Gram- 
 mont is very uncomplimentary to these poor ladies. 
 He styles them "six frights, who called them- 
 selves maids of honour, and a duenna, another 
 monster, who took the title of governess to these 
 extraordinary beauties" {Memoirs, ch. vi.). 
 
 4 [Which made King Charles say they had 
 brought him "a bat instead of a woman." But 
 he thought her eyes "excellent good." "She 
 hath as much agreeableness in her looks as ever I 
 saw," he wrote, "and if 1 have any skill in 
 physiognomy, which I think I have, she must be 
 as good a woman as ever was born."] 
 
 5 The Maids of Honour had a Mother at least 
 as early as the reign of Elizabeth. The office is 
 supposed to have been abolished about the period 
 of the Revolution of 1688. 
 
1662] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 221 
 
 qth June. Went to visit the Earl of 
 Bristol, at Wimbledon. 1 
 
 8th. I saw her Majesty at supper 
 privately in her bedchamber. 2 
 
 gth. I heard the Queen's Portugal 
 music, consisting of pipes, harps, and very 
 ill voices. 
 
 Hampton Court is as noble and uniform 
 a pile, and as capacious as any Gothic 
 architecture can have made it. There is 
 an incomparable furniture in it, especially 
 hangings designed by Raphael, very rich 
 with gold ; also many rare pictures, 
 especially the Cesarean Triumphs of 
 Andrea Mantegna, formerly the Duke of 
 Mantua's ; of the tapestries, I believe the 
 world can show nothing nobler of the kind 
 than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. 
 The gallery of horns is very particular for 
 the vast beams of stags, elks, antelopes, 
 etc. The Queen's bed was an embroidery 
 of silver on crimson velvet, and cost 
 ,£8000, being a present made by the States 
 of Holland when his Majesty returned, and 
 had formerly been given by them to our 
 King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, 
 being bought of her again, was now pre- 
 sented to the King. The great looking- 
 glass and toilet, of beaten and massive 
 gold, was given by the Queen -Mother. 
 The Queen brought over with her from 
 Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never 
 before been seen here. The great hall is 
 a most magnificent room. The chapel- 
 roof excellently fretted and gilt. I was 
 also curious to visit the wardrobe and 
 tents, and other furniture of state. The 
 park, formerly a flat and naked piece of 
 ground, now planted with sweet rows of 
 lime trees ; and the canal for water now 
 near perfected ; also the hare-park. In 
 the garden is a rich and noble fountain, 
 with Sirens, statues, etc., cast" in copper, 
 by Fanelli ; but no plenty of water. The 
 cradle-work of hornbeam in the garden is, 
 for the perplexed twining of the trees, very 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 219. 1 
 
 - [At Hampton Court (see ante, p. 145), which 
 had been remodelled and refurnished by Charles 
 II. (see ahopost, under 23rd August). Before the 
 Restoration it had been occupied by Cromwell 
 {ante, p. 191 «.). In November, t657> his daughter 
 Mary had been married there to Thomas Belasyse, 
 Lord Fauconberg ; and at Hampton Court (6th 
 August, 1658), four weeks before his own death, 
 died his favourite daughter, Elizabeth Claypole.] 
 
 observable. There is a parterre which 
 they call Paradise, in which is a pretty 
 banqueting-house set over a cave, or cellar. 
 All these gardens might be exceedingly 
 improved, as being too narrow for such a 
 palace. 
 
 10th. I returned to London, and pre- 
 sented my History of Chalcography (dedi- 
 cated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society. 1 
 
 H)tk. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. 
 Henry Howard, 2 soon after he had pro- 
 cured the Dukedom to be restored. This 
 gentleman had now compounded a debt of 
 ^200,000, contracted by his grandfather. 3 
 I was much obliged to that great virtuoso, 
 and to this young gentleman, with whom 
 I stayed a fortnight. 
 
 2nd July. We hunted and killed a buck 
 in the park, Mr. Howard inviting most of 
 the gentlemen of the country near him. 
 
 yd. My wife met me at Woodcote, 
 whither Mr. Howard accompanied me to 
 see my son John, who had been much 
 brought up amongst Mr. Howard's children 
 at Arundel House, till, for fear of their 
 perverting him in the Catholic religion, I 
 was forced to take him home. 
 
 8th. To London, to take leave of the 
 Duke and Duchess of Ormonde, going 
 then into Ireland with an extraordinary 
 retinue. 
 
 13th. Spent some time with the Lord 
 Chancellor, where I had discourse with my 
 Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbadoes, 4 
 concerning divers particulars of that colony. 
 
 28th. His Majesty going to sea to 
 meet the Queen- Mother, now coming again 
 for England, 5 met with such ill weather as 
 greatly endangered him. I went to Green- 
 wich, to wait on the Queen, now landed. 
 
 30th. To London, where was a meeting 
 about Charitable Uses, and particularly 
 to inquire how the City had disposed of 
 the revenues of Gresham College, and 
 why the salaries of the professors there 
 were no better improved. I was on this 
 
 1 [Sculptura : or the History, and Art of 
 Chalcography and Engraving in Copper . . . To 
 which is annexed a new Manner of Engraving, 
 or Afezzo Tinto, communicated by his Highness 
 Prince Rupert to tlte Authour 0/ this Treatise. 
 London : 1662. See ante, p. 208, and Miscel- 
 laneous Writings, 1825, pp. 243-356.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 128.] s [See ante, pp. 9, 126.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 198.] 
 
 5 [She had left Paris, 25th July.] 
 
222 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1662 
 
 commission, with divers Bishops and Lords 
 of the Council ; but little was the progress 
 we could make. 
 
 ^lstjuly. I sat with the Commissioners 
 about reforming buildings and streets of 
 London, and we ordered the paving of the 
 way from St. James's North, which was 
 a quagmire, and also of the Haymarket 
 about Piccadilly, 1 and agreed upon instruc- 
 tions to be printed and published for the 
 better keeping the streets clean. 
 
 \st August. Mr. H. Howard, his 
 brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, Philip, 2 
 now the Queen's Almoner (all brothers of 
 the Duke of Norfolk, still in Italy), came 
 with a great train, and dined with me ; 
 Mr. H. Howard leaving me with his eldest 
 and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas, for 
 three or four days, my son, John, having 
 been sometime bred up in their father's 
 house. 3 
 
 4J/1. Came to see me the old Countess 
 of Devonshire, 4 with that excellent and 
 worthy person, my Lord her son, from 
 Roehampton. 
 
 $th. To London, and next day to 
 Hampton Court, about my purchase, and 
 took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, 5 now going 
 Ambassador to Portugal. 
 
 13M. Our Charter being now passed 
 under the broad Seal, constituting us a 
 corporation under the name of the Royal 
 Society for the improvement of natural 
 knowledge by experiment, was this day 
 read, and was all that was done this after- 
 noon, being very large. 
 
 \Ofth. I sat on the commission for 
 Charitable Uses, the Lord Mayor and 
 others of the Mercers' Company being 
 summoned, to answer some complaints 
 of the Professors, grounded on a clause 
 in the will of Sir Thomas Gresham, the 
 founder. 
 
 This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with 
 the Earl of St. Albans 6 and many great 
 
 1 [Which Evelyn spells " Piqudillo."] 
 
 2 Since Cardinal at Rome. — Evelyn s Note. 
 (See ante, p. 130.) 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 221.] 
 
 4 Christiana Cavendish, Countess of Devonshire, 
 d. 1675, an ardent Royalist and patron of the wits. 
 She was the widow of William Cavendish, second 
 Earl of Devonshire. Charles II. frequently visited 
 her with the Queen-Mother and the Royal Family. 
 There is a life of her by Thomas Pomfret, 1685. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 165. He was Ambassador to 
 Portugal 1662-63.] 6 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 ladies and persons, was pleased to honour 
 my poor villa with her presence, and to 
 accept of a collation. She was exceedingly 
 pleased, and staid till very late in the 
 evening. 
 
 i$th. Came my Lord Chancellor (the 
 Earl of Clarendon) and his lady, his purse 
 and mace borne before him, to visit me. 
 They were likewise collationed with us 
 and were very merry. They had all been 
 our old acquaintance in exile, and indeed 
 this great person had ever been my 
 friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, 1 was 
 here, too. 
 
 ijt/i. Being the Sunday when the Com- 
 mon Prayer-Book, reformed and ordered 
 to be used for the future, was appointed 
 to be read, and the solemn League and 
 Covenant to be abjured by all the in- 
 cumbents of England under penalty of 
 losing their livings ; 2 our vicar read it 
 this morning. 
 
 20t/t. There were strong guards in the 
 city this day, apprehending some tumults, 
 many of the Presbyterian ministers not 
 conforming. I dined with the Vice- 
 Chamberlain, and then went to see the 
 Queen-Mother, who was pleased to give 
 me many thanks for the entertainment she 
 received at my house, when she recounted 
 to me many observable stories of the 
 sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. 
 
 21st. I was admitted and then sworn 
 one of the Council of the Royal Society, 
 being nominated in his Majesty's original 
 grant to be of this Council for the regula- 
 tion of the Society, and making laws and 
 statutes conducible to its establishment 
 and progress, for which we now set apart 
 every Wednesday morning till they were 
 
 [Henry Hyde, Lord Cornbury, 1638-1709, after- 
 wards second Earl of Clarendon (see post, under 
 17th October, 1664).] 
 
 2 [This was in consequence of the Act of 
 Uniformity, when, in the view of the late Master 
 of Balliol, "a few words introduced into a formula 
 divided the whole people of England against itself." 
 Every incumbent refusing to express by a certain 
 date his unfeigned consent to everything contained 
 in the Common Prayer Book was to be precluded 
 from holding a benefice. "On 24th August (St. 
 Bartholomew's day) about 2000 clergy resigned 
 their cures for conscience' sake, as their oppo- 
 nents had, in the time of Puritan domination, 
 been driven from their cures rather than take 
 the Covenant" (Gardiner's Student's History of 
 England, 1892, 585.) The number is said to be 
 overstated (Annals 0/ England, 1876, 464). 
 
1 662] 
 
 THE DIA R Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 223 
 
 all finished. 1 Lord Viscount Brouncker 2 
 (that excellent mathematician) was also by 
 his Majesty, our founder, nominated our 
 first President. The King gave us the 
 arms of England to be borne in a canton 
 in our arms, and sent us a mace of silver 
 gilt, of the same fashion and bigness as 
 those carried before his Majesty, to be 
 borne before our president on meeting days. 
 It was brought by Sir Gilbert Talbot, 
 Master of his Majesty's Jewel-house. 
 
 22nd Atigust. I dined with my Lord 
 Brouncker and Sir Robert Murray, and 
 then went to consult about a new-modelled 
 ship at Lambeth, the intention being to 
 reduce that art to as certain a method 
 as any other part of architecture. 
 
 2yd. I was spectator of the most 
 magnificent triumph that ever floated on 
 the Thames, 3 considering the innumerable 
 boats and vessels, dressed and adorned 
 with all imaginable pomp, but, above all, 
 the thrones, arches, pageants, and other 
 representations, stately barges of the Lord 
 Mayor and Companies, with various inven- 
 tions, music and peals of ordnance both 
 from the vessels and the shore, going to 
 meet and conduct the new Queen from 
 Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first 
 time of her coming to town. In my 
 opinion, it far exceeded all the Venetian 
 Bucentoras, etc., on the Ascension, when 
 they go to espouse the Adriatic. 4 His 
 Majesty and the Queen came in an antique- 
 shaped open vessel, covered with a state, 
 or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form 
 of a cupola, supported with high Corinthian 
 pillars, wreathed with flowers, festoons 
 and garlands. I was in our new-built 
 vessel sailing amongst them. 
 
 29M. The Council and Fellows of the 
 
 1 [See ante, pp. 208, 215, 222. The Society's 
 full title was The President, Council, and 
 Fellows of the Royal Society of London, for and 
 improving of natural Knowledge." In 1667 Thomas 
 Sprat, afterwards Bishop of Rochester, and one of 
 the original Fellows, wrote its history, which 
 included an Ode by Cowley. Henry Oldenburg, 
 1615-77, was the first Secretary.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 213.] 
 
 3 An account of this solemnity was published in 
 Aqua Triumphalis : being a true relation of the 
 honourable the City 0/ London entertaining their 
 sacred Majesties upon the river of Thames, 
 and welcoming tlteni from Hampton Court to 
 Whitehall, etc. Engraved by John Tatham, 
 Gent., folio, 1662. 
 
 4 [See, ante, p. 117.] 
 
 Royal Society went in a body to White- 
 hall, to acknowledge his Majesty's royal 
 grace in granting our Charter, and vouch- 
 safing to be himself our Founder ; when 
 the President made an eloquent speech, 
 to which his Majesty gave a gracious 
 reply, and we all kissed his hand. Next 
 day, we went in like manner with our 
 address to my Lord Chancellor, who had 
 much promoted our patent : he received us 
 with extraordinary favour. In the evening, 
 I went to the Queen-Mother's Court, and 
 had much discourse with her. 
 
 1st September. Being invited by Lord 
 Berkeley, I went to Durdans, 1 where dined 
 his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, Duchess, 
 Prince Rupert, Prince Edward, and abund- 
 ance of noblemen. I went, after dinner, 
 to visit my brother of Woodcote, 2 my sister 
 having been delivered of a son a little 
 before, but who had now been two days 
 dead. 
 
 qth. Commission for Charitable Uses, 
 my Lord Mayor and Aldermen being again 
 summoned, and the improvements of Sir 
 Thomas Gresham's estate examined. There 
 were present the Bishop of London, the Lord 
 Chief Justice, and the King's Attorney. 
 
 6th. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, 
 Garter King - at - Arms, 3 Mr. Slingsby, 
 Master of the Mint, 4 and several others. 
 
 17th. We now resolved that the Arms 
 of the Society should be a field Argent, 
 with a canton of the arms of England ; the 
 supporters two talbots Argent : crest, an 
 eagle Or holding a shield with the like 
 arms of England, viz. three lions. The 
 words Nullius hi verba.* It was presented 
 to his Majesty for his approbation, and 
 orders given to Garter King -at -Arms to 
 pass the diploma of their office for it. 
 
 20th. I presented a petition to his Majesty 
 about my own concerns, and afterwards 
 accompanied him to Monsieur Lefevre, his 
 chemist (and who had formerly been my 
 master in Paris), 6 to see his accurate pre- 
 paration for the composing Sir Walter 
 Ralegh's rare cordial : he made a learned 
 discourse before his Majesty in French on 
 each ingredient. 
 
 27th. Came to visit me Sir George 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 199.] 2 [At Epsom.] 
 
 a [See post, under 18th August, 1673.] 
 
 4 [See post, under 27th August, 1666.] 
 
 5 [Horace, Ep. I. 1. 14.] 6 [See ante, p. 144.] 
 
224 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1662 
 
 Savile, 1 grandson to the learned Sir Henry 
 Savile, who published St. Chrysostom. 2 Sir 
 George was a witty gentleman, if not a 
 little too prompt and daring. 
 
 3rd October. I was invited to the College 
 of Physicians, where Dr. Merret, 3 a learned 
 man and library-keeper, showed me the 
 library, theatre for anatomy, and divers 
 natural curiosities ; the statue and epigram 
 under it of that renowned physician, Dr. 
 Harvey, discoverer of the circulation of the 
 blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir 
 William Paddy's and other pictures of men 
 famous in their faculty. 
 
 Visited Mr. Wright, 4 a Scotchman, who 
 had lived long at Rome, and was esteemed 
 a good painter. The pictures of the Judges 
 at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are 
 some pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his 
 Majesty's old bedchamber, being Astraea, 
 the St. Catherine, and a chimney-piece in 
 the Queen's privy chamber ; but his best, 
 in my opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius 
 or comedian, whom he has painted in three 
 dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, 
 and a Scotch Highlander in his plaid. 5 It 
 is in his Majesty's dining-room at Windsor. 
 He had at his house an excellent collection, 
 especially that small piece of Correggio, 
 Scotus of de la Marca,' a design of Paolo ; 
 and, above all, those ruins of Polydore, with 
 some good agates and medals, especially a 
 Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. 
 
 1 $tk. I this day delivered my Discourse 
 concerning Forest-Trees to the Society, 6 
 upon occasion of certain queries sent to 
 
 1 Afterwards the celebrated Marquis of Halifax, 
 
 2 [Sir Henry Savile, 1549- 1622. His Chrysostom 
 was published 161013.] 
 
 3 Christopher Merret, 1614 - 95, a celebrated 
 physician and naturalist, and fellow of the Royal 
 Society. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 200.] 
 
 5 A private etching from this picture [now (1907) 
 in the Queen's Presence Chamber at Hampton 
 Court] was made in 1825 by William Hopkins, one 
 of the Court pages. John Lacy, d. 1681, is repre- 
 sented in his three principal characters, namely, 
 Teague, in The Committee ; Scruple, in The 
 Cheats ; and Galliard, in The Variety. He be- 
 longed to Killigrew's company, and was the original 
 actor of " Bayes" of Buckingham's Rehearsal, 167 1. 
 [Pepys mentions him under 9th April, 1667, and 
 elsewhere.] 
 
 6 [Sylva or a Discourse 0/ Forest - Trees, a?id 
 the Propagation 0/ Timber in His Majestie's 
 Dominions. By J. E., Esq. ; As it was Deliver' d 
 in the Royal Society the XVth of October, 
 C/JljCLXIf., upon Occasion of certain Quceries 
 
 us by the Commissioners of his Majesty's 
 Navy, being the first book that was 
 printed by order of the Society, and by 
 their printer, since it was a Corporation. 
 
 16th. I saw Volpone 1 acted at Court 
 before their Majesties. 
 
 21st. To the Queen -Mother's Court, 
 where her Majesty related to us divers 
 passages of her escapes during the Rebellion 
 and wars in England. 
 
 28M. To Court in the evening, where 
 the Queen-Mother, the Queen-Consort, and 
 his Majesty, being advertised of some dis- 
 turbance, forbore to go to the Lord Mayor's 
 show and feast appointed next day, the new 
 Queen not having yet seen that triumph. 
 
 29M. Was my Lord Mayor's Show, 2 
 with a number of sumptuous pageants, 
 speeches, and verses. I was standing in 
 a house in Cheapside against the place 
 prepared for their Majesties. The Prince 
 and heir of Denmark was there, but not 
 our King. There were also the maids of 
 honour. I went to Court this evening, and 
 had much discourse with Dr. Basire, 3 one of 
 his Majesty's chaplains, the great traveller, 
 who showed me the syngraphs and original 
 subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs 
 and Asian churches to our confession. 
 
 4?/i November. I was invited to the 
 wedding of the daughter of Sir George 
 Carteret 4 (the Treasurer of the Navy and 
 King's Vice-Chamberlain), married to Sir 
 Nicholas Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by 
 the Bishop of London, in the Savoy chapel ; 
 after which was an extraordinary feast. 
 
 $th. The Council of the Royal Society 
 met to amend the Statutes, and dined 
 together: afterwards meeting at Gresham 
 College, where was a discourse suggested 
 
 Propou?ided to that Illustrious Assembly, by the 
 Honourable the Principal Officers, and Com- 
 missioners of the Navy. To which is annexed 
 Pomona ; or, an Appendix concerning Fruit- 
 Trees in relation to Cider, the Making and several 
 •ways of Ordering it. Published by express Order 
 of the Royal Society. A Iso Kalendarium Hortense ; 
 or, Gard'ner's Almanac ; directing what he is to 
 do Monethly during the Year. London, 1664.] 
 
 1 [Volpone ; or, the Fox, by Ben Jonson, 1605. 
 Pepys saw this at the King's House on the 14th 
 January, 1665.] 
 
 2 Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart., Cloth- 
 worker. The pageant on this occasion, which was 
 the same as in the preceding year (see note, ante, 
 p. 216), was at the charge of the Clothworkers' 
 Company. 
 
 3 Basire (see ante, p. 216). 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
1 662] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 225 
 
 by me, concerning planting his Majesty's 
 Forest of Dean with oak, now so much 
 exhausted of the choicest ship-timber in the 
 world. 
 
 2.0th November. Dined with the Comp- 
 troller, Sir Hugh Pollard; 1 afterwards saw 
 The Young Admiral' 1 acted before the King. 
 
 21st. Spent the evening at Court, Sir 
 Kenelm Digby giving me great thanks for 
 my Sj/lva. 3 
 
 2jth. Went to London to see the en- 
 trance of the Russian Ambassador, whom 
 his Majesty ordered to be received with 
 much state, the Emperor not only having 
 been kind to his Majesty in his distress, 
 but banishing all commerce with our 
 nation during the Rebellion. 
 
 First, the City Companies and trained 
 Bands were all in their stations : his 
 Majesty's Army and Guards in great 
 order. His Excellency came in a very 
 rich coach, with some of his chief at- 
 tendants ; many of the rest on horseback, 
 clad in their vests, after the Eastern 
 manner, rich furs, caps, and carrying the 
 presents, some carrying hawks, furs, teeth, 
 bows, etc. It was a very magnificent 
 show. 
 
 I dined with the Master of the Mint, 4 
 where was old Sir Ralph Freeman ; 5 
 passing my evening at the Queen-Mother's 
 Court ; at night, saw acted The Com- 
 mittee, a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, 
 where the mimic, Lacy, acted the Irish 
 footman 6 to admiration. 
 
 30M. St. Andrew's day. Invited by 
 the Dean of Westminster 7 to his con- 
 secration-dinner and ceremony, on his 
 being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. 
 Bolton preached in the Abbey Church ; 
 then followed the consecration by the 
 Bishops of London, Chichester, Win- 
 chester, Salisbury, etc. After this, was 
 one of the most plentiful and magnificent 
 dinners that in my life I ever saw ; it cost 
 near ;£6oo as I was informed. Here were 
 the Judges, nobility, clergy, and gentle- 
 
 1 [Sir Hugh Pollard, d. 1666 (see post, under 
 27th November, 1666), Comptroller of the King's 
 Household.] 
 
 2 A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 224.] 
 
 4 Mr. Slingsby (see ante, p. 223).] 
 
 5 Of Betchworth, in Surrey. Query,— Sir Ralph 
 Freeman, the dramatist. 
 
 6 [Teague (see ante, p. 224 «.).] 
 
 7 Dr. John Earle (see ante, p. 145). 
 
 men innumerable, this Bishop being uni- 
 versally beloved for his sweet and gentle 
 disposition. He was author of those 
 Characters which go under the name of 
 Blount. 1 He translated his late Majesty's 
 Icon into Latin, 2 was Clerk of his Closet, 
 Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and yet a 
 most humble, meek, and cheerful man, an 
 excellent scholar and rare preacher. I had 
 the honour to be loved by him. He 
 married me at Paris, during his Majesty's 
 and the Church's exile. 3 When I took 
 leave of him, he brought me to the 
 cloisters in his episcopal habit. I then 
 went to prayers at Whitehall, where I 
 passed that evening. 
 
 1st Dece?nber. Having seen the strange 
 and wonderful dexterity of the sliders on 
 the new canal in St. James's Park, per- 
 formed before their Majesties by divers 
 gentlemen and others with skates, after 
 the manner of the Hollanders, 4 with what 
 swiftness they pass, how suddenly they 
 stop in full career upon the ice ; I went 
 home by water, but not without exceeding 
 difficulty, the Thames being frozen, great 
 flakes of ice encompassing our boat. 
 
 ijth. I saw acted before the King, The 
 Law Against Lovers? 
 
 21st. One of his Majesty's chaplains 
 preached ; after which, instead of the 
 ancient, grave, and solemn wind-music 
 accompanying the organ, was introduced 
 a concert of twenty-four violins between 
 every pause, after the French fantastical 
 light way, better suiting a tavern, or 
 play-house, than a church. This was 
 the first time of change, and now 
 we no more heard the cornet which 
 gave life to the organ ; chat instrument 
 quite left off in which the English were 
 so skilful. I dined at Mr. Povey's, 6 
 
 1 [Micro-cosmographie, or A Peece of the World 
 Discovered ; In Essayes and Characters. London, 
 Printed by William Stansby for Edward Blount x 
 1628.] 
 
 2 [Published in 1649.] 3 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 4 [Blade skates were now first introduced from 
 Holland, where the Cavaliers in exile with 
 Charles II. had learned to use them. Pepys 
 mentions them under 1st and 8th December, 
 1662.] 
 
 5 By Sir William Davenant, a hotch-pot out 
 of Measure for Measure and Much Ado about 
 Nothing. Pepys had seen it in February, 1662. 
 
 6 [Thomas Povey, 1633-85, a Master of Requests 
 from 1662 to accession of James II. — "a nice con- 
 triver of all elegancies and exceedingly formal " 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 THE DIA R Y OF JOHN' E VEL YN 
 
 [1663 
 
 where I talked with Cromer, a great 
 musician. 
 
 23rd December. I went with Sir George 
 Tuke, 1 to hear the comedians con and repeat 
 his new comedy, The Adventures of Five 
 Hours, a play whose plot was taken out 
 of the famous Spanish poet, Calderon. 
 2.7th. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. 2 
 29M. Saw the audience of the Muscovy 
 Ambassador, which was with extraordi- 
 nary state, his retinue being numerous, 
 all clad in vests of several colours, with 
 buskins, after the Eastern manner ! their 
 caps of fur ; tunics, richly embroidered 
 with gold and pearls, made a glorious 
 show. The King being seated under a 
 canopy in the Banqueting-house, the Secre- 
 tary of the Embassy went before the 
 Ambassador in a grave march, holding up 
 his master's letters of credence in a 
 crimson taffeta scarf before his forehead. 
 The Ambassador then delivered it with a 
 profound reverence to the King, who gave 
 it to our Secretary of State : it was written 
 in a long and lofty style. Then came in 
 the presents, borne by 165 of his retinue, 
 consisting of mantles and other large 
 pieces lined with sable, black fox, and 
 ermine ; Persian carpets, the ground cloth 
 of gold and velvet ; hawks, such as they 
 said never came the like ; horses .said to 
 be Persian ; bows and arrows, etc. These 
 borne by so long a train rendered it very 
 extraordinary. Wind-music played all the 
 while in the galleries above. This finished, 
 the Ambassador was conveyed by the 
 master of the ceremonies to York-House, 3 
 where he was treated with a banquet 
 which cost ^200 as I was assured. 3 
 
 (see post, under 6th August, 1666). He is often 
 mentioned by Pepys.] 
 
 1 [Sir Samuel Tuke (see ante, pp. 151, 204, and 
 206. George Tuke was his elder brother).] 
 
 2 [Of Westcombe, Kent. He became a baronet 
 in 1664, when he was M.P. for Lichfield.] 
 
 3 " The Czar of Muscovy sent an Ambassador 
 to compliment King Charles II. on his Restoration. 
 The King sent the Earl of Carlisle [see ante, p. 
 210], as his Ambassador to Moscow, to desire the 
 re-establishment of the ancient privileges of the 
 English merchants at Archangel, which had been 
 taken away by the Czar, who, abhorring the 
 murder of the King's father, accused them as 
 favourers of it. But, by the means of the Czar's 
 ministers, his Lordship was very ill received, and 
 met with what he deemed affronts, and had no 
 success as to his demands, so that at coming away 
 he refused the presents sent him by the Czar. The 
 Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain 
 
 1662-3 : 7th January. At night, I saw 
 the ball in which his Majesty danced with 
 several great ladies. 
 
 8th. I went to see my kinsman, Sir 
 George Tuke's J comedy, acted at the 
 Duke's theatre, which took so universally, 
 that it was acted for some weeks every 
 day, and it was believed it would be worth 
 to the comedians ^"400 or ^500. The 
 plot was incomparable ; but the language 
 stiff and formal. 
 
 10th. I saw a ball again at Court, 
 danced by the King, the Duke, and ladies, 
 in great pomp. 
 
 2 1 st. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the 
 Household, Sir Charles Berkeley's, where 
 were the Earl of Oxford, 2 Lord Belasyse,* 
 Lord Gerard, 4 Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir 
 William Coventry, 5 Dr. Fraizer, 6 Mr. 
 Windham, and others. 
 
 $th February. I saw The Wild Gallant, 
 a comedy ; 7 and was at the great ball at 
 Court, where his Majesty, the Queen, etc., 
 danced. 
 
 6th. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir 
 John Robinson, 9 Lieutenant of the Tower. 
 
 i$th. This night some villains brake 
 into my house and study below, and robbed 
 me to the value of ^"60 in plate, money, 
 and goods ; — this being the third time I 
 have been thus plundered. 
 
 of Lord Carlisle's conduct ; but his Lordship vindi- 
 cated himself so well, that the King told the Ambas- 
 sador he saw no reason to condemn his Lordship's 
 conduct" (Relation of the Embassy by G. M., 
 authenticated by Lord Carlisle, printed 1669). 
 
 1 [Sir Samuel Tuke (see ante, under 23rd Decem- 
 ber, 1662). Pepys was also present on this occa- 
 sion. He too praises the plot, and the absence of 
 ribaldry. Both Betterton and his wife took part in 
 the performance, and the piece ran for thirteen 
 nights without a break.] 
 
 2 [Aubrey de Vere, twentieth and last Earl, 
 1626-1703. He had served as a military officer, 
 both at home and abroad ; and his services were 
 rewarded at the Restoration by a seat at the Privy 
 Council, the dignity of Knight of the Garter, and 
 the appointment of Lord-Lieutenant of Essex. He 
 left an only daughter, married to the Duke of St. 
 Albans. 
 
 3 [John Belasyse, Baron Belasyse, 1614-89, 
 afterwards Governor of Tangier.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 8 [Dr. Alexander Fraizer, i6io?-8i, physician to 
 Charles II. He was knighted soon after the 
 Restoration. Pepys refers to him more than once.] 
 
 7 By Dryden. It was unsuccessful on the first 
 representation in this year, but was subsequently 
 altered to the form in which it now appears. 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
i66 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 22*J 
 
 2btk March. I sat at the Commission of 
 Sewers, where was a great case pleaded 
 by his Majesty's counsel ; he having built 
 a wall over a water-course, denied the 
 jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict 
 went for the plaintiff. 1 
 
 30M April. Came his Majesty to honour 
 my poor villa with his presence, viewing 
 the gardens and even every room of the 
 house, and was pleased to take a small 
 refreshment. There were with him the 
 Duke of Richmond, 2 Earl of St. Albans, 3 
 Lord Lauderdale, 4 and several persons of 
 quality. 
 
 14M May. Dined with my Lord Mor- 
 daunt, 5 and thence went to Barnes, to 
 visit my excellent and ingenious friend, 
 Abraham Cowley. e 
 
 \*]th. I saluted the old Bishop of 
 Durham, Dr. Cosin, 7 to whom I had been 
 kind, and assisted in his exile ; but which 
 he little remembered in his greatness. 
 
 2gtk. Dr. Creighton 8 preached his ex- 
 travagant sermon at St. Margaret's, before 
 the House of Commons. 
 
 30M. This morning was passed my 
 lease of Sayes Court from the Crown, for 
 the finishing of which I had been obliged 
 to make such frequent journeys to London. 
 I returned this evening, having seen the 
 Russian Ambassador take leave of their 
 Majesties with great solemnity. 
 
 2nd July. I saw the great Masque at Court, 
 and lay that night at Arundel-house. 9 
 
 4/^. I saw his Majesty's Guards, being 
 of horse and foot 4000, led by the General, 
 the Duke of Albemarle, in extraordinary 
 equipage and gallantry, consisting of 
 gentlemen of quality and veteran soldiers, 
 excellently clad, mounted, and ordered, 
 drawn up in battalia before their Majesties 
 in Hyde Park, where the old ■ Earl of 
 Cleveland trailed a pike, 10 and led the 
 
 1 That is, against the King. 
 
 2 [Charles Stuart, third Duke of Richmond, 
 1640-72, afterwards imprisoned in the Tower.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 4 [John Maitland, first Duke of Lauderdale, 
 1616-82.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 193.] 
 
 6 [Abraham Cowley, 1618-67. He retired to 
 Barn Elms in 1663 for solitude, but left it in 1665 
 for Porch-house, Chertsey (see post, p. 229). He 
 had lived at Deptford.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 154.] 8 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 9 [See ante, p. 218.] 
 
 10 [Thomas Wentworth, first Earl of Cleveland, 
 1591-1667.] 
 
 right-hand file in a foot company, com- 
 manded by the Lord Wentworth, his son ; x 
 a worthy spectacle and example, being 
 both of them old and valiant soldiers. 
 This was to show the French Ambassador, 
 Monsieur Cominges ; 2 there being a 
 great assembly of coaches, etc., in the 
 park. 
 
 Jt/i. Dined at the Comptroller's ; 3 after 
 dinner, we met at the Commission about 
 the streets, and to regulate hackney- 
 coaches, also to make up our accounts to 
 pass the Exchequer. 
 
 16M. A most extraordinary wet and 
 cold season. 
 
 Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the 
 Navy, 4 had now married his daughter, 
 Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of Scott's 
 Hall, in Kent. 5 This gentleman was 
 thought to be the son of Prince Rupert. 
 
 2nd August. This evening, I accom- 
 panied Mr. Treasurer and Vice-Cham- 
 berlain Carteret to his lately married 
 son-in-law's, Sir Thomas Scott, to Scott's- 
 hall. 6 We took barge as far as Gravesend, 
 and thence by post to Rochester, whence 
 in coach and six horses to Scott's Hall ; a 
 right noble seat, uniformly built, with a 
 handsome gallery. It stands in a park well 
 stored, the land fat and good. We were 
 exceedingly feasted by the young knight, 
 and in his pretty chapel heard an excellent 
 sermon by his chaplain. In the afternoon, 
 preached the learned Sir Norton Knatch- 
 bull {who has a noble seat hard by, and a 
 plantation of stately fir trees). 7 In the 
 church-yard of the parish church I measured 
 an over-grown yew tree, that was eighteen 
 of my paces in compass, out of some 
 branches of which, torn off by the winds, 
 were sawed divers goodly planks. 8 
 
 1 [Thomas Wentworth, fifth Baron Wentworth, 
 1613-65.] 
 
 2 [Gaston- Jean-Baptiste de Cominges, Seigneur 
 of St. Fort, Fleac, and La Reole, 1613-70 ; Am- 
 bassador to England, 1662-65. He had come to 
 this country 23rd December, 1662 (see post, under 
 29th October, 1664, and 20th June, 1665).] 
 
 3 [Sir Hugh Pollard (see ante, p. 225).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
 5 [Whose ancestor led the Kentish forces at the 
 Armada.] 
 
 6 [Scott's Hall, near Smeeth, has now dis- 
 appeared, and the site belongs to Lord Brabourne.] 
 
 7 [Sir Norton Knatchbull 1602-85, of Mersham 
 Hatch. He wrote Animadversiones in Libros 
 NoviTestamenti, 1659.] 
 
 » [It 
 
 has long 
 
 disappeared from Brabourne 
 
228 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 L1663 
 
 lot/i August. We returned by Sir Nor- 
 ton's, whose house is likewise in a park. This 
 gentleman is a worthy person, and learned 
 critic, especially in Greek and Hebrew. 
 Passing by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's 
 Royal Navy, and dined at Commissioner 
 Pett's, 1 master-builder there, who showed 
 me his study and models, with other 
 curiosities belonging to his art. He is 
 esteemed for the most skilful ship-builder 
 in the world. He hath a pretty garden 
 and banqueting - house, pots, statues, 
 cypresses, resembling some villas about 
 Rome. After a great feast we rode post 
 to Gravesend, and, sending the coach to 
 London, came by barge home that night. 
 
 i 8tk. To London, to see my Lord 
 Chancellor, where I had discourse with 
 my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury 2 and 
 the Bishop of Winchester, 3 who enjoined 
 me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of 
 Magdalen College, Oxford, about a letter 
 sent him by Dr. Goffe, a Romish Ora- 
 torian, 4 concerning an answer to Dean 
 Cressy's late book. 5 
 
 10th. I dined at the Comptroller's 
 [of the Household] with the Earl of 
 Oxford 6 and Mr. Ashburnham ; 7 it was 
 said it should be the last of the public 
 diets, or tables, at Court, it being deter- 
 mined to put down the old hospitality, at 
 which was great murmuring, considering 
 his Majesty's vast revenue and the plenty 
 of the nation. Hence, I went to sit in a 
 Committee, to consider about the regula- 
 
 churchyard. It was fifty-nine feet in circumfer- 
 ence, and De Candolle thought it 3000 years old. 
 Evelyn mentions it in his Sylva (Hunter's ed. 
 1812, ii. 205).] 
 
 1 [Peter Pett, 1610-70, son of Phineas Pett. 
 1570 - 1647 ( see &n>te, p. 11). He was resident 
 Commissioner of the Navy at Chatham from 1648 
 to 1667, succeeding his father. See post, under 
 18th June, 1667.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 212.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 152.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 12.] 
 
 5 [Of Dr. Pierce (see ante, p. 192) Wood speaks 
 very unfavourably in his Fasti. He was engaged 
 in many disputes both in his College and at Salis- 
 bury. Dean Cressy was bred in the Church of 
 England, and appointed Canon of Windsor and 
 Dean of Leighlin in Ireland, in the time of King 
 Charles I., but the troubles of that time interposed 
 to prevent his receiving benefit from either ; he 
 afterwards became a Roman Catholic. The book 
 here referred to is Exomologetis or the motives of 
 his conversion.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 226.] 
 
 7 [See post, under 28th August, 1667.] 
 
 tion of the Mint at the Tower ; in which 
 some small progress was made. 
 
 2Jtk. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, 1 
 Secretary to my Lord Treasurer, who 
 showed me the accounts and other private 
 matters relating to the revenue. Thence, 
 to the Commissioners of the Mint, par- 
 ticularly about coinage, and bringing his 
 Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten shillings 
 for every pound weight of gold. 
 
 7,1st. I was invited to the translation of 
 Dr. Sheldon, Bishop of London, 2 from that 
 see to Canterbury, the ceremony performed 
 at Lambeth. First went his Grace's mace- 
 bearer, steward, treasurer, comptroller, all 
 in their gowns, and with white staves ; 
 next, the Bishops in their habits, eight in 
 number ; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches, 
 Dr. Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir 
 William Merick, Judge of the Prerogative 
 Court, with divers advocates in scarlet. 
 After divine service in the chapel, per- 
 formed with music extraordinary, Dr. French 
 and Dr. Stradling (his Grace's chaplains) 
 said prayers. The Archbishop in a private 
 room looking into the chapel, the Bishops 
 who were Commissioners went up to a 
 table placed before the altar, and sat 
 round it in chairs. Then, Dr. Chaworth 
 presented the commission under the 
 broad seal to the Bishop of Winchester, 
 and it was read by Dr. Sweate. After 
 which, the Vicar-General went to the 
 vestry, and brought his Grace into the 
 chapel, his other officers marching before. 
 He being presented to the Commissioners, 
 was seated in a great arm-chair at one end 
 of the table, when the definitive sentence 
 was read by the Bishop of Winchester, 
 and subscribed by all the Bishops, and 
 proclamation was three times made at 
 the chapel door, which was then set open 
 for any to enter, and give their exceptions ; 
 if any they had. This done, we all went 
 to dinner in the great hall to a mighty 
 feast. There were present all the nobility 
 in town, the Lord Mayor of London, 
 Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, etc. My 
 Lord Archbishop did in particular most 
 civilly welcome me. So going to visit my 
 Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, 3 
 I went over to London. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 2 [See ante, under 20th August. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 195.] 
 
1664] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 229 
 
 \oth September. I dined with Mr. 
 Treasurer of the Navy, 1 where, sitting by 
 Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much dis- 
 course about books and authors, he being 
 a learned man, and had a good collection. 
 
 24^/2 October. Mr. Edward Phillips 2 
 came to be my son's preceptor : this gentle- 
 man was nephew to Milton, who wrote 
 against Salmasius's Defensio ; but was not 
 at all infected with his principles, though 
 brought up by him. 3 
 
 $th November. Dr. South, 4 my Lord 
 Chancellor's chaplain, preached at West- 
 minster Abbey an excellent discourse con- 
 cerning obedience to magistrates, against 
 the pontificians and sectaries. I afterr 
 wards dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, 
 where was much company. 
 
 6th. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of 
 Godstone off from being Sheriff of Surrey. 6 
 
 30*\fc. Was the first anniversary of our 
 Society for the choice of new officers, 
 according to the tenor of our patent and 
 institution. It being St. Andrew's day, 
 who was our patron, each fellow wore a 
 St. Andrew's cross of ribbon on the crown 
 of his hat. After the election, we dined 
 together, his Majesty sending us venison. 
 
 16th December. To our Society, where 
 Mr. P. Balle, 7 our Treasurer at the late 
 election, presented the Society with an 
 iron chest, having three locks, and in it 
 j£ioo as a gift. 
 
 iSth. Dined with the gentlemen of his 
 Majesty's bedchamber at Whitehall. 
 
 1663-4 : ind January. To Barn Elms, 
 to see Abraham Cowley after his sickness ; 8 
 and returned that evening to London. 
 
 1 [Sir George Carteret.] 
 
 2 [Edward Phillips, of Magdalen Hall, Oxford, 
 1630-96, son of Milton's only sister, Ann. He was 
 afterwards tutor to Philip Herbert, later seventh 
 Earl of Pembroke. From a letter of Evelyn to 
 Wren in 1665, it appears that the salary of such a 
 preceptor was ^20 p. a. "and such other accom- 
 modations as shall be in no ways disagreeable to 
 an ingenuous spirit." For this he was to be "a 
 perfect Grecian," and have some knowledge of 
 mathematics.] 
 
 3 The lives of Edward and John Phillips, nephews 
 and pupils of the poet, were published in 1815, by 
 William Godwin. 
 
 4 [The famous Dr. Robert South, 1634-1716, also 
 at this date Public Orator at Oxford.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 6 In which he succeeded. 
 
 "' [Peter Balle, d. 1675, Doctor of Physic and 
 Philosophy, Padua, 1660.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 227. He had been "afflicted 
 with a dangerous and lingering Fever."] 
 
 qtk February. Dined at Sir Philip War- 
 wick's j 1 thence, to Court, where I had 
 discourse with the King about an in- 
 vention of glass - grenades, 2 and several 
 other subjects. 
 
 $th. I saw The Indian Queen acted, a 
 tragedy well written, 3 so beautiful with 
 rich scenes as the like had never been seen 
 here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on 
 a mercenary theatre. 
 
 16th. I presented my Sylva to the 
 Society ; 4 and next day to his Majesty, to 
 whom it was dedicated ; also to the Lord 
 Treasurer and the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 iqth. My Lord George Berkeley, of 
 Durdans, 5 and Sir Samuel Tuke, 6 came to 
 visit me. We went on board Sir William 
 Petty's double-bottomed vessel, 7 and so to 
 London. 
 
 26/^. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; 
 and thence to Court, where I had great 
 thanks for my Sylva, and long discourse 
 with the King of divers particulars. 
 
 2nd March. Went to London to distri- 
 bute some of my books amongst friends.. 
 
 4th. Came to dine with me the Earl of 
 Lauderdale, his Majesty's great favourite, 
 and Secretary of Scotland ; the Earl of 
 Teviot ; my Lord Viscount Brouncker, 
 President of the Royal Society ; Dr. 
 Wilkins, Dean of Ripon ; Sir Robert 
 Murray, 8 and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the 
 Society. 9 
 
 This spring, I planted the Home-field 
 and West-field about Sayes Court with elms, 
 being the same year that the elms were 
 planted by his Majesty in Greenwich Park. 
 
 gth. I went to the Tower, to sit in 
 commission about regulating the Mint ; 
 and now it was that the fine new-milled 
 coin, both of white money and guineas, 
 was established. 
 
 26th. It pleased God to take away my 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 2 [Grenades of iron were invented in 1594 (see 
 Post, under 1st June, 1667).] 
 
 3 By Sir Robert Howard and Dryden. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 224. It was published in this 
 year.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 199.] 6 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 217, and Pepys's Diary, 31st July, 
 1663.] 
 
 8 [See ante, pp. 209 and 213.] 
 
 9 Dr. Robert Hooke, 1635-1703, professor of 
 Geometry in Gresham College. He wrote several 
 treatises on different branches of philosophy, and 
 entered into controversies with Hevelius, and on 
 Newton's Theory of Light and Colours. 
 
230 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1664 
 
 son, Richard, now a month old, yet with- 
 out any sickness of danger perceivably, 
 being to all appearance a most likely 
 child ; we suspected much the nurse had 
 over-lain him ; to our extreme sorrow, 
 being now again reduced to one : but God's 
 will be done. 
 
 29M March. After evening prayers, 
 was my child buried near the rest of his 
 brothers — my very dear children. 
 
 2.7th April. Saw a facetious comedy, 
 called Love in a Tub ; x and supped at Mr. 
 Secretary Bennet's. 2 
 
 yd May. Came the Earl of Kent, 3 my 
 kinsman, and his lady, to visit us. 
 
 $th. Went with some company a 
 journey of pleasure on the water, in a 
 barge, with music, and at Mortlake had 
 a great banquet, returning late. The 
 occasion was, Sir Robert Carr, 4 now court- 
 ing Mrs. Bennet, sister to the Secretary of 
 State. 
 
 6th. Went to see Mr. Wright the 
 painter's collection of rare shells, etc. 5 
 
 St h June. To our Society, to which his 
 Majesty had sent that wonderful horn of 
 the fish which struck a dangerous hole in 
 the keel of a ship in the India sea, which, 
 being broken off with the violence of the 
 fish, and left in the timber, preserved it 
 from foundering. 6 
 
 gth. Sir Samuel Tuke 7 being this morn- 
 ing married to a lady, kinswoman to my 
 Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the Queen's 
 Lord Almoner, L. Aubigny, 8 in St. James's 
 chapel, solemnised his wedding-night at my 
 house with much company. 
 
 22nd. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed 
 me such a collection of rarities, sent from 
 the Jesuits of Japan and China to their 
 Order at Paris, as a present to be reserved 
 in their repository, but brought to London 
 by the East India ships for them, as in my 
 
 1 [By Sir George Etherege, 1635-91. Its first 
 title was The Comical Revenge. It was "very 
 merry, but only so by gesture, not wit at all " — 
 says Pepys, who saw it in January, 1665.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 215.] 
 
 3 [Anthony Grey, eleventh Earl of Kent, d. 
 1702.] 
 
 4 [Sir Robert Carr, of Sleaford, Lincolnshire.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 200.] 
 
 6 [Grew's Catalogue and Description of the 
 Natural and Artificial Rarities belonging to the 
 Royal Society, ana preserved at Gresham Colledge, 
 etc., 168 r, contains no reference to this.] 
 
 7 [See ante, pp. 151 and 204.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 163.] 
 
 life I had not seen. The chief things 
 were, rhinoceroses' horns ; glorious vests, 
 wrought and embroidered on cloth of gold, 
 but with such lively colours, that for splen- 
 dour and vividness we have nothingin Europe 
 that approaches it ; a girdle studded with 
 agates and rubies of great value and size ; 
 knives, of so keen an edge as one could 
 not touch them, nor was the metal of our 
 colour, but more pale and livid ; fans, like 
 those our ladies use, but much larger, and 
 with long handles curiously carved and 
 filled with Chinese characters ; a sort of 
 paper very broad, thin, and fine, like abor- 
 tive parchment, and exquisitely polished, of 
 an amber yellow, exceeding glorious and 
 Jretty to look on, and seeming to be like 
 that which my Lord Verulam describes in 
 his Nova Atlantis ; several other sorts of 
 paper, some written, others printed ; prints 
 of landscapes, their idols, saints, pagods, 
 of most ugly serpentine monstrous and 
 hideous shapes, to which they paid devo- 
 tion ; pictures of men and countries, rarely 
 painted on a sort of gummed calico, trans- 
 parent as glass ; flowers, trees, beasts, 
 birds, etc., excellently wrought in a kind 
 of sleeve silk, very natural ; divers drugs 
 that our druggists and physicians could 
 make nothing of, especially one which the 
 Jesuit called Lac Tigridis : it looked like 
 a fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet 
 was a concretion, or coagulation, of some 
 other matter ; several book MSS. ; a gram- 
 mar of the language written in Spanish ; 
 with innumerable other rarities. 
 
 \st July. Went to see Mr. Povey's 1 
 elegant house in Lincoln's - Inn - Fields, 
 where the perspective in his court, painted 
 by Streater, 2 is indeed excellent, with the 
 vases in imitation of porphyry, and foun- 
 tains ; the inlaying of his closet ; above all, 
 his pretty cellar and ranging of his wine- 
 bottles. 
 
 *]th. To Court, where I subscribed to 
 Sir Arthur Slingsby's 3 lottery, a desperate 
 debt owing me long since in Paris. 
 
 14///. I went to take leave of the two 
 Mr. Howards, 4 now going to Paris, and 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 225 ; and post, under 6th August, 
 1666.] 
 
 2 [Robert Streater, 1624-80, called by Pepys "an 
 excellent painter of perspective and landscape." 
 He was Serjeant Painter to Charles II.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 I 4 [See ante, p. 222.] 
 
i66 4 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 2\\ 
 
 brought them as far as Bromley ; thence, 
 to Eltham, to see Sir John Shaw's new 
 house, 1 now building ; the place is pleasant, 
 if not too wet, but the house not well con- 
 trived ; especially the roof and rooms too 
 low pitched, and the kitchen where the 
 cellars should be ; the orangery and aviary 
 handsome, and a very large plantation 
 about it. 
 
 \tyhjuly. To London, to see the event 
 of the lottery 2 which his Majesty had per- 
 mitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for 
 one day in the Banqueting-house, at White- 
 hall ; I gaining only a trifle, as well as did 
 the King, Queen - Consort, and Queen- 
 Mother, for near thirty lots ; which was 
 thought to be contrived very unhandsomely 
 by the master of it, who was, in truth, a 
 mere shark. 
 
 2\si. I dined with my Lord Treasurer 8 
 at Southampton House, where his Lord- 
 ship used me with singular humanity. I 
 went in the afternoon to Chelsea, to wait 
 on the Duke of Ormonde, and returned to 
 London. 
 
 2&t/i. Came to see me Monsieur Zuli- 
 chem, Secretary to the Prince of Orange, 4 
 an excellent Latin poet, a rare lutanist, 
 with Monsieur Oudart. 5 
 
 yd August. To London ; a concert of 
 excellent musicians, especially one Mr. 
 Berkenshaw, 6 that rare artist, who invented 
 a mathematical way of composure very ex- 
 traordinary, true as to the exact rules of 
 art, but without much harmony. 
 
 8t/i. Came the sad and unexpected 
 news of the death of Lady Cotton, 7 wife 
 to my brother George, a most excellent 
 lady. 
 
 9/ h. Went with my brother Richard to 
 Wotton, to visit and comfort my discon- 
 solate brother ; and on the 13th saw my 
 
 1 [Eltham Palace (see ante, p. 189) had been 
 bestowed upon Sir John Shaw by Charles II. for 
 services rendered at Brussels and Antwerp.] 
 
 2 [Cf. Pepys's Diary, 20th July, 1664, for a longer 
 account of this lottery.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 190.] 
 
 4 [Constantine Huygens, Seigneur de Zulichem, 
 1596-1687, father of Christian Huygens (see ante, 
 p. 210). He was in England in 167 1 (see post, 
 under 24th June, 1671).] 
 
 5 [Secretary to the late Princess of Orange.] 
 
 6 {Berkenshaw was music master to Pepys, who 
 informs us in February, 1662, that he gave him five 
 pounds for five weeks' lessons, "which is a great 
 deal of money, and troubled me to part with it."] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 2.] 
 
 friend, Mr. Charles Howard, at Deepdene, 
 near Dorking. 1 
 
 16th. I went to see Sir William Ducie's 
 house at Charlton, 2 which he purchased of 
 my excellent friend, Sir Henry Newton, 3 
 now nobly furnished. 
 
 22nd. I went from London to Wotton, 
 to assist at the funeral of my sister-in-law, 
 the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitory 
 there, she being put up in lead. Dr. 
 Owen made a profitable and pathetic dis- 
 course, concluding with an eulogy of that 
 virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It 
 was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty 
 mourners. I came back next day with my 
 wife to London. 
 
 2nd September. Came Constantine Huy- 
 ghens, Seigneur de Zulichem, Sir Robert 
 Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, 4 and other 
 friends, to spend the day with us. 
 
 $th October. To our Society. There 
 was brought a new-invented instrument of 
 music, being a harpsichord with gut-strings, 
 sounding like a concert of viols with an 
 organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone 
 of parchment that rubbed horizontally 
 against the strings. 
 
 6tk. I heard the anniversary oration in 
 praise of Dr. Harvey, in the Anatomy 
 Theatre in the College of Physicians ; after 
 which I was invited by Dr. Alston, the 
 President, 5 to a magnificent feast. 
 
 Jth. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, 
 one of the Masters of Chancery, in Great 
 St. Bartholomew's ; passing the evening at 
 Whitehall, with the Queen, etc. 
 
 2>th. Sir William Curtius, 6 his Majesty's 
 Resident in Germany, came to visit me ; 
 he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, 
 as he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius, 7 
 the Encyclopedist. 
 
 i$tk. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, 
 where were the Duke of Ormonde, Earl of 
 Cork, and Bishop of Winchester. After 
 dinner, my Lord Chancellor and his lady 
 carried me in their coach to see their palace 
 (for he now lived at Worcester- House in 
 the Strand), building at the upper end of 
 St. James's - street,^ and to project the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 186.] 2 [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 171.] 4 [See ante, p. 149.] 
 
 5 [Sir Edward Alston, 1595-1669 ; P.CP. 1635-66.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 8 Clarendon House, Piccadilly. It stood on the 
 N. side, between Berkeley Street and Bond Street, 
 
232 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1664 
 
 garden. In the evening, I presented him 
 with my book on Architecture, 1 as before 
 I had done to his Majesty and the Queen- 
 Mother. His lordship caused me to stay 
 with him in his bedchamber, discoursing 
 of several matters very late, even till he 
 was going into his bed. 
 
 Vjth October. I went with my Lord 
 Viscount Cornbury-, 2 to Cornbury, in Ox- 
 fordshire, to assist him in the planting of 
 the park, and bear him company, with Mr. 
 Belin and Mr. May, 3 in a coach with six 
 horses; dined at Uxbridge, lay at Wycombe. 
 
 iStk. At Oxford. Went through Wood- 
 stock, where we beheld the destruction of 
 that royal seat and park by the late rebels, 
 and arrived that evening at Cornbury, a 
 house lately built by the Earl of Denbigh, 
 in the middle of a sweet park, walled with 
 a dry wall. 4 The house is of excellent free- 
 stone, abounding in that part (a stone that 
 is fine, but never sweats, or casts any 
 damp) ; it is of ample dimensions, has 
 goodly cellars, the paving of the hall ad- 
 mirable for its close laying. We designed 
 a handsome chapel that was yet wanting : 
 as Mr. May had the stables, which indeed 
 are very fair, having set out the walks in 
 the park and gardens. The lodge is a 
 pretty solitude, and the ponds very con- 
 venient ; the park well stored. 
 
 2.0th. Hence, to see the famous wells, 
 natural and artificial grots and fountains, 
 called Bushell's Wells, at Enstone. 5 This 
 
 and exactly fronting St. James's Palace. The 
 Chancellor, in the Continuation of his Life, laments 
 his " weakness and vanity" in having built it, and 
 the " gust of envy " which its magnificence created. 
 He had little enjoyment of it, as will be seen 
 hereafter (see j>ost, under 19th June and 18th 
 September, 1683, and 12th June, 1684). 
 
 1 A Parallel of the Ancient Architecture with 
 the Modern, etc. Written in French, by Roland 
 Freart, Sieur de Chambray, and translated by 
 Evelyn. See his Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, 
 
 PP- 337-48. 
 
 2 [Henry Hyde, Lord Cornbury, 1638- 1709, after- 
 wards second Earl of Clarendon.] 
 
 3 [Probably Hugh May, the architect of Cashio- 
 bury, and surveyor of the works at Windsor Castle.] 
 
 4 Once the residence of Francis Almeric, created 
 Baron Churchill, brother of the fifth Duke of Marl- 
 borough.] 
 
 5 Thomas Bushell, 1594-1674. He had been page 
 and seal-bearer to Bacon. He printed a pamphlet 
 descriptive of his contrivances at Enstone ; and in 
 Plot s Oxfordshire is an engraving of the rock, 
 fountains, etc., belonging to it. See an account of 
 him in Manning and Bray's History of Surrey, 
 1814, vol. iii. p. 523, and Appendix cxlix. 
 
 Bushell had been Secretary to my Lord 
 Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude. 
 There he had two mummies ; a grot where 
 he lay in a hammock, like an Indian. 
 Hence, we went to Ditchley, an ancient 
 seat of the Lees, now Sir Henry Lee's ; it 
 is a low ancient timber house, with a pretty 
 bowling - green. My Lady gave us an 
 extraordinary dinner. This gentleman's 
 mother was Countess of Rochester, who 
 was also there, and Sir Walter St. John. 
 There were some pictures of their ancestors, 
 not ill painted ; the great-grandfather had 
 been Knight of the Garter : there was a 
 picture of a Pope, and our Saviour's head. 
 So we returned to Cornbury. 
 
 24th. We dined at Sir Timothy Tyrell's 
 at Shotover. This gentleman married the 
 daughter and heir of Dr. James Ussher, 
 Archbishop of Armagh, that learned pre- 
 late. 1 There is here in the grove a fountain 
 of the coldest water I ever felt, and very 
 clear. His plantation of oaks and other 
 timber is very commendable. We went in 
 the evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. Hyde's, 
 principal of Magdalen- Hall (related to the 
 Lord Chancellor), brother to the Lord 
 Chief- Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, 
 who lost his head for his loyalty. We were 
 handsomely entertained two days. The 
 Vice- Chancellor, with Dr. Fell, 2 Dean of 
 Christ Church, the learned Dr. Barlow, 3 
 Warden of Queen's, and several Heads of 
 houses, came to visit Lord Cornbury (his 
 father being now Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity), and next day invited us all to 
 dinner. I went to visit Mr. Boyle (now 
 here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis, 4 
 and Dr. Christopher Wren, 5 in the tower of 
 the schools, with an inverted tube, or tele- 
 scope, observing the discus of the sun for 
 the passing of Mercury that day before it ; 
 but the latitude was so great that nothing 
 appeared ; so we went to see the rarities 
 in the Library, where the keepers showed 
 me my name among the benefactors. They 
 have a cabinet of some medals, and pictures 
 of the muscular parts of man's body. 
 Thence, to the new Theatre, now building 
 at an exceeding and royal expense by the 
 Lord Archbishop of Canterbury [Sheldon], 
 to keep the Acts in for the future, till now 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 166.] 3 [See ante, p. 175.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 213.] 4 [See ante, p. 213.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 175.] 
 
i66 4 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 233 
 
 being in St. Mary's Church. -The founda- 
 tion had been newly laid, and the whole 
 designed by that incomparable genius, my 
 worthy friend Dr. Christopher Wren, who 
 showed me the model, not disdaining my 
 advice in some particulars. Thence, to 
 see the picture on the wall over the altar 
 of All Souls, being the largest piece of 
 fresco-painting (or rather in imitation of it, 
 for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, 
 not ill designed by the hand of one Fuller ; 1 
 yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems 
 too full of nakeds for a chapel. 
 
 Thence, to New College, and the paint- 
 ing of Magdalen chapel, which is on blue 
 cloth in chiaroscuro, by one Greenborow, 2 
 being a Cosna Domini, and a Last Judg- 
 ment on the wall by Fuller, as is the other, 
 but somewhat varied. 
 
 Next to Wadham, and the Physic 
 Garden, where were two large locust trees, 
 and as many platana, and some rare plants 
 under the culture of old Bobart. 8 
 
 26th October. We came back to Beacons- 
 field ; next day to London, where we dined 
 at the Lord Chancellor's, with my Lord 
 Belasyse. 4 
 
 27M. Being casually in the privy gallery 
 at Whitehall, his Majesty gave me thanks 
 before divers lords and noblemen for my 
 book of Architecture, and again for my 
 Sylva, saying they were the best designed 
 and useful for the matter and subject, the 
 best printed and designed (meaning the 
 taille-douces of the Parallel of Architecture) 
 that he had seen. He then caused me to 
 follow him alone to one of the windows, 
 and asked me if I had any paper about me 
 "unwritten, and a crayon ; I presented him 
 with both, and then laying it on the window- 
 stool, he with his own hands designed to 
 me the plot for the future building of 
 Whitehall, together with the rooms of 
 state, and other particulars. After this, he 
 
 1 [Isaac Fuller, 1606-72. But the altar-piece at 
 All Souls is said to be by Thornhill. Fuller painted 
 one at Magdalen.] 
 
 2 [Query, — Robert Greenbury (j?. 1616-50).] 
 
 3 Jacob Bobart, 1599 - 1680, was appointed tbe 
 first keeper of the Physic Garden at Oxford. There 
 is a fine print of him, after Loggan, by Burghers, 
 dated 1675. There exists also a small whole-length 
 of him in the frontispiece to Vertumnus, a poem on 
 that Oxford garden. In this he is dressed in a long 
 vest, with a beard. He was succeeded by his son, 
 also Jacob, 1641-1719. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 226.] 
 
 talked with me of several matters, asking 
 my advice, in which I find his Majesty had 
 an extraordinary talent becoming a magni- 
 ficent prince. 
 
 The same day at Council, there being 
 Commissioners to be made to take care of 
 such sick and wounded and prisoners of 
 war, as might be expected upon occasion 
 of a succeeding war and' action at sea, war 
 being already declared against the Hol- 
 landers, his Majesty was pleased to nomi 
 nate me to be one, with three oth 
 gentlemen, parliament-men, viz. Sir Wl 
 liam D'Oyly, 1 Knt. and Bart. , Sir Thomas 
 Clifford, 2 and Bullein Rheymes, Esq. ; wi 
 a salary of £1200 a year amongst us-, 
 besides extraordinaries for our care ani 
 attention in time of station, each of us 
 being appointed to a particular distric , 
 mine falling out to be Kent and Susse) , 
 with power to constitute officers, physicians , 
 chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to disL 
 pose of half of the hospitals through Eng* 
 land. After the council, we kissed his 
 Majesty's hand. At this council, I heard 
 Mr. Solicitor Finch 3 plead most elegantly 
 for the merchants trading to the Canaries, 
 praying for a new Charter. 
 
 29M. Was the most magnificent triumph 
 by water and land of the Lord Mayor. 4 I 
 dined at Guildhall, at the upper table, 
 placed next to Sir H. Bennet, Secretary 
 of State, 5 opposite to my Lord Chancellor 
 and the Duke of Buckingham, who sate 
 between Monsieur Cominges, the French 
 Ambassador, 6 Lord Treasurer, the Dukes 
 of Ormonde and Albemarle, Earl of Man- 
 chester, Lord Chamberlain, and the rest of 
 the great officers of state. My Lord 
 Mayor came twice up to us, first drinking 
 in the golden goblet his Majesty's health, 
 then the French King's as a compliment 
 to the Ambassador ; we returned my Lord 
 Mayor's health, the trumpets and drums 
 sounding. The cheer was not to be 
 imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an 
 
 1 [Sir William D'Oyly of Shottisham, Norfolk, d. 
 1677. He was M.P. for Yarmouth, and had been 
 created a Baronet in 1663.] 
 
 2 [Sir Thomas Clifford of Ugbrooke, first Baron 
 Clifford of Chudleigh, 1630-73.] 
 
 3 Heneage Finch, 1621-82, afterwards first Earl 
 of Nottingham and Lord Chancellor. 
 
 4 Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day 
 was at the cost of the Haberdashers' Company. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 216.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 227.] 
 
234 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1665 
 
 infinite number of persons at the tables in 
 that ample hall. The feast was said to 
 cost ;£iooo. I slipped away in the crowd, 
 and came home late. 
 
 31J/ October. I was this day 44 years 
 of age ; for which I returned thanks to 
 Almighty God, begging His merciful pro- 
 tection for the year to come. 
 
 2nd November. Her Majesty, the Queen- 
 Mother, came across the gallery in White- 
 hall to give me thanks for my book of 
 Architecture, which I had presented to her, 
 with a compliment that I did by no means 
 deserve. 
 
 i6//z. We chose our treasurer, 1 clerks, 
 and messengers, and appointed our seal, 
 which I ordered should be the good 
 Samaritan, with this motto, Fac similiter. 
 Painters' Hall was lent us to meet in. In 
 the great room were divers pictures, some 
 reasonably good, that had been given to 
 the Company by several of the wardens 
 and masters of the Company. 
 
 2-^rd. Our statutes now finished, were 
 read before a full assembly of the Royal 
 Society. 2 
 
 24/^. His Majesty was pleased to tell 
 me what the conference was with the Hol- 
 land Ambassador, which, as after I found, 
 was the heads of the speech he made at the 
 re-convention of the Parliament, which now 
 began. 
 
 2nd December. We delivered the Privy 
 Council's letters to the Governors of St. 
 Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, that a 
 moiety of the house should be reserved for 
 such sick and wounded as should from 
 time to time be sent from the fleet during 
 the war. This being delivered at their 
 Court, the President and several Alder- 
 men, Governors of that Hospital, invited 
 us to a great feast in Fishmongers' Hall. 3 
 
 10th. To London, our last sitting, 
 taking order for our personal visiting our 
 several districts. 4 I dined at Captain 
 Cocke's (our treasurer), with that most 
 ingenious gentleman, Matthew Wren, son 
 'to the Bishop of Ely, 5 and Mr. Joseph 
 Williamson, since Secretary of State. 6 
 
 1 [See infra, 20th December.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 224.] 
 
 3 [Aftertvards destroyed in the Great Fire. It 
 had previously been Lord Fanhope's.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 233.] 5 [See ante, p. 192.] 
 
 6 Afterwards Sir Joseph, 1633-1701. He was 
 Secretary of State, 1660-61, and P.R.S., 1677-80. 
 
 22nd. I went to the launching of a new 
 ship of two bottoms, invented by Sir Wil- 
 liam Petty, on which were various opinions ;* 
 his Majesty being present, gave her the 
 name of the Experiment : so I returned 
 home, where I found Sir Humphry Winch, 2 
 who spent the day with me. 
 
 This year I planted the lower grove next 
 the pond at Sayes Court. It was now ex- 
 ceeding cold, and a hard long frosty season, 
 and the comet was very visible. 
 
 2%th. Some of my poor neighbours dined 
 with me, and others of my tenants, accord- 
 ing to my annual custom. 
 
 3 1 st. Set my affairs in order, gave God 
 praise for His mercies the past year, and 
 prepared for the reception of the Holy 
 Sacrament, which I partook of the next 
 day, after hearing our minister on the 4th of 
 Galatians, verses 4, 5, of the mystery of our 
 "llessed Saviour's Incarnation. 
 
 1664-5 : 2nd January. This day was 
 mblished by me that part of The Mystery 
 
 Jesuitism 3 translated and collected by 
 
 He represented Thetford and Rochester in several 
 parliaments. At his death he left ,£6000 to Queen's 
 College, Oxford, where he was educated, and at 
 Rochester he founded a mathematical school. There 
 is a whole-length portrait of him in the Town-hall 
 at Rochester. 
 
 1 [See ante, pp. 217, 229.] 
 
 2 [A Commissioner of Trade, and later Commis- 
 sioner of the Admiralty.] 
 
 3 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, 2nd Jan. 1664, 
 Evelyn says, " I came to present y r Lordship with 
 y r owne booke [in the margin is written, ' The 
 other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism translated 
 and published by me '] : I left it with my Lord y r 
 father, because I would not suffer it to be pubhq 
 till he had first seene it, who, on yr L" score, has 
 so just a title to it. The particulars, w ch you will 
 find added after the 4th letter, are extracted out 
 of severall curious papers and passages lying by 
 me, which for being very apposite to y 6 controversy, 
 I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to have 
 never ben produced." — In another letter to Lord 
 Cornbury, gth Feb. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says he 
 undertook the translation by command of his 
 Lordship, and of his father the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 The authors of the Biographia Britannica speak 
 of The Mystery of J esuitisme as one volume ; but 
 in the library at Wotton there are three, in duo- 
 decimo, with the subjoined titles and contents. 
 The second in order is that translated by Mr. 
 Evelyn. 
 
 1. Les Provinciales, or, the Mystery of J esuit- 
 isme, discovered in certain letters written upon 
 occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne 
 between the Jansenists and the Molinists, display- 
 ing the pernicious Maxims of the late Casuists. 
 The second edition corrected, with large addi- 
 tional. Sicut Scrpentes. London : Printed for 
 Richard Royston, and are to be sold by Robert 
 
i66 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 235 
 
 me though without my name, containing 
 the Imaginary Heresy, with four letters 
 and other pieces. 
 
 4/ A January. I went in a coach, it being ex- 
 cessive sharp frost and snow, towards Dover 
 and other parts of Kent, to settle physicians, 
 chirurgeons, agents, marshals, and other 
 officers in all the seaports, to take care of 
 such as should be set on shore, wounded, 
 sick, or prisoners, in pursuance of our 
 commission reaching from the North Fore- 
 land, in Kent, to Portsmouth, in Hamp- 
 shire. • The rest of the ports in England 
 were allotted to the other Commissioners. 
 That evening, I came to Rochester, where 
 I delivered the Privy Council's letter to 
 the Mayor to receive orders from me. 
 
 5M. I arrived at Canterbury, and went 
 to the cathedral, exceedingly well repaired 
 since his Majesty's return. 
 
 6th. To Dover, where Colonel Stroode, 
 Lieutenant of the Castle, having received 
 the letter I brought him from the Duke of 
 Albemarle, made me lodge in it, and I 
 was splendidly treated, assisting me from 
 place to place. Here I settled my first 
 Deputy. The Mayor and officers of the 
 Customs were very civil to me. 
 
 gth. To Deal. — loth. To Sandwich, a 
 pretty town, about two miles from the sea. 
 The Mayor and officers of the Customs 
 
 Clavell at the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's 
 church in St. Paul's Church-yard, 1658.— pp. 360. 
 Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the names 
 of some of the most eminent Casuists. 
 
 2. Mvo-Trjptov ttjs 'Avojutias. That is, Another 
 Part of the Mystery of Jesuitism ; or the new 
 Heresie of the Jesuits, publicly maintained at 
 Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of 
 December MDCLXI. declared to all the Bishops 
 of France. According to the copy printed at 
 Paris. Together with the Imaginary Heresy, in 
 three Letters, with divers other particulars relating 
 to the abominable Mysterie. Never before pub- 
 lished in English. London : Printed by James 
 Flesher for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most 
 sacred Majesty, 1664—3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of 
 a Letter from the Reverend Father Valerian, a 
 Capuchin, to Pope Alexander 7th, pp. 207-239. 
 The sense of the French Church, pp. 240-254. 
 
 3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demon- 
 strated by many remarkable histories of their 
 actions in all parts of the world. Collected either 
 from books of the greatest authority, or most 
 certain and unquestionable records and memorials. 
 By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully 
 translated into English (by Dr. Tongue; see 
 hereafter, under 1678, Oct. 1). London : Printed 
 for Simon Miller, at the Star at the west end of 
 St. Paul's, 1670. See Evelyn's Miscellaneotts 
 Writings, p. 499. [Brays Note.] 
 
 were very diligent to serve me. I visited 
 the forts in the way, and returned that 
 night to Canterbury. 
 
 1 ith. To Rochester, where I took order 
 to settle officers at Chatham. 
 
 12th. To Gravesend, and returned 
 home. A cold, busy, but not unpleasant 
 journey. 
 
 2$ih. This night being at Whitehall, 
 his Majesty came to me standing in the 
 withdra wing-room, and gave me thanks for 
 publishing The Mysteries of Jesuitism^ 
 which he said he had carried two days 
 in his pocket, read it, and encouraged me ; 
 at which I did not a little wonder : I 
 suppose Sir Robert Murray had given it to 
 him. 
 
 27th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, 
 who caused me after dinner to sit two 
 or three hours alone with him in his bed- 
 chamber. 
 
 2nd February. I saw a Masque per- 
 formed at Court, by six gentlemen and six 
 ladies, surprising his Majesty, it being 
 Candlemas-day. * 
 
 8th. Ash Wednesday. I visited our 
 prisoners at Chelsea College, and to ex- 
 amine how the marshal and sutlers behaved. 
 These were prisoners taken in the war ; 
 they only complained that their bread was 
 too fine. I dined at Sir Henry Herbert's, 2 
 Master of the Revels. 
 
 gth. Dined at my Lord Treasurer's, 
 the Earl of Southampton, 3 in Bloomsbury, 
 where he was building a noble square, or 
 piazza, 4 a little town ; his own house 
 stands too low, some noble rooms, a pretty 
 cedar chapel, a naked garden to the north, 
 but good air. 5 I had much discourse with 
 his Lordship, whom I found to be a person 
 
 1 Pepys speaks of this more in detail, as a 
 masquerade, "where six women (my Lady Castle- 
 maine and Duchess of Monmouth being two of 
 them) and six men (the Duke of Monmouth and 
 Lord Arran [Ormonde's second son], and Monsieur 
 Blanfort [Lewis Duras, p. 302], being three of them) 
 in vizards, but most rich and antique dresses, did 
 dance admirably and most gloriously" (Diary, 
 February 3, 1665).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 165. He was the brother of 
 George Herbert.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 190.] 
 
 4 The Italians mean simply a square by their 
 fiazzas. [Cf. Pepys's Diary, October 2, 1664.] 
 
 5 Afterwards called Bedford House, the town 
 residence for many years of the Russell family. It 
 was pulled down in 1880 ; and on the site and the 
 adjoining fields were erected Russell Square, 
 Bedford Place, Russell Place, etc. 
 
236 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1665 
 
 of extraordinary parts, but a valetudinarian. 
 — I went to St. James's Park, where I saw 
 various animals, and examined the throat 
 of the onocrotalus, or pelican, a fowl 
 between a stork and a swan ; a melan- 
 choly water-fowl, brought from Astracan 
 by the Russian Ambassador ; it was divert- 
 ing to see how he would toss up and turn 
 a flat fish, plaice, or flounder, to get it 
 right into his gullet at its lower beak, 
 which, being filmy, stretches to a prodigious 
 wideness when it devours a great fish. 
 Here was also a small water -fowl, not 
 bigger than a moorhen, that went almost 
 quite erect, like the penguin of America ; 
 it would eat as much fish as its whole body 
 weighed ; I never saw so unsatiable a 
 devourer, yet the body did not appear to 
 swell the bigger. The Solan geese here 
 are also great devourers, and are said soon 
 to exhaust all the fish in a pond. Here 
 was a curious sort of poultry not much 
 exceeding the size of a tame pigeon, with 
 legs so short as their crops seemed to touch 
 the earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork, 
 which was a rarity at this season, seeing 
 he was loose, and could fly loftily ; two 
 Balearian cranes, 1 one of which having 
 had one of his legs broken and cut off 
 above the knee, had a wooden or boxen 
 leg and thigh, with a joint so accurately 
 made that the creature could walk and use 
 it as well as if it had been natural ; it was 
 made by a soldier. The park was at this 
 time stored with numerous flocks of several 
 sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild 
 fowl, breeding about the Decoy, 2 which 
 for being near so great a city, and among 
 such a concourse of soldiers and people, is 
 a singular and diverting thing. There 
 were also deer of several countries, white ; 
 spotted like leopards ; antelopes, an elk, 
 red deer, roebucks, stags, Guinea goats, 
 Arabian sheep, etc. There were withy- 
 pots, or nests, for the wild fowl to lay their 
 eggs in, a little above the surface of the 
 water. 
 
 23rd February. I was invited to a great 
 feast at Mr. Rich's (a relation of my wife's, 
 now Reader at Lincoln's Inn) ; where was 
 the Duke of Monmouth, the Archbishop of 
 
 1 [Balearic cranes.] 
 
 2 [The Decoy, at this date in course of construc- 
 tion, was at the south-eastern end of St. James's 
 Park It disappeared (with Duck Island) in 
 1771.] 
 
 Canterbury, Bishops of London and Win- 
 chester, the Speaker of the House of 
 Commons, divers of the Judges, and several 
 other great men. 
 
 24M. Dr. Fell, 1 Canon of Christ Church, 
 preached before the King, on 15 ch. 
 Romans, v. 2, a very formal discourse, 
 and in blank verse, according to his 
 manner ; however, he is a good man. — 
 Mr. Phillips, preceptor to my son, 2 went 
 to be with the Earl of Pembroke's son, my 
 Lord Herbert. 
 
 ind March. I went with his Majesty, 
 into the lobby behind the House of Lords, 
 where I saw the King and the rest of the 
 Lords robe themselves, and got into the 
 House of Lords in a corner near the Wool- 
 sack, on which the Lord Chancellor sits 
 next below the throne : the King sate in 
 all the regalia, the crown-imperial on his 
 head, the sceptre and globe, etc. The 
 Duke of Albemarle bare the sword, the 
 Duke of Ormonde, the cap of dignity. 
 The rest of the Lords robed in their 
 places : — a most splendid and august con- 
 vention. Then came the Speaker and the 
 House of Commons, and at the bar made 
 a speech, and afterwards presented several 
 bills, a nod only passing them, the clerk 
 saying, Le Roy le veult, as to public bills ; 
 as to private, Soit fait comme il est disiri. 
 Then, his Majesty made a handsome but 
 short speech, commanding my Lord Privy 
 Seal to prorogue the Parliament, which he 
 did, the Chancellor being ill and absent. 
 I had not before seen this ceremony. 
 
 gtk. I went to receive the poor creatures 
 that were saved out of the London frigate, 3 
 blown up by accident, with above 200 
 men. 
 
 29^/z. Went to Goring House, 4 now Mr. 
 Secretary Bennet's, ill built, but the place 
 capable of being made a pretty villa. His 
 Majesty was now finishing the Decoy in 
 the Park. 5 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 232.] 2 [See ante, p. 229.] 
 
 3 [" A little on this side of the buoy of the Nore " 
 — says Pepys, 8th March, 1665 — "she suddenly 
 blew up " — as they were bringing her from Chatham 
 to the Hope. Three hundred men were drowned.] 
 
 4 Buckingham Palace is now built on the site. 
 There is a small print of Goring House, as it then 
 stood. 
 
 8 [In an account for " Workes and Services," 
 drawn up in May, 1671, and printed in Cunning- 
 ham's London, 1850, p. 259, are several items con- 
 nected with the Decoy, which is said to have been 
 
i66 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 237 
 
 2nd April, Took order about some 
 prisoners sent from Captain Allen's ship, 
 taken in the Solomon, 1 viz. the brave men 
 who defended her so gallantly. 
 
 $th. Was a day of public humiliation 
 and for success of this terrible war, 2 begun 
 doubtless at secret instigation of the French 
 to weaken the States and Protestant in- 
 terest. Prodigious preparations on both 
 sides. 
 
 6th. In the afternoon, I saw acted Mus- 
 tapha, a tragedy written by the Earl of 
 Orrery. 3 
 
 \ nth. To London, being now left the 
 only Commissioner to take all necessary 
 orders how to exchange, remove, and keep 
 prisoners, dispose of hospitals, etc. ; the 
 rest of the Commissioners being gone to 
 their several districts, in expectation of a 
 sudden engagement. 
 
 19M. Invited to a great dinner at the 
 Trinity House, where I had business with 
 the Commissioners of the Navy, and to 
 receive the second ^"5000 impressed for the 
 service of the sick and wounded prisoners. 
 
 20th. To Whitehall, to the King, who 
 called me into his bedchamber as he was 
 dressing, to whom I showed the letter 
 written to me from the Duke of York from 
 the fleet, giving me notice of young Evert- 
 zen, and some considerable commanders 
 newly taken in fight with the Dartmouth 
 [? Yarmouth] and Diamond frigates, 4 whom 
 he had sent me as prisoners at war ; I 
 went to know of his Majesty how he would 
 have me treat them, when he commanded 
 
 "contrived" by one Sydrach H ileus. Another 
 person engaged upon it was the Edward Storey 
 who eave his name to Storey's Gate.] 
 
 1 [Pepys calls this Dutch ship the King Salomon 
 (seejost, under 24th April, 1665).] 
 
 2 [It had been declared, 22nd February.] 
 
 3 [Mnstapha, the Son o/Solyman the Magnifi- 
 cent, printed 1668. Pepys saw this on the 3rd at 
 the Duke's Theatre ; but does not praise it.] 
 
 4 [Cf. Pepys, 17th April, 1665. "To the Duke 
 of Albemarle's, where he showed me Mr. Coventry's 
 letters, how three Dutch privateers are taken, in 
 one whereof Everson's son is captain. But they 
 have killed poor Captain Golding in the Diatnond 
 [see ante, p. 166]. Two of them, one of 32 and the 
 other of 20 odd guns, did stand stoutly up against 
 her, which hath 46, and the Yarmouth, that hath 
 52 guns, and as many more men as they. So that 
 they did more than we could expect ; not yield- 
 ing till many of their men were killed. And Ever- 
 son, when he was brought before the Duke of 
 York, and was observed to be shot through the 
 hat, answered, that he wished it had gone through 
 his head, rather than been taken."] 
 
 me to bring the young captain to him, and 
 to take the word of the Dutch Ambassador 
 (who yet remained here) for the other, that 
 he should render himself to me whenever I 
 called on him, and not stir without leave. 
 Upon which I desired more guards, the 
 prison being Chelsea House. 1 I went also 
 to Lord Arlington (the Secretary Bennet 
 lately made a Lord) 2 about other business. 
 Dined at my Lord Chancellor's ; none 
 with him but Sir Sackville Crowe, formerly 
 Ambassador at Constantinople ; we were 
 very cheerful and merry. 
 
 24th. I presented young Captain Evertzen 
 (eldest son of Cornelius, Vice- Admiral of 
 Zealand, and nephew of John, now Admiral, 
 a most valiant person) to his Majesty in 
 his bedchamber. The King gave him his 
 hand to kiss, and restored him his liberty ; 
 asked many questions concerning the fight 
 (it being the first blood drawn), his Majesty 
 remembering the many civilities he had 
 formerly received from his relations abroad, 
 who had now so much interest in that con- 
 siderable Province. Then, I was com- 
 manded to go with him to the Holland 
 Ambassador, where he was to stay for his 
 passport, and I was to give him fifty pieces 
 in broad gold. Next day I had the Am- 
 bassador's parole for the other Captain, 
 taken in Captain Allen's fight before Cales 
 [Cadiz]. 3 I gave the King an account of 
 what I had done, and afterwards asked 
 the same favour for another Captain, 
 which his Majesty gave me. 
 
 28M. I went to Tunbridge, to see a 
 solemn exercise at the free-school there. 4 
 
 Having taken orders with my marshal 
 about my prisoners, and with the doctor 
 and chirurgeon to attend the wounded 
 enemies, and of our own men, I went to 
 London again, and visited my charge, 
 several with legs and arms off; miserable 
 objects, God knows. 
 
 16th May. To London, to consider of 
 the poor orphans and widows made by this 
 
 1 [Chelsea College. See ante, p. 235 ; and post, 
 under 24th September, 1667.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 230.] 
 
 3 [Pepys refers to this action, which was fought 
 in Cadiz Bay between eight ships under Allen, and 
 thirty-four of the Dutch Smyrna Fleet {Diary, 23rd 
 January, 1665).] 
 
 4 At the annual visitation of the Skinners' Com- 
 pany of London, who are the patrons, at which 
 verses, themes, etc., are spoken before them by the 
 senior scholars. 
 
238 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1665 
 
 bloody beginning, and whose husbands 
 and relations perished in the London 
 frigate, of which there were fifty widows, 
 and forty- five of them with child. 
 
 26th May. To treat with the Holland Am- 
 bassador at Chelsea, 1 for release of divers 
 prisoners of war in Holland on exchange 
 here. After dinner, being called into the 
 Council- Chamber at Whitehall, I gave his 
 Majesty an account of what I had done, 
 informing him of the vast charge upon 
 us, now amounting to no less than ^1000 
 weekly. 
 
 29th. I went with my little boy to my 
 district in Kent, to make up accounts with 
 my officers. Visited the Governor at Dover 
 Castle, 2 where were some of my prisoners. 
 
 yd June. In my return went to Graves- 
 end ; the fleets being just now engaged, 
 gave special orders for my officers to be 
 ready to receive the wounded and prisoners. 
 
 $th. To London, to speak with his 
 Majesty and the Duke of Albemarle for 
 horse and foot guards for the prisoners at 
 war, committed more particularly to my 
 charge by a commission apart. 
 
 Sth. I went again to his Grace, thence 
 to the Council, and moved for another 
 privy seal for ^20,000, and that I might 
 have the disposal of the Savoy Hospital 
 for the sick and wounded ; all which was 
 granted. Hence to the Royal Society, to 
 refresh among the philosophers. 
 
 Came news of his Highness's victory, 3 
 which indeed might have been a complete 
 one, and at once ended the war, had it 
 been pursued, but the cowardice of some, 
 or treachery, or both, frustrated that. We 
 had, however, bonfires, bells, and rejoic- 
 ing in the city. Next day, the 9th, I had 
 instant orders to repair to the Downs, so 
 as I got to Rochester this evening. Next 
 day, I lay at Deal, where I found all in 
 readiness : but, the fleet being hindered by 
 contrary winds, I came away on the 12th, 
 and went to Dover, and returned to Deal ; 
 and on the 13th, hearing the fleet was at 
 Sole Bay, I went homeward, and lay at 
 
 1 [See above, p. 237.] 
 
 2 [Colonel Stroode (see ante, p. 235; and post, 
 under 6th January, 1665). "Captain John Stroade 
 is M r of the Castle " — says Edward Browne in 
 April, 1664 (Sir T. Browne's Works, 1836, i. 57). 
 Pepys also mentions Stroud under 4th June, 1666.] 
 
 S [Over the Dutch in Sole Bay (off Lowestoft), 
 June 3.] 
 
 Chatham, and on the 14th, I got home. 
 On the 15th, came the eldest son of the 
 present Secretary of State to the French 
 King, 1 with much other company, to dine 
 with me. After dinner, I went with him 
 to London, to speak to my Lord General, 2 
 for more guards, and gave his Majesty an 
 account of my journey to the coasts under 
 my inspection. I also waited on his Royal 
 Highness, 3 now come triumphant from the 
 fleet, gotten into repair. See the whole 
 history of this conflict in my History of the 
 Dutch War* 
 
 20th. To London, and represented the 
 state of the sick and wounded to his 
 Majesty in Council, for want of money ; 
 he ordered I should apply to my Lord 
 Treasurer and Chancellor of the Ex- 
 chequer, upon what funds to raise the 
 money promised. We also presented to 
 his Majesty divers expedients for retrench- 
 ment of the charge. 
 
 This evening making my court to the 
 Duke, I spake to Monsieur Cominges, the 
 French Ambassador, 5 and his Highness 
 granted me six prisoners, Embdeners, who 
 were desirous to go to the Barbadoes with 
 a merchant. 
 
 22nd. We waited on the Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, and got an Order of 
 Council for the money to be paid to the 
 Treasurer of the Navy for our Receivers. 
 
 23^. I dined with Sir Robert Paston, 
 since Earl of Yarmouth, 6 and saw the 
 Duke of Verneuil, base brother to the 
 Queen-Mother, a handsome old man, a 
 great hunter. 7 
 
 The Duke of York told us that, when 
 we were in fight, his dog sought out 
 absolutely the very securest place in all 
 
 1 [The Marquis de Berni, eldest son of Hugues 
 de Lionne, Foreign Secretary to Louis XIV. He 
 had accompanied the Embassy, and was supposed 
 to be in love with the famous Miss Jennings of 
 Grammont's Memoirs.] 
 
 2 [The Duke of Albemarle.] 
 
 a The Duke of York, who (assisted by Prince 
 Rupert and the Earl of Sandwich) had been in 
 command.] 
 
 4 Never completed. See post, under 19th 
 August, 1674. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 227.] 6 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 7 [Henri de Bourbon, Due de Verneuil, 1601-82. 
 He was the son of Henri IV. and Henrietta de 
 Balzac, Marquise de Verneuil. He had been 
 legitimised in 1603. This " great hunter " brought 
 with him twenty-four horses, and some dogs, which 
 latter he lost in returning to France.] 
 
i66 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 239 
 
 the vessel. — In the afternoon, I saw the 
 pompous reception and audience of El 
 Conde de Molina, the Spanish Ambas- 
 sador, in the Banqueting - house, both 
 their Majesties sitting together under the 
 canopy of state. 
 
 30M June. To Chatham ; and, 1st 
 July, to the fleet with Lord Sandwich, 1 
 now Admiral, with whom I went in a 
 pinnace to the Buoy of the Nore, where 
 the whole fleet rode at anchor ; went on 
 board the Prince, of ninety brass ordnance, 
 haply the best ship in the world, both for 
 building and sailing ; she had 700 men. 
 They made a great huzza, or shout, at our 
 approach, three times. Here we dined 
 with many noblemen, gentlemen, and 
 volunteers, served in plate and excellent 
 meat of all sorts. After dinner, came his 
 Majesty, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. 
 Here I saw the King knight Captain Cut- 
 tance 2 for behaving so bravely in the 
 late fight. It was surprising to behold the 
 good order, decency, and plenty of all 
 things in a vessel so full of men. The 
 ship received a hundred cannon shot in her 
 body. Then I went on board the Charles, 
 to which after a gun was shot off, came all 
 the flag-officers to his Majesty, who there 
 held a General Council, which determined 
 that his Royal Highness should adventure 
 himself no more this summer. I came 
 away late, having seen the most glorious 
 fleet that ever spread sails. We returned 
 in his Majesty's yacht with my Lord Sand- 
 wich and Mr. Vice-Chamberlain, landing 
 at Chatham on Sunday morning. 
 
 tyh July. I took order for 150 men, 
 who had been recovered of their wounds, 
 to be carried on board the Clove Tree, 
 Carolus Quintus, and Zealand, ships that 
 had been taken by us in the fight ; and so 
 returned home. 
 
 *]th. To London, to Sir William 
 Coventry ; 3 and so to Syon, where his 
 Majesty sat at Council during the con- 
 tagion : 4 when business was over, I viewed 
 
 1 [Edward Montagu (or Mountagu), first Earl of 
 Sandwich, 1625-72, Lieut. -Admiral to the Duke of 
 York. He had distinguished himself at Sole Bay 
 (see ante, p. 238 n. 3).] 
 
 2 Sir Roger Cuttance, flag-captain of the Naseby, 
 and captain of the Fleet, 1665.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 151. ] 
 
 4 [The Great Plague, which ravaged London in 
 this year, carrying off 100,000 persons. It first 
 made its appearance in December, 1664 ; but 
 
 that seat belonging to the Earl of North- 
 umberland, 1 built out of an old nunnery, of 
 stone, and fair enough, but more celebrated 
 for the garden than it deserves ; yet there 
 is excellent wall-fruit, and a pretty foun- 
 tain ; nothing else extraordinary. 
 
 9M. I went to Hampton-Court, 2 where 
 now the whole Court was, to solicit for 
 money ; to carry intercepted letters ; confer 
 again with Sir William Coventry, the 
 Duke's Secretary ; and so home, having 
 dined with Mr. Secretary Morice. 
 
 16th. There died of the plague in 
 London this week 1 100 ; and in the week 
 following, above 2000. 3 Two houses were 
 shut up in our parish. 
 
 2nd August. A solemn fast through 
 England to deprecate God's displeasure 
 against the land by pestilence and war ; 
 our Doctor preaching on 26 Levit. v. 41, 
 42, that the means to obtain remission of 
 punishment was not to repine at it ; but 
 humbly to submit to it. 
 
 yd. Came his Grace the Duke of 
 Albemarle, Lord General of all his 
 Majesty's Forces, to visit me, and carried 
 me to dine with him. 
 
 4th. I went to Wotton with my son 
 and his tutor, Mr. Bohun, 4 Fellow of New 
 College (recommended to me by Dr. 
 Wilkins, and the President of New College, 
 Oxford), for fear of the pestilence, still 
 increasing in London and its environs. 
 On my return, I called at Durdans, where 
 I found Dr. Wilkins, Sir William Petty, 
 and Mr. Hooke, 5 contriving chariots, new 
 rigging for ships, a wheel for one to run 
 races in, and other mechanical inventions ; 
 perhaps three such persons together were 
 
 Pepys does not begin to speak of it till May, 1665. 
 "24th. — To the Coffee-house, where all the news is 
 of the Dutch being gone, and of the plague grow- 
 ing upon us in this town ; and of remedies against 
 it ; some saying one thing, and some another."] 
 
 1 [Syon (or Sion) House, Isleworth, Middlesex, 
 the seat of the Northumberlands since 1553. It 
 occupies the site of Syon Monastery, removed from 
 Twickenham in 1431. Some ancient mulberries 
 are still said to date from this period.] 
 
 2 [When the plague appeared at Hampton, the 
 Court moved to Salisbury.] 
 
 3 [At the beginning of August, the number had 
 risen to nearly 3000 per week ; the ordinary 
 average being 300. ] 
 
 4 Mr Ralph Bohun, probationary fellow of New 
 College, Oxford. In 1685 ne completed his 
 Doctor's degree. In 1701 Evelyn gave him the 
 living of Wotton. 
 
 5 [See ante, pp. 175, 217, and 229.] 
 
240 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 ri66 5 
 
 not to be found elsewhere in Europe, for 
 parts and ingenuity. 
 
 %th August. I waited on the Duke of 
 Albemarle, who was resolved to stay at the 
 Cock-pit, in St. James's Park. Died this 
 week in London, 4000. 
 
 15//Z. There perished this week 5000. 
 
 iZth. The contagion still increasing, 
 and growing now all about us, I sent my 
 wife and whole family (two or three neces- 
 sary servants excepted) to my brother's at 
 Wotton, being resolved to stay at my 
 house myself, and to look after my charge, 
 trusting in the providence and goodness of 
 God. 
 
 $th Septei?iber. To Chatham, to inspect 
 my charge, with ^900 in my coach. 
 
 Jth. Came home, there perishing near 
 10,000 poor creatures weekly ; however, I 
 went all along the city and suburbs from 
 Kent Street to St. James's, a dismal 
 passage, and dangerous to see so many 
 coffins exposed in the streets, now thin of 
 people ; the shops shut up, and all in 
 mournful silence, not knowing whose turn 
 might be next. I went to the Duke of 
 Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on our 
 infected men, who were not a few. 
 
 14th. I went to Wotton ; and on 16th 
 September, to visit old Secretary Nicholas, 1 
 being now at his new purchase of West 
 Horsley, 2 once mortgaged to me by Lord 
 Viscount Montague : a pretty dry seat on 
 the Down. Returned to Wotton. 
 
 1 *jth. Receiving a letter from Lord 
 Sandwich of a defeat given to the Dutch, 3 
 I was forced to travel all Sunday. I was 
 exceedingly perplexed to find that near 
 3000 prisoners were sent to me to dispose 
 of, being more than I had places fit to 
 receive and guard. 
 
 25M. My Lord Admiral being come 
 from the fleet to Greenwich, I went thence 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 150.] 
 
 2 [West Horsley Place, which passed to the 
 family of Nicholas from Ralegh's __ son, Carew. 
 "On the 2nd of March, 1665, I paid Mr. Carew 
 Ralegh the sum of ,£9750, being the full purchase 
 money for the manor, lands, etc., of West Horsley, 
 in the county of Surrey" (Sir Edward Nicholas's 
 memo., quoted in Brayley's Surrey, 1850, ii. p. 
 77). There is a monument to Sir Edward Nicholas 
 in West Horsley Church. Carew Ralegh died in 
 1666.] 
 
 $ [On the 12th, when twenty-one of the Dutch 
 Fleet were taken (see Pepys's Diary, 14th Septem- 
 ber, 1665).] 
 
 with him to the Cock-pit, to consult with 
 the Duke of Albemarle. I was peremptory 
 that, unless we had ,£10,000 immediately, 
 the prisoners would starve, and it was 
 proposed it should be raised out of the 
 East India prizes, 1 now taken by Lord 
 Sandwich. They being but two of the 
 commission, and so not empowered to 
 determine, sent an express to his Majesty 
 and Council, to know what they should 
 do. In the meantime, I had five vessels, 
 with competent guards, to keep the 
 prisoners in for the present, to be placed 
 as I should think best. After dinner 
 (which was at the General's) I went over 
 to visit his Grace the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, 2 at Lambeth. 
 
 2&th. To the General again, to acquaint 
 him of the deplorable state of our men 
 for want of provisions : returned with 
 orders. 
 
 2gt/i. To Erith, to quicken the sale of 
 the prizes lying there, with order to the 
 commissioner who lay on board till they 
 should be disposed of, ^5000 being pro- 
 portioned for my quarter. Then I delivered 
 the Dutch Vice - Admiral, who was my 
 prisoner, to Mr. Lo . . , 3 of the Mar- 
 shalsea, he giving me bond in £"500 to 
 produce him at my call. I exceedingly 
 pitied this brave unhappy person, who 
 
 1 [Two vessels. See Pepys's Diary, under 10th 
 September, 1665, and infra, 'p. 241. Evelyn has 
 not yet mentioned Pepys ; but Pepys had already 
 visited Sayes Court in the preceding May, and 
 had met Evelyn at Lord Brouncker's {ante, p. 213) 
 and Captain Cocke's (ante, p. 234). On the 10th 
 September aforesaid (a Sunday), he encountered 
 him again at Cocke's, with his fellow-Commissioner, 
 Sir W. D'Oyly ; and Pepys's vivacious account of 
 the entertainment may be here interpolated, though 
 it is neglected by Evelyn's graver pen. " The 
 receipt of this news [i.e. the taking of the East 
 India Prizes] did put us all into such an ecstasy of 
 joy, that it inspired into Sir J. >Minnes [Mennes] 
 and Mr. Evelyn such a spirit of mirth, that in all 
 my life I never met with so merry a two hours as 
 our company this night was. Among other 
 humours, Mr. Evelyn's repeating of some verses 
 made up of nothing but the various acceptations of 
 may and can, and doing it so aptly upon occasion 
 of something of that nature, and so fast, did make 
 us all die almost with laughing, and did so stop 
 the mouth of Sir J. Minnes in the middle of all his 
 mirth (and in a thing agreeing with his own 
 manner of genius) that I never saw any man so 
 out-done in all my life ; and Sir J. Minnes's mirth 
 too to see himself out-done, was the crown of all 
 our mirth." Evelyn at this date was nearly forty- 
 five ; Pepys was thirty-two.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Gilbert Sheldon.] 3 Mr. Lowman. 
 
i66 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 241 
 
 had lost with these prizes ^40,000 after 
 20 years' negotiation [trading] in the East 
 Indies. I dined in one of these vessels, of 
 1 200 tons, full of riches. 
 
 1st October. This afternoon, whilst at| 
 evening prayers, tidings were brought me 
 of the birth of a daughter 1 at Wotton, 
 after six sons, in the same chamber I had 
 first took breath in, and at the first day oi 
 that month, as I was on the last, 45 years 
 before. 
 
 4t/i. The monthly fast. 
 
 lit/i. To London, and went through 
 the whole City, having occasion to alight 
 out of the coach in several places about 
 business of money, when I was environed 
 with multitudes of poor pestiferous creatures 
 begging alms : the shops universally shut 
 up, a dreadful prospect ! I dined with my 
 Lord General ; was to receive ;£ 10,000, 
 and had guards to convey both myself and 
 it, and so returned home, through God's 
 infinite mercy. 
 
 iyt/i. I went to Gravesend ; next day 
 to Chatham ; thence to Maidstone, in 
 order to the march of 500 prisoners to 
 Leeds Castle, 2 which I had hired of Lord 
 Colepeper. I was earnestly desired by 
 the learned Sir Roger Twisden, and 
 Deputy - Lieutenants, to spare Maidstone 
 from quartering any of my sick flock. 
 Here, Sir Edward Brett sent me some 
 horse to bring up the rear. This country, 
 from Rochester to Maidstone and the 
 Downs, is very agreeable for the prospect. 
 
 21st. I came from Gravesend, where 
 Sir J. Griffith, the Governor of the Fort, 
 entertained me very handsomely. 
 
 31^. I was this day 45 years of age, 
 wonderfully preserved ; for which I blessed 
 God for His infinite goodness towards me. 3 
 
 1 [Mary Evelyn, d. 1685 (see post, under 7th 
 March, 1685, and infra, under 31st October).] 
 
 2 [Near Hollingboume in Kent, once the seat 
 of the Colepeper family. It now belongs to Mrs. 
 Wykeham Martin.] 
 
 * [On the 5th November following — a Sunday — 
 he was visited at Sayes Court by Pepys : — "By 
 water to Deptford, and there made a visit to Mr. 
 Evelyn, who, among other things, showed me 
 most excellent painting in little ; in distemper, 
 Indian ink, water-colours : graving ; and, above 
 all, the whole secret of me2zotinto, and the manner 
 of it, which is very pretty, and good things done 
 with it. lie read to me very much also of his 
 discourse, he hath been many years and now is 
 about, about Gardenage ; which will be a most 
 noble and pleasant piece. He read me part of a 
 
 2$rd November. Went home, the con- 
 tagion having now decreased considerably. 
 
 2jt/i. The Duke of Albemarle was 
 going to Oxford, where both Court and 
 Parliament had been most part of the 
 summer. There was no small suspicion 
 of my Lord Sandwich having permitted 
 divers commanders, who were at the 
 taking of the East India prizes, to break 
 bulk, and to take to themselves jewels, 
 silks, etc. : though I believe some whom I 
 could name filled their pockets, my Lord 
 Sandwich himself had the least share. 
 However, he underwent the blame, and 
 it created him enemies, and prepossessed 
 the Lord General, for he spake to me of it 
 with much zeal and concern, and I believe 
 laid load enough on Lord Sandwich at 
 Oxford. 
 
 8t/i December. To my Lord of Albemarle 
 (now returned from Oxford), who was 
 declared General at Sea, to the no small 
 mortification of that excellent person the 
 Earl of Sandwich, whom the Duke of 
 Albemarle not only suspected faulty about 
 the prizes, but less valiant ; himself 
 imagining how easy a thing it were to 
 confound the Hollanders, as well now as 
 heretofore he fought against them upon a 
 more disloyal interest. 
 
 2$th. Kept Christmas with my hospitable 
 brother, at Wotton. 
 
 30^. To Woodcote, 1 where I supped at 
 my Lady Mordaunt's at Ashstead, where 
 was a room hung with pintado, 2 full of 
 figures great and small, prettily represent- 
 ing sundry trades and occupations of the 
 Indians, with their habits ; here supped 
 also Dr. Duke, a learned and facetious 
 gentleman. 
 
 3 1 st. Now blessed be God for His ex- 
 traordinary mercies and preservations of 
 
 play or two of his making, very good, but not as 
 he conceits them, I think, to be. He showed me 
 his Hortus Hyemalis ; leaves laid up in a book of 
 several plants kept dry, which preserve colour, 
 however, and look very finely, better than any 
 herbal. In fine, a most excellent person he is, and 
 must be allowed a little for a little conceitedness ; 
 but he may well be so, being a man so much above 
 others. He read me, though with too much gusto, 
 some little poems of his own, that were not trans- 
 cendent, yet one or two very pretty epigrams ; 
 among others, of a lady looking in at a grate, and 
 being pecked at by an eagle that was there."] 
 
 1 [His brother Richard's. 1 
 
 2 [Printed or stained chintz or calico, at this 
 date imported from the East Indies. ] 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1666 
 
 me this year, when thousands, and ten 
 thousands, perished, and were swept away 
 on each side of me, there dying in our 
 parish this year 406 of the pestilence ! 
 
 1665-6: yd January. I supped in Non- 
 such House, 1 whither the office of the 
 Exchequer was transferred during the 
 plague, at my good friend's Mr. Packer's, 2 
 and took an exact view of the plaster 
 statues and basso-rilievos inserted betwixt 
 the timbers and puncheons of the outside 
 walls of the Court ; which must needs 
 have been the work of some celebrated 
 Italian. I much admired how they had 
 lasted so well and entire since the time 
 of Henry VIII., exposed as they are to 
 the air ; 3 and pity it is they are not taken 
 out and preserved in some dry place ; a 
 gallery would become them. There are 
 some mezzo-rilievos as big as the life ; the 
 story is of the Heathen Gods, emblems, 
 compartments, etc. The palace consists 
 of two courts, of which the first is of stone, 
 castle like, by the Lord Lumleys (of whom 
 it was purchased), the other of timber, a 
 Gothic fabric, but these walls incomparably 
 beautified. I observed that the appearing 
 timber - puncheons, entrelices, etc., were 
 all so covered with scales of slate, that it 
 seemed carved in the wood and painted, 
 the slate fastened on the timber in pretty 
 figures, that has, like a coat of armour, 
 preserved it from rotting. There stand in 
 
 1 Of this famous summer residence of Queen 
 Elizabeth near Epsom not a vestige remains, but 
 "the avenue planted with rows of fair elms." 
 There is a small print of Nonsuch in Speed's Map 
 of Surrey, but a larger one is given by Hoefnagle 
 in his Collection 0/ Views, some in England, but 
 chie/ly abroad. Lysons has copied the latter in 
 his Environs of Londo7i, edit. 1796, 153. Pepys 
 mentions the Exchequer money being removed to 
 Nonsuch in August, 1665, and describes the park 
 and house as they appeared in September of the same 
 year : — "Walked up and down the house and park ; 
 and a fine place it hath heretofore been, and a fine 
 prospect about the house. A great walk of an 
 elm and a walnut set one after another in order. 
 And all the house on the outside filled with figures 
 of stories, and good painting of Rubens' or 
 Holbein's doing. And one great thing is, that 
 most of the house is covered, I mean the posts and 
 quarters in the walls, covered with lead, and 
 gilded." The building was subsequently pulled 
 down by its last possessor, the Duchess of Cleve- 
 land (Lady Castlemaine), and its contents dis- 
 persed. A modern structure has been raised near 
 its site. 
 
 2 [See post, under 6th August, 1674.] 
 
 3 [They are said to have been cast in rye-dough.] 
 
 the garden two handsome stone pyramids, 
 and the avenue planted with rows of fair 
 elms, but the rest of these goodly trees, 
 both of this and of Worcester Park, 1 
 adjoining, were felled by those destructive 
 and avaricious rebels in the late war, which 
 defaced one of the stateliest seats his 
 Majesty had. 
 
 12th. After much, and indeed extra- 
 ordinary mirth and cheer, all my brothers, 
 our wives, and children, being together, 
 and after much sorrow and trouble during 
 this contagion, which separated our families 
 as well as others, I returned to my house, 
 but my wife went back to Wotton, I not 
 as yet willing to adventure her, the con- 
 tagion, though exceedingly abated, not as 
 yet wholly extinguished amongst us. 
 
 29th. I went to wait on his Majesty, 
 now returned from Oxford to Hampton- 
 Court, where the Duke of Albemarle 
 presented me to him ; he ran towards 
 me, and in a most gracious manner 
 gave me his hand to kiss, with many 
 thanks for my care and faithfulness in his 
 service in a time of such great danger, 
 when everybody fled their employments ; 
 he told me he was much obliged to me, and 
 said he was several times concerned for 
 me, and the peril I underwent, and did 
 receive my service most acceptably (though 
 in truth I did but do my duty, and O that 
 I had performed it as I ought !). After 
 this, his Majesty was pleased to talk with 
 me alone, near an hour, of several particu- 
 lars of my employment, and ordered me 
 to attend him again on the Thursday 
 following at Whitehall. Then the Duke 
 came towards me, and embraced me with 
 much kindness, telling me if he had thought 
 my danger would have been so great, he 
 would not have suffered his Majesty to 
 employ me in that station. Then came to 
 salute me my Lord of St. Albans, Lord 
 Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and 
 several great persons ; 2 after which, I got 
 home, not being very well in health. 
 
 The Court was now in deep mourning 
 for the French Queen- Mother/ 
 
 2nd February. To London ; his Majesty 
 now came to Whitehall, where I heard 
 
 1 [Worcester Park, once a part of Nonsuch 
 Great Park, is now partially built over.] 
 
 2 [See ante, pp. 201 and 239.] 
 
 3 [Anne of Austria, widow of Louis XIII., died 
 20th January, 1666.] 
 
1 666] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 243 
 
 and saw my Lord Mayor (and brethren) 
 make his speech of welcome, and the two 
 Sheriffs were knighted. 
 
 6th February. My wife and family re- 
 turned to me from the country, where they 
 t had been since August, by reason of the 
 contagion, now almost universally ceasing. 
 Blessed be God for His infinite mercy in 
 preserving us ! I having gone through so 
 much danger and lost so many of my poor 
 officers, escaping still myself that I might live 
 to recount and magnify His goodness to me. 
 
 8th. I had another gracious reception by 
 his Majesty, who called me into his bed- 
 chamber, to lay before and describe to 
 him my project of an Infirmary, which I 
 read to him, who, with great approbation, 
 recommended it to his Royal Highness. 
 
 20th. To the Commissioners of the Navy 
 who, having seen the project of the In- 
 firmary, encouraged the work, and were 
 very earnest it should be set about imme- 
 diately ; but I saw no money, though a 
 very moderate expense would have saved 
 thousands to his Majesty, and been much 
 more commodious for the cure and quarter- 
 ing of our sick and wounded, than the 
 dispersing them into private houses, where 
 many more chirurgeons and attendants 
 were necessary, and the people tempted to 
 debauchery. 
 
 21 st. Went to my Lord Treasurer for an 
 assignment of ,£40,000 upon the two last 
 quarters for support of the next year's 
 charge. Next day to Duke of Albemarle 
 and Secretary of State, to desire them to 
 propose it to the Council. 
 
 1st March. To London, and presented 
 his Majesty my book intituled, The pe7'- 
 nicious Coiisequences of the new Heresy of 
 the Jesuits against Kings and States. 1 
 
 yth. Dr. Sancroft, 2 since Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, preached before the King 
 about the identity and immutability of 
 God, on Psalm cii. 27. 
 
 13M. To Chatham, to view a place 
 designed for an Infirmary. 
 
 i$th. My charge now amounted to near 
 £7000 [weekly]. 
 
 2.2nd. The Royal Society re- assembled, 
 after the dispersion from the contagion. 
 
 24th. Sent £2000 to Chatham. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 234. 
 
 2 [Dr. William Sancroft, 1617-93, at this date 
 Dean of St. Paul's.] 
 
 1st April. To London, to consult about 
 ordering the natural rarities belonging to 
 the Repository of the Royal Society ; 
 referred to a Committee. 
 
 \oth. Visited Sir William D'Oyly, 1 sur- 
 prised with a fit of apoplexy, and in 
 extreme danger. 
 
 1 ith. Dr. Bathurst 2 preached before the 
 King, from "I say unto to you all, watch" 
 — a seasonable and most excellent dis- 
 course. When his Majesty came from 
 chapel, he called to me in the lobby, and 
 told me he must now have me sworn for 
 a Justice of Peace (having long since , 
 made me of the Commission) ; which IjhA 
 'declined as inconsistent with the other 
 service I was engaged in, and humbly 
 desired to be excused. After dinner, 
 waiting on him, I gave him the first notice 
 of the Spaniards referring the umpirage of 
 the peace betwixt them and Portugal to 
 the French King, which came to me in a 
 letter from France before the Secretaries 
 of State had any news of it. After this, 
 his Majesty again asked me if I had found 
 out any able person about our parts that 
 might supply my place of Justice of Peace 
 (the office in the world I had most indus- 
 triously avoided, in regard of the perpetual 
 trouble therepf in these numerous parishes); 
 on which I nominated one, whom the 
 King commanded me to give immediate 
 notice of to my Lord Chancellor, and I 
 should be excused ; for which I rendered 
 his Majesty many thanks. — From thence, 
 I went to the Royal Society, where I was 
 chosen by twenty-seven voices to be one 
 of their Council for the ensuing year ; but, r 
 upon my earnest suit in respect Of my 
 other affairs, I got to be excused — and so 
 home. 
 
 1 5///. Our parish was now more infected 
 with the plague than ever, and so was all 
 the country about, though almost quite 
 ceased at London. 
 
 24/h. To London about our Mint-Com- 
 mission, and sat in the Inner Court of 
 Wards. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 233. Pepys records a wager which 
 Sir William laid with him, of "a poll of ling, a 
 brace of carps, and a pottle of wine ; and Sir W. 
 Pen and Mr. Scowen to be at the eating of them " 
 3rd Tune, 1667). 
 
 2 [Dr. Ralph Bathurst, 1620-1704, King's Chap- 
 lain, President of Trinity College, Oxford, and 
 later Dean of Wells. There is a life of him by 
 Thomas Warton. ] 
 
2 44 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Li666 
 
 %th May. To Queenborough, where find- 
 ing the Richmond frigate, I sailed to the 
 Buoy of the Nore to my Lord General and 
 Prince Rupert, where was the rendezvous 
 of the most glorious fleet in the world, 
 now preparing to meet the Hollander. — 
 Went to visit my cousin, Hales, 1 at a 
 sweetly-watered place at Chilston, near 
 Bockton [Boughton Malherbe]. The next 
 morning, to Leeds Castle, once a famous 
 hold, now hired by me of my Lord Cole- 
 peper for a prison. 2 Here I flowed the 
 dry moat, made a new drawbridge, 
 brought spring water into the court of the 
 Castle to an old fountain, and took order, 
 for the repairs. 
 
 22nd. Waited on my Lord Chancellor 
 at his new palace 3 and Lord Berkeley's ; 4 
 built next to it. 
 
 24M. Dined with Lord Cornbury, 5 now 
 made Lord Chamberlain to the Queen ; 
 who kept a very honourable table. 
 
 1st June. Being in my garden at six 
 o'clock in the evening, and hearing the 
 great guns go thick off, I took horse and 
 rode that night to Rochester ; thence, next 
 day towards the Downs and sea-coast, but 
 meeting the Lieutenant of the Hampshire 
 frigate, who told me what passed, or rather 
 what had not passed, I returned to London, 
 there being no noise, or appearance, at 
 Deal, or on that coast of any engagement. 
 Recounting this to his Majesty, whom I 
 found at St. James's Park, impatiently 
 expecting, and knowing that Prince Rupert 
 was loose about three at St. Helen's Point 
 at N. of the Isle of Wight, it greatly 
 rejoiced him ; but he was astonished when 
 I assured him they heard nothing of the 
 guns in the Downs, nor did the Lieu- 
 tenant who landed there by five that 
 morning. 6 
 
 1 [Edward Hales.] 2 [See ante, p. 241.] 
 
 3 [In Piccadilly (see ante, p. 231).] 
 
 * John Berkeley, first Baron Berkeley of Stratton 
 (Stratton Fight), d. 1678. He was Lord-Lieutenant 
 of Ireland in 1670-72, and Ambassador to France 
 in 1676-77.^ His new house, next to the Lord 
 Chancellor's, was well known as Berkeley House — 
 the neighbourhood of Piccadilly being the then 
 favourite locality for what Evelyn styles "new 
 palaces." It was afterwards bought by the first 
 Duke of Devonshire, who died here in 1707. In 
 1733 it was burned down, and rebuilt by William 
 Kent for the third Duke (see^ost, under 25th Sep- 
 tember, 1672). 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 232.] 
 
 6 [Cf. Pepys's Diary, June 4, 1666.] 
 
 yd. Whit-Sunday. After sermon came 
 news that the Duke of Albemarle was still 
 in fight, and had been all Saturday, and 
 that Captain Harman's ship (the Henry) 
 was like to be burnt. Then a letter from 
 Mr. Bertie that Prince Rupert was come 4 
 up with his squadron (according to my 
 former advice of his being loose and in the 
 way), and put new courage into our fleet, 
 now in a manner yielding ground ; so that 
 now we were chasing the chasers ; that the 
 Duke of Albemarle was slightly wounded, 
 and the rest still in great danger. So, 
 having been much wearied with my 
 journey, I slipped home, the guns still 
 roaring very fiercely. 
 
 $th. I went this morning to London, 
 where came several particulars of the fight. 1 
 Afy/ooV/z. Came Sir Daniel Harvey from the 
 General, and related the dreadful encounter, 
 on which his Majesty commanded me to 
 despatch an extraordinary physician and 
 more chirurgeons. It was on the solemn 
 Fast-day when the news came ; his Majesty 
 being in the chapel made a sudden stop to 
 hear the relation, which being with much 
 advantage on our side, his Majesty com- 
 manded that public thanks should im- 
 mediately be given as for a victory. The 
 Dean of the chapel going down to give 
 notice of it to the other Dean officiating ; 
 and notice was likewise sent to St. Paul's 
 and Westminster-Abbey. But this was no 
 sooner over, than news came that our loss 
 was very great, both in ships and men ; 
 that the Prince frigate was burnt, and as 
 noble a vessel of 90 brass guns lost ; and 
 the taking of Sir George Ayscue, and ex- 
 ceeding shattering of both fleets ; so as 
 both being obstinate, both parted rather 
 for want of ammunition and tackle than 
 courage ; our General retreating like a 
 lion ; which exceedingly abated of our 
 former joy. There was, however, orders 
 given for bonfires and bells ; but, God 
 knows, it was rather a deliverance than a 
 triumph. So much it pleased God to 
 humble our late over - confidence that 
 nothing could withstand the Duke of 
 Albemarle, who, in good truth, made too 
 forward a reckoning of his success now, 
 because he had once beaten the Dutch in 
 
 1 [This was the four days' fight in the Downs 
 between Monck and Prince Rupert and the Dutch, 
 in which the victory was doubtful.] 
 
1 666] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 245 
 
 another quarrel ; and being ambitious to 
 outdo the Earl of Sandwich, whom he had 
 prejudicated as deficient in courage. 
 
 7th June. I sent more chirurgeons, linen, 
 medicaments, etc., to the several ports in 
 my district 
 
 %th. Dined with me Sir Alexander 
 Fraizer, 1 prime physician to his Majesty ; 
 afterwards, went on board his Majesty's 
 pleasure-boat, when I saw the London frigate 
 launched, a most stately ship, built by the 
 City to supply that which was burnt by 
 accident some time since ; 2 the King, 
 Lord Mayor and Sheriffs, being there 
 with great banquet. 
 
 1 \th. Trinity Monday, after a sermon, 
 applied to the re-meeting of the Corpora- 
 tion of the Trinity-House, after the late 
 raging and wasting pestilence : I dined 
 with them in their new room in Deptford, 
 the first time since it was rebuilt. 3 
 
 15M. I went to Chatham. — 16th. In the 
 
 Jemmy yacht (an incomparable sailer) to 
 
 sea, arrived by noon at the fleet at the 
 
 Buoy at the Nore, dined with Prince 
 
 Rupert and the General. 
 
 17M. Came his Majesty, the Duke, and 
 many noblemen. After Council, we went 
 to prayers. My business being despatched, 
 I returned to Chatham, having lain but 
 one night in the Royal Charles ; 4 we had 
 a tempestuous sea. I went on shore at 
 Sheerness, where they were building an 
 arsenal for the fleet, and designing a royal 
 fort with a receptacle for great ships to 
 ride at anchor ; but here I beheld the sad 
 spectacle, more than half that gallant bul- 
 wark of the kingdom miserably shattered, 
 hardly a vessel entire, but appearing rather 
 so many wrecks and hulls, so cruelly had 
 the Dutch mangled us. The loss of the 
 Prince, that gallant vessel, had been 
 a loss to be universally deplored, none 
 knowing for what reason we first engaged 
 in this ungrateful war ; we lost besides 
 nine or ten more, and near 600 men slain 
 and 1 100 wounded, 2000 prisoners; to 
 balance which, perhaps we might destroy 
 eighteen or twenty of the enemy's ships, 
 and 700 or 800 poor men. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 226.] 2 [See ante, p. 236.] 
 
 3 [This was pulled down in 1787 ; but the Cor- 
 poration had previously moved to London. Its 
 present home is on Tower Hill.] 
 
 4 [Seejost, under 8th June, 1667.] 
 
 iSV/j. Weary of this sad sight, I returned 
 home. 
 
 2nd July. Came Sir John Duncombe ] 
 and Mr. Thomas Chicheley, 2 both Privy 
 Councillors and Commissioners of His 
 Majesty's Ordnance, to visit me, and let 
 me know that his Majesty had in Council 
 nominated me to be one of the Com- 
 missioners for regulating the farming and 
 making of saltpetre through the whole 
 kingdom, and that we were to sit in the 
 Tower the next day. When they were 
 gone, came to see me Sir John Cotton, 3 
 heir to the famous antiquary, Sir Robert 
 Cotton : a pretended great Grecian, but had 
 by no means the parts, or genius of his 
 grandfather. 
 
 3rd. I went to sit with the Commissioners 
 at the Tower, where our Commission being 
 read, we made some progress in business, 
 our Secretary being Sir George Wharton, 
 that famous mathematician who wrote the 
 yearly Almanack during his Majesty's 
 troubles. 4 Thence, to Painters' Hall, to 
 our other commission, and dined at my 
 Lord Mayor's. 
 
 Ofth. The solemn Fast-day. Dr. Meggot 5 
 preached an excellent discourse before the 
 King on the terrors of God's judgments. 
 After sermon, I waited on my Lord Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury and Bishop of 
 Winchester, where the Dean of Westminster 
 spoke to me about putting into my hands 
 the disposal of fifty pounds, which the 
 charitable people of Oxford had sent to be 
 distributed among the sick and wounded 
 seamen since the battle. Hence, I went 
 to the Lord Chancellor's to joy him of his 
 Royal Highness's second son, now born at 
 
 1 " Duncomb was a judicious man, but very 
 haughty, and apt to raise enemies against himself. 
 He was an able Parliament man : but could not go 
 into all the designs of the Court ; for he had a sense 
 of religion, and a zeal for the liberty of his country " 
 (Burnet's Hist, of His Own Times, 1724, i. 265). 
 
 2 [Thomas Chicheley, 1618-94 • knighted in 1670. 
 He was Master-General of the Ordnance, 1670-74 ; 
 and also, as Evelyn tells us, a member of the Privy 
 Council.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 38 ; a.nd jtost, under 12th March, 
 1668.] 
 
 4 [George Wharton, 1617-81. He was created 
 baronet in 1677. He issued his Almanac from 
 1641 to 1666. From 1660 to 1681 he was paymaster 
 of the Ordnance Office.] 
 
 6 [Dr. Richard Meggot, d. 1692 ; afterwards 
 Dean of Winchester (sce^ost, under 16th September, 
 1685).] 
 
246 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1666 
 
 St. James's ; and to desire the use of the 
 Star-chamber for our Commissioners to 
 meet in, Painters' Hall not being so 
 convenient. 
 
 12th July. We sat the first time in the 
 Star-chamber. 1 There was now added to 
 our commission Sir George Downing 2 (one 
 that had been a great . . . against his 
 Majesty, but now insinuated into his favour ; 
 and, from a pedagogue and fanatic preacher, 
 not worth a groat, had become excessively 
 rich), to inspect the hospitals and treat 
 about prisons. 
 
 14.//1. Sat at the Tower with Sir J. 
 Duncombe 3 and Lord Berkeley, 4 to sign 
 deputations for undertakers to furnish their 
 proportions of saltpetre. 
 
 17th. To London, to prepare for the 
 next engagement of the fleets, now gotten 
 to sea again. 
 
 22nd. Our parish still infected with the 
 contagion. 
 
 2$th. The fleets engaged. I dined at 
 Lord Berkeley's, at St. James's, where 
 dined my Lady Harrietta Hyde, Lord 
 Arlington, and Sir John Duncombe. 
 
 29M. The pestilence now fresh increas- 
 ing in our parish, I forbore going to 
 church. In the afternoon came tidings of 
 our victory over the Dutch, sinking some, 
 and driving others aground, and into their 
 ports. 5 
 
 1st August. I went to Dr. Keffler, who 
 married the daughter of the famous chemist, 
 Drebbell, 6 inventor of the bodied scarlet. 
 
 1 [At the end of Westminster Hall.] 
 
 2 Sir George Downing, 1623-84, Secretary to the 
 Treasury, and Commissioner of the Customs. He 
 had been recently made a baronet (1663), and was 
 now a zealous courtier ; though, during the 
 Commonwealth, as Cromwell's Resident in Holland, 
 he had been no less zealous a republican. He 
 subsequently went to Holland as Ambassador from 
 the King. To him belongs the credit of having 
 engaged Pepys about the year 1659, as one of the 
 clerks in a department of the Exchequer then under 
 his management. For his character, of which 
 Evelyn speaks as above, and Pepys leaves a some- 
 what doubtful impression, see Lord Clarendon's 
 Life. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 245.] 4 [See ante, p. 244.] 
 
 5 [This was the defeat off the North Foreland on 
 25th July, when the Dutch were chased into their 
 harbours.] 
 
 6 Cornelius van Drebbell, 1572-1634. He was 
 famous for other discoveries besides the scarlet 
 mentioned by Evelyn — the most important of which 
 was the thermometer. He also made improvements 
 in microscopes and telescopes ; and though some- 
 
 I went to see his [Kefflers?] iron ovens, 
 made portable (formerly) for the Prince of 
 Orange's army : supped at the Rhenish 
 Wine-House * with divers Scots gentlemen. 
 
 6th. Dined with Mr. Povey, and then 
 went with him to see a country house he 
 had bought near Brentford ; 3 returning by 
 Kensington ; which house stands to a very 
 graceful avenue of trees, but it is an 
 ordinary building, especially one part. 
 
 St/i. Dined at Sir Stephen Fox's 3 with 
 several friends and, on the loth, with Mr. 
 Oudart, 4 Secretary of the Latin tongue. 
 
 ijth. Dined with the Lord Chancellor, 
 whom I intreated to visit the Hospital 
 of the Savoy, 5 and reduce it (after the 
 great abuse that had been continued) to 
 its original institution for the benefit of 
 the poor, which he promised to do. 
 
 25M. Waited on Sir William D'Oyly, 
 now recovered, as it were, miraculously. 13 
 In the afternoon, visited the Savoy Hospital, 
 where I stayed to see the miserably dis- 
 membered and wounded men dressed, and 
 gave some necessary orders. Then to my 
 Lord Chancellor, who had, with the Bishop 
 of London and others in the commission, 7 
 chosen me one of the three surveyors of 
 the repairs of Paul's, and to consider of a 
 model for the new building, or, if it might 
 be, repairing of the steeple, which was 
 most decayed. 
 
 26th. The contagion still continuing, we 
 had the Church-service at home. 
 
 thing of an empiric, possessed a considerable know- 
 ledge of chemistry and of different branches of 
 natural philosophy. 
 
 1 [Probably the Rhenish Wine House in Channel 
 or Cannon Row, where Dorset afterwards found 
 Prior reading Horace (cf. Pepys 's Diary, 30th Julv, 
 1660).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 230. This country house, situated 
 near Hounslow, was called the Priory.] 
 
 3 Sir Stephen Fox, 1627-1716. He was knighted 
 in 1665, made Clerk of the Green Cloth, and Pay- 
 master of the Forces by Charles II. He was father 
 of the first Earl of Ilchester, and of the first Baron 
 Holland, and grandfather of Charles James Fox. 
 He projected Chelsea College — the honour of 
 which has generally been attributed to Nell Gwyn. 
 He also founded a new church and a set of alms- 
 houses at his seat, Farley, in Wilts. (See post) 
 under 6th September, 1680.) 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 231.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 238.] 
 e [See ante, p. 233.] 
 
 7 [The Commission of restoration dated from 
 April, 1663. But the destruction of the building in 
 the Great Fire put an end to its labours. (Cf. Pepys's 
 Diary, 25th July, 1664.)] 
 
1 666] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 247 
 
 (yA*'2']tk August. I went to St. Paul's church, 
 where,withDr. Wren, Mr. Pratt, 1 Mr. May,' 2 
 Mr. Thomas Chicheley, 3 Mr. Slingsby, 4 
 the Bishop of London, 5 the Dean of St. 
 Paul's, 6 and several expert workmen, we 
 went about to survey the general decays 
 of that ancient and venerable church, and 
 to set down in writing the particulars of 
 what was fit to be done, with the charge 
 thereof, giving our opinion from article to 
 article. Finding the main building to 
 recede outwards, it was the opinion of 
 Chicheley and Mr. Pratt that it had been 
 so built ab origine for an effect in per- 
 spective, in regard of the height ; but I 
 was, with Dr. Wren, quite of another 
 judgment, and so we entered it ; we 
 plumbed the uprights in several places. 
 When we came to the steeple, 7 it was 
 deliberated whether it were not well 
 enough to repair it only on its old founda- 
 tion, with reservation to the four pillars ; 
 this Mr. Chicheley and Mr. Pratt were also 
 for, but we totally rejected it, and persisted 
 that it required a new foundation, not only 
 in regard of the necessity, but for that the 
 shape of what stood was very mean, and 
 we had a mind to build it with a noble 
 cupola, a form of church-building not as 
 yet known in England, but of wonderful 
 grace. For this purpose, we offered to 
 bring in a plan and estimate, which, after 
 much contest, was at last assented to, and 
 that we should nominate a committee of 
 able workmen to examine the present 
 foundation. This concluded, we drew all 
 up in writing, and so went with my Lord 
 Bishop to the Dean's. 
 
 28M. Sat at the Star-chamber. Next 
 day, to the Royal Society, where one Mer- 
 cator, 8 an excellent mathematician, pro- 
 duced his rare clock and new motion . to 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 186. Pratt was the architect of 
 Clarendon House.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 232.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 245.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 223.] 
 
 5 [Dr. Henchman (see ante, p. 202).] 
 
 6 Dr. Sancroft, afterwards Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury (see ante, p. 243). 
 
 7 [The steeple had been taken down in 1651 and 
 never effectively restored. ] 
 
 3 Nicholas Mercator, 1640-87, the mathematician, 
 not to be confounded with his namesake, the 
 inventor of Mercator's Projection. After the 
 Restoration, he settled in England, where his 
 scientific attainments procured him the honour of 
 being elected a Fellow of the Royal Society. 
 
 perform the equations, and Mr. Rooke, 
 his new pendulum. 1 
 
 2nd September. This fatal night, about 
 ten, began the deplorable fire, near Fish- 
 street, in London.- . 
 
 3rd. I had public prayers at home. >jt 
 The fire continuing, after dinner, I took * f**j 
 coach with my wife and son, and went to 
 the Bankside in Southwark, where we 
 beheld that dismal spectacle, the whole 
 city in dreadful flames near the water-side ; 
 all the houses from the Bridge, all Thames- 
 street, and upwards towards Cheapside, 
 down to the Three Cranes, 3 were now 
 consumed ; and so returned, exceeding 
 astonished what would become of the 
 rest. 
 
 The fire having continued all this night 
 (if I may call that night which was light 
 as day for ten miles round about, after a 
 dreadful manner), when conspiring with a 
 fierce eastern wind in a very dry season, 
 I went on foot to the same place ; and 
 saw the whole south part of the City 
 burning from Cheapside to the Thames, 
 and all along Cornhill (for it likewise 
 kindled back against the wind as well as 
 forward), Tower - street, Fenchurch- street, 
 Gracious-street, 4 and so along to Baynard's 
 Castle, and was now taking hold of St. 
 Paul's Church, to which the scaffolds con- 
 tributed exceedingly. The conflagration 
 was so universal, and the people so 
 astonished, that, from the beginning, I 
 know not by what despondency, or Tate, 
 they hardly stirred to quench it ; so that 
 there was not nothing heard, or seen, but 
 crying out and lamentation, running about 
 like distracted creatures, without at all 
 attempting to save even their goods ; such 
 a strange consternation there was upon 
 them, so as it burned both in breadth and 
 length, the churches, public halls, Ex- 
 change, hospitals, monuments, and orna- 
 ments ; leaping after a prodigious manner, 
 from house to house, and street to street, 
 at great distances one from the other. 
 For the heat, with a long set of fair and 
 
 1 Laurence Rooke, 1622-62, was Astronomy, 
 and subsequently Geometry, Professor of Gresham 
 College. He assisted in the formation of the 
 Royal Society. 
 
 - 2 [It began soon after midnight, on Saturday, 
 1st September, and continued until the 6th.] 
 
 3 [In the Vintry.] 
 
 •* Now Gracechurch Street. 
 
248 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1666 
 
 warm weather, had even ignited the air, 
 and prepared the materials to conceive the 
 fire, which devoured, after an incredible 
 manner, houses, furniture, and everything. 
 Here, we saw the Thames covered with 
 goods floating, all the barges and boats 
 laden with what some had time and courage 
 to save, as, on the other side, the carts, 
 etc., carrying out to the fields, which for 
 many miles were strewed with movables 
 of all sorts, and tents erecting to shelter 
 both people and what goods they could get 
 away. Oh, the miserable and calamitous 
 spectacle ! such as haply the world had 
 not seen since the foundation of it, nor 
 be outdone till the universal conflagration 
 thereof. All the sky was of a fiery aspect, 
 like the top of a burning oven, and the 
 light seen above forty miles round-about 
 for many nights. God grant mine eyes 
 may never behold the like, who now saw 
 above 10,000 houses all in one flame ! 
 The noise and cracking and thunder of 
 the impetuous flames, the shrieking of 
 women and children, the hurry of people, 
 the fall of towers, houses, and churches, 
 was like a hideous storm ; and the air all 
 about so hot and inflamed, that at the 
 last one was not able to approach it, so 
 that they were forced to stand still, and 
 let the flames burn on, which they did, 
 for near two miles in length and one in 
 breadth. The clouds also of smoke were 
 dismal, and reached, upon computation, 
 near fifty miles in length. Thus, I left 
 it this afternoon burning, resemblance of 
 Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly called 
 to my mind that passage — non e7iim hie 
 habemus stabilem civitatem : the ruins re- 
 sembling the picture of Troy. London 
 was, but is no more ! Thus, I returned. 
 
 ajh September. The burning still rages, 
 and it is now gotten as far as the Inner 
 Temple. All Fleet-street, the Old Bailey, 
 Ludgate - hill, Warwick - lane, Newgate, 
 Paul's-chain, Watling-street, now flaming, 
 and most of it reduced to ashes ; the 
 stones of Paul's flew like grenadoes, the 
 melting lead running down the streets in 
 a stream, and the very pavements glow- 
 ing with fiery redness, so as no horse, nor 
 man, was able to tread on them, and the 
 demolition had stopped all the passages, 
 so that no help could be applied. The 
 eastern wind still more impetuously driving 
 
 the flames forward. Nothing but the 
 Almighty power of God was able to stop 
 them ; for vain was the help of man. 
 
 $th. It crossed towards Whitehall ; but 
 oh ! the confusion there was then at that 
 Court ! It pleased his Majesty to com- 
 mand me, among the rest, to look after the 
 quenching of Fetterlane end, to preserve 
 (if possible) that part of Holborn, whilst 
 the rest of the gentlemen took their several 
 posts, some at one part, and some at 
 another (for now they began to bestir them- 
 selves, and not till now, who hitherto had 
 stood as men intoxicated, with their hands 
 across), and began to consider that nothing 
 was likely to put a stop but the blowing 
 up of so many houses as might make a 
 wider gap than any had yet been made by 
 the ordinary method of pulling them down 
 with engines. This some stout seamen 
 proposed early enough to have saved near 
 the whole City, but this some tenacious 
 and avaricious men, aldermen, etc., would 
 not permit, because their houses must have 
 been of the first. It was, therefore, now 
 commended to be practised ; and my con- 
 cern being particularly for the Hospital of 
 St. Bartholomew, near Smithfield, where 
 I had many wounded and sick men, made 
 me the more diligent to promote it ; nor 
 was my care for the Savoy less. It now 
 pleased God, by abating the wind, and by 
 the industry of the people, when almost 
 all was lost infusing a new spirit into 
 them, that the fury of it began sensibly 
 to abate about noon, so as it came no 
 farther than the Temple westward, nor 
 than the entrance of Smithfield, north : 
 but continued all this day and night so 
 impetuous towards Cripplegate and the 
 Tower, as made us all despair. It also 
 brake out again in the Temple ; but the 
 courage of the multitude persisting, and 
 many houses being blown up, such gaps 
 and desolations were soon made, as, with 
 the former three days' consumption, the 
 black fire did not so vehemently urge upon 
 the rest as formerly. There was yet no 
 standing near the burning and glowing 
 ruins by near a furlong's space. 
 
 The coal and wood wharfs, and magazines 
 of oil, rosin, etc., did infinite mischief, so 
 as the invective which a little before I had 
 dedicated to his Majesty and published, 1 
 
 1 Fumifugium (see ante, p. 214). 
 
i66 
 
 "j 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 249 
 
 giving warning what probably might . be 
 the issue of suffering those shops to be in 
 the City was looked upon as a prophecy. 
 
 The poor inhabitants were dispersed 
 about St. George's Fields, and Moorfields, 
 as far as Highgate, and several miles in circle, 
 some under tents, some under miserable 
 huts and hovels, many without a rag, or any 
 necessary utensils, bed or board, who from 
 delicateness, riches, and easy accommoda- 
 tions in stately and well-furnished houses, 
 were now reduced to extremest misery 
 and poverty. 
 
 In this calamitous condition, I returned 
 with a sad heart to my house, blessing and 
 adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to 
 me and mine, who, in the midst of all this 
 ruin, was like Lot, in my little Zoar, safe 
 and sound. 
 
 6th September. Thursday. I repre- 
 sented to his Majesty the case of the 
 French prisoners at war in my custody, 
 and besought him that there might be 
 still the same care of watching at all places 
 contiguous to unseized houses. It is not 
 indeed imaginable how extraordinary the 
 vigilance and activity of the King and the 
 Duke was, even labouring in person, and 
 being present to command, order, reward, 
 or encourage workmen ; by which he 
 showed his affection to his people, and 
 gained theirs. Having, then, disposed of 
 «ome under cure at the Savoy, I returned to 
 Whitehall, where I dined at Mr. Offley's, 1 
 the groom-porter, who was my relation. 
 
 Jth. I went this morning on foot from 
 Whitehall as far as London Bridge, through 
 the late Fleet-street, Ludgate-hill by St. 
 Paul's, Cheapside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, 
 Aldersgate, and out to Moorfields, thence 
 through Cornhill, etc., with extraordinary 
 difficulty, clambering over heaps of yet 
 smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking 
 where I was : the ground under my feet 
 so hot, that it even burnt the soles of my 
 shoes. In the meantime, his Majesty got 
 to the Tower by water, to demolish the 
 houses about the graff, which, being built 
 entirely about it, had they taken fire 
 and attacked the White Tower, where 
 the rnagazine of powder lay, would un- 
 doubtedly not only have beaten down and 
 destroyed all the bridge, but sunk and torn 
 the vessels in the river, and rendered the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 146.] 
 
 demolition beyond all expression for several 
 miles about the country. 
 
 At my return, I was infinitely concerned 
 to find that goodly Church, St. Paul's — 
 now a sad ruin, and that beautiful portico 
 (for structure comparable to any in Europe, 
 as not long before repaired by the late 
 King) 1 now rent in pieces, flakes of vast 
 stone split asunder, and nothing remaining 
 entire but the inscription in the architrave, 
 showing by whom it was built, which 
 had not one letter of it defaced ! It was 
 astonishing to see what immense stones the 
 heat had in a manner calcined, so that all 
 the ornaments, columns, friezes, capitals, 
 and projectures of massy Portland stone, 
 flew off, even to the very roof, where a 
 sheet of lead covering a great space (no less 
 than six acres by measure) was totally 
 melted. The ruins of the vaulted roof 
 falling, broke into St. Faith's, which being 
 filled with the magazines of books belong- 
 ing to the Stationers, and carried thither 
 for safety, they were all consumed, burning 
 for a week following. It is also observable 
 that the lead over the altar at the east end 
 was untouched, and among the divers 
 monuments the body of one bishop re- 
 mained entire. Thus lay in ashes that 
 most venerable church, one of the most 
 ancient pieces of early piety in the Christian 
 world, besides near one hundred more. 
 The lead, iron- work, bells, plate, etc., 
 melted, the exquisitely wrought Mercers' 
 Chapel, the sumptuous Exchange, the 
 august fabric of Christ Church, all the 
 rest of the Companies' Halls, splendid 
 buildings, arches, entries, all in dust ; the 
 fountains 'dried up and ruined, whilst the 
 very waters remained boiling ; the voragos 
 of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, 
 formerly warehouses, still burning in stench 
 and dark clouds of smoke ; so that in five 
 or six miles traversing about I did not see 
 one load of timber unconsumed, nor many 
 stones but what were calcined white as 
 snow. 
 
 The people, who now walked about the 
 ruins, appeared like men in some dismal 
 desert, or rather, in some great city laid 
 waste by a cruel enemy ; to which was 
 
 1 [Inigo Jones's classic portico (west front), 200 
 feet long, 40 feet high, and 50 feet deep, which was 
 an instalment of the new St. Paul's contemplated 
 by Charles I.] 
 
250 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Li 666 
 
 added the stench that came from some 
 poor creatures' bodies, beds, and other 
 combustible goods. Sir Thomas Gresham's 
 statue, though fallen from its niche in the 
 Royal Exchange, remained entire, when 
 all those of the Kings since the Conquest 
 were broken to pieces. Also the standard 
 in Cornhill, and Queen Elizabeth's effigies, 
 with some arms on Ludgate, continued 
 with but little detriment, whilst the vast 
 iron chains of the City -streets, hinges, 
 bars, and gates of prisons, were many of 
 them melted and reduced to cinders by the 
 vehement heat. Nor was I yet able to 
 pass through any of the narrow streets, 
 lDut kept the widest ; the ground and air, 
 smoke and fiery vapour, continued so in- 
 tense, that my hair was almost singed, and 
 my feet unsufferably surbated. 1 The by- 
 lanes and narrow streets were quite filled 
 up with rubbish ; nor could one have 
 possibly known where he was, but by 
 the ruins of some Church, or Hall, that 
 had some remarkable tower or pinnacle 
 remaining. 
 
 I then went towards Islington and High- 
 gate, where one might have seen 200,000 
 people of all ranks and degrees dispersed, 
 and lying along by their heaps of what 
 they could save from the fire, deploring 
 their loss ; and, though ready to perish for 
 hunger and destitution, yet not asking one 
 penny for relief, which to me appeared a 
 stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. 
 His Majesty and Council indeed took all 
 imaginable care for their relief, by pro- 
 clamation for the country to come in, and 
 refresh them with provisions. 
 
 In the midst of all this calamity and 
 confusion, there was, I know not how, an 
 alarm begun that the French and Dutch, 
 with whom we were now in hostility, were 
 not only landed, but even entering the 
 City. There was, in truth, some days 
 before, great suspicion of those two nations 
 joining ; and now that they had been the 
 occasion of firing the town. This report 
 did so terrify, that on a sudden there 
 was such an uproar and tumult that they 
 run from their goods, and, taking what 
 weapons they could come at, they could 
 not be stopped from falling on some of 
 those nations whom they casually met, 
 without sense or reason. The clamour 
 
 1 [Worn and bruised, — a farrier's word.] 
 
 and peril grew so excessive, that it made 
 the whole Court amazed, and they did 
 with infinite pains and great difficulty, 
 reduce and appease the people, sending 
 troops of soldiers and guards, to cause 
 them to retire into the fields again, where 
 they were watched all this night. I left 
 them pretty quiet, and came home suffi- 
 ciently weary and broken. Their spirits 
 thus a little calmed, and the affright abated, 
 they now began to repair into the suburbs 
 about the City, where such as had friends, 
 or opportunity, got shelter for the present ; 
 to which his Majesty's proclamation also 
 invited them. 1 
 
 1 Subjoined is the Ordinance to which Evelyn 
 alludes, as reprinted by Bray from the original 
 half-sheet in black letter : 
 
 Charles R. 
 His Majesty in his princely compassion and 
 very tender care, taking into consideration the 
 distressed condition of many of his good subjects, 
 whom the late dreadful and dismal hre hath made 
 destitute of habitations, and exposed to many 
 exigencies and necessities ; for present remedy and 
 redresse whereof, his Majesty intending to give 
 further testimony and evidences of his grace and 
 favour towards them, as occasion shall arise, hath 
 thought fit to declare and publish his royal pleasure. 
 That as great proportions of bread and all other 
 provisions as can possibly be furnished, shall be 
 daily and constantly brought, not onely to the 
 markets formerly in use, but also to such markets 
 as by his Majesties late order and declaration to 
 the Lord Mayor and Sherifs of London and 
 Middlesex have been appointed and ordained, viz. 
 Clerkenwell, Islington, Finsbury- fields, Mile-end 
 Green, and Ratclif; his Majesty being sensible 
 that this will be for the benefit also of the towns 
 and places adjoyning, as being the best expedient 
 to prevent the resort of such persons thereunto as 
 may pilfer and disturb them. And whereas also 
 divers of the said distressed persons have saved and 
 preserved their goods, which nevertheless they 
 know not how to dispose of, it is his Majesties 
 pleasure, that all Churches, Chapels, Schools, and 
 other like publick places, shall be free and open to 
 receive the said goods, when they shall be brought 
 to be there laid. And all Justices of the Peace 
 within the several Counties of Middlesex, Essex, 
 and Surrey, are to see the same to be done accord- 
 ingly. And likewise that all cities and towns 
 whatsoever shall without any contradiction receive 
 the said distressed persons, and permit them to the 
 free exercise of their manual trades ; his Majesty 
 resolving and promising, that when the present 
 exigent shall be passed over, he will take such care 
 and order, that the said persons shall be no burthen 
 to their towns, or parishes. And it is his Majesties 
 pleasure, that this his declaration be forthwith 
 published, not only by the Sherifs of London and 
 Middlesex, but also by all other Sherifs, Mayors, 
 and other chief officers, in their respective precincts 
 and limits, and by the constables in every parish. 
 And of this his Majesties pleasure all persons con- 
 
i666] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 251 
 
 Still, the plague continuing in our parish, 
 I could not, without danger, adventure to 
 our church. 
 
 10th September. I went again to the 
 ruins ; for it was now no longer a city. 
 
 13M. I presented his Majesty with a 
 survey of the ruins, and a plot for a new 
 City, 1 with a discourse on it ; whereupon, 
 after dinner, his Majesty sent for me into 
 the Queen's bedchamber, her Majesty and 
 the Duke only being present. They ex- 
 amined each particular, and discoursed on 
 them for near an hour, seeming to be 
 extremely pleased with what I had so early 
 thought on. The Queen was now in her 
 cavalier riding-habit, hat and feather, and 
 horseman's coat, going to take the air. 
 
 i6tk. I went to Greenwich Church, 
 where Mr. Plume preached very well from 
 this text : " Seeing therefore all these things 
 shall be dissolved," etc. : taking occasion 
 from the late unparalleled conflagration to 
 mind us how we ought to walk more holy 
 in all manner of conversation. 
 
 cerned are to take notice, and thereunto to give 
 due obedience to the utmost of their power, as they 
 will answer the contrary at their peril. Given at 
 our Court at Whitehall, the fifth day of September, 
 in the eighteenth year of our reign, one thousand 
 six hundred sixty-six. God save the King. 
 
 1 Evelyn has preserved his letter to Sir Samuel 
 Tuke, on the subject of the fire, and his scheme for 
 rebuilding the City. Part of his plan was to lessen 
 the declivities, and to employ the rubbish in filling 
 up the shore of the Thames to low-water mark, so 
 as to keep the basin always full. In another letter 
 to Mr. Oldenburg, Secretary to the Royal Society, 
 dated 22nd December, i666 ; he says, after mention- 
 ing his having presented his reflections on rebuild- 
 ing the City to his Majesty, that " the want of a 
 more exact plot, wherein I might have marked 
 what the fire had spared, and accommodated my 
 designe to the remaining parts, made me take it as 
 a rasa, tabula, and to forme mine idea thereof 
 accordingly : I have since lighted upon Mr. 
 Hollar's late plan, which looking upon as the most 
 accurate hitherto extant, has caus'd me something 
 to alter what I had so crudely don, though for the 
 most part I still persist in my former discourse, and 
 wiche I here send you as compleate as an imperfect 
 copy will give me leave, and the suppliment of an 
 ill memory, for since that tyme I hardly ever looked 
 on it, and it was finish'd within two or three dayes 
 after the Incendium." The plans were afterwards 
 printed by the Society of Antiquaries, and have 
 been engraved in different histories of London. 
 [That by Hollar above referred to must have been 
 the " Map of Ground Plott of the Citty of London, 
 with the Suburbes thereof ... by which is 
 exactly demonstrated the present condition since 
 the last sad accident by fire ; . . . W. Hollar, f. 
 1666. Cum Privilegio Regis."] 
 
 27 th. Dined at Sir William D'Oyly's, 1 
 with that worthy gentleman, Sir John Hol- 
 land, of Suffolk. 
 
 loth October. This day was ordered a 
 general Fast through the Nation, to humble 
 us on the late dreadful conflagration, added 
 to the plague and war, the most dismal 
 judgments that could be inflicted ; but 
 which indeed we highly deserved for our 
 prodigious ingratitude, burning lusts, dis- 
 solute court, profane and abominable lives, 
 under such dispensations of God's con- 
 tinued favour in restoring Church, Prince, 
 and people from our late intestine calamities, 
 of which we were altogether unmindful, 
 even to astonishment. This made me 
 resolve to go to our parish assembly, where 
 our Doctor preached on Luke xix. 41 : 
 piously applying it to the occasion. After 
 which, was a collection for the distressed 
 losers in the late fire. 
 
 iSt/i. To Court. It being the first time 
 his Majesty put himself solemnly into the 
 Eastern fashion of vest, changing doublet, 
 stiff collar, bands and cloak, into a comely 
 dress, after the Persian mode, with girdles 
 or straps, and shoe-strings and garters into 
 buckles, of which some were set with pre- 
 cious stones, 2 resolving never to alter it, 
 and to leave the French mode, which had 
 hitherto obtained to our great expense and 
 reproach. Upon which, divers courtiers 
 and gentlemen gave his Majesty gold by 
 way of wager that he would not persist in 
 this resolution. I had sometime before 
 presented an invective against that uncon- 
 stancy, and our so much affecting the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 233.] 
 
 2 [Rugge, in his Diurnal, thus describes this new 
 costume: — "1666, October 11. In this month his 
 Majestie and whole Court changed the fashion of 
 their clothes — viz., a close coat of cloth, pinkt with 
 a white taffety under the cutts. This in length 
 reached the calf of the leg, and upon that a sercoat 
 cutt at the breast, which hung loose and shorter 
 than the vest six inches. The breeches the Spanish 
 cut, and buskins some of cloth, some of leather, but 
 of the same colour as the vest or garment ; of never 
 the like fashion since William the Conqueror." 
 There is no portrait of Charles II. so accoutred; 
 but the dress is shown in a picture by Lely of Lord 
 Arlington engraved in Lodge's Illustrious Persons. 
 Pepys says (22nd November, 1666) that Louis XIV., 
 " in defiance to the King of England, caused all his 
 footmen to be put into vests," — an ingenious insult, 
 which Steele no doubt remembered in his pleasant 
 fable of "Brunetta and Phillis" (Spectator, No. 
 So). In any case, the Persian costume was soon 
 abandoned.] 
 
252 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1666 
 
 French fashion, to his Majesty ; in which 
 I took occasion to describe the comeliness 
 and usefulness of the Persian clothing, in 
 the very same manner his Majesty now 
 clad himself. This pamphlet I entitled 
 Tyranmis, or the Mode, and gave it to the 
 King to read. 1 I do not impute to this 
 discourse the change which soon happened, 
 but it was an identity that I could not but 
 take notice of. 
 
 This night was acted my Lord Broghili's 2 
 tragedy, called JWustapha, before their 
 Majesties at Court, at which I was present ; 
 very seldom going to the public theatres for 
 many reasons now, as they were abused to 
 an atheistical liberty ; foul and undecent 
 women now (and never till now) permitted 
 to appear and act, who inflaming several 
 young noblemen and gallants, became their 
 misses, and to some, their wives. Witness 
 the Earl of Oxford, 3 Sir R. Howard, 4 Prince 
 Rupert, the Earl of Dorset, and another 
 greater person than any of them, who fell 
 into their snares, to the reproach of their 
 noble families, and ruin of both body and 
 soul. 5 I was invited by my Lord Chamber- 
 lain to see this tragedy, exceedingly well 
 written, though in my mind I did not ap- 
 prove of any such pastime in a time of such 
 judgments and calamities. 
 
 1 [ Tyrannies, or tlu Mode ; in a Discourse 0/ 
 Sumptuary Laives, had been issued five years 
 before, in 1661. It is reprinted at pp. 308-20 of 
 vol. i. of Evelyn's Memoirs, 1819, from a first edition 
 corrected by the author for republication ; and in a 
 final MS. note added by Evelyn, he connects it 
 with the above innovation as follows: — " Note. — 
 that this was publish 'd 2 [?] years before the Vest, 
 Cravett, Garters & Boucles came to be the fashion, 
 & therefore might haply give occasion to the change 
 that ensued in those very particulars." The Persian 
 costume, however, is not specifically described in 
 Tyrannus ; and it must have been admired in Eng- 
 land long before (see Appendix I.).] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 237. Roger Lord Broghill, 1621- 
 1679, was created shortly after this, Earl of Orrery : 
 he wrote several other plays besides that here 
 noticed. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 218.] 
 
 4 [Sir Robert Howard, 1626-98, held the office of 
 Auditor of the Exchequer ; but was more celebrated 
 as an author, having written comedies, tragedies, 
 poems, histories, and translations. 
 
 5 Among the principal offenders here aimed at 
 were Mrs. Margaret Hughes, Mrs. Eleanor Gwyn, 
 Mrs. Davenport, Mrs. Uphill, and Mrs. Davis. 
 Mrs. Davenport (Roxolana) was "my Lord Ox- 
 ford's miss"; Mrs. Uphill was the actress alluded 
 to in connection with Sir R. Howard, and Mrs. 
 Hughes ensnared Prinze Rupert. Nell Gwyn and 
 Mary Davis fell to the "greater person" whom 
 Evelyn cautiously indicates. 
 
 21st October. This season, after so long 
 and extraordinary a drought in August and 
 September, as if preparatory for the dread- 
 ful fire, was so very wet and rainy as many 
 feared an ensuing famine. 
 
 28M. The pestilence, through God's 
 mercy, began now to abate considerably 
 in our town. 
 
 ■30th. To London to our office, and 
 now had I on the vest and surcoat, or 
 tunic, as it was called, after his Majesty 
 had brought the whole court to it. It was 
 a comely and manly habit, too good to 
 hold, it being impossible for us in good 
 earnest to leave the Monsieurs' vanities long. 1 
 
 31st. I heard the signal cause of my 
 Lord Cleveland 2 pleaded before the House 
 of Lords ; and was this day forty-six years 
 of age, wonderfully protected by the mercies 
 of God, for which I render him immortal 
 thanks. 
 
 14th November. I went my winter-circle 
 through my district, Rochester and other 
 places, where I had men quartered, and in 
 custody. 
 
 \$th. To Leed's Castle.^ 
 
 16th. I mustered the prisoners, being 
 about 600 Dutch and French, ordered their 
 proportion of bread to be augmented, and 
 provided clothes and fuel. Monsieur Col- 
 bert, 4 Ambassador at the Court of Eng- 
 land, this day sent money from his master, 
 the French King, to every prisoner of that 
 nation under my guard. 
 
 17 th. I returned to Chatham, my 
 chariot overturning on the steep of Bexley 
 Hill, wounded me in two places on the 
 head ; my son, Jack, being with me, was 
 like to have been worse cut by the glass ; 
 but I thank God we both escaped without 
 much hurt, though not without exceeding 
 danger. — iSfh. At Rochester. — 19M. Re- 
 turned home. 
 
 23rd. At London, I heard an extra- 
 ordinary case before a Committee of the 
 whole House of Commons, in the Com- 
 mons' House of Parliament, between one 
 Captain Taylor and my Lord Viscount 
 
 1 [See ante, under 18th October.] 
 
 2 Thomas Wentworth, 1591-1667, created in Feb- 
 ruary, 1627, Baron Wentworth of Nettlestead, and 
 Earl of Cleveland. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 241.] 
 
 4 [Charles Colbert, Marquis de Croissy, 1625-96, 
 a brother of Louis the Fourteenth's famous Minister 
 and Financier, Jean-Baptiste Colbert.] 
 
1 667 J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 253 
 
 Mordaunt, 1 where, after the lawyers had 
 pleaded and the witnesses been examined, 
 such foul and dishonourable things were 
 produced against his Lordship, of tyranny 
 during his government of Windsor Castle, 
 of which he was Constable, incontinence, 
 and suborning witnesses (of which last, one 
 Sir Richard Breames was most concerned), 
 that I was exceedingly interested for his 
 Lordship, who was my special friend, and 
 husband of the most virtuous lady in the 
 world. We sat till near ten at night, and 
 yet but half the Counsel had done on be- 
 half of the Plaintiff. The question then 
 was put for bringing -in of lights to sit 
 longer. This lasted so long before it was 
 determined, and raised such a confused 
 noise among the Members, that a stranger 
 would have been astonished at it. I ad- 
 mire that there is not a rationale to regulate 
 such trifling accidents, which consume much 
 time, and is a reproach to the gravity of so 
 great an assembly of sober men. 
 
 27 th November. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comp- 
 troller of the Household, died at Whitehall, 2 
 and his Majesty conferred the white staff 
 on my brother Commissioner for sick and 
 wounded, Sir Thomas Clifford, 3 a bold 
 young gentleman, of a small fortune in 
 Devon, but advanced by Lord Arlington, 
 Secretary of State, to the great astonish- 
 ment of all the Court. This gentleman 
 was somewhat related to me by the 
 marriage of his mother to my nearest 
 kinsman, Gregory Coale, 4 and was ever 
 my noble friend, a valiant and daring 
 person, but by no means fit for a supple 
 and flattering courtier. 
 
 2%th. Went to see Clarendon House, 5 
 now almost finished, a goodly pile to see 
 to, but had many defects as to the 
 architecture, yet placed most gracefully. 
 After this, I waited on the Lord Chancellor, 
 who was now at Berkshire House, 6 since 
 the burning of London. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 193. The whole proceedings in 
 this affair are to be found in the Journals of Lords 
 and Commons, under date of this year. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 225.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 233. Clifford was subsequently 
 Comptroller, and Treasurer of the Household. 
 He " do speak very well and neatly " — says Pepys.] 
 
 4 Of this " nearest kinsman " and his family, 
 seated at Petersham in Surrey, see Bray's History, 
 i. 439, 441, but his precise connection or kinsman- 
 ship with the Evelyns does not appear. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 231.] 
 
 6 Berkshire or Cleveland House, St. James's, 
 
 2nd December. Dined with me Monsieur 
 Kiviet, 1 a Dutch gentleman-pensioner of 
 Rotterdam, who came over for protection, 
 being of the Prince of Orange's party, now 
 not welcome in Holland. The King 
 knighted him for some merit in the 
 Prince's behalf. He should, if caught, 
 have been beheaded with Monsieur Buat, 
 and was brother-in-law to Van Tromp, the 
 sea-general. With him came Mr. Gabriel 
 Sylvius, 2 and Mr. Williamson, secretary 
 to Lord Arlington; 3 M. Kiviet came to 
 examine whether the soil about the river 
 of Thames would be proper to make 
 clinker-bricks, 4 and to treat with me about 
 some accommodation in order to it. 
 
 1666-7 : tyh January. To the Royal 
 Society, which since the sad conflagration 
 were invited by Mr. Howard 5 to sit at 
 Arundel House in the Strand, who, at my 
 instigation, likewise bestowed on the Society 
 that noble library 6 which his grandfather 
 especially, and his ancestors had collected. 
 This gentleman had so little inclination to 
 books, that it was the preservation of them 
 from embezzlement. 
 
 24th. Visited my Lord Clarendon, and 
 presented my son John, to him, now pre- 
 paring to go to Oxford, of which his Lord- \jc 
 ship was Chancellor. This evening I heard 
 rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and one 
 woman, in his Majesty's green chamber, 
 next his cabinet. 
 
 belonging to the Howards, Earls of Berkshire. It 
 was purchased and presented by Charles II. to 
 Barbara Duchess of Cleveland, and was then of 
 great extent ; she, however, afterwards sold part, 
 which was divided into various houses. The name 
 survives in Cleveland Court. 
 
 1 [Sir John Kiviet. See post, under 6th March 
 and 7th September, 1667. He is probably the 
 " Kevet, Burgomaster of Amsterdam," mentioned 
 by Pepys under 17th February, 1667, as arranging 
 the Peace with Lord Arlington.] 
 
 2 [See post, under nth November, 1677.] 
 
 3 See ante, p. 234. Pepys describes Williamson 
 (6th February, 1663) as "a pretty knowing man 
 and a scholar, but, it may be, thinks himself to be 
 too much so." 
 
 4 [Cf. ante, p. 16.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 128 ; and post, under 19th 
 September, 1667.] 
 
 6 [See/ost, under March, 1669, and 29th August, 
 1678. Mr. Howard's grandfather, the second Earl 
 of Arundel (see ante, p. 9), had purchased many 
 of the books during his embassy to Vienna in 1636. 
 Part had come from the library collected at Buda 
 in 1485 by Matthew Corvinus, King of Hungary, 
 which, after his death in 1490, had passed into the 
 possession of Durer's friend, Bilibald Pirckheimer 
 of Nuremberg.! 
 
254 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1667 
 
 i 
 
 29I/1 January. To London, in order to 
 my son's Oxford journey, who, being very 
 early entered both in Latin and Greek, and 
 prompt to learn beyond most of his age, I 
 was persuaded to trust him under the 
 tutorage of Mr. Bohun, Fellow of New 
 College, 1 who had been his preceptor in 
 my house some years before ; but, at 
 Oxford, under the inspection of Dr. 
 Bathurst, President of Trinity College, 2 
 where I placed him, not as yet thirteen 
 years old. He was newly out of long 
 coats. 3 
 
 l^th February. My little book, in 
 answer to Sir George Mackenzie 4 on 
 Solitude, was now published, entitled 
 Public Employment, and an Active Life, 
 and all its appanages, preferred to Solitude. , 5 
 
 18th. I was present at a magnificent 
 ball, or masque, in the theatre at the Court, 
 where their Majesties and all the great 
 lords and ladies danced, infinitely gallant, 
 the men in their richly embroidered most 
 becoming vests, 6 
 
 19///. I saw a Comedy acted at Court. 
 In the afternoon, I witnessed a wrestling 
 match for ^"iooo in St. James's Park, 
 before his Majesty, a vast assemblage of 
 lords and other spectators, betwixt the 
 western and northern men, Mr. Secretary 
 Morice and Lord Gerard being the judges. 
 The western men won. Many great sums 
 were betted. 
 
 6l h March. I proposed to my Lord 
 Chancellor Monsieur Kiviet's undertaking 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 239.] 2 [See ante, p. 243.] 
 
 3 In illustration of the garb which succeeded the 
 "long coats" out of which lads of twelve or thirteen 
 were thus suffered to emerge, it may be mentioned 
 that there once hung upon the walls of the Swan 
 Inn at Leatherhead in Surrey, a picture of four 
 children, dates of birth between 1640 and 1650, of 
 whom a lad of about the age of young Evelyn is 
 represented in a coat reaching to his ankles. 
 
 4 Sir George Macken2ie of Rosehaugh, 1636-91, 
 King's advocate, who wrote several works on the 
 Scottish laws, and various essays and poetical 
 pieces impost, under 9th March, 1690). 
 
 5 Reprinted in Miscellaneous Writings, pp. 501- 
 552. In a letter to Cowley, 12th March, 1666-67, 
 Evelyn apologises for having written against that 
 life which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so 
 much admiring, assuring him he neither was nor 
 could be serious in avowing such a preference. 
 (See Appendix VI.) [and an article by Mr. Gilbert 
 R. Redgrave in The Library, 1901, ii. 349, on the 
 different issues of Evelyn's pamphlet. Pepys 
 thought the book pretty for "a bye discourse" 
 (Diary, 26th May, 1667).] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 252.] 
 
 to wharf the whole river of Thames, or 
 quay, from the Temple to the Tower, as 
 far as the fire destroyed, with brick, with- 
 out piles, both lasting and ornamental. 1 — 
 Great frosts, snow, and winds, prodigious 
 at the vernal equinox ; indeed it has been 
 a year of prodigies in this nation, plague, 
 war, fire, rain, tempest and comet. 
 
 14//*. Saw The Virgin- Queen? a play 
 written by Mr. Dryden. 
 
 22nd. Dined at Mr. Secretary Morice's, 3 
 who showed me his library, which was a 
 well-chosen collection. This afternoon, I 
 had audience of his Majesty, concerning 
 the proposal I had made of building the 
 Quay. 
 
 26//*. Sir John Kiviet dined with me. 
 We went to search for brick-earth, in order 
 to a great undertaking. 4 
 
 4th April. The cold so intense, that 
 there was hardly a leaf on a tree. 
 
 18th. I went to make court to the 
 Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, at their 
 house in Clerkenwell, 5 being newly come 
 out of the north. They received me with 
 great kindness, and I was much pleased 
 with the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, 
 and discourse of the Duchess. 
 
 22nd. Saw the sumptuous supper in the 
 Banqueting -house at Whitehall, on the 
 eve of St. George's Day, where were 
 all the companions of the Order of the 
 Garter. 
 
 23rd. In the morning, his Majesty went 
 to chapel with the Knights of the Garter, 
 all in their habits and robes, ushered by 
 the heralds ; after the first service, they 
 went in procession, the youngest first, the 
 Sovereign last, with the Prelate of the 
 Order and Dean, who had about his neck 
 the book of the Statutes of the Order ; and 
 then the Chancellor of the Order (old Sir 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 253.] 
 
 2 The Virgin Queen which Evelyn saw was 
 Dryden' s Maiden Queen. Pepys saw it on the 
 night of its first production (twelve days before 
 Evelyn's visit) ; and was charmed by Nell Gwyn's 
 Florimel. " So great performance of a comical 
 part was never, I believe, in the world before" 
 (21st March, 1667). 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 215.] 4 [See ante, p. 253O 
 5 [This, now non-existent, was the town house 
 
 of William Cavendish, Earl, Marquis, and Duke 
 of Newcastle, 1592 - 1676, and his second wife, 
 Margaret Lucas, 1624-74 (see post, under 25th 
 and 27th April). In 1667, the Duchess published 
 a high-flown Life of her husband, of which a 
 reprint was issued in 1872.] 
 
i66 7 J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 2 55 
 
 Henry de Vic), 1 who wore the purse about 
 his neck; then the Heralds and Garter- 
 King -at -Arms, Clarencieux, Black Rod. 
 But before the Prelate and Dean of Windsor 
 went the gentlemen of the chapel and 
 choristers, singing as they marched ; be- 
 hind them two doctors of music in damask 
 robes ; this procession was about the courts 
 at Whitehall. Then, returning to then- 
 stalls and seats in the chapel, placed under 
 each knight's coat-armour and titles, the 
 second service began. Then, the King 
 offered at the altar, an anthem was sung ; 
 then, the rest of the Knights offered, and 
 lastly proceeded to the Banqueting-house 
 to a great feast. The King sat on an 
 elevated throne at the upper end at a table 
 alone ; the Knights at a table on the right 
 hand, reaching all the length of the room ; 
 over-against them a cupboard of rich gilded 
 plate ; at the lower end, the music ; on the 
 balusters above, wind-music, trumpets, and 
 kettle-drums. The King was served by 
 the lords and pensioners, who brought 
 up the dishes. About the middle of the 
 dinner, the Knights drank the King's 
 health, then the King theirs, when the 
 trumpets and music played and sounded, 
 the guns going off at the Tower. At the 
 Banquet, came in the Queen, and stood 
 by the King's left hand, but did not sit. 
 Then was the banqueting-stuff flung about 
 the room profusely. In truth, the crowd 
 was so great, that though I stayed all the 
 supper the day before, I now stayed no 
 longer than this sport began, for fear of 
 disorder. The cheer was extraordinary, 
 each Knight having forty dishes to his mess, 
 piled up five or six high ; the room hung 
 with the richest tapestry. 
 
 2$th April. Visited again the Duke of 
 Newcastle, with whom I had been acquainted 
 long before in France, where the Duchess 
 had obligation to my wife's mother for her 
 marriage there ; she was sister to Lord 
 Lucas,^ and maid of honour then to the 
 Queen- Mother ; married in our chapel at 
 Paris. 3 My wife being with me, the Duke 
 and Duchess both would needs bring her 
 to the very Court. 
 
 26th. My Lord Chancellor showed me 
 all his newly finished and furnished palace 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 23.] 
 
 2 [Sir Charles Lucas, shot by Ireton at Col- 
 chester in 1648.] 3 [In April, 1645.] 
 
 and library ; then, we went to take the air 
 in Hyde Park. 
 
 27M. I had a great deal of discourse 
 with his Majesty at dinner. In the after- 
 noon, I went again with my wife to the ,jjf 
 Duchess of Newcastle, who received her $ 
 in a kind of transport, suitable to her ex- 
 travagant humour and dress, which was 
 very singular. 1 
 
 Stk May. Made up accounts with our 
 Receiver, which amounted to ^33, 936 : 1 : 4. 
 Dined at Lord Cornbury's, with Don 
 Francisco de Melos, Portugal Ambassador, 
 and kindred to the Queen : of the party 
 were Mr. Henry Jermyn, 2 and Sir Henry 
 Capel. 3 Afterwards I went to Arundel 
 House, to salute Mr. Howard's sons, newly 
 returned out of France. 
 
 1 \th. To London ; dined with the Duke 
 of Newcastle, and sat discoursing with her 
 Grace in her bedchamber after dinner, till 
 my Lord Marquis of Dorchester with other 
 company came in, when I went away. 
 
 2ptk. To London, to wait on the 
 Du chess of ^ eweasUe (who was a mighty 
 pretender to learning, poetry, and philo- 
 sophy, and had in both published divers 
 books) to the Royal Society, whether she 
 came in great pomp, and being received by 
 our Lord President at the door of our 
 meeting-room, the mace, etc., carried be- 
 fore him, had several experiments showed 
 to her. I conducted her Grace to her 
 coach, and returned home. 4 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 254. Mrs. Evelyn has left an 
 unvarnished account of this visit in a letter to Dr. 
 Bohun in 1667. "I was surprised" — she says — 
 " to find so much, extravagancy and vanity in any 
 person not confined within four walls. Her [the 
 Duchess's] habit particular, fantastical, not un- 
 becoming a good shape, which she may truly boast 
 of. Her face discovers the facility of the sex, in 
 being yet persuaded it deserves the esteem years 
 forbid, by the infinite care she takes to place her 
 curls and patches. Her mien surpasses the im- 
 agination of poets, or the descriptions of a romance 
 heroine's greatness ; her gracious bows, seasonable 
 nods, courteous stretching out of her hands, twink- 
 ling of her eyes, and various gestures of approba- 
 tion, show what may be expected from her discourse, 
 which is as airy, empty, whimsical and rambling 
 as her books, aiming at science, difficulties, high 
 notions, terminating commonly in nonsense, oaths, 
 and obscenity." Cf. also 1'epys's Diary, 18th 
 March, 1668.} 
 
 2 Afterwards, 1685, Baron Jermyn of Dover. 
 
 a Afterwards, 1692, Baron Capel of Tewkesbury, 
 and Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. He died 1696. 
 
 4 [Pepys also gives an account of this visit, under 
 the same date. The Society was not without 
 
256 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1667 
 
 1st June. I went to Greenwich, where 
 his Majesty was trying divers grenadoes 
 shot out of cannon at the Castlehill, from 
 the house in the Park ; they brake not till 
 they hit the mark, the forged ones brake 
 not at all, but the cast ones very well. 
 The inventor was a German there present. 
 At the same time, a ring was showed to 
 the King, pretended to be a projection of 
 mercury, and malleable, and said by the 
 gentlemen to be fixed by the juice of a 
 plant. 
 
 Zth. To London, alarmed by the Dutch, 
 who were fallen on our fleet at Chatham, 
 by a most audacious enterprise entering 
 the very river with part of their fleet, doing 
 us not only disgrace, but incredible mis- 
 chief in burning several of our best men- 
 of-war lying at anchor and moored there, 
 and all this through our unaccountable 
 negligence in not setting out our fleet in due 
 time. 1 This alarm caused me, fearing the 
 enemy might venture up the Thames even 
 to London (which they might have done 
 with ease, and fired all the vessels in the 
 river, too), to send away my best goods, 
 plate, etc., from my house to another 
 place. The alarm was so great that it put 
 both Country and City into a panic, fear 
 and consternation, such as I hope I shall 
 never see more ; everybody was flying, 
 none knew why or whither. Now, there 
 
 apprehension that the town would be "full of 
 ballads" about the honour done them.] 
 
 1 [This was the Chatham disaster. In June 
 sixty -one Dutch men-of-war under De Ruyter 
 entered the Thames, destroyed the unfinished fort 
 at Sheerness (June 11), and sailed up the Medway, 
 breaking the chain at Gillingham. At Chatham 
 they burned three ships (see post, p. 257), and 
 captured the Royal Charles, formerly the Naseby, 
 which, after fighting the battles of the Common- 
 wealth, had been despatched to Scheveling in May, 
 1660, to bring Charles ll. to Dover. Peter Pett 
 (see ante, p. 228) was made the scapegoat upon 
 this occasion : — 
 
 After this loss, to relish discontent, 
 Some one must be accused by Parliament ; 
 All our miscarriages on Pett must fall, 
 His name alone seems fit to answer all. 
 
 Thus, and at greater length, sings Andrew Marvell 
 in his Last Instructions to a Painter about the 
 Dutch Wars, 1667, 11. 717-20. The Commons 
 threatened to impeach Pett for carelessness, and he 
 was superseded ; but it was well known that the 
 real fault lay with the King. In the Museum at 
 Amsterdam is a picture by Jan Pieters commemor- 
 ating the Dutch success ; and the stern of the 
 Royal Charles is still preserved at the Hague 
 (Cornhill Magazine, viii. 550).] 
 
 were land-forces despatched with the Duke 
 of Albemarle, Lord Middleton, 1 Prince 
 Rupert, and the Duke, to hinder the Dutch 
 coming to Chatham, fortifying Upnor 
 Castle, and laying chains and bombs ; but 
 the resolute enemy brake through all, and 
 set fire on our ships, and retreated in spite, 
 stopping up the Thames, the rest of the 
 fleet lying before the mouth of it. 
 
 14M. I went to see the work at Wool- 
 wich, a battery to prevent them com- 
 ing up to London, which Prince Rupert 
 commanded, and sunk some ships in the 
 river. 
 
 17//Z. This night, about two o'clock, 
 some chips and combustible matter pre- 
 pared for some fire-ships, taking flame in 
 Deptford - yard, made such a blaze, and 
 caused such an uproar in the Tower (it 
 being given out that the Dutch fleet was 
 come up, and had landed their men and 
 fired the Tower), as had like to have 
 done more mischief before people would 
 be persuaded to the contrary and believe 
 the accident. Everybody went to their 
 arms. These were sad and troublesome 
 times. 
 
 24M. The Dutch fleet still continuing 
 to stop up the river, so as nothing could 
 stir out or come in, I was before the 
 Council, and commanded by his Majesty 
 to go with some others and search about 
 the environs of the city, now exceedingly 
 distressed for want of fuel, whether there 
 could be any peat, or turf, found fit for use. 
 The next day, I went and discovered 
 enough, and made my report that there 
 might be found a great deal ; but nothing 
 further was done in it. 
 
 281/1. I went to Chatham, and thence 
 to view not only what mischief the Dutch 
 had done ; but how triumphantly their 
 whole fleet lay within the very mouth of 
 the Thames, all from the North Foreland, 
 Margate, even to the Buoy of the Nore — 
 a dreadful spectacle as ever Englishmen 
 saw, and a dishonour never to be wiped 
 
 - * John Middleton, 1619-74, was first a Parlia- 
 mentary general, but subsequently fought for 
 Charles II. at Worcester, and otherwise distin- 
 guished himself as a Royalist officer till the 
 Restoration, when he was created first Earl of 
 Middleton. He was Commander-in-Chief of the 
 Forces in Scotland, Governor of Edinburgh Castle, 
 Lord High Commissioner to the Scottish Parlia- 
 ment, and finally Governor of Tangier, where he 
 died. 
 
1667] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 257 
 
 off! Those who advised his Majesty to 
 prepare no fleet this spring deserved — I 
 know what — but 1 — 
 
 Here in the river off Chatham, just 
 before the town, lay the carcase of the 
 London (now the third time burnt), the 
 Royal Oak, the James, etc., yet smoking; 2 
 and now, when the mischief was done, we 
 were making trifling forts on the brink of 
 the river. Here were yet forces, both of 
 horse and foot, with General Middleton 
 continually expecting the motions of the 
 enemy's fleet. I had much discourse with 
 him, who was an experienced commander. 
 I told him I wondered the King did not 
 fortify Sheerness 3 and the Ferry ; both 
 abandoned. 
 
 2nd July. Called upon by my Lord 
 Arlington, as from his Majesty, about the 
 new fuel. The occasion why I was men- 
 tioned, was from what I said in my Sylva 
 three years before, 4 about a sort of fuel for 
 a need, which obstructed a patent of Lord 
 Carlingford, 5 who had been seeking for it 
 himself ; he was endeavouring to bring me 
 into the project, and proffered me a share. 
 I met my Lord ; and, on the 9th, by an 
 order of Council, went to my Lord Mayor, 
 to be assisting. In the meantime they had 
 made an experiment of my receipt of 
 koullies, which I mention in my book to be 
 made at Maestricht, with a mixture of 
 charcoal dust and loam, and which was 
 tried with success at Gresham College (then 
 being the exchange for the meeting of the 
 merchants since the fire) for everybody to 
 see. This done, I went to the Treasury 
 
 1 According to the Life of King James the 
 Second, 1816, i. 425, these advisers were "the 
 Lord Chancellor, the Lord Treasurer Southampton, 
 the Duke of Albemarle, and the other Ministers." 
 They "perswaded the King upon pretence of 
 saving charges, to lay up the first and Second 
 Rate of Ships, and to send out such only as were 
 most proper to interrupt the Enemy's Trade, and 
 only to make a defensive war." The Duke of 
 York opposed these measures ; but he was over- 
 ruled. (See also p. 258.) 
 
 2 [Each doleful day still with fresh loss returns, 
 
 The Loyal London now a third time burns, 
 And the true Royal Oak and Royal James, 
 Allied in fate, increase with theirs her flames. 
 
 Marvell, ut supra.} 
 
 3 Since done. — Evelyn's Note. 
 
 * [Sylva, 1664, Bk. iii. ch. iv., ''Of Timber, the 
 Seasoning and Uses, and Fuel."] 
 
 5 Theobald TaafTe, second Viscount Taaffe, 
 created Earl of Carlingford in 1662, d. 1677. 
 
 for j£ 12,000 for the sick and wounded yet 
 on my hands. 
 
 Next day, we met again about the fuel at 
 Sir J. Armorer's in the Mews. 
 
 St/i. My Lord Brereton and others dined 
 at my house, where I showed them proof of 
 my new fuel, which was very glowing, and 
 without smoke or ill smell. 
 
 10M. I went to see Sir Samuel Mor- 
 land's 1 inventions and machines, arith- 
 metical wheels, quench - fires, and new 
 harp. 
 
 17M. The Master of the Mint and 
 his lady, Mr. Williamson, Sir Nicholas 
 Armorer, 2 Sir Edward Bowyer, Sir 
 Anthony Auger, and other friends dined 
 with me. 
 
 2gt/i. I went to Gravesend ; the Dutch 
 fleet still at anchor before the river, where 
 I saw five of his Majesty's men-at-war 
 encounter above twenty of the Dutch, in 
 the bottom of the Hope, chasing them 
 with many broadsides given and returned 
 towards the buoy of the Nore, where the 
 body of their fleet lay, which lasted till 
 about midnight. One of their ships was 
 fired, supposed by themselves, she being 
 run on ground. Having seen this bold 
 action, and their braving us so far up the 
 river, I went home the next day, not with- 
 out indignation at our negligence, and the 
 nation's reproach. It is well known who 
 of the Commissioners of the Treasury gave 
 
 1 Aubrey (in his account of Surrey, vol. i. p. 12) 
 says : " Under the equestrian Statue of Charles II., 
 in the great Court at Windsor, is an engine for 
 raising water, contrived by Sir Samuel Morland, 
 alias Morley [1625-95]. He was son of Sir Samuel 
 Morland, of Sulhamsted Bannister, Berks, created 
 Baronet by Charles II., in consideration of services 
 performed during his exile. The son was a great 
 mechanic, and was presented with a gold medal, 
 and made Magister Mechanicqrutn by the King, in 
 1681. He invented the drum capstands, for weigh- 
 ing heavy anchors : the speaking trumpet and other 
 useful engines. He died and was buried at Ham- 
 mersmith, 1696. There is a monument for the two 
 wives of Sir Samuel Morland in Westminster Abbey . 
 There is a print of the son, by Lombart, after Lely. 
 This Sir Samuel, the son, built a large room in his 
 garden at Vauxhall, which was much admired^ at 
 that time. On the top was a punchinello, holding 
 a dial." 
 
 2 Sir Nicholas (a different person from Sir James) 
 Armorer was Equerry to Charles II. Pepys, 
 under 23rd September, 1667, tells a curious anec- 
 dote of his inducing the King to drink the Duke 
 of York's health on his knees. The Queen of 
 Bohemia talks of him familiarly in her letters as 
 Nick Armourer. 
 
258 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1667 
 
 advice that the charge of setting forth a 
 fleet this year might be spared, Sir W. C. 
 (William Coventry) by name. 1 
 
 1st August. I received the sad news of 
 Abraham Cowley's death, 2 that incom- 
 parable poet and virtuous man, my very 
 dear friend, and was greatly deplored. 
 
 yd. Went to Mr. Cowley's funeral, 
 whose corpse lay at Wallingford House, 3 
 and was thence conveyed to Westminster 
 Abbey in a hearse with six horses and all 
 funeral decency, near a hundred coaches of 
 noblemen and persons of quality following ; 
 among these, all the wits of the town, 
 divers bishops and clergymen. He was 
 interred next Geoffrey Chaucer, and near 
 Spenser. A goodly monument is since 
 erected to his memory. 4 
 
 Now did his Majesty again dine in the 
 presence, in ancient state, with music and 
 all the court-ceremonies, which had been 
 interrupted since the late war. 
 
 %th. Visited Mr. Oldenburg, a close 
 prisoner in the Tower, being suspected of 
 writing intelligence. I had an order from 
 Lord Arlington, Secretary of State, which 
 caused me to be admitted. This gentle- 
 man was secretary to our Society, and I 
 am confident will prove an innocent person. 5 
 
 15M. Finished my account, amounting 
 to ,£25,000. 
 
 17th. To the funeral of Mr. Farringdon, 
 a relation of my wife's. 
 
 There was now a very gallant horse to 
 be baited to death with dogs ; but he fought 
 them all, so as the fiercest of them could 
 not fasten on him, till the men run him 
 through with their swords. This wicked 
 and barbarous sport deserved to have 
 been punished in the cruel contrivers to 
 get money, under pretence that the horse 
 had killed a man, which was false. I 
 would not be persuaded to be a spectator. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 257 ; and Pepys's Diary, April i, 
 and June 14, 1667.] 
 
 2 [28th July, 1667.] 
 
 3 [On the site of the Admiralty, and occupied at 
 this date by the poet's friend and brother collegian, 
 the second Duke of Buckingham.] 
 
 4 [At the cost of the Duke of Buckingham, with 
 an epitaph by Bishop Sprat, who wrote Cowley's 
 Life.] 
 
 5 Henry Oldenburg, 1615-77. Secretary to the 
 Royal Society, 1663-77. He was committed to 
 the Tower, as Pepys informs us, " for writing news 
 to a virtuoso in France " (25th June, 1667), but was 
 shortly afterwards liberated. 
 
 list. Saw the famous Italian puppet- 
 play, 1 for it was no other. 
 
 24//Z. I was appointed, with the rest of 
 my brother Commissioners, to put in execu- 
 tion an order of Council for freeing the 
 prisoners- at- war in my custody at Leeds 
 Castle, and taking off his Majesty's extra- 
 ordinary charge, having called before us 
 the French and Dutch agents. The Peace 
 was now proclaimed, in the usual form, by 
 the heralds-at-arms. 2 
 
 2$tk. After evening service, I went to 
 visit Mr. Vaughan, 3 who lay at Greenwich, 
 a very wise and learned person, one 
 of Mr. Selden's executors and intimate 
 friends. 
 
 27M. Visited the Lord Chancellor, to 
 whom his Majesty had sent for the seals a 
 few days before ; 4 I found him in his bed- 
 chamber, very sad. The Parliament had 
 accused him, and he had enemies at Court, 
 especially the buffoons and ladies of pleas- 
 ure, because he thwarted some of them, 
 and stood in their way ; I could name some 
 of the chief. The truth is, he made few 
 friends during his grandeur among the 
 royal sufferers, but advanced the old rebels. 
 He was, however, though no considerable 
 lawyer, one who kept up the form and 
 substance of things in the nation with more 
 solemnity than some would have had. He 
 was my particular kind friend, on all occa- 
 sions. The Cabal, 5 however, prevailed, 
 and that party in Parliament. Great divi- 
 sion at Court concerning him, and divers 
 great persons interceding for him. 
 
 2$tL I dined with my late Lord Chan- 
 cellor, where also dined Mr. Ashburnham, 
 
 1 [Perhaps at Charing Cross, where, in this year, 
 " ye Itallian popet player " had a Booth (Overseers' 
 Books of St. Martin in the Fields, quoted in Cun- 
 ningham's London).} 
 
 2 [It had been concluded July 21. All prisoners 
 were to be set free ; and the Dutch agreed to lower 
 their flag to British ships of war.] 
 
 3 [John Vaughan, afterwards Sir John, 1603-74, 
 and Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. He was 
 active in the impeachment of Clarendon. Selden 
 died 30th November, 1654.] 
 
 4 [He was deprived of his office, August 30: im- 
 peached by the Commons, November 12 ; and re- 
 tired to the Continent by the King's command, 
 November 29. He died at Rouen in 1674, having 
 employed the interim in writing his History of tfie 
 Rebellion. ] 
 
 5 [The new Ministry formed on the Chancellor's 
 dismissal.] 
 
 6 John Ashburnham, 1603-71, Groom of the Bed- 
 chamber to Charles I. and Charles II. 
 
1667] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 259 
 
 and Mr. W. Legge, 1 of the Bedchamber ; 
 his Lordship pretty well in heart, though 
 now many of his friends and sycophants 
 abandoned him. 
 
 In the afternoon, to the Lords Commis- 
 sioners for money, and thence to the audi- 
 ence of a Russian Envoy in the Queen's 
 presence-chamber, introduced with much 
 state, the soldiers, pensioners, and guards 
 in their order. His letters of credence 
 brought by his secretary in a scarf of sar- 
 senet, their vests sumptuous, much em- 
 broidered with pearls. He delivered his 
 speech in the Russ language, but without 
 the least action, or motion, of his body, 
 which was immediately interpreted aloud 
 by a German that spake good English : 
 half of it consisted in repetition of the 
 Czar's titles, which were very haughty and 
 oriental : the substance of the rest was, 
 that he was only sent to see the King and 
 Queen, and know how they did, with much 
 compliment and frothy language. Then, 
 they kissed their Majesties' hands, and 
 went as they came ; but their real errand 
 was to get money. 
 
 2tyhAugust. We met at the Star-Chamber 
 about exchange and release of prisoners. 
 
 Jt/i September. Came Sir John Kiviet, 
 to article with me about his brickwork. 2 
 
 15th. Betwixt the hours of twelve and 
 one, was born my second daughter, who 
 was afterwards christened Elizabeth. 3 
 
 19M. To London, with Mr. Henry 
 Howard, of Norfolk, 4 of whom I obtained 
 the gift of his Arundelian Marbles, those 
 celebrated and famous inscriptions Greek 
 and Latin, gathered with so much cost and 
 industry from Greece, by his illustrious 
 grandfather, the magnificent Earl of Arun- 
 del, my noble friend whilst he lived. Whan 
 I saw these precious monuments miserably 
 neglected, and scattered up and down about 
 the garden, and other parts of Arundel 
 House, and how exceedingly the corrosive 
 air of London impaired them, I procured 
 
 1 Colonel William Legge, 1609-70, Treasurer and 
 Superintendent of the Ordnance, Member for 
 Southampton, and father of George Legge, first 
 Lord Dartmouth. Pepys describes him as "a 
 pleasant man, and that hath seen much of the 
 world, and more of the Court." He was with 
 Charles I. during the rebellion. 
 
 2 See ante, p. 254. 
 
 3 [She died in 1685 (see post, under 27th August, 
 1685).] 4 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 
 him to bestow them on the University of 
 Oxford. This he was pleased to grant 
 me ; and now gave me the key of the 
 gallery, with leave to mark all those 
 stones, urns, altars, etc., and whatever I- 
 found had inscriptions on them, that were 
 not statues. This I did ; and getting 
 them removed and piled together, with 
 those which were incrusted in the garden 
 walls, I sent immediately letters to the 
 Vice-Chancellor of what I had procured, 
 and that if they esteemed it a service to the 
 University (of which I had been a mem- 
 ber), they should take order for their trans- 
 portation. 
 
 This done, 2ist, I accompanied Mr. 
 Howard to his villa at Albury, where I 
 designed for him the plot of his canal and 
 garden, with a crypt * through the hill. 
 
 24M. Returned to London, where I 
 had orders to deliver the possession of 
 Chelsea College (used as my prison during 
 the war with Holland for such as were sent 
 from the fleet to London) to our Society, 
 as a gift of his Majesty our founder. 
 
 8tk October. Came to dine with me Dr. 
 Bathurst, Dean of Wells, 2 President of 
 Trinity College, sent by the Vice- Chancellor 
 of Oxford, in the name both of him and the 
 whole University, to thank me for procuring 
 the inscriptions, and to receive my directions 
 what was to be done to show their gratitude 
 to Mr. Howard. 
 
 nth. I went to see Lord Clarendon, 
 late Lord Chancellor and greatest officer in 
 England, in continual apprehension what 
 the Parliament would determine concerning 
 him. 3 
 
 iyt/i. Came Dr. Barlow, 4 Provost of 
 Queen's College and Protobibliothecus of 
 the Bodleian library, to take order about 
 the transportation of the Marbles. 
 
 2$tk. There were delivered to me two 
 letters from the Vice-Chancellor of Oxford, 
 with the Decree of the Convocation, attested 
 by the Public Notary, ordering four Doctors 
 of Divinity and Law to acknowledge the 
 obligation the University had to me for 
 
 1 [The canal at Albury Park has been drained ; 
 but a part of the crypt, or " Pausilippe," remains 
 (Murray's Surrey, 1898, p. 126). See also post, 
 under 23rd September, 1670 ; and cf. an interesting 
 paper in Blackwood's Magazine for August, 1888, 
 p. 218, entitled " In a Garden of John Evelyn's."] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 243.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 258.] 4 [See ante, p. 175.] 
 
26o 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 L1667 
 
 procuring the Marmora Arundeliana, which 
 was solemnly done by Dr. Barlow, Dr. 
 Jenkins, 1 Judge of the Admiralty, Dr. 
 Lloyd 2 and Obadiah Walker, 3 of University 
 College, who having made a large compli- 
 ment from the University, delivered me 
 the decree fairly written : 
 
 Gesta venerabili domo Convocationis Uni- 
 versitatis Oxon. ; ... 17. 1667. Quo die 
 retulit ad Senatum Academicum Dominus 
 Vicecancellarius, quantum Universitas deberet 
 singulari benevolentias Johannis Evelini Armi- 
 geri, qui pro ea. pietate qua Aim am Matrem 
 prosequitur non solum Suasu et Consilio 
 apud inclytum Heroem Henricum Howard, 
 Ducis Norfolciae hceredem, intercessit, ut 
 Universitati pretiosissimum eruditas antiqui- 
 tatis thesaurum Marmora Arundeliana largi- 
 retur ; sed egregius insuper in ijs colligendis 
 asservandisq ; navavit operam : Qua-prop- 
 ter unanimi suffragio Venerabilis Domus 
 decretum est, ut eidem publicae gratise per 
 delegatos ad Honoratissimum Dominum 
 Henricum Howard propediem mittendos 
 solemniter reddantur. 
 
 Concordant superscripta cum originali colla- 
 tione facta per me Ben. Cooper, 
 Notarium Publicum et Registarium 
 Universitat. Oxon. 
 
 Sir, 
 We intend also a noble inscription, in 
 which also honourable mention shall be made 
 of yourself ; but Mr. Vice-Chancellor com- 
 mands me to tell you that that was not 
 sufficient for your merits ; but, that if your 
 occasions would permit you to come down 
 at the Act (when we intend a dedication of 
 our new Theatre), some other testimony 
 should be given both of your own worth and 
 affection to this your old Mother ; for we 
 are all very sensible this great addition of 
 learning and reputation to the University is 
 due as well to your industrious care for the 
 University, and interest with my Lord 
 Howard, as to his great nobleness and 
 generosity of spirit. 
 
 I am, Sir, your most humble servant, 
 Obadiah Walker, Univ. Coll. 
 
 1 Afterwards Sir Leoline Jenkins, 1623-85, Secre- 
 tary of State. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 162.] 
 
 :{ Subsequently head of that College. See ante, 
 p. 148; and post, under 8th July, 1675. 
 
 The Vice-Chancellor's letter to the same 
 effect were too vainglorious to insert, with 
 divers copies of verses that were also sent 
 me. Their mentioning me in the inscrip- 
 tion I totally declined, when I directed the 
 titles of Mr. Howard, now made Lord, 1 
 upon his Ambassage to Morocco. 
 
 These four doctors, having made me this 
 compliment, desired me to carry and intro- 
 duce them to Mr. Howard, at Arundel- 
 House : which I did, Dr. Barlow (Provost 
 of Queen's) after a short speech, delivering 
 a larger letter of the University's thanks, 
 which was written in Latin, expressing the 
 great sense they had of the honour done 
 them. After this compliment handsomely 
 performed and as nobly received, Mr. 
 Howard accompanied the Doctors to their 
 coach. That evening, I supped with them. 
 
 26th October. My late Lord Chancellor 
 was accused by Mr. Seymour in the House 
 of Commons ; and, in the evening, I re- 
 turned home. Ka***^ 
 
 3 1 st. My birthday — blessed be GrxTtbr 
 all his mercies ! I made the Royal Society 
 a present of the Table of Veins, Arteries, 
 and Nerves, which great curiosity I had 
 caused to be made in Italy, out of the natural 
 human bodies, by a learned physician, and 
 the help of Veslingius (professor at Padua), 
 from whence I brought them in 1646. 2 For 
 this I received the public thanks of the 
 Society ; and they are hanging up in their 
 Repository with an inscription. 
 
 gt/i December. To visit the late Lord 
 Chancellor. 3 I found him in his garden at 
 his new-built palace, sitting in his gout 
 
 1 [He was created Baron Howard of Castle 
 Rising.] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 129. [A description of these tables 
 (which were the work of Veslingius's assistant, 
 Fabritius Bartoletus) was drawn up in 1702 by 
 William Cowper (1666-1709) the surgeon, and read 
 to the Royal Society. It is printed in the Phil. 
 Trans, vol. xxiii. p. 1177 (No. 280), with the title, 
 An Account of several Schemes 0/ Arteries and 
 Veins, dissected from adult Human Bodies, and 
 
 given to the Repository of the Royal Society hy 
 John Evelyn, Esq., F.R.S. (see post, under 21st 
 January, 1702). The Tables are now in the British 
 Museum. A manuscript account of them, drawn 
 up by Evelyn himself for Mr. Cowper, was in the 
 collection of Mr. Alfred H. Huth.] 
 
 3 This entry of the gth December, 1667, is a mis- 
 take. Evelyn could not have visited the "late 
 Lord Chancellor" on that day. Lord Clarendon 
 fled on Saturday, the 29th of November, 1667, and 
 his letter resigning the Chancellorship of the 
 University of Oxford is dated from Calais on the 
 
1 668] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 261 
 
 wheel-chair, and seeing the gates setting up 
 towards the north and the fields. He looked 
 and spake very disconsolately. After some 
 while deploring his condition to me, I took 
 my leave. Next morning, 1 I heard he was 
 gone ; though I am persuaded that, had he 
 gone sooner, though but to Cornbury, and 
 there lain quiet, it would have satisfied the 
 Parliament. That which exasperated them 
 was his presuming to stay and contest the 
 accusation as long as it was possible : and 
 they were on the point of sending him to 
 the Tower. 
 
 loth December. I went to the funeral 
 of Mrs. Heath, 2 wife of my worthy friend 
 and schoolfellow. 
 
 2 1 st. I saw one Carr pilloried at Charing- 
 cross for a libel, which was burnt before 
 him by the hangman. 
 
 1667-8 : 2>th January. I saw deep and 
 prodigious gaming at the Groom -Porter's, 
 vast heaps of gold squandered away in a 
 vain and profuse manner. This I looked 
 on as a horrid vice, and unsuitable in a 
 Christian Court. 
 
 gth. Went to see the revels at the 
 Middle Temple, which is also an old 
 riotous custom, and has relation neither to 
 virtue nor policy. 3 
 
 \oth. To visit Mr. Povey, where were 
 divers great Lords to see his well-contrived 
 cellar, and other elegancies. 4 
 
 24M. We went to stake out ground for 
 Building a college for the Royal Society at 
 Arundel House, but did not finish it, which 
 we shall repent of. 
 
 4th February. I saw the tragedy of 
 Horace (written by the virtuous Mrs. 
 Philips) 5 acted before their Majesties. 
 
 7th of December. That Evelyn's book is not, in 
 every respect, strictly a diary, is shown by this and 
 several similar passages. If the entry of the 18th 
 of September, 1683, is correct, the date of Evelyn's 
 last visit to Lord Clarendon was the 28th of 
 November, 1667. 
 1 [I.e. 29th November.] 2 [See ante, p. 164.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 218.] 
 
 4 [See ante, pp. 225, 230 ; and post, under 29th 
 February, 1676.] 
 
 5 [Mrs. Katherine Philips (the "matchless 
 Orinda "), 1631-64. Her Horace was (like Cotton's) 
 a translation from Pierre Corneille, a fifth act 
 being added by Denham v The Duke of Monmouth 
 spoke the Prologue. Candid Mr. Pepys thought 
 it "a silly tragedy " (19th January, 1669). By 
 '"''virtuous" Evelyn seems only to have intended 
 to accentuate the difference between the deceased 
 author and the ladies of the audience. He wrote 
 
 f Ar 
 
 Betwixt each act a masque and antique 
 dance. 1 The excessive gallantry of the 
 ladies was infinite, those especially on that 
 . . . Castlemaine 2 esteemed at ,£40,000 
 and more, far outshining the Queen. 
 
 I ph. I saw the audience of the Swedish 
 Ambassador Count Donna, in great state 
 in the Banqueting-house. 
 
 yd March. Was launched at Deptford, 
 that goodly vessel, The Charles. I was 
 near his Majesty. She is longer than the 
 Sovereign^ and carries 1 10 brass cannon ; 
 she was built by old Shish, a plain honest 
 carpenter, master-builder of this dock, but 
 one who can give very little account of his 
 art by discourse, and is hardly capable of 
 reading, 3 yet of great ability in his calling. 
 The family have been ship-carpenters in 
 this yard above 300 years. 4 
 
 admiringly of " Orinda" to Pepys in August, and 
 Mrs. Evelyn also praises her to Dr. Bohun. There 
 is an appreciation of her in Gosse's Seventeenth 
 Century Studies, 3rd edition, 1897, pp. 229-258 ; 
 and her poems are reprinted from the edition of 
 1678 in Saintsbury's Caroline Poets, 1905, pp. 485- 
 612.J 
 
 1 [Mrs. Evelyn calls this — "a farce and dance 
 between every act, composed by Lacy, and played 
 by him and Nell [Gwyn], which takes " (Letter to 
 Mr. Tyrill, 10th February, 1669). But from the 
 description of Pepys (19th January), this part of 
 the performance must have been gross and stupid.] 
 
 2 [This, and that on the following page, are 
 Evelyn's first references to Barbara Vilhers (after- 
 wards Palmer), Countess of Castlemaine. She 
 was born in 1641, her father being William Villiers, 
 second Viscount Grandison, killed at Edgehill in 
 1643 '■> an d at this date (1668) she was seven-and- 
 twenty. She had been married, at eighteen, to 
 Roger Palmer, who was made Earl of Castlemaine 
 in 1661. She had known Charles in Holland ; and 
 she was his mistress from the Restoration until she 
 was supplanted by Mile, de Keroualle. She was 
 created Duchess of Cleveland in 1670. She had 
 five children by Charles, — three sons, the Dukes of 
 Southampton, Grafton, and Northumberland, and 
 two daughters. She afterwards married Beau 
 Fielding, and died in 1709. Her picture by Lely 
 (as Minerva!) is in William III.'s State Bedroom 
 at Hampton Court ; it has been drawn in less 
 attractive colours by Gilbert Burnet: — "She was 
 a woman of great beauty, but most enormously 
 vitious and ravenous ; foolish but imperious, very 
 uneasy to the King, and always carrying on 
 intrigues with other men, while yet she pretended 
 she was jealous of him " {History of His Own 
 Time, ij2\, i. 94). There is a privately printed 
 Memoir of her by the late G. Steinman Steinman 
 of Croydon, 1871.] 
 
 3 [Jonas Shish, 1605-80, master shipwright at 
 Deptford and Woolwich dockyards. He has a 
 mural monument in St. Nicholas Church. See 
 post, under 13th May, 1680.] 
 
 4 [Pepys also assisted. "Down by water to 
 Deptford, where the King, Queen, and Court are 
 
262 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 L1668 
 
 \2th March. Went to visit Sir John 
 Cotton, 1 who had me into his library, full 
 of good MSS. Greek and Latin, but most 
 famous for those of the Saxon and English 
 Antiquities, collected by his grandfather. 
 
 2nd April. To the Royal Society, 
 where I subscribed 50,000 bricks, towards 
 building a college. Amongst other liber- 
 tine libels, there was one now printed and 
 thrown about, a bold petition of the poor 
 w s to Lady Castlemaine. 2 
 
 9///. To London, about finishing my 
 grand account of the sick and wounded, 
 and prisoners at war, amounting to above 
 ^34,ooo. 
 
 I heard Sir R. Howard impeach Sir 
 William Penn, 3 in the House of Lords, for 
 breaking bulk, and taking away rich goods 
 out of the East India prizes, formerly taken 
 by Lord Sandwich. 
 
 2%th. To London, about the purchase 
 of Ravensbourne Mills, and land around 
 it, in Upper Deptford, of one Mr. Becher. 
 
 30M. We sealed the deeds in Sir 
 Edward Thurland's 4 chambers in the 
 Inner Temple. I pray God bless it to 
 me, it being a dear pennyworth ; 5 but the 
 passion Sir R. Browne had for it, and that 
 it was contiguous to our other grounds, 
 engaged me ! 
 
 to see launched the new ship "built by Mr. Shish, 
 called the Charles. God send her better luck than 
 the former ! " {Diary, 3rd March, 1668). By the 
 "former," he means the Royal Charles, captured 
 by the Dutch in 1667 (see ante, pp. 256 and 185). A 
 note in the Globe Pepys says that in the Gazette 
 the new ship is called Charles the Second, and 
 was to carry to6 guns.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 38.] 
 
 2 Perhaps Mr. Evelyn knew the author — is 
 Bray's note to this. [''I do hear (says Pepys) that 
 my Lady Castlemaine is horribly vexed at the late 
 libel, — the petition of the poor prostitutes about 
 the town whose houses were pulled down the other 
 day." Pepys thought it more severe than witty, 
 and wonders "how it durst be printed and spread 
 abroad, which shows that the times are loose, and 
 come to a great disregard of the King, or Court, 
 or Government" {Diary, 6th April, 1668). The 
 "petition " was, of course, answered (Globe Pepys, 
 n. under date).] 
 
 3 Sir William Penn, 1621 - 70, father of the 
 Founder of Pennsylvania, whom Evelyn in a 
 subsequent page accuses of having published " a 
 blasphemous book against the Deity of our blessed 
 Lord" {The Sandy Foundation Shaken, 1668). 
 Sir William Penn held the rank of Admiral, and 
 had distinguished himself in the battle with the 
 Dutch. He was Governor of Kinsale. 
 
 4 [Sir Edward Thurland, 1606-83, afterwards 
 Baron of the Exchequer.] 5 [Bargain.] 
 
 iy/i May. Invited by that expert com- 
 mander, Captain Fox, master of the lately 
 built Charles the Second \ now the best 
 vessel of the fleet, designed for the Duke 
 of York, I went to Erith, where we had a 
 great dinner. 
 
 16th. Sir Richard Edgecombe, of Mount 
 Edgecombe, by Plymouth, my relation, 
 came to visit me ; a very virtuous and 
 worthy gentleman. 
 
 I igth June. To a new play with several 
 
 of my relations, The Evening Lover, 1 a 
 
 I foolish plot, and very profane ; it afflicted 
 
 I me to see how the stage was degenerated 
 
 1 and polluted by the licentious times. 
 
 k 2nd July. Sir Samuel Tuke, Bart. ,- 
 
 and the lady he had married this day, 
 
 came and bedded at my house, many friends 
 
 accompanying the bride. 
 
 23rd. At the Royal Society, were pre- 
 sented divers glossapetras, and other natural 
 curiosities, found in digging to build the 
 fort at Sheerness. They were just the 
 same as they bring from Malta, pretending 
 them to be viper's teeth, whereas, in 
 truth, they are of a shark, as we found 
 by comparing them with one in our 
 Repository. 
 
 yd August, Mr. Bramston 3 (son to 
 Judge B.), my old fellow-traveller, now 
 Reader at the Middle Temple, invited me 
 to his feast, which was so very extravagant 
 and great as the like had not been seen at 
 any time. There were the Duke of 
 Ormonde, Privy Seal, Bedford, Belasyse, 4 
 Halifax, and a world more of Earls and 
 Lords. 
 
 14th. His Majesty was pleased to grant 
 me a lease of a slip of ground out of Brick 
 Close, to enlarge my fore-court, for which 
 I now gave him thanks ; then, entering 
 into other discourse, he talked to me of a 
 new varnish for ships, instead of pitch, and 
 
 1 There is no play with this name extant ; and 
 though the latter might be but a second title (for 
 Evelyn frequently mentions only one name of a 
 play that has two), it is next to certain that he here 
 means Dryden's comedy of An Evenings Love, or, 
 The Mock Astrologer, which is indeed sufficiently 
 licentious. It was produced and printed in 1668, 
 when Evelyn appears to have seen it. 
 
 2 See ante, p. 226. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 127. ""In August, 1668, he 
 [Bramston] was called to the Bench, and read 
 there upon y e stat. 30 Jacobi, cap. 4, concerninge 
 recusants " (Sir John Bramston's Autobiography, 
 1845, p. 30).] 4 [See ante, p. 226.] 
 
1 668] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 263 
 
 of the gilding with which his new yacht 
 was beautified. I showed his Majesty the 
 perpetual motion sent to me by Dr. Stokes, 1 
 from Cologne ; and then came in Mon- 
 sieur Colbert, the French Ambassador. 2 
 
 igt/i August. I saw the magnificent entry 
 of the French Ambassador Colbert, re- 
 ceived in the Banqueting-house. I had 
 never seen a richer coach than that which 
 he came in to Whitehall. Standing by his 
 Majesty at dinner in the presence, there 
 was of that rare fruit called the King-pine, 
 growing in Barbadoes and the West Indies ; 
 the first of them I have ever seen. 3 His 
 Majesty having cut it up, was pleased to 
 give me a piece off his own plate to taste 
 of; but, in my opinion, it falls short of 
 those ravishing varieties of deliciousness 
 described in Captain Ligon's History,* 
 and others ; but possibly it might, or 
 certainly was, much impaired in coming so 
 far ; it has yet a grateful acidity, but tastes 
 more like the quince and melon than of 
 any other fruit he mentions. 
 
 2&th. Published my book of The Per- 
 fection of Painting? dedicated to Mr. 
 Howard. 
 
 1 yt/i Septe?nber. I entertained Signor 
 Muccinigo, the Venetian Ambassador, of 
 one of the noblest families of the State, 
 this being the day of making his public 
 entry, setting forth from my house with 
 several gentlemen of Venice and others in 
 a very glorious train. He staid with me 
 till the Earl of Anglesea and Sir Charles 
 Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies) came 
 with the King's barge to carry him to the 
 Tower, where the guns were fired at his 
 landing ; he then entered his Majesty's 
 coach, followed by many others of the 
 nobility. I accompanied him to his house, 
 where there was a most noble supper to 
 all the company, of course, After the 
 extraordinary compliments to me and my 
 
 l [See ante, p. 184.] 2 [See ante, p. 252.] 
 
 3 See ante, as to the Queen-pine, p. 214. 
 
 4 [A True and Exact History of the Island of 
 Barbadoes, 1673.] 
 
 5 ["An Idea of the Perfection of Painting, 
 demonstrated from the Principles of Art, etc. 
 . . . Written in French by Roland Freart, Sieur 
 de Cambray, and rendered English by J. E., 
 Esquire, 1668." There is nothing of Evelyn in it 
 but the Dedication, dated, " Says-Court, July 24, 
 1668," and a preface "To the Reader," both of 
 which are reprinted in the Miscellaneous Writings, 
 1825, pp. 553-62.] 
 
 wife, for the civilities he received at my 
 house, I took leave and returned. He is 
 a very accomplished person. He is since 
 Ambassador at Rome. 
 
 29M. I had much discourse with Signor 
 Pietro Cisij, 1 a Persian gentleman, about 
 the affairs of Turkey, to my great satisfac- 
 tion. I went to see Sir Elias Leighton's 2 
 project of a cart with iron axle-trees. 
 
 Stk November. Being at dinner, my sister 
 Evelyn sent for me to come up to London 
 to my continuing sick brother.* 
 
 14M. To London, invited to the con- 
 secration of that excellent person, the Dean 
 of Ripon, Dr. Wilkins, now made Bishop 
 of Chester; 4 it was at Ely-House, 5 the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr. Cosin, 
 Bishop of Durham, the Bishops of Ely, 
 Salisbury, Rochester, and others officiating. 
 Dr. Tillotson preached. 6 Then, we went 
 to a sumptuous dinner in the hall, where 
 were the Duke of Buckingham, Judges, 
 Secretaries of State, Lord-Keeper, Council, 
 Noblemen, and innumerable other com- 
 pany, who were honourers of this incom- 
 parable man, universally beloved by all 
 who knew him. 
 
 This being the Queen's birthday, great 
 was the gallantry at Whitehall, and the 
 night celebrated with very fine fireworks. 
 
 My poor brother continuing ill, I went 
 not from him till the 17th, when, dining at 
 the Groom -Porter's, I heard Sir Edward 
 Sutton play excellently on the Irish harp ; 
 he performs genteelly, but not approaching 
 my worthy friend, Mr. Clark, 7 a gentleman 
 of Northumberland, who makes it execute 
 lute, viol, and all the harmony an instru- 
 ment is capable of; pity 'tis that it is not 
 more in use ; but, indeed, to play well, 
 takes up the whole man, as Mr. Clark has 
 assured me, who, though a gentleman of 
 
 1 [To whom was owing the inception of the 
 History of the Three Impostors (see post, p. 
 
 26 M 
 
 2 Sir Elisha Leighton, d. 1685. He was one of 
 the secretaries to the Prize Office, and F.R.S. from 
 1663101677. "A mad freaking fellow" — accord- 
 ing to one authority — though a D.C.L. According 
 to another, "for a speech of forty words the 
 wittiest man that ever he knew," and moreover 
 "one of the best companions at a meal in the 
 world." 
 
 3 [Richard Evelyn of Woodcote.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 175.] 
 
 5 See post, under 27th June, 1675. 
 
 6 [Dr. John Tillotson, 1630-94, afterwards Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury.] 7 [See ante, p. 172.] 
 
264 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1669 
 
 quality and parts, was yet brought up to 
 that instrument from five years old, as I 
 remember he told me. 
 
 2$th Nove?nber. I waited on Lord Sand- 
 wich, who presented me with a Sembrador 1 
 he brought out of Spain, showing me his 
 two books of observations made during his 
 embassy and stay at Madrid ; in which 
 were several rare things he promised to 
 impart to me. 
 
 27M. I dined at my Lord Ashley's 
 (since Earl of Shaftesbury), 2 when the 
 match of my niece 3 was proposed for his 
 only son, in which my assistance was 
 desired for my Lord. 
 
 i%th. Dr. Patrick 4 preached at Covent 
 Garden, on Acts xvii. 31, the certainty of 
 Christ's coming to judgment, it being 
 Advent ; a most suitable discourse. 
 
 igtk December. I went to see the old 
 play of Catiline acted, 6 having been now 
 forgotten almost forty years. 
 
 2.0th. I dined with my Lord Cornbury 
 at Clarendon House, now bravely fur- 
 nished, especially with the pictures of most 
 of our ancient and modern wits, poets, 
 philosophers, famous and learned English- 
 men ; which collection of the Chancellor's 
 I much commended, and gave his Lordship 
 a catalogue of more to be added. 6 
 
 311/. I entertained my kind neighbours, 
 according to custom, giving Almighty God 
 
 1 [A new engine for ploughing, equal sowing, 
 and harrowing at once. There is a letter by 
 Evelyn to Lord Brouncker on this in the Miscel- 
 laneons Writings, 1825, pp. 621-22. It is also 
 described by its inventor, Don Joseph Lucatelo, 
 in Phil. Trans. June, 1670, No. 60, vol. v. p. 
 1056.] 
 
 2 [Anthony Ashley Cooper, 1621-83, created Earl 
 of Shaftesbury in 1672.] 
 
 3 Probably the daughter of his brother Richard, 
 of Epsom, who eventually married William Mon- 
 tagu. 
 
 4 [Dr. Simon Patrick, 1626-1707, champion of 
 the Protestant party, and eventually Bishop of 
 Ely.] 
 
 {Catiline, his Conspiracy, by Ben Jonson, a 
 Tragedy, 161 1.] 
 
 6 In a letter to the Lord Chancellor, dated 18th 
 March, 1666-67, Evelyn writes : 
 
 " My Lord, your Lordship inquires of me what 
 pictures might be added to the Assembly of the 
 Learned and Heroic persons of England which 
 your Lordship has already collected ; the design of 
 which I do infinitely more magnify than the most 
 famous heads of foreigners, which do not concern 
 the glory of our country ; and it is in my opinion 
 the most honourable ornament, the most becoming 
 and obliging, which your Lordship can think of to 
 adorn your palace withal ; such, therefore, as seem 
 
 thanks for His gracious mercies to me the 
 past year. 
 
 1668-9: 1st January. Imploring His 
 blessing for the year entering, I went to 
 church, where our Doctor preached on 
 Psalm lxv. 12, apposite to the season, and 
 beginning a new year. 
 
 yd. About this time one of Sir William 
 Penn's sons had published a blasphemous 
 
 to be wanting, I shall range under these three 
 heads : 
 
 The Learned. 
 
 Sir Hen. Saville. 
 Abp. of Armagh. 
 Dr. Harvey. 
 Sir H. Wotton. 
 Sir T. Bodley. 
 G. Buchanan. 
 Jo. Barclay. 
 Ed. Spenser. 
 Wm. Lilly. 
 Wm. Hooker. 
 Dr. Sanderson. 
 Wm. Oughtred. 
 M. Philips. 
 Rog. Bacon. 
 
 Geo. Ripley. 
 Wm. of Occam. 
 Hadrian 4th. 
 Alex. Ales. 
 Ven. Bede. 
 Jo. Duns Scotus. 
 Alcuinus, \ 
 Ridley, V martyrs. 
 Latimer, J 
 Roger Ascham. 
 Sir J. Cheke. 
 
 f Eliz. Joan 
 Ladies < Weston,* 
 
 ^Jane Grey. 
 
 Politicians. 
 
 Sir Fra. Walsingham. 
 Earl of Leicester, 
 Sir W. Raleigh. 
 
 Card. Wolsey. 
 Sir T. Smith. 
 Card. Pole. 
 
 Soldiers. 
 
 Earl of Essex. 
 
 Talbot. 
 
 Sir F. Greville. 
 
 Hor. E. of Oxford. 
 
 Sir Fra. Drake. 
 Sir J. Hawkins. 
 Sir Martin Frobisher. 
 Tho. Cavendish. 
 Sir Ph. Sidney. 
 
 Some of which, though difficult to procure originals 
 of, yet haply copies might be found out upon 
 diligent inquiry. The rest, I think, your Lordship 
 has already in good proportion." 
 
 Writing on the same subject to Pepys, in a long 
 letter dated 12th August, 1689, Evelyn tells him 
 that the Lord Chancellor Clarendon had collected 
 Portraits of very many of our great men ; and he 
 proceeds to put them down, without order or 
 arrangement, as he recollected them. He gives 
 also there a list of Portraits which he recommended 
 to be added, a little different from the list con- 
 tained in the letter above quoted ; and he adds, 
 that "when Lord Clarendon's design of making 
 this collection was known, everybody who had any 
 of the portraits, or could purchase them at any 
 price, strove to make their court by presenting 
 them. By this means he got many excellent pieces 
 of Vandyck, and other originals by Lely and other 
 the best of our modern masters." 
 
 * For an account of Lady Joan Weston, less 
 known than her companion, see George Ballard's 
 Learned Ladies, 1775. There is a very scarce 
 volume of Latin Poems by her, printed at Prague, 
 1606, and Evelyn specially mentions her in his 
 Numismata. # She is often celebrated by the 
 writers of her time. 
 
1 66 9 J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 265 
 
 book against the Deity of our Blessed 
 Lord. 1 
 
 29M Jamtary, I went to see a tall 
 gigantic woman who measured 6 feet 10 
 inches high, at 21 years old, born in the 
 Low Countries. 
 
 13M February. T presented his Majesty 
 with my History of the Four [?] Impostors ; * 2 
 he told me of other like cheats. I gave 
 my book to Lord Arlington, to whom I 
 dedicated it. It was now that he began 
 to tempt me about writing "the Dutch 
 War." s 
 
 i$tk. Saw Mrs. Philips' Horace 4 acted 
 again. 
 
 1 8M. To the Royal Society, when Signor 
 Malpighi, 5 an Italian physician and anato- 
 mist, sent this learned body the incom- 
 parable History of the Silkworm. 
 
 1st March. Dined at Lord Arlington's 
 at Goring House, 6 with the Bishop of 
 Hereford. 
 
 4th. To the Council oi the Royal Society, 
 about disposing my Lord Howard's library, 
 now given to us. 7 
 
 16th. To London, to place Mr. Chris- 
 topher Wase s about my Lord Arlington. 
 
 iSth. I went with Lord Howard of 
 Norfolk, to visit Sir William Ducie at 
 Charlton, 9 where we dined ; the servants 
 made our coachmen so drunk, that they 
 both fell off their boxes on the heath, 
 where we were fain to leave them, and 
 were driven to London by two servants of 
 my Lord's. This barbarous custom of 
 making the masters welcome by intoxicat- 
 ing the servants, had now the second time 
 happened to my coachmen. 10 
 
 My son came finally from Oxford. 
 2nd April. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, 
 where was (with many noblemen) Colonel 
 Titus of the bedchamber, author of the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 262, and cf. Pepys's Diary, 12th 
 February, 1669.] 
 
 2 The History of the Three late Famous Im- 
 postors, viz. Padre Ottomano, Mahomed Bei, and 
 Sabatai Sevi, 1669. Reprinted in Evelyn's Mis- 
 cellaneous Writings, pp. 563-620. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 238.] 4 See ante, p. 261. 
 
 5 Marcellus Malpighi, 1628-94, was eminent for 
 his discoveries respecting the economy of the liver 
 and kidneys, and for his researches in vegetable 
 physiology. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 236. The last Earl of Norwich 
 let Goring House to Lord Arlington in 1666. It 
 was burnt down in September, 1674.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 253.] 8 [See ante, p. 164.] 
 9 [See ante, p. 146.] 10 [See ante, p. 177.] 
 
 famous piece against Cromwell, Killing no 
 Murder? 
 
 I now placed Mr. Wase with Mr. 
 Williamson, Secretary to the Secretary of 
 State, and Clerk of the Papers. 
 
 14//2. I dined with the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury at Lambeth, and saw the 
 library, which was not very considerable. 
 
 1 gth May. At a Council of the Royal 
 Society our grant was finished, in which 
 his Majesty gives us Chelsea College ; 2 
 and some land about it. It was ordered 
 that five should be a quorum for a Council. 
 The Vice-President was then sworn for the 
 first time, and it was proposed how we 
 should receive the Prince of Tuscany, who 
 desired to visit the Society. 
 
 20th. This evening, at 10 o'clock, was 
 born my third daughter, who was baptized 
 on the 25th by the name of Susanna. y 
 
 yd June. Went to take leave of Lord 
 Howard, going Ambassador to Morocco. 4 
 Dined at Lord Arlington's, where were 
 the Earl of Berkshire, Lord Saint John, 
 Sir Robert Howard, and Sir R. Holmes. 5 
 
 10th. Came my Lord Cornbury, Sir 
 William Pulteney, 6 and others to visit me. 
 I went this evening to London, to carry 
 Mr. Pepys to my brother Richard, now 
 exceedingly afflicted with the stone, who 
 had been successfully cut, 7 and carried the 
 stone as big as a tennis-ball to show him, 
 and encourage his resolution to go through 
 the operation. 
 
 2,oth. My wife went a journey of pleasure 
 down the river as far as the sea, with 
 Mrs. Howard 8 and her daughter, 9 the 
 
 1 [Silius Titus, 1623-1704. The apology for 
 tyrannicide called Killing no Murder, May, 1657, 
 is now attributed to Edward Sexby, d. 1658, but 
 Titus may have had a hand in it. It is reprinted 
 in Henry Morley's Famous Pamphlets, and the 
 Harleian Miscellany, iv. 289.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 259. The conversion of Chelsea 
 College into a house for the meetings of the Royal 
 Society was never put into effect.] 
 
 3 [Afterwards Mrs. William Draper. See post, 
 under 19th February, 1693.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 260.] 
 
 5 [Admiral Sir Robert Holmes, 1622-92, Gover- 
 nor in this year of the Isle of Wight.] 
 
 8 Grandfather of the first Earl of Bath. He was 
 a Commissioner of the Privy Seal under William 
 III. 
 
 7 [This is Evelyn's first mention of his brother 
 diarist, whose records end 31st May in this year.] 
 
 8 [Mrs. Howard was the widow of William, 
 fourth son of the first Earl of Berkshire.] 
 
 9 [Anne, afterwards married to Sir Gabriel 
 
266 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Li66g 
 
 Maid of Honour, and others, amongst 
 whom that excellent creature Mrs. Blagge. 1 
 
 Jtk July. I went towards Oxford ; lay 
 at Little Wycombe. 
 
 8t/i. Oxford. 
 
 gt/i. In the morning was celebrated the 
 Encaenia of the New Theatre, so magnifi- 
 cently built by the munificence of Dr. 
 Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, in which was spent ^25,000, as Sir 
 Christopher Wren, the architect (as I 
 remember), told me ; and yet it was never 
 seen by the benefactor, my Lord Arch- 
 bishop having told me that he never did 
 or never would see it. It is, in truth, a 
 fabric comparable to any of this kind of 
 former ages, and doubtless exceeding any 
 of the present, as this University does for 
 colleges, libraries, schools, students, and 
 order, all the Universities in the world. 
 To the theatre is added the famous Shel- 
 donian printing-house. This being at the 
 Act and the first time of opening the 
 Theatre (Acts being formerly kept in St. 
 Mary's Church, which might be thought 
 indecent, that being a place set apart for 
 the immediate worship of God, and was 
 the inducement for building this noble 
 pile), it was now resolved to keep the 
 present Act in it, and celebrate its dedi- 
 cation with the greatest splendour and 
 formality that might be ; and, therefore, 
 drew a world of strangers, and other com- 
 pany, to the University, from all parts of 
 the nation. 
 
 The Vice-Chancellor, Heads of Houses, 
 and Doctors, being seated in magisterial 
 seats, the Vice - Chancellor's chair and 
 desk, Proctors', etc., covered with broca- 
 telle (a kind of brocade) and cloth of gold ; 
 the University Registrar read the founder's 
 grant and gift of it to the University for 
 their scholastic exercises upon these solemn 
 occasions. Then followed Dr. South, 2 the 
 University's orator, in an eloquent speech, 
 which was very long, and not without 
 some malicious and indecent reflections on 
 
 Sylvius, Hofmeister or Chamberlain to the Prince 
 of Orange.] 
 
 1 Margaret Blagge, afterwards Mrs. Godolphin, 
 1652-78, whose life, written by Evelyn, was pub- 
 lished in 1847 under the auspices of Samuel Wilber- 
 force, Bishop of Oxford. It has recently, 1904, 
 been reprinted in the series of "King's Classics" 
 edited by Professor Gollancz. (See post, under 
 9th September, 1678.) 2 [See ante, p. 229.] 
 
 the Royal Society, as underminers of the 
 University ; which was very foolish and 
 untrue, as well as unseasonable. But, to 
 let that pass from an ill-natured man, the 
 rest was in praise of the Archbishop and 
 the ingenious architect. This ended, after 
 loud music from the corridor above, where 
 an organ was placed, there followed divers 
 panegyric speeches, both in prose and 
 verse, interchangeably pronounced by the 
 young students placed in the rostrums, in 
 Pindarics, Eclogues, Heroics, etc. , mingled 
 with excellent music, vocal and instru- 
 mental, to entertain the ladies and the rest 
 of the company. A speech was then 
 made in praise of academical learning. 
 This lasted from eleven in the morning till 
 seven at night, which was concluded with 
 ringing of bells, and universal joy and 
 feasting. 
 
 iQtth. The next day began the more 
 solemn lectures in all the faculties, which 
 were performed in the several schools, 
 where all the Inceptor-Doctors did their 
 exercises, the Professors having first ended 
 their reading. The assembly now re- 
 turned to the Theatre, where the Terrce 
 jilius (the University Buffoon) entertained 
 the auditory with a tedious, abusive, sar- 
 castical rhapsody, most unbecoming the 
 gravity of the University, and that so 
 grossly, that unless it be suppressed, it 
 will be of ill consequence, as I afterwards 
 plainly expressed my sense of it both to 
 the Vice-Chancellor and several Heads of 
 Houses, who were perfectly ashamed of 
 it, and resolved to take care of it in future. 
 The old facetious way of rallying upon the 
 questions was left off, falling wholly upon 
 persons, so that it was rather licentious 
 lying and railing than genuine and noble 
 wit. In my life, I was never witness of 
 so shameful entertainment. After this 
 ribaldry, the Proctors made their speeches. 
 Then began the music Act, vocal and in- 
 strumental, above in the balustrade cor- 
 ridor opposite to the Vice-Chancellor's 
 seat. Then, Dr. Wallis, 1 the mathe- 
 matical Professor, made his oration, and 
 created one Doctor of music according to 
 the usual ceremonies of gown (which was 
 of white damask), cap, ring, kiss, etc. 
 Next followed the disputations of the 
 Inceptor-Doctors in Medicine, the speech 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 213.] 
 
1 669 J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 267 
 
 of their Professor, Dr. Hyde, 1 and so in 
 course their respective creations. Then 
 disputed the Inceptors of Law, the speech 
 of their Professor, and creation. Lastly, 
 Inceptors of Theology : Dr. Comptun 2 
 (brother to the Earl of Northampton) 
 being junior, began with great modesty 
 and applause ; so the rest. After which, 
 Dr. Tillotson, Dr. Sprat, 3 etc., and then 
 Dr. Allestree's speech, 4 the King's Pro- 
 fessor, and their respective creations. Last 
 of all, the Vice-Chancellor, shutting up 
 the whole in a panegyrical oration, cele- 
 brating their benefactor and the rest, 
 apposite to the occasion. 
 
 Thus was the Theatre dedicated by the 
 scholastic exercises in all the Faculties 
 with great solemnity ; and the night, as 
 the former, entertaining the new Doctor's 
 friends in feasting and music. I was in- 
 vited by Dr. Barlow, 5 the worthy land 
 learned Professor of Queen's College. # 
 
 1 ith July. The Act sermon was this 
 forenoon preached by Dr. Hall, 6 in St. 
 Mary's, in an honest practical discourse 
 against Atheism. In the afternoon, the 
 church was so crowded, that not coming 
 early I could not approach to hear. 
 
 \2tk. Monday. Was held the Divinity 
 Act in the Theatre again, when proceeded 
 seventeen Doctors, in all Faculties some. 7 
 
 13M. I dined at the Vice-Chancellor's, 8 
 
 1 Thomas Hyde, D.D., 1636 -1703, Hebrew 
 Reader, Keeper of the Bodleian Library, Prebend 
 of Salisbury Cathedral, Regius Professor of 
 Hebrew, and canon of Christ Church, Oxford ; 
 author of a Latin History of the Ancient Persians 
 and Medes, and one of Walton's coadjutors in the 
 great polyglot Bible. 
 
 2 Henry Compton, 1632-1713, son of Spencer 
 Compton, second Earl of Northampton, slain at 
 the battle of Hopton Heath, commenced his career 
 as a cornet of dragoons, but after a short time 
 abandoned the army for the church, in which he 
 raised himself by his talents to be Bishop of 
 Oxford, and in 1675 was translated to the see of 
 London. He was a zealous Protestant during the 
 reign of James II., and not only was instrumental 
 in bringing over William of Orange to this country, 
 but placed the crown upon his head, on Archbishop 
 Sancroft refusing to assist at the coronation. He 
 wrote several works of a religious character, and 
 a translation of the life of Donna Olympia Malda- 
 china, from the Italian. 
 
 3 Dr. Thomas Sprat, 1635-1713, Bishop of 
 Rochester, the biographer of Cowley, historian of 
 the Royal Society, and author of sundry verses 
 and sermons. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 208.] 5 [See ante, p. 175. 1 
 6 [See ante, p. 199. 1 7 [See ante, p. 266.] 
 8 [Dr. Fell (see p. 213).] 
 
 and spent the afternoon in seeing the 
 rarities of the public libraries, and visit- 
 ing the noble marbles and inscriptions, 
 now inserted in the walls, that compass 
 the area of the Theatre, which were 150 
 of the most ancient and worthy treasures 
 of that kind in the learned world. Now, 
 observing that people approached them 
 too near, some idle persons began to 
 scratch and injure them, I advised that a 
 hedge of holly should be planted at the 
 foot of the wall, to be kept breast-high 
 only to protect them ; which the Vice- 
 Chancellor promised to do the next season. 
 
 14//;. Dr. Fell, 1 Dean of Christ-church, 
 and Vice-Chancellor, with Dr. Allestree, 
 Professor, with beadles and maces before 
 them, came to visit me at my lodging. — I 
 went to visit Lord Howard's sons at Mag- 
 dalen College. 
 
 15M. Having two days before had 
 notice that the University intended me 
 the honour of Doctorship, I was this 
 morning attended by the beadles belong- 
 ing to the Law, who conducted me to the 
 Theatre, where I found the Duke of 
 Ormonde (now Chancellor of the Univer- 
 sity) with the Earl of Chesterfield and Mr. 
 Spencer (brother to the late Earl of Sunder- 
 land). 2 Thence we marched to the Con- 
 vocation-House, a convocation having been 
 called on purpose ; here, being all of us 
 robed in the porch, in scarlet with caps 
 and hoods, we were led in by the Professor 
 of Laws, and presented respectively by 
 name, with a short eulogy, to the Vice- 
 Chancellor, who sate in the chair, with all 
 the Doctors and Heads of Houses and 
 masters about the room, which was ex- 
 ceeding full. Then, began the Public 
 Orator his speech, directed chiefly to the 
 Duke of Ormonde, the Chancellor ; but 
 in which I had my compliment, in course. 
 This ended, we were called up and created 
 Doctors according to the form, and seated 
 by the Vice-Chancellor amongst the Doc- 
 tors, on his right hand ; then the Vice- 
 Chancellor made a short speech, and so, 
 saluting our brother Doctors, the pageantry 
 concluded, and the convocation was dis- 
 solved. So formal a creation of honorary 
 Doctors had seldom been seen, that a 
 
 1 Afterwards Bishop of Oxford, 1675. 
 
 2 [See post, under 8th July, 1675, where Evelyn 
 says he had known Mr. Spencer in France.] 
 
268 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1670 
 
 convocation should be called on purpose, 
 and speeches made by the Orator ; but 
 they could do no less, their Chancellor 
 being to receive, or rather do them, 
 this honour. I should have been made 
 Doctor with the rest at the public Act, 
 but their expectation of their Chancellor 
 made them defer it. I was then led with 
 my brother Doctors to an extraordinary 
 entertainment at Doctor Mews', 1 head of 
 St. John's College, and, after abundance 
 of feasting and compliments, having visited 
 the Vice-Chancellor and other Doctors, 
 and given them thanks for the honour 
 done me, I went towards home the 16th, 
 and got as far as Windsor, and so to my 
 house the next day. 
 
 qth August. I was invited by Sir Henry 
 Peckham to his reading-feast in the Middle 
 Temple, a pompous entertainment, where 
 were the Archbishop of Canterbury, all 
 the great Earls and Lords, etc. I had 
 much discourse with my Lord Winchelsea, 2 
 a prodigious talker ; and the Venetian 
 Ambassador. 
 
 1 Jth. To London, spending almost the 
 entire day in surveying what progress was 
 made in rebuilding the ruinous City, which 
 now began a little to revive after its sad 
 calamity. 
 
 2.0th. I saw the splendid audience of the 
 Danish Ambassador in the Banqueting- 
 house at Whitehall. 
 
 23rd. I went to visit my most excellent 
 and worthy neighbour, the Lord Bishop of 
 Rochester, 3 at Bromley, which he was now 
 repairing, after the dilapidations of the late 
 Rebellion. 
 
 2nd September. I was this day very ill 
 of a pain in my limbs, which continued 
 most of this week, and was increased by a 
 visit I made to my old acquaintance, the 
 Earl of Norwich, at his house in Epping 
 Forest, where are many good pictures put 
 into the wainscot of the rooms, which Mr. 
 Baker, 4 his Lordship's predecessor there, 
 
 1 [Peter Mews, 1619 - 1706 ; President of St. 
 John's College, Oxford, 1667-73.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 204.] 
 
 3 [John Dolben, 1625-86; Bishop of Rochester, 
 1666-83. The palace, afterwards improved by 
 Atterbury and visited by Walpole, no longer exists, 
 and the house which has taken its place is not in 
 the diocese of Rochester. ] 
 
 4 [The Earl of Norwich (George Goring) had 
 married Mr. Baker's widow (see post, under 16th 
 March, 1683).] 
 
 brought out of Spain ; especially the His- 
 tory of Joseph, a picture of the pious and 
 learned Picus Mirandola, and an incom- 
 parable one of old Brueghel. The gardens 
 were well understood, I mean the potager. 
 I returned late in the evening, ferrying 
 over the water at Greenwich. 
 
 26M. To church, to give God thanks 
 for my recovery. 
 
 3rd October. I received the Blessed 
 Eucharist, to my unspeakable joy. 
 
 2\st. To the Royal Society, meeting for 
 the first time after a long recess, during 
 vacation, according to custom ; where was 
 read a description of the prodigious erup- 
 tion of Mount Etna ; and our English 
 itinerant presented an account of his 
 autumnal peregrination about England, 
 for which we hired him, bringing dried 
 fowls, fish, plants, animals, etc. 
 
 26th. My dear brother continued ex- 
 tremely full of pain, the Lord be gracious 
 to him ! 
 
 yd November. This being the day of 
 meeting for the poor, we dined neigh- 
 bourly together. 
 
 25M. I heard an excellent discourse by 
 Dr. Patrick, 1 on the Resurrection ; and 
 afterwards visited the Countess of Kent, 
 my kinswoman. 
 
 8th December. To London, upon the 
 second edition of my Sylva? which I pre- 
 sented to the Royal Society. 
 
 1669 -70: 6th February. Dr. John 
 Breton, Master of Emmanuel College, in 
 Cambridge (uncle to our vicar), 3 preached 
 on John i. 27 ; " whose shoe-latchet I am 
 not worthy to unloose, "etc. , describing the 
 various fashions of shoes, or sandals, worn 
 by the Jews, and other nations : of the orna- 
 ments of the feet : how great persons had 
 servants that took them off when they came 
 to their houses, and bare them after them : 
 by which pointing the dignity of our 
 Saviour, when such a person as St. John 
 Baptist acknowledged his unworthiness 
 even of that mean office. The lawfulness, 
 decentness, and necessity, of subordinate 
 degrees and ranks of men and servants, as 
 well in the Church as State : against the 
 late levellers, and others of that dangerous 
 rabble, who would have all alike. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 264.] 2 [See ante, p. 224.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Robert Breton of Deptford (see ante, p. 
 216).] 
 
I670J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JUHJN EVELYN 
 
 269 
 
 yd March. Finding my brother [Richard] 
 in such exceeding torture, and that he now 
 began to fall into convulsion- fits, I solemnly- 
 set the next day apart to beg of God to 
 mitigate his sufferings, and prosper the 
 only means which yet remained for his 
 recovery, he being not only much wasted, 
 but exceedingly and all along averse from 
 being cut (for the stone) ; but, when he at 
 last consented, and it came to the opera- 
 tion, and all things prepared, his spirit 
 and resolution failed. 
 
 6th March. Dr. Patrick l preached in 
 Covent Garden church. I participated of 
 the Blessed Sacrament, recommending to 
 God the deplorable condition of my dear 
 brother, who was almost in the last agonies 
 of death. I watched late with him this 
 night. It. pleased God to deliver him out 
 of this miserable life, towards five o'clock 
 this Monday morning, to my unspeakable 
 grief. He was a brother whom I most 
 dearly loved, for his many virtues ; but 
 two years younger than myself, a sober, 
 prudent, worthy gentleman. He had 
 married a great fortune, and left one only 
 daughter, 2 and a noble seat at Woodcote, 
 near Epsom. His body was opened, and 
 a stone taken out of his bladder, not much 
 bigger than a nutmeg. I returned home 
 on the 8th, full of sadness, and to bemoan 
 my loss. 
 
 20th. A stranger preached at the Savoy 
 French church ; the Liturgy of the Church 
 of England being now used altogether, as 
 translated into French by Dr. Durel. 3 
 
 21st. We all accompanied the corpse of 
 my dear brother to Epsom church, where 
 he was decently interred in the chapel 
 belonging to Woodcote House. A great 
 number of friends and gentlemen of the 
 country attended, about twenty coaches 
 and six horses, and innumerable people. 
 
 22nd. I went to Westminster, where in 
 the House of Lords I saw his Majesty sit 
 on his throne, 4 but without his robes, all 
 
 1 [Vide supra, 25th November.] 
 
 2 [Ann (not Mary) Evelyn, afterwards Mrs. 
 William Montagu (see post, under 29th June, 
 1670).] 
 
 3 John Durel, Dean of Windsor, 1625-83. He 
 translated the Liturgy into the French and Latin 
 languages, and was the author of a Vindication 
 of the Church of England against Schismatics, 
 1669. 
 
 -* [Marvell, in a letter of 14th April, makes the 
 date 26th March. Charles (see next note) was 
 
 the peers sitting with their hats on ; the 
 business of the day being the divorce of 
 my Lord Roos. Such an occasion and 
 sight had not been seen in England since 
 the time of Henry VIII. 1 
 
 5M May. To London, concerning the 
 office of Latin Secretary to his Majesty, a 
 place of more honour and dignity than 
 profit, the reversion of which he had pro- 
 mised me. 
 
 21st. Came to visit me Mr. Henry 
 Saville, 2 and Sir Charles Scarburgh. 3 
 
 26th. Receiving a letter from Mr. Philip 
 Howard, Lord Almoner to the Queen, 4 
 that Monsieur Evelin, 6 first physician to 
 Madame (who was now come to Dover to 
 visit the King her brother), 6 was come to 
 town, greatly desirous to see me ; but his 
 
 interested in the Roos divorce bill. Marvell adds 
 — " The King has ever since continued his session 
 among them [the Lords], and says it is better than 
 going to a play " (Birrell's Marvell, 1905, p. 149).] 
 
 1 Evelyn subjoins in a note: "When there was 
 a project, 1669, for getting a divorce for the King, 
 to facilitate it there was brought into the House of 
 Lords a bill for dissolving the marriage of Lord 
 Roos, on account of adultery, and to give him 
 leave to marry again. This Bill, after great 
 debates, passed by the plurality of only two votes, 
 and that by the great industry of the Lord's 
 friends, as well as the Duke's enemies, who carried 
 it on chiefly in hopes it might be a precedent and 
 inducement for the King to enter the more easily 
 into their late proposals : nor were they a little 
 encouraged therein, when they saw the King 
 countenance and drive on the Bill in Lord Roos's 
 favour. Of eighteen Bishops that were in the 
 House, only two voted for the bill, of which one 
 voted through age, and one was reputed Socinian." 
 — The two Bishops favourable to the bill were Dr. 
 Cosin, Bishop of Durham, and Dr. Wilkins, Bishop 
 of Chester. 
 
 2 [Henry Savile, 1642-87 ; Vice - Chamberlain, 
 1680, and Envoy to Paris, 1679-82.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 170.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 130.] 
 
 5 [William Yvelin, or Evelin, Physician and 
 Confessor to Henry IV., Louis XIII., and 
 Louis XIV. (B right's Dorking, 1884, 303). He 
 attended Madame in her last illness, at St. Cloud.] 
 
 6 [The Princes Henrietta (Duchess of Orleans), 
 who had come to England on the 25th May, to 
 negotiate the secret (and scandalous) Treaty of 
 Dover — the " Traiti de Madame " — which was 
 signed on the 1st June. Marvell notes her in- 
 tended adveitt. Madam, our King's sister, 
 during the King of France's progress in Flanders, 
 is to come as far as Canterbury. There will 
 doubtless be family counsels then " (Letter of 14th 
 April in Birrell's Marvell, 1905, p. 150). Other 
 forecasters attributed her visit to other causes. 
 Lord Halifax {Character 0/ a Trimmer, Mis- 
 cellanies, 1700, p. 74) laid it inter alia to the 
 Persian costume (ante, p. 251): — "It was thought 
 that one of the Instructions Madam brought along 
 
270 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1670 
 
 stay so short, that he could not come to 
 me, I went with my brother to meet 
 him at the Tower, where he was seeing 
 the magazines and other curiosities, having 
 never before been in England : we renewed 
 our alliance and friendship, 1 with much 
 regret on both sides that, he being to return 
 towards Dover that evening, we could not 
 enjoy one another any longer. How this 
 French family, Ivelin, of Evelin, Nor- 
 mandy, a very ancient and noble house, is 
 grafted into our pedigree, see in the collec- 
 tion brought from Paris, 1650. 
 
 16th June. I went with some friends to 
 the Bear Garden, 2 where was cock-fighting, 
 dog-fighting, bear and bull baiting, it being 
 a famous day for all these butcherly sports, 
 or rather barbarous cruelties. The bulls 
 did exceeding well, but the Irish wolf-dog 
 exceeded, which was a tall grey-hound, a 
 stately creature indeed, who beat a cruel 
 mastiff. One of the bulls tossed a dog full 
 into a lady's lap as she sate in one of the 
 boxes at a considerable height from the 
 ' arena. Two poor dogs were killed, and 
 so all ended with the ape on horseback, 
 and I most heartily weary of the rude and 
 dirty pastime, which I had not seen, I 
 think, in twenty years before. 
 
 i8t/i. Dined at Goring House, 3 whither 
 my Lord Arlington carried me from White- 
 hall with the Marquis of Worcester ; 4 
 there, we found Lord Sandwich, Viscount 
 Stafford, 5 the Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 and others. After dinner, my Lord com- 
 municated to me his Majesty's desire that 
 I would engage to write the History of our 
 late War with the Hollanders, which I had 
 
 with her, was to laugh us out of these Vests, 
 which she performed so effectually, that in a 
 moment, like so many Footmen who had quitted 
 their Masters Livery, we all took it again, and 
 returned to our old Service."] 
 
 1 [Evelyn must have already met his French 
 kinsman at Paris.] 
 
 2 [In the Bankside, Southwark, near to the old 
 Palace of the Bishops of Winchester, and the 
 prison called the Clink. Pepys also saw a dog 
 tossed into the boxes (14th August, 1665). " It is 
 a very rude and nasty pleasure," he says. But he 
 went again.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 236.] 
 
 4 [Henry Somerset, third Marquis of Worcester, 
 16*29-1700, afterwards first Duke of Beaufort.] 
 
 5 William Howard, first Viscount Stafford, 
 1614-80, fifth son of Thomas, Earl of Arundel. In 
 1678, he was accused of complicity with the Popish 
 Plot, and upon trial by his Peers in Westminster 
 Hall, was found guilty and beheaded. 
 
 hitherto declined ; this I found was ill 
 taken, and that I should disoblige his 
 Majesty, who had made choice of me to 
 do him this service, and, if I would under- 
 take it, I should have all the assistance 
 the Secretary's office and others could give 
 me, with other encouragements, which I 
 could not decently refuse. 1 
 
 Lord Stafford rose from table, in some 
 disorder, because there were roses stuck 
 about the fruit when the dessert was set on 
 the table ; 2 such an antipathy, it seems, 
 he had to them as once Lady St. Leger 
 also had, and to that degree that, as Sir 
 Kenelm Digby tells us, laying but a rose 
 upon her cheek when she was asleep, it 
 raised a blister ; but Sir Kenelm was a 
 teller of strange things. 
 
 24th. Came the Earl of Huntingdon 
 and Countess, 3 with the Lord Sherard, to 
 visit us. 
 
 29th. To London, in order to my niece's 
 marriage, Mary, 4 daughter to my late 
 brother Richard, of Woodcote, with the 
 eldest son of Mr. Attorney Montagu, 5 
 which was celebrated at Southampton 
 House chapel, after which a magnificent 
 entertainment, feast, and dancing, dinner 
 and supper, in the great room there ; but 
 the bride was bedded at my sister's lodging, 
 in Drury-Lane. 
 
 6th July. Came to visit me Mr. Stan- 
 hope, Gentleman-Usher to Her Majesty, 
 and uncle to the Earl of Chesterfield, a 
 very fine man, with my Lady Hutcheson. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 265 ; and^ost, pp. 273, 275.] 
 
 2 [Montaigne, in the twenty-fifth chapter of his 
 first Book, refers to some kindred antipathies. 
 Germanicus (he says) "could not abide to see a 
 cock, or heare his crowing" — in which latter 
 peculiarity he must have resembled Carlyle. " I 
 have seene some to startle at the smell of an apple, 
 more than at the shot of a peece" (Florio's trans- 
 lation). Several other instances are given in 
 Kirby's Wonderful Museum, 1805, iii. pp. 122-23. 
 The Due d'Epernon, an admiral of France, fainted 
 at the sight of a leveret ; Cesar d'Albret was taken 
 ill whenever he saw a sucking-pig at table ; La 
 Mothe le Vayer (who delighted in thunder) was 
 unable to endure musical instruments of any kind ; 
 Hobbes of Malmesbury could not bear to be left in 
 the dark ; Tycho Brahe was grievously affected 
 by hares or foxes ; and so many people object to 
 cheese that a Groningen philosopher, Martin 
 Schock, composed a treatise De Aversione Casei. 
 (Cf. also Pepys's Diary, 12th July, 1666).] 
 
 3 [Theophilus Hastings, seventh Earl of Hun- 
 tingdon, 1650-1701.] 4 [See ante, p. 264 «.] 
 
 5 [Sir William Montagu, 1619-1706 ; Chief 
 Baron of the Exchequer, 1676.] 
 
1670] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 271 
 
 7 
 
 19th July. I accompanied my worthy 
 friend, that excellent man Sir Robert 
 Murray, 1 with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the 
 Mint, to see the latter's seat and estate at 
 Burrow Green in Cambridgeshire, he desir- 
 ing our advice for placing a new house, 
 which he was resolved to build. 2 We set 
 out in a coach and six horses with him and 
 his lady, dined about midway at one Mr. 
 Turner's, where we found a very noble 
 dinner, venison, music, and a circle of 
 country ladies and their gallants. After 
 dinner, we proceeded, and came to Burrow 
 Green that night. This had been the 
 ancient seat of the Chekes {whose daughter 
 Mr. Slingsby married), formerly tutor to 
 King Henry [? Edward] VI. * The old 
 house large and ample, and built for 
 ancient hospitality, ready to fall down 
 with age, placed in a dirty hole, a stiff 
 clay, no water, next an adjoining church- 
 yard, and with other inconveniences. We 
 pitched on a spot of rising ground, adorned 
 with venerable woods, a dry and sweet 
 prospect east and west, and fit for a park, 
 but no running water ; at a mile distance 
 from the old house. 
 
 2.0th. We went to dine at Lord Ailing- 
 ton's, 3 who had newly built a house of 
 great cost, I believe little less than 
 £20, 000. 4 His architect was Mr. Pratt. 
 It is seated in a park, with a sweet pros- 
 pect and stately avenue ; but water still 
 defective ; the house has also its infirmi- 
 ties. Went back to Mr. Slingsby's. 
 
 22nd. We rode out to see the great 
 mere, or level, of recovered fen land, 
 not far off. In the .way, we met Lord 
 Arlington going to his house in Suffolk, 
 accompanied with Count Ogniati, the 
 Spanish minister, and Sir Bernard Gas- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 213.] 
 
 2 It is probable that Slingsby did not build, and 
 that after his misfortunes (see post, under 12th 
 January, 1688) it was sold. Lysons tells us, in his 
 Magna Britannia, 1810, ii. 96, that all which re- 
 mained of an old brick mansion was converted into 
 a farm-house. 
 
 3 Since Constable of the Tower. — Evelyns 
 Note. 
 
 4 At Horseheath. The Allingtons were settled 
 here before 1429 : Evelyn's friend, William, who 
 built the house above referred to, had been created 
 an Irish Peer in 1646 by the title of Lord Allington. 
 Lysons says the house cost ,£70,000, and with the 
 estate was sold, about 1687, to Mr. John Bromley 
 for ,£42,000, who expended ,£30,000 more on the 
 
 
 coigne ; l he was very importunate with 
 me to go with him to Euston, being but 
 fifteen miles distant ; but in regard of my 
 company, I could not. So, passing through 
 Newmarket, we alighted to see his Majesty's 
 house there, now new-building ; 2 the arches 
 of the cellars beneath are well turned by l^ 
 Mr. Samuel, the architect, the rest mean Jf 
 enough, and hardly fit for a hunting-house. " 
 Many of the rooms above had the chimneys 
 in the angles and corners, a mode now 
 introduced by his Majesty, which I do 
 at no hand approve of. I predict it will 
 spoil many noble houses and rooms, if 
 followed. It does only well in very small 
 and trifling rooms, but takes from the state 
 of greater. Besides, this house is placed 
 in a dirty street, without any court or 
 avenue, like a common one, whereas it 
 might, and ought to have been built at 
 either end of the town, upon the very 
 carpet where the sports are celebrated ; 
 but, it being the purchase of an old 
 wretched house of my Lord Thomond's, 3 
 his Majesty was persuaded to set it 
 on that foundation, the most improper 
 imaginable for a house of sport and 
 pleasure. -/ 
 
 We went to see the stables and fine J' 
 horses, of which many were here kept at'ar 
 a vast expense, with all the art and tender- 
 ness imaginable. 
 
 Being arrived at some meres, we found 
 Lord Wotton 4 and Sir John Kiviet 5 about 
 their draining-engines, having, it seems, 
 undertaken to do wonders on a vast piece 
 of marsh-ground they had hired of Sir 
 Thomas Chicheley (Master of the Ord- 
 nance). 6 They much pleased themselves 
 with the hopes of a rich harvest of 
 
 building. His grandson was created Lord Mont- 
 ford, in 1741. In 1776, the second Lord Montford 
 sold the estate, the house being sold, in 1777, for 
 the materials, to be pulled down. See Lysons, 
 Magna Britannia, 1810, ii. pp. 216, 217. 
 
 1 [Sir Bernard Gascoigne, 1614-87, afterwards 
 Envoy to Vienna.] 
 
 2 [In High Street. It occupied the site of the 
 lodge erected by James I. ; and was sold pursuant 
 to 57 Geo. III. cap. 97. The part which remains 
 belongs to the Duke of Rutland ; where the rest 
 stood, there is now an Independent Chapel (Murray's 
 Suffolk, etc., 1892, p. 411).] 
 
 * Sold by the Crown in 1816. 
 
 4 [Charles Henry Kirkhove n, first Baron Wotton 
 of Wotton, and Earl of Bellomont, d. 1683. See 
 Post, under 2nd June, 1676.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 253.] 6 See ante, p. 245. 
 
272 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1670 
 
 hemp and cole-seed, which was the crop 
 expected. 
 
 Here we visited the engines and mills 
 both for wind and water, draining it 
 through two rivers, or grafts, cut by hand, 
 and capable of carrying considerable barges, 
 which went thwart one the other, dis- 
 charging the water into the sea. Such this 
 spot had been the former winter ; it was 
 astonishing to see it now dry, and so rich 
 that weeds grew on the banks, almost 
 as high as a man and horse. Here, my 
 Lord and his partner had built two or 
 three rooms, with Flanders white bricks, 
 very hard. One of the great engines was 
 in the kitchen, where I saw the fish swim 
 up, even to the very chimney -hearth, by a 
 small cut through the room, and running 
 within a foot of the very fire. 
 
 Having, after dinner, rid about that vast 
 level, pestered with heat and swarms of 
 gnats, we returned over Newmarket Heath, 
 the way being mostly a sweet turf and 
 down, like Salisbury Plain, the jockeys 
 breathing their fine barbs and racers, and 
 giving them their heats. 
 
 23rd July. We returned from Burrow 
 Green to London, staying some time at 
 Audley End, 1 to see that fine palace. It 
 is indeed a cheerful piece of Gothic build- 
 ing, or rather antico moderno, but placed 
 in an obscure bottom. The cellars and 
 galleries are very stately. It has a river 
 by it, a pretty avenue of limes, and in a 
 park. 
 
 This is in Saffron Walden parish, famous 
 for that useful plant, with which all the 
 country is covered. 
 
 Dining at Bishop Stortford, we came 
 late to London. 
 
 %th August. There was sent me by a 
 , 'neighbour a servant-maid, who, in the last 
 y month, as she was sitting before her 
 ^j mistress at work, felt a stroke on her arm 
 a little above the wrist for some height, 
 the smart of which, as if struck by another 
 hand, caused her to hold her arm awhile 
 till somewhat mitigated ; but it put her 
 into a kind of convulsion, or rather hys- 
 teric fit. A gentleman, coming casually 
 in, looking on her arm, found that part 
 powdered with red crosses, set in most 
 exact and wonderful order, neither swelled 
 nor depressed, about this shape, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 184.] 
 
 x x 
 
 XXX 
 
 X x 
 
 X 
 
 not seeming to be any way made by artifice, 
 of a reddish colour, not so red as blood, the 
 skin over them smooth, the rest of the arm 
 livid and of a mortified hue, with certain 
 prints as it were of the stroke of fingers. 
 This had happened three several times in 
 July, at about ten days' interval, the crosses 
 beginning to wear out, but the successive 
 ones set in other different, yet uniform 
 qrder. The maid seemed very modest, 
 and came from London to Deptford with 
 her mistress, to avoid the discourse and 
 importunity of curious people. She made 
 no gain by it, pretended no religious 
 fancies ; but seemed to be a plain, ordinary, 
 silent, working wench, somewhat fat, short, 
 and high-coloured. She told me divers 
 divines and physicians had seen her, but 
 were unsatisfied ; that she had taken some 
 remedies against her fits, but .they did her 
 no good ; she had never before had any 
 fits ; once since, she seemed in her sleep 
 to hear one say to her that she should 
 tamper no more with them, nor trouble 
 herself with anything that happened, but 
 put her trust in the merits of Christ only. 
 
 This is the substance of what she told 
 me, and what I saw and curiously examined. 
 I was formerly acquainted with the im- 
 postorious nuns of Loudun, 1 in France, 
 which made much noise amongst the 
 Papists ; I therefore thought this worth the 
 notice. I remember Monsieur Monconys 2 
 
 1 [Between 1632 and 1637, a number of Ursuline 
 Nuns at Loudun, in the Department of Vienne, 
 France, were said to be possessed ; and they 
 affirmed that they had been bewitched by Urbain 
 Grandier, curi of St. Peter in Loudun, who had 
 sought, but failed to obtain, the office of Director 
 to the convent. Grandier was tried, convicted of 
 magic and other crimes, and burned alive in 1634. 
 His trial and death occupy the initial chapters of 
 Alfred de Vigny's once famous novel Cinq Mars, 
 1826. The possession of the nuns continued for 
 some time afterwards, since, from the Memoirs of 
 Sir George Courthop, the Jesuits were still exorcis- 
 ing the devils in 1637 {Camden Miscellany, 1907, 
 vol. xi. pp. 106-8).] 
 
 2 [Balthazar de Monconys, 1611-65, whose travels 
 were published in three vols., 1665-6. He visited 
 the supirieure of the Ursulines, 8th May, 1645. 
 He did not believe in the marks ; and, indeed, 
 claims to have removed part of a letter with his 
 nail (Voiages, Pt. i. pp. 8, 9, as quoted in Bayle).! 
 
I670J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 273 
 
 (that curious traveller and a Roman Catholic) 
 was by no means satisfied with the stigmata 
 of those nuns, because they were so shy of 
 letting him scrape the letters, which were 
 Jesus, Maria, Joseph (as I think), observing 
 they began to scale off with it, whereas this 
 poor wench was willing to submit to any 
 trial ; so that I profess I know not what to 
 think of it, nor dare I pronounce it any- 
 thing supernatural. 
 
 26th August. At Windsor I supped 
 with the Duke of Monmouth ; and, the 
 next day, invited by Lord Arlington, dined 
 with the same Duke, and divers Lords. 
 After dinner, my Lord and I had a con- 
 ference of more than an hour alone in his 
 bedchamber, to engage me in the History. 
 I showed him something that I had drawn 
 up, to his great satisfaction, and he desired 
 me to show it to the Treasurer. 
 
 28t/i. One of the Canons preached ; 
 then followed the offering of the Knights of 
 the Order, according to custom ; first the 
 the poor Knights, in procession, then, the 
 Canons in their formalities, the Dean and 
 Chancellor, then his Maj esty ( the Sovereign) , 
 the Duke of York, Prince Rupert ; and, 
 lastly, the Earl of Oxford, being all the 
 Knights that were then at Court. 
 
 I dined with the Treasurer, and con- 
 sulted with him what pieces I was to add ; 
 in the afternoon, the King took me aside 
 into the balcony over the terrace, extremely 
 pleased with what had been told him I had 
 begun, in order to his commands, and 
 enjoining me to proceed vigorously in it. 
 He told me he had ordered the Secretaries 
 of State to give me all necessary assistance 
 of papers and particulars relating to it, and 
 enjoining me to make it a little keen, for 
 that the Hollanders had very unhandsomely 
 abused him in their pictures, books, and 
 libels. 
 
 Windsor was now going to be repaired, 
 being exceedingly ragged and ruinous. 
 Prince Rupert, the Constable, had begun 
 to trim up the keep or high round Tower, 
 and handsomely adorned his hall with 
 furniture of arms, which was very singular, 
 by so disposing the pikes, muskets, pistols, 
 bandoleers, holsters, drums, back, breast, 
 and headpieces, as was very extraordinary. 
 Thus, those huge steep stairs ascending to 
 it had the walls invested with this martial 
 furniture, all new and bright, so disposing 
 
 the bandoleers, holsters, and drums, as to 
 represent festoons, and that without any 
 confusion, trophy-like. From the hall we 
 went into his bedchamber, and ample 
 rooms hung with tapestry, curious and 
 effeminate pictures, so extremely different 
 from the other, which presented nothing 
 but war and horror. 
 
 The King passed most of his time in 
 hunting the stag, and walking in the park, 
 which he was now planting with rows of 
 trees. 
 
 \y.h September. To visit Sir Richard 
 Lashford, my kinsman, and Mr. Charles 
 Howard, 1 at his extraordinary garden, at 
 Deepdene. 
 
 i$th. I went to visit Mr. Arthur 
 Onslow, at West Clandon, a pretty dry 
 seat on the Downs, 2 where we dined in 
 his great room. 
 
 ljt/i. To visit Mr. Hussey, 3 who, being 
 near Wotton, lives in a sweet valley, 
 deliciously watered. 
 
 2,yd. To Albury, to see how that 
 garden proceeded, which I found exactly 
 done to the design and plot I had made, 
 with the crypta through the mountain in 
 the park, thirty perches in length. Such 
 a Pausilippe 4 is nowhere in England. 
 The canal was now digging, and the 
 vineyard planted. 
 
 14//1 October. I spent the whole after- 
 noon in private with the Treasurer, who 
 put into my hands those secret pieces and 
 transactions concerning the Dutch war, 
 and particularly the expedition of Bergen, 
 in which he had himself the chief part, 
 and gave me instructions, till the King 
 arriving from Newmarket, we both went 
 up into his bedchamber. 
 
 21st. Dined with the Treasurer ; and, 
 after dinner, we were shut up together. I 
 received other [further] advices, and ten 
 paper-books of despatches and treaties ; 
 to return which again I gave a note under 
 my hand to Mr. Joseph Williamson, Master 
 of the Paper-office. 
 
 31st. I was this morning fifty years of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 222.] 
 
 2 [Clandon Park, West Clandon. The present 
 house was built by Giacomo Leoni in 1731, and the 
 park laid out by " Capability " Brown.] 
 
 3 [Peter Hussey, at Sutton in Shere (see post, 
 under 30th August, 1681.] 
 
 4 See ante, p. 259. "Pausilippe" is a word 
 adapted by Evelyn for a subterranean passage 
 from the famous Grotta di Posilipo near Naples. 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 C1671 
 
 age ; the Lord teach me to number my 
 days so as to apply them to his glory ! 
 Amen. 
 
 4M November. Saw the Prince of 
 Orange, 1 newly come to see the King, his 
 uncle ; he has a manly, courageous, wise 
 countenance, resembling his mother 2 and 
 the Duke of Gloucester, both deceased. 
 
 I now also saw that famous beauty, but 
 in my opinion of a childish, simple, and 
 baby face, Mademoiselle Keroualle, 3 lately 
 Maid of Honour to Madame, and now to 
 be so to the Queen. 
 
 23rd. Dined with the Earl of Arlington, 
 where was the Venetian Ambassador, of 
 whom I now took solemn leave, now on his 
 return. There were also Lords Howard, 
 Wharton, Windsor, and divers other great 
 persons. 
 
 24//;. I dined with the Treasurer, 4 
 where was the Earl of Rochester, a very 
 profane wit. 5 
 
 15M December. It was the thickest and 
 darkest fog on the Thames that was ever 
 known in ^the memory of man, and I 
 happened to be in the very midst of it. 
 I supped with Monsieur Zulestein, late 
 Governor to the late Prince of Orange. 
 
 1 670- 1 : \oth January. Mr. Bohun, my 
 son's tutor, had been five years in my 
 house, and now Bachelor of Laws, and 
 Fellow of New College, went from me to 
 Oxford to reside there, having well and 
 faithfully performed his charge. 6 
 
 i&th. This day, I first acquainted his 
 Majesty with that incomparable young 
 man, Gibbons, 7 whom I had lately met 
 with in an obscure place by mere accident, 
 
 1 [William, Prince of Orange, afterwards William. 
 III.] 
 
 2 [Mary, daughter of Charles I. and Henrietta 
 Maria.] 
 
 3 Louise-Reneede Penancoet de Keroualle, 1649- 
 1734. She had been of the suite of Madame, and 
 came over again to entice Charles into coalition 
 with Louis XIV. — a design that succeeded but 
 too well. She became the King's mistress, was 
 made Duchess of Portsmouth and Aubigny, and 
 was his favourite- till his death. [There is a 
 beautiful portrait of her by Pierre Mignard, painted 
 in 1682, in the National Portrait Gallery.] 
 
 4 [Sir Thomas Clifford (see ante, p. 253).] 
 
 5 [John Wilmot, second Earl of Rochester, 1647- 
 80, whose life was afterwards written by Burnet in 
 1680.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 239.] 
 
 7 [The famous wood-carver, Grinling Gibbons, 
 1648-1720. He was born in Rotterdam. He 
 usually worked in lime-wood ; but he also used 
 
 as I was walking near a poor solitary 
 thatched house, in a field in our parish, 
 near Sayes Court. I found him shut in ; 
 but looking in at the window, I perceived 
 him carving that large cartoon, or crucifix, 
 of Tintoretto, a copy of which I had 
 myself brought from Venice, where the 
 original painting remains. I asked if I 
 might enter ; he opened the door civilly 
 to me, and I saw him about such a work 
 as for the curiosity of handling, drawing, 
 and studious exactness, I never had before 
 seen in all my travels. I questioned him 
 why he worked in such an obscure and 
 lonesome place ; he told me it was that 
 he might apply himself to his profession 
 without interruption, and wondered not a 
 little how I found him out. I asked if he 
 was unwilling to be made known to some 
 great man, for that I believed it might 
 turn to his profit ; he answered, he was 
 yet but a beginner, but would not be sorry 
 to sell off that piece ; on demanding the 
 price, he said ^100. In good earnest, the 
 very frame was worth the money, there 
 being nothing in nature so tender and 
 delicate as the flowers and festoons about 
 it, and yet the work was very strong ; in 
 the piece were more than one hundred 
 figures of men, etc. I found he was 
 likewise musical, and very civil, sober, 
 and discreet in his discourse. There was 
 only an old woman in the house. So, 
 desiring leave to visit him sometimes, I 
 went away. 
 
 Of this young artist, together with my 
 manner of finding him out, I acquainted 
 the King, and begged that he would give 
 me leave to bring him and his work to 
 Whitehall, for that I would adventure my 
 reputation with his Majesty that he had 
 never seen anything approach it, and that 
 he would be exceedingly pleased, and 
 employ him. The King said he would 
 himself go see him. This was the first 
 
 box, oak, and pear. There are samples of his 
 work in St. Paul's ; at Cambridge (Trinity College 
 Library) ; at Chatsworth, Petworth, and at many 
 seats of the nobility. He was also a sculptor, 
 witness the pedestal of the statue of Charles II. in 
 the courlyard at Windsor (see post, under 24th 
 July, 1680), and the bronze statue of James II., 
 long in Whitehall Gardens, and now at the back of 
 the Admiralty. From 1678 until his death he 
 lived in Bow Street, Covent Garden. There is a 
 portrait of him by Kneller, dated 1690, engraved 
 in mezzotint by John Smith.] 
 
1671] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 275 
 
 notice his Majesty ever had of Mr. 
 Gibbons. 
 
 20th January. The King came to see 
 me in the Queen's withdrawing-room from 
 the circle of ladies, to talk with me as to 
 what advance I had made in the Dutch 
 History. 1 I dined with the Treasurer, 
 and afterwards we went to the Secretary's 
 Office, where we conferred about divers 
 particulars. 
 
 21st. I was directed to go to Sir 
 George Downing, 2 who having been a 
 public minister in Holland, at the begin- 
 ning of the war, was to give me light in 
 some material passages. 
 
 This year the weather was so wet, 
 stormy, and unseasonable, as had not been 
 known in many years. 
 
 gth February. I saw the great ball danced 
 by the^ Queen and distinguished ladies at 
 Whitehall Theatre. Next day, was acted 
 there the famous play, called The Siege of 
 Granada, two days acted successively ; 
 there were indeed very glorious scenes and 
 perspectives, the work of Mr. Streater, who 
 well understands it. 3 
 
 19th. This day dined with me Mr. 
 Surveyor, Dr. Christopher Wren, and Mr. 
 Pepys, Clerk of the Acts, two extraordinary, 
 ingenious, and knowing persons, and other 
 friends. I carried them to see the piece of 
 carving which I had recommended to the 
 King. 
 
 25/72. Came to visit me one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of Scotland for the Union. 
 
 28th. The Treasurer acquainted me that 
 his Majesty was graciously pleased to 
 nominate me one of the Council of Foreign 
 Plantations y and give me a salary of ^500 
 per annum, to encourage me. 
 
 29/^. I went to thank the Treasurer, 
 who was my great friend, and loved me ; 
 I dined with him and much company, 
 and went thence to my Lord Arlington, 
 Secretary of State, in whose favour I like- 
 wise was upon many occasions, though I 
 cultivated neither of their friendships by 
 any mean submissions. I kissed his 
 Majesty's hand, on his making me one of 
 that new-established Council. 
 
 1st March. I caused Mr. Gibbons to 
 bring to Whitehall his excellent piece of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 273.] 2 [See ante, p. 246.] 
 
 S Evelyn here refers to Dryden's Conquest of 
 Granada. As to Streater, see ante, p. 230. 
 
 carving, where being come, I advertised 
 his Majesty, who asked me where it was ; 
 I told him in Sir Richard Browne's (my 
 father-in-law) chamber, and that if it 
 pleased his Majesty to appoint whither it 
 should be brought, being large and though 
 of wood heavy, I would take care for it. 
 " No," says the King, " show me the way, 
 I'll go to Sir Richard's chamber," which 
 he immediately did, walking along the 
 entries after me ; as far as the Ewry, 1 till 
 he came up into the room, where I also lay. 
 No sooner was he entered and cast his eye 
 on the work, but he was astonished at 
 the curiosity of it ; and having considered 
 it a long time, and discoursed with Mr. 
 Gibbons, whom I brought to kiss his hand, 
 he commanded it should be immediately 
 carried to the Queen's side to show her. 
 It was carried up into her bedchamber, 
 where she and the King looked on and 
 admired it again ; the King, being called 
 away, left us with the Queen, believing she 
 would have bought it, it being a crucifix ; 
 but, when his Majesty was gone, a French 
 peddling woman, one Madame de Boord,- 
 who used to bring petticoats and fans, and 
 baubles, out of France to the ladies, began 
 to find fault with several things in the work, 
 which she understood no more than an ass, 
 or a monkey, so as in a kind of indignation, 
 I caused the person who brought it to carry 
 it back to the chamber, finding the Queen 
 so much governed by an ignorant French- 
 woman, and this incomparable artist had 
 his labour only for his pains^ which not a 
 little displeased me ; and he was fain to 
 send it down to his cottage again ; he not 
 long after sold it for ^80, though well 
 worth ;£ioo, without the frame, to Sir 
 George Viner. 
 
 His Majesty's Surveyor, Mr. Wren, 
 faithfully promised me to employ him. 3 I 
 having also bespoke his Majesty for his 
 work at Windsor, which my friend, • Mr. 
 May, the architect there, was going to alter, 
 and repair universally ; for, on the next 
 day, I had a fair opportunity of talking to' 
 his Majesty about it, in the lobby next the 
 
 1 [Where were kept the ewers for the use of the 
 Royal Household.] 
 
 2 [M. Henri Fomeron, Louise de KSrvuallc, 
 1886, p. 28, calls this fatuous person " Mine. 
 Deborde."] 
 
 a The carving of the Choir Stalls, etc., in St. 
 Paul's Cathedral was executed by Gibbons. 
 
276 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1671 
 
 Queen's side, where I presented him with 
 some sheets of my history. I thence 
 walked with him through St. James's Park 
 to the garden, where I both saw and heard 
 a very familiar discourse between . . . , l 
 and Mrs. Nelly,' 2 as they called an im- 
 pudent comedian, she looking out of her 
 garden on a terrace at the top of the wall, 
 and . . . .* standing on the green walk 
 under it. I was heartily sorry at this 
 scene. Thence the King walked to the 
 Duchess of Cleveland, 3 another lady of 
 pleasure, and curse of our nation. 
 
 $th March. I dined at Greenwich, to 
 take leave of Sir Thomas Lynch, going 
 Governor of Jamaica. 4 
 
 loth. To London, about passing my 
 patent as one of the standing Council for 
 Plantations, a considerable honour, the 
 others in the Council being chiefly noble- 
 men and officers of state. 
 
 2nd April. To Sir Thomas Clifford, the 
 Treasurer, 5 to condole with him on the loss 
 of his eldest son, who died at Florence. 
 
 2nd May. The French King, being now 
 with a great army of 28,000 men about 
 Dunkirk, divers of the grandees of that 
 Court, and a vast number of gentlemen 
 and cadets, in fantastical habits, came 
 flocking over to see our Court, and compli- 
 ment his Majesty. I was present, when 
 they first were conducted into the Queen's 
 withdra wing-room, where saluted their 
 Majesties the Dukes of Guise, 6 Longue- 
 ville, and many others of the first rank. 
 
 io//z. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, 7 in 
 
 1 [Charles II.] 
 
 2 [Eleanor, or Nell Gwyn, 1650-87. She had, 
 says her biographer, Peter Cunningham, from 
 1671 to her death, a house "in Pall Mall [south 
 side], with a garden with a mound at the end, 
 overlooking the Mall."] 
 
 3 [At Cleveland House, St. James's.] 
 
 4 [Sir Thomas Lynch, d. 1684. He had been 
 Provost Marshal in 1661 ; Member of Council, 
 1663 ; President, 1664 ; and was made Governor 
 and knighted in 1670.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 253.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 51.] 
 
 7 This entry of 10th May, 167 1 — says Forster — 
 so far as it relates to Blood, and the stealing of the 
 crown, etc., is a mistake. Colonel Thomas Blood, 
 i6i8-3o, stole the crown on the 9th of May, 1671 — 
 the very day before ; and the not long before " 
 of Evelyn, and the circumstance of his being 
 "pardoned," which Evelyn also mentions, can 
 hardly be said to relate to only the day before. 
 This is another of those passages to which frequent 
 reference has been made, and of which an explana- 
 tion is suggested in the Preface to this volume. 
 
 company with Monsieur De Grammont 1 
 and several French noblemen, and one 
 Blood, that impudent bold fellow who had 
 not long before attempted to steal the 
 imperial crown itself out of the Tower, 
 pretending only curiosity of seeing the 
 regalia there, when stabbing the keeper, 
 though not mortally, he boldly went away 
 with it through all the guards, taken only 
 by the accident of his horse falling down. 
 How he came to be pardoned, and even 
 received into favour, not only after this, 
 but several other exploits almost as daring 
 both in Ireland and here, I could never 
 come to understand. Some believed he 
 became a spy of several parties, being well 
 with the Sectaries and Enthusiasts, and did 
 his Majesty services that way, which none 
 alive could do so well as he ; but it was 
 certainly the boldest attempt, so the only 
 treason of this sort that was ever pardoned. 
 This man had not only a daring but a 
 villainous unmerciful look, a false counte- 
 nance, but very well-spoken and dangerously 
 insinuating. 
 
 1 1th. I went to Eltham to sit as one of 
 the Commissioners about the subsidy now 
 given by Parliament to his Majesty. 
 
 i'jth. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's [Sir 
 Thomas Clifford] with the Earl of Ar- 
 lington, Carlingford, 2 Lord Arundel of 
 Wardour, 3 Lord Almoner to the Queen, a 
 French Count and two abbots, with several 
 more of French nobility ; and now by 
 something I had lately observed of Mr. 
 Treasurer's conversation on occasion, I 
 suspected him a little warping to Rome. 
 
 2^th. I dined at a feast made for me 
 and my wife by the Trinity Company, for 
 our passing a fine of the lancl which Sir 
 R. Browne, my wife's father, freely gave 
 to found and build their college, or Alms- 
 houses on, at Deptford, 4 it being my wife's 
 
 1 [This was Philibert, Comte de Grammont (more 
 properly Gramont), the hero of Anthony Hamilton's 
 vivacious Memoirs. He died in 1707.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 257.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 202.] 
 
 4 [The Deptford Almshouses erected by the 
 Trinity House on the site given by Sir Richard 
 Browne have long been pulled down, and a system 
 of pensions has been established in JLu of them. 
 But there is still a memento of Evelyn's father-in- 
 law at the Mile End establishment of the Corpora- 
 tion in" the shape of a scutcheon carved with 
 Browne's arms. This was transferred from Dept- 
 ford ; and there is .1 sketch of it at p. 121 of 
 Barrett's Trinity House of Deptford Strond, 1893.] 
 
1671] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 277 
 
 after her father's decease. It was a good 
 and charitable work and gift, but would 
 have been better bestowed on the poor of 
 that parish, than on the seamen's widows, 
 the Trinity Company being very rich, and 
 the rest of the poor of the parish exceed- 
 ingly indigent. 
 
 26th May. The Earl of Bristol's house 
 in Queen's Street [Lincoln's Inn Fields] was 
 taken for the Commissioners of Trade and 
 Plantations, 1 and furnished with rich 
 hangings of the King's. It consisted 
 of seven rooms on a floor, with a long 
 gallery, gardens, etc. This day we met ; 
 the Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Lauder- 
 dale, Lord Colepeper, Sir George Carteret, 
 Vice- Chamberlain, and myself, had the 
 oaths given us by the Earl of Sandwich, 
 our President. It was to advise and 
 counsel his Majesty, to the best of our 
 abilities, for the well - governing of his 
 Foreign Plantations, etc., the form very 
 little differing from that given to the Privy 
 Council. We then took our places at the 
 Board in the Council - Chamber, a very 
 large room furnished with atlases, maps, 
 • charts, globes, etc. Then came the Lord 
 Keeper, Sir Orlando Bridgeman, 2 Earl of 
 Arlington, Secretary of State, Lord Ashley, 
 Mr. Treasurer, Sir John Trevor, 3 the other 
 Secretary, Sir John Duncomb, Lord Al- 
 lington, 4 Mr. Grey, son to the Lord Grey, 
 Mr. Henry Brouncker, 5 Sir Humphrey 
 Winch, 6 Sir John Finch, 7 Mr. Waller, 8 
 and Colonel Titus, of the Bedchamber, 9 
 with Mr. Slingsby, Secretary to the Council, 
 and two Clerks of the Council, who had all 
 been sworn some days before. Being all 
 set, our Patent was read, and then the 
 additional Patent, in which was recited 
 this new establishment ; then was de- 
 livered to each a copy of the Patent, and 
 of instructions : after which, we proceeded 
 to business. 
 
 The first thing we did was, to settle the 
 form of a circular letter to the Governors 
 of all his Majesty's Plantations and Terri- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 275.] 
 
 2 [Sir Orlando Bridgeman, 1606-74. He was 
 Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, 1667-72.] 
 
 3 [Sir John Trevor, 1626-72 ; knighted in 1668.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 271.] 
 
 5 [Lord Brouncker 's brother Henry Brouncker, 
 d. 1688, afterwards third Viscount Brouncker.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 234.] 7 [See ante, p. 233.] 
 8 [See ante, p. 130.] 9 [See ante, p. 265.] 
 
 tories in the AVest Indies and Islands 
 thereof, to give them notice to whom they 
 should apply themselves on all occasions, 
 and to render us an account of their pres- 
 ent state and government ; but, what we 
 most insisted on was, to know the con- 
 dition of New England, which appearing 
 to be very independent as to their regard 
 to Old England, or his Majesty, rich and 
 strong as they now were, there were great 
 debates in what style to write to them ; for 
 the condition of that Colony was such, 
 that they were able to contest with all 
 other Plantations about them, and there 
 was fear of their breaking from all depend- 
 ence on this nation ; his Majesty, there- 
 fore, commended this affair more expressly. 
 We, therefore, thought fit, in the first 
 place, to acquaint ourselves as well as we 
 could of the state of that place, by some 
 whom we heard of that were newly come 
 from thence, and to be informed of their 
 present posture and condition ; some of 
 our Council were for sending them a 
 menacing letter, which those who better 
 understood the peevish and touchy humour 
 of that Colony, were utterly against. 
 
 A letter was then read from Sir Thomas 
 Modyford, Governor of Jamaica ; x and 
 then the Council brake up. 
 
 Having brought an action against one 
 Cocke, for money which he had received 
 for me, it had been referred to an arbitra- 
 tion by the recommendation of that excel- 
 lent good man, the Chief-Justice Hale ; 2 
 but, this not succeeding, I went to advise 
 with that famous lawyer, Mr. Jones, of 
 Gray's Inn, and, 27th May, had a trial 
 before Lord Chief - Justice Hale; and, 
 after the lawyers had wrangled sufficiently, 
 it was referred to a new arbitration. This 
 was the very first suit at law that ever I 
 had with any creature, and oh, that it 
 might be the last ! 
 
 1st June. An installation at Windsor. 
 
 6th. I went to Council, where was 
 
 1 [Sir Thomas Modyford, 1620-79, had been made 
 Governor of Jamaica in 1664. He had been sent 
 home under arrest this year upon an accusation of 
 encouraging piracy.] 
 
 2 Sir Matthew Hale, 160^-76, famous as one of 
 the justices'of the bench in Cromwell's time. After 
 the Restoration, he became Chief Baron of the 
 Exchequer; then Chief ' Justice of the^ King's 
 Bench. [Burnet published a life of Hale in 1682 ; 
 but there is an exhaustive biography by Sir John 
 Bickerton Williams, 1835.] 
 
278 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1671 
 
 produced a most exact and ample informa- 
 tion of the state of Jamaica, and of the 
 best expedients as to New England, on 
 which there was a long debate ; but at 
 length it was concluded that, if any, it 
 should be only a conciliating paper at first, 
 or civil letter, till we had better informa- 
 tion of the present face of things, since we 
 understood they were a people almost upon 
 the very brink of renouncing any depend- 
 ence on the Crown. 
 
 19M June. To a splendid dinner at 
 the great room in Deptford Trinity 
 House, 1 Sir Thomas Allen' 2 chosen 
 Master, and succeeding the Earl of 
 Craven. 
 
 20th. To carry Colonel Middleton 3 to 
 Whitehall, to my Lord Sandwich, our 
 President, for some information which he 
 was able to give of the state of the Colony 
 in New England. 
 
 2.1st. To Council again, when one 
 Colonel Cartwright, a Nottinghamshire 
 man (formerly in commission with Colonel 
 Nicholls), gave us a considerable relation 
 of that country ; on which the Council 
 concluded that in the first place a letter 
 of amnesty should be despatched. 
 
 24M. Constantine Huyghens, Seigneur 
 de Zulichem, 4 that excellent learned man, 
 poet, and musician, now near eighty years 
 of age, a vigorous brisk man, came to 
 take leave of me before his return into 
 Holland with the Prince, whose Secretary 
 he was. 
 
 26M. To Council, where Lord Arling- 
 ton acquainted us, that it was his Majesty's 
 proposal we snould, every one of us, con- 
 tribute £20 towards building a Council- 
 chamber and conveniences somewhere in 
 Whitehall, that his Majesty might come 
 and sit amongst us, and hear our debates ; 
 the money we laid out to be reimbursed 
 out of the contingent monies already set 
 apart for us, viz. ^"iooo yearly. To this 
 we unanimously consented. There came 
 an uncertain bruit from Barbadoes of some 
 disorder there. On my return home I 
 stepped in at the theatre to see the new 
 
 1 [Now pulled down.] 
 
 2 [Captain Sir Thomas Allen (see ante, p. 237).] 
 
 3 Colonel Thomas Middleton, a coadjutor of 
 Pepys at the Navy Board, and by him styled "a 
 most honest and understanding man." [He had 
 been made a Commissioner in 1664.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 231.] 
 
 machines for the intended scenes, which 
 were indeed very costly and magnificent. 
 
 20//2 June. To Council, where were 
 letters from Sir Thomas Modyford, 
 of the expedition and exploit of Colonel 
 Morgan, 1 and others of Jamaica, on the 
 Spanish Continent at Panama. 
 
 %th July. To Council, where we drew 
 up and agreed to a letter to be sent to New 
 England, and made some proposal to Mr. 
 Gorges, for his interest in a plantation 
 there. 
 
 2^th. To Council. Mr. Surveyor 
 brought us a plot for the building of our 
 Council-chamber, to be erected at the end 
 of the Privy-garden, in Whitehall. 
 
 yd August. A full appearance at the 
 Council. The matter in debate was, 
 whether we should send a deputy to New 
 England, requiring them of the Massa- 
 chusetts to restore such to their limits and 
 respective possessions, as had petitioned 
 the Council ; this to be the open commis- 
 sion only ; but, in truth, with secret 
 instructions to inform us of the condition 
 of those Colonies, and whether they were 
 of such power, as to be able to resist his 
 Majesty and declare for themselves as 
 independent of the Crown, which we were 
 told, and which of late years made them 
 refractory. Colonel Middleton, 2 being 
 called in, assured us they might be curbed 
 by a few of his Majesty's first-rate frigates, 
 to spoil their trade with the islands ; but, 
 though my Lord President was not satisfied, 
 the rest were, and we did resolve to advise 
 his Majesty to send Commissioners with a 
 formal commission for adjusting boundaries, 
 etc., with some other instructions. 
 
 \yh. To Council. The letters of Sir 
 Thomas Modyford were read, giving re- 
 lation of the exploit at Panama, which was 
 very brave ; they took, burnt, and pillaged 
 the town of vast treasures, but the best of 
 the booty had been shipped off, and lay at 
 anchor in the South Sea, so that, after our 
 men had ranged the country sixty miles 
 about, they went back to Nombre de 
 Dios, and embarked for Jamaica. Such 
 an action had not been done since the 
 famous Drake. 
 
 1 [See infra, August 19, 2^6. post, p. 296. Colonel 
 Morgan (after Sir Henry), 1635-88, came to Eng- 
 land in 1672 to answer for this magnificent buc- 
 caneering exploit, and was made Lieut. -Governor 
 of Jamaica.] 2 [See above, June 20.] 
 
1671] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 279 
 
 I dined at the? Hamburgh Resident's, 
 and, after dinner, went to the christening 
 of Sir Samuel Tuke's son, Charles, at 
 Somerset - House, by a Popish priest, 
 and many odd ceremonies. The god- 
 fathers were the King, and Lord Arundel 
 of Wardour, 1 and godmother, the Countess 
 of Huntingdon. 2 
 
 29th August. To London, with some 
 more papers of my progress in the Dutch 
 War, delivered to the Treasurer. 
 
 1 s£ September. Dined with the Treasurer, 
 in company with my Lord Arlington, Hali- 
 fax, and Sir Thomas Strickland ; 3 and, 
 next day, went home, being the anniversary 
 of the late dreadful fire of London. 
 
 13M. This night fell a dreadful tempest. 
 
 1 $tk. In the afternoon at Council, where 
 letters were read from Sir Charles Wheeler, 4 
 concerning his resigning his government of 
 St. Christopher's. 
 
 2 1 st. I dined in the City, at the fraternity 
 feast in Ironmongers' Hall, 5 where the four 
 stewards chose their successors for the next 
 year, with a solemn procession, garlands 
 about their heads, and music playing before 
 them ; so, coming up to the upper tables 
 where the gentlemen sat, they drank to the 
 new stewards ; and so we parted. 
 
 22nd. I dined at the Treasurer's, where 
 I had discourse with Sir Henry Jones (now 
 come over to raise a regiment of horse), 
 concerning the French conquests in Lor- 
 raine ; he told me the king sold all things 
 to the soldiers, even to a handful of hay. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now nominated 
 Ambassador to Spain. 6 
 
 After dinner, the Treasurer carried me 
 to Lincoln's Inn, to one of the Parliament 
 Clerks, to obtain of him, that I might carry 
 home and peruse, some of the Journals, 
 which were accordingly delivered to me 
 to examine about the late Dutch war. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 202.] a TSee ante, p. 270.] 
 
 3 Sir Thomas Strickland, d. 1694. Made a 
 baronet by Charles I. on the field at Edgehill, 
 where he commanded a regiment of infantry. 
 After the Restoration he was member for the 
 County of Westmoreland, and Privy Purse to 
 Charles II. He was subsequently one of James II.'s 
 Privy Council, and followed him into France. 
 
 4 [Stepost, under 14th November, 1671.] 
 
 5 One of the grand court-days of that opulent 
 Company, which is one of twelve. 
 
 6 [Robert Spencer, second Earl of Sunderland, 
 1640-1702 ; ambassador to Spain 1671, and Paris, 
 1672.] 
 
 Returning home, I went on shore to see 
 the Custom-House, now newly rebuilt since 
 the dreadful conflagration. 1 
 
 gt/i and lot/i October. I went, after 
 evening-service, to London, in order to a 
 journey of refreshment with Mr. Treasurer, 
 to Newmarket, 2 where the King then was, 
 in his coach with six brave horses, which we 
 changed thrice, first, at Bishop Stortford, 
 and last, at Chesterford ; so, by night, we 
 got to Newmarket, where Mr. Henry 
 Jermyn 3 (nephew to the Earl of St. 
 Albans) lodged me very civilly. We pro- 
 ceeded immediately to Court, the King 
 and all the English gallants being there at 
 their autumnal sports. 4 Supped at the 
 Lord Chamberlain's ; and, the next day, 
 after dinner, I was on the heath, where I 
 saw the great match run between Wood- 
 cock and Flatfoot, belonging to the King, 
 and to Mr. Eliot, of the Bedchamber, many 
 thousands being spectators ; a more signal 
 race had not been run for many years. 
 
 This over, I went that night with Mr. 
 Treasurer to Euston, 5 a palace of Lord 
 Arlington's, where we found Monsieur 
 Colbert (the French Ambassador), and the 
 famous new French Maid of Honour, 
 Mademoiselle Keroualle, 6 now coming to 
 be in great favour with the King. Here 
 
 1 This new edifice was again destroyed by fire in 
 1718, and, again rebuilt, was a third time destroyed 
 by fire in February 1814. 
 
 2 ["Your father is gone a little journey with 
 Mr. Treasurer, to Newmarket, and to my Lord 
 Arlington's upon his earnest invitation " (Mrs. 
 Evelyn to her son, October 9, 1671).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 255.] 
 
 4 [Reresby, eleven years later, describes Charles 
 at Newmarket, and his habits probably varied very 
 little. "The King was so much pleased with the 
 country, and so great a lover of the diversions which 
 that place did afford, that he let himself down from 
 Majesty to the very degree of a country gentleman. 
 He mixed himself amongst the crowd, allowed 
 every man to speak to him that pleased ; went a- 
 hawking in the mornings, to cock-matches in the 
 afternoons (if there were no horse-races), and to 
 plays in the evenings, acted in a barn, and by 
 very ordinary Bartlemewfair comedians " (Memoirs, 
 1875, pp. 244-45).] 
 
 5 [Euston Hall, Thetford, W. Suffolk, now be- 
 longs to the Duke of Grafton, to whose ancestor, 
 Henry Fitzroy, first Duke, it passed with Lord 
 Arlington's daughter Isabella (see post, under 1st 
 August, 1672). Verrio's first frescoes in England 
 were done for this house. Walpole calls it large 
 and bad " and bifilt in a hole ! Bloomfield, who 
 was born in a neighbouring village, has celebrated 
 " Euston's watered vale, and sloping plains" 
 (Murray's Suffolk, etc., 1892, p. 149)]. 
 
 6 See ante, p. 274. 
 
280 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1671 
 
 was also the Countess of Sunderland, 1 and 
 several lords and ladies, who lodged in 
 the house. 
 
 During my stay here with Lord Arling- 
 ton, near a fortnight, his Majesty came 
 almost every second day with the Duke, 
 who commonly returned to Newmarket, 
 but the King often lay here, during which 
 time I had twice the honour to sit at 
 dinner with him, with all freedom. It 
 was universally reported that the fair 
 
 lady 2 was bedded one of these nights, 
 
 and the stocking flung, after the manner of 
 a married bride ; I acknowledge she was 
 for the most part in her undress all day, 
 and that there was fondness and toying 
 with that young wanton ; nay, it was said, 
 I was at the former ceremony ; but it is 
 utterly false ; I neither saw nor heard of 
 any such thing whilst I was there, though 
 I had been in her chamber, and all over 
 that apartment late enough, and was 
 myself observing all passages with much 
 curiosity. However, it was with confi- 
 dence believed she was first made a Miss, 
 as they call these unhappy creatures, with 
 solemnity at this time. 3 
 
 On Sunday, a young Cambridge Divine 
 preached an excellent sermon in the chapel, 
 the King and the Duke of York being 
 present. 
 
 i6tA October. Came all the great men 
 from Newmarket, and other parts both of 
 Suffolk and Norfolk, to make their court, 
 the whole house filled from one end to the 
 other with lords, ladies, and gallants ; 
 there was such a furnished table, as I had 
 seldom seen, nor anything more splendid 
 and free, so that for fifteen days there were 
 entertained at least 200 people, and half 
 as many horses, besides servants and 
 guards, at infinite expense. 
 
 In the morning, we went hunting and 
 hawking ; in the afternoon, till almost 
 morning, to cards and dice, yet I must say 
 without noise, swearing, quarrel, or con- 
 fusion of any sort. I, who was no 
 
 1 [Ann Spencer, daughter of Digby, Earl of 
 Bristol.] 
 
 2 [Louise de Keroualle.] 
 
 3 [This seems to have been the case ; and Louis 
 XIV. ordered his Ambassador, Colbert, to con- 
 gratulate Mile, de Keroualle (Forneron, Louise de 
 Ke'roualle, 1886, p. 54). Cf. also Mme. de Sevigne 
 to her daughter, Mme. de Grignan, March 30, 
 1672.] 
 
 gamester, had often discourse with the 
 French Ambassador, Colbert, and went 
 sometimes abroad on horseback with the 
 ladies to take the air, and now and then to 
 hunting ; thus idly passing the time, but 
 not without more often recess to my pretty 
 apartment, where I was quite out of all 
 this hurry, and had leisure when I would, 
 to converse with books, for there is no man 
 more hospitably easy to be withal than my 
 Lord Arlington, of whose particular friend- 
 ship and kindness I had ever a more than 
 ordinary share. His house is a very noble 
 pile, consisting of four pavilions after the 
 French, beside a body of a large house, 
 and, though not built altogether, but 
 formed of additions to an old house (pur- 
 chased by his Lordship of one Sir T. 
 Rookwood), yet with a vast expense made 
 not only capable and room some, but very 
 magnificent and commodious, as well 
 within as without, nor less splendidly 
 furnished. The staircase is very elegant, 
 the garden handsome, the canal beautiful, 
 but the soil dry, barren, and miserably 
 sandy, which flies in drifts as the wind sits. 
 Here my Lord was pleased to advise with 
 me about ordering his plantations of firs, 
 elms, limes, etc., up his park, and in all 
 other places and avenues. I persuaded 
 him to bring his park so near as to com- 
 prehend his house within it ; which he 
 resolved upon, it being now near a mile to 
 it. The water furnishing the fountains, is 
 raised by a pretty engine, or very slight 
 plain wheels, which likewise serve to grind 
 his corn, from a small cascade of the canal, 
 the invention of Sir Samuel Morland. 1 In 
 my Lord's house, and especially above the 
 staircase, in the great hall and some of the 
 chambers and rooms of state, are paintings 
 in fresco by Signor Verrio, being the first 
 work which he did in England. 
 
 \*]th. My Lord Henry Howard coming 
 this night to visit my Lord Chamberlain, 
 and staying a day, would needs have 
 me go with him to Norwich, promising 
 to convey me back, after a day or two; 
 this, as I could not refuse, I was not hard 
 to be persuaded to, having a desire to see 
 that famous scholar and physician, Dr. 
 T. Browne, author of the Religio Medici 
 and Vulgar Errors, now lately knighted. 2 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 257.] 
 
 2 Sir Thomas Browne, 1605-82. [He was 
 
I67U 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 281 
 
 Thither, then, went my Lord and I alone, 
 in his flying chariot with six horses ; and, 
 by the way, discoursing with me of several 
 of his concerns, he acquainted me of his 
 going to marry his eldest son to one of the 
 King's natural daughters, by the Duchess 
 of Cleveland ; by which he reckoned he 
 should come into mighty favour. He also 
 told me that, though he kept that idle 
 
 creature, Mrs. B j 1 and would leave 
 
 ^200 a year to the son he had by her, he 
 would never marry her, and that the King 
 himself had cautioned him against it. All 
 the world knows how he kept his promise,- 
 and I was sorry at heart to hear what now 
 he confessed to me ; and that a person and 
 a family which I so much honoured for the 
 sake of that noble and illustrious friend of 
 mine, his grandfather, should dishonour 
 and pollute them both with those base and 
 vicious courses he of late had taken since 
 the death of Sir Samuel Tuke, 3 and that 
 of his own virtuous lady (my Lady Anne 
 Somerset, sister to the Marquis) ; 4 who, 
 whilst they lived, preserved this gentleman 
 by their example and advice from those 
 many extravagances that impaired both his 
 fortune and reputation. 
 
 Being come to the Ducal Palace, 5 my 
 Lord made very much of me ; but I had 
 little rest, so exceedingly desirous he was 
 to show me the contrivance he had made 
 for the entertainment of their Majesties, 
 and the whole Court not long before, and 
 
 knighted in the previous September.] Beside the 
 works mentioned by Evelyn, he was the author of 
 Urn Burial and The Garden 0/ Cyrus, published 
 together in 1658. 
 
 1 [Mrs. Jane Bickerton (see post, under 23rd 
 January, 1678).] 
 
 2 This is another of the many evidences to which 
 attention has been drawn, that Evelyn's book 
 partakes more of the character of Memoirs than a 
 Diary, in the strict sense of that word. The title 
 "Memoirs," indeed, is given to it by himself (see 
 
 post, under 18th August, 1673). 
 
 3 [Sir Samuel Tuke (see ante, pp. 151 and 230) 
 did not die until 26th January, 1674.] 
 
 4 [Lady Anne Somerset, eldest daughter of 
 Edward, Marquess of Worcester, d. 1662.] 
 
 5 [The Ducal Palace at Norwich had been first 
 acquired by the Howard family in the reign of 
 Henry VIII. It stood " in the heart of the city," 
 and Macaulay gives a glowing account of its 
 festivities in his famous third chapter. As stated in 
 the text, Charles II. and his Court had just been 
 entertained there. Lord Howard's grandson pulled 
 it down ; and the Norwich Museum subsequently 
 occupied the site. _ Fuller called it " the greatest 
 house he ever saw in a city out of London."] 
 
 which, though much of it was but tem- 
 porary, apparently framed of boards only, 
 was yet standing. As to the palace, it is 
 an old wretched building, and that part 
 of it newly built of brick, is very ill under- 
 stood ; so as I was of opinion it had been 
 much better to have demolished all, and 
 set it up in a better place, than to pro- 
 ceed any further ; for it stands in the very 
 market-place, and, though near a river, yet 
 a very narrow muddy one, without any 
 extent. 
 
 Next morning, I went to see Sir Thomas 
 Browne (with whom I had some time cor- 
 responded by letter, though I had never 
 seen him before) ; his whole house and 
 garden being a paradise and cabinet of 
 rarities, and that of the best collection, 
 especially medals, books, plants, and 
 natural things. Amongst other curiosities, 
 Sir Thomas had a collection of the eggs 
 of all the fowl and birds he could procure, 
 that country (especially the promontory of 
 Norfolk) being frequented, as he said, by 
 several kinds which seldom or never go 
 farther into the land, as cranes, storks, 
 eagles, and variety of waterfowl. He led 
 me to see all the remarkable places of this 
 ancient city, being one of the largest, and 
 certainly, after London, one of the noblest 
 of England, for its venerable cathedral, 
 number of stately churches, cleanness of 
 the streets, and buildings of flint so ex- 
 quisitely headed and squared, as I was 
 much astonished at ; but he told me they 
 had lost the art of squaring the flints, in 
 which they so much excelled, and of which 
 the churches, best houses, and walls are 
 built. The Castle is an antique extent of 
 ground, which now they call Marsfield, 
 and would have been a fitting area to have 
 placed the Ducal Palace in. The suburbs 
 are large, the prospects sweet, with other 
 amenities, not omitting the flower-gardens, 
 in which all the inhabitants excel. The 
 fabric of stuffs brings a vast trade to this 
 populous town. 
 
 Being returned to my Lord's, who had 
 been with me all this morning, he advised 
 with me concerning a plot to rebuild his 
 house, having already, as he said, erected 
 a front next the street, and a left wing, and 
 now resolving to set up another wing and 
 pavilion next the garden, and to convert 
 the bowling-green into stables. My advice 
 
282 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1672 
 
 was, to desist from all, and to meditate 
 wholly on rebuilding a handsome palace 
 at Arundel House, in the Strand, before 
 he proceeded further here, and then to 
 place this in the Castle, that ground belong- 
 ing to his Lordship. 
 
 I observed that most of the church-yards 
 (though some of them large enough) were 
 filled up with earth, or rather the congestion 
 of dead bodies one upon another, for want 
 of earth, even to the very top of the walls, 
 and some above the walls, so as the churches 
 seemed to be built in pits. 
 
 iSth October. I returned to Euston, in 
 Lord Henry Howard's coach, leaving him 
 at Norwich, in company with a very in- 
 genious gentleman, Mr. White, 1 whose 
 father and mother (daughter to the late 
 Lord Treasurer Weston, Earl of Portland) 
 I knew at Rome, where this gentleman 
 was born, and where his parents lived and 
 died with much reputation, during their 
 banishment in our civil broils. 
 
 21st. Quitting Euston, I lodged this 
 night at Newmarket, where I found the 
 jolly blades racing, dancing, feasting, and 
 revelling, more resembling a luxurious and 
 abandoned rout, than a Christian Court. 
 The Duke of Buckingham was now in 
 mighty favour, and had with him that 
 impudent woman, the Countess of Shrews- 
 bury,' 2 with his band of fiddlers, etc. 3 
 
 Next morning, in company with Sir 
 Bernard Gascoigne, 4 and Lord Hawley, I 
 came in the Treasurer's coach to Bishop 
 Stortford, where he gave us a noble supper. 
 
 1 [Nephew of the Paris philosopher, ante, p. 159.] 
 
 2 [Anna Maria, d. 1702, daughter of Robert 
 Brudenel, Earl of Cardigan, and second wife of 
 Francis Talbot, eleventh Earl of Shrewsbury, who 
 died (16th March, 1668) after a duel fought in 
 January near Barn Elms with George Villiers, second 
 Duke of Buckingham, — his wife, it is asserted, hold- 
 ing Buckingham's horse meanwhile, in the disguise 
 of a page. For the credit of womanhood, it should, 
 hojvever, be added, on the authority of Lady Burgh- 
 clere's careful and impartial study of Dryden's very 
 various "Zimri," that, in 1674, Buckingham dis- 
 tinctly stated, when arraigned by his Peers, " that, 
 at the time of the duel, the Countess was living in 
 a ' French monastery,' " and the statement was not 
 controverted (George Villiers, 1903, p. 195). Lady 
 Shrewsbury eventually married George Rodney 
 Bridges, second son of Sir Thomas Bridges, of 
 Keynsham, Somerset.] 
 
 y* [" The ' fiddlers of Thetford ' were in favour with 
 the Court at Newmarket — not for their edifying 
 songs or behaviour" (Murray's Suffolk, etc., 1897, 
 p. 411).] 4 [See ante, p. 271.] 
 
 The following day to London, and so 
 home. 
 
 \qth Nove?)iber. To Council, where Sir 
 Charles Wheeler, late Governor of the 
 Leeward Islands, having been complained 
 of for many indiscreet managements, it was 
 resolved, on scanning many of the particulars, 
 to advise his Majesty to remove him ; and 
 consult what was to be done, to prevent 
 these inconveniences he had brought things 
 to. This business staid me in London 
 almost a week, being in Council, or Com- 
 mittee, every morning till the 25th. 
 
 27/^. We ordered that a proclamation 
 should be presented to his Majesty to sign, 
 against what Sir Charles Wheeler had done 
 in St. Christopher's since the war, on the 
 articles of peace at Breda. He was shortly 
 afterwards recalled. 
 
 6th December. Came to visit me Sir 
 William Haywood, a great pretender to 
 English antiquities. 
 
 i^th. Went to see the Duke of Bucking- 
 ham's ridiculous farce and rhapsody, called 
 The Recital, 1 buffooning all plays, yet 
 profane enough. 
 
 23rd. The Councillors of the Board of 
 Trade dined together at the Cock, in Suffolk 
 Street. 2 
 
 1671-2: 12th January. His Majesty 
 renewed us our lease of Sayes Court pastures 
 for ninety-nine years, but ought, according 
 to his solemn promise 3 (as I hope he will 
 still perform), have passed them to us in 
 fee- farm. 
 
 2yd. To London, in order to Sir Richard 
 Browne, my father-in-law, resigning his place 
 as Clerk of the Council to Joseph Wil liamson, 
 Esq. , 4 who was admitted, and was knighted. 
 This place his Majesty had promised to give 
 me many years before ; but, upon considera- 
 tion of the renewal of our lease and other 
 reasons, I chose to part with it to Sir 
 Joseph, who gave us and the rest of his 
 brother -clerks a handsome supper at his 
 house ; and, after supper, a concert of 
 music. 
 
 1 [The Rehearsal. Its aim was to ridicule the 
 fustian and absurdities of the heroic plays. It was 
 first acted at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane 3 
 7th December, 1671 ; and published in 1672.] 
 
 2 [An ordinary at the end of Suffolk Street, 
 Charing Cross, of which there is now no trace. 
 Pepys mentions it 15th March, and 7th and 23rd 
 April, 1669.] 
 
 3 The King's engagement, under his hand, is now 
 at Wotton House. 4 [See ante, p. 234.] 
 
I672J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 283 
 
 yd February. An extraordinary snow ; 
 part of the week was taken up in consult- 
 ing about the commission of prisoners of 
 war, and instructions to our officers, in 
 order to a second war with the Hollanders, 
 his Majesty having made choice of the 
 former commissioners, and myself amongst 
 them. 
 
 lltk. In the afternoon, that famous 
 proselyte, Monsieur Brevall, preached at 
 the Abbey, in English, extremely well and 
 with much eloquence. He had been a 
 Capuchin, but much better learned than 
 most of that Order. 
 
 12th. At the Council we entered on 
 inquiries about improving the Plantations 
 by silks, galls, flax, senna, etc., and con- 
 sidered how nutmegs and cinnamon might 
 be obtained, and brought to Jamaica, that 
 soil and climate promising success. Dr. 
 Worsley 1 being called in, spake many con- 
 siderable things to encourage it. "We took 
 order to send to the Plantations, that none 
 of their ships should adventure homeward 
 single, but stay for company and convoys. 
 We also deliberated on some fit person to 
 go as Commissioner to inspect their actions 
 in New England, and, from time to time, 
 report how that people stood affected. 2 — In 
 future, to meet at Whitehall. 
 
 20th. Dr. Parr, of Camberwell, 3 preached 
 a most pathetic funeral discourse and pane- 
 gyric at the interment of our late pastor, 
 Dr. Breton 4 (who died on the 18th), on 
 " Happy is the servant whom when his 
 Lord cometh," etc. This good man, 
 among other expressions, professed that he 
 had never been so touched and concerned 
 at any loss as at this, unless at that of 
 King Charles our Martyr, and Archbishop 
 Ussher, whose chaplain he had been. Dr. 
 Breton had preached on the 28th and 30th 
 of January : on the Friday, having fasted 
 all day, making his provisionary sermon 
 for the Sunday following, he went well to 
 bed ; but was taken suddenly ill, and ex- 
 pired before help could come to him. 
 
 1 [See^ost, under 15th October, 1673.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 278.] 
 
 3 (Dr. Richard Parr, 1617-91 ; Vicar of Reigate 
 and Camberwell, 1653-91. His sermon was printed 
 in this year (Manning and Bray's Surrey, 1804, 
 
 1 12 1 1 
 
 " •* (The Rev. Robert Breton, Vicar of Deptford. 
 See ante, p. 216. The Evelyns were much attached 
 to him.) 
 
 Never had a parish a greater loss, not 
 only as he was an excellent preacher, and 
 fitted for our great and vulgar auditory, 
 but for his excellent life and charity, his 
 meekness and obliging nature, industrious, 
 helpful, and full of good works. He left 
 near ^400 to the poor in his will, and that 
 what children of his should die in their 
 minority, their portion should be so em- 
 ployed. I lost in particular a special friend, 
 and one that had an extraordinary love to 
 me and mine. 
 
 25M. To London, to speak with the 
 Bishop, and Sir John Cutler, 1 our patron, 
 to present Mr. Frampton 2 (afterwards 
 Bishop of Gloucester). 
 
 1st March. A full Council of Planta- 
 tions, on the danger of the Leeward Islands, 
 threatened by the French, who had taken 
 some of our ships, and began to interrupt 
 our trade. Also in debate, whether the 
 new Governor of St. Christopher's should 
 be subordinate to the Governor of Bar- 
 badoes. The debate was serious and long. 
 
 12th. Now was the first blow given by 
 us to the Dutch convoy of the Smyrna 
 fleet, by Sir Robert Holmes 3 and Lord 
 Ossory, in which we received little save 
 blows, and a worthy reproach for attacking 
 our neighbours ere any war was proclaimed, 
 and then pretending the occasion to be, that 
 some time before, the Merlin yacht chanc- 
 ing to sail through the whole Dutch fleet, 
 their Admiral did not strike to that trifling 
 vessel. Surely, this was a quarrel slenderly 
 grounded, and not becoming Christian 
 neighbours. We are like to thrive, ac- 
 cordingly. Lord Ossory several times 
 deplored to me his being engaged in it ; he 
 had more justice and honour than in the 
 least to approve of it, though he had been 
 over-persuaded to the expedition. There 
 is no doubt but we should have surprised 
 this exceedingly rich fleet, had not the 
 avarice and ambition of Holmes and 
 Spragge 4 separated themselves, and wVi- 
 fully divided our fleet, on presumption 
 that either of them was strong enough to 
 deal with the Dutch convoy without joining 
 and mutual help ; but they so warmly plied 
 
 1 (See ante, p. 200.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Robert Frampton, 1622-1708, afterwards 
 one of the seven Bishops of 1688.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 265.] 
 
 ■* [Admiral Sir Edward Spragge, a. 1673.] 
 
284 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1672 
 
 our divided fleets, that whilst in conflict 
 the merchants sailed away, and got safe 
 into Holland. 
 
 A few days before this, the Treasurer of 
 the Household, Sir Thomas Clifford, 1 
 hinted to me, as a confidant, that his 
 Majesty would shut tip the Exchequer 
 (and, accordingly, his Majesty made use 
 of infinite treasure there, to prepare for 
 an intended rupture) ; 2 but, says he, it 
 will soon be open again, and everybody 
 satisfied ; for this bold man, who had 
 been the sole adviser of the King to invade 
 that sacred stock (though some pretend it 
 was Lord Ashley's counsel, then Chancellor 
 of the Exchequer), was so over-confident 
 of the success of this unworthy design 
 against the Smyrna merchants, as to put 
 his Majesty on an action which not only 
 lost the hearts of his subjects, and ruined 
 many widows and orphans, whose stocks 
 were lent him, but the reputation of his 
 Exchequer for ever, it being before in such 
 credit, that he might have commanded half 
 the wealth of the nation. 
 
 The credit of this bank being thus 
 broken, did exceedingly discontent the 
 people, and never did his Majesty's affairs 
 prosper to any purpose after it, for as it 
 did not supply the expense of the meditated 
 war, so it melted away, I know not how. 
 
 To this succeeded the King's Declaration 
 for an universal toleration ; 3 Papists, and 
 swarms of Sectaries, now boldly showing 
 themselves in their public meetings. This 
 was imputed to the same counsel, Clifford 
 warping to Rome as was believed, nor was 
 Lord Arlington clear of suspicion, to gratify 
 that party, but as since it has proved, and 
 was then evidently foreseen, to the extreme 
 weakening the Church of England and its 
 Episcopal Government, as it was projected. 
 I speak not this as my own sense, but 
 what was the discourse and thoughts of 
 others, who were lookers-on ; for I think 
 there might be some relaxations without 
 the least prejudice to the present Establish- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 253.] 
 
 2 On the 2nd January, 1672, Charles seized upon 
 the Goldsmiths' funds in the Exchequer to provide 
 money for the war with the Dutch, which, in 
 pursuance of the Treaty of Dover (see ante, p. 
 260), was declared 17th March following.] ^ 
 
 * [The Declaration of Indulgence dispensing 
 with the laws against Nonconformists, March 15, 
 1672.] 
 
 ment, discreetly limited, but to let go the 
 reins in this manner, and then to imagine 
 they could take them up again as easily, 
 was a false policy, and greatly destructive. 
 The truth is, our Bishops slipped the 
 occasion ; for, had they held a steady hand 
 upon his Majesty's restoration, as they 
 might easily have done, the Church of 
 England had emerged and flourished, 
 without interruption ; but they were then 
 remiss, and covetous after advantages of 
 another kind, whilst his Majesty suffered 
 them to come into a harvest, with which, 
 without any injustice, he might have re- 
 munerated innumerable gallant gentlemen 
 for their services, who had ruined them- 
 selves in the late rebellion. 1 
 
 21st March. I visited the coasts in my 
 district of Kent, and divers wounded and 
 languishing poor men, that had been in the 
 Smyrna conflict. I went over to see the 
 new-begun Fort of Tilbury ; a royal work, 
 indeed, and such as will one day bridle a great 
 city to the purpose, before they are aware. 
 
 2.yd. Captain Cox, 2 one of the Com- 
 missioners of the Navy, furnishing me with 
 a yacht, I sailed to Sheerness to see that 
 fort also, now newly finished ; several 
 places on both sides the Swale and Med- 
 way to Gillingham and Upnor, being also 
 provided with redoubts and batteries, to 
 secure the station of our men-of-war at 
 Chatham, and shut the door when the steeds 
 were stolen. 
 
 24th. I saw the chirurgeon cut off the 
 leg of a wounded sailor, the stout and 
 gallant man enduring it with incredible 
 patience, without being bound to his chair, 
 as usual on such painful occasions. I had 
 hardly courage enough to be present. Not 
 being cut off high enough, the gangrene 
 prevailed, and the second operation cost 
 the poor creature his life. 
 
 Lord ! what miseries are mortal men 
 subject to, and what confusion and mischief 
 do the avarice, anger, and ambition of 
 Princes, cause in the world ! 
 
 25M. I proceeded to Canterbury, Dover, 
 Deal, the Isle of Thanet, by Sandwich, 
 and so to Margate. Here we had abund- 
 
 1 Evelyn here refers to the fines for renewals of 
 leases not filled up during the interregnum, and now 
 to be immediately applied for. 
 
 2 [Of the Charles the Second (see ante, p. 
 261 «.).] 
 
1672] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 •85 
 
 ance of miserably wounded men, his 
 Majesty sending his chief chirurgeon, 
 Serjeant Knight, to meet me, and Dr. 
 Waldrond had attended me all the journey. 
 Having taken order for the accommoda- 
 tion of the wounded, I came back through 
 a country the best cultivated of any that in 
 my life I had anywhere seen, every field 
 lying as even as a bowling-green, and the 
 fences, plantations, and husbandry, in such 
 admirable order, as infinitely delighted me, 
 after the sad and afflicting spectacles and 
 objects I was come from. Observing 
 almost every tall tree to have a weather- 
 cock on the top bough, and some trees 
 half-a-dozen, I learned that, on a certain 
 holyday, the farmers feast their servants ; 
 at which solemnity, they set up these cocks, 
 in a kind of triumph. 
 
 Being come back towards Rochester, I 
 went to take order respecting the building 
 a strong and high wall about a house I had 
 hired of a gentleman, at a place called 
 Hartlip, for a prison, paying ^50 yearly 
 rent. Here I settled a Provost- Marshal 
 and other officers, returning by Faversham. 
 On the 30th, heard a sermon in Rochester 
 Cathedral, and so got to Sayes Court on the 
 first of April. 1 
 
 Ajh April. I went to see the fopperies 
 of the Papists at Somerset House and York 
 House, where now the French Ambassador 
 had caused to be represented our Blessed 
 Saviour at the Pascal Supper with his 
 Disciples, in figures and puppets made as 
 big as the life, of wax-work, curiously clad 
 and sitting round a large table, the room 
 nobly hung, and shining with innumerable 
 lamps and candles : this was exposed to all 
 the world ; all the City came to see it. 
 Such liberty had the Roman Catholics at 
 this time obtained. 
 
 16//2. Sat in Council, preparing Lord 
 Willoughby's 2 commission and instructions 
 as Governor of Barbadoes and the Caribbee 
 Islands. 
 
 1 [Mrs. Evelyn mentions this tour of inspection 
 in one of her letters. " Mr. Evelyn is at present 
 taking care of those that fall by the hands of the 
 Dutch, being gone to visit Chatham and Dover, 
 and the rest of those places where sick and 
 prisoners put in; Jack is with him" (Letter to 
 Lady Ann Carr, March 26, 1672).] , 
 
 2 [William Willoughby, sixth Baron Willoughby 
 of Parham, d. 1673. He had succeeded his brother 
 Francis in 1667, as Governor of Barbadoes and the 
 Caribbee Islands.] 
 
 ijt/i. Sat on business in the Star 
 Chamber. 
 
 19M. At Council, preparing instruc- 
 tions for Colonel Stapleton, how to go 
 Governor of St. Christopher's ; and heard 
 the complaints of the Jamaica merchants 
 against the Spaniards, for hindering them 
 from cutting logwood on the mainland, 
 where they have no pretence. 
 
 21 st. To my Lord of Canterbury, to 
 entreat him to engage Sir John Cutler, the 
 patron, to provide us a grave and learned 
 man, in opposition to a novice. 
 
 30//;. Congratulated Mr. Treasurer 
 Clifford's new honour, being made a 
 Baron. 1 
 
 2nd May. My son, John, was specially 
 admitted of the Middle Temple by Sir 
 Francis North, his Majesty's Solicitor- 
 General, and since Chancellor. 2 I pray 
 God. bless this beginning, my intention 
 being that he should seriously apply him- 
 self to the study of the law. 
 
 10th. I was ordered, by letter, from 
 the Council, to repair forthwith to his 
 Majesty, whom I found in the Pali-Mall, 
 in St. James's Park, where his Majesty 
 coming to me from the company, com- 
 manded me to go immediately to the sea- 
 coast, and to observe the motion of the 
 Dutch fleet and ours, the Duke and so 
 many of the flower of our nation being 
 now under sail, coming from Portsmouth, 
 through the Downs, where it was believed 
 there might be an encounter. 
 
 nth. Went to Chatham. — 12th. Heard 
 a sermon in Rochester Cathedral. 
 
 1 i>th. To Canterbury ; visited Dr. Bar- 
 grave, 3 my old fellow-traveller in Italy, 
 and great virtuoso. 
 
 14th. To Dover ; but the fleet did not 
 appear till the 16th, when the Duke of 
 York with his and the French squadron, 
 in all 170 ships (of which above 100 were 
 men-of-war), sailed by, after the Dutch, 
 who were newly withdrawn. Such a 
 gallant and formidable navy never, I think, 
 spread sail upon the seas. It was a goodly 
 yet terrible sight, to behold them as I did 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 284.] 
 
 2 Sir Francis North, 1637-85, afterwards first 
 Baron Guildford (see post, under 7th February, 
 1684).] 
 
 3 [Dr. John Bargrave, 1610-80, Dean of Canter- 
 bury. He has not been mentioned previously ; but 
 he travelled on the Continent till the Restoration.! 
 
286 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1672 
 
 passing eastward by the straits betwixt 
 Dover and Calais in a glorious day. The 
 wind was yet so high, that I could not 
 well go aboard, and they were soon got 
 out of sight. The next day, having visited 
 our prisoners and the Castle, and saluted 
 the Governor, I took horse for Margate. 
 Here, from the North Foreland Light- 
 house top (which is a Pharos, built of 
 brick, and having on the top a cradle of 
 iron, in which a man attends" a great sea- 
 coal fire all the year long, when the nights 
 are dark, for the safeguard of sailors), we 
 could see our fleet as they lay at anchor. 
 The next morning, they weighed, and 
 sailed out of sight to the N. E. 
 
 igt/i May. Went to Margate; and, the 
 following day, was carried to see a gallant 
 widow, brought up a farmeress, and I think 
 of gigantic race, rich, comely, and exceed- 
 ingly industrious. She put me in mind of 
 Deborah and Abigail, her house was so 
 plentifully stored with all manner of 
 country-provisions, all of her own growth, 
 and all her conveniences so substantial, 
 neat, and well understood ; she herself so 
 jolly and hospitable ; and her land so trim 
 and rarely husbanded, that it struck me 
 with admiration at her economy. 
 
 This town much consists of brewers of 
 a certain heady ale, and they deal much 
 in malt, etc. For the rest, it is raggedly 
 built, and has an ill haven, with a small 
 fort of little concernment, nor is the island 
 [Thanet] well disciplined ; but as to the 
 husbandry and rural part, far exceeding 
 any part of England for the accurate cul- 
 ture of their ground, in which they exceed, 
 even to curiosity and emulation. 
 
 We passed by Richborough, and in sight 
 of Reculvers, and so through a sweet garden, 
 as it were, to Canterbury. 
 
 24?7z. To London, and gave his Majesty 
 an account of my journey, and that I had 
 put all things in readiness upon all events, 
 and so returned home sufficiently wearied. 
 
 315-/. I received another command to 
 repair to the sea - side ; so I went to 
 Rochester, where I found many wounded, 
 sick, and prisoners, newly put on shore 
 after the engagement on the 28th, 1 in 
 which the Earl of .Sandwich, that incom- 
 
 1 [This was the defeat by the Duke of York of 
 the Dutch under De Ruyter in Southwold, or Sole 
 Hay.] 
 
 parable person and my particular friend, 
 and divers more whom I loved, were lost. 
 My Lord (who was Admiral of the Blue) 
 was in the Prince , which was burnt, one 
 of the best men-of-war that ever spread 
 canvass on the sea. There were lost 
 with this brave man, a son of Sir Charles 
 Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies), and 
 a son of Sir Charles Harbord (his Majesty's 
 Surveyor-General), two valiant and most 
 accomplished youths, full of virtue and 
 courage, who might have saved them- 
 selves ; but chose to perish with my Lord, 
 whom they honoured and loved above 
 their own lives. 
 
 Here, I cannot but make some reflec- 
 tions on things past. It was not above a 
 day or two that going to Whitehall to 
 take leave of his Lordship, who had his 
 lodgings in the Privy-Garden, shaking me 
 by the hand he bid me good-bye, and said 
 he thought he should see me no more, and 
 I saw, to my thinking, something boding 
 in his countenance. " No," says he, "they 
 will not have me live. Had I lost a fleet " 
 (meaning on his return from Bergen when 
 he took the East India prize) 1 "I should 
 have fared better ; but, be as it pleases 
 God — I must do something, I know not 
 what, to save my reputation." Something 
 to this effect, he had hinted to me ; thus I 
 took my leave. I well remember that the 
 Duke of Albemarle, and my now Lord 
 Clifford, had, I know not why, no great 
 opinion of his courage, because in former 
 conflicts, being an able and experienced 
 seaman (which neither of them were), he 
 always brought off his Majesty's ships 
 without loss, though not without as many 
 marks of true courage as the stoutest of 
 them ; and I am a witness that, in the 
 late war, his own ship was pierced like 
 a colander. But the business was, he was 
 utterly against this war from the beginning, 
 and abhorred the attacking of the Smyrna 
 fleet ; 2 he did not favour the heady ex- 
 pedition of Clifford at Bergen, nor was he 
 so furious and confident as was the Duke 
 of Albemarle, who believed he could van- 
 quish the Hollanders with one squadron. 3 
 My Lord Sandwich was prudent as well 
 as valiant, and always governed his affairs 
 with success and little loss ; he was for 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 240.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 241.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
1672] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 287 
 
 deliberation and reason, they for action 
 and slaughter without either ; and for this, 
 whispered as if my Lord Sandwich was 
 not so gallant, because he was not so rash, 
 and knew how fatal it was to lose a fleet, 
 such as was that under his conduct, and 
 for which these very persons would have 
 censured him on the other side. This it 
 was, I am confident, grieved him, and 
 made him enter like a lion, and fight like 
 one, too, in the midst of the hottest 
 service, where the stoutest of the rest see- 
 ing him engaged, and so many ships upon 
 him, durst not, or would not, come to his 
 succour, as some of them, whom I know, 
 might have done. Thus, this gallant 
 person perished, to gratify the pride and 
 envy of some I named. 
 
 Deplorable was the loss of one of the 
 best accomplished persons, not only of 
 this nation but of any other. He was 
 learned in sea-affairs, in politics, in mathe- 
 matics, and in music : he had been on 
 divers embassies, was of a sweet and 
 obliging temper, sober, chaste, very in- 
 genious, a true nobleman, an ornament to 
 the Court and his Prince ; nor has he left 
 any behind him who approach his many 
 virtues. 
 
 He had, I confess, served the tyrant 
 Cromwell, when a young man, but it was 
 without malice, as a soldier of fortune ; 
 and he readily submitted, and that with 
 joy, bringing an entire fleet with him from 
 the Sound, at the first tidings of his 
 Majesty's restoration. I verily believe 
 him as faithful a subject as any that were 
 not his friends. I am yet heartily grieved 
 at this mighty loss, nor do I call it to my 
 thoughts without emotion. 
 
 2nd Jttne. Trinity- Sunday I passed at 
 Rochester ; and, on the 5th, there was 
 buried in the Cathedral Monsieur Ra- 
 biniere, Rear - Admiral of the French 
 squadron, a gallant person, who died of 
 the wounds he received in the fight. This 
 ceremony lay on me, which I performed 
 with all the decency I could, inviting the 
 Mayor and Aldermen to come in their 
 formalities. Sir Jonas Atkins x was there 
 with his guards ; and the Dean and Pre- 
 bendaries : one of his countrymen pro- 
 nouncing a funeral oration at the brink of 
 
 1 [Sir Jonathan Atkins (see post, under 27th 
 October, 1673).] 
 
 his grave, which I caused to be dug in the 
 choir. This is more at large described 
 in the Gazette of that day ; Colonel 
 Rheymes, 1 my colleague in commission, 
 assisting, who was so kind as to accom- 
 pany me from London, though it was not 
 his district ; for indeed the stress of both 
 these wars lay more on me by far than on 
 any of my brethren, who had little to do in 
 theirs. — I went to see Upnor Castle, which 
 I found pretty well defended, but of no 
 great moment. 
 
 Next day, I sailed to the fleet, now 
 riding at the Buoy of the Nore, where I 
 met his Majesty, the Duke, Lord Arlington, 
 and all the great men in the Charles, lying 
 miserably shattered ; but the miss of Lord 
 Sandwich redoubled the loss to me, and 
 showed the folly of hazarding so brave a 
 fleet, and losing so many good men, for 
 no provocation but that the Hollanders 
 exceeded us in industry, and in all things 
 but envy. 
 
 At Sheerness, I gave his Majesty and his 
 Royal Highness an account of my charge, 
 and returned to Queenborough ; next day, 
 dined at Major Dorel's, Governor of Sheer- 
 ness ; thence to Rochester ; and the follow- 
 ing day, home. 
 
 12th. To London to his Majesty, to 
 solicit for money for the sick and wounded, 
 which he promised me. 
 
 iqth. To Londonagain, to solicit the same. 
 
 21st. At a Council of Plantations. Most 
 of this week busied with the sick and 
 wounded. 
 
 3rd July. To Lord Sandwich's funeral, 
 which was by water to Westminster, in 
 solemn pomp. 
 
 31st. I entertained the Maids of Honour 
 (among whom there was one I infinitely 
 esteemed for her many and extraordinary 
 virtues 2 ) at a comedy this afternoon, and 
 so went home. 
 
 1st August. I was at the marriage of 
 Lord Arlington's only daughter (a sweet 
 child if ever there was any :i ) to the Duke 
 
 1 [Colonel Bullein Rheymes (see ante, p. 233).] 
 
 2 Margaret Blagge, whom Evelyn never wearied 
 of instancing as a rare example of piety and virtue, 
 in a licentious court and depraved age (see ante, 
 p. 266). 
 
 3 [Isabella Bennet, through whom Euston Hall 
 (see ante, p. 280) came to the first Duke of Grafton. 
 She was then only five years old and her husband 
 nine (see^ost, under 6th November, 1679).] 
 
288 
 
 THE DIA R Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1672 
 
 of Grafton, the King's natural son by the 
 Duchess of Cleveland ; the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury officiating, the King and all 
 the grandees being present. I had a favour 
 given me by my Lady ; but took no great 
 joy at the thing for many reasons. 
 
 i8t/z August. Sir James Hayes, Secre- 
 tary to Prince Rupert, dined with me : 
 after dinner, I was sent for to Gravesend 
 to dispose of no fewer than 800 sick men. 
 That night, I got to the fleet at the Buoy 
 of the Nore, where I spake with the King 
 and the Duke ; and, after dinner next day, 
 returned to Gravesend. 
 
 1st September. I spent this week in 
 soliciting for moneys, and in reading to 
 my Lord Clifford my papers relating to 
 the first Holland war. — Now, our Council 
 of Plantations met at Lord Shaftesbury's 
 (Chancellor of the Exchequer) to read and 
 reform the draught of our new Patent, 
 joining the Council of Trade to our poli- 
 tical capacities. After this, I returned 
 home, in order to another excursion to the 
 sea-side, to get as many as possible of the 
 men who were recovered on board the 
 fleet. 
 
 8t/i. I lay at Gravesend, thence to 
 Rochester, returning on the nth. 
 
 i$t/i. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor of 
 Cambridge, 1 preached before the King on 
 1 Timothy vi. 6. No great preacher, but 
 a very worthy and learned man. 
 
 25M. I dined at Lord John Berkeley's, 2 
 newly arrived out of Ireland, where he had 
 been Deputy ; it was in his new house, 3 or 
 rather palace ; for I am assured it stood 
 him in near £30,000. It is very well built, 
 and has many noble rooms, but they are 
 not very convenient, consisting but of one 
 Corps de Logis ; they are all rooms of 
 state, without closets. The staircase is of 
 cedar, the furniture is princely : the kitchen 
 and stables are ill-placed, and the corridor 
 worse, having no report to the wings they 
 join to. For the rest, the fore-court is 
 noble, so are the stables ; and, above all, 
 the gardens, which are incomparable by 
 reason of the inequality of the ground, and 
 a pretty piscina. The holly hedges on 
 the terrace I advised the planting of. The 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 213.] 
 - [See ante, p. 244. ] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 244, and Pepys's Diary, 14th 
 October, 1668. 
 
 porticoes are in imitation of a house de- 
 scribed by Palladio ; but it happens to be 
 the worst in his book, though my good 
 friend, Mr. Hugh May, 1 his Lordship's 
 architect, effected it. 
 
 26th. I carried with me to dinner my 
 Lord H. Howard (now to be made Earl 
 of Norwich and Earl Marshal of England) 
 to Sir Robert Clayton's, now Sheriff of 
 London, at his new house, 2 where we had 
 a great feast ; it is built indeed for a great 
 magistrate, at excessive cost. The cedar 
 dining-room is painted with the history of 
 the Giants' War, incomparably done by 
 Mr. Streater, but the figures are too near 
 the eye. 3 
 
 6th October. Dr. Thistlethwait preached 
 at Whitehall on Rev. v. 2, — a young, but 
 good preacher. I received the blessed 
 Communion, Dr. Blandford, Bishop of 
 Worcester, and Dean of the Chapel, 
 officiating. 4 Dined at my Lord Clifford's 
 with Lord Mulgrave, 5 Sir Gilbert Talbot, 
 and Sir Robert Holmes. 
 
 St/i. I took leave of my Lady Sunder- 
 land, 7 who was going to Paris to my Lord, 
 now ambassador there. She made me 
 stay dinner at Leicester-House, 8 and after- 
 wards sent for Richardson, the famous 
 fire-eater. 9 He devoured brimstone on 
 glowing coals before us, chewing and 
 swallowing them ; he melted a beer-glass 
 and eat it quite up ; then taking a live coal 
 on his tongue, he put on it a raw oyster, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 232.] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 102. Sir Robert's house, which 
 he built to keep his shrievalty, was in the Old 
 Jewry. Afterwards for some years it was the 
 residence of Mr. Samuel Sharp, a famous surgeon 
 in his time, and was then occupied (from 1806 to 
 the close of the year 1811) by the London Institu- 
 tion, for their library and reading-rooms. 
 
 3 [These paintings were later transferred to 
 Marden Park, six miles south of Croydon, which 
 Sir Robert Clayton bought in 1677 from Evelyn's 
 cousin Sir John Evelyn of Godstone.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Walter Blandford, 1619-75 ; Bishop of 
 Worcester, 1671-75.] 
 
 5 [John Sheffield, third Earl of Mulgrave, 1648- 
 1721.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 223.] 
 
 7 [See ante, pp. 279, 280.] 
 
 8 Then a handsome brick building, on the north 
 side of Leicester- Fields, which many years later, 
 in 1708, was occupied by the German Ambassador, 
 having been let to him by the Earl of Leicester. 
 [It was pulled down in 1790.] 
 
 9 IThere is an account of Richardson's not now 
 miraculous feats in the Journal des Scavans for 
 1680.] 
 
1673] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 289 
 
 the coal was blown on with bellows till it 
 flamed and sparkled in his mouth, and so 
 remained till the oyster gaped and was 
 quite boiled. Then, he melted pitch and 
 wax with sulphur, which he drank down, 
 as it flamed ; I saw it flaming in his mouth, 
 a good while ; he also took up a thick 
 piece of iron, such as laundresses use to 
 put in their smoothing boxes, when it was 
 fiery hot, held it between his teeth, then in 
 his hand, and threw it about like a stone ; 
 but this I observed, he cared not to hold 
 very long ; then, he stood on a small pot ; 
 and bending his body, took a glowing 
 iron with his mouth from between his feet, 
 without touching the pot, or ground, with 
 his hands ; with divers other prodigious 
 feats. 
 
 13M October. After sermon (being sum- 
 moned before), I went to my Lord 
 Keeper's, Sir Orlando Bridgeman, at 
 Essex House, 1 where our new patent was 
 opened and read, constituting us that were 
 of the Council of Plantations, to be now of 
 the Council of Trade also, both united. 
 After the patent was read, we all took our 
 oaths, and departed. 
 
 24M. Met in Council, the Earl of 
 Shaftesbury, 2 now our president, swearing 
 our Secretary and his clerks, which was 
 Mr Locke, 3 an excellent learned gentle- 
 man and student of Christ Church, Mr. 
 Lloyd, and Mr. Frowde. 4 We despatched 
 a letter to Sir Thomas Lynch, Governor 
 of Jamaica, 5 giving him notice of a design 
 of the Dutch on that island. 
 
 27M. I went to hear that famous 
 preacher, Dr. Frampton, 6 at St. Giles, on 
 Psalm xxxix. 6. This divine had been 
 twice at Jerusalem, and was not only a 
 very pious and holy man, but excellent in 
 the pulpit for the moving affections. 
 
 8th November. At Council, we debated 
 the business of the consulate of Leghorn. 
 
 1 " A large, but ugly house" — says Pepys (24th 
 January, 1669), which stood near St. Clement 
 Danes Church in the Strand, and of which the 
 site is still commemorated in Essex Street, Essex 
 Court, and Devereux Court. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 264.] 
 
 3 [John Locke, 1632-1704. He was Secretary 
 to the reconstructed Council of Trade between 
 1673 and 1675. When Lord Shaftesbury withdrew 
 to Holland in 1682 Locke followed him, for which 
 he was deprived of his student's place by an order 
 from the King.] 
 
 4 [Mr. Locke's clerk.] 5 [See ante, p. 276.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 I was of the Committee with Sir Humphry 
 Winch, 1 the chairman, to examine the laws 
 of his Majesty's several plantations and 
 colonies in the West Indies, etc. 
 
 i$th. Many merchants were summoned 
 about the consulate of Venice ; which 
 caused great disputes ; the most consider- 
 able thought it useless. This being the 
 Queen Consort's birthday, there was an 
 extraordinary appearance of gallantry, and 
 a ball danced at Court. 
 
 30th. I was chosen Secretary to the 
 Royal Society. 
 
 21st December. Settled the consulate of 
 Venice. 
 
 1672 - 3 : 1st January. After public 
 prayers in the chapel at Whitehall, when 
 I gave God solemn thanks for all his 
 mercies to me the year past, and my 
 humble supplications to him for his bless- 
 ing the year now entering, I returned 
 home, having my poor deceased servant 
 (Adams) to bury, who died of a pleurisy. 
 
 yd. My son now published his version 
 of " Rapinus Hortorum." 2 
 
 2.8th. Visited Don Francisco de Melos, 
 the Portugal Ambassador, 3 who showed 
 me his curious collection of books and 
 pictures. He was a person of good parts, 
 and a virtuous man. 
 
 6th February. To Council about reform- 
 ing an abuse of the dyers with saundusf 
 and other false drugs ; examined divers of 
 that trade. 
 
 2yd. The Bishop of Chichester 5 
 preached before the King on Coloss. ii. 
 14, 15, admirably well, as he can do 
 nothing but what is well. 
 
 $th March. Our new vicar, 6 Mr. Holden, 
 preached in Whitehall chapel, on Psalm 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 234.] 
 
 2 _ " Clf Gardens, in Four Books, Originally 
 written in Latin verse, by Renatus Rapinus, and 
 now made English. By I. E. London, 1673. 
 Dedicated to Henry, Earl of Arlington, etc. etc. 
 etc." The Dedication is reprinted in Evelyn's 
 Miscellaneous Writings, pp. 623, 624. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 255.] 
 
 4 [Query, — Saunders, Sandalwood.] 
 
 5 Dr. Peter Gunning, 1614-84, who held the 
 Mastership of St. John's College, Cambridge, and 
 afterwards the Bishopric of Ely. Burnet, Hist, of 
 His Own Time, 1724, i. 590, says of him that he 
 was a man of great reading, but " a dark and per- 
 plexed preacher." 
 
 6 [I.e. Richard Holden, M.A., of Deptford, d. 
 1700. "A learn 'd man," Evelyn calls him in 
 another place. He succeeded Dr. Breton (see 
 ante, p. 283).] 
 
 U 
 
290 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1673 
 
 iv. 6, 7. This gentleman is a very excel- 
 lent and universal scholar, a good and 
 wise man ; but he had not the popular 
 way of preaching, nor is in any measure 
 fit for our plain and vulgar auditory, as his 
 predecessor was. There was, however, 
 no comparison betwixt their parts for pro- 
 found learning. But time and experience 
 may form him to a more practical way 
 than that he is in of University lectures 
 and erudition ; which is now universally 
 left off for what is much more profitable. 
 
 15M March. I heard the speech made 
 to the Lords in their House by Sir Samuel 
 Tuke, in behalf of the Papists, to take off the 
 penal laws ; and then dined with Colonel 
 Norwood. 
 
 16th. Dr. Pearson, Bishop of Chester, 1 
 preached on Hebrews ix. 14 ; a most in- 
 comparable sermon from one of the most 
 learned divines of our nation. I dined at 
 my Lord Arlington's with the Duke and 
 Duchess of Monmouth ; 2 she is one of the 
 wisest and craftiest of her sex, and has 
 much wit. Here was also the learned 
 Isaac Vossius. 3 
 
 During Lent, there is constantly the 
 most excellent preaching by the most 
 eminent bishops and divines of the nation. 
 
 26th. I was sworn a younger brother of 
 the Trinity-House, with my most worthy 
 and long- acquainted noble friend, Lord 
 Ossory (eldest son to the Duke of 
 Ormonde), Sir Richard Browne, my 
 father-in-law, being now Master of that 
 Society ; after which there was a great 
 collation. 
 
 29M. I carried my son to the Bishop 
 of Chichester, that learned and pious 
 man, Dr. Peter Gunning, 4 to be instructed 
 by him before he received the Holy Sacra- 
 ment, when he gave him most excellent 
 advice, which I pray God may influence 
 and remain with him as long as he lives ; 
 and oh that I had been so blessed and 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 170.] 
 
 - [Anne Scott, Countess of Buccleuch in her 
 own right.] 
 
 3 [Isaac Vossius, 1618-89, son of J. G. Vos, Canon 
 of Canterbury.! On coming to England, Charles II. 
 gave him a canonry at Windsor, and the University 
 of Oxford conferred on him the degree of Doctor of 
 Laws. It was said of him by the King, " He is a 
 strange man for a divine ; there is nothing he 
 refuses to believe, but the Bible." 
 
 4 [See supra, p. 289.] 
 
 instructed, when first I was admitted to 
 that sacred ordinance ! 
 
 ■7,0th. Easter-Day. Myself and son re- 
 ceived the blessed Communion, it being 
 his first time, and with that whole week's 
 more extraordinary preparation. I beseech 
 God to make him a sincere good Christian, 
 whilst I endeavour to instil into him the 
 fear and love of God, and discharge the 
 duty of a father. 
 
 At the sermon coram Rege, preached by 
 Dr. Sparrow, Bishop of Exeter, 1 to a most 
 crowded auditory ; I staid to see whether, 
 according to custom, the Duke of York 
 received the Communion with the King ; 
 but he did not, to the amazement of every- 
 body. This being the second year he had 
 forborne, 2 and put it off, and within a day 
 of the Parliament sitting, who had lately 
 made so severe an Act against the increase 
 of Popery, gave exceeding grief and 
 scandal to the whole nation, that the heir 
 of it, and the son of a martyr for the Pro- 
 testant religion, should apostatise. What 
 the consequence of this will be, God only 
 knows, and wise men dread. 
 
 i\th April. I dined with the plenipoten- 
 tiaries designed for the treaty of Nimeguen. 
 
 ijth. I carried Lady Tuke to thank the 
 Countess of Arlington for speaking to his 
 Majesty in her behalf, for being one of the 
 Queen-Consort's women. She carried us 
 up into her new dressing-room at Goring 
 House, 3 where was a bed, two glasses, 
 silver jars, arid vases, cabinets, and other 
 so rich furniture as I had seldom seen ; to 
 this excess of superfluity were we now 
 arrived and that not only at Court, but 
 almost universally, even to wantonness 
 and profusion. 
 
 Dr. Compton, 4 brother to the Earl of 
 Northampton, preached on 1 Corinth, v. 
 11- 16, showing the Church's power in 
 ordaining things indifferent ; this worthy 
 person's talent is not preaching, but he is 
 like to make a grave and serious good man. 
 
 I saw her Majesty's rich toilet in her 
 dressing-room, being all of massy gold, 
 presented to her by the King, valued at 
 £4000. 
 
 1 [Dr. Anthony Sparrow, 1612-85; Bishop of 
 Exeter, 1667-76.] 
 
 2 [Cf. Clarke's Li/e of /antes the Second, 1816, 
 i. pp. 482-83.] 
 
 3 [See ante, pp. 236, 265.] 4 [See ante, p. 267.] 
 
1673] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 291 
 
 26th April. Dr. Lamplugh l preached at 
 St. Martin's, the Holy Sacrament following, 
 which I partook of, upon obligation of the 
 late Act of Parliament, 2 enjoining every- 
 body in office, civil or military, under 
 penalty of ^500, to receive it within one 
 month before two authentic witnesses ; be- 
 ing engrossed on parchment, to be after- 
 wards produced in the Court of Chancery, 
 or some other Court of Record ; which I 
 did at the Chancery-bar, as being one of 
 the Council of Plantations and Trade ; 
 taking then also the oath of allegiance and 
 supremacy, signing the clause in the said 
 Act against Transubstantiation. 
 
 2$th May. My son was made a younger 
 brother of the Trinity - House. The new 
 master was Sir Jer. Smith, 3 one of the 
 Commissioners of the Navy, a stout sea- 
 man, who had interposed and saved the 
 Duke from perishing by a fire-ship in the 
 late war. 
 
 28M. I carried one Withers, an in- 
 genious shipwright, to the King, to show 
 him some new method of building. 
 
 29M. I saw the Italian comedy at the 
 Court, this afternoon. 
 
 \oth June. Came to visit and dine with 
 me my Lord Viscount Cornbury and his 
 Lady ; Lady Francis Hyde, sister to the 
 Duchess of York ; and Mrs. Dorothy 
 Howard, Maid of Honour. 4 We went, 
 after dinner, to see the formal and formid- 
 able camp on Blackheath, 5 raised to invade 
 Holland ; or, as others suspected, for 
 another design. Thence, to the Italian 
 glass-house at Greenwich, where glass was 
 blown of finer metal than that of Murano, 
 at Venice. 
 
 13M. Came to visit us, with other ladies 
 of rank, Mrs. Sedley, 6 daughter to Sir 
 Charles, who was none of the most virtu- 
 ous, but a wit. 
 
 1 [Dr. Thomas Lamplugh, 1615-91, afterwards 
 Archbishop of York. ] 
 
 2 [The Test Act, 25 Car. II. c. 2, by which no 
 one who would not take the Sacrament according 
 to the rites of the Church of England could hold 
 office under the Crown.] 
 
 » [Admiral Sir Jeremiah Smith, d. 1675. He is 
 often mentioned by Pepys.] 
 
 4 [See post, under 8th July, 1675.] 
 
 5 [This was one of several temporary camps 
 formed at Blackheath (see post, under 26th June).] 
 
 6 Catherine Sedley, 1657-1717, the Duke of York's 
 mistress, afterwards created by him Baroness of 
 Darlington and Countess of Dorchester (see post, 
 under 23rd August, 1678, and 19th January, 1686). 
 
 19M. Congratulated the new Lord 
 Treasurer, Sir Thomas Osborne, 1 a gentle- 
 man with whom I had been intimately 
 acquainted at Paris, and who was every day 
 at my father-in-law's house and table there ; 
 on which account, I was too confident of 
 succeeding in his favour, as I had done in 
 his predecessor's ; but such a friend shall 
 I never find, and I neglected my time, far 
 from believing that my Lord Clifford would 
 have so rashly laid down his staff, 2 as he 
 did, to the amazement of all the world, 
 when it came to the test of his receiving 
 the Communion, which I am confident he 
 forbore more from some promise he had 
 entered into to gratify the Duke, than from 
 any prejudice to the Protestant religion, 
 though I found him wavering a pretty 
 while. 
 
 23rd. To London, to accompany our 
 Council, who went in a body to congratu- 
 late the new Lord Treasurer, no friend to 
 it, because promoted by my Lord Arling- 
 ton, whom he hated. 
 
 26th. Came visitors from Court to dine 
 with me and see the army still remaining 
 encamped on Blackheath. 
 
 6th July. This evening I went to the 
 funeral of my dear and excellent friend, 
 that good man and accomplished gentle- 
 man, Sir Robert Murray, 5 * Secretary of 
 Scotland. He was buried by order of his 
 Majesty in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 2$th. I went to Tunbridge Wells, to 
 visit my Lord Clifford, late Lord Treasurer, 
 who was there to divert his mind more 
 than his body ; it was believed that he had 
 so engaged himself to the Duke, that rather 
 than take the Test, without which he was 
 not capable of holding any office, he would 
 resign that great and honourable station. 
 This, I am confident, grieved him to the 
 heart, and at last broke it ; for, though- he 
 carried with him music and people to divert 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 156.] 
 
 2 [Lord Clifford and the Duke of York resigned 
 their posts in consequence of the Test Act. The- 
 Duke was succeeded as Admiral of the Fleet by 
 Prince Rupert.] 
 
 3 See ante, p. 209. According to the testimony 
 of his contemporaries, universally beloved and 
 esteemed by men of all sides and sorts, and the life 
 and soul of the Royal Society. He delighted in 
 every occasion of doing good, and Burnet refers 
 enthusiastically to his superiority of genius and 
 comprehension {Hist, of His Own Time, 1724, i. . 
 
 59)- 
 
292 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [167 
 
 him, and, when I came to see him, lodged 
 me in his own apartment, and would not 
 let me go from him, I found he was strug- 
 gling in his mind ; and being of a rough 
 and ambitious nature, he could not long 
 brook the necessity he had brought on 
 himself, of submission to this conjuncture. 
 Besides, he saw the Dutch war, which was 
 made much by his advice, as well as the 
 shutting up of the Exchequer, 1 very un- 
 prosperous. These things his high spirit 
 could not support. Having staid here two 
 or three days, I obtained leave of my Lord 
 to return. 
 
 In my way, I saw my Lord of Dorset's 
 house at Knole, near Sevenoaks, 2 a great 
 old-fashioned house. 
 
 ^oth July. To Council, where the business 
 of transporting wool was brought before us. 
 
 31 st. I went to see the pictures of all 
 the judges and eminent men of the Long 
 Robe, newly painted by Mr. Wright, 3 and 
 set up in Guildhall, costing the City £ 1000. 
 Most of them are very like the persons they 
 represent, though I never took Wright to 
 be any considerable artist. 
 
 13th August. I rode to Durdans, 4 where 
 I dined at my Lord Berkeley's of Berkeley 
 Castle, my old and noble friend, it being 
 his wedding-anniversary, where I found the 
 Duchess of Albemarle, and other company, 
 and returned home on that evening, late. 
 
 15M. Came to visit me my Lord Chan- 
 cellor, the Earl of Shaftesbury. 
 
 iSt/i. My Lord Clifford, being about 
 this time returned from Tunbridge, and 
 preparing for Devonshire, I went to take 
 my leave of him at Wallingford - House ; 5 
 he was packing up pictures, most of which 
 were of hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces 
 
 1 See ante, p. 284. Burnet says the Earl of 
 Shaftesbury was the chief man in this advice (Hist, 
 of His Own Time, 1724, i. 306). There is a story 
 — says Bray — among the gossip of that day, that 
 Shaftesbury having formed the plan, Clifford got 
 possession of it over a bottle of wine, and carried it 
 to the King as his own. 
 
 2 [Knole Park, Sevenoaks, Kent, at present the 
 seat of Lord Sackville (Lionel Sackville Sackvillc- 
 West, G.C.M.G., second Baron). It is still said 
 to retain much of the character of the Caroline era. 
 When Evelyn wrote, it belonged to Charles Sack- 
 ville, sixth Earl of Dorset, 1638-1706.] 
 
 3 [See ante. p. 200. Wright's picture contains 
 portraits of the Judges (Sir Matthew Hale and 
 others) who, during the rebuilding of London after 
 the Fire, sat at Clifford's Inn to arrange differences 
 between landlords and tenants.] 
 
 ■* [See ante, p. 199. 1 5 [See ante, p. 258.] 
 
 of bull-baiting, bear-baiting, etc. I found 
 him in his study, and restored to him several 
 papers of state, and others of importance, 
 which he had furnished me with, on engag- 
 ing me to write the History of the Holland 
 War, with other private letters of his 
 acknowledgments to my Lord Arlington, 
 who from a private gentleman of a very 
 noble family, but inconsiderable fortune, 
 had advanced him from almost nothing. 
 The first thing was his being in Parlia- 
 ment, then knighted, then made one of the 
 Commissioners of Sick and Wounded, on 
 which occasion, we sate long together ; 
 then, on the death of Hugh Pollard, he 
 was made Comptroller of the Household 
 and Privy Councillor, yet still my brother 
 Commissioner ; after the death of Lord 
 Fitz-Harding, Treasurer of the Household, 
 he, by letters to Lord Arlington, which 
 that Lord showed me, begged of his Lord- 
 ship to obtain it for him as the very height 
 of his ambition. These were written with 
 such submissions and professions of his 
 patronage, as I had never seen any more 
 acknowledging. The Earl of Southampton 
 then dying, he was made one of the Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. His Majesty 
 inclining to put it into one hand, my Lord 
 Clifford, under pretence of making all his 
 interest for his patron, my Lord Arlington, 
 cut the grass under his feet, and procured 
 it for himself, assuring the King that Lord 
 Arlington did not desire it. Indeed, my 
 Lord Arlington protested to me that his 
 confidence in Lord Clifford made him so 
 remiss, and his affection to him was so 
 particular, that he was absolutely minded 
 to devolve it on Lord Clifford, all the world 
 knowing how he himself affected ease and 
 quiet, now growing into years, yet little 
 thinking of this go-by. This was the only 
 great ingratitude Lord Clifford showed, 
 keeping my Lord Arlington in ignorance, 
 continually assuring him he was pursuing 
 his interest, which was the Duke's, into 
 whose great favour Lord Clifford was now 
 gotten ; but which certainly cost him the 
 loss of all, namely, his going so irrevocably 
 far in his interest. 
 
 For the rest, my Lord Clifford was a 
 valiant incorrupt gentleman, ambitious, not 
 covetous ; generous, passionate, a most 
 constant sincere friend, to me in particular, 
 so as when he laid down his office, I was 
 
1673] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 293 
 
 at the end of all my hopes and endeavours. 
 These were not for high matters, but to 
 obtain what his Majesty was really indebted 
 to my father-in-law, which was the utmost 
 of my ambition, and which I had un- 
 doubtedly obtained, if this friend had stood. 
 Sir Thomas Osborne, who succeeded him, 
 though much more obliged to my father-in- 
 law-^and his family, and my long and old 
 acquaintance, being of a more haughty and 
 far less obliging nature, I could hope for 
 little ; a man of excellent natural parts ; 
 but nothing of generous or grateful. 
 
 Taking leave of my Lord Clifford, he 
 wrung me by the hand, and, looldng 
 earnestly on me, bid me God-b'ye, adding, 
 " Mr. Evelyn, I shall never see thee more." 
 "No!" said I, "my Lord, what's the 
 meaning of this ? I hope I shall see you 
 often, and as great a person again." " No, 
 Mr. Evelyn, do not expect it, I will never 
 see this place, this City, or Court again," 
 or words of this sound. In this manner, 
 not without almost mutual tears, I parted 
 from him ; nor was it long after, but the 
 news was that he was dead, and I have 
 heard from some who I believe knew, he 
 made himself away, after an extraordi- 
 nary melancholy. This is not confidently 
 affirmed, but a servant who lived in the 
 house, and afterwards with Sir Robert 
 Clayton, Lord Mayor, did, as well as 
 others, report it ; and when I hinted some 
 such thing to Mr. Prideaux, one of his 
 trustees, he was not willing to enter into 
 that discourse. 
 
 It was reported with these particulars, 
 that, causing his servant to leave him 
 unusually one morning, locking himself in, 
 he strangled himself with his cravat upon 
 the bed-tester ; his servant, not liking the 
 manner of dismissing him, and looking 
 through the key-hole (as I remember), and 
 seeing his master hanging, brake in before 
 he was quite dead, and taking him down, 
 vomiting a great deal of blood, he was 
 heard to utter these words, "Well; let 
 men say what they will, there is a God, a 
 just God above " ; after which he spake no 
 more. This, if true, is dismal. Really, 
 he was the chief occasion of the Dutch war, 
 and of all that blood which was lost at 
 Bergen in attacking the Smyrna fleet, 1 and 
 that whole quarrel. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 283. ] 
 
 This leads me to call to mind what my 
 Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury affirmed, not 
 to me only, but to all my brethren the 
 Council of Foreign Plantations, when not 
 long after, this accident being mentioned 
 as we were one day sitting in Council, his 
 Lordship told us this remarkable passage : 
 that, being one day discoursing with him 
 when he was only Sir Thomas Clifford, 
 speaking of men's advancement to great 
 charges in the nation, "Well," says he, 
 "my Lord, I shall be one of the greatest 
 men in England. Don't impute what I 
 say either to fancy, or vanity ; I am certain 
 that I shall be a mighty man ; but it will 
 not last long ; I shall not hold it, but die a 
 bloody death." " What," says my Lord, 
 "your horoscope tells you so?'" "No 
 matter for that, it will be as I tell you." 
 "Well," says my Lord Chancellor Shaftes- 
 bury, " if I were of that opinion, I either 
 would not be a great man, but decline pre- 
 ferment, or prevent my danger." 
 
 This my Lord affirmed in my hearing, 
 before several gentlemen and noblemen 
 sitting in council at Whitehall. And I the 
 rather am confident of it, remembering 
 what Sir Edward Walker (Garter King-at- 
 Arms) 1 had likewise affirmed to me a long 
 time before, even when he was first made a 
 Lord ; that carrying his pedigree to Lord 
 Clifford on his being created a peer, and, 
 finding him busy, he bade him go into his 
 study, and divert himself there till he was 
 at leisure to discourse with him about some 
 things relating to his family ; there lay, 
 said Sir Edward, on his table, his horo- 
 scope and nativity calculated, with some 
 writing under it, where he read that he 
 should be advanced to the highest degree 
 in the state that could be conferred upon 
 him, but that he should not long enjoy it, 
 but should die, or expressions to that 
 sense ; and I think, (but cannot confidently 
 say) a bloody death. This Sir Edward 
 affirmed both to me and Sir Richard 
 
 1 Sir Edward Walker, 1612-77, celebrated for his 
 knowledge of heraldry. He attended Charles II. 
 into exile, and after the Restoration he became first 
 Clerk of the Privy Council, and subsequently Garter 
 King-at-Arms. Author, among other works, of 
 Iter Carolinum, or an account of the Marches, etc., 
 of King Charles L, Military Discoveries, Histori- 
 cal Discoveries, etc. Pepys describes his bringing 
 the Garter to the Earl of Sandwich (27th May, 
 1660). 
 
294 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1674 
 
 Browne ; nor could I forbear to note this 
 extraordinary passage in these memoirs. 1 
 
 14M September. Dr. Creighton,- son to 
 the late eloquent Bishop of Bath and 
 Wells, preached to the Household on 
 Isaiah lvii. 8. . 
 
 i$th. I procured ^4000 of the Lords of 
 the Treasury, and rectified divers matters 
 about the sick and wounded. 
 
 l6tk. To Council, about choosing a new 
 Secretary. 
 
 17//Z. I went with some friends to visit 
 Mr. Bernard Grenville, at Ab's Court in 
 Surrey ; an old house in a pretty park. 3 
 
 2yrd. I went to see Paradise, a room in 
 Hatton-Garden, furnished with a represen- 
 tation of all sorts of animals handsomely 
 painted on boards, or cloth, and so cut out 
 and made to stand, move, fly, crawl, roar, 
 and make their several cries. 4 The man 
 who showed it, made us laugh heartily at his 
 formal poetry. 
 
 15M October. To Council, and swore in 
 Mr. Locke, secretary, Dr. Worsley being 
 dead. 5 
 
 2jth. To Council, about sending suc- 
 cours to recover New York ; and then we 
 read the commission and instructions to Sir 
 Jonathan Atkins, the new Governor of 
 Barbadoes. 
 
 tyh November. This night the youths of 
 the City burnt the Pope in effigy, after they 
 had made procession with it in great 
 triumph, they being displeased at the Duke 
 for altering his religion, and marrying an 
 Italian lady. 6 
 
 1 [Here Evelyn speaks of his diary by its proper 
 title.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 3 [Apps or Ab's Court, "over against Hampton 
 Court," \\ mile N.E. from Walton-on-Thames. It 
 is said to have been a residence of Wolsey. It 
 certainly once belonged to Lord Halifax, who left 
 it to the lady to whom he is believed to have been 
 privately married, Newton's niece, the beautiful 
 Catherine Barton. Pope mentions the house in the 
 Imitations of Horace, Ep. II. Bk. ii. 1. 232 : — 
 
 Delightful Abs-court, if its fields afford 
 Their fruits to you, confesses you its lord, 
 
 when it was apparently occupied by Colonel Cot- 
 terell, to whom the Epistle is addressed. A new 
 house now stands on the old site.] 
 
 4 [This was a popular exhibition at the end of the 
 seventeenth century. Locke notes it down for a 
 friend as a place to be visited.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 6 [Mary Beatrice D'Este, 1658-1718, daughter of 
 Alfonso IV., Duke of Modena. James married her 
 
 30M. On St. Andrew's day, I first saw 
 the new Duchess of York, and the Duchess 
 of Modena, her mother. 
 
 1st December. To Gresham College, 
 whither the City had invited the Royal 
 Society by many of their chief aldermen 
 and magistrates, who gave us a collation, 
 to welcome us to our first place of assembly, 
 from whence we had been driven to give 
 place to the City, on their making it their 
 Exchange, on the dreadful conflagration, 
 till their new Exchange was finished, which 
 it now was. The Society having till now 
 been entertained and having met at Arundel 
 House. 1 
 
 2nd. I dined with some friends, and 
 visited the sick : thence, to an alms-house, 
 where was prayers and relief, some very ill 
 and miserable. It was one of the best days 
 I ever spent in my life. 
 
 yd. There was at dinner my Lord 
 Lockhart, 2 designed ambassador for France, 
 a gallant and a sober person. 
 
 gt/i. I saw again the Italian Duchess 
 and her brother, the Prince Reynaldo. 
 
 20tk. I had some discourse with certain 
 strangers, not unlearned, who had been 
 born not far from Old Nineveh ; they 
 assured me of the ruins being still extant, 
 and vast and wonderful were the buildings, 
 vaults, pillars, and magnificent fragments ; 
 but they could say little of the Tower of 
 Babel that satisfied me. But the descrip- 
 tion of the amenity and fragrancy of the 
 country for health and cheerfulness, de- 
 lighted me ; so sensibly they spake of the 
 excellent air and climate in respect of our 
 cloudy and splenetic country. 
 
 24M. Visited the prisoners at Ludgate, 
 taking orders about the releasing of some. 
 
 ^oth. I gave Almighty God thanks for 
 His infinite goodness to me the year past, 
 and begged His mercy and protection 
 the year following ; afterwards, invited my 
 neighbours to spend the day with me. 
 
 1673-4 : yh January. I saw an Italian 
 opera in music, the first that had been in 
 England of this kind. 
 
 gt/i. Sent for by his Majesty to write 
 something against the Hollanders about the 
 
 in this year, his first wife, Anne Hyde, having died 
 31st March, 1671.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 253.] 
 
 2 Sir William Lockhart of Lee, 1621-76 ; Ambas- 
 sador to Paris, 1673-76.] 
 
1674] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 295 
 
 duty of the Flag and Fishery. Returned 
 with some papers. 
 
 25M March. I dined at Knightsbridge, 
 with the Bishops of Salisbury, Chester, and, 
 Lincoln, my old friends. 
 
 29/A May. His Majesty's birthday an 
 Restoration. Mr. Demalhoy, Roger L'Es 
 trange, 1 and several of my friends, cam 
 to dine with me on the happy occasion. 
 
 2Jth June. Mr. Dryden, 2 the famoufe 
 poet and now laureate, came to give me 1 
 visit. It was the anniversary of my mai - 
 riage, 3 and the first day I went into my 
 new little cell and cabinet, which I burt 
 below towards the south court, at the east 
 end of the parlour. 
 
 gth July. Paid ^"360 for purchase of 
 Dr. Jacombe's son's share in the mill and 
 land at Deptford, which I bought of the 
 Beechers. 
 
 22?id. I went to Windsor with my wife 
 and son to see my daughter Mary, who 
 was there with my Lady Tuke, and to do 
 my duty to his Majesty. Next day, to a 
 great entertainment at Sir Robert Holmes's 4 
 at Cranborne Lodge, in the Forest ; there 
 were his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, 
 Duchess, and all the Court. I returned in 
 the evening with Sir Joseph Williamson, 5 
 now declared Secretary of State. He was 
 son of a poor clergyman somewhere in 
 Cumberland, brought up at Queen's Col- 
 lege, Oxford, of which he came to be a 
 
 fellow ; then travelled with 6 and 
 
 returning when the King was restored, was 
 received as a Clerk under Mr. Secretary 
 Nicholas. Sir 'Henry Bennet (now Lord 
 Arlington) succeeding, Williamson is trans- 
 ferred to him, who loving his ease more 
 than business (though sufficiently able had 
 he applied himself to it) remitted all to his 
 man Williamson ; and, in a short time, let 
 him so into the secret of affairs, that (as his 
 Lordship himself told me) there was a kind 
 of necessity to advance him ; and so, by his 
 subtlety, dexterity, and insinuation, he got 
 now to be principal Secretary ; absolutely 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 188.] 
 
 2 [Dryden, born in 1631, was now forty-three. 
 He had been made Laureate and historiographer in 
 1670.3 
 
 * [27th June, 1647 (see ante, p. 145)-] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 265.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 234.] 
 
 6 ["Possibly one of the sons of the Marquis of 
 Ormonde" {Diet. Nat. Biog.).] 
 
 Lord Arlington's creature, and ungrateful 
 enough. It has been the fate of this 
 obliging favourite to advance those who 
 soon forgot their original. Sir Joseph was 
 a musician, could play at Jett de Goblets, 1 
 exceeding formal, a severe master to his 
 servants, but so inward with my Lord 
 O'Brien, that after a few months of that 
 gentleman's death, he married his widow, 2 
 who, being sister and heir of the Duke of 
 Richmond, brought him a noble fortune. 
 It was thought they lived not so kindly 
 after marriage as they did before. She was 
 much censured for marrying so meanly, 
 being herself allied to the Royal family. 
 
 6th August. I went to Groombridge, to 
 see my old friend, Mr. Packer ; 3 the house 
 built within a moat, in a woody valley. 
 The old house had been the place of 
 confinement of the Duke of Orleans, 4 taken 
 by one Waller (whose house it then was) 
 at the battle of Agincourt, now demolished, 
 and a new one built in its place, 5 though 
 a far better situation had been on the 
 south of the wood, on a graceful ascent. 
 At some small distance, is a large chapel, 
 not long since built by Mr. Packer's father, 
 on a vow he made to do it on the return of 
 King Charles I. out of Spain, 1625, and 
 dedicated to St. Charles ; but what saint 
 there was then of that name I am to seek, 
 for, being a Protestant, I conceive it was 
 not Borromeo. 
 
 I went to see my farm at Ripe, near 
 Lewes. 6 
 
 i<)th. His Majesty told me how ex- 
 ceedingly the Dutch were displeased at 
 my treatise of the History of Commerce ; 7 
 
 1 [This is a figure for "juggler " or " trickster" ; 
 but Evelyn may mean something more literal.] 
 
 2 Lady Catherine Stuart, sister and heir to 
 Charles Stuart, third Duke of Richmond, the 
 husband of Frances Teresa Stewart (1647-1702), one 
 of the most admired beauties of the Court, with 
 whom Charles the Second was so deeply in love 
 that he never forgave the Duke for marrying her in 
 1667, having already, it is thought, formed some 
 similar intention himself. He took the first oppor- 
 tunity of sending the Duke into an honourable 
 exile, as Ambassador to Denmark, where he shortly 
 after died (1672), leaving no issue by the Duchess. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 169.] 
 
 4 [The Duke's arms are still to be seen on a 
 stone preserved over the S. porch of the present 
 Speldhurst Church.] 
 
 5 [Circa 1660.] 
 
 6 [Seven miles E. of Lewes.] 
 
 7 Entitled Navigation and Commerce, their 
 Original and Progress, etc. Containing a succinct 
 
296 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1674 
 
 that the Holland Ambassador had com- 
 plained to him of what I had touched of 
 the Flags and Fishery, etc., 1 and desired 
 the book might be called in ; whilst, on 
 the other side, he assured me he was 
 exceedingly pleased with what I had 
 done, and gave me many thanks. How- 
 ever, it being just upon conclusion of the 
 treaty of Breda 2 (indeed it was designe 
 to have been published some months befor 
 and when we were at defiance), his Majest 
 told me he must recall it formally ; but 
 gave order that what copies should b 
 publicly seized to pacify the Ambassador,' 
 should immediately be restored to the 
 printer, and that neither he nor the vender 
 should be molested. The truth is, that 
 which touched the Hollander was much less 
 than what the King himself furnished me 
 with, and obliged me to publish, having 
 caused it to be read to him before it went 
 to the press ; but the error was, it should 
 have been published before the peace was 
 proclaimed. The noise of this book's 
 suppression made it presently be bought 
 up, and turned much to the stationer's 
 advantage. It was no other than the 
 Preface prepared to be prefixed to my 
 History of the whole War ; which I now 
 pursued no further. 
 
 2\st August. In one of the meadows 
 at the foot of the long Terrace below the 
 Castle [Windsor], works were thrown up 
 to show the King a representation of the 
 City of Maestricht, newly taken by the 
 French. 3 Bastions, bulwarks, ramparts, 
 palisadoes, grafts, horn -works, counter- 
 scarps, etc., were constructed. It was 
 attacked by the Duke of Monmouth (newly 
 come from the real siege) and the Duke 
 of York, with a little army, to show their 
 
 Account of Traffick in General ; its Benefits and 
 Improvements : of Discoveries, Wars, and Con- 
 flicts at Sea, from the Original of Navigation to 
 this Day ; with special regard to the English 
 Nation ; their several Voyages and Expeditions, 
 to the Beginning of our late Differences with 
 Holland ; In which His Majesties Title to the 
 Dominion of the Sea is asserted against the Novel, 
 and later Pretenders. By J. Evelyn, Esq., S.R.S. 
 8vo., 1674. Dedicated to the King. It was, as 
 stated, only the introduction to the intended 
 History of the Dutch War, and is reprinted in 
 Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings ', pp. 625-686. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 294.] 
 
 - [In which the honour of the flag was con- 
 ceded.] 
 
 3 [In 1673.] 
 
 skill in tactics. On Saturday night, they 
 made their approaches, opened trenches, 
 raised batteries, took the counterscarp 
 and ravelin, after a stout defence ; great 
 guns fired on both sides, grenadoes shot, 
 mines sprung, parties sent out, attempts of 
 raising the siege, prisoners taken, parleys ; 
 and, in short, all the circumstances of a 
 formal siege, to appearance, and, what is 
 most strange, all without disorder, or ill 
 accident, to the great satisfaction of a 
 thousand spectators. Being night, it made 
 a formidable show. The siege being over, 
 I went with Mr. Pepys back to London, 
 where we arrived about three in the 
 morning. 
 
 ^i$t/i September. To Council, about 
 fetching away the English left at Surinam, 
 etc., since our reconciliation with Holland. 
 
 21st. I went to see the great loss that 
 Lord Arlington had sustained by fire at 
 Goring House, 1 this night consumed to 
 the ground, with exceeding loss of hang- 
 ings, plate, rare pictures, and cabinets ; 
 hardly anything was saved of the best and 
 most princely furniture that any subject 
 had in England. My lord and lady were 
 both absent at the Bath. 
 
 6th October. The Lord Chief Baron 
 Turner, 2 and Serjeant Wild, Recorder of 
 London, 3 came to visit me. 
 
 20th. At Lord Berkeley's, I discoursed 
 with Sir Thomas Modyford, late Governor 
 of Jamaica, and with Colonel Morgan, 4 
 who undertook that gallant exploit from 
 Nombre de Dios to Panama, on the 
 Continent of America ; he told me 10,000 
 men would easily conquer all the Spanish 
 Indies, they were so secure. They took 
 great booty, and much greater had been 
 taken, had they not been betrayed and so 
 discovered before their approach, by which 
 the Spaniards had time to carry their vast 
 treasure on board ships that put off to sea 
 in sight of our men, who had no boats to 
 follow. They set fire to Panama, and 
 ravaged the country sixty miles about. 
 The Spaniards were so supine and un- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 290.] 
 
 2 Sir Edward Turner, d. 1675, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons, subsequently Solicitor-General, 
 and Lord Chief Baron. 
 
 3 Sir William Wilde, 1611-79, was King's Ser- 
 jeant, 1661 ; Judge of Common Pleas, 1668 ; and 
 King's Bench, 1673. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 278.] 
 
1675] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 297 
 
 exercised, that they were afraid to fire a 
 great gun. 
 
 31st October. My birthday, 54th year 
 of my life. Blessed be God ! It was also 
 preparation-day for the Holy Sacrament, 
 in which I participated the next day, 
 imploring God's protection for the year 
 following, and confirming my resolutions 
 of a more holy life, even upon the Holy 
 Book. The Lord assist and be gracious 
 unto me ! Amen. 
 
 1 yh November. The anniversary of my 
 baptism : I first heard that famous and 
 excellent preacher, Dr. Burnet 1 (author of 
 the History of the Reformation) on Colos- 
 sians iii. 10, with such flow of eloquence 
 and fulness of matter, as showed him to be 
 a person of extraordinary parts. 
 
 Being her Majesty's birthday, the Court 
 was exceeding splendid in clothes and 
 jewels, to the height of excess. 
 
 17///. To Council, on the business of 
 Surinam, where the Dutch had detained 
 some English in prison, ever since the first 
 war, 1665. 2 
 
 ityh. I heard that stupendous violin, 
 Signor Nicholao (with other rare musicians), 
 whom I never heard mortal man exceed 
 on that instrument. He had a stroke so 
 sweet, and made it speak like the voice 
 of a man, and, when he pleased, like 
 a concert of several instruments. He did 
 wonders upon a note, and was an ex- 
 cellent composer. Here was also that rare 
 lutanist, Dr. Wallgrave ; 3 but nothing 
 approached the violin in Nicholao's hand. 
 He played such ravishing things as 
 astonished us all. 
 
 2nd December. At Mr. Slingsby's, 
 Master of the Mint, my worthy friend, a 
 great lover of music. Heard Signor 
 Francesco on the harpsichord, 4 esteemed 
 one of the most excellent masters in Europe 
 on that instrument ; then, came Nicholao 
 with his violin, and struck all mute, but 
 Mrs. Knight, 5 who sung incomparably, 
 and doubtless has the greatest reach of 
 any English woman ; she has been lately 
 
 1 [Dr. Gilbert Burnet, 1643-1715, afterwards 
 (1689) Bishop of Salisbury. He had been dismissed 
 by the King from his Chaplaincy.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 296.] 
 
 3 [Sce^ost, under 28th February, 1684.] 
 
 4 [See Pepys's Diary, 5th August, 1667, where 
 he is referred to as a guitar player.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 201.] 
 
 roaming in Italy, and was much improved 
 in that quality. 
 
 15/^. Saw a comedy 1 at night, at 
 Court, acted by the ladies only, amongst 
 them Lady Mary and Ann, his Royal 
 Highness's two daughters, and my dear 
 friend, Mrs. Blagge, 2 who, having the 
 principal part, performed it to admiration. 
 They were all covered with jewels. 
 
 2.2nd. Was at the repetition of the 
 Pastoral, on which occasion Mrs. Blagge 
 had about her near ^20,000 worth of 
 jewels, of which she lost one worth about 
 ;£8o, borrowed of the Countess of Suffolk. 
 The press was so great, that it is a wonder 
 she lost no more. The Duke made it 
 good. 
 
 1674-5 : 2 °th January. Went to see 
 Mr. Streater, 8 that excellent painter of 
 perspective and landscape, to comfort and 
 encourage him to be cut for the stone, 
 with which that honest man was exceedingly 
 afflicted. 
 
 22nd March. Supped at Sir William 
 Petty's 4 with the Bishop of Salisbury, 5 and 
 divers honourable persons. We had a 
 noble entertainment in a house gloriously 
 furnished ; the master and mistress of it 
 were extraordinary persons. Sir William 
 
 1 This was the Masque of Calisto ; or, the 
 Chaste Nymph, by John Crowne, d. 1703. The 
 performers in the piece were, the two daughters of 
 the Duke of York, Lady Henrietta Wentworth 
 (afterwards mistress to the Duke of Monmouth), 
 the Countess of Sussex, Lady Mary Mordaunt, 
 Mrs. Blagge, who had been Maid of Honour to the 
 Queen, and Mrs. Jennings, then Maid of Honour 
 to the Duchess of York, and afterwards the 
 celebrated Duchess of Marlborough. The Duke 
 of Monmouth, Lord Dunblane, Ldrd Daincourt, 
 were among the dancers ; and Mrs. Davis, 
 Mrs. Knight, Mrs. Butler, and other celebrated 
 comedians of the day, also acted and sung in 
 the performance. The Masque was printed in 
 4to in 1675. 
 
 2 [At this time Margaret Blagge had withdrawn 
 from Court, and was living at Berkeley House with 
 her friend Lady Berkeley, wife of Lord Berkeley of 
 Stratton (see atite, p. 288). But the King and 
 Duke of York had laid their Commands" upon 
 her to take part in Crowne's masque. She 
 appropriately represented Diana.] 
 
 & See ante. p. 230. King Charles, who had a 
 great regard for this artist, is said to have sent for 
 a famous surgeon from Paris, on purpose to perform 
 the operation. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 217. Sir William Petty's house 
 was in Sackville Street, Piccadilly — the corner 
 house on the east side, opposite St. James's Church.] 
 
 5 [Dr. Seth Ward (see ante, p. 175). Walter 
 Pope, mentioned in the following note, wrote his 
 life.] 
 
298 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [i6 7: 
 
 was the son of a mean man somewhere in 
 Sussex, and sent from school to Oxford, 
 where he studied Philosophy, but was most 
 eminent in Mathematics and Mechanics ; 
 proceeded Doctor of Physic, and was 
 grown famous, as for his learning so for 
 his recovering a poor wench that had been 
 hanged for felony ; and her body having 
 been begged (as the custom is) for the 
 anatomy lecture, he bled her, put her to 
 bed to a warm woman, mnd, with spirits 
 and other means, restored her to life. 1 
 The young scholars joined and made a 
 little portion, and married her to a man 
 who had several children by her, she 
 living fifteen years after, as I have been 
 assured. Sir William came from Oxford 
 to be tutor to a neighhour of mine ; 
 thence, when the rebels were dividing 
 their conquests in Ireland, he was employed 
 by them to measure and set out the land, 
 which he did on an easy contract, so much 
 per acre. This he effected so exactly, that 
 it not only furnished him with a great 
 sum of money ; but enabled him to purchase 
 an estate worth ^"4000 a year. He after- 
 wards married the daughter of Sir Hardress 
 Waller ; 2 she was an extraordinary wit as 
 well as beauty, and a prudent woman. 
 
 Sir William, amongst other inventions, 
 was author of the double-bottomed ship, 3 
 which perished, and he was censured for 
 rashness, being lost in the Bay of Biscay in 
 a storm, when, I think, fifteen other vessels 
 miscarried. This vessel was flat-bottomed, 
 of exceeding use to put into shallow ports, 
 
 1 According to Bray, a full account of this event 
 was given in a published pamphlet at the time, 
 entitled " Newes from the Dead, or a true and 
 exact Narration of the miraculous Deliverance of 
 Anne Greene, who being executed at Oxford, Dec. 
 14, 1650, afterwards revived ; and by the care of 
 certain Physicians there, is now perfectly re- 
 covered. Oxford, the second Impression, with 
 Additions, 4to, 1651." Added to the Narrative 
 are several copies of Verses in Latin, English, and 
 French, by Gentlemen of the University, com- 
 memorative of the event ; amongst others, by 
 Joseph Williamson, afterwards Secretary of State, 
 by Christopher Wren, the famous architect, then 
 of Wadham College, by Walter Pope [author of 
 The Wish, 1697], Dr. Ralph Bathurst (the last under 
 other names), and many more. The pamphlet 
 was reprinted, but very negligently, from the 
 first and worst edition, in Morgan's Phoenix 
 Britannicus, 4to. 
 
 2 [Sir Hardress Waller, the regicide, 1604-66. 
 He was imprisoned for life.] 
 
 s See ante, p. 217. 
 
 and ride over small depths of water. It 
 consisted of two distinct keels cramped 
 together with huge timbers, etc., so as that 
 a violent stream ran between ; it bare a 
 monstrous broad sail, and he still persists 
 that it is practicable, and of exceeding use ; 
 and he has often told me he would ad- 
 venture himself in such another, could he 
 procure sailors, and his Majesty's permission 
 to make a second Experiment ; which name 
 the King gave the vessel at the launching. 1 
 
 The Map of Ireland 2 made by Sir 
 William Petty is believed to be the most 
 exact that ever yet was made of any 
 country. He did promise to publish it ; 
 and I am told it has cost him near ,£1000 
 to have it engraved at Amsterdam. There 
 is not a better Latin poet living, when he 
 gives himself that diversion ; nor is his 
 excellence less in Council and prudent 
 matters of state ; but he is so exceeding 
 nice in sifting and examining all possible 
 contingencies, that he adventures at nothing 
 which is not demonstration. There were 
 not in the whole world his equal for a 
 superintendent of manufacture and improve- 
 ment of trade, or to govern a plantation. 
 If I were a Prince, I should make him 
 my second Counsellor, at least. There is 
 nothing difficult to him. He is, besides, 
 courageous ; on which account, I cannot 
 but note a true story of him, that when Sir 
 Aleyn Brodrick sent him a challenge upon 
 a difference betwixt them in Ireland, Sir 
 William, though exceedingly purblind, 
 accepted the challenge, and it being his 
 part to propound the weapon, desired his 
 antagonist to meet him with a hatchet, or 
 axe, in a dark cellar ; which the other, of 
 course, refused. 
 
 Sir William was, with all this, facetious 
 and of easy conversation, friendly and 
 courteous, and had such a faculty of 
 imitating others, that he would take a text 
 and preach, now like a grave orthodox 
 divine, then falling into the Presbyterian 
 way, then to the fanatical, the Quaker, the 
 monk and friar, the Popish priest, with 
 such admirable action, and alteration of 
 voice and tone, as it was not possible to 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 234.] 
 
 2 [The "Down Survey" of forfeited estates 
 executed for the Commonwealth in 1654. It was 
 the first attempt at carrying out a survey on a large 
 scale scientifically.] 
 
1675] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 299 
 
 abstain from wonder, and one would swear 
 to hear several persons, or forbear to think 
 he was not in good earnest an enthusiast 
 and almost beside himself ; then, he would 
 fall out of it into a serious discourse ; but 
 it was very rarely he would be prevailed on 
 to oblige the company with this faculty, 
 and that only amongst most intimate 
 friends. My Lord Duke of Ormonde once 
 obtained it of him, and was almost ravished 
 with admiration ; but by-and-bye, he fell 
 upon a serious reprimand of the faults and 
 miscarriages of some Princes and Governors, 
 which, though he named none, did so 
 sensibly touch the Duke, who was then 
 Lieutenant of Ireland, that he began to be 
 very uneasy, and wished the spirit laid 
 which he had raised, for he was neither 
 able to endure such truths, nor could he 
 but be delighted. At last, he melted his 
 discourse to a ridiculous subject, and came 
 down from the joint stool on which he had 
 stood ; but my lord would not have him 
 preach any more. JIe never could get 
 favour at Court, because he outwitted all 
 the projectors that came near him. Having 
 never known such another genius, I cannot 
 but mention these particulars, amongst a 
 multitude of others which I could produce. 
 When I, who knew him in mean circum- 
 stances, have been in his splendid palace, 
 he would himself be in admiration how he 
 arrived at it ; nor was it his value or 
 inclination for splendid furniture and the 
 curiosities of the age, but his elegant lady 
 could endure nothing mean, or that was 
 not magnificent. He was very negligent 
 himself, and rather so of his person, and of 
 a philosophic temper. "What a to-do is 
 here ! " would he say, " I can lie in straw 
 with as much satisfaction." 
 
 He is author of the ingenious deductions 
 from the bills of mortality, which go under 
 the name of Mr. Graunt ; 1 also of that 
 useful discourse of the manufacture of wool, 
 and several others in the register of the 
 Royal Society. He was also author of that 
 paraphrase on the 104th Psalm in Latin 
 verse, which goes about in MS., and is 
 inimitable. In a word, there is nothing 
 impenetrable to him. 
 
 1 [John Graunt, the statistician, 1620-74. The 
 work referred to is presumably Natural and 
 Political Observations . . . made upon t/ie Bills 
 0/ Mortality, 166 r.] 
 
 26th March. Dr. Brideoake was elected 
 Bishop of Chichester, 1 on the translation of 
 Dr. Gunning to Ely. 2 
 
 30th. Dr. Allestree 3 preached on 
 Romans vi. 3, the necessity of those who 
 are baptized to die to sin ; a very excellent 
 discourse from an excellent preacher. 
 
 25th April. Dr. Barrow, 4 that excellent, 
 pious, and most learned man, divine, 
 mathematician, poet, traveller, and most 
 humble person, preached at Whitehall to 
 the household, on Luke xx. 27, of love and 
 charity to our neighbours. 
 
 29I/1. I read my first discourse Of Earth 
 and Vegetation before the Royal Society as 
 a lecture in course, after Sir Robert South- 
 well 6 had read his the week before On 
 Water. I was commanded by our Presi- 
 dent, and the suffrage of the Society, to 
 print it. 
 
 16th May. This day was my dear 
 friend, Mrs. Blagge, 7 married at the 
 Temple Church to my friend, Mr. Sidney 
 Godolphin, 8 Groom of the Bedchamber 
 to his Majesty. 
 
 iSth. I went to visit one Mr. Bathurst, 
 a Spanish merchant, my neighbour. 
 
 31J/. I went with Lord Ossory toDept- 
 ford, where we chose him Master of the 
 Trinity Company. 
 
 2nd June. I was at a conference of 
 the Lords and Commons in the Painted 
 Chamber, on a difference about imprisoning 
 some of their members ; and, on the 3rd, 
 at another conference, when the Lords 
 accused the Commons for their transcendent 
 
 1 [Dr. Ralph Brideoake, 1613-78 ; Bishop of 
 Chichester, 1675-78.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 195.] 3 [See ante, p. 208.] 
 
 4 Dr. Isaac Barrow, 1630-77, Master of Trinity 
 College, Cambridge ; in which he succeeded Dr. 
 John Pearson, made Bishop of Chester in 1673. 
 
 5 [A Philosophical Discourse 0/ Earth, relating 
 to the Culture and Improvement 0/ it for Vegeta- 
 tion, and the propagation 0/ Plants, etc., as it was 
 presented to the Royal Society, April 29, 1675. By 
 J. Evelyn, Esq., Fellow of the said Society, 1676.] 
 
 6 Sir Robert Southwell, 1635-1702. He was sent 
 Envoy Extraordinary to Portugal, in 1665-68, and 
 in the same capacity to Brussels, in 1671. He was 
 subsequently Clerk of the Privy Council, and having 
 shown much taste for learned and scientific re- 
 searches, was five times elected President of the 
 Royal Society. 
 
 7 Ante, p. 297, etc. ; and see post, under 8th 
 September, 1678. 
 
 8 [Sidney Godolphin, 1645-1712, afterwards first 
 Earl of Godolphin. This entry must have been 
 added later, for at this date Evelyn did not know 
 of the marriage.] 
 
;oo 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1675 
 
 misbehaviour, breach of privilege, Magna 
 Charta, subversion of government, and 
 other high, provoking, and diminishing ex- 
 pressions, showing what duties and subjec- 
 tion they owed to the Lords in Parliament, 
 by record of Henry IV. This was likely 
 to create a notable disturbance. 
 
 i$th June. This afternoon came Mon- 
 sieur Keroualle and his lady, parents to the 
 famous beauty and ***** favourite at 
 Court, 1 to see Sir R. Browne, with whom 
 they were intimately acquainted inBretagne, 
 at the time Sir Richard was sent to Brest 
 to supervise his Majesty's sea-affairs, during 
 the latter part of the King's banishment. 
 This gentleman's house was not a mile from 
 Brest ; Sir Richard made an acquaintance 
 there, and, being used very civilly, was 
 obliged to return it here, which we did. 
 He seemed a soldierly person and a good 
 fellow, as the Bretons generally are ; his 
 lady had been very handsome, and seemed 
 a shrewd understanding woman. Convers- 
 ing with him in our garden, I found several 
 words of the Breton language the same 
 with our Welsh. His daughter was now 
 made Duchess of Portsmouth, 2 and in the 
 height of favour ; but he never made any 
 use of it. 
 
 27th. At Ely House, I went to the con- 
 secration of my worthy friend, the learned 
 Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's College, 
 Oxford, now made Bishop of Lincoln. 3 
 After it, succeeded a magnificent feast, 
 where were the Duke of Ormonde, Earl 
 of Lauderdale, the Lord Treasurer, Lord 
 Keeper, etc. 
 
 8th July. I went with Mrs. Howard and 
 her two daughters 4 towards Northampton 
 Assizes, about a trial at law, in which I 
 was concerned for them as a trustee. We 
 lay this night at Henley-on-the-Thames, 
 at our attorney, Mr. Stephens's, who enter- 
 tained us very handsomely. Next day, 
 dining at Shotover, at Sir Timothy Tyrell's, 5 
 a sweet place, we lay at Oxford, where it 
 
 1 [Her father was Guillaume de Penancoet, Sieur 
 de Keroualle, a Breton gentleman of an old descent : 
 her mother, Marie de Ploeuc de Timeur (through 
 her mother) was connected with the family of de 
 Rieux.] a [In 1673.] 
 
 3 [Ely Place (or House), Holborn, belonged to 
 the See of Ely. The Bishop of Ely, Dr. Benjamin 
 Laney, 1591-1675, died there in this year. Dr. 
 Thomas Barlow, 1607-91, was Bishop of Lincoln, 
 1675-91, succeeding Dr. William Fuller, d. 1675.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 265.] 5 [See ante, p. 164.] 
 
 was the time of the Act. Mr. Robert 
 Spencer, uncle to the Earl of Sunderland, 1 
 and my old acquaintance in France, enter- 
 tained us at his apartment in Christ Church, 
 with exceeding generosity. 
 
 \oth. The Vice-Chancellor, Dr. Bathurst 2 
 (who had formerly taken particular care of 
 my son), President of Trinity College, 
 invited me to dinner, and did me great 
 honour all the time of my stay. The next 
 day, he invited me and all my company, 
 though strangers to him, to a very noble 
 feast. I was at all the academic exercises. 
 — Sunday, at St. Mary's, preached a Fellow 
 of Brasen-nose, not a little magnifying the 
 dignity of Churchmen. 
 
 1 1th. We heard the speeches, and saw 
 the ceremony of creating Doctors in 
 Divinity, Law, and Physic. I had, early 
 in the morning, heard Dr. Morison, 3 
 Botanic Professor, read on divers plants in 
 the Physic Garden : and saw that rare 
 collection of natural curiosities of Dr. 
 Plot's, 4 of Magdalen Hall, author of The 
 Natural History of Oxfordshire, all of them 
 collected in that shire, and indeed extra- 
 ordinary, that in one county there should 
 be found such variety of plants, shells, 
 stones, minerals, marcasites, 5 fowls, insects, 
 models of works, crystals, agates and 
 marbles. He was now intending to visit 
 Staffordshire, and, as he had of Oxford- 
 shire, to give us the natural, topical, 
 political, and mechanical history. Pity it 
 is that more of this industrious man's 
 genius were not employed so to describe 
 every county of England ; it would be one 
 of the most useful and illustrious works 
 that was ever produced in any age or 
 nation. 
 
 I visited also the Bodleian Library, and 
 my old friend, the learned Obadiah Walker, 6 
 head of University College, which he had 
 now almost re-built, or repaired. We then 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 267.] 2 [See ante, p. 243.] 
 
 8 Robert Morison, 1620-83, Physician to Charles 
 II., Regius Professor of Botany at Oxford, and 
 author of Prceludia Botanica, and of the fragment 
 of a Historia Plantarum Oxoniensis, which he 
 left unfinished. 
 
 4 Robert Plot, 1640-96, Doctor of Laws, one 
 of the Secretaries of the Royal Society, Royal 
 Historiographer, Keeper of. the Archives of the 
 Heralds' College ; celebrated for his Natural 
 Histories of Oxfordshire and Staffordshire. 
 
 5 [A mineral often mistaken for gold or silver 
 ore.l 6 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
I675J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 301 
 
 proceeded to Northampton, where we 
 arrived the next day. 
 
 In this journey, went part of the way Mr. 
 James Graham (since Privy Purse to the 
 Duke), a young gentleman exceedingly in 
 love with Mrs. Dorothy Howard, one of 
 the Maids of Honour in our Company. 1 I 
 could not but pity them both, the mother 
 not much favouring it. This lady was not 
 only a great beauty, but a most virtuous 
 and excellent creature, and worthy to have 
 been wife to the best of men. My advice 
 was required, and I spake to the advan- 
 tage of the young gentleman, more out of 
 pity than that she deserved no better 
 match ; for, though he was a gentleman 
 of good family, yet there was great 
 inequality. 
 
 14/^ July. I went to see my Lord 
 Sunderland's seat at Althorp, 2 four miles 
 from the ragged town of Northampton 
 (since burnt, and well re-built). It is 
 placed in a pretty open bottom, very finely 
 watered and flanked with stately woods 
 and groves in a park, with a canal, but 
 the water is not running, which is a defect. 
 The house, a kind of modern building, of 
 freestone, within most nobly furnished ; 
 the apartments very commodious, a gallery 
 and noble hall ; but the kitchen being in 
 the body of the house, and chapel too 
 small, were defects. There is an old yet 
 honourable gate-house standing awry, and 
 out-housing mean, but designed to be 
 taken away. It was moated round, after 
 the old manner, but it is now dry, and 
 turfed with a beautiful carpet. Above all, 
 are admirable and magnificent the several 
 ample gardens furnished with the choicest 
 fruit, and exquisitely kept. Great plenty 
 of oranges and other curiosities. The park 
 full of fowl, especially herns, and from it a 
 prospect to Holmby House, 3 which being 
 demolished in the late civil wars, shows 
 like a Roman ruin, shaded by the trees 
 
 1 He afterwards married her (see 15th July, «.). 
 
 2 [Althorp (see post, under 15th and 18th August, 
 1688). Althorp Park is the seat of Earl Spencer.] 
 
 3 [Holmby, or Holdenby House, 6£ m. N.W. of 
 Northampton. It was built by Sir Christopher 
 Hatton ; became a royal palace under James I. ; 
 and, in 1647, was, for a brief period, the prison of 
 Charles I. It was dismantled in 1652. At this 
 date [1675] it belonged to Lord Duras (see post, 
 under 24th October, 1675). It was afterwards in 
 the possession of the Marlborough family. The 
 present house belongs to Lord Annaly.] 
 
 about it, a stately, solemn, and pleasing 
 view. 
 
 15M. Our cause was pleaded in behalf 
 of the mother, Mrs. Howard x and her 
 daughters, before Baron Thurland, 2 who 
 had formerly been steward of Courts for 
 me ; we carried our cause, as there was 
 reason, for here was an imprudent as well 
 as disobedient son against his mother, by 
 instigation, doubtless, of his wife, one Mrs. 
 Ogle (an ancient maid), whom he had 
 clandestinely married, and who brought 
 him no fortune, he being heir-apparent to 
 the Earl of Berkshire. We lay at Brick- 
 hill, in Bedfordshire, and came late the 
 next day to our journey's end. 
 
 This was a journey of adventures and 
 knight-errantry. One of the lady's servants 
 being as desperately in love with Mrs. 
 Howard's woman, as Mr. Graham was 
 with her daughter, and she riding on 
 horseback behind his rival, the amorous 
 and jealous youth having a little drink in 
 his pate, had here killed himself had he 
 not been prevented ; for, alighting from 
 his horse, and drawing his sword, he 
 endeavoured twice or thrice to fall on it, 
 but was interrupted by our coachman, and 
 a stranger passing by. After this, running 
 to his rival, and snatching his sword from 
 his side (for we had beaten his own out of 
 his hand), and on the sudden pulling down 
 his mistress, would have run both of them 
 through ; we parted them, not without 
 some blood. This miserable creature 
 poisoned himself for her not many days 
 after they came to London. 
 
 igt/i. The Lord Treasurer's 3 Chaplain 
 preached at Wallingford-house. 
 
 1 Mrs. Howard was widow of William, fourth 
 son of the first Earl of Berkshire, being the daughter 
 of Lord Dundas, a Scottish peer. They had one 
 son, Craven Howard ; and two daughters, Dorothy, 
 who married Colonel James Graham, of Levens, in 
 Westmoreland ; and Anne, who married Sir Gabriel 
 Sylvius, Knt. Craven married two wives, the first 
 of whom was Ann Ogle, of the family of the Ogles 
 of Pinchbeck, in the county of Lincoln (Collins's 
 Peerage, 1735, ii. pp. 139, 140). She was Maid of 
 Honour to Queen Catherine at the time. These 
 two daughters are the ladies mentioned by Evelyn 
 in the text ; but he is not correct in calling Craven 
 heir-apparent of the Earl of Berks, since, besides 
 the uncle then in possession of the title, there was 
 another uncle before him, who in fact inherited it, 
 and did not die till many years after. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 262.] 
 
 3 [The Earl of Danby, late Sir Thomas Osborne 
 (see ante, p. 291).] 
 
302 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1675 
 
 9M August. Dr. Sprat, 1 prebend of 
 Westminster, and Chaplain to the Duke 
 of Buckingham, preached on the 3rd 
 Epistle of Jude, showing what the primi- 
 tive faith was, how near it and how excel- 
 lent that of the Church of England, also 
 the danger of departing from it. 
 
 2jtk. I visited the Bishop of Rochester, 
 at Bromley, and dined at Sir Philip War- 
 wick's, at Frognall. 2 
 
 2nd September. I went to see Dulwich 
 College, being the pious foundation of one 
 Alleyn, a famous comedian, in King 
 James's time. The chapel is pretty, the 
 rest of the hospital very ill contrived ; it 
 yet maintains divers poor of both sexes. 
 It is in a melancholy part of Camberwell 
 parish. I came back by a certain medicinal 
 Spa waters, at -a place called Sydenham 
 Wells, 3 in Lewisham parish, much fre- 
 quented in summer. 
 
 10th. I was casually showed the Duchess 
 of Portsmouth's splendid apartment 4 at 
 Whitehall, luxuriously furnished, and with 
 ten times the richness and glory beyond 
 the Queen's ; such massy pieces of plate, 
 whole tables, and stands of incredible 
 value. 
 
 29th. I saw the Italian Scaramuccio 
 act before the King at Whitehall, people 
 giving money to come in, which was very 
 scandalous, and never so before at Court- 
 diversions. Having seen him act before 
 in Italy, many years past, I was not averse 
 from seeing the most excellent of that kind 
 of folly. 
 
 14M October. Dined at Kensington with 
 my old acquaintance, Mr. Henshaw, newly 
 returned from Denmark, where he had 
 been left resident after the death of the 
 Duke of Richmond, 5 who died there 
 Ambassador. 
 
 i$tk. I got an extreme cold, such as 
 was afterwards so epidemical, as not only 
 to afflict us in this island, but was rife over 
 all Europe, like a plague. It was after an 
 exceeding dry summer and autumn. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 267.] 2 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 3 [The Sydenham waters (once visited by George 
 III.) would at present be vainly sought for. The 
 spring was on Sydenham Common, now enclosed.] 
 
 4 [It was over the Stone Gallery to the south of 
 the Privy Garden (see post, under 10th April, 1691). 
 It is not shown on Fisher's Plan of Whitehall, 
 1680.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 295 «.] 
 
 1 settled affairs, my son 1 being to go 
 into France with my Lord Berkeley, 2 
 designed Ambassador Extraordinary for 
 France and Plenipotentiary for the general 
 treaty of peace at Nimeguen. 
 
 2^th. Dined at Lord Chamberlain's 
 with the Holland Ambassador L. Duras^ 
 a valiant gentleman whom his Majesty 
 made an English Baron, of a cadet, 
 and gave him his seat of Holmby, in 
 Northamptonshire. 
 
 27M. Lord Berkeley coming into 
 Council, fell down in the gallery at 
 Whitehall, in a fit of apoplexy, and being 
 carried into my Lord Chamberlain's lodg- 
 ings, 4 several famous doctors were em- 
 ployed all that night, and with much ado 
 he was at last recovered to some sense, by 
 applying hot firepans and spirit of amber 
 to his head ; but nothing was found so 
 effectual as cupping him on the shoulders. 
 It was almost a miraculous restoration. 
 The next day he was carried to Berkeley 
 House. This stopped his journey for the 
 present, and caused my stay in town. He 
 had put all his affairs and his whole estate 
 in England into my hands during his in- 
 tended absence, which though I was very 
 unfit to undertake, in regard of many 
 businesses which then took me up, yet, 
 upon the great importunity of my lady and 
 Mr. Godolphin 5 (to whom I could refuse 
 nothing) I did take it on me. It seems 
 when he was Deputy in Ireland, not long 
 before, he had been much wronged by one 
 he left in trust with his affairs, and there- 
 fore wished for some unmercenary friend 
 who would take that trouble on him ; this 
 was to receive his rents, look after his 
 houses and tenants, solicit supplies from 
 the Lord Treasurer, and correspond weekly 
 with him, more than enough to employ any 
 drudge in England ; but what will not 
 friendship and love make one do ? 
 
 2,1st. Dined at my Lord Chamberlain's, 
 with my son. There were the learned 
 
 l" [See post, under 10th November, 1675, and 
 13th May, 1676.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 244.] 
 
 3 [Louis Duras, or Durfort, 1640-1709, created 
 Baron Duras of Holdenby, 1673; English Am- 
 bassador at Nimeguen, 1675, afterwards Earl of 
 Feversham (see post, under 8th July, 1685).] 
 
 4 [Lord Arlington's, by the Privy Garden.] > 
 
 5 [Godolphin's aunt Penelope was the wife of 
 Lord Berkeley's brother, Sir Charles Berkeley (see 
 Appendix V.).] 
 
I670J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 303 
 
 Isaac Vossius, 1 and Spanhemius, 2 son of 
 the famous man of Heidelberg ; nor was 
 this gentleman less learned, being a general 
 scholar. Amongst other pieces, he was 
 author of an excellent treatise on Medals. 
 
 1 oth November. Being the day appointed 
 for my Lord Ambassador to set out, I met 
 them with my coach at New Cross. There 
 were with him my Lady his wife, and my 
 dear friend, Mrs. Godolphin, who, out of 
 an extraordinary friendship, would needs 
 accompany my lady to Paris, and stay 
 with her some time, which was the chief 
 inducement for permitting my son to 
 travel, 3 but I knew him safe under her 
 inspection, and in regard my Lord himself 
 had promised to take him into his special 
 favour, he having intrusted all he had to my 
 care. 
 
 Thus we set out, three coaches (besides 
 mine), three waggons, and about forty 
 horse. It being late, and my Lord as yet 
 but valetudinary, we got but to Dartford 
 the first day, the next to Sittingbourne. 
 
 At Rochester, the major [mayor ?], Mr. 
 Cony, then an officer of mine for the sick 
 and wounded of that place, gave the ladies 
 a handsome refreshment as we came by 
 his house. 
 
 12/72. We came to Canterbury : and, 
 next morning, to Dover. 
 
 There was in my Lady Ambassadress's 
 company my Lady Hamilton, a sprightly 
 young lady, much in the good graces of 
 the family, wife of that valiant and worthy 
 gentleman George Hamilton, not long 
 after slain in the wars. She had been a 
 maid of honour to the Duchess, and now 
 turned Papist. 
 
 14///. Being Sunday, my Lord having 
 before delivered to me his letter of attorney, 
 keys, seal, and his Will, we took solemn 
 leave of one another upon the beach, the 
 coaches carrying them into the sea to the 
 boats, which delivered them to Captain 
 Gunman's yacht, the Mary. Being under 
 sail, the castle 4 gave them seventeen guns, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 290.] 
 
 2 Ezekiel Spanheim, 1629-1710. The Elector 
 Palatine, Charles Louis, to whose son he had been 
 tutor, sent him, after the peace of Ryswyk, am- 
 bassador to France, and thence to England. 
 
 3 [Young John Evelyn, now twenty, in a letter 
 to his father, calls Mrs. Godolphin his "Pretty, 
 Pious, Pearly Governesse."] 
 
 ^ [Dover Castle.] 
 
 which Captain Gunman answered with 
 eleven. Hence, I went to church, to beg 
 a blessing on their voyage. 
 
 2nd December. Being returned home, I 
 visited Lady Mordaunt at Parson's Green, 
 my Lord her son being sick. This pious 
 woman delivered to me £100 to bestow 
 as I thought fit for the release of poor 
 prisoners, and other charitable uses. 
 
 21st. Visited her Ladyship again, where 
 I found the Bishop of Winchester, 1 whom 
 I had long known in France ; he invited 
 me to his house at Chelsea. 
 
 2yd. Lady Sunderland gave me ten 
 guineas, to bestow in charities. 
 
 1675-6 : 20th February. Dr. Gunning, 
 Bishop of Ely, 2 preached before the King 
 from St. John xx. 21, 22, 23, chiefly 
 against an anonymous book, called Naked 
 Truth, a famous and popular treatise 
 against the corruption in the Clergy, but 
 not sound as to its quotations, supposed to 
 have been the Bishop of Hereford's, 3 and 
 was answered by Dr. Turner, it endeavour- 
 ing to prove an equality of order of Bishop 
 and Presbyter. 
 
 27 th. Dr. Pritchard, Bishop of Glouces- 
 ter, 4 preached at Whitehall, on Isaiah v. 5,, 
 very allegorically, according to his manner, 
 yet very gravely and wittily. 
 
 29M. I dined with Mr. Povey, 5 one of 
 the Masters of Requests, a nice contriver 
 of all elegancies, and exceedingly formal. 
 Supped with Sir J. Williamson, where 
 were of our Society Mr. Robert Boyle, Sir 
 Christopher Wren, Sir William Petty, 
 Dr. Holden, 6 subrdean of his Majesty's 
 Chapel, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler, 7 
 and our Secretary, Mr. Oldenburg. 
 
 4jth March. Sir Thomas Lynch 8 was, 
 returned from his government of Jamaica. 
 
 16th. The Countess of Sunderland and, 
 I went by water to Parson's Green, to visit 
 
 1 [Bishop Morley (see ante, p. 152).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. J95-] 
 
 3 Dr. Herbert Croft, 1603-91 ; Bishop of Here- 
 ford, 1661-91. 
 
 4 [Dr. John Pritchard or Pritchet, Bishop of 
 Gloucester, 1672-81.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 230.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 289.] 
 
 7 Dr. Daniel Whistler, 1619-84, President of the 
 College of Physicians. He accompanied Bulstrode 
 Whitelock in his embassy to Sweden. Pepys says, 
 4th February, 1661, that he found him "good com- 
 pany and a very ingenious man." 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 276.] 
 
304 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1676 
 
 my Lady Mordaunt, and to consult with 
 her about my Lord's monument. 1 We 
 returned by coach. 
 
 igt/i March. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate of 
 Deptford, but now Bishop of Llandaff, 2 
 preached before the King, on 1 Cor. xv. 
 57, that though sin subjects us to death, yet 
 through Christ we become his conquerors. 
 
 23rd. To Twickenham Park, Lord 
 Berkeley's country-seat, 3 to examine how 
 the bailiffs and servants ordered matters. 
 
 24///. Dr. Brideoak^, 4 Bishop of Chi- 
 chester, preached a mean discourse for a 
 Bishop. I also heard Dr. Fleetwood, 
 Bishop of Worcester, on Matt. xxvi. 38, 
 of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow 
 caused by our sins ; he was no great 
 preacher. 
 
 30M. Dining with my Lady Sunderland, 
 I saw a fellow swallow a knife, and divers 
 great pebble stones, which would make a 
 plain rattling one against another. The 
 knife was in a sheath of horn. 
 
 Dr. North, son of my Lord North, 
 preached before the King, on Isaiah liii. 
 57, a very young but learned and excellent 
 person. Note. This was the first time 
 the Duke appeared no more in chapel, to 
 the infinite grief and threatened ruin of 
 this poor nation. 5 
 
 2nd April. I had now* notice that my 
 dear friend, Mrs. Godolphin, was returning 
 from Paris. On the 6th, she arrived to my 
 great joy, whom I most heartily welcomed. 
 
 28M. My wife entertained her Majesty 
 at Deptford, for which the Queen gave me 
 thanks in the withdrawing-room at White- 
 hall. 
 
 The University of Oxford presented me 
 with the Marmora Oxoniettsia Arundeli- 
 ana ; 6 the Bishop of Oxford 7 writing to 
 desire that I would introduce Mr. Prideaux, 8 
 
 MJohn Mordaunt, first Baron Mordaunt of 
 Reigate in Surrey, and Viscount Mordaunt of 
 Avalon in Somerset, d. 1675.] 
 
 2 [Dr. William Lloyd, 1637-1710 ; Bishop of 
 Llandaff, 1675-79.] 
 
 a [An old house once inhabited by Bacon, who 
 here gardened and planned the Novum Organum. 
 It was transferred in 1668 to Lord Berkeley from 
 Henry Murray. The Berkeley family occupied it 
 until 1685. The site is now "a village of villas 
 and genteel residences ! "] 
 
 4 TSee ante, p. 299.] 5 See ante, p. 290. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 259.] 
 
 7 [Bishop John Fell. He was the friend of 
 Prideaux.] 
 
 8 The copy of Prideaux's book thus presented to 
 
 the editor (a young man most learned in 
 antiquities), to the Duke of Norfolk, to 
 present another dedicated to his Grace, 
 which I did, and we dined with the Duke 
 at Arundel House, and supped at the 
 Bishop of Rochester's with Isaac Vossius. 
 
 7M May. I spoke to the Duke of York 
 about my Lord Berkeley's going to Nime- 
 guen. Thence, to the Queen's Council at 
 Somerset Plouse, about Mrs. Godolphin's 
 lease of Spalding, in Lincolnshire. 
 
 wth. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and 
 went to see Mr. Montagu's 1 new palace 
 near Bloomsbury, built by Mr. Hooke, of 
 our Society, after the French manner. 2 
 
 13M. Returned home, and found my 
 son returned from France ; praised be 
 God! 
 
 22nd. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of 
 my Lord Ossory's preached, after which 
 we took barge to Trinity House in London. 
 Mr. Pepys (Secretary of the AdmiraltyJ 
 succeeded my Lord as Master. 3 
 
 2nd June. I went with my Ler4. Cham- 
 berlain to see a garden, 4 at Enfield town ; 
 thence, to Mr. Secretary Coventry's 5 lodge 
 in the Chase. 6 It is a very pretty place, 
 the house commodious, the gardens hand- 
 some, and our entertainment very free, 
 there being none but my Lord and myself. 
 That which I most wondered at was, that, 
 in the compass of twenty-five miles, yet 
 within fourteen of London, there is not a 
 house, barn, church, or building, besides 
 three lodges. 7 To this Lodge are three 
 great ponds, and some few inclosures, the 
 rest a solitary desert, yet stored with not 
 
 Evelyn is still in the library at Wotton. Humphrey 
 Prideaux, 1648-1724, became Dean of Norwich. 
 He was the author of The Connection of the His^ 
 tory of the Old ayid New Testament, 1716-18, The 
 Life of Mahomet % 1697, and other works. 
 
 1 [Ralph Montagu, 1638-1709, made Earl of 
 Montagu by King William, and Duke by Anne.] 
 
 2 [Robert Hooke, 1635-1703, Curator of the 
 Royal Society, and Surveyor of London. This 
 house was subsequently burned down in 1686 (see 
 post, under 19th January, 1686). In the building 
 erected on its site the British Museum was after- 
 wards established.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 299.] 
 
 4 Probably that of Dr. Robert Uvedale, Master 
 of the Grammar School at Enfield in 1664. See an 
 account of it in Archceologia, vol. xii. p. 188, and 
 Robinson's History of Enfield, vol. i. p. 116. 
 
 5 [Sir William Coventry (see ante, p. 151).] 
 
 6 [West Lodge. A new house has replaced the 
 old.] 
 
 7 Enfield Chase was divided in 1777. 
 
1676] 
 
 THE DIARY OP JOHN EVELYN 
 
 3^ 
 
 less than 3000 deer. These are pretty 
 retreats for gentlemen, especially for those 
 who are studious and lovers of privacy. 1 
 
 We returned in the evening by Hamp- 
 stead, to see Lord Wotton's house and 
 garden (Belsize House), 2 built with vast 
 expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish gentle- 
 man who married Lord Wotton's mother, 
 Lady Stanhope. The furniture is very 
 particular for Indian cabinets, porcelain, 
 and other solid and noble movables. The 
 gallery very fine, the gardens very large, 
 but ill-kept, yet woody and chargeable. 
 The soil a cold weeping clay, not answer- 
 ing the expense. 
 
 \2thjune. I went to Sir Thomas Bond's 
 new and fine house by Peckham ; 3 it is on 
 a flat, but has a fine garden and prospect 
 through the meadows to London. 
 
 2nd July. Dr. Castilion, 4 Prebend of 
 Canterbury, preached before the King, on 
 John xv. 22, at Whitehall. 
 
 19th. Went to the funeral of Sir William 
 Sanderson, 5 husband to the Mother of the 
 Maids, and author of two large but mean 
 histories of King James and King Charles 
 the First. He was buried at Westminster. 
 
 1st August. In the afternoon, after 
 prayers at St. James's Chapel, was chris- 
 tened a daughter of Dr. Leake's, the 
 Duke's Chaplain : godmothers were Lady 
 Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and 
 the Duchess of Monmouth : godfather, the 
 Earl of Bath. 
 
 15M. Came to dine with me my Lord 
 Halifax, 6 Sir Thomas Meeres, one of the 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty, Sir John 
 Clayton, Mr. Slingsby, Mr. Henshaw, and 
 Mr. Bridgeman. 
 
 1 [Macaulay, History, chap, iii., and Scott, 
 Fortunes of Nigel, chap, xxxvi., had hoth appar- 
 ently read this account of Enfield Chase.] 
 
 2 In Park's History ofHampstead will be found 
 notices of this house. [It was pulled down in 1831. 
 Belsize Park now occupies the site.] 
 
 3 [See post, under 23rd September, 1681. He 
 had been Comptroller of the Household to Queen 
 Henrietta Maria.] 
 
 4 [John Castilion, d. 1688, being then Dean of 
 Rochester. ] 
 
 5 Sir William Sanderson, 1586-1676. He was 
 the author of a History 0/ Mary, Queen of Scots, 
 and of Histories of James and Charles I. He held 
 the post of gentleman of the privy chamber, and 
 his wife that of "mother of the maids" (see ante, 
 p. 220). 
 
 6 [Sir George Savile, afterwards Marquess of 
 "Halifax, 1633-1695, at this date Baron Savile of 
 Eland and Viscount Halifax (see ante, p. 224).] 
 
 25M. Dined with Sir John Banks at 
 his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, on 
 recommending Mr. Upman to be tutor to 
 his son going into France. This Sir John 
 Banks was a merchant of small beginning, 
 but had amassed j£ioo,ooo. 
 
 26th. I dined at the Admiralty with 
 Secretary Pepys, and supped at the Lord 
 Chamberlain's. Here was Captain Baker, 
 who had been lately on the attempt of the 
 North-West Passage. He reported pro- 
 digious depth of ice, blue as a sapphire and 
 as transparent. The thick mists were 
 their chief impediment, and cause of their 
 return. 
 
 2nd September. I paid ^1700 to the 
 Marquis de Sissac, which he had lent to 
 my Lord Berkeley, and which I heard the 
 Marquis lost at play in a night or two. 
 
 The Dean of Chichester 1 preached 
 before the King, on Acts xxiv. 16 ; and Dr. 
 Creighton 2 preached the second sermon 
 before him on Psalm xc. 12, of wisely 
 numbering our days, and well employing 
 our time. 
 
 yd. Dined at Captain Graham's, 3 where 
 I became acquainted with Dr. Compton 4 
 (brother to the Earl of Northampton), now 
 Bishop of London, and Mr. North, 5 son to 
 the Lord North, brother to the Lord Chief 
 Justice and Clerk of the Closet, a most 
 hopeful young man. The Bishop had 
 once been a soldier, 6 had also travelled 
 Italy, and became a most sober, grave, and 
 excellent prelate. 
 
 6t/i. Supped at the Lord Chamberlain's, 
 where also supped the famous beauty and 
 errant lady, the Duchess Mazarin (all the 
 world knows her story), 7 the Duke of 
 
 1 [Dr. George Stradling, 1621-88 ; Dean of 
 Chichester, 1672-88.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 151.] 3 [See ante, p. 301.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 267.] 5 [See ante, p. 304.] 
 
 6 [A cornet of horse.] 
 
 7 [Hortense Mancini, Duchesse Mazarin, the 
 most beautiful of Cardinal Mazarin's nieces, 1646- 
 99. Before the Restoration Charles II. had been 
 anxious to marry her. In March, 1660, she had 
 become the wife of the Marquis Armand de la 
 Meilleraye (son of the marshal of that name), a 
 man of moderate nobilit}-, but extremely rich. 
 Mazarin gave her the greater part of his fortune, 
 and made the pair Duke and Duchess Mazarin. 
 Her husband proved a jealous and eccentric bigot, 
 from whom she was eventually separated, leading 
 a wandering and irregular life in Italy and else- 
 where, which brought her in 1675 to London, 
 where her former royal admirer gave her a pension 
 of .£4000 (see post, under 4th February, 1685, and 
 
 X 
 
3o6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Monmouth, Countess of Sussex (both 
 natural children of the King by the 
 Duchess of Cleveland), 1 and the Countess 
 of Derby, a virtuous lady, daughter to my 
 best friend, the Earl of Ossory. 
 
 loth September. Dined with me Mr. 
 Flamsteed, the learned astrologer and 
 mathematician, 2 whom his Majesty had 
 established in the new Observatory in 
 Greenwich Park, furnished with the 
 choicest instruments. An honest, sincere 
 man. 
 
 12th. To London, to take order about 
 the building of a house, or rather an apart- 
 ment, which had all the conveniences of a 
 house, for my dear friend, Mr. Godolphin 
 and lady, which I undertook to contrive 
 and survey, and employ workmen until it 
 should be quite finished ; it being just over- 
 against his Majesty's wood-yard by the 
 
 /Thames side, leading to Scotland-yard. 
 19M. To Lambeth, to that rare maga- 
 zine of marble, to take order for chimney- 
 v pieces, etc., for Mr. Godolphin's house. 
 The owner of the works had built for him- 
 self a pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman 
 had contracted with the Genoese for all 
 their marble. We also saw the Duke of 
 Buckingham's glass-work, where they made 
 huge vases of metal as clear, ponderous, 
 and thick as crystal ; also looking-glasses 
 far larger and better than any that come 
 from Venice. 3 
 
 I went with Mrs. Godol- 
 wife to Blackwall, to 
 
 V 
 
 [1676 
 
 gtk October. 
 phin and my 
 
 see 
 
 nth June, 1699). Lord Sandwich has a beautiful 
 painting of her by Mignard at Hinchingbrooke ; 
 and Fielding says that Sophy Western resembled 
 her {Tom Jones, bk. iv. ch. ii.).] 
 
 1 Evelyn slips here. The Duke of Monmouth's 
 mother, it is well known, was Lucy Walter of 
 Haverfordwest, sometimes called Mrs. Barlow 
 (see ante, p. 151). Lady Ann Palmer {b. 1661), on 
 the other hand (if she be intended), who married 
 Thomas, fifteenth Lord Dacre, subsequently Earl 
 of Sussex, was a daughter of the Duchess of 
 Cleveland by Charles II. 
 
 2 John Flamsteed, 1646-1719, author of Historia 
 Coelestis Britannica, and other works. A dis- 
 tinguished astronomer ; and in the comprehensive- 
 ness of his scientific knowledge, second only to Sir 
 Isaac Newton. 
 
 3 [The workmen, the principal of whom was one 
 Rosetti, were Venetians, acting under the patronage 
 of the Duke. They had come to England circa 
 1670, and established themselves at Vauxhall, 
 where there is still a Glasshouse Street. Bucking- 
 ham — says Lady Burghclere— " took out a patent 
 for extracting glass and crystals from flint " as early 
 as 1663 {George Villiers, 1903, p. 147).] 
 
 . . . / 
 some Indian curiosities ; the streets being 
 
 slippery, I fell against a piece of timber 
 
 with such violence that I could not speak 
 
 nor fetch my breath for some space : being 
 
 carried into a house and let blood, I was 
 
 removed to the water-side and so home, 
 
 where, after a day's rest, I recovered. 
 
 This being one of my greatest deliverances, 
 
 the Lord Jesus make me ever mindful and 
 
 thankful ! 
 
 31^. Being my birthday, and fifty-six 
 years old, I spent the morning in devotion 
 and imploring God's protection, with 
 solemn thanksgiving for all His signal 
 mercies to me, especially for that escape 
 which concerned me this month at Black- 
 wall. Dined with Mrs. Godolphin, and 
 returned home through a prodigious and 
 dangerous mist. 
 
 gt/i November. Finished the lease of 
 Scalding, for Mr. Godolphin. 
 <j* 16M. My son and I dining at my Lord 
 Chamberlain's, he showed us amongst 
 others that incomparable piece of Raphael's, 
 being a Minister of State dictating to Guic- 
 ciardini, the earnestness of whose face 
 looking up in expectation of what he was 
 next to write, is so to the life, and so natural, 
 as I esteem it one of the choicest pieces 
 of that admirable artist. There was a 
 Woman's head of Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 a Madonna of old Palma, and two of 
 Vandyck's, of which one was his own 
 picture at length, when young, in a leaning 
 posture ; the other, an eunuch, singing. 
 Rare pieces indeed ! Y 
 
 4th December. I saw the great ball 
 danced by all the gallants and ladies at 
 the Duchess of York's. 
 
 \oth. There fell so deep a snow as 
 hindered us from church. 
 
 12th. To London, in so great a snow, 
 as I remember not to have seen the like. 
 
 1 [Lord Arlington's picture, of which Evelyn here 
 makes mention, is not by Raphael, though long 
 attributed to him, and even engraved as his. It \$r"" 
 now given to Sebastian del Piombo ; and the 
 persons shown are held to be Ferry Carondelet, 
 Archdeacon of Bitonto, with his secretary. It is 
 at present in the Duke of Grafton's collection. 
 Vandyck's "eunuch, singing," is the portrait of 
 the organist, Hendrik Liberti. These particulars 
 have been kindly supplied by Mr. Laurence 
 Binyon of the Department of Prints and Drawings, 
 British Museum. Passavant, it may be added, 
 says that the portrait of the Archdeacon was 
 presented to Lord Arlington by the Dutch Govern- 
 ment.] 
 
1677] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 307 
 
 \"]tk December. More snow falling, I 
 was not able to get to church. 
 
 1676-7 : St/i February. I went to Roe- 
 hampton, with my lady Duchess of 
 Ormonde. The garden and perspective is 
 pretty, the prospect most agreeable. 
 
 i$th May. Came the Earl of Peter- 
 borough, 1 to desire me to be a trustee for 
 Lord Viscount Mordaunt and the Countess, 
 for the sale of certain lands set out by Act 
 of Parliament, to pay debts. 
 
 12th June. I went to London, to give 
 the Lord Ambassador Berkeley (now 
 returned from the treaty at Nimeguen) an 
 account of the great trust reposed in me 
 during his absence, I having received and 
 remitted to him no less than j£20,ooo to 
 my no small trouble and loss of time, that 
 during his absence, and when the Lord 
 Treasurer was no great friend [of his] I 
 yet procured him great sums, very often 
 soliciting his Majesty in his behalf ; looking 
 after the rest of his estates and concerns 
 entirely, without once accepting any kind 
 of acknowledgment, purely upon the 
 request of my dear friend, Mr. Godolphin. 
 I returned with abundance of thanks and 
 professions from my Lord Berkeley and 
 my Lady. 
 
 29M. This business being now at an end, 
 and myself delivered from that intolerable 
 servitude and correspondence, I had leisure 
 to be somewhat more at home and to myself. 
 yd July. I sealed the deeds of sale of 
 the manor of Bletchingley to Sir Robert 
 Clayton, 2 for payment of Lord Peter- 
 borough's debts, according to the trust of 
 the Act of Parliament. 
 
 16th. I went to Wotton. — 22nd. Mr. 
 Evans, curate of Abinger, preached an 
 excellent sermon on Matt. v. 12. In the 
 afternoon, Mr. Higham 3 at Wotton 
 catechised. 
 
 26th.. I dined at Mr. Duncomb's, at 
 Sheere, 4 whose house stands environed with 
 very sweet and quick streams. 
 
 29M. Mr. Bohun, my son's late tutor, 
 preached at Abinger, on Phil. iv. 8, very 
 elegantly and practically. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 193.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 192. There is a florid monument 
 to Sir Robert Clayton (Dryden's Ishbari) in 
 Bletchingley Church (St. Mary's). It was erected 
 during his lifetime.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 172.] 
 
 4 [See post, under 1st July, 1694.] 
 
 $tk August. I went to visit my Lord 
 Brouncker, now taking the waters at 
 Dulwich. 
 
 gt/i. Dined at the Earl of Peterborough's 
 the day after the marriage of my Lord of 
 Arundel to Lady Mary Mordaunt, daughter 
 to the Earl of Peterborough. 1 
 
 2St/i. To visit my Lord Chamberlain, 2 
 in Suffolk ; he sent his coach and six to 
 meet and bring me from St. Edmund's 
 Bury to Euston. 3 
 
 29th. We hunted in the Park and killed 
 a very fat buck. — 31^/. I went a-hawking. 
 qth September. I went to visit my Lord 
 Crofts, 4 now dying at St. Edmund's Bury, 
 and took the opportunity to see this 
 ancient town, and the remains of that 
 famous monastery and abbey. There is 
 little standing entire, save the gatehouse ; 
 it has been a vast and magnificent Gothic 
 structure, and of great extent. The gates 
 are wood, but quite plated over with iron. 
 There are also two stately churches, one 
 especially. 
 
 tyh. I went to Thetford, to the borough- 
 town, where stand the ruins of a religious 
 house : there is a round mountain 5 artifici- 
 ally raised, either for some castle, or 
 monument, which makes a pretty land- 
 scape. As we went and returned, a 
 tumbler showed his extraordinary address 
 in the Warren. I also saw the Decoy ; 
 much pleased with the stratagem. 
 
 ytk. There dined this day at my Lord's 
 one Sir John Gawdie, 6 a very handsome 
 person, but quite dumb, yet very intelligent 
 by signs, and a very fine painter ; he was 
 so civil and well bred, as it was not possible 
 to discern any imperfection by him. His 
 lady and children were also there, and he 
 was at church in the morning with us. 
 
 qth. A stranger preached at Euston 
 Church, and fell into a handsome panegyric 
 on my Lord's new building the church, 
 which indeed for its elegance and cheerful- 
 ness, is one of the prettiest country churches 
 
 1 [She was afterwards divorced by her husband, 
 being then Duchess of Norfolk (see post, under 
 April, 1700).] 
 
 2 [Lord Arlington.] 3 [See ante, p. 280.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 5 [" There is a very high hill quite round stands 
 up on one side of it and Can scarcely be ascended 
 so steep" (Celia Fiennes, Diary (1689-94), 1888, 
 122).] 
 
 6 [Sir John Gawdie, 1639-1708. He was a pupil 
 of Lely, and deaf as well as dumb.] 
 
3o8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1677 
 
 in England. My Lord told me his heart 
 smote him that, after he had bestowed so 
 much on his magnificent palace there, he 
 should see God's house in the ruin it lay in. 
 He has also re-built the parsonage-house, 
 all of stone, very neat and ample. 
 
 \oth September. To divert me, my Lord 
 would needs carry me to see Ipswich, when 
 we dined with one Mr. Mann by the way, who 
 was Recorder of the town. There were in 
 our company my Lord Huntingtower, son 
 to the Duchess of Lauderdale, Sir Edward 
 Bacon, a learned gentleman of the family 
 of the great Chancellor Verulam, and Sir 
 John Felton, with some other Knights and 
 Gentlemen. After dinner, came the Bailiff 
 and Magistrates in their formalities with 
 their maces to compliment my Lord, and 
 invite him to the town-house, where they 
 presented us a collation of dried sweet- 
 meats and wine, the bells ringing, etc. 
 Then, we went to see the town, and first, 
 the Lord Viscount Hereford's house, 1 which 
 stands in a park near the town, like that at 
 Brussels, in Flanders ; the house not great, 
 yet pretty, especially the hall. The stews 
 for fish succeed one another, and feed one 
 the other, all paved at bottom. There is 
 a good picture of the Blessed Virgin in one 
 of the parlours, seeming to be of Holbein 
 or some good master. Then we saw the 
 Haven, seven miles from Harwich. The 
 tide runs out every day, but the bedding 
 being soft mud, it is safe for shipping and 
 a station. The trade of Ipswich is for the 
 most part Newcastle coals, with which they 
 supply London ; but it was formerly a 
 clothing town. There is not any beggar 
 asks alms in the whole place, a thing very 
 extraordinary, so ordered by the prudence 
 of the Magistrates. It has in it fourteen or 
 fifteen beautiful churches ; in a word, it is 
 for building, cleanness, and good order, 
 one of the best towns in England. Cardinal 
 Wolsey was a butcher's son of Ipswich, 
 but there is little of that magnificent 
 Prelate's foundation here, besides a school 
 and I think a library, which I did not see. 
 His intentions were to build some great 
 thing. We returned late to Euston, having 
 travelled about fifty miles this day. 
 
 1 [" There is one pretty good house of y e Earle of 
 Herrifords that marry 'd one of Mr. Norborns 
 Daughters, that was Killed by S r Tho: Mont- 
 gomery" {Diary of Celia Fienncs (1689-94), 1888, 
 
 117)] 
 
 Since first I was at this place, 1 I found 
 things exceedingly improved. It is seated 
 in a bottom between two graceful swellings, 
 the main building being now in the figure 
 of a Greek II with four pavilions, two at 
 each corner, and a break in the front, 
 railed and balustered at the top, where I 
 caused huge jars to be placed full of earth 
 to keep them steady upon their pedestals 
 between the statues, which make as good 
 a show as if they were of stone, and, though 
 the building be of brick, and but two 
 stories besides cellars, and garrets covered 
 with blue slate, yet there is room enough 
 for a full court, the offices and outhouses 
 being so ample and well disposed. The 
 King's apartment is painted a fresco and 
 magnificently furnished. There are many 
 excellent pictures of the great masters. 
 The gallery is a pleasant, noble room : in 
 the break, or middle, is a billiard-table, 
 but the wainscot, being of fir, and painted, 
 does not please me so well as Spanish 
 oak without paint. The chapel is pretty, 
 the porch descending to the gardens. The 
 orange-garden is very fine, and leads into 
 the green-house, at the end of which is a 
 hall to eat in, and the conservatory some 
 hundred feet long, adorned with maps, as 
 the other side is with the heads of the 
 Caesars, ill cut in alabaster ; above, are 
 several apartments for my Lord, Lady, and 
 Duchess, 2 with kitchens and other offices 
 below, in a lesser form ; lodgings for 
 servants, all distinct, for them to retire to 
 when they please, and would be in private, 
 and have no communication with the 
 palace, which he tells me he will wholly 
 resign to his son-in-law and daughter, that 
 charming young creature. 
 
 The canal running under my lady's 
 dressing-room chamber window, is full of 
 carps and fowl, which come and are fed 
 there. The cascade at the end of the 
 canal turns a corn-mill, that provides the 
 family, and raises water for the fountains 
 and offices. To pass this canal into the 
 opposite meadows, Sir Samuel Morland 3 
 has invented a screw-bridge, which, being 
 turned with a key, lands you fifty feet 
 distant at the entrance of an ascending 
 walk of trees, a mile in length, as it is also 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 307.] 
 
 2 His daughter, the Duchess of Grafton (see 
 ante, p. 287.) 3 [See ante, p. 257.] 
 
1677] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 3°9 
 
 on the front into the park, of four rows of 
 ash trees, and reaches to the park-pale, 
 which is nine miles in compass, and the 
 best for riding and meeting the game that I 
 ever saw. There were now of red and 
 fallow deer almost a thousand, with good 
 covert, but the soil barren and flying sand, 
 in which nothing will grow kindly. The 
 tufts of fir, and much of the other wood, 
 were planted by my direction, some years 
 before. This seat is admirably placed for 
 field-sports, hawking, hunting or racing. 
 The mutton is small, but sweet. The 
 stables hold thirty horses and four coaches. 
 The out-offices make two large quadrangles, 
 so as servants never lived with more ease 
 and convenience ; never master more civil. 
 Strangers are attended and accommodated 
 as at their home, in pretty apartments 
 furnished with all manner of conveniences 
 and privacy. 
 
 There is a library full of excellent books ; 
 bathing-rooms, elaboratory, dispensary, a 
 decoy, and places to keep and fat fowl in. 
 He had now in his new church (near the 
 garden) built a dormitory, or vault, with 
 several repositories, in which to bury his 
 family. 
 
 In the expense of this pious structure, 
 the church is most laudable, most of the 
 Houses of God in this country resembling 
 rather stables and thatched cottages than 
 temples in which to serve the Most High. 
 He has built a lodge in the park for the 
 keeper, which is a neat dwelling, and might 
 become any gentleman. The same has he 
 done for the parson, little deserving it for 
 murmuring that my Lord put him some 
 time out of his wretched hovel, whilst it 
 was building. He has also erected a fair 
 inn at some distance from his palace, with 
 a bridge of stone over a river near it, and 
 repaired all the tenants' houses, so as there 
 is nothing but neatness and accommoda- 
 tions about his estate, which I yet think is 
 not above ,£1500 a year. I believe he had 
 now in his family one hundred domestic 
 servants. 
 
 His lady (being one of the Brederode's 
 daughters, grandchild to a natural son of 
 Henry Frederick, Prince of Orange) is a 
 good-natured and obliging woman. 1 They 
 love tine things, and to live easily, pompously, 
 
 1 [Isabella von Beverweert. She was a sister of 
 Lady Ossory, and daughter of Henry de Nassau.] 
 
 and hospitably ; but, with so vast expense, 
 as plunges my Lord into debts exceedingly. 
 My Lord himself is given into no expensive 
 vice but building, and to have all things rich, 
 polite, and princely. He never plays, but 
 reads much, having the Latin, French, and 
 Spanish tongues in perfection. He has 
 travelled much, and is the best-bred and 
 courtly person his Majesty has about him, 
 so as the public Ministers more frequent 
 him than any of the rest of the Nobility. 
 Whilst he was Secretary of State and Prime 
 Minister, he had gotten vastly, but spent it 
 as hastily, even before he had established 
 a fund to maintain his greatness ; and now 
 beginning to decline in favour (the Duke 
 being no great friend of his), he knows not 
 how to retrench. He was son of a Doctor 
 of Laws, 1 whom I have seen, and, being 
 sent from Westminster School to Oxford, 
 with intention to be a divine, and parson 
 of Arlington, 2 a village near Brentford, 
 when Master of Arts, the Rebellion falling 
 out, he followed the King's Army, and 
 receiving an honourable wound in the face^ 
 grew into favour, and was advanced from 
 a mean fortune, at his Majesty's restoration, 
 to be an Earl and Knight of the Garter, 
 Lord Chamberlain of the Household, and 
 first favourite for a long time, during which 
 the King married his natural son, the Duke 
 of Grafton, to his only daughter and 
 heiress, as before mentioned, 4 worthy for 
 her beauty and virtue of the greatest Prince 
 in Christendom. My Lord is, besides this, 
 a prudent and understanding person in 
 business, and speaks well ; unfortunate yet 
 in those he has advanced, most of them 
 proving ungrateful. The many obliga- 
 tions and civilities I have received from 
 
 1 [Sir John Bennet. Another Sir John Bennet, 
 d. 1627, was his grandfather.] 
 
 2 Harlington. He wished to be called Lord 
 Cheney, and for some days was so called. But a 
 Buckinghamshire gentleman of that name objecting, 
 he took the title of a little farm that had belonged 
 to his father, — "the proper and true name of the 
 place being Harlington, a little village between 
 London and Uxbridge " (Life of Edward Earl of 
 Clarendon, 1827, ii. 359). 
 
 3 A deep cut across his nose. He was obliged 
 always to wear a black lozenge-shaped patch upon 
 it, and so is represented in his portraits \e.g-. that by 
 Lely, in the possession of the Earl of Tankerville. 
 According to Anthony Hamilton "this remarkable 
 plaister so well suited his mysterious looks, that 
 it seemed an addition to his gravity and self- 
 sufficiency " (Memoirs qfGravimont, chap, vii.).] 
 
 ■4 [See ante, p. 257.] 
 
3io 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1677 
 
 this noble gentleman, extracts from me 
 this character, and I am sorry he is in no 
 better circumstances. 
 
 Having now passed near three weeks at 
 Euston, to my great satisfaction, with much 
 difficulty he suffered me to look homeward, 
 being very earnest with me to stay longer ; 
 and, to engage me, would himself have 
 carried me to Lynn Regis, a town of im- 
 portant traffic, about twenty miles beyond, 
 which I had never seen ; as also the 
 Travelling Sands, about ten miles wide of 
 Euston, that have so damaged the country, 
 rolling from place to place, and, like the 
 Sands in the Deserts of Lybia, quite over- 
 whelmed some gentlemen's whole estates, 
 as the relation extant in print, and brought 
 to our Society, describes at large. 
 
 13M September. My Lord's coach con- 
 veyed me to Bury, and thence baiting at 
 Newmarket, stepping in at Audley End 1 
 to see that house again, I slept at Bishop 
 Stortford ; and, the next day, home. I 
 was accompanied in my journey by Major 
 Fairfax, of a younger house of the Lord 
 Fairfax,'- a soldier, a traveller, an ex- 
 cellent musician, a good-natured, well-bred 
 gentleman. 
 
 i&t/i. I preferred Mr. Phillips 3 (nephew 
 of Milton) to the service of my Lord 
 Chamberlain, who wanted a scholar to 
 read to and entertain him sometimes. 
 
 I2tk October. With Sir Robert Clayton 
 to Marden, an estate he had bought lately 
 of my kinsman, Sir John Evelyn, of God- 
 stone in Surrey, which from a despicable 
 farm-house Sir Robert had erected into a 
 seat with extraordinary expense. 4 It is 
 in such a solitude among hills, as, being 
 not above sixteen miles from London, seems 
 almost incredible, the ways up to it are so 
 winding and intricate. The gardens are 
 large, and well walled, and the husbandry 
 part made very convenient and perfectly 
 understood. The barns, the stacks of corn, 
 the stalls for cattle, pigeon-house, etc., of 
 most laudable example. Innumerable are 
 the plantations of trees, especially walnuts. 
 The orangery and gardens are very curious. 
 In the house are large and noble rooms. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 184.] 2 [See ante, p. 181.] 
 
 •* [See ante, p. 229.] 
 
 4 [Marden Park, Surrey, six miles south of 
 Croydon, now the residence of Walpole Greenwell, 
 Esq. Wilberforce lived here for a time.] 
 
 He and his lady (who is very curious in 
 distillery) entertained me three or four days 
 very freely. I earnestly suggested to him 
 the repairing of an old desolate dilapidated 
 church, standing on the hill above the 
 house, 1 which I left him in good disposition 
 to do, and endow it better ; there not being 
 above four or five houses in the parish, 
 besides that of this prodigious rich scrivener.' 2 
 This place is exceeding sharp in the winter, 
 by reason of the serpentining of the hills : 
 and it wants running water ; but the solitude 
 much pleased me. All the ground is so full 
 of wild thyme, marjoram, and other sweet 
 plants, that it cannot be overstocked with 
 bees ; I think he had near forty hives of 
 that industrious insect. 
 
 14th. I went to church at Godstone, 
 and to see old Sir John Evelyn's 3 dormi- 
 tory, joining to the church, paved with 
 marble, where he and his lady lie on a 
 very stately monument at length ; he in 
 armour of white marble. The inscription 
 is only an account of his particular branch 
 of the family, on black marble. 
 
 i$th. Returned to London; in the 
 evening, I saw the Prince of Orange, and 
 supped with Lord Ossory. 
 
 23^. Saw again the Prince of Orange ; 
 his marriage with the Lady Mary, eldest 
 daughter to the Duke of York, by Mrs. 
 Hyde, the late Duchess, was now declared. 4 
 
 1 \th November. I was all this week com- 
 posing matters between old Mrs. Howard 
 and Sir Gabriel Sylvius, upon his long and 
 earnest addresses to Mrs. Anne, her second 
 daughter, 5 Maid of Honour to the Queen. 
 
 1 Woldingham. The Church— according to Bray 
 — consisted of one room about thirty feet long and 
 twenty-one wide, without any tower, spire, or bell. 
 It was considered as a Donative, not subject to the 
 Bishop ; and service was performed therein once a 
 month. No churchwarden ; two farm-houses, four 
 cottages ; and by the Population Return, even as 
 late as 1811, the number of inhabitants was only 
 fifty -eight [which in 1904 had increased to two 
 hundred and twenty]. That disposition in Sir 
 Robert Clayton which Evelyn fancied he saw, 
 appears to have subsided, for the church remained 
 for a long time as it was in the Diarist's day. [In 
 1890 it was restored by the present owner of Marden 
 Park.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 192 ; and post, under 18th 
 November, 1679.] 
 
 3 [Sir John Evelyn of Leigh Place, d. 1643. His 
 "lady" was Thomasine Heynes of Chessington.] 
 
 4 [It took place 4th November, 1677.] 
 
 5 See ante, p. 301. Evelyn dedicated his Life of 
 Mrs. Godolphin to Lady Sylvius. 
 
1678] 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 3" 
 
 My friend, Mrs. Godolphin (who exceed- 
 ingly loved the young lady), was most 
 industrious in it, out of pity to the languish- 
 ing knight ; so as though there were great 
 differences in their years, it was at last 
 effected, and they were married the 13th, 
 in Henry VII.'s Chapel, by the Bishop of 
 Rochester, 1 there being besides my wife and 
 Mrs. Graham, her sister, 2 Mrs. Godolphin, 
 and very few more. We dined at the old 
 lady's, and supped at Mr. Graham's at St. 
 James's. 
 
 15th November. The Queen's birthday, 
 a great Ball at Court, where the Prince of 
 Orange and his new Princess danced. 
 
 19M. They went away, and I saw em- 
 barked my Lady Sylvius, who went into 
 Holland with her husband, made Hoff- 
 maester to the Prince, a considerable em- 
 ployment. We parted with great sorrow, 
 for the great respect and honour I bore her, 
 a most pious and virtuous lady. 
 
 27th. Dined at the Lord Treasurer's 
 with Prince Rupert, Viscount Fauconberg, 3 
 Earl of Bath, Lord O'Brien, Sir John 
 Lowther, 4 Sir Christopher Wren, Dr. Grew, 5 
 and other learned men. 
 
 Tpth. Sir Joseph Williamson, Principal 
 Secretary of State, was chosen President of 
 the Royal Society, after my Lord Viscount 
 Brouncker had possessed the chair now 
 sixteen years successively, and therefore 
 now thought fit to change, that prescription 
 might not prejudice. 
 
 4th December. Being the first day of his 
 taking the chair, he gave us a magnificent 
 supper. 
 
 2.0th. Carried to my Lord Treasurer an 
 account of the Earl of Bristol's Library, at 
 Wimbledon, which my Lord thought of 
 purchasing, till I acquainted him that it was 
 a very broken collection, consisting much in 
 books of judicial astrology, romances, and 
 trifles. 
 
 l Dr. John Dolben, 1625-86, also Dean of West- 
 minster, translated afterwards to York. 
 2 .[Dorothy Howard (see ante, p. 301).] 
 
 3 [Thomas Belasyse, 1627-1700, Viscount Faucon- 
 berg. He married Mary. Cromwell's daughter.] 
 
 4 [Sir John Lowther, 1655-1700, afterwards first 
 Viscount Lonsdale.] 
 
 5 [Dr. Nehemiah Grew, 1641-1712, author of the 
 Anatomy of Plants, 1682, and one of the first who 
 advocated the theory of different sexes in botany. 
 He was Secretary to the Royal Society, 1677-79. 
 and made a catalogue of the rarities belonging to 
 them.] 
 
 2$lh. I gave my son an Office, 1 with 
 instructions how to govern his youth ; 
 I pray God give him the grace to make a 
 right use of it ! 
 
 1677-8: 2yd January. Dined with 
 the Duke of Norfolk, being the first time 
 I had seen him since the death of his elder 
 brother, who died at Padua in Italy,' 2 where 
 he had resided above thirty years. The 
 Duke had now newly declared his marriage 
 to his concubine, whom he promised me he 
 never would marry. 3 I went with him to 
 see the Duke of Buckingham, thence to my 
 Lord Sunderland, now Secretary of State, 
 to show him that rare piece of Vorstermans' 4 
 (son of old Vorsterman), which was a view, 
 or landscape of my Lord's palace, etc., at 
 Althorp, in Northamptonshire. 
 
 8th February. Supping at my Lord 
 Chamberlain's I had a long discourse with 
 the Count de Castel Mellor, lately Prime 
 Minister in Portugal, who, taking part 
 with his master, King Alphonso, was 
 banished by his brother, Don Pedro, now 
 Regent ; but had behaved himself so un- 
 corruptly in all his ministry that, though 
 he was acquitted, and his estate restored, 
 yet would they not suffer him to return. 
 He is a very intelligent and worthy gentle- 
 man. 5 
 
 18th. My Lord Treasurer sent for me 
 to accompany him to Wimbledon, which 
 he had lately purchased of the Earl 
 of Bristol ; 6 so breaking fast with him 
 privately in his chamber, I accompanied 
 him with two of his daughters, my Lord 
 Conway, and Sir Bernard Gascoyne ; 7 
 and, having surveyed his gardens and 
 alterations, returned late at night. 
 
 22nd. Dr. Pierce 8 preached at White- 
 hall, on 2 Thessalonians iii. 6, against our 
 late schismatics, in a rational discourse, 
 but a little over - sharp, and not at all 
 proper for the auditory there. 
 
 1 [A service-book or book of prayers.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 127.] 
 
 3 [Lord Henry Howard, now Duke of Norfolk, 
 had married his second wife, Mrs. Jane Bickerton, 
 daughter of Robert Bickerton, a Scotchman, who was 
 Gentleman of the Wine-Cellar to King Charles II. 
 (see ante, p. 281 ; and post, under 23rd August, 
 1678).] 
 
 4 [Johannes Vorstermans, 1643-99.] 
 
 5 [See post, under 10th July, 1685.] 
 
 6 Lord Treasurer Danby had purchased Wim- 
 bledon House from the widow of Lord Bristol, 
 who died in 1676 (see ante, p. 219).] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 271.] ° [See ante, p. 192.] 
 
THR D/Ak Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1678 
 
 22nd March. Dr. South 1 preached coram 
 Rege, an incomparable discourse on this 
 text, "A wounded spirit who can bear !" 
 Note : Now was our Communion-table 
 placed altar wise ; the church steeple, clock, 
 and other reparations finished. 
 
 i6tk April. I showed Don Emmanuel 
 de Lyra (Portugal Ambassador) and the 
 Count de Castel Mellor, 2 the Repository 
 of the Royal Society, and the College of 
 Physicians. 
 
 i2>th. I went to see new Bedlam 
 Hospital, magnificently built, 3 and most 
 sweetly placed in Moorfields, since the 
 dreadful fire in London. 
 
 2%th June. I went to Windsor with my 
 Lord Chamberlain (the castle now repairing 
 with exceeding cost) to see the rare work 
 of Verrio, and incomparable carving of 
 Gibbons. 
 
 2tyh. Returned with my Lord by 
 Hounslow Heath, where we saw the new- 
 raised army encamped, designed against 
 France, in pretence, at least ; but which 
 gave umbrage to the Parliament. His 
 Majesty and a world of company were in 
 the field, and the whole army in battalia ; 
 a very glorious sight. Now were brought 
 into service a new sort of soldiers, called 
 Grenadiers, who were dexterous in flinging 
 hand grenadoes, every one having a pouch 
 full ; they had furred caps with coped 
 crowns like Janizaries, which made them 
 look very fierce, and some had long hoods 
 hanging down behind, as we picture fools. 
 Their clothing being likewise piebald, 
 yellow and red. 
 
 Zth Jtdy. Came to dine with me my 
 Lord Longford, Treasurer of Ireland, 
 nephew to that learned gentleman, my 
 Lord Aungier, 4 with whom I was long 
 since acquainted : also the Lady Stidolph, 
 and other company. 
 
 19M. The Earl of Ossory came to take 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 266. ] 
 
 2 [Portuguese Prime Minister.] 
 
 3 This Bedlam, of which Robert Hooke was 
 architect, and of which there is a view in Strype, 
 was taken down in 1814, and a new one erected, 
 from the designs of James Lewis, on the Surrey 
 side of the Thames, in the road leading from St. 
 George's Fields to Lambeth. On pulling the first 
 building down, the foundations were found to be 
 very bad, it having been built on part of the 
 Town-ditch, and on a soil very unfit for the 
 erection of so large a structure. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 184.] 
 
 his leave of me, going into Holland to 
 command the English forces. 
 
 20th. I went to the Tower to try a metal 
 at the Assay-master's, which only proved 
 sulphur ; then saw Monsieur Rotier, that 
 excellent graver belonging to the Mint, 
 who emulates even the ancients, in both 
 metal and stone ; l he was now moulding 
 a horse for the King's statue, to be cast in 
 silver, of a yard high. I dined with Mr. 
 Slingsby, Master of the Mint. 
 
 23rd. Went to see Mr. Elias Ash mole's 
 library and curiosities, at Lambeth. 2 He 
 has divers MSS., but most of them astro- 
 logical, to which study he is addicted, 
 though I believe not learned, but very 
 industrious, as his History of the order of 
 the Garter proves. 3 He showed me a toad 
 included in amber. The prospect from a 
 turret is very fine, it being so near London, 
 and yet not discovering any house about 
 the country. The famous John Tradescant 4 
 bequeathed his Repository to this gentle- 
 man, who has given them to the University 
 of Oxford, and erected a lecture on them, 
 over the laboratory, in imitation of the 
 Royal Society. 5 
 
 Mr. Godolphin was made Master of the 
 Robes to the King. 
 
 2$t/i. There was sent me Jjo ; from 
 whom I knew not, to be by me distributed 
 among poor people ; I afterwards found it 
 was from that dear friend (Mrs. Godolphin), 
 who had frequently given me large sums to 
 bestow on charities. 
 
 16th August. I went to Lady Mordaunt, ti 
 who put £100 into my hand to dispose of 
 for pious uses, relief of prisoners, poor, 
 etc. Many a sum had she sent me on 
 
 1 John Roettier, or Rotier, 1631 - 1703, the 
 medallist, who introduced the figure of Britannia 
 into the coinage, taking for his model the King's 
 favourite, Frances Teresa Stewart, Duchess of 
 Richmond and Lennox. [Her portrait by Lely is 
 in William III.'s State Bedroom at Hampton 
 Court. Pepys mentions Roettier, Diary, 8th 
 March, 1663.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 195.] 
 
 3 {Institutions, etc. , 0/ the most noble Order of 
 the Garter, London, folio, 1672.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 195.] 
 
 5 [The donation took effect in 1677, and a suit- 
 able building was erected by Sir Christopher 
 Wren, in 1682, bearing the name of the " Ash- 
 molean Museum." In it are preserved good 
 portraits of Ashmole, and of the Tradescant 
 family, by William Dobson. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 307. J 
 
1678] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 3*3 
 
 similar occasions ; a blessed creature she 
 was, and one that loved and feared God 
 
 exemplarily. ^ ~* 
 
 23rd August. Upon Sir Robert Read- 
 ing's 1 importunity, I went to visit the Duke 
 of Norfolk, at his new Palace at Wey bridge, 2 
 where he has laid out in building near 
 £ 10,000, on a copyhold, and in a miser- 
 able, barren, sandy place by the street- 
 side ; never in my life had I seen such 
 expense to so small purpose. The rooms 
 are wainscoted, and some of them richly 
 parqueted with cedar, yew, cypress, etc. 
 There are some good pictures, especially 
 that incomparable painting of Holbein's, 
 where the Duke of Norfolk, Charles 
 Brandon, and Henry VIII., are dancing 
 with the three ladies, with most amorous 
 countenances, and sprightly motion ex- 
 quisitely expressed. It is a thousand pities 
 (as I told my Lord of Arundel his son), 
 that that jewel should be given away. 
 
 24th. I went to see my Lord of St. 
 Albans' house, at By fleet, an old large 
 building. Thence to the paper - mills, 
 where I found them making a coarse white 
 paper. They cull the rags which are linen 
 for white paper, woollen for brown ; then 
 they stamp them in troughs to a pap, with 
 pestles, or hammers, like the powder- 
 mills, then put it into a vessel of water, in 
 which they dip a frame closely wired with 
 wire as small as a hair and as close as a 
 weaver's reed ; on this they take up the 
 pap, the superfluous water draining through 
 the wire ; this they dexterously turning, 
 shake out like a pancake on a smooth 
 board between two pieces of flannel, then 
 press it between a great press, the flannel 
 sucking out the moisture ; then, taking it 
 out, they ply and dry it on strings, as they 
 dry linen in the laundry ; then dip it in 
 alum-water, lastly, polish and make it up 
 in quires. They put some gum in the 
 
 1 [See post, under 10th January, 1684.] 
 
 2 This house, Ham House, as it was at one 
 time called, was the property of Mrs. Jane 
 Bickerton, whom the Duke married (see ante, p. 
 311). After his death, she married Mr. Maxwell, 
 and they, together with Lord George Howard 
 (her eldest son by the Duke), sold it to Catherine 
 Sedley, afterwards Countess of Dorchester, 
 mistress to James II. The Countess, who bore 
 a daughter to James II. subsequently married 
 David Colyear, Earl of Portmore. [The site, near 
 the church, is now covered with villas.] (See 
 post, tinder 19th January, 1686.) 
 
 water in which they macerate the rags. 
 The mark we find on the sheets is formed 
 in the wire. 1 
 
 25M. After evening prayer, visited Mr. 
 Sheldon (nephew to the late Archbishop 
 of Canterbury), and his pretty melancholy 
 garden ; I took notice of the largest arbor 
 thuyris I had ever seen. The place is 
 finely watered, and there are many curiosi- 
 ties of India, shown in the house. 
 
 There was at Weybridge the Duchess 
 of Norfolk, Lord Thomas Howard 2 (a 
 worthy and virtuous gentleman, with 
 whom my son was sometime bred in 
 Arundel House), who was newly come 
 from Rome, where he had been some time ; 
 also one of the Duke's daughters, by his 
 first lady. My Lord leading me about the 
 house made no scruple of showing me all 
 the hiding-places for the Popish priests, 3 
 and where they said mass, for he was no 
 bigoted Papist. He told me he never 
 trusted them with any secret, and used 
 Protestants only in all businesses of im- 
 portance. 
 
 I went this evening with my Lord Duke 
 to Windsor, where was a magnificent Court, 
 it being the first time of his Majesty remov- 
 ing thither since it was repaired. 
 
 27th. I took leave of the Duke, and 
 dined at Mr. Henry Brouncker's, 4 at the 
 Abbey of Sheen, formerly a Monastery 
 of Carthusians, there yet remaining one of 
 their solitary cells with a cross. Within this 
 ample enclosure are several pretty villas 
 and fine jrardens of the most excellent 
 fruits, especially Sir William Temple's 5 
 (lately Ambassador into Holland), and the 
 Lord Lisle's, son to the Earl of Leicester,* 5 
 
 1 [" There are no paper mills at Byfleet now ; 
 the nearest are at Woking " (Thorne, Environs of 
 London, 1876, p. 70).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 222.] 
 
 3 [Others called them merely cupboards, and 
 local tradition, the places where James II., visiting 
 his mistress, lodged his guards. But Pepys, 
 under 23rd May, 1660, speaks of a " priest's hole " 
 in a Catholic house, where, for a good while, 
 Charles II. was obliged " to lie for his privacy."] 
 
 4 [Afterwards Lord Brouncker. He had ob- 
 tained, with Sir William Temple, a lease of the 
 Priory at West Sheen. Brouncker occupied the 
 mansion ; Temple, a house which he had long 
 rented.] 
 
 5 [Sir William Temple, 1628-99. He had 
 recently (1674) returned from the Hague, where 
 he had negotiated the marriage of William and 
 Mary. He had first settled at Sheen in 1663.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 188.] 
 
3^4 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1678 
 
 who has divers rare pictures, above all, 
 that of Sir Brian Tuke, by Holbein. 1 
 
 After dinner, I walked to Ham, to see 
 the house and garden of the Duke of 
 Lauderdale, which is indeed inferior to 
 few of the best villas in Italy itself ; 
 the house furnished like a great Pmnce's ; 
 the parterres, flower-gardens, orangeries, 
 groves, avenues, courts, statues, perspec- 
 tives, fountains, aviaries, and all this at 
 the banks of the sweetest river in the 
 world, must needs be admirable. 2 
 
 Hence, I went to my worthy friend, Sir 
 Henry Capel 3 [at Kew], brother to the 
 Earl of Essex ; it is an old timber-house ; 
 but his garden has the choicest fruit of any 
 plantation in England, as he is the most 
 industrious and understanding in it. 
 
 29th August. I was called to London 
 to wait upon the Duke of Norfolk, 
 who having at my sole request bestowed 
 the Arundelian Library on the Royal 
 Society, 4 sent to me to take charge of the 
 books, and remove them, only stipulating 
 that I would suffer the Herald's* chiefj 
 officer, Sir William Dugdale, 5 to have such 
 of them as concerned Heraldry and the 
 Marshal's office, books of Armory andi 
 Genealogies, the Duke being Earl Marshall 
 of England. I procured for our Society,! 
 besides printed books, near one hundred! 
 MSS., some in Greek of great concern- j 
 ment. The printed books being of the J 
 oldest impressions, are not the less valu- 1 
 able ; I esteem them almost equal to MSS. 
 Amongst them, are most of the Fathers, 
 
 1 [Sir Bryan Tuke, d. 1545, Treasurer of the 
 Household to Henry VIII. The Duke of West- 
 minster has a portrait of him by Holbein signed 
 " Brianus Tttke, Miles, Anno sEtatis sine, 
 LV[I." There is another in the Munich Pinako- 
 thek.] 
 
 2 [Ham House, Petersham, had passed in 1672 
 to John Maitland, second Earl and first Duke of 
 Lauderdale (see ante, p. 227), by his marriage 
 with Elizabeth, Countess of Dysart, who had in- 
 herited it from her father. There is an excellent 
 history of Ham House by Mrs. Charles Roundell, 
 1904.] 
 
 a [Afterwards Lord Capel of Tewkesbury, d. 
 1696. Kew House, now no longer existent, fronted 
 the present Kew Palace ; and was afterwards 
 occupied by George III., in whose day it was 
 known indifferently as the Queen's Lodge, Kew 
 Palace, the White House, and Kew Lodge. It 
 was pulled down in 1802 and subsequently (see 
 post, under 30th October, 1683, and 24th March, 
 1688).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 253.] 5 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 printed at Basle, before the Jesuits abused 
 
 them with their expurgatory Indexes ; 
 
 there is a noble MS. of Vitruvius. Many 
 
 of these books had been presented by 
 
 Popes, Cardinals, and great persons, to 
 
 the Earls of Arundel and the Dukes of 
 
 orfolk ; and the late magnificent Earl of 
 
 undel bought a noble library in Ger- 
 
 any, 1 which is in this collection. I 
 
 ould not, for the honour I bear the 
 
 mily, have persuaded the Duke to part 
 
 ith these, had I not seen how negligent 
 
 e was of them, suffering the priests and 
 
 verybody to carry away and dispose of 
 
 hat they pleased ; so that abundance of 
 
 rare things are irrecoverably gone. 
 
 Having taken order here, I went to the 
 
 f "Royal Society to give them an account of 
 what I had procured, that they might call 
 a Council and appoint a day to wait on the 
 Duke to thank him for this munificent gift. 
 yd September. I went to London, to 
 dine with Mrs. Godolphin, and found her 
 in labour ; she was brought to bed of a 
 son, who was baptized in the chamber, by 
 the name of Francis, the susceptors being 
 Sir William Godolphin (head of the family), 2 
 Mr. John Hervey, Treasurer to the Queen, 3 
 and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to Sir William 
 and the father. 
 
 St/i. Whilst I was at church came a 
 
 letter from Mr. Godolphin, that my dear 
 
 friend his lady was exceedingly ill, and 
 
 desiring my prayers and assistance. My 
 
 wife and I took boat immediately, and 
 
 Iwent to Whitehall, 4 where, to my inex- 
 
 jpressible sorrow, I found she had been 
 
 (attacked with a new fever, then reigning 
 
 this excessive hot autumn, and which was 
 
 so violent, that it was not thought she 
 
 could last many hours. 
 
 gt/i. She died in the 26th year of her 
 age, to the inexpressible affliction of her 
 dear husband, and all her relations, but of 
 none in the world more than myself, who 
 lost the most excellent and inestimable 
 friend that ever lived. Never was a more 
 virtuous and inviolable friendship ; never 
 a more religious, discreet, and admirable 
 creature, beloved of all, admired of all, for 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 253 «.] 
 
 2 [Sir William Godolphin, 1634-96 ; Ambassador 
 to Madrid, 1671-78 (seejbost, p. 315).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 188.] 
 *. [See ante, p. 306.] 
 
i6;8] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 115 
 
 all possible perfections of her sex. She is 
 gone to receive the reward of her signal 
 charity, and all other her Christian graces, 
 too blessed a creature to converse with 
 .mortals, fitted as she was, by a most holy 
 [ life, to be received into the mansions 
 above. She was for wit, beauty, good- 
 nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom- 
 plishments, the most incomparable person. 
 How shall I ever repay the obligations to 
 Iher for the infinite good offices she did my 
 Isoul by so often engaging me to make 
 Veligion the terms and tie of the friendship 
 there was between us ! She was the best 
 wife, the best mistress, the best friend, that 
 ever husband had. But it is not here that 
 I pretend to give her character, having 
 designed to consecrate her worthy life to 
 posterity.^ 
 
 Her husband, struck with unspeakable 
 affliction, fell down as dead. The King 
 himself, and all the Court, expressed their 
 sorrow. To the poor and miserable, her 
 loss was irreparable ; for there was no 
 degree but had some obligation to her 
 memory. So careful and provident was 
 she to be prepared for all possible acci- 
 dents, that (as if she foresaw her end) she 
 received the heavenly viaticum but the 
 Sunday before, after a most solemn recol- 
 lection. She put all her domestic concerns 
 into the exactest order, and left a letter 
 directed to her husband, to be opened in 
 case she died in child -bed, in which with 
 the most pathetic and endearing expres- 
 sions of a most loyal and virtuous wife, she 
 begs his kindness to her memory might be 
 continued by his care and esteem of those 
 she left behind, even to her domestic 
 servants, to the meanest of which she left 
 considerable legacies, as well as to the 
 poor. It was now seven years since she 
 was Maid of Honour to the Queen, that 
 she regarded me as a father, a brother, 
 and what is more, a friend. We often 
 prayed, visited the sick and miserable, 
 received, read, discoursed, and communi- 
 cated in all holy offices together. She was 
 most dear to my wife, and affectionate to 
 my children. But she is gone ! This only 
 is my comfort, that she is happy in Christ, 
 and I shall shortly behold her again. She 
 desired to be buried in the dormitory of his 
 family, near three hundred miles from all 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 266 «.] 
 
 her other friends. So afflicted was her 
 husband at this severe loss, that the entire 
 care of her funeral was committed to me. 
 Having closed the eyes, and dropped a 
 tear upon the cheek of my dear departed 
 friend, lovely even in death, I caused her 
 corpse to be embalmed and wrapped in 
 lead, a plate of brass soldered thereon, 
 with an inscription, and other circum- 
 stances due to her worth, with as much 
 diligence and care as my grieved heart 
 would permit me ; I then retired home for 
 two days, which were spent in solitude and 
 sad reflection. 
 
 ijth September. She was, accordingly, 
 carried to Godolphin, in Cornwall, in a 
 hearse with six horses, attended by two 
 coaches of as many, with about thirty of 
 her relations and servants. There accom- 
 panied the hearse her husband's brother, 
 Sir William, two more of his brothers, and 
 three sisters : her husband was so overcome 
 with grief, that, he was wholly unfit to 
 travel so long a journey, till he was more 
 composed. I went as far as Hounslow 
 with a sad heart ; but was obliged to 
 return upon some indispensable affairs. 
 The corpse was ordered to be taken out of 
 the hearse every night, and decently placed 
 in the house, with tapers about it, and her 
 servants attending, to Cornwall ; and then 
 was honourably interred in the parish 
 church of Godolphin. This funeral cost 
 not much less than ^1000. 
 
 With Mr. Godolphin, 1 I looked over 
 and sorted his lady's papers, most of which 
 consisted of Prayers, Meditations, Sermon- 
 notes, Discourses, and Collections on 
 several religious subjects, and many of her 
 own happy composing, and so pertinently 
 digested, as if she had been all her life a 
 student in divinity. We found a diary of 
 her solemn resolutions, tending to practical 
 virtue, with letters from select friends, all 
 put into exact method. It astonished us 
 to see what she had read and written, her 
 youth considered. 
 
 r ist October. The Parliament and the 
 whole nation were alarmed about a con- 
 
 1 Mr. Godolphin (afterwards Lord Godolphin) 
 continued the steady friend of Mr. Evelyn, whose 
 grandson, John Evelyn, married a daughter of 
 Godolphin's sister, Mrs. Boscawen (see ante, p. 
 314). Francis Godolphin, the infant now mentioned 
 as born, carried on through a long life the friendly 
 i family intercourse thus earnestly begun. 
 
3i6 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN £ VEL YN 
 
 [1678 
 
 spiracy of some eminent Papists for the 
 destruction of the King and introduction of 
 Popery, discovered by one Oates 1 and Dr. 
 Tonge, which last I ktzew, being the trans- 
 lator of the "Jesuits' Morals'" ;' 2 I went to 
 see and converse with him at Whitehall, 
 with Mr. Oates, one that was lately an 
 apostate to the church of Rome, and now 
 returned again with this discovery. He 
 seemed to be a bold man, and, in my 
 thoughts, furiously indiscreet ; but every- 
 
 1 [Titus Oates, 1649-1705. This infamous in- 
 former, after being expelled as a boy from Mer- 
 chant Taylors', became a clergyman. Losing his 
 living for perjury, he next entered the navy as a 
 chaplain, and was dismissed. Then — after holding 
 some subordinate post in the service of the Duke of 
 Norfolk — he "turned Roman" (1677), residing for 
 a time at the English Jesuit Colleges at Valladolid 
 and Saint Omer, from both of which institutions he 
 speedily received notice to quit. In 1678 he came 
 back to England with the alleged discovery of a 
 complicated Popish plot for the murder of the 
 King, the massacre of the Protestants, the invasion 
 of Ireland, and so forth. Unhappily, accidental 
 circumstances lent a certain colour to some of 
 these fabrications (see post, under 18th July, 1679).] 
 
 2 Israel Tonge was bred in University College, 
 Oxford, and being puritanically inclined, quitted 
 the University ; but in 1648 returned, and was 
 made a Fellow. He had the living of Pluckley, in 
 Kent, which he resigned in consequence of quarrels 
 with his parishioners and Quakers. In 1657, he 
 was made fellow of the newly-erected College at 
 Durham, and that being dissolved in 1659, he 
 taught school at Islington. He then went with 
 Colonel Edward Harley to Dunkirk, and subse- 
 quently took a small living in Herefordshire (Leint- 
 wardine) ; but quitted it for St. Mary Stayning, in 
 London, which, after the fire in 1666, was united to 
 St. Michael, Wood Street. These he held till his 
 death, in 1680. He was a great opponent of the 
 Roman Catholics. Wood mentions several pub- 
 lications of his, among which are, The Jesuits un- 
 masked, 1678 ; Jesuitical Aphorismes, 1679 '■> an d 
 Tlie Jesuits' Morals, 1680 (1670) ; the two latter 
 translated from the French (Wood's A then. Oxon. 
 vol. ii. p. 502). Evelyn speaks of the last of these 
 translations as having been executed by his desire : 
 and it figures in a notable passage of Oates's testi- 
 mony. Oates said, for example, "that Thomas 
 Whitbread, a priest, on 13th June, 16 . . did tell 
 the rector of St. Oiner's that a Minister of the 
 Church of England had scandalously put out the 
 Jesuits' Morals in English, and had endeavoured 
 to render them odious, and had asked the Rector 
 whether he thought Oates might know him ? and 
 the Rector called the deponent, who heard these 
 words as he stood at the chamber-door, and when 
 he went into the chamber of the Provincial, he 
 asked him ' If he knew the author of the Jesuits' 
 MoralsV deponent answered, 'His person, but 
 not his name.' Whitbread then demanded, whether 
 he would undertake to poison, or assassinate the 
 author; which deponent undertook, having ^50 
 reward promised him, and appointed to return to 
 England " {Brays Note slightly altered). 
 
 body believed what he said ; and it quite 
 changed the genius and motions of the 
 Parliament, growing now corrupt and 
 interested with long sitting and court prac- 
 tices ; but, with all this, Popery would not 
 go down. This discovery turned them all 
 as one man against it, and nothing was 
 done but to find out the depth of .this. 
 Oates was encouraged, and everything he 
 affirmed taken for gospel ;— the truth is, 
 the Roman Catholics were exceeding bold 
 and busy everywhere, since the Duke fore- 
 bore to go any longer to the chapel. 
 
 16th October. Mr. Godolphin requested 
 me to continue the trust his wife had reposed 
 in me, in behalf of his little son, conjuring 
 me to transfer the friendship I had for his 
 dear wife, on him and his. 
 
 21st. The murder of Sir Edmund Berry 
 Godfrey, found strangled about this time, 
 as was manifest, by the Papists, 1 he being 
 the Justice of the Peace, and one who 
 knew much of their practices, as conver- 
 sant with Coleman (a servant of the . . . . 2 
 now accused), put the whole nation into a 
 new ferment against them. 
 
 2,1 st. Being my [the?] 58th of my age, 
 required my humble addresses to Almighty 
 God, and that He would take off His heavy 
 hand, still on my family ; and restore com- 
 forts to us after the loss of my excellent 
 friend. 
 
 $th November. Dr. Tillotson 3 preached 
 before the Commons at St. Margaret's. 
 He said the Papists were now arrived at 
 that impudence, as to deny that there ever 
 
 1 [Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, 1621-78, was a 
 wood and coal dealer, and a well-known Justice of 
 the Peace for the County of Middlesex and the 
 City of Westminster. He had received the first 
 depositions of Oates and Tonge in September, and 
 communicated them to the Catholic Duke of York. 
 On the 17th October, he was found dead in a dry 
 ditch on the south side of Primrose Hill, his body, 
 it was affirmed, bearing marks of strangulation, 
 and his own sword being thrust through his heart. 
 But where he met his end, and how, is still to seek, 
 though three innocent men, Hill, Berry, and Green, 
 were hanged in February, 1679, f° r murdering him. 
 The subject is minutely discussed in Mr. John 
 Pollock's Popish Plot, 1903, pp. 83-166 ; and in 
 Mr. Andrew Lang's Valet's Tragedy and other 
 Studies, 1903, pp. 55 - 103. A later writer, Mr. 
 Alfred Marks {Who Killed Sir Edmund Berry 
 Godfrey? 1905), fortified by an expert medical 
 opinion, inclines (like Mr. Lang) to the theory of 
 suicide.] 
 
 3 [The Duke of York, whose secretary he was.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 263.] 
 
1679] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 317 
 
 was any such as the gunpowder-conspiracy ; 
 but he affirmed that he himself had several 
 letters written by Sir Everard Digby (one 
 of the traitors), 1 in which he gloried that 
 he was to suffer for it ; and that it was so 
 contrived, that of the Papists not above 
 two or three should have been blown up, 
 and they, such as were not worth saving. 
 
 i$t/i November. The Queen's birthday. 
 I never saw the Court more brave, nor the 
 nation in more apprehension and consterna- 
 tion. Coleman and one Staley 2 had now 
 been tried, condemned, and executed. On 
 this, Oates grew so presumptuous, as to 
 accuse the Queen of intending to poison the 
 King ; which certainly that pious and vir- 
 tuous lady abhorred the thoughts of, and 
 Oates's circumstances made it utterly un- 
 likely in my opinion. He probably thought 
 to gratify some who would have been glad 
 his Majesty should have married a fruitful 
 lady ; but the King was too kind a husband 
 to let any of these make impression on 
 him. 3 However, divers of the Popish peers 
 were sent to the Tower, accused by Oates ; 4 
 and all the Roman Catholic lords were by 
 a new Act 5 for ever excluded the Parlia- 
 ment ; which was a mighty blow. The 
 King's, Queen's, and Duke's servants, were 
 banished, and a test to be taken by every- 
 body who pretended to enjoy any office 
 of public trust, and who would not be 
 suspected of Popery. I went with Sir 
 William Godolphin, a member of the 
 Commons' House, to the Bishop of Ely 
 (Dr. Peter Gunning), 6 to be resolved 
 whether masses were idolatry, as the test 
 expressed it, which was so worded, that 
 several good Protestants scrupled, and Sir 
 William, though a learned man and excel- 
 lent divine himself, had some doubts about 
 it. The Bishop's opinion was, that he 
 
 1 [Sir Everard Digby — Sir Kenelm Digby's 
 father — executed in 1606 in connection with the 
 Gunpowder Plot.] 
 
 2 [Edward Coleman was executed 3rd December, 
 William Staley, 26th November. The former, 
 upon his own letters, was found "guilty of treason 
 in trying ' to subvert the Protestant religion as it 
 is by law established,' ' by the aid and assistance of 
 Foreign Powers'" (Trevelyan's England under 
 the Stuarts, 1904, p. 307).] 
 
 3 [See post, p. 320 «.] 
 
 4 [Lords Stafford, Petre, Arundel, Belasyse, and 
 the Earl of Powis.] 
 
 5 [30 Car. II. Stat. 2, c. 1.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 195.] 
 
 might take it, though he wished it had 
 been otherwise worded in the test. 
 
 1678-9 : 1 $th January. I went with my 
 Lady Sunderland to Chelsea, and dined 
 with the Countess of Bristol [her mother] 
 in the great house, formerly the Duke of 
 Buckingham's, a spacious and excellent 
 place for the extent of ground and situation 
 in a good air. 1 The house is large, but 
 ill contrived, though my Lord of Bristol, 
 who purchased it after he sold Wimbledon 
 to my Lord Treasurer, expended much 
 money on it. There were divers pictures 
 of Titian and Vandyck, and some of Bas- 
 sano, very excellent, especially an Adonis 
 and Venus, a Duke of Venice, a butcher 
 in his shambles selling meat to a Swiss ; 
 and of Vandyck, my Lord of Bristol's 
 picture, with the Earl of Bedford's at 
 length, in the same table. 2 There was in 
 the garden a rare collection of orange trees, 
 of which she was pleased to bestow some 
 upon me. 
 
 i6tk. I supped this night with Mr. 
 Secretary at one Mr. Houblon's, a French 
 merchant, 3 who had his house 4 furnished 
 en Prince, and gave us a splendid enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 1 This mansion stood at the north end of Beau- 
 fort Row, Chelsea, extending westward about 100 
 yards from the water-side. It was originally called 
 Buckingham House, after the Duke of Buckingham. 
 In January, 1682, Lord Bristol's widow sold it to 
 Henry Somerset, Marquis of Worcester, created 
 Duke of Beaufort in the same year ; after whom it 
 was known by the title of Beaufort House (see 
 post, 3rd September, 1683). It continued in the 
 possession of" this family till about 1738, when, 
 having stood empty for several years, it was pur- 
 chased by Sir Hans Sloane, and was pulled down 
 in 1740. 
 
 2 [This picture, of which there is a copy in 
 Heinemann's Great Masters, represents the second 
 Earl of Bristol (see ante, p. 216), and the first 
 Duke of Bedford (see ante, p. 262).] 
 
 3 [This was James Houblon, d. 1700, son of 
 James Houblon, 1592-1682. He was knighted by 
 William III. in 1691, and was M.P. for the city of 
 London, 1698-1700, and an original director of the 
 Bank of England. His brother, John (1632-1712), 
 was also knighted by William III. in 1689, and 
 was the first Governor of the Bank of England, 
 1694-97. There are three other brothers whom 
 Pepys mentions, 5th February, 1666. " Mighty fine 
 gentlemen they are all," he says, "and used me 
 mighty respectfully." It was through Pepys that 
 Evelyn made acquaintance with James Houblon 
 {The Houblon Family, etc.. by Lady Alice Archer 
 Houblon, 1907, i. pp. 216-7 an d 359)- See also 
 post, under 16th March, 1683, and 5th October, 
 
 1685.] 
 
 4 In Winchester Street, City. 
 
3i8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1679 
 
 2^th January. The Long Parliament, 
 which had sat ever since the Restora- 
 tion, was dissolved by persuasion of the 
 Lord Treasurer, though divers of them 
 were believed to be his pensioner. At 
 this, all the politicians were at a stand, 
 they being very eager in pursuit of the 
 late plot of the Papists. 
 
 Tpth. Dr. Cudworth 2 preached before 
 the King at Whitehall, on 2 Timothy iii. 
 5, reckoning up the perils of the last times, 
 in which, amongst other wickedness, 
 treasons should be one of the greatest, 
 applying it to the occasion, as committed 
 under a form of reformation and godli- 
 ness ; concluding that the prophecy did 
 intend more particularly the present age, 
 as one of the last times ; the sins there 
 enumerated, more abundantly reigning 
 than ever. 
 
 2nd February. Dr. Durel, 2 Dean of 
 Windsor, preached to the household at 
 Whitehall, on 1 Cor. xvi. 22 ; he read the 
 whole sermon out of his notes, which I 
 had never before seen a Frenchman do, he 
 being of Jersey, and bred at Paris. 
 
 afli. Dr. Pierce, Dean of Salisbury, 3 
 preached on 1 John iv. 1, " Try the Spirits, 
 there being so many delusory ones gone 
 forth of late into the world " ; he in- 
 veighed against the pernicious doctrines of 
 Mr. Hobbes. 
 
 My brother Evelyn, 4 was now chosen 
 Knight for the County of Surrey, carrying 
 it against my Lord Longford 5 and Sir 
 Adam Browne, of Betch worth Castle. 6 
 The country coming in to give him their 
 suffrages were so many, that I believe they 
 eat and drank him out near ^"2000, by a 
 most abominable custom. 
 
 1st April. My friend, Mr. Godolphin, 
 was now made one of the Lords Commis- 
 sioners of the Treasury, and of the Privy 
 Council. 
 
 Ofth. The Bishop of Gloucester 7 preached 
 in a manner very like Bishop Andrews, full 
 of divisions, and scholastical, and that with 
 
 1 [Dr. Ralph Cudworth, 1617-88.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 154.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 192.] 
 
 4 [I.e. George Evelyn of Wotton.] 
 ~> [See ante, p. 3T 2.] 
 
 6 [See post, under February, 1703. It was his 
 daughter, Mrs. Fenwick, who sold Betchworth 
 Castle to Abraham Tucker (see ante, p. 184).] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 303.] 
 
 much quickness. The holy Communion 
 followed. 
 
 20th. Easter-day. Our vicar preached 
 exceedingly well on 1 Cor. v. 7. The 
 holy Communion followed, at which I and 
 my daughter Mary (now about fourteen 
 years old) received for the first time 
 [sic]. The Lord Jesus continue His 
 grace unto her, and improve this blessed 
 beginning ! 
 
 24//*. The Duke of York, voted against 
 by the Commons for his recusancy, went 
 over to Flanders ; l which made much 
 discourse. 
 
 jtAfth June. I dined with Mr. Pepys in 
 ^ne Tower, he having been committed by 
 the House of Commons for misdemeanours 
 in the Admiralty when he was Secretary ; 
 I believe he was unjustly charged.' 2 { 
 Here I saluted my Lords Stafford and 
 Petre, who were committed for the Popish / 
 plot. 3 
 
 Jth. I saw the magnificent calvalcade 
 and entry of the Portugal ambassador. 4 
 • 'd^ljtk. I was godfather to a son of Sir 
 ''Christopher Wren, surveyor of his Majesty's 
 buildings, that most excellent and learned 
 person, with Sir William Fermor, 5 and my 
 Lady Viscountess Newport, wife of the 
 Treasurer of the Household. 6 
 
 Thence to Chelsea, to Sir Stephen Fox, 7 
 and my lady, in order to the purchase 
 of the Countess of Bristol's house there, 
 which she desired me to procure a chap- 
 man for. 
 
 1 [He went abroad immediately before the open- 
 ing of Parliament on 6th March, and returned 
 after its dissolution in July (see post, under 13th 
 September, 1679).] 
 
 2 [Pepys had resigned his first secretaryship to 
 the Admiralty on the 17th May. His favour with 
 the Duke of York, and a previous, and groundless, 
 charge of Popish proclivities, had rendered him 
 suspect. He was preposterously accused, on the 
 evidence of a Colonel Scott, of communicating 
 Navy secrets to France for the purpose of over- 
 throwing the English Government, and establish- 
 ing Catholicism. As a result he was sent to the 
 Tower, 22nd May, 1679. After several examina- 
 tions he was released on bail ; and ultimately 
 acquitted, because Scott had refused at the last 
 moment to stand by his lying stories (Pepys's Diary, 
 by G. Gregory Smith, 1905, xx.). See post, p. 319-] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 317 «.] 
 
 4 [Don Emanuel de Lyra (see ante, p. 312).] 
 
 5 [Sir William Fermor, d. 1711, afterwards Baron 
 Leominster, 1692.] 
 
 6 {I.e. Mountjoy Blount, 1597 -1666, Earl of 
 Newport.] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 246.] 
 
I679J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 119 
 
 iqt/ijune. I dined at Sir Robert Clay- 
 ton's 1 with Sir Robert Viner, 2 the great 
 banker. 
 
 22nd. There were now divers Jesuits 
 executed about the plot, 3 and a rebellion 
 in Scotland of the fanatics, so that there 
 was a sad prospect of public affairs. 
 
 25//*. The new Commissioners of the 
 Admiralty came to visit me, viz. Sir Henry 
 Capel, 4 brother to the Earl of Essex, Mr. 
 Finch, eldest son to the Lord Chancellor, 5 
 Sir Humphry Winch, Sir Thomas Meeres, 6 
 Mr. Hales, with some of the Commissioners 
 of the Navy. I went with them to London. 
 
 1st July. I dined at Sir William Godol- 
 phin's, and with that learned gentleman 
 went to take the air in Hyde' Park, wher 
 was a glorious cortege. 
 
 yd. Sending a piece of venison to Mr. 
 Pepys, still a prisoner, I went and dined 
 with him. 7 
 
 6tk. Now were there papers, speeches, 
 and libels, publicly cried in the streets 
 against the Dukes of York and Lauder- 
 dale, etc., obnoxious to the Parliament, 
 with too much and indeed too shameful a 
 liberty ; but the people and Parliament had 
 gotten head by reason of the vices of the 
 great ones. 
 
 There was now brought up to London a 
 child, son of one Mr. Wotton, 8 formerly 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 307.] 
 
 - Sir Robert Viner, 1631-88, a very genial and 
 wealthy banker, whom Pepys (7th September, 1665) 
 describes as living in great state at Swakeley 
 House, Ickenham, Middlesex, which he had bought 
 from Sir James Harrington. [It belonged in 1876 
 to T. Truesdale Clarke, Esq.] When Lord Mayor, 
 in 1674, Viner entertained Charles II. at Guildhall ; 
 and on his Majesty retiring, urged him to "return 
 and take t'other bottle " (Steele, in Spectator, No. 
 462). He was created a Baronet in 1666. The 
 crown was indebted to Sir Robert Viner, at the 
 shutting of the Exchequer (see ante, p. 284), nearly 
 half a million of money, for which he was awarded 
 ^5,000 : g : 4 per annum, out of the excise. 
 
 3 [" Whitbread and Fenwick and three other 
 Jesuits are condemned, June 13, and Langhorne, 
 a lawyer, June 14. They suffer June 20, and 
 eight priests are executed in different parts of the 
 country" {Annals of England, 1876, p. 477).] 
 
 ■* [See ante, p. 314.] 
 
 5 [Heneage Hnch, 1647-1719, afterwards Earl of 
 Aylesford.] 
 
 fi [See ante, p. 305]. 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 318.] 
 
 8 The Rev. Henry Wotton, minister of Wren- 
 tham, in Suffolk. This son was afterwards the 
 celebrated William Wotton, 1666-1726, the friend 
 and defender of Dr. Bentley, and the antagonist 
 of Sir William Temple, in the controversy about 
 
 amanuensis to Dr. Andrews, Bishop of 
 Winton, who both read and perfectly vA 
 understood Plebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabic, I* 
 Syriac, and most of the modern languages ; 
 disputed in divinity, law, and all the 
 sciences ; was skilful in history, both eccle- 
 siastical and profane ; in politics ; in a 
 word, so universally and solidly learned at 
 eleven years of age, that he was looked on 
 as a miracle. Dr. Lloyd, one of the most 
 deep learned divines of this nation in all 
 sorts of literature, with Dr. Burnet, who 
 had severely examined him, came away 
 astonished, and they told me they did not 
 believe there had the like appeared in the 
 world. He had only been instructed by 
 his father, who being himself a learned 
 person, confessed that his son knew all 
 that he himself knew. But, what was 
 more admirable than his vast memory, 
 was his judgment and invention, he being 
 tried with divers hard questions, which 
 required maturity of thought and experi- 
 ence. He was also dexterous in chrono- 
 logy* antiquities, mathematics. In sum, 
 an intellect 'us universalis, beyond all that 
 we read of Picus Mirandola, and other pre- 
 cocious wits, and yet withal a very humble 
 child. 
 
 l/\th. I went to see how things stood 
 at Parson's Green, my Lady Viscountess 
 
 Ancient and Modern Learning. Sir Philip Skip- 
 pon, who lived at Wrentham, in Suffolk, in a letter 
 to Mr. John Ray, Sept. 18, 1671, writes: "I shall 
 somewhat surprise you with what I have seen in a 
 little boy, William Wotton, five years old last 
 month, son of Mr. Wotton, minister of this parish, 
 who hath instructed his child within the last three- 
 quarters of a year in the reading the Latin, Greek, 
 and Hebrew languages, which he can read almost 
 as well as English, and that tongue he could read 
 at four years and three months old, as well as most 
 lads of twice his age." — He was admitted of 
 Catherine Hall, Cambridge, April, 1676, and took 
 the degree of B.A. in 1679, when only twelve years 
 and five months old. Dr. Burnet recommended 
 him to Dr. Lloyd, Bishop of St. Asaph, who took 
 him as an assistant in making a catalogue of his 
 books, and gave him in 1691 the sinecure of Llan- 
 drill-yn-Rhos, in Denbighshire. He was subse- 
 quently Rector of Middleton Keynes, and 
 Prebendary of Salisbury. Swift laughed at him, 
 but this he drew upon himself by having attacked 
 the Tale of a Tub. He published, as is well 
 known, an answer to that satire. He also com- 
 piled Memoirs of the Cathedral Churches of St. 
 David and St Asaph, which Browne Willis pub- 
 lished. When very young, he remembered almost 
 the whole of any discourse he had heard, and on a 
 certain occasion he repeated to Bishop Lloyd one of 
 his own sermons. 
 
320 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1679 
 
 a 
 
 Mordaunt 1 (now sick in Paris, whither she 
 went for health) having made me a trustee 
 for her children, an office I could not refuse 
 to this most excellent, pious, and virtuous 
 lady, my long acquaintance. 
 
 1 5M July. I dined with Mr. wSidney 
 Godolphin, now one of the Lords Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. 2 
 
 \Zth. I went early to the old Bailey 
 Sessions-house to the famous trial of Sir 
 George Wakeham, 3 one of the Queen's 
 physicians, and three Benedictine monks ; 4 
 the first (whom I was well acquainted with, 
 and take to be a worthy gentleman abhor- 
 ring such a fact) for intending to poison the 
 King ; the others as accomplices to carry 
 on the plot, to subvert the Government, 
 and introduce Popery. The Bench was 
 crowded with the Judges, Lord Mayor, 
 Justices, and innumerable spectators. The 
 chief accusers, Dr. Oates (as he called 
 himself), and one Bedloe, 5 a man of inferior 
 note. Their testimonies were not so pre- 
 gnant, and I fear much of it from hearsay, 
 but swearing positively to some particulars, 
 which drew suspicion upon their truth ; nor 
 did circumstances so agree, as to give either 
 the Bench, or Jury, so entire satisfaction as 
 was expected. After, therefore, a long 
 and tedious trial of nine hours, the Jury 
 brought them in not guilty, to the extra- 
 ordinary triumph of the Papists, and with- 
 out sufficient disadvantage and reflections 
 on witnesses, especially Oates and Bedloe. 
 
 This was a happy day for the Lords in 
 the Tower, who expecting their trial, had 
 this gone against the prisoners at the bar, 
 would all have been in the utmost hazard. 
 For my part, I look on Oates as a vain, 
 insolent man, puffed up with the favour of 
 the Commons for having discovered some- 
 thing really true, 6 more especially as detect- 
 ing the dangerous intrigue of Coleman, 
 proved out of his own letters, 7 and of a 
 
 l [See ante, p. 307.] 2 [See ante, p. 318.] 
 
 '■'• [Sir George Wakeman, fl. 1668-85, was a 
 Roman Catholic. He was accused by Titus Oates 
 of conspiring with Catherine of Braganza to poison 
 Charles II. But even Charles refused to believe 
 this monstrous accusation (see ante, p. 317).] 
 
 - 1 William Marshal, William Rumley, and James 
 Corker (see State Trials, fol. ii. p. 918). 
 
 5 [William Bedloe, 1650-80, the accomplice of 
 Oates. ] 
 
 t> [Some truth there was, but dash'd and brew'd 
 with lies. 
 
 Dryden, Absalom and Achitophel, Pt. i.] 
 
 ' [See ante, p. 317.] 
 
 general design which the Jesuited party of 
 the Papists ever had and still have, to ruin 
 the Church of England ; but that he was 
 trusted with those great secrets he pre- 
 tended, or had any solid ground for what 
 he accused divers noblemen of, I have 
 many reasons to induce my contrary belief. 
 That among so many commissions as he 
 affirmed to have delivered to them from P. 
 Oliva 1 and the Pope, — he who made no 
 scruple of opening all other papers, letters, 
 and secrets, should not only not open any 
 of those pretended commissions, but not so 
 much as take any copy or witness of any 
 one of them, is almost miraculous. But 
 the Commons (some leading persons I 
 mean of them) had so exalted him, that 
 they took all he said for Gospel, and with- 
 out more ado ruined all whom he named 
 to* be conspirators ; nor did he spare who- 
 ever came in his way. But indeed the 
 murder of Sir Edmund [Berry] Godfrey, 2 
 suspected to have been compassed by the 
 Jesuists' party for his intimacy with Cole- 
 man (a busy person whom I also knew), 
 and the fear they had that he was able to 
 have discovered things to their prejudice, 
 did so exasperate not only the Commons 
 but all the nation, that much of these 
 sharpnesses against the more honest Roman 
 Catholics who lived peaceably, is to be 
 imputed to that horrid fact. 
 
 The sessions ended, I dined or rather 
 supped (so late it was) with the Judges 3 in 
 the large room annexed to the place, and 
 so returned home. Though it was not my 
 custom or delight to be often present at 
 any capital trials, we having them com- 
 monly so exactly published by those who 
 take them in short-hand, yet I was inclined 
 to be at this signal one, that by the ocular 
 view of the carriages and other circum- 
 stances of the managers and parties con- 
 cerned, I might inform myself, and regulate 
 my opinion of a cause that had so alarmed 
 the whole nation. 
 
 22.nd July. Dined at Clapham, at Sir 
 D. Gauden's ; 4 went thence with him to 
 
 1 Padre Oliva, General of the Order of Jesuits. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 316.] 
 
 3 The Judges were, Lord Chief Justice North, 
 Mr. Justice Atkins, Mr. Justice Windham, Mr. 
 Justice Pemberton, and Mr. Justice Dolben. 
 
 4 [Sir Denis Gauden had built this house for his 
 brother, Dr. John Gauden, Bishop of Exeter, who 
 claimed to have written Eikon Basilike. Sir Denis 
 
I679J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 321 
 
 Windsor, to assist him in a business with 
 his Majesty. I lay that night at Eton Col- 
 lege, the Provost's lodgings (Dr. Cradock), 1 
 where I was courteously entertained. 
 
 2.yd July. To Court : after dinner, I 
 visited that excellent painter, Verrio, 2 whose 
 works in fresco in the King's palace, at 
 Windsor, will celebrate his name as long as 
 those walls last. He showed us his pretty 
 garden, choice flowers, and curiosities, he 
 himself being a skilful gardener. 
 
 I went to Cliveden, that stupendous 
 natural rock, wood, and prospect, of the 
 Duke of Buckingham's, 3 and buildings of 
 extraordinary expense. The grots in the 
 chalky rocks are pretty : it is a romantic 
 object, and the place altogether answers 
 the most poetical description that can be 
 made of solitude, precipice, prospect, or 
 whatever can contribute to a thing so very 
 like their imaginations. The stand, some- 
 what like Frascati as to its front, and on the 
 platform is a circular view to the utmost verge 
 of the horizon, which, with the serpenting of 
 the Thames, is admirable. The staircase is 
 for its materials singular ; the cloisters, 
 descents, gardens, and avenue through the 
 wood, august and stately ; but the land all 
 about wretchedly barren, and producing 
 nothing but fern. Indeed, as I told his 
 Majesty that evening (asking me how I liked 
 Cliveden) without flattery, that it did not 
 please me so well as Windsor for the prospect 
 and park, which is without compare ; there 
 being but one only opening, and that narrow, 
 which led one to any variety, whereas that of 
 Windsor is everywhere great and unconfined. 
 
 Returning, I called at my cousin Eve- 
 lyn's, 4 who has a very pretty seat in the 
 
 afterwards occupied it himself, dying there in 1688. 
 The house (now pulled down) was subsequently 
 occupied by Pepys's friend and clerk, Will. Hewer 
 (szejbost, under 25th July, 1692).] 
 
 1 [Dr. Zachary Cradock, 1633-95 ; Provost of 
 Eton, 1681-95.] 
 
 2 [Antonio Verrio, 1639-1707. His "sprawling 
 Saints" also decorate Hampton Court, and many 
 noblemen's seats.] 
 
 3 Cliveden's proud alcove, 
 The bow'r of wanton Shrewsbury and love. 
 
 Pope, Moral Essays, iii. 307. 
 
 [The present building, erected by the Duke of 
 Sutherland, and long a seat of the Duke of West- 
 minster, now belongs to William Waldorf Astor, Esq. 
 1 1 has been enriched by many relics from the famous 
 Villa Borghese (see ante, pp. 72 and 1C7).] 
 
 4 [William Evelyn, son of George Evelvn of 
 Nutfield.] 
 
 forest, two miles by hither Cliveden, on a 
 flat, with gardens exquisitely kept, though 
 large, and the house a staunch good old 
 building, and what was singular, some of 
 the rooms floored dove-tail-wise without a 
 nail, exactly close. One of the closets is 
 parqueted with plain deal, set in diamond, 
 exceeding staunch and pretty. 
 
 ytk August. Dined at the Sheriffs', 
 when, the Company of Drapers and their 
 wives being invited, there was a sumptuous 
 entertainment, according to the forms of 
 the City, with music, etc., comparable to 
 any Prince's service in Europe. 
 
 8tk. I went this morning to show my 
 Lord Chamberlain, his Lady, and the 
 Duchess of Grafton, the incomparable work 
 of Mr. Gibbons, the carver, 1 whom I first 
 recommended to his Majesty, his house 
 being furnished like a cabinet, not only 
 with his own work, but divers excellent 
 paintings of the best hands. Thence, to 
 Sir Stephen Fox's, 2 where we spent the 
 day. 
 
 31st. After evening service, to see a 
 neighbour, one Mr. Bohun, 3 related to my 
 son's late tutor of that name, a rich Spanish 
 merchant, living in a neat place, which he. 
 has adorned with many curiosities, especi- 
 ally several carvings of Mr. Gibbons, and 
 some pictures by Streater. 
 
 13M September. To Windsor, to con- 
 gratulate his Majesty on his recovery ; 4 I 
 kissed the Duke's hand,, now lately re- 
 turned from Flanders 6 to visit his brother 
 the King, on which there were various 
 bold and foolish discourses, the Duke o£" 
 Monmouth being sent away. 
 
 19M. My Lord Sunderland, one of the 
 principal Secretaries of State, invited me 
 to dinner, where was the King's natural 
 son, the Earl of Plymouth, the Earl of 
 Shrewsbury, Earl of Essex, Earl of Mul- 
 grave, Mr. Hyde, and Mr. Godolphin. 
 After dinner, I went to prayers at Eton ? 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 274.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 246.] 
 
 3 [Of Lee in Kent (see £ost, under 30th July, 
 1682).] 
 
 4 [Charles was dangerously ill, 22nd August, 
 1679, and James was summoned back from Brussels 
 by Halifax, Essex, and Sunderland. He returned 
 and travelled to Windsor in disguise, only to find 
 his brother cheerful and convalescent (Trevelyan's 
 England under t/ie Stuarts, 1904, p. 407).] 
 
 fi He returned the day before, the 12th of 
 September. 
 
322 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 C1679 
 
 and visited Mr. Henry Godoiphin, 1 fellow 
 there, and Dr. Cradock. 2 
 
 25M September. Mr. Slingsby and Signor 
 Verrio came to dine with me, to whom I gave 
 China oranges off my own trees, as good, I 
 think, as were ever eaten. 
 
 6th October. A very wet and sickly 
 season. 
 
 23rd. Dined at my Lord .Chamber- 
 lain's, the King being now newly returned 
 from his Newmarket recreations. 
 
 4th November. Dined at the Lord 
 Mayor's ; 3 and, in the evening, went to 
 the funeral of my pious, dear, and ancient 
 learned friend, Dr. Jasper Needham, 4 who 
 was buried at St. Bride's church. He 
 was a true and holy Christian, and one 
 who loved me with great affection. Dr. 
 Dove 5 preached with an eulogy due to his 
 memory. I lost in this person one of my 
 dearest remaining sincere friends. 
 
 5M. I was invited to dine at my Lord 
 Teviotdale's, 6 a Scotch Earl, a learned 
 and knowing nobleman. We afterwards 
 went to see Mr. Montague's new palace 
 near Bloomsbury, built by our curator, 
 Mr. Hooke, somewhat after the French ; 
 it was most nobly furnished, and a fine, but 
 too much exposed garden. 7 
 
 6th. Dined at the Countess of Sunder- 
 land's, and was this evening at the re- 
 marriage of the Duchess of Grafton to the 
 Duke (his Majesty's natural son), she being 
 now twelve years old. 8 The ceremony 
 was performed in my Lord Chamberlain's 
 (her father's) lodgings at Whitehall by the 
 Bishop of Rochester, 9 his Majesty being 
 present. A sudden and unexpected thing, 
 when everybody believed the first marriage 
 would have come to nothing : but, the 
 measure being determined, I was privately 
 invited by my Lady, her mother, to be 
 present. I confess I could give her little 
 joy, and so I plainly told her, but she said 
 the King would have it so, and there was 
 no going back. This sweetest, hopefullest, 
 
 1 [Sidney Godolphin's brother, 1648-1733. He 
 was afterwards Provost of Eton, and Dean of St. 
 Paul's.] 2 [See ante, p. 321.] 
 
 3 [Sir Robert Clayton's.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 192.] 
 
 5 [Set post, under 25th January, 1685.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 229.] 
 
 7 See ante, p. 304 ; and post, under 10th October, 
 1683. 8 [See ante, p. 287.] 
 
 9 [Dr. John Dolben.] 
 
 most beautiful child, and most virtuous 
 too, was sacrificed to a boy that had been 
 rudely bred, without anything to encourage 
 them but his Majesty's pleasure. I pray 
 God the sweet child find it to her advan- 
 tage, who, if my augury deceive me not, 
 will in few years be such a paragon as 
 were fit to make the wife of the greatest 
 Prince in Europe ! I staid supper, where 
 his Majesty sat between the Duchess of 
 Cleveland (the mother of the Duke of 
 Grafton) and the sweet Duchess the bride ; 
 there were several great persons and ladies, 
 without pomp. My love to my Lord 
 Arlington's family and the sweet child 
 made me behold all this with regret, 
 though as the Duke of Grafton affects the 
 sea, to which I find his father intends to 
 use him, 1 he may emerge a plain, useful 
 and robust officer ; and, were he polished, 
 a tolerable person ; for he is exceeding 
 handsome, by far surpassing any of the 
 King's other natural issue. 
 
 Sth. At Sir Stephen Fox's, and was 
 agreeing for the Countess of Bristol's house 
 at Chelsea, within £s°°- 2 
 
 lSth. I dined at my Lord Mayor's, 3 
 being desired by the Countess of Sunder- 
 land to carry her thither on a solemn day, 
 that she might see the pomp and ceremony 
 of this Prince of Citizens, there never 
 having been any, who for the stateliness 
 of his palace, prodigious feasting, and 
 magnificence, exceeded him. This Lord 
 Mayor's acquaintance had been from the 
 time of his being apprentice to one Mr. 
 Abbot, his uncle, who being a scrivener, 
 and an honest worthy man, one who was 
 condemned to die at the beginning of the 
 troubles forty years past, as concerned in 
 the commission of array for King Charles 
 I. , had escaped with his life ; I often used 
 his assistance in money-matters. Robert 
 Clayton, then a boy, his nephew, became, 
 after his uncle Abbot's death, so pro- 
 digiously rich and opulent, that he was 
 reckoned one of the wealthiest citizens. 
 He married a free-hearted woman, who 
 became his hospitable disposition ; and, 
 having no children, with the accession of 
 his partner and fellow-apprentice, 4 who 
 
 1 [He was afterwards distinguished as a sailor 
 and a soldier.] 2 [See ante, p. 317.] 
 
 3 Sir Robert Clayton (see ante, p. 192 ; and p. 
 310). 4 Mr. Morris. 
 
I679J 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 323 
 
 also left him his estate, he grew excessively 
 rich. He was a discreet magistrate, and 
 though envied, I think without much 
 cause. Some believed him guilty of hard 
 dealing, especially with the Duke of 
 Buckingham, much of whose estate he had 
 swallowed, but I never saw any ill by him, 
 considering the trade he was of. The 
 reputation and known integrity of his 
 uncle, Abbot, brought all the royal party 
 to him, by which he got not only great 
 credit, but vast wealth, so as he passed 
 this office with infinite magnificence and 
 honour. 
 
 2.0th November. I dined with Mr. 
 Slingsby, Master of the Mint, 1 with my 
 wife, invited to hear music, which was 
 exquisitely performed by four of the most 
 renowned masters : Du Prue, a French- 
 man, on the lute ; Signor Bartholomeo, an 
 Italian, on the harpsichord ; Nicholao on 
 the violin; 2 but, above all, for its sweet- 
 ness and novelty, the viol d } amore of five 
 wire strings played on with a bow, being 
 but an ordinary violin, played on lyre- 
 way, by a German. There was also a 
 flute dotice, now in much request for 
 accompanying the voice. Mr. Slingsby, 
 whose son and daughter played skilfully, 
 had these meetings frequently in his 
 house. 
 
 21st. I dined at my Lord Mayor's to 
 accompany my worthiest and generous 
 friend, the Earl of Ossory ; it was on a 
 Friday, a private day, but the feast and 
 entertainment might have become a King. 
 Such an hospitable costume and splendid 
 magistrature does no city in the world 
 show, as I believe. 
 
 2yd. Dr. Allestree 3 preached before 
 the household on St. Luke xi. 2 ; Dr. 
 Lloyd 4 on Matt, xxiii. 20, before the 
 King, showing with how little reason 
 the Papists applied those words of our 
 blessed Saviour to maintain the pretended 
 infallibility they boast of. I never heard 
 a more Christian and excellent discourse ; 
 yet were some offended that he seemed to 
 say the Church of Rome was a true 
 church ; but it was a captious mistake ; 
 for he never affirmed anything that could 
 be more to their reproach, and that such 
 was the present Church of Rome, showing 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 223.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 208.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 297.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 304.] 
 
 how much it had erred. There was not in 
 this sermon so much as a shadow for cen- 
 sure, no person of all the clergy having 
 testified greater zeal against the errors 
 of the Papists than this pious and most 
 learned person. I dined at the Bishop of 
 Rochester's, and then went to St. Paul's, 
 to hear that great wit, Dr. Sprat, 1 now 
 newly succeeding Dr. Outram, in the cure 
 of St. Margaret's. His talent was a great 
 memory, never making use of notes, a 
 readiness of expression in a most pure and 
 plain style of words, full of matter, easily 
 delivered. 
 
 26th. I met the Earl of Clarendon with 
 the rest of my fellow-executors of the will 
 of my late Lady Viscountess Mordaunt, 2 
 namely, Mr Laurence Hyde, 3 one of the 
 Commissioners of the Treasury, and lately 
 Plenipotentiary Ambassador at Nimeguen ; 
 AndrewNewport ; and Sir CharlesWheeler; 
 to examine and audit and dispose of this 
 year's account of the estate of this excel- 
 lent Lady, according to the direction of 
 her Will. 
 
 27th. I went to see Sir John Stone- 
 house, with whom I was treating a marriage 
 between my son and his daughter-in-law. 4 
 
 2%th. Came over the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth from Holland unexpectedly to his 
 Majesty ; whilst the Duke of York was on 
 his journey to Scotland, whither the King 
 sent him to reside and govern. 5 The bells 
 and bonfires of the City at this arrival of 
 the Duke of Monmouth publishing their 
 joy, to the no small regret of some at 
 Court. This Duke, whom for distinction 
 they called the Protestant Duke (though 
 the son of an abandoned woman), the 
 people made their idol. 
 
 /\th Decembei'. I dined, together with 
 Lord Ossory and the Earl of Chesterfield, 
 at the Portugal Ambassador's, now newly 
 come, at Cleveland House, 6 a noble palace, 
 
 too good for that infamous The 
 
 staircase is sumptuous, and the gallery 
 and garden ; but, above all, the costly 
 furniture belonging to the Ambassador, ' 
 especially the rich Japan cabinets, of which 
 I think there were a dozen. There was a 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 267.] 2 [See ante, p. 307.] 
 
 3 [Laurence Hyde, 1641-1711, afterwards first 
 Earl of Rochester. ] 
 
 4 [Martha Spencer (see infra, p. 324).] 
 
 5 [As Lord High Commissioner, He went in 
 September.] 6 [See ante, p. 253.] 
 
324 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1680 
 
 billiard-table, with as many more hazards 
 as ours commonly have ; the game being 
 only to prosecute the ball till hazarded, 
 without passing the port, or touching the 
 pin ; if one miss hitting the ball every 
 time, the game is lost, or if hazarded. It 
 is more difficult to hazard a ball, though 
 so many, than in our table, by reason the 
 bound is made so exactly even, and the 
 edges not stuffed ; the balls are also bigger, 
 and they for the most part use the sharp 
 and small end of the billiard-stick, which 
 is shod with brass, or silver. The enter- 
 tainment was exceeding civil ; but, 
 besides a good olio, 1 the dishes were 
 trifling, hashed and condited after their 
 way, not at all fit for an English stomach, 
 which is for solid meat. There was yet 
 j£ood fowls, but roasted to coal, nor were 
 the sweetmeats good. 
 
 30M December. I went to meet Sir John 
 Stonehouse, and give him a particular of the 
 settlement on my son, who now made his 
 addresses to the young lady his daughter- 
 in-law, daughter of Lady Stonehouse. 
 
 1679-80 : 25M January. Dr. Cave, 
 author of Primitive Christianity, etc., a 
 pious and learned man, 2 preached at White- 
 hall to the household, on James hi. 17, 
 concerning the duty of grace and charity. 
 
 30M. I supped with Sir Stephen Fox, 
 now made one of the Lords Commissioners 
 of the Treasury. 
 
 lgth February. The writings for the 
 settling jointure and other contracts of 
 marriage of my son were finished and 
 sealed. The lady was to bring ^5000, in 
 consideration of a settlement of ^500 a-year 
 present maintenance, which was likewise 
 to be her jointure, and ^500 a-year after 
 mine and my wife's decease. But, with 
 God's blessing, it will be at the least ^1000 
 a-year more in a few years. I pray God 
 make him worthy of it, and a comfort to 
 his excellent mother, who deserves much 
 from him ! 
 
 2.1st. Shrove Tuesday. My son was 
 married to Mrs. Martha Spencer, daughter 
 to my Lady Stonehouse by a former 
 gentleman, at St. Andrew's, Holborn, by 
 
 1 [Olio, Spanish olla podrida or olla, a hotch- 
 pot of meat and vegetables.] 
 
 2 Dr. William Cave, 1637-1713, Vicar of Islington, 
 author also of Lives of the Apostles and Martyrs, 
 and Historia Liter aria. 
 
 our Vicar, borrowing the church of Dr. 
 Stillingfleet, Dean of St. Paul's, the present 
 incumbent. We afterwards dined at a 
 house in Holborn ; and, after the solemnity 
 and dancing was done, they were bedded 
 at Sir John Stonehouse's lodgings in Bow 
 Street, Covent Garden. 
 
 26th. To the Royal Society, where I 
 met an Irish Bishop with his Lady, 1 who 
 was daughter to my worthy and pious 
 friend, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, late Bishop of 
 Down and Connor ; they came to see the 
 Repository. She seemed to be a knowing 
 woman, beyond the ordinary talent of her 
 sex. 
 
 yd March. I dined at my Lord Mayor's, 
 in order to the meeting of my Lady Beck- 
 ford, whose daughter (a rich heiress) I had 
 recommended to my brother of Wotton 
 for his only son, 2 she being the daughter 
 of the lady by Mr. Eversfield, a Sussex 
 gentleman. 
 
 16th. To London, to receive ^3000 of 
 my daughter-in-law's portion, which was 
 paid in gold. 
 
 26th. The Dean of Sarum 8 preached 
 on Jerem. xlv. 5, an hour and a half from 
 his commonplace book, of kings and great 
 men retiring to private situations. Scarce 
 anything of Scripture in it. 
 
 iSth April. On the earnest invitation 
 of the Earl of Essex, I went with him to 
 his house at Cashiobury, in Hertfordshire. 4 
 It was on Sunday, but going early from 
 his house in the square of St. James, 5 we 
 arrived by ten o'clock ; this he thought too 
 late to go to church, and we had prayers 
 in his chapel. The house is new, a plain 
 fabric, built by my friend, Mr. Hugh May. 
 There are divers fair and good rooms, and 
 excellent carving by Gibbons, especially 
 
 1 [Francis Marsh, 1627-93, at this date Bishop of 
 Kilmore and Ardagh, and eventually Archbishop 
 of Dublin. His wife was Jeremy Taylor's second 
 daughter, Mary. Taylor died in 1667.] 
 
 2 [John Evelyn of Wotton, d. 1691, aged thirty- 
 eight (see post, under 10th February, j68i).] 
 
 3 [Dr. Thomas Pierce, see ante, p. 192.] 
 
 4 [Cassiobury (or Cashiobury) Park, near Wat- 
 ford, Herts, still the seat of the Essex family. 
 Hugh May's house, visited by Evelyn, was erected 
 by Arthur Capel, first Earl of Sussex, 1631-83, after 
 his return from Ireland in 1677. It was pulled 
 down in 1800 ; and a new Gothic mansion, from 
 the designs of James Wyatt, erected in its place. 
 There is a sumptuous volume by John Britton on 
 Cassiobury.] 
 
 5 [On the north side of the Square.) 
 
i68o] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 325 
 
 the chimney-piece of the library. There is in 
 the porch, or entrance, a painting by Verrio, 
 of Apollo and the Liberal Arts. One room 
 parqueted with yew, which I liked well. 
 Some of the chimney mantels are of Irish 
 marble, brought by my Lord from Ireland, 
 when he was Lord-Lieutenant, 1 and not 
 much inferior to Italian. The tympanum, 
 or gable, at the front is a basso-relievo 
 of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone, 
 handsomely enough. I do not approve of 
 the middle doors being round ; but, when 
 the hall is finished, as designed, it being an 
 oval with a cupola, together with the other 
 wing, it will be a very noble palace. The 
 library is large, and very nobly furnished, 
 and all the books are richly bound and 
 gilded ; but there are no MSS. , except the 
 Parliament Rolls and Journals, the trans- 
 cribing and binding of which cost him, as 
 he assured me, ^500. 
 
 No man has been more industrious than 
 this noble Lord in planting about his seat, 
 adorned with walks, ponds, and other 
 rural elegancies ; but the soil is stony, 
 churlish, and uneven, nor is the water near 
 enough to the house, though a very swift 
 and clear stream runs within a flight-shot 
 from it in the valley, which may fitly be 
 called Coldbrook, it being indeed excessive 
 cold, yet producing fair trouts. It is pity 
 the house was not situated to more advan- 
 tage : but it seems it was built just where 
 the old one was, which I believe he only 
 meant to repair ; this leads men into 
 irremediable errors, and saves but a little. 
 
 The land about is exceedingly addicted 
 to wood, but the coldness of the place 
 hinders the growth. Black cherry trees 
 prosper even to considerable timber, some 
 being eighty feet long ; they make also 
 very handsome avenues. There is a pretty 
 oval at the end of a fair walk, set about 
 with treble rows of Spanish chestnut trees. 
 
 The gardens are very rare, and cannot 
 be otherwise, having so skilful an artist to 
 govern them as Mr. Cook,- who is, as to 
 the mechanic part, not ignorant in mathe- 
 matics, and pretends to astrology. There 
 is an excellent collection of the choicest 
 fruit. 
 
 1 [1672-77.] 
 
 2 [Moses Cook, author, like Evelyn, of a book on 
 Forest Trees, 1675. He planted the park, and laid 
 out the gardens.] 
 
 As for my Lord, he is a sober, wise, 
 judicious, and pondering person, not 
 illiterate beyond the rate of most noble- 
 men in this age, very well versed in 
 English History and affairs, industrious, 
 frugal, methodical, and every way accom- 
 plished. His Lady 1 (being sister of the 
 late Earl of Northumberland) is a wise, 
 yet somewhat melancholy woman, setting 
 her heart too much on the little lady, her 
 daughter, of whom she is over fond. They 
 have a hopeful son at the Academy. 2 
 
 My Lord was not long since come from 
 his Lord- Lieutenancy of Ireland, where he 
 showed his abilities in administration and 
 government, as well as prudence in con- 
 siderably augmenting his estate without 
 reproach. He had been Ambassador Ex- 
 traordinary in Denmark, and, in a word, 
 such a person as became the son of that 
 worthy hero his father to be, the late Lord 
 Capel, who lost his life for King Charles I. 3 
 
 We spent our time in the mornings in 
 walking, or riding, and contriving [altera- 
 tions], and the afternoons in the library, so 
 as I passed my time for three or four days 
 with much satisfaction. He was pleased 
 in conversation to impart to me divers 
 particulars of state, relating to the present 
 times. He being no great friend to the 
 
 D 4 was now laid aside, his integrity 
 
 and abilities being not so suitable in this 
 conjuncture. — 2\st. I returned to London. 
 
 30th April. To a meeting of the executors 
 of late Viscountess Mordaunt's estate, to 
 consider of the sale of Parson's Green, 
 being in treaty with Mr. Loftus, and to 
 settle the half-year's account. 5 
 
 1st May. Was a meeting of the feoffees 
 of the poor of our parish. This year I 
 would stand one of the collectors of their, 
 rents, to give example to others. My son 
 was added to the feoffees. 
 
 This afternoon came to visit me Sir 
 Edward Deering, of Surrendon, in Kent, 
 one of the Lords of the Treasury, with his 
 
 1 [Elizabeth, daughter of Algernon Percy, tenth 
 Earl of Northumberland, and sister of Josceline, 
 eleventh Earl, who died in 1670. Her daughter, 
 Anne, eventually married Charles, third Earl of 
 Carlisle.] 
 
 2 [Algernon Capel, d. 1710, afterwards second 
 Earl, and Constable of the Tower under Anne. ] 
 
 3 [Arthur Capel, first Baron Capel of Hadham 
 (see ante, p. 147)] 
 
 4 [Duke of York.] 5 [See ante, p. 307.] 
 
326 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1680 
 
 daughter, married to my worthy friend, Sir 
 Robert Southwell, Clerk of the Council, 
 now Extraordinary Envoy to the Duke 
 of Brandenburg, and other Princes in 
 Germany, as before he had been in 
 Portugal, being a sober, wise, and virtuous 
 gentleman. 
 
 13M May. I was at the funeral of old Mr. 
 Shish, master-shipwright of his Majesty's 
 Yard here, an honest and remarkable man, 
 and his death a public loss, for his excellent 
 success in building ships 1 (though altogether 
 illiterate), and for breeding up so many of 
 his children to be able artists. 2 I held up 
 the pall with three knights, who did him 
 that honour, and he was worthy of it. It 
 was the custom of this good man to rise in 
 the night, and to pray, kneeling in his own 
 coffin, which he had lying by him for many 
 years. He was born that famous year, 
 the Gunpowder-plot, 1605. 
 
 14//* June. Came to dine with us the 
 Countess of Clarendon, 3 Dr. Lloyd, Dean 
 of Bangor (since Bishop of St. Asaph), 4 
 Dr. Burnet, author of the History of the 
 Reformation, and my old friend, Mr. 
 Henshaw. After dinner, we all went to see 
 the Observatory, and Mr. Flamsteed, 5 who 
 showed us divers rare instruments, especially 
 the great quadrant. 
 
 2$th July. Went with my wife and 
 daughter to Windsor, to see that stately 
 court, now near finished. There was 
 erected in the court the King on horseback, 
 lately cast in copper, and set on a rich 
 pedestal of white marble, the work of Mr. 
 Gibbons, 6 at the expense of Toby Rustat, 7 
 a page of the back stairs, who by his 
 wonderful frugality had arrived to a great 
 estate in money, and did many works of 
 charity, as well as this of gratitude to his 
 master, which cost him ^1000. He is a 
 very simple, ignorant, but honest and loyal 
 creature. 
 
 1 He built the Charles (see ante, p. 261).] 
 
 2 [Two of his sons were master-shipwrights, and 
 are buried at Deptford.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 208.] 
 
 4 [Dr. William Lloyd, 1627-1717, at this date 
 Bishop of St. Asaph (see /<?.$•/, p. 402).] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 306.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 274.] 
 
 7 Tobias Rustat, 1606-94, Yeoman of the Robes 
 to Charles II., 1650-85. He was a great benefactor 
 to Jesus College, Cambridge ; in particular by an 
 endowment of scholarships there for the benefit of 
 young students, orphan sons of clergymen. 
 
 We all dined at the Countess of Sunder- 
 land's, afterwards to see Signor Verrio's 
 garden, 1 thence to Eton College, to salute 
 the Provost, 2 and heard a Latin speech of 
 one of the alumni (it being at the election) 
 and were invited to supper ; but took our 
 leave, and got to London that night in 
 good time. 
 
 26th. My most noble and illustrious 
 friend, the Earl of Ossory, 3 espying me 
 this morning after sermon in the privy 
 gallery, calling to me, told me, he was now 
 going his journey (meaning to Tangier, 
 whither he was designed Governor, and 
 General of the forces, to regain the losses 
 we had lately sustained from the Moors, 
 when Inchjquin was Governor). 4 I asked 
 if he would not call at my house (as he 
 always did whenever he went out of 
 England on any exploit). He said he 
 must embark at Portsmouth, ' ' wherefore 
 let you and I dine together to-day ; I am 
 quite alone, and have something to impart 
 to you ; I am not well, shall be private, 
 and desire your company." 
 
 Being retired to his lodgings, and set 
 down on a couch, he sent to his secretary 
 for the copy of a letter which he had written 
 to Lord Sunderland (Secretary of State), 
 wishing me to read it ; it was to take 
 notice how ill he resented it, that he should 
 tell the King before Lord Ossory's face, 
 that Tangier was not to be kept, 5 but 
 would certainly be lost, and yet added that 
 it was fit Lord Ossory should be sent, that 
 they might give some account of it to the 
 world, meaning (as supposed) the next 
 Parliament, when all such miscarriages 
 would probably be examined ; this Lord 
 Ossory took very ill of Lord Sunderland, 
 and not kindly of the King, who resolving 
 to send him with an incompetent force, 
 seemed, as his Lordship took it, to be 
 willing to cast him away, not only on a 
 hazardous adventure, but in most men's 
 opinion, an impossibility, seeing there was 
 not to be above 300 or 400 horse, and 4000 
 foot for the garrison and all, both to defend 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 322.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Cradock (see ante, p. 321.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 153.] 
 
 4 [William O'Brien, second Earl of Inchiquin, 
 1638-02 ; Governor of Tangier, 1674-80.] 
 
 * [ Tangier had been part of the dowry of Catherine 
 of Braganza. It was abandoned in 1683 and the 
 works blown up.] 
 
i68o] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL I TV 
 
 327 
 
 the town, form a camp, repulse the enemy, 
 and fortify what ground they should get in. 
 This touched my Lord deeply, that he 
 should be so little considered as to put him 
 on a business in which he should probably 
 not only lose his reputation, but be charged 
 with all the miscarriage and ill success ; 
 whereas, at first they promised 6000 foot 
 and 600 horse effective. 
 
 My Lord, being an exceeding brave and 
 valiant person, and who had so approved 
 himself in clivers signal battles, both at sea 
 and land ; so beloved and so esteemed by 
 the people, as one they depended on, upon 
 all occasions worthy of such a captain ; — he 
 looked on this as too great an indifference 
 in his Majesty, after all his services, and 
 the merits of his father, the Duke of 
 Ormonde, and a design of some who 
 envied his virtue. It certainly took so 
 deep root in his mind, that he who was the 
 most void of fear in the world (and assured 
 me he would go to Tangier with ten men 
 if his Majesty commanded him) could not 
 bear up against this unkindness. Having 
 disburdened himself of this to me after 
 dinner, he went with his Majesty to the 
 Sheriffs' at a great supper in Fishmongers' 
 Hall ; but, finding himself ill, took his 
 leave immediately of his Majesty, and came 
 back to his lodging. Not resting well this 
 night, he was persuaded to remove to 
 Arlington House, for better accommoda- 
 tion. His disorder turned to a malignant 
 fever, which increasing, after all that six of 
 the most able physicians could do, he 
 became delirious, with intervals of sense, 
 during which Dr. Lloyd (after Bishop of 
 St. Asaph) administered the Holy Sacra- 
 ment, of which I also participated. He 
 died the Friday following, the 30th July, 
 to the universal grief of all that knew or 
 heard of his great worth, nor had any a 
 greater loss than myself. Oft would he say 
 I was the oldest acquaintance he had in 
 England (when his father was in Ireland), 
 it being now of about thirty years, con- 
 tracted abroad, when he rode in the 
 Academy in Paris, and when we were 
 seldom asunder. 1 
 
 His Majesty never lost a worthier sub- 
 ject, nor father a better or more dutiful 
 son ; a loving, generous, good - natured, 
 and perfectly obliging friend ; one who 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 153.] 
 
 had done innumerable kindnesses to several 
 before they knew it ; nor did he ever 
 advance any that were not worthy : no 
 one more brave, more modest ; none more 
 humble, sober, and every way virtuous. 
 Unhappy England in this illustrious 
 person's loss! Universal was the mourn- 
 ing for him, and the eulogies on him ; I 
 staid night and day by his bedside to his 
 last gasp, to close his dear eyes ! O sad 
 father, mother, wife, and children ! What 
 shall I add? He deserved all that a 
 sincere friend, a brave soldier, a virtuous 
 courtier, a loyal subject, an honest man, a 
 bountiful master, and good Christian, could 
 deserve of his, prince and country. One 
 thing more let me note, that he often ex- 
 pressed to me the abhorrence he had of 
 that base and unworthy action which he 
 was put upon, of engaging the Smyrna 
 fleet 1 in time of peace, in which though he 
 behaved himself like a great captain, yet 
 he told me it was the only blot in his life 
 and troubled him exceedingly. Though 
 he was commanded, and never examined 
 further when he was so, yet he always 
 spake of it with regret and detestation. 
 The Countess was at the seat of her 
 daughter, the Countess of Derby, about 
 200 miles off. 2 
 
 30M August. I went to visit a French 
 gentleman, one Monsieur Chardin, 3 who 
 having been thrice in the East Indies, 
 Persia, and other remote countries, came 
 hither in our return-ships from those parts, 
 and it being reported that he was a very 
 curious and knowing man, I was desired 
 by the Royal Society to salute him in their 
 name, and to invite him to honour them 
 with his company. Sir Joseph Hoskins 4 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 2 [She was the eldest daughter of Henry de 
 Nassau, Lord of Auverquerque ; and her own 
 eldest daughter had married William Richard, 
 ninth Earl of Derby.] 
 
 3 [Afterwards Sir John, 1643-1712. Though a 
 foreigner, he was knighted by Charles II. in 168 1. 
 He was a jewel merchant, and an enterprising 
 traveller in Persia and the East^his accounts of 
 which, 1671-1711, are still valuable. He died and 
 was buried at Chiswick ; but he has a memorial in 
 Westminster Abbey. Bolton House, Turnham 
 Green, where he lived, was pulled down about 
 1880. His name is, however, perpetuated in 
 Chardin Road(Phillimore and Whitear s Chiswick, 
 1897, pp. 157. 172, 274).] 
 
 4 [John Hoskins, 1634-1705 ; President of the 
 Royal Society, 1682-83. He was not knighted at 
 this date.] 
 
328 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1680 
 
 and Sir Christopher Wren accompanied 
 me. We found him at his lodgings in his 
 Eastern habit, a very handsome person, 
 extremely affable, a modest, well - bred 
 man, not inclined to talk wonders. He 
 spake Latin, and understood Greek, 
 Arabic, and Persian, from eleven years' 
 travels in those parts, whither he went in 
 search of jewels, and was become very 
 rich. He seemed about 36 years of age. 
 After the usual civilities, we asked some 
 account of the extraordinary things he must 
 have seen in travelling over land to those 
 places where few, if any, northern 
 Europeans used to go, as the Black and 
 Caspian Sea, Mingrelia, Bagdad, Nineveh, 
 Persepolis, etc. He told us that the 
 things most worthy of our sight would be, 
 the draughts he had caused to be made of 
 some noble ruins, etc. ; for that, besides 
 his own little talent that way, he had 
 carried two good painters with him, to 
 draw landscapes, measure and design the 
 remains of the palace which Alexander 
 burnt in his frolic at Persepolis, with 
 divers temples, columns, rilievos, and 
 statues, yet extant, which he affirmed to 
 be sculpture far exceeding anything he had 
 observed either at Rome, in Greece, or in 
 any other part of the world where magni- 
 ficence was in estimation. He said there 
 was an inscription in letters not intelligible, 
 though entire. He was sorry he could 
 not gratify the curiosity of the Society at 
 present, his things not being yet out of the 
 ship ; but would wait on them with them 
 on his return from Paris, whither he was 
 going the next day, but with intention to 
 return suddenly, and stay longer here, the 
 persecution in France not suffering Pro- 
 testants, and he was one, to be quiet. 
 
 He told us that Nineveh was a vast city, 
 now all buried in her ruins, the inhabitants 
 building on the subterranean vaults, which 
 were, as appeared, the first stories of the 
 old city ; 1 that there were frequently found 
 huge vases of fine earth, columns, and 
 other antiquities ; that the straw which 
 the Egyptians required of the Israelites, 
 was not to burn, or cover the rows of 
 bricks as we use, but being chopped small 
 to mingle with the clay, which being dried 
 in the sun (for they bake not in the fur- 
 naces) would else clave asunder ; that in 
 1 See ante, p. 294. 
 
 Persia are yet a race of IgnicolcE, who 
 worship the sun and the fire as Gods ; that 
 the women of Georgia and Mingrelia were 
 universally, and without any compare, the 
 most beautiful creatures for shape, features, 
 and figure, in the world, and therefore the 
 Grand Seignor and Bashaws had had from 
 thence most of their wives and concubines ; 
 that there had within these hundred years 
 been Amazons amongst them, that is to 
 say, a sort or race of valiant women, given 
 to war ; that Persia was extremely fertile ; 
 he spoke also of Japan and China, and 
 of the many great errors of our late 
 geographers, as we suggested matter for 
 discourse. We then took our leaves, fail- 
 ing of seeing his papers ; but it was told us 
 by others that indeed he durst not open, 
 or show them, till he had first showed 
 them to the French King ; but of this he 
 himself said nothing. 
 
 2nd September. I had an opportunity, 
 his Majesty being still at Windsor, of 
 seeing his private library at Whitehall, at 
 my full ease. I went with expectation of 
 finding some curiosities, but though there 
 were about 1000 volumes, there were few 
 of importance which I had not perused 
 before. They consisted chiefly of such 
 books as had from time to time been 
 dedicated, or presented to him ; a few 
 histories, some Travels and French books, 
 abundance of maps and sea charts, enter- 
 tainments and pomps, buildings and pieces 
 relating to the Navy, some ^mathematical 
 instruments ; but what was most rare, 
 were three or four Romish breviaries, with 
 a great deal of miniature and monkish 
 painting and gilding, one of which is most 
 exquisitely done, both as to the figures, 
 grotesques, and compartments, to the 
 utmost of that curious art. There is another 
 in which I find written by the hand of King 
 Henry VII., his giving it to his dear 
 daughter, Margaret, afterwards Queen of 
 Scots, in which he desires her to pray for 
 his soul, subscribing his name at length. 
 There is also the process of the philo- 
 sophers' great elixir, represented in divers 
 pieces of excellent miniature, but the dis- 
 course is in high Dutch, a MS. There is 
 another MS. in quarto, of above 300 years 
 old, in French, being an institution of 
 physic, and in the botanical part the plants 
 are curiously painted in miniature ; also a 
 
i68o] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 29 
 
 folio MS. of good thickness, being the 
 several exercises, as Themes, Orations, 
 Translations, etc., of King Edward VI., 
 all written and subscribed by his own 
 hand, and with his name very legible, 
 and divers of the Greek interleaved and 
 corrected after the manner of schoolboys' 
 exercises, and that exceedingly well and 
 proper ; with some epistles to his preceptor, 
 which show that young Prince to have 
 been extraordinarily advanced in learning, 
 and as Cardan, who had been in England, 
 affirmed, stupendously knowing for his 
 age. There is likewise his Journal, 1 no 
 less testifying his early ripeness and care 
 about the affairs of state. 
 
 There are besides many pompous 
 volumes, some embossed with gold, and 
 intaglios on agates, medals, etc. I spent 
 three or four entire days, locked up, and 
 alone, among these books and curiosities. 
 In the rest of the private lodgings con- 
 tiguous to this, are divers of the best 
 pictures of the great masters, Raphael, 
 Titian, etc., and, in my esteem, above all, 
 the Noli me tangere of our Blessed Saviour 
 to Mary Magdalen after his Resurrection, 
 of Hans Holbein ; than which I never saw 
 so much reverence and kind of heavenly 
 astonishment expressed in a picture. 
 
 There are also divers curious clocks, 
 watches, and pendules of exquisite work, 
 and other curiosities. An ancient woman 
 who made these lodgings clean, and had 
 all the keys, let me in at pleasure for a 
 small reward, by means of a friend. 
 
 6th Septe?nber. I dined with Sir Stephen 
 Fox, 2 now one of the Lords Commissioners 
 of the Treasury. This gentleman came 
 first a poor boy from the choir of Salisbury, 
 then he was taken notice of by Bishop 
 Duppa, and afterwards waited on my Lord 
 Percy (brother to Algernon Earl of North- 
 umberland), who procured for him an 
 inferior place amongst the Clerks of the 
 Kitchen and Green-Cloth side, where he 
 was found so humble, diligent, industrious, 
 and prudent in his behaviour, that his 
 Majesty being in exile, and Mr. Fox wait- 
 ing, both the King and Lords about him 
 frequently employed him about their affairs, 
 and trusted him both with receiving and 
 
 1 Several extracts from this journal are made by 
 Burnet in his History of the Reformation. 
 
 2 [See ante, 246.] 
 
 paying the little money they had. Return- 
 ing with his Majesty to England, after 
 great wants and great sufferings, his 
 Majesty found him so honest and indus- 
 trious, and withal so capable and ready, that 
 being advanced from Clerk of the Kitchen 
 to that of the Green -Cloth, he procured 
 to be Paymaster to the whole Army, and 
 by his dexterity and punctual dealing he 
 obtained such credit among the bankers, 
 that he was in a short time able to borrow 
 vast sums of them upon any exigence. 
 The continual turning thus of money, and 
 the soldiers' moderate allowance to him 
 for keeping touch with them, did so enrich 
 him, that he is believed to be worth at 
 least ,£200,000, honestly got and unenvied ; 
 which is next to a miracle. With all this 
 he continues as humble and ready to do a 
 courtesy as ever he was. 
 
 He is generous, and lives very honour- 
 ably, of a sweet nature, well spoken, well 
 bred, and is so highly in his Majesty's 
 esteem, and so useful, that being long 
 since made a knight, he is also advanced 
 to be one of the Lords Commissioners of 
 the Treasury, and has the reversion of the 
 Cofferer's place after Harry Brouncker. 
 He has married his eldest daughter to my 
 Lord Cornwallis, and gave her ^12,000, 
 and restored that entangled family besides. 
 He matched his son to Mrs. Trollop, who 
 brings with her (besides a great sum) near, 
 if not altogether, ^"2000 per annum. Sir 
 Stephen's lady (an excellent woman) is 
 sister to Mr. Whittle, one of the King's 
 chirurgeons. In a word, never was man 
 more fortunate than Sir Stephen ; he is 
 a handsome person, virtuous, and very 
 religious. 
 
 >2yd. Came to my house some German 
 strangers and Signor Pietro, a famous 
 musician, who had been long in Sweden 
 in Queen Christina's Court ; ] he sung 
 
 1 [Christina, Queen of Sweden, 1626-89, 
 daughter of Gustavus Adolphus. She had abdi- 
 cated in June, 1654, ar, d at this date was leading 
 an eccentric life at Rome. Edward Browne 
 writes thus of her in January, 1665 : " I was the 
 other night at the Queene of Sweden's, shee is low 
 and fat, a little crooked ; goes commonly with a 
 velvet coat, cravat, and man's perruke ; shee is 
 continually merry, hath a free carriage with her, 
 talks and laughs with all strangers, whom she 
 entertains, once in a weake, with musick, and now 
 this carnivall every other night with comedies " 
 (Sir T. Browne's Works, 1836, i. 86).] 
 
33° 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1680 
 
 admirably to a guitar, and had a per- 
 fect good tenor and base, and had set to 
 Italian composure many of Abraham 
 Cowley's pieces which showed extremely 
 well. He told me that in Sweden the heat 
 in some part of summer was as excessive 
 as the cold in winter ; so cold, he affirmed, 
 that the streets of all the towns are desolate, 
 no creatures stirring in them for many 
 months, all the inhabitants retiring to their 
 stoves. He spake high things of that 
 romantic Queen's learning and skill in 
 languages, the majesty of her behaviour, 
 her exceeding wit, and that the histories 
 she had read of other countries, especially 
 of Italy and Rome, had made her despise 
 her own. That the real occasion of her 
 resigning her crown was the noblemen's 
 importuning her to marry, and the promise 
 which the Pope had made her of procuring 
 her to be Queen of Naples, which also 
 caused her to change her religion ; but she 
 was cheated by his crafty Holiness, 1 work- 
 ing on her ambition ; that the reason of 
 her killing her secretary at Fontainebleau, 2 
 was, his revealing that intrigue with the 
 Pope. But, after all this, I rather believe 
 it was her mad prodigality and extreme 
 vanity, which had consumed those vast 
 treasures the great Adolphus, her father, 
 had brought out of Germany during his 
 [campaigns] there and wonderful successes; 
 and that, if she had not voluntarily re- 
 signed, as foreseeing the event, the Estates 
 of her kingdom would have compelled her 
 to do so. 
 
 ipth October. I went to London to be 
 
 ^\^ private, my birthday being the next day, 
 and I now arrived at my sixtieth year ; on 
 which I began a more solemn survey of my 
 
 "* whole life, in order to the making and con- 
 firming my peace with God, by an accurate 
 scrutiny of all my actions past, as far as I 
 was able to call them to mind. How 
 difficult and uncertain, yet how necessary 
 a work I The Lord be merciful to me, 
 and accept me ! Who can tell how oft 
 he offendeth? Teach me, therefore, so to 
 
 1 Pope Alexander VII., of the family of Chigi, 
 at Siena. 
 
 2 [The Marquis Monaldeschi, her Chamberlain 
 and quondam favourite. In 1657, she subjected 
 him to a mock trial for high treason ; and then 
 had him assassinated by three men in the Galerie 
 des Cerfs, under the eyes of a priest for whom she 
 had previously sent to confess him.] 
 
 number my days, that I may apply 
 my heart unto wisdom, and make my 
 calling and election sure. Amen, Lord 
 Jesus ! 
 
 3 1 st. I spent this whole day in exercises. 
 A stranger preached at Whitehall 1 on 
 Luke xvi. 30, 31. I then went to St. 
 Martin's, where the Bishop of St. Asaph 2 
 preached on 1 Peter hi. 15 ; the holy 
 Communion followed, at which I partici- 
 pated, humbly imploring God's assistance 
 in the great work I was entering into. In 
 the afternoon I heard Dr. Sprat, at St. 
 Margaret's, on Acts xvii. II. 
 
 I began and spent the whole week in 
 examining my life, begging pardon for my 
 faults, assistance and blessing for the future, 
 that I might, in some sort, be prepared for 
 the time that now drew near, and not have 
 the great work to begin, when one can 
 work no longer. The Lord Jesus help 
 and assist me ! I therefore stirred little 
 abroad till the 5th November, when I 
 heard Dr. Tenison, 3 the now vicar of St. 
 Martin's ; Dr. Lloyd, the former incumbent, 
 being made Bishop of St. Asaph. 
 
 *]th November. I participated of the 
 Blessed Communion, finishing and confirm- 
 ing my resolutions of giving myself up more 
 entirely to God, to whom I had now most 
 solemnly devoted the rest of the poor re- 
 mainder of life in this world ; the Lord 
 enabling me, who am an unprofitable 
 servant, a miserable sinner, yet depending 
 on his infinite goodness and mercy accept- 
 ing my endeavours. 
 
 1 5M. Came to dine with us Sir Richard 
 Anderson, 4 his lady, son, and wife, sister to 
 my daughter-in-law. 
 
 30M. The anniversary election at the 
 Royal Society brought me to London, 
 where was chosen President that excellent 
 person and great philosopher, Mr. Robert 
 Boyle, 5 who indeed ought to have been the 
 very first ; but neither his infirmity nor 
 his modesty could now any longer excuse 
 him. I desired I might for this year be left 
 out of the Council, by reason my dwelling 
 
 1 Probably to the King's household, very early in 
 the morning, as the custom was. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 326.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Thomas Tenison, 1636-1715, at this date 
 Rector of St. Martin's -in -the -Fields, eventually 
 Archbishop of Canterbury.] 
 
 4 [Of Pendley (seefost, under 16th May, 1683).] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
i68o] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 33i 
 
 was in the country. The Society, accord- 
 ing to custom, dined together. 
 
 This signal day begun the trial (at which 
 I was present) of my Lord Viscount Stafford, 1 
 for conspiring the death of the King ; second 
 [fifth?] son to my Lord Thomas Howard 
 Earl of Arundel and Surrey, 2 Earl Marshal 
 of England, and grandfather to the present 
 Duke of Norfolk, 3 whom I so well knew, 
 and from which excellent person I received 
 so many favours. 4 It was likewise his 
 birthday. 5 The trial was in Westminster 
 Hall, 6 before the King, Lords, and 
 Commons ; just in the same manner as, 
 forty years past, 7 the great and wise Earl 
 of Strafford (there being but one letter 
 differing their names) received his trial for 
 pretended ill government in Ireland, in the 
 very same place, this Lord Stafford's father 
 being then High- Steward. 8 The place of 
 sitting was now exalted some considerable 
 height from the paved floor of the Hall, 
 with a stage of boards. The throne, 
 woolpacks for the Judges, long forms for 
 the Peers, chair for the Lord Steward, 
 exactly ranged, as in the House of Lords. 
 The sides on both hands scaffolded to the 
 very roof for the members of the House of 
 Commons. At the upper end, and on the 
 right side of the King's state, was a box 
 for his Majesty, and on the left, others for 
 the great ladies, and overhead a gallery 
 for ambassadors and public ministers. At 
 the lower end, or entrance, was a bar, and 
 place for the prisoner, the Lieutenant of 
 the Tower of London, the axe-bearer and 
 guards, my Lord Stafford's two daughters, 
 the Marchioness of Winchester 9 being one ; 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 317. He was the oldest of the five 
 prisoners in the Tower (see p. 270), being sixty -six ; 
 and, according to Reresby, was selected because he 
 was deemed weaker than the other lords, . . . and 
 so less able to make his defence " (Memoirs, 1875, 
 
 p. 194)-] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 9.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 
 4 [Evelyn here means the aforesaid Lord Thomas 
 Howard.] 
 
 5 Lord Stafford was born 30th November, 1614.] 
 
 6 ["'To the shortening the promenade of the 
 lawyers and the severe oppression of the shops,' 
 which ordinarily occupied its floor " (Trevelyan's 
 England under the Stuarts, 1904, p. 413).] 
 
 7 [In 1641 (see ante, p. 9).] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 9.] 
 
 9 [Widow and third wife of John, fifth Marquess 
 of Winchester (d. 1675), who held Basing House for 
 Charles I. against the Parliamentarians till it was 
 burned down.] 
 
 there was likewise a box for my Lord to 
 retire into. At the right hand, in another 
 box, somewhat higher, stood the witnesses ; 
 at the left, the managers, in the name of 
 the Commons of England, namely, Serjeant 
 Maynard (the great lawyer, the same who 
 prosecuted the cause against the Earl of 
 Strafford forty years before, being now near 
 eighty years of age), 1 Sir William Jones, 
 late Attorney- General, Sir Francis Winning- 
 ton, a famous pleader, and Mr. Treby, now 
 Recorder of London, 2 not appearing in 
 their gowns as lawyers, but in their cloaks 
 and swords, as representing the Commons 
 of England : to these were joined Mr. 
 Hampden, 3 Dr. Sacheverell, 4 Mr. Poule, 
 Colonel Titus, Sir Thomas Lee, all gentle- 
 men of quality, and noted parliamentary 
 men. The two first days, in which were 
 read the commission and impeachment, 
 were but a tedious entrance into matter of 
 fact, at which I was but little present. 
 But, on Thursday, I was commodiously 
 seated amongst the Commons, when the 
 witnesses were sworn and examined. The 
 principal witnesses were Mr. Oates (who 
 called himself Dr.), Mr. Dugdale, 5 and 
 Turberville. 6 Oates swore that he de- 
 livered a commission to Viscount Stafford 
 from the Pope, to be Paymaster -General 
 to an army intended to be raised ; — Dugdale, 
 that being at Lord Aston's, the prisoner dealt 
 with him plainly to murder his Majesty ; 
 and Turberville, that at Paris he also pro- 
 posed the same to him. 7 
 
 yd December. The depositions of my 
 Lord's witnesses were taken, to invalidate 
 the King's witnesses ; they were very slight 
 persons, but, being fifteen or sixteen, they 
 
 1 [Sir John Maynard, 1602-90.] 
 
 2 George Treby, 1644 -1700, afterwards Chief 
 Justice of the Common Pleas, and knighted in 1681. 
 He was also member of Parliament for Plympton, 
 in Devonshire, where he was born. , 
 
 3 [John Hampden, 1656-96, grandson of John 
 Hampden.] 
 
 4 [William Sacheverell, 1638-91, the politician. 
 He was not "Dr."] 
 
 5 [Stephen Dugdale, 1640-83, the informer, Lord 
 Aston's steward.] 
 
 6 [Edward Turberville, the informer, 1648-81.] 
 
 7 ["They seemed so positive in this and other 
 dangerous evidence," says Reresby, " that myself 
 that sat and heard most of the trial knew not what 
 to believe, had the evidence been men of any credit ; 
 but such incoherences, and indeed contradictions in 
 my judgment, appeared towards the latter end of 
 the trial, that for my own part I was satisfied at last 
 of its untruth " (Memoirs, 1875, p. 194).] 
 
332 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1680 
 
 took up all that day, and in truth they rather 
 did my Lord injury than service. 
 
 Afth December. Came other witnesses of 
 the Commons to corroborate the King's, 
 some being Peers, some Commons, with 
 others of good quality, who took off all the 
 former day's objections, and set the King's 
 witnesses recti in Curid. 
 
 6th. Sir William Jones summed up the 
 evidence ; to him succeeded all the rest of 
 the managers, and then Mr. Henry Poule 1 
 made a vehement oration. After this my 
 Lord, as on all occasions, and often during 
 the trial, spoke in his own defence, denying 
 the charge altogether, and that he had never 
 seen Oates, or Turberville, at the time and 
 manner affirmed : in truth, their testimony 
 did little weigh with me ; Dugdale's only 
 seemed to press hardest, to which my 
 Lord spake a great while, but confusedly, 
 without any method. 
 
 One thing my Lord said as to Oates, 
 which I confess did exceedingly affect me : 
 That a person who during his depositions 
 should so vauntingly brag that though he 
 went over to the Church of Rome, yet he 
 was never a Papist, nor of their religion, 
 all the time that he seemed to apostatise from 
 the Protestantj but only as a spy ; though 
 he confessed he took their sacrament, 
 worshipped images, went through all their 
 oaths, and discipline of their proselytes, 
 swearing secrecy and to be faithful, but 
 with intent to come over again and betray 
 them ; — that such an hypocrite, that had so 
 deeply prevaricated as even to turn idolater 
 (for so we of the Church of England termed 
 it), attesting God so solemnly that he was 
 entirely theirs and devoted to their interest, 
 and consequently (as he pretended) trusted ; 
 — I say, that the witness of such a profligate 
 wretch should be admitted against the life 
 of a peer, — this my Lord looked upon as a 
 monstrous thing, and such as must needs 
 redound to the dishonour of our religion 
 and nation. And verily I am of his 
 Lordship's opinion : such a man's testimony 
 should not be taken against the life of a 
 dog. But the merit of something material 
 which he discovered against Coleman, 2 put 
 him in such esteem with the Parliament, 
 that now, I fancy, he stuck at nothing, 
 and thought everybody was to take what 
 he said for gospel. The consideration of 
 
 [A manager.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 317.] 
 
 this, and some other circumstances, began 
 to stagger me ; particularly how it was 
 possible that one who went among the 
 Papists on such a design, and pretended to 
 be entrusted with so many letters and 
 commissions from the Pope and the party, 
 nay, and delivered them to so many great 
 persons, should not reserve one of them to 
 show, nor so much as one copy of any 
 commission, which he who had such 
 dexterity in opening letters might certainly 
 have done, to the undeniable conviction of 
 those whom he accused ; but, as I said, he 
 gained credit on Coleman. But, as to 
 others whom he so madly flew upon, I am 
 little inclined to believe his testimony, he 
 being so slight a person, so passionate, ill- r " 
 bred, and of such impudent behaviour; 
 nor is it likely that such piercing politicians 
 as the Jesuits should trust him with so high 
 and so dangerous secrets. 
 
 jt/i. On Tuesday, I was again at the 
 trial, when judgment was demanded ; and, 
 after my Lord had spoken what he could 
 in denying the fact, the managers answering 
 the objections, the Peers adjourned to their 
 House, and within two hours returned again. 
 There was, in the meantime, this question 
 put to the judges, "whether there being 
 but one witness to any single crime, or act, 
 it could amount to convict a man of treason. " 
 They gave an unanimous opinion that in 
 case of treason they all were overt acts, 
 for though no man should be condemned 
 by one witness for any one act, yet for 
 several acts to the same intent, it was 
 valid ; which was my Lord's case. This 
 being past, and the Peers in their seats 
 again, the Lord Chancellor Finch 1 (this 
 day the Lord High Steward) removing to 
 the woolsack next his Majesty's state, after 
 summoning the Lieutenant of the Tower to 
 bring forth his prisoner, and proclamation 
 made for silence, demanded of every peer 
 (who were in all eighty-six) whether William, 
 Lord Viscount Stafford, were guilty of the 
 treason laid to his charge, or not guilty. 
 
 Then the Peer spoken to, standing up, 
 and laying his right hand upon his breast, 
 said Guilty, or Not guilty, upon my honour, 
 and then sat down, the Lord Steward noting 
 their suffrages as they answered upon a 
 paper : when all had done, the number of 
 Not guilty being but 31, the Guilty 55 •' 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 233.] 
 
i68i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 333 
 
 and then, after proclamation for silence 
 again, the Lord Steward directing his 
 speech to the prisoner, against whom the 
 axe was turned edgeways and not before, 
 in aggravation of his crime, he being en- 
 nobled by the King's father, and since 
 received many favours from his present 
 Majesty : after enlarging on his offence, 
 deploring first his own unhappiness that 
 he who had never condemned any man 
 before should now be necessitated to begin 
 with him, he then pronounced sentence of 
 death by hanging, drawing, and quartering, 
 according to form, with great solemnity 
 and dreadful gravity ; and, after a short 
 pause, told the prisoner that he believed 
 the Lords would intercede for the omission 
 of some circumstances 1 of his sentence, 
 beheading only excepted ; and then break- 
 ing his white staff, the Court was dissolved. 
 My Lord Stafford during all this latter part 
 spake but little, and only gave their Lord- 
 ships thanks after the sentence was pro- 
 nounced ; and indeed behaved himself 
 modestly, and as became him. 2 
 
 It was observed that all his own rela- 
 tions of his name and family condemned 
 him, except his nephew, the Earl of 
 Arundel, 3 son to the Duke of Norfolk. 
 And it must be acknowledged that the 
 whole trial was carried on with exceeding 
 gravity : so stately and august an appear- 
 ance I had never seen before ; for, besides 
 the innumerable spectators of gentlemen 
 and foreign ministers, who saw and heard 
 all the proceedings, the prisoner had the 
 consciences of all the Commons of England 
 for his accusers, and all the Peers to be his 
 Judges and Jury. He had likewise the 
 assistance of what counsel he would, to 
 direct him in his plea, who stood by him. 
 And yet I can hardly think that a person 
 of his age and experience should engage 
 men whom he never saw before (and one 
 of them that came to visit him as a stranger 
 
 1 [Drawing and quartering, which the King 
 remitted. What Burke's Peerage calls this "ini- 
 quitous attainder," was not reversed till 1824.] 
 
 2 [" He heard his accusers, and defended himself 
 with great resolution, and received his sentence 
 with no less courage, which stayed by him till he 
 laid his head upon the block [see post, under 29th 
 December], protestirfg his innocence to the last" 
 (Reresby's Memoirs, 1875, p. 194)-] 
 
 3 [Henry Howard, Earl of Arundel (Lord Mow- 
 bray), afterwards seventh Duke of Norfolk, 1655- 
 1701 (see ante, p. 222).] 
 
 at Paris) point blank to murder the King : 
 God only who searches hearts, can discover 
 the truth. Lord Stafford was not a man 
 beloved, especially of his own family. 
 
 12th December. This evening, looking out' 
 of my chamber- window towards the west, I 
 saw a meteor of an obscure bright colour, 
 very much in shape like the blade of a sword, 
 the rest of the sky very serene and clear. 
 What this may portend, God only knows ; 
 but such another phenomenon I remember 
 to have seen in 1640, about the trial of the 
 great Earl of Strafford, preceding our bloody 
 Rebellion. 1 I pray God avert his judg- 
 ments I We have had of late several 
 comets, which though I believe appear 
 from natural causes, and of themselves 
 operate not, yet I cannot despise them. 
 They may be warnings from God, as they 
 commonly are forerunners of his anim- 
 adversions. After many days and nights 
 of snow, cloudy and dark weather, the 
 comet was very much wasted. 
 
 I'jtk. My daughter-in-law was brought 
 to bed of a son, christened Richard. 2 
 
 22nd. A solemn public Fast that God 
 would prevent all Popish plots, avert his 
 judgments, and give a blessing to the 
 proceedings of Parliament now assembled, 
 and which struck at the succession of the 
 Duke of York. 
 
 29th. The Viscount Stafford was be- 
 headed on Tower Hill. 3 
 
 1 680-1 : loth February. I was at the 
 wedding of my nephew, John Evelyn of 
 Wotton, married by the Bishop of Rochester 
 at Westminster, in Henry VII. 's chapel, to 
 the daughter and heir of Mr. Eversfield, 
 of Sussex, her portion ^8000. The solem- 
 nity was kept with a few friends only at 
 Lady Beckford's, the lady's mother. 4 
 
 &th March. Visited and dined at the 
 Earl of Essex's, with whom I spent most 
 of the afternoon alone. Thence to my 
 (yet living) godmother and kinswoman, 
 Mrs. Keightley, 5 sister to Sir Thomas 
 Evelyn, and niece to my father, being now 
 eighty-six years of age, sprightly, and in 
 perfect health, her eyes serving her as well 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 25.] 
 
 2 [See post, 6th September, 1681.] 
 
 3 [See ante, 7th December.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 324.] 
 
 5 [Rose, daughter of Thomas Evelyn of Long 
 Ditton, married Thomas Keightley of Stafford- 
 shire (see ante, p. 3).] 
 
334 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1681 
 
 as ever, and of a comely countenance, that 
 one would not suppose her above fifty. 
 
 2']th March. The Parliament now con- 
 vened at Oxford. Great expectation of his 
 Royal Highness's case as to the succession, 1 
 against which the House was set. 
 
 An extraordinary sharp cold spring, not 
 yet a leaf on the trees, frost and snow 
 lying : whilst the whole nation was in the 
 greatest ferment. 
 
 iltk April. I took my leave of Dr. 
 Lloyd (Bishop of St. Asaph) 2 at his house 
 in Leicester Fields, now going to reside in 
 his diocese. 
 
 12th. I dined at Mr. Brisbane's, Sec- 
 retary to the Admiralty, 3 a learned and 
 industrious person, whither came Dr. 
 Burnet, to thank me for some papers I 
 had contributed towards his excellent 
 History of the Reformatio?!* 
 
 26th. I dined at Don Pietro Ronquillo's, 
 the Spanish Ambassador, at Wild House, 5 
 who used me with extraordinary civility. 
 The dinner was plentiful, half after the 
 Spanish, half after the English way. After 
 dinner, he led' me into his bedchamber, 
 where we fell into a long discourse con- 
 cerning religion. Though he was a learned 
 man in politics, and an advocate, he was 
 very ignorant in religion, and able to defend 
 any point of controversy ; he was, however, 
 far from being fierce. At parting, he 
 earnestly wished me to apply humbly to 
 the Blessed Virgin to direct me, assuring 
 me that he had known divers who had 
 been averse from the Roman Catholic 
 religion, wonderfully enlightened and con- 
 vinced by her intercession. He importuned 
 me to come and visit him often. 
 
 29th. But one shower of rain all this 
 month. 
 
 5M May. Came to dine with me Sir 
 William Fermor, 6 of Northamptonshire, 
 and Sir Christopher Wren, his Majesty's 
 Architect and Surveyor, now building the 
 
 1 [Charles proposed that James should be 
 "banished, and William or Mary be made Regent. 
 The Commons rejected this, as the Court really 
 wished they would.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 326.] 
 
 3 [Seepost, under 26th October, 1683.] 
 
 4 [Burnet's History of the R efom?tation 0/ the 
 Church 0/ England was published 1679-1715.] 
 
 5 [Weld, or Wild House, on the site of Little 
 Wild Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, was pulled 
 down circa 1695 (see/>ost, 9th December, 1688).] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 318.] 
 
 Cathedral of St. Paul, and the Column in 
 memory of the City's conflagration, 1 and 
 was in hand with the building of fifty 
 parish churches. A wonderful genius had 
 this incomparable person. 
 
 16th. Came my Lady Sunderland,- to 
 desire that I would propose a match to Sir 
 Stephen Fox 3 for her son, Lord Spencer, 4 
 to marry Mrs. Jane, Sir Stephen's daughter. 
 I excused myself all I was able ; for the 
 truth is, I was afraid he would prove an 
 extravagant man : for, though a youth of 
 extraordinary parts, and had an excellent 
 education to render him a worthy man, 
 yet his early inclinations to extravagance 
 made me apprehensive, that I should not 
 serve Sir Stephen by proposing it, like a 
 friend ; this being now his only daughter, 
 well bred, and likely to receive a large 
 share of her father's opulence. Lord 
 Sunderland was much sunk in his estate 
 by gaming and other prodigalities, and was 
 now no longer Secretary of State, having 
 fallen into displeasure of the King for 
 siding with the Commons about the suc- 
 cession ; but which, I am assured, he did 
 not do out of his own inclination, or for 
 the preservation of the Protestant religion ; 
 but by mistaking the ability of the party to 
 carry it. However, so earnest and im- 
 portunate was the Countess, that I did 
 mention it to Sir Stephen, who said that it 
 was too great an honour, that his daughter 
 was very young as well as my Lord, and 
 he was resolved never to marry her without 
 the parties' mutual liking ; with other 
 objections which I neither would nor could 
 contradict. He desired me to express to 
 the Countess the great sense he had of the 
 honour done him, that his daughter and 
 her son were too young ; that he would do 
 nothing without her liking, which he did 
 not think her capable of expressing judici- 
 ously, till she was sixteen or seventeen 
 years of age, of which she now wanted four 
 years, and that I would put it off as civilly 
 as I could. 
 
 20th. Our new curate preached, a pretty 
 hopeful young man, yet somewhat raw, 
 newly come from college, full of Latin 
 
 1 [The Monument was erected 1671-77.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 280.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 246.] 
 
 4 [Lord Spencer died before his father, who was 
 succeeded by his second son, Charles (see post, 
 under 18th August, 1688).] 
 
i68i] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEL YN 
 
 335 
 
 sentences, which in time will wear off. He 
 read prayers very well. 
 
 2$th May. There came to visit me 
 Sir William Walter and Sir John Elowes : 
 and, the next day, the Earl of Kildare, 1 a 
 young gentleman related to my wife, and 
 other company. There had scarce fallen 
 any rain since Christmas. 
 
 2.7id June. I went to Hampton Court, 
 when the Surrey gentlemen presented their 
 addresses to his Majesty, whose hand I 
 kissed, introduced by the Duke of Albe- 
 marle. Being at the Privy Council, I took 
 another occasion of discoursing with Sir 
 Stephen Fox about his daughter and to 
 revive that business, and at last brought it 
 to this : That, in case the young people 
 liked one the other, after four years, he 
 first desiring to see a particular of my Lord's 
 present estate if I could transmit it to him 
 privately, he would make her portion 
 ^14,000, though to all appearance he 
 might likely make it .£50,000 as easily, his 
 eldest son having no child, and growing 
 very corpulent. 
 
 \2tk. It still continued so great a 
 drought as had never been known in Eng- 
 land, and it was said to be universal. 
 
 lajh August. No sermon this afternoon, 
 which I think did not happen twice in this 
 parish these thirty years ; so gracious has 
 God been to it, and indeed to the whole 
 nation : God grant that we abuse not this 
 great privilege, either by our wantonness, 
 schism, or unfaithfulness, under such means 
 as he has not favoured any other nation 
 under Heaven besides ! 
 
 23rd. I went to Wotton, and, on the 
 following day, was invited to Mr. Denzil 
 Onslow's at his seat at Pyrford, 2 where 
 was much company, and such an ex- 
 traordinary feast, as I had hardly seen at 
 any country gentleman's table. What 
 made it more remarkable was, that there 
 was not anything save what his estate 
 about it did afford ; as venison, rabbits, 
 hares, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, quails, 
 poultry, all sorts of fowl in season from his 
 own decoy near his house, and all sorts of 
 fresh fish. After dinner, we went to see 
 
 1 John FitzGerald, 18th Earl of Kildare, 1661- 
 
 1707. . 
 
 2 [Pyrford, or Pirford Park (now converted into 
 farm land), not far from Ripley. John Donne, 
 Dean of St. Paul's (1621-31), once lived here. Lord 
 Onslow is Lord of the Manor, 
 
 sport at the decoy, where I never saw so 
 many herons. 
 
 The seat stands, on a flat, the ground 
 pasture, rarely watered, and exceedingly 
 improved since Mr. Onslow bought it of 
 Sir Robert Parkhurst, who spent a fair 
 estate. The house is timber, but com- 
 modious, and with one ample dining-room, 
 the hall adorned with paintings of fowl 
 and huntings, etc., the work of Mr. 
 Barlow, 1 who is excellent in this lAnd from 
 the life. 
 
 30M. From Wotton I went to see 
 Mr. Hussey 2 (at Sutton in Shere), who 
 has a very pretty seat well watered, near 
 my brother's. He is the neatest husband 
 for curious ordering his domestic and field 
 accommodations, and what pertains to 
 husbandry, that I have ever seen, as to his 
 granaries, tacklings, tools, and utensils, 
 ploughs, carts, stables, wood-piles, wood- 
 house, even to hen-roosts and hog-troughs. 
 Methought, I saw old Cato, or Varro, in 
 him ; all substantial, all in exact order. 
 The sole inconvenience he lies under, is 
 the great quantity of sand which the 
 stream brings along with it, and fills his 
 canals and receptacles for fish too soon. 
 The rest of my time of stay at Wotton was 
 spent in walking about the grounds and 
 goodly woods, where I have in my youth 
 so often entertained my solitude ; and so, 
 on the 2nd of September, I once more 
 returned to my home. 
 
 6th September. Died my pretty grand- 
 child, and was interred on the 8th [at 
 Deptford]. 3 
 
 iqtk. Dined with Sir Stephen Fox, 
 who proposed to me the purchasing of 
 Chelsea College, 4 which his Majesty had 
 sometime since given to our Society, and 
 would now purchase it again to build an 
 hospital, or infirmary for soldiers there, in 
 which he desired my assistance as one of 
 the Council of the Royal Society. 
 
 15M. I had another opportunity of 
 visiting his Majesty's private library, at 
 Whitehall. 8 
 
 To Sir Samuel Morland's to see his 
 house and mechanics. 6 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 273.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 265.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 188.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 333.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 328.] 
 6 In Lambeth, at what is now Vauxhall, where 
 Sir Samuel Morland had fitted up a house. It 
 
336 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 C1681 
 
 \*1 th September. I went with Monsieur 
 Foubert about taking the Countess of 
 Bristol's house for an academy, he being 
 lately come from Paris for his religion, 
 and resolving to settle there. 1 
 
 2.yd. I went to see Sir Thomas Bond's 
 fine house and garden, at Peckham. 2 
 
 2nd October. I went to Camber well, 
 where that good man Dr. Parr 3 (late 
 chaplain to Archbishop Ussher) preached 
 on Acts'xvi. 30. 
 
 1 it A. To Fulham, to visit the Bishop of 
 London, 4 in whose garden I first saw the 
 Sedum arborescens in flower, which was 
 exceedingly beautiful. 
 
 $tk 'November. Dr. Hooper 6 preached 
 on Mark xii. 16, 17, before the King, of 
 usurpation of the Church of Rome. This 
 is one of the first rank of pulpit men in 
 the nation. 
 
 15M. I dined with the Earl of Essex, 6 
 who, after dinner in his study, where we 
 were alone, related to me how much he 
 had been scandalised and injured in the 
 report of his being privy to the marriage of 
 his Lady's niece, the rich young widow of 
 the late Lord Ogle, sole daughter of the 
 
 contained a large room, furnished magnificently, 
 and elaborate fountains constructed in the garden. 
 He was much in favour with Charles the Second 
 for services he had rendered to him while abroad, 
 and this is probably the place to which it is said the 
 King and his Ladies used to cross the water to go 
 to. See Manning and Bray's Surrey, iii. 480-91. 
 Sir Samuel became blind at last, and seems to have 
 suffered from a sort of religious melancholy. See 
 ante, p. 257 \ and post, under 16th June, 1683, 
 and 25th October, 1695. 
 
 1 [In July, 1680, Major Foubert's Academy on 
 the French model, "for riding, fencing, dancing, 
 branding arms, and mathematics," was in Sherwood 
 (or Sherrard) Street, Piccadilly, near the Hay- 
 market. It was there in 1681 and 1682. Then 
 apparently it was moved to the passage known by 
 his name, connecting King Street with Swallow 
 Street ; and here it remained until, in 1813-20, part 
 of Swallow Street was pulled down for the Regent 
 Street improvements. There is a coloured drawing 
 of Foubert's Academy by C. Tomkins, 1801, in the 
 British Museum. It was in Foubert's Academy 
 that the younger Konigsmarck, Philip, was living 
 with his Governor at the time of Thynne's murder 
 (seepost, under 15th November); and here also for 
 a few days, at the same date, lodged the elder 
 brother, Carl Johann von KOnigsmarck, the princi- 
 pal in that affair (Memoirs of Sir John Reresby, 
 1875, p. 237).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 305.] 3 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Compton (see ante. p. 267).] 
 
 5 [Dr. George Hooper, 1640- 1727, afterwards 
 „ Bishop of Bath and Wells.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 324.] 
 
 Earl of Northumberland ; showing me a 
 letter of Mr. Thynne's, excusing himself 
 for not communicating his marriage to his 
 Lordship. He acquainted me also with 
 the whole story of that unfortunate lady 
 being betrayed by her grandmother, the 
 Countess of Northumberland, and Colonel 
 Bret, for money ; and that though, upon 
 the importunity of the Duke of Monmouth, 
 he had delivered to the grandmother a 
 particular of the jointure which Mr. Thynne 
 pretended he would settle on the lady, yet 
 he totally discouraged the proceeding, as 
 by no means a competent match for one 
 that both by birth and fortune might 
 have pretended to the greatest prince in 
 Christendom ; that he also proposed the 
 Earl of Kingston, or the Lord Cranburn, 
 but was by no means for Mr. Thynne. 1 
 igt/i. I dined with my worthy friend, 
 
 l Thomas Thynne, of Longleat Hall, Wilts, 
 1648-82, commonly known as "Tom of Ten 
 Thousand" (a year), and the "Issachar" of 
 Dryden's Absalom and Achitophel. In 1681 he 
 had married Elizabeth Percy (1667 -1722), only 
 surviving daughter and heiress of Josceline, 
 eleventh and last Earl of Northumberland, and 
 widow of Henry Cavendish, Earl of Ogle ; but she 
 had fled from Thynne into Holland shortly after 
 the ceremony. [He was shot in his coach at the 
 lower end of St. Alban's Street, near the Hay- 
 market, on February 12, 1682, by one Colonel 
 Christopher Vratz, and two others, a Swedish 
 lieutenant, John Stern, and a Polander, all three 
 acting, it was believed, in the interests of Count 
 Carl Johann von Konigsmarck (elder brother of 
 Philip, afterwards the lover of Sophia Dorothea of 
 Celle), a former suitor of Lady Ogle. Kdnigs- 
 marck contrived to get off, but Vratz and his 
 colleagues were hanged, March 10, on the spot 
 where the murder was committed. Their victim 
 was buried in Westminster Abbey, where there is a 
 bas-reiief depicting his death. Sir John Reresby, 
 at this date (like Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey) 
 a Justice of Peace for Middlesex and West- 
 minster, was very active in the case, of which he 
 gives an account at pp. 235-241 of his Memoirs, 
 1875.] It may be added, assuming the truth of 
 what Lord Essex conveyed to Evelyn in the text, 
 that the inclinations of the lady were not consulted 
 in her second union ; and this may have given rise 
 to the suspicion that she encouraged Count Konigs- 
 marck *s addresses, and was privy to his designs 
 upon her husband. [She afterwards (1682) married 
 Charles Seymour, sixth Duke of Somerset (1662- 
 1784), and was attacked in Swift's Windsor Pro- 
 phecy (17 11) : — 
 
 And, dear Englond, if ought I understond, 
 Beware of Carrots, from Northumberland \ 
 Carrots sown Thynne a deep root may get, 
 If so be they are in Somer set ; 
 Their Conyngs mark thou ; for I have been told 
 They assassine when young, and poison when old, 
 etc.] 
 
1682] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 337 
 
 Mr. Erskine, 1 Master of the Charter-house, 
 uncle to the Duchess of Monmouth ; a 
 wise and learned gentleman, fitter to have 
 been a privy councillor and minister of 
 state than to have been laid aside. 
 
 2/\tk November. I was at the audience of 
 the Russian Ambassador before both their 
 Majesties in the Banqueting-house. The 
 presents were carried before him, held up 
 by his followers in two ranks before the 
 King's State, and consisted of tapestry 
 (one suite of which was doubtlessly brought 
 from France as being of that fabric, the 
 Ambassador having passed through that 
 kingdom as he came out of Spain), a large 
 Persian carpet, furs of sable and ermine, 
 etc. ; but nothing was so splendid and 
 exotic as the Ambassador who came soon 
 after the King's restoration. 2 This present 
 Ambassador was exceedingly offended that 
 his coach was not permitted to come into 
 the Court, till, being told that no King's 
 Ambassador did, he was pacified, yet 
 requiring an attestation of it under the 
 hand of Sir Charles Cotterell, the Master 
 of the Ceremonies ; being, it seems, afraid 
 he should offend his Master, if he omitted 
 the least punctilio. It was reported he 
 condemned his son to lose his head for 
 shaving off his beard, and putting himself 
 in the French mode at Paris, and that he 
 would have executed it, had not the French 
 King interceded — but qy. of this. 
 
 30M. Sir Christopher Wren chosen 
 President [of the Royal Society], Mr. 
 Austine, Secretary, with Dr. Plot, 3 the 
 ingenious author of the History of Oxford- 
 shire. There was a most illustrious 
 appearance. 
 
 1681-2 : 1 it k January. I saw the audi- 
 ence of the Morocco Ambassador, 4 his 
 retinue not numerous. He was received 
 in the Banqueting - house, both their 
 
 1 [William Erskine, d. 1685. He was Master of 
 Charterhouse 1 677*85, and Cup-bearer to Charles 
 II. The Duchess of Monmouth wa? Ann Scott, 
 Countess of Buccleruch. ] 
 
 - [See ante, p. 225.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 300.] 
 
 4 Named Hamet. He made his public entry 
 through London the fifth of this month. On the 
 thirtieth of May following, he was entertained at 
 Oxford ; and, about the same time, dined with 
 Elias Ashmole, who presented him with a magnify- 
 ing glass. July 14, the Ambassador took his leave 
 of the King, and on the 23rd of the same month 
 embarked for his own country. There is a large 
 print of him by Robert White. 
 
 Majesties being present. He came up to 
 the throne without making any sort of 
 reverence, not bowing his head, or body. 
 He spake by a renegado Englishman, for 
 whose safe return there was a promise. 
 They were all clad in the Moorish habit, 
 cassocks of coloured cloth, or silk, with 
 buttons and loops, over this an alhaga, or 
 white woollen mantle, so large as to wrap 
 both head and body, a sash, or small 
 turban, naked-legged and armed, but with 
 leather socks like the Turks, rich scymitar, 
 and large calico sleeved shirts. The 
 Ambassador had a string of pearls oddly 
 woven in his turban. I fancy the old 
 Roman habit was little different as to the 
 mantle and naked limbs. He was a hand- 
 some person, well-featured, of a wise look, 
 subtle, and extremely civil. Their presents 
 were lions and ostriches ; 1 their errand 
 about a peace at Tangier. But the con- 
 course and tumult of the people was in- 
 tolerable, so as the officers could keep no 
 order, which these strangers were astonished 
 at at first, there being nothing so regular, 
 exact, and performed with such silence, 
 as is on all these public occasions of their 
 country, and indeed over all the Turkish 
 dominions. 
 
 14//Z. Dined at the Bishop of Ro- 
 chester's, 2 at the Abbey, it being his 
 marriage-day, after twenty-four years. He 
 related to me how he had been treated by 
 Sir William Temple, foreseeing that he 
 might be a delegate in the concern of my 
 Lady Ogle now likely to come in contro- 
 versy upon her marriage with Mr. Thynne ; 
 also, how earnestly the late Earl of Danby, 
 Lord Treasurer, 3 sought his friendship, and 
 what plain and sincere advice he gave him 
 from time to time about his miscarriages 
 and partialities ; particularly his outing Sir 
 John Duncombe 4 from being Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer, and Sir Stephen Fox, above 
 all, from Paymaster of the Army. The 
 Treasurer's excuse and reason was, that 
 Fox's credit was so over-great with the 
 
 1 "That Ambassador's present to the King was 
 two lions and thirty ostriches, which his Majesty 
 laughed at, saying he knew nothing fitter to return 
 than a flock of geese " (Reresby's Memoirs, 1875, 
 p. 232). 
 
 2 [Dr. Dolben (see ante, p. 320 ».).] 
 
 3 [The Earl of Danby did not die till 1712. At 
 this moment he was a prisoner in the Tower. 
 Evelyn possibly means he was no longer Lord 
 Treasurer.] 4 [See ante,, p. 245.] 
 
338 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1682 
 
 bankers and monied men, that he could 
 procure none but by his means ; "for that 
 reason," replied the Bishop, " I would 
 have made him my friend, Sir Stephen 
 being a person both honest and of credit." 
 He told him likewise of his stateliness and 
 difficulty of access, and several other mis- 
 carriages, and which indeed made him 
 hated. 
 
 24//^ January. To the Royal Society, 
 where at the Council we passed a new 
 law for the more accurate consideration of 
 candidates, as whether they would really 
 be useful ; also, concerning the honorary 
 members, that none should be admitted 
 but by diploma. 
 
 This evening, I was at the entertainment 
 of the Morocco Ambassador at the Duchess 
 of Portsmouth's glorious apartments at 
 Whitehall, 1 where was a great banquet of 
 sweetmeats and music; but at which both the 
 Ambassador and his retinue behaved them- 
 selves with extraordinary moderation and 
 modesty, though placed about a long table, 
 a lady between two Moors, and amongst 
 these were the King's natural children, 
 namely, Lady Lichfield and Sussex, the 
 Duchess of Portsmouth, Nelly, etc., con- 
 cubines, and cattle of that sort, as splendid 
 as jewels and excess of bravery could make 
 them ; the Moors neither admiring nor 
 seeming to regard anything, furniture or 
 the like, with any earnestness, and but 
 decently tasting of the banquet. They 
 drank a little milk and water, but hot a 
 drop of wine ; they also drank of a sorbet 
 and jacolatt ; 2 did not look about, or stare 
 on the ladies, or express the least surprise, 
 but with a courtly negligence in pace, 
 countenance, and whole behaviour, answer- 
 ing only to. such questions as were asked 
 with a great deal of wit and gallantry, and 
 so gravely took leave with this compliment, 
 that God would bless the Duchess of Ports- 
 mouth and the Prince her son, meaning 
 the little Duke of Richmond. The King 
 came in at the latter end, just as the Am- 
 bassador was going away. In this manner 
 was this slave (for he was no more at 
 home) entertained by most of the nobility 
 in town, and went often to Hyde Park on 
 horseback, where he and his retinue 
 showed their extraordinary activity in horse- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 302.] 
 
 2 [Sherbet and chocolate (see ante, p. 176).] 
 
 manship, and flinging and catching their 
 lances at full speed ; they rode very short, 
 and could stand upright at full speed, 
 managing their spears with incredible 
 agility. He went sometimes to the 
 theatres, where upon any foolish or fan- 
 tastical action, he could not forbear laugh- 
 ing, but he endeavoured to hide it with 
 extraordinary modesty and gravity. In a 
 word, the Russian Ambassador, still at 
 Court, behaved himself like a clown, com- 
 pared to this civil heathen. 
 
 27th. This evening, Sir Stephen Fox 
 acquainted me again with his Majesty's 
 resolution of proceeding in the erection 
 of a Royal Hospital for emerited 
 soldiers on that spot of ground which the 
 Royal Society had sold to his Majesty 
 
 f° r ^ i 3°°j 1 an d tnat ne would settle 
 ^"5000 per annum on it, and build to 
 the value of ^20,000 for the relief and 
 reception of four companies, namely, 400 
 men, to be as in a college or monastery. I 
 was therefore desired by Sir Stephen (who 
 had not only the whole managing of this, 
 but was, as I perceived, himself to be a 
 grand benefactor, as well it became him 
 who had gotten so vast an estate by the 
 soldiers) to assist him, and consult what 
 method to cast it in, as to the government. 
 So, in his study we arranged the governor, 
 chaplain, steward, house-keeper, chirur- 
 geon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and 
 other officers, with their several salaries 
 and entertainments. I would needs have 
 a library, and mentioned several books, 
 since some soldiers might possibly be 
 studious, when they were at leisure to re- 
 collect. Thus we made the first calcula- 
 tions, and set down our thoughts to be 
 considered and digested better, to show 
 his Majesty and the Archbishop. He also 
 engaged me to consider of what laws and 
 orders were fit for the government, which 
 was to be in every respect as strict as in 
 any religious convent. 
 
 After supper, came in the famous treble, 
 Mr. Abell, 2 newly returned from Italy ; I 
 never heard a more excellent voice ; one 
 would have sworn it had been a woman's, 
 it was so high, and so well and skilfully 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 335] 
 
 2 [John Abell, 1660-1716, " Gentleman of His 
 Majesty's Chapel," 1679. He had been sent by 
 Charles II. to cultivate his voice in Italy, 1681-82.! 
 
1682] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 539 
 
 managed, being accompanied by Signor 
 Francesco on the harpsichord. 1 
 
 2&th January. Mr. Pepys, late Secretary 
 to the Admiralty, showed me a large folio 
 containing the whole mechanic part and art 
 of building royal ships and men of war, made 
 by Sir Anthony Deane, 2 being so accurate 
 a piece from the very keel to the lead 
 block, rigging, guns, victualling, manning, 
 and even to every individual pin and nail, 
 in a method so astonishing and curious, 
 with a draught, both geometrical and in 
 perspective, and several sections, that I do 
 not think the world can show the like. I 
 esteem this book as an extraordinary jewel. 
 ^T^ ih February. My daughter, Mary, 
 r began to learn music of Signor Barthol- 
 omeo, s and dancing of Monsieur Isaac, 4 
 reputed the best masters. 
 
 Having had several violent fits of an 
 ague, recourse was had to bathing my legs 
 in milk up to the knees, made as hot as I 
 / could endure it ; and sitting so in it in a 
 V deep churn, or vessel, covered with 
 blankets, and drinking carduus posset, 5 
 then going to bed and sweating, I not only 
 missed that expected fit, but had no more, 
 only continued weak, that I could not go 
 to church till Ash-Wednesday, which I 
 had not missed, I think, so long in twenty 
 years, so gracious had God been to me. 
 
 After this warning and admonition, I 
 now began to look over and methodise all 
 my writings, accounts, letters, papers ; 
 inventoried the goods, and other articles 
 of the house, and put things into the best 
 order I could, and made my will ; that 
 now, growing in years, I might have none 
 of these secular things and concerns to dis- 
 tract me, when it should please Almighty 
 God to call me from this transitory life. 
 With this, I prepared some special medita- 
 tions and devotions for the time of sickness. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 297.] 
 
 2 [Sir Anthony Deane, 1638-1721, shipbuilder 
 and F.R.S.] 3 [See ante, p. 323.] 
 
 4 [Isaac was a famous French dancing-master : — 
 
 And Isaac's Rigadoon shall live as long, 
 As Raphael's painting, or as Virgil's song. 
 
 There is a print of him by G. White after 
 L. Goupy. He is mentioned in Swift's Polite 
 Conversation) 1738, v. xvii., and in Tatler, Nos. 
 34 and 109.] 
 
 5 [Carduus Benedictus, or Blessed Thistle, used 
 as a posset-drink for fevers (Miller's Herbal, 1722, 
 p. 114).] 
 
 The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary 
 for my poor soul in that day, that I may 
 obtain mercy and acceptance ! 
 
 1st March. My second grandchild was 
 bom, and christened the next day by our 
 vicar at Sayes Court, by the name of John. 1 
 I beseech God to bless him ! 
 
 2nd. Ash - Wednesday. I went to 
 church : our vicar preached on Proverbs, 
 showing what care and vigilance was 
 required for the keeping of the heart 
 upright. The Holy Communion followed, 
 on which I gave God thanks for his 
 gracious dealing with me in my late sick- 
 ness, and affording me this blessed oppor- 
 tunity of praising Him in the congregation, 
 and receiving the cup of salvation with 
 new and serious resolutions. 
 
 Came to see and congratulate my re- 
 covery, Sir John Lowther, 2 Mr. Herbert, 3 
 Mr. Pepys, Sir Anthony Deane, 4 and Mr. 
 Hill. 5 
 
 10th. This day was executed Colonel 
 Vratz, and some of his accomplices, for the 
 execrable murder of Mr. Thynne, 6 set on 
 by the principal Konigsmarck. He went 
 to execution like an undaunted hero, as 
 one that had done a friendly office for that 
 base coward, Count Konigsmarck, who 
 had hopes to marry his widow, the rich 
 Lady Ogle, and was acquitted by a corrupt 
 jury, and so got away. Vratz told a friend 
 of mine who accompanied him to the 
 gallows, and gave him some advice, that 
 he did not value dying of a rush, and 
 hoped and believed God would deal with 
 him like a gentleman. Never man went, 
 so unconcerned for his sad fate. 7 
 
 1 [John Evelyn, d. 1763. He became his 
 grandfather's successor, and was created a baronet 
 in 1713. He married Ann, daughter qf Edward 
 Boscawen (see ante, p. 314).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 311.] 
 
 3 [Lord Herbert's nephew.] 
 
 4 [See ante, 28th January.] 
 
 8 [Abraham Hill, 1639-1721, Treasurer to the 
 Royal Society.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 336.] 
 
 7 [Reresby confirms this account (Memoirs, 1875, 
 p. 243). " The captain (Vratz) died without any 
 expression of fear, or laying any guilt upon 
 Coningsmark. Seeing me in my coach as he 
 passed in the cart to execution, he bowed to me 
 with a steady look, as he did to those he knew 
 among the spectators, before he was turned off ; 
 in fine, his whole carriage, from his first being 
 apprehended till the last, relished more of gallantry 
 than religion." Reresby says that Vratz had led 
 a forlorn hope at the siege of Mons, " where only 
 
34Q 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1682 
 
 2d,ih March. I went to see the corpse of 
 that obstinate creature, Colonel Vratz, the 
 King permitting that his body should be 
 transported to his own country, he being 
 of a good family, and one of the first 
 embalmed by a particular art, invented by 
 one William Russell, a coffin-maker, which 
 preserved the body without disbowelling, 
 or to appearance using any bituminous ' 
 matter. 1 The flesh was florid, soft, and 
 full, as if the person were only sleeping. 
 He had now been dead near fifteen days, 
 and lay exposed in a very rich coffin lined 
 with lead, too magnificent for so daring 
 and horrid a murderer. 
 
 At the meeting of the Royal Society 
 were exhibited some pieces of amber sent 
 by the Duke of Brandenburg, in one of 
 which was a spider, in another a gnat, 
 both very entire. There was a discourse 
 of the tingeing of glass, especially with 
 red, and the difficulty of finding anyred 
 colour effectual to penetrate glass, among 
 the glass-painters ; that the most diaphan- 
 ous, as blue, yellow, etc., did not enter 
 into the substance of what was ordinarily 
 painted, more than very shallow, unless 
 incorporated in the metal itself, other reds 
 and whites not at all beyond the 
 superficies. 
 
 $tk April. To the Royal Society, 
 where at a Council was regulated what 
 collections should be published monthly, 
 as formerly transactions, which had of 
 late been discontinued, but were now 
 much called for by the curious abroad 
 and at home. 
 
 12th. I went this afternoon with 
 several of the Royal Society to a supper 
 which was all dressed, both fish and flesh, 
 in Monsieur Papin's digesters, by which 
 the hardest bones of beef itself, and 
 mutton, were made as soft as cheese, 
 without water or other liquor, and with 
 less than eight ounces of coals, producing 
 an incredible quantity of gravy ; and for 
 close of all, a jelly made of the bones of 
 beef, the best for clearness and good 
 relish, and the most delicious that I had 
 ever seen, or tasted. We eat pike and 
 
 two besides himself, of fifty under his command, 
 came off with life" {ibid. p. 623).] 
 
 1 [Tar was used in these cases. " Have you 
 brought the sawdust and Tar for embalming ? " — 
 says Sable, the undertaker, in Sc. i. of Steele's 
 Funeral, 1701.] 
 
 other fish bones, and all without impedi- 
 ment ; but nothing exceeded the pigeons, 
 which tasted just as if baked in a pie, all 
 these being stewed in their own juice, 
 without any addition of water save what 
 swam about the digester, as in balneo ; 
 the natural juice of all these provisions 
 acting on the grosser substances, reduced 
 the hardest bones to tenderness ; but it is 
 best descanted with more particulars for 
 extracting tinctures, preserving and stew- 
 ing fruit, and saving fuel, in Dr. Papin's 
 book, published and dedicated to our 
 Society, of which he is a member. He is 
 since gone to Venice with the late Resident 
 here (and also a member of our Society), 
 who carried this excellent mechanic, phil- 
 osopher, and physician, to set up a 
 philosophical meeting in that city. This 
 philosophical supper caused much mirth 
 amongst us, and exceedingly pleased all 
 the company. I sent a glass of the jelly 
 to my wife, to the reproach of all that the 
 ladies ever made of the best hartshorn. 1 
 
 The. season was unusually wet, with rain 
 and thunder. 
 
 25M May. I was desired by Sir Stephen 
 Fox and Sir Christopher Wren to accom- 
 pany them to Lambeth, with the plot and 
 design of the College to be built at Chelsea, 
 to have the Archbishop's approbation. 2 It 
 was a quadrangle of 200 feet square, after 
 the dimensions of the larger quadrangle at 
 Christ-Church, Oxford, for the accom- 
 modation of 440 persons, with governor 
 and officers. This was agreed on. 
 
 The Duke and Duchess of York were just 
 now come to London, after his escape and 
 shipwreck, 3 as he went by sea for Scotland. 
 
 1 Denys Papin, or Papinus, 1647-1712, a French 
 physician and mathematician, who possessed so 
 remarkable a knowledge of mathematics, that he 
 very nearly brought the invention of the steam- 
 engine into working order. He assisted Mr. 
 Boyle in his pneumatic experiments, and was 
 afterwards mathematical professor at Marburg, 
 1688-95. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 335.] 
 
 3 [He had been shipwrecked in returning to 
 Scotland after his last visit to London. " May 12 
 [1682]. Came account that the ship called the 
 Gloucester, a third-rate, in which the Duke went 
 for Scotland, was cast away on Yarmouth sands, 
 and that all the passengers, save the Duke and 
 about 160 persons, were drowned. Among those 
 that were lost were my Lord O'Brien and Lord 
 Roxburghe, Mr. Hyde, my Lord Clarendon's 
 brother; all which proved too true" {Memoirs of 
 Sir John Reresby, 1875, p. 250). See post, under 
 
1682] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 341 
 
 28M May. At the Roll's chapel preached 
 the famous Dr. Burnet on 2 Peter i. 10, 
 describing excellently well what was meant 
 by election ; viz. not the effect of any 
 irreversible decree, but so called because 
 they embraced the Gospel readily, by 
 which they became elect, or precious to 
 God. It would be very needless to make 
 our calling and election sure, were they 
 irreversible and what the rigid Presbyter- 
 ians pretend. In the afternoon, to St. 
 Lawrence's church, a new and cheerful 
 pile. x 
 
 29M. I gave notice to the Bishop of 
 Rochester of what Maimburghad published 
 about the motives of the late Duchess of 
 York's perversion, in his History of Calvin- 
 ism ; and did myself write to the Bishop 
 of Winchester 2 about it, who being con- 
 cerned in it, I urged him to Set forth his 
 vindication. 
 
 31st. The Morocco Ambassador being 
 admitted an honorary member of the Royal 
 Society, and subscribing his name and 
 titles in Arabic, I was deputed by the 
 Council to go and compliment him. 
 
 19th June. The Bantam, 3 or East India 
 Ambassadors (at this time we had in 
 London the Russian, Moroccan, and Indian 
 Ambassadors), being invited to dine at 
 Lord George Berkeley's 4 (now Earl), I 
 went to the entertainment to contemplate 
 the exotic guests. They were both very 
 hard-favoured, and much resembling in 
 countenance some sort of monkeys. We 
 eat at two tables, the Ambassadors and 
 interpreter by themselves. Their garments 
 were rich Indian silks, flowered with gold, 
 viz. a close waistcoat to their knees, 
 drawers, naked legs, and on their heads 
 caps made like fruit-baskets. They wore 
 poisoned daggers at their bosoms, the hafts 
 carved with some ugly serpents' or devils' 
 heads, exceeding keen, and of Damascus 
 
 26th March, 1685. Pepys might have been among 
 the number ; but he had preferred to go in his own 
 yacht — the Catharine.] 
 
 1 [St. Lawrence, Jewry, in the Ward of Cheap, 
 built by Wren, 1671-80. It is perhaps the most 
 carefully finished of Wren's churches.] 
 
 2 Dr. Morley. 
 
 3 The name of one was Pungearon Nia Para ; of 
 the other Kaia Nebbe, or Keay Nabee. There 
 are prints existing of both, representing them 
 exactly as here described. There were others in 
 the embassy, but probably of inferior degree. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 199.] 
 
 metal. They wore no sword. The second 
 Ambassador (sent it seems to succeed in 
 case the first should die by the way in so 
 tedious a journey), having been at Mecca, 
 wore a Turkish or Arab sash, a little part 
 of the linen hanging down behind his 
 neck, with some other difference of habit, 
 and was half a negro, bare legged and 
 naked feet, and deemed a very holy man. 
 They sate cross-legged like Turks, and 
 sometimes in the posture of apes and 
 monkeys ; their nails and teeth as black 
 as jet, and shining, which being the effect, 
 as to their teeth, of perpetually chewing 
 betel to preserve them from the tooth- 
 ache, much raging in their country, is 
 esteemed beautiful. 
 
 The first ambassador was of an olive 
 hue, a flat face, narrow eyes, squat nose, 
 and Moorish lips, no hair appeared ; they 
 wore several rings of silver, gold, and 
 copper on their fingers, which was a token 
 of knighthood, or nobility. They were of 
 Java Major, whose princes have been 
 turned Mahomedans not above fifty years 
 since ; the inhabitants are still pagans and 
 idolaters. They seemed of a dull and 
 heavy constitution, not wondering at any- 
 thing they saw ; but exceedingly astonished 
 how our law gave us propriety in our 
 estates, and so thinking we were all kings, 
 for they could not be made to comprehend 
 how subjects could possess anything but at 
 the pleasure of their Prince, they being all 
 slaves ; they were pleased with the notion, 
 and admired our happiness. They were 
 very sober, and I believe subtle in their 
 way. Their meat was cooked, carried up, 
 and they attended by several fat slaves, 
 who had no covering save drawers, which 
 appeared very uncouth and loathsome. 
 They eat their pilau, and other spoon-meat, 
 without spoons, taking up their pottage in 
 the hollow of their fingers, and very dex- 
 terously flung it into their mouths without 
 spilling a drop. 
 
 17 ih July. Came to dine with me, the 
 Duke of Grafton and the young Earl of 
 Ossory, 1 son to my most dear deceased 
 friend. 
 
 2,0th. Went to visit our good neighbour, 
 Mr. Bohun, 2 whose whole house is a 
 
 1 [James Butler, 1665-1745, afterwards second 
 Duke of Ormonde.] 
 
 2 This was at Lee in Kent (see ante, p. 321). 
 
342 
 
 THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1682 
 
 cabinet of all elegancies, especially Indian ; 
 in the hall are contrivances of Japan 
 screens, instead of wainscot ; and there is 
 an excellent pendule clock enclosed in the 
 curious flower-work of Mr. Gibbons, in the 
 middle of the vestibule. The landscapes 
 of the screens represent the manner of 
 living, and country of the Chinese. But, 
 above all, his lady's cabinet is adorned on 
 the fret, ceiling, and chimney-piece, with 
 Mr. Gibbons' best carving. There are 
 also some of Streater's 1 best paintings, 
 and many rich curiosities of gold and 
 silver as growing in the mines. The 
 gardens are exactly kept, and the whole 
 place very agreeable and well watered. 
 The owners are good neighbours, and Mr. 
 Bohun has also built and endowed an 
 hospital for eight poor people, with a 
 pretty chapel, and every necessary ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 1st August. To the Bishop of London 
 at Fulham, to review the additions which 
 Mr. Marshall 2 had made to his curious 
 book of flowers in miniature, and collec- 
 tion of insects. 
 
 4th. With Sir Stephen Fox, to survey 
 the foundations of the Royal Hospital 
 begun at Chelsea. 
 
 gth. The Council of the Royal Society 
 had it recommended to them to be trustees 
 and visitors, or supervisors, of the Academy 
 which Monsieur Foubert 3 did hope to pro- 
 cure to be built by subscription of worthy 
 gentlemen and noblemen, for the education 
 of youth, and to lessen the vast expense 
 the nation is at yearly by sending children 
 into France to be taught military exercises. 
 We thought good to give him all the 
 encouragement our recommendation could 
 procure. 
 
 i$t/i. Came to visit me Dr. Rogers, 4 
 an acquaintance of mine long since at 
 Padua. 5 He was then Consul of the Eng- 
 lish nation, and student in that University, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 230.] 
 
 2 [William Marshall (see ante, p. 149 «.).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 336.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 125. Rogers printed his 
 Harveian oration in 1682, adding to it the Latin 
 oration he had delivered when he " proceeded 
 Doctor of Physic " at Padua in 1646. To this were 
 appended by Tooke, the bookseller, some Latin 
 verses by Evelyn, Abdy (see ante, p. 130), Croyden 
 (see ante, p. 159) and others (W. P. Courtney in 
 Notes and Queries, 29th June, 1907).] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 125.] 
 
 where he proceeded Doctor in Physic ; 
 presenting me now with the Latin oration 
 he lately made upon the famous Dr. 
 Harvey's anniversary in the College of 
 Physicians, at London. 
 
 2.0th. This night I saw another comet, 
 near Cancer, very bright, but the stream 
 not so long as the former. 
 
 2gt/i. Supped at Lord Clarendon's, with 
 Lord Hyde, 1 his brother, now the great 
 favourite, who invited himself to dine at 
 my house the Tuesday following. 
 
 30M [31^] October. Being my birthday, 
 and I now entering my great climacterical 
 of 63, after serious recollections of the 
 years past, giving Almighty God thanks 
 for all his merciful preservations and for- 
 bearance, begging pardon for my sins and 
 unworthiness, and his blessing on me the 
 year entering ; I went with my Lady Fox 
 to survey her building, and give some 
 directions for the garden at Chiswick ; the 
 architect is Mr. May ; somewhat heavy 
 and thick, and not so well understood ; the 
 garden much too narrow, the place without 
 water, near a highway, and near another 
 great house of my Lord Burlington, little 
 land about it, so that I wonder at the 
 expense ; but women will have their 
 will. 2 
 
 2,5th November. I was invited to dine 
 with Monsieur Lionberg, the Swedish 
 Resident, who made a magnificent enter- 
 tainment, it being the birthday of his King. 
 There dined the Duke of Albemarle, Duke 
 of Hamilton, Earl of Bath, Earl of Ayles- 
 
 1 [Lawrence Hyde, 1641-1711, second son of 
 Lord Clarendon, created Viscount Hyde and first 
 Earl of Rochester in 1681.] 
 
 2 [This house — a corner of which is shown in 
 Kip's print (1708) of Lord Burlington's house at 
 Chiswick — was built by May for Sir Stephen Fox. 
 He made it his principal residence — says Lysons 
 (Environs of London, 2nd ed., 1811, ii. 133)— when 
 he had retired from public business. " King 
 William was so pleased with it, that he is said to 
 have exclaimed to the Earl of Portland, upon his 
 first visit, ' This place is perfectly fine ; I could live 
 here five days.' This, it seems, was his usual 
 expression when he was much pleased with a 
 situation." It passed to Sir Stephen's youngest 
 son, Henry, and then to others. When Lysons 
 wrote, it was inhabited by Lady Mary Coke. 
 After her death, the property was acquired by the 
 Duke of Devonshire ; the house was pulled down 
 in 1812, and the grounds were added to Chiswick 
 House. Bowack speaks (1705-6) of the gardens as 
 "extraordinarily fine" (Phillimore and Whitear's 
 Chiswick, 1897, pp. 12, 40. 268. 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 343 
 
 bury, Lord Arran, 1 Lord Castlehaven, the 
 son of him who was executed fifty years 
 before, and several great persons. I was 
 exceedingly afraid of drinking (it being a 
 Dutch feast), but the Duke of Albemarle 
 being that night to wait on his Majesty, 
 excess was prohibited ; and, to prevent all, 
 I stole away and left the company as soon 
 as we rose from table. 
 
 2&th November. I went to the Council 
 of the Royal Society, for the auditing the last 
 year's account, where I was surprised with 
 a fainting fit that for a time took away my 
 sight ; but God being merciful to me, I 
 recovered it after a short repose. 
 
 Tpth. I was exceedingly endangered 
 and importuned to stand the election, 2 
 having so many voices, but by favour of 
 my friends, and regard of my remote 
 dwelling, and now frequent infirmities, I 
 desired their suffrages might be transferred 
 to Sir John Hoskins, 3 one of the Masters 
 of Chancery ; a most learned virtuoso 
 as well as lawyer, who accordingly was 
 elected. 
 
 jth December. Went to congratulate 
 Lord Hyde (the great favourite), newly 
 made Earl of Rochester, 4 and lately marry- 
 ing his eldest daughter to the Earl of 
 Ossory. 
 
 lSt%. I sold my East India adventure 
 of .£250 principal for ^750 to the Royal 
 Society, after I had been in that company 
 twenty-five years, being extraordinary ad- 
 vantageous, by the blessing of God. 
 
 1682 - 3 : 23rd January. Sir Francis 
 North, 5 son to the Lord North, and Lord 
 Chief Justice, being made Lord Keeper on 
 the death of the Earl of Nottingham, the 
 Lord Chancellor, I went to congratulate 
 him. He is a most knowing, learned, and 
 ingenious man, and, besides being an excel- 
 lent person, of an ingenuous and sweet 
 disposition, very skilful in music, painting, 
 the new philosophy, and politer studies. 
 
 29M. Supped at Sir Joseph William- 
 son's, 6 where was a select company of our 
 Society, Sir William Petty, Dr. Gale (that 
 learned schoolmaster of St. Paul's), 7 Dr. 
 
 1 [James Hamilton, Earl of Arran, eldest son of 
 the Duke of Hamilton.] 
 
 2 For President of the Royal Society. 
 
 3 [Sir John Hoskins, 1634-1705 ; P.R.S. 1682- 
 83.] 4 See supra, p. 342. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 285.] 6 [See ante, p. 234.] 
 
 7 Dr. Thomas Gale, 1635-1702 ; he was Greek 
 
 Whistler, 1 Mr. Hill, 2 etc. The conversa- 
 tion was philosophical and cheerful, on 
 divers considerable questions proposed ; as 
 of the hereditary succession of the Roman 
 Emperors ; the Pica mentioned in the pre- 
 face to our Common Prayer, which signifies 
 only the Greek Kalendarium. These were 
 mixed with lighter subjects. 
 
 2nd February. I made my court at St. 
 James's, when I saw the sea - charts of 
 Captain Collins, 3 which that industrious 
 man now brought to show the Duke, 
 having taken all the coasting from the 
 mouth of the Thames as far as Wales, and 
 exactly measuring every creek, island, rock, 
 soundings, harbours, sands, and tides, in- 
 tending next spring to proceed till he had 
 finished the whole island, and that measured 
 by chains and other instruments : a most 
 exact and useful undertaking. He affirmed, 
 that of all the maps put out since, there 
 are none extant so true as those of John 
 Norden, 4 who gave us the first in Queen 
 Elizabeth's time ; all since him are erro- 
 neous. 
 
 12th. This morning, I received the 
 news of the death of my father-in-law, Sir 
 Richard Browne, 5 Knt. and Bart., who 
 died at my house at Sayes Court this day 
 at ten in the morning, after he had laboured 
 under the gout and dropsy for near six 
 months, in the, 78th year of his age. The 
 funeral was solemnised on the 19th at 
 Deptford, with as much decency as the 
 dignity of the person, and our relation to 
 him, required ; there being invited the 
 Bishop of Rochester, several noblemen, 
 knights, and all the fraternity of the Trinity 
 Company, of which he had been Master, 
 and others of the country. The vicar 
 preached a short but proper discourse on 
 Psalm xxxix. 10, on the frailty of our 
 mortal condition, concluding with an ample 
 
 Professor at Camhridge, High Master of St. Paul's 
 School, 1672-97, and subsequently Dean of York. 
 He was the author of several scholastic works ; 
 and was counted among the most learned men of 
 his time. 
 1 [See ante, p. 303.] 2 [See ante, p. 339.] 
 
 3 Probably John Collins, 1625-83, who had been 
 in the naval service of Venice, and who was 
 employed at this time as an accountant in some of 
 the Government offices, was a contributor to the 
 Transactions of the Royal Society, and wrote 
 several mathematical works. 
 
 4 [John Norden, 1548-1625, topographer and 
 surveyor.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 28. 1 
 
344 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1683 
 
 aRd well-deserved eulogy on the defunct, 
 relating to his honourable birth and an- 
 cestors, education, learning in Greek and 
 Latin, modern languages, travels, public 
 employments, signal loyalty, character 
 abroad, and particularly the honour of sup- 
 porting the Church of England in its public 
 worship during its persecution by the late 
 rebels' usurpation and regicide, by the 
 suffrages of divers Bishops, Doctors of the 
 church, and others, who found such an 
 asylum in his house and family at Paris, 
 that in their disputes with the Papists 
 (then triumphing over it as utterly lost) 
 they used to argue for its visibility and 
 existence from Sir R. Browne's chapel and 
 assembly there. Then he spoke of his 
 great and loyal sufferings during thirteen 
 years' exile with his present Majesty, his 
 return with him in the signal year 1660 ; 
 his honourable employment at home, his 
 timely recess to recollect himself, his great 
 age, infirmities, and death. 
 
 He gave to the Trinity Corporation that 
 land in Deptford on which are built those 
 alms-houses for twenty -four widows of 
 emerited seamen. 1 He was born the 
 famous year of the Gunpowder Treason, 
 in 1605, and being the last [male] of his 
 family, left my wife, his only daughter, heir. 
 His grandfather, Sir Richard Browne, was 
 the great instrument under the great Earl 
 of Leicester (favourite to Queen Elizabeth) 
 in his government of the Netherlands. He 
 was Master of the Household to King 
 James, and Cofferer ; I think was the first 
 who regulated the compositions through 
 England for the King's Household, pro- 
 visions, progresses,- etc., which was so 
 high a service, and so grateful to the whole 
 nation, that he had acknowledgments 
 and public thanks sent him from all the 
 counties ; he died by the rupture of a vein 
 in a vehement speech he made about the 
 compositions in a Parliament of King 
 James. By his mother's side he was a 
 Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy in the 
 reigns of Henry the Eighth, Queen Mary, 
 and Queen Elizabeth, and, as by his large 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 276.] 
 
 2 Notice was taken of this in a previous pas- 
 sage of the Diary. The different counties were to 
 find provisions of different sorts, which were col- 
 lected by officers called purveyors, whose extor- 
 tions often excited the attention of Parliament (see 
 Archceologia, vol. viii. pp. 329-62 ). 
 
 pedigree appears, related to divers of the 
 English nobility. Thus ended this honour- 
 able person, after so many changes and 
 tossings to and fro, in the same house 
 where he was born. " Lord, teach us so 
 to number our days, that we may apply 
 our hearts unto wisdom ! " 
 
 By a special clause in his will, he ordered 
 that his body should be buried in the church- 
 yard under the south-east window of the 
 chancel, adjoining to the burying-places of 
 his ancestors, since they came out of Essex 
 to Sayes Court, 1 he being much offended 
 at the novel custom of burying every one 
 within the body of the church and chancel ; 
 that being a favour heretofore granted to 
 martyrs and great persons ; this excess of 
 making churches charnel-houses being of 
 ill and irreverent example, and prejudicial 
 to the health of the living, besides the con- 
 tinual disturbance of the pavement and 
 seats, and several other indecencies. Dr. 
 Hall, the pious Bishop of Norwich, 2 would 
 also be so interred, 3 as may be read in his 
 testament. 
 
 \6th March. I went to see Sir Josiah 
 Child's prodigious cost in planting walnut 
 trees about his seat, 4 and making fishponds, 
 many miles in circuit, in Epping Forest, 
 in a barren spot, as oftentimes these sud- 
 denly monied men for the most part seat 
 themselves. He from a merchant's appren- 
 tice, and management of the East India 
 Company's stock, being arrived to an estate 
 ('tis said) of ^200,000 ; and lately married 
 his daughter to the eldest son of the Duke 
 of Beaufort, late Marquis of Worcester, 
 with ^50,000 portional present, and various 
 expectations. 
 
 I dined at Mr. Houblon's, 5 a rich and 
 gentle French merchant, who was building 
 a house in the Forest, near Sir J. Child's, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 145.] 
 
 2 [Joseph Hall, 1 574-1656 ; Bishop of Norwich, 
 1641-47.] 
 
 3 As was afterwards, at Fulham, Dr. Compton, 
 Bishop of London, who used to say, " The church- 
 yard for the dead, the church for the living." 
 
 4 [At Wanstead in Essex. Sir Josiah Child, 
 1630-99, bought the Manor in 1667 from Sir Robert 
 Brookes, to whom it had been transferred by the 
 Duke of York. Child was the autocrat of the East 
 India Company, and the author of A New Dis- 
 course of Trade, 1668. His son Richard was 
 created Viscount Castlemaine in 1718, and Earl 
 Tynley in 1732. The first Wanstead House made 
 way for a second, now also pulled down.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 317.] 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 345 
 
 in a place where the late Earl of Norwich 
 dwelt some time, and which came from 
 his lady, the widow of Mr. Baker. It will 
 be a pretty villa, about five miles from 
 Whitechapel. 
 
 iSth March. I went to hear Dr. 
 Horneck 1 preach at the Savoy Church, on 
 Phil. ii. 5. He was a German born, a most 
 pathetic preacher, a person of a saint-like 
 life, and hath written an excellent treatise 
 on Consideration. 2 
 
 20th. Dined at Dr. Whistler's, 3 at the 
 Physicians' College, with Sir Thomas 
 Millington, 4 both learned men ; Dr. W. 
 the most facetious man in nature, and now 
 Censor of the College. I was here con- 
 sulted where they should build their library ; 
 it is pity this College is built so near New- 
 gate Prison, and in so obscure a hole, 5 a 
 fault in placing most of our public build- 
 ings and churches in the City, through the 
 avarice of some few men, and his Majesty 
 not overruling it, when it was in his power 
 after the dreadful conflagration. 
 
 21st. Dr. Tenison preached at White- 
 hall on I Cor. vi. 12 ; I esteem him to be 
 one of the most profitable preachers in the 
 Church of England, being also of a most 
 holy conversation, very learned and in- 
 genious. The pains he takes and care of 
 his parish will, I fear, wear him out, which 
 would be an inexpressible loss. 6 
 
 24M. I went to hear Dr. Charleton's 
 lecture on the heart in the Anatomy Theatre 
 at the Physicians' College. 7 
 
 30///. To London, in order to my pass- 
 ing the following week, for the celebra- 
 
 1 [Dr. Anthony Horneck, 1641-97. He wrote, 
 inter alia, The Happy Ascetick, 1681, for the sixth 
 edition of which, 1724, Hogarth engraved a frontis- 
 piece ; and he was the ancestor of Goldsmith's 
 " Jessamy Bride".] 
 
 2 The full title is The great Law of Considera- 
 tion, or a Discourse "wherein the nature, useful- 
 ness, and absolute necessity of Consideration, in 
 order to a truly serious and religious life, are 
 laid open. It went through several editions. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 343.] 
 
 4 [Sir Thomas Millington, F.R.S., 1628-1704.] 
 
 5 [It was in Warwick Lane, Newgate Street, and 
 was pulled down in 1866.] The present College 
 in Pall Mall East was opened by Sir Henry 
 Halford in 1825. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 330. He lived until 1715-] 
 
 7 Dr. Walter Charleton, 1619 - 1707, was with 
 Charles II. during his exile, in the capacity of 
 physician, and returned with him at the Restora- 
 tion. He wrote on natural history, antiquities, 
 theology, medicine, and natural philosophy. 
 
 tion of the Easter now approaching, there 
 being in the Holy Week so many eminent 
 preachers officiating at the Court and other 
 places. 
 
 6th April. Good Friday. There was 
 in the afternoon, according to custom, a 
 sermon before the King, at Whitehall ; 
 Dr. Sprat 1 preached for the Bishop of 
 Rochester. 
 
 ijt/i. I was at the launching of the last 
 of the thirty ships ordered to be new built 
 by Act of Parliament, named the Neptune, 
 a second-rate, one of the goodliest vessels 
 of the whole navy, built by my kind neigh- 
 bour, young Mr. Shish, 2 his Majesty's 
 master-shipwright of this dock. 
 
 1st May. I went to Blackheath, to see 
 the new fair, being the first procured by 
 the Lord Dartmouth. 3 This was the first 
 day, pretended for the sale of cattle, but I 
 think in truth to enrich the new tavern at 
 the bowling-green, erected by Snape, 4 his 
 Majesty's farrier, a man full of projects. 
 There appeared nothing but an innumer- 
 able assembly of drinking people from 
 London, pedlars, etc., and I suppose it too 
 near London to be of any great use to the 
 country. 5 
 
 March was unusually hot and dry, and 
 all April excessively wet. 
 
 I planted all the out-limits of the garden 
 and long walks with holly. 6 
 
 gt/i. Dined at Sir Gabriel Sylvius's, 7 
 and thence to visit the Duke of Norfolk, to 
 ask whether he would part with any of his 
 cartoons and other drawings of Raphael, 
 and the great masters ; he told me if he 
 might sell them all together he would, but 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 267.] 
 
 2 [Perhaps John Shish, d. 1686, Jonas Shish's 
 eldest son. See ante, p. 261, for account of Shish 
 the elder.] 
 
 3 [George Legge, first Baron Dartmouth, 1648- 
 91 ; Master of the Trinity House, 1683 ; Admiral 
 and Commander of the Fleet, 1688-89.] 
 
 4 Granger mentions a print of this person by 
 White, and says he was father of Dr. Snape, of 
 Eton ; members of the same family had been 
 serjeant-farriers to the Sovereign for three hundred 
 years. 
 
 5 [It " lasted as a ' hog ' and pleasure fair, being 
 held on May 12 and October 11, till 1872, when it 
 was suppressed by an Order signed by the Home 
 Secretary" (Thome's Environs of London, 1876, 
 p. 48).] 
 
 6 Evelyn adds a note: "400 feet in length, 
 9 feet high, 5 in diameter, in my now ruined 
 garden, thanks to the Czar of Muscovy." — Sylva, 
 1706, i. p. 265. 7 [See ante, p. 311.] 
 
; 4 6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1683 
 
 that the late Sir Peter Lely (our famous 
 painter) had gotten some of his best. The 
 person who desired me to treat for them 
 was Vander Douse, grandson of that great 
 scholar, contemporary and friend of Joseph 
 Scaliger. 
 
 16M May. Came to dinner and visit 
 [me] Sir Richard Anderson, 1 of Pendley, 
 and his lady, with whom I went to 
 London. 
 
 %thjune. On my return home from the 
 Royal Society, I found Mr. Wilbraham, 2 a 
 young gentleman of Cheshire. 
 
 1 ith. The Lord Dartmouth was elected 
 Master of the Trinity House ; son to 
 George Legge, 3 late Master of the Ord- 
 nance, and one of the Grooms of the 
 Bedchamber ; a great favourite of the 
 Duke's, an active and understanding 
 gentleman in sea-affairs. 
 
 1 yA. To our Society, where we received 
 the Count de Zinzendorp, Ambassador 
 from the Duke of Saxony : a fine young 
 man : we showed him divers experiments 
 on the magnet, on which subject the 
 Society were upon. 
 
 i6tL I went to Windsor, dining by the 
 way at Chiswick, 4 at Sir Stephen Fox's, 
 where I found Sir Robert Howard G (that 
 universal pretender), and Signor Verrio, 
 who brought his draught and designs for 
 the painting of the staircase of Sir Stephen's 
 new house. 
 
 That which was new at Windsor since I 
 was last there, and was surprising to me, 
 was the incomparable fresco painting in St. 
 George's Hall, representing the legend of 
 St. George, and triumph of the Black 
 Prince, and his reception by Edward III. ; 
 the volto, or roof, not totally finished ; then 
 the Resurrection in the Chapel, where 
 the figure of the Ascension is, in my 
 opinion, comparable to any paintings of 
 the most famous Roman masters ; the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 330.] 
 
 2 [This was one Randle Wilbraham, a young 
 man of twenty, eldest son of Roger Wilbraham, of 
 Townsend [Welsh Row], Nantwich. Having been 
 crossed in love, he had left his home for London, 
 whence he was afterwards induced to return. He 
 subsequently married Mary, daughter of Sir 
 Richard Brooke, Bart., of Norton, Cheshire. (In- 
 formation kindly supplied by Mr. James Hall, the 
 historian of Nantwich).] 
 
 :i \William Legge, 1609-70; Lieutenant-General 
 of the Ordnance, 1660.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 342.] 5 [ See ante, p. 225.] 
 
 Last Supper, also over the altar. I liked 
 the contrivance of the unseen organ behind 
 the altar, nor less the stupendous and 
 beyond all description the incomparable 
 carving of our Gibbons, who is, without 
 controversy, the greatest master both for 
 invention and rareness of work, that the 
 world ever had in any age ; nor doubt I at 
 all that he will prove as great a master in 
 statuary art. 
 
 Verrio's invention is admirable, his 
 ordonnaitce 1 full and flowing, antique and 
 heroical ; his figures move ; and, if the 
 walls hold (which is the only doubt by 
 reason of the salts which in time and in 
 this moist climate prejudice), the work will 
 preserve his name to ages. 2 
 
 There was now the terrace brought 
 almost round the old Castle ; the grass 
 made clean, even, and curiously turfed ; 
 the avenues to the new park, and other 
 walks, planted with elms and limes, and a 
 pretty canal, and receptacle for fowl ; nor 
 less observable and famous is the throwing 
 so huge a quantity of excellent water to the 
 enormous height of the Castle, for the use 
 of the whole house, by an extraordinary 
 invention of Sir Samuel Morland. 3 
 
 Vjth. I dined at the Earl of Sunder- 
 land's with the Earls of Bath, Castlehaven, 
 Lords Viscounts Fauconberg, Falkland, 4 
 Bishop of London, 5 the Grand Master 
 of Malta, brother to the Duke de 
 Vendome (a young wild spark), 6 and Mr. 
 Dryden, the poet. 7 After evening prayer, 
 I walked in the park with my Lord 
 Clarendon, where we fell into discourse of 
 the Bishop of Salisbury (Dr. Seth Ward), 8 
 his subtlety, etc. Dr Durel, 9 late Dean of 
 
 1 [Ordonnance in painting = general disposition 
 of parts.] 
 
 2 [For these works, which occupied several years, 
 Verrio received nearly ,67000. He also acted as 
 Master Gardener.] 
 
 «* See ante, p. 335. 
 
 4 [Anthony Cary, fifth Viscount Falkland, 1656- 
 94 (see^ost, under 30th May, 1694).] 
 
 5 [Dr. Compton (see ante, p. 267.] 
 
 6 [Philippe de Vendome, 1655-1727, second son 
 of the Duke de Vendome and Laure Mancini, 
 sister of the Duchess Mazarin. He was "grand 
 prieur" de France. The Duchess of Portsmouth 
 took a fancy to him ; and Charles II. hurried 
 him out of the country (Airy, Charles II., 1901, 
 p. 271.).] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 295. He was made Collector of 
 Customs for the port of London in this year.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 175.] 9 [See ante, p. 318.] 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 347 
 
 Windsor, being dead, Dr. Turner, 1 one of 
 the Duke's chaplains, was made dean. 
 
 I visited my Lady Arlington, Groom of 
 the Stole to her Majesty, 2 who being hardly 
 set down to supper, word was brought her 
 that the Queen was going into the park to 
 walk, it being now near eleven at night ; 
 the alarm caused the Countess to rise in all 
 haste, and leave her supper to us. 
 
 By this one may take an estimate of 
 the extreme slavery and subjection that 
 courtiers live in, who have not time to eat 
 and drink at their pleasure. It put me in 
 mind of Horace's Mouse* and to bless 
 God for my own private condition. 
 
 Here was Monsieur de 1' Angle, the 
 famous minister of Charenton, lately fled 
 from the persecution in France, concerning 
 the deplorable condition of the Protestants 
 there. 
 
 iSt/iTune. I was present, and saw and 
 heard the humble submission and petition 
 of the Lord Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, 
 on behalf of the City of London, on the 
 quo warranto against their charter, which 
 they delivered to his Majesty in the 
 presence - chamber. It was delivered 
 kneeling, and then the King and Council 
 went into the council-chamber, the Mayor 
 and his brethren attending still in the 
 presence-chamber. After a short space, 
 they were called in, and my Lord Keeper 
 made a speech to them, exaggerating the 
 disorderly and riotous behaviour in the 
 late election, and polling for Papillon 
 and Du Bois after the Common-hall had 
 been formally dissolved ; with other mis- 
 demeanours, libels on the government, 
 etc., by which they had incurred his 
 Majesty's high displeasure ; and that but 
 for this submission, and under such articles 
 as the King should require their obedience 
 to, he would certainly enter judgment 
 against them, which hitherto he had sus- 
 pended. The things required were as 
 follows : that they should neither elect 
 Mayor, Sheriffs, Aldermen, Recorder, 
 Common Serjeant, Town-Clerk, Coroner, 
 nor Steward of Southwark, without his 
 Majesty's approbation ; and that if they 
 
 1 [Dr. Francis Turner, 1638 - 1700, afterwards 
 Bishop of Rochester (see post, under 30th March, 
 1684)] 2 [See ante, p. 290.] 
 
 3 [The tale told by Cervius, Satire, Book ii. 
 Sat. vi.J 
 
 presented any his Majesty did not like, 
 they should proceed in wonted manner to 
 a second choice ; if that was disapproved, 
 his Majesty to nominate them ; and if 
 within five days they thought good to 
 assent to this, all former miscarriages 
 should be forgotten. And so they tamely 
 parted with their so ancient privileges 
 after they had dined and been treated by 
 the King. This was a signal and most 
 remarkable period. What the consequences 
 will prove, time will show. Divers of the 
 old and most learned lawyers and judges 
 were of opinion that they could not forfeit 
 their charter, but might be personally 
 punished for their misdemeanours ; but the 
 plurality of the younger judges and rising 
 men judged it otherwise. 
 
 The Popish Plot also, which had hitherto 
 made such a noise, began now sensibly 
 to dwindle, through the folly, knavery, 
 impudence, and giddiness of Oates, so as 
 the Papists began to hold up their heads 
 higher than ever, and those who had fled, 
 flocked to London from abroad. Such 
 sudden changes and eager doings there 
 had been, without anything steady or 
 prudent, for these last seven years. 
 
 igth. I returned to town in a coach 
 with the Earl of Clarendon, 1 when passing 
 by the glorious palace of his father, 
 built but a few years before, which they 
 were now demolishing, being sold to 
 certain undertakers, I turned my head the 
 contrary way till the coach had gone past it, 
 lest I might minister occasion of speaking 
 of it ; which must needs have grieved him, 
 that in so short a time their pomp was 
 fallen. 
 
 28th. After the Popish Plot, there was 
 now a new and (as they called it) a Pro- 
 testant Plot discovered, 3 that certain Lords 
 and others should design the assassination 
 of the King and the Duke as they were to 
 come from Newmarket, with a general 
 rising of the nation, and especially of the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 342.] 
 
 2 [It had been sold by Clarendon's sons to 
 Christopher Monck, the second and last Duke of 
 Albemarle, for ,£26,000, having cost ,£40,000. At 
 this date it was called Albemarle House. Albe- 
 marle sold it for £35,000 to Sir Thomas Bond, who 
 pulled it down, and built Bond Street and Albemarle 
 Buildings on its site (see post, under 18th Septem- 
 ber, 1683).] 
 
 3 [The Rye House Plot, so called from the house 
 on the Lea near Hoddesden in Herts (then occupied 
 
348 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1683 
 
 City of London, disaffected to the present 
 Government. Upon which were com- 
 mitted to the Tower, the Lord Russell, 
 eldest son of the Earl of Bedford, 1 the Earl 
 of Essex, 2 Mr. Algernon Sidney, son to 
 the old Earl of Leicester, 3 Mr. Trenchard, 
 Hampden, Lord Howard of Escrick, 4 and 
 others. A proclamation was issued against 
 my Lord Grey, 5 the Duke of Monmouth, 
 Sir Thomas Armstrong, 6 and one Ferguson, 7 
 who had escaped beyond sea ; of these 
 some were said to be for killing the King, 
 others for only seizing on him, and per- 
 suading him to new counsels, on the 
 pretence of the danger of Popery, should 
 the Duke live to succeed, who was now 
 again admitted to the councils and cabinet 
 secrets. The Lords Essex and Russell 
 were much deplored, for believing they 
 had any evil intention against the King, or 
 
 by the conspirator Richard Rumbold), which was 
 to have been the scene of the assassination — "a 
 place so convenient for such a villany as scarce to be 
 found in England," writes Bramston ; " besides the 
 closeness of the way over the river by a bridge, 
 gates to pass, a strong hedge on one side, brick 
 walls on the other" {Autobiography, 1845, p. 182). 
 Reresby adds some details to Evelyn's account. 
 "June 26. Came the report of a dangerous con- 
 spiracy against the life of our sovereign lord the 
 King, laid by the anti-Court party, composed of 
 such as had been disappointed of preferments at 
 Court, and of Protestant dissenters. It was also 
 against the Duke of York, and intended to have 
 shot the King and the Duke coming from New- 
 market in their coach, the certain day of his return 
 being known, by forty men well armed, who, after 
 the blow given, were to fly to London, and to 
 report that the papists had done it. In London 
 there was a body of men ready to rise, to make 
 themselves masters of the City and Tower, and 
 consequently of the whole kingdom — the Prince of 
 Orange being in Holland (the next right heir to the 
 Crown), and the Duke of Monmouth being ready 
 to head the rebels " (Memoirs, 1875, pp. 279-80). 
 The Rye House is now a place of entertain- 
 ment.] 
 
 1 [William Lord Russell, 1639-83, afterwards 
 executed at Lincoln's Inn Fields (July 21). He 
 was not charged with compassing the King's 
 death ; and his attainder was reversed on the 
 accession of William and Mary.] 
 
 - [See ante, p. 324.] 
 
 3 [Algernon Sidney, 1622-83, executed on Tower 
 Hill (see fiost, under 5th December, 1683).] 
 
 4 [William Howard, third Baron Howard of 
 Escrick, 1626 - 94, who betrayed Russell and 
 Sidney.] 
 
 5 [Forde Grey, third Baron Grey of Werk, and 
 afterwards Earl of Tankerville, 1620-89. He had 
 fled to Holland.] 
 
 6 [Sir Thomas Armstrong, 1624-84, executed at 
 Tyburn (see fast, under 22nd June, 1687).] 
 
 " [Robert Ferguson (the "Plotter"), d. 1714.] 
 
 the Church ; some thought they were cun- 
 ningly drawn in by their enemies for not 
 approving some late counsels and manage- 
 ment relating to France, to Popery, to the 
 persecution of the Dissenters, etc. They 
 were discovered by the Lord Howard of 
 Escrick and some false brethren of the 
 club, and the design happily broken ; had 
 it taken effect, it would, to all appearance, 
 have exposed the Government to unknown 
 and dangerous events ; which God avert ! 
 
 Was born my grand-daughter at Sayes 
 Court, and christened by the name of 
 Martha Maria, 1 our Vicar officiating. I 
 pray God bless her, and may she choose 
 the better part ! 
 
 1 ith July. As I was visiting Sir Thomas 
 Yarborough and his lady a in Covent Gar- 
 den, the astonishing news was brought to 
 us of the Earl of Essex having cut his 
 throat, having been but three days a 
 prisoner in the Tower, and this happening 
 on the very day and instant that Lord 
 Russell was on his trial, and had sentence 
 of death. This accident exceedingly 
 amazed me, my Lord Essex being so well 
 known by me to be a person of such sober 
 and religious deportment, so well at his 
 ease, and so much obliged to the King. It 
 is certain the King and Duke were at the 
 Tower, and passed by his window about 
 the same time this morning, when my 
 Lord asking for a razor, shut himself into 
 a closet, and perpetrated the horrid act. 
 Yet it was wondered by some how it was 
 possible he should do it in the manner he 
 was found, for the wound was so deep and 
 wide, that being cut through the gullet, wind- 
 pipe, and both the jugulars, it reached to 
 the very vertebrae of the neck, so that the 
 head held to it by a very little skin as it 
 were ; the gapping too of the razor, and 
 cutting his own fingers, was a little strange ; 
 but more, that having passed the jugulars 
 he should have strength to proceed so far, 
 that an executioner could hardly have done 
 more with an axe. There were odd reflec- 
 tions upon it. 3 
 
 1 [See post, under 28th August, 1683.] 
 
 2 The lady was Mary Blagge, of whom Anthony 
 Hamilton says so much in his seventh chapter ; and 
 sister of Margaret Blagge (see ante, p. 266.). 
 
 a Bishop Burnet, after making inquiry, by desire 
 of the Countess, declares that he does not believe 
 that Essex was murdered (History 0/ His Own 
 Times, 1724, vol. i. pp. 569-70). 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 349 
 
 The fatal news coming to Hicks's Hall l 
 upon the article of my Lord Russell's trial, 
 was said to have had no little influence on 
 the Jury and all the Bench to his prejudice. 
 Others said that he had himself on some 
 occasions hinted that in case he should be 
 in danger of having his life taken from him 
 by any public misfortune, those who thirsted 
 for his estate should miss of their aim ; and 
 that he should speak favourably of that 
 Earl of Northumberland, 2 and some others, 
 who made away with themselves ; but these 
 are discourses so unlike his sober and 
 prudent conversation, that I have no in- 
 clination to credit them. What might 
 instigate him to this devilish act, I am not 
 able to conjecture. My Lord Clarendon, 
 his brother-in-law, who was with him but 
 the day before, assured me he was then 
 very cheerful, and declared it to be the 
 effect of his innocence and loyalty ; and 
 most believe that his Majesty had no severe 
 intentions against him, though he was 
 altogether inexorable as to Lord Russell 
 and some of the rest. I^or my part, I 
 believe the crafty and ambitious Earl of 
 Shaftesbury 3 had brought them into some 
 dislike of the present carriage of matters 
 at Court, not with any design of destroying 
 the monarchy (which Shaftesbury had in 
 confidence and for unanswerable reasons 
 told me he would support to his last breath, 
 as having seen and felt the misery of being 
 under mechanic tyranny), but perhaps of 
 setting up some other whom he might 
 govern, and frame to his own plalonic 
 fancy, without much regard to the religion 
 established under the hierarchy, for which 
 he had no esteem ; but when he perceived 
 those whom he had engaged to rise, fail 
 of his expectations, and the day past, 
 reproaching his accomplices that a second 
 day for an exploit of this nature was never 
 successful, he gave them the slip, and got 
 into Holland, where the fox died, 4 three 
 months before these unhappy Lords and 
 
 1 [The, Sessions House of the County of Middle- 
 sex, in St. John Street, Clerkenwell. Here Russell 
 was condemned to death ; and Koningsmarck 
 acquitted (see ante, p. 336).] 
 
 2 Henry Percy, 1532-85, eighth Earl of North- 
 umberland, the great-grandfather of Essex's wife, 
 had shot himself in the Tower, to which he had 
 been committed on a charge of high treason. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 264. ] 
 
 4 [22nd January, 16S3.] 
 
 others were discovered or suspected. Every 
 one deplored Essex and Russell, especially 
 the last, as being thought to have been 
 drawn in on pretence only of endeavouring 
 to rescue the King from his present coun- 
 sellors, and secure religion from Popery, 
 and the nation from arbitrary government, 
 now so much apprehended ; whilst the 
 rest of those who were fled, especially 
 Ferguson and his gang, had doubtless 
 some bloody design to get up a Common- 
 wealth, and turn all things topsy-turvey. 
 Of the same tragical principles is Sidney. 
 
 I had this day much discourse with 
 Monsieur Pontac, son to the famous and 
 wise prime President of Bordeaux. 1 This 
 gentleman was owner of that excellent 
 vignoble of Pontac and O'Brien, from 
 whence come the choicest of our Bordeaux 
 wines ; and I think I may truly say of him, 
 what was not so truly said of St. Paul, that 
 much learning had made him mad. He 
 had studied well in philosophy, but chiefly 
 the Rabbins, and was exceedingly addicted 
 to cabalistical fancies, an eternal hfiblador 
 [romancer], and half distracted by reading 
 abundance of the extravagant Eastern 
 Jews. He spoke all languages, was 
 very rich, had a handsome person, and 
 was well-bred, about forty-five years of 
 age. 
 
 14//& July. I visited Mr. Frazer, a 
 learned Scots gentleman, whom I had 
 formerly recommended to Lord Berkeley 
 for the instruction and government of his 
 son, since dead at sea.' 2 He had now 
 been in Holland at the sale of the learned 
 Heinsius's library, 3 and showed me some 
 very rare and curious books, and some 
 MSS., which he had purchased to good 
 value. There were three or four Herbals 
 in miniature, accurately done, divers 
 Roman antiquities of Verona, and very 
 many books of Aldus's impression. 
 
 i$tk. A stranger, and old man, preached 
 on Jerem. vi. 8, the not hearkening to 
 instruction, portentous of desolation to a 
 people ; much after Bishop Andrews's 
 method, full of logical divisions, in short 
 
 1 Arnaud de Pontac. The son's eating-house 
 was in Abchurch Lane, City. "We all dined at 
 Pontac's as usual " — says Evelyn, 30th November, 
 1693, referring to the Royal Society. They con- 
 tinued to dine there till 1746. Swift mentions this 
 popular resort. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 188.] 3 [See ante, p. 17.] 
 
35o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1683 
 
 and broken periods, and Latin sentences, 
 now quite out of fashion in the pulpit, 
 which is grown into a far more profitable 
 way, of plain and practical discourses, of 
 which sort this nation, or any other, never 
 had greater plenty or more profitable (I 
 am confident) ; so much has it to answer 
 for thriving no better on it. 
 
 The public was now in great consterna- 
 tion on the late plot and conspiracy ; his 
 Majesty very melancholy, and not stirring 
 without double guards ; all the avenues 
 and private doors about Whitehall and the 
 Park shut up, few admitted to walk in it. 
 The Papists, in the meantime, very jocund ; 
 and indeed with reason, seeing their own 
 plot brought to nothing, and turned to 
 ridicule, and now a conspiracy of Protes- 
 tants, as they called them. 
 
 The Turks were likewise in hostility 
 against the German Emperor, almost 
 masters of the Upper Hungary, and 
 drawing towards Vienna. On the other 
 side, the French King (who it is believed 
 brought in the infidels) disturbing his 
 Spanish and Dutch neighbours, having 
 swallowed up almost all Flanders, pursuing 
 his ambition of a fifth universal monarchy ; 
 and all this blood and disorder in Christen- 
 dom had evidently its rise from our defec- 
 tions at home, in a wanton peace, minding 
 nothing but luxury, ambition, and to pro- 
 cure money for our vices. To this add 
 our irreligion and atheism, great ingrati- 
 tude, and self-interest ; the apostasy of 
 some, and the suffering the French to grow 
 so great, and the Hollanders so weak. In 
 a word, we were wanton, mad, and 
 surfeiting with prosperity ; every moment 
 unsettling the old foundations, and never 
 constant to anything. The Lord in 
 mercy avert the sad omen, and that we 
 do not provoke Him till He bear it no 
 longer ! 
 
 This summer did we suffer twenty French 
 men-of-war to pass our Channel towards 
 the Sound, to help the Danes against the 
 Swedes, who had abandoned the French 
 interest ; we not having ready sufficient to 
 guard our coasts, or take cognizance of 
 what they did ; though the nation never 
 had more, or a better navy, yet the sea 
 had never so slender a fleet. 
 
 19th July. George, Prince of Denmark, 1 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 224.] 
 
 who had landed this day, came to marry the 
 Lady Anne, 1 daughter to the Duke ; so I 
 returned home, having seen the young 
 gallant at dinner at Whitehall. 
 
 20M. Several of the conspirators of the 
 lower form were executed at Tyburn ; and 
 the next day, 
 
 2 1 st. Lord Russell was beheaded in 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields, the executioner giving 
 him three butcherly strokes. The speech 
 he made, and the paper which he gave the 
 Sheriff declaring his innocence, the noble- 
 ness of the family, the piety and worthiness 
 of the unhappy gentlemen, wrought much 
 pity, and occasioned various discourses on 
 the plot. 
 
 2$th. I again saw Prince George of 
 Denmark : 2 he had the Danish counten- 
 ance, blonde, of few words, spoke French 
 but ill, seemed somewhat heavy, but 
 reported to be valiant, and indeed he had 
 bravely rescued and brought off his brother, 
 the King of Denmark, in a battle against 
 the Swedes, when both these Kings were 
 engaged very smartly. 
 
 28M. He was married to the Lady 
 Anne at Whitehall. Her court and house- 
 hold to be modelled as the Duke's, her 
 father, had been ; and they to continue in 
 England. 
 
 1st August. Came to see me Mr. 
 Flamsteed, the famous astronomer,* from 
 his Observatory at Greenwich, to draw the 
 meridian from my pendule, etc. 
 
 ind. The Countesses of Bristol and 
 Sunderland, aunt and cousin-german of the 
 late Lord Russell, came to visit me, and 
 condone his sad fate. The next day, came 
 Colonel Russell, uncle to the late Lord 
 Russell, and brother to the Earl of Bedford, 
 and with him Mrs. Myddleton, that famous 
 and indeed incomparable beauty, 4 daughter 
 to my relation, Sir Robert Needham. 
 
 igtk. I went to Bromley to visit our 
 Bishop, 5 and excellent neighbour, and to 
 congratulate his now being made Arch- 
 bishop of York. On the 28th, he came 
 
 1 [Afterwards Queen Anne.] 
 
 2 [See ante, 19th July.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 306.] 
 
 4 [Jane Needham, 1645-92, married to Charles 
 Myddleton in 1660. The Duke of York, Gram- 
 mont, and Waller were among her many admirers, 
 and she bade fair at one time to rival the Duchess 
 of Cleveland.] 
 
 5 [Of Rochester. Dr. John Dolben was Arch- 
 bishop of York, 1683-86.] 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 35i 
 
 to take his leave of us, now preparing for 
 his journey and residence in his province. 
 
 2&th August. My sweet little grandchild, 
 Martha Maria, died, and on the 29th was 
 buried in the parish church. 1 
 
 2nd September. This morning, was read 
 in the church, after the Office was done, 
 the Declaration setting forth the late con- 
 spiracy against the King's person. 
 
 yd. I went to see what had been done 
 by the Duke of Beaufort on his late 
 purchased house at Chelsea, 2 which I once 
 had the selling of for the Countess of 
 Bristol ; he had made great alterations, 
 but might have built a better house with 
 the materials and the cost he had been at. 
 
 Saw the Countess of Monte Feltre whose 
 husband I had formerly known ; he was a 
 subject of the Pope's, but becoming a 
 Protestant he resided in England, and 
 married into the family of the Savilles, of 
 Yorkshire. The Count, her late husband, 
 was a very learned gentleman, a great 
 politician, and a goodly man. She was 
 accompanied by her sister, exceedingly 
 skilled in 'painting, nor did they spare for 
 colour on their own faces. 3 They had a 
 great deal of wit. 
 
 ()tk. It being the day of public thanks- 
 giving for his Majesty's late preservation, 
 the former declaration was again read, and 
 there was an Office used, composed for the 
 occasion. A loyal sermon was preached on 
 the divine right of Kings, from Psalm cxliv. 
 10. "Thou hast preserved David from 
 the peril of the sword." 
 
 15M. Came to visit me the learned 
 anatomist, Dr. Tyson, 4 with some other 
 Fellows of our Society. 
 
 16th. At the elegant villa and garden 
 of Mr. Bohun, at Lee. 5 He showed me 
 the zinnar tree, or platanus, and told me 
 that since they had planted this kind of 
 tree about the city of Ispahan, in Persia, the 
 plague, which formerly much infested the 
 place, had exceedingly abated of its mortal 
 effects, and rendered it very healthy. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 348.] - [See ante, p. 317.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 173.] 
 
 4 Doctor Edward Tyson, 1650-1708, anatomical 
 lecturer in Surgeons' Hall, and physician to Beth- 
 lehem and Bridewell hospitals. He published The 
 Anatomy 0/ a Porpoise dissected at Gresham 
 College, and The Anatomy 0/ a Pigmy compared 
 with a Monkey, an Ape, and a Man, 4*0, 1698- 
 99. 5 [See ante, p. 341.] 
 
 iSth. I went to London, to visit the 
 Duchess of Grafton, now great with child, 
 a most virtuous and beautiful lady. * Dining 
 with her at my Lord Chamberlain's, met 
 my Lord of St. Albans, 2 now grown so 
 blind, that he could not see to take his 
 meat. He has lived a most easy life, in 
 plenty even abroad, whilst his Majesty was 
 a sufferer ; he has lost immense sums at 
 play, which yet, at about eighty years old, 
 he continues, having one that sits by him 
 to name the spots on the cards. He eat 
 and drank with extraordinary appetite. He 
 is a prudent old courtier, and much enriched 
 since his Majesty's return. 
 
 After dinner, I walked to survey the 
 sad demolition of Clarendon House, that 
 costly and only sumptuous palace of the 
 late Lord Chancellor Hyde, where I have 
 often been so cheerful with him, and some- 
 times so sad : 3 happening to make him a 
 visit but the day before he fled from the 
 angry Parliament, 4 accusing him of mal- 
 administration, and being envious at his 
 grandeur, who from a private lawyer came 
 to be father-in-law to the Duke of York, 
 and as some would suggest, designing his 
 Majesty's marriage with the Infanta of 
 Portugal, not apt to breed. To this they 
 imputed much of our unhappiness ; and 
 that he, being sole minister and favourite 
 at his Majesty's restoration, neglected to 
 gratify the King's suffering party, preferring 
 those who were the cause of our troubles. 
 But perhaps as many of these things were 
 injuriously laid to his charge, so he kept 
 the government far steadier than it has 
 proved since. I could name some who I 
 think contributed greatly to his ruin, — the 
 buffoons and the mz'sses, to whom he was 
 an eye-sore. It is true he was of a jolly 
 temper, after the old English fashion ; but 
 France had now the ascendant, and we 
 were become quite another nation. The 
 Chancellor gone, and dying in exile, the 
 Earl his successor sold that which cost 
 ^"50,000 building, to the young Duke of 
 Albemarle for ^25,000, to pay debts which 
 how contracted remains yet a mystery, his 
 son being no way a prodigal. Some imagine 
 the Duchess his daughter had been charge- 
 able to him. However it were, this stately 
 palace is decreed to ruin, to support the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 322.] 2 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 347.] 4 [See ante, p. 260.] 
 
52 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1683 
 
 prodigious waste the Duke of Albemarle 
 had made of his estate, since the old man 
 died. He sold it to the highest bidder, 
 and it fell to certain rich bankers and 
 mechanics, who gave for it and the ground l 
 about it, .£35,000 ; they design a new town, 
 as it were, and a most magnificent piazza 
 [square]. It is said they have already 
 materials towards it with what they sold of 
 the house alone, more worth than what they 
 paid for it. See the vicissitudes of earthly 
 things ! I was astonished at this demoli- 
 tion, nor less at the little army of labourers 
 and artificers levelling the ground, laying 
 foundations, and contriving great buildings 
 at an expense of £200,000, if they perfect 
 their design. 2 
 
 igtk September. In my walks I stepped 
 into a goldbeater's workhouse, where he 
 showed me the wonderful ductility of that 
 spreading and oily metal. He said it must 
 be finer than the standard, such as was old 
 angel-gold, and that of such he had once 
 to the value of £100 stamped with the 
 agnus dez, and coined at the time of the 
 holy war ; which had been found in a 
 ruined wall somewhere in the north, near 
 to Scotland, some of which he beat into 
 leaves, and the rest sold to the curiosi in 
 antiquities and medals. 
 
 2.yd. We had now the welcome tidings 
 
 1 [According to the Rate-Books of St. Martin's 
 there were, in 1688, 24 acres of land attached to the 
 house.] 
 
 2 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated Sayes 
 Court, 20th January, 1665-66, Evelyn, having then 
 just returned from a visit to Clarendon House, says : 
 " I went with prejudice and a critical spirit, incident 
 to those who fancy they know anything in art ; I 
 acknowledge that I have never seene a nobler pile. 
 My old friend [Pratt, the architect, see p. 186] and 
 fellow-traveller (inhabitants and co-temporaries at 
 Rome) has perfectly acquitted himself. It is, with- 
 out hyperbole, the best contrived, the most usefull, 
 gracefull, and magnificent house in England ; I 
 except not Audley End, which, though larger and 
 full of gaudy barbarous ornaments, does not gratifie 
 judicious spectators. Here is state and use, solidity 
 and beauty, most symmetrically combined together. 
 Nothing abroad pleases me better, nothing at home 
 approaches it. I have no designe to gratifie the 
 architect beyond what I am obliged as a professed 
 honorer of virtue wheresoever 'tis conspicuous ; but 
 when I had seriously contemplated every roome (for 
 I went into 'em all, from the cellar to the platforme 
 on the roofe), seene how well and judiciously the 
 walls were erected, the arches cut and turn'd, the 
 timber brac'd, their scantlings and contignations 
 disposed, I was most highly satisfied, and do 
 acknowledge myselfe to have much improv'd by 
 what I observ'd." 
 
 of the King of Poland raising the siege of 
 Vienna, which had given terror to all 
 Europe, and utmost reproach to the French, 
 who it is believed brought in the Turks for 
 diversion, that the French King might the 
 more easily swallow Flanders, and pursue 
 his unjust conquest on the empire, whilst 
 we sat unconcerned and under a deadly 
 charm from somebody. 1 
 
 There was this day a collection for re- 
 building Newmarket, consumed by an 
 accidental fire, which removing his Majesty 
 thence sooner than was intended, put by the 
 assassins, who were disappointed of their 
 rendezvous and expectation by a wonderful 
 providence. 2 This made the King more 
 earnest to render Winchester the seat of his 
 autumnal field diversions for the future, 
 designing a palace there, 3 where the ancient 
 castle stood ; infinitely indeed preferable to 
 Newmarket for prospects, air, pleasure, 
 and provisions. The surveyor has al- 
 ready begun the foundation for a palace, 
 estimated to cost ,£35,000, and his Majesty 
 is purchasing ground about it to make a 
 park, etc. 
 
 a,th October. I went to London, on receiv- 
 ing a note from the Countess of Arlington, of 
 some considerable charge or advantage I 
 might obtain by applying myself to his 
 Majesty on this signal conjuncture of his 
 Majesty entering-up judgment against the 
 City - charter ; the proposal made me I 
 wholly declined, not being well satisfied 
 with these violent transactions, and not a 
 little sorry that his Majesty was so often 
 put upon things of this nature against so 
 great a City, the consequence whereof 
 may be so much to his prejudice ; so I 
 returned home. At this time, the Lord 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 350. The siege of Vienna was 
 raised by John Sobieski, who defeated a Turkish 
 army, 100,000 strong, 12th September, 1683.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 342. " He was saved only by the 
 accident of the fire ; . . . which destroyed his palace 
 there [at Newmarket] and thus caused him to go 
 back to London a few days earlier than was ex- 
 pected " (Airy's Charles II., 1901, p. 265).] 
 
 3 [On the site of Winchester Castle. It was 
 planned by Wren after the model of Versailles, and 
 begun in March of this year. Part only was 
 finished at Charles's death ; and this part was 
 turned into a barracks in 1796, and burned down 
 in 1894. The King talked of the building in his 
 last days; and, according to Airy's Charles II., 
 1901, p. 261, ,£90,000 found in the strong-box after 
 his death, was supposed to be destined for it (see 
 post, under 16th September, 1685).] 
 
i68 3 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 353 
 
 Chief- Justice Pemberton was displaced. 1 
 He was held to be the most learned of the 
 judges, and an honest man. Sir George 
 Jeffreys 2 was advanced, reputed to be most 
 ignorant, but most daring. Sir George 
 Treby, 3 Recorder of London, was also put 
 by, and one Jenner, 4 an obscure lawyer, 
 set in his place. Eight of the richest and 
 chief aldermen were removed, and all the 
 rest made only justices of the peace, and no 
 more wearing of gowns, or chains of gold ; 
 the Lord Mayor and two Sheriffs holding 
 their places by new grants as atstodes, at 
 the King's pleasure. The pomp and 
 grandeur of the most august City in the 
 world thus changed face in a moment ; 
 which gave great occasion of discourse and 
 thoughts of hearts, what all this would 
 end in. Prudent men were for the old 
 foundations. 
 
 /Following his Majesty this morning 
 through the gallery, I went with the few 
 who attended him, into the Duchess of 
 Portsmouth's dressing-room within her bed- 
 chamber, where she was in her morning 
 loose garment, her maids combing her, 
 newly out of her bed, his Majesty and the 
 gallants standing about her ; but that which 
 engaged my curiosity was the rich and 
 splendid furniture of this woman's apart- 
 ment, 5 now twice or thrice pulled down 
 and rebuilt to satisfy her prodigal and 
 expensive pleasures, 6 whilst her Majesty's 
 does not exceed some gentlemen's ladies in 
 furniture and accommodation. I Here I saw 
 the new fabric of French tapestry, for design, 
 tenderness of work, and incomparable imita- 
 tion of the best paintings, beyond anything 
 I had ever beheld. Some pieces had Ver- 
 
 1 [Sir Francis Pemberton, 1625-97. He was dis- 
 placed for want of zeal against Lord Russell.] 
 
 2 [George Jeffreys, first Baron Jeffreys of Wem, 
 1648-89, who had been active in prosecuting Lord 
 Russell. Airy {Charles II., 1901, p. 233) calls him 
 " the wickedest man in English History "—Oates 
 only excepted.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 331.] 
 
 * [Sir Thomas Jenner, 1637-1707.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 302.] 
 
 6 [As to this Burnet writes to the Earl of Halifax 
 in March 1680 : *' The Raillerie in Whitehall is, upon 
 the Dutchess of Portsmouth's going to pull down her 
 Lodgings and to build them anew." Elsewhere he 
 says that the Duchess of Portsmouth procured the 
 King's going early to Windsor in May, " in order 
 to the pulling down her lodgings that tbey may be 
 rebuilt by Michelmas" {Unpublished Letters, 
 Camden Miscellany, 3rd series, vol. xiii. (1907), 
 pp. 15, 28).] 
 
 sailles, St. Germain, and other palaces of 
 the French King, with huntings, figures, 
 and landscapes, exotic fowls, and all to the 
 life rarely done. Then for Japan cabinets, 
 screens, pendule clocks, great vases of 
 wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney- 
 furniture, sconces, branches braseras, 1 etc., 
 all of massy silver and out of number, besides 
 some of her Majesty's best paintings. 
 
 Surfeiting of this, I dined at Sir Stephen 
 Fox's 2 and went contented home to my 
 poor, but quiet villa. What contentment 
 can there be in the riches and splendour 
 of this world, purchased with vice and 
 dishonour ? 
 
 10th October. Visited the Duchess of 
 Grafton, 3 not yet brought to bed, and 
 dining with my Lord Chamberlain (her 
 father), went with them to see Montagu 
 House, 4 a palace lately built by Lord 
 Montagu, who had married the most 
 beautiful Countess of Northumberland. 5 
 It is a stately and ample palace. Signor 
 Verrio's fresco paintings, especially the 
 funeral pile of Dido, on the staircase, the 
 labours of Hercules, fight with the Centaurs, 
 his effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apo- 
 theosis or reception among the Gods, on 
 the walls and roof of the great room above, 
 — I think exceeds anything he has yet done, 
 both for design, colouring, and exuberance 
 of invention, comparable to the greatest of 
 the old masters, or what they so celebrate 
 at Rome. In the rest of the chamber are 
 some excellent paintings of Holbein, and 
 other masters. The garden is large, and 
 in good air, but the fronts of the house not 
 answerable to the inside. The court at 
 entry, and wings for offices seem too near 
 the street, and that so very narrow and 
 meanly built, that the corridor is not in 
 proportion to the rest, to hide the court 
 from being overlooked by neighbours ; all 
 which might have been prevented, had they 
 placed the house further into the ground, of 
 
 1 Brasiere : — "a large vessel, or moving-hearth of 
 silver, for coals, transportable into any room, much 
 used in Spain " (Evelyn's Fop-Dictionary, 1690). 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 342.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p, 351. 1 
 
 4 See ante, p. 322, and post, under 19th January, 
 1686. 
 
 5 See ante, p. 304. He succeeded as Baron 
 Montagu in 1684. His wife was Lady Elizabeth, 
 daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of South- 
 ampton, widow of Josceline Percy, the eleventh 
 and last Earl of Northumberland (of that family). 
 
 2A 
 
354 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [168 
 
 which there was enough to spare. But on 
 the whole it is a fine palace, built after the 
 French pavilion-way, by Mr. Hooke, the 
 Curator of the Royal Society. There were 
 with us my Lady Scroope, the great wit, 
 and Monsieur Chardin, 1 the celebrated 
 traveller. 
 
 1 y/i October. Came to visit me my old and 
 worthy friend, Mr. Packer, 2 bringing with 
 him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the 
 honest judge. A most ingenious, virtuous, 
 and religious gentleman, seated near Wor- 
 cester, 3 and very curious in gardening. 
 
 ijth. I was at the court -leet of this 
 manor, 4 my Lord Arlington his Majesty's 
 High-Steward. 
 
 26th. Came to visit and dine with me, 
 Mr. Brisbane, 5 Secretary to the Admiralty, 
 a learned and agreeable man. 
 
 30M. I went to Kew to visit Sir Henry 
 Capel, brother to the late Earl of Essex ; 6 
 but he being gone to Cashiobury, after I 
 had seen his garden 7 and the alterations 
 therein, I returned home. He had repaired 
 his house, roofed his hall with a kind of 
 cupola, and in a niche was an artificial 
 fountain ; but the room seems to me over- 
 melancholy, yet might be much improved 
 by having the walls well painted d, fresco. 
 The two green -houses for oranges and 
 myrtles communicating with the rooms be- 
 low, are very well contrived. There is a 
 cupola made with pole-work between two 
 elms at the end of a walk, which being 
 covered by plashing 8 the trees to them, is 
 very pretty ; for the rest there are too 
 many fir trees in the garden. 
 
 i'jth November. I took a house in 
 Villiers Street, York Buildings, for the 
 winter, having many important concerns 
 to dispatch, and for the education of my 
 daughters. 
 
 2$rd. The Duke of Monmouth, till 
 now proclaimed traitor on the pretended 
 plot for which Lord Russell was lately 
 beheaded, came this evening to Whitehall 
 and rendered himself, on which were 
 various discourses. 
 
 26th.. I went to compliment the Duchess 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 327.] 
 
 2 [See a7ite, p. 169.] 3 [At Groomsbridge.] 
 
 4 [The manor of Deptford-le-Strond, alias West 
 ■Greenwich.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 334.] 6 [See ante, p. 255.] 
 7 Archaologia, vol. xii. p. 185. 8 [Plaiting.] 
 
 of Grafton, now lying-in of her first child, 
 a son, 1 which she called for, that I might 
 see it. She was become more beautiful, 
 if it were possible, than before, and full of 
 virtue and sweetness. She discoursed with 
 me of many particulars, with great pru- 
 dence and gravity beyond her years. 
 
 2tyh. Mr. Forbes showed me the plot 
 of the garden making at Burghley, 2 at my 
 Lord Exeter's, which I looked on as one 
 of the most noble that I had seen. 
 
 The whole court and town in solemn 
 mourning for the death of the King of 
 Portugal, her Majesty's brother. 3 
 
 10th. At the anniversary dinner of the 
 Royal Society the King sent us two does. 
 Sir Cyril Wyche 4 was elected President. 
 
 $th December. I was this day invited to 
 a wedding of one Mrs. Castle, to whom I 
 had some obligation, and it was to her 
 fifth husband, a Lieutenant-Colonel of the 
 City. She was the daughter of one Burton, 
 a broom-man, by his wife, who sold kitchen- 
 stuff in Kent Street, whom God so blessed 
 that the father became a very rich, and was 
 a very honest man ; he was sheriff of Surrey, 5 
 where I have sat on the bench with him. 
 Another of his daughters was married to 
 Sir John Bowles ; and this daughter was a 
 jolly friendly woman. There was at the 
 wedding the Lord Mayor, the Sheriff, 
 several Aldermen and persons of quality ; 
 above all, Sir George Jeffreys, newly made 
 Lord Chief-Justice of England, 6 with Mr. 
 Justice Wythens, danced with the bride, 
 and were exceeding merry. These great 
 men spent the rest of the afternoon, tiU 
 eleven at night, in drinking healths, taking 
 tobacco, and talking much beneath the 
 gravity of Judges, who had but a day 
 or two before condemned Mr. Algernon 
 Sidney, 7 who was executed the 7th on 
 Tower- Hill, on the single witness of that 
 
 1 Charles, who succeeded his father, mortally 
 wounded in 1690 at the siege of Cork. This son 
 was Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Chamber- 
 Iain, Privy Councillor, K.G., etc., in the reigns of 
 Anne, George I., and George II. There is a fine 
 whole-length mezzotinto of him by Faber. 
 
 2 [Burghley House, on the Wetland, near Stam- 
 ford—the " Burleigh-house by Stamford- town" of 
 Tennyson's Lord of Burleigh.] 
 
 3 [Alphonso VI., d. 12th September, 1683.] 
 
 4 [Sir Cyril Wyche, 1632 -1707. He married 
 Evelyn's niece (see under 15th May, 1692).] 
 
 5 In 1673. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 353.] 7 [See ante, p. 348.] 
 
i68 4 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 355 
 
 monster of a man, Lord Howard of Escrick, 
 and some sheets of paper taken in Mr. 
 Sidney's study, pretended to be written by 
 him, but not fully proved, nor the time 
 when, but appearing to have been written 
 before his Majesty's restoration, and then 
 pardoned by the Act of Oblivion ; so that 
 though Mr. Sidney was known to be a 
 person obstinately averse to government 
 by a monarch (the subject of the paper 
 was in answer to one by Sir E. Filmer), 
 yet it was thought he had very hard 
 measure. There is this yet observable, 
 that he had been an inveterate enemy to 
 the last king, and in actual rebellion 
 against him ; a man of great courage, great 
 sense, great parts, which he showed both 
 at his trial and death ; for, when he came 
 on the scaffold, instead of a speech, he 
 told them only that he had made his peace 
 with God, that he came not thither to talk, 
 but to die ; put a paper into the sheriffs 
 hand, and another into a friend's ; said one 
 prayer as short as a grace, laid down his 
 neck, and bid the executioner do his office. 
 
 The Duke of Monmouth, now having 
 his pardon, refuses to acknowledge there 
 was any treasonable plot ; for which he is 
 banished Whitehall. This was a great 
 disappointment to some who had prose- 
 cuted Trenchard, Hampden, etc., that for 
 want of a second witness were come out 
 of the Tower upon their habeas corpus. 
 
 The King had now augmented his guards 
 with a new sort of dragoons, 1 who carried 
 also grenadoes, and were habited after the 
 Polish manner, with long peaked caps, 
 very fierce and fantastical. 
 
 7%h December. I went to the Tower, and 
 visited the Earl of Danby, the late Lord 
 High Treasurer, who had been imprisoned 
 four years ; 2 he received me with great 
 kindness. I dined with him, and stayed till 
 night. We had discourse of many things, 
 his Lady railing sufficiently at the keeping 
 her husband so long in prison. Here I 
 saluted the Lord Dunblane's wife, 3 who 
 before had been married to Emerton, and 
 about whom there was that scandalous 
 business before the delegates. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 312.] 2 [See ante, p. 156.] 
 
 3 Peregrine Osborne, Viscount Dunblane, 1658- 
 1729, youngest son of the Earl of Danby, so created 
 in his father's lifetime, and afterwards inheritor of 
 his title and estate. 
 
 2yd. The small -pox very prevalent 
 and mortal ; the Thames frozen. 
 
 26th. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, 
 where I was to meet that ingenious and 
 learned gentleman, Sir George Wheler, 1 
 who has published the excellent description 
 of Africa and Greece, and who, being a 
 knight of a very fair estate and young, had 
 now newly entered into Holy Orders. 
 
 27M. I went to visit Sir John Chardin, 2 
 a French gentleman, who had travelled 
 three times by land into Persia, and had 
 made many curious researches in his travels, 
 of which he was now setting forth a relation. 
 It being in England this year one of the 
 severest frosts that has happened of many 
 years, he told me the cold in Persia was 
 much greater, the ice of an incredible 
 thickness ; that they had little use of iron 
 in all that country, it being so moist 
 (though the air admirably clear and healthy) 
 that oil would not preserve it from rusting, 
 so that they had neither clocks nor watches ; 
 some padlocks they had for doors and 
 boxes. 
 
 2pth. Dr. Sprat, 3 now made Dean of 
 Westminster, preached to the King at 
 Whitehall, on Matt. vi. 24. Recollecting 
 the passages of the past year, I gave God 
 thanks for his mercies, praying his bless- 
 ing for the future. 
 
 1683-4 : 1st January. The weather con- 
 tinuing intolerably severe, streets of booths 
 were set upon the Thames ; the air was so 
 very cold and thick, as of many years there 
 had not been the like. The small-pox was 
 very mortal. 
 
 2nd. I dined at Sir Stephen Fox's : 
 after dinner came a fellow who eat live 
 charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching 
 them in his mouth, and then champing 
 and swallowing them down. 4 There was a 
 dog also which seemed to do many rational 
 actions. 
 
 6th. The river quite frozen. 5 
 
 gth. I went across the Thames on 
 
 1 [Sir George Wheler, 1650- 1725. His travels 
 took place 1673-76, and he was knighted in 1682, 
 in which year he published his Journey into Greece. 
 He became Rector of Houghton- le-Spring, Dur- 
 ham, in 1709 (see post, under 24th October, 1686).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 327.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 267.] 
 
 4 [Cf. Richardson, ante, p. 288.] 
 
 5 [There are several contemporary representations 
 of this "prodigious Frost."] 
 
356 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1684 
 
 the ice, now become so thick as to bear 
 not only streets of booths, in which they 
 roasted meat, and had divers shops of 
 wares, quite across as in a town, but 
 coaches, carts, and horses passed over. 
 So I went from Westminster -stairs to 
 Lambeth, and dined with the Archbishop: 1 
 where I met my Lord Bruce, 2 Sir George 
 Wheler, Colonel Cooke, and several 
 divines. After dinner and discourse with 
 his Grace till evening prayers, Sir George 
 Wheler and I walked over the ice from 
 Lambeth-stairs to the Horse-ferry. 
 
 \oth January. I visited Sir Robert Read- 
 ing, 3 where after supper we had music, 
 but not comparable to that which Mrs. 
 Bridgeman made us on the guitar with 
 such extraordinary skill and dexterity. 
 
 16M. The Thames was filled with 
 people and tents, selling all sorts of wares 
 as in the City. 
 
 24//;. The frost continuing more and 
 more severe, the Thames before London 
 was still planted with booths in formal 
 streets, all sorts of trades and shops fur- 
 nished, and full of commodities, even to a 
 printing-press, where the people and ladies 
 took a fancy to have their names printed, 
 and the day and year set down when 
 printed on the Thames : 4 this humour 
 took so universally, that it was estimated 
 the printer gained ^5 a day, for printing 
 a line only, at sixpence a name, besides 
 what he got by ballads, etc. Coaches 
 plied from Westminster to the Temple, 
 and from several other stairs to and fro, 
 as in the streets, sleds, sliding with skates, 
 a bull - baiting, horse and coach - races, 
 puppet-plays and interludes, cooks, tip- 
 pling, and other lewd places, so that it 
 seemed to be a bacchanalian triumph, or 
 carnival on the water, whilst it was a 
 severe judgment on the land, the trees not 
 only splitting as if lightning -struck, but 
 men and cattle perishing in divers places, 
 and the very seas so locked up with ice, 
 that no vessels could stir out or come in. 
 The fowls, fish, and birds, and all our 
 exotic plants and greens, universally perish- 
 
 1 [Dr. Sancroft.] ' 2 [See ante, p. 122.] 
 
 3 [See an'e, p. 313.] 
 
 4 [Bray thus describes one of these cards of Frost 
 Fair. "Within a treble border, ' Mons r et Mad™ 
 Justel. Printed on the River of Thames being 
 frozen. In the 36th year of King Charles the II., 
 February the 5th, 1683.'" 
 
 ing. Many parks. of deer were destroyed, 
 and all sorts of fuel so dear, that there 
 were great contributions to preserve the 
 poor alive. Nor was this severe weather 
 much less intense in most parts of Europe, 
 even as far as Spain and the most southern 
 tracts. London, by reason of the exces- 
 sive coldness of the air hindering the 
 ascent of the smoke, was so filled with 
 the fuliginous steam of the sea-coal, that 
 hardly could one see across the streets, 
 and this filling the lungs with its gross 
 particles, exceedingly obstructed the breast, 
 so as one could scarcely breathe. Here 
 was no water to be had from the pipes 
 and engines, nor could the brewers and 
 divers other tradesmen work, and every 
 moment was full of disastrous accidents. 
 
 dfth February. I went to Sayes Court 
 to see how the frost had dealt with my 
 garden, where I found many of the greens 
 and rare plants utterly destroyed. The 
 oranges and myrtles very sick, the rose- 
 mary and laurels dead to all appearance, 
 but the cypress likely to endure it. 1 
 
 $th. It began to thaw, but froze again. 
 My coach crossed from Lambeth to the 
 Horse - ferry at Millbank, Westminster. 
 The booths were almost all taken down ; 
 but there was first a map or landscape cut 
 in copper representing all the manner of 
 the camp, and the several actions, sports, 
 and pastimes thereon, in memory of so 
 signal a frost. 
 
 Jtk. I dined with my Lord Keeper 
 [North], 2 and walking alone with him 
 some time in his gallery, we had discourse 
 of music. He told me he had been brought 
 up to it from a child, so as to sing his part 
 at first sight. Then speaking of painting, 
 of which he was also a great lover, and 
 other ingenious matters, he desired me to 
 come oftener to him. 
 
 2>th. I went this evening to visit that 
 great and knowing virtuoso, Monsieur 
 Justel. 3 The weather was set in to an 
 
 1 [He gives details of the devastation in his letter 
 to the Royal Society (see post, p. 358). The 
 severe weather even killed his tortoise.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 285.] 
 
 3 Henry Justel, 1620-93, created D.C.L. by the 
 University of Oxford in 1675, on presenting to the 
 -Bodleian the MSS. of his father, Christopher 
 Justel, a learned writer on ecclesiastical antiquities. 
 Both were born in France ; but the son fled to 
 England to avoid persecution as a Protestant, and 
 
i68 4 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 357 
 
 absolute thaw and rain ; but the Thames 
 still frozen. 
 
 loth February. After eight weeks miss- 
 ing the foreign posts, there came abundance 
 of intelligence from abroad. 
 
 \ith. The Earl of Danby, late Lord 
 Treasurer, together with the Roman 
 Catholic Lords impeached of high treason 
 in the Popish Plot, had now their habeas 
 corpus^ and came out upon bail, after five 
 years' imprisonment in the Tower. 1 Then 
 were also tried and deeply fined Mr. 
 Hampden 2 and others, for being supposed 
 of the late plot, for which Lord Russell 
 and Colonel Sidney suffered ; as also the 
 person who went about to prove that the 
 Earl of Essex had his throat cut in the 
 Tower by others ; likewise Mr. Johnson, 
 the author of that famous piece called 
 Julian* 
 
 l$th. News of the Prince of Orange 
 having accused the Deputies of Amsterdam 
 of crimen Icesce Majestatis> and being 
 pensioners to France. 
 
 Dr. Tenison 4 communicated to me his 
 intention of erecting a library 5 in St. 
 Martin's parish, for the public use, and 
 desired my assistance, with Sir Christopher 
 Wren, about the placing and structure 
 thereof, a worthy and laudable design. 
 He told me there were thirty or forty 
 young men in orders in his parish, either 
 governors to young gentlemen or chaplains 
 to noblemen, who being reproved by him 
 on occasion for frequenting taverns or 
 
 was appointed Keeper of the King's Library at St. 
 James's. He published his father's Bibliotheca 
 Juris Canonici Veteris in 1661. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 355.] 2 [See ante, p. 348.] 
 
 3 Samuel Johnson, 1649-1703, a clergyman, and 
 the "Ben Jochanan " of Dryden, who was dis- 
 tinguished by the rigour of his writings against 
 the Court ; particularly by his Julian the Apostate 
 (1683), directed at the Duke of York, a recent 
 convert to Popery. For these he was fined, im- 
 prisoned, put in the pillory, whipped at the cart's 
 tail, and degraded from the priesthood : neverthe- 
 less, he was not silenced ; and he lived to see the 
 Revolution, which placed William of Orange on 
 the throne ; whereupon he received a present of 
 ,£1000, and a pension of ,£300 per annum, for the 
 joint lives of himself and his son. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 330.] 
 
 5 [It was in Castle Street, St. Martin's Lane. 
 Wren designed it. It was the first public library 
 in London. In June, 1861, the books (4000 volumes) 
 were sold in aid of the endowment of the Tenison 
 School, now located on the site of Hogarth's old 
 house on the east side of the Fields. They brought 
 nearly ^2000.] 
 
 coffee-houses, told him they would study 
 or employ their time better, if they had 
 books. This put the pious Doctor on this 
 design ; and indeed a great reproach it is 
 that so great a city as London should not 
 have a public library becoming it. There 
 ought to be one at St. Paul's ; the west 
 end of that church (if ever finished) would 
 be a convenient place. 
 
 2$rd. I went to Sir John Chardin, 1 
 who desired my assistance for the engrav- 
 ing the plates, the translation, and printing 
 his History of that wonderful Persian 
 Monument near Persepolis, and other rare 
 antiquities, which he had caused to be 
 drawn from the originals in his second 
 journey into Persia, which we now con- 
 cluded upon. Afterwards, I went with 
 Sir Christopher Wren to Dr. Tenison, 
 where we made the drawing and estimate 
 of the expense of the library, to be begun 
 this next spring near the Mews. 2 
 
 Great expectation of the Prince of 
 Orange's attempts in Holland to bring 
 those of Amsterdam to consent to the new 
 levies, to which we were no friends, by 
 a pseudo-politic adherence to the French 
 interest. 
 
 26th. Came to visit me Dr. Turner, our 
 new Bishop of Rochester. 3 
 
 28th. I dined at Lady Tuke's, where I 
 heard Dr. Wallgrave 4 (physician to the 
 Duke and Duchess) play excellently on the 
 lute. 
 
 7th March. Dr. Meggot, Dean of Win- 
 chester, 5 preached an incomparable sermon 
 (the King being now gone to Newmarket), 
 on Heb. xii. "15, showing and pathetically 
 pressing the care we ought to have lest 
 we come short of the grace of God. After- 
 wards, I went to visit Dr. Tenison at 
 Kensington, whither he was retired to 
 refresh, after he had been sick of the 
 small-pox. 
 
 1 5M. At Whitehall preached Mr. Henry 
 Godolphin, 6 a prebend of St. Paul's, and 
 brother to my dear friend Sidney, on Isaiah 
 Iv. 7. I dined at the Lord Keeper's, and 
 brought him to Sir John Chardin, who 
 showed him his accurate drafts of his 
 travels in Persia. 7 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 327.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 347.] 
 5 [See ante, p. 245.] 
 7 [See ante, p. 327.] 
 
 2 [See ante, 15th Feb.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 297.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 321.] 
 
358 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1684 
 
 28M March. There was so great a con- 
 course of people with their children to be 
 touched for the evil, 1 that six or seven were 
 crushed to death by pressing at the chirur- 
 geon's door for tickets. The weather 
 began to be more mild and tolerable ; but 
 there was not the least appearance of any 
 spring. 
 
 30M. Easter - day. The Bishop of 
 Rochester 2 preached before the King ; 
 after which his Majesty, accompanied with 
 three of his natural sons, the Dukes 
 of Northumberland, Richmond, and St. 
 Albans (sons of Portsmouth, Cleveland, 
 and Nelly), went up to the altar ; the three 
 boys entering before the King within the 
 rails, at the right hand, and three Bishops 
 on the left, viz. London (who officiated), 
 Durham, and Rochester, with the Sub- 
 dean, Dr. Holder. The King, kneeling 
 before the altar, making his offering, the 
 Bishops first received, and then his Majesty ; 
 after which he retired to a canopied seat 
 on the right hand. Note, there was 
 perfume burnt before the office began. I 
 had received the sacrament at Whitehall 
 early with the Lords and Household, the 
 Bishop of London officiating. Then went 
 to St. . Martin's, where Dr. Tenison 
 preached (recovered from the small-pox) ; 
 then went again to Whitehall as above. 
 In the afternoon, went to St. Martin's 
 again. 
 
 ajh April. I returned home with my 
 family to my house at Sayes Court, after 
 five months' residence in London ; hardly 
 the least appearance of any spring. 
 
 loth. A letter of mine to the Royal 
 Society concerning the terrible effects of 
 the past winter being read, they desired it 
 might be printed in the next part of their 
 Transactions? 
 
 loth May. I went to visit my brother 
 in Surrey. Called by the way at Ashtead, 
 where Sir Robert Howard (Auditor of the 
 Exchequer) entertained me very civilly at 
 his new-built house, which stands in a park 
 on the Down, 4 the avenue south ; though 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Turner (see ante, p. 357).] 
 
 3 This was done {Philosophical Transactions, 
 No. 158, 1684, p. 559). There is an abstract of the 
 letter in Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, 
 pp. 692-96. 
 
 4 [Ashtead Estate was sold in 1680 by Henry 
 Howard, Duke of Norfolk, to Sir Robert Howard, 
 
 down hill to the house, which is not great, 
 but with the out-houses very convenient. 
 The staircase is painted by Verrio with 
 the story of Astrtea ; amongst other figures 
 is the picture of the Painter himself, and 
 not unlike him ; the rest is well done, only 
 the columns did not at all please me ; 
 there is also Sir Robert's own picture in 
 an oval ; the whole in fresco. The place 
 has this great defect, that there is no water 
 but what is drawn up by horses from a 
 very deep well* 
 
 nth. Visited Mr. Higham, 1 who was 
 ill, and died three days later. His grand- 
 father and father (who christened me), 
 with himself, had now been rectors of this 
 parish [Wotton] 101 years, viz. from May, 
 
 1583. 
 
 \2th. I returned to London, where I 
 
 found the Commissioners of the Admiralty 
 abolished, and the office of Admiral re- 
 stored to the Duke, as to the disposing 
 and ordering all sea business ; but his 
 Majesty signed all petitions, papers, war- 
 rants, and commissions, that the Duke, not 
 acting as admiral by commission or office 
 might not incur the penalty of the late Act 
 against Papists and Dissenters holding 
 offices, and refusing the oath and test. 
 Every one was glad of this change, those 
 in the late Commission being utterly 
 ignorant in their duty, to the great damage 
 of the Navy. 
 
 The utter ruin of the Low Country was 
 threatened by the siege of Luxemburg, if 
 not timely relieved, and by the obstinacy 
 of the Hollanders, who refused to assist 
 the Prince of Orange, being corrupted by 
 the French. 
 
 16th. I received ;£6oo of Sir Charles 
 BickerstafT for the fee-farm of Pilton, in 
 Devon. 
 
 26th. Lord Dartmouth was chosen 
 Master of the Trinity Company, newly 
 returned with the fleet from blowing up 
 and demolishing Tangier. 2 In the sermon 
 preached on this occasion, Dr. Can ob- 
 served that, in the 27th chapter of the 
 Acts of the Apostles, the casting anchor 
 
 sixth son of Thomas, first Earl of Berkeley. He 
 built a new house near the old mansion of the 
 Howards, where he was visited by Charles II., 
 James II., and William III. This was pulled 
 down in the last quarter of the eighteenth century 
 and another took its place.] 
 1 [See ante, p. 172.] 2 [See ante, p. 345-] 
 
1684] 
 
 THE D1AR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 359 
 
 out of the foreship had been cavilled at as 
 betraying total ignorance : that it is very 
 true our seamen do not do so ; but in 
 the Mediterranean their ships were built 
 differently from ours, and to this day it 
 was the practice to do so there. 
 
 Luxemburg was surrendered to the 
 French, which makes them masters of all 
 the Netherlands, gives them entrance into 
 Germany, and a fair game for universal 
 monarchy ; which that we should suffer, 
 who only and easily might have hindered, 
 astonished all the world. Thus is the 
 poor Prince of Orange ruined, and this 
 nation and all the Protestant interest in 
 Europe following, unless God in His 
 infinite mercy, as by a miracle, interpose, 
 and our great ones alter their counsels. 
 The French fleet were now besieging 
 Genoa, but after burning much of that 
 beautiful city with their bombs, went off 
 with disgrace. 
 
 i\th June. My cousin, Verney, to 
 whom a very great fortune was fallen, 
 came to take leave of us, going into the 
 country ; a very worthy and virtuous young 
 gentleman. 
 
 12th. I went to advise and give direc- 
 tions about the building two streets in 
 Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house 
 and as much of the garden as. the breadth 
 of the house. In the meantime, I could 
 not but deplore that sweet place 1 (by far 
 the most noble gardens, courts, and accom- 
 modations, stately porticoes, etc. , anywhere 
 about the town) should be so much 
 straitened and turned into tenements. 
 But that magnificent pile and gardens 
 contiguous to it, built by the late Lord 
 Chancellor Clarendon, being all demol- 
 ished, and designed for piazzas and build- 
 ings, 2 was some excuse for my Lady 
 Berkeley's resolution of letting out her 
 ground also for so excessive a price as was 
 offered, advancing near ^"iooo per annum 
 in mere ground-rents ; to such a mad 
 intemperance was the age come of building 
 about a city, by far too disproportionate 
 already to the nation ; I having in my time 
 seen it almost as large again as it was 
 within my memory. 
 
 22nd. Last Friday, Sir Thomas Arm- 
 strong was executed at Tyburn for treason, 
 
 1 [Berkeley House (see ante, p. 244).] 
 - [See ante., p. 351.] 
 
 without trial, having been outlawed and 
 apprehended in Holland, on the conspiracy 
 of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Russell, 
 etc., which gave occasion of discourse to 
 people and lawyers, in regard it was on an 
 outlawry that judgment was given and 
 execution. 1 
 
 2nd July. I went to the Observatory at 
 Greenwich, where Mr. Flamsteed 2 took 
 his observations of the eclipse of the sun, 
 now almost three parts obscured. 
 
 There had been an excessive hot and 
 dry spring, and such a drought still con- 
 tinued as never was in my memory. 
 
 ipk. Some small sprinkling of rain ; 
 the leaves dropping from the trees as in 
 autumn. 
 
 2$tk. I dined at Lord Falkland's, 3 
 Treasurer of the Navy, where after dinner 
 we had rare music, there being amongst 
 others, Signor Pietro Reggio, and Signor 
 John Baptist, both famous, one for his 
 voice, the other for playing on the harpsi- 
 chord, few if any in Europe exceeding 
 him. There was also a Frenchman who 
 sang an admirable bass. 
 
 26th. I returned home, where I found 
 my Lord Chief - Justice [Jeffreys], the 
 Countess of Clarendon, and Lady Catherine 
 Fitzgerald, who dined with me. 
 
 10th August. We had now rain after 
 such a drought as no man in England had 
 known. 
 
 24/^. Excessive hot. We had not had 
 above one or two considerable showers, 
 and those storms, these eight or nine 
 months. Many trees died for the want of 
 refreshment. 
 
 31 st. Mr. Sidney Godolphin was made 
 Baron Godolphin. 
 
 26th September. The King being re- 
 turned from Winchester, there was a 
 numerous Court at Whitehall. 
 
 At this time the Earl of Rochester was 
 
 1 See ante, p. 347. When brought up for judg- 
 ment, Armstrong insisted on his right to a trial, 
 the Act giving that right to those who came in 
 within a year, and the year not having expired. 
 Jeffreys refused it; "and when Armstrong in- 
 sisted, that he asked nothing but the law, Jefferies 
 in his brutal way said, he should have it to the 
 full ; and so ordered his execution within six days." 
 When Jeffreys went to the King at Windsor soon 
 after, the King took a ring from his finger and 
 gave it to Jeffreys (Burnet's History of His Own 
 Time, 1724, i. pp. 579-80). 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 350.] 3 [See ante, p. 346.] 
 
360 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1684 
 
 removed from the Treasury to the President- 
 ship of the Council ; Lord Godolphin was 
 made first Commissioner of the Treasury 
 in his place ; Lord Middleton (a Scot) 1 
 made Secretary of State, in the room of 
 Lord Godolphin. These alterations being 
 very unexpected and mysterious, gave great 
 occasion of discourse. 
 
 There was now an Ambassador from the 
 King of Siam, in the East Indies, to his 
 Majesty. 
 
 22nd October. I went with Sir William 
 Godolphin to see the rhinoceros, or uni- 
 corn, being the first that I suppose was 
 ever brought into England. She belonged 
 to some East India merchants, and was 
 sold (as I remember) for above ^"2000. 
 At the same time, I went to see a 
 crocodile, brought from some of the West 
 India Islands, resembling the Egyptian 
 crocodile. 
 
 2\th. I dined at Sir Stephen Fox's 
 with the Duke of Northumberland. 2 He 
 seemed to be a young gentleman of good 
 capacity, well-bred, civil, and modest: 
 newly come from travel, and had made 
 his campaign at the siege of Luxemburg. 
 Of all his Majesty's children (of which he 
 had now six Dukes) this seemed the most 
 accomplished and worth the owning. He 
 is extraordinary handsome and well-shaped. 
 What the Dukes of Richmond and St. 
 Albans will prove, their youth does not 
 discover ; they are very pretty boys. 
 
 26M. Dr. Goodman preached before 
 the King on James ii. 12, concerning the 
 law of liberty : an excellent discourse and 
 in good method. He is author of The 
 Prodigal Son, a treatise worth reading, 
 and another of the old religion. 
 
 27th. I visited the Lord Chamberlain, 
 where dined the black Baron and Monsieur 
 Flamerin, who had so long been banished 
 France for a duel. 
 
 28M. I carried Lord Clarendon through 
 the City, amidst all the squibs and bac- 
 chanalia of the Lord Mayor's show, to 
 the Royal Society, where he was pro- 
 posed a member ; and then treated him at 
 dinner. 
 
 I went to St. Clement's, that pretty 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 256.] 
 
 2 [George FitzRoy, Duke of Northumberland, 
 1665-1716, youngest son of Charles II. by Lady 
 Castlemaine.] 
 
 built and contrived church, where a young 
 divine gave us an eloquent sermon on 
 1 Cor. vi. 20, inciting to gratitude and 
 glorifying God for the fabric of our bodies 
 and the dignity of our nature. 
 
 2nd November. A sudden change from 
 temperate warm weather to an excessive 
 cold rain, frost, snow, and storm, such as 
 had seldom been known. This winter 
 weather began as early and fierce as the 
 past did late ; till about Christmas there 
 then had been hardly any winter. 
 
 4//1. Dr. Turner, 1 now translated from 
 Rochester to Ely upon the death of Dr. 
 Peter Gunning, preached before the King 
 at Whitehall on Romans iii. 8, a very 
 excellent sermon, vindicating the Church 
 of England against the pernicious doctrines 
 of the Church of Rome. He challenged 
 the producing but of five clergymen who 
 forsook our Church and went over to that 
 of Rome, during all the troubles and 
 rebellion in England, which lasted near 
 twenty years ; and this was to my certain 
 observation a great truth. 
 
 i$tk. Being the Queen's birthday, 
 there were fireworks on the Thames before 
 Whitehall, with pageants of castles, forts, 
 and other devices of girandolas, 2 serpents, 
 the King and Queen's arms and mottoes, 
 all represented in fire, such as had not 
 been seen here. But the most remarkable 
 was the several fires and skirmishes in the 
 very water, which actually moved a long 
 way, burning under the water, now and 
 then appearing above it, giving reports like 
 muskets and cannon, with grenadoes and 
 innumerable other devices. It is said it 
 cost ^"1500. It was concluded with a ball, 
 where all the young ladies and gallants 
 danced, in the great hall. The court had 
 not been seen so brave and rich in apparel 
 since his Majesty's Restoration. 
 
 30//Z. In the morning, Dr. Fiennes, 
 son of the Lord Say and Sele, preached 
 before the King on Joshua xxi. II. 
 
 yd December. I carried Mr. Justel 3 
 and Mr. Slingsby (Master of the Mint) to 
 see Mr. Sheldon's collection of medals. 4 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 357.] 
 
 2 [Revolving fireworks. Lassels, Voyage of 
 Italy, 1670, vol. ii. p. 250, speaks of " the Giran- 
 dola and Jfreworkes on S. Peter's Eve, and divers 
 such like sacred triumphs."] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 356.] 
 
 4 [Mr. Ralph Sheldon, 1623-84, the antiquary.] 
 
i68 4 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 361 
 
 The series of Popes was rare, and so were 
 several amongst the moderns, especially 
 that of John Huss's martyrdom at Con- 
 stance ; of the Roman Emperors, Consulars, 
 some Greek, etc., in copper, gold, and 
 silver ; not many truly antique ; a medal- 
 lion of Otho, Paulus ^milius, etc., hardly 
 ancient. They were held at a price of 
 ;£iooo ; but not worth, I judge, above 
 £200. 
 
 yth Dece?nber. I went to see the new 
 church at St. James's, 1 elegantly built ; the 
 altar was especially adorned, the white mar- 
 ble enclosure curiously and richly carved, 
 the flowers and garlands about the walls by 
 Mr. Gibbons in wood ; a pelican with her 
 young at her breast, just over the altar in 
 the carved compartment and border, en- 
 vironing the purple velvet fringed with 
 I. H.S. richly embroidered, and most noble 
 plate, were given by Sir R. Geere, to the 
 value (as was said) of £2.00. There was 
 no altar anywhere in England, nor has 
 there been any abroad more handsomely 
 adorned. 
 
 ljth. Early in the morning I went into 
 St. James's Park to see three Turkish, or 
 Asian horses, newly brought over, and 
 now first showed to his Majesty. There 
 were four, but one of them died at sea, 
 being three weeks coming from Hamburgh. 
 They were taken from a Bashaw at the 
 siege of Vienna, at the late famous raising 
 that leaguer. 2 I never beheld so delicate 
 a creature as one of them was, of some- 
 what a bright bay, two white feet, a blaze ; 
 such a head, eyes, ears, neck, breast, 
 belly, haunches, legs, pasterns, and feet, 
 in all regards, beautiful, and proportioned 
 to admiration ; spirited, proud, nimble, 
 making halt, turning with that swiftness, 
 and in so small a compass, as was admir- 
 able. With all this so gentle and tractable 
 as called to mind what I remember Busbe- 
 quius speaks of them, to the reproach of 
 our grooms in Europe, who bring up their 
 horses so churlishly, as makes most of 
 them retain their ill habits. They trotted 
 
 1 [In Piccadilly, and built by Wren at the 
 expense of the Duke of St. Albans (see p. 205). It 
 was consecrated in July of this year. The carving 
 over the altar and the font are by Grinling Gibbons. 
 Wren was very much pleased with the internal 
 accommodation afforded.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 11. Scott uses the word in this 
 sense in ch. xxvi. of Old Mortality. ,] 
 
 like does, as if they did not feel the ground. 
 Five hundred guineas was demanded for 
 the first ; 300 for the second ; and 200 for 
 the third, which was brown. All of them 
 were choicely shaped, but the two last not 
 altogether so perfect as the first. 
 
 It was judged by the spectators, among 
 whom was the King, Prince of Denmark, 1 
 Duke of York, and several of the Court, 
 noble persons skilled in horses, especially 
 Monsieur Foubert 2 and his son (provost 
 masters of the Academy, and esteemed of 
 the best in Europe), that there were never 
 seen any horses in these parts to be com- 
 pared with them. Add to all this, the 
 furniture, consisting of embroidery on the 
 saddle, housings, quiver, bow, arrows, 
 scymitar, sword, mace, or battle-axe, d la 
 Turcisq ; the Bashaw's velvet mantle 
 furred with the most perfect ermine I ever 
 beheld ; all which, ironwork in common 
 furniture, being here of silver, curiously 
 wrought and double gilt, to an incredible 
 value. Such and so extraordinary was the 
 embroidery, that I never saw anything 
 approaching it. The reins and headstall 
 were of crimson silk, covered with chains 
 of silver gilt. There was also a Turkish 
 royal standard of a horse's tail, together 
 with all sorts of other caparisons belonging 
 to a general's horse, by which one may 
 estimate how gallantly and magnificently 
 those infidels appear in the field ; for 
 nothing could be seen more glorious. 
 The gentleman (a German) who rid the 
 horse, was in all this garb. They were 
 shod with iron made round and closed 
 at the heel, with a hole in the middle 
 about as wide as a shilling. The hoofs 
 most entire. 
 
 i8t/i. I went with Lord Cornwallis 3 
 to see the young gallants do their 
 exercise, Mr. Foubert having newly railed 
 in a minage, and fitted it for the academy. 
 There were the Dukes of Norfolk 4 
 and Northumberland, 5 Lord Newburgh, 
 and a nephew of (Duras) Earl of Fever- 
 sham. 6 The exercises were, 1, running 
 at the ring ; 2, flinging a javelin at a 
 Moor's head ; 3, discharging a pistol at 
 a mark ; lastly, taking up a gauntlet with 
 the point of a sword ; all these performed 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 350.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 210.] 
 5 [See ante, p. 360.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 336.] 
 4 [See ante, p. 128.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 302.] 
 
362 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 in full speed. The Duke of Northumber- 
 land hardly missed of succeeding in every 
 one, a dozen times, as I think. The 
 Duke of Norfolk did exceeding bravely. 
 Lords Newburgh and Duras seemed nothing 
 so dexterous. Here I saw the difference 
 of what the French call " bel homme h 
 cheval" and " bon homme & cheval" ; the 
 Duke of Norfolk being the first, that is 
 rather a fine person on a horse, the Duke 
 of Northumberland being both in perfec- 
 tion, namely, a graceful person and an 
 excellent rider. But the Duke of Norfolk 
 told me he had not been at this exercise 
 these twelve years before. There were in 
 the field the Prince of Denmark, 1 and the 
 Lord Lansdowne, son of the Earl of Bath, 2 
 who had been made a Count of the 
 Empire last summer for his service before 
 Vienna. 
 
 20M December. A villainous murder was 
 perpetrated by Mr. St. John, eldest son to 
 Sir Walter St. John, a worthy gentleman, 
 on a knight of quality, 3 in a tavern. The 
 offender was sentenced and reprieved. So 
 many horrid murders and duels were 
 committed about this time as were never 
 before heard of in England ; which gave 
 much cause of complaint and murmurings. 
 
 1684-5 : 1st January. It proved so sharp 
 weather, and so long and cruel a frost, that 
 the Thames was frozen across, but the 
 frost was often dissolved, and then froze 
 again. 
 
 llth. A young man preached upon St. 
 Luke xiii. 5, after the Presbyterian tedious 
 method and repetition. 
 
 24th. I dined at Lord Newport's, 4 who 
 has some excellent pictures, especially that 
 of Sir Thomas Hanmer, 5 by Vandyck, one 
 of the best he ever painted ; another of our 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 361.] 
 
 2 [See post, under 2nd September, 1701.] 
 
 3 Sir William Estcourt. The catastrophe arose 
 from a sudden quarrel, and great doubts arose 
 whether the offence was more than manslaughter ; 
 but St. John was advised to plead guilty, and then 
 had a pardon, for which he paid ;£i6oo. Exactly 
 one hundred years before, one of his family had 
 been tried for a similar offence and acquitted, but 
 he was obliged to go abroad, though he was after- 
 wards employed (Manning and Bray's Surrey, iii. 
 330, App. cxx.). 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 210.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 193. In 1838 the portrait here 
 mentioned was in the possession of Sir Henry 
 Bunbury, Bt. {Hanmer Correspondence, 1838, 
 P- 2).] 
 
 English Dobson's painting ; 1 but, above 
 all, Christ in the Virgin's lap, by Poussin, 
 an admirable piece ; with something of 
 most other famous hands. 
 
 25/^. Dr. Dove 2 preached before the 
 King. I saw this evening such a scene of 
 profuse gaming, and the King in the midst 
 of his three concubines, 3 as I have never 
 before seen — luxurious dallying and pro- 
 faneness. 
 
 2Jtk. I dined at Lord Sunderland's, 
 being invited to hear that celebrated voice 
 of Mr. Pordage, newly come from Rome ; 
 his singing was after the Venetian recita- 
 tive, as masterly as could be, and with an 
 excellent voice both treble and bass ; Dr. 
 Wallgrave accompanied it with his theorbo 
 lute, 4 on which he performed beyond 
 imagination, and is doubtless one of the 
 greatest masters in Europe on that charm- 
 ing instrument. Pordage is a priest, as 
 Mr. Bernard Howard 5 told me in private. 
 
 There was in the room where we dined, 
 and in his bedchamber, those incomparable 
 pieces of Columbus, a Flagellation, the 
 Grammar-school, the Venus and Adonis of 
 Titian ; and of Vandyck's that picture 6 
 of the late Earl of Digby (father of the 
 Countess of Sunderland), and Earl of Bed- 
 ford, Sir Kenelm Digby, and two ladies of 
 incomparable performance ; besides that 
 of Moses and the burning bush of Bassano, 
 and several other pieces of the best masters. 
 A marble head of M. Brutus, etc. 
 
 28th. I was invited to my Lord Arundel 
 of Wardour 7 (now newly released of his 
 six years' confinement in the Tower on 
 suspicion of the plot called Oates's Plot), 
 where after dinner the same Mr. Pordage 
 entertained us with his voice, that excellent 
 and stupendous artist, Signor John Baptist, 
 playing to it on the harpsichord. My 
 daughter Mary being with us, she also 
 sung to the great satisfaction of both the 
 masters, and a world of people of quality 
 present. 
 
 She did so also at my Lord Rochester's 
 the evening following, where we had the 
 
 1 William Dobson, 1610-46, a portrait painter, 
 who succeeded Vandyck in the employments he 
 held under Charles I. 
 
 2 [Henry Dove, 1640-95, Chaplain to Charles II.] 
 
 3 [The Duchess of Portsmouth, the Duchess of 
 Cleveland, and the Duchess Mazarin.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 297.] 5 [See ante, p. 222.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 317-] 7 [See ante, p. 202.] 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 363 
 
 French boy 1 so famed for his singing, 
 and indeed he had a delicate voice, and 
 had been well taught. I also heard Mrs. 
 Packer (daughter to my old friend) 2 sing 
 before his Majesty and the Duke, privately, 
 that stupendous bass, Gostling,^ accom- 
 panying her, but hers was so loud as took 
 away much of the sweetness. Certainly 
 never woman had a stronger or better ear 
 [voice ?], could she possibly have governed 
 it. She would do rarely in a large church 
 among the nuns. 
 
 dflh February. I went to London, hear- 
 ing his Majesty had been the Monday 
 before (2nd February) surprised in his bed- 
 chamber with an apoplectic fit, so that if, 
 by God's providence, Dr. King (that ex- 
 cellent chirurgeon as well as physician) 
 had not been accidentally present to 
 let him blood (having his lancet in his 
 pocket), his Majesty had certainly died that 
 moment ; which might have been of dire- 
 ful consequence, there being nobody else 
 present with the King save this Doctor 
 and one more, as I am assured. It was a 
 mark of the extraordinary dexterity, resolu- 
 tion, and presence of mind in the Doctor, 
 to let him blood in the very paroxysm, 
 without staying the coming of other physic- 
 ians, which regularly should have been 
 done, and for want of which he must have 
 a regular pardon, as they tell me. 4 This 
 
 1 [Francois Duperrier. Macaulay, who does not 
 give his name, says he was Duchess Mazarin's 
 page.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 169.] 
 
 3 (John Gostling, d. 1733, of the Chapel Royal, 
 for whom Purcell wrote the anthem, " They that 
 go down to the sea in ships."] 
 
 4 [To Evelyn's hearsay account may be ap- 
 pended that of an eminently truthful eye-witness, 
 Thomas Bruce (afterwards second Earl of Ailes- 
 bury), a gentleman of the Bedchamber. On this 
 particular morning the King had risen unwell, and 
 gone to his private closet for a favourite remedy. 
 The day was bitterly cold. Returning to his 
 room, at the urgent solicitation of his scared at- 
 tendants, he seemed " not to mind what was said " 
 or to " have the liberty of his tongue." Bruce goes 
 on: — "It being shaving day, his barber told him 
 all was ready. He always sat with his knees 
 against the window, and the barber, having fixed 
 the linen on one side, went behind the chair to do 
 the same on the other, and I, standing close to the 
 chair, he fell into my arms in the most violent fit of 
 apoplexy. Doctor King, that had been a chirur- 
 geon, happened to be in the room of his own 
 accord, the rest having retired before. I asked 
 him if he had any lancets, and he replying he had, 
 I ordered him to bleed the king without delay, 
 which he did ; and, perceiving the blood, I went to 
 
 rescued his Majesty for the instant, but it 
 was only a short reprieve. He still com- 
 plained, and was relapsing, often fainting, 
 with sometimes epileptic symptoms, till 
 "Wednesday, for which he was cupped, let 
 blood in both jugulars, had both vomit 
 and purges, which so relieved him, that 
 on Thursday hopes of recovery were signi- 
 fied in the public Gazette, but that day 
 about noon, the physicians thought him 
 feverish. This they seemed glad of as 
 being more easily allayed and methodically 
 dealt with than his former fits ; so as they 
 prescribed the famous Jesuit's powder ; but 
 it made him worse, and some very able 
 doctors who were present did not think it 
 a fever, but the effect of his frequent bleed- 
 ing and other sharp operations used by 
 them about his head, so that probably the 
 powder might stop the circulation, and 
 renew his former fits, which now made 
 him very weak. Thus he passed Thurs- 
 day night with great difficulty, when com- 
 plaining of a pain in his side, they drew 
 twelve ounces more of blood from him ; 
 this was by six in the morning on Friday, 
 and it gave him relief, but it did not con- 
 tinue, for being now in much pain, and 
 struggling for breath, he lay dozing, and, 
 after some conflicts, the physicians despair- 
 ing of him, he gave up the ghost at half- 
 an-hour after eleven in the morning, being 
 the sixth of February, 1685, in the 36th 
 year of his reign, and 54th of his age. 
 
 Prayers were solemnly made in all the 
 churches, especially in both the Court 
 Chapels, where the chaplains relieved one 
 another every half quarter of an hour from 
 
 fetch the Duke of York, who came so on the in- 
 stant that he had one shoe and one slipper. At 
 my return with the Duke the king was»in bed, and 
 in a pretty good state, and going on the contrary, 
 side where the Duke was, he perceiving me, took 
 me fast by the hand, saying, I see you love me 
 dying as well as living,' and thanked me heartily for 
 the orders I gave Doctor King (who was knighted 
 for that service) to bleed him, as also for sending 
 Mr. Chifnns [William Chiffinch] to persuade him 
 to come out of his closet " (Memoirs of Thomas, 
 Earl of Ailesbury, written by Himself ed. W. 
 E. Buckley, Roxburghe Club, 1890, pp. 88-89). 
 Dr. Edmund King, 1629-1709, above referred to, 
 seems to have got nothing but his knighthood.] 
 Burnet tells us that the Privy Council approved of 
 what he had done, and ordered him .£1000, but it 
 was never paid him {History of His Otvn Time, 
 1724, i. p. 606). [There is a portrait of King by 
 Sir Peter Lely, in the Royal College of Physicians, 
 bequeathed by himself.] 
 
364 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 the time he began to be in danger till he 
 expired, according to the form prescribed 
 in the Church-offices. Those who assisted 
 his Majesty's devotions were, the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, the Bishops of 
 London, Durham, and Ely, but more 
 especially Dr. Ken, the Bishop of Bath 
 and Wells. It is said they exceedingly 
 urged the receiving Holy Sacrament, but 
 his Majesty told them he would consider 
 of it, which he did so long till it was too 
 late. Others whispered that the Bishops 
 and Lords, except the Earls of Bath and 
 Feversham, being ordered to withdraw the 
 night before, Huddlestone, the priest, had 
 presumed to administer the Popish offices. 1 
 He gave his breeches and keys to the Duke, 
 who was almost continually kneeling by 
 his bedside, and in tears. He also recom- 
 mended to him the care of his natural 
 children, all except the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, now in Holland, and in his dis- 
 pleasure. He entreated the Queen to 
 pardon him (not without cause) ; who a 
 little before had sent a bishop to excuse 
 her not more frequently visiting him, in 
 regard of her excessive grief, and withal 
 that his Majesty would forgive it if at any 
 time she had offended him. He spake to 
 
 1 [Here again a passage may be borrowed from 
 Bruce, in preference to other records. " On Thurs- 
 day, that great and pious prelate, Sandcroft, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, and the Bishops in town 
 came to offer him [the King] their spiritual service. 
 The Archbishop was of a timid temper and had a 
 low voice, and Bishop Ken the contrary, and like 
 to a nightingale for the sweetness of it, so he was 
 desired by the rest to persuade the king to hearken 
 to them. The king thanked them very much, and 
 told them that it was time enough or somewhat to 
 that purpose, and modestly waived them, which 
 was in my hearing. On Friday the 6th, having 
 been much, fatigued, I came not until about ten, 
 knowing that there was no hopes. About eight 
 that' morning his Royal Highness by a back stair 
 brought in Father Huddlestone that had contri- 
 buted to save the King at Boscobel after the fatal 
 battle of Worcester in 1657. ... As soon as the 
 king saw the father come in, he cried out, ' You 
 that saved my body is [sic] now come to save my 
 soul.' This is literally true on a Christian [as I 
 am a Christian?] . . . The King made a general 
 confession with a most true, hearty, and sincere 
 repentance, weeping and bewailing his sins, and he 
 received what is styled all the rites of the Church, 
 and like a true and hearty penitent, and just at 
 high water and full moon at noon he expired " 
 (Memoirs of Thomas, Earl of A He s bury , ul supra, 
 pp. 89-90). See also Clarke's Life of James the 
 Second, 1816, i. pp. 746-49, from which it is plain 
 that the priest was sent for at the King's desire.] 
 
 the Duke to be kind to the Duchess of 
 Cleveland, and especially Portsmouth, and 
 that Nelly might not starve. 
 
 Thus died King Charles II., of a vigor- 
 ous and robust constitution, and in all 
 appearance promising a long life. He was 
 a prince of many virtues, and many great 
 imperfections ; debonair, easy of access, 
 not bloody nor cruel ; his countenance 
 fierce, his voice great, proper of person, 
 every motion became him ; a lover of the 
 sea, and skilful in shipping ; not affecting 
 other studies, yet he had a laboratory, and 
 knew of many empirical medicines, and 
 the easier mechanical mathematics ; he 
 loved planting and building, and brought 
 in a politer way of living, which passed to 
 luxury and intolerable expense. He had 
 a particular talent in telling a story, and 
 facetious passages, of which he had in- 
 numerable ; this made some buffoons and 
 vicious wretches too presumptuous and 
 familiar, not worthy the favour they abused. 
 He took delight in having a number of little 
 spaniels follow him and lie in his bed- 
 chamber, where he often suffered the 
 bitches to puppy and give suck, which 
 rendered it very offensive, and indeed 
 made the whole court nasty and stinking. 
 He would doubtless have been an excel- 
 lent prince, had he been less addicted to 
 women, who made him uneasy, and always 
 in want to supply their immeasurable pro- 
 fusion, to the detriment of many indigent 
 persons who had signally served both him 
 and his father. He frequently and easily 
 changed favourites to his great prejudice. 
 
 As to other public transactions, and un- 
 happy miscarriages, 'tis not here I intend 
 to number them ; but certainly never had 
 King more glorious opportunities to have 
 made himself, his people, and all Europe 
 happy, and prevented innumerable mis- 
 chiefs, had not his too easy nature resigned 
 him to be managed by crafty men, and 
 some abandoned and profane wretches 
 who corrupted his otherwise sufficient parts, 
 disciplined as he had been by many afflic- 
 tions during his banishment, which gave 
 him much experience and knowledge of 
 men and things ; but those wicked creatures 
 took him from off all application becoming 
 so great a King. The history of his reign 
 will certainly be the most wonderful for 
 the variety of matter and accidents, above 
 
i68 S ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 365 
 
 any extant in former ages : the sad tragical 
 death of his father, his banishment and 
 hardships, his miraculous restoration, con- 
 spiracies against him, parliaments, wars, 
 plagues, fires, comets, revolutions abroad 
 happening in his time, with a thousand 
 other particulars. He was ever kind to 
 me, and very gracious upon all occasions, 
 and therefore I cannot without ingratitude 
 but deplore his loss, which for many re- 
 spects, as well as duty, I do with all my 
 soul. 
 
 His Majesty being dead, the Duke, now 
 King James II., went immediately to 
 Council, and before entering into any busi- 
 ness, passionately declaring his sorrow, 
 told their Lordships, that since the succes- 
 sion had fallen to him, he would endeavour 
 to follow the example of his predecessor in 
 his clemency and tenderness to his people ; 
 that, however he had been misrepresented 
 as affecting arbitrary power, they should 
 find the contrary ; for that the laws of 
 England had made the King as great a 
 monarch as he could desire ; that he would 
 endeavour to maintain the Government 
 both in Church and State, as by law estab- 
 lished, its principles being so firm for 
 monarchy, and the members of it showing 
 themselves so good and loyal subjects , 
 
 1 This is the substance and very nearly in the 
 words given by King James II. in his MS. printed 
 in his Life ; but in that MS. are some words which 
 Mr. Evelyn has omitted, viz. after speaking of the 
 Members of the Church of England as good and 
 loyal subjects, the King adds, and therefore I shall 
 always take care to defend and support it. The 
 King then goes on to say, that being desired by 
 some present to allow copies to be taken, he said 
 he had not committed it to writing ; on which Mr. 
 Finch [then Solicitor-General, and afterwards Earl 
 of Aylesford] replied, that what his Majesty had 
 said had made so deep an impression on him, that 
 he believed he could repeat the very words, and if 
 his Majesty would permit him, he would write 
 them down ; which the King agreeing to, he went 
 to a table and wrote them down, and this being 
 shown to the King, he approved of it, and it was 
 immediately published. 
 
 The King then goes on to say : " No one can 
 wonder that Mr. Finch should word the speech as 
 strong as he could in favour of the Established 
 Religion, nor that the King in such a hurry should 
 pass it over without reflection ; for though his 
 Majesty intended to promise both security to their 
 religion and protection to their persons, he was 
 afterwards convinced it had been better expressed 
 by assuring them he never would endeavour to 
 alter the Established Religion, than that he would 
 endeavour to preserve it, and that he would rather 
 support and defend the professors of it, rather than 
 the religion itself ; they could not expect he should 
 
 and that, as he would never depart from 
 the just rights and prerogatives of the 
 Crown, so would he never invade any 
 man's property ; but as he had often ad- 
 ventured his life in defence of the nation, 
 so he would still proceed, and preserve it 
 in all its lawful rights and liberties. 
 
 This being the substance of what he 
 said, the Lords desired it might be pub- 
 lished, as containing matter of great 
 satisfaction to a jealous people upon this 
 change, which his Majesty consented to. 
 Then were the Council sworn, and a 
 Proclamation ordered to be published that 
 all officers should continue in their stations, 
 that there might be no failure of public 
 justice, till his further pleasure should be 
 known. Then the King rose, the Lords 
 accompanying him to his bedchamber, 
 where, whilst he reposed himself, tired 
 indeed as he was with grief and watching, 
 they returned again into the Council- 
 chamber to take order for the proclaiming 
 his Majesty, which (after some debate) 
 they consented should be in the very form 
 his grandfather, King James I. , was, after 
 the death of Queen Elizabeth ; as likewise 
 that the Lords, etc., should proceed in 
 their coaches through the city for the more 
 solemnity of it. Upon this was I, and 
 several other gentlemen waiting in the 
 Privy gallery, admitted into the Council- 
 chamber to be witness of what was resolved 
 on. Thence with the Lords, the Lord 
 Marshal and Heralds, and other Crown- 
 officers being ready, we first went to 
 Whitehall-gate, where the Lords stood on 
 
 make a conscience of supporting what in his con- 
 science he thought erroneous ; his engaging not to 
 molest the professors of it, nor to deprive them or 
 their successors of any spiritual dignity, revenue, 
 or employment, but to suffer the ecclesiastical 
 affairs to go on in the track they were in, was all 
 they could wish or desire from a Prince of a differ- 
 ent persuasion ; but having once approved that 
 way of expressing it which Mr. Finch had made 
 choice of, he thought it necessary not to vary from 
 it in the declarations or speeches he made after- 
 wards, not doubting but the world would under- 
 stand it in the meaning he intended. 'Tis true 
 
 afterwards it was pretended he kept not up to this 
 engagement, but had they deviated no further from 
 the duty and allegiance which both nature and re- 
 peated oaths obliged them to, than he did from 
 his word, they had still remained as happy a people 
 as they really were during his short reign in Eng- 
 land/' — [Clarke's Life of James the Second, 1816], 
 vol. ii. 435. The words in italics were afterwards 
 interlined by the son of King James the Second 
 (Bray's Note). 
 
:66 
 
 THE DIA R Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1685 
 
 foot bare-headed, whilst the Herald pro- 
 claimed his Majesty's title to the Imperial 
 Crown and succession according to the 
 form, the trumpets and kettle-drums having 
 first sounded three times, which ended 
 with the people's acclamations. Then a 
 herald called the Lord's coaches according 
 to rank, myself accompanying the solemn- 
 ity in my Lord Cornwallis's coach, first to 
 Temple Bar, where the Lord Mayor and 
 his brethren met us on horseback, in all 
 their formalities, and proclaimed the King ; 
 hence to Exchange in Cornhill, and so we 
 returned in the order we set forth. Being 
 come to Whitehall, we all went and kissed 
 the King and Queen's hands. He had 
 been on the bed, but was now risen and in 
 his undress. The Queen was in bed in 
 her apartment, but put forth her hand, 
 seeming to be much afflicted, as I believe 
 she was, having deported herself so decently 
 upon all occasions since she came into 
 England, which made her universally 
 beloved. 
 
 Thus concluded this sad and not joyful 
 day. 
 
 I can never forget the inexpressible luxury 
 and profaneness, gaming, and all dissolute- 
 ness, and as it were total , forgetfulness of 
 God (it being Sunday evening), which 
 this day se'nnight I was witness of, the 
 King sitting and toying with his concu- 
 bines, Portsmouth, Cleveland, and Mazarin, 
 etc. , a French boy singing love-songs, 1 in 
 that glorious gallery, whilst about twenty 
 of the great courtiers and other dissolute 
 persons were at basset round a large table, 
 a bank of at least ,£2000 in gold before 
 them ; upon which two gentlemen who 
 were with me made reflections with 
 astonishment. Six days after, was all in 
 the dust. 
 
 It was enjoined that those who put on 
 mourning should wear it as for a father, in 
 the most solemn manner. 
 
 10th February. Being sent to by the 
 Sheriff of the County to appear and assist 
 in proclaiming the King, I went the next 
 day to Bromley, where I met the Sheriff 
 and the Commander of the Kentish Troop, 
 with an appearance, I suppose, of above 
 500 horse, and innumerable people, two of 
 his Majesty's trumpets, and a Serjeant 
 with other officers, who having drawn up 
 
 1 See ante, p. 363. 
 
 the horse in a large field near the town, 
 marched thence, with swords drawn, to 
 the market-place, where, making a ring, 
 after sound of trumpets and silence made, 
 the High Sheriff read the proclaiming 
 titles to his bailiff, who repeated them 
 aloud, and then, after many shouts of the 
 people, his Majesty's health being drunk 
 in a flint glass of a yard long, 1 by the 
 Sheriff, Commander, Officers, and chief 
 Gentlemen, they all dispersed, and I 
 returned. 
 
 13th. I passed a fine on selling of 
 Honson Grange in Staffordshire, being 
 about ^20 per annum, which lying so 
 great a distance, I thought fit to part with 
 it to one Burton, a farmer there. It came 
 to me as part of my daughter-in-law's 
 portion, this being but a fourth part of 
 what was divided between the mother and 
 three sisters. 
 
 i/\th. The King was this night very 
 obscurely buried 2 in a vault under Henry 
 the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster, 
 without any manner of pomp, and soon 
 forgotten after all this vanity, and the 
 face of the whole Court was exceedingly 
 changed into a more solemn and moral 
 behaviour ; the new King affecting neither 
 profaneness nor buffoonery. All the great 
 
 1 [A yard of ale glass, 38 in. high, and capable 
 of holding two pints, was figured in the Tatler 
 for 8th January, 1902. It belonged to Dr. Ernest 
 Fincham. Another, "somewhat like a post horn 
 in shape," was exhibited at Shrewsbury in May, 
 1895. These drinking vessels were once com- 
 paratively common ; and were generally hung to 
 inn walls by coloured ribbons {Notes and Queries, 
 9th S. ix. (1902), pp. 84, 255).] 
 
 2 "One of the first things which required his 
 Majesty's attention was the funeral obsequies of 
 the late King, which could not be perform'd with 
 so great sollemnity as some persons expected, 
 because his late Majesty dying in, and his present 
 Majesty professing a different religion from that 
 of his people, it had been a difficult matter to 
 reconcile the greater cerimonys, which must have 
 been performed according to the rites of the 
 Church of England, with the obligation of not 
 communicateing with it in spiritual things ; to 
 avoid therefore either disputes on one hand or 
 scandal on the other, it was thought more prudent 
 to doe it in a more private manner, th5 at the 
 Same time there was no circumstance of State 
 and pomp omitted, which possebly could be 
 allow'd of: for (besides, that while the body lay 
 in state the illuminations and mourning was very 
 solemn) all the privy Council, all the houshould, 
 and all the Lords about Town attended at the 
 Funeral." — Clarke's Life of James the Second, 
 1816, vol. ii. p. 6. 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 67 
 
 officers broke their staves over the grave, 
 according to form. 
 
 I $th February. Dr. Tenison 1 preached to 
 the Household. The second sermon should 
 have been before the King ; but he, to the 
 great grief of his subjects, did now, for 
 the first time, go to mass publicly in the 
 little Oratory at the Duke's lodgings, the 
 doors being set wide open. 
 
 16th. I dined at Sir Robert Howard's, 
 Auditor of the Exchequer, a gentleman 
 pretending to all manner of arts and 
 sciences, for which he had been the subject 
 of comedy, under the name of Sir Positive ; 2 
 not ill-natured, but insufferably boasting. 
 He was son to the late Earl of Berkshire. 
 
 lyt/i. This morning his Majesty re- 
 stored the staff and key to Lord Arlington, 
 Chamberlain ; to Mr. Saville, Vice-cham- 
 berlain ; 3 to Lords Newport andMaynard, 
 Treasurer and Comptroller of the House- 
 hold ; Lord Godolphin made Chamberlain 
 to the Queen ; Lord Peterborough 4 Groom 
 of the Stole, in place of the Earl of Bath ; 
 the Treasurer's Staff to the Earl of Roches- 
 ter ; and his brother, the Earl of Clarendon, 
 Lord Privy Seal, in the place of the Marquis 
 of Halifax, 5 who was made President of 
 the Council ; the Secretaries of State re- 
 maining as before. 
 
 igt/i. The Lord Treasurer and the 
 other new Officers were sworn at the 
 Chancery Bar and the Exchequer. 
 
 The late King having the revenue of 
 excise, customs, and other late duties 
 granted for his life only, they were now 
 farmed and let to several persons, upon an 
 opinion that the late King might let them 
 for three years after his decease ; some of 
 the old Commissioners refused to act. 
 The lease was made but the day before 
 the King died ; 6 the major part of the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 330.] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 252. Evelyn here means Sir 
 Positive At- All, in Shad well's comedy of The 
 Sullen Lovers, which Pepys also tells us was 
 meant for Sir Robert Howard. [He was perhaps 
 also the Bilboa of Buckingham's Rehearsal.} 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 269.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 209.] 5 [See ante, p. 305.] 
 
 6 James, in his Life, makes no mention of this 
 lease, but only says lie continued to collect them, 
 which conduct was not blamed : but, on the con- 
 trary, he was thanked for it, in an address from 
 the Middle Temple, penned by Sir Bartholomew 
 Shore, and presented by Sir Humphrey Mackworth, 
 carrying, great authority with it ; nor did the 
 Parliament find fault. 
 
 Judges (but, as some think, not the best 
 lawyers) pronounced it legal, but four 
 dissented. 
 
 The Clerk of the Closet had shut up the 
 late King's private oratory next the Privy- 
 chamber above, but the King caused it to 
 be opened again, and that prayers should 
 be said as formerly. 
 
 2.2nd. Several most useful Tracts against 
 Dissenters, Papists, and Fanatics, and Re- 
 solutions of Cases were now published by 
 the London Divines. 
 
 4//1 March. Ash - Wednesday. After 
 evening prayers, I went to London. 
 
 $th. To my grief, I saw the new pulpit 
 set up in the Popish Oratory at Whitehall 
 for the Lent preaching, mass being publicly 
 said, and the Romanists swarming at Court 
 with greater confidence than had ever been 
 seen in England since the Reformation, so 
 as everybody grew jealous as to what this 
 would tend. 
 
 A Parliament was now summoned, and 
 great industry used to obtain elections 
 which might promote the Court-interest, 
 most of the Corporations being now, by 
 their new charters, empowered to make 
 what returns of members they pleased. 
 
 There came over divers envoys and great 
 persons to condole the death of the late 
 King, who were received by the Queen- 
 Dowager on a bed of mourning, the whole 
 chamber, ceiling and floor, hung in black, 
 and tapers were lighted, so as. nothing 
 could be more lugubrious and solemn. 
 The Queen-Consort sate under a state on a 
 black foot-cloth, to entertain the circle 
 (as the Queen used to do), and that very 
 decently. 
 
 6th. Lent Preachers continued as 
 formerly in the Royal Chapel. 
 
 yt/i. My daughter, Mary, was taken 
 with the small-pox, and there soon was 
 found no hope of her recovery. A great 
 affliction to me : but God's holy will be 
 done ! 
 
 loth. She received the blessed Sacra- 
 ment ; after which, disposing herself to 
 suffer what God should determine to inflict, 
 she bore the remainder of her sickness 
 with extraordinary patience and piety, and 
 more than ordinary resignation and blessed 
 frame of mind. She died the 14th, 1 to 
 our unspeakable sorrow and affliction, and 
 
 1 [17th — says the tablet at Deptford.] 
 
368 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 not to ours only, but that of all who knew 
 her, who were many of the best quality, 
 greatest and most virtuous persons. The 
 justness of her stature, person, comeliness 
 of countenance, gracefulness of motion, 
 unaffected, though more than ordinary 
 beautiful, were the least of her ornaments 
 compared with those of her mind. Of 
 early piety, singularly religious, spending 
 a part of every day in private devotion, 
 reading, and other virtuous exercises ; she 
 had collected and written out many of the 
 most useful and judicious periods of the 
 books she read in a kind of common-place, 
 as out of Dr. Hammond x on the New 
 Testament, and most of the best practical 
 treatises. She had read and digested a 
 considerable deal of history, and of places. 
 The French tongue was as familiar to her 
 as English ; she understood Italian, and 
 was able to render a laudable account of 
 what she read and observed, to which 
 assisted a most faithful memory and 
 discernment ; and she did make very 
 prudent and discreet reflections upon what 
 she had observed of the conversations 
 among which she had at any time been, 
 which being continually of persons of the 
 best quality, she thereby improved. She 
 had an excellent voice, to which she 
 played a thorough-bass on the harpsichord, 
 in both which she arrived to that perfec- 
 tion, that of the scholars of those two 
 famous masters, Signors Pietro and Bar- 
 tholomeo, she was esteemed the best ; for 
 the sweetness of her voice and manage- 
 ment of it added such an agreeableness to 
 her countenance, without any constraint or 
 concern, that when she sung, it was as 
 charming to the eye as to the ear ; this I 
 rather note, because it was a universal 
 remark, and for which so many noble and 
 judicious persons in music desired to hear 
 her, the last being at Lord Arundel's of 
 Wardour. 
 
 What shall I say, or rather not say, of 
 the cheerfulness and agreeableness of her 
 humour ? condescending to the meanest 
 servant in the family, or others, she still 
 kept up respect, without the least pride. 
 She would often read to them, examine, 
 instruct, and pray with them if they were 
 sick, so as she was exceedingly beloved of 
 
 1 [Dr. Henry Hammond's Paraphrase and 
 Annotations on the New Testament ', 1635.] 
 
 everybody. Piety was so prevalent an 
 ingredient in her constitution (as I may 
 say), that even amongst equals and superiors 
 she no sooner became intimately ac- 
 quainted, but she would endeavour to 
 improve them, by insinuating something 
 religious, and that tended to bring them 
 to a love of devotion ; she had one or two 
 confidents with whom she used to pass 
 whole days in fasting, reading, and prayers, 
 especially before the monthly communion, 
 and other solemn occasions. She abhorred 
 flattery, and, though she had abundance of 
 wit, the raillery was so innocent and 
 ingenuous that it was most agreeable ; she 
 sometimes would see a play, but since the 
 stage grew licentious, expressed herself 
 weary of them, and the time spent at the 
 theatre was an unaccountable vanity. She 
 never played at cards without extreme 
 importunity and for the company ; but 
 this was so very seldom, that I cannot 
 number it among anything she could name 
 a fault. 
 
 No one could read prose or verse better 
 or with more judgment ; and as she read, 
 so she wrote, not only most correct ortho- 
 graphy, with that maturity of judgment 
 and exactness of the periods, choice of 
 expressions, and familiarity of style, that 
 some letters of hers have astonished me 
 and others, to whom she has occasionally 
 written. She had a talent of rehearsing 
 any comical part or poem, as to them she 
 might be decently free with ; was more 
 pleasing than heard on the theatre ; she 
 danced with the greatest grace I had ever 
 seen, and so would her master say, who 
 was Monsieur Isaac ; 1 but she seldom 
 showed that perfection, save in the grace- 
 fulness of her carriage, which was with an 
 air of sprightly modesty not easily to be 
 described. Nothing affected, but natural 
 and easy as well in her deportment as in 
 her discourse, which was always material, 
 not trifling, and to which the extraordinary 
 sweetness of her tone, even in familiar 
 speaking, was very charming. Nothing 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 339. The Preface to Mundus 
 Maliebris (see next page) speaks somewhat cava- 
 lierly of this esteemed preceptor: — " They danced 
 the Canarys, Spanish Pavan, and Selenger's 
 Round, upon sippets [sops] with as much grace 
 and loveliness as any Isaac, Monsieur, or Italian 
 of them all, can teach with his fop-call and apish 
 postures" {Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, p. 702).] 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 369 
 
 was so pretty as her descending to play 
 with little children, whom she would 
 caress and humour with great delight. 
 But she most affected to be with grave and 
 sober men, of whom she might learn some- 
 thing, and improve herself. I have been 
 assisted by her in reading and praying by 
 me ; comprehensive of uncommon notions, 
 curious of knowing everything to some 
 excess, had I not sometimes repressed it. 
 
 Nothing was so delightful to her as to go 
 into my study, where she would willingly 
 have spent whole days, for as I said she 
 had read abundance of history, and all the 
 best poets, even Terence, Plautus, Homer, 
 Virgil, Horace, Ovid ; all the best romances 
 and modern poems ; she could compose 
 •happily, and put in pretty symbols, as in 
 the Mundus Midiebris?- wherein is an 
 enumeration of the immense variety of the 
 modes and ornaments belonging to the 
 sex. But all these are vain trifles to the 
 virtues which adorned her soul ; she was 
 sincerely religious, most dutiful to her 
 parents, whom she loved with an affection 
 tempered with great esteem, so as we were 
 easy and free, and never were so well 
 pleased as when she was with us, 
 nor needed we other conversation ; she 
 was kind to her sisters, and was still 
 improving them by her constant course of 
 piety. O, dear, sweet, and desirable 
 child, how shall I part with all this good- 
 ness and virtue without the bitterness of 
 sorrow and reluctancy of a tender parent ! 
 Thy affection, duty, and love to me was 
 that of a friend as well as a child. Nor 
 less dear to thy mother, whose example 
 and tender care of thee was unparalleled, 
 nor was thy return to her less conspicuous ; 
 Oh ! how she mourns thy loss ! how deso- 
 late hast thou left us ! To the grave shall 
 we both carry thy memory ! God alone 
 (in whose bosom thou art at rest and 
 happy !) give us to resign thee and all 
 our contentments (for thou indeed wert 
 all in this world) to His blessed pleasure ! 
 Let Him be glorified by our submission, 
 and give us grace to bless Him for the 
 graces he implanted in thee, thy virtuous 
 
 1 {Mundus Muliebris '. or, the Ladies Dressing- 
 room Unlock'd and her Toilet spread. In 
 Burlesque [Verse]. Together with the Fop- 
 Dictionary, compiled for the Use of the Fair 
 Sex : London, 1690, 4 . It is reprinted in the 
 Miscellaneous Writings, 1825, pp. 697-713.] 
 
 life, pious and holy death, which is indeed 
 the only comfort of our souls, hastening 
 through the infinite love and mercy of the 
 Lord Jesus to be shortly with thee, dear 
 child, and with thee and those blessed 
 saints like thee, glorify the Redeemer of 
 the world to all eternity ! Amen. 
 
 It was in the 19th year of her age that 
 this sickness happened to her. An accident 
 contributed to this disease ; she had an 
 apprehension of it in particular, which 
 struck her but two days before she came 
 home, by an imprudent gentlewoman whom 
 she went with Lady Falkland to visit, who, 
 after they had been a good while in the 
 house, told them she had a servant sick of 
 the small-pox (who indeed died the next 
 day) ; this my poor child acknowledged 
 made an impression on her spirits. There 
 were four gentlemen of quality offering to 
 treat with me about marriage, and I freely 
 gave her her own choice, knowing her 
 discretion. She showed great indifference 
 to marrying at all, for truly, says she to 
 her mother (the other day), were I assured 
 of your life and my dear father's, never 
 would I part from you ; I love you and 
 this home, where we serve God, above all 
 things, nor ever shall I be so happy ; I 
 know and consider the vicissitudes of the 
 world, I have some experience of its 
 vanities, and but for decency more than 
 inclination, and that you judge it expedient 
 for me, I would not change my condition, 
 but rather add the fortune you design me 
 to my sisters, and keep up the reputation 
 of our family. This was so discreetly and 
 sincerely uttered that it could not but 
 proceed from an extraordinary child, 
 and one who loved her parents beyond 
 example. 
 
 At London, she took this fatal disease, 
 and the occasion of her being there was 
 this ; my Lord Viscount Falkland's Lady 1 
 having been our neighbour (as he was 
 Treasurer of the Navy), she took so great 
 an affection to my daughter, that when 
 they went back in ihe autumn to the City, 
 nothing would satisfy their incessant im- 
 portunity but letting her accompany my 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 346. Lord Falkland's lady was 
 Rebecca, daughter of Sir Rowland Lytton of 
 Knebworth, Herts, and heiress to her mother, also 
 Rebecca, daughter and co-heir of Thomas Chap- 
 man of Wormley, Herts. She was baptized 3rd 
 July, 1662, and died in 1709.] 
 
 2 B 
 
370 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 Lady, and staying sometime with her ; it 
 was with the greatest reluctance I com- 
 plied. Whilst she was there, my Lord 
 being musical, when I saw my Lady would 
 not part with her till Christmas, I was not 
 unwilling she should improve the oppor- 
 tunity of learning of Signor Pietro, who 
 had an admirable way both of composure 
 and teaching. It was the end of February 
 before I could prevail with my Lady to 
 part with her ; but my Lord going into 
 Oxfordshire to stand for Knight of the 
 Shire there, she expressed her wish to come 
 home, being tired of the vain and empty 
 conversation of the town, the theatres, the 
 court, and trifling visits which consumed 
 so much precious time, and made her 
 sometimes miss of that regular course of 
 piety that gave her the greatest satisfaction. 
 She was weary of this life, and I think 
 went not thrice to Court all this lime, 
 except when her mother or I carried her. 
 She did not affect showing herself, she 
 knew the Court well, and passed one 
 summer in it at Windsor with Lady Tuke, 1 
 one of the Queen's women of the bed- 
 chamber (a most virtuous relation of hers); 
 she was not fond of that glittering scene, 
 now become abominably licentious, though 
 there was a design of Lady Rochester and 
 Lady Clarendon to have made her a maid 
 of honour to the Queen as soon as there 
 was a vacancy. But this she did not set 
 her heart upon, nor indeed on anything so 
 much as the service of God, a quiet and 
 regular life, and how she might improve 
 herself in the most necessary accomplish- 
 ments, and to which she was arrived at so 
 great a measure. 
 
 This is the little history and imperfect 
 character of my dear child, whose piety, 
 virtue, and incomparable endowments 
 deserve a monument more durable than 
 brass and marble. Precious is the memorial 
 of the just. Much I could enlarge on 
 every period of this hasty account, but that 
 I ease and discharge my overcoming pas- 
 sion for the present, so many things worthy 
 an excellent Christian and dutiful child 
 crowding upon me. Never can I say 
 enough, oh dear, my dear child, whose 
 memory is so precious to me ! 
 
 This dear child was born at Wotton, 2 in 
 the same house and chamber in which I 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 290.] 2 [See ante, p. 241.] 
 
 first drew my breath, my wife having 
 retired to my brother there in. the great 
 sickness that year, upon the first of that 
 month, and the very hour that I was born, 
 upon the last : viz. October. 
 
 16th March. She was interred in the 
 south-east end of the church at Deptford, 1 
 near her grandmother and several of my 
 younger children and relations. My desire 
 was she should have been carried and laid 
 among my own parents and relations at 
 Wotton, where I desire to be interred 
 myself, when God shall call me out of this 
 uncertain transitory life, but some circum- 
 stances did not permit it. Our vicar, Dr. 
 Holden,' 2 preached her funeral sermon on 
 Phil. i. 21 : " For to me to live is Christ, 
 and to die is gain," upon which he made 
 an apposite discourse, as those who heard 
 it assured me (for grief suffered me not to 
 be present), concluding with a modest 
 recital of her many virtues and signal 
 piety, so as to draw both tears and 
 admiration from the hearers. I was not 
 altogether unwilling that something of this 
 sort should be spoken, for the edification 
 and encouragement of other young people. 
 
 Divers noble persons honoured her 
 funeral, some in person, others send- 
 ing their coaches, of which there were 
 six or seven with six horses, viz. the 
 Countess of Sunderland, Earl of Clarendon, 
 Lord Godolphin, Sir Stephen Fox, Sir 
 William Godolphin, Viscount Falkland, 
 and others. There were distributed amongst 
 her friends about sixty rings. 
 
 Thus lived, died, and was buried the 
 joy of my life, and ornament of her sex 
 and of my poor family ! God Almighty 
 of His infinite mercy grant me the grace 
 thankfully to resign myself and all I have, 
 or had, to His divine pleasure, and in His 
 good time, restoring health and comfort to 
 my family : "teach me so to number my 
 days, that I may apply my heart to 
 wisdom," be prepared for my dissolution, 
 and that into the hands of my blessed 
 Saviour I may recommend my spirit ! 
 Amen ! 
 
 1 [St. Nicholas Church, Deptford, where, on the 
 E. wall, south of the altar, is a mural tablet to her 
 memory, describing her as " a beautifull young 
 woman, endowed with shining Qualities both of 
 body and mind, infinitely pious, the delight of her 
 Parents and Friends."] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 289.] 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 3/i 
 
 On looking into her closet, it is incred- 
 ible what a number of collections she had 
 made from historians, poets, travellers, 
 etc. , but, above all, devotions, contempla- 
 tions, and resolutions on these contem- 
 plations, found under her hand in a book 
 most methodically disposed ; prayers, 
 meditations, and devotions on particular 
 occasions, with many pretty letters to her 
 confidants ; one to a divine (not named) 
 to whom she writes that he would be her 
 ghostly father, and would not despise her 
 for her many errors and the imperfections 
 of her youth, but beg of God to give her 
 courage to acquaint him with all her 
 faults, imploring his assistance and spiritual 
 directions. I well remember she had often 
 desired me to recommend her to such a 
 person ; but I did not think fit to do it as 
 yet, seeing her apt to be scrupulous, and 
 knowing the great innocence and integrity 
 of her life. 
 
 It is astonishing how one who had 
 acquired such substantial and practical 
 knowledge in other ornamental parts of 
 education, especially music, both vocal 
 and instrumental, in dancing, paying and 
 receiving visits, and necessary conversa- 
 tion, could accomplish half of what she has 
 left ; but, as she never affected play or 
 cards, which consume a world of precious 
 time, so she was in continual exercise, 
 Which yet abated nothing of her most agree- 
 able conversation. But she was a little 
 miracle while she lived, and so she died ! 
 
 2.6th March. I was invited to the 
 funeral of Captain Gunman, 1 that excellent 
 pilot and seaman, who had behaved him- 
 self so valiantly in the Dutch war. He 
 died of a gangrene, occasioned by his fall 
 from the pier of Calais. This was the 
 Captain of the yacht carrying the Duke 
 (now King) to Scotland, and was accused 
 for not giving timely warning when she 
 split on the sands, where so many perished ;' 2 
 but I am most confident he was no ways 
 guilty, either of negligence, or design, as 
 he made appear not only at the examina- 
 tion of the matter of fact, but in the 
 vindication he showed me, and which 
 must needs give any man of reason satis- 
 faction. He was a sober, frugal, cheerful, 
 and temperate man ; we have few such 
 seamen left. 
 
 J [See ante, p. 303.] 2 [See ante, p. 340.] 
 
 %th April. Being now somewhat com- 
 posed after my great affliction, I went to 
 London to hear Dr. Tenison 1 (it being on 
 a Wednesday in Lent) at Whitehall. I 
 observed that though the King was not in 
 his seat above in the chapel, the Doctor 
 made his three congees, which they were 
 not used to do when the late King was 
 absent, making them one bowing only. I 
 asked the reason ; it was said he had a 
 special order so to do. The Princess of 
 Denmark 2 was in the King's closet, but 
 sate on the left hand of the chair, the 
 Clerk of the Closet standing by his 
 Majesty's chair, as if he had been present. 
 
 I met the Queen-Dowager going now 
 first from Whitehall to dwell at Somerset- 
 house. 3 
 
 This day my brother of Wotton and Mr. 
 Onslow were candidates for Surrey against 
 Sir Adam Browne and my cousin Sir 
 Edward Evelyn, and were circumvented in 
 their election by a trick of the Sheriff's, 4 
 taking advantage of my brother's party 
 going out of the small village of Leather- 
 head to seek shelter and lodging, the 
 afternoon being tempestuous, proceeding 
 to the election when they were gone ; they 
 expecting the next morning ; whereas 
 before and then they exceeded the other 
 party by many hundreds, as I am assured. 
 The Duke of Norfolk led Sir Edward 
 Evelyn's and Sir Adam Browne's party. 
 For this parliament, very mean and slight 
 persons (some of them gentlemen's servants, 
 clerks, and persons neither of reputation nor 
 interest) were set up; but the country 
 would choose my brother whether he 
 would or no, and he missed it by the 
 trick above-mentioned. Sir Adam Browne 
 was so deaf, that he could not hear one 
 word. Sir Edward Evelyn, 5 was an 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 330.] 
 
 2 [Afterwards Queen Anne.] 
 
 3 [In May, 1685. Catherine resided here until 
 she left England in May, 1692, never to return, 
 when Somerset House became a series of lodgings 
 (like Hampton Court). In 1775 it was pulled 
 down.] 
 
 4 Mr. Samuel Lewen. His name — says Bray — 
 does not appear in the History of Surrey among 
 the land-owners, but it is there stated (vol. i. p. 
 470) that in 1709 Sir William Lewen purchased the 
 Rectory of Ewell, and that he was Lord Mayor of 
 London in 1717. 
 
 5 [Sir William Evelyn, d. 1692 ; made a Baronet 
 in 1683.] His seat was at Long Ditton, near 
 Kingston, which town had surrendered its charter 
 
372 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 honest gentleman, much in favour with 
 his Majesty. 
 
 10M April. I went early to Whitehall 
 to hear Dr. Tillotson, Dean of Canterbury, 
 preaching on Eccles. ix. 18. I returned in 
 the evening, and visited Lady Tuke, 1 and 
 found with her Sir George Wakeman, the 
 physician, 2 whom I had seen tried and 
 acquitted, amongst the plotters for poison- 
 ing the late King, on the accusation of the 
 famous Oates ; and surely I believed him 
 guiltless. 
 
 14th. According to my custom, I went 
 to London to pass the holy week. 
 
 17 tk. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison 
 preached at the new church at St. James's, 
 on 1 Cor. xvi. 22, upon the infinite love of 
 God to us, which he illustrated in many 
 instances. The Holy Sacrament followed, 
 at which I participated. The Lord make 
 me thankful ! In the afternoon, Dr. Sprat, 3 
 Bishop of Rochester, preached in White- 
 hall chapel, the auditory very full of Lords, 
 the two Archbishops, and many others, 
 now drawn to town upon occasion of the 
 coronation and ensuing parliament. I 
 supped with the Countess of Sunderland 
 and Lord Godolphin, and returned home. 
 
 z^rd. Was the coronation of the King 
 and Queen. The solemnity was magnifi- 
 cent as is set forth in print. 4 The Bishop 
 of Ely 5 preached ; but, to the sorrow of 
 the people, no Sacrament, as ought to have 
 been. However, the King begins his 
 reign with great expectations, and hopes 
 of much reformation as to the late vices 
 and profaneness of both Court and country. 
 Having been present at the late King's 
 coronation, I was not ambitious of seeing 
 this ceremony. 
 
 yd May. A young man preached, 
 going chaplain with Sir J. Winburn, 
 Governor of Bombay, in the East Indies. 
 
 Jth. I was in Westminster Hall when 
 Oates, who had made such a stir in the 
 kingdom, on his revealing a plot of the 
 Papists, and alarmed several parliaments, 
 
 to King Charles II. about a month before his 
 death. King James appointed Sir Edward Evelyn 
 one of the new corporation. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 370.] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 320. 3 [See ante, p. 267.] 
 
 4 By Francis Sandford, Lancaster Herald, 1630- 
 94, illustrated with engravings, folio. 
 
 5 [Dr. Francis Turner. See ante, p. 347. He 
 had become Bishop of Ely in 1684.] 
 
 and had occasioned the execution of divers 
 priests, noblemen, 1 etc., was tried for 
 perjury at the King's Bench ; but, being 
 very tedious, I did not endeavour to see 
 the issue, considering that it would be pub- 
 lished. Abundance of Roman Catholics 
 were in the Hall in expectation of the 
 most grateful conviction and ruin of a 
 person who had been so obnoxious to 
 them, and, as I verily believe, had done 
 much mischief and great injury to several 
 by his violent and ill-grounded proceed- 
 ings, whilst he -was at first so unreasonably 
 blown up and encouraged, that his insolence 
 was no longer sufferable. 
 
 Mr. Roger L' Estrange (a gentleman 
 whom I had long known, and a person of 
 excellent parts, abating some affections) 
 appearing first against the Dissenters in 
 several Tracts, had now for some years 
 turned his style against those whom (by 
 way of hateful distinction) they called 
 Whigs and Trimmers, under the title of 
 Observator, which came out three or four 
 days every week, in which sheets, under 
 pretence to serve the Church of England, 
 he gave suspicion of gratifying another 
 party, by several passages which rather 
 kept up animosities than appeased them, 
 especially now that nobody gave the least 
 occasion. 2 
 
 10th. The Scots valuing themselves 
 exceedingly to have been the first parliament 
 called by his Majesty, gave the excise and 
 customs to him and his successors for 
 ever ; the Duke of Queensberry making 
 eloquent speeches, and especially minding 
 them of a speedy suppression of those late 
 desperate Field - Conventiclers who had 
 done such unheard-of assassinations. In 
 the meantime, elections for the ensuing 
 parliament in England were thought to be 
 very indirectly carried on in most places. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 316. He was convicted May 9, 
 fined, degraded, pilloried, whipped, pilloried again, 
 and imprisoned. He was, however, released at 
 the Revolution, pensioned, and died in 1705. (See 
 post, under 22nd May, 1685.)] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 188. In the second Dutch war 
 (1665-67), while Evelyn was one of the Com- 
 missioners for sick and wounded, L'Estrange in 
 his Gazette mentioned the barbarous usage of the 
 Dutch prisoners of war : whereupon Evelyn wrote 
 him a very spirited letter, desiring that the Dutch 
 Ambassador (who was then in England) and his 
 friends would visit the prisoners, and examine their 
 provisions ; and he desired L'Estrange would 
 publish that vindication in his next number. 
 
1 68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 373 
 
 God grant a better issue of it than some 
 expect ! 
 
 ibth May. Oates was sentenced to be 
 whipped and pilloried with the utmost 
 severity. 1 
 
 2 1 st. I dined at my Lord Privy Seal's 
 with Sir William Dugdale, Garter King- 
 at-Arms, author of the Monasticon and 
 other learned works ; he told me he was 
 82 years of age, and had his sight and 
 memory perfect. 2 There was shown a 
 draft of the exact shape and dimensions 
 of the crown the Queen had been crowned 
 withal, together with the jewels and pearls, 
 their weight and value, which amounted to 
 ,£100,658 sterling, attested at the foot of 
 the paper by the jeweller and goldsmith 
 who set them. 
 
 22nd. In the morning, I went with a 
 French gentleman, and my Lord Privy 
 Seal, to the House of Lords, where we 
 were placed by his Lordship next the Bar, 
 just below the Bishops, very conimodiously 
 both for hearing and seeing. After a short 
 space, came in the Queen and Princess of 
 Denmark, and stood next above the Arch- 
 bishops, at the side of the House on the 
 right hand of the throne. In the interim, 
 divers of the Lords, who had not finished 
 before, took the test and usual oaths, so 
 that her Majesty, the Spanish and other 
 Ambassadors, who stood behind the throne, 
 heard the Pope and the worship of the 
 Virgin Mary, etc. , renounced very decently, 
 as likewise the prayers which followed, 
 standing all the while. Then came in the 
 King, the crown on his head, and being 
 seated, the Commons were introduced, 
 and the House being full, he drew forth a 
 paper containing his speech, which he read 
 distinctly enough, to this effect: "That 
 he resolved to call a Parliament from the 
 moment of his brother's decease, as the 
 best means to settle all the concerns of the 
 nation, so as to be most easy and happy to 
 
 1 [See sufira, p. 316 ; and post, p. 374. Under 
 Jeffreys' sentence, he was twice whipped publicly 
 by the common hangman (20th and 22nd May) : 
 on the first occasion from Aldgate to Newgate, on 
 the second, from Newgate to Tyburn. The 
 punishment was certainly severe. Edmund 
 Calamy, who saw that of the 22nd, says that 
 Oates's back, "miserably swelled with his first 
 whipping, looked as if it had been flayed." In all 
 he received not less than three thousand lashes 
 (Seccombe's " Titus Oates," in Twelve Bad Men, 
 1894, pp. 139, 142).] - [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 himself and his subjects ; that he would 
 confirm whatever he had said in his declara- 
 tion at the first Council 1 concerning his 
 opinion of the principles of the Church of 
 England, for their loyalty, and would 
 defend and support it, and preserve its 
 government as by law now established ; 
 that, as he would invade no man's pro- 
 perty, so he would never depart from his 
 own prerogative ; and, as he had ventured 
 his life in defence of the nation, so he 
 would proceed to do still ; that, having 
 given this assurance of his care of our 
 religion (his word was your religion) and 
 property (which he had not said by chance, 
 but solemnly), so he doubted not of suitable 
 returns of his subjects' duty and kindness, 
 especially as to settling his revenue for life, 
 for the many weighty necessities of govern- 
 ment, which he would not suffer to be 
 precarious ; that some might possibly 
 suggest that it were better to feed and 
 supply him from time to time only, out of 
 their inclination to frequent parliaments ; 
 but that that would be a very improper 
 method to take with him, since the best 
 way to engage him to meet oftener would 
 be always to use him well, and therefore 
 he expected their compliance speedily, 
 that this session being but short, they 
 might meet again to satisfaction." 
 
 At every period of this, the House gave 
 loud shouts. Then he acquainted them 
 with that morning's news of Argyll's being 
 landed in the West Highlands of Scotland 
 from Holland, 2 and the treasonous Declara- 
 tion he had published, which he would . 
 communicate to them, and that he should 
 take the best care he could it should meet 
 with the reward it deserved, not question- 
 ing the parliament's zeal and readiness to 
 assist him as he desired ; at which there 
 followed another Vive le Roz, and so his 
 Majesty retired. 
 
 So soon as the Commons were returned 
 and had put themselves into a grand 
 committee, they immediately put the ques- 
 tion, and unanimously voted the revenue 
 to his Majesty for life. Mr. Seymour made 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 365. ] 
 
 2 [Archibald Campbell, ninth Earl of Argyll, 
 landed in the Orkneys, 6th May, and was opposed 
 by the militia. His followers dispersed and he 
 attempted flight, but was captured 17th June, and 
 beheaded 30th June, 1685, upon a former sentence 
 of 1681.] 
 
374 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 a bold speech against many elections, and 
 would have had those members who (he 
 pretended) were obnoxious, to withdraw, 
 till they had cleared the matter of their 
 being legally returned ; but no one seconded 
 him. The truth is, there were many of the 
 new members whose elections and returns 
 were universally censured, many of them 
 being persons of no condition, or interest, 
 in the nation, or places for which they 
 served, especially in Devon, Cornwall, 
 Norfolk, etc., said to have been recom- 
 mended by the Court, and from the effect 
 of the new charters changing the electors. 
 It was reported that Lord Bath carried 
 down with him [into Cornwall] no fewer 
 than fifteen charters, so that some called 
 him the Prince Elector : whence Seymour 
 told the House in his speech that if this 
 was digested, they might introduce what 
 religion and laws they pleased, and that 
 though he never gave heed to the fears 
 and jealousies of the people before, he was 
 now really apprehensive of Popery. By 
 the printed list of members of 505, there 
 did not appear to be above 135 who had 
 been in former Parliaments, especially that 
 lately held at Oxford. 
 
 In the Lords' House, Lord Newport 1 
 made an exception against two or three 
 young Peers, who wanted some months, and 
 some only four or five days, of being of age. 
 
 The Popish Lords, who had been some- 
 time before released from their confinement 
 about the plot, were now discharged of 
 their impeachment, of which I gave Lord 
 Arundel of Wardour joy. 
 
 Oates, who had but two days before 
 been pilloried at several places and whipped 
 at the cart's tail from Newgate to Aldgate, 
 was this day 2 placed on a sledge, being 
 not able to go by reason of so late scourg- 
 ing, and dragged from prison to Tyburn, 
 and whipped again all the way, which some 
 thought to be severe and extraordinary ; 
 but, if he was guilty of the perjuries, and 
 so of the death of many innocents (as I 
 fear he was), his punishment was but what 
 he deserved. I chanced to pass just as 
 execution was doing on him. A strange 
 revolution ! 
 
 Note : there was no speech made by the 
 Lord Keeper [BridgmanJ after his Majesty, 
 as usual. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 210.] 
 
 2 [May 22, 1685.] 
 
 It was whispered he would not be long 
 in that situation, and many believe the 
 bold Chief-Justice Jeffreys, 1 who was made 
 Baron of Wem, in Shropshire, and who 
 went thorough stitch 2 in that tribunal, 
 stands fair for that office. I gave him joy 
 the morning before of his new honour, he 
 having always been very civil to me. 
 
 24/^ May. We had hitherto not any 
 rain for many months, so as the cater- 
 pillars had already devoured all the winter- 
 fruit through the whole land, and even 
 killed several greater old trees. Such two 
 winters and summers I had never known. 
 
 dfthjtme. Came to visit and take leave 
 of me Sir Gabriel Sylvius, 3 now going 
 Envoy Extraordinary into Denmark, with 
 his Secretary and Chaplain, a Frenchman, 
 who related the miserable persecution 
 of the Protestants in France ; not above 
 ten churches left them, and those also 
 threatened to be demolished ; they were 
 commanded to christen their children 
 within twenty -four hours after birth, or 
 else a Popish priest was to be called, and 
 then the infant brought up in Popery. In 
 some places, they were thirty leagues from 
 any minister, or opportunity of worship. 
 This persecution had displeased the most 
 industrious part of the nation, and dis- 
 persed those into Switzerland, Burgundy, 
 Holland, Germany, Denmark, England, 
 and the Plantations. There were with Sir 
 Gabriel, his lady, 4 Sir William Godolphin 5 
 and sisters, and my Lord Godolphin's little 
 son, 6 my charge. I brought them to the 
 water -side where Sir Gabriel embarked, 
 and the rest returned to London. 
 
 14M. There was now certain intelli- 
 gence of the Duke of Monmouih landing 
 at Lyme, in Dorsetshire, 7 and of his having 
 set up his standard as King of England. 
 I pray God deliver us from the confusion 
 which these beginnings threaten ! 
 
 Such a dearth for want of rain was never 
 in my memory. 
 
 17M. The Duke landed with but 150 
 men ; 8 but the whole kingdom was alarmed, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 353. ] 2 [Vulgo, — the whole hog.] 
 :) [See ante, p. 253.] 4 [See ante, p. 310.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 314.] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 316 ; andpvst, under 15th August, 
 1685.] 
 
 7 [On nth June.] 
 
 8 [" On landing at Lyme he declared his oppon- 
 ents traitors, ordered the taxes to be levied in his 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 375 
 
 fearing that the disaffected would join them, 
 many of the trained bands flocking to him. 
 At his landing, he published a Declaration, 
 charging his Majesty with usurpation and 
 several horrid crimes, on pretence of his 
 own title, and offering to call a free Parlia- 
 ment. This declaration was ordered to 
 be burnt by the hangman, the Duke pro- 
 claimed a traitor, and a reward of ^5000 
 to any who should kill him. 
 
 At this time, the words engraved on the 
 Monument in London, intimating that the 
 Papists fired the City, were erased and cut 
 out. 1 
 
 The exceeding drought still continues. 
 
 \Zth June. I received a warrant to send 
 out a horse with twelve days' provisions, etc. 
 
 281/1. We had now plentiful rain after 
 two years' excessive drought and severe 
 winters. 
 
 Argyll taken in Scotland, and executed, 
 and his party dispersed. 2 
 
 2nd July. No considerable account of 
 the troops sent against the Duke, though 
 great forces sent. There was a smart 
 skirmish ; but he would not be provoked 
 to come to an encounter, but still kept in 
 the fastnesses. 
 
 Dangerfield whipped, 3 like Oates for 
 perjury. 
 
 8th. Came news of Monmouth's utter 
 defeat, 4 and the next day of his being 
 taken by Sir William Portman 5 and Lord 
 Lumley 6 with the militia of their counties. 
 It seems the Horse, commanded by Lord 
 Grey, 7 being newly raised and undiscip- 
 
 name, as 'King James II.', and offered a reward 
 for the apprehension of 'James, Duke of York,' 
 against whom he made the monstrous charges of 
 having caused the fire of London, procured the 
 murder of Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, and poisoned 
 King Charles" (Annals 0/ England \ 1876, p. 
 
 436).] 
 
 1 [They were re-cut in the reign of William III., 
 and eventually erased by an Act of Common 
 Council, 26th January, 1831.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 373.] 
 
 3 [Thomas Dangerfield, 1650-85. He had been a 
 witness against Lord Castlemaine in the Meal Tub 
 Plot of 1680, of which he had published a Par- 
 ticular Narrative, now declared to contain matter 
 defamatory concerning the King, etc. On his 
 return from the pillory, he was assaulted by a 
 Romanist lawyer, and died in consequence. Robert 
 Francis, the lawyer, was hanged for murder.] 
 
 4 [At Sedgemoor near Bridgwater, 6th July.] 
 
 5 [Sir William Portman, 1641-90.] 
 
 6 [Richard Lumley, d. 1721, created Baron 
 Lumley of Lumley Castle in 1681, afterwards first 
 Earl of Scarborough.] 7 [See ante, p. 348.] 
 
 lined, were not to be brought in so short a 
 time to endure the fire, which exposed the 
 Foot to the King's, so as when Monmouth 
 had led the Foot in great silence and order, 
 thinking to surprise Lieutenant -General 
 Lord Feversham 1 newly encamped, and 
 given him a smart charge, interchanging 
 both great and small shot, the Horse, 
 breaking their own ranks, Monmouth gave 
 it over, and fled with Grey, leaving their 
 party to be cut in pieces to the number of 
 2000. The whole number reported to be 
 above 8000 ; the King's but 2700. The 
 slain were most of them Mendip -miner s, 
 who did great execution with their tools, 
 and sold their lives very dearly, whilst their 
 leaders flying were pursued and taken the 
 next morning, not far from one another. 
 Monmouth had gone sixteen miles on foot, 
 changing his habit for a poor coat, and was 
 found by Lord Lumley in a dry ditch 
 covered with fern - brakes, but without 
 sword, pistol, or any weapon, and so 
 might have passed for some countryman, 
 his beard being grown so long and so gray 
 as hardly to be known, had not his George 
 discovered him, which was found in his 
 pocket. It is said he trembled exceedingly 
 all -over, not able to speak. Grey was 
 taken not far from him. Most of his party 
 were Anabaptists and poor cloth-workers 
 of the country, no gentlemen of account 
 being come in to him. The arch- boutefeti 
 Ferguson, 2 Matthews, etc., were not yet 
 found. The ^5000 to be given to who- 
 ever should bring Monmouth in, was to be 
 distributed among the militia by agree- 
 ment between Sir William Portman and 
 Lord Lumley. The battle ended, some 
 words, first in jest, then in passion, passed 
 between Sherrington Talbot (a worthy 
 gentleman, son to Sir John Talbot, and 
 who had behaved himself very handsomely) 
 and one Captain Love, both commanders 
 of the militia, as to whose soldiers fought 
 best, both drawing their swords and passing 
 at one another. Sherrington was wounded 
 to death on the spot, to the great regret of 
 those who knew him. He was Sir John's 
 only son. 
 
 gt/i. Just as I was coming into the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 302. But the King's forces were 
 really under Churchill (afterwards Duke of M arl- 
 borough), who had learned warfare from Turenne.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 348. Boute/eu = incendiary.] 
 
376 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 lodgings at Whitehall, a little before dinner, 
 my Lord of Devonshire 1 standing very 
 near his Majesty's bedchamber -door in 
 the lobby, came Colonel Cuipeper, and 
 in a rude manner looking at my Lord in 
 the face, asked whether this was a time 
 and place for excluders to appear ; my 
 Lord at first took little notice of what he 
 said, knowing him to be a hot-headed 
 fellow, but he reiterating it, my Lord 
 asked Cuipeper whether he meant him ; 
 he said yes, he meant his Lordship. My 
 Lord told him he was no excluder (as in- 
 deed he was not) ; the other affirming it 
 again, my Lord told him he lied ; on which 
 Cuipeper struck him a box on the ear, 
 which my Lord returned, and felled him. 
 They were soon parted, Cuipeper was 
 seized, and his Majesty, who was all the 
 while in his bedchamber, ordered him to 
 be carried to the Green-Cloth Officer, who 
 sent him to the Marshal-sea, as he deserved. 
 My Lord Devon had nothing said to him. 
 
 I supped this night at Lambeth at my 
 old friend's Mr. Elias Ashmole's, 2 with 
 my Lady Clarendon, the Bishop of St. 
 Asaph, and Dr. Tenison, when we were 
 treated at a great feast. 
 
 \ot h July. The Count of Castel Mellor, 3 
 that great favourite and prime minister of 
 Alphonso, late King of Portugal, after 
 several years' banishment, being now re- 
 ceived to grace and called home by Don 
 Pedro, the present King, as having been 
 found a person of the greatest integrity 
 after all his sufferings, desired me to spend 
 part of this day with him, and assist him 
 in a collection of books and other curiosi- 
 ties, which he would carry with him into 
 Portugal. 
 
 Mr. Hussey, 4 a young gentleman who 
 made love to my late dear child, but 
 whom she could not bring herself to 
 answer in affection, died now of the same 
 cruel disease, for which I was extremely 
 sorry, because he never enjoyed himself 
 after my daughter's decease, nor was I 
 averse to the match, could she have over- 
 come her disinclination. 
 
 15M. I went to see Dr. Tenison's 
 library [in St. Martin's]. 5 
 
 l [See ante, p. 167.] 2 [See ante, p. 187.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 314.] 
 
 4 Son of Mr. Peter Hussey, of Sutton in Shere, 
 Surrey. See ante, p. 273 and p. 335. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 357.] 
 
 Monmouth was this day brought to 
 London and examined before the King, to 
 whom he made great submission, acknow- 
 ledged his seduction by Ferguson, the 
 Scot, whom he named the bloody villain. 
 He was sent to the Tower, had an inter- 
 view with his late Duchess, 1 whom he 
 received coldly, having lived dishonestly 
 with the Lady Henrietta Wentworth 2 for 
 two years. He obstinately asserted his 
 conversation with that debauched woman 
 to be no sin ; whereupon, seeing he could 
 not be persuaded to his last breath, the 
 divines who were sent to assist him 3 
 thought not fit to administer the Holy 
 Communion to him. For the rest of his 
 faults he professed great sorrow, and so 
 died without any apparent fear. He would 
 not make use of a cap or other circum- 
 stance, but lying down, bid the fellow 4 to 
 do his office better than to the late Lord 
 Russell, and gave him gold ; but the 
 wretch made five chops before he had his 
 head off; which so incensed the people, 
 that had he not been guarded and got 
 away, they would have torn him to pieces. 
 
 The Duke made no speech on the scaf- 
 fold (which was on Tower-Hill), but gave 
 a paper containing not above five or six 
 lines, for the King, in which he disclaims 
 all title to the Crown, acknowledges that 
 the late King, his father, had indeed told 
 him he was but his base son, and so 
 desired his Majesty to be kind to his wife 
 and children. This relation I had from 
 Dr. Tenison (Rector of St. Martin's), who, 
 with the Bishops of Ely and Bath and 
 Wells, were sent to him by his Majesty, 
 and were at the execution. 
 
 Thus ended this quondam Duke, darling 
 of his father and the ladies, being extremely 
 handsome and adroit ; an excellent soldier 
 and dancer, a favourite of the people, of 
 an easy nature, debauched by lust ; seduced 
 by crafty knaves, who would have set him 
 up only to make a property, and taken 
 the opportunity of the King being of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 290.] 
 
 2 [Henrietta Maria Wentworth, 1657-86, Baroness 
 Wentworth (see ante, p. 297 «.). She had followed 
 Monmouth to Holland ; and supplied funds for his 
 descent upon England.] 
 
 3 [See next paragraph.] 
 
 4 [The executioner was John or Jack Ketch, d. 
 1686, who had flogged Oates (see ante, p. 374), and 
 beheaded Lord Russell (see ante, p. 350).] 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 377 
 
 another religion, to gather a party of dis- 
 contented men. He failed, and perished. 
 
 He was a lovely person, 1 had a virtuous 
 and excellent lady that brought him great 
 riches, and a second dukedom in Scotland. 
 He was Master of the Horse, General of 
 the King his father's army, Gentleman of 
 the Bedchamber, Knight of the Garter, 
 Chancellor of Cambridge ; in a word, had 
 accumulations without end. See what 
 ambition and want of principles brought 
 him to ! He was beheaded on Tuesday, 
 14th July. 2 His mother, whose name was 
 Barlow, daughter of some very mean 
 creatures, was a beautiful strumpet, whom 
 I had',often seen at Paris ; 3 she died miser- 
 ably without anything to bury her ; yet 
 this Perkin had been made to believe that 
 the King had married her, a monstrous and 
 ridiculous forgery ! 4 And to satisfy the 
 world of the iniquity of the report, the 
 King his father (if his father he really was, 
 for he most resembled one Sidney 5 who 
 was familiar with his mother) publicly 
 and most solemnly renounced it, to be so 
 entered in the Council Book some years 
 since, with all the Privy Councillors' at- 
 testation. 6 
 
 Had it not pleased God to dissipate this 
 attempt in the beginning, there would in 
 
 1 [Bruce says he was "the finest nobleman eyes 
 ever saw as to his exterior, and that was all, save 
 that he was of the most courteous and polite 
 behaviour that can be expressed" (Memoirs of 
 T/iomas, Earl of Ailesbury, Roxburghe Club, 
 1890, p. 120.] 
 
 2 [15th July, in the Tower.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 151.] 
 
 4 [This was the Black Box legend, to which 
 Burnet thus refers. "There was a strange Story 
 published yesterday in Coffee houses, of which, 
 though I believe not a little [tittle?], yet the 
 setting such things abroad, may be done on design 
 to see how the like might take another time, it 
 was said, that Cosens Bishop of Durham had 
 left a paper seal'd in Sir Gilbert Gerrard's hands, 
 with a charge not to open it till the King was 
 dead. But he had been of late wrought on to open 
 it, and finds it a certificate of that Bishop's having 
 married the king to the Duke of Monmouth's 
 Mother, this I had from a Person of Honour, who 
 heard it publish'd in the Coffee house" (Unpub- 
 lished Letters, Catnden Miscellany, 3rd series, 
 vol. xi. (1907), p. 19).] 
 
 5 Colonel Robert Sidney, commonly called hand- 
 some Sidney, brother of Algernon Sidney, and 
 related to the Earl of Leicester of that name. 
 
 6 [Charles issued three Declarations denying the 
 marriage, January to June, 1678. There is a full 
 account of Monmouth's mother in vol. i. of Clarke's 
 Life ofjauies the Second, 1816, pp. 491-92.] 
 
 all appearance have gathered an irresistible 
 force which would have desperately pro- 
 ceeded to the ruin of the Church and 
 Government ; so general was the discontent 
 and expectation of the opportunity. For 
 my own part, I looked upon this deliver- 
 ance as most signal. Such an inundation 
 of fanatics and men of impious principles 
 must needs have caused universal disorder, 
 cruelty, injustice, rapine, sacrilege, and 
 confusion, an unavoidable civil war, and 
 misery without end. Blessed be God, the 
 knot was happily broken, and a fair pros- 
 pect of tranquillity for the future, if we 
 reform, be thankful, and make a right use 
 of this mercy ! 
 
 iSV/z July. I went to see the muster of 
 the six Scotch and English regiments whom 
 the- Prince of Orange x had lately sent to 
 his Majesty out of Holland upon this 
 rebellion, but which were now returning, 
 there having been no occasion for their 
 use. They were all excellently clad and 
 well disciplined, and were encamped on 
 Blackheath with their tents : the King and 
 Queen came to see them exercise, and the 
 manner of their encampment, which was 
 very neat and magnificent. 
 
 By a gross mistake of the Secretary of 
 his Majesty's Forces, it had been ordered 
 that they should be quartered in private 
 houses, contrary to an Act of Parliament, 
 but, on my informing his Majesty timely 
 of it, it was prevented. 
 
 The two horsemen which my son and 
 myself sent into the county-troops, were 
 now come home, after a month's being 
 out to our great charge. 
 
 20th. The Trinity -Company met this 
 day, which should have been on the 
 Monday after Trinity, but was put off by 
 reason of the Royal Charter being so large, 
 that it could not be ready before. 2 Some 
 immunities were superadded. Mr. Pepys, 
 Secretary to the Admiralty, was a second 
 time chosen Master. There were present 
 the Duke of Grafton, Lord Dartmouth, 
 Master of the Ordnance, the Commis- 
 sioners of the Navy, and Brethren of the 
 Corporation. We went to church, accord- 
 ing to custom, and then took barge to the 
 
 1 [Afterwards William III.] 
 
 2 [It had been mainly framed by the voluminous 
 Pepys. The first Charter had already been a very 
 lengthy document.] 
 
378 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 Trinity-House in London, 1 where we had 
 a great dinner, above eighty at one table. 
 
 7th August. I went to see Mr. Watts, 
 keeper of the Apothecaries' garden of 
 simples at Chelsea, where there is a collec- 
 tion of innumerable rarities of that sort 
 particularly, besides many rare annuals, 
 the tree bearing Jesuit's bark, which had 
 done such wonders in quartan agues. 
 What was very ingenious was the subter- 
 ranean heat, conveyed by a stove under the 
 conservatory, all vaulted with brick, so as 
 he has the doors and windows open in the 
 hardest frosts, secluding only the snow. 
 
 15M. Came to visit us Mr. Boscawen, 
 with my Lord'Godolphin's little son, 2 with 
 whose education hitherto his father had 
 entrusted me. 
 
 27^/2. My daughter Elizabeth 3 died of 
 the small-pox, soon after having married a 
 young man, nephew of Sir John Tippett, 
 Surveyor of the Navy, and one of the Com- 
 missioners. The 30th, she was buried in 
 the church at Deptford. Thus, in less 
 than six months were we deprived of two 
 children for our unworthiness and causes 
 best known to God, whom I beseech from 
 the bottom of my heart that he will give 
 us grace to make that right use of ^.11 these 
 chastisements, that we may become better, 
 and entirely submit in all things to his 
 infinite wise disposal. Amen ! 
 
 yd September. Lord Clarendon (Lord 
 Privy Seal) wrote to let me know that the 
 King being pleased to send him Lord- 
 Lieutenant into Ireland, was also pleased 
 to nominate me one of the Commissioners 
 to execute the office of Privy Seal during 
 his Lieutenancy there, it behoving me to 
 wait upon his Majesty to give him thanks 
 for this great honour. 
 
 $t/i. I accompanied his Lordship to 
 Windsor (dining by the way at Sir Henry 
 Capel's at Kew), 4 where his Majesty receiv- 
 ing me with extraordinary kindness, I 
 kissed his hand. I told him how sensible 
 I was of his Majesty's gracious favour to 
 me, that I would endeavour to serve him 
 with all sincerity, diligence, and loyalty, 
 not more out of my duty than inclination. 
 
 1 [Then in Water Lane, Great Tower Street. 
 It had been burned down in the Great Fire, and 
 rebuilt, 1660-70 (Barrett's Trinity House, 1895, 
 pp. 101, 104).] 2 [See ante, p. 374.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 259.] 4 [See ante, p. 314.] 
 
 He said he doubted not; of it, and was glad 
 he had the opportunity to show me the 
 kindness he had for me. After this, came 
 abundance of great men to give me joy. 
 
 6tk. Sunday. I went to prayer in 
 the chapel, and heard Dr. Standish. The 
 second sermon was preached by Dr. Creigh- 
 ton, 1 on 1 Thess. iv. n, persuading to 
 unity and peace, and to be mindful of our 
 own business, according to the advice of 
 the apostle. Then I went to hear a French- 
 man who preached before the King and 
 Queen in that splendid chapel next St. 
 George's Hall. Their Majesties going to 
 mass, I withdrew to consider the stupend- 
 ous painting of the Hall, which, both for 
 the art and invention, deserve the inscrip- 
 tion in honour of the painter, Signor 
 Verrio.' 2 The history is Edward the Third 
 receiving the Black Prince, coming to- 
 wards him in a Roman triumph. The 
 whole roof is the history of St. George. 
 The throne, the carvings, etc., are incom- 
 parable, and I think equal to any, and in 
 many circumstances exceeding any, I ?iave 
 seen abroad. 
 
 I dined at Lord Sunderland's, with 
 (amongst others) Sir William Soames, 
 designed Ambassador to Constantinople. 
 
 About 6 o'clock, came Sir Dudley and 
 his brother Roger North, and brought the 
 Great Seal from my Lord Keeper, 3 who 
 died the day before at his house in Oxford- 
 shire. The King went immediately to 
 council ; everybody guessing who was 
 most likely to succeed this great officer ; 
 most believing it could be no other than 
 my Lord Chief-Justice Jeffreys, 4 who had 
 so vigorously prosecuted the late rebels, 
 and was now gone the Western Circuit, 
 to punish the rest that were secured in the 
 several counties, and was now near upon 
 his return. I took my leave of his Majesty, 
 who spake very graciously to me, and 
 supping that night at Sir Stephen Fox's, 5 
 I promised to dine there the next day. 
 
 15M. I accompanied Mr. Pepys to 
 Portsmouth, whither his Majesty was 
 going the first time since his coming 
 to the Crown, to see in what state the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 151.] 2 [See ante, p. 346.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 343. He died 5th September, 
 1685.] 
 
 4 [See/ost, under 31st October, 1685.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 246.] 
 
1685] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 379 
 
 fortifications were. We took coach and 
 six horses, late after dinner, yet got to 
 Bagshot l that night. Whilst supper was 
 making ready I went and made a visit to 
 Mrs. Graham, 2 sometime Maid of Honour 
 to the Queen-Dowager, now wife to James 
 Graham, Esq., of the privy purse to the 
 King ; her house 3 being a walk in the 
 forest, within a little quarter of a mile from 
 Bagshot town. Very importunate she was 
 that I would sup, and abide there that 
 night ; but, being obliged by my com- 
 panion, I returned to our inn, after she 
 had showed me her house, which was very 
 commodious, and well-furnished, as she 
 was an* excellent house-wife, a prudent and 
 virtuous lady. There is a park full of red 
 deer about it. Her eldest son was now 
 sick of the small-pox, but in a likely way 
 of recovery, and other of her children run 
 about, and among the infected, which she 
 said she let them do on purpose that they 
 might whilst young pass that fatal disease 
 she fancied they were to undergo one time 
 or other, and that this would be the best : 
 the severity of this cruel distemper so 
 lately in my poor family confirming much 
 of what she affirmed. 
 
 16M September, The next morning, set- 
 ting out early, we arrived soon enough at 
 Winchester to wait on the King, who was 
 lodged at the Dean's (Dr. Meggot). 4 I 
 found very few with him besides my Lords 
 Feversham, Arran, 5 Newport, and the 
 Bishop of Bath and Wells. His Majesty 
 was discoursing with the Bishop concern- 
 ing miracles, and what strange things the 
 Saludadors 6 would do in Spain, as by 
 
 1 A distance of 26 miles. - See ante, p. 301. 
 
 a Bagshot Park [now the residence of the Duke 
 of Connaught.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 245.] 5 [See ante, p. 343.] 
 
 6 Evelyn subjoins this note with his initials : — 
 "As to that of the Saludador (of which likewise I 
 remember Sir Arthur Hopton, formerly Ambassador 
 at Madrid, had told me many like wonders), Mr. 
 Pepys passing through Spaine, and being extremely 
 inquisitive of the truth of these pretended miracles 
 of the Saludadors, found a very famous one at last, 
 to whom he offered a considerable reward if he 
 would make a trial of the oven, or anyother thing 
 of that kind, before him ; the fellow ingenuously 
 told him, that finding he was a more than ordinary 
 curious person, he would not deceive him, and so 
 acknowledged that he could do none of the feates 
 really, buf that what he pretended was all a cheate, 
 w ch he would easily discover, though the poore 
 superstitious people were easily imposed upon ; 
 
 creeping into heated ovens without hurt, 
 and that they had a black cross in the 
 roof of their mouths, but yet were com- 
 monly notorious and profane wretches ; 
 upon which his Majesty further said, that 
 he was so extremely difficult of miracles, 
 for fear of being imposed upon, that if he 
 should chance to see one himself, without 
 some other witness, he should apprehend 
 it a delusion of his senses. Then they 
 spake of the boy who was pretended to 
 have a wanting leg restored him, so con- 
 fidently asserted by Fr. de Santa Clara 
 and others. To all which the Bishop 
 added a great miracle happening in Win- 
 chester to his certain knowledge, of a poor 
 miserably sick and decrepit child (as I 
 remember long kept unbaptized), who, 
 immediately on his baptism, recovered ; 
 as also of a salutary effect of King Charles 
 his Majesty's father's blood, in healing one 
 that was blind. 
 
 There was something said of the second 
 sight x happening to some persons especially 
 Scotch ; upon which his Majesty, and I 
 think Lord Arran, told us that Monsieur 
 
 a French nobleman, lately 
 
 here in England, seeing the late Duke of 
 Monmouth come into the playhouse at 
 London, suddenly cried out to somebody 
 sitting in the same box, Voile), Monsieur 
 comme il entre sans t'ite! Afterwards his 
 Majesty spoke of some relics that had 
 effected strange cures, particularly a piece 
 of our blessed Saviour's cross, that healed 
 a gentleman's rotten nose by only touching. 
 And speaking of the golden cross and 
 chain taken out of the coffin of St. Edward 
 the Confessor at Westminster, 2 by one of 
 the singing-men, who, as the scaffolds were 
 taken down after his Majesty's coronation, 
 espying a hole in the tomb, and something 
 glisten, put his hand in, and brought it to 
 the dean, and he to the King ; his Majesty 
 began to put the Bishop in mind how 
 earnestly the late King (his brother) called 
 upon him during his agony, to take out 
 
 yet have these impostors an allowance of the 
 Bishops to practice their juglings. This Mr. 
 Pepys affirmed to me ; but, said he, I did not 
 conceive it fit to interrupt his Ma l J', who so 
 solemnly told what they pretended to do. J. E." 
 
 1 Several very curious letters on this subject are 
 printed in Pepys's Correspondence between 24th 
 
 October, 1699, an< * 2 7 tn ^ a y> 1 7° I - 
 
 2 [See Appendix VII.] 
 
38o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 what he had in his pocket. 1 I had thought, 
 said the King, it had been for some keys, 
 which might lead to some cabinet that his 
 Majesty would have me secure ; but, says 
 he, you will remember that I found 
 nothing in any of his pockets but a cross 
 of gold, and a few insignificant papers ; 
 and thereupon he showed us the cross, 
 and was pleased to put it into my hand. 
 It was of gold, about three inches long, 
 having on one side a crucifix enamelled 
 and embossed, the rest was graved and 
 garnished with goldsmiths' work, and two 
 pretty broad table amethysts (as I con- 
 ceived), and at the bottom a pendant 
 pearl ; within was enchased a little frag- 
 ment, as was thought, of the true cross, 
 and a Latin inscription in gold and Roman 
 letters. 2 More company coming in, this 
 discourse ended. I may not forget a 
 resolution which his Majesty made, and 
 had a little before entered upon it at the 
 Council Board at Windsor or Whitehall, 
 that the negroes in the Plantations should 
 all be baptized, exceedingly declaiming 
 against that impiety of their masters pro- 
 hibiting it, out of a mistaken opinion that 
 they would be ipso facto free ; but his 
 Majesty persists in his resolution to have 
 them christened, which piety the Bishop 
 blessed him for. 
 
 I went out to see the new palace the late 
 King had begun, and brought almost to 
 the covering. It is placed on the side of 
 the hill, where formerly stood the old 
 Castle. It is a stately fabric, of three 
 sides and a corridor, all built of brick, 
 and corniced, windows and columns at the 
 break and entrance of free-stone. 3 It was 
 intended for a hunting -house when his 
 Majesty should come to these parts, and 
 has an incomparable prospect. I believe 
 there had already been ^20,000 and more 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 364.] 
 
 2 There is a pamphlet giving an account of this 
 finding and presenting to the King, under the 
 name of "Charles Taylour"; but the writer was 
 Henry Keepe, the author of Monumenta JVest- 
 monasteriensia. 
 
 3 See ante, p. 353. Upon Charles's death, a 
 stop was put to the building by James II. It was 
 equally neglected by King William ; but Queen 
 Anne, after surveying it herself, intended to com- 
 plete it in favour of her husband, George, Prince of 
 Denmark, upon whom it was settled, had he lived 
 until she could afford the sums necessary for this 
 purpose. 
 
 expended ; but his now Majesty did not 
 seem to encourage the finishing it at least 
 for a while. 
 
 Hence to see the Cathedral, a reverend 
 pile, and in good repair. There are still 
 the coffins of the six Saxon Kings, whose 
 bones had been scattered by the sacrilegious 
 rebels of 1641, in expectation, I suppose, 
 of finding some valuable relics, and after- 
 wards gathered up again and put into new 
 chests, which stand above the stalls of the 
 choir. 1 
 
 ijt/i September. Early next morning, 
 we went to Portsmouth, something before 
 his Majesty arrived. We found all the 
 road full of people, the women in their 
 best dress, in expectation of seeing the 
 King pass by, which he did, riding on 
 horseback a good part of the way. The 
 Mayor and Aldermen with their mace, and 
 in their formalities, were standing at the 
 entrance of the fort, a mile on this side of 
 the town, where the Mayor made a speech 
 to the King, and then the guns of the fort 
 were fired, as were those of the garrison, 
 as soon as the King was come into Ports- 
 mouth. All the soldiers (near 3000) were 
 drawn up, and lining the streets and plat- 
 form to God's-house (the name of the 
 Governor's residence), where, after he had 
 viewed the new fortifications and ship- 
 yard, his Majesty was entertained at a 
 
 magnificent dinner by Sir 
 
 Slingsby, 2 the Lieutenant - Governor, all 
 the gentlemen in his train sitting down at 
 table with him, which I also had done had 
 I not been before engaged to Sir Robert 
 Holmes, Governor of the Isle of Wight, 3 
 to dine with him at a private house, where 
 likewise we had a very sumptuous and 
 plentiful repast of excellent venison, fowl, 
 fish, and fruit. 
 
 After dinner, I went to wait on his 
 Majesty again, who was pulling on his 
 boots in the Townhall adjoining the house 
 where he dined, and then having saluted 
 some ladies, who came to kiss his hand, 
 he took horse for Winchester, whither 
 he returned that night. This hall is 
 
 1 ["Elevated above the north screen of the 
 choir" — says Black's Guide to Hampshire, 1904, 
 p. 94. The troops of Cromwell stabled their steeds 
 in the Cathedral, breaking the windows and open- 
 ing the coffins.] 
 
 8 [Query, — Sir Arthur Slingsby (see ante, 
 p. 150).] s [See ante, p. 265.] 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 38i 
 
 artificially hung round with arms of all 
 gorts, like the hall and keep at Windsor. 
 Hence, to see the ship-yard and dock, the 
 fortifications, and other things. 
 
 Portsmouth, when finished, will be very 
 strong, and a noble quay. There were 
 now thirty-two men-of-war in the harbour. 
 I was invited by Sir R. Beach, the Com- 
 missioner, where, after a great supper, Mr. 
 Secretary 1 and myself lay that night, and 
 the next morning set out for Guildford, 
 where we arrived in good hour, and so the 
 day after to London. 
 
 I had twice before been at Portsmouth, 
 the Isle of Wight, etc. , many years since. 
 I found this part of Hampshire bravely 
 wooded, especially about the house and 
 estate of Colonel Norton, who though now 
 in being, having formerly made his peace 
 by means of Colonel Legg, was formerly 
 a very fierce commander in the first 
 Rebellion. His house is large, and stand- 
 ing low, on the road from Winchester to 
 Portsmouth. 
 
 But what I observed in this journey, 
 is that infinite industry, sedulity, gravity, 
 and great understanding and experience of 
 affairs, in his Majesty, that I cannot but 
 predict much happiness to the nation, as 
 to its political government ; and, if he so 
 persist, there could be nothing more de- 
 sired to accomplish our prosperity, but 
 that he was of the national religion. 
 
 30M September. Lord Clarendon's com- 
 mission for Lieutenant of Ireland was 
 sealed this day. 
 
 2nd October. Having a letter sent me 
 by Mr. Pepys with this expression at the 
 foot of it, "I have something to show 
 you that I may not have another time," 
 and that I would not fail to dine with 
 him, I accordingly went. After dinner, 
 he had me and Mr. Houblon 2 (a rich and 
 considerable merchant, whose father had 
 fled out of Flanders on the persecution of 
 the Duke of Alva) into a private room, 
 and told us that being lately alone with 
 his Majesty, and upon some occasion of 
 speaking concerning my late Lord Arling- 
 ton dying a Roman Catholic, 3 who had all 
 along seemed to profess himself a Pro- 
 testant, taken all the tests, etc., till the 
 
 1 [Pepys.] 2 [See ante, p. 317. ] 
 
 3 [Lord Arlington, died 28th July, 1685 (see 
 ante, p. 309).] 
 
 day (I think) of his death, his Majesty 
 said that as to his inclinations he had 
 known them long wavering, but from fear 
 of losing his places, he did not think it 
 convenient to declare himself. There are, 
 says the King, those who believe the 
 Church of Rome gives dispensations for 
 going to church, and many like things, but 
 that is not so ; for if that might have been 
 had, he himself had most reason to make 
 use of it. Indeed, he said, as to some 
 matrimonial cases, there are now and then 
 dispensations, but hardly in any cases else. 
 This familiar discourse encouraged Mr. 
 Pepys to beg of his Majesty, if he might 
 ask it without offence, and for that his 
 Majesty could not but observe how it was 
 whispered among many whether his late 
 Majesty had been reconciled to the Church 
 of Rome ; he again humbly besought his 
 Majesty to pardon his presumption, if he 
 had touched upon a thing which did not 
 befit him to look into. The King in- 
 genuously told him that he both was and 
 died a Roman Catholic, and that he had 
 not long since declared it was upon some 
 politic and state reasons, best known to 
 himself (meaning the King his brother), 
 but that he was of that persuasion : 1 he 
 bid him follow him into his closet, 
 where opening a cabinet, he showed him 
 two papers, containing about a quarter of 
 a sheet, on both sides written, in the late 
 King's own hand, several arguments 
 opposite to the doctrine of the Church 
 of England, charging her with heresy, 
 novelty, and the fanaticism of other Pro- 
 testants, the chief whereof was, as I 
 remember, our refusing to acknowledge 
 the primacy and infallibility of the Church 
 of Rome ; how impossible it was that so 
 many ages should never dispute it, till of 
 late ; how unlikely -our Saviour would 
 leave his Church without a visible Head 
 and guide to resort to, during his absence ; 
 with the like usual topic ; so well penned 
 as to the discourse as did by no means 
 seem to me to have been put together by 
 the late King, yet written all with his own 
 hand, blotted and interlined, so as, if 
 indeed it was not given him by some 
 priest, they might be such arguments and 
 reasons as had been inculcated from time 
 to time, and here recollected ; and, in the 
 
 1 [See a?ite, p. 364.] 
 
382 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 conclusion, showing his looking on the 
 Protestant religion (and by name the 
 Church of England) to be without founda- 
 tion, and consequently false and unsafe. 
 When his Majesty had shown him these 
 originals, he was pleased to lend him the 
 copies of these two papers, attested at the 
 bottom in four or five lines under his own 
 hand. 
 
 These were the papers I saw and read. 
 This nice and curious passage I thought fit 
 to set down. Though all the arguments 
 and objections were altogether weak, and 
 have a thousand times been answered by 
 our divines ; they are such as their priests 
 insinuate among their proselytes, as if 
 nothing were Catholic but the Church of 
 Rome, no salvation out of that, no reforma- 
 tion sufferable, bottoming all their errors 
 on St. Peter's successors' unerrable dictator- 
 ship, but proving nothing with any reason, 
 or taking notice of any objection which 
 could be made against it. Here all was 
 taken for granted, and upon it a resolution 
 and preference implied. 
 
 I was heartily sorry to see all this, 
 though it was no other than was to be 
 suspected, by his late Majesty's too great 
 indifference, neglect, and course of life, 
 that he had been perverted, and for secular 
 respects only professed to be of another 
 belief, and thereby giving great advantage 
 to our adversaries, both the Court and 
 generally the youth and great persons of 
 the nation becoming dissolute and highly 
 profane. God was incensed to make his 
 reign very troublesome and unprosperous, 
 by wars, plagues, fires, loss of reputation 
 by an universal neglect of the public for 
 the love of a voluptuous and sensual life, 
 which a vicious Court had brought into 
 credit. I think of it with sorrow and 
 pity, when I consider how good and 
 debonair a nature that unhappy Prince 
 was ; what opportunities he had to have 
 made himself the most renowned King 
 that ever swayed the British sceptre, had 
 he been firm to that Church for which his 
 martyred and blessed father suffered ; and 
 had he been grateful to Almighty God, 
 who so miracuously restored him, with so 
 excellent a religion ; had he endeavoured 
 to own and propagate it as he should have 
 done, not only for the good of his King- 
 dom, but of all the Reformed Churches 
 
 in Christendom, now weakened and near 
 ruined through our remissness and suffering 
 them to be supplanted, persecuted, and 
 destroyed, as in France, which we took no 
 notice of. The consequence of this, time 
 will, show, and I wish it may proceed no 
 further. The emissaries and instruments 
 of the Church of Rome will never rest till 
 they have crushed the Church of England, 
 as knowing that alone to be able to cope 
 with them, and that they can never answer 
 her fairly, but lie abundantly open to the 
 irresistible force of her arguments, antiquity 
 and purity of her doctrine, so that albeit it 
 may move God, for the punishment of a 
 nation so unworthy, to eclipse again the 
 profession of her here, and darkness and 
 superstition prevail, I am most confident 
 the doctrine of the Church of England 
 will never be extinguished, but remain 
 visible, if not eminent, to the consumma- 
 tion of the world. I have innumerable 
 reasons that confirm me in this opinion, 
 which I forbear to mention here. 
 
 In the meantime, as to the discourse of 
 his Majesty with Mr. Pepys, and those 
 papers, as I do exceedingly prefer his 
 Majesty's free and ingenuous profession of 
 what his own religion is, beyond conceal- 
 ment upon any politic account, so I think 
 him of a most sincere and honest nature, 
 one on whose word one may rely, and that 
 he makes a conscience of what he pro- 
 mises, to perform it. In this confidence, 
 I hope that the Church of England may 
 yet subsist, and when it shall please God 
 to open his eyes and turn his heart (for 
 that is peculiarly in the Lord's hands) to 
 flourish also. In all events, whatever do 
 become of the Church of England, it is 
 certainly, of all the Christian professions 
 on the earth, the most primitive, apos- 
 tolical, and excellent. 
 
 8//z October. I had my picture drawn 
 this week by the famous Kneller. 1 
 
 14//?. I went to London about finishing 
 my lodgings at Whitehall. 
 
 15M. Being the King's birthday, there 
 was a solemn ball at Court, and before it 
 music of instruments and voices. I hap- 
 pened by accident to stand the very next to 
 the Queen and the King, who talked with 
 me about the music. 
 
 1 This portrait is now at Wotton House. It was 
 engraved by Thomas Bragg for the 4to of 1818. 
 
1685] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 383 
 
 1 Sl/i October, The King was now building 
 j all that range from east to west by the court 
 and garden to the street, and making a 
 I new chapel for the Queen, whose lodgings 
 I were to be in this new building, as also a 
 new Council-chamber and offices next the 
 south end of the Banqueting-house. I 
 returned home, next morning, to London. 
 22nd. I accompanied my Lady Claren- 
 don to her house at Swallowfield, 1 in 
 Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's 
 lodge at Bagshot ; 2 the house, new repaired 
 and capacious enough for a good family, 
 stands in a park. 
 
 Hence, we went to Swallowfield ; this 
 house is after the ancient building of 
 honourable gentlemen's houses, when they 
 kept up ancient hospitality, but the gardens 
 and waters as elegant as it is possible to 
 make a flat by art and industry, and no 
 mean expense, my lady being so extra- 
 ordinarily skilled in the flowery part, and 
 my lord, in diligence of planting ; so that 
 I have hardly seen a seat which shows 
 more tokens of it than what is to be found 
 here, not only in the delicious and rarest 
 fruits of a garden, but in those innumerable 
 timber trees in the ground about the seat, 
 to the greatest ornament and benefit of the 
 place. There is one orchard of 1000 
 golden, and other cider pippins ; walks 
 and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other 
 trees. The garden is so beset with all 
 manner of sweet shrubs, that it perfumes 
 the air. The distribution also of the 
 quarters, walks, and parterres, is excellent. 
 The nurseries, kitchen-garden full of the 
 most desirable plants ; two very noble 
 orangeries well furnished ; but, above all, 
 the canal and fish ponds, the one fed with 
 a white, the other with a black running 
 water, fed by a quick and swift river, so 
 well and plentifully stored with fish, that 
 for pike, carp, bream, and tench, I never 
 saw anything approaching it. We had at 
 
 1 Sir William Backhouse died seised of the 
 manor of Swallowfield in 1669. His widow, 
 Flower, daughter and heiress of Mr. William 
 Backhouse, d. 1662, married Henry Hyde, Viscount 
 Corn bury, afterwards second Earl of Clarendon 
 (see ante, p. 232), who thus became possessed of 
 this estate. [There is a charming and exhaustive 
 account of Swallowfield and its Owners, by Lady 
 Russell, 1901, which contains an interesting letter 
 from Lady Clarendon to Evelyn.] 
 
 2 See ante, p 370. Mr. Graham was Keeper 
 and Ranger of Bagshot. 
 
 every meal carp and pike, of a size fit for 
 the table of a Prince, and what added to 
 the delight was, to see the hundreds taken 
 by the drag, out of which, the cook stand- 
 ing by, we pointed out what we had most 
 mind to, and had carp that would have 
 been worth at London twenty shillings 
 a-piece. The waters are flagged about 
 with Calamus aro??iaticus •, with which my 
 lady has hung a closet, that retains the 
 smell very perfectly. There is also a cer- 
 tain sweet willow and other exotics ; also a 
 very fine bowling-green, meadow, pasture, 
 and wood : in a word, all that can render 
 a country-seat delightful. There is besides 
 a well-furnished library in the house. 
 
 261/1. We returned to London, having 
 been treated with all sorts of cheer and 
 noble freedom by that most religious and 
 virtuous lady. She was now preparing to 
 go for Ireland with her husband, made 
 Lord-Deputy, 1 and went to this country- 
 house and ancient seat of her father and 
 family, to set things in order during her 
 absence ; but never were good people and 
 neighbours more concerned than all the 
 country (the poor especially) for the de- 
 parture of this charitable woman ; every 
 one was in tears, and she as unwilling to 
 part from them. There was amongst them 
 a maiden of primitive life, the daughter of 
 a poor labouring man, who had sustained 
 her parents (some time since dead) by her 
 labour, and has for many years refused 
 marriage, or to receive any assistance from 
 the parish, besides the little hermitage my 
 lady gives her rent-free ; she lives on four- 
 pence a-day, which she gets by spinning ; 
 says she abounds and can give alms to 
 others, living in great humility and con- 
 tent, without any apparent affectation, or 
 singularity ; she is continually working, 
 praying, or reading, gives a good account 
 of her knowledge in religion, visits the 
 sick ; is not in the least given to talk ; 
 very modest, of a simple, not unseemly 
 behaviour ; of a comely countenance, clad 
 very plain, but clean and tight. In sum, 
 she appears a saint of an extraordinary sort, 
 in so religious a life, as is seldom met with 
 in villages nowadays. 
 
 28M. At the Royal Society, an urn 
 full of bones was presented, dug up in a 
 
 1 [Lord Clarendon was Viceroy of Ireland, 
 1685-86.] 
 
3§4 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 highway, whilst repairing it, in a field in 
 Camberwell, in Surrey ; it was found 
 entire with its cover, amongst many others, 
 believed to be truly Roman and ancient. 
 
 Sir Richard Bulkeley 1 described to us a 
 model of a chariot he had invented, which 
 it was not possible to overthrow in what- 
 ever uneven way it was drawn, giving us a 
 wonderful relation of what it had per- 
 formed in that kind, for ease, expedition, 
 and safety ; there were some inconveniences 
 yet to be remedied — it would not contain 
 more than one person ; was ready to take 
 fire every ten miles ; and being placed and 
 playing on no fewer than ten rollers, it 
 made a most prodigious noise, almost 
 intolerable. A remedy was to be sought 
 for these inconveniences. 
 
 29th October. I was invited to dine at Sir 
 Stephen Fox's with my Lord Lieutenant, 2 
 where was such a dinner for variety of all 
 things as I had seldom seen, and it was 
 so for the trial of a master-cook whom Sir 
 Stephen had recommended to go with his 
 Lordship into Ireland ; there were all the 
 dainties not only of the season, but of 
 what art could add, venison, plain solid 
 meat, fowl, baked and boiled meats, 
 banquet [dessert], in exceeding plenty, 
 and exquisitely dressed. There also dined 
 my Lord Ossory and Lady (the Duke of 
 Beaufort's daughter), my Lady Treasurer, 
 Lord Cornbury, 3 and other visitors. 
 
 31st. I dined at our great Lord Chan- 
 cellor Jeffreys', who used me with much 
 respect. This was the late Chief-Justice 
 who had newly been the Western Circuit 
 to try the Monmouth conspirators, and 
 had formerly done such severe justice 
 amongst the obnoxious in Westminster 
 Hall, for which his Majesty dignified him 
 by creating him first a Baron, and now 
 Lord Chancellor. 4 He had some years 
 past been conversant at Deptford ; is of an 
 assured and undaunted spirit, and has 
 served the Court interest on all the hardiest 
 occasions ; is of nature cruel, and a slave 
 of the Court. 
 
 y-d November. The French persecution 
 of the Protestants raging with the utmost 
 
 1 [Sir Richard Bulkeley, 1644-1710.] 
 
 2 [Lord Clarendon.] 
 
 a [Edward, Lord Cornbury, grandson of the 
 Chancellor, and afterwards third Earl of Clarendon, 
 d. 1723.] • 4 [See ante, p. 378.] 
 
 barbarity, exceeded even what the very 
 heathens used : innumerable persons of the 
 greatest birth and riches leaving all their 
 earthly substance, and hardly escaping 
 with their lives, dispersed through all the 
 countries of Europe. The French tyrant 
 abrogated the Edict of Nantes which had 
 been made in favour of them, and without 
 any cause j 1 on a sudden demolishing all 
 their churches, banishing, imprisoning, and 
 sending to the galleys, all the ministers ; 
 plundering the common people, and ex- 
 posing them to all sorts of barbarous usage 
 by soldiers sent to ruin and prey on them ; 
 taking away their children ; forcing people 
 to the Mass, and then executing them 
 as relapsers ; they burnt their libraries, 
 pillaged their goods, eat up their fields 
 and substance, banished or sent the people 
 to the galleys, and seized on their estates. 
 There had now been numbered to pass 
 through Geneva only (and that by stealth, 
 for all the usual passages were strictly 
 guarded by sea and land) 40,000 towards 
 Switzerland. In Holland, Denmark, and 
 all about Germany, were dispersed some 
 hundred thousands ; besides those in Eng- 
 land, where, though multitudes of all 
 degree sought for shelter and welcome as 
 distressed Christians and confessors, they 
 found least encouragement, by a fatality of 
 the times we were fallen into, and the un- 
 charitable indifference of such as should 
 have embraced them ; and I pray it be not 
 laid to our charge. 3 The famous Claude 4 
 fled to Holland ; Allix 5 and several more 
 
 1 [The "perpetual and irrevocable" Edict of 
 Nantes, 1598, was revoked 12th October, 1685.] 
 
 2 [Cf. the exceedingly interesting Memoirs of 
 Jean Marteilhe of Bergerac, "Condemned to the 
 Galleys of France, for His Religion," 1757, trans- 
 lated in 1758 by Oliver Goldsmith ; also the excel- 
 lent Formats pour la Foioi M. Athanase Coquerel, 
 Fils, 1866.] 
 
 3 ["The bulk of the Protestant population dis- 
 appeared for ever out of France ; in the course of 
 time 400,000 effected their escape, settling in large 
 numbers in England, Brandenburg, and Holland" 
 (Trevelyan's England under the Stuarts, 1904, p. 
 
 439)-l 
 
 4 John Claude, 1619-87, a celebrated French 
 
 Protestant minister, and a distinguished controver- 
 sial writer ; who, at the revocation of the Edict of 
 Nantes, was ordered to quit France in four-and- 
 twenty hours. One of his books was burned, by 
 the direction of James IT., by the hangman, in the 
 Old Exchange, on 5th May, 1686. 
 
 5 Mr. Peter Allix, 1641-1717, a minister of the 
 Reformed Church at Charenton, came over with 
 
i68 5 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 385 
 
 came to London, and persons of great 
 estates came over, who had forsaken all. 
 France was almost dispeopled, the bankers 
 so broken that the tyrant's revenue 
 was exceedingly diminished, manufactures 
 ceased, and everybody there, save the 
 Jesuits, abhorred what was done, nor did 
 the Papists themselves approve it. What 
 the further intention is, time will show ; 
 but doubtless portending some revolution. 
 I was showed the harangue which the 
 Bishop of Valentia on Rhone made in the 
 name of the Clergy, celebrating the French 
 King, as if he was a God, for persecuting 
 the poor Protestants, 1 with this expression 
 in it, "That as his victory over heresy 
 was greater than all the conquests of 
 Alexander and Caesar, it was but what 
 was wished in England ; and that God 
 seemed to raise the French King to this 
 power and magnanimous action, that he 
 might be in capacity to assist in doing the 
 same here." This paragraph is very bold 
 and remarkable ; several reflecting on 
 Archbishop Ussher's prophecy as now be- 
 gun in France, and approaching the ortho- 
 dox in all other reformed churches. One 
 thing was much taken notice of, that the 
 Gazettes which were still constantly printed 
 twice a week, informing us what was done 
 all over Europe, never spake of this wonder- 
 ful proceeding in France ; nor was any 
 relation of it published by any, save what 
 private letters and the persecuted fugitives 
 brought. Whence this silence, I list not 
 to conjecture ; but it appeared very ex- 
 traordinary in a Protestant country that 
 we should know nothing of what Prot- 
 estants suffered, whilst great collections 
 were made for them in foreign places, 
 
 his whole family, and met with great encourage- 
 ment here. He was the author of several learned 
 discourses in defence of Protestantism. His eldest 
 son, John Peter Allix, became a Doctor of Divinity, 
 and, after passing through different preferments, 
 was in 1730 made Dean of Ely, died in 1758, and 
 was buried in his church of Castle Camps in Cam- 
 bridgeshire. 
 
 1 [Cf. Bossuet : — "Touched with so many mar- 
 vels, let our hearts go out to the piety of Louis. 
 Let us raise praises to Heaven and say . . . 
 ' Heresy is no more. God alone could have done 
 so marvellous a thing. King of Heaven, preserve 
 the King of the earth, it is the prayer of the 
 churches ; it is the prayer of the Bishops ' 
 (Oraisons funebres, 1874, p. 219— as translated in 
 Trevelyan's England under the Stuarts, 1904, p. 
 
 439)-3 ' 
 
 more hospitable and Christian to appear- 
 ance. 
 
 $ik November. It being an extraordinary 
 wet morning, and myself indisposed by a 
 very great rheum, I did not go to church, 
 to my very great sorrow, it being the first 
 Gunpowder Conspiracy anniversary that 
 had been kept now these eighty years 
 under a prince of the Roman religion. 
 Bonfires were forbidden on this day ; what 
 does this portend ! 
 
 9M. Began the Parliament. The King 
 in his speech required continuance of a 
 standing force instead of a militia, and 
 indemnity and dispensation to Popish 
 officers from the Test ; demands very un- 
 expected and unpleasing to the Commons. 
 He also required a supply of revenue, 
 which they granted ; but returned no 
 thanks to the King for his speech, till 
 further consideration. 
 
 12th. The Commons postponed finish- 
 ing the bill for the Supply, to consider the 
 Test, and Popish officers ; this was carried 
 but by one voice. 
 
 14th. I dined at Lambeth, my Lord 
 Archbishop 1 carrying me with him in his 
 barge ; there were my Lord - Deputy of 
 Ireland, the Bishops of Ely and St. Asaph, 
 Dr. Sherlock, 2 and other divines; Sir 
 William Hayward, Sir Paul Rycaut, 3 etc. 
 
 20M. The Parliament was adjourned 
 to February, several both of Lords and 
 Commons excepting against some passage 
 of his Majesty's speech relating to the 
 Test, and continuance of Popish officers 
 in command. This was a great surprise 
 in a parliament which people believed 
 would have complied in all things. 
 
 Popish pamphlets and pictures sold 
 publicly ; no books nor answers to them 
 appearing till long after. 
 
 21st. I resigned my trust for composing 
 a difference between Mr. Thynne and his 
 wife. 
 
 22nd. Hitherto was a very wet warm 
 season. 
 
 4th, December. Lord Sunderland was 
 declared President of the Council, and yet 
 
 1 [Dr. Sancroft.] 
 
 2 [Dr. William Sherlock, 1641-1707 ; Master of 
 the Temple, 1685-1704.] 
 
 3 [Sir Paul Rycaut, 1628-1700, author of the 
 Present State of the Ottoman Empire, 1668, etc. 
 He was an F.R.S., and in this year Judge of 
 Admiralty in Ireland.] 
 
 2C 
 
386 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1685 
 
 to hold his Secretary's place. The forces 
 disposed into several quarters through the 
 kingdom are very insolent, on which are 
 great complaints. 
 
 Lord Brandon, tried for the late con- 
 spiracy, was condemned and pardoned ; l 
 so was Lord Grey, his accuser and wit- 
 ness. 2 
 
 Persecution in France raging, the French 
 insolently visit our vessels, and take away 
 the fugitive Protestants ; some escape in 
 barrels. 
 
 10M Dece?nber. To Greenwich, being 
 put into the new Commission of Sewers. 
 
 13M. Dr. Patrick, 3 Dean of Peter- 
 borough, preached at Whitehall, before 
 the Princess of Denmark ; who, since his 
 Majesty came to the Crown, always sat in 
 the King's closet, and had the same bow- 
 ings and ceremonies applied to the place 
 where she was, as his Majesty had when 
 there in person. 
 
 Dining at Mr. Pepys's, Dr. Slayer 
 showed us an experiment of a wonderful 
 nature, pouring first a very cold liquor into 
 a glass, and super-fusing on it another, to 
 appearance cold and clear liquor also ; it 
 first produced a white cloud, then boiling, 
 divers coruscations and actual flames of 
 fire mingled with the liquor, which being 
 a little shaken together, fixed divers suns 
 and stars of real fire, perfectly globular, 
 on the sides of the glass, and which there 
 stuck like so many constellations, burning 
 most vehemently, and resembling stars and 
 heavenly bodies, and that for a long space. 
 It seemed to exhibit a theory of the educ- 
 tion of light out of the chaos, and the 
 fixing or gathering of the universal light 
 into luminous bodies. This matter, or 
 phosphorus, was made out of human blood 
 and urine, elucidating the vital flame, or 
 heat, in animal bodies. A very noble 
 experiment ! 
 
 161 h. I accompanied my Lord -Lieu- 
 tenant as far as St. Albans, there going 
 out of town with him near 200 coaches of 
 all the great officers and nobility. The 
 next morning taking leave, I returned to 
 London. 
 
 \%th. I dined at the great entertain- 
 ment his Majesty gave the Venetian Am- 
 
 1 [Charles Gerard, Lord Brandon, 1659-1701, 
 afterwards second Earl of Macclesfield.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 348.] 3 [See ante^ p. 264.] 
 
 bassadors, Signors Zenno and Justiniani, 
 accompanied with ten more noble Ven- 
 etians of their most illustrious families, 
 Cornaro, Mocenigo, etc., who came to 
 congratulate their Majesties coming to the 
 Crown. The dinner was most magnificent 
 and plentiful, at four tables, with music, 
 kettle-drums, and trumpets, which sounded 
 upon a whistle at every health. The ban- 
 quet [dessert] was twelve vast chargers 
 piled up so high that those who sat one 
 against another could hardly see each 
 other. Of these sweetmeats, which doubt- 
 less were some days piling up in that' ex- 
 quisite manner, the Ambassadors touched 
 not, but leaving them to the spectators 
 who came out of curiosity to see the dinner, 
 were exceedingly pleased to see in what, a 
 moment of time all that curious work was 
 demolished, the comfitures voided, and the 
 tables cleared. Thus his Majesty enter- 
 tained them three days, which (for the 
 table only) cost him ^600, as the Clerk of 
 the Green Cloth (Sir William Boreman) 
 assured me. Dinner ended, I saw their 
 procession, or cavalcade, to Whitehall, in- 
 numerable coaches attending. The two 
 Ambassadors had four coaches of their 
 own, and fifty footmen (as I remember), 
 besides other equipage as splendid as the 
 occasion would permit, the Court being 
 still in mourning. Thence, I went to the 
 audience which they had in the Queen's 
 presence-chamber, the Banqueting- house 
 being full of goods and furniture till the 
 galleries on the garden - side, council- 
 chamber, and new cnapel, now in build- 
 ing, were finished. They went to their 
 audience in those plain black gowns and 
 caps which they constantly wear in the 
 city of Venice. I was invited to have 
 accompanied the two Ambassadors in their 
 coach to supper that night, returning now 
 to their own lodgings, as no longer at 
 the King's expense ; but, being weary, I 
 excused myself. 
 
 igt/i. My Lord Treasurer made me 
 dine with him, where I became acquainted 
 with Monsieur Barrillon, 1 the French Am- 
 bassador, a learned and crafty advocate. 
 
 1 [Paul Barrillon d'Amoncourt, Marquis de 
 Branges. He succeeded Honore Courtin as Am- 
 bassador. It was the despatches of Barrillon which 
 revealed the bribes received by Charles II. and his 
 ministers from France.] 
 
1 686] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 387 
 
 20th December. Dr. Turner, 1 brother to 
 the Bishop of Ely, 2 and sometime tutor to my 
 son, preached at Whitehall on Mark viii. 38, 
 concerning the submission' of Christians to 
 their persecutors, in which were some pas- 
 sages indiscreet enough, considering the 
 time, and the rage of the inhuman French 
 tyrant against the poor Protestants. 
 
 22nd. Our patent for executing the 
 office of Privy Seal during the absence of 
 the Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland, being this 
 day sealed by the Lord Chancellor, we 
 went afterwards to St. James's, where the 
 Court then was on occasion of building at 
 Whitehall ; his Majesty delivered the seal 
 to my Lord Teviot 3 and myself, the other 
 Commissioner not being come, and then 
 gave us his hand to kiss. There were the 
 two Venetian Ambassadors and a world 
 of company ; amongst the rest the first 
 Popish Nuncio 4 that had been in England 
 since the Reformation ; so wonderfully 
 were things changed, to the universal 
 jealousy. 
 
 24///. We were all three Commissioners 
 sworn on our knees by the Clerk of the 
 Crown, before my Lord Chancellor, three 
 several oaths ; allegiance, supremacy, and 
 the oath belonging to the Lord Privy 
 Seal, which last we took standing. After 
 this, the Lord Chancellor invited us all to 
 dinner, but it being Christmas - eve we 
 desired to be excused, intending at three 
 in the afternoon to seal divers things which 
 lay ready at the office ; so attended by 
 three of the Clerks of the Signet, we met 
 and sealed. Amongst other things was a 
 pardon to West, who, being privy to the 
 late conspiracy, had revealed the accom- 
 plices to save his own neck. There were 
 also another pardon and two indeniza- 
 tions ; 5 and so agreeing to a fortnight's 
 vacation, I returned home. 
 
 3 1 st. Recollecting the passages of the 
 year past, and having made up accounts, 
 humbly besought Almighty God to pardon 
 
 1 [Dr. Thomas Turner, 1645-1714, afterwards 
 President of Corpus Christi College, Oxford ; at 
 this date Archdeacon of Essex, and Canon of St. 
 Paul's.] 2 [Francis Turner (see ante, p. 347).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 229; and post, under 30th May, 
 1694.] 
 
 4 Count D' Adda, made afterwards a Cardinal 
 for his services in this embassy. There is a mezzo- 
 tin to print of him by Isaac Beckett. 
 
 5 [Indenization = the process of making a denizen 
 .(N.E.D.).] 
 
 those my sins which had provoked him to 
 discompose my sorrowful family ; that he 
 would accept of our humiliation, and in 
 his good time restore comfort to it. I 
 also blessed God for all his undeserved 
 mercies and preservations, begging the 
 continuance of his grace and preservation. 
 — The winter had hitherto been extra- 
 ordinary wet and mild. 
 
 1685-86: \st January. Imploring the 
 continuance of God's providential care for 
 the year now entered, I went to tjie public 
 devotions. The Dean of the Chapel and 
 Clerk of the Closet put out, viz. Bishop 
 of London 1 and . . ., and Rochester 2 
 and Durham 3 put in their places ; the 
 former had opposed the toleration in- 
 tended, and shown a worthy zeal for the 
 reformed religion as established. 
 
 6th. I dined with the Archbishop of 
 York y where was Peter Walsh, 4 that 
 Romish priest so well known for his 
 moderation, professing the Church of Eng- 
 land to be a true member of the Catholic 
 Church. He is used to go to our public 
 prayers without scruple, and did not ac- 
 knowledge the Pope's infallibility, only 
 primacy of order. 
 
 igt//. Passed the Privy Seal, amongst 
 others, the creation of Mrs. Sedley 5 (con- 
 cubine to ) Countess of Dorchester, 
 
 which the Queen took very grievously, so 
 as for two dinners, standing near her, I 
 observed she hardly eat one morsel, nor 
 spake one word to the King, or to any 
 about her, though at other times she used 
 to be extremely pleasant, full of discourse 
 and good humour. The Roman Catholics 
 were also very angry ; because they had so 
 long valued the sanctity of their religion 
 and proselytes. 
 
 1 [Dr. Compton (see ante, p. 267).] 
 
 2 [Dr. Sprat (see ante, p. 267). 1 
 
 3 [Dr. Nathaniel Crew, 1633-1722.] 
 
 4 [Peter Walsh, or Valesius, 1618-88, an Irish 
 Franciscan, and controversialist.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 313. Catherine Sedley, 1657-1717, 
 daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, Bart., one of the 
 famous knot of wits and courtiers of King Charles's 
 time. He was also a poet, and wrote some dramatic 
 pieces. The Countess had a daughter by King 
 James II., and was afterwards married to David, 
 Earl of Portmore, by whom she had two sons. 
 Lord Dorset's well known - verses, "Tell me, 
 Dorinda, why so gay," etc., are addressed to this 
 lady. Her father's sarcasm, when he A'oted for 
 filling up the vacant throne with the Prince and 
 
 I Princess of Orange, is well known : " King James 
 
3 8S 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1686 
 
 Dryden, the famous play-writer, 1 and 
 his two sons, and Mrs. Nelly 2 (miss 3 to 
 
 the late ) were- said to go to mass ; 
 
 such proselytes were no great loss to the 
 Church. 
 
 This night was burnt to the ground my 
 Lord Montagu's palace in Bloomsbury, 4 
 than which for painting and furniture there 
 was nothing more glorious in England. 
 This happened by the negligence of a 
 servant airing, as they call it, some of the 
 goods by the fire in a moist season ; indeed, 
 so wet and mild a season had scarce been 
 seen in man's memory. 
 
 At this Seal there also passed the creation 
 of Sir Henry Waldegrave 5 to be a Peer. 
 He had married one of the King's natural 
 daughters by Mrs. Churchill. These two 
 Seals my brother Commissioners passed in 
 the morning before I came to town, at 
 which I was not displeased. We likewise 
 passed Privy Seals for ^276,000 upon 
 several accounts, pensions, guards, ward- 
 robes, privy purse, etc., besides divers 
 pardons, and one more which I must not 
 forget (and which by Providence I was not 
 present at), one Mr. Lytcott to be Secretary 
 to the Ambassador to Rome. We being 
 three Commissioners, any two were a 
 quorum. 
 
 2\st January. I dined at my Lady 
 
 Arlington's, Groom of the Stole to the 
 
 Queen Dowager, at Somerset House, where 
 
 dined the Countesses of Devonshire, Dover, 
 
 etc. ; in all eleven ladies of quality, no 
 
 man but myself being there. 
 
 made my daughter a Countess, and I have been 
 helping to make his daughter a Queen." 
 
 1 [In Birkbeck Hill's admirable edition of John- 
 son's Poets, 1905, i. 376-77, a note suggests that 
 Evelyn antedated Dryden's conversion ; and 
 cites the following anecdote: "The Bishop of 
 Carlisle wrote on Jan. 27, 1686-87, that Mr. Finch; 
 the new Warden of All Souls, an ingenious young 
 gentleman, lately meeting with Mr. Dryden in a 
 coffee-house in London, publickly before all the 
 company wished him much joy of his new religion. 
 1 Sir,' said Dryden, 'you are very much mistaken ; 
 my religion is the old religion.' ' Nay,' replyed 
 the other, 'whatever it be in itself I am sure 'tis 
 new to you, for within these 3 days you had no 
 religion at all' " (Le Fleming MSS., Hist. MSS. 
 Comm. Report xii. App. 7, p. 202).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 364.] 3 [See ante, p. 218.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 322.] 
 
 5 He was the fourth Baronet, and died at Paris 
 in 1689. He was created Baron Waldegrave, 30th 
 January, 1686, being at that time Comptroller of 
 the King's Household. [His wife was Henrietta, 
 James's natural daughter by Arabella Churchill.] 
 
 24th. Unheard-of cruelties to the per- 
 secuted Protestants of France, such as 
 hardly any age has seen the like, even 
 among the Pagans. 
 
 6th February. Being the day on which 
 his Majesty began his reign, by order of 
 Council it was to be solemnised with a 
 particular office and sermon, which the 
 Bishop of Ely 1 preached at Whitehall on 
 Numb. xi. 12 ; a Court oration upon the 
 Regal Office. It was much wondered at, 
 that this day, which was that of his late 
 Majesty's death, should be kept as a 
 festival, and not [instead of] the day of 
 the present King's coronation. It is said 
 to have been formerly the custom, though 
 not till now since the reign of King 
 James I. 
 
 The Duchess of Monmouth, 2 being in 
 the same seat with me at church, appeared 
 with a very sad and afflicted countenance. 
 
 8th. I took the Test in Westminster 
 Hall, before the Lord Chief- Justice. 3 I 
 now came to lodge at Whitehall, in the 
 Lord Privy Seal's lodgings. 
 
 I2lh. My great Cause was heard by 
 my Lord Chancellor, who granted me a 
 re-hearing. I had six eminent lawyers, 
 my antagonist three, whereof one was the 
 smooth-tongued Solicitor, 4 whom my Lord 
 Chancellor reproved in great passion for a 
 very small occasion. Blessed be God for 
 his great goodness to me this day ! 
 
 igth. Many bloody and notorious duels 
 were fought about this time. The Duke 
 of Grafton 5 killed Mr. Stanley, brother 
 to the Earl of [Derby], indeed upon an 
 almost insufferable provocation. It is to 
 be hoped that his Majesty will at last 
 severely remedy this unchristian custom. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now Secretary 
 of State, President of the Council, and 
 Premier-Minister. 
 
 1st March. Came Sir Gilbert Gerrard 
 to treat with me about his son's marrying 
 my daughter, Susanna. The father being 
 obnoxious, and in some suspicion and 
 displeasure of the King, I would receive 
 no proposal till his Majesty had given me 
 
 1 Dr. Francis Turner (see ante, p. 347). 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 290.] 
 
 3 [Sir Edward Herbert. See post, p. 391. J 
 
 4 Heneage Finch, 1647-1719, Solicitor-General, 
 called Silver Tongue, from his mannerof speaking. 
 [He was afterwards first Earl of Aylesford.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 287.] 
 
i686] 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 389 
 
 leave, which he was pleased to do ; but 
 after several meetings we brake off, on his 
 not being willing to secure any thing com- 
 petent for my daughter's children ; besides 
 that I found most of his estate was in the 
 coal-pits as far off as Newcastle, and on 
 leases from the Bishop of Durham, who 
 had power to make concurrent leases, with 
 other difficulties. 
 
 "]tk March. Dr. Frampton, Bishop of 
 Gloucester, 1 preached on Psalm xliv. 17, 
 18, 19, showing the several afflictions of 
 the Church of Christ from the primitives to 
 this day, applying exceedingly to the present 
 conjuncture, when many were wavering in 
 their minds, and great temptations appear- 
 ing through the favour now found by 
 the Papists, so as the people were full 
 of jealousies and discouragement. The 
 Bishop magnified the Church of England, 
 exhorting to constancy and perseverance. 
 
 \Otlu A Council of the Royal Society 
 about disposing of Dr. Ray's book of 
 Fishes, which was printed at the expense 
 of the Society. 2 
 
 12th. A docket was to be sealed, im- 
 porting a lease of twenty-one years to one 
 Hall, who styled himself his Majesty's 
 printer (he lately turned Papist) for the 
 printing Missals, Offices, Lives of Saints, 
 Portals, Primers, etc., books expressly 
 forbidden to be printed or sold, by divers 
 Acts of Parliament ; I refused to put my 
 seal to it, making my exceptions, so it was 
 laid by. 
 
 14th. The Bishop of Bath and Wells 3 
 preached on John vi. 17, a most excellent 
 and pathetic discourse : after he had re- 
 commended the duty of fasting and other 
 penitential duties, he exhorted to constancy 
 in the Protestant religion, detestation of 
 the unheard-of cruelties of the French, and 
 stirring up to a liberal contribution. This 
 sermon was the more acceptable, as it was 
 unexpected from a Bishop who had under- 
 gone the censure of being inclined to 
 Popery, the contrary whereof no man 
 could show more. This indeed did all 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 2 John Ray, 1627-1705, the celebrated botanist 
 and zoologist. He was a liberal contributor to the 
 Transactions of the Royal Society, of which he 
 was elected a fellow in 1667. [The Historia 
 Piscium, folio, 1686, was based upon the material 
 left by his friend and pupil, Francis Willughby, 
 1635-72.] 3 [See ante, p. 364.] 
 
 our Bishops, to the disabusing and re- 
 proach of all their delators ; for none 
 were more zealous against Popery than 
 they were. 
 
 1 6th. I was at a review of the army 
 about London, in Hyde Park, about 6000 
 horse and foot, in excellent order ; his 
 Majesty and infinity of people being 
 present. 
 
 i~th. I went to my house in the 
 country, refusing to be present at what was 
 to pass at the Privy Seal the next day. In 
 the morning, Dr. Tenison l preached an 
 incomparable discourse at Whitehall, on 
 Timothy ii. 3, 4. 
 
 24th. Dr. Cradock a (Provost of Eton) 
 preached at the same place on Psalm xlix. 
 13, showing the vanity of earthly enjoy- 
 ments. 
 
 2W1. Dr. White, 3 Bishop of Peter- 
 borough, preached in a very eloquent 
 s'tyle, on Matthew xxvi. 29, submission 
 to the will of God on all accidents, and at 
 all times. 
 
 29^. The Duke of Northumberland (a 
 natural son of the late King by the Duchess 
 of Cleveland), marrying very meanly, with 
 the help of his brother Grafton, attempted 
 in vain to spirit away his wife. 
 
 A Brief was read in all churches for 
 relieving the French Protestants, who came 
 here for protection from the unheard-of 
 cruelties of the King. 
 
 2nd April. Sir Edward Hales, a Papist, 
 made Governor of Dover Castle. 4 
 
 15^/z. The Archbishop of York 5 now 
 died of the small-pox, aged 62, a corpulent 
 man. He was my special loving friend, 
 and whilst Bishop of Rochester (from 
 whence he was translated) my excellent 
 neighbour. He was an inexpressible loss 
 to the whole church, and that Province 
 especially, being a learned, wise, stout, 
 and most worthy prelate ; I look on this 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 330. 1 2 [See ante, p. 321.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Thomas White, 1628-98. He was one of 
 the Bishops who petitioned against the second 
 Declaration of Indulgence.] 
 
 4 " Not taking the Test," Burnet tells us, "his 
 coachman was set up to inform against him, and 
 to claim the 500/. that the law gave to the informer. 
 When this was to be brought to trial, the Judges 
 were secretly asked their opinions : And such as 
 were not clear to judge as the Court did direct 
 were turned out " (History 0/ His Own Time, 
 1724, i. p. 669). Half of them were dismissed. 
 
 5 Dr. John Dolben [see ante, p. 350]. 
 
39° 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1686 
 
 as a great stroke to the poor Church of 
 England, now in this defecting period. 
 
 l8t/i April. In the afternoon I went 
 to Camberwell to visit Dr. Parr. 1 After 
 sermon, I accompanied him to his house, 
 where he showed me the Life and Letters 
 of the late learned Primate of Armagh 
 (Ussher), 2 and among them that letter of 
 Bishop Bramhall's to the Primate, giving 
 notice of the Popish practices to pervert 
 this nation, by sending a hundred priests 
 into England, who were to conform them- 
 selves to all sectaries and conditions for 
 the more easily dispersing their doctrine 
 amongst us. This letter was the cause of 
 the whole impression being seized, upon 
 pretence that it was a political or historical 
 account of things not relating to theology, 
 though it had been licensed by the Bishop ; 
 which plainly showed what an interest the 
 Papists now had, — that a Protestant book, 
 containing the life and letters of so eminent; 
 a man, was not to be published. There 
 were also many letters to and from most of 
 the learned persons his correspondents in 
 Europe. The book will, I doubt not, 
 struggle through this unjust impediment. 
 
 Several Judges were put out, and new 
 complying ones put in. 
 
 25//Z. This day was read in our church 
 the Brief for a collection for relief of the 
 Protestant French so cruelly, barbarously, 
 and inhumanly oppressed without anything 
 being laid to their charge. It had been 
 long expected, and at last with difficulty 
 procured to be published, the interest 
 of the French Ambassador obstructing it. 
 . $tk May. There being a Seal, it was 
 feared we should be required to pass a 
 docket dispensing with Dr. Obadiah 
 Walker 3 and four more, whereof one was 
 an apostate curate of Putney, 4 the others 
 officers of University College, Oxford, who 
 hold their masterships, fellowships, and 
 cures, and keep public schools, and enjoy 
 all former emoluments, notwithstanding 
 they no more frequented or used the public 
 forms of prayers, or communion, with the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 283.] 
 
 2 [Parr's Life of James, Archbishop of Armagh, 
 was published in this year.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 148.] 
 
 4 Edward Scfater, 1623-99, who first apostatised 
 from Protestantism, on the King's accession, and 
 then, in 1688, read his recantation from Popery, 
 and again became a Protestant. 
 
 Church of England, or took the Test or 
 oaths of allegiance and supremacy, con- 
 trary to twenty Acts of Parliament ; which 
 dispensation being also contrary to his 
 Majesty's own gracious declaration at the 
 beginning of his reign, gave umbrage (as 
 well it might) to every good Protestant ; 
 nor could we safely have passed it under 
 the Privy Seal, wherefore it was done 
 by immediate warrant, signed by Mr. 
 Solicitor. 
 
 This Walker was a learned person, of a 
 monkish life, to whose tuition I had more 
 than thirty years since recommended the 
 sons of my worthy friend, Mr. Hildeyard, 
 of Horsley in Surrey, 1 believing him to be 
 far from what he proved — a hypocritical 
 concealed Papist — by which he perverted 
 the eldest son of Mr. Hildeyard, Sir 
 Edward Hales's eldest son, and several 
 more, to the great disturbance of the whole 
 nation, as well as of the University, as by 
 his now public defection appeared. All 
 engines being now at work to bring in 
 Popery, which God in mercy prevent ! 
 
 This day was burnt in the old Exchange, 
 by the common hangman, a translation of 
 a book written by the famous Monsieur 
 Claude, relating only matters of fact 
 concerning the horrid massacres and bar- 
 barous proceedings of the French King 
 against his Protestant subjects, 2 without 
 any refutation of any facts therein ; so 
 mighty a power and ascendant here had 
 the French Ambassador, who was doubt- 
 less in great indignation at the pious and 
 truly generous charity of all the nation, for 
 the relief of those miserable sufferers who 
 came over for shelter. 
 
 About this time also, the Duke of Savoy, 
 instigated by the French King to extirpate 
 the Protestants of Piedmont, slew many 
 thousands of those innocent people, so that 
 there seemed to be an universal design 
 to destroy all that would not go to 
 mass, throughout Europe. Quod Avertat 
 D. O. M. ! No faith in princes ! 
 
 12th. I refused to put the Privy Seal 
 to Doctor Walker's license' for printing 
 and publishing divers Popish books, of 
 which I complained both to my Lord of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 163.]* 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 384. The book was that entitled 
 Complaints of the Cruel Treatment of the 
 Protestants in France, London, 1686, 8vo.] 
 
1 686] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 39i 
 
 Canterbury (with whom I went to advise 
 in the Council-Chamber), and to my Lord 
 Treasurer that evening at his lodgings. 
 My Lord of Canterbury's advice 1 was, 
 that I should follow my own conscience 
 therein ; Mr. Treasurer's, that if in con- 
 science I could dispense with it, for any 
 other hazard he believed there was none. 
 Notwithstanding this, I persisted in my 
 refusal. 
 
 29M May. There was no sermon on this 
 anniversary, as there usually had been ever 
 since the reign of the present King. 
 
 2nd June. Such storms, rain, and foul 
 weather, seldom known at this time of the 
 year. The camp ' at Hounslow Heath, 
 from sickness and other inconveniences of 
 weather, forced to retire to quarters ; the 
 storms being succeeded by excessive hot 
 weather, many grew sick. Great feasting 
 there, especially in Lord Dunbarton's 
 quarters. 2 There were many jealousies 
 and discourses of what was the meaning of 
 this encampment. 3 
 
 A seal this day ; mostly pardons and 
 discharges of Knight-Baronets' fees, which 
 having been passed over for so many 
 years, did greatly disoblige several families 
 who had served his Majesty. Lord Tyr- 
 connel 4 gone to Ireland, with great powers 
 and commissions, giving as much cause of 
 talk as the camp, especially nineteen new 
 Privy- Councillors and Judges being now 
 made, amongst which but three Pro- 
 testants, and Tryconnel made General. 
 
 New Judges also here, among which was 
 Milton, 6 a Papist (brother to that Milton 6 
 who wrote for the Regicides), who pre- 
 
 1 Dr. Sancroft. Burnet describes him as a timid 
 man {History of His Own Time, 1734, ii. p. 135)- 
 See also ante, p. 364. 
 
 2 [George Douglas, Earl of Dunbarton, 1638-92. 
 He had suppressed Argyll's rising (see ante, 
 
 P- 373>-l . , . _ , ... 
 
 3 [It consisted of 13,000 men. But the soldiers 
 
 were by no means hostile to the populace, and the 
 camp of Hounslow became, in Macaulay's words, 
 " merely a gay suburb of the capital " (ch. vi.).] 
 
 * [Richard Talbot, 1630-91, Earl, and afterwards 
 Duke of Tyrconnel. He succeeded Clarendon as 
 Viceroy of Ireland in 1687.] 
 
 5 Sir Christopher Milton, 1615-93, made a Baron 
 of the Exchequer. He did not hold his office 
 long. ["His constitution being too weak for 
 business"— says Johnson— "he retired before any 
 disreputable compliances became necessary " (Lives 
 of the Poets, Birkbeck Hill's edition, 1905, i. 85).] 
 
 8 ["That Milton" is the author of Paradise 
 Lost.] 
 
 sumed to take his place without passing 
 the Test. Scotland refused to grant liberty 
 of mass to the Papists there. 
 
 The French persecution more inhuman 
 than ever. The Protestants in Savoy 
 successfully resist the French dragoons 
 sent to murder them. 
 
 The King's chief physician in Scotland 
 apostatising from the Protestant religion, 
 does of his own accord publish his recanta- 
 tion at Edinburgh. 1 
 
 nth. I went to see Myddelton's 2 recep- 
 tacle of water at the New River, and the 
 new Spa Wells near. 3 
 
 20M. An extraordinary season of violent 
 and sudden rain. The camp still in tents. 
 
 24th. My Lord - Treasurer settled my 
 great business with Mr. Pretyman, 4 to 
 which I hope God will at last give a 
 prosperous issue. 
 
 25M. Now his Majesty, beginning with 
 Dr. Sharp 5 and Tully, b proceeded to 
 silence and suspend divers excellent divines 
 for preaching against Popery. 
 
 2"jth. I had this day been married 
 thirty-nine years — blessed be God for all 
 his mercies ! 
 
 The new very young Lord Chief-Justice 
 Herbert 7 declared on the bench, that the 
 
 1 Burnet informs us in his History of His Own 
 Times, 1724, i. p. 679, that this Sir Robert Sibbald 
 (1641-1722), " the most learned antiquary in Scot- 
 land, who had lived in a course of philosophical 
 vertue, but in great doubt as to revealed religion, 
 was prevailed upon by the Earl of Perth to turn 
 Papist " ; but he soon became ashamed of having 
 done so, on so little inquiry. Upon this he pro- 
 ceeded to London for some months, retiring from 
 all company, and underwent a deep course of 
 study, by which he came to see into the errors of 
 Popery. He then returned to Scotland, and pub- 
 lished, as Evelyn tells us, his recantation openly in 
 a church. 
 
 2 [Sir Hugh Myddelton, 1560-1631. His arti- 
 ficial New River, for supplying the city of London 
 with water, was opened 29th September, 1620.] 
 
 3 [I.e. " Sadler's New Tunbridge Wells," 
 Clerkenwell, afterwards known as " Sadler's 
 Wells," opened c. 1684.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 145, and p. 185.] 
 
 5 Dr. John Sharp, 1645-1714, Dean of Norwich, 
 famous for having been one of the first victims to 
 the intolerance of James II., who caused him to be 
 suspended for preaching against Popery. After 
 the Revolution he was made Dean of Canterbury, 
 and subsequently Archbishop of York. 
 
 6 [George Tully, d. 1697, another champion of 
 Protestantism whom James endeavoured to silence 
 by persecution.] 
 
 7 [Sir Edward Herbert, 1648-98, Chief Justice of 
 King's Bench.] 
 
392 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEL YN 
 
 Ti686 
 
 government of England was entirely in the 
 King ; that the Crown was absolute ; that 
 penal laws were powers lodged in the 
 Crown to enable the King to force the 
 execution of the law, but were not bars 
 to bind the King's power ; that he could 
 pardon all offences against the law, and 
 forgive the penalties, and why could he not 
 dispense with them, by which the Test was 
 abolished ? Every one was astonished. 
 Great jealousies as to what would be the 
 end of these proceedings. 
 
 6th July. I supped with the Countess 
 of Rochester, where was also the Duchess 
 of Buckingham and Madame de Governe, 
 whose daughter was married to the Marquis 
 of Halifax's son. She made me a character 
 of the French King and Dauphin, and of 
 the persecution ; that they kept much of 
 the cruelties from the King's knowledge ; 
 that the Dauphin was so afraid of his 
 father, that he durst not let anything 
 appear of his sentiments ; that he hated 
 letters and priests, spent all his time in 
 hunting, and seemed to take no notice of 
 what was passing. 
 
 This lady was of a great family and for- 
 tune and had fled hither for refuge. 
 
 %tk. I waited on the Archbishop at 
 Lambeth, where I dined and met the 
 famous preacher and writer, Dr. Allix, 1 
 doubtless a most excellent and learned 
 person. The Archbishop and he spoke 
 Latin together, and that very readily. 
 
 nt/i. Dr. Meggot, Dean of Win- 
 chester, 2 preacher before the Household 
 in St. George's Chapel at Windsor, the 
 late King's glorious chapel now seized on 
 by the mass - priests. Dr. Cartwright, 
 Dean of Ripon, 3 preached before the 
 great men of the Court in the same place. 
 
 We had now the sad news of the Bishop 
 of Oxford's 4 death, an extraordinary loss 
 to the poor Church at this time. Many 
 candidates for his Bishopric and Deanery, 
 Dr. Parker, 5 South, Aldrich, etc. Dr. 
 Walker 6 (now apostatising) came to Court, 
 and was doubtless very busy. 
 
 13M. Note, that standing by the 
 
 1 See ante, p. 384. 2 [See ante, p. 379.] 
 
 3 [Dr. Thomas Cartwright, 1635-89, afterwards 
 Bishop of Chester.] 
 
 4 Dr. John Fell (see ante, p. 213). 
 
 5 [Dr. Samuel Parker, 1640-88, obtained it (see 
 Post, under 23rd March, 1688).] 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 390.] 
 
 Queen at basset (cards), I observed that 
 she was exceedingly concerned for the loss 
 of £%o ; her outward affability much 
 changed to stateliness, since she has been 
 exalted. 
 
 The season very rainy and inconvenient 
 for the camps. His Majesty very cheerful. 
 \Afth. Was sealed at our office the Con- 
 stitution of certain Commissioners to take 
 upon them full power of all Ecclesiastical 
 affairs, in as unlimited a manner, or rather 
 greater, than the late High Commission- 
 Court, abrogated by Parliament ; for it had 
 not only faculty to inspect and visit all 
 Bishops' dioceses, but to change what laws 
 and statutes they should think fit to alter 
 among the Colleges, though founded by 
 private men ; to punish, suspend, fine, 
 etc., give oaths and call witnesses. The 
 main drift was to suppress zealous preachers. 
 In sum, it was the whole power of a 
 Vicar - General — note the consequence ! 
 Of the Clergy the Commissioners were the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury [Sancroft], 
 Bishop of Durham [Crew], and Rochester 
 [Sprat] ; of the Temporals, the Lord 
 Treasurer, the Lord Chancellor [Jeffreys] 
 (who alone was ever to be of the quorum), 
 the Chief- Justice [Herbert], and Lord 
 President [Earl of Sunderland]. 
 
 \%th. I went to see Sir John Chardin, 
 at Greenwich. 1 
 
 4tA August. I dined at Signor Verrio's,' 2 
 the famous Italian painter, now settled in 
 his Majesty's garden at St. James's, which 
 he had made a very delicious Paradise. 
 
 8t/i. Our vicar * gone to dispose of his 
 country living in Rutlandshire, having St. 
 Dunstan in the East given him by the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 I went to visit the Marquis Ruvigny, 
 now my neighbour at Greenwich, retired 
 from the persecution in France. He was 
 the Deputy of all the Protestants of that 
 kingdom in the Parliament of Paris, and 
 several times Ambassador in this and other 
 Courts ; a person of great learning and 
 experience. 4 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 390.] 2 [See a?ite, p. 327.] 
 
 3 [Mr. Holden (see a7ite, p. 289).] 
 
 4 His son, Henri de Massue de Ruvigny, second 
 Marquis de Ruvigny, 1648-1720, was with King 
 William in Ireland, and was made first Earl of 
 Galway, but was dismissed through, the violence of 
 party, being a Frenchman, though his conduct had 
 been in every respect unexceptionable. 
 
1 6861 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 393 
 
 St/t September. Dr. Compton, Bishop 
 of London, 1 was on Monday suspended, 
 on pretence of not silencing Dr. Sharp of 
 St. Giles's, for something of a sermon in 
 which he zealously reproved the doctrine 
 of the Roman Catholics. The Bishop 
 having consulted the civilians, they told 
 him he could not by any law proceed 
 against Dr. Sharp without producing wit- 
 nesses, and impleading according to form ; 
 but it was overruled by my Lord Chan- 
 cellor, and the Bishop sentenced without 
 so much as being heard to any purpose. 
 This was thought a very extraordinary way 
 of proceeding, and was universally re- 
 sented, and so much the rather for that 
 two Bishops, Durham 2 and Rochester, 3 
 sitting in the Commission and giving their 
 suffrages, the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 refused to sit amongst them. He was 
 only suspended ab officio, and that was 
 soon after taken off. He was brother to 
 the Earl of Northampton, had once been 
 a soldier, had travelled in Italy, but 
 became a sober, grave, and excellent 
 Prelate. 
 
 12th. Buda now taken from the Turks ; 
 a form of Thanksgiving was ordered to be 
 used in the (as yet remaining) Protestant 
 chapels and church of Whitehall and 
 Windsor. 
 
 The King of Denmark was besieging 
 Hamburgh, no doubt by the French con- 
 trivance, to embroil the Protestant Princes 
 in a new war, that Holland, etc., being 
 engaged, matter for new quarrel might 
 arise: the unheard-of persecution of the 
 poor Protestants still raging more than 
 ever. 
 
 22?id. The Danes retire from Ham- 
 burgh, the Protestant Princes appearing 
 for their succour, and the Emperor sending 
 his Minatories to the King of Denmark, 
 and also requiring the restoration of the 
 Duke of Saxe-Gotha. Thus it pleased 
 God to defeat the French designs, which 
 were evidently to kindle a new war. 
 
 14/// October. His Majesty's birthday ; 
 I was at his rising in his bedchamber, 
 afterwards in the park, where four com- 
 panies of guards were drawn up. The 
 officers, etc. , wonderfully rich and gallant ; 
 they did not head their troops, but their 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 267.] 2 Crew. 
 
 3 Sprat : he afterwards would not sit. 
 
 next officers, the colonels being on horse- 
 back by the King whilst they marched. 
 The ladies not less splendid at Court, 
 where there was a ball at night ; but small 
 appearance of quality. All the shops both 
 in the City and suburbs were shut up, and 
 kept as solemnly as any holiday. Bonfires 
 at night in Westminster, but forbidden in 
 the City. 
 
 17M. Dr. Patrick, Dean of Peter- 
 borough, 1 preached at Covent Garden 
 Church on Ephes. v. 18, 19, showing the 
 custom of the primitive saints in serving 
 God with hymns, and their frequent use of 
 them upon all occasions : perstringing 2 
 the profane way of mirth and intemper- 
 ance of this ungodly age. Afterwards I 
 visited my Lord Chief-Justice of Ireland, 
 with whom I had long and private dis- 
 course concerning the miserable condition 
 that kingdom was like to be in, if Tyr- 
 connel's counsel should prevail at Court. 
 
 2yd. Went with the Countess of 
 Sunderland to Cranborne, a lodge and 
 walk of my Lord Godolphin's in Windsor 
 Park. 3 There was one room in the house 
 spared in the pulling down the old one, 
 because the late Duchess of York was 
 born in it ; the rest was built and added 
 to it by Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of 
 the Navy ; and since, the whole was pur- 
 chased by my Lord Godolphin, who spake 
 to me to go see it, and advise what trees 
 were fit to be cut down to improve the 
 dwelling, being environed with old rotten 
 pollards, which corrupt the air. It stands 
 on a knoll, which though insensibly rising, 
 gives it a prospect over the Keep of 
 Windsor, about three miles N.E. of it. 
 The ground is clayey and moist ; the 
 water stark naught ; the park is pretty ; 
 the house tolerable, and gardens con- 
 venient. After dinner, we came back to 
 London, having two coaches both going 
 and coming, of six horses apiece, which 
 we changed at Hounslow. 
 
 24M. Dr. Warren preached before the 
 Princess at Whitehall, on 5th Matthew, 
 of the blessedness of the pure in heart, 
 most elegantly describing the bliss of 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 264.] 2 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 8 [One of the lodges built by Charles II. on the 
 
 west side of the Park. It was eventually occupied 
 
 by Nash the architect, and is now pulled down. 
 
 In 1800 its tenant was the Duke of Gloucester. 
 
 (See ante, p. 295.)] 
 
394 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1686 
 
 the beatifical vision. In the afternoon, 
 Sir George Wheler, Knight and Baronet, 
 preached on the 4th Matt, upon the neces- 
 sity of repentance, at St. Margaret's, an 
 honest and devout discourse, and pretty 
 tolerably performed. This gentleman 
 coming from his travels out of Greece, fell 
 in love with the daughter of Sir Thomas 
 Higgins, his Majesty's resident at Venice, 
 niece to the Earl of Bath, and married 
 her. When they returned into England, 
 being honoured with knighthood, he would 
 needs turn preacher, and took orders. He 
 published a learned and ingenious book of 
 his travels, and is a very worthy person, a 
 little formal and particular, but exceedingly 
 devout. 1 
 
 2.7th October. There was a triumphant 
 show of the Lord Mayor both by land and 
 water, with much solemnity, when yet his 
 power has been so much diminished, by 
 the loss of the City's former charter. 
 
 $th November. I went to St. Martin's 
 in the morning, where Dr. Birch preached 
 very boldly against the Papists, from John 
 xvi. 2. In the afternoon, I heard Dr. 
 Tillotson 2 in Lincoln's Inn chapel, on the 
 same text, but more cautiously. 
 
 16th. I went with part of my family to 
 pass the melancholy winter in London at 
 my son's house in Arundel Buildings. 
 
 $t/i December. I dined at my Lady 
 Arlington's, Groom of the Stole to the 
 Queen Dowager, at Somerset House, 
 where dined divers French noblemen, 
 driven out of their country by the persecu- 
 tion. 
 
 16M. I carried the Countess of Sunder- 
 land to see the rarities of one Mr. Charlton 
 in the Middle Temple, 3 who showed us 
 such a collection as I had never seen in all 
 my travels abroad, either of private gentle- 
 men, or princes. It consisted of minia- 
 tures, drawings, shells, insects, medals, 
 natural things, animals (of which divers, I 
 think 100, were kept in glasses of spirits 
 of wine), minerals, precious stones, vessels, 
 curiosities in amber, crystals, agate, etc. ; 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 355.] 2 [See ante, p. 263.] 
 
 a [Thoresby in 1695 also visited " the ingenious 
 Mr. Charlton's museum, who showed us a noble 
 collection of Roman coins ; he has very choice of 
 the Emperors, but the vast number of the Family 
 or Consular, was most surprising to me " {Diary, 
 1830, i. 298). He saw the collection again in 
 October.] 
 
 all being very perfect and rare of their 
 kind, especially his books of birds, fish, 
 flowers, and shells, drawn and miniatured 
 to the life. He told us that one book 
 stood him in ^300 ; it was painted by that 
 excellent workman, whom the late Gaston, 
 Duke of Orleans, employed. This gentle- 
 man's whole collection, gathered by him- 
 self, travelling over most parts of Europe, 
 is estimated at ^8000. He appeared to be 
 a modest and obliging person. 1 
 
 29M. I went to hear the music of the 
 Italians in the new chapel, now first 
 opened publicly at "Whitehall for the Popish 
 Service. 2 Nothing can be finer than the 
 magnificent marble work and architecture 
 at the end, where are four statues, repre- 
 senting St. John, St. Peter, St. Paul, and 
 the Church, in white marble, the work of 
 Mr. Gibbons, with all the carving and 
 pillars of exquisite art and great cost. The 
 altar-piece is the Salutation ; the volto in 
 fresco^ the Assumption of the Blessed 
 Virgin, according to their tradition, with 
 our Blessed Saviour, and a world of figures 
 painted by Verrio. The throne where the 
 King and Queen sit is very glorious, in a 
 closet above, just opposite to the altar. 
 Here we saw the Bishop in his mitre and 
 rich copes, with six or seven Jesuits and 
 others in rich copes, sumptuously habited, 
 often taking off and putting on the Bishop's 
 mitre, who sat in a chair with arms ponti- 
 fically, was adored and censed by three 
 Jesuits in their copes ; then he went to 
 the altar and made divers cringes, then 
 censing the images and glorious tabernacle 
 placed on the altar, and now and then 
 changing place : the crosier, which was of 
 silver, was put into his hand with a world 
 of mysterious ceremony, the music playing, 
 with singing. I could not have believed I 
 should ever have seen such things in the 
 King of England's palace, after it had 
 pleased God to enlighten this nation ; but 
 our great sin has, for the present, eclipsed 
 the blessing, which I hope He will in 
 mercy and His good time restore to its 
 purity. 
 
 Little appearance of any winter as 
 yet. 
 
 1 The Charlton collection was afterwards pur- 
 chased by Sir Hans Sloane, and now form s part of the 
 British Museum (see^ost, under 1 6th April, 1691). 
 
 2 [It was burned down in January, 1698 (see 
 post, under 5th January, 1698, and note).] 
 
268 7 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 395 
 
 1686-87: \st January. Mr. Wake 1 
 preached at St. Martin's on 1 Tfrn. iii. 16, 
 concerning the mystery of godliness. He 
 wrote excellently, in answer to the Bishop 
 of Meaux. 
 
 2>rd. A Seal to confirm a gift of ^4000 
 per annum for 99 years to the Lord 
 Treasurer out of the Post-office, and £1700 
 per annum for ever out of Lord Gray's 
 estate. 
 
 There was now another change of the 
 great officers. The Treasury was put into 
 commission, two professed Papists amongst 
 them, viz. Lords Belasyse and Dover, 
 joined with the old ones, Lord Godolphin, 
 Sir Stephen Fox, and Sir John Ernley. 
 
 17 th. Much expectation of several great 
 men declaring themselves Papists. Lord 
 Tyrconnel 2 gone to succeed the Lord- 
 Lieutenant [Clarendon] in Ireland, to the 
 astonishment of all sober men, and to the 
 evident ruin of the Protestants in that 
 kingdom, as well as of its great improve- 
 ment going on. Much discourse that all 
 the White Staff officers and others should 
 be dismissed for adhering to their religion. 
 Popish Justices of the Peace established in 
 all counties, of the meanest of the people ; 
 Judges ignorant of the law, and perverting 
 it — so furiously do the Jesuits drive, and 
 even compel Princes to violent courses, and 
 destruction of an excellent government 
 both in Church and State. God of His 
 infinite mercy open our eyes, and turn our 
 hearts, and establish His truth with peace ! 
 The Lord Jesus defend His little flock, 
 and preserve this threatened church and 
 nation ! 
 
 24/^. I saw the (Jueen's new apart- 
 ment at Whitehall, with her new bed, 
 the embroidery of which cost £3000. The 
 carving about the chimney-piece, by Gib- 
 bons, is incomparable. 
 
 30//2. I heard the famous eunuch, 
 Cifaccio, sing in the new Popish chapel 
 this afternoon ; it was indeed very rare, 
 
 1 William III. recognised the services of William 
 Wake, 1657-1737, in the cause of the Protestant 
 Church of England, by presenting him with valu- 
 able preferments. He was King's Chaplain, 
 Rector of St. James's, Westminster, Dean of 
 Exeter, Bishop of Lincoln, and finally Archbishop 
 of Canterbury. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 391. Tyrconnel's appointment, 
 says Reresby, "made a great many people leave 
 or sell their estates, and come over for England " 
 (Memoirs, 1875, p. 369).] 
 
 and with great skill. He came over from 
 Rome, esteemed one of the best voices in 
 Italy. Much crowding — little devotion. 
 
 27th February. Mr. Chetwynd 1 preached 
 at Whitehall on Rom. i. 18, a very quaint 
 neat discourse of moral righteousness. 
 
 2nd March. Came out a proclamation 
 for universal liberty of conscience in Scot- 
 land, and dispensation from all tests and 
 laws to the contrary, as also capacitating 
 Papists to be chosen into all offices of trust. 
 The mystery operates. 
 
 yd. Dr. Meggot, 2 Dean of Win- 
 chester, preached before the Princess tff 
 Denmark, on Matt. xiv. 23. In the 
 afternoon, I went out of town to meet my 
 Lord Clarendon, returning from Ireland. 
 
 \oth. His Majesty sent for the Com- 
 missioners of the Privy Seal this morning 
 into his bedchamber, and told us that 
 though he had thought fit to dispose of the 
 Seal into a single hand, yet he would so 
 provide for us, as it should appear how 
 well he accepted our faithful and loyal 
 service, with many gracious expressions to 
 this effect ; upon which we delivered the 
 Seal into his hands. It was by all the 
 world both hoped and expected that he 
 would have restored it to my Lord Claren- 
 don ; but they were astonished to see it 
 given to Lord Arundel of Wardour, 3 a 
 zealous Roman Catholic. Indeed it was 
 very hard, and looked very unkindly, his 
 Majesty (as my Lord Clarendon protested 
 to me, on my going to visit him and long 
 discoursing with him about the affairs of 
 Ireland) finding not the least failure of 
 duty in him during his government of 
 that kingdom, so that his recall plainly 
 appeared to be from the stronger influ- 
 ence of the Papists, who now got all the 
 preferments. 
 
 Most of the great officers, both in the 
 court and country, Lords and others, were 
 dismissed, as they would not promise his 
 Majesty their consent to the repeal of the 
 test and penal statutes against Popish 
 recusants. To this end, most of the 
 Parliament - men were spoken to in his 
 Majesty's closet, and such as refused, if in 
 anyplace of office or trust, civil or military, 
 were put out of their employments. This 
 
 1 [John Chetwynd, 1628-92, prebendary of Bristol 
 Cathedral. ] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 245.] 3 [See ante, p. 202.] 
 
396 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1687 
 
 was a time of great trial ; but hardly one 
 of them assented, which put the Popish 
 interest much backward. The English 
 clergy everywhere preached boldly against 
 their superstition and errors, and were 
 wonderfully followed by the people. Not 
 one considerable proselyte was made in all 
 this time. The party were exceedingly 
 put to the worst by the preaching and 
 writing of the Protestants in many excellent 
 treatises, evincing the doctrine and dis- 
 cipline of the reformed religion, to the 
 manifest disadvantage of their adversaries. 
 To this did not a little contribute the 
 sermon preached at Whitehall before the 
 Princess of Denmark and a great crowd of 
 people, and at least thirty of the greatest 
 nobility, by Dr. Ken, Bishop of Bath and 
 Wells, 1 on John viii. 46 (the gospel of the 
 day), describing through his whole dis- 
 course the blasphemies, perfidy, wresting 
 of Scripture, preference of tradition before 
 it, spirit of persecution, superstition, 
 legends and fables of the Scribes and 
 Pharisees, so that all the auditory under- 
 stood his meaning of a parallel between 
 them and the Romish priests, and their 
 new Trent religion. He exhorted his 
 audience to adhere to the written Word, 
 and to persevere in the Faith taught in the 
 Church of England, whose doctrine for 
 Catholic and soundness he preferred to all 
 the communities and churches of Christians 
 in the world ; concluding with a kind of 
 prophecy, that whatever it suffered, it 
 should after a short trial emerge to the 
 confusion of her adversaries and the glory 
 of God. 
 
 I went this evening to see the order of 
 the boys and children at Christ's Hospital. 
 There were near 800 boys and girls so 
 decently clad, cleanly lodged, so whole- 
 somely fed, so admirably taught, some 
 the mathematics, especially the forty of 
 the late King's foundation, that I was 
 
 1 See ante, p. 364. Thomas Ken, 1637-1711, was 
 a prelate remarkable for his benevolence and piety, 
 and the only person in England known to have 
 interceded for the sufferers from the cruelty of 
 Colonel Kirke, on the suppression of Monmouth's' 
 rebellion ; urging the King with tears to put a stop 
 to the dreadful butchery. He was one of the seven 
 bishops sent by James II. to the Tower; yet he 
 refused to acknowledge James's successor, on the 
 ground that it would be a breach of his Consecra- 
 tion Oath, and he suffered for his conscientious 
 scruples the penalty of deprivation. 
 
 delighted to see the progress some little 
 youths of thirteen or fourteen years of age 
 had made. I saw them at supper, visited 
 their dormitories, and much admired the 
 order, economy, and excellent government 
 of this most charitable seminary. Some 
 are taught for the Universities, others de- 
 signed for seamen, all for trades and 
 callings. The girls are instructed in all 
 such work as becomes their sex and may 
 fit them for good wives, mistresses, and to 
 be a blessing to their generation. They 
 sung a psalm before they sat down to 
 supper in the great Hall, to an organ which 
 played all the time, with such cheerful 
 harmony, that it seemed to me a vision of 
 angels. I came from the place with in- 
 finite satisfaction, having never seen* a 
 more noble, pious, and admirable charity. 
 All these consisted of orphans only. The 
 foundation was of that pious Prince King 
 Edward VI. , whose picture (held to be an 
 original of Holbein) is in the court where 
 the Governors meet to consult on the 
 affairs of the Hospital, and his statue in 
 white marble stands in a niche of the wall 
 below, as you go to the church, which is a 
 modern, noble, and ample fabric. This 
 foundation has had, and still has, many 
 benefactors. 
 
 16th March. I saw a trial of those 
 devilish, murdering, mischief-doing engines 
 called bombs, shot out of the mortar-piece 
 on Blackheath. The distance that they 
 are cast, the destruction they make where I 
 they fall, is prodigious. 
 
 2.0th. The Bishop of Bath and Wells 
 (Dr. Ken) preached at St. Martin's to a 
 crowd of people not to be expressed, nor 
 the wonderful eloquence of this admirable 
 preacher; the text was Matt. xxvi. 36 to 
 verse 40, describing the bitterness of our 
 Blessed Saviour's agony, the ardour of his 
 love, the infinite obligations we have to 
 imitate his patience and resignation; the 
 means by watching against temptations, 
 and over ourselves with fervent prayer to 
 attain it, and the exceeding reward in the 
 end. Upon all which he made most 
 pathetical discourses. The Communion 
 followed, at which I was participant. I 
 afterwards dined at Dr. Tenison's with the 
 Bishop and that young, most learned, 
 pious, and excellent preacher, Mr. Wake. 1 . 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 395.] 
 
i68 7 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 397 
 
 In the afternoon, I went to hear Mr. Wake 
 at the new-built church of St. Anne, 1 on 
 Mark viii. 34, upon the subject of taking 
 up the cross, and strenuously behaving our- 
 selves in time of persecution, as this now 
 threatened to be. 
 
 His Majesty again prorogued the Parlia- 
 ment, foreseeing that it would not remit 
 the laws against Papists, by the extra- 
 ordinary zeal and bravery of its members, 
 and the free renunciation of the great 
 officers both in court and state, who would 
 not be prevailed with for any # temporal 
 concern. 
 
 25//Z March. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison 
 preached at St. Martin's on 1 Peter ii. 24. 
 During the service a man came into near 
 the middle of the church, with his sword 
 drawn, with several others in that posture ; 
 in this jealous time it put the congregation 
 into great confusion ; but it appeared to be 
 one who fled for sanctuary, being pursued 
 by bailiffs. 
 
 %th April. I had^ a re-hearing of my 
 great cause 2 at the Chancery in West- 
 minster Hall, having seven of the most 
 learned Counsel, my adversary five, among 
 which were the Attorney-General and late 
 Solicitor Finch, son to the Lord Chan- 
 cellor Nottingham. The account was at 
 last brought to one article of the surcharge, 
 and referred to a Master. The cause 
 lasted two hours and more. 
 
 loth. In the last week, there was issued 
 a Dispensation from all obligations and 
 tests, by which Dissenters and Papists 
 especially had public liberty of exercising 
 their several ways of worship, without in- 
 curring the penalty of the many Laws and 
 Acts of Parliament to the contrary. 3 This 
 was purely obtained by the Papists, think- 
 ing thereby to ruin the Church of England, 
 being now the only Church which so 
 admirably and strenuously opposed their 
 superstition. There was a wonderful con- 
 course of people at the Dissenters' meeting- 
 house in this parish, and the parish-church 
 [Deptford] left exceeding thin. What 
 this will end in, God Almighty only 
 
 1 [St. Anne-in-the-Willows, Aldersgate, rebuilt 
 
 after the fire by Wren.] 
 
 '- [See ante, p. 388 ; zm&post, p. 398.] 
 
 3 [April 4. "The moderate nonconformists 
 
 suspected the king's intentions, and sent no 
 
 messages of thanks " {Annals of England, 1876, 
 
 p. 488 «.).] 
 
 knows ; but it looks like confusion, which 
 I pray God avert. 
 
 Will. To London about my suit, some 
 terms of accommodation being proposed. 
 
 19M. I heard the famous singer, 
 Cifaccio, esteemed the best in Europe. 
 Indeed, his holding out and delicateness 
 in extending and loosing a note with in- 
 comparable softness and sweetness, was 
 admirable ; for the rest I found him a mere 
 wanton, effeminate child, very coy, and 
 proudly conceited, to my apprehension, 
 lie touched the harpsichord to his voice 
 rarely well. This was before a select 
 number of particular persons whom Mr. 
 Pepys invited to his house ; and this was 
 obtained by particular favour and much 
 difficulty, the Signor much disdaining to 
 show his talent to any but princes. 
 
 24///. At Greenwich, at the conclusion 
 of the Church-service, there was a French 
 sermon preached after the use of the Eng- 
 lish Liturgy translated into French, to a 
 congregation of about 100 French refugees, 
 of whom Monsieur Ruvigny was the chief, 
 and had obtained the use of the church, 
 after the parish-service was ended. The 
 preacher pathetically exhorted to patience, 
 constancy, and reliance on God amidst all 
 their sufferings, and the infinite rewards to 
 come. 
 
 2nd May. I dined with Mynheer Disk- 
 velts, the Holland Ambassador, a prudent 
 and worthy person. There dined Lord 
 Middleton, principal Secretary of State,. 
 Lord Pembroke, Lord Lumley, Lord 
 Preston, 1 Colonel Fitzpatrick, and Sir 
 John Chardin. After dinner, the Am- 
 bassador discoursed of and deplored the 
 stupid folly of our politics, in suffering the 
 French to take Luxembourg, 2 it being a 
 place of the most concern to have been 
 defended, for the interest not only of the 
 Netherlands, but of England. 
 
 12I/1. To London. Lord Sunderland 
 being Lord President and Secretary of 
 State, was made Knight of the Garter and 
 prime favourite. — This day there was such 
 a storm of wind as had seldom happened, 
 being a sort of hurricane. It kept the 
 flood out of the Thames, so that people 
 
 1 [Richard Graham, Viscount Preston,! 1648-95 
 (see post, under 30th October, 1688).] 
 
 2 [Luxembourg was taken in 1684. It was 
 restored to Spain at the Peace of Ryswyk.] 
 
398 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1687 
 
 went on foot over seveial places above 
 bridge. Also an earthquake in several 
 places in England about the time of the 
 storm. 
 
 26th May. To London, about my agree- 
 ment with Mr. Pretyman, 1 after my tedious 
 suit. 
 
 2nd June. I went to London, it having 
 pleased his Majesty to grant me a Privy 
 Seal for ^6000, for discharge of the debt 
 I had been so many years persecuted for, 
 it being indeed for money drawn over by 
 my father-in-law, Sir R. Browne, during 
 his residence in the Court of France, and 
 so with a much greater sum due to Sir 
 Richard from his Majesty ; and now this 
 part of the arrear being paid, there remains 
 yet due to me, as executor of Sir Richard, 
 above ,£6500 more; but this determining 
 an expensive Chancery suit has been so 
 great a mercy and providence to me 
 (through the kindness and friendship to 
 me of Lord Godolphin, one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Treasury), that I do 
 acknowledge it with all imaginable thanks 
 to my gracious God. 2 
 
 6th. I visited my Lady Pierrepont, 
 daughter to Sir John Evelyn of Deane [in 
 Wilts], now widow of Mr. Pierrepont, 
 and mother of the Earl of Kingston. She 
 was now engaged in the marriage of my 
 cousin, Evelyn Pierrepont, her second son. 3 
 
 There was about this time brought into 
 the Downs a vast treasure, which was sunk 
 in. a Spanish galleon about forty-five years 
 ago, somewhere near Hispaniola, or the 
 Bahama Islands, and was now weighed up 
 by some gentlemen, who were at the charge 
 of divers, etc., to the enriching them 
 beyond all expectation. The Duke of 
 Albemarle's share [Governor of Jamaica] 
 came to, I believe, ^50,000. 4 Some 
 private gentlemen who adventured ;£ioo 
 gained from ^8000 to ;£ 10,000. His 
 Majesty's tenth was ^10,000. 
 
 The Camp was now again pitched at 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 391.] 2 [See ante, p. 397.] 
 
 3 This Evelyn Pierrepont was married in the 
 rsame month lo Lady Mary Fielding. The issue 
 of the marriage was the celebrated Lady Mary 
 Wortley Montagu. 
 
 4 The Duke's share amounted to considerably 
 more ; not less, it was said, than ,£90,000. A medal 
 was struck on this occasion, which is engraved in 
 Evelyn's book ou that .subject, No. lxxxvii. 
 p. 151. 
 
 Hounslow, the Commanders profusely 
 vying in the expense and magnificence of 
 tents. 1 
 
 12th. Our Vicar preached on 2 Peter 
 ii. 21, upon the danger of relapsing 
 into sin. After this, I went and heard 
 M. Lamot, an eloquent French preacher 
 at Greenwich, on Prov. xxx. 8, 9, a con- 
 solatory discourse to the poor and religious 
 refugees who escaped out of France in the 
 cruel persecution. 
 
 16th. I went to Hampton Court to give 
 his Majesiy thanks for his late gracious 
 favour, though it was but granting what 
 was due. Whilst I was in the Council- 
 Chamber, came in some persons, at the 
 head of whom was a formal man with a 
 large roll of parchment in his hand, being 
 an Address (as he said, for he introduced 
 it with a speech) of the people of Coventry, 
 giving his Majesty their great acknowledg- 
 ments for his granting a liberty of con- 
 science ; he added that this was not the 
 application of one party only, but the 
 unanimous address of Church of England 
 men, Presbyterians, Independents, and 
 Anabaptists, to show how extensive his 
 Majesty's grace was, as taking in all parties 
 to his indulgence and protection, which had 
 removed all dissensions and animosities, 
 which would not only unite them in bonds 
 of Christian charity, but exceedingly en- 
 courage their future industry, to the 
 improvement of trade, and spreading his 
 Majesty's glory throughout the world ; and 
 that now he had given to God his empire, 
 God would establish his ; with expressions 
 of great loyalty and submission ; and so he 
 gave the roll to the King, which being 
 returned to him again, his Majesty caused 
 him to read. The address was short, but 
 much to the substance of the speech of 
 their foreman, to whom the King, pulling 
 off his hat, said that what he had done in 
 giving liberty of conscience, was, what was 
 ever his judgment ought to be done ; and 
 that, as he would preserve them in their 
 enjoyment of it during his reign, so 
 he would endeavour to settle it by law, 
 that it should never be altered by his 
 successors. After this, he gave them his 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 391. The result was disappoint- 
 ing to King James, for the Londoners mixed freely 
 with the soldiery and made them as discontented 
 as themselves.] 
 
i68 7 ] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 399 
 
 hand to kiss. It was reported the sub- 
 scribers were above iooo. 
 
 But this is not so remarkable as an 
 Address of the week before (as I was 
 assured by one present), of some of the 
 Family of Love. 1 His Majesty asked them 
 what this worship consisted in, and how 
 many their party might consist of; they 
 told him their custom was to read the 
 Scripture, and then to preach ; but did not 
 give any further account, only said that for 
 the rest they were a sort of refined Quakers, 
 but their number very small, not consisting, 
 as they said, of above three score in all, 
 and those chiefly belonging to the Isle of 
 Ely. 2 
 
 iSthJune. I dined at Mr. Blathwayt's 3 
 (two miles from Hampton). This gentleman 
 is Secretary of War, Clerk of the Council, 
 etc., having raised himself by his industry 
 from very moderate circumstances. He is 
 a very proper, handsome person, very 
 dexterous in business, and, besides all this, 
 has married a great fortune. His income 
 by the Army, Council, and Secretary to 
 the Committee of Foreign Plantations, 
 brings him in above ^"2000 per annum. 
 
 2$rd. The Privy Seal for ^6000 4 was 
 passed to me, so that this tedious affair was 
 dispatched. — Hitherto, a very windy and 
 tempestuous summer. — The French ser- 
 mons to the refugees were continued at 
 Greenwich Church. 
 
 \qthjuly. I went to Wotton. In the 
 way, I dined at Ashtead, with my Lady 
 Mordaunt. 5 
 
 5M August. I went to see Albury, 6 
 now purchased by Mr. Finch (the King's 
 Solicitor, 7 and son to the late Lord 
 Chancellor) ; I found the garden which I 
 first designed for the Duke of Norfolk, 
 nothing improved. 
 
 i$th. I went to visit Lord Clarendon 
 at Swallowfield, where was my Lord Corn- 
 
 1 [The Family of Love, or Familia Caritatis, 
 were an offshoot of the Dutch Anabaptists. 'ITieir 
 founder was a Westphalian named Hen rick Niclaes 
 (jf. 1502-80). They interpreted Scripture mysti- 
 cally, denying the Resurrection, Christ's person, 
 etc j and preaching the love of humanity. By the 
 beginning of the eighteenth century they had 
 become extremely rare.] 
 
 2 [Cambridgeshire Fens, now drained.] 
 
 3 [William Blathwayt, 1649-1717 ; Secretary at 
 War, 1683- 1 704.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 398.] 5 [See ante, p. 303.] 
 6 [See ante, p. 259.] 7 [See ante, p. 388.] 
 
 bury 1 just arrived from Denmark, whither 
 he had accompanied the Prince of Denmark 
 two months before, and now come back. 
 The miserable tyranny under which that 
 nation lives, he related to us ; the King 
 keeps them under an army of 40,000 men, 
 all Germans,- he not daring to trust his 
 own subjects. Notwithstanding this, the 
 Danes are exceeding proud, the country 
 very poor and miserable. 
 
 22nd. Returned home to Sayes Court 
 from Wotton, having been five weeks 
 absent with my brother and friends, who 
 entertained us very nobly. God be praised 
 for His goodness, and this refreshment 
 after my many troubles, and let His mercy 
 and providence ever preserve me. Amen. 
 
 yd September. The Lord Mayor sent 
 me an Officer with a staff, to be one of 
 the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 Persecution raging in France; divers 
 churches there fired by lightning, priests 
 struck, consecrated hosts, etc., burnt and 
 destroyed, both at St. Malo and Paris, 
 at the grand procession on Corpus Christi 
 day. 
 
 13M. I went to Lambeth, and dined 
 with the Archbishop. After dinner, I 
 retired into the library, which I found 
 exceedingly improved ; there are also divers 
 rare manuscripts in a room apart. 
 
 6th October. I was godfather to Sir 
 John Chardin's 8 son, christened at Green- 
 wich Church, named John. The Earl of 
 Bath and Countess of Carlisle, the other 
 sponsors. 
 
 29M. An Anabaptist, a very odd ignorant 
 person, a mechanic, I think, was Lord 
 Mayor. 3 The King and Queen, and 
 D' Adda, 4 the Pope's Nuncio, invited to a 
 feast at Guildhall. A strange turn of affairs, 
 that those who scandalised the Church of 
 England as favourers of Popery, should 
 publicly invite an emissary from Rome, 
 one who represented the very person of 
 their Antichrist ! 
 
 10th December. My son was returned 
 out of Devon, where he had been on a 
 commission from the Lords of the Treasury 
 about a concealment of land. 
 
 20th. I went with my Lord Chief- 
 Justice Herbert, to see his house at Walton- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 384.] 2 [See ante, p. 327.] 
 
 3 Sir John Peake. 
 
 4 Count D' Adda. See ante, p. 387. 
 
400 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1688 
 
 on-Thames : 1 it is a barren place. To a 
 very ordinary house he had built a very 
 handsome library, designing more building 
 to it than the place deserves, in my opinion. 
 He desired my advice about laying out his 
 gardens, etc. The next day we went to 
 Weybridge, to see some pictures of the 
 Duchess of Norfolk's,' 2 particularly the 
 statue, or child in gremio, said to be of 
 Michael Angelo ; but there are reasons to 
 think it rather a copy, from some pro- 
 portion in the figures ill taken. It was 
 now exposed to sale. 
 
 1687-8 : 12th January. Mr. Slingsby, 
 Master of the Mint, being under very 
 deplorable circumstances on account of his 
 creditors, and especially the King, I did 
 my endeavour with the Lords of the 
 Treasury to be favourable to him. 
 
 My Lord Arran, 3 eldest son to the Duke 
 of Hamilton, being now married to Lady 
 Ann Spencer, eldest daughter of the Earl 
 of Sunderland, Lord President of the 
 Council, I and my family had most glorious 
 favours sent us, the wedding being cele- 
 brated with extraordinary splendour. 
 
 1 ^th. There was a solemn and particular 
 office used at our, and all the churches of 
 London and ten miles round, for a thanks- 
 giving to God, for her Majesty being with 
 child. 
 
 22nd. This afternoon I went not to 
 church, being employed on a religious 
 treatise I had undertaken. 4 
 
 1 This is a mistake ; the house was Oatlands in 
 Weybridge, an old royal palace. Sir Edward 
 Herbert (see ante, p. 391) followed the fortunes of 
 King James, who gave him his Great Seal. He 
 was attainted ; and Oatlands given to his brother, 
 Admiral Herbert (see^ost, under 26th April, 1689). 
 Sir Ed ward published an apology for the judgment he 
 had given in favour of the King's dispensing powers, 
 which was answered by Mr. William Atwood and 
 Sir Robert Atkins. (Manning and Bray's Surrey, 
 ii. 786.) [Henrietta Maria had lived at Oatlands 
 previous to Sir Edward Herbert. It was inhabited 
 later by the seventh Earl of Lincoln, who rebuilt 
 it early in the eighteenth century. This second 
 structure was burnt in 1794, and a third took its 
 place. The site is now occupied by the Oatlands 
 Park Hotel. An interesting little monograph on 
 Oatlands was issued in 1907 by Mr. S. W. Ker- 
 shaw, F.S.A., the librarian of Lambeth Palace.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 313.] 3 [See ante, p. 343.] 
 4 What this was does not appear ; but there are 
 
 several of Evelyn's compositions remaining in MS. 
 [It may have been the posthumous History of 
 Religion: A Rational Account 0/ the True 
 Religion, 2 vols., edited with notes, by the Rev. 
 R. M. Evanson, in 1850.] 
 
 Post annum 1588 — 1660 — 1688, Annus 
 Mirabilis Tertius. 1 
 
 ipth. Being the Martyrdom-day of King 
 Charles the First, our curate made a florid 
 oration against the murder of that excellent 
 Prince, with an exhortation to obedience 
 from the example of David, 1 Samuel 
 xxvi. 6. 
 
 1 2th February. My daughter Evelyn - 
 going in the coach to visit in the city, a 
 jolt (the door being not fast shut) flung her 
 quite out in such manner, as the hind 
 wheels passed over her a little above her 
 knees. Yet it pleased God, besides the 
 bruises of the wheels she had no other 
 harm. In two days, she was able to walk, 
 and soon after perfectly well ; through God 
 Almighty's great mercy to an excellent wife 
 and a most dutiful and discreet daughter- 
 in-law. 
 
 ijlh. I received the sad news of my 
 niece Montagu's death at Woodcote 3 on 
 the 15th. 
 
 1 $l/i March. I gave in my account about 
 the Sick and Wounded, in order to have 
 my quietus. 
 
 2-$rd. Dr. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, 4 
 who so lately published his extravagant 
 treatise about transubstantiation, and for 
 abrogating the Test and Penal Laws, died. 
 He was esteemed a violent, passionate, 
 haughty man, but yet being pressed to 
 declare for the Church of Rome, he utterly 
 refused it. A remarkable end ! 
 
 The French Tyrant now finding he could 
 make no proselytes amongst those Protest- 
 ants of quality, and others, whom he had 
 caused to be shut up in dungeons, and 
 confined in nunneries and monasteries, gave 
 them, after so long trial, a general release- 
 ment, and leave to go out of the kingdom, 
 but utterly taking their estates and their 
 children ; so that great numbers came daily 
 into England and other places, where they 
 were received and relieved with very con- 
 siderate Christian charity. This Providence 
 and goodness of God to those who thus 
 
 1 This seems to have been added after the page 
 was written. 
 
 2 [Martha Evelyn, wife of Evelyn's son, John 
 (see ante, p. 324).] 
 
 3 [Mary Evelyn of Woodcote (see ante, p. 270).] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 392. Dr. Parker died of a con- 
 vulsive fit caused by the King's Mandate to admit 
 further Catholic fellows to Magdalen College, of 
 which he was President, 1687-88.] 
 
1688] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 401 
 
 constantly held out, did so work upon 
 those miserable poor souls who to avoid 
 the persecution signed their renunciation, 
 and to save their estates went to mass, 
 that reflecting on what they had done, they 
 grew so affected in their conscience, that 
 not being able to support it, they in great 
 numbers through all the French provinces, 
 acquainted the magistrates and lieutenants 
 that being sorry for their apostasy, they 
 were resolved to return to their old religion ; 
 that they would go no more to mass, but 
 peaceably assemble when they could, to 
 beg pardon and worship God, but so with- 
 out weapons as not to give the least umbrage 
 of rebellion or sedition, imploring their pity 
 and commiseration ; and, accordingly, 
 meeting so from time to time, the dragoon- 
 missioners, Popish officers and priests, fell 
 upon them, murdered and put them to 
 death, whoever they could lay hold on ; 
 they without the least resistance embraced 
 death, torture, or hanging, with singing 
 psalms and praying for their persecutors to 
 the last breath, yet still continuing the 
 former assembling of themselves in desolate 
 places, suffering with incredible constancy, 
 that through God's mercy they might obtain 
 pardon for this lapse. Such examples of 
 Christian behaviour have not been seen 
 since the primitive persecutions ; and doubt- 
 less God will do some signal work in the 
 end, if we can with patience and resignation 
 hold out, and depend on His Providence. 
 
 24/^ March. I went with Sir Charles 
 Littleton to Sheen, 1 a house and estate given 
 him by Lord Brouncker ; one who was ever 
 noted for a hard, covetous, vicious man ; 
 but for his worldly craft and skill in 
 gaming few exceeded him. Coming to 
 die, he bequeathed all his land, house, 
 furniture, etc., to Sir Charles, to whom he 
 had no manner of relation, but an ancient 
 friendship contracted at the famous siege 
 of Colchester, forty years before. It is a 
 pretty place, with fine gardens, and well- 
 planted, and given to one worthy of them, 
 Sir Charles being an honest gentleman 
 and soldier. He is brother to Sir Henry 
 Littleton of Worcestershire, whose great 
 estate he is likely to inherit, his brother 
 being without children. They are de- 
 scendants of the great lawyer of that name, 
 and give the same arms and motto. He 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 313.] 
 
 is married to one Mrs. Temple, 1 formerly 
 Maid of Honour to the late Queen, a 
 beautiful lady, and he has many fine 
 children, so that none envy his good 
 fortune. 
 
 After dinner, we went to see Sir William 
 Temple's near to it ; 2 the most remarkable 
 things are his orangery and gardens, where 
 the wall-fruit trees are most exquisitely 
 nailed and trained, far belter than I ever 
 noted. 
 
 There are many good pictures, especially 
 of Vandyck's, in both these houses, and 
 some few statues and small busts in the 
 latter. 
 
 From thence to Kew, to visit Sir Henry 
 Capel's, 3 whose orangery and myrtetum 
 are most beautiful and perfectly well kept. 
 He was contriving very high palisadoes of 
 reeds to shade his oranges during the 
 summer, and painting those reeds in oil. 
 
 1st April. In the morning, the first 
 sermon was by Dr. Stillingfleet, 4 Dean of 
 St. Paul's (at Whitehall), on Luke x. 41, 
 42. The Holy Communion followed, but 
 was so interrupted by the rude breaking in 
 of multitudes zealous to hear the second 
 sermon, to be preached by the Bishop of 
 Bath and Wells, 5 that the latter part of 
 that holy office could hardly be heard, or 
 the sacred elements be distributed without 
 great trouble. The Princess being come, 
 he preached on Micah vii. 8, 9, 10, de- 
 scribing the calamity of the reformed church 
 of Judah under the Babylonian persecution, 
 for her sins, and God's delivery of her on 
 her repentance ; that as Judah emerged, so 
 should the now Reformed Church, when- 
 ever insulted or persecuted. He preached 
 with his accustomed action, zeal, and 
 energy, so that people flocked from all^ 
 quarters to hear him. \s 
 
 i$th. A dry, cold, backward spring; 
 easterly winds. 
 
 The persecution still raging in France, 
 multitudes of Protestants, and many very 
 considerable and great persons flying hither, 
 produced a second general contribution, 
 the Papists, by God's Providence, as yet 
 making small progress amongst us. 
 
 1 [This is the Miss Temple of Grammont's 
 Memoirs. ,] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 313.] 3 [See ante, p. 314.] 
 
 4 [Dr. Edward Stillingfleet, 1635-99 ; Dean of 
 St. Paul's, 1678.] 5 [See ante, p. 364.] 
 
402 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1688 
 
 29th April. The weather was, till now, 
 so cold and sharp, by an almost perpetual 
 east wind, which had continued many 
 months, that there was little appearance of 
 any spring, and yet the winter was very 
 favourable as to frost and snow. 
 
 2nd May. To London, about my 
 petition for allowances upon the account 
 of Commissioner for Sick and Wounded 
 in the former war with Holland. 1 
 
 %th. His Majesty, alarmed by the great 
 fleet of the Dutch (whilst we had a very 
 inconsiderable one), went down to Chat- 
 ham ; their fleet was well prepared, and 
 out, before we were in readiness, or had 
 any considerable number to have en- 
 countered them, had there been occasion, 
 to the great reproach of the nation ; whilst, 
 being in profound peace, there was a 
 mighty land-army, which there was no 
 need of, and no force at sea, where only 
 was the apprehension ; but the army was 
 ■doubtless kept and increased, in order to 
 bring in and countenance Popery, the King 
 beginning to discover his intention, by 
 many instances pursued by the Jesuits, 
 against his first resolution to alter nothing 
 in the Church-Establishment, so that it 
 appeared there can be no reliance on Popish 
 promises. 
 
 i8//z. The King enjoining the ministers 
 to read his Declaration for giving liberty 
 of conscience (as it was styled) in all the 
 churches of England, this evening, six 
 Bishops, Bath and Wells, 2 Peterborough, 3 
 Ely, 4 Chichester, 5 St. Asaph, fi and Bristol, 7 
 in the name of all the rest of the Bishops, 
 came to his Majesty to petition him, that 
 he would not impose the reading of it to 
 the several congregations within their 
 dioceses ; not that they were averse to the 
 publishing it for want of due tenderness 
 towards Dissenters, in relation to whom 
 they should be willing to come to such a 
 temper as should be thought fit, when that 
 matter might be considered and settled in 
 Parliament and Convocation ; but that, 
 the declaration being founded on such a 
 dispensing power as might at pleasure set 
 aside all laws ecclesiastical and civil, it 
 appeared to them illegal, as it had done to 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 233.] 2 Thomas Ken. 
 
 3 Thomas White. 4 Francis Turner. 
 
 5 John Lake. 6 William Lloyd. 
 
 7 Sir Jonathan Trelawny, Bart. 
 
 the Parliament in 1661 and 1672, and that 
 it was a point of such consequence, that 
 they could not so far make tjiem selves 
 parties to it, as the reading of it in church 
 in time of Divine Service amounted to. 
 
 The King was so far incensed at this 
 address, that he with threatening expres- 
 sions commanded them to obey him in 
 reading it at their perils, and so dismissed 
 them. 
 
 20M. I went to Whitehall Chapel, where, 
 after the morning Lessons, the Declaration 
 was read by one of the Choir who used to 
 read the Chapters. I hear it was in the 
 Abbey Church, Westminster, but almost 
 universally forborne throughout all London : 
 the consequences of which a little time will 
 show. 
 
 25///. All the discourse now was about 
 the Bishops refusing to read the injunction 
 for the abolition of the Test, etc. It seems 
 the injunction came so crudely from the 
 Secretary's office, that it was neither sealed 
 nor signed in form, nor had any lawyer 
 been consulted, so as the Bishops, who 
 took all imaginable advice, put the Court 
 to great difficulties how to proceed against 
 them. Great were the consults, and a 
 proclamation was expected all this day; 
 but nothing was done. The action of the 
 Bishops was universally applauded, and 
 reconciled many adverse parties, Papists 
 only excepted, who were now exceedingly 
 perplexed, and violent courses were every 
 moment expected. Report was, that the 
 Protestant secular Lords and Nobility 
 would abet the Clergy. 
 
 The Queen-Dowager, hitherto bent on 
 her return into Portugal, now on the sudden, 
 on allegation of a great debt owing her by 
 his Majesty disabling her, declares her 
 resolution to stay. 
 
 News arrived of the most prodigious 
 earthquake that was almost ever heard of, 
 subverting the city of Lima and country in 
 Peru, with a dreadful inundation follow- 
 ing it. 
 
 %thjune. This day, the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, with the Bishops of Ely, 
 Chichester, St. Asaph, Bristol, Peter- 
 borough, and Bath and Wells, were sent 
 from the Privy Council prisoners to the 
 Tower, for refusing to give bail for their 
 appearance, on their not reading the Dec- 
 laration for liberty of conscience ; they 
 
1 688] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 403 
 
 refused to give bail, as it would have 
 prejudiced their peerage. The concern of 
 the people for them was wonderful, infinite 
 crowds on their knees begging their bless- 
 ing, and praying for them, as they passed 
 out of the barge along the Tower- wharf. 
 
 I ot/i June. A young Prince born, 1 which 
 will cause disputes. 
 
 About two o'clock, we heard the Tower- 
 ordnance discharged, and the bells rang for 
 the birth of a Prince of Wales. This was 
 very surprising, it having been universally 
 given out that her Majesty did not look 
 till the next month. 
 
 13M. I went to the Tower to see the 
 Bishops, visited the Archbishop and 
 Bishops of Ely, St. Asaph, and Bath and 
 Wells. 
 
 14th. Dined with my Lord Chancellor. 
 
 i$th. Being the first day of Term, the 
 Bishops were brought to Westminster on 
 Habeas Corpus, when the indictment was 
 read, and they were called on to plead ; 
 their Counsel objected that the warrant 
 was illegal ; but, after long debate, it was 
 overruled, and they pleaded. The Court 
 then offered to take bail for their appear- 
 ance ; but this they refused, and at last 
 were dismissed on their own recognisances 
 to appear that day fortnight ; the Arch- 
 bishop in ;£200, the Bishops ^"ioo each. 
 
 17/i. Was a day of thanksgiving in 
 London and ten miles about for the young 
 Prince's birth ; a form of prayer made for 
 the purpose by the Bishop of Rochester. 
 
 29M. They appeared ; the trial lasted 
 from nine in the morning to past six in 
 the evening, when the Jury retired to 
 consider of their verdict, and the Court 
 adjourned to nine the next morning. The 
 Jury were locked up till that time, eleven 
 of them being for an acquittal ; but one 
 (Arnold, a brewer) would not consent. 
 At length he agreed with the others. The 
 Chief-Justice, Wright, behaved with great 
 moderation and civility to the Bishops. 
 Allibone, 2 a Papist, was strongly against 
 them ; but Holloway 3 and Powell 4 being 
 of opinion in their favour, they were 
 acquitted. When this was heard, there 
 
 1 [James Francis Edward Stuart, 1688 - 1766, 
 afterwards known as the Chevalier de St. George, 
 or the "Old Pretender."] 
 
 2 [Sir Richard Allibone, or Allibond, 1636-88.] 
 
 3 [Sir Richard Holloway, d. 1695]. 
 
 4 [Sir John Powell, 1633-96.] 
 
 was great rejoicing ; and there was a lane 
 of people from the King's Bench to the 
 waterside, on their knees, as the Bishops 
 passed and repassed, to beg their blessing. 
 Bonfires were made that night, and bells 
 rung, which was taken very ill at Court, 
 and an appearance of nearly sixty Earls 
 and Lords, etc., on the bench, did not a 
 little comfort them ; but indeed they were 
 all along full of comfort and cheerful. 
 
 Note, they denied to pay the Lieutenant 
 of the Tower (Hales, who used them very 
 surlily) any fees, alleging that none were 
 due. 
 
 The night was solemnised with bonfires, 
 and other fireworks, etc. 
 
 2.7idjtily. The two judges, Holloway 
 and Powell, were displaced. 
 
 yd. I went with Dr. Godolphin and 
 his brother Sir William to St. Albans, to 
 see a library he would have bought of the 
 widow of Dr. Cartwright, late Archdeacon 
 of St. Albans, a very good collection of 
 books, especially of divinity ; he was to 
 give ^300 for them. Having seen the 
 great Church, now newly repaired by a 
 public contribution, we returned home. 
 
 8th. One of the King's chaplains 
 preached before the Princess on Exodus 
 xiv. 13, "Stand still, and behold the 
 salvation of the Lord," which he applied 
 so boldly to the present conjuncture of the 
 Church of England, that more could scarce 
 be said to encourage desponders. The 
 Popish priests were not able to carry' 
 their cause against their learned adver- 
 saries, who confounded them both by their 
 disputes and writings. 
 
 12th. The camp now began at Houns- 
 low ; v but the nation was in high dis- 
 content. 
 
 Colonel Titus, Sir Henry Vane (son of 
 him who was executed for his treason), 1 
 and some other of the Presbyterians and 
 Independent party, were sworn of the 
 Privy Council, from hopes of thereby 
 diverting that party from going over to. 
 the Bishops and Church of England, which 
 now they began to do, foreseeing the 
 design of the Papists to descend and take 
 in their most hateful of heretics (as they at 
 other times expressed them to be) to effect 
 their own ends, now evident ; the utter 
 
 1 [I.e. Sir Harry Vane, 1613-62. See ante, 
 p. 192.] 
 
404 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1688 
 
 extirpation of the Church of England first, 
 and then the rest would follow. 
 
 1 7th July. This night the fireworks were 
 played off, that had been prepared for the 
 Queen's upsitting. We saw them to great 
 advantage ; they were very fine, and cost 
 some thousands of pounds, in the pyramids, 
 statues, etc. ; but were spent too soon for 
 so long a preparation. 
 
 261/1. I went to Lambeth to visit the 
 Archbishop, 1 whom I found very cheerful. 
 
 10M August. Dr. Tenison now told me 
 there would suddenly be some great thing 
 discovered. This was the Prince of Orange 
 intending to come over. 
 
 15M. I went to Althorp, 2 in North- 
 amptonshire, seventy miles. A coach and 
 four horses took up me and my son at 
 Whitehall, and carried us to Dunstable, 
 where we arrived and dined at noon, and 
 from thence another coach and six horses 
 carried us to Althorp, four miles beyond 
 Northampton, where we arrived by seven 
 o'clock that evening. Both these coaches 
 were hired for me by that noble Countess 
 of Sunderland, who invited me to her 
 house at Althorp, where she entertained 
 me and my son with very extraordinary 
 kindness ; I stayed till the Thursday. 
 
 1 8t/i. Dr. Jeffryes, the minister of 
 Althorp, who was my Lord's Chaplain 
 when ambassador in France, preached the 
 shortest discourse I ever heard ; but what 
 was defective in the amplitude of his 
 sermon, he had supplied in the largeness 
 and convenience of the parsonage-house, 
 which the Doctor (who had at least £600 
 a year in spiritual advancement) had new 
 built, and made fit for a person of quality 
 to live in, with gardens and all accom- 
 modation according therewith. 
 
 My lady carried us to see Lord North- 
 ampton's 3 seat, a very strong large house, 
 built with stone, not altogether modern. 
 They were enlarging the garden, in which 
 was nothing extraordinary, except the iron 
 gate opening into the park, which indeed 
 was very good work, wrought in flowers 
 painted with blue and gilded. There is 
 a noble walk of elms towards the front of 
 the house by the bowling-green. I was 
 not in any room of the house besides a 
 
 1 [Sancroft.] 
 
 - See a former visit to this place, p. 301. 
 
 3 [George, fourth Earl, d. 1727.] 
 
 lobby looking into the garden, where my 
 Lord and his new Countess (Sir Stephen 
 Fox's daughter, whom I had known from 
 a child) entertained the Countess and her 
 daughter the Countess of Arran (newly 
 married to the son of the Duke of Hamil- 
 ton), 1 with so little good grace, and so 
 dully, that our visit was very short, and 
 so we returned to Althorp, twelve miles 
 distant. 
 
 The house, or rather palace, at Althorp, 
 is a noble uniform pile in form of a half 
 H, built of brick and freestone, balustered 
 and a la moderne ; the hall is well, the 
 staircase excellent ; the rooms of state, 
 galleries, offices and furniture, such as 
 may become a great prince. It is situate 
 in the midst of a garden, exquisitely 
 planted and kept, and all this in a park 
 walled in with hewn stone, planted with 
 rows and walks of trees, canals and fish- 
 ponds, and stored with game. And, what 
 is above all this, governed by a lady, who 
 without any show of solicitude, keeps every- 
 thing in such admirable order, both within 
 and without, from the garret to the cellar, 
 that I do not believe there is any in this 
 nation, or in any other, that exceeds her 
 in such exact order, without ostentation, 
 but substantially great and noble. The 
 meanest servant is lodged so neat and 
 cleanly ; the service at the several tables, 
 the good order and decency — in a word, 
 the entire economy is perfectly becoming 
 a wise and noble person. She is one who 
 for her distinguished esteem of me from a 
 long and worthy friendship, I must ever 
 honour and celebrate. I wish from my 
 soul the Lord her husband (whose parts 
 and abilities are otherwise conspicuous) 
 was as worthy of her, as by a fatal apos- 
 tasy 2 and court - ambition he has made 
 himself unworthy ! This is what she 
 deplores, and it renders her as much afflic- 
 tion as a lady of great soul and much pru- 
 dence is capable of. The Countess of 
 Bristol, her mother, a grave and honour- 
 able lady, has the comfort of seeing her 
 daughter and grand - children under the 
 same economy, especially Mr. Charles 
 Spencer, 3 a youth of extraordinary hopes, 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 400.] 
 
 2 [He renounced Protestantism in 1688.] 
 
 3 [The eldest son (see ante, p. 334) dying without 
 issue, this Charles succeeded to the title and estate 
 
i688] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 405 
 
 very learned for his age, and ingenious, 
 and under a governor of great worth. 
 Happy were it, could as much be said of 
 the elder brother, the Lord Spencer, 1 who, 
 rambling about the world, dishonours both 
 his name and his family, adding sorrow to 
 sorrow to a mother, who has taken all 
 imaginable care of his education. There 
 is a daughter very young married to the 
 Earl of Clancarty, who has a great and 
 fair estate in Ireland, but who yet gives 
 no great presage of worth, — so universally 
 contaminated is the youth of this corrupt 
 and abandoned age ! But this is again 
 recompensed by my Lord Arran, a sober 
 and worthy gentleman, who has espoused 
 the Lady Ann Spencer, a young lady of 
 admirable accomplishments and virtue. 
 
 iyd August. I left this noble place 
 and conversation, my lady having provided 
 carriages to convey us back in the same 
 manner as we went, and a dinner being 
 prepared at Dunstable against our arrival. 
 Northampton, having been lately burnt 
 and re-edified, is now become a town that 
 for the beauty of the buildings, especially 
 the church and townhouse, may compare 
 with the neatest in Italy itself. 
 
 Dr. Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, wrote 
 a very honest and handsome letter to 
 the Commissioners Ecclesiastical, excusing 
 himself from sitting any longer among 
 them, he by no means approving of their 
 prosecuting the Clergy who refused to read' 
 the Declaration for liberty of conscience, 
 in prejudice of the Church of England. 
 
 The Dutch make extraordinary prepara- 
 tions both at sea and land, which with the 
 no small progress Popery makes among us, 
 puts us to many difficulties. The Popish 
 Irish soldiers commit many murders and 
 insults ; the whole nation disaffected, and 
 in apprehensions. ' 
 
 After long trials of the doctors to bring 
 up the little Prince of Wales by hand (so 
 many of her Majesty's children having 
 died infants) not succeeding, a country- 
 nurse, the wife of a tile-maker, is taken to 
 give it suck. 
 
 iStk September. I went to London, 
 
 as third Earl of Sunderland, and marrying in 1700 
 as his second wife Anne Churchill, second daughter 
 and at length co-heiress to John Duke of Marl- 
 borough, his son by her succeeded to that title. 
 1 [See ante, p. 334.] 
 
 where I found the Court in the utmost 
 consternation on report of the Prince of 
 Orange's landing ; which put Whitehall 
 into so panic a fear, that I could hardly 
 believe it possible to find such a change. 
 
 Writs were issued in order to a Parlia- 
 ment, and a declaration to back the good 
 order of elections, with great professions 
 of maintaining the Church of England, 
 but without giving any sort of satisfaction 
 to the people, who showed their high dis- 
 content at several things in the Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 Earthquakes had utterly demolished the 
 ancient Smyrna, and several other places 
 in Greece, Italy, and even in the Spanish 
 Indies, forerunners of greater calamities. 
 God Almighty preserve His Church and all 
 who put themselves under the shadow of 
 His wings, till these things be overpast. 
 
 30th. The Court in so extraordinary a 
 consternation, on assurance of the Prince 
 of Orange's intention to land, that the 
 writs sent forth for a Parliament were 
 recalled. 
 
 Jtk October. Dr. Tenison preached at 
 St. Martin's on 2 Tim. iii. 16, showing 
 the Scriptures to be our only rule of faith, 
 and its perfection above all traditions. 
 After which, near 1000 devout persons 
 partook of the Communion. The sermon 
 was chiefly occasioned by a Jesuit, who in 
 the Masshouse on the Sunday before had 
 disparaged the Scripture and railed at our 
 translation, which some present contradict- 
 ing, they pulled him out of the pulpit, and 
 treated him very coarsely, insomuch that 
 it was like to create a great disturbance in 
 the City. 
 
 Hourly expectation of the Prince of 
 Orange's invasion heightened to that 
 degree, that his Majesty thought fit to 
 abrogate the Commission for the dispens- 
 ing Power (but retaining his own right 
 still to dispense with all laws) and restore 
 the ejected Fellows of Magdalen College, 
 Oxford. In the meantime, he called over 
 5000 Irish, and 4000 Scots, and continued 
 to remove Protestants and put in Papists 
 at Portsmouth and other places of trust, 
 and retained the Jesuits about him, increas- 
 ing the universal discontent. It brought 
 people to so desperate a pass, that they 
 seemed passionately to long for and desire 
 the landing of that Prince, whom they 
 
406 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1688 
 
 looked on to be their deliverer from 
 Popish tyranny, praying incessantly for an 
 east wind, which was said to be the only 
 hindrance of his expedition with a numer- 
 ous army ready to make a descent. To 
 such a strange temper, and unheard of in 
 former times, was this poor nation reduced, 
 and of which I was an eyewitness. The 
 apprehension was (and with reason) that 
 his Majesty's forces would neither at land 
 nor sea oppose them with that vigour re- 
 quisite to repel invaders. 
 
 The late imprisoned Bishops were now 
 called to reconcile matters, and the Jesuits 
 hard at work to foment confusion among 
 the Protestants by their usual tricks. A 
 letter was sent to the Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, 1 informing him, from good hands, of 
 
 1 By Evelyn himself. The letter was as 
 follows : — 
 
 " My Lord, The honor and reputation which 
 y r Grace's piety prudence, and signal courage, 
 have justly merited and obtain'd, not onely from 
 the Sons of the Church of England, but even 
 universaly from those Protestants amongst us who 
 are Dissenters from her discipline ; God Almighty's 
 providence and blessing upon y r Grace's vigilancy 
 and extraordinary endeavours will not suffer to be 
 diminished in this conjecture. The conversation I 
 now and then have with some in place, who have 
 the opportunity of knowing what is doing in the 
 most seacret recesses and cabals of our Churches 
 adversaries, obliges me to acquaint you, that the 
 calling of y r Grace and the rest of the L ds Bishops 
 to Court, and what has there of late ben requir'd 
 of you, is onely to create a jealousie and suspicion 
 amongst well-meaning people of such compliances 
 as it is certaine they have no cause to appre- 
 hend. The plan of this and of all that w* is to 
 follow of seeming favour thence, is wholly drawn 
 by the Jesuites, who are at this time more than 
 ever buisy to make divisions amongst us, all other 
 arts and mechanisms having hitherto failed them. 
 They have, with other things, contriv'd that y r 
 Lordships the Bishops should give his Ma^' advice 
 separately, without calling any of the rest of the 
 Peeres, which, tho' maliciously suggested, spreads 
 generally about the towne. I do not at all question 
 but y r Grace will speedily prevent the operation of 
 this venome, and that you will thinke it highly 
 necessary so to do, that your Grace is also injoyn'd 
 to compose a form of prayer, wherein the Pr. of O. 
 is expressly to be named the Invader : of this I 
 presume not to say any thing ; but for as much as 
 in all the Declarations, etc., which have hitherto 
 been published in pretended favour of the Church 
 of England, there is not once the least mention of 
 the Reformed or Protestant Religion, but onely 
 of the Church 0/ England as by Laiv established, 
 which Church the Papists tell us is the Church of 
 Rome, which is (say they) the Catholic Church of 
 England that onely is establish 'd by Law ; the 
 Church of England in the Reformed sense so 
 established, is but by an usurp'd authority. The 
 
 what was contriving by them. A paper of 
 what the Bishops advised his Majesty was 
 published. The Bishops were enjoined to ■ 
 prepare a form of prayer against the feared 
 invasion. A pardon published. Soldiers 
 and mariners daily pressed. 
 
 \/\th October. The King's birthday. No 
 guns from the Tower as usual. The sun 
 eclipsed at its rising. This day signal for 
 the victory of William the Conqueror against 
 Harold, near Battle, in Sussex. The wind, 
 which had been hitherto west, was east all 
 this day. Wonderful expectation of the 
 Dutch fleet. Public prayers ordered to be 
 read in the churches against invasion. 
 
 281/1. A tumult in London on the rabble 
 demolishing a Popish chapel that had been 
 set up in the City. 
 
 2gt/i. Lady Sunderland acquainted me 
 with his Majesty's taking away the Seals 
 from Lord Sunderland, 1 and of her being 
 with the Queen to intercede for him. 2 It 
 is conceived that he had of late grown 
 remiss in pursuing the interest of the 
 Jesuitical counsels ; some reported one 
 thing, some another ; but there was doubt- 
 less some secret betrayed, which time may 
 discover. 
 
 There was a Council called, to which 
 were summoned the Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, the Judges, the Lord Mayor, etc. 
 The Queen - Dowager, and all the ladies 
 and lords who were present at the Queen- 
 Consort's labour, were to give their testi- 
 mony upon oath of the Prince of Wales's 
 
 antiquity of that would by these words be ex- 
 plained, and utterly defeate this false and sub- 
 dolous construction, and take off all exceptions 
 whatsoever ; if in all extraordinary offices, upon 
 all these occasions, the words Reformed and Pro- 
 testant, were added to that of the Church of 
 England by Law established. And whosoever 
 threatens to invade or come against us, to y° pre- 
 judice of that Church, in God's name, be they 
 Dutch or Irish, let us heartily pray and fight 
 against them. My Lord, this is, I confesse, a bold, 
 but honest period : and, tho I am well assured that 
 y r Grace is perfectly acquainted with all this before, 
 and therefore may blame my impertinence, as that 
 does aA\oTpioe7rt(7'K07rett' ; yet I am confident you 
 will not reprove the zeale of one who most humbly 
 beggs your Grace's pardon, with y r blessing 
 Lond., 10 Oct. 1688." (From a copy in Evelyn's 
 handwriting.) See post, under 15th January, 1689. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 385.] 
 
 2 [He obtained his pardon from the King on the 
 28th. "I hope you wilbe more faithfull to your 
 next master than you have been to me " — said James 
 in granting it and dismissing him (Bramston's 
 Autobiography, 1845, p. 327).] 
 
i688] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 407 
 
 birth, recorded both at the Council-Board 
 and at the Chancery a day or two after. 
 This procedure was censured by some as 
 below his Majesty to condescend to, on 
 the talk of the people. 1 It was remark- 
 able that on this occasion the Archbishop, 
 Marquis of Halifax, the Earls of Claren- 
 don and Nottingham, refused to sit at the 
 Council-table amongst Papists, and their 
 bold telling his Majesty that whatever was 
 done whilst such sat amongst them was 
 unlawful and incurred praemunire ; — at 
 least, if what I heard be true. 
 
 30th October. I dined with Lord Pres- 
 ton, 2 made Secretary of State, in the place 
 of the Earl of Sunderland. 3 
 
 Visited Mr. Boyle, 4 when came in the 
 Duke of Hamilton 5 and Earl of Burling- 
 ton. The Duke told us many particulars 
 of Mary Queen of Scots, and her amours 
 with the Italian favourite, etc. 
 
 fyist. My birthday, being the 68th year 
 of my age. O blessed Lord, grant that as 
 I grow in years, so may I improve in grace ! 
 Be Thou my Protector this following year, 
 and preserve me and mine from those 
 dangers and great confusions that threaten 
 a sad revolution to this sinful nation ! 
 Defend Thy Church, our holy religion, 
 and just laws, disposing his Majesty to 
 listen to sober and healing counsels, 
 that if it be Thy blessed will, we may 
 still enjoy that happy tranquillity which 
 hitherto Thou has continued to us ! 
 Amen, Amen ! 
 
 1st November. Dined with Lord Pres- 
 ton, with other company, at Sir Stephen 
 Fox's. Continual alarms of the Prince of 
 Orange, but no certainty. Reports of his 
 great losses of horse in the storm, but 
 without any assurance. A man was taken 
 with divers papers and printed manifestoes, 
 and carried to Newgate, after examination 
 at the Cabinet-Council. There was like- 
 wise a Declaration of the States for satis- 
 
 1 [Burnet gives a long account of this council 
 {History 0/ His Own Time, 1724, i. pp. 785-86).] 
 
 2 [" October 29. Came a report as if the Dutch 
 fleet had been much shattered by the storm ; that 
 my Lord Sunderland was certainly out, and my 
 Lord Preston Secretary of State. The King all 
 this time was making great preparations and levies 
 for his army, and had brought it by computation to 
 6000 horse and dragoons, and 38,000 foot " (Reres- 
 by's Memoirs, 1875, p. 409).] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 406.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 189.] 5 [See ante, p. 205.] 
 
 faction of all Public Ministers at the 
 Hague, except to the English and the 
 French. There was in that of the Prince's 
 an expression, as if the Lords both Spiritual 
 and Temporal had invited him over, with 
 a deduction of the causes of his enterprise. 
 This made his Majesty convene my Lord 
 of Canterbury and the other Bishops now 
 in town, to give an account of what was in 
 the manifesto, and to enjoin them to clear 
 themselves by some public writing of this 
 disloyal charge. 
 
 2nd. It was now certainly reported by 
 some who saw the fleet, and the Prince 
 embark, that they sailed from the Brill 
 on Wednesday morning, 1 and that the 
 Princess of Orange was there to take leave 
 of her husband. 
 
 4tk. Fresh reports of the Prince being 
 landed somewhere about Portsmouth, or 
 the Isle of Wight, whereas it was thought 
 it would have been northward. The Court 
 in great hurry. 
 
 $t/i. I went to London ; heard the 
 news of the Prince having landed at 
 Torbay, 2 coming with a fleet of near 700 
 sail, passing through the Channel with so 
 favourable a wind, that our navy could not 
 intercept, or molest them. This put the 
 King and Court into great consternation, 
 they were now employed in forming an 
 army to stop their further progress, for 
 they were got into Exeter, and the season 
 and ways very improper for his Majesty's 
 forces to march so great a distance. 
 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury and some 
 few of the other Bishops and Lords in 
 London, were sent for to Whitehall, and 
 required to set forth their abhorrence of 
 this invasion. They assured his Majesty 
 they had never invited any of the Prince's 
 party, or were in the least privy to it, and 
 would be ready to show all testimony of 
 their loyalty ; but, as to a public declara- 
 tion, being so few, they desired that his 
 Majesty would call the rest of their brethren 
 and Peers, that they might consult what 
 was fit to be done on this occasion, not 
 thinking it right to publish anything with- 
 out them, and till they had themselves 
 seen the Prince's Manifesto, in which it 
 
 1 [" On the first of Noveviber O.S. we sailed out 
 with the evening tide," says Burnet {History of 
 His Own Time, 1724, i. p. 787).] 
 
 2 [On the 5th November.] 
 
408 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1688 
 
 was pretended he was invited in by the 
 Lords Spiritual and Temporal. This did 
 lot please the King ; so they departed. 
 
 A Declaration was published, pro- 
 libiting all persons to see or read the 
 Prince's Manifesto, in which was set 
 ibrth at large the cause of his expedition, 
 is there had been one before from the 
 states. 
 
 These are the beginnings of sorrow, 
 inless God in His mercy prevent it by 
 >ome happy reconciliation of all dis- 
 sensions among us. This, in all likeli- 
 lood, nothing can effect except a free 
 Parliament ; but this we cannot hope to 
 ;ee, whilst there are any forces on either 
 ;ide. I pray God to protect and direct 
 he King for the best and truest interest 
 )f his people ! — I saw his Majesty touch 
 or the evil, Piten the Jesuit, and Warner 
 >fnciating. 
 
 14M November. The Prince increases 
 ivery day in force. Several Lords go in 
 o him. Lord Cornbury 1 carries some 
 egiments, and marches to Honiton, the 
 Wince's headquarters. The City of London 
 n disorder ; the rabble pulled down the 
 nmnery newly bought by the Papists of 
 Lord Berkeley, at St. John's. The Queen 
 prepares to go to Portsmouth for safety, to 
 ittend the issue of this commotion, which 
 las a dreadful aspect. 
 
 \%th. It was now a very hard frost. 
 The King goes to Salisbury to rendezvous 
 he army, and return to London. Lord 
 Delamere appears for the Prince in Che- 
 ihire. The nobility meet in Yorkshire. 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury and some 
 Bishops, and such Peers as were in London, 
 iddress his Majesty to call a Parliament. 
 The King invites all foreign nations to 
 :ome over. The French take all the 
 Palatinate, and alarm the Germans more 
 han ever. 
 
 2gt/i. I went to the Royal Society. 
 Ne adjourned the election of a President 
 o 23rd April, by reason of the public 
 :ommotions, yet dined together as of 
 :ustom this day. 
 
 2nd December. Dr. Tenison preached 
 it St. Martin's on Psalm xxxvi. 5, 6, 7, 
 :oncerning Providence. I received the 
 )lessed Sacrament. Afterwards, visited 
 ny Lord Godolphin, then going with the 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 384. ] 
 
 Marquis of Halifax and Earl of Notting- 
 ham as Commissioners to the Prince of 
 Orange ; he told me they had little power. 
 Plymouth declared for the Prince. Bath, 
 York, Hull, Bristol, and all the eminent 
 nobility and persons of quality through 
 England, declare for the Protestant religion 
 and laws, and go to meet the Prince, who 
 every day sets forth new Declarations 
 against the Papists. The great favourites 
 at Court, Priests and Jesuits, fly or abscond. 
 Everything, till now concealed, flies abroad 
 in public print, and is cried about the 
 streets. Expectation of the Prince coming 
 to Oxford. The Prince of Wales and great 
 treasure sent privily to Portsmouth, 1 the 
 Earl of Dover being Governor. Address 
 from the Fleet not grateful to his Majesty. 
 The Papists in offices lay down their com- 
 missions, and fly. Universal consternation 
 amongst them ; it looks like a revolution. 
 
 7///. My son went towards Oxford. I 
 returned home. 
 
 9//z. Lord Sunderland meditates flight. 2 
 The rabble demolished all Popish chapels, 
 and several Papist lords and gentlemen's 
 houses, especially that of the Spanish 
 Ambassador, which they pillaged, and 
 burnt his library. 3 
 
 13//Z. The King flies to sea, puts in 
 at Feversham for ballast ; is rudely treated 
 by the people ; comes back to Whitehall. 4 
 
 The Prince of Orange is advanced to 
 
 1 [He was brought back, December 8 ; "and on 
 Sunday night, being the 9th, the Queen with the 
 Prince went about twelve o'clock to a barge down 
 the river secretly prepared, and, the wind being 
 fair, wafted over to Dunkirk " (Reresby's Memoirs, 
 1875, p. 421).] 
 
 2 [He had apparently already gone. " He fled 
 to Rotterdam, disguised in a woman's dress," in 
 November, says the Diet. Nat. Biog."\ 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 334. According to Reresby, 
 goods and plate were taken from him to the value 
 of one hundred thousand pounds, much of which 
 had been sent to him for security {Memoirs, 1875, 
 p. 422).] 
 
 4 [Evelyn's rapid summary requires expansion. 
 On the morning of the nth December, between 
 two and three o'clock, the King left Whitehall 
 
 grivately in a hackney coach provided by Sir 
 Edward Hales, Lieutenant of the Tower, whose 
 servant he pretended to be. This carried them to 
 Milbank, where they took boat for Vauxhall, 
 throwing the Great Seal into the river. They then 
 went on in a carriage to Sheerness, where a custom- 
 house-hoy was to convey them to France. A gale 
 was blowing, and they had to take in ballast at 
 Sheppey. Putting out again, they were boarded 
 by a number of Faversham fishermen. "They 
 used the King . . . very incivilly," says Reresby, — 
 
1689] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 409 
 
 Windsor, is invited by the King to St. 
 James's, the messenger sent was the Earl 
 of Faversham, the General of the Forces, 
 who going without trumpet, or passport, is 
 detained prisoner by the Prince, who 
 accepts the invitation, but requires his 
 Majesty to retire to some distant place, 
 that his own guards may be quartered 
 about the Palace and City. This is taken 
 heinously, and the King goes privately to 
 Rochester ; is persuaded to come back ; 
 comes on the Sunday ; goes to mass, and 
 dines in public, a Jesuit saying grace (I 
 was present). 
 
 1 Jth December. That night was a Council ; 
 his Majesty refuses to assent to "all the pro- 
 posals ; goes away again to Rochester. 1 
 
 iSt/i. I saw the King take barge to 
 Gravesend at twelve o'clock — a sad sight ! 
 The Prince comes to St. James's, and fills 
 Whitehall with Dutch guards. A Council 
 of Peers meet about an expedient to call a 
 Parliament ; adjourn to the House of 
 Lords. The Chancellor, Earl of Peter- 
 borough, and divers others taken. The 
 Earl of Sunderland flies ; Sir Edward 
 Hales, Walker, and others, taken and 
 secured. 
 
 All the world go to see the Prince at St. 
 James's, where there is a great Court. 
 There I saw him, and several of my 
 acquaintance who came over with him. 
 He is very stately, serious, and reserved. 
 The English soldiers sent out of town to 
 disband them ; not well pleased. 
 
 24th. The King passes into France, 
 whither the Queen and child were gone a 
 few days before. 2 
 
 "took from His Majesty 300 guineas, all he was 
 worth at that time, and his sword. When they 
 knew it was the King, they offered to restore bothj 
 the King received the latter, but not the first" 
 {Memoirs, 1875, p. 424). He was detained at 
 Faversham for two days in the Mayor's house, and 
 then allowed to go to Rochester ; but on the even- 
 ing of Sunday the 16th (see infra) he was again at 
 Whitehall.] 
 
 1 [Having been at Whitehall on the i6th, he was 
 sent back to Rochester on the 17th (Monday). On 
 the night of Saturday, the 22nd, he left Rochester, 
 passed to the Med way, and, on the morning of the 
 23rd boarded a smack which took him out of the 
 Thames. At 3 a.m. on Christmas Day, 1688, he 
 landed at the little village of Ambleteuse in 
 Brittany. His abdication is usually dated from 
 nth December, when he first quitted Whitehall. 
 "With this," says Burnet, "his reign ended 
 (History of His Own Time, i7M> »■ P- 79 6 )-l 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 408. Louis XIV. gave the fugi- 
 
 26th. The Peers and such Commoners 
 as were members of the Parliament at 
 Oxford, being the last of Charles II. meet- 
 ing, desire the Prince of Orange to take on 
 him the disposal of the public revenue till 
 a convention of Lords and Commons should 
 *neet in full body, appointed by his circular 
 letters to the shires and boroughs, 22nd 
 January. I had now quartered upon me a 
 Lieutenant-Colonel and eight horses. 
 
 2,0th. This day prayers for the Prince 
 of Wales were first left off in our church. 
 
 1688-9 : *]lh January. A long frost 
 and deep snow ; the Thames almost frozen 
 over. 
 
 15M. I visited the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, where I found the Bishops 
 of St. Asaph, 1 Ely, 2 Bath and Wells, :j 
 Peterborough, 4 and Chichester, 5 the Earls 
 of Aylesbury and Clarendon, Sir George 
 Mackenzie 6 Lord-Advocate of Scotland, 
 and then came in a Scotch Archbishop, 
 etc. After prayers and dinner, divers 
 serious matters were discoursed, concerning 
 the present state of the Public, and sorry I 
 was to find there was as yet no accord in 
 the judgments of those of the Lords and 
 Commons who were to convene ; some 
 would have the Princess made Queen 
 without any more dispute, others were for 
 a Regency ; there was a Tory party (then 
 so called), who were for inviting his 
 Majesty again upon conditions ; and there 
 were Republicarians who would make the 
 Prince of Orange like a Stadtholder. The 
 Romanists were busy among these several 
 parties to bring them into confusion : most 
 for ambition or other interest, few for 
 conscience and moderate resolutions. I 
 found nothing of all this in this assembly 
 of Bishops, who were pleased to admit me 
 into their discourses ; they were all for a 
 Regency, thereby to salve their oaths, and 
 so all public matters to proceed in his 
 Majesty's name, by that to facilitate the 
 calling of a Parliament, according to the 
 laws in being. Such was the result of this 
 meeting. 
 
 My Lord of Canterbury gave me great 
 thanks for the advertisement I sent him in 
 
 tives asylum at St. Germain. There is an account 
 of their reception in a letter of Mme. de Sevigne to 
 her daughter early in 1689.] 
 
 1 Lloyd. 2 Turner. 
 
 3 Ken. 4 White. 
 
 5 Lake. 6 See ante, p. 254. 
 
4IO 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1689 
 
 October, 1 and assured me they took my 
 counsel in that particular, and that it came 
 very seasonably. 
 
 I found by the Lord-Advocate 2 that the 
 Bishops of Scotland (who were indeed 
 little worthy of that character, and had 
 done much mischief in that Church) were* 
 now coming about to the true interest, 
 in this conjuncture which threatened to 
 abolish the whole hierarchy in that king- 
 dom ; and therefore the Scottish Archbishop 
 and Lord-Advocate requested the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury to use his best 
 endeavours with the Prince to maintain 
 the Church there in the same state, as by 
 law at present settled. 
 
 It now growing late, after some private 
 discourse with his Grace, I took my leave, 
 most of the Lords being gone. 
 
 The trial of the bishops was now 
 printed. 
 
 The great convention being assembled 
 the day before, falling upon the question 
 about the Government, resolved that King 
 James having by the advice of the Jesuits 
 and other wicked persons endeavoured to 
 subvert the laws of Church and State, and 
 deserted the kingdom, carrying away the 
 seals, 3 etc., without any care for the 
 management of the government, had by 
 demise abdicated himself and wholly 
 vacated his right ; they did therefore desire 
 the Lords' concurrence to their vote, to 
 place the crown on the next heir, the 
 Prince of Orange, for his life, then to the 
 Princess, his wife, and if she died without 
 issue, to the Princess of Denmark, and she 
 failing, to the heirs of the Prince, exclud- 
 ing for ever all possibility of admitting a 
 Roman Catholic. 
 
 27 'th January. I dined at the Admiralty, 
 where was brought in a child not twelve 
 years old, the son of one Dr. Clench, of 
 the most prodigious maturity of know- 
 ledge, for I cannot call it altogether 
 memory, but something more extra- 
 ordinary. 4 Mr. Pepys and myself ex- 
 
 1 See ante, p. 406. - [Sir George Mackenzie.] 
 
 3 [The Great Seal was thrown into the Thames 
 upon the King's first attempt to escape (see ante, 
 p. 408 «.).] 
 
 4 See a similar account of the afterwards cele- 
 brated William Wotton, ante, p. 319. Dr. Andrew 
 Clench was murdered in a hackney-coach in 1692, 
 and a man named Henry Harrison was convicted 
 and hanged for the murder although he denied his 
 guilt (szepost, under 6th January, 1692). 
 
 amined him, not in any method, but 
 with promiscuous questions, which re- 
 quired judgment and discernment to 
 answer so readily and pertinently. There 
 was not anything in chronology, history, 
 geography, the several systems of as- 
 tronomy, courses of the stars, longitude, 
 latitude, doctrine of the spheres, courses 
 and sources of rivers, creeks, harbours, 
 eminent cities, boundaries and bearings of 
 countries, not only in Europe, but in any 
 other part of the earth, which he did not 
 readily resolve and demonstrate his know- 
 ledge of, readily drawing out with a pen 
 anything he would describe. He was able 
 'not only to repeat the most famous things 
 which are left us in any of the Greek or 
 Roman histories, monarchies, republics, 
 wars, colonies, exploits by sea and land, 
 but all the sacred stories of the Old and 
 New Testament ; the succession of all the 
 monarchies, Babylonian, Persian, Greek, 
 Roman, with all the lower Emperors, 
 Popes, Heresiarchs, and Councils, what 
 they were called about, what they deter- 
 mined, or in the controversy about Easter, 
 the tenets of the Gnostics, Sabellians, 
 Arians, Nestorians ; the difference between 
 St. Cyprian and Stephen about re-baptiza- 
 tion ; the schisms. We leaped from that 
 to other things totally different, to Olympic 
 years, and synchronisms ; we asked him 
 questions which could not be resolved 
 without considerable meditation and judg- 
 ment, nay of some particulars of the 
 Civil Laws, of the Digest and Code. He 
 gave a stupendous account of both natural 
 and moral philosophy, and even in meta- 
 physics. 
 
 Having thus exhausted ourselves rather 
 than this wonderful child, or angel rather, 
 for he was as beautiful and lovely in 
 countenance as in knowledge, we con- 
 cluded with asking him if, in all he had 
 read or heard of, he had ever met with 
 anything which was like this expedition of 
 the Prince of Orange, with so small a 
 force to obtain three great kingdoms with- 
 out any contest. After a little thought, he 
 told us that he knew of nothing which did 
 more resemble it than the coming of Con- 
 stantine the Great out of Britain, through 
 France and Italy, so tedious a march, to 
 meet Maxentius, whom he overthrew at 
 Pons Milvius with very little conflict, and 
 
1689] 
 
 THE DJAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 411 
 
 at the very gates of Rome, which he 
 entered and was received with triumph, 
 and obtained the empire, not of three 
 kingdoms only, but of all the then known 
 world. He was perfect in the Latin 
 authors, spake French naturally, and gave 
 us a description of France, Italy, Savoy, 
 Spain, ancient and modernly divided ; as 
 also of ancient Greece, Scythia, and 
 northern countries and tracts : we left 
 questioning further. He did this without 
 any set or formal repetitions, as one who 
 had learned things without book, but as if 
 he minded other things, going about the 
 room, and toying with a parrot there, and 
 as he was at dinner {tanquam alind agens, 
 as it were) seeming to be full of play, of a 
 lively, sprightly temper, always smiling, 
 and exceeding pleasant, without the least 
 levity, rudeness, or childishness. 
 
 His father assured us he never imposed 
 anything to charge his memory by causing 
 him to get things by heart, not even the 
 rules of grammar ; but his tutor (who was 
 a Frenchman) read to him, first in French, 
 then in Latin ; that he usually played 
 amongst other boys four or five hours every 
 day, and that he was as earnest at his play 
 as at his study. He was perfect in arith- 
 metic, and now newly entered into Greek. 
 In sum (horresco referens), I had read of 
 divers forward and precocious youths, and 
 some I have known, but I never did either 
 hear or read of anything like to this sweet 
 child, if it be right to call him child who 
 has more knowledge than most men in the 
 world. I counselled his father not to set 
 his heart too much on this jewel, 
 
 Immodicis brevis est aetas, et rara senectus, 1 
 
 as I myself learned by sad experience in 
 my most dear child Richard, 2 many years 
 since, who, dying before he was six years 
 old, was both in shape and countenance 
 and pregnancy of learning, next to a 
 prodigy. 
 
 29th January. The votes of the House 
 of Commons being carried up by Mr. 
 Hampden, 3 their chairman, to the Lords, 
 I got a station by the Prince's lodgings at 
 the door of the lobby to the House, and 
 heard much of the debate, which lasted 
 
 1 [Martial, Epp. Bk. VI. xxix. 11. 7, 8.] 
 
 •± [See ante, p. 196.] 3 [See ante, p. 331.] 
 
 very long. Lord Derby 1 was in the chair 
 (for the House was resolved into a grand 
 committee of the whole House) ; after all 
 had spoken, it came to the question, which 
 was carried by three voices against a 
 Regency, which 51 were for, 54 against ; 
 the minority alleging the danger of de- 
 throning Kings, and scrupling many 
 passages and expressions in the vote of 
 the Commons, too long to set down 
 particularly. Some were for sending to 
 his Majesty with conditions : others that 
 the King could do no wrong, and that the 
 mal-administration was chargeable on his 
 ministers. There were not more than 
 eight or nine bishops, and but two against 
 the Regency ; the Archbishop was absent, 
 and the clergy now began to change their 
 note, both in pulpit and discourse, on their 
 old passive obedience, so as people began 
 to talk of the bishops being cast out of the 
 House. In short, things tended to dis- 
 satisfaction on both sides ; add to this, the 
 morose temper of the Prince of Orange, 
 who showed little countenance to the 
 noblemen and others, who expected a more 
 gracious and cheerful reception when they 
 made their court. The English army also 
 was not so in order, and firm to his 
 interest, nor so weakened but that it might 
 give interruption. Ireland was in an ill 
 posture as well as Scotland. Nothing was 
 yet done towards a settlement. God of 
 His infinite mercy compose these things, 
 that we may be at last a Nation and a 
 Church under some fixed and sober estab- 
 lishment ! 
 
 30M. The anniversary of King Charles 
 the First's martyrdo?n ; but in all the 
 public offices and pulpit prayers, the collects, 
 and litany for the King and Queen were 
 curtailed and mutilated. Dr. Sharp 2 
 preached before the Commons, but was 
 disliked, and not thanked for his sermon. 
 
 315/. At our church (the next day being 
 appointed a Thanksgiving for deliverance 
 by the Prince of Orange, with prayers 
 purposely composed), our lecturer preached 
 in the afternoon a very honest sermon, 
 showing our duty to God for the many 
 signal deliverances of our Church, without 
 touching on politics. 
 
 6th February. The King's coronation- 
 
 1 [William George Richard Stanley, ninth Earl 
 of Derby, 1656-1702.] - [See ante, p. 391.] 
 
412 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1689 
 
 day was ordered not to be observed, as 
 hitherto it had been. 
 
 The Convention of the Lords and Com- 
 mons now declare the Prince and Princess 
 of Orange King and Queen of England, 
 France, and Ireland (Scotland being an 
 independent kingdom), the Prince and 
 Princess being to enjoy it jointly during 
 their lives ; but the executive authority to 
 be vested in the Prince during life, though 
 all proceedings to run in both names, and 
 that it should descend to their issue, and 
 for want of such, to the Princess Anne of 
 Denmark and her issue, and in want of 
 such, to the heirs of the body of the Prince, 
 if he survive, and that failing, to devolve 
 to the Parliament, as they should think fit. 
 These produced a conference with the 
 Lords, when also there were presented 
 heads of such new laws as were to be 
 enacted. It is thought on these conditions 
 they will be proclaimed. 
 
 There was much contest about the 
 King's abdication, and whether he had 
 vacated the government. The Earl of 
 Nottingham 1 and about twenty Lords, and 
 many Bishops, entered their protests, but 
 the concurrence was great against them. 
 
 The Princess hourly expected. Forces 
 sending to Ireland, that kingdom being in 
 great danger by the Earl of Tyrconnel's 
 army, and expectations from France coming 
 to assist them, but that King was busy in 
 invading Flanders, and encountering the 
 German Princes. It is likely that this will 
 be the most remarkable summer for action, 
 which has happened in many years. 
 
 21st February. Dr. Burnet preached at 
 St. James's on the obligation to walk 
 worthy of God's particular and signal 
 deliverance of the Nation and Church. 
 
 I saw the new Queen and King pro- 
 claimed the very next day after her coming 
 to Whitehall, Wednesday, 13th February, 
 with great acclamation and general good 
 reception. Bonfires, bells, guns, etc. It 
 was believed that both, especially the 
 Princess, would have showed some (seem- 
 ing) reluctance at least, of assuming her 
 father's Crown, and made some apology, 
 testifying by her regret that he should by 
 his mismanagement necessitate the Nation 
 to so extraordinary a proceeding, which 
 would have showed very handsomely to 
 1 [See ante, p. 407.] 
 
 the world, and according to the character 
 given of her piety ; consonant also to her 
 husband's first declaration, that there was 
 no intention of deposing the King, but of 
 succouring the Nation ; but nothing of all 
 this appeared ; she came into Whitehall 
 laughing and jolly, as to a wedding, so as 
 to seem quite transported. She rose early 
 the next morning, and in her undress, as it 
 was reported, before her women were up, 
 went about from room to room to see the 
 convenience of Whitehall ; lay in the same 
 bed and apartment where the late Queen 
 lay, and within a night or two sat down to 
 play at basset, as the Queen her predecessor 
 used to do. She smiled upon and talked 
 to everybody, so that no change seemed to 
 have taken place at Court since her last 
 going away, save that infinite crowds of 
 people thronged to see her, and that she 
 went to our prayers. This carriage was 
 censured by many. She seems to be of a 
 good nature, and that she takes nothing to 
 heart : whilst the Prince her husband has a 
 thoughtful countenance, is wonderful serious 
 and silent and seems to treat all persons 
 alike gravely, and to be very intent on 
 affairs : Holland, Ireland, and France 
 calling for his care. 
 
 Divers Bishops and Noblemen are not at 
 all satisfied with this so sudden assumption 
 of the Crown, without any previous sending, 
 and offering some conditions to the absent 
 King ; or, on his not returning, or not 
 assenting to those conditions, to have pro- 
 claimed him Regent; but the major part 
 of both Houses prevailed to make them 
 King and Queen immediately, and a crown 
 was tempting. This was opposed and 
 spoken against with such vehemence by 
 Lord Clarendon (her own uncle), 1 that it 
 put him by all preferment, which must 
 doubtless have been as great as could have 
 been given him. My Lord of Rochester 
 his brother, 2 overshot himself, by the same 
 carriage and stiffness, which their friends 
 thought they might have well spared when 
 they saw how it was like to be overruled, 
 and that it had been sufficient to have 
 declared their dissent with less passion, 
 acquiescing in due time. 
 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury and some 
 of the rest, on scruple of conscience and to 
 salve the oaths they had taken, entered 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 231.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 323.] 
 
1689] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 413 
 
 their protests and hung off, especially the 
 Archbishop, who had not all this while so 
 much as appeared out of Lambeth. This 
 occasioned the wonder of many who 
 observed with what zeal they contributed 
 to the Prince's expedition, and all the while 
 also rejecting any proposals of sending 
 again to the absent King ; that they should 
 now raise scruples, and such as created 
 much division among the people, greatly 
 rejoicing the old courtiers, and especially 
 the Papists. 
 
 Another objection was, the invalidity of 
 what was done by a Convention only, and 
 the as yet unabrogated laws ; this drew 
 them to make themselves on the 22nd 
 [February] 1 a Parliament, the new King 
 passing the Act with the crown on his head. 
 The lawyers disputed, but necessity pre- 
 vailed, the Government requiring a speedy 
 settlement. 
 
 Innumerable were the crowds, who 
 solicited for, and expected offices ; most of 
 the old ones were turned out. Two or 
 three white staves were disposed of some 
 days before, as Lord Steward, to the Earl 
 of Devonshire ; 2 Treasurer of the House- 
 hold, to Lord Newport ; 3 Lord Chamber- 
 lain to the King, to my Lord of Dorset ; 4 
 but there were as yet none in offices of the 
 Civil Government save the Marquis of 
 Halifax as Privy Seal. A council of thirty 
 was chosen, Lord Derby president, but 
 neither Chancellor nor Judges were yet 
 declared, the new Great Seal not yet 
 finished. 
 
 %th March. Dr. Tillotson, Dean of 
 Canterbury, made an excellent discourse 
 on Matt. v. 44, exhorting to charity and 
 forgiveness of enemies ; I suppose pur- 
 posely, the new Parliament being furious 
 about impeaching those who were ob- 
 noxious, and as their custom has ever been, 
 going on violently, without reserve, or 
 moderation, whilst wise men were of 
 opinion the most notorious offenders being 
 named and excepted, an Act of Amnesty 
 would be more seasonable, to pacify the 
 minds of men in so general a discontent of 
 the nation, especially of those who did not 
 expect to see the government assumed 
 without any regard to the absent King, or 
 proving a spontaneous abdication, or that 
 
 1 [1 Gul. and Mar. ex.] 2 [See ante, p. 167.] 
 3 [See ante, p. 210.] 4 [See ante, p. 292.] 
 
 the birth of the Prince of Wales was an 
 imposture ; five of the Bishops also still 
 refusing to take the new oath. * 
 
 In the meantime, to gratify the people, 
 the Hearth-Tax was remitted for ever ; * 2 
 but what was intended to supply it, besides 
 present great taxes on land, is not named. 
 
 The King abroad was now furnished 
 by the French King with money and 
 officers for an expedition to Ireland. The 
 great neglect in not more timely preventing 
 that from hence, and the disturbances in 
 Scotland, give apprehensions of great 
 difficulties, before any settlement can be 
 perfected here, whilst the Parliament dis- 
 pose of the great offices amongst them- 
 selves. The Great Seal, Treasury and 
 Admiralty put into commission of many 
 unexpected persons, to gratify the more ; so 
 that by the present appearance of things 
 (unless God Almighty graciously interpose 
 and give success in Ireland and settle Scot- 
 land) more trouble seems to threaten the 
 nation than could be expected. In the 
 interim, the new King refers all to the 
 Parliament in the most popular manner, 
 but is very slow in providing against all 
 these menaces, besides finding difficulties 
 in raising men to send abroad ; the former 
 army, which had never seen any service 
 hitherto, receiving their pay and passing 
 their summer in an idle scene of a camp at 
 Hounslow, unwilling to engage, and many 
 disaffected, and scarce to be trusted. 
 
 29th. The new King much blamed for 
 neglecting Ireland, now like to be ruined 
 by the Lord Tyrconnel and his Popish 
 parly, too strong for the Protestants. 
 Wonderful uncertainty where King James 
 was, whether in France or Ireland. 
 The Scots seem as yet to favour King 
 William, rejecting King James's letter to 
 them, yet declaring nothing positively. 
 Soldiers in England discontented. Parlia- 
 ment preparing the coronation-oath. Pres- 
 byterians and Dissenters displeased at the 
 vote for preserving the Protestant religion 
 as established by law, without mentioning 
 what they were to have as to indulgence. 
 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury 3 and 
 
 1 [Seven bishops refused, i.e. Bath and Wells, 
 Chichester, Ely, Gloucester, Norwich, Peter- 
 borough, and Worcester, in addition to the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury. 
 
 2 [1 Gul. and Mar. c. 10.] 3 [Sancroft.] 
 
4H 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1689 
 
 four l other Bishops refusing to come to 
 Parliament, it was deliberated whether 
 they should incur Prceijiunire ; but it was 
 thought fit to let this fall, and be connived 
 at, for fear of the people, to whom these 
 Prelates were very dear, for the opposition 
 they had given to Popery. 
 
 Court-offices distributed amongst Parlia- 
 ment-men. No considerable fleet as yet 
 sent forth. Things far from settled as was 
 expected, by reason of the slothful, sickly 
 temper of the new King, and the Parlia- 
 ment's unmindfulness of Ireland, which is 
 likely to prove a sad omission. 
 
 The Confederates beat the French out of 
 the Palatinate, which they had most bar- 
 barously ruined. 
 
 1 ith April. I saw the procession to and 
 from the Abbey-Church of Westminster, 
 with the great feast in Westminster-Hall 
 at the coronation of King William 
 and Queen Mary. What was different 
 from former coronations, was some altera- 
 tion in the coronation-oath. Dr. Burnet, 
 now made Bishop of Sarum, preached with 
 great applause. The Parliament-men had 
 scaffolds and places which took up one 
 whole side of the Hall. When the King 
 and Queen had dined, the ceremony of the 
 Champion, and other services by tenure 
 were performed. The Parliament - men 
 were feasted in the Exchequer-chamber, 
 and had each of them a gold medal given 
 them, worth five-and -forty shillings. On 
 one side were the effigies of the King and 
 Queen inclining one to the other ; on the 
 reverse was Jupiter throwing a bolt at 
 Phaeton, the words, ll JVe tolits ab- 
 sumatur " : which was but dull, seeing 
 they might have had out of the poet some- 
 thing as apposite. The sculpture was very 
 mean. 
 
 Much of the splendour of the proceeding 
 was abated by the absence of divers who 
 should have contributed to it, there being 
 but five Bishops, four Judges (no more 
 
 1 Burnet names only three besides the Arch- 
 bishop, namely, Thomas of Worcester, Lake of 
 Chichester, Ken of Bath and Wells. He says 
 (History of His Own Time, 1734, ii. pp. 6, 7) that 
 at the first landing of the Prince, Ken " declared 
 heartily for him," and advised all to go to him ; 
 but went with great heat into the notion of a 
 Regent. After this, he changed his mind, came to 
 town with intent to take the oaths, but again 
 changed, and never did take them. 
 
 being yet sworn), and several noblemen 
 and great ladies wanting ; the feast, how- 
 ever, was magnificent. The next day the 
 House of Commons went and kissed their 
 new Majesties' hands in the Banqueting- 
 house. 
 
 12th. I went with the Bishop of St. 
 Asaph to visit my Lord of Canterbury at 
 Lambeth, who had excused himself from 
 officiating at the coronation, which was 
 performed by the Bishop of London, 1 
 assisted by the Archbishop of York. 2 We 
 had much private and free discourse with 
 his Grace concerning several things relating 
 to the Church, there being now a bill of 
 comprehension to be brought from the 
 Lords to the Commons. I urged that 
 when they went about to reform some 
 particulars, in the Liturgy, Church dis- 
 cipline, Canons, etc., the baptizing in 
 private houses without necessity might be 
 reformed, as likewise so frequent burials in 
 churches ; 3 the one proceeding much from 
 the pride of women, bringing that into 
 custom which was only indulged in case of 
 imminent danger, and out of necessity 
 during the rebellion, and persecution of 
 the clergy in our late civil wars ; the other 
 from the avarice of ministers, who, in 
 some opulent parishes, made almost as 
 much of permission to bury in the chancel 
 and the church, as of their livings, and 
 were paid with considerable advantage 
 and gifts for baptizing in chambers. To 
 this they heartily assented, and promised 
 their endeavour to get it reformed, utterly 
 disliking both practices as novel and 
 indecent. 
 
 We discoursed likewise of the great dis- 
 turbance and prejudice it might cause, 
 should the new oath, now on the anvil, be 
 imposed on any, save such as were in new 
 office, without any retrospect to such as 
 either had no office, or had been long in 
 office, who it was likely would have some 
 scruples about taking a new oath, having 
 already sworn fidelity to the government as 
 established by law. This we all knew to 
 be the case of my Lord Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, and some other persons who 
 were not so fully satisfied with the Con- 
 vention making it an abdication of King 
 James, to whom they had sworn allegiance. 
 
 1 [Dr. Compton.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 344 «.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Lloyd.] 
 
1689] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 415 
 
 King James was now certainly in Ire- 
 land, 1 with the Marshal d'Estrades, whom 
 he made a Privy Councillor ; and who 
 caused the King to remove the Protestant 
 Councillors, some whereof, it seems, had 
 continued to sit, telling him that the King 
 of France his master would never assist 
 him if he did not immediately do it ; by 
 which it is apparent how the poor Prince 
 is managed by the French. 
 
 Scotland declares for King William and 
 Queen Mary, 2 with the reasons for their 
 setting aside King James, not as abdicat- 
 ing, but forfeiting his right by maladminis- 
 tration ; they proceeded with much more 
 caution and prudence than we did, who 
 precipitated all things to the great re- 
 proach of the nation, all which had been 
 managed by some crafty, ill - principled 
 men. The new Privy Council have a 
 Republican spirit, manifestly undermining 
 all future succession of the crown and 
 prosperity of the Church of England, 
 which yet I hope they will not be able 
 to accomplish so soon as they expect, 
 though they get into all places of trust and 
 profit. 
 
 i\st April. This was one of the most 
 seasonable springs, free from the usual 
 sharp east winds that I have observed 
 since the year 1660 (the year of the 
 Restoration), which was much such an 
 one. 
 
 26th. I heard the lawyers plead before 
 the Lords the writ of error in the judgment 
 of Oates, as to the charge against him of 
 perjury, which after debate they referred to 
 the answer of Holloway, etc., who were 
 his Judges. 3 I then went with the Bishop 
 of St. Asaph to the Archbishop at Lam- 
 beth, where they entered into discourse 
 concerning the final destruction of Anti- 
 christ, both concluding that the third 
 trumpet and vial were now pouring out. 
 My Lord St. Asaph considered the killing 
 of the two witnesses, to be the utter 
 destruction of the Cevennes Protestants 
 
 1 [He had landed at Kinsale on the 12th March, 
 entered Dublin March 24, and by the 20th April 
 was besieging Londonderry (see infra, 26th April).] 
 
 2 [They were proclaimed on the nth April.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 373. His judges, with Jeffreys, 
 had been Sir Richard Holloway and Sir Francis 
 Wythens, who attended at the bar of the House of 
 Lords to defend their sentence. Jeffreys had just 
 died in prison, aged forty, 18th April, 1689.] 
 
 by the French and Duke of Savoy, and 
 the other the Waldenses and Pyrenean 
 Christians, who by all appearance from 
 good history had kept the primitive faith 
 from the very Apostles' time till now. 
 The doubt his Grace suggested was, whether 
 it could be made evident that the present 
 persecution had made so great a havoc of 
 those faithful people as of the other, and 
 whether there were not yet some among 
 them in being who met together, it being 
 stated from the text, Apoc. xi., that they 
 should both be slain together. They both 
 much approved of Mr. Mede's 1 way of 
 interpretation, and that he only failed in 
 resolving too hastily on the King of 
 Sweden's (Gustavus Adolphus) success in 
 Germany. They agreed that it would be 
 good to employ some intelligent French 
 minister to travel as far as the Pyrenees to 
 understand the present state of the Church 
 there, it being a country, where hardly any 
 one travels. 
 
 There now came certain news that King 
 James had not only landed in Ireland, but 
 that he had surprised Londonderry, and 
 was become master of that kingdom, to 
 the great shame of our Government, who 
 had been so often solicited to provide 
 against it by timely succour, and which 
 they might so easily have done. This 
 is a terrible beginning of more troubles, 
 especially should an army come thence 
 into Scotland, people being generally dis- 
 affected here and every else, so that the 
 sea and land men would scarce serve with- 
 out compulsion. 
 
 A new oath was now fabricating for all 
 the clergy to take, of obedience to the 
 present Government, in abrogation of the 
 former oaths of allegiance, which it is fore- 
 seen many of the Bishops and others of the 
 clergy will not take. The penalty is to be 
 the loss of their dignity and spiritual pre- 
 ferment. This is thought to have been 
 driven on by the Presbyterians, our new 
 governors. God in mercy send us help, 
 and direct the counsels to His glory and 
 good of His Church ! 
 
 Public matters went very ill in Ireland : 
 confusion and dissension amongst our- 
 selves, stupidity, inconstancy, emulation, 
 the governors employing unskilful men in 
 
 1 [Joseph Mead, or Mede, 1586-1638, author of 
 the Clavis Apocalyptica.} 
 
416 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1689 
 
 greatest offices, no person of public spirit 
 and ability appearing, — threaten us with a 
 very sad prospect of what may be the con- 
 clusion, without God's infinite mercy. 
 
 A fight by Admiral Herbert with the 
 French, 1 he imprudently setting on them 
 in a creek as they were landing men in 
 Ireland, by which we came off with great 
 slaughter and little honour — so strangely 
 negligent and remiss were we in preparing 
 a timely and sufficient fleet The Scots 
 Commissioners offer the crown to the new 
 King and Queen on conditions. — Act of 
 Poll-money came forth, sparing none. — 
 Now appeared the Act of Indulgence for 
 the Dissenters, but not exempting them 
 paying dues to the Church of England 
 Clergy, or serving in office according to 
 law, with several other clauses. 2 — A most 
 splendid embassy from Holland to con- 
 gratulate the King and Queen on their 
 accession to the crown. 
 
 /[thjune. A solemn fast for success of 
 the fleet, etc. 
 
 6th. I dined with the Bishop of St. Asaph ; 
 Monsieur Capellus, the learned son of the 
 most learned Ludovicus, presented to him 
 his father's works, not published till now. 
 
 yt/i. I visited the Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, and staid with him till about seven 
 o'clock. He read to me the Pope's ex- 
 communication of the French King. 
 
 gth. Visited Dr. Burnet, now Bishop 
 of Sarum ; got him to let Mr. Kneller 
 draw his picture. 3 
 
 16th. King James's declaration was 
 now dispersed, offering pardon to all, if on 
 his landing, or within twenty days after, 
 they should return to their obedience. 
 
 Our fleet not yet at sea, through some 
 prodigious sloth, and men minding only 
 their present interest ; the French riding 
 masters at sea, taking many great prizes to 
 our wonderful reproach. No certain news 
 from Ireland ; various reports of Scotland ; 
 discontents at home. The King of Den- 
 
 1 [May 1, in Bantry Bay. "As they [the 
 French] came out at Bantry Bay, Herbert engaged 
 them. The wind was against him : So that it was 
 not possible for the greatest part of the Fleet to 
 come up, and enter into action : And so those who 
 engaged were forced to retire with some dis- 
 advantage " (Burnet's History of His Own Time, 
 1734, ii. 20).] 
 
 2 [The Toleration Act (1 Gul. and Mar. c. 18), 
 24th May, 1689.] 
 
 3 [Kneller's picture of Burnet is dated 1693.] 
 
 mark at last joins with the Confederates, 
 and the two Northern Powers are recon- 
 ciled. The East India Company likely to 
 be dissolved by Parliament for many 
 arbitrary actions. Oates acquitted of per- 
 jury, to all honest men's admiration. 1 
 
 20//Z. News of a Plot discovered, on 
 which divers were sent to the Tower and 
 secured. 2 
 
 1yd. An extraordinary drought, to the 
 threatening of great wants as to the fruits 
 of the earth. 
 
 %th July. I sat for my picture to Mr. 
 Kneller, for Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to 
 the Admiralty, holding my Sylva in my 
 right hand. 3 It was on his long and 
 earnest request, and is placed in his 
 library. Kneller never painted in a more 
 masterly manner. 
 
 wth. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, it 
 being his lady's wedding-day, when about 
 three in the afternoon there was an unusual 
 and violent storm of thunder, rain, and 
 wind ; many boats on the Thames were 
 overwhelmed, and such was the impetuosity 
 of the wind as to carry up the waves in 
 pillars and spouts most dreadful to behold, 
 rooting up trees and ruining some houses. 
 The Countess of Sunderland afterwards 
 told me that it extended as far as Althorp 
 at the very time, which is seventy miles 
 from London. It did no harm at Dept- 
 ford, but at Greenwich it did much 
 mischief. 
 
 16M. I went to Hampton Court about 
 business, the Council being there. A 
 great apartment and spacious garden with 
 fountains was beginning in the park at 
 the head of the canal. 4 
 
 19M. The Marshal de Schomberg 6 
 went now as General towards Ireland, to 
 the relief of Londonderry. Our fleet lie 
 
 1 ["Admiration" must here mean "astonish- 
 ment. 1 ' _ He was released from prison on the 
 prorogation of Parliament (20th August), "and 
 obtained from the King [William III.], at the 
 earnest request of his faithful Commons, a pension 
 of five pounds a week " (Seccombe's " Titus Oates," 
 in Twelve Bad Men, 1894, I 47.)-l 
 
 2 Lords Peterborough, Salisbury, Castlemaine, 
 Sir Edward Hales, and Obadiah Walker.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 382. This must have been a 
 second picture.] 
 
 4 [What is called Fountain Court and the 
 eastern frontage, was now added by Sir Christopher 
 Wren.] 
 
 5 [Armand Frederick, Duke of Schomberg, 
 1619-go. ] 
 
1689] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 417 
 
 before Brest. The Confederates passing 
 the Rhine, besiege Bonn and Mayence, to 
 obtain a passage into France. A great 
 victory got by the Muscovites, taking and 
 burning Perecop. A new rebel against 
 the Turks threatens the destruction of that 
 tyranny. All Europe in arms against 
 France, and hardly to be found in history 
 so universal a face of war. 
 
 The Convention (or Parliament as some 
 called it) sitting, exempt the Duke of 
 Hanover from the succession to the crown, 
 which they seem to confine to the present 
 new King, his wife, and Princess Anne of 
 Denmark, who is so monstrously swollen, 
 that it's doubted whether her being thought 
 with child may prove a tympany only, so 
 that the unhappy family of the Stuarts 
 seems to be extinguishing ; and then what 
 government is likely to be next set up is 
 unknown, whether regal and by election, or 
 otherwise, the Republicans and Dissenters 
 from the Church of England evidently 
 looking that way. 
 
 The Scots have now again voted down 
 Episcopacy there. — Great discontents 
 through this nation at the slow proceed- 
 ings of the King, and the incompetent 
 instruments and officers he advances to the 
 greatest and most necessary charges. 
 
 2yd August. Came to visit me Mr. 
 Firmin. 1 
 
 25M. Hitherto it has been a most 
 seasonable summer. — Londonderry relieved 
 after a brave and wonderful holding out. 2 
 
 21st September. I went to visit the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury since his suspension, 
 and was received with great kindness. — A 
 dreadful fire happened in Southwark. 
 
 2nd October. Came to visit us the 
 Marquis de Ruvigny, 3 and one Monsieur 
 le Coque, a French refugee, who left great 
 riches for his religion ; a very learned, 
 civil person : he married the sister of 
 
 1 Thomas Firmin, 1632-97. He was a man of 
 the most amiable character, and unbounded charity : 
 a great friend of Sir Robert Clayton, who, after his 
 death, erected a monument for him in a walk which 
 he had formed at Sir Robert's seat at Marden, in 
 Surrey. He was very fond of gardens, and so far 
 of a congenial spirit with Mr. Evelyn ; and though 
 Unitarian in creed, he lived in intimacy with many 
 of the most eminent clergy. His life was printed 
 in a small volume. There is more of him in 
 Manning and Bray's Surrey, vol. ii. pp. 804, 805. 
 
 2 [By Major -General Kirke on July 30 (see ante, 
 p. 415).] 3 [See ante, p. 392.] 
 
 the Duchess de la Force.— Ottoboni, a 
 Venetian Cardinal, eighty years old, made 
 Pope. 1 
 
 31st. My birthday, being now sixty- 
 nine years old. Blessed Father, who has 
 prolonged my years to this great age, and 
 given me to see so great and wonderful 
 revolutions, and preserved me amidst them 
 to this moment, accept, I beseech thee, 
 the continuance of my prayers and thankful 
 acknowledgments, and grant me grace to 
 be working out my salvation and redeem- 
 ing the time, that Thou mayst be glorified 
 by me here, and my immortal soul saved 
 whenever Thou shall call for it, to per- 
 petuate Thy praises to all eternity, in that 
 heavenly kingdom where there are no 
 more changes or vicissitudes, but rest, and 
 peace, and joy, and consummate felicity, 
 for ever. Grant this, O heavenly Father, 
 for the sake of Jesus thine only Son and 
 our Saviour. Amen ! 
 
 $th November. The Bishop of St. 
 Asaph, 2 Lord-Almoner, preached before 
 the King and Queen, the whole discourse 
 being an historical narrative of the Church 
 of England's several deliverances, especi- 
 ally that of this anniversary, signalised by 
 being also the birthday of the Prince of 
 Orange, his marriage (which was on the 
 4th), and his landing at Torbay this day. 
 There was a splendid ball and other 
 rejoicings. 
 
 10th. After a very wet season, the winter 
 came on severely. 
 
 iytA. Much wet, without frost, yet the 
 wind north and easterly. — A Convocation 
 of the Clergy meet about a reformation of 
 our Liturgy, Canons, etc., obstructed by 
 others of the clergy. 
 
 2Jtk. I went to London with my 
 family, to winter at Soho, in the great 
 square. 
 
 1689-90 : nth January. This night 
 there was a most extraordinary storm of 
 wind, accompanied with snow and sharp 
 weather ; it did great harm in many places, 
 blowing down houses, trees, etc., killing 
 many people. It began about two in the 
 morning, and lasted till five, being a kind 
 of hurricane, which mariners observe have 
 begun of late years to come northward. 
 
 1 Peter Ottoboni succeeded Innocent XI. as 
 Pope, October 6, 1689, by the title of Alexander 
 VIII. 2 [Dr. Lloyd.] 
 
 2 E 
 
4i8 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1690 
 
 This winter has been hitherto extremely 
 wet, warm, and windy. 
 
 12th January. There was read at St. 
 Ann's Church an exhortatory letter to the 
 clergy of London from the Bishop, together 
 with a Brief for relieving the distressed 
 Protestants, the Vaudois, who fled from 
 the persecution of the French and Duke 
 of Savoy, to the Protestant Cantons of 
 Switzerland. 
 
 The Parliament was unexpectedly pro- 
 rogued to 2nd April, to the discontent and 
 surprise of many members who, being 
 exceeding averse to the settling of anything, 
 proceeding with animosities, multiplying 
 exceptions against those whom they pro- 
 nounced obnoxious, and producing as 
 universal a discontent against King William 
 and themselves, as there was before against 
 King James. — The new King resolved on 
 an expedition into Ireland in person. 
 About 150 of the members who were of 
 the more royal party, meeting at a feast at 
 the Apollo Tavern near St. Dunstan's, 1 
 sent some of their company to the King, 
 to assure him of their service ; he returned 
 his thanks, advising them to repair to their 
 several counties and preserve the peace 
 during his absence, and assuring them that 
 he would be steady to his resolution of 
 defending the Laws and Religion estab- 
 lished. — The great Lord suspected to have 
 counselled this prorogation, universally 
 denied it. However, it was believed the 
 chief adviser was the Marquis of ' Car- 
 marthen, 2 who now seemed to be most in 
 favour. 
 
 2nd February. The Parliament was 
 dissolved by proclamation, and another 
 called to meet the 20th of March. This 
 was a second surprise to the former 
 members ; and now the Court-party, or, 
 as they call themselves, Church of England, 
 are making their interests in the country. 
 The Marquis of Halifax 3 lays down his 
 office of Privy Seal, and pretends to retire. 
 
 16///. The Duchess of Monmouth's 
 
 1 [The Apollo, or Devil Tavern, which once 
 stood between Temple Bar and the Middle Temple 
 Gate. The Royal Society sometimes adjourned to 
 it after meeting at Arundel House (cf. Pepys' 
 Diary , 22nd October, 1668).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 157. Danby had been made 
 Marquis of Carmarthen in 1689.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 224. The Marquis of Halifax 
 was Lord Privy Seal, 16S9-90.] 
 
 chaplain preached at St. Martin's an 
 excellent discourse, exhorting to peace and 
 sanctity, it being now the time of very 
 great division and dissension in the nation ; 
 first, amongst the Churchmen, of whom 
 the moderate and sober part were for a 
 speedy reformation of divers things, which 
 it was thought might be made in our 
 Liturgy, for the inviting of Dissenters ; 
 others more stiff and rigid, were for no 
 condescension at all. Books and pamphlets 
 were published every day pro and con. ; 
 the Convocation were forced for the present 
 to suspend any further progress. — There 
 was fierce and great carousing about being 
 elected in the new Parliament. — The King 
 persists in his intention of going in person 
 for Ireland, whither the French are sending 
 supplies to King James, and we, the Danish 
 horse to Schomberg. 
 
 19th. I dined with the Marquis of 
 Carmarthen (late Lord Danby), where was 
 Lieutenant-General Douglas, a very con- 
 siderate and sober commander, going for 
 Ireland. He related to us the exceeding 
 neglect of the English soldiers, suffering 
 severely for want of clothes and necessaries 
 this winter, exceedingly magnifying their 
 courage and bravery during all their hard- 
 ships. There dined also Lord Lucas, 
 Lieutenant of the Tower, and the Bishop 
 of St. Asaph. — The Privy Seal was again 
 put in commission, Mr. Cheyne 1 (who 
 married my kinswoman, Mrs. Pierrepont), 
 Sir Thomas Knatchbull, and Sir P. W. 
 Pulteney. — The imprudence of both sexes 
 was now become so great and universal, 
 persons of all ranks keeping their courtesans 
 publicly, that the King had lately directed 
 a letter to the Bishops to order their clergy 
 to preach against that sin, swearing, etc., 
 and to put the ecclesiastical laws in 
 execution without any indulgence. 
 
 25^/z. I went to Kensington, 2 which 
 King William had bought of Lord 
 Nottingham, and altered, but was yet a 
 patched building, but with the garden, 
 however, it is a very sweet villa, having to 
 
 1 [Son of Charles Lord Viscount Cheyne, d. 1698 
 (see/>ost, under 13th May, 1692).] 
 
 2 [King William fixed upon Kensington because, 
 being obliged to select a residence near London, he 
 could at any time ride readily to his country house 
 at Hampton. He bought it of the second Earl of 
 Nottingham for 18,000 guineas, and had it altered 
 by Wren, who added the higher story.] 
 
i6go] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 419 
 
 it the park and a straight new way through 
 this park. 
 
 -]th March. I dined with Mr. Pepys, 
 late Secretary to the Admiralty, where 
 was that excellent shipwright and seaman 
 (for so he had been, and also a Com- 
 missioner of the Navy), Sir Anthony 
 Deane. 1 Amongst other discourse, and 
 deploring the sad condition of our navy, as 
 now governed by inexperienced men since 
 this Revolution, he mentioned what ex- 
 ceeding advantage we of this nation had 
 by being the first who built frigates, the 
 first of which ever built was that vessel 
 which was afterwards called the Constant 
 Warwick, and was the work of Pett 2 of 
 Chatham, for a trial of making a vessel 
 that would sail swiftly ; it was built with 
 low decks, the guns lying near the water, 
 and was so light and swift of sailing, that 
 in a short time he told us she had, ere the 
 Dutch war was ended, taken as much 
 money from privateers as would have laden 
 her ; and that more such being built, did 
 in a year or two scour the Channel from 
 those of Dunkirk and others which had 
 exceedingly infested it. He added that it 
 would be the best and only infallible ex- 
 pedient to be masters of the sea, and able 
 to destroy the greatest navy of any enemy 
 if, instead of building huge great ships and 
 second and third rates, they would leave off 
 building such high decks, which were for 
 nothing but to gratify gentlemen - com - 
 manders, who must have all their effeminate 
 accommodations, and for pomp ; that it 
 would be the ruin of our fleets, if such 
 persons were continued in command, they 
 neither having experience nor being capable 
 of learning, because they would not submit 
 to the fatigue and inconvenience which 
 those who were bred seamen would undergo, 
 in those so otherwise useful swift frigates. 
 These being to encounter the greatest 
 ships would be able to protect, set on, and 
 bring off, those who should manage the 
 fire-ships ; and the Prince who should first 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 339.] 
 
 2 [Peter Pett (see ante, p. 11). : ' The Con- 
 stant Warwick, says Pepys, was the first frigate 
 built in England. She was built in 1649 by Mr. 
 Peter Pett for a privateer for the Earl of Warwick, 
 and was sold by him to the States. Mr. Pett took 
 his model of a frigate from a French frigate, which 
 he had seen in the Thames, as his son Sir Phinehas 
 Pett acknowledged to me " (Dews' Dept/ord, 1884, 
 pp. 220-21).] 
 
 store himself with numbers of such fire- 
 ships would, through the help and counten- 
 ance of such frigates, be able to ruin the 
 greatest force of such vast ships as could be 
 sent to sea, by the dexterity of working 
 those light, swift ships to guard the fire- 
 ships. He concluded there would shortly 
 be no other method of sea-fight ; and that 
 great ships and men-of-war, however stored 
 with guns and men, must submit to those 
 who should encounter them with far less 
 number. He represented to us the dreadful 
 effect of these fire-ships.; that he continually 
 observed in our late maritime war with the 
 Dutch that, when an enemy's fire-ship 
 approached, the most valiant commander 
 and common sailors were in such consterna- 
 tion, that though then, of all times, there 
 was most need of the guns, bombs, etc., 
 to keep the mischief off, they grew pale 
 and astonished, as if of a quite other mean 
 soul, that they slunk about, forsook their 
 guns and work as if in despair, every one 
 looking about to see which way they might 
 get out of their ship, though sure to be 
 drowned if they did so. This he said was 
 likely to prove hereafter the method of sea- 
 fight, likely to be the misfortune of England 
 if they continued to put gentlemen- 
 commanders over experienced seamen, on 
 account of their ignorance, effeminacy, and 
 insolence. 
 
 gth March. Preached at Whitehall Dr. 
 Burnet, late Bishop of Sarum, 1 on Heb. iv. 
 13, anatomically describing the texture of." 
 the eye; and that, as it received such; 
 innumerable sorts of spies through so very- 
 small a passage to the brain, and that 
 without the least confusion or trouble, and, 
 accordingly judged and reflected on them ; . 
 so God who made this sensory, did with 
 the greatest ease and at once see all] that 
 was done through the vast universe, even 
 to the very thought as well as action. 
 This similitude he continued with much 
 perspicuity and aptness ; and applied it 
 accordingly, for the admonishing us how 
 uprightly we ought to live apd , behave 
 ourselves before such an all-seeing Deity ; 
 and how we were to conceive of other His , 
 attributes, which we could have no idea of 
 than .by comparing them by what we were 
 
 1 [He was Bishop of Salisbury until his death ; ; 
 Evelyn must mean that he had lately been made ■ 
 Bishop (1689).] 
 
420 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1690 
 
 able to conceive of the nature and power of 
 things, which were the objects of our senses ; 
 and therefore it was that in Scripture we 
 attribute those actions and affections of 
 God by the same of man, not as adequately 
 or in any proportion like them, but as the 
 only expedient to make some resemblance 
 of His divine perfections ; as when the 
 Scripture says, "God will remember the 
 sins of the penitent no more" : not as if 
 God could forget anything, but as intimat- 
 ing he would pass by such penitents and 
 receive them to mercy. 
 
 I dined at the Bishop of St. Asaph's, 
 Almoner to the new Queen, with the famous 
 lawyer Sir George Mackenzie (late Lord- 
 Advocate of Scotland), against whom both 
 the Bishop and myself had written and 
 published books, but now most friendly 
 reconciled. 1 He related to us many 
 particulars of Scotland, the present sad 
 condition of it, the inveterate hatred which 
 the Presbyterians show to the family of the 
 Stuarts, and the exceeding tyranny of those 
 bigots who acknowledge no superior on 
 earth, in civil or divine matters, maintaining 
 that the people only have the right of 
 government ; their implacable hatred to 
 the Episcopal Order and Church of England. 
 He observed that the first Presbyter- 
 dissents from our discipline were introduced 
 by the Jesuits' order, about the 20 of Queen 
 Eliz. , a famous Jesuit amongst them 
 feigning himself a Protestant, and who 
 was the first who began to pray extempore, 
 and brought in that which they since called, 
 and are still so fond of, praying by the 
 Spirit. This Jesuit remained many years 
 before he was discovered, afterwards died 
 in Scotland, where he was buried at . . . 
 having yet on his monument, " Rosa inter 
 spinas" 
 
 nth March. I went again to see Mr. 
 Charlton's curiosities, 2 both of art and nature, 
 and his full and rare collection of medals, 
 which taken altogether, in all kinds, is 
 doubtless one of the most perfect assem- 
 blages of rarities that can be anywhere seen. 
 I much admired the contortions of the Thea 
 root, which was so perplexed, large, and 
 
 1 Sir George, as we have seen, had written in 
 praise of a private Life, which Mr. Evelyn answered 
 by a book in praise of Public Employment, and an 
 Active Life (see ante, p. 254). 
 
 2 See ante, p. 395. 
 
 intricate, and withal hard as box, that it 
 was wonderful to consider. — The French 
 have landed in Ireland. 1 
 
 16th. A public fast. 
 
 24th May. City charter restored. 2 
 Divers exempted from pardon. 
 
 4M June. King William set forth on 
 his Irish expedition, leaving the Queen 
 regent. 
 
 \oth. Mr. Pepys read to me his Re- 
 monstrance, showing with what malice and 
 injustice he was suspected with Sir Anthony 
 Deane about the timber, of which the 
 thirty ships were built by a late Act of 
 Parliament, 3 with the exceeding danger 
 which the fleet would shortly be in, by 
 reason of the tyranny and incompetency of 
 those who now managed the Admiralty 
 and affairs of the Navy, of which he gave 
 an accurate state, and showed his great 
 ability. 
 
 18M. Fast day. Visited the Bishop of 
 St. Asaph ; his conversation was on the 
 Vaudois in Savoy, who had been thought 
 so near destruction and final extirpation 
 by the French, being totally given up to 
 slaughter, so that there were no hopes for 
 them ; but now it pleased God that the 
 Duke of Savoy, who had hitherto joined 
 with the French in their persecution, being 
 now pressed by them to deliver up Saluzzo 
 and Turin as cautionary towns, on 
 suspicion that he might at last come into 
 the Confederacy of the German Princes, 
 did secretly concert measures with, and 
 afterwards declared for, them. He then 
 invited these poor people from their 
 dispersion amongst the mountains whither 
 they had fled, and restored them to their 
 country, their dwellings, and the exercise 
 of their religion, and begged pardon for the 
 ill-usage they had received, charging it on 
 the cruelty of the French who forced him 
 to it. These being the remainder of those 
 persecuted Christians which the Bishop of 
 St. Asaph had so long affirmed to be the 
 two witnesses spoken of in the Revelation, 
 who should be killed and brought to life 
 
 1 [Under the Duke de Lauzun.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 347.] 
 
 3 [There is much about these thirty ships in 
 Pepys' Memoires Relating to the State of tlte 
 Royal Navy oj England \ 1690, of which a reprint, 
 with a Preface by Dr. Tanner, has recently been 
 added to the "Tudor and Stuart Library' 
 (Clarendon Press).] 
 
1690] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 421 
 
 again, it was looked on as an extraordinary 
 thing that this prophesying Bishop should 
 persuade two fugitive ministers of the 
 Vaudois 1 to return to their country, and 
 furnish them with £10 towards their 
 journey, at that very time when nothing 
 but universal destruction was to be ex- 
 pected, assuring them and showing them 
 from the Apocalypse, that their countrymen 
 should be returned safely to their country 
 before they arrived. This happening 
 contrary to all expectation and appearance, 
 did exceedingly credit the Bishop's con- 
 fidence how that prophecy of the witnesses 
 should come to pass, just at the time, and 
 the very month, he had spoken of some 
 years before. 
 
 I afterwards went with him to Mr. Boyle 
 and Lady Ranelagh his sister, to whom he 
 explained the necessity of it so fully, and 
 so learnedly made out, with what events 
 were immediately to follow, viz. the 
 French King's ruin, the calling of the 
 Jews to be near at hand, but that the 
 Kingdom of Antichrist would not yet be 
 utterly destroyed till 30 years, when Christ 
 should begin the Millennium, not as per- 
 sonally and visibly reigning on earth, but 
 that the true religion and universal peace 
 should obtain through all the world. He 
 showed how Mr. Brightman, 2 Mr. Mede, 3 
 and other interpreters of these events 
 failed, by mistaking and reckoning the 
 year as the Latins and others did, to con- 
 sist of the present calculation, so many 
 days to the year, whereas the Apocalypse 
 reckons after the Persian account, as 
 Daniel did, whose visions St. John all 
 along explains as meaning only the Chris- 
 tian Church. 
 
 2.4th June. Dined with Mr. Pepys, who 
 the next day was sent to the Gate-house, 4 
 and several great persons to the Tower, 
 on suspicion of being affected to King 
 
 1 See ante, p. 415. 
 
 2 [Thomas Brightman, 1 562-1607. He wrote a 
 treatise on the Apocalypse, which was published 
 after his death.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 415.] 
 
 4 Pepys had already undergone an imprison- 
 ment, with perhaps just as much reason as the 
 present, on the absurd accusation of having sent 
 information to the French Court of the state of the 
 English navy (see ante, p. 318). [On this occasion, 
 he found bail, and was soon permitted to return 
 home on account of ill -health (see infra, 30th 
 July).] 
 
 James ; amongst them was the Earl of 
 Clarendon, the Queen's uncle. King 
 William having vanquished King James 
 in Ireland, 1 there was much public re- 
 joicing. It seems the Irish in King James's 
 army would not stand, but the English- 
 Irish and French made great resistance. 
 Schomberg was slain, and Dr. Walker, 
 who so bravely defended Londonderry. 2 
 King William received a slight wound by 
 the grazing of a cannon bullet on his 
 shoulder, which he endured with very 
 iittle interruption of his pursuit. Hamil- 
 ton, who broke his word about Tyrconnel, 
 was taken. 3 It is reported that King 
 James is gone back to France. 4 Drog- 
 heda and Dublin surrendered, and if King 
 William be returning, we may say of him 
 as Caesar said, "Veni^ victim vici." But to 
 alloy much of this, the French fleet rides 
 in our channel, ours not daring to in- 
 terpose, and the enemy threatening to 
 land. 
 
 2jth. I went to some friends in the 
 Tower, when asking for Lord Clarendon, 5 
 they by mistake directed me to the Eari of 
 Torrington, 6 who about three days before 
 had been sent for from the fleet, and put 
 into the Tower for cowardice and not 
 fighting the French fleet, which having 
 beaten a squadron of the Hollanders, 
 whilst Torrington did nothing, did now 
 ride masters of the sea, threatening a 
 descent. 
 
 20th July. This afternoon a camp of 
 
 1 [At the Battle of the Boyne, July x.] 
 
 2 George Walker, 1618-90, an Irish clergyman, 
 who, after successfully defending Protestant Lon- 
 donderry against the Popish army under James II., 
 accompanied William III. during his decisive 
 campaign. He published a narrative of the Siege 
 of Deny. 
 
 «* [General Richard Hamilton. He had been 
 despatched by William III. with offers to the Irish 
 Catholics, and deserted to Tyrconnel (Burnet, 
 History of His Own Time, 1723, i. p. 808). He 
 was captured at the Battle of the Boyne, sent to 
 the Tower, and afterwards rejoined James in 
 France.] 
 
 4 [He embarked at Waterford for that country.] 
 
 5 [See above 24th June.] 
 
 6 Admiral Arthur Herbert, 1647-1716, grandson 
 of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Cherbury. In 
 1689, William raised him to the Peerage for his 
 eminent naval services, with the titles of Baron 
 Torbay and Earl of Torrington ; but not succeed- 
 ing against the French fleet near Beachy Head, he 
 was sent to the Tower, tried by a Court-martial, and, 
 though acquitted, never again employed (see ante, 
 pp. 400 and 416). 
 
422 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1690 
 
 about 4000 men was begun to be formed 
 on Blackheath. 
 
 yith July. I dined with Mr. Pepys, now 
 suffered to return to his house, 1 on account 
 of indisposition. 
 
 1st August. The Duke of Grafton 2 
 came to visit me, going to his ship at the 
 mouth of the river, in his way to Ireland 
 (where he was slain). 
 
 yd. The French landed some soldiers 
 at Teignmouth, 3 in Devon, and burned 
 some poor houses. — The French fleet still 
 hovering about the western coast, and we 
 having 300 sail of rich merchant-ships in 
 the bay of Plymouth, our fleet begin to 
 move towards them, under three admirals. 
 The country in the west all on their guard. 
 — A very extraordinary fine season ; but 
 on the 1 2th was a very great storm of 
 thunder and lightning, and on the 15th 
 the season much changed to wet and cold. 
 — The militia and trained bands, horse 
 and foot, which were up through England, 
 were dismissed. — The French King having 
 news that King William was slain, and 
 his army defeated in Ireland, caused such 
 a triumph at Paris, and all over France, 
 as was never heard of; when, in the midst 
 of it, the unhappy King James being van- 
 quished, by a speedy flight and escape, 
 himself brought the news of his own defeat. 
 
 15M. I was desired to be one of the 
 bail of the Earl of Clarendon, 4 for his 
 release from the Tower, with divers noble- 
 men. The Bishop of St. Asaph expounds 
 his prophecies to me and Mr. Pepys, etc. 
 The troops from Blackheath march to 
 Portsmouth. — That sweet and hopeful 
 youth, Sir Charles Tuke, 5 died of the 
 wounds he received in the fight of the 
 Boyne, to the great sorrow of all his 
 friends, being (I think) the last male of 
 that family, to which my wife is related. 
 A more virtuous young gentleman I never 
 knew ; he was learned for his age, having 
 
 1 [In York Buildings — "to the care (says Pro- 
 fessor Gregory Smith) of Mrs. Fane, his estimable 
 but bitter -tongued housekeeper" (Globe Pepys, 
 1905, xxii.).] 
 
 2 Henry Fitzroy, second natural son of Charles II. 
 by the Duchess of Cleveland (see ante, p. 288). 
 The Duke, who was a volunteer, was mortally 
 wounded in the assault at the siege of Cork by 
 Marlborough in September (see post, under 12th 
 October). 3 [July 23.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 421. He was released August 15.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 279.] 
 
 had the advantage of the choicest breeding 
 abroad, both as to arts and arms ; he had 
 travelled much, but was so unhappy as to 
 fall in the side of the unfortunate King. 
 
 The unseasonable and most tempestuous 
 weather happening, the naval expedition 
 is hindered, and the extremity of wet 
 causes the siege of Limerick to be raised, 1 
 King William returned to England. — Lord 
 Sidney 2 left Governor of what is con- 
 quered in Ireland, which is near in three 
 parts [in four]. 
 
 iyt/i. A public fast. — An extraordinary 
 sharp, cold, east wind. 
 
 12M October. The French General, with 
 Tyrconnel and their forces, gone back to 
 France, beaten out by King William. — 
 Cork delivered on discretion. 3 The Duke 
 of Grafton was there mortally wounded 
 and dies. 4 — Very great storms of wind. 
 The 8th of this month Lord Spencer wrote 
 me word from Althorp, that there hap- 
 pened an earthquake the day before in the 
 morning, which, though short, sensibly, 
 shook the house. The Gazette acquainted 
 us that the like happened at the same 
 time, half-past seven, at Barnstaple, Holy- 
 head, and Dublin. We were not sensible 
 of it here. 
 
 26th. Kinsale at last surrendered, 5 
 meantime King James's party burn all the 
 houses they have in their power, and 
 amongst them that stately palace of Lord 
 Ossory's, which lately cost, as reported, 
 ^40, 000. By a disastrous accident, a 
 third-rate ship, the Breda, blew up and 
 destroyed all on board ; in it were twenty- 
 five prisoners of war. She was to have 
 sailed for England the next day. 
 
 yd Nove?nber. Went to the Countess 
 of Clancarty, 6 to condole with her con- 
 cerning her debauched and dissolute son, 
 who had done so much mischief in Ireland, 
 now taken and brought prisoner to the 
 Tower. 
 
 1 [On August 30.] 
 
 2 Henry Sidney, 1641-1704, youngest brother of 
 Robert, second Earl of Leicester ; created in 1689 
 Viscount Sidney, and in 1694 Earl of Romney. 
 
 3 [September 28.] 
 
 4 [See ante, under 1st August. He died 
 October 9.] & [On October 5.] 
 
 6 Elizabeth Fitzgerald, daughter of the Earl of 
 Kildare. Her son, the third Earl ? for the services 
 he had rendered James II., forfeited in the reign 
 of his successor the whole of his vast estates (see 
 ante, p. 405). 
 
[1691 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 423 
 
 1 6th November. Exceeding great storms, 
 yet a warm season. 
 
 2.yd. Carried Mr. Pepys's memorials 
 to Lord Godolphin, now resuming the 
 commission of the Treasury to the wonder 
 of all his friends. 
 
 1st December. Having been chosen 
 President of the Royal Society, I desired 
 to decline it, and with great difficulty 
 devolved the election on Sir Robert South- 
 well, Secretary of State to King William 
 in Ireland. 1 
 
 2.0th. Dr. Hough, 2 President of Mag- 
 dalen College, Oxford, who was displaced 
 with several of the Fellows for not taking 
 the oath imposed by King James, now 
 made a Bishop. — Most of this month cold 
 and frost. — One Johnson, a Knight, was 
 executed at Tyburn for being an accom- 
 plice with Campbell, brother to Lord 
 Argyll, in stealing a young heiress. 
 
 1 690- 1 : qth January. This week a 
 plot was discovered for a general rising 
 against the new Government, for which 
 (Henry) Lord Clarendon and others were 
 sent to the Tower. The next day, I went 
 to see Lord Clarendon. 3 The Bishop of 
 Ely 4 searched for. — Trial of Lord Preston, 
 as not being an English Peer, hastened at 
 the Old Bailey. 
 
 iSt/i. Lord Preston condemned about 
 a design to bring in King James by the 
 French. 5 Ashton executed. 6 The Bishop 
 of Ely, Mr. Graham, 7 etc. , absconded. 
 
 13M March. I went to visit Monsieur 
 Justel 8 and the library at St. James's, in 
 which that learned man had put the MSS. 
 (which were in good number) into excel- 
 lent order, they having lain neglected for 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 209.] 
 
 2 Dr. John Hough, 1651-1743. In 1659, he was 
 translated to Lichfield and Coventry; in 1717, he 
 became Bishop of Worcester, which he held until 
 his death. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 422.] 
 
 4 Dr. Turner, who, though one of the six 
 Bishops sent to the Tower for the petition to 
 the King, had declined taking the oaths to William 
 and Mary. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 397. He had been formerly 
 Secretary of State in succession to Sunderland, 
 ante, p. 407. He was supposed to have saved 
 himself by important disclosures.] 
 
 C [John Ashton, Clerk of the Closet to Mary of 
 Modena, was hanged at Tyburn, January 28, for 
 conspiring to restore James II.] 
 
 7 [See/>ost, under 6th April, 1696.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 356.] 
 
 many years. Divers medals had been 
 stolen and embezzled. 
 
 2 1 st. Dined at Sir William Fermor's, 1 
 who showed me many good pictures. 
 After dinner, a French servant played 
 rarely on the lute. Sir William had now 
 bought all the remaining statues collected 
 with so much expense by the famous 
 Thomas, Earl of Arundel, and sent them 
 to his seat at Easton, near Towcester. 2 
 
 2$th. Lord Sidney, principal Secretary 
 of State, gave me a letter to Lord Lucas, 
 Lieutenant of the Tower, to permit me to 
 visit Lord Clarendon ; which this day I 
 did, and dined with him. 3 
 
 10th April. This night a sudden and 
 terrible fire burnt down all the buildings 
 over the stone-gallery at Whitehall to the 
 water-side, beginning at the apartment of 
 the late Duchess of Portsmouth (which 
 had been pulled down and rebuilt no less 
 than three times to please her), and con- 
 suming other lodgings of such lewd 
 creatures, who debauched both King 
 Charles II. and others, and were his de- 
 struction. 4 
 
 The King returned out of Holland just 
 as this accident happened. — Proclamation 
 against Papists, etc. 
 
 16th. I went to see Dr. Sloane's curi- 
 osities, 5 being a universal collection of the 
 natural productions of Jamaica, consisting 
 of plants, fruits, corals, minerals, stones, 
 earth, shells, animals, and insects, col- 
 lected with great judgment ; several folios 
 of dried plants, and one which had about 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 318.] 
 
 2 They are now at Oxford, having been pre- 
 sented to the University in 1755 by Henrietta, 
 Countess-Dowager of Pomfret, widow of Thomas, 
 the first Earl. 
 
 3 [See ante, under 4th January.] 
 
 4 [In Sir John Bramston's Autobiography (Cam- 
 den Society), 1845, p. 365, this is confirmed. "On 
 the 9th of Aprill [1691] a fier hapned in White Hall 
 which burnt downe the fine lodgeings built for the 
 Dutches of Portsmouth at the end of the longe 
 gallery, and severall lodgeings, and that gallerie " 
 (see ante, p. 302).] 
 
 5 Dr. Sloane, 1660-1753, better known as Sir 
 Hans Sloane, having been created a Baronet by 
 George I., was an eminent physician and natural- 
 ist, Physician-general to the Army, Physician in 
 Ordinary to the King, and in 1727-41 President of 
 the Royal Society. [He wrote a Natural History 
 of Jamaica, 1707-1735.] His monument may be 
 seen in the churchyard of St. Luke's, Chelsea, 
 near the river. His extensive museum and library 
 were purchased for ,£20,000, and transferred to the 
 British Museum. 
 
424 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1691 
 
 80 several sorts of ferns, and another of 
 grasses ; the Jamaica pepper, in branch, 
 leaves, flower, fruit, etc. This collection, 
 with his Journal and other philosophical and 
 natural discourses and observations, indeed 
 very copious and extraordinary, sufficient 
 to furnish a history of that island, to which 
 I encouraged him. 
 
 lgtk April. The Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, and Bishops of Ely, Bath and Wells, 
 Peterborough, Gloucester, and the rest 
 who would not take the oaths to King 
 William, were now displaced ; and, in 
 their rooms, Dr. Tillotson, Dean of 
 St. Paul's, was made Archbishop j 1 Patrick 
 removed from Chichester to Ely ; 2 Cum- 
 berland 3 to Gloucester. 
 
 22nd. I dined with Lord Clarendon in 
 the Tower. 
 
 24th. I visited the Earl and Countess 
 of Sunderland, now come to kiss the 
 King's hand, after his return from Holland. 
 This is a mystery. The King preparing 
 to return to the army. 
 
 Jt/i May. I went to visit the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury [Sancroft] yet at 
 Lambeth. I found him alone, and dis- 
 coursing of the times, especially of the 
 new designed Bishops ; he told me that 
 by no canon or divine law they could justify 
 the removing the present incumbents ; that 
 Dr. Beveridge, designed Bishop of Bath 
 and Wells, came to ask his advice ; that 
 the Archbishop told him, though he should 
 give it, he believed he would not take it ; 
 the Doctor said he would ; why then, says 
 the Archbishop, when they come to ask, 
 say Nolo, and say it from the heart ; there 
 is nothing easier than to resolve yourself 
 what is to be done in the case : the Doctor 
 seemed to deliberate. What he will do I 
 know not, but Bishop Ken, who is to be 
 put out, is exceedingly beloved in his 
 diocese ; and, if he and the rest should 
 insist on it, and plead their interests as 
 freeholders, it is believed there would be 
 difficulty in their case, and it may endanger 
 a schism and much disturbance, so as wise 
 men think it had been better to have let 
 them alone, than to have proceeded with 
 
 1 [31st May.] 2 [2nd July.] 
 
 3 A mistake. Dr. Edward Fowler, prebendary 
 of Gloucester, was made Bishop of Gloucester in 
 the place of Dr. Robert Frampton, deprived in 
 1 691 for not taking the oaths. 
 
 this rigour to turn them out for refusing to 
 swear against their consciences. I asked 
 at parting, when his Grace removed ; he 
 said that he had not yet received any 
 summons, but I found the house altogether 
 disfurnished, and his books packing up. 
 
 1st June. I went with my son, and 
 brother-in-law, Glanville, 1 and his son to 
 Wotton, to solemnise the funeral of my 
 nephew, 2 which was performed the next 
 day very decently and orderly by the herald, 
 in the afternoon, a very great appearance of 
 the country being there. I was the chief 
 mourner ; the pall was held by Sir Francis 
 Vincent, Sir Richard Onslow, Mr. Thomas 
 Howard (son to Sir Robert, and Captain of 
 the King's Guard), Mr. Hildeyard, Mr. 
 James, Mr. Herbert, nephew to Lord 
 Herbert of Cherbury, and cousin-german 
 to my deceased nephew. He was laid in 
 the vault at Wotton church, in the burying- 
 place of the family. A great concourse 
 of coaches and people accompanied the 
 solemnity. 
 
 \oth. I went to visit Lord Clarendon, 
 still prisoner in the Tower, though Lord 
 Preston being pardoned was released. 8 
 
 17th. A fast. 
 
 nth July. I dined with Mr. Pepys, 
 where was Dr. Cumberland, the new 
 Bishop of Norwich, 4 Dr. Lloyd having 
 been put out for not acknowledging the 
 Government. Cumberland is a very learned, 
 excellent man. — Possession was now given 
 to Dr. Tillotson, at Lambeth, by the 
 Sheriff; Archbishop Sancroft was gone, 
 but had left his nephew to keep possession ; 
 and he refusing to deliver it up on the 
 Queen's message, was dispossessed by the 
 Sheriff, and imprisoned. This stout de- 
 meanour of the few Bishops who refused 
 to take the oaths to King William, animated 
 a great party to forsake the churches, so as 
 to threaten a schism ; though those who 
 looked further into the ancient practice, 
 found that when (as formerly) there were 
 
 1 [William Glanville, husband of Evelyn's sister 
 Jane (see ante, p. 145 ; andJ>ost, under izth April, 
 1702).] 
 
 2 [John Evelyn, the son of George Evelyn of 
 Wotton.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 423."] 
 
 * A mistake. Dr. Richard Cumberland, rector 
 of All Saints, Stamford, was made Bishop of Peter- 
 borough, 5th July, and Dr. John Moore, prebendary 
 of Norwich, succeeded Dr. Lloyd in the see of 
 Norwich. 
 
1691] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 425 
 
 Bishops displaced on secular accounts, the 
 people never refused to acknowledge the new 
 Bishops provided they were not heretics. 
 The truth is, the whole clergy had till now 
 stretched the duty of passive obedience, so 
 that the proceedings against these Bishops 
 gave no little occasion of exceptions ; but 
 this not amounting to heresy, there was a 
 necessity of receiving the new Bishops, to 
 prevent a failure of that order in the Church. 
 — I went to visit Lord Clarendon in the 
 Tower, but he was gone into the country 
 for air by the Queen's permission, under 
 the care of his warden. 
 
 i8tA July. To London to hear Mr. 
 Stringfellow preach his first sermon in the 
 new-erected church of Trinity, in Conduit 
 Street ; to which I did recommend him to 
 Dr. Tenison for the constant preacher and 
 lecturer. This church, formerly built- of 
 timber on Hounslow Heath by King James 
 for the mass-priests, being begged by Dr. 
 Tenison, rector of St. Martin's, was set up 
 by that public - minded, charitable, and 
 pious man near my son's dwelling in Dover 
 Street, chiefly at the charge of the Doctor. 
 I know him to be an excellent preacher and 
 a fit person. This church, though erected 
 in St. Martin's, which is the Doctor's 
 parish, he was not only content, but was 
 the sole industrious mover, that it should 
 be made a separate parish, in regard of the 
 neighbourhood having become so populous. 
 Wherefore to countenance and introduce 
 the new minister, and take possession of 
 a gallery designed for my son's family, I 
 went to London, where, 
 
 19M, in the morning Dr. Tenison preached 
 the first sermon, taking his text from Psalm 
 xxvi. 8 : " Lord, I have loved the habita- 
 tion of thy house, and the place where 
 thine honour dwelleth." In concluding, 
 he gave that this should be made a parish- 
 church so soon as the Parliament sate, and 
 was to be dedicated to the Holy Trinity, 1 
 in honour of the three undivided Persons 
 in the Deity ; and he minded them to 
 attend to that faith of the Church, now 
 
 1 This was never made a parish church, but still 
 remains a chapel, and is private property. But, 
 under the Act for building fifty new churches, one 
 was built in the street between Conduit Street and 
 Hanover Square, the first stone being laid 20th June, 
 1712 ; it was dedicated to St. George, and part of 
 St. Martin's was made a separate parish, now called 
 St. George's, Hanover Square. 
 
 especially that Arianism, Socinianism, and 
 Atheism began to spread amongst us. — In 
 the afternoon, Mr. Stringfellow preached 
 on Luke vii. 5, "The centurion who had 
 built a synagogue." He proceeded to the 
 due praise of persons of such public spirit, 
 and thence to such a character of pious 
 benefactors in the person of the generous 
 centurion, as was comprehensive of all the 
 virtues of an accomplished Christian, in a 
 style so full, eloquent, and moving, that I 
 never heard a sermon more apposite to the 
 occasion. He modestly insinuated the 
 obligation they had to that person who 
 should be the author and promoter of such 
 public works for the benefit of mankind, 
 especially to the advantage of religion, 
 such as building and endowing churches, 
 hospitals, libraries, schools, procuring the 
 best editions of useful books, by which he 
 handsomely intimated who it was that had 
 been so exemplary for his benefaction to 
 that place. Indeed, that excellent person, 
 Dr. Tenison, had also erected and furnished 
 a public library 1 [in St. Martin's]; and 
 set up two or three free-schools at his own 
 charges. Besides this, he was of an ex- 
 emplary holy life, took great pains in con- 
 stantly preaching, and incessantly employ- 
 ing himself to promote the service of God 
 both in public and private. I never knew 
 a man of a more universal and generous 
 spirit, with so much modesty, prudence, 
 and piety. 
 
 The great victory of King William's 
 army in Ireland was looked on as decisive 
 of that war. 2 The French General, St. 
 Ruth, who had been so cruel to the poor 
 Protestants in France, was slain, with 
 divers of the best commanders ; nor was it 
 cheap to us, having 1000 killed, but of the 
 enemy 4 or 5000. 
 
 26th. An extraordinary hot season, yet 
 refreshed by some thunder-showers. 
 
 2%th. I went to Wotton. 
 
 2nd Atigust. No sermon in the church 
 in the afternoon, and the curacy ill-served. 
 
 \6tk. A sermon by the curate ; an 
 honest discourse, but read without any 
 spirit, or seeming concern ; a great fault 
 in the education of young preachers. — 
 Great thunder and lightning on Thursday. 
 
 1 See ante, p. 357. 
 
 2 [The Battle of Aghrim, July 12, in which Godart 
 van Ginkell defeated St. Ruth.] 
 
420 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1692 
 
 but the rain and wind very violent. — Our 
 fleet come in to lay up the great ships ; 
 nothing done at sea, pretending that we 
 cannot meet the French. 
 
 13//2 September. A great storm at sea ; 
 we lost the Coronation and Harwich, above 
 600 men perishing. 
 
 14//1 October. A most pleasing autumn. 
 Our navy come in without having per- 
 formed anything, yet there has been great 
 loss of ships by negligence, and unskilful 
 men governing the .fleet and Navy-board. 
 
 yth November. I visited the Earl of 
 Dover, 1 who, having made his peace with 
 the King, was now come home. The 
 relation he gave of the strength of the 
 French King, and the difficulty of our 
 forcing him to fight, and any way making 
 impression into France, was very wide from 
 what we fancied. 
 
 8t/i — 30M. An extraordinary dry and 
 warm season, without frost, and like a new 
 spring ; such as had not been known for 
 many years. Part of the King's house at 
 Kensington was burnt. 
 
 6th December. Discourse of another 
 plot, in which several great persons were 
 named, but believed to be a sham. — A 
 proposal in the House of Commons that 
 every officer in the whole nation who 
 received a salary above ^500 or otherwise 
 by virtue of his office, should contribute it 
 wholly to support of the war with France, 
 and this upon their oaths. 2 
 
 2$th. My daughter-in-law was brought 
 to bed of a daughter. 3 
 
 26th. An exceeding dry and calm 
 winter, no rain for many past months. 
 
 28th. Dined at Lambeth with the new 
 Archbishop. 4 Saw the effect of my green- 
 house furnace, set up by the Archbishop's 
 son-in-law. 
 
 30^//. I again saw Mr. Charlton's collec- 
 tion 5 of spiders, birds, scorpions, and other 
 serpents, etc. 
 
 169 1 -2 : 1st January. This last week 
 died that pious admirable Christian, ex- 
 cellent philosopher, and my worthy friend, 
 Mr. Boyle, aged about 65 6 — a great loss to 
 all that knew him, and to the public. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 408.] 
 
 2 [A poll-tax was levied in the following year ; 
 but in 1694 began the plan of borrowing for 
 extraordinary expenses, and the National Debt.] 
 
 3 [See/ost, p. 427.] 4 [Dr. Tillotson.] 
 
 5 See ante, p. 394. 6 [See ante, p. 189.] 
 
 6th. At the funeral of Mr. Boyle, at 
 St. Martin's. Dr. Burnet, Bishop of Salis- 
 bury, preached on Eccles. ii. 26. He 
 concluded with an eulogy due to the 
 deceased, who made God and religion the 
 scope of all his excellent talents in the 
 knowledge of nature, and who had arrived 
 to so high a degree in it, accompanied with 
 such zeal and extraordinary piety, which 
 he showed in the whole course of his life, 
 particularly in his exemplary charity on all 
 occasions — that he gave ^1000 yearly to 
 the distressed refugees of France and 
 Ireland ; was at the charge of translating 
 the Scriptures into the Irish and Indian 
 tongues, and was now promoting a Turkish 
 translation, as he had formerly done of 
 Grotius "on the Truth of the Christian 
 Religion " into Arabic, which he caused 
 to be dispersed in the Eastern countries ; 
 that he had settled a fund for preachers 
 who should preach expressly against 
 Atheists, Libertines, Socinians, and Jews ; 
 that he had in his will given ^8000 to 
 charitable uses ; but that his private chari- 
 ties were extraordinary. He dilated on 
 his learning in Hebrew and Greek, his 
 reading of the Fathers, and solid knowledge 
 in theology, once deliberating about taking 
 Holy Orders, and that at the time of 
 restoration of King Charles II., when he 
 might have made a great figure in the 
 nation as to secular honour and titles ; his 
 fear of not being able to discharge so 
 weighty a duty as the first, made him 
 decline that, and his humility the other. 
 He spake of his civility to strangers, the 
 great good which he did by his experience 
 in medicine and chemistry, and to what 
 noble ends he applied himself to his darling 
 studies ; the works both pious and useful 
 which he published ; the exact life he led, 
 and the happy end he made. Something 
 was touched of his sister, the Lady 
 Ranelagh, 1 who died but a few days before 
 him. And truly all this was but his due, 
 without any grain of flattery. 
 
 This week, a most execrable murder was 
 committed on Dr. Clench, father of that 
 extraordinary learned child whom I have 
 before noticed. 2 Under pretence of carry- 
 ing him in a coach to see a patient, they 
 strangled him in it ; and, sending away 
 the coachman under some pretence, they 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 421.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 410.] 
 
1692] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 427 
 
 left his dead body in the coach, and escaped 
 in the dusk of the evening. 
 
 \ 2th January. My grand-daughter was 
 christened by Dr. Tenison, now bishop of 
 Lincoln, in Trinity Church, being the first 
 that was christened there. She was named 
 Jane. 
 
 24//%. A frosty and dry season con- 
 tinued ; many persons die of apoplexies, 
 more than usual. — Lord Marlborough, 
 Lieutenant-General of the King's army in 
 England, Gentleman of the Bedchamber, 
 etc., dismissed from all his charges, military 
 and other, for his excessive taking of 
 bribes, covetousness, and extortion on all 
 occasions from his inferior officers. 1 — Note, 
 this was the Lord who was entirely ad- 
 vanced by King James, and was the first 
 who betrayed and forsook his master. He 
 was son of Sir Winston Churchill of the 
 Green-cloth. 
 
 Jl/i February. An extraordinary snow 
 fell in most parts. 
 
 13M. Mr. Boyle having made me one 
 of the trustees for his charitable bequests, 
 I went to a meeting of the Bishop of 
 
 Lincoln, Sir Rob wood, and 
 
 Serjeant Rotheram, 2 to settle that clause in 
 the will which related to charitable uses, 
 and especially the appointing and electing 
 a minister to preach one sermon the first 
 Sunday in the month, during the four 
 summer months, expressly against Atheists, 
 Deists, Libertines, Jews, etc., without 
 descending to any other controversy what- 
 ever, for which ^50 per annum is to be 
 paid quarterly to the preacher ; and, at the 
 end of three years, to proceed to a new 
 
 1 [10th January (see infra, under 28th Feb- 
 ruary).] 
 
 2 [The Trustees were Dr. Tenison (Lord Bishop 
 of Lincoln, and afterwards Primate), Sir Henry 
 Ashhurst, Kt. and Baronet, Sir John Rotheram, 
 Serjeant-at-Law, and John Evelyn (cf. J>ost, 2nd 
 May, 1696). The terms of Boyle's bequest, as 
 recited in Bentley's letter to the Trustees of March 
 17, differ somewhat from Evelyn's account in the 
 Diary. An annual salary was to be settled for 
 " some divine or preaching minister," who should 
 "preach eight sermons in the year, for proving 
 the Christian religion against notorious infidels, 
 viz. Atheists, Deists, Pagans, Jews and Mahome- 
 tans, not descending to any controversies that are 
 among Christians themselves : the lectures to be 
 on the first Monday of the respective months of 
 January, February, March, April, May, Septem- 
 ber, October, November ; in such church as 
 the Trustees shall from time to time appoint" 
 (Bentley's Works, by Dyce, 1838, iii., xv.).] 
 
 election of some other able divine, or to 
 continue the same, as the trustees should 
 judge convenient. We made choice of one 
 Mr. Bentley, 1 chaplain to the Bishop of 
 Worcester (Dr. Stillingfleet). The first 
 sermon was appointed for the first Sunday 
 in March, at St. Martin's; the second Sunday 
 in April, at Bow-church, and so alternately. 
 
 28/^. Lord Marlborough ' 2 having used x 
 words against the King, and been dis- 
 charged from all his great places, his wife 
 was forbid the Court, and the Princess of 
 Denmark was desired by the Queen to 
 dismiss her from her service ; but she re- 
 fusing to do so, goes away from Court to 
 Syon-house. 3 — Divers new Lords made ; 
 Sir Henry Capel, 4 Sir William Fermor, 5 
 etc. — Change of Commissioners in the 
 Treasury. — The Parliament adjourned, not 
 well satisfied with affairs. The business 
 of the East India Company, which they 
 would have reformed, let fall. — The Duke 
 of Norfolk does not succeed in his en- 
 deavour to be divorced. 6 
 
 2Qtk March. My son was made one of 
 the Commissioners of the Revenue and 
 Treasury of Ireland, to which employment 
 he had a mind, far from my wishes. — I 
 visited the Earl of Peterborough, 7 who 
 showed me the picture of the Prince of 
 Wales, newly brought out of France, seem- 
 ing in my opinion very much to resemble 
 the Queen his mother, and of a most 
 vivacious countenance. 
 
 1 Richard Bentley, 1662 - 1742, the celebrated 
 scholar and critic, afterwards Librarian to the 
 King, and Master of Trinity College, Cambridge. 
 [He delivered the first course of Boyle Lectures in 
 this year, beginning on March 7, and ending 
 December 5. They were first published separate^, 
 and then collected in 1693 under the general title 
 of The Folly and Unreasonableness of A theism 
 demonstrated, etc.] 
 
 2 John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, 1650- 
 1722. The real cause of his dismissal from his 
 employments by William III. was not the one 
 mentioned by Evelyn ; [but the fact that he had 
 been intriguing with the Jacobites to bring back 
 James to the throne. They distrusted him, and 
 betrayed him to the King, who, of course, could no 
 longer retain him at the head of the army]. 
 
 3 [At Syon House (see ante, p. 239). Here, or 
 at Berkeley House, Piccadilly, Anne lived during 
 the remainder of her sister's life.] 
 
 4 Lord Capel, of Tewkesbury (see ante, p. 255). 
 
 5 Baron Leominster ; afterwards Earl of Pom- 
 fret (see ante, p. 318). 
 
 6 [Henry Howard, seventh Duke of Norfolk, 
 1655-1701 (see^ost, under April, 1700).] 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 367.] 
 
428 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1692 
 
 April. No spring yet appearing. The 
 Queen-dowager went out of England to- 
 wards Portugal, as pretended, against the 
 advice of all her friends. 1 
 
 4M, Mr. Bentley preached Mr. Boyle's 
 lecture at St. Mary-le-Bow. 2 So excellent 
 a discourse against the Epicurean system 
 is not to be recapitulated in a few words. 
 He came to me to ask whether I thought 
 it should be printed, or that there was 
 anything in it which I desired to be 
 altered. I took this as a civility, and 
 earnestly desired it should be printed, as 
 one of the most learned and convincing 
 discourses I had ever heard. 
 
 6tk. A fast. — King James sends a letter 
 written and directed by his own hand to 
 several of the Privy Council, and one to 
 his daughter the Queen Regent, informing 
 them of the Queen being ready to be 
 brought to bed, and summoning them to 
 be at the birth by the middle of May, 
 promising as from the French King, per- 
 mission to come and return in safety. 
 
 24th. Much apprehension of a French 
 invasion, 3 and of an universal rising. Our 
 fleet begins to join with the Dutch. Un- 
 kindness between the Queen and her sister. 4 
 Very cold and unseasonable weather, scarce 
 a leaf on the trees. 
 
 ^th May. Reports of an invasion were 
 very hot, and alarmed the City, Court, 
 and people ; nothing but securing sus- 
 pected persons, sending forces to the sea- 
 side, and hastening out the fleet. Con- 
 tinued discourse of the French invasion, 
 and of ours in France. The eastern wind 
 so constantly blowing, gave our fleet time 
 to unite, which had been so tardy in pre- 
 paration, that, had not God thus wonder- 
 fully favoured, the enemy would in all 
 probability have fallen upon us. Many 
 daily secured, and proclamations out for 
 more conspirators. 
 
 %th. My kinsman, Sir Edward Evelyn, 
 of Long Ditton, 5 died suddenly. 
 
 12th. A fast. 
 
 1 [Catherine of Braganza reached Lisbon in 
 January, 1693, after travelling through France and 
 Spain.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 427. This was the second 
 Lecture. ] 
 
 3 [See infra, under 15th May.] 
 
 4 See ante, p. 427; a.ndpost, under 13th January, 
 1605.] 
 
 B [He had been created a Baronet in 1683. 1 
 
 1 3^/5. I dined at my Cousin Cheyne's, 
 son to my Lord Cheyne, who married my 
 cousin Pierrepont. 1 
 
 i$t/i. My niece, M. Evelyn, was now 
 married to Sir Cyril Wyche, Secretary of 
 State for Ireland. 2 — After all our appre- 
 hensions of being invaded, and doubts of 
 our success by sea, it pleased God to give 
 us a great naval victory, 3 to the utter ruin 
 of the French fleet, their admiral and all 
 their best men-of-war, transport-ships, etc. 
 
 29th. Though this day was set apart 
 expressly for celebrating the memorable 
 birth, return, and restoration of the late 
 King Charles II., there was no notice 
 taken of it, nor any part of the office 
 annexed to the Common Prayer - Book 
 made use of, which I think was ill done, 
 in regard his restoration not only redeemed 
 us from anarchy and confusion, but re- 
 stored the Church of England as il were 
 miraculously. 
 
 qth June. I went to Windsor to carry 
 my grandson to Eton School, where I met 
 my Lady Stonehouse 4 and other of my 
 daughter-in-law's relations, who came on 
 purpose to see her before her journey into 
 Ireland. We went to see the Castle, which 
 we found furnished and very neatly kept, 
 as formerly, only that the arms in the 
 guard-chamber and keep were removed and 
 carried away. — An exceeding great storm 
 of wind and rain, in some places stripping 
 the trees of their fruit and leaves as if it 
 had been winter ; and an extraordinary 
 wet season, with great floods. 
 
 16th July. I went to visit the Bishop 
 of Lincoln, when, amongst other things, 
 he told me that one Dr. Chaplin, of Uni- 
 versity College in Oxford, was the person 
 who wrote the Whole Duty of Man ; 5 that 
 he used to read it to his pupil, and com- 
 municated it to Dr. Sterne, 6 afterwards 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 428.] 
 
 2 [See post, under 4th October, 1699. Sir Cyril 
 Wyche, 1632-1707, was one of the Lords Justices of 
 Ireland, 1693-95.] 
 
 3 [The famous victory of La Hogue, May 19. 
 On the 24th, sixteen large vessels of war, and many 
 transports, were destroyed by five ships on the 
 beach at Cape La Hogue in sight of James and 
 his army.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 323.] 
 
 5 [The Whole Duty 0/ Man is now ascribed to 
 Richard Allestree (see ante, p. 208).] 
 
 6 Richard Sterne, 1596-1683, great-grandfather 
 of the author of Tristram Shandy. He attended 
 Archbishop Laud to the scaffold as his chaplain. 
 
1692] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 429 
 
 Archbishop of York, but could never suffer 
 any of his pupils to have a copy of it. 
 
 zyrt July. I went with my wife, son, 
 and daughter, to Eton, to see my grandson, 
 and thence to my Lord Godolphin's, at 
 Cranborne, 1 where we lay, and were most 
 honourably entertained. The next day to 
 St. George's Chapel, and returned to 
 London late in the evening. 
 
 25M. To Mr. Hewers at Clapham, 2 
 where he has an excellent, useful, and 
 capacious house on the Common, built by 
 Sir Den. Gauden, and by him sold to Mr. 
 Hewer, who got a very considerable estate 
 in the Navy, in which, from being Mr. 
 Pepys's clerk, he came to be one of the 
 principal officers, but was put out of'all 
 employment on the Revolution, as were 
 all the best officers, on suspicion of being 
 no friends to the change ; such were put 
 in their places, as were most shamefully 
 ignorant and unfit. Mr. Hewer lives very 
 handsomely and friendly to everybody. — 
 Our fleet was now sailing on their long 
 pretence of a descent on the French coast ; 
 but, after having sailed one hundred 
 leagues, returned, the admiral and officers 
 disagreeing as to the place where they 
 were to land, and the time of year being 
 so far spent, — to the great dishonour of 
 those at the helm, who concerted their 
 matters so indiscreetly, or, as some thought, 
 designedly. 3 
 
 This whole summer was exceeding wet 
 and rainy ; the like had not been known 
 since the year 1648 ; whilst in Ireland they 
 had not known so great a drought. 
 
 \oth August. A fast. — Came the sad 
 news of the hurricane and earthquake, 
 which has destroyed almost the whole 
 Island of Jamaica, many thousands having 
 perished. 
 
 On the Restoration he was created Bishop of 
 Carlisle, and subsequently Archbishop of York, 
 1664-1683. He assisted in the Polyglot and in the 
 revLsal of the Book of Common Prayer. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 295.] 
 
 2 [William Hewer, d. 17 15. He had been Com- 
 missioner of the Navy, and Treasurer for Tangier.] 
 Much will be found concerning him in Pepys' 
 Diary. [The house at "Paradisian Clapham" 
 (Evelyn to Pepys, 20th January, 1703), where 
 Pepys lived with Hewer from 1700 to his death in 
 1703, was pulled down about 1760. See past, under 
 23rd September, 1700.] 
 
 3 [The intention had been to reduce St. Malo, 
 but it was found unassailable (see post, under 
 January, 1693).] 
 
 nth. My son, his wife, and little 
 daughter, went for Ireland, there to reside 
 as one of the Commissioners of the 
 Revenue. 1 
 
 14M. Still an exceeding wet season. 
 
 l^th September. There happened an 
 earthquake, which, though not so great as 
 to do any harm in England, was universal 
 in all these parts of Europe. It shook the 
 house at Wotton, but was not perceived 
 by any save a servant or two, who were 
 making my bed, and another in a garret. 
 I and the rest being at dinner below in 
 the parlour, were not sensible of it. The 
 dreadful one in Jamaica this summer was 
 profanely and ludicrously represented in a 
 puppet-play, or some such lewd pastime, 
 in the fair of Southwark, 2 which caused 
 the Queen to put down that idle and 
 vicious mock show. 
 
 1st October. This season was so exceed- 
 ingly cold, by reason of a long and tem- 
 pestuous north-east wind, that this usually 
 pleasant month was very uncomfortable. 
 No fruit ripened kindly. — Harbord dies at 
 Belgrade ; * Lord Paget sent 4 Ambassador 
 in his room. 
 
 6th November. There was a vestry called 
 about repairing or new building of the 
 church [at Deptford], 5 which I thought 
 unseasonable in regard of heavy taxes, and 
 other improper circumstances, which I 
 there declared. 
 
 10th. A solemn Thanksgiving for our 
 victory at sea, safe return of the King, etc. 
 
 20th. Dr. Lancaster, the new Vicar of 
 St. Martin's, preached. 
 
 A signal robbery in Hertfordshire of 
 the tax-money bringing out of the north 
 towards London. They were set upon by 
 several desperate persons, who dismounted 
 and stopped all travellers on the road, and 
 guarding them in a field, when the exploit 
 was done, and the treasure taken, they 
 killed all the horses of those whom they 
 stayed, to hinder pursuit, being sixteen 
 
 1 [He was a Commissioner of Revenue in Ireland, 
 1692-96.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 206.] 
 
 3 [William Harbord, 1635-92, Ambassador to 
 Turkey to mediate between the Sultan and the 
 Emperor Leopold.] 
 
 4 [William Paget, 1637-1713, sixth Baron; 
 Ambassador to Turkey, 1693-1702.] 
 
 5 [It was subsequently rebuilt in 1697 by volun- 
 tary subscription and an assessment.] 
 
43Q 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1693 
 
 horses. They then dismissed those that 
 they had dismounted. 
 
 14/ h December. With much reluctance 
 we gratified Sir J. Rotheram, one of Mr. 
 Boyle's trustees, by admitting the Bishop 
 of Bath and Wells x to be lecturer for the 
 next year, instead of Mr. Bentley, who 
 had so worthily acquitted himself. We 
 intended to take him in again the next 
 year. 
 
 1692-3 : January. Contest in Parlia- 
 ment about a self-denying Act, that no 
 Parliament-man should have any office : it 
 wanted only two or three voices to have 
 been carried. — The Duke of Norfolk's 
 Bill for a divorce thrown out, he having 
 managed it very indiscreetly.' 2 — The quarrel 
 between Admiral Russell and Lord Not- 
 tingham yet undetermined. 3 
 
 4//z February. After five days' trial and 
 extraordinary contest, the Lord Mohun 4 
 was acquitted by the Lords of the murder 
 of Mountford, the player, notwithstanding 
 the Judges, from the pregnant witnesses 
 of the fact, had declared him guilty ; but 
 whether in commiseration of his youth, 
 being not eighteen years old, though ex- 
 ceeding dissolute, or upon whatever other 
 reason, the King himself present some 
 part of the trial, and satisfied, as they re- 
 port, that he was culpable, 69 acquitted 
 him, only 14 condemned him. 
 
 Unheard-of stories of the universal in- 
 crease of witches in New England ; men, 
 women, and children, devoting themselves 
 to the devil, so as to threaten the sub- 
 version of the government. 5 — At the same 
 time there was a conspiracy amongst the 
 negroes in Barbadoes to murder all their 
 
 1 [Dr. Richard Kidder, 1633 - 1703 ; Bishop of 
 Bath and Wells, 1691-1703.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 307, axvipost, under April, 1700.] 
 
 3 [In connection with the fruitless expedition to 
 St. Malo referred to at p. 429. Daniel Finch, the 
 Earl of Nottingham, was Secretary of State, and 
 virtually at the head of the Admiralty (see infra).] 
 
 4 [Charles Mohun, fifth Baron Mohun, 1675- 
 1712, was tried and acquitted of the murder of 
 William Mountford, the actor. He figures in 
 Thackeray's Esmond.] 
 
 5 An account of these poor people is given in 
 Manning and Bray's Surrey, 1809, ii. 714, from 
 the papers of the Rev. Mr. John Miller, Vicar of 
 Effingham in that county, who was Chaplain to 
 the King's forces in the Colony from 1692 to 1695. 
 Some of the accused were convicted and executed ; 
 hut Sir William Phipps, the Governor, had the 
 good sense to reprieve, and afterwards pardon, 
 several ; and the Queen approved his conduct. 
 
 masters, discovered by overhearing a dis- 
 course of two of the slaves, and so pre- 
 venting the execution of the design. — 
 Hitherto an exceeding mild winter. — 
 France in the utmost misery and poverty 
 for want of corn and subsistence, whilst 
 the ambitious King is intent to pursue his 
 conquests on the rest of his neighbours 
 both by sea and land. Our Admiral, 
 Russell, laid aside for not pursuing the 
 advantage he had obtained over the French 
 in the past summer ; 1 three others chosen 
 in his place. Dr. Burnet, Bishop of Salis- 
 bury's book burnt by the hangman for an 
 expression of the King's title by conquest, 
 on a complaint of Joseph How, a Member 
 of Parliament, little better than a madman. 
 
 19M. The Bishop of Lincoln - preached 
 in the afternoon at the Tabernacle, near 
 Golden Square, set up by him. — Proposals 
 of a marriage between Mr. Draper and my 
 daughter Susannah. 3 — Hitherto an exceed- 
 ing warm winter, such as has seldom been 
 known, and portending an unprosperous 
 spring as to the fruits of the earth ; our 
 climate requires more cold and winterly 
 weather. The dreadful and astonishing 
 earthquake swallowing up Catania and 
 other famous and ancient cities, with more 
 than 100,000 persons in Sicily, on nth 
 January last, came now to be reported 
 amongst us. 
 
 26th. An extraordinary deep snow, 
 after almost no winter, and a sudden 
 gentle thaw. — A deplorable earthquake at 
 Malta, since that of Sicily, nearly as great. 
 
 1 gtk March. A new Secretary of State, 
 Sir John Trenchard ; 4 the Attorney - 
 
 1 [Edward Russell, 1653-1727. He had been in 
 secret correspondence with King James. He was 
 again employed in 1694, and made Earl of Oxford 
 in 1697.] 
 
 2 [Dr. Tenison. His chapel, which Strype in 
 his Stow, 1720, speaks of as "the Chapel of Ease 
 by some called the Tabernacle," is on the west side 
 of King Street, Golden Square.] 
 
 3 [Susanna Evelyn was the third daughter (see 
 post, p. 431).] 
 
 4 Sir John Trenchard of Bloxworth, in Dorset- 
 shire, 1640-95. He had been implicated in the 
 Rye-House Plot (see ante, p. 347), and engaged 
 with the Duke of Monmouth, but escaped out of 
 England, and lived some time abroad, where he 
 acquired a large and correct knowledge of foreign 
 affairs. He was the confidential friend of King 
 William, by whom he had been commissioned to 
 concert measures with his friends on this side of 
 the water, and ensure his favourable reception. 
 Previously to his appointment of Secretary of 
 
1693] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 43i 
 
 General, Somers, made Lord-Keeper, a 
 young lawyer of extraordinary merit. 1 — 
 King William goes towards Flanders ; but 
 returns, the wind being contrary. 
 
 3U/ March, I met the King going to 
 Gravesend to embark in his yacht for 
 Holland. 
 
 23rd April, An extraordinary wet 
 spring. 
 
 X]th, My daughter Susanna was 
 married to William Draper, Esq., in the 
 chapel of Ely House, by Dr. Tenison, 
 Bishop of Lincoln (since Archbishop). I 
 gave her in portion ^"4000, her jointure is 
 ,£500 per annum. I pray Almighty God 
 to give His blessing to this marriage ! 
 She is a good child, religious, discreet, 
 ingenious, and qualified with all the orna- 
 ments of her sex. She has a peculiar 
 talent in design, as painting in oil and 
 miniature, and an extraordinary genius 
 for whatever hands can do with a needle. 
 She has the French tongue, has read most 
 of the Greek and Roman authors and 
 poets, using her talents with great 
 modesty : exquisitely shaped, and of an 
 agreeable countenance. This character is 
 due to her, though coming from her 
 father. Much of this week spent in 
 ceremonies, receiving visits and enter- 
 taining relations, and a great part of the 
 next in returning visits. 
 
 wth May. We accompanied my 
 daughter to her husband's house, 2 where 
 with many of his and our relations we 
 were magnificently treated. There we 
 left her in an apartment very richly adorned 
 and furnished, and I hope in as happy a 
 condition as could be wished, and with 
 the great satisfaction of all our friends : for 
 which God be praised ! 
 
 \/^h. Nothing yet of action from 
 abroad. Muttering of a design to bring 
 forces under colour of an expected descent, 
 to be a standing army for other purposes. 
 Talk of a declaration of the French King, 
 offering mighty advantages to the Con- 
 federates, exclusive of King William ; and 
 another of King James, with an universal 
 pardon, and referring the composing of all 
 
 State, the King had made him Serjeant-at-Law, 
 and Chief Justice of Chester. 
 
 1 [Sir John Somers, afterwards Baron Somers, 
 1651-1716. He had heen knighted, and made 
 Solicitor-General in 1689.] 
 
 ' 2 At Addiscombe, near Croydon. 
 
 differences to a Parliament. These were 
 yet but discourses ; but something is 
 certainly under it. A Declaration or 
 Manifesto from King James, so written, 
 that many thought it reasonable, and 
 much more to the purpose than any of 
 his former. 
 
 June. Whit - Sunday. I went to my 
 Lord Griffith's chapel ; the common 
 church-office was used for the King with- 
 out naming the person, with some other, 
 apposite to the necessity and circumstances 
 of the time. 
 
 nth. I dined at Sir William Godol- 
 phin's ; and, after evening prayer, visited 
 the Duchess of Grafton. 1 
 
 21st. I saw a great auction of pictures 
 in the Banqueting-house, Whitehall. They 
 had been my Lord Melfort's, 2 now Am- 
 bassador from King James at Rome, and 
 engaged to his creditors here. Lord 
 Mulgrave 3 and Sir Edward Seymour 4 
 came to my house, and desired me to go 
 with them to the sale. Divers more of 
 the great lords, etc., were there, and 
 bought pictures dear enough. There were 
 some very excellent of Vandyck, Rubens, 
 and Bassano. Lord Godolphin bought 
 the picture of the Boys, by Murillo, the 
 Spaniard, for 80 guineas, dear enough ; 
 my nephew Glanville, the old Earl of 
 Arundel's head by Rubens, for ^20. 
 Growing late, I did not stay till ail were 
 sold. 
 
 24M. A very wet hay-harvest, and little 
 summer as yet. 
 
 qthjuly. Mr. Tippin, successor to Dr. 
 Parr at Camberwell, preached an excellent 
 sermon. 
 
 13M4 I saw the Queen's rare cabinets 
 and collection of china ; which was wonder- 
 fully rich and plentiful, but especially a 
 large cabinet, looking - glass frame and 
 stands, all of amber, much of it white, 
 with historical bas-reliefs and statues, with 
 medals carved in them, esteemed worth 
 ^4000, sent by the Duke of Brandenburg, 
 whose country, Prussia, abounds with 
 amber, cast up by the sea ; clivers other 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 422. She was now a widow.] 
 
 2 [John Drummond, first Earl, and titular Duke 
 of Melford, 1649-1714. He was a Jacobite Envoy 
 to Rome.] «* I See ante, p. 288.] 
 
 * Sir Edward Seymour, 4th Bt., 1633-1708, at 
 this time a Lord of Treasury and member of 
 Cabinet. 
 
432 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1694 
 
 China and Indian cabinets, screens, and 
 hangings. In her library were many 
 books in English, French, and Dutch, 
 of all sorts ; a cupboard of gold plate ; a 
 cabinet of silver filagree, which I think 
 was our Queen Mary's, 1 and which, in my 
 opinion, should have been generously sent 
 to her. 
 
 iSt/i July. I dined with Lord Mulgrave, 
 with the Earl of Devonshire, 2 Mr. Hamp- 
 den 3 (a scholar and fine gentleman), Dr. 
 Davenant, 4 Sir Henry Vane, and others, 
 and saw and admired the Venus of Cor- 
 reggio, which Lord Mulgrave had newly 
 bought of Mr. Daun, for ^250 ; one of the 
 best paintings I ever saw. 
 
 1st August. Lord Capel, Sir Cyril 
 Wyche, and Mr. Duncomb, made Lord- 
 Justices in Ireland ; Lord Sidney recalled, 
 and made Master of the Ordnance. 
 
 6th. Very lovely harvest- weather, and 
 a wholesome season, but no garden-fruit. 
 
 31^ October. A very ^vet and uncom- 
 fortable season. \ 
 
 12th November. Lord Nottingham re- 
 signed as Secretary of State ; 5 the Com- 
 missioners of the Admiralty outed, and 
 Russell 6 restored to his office. -^The season 
 continued very wet, as it had nearfy all 
 
 30M. Much importuned to take the 
 office of President of the Royal Society, 
 but I again declined it. Sir Robert South- 
 well was continued. 1 We all dined at 
 Pontac's, 2 as usual. 
 
 yd December. Mr. Bentley preached 
 at the Tabernacle, near Golden Square. 3 
 I gave my voice for him to proceed 
 on his former subject the following 
 year in Mr. Boyle's lecture, in which 
 he had been interrupted by the importunity 
 of Sir J. Rotheram that the Bishop of 
 Chichester 4 might be chosen the year 
 before, to the great dissatisfaction of the 
 Bishop of Lincoln and myself. We chose 
 Mr. Bentley again. 5 — The Duchess of 
 Grafton's Appeal to the House of Lords 
 for the Prothonotary's place given to the 
 late Duke and to her son by King Charles 
 II., now challenged by the Lord Chief- 
 Justice. The Judges were severely reproved 
 on something they said. 
 
 \oth. A very great storm of thunder 
 and lightning. 
 
 1693-4 : 1st January. Prince Lewis of 
 Baden came to London, and was much 
 feasted. Danish ships arrested carrying 
 corn and naval stores to France. 
 
 1 \th. Supped at Mr. Edward Sheldon's, 
 
 Venetian manner by Mr. Neale, Sir R. 
 Haddock, one of the Commissioners " of 
 the Navy, had the greatest lot, ^3000 ; 
 my coachman ^40. 
 
 iyth. Was the funeral of Captain 
 Young, who died of the stone and great 
 age. I think he was the first who in the 
 first war with Cromwell against Spain, 7 
 took the Governor of Havannah, and 
 another rich prize, and struck the first 
 stroke against the Dutch fleet in the firsv 
 war with Holland in the time of the 
 Rebellion ; a sober man and an excellent 
 seamen. 
 
 1 [King James's Queen, now at St. Germain.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 167.] a [See ante, p. 348.] 
 
 4 Charles Davenant, 1656-1714, eldest son of Sir 
 William Davenant, joint inspector of plays, Com- 
 missioner of Excise, and Inspector - General of 
 Exports and Imports 1705-14. His chief work 
 was called Essays on Trade, in five volumes. 
 
 5 See ante, p. 407. He was succeeded by Charles 
 Earl of Shrewsbury. 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 430.] 7 See p. 192. 
 
 the summer, if one might call it summer, /""/here was Mr. Dryden, the poet, who 
 in which there was no fruit, but corn was / > r now intended to write no more plays, 
 very plentiful. .'. \'- being intent on his translation of Virgil. 
 
 14//Z. In the lottery set up after tljfe He read to us his prologue and epilogue to 
 
 his valedictory play now shortly to be acted. 6 
 2ist. Lord Macclesfield, Lord War- 
 rington, and Lord Westmoreland, all 
 died within about one week. Several 
 persons shot, hanged, and made away 
 with themselves. 
 
 lltk February. Now was the great 
 trial of the appeal of Lord Bath and Lord 
 Montagu before the Lords, for the estate of 
 the late Duke of Albemarle. 7 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 423.] 2 [See ante, p. 349.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 427.] 
 
 4 A mistake for Bath and Wells. Bishop 
 Kidder is referred to (see ante, p. 430). 
 
 6 [See ante, p. 427. " In 1694 Bentley again 
 delivered a course of Boyle Lectures — ' A Defence 
 of Christianity ' — but they were never printed. 
 Manuscript copies of them are mentioned _ by 
 Kippis, the editor of the Biograpkia Britannica '. 
 but Dean Vincent, who died in 1815, is reported by 
 Kidd as believing they were lost " (J ebb's Bentley, 
 1882, p. 52).] 
 
 6 [Love Triumphant, 1694.] 
 
 7 [John Grenville, Earl of Bath, 1628-1701, 
 claimed the Albemarle estate, under the will of 
 
1694] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 433 
 
 loth March. Mr. Stringfellow 1 preached 
 at Trinity parish, being restored to that 
 place, after the contest between the Queen 
 and the Bishop of London, who had dis- 
 placed him. 
 
 22nd. Came the dismal news of the 
 disaster befallen our Turkey fleet by tem- 
 pest, to the almost utter ruin of that trade, 
 the convoy of three or four men-of-war, 
 and divers merchant-ships, with all their 
 men and lading, having perished. 
 
 25M. Dr. Goode, minister of St. 
 Martin's, preached ; he was likewise put 
 in by the Queen, on the issue of her pro- 
 cess with the Bishop of London. 
 
 2pth. I went to the Duke of Norfolk, 
 to desire him to make cousin Evelyn of 
 Nutfield one of the Deputy-Lieutenants of 
 Surrey, and entreat him to dismiss my 
 brother, now unable to serve by reason of 
 age and infirmity. The Duke granted the 
 one, but would not suffer my brother to 
 resign his commission, desiring he should 
 keep the honour of it during his life, 
 though he could not act. He professed 
 great kindness to our family. 
 
 1st April. Dr. Sharp, Archbishop of 
 York, 2 preached in the afternoon at the 
 Tabernacle, by Soho. 
 
 13M. Mr. Bentley, our Boyle Lecturer, 3 
 Chaplain to the Bishop of Worcester, came 
 to see me. 
 
 \$th. One Mr. Stanhope 4 preached a 
 most excellent sermon. 
 
 22nd. A fiery exhalation rising out of 
 the sea, spread itself in Montgomeryshire 
 a furlong broad, and many miles in length, 
 burning all straw, hay, thatch, and grass, 
 but doing no harm to trees, timber, or any 
 solid things, only firing barns, or thatched 
 houses. It left such a taint on the grass 
 as to kill all the cattle that eat of it. I 
 saw the attestations in the hands of the 
 sufferers. It lasted many months.— The 
 Berkeley Castle sunk by the French coming 
 from the East Indies, worth ^200,000. 
 
 Christopher Monck, second Duke of Albemarle, 
 who died in 1688. Actions were brought against 
 him by the Earl of Montagu and Elizabeth 
 Cavendish, Duchess of Albemarle (see post, pp. 
 441 and 454).] x [See ante, p. 425.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 391.] 3 [See ante, p. 432.] 
 4 Dr. George Stanhope, 1660-1728, afterwards 
 Dean of Canterbury, a divine who made no scruple 
 to publish what he found truly pious in the works 
 of a Roman Catholic Priest (sec post, p. 439). 
 
 The French took our castle of Gamboo in 
 Guinea, so that the Africa Actions fell to 
 ^30, and the India to ^80. — Some regi- 
 ments of Highland dragoons were on their 
 march through England ; they were of 
 large stature, well appointed and dis- 
 ciplined. One of them having reproached 
 a Dutchman for cowardice in our late fight, 
 was attacked by two Dutchmen, when with 
 his sword he struck off the head of one, 
 and cleft the skull of the other down to his 
 chin. 
 
 A very young gentleman named Wilson, 
 the younger son of one who had not above 
 ^"200 a -year estate, lived in the garb and 
 equipage of the richest nobleman, for 
 house, furniture, coaches, saddle - horses, 
 and kept a table, and all things accord- 
 ingly, redeemed his father's estate, and 
 gave portions to his sisters, being chal- 
 lenged by one Law, a Scotchman, was 
 killed in a duel, not fairly. The quarrel 
 arose from his taking away his own sister 
 from lodging in a house where this Law 
 had a mistress, which the mistress of the 
 house thinking a disparagement to it, and 
 losing by it, instigated Law to this duel. 
 He was taken and condemned for murder. 
 The mystery is how this so young a gentle- 
 man, very sober and of good fame, could 
 live in such an expensive manner ; it could 
 not be discovered by all possible industry, 
 or entreaty of his friends to make him 
 reveal it. It did not appear that he was 
 kept by women, play, coining, padding, 1 
 or dealing in chemistry ; but he would 
 sometimes say that if he should live ever 
 so long, he had wherewith to maintain 
 himself in the same manner. He was very 
 civil and well-natured, but of no great force 
 of understanding. This was a subject of 
 much discourse.'^ 
 
 24M. I went to visit Mr. Waller, an 
 extraordinary young gentleman of great 
 accomplishments, skilled in mathematics, 
 anatomy, music, painting both in oil 
 and miniature to great perfection, an ex- 
 
 1 [Highway robbery.] 
 
 2 [It is still a mystery. Edward, or " Beau," 
 Wilson was the fifth son of Thomas Wilson, Esq., 
 of Keythorpe, Leicestershire. He was killed on 
 the gth April, 1694, by John Law, the financier 
 (1671-1729). Law, who escaped to France, _ was 
 pardoned in 1719. According to one "solution," 
 Wilson was supplied with his money by William 
 III.'s mistress, the Countess of Orkney who was 
 also responsible for his death.] 
 
 2F 
 
434 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1694 
 
 cellent botanist, a rare engraver on brass, 
 writer in Latin, and a poet ; and with all 
 this exceeding modest. His house is an 
 academy of itself. I carried him to see 
 Brompton Park [by Knightsbridge], 1 where 
 he was in admiration at the store of rare 
 plants, and the method he found in that 
 noble nursery, and how well it was culti- 
 vated. — A public Bank of ,£140,000, set 
 up by Act of Parliament among other Acts, 
 and Lotteries for money to carry on the 
 war. — The whole month of April without 
 rain. — A great rising of people in Bucking- 
 hamshire, on the declaration of a famous 
 preacher, 2 till now reputed a sober and 
 religious man, that our Lord Christ appear- 
 ing to him on the 16th of this month, told 
 him he was now come down, and would 
 appear publicly at Pentecost, and gather 
 all the saints, Jews and Gentiles, and lead 
 them to Jerusalem, and begin the Mil- 
 lennium, and destroying and judging the 
 wicked, deliver the government of the 
 world to the saints. Great multitudes 
 followed this preacher, divers of the most 
 zealous brought their goods and consider- 
 able sums of money, and began to live in 
 imitation of the primitive saints, minding 
 no private concerns, continually dancing 
 and singing Hallelujah night and day. 
 This brings to mind what I lately happened 
 to find in Alstedius, 3 that the thousand 
 years should begin this very year 1694 : it 
 is in his Encyclopedia Biblica. My copy 
 of the book printed near sixty years ago. 
 
 4//1 May. I went this day with my wife 
 and four servants from Sayes Court, re- 
 moving much furniture of all sorts, books, 
 pictures, hangings, bedding, etc., to furnish 
 
 1 [Between Knightsbridge and Kensington, but 
 now built over. It belonged to Henry Wise, 
 1653-78, afterwards gardener to Queen Anne and 
 George I., and one of the firm of London and Wise, 
 the nursery gardeners mentioned in No. 5 of the 
 Spectator. Evelyn refers to them in his "Adver- 
 tisement " to La Quintinye's Compleat Gardener, 
 1693.] 
 
 2 John Mason, 1646-94, who was presented to 
 the Rectory of Water Stratford, in 1674. Great 
 numbers of his deluded followers left their homes, 
 and filled all the houses and barns in the neighbour- 
 hood of Water Stratford ; and, when prevented 
 from assembling in their chosen field (the " Holy 
 Ground "), they congregated in the town. Three 
 pamphlets on the subject were published in 1694, 
 after Mason's death, one of which was privately re- 
 printed by the Rev. Edward Cooke, Rector of 
 Haversham, in the same county (Bucks). 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 159.] 
 
 the apartment my brother assigned me, 
 and now, after more than forty years, to 
 spend the rest of my days with him at 
 Wotton, where I was born ; leaving my 
 house at Deptford full furnished, and three 
 servants, to my son-in-law Draper, 1 to pass 
 the summer in, and such longer time as he 
 should think fit to make use of it. 
 
 6th. This being the first Sunday in 
 the month, the blessed Sacrament of the 
 Lord's Supper ought to have been cele- 
 brated at Wotton Church, but in this 
 parish it is exceedingly neglected, so that,/' 
 unless at the four great Feasts, there is no 
 communion hereabouts ; which is a grea*t 
 fault both in ministers and people. I have\ 
 spoken to my brother, who is the patron, ) 
 to discourse the minister about it. — V 
 Scarcely one shower has fallen since the 
 beginning of April. 
 
 30th. This week we had news of my 
 Lord Teviot having cut his own throat, 
 through what discontent not yet said. He 
 had been, not many years past, my col- 
 league in the commission of the Privy 
 Seal, an old acquaintance, very soberly 
 and religiously inclined. 2 Lord, what are 
 we without Thy continual grace ! 
 
 Lord Falkland, 3 grandson to the learned 
 Lord Falkland, Secretary of State to King 
 Charles I., and slain in his service, died 
 now of the small-pox. He was a pretty, 
 brisk, understanding, industrious young 
 gentleman ; had formerly been faulty, but 
 now much reclaimed ; had also the good 
 luck to marry a very great fortune, besides 
 being entitled to a vast sum, his share of 
 the Spanish wreck, taken up at the expense 
 of divers adventurers. From a Scotch 
 Viscount he was made an English Baron, 
 designed Ambassador for Holland ; had 
 been Treasurer of the Navy, and advancing 
 extremely in the New Court. All now 
 gone in a moment, and I think the title is 
 extinct. I know not whether the estate 
 devolves to my cousin Carew. It was at 
 my Lord Falkland's, whose lady im- 
 portuned us to let our daughter be with 
 her some time, so that that dear child took 
 the same infection, which cost her valuable 
 life. 4 
 
 yd June. Air. Edwards, minister of 
 Denton, in Sussex, a living in my brother's 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 430.] 2 [See ante, p. 387.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 346.] ■* See ante, p. 369. 
 
1694] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 435 
 
 gift, came to see him. He had suffered 
 much by a fire. — Seasonable showers. 
 
 14M June. .The public Fast. Mr. 
 Wotton, 1 that extraordinary learned young 
 man, preached excellently. 
 
 1st July. Mr. Duncomb, minister of 
 Albury, preached at Wotton, a very re- 
 ligious and exact discourse. 
 
 The first great Bank 2 for a fund of 
 money being now established by Act of 
 Parliament, was filled and completed to 
 the sum of ;£ 120,000, and put under the 
 government of the most able and wealthy 
 citizens of London. All who adventured 
 any sum had four per cent, so long as it 
 lay in the Bank, and had power either to 
 take it out at pleasure, or transfer it. — 
 Glorious steady weather ; corn and all 
 fruits in extraordinary plenty generally. 
 
 iyk. Lord Berkeley burnt Dieppe and 
 Havre-de-Grace with bombs, in revenge 
 for the defeat at Brest. 3 This manner of 
 destructive war 4 was begun by the French, 
 is exceedingly ruinous, especially falling on 
 the poorer people, and does not seem to 
 tend to make a more speedy end of the 
 war ; but rather to exasperate and incite to 
 revenge. — Many executed at London for 
 clipping money, now done to that intoler- 
 able extent, that there was hardly any 
 money that was worth above half the 
 nominal value. 5 
 
 4//1 August. I went to visit my cousin, 
 George Evelyn of Nutfield, where I found 
 a family of ten children, five sons and five 
 daughters — all beautiful women grown, 
 and extremely well-fashioned. All painted 
 in one piece, very well, by Mr. Lutterel, 6 
 in crayon on copper, and seeming to be as 
 finely painted as the best miniature. They 
 are the children of two extraordinary 
 beautiful wives. The boys were at school. 
 
 $th. Stormy and unseasonable wet 
 weather this week. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 319.] 
 
 2 [The Bank of England, which received a Royal 
 
 Charter, July 27, 1694.] 
 
 3 [July 12, 16, 18. Vauban had strengthened the 
 Brest fortifications in anticipation of attack, and a 
 landing was found impracticable when attempted 
 in June.] 
 
 4 [Bombarding (see post, under 25th September, 
 
 5 [See post, under 12th January, 1690. J 
 
 «5 [Henry Lutterel, 1650-1710. He had dis- 
 covered a means of drawing crayon portraits on 
 copper, and he executed a few mezzotints.] 
 
 $tk October. I went to St. Paul's to see 
 the choir, now finished as to the stone 
 work, and the scaffold struck both without 
 and within, in that part. Some exceptions 
 might perhaps be taken as to the placing 
 columns on pilasters at the East tribunal. 
 As to the rest it is a piece of architecture 
 without reproach. The pulling out the 
 forms, like drawers, from under the stalls, 
 is ingenious. I went also to see the build- 
 ing beginning near St. Giles's, where seven 
 streets make a star from a Doric pillar 
 placed in the middle of a circular area ; * 
 said to be built by Mr. Neale, introducer 
 of the late lotteries, in imitation of those 
 at Venice, now set up here, for himself 
 twice, and now one for the State. 
 
 28M. Mr. Stringfellow preached at 
 Trinity church. 2 
 
 22nd November. Visited the Bishop of 
 Lincoln [Tenison] 8 newly come on the 
 death of the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 who a few days before had a paralytic 
 stroke — the same day and month that 
 Archbishop Sancroft was put out. — A very 
 sickly time, especially the small-pox, of 
 which divers considerable persons died. 
 The State Lottery 4 drawing, Mr. Cock, a 
 French refugee, and a President in the 
 Parliament of Paris for the Reformed, drew 
 a lot of ;£iooo per annum. 
 
 29M. I visited the Marquis of Nor- 
 manby, and had much discourse concerning 
 King Charles II. being poisoned. — Also 
 concerning the Quinquina which the phy- 
 sicians would not give to the King, at a 
 time when, in a dangerous ague, it was 
 the only thing -that could cure him (out of 
 envy because it had been brought into 
 vogue by Mr. Tudor, an apothecary), till 
 Dr. Short, to whom the King sent to know 
 his opinion of it privately, he being reputed 
 a Papist (but who was in truth a very 
 honest good Christian), sent word to the 
 King that it was the only thing which 
 could save his life, and then the King 
 enjoined his physicians to give it to him, 
 which they did, and he recovered. Being 
 asked by this Lord why they would not 
 prescribe it, Dr. Lower said it would spoil 
 
 1 [Seven Dials, St. Giles's. The "Doric pillar " 
 has long been removed elsewhere. ] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 433.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 330.] 
 
 4 State Lotteries finally closed October 18, 1826. 
 
43 6 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1695 
 
 their practice, or some such expression, 
 and at last confessed it was a remedy fit 
 only for kings. — Exception was taken that 
 the late Archbishop did not cause any of 
 his Chaplains to use any office for the sick 
 during his illness. 
 
 tyh December. I had news that my dear 
 and worthy friend, Dr. Tenison, Bishop of 
 Lincoln, was made Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, 1 for which I thank God and rejoice, 
 he being most worthy of it, for his learning, 
 piety, and prudence. 
 
 13M. I went to London to congratulate 
 him. He being my proxy, gave my vote 
 for Dr. Williams, 2 to succeed Mr. Bentley 
 in Mr. Boyle's lectures. 
 
 29^. The small-pox increased exceed- 
 ingly, and was very mortal. The Queen 
 died of it on the 28th. 3 
 
 1694-5 : 13M January. The Thames 
 was frozen over. The deaths by small-pox 
 increased to five hundred more than in the 
 7 preceding week. — The King and Princess 
 Anne reconciled, and she was invited 
 to keep her Court at Whitehall, having 
 hitherto lived privately at Berkeley-house ; 4 
 she was desired to take into her family 
 divers servants of the late Queen ; to main- 
 tain them the King has assigned her ^5000 
 a-quarter. 
 
 20tk. The frost and continual snow 
 have now lasted five weeks. 
 
 February. Lord Spencer married the 
 Duke of Newcastle's daughter, and our 
 neighbour, Mr. Hussey, 5 married a daughter 
 of my cousin George Evelyn, of Nutfield. 
 
 2,rd. The long frost intermitted, but 
 not gone. 
 
 17 th. Called to London by Lord 
 Godolphin, one of the Lords of the 
 Treasury, offering me the treasurership of 
 the hospital designed to be built at Green- 
 wich for worn-out seamen. 
 
 24/^. I saw the Queen lie in state. 
 
 2Jtk. The Marquis of Normandy told 
 me King Charles had a design to buy all 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 435.] 
 
 2 [Dr. John Williams, 1636 -1709, Bishop of 
 Chichester.] 
 
 3 [She was buried at Westminster, March <;. 
 1695.] * 
 
 * [See ante, p. 427. She had quitted the Cock- 
 pit at Whitehall in consequence of a quarrel with 
 the Queen.] 
 
 5 [Probably a son of Peter Hussey, of Sutton (see 
 ante, p. 273).] 
 
 King Street, 1 and build it nobly, it being 
 the street leading to Westminster. This 
 might have been done for the expense of 
 the Queen's funeral, which was ,£50,000, 
 against her desire. 2 
 
 $th March. I went to see the ceremony. 
 Never was so universal a mourning ; all 
 the Parliament-men had cloaks given them, 
 and four hundred poor women ; all the 
 streets hung, and the middle of the street 
 boarded and covered with black cloth. 
 There were all the Nobility, Mayor, Alder- 
 men, Judges, etc. 
 
 S?/z. I supped at the Bishop of Lichfield 
 and Coventry's, who related to me the 
 pious behaviour of the Queen in all her 
 sickness, which was admirable. She never 
 inquired of what opinion persons were, 
 who were objects of charity ; that, on 
 opening a cabinet, a paper was found 
 wherein she had desired that her body 
 might not be opened, or any extraordinary 
 expense at her funeral, whenever she should 
 die. This paper was not found in time to 
 be observed. There were other excellent 
 things under her own hand, to the very 
 least of her debts, which were very small, 
 and everything in that exact method, as 
 seldom is found in any private person. In 
 sum, she was such an admirable woman, 
 abating for taking the Crown without a 
 more due apology, 3 and does, if possible, 
 outdo the renowned Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 10th. I dined at the Earl of Sunder- 
 land's with Lord Spencer. My Lord, 
 showed me his library, now again im- 
 proved by many books bought at the 
 sale of Sir Charles Scar burgh, an eminent 
 physician, 4 which was the very best collec- 
 tion, especially of mathematical books, 
 that was I believe in Europe, once designed 
 for the King's Library at St. James's ; but 
 the Queen's dying, who was the great 
 patroness of that design, it was let fall, and 
 the books were miserably dissipated. 
 
 The new edition of Camden's Britannia 
 was now published (by Bishop Gibson), 
 with great additions ; those to Surrey were 
 mine, so that I had one presented to me. 5 
 
 1 [King Street extended from Richmond Terrace 
 to Bridge Street. It is now absorbed in Parlia- 
 ment Street, which carries out the King's scheme,] 
 
 2 [See infra, 8th March.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 412.] 4 See p. 170. 
 
 5 [Camden's Britannia was translated from the 
 original Latin in this year by Edmund Gibson, 
 
1695] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 437 
 
 Dr. Gale 2 showed a MS. of some parts of 
 the New Testament in vulgar Latin, that 
 had belonged to a monastery in the North 
 of Scotland, which he esteemed to be about 
 eight hundred years old ; there were some 
 considerable various readings observable, 
 as in John i. , and genealogy of St. Luke. 
 
 24th March. Easter -day. Mr. Dun- 
 comb, parson of this parish, preached, 
 which he hardly comes to above once a 
 year though but seven or eight miles off ; 2 
 a florid discourse, read out of his notes. 
 The Holy Sacrament followed, which he 
 administered with very little reverence, 
 leaving out many prayers and exhorta- 
 tions ; nor was there any oblation. This 
 ought to be reformed, but my good 
 brother did not well consider when 
 he gave away this living and the next 
 [Abinger]. 
 
 March. The latter end of the month 
 sharp and severe cold, with much snow 
 and hard frost ; no appearance of spring. 
 
 31^/. Mr. Lucas preached in the after- 
 noon at Wotton. 
 
 Jth April. Lord Halifax 3 died suddenly 
 at London, the day his daughter was 
 married to the Earl of Nottingham's son 
 at Burleigh. Lord H. was a very rich 
 man, very witty, and in his younger days 
 somewhat positive. 
 
 14th. After a most severe, cold, and 
 snowy winter, without almost any shower 
 for many months, the wind continuing N. 
 and E. and not a leaf appearing ; the 
 weather and wind now changed, some 
 showers fell, and there was a remission of 
 cold. 
 
 21st. The spring begins to appear, yet 
 the trees hardly leafed. — Sir T. Cooke 
 discovers what prodigious bribes have been 
 given by some of the East India Company 
 out of the stock, which makes a great 
 clamour. — Never were so many private 
 bills passed for unsettling estates, showing 
 the wonderful prodigality and decay of 
 families. 
 
 1669-1748, afterwards Archdeacon of Surrey and 
 Bishop of London. It was reprinted in 1753 and 
 1772. Evelyn's contributions to it are not noticed 
 in the list of his works.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 343.] 
 
 2 This was William Duncomb, Rector of Ash- 
 tead, in Surrey, not Mr. Duncomb, of Albury, 
 mentioned in pp. 435 and 438. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 223.] 
 
 $th May. I came to Deptford from 
 Wotton, in order to the first meeting of 
 the Commissioners for endowing an 
 Hospital for Seamen at Greenwich ; it 
 was at the Guildhall, London. Present, 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury, Lord- 
 Keeper, Lord Privy Seal, Lord Godolphin, 
 Duke of Shrewsbury, Duke of Leeds, 
 Earls of Dorset and Monmouth, Com- 
 missioners of the Admiralty and Navy, Sir 
 Robert Clayton, Sir Christopher Wren, 
 and several more. The Commission was 
 read by Mr. Lowndes, Secretary to the 
 Lords of the Treasury, Surveyor General. 1 
 
 17th. Second meeting of the Com- 
 missioners, and a Committee appointed to 
 go to Greenwich to survey the place, I 
 being one of them. 
 
 2 1 st. We went to survey Greenwich, 
 Sir Robert Clayton, 2 Sir Christopher 
 Wren, Mr. Travers, the King's Surveyor, 
 Captain Sanders, and myself. 
 
 24th. We made report of the state of 
 Greenwich House, and how the standing 
 part might be made serviceable at present 
 for ;£6ooo, and what ground would be 
 requisite for the whole design. My Lord- 
 Keeper ordered me to prepare a book for 
 subscriptions, and a preamble to it. 
 
 31J/. Met again. Mr. Vanbrugh 3 was 
 made Secretary to the Commission, by my 
 nomination of him to the Lords,, which 
 was all done that day. 
 
 ^th June. The Commissioners met at 
 Guildhall, when there were scruples and 
 contests of the Lord Mayor, 4 who would 
 not meet, not being named as one of the 
 quorum, so that a new Commission was 
 required, though the Lord-Keeper and the 
 rest thought it too nice a punctilio. 
 
 14M. Met at Guildhall, but could do 
 nothing for want of a quorum. 
 
 <yth July. At Guildhall ; account of 
 subscriptions, about 7 or ^8000. 
 
 6th. I dined at Lambeth, making my 
 first visit to the Archbishop, 5 where there 
 was much company, and great cheer. 
 
 1 [See/>ost, under 4th July, 1696, «.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 310.3 
 
 3 John Vanbrugh, 1664 - 1726, the dramatist, 
 architect of Blenheim and Castle Howard ; also 
 Clarencieux King at Arms, Comptroller of the 
 Board of Works, and Surveyor of Greenwich 
 Hospital. [He became Sir John in 1714.] 
 
 4 Sir William Ashurst, Knt. 
 
 5 [Dr. Tenison.] 
 
438 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1695 
 
 After prayers in the evening, my Lord 
 made me stay to show me his house, 
 furniture, and garden, which were all very 
 fine, and far beyond the usual Archbishops, 
 not as affected by this, but being bought 
 ready furnished by his predecessor. We 
 discoursed of several public matters, par- 
 ticularly of the Princess of Denmark, who 
 made so little figure. 
 
 \UhJidy. Met at Guildhall : not a full 
 Committee, so nothing done. 
 
 i\th. No sermon at Church ; but, after 
 prayers, the names of all the parishioners 
 were read, in order to gathering the tax of 
 4s. for marriages, burials, etc. A very 
 imprudent tax, especially this reading the 
 names, so that most went out of the 
 church. 
 
 igt/i. I dined at Sir Purbeck Temple's, 
 near Croydon ; x his lady is aunt to my 
 son - in - law, Draper ; the house exactly 
 furnished. Went thence with my son and 
 daughter to Wotton. — At Wotton, Mr. 
 Duncomb, parson of Albury, preached 
 excellently. 
 
 2&th. A very wet season. 
 
 1 ith August. The weather now so cold, 
 that greater frosts were not always seen in 
 the midst of winter ; this succeeded much 
 wet, and set harvest extremely back. 
 
 2$th September. Mr. Offley 2 preached 
 at Abinger ; too much of controversy on a 
 point of no consequence, for the country 
 people here. This was the first time I 
 had heard him preach. Bombarding |of 
 Cadiz ; a cruel and brutish way of making 
 war, first begun by the French. — The 
 season wet, great storms, unseasonable 
 harvest weather. — My good and worthy 
 friend, Captain Giftord, who that he 
 might g e t some competence to live 
 decently, adventured all he had in a 
 voyage of two years to the East Indies, 
 was, with another great ship, taken by 
 some French men-of-war, almost within 
 sight of England, to the loss of near 
 ,£70,000, to my great sorrow, and pity of 
 
 1 [See under 29th September.] 
 
 2 Rector of Abinger. This gentleman — says 
 Bray — gave good farms in Sussex for the better 
 endowment of Oakwood Chapel, a chapel of ease 
 for the lower parts of Abinger and Wotton, both of 
 which livings are in the gift of the owner of 
 Wotton ; many of the inhabitants thereabouts 
 being distant five miles from their parish churches, 
 and the roads also in winter being extremely bad. 
 
 his wife, he being also a valiant and in- 
 dustrious man. The losses of this sort to 
 the nation have been immense, and all 
 through negligence, and little care to 
 secure the same near our own coasts ; of 
 infinitely more concern to the public than 
 spending their time in bombarding and 
 ruining two or three paltry towns, without 
 any benefit, or weakening our enemies, 
 who, though they began, ought not to be 
 imitated in an action totally averse to 
 humanity, or Christianity. 
 
 29M. Very cold weather. — Sir Purbeck 
 Temple, uncle to my son Draper, died 
 suddenly. 1 A great funeral at Addis- 
 combe. His lady being own aunt to my 
 son Draper, he hopes for a good fortune, 
 there being no heir. There had been a 
 new meeting of the Commissioners about 
 Greenwich Hospital, on the new Com- 
 mission, where the Lord Mayor, etc., 
 appeared, but I was prevented by indis- 
 position from attending. The weather 
 very sharp, winter approaching apace. — 
 The King went a progress into the north, 
 to show himself to the people against the 
 elections, and was everywhere compli- 
 mented, except at Oxford, where it was 
 not as he expected, so that he hardly 
 stopped an hour there, and, having seen 
 the Theatre, did not receive the banquet 
 proposed. — I dined with Dr. Gale at St. 
 Paul's School, 2 who showed me many 
 curious passages out of some ancient 
 Platonists' MSS. concerning the Trinity, 
 which this great and learned person would, 
 publish, with many other rare things, if he 
 was encouraged, and eased of the burden 
 of teaching. 
 
 25M October. The Archbishop and my- 
 self went to Hammersmith, to visit Sir 
 Samuel Morland, 3 who was entirely blind ; 
 a very mortifying sight. He showed us 
 his invention of writing, which was very 
 ingenious ; also his wooden kalendar, 
 which instructed him all by feeling ; and 
 other pretty and useful inventions of mills, 
 pumps, etc. , and the pump he had erected 
 that serves water to his garden, and to 
 passengers, with an inscription, and brings 
 from a filthy part of the Thames near it a 
 most perfect and pure water. He had 
 newly buried ^200 worth of music-books 
 
 1 [See ante, under 19th July.] 
 
 2 See ante, p. 437. 3 [See ante, p. 257]. 
 
i6 9 6] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 439 
 
 six feet under ground, being, as he said, 
 love-songs and vanity. He plays himself 
 psalms and religious hymns on the theorbo. 
 Very mild weather the whole of October. 
 
 \oth November. Mr. Stanhope, 1 Vicar 
 of Lewisham, preached at Whitehall. He 
 is one of the most accomplished preachers 
 I ever heard, for matter, eloquence, action, 
 voice, and I am told, of excellent con- 
 versation. 
 
 i yh. Famous fireworks and very charge- 
 able, the King being returned from his 
 progress. He stayed seven or eight days 
 at Lord Sunderland's at Althorp, where 
 he was mightily entertained. These fire- 
 works were showed before Lord Romney, 
 master of the ordnance, 2 in St. James's 
 great square, where the King stood. 
 
 \*]th. I spoke to the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury to interest himself for restoring 
 a room belonging to St. James's library, 
 where the books want place. 
 
 2.1st. I went to see Mr. Churchill's 
 collection of rarities. 
 
 2yd. To Lambeth, to get Mr. Williams 3 
 continued in Boyle's lectures another year. 
 Amongst others who dined there was Dr. 
 Covel, 4 the great Oriental traveller. 
 
 1st December. I dined at Lord Sunder- 
 land's, now the great favourite and under- 
 hand politician, but not adventuring on 
 any character, being obnoxious to the 
 people for having twice changed his 
 religion. 
 
 2yd. The Parliament wondrous intent 
 on ways to reform the coin ; setting out a 
 Proclamation prohibiting the currency of 
 half-crowns, etc. ; which made much con- 
 fusion among the people. 
 
 25M. Hitherto mild, dark, misty weather. 
 Now snow and frost. 
 
 1695-6: 12th January. Great confusion 
 and distraction by reason of the clipped 
 money, and the difficulty found in reform- 
 ing it. 5 
 
 1 See ante, p. 433. 
 
 2 [Henry Sidney, Earl of Romney, 1641-1704, 
 was Master of the Ordnance in 1693.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 436.] 
 
 4 Dr. John Covel, 1638-1722, Master of Christ's 
 College, Cambridge, and Chancellor of York. He 
 wrote an account of the Greek Church, which he 
 published just before his death in 1722, in his 85th 
 year. [His manuscript travels are preserved in the 
 British Museum.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 435. An Act for improving the 
 coinage (7 and 8 Gul. III. c. 1) was now passed. 
 
 2nd February. An extraordinary wet 
 season, though temperate as to cold. — 
 The Royal Sovereign x man-of-war burnt 
 at Chatham. It was built in 1637, and 
 having given occasion to the levy of Ship- 
 money was perhaps the cause of all the 
 after- troubles to this day. — An earthquake 
 in Dorsetshire by Portland, or rather a 
 sinking of the ground suddenly for a large 
 space, near the quarries of stone, hindering 
 the conveyance of that material for the 
 finishing of St. Paul's. 
 
 2yd. They now began to coin new 
 money. 
 
 2&h. There was now a conspiracy 2 of 
 about thirty knights, gentlemen, captains, 
 many of them Irish and English Papists, 
 and Nonjurors or Jacobites (so called), to 
 murder King William on the first oppor- 
 tunity of his going either from Kensington, 
 or to hunting, or to the chapel ; and, 
 upon signal of fire to be given from Dover 
 Cliff to Calais, an invasion was designed. 
 In order to it there was a great army in 
 readiness, men-of-war and transports, to 
 join a general insurrection here, the Duke 
 of Berwick having secretly come to London 
 to head them, King James attending at 
 Calais with the French army. 3 It was 
 discovered by some of their own party. 
 ;£iooo reward was offered to whoever 
 could apprehend any of the thirty named. 
 Most of those who were engaged in it, 
 were taken and secured. The Parliament, 
 City, and all the nation congratulate the 
 discovery ; and votes and resolutions were 
 passed that, if King William should ever 
 be assassinated, it should be revenged on 
 the Papists and party through the nation ; 
 an Act of Association 4 drawing up to 
 empower the Parliament to sit on any 
 such accident, till the Crown should be 
 disposed of according to the late settle- 
 ment at the Revolution. All Papists, in 
 the meantime, to be banished ten miles 
 from London. This put the nation into 
 
 To defray the expense of withdrawing the clipped 
 coin, a sum of ,£1,200,000 was raised by a house- 
 duty.] 
 
 1 [See ante, p. n. She had been laid up to be 
 rebuilt a second time when she was accidentally 
 burnt, January 27, 1696.] 
 
 2 [That known as the "Assassination Plot."] 
 
 3 [The fleet under Russell threatened France, 
 and prevented the embarkation of the French 
 troops.] 
 
 4 [7 and 8 Gul. III. c. 27.] 
 
44© 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1696 
 
 an incredible disturbance and general 
 animosity against the French King and 
 King James. The militia of the nation 
 was raised, several regiments were sent for 
 out of Flanders, and all things put in a 
 posture to encounter a descent. This was 
 so timed by the enemy, that whilst we 
 were already much discontented by the 
 greatness of the taxes, and corruption of 
 the money, etc., we had like to have had 
 very few men-of-war near our coasts ; but 
 so it pleased God that Admiral Rooke 
 wanting a wind to pursue his voyage to 
 the Straits, that squadron, with others at 
 Portsmouth and other places, were still in 
 the Channel, and were soon brought up to 
 join with the rest of the ships which could 
 be got together, so that there is hope that 
 this plot may be broken. I look on it as 
 a very great deliverance and prevention by 
 the providence of God. Though many did 
 formerly pity King James's condition, this 
 design of assassination and bringing over 
 a French army, alienated many of his 
 friends, and was likely to produce a more 
 perfect establishment of King William. 
 
 1st March. The wind continuing N. 
 and E, all this week, brought so many of 
 our men-of-war together that, though most 
 of the French finding their design detected 
 and prevented, made a shift to get into 
 Calais and Dunkirk roads, we wanting 
 fireships and bombs to disturb them ; yet 
 they were so engaged among the sands 
 and flats, that 'tis said they cut their masts 
 and flung their great guns overboard to 
 lighten their vessels. We are yet upon 
 them. This deliverance is due solely to 
 God. French were to have invaded at 
 once England, Scotland, and Ireland. 
 
 8t/i. Divers of the conspirators tried 
 and condemned. 
 
 Vesuvius breaking out, terrified Naples. 
 —Three of the unhappy wretches, whereof 
 one was a priest, were executed 1 for in- 
 tending to assassinate the King ; they 
 acknowledged their intention, but acquitted 
 King James of inciting them to it, and died 
 very penitent. Divers more in danger, and 
 some very considerable persons. 
 
 Great frost and cold. 
 
 6tk April. I visited Mr. Graham in the 
 Fleet. 2 
 
 1 Robert Charnock, Edward King, and Thomas 
 Keys. 2 [See ante, p. 423.] 
 
 10th. The quarters of Sir William 
 Perkins and Sir John Friend, lately executed 
 on the plot, with Perkins's head, were set 
 up at Temple Bar, a dismal sight, which 
 many pitied. I think there never was such 
 at Temple Bar till now, except once in the 
 time of King Charles II., namely, of Sir 
 Thomas Armstrong. 1 
 
 12th. A very fine spring season. 
 
 19th. Great offence taken at the three 
 ministers 2 who absolved Sir William 
 Perkins and Friend at Tyburn. One of 
 them (Snatt) was a son of my old school- 
 master. 3 This produced much altercation 
 as to the canonicalness of the action. 
 
 21st. We had a meeting at Guildhall of 
 the Grand Committee about settling the 
 draught of Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 iyd. I went to Eton, and dined with 
 Dr. Godolphin, the provost. The school- 
 master assured me there had not been for 
 twenty years a more pregnant youth in that 
 place than my grandson. — I went to see the 
 ICing's House at Kensington. 4 It is very 
 noble, though not great. The gallery 
 furnished with the best pictures [from] all 
 the houses of Titian, Raphael, Correggio, 
 Holbein, Julio Romano, Bassano, Vandyck, 
 Tintoretto, and others ; a great collection of 
 porcelain; and a pretty private library. The 
 gardens about it very delicious. 
 
 26th. Dr. Sharp 5 preached at the 
 Temple. His prayer before the sermon 
 was one of the most excellent compositions 
 I ever heard. 
 
 2&th. The Venetian Ambassador made 
 a stately entry with fifty footmen, many 
 on horseback, four rich coaches, and a 
 numerous train of gallants. — More execu- 
 tions this week of the assassins. — Oates 
 dedicated a most villainous reviling book 
 against King James, 6 which he presumed 
 to present to King William, who could not 
 but abhor it, speaking so infamously and 
 untruly of his late beloved Queen's own 
 father. 
 
 2nd May. I dined at Lambeth, being 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 359.] 
 
 2 Jeremy Collier, William Snatt, and Mr. Cook, 
 all nonjuring clergymen. [Collier concealed him- 
 self and was outlawed ; Snatt and Cook were for a 
 time imprisoned.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 4.] 4 [See ante, p. 418.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 433.] 
 
 6 [Probably one of the pamphlets entitled Pictures 
 0/ King James . . . drawn to Li/e.\ 
 
1696] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOtiN EVELYN 
 
 441 
 
 summoned to meet my co-trustees, the Arch- 
 bishop, Sir Henry Ashurst, and Mr. Serjeant 
 Rotheram, 1 to consult about settling Mr. 
 Boyle's lecture for a perpetuity ; which we 
 concluded upon, by buying a rent-charge 
 °f £S° P er annum, with the stock in our 
 hands. 
 
 6tk May. I went to Lambeth, to meet 
 at dinner the Countess of Sunderland and 
 divers ladies. We dined in the Arch- 
 bishop's wife's apartment with his Grace, 
 and stayed late ; yet I returned to Deptford 
 at night. 
 
 13M. I went to London to meet my 
 son, newly come from Ireland, indisposed. 2 
 — Money still continuing exceeding scarce, 
 so that none was paid or received, but all 
 was on trust, the Mint not supplying for 
 common necessities. The Association with 
 an oath required of all lawyers and officers, 
 on pain of prcemunire y whereby men were 
 obliged to renounce King James as no 
 rightful king, and to revenge King William's 
 death, if happening by assassination. 3 This 
 to be taken by all the Counsel by a day 
 limited, so that the Courts of Chancery and 
 King's Bench hardly heard any cause in 
 Easter Term, so many crowded to take 
 the oath. This was censured as a very 
 entangling contrivance of the Parliament, 
 in expectation that many in high office 
 would lay down, and others surrender. 
 Many gentlemen taken up on suspicion of 
 the late plot, were now discharged out of 
 prison. 
 
 29th. We settled divers officers, and 
 other matters relating to workmen, for the 
 beginning of Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 1st June. I went to Deptford to dispose 
 of our goods, in order to letting the house 
 for three years to Vice- Admiral Benbow, 4 
 with condition to keep up the garden.. This 
 was done soon after. 
 
 qtk. A Committee met at Whitehall about 
 Greenwich Hospital, at Sir Christopher 
 Wren's, his Majesty's Surveyor -General. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 427.] 2 [See ante, p. 427.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 439.] 
 
 4 [Captain John Benbow, 1653-1702 (afterwards 
 (1701) Vice- Admiral). He had been wounded at 
 the bombardment of Calais in March of this year. 
 During his intervals of sea service he resided at 
 Deptford, having a house of his own in Hughes' 
 Fields (Dews' Deptford, 1884, p. 189). He was 
 not a " polite tenant " of Sayes Court ; but scarcely 
 as bad as Peter the Great. ] 
 
 We made the first agreement with divers 
 workmen and for materials ; and gave the 
 first order for proceeding on the founda- 
 tion, and for weekly payments to the work- 
 men, and a general account to be monthly. 
 
 1 Uh. Dined at Lord Pembroke's, Lord 
 Privy Seal, a very worthy gentleman. 1 He 
 showed me divers rare pictures of very 
 many of the old and best masters, especially 
 one of M. Angelo of a man gathering fruit 
 to give to a woman, and a large book of 
 the best drawings of the old masters. — Sir 
 John Fenwick, one of the conspirators, was 
 taken. 2 Great subscriptions in Scotland 
 to their East India Company. — Want of 
 current money to carry on the smallest 
 concerns, even for daily provisions in the 
 markets. Guineas lowered to twenty-two 
 shillings, and great sums daily transported 
 to Holland, where it yields more, with 
 other treasure sent to pay the armies, and 
 nothing considerable coined of the new 
 and now only current stamp, cause such a 
 scarcity that tumults are every day feared, 
 nobody paying or receiving money ; so 
 imprudent was the late Parliament to con- 
 demn the old though clipped and corrupted, 
 till they had provided supplies. To this 
 add the fraud of the bankers and gold- 
 smiths, who having gotten immense riches 
 by extortion, keep up their treasure in ex- 
 pectation of enhancing its value. Dun- 
 combe, not long since a mean goldsmith, 
 having made a purchase of the late Duke 
 of Buckingham's estate 3 at near ^90,000, 
 and reputed to have near as much in cash. 
 Banks and Lotteries every day set up. 
 
 18M. The famous trial between my 
 Lord Bath and Lord Montagu for an 
 estate of ;£ 11,000 a year, left by the Duke 
 of Albemarle, wherein on several trials 
 had been spent ^20,000 between them. 
 The Earl of Bath was cast on evident 
 forgery. 4 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 174.] 
 
 - He was taken at a house by the side of the road 
 from Great Bookham to Stoke d'Abernon, in Surrey, 
 near Slyfield-mill. So Bray was told by Evelyn's 
 great-grandson. 
 
 3 At Helmsley, in Yorkshire. 
 
 And Hemsley, once proud Buckingham's delight, 
 
 Slides to a Scriv'ner or a city-Knight. 
 
 Pope, Imitations of Horace, Sat. II. Bk. ii. I. 177. 
 
 [Sir Charles Duncombe changed the name to 
 Duncombe Park.] 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 432 ; and post, under 2nd Sep- 
 tember, 1 701.] 
 
442 
 
 THE DIARY OF JO HIST EVELYN 
 
 [1696 
 
 20th June. I made my Lord Cheyne 1 a 
 visit at Chelsea, and saw those ingenious 
 water-works invented by Mr. Winstanley, 2 
 wherein were some things very surprising 
 and extraordinary. 
 
 2.1st. An exceeding rainy, cold, un- 
 seasonable summer, yet the city was very 
 healthy. 
 
 25M. A trial in the Common Pleas 
 between the Lady Purbeck Temple 3 and 
 Mr. Temple, a nephew of Sir Purbeck, 
 concerning a deed set up to take place of 
 several wills. This deed was proved to be 
 forged. The cause went on my lady's side. 
 This concerning my son-in-law, Draper, I 
 staid almost all day at Court. A great 
 supper was given to the jury, being persons 
 of the best condition in Buckinghamshire. 
 
 30th. I went with a select Committee 
 of the Commissioners for Greenwich 
 Hospital, 4 and with Sir Christopher Wren, 
 where with him I laid the first stone of 
 the intended foundation, precisely at five 
 o'clock in the evening, after we had dined 
 together. Mr. Flamsteed, 1 ' 5 the King's 
 Astronomical Professor, observing the 
 punctual time by instruments. 
 
 dfth July. Note that my Lord Godol- 
 phin was the first of the subscribers who 
 paid any money to this noble fabric. 8 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 418.] 
 
 2 Henry Winstanley, 1644-1703, the architect who 
 built the Eddystone Lighthouse, and perished in it 
 when it was blown down by the great storm in 
 1703. 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 438.] 
 
 4 The Committee were Sir William Ashurst, Sir 
 Christopher Wren, Sir Thomas Lane, Sir Stephen 
 Evance, John Evelyn, William Draper, Dr. Cade, 
 Mr. Johnson, Mr. Thomas, Captain Gatteridge, 
 Mr. Firmin, Mr. Lake, and Captain Heath. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 306.] 
 
 6 Subscriptions to Greenwich Hospital ; 
 
 from Mr. Evelyn's Papers 
 
 ^2000 o o 
 500 o o 
 500 o o 
 
 of 
 
 The King 
 
 Archbishop of Can terbury . 
 
 Lord-Keeper Somers . 
 
 Duke of Leeds, President of the 
 
 Council ..... 
 Earl of Pembroke, Lord Privy Seal 
 Duke of Devonshire . 
 Duke of Shrewsbury, 'Secretary 
 
 State ..... 
 
 Earl of Romney .... 
 Earl of Dorset .... 
 Lord Montagu . . . 
 
 Lord Godolphin, First Commissione 
 
 of the Treasury 
 
 Carry forward 
 
 500 o o 
 
 500 o o 
 
 500 o o 
 
 500 o o 
 
 200 o o 
 
 500 o o 
 
 300 o o 
 
 200 o o 
 
 ,£6200 
 
 o 
 
 •jt/i. A northern wind altering the 
 weather with a continual and impetuous 
 rain of three days and nights, changed it 
 into perfect winter. 
 
 J2tk. Very unseasonable and uncertain 
 weather. 
 
 26th. So little money in the nation that 
 Exchequer Tallies, of which I had for 
 £2000 on the best fund in England, the 
 Post-Office, nobody would take at 30 per 
 cent discount. 
 
 yd Atigust. The Bank lending the 
 ^200,000 to pay the army in Flanders, 
 
 Brought forward 
 Mr. Montagu, Chancellor of the Ex 
 
 chequer . 
 Mr. Smith, Commissioner of the 
 
 Treasury .... 
 Lord Chief-Justice Holt 
 Sir. Ste. Fox, Commissioner of the 
 
 Treasury . 
 Earl of Ranelagh 
 Sir John Lowther 
 Mr. Priestman 
 Sir Geo. Rooke . 
 Sir John Houblon (see ante, p. 317) 
 Lord Chief-Justice Treby 
 Sir Wm. Trumball, Principal Secre 
 
 tary of State . 
 Sir Robt. Rich . 
 Sir Hen. Goodrick 
 Col. Austen . 
 Sir Tho. Lane 
 Sir Patience Ward 
 Sir William Ashurst . 
 Sir John Trevor, Master of the Rolls 
 Mr. Justice Rokeby . 
 Mr. Justice Powell 
 Mr. Justice Eyre . 
 Lord Chief Baron Ward 
 Mr. Justice Gregory . 
 Mr. Baron Powell 
 Earl of Portland . 
 Mr. Baron Powis 
 Sir Richard Onslow 
 Mr. Baron Lech more . 
 
 ,£6200 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 200 
 100 
 100 
 100 
 100 
 100 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 100 
 
 50 
 
 TOO 
 IOO 
 IOO 
 TOO 
 IOO 
 
 50 
 50 
 
 50 
 
 66 
 5° 
 5° 
 
 SOP 
 40 
 
 100 
 40 
 
 o o 
 
 o o 
 o o 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 13 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 O 
 o 
 
 V 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 4 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 £9046 13 4 
 
 " By the Committee for the fabric of Greenwich 
 Hospital, Nov. 4, 1696. — Expense of the work 
 already done, ,£5000 and upwards, towards which 
 the Treasurer had not received above ^800, so that 
 they must be obliged to stop the work unless there 
 can be a supply of money both from the tallies that 
 have been assigned for payment of his Majesty's 
 ^2000, and the money subscribed by several noble- 
 men and gentlemen ; the Secretary was ordered to 
 attend Mr. Lowndes, Secretary to the Lords of 
 the Treasury, to move for an order that the tallies 
 may be fixed on such fund as may be ready money, 
 or that the Treasurer of the Hospital may be 
 directed to dispose of them on the best terms he 
 can ; and that the Solicitor, with the Treasurer's 
 clerk, do attend the noblemen and gentlemen that 
 have subscribed, to acquaint them herewith." 
 
1698] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEL YN 
 
 443 
 
 that had done nothing against the enemy, 
 had so exhausted the treasure of the nation, 
 that one could not have borrowed money 
 under 14 or 15 per cent on bills, or on 
 Exchequer Tallies under 30 per cent. — 
 Reasonable good harvest -weather. — I went 
 to Lambeth and dined with the Arch- 
 bishop, who had been at Court on the 
 complaint against Dr. Thomas Watson, 
 Bishop of St. David's, who was suspended 
 for simony. 1 The Archbishop told me 
 how unsatisfied he was with the Canon- 
 law, and how exceedingly unreasonable 
 all their pleadings appeared to him. 
 
 September. Fine seasonable weather, 
 and a great harvest after a cold wet 
 summer. Scarcity in Scotland. 
 
 6th. I went to congratulate the marriage 
 of a daughter of Mr. Boscawen to the son 
 of Sir Philip Meadows ; she is niece to 
 my Lord Godolphin, married at Lambeth 
 by the Archbishop 30th August. — After 
 above six months' stay in London about 
 Greenwich Hospital, I returned to Wotton. 
 
 24M October. Unseasonable stormy 
 weather, and an ill seed-time. 
 
 November. Lord Godolphin retired from 
 the Treasury, who was the first Commis- 
 sioner and most skilful manager of all. 
 
 St/i. The first frost began fiercely, but 
 lasted not long. — More plots talked of. 
 Search for Jacobites so called. 
 
 1 5M — 23rd. Very stormy weather, rain, 
 and inundations. 
 
 13th December. Continuance of extreme 
 frost and snow. 
 
 1696-7: 17th January. The severe frost 
 and weather relented, but again froze 
 with snow. — Conspiracies continue against 
 King William. Sir John Fenwick was 
 beheaded. 2 
 
 Jth February. Severe frost continued 
 with snow. Soldiers in the armies and 
 garrison - towns frozen to death on their 
 posts. 
 
 [Here a leaf of the MS. is lost. ] 
 
 iyt/i August. I came to Wotton after 
 three months' absence. 
 
 September. Very bright weather, but 
 with sharp east wind. My son came from 
 London in his melancholy indisposition. 
 
 1 [Dr. Thomas Watson, 1637-1717. He was 
 found guilty and deprived of his see (see post, 
 under August, 1699).] a [See ante, p. 441.] 
 
 I ith. Mr. Duncomb, 1 the rector, came 
 and preached after an absence of two 
 years, though only living seven or eight 
 miles off [at Ashtead]. — Welcome tidings 
 of the Peace. 2 
 
 3rd October. So great were the storms 
 all this week, that near a thousand people 
 were lost going into the Texel. 
 
 16th November. The King's entry very 
 pompous ; but is nothing approaching that 
 of King Charles II. 
 
 2nd December. Thanksgiving- day for 
 the Peace. The King and a great Court 
 at Whitehall. The Bishop of Salisbury* 
 preached, or rather made a florid pane- 
 gyric, on 2 Chron. ix. 7, 8. — The evening 
 concluded with fireworks and illuminations 
 of great expense. 
 
 $tk. Was the first Sunday that St. 
 Paul's had had service performed in it 
 since it was burnt in 1666. 
 
 6th. I went to Kensington with the 
 Sheriff, Knights, and chief gentlemen of 
 Surrey, to present their address to the 
 King. The Duke of Norfolk promised to 
 introduce it, 4 but came so late, that it 
 was presented before he came. This in- 
 significant ceremony was brought in in 
 Cromwell's time, and has ever since con- 
 tinued with offers of life and fortune to 
 whoever happened to have the power. I 
 dined at Sir Richard Onslow's, 5 who treated 
 almost all the gentlemen of Surrey. When 
 we had half dined, the Duke of Norfolk 
 came in to make his excuse. 
 
 12th. At the Temple Church ; it was 
 very long before the service began, staying 
 for the Comptroller of the Inner Temple, 
 where was to be kept a riotous and revel- 
 ling Christmas, according to custom. 6 
 
 iSth. At Lambeth, to Dr. Bentley, 
 about the Library at St. James's. 7 
 
 23rd. I returned to Wotton. 
 1697-8. A great Christmas kept at 
 Wotton, open house, much company. I 
 presented my book of Medals, etc., to 
 divers Noblemen, before I exposed it to 
 sale. 8 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 437. ] 
 
 ^ [The Peace of Ryswyk.] 
 
 3 Dr. Burnet. 
 
 4 [He was Lord -Lieutenant of Norfolk, Berk- 
 shire, and Surrey.] 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 424.] 6 [See ante, p. 218.] 
 
 7 [Of which Bentley was keeper. ] 
 
 8 [Numismata. A Discourse of Medals, Antietit 
 a?id Modern. Together with some Accotint 0/ 
 
444 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1698 
 
 2nd January. Dr. Fulham, who lately 
 married my niece, 1 preached against Athe- 
 ism, a very eloquent discourse, somewhat 
 improper for most of the audience at 
 [Wotton], but fitted for some other place, 
 and very apposite to the profane temper of 
 the age. 
 
 5M. Whitehall burnt, nothing but walls 
 and ruins left. 2 
 
 30M. The imprisonment of the great 
 banker, Duncombe : censured by Parlia- 
 ment ; acquitted by the Lords ; sent again 
 to the Tower by the Commons. 3 
 
 The Czar of Muscovy being come to 
 England, and having a mind to see the 
 
 Heads and Effigies of illustrious, and famous 
 Persons, in Sculps, and Taille-douce, of whom we 
 have no Medals extant; and of the Use to be 
 derived from them. To which is added a Digres- 
 sion concerning Physiognomy. By J. Evelyn, 
 Esq., S.R.S. London, 1697, folio. Numismata 
 does not seem to have been reprinted (see "In- 
 troduction," and post, p. 476).] 
 
 1 [George Evelyn's daughter, Elizabeth.] 
 
 2 [In the Fourteenth Report of the Historical 
 Manuscripts Commission, Appendix, Part iii., 1894, 
 pp. 129-130 and 141, are several references to this 
 lire. Sir James Ogilvie writes to the Earl of 
 Marchmont, 5th January, 1698 : " All the palace 
 of Whytehall, at least what was built by King 
 Charles the Second and King James, is burned 
 downe." And Andrew Kineir also writes on the 
 same day: "All the royall apartments with the 
 King's chappell and gward hall, the Duke of 
 Shrewsbury's office, the Treasury Office, Council 
 Chamber, the late King's new chappell, the long 
 gallerys with Devonshire's, Essex's, and Villar's, 
 and severall other lodgings are all consumed. . . . 
 The best account we yet have of the occasion of it 
 was the neglect of a lawndress in Colonel Stanley's 
 lodgings near the river. There are five or six at 
 least destroyed by it, but no persons of any note." 
 From another account it would seem that the 
 Banqueting Hall and Lord Portland's lodgings were 
 almost all that was saved.] 
 
 3 25th Jan. 1697-98. Charles Duncombe, Esq., 
 M. P., afterwards Sir Charles (d. 17 n), was charged 
 with making false endorsements on Exchequer- 
 bills, and was committed close prisoner to the 
 Tower. 29th. Being ill, his apothecary and his 
 brother Anthony Duncombe were permitted to see 
 him. He confessed his guilt, and was expelled the 
 House. A Bill was brought in for seizure of his 
 estate, which was passed 26th Feb. after great 
 opposition, 138 against 103. 'It was entitled "An 
 Act for punishing C. Duncombe, Esq., for contriv- 
 ing and advising the making false endorsements of 
 several Bills made forth at Receipt of the Ex- 
 chequer commonly called Exchequer-Bills." This 
 being sent to the Lords, they desired a conference 
 with the Commons, and not being satisfied, though 
 he had acknowledged the fact, they discharged 
 him from the Tower. 31st March. The Commons 
 re-committed him. We do not find, -however, in 
 the Journals of the House of Commons, that any- 
 thing further was done. 
 
 building of ships, hired my house at Sayes 
 Court, 1 and made it his court and palace, 
 new furnished for him by the King. 
 
 21st April. The Czar went from my 
 house to return home.' 2 An exceeding 
 sharp and cold season. 
 
 Stk May. An extraordinary great snow 
 and frost, nipping the corn and other fruits. 
 Corn at nine shillings a bushel [^18 a 
 load]. 
 
 Tpth. I dined at Mr. Pepys', where I 
 heard the rare voice of Mr. Pule, who was 
 lately come from Italy, reputed the most 
 excellent singer we had ever had. He 
 sung several compositions of the late Dr. 
 Purcell. 3 
 
 $th June. Dr. White, late Bishop of 
 Norwich, who had been ejected for not 
 complying with Government, was buried 
 in St. Gregory's churchyard, or vault, at^ 
 St. Paul's. His hearse was accompanied 
 by two non-juror Bishops, Dr. Turner of 
 Ely, and Dr. Lloyd, with forty other non- 
 juror clergymen, who would not stay the 
 Office of the burial, because the Dean of 
 St. Paul's had appointed a conforming 
 minister to read the Office ; at which all 
 much wondered, there being nothing in 
 that Office which mentioned the present 
 King. 
 
 8th. I went to congratulate the marriage 
 of Mr. Godolphin 4 with the Earl of Marl- 
 borough's daughter. 
 
 1 [That is, Benbow sublet it.] While the Czar 
 Peter Was in his house, Evelyn's servant writes to 
 him: "There is a house full of people, and right 
 nasty. The Czar lies next your library, and dines 
 in the parlour next your study. He dines at ten 
 o'clock and six at night, is very seldom at home a 
 whole day, very often in the King's yard, or by 
 water, dressed in several dresses. The King is 
 expected here this day ; the best parlour is pretty 
 clean for him to be entertained in. The King 
 pays for all he has." 
 
 2 [According to Dews' Deptford, 2nd ed., 1884, 
 p. 183, there is ^or was) "in one of the old ship- 
 building sheds in the Dockyard, now used for 
 housing foreign cattle," "a plain wooden tablet, 
 on which is painted the following inscription : — 
 ' Here worked as a ship carpenter, Peter, Czar of 
 all the Russias, afterwards Peter the Great, 1698." 
 "A small thoroughfare" (adds Dews) "near the 
 old Dockyard gates is called Czar Street." While 
 at Deptford Peter occasionally attended the 
 
 §uakers' meeting in Gracechurch Street (White 
 art Court), and he was visited by Penn, White- 
 head, and other Friends.] 
 
 3 \D. 1695.] 
 
 4 [Francis Godolphin, whose education Evelyn 
 had superintended (see ante, p. 316).] 
 
1699] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 445 
 
 gtk June. To Deptford, to see how 
 miserably the Czar had left my house, after 
 three months making it his Court. I got 
 Sir Christopher Wren, the King's Surveyor, 
 and Mr. London 1 his gardener, to go and 
 estimate the repairs, for which they allowed 
 £150 in their report to the Lords of the 
 Treasury. I then went to see the founda- 
 tion of the Hall and Chapel at Greenwich 
 Hospital. 2 
 
 6tk August. I dined with Mr. Pepys, 
 where was Captain Dampier, 3 who had 
 been a famous buccaneer, had brought 
 hither the painted Prince Job, 4 and printed 
 a relation of his very strange adventure, 
 and his observations. He was now going 
 abroad again by the King's encouragement, 
 who furnished a ship of 290 tons. 5 He 
 seemed a more modest man than one would 
 imagine by the relation of the crew he had 
 assorted with. He brought a map of his 
 observations of the course of the winds in 
 the South Sea, and assured us that the 
 maps hitherto extant were all false as to 
 the Pacific Sea, which he makes on the 
 south of the line, that on the north end 
 running by the coast of Peru being ex- 
 tremely tempestuous. 
 
 2$th September. Dr. Foy came to me 
 to use my interest with Lord Sunderland 
 for his being made Professor of Physic at 
 Oxford, in the King's gift. I went also to 
 the Archbishop in his behalf. 
 
 ftk December. Being one of the Council 
 of the Royal Society, I was named to be 
 of the Committee to wait on our new 
 
 1 [George London (see ante, p. 434 «.). Benbow 
 had neglected the house and grounds ; but he was 
 nothing to his " Zarteh Majesty," who amused 
 himself inter alia by driving furiously on a wheel- 
 barrow through Evelyn's magnificent holly hedge, 
 four hundred feet long ? nine feet high, and five in 
 diameter (Sylva, bk. n. chap. vi.). In Wren's 
 survey Evelyn's losses were estimated at .£162 : 7s. ; 
 Benbow's, at ^158 12:6. But much of the damage 
 done was probably irreparable. Full particulars 
 are given in Dews' Deptford, 1884, pp. 33"3 8 .3 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 441. ] 
 
 3 William Dampier, 1652-1715. His Voyage 
 round the World (1697) has gone through many 
 editions, and the substance of it has been transferred 
 to many collections of voyages. 
 
 4 Giolo, of whom there is a very curious portrait, 
 engraved by Savage, to which is subjoined a 
 singular narrative of his wonderful adventures ; 
 there is also a smaller one, copied from the above, 
 prefixed to a fictitious account of his life, printed 
 in a 4to pamphlet. Evelyn mentions him in his 
 Numismata. 
 
 5 Noticed in Parliament. 
 
 president, the Lord Chancellor, 1 our Sec- 
 retary, Dr. Sloane, and Sir R. Southwell, 
 last Vice-president, carrying our books of 
 statutes ; the Office of the President being 
 read, his Lordship subscribed his name, 
 and took the oaths according to our statutes 
 as a Corporation for the improvement of 
 natural knowledge. Then his Lordship 
 made a short compliment concerning the 
 honour the Society had done him, and how 
 ready he would be to promote so noble a 
 design, and come himself among us, as 
 often as the attendance on the public would 
 permit ; and so we took our leave. 
 
 18M. Very warm, but exceeding 
 stormy. 
 
 1698-9 : January. My cousin Pierre - 
 pont died. 2 She was daughter to Sir John 
 Evelyn, of Wilts, my father's nephew ; she 
 was widow to William Pierrepont, brother 
 to the Marquis of Dorchester, and mother 
 to Evelyn Pierrepont, Earl of Kingston ; a 
 most excellent and prudent lady. 
 
 The House of Commons persist in re- 
 fusing more than 7000 men to be a stand- 
 ing army, and no strangers to be in the 
 number. This displeased the Court party. 
 Our county member, Sir R. Onslow, 3 
 opposed it also ; which might reconcile 
 him to the people, who began to suspect 
 him. 
 
 17th February. My grandson 4 went to 
 Oxford with Dr. Mander, the ^Master of 
 Balliol College, 5 where he was entered a 
 fellow-commoner. 
 
 19M. A most furious wind, such as has 
 not happened for many years, doing great 
 damage to houses and trees, by the fall of 
 which several persons were killed. 
 
 $th March. The old East India Com- 
 
 1 [Lord Somers.] 2 [See ante, p. 398.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 443. 1 
 
 4 [John Evelyn had* returned in 1696 from 
 Ireland (see ante, p. 441). Besides translating 
 Rapinus {ante, p. 289), he wrote a poem in Greek 
 hexameters, which is prefixed to the second edition 
 of his father's Sylva, 1670. He also translated 
 Plutarch's life of Alexander the Great, and (out of 
 the French of F. de Chassepol) the lives of the 
 Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Coprogli. 
 He was a contributor of verse to Dryden's Miscel- 
 lanies and Nichols's Collection. His marriage is 
 recorded at p. 324 of this volume ; his burial, infra, 
 30th March. John Evelyn, referred to above 
 (17th February) as being at Oxford, was his second 
 son. He succeeded his grandfather at Wotton, 
 was made a baronet in 1713, and died in 1763.] 
 
 5 Dr. Roger Mander was elected Master of his 
 College, in the place of Dr. John Venn, 1647-87. 
 
446 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1699 
 
 pany lost their business against the new 
 Company, by ten votes in Parliament, so 
 many of their friends being absent, going 
 to see a tiger baited by dogs. 
 
 The persecuted Vaudois, who were 
 banished out of Savoy, were received by 
 the German Protestant Princes. 
 
 24//* March. My only remaining son died 
 after a tedious languishing sickness, con- 
 tracted in Ireland, and increased here, to my 
 exceeding grief and affliction ; leaving me 
 one grandson, now at Oxford, whom I pray 
 God to prosper and be the support of the 
 Wotton family. He was aged forty-four 
 years and about three months. He had 
 been six years one of the Commissioners of 
 the Revenue in Ireland, with great ability 
 and reputation. 1 
 
 26th. After an extraordinary storm, 
 there came up the Thames a whale which 
 was fifty-six feet long. Such, and a larger 
 of the spout kind, was killed there forty 
 years ago (June, 1658). 2 That year died 
 Cromwell. 
 
 2pth. My deceased son was buried in 
 the vault at Wotton, according to his 
 desire. 
 
 The Duke of Devon lost ^1900 at a 
 horse-race at Newmarket. 
 
 The King preferring his young favourite 
 Earl of Albermarle 3 to be first Commander 
 of his Guard, the Duke of Ormonde laid 
 down his commission. This of the Dutch 
 Lord passing over his head, was exceedingly 
 resented by everybody. 
 
 Ap?-il. Lord Spencer purchased an in- 
 comparable library 4 of wherein, 
 
 among other rare books, were several that 
 were printed at the first invention of that 
 wonderful art, as particularly Tully's 
 Offices, etc. There was a Homer and a 
 Suidas in a very good Greek character and 
 good paper, almost » as ancient. This 
 gentleman is a very fine scholar, whom 
 from a child I have known. His tutor 
 was one Florival of Geneva. 
 
 29M. I dined with the Archbishop ; 
 but my business was to get him to persuade 
 the King to purchase the late Bishop of 
 Worcester's library at St. James's, in the 
 Park, the present one being too small. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 429.] 2 See ante, p. 198. 
 
 3 Arnold Joost Van Keppel, 1669-1718, first Earl 
 of Albemarle. 
 
 4 The foundation of the noble library now at 
 Blenheim. 
 
 lad May. At a meeting of the Royal 
 Society I was nominated to be of the 
 Committee to wait on the Lord Chancellor 
 to move the King to purchase the Bishop 
 of Worcester's library (Dr. Edward Stiiling- 
 fleet). 
 
 /\ih. The Court party have little in- 
 fluence in this Session. 
 
 Jtk. The Duke of Ormonde restored to 
 his commission. — All Lotteries, till now 
 cheating the people, to be no longer per- 
 mitted than to Christmas, except that for 
 the benefit of Greenwich Hospital. Mr. 
 Bridgman, chairman of the committee for 
 that charitable work, died ; a great loss 
 to it. He was Clerk of the Council, a very 
 industrious useful man. I saw the library 
 of Dr. John Moore, 1 Bishop of Norwich, 
 one of the best and most ample collections 
 of all sorts of good books in England, and 
 he, one of the most learned men. 
 
 iitk June. After a long drought, we 
 had a refreshing shower. The day before, 
 there was a dreadful fire at Rotherhithe, 
 near the Thames side, which burnt divers 
 ships, and consumed near three hundred 
 houses. — Now died the famous Duchess 
 Mazarin ; 2 she had been the richest lady 
 in Europe. She was niece of Cardinal 
 Mazarin, and was married to the richest 
 
 1 Dr. John Moore, 1646-1714, afterwards Bishop 
 of Ely. King George the First purchased this 
 library after the Bishop's death, for ^6000, and 
 presented it to the University of Cambridge, 
 where it now is. [The gift occasioned the following 
 epigrams : — 
 
 The King, observing with judicious eyes, 
 
 The state of both his universities, 
 
 To Oxford sent a troop of horse ; and why ? 
 
 That learned body wanted loyalty ; 
 
 To Cambridge books he sent, as well discerning 
 
 How much that loyal body wanted learning. 
 
 To this, attributed to Dr. Joseph Trapp, after- 
 wards first Professor of Poetry at Oxford, Sir 
 William Browne wrote the following extempore 
 and excellent reply : — 
 
 The King to Oxford sent a troop of horse, 
 For Tories own no argument but force ; 
 With equal skill to Cambridge books he sent, 
 For Whigs admit no force but argument.] 
 
 2 [2nd July, 1699, at Chelsea, in a small house 
 which she rented of Lord Cheyne. James II. had 
 continued her pension, as she was related to his 
 wife ; and William III. gave her ^2000. But her 
 prodigality was unbounded. According toLysons, 
 it was at last usual for the nobility and others, who 
 dined at her house, to leave money under their 
 plates to pay for their entertainment. (See ante, 
 P- 305-)] 
 
1699] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 447 
 
 subject in Europe, as is said. She was 
 born at Rome, educated in France, and 
 was an extraordinary beauty and wit, but 
 dissolute and impatient of matrimonial 
 restraint, so as to be abandoned by her 
 husband, and banished, when she came 
 into England for shelter, lived on a pension 
 given her here, and is reported to have 
 hastened her death by intemperate drinking 
 strong spirits. She has written her own 
 story and adventures, and so has her other 
 extravagant sister, wife to the noble family 
 of Colonna. 1 
 
 1 ythjutte. This week died Conyers Sey- 
 mour, son of Sir Edward Seymour, killed 
 in a duel caused by a slight affront in St. 
 James's Park, given him by one who was 
 envious of his gallantries ; for he was a 
 vain foppish young man, who made a 
 great eclat about town by his splendid 
 equipage and boundless expense. He was 
 about twenty- three years old ; his brother, 
 now at Oxford, inherited an estate of 
 £7000 a year, which had fallen to him not 
 two years before. 
 
 19M. My cousin, George Evelyn of 
 Nutfield, 2 died suddenly. 
 
 25M. The heat has been so great, 
 almost all this month, that I do not 
 remember to have felt much greater in 
 Italy, and this after a winter the wettest, 
 though not the coldest, that I remember 
 for fifty years last past. 
 
 28th. Finding my occasions called me 
 so often to London, I took the remainder 
 of the lease my son had in a house in 
 Dover Street, 3 to which I now removed, 
 not taking my goods from Wotton. 
 
 z^rd July. Seasonable showers, after a 
 continuance of excessive drought and heat. 
 
 August. I drank the Shooters' Hill 
 waters. 4 At Deptford, they had been 
 building a pretty new church. — The Bishop 
 of St. David's [Watson] deprived for 
 simony. 5 — The city of Moscow burnt by 
 the throwing of squibs. 
 
 1 [Marie Mancini, 1640-17 15. She had married 
 in 1661 the Prince of Colonna, Grand Constable of 
 Naples, and had separated from him.] 
 
 2 [B. 1641, — the fourth son of Sir John Evelyn 
 of Godstone, d. 1643, and heir to his brother, also 
 Sir John Evelyn, d. 1671.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 425-] 
 
 ■4 [Once famous. William Godbid wrote an 
 account of them in 1673.] 
 5 See ante, p. 443. 
 
 yd September. There was in this week 
 an eclipse of the sun, at which many 
 were frightened by the predictions of the 
 astrologers. I remember fifty years ago 
 that many were so terrified by Lilly, that 
 they durst not go out of their houses. — A 
 strange earthquake at New Batavia, in the 
 East Indies. 
 
 ^tk October. My worthy brother l died 
 at Wotton, in the 83rd year of his age, of 
 perfect memory and understanding. He 
 was religious, sober, and temperate, and 
 of so hospitable a nature, that i^> family 
 in the county maintained that ancient 
 custom of keeping, as it were, open house 
 the whole year in the same manner, or 
 gave more noble or free entertainment to 
 the county on all occasions, so that his 
 house was never free. There were some- 
 times twenty persons more than his family, 
 and some that stayed there all the summer, 
 to his no small expense ; by this he gained 
 the universal love of the county. He was 
 born at Wotton, went from the free-school 
 at Guildford to Trinity College, Oxford, 
 thence to the Middle Temple, as gentlemen 
 of the best quality did, but without inten- 
 tion to study the law as a profession. He 
 married the daughter of Caldwell, 2 of a 
 worthy and ancient family in Leicester- 
 shire, by whom he had one son ; she dying 
 in 1643, left George her son an infant, 
 who being educated liberally, after travel- 
 ling abroad, 3 returned and married one 
 Mrs. Gore, by whom he had several 
 children, but only three daughters survived. 
 He was a young man of good understand- 
 ing, but, over- indulging his ease and 
 pleasure, grew so very corpulent, contrary 
 to the constitution of the rest of his father's 
 relations, that he died. 4 My brother 
 afterwards married a noble and honourable 
 
 1 [George Evelyn of Wotton, d. 5th October, 
 1699, aged 82.] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 8. ] 
 
 3 In a letter to his nephew, George Evelyn, then 
 oh his travels in Italy, dated 30th March, 1664, 
 Evelyn tells him that his father complained of his 
 expenses, as much exceeding those of his own, 
 which were known to the young gentleman's father, 
 as all the money passed through his hands. He 
 says that when he travelled he kept a servant, 
 sometimes two, entertained several masters, and 
 made no inconsiderable collection of curiosities, all 
 within ,£300 j>er ann. — In the same letter, he 
 desires seeds of the ilex, phyllirea, myrtle, jessa- 
 mine, which he says are rare in England. 
 
 4 [In 1676.] 
 
448 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1699 
 
 lady, relict of Sir John Cotton, she being 
 an Offley, a worthy and ancient Stafford- 
 shire family, by whom he had several 
 children of both sexes. This lady died, 
 leaving only two daughters and a son. 
 The younger daughter died before marriage; 
 the other afterw.ards married Sir Cyril 
 Wyche, 1 a noble and learned gentleman, 
 
 son of Sir Wyche 2 (who had been 
 
 Ambassador of Constantinople), and was 
 afterwards made one of the Lords Justices 
 of Ireland. Before this marriage, her 
 
 only brother married the daughter of 
 
 Eversfleld, of Sussex, 3 of an honourable 
 family, but left a widow without any child 
 living; he died about 1691, and his wife 
 not many years after, and my brother 
 resettled the whole estate on me. His 
 sister, Wyche, had a portion of ^6000, to 
 which was added about ^300 more ; the 
 three other daughters, with what I added, 
 had about ^5000 each. My brother died 
 on the 5th October, in a good old age and 
 great reputation, making his beloved 
 daughter, Lady Wyche, sole executrix, 
 leaving me only his library and some 
 pictures of my father, mother, etc. She 
 buried him with extraordinary solemnity, 
 rather as a nobleman than as a private 
 gentleman. There were, as I computed, 
 above 2000 persons at the funeral, all the 
 gentlemen of the county doing him the 
 last honours. I returned to London, till 
 my lady should dispose of herself and 
 family. 
 
 2.\st October. After an unusual warm 
 and pleasant season, we were surprised 
 with a very sharp frost. I presented my 
 Acetariaf dedicated to my Lord Chancel- 
 lor, 5 who returned me thanks in an extra- 
 ordinary civil letter. 
 
 15M November. There happened this 
 week so thick a mist and fog, that people 
 lost their way in the streets, it being so 
 intense that no light of candles, or torches, 
 yielded any (or but very little) direction 
 I was in it, and in danger. Robberies 
 were committed between the very lights 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 428.] 
 
 2 [Sir Peter Wyche, d. 1643. He was English 
 Ambassador at Constantinople, 1627-39.] 
 
 a [See ante, p. 324.] 
 
 4 [Acetaria : a Discourse of Sallets. By J. E., 
 S.R.S. It is reprinted in the Miscellaneous 
 Writings, pp. 721-811.] 
 
 5 [Lord John Somers of Evesham.] 
 
 which were fixed between London and 
 Kensington on both sides, and whilst 
 coaches and travellers were passing. It 
 began about four in the afternoon, and was 
 quite gone by eight, without any wind to 
 disperse it. At the Thames, they beat 
 drums to direct the watermen to make the 
 shore. 
 
 iqt/i. At our chapel in the evening 
 there was a sermon preached by young 
 Mr. Horneck, 1 chaplain to Lord Guildford, 
 whose lady's funeral had been celebrated 
 magnificently the Thursday before. A 
 panegyric was now pronounced, describing 
 the extraordinary piety and excellently 
 employed life of this amiable young lady. 
 She died in childbed a few days before, to 
 the excessive sorrow of her husband, who 
 ordered the preacher to declare that it was 
 on her exemplary life, exhortations and 
 persuasion, that he totally changed the 
 course of his life, which was before in great 
 danger of being perverted ; following the 
 mode of this dissolute age. Her devotion, 
 early piety, charity, fastings, economy, 
 disposition of her time in reading, praying, 
 recollections in her own hand-writing of 
 what she heard and read, and her conversa- 
 tion were most exemplary. 
 
 24M. I signed Dr. Blackwall's election 
 to be the next year's Boyle Lecturer. 
 
 Such horrible robberies and murders 
 were committed, as had not been known 
 in this nation ; atheism, profaneness, 
 blasphemy, amongst all sorts, portended 
 some judgment if not amended ; on which 
 a society was set on foot, who obliged 
 themselves to endeavour the reforming of 
 it, in London and other places, and began 
 to punish offenders and put the laws in 
 more strict execution : which God Almighty 
 prosper ! 2 — A gentle, calm, dry, temperate 
 weather all this season of the year, but now 
 came sharp, hard frost, and mist, but 
 calm. 
 
 3rd December. Calm, bright, and warm 
 as in the middle of April. So continued 
 on 2 1 st Jan. — A great earthquake in 
 Portugal. 
 
 1 Of the character of this gentleman's father see 
 ante, p. 345. 
 
 2 [See post, under 24th March, 1700. There is a 
 history of these attempts in Josiah Woodward's 
 Account of the Societies for Reformation of 
 Manners, in London and Westminster and other 
 Parts, etc., 1699, 6th ed., 1744.] 
 
1700] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 449 
 
 The Parliament reverses the prodigious 
 donations of the Irish forfeitures, which 
 were intended to be set apart for discharging 
 the vast national debt. They called some 
 great persons in the highest offices in 
 question for setting the Great Seal to the 
 pardon of an arch-pirate, 1 who had turned 
 pirate again, and brought prizes into the 
 West Indies, suspected to be connived at 
 on sharing the prey ; but the prevailing 
 part in the House called Courtiers, out- 
 voted the complaints, not by being more in 
 number, but by the country-party being 
 negligent in attendance. 
 
 1 699- 1 700 : 14/^ January. Dr. Lan- 
 caster, Vicar of St. Martin's, dismissed 
 Mr. Stringfellow, 2 who had been made the 
 first preacher at our chapel by the Bishop 
 of Lincoln [Dr. Tenison, now Archbishop], 
 whilst he held St. Martin's by dispensation, 
 and put in one Mr. Sandys, much against 
 the inclination of those who frequented the 
 chapel. — The Scotch book about Darien 
 was burnt by the hangman by vote of 
 Parliament. 3 
 
 21st. Died the Duke of Beaufort, 4 a 
 person of great honour, prudence, and 
 estate. 
 
 25//Z. I went to Wotton, the first time 
 after my brother's funeral, to furnish the 
 house with necessaries, Lady Wyche and 
 my nephew Glanville, the executors, having 
 sold and disposed of what goods were there 
 of my brother's. — The weather was now 
 altering into sharp and hard frost. 
 
 One Stephens, 5 who preached before the 
 
 1 The notorious Captain William Kidd. He was 
 hanged in 1701 with some of his accomplices. This 
 was one of the charges brought by the Commons 
 against Lord Somers. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 425.] 
 
 3 The volume alluded to was An Enquiry into 
 t/ie causes of tJie Miscarriage of the Scots Colony 
 at Darien: Or an Answer to a Libel, entituled, 
 A Defence of the Scots abdicating Darien. See 
 Votes of the House of Commons, 15th January, 
 1699-1700. 
 
 * Henry Somerset, 1629-1700, the first Duke, who 
 exerted himself against the Monmouth Rebellion 
 in 1685, and in 1688 endeavoured to secure Bristol 
 against the adherents of the Prince of Orange ; 
 upon whose elevation to the throne, the Duke, 
 refusing to take the oaths, lived in retirement till 
 his death. 
 
 5 William Stephens, 1647-1718, Rector of Sutton, 
 in Surrey. After the censure of his sermon by the 
 House of Commons, he published it as in defiance. 
 [He had written in 1696 an Account of the Growth 
 of Deism in England. .] 
 
 House of Commons on King Charles's 
 Martyrdom, told them that the observation 
 of that day was not intended out of any 
 detestation of his murder, but to be a 
 lesson to other Kings and Rulers, how they 
 ought to behave themselves towards their 
 subjects, lest they should come to the same 
 end. This was so resented that, though it 
 was usual to desire these anniversary- 
 sermons to be printed, they refused thanks 
 to him, and ordered that in future no one 
 should preach before them, who was not 
 either a Dean or a Doctor of Divinity. 
 
 4/k February. The Parliament voted 
 against the Scots settling in Darien as 
 being prejudicial to our trade with Spain. 
 They also voted that the exorbitant number 
 of attorneys be lessened (now indeed 
 swarming, and evidently causing law-suits 
 and disturbance, eating out the estates of 
 people, provoking them to go to law). 
 
 \%th. Mild and calm season, with gentle 
 frost, and little mizzling rain. The Vicar 
 of St. Martin's frequently preached at 
 Trinity chapel in the afternoon. 
 
 Slk March. The season was like April 
 for warmth and mildness. — wth. On 
 Wednesday, was a sermon at our chapel, 
 to be continued during Lent. 
 
 13th. I was at the funeral of my Lady 
 Temple, 1 who was buried at Islington, 
 brought from Addiscombe, near Croydon. 
 She left my son-in-law Draper (her 
 nephew) 2 the mansion-house of Addis- 
 combe, very nobly and completely furnished ,, 
 with the estate about it, with (plate and 
 jewels, to the value in all of about ^20,000. 
 She was a very prudent lady, gave many 
 great legacies, with ^500 to the poor of 
 Islington, where her husband, Sir Purbeck 
 Temple, was buried, both dying without 
 issue. 
 
 24th. The season warm, gentle, and 
 exceeding pleasant. — Divers persons of 
 quality entered into the Society for 
 Reformation of Manners ; 3 and some 
 
 1 [Widow of Sir Purbeck Temple (see ante, 
 p. 442).] 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 438.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 448. " By this Society some 
 thousands of offenders were brought to justice, and 
 subjected to various penalties, such as whipping, 
 imprisonment, and the payment of fines. Consider- 
 able sums of money, obtained from these de- 
 linquents, were from time to time given to the 
 poor. After being for several years a terror to evil- 
 doers, this Society was paralysed, and at length 
 
 2G 
 
45° 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1700 
 
 lectures were set up, particularly in the 
 City of London. The most eminent of 
 the Clergy preached at Bow Church, after 
 reading a declaration set forth by the King 
 to suppress the growing wickedness ; this 
 began already to take some effect as to 
 common swearing, and oaths in the mouths 
 of people of all ranks. 
 
 2$t/i March. Dr. Burnet preached to-day 
 before the Lord Mayor and a very great con- 
 gregation, on Proverbs xxvii. 5, 6 : " Open 
 rebuke is better than secret love ; the 
 wounds of a friend are better than the 
 kisses of an enemy." He made a very 
 pathetic discourse concerning the necessity 
 and advantage of friendly correction. 
 
 April. The Duke of Norfolk now 
 succeeded in obtaining a divorce from his 
 wife 1 by the Parliament for adultery with 
 Sir John Germaine, a Dutch gamester, of 
 mean extraction, who had got much by 
 gaming ; the Duke had leave to marry 
 again, so that if he should have children, 
 the Dukedom will go from the late Lord 
 Thomas's children, Papists indeed, but 
 very hopeful and virtuous gentlemen, as 
 was their father. The now Duke their 
 uncle is a Protestant. 
 
 The Parliament nominated fourteen 
 persons to go into Ireland as Commissioners 
 to dispose of the forfeited estates there, 
 towards payment of the debts incurred by 
 the late war, but which the King had in 
 great measure given to some of his favourites 
 of both sexes, Dutch and others of little 
 merit, and very unseasonably. That this 
 might be done without suspicion of interest 
 in the Parliament, it was ordered that no 
 member of either House should be in the 
 Commission. — The great contest between 
 the Lords and Commons concerning the 
 Lords' power of amendments and rejecting 
 bills tacked to the money-bill, carried for 
 the Commons. However, this tacking of 
 bills is a novel practice, suffered by King 
 Charles II., who, being continually in want 
 of money, let anything pass rather than 
 not have wherewith to feed his extrava- 
 gance. This was carried but by one voice 
 in the Lords, all the Bishops following the 
 Court, save one : so that near sixty bills 
 
 broken up, by an adverse decision in one of the 
 civil courts" (Wesley's Journal, 1901, i. p. xiv., 
 Introductory Essay).] 
 1 [See ante, p. 307.] 
 
 passed, to the great triumph of the Commons 
 and Country- party, but high regret of the 
 Court, and those to whom the King had 
 given large estates in Ireland. Pity it is, 
 that things should be brought to this 
 extremity, the government of this nation 
 being so equally poised between King and 
 subject ; but we are satisfied with nothing : 
 and, whilst there is no perfection on this 
 side Heaven, methinks both might be 
 contented without straining things too far. 
 Amongst the rest, there passed a law as 
 to Papists' estates, that if one turned not 
 Protestant before eighteen years of age, it 
 should pass to his next Protestant heir. 
 This indeed seemed a hard law, but not 
 only the usage of the French King to his 
 Protestant subjects, but the indiscreet 
 insolence of the Papists here, going in 
 triumphant and public processions with 
 their Bishops, with banners and trumpets 
 in divers places (as is said) in the northern 
 counties, has brought it on their party. 
 
 24th. This week there was a great 
 change of State-officers. — The Duke of 
 Shrewsbury resigned his Lord Chamberlain- 
 ship to the Earl of Jersey, the Duke's 
 indisposition requiring his retreat. Mr. 
 Vernon, Secretary of State, was put out. 
 — The Seal was taken from the Lord 
 Chancellor Somers, 1 though he had been 
 acquitted by a great majority of votes for 
 what was charged against him in the House 
 of Commons. 2 This being in term-time, 
 put some stop to business, many eminent 
 lawyers refusing to accept the office, con- 
 sidering the uncertainty of things in this 
 fluctuating conjecture. It is certain that 
 this Chancellor was a most excellent 
 lawyer, very learned in all polite literature, 
 a superior pen, master of a handsome style, 
 and of easy conversation ; but he is said to 
 make too much haste to be rich, as his 
 predecessor, and most in place in this age 
 did, to a more prodigious excess than was 
 ever known. But the Commons had now 
 so mortified the Court-party, and property 
 and liberty were so much invaded in all 
 the neighbouring kingdoms, that their 
 
 1 [" His opponents retaliated on him his partisan 
 conduct to the magistrates who did not sign the 
 Association (see ante, p. 439), and struck his name 
 out of the commission of the peace, even for his 
 native county (Worcester), where he had large 
 estates" (Annals of England, 1876, p. 521).] 
 
 2 Post, p. 453. 
 
1700] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 45 1 
 
 jealousy made them cautious, and every 
 day strengthened the law which protected 
 the people from tyranny. 
 
 A most glorious spring, with hope of 
 abundance of fruit of all kinds, and a 
 propitious year. 
 
 10th May. The great trial between Sir 
 Walter Clarges and Mr. Sherwin concern- 
 ing the legitimacy of the late Duke of 
 Albemarle, on which depended an estate of 
 ^"1500 a year; the verdict was given for 
 Sir Walter. 1 — 19M. Serjeant Wright 2 at 
 last accepted the Great Seal. 
 
 24M. I went from Dover Street to 
 Wotton, for the rest of the summer, and 
 removed thither the rest of my goods from 
 Sayes Court. 
 
 2nd June. A sweet season, with a 
 mixture of refreshing showers. 
 
 gtk — i6i/i. In the afternoon, our clergy- 
 man had a Catechism, which was con- 
 tinued for some time. 
 
 July. I was visited with illness, but it 
 pleased God that I recovered, for which 
 praise be ascribed to Him by me, and that 
 He has again so graciously advertised me 
 of my duty to prepare for my latter end, 
 which at my great age cannot be far off. 
 
 The Duke of Gloucester, son of the 
 Princess Anne of Denmark, died of the 
 small-pox. 3 
 
 13//&. I went to Marden, which was 
 originally a barren warren bought by Sir 
 Robert Clayton, 4 who built there a pretty 
 house, and made such alteration by plant- 
 ing not only an infinite store of the best 
 fruit ; but so changed the natural situation 
 of the hill, valleys, and solitary mountains 
 about it, that it rather represented some 
 foreign country, which would produce 
 
 1 [Monck's "laundress-Duchess," Ann Clarges, 
 had previously heen married to one Thomas 
 Ratford, "of whose death no notice was given at 
 the time of the marriage [to Monck], so that the 
 legitimacy of Christopher, afterwards second Duke 
 of Albemarle, was seriously questioned " (Wheatley's 
 Samuel Pepys and the World he lived in, 1880, 
 p. 184).] 
 
 2 Sir Nathan Wright, 1654-1721, appointed Lord- 
 Keeper, who purchased the manor of, and resided 
 at, Gothurst, near Newport Pagnell, Bucks. He 
 lies buried in that church, in which are whole- 
 length figures in white marble of the Lord-Keeper 
 in his robes, and his son, George Wright, Esquire, 
 Clerk of the Crown, in his official dress. 
 
 3 [He died July 30. As be was the heir-pre- 
 sumptive, new measures became necessary to secure 
 the Protestant succession.] 4 See ante, p. 310. 
 
 spontaneously pines, firs, cypress, yew, 
 holly, and juniper ; they were come to 
 their perfect growth, with walks, mazes, 
 etc., amongst them, and were preserved 
 with the utmost care, so that I who had 
 seen it some years before in its naked and 
 barren condition, was in admiration of it. 
 The land was bought of Sir John Evelyn, 
 of Godstone, and was thus improved for 
 pleasure and retirement by the vast charge 
 and industry of this opulent citizen. — He 
 and his lady received us with great civility. 
 The tombs in the church at Croydon of 
 Archbishops Grindal, Whitgift, and other 
 Archbishops, are fine and venerable ; but 
 none comparable to that of the late Arch- 
 bishop Sheldon, which, being all of white 
 marble, and of a stately ordinance and 
 carvings, far surpassed the rest, and I 
 judge could not cost less than ^"700 or 
 £800. ! 
 
 20th. September. I went to Beddington, 2 
 the ancient seat of the Carews, in my 
 remembrance a noble old structure, capaci- 
 ous, and in form of the buildings of the 
 age of Henry VIII. and Queen Elizabeth, 
 and proper for the old English hospitality, 
 but now decaying with the house itself, 
 heretofore adorned with ample gardens, 
 and the first orange trees that had been 
 seen in England, planted in the open 
 ground, and secured in winter only by a 
 tabernacle of boards and stoves removable 
 in summer, that, standing 120 years, large 
 and goodly trees, and laden with fruit, 
 were now in decay, as well as the grotto, 
 fountains, cabinets, and other curiosities in 
 the house and abroad, it being now fallen 
 to a child under age, and only kept by a 
 servant or two from utter dilapidation. 
 The estate and park about it also in decay. 
 
 2.yd. I went to visit Mr. Pepys at 
 Clapham, where he has a very noble and 
 wonderfully well-furnished house, 3 especi- 
 ally with Indian and Chinese curiosities. 
 The offices and gardens well accom- 
 modated for pleasure and retirement. 
 
 1 There is a print of this very beautiful monu- 
 ment in Lysons' Environs of London, article Croy- 
 don, 2nd ed., 1811, vol. i. p. 131. In the same 
 volume, p. 34, etc., will be found also an ample 
 account of the family of Carew, named in the suc- 
 ceeding entry, and of the house as it then was, 
 together with a portrait of Sir Nicholas Carew, 
 views of the church, monuments, etc. 
 
 - [See ante, p. 4.] 3 [See ante, p. 429. 
 
45 2 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1701 
 
 ^ist October. My birthday, now com- 
 pleted the 80th year of my age. I with 
 my soul render thanks to God, who, of 
 His infinite mercy, not only brought me 
 out of many troubles, but this year restored 
 me to health, after an ague and other 
 infirmities of so great an age, my sight, 
 hearing, and other senses and faculties 
 tolerable, which I implore Him to con- 
 tinue, with the pardon of my sins past, 
 and grace to acknowledge by my improve- 
 ment of His goodness the ensuing year, if 
 it be His pleasure to protract my life, that 
 I may be the better prepared for my last 
 day, through the infinite merits of my 
 blessed Saviour, the Lord Jesus, Amen ! 
 
 $tk November. Came the news of my 
 dear grandson (the only male of my family 
 now remaining) being fallen ill of the 
 small-pox at Oxford, 1 which after the dire 
 effects of it in my family exceedingly 
 afflicted me ; but so it pleased my most 
 merciful God that being let blood at his 
 first complaint, and by the extraordinary 
 care of Dr. Mander (Head of the college 
 and now Vice-Chancellor), 2 who caused 
 him to be brought and lodged in his own 
 bed and bedchamber, with the advice of 
 his physician and care of his tutor, there 
 were all fair hopes of his recovery, to our 
 infinite comfort. We had a letter every 
 day either from the Vice-Chancellor him- 
 self, or his tutor. 
 
 17th. Assurance of his recovery by a 
 letter from himself. 
 
 There was a change of great officers at 
 Court. Lord Godolphin returned to his 
 former station of first Commissioner of the 
 Treasury ; Sir Charles Hedges Secretary 
 of State. 
 
 30M. At the Royal Society, Lord 
 Somers, the late Chancellor, was continued 
 President. 
 
 %th December. Great alterations of 
 officers at Court, and elsewhere — Lord 
 Chief Justice Treby died ; 3 he was a 
 learned man in his profession, of which we 
 have now few, never fewer ; the Chancery 
 requiring so little skill in deep law-learning, 
 if the practiser can talk eloquently in that 
 Court ; so that probably few care to study 
 the law to any purpose. — Lord Marl- 
 borough Master of the Ordnance, in place 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 445.] 2 [See ante, p. 445.] 
 
 3 [Sir George Treby, 1644-1700.] 
 
 of Lord Romney made Groom of the 
 Stole. The Earl of Rochester goes Lord- 
 Lieutenant to Ireland. 
 
 1 700- 1 : January. I finished the sale of 
 North Stoke in Sussex to Robert Michell, 
 Esq. , appointed by my brother to be sold 
 for payment of portions to my nieces, and 
 other incumbrances on the estate. 
 
 qt/i. An exceeding deep snow, and 
 melted away as suddenly. 
 
 19th. Severe frost, and such a tempest 
 as threw down many chimneys, and did 
 great spoil at sea, and blew down above 
 twenty trees of mine at Wotton. 
 
 gtk February. The old Speaker laid 
 aside, 1 and Mr. Harley, 2 an able gentle- 
 man, chosen. Our countryman, Sir Richard 
 Onslow, had a party for him. 
 
 27th. By an order of the House of Com- 
 mons, I laid before the Speaker the state of 
 what had been received and paid towards 
 the building of Greenwich Hospital. 3 
 
 1 Sir Thomas Lyttelton, Bart. 
 
 2 Robert Harley, 1661-1724, Speaker in three 
 Parliaments in the x-eign of Queen Anne, Secretary 
 of State, Lord High Treasurer ; attempted to be 
 stabbed by Guiscard, a Frenchman, under examina- 
 tion before the Lords of the Privy Council. After- 
 wards created Earl of Oxford and Mortimer ; 
 impeached upon the succession of the House of 
 Hanover. 
 
 3 John Evelyn, Esq., Dr. to Greenwich 
 Hospital. 
 Received in the year — 
 
 1696 ..... ,£3,416 o o 
 
 1697 6,836 16 3 
 
 1698 14,967 8 4 
 
 1699 14,024 13 4 
 
 1700 19, 241 1 3 
 
 1701, June 16 . . . 10,834 2 3 
 
 ^69,320 1 5 
 
 Per Contra, Creditor. 
 By the AccOmpt in 
 
 1696 ... . £5,91$ 18 
 
 1697 
 
 1698 
 1699 
 1700 
 1701 
 Remain in Cash 
 
 8,971 10 
 
 11,585 15 
 
 19,614 9 
 
 18,013 8 
 
 3,000 o 
 
 219 1 
 
 ^69,320 
 69,320 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 4 
 
 1 
 8 
 
 5 
 o 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 Remain in Lottery "| 
 Tickets to be paid ',-,£11,434 
 in ten years j 
 
 More in Malt Tickets 1,000 
 
 £69,320 
 
 12,434 
 
 In all ^81,754 
 
 Besides His Majesty ,£6,000, and Subscriptions. 
 
i7oi] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 453 
 
 Mr. Wye, Rector of Wotton, died, a 
 very worthy good man. I gave it to 
 Dr. Bohun, 1 a learned person and excel- 
 lent preacher, who had been my son's 
 tutor, and lived long in my family. 
 
 \%th March. I let Sayes Court to Lord 
 Carmarthen, 2 son to the Duke of Leeds. — 
 2&th. I went to the funeral of my sister 
 Draper, 3 who was buried at Edmonton in 
 great state. Dr. Davenant displeased the 
 clergy now met in Convocation by a 
 passage in his book, p. 40. 4 
 
 April. A Dutch boy of about eight or 
 nine years old was carried about by his 
 parents to show, who had about the iris of 
 one eye, the letters of Deus metis, and of 
 the other Elohim, in the Hebrew char- 
 acter. How this was done by artifice none 
 could imagine ; his parents affirming that 
 he was so born. It did not prejudice his 
 sight, and he seemed to be a lively playing 
 boy. Everybody went to see him ; physi- 
 cians and philosophers examined it with 
 great accuracy, some considered it as arti- 
 ficial, others as almost supernatural. 
 
 4//1. The Duke of Norfolk 5 died of an 
 apoplexy, and Mr. Thomas Howard 6 of 
 complicated disease since his being cut for 
 the stone ; he was one of the Tellers of 
 the Exchequer. Mr. How made a Baron. 
 
 May. Some Kentish men delivering a 
 petition to the House of Commons, were 
 imprisoned. 7 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 239.] 2 [See ante, p. 418.] 
 
 3 Mother of Evelyn's son-in-law (see ante, p. 431). 
 
 4 Charles Davenant, LL.D., 1656-1714 (son of 
 Sir William). The book was, Essays upon the 
 Balance of Power, and the objectionable passage 
 was that in which he says that many of those lately 
 in power have used their utmost endeavours to 
 discountenance all revealed religion. "Are not 
 many of us able to point to several persons, whom 
 nothing has recommended to places of the highest 
 trust, and often to rich benefices and dignities, but 
 the open enmity which they have, almost from 
 their cradles, professed to the Divinity of Christ?" 
 The Convocation on reading the book, ordered 
 papers to be fixed on several doors in Westminster 
 Abbey, inviting the author, whoever he be, or any 
 one of the many, to point out such persons, that 
 they may be proceeded against. 
 
 5 [See ante, p. 450.] 
 
 6 [Son of Sir Robert Howard (see ante, p. 424).] 
 
 7 Justinian Champneys, Thomas Culpepper, 
 William Culpepper, William Hamilton, and David 
 Polhill, gentlemen of considerable property and 
 family in the county. There is a very good print 
 of them in five ovals on one plate, engraved by 
 R. White, in 1701. The petitioners desired the 
 Parliament to mind the public more, and their 
 
 A great dearth, no considerable rain 
 having fallen for some months. ! 
 
 ijt/i. Very plentiful showers, the wind 
 coming west and south. — The Bishops and 
 Convocation at difference concerning the 
 right of calling the assembly and dissolving. 
 Atterbury 1 and Dr. Wake 2 writing one 
 against the other. 
 
 20th June. The Commons demanded a 
 conference with the Lords on the trial of 
 Lord Somers, which the Lords refused, and 
 proceeding on the trial, the Commons 
 would not attend, and he was acquitted. 3 
 
 22?id. I went to congratulate the arrival 
 of that worthy and excellent person my 
 Lord Galway, newly come out of Ireland, 
 where he had behaved himself so honestly, 
 and to the exceeding satisfaction of the' 
 people ; but he was removed thence for 
 being a Frenchman, 4 though they had not 
 a more worthy, valiant, discreet, and trusty 
 person in the two kingdoms, on whom they 
 could have relied for his conduct and fit- 
 ness. He was one who had deeply 
 suffered, as well as the Marquis his father, 
 for being Protestants. 5 
 
 July. My Lord Treasurer made my 
 grandson 6 one of the Commissioners of the 
 prizes, salary ^500 per annum. 
 
 %th. My grandson went to Sir Simon 
 Harcourt, the Solicitor-General, to Wind- 
 sor, to wait on my Lord Treasurer. There 
 had been for some time a proposal of 
 marrying my grandson to a daughter of 
 Mrs. Boscawen, 7 sister of my Lord Trea- 
 surer, which was now far advanced. 
 
 1 4/ h July. I subscribed towards re- 
 building Oakwood Chapel, 8 now, after 200 
 years, almost fallen down. 
 
 August. The weather changed from 
 heat not much less than in Italy or Spain 
 for some few days, to wet, dripping, and 
 cold, with intermissions of fair. 
 
 private heats less. The presenters were confined 
 till the prorogation, and were much visited. Burnet 
 gives an account of them {History of His Own 
 Time, 1734, ii. 275). 
 
 1 Afterwards Bishop of Rochester. 
 
 2 Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 3 Ante, p. 450. 
 
 4 [See ante, p. 392. He was killed at the battle 
 of Alinanza.] 
 
 5 Ante, p. 392. 
 
 6 [John Evelyn.] 
 
 7 [John Evelyn married, 18th September, 1705, 
 Anne, daughter of Edward Boscawen, d. 1751.] 
 
 8 [See ante, p. 438.] 
 
454 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1702 
 
 2nd September. I went to Kensington, 
 and saw the house, plantations, and gar- 
 dens, the work of Mr. Wise, 1 who was 
 there to receive me. 
 
 The death of King James happening on 
 the 15th of this month, N.S., 2 after two or 
 three days' indisposition, put an end to 
 that unhappy Prince's troubles, after a 
 short and unprosperous reign, indiscreetly 
 attempting to bring in Popery, and make 
 himself absolute, in imitation of the 
 French, hurried on by the impatience of 
 the Jesuits ; which the nation would not 
 endure. 
 
 Died the Earl of Bath, 3 whose contest 
 with Lord Montagu about the Duke of 
 Albemarle's estate, claiming under a will 
 supposed to have been forged, is said to 
 have been worth ^"10,000 to the lawyers. 
 His eldest son shot himself a few days 
 after his father's death ; for what cause is 
 not clear. He was a most hopeful young 
 man, and had behaved so bravely against 
 the Turks at the siege of Vienna, that the 
 Emperor made him a Count of the Empire. 
 — It was falsely reported that Sir Edward 
 Seymour 4 was dead, a great man ; he had 
 often been Speaker, Treasurer of the Navy, 
 and in many other lucrative offices. He was 
 of a hasty spirit, not at all sincere, but 
 head of the party at any time prevailing in 
 Parliament. 
 
 29^/2. I kept my first courts in Surrey, 
 which took up the whole week. My 
 steward was Mr. Hervey, 5 a Councillor, 
 Justice of Peace, and Member of Parlia- 
 ment, and my neighbour. I gave him 
 six guineas, which was a guinea a-day, and 
 to Mr. Martin, his clerk, three guineas. 
 
 31st October. I was this day 81 com- 
 plete, in tolerable health, considering my 
 great age. 
 
 December. Great contentions about elec- 
 tions. I gave my vote and interest to Sir 
 R. Onslow and Mr. Weston. 6 
 
 27M. My grandson 7 quitted Oxford. 8 
 1 701 -2 : 2.1st January. At the Royal 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 434.] 2 [6th September, O.S.] 
 
 3 [John Granville, Earl of Bath, 1628-1701.] 
 
 4 [See atite, p. 431.] 
 
 5 Of Betchworth. 
 
 6 Of Ockham ; but Mr. Wessell, of Bansted (a 
 merchant) carried it against Mr. Weston. 
 
 7 [See ante, p. 452.] 
 
 * [Under this year Thoresby has an interesting 
 reference to "the famous Mr. Evelyn ":—" 1701. 
 
 Society there was read and approved the 
 delineation and description of my Tables 
 of Veins and Arteries, 1 by Mr. Cowper, 
 the chirurgeon, in order to their being 
 engraved. 
 
 8th March. The King had a fall from 
 his horse, and broke his collar-bone, and 
 having been much indisposed before, and 
 agueish, with a long cough and other weak- 
 ness, died this Sunday morning, about four 
 o'clock. 
 
 I carried my accounts of Greenwich 
 Hospital to the Committee. 
 
 12th April. My brother-in-law, Glan- 
 ville, 2 departed this life this morning after 
 a long languishing illness, leaving a son 
 by my sister, and two grand -daughters. 3 
 Our relation and friendship had been long 
 and great. He was a man of excellent 
 parts. He died in the 84th year of his 
 age, and willed his body to be wrapped in 
 lead and carried down to Greenwich, put 
 on board a ship, and buried in the sea, 
 between Dover and Calais, about the 
 Goodwin Sands ; which was done on the 
 Tuesday, or Wednesday after. This 
 occasioned much discourse, he having no 
 relation at all to the sea. He was a gentle- 
 
 The famous Mr. Evelyn, who has published a 
 number of very rare books, was above measure civil 
 and courteous, in showing me many drawings and 
 paintings of his own and his lady's doing ; one 
 especially of enamel was surprisingly fine, and this 
 ingenious lady told me the manner how she wrought 
 it, but I was uneasy at his too great civility in 
 leaving an untold heap of gold medals before me, 
 etc. He afterwards carried me in his coach to his 
 son Draper's at the Temple, and showed me many 
 curious pieces of his ingenious daughter's perform- 
 ance, both very small in miniature, and as large as 
 the life in oil colours, equal it is thought to the 
 greatest masters of the age. He gave me a speci- 
 men of some prospects he took in Italy, and etched 
 upon the copper by his own hand" (Thoresby's 
 Diary, 1830, i. 340-41).] 
 
 1 See ante, p. 120 ; and pp. 170 and 260. 
 
 2 William Glanville (see ante, p. 145).] 
 
 a One of these daughters became heiress of the 
 family, and married William Evelyn of St. Clere, 
 in Kent, son of George Evelyn of Nutfield. He 
 assumed the name of Glanville ; but there being 
 only daughters by this marriage, he had two sons 
 by a second wife, and they resumed the name of 
 Evelyn. The first of those sons left a son who died 
 unmarried before he came of age, and a daughter 
 who married Colonel Hume, who had taken the 
 name of Evelyn, but had no child ; the second son 
 of Mr. Glanville Evelyn married Lady Jane Leslie, 
 who became Countess of Rothes in her own right, 
 and left a son, George William, who became Earl 
 of Rothes in right of his mother, and died in 181 7, 
 leaving no issue male. 
 
1702] 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 455 
 
 man of an ancient family in Devonshire, 
 and married my sister Jane. By his 
 prudent parsimony he much improved his 
 fortune. He had a place in the Alienation- 
 Office, 1 and might have been an extra- 
 ordinary man, had he cultivated his parts. 
 
 My steward at Wotton gave a very 
 honest account of what he had laid out on 
 repairs, amounting to ^1900. 
 
 3rd May. The Report of the Committee 
 sent to examine the state of Greenwich 
 Hospital was delivered to the House of 
 Commons, much to their satisfaction. — 
 Lord Godolphin made Lord High Trea- 
 surer. 
 
 Being elected a member of the Society 
 lately incorporated for the Propagation of 
 the Gospel in Foreign Parts, 2 I subscribed 
 £\o per annum towards the carrying it on. 
 We agreed that every missioner, besides 
 the £2.0 to set him forth, should have ^"50 
 per annum out of the stock of the Corpora- 
 tion, till his settlement was worth to him 
 ;£ioo per annum. We sent a young divine 
 to New York. 
 
 2.2nd June. I dined at the Archbishop's 
 with the new-made Bishop of Carlisle, Dr. 
 Nicolson, my worthy and learned corre- 
 spondent. 3 
 
 2*]lh. I went to Wotton with my family 
 for the rest of the summer, and my son-in- 
 law, Draper, with his family, 4 came to stay 
 with us, his house at Addiscombe being 
 new-building, so that my family was above 
 thirty. — Most of the new Parliament were 
 chosen of Church of England principles, 
 against the peevish party. The Queen was 
 magnificently entertained at Oxford and all 
 the towns she passed through on her way 
 to Bath. 
 
 yist October. Arrived now to the 82nd 
 year of my age, having read over all that 
 passed since this day twelvemonth in these 
 notes, I render solemn thanks to the Lord, 
 imploring the pardon of my past sins, and 
 the assistance of His grace ; making new 
 
 1 [The Alienation Office issued licences for aliena- 
 tions of land, and pardons for those passed without 
 licence or made by will. It was not finally abolished 
 until the reign of William IV. The office buildings 
 were in the Temple, at the north end of King's 
 Bench Walk (Note to Courthofis Memoirs, Cam- 
 den Miscellany, vol. xi. p. 137).] 
 
 2 [It received its charter June 16, 1701.] 
 
 3 [Dr. William Nicolson, 1655-1727 ; Bishop of 
 Carlisle, 1 702-1718.] 4 [See ante, p. 431.] 
 
 resolutions, and imploring that He will 
 continue His assistance, and prepare me 
 for my blessed Saviour's coming that I 
 may obtain a comfortable departure after 
 so long a term as has been hitherto in- 
 dulged me. I find by many infirmities this 
 year (especially nephritic pains) that I must 
 decline ; and yet of His infinite mercy 
 retain my intellects and senses in great 
 measure above most of my age. I have 
 this year repaired much of the mansion- 
 house and several tenants' houses, and paid 
 some of my debts and engagements. My 
 wife, children, and family in health : for 
 all which I most sincerely beseech Almighty 
 God to accept of these my acknowledg- 
 ments, and that if it be His holy will to 
 continue me yet longer, it may be to the 
 praise of His infinite grace, and salvation 
 of my soul. Amen ! 
 
 %th November. My kinsman, John 
 Evelyn, of Nutfield, a young and very hope- 
 ful gentleman, and Member of Parliament, 1 
 after having come to Wotton to see me, 
 about fifteen days past, went to London 
 and there died of the small-pox. He left 
 a brother, a commander in the army in 
 Holland, to inherit a fair estate. 
 
 Our affairs in so prosperous a condition 
 both by sea and land, that there has not 
 been so great an union in Parliament, 
 Court, and people, in memory of man, 
 which God in mercy make us thankful for, 
 and continue ! The Bishop of Exeter 2 
 preached before the Queen and both 
 Houses of Parliament at St. Paul's ; they 
 were wonderfully huzzaed in their passage, 
 and splendidly entertained in the city. 
 
 December. The expectation now is, what 
 treasure will be found on breaking bulk of 
 the galleon brought from Vigo by Sir 
 George Rooke, 3 which being made up in 
 an extraordinary manner in the hold, was 
 not begun to be opened till the 5th of this 
 month, before two of the Privy Council, 
 two of the chief magistrates of the city, 
 and the Lord Treasurer. 
 
 After the excess of honour conferred by 
 the Queen on the Earl of Marlborough, by 
 making him a Knight of the Garter and a 
 
 1 For Bletchingley, near Reigate, in Surrey. 
 
 2 [Sir Jonathan Trelawny, 1 650-1 721 ; Bishop of 
 Exeter, 1689-1707.] 
 
 3 [A fleet of Spanish galleons was captured or 
 destroyed by Rooke in the harbour of Vigo, 
 October 12, 1702. 
 
456 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 [1703 
 
 Duke, for the success of but one campaign, 
 that he should desire ^"5000 a-year to be 
 settled on him by Parliament out of the 
 Post-office, was thought a bold and un- 
 advised request, as he had, besides his 
 own considerable estate, over ,£30,000 
 a-year in places and employments, with 
 £50,000 at interest. He had married one 
 daughter to the son of my Lord Treasurer 
 Godolphin, another to the Earl of Sunder- 
 land, and a third to the Earl of Bridge- 
 water. He is a very handsome person, 
 well-spoken and affable, and supports his 
 want of acquired knowledge by keeping 
 good company. 
 
 1702-3. News of Vice -Admiral Ben- 
 bow's conflict with the French fleet in the* 
 West Indies, in which he gallantly behaved! 
 himself, and was wounded, and would have? 
 had extraordinary success, had not four of 
 his men-of-war stood spectators without 
 coming to his assistance ; 1 for this, two of 
 their commanders were tried by a Council 
 of War, and executed ; 2 a third was con- 
 demned to perpetual imprisonment, loss of 
 pay, and incapacity to serve in future. 
 The fourth died. 
 
 Sir Richard Onslow 3 and Mr. Ogle- 
 thorpe (son of the late Sir Theo. O. ) 4 
 fought on occasion of some words which 
 passed at a Committee of the House. 
 Mr. Oglethorpe was disarmed. — The Bill 
 against occasional Conformity was lost by 
 one vote. — Corn and provisions so cheap 
 that the farmers are unable to pay their 
 rents. 
 
 February. A famous cause at the King's 
 Bench between Mr. Fen wick and his wife, 5 
 which went for him with a great estate. 
 
 1 [August 24. Benbow died of his wounds, 
 November 4, 1702.] 
 
 2 The Captains, Richard Kirby and Cooper 
 Wade, having been tried and condemned to die by 
 a Court- Martial held on them in the West Indies, 
 were sent home in the Bristol \ and, on its arrival 
 at Portsmouth, were both shot on board, not being 
 suffered to land on English ground. 
 
 3 [Sir Richard Onslow, 1654-1717, afterwards 
 Speaker. ] 
 
 4 [Sir Theophilus Oglethorpe, 1650-1702.] 
 
 5 She was daughter and heir of Sir Adam 
 Erowne, of Betchworth Castle, in Dorking [see 
 ante, p. 184], and married Mr. Fenwick. This 
 suit probably related to a settlement which she 
 had consented to make, by which the estate was 
 limited to them and their issue, and the heir of the 
 survivor. They had one son, who died without 
 issue, and she survived her husband, thereby 
 becoming entitled to dispose of it. 
 
 The Duke of Marlborough lost his only 
 son at Cambridge by the small-pox. — A 
 great earthquake at Rome, etc. — A famous 
 young woman, an Italian, was hired by 
 our comedians to sing on the stage, during 
 so many plays, for which they gave her 
 ^500 ; which part by her voice alone at 
 the end of three scenes she performed with 
 such modesty and grace, and above all 
 with such skill, that there was never any 
 who did anything comparable with their 
 voices. She was to go home to the Court 
 of the King of Prussia, and I believe 
 carried with her out of this vain nation 
 above ^1000, everybody coveting to hear 
 her at their private houses. 
 
 26th. May. This day died Mr. Samuel 
 epys, a very worthy, industrious and 
 urious person, none in England exceeding 
 im in knowledge of the navy, in which 
 e had passed through all the most con- 
 iderable offices, Clerk of the Acts and 
 Secretary of the Admiralty, all which he 
 performed with great integrity. When 
 King James XL went out of England, he 
 laid down his office, and would serve no 
 more ; but withdrawing himself from all 
 public affairs, he lived at Clapham with 
 his partner, Mr. Hewer, formerly his 
 clerk, in a very noble house and sweet 
 place, where he enjoyed the fruit of his 
 labours in great prosperity. He was 
 universally beloved, hospitable, generous, 
 learned in many things, skilled in music, 
 a very great cherisher of learned men of 
 whom he had the conversation. His 
 library 1 and collection of other curiosities 
 were of the most considerable, the models 
 of ships especially. Besides what he 
 published of an account of the navy, 2 as he 
 found and left it, he had for divers years 
 under his hand the History of the Navy, 
 or Navalia, as he called it ; but how far 
 advanced, and what will follow of his, is 
 left, I suppose, to his sister's son, Mr. 
 Jackson, a young gentleman, whom Mr. 
 Pepys had educated in all sorts of useful 
 learning, sending him to travel abroad, 
 
 1 His valuable library, together with his fine 
 collection of prints, he gave to Magdalene College, 
 Cambridge, where they now remain in a handsome 
 room. [The " Pepysian Treasures " are described 
 in the Gentleman's Magazine, February, 1906, 
 et sea.] 
 
 2 [Memoirs relating to the State of tlu Royal 
 Navy, 1690.] 
 
1704] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 457 
 
 from whence he returned with extraordinary 
 accomplishments, and worthy to be heir. 
 Mr. Pepys had been for near forty years so 
 much my particular friend, that Mr. Jack- 
 son sent me complete mourning, desiring 
 me to be one to hold up the pall at his 
 magnificent obsequies ; but my indisposi- 
 tion hindered me from doing him this last 
 office. 1 
 
 13th June. Rains have been great and 
 continual, and now, near midsummer, cold 
 and wet. 
 
 nth July. I went to Addiscombe, 
 sixteen miles from Wotton, to see my 
 son-in-law's new house, the outside, to 
 the coving, 2 being such excellent brick- 
 work, based with Portland stone, with the 
 pilasters, windows, and within, that I pro- 
 nounced it in all the points of good and 
 solid architecture to be one of the very 
 best gentlemen's houses in Surrey, when 
 finished. I returned to Wotton in the 
 evening, though weary. 
 
 2$th. The last week in this month an 
 uncommon long-continued rain, and the 
 Sunday following, thunder and lightning. 
 
 12th August. The new Commission 
 for Greenwich Hospital was sealed and 
 opened, at which my son-in-law, Draper, 8 
 was present, to whom I resigned my 
 office of Treasurer. From August 1696, 
 there had been expended in building 
 £89,364:14:8. 
 
 31st October. This day, being eighty- 
 three years of age, upon examining what 
 concerned me, more particularly the past 
 year, with the great mercies of God pre- 
 serving me, and in the same measure 
 making my infirmities tolerable, I give 
 God most hearty and humble thanks, 
 beseeching Him to confirm to me the 
 pardon of my sins past, and to prepare me 
 for a better life by the virtue of His grace 
 and mercy, for the sake of my blessed 
 Saviour. 
 
 21st November. The wet and uncom- 
 fortable weather staying us from church 
 this morning, our Doctor officiated in my 
 family ; at which were present above 
 twenty domestics. He made an excellent 
 
 1 [He was buried in St. Olave's Church, Crutched 
 Friars, June 5, 1704, in a vault close to his wife's 
 monument.] 
 
 2 [An arch, or arched projecture.] 
 
 3 [See ante, p. 431.] 
 
 discourse on 1 Cor. xv., v. 55, 56, of the 
 vanity of this world and uncertainty of life, 
 and the inexpressible happiness and satis- 
 faction of a holy life, with pertinent 
 inferences to prepare us for death and a 
 future state. I gave him thanks, and told 
 him I took it kindly as my funeral sermon. 
 
 26-27M. The effects of the hurricane 
 and tempest of wind, rain, and lightning, 
 through all the nation, especially London, 
 were very dismal. 1 Many houses de- 
 molished, and people killed. As to my 
 own losses, the subversion of woods and 
 timber, both ornamental and valuable, 
 through my whole estate, and about my 
 house the woods* crowning the garden- 
 mount, and growing along the park- 
 meadow, the damage to my own dwelling, 
 farms, and outhouses, is almost tragical, 
 not to be paralleled with anything happen- 
 ing in our age. I am not able to describe 
 it ; but submit to the pleasure of Almighty 
 God. 
 
 ytk December. I removed to Dover 
 Street, where I found all well ; but houses, 
 trees, garden, etc., at Sayes Court, suffered 
 very much. 
 
 ^ist. I made up my accounts, paid 
 wages, gave rewards and new-year's gifts, 
 according to custom. 
 
 1703-4 : January. The King of Spain 2 
 landing at Portsmouth, came to Windsor, 
 where he was magnificently entertained by 
 the Queen, and behaved himself so nobly, 
 that everybody was taken with his graceful 
 deportment. After two days, having pre- 
 sented the great ladies, and others, with 
 very valuable jewels, he went back to 
 Portsmouth, and immediately embarked 
 for Spain. 
 
 16th. The Lord Treasurer gave my 
 grandson 3 the office of Treasurer of the 
 Stamp Duties, with a salary of £300 
 a-year. 
 
 yotk. The fast on the martyrdom of 
 King Charles I. was observed with more 
 than usual solemnity. 
 
 1 [This was the " Great Storm " of November 26 
 to December 1. Two of the persons mentioned by 
 Evelyn were killed by it, — Bishop Kidder (ante, 
 p. 430), and Penelope Nicholas, wife of Sir John 
 Nicholas, of West Horsley (ante, p. 240). It also 
 blew down the Eddystone Lighthouse (see ante, 
 p. 442).] 
 
 2 Charles the Third; afterwards Emperor of 
 Germany, by the title of Charles the Sixth. 
 
 3 [John Evelyn.] 
 
458 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 [1705 
 
 May. Dr. Bathurst, President of Trinity 
 College, Oxford, now died, 1 I think the 
 oldest acquaintance now left me in the 
 world. He was eighty-six years of age, 
 stark blind, deaf, and memory lost, after 
 having been a person of admirable parts and 
 learning. This is a serious alarm to me. 
 God grant that I may profit by it ! He 
 built a very handsome chapel to the college, 
 and his own tomb. He gave a legacy of 
 money, and the third part of his library, 
 to his nephew, Dr. Bohun, 2 who went 
 hence to his funeral. 
 
 Jth September. This day was celebrated 
 the thanksgiving for the late great victory, 3 
 with the utmost pomp "and splendour by 
 the Queen, Court, great Officers, Lord 
 Mayor, Sheriffs, Companies, etc. The 
 streets were scaffolded from Temple Bar, 
 where the Lord Mayor presented her 
 Majesty with the sword, which she 
 returned. Every Company was ranged 
 under its banners, the City Militia without 
 the rails, which were all hung with cloth 
 suitable to the colour of the banner. The 
 Lord Mayor, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, were 
 in their scarlet robes, with caparisoned 
 horses ; the Knight Marshal on horseback ; 
 the Foot-Guards ; the Queen in a rich 
 coach with eight horses, none with her 
 but the Duchess of Marlborough in a very 
 plain garment, the Queen full of jewels. 
 Music and trumpets at every City Company. 
 The great officers of the Crown, Nobility, 
 and Bishops, all in coaches with six horses, 
 besides innumerable servants, went to St. 
 Paul's, where the Dean preached. After 
 this, the Queen went back in the same 
 order to St. James's. The City Companies 
 feasted all the Nobility and Bishops, and 
 illuminated at night. Music for the church 
 and anthems composed by the best masters. 
 The day before was wet and stormy, but 
 this was one of the most serene and calm 
 days that had been all the year. 
 
 October. The year has been very 
 plentiful. 
 
 315-/. Being my birthday and the 84th 
 year of my life, after particular reflections 
 on my concerns and passages of the year, 
 I set some considerable time of this day 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 243.] 
 
 2 [He was Rector of Wotton (see ante, p. 453).] 
 
 3 Over the French and Bavarians, at Blenheim, 
 August 2, 1704. 
 
 apart, to recollect and examine my state 
 and condition, giving God thanks, and 
 acknowledging His infinite mercies to me 
 and mine, begging His blessing, and 
 imploring His protection for the year 
 following. 
 
 December. Lord Clarendon presented 
 me with the three volumes of his father's 
 History of the Rebellion? 
 
 My Lord of Canterbury wrote to me for 
 suffrage for Mr. Clarke's continuance this 
 year in the Boyle Lecture, 2 which I will- 
 ingly gave for his excellent performance of 
 this year. 
 
 1704-5 : /tfhjamiary. I dined at Lam- 
 beth with the Archbishop of Dublin, Dr. 
 King, 3 a sharp ready man in politics, as 
 well as very learned. 
 
 gth February. I went to wait on my 
 Lord Treasurer, where was the victorious 
 Duke of Marlborough, who came to me 
 and took me by the hand with extra- 
 ordinary familiarity and civility, as formerly 
 he was used to do, without any alteration 
 of his good-nature. He had a most rich 
 George in a sardonyx set with diamonds 
 of very great value ; for the rest, very 
 plain. I had not seen him for some years, 
 and believed he might have forgotten me. 
 
 2.1st. Remarkable fine weather. Agues 
 and small-pox much in every place. 
 
 nth March. An exceeding dry season. 
 — Great loss by fire, burning the outhouses 
 and famous stable of the Earl of Notting- 
 ham, at Burley [Rutlandshire], 4 full of rich 
 goods and furniture, by the carelessness of 
 a servant. A little before, the same 
 happened at Lord Pembroke's, at Wilton. 
 The old Countess of Northumberland, 
 Dowager of Algernon Percy, Admiral of 
 the Fleet to King Charles I. , died in the 
 83rd year of her age. She was sister to 
 the Earl of Suffolk, and left a great estate, 
 her jointure to descend to the Duke of 
 Somerset. 5 
 
 1 [A mistake. He appears to have received them 
 in December, 1702 (Letter to Pepys, 20th January, 
 
 i7°3- 
 
 2 [Dr. Samuel Clarke's Boyle Lectures were 
 
 " On the Being and Attributes of God."] 
 
 3 [William King, 1650 - 1729 ; Archbishop of 
 Dublin, 1703-29.] 
 
 4 [Burley-on-the-Hill (see ante, p. 180).] 
 
 5 This Duke had married Elizabeth Percy (see 
 ante, p. 336), only daughter and heir to Joceline 
 Percy, the eleventh and last Earl of Northumber- 
 land. 
 
1706] 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 459 
 
 May. The Bailiff of Westminster hanged 
 himself. He had an ill report. 
 
 On the death of the Emperor, there was 
 no mourning worn at Court, because there 
 was none at the Imperial Court on the 
 death of King William. 
 
 \%th. I went to see Sir John Chardin, 1 
 at Turnham - Green, the gardens being 
 very fine, and exceeding well planted with 
 fruit. 
 
 2.0th. Most extravagant expense to de- 
 bauch and corrupt votes for Parliament 
 members. I sent my grandson with his 
 party of my freeholders to vote for Mr. 
 Harvey, of Combe. 2 
 
 June. The season very dry and hot. — 
 I went to see Dr. Dickinson 3 the famous 
 chemist. We had long conversation about 
 the philosopher's elixir, which he believed 
 attainable, and had seen projection him- 
 self by one who went under the name of 
 Mundanus, who sometimes came among 
 the adepts, but was unknown as to his 
 country, or abode ; of this the Doctor has 
 written a treatise in Latin, full of very 
 astonishing relations. He is a very learned 
 person, formerly a Fellow of St. John's 
 College, Oxford, 4 in which he practised 
 physic, but has now altogether given it 
 over, and lives retired, being very old and 
 infirm, yet continuing chemistry. 
 
 I went to Greenwich Hospital, where 
 they now began to take in wounded and 
 worn-out seamen, who are exceeding well 
 provided for. The buildings now going 
 on are very magnificent. 
 
 October. Mr. Cowper 5 made Lord 
 Keeper. Observing how uncertain great 
 
 1 See ante, p. 327. 
 
 2 Sir Edward Onslow and Sir William Scawen 
 were the other candidates, and succeeded. Harvey 
 was a violent Tory. 
 
 3 Edward Dickinson, M.D., 1624-1707, of Merton 
 College, Oxford. [He was King's physician, 1685- 
 88, in which latter year he retired from practice.] 
 He published several things. 
 
 4 He was a Fellow of Merton. Evelyn must 
 have mistaken Dr. Dickinson as to his not knowing 
 who Theodore Mundanus was, for in 1686 the 
 Doctor printed a letter to him with his answer 
 from Paris ; and in the latter, Mundanus says he 
 made two projections in his presence. {Biog. 
 Brit., 1703, v. 176, art. Dickinson.) 
 
 5 William Cowper, d. 1723, created a Baron in 
 1706, and Lord Chancellor, afterwards (1718) 
 Viscount Fordwich and first Earl Cowper, by 
 George the First. 
 
 *3> 
 
 officers are of continuing long in their 
 places, he would not accept it, unless 
 ^2000 a-year were given him in reversion 
 when he was put out, in consideration of 
 his loss of practice. His predecessors, 
 how little time soever they had the seal, 
 usually got ^"100,000 and made themselves 
 Barons. — A new Secretary of State. 1 — 
 Lord Abington, Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 displaced, and General Churchill, brother 
 to the Duke of Marlborough, put in. An 
 indication of great unsteadiness some- 
 where, but thus the crafty Whig party (as 
 called) begin to change the face of the 
 Court, in opposition to the High Church- 
 men, which was another distinction of a 
 party from the Low Churchmen. The 
 Parliament chose one Mr. Smith, Speaker. 2 
 There had never been so great an assembly 
 of members on the first day of sitting, 
 being more than 450. The votes both of 
 the old, as well as the new, fell to those 
 called Low Churchmen, contrary to all 
 expectation. 
 
 31st. I am this day arrived to the 85th 
 year of my age. Lord teach me so to 
 number my days to come, that I may 
 apply them to wisdom ! 
 
 1705-6 : 1st January. Making up my 
 accounts for the past year, paid bills, 
 wages, and new-year's gifts, according to 
 custom. Though much indisposed and in 
 so advanced a stage, I went to our chapel 
 [in London] to give God public thanks, 
 beseeching Almighty God to assist me and 
 my family the ensuing year, if He should 
 yet continue my pilgrimage here, and 
 bring me at last to a better life with Him 
 in His heavenly kingdom. Divers of 
 our friends and relations dined with, us 
 this day. 
 
 2.7th. My indisposition increasing, I 
 was exceedingly ill this whole week. 
 
 [yd February. Notes of the sermons at 
 the chapel in the morning and afternoon, 
 written with his own hand, conclude this 
 Diary.] 
 
 * # * Mr. Evelyn died on the 27th of this 
 month. 
 
 1 Charles Spencer, third Earl of Sunderland (see 
 ante, p. 404). 
 
 2 John Smith, 1655-1723, Member for Andover. 
 [He was elected Speaker for three years.] 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 LETTER OF GEORGE EVELYN TO HIS FATHER 
 
 The following Letter from George Evelyn, 
 elder brother of Evelyn, written when at 
 College, to his father Richard at Wotton, 
 26th Sept. 1636, and giving an account of 
 the Visit made by the King and Queen to 
 the University of Oxford, with some par- 
 ticulars respecting himself, contains some 
 curious matter : — 
 
 ' ' I know you have long desired to hear 
 of my welfare, and the total series of his 
 Majesty's entertainment whilst he was fixed 
 in the centre of our Academy. 
 
 ' ' The Archbishop our Lord Chancellor 
 [Laud] and many Bishops, Doctor Bayley 
 our Vice-Chancellor, with the rest of the 
 Doctors of the University, together with the 
 Mayor of the City, and his brethren, rode 
 out in state to meet his Majesty, the Bishops 
 in their pontifical robes, the Doctors in 
 their scarlet gowns and their black caps 
 (being the habit of the University), the 
 Mayor and Aldermen in their scarlet gowns, 
 and sixty other townsmen all in black satin 
 doublets and in old-fashioned jackets. At 
 the appropinquation of the King, after the 
 beadles' staves were delivered up to his 
 Majesty in token that they yielded up all 
 their authority to him, the Vice-Chancellor 
 spoke a speech to the King, and presented 
 him with a Bible in the University's behalf, 
 the Queen with Camden's Britannia in 
 English, and the Prince Elect (as I took it) 
 
 with Croke's Politics ; all of them with 
 gloves, (because Oxford is famous for 
 gloves). 1 A little nigher the City where the 
 City bounds are terminated, the Mayor pre- 
 sented his Majesty with a large gilt cup, et 
 tenet vicinitatem opinio, the Recorder of the 
 City made a speech to his Majesty. In the 
 entrance of the University, at St. John's 
 College, he was detained with another 
 speech made by a Fellow of the house. 
 The speech being ended, he went to Christ- 
 church, scholars standing on both sides of 
 the street, according to their degrees, and in 
 their formalities, clamantes, Vivat Rex noster 
 Carolus I Being entered Christ- church, he 
 had another speech made by the University 
 orator, and student of the same house : the 
 subject of all which speeches being this, 
 expressing their joy and his welcome to the 
 University. Then, retiring himself a little, 
 he went to prayers ; they being ended, soon 
 after to supper, and then to the play, whose 
 subject was the Calming of the Passions ; 
 but it was generally misliked of the Court, 
 because it was so grave ; but especially 
 because they understood it not. This was 
 the first day's entertainment. 
 
 "The next morning, he had a sermon 
 in Christ-church, preached by Browne, the 
 
 1 Gloves always made part of a present from 
 Corporate Bodies at that time, more or less 
 ornamented with rich fringes according to the 
 quality of the persons to whom they were offered. 
 
 461 
 
462 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Proctor of the University, and a student of 
 the house. The sermon being ended, the 
 Prince Elect and Prince Rupert went to St. 
 Mary's, where there was a congregation, 
 and Prince Rupert created a Master of 
 Arts, also many nobles with him. The 
 reason why the Prince Elect was not created 
 Master of Arts, was because Cambridge our 
 sister had created him before. The congre- 
 gation done, the King, Queen, and all the 
 nobles went to the schools (the glory of 
 Christendom), where in the public Library, 
 his Majesty heard another speech, spoken by 
 my Lord Chamberlain's third son, and of 
 Exeter College, which speech the King liked 
 well. From the schools the King went to 
 St. John's to dinner, where the Archbishop 
 entertained his Majesty with a magnificent 
 dinner and costly banquet [dessert]. Then 
 with a play made by the same house. The 
 play being ended, he went to Christ-church ; 
 and, after supper, to another play, called 
 the Royal Slave, 1 all the actors performing 
 in a Persian habit, which play much 
 delighted his Majesty and all the nobles, 
 commending it for the best that ever was 
 acted. 
 
 ' ' The next morning, he departed from 
 the University, all the Doctors kissing his 
 hand, his Majesty expressing his kingly love 
 
 1 By William Cartwright, 161 1-43, a student of 
 that college. In this play one of his fellow- 
 students (afterwards the famous Dr. Busby) per- 
 formed a part (that of Cratander) so excellently 
 well, and with so much applause, that he is said to 
 have narrowly escaped the temptation of at once 
 becoming an actor on the public stage. 
 
 to the University, and his countenance 
 demonstrating unto us, that he was well 
 pleased with this his entertainment made by 
 us scholars. 
 
 " After the King's departure, there was a 
 congregation called, where many Doctors, 
 some Masters of Art, and a few Batchelors 
 were created, they procuring it by making 
 friends to the Palsgrave. There were very 
 few that went out that are now resident, 
 most of them were lords and gentlemen. A 
 Doctor of Divinity and Bachelor of Arts 
 were created of our house [Trinity], but 
 they made special friends to get it. 
 
 ' ' With the ^30 you sent me I have 
 furnished me with those necessaries I wanted, 
 and have made me two suits, one of them 
 being a black satin doublet and black cloth 
 breeches, the other a white satin doublet 
 and scarlet hose ; the scarlet hose I shall 
 wear but little here, but it will be comely for 
 me to wear in the country. 
 
 " Your desire was that I should be as 
 frugal in my expenses as I could, and I 
 assure you, honoured Sir, I have been ; I 
 have spent none of it in riot or toys. You 
 hoped it would be sufficient to furnish me 
 and discharge my battels for this quarter ; 
 but I fear it will not, therefore I humbly 
 entreat you to send me £6. I know what I 
 have already, and with this I send for, will 
 be more than enough to discharge these 
 months ; but I know not what occasion may 
 fall out. 
 
 " Trin. Coll. Oxon., 26 July, 1636." 
 
 II 
 
 LETTER OF JEREMY TAYLOR TO JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Feb. 17, 1657-8. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 If dividing and sharing griefs were 
 like the cutting of rivers, I dare say to you, 
 you would find your stream much abated ; 
 for I account myself to have a great cause of 
 
 sorrow not only in the diminution of the 
 numbers of your joys and hopes, but in the 
 loss of that pretty person, your strangely 
 hopeful boy. 1 I cannot tell all my own 
 sorrows without adding to yours ; and the 
 1 [See ante, pp. 196-7.] 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 463 
 
 causes of my real sadness in your loss are so 
 just and so reasonable, that I can no other- 
 wise comfort you but by telling you, that 
 you have very great cause to mourn : So 
 certain is it, that grief does propagate as 
 fire does. You have enkindled my funeral 
 torch, and by joining mine to yours, I do 
 but increase the flame. Hoc me male urit, 
 is the best signification of my apprehensions 
 of your sad story. But, Sir, I cannot 
 choose but I must hold another and a brighter 
 flame to you — it is already burning in your 
 breast ; and if I can but remove the dark 
 side of the lantern, you have enough within 
 you to warm yourself, and to shine to others. 
 Remember, Sir, your two boys 1 are two 
 bright stars, and their innocence is secured, 
 and you shall never hear evil of them again. 
 Their state is safe, and heaven is given 
 to them upon very easy terms ; nothing but 
 to be born and die. It will cost you more 
 trouble to get where they are ; and amongst 
 other things one of the hardnesses will be, 
 that you must overcome even this just and 
 reasonable grief; and indeed, though the 
 grief hath but too reasonable a cause, yet it 
 is much more reasonable that you master it. 
 For besides that they are no losers, but are 
 the person that complains, do but consider 
 what you would have suffered for their 
 interest : you [would] have suffered them to 
 go from you, to be great Princes in a strange 
 country ; and if you can be content to surfer 
 your own inconvenience for their interest, 
 you commend your worthiest love, and the 
 question of mourning is at an end. But 
 you have said and done well, when you 
 look upon it as a rod of God ; and he 
 that so smites here, will spare hereafter ; 
 and if you by patience and submission 
 imprint the discipline upon your own flesh, 
 you kill the cause, and make the effect very 
 tolerable ; because it is in some sense 
 chosen, and not therefore in no [any] sense 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 197.] 
 
 unsufferable. Sir, if you do look to it, time 
 will snatch your honour from you, and 
 reproach you for not effecting that by 
 Christian philosophy which time will do 
 alone. And if you consider that of the 
 bravest men in the world we find the 
 seldomest stories of their children, and the 
 Apostles had none, and thousands of the 
 worthiest persons that sound most in story 
 died childless ; you will find that it is a rare 
 act of Providence so to impose upon worthy 
 men a necessity of perpetuating their names 
 by worthy actions and discourses, govern- 
 ments, and reasonings. 
 
 If the breach be never repaired, it is 
 because God does not see it fit to be ; and 
 if you will be of this mind it will be much 
 the better. But, Sir, if you will pardon my 
 zeal and passion for your comfort, I will 
 readily confess that you have no need of any 
 discourse from me to comfort you. Sir, 
 now you have an opportunity of serving 
 God by passive graces ; strive to be an 
 example and a comfort to your lady, and by 
 your wise counsel and comfort stand in the 
 breaches of your own family, and make it 
 appear that you are more to her than ten 
 sons. Sir, by the assistance of Almighty 
 God I purpose to wait on you some time 
 next week, 1 that I may be a witness of your 
 Christian courage and bravery ; and that I 
 may see, that God never displeases you, as 
 long as the main stake is preserved, I mean 
 your hopes and confidences of heaven. Sir, 
 I shall pray for all that you can want, that 
 is, some degrees of comfort and a present 
 mind : and shall always do you honour, 
 and fain also would do you service, if it 
 were in the power, as it is in the affections 
 and desires of, 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 Your most affectionate and obliged 
 
 friend and servant, 
 
 Jer. Taylor. 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 197.] 
 
464 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 III 
 
 LETTER OF JOHN EVELYN TO THE HON. ROBERT BOYLE 
 
 Sayes-Court, Sep. 3, 1659. 
 Noble Sir, 
 
 Together with these testimonies 
 of my cheerful obedience to your commands, 
 and a faithful promise of transmitting the 
 rest, if yet there remain anything worthy 
 your acceptance amongst my unpolished and 
 scattered collections, I do here make bold 
 to trouble you with a more minute discovery 
 of the design, which I casually mentioned 
 to you, concerning my great inclination to 
 redeem the remainder of my time, consider- 
 ing, quam parum mihi supersit ad metas ; 
 so as may best improve it to the glory of 
 God Almighty, and the benefit of others. 
 And, since it has proved impossible for me 
 to attain to it hitherto (though in this my 
 private and mean station) by reason of that 
 fond morigeration * to the mistaken customs 
 of the age, which not only rob men of their 
 time, but extremely of their virtue and best 
 advantages ; I have established with myself, 
 that it is not to be hoped for, without some 
 resolutions of quitting these incumbrances, 
 and instituting such a manner of life, for the 
 future, as may best conduce to a design so 
 much breathed after, and, I think, so 
 advantageous. In order to this, I pro- 
 pound, that since we are not to hope for a 
 mathematical college, much less, a Solo- 
 mon's house, hardly a friend in this sad 
 Catalysis, and inter hos armorum strepitus, 
 a period so uncharitable and perverse ; why 
 might not some gentlemen, whose geniuses 
 are greatly suitable, and who desire nothing 
 more than to give a good example, preserve 
 science, and cultivate themselves, join to- 
 gether in society, and resolve upon some 
 orders and economy, to be mutually observed, 
 such as shall best become the end of their 
 union, if, I cannot say, without a kind of 
 singularity, because the thing is new : yet 
 such, at least, as shall be free from pedantry, 
 and all affectation ? The possibility, Sir, of 
 this is so obvious, that I profess, were I not 
 an aggregate person, and so obliged, as well 
 by my own nature as the laws of decency, 
 and their merits, to provide for my de- 
 1 [Obedience, dutifulness (Bailey).] 
 
 pendents, I would cheerfully devote my 
 small fortune towards a design, by which I 
 might hope to assemble some small number 
 together who would resign themselves to live 
 profitably and sweetly together. But since 
 I am unworthy so great a happiness, and 
 that it is not now in my power, I propose 
 that if any one worthy person, and guis 
 meliore luto, so qualified as Mr. Boyle, will 
 join in the design (for not with every one, 
 rich and learned ; there are very few dis- 
 posed, and it is the greatest difficulty to find 
 the man) we would not doubt, in a short 
 time, by God's assistance, to be possessed of 
 the most blessed life that virtuous persons 
 could wish or aspire to in this miserable and 
 uncertain pilgrimage, whether considered as 
 to the present revolutions, or what may 
 happen for the future in all human prob- 
 ability. Now, Sir, in what instances, and 
 how far this is practicable, permit me to 
 give you an account of, by the calcula- 
 tions which I have deduced for our little 
 foundation. 
 
 I propose the purchasing of thirty or forty 
 acres of land, in some healthy place, not 
 above twenty-five miles from London ; of 
 which a good part should be tall wood, and 
 the rest upland pastures or downs, sweetly 
 irrigated. If there were not already an 
 house which might be converted, etc., we 
 would erect upon the most convenient site of 
 this, near the wood, our building, viz. one 
 handsome pavilion, containing a refectory, 
 library, withdrawing -room, and a closet; 
 this the first story ; for we suppose the 
 kitchen, larders, cellars, and offices to be 
 contrived in the half story under ground. In 
 the second should be a fair lodging chamber, 
 a pallet -room, gallery, and a closet ; all 
 which should be well and very nobly fur- 
 nished, for any worthy person that might 
 desire to stay any time, and for the reputa- 
 tion of the college. The half story above 
 for servants, wardrobes, and like con- 
 veniences. To the entry fore front of this 
 a court, and at the other back front a plot 
 walled in of a competent square, for the 
 common seraglio, disposed into a garden ; 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 465 
 
 or it might be only carpet, kept curiously, 
 and to serve for bowls, walking, or other 
 recreations, etc., if the company please. 
 Opposite to the house, towards the wood, 
 should be erected a pretty chapel ; and at 
 equal distances (even with the flanking walls 
 of the square) six apartments or cells, for the 
 members of the Society, and not contiguous 
 to the pavilion, each whereof should contain 
 a small bedchamber, an outward room, a 
 closet, and a private garden, somewhat 
 after the manner of the Carthusians. 1 There 
 should likewise be one laboratory, with a 
 repository for rarities and things of nature ; 
 aviary, dovehouse, physic garden, kitchen 
 garden, and a plantation of orchard fruit, 
 etc. , all uniform buildings, but of single 
 stories, or a little elevated. At convenient 
 distance towards the olitory garden should 
 be a stable for two or three horses, and a 
 lodging for a servant or two. Lastly, a 
 garden house, and conservatory for tender 
 plants. 
 
 The estimate amounts thus. The pavilion 
 ^400, chapel ^150, apartments, walls, and 
 out-housing ^600 ; the purchase of the fee 
 for thirty acres, at ^15 per acre, eighteen 
 years' purchase, ^400 ; the total ^1550, 
 ;£i6oo will be the utmost. Three of the 
 cells or apartments, that is, one moiety, 
 with the appurtenances, shall be at the dis- 
 posal of one of the founders, and the other 
 half at the other's. 
 
 If I and my wife take up two apartments 
 (for we are to be decently asunder ; however 
 I stipulate, and her inclination will greatly 
 suit with it, that shall be no impediment to 
 the Society, but a considerable advantage 
 to the economic part), a third shall be for 
 some worthy person ; and to facilitate the 
 rest, I offer to furnish the whole pavilion 
 completely, to the value of ^500 in goods 
 and movables, if need be, for seven years, 
 till there be a public stock, etc. 
 
 There shall be maintained at the public 
 
 1 [Walpole describes the arrangements at the 
 Convent of the Chartreux in Paris upon which 
 Evelyn's plan was no doubt modelled. The cells 
 were "built like little huts detached from each 
 other." The one they (he and Gray) visited had 
 "four little rooms, furnished in the prettiest 
 manner, and hung with good prints." One of 
 them was a library, another a gallery. Attached 
 to this " cell " was a tiny garden with " a bed of 
 good tulips in bloom, flowers and fruit trees, and 
 all neatly kept" (Walpole to West, from Paris, 
 
 1739)-] 
 
 charge, only a chaplain, well qualified, an 
 ancient woman to dress the meat, wash, and 
 do all such offices, a man to buy provisions, 
 keep the garden, horses, etc. , a boy to assist 
 him, and serve within. 
 
 At one meal a day, of two dishes only 
 (unless some little extraordinary upon par- 
 ticular days or occasions, then never exceed- 
 ing three) of plain and wholesome meat ; a 
 small refection at night : wine, beer, sugar, 
 spice, bread, fish, fowl, candle, soap, oats, 
 hay, fuel, etc., at £4 per week, ^200 per 
 annum ; wages £15 ; keeping the gardens 
 ^"20 ; the chaplain ^20 per annum. Laid 
 up in the treasury yearly ^145, to be 
 employed for books, instruments, drugs, 
 trials, etc. The total ^400 a year, com- 
 prehending the keeping of two horses for 
 the chariot or the saddle, and two kine : so 
 that ^200 per annum will be the utmost 
 that the founders shall be at, to maintain 
 the whole Society, consisting of nine persons 
 (the servants included) though there should 
 no others join capable to alleviate the ex- 
 pense ; but if any of those who desire to be 
 of the Society be so qualified as to support 
 their own particulars, and allow for their own 
 proportion, it will yet much diminish the 
 charge ; and of such there cannot want some 
 at all times, as the apartments are empty. 
 
 If either of the founders think it expedient 
 to alter his condition, or that anything do 
 humanitus contingere, he may resign to 
 another, or sell to his colleague, and dis- 
 pose of it as he pleases, yet so as it still 
 continue the institution. 
 
 Orders 
 
 At six in summer prayers in the chapel. 
 To study till half an hour after eleven. 
 Dinner in the refectory till one. Retire till 
 four. Then called to conversation (if the 
 weather invite) abroad, else in the refectory ; 
 this never omitted but in case of sickness. 
 Prayers at seven. To bed at nine. In the 
 winter the same, with some abatements for 
 the hours, because the nights are tedious, 
 and the evening's conversation more agree- 
 able ; this in the refectory. All play inter- 
 dicted, sans bowls, chess, etc. Every one 
 to cultivate his own garden. One month 
 in spring a course in the elaboratory on 
 vegetables, etc. In the winter a month on 
 other experiments. Every man to have a 
 key of the elaboratory, pavilion, library, 
 
 2 H 
 
466 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEL YN 
 
 repository, etc. Weekly fast. Communion 
 once every fortnight, or month at least. No 
 stranger easily admitted to visit any of the 
 Society, but upon certain days weekly, and 
 that only after dinner. Any of the Society 
 may have his commons to his apartment, if 
 he will not meet in the refectory, so it be 
 not above twice a week. Every Thursday 
 shall be a music meeting at conversation 
 hours. Every person of the Society shall 
 render some public account of his studies 
 weekly if thought fit, and especially shall be 
 recommended the promotion of experimental 
 knowledge, as the principal end of the insti- 
 tution. There shall be a decent habit and 
 uniform used in the college. One month in 
 the year may be spent in London, or any of 
 the Universities, or in a perambulation for 
 the public benefit, etc. , with what other 
 orders shall be thought convenient, etc. 
 
 Thus, Sir, I have in haste (but to your 
 loss not in a laconic style) presumed to com- 
 municate to you (and truly, in my life, never 
 to any but yourself) that project which for 
 some time has traversed my thoughts : and 
 therefore far from being the effect either of 
 an impertinent or trifling spirit, but the 
 result of mature and frequent reasonings. 
 And, Sir, is not this the same that many 
 noble personages did at the confusion of the 
 empire by the barbarous Goths, when Saint 
 Jerome, Eustochium, and others, retired 
 from the impertinences of the world to the 
 sweet recesses and societies in the East, till 
 it came to be burdened with the vows and 
 superstitions, which can give no scandal to our 
 design, that provides against all such snares ? 
 
 Now to assure you, Sir, how pure and 
 unmixed the design is from any other than 
 the public interest propounded by me, and 
 to redeem the time to the noblest purposes, 
 I am thankful to acknowledge that, as to 
 the common forms of living in the world I 
 have little reason to be displeased at my 
 present condition, in which, I bless God, I 
 want nothing conducing either to health 
 or honest diversion, extremely beyond my 
 merit ; and therefore would I be somewhat 
 choice and scrupulous in my colleague, 
 because he is to be the most dear person to 
 me in the world. But oh ! how I should 
 think it designed from heaven, et tanquam 
 numen 5i07rer^s, did such a person as Mr. 
 Boyle, who is .alone a society of all that 
 were desirable to a consummate felicity, 
 esteem it a design worthy his embracing ! 
 Upon such an occasion how would I prosti- 
 tute all my other concernments ! how would 
 I exult ! and, as I am, continue upon in- 
 finite accumulations and regards, 
 
 Sir, 
 His most humble, and most obedient servant, 
 
 J. Evelyn. 
 
 If my health permits me the honour to 
 pay my respects to you before you leave the 
 Town, I will bring you a rude plot of the 
 building, which will better fix the idea, and 
 show what symmetry it holds with this 
 description. : 
 
 1 [Cowley, it may be added, to whom Appendix 
 VI. relates, in his "Proposition for the Advance- 
 ment of Experimental Philosophy "( Works, 1721, 
 ii. 564), sketches a plan of a Philosophical College 
 with a revenue of " four thousand Pounds a Year."] 
 
 IV 
 
 EVELYN AND COLONEL MORLEY 
 
 In the Edition of Sir Richard Baker's 
 Chronicle, published with additions by 
 Edward Philips (Milton's nephew), there is 
 an account of the transactions between 
 Evelyn and Colonel Morley, with particular 
 reference to the influence strenuously used 
 to induce Morley, after Cromwell's death, 
 to declare for the King. In a subsequent 
 edition, in 1730, this account is consider- 
 
 ably altered. But among Evelyn's papers 
 at Wotton has been found the original 
 account drawn up by Sir Thomas Clarges, 
 and sent to Mr. Philips. It is in Sir 
 Thomas's own handwriting, had been evi- 
 dently sent to Evelyn for his perusal, and is 
 thus indorsed by him : 
 
 "Sir Thomas Clarges's (brother-in-law to 
 the Duke of Albemarle) insertion of what 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 467 
 
 concerned Mr. Evelyn and Colonel Morley 
 in continuation of the History written by 
 Mr. Philips, and added to Sir Rich. Baker's 
 Chronicle. Note that my letter to Colonel 
 Morley was not rightly copied ; there was 
 likewise too much said concerning me, which 
 is better, and as it ought to be in the second 
 impression, 1664." 
 
 Mr. Philips's account is as follows : — 
 '* In the seven hundred and nineteenth 
 page of this History we omitted to insert a 
 very material negotiation for the King's 
 service, attempted upon the interruption 
 given to the Parliament by Colonel Lambert 
 and those that joined with him therein, which 
 was managed by Mr. Evelyn, of Sayes Court, 
 by Deptford, in Kent, an active, vigilant, 
 and very industrious agent on all occasions 
 for his Majesty's Restoration ; who, suppos- 
 ing the members of this suppositious Parlia- 
 ment could not but ill resent that affront, 
 thought to make advantage of fixing the 
 impression of it to the ruin of the Army, 
 for the effecting whereof he applied himself 
 to Colonel Herbert Morley, then newly con- 
 stituted one of the five Commissioners for 
 the command of the Army, as a person by 
 his birth, education, and interest, unlikely 
 to be cordially inclined to prostitute himself 
 to the ruin of his country and the infamy of 
 his posterity. 
 
 ■ * Mr. Evelyn gave him some visits to 
 tempt his affection by degrees to a confi- 
 dence in him, and then by consequence to 
 engage him in his designs ; and to induce 
 him the more powerfully thereunto, he put 
 into his hands an excellent and unanswer- 
 able hardy treatise by him written, called 
 An Apology for the Royal Party, which he 
 backed with so good arguments and a very 
 dexterous address in the prosecution of them, 
 that the Colonel was wholly convinced, and 
 recommended to him the procurement of the 
 King's pardon for him, his brother-in-law, 
 Mr. Fagg, and one or two more of his rela- 
 tions. This Mr. Evelyn faithfully promised 
 to endeavour, and taking the opportunity of 
 Sir Samuel Tuke's going at that time into 
 France, he by him acquainted the King 
 (being then at Pontoise) with the relation of 
 this affair, wherewith he was so well pleased 
 as to declare if Colonel Morley, and those 
 for whom he interceded, were not of those 
 execrable judges of his blessed Royal father, 
 they should have his pardon, and he receive 
 
 such other reward as his services should 
 deserve. Upon the sending this advice to 
 the King, the Colonel left London, because 
 of the jealousy which Fleetwood and Lam- 
 bert had of him ; but, before he went, he 
 desired Mr. Evelyn to correspond with him 
 in Sussex, by mean of Mr. Fagg, his brother- 
 in-law, who then lay in the Mews. 
 
 ' ' Mr. Evelyn had good reason to believe 
 Colonel Morley very capable of serving the 
 King at this time ; for he had a much better 
 interest in Sussex than any of his party ; 
 whereby he might have facilitated his 
 Majesty's reception in that county, in case 
 his affairs had required his landing there ; 
 but, besides his power in Sussex, he had (as 
 he said) an influence on two of the best 
 regiments of the Army, and good credit 
 with many of the Officers of the Fleet. 
 
 ' ' But before the return from France of 
 the King's resolution in this matter, there 
 intervened many little changes in the posture 
 of affairs. 
 
 ' ' Upon the advance of General Monck in 
 favour of the Parliament, and the general 
 inclination of the Army to him, Colonel 
 Morley expected the restitution of that 
 power, and with it of his own authority, and 
 was leagued with Walton and Hazelrig in a 
 private treaty with Colonel Whetham, the 
 Governor of Portsmouth, for the delivery of 
 that garrison to them ; and Fagg went 
 privately from London to raise a regiment 
 in Sussex to promote these designs ; but was 
 suppressed before he got any considerable 
 number of men together. 
 
 ' ' Mr. Evelyn, not knowing of these in- 
 trigues, in vain endeavoured by all imagin- 
 able ways to communicate the King's 
 pleasure to Morley, who was by this time in 
 the garrison of Portsmouth. 
 
 ' ' But when the Parliament resumed their 
 power, and he [Morley] was placed in the 
 government of the Tower, he [Evelyn] 
 thought it expedient to renew the former 
 negotiation betwixt them for his Majesty's 
 service, and in order thereunto, he often by 
 visits made application to him, but could 
 never but once procure access ; and then he 
 dismissed him with a faint answer, ' That he 
 would shortly wait upon him at his lodging. ' 
 
 ' ' This put Evelyn into so much passion 
 that he resolved to surmount the difficulty of 
 access by writing freely to him, which he 
 did in this manner : — 
 
468 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 " ' To Colonel Morley, Lieutenant 
 
 of the Tower. 1 
 " ' Sir, 
 
 "'For many obligations, but 
 
 especially for the last testimonies of your 
 
 confidence in my friendship, begun so long 
 
 since, and conserved so in- 
 
 Wlien I transacted • , ,, ., , 
 
 with him for delivery violably through so many 
 of the Tower of changes, and in so universal 
 
 London, and to de- , , r , ■, 
 
 dare for the King, a a decadence of honour, and 
 
 SSScSfScFasS al1 lhat is sacred amon s st 
 
 had he done, he had men, I come with this pro- 
 thafgrea^rna^de- found acknowledgment of 
 served and obtained the favours you have done 
 
 soon after. , , \ , 
 
 me ; and had a great desire 
 to have made this a personal recognition 
 and to congratulate your return, and the 
 dignities which your merits have acquired, 
 and for which none does more sincerely re- 
 joice ; could I promise myself the happi- 
 ness of finding you in your station at any 
 season wherein the Public, and more weighty 
 concernments did afford you the leisure of 
 receiving a visit from a person so inconsider- 
 able as myself. 
 
 " 'But, since I may not hope for that 
 good fortune, and such an opportunity of 
 conveying my respects and the great affec- 
 tions which I owe you, I did presume to 
 transmit this express ; and by it, to present 
 you with the worthiest indications of my 
 zeal to continue in the possession of your 
 good graces, by assuring you of my great 
 desires to serve you in whatsoever may best 
 conduce to your honour, and to a stability 
 of it, beyond all that any future contin- 
 gencies of things can promise : because I 
 am confident that you have a nobler prospect 
 upon the success of your designs than to 
 prostitute your virtues and your conduct to 
 serve the passions, or avarice of any par- 
 ticular persons whatsoever ; being (as you 
 are) free and incontaminate, well-born, and 
 abhorring to dishonour or enrich yourself 
 with the spoils which by others have been 
 ravished from our miserable, yet dearest 
 country ; and which renders them so zealous 
 to pursue the ruin of it, by labouring to in- 
 volve men of the best natures and reputa- 
 tion into their own inextricable labyrinths, 
 and to gratify that which will pay them with 
 so much infamy in the event of things, and 
 
 1 The letter following is taken from Evelyn's 
 own copy. 
 
 with so inevitable a perdition of their precious 
 souls, when all these uncertainties (how 
 specious soever at present) shall vanish and 
 come to nothing. 
 
 " • There is now, Sir, an opportunity put 
 into your hands, by improving whereof you 
 may securely act for the good of your 
 country, and the redemption of it from the 
 insupportable tyrannies, injustice, and im- 
 pieties under which it has now groaned for 
 so many years, through the treachery of 
 many wicked, and the mistakes of some few 
 good men. For by this, Sir, you shall best 
 do honour to God, and merit of your country ; 
 by this you shall secure yourself, and make 
 your name great to succeeding ages : by this 
 you shall crown yourself with real and last- 
 ing dignities. In sum, by this, you shall 
 oblige even those whom you may mistake to 
 be your greatest enemies, to embrace and 
 cherish you as a person becoming the honour 
 of a brave and worthy patriot, and to be 
 rewarded with the noblest expressions of it : 
 when by the best interpretations of your 
 charity and obedience to the dictates of a 
 Christian, you shall thus heap coals of fire 
 upon their head ; and which will at once 
 give both light and warmth to this afflicted 
 Nation, Church, and People, not to be ex- 
 tinguished by any more of those impostors 
 whom God has so signally blown off the 
 stage, to place such in their stead, as have 
 opportunities given them of restoring us to 
 our ancient known laws, native and most 
 happy liberties. — It is this, Sir, which I am 
 obliged to wish to encourage you in, and to 
 pronounce as the worthiest testimony of my 
 congratulations for your return ; and which, 
 you may assure yourself, has the suffrages of 
 the solidest and best ingredient of this whole 
 nation. 
 
 " ' And having said thus much, I am sure 
 you will not look upon this letter as a servile 
 address ; but, if you still retain that favour 
 and goodness for the person who presents it, 
 that I have reason to promise myself, from 
 the integrity which I have hitherto observed 
 in all your professions ; I conjure you to 
 believe, that you have made a perfect acquisi- 
 tion of my service ; and, that (however events 
 succeed) I am still the same person, greedy 
 of an opportunity to recommend the sincerity 
 of my affection, by doing you whatsoever 
 service lies in my power ; and I hope you 
 shall not find me without some capacities of 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 469 
 
 expressing it in effects, as well as in the 
 
 words of • • « Honourable Sir, etc. 
 
 " ' Covent Garden, 
 
 "'iztkjan. 1659-60.'" 
 
 In a note he adds : * ' Morley was at this 
 time Lieutenant of the Tower of London, 
 was absolute master of the City, there being 
 very few of the rebel army anywhere near it, 
 save at Somerset- House a trifling garrison 
 which was marching out to reinforce Lambert, 
 who was marching upon the news of Monck's 
 coming out of Scotland. He was Lieutenant 
 of all the confederate counties of Sussex, 
 Surrey, Hampshire, etc. ; his brother-in-law 
 Governor of Portsmouth and Hampshire ; 
 his own brother William Morley, Governor 
 of Arundel Castle ; in sum, he had all the 
 advantages he could have desired to have 
 raised the well - affected of the City and 
 Country universally breathing after a deliverer 
 (uncertain as to what Monck intended), and 
 so had absolutely prevented any [other] 
 person or power whatever (in all appearance) 
 from having the honour of bringing in the 
 King, before those who were in motion could 
 have snatched it out of his hand. Of all 
 this I made him so sensible, when I was 
 with him at the Tower, that nothing but his 
 fatal diffidence of Monck's having no design 
 to bring in his Majesty because he had [not] 
 discovered it whilst matters were yet in the 
 dark (but the design certainly resolved on) 
 kept him wavering and so irresolute (though 
 he saw the game sufficiently in his hands) 
 as to sit still and put it off, till Lambert and 
 his forces being scattered and taken, Monck 
 marched into the City triumphant with his 
 wearied army, possessed the gates, and with 
 no great cunning and little difficulty, finding 
 how the people and magistrates were dis- 
 posed (whatever his general intentions were, 
 or at first seemed to be), — boldly and fortu- 
 nately brought to pass that noble Revolution, 
 following it to his eternal honour by restoring 
 a banished Prince and the people's freedom. 
 This poor Morley saw, and implored my 
 interest by what means he might secure him- 
 self and obtain his pardon. This is, in short, 
 a true account of that remarkable affair." 
 
 Philips proceeds thus from Sir Thomas 
 Clarges's paper : 
 
 ' ' We shall not here determine what it was 
 that induced Colonel Morley (at the time of 
 his being Lieutenant of the Tower) to decline 
 commerce with Mr. Evelyn for the King's 
 
 service ; whether it was that he doubted of 
 the concurrence of his officers and soldiers, 
 who had been long trained up in an aversion 
 to monarchy, or whether by the entire sub- 
 jection of the Army to Monck, and their 
 unity thereupon, he thought that work now 
 too difficult, which was more feasible in the 
 time of their division. But it is most certain 
 that he took such impressions from Mr. 
 Evelyn's discourses and this letter, that ever 
 after he appeared very moderate in his 
 counsels, and was one of the forwardest to 
 embrace all opportunities for the good of 
 his country ; as was evident by his vigorous 
 and hazardous opposition in Parliament to 
 that impious oath of abjuration to the King's 
 family and line (hereafter mentioned), before 
 it was safe for General Monck to discover 
 how he was inclined ; and by his willing 
 conjunction and confederacy after with the 
 General for the admission of the secluded 
 members, in proclamation for a free Parlia- 
 ment for the King's restoration." * 
 
 1 In 1 815 Baron Maseres republished some Tracts 
 relating to the Civil War in England in the time of 
 King Charles I., among which is "The Mystery 
 and Method of his Majesty's happy Restoration, 
 by the Rev. Dr. John Price, one of the late Duke 
 of Albemarle's chaplains, who was privy to all the 
 secret passages and particularities of that Glorious 
 Revolution." Printed in 1680. In this tract it is 
 stated that Monck's officers, being dissatisfied with 
 the conduct of the Rump Parliament, pressed him 
 to come to some decision, whereupon, on n Feb., 
 1660, they sent the letter to the Parliament desiring 
 them first to fill up the vacancies, and then to de- 
 termine their own sitting and call a new Parliament. 
 Dr. Price then says : " The General yielded at 
 length to their fears and counsels, and the rather 
 for that he was assured of the Tower of London, 
 the Lieutenant of it (Col. Morley) having before 
 offered it to him. This the noble Colonel had 
 done in the City, pitying the consternation of the 
 citizens, when he saw what work was doing [Monck's 
 pulling down the City-gates a few days before by 
 order of the Rump Parliament], and what influence 
 it would have on the country." He adds, "that 
 though the Rump did not dare to take away the 
 General's commission as one of their Commissioners 
 for governing the Army, they struck out his name 
 from the quorum of them, which virtually did take 
 away his authority, and be and Morley were left 
 to stem the tide against Hazlerigg, Alured, and 
 Walton." 
 
 These are the only" mentions which he makes of 
 Morley, by which it seems that the first communica- 
 tion between him and Monck was when the latter 
 had broken down the City -gates on the 9th 
 February. 
 
 Had there been any previous concert between 
 Monck and Morley, the latter would not have 
 required Evelyn's assistance to obtain his pardon. 
 This he not only did want, but obtained through 
 Evelyn. See ante., p. 203. 
 
47Q 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 THE ENCOUNTER BETWEEN THE FRENCH AND SPANISH 
 
 AMBASSADORS 
 
 * ' There had been many troubles and dis- 
 putes between the Ambassadors of France 
 and Spain for precedence in the Courts of 
 foreign Princes, and amongst these there 
 was none more remarkable than that on 
 Tower-hill, on the landing of an Ambassador 
 for Sweden, 30th September, 1660, which 
 was so premeditated a business on both 
 sides, that the King, foreseeing it would 
 come to a quarrel, and being willing to carry 
 himself with indifference towards both, which 
 could not be otherwise done than by leaving 
 them at liberty to take what methods they 
 thought proper for supporting their respective 
 pretences ; but to show at the same time his 
 concern for the public tranquillity, orders 
 were given for a strict guard to be kept 
 upon the place, and all his Majesty's subjects 
 were enjoined not to intermeddle, or take 
 part with either side. The King was further 
 pleased to command that Mr. Evelyn should, 
 after diligent inquiry made, draw up and 
 present to him a distinct narrative of the 
 whole affair." * 
 
 This was done accordingly, and printed : 
 but not being now to be met with, except in 
 the Biographia Britannica (Ed. 1750, vol. 
 iii. ; Ed. 1793, vol. v.), it may be worth 
 while to print it from Evelyn's own copy. 
 
 A Faithful and Impartial Narrative 
 of what passed at the Landing 
 of the Swedish Ambassador. 
 
 Upon Monday last, being the 30th of 
 September, 1661, about ten in the morning, 
 the Spanish Ambassador's coach, in which 
 were his chaplain with some of his gentle- 
 men, attended by about forty more of his 
 own servants in liveries, was sent down to 
 the Tower wharf, and there placed itself 
 near about the point where the ranks of 
 ordnance determine, towards the gate lead- 
 ing into the bulwark. Next after him came 
 
 1 Continuation of Heath's Chronicle. 
 
 the Dutch, and (twelve o'clock past) the 
 Swedish coach of honour, disposing of them- 
 selves according to their places. About two 
 hours after this (in company with his Majesty's 
 coach royal) appeared that of the French 
 Ambassador, wherein were Le Marquis 
 d'Estrades, son to the French Ambassador, 1 
 with several more of his gentlemen, and as 
 near as might be computed, near 150 in 
 train, whereof above forty were horsemen 
 well appointed with pistols, and some of 
 them with carabines, musquetoons, or fuzees ; 
 in this posture and equipage stood they ex- 
 pecting upon the wharf, and, as near as 
 might be, approaching to his Majesty's 
 coach, which was opposite to the stairs. 
 About three in the afternoon, the Swedish 
 Ambassador being landed and received into 
 his Majesty's coach, which moved leisurely 
 before the rest, and was followed by that of 
 the Swede's, the French Ambassador's coach 
 endeavoured to go the next, driving as close 
 as possibly they could, and advancing their 
 party with their swords drawn, to force the 
 Spaniards from the guard of their own coach, 
 which was also putting in for precedence 
 next the King's. His Majesty's coach now 
 passed the Spaniards, who held as yet their 
 rapiers undrawn in their hands, stepping 
 nimbly on either side of the hindmost wheels 
 of their Minister's coach, drew their weapons 
 and shouted, which caused the French coach- 
 horses to make a pause ; but, when they 
 observed the advantage which by this the 
 Spanish Ambassador's coach had gained, 
 being now in file after the Swede's, they 
 came up very near to the Spaniards, and at 
 once pouring in their shot upon them, together 
 with their foot, then got before their coach, 
 
 1 ["As it was not a thing I could do, to go my- 
 self," wrote the French Ambassador to Louis XlVth's 
 Foreign Secretary, Lionne, "I had sent my son; 
 and of the fifty men who were there with him five 
 were killed and thirty-three wounded " (Jusserand's 
 A Frc7ich Ambassador at the Court 0/ Charles the 
 Second, 1892, p. 28). The Marquis d'Estrades was 
 among those wounded. 1 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 47i 
 
 fell to it with their swords, both which the 
 Spaniards received without removing one jot 
 from their stations. 
 
 During this dtmeU (in which the French 
 received some repulse, and were put to a 
 second stand) a bold and dexterous fellow, 
 and, as most affirm, with a particular instru- 
 ment as well as address, stooping under the 
 bellies of the French Ambassador's coach- 
 horses, cut the ham-strings of two of them 
 and wounded a third, which immediately 
 falling, the coach for the present was disabled 
 from advancing farther, the coachman forced 
 out of his box, and the postillion mortally 
 wounded, who, falling into the arms of an 
 English gentleman that stepped in to his 
 succour, was by a Spaniard pierced through 
 his thigh. This disorder (wherein several 
 were wounded and some slain) caused those 
 in the French coach to alight, and so enraged 
 their party, that it occasioned a second brisk 
 assault both of horse and foot, which being 
 received with extraordinary gallantry, many 
 of their horses retreated, and wheeled off 
 towards St. Katharine's. 
 
 It was in this skirmish that some brickbats 
 were thrown from the edge of the wharf, 
 which by a mistake are said to have been 
 provided by the Spanish Ambassador's 
 order the day before. 
 
 In this interim, then (which was near half 
 an hour), the Spanish coach went forward 
 after his Majesty's with about twenty of his 
 retinue following, who still kept their counte- 
 nance towards the French as long as they 
 abode on the wharf, and that narrow part 
 of the bulwark (where the contest was very 
 fierce) without disorder ; so as the first 
 which appeared on Tower-hill, where now 
 they were entering, was his Majesty's coach 
 followed by the Swede's Ambassador's, and 
 next by that of Spain, with about twenty- 
 four or thirty of his liveries still disputing it 
 with a less number of French, who came 
 after them in the rear. 
 
 And here, besides what were slain with 
 bullets on the wharf and near the bulwark, 
 whereof one was a valet de chambre of the 
 Spanish Ambassador's, and six more, 
 amongst which were a poor English 
 plasterer, and near forty wounded, fell 
 one of the French, who was killed just 
 before his Highness's Lifeguard. No one 
 person of the numerous spectators inter- 
 meddling, or so much as making the least 
 
 noise or tumult, people or soldiers, whereof 
 there were three companies of foot, which 
 stood on the hill opposite to the Guards of 
 Horse, 'twixt whom the antagonists lightly 
 skirmished, some fresh parties of French 
 coming out of several places and protected 
 by the English, amongst whom they found 
 shelter till the Spanish Ambassador's coach 
 having gained and passed the chain which 
 leads in Crutched Friars, they desisted and 
 gave them over. 
 
 Near half an hour after this, came the 
 French coach (left all this while in disorder 
 on the wharf), with two horses and a coach- 
 man, who had a carabine by his side, and, 
 as the officers think, only a footman in the 
 coach, and a loose horse running by. Next 
 to him, went the Holland Ambassador's 
 coach, then the Swede's second coach. 
 These being all advanced upon the hill, the 
 Duke of Albemarle's coach, with the rest of 
 the English, were stopped by interposition 
 of his Royal Highness's Lifeguard, which 
 had express order to march immediately 
 after the last Ambassador's coach ; and so 
 they went on, without any farther inter- 
 ruption. 
 
 This is the most accurate relation of what 
 passed, as to matter of fact, from honour- 
 able, most ingenuous, and disinterested 
 eye-witnesses ; as by his Majesty's com- 
 mand it was taken, and is here set down. 
 
 But there is yet something behind which 
 was necessary to be inserted into this Narra- 
 tive, in reference to the preamble ; and, as 
 it tends to the utter dissolving of those 
 oblique suspicious, which have any aspect 
 on his Majesty's subjects, whether spectators, 
 or others ; and therefore it is to be taken 
 notice, that, at the arrival of the Venetian 
 Ambassador, some months since, the Am- 
 bassadors of France and Spain, intending 
 to send both their coaches to introduce him, 
 the Ambassador of Spain having before 
 agreed with the Count de Soissons that they 
 should assist at no public ceremonies, but 
 upon all such casual encounters, pass on 
 their way as they fortuned to meet ; it had 
 been wished that this expedient might still 
 have taken place. But Monsieur d'Estrades 
 having, it seems, received positive commands 
 from his master, 1 that notwithstanding any 
 
 1 ["I deem, therefore, that when once your 
 coach has taken the place due to it immediately 
 after the Swedish Ambassador's, your men must 
 
472 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 such accord, he should nothing abate of his 
 pretence, or the usual respect showed upon 
 all such occasions, he insisted on putting 
 this injunction of the king his master in 
 execution, at arrival of the Swedish Am- 
 bassador. His Majesty, notwithstanding 
 all the just pretences which he might have 
 taken, reflecting on the disorders that might 
 possibly arise in this city, in which for 
 several nights he had been forced to place 
 extraordinary guards ; and, because he 
 would not seem to take upon him the 
 decision of this punctilio, in prejudice of 
 either Ambassador, as his charitable inter- 
 position might be interpreted ; his Majesty 
 declaring himself withal no umpire in this 
 unpleasing and invidious controversy, per- 
 mitted that, both their coaches going, they 
 might put their servants and dependents 
 into such a posture as they should think 
 fittest, and most becoming their respective 
 pretences : but in the meantime commanded 
 (upon pain of his highest displeasure), that 
 none of his Majesty's subjects, of what 
 degree soever, should presume to interpose 
 in their differences. But in truth, the care 
 of his officers, and especially that of Sir 
 Charles Berkeley, captain of His Royal 
 Highness's Lifeguard {which attended this 
 service), was so eminent and particular, 
 that they permitted not a man of the 
 spectators so much as with a switch in his 
 hand, whom they did not chastise severely. 
 
 As to that which some have refined upon, 
 concerning the shower of bricks which fell 
 in this contest (whether industriously placed 
 there or no, for some others of the Spanish 
 party assigned to that post), 'tis affirmed by 
 the concurrent suffrage of all the spectators, 
 that none of them were cast by any of his 
 Majesty's subjects, till, being incensed by 
 the wounds which they received from the 
 shot which came in amongst them (and 
 whereof some of them, 'tis said, are since 
 dead), and not divining to what farther 
 excess this new and unexpected compliment 
 might rise, a few of the rabble, and such as 
 stood on that side of the wharf, were forced 
 to defend themselves with what they found 
 
 not leave it before it has reached the house of the 
 said Ambassador, for fear that at the crossing of 
 some street these Scotch and Irish rush in with 
 might and main and stop you and let Watteville 
 go " (Instructions of Louis to d'Estrades quoted in 
 An Ambassador, etc., itt supra, p. 470).] 
 
 at hand ; and to which, 'tis reported, some 
 of them were animated by a fresh remem- 
 brance of the treatment they received at 
 Chelsea, and not long since at Covent- 
 Garden, which might very well qualify this 
 article from having anything of design that 
 may reflect on their superiors ; nor were it 
 reasonable that they should stand charged 
 for the rudeness of such sort of people, as 
 in all countries upon like occasions and in 
 such a confusion is inevitable. Those who 
 observed the armed multitudes of French 
 which rushed in near the chain on Tower- 
 hill, issuing out of several houses there, and 
 coming in such a tumultuous and indecent 
 manner amongst the peaceable spectators, 
 would have seen that, but for the temper of 
 the officers, and presence of the Guards, 
 into how great an inconveniency they had 
 engaged themselves. Nor have they at all 
 to accuse any for the ill success which 
 attended, if the French would a little reflect 
 upon the several advantages which their 
 antagonists had consulted, to equal that by 
 stratagem which they themselves had gained 
 by numbers, and might still have preserved, 
 with the least of circumspection. 
 
 It was evidently the conduct of the 
 Spaniards, not their arms, which was 
 decisive here ; nor had his Majesty, or his 
 people, the least part in it, but what the 
 French have infinite obligations to ; since, 
 without this extraordinary indulgence and 
 care to protect them, they had, in all pro- 
 bability, drawn a worse inconveniency upon 
 them, by appearing with so little respect to 
 the forms which are used upon all such 
 occasions. 
 
 There need, then, no other arguments to 
 silence the mistakes which fly about, that 
 his Majesty's subjects should have had so 
 much as the least temptation to mingle in 
 this contest, not only because they knew 
 better what is their duty, for reverence to 
 his Majesty's commands (which were now 
 most express), and whose guards were ready 
 to interpose where any such inclination had 
 in the least appeared, so as to do right to 
 the good people spectators (whose curiosity 
 on all such occasions compose no small part 
 of these solemnities), that report which would 
 signify their misbehaviour is an egregious 
 mistake, and worthy to be reproved. Nor 
 becomes it the French (of all the nations 
 under Heaven) to suspect his Majesty of 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 473 
 
 partiality in this affair, whose extraordinary 
 civility to them, ever since his happy restora- 
 tion, has appeared so signal, and is yet 
 the greatest ingredient to this declaration, 
 because by the disquisition of these im- 
 partial truths, he endeavours still to preserve 
 it most inviolable. 
 
 Written by Evelyn underneath. 
 This, Sir, is what I was able to collect of 
 that contest, by his Majesty's special com- 
 mand, from the Right Honourable Sir. 
 W. Compton, Master of the Ordnance of 
 the Tower, and of his major present, of Sir 
 Charles Berkeley, and several others, all 
 there present, and from divers of the in- 
 habitants and other spectators, whom I 
 examined from house to house, from the 
 spot where the dispute began, to Crutched 
 Friars, where it ended. The rest of the 
 reflections were special hints from his 
 Majesty's own mouth, the first time I read 
 
 it to him, which was the second day after 
 the contest. 
 
 Indorsed by Evelyn. — The contest 'twixt 
 the French and Spanish Ambassadors on 
 Tower-hill for Precedency. — Note, That 
 copies of this were despatched to the Lord 
 Ambassador in France, who was my Lord 
 of St. Albans. Also, another was written 
 to be laid up and kept in the Paper Office, 
 at Whitehall. 1 
 
 1 [M. Jusserand (p. 28) quotes from another 
 account with the following title : — " A true rela- 
 tion of the manner of the dangerous dispute 
 and bloody conflict betwixt the Spaniards and 
 the French at Tower Wharf e and Tower Hill 
 on Mottday, September the 30th, 1661 (O.S.) 
 . . . with the number killed and wounded on 
 both sides . . . published for general satisfaction. 
 Cf. also Pepys' Diary for Monday, 30th September. 
 The final victory, however, remained with 
 Louis XIV. Spain gave way to his remonstrances ; 
 Watteville was recalled ; the French precedence 
 established, and a French medal (the die of which 
 still exists) struck to commemorate the result.] 
 
 VI 
 
 LETTERS OF JOHN EVELYN AND ABRAHAM COWLEY 
 
 From John Evelyn to Abraham Cowley. 
 
 Sayes-Court, 1.2th March, 1666-7. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 You had reason to be astonished 
 at the presumption, not to name it affront, 
 that I who have so highly celebrated recess, 
 and envied it in others, should become an 
 advocate for the enemy, which of all others 
 it abhors and flies from. I conjure you to 
 believe that I am still of the same mind, 
 and that there is no person alive who does 
 more honour and breathe after the life and 
 repose you so happily cultivate and adorn 
 by your example : but, as those who praised 
 dirt, a flea, and the gout, so have I Public 
 Employment in that trifling Essay, 1 and that 
 in so weak a style compared to my anta- 
 
 1 [See ante, p. 254.] 
 
 gonist's, as by that alone it will appear I 
 neither was nor could be serious ; and I 
 hope you believe I speak my very soul to 
 you. But I have more to say, which will 
 require your kindness. Suppose our good 
 friend * were publishing some eulogies on 
 the Royal Society, and, by deducing the 
 original progress and advantages of their 
 design, would bespeak it some veneration 
 in the world ? Has Mr. Cowley no inspira- 
 tions for it ? Would it not hang the most 
 heroic wreath about his temples ? Or can 
 he desire a nobler or a fuller argument 
 either for the softest airs or the loudest 
 echoes, for the smoothest or briskest notes 
 of his Pindaric lyre ? 
 
 There be those who ask, What have the 
 Royal Society done ? Where their College ? 
 
 1 [Sprat. See ante, p. 223 «.J 
 
474 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 I need not instruct you how to answer or 
 confound these persons, who are able to 
 make even these inform blocks and stones 
 dance into order, and charm them into 
 better sense. Or if their insolence press, 
 you are capable to show how they have laid 
 solid foundations to perfect all noble arts, 
 and reform all imperfect sciences. It re- 
 quires an history to recite only the arts, the 
 inventions, and phenomena already absolved, 
 improved or opened. In a word, our 
 registers have outdone Pliny, Porta, and 
 Alexis, and all the experimentists, nay, the 
 great Verulam himself, and have made a 
 nobler and more faithful collection of real 
 secrets, useful and instructive, than has 
 hitherto been shown. — Sir, we have a 
 library, a repository, and an assembly of as 
 worthy and great persons as the world has 
 any ; and yet we are sometimes the subject 
 of satire * and the songs of the drunkards ; 
 have a king to our founder, and yet want a 
 Maecenas ; and above all, a spirit like yours, 
 to raise us up benefactors, and to compel 
 them to think the design of the Royal 
 Society as worthy of their regards, and as 
 capable to embalm their names, as the most 
 heroic enterprise, or anything antiquity has 
 celebrated ; and I am even amazed at the 
 wretchedness of this age that acknowledges 
 it no more. But the devil, who was ever an 
 enemy to truth, and to such as discover his 
 prestigious effects, will never suffer the pro- 
 motion of a design so destructive to his 
 dominion (which is to fill the world with 
 imposture and keep it in ignorance), without 
 the utmost of his malice and contradiction. 
 But you have numbers and charms that can 
 bind even these spirits of darkness, and 
 render their instruments obsequious ; and 
 we know you have a divine hymn for us ; 
 the lustre of the Royal Society calls for an 
 ode from the best of poets upon the noblest 
 argument. To conclude : here you have a 
 field to celebrate the great and the good, 
 who either do, or should, favour the most 
 august and worthy design that ever was set 
 on foot in the world : and those who are 
 our real patrons and friends you can eternise, 
 those who are not you can conciliate and 
 inspire to do gallant things. — But I will 
 
 1 [Cf. ante, p. 266. Lord - Keeper North de- 
 clined to join the Society because it " was made 
 very free with by the ridiculers of the town " 
 (Lives o/the Norths, 1826, ii. 179).] 
 
 add no more, when I have told you with 
 great truth that I am, 
 
 Sir, etc. 
 
 From Abraham Cowley to John Evelyn. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Chertsey, 13th May 1667. 
 
 I am ashamed of the rudeness I 
 have committed in deferring so long my 
 humble thanks for your obliging letter, 
 which I received from you at the beginning 
 of the last month. My laziness in finishing 
 the copy of verses upon the Royal Society, 
 for which I was engaged before by Mr. 
 Sprat's desire, and encouraged since by you, 1 
 was the cause of this delay, having designed 
 to send it to you enclosed in my letter : but 
 I am told now that the History is almost 
 quite printed, and will be published so soon, 
 that it were impertinent labour to write out 
 that which you will so suddenly see in a 
 better manner, and in the company of better 
 things. I could not comprehend in it many 
 of those excellent hints which you were 
 pleased to give me, nor descend to the 
 praises of particular persons, because those 
 things afford too much matter for one copy 
 of verses, and enough for a poem, or the 
 History itself ; some part of which I have 
 seen, and think you will be very well satisfied 
 with it. I took the boldness to show him 
 your letter, and he says he has not omitted 
 any of those heads, though he wants your 
 eloquence in expression. Since I had the 
 honour to receive from you the reply to a 
 book written in praise of a solitary life, 2 I 
 have sent all about the town in vain to get 
 the author, having very much affection for 
 the subject, which is one of the noblest con- 
 troversies both modern and ancient ; and 
 you have dealt so civilly with your adversary, 
 as makes him deserve to be looked after. 
 But I could not meet with him, the books 
 being all, it seems, either burnt or bought 
 up. If you please to do me the favour to 
 lend it to me, and send it to my brother's 
 house (that was) in the King's Yard, it shall 
 be returned to you within a few days with a 
 humble thanks of your most faithful obedient 
 servant, A. Cowley. 
 
 1 [Ode "To the Royal Society," Works, 1721, 
 ii- 557-62 (see ante, p. 223).] 
 
 2 [Sir George Mackenzie's Moral Essay upon 
 Solitude, preferring it to Public Employment, 
 1665 (see ante, p. 254).] 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 475 
 
 VII 
 
 CRUCIFIX OF EDWARD THE CONFESSOR 
 
 Feb. 1687-8, there was printed what was 
 called ' ' A true and perfect narrative of the 
 strange and unexpected finding the Crucifix 
 and Gold-chain of that pious Prince, St. 
 Edward the King and Confessor, which was 
 found after six hundred and twenty years' 
 interment, and presented to his most Sacred 
 Majesty, King James the Second. By 
 Charles Taylour, Gent. London, printed 
 by J. B., and are to be sold by Randal 
 Taylour, near Stationers' Hall, 1688." 
 
 He says, that ' ' on St. Barnaby's Day 
 [11 June], 1685, between 11 and 12 at 
 noon, he went with two friends to see the 
 coffin of Edward the Confessor, having 
 heard that it was broke ; fetched a ladder, 
 looked on the coffin and found a hole as 
 reported, put his hand into the hole, and 
 turning the bones which he felt there, drew 
 from under the shoulder-bones a crucifix 
 richly adorned and enamelled, and a golden 
 chain of twenty-four inches long to which it 
 was fixed ; showed them to his two friends ; 
 was afraid to take them away, till he had 
 acquainted the Dean ; put them into the 
 coffin again. But the Dean not being to be 
 spoke with then, and fearing this treasure 
 might be taken by some other, he went two 
 or three hours afterward to one of the choir, 
 acquainted him with what he had found, 
 who accompanied him to the monument, 
 from whence he again drew the crucifix and 
 chain ; his friend advised him to keep them, 
 until he could show them to the Dean (the 
 Bishop of Rochester) : kept them three weeks 
 before he could speak to the Bishop ; went 
 to the Archbishop of York, and showed 
 them ; next morning, the Archbishop of 
 York carried him to the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury at Lambeth, and showed them. 
 After this, he procured an exact drawing to 
 be made of them ; showed them to Sir 
 William Dugdale. — 6th July, the Archbishop 
 of Canterbury told the Bishop of Rochester, 
 who, about four that afternoon, sent for 
 him, and took him to Whitehall, that he 
 
 might present them to the King ; which he 
 did accordingly. The King ordered a new 
 strong wooden coffin to be made to enclose 
 the broken one. The links of the chain 
 oblong, and curiously wrought ; the upper 
 part joined by a locket, composed of a large 
 round knob of gold, massy, in circumference 
 as big as a milled shilling, half an inch 
 thick ; round this went a wire and half a 
 dozen little beads, hanging loose, running 
 to and again on the same, all of pure gold, 
 finely wrought ; on each side of the locket 
 were set two large square stones (supposed 
 to be rubies). From each side of this locket, 
 fixed to two rings of gold, the chain de- 
 scends, and, meeting below, passes through 
 a square piece of gold, of a convenient big- 
 ness, made hollow for the same purpose. 
 This gold wrought into several angles, was 
 painted with divers colours, resembling 
 gems or precious stones, to which the cruci- 
 fix was joined, yet to be taken off by help of 
 a screw. The form of the cross nearest 
 that of a humett^e flory (among the heralds), 
 or rather the [boton^e] ; yet the pieces not 
 of equal length, the perpendicular beam 
 being near one-fourth part longer than the 
 traverse, as being four inches to the ex- 
 tremity, whilst the other scarce exceeds 
 three ; yet all neatly turned at the ends, 
 and the botons enamelled with figures 
 thereon. The cross of the same gold as 
 the chain, but exceeds it by its rich enamel, 
 having on one side a picture of our Saviour 
 Christ in his passion wrought thereon, and 
 an eye from above casting a kind of beam 
 on him ; on the reverse, picture of a Bene- 
 dictine monk in his habit, and on each side 
 of him these capital Roman letters : — 
 
 On the right, And on the left, 
 (A) P 
 
 Z A X AC 
 
 A H 
 
 This cross is hollow, to be opened by two 
 little screws towards the top, wherein it is 
 
476 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 presumed some relic might have been con- 
 served. William I. commanded the coffin 
 to be enshrined, and the shrine covered with 
 plates of gold and silver, adorned with 
 pearls and precious stones. About one 
 hundred and thirty-six years after, the 
 Abbot resolved to inspect the body, said to 
 be incorruptible, and, on opening, found it 
 to be so, being perfect, the limbs flexible : 
 the face covered ; Gundolph, Bishop of 
 Rochester, withdrew the cover, but, with 
 great reverence, covered it again, changing 
 the former vestments, and putting on others 
 of equal price. In 1163, Thomas a Becket 
 procured a canonisation of the King, and in 
 the ceremony the Abbot opened the coffin, 
 found the body lying in rich vestments of 
 
 cloth of gold, having on his feet buskins of 
 purple, and shoes of great price ; the body 
 uncorrupted ; removed the whole body from 
 the stone repository to another of wood, 
 some assisting at the head, others at the 
 arms and legs ; they lifted it gently, and laid 
 the corpse first on tapestry spread on the 
 floor, and then wrapping the same in silken 
 cloths of great value, they put it into the 
 wooden chest, with all those things that 
 were found in the former, except the gold 
 ring which was on the King's finger, which the 
 Abbot, out of devotion, retained, and ordered 
 it to be kept in the Treasury of the Abbey. 
 
 "In 1226, King Henry III. again re- 
 moved the coffin to a chapel built for the 
 purpose." 
 
 II 
 
 EVELYN'S PUBLICATIONS 
 
 The Subjoined List is from a Letter of Evelyn's to Dr. Plot, dated 
 
 16 March, 1682-3. 
 
 Translations. 
 
 1. Of Liberty and Servitude, Lond. 1644 
 [1649], i2mo. 
 
 2. The French Gardener and English 
 Vineyard, 1658, i2mo, 3rd edit. [1672]. 
 
 3. An Essay on the first Book of Lucretius, 
 1656, 8vo. 
 
 4. Gaspar [Gabriel] Naudseus, Instructions 
 concerning Libraries, 1661, 8vo. 
 
 5. A Parallel of the Ancient Architecture 
 with the Modern, with a treatise on Statues, 
 etc., 1664, folio. 
 
 6. An Idea of the Perfection of Painting, 
 1668, 8vo. 
 
 7. The Mystery of Jesuitism, 2 parts 
 [1664], 8vo. 
 
 8. St. Chrysostom's Golden Book for the 
 Education of Children, out of the Greek, 
 1659, i2mo. 
 
 Original Works. 
 
 1. An Apology for the Royal Party, 1659, 
 4to. Three Editions. 
 
 2. Panegyric at his Majesty's Coronation, 
 1 66 1, folio. 
 
 3. Fumifugium, or a prophetic Invective 
 against the Fire and Smoke of London, with 
 its Remedies, 1661, 410. 
 
 4. Sculptura, or the History of the Art of 
 Chalcography, 1662, 8vo. 
 
 5. Publick Employment, and an Active 
 Life preferr'd to Solitude, 1667, 8vo. 
 
 6. History of the Three late Impostors, 
 1669, 8vo. 
 
 7. Kalendarium Hortense, 1664, 1676, 
 8vo. Six Editions. 
 
 8. Sylva [1664, 1670], 1679, folio. Three 
 Editions. 
 
 9. Terra [1676], 1679. Two Editions 
 [8vo]. 
 
 10. Tyrannus, or the Mode [1661], 8vo. 
 
 11. The Dignity of Man, etc., not printed, 
 nearly ready. 
 
 12. Elysium Britannicum, not printed, 
 nearly ready. 
 
 Prepared for the Press. 
 
 A Discourse of Medals. — Of Manuscripts. 
 — Of Stones. — Of Reason in Brute Animals. 1 
 
 1 [The Numismata ; or, a Discourse of Medals, 
 was printed in folio in 1697; the "unfinished 
 Treatise" "Of Manuscripts" occupies pp. 321-36 
 of vol. ii. of Bray's edition of the Memoirs, 
 etc., 1819. The discourses of "Reason in Brute 
 Animals" and "Stones" have not been printed.] 
 There is also at Wotton a chapter of an essay, 
 entitled " De Baculis [Staves]," which from the 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 477 
 
 In a letter to Dr. Beale, 1 ii July, 1679, 
 Evelyn says : "I have sometimes thought of 
 publishing a Treatise of Acetaria, 2 which 
 (though but one of the chapters of Elysium 
 Britannicum) would make a competent 
 volume, accompanied with other necessaries, 
 according to my manner ; but whilst I as 
 often think of performing my so long-since 
 promised (more universal) Hortulan work, I 
 know not how to take that chapter out, and 
 single it for the press, without some blemish 
 to the rest. When again I consider into 
 what an ocean I am plunged, how much 1 
 have written and collected far above these 
 twenty years upon this fruitful and inex- 
 haustible subject (I mean Horticulture) not 
 yet fully digested to my mind, and what 
 insuperable pains it will require to insert the 
 (daily increasing) particulars into what I have 
 already • in some measure prepared, and 
 which must of necessity be done by my own 
 hand, I am almost out of hope, that I shall 
 ever have strength and leisure to bring it to 
 maturity, having for the last ten years of my 
 life been in perpetual motion, and hardly 
 two months in the year at my own habita- 
 tion, or conversant with my family. 
 
 ' * You know what my charge and care has 
 been during the late unhappy war with the 
 Hollanders ; and what it has cost me as to 
 avocations, and for the procuring money, 
 and attending the Lord Treasurer, etc., to 
 discharge the quarters of many thousands. 
 
 ' ' Since that, I have upon me no fewer 
 than three executorships, besides other 
 domestic concerns, either of them enough 
 to distract a. more steady and composed 
 genius than is mine. 
 
 ' ■ Superadd to these the public confusions 
 in church and kingdom (never to be suffi- 
 ciently deplored), and which cannot but most 
 sensibly touch every sober and honest man. 
 
 «' In the midst of these disturbances, who 
 but Dr. Beale (that stands upon the tower, 
 looks down unconcernedly on all those 
 tempests) can think of gardens and fish- 
 ponds, and the dilices and ornaments of 
 peace and tranquillity ! With no little con- 
 flict and force on my other business, I have 
 yet at last, and as I was able, published a 
 
 proem seems to have been intended as jocular, but 
 it begins with great gravity. 
 
 1 [John Beale, F.R.S., 1603-83, Rector of Yeovil, 
 Somerset, and Chaplain to Charles II.] 
 
 - [Published 1699, and dedicated to Lord Somers. j 
 
 third edition of my Sylva [1679], and with 
 such additions as occurred ; and this in 
 truth only to pacify the importunity of very 
 many besides the printer, who quite tired 
 me with calling on me for it, and above all, 
 threatening to reprint it with all its former 
 defects, if I did not speedily prevent it. I 
 am only vexed that it proving so popular as 
 in so few years to pass so many impressions, 
 and (as I hear) gratify the avaricious printer 
 with some hundreds of pounds, there had 
 not been some course taken in it for the 
 benefit of our Society. It is apparent, that 
 near ^500 has been already gotten by it ; 
 but we are not yet economists. 
 
 • ' You know what pillars we have lost : 
 Palmer, 1 Murray, 1 Chester, 2 Oldenburg, 3 
 etc. ; and through what other discourage- 
 ments we still labour ; and therefore you 
 will excuse the zeal and fervour of what I 
 have added in my Epistle to the Reader, if 
 at length it be possible to raise up some 
 generous soul to free us, or emerge out of 
 our difficulties. In all events you will see 
 where my inclinations are fixed, and that 
 love is stronger than death ; and secular 
 affairs, which is the burial of all philoso- 
 phical speculations and improvements ; 
 though they can never in the least diminish 
 the great esteem I have of your friendship, 
 and the infinite obligations I daily receive 
 from your favours." 
 
 Of Books which he had designed to pub- 
 lish, we find various Memoranda in his 
 letters, etc. 
 
 In a letter to Mr. Boyle, 8 [9 ?] August, 
 1659, he says he had intended to write a 
 History of Trades \ but had given it up 
 from the great difficulty he found in the 
 attempt. 
 
 In another, 23rd Nov., 1664, he says, 
 " One Rhea [qu. Ray?] has published a 
 very useful book concerning the Culture of 
 Flowers ; but it does nothing reach my 
 long-since attempted design on that entire 
 subject, with all its ornaments and circum- 
 stances, but God only knows when my 
 opportunities will permit me to bring it to 
 maturity." 
 
 1 Dudley Palmer, 1602 - 66, and Sir Robert 
 Murray, Knt., d. 1673, two of the first Council 
 of the Royal Society. 
 
 2 [See ante, p. 175-] 3 [See ante, p. 223.] 
 
47S 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 In the Preface to the Acetaria, published 
 in 1699, he mentions a Work in which he 
 had spent upwards of forty years, and his 
 collections for which had in that time filled 
 several thousand pages. The author of the 
 Biographia Britannica believes that this was 
 the work, part of which he had showed to 
 his friends under the title of Elysium 
 Britannicum, but which in that Preface he 
 calls "The Plan of a Royal Garden," etc. ; 
 and that his Acetaria and Gardener s 
 Kalendar were parts of it. This is con- 
 firmed by the preceding letter to Dr. Beale. 
 
 Amongst the MSS. at Wotton there are 
 parts of two volumes with the running title 
 of Elysium Britannicum, consisting of miscel- 
 laneous observations on a great variety of 
 subjects, but nothing digested, except a 
 printed sheet of the contents of the intended 
 Work as follows : — 
 
 ELYSIUM BRITANNICUM 
 
 IN THREE BOOKS 
 Prcemissis, pramittendis, etc. 
 
 Book I 
 
 Chap. 1. A Garden derived and defined, 
 with its distinctions and sorts. — 2. Of a 
 Gardener, and how he is to be qualified. — 
 3. Of the Principles and Elements in general. 
 — 4. Of the Fire. — 5. Of the Air and Winds. 
 — 6. Of the Water. — 7. Of the Earth. — 8. 
 Of the Celestial Influences, particularly the 
 Sun, and Moon, and of the Climates. — 9. Of 
 the Four Seasons. — 10. Of the Mould and 
 Soil of a Garden. — n. Of Composts and 
 Stercoration. — 12. Of the Generation of 
 Plants. 
 
 Book II 
 
 Chap. i. Of the Instruments belonging 
 to a Gardener, and their several uses. — 2. 
 Of the situation of a Garden, with its extent. 
 — 3. Of fencing, enclosing, plotting, and 
 disposing the Ground. — 4. Of a Seminary, 
 and of propagating Trees, Plants, and 
 Flowers. — 5. Of Knots, Parterres, Com- 
 partments, Borders, and Embossments. — 6. 
 Of Walks, Terraces, Carpets, and Alleys, 
 Bowling-greens, Malls, their materials and 
 proportions. — 7. Of Groves, Labyrinths, 
 Daedales, Cabinets, Cradles, Pavilions, 
 Galleries, Close -walks, and other Rilievos. 
 
 — 8. Of Transplanting. — 9. Of Fountains, 
 Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas, and Water- 
 works. — 10. Of Rocks, Grots, Cryptas, 
 Mounts, Precipices, Porticos, Vendiducts. — 
 11. Of Statues, Columns, Dials, Perspectives, 
 Pots, Vases, and other ornaments. — 12. Of 
 Artificial Echos, Music, and Hydraulic 
 motions. — 13. Of Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, 
 Insects. — 14. Of Orangeries, and Conserva- 
 tories of rare Plants. — 15. Of Verdures, 
 Perennial-Greens, and perpetual Springs. — 
 16. Of Coronary Gardens, Flowers, and rare 
 Plants, how they are to be propagated, 
 governed, and improved ; together with a 
 Catalogue of the choicest Trees, Shrubs, 
 Plants, and Flowers, and how the Gardener 
 is to keep his Register. — 17. Of the Philo- 
 sophico-Medical Garden. — 18. Of a Vine- 
 yard. — 19. Of Watering, Pruning, Clipping, 
 Rolling, Weeding, etc. — 20. Of the Enemies 
 and Infirmities to which a Garden is ob- 
 noxious, together with the remedies. — 21. Of 
 the Gardener's Almanack, or Kalendarium 
 Hortense, directing what he is to do Monthly, 
 and what Flowers are in prime. 
 
 Book III 
 
 Chap. 1. Of Conserving, Properating, 
 Retarding, Multiplying, Transmuting, and 
 altering the Species, Forms, and substantial 
 qualities of Flowers, etc. — 2. Of Chaplets, 
 Festoons, Flower-pots, Nosegays, and Posies. 
 — 3. Of the Gardener's Elaboratory, and of 
 distilling and extracting of Essences, Resus- 
 citation of Plants, with other rare Experi- 
 ments. — 4. Of Composing the Hortus 
 Hyemalis, and making books of Natural Arid 
 Plants and Flowers, with other curious ways 
 of preserving them in their Natural. — 5. Of 
 planting of Flowers, Flowers enamelled in 
 Silk, Wax, and other artificial representa- 
 tions of them. — 6. Of Hortulan Entertain- 
 ments, to show the riches, beauty, wonder, 
 plenty, delight, and use of a Garden-Festival, 
 etc. — 7. Of the most famous Gardens in the 
 World, Ancient and Modern. — 8. The De- 
 scription of a Villa. — The Corollary and 
 Conclusion. 
 
 Amongst the MSS. at Wotton also, on a 
 separate paper, are the following Memoranda 
 in Evelyn's handwriting: — 
 
 ' ' Things I would write out fair and reform, 
 if I had leisure : — 
 
 Londinum Redivivum, which I presented 
 
APPENDICES 
 
 479 
 
 to the King three or four days after the 
 Conflagration of that City, 1666. 
 
 Pedigree of the Evelyns. 
 
 The three remaining Meditations on Friday, 
 Saturday, and Sunday, being the remaining 
 course of Offices ; to which belongs a Book 
 of Recollection bound in leather. 
 
 A Rational Account of the True 'Religion, 
 or an History of it. With a packet of Notes 
 belonging to it. 
 
 Oeconomist to a Married Friend. 
 
 The Legend of the Pearl. 
 
 Some Letters of mine to Electra and to 
 others in that packet. 
 
 The Life of Mrs. Godolphin. 
 
 A book of Some Observations, Politica's, 
 and Discourses of that kind. 
 
 Thyrsander, a Tragi-Comedy. 
 
 Dignity of Mankind. 
 
 My own Ephemeris or Diary. 
 
 Animadversions upon Spinoza. 
 
 Papers concerning Education. 
 
 Mathematical papers." * 
 
 Of the works by Mr. Evelyn actually 
 published, the list now finally subjoined, 
 comprising many which are included in the 
 collection of Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings 
 edited by Mr. Upcott, will, it is believed, be 
 found tolerably accurate. 
 
 1. Of Liberty and Servitude, 1649, i2mo. 
 
 2. A Character of England, as it was 
 lately presented in a Letter to a Nobleman 
 of France ; with Reflections upon Gallus 
 Castratus, 1651 [?], 3rd edit. 1659. 
 
 3. The State of France. London, 1652, 
 8vo. 
 
 4. An Essay on the first Book of Lucretius 
 de Rerum Natura, interpreted and made into 
 English Verse, 1656, 8vo. The frontis- 
 piece designed by his lady, Mary Evelyn. 
 
 5. Dedicatory Epistles, etc., to "The 
 French Gardener." London, 1658, i2mo. 
 — The third edition, in 1672, was illustrated 
 by plates. — In most of the editions is added 
 "The English Vineyard Vindicated, by 
 John Rose, Gardener to King Charles II." 
 
 1 Of the "things" mentioned in this list as re- 
 served for attention and revision in Evelyn's leisure, 
 the Diary and Letters, and Life of Mrs. Godolphin 
 (see also p. 315 of this volume) have since been given 
 to the world [1818 and 1847] ; and the work entitled 
 A Rational Account of the True Religion, or an 
 History of it, edited from the MSS. at Wotton, 
 has also been published [1850]. It embodies the 
 researches and reflections of Evelyn's life on the 
 subject to which it relates. 
 
 6. The Golden Book of St. Chrysostom, 
 concerning the Education of Children. 
 London, 1659, i2mo. 
 
 7. An Apology for the Royal Party, 
 written in a Letter to a person of the late 
 Council of State : with a Touch at the 
 pretended Plea of the Army. London, 1659, 
 in two sheets, 4to. Three editions. 
 
 8. The late News from Brussels unmasked. 
 London, 1660, 4to. 
 
 9. The manner of the Encounter between 
 the French and Spanish Ambassadors at the 
 Landing of the Swedish Ambassador [1661]. 
 
 10. A Panegyrick at his Majesty King 
 Charles's Coronation. London, 1661, 
 folio. 
 
 11. Instructions concerning the erection of 
 a Library. Written by Gabriel Naude\ 
 published in English with some improve- 
 ments by John Evelyn, Esq. London, 1661, 
 8vo. 
 
 12. Fumifugium ; or the Inconveniency 
 of the Air and Smoke of London dissi- 
 pated. Together with some remedies humbly 
 proposed by John Evelyn, Esq. London, 
 1 66 1, 4to, in 5 sheets, addressed to the 
 King and Parliament, and published by his 
 Majesty's express Command. 1 
 
 13. Tyrannus ; or the Mode ; in a Dis- 
 course of Sumptuary Laws, 1661, 8vo. 
 
 14. Sculptura ; or the History and Art of 
 Chalcography and Engraving in Copper and 
 Mezzo-tinto. Lond. 1662, 8vo. 
 
 15. Sylva ; or a Discourse of Forest-Trees. 
 Lond. 1664, fol. ; 2nd edition 1670; 3rd in 
 1679 ; 4th in 1706, also in folio. — Pomona 
 is an Appendix ; 3rd edition, 1679 ; 4th, 
 1706 ; 5th, 1729. — ft^^This learned work 
 has since been several times republished by 
 Dr. A. Hunter, an eminent physician in 
 York, who has rendered it still more valuable 
 by adding to it the observations of later 
 writers. 
 
 16. Dedicatory Epistles, etc. , to Parallel of 
 A ncient and Modern A rchitecture. London , 
 1664, folio; 4th edit. 1733, fol.; with the 
 Elements of Architecture by Sir Hen. 
 Wotton. 
 
 17. Ditto to ' ' MvvT-qpiov rijs 'Avofilas " ; 
 another part of the Mystery of Jesuitism. 
 Lond. 1664, 8vo. Two parts. 
 
 18. Kalendarium Hortense, Lond. 1664, 
 8vo. — The 2nd and 3rd edit, was in folio, 
 
 1 Reprinted in 1772, in quarto, with an additional 
 Preface. 
 
480 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 bound with the Sylva and Pomona ; also 
 reprinted in octavo in 1699. 
 
 19. Public Employment and active life 
 preferred to Solitude, in reply to Sir Geo. 
 Mackenzie. Lond. 1667, 8vo. 
 
 20. An Idea of the Perfection of Painting, 
 translated from the French of Roland Freart. 
 Lond. 1668 , 8vo. 
 
 21. History of the Three late famous Im- 
 postors. Lond. 1669, 8vo. 
 
 22. Navigation and Commerce, their 
 Original and Progress. Lond. 1674, 8vo. 
 
 23. Terra ; a Philosophical Discourse of 
 Earth. Lond. 1676, 8vo. 
 
 24. Mundus Muliebris. Lond. 1690, 
 4to. 
 
 25. Monsieur de la Quintinye's Complete 
 Gardener, and Treatise of Orange - Trees, 
 translated from the French. Lond. 1693, 
 fol. 
 
 26. Advertisement to the Translation of 
 the Compleat Gardener, by M. de la 
 Quintinye, 1693. 
 
 27. Ditto to M. de la Quintinye's Direc- 
 tions concerning Melons. 
 
 28. Ditto to M. de la Quintinye's Direc- 
 tions concerning Orange-Trees. 
 
 29. Numismata : a Discourse on Medals. 
 Lond. 1697, fol. 
 
 30. Acetaria : a Discourse on Salads. 
 Lond. 1699, 8vo. 
 
 31. An Account of Architects and Archi- 
 tecture — a tract. 
 
 32. Letter to Viscount Brouncker, con- 
 cerning a new Engine for Ploughing, etc. 
 1670. 
 
 33. Dedication to Renatus Rapinus of 
 Gardens, 1673. 
 
 34. Letter to Mr. Aubrey, concerning 
 Surrey Antiquities, 1676. 
 
 35. Abstract of a Letter to the Royal 
 Society concerning the damage done to his 
 Gardens in the preceding Winter, 1684. 
 
 36. The Diary and Letters. 1818, 1819, 
 1827. 
 
 37. Miscellaneous Writings, collected and 
 edited by Mr. Upcott [1825]. 
 
 38. Life of Mrs. Godolphin. 1847. 
 
 Evelyn had likewise etched [see ante, 
 p. 454 «.], when he came to Paris from Italy, 
 five several Prospects of Places which he had 
 drawn on the spot between Rome and Naples, 
 to which he prefixed also a frontispiece, 
 intituled, 
 
 ' ' Locorum aliquot insignium et celeberri- 
 morum inter Romam et Neapolin jacentium, 
 birodei^eis et exemplaria. 
 
 * ' Domino Dom. Thomoe Hensheaw Anglo, 
 omnium eximiarum et prseclarissimarum 
 Artium Cultori ac propugnatori maximo, et 
 avvoxf/dfievcf) dvr<^ (non propter Operis 
 pretium, sed ut singulare Amoris sui Testi- 
 monium exhibeat) primas has aSoKifiaaias 
 Aqua forti excusas et insculptas, Jo. Evelynus 
 Delineator D. D. C. Q." R. Hoare excud. 1 
 
 I. Tres Tabernae sive Appii Forum, celebre 
 illud, in sacris Litteris. Act. 28. 
 
 II. Terracini, olim Anxuris, Promontorium. 
 
 III. Prospectus versus Neapolin, a Monte 
 Vesuvio. 
 
 IV. Montis Vesuvii Fauces : et Vorago, 
 sive Barathrum internum. 
 
 V. Montis Vesuvii juxta Neapolin externa 
 Facies. 
 
 He etched also a View of his own Seat at 
 Wotton, then in the possession of his brother, 
 George Evelyn {ante, p. 170) ; and Putney 
 ad Ripam Tamesis — corrected on one im- 
 pression, by himself, to Battersea (see 
 p. 149). 
 
 1 [According to Walpole's Catalogue of En- 
 g7-avers (Dallaway's ed., 1828, pp. 174-77). tn » s on ^y 
 means that the plates, executed at Paris in 164a, 
 were "taken off" hy R. Hoare (see ante, p. 150). 
 There are other etchings at the British Museum ; 
 and from a letter to Pepys, dated 20th January, 
 1668, it seems that Evelyn also made a "Prospect 
 of Medway, while the Hollander rode master in it," 
 from the hill above Gillingham. The original sketch 
 — says Mynors Bright — is in the Bodleian.] 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 A Becket, St. Thomas, relic of, 
 83, 101 
 
 Abbeville, notice of, 27 
 
 Abbot, Dr. George, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, his hospital at 
 Guildford, 172 and n. 
 
 Abbot, Mr., a scrivener, 322 ; con- 
 demned as a loyalist, tb. 
 
 Abdy, Mr., Introduction, xvii, 
 
 I 3° 
 Abell, John, his voice, 338 and «. 
 
 Abington, Montague Bertie, Earl 
 
 of, Lieutenant of the Tower, 
 
 displaced, 459 
 Ab's Court. See Apps Court 
 Academies, at Richelieu, 47 ; 
 
 Paris, 42 and «., 153, 154; 
 
 Rome, 101 ; de la Crusca, 113 ; 
 
 curriculum at, 42 n. ; fantastic 
 
 titles of Italian, 101 «. ; M. 
 
 Foubert's, in London, 336 «., 
 
 34 2 i 3 61 
 Acetaria (1699), by Evelyn, 448 
 
 and «., 477 and »., 480 
 Acheron, and Lake Acherusia, 97 
 Acqua Paula, fountain of, 89 
 Acquapendente, Fabricius de, 62 
 
 and n. ; town of, ib. 
 Act at Oxford (1654), x 75 "» (1664), 
 
 232 ; (1669), 266 ; (1675), 300 
 Act of Association (1696), 439, 
 
 441, 450 n. 
 Acts, of the Apostles, MS. of, 86 ; 
 
 of the Council of Basle, 175 
 Adams, a servant of Evelyn, 289 
 Addiscombe, Croydon, 431, 438, 
 
 449, 455. 457 and «« 
 Addison, Joseph, his works, etc., 
 
 cited, 36 «., 43 «., 45 »•» 55 »•» 
 56 «., 57 n., 60 «., 61 »., 81 «., 
 94 «,, 95 n. 
 
 Addison, Life of Joseph (Lucy 
 Aikin), cited, 36 n. 
 
 Addresses to the King, 398, 399, 
 443 ; origin of, 443 > 
 
 ^Admiralty, Commissioners of, 
 abolished, 358, 432 ; incom- 
 petency of. 420 
 
 Adometer, Colonel Blount's, 194 
 and «. 
 
 Adrian IV., Pope, tomb of, 83 
 
 Adriatic, Gulf of the, notice of, 
 
 117; espousal of, by Doge of 
 
 Venice, 1 17-18, 124, 223 
 Adventures of Five Hours, a 
 
 play (1663), 151 «., 226 
 ALgyptiacus, Obeliscus, by Father 
 
 Kirch er, 189 ' 
 iEsculapius, Temple of, Rome, 99 
 Agates, etc., curious, 28, 31, 54, 
 
 127, 185, 186, 329 
 Ages^rdrus, sculptor, 86 
 Aghrim, battle of (1691), 425 and 
 
 «. 
 Agresti, Livio, painting by, 85 «. 
 -Agrippina, Julia, mother of Nero, 
 
 her sepulchre, 97 
 -Ague, cure for the, 339 and n. 
 Aiguillon, Duchess d', 34 «. 
 Aikin, Lucy, Life of Joseph 
 
 Addison, cited, 36 
 Ailesbury, Memoirs of Thomas, 
 
 Earl of, cited, 363 n., 364 «., 
 
 377 «■ 
 Air, perfume of the Italian, 53 
 
 and n. ; experiment on, 220 
 
 Airy's Charles II., 1901, cited, 
 
 Introduction, xxviii, 346 «., 352 
 
 «•» 353 «• 
 Aitzema, Lieuwe van, his book on 
 
 the Dutch War, Introduction, 
 
 xxix 
 
 Aix in Provence, account of, 50 
 
 Alassio, coral at, 52 
 
 Albano, tombs of the Horatii and 
 Curiatii at, 98 
 
 Albemarle, George Monck, Duke 
 of, various references to, 227, 
 228, 233, 235, 236, 238, 239, 240, 
 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 256, 286, 
 335. 342, 343. 468, 469 ; stays in 
 London during the plague(i66s), 
 240 ; appointed General at sea, 
 etc., 241 ; his victory over the 
 Dutch fleet, 244 
 
 Albemarle, Christopher, 2nd Duke 
 of, 352 ; share of a Spanish 
 galleon, 398 and n. ; trial re- 
 specting his estate, 432 and n. , 
 441, 451 and «., 454 
 
 Albemarle, Ann Clarges, Duchess 
 of, 292, 451 n. 
 
 481 
 
 Albemarle, Elizabeth Cavendish, 
 
 Duchess of, 433 n. 
 Albemarle, Arnold Joost Van 
 
 Keppel, 1st Earl of, 446 and «. 
 Albejrnarle House and buildings, 
 
 notice of, 347 n. 
 Albert Eremitano, bust of ; 125 
 Alberti, Cherubino, paintings by, 
 
 85 and n. 
 Albius, Thomas, 159 n. 
 Albury Park, Surrey, seat of the 
 
 Howards, 25 and »., 146, 148 ; 
 
 the grounds improved by Eve- 
 lyn, 186, 221, 259 and «., 
 
 3£9 ; bought by Mr. Solicitor 
 
 1 inch (1687), 399 
 Alchemist, a pretended one at 
 
 Paris (1650), 157, 159 ; stories of 
 
 an, 164 
 Alcoran, MS. of, at Oxford, 
 
 176 
 Alcuinus, the martyr, 264 n. 
 Alclermaston, 174 
 Aldobrandini, Cardinal Pietro, 
 
 garden and house of, 81, 107 ; 
 
 Cardinal Hippolito, noticed, 
 
 108 and n. 
 Aldrich, Dr., 392 
 Aldrovandus, museum, etc., of, 
 
 115 «■ 
 Aldus, books printed by, 349 
 Alessandro, Signor, musician, 82, 
 
 152 
 Alexander III., Pope, painting 
 
 respecting, 85 and n. ; alluded 
 
 to, 119 
 Alexander VII., Pope, Fabio 
 
 Chigi, his intrigues with the 
 
 Queen of Sweden, 330 and n. 
 Alexander VIII., Pope Peter 
 
 Ottoboni, 417 and «. 
 Algardi, Alessandro, architect, 
 
 109 and n 
 
 Allegri, Antonio da Correggio, 
 paintings by. See Correggio 
 
 Allen, Captain Sir Thomas, 237 
 and n., 278 
 
 Allestree, Dr. Richard, Dean of 
 Westminster, 208 and n., 213, 
 267, 428 n. ; sermons of, 208, 
 299. 323 
 
 2 I 
 
482 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Alleyn, Edward, his college at 
 
 Dulwich, 302 
 Allibone, Sir Richard, Justice of 
 
 the King's Bench, a Papist, 
 
 403 and n. 
 Allington, William, Lord, 271 
 
 and n. ; his house at Horse- 
 heath, ib., 2tj 
 Allington, Rev. John, preaches 
 
 against regicides, 182 
 Allix, Dr. Peter, 384 and «., 392 
 All Souls, church at Lewes, 3 
 All Souls' College, Oxford, 175 ; 
 
 painting in the chapel of, 233 
 Alps, journey over the (1646), 
 
 137-9 
 Alstedius, John Henry, referred 
 
 to, 159, 231, 434 
 Alston, Sir Edward, President of 
 
 the College of Physicians (1664), 
 
 231 and n. 
 Althorp, Northamptonshire, seat 
 
 of Lord Sunderland, 301 and «., 
 
 311, 404, 405 ; earthquake at, 
 422 ; William III. visits, 439 
 
 Amazons in Persia, 328 
 
 Ambassadors, on the contention 
 between the French and Spanish 
 (1661), 215, 470; narrative by 
 Evelyn vindicating the King 
 and his servants, ib. ; receptions 
 and entries of, Russian, 225, 
 226, 259, 337 ; French, 263 ; 
 Swedish, 261 ; Venetian, 263, 
 386, 440 ; Danish, 268; Portugal, 
 318 ; Morocco, 337 ; by Queen 
 Catharine after death of Charles 
 II., 367. See Embassies 
 
 Amber, spider, etc., enclosed in, 
 
 312, 340; cabinet of, 431 
 Ambleteuse, Brittany, 409 
 Amboise, village and castle, 
 
 noticed, 45 and n. 
 Amboise, Cardinal George d', 
 
 birthplace, 45 and n. ; his tomb, 
 
 38 and «., 50 
 Amboise, Chapel d', at Rouen, 
 
 38 and «. 
 Ambrosian library at Milan, 134 
 Ammanati, Vincenzo, architecture 
 
 of, 103 
 Amoncourt, Paul Barrillon d', 
 
 French Ambassador (1685), 3S6 
 
 and n. 
 Amours de Voyage (Clough), 
 
 cited, 69 n. 
 Amphitheatre at Vienne, 50 ; at 
 
 Perigueux, 52 ; of Vespasian, 
 
 71, 72 ; at Verona, 131 
 Ampoule, Holy, at Abbey of 
 
 Marmoutiers, 46 and n. 
 Amsterdam, account of (1641), 14- 
 
 16 ; hospital, 15 n. \ charges 
 
 against Deputies of, 357 
 Anabaptists, 15, 309 and n. \ one, 
 
 Lord Mayor of London, 399 ; 
 
 their objection to oaths, 195 ; 
 
 increase of, ib. ; join Duke of 
 
 Monmouth, 375 
 Anacletus, St., 74 
 Anastasius, St., burial-place, 104 
 
 Anatomy, school of, at Leyden, 
 17 and n. ; at Padua, 125, 129 
 and n. ; at Oxford, 176 
 
 Anchor, method of casting in 
 Acts xxvii. 29 illustrated, 359 
 
 Anchorite of Mount Calvary near 
 Paris, 151 
 
 Anderson, Sir Richard, 330 and 
 «., 346 
 
 Andoyne, Abbot of, 24 
 
 Andreas, John, 115 and «. 
 
 Andrew, St., head and statue of, 
 76 
 
 Andrews, Dr. Launcelot, Bishop 
 of Winchester, 183, 319, 349 
 
 Angel gold, touch money, 205 and 
 n. ; ductility of, 352 
 
 Angelico, an apothecary at Vi- 
 cenza, 131 
 
 Angelis, Paulus de, 70 «. 
 
 Angeloni, Signor, his medals, etc., 
 68, 99 
 
 Angera, 137 
 
 Angle, M. de ]', Minister of 
 Charenton, 347 
 
 Anglesea, Arthur Annesley, Earl 
 of, Viscount Valentia, 210, 263 
 
 Animals, an exhibition of repre- 
 sentations of wild, 294 and n. 
 See Menageries 
 
 Animals, Reason in Brute, by 
 Evelyn, 476 and n. 
 
 Anio, cascade of the, 109 
 
 Anjou, Gaston Jean - Baptiste, 
 Duke of, performs in an opera 
 (1651), 158 ; his embassy to 
 Charles II., 206 
 
 Anna, St., relic of, 87 
 
 Anne, of Denmark, Princess, 
 afterwards Queen, 350, 371, 373, 
 386, 395, 39 6 ; ner .marriage, 
 350 ; right of succession to the 
 Crown, 410, 412, 417 ; refuses 
 to dismiss Lady Marlborough, 
 427 ; lives at Syon House, ib. 
 and n. ; coolness with Queen 
 Mary, 428; William III. re- 
 conciled to, 436 and n. ; enter- 
 tained when Queen at Oxford, 
 etc., 455 ; entertains King 
 Charles III. of Spain, 457 ; 
 goes in procession to St. Paul's 
 Cathedral (1704), 458 
 
 Anne of Austria, death of (1666), 
 
 ^— 242 and n. " 
 
 Annunciata, churches of, 55 and 
 n., 59, 112 
 
 Antenor, founder of Padua, in- 
 
 -Her-iptions to, 123 
 
 Anthony, St., tomb of, 123 
 
 Antibes, 52 
 
 Antichrist, final destruction of, 
 
 Antiquities, Dictionary 0/ 
 (Smith's), cited, 70 n. 
 
 Antonine's Itinerary, 199 
 
 Antoninus, Marcus Aurelius, Em- 
 peror of Rome) his baths, 100 ; 
 column of, 102 ; his palace, ib. 
 
 Antonio, Marc, singer, 109 ; an 
 enameller, etc., at Paris, 164 
 
 Antwerp, ancount of (1641), 20-22 ; 
 
 cathedral, the view from the 
 
 tower, 21 and n. ; Plantin's 
 
 "shop," 22 and n. ; its trees, 
 
 22 and n. 
 Anxur, 90, 480 
 Apennines, passage over the 
 
 (1645), 114 
 Apiaries, transparent, notice of, 
 
 176 
 Apollo (or Devil) Tavern, near 
 
 Temple Bar, 418 and «. 
 Apollo, Temples of, 97 
 Apollodorus, sculpture by, 104 
 Apollonius, sculptor, 64 
 Apology /or the Royal Party 
 
 (1659), by Evelyn, 201 and «., 
 
 47 6 » 479 
 Aponius, Peter, bust of, at Padua, 
 
 125 
 
 Apothecaries' Garden, Chelsea, 
 
 37? 
 
 Appian Way, its extent, etc., 89, 
 90 and «. 
 
 Appii Forum, etched by Evelyn, 
 480 
 
 Apps, or Ab's, Court, near 
 Walton-on-Thames, 294 and n. 
 
 Apsley, Captain, 12 
 
 Aqua Claudia, 105 
 
 Aqua Triuinphalis, etc., en- 
 graved by John Tatham (1662), 
 223 n. 
 
 Aquinas, St. Thomas, burial- 
 place, 89 and n. ; alluded to, 92 
 
 Ara Coeh, church of, at Rome, 
 66,83 
 
 Arabian horses, account of some, 
 361 
 
 Araisso, coral fishing at, 52 
 
 Arch, of Titus, 71 ; of Constantine, 
 34, 72 ; triumphal arches in 
 London, 211 
 
 Archceologia, cited, n n., 304 »., 
 
 344 «•, 354 »■ 
 Architects in Rome (1645), io 9 
 Architects and Architecture, a 
 
 tract by Evelyn, 480 
 A rchitecture, Elements of, by Sir 
 
 Henry Wotton, 479 
 Architecture, Parallel between 
 
 Ancient and Modern (1664), 
 
 by Evelyn, Introduction, xxvi, 
 
 232 and «., 233, 476, 479 
 Arconati, Cavahero Galeazzo, his 
 
 gift to the Ambrosian Library, 
 
 134 
 
 Arena at Verona, 131 
 
 Aretino, Pietro, tomb of, 125 and n. 
 
 Argyll, Archibald Campbell, Mar- 
 quis of, 190, 192 ; executed, 220; 
 notice of, iqo n. 
 
 Argyll, Archibald, ninth Earl, son 
 of the preceding, 220 ; his re- 
 bellion, 373 and n. ; executed, 
 
 375 
 
 Ariosto, tomb of, 117 and «. 
 
 Arlington, Sir Henry Bennet, 
 Earl of, Secretary of State, 
 dinners with, 246, 265, 270, 273, 
 274, 276, 279, 290, 302, 305, 306, 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 483 
 
 35 1 , 353 J references to, 215 and 
 «., 216, 219, 230, 233, 236, 237, 
 242, 253, 257, 258, 265, 271, 275, 
 2 77> 2 78, 280, 287, 290, 292, 295, 
 
 302. 305, 3°7> 3", 321, 322, 354i 
 360; suspected of Roman 
 Catholicism, 284 ; Lord Cham- 
 berlain, 279, 367 ; Mulberry 
 Garden granted to, 173 n. ; his 
 daughter married when five 
 years old, 287 and «., 309, 322 ; 
 Goring House burned, 296 ; his 
 pictures, 306 and n. ; rebuilt 
 Euston church and parsonage, 
 308, 309 ; his seat at Euston, 
 279, 280, 308, 309 ; life and 
 character, 295,309,310; wounded 
 in the face, 309 and n. ; died a 
 Roman Catholic, 381 and n. 
 
 Arlington, Countess of, 290, 309 
 and n., 322, 347, 352, 388, 394 
 
 Arlington House, in London, 327 
 
 Arminians, Synod against at 
 Dort (1618-1619), n and n. 
 
 Armorer, Sir James and Sir 
 Nicholas, 257 and n. 
 
 Armoury at Genoa, 54 and n. , ; at 
 Florence, 59 and n., 113 ; the 
 Pope's, in the Vatican, 86 ; at 
 Venice, 120 
 
 Armstrong, Sir Thomas, 348 and 
 n. ; his execution, etc., 359 and 
 »., 440 
 
 Army, Rebel army (1648), 146 ; 
 expels the Parliament, 201 ; 
 standing army limited to 7000 
 men, 445 
 
 Arno, notice of the River, 56 
 
 Arnold, Michael, a brewer, against 
 the seven bishops (1688), 403 
 
 Arona, 137 
 
 Arpino, Cavaliero Giuseppe d', 
 paintings by, 65, 68, 108; mosaics 
 by, 75. 77 and n. _ 
 
 Arran, James Hamilton, Earl of, 
 343 and «., 379; his marriage, 
 400, 405 
 
 Arran, Lady Ann Spencer, Coun- 
 tess of, 400, 404, 405 
 
 Arsenal at Florence, 113 ; at 
 Venice, 123 ; at Geneva, 143 
 
 Artemidorus, sculptor, 86 
 
 Arthur, King, Round Table at 
 Winchester, 25 
 
 Arundel of Wardour, Lord, 202, 
 230, 276, 279, 317 »., 368; re- 
 leased from the Tower, 362, 374 ; 
 (1687) Privy Seal, 395 
 
 Arundel and Surrey, Thomas 
 Howard, Earl of, Earl Marshal, 
 references to, 9 and n., 18 and 
 n., 23 and «., 24 and »., 25, 64, 
 100, 126 and_ «., 132, 134, 313, 
 331 ; portrait, 431 ; his last 
 sickness, etc., 130 and n. 
 
 Arundel and Surrey, Henry 
 Frederick Howard, Earl of, and 
 Elizabeth Stuart, his countess 
 
 (1649), 149* lSl 
 Arundel and Surrey, Henry 
 Howard, Lord married to 
 
 Lady Mary Mordaunt (1677), 
 307 ; alluded to (1679), 3*7 an d 
 
 «•> 333 an d »• 
 
 Arundel and Surrey, Earl of, 
 Manor of Worksop belonging 
 to, 180 
 
 Arundel and Surrey, Countess of, 
 146 and n. See also Howard 
 and Norfolk 
 
 Arundel House, various references 
 to, 10 and »., 193, 201, 217, 218, 
 221, 227, 253, 255, 261, 282, 294, 
 
 304 
 
 Arundel Street and Stairs, notices 
 of, 25 and n. 
 
 Arundelian Library, procured for 
 the Royal Society by Evelyn, 
 253 and «., 265 
 
 Arundelian Marbles, procured by 
 Evelyn for the University of Ox- 
 ford, 126 n. ; remainder bought 
 by Sir William Fermor, 423 
 and n. 
 
 Ascension Day, ceremony on, at 
 Venice, 117; sports of Ascension 
 Week, 121 
 
 Ascham, Roger, portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Ashburnham, Mr. John, 228, 258 
 and n. 
 
 Ashley, Sir Anthony Ashley 
 Cooper, Lord (167 1-2), 264 and 
 «., 277, 284 
 
 Ashmole, Elias, the antiquary, 
 187 and «., 198, 337, 376 n. ; his 
 library, museum, portrait, and 
 collection of coins, 195 and «., 
 312 and «. ; his history of the 
 Order of the Garter, 312 and n. 
 
 Ashtead, Surrey, seat of Sir Robert 
 Howard at, 358 and n. 
 
 Ashton, John, executed (1691), 423 
 
 Ashurst, Sir Henry, 427 n., 441 
 
 Ashurst, Sir William, a subscriber 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 437 and 
 n., 442 n. 
 
 Ash- Wednesday, observance of, 
 neglected, 173 
 
 Assassination Plot (1696), 439 and 
 n., 440 
 
 Association, Act of (1696), 439, 441 
 
 Atlienoe Oxonienses (Wood's), 
 cited, 63 n. 
 
 Atkins, Sir Jonathan, 287 and «., 
 
 2 94 . 
 
 Atkins, Sir Robert, Puisne Justice 
 
 of the Common Pleas, 320 «., 
 
 400 n. 
 Atterbury, Dr. Francis, Bishop of 
 
 Rochester, 453 
 Attorneys, number of, reduced, 
 
 449 
 Atwood, Mr. William, 400 n. 
 Aubigny, Lord, Almoner to the 
 
 Queen, 163 and «., 230 ; his 
 
 character, 218 
 Aubrey, John, his History of 
 
 Surrey referred to, 257 n. ; 
 
 letter to, 480 
 Audley-End, Essex, Palace of the 
 
 Earl of Suffolk, 184 and »., 272, 
 
 310, 352 «. 
 
 Auger, Sir Anthony, 257 
 Augustus Octavius Caesar, Em- 
 peror of Rome, his aqueduct, 
 
 89 ; Temple of, at Puteoli, 96 ; 
 
 obelisk of, 74 
 Aungier, Lord, 184 and »., 312 
 Aurelius,Marcus,equestrian statue 
 
 of, 65 
 Aurum Potabile, prepared by M. 
 
 Roupel, 171 
 Austen, Colonel, a subscriber to 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Austine, Mr., Secretary of Royal 
 
 Society, 337 
 Avernus, Lake, Naples, 96 
 Aversa, 91 
 Aviaries, notices of various, 13, 23, 
 
 33. 37> 54 and «., 58, 72, 105, 
 
 107, 108, 173 
 Avignon, account of, 50 
 Axtall, Daniel, regicide, executed, 
 
 206 
 Aylesbury, Robert Bruce, Earl of, 
 
 342, 409 i 
 Ayscue, Sir George, captured by 
 
 the Dutch, 244 
 
 Babel, Tower of, 294 
 Backhouse, Sir William, 383 
 Bacon, Dr., at Rome, 63 
 Bacon, Sir Edward, 308 
 Bacon, Sir Francis, Essay Of 
 
 Gardens cited, 54 and n. 
 Bacon, Roger, portrait, 264 n. 
 Baculis,De, treatise by Evelyn, 476 
 Baddeley, Mr. St. Clair, Hare's 
 
 Walks in Rome by, cited, 69 n. } 
 
 71 «., 99 n., 100 ti. 
 Baden, Prince Lewis of, in London, 
 
 432 . . g 
 
 Baghoni, Cavahere, paintings by, 
 
 64, 70, 101 
 Bagni di Tritoli, 97 
 Bagnios, at Venice, 117 
 Bagshot, Surrey, 379 and «., 383 
 
 and n. 
 Bahamas, treasure from, 398 and n. 
 Baiae, 94, 96 
 Baily, Dr., Vice - Chancellor of 
 
 Oxford University, 6 
 Baize and Says, manufacture of, 
 
 at Colchester, 190 and n. 
 Baker, Captain, attempts the 
 
 North-West Passage, 305 
 Baker, Mr., his house in Epping 
 
 Forest, 268 and n., 345 
 Baker, Sir Richard, his Chronicle 
 
 referred to, 466 
 Balance of Power, Essays upon 
 
 tlie, by Dr. C. Davenant, cited, 
 
 453 and n. 
 Baldarius, Andrea, 125 
 Baldassare. See Peruzzi 
 Ball, Sir Peter, 218 
 Ballard, George, his Memoirs of 
 
 Learned Ladies referred to, 
 
 264 n. 
 Balle, Dr. Peter, his gift to the 
 
 Royal Society, 229 and n. 
 Balliol College, 1899, Davis's, cited 
 
 6 11. 
 
484 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Balliol College, Oxford, Evelyn a 
 
 Fellow Commoner of, 6, 175 ; 
 
 his gift of books to, 6 and n. ; 
 
 his grandson enters, 445 
 Ball's Park, Hertfordshire, 26 n. 
 Banbury, Nicholas Knollys, Earl 
 
 0^1645), robbed in Italy, 89 and». 
 Bancroft, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 
 Oxford, 8 and n. 
 Bancroft, Dr. Richard ? Archbishop 
 
 of Canterbury, his library, 183 
 Bandinelli, Baccio, productions of, 
 
 58, 59, 112 
 Banditti in Italy, 89, 132 ; 111 
 
 France, 43, 150, 158 
 Bank, for the poor in Padua, 125 ; 
 
 of England, established (1694), 
 
 434. 433 and «*i 44 2 
 Banks, Sir John, an opulent 
 
 merchant, 305 
 
 Banqueting - house, touching for 
 the evil at the, 205 ; creation of 
 Peers there, 210; lottery held 
 there, 231 ; auction of pictures 
 at, 431 ; reception of Ambas- 
 sadors in, 206, 337 
 
 Banstead, Surrey, Roman medals 
 found near, 199 and n. 
 
 Bantam, or East India Ambas- 
 sadors, 341 and n. 
 
 Bantry Bay, battle in (1689), 416 
 and n. 
 
 Baptism, of a Turk and a Jew, 
 103 ; private, censured, 414 
 
 Baptist, Signor John, 359, 362 
 
 Baptistery, of San Giovanni, 56 ; 
 of St. John Baptist, 77 
 
 Baraterius, Nicholas, architect, 
 121 and n. 
 
 Barbadoes, 214, 221, 278, 283, 285, 
 294 ; conspiracy of negroes at 
 (1693), 430 
 
 Barbadoes, History of the Island 
 of, Ligon (1673), 263 and n. 
 
 Barbarossa, Emperor Frederick, 
 
 "9 
 Barberini, Cardinal Francesco, his 
 
 courtesy to the English, 77 ; 
 
 account of, 77 n. ; noticed, 79 
 
 and «., 101, 107 
 Barberini, Palazzo, Rome, 66 
 Barberino, Cardinal Antonio, 71 
 Barclay, John, his IconAnimarum 
 
 (1614), 170 and n. 
 Bargrave, Dr. John, 285 and n. 
 Banll, Mr., 146 
 
 Baritiere, Signor, of Florence, 57 
 Barlow, Francis, painter, notices 
 
 of, 188 and «., 335 
 Barlow, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of 
 
 Lincoln, 175 and «., 232, 259, 
 
 260, 267, 300 and n. 
 Barlow, Mrs., mother of Duke of 
 
 Monmouth, account of, 151 and 
 
 *•• 3 77 
 
 Barneveldt, J. van Olden, 13 
 
 and n, 
 
 Barnstaple, earthquake at (1690), 
 
 422 
 Baron, Bernard, engraving from 
 
 Titian by, 198 
 
 Baronius, Cardinal Caesar, his 
 sepulchre, 68 and «. ; references 
 to, 55 «., 68, 69 n. 
 
 Barrett's Trinity House (1895), 
 cited, 276 n. , 378 n. 
 
 Barrillon, Mons., French Ambas- 
 sador (1685). See Amoncourt, d' 
 
 Barrow, Dr. Isaac, Bishop of 
 Chester, sermon by, 299 and «. 
 
 Bartholomeo, Signor, musician, 
 
 323. 339. 368 _ 
 Bartholomew Fair (1648), 146 
 Bartholomew, St, burial-place, 99 
 
 and n. ; statue of, 133 and «. 
 Bartoletus, Fabritius, 260 «. 
 Kartolommeo. See Porta 
 Barton, Mr. John, his death, 171 
 
 and n. 
 Barton, Lincolnshire, 181 
 BasiliscOj or great gun, at Ghent 
 
 and Milan, 24 and n. 
 Basire, Dr. Isaac, 216 and «., 224 
 Basle, Council of, original Acts of 
 
 the, 175 ; books printed at, 314 
 Bassano. See Ponte 
 Bassano, Dominico, and his 
 
 daughter, musicians, 128 
 Bassano, Veronese, paintings by, 
 
 82 
 Bassompierre, Francois, Baron de, 
 
 his palace, 28 and n. 
 Bastides, or country - houses of 
 
 Provence, 51 and n. 
 Bastille, at Paris, 32 and n. 
 Batavia Illustrata (Peter Schry- 
 
 ver or Scriverius, 1609), 13 n. 
 Batavia, New, strange earthquake 
 
 at, 447 
 Bath, description of, 174 and ». ; 
 
 declares for Prince of Orange, 
 
 408 
 Bath, John Grenville, Earl of, 
 
 account of, 210 n. ; references 
 
 to, 305, 311, 342, 346, 362, 364, 
 
 367, 374, 399 ; trial with, con- 
 cerning an estate left by the 
 
 Duke of Albemarle, 432 and «., 
 
 441, 454 ; his death, ib. ; suicide 
 
 of his son, ib. 
 Bath, Knights of the, creation of 
 
 (1661), 210 ; Evelyn declines the 
 
 honour, ib. 
 Baths, medicinal, 48 ; Diocle- 
 tian's at Rome, 69 and n. \ of 
 
 Titus, 80 
 Bathurst, Mr., of Trinity College, 
 
 6 
 Bathurst, Mr., a merchant, 299 
 Bathurst, Dr. Ralph, Dean of 
 
 Wells, 243 and «., 254, 259, 300 ; 
 
 his death, 458 ; Warton's Life 
 
 of cited, 63 n. 
 Battersea, etching by Evelyn, 480 
 Bauli, now Bacolo, notice of, 97 
 
 and n. 
 Bayley, Dr., Vice -Chancellor of 
 
 Oxford (1636), 461 
 Baynards, at Ewhurst, Surrey, 
 
 145 ; described, 194 and n. 
 Baynton, Sir Edward, his house 
 
 at Spye Park, 177 
 
 Beach, Sir R., 381 
 
 Beaconsfield, Lord, reference to 
 Evelyn in Lothair cited, Intro- 
 duction, xxxvii 
 
 Beale, Dr. John, letters of Evelyn 
 to, on his "Acetaria" and 
 Hortulan collections, etc., 477 
 and n., Introduction, xxxvii n. 
 
 Bear-garden, Southwark, sports at 
 the (1670), 270 and n. 
 
 Beauce (Belsia), county of, 43 
 
 Beauchamp, Lady, 187 
 
 Beaufort, Henry Somerset, first 
 Duke of, his house at Chelsea, 
 317 and «., 351 ; death of, 449 
 and n. ; his family, 344 
 
 Beaufort House, Chelsea, 219 and 
 «., 317 n. 
 
 Beauvais, town of, 27 
 
 Becher, Mr., 262 
 
 Beck's Drapers Dictionary, cited, 
 190 n. 
 
 Becket, St. Thomas a, 476; relic 
 of, 83 
 
 Beckford, Lady, 66, 324 
 
 Beddington House, seat of the 
 Carews, 4 and «., 199 and «., 
 
 45i 
 Bede, Venerable, MS. of, in the 
 
 Bodleian Library, 176 ; portrait, 
 
 264 «. 
 Bedford, William Russell, Earl of, 
 
 210, 262, 317, 362 
 Bedford House, Bloomsbury, 235 
 
 and n. 
 Bedlam Hospital, noticed, 193, 
 
 312 and n. 
 Bedloe, William, a witness against 
 
 Sir George Wakeman, 320 and n. 
 Bedsteads, splendid ones noticed, 
 
 54, 68, 127, 221, 395 ; beds in 
 
 cupboards, 138 and n. 
 Beechers family, 295 
 Beef, powdered, 126 and n. 
 Beggars, absence of, at Ipswich, 
 
 308 
 Belasyse, John, Lord, 226 and »., 
 
 233, 262, 317 «., 395 
 Belasyse, Thomas, Lord Faucon- 
 
 berg, 221 «., 311 «. 
 Belgium, Handbook for, cited, 
 
 12 «., 21 n. 
 Belin, Mr., 232 
 Bell and Sons, Messrs. George, 
 
 Bonn's edition of the Diary, 
 
 Preface, vi 
 Bella, Stefano della, engraver, 153 
 
 and n. 
 Bellarmin, Cardinal Robert, his 
 
 sepulchre, 67 and «. 
 Bellay, Joachim du, his Regrets 
 
 (1565), cited, 45 n. 
 Bellcar, pictures possessed by, 148 
 Belle Cour at Lyons, 49 
 Bellino,Giovanni, master of Titian, 
 
 his portrait, 207 
 Bells, notices of, 16, 17, 38, 182 
 Belluccio, Dr., of Pisa, in 
 Belsia (Beauce), county of, 43 
 Belsize House, Hampstead, notice 
 
 of, 305 and ». 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 485 
 
 Belvedere Gardens, Rome, 69, 86 
 Bel voir Castle, 180 
 Bembo, Cardinal Pietro, 104 
 Benbow, John, Admiral, 441 and 
 
 «., 444 »., 445 n. ; his gallantry 
 
 and death, 456 and n. 
 Benedict VII., Pope, 104 
 Benevento, statue by, 59 
 Benlowes, Edward, references to, 
 
 and notice of, 182 and «. 
 Bennet, Sir Henry. See Arlington, 
 
 Earl of 
 Bennet, Isabella, her marriage to 
 
 the Duke of Grafton, 287 and «. 
 Bennet, Sir John, father of above, 
 
 306 n. 
 Bennet, Mrs., sister to Lord 
 
 Arlington, 230 
 Benotti, an artist in pietra com- 
 
 messa, 59, 113 
 Bentivoglio, Cardinal Guido, his 
 
 gardens, etc., 104 and «.; Castle 
 
 Bentivoglio, 116 
 Bentley, Dr. Richard, references 
 
 to, 427 and «., 433, 436 ; Keeper 
 
 of Library at St. James's, 443 
 
 and n. ; delivers the Boyle 
 
 Lectures, 427 and «., 428, 430, 
 
 432 and «.; Dyce's Works, cited, 
 
 427 ; Jebb's Bentley, cited, 432 ». 
 Bergamo, Damiano di, inlaying 
 
 by, 115 
 Bergen - op - Zoom, notice of, 20 ; 
 
 attack on Dutch fleet at, 293 
 Berkeley, George, first Earl of, 
 
 various references to, 199 and «., 
 
 201, 203, 223, 229, 292, 305, 341 ; 
 
 ambassador to France for the 
 
 Treaty of Nimeguen, 302, 304 ; 
 
 seized with apoplexy, 302 ; sets 
 
 out for France, 303 ; his seat at 
 
 Twickenham Park, 304 and n. ; 
 
 commits his affairs to Evelyn, 
 
 302, 307 
 Berkeley of Stratton, John, Lord, 
 
 his house in London, 244 and n., 
 
 288 ; references to, 246, 408 
 Berkeley, Lord, bombards Dieppe 
 
 and Havre (1694), 435 and n. 
 Berkeley, Lady, property of, from 
 
 Berkeley Gardens, 359 
 Berkeley, Sir Charles, 215 and «., 
 
 226, 473 
 Berkeley, Sir Robert, grandson 
 
 of, 354 
 Berkeley, Mr. (son of Lord Ber- 
 keley), 188, 189 
 Berkeley Castle, East Indiaman, 
 
 sunk, 433 
 Berkeley House, described, 244 »., 
 
 288 ; gardens of, built over, 359 ; 
 
 residence of Princess Anne 
 
 (1696), 427 «., 436 
 Berkenshaw, Mr., musician, 231 
 
 and n. 
 Berkshire, Charles Howard, Earl 
 
 of, 265 
 Berkshire, or Cleveland, House, 
 
 253 and n. 
 Berni, Marquis de, 238 and n. 
 Bernini, Giovanni Lorenzo, sculp- 
 
 tor and architect, works of, 66, 
 68, 75 and «., 76, 100, 109, 112, 
 152 ; his varied talents, 75 
 
 Bertie, Mr., 244 
 
 Berwick, James Fitz-James, Duke 
 of, engaged in the conspiracy 
 (1696), 439 
 
 Betchworth Castle, 184 and n., 
 
 T 99 „ . 
 
 Beveretta, Switzerland. See Bou- 
 
 veret 
 
 Beveridge, Dr. William, anecdote 
 of, 424 
 
 Beverley, notice of the town of, 181 
 
 Beverweert, Isabella von, 7 «. 
 
 Bianchi, a singer in Rome, 109 
 
 Bible, English MS. in the Bodleian 
 Library, Oxford, 175 ; versions 
 of the, 186, 437 
 
 Biblia Polyglotta, by Bishop 
 Walton, 170 and n. 
 
 Bickers and Bush, Messrs. , publish 
 the Diary in 1879, Preface, vi 
 and n. 
 
 Bickerstaff, Sir Charles, purchases 
 Pilton, 358 
 
 Bickerton, Mrs. Jane, afterwards 
 Duchess of Norfolk, 281 and «., 
 311 and «., 313 «. 
 
 Biddulph, Sir Theophilus, 226 
 and )i. 
 
 Billiards, Portuguese manner of 
 playing, 324 
 
 Bills, Parliamentary, tacked to 
 Money Bill, contested, 450 
 
 Bills of Mortality, Observations 
 upon (1661), 299 
 
 Bindley, James, his literary assist- 
 ance, Preface, viii 
 
 Binyon, Mr. Laurence, of British 
 Museum, cited, 306 «. 
 
 Biographia Britannica, referred 
 to, 234 «., 459 »., 470, 478 
 
 Birch, Dr., sermon by, against 
 Papists, 394 
 
 Birds, Royal Collection of, in St. 
 James's Park, 236 
 
 Birrell, Mr. A., his Andrew 
 Marvell (1905), cited, 214 «., 
 269 n. 
 
 Bishop Stortford, noticed, 184 
 
 Bishops, six Bishops petition 
 James II. against his declara- 
 tion for liberty of conscience, 
 402 ; sent to the Tower, ib. ; 
 trial of, 403 ; Bishops called 
 upon to prepare a form of prayer 
 against the expected invasion 
 (1688), 406 ; charged with dis- 
 loyalty, 407 ; required to declare 
 their abhorrence of invasion of 
 Prince of Orange, 407 ; advise 
 James 1 1, to summon Parliament, 
 ib. ; meeting of (1688), 409 ; 
 deprived, 424 ; refuse to recog- 
 nise William III., 413 and »., 
 424 ; Bishops and Convocation 
 at variance (1701), 453 
 
 Black's Guide to Hampshire 
 (1904) cited, 380 ». 
 
 Blackheath, camp at (1673), 291 
 
 and n. ; (1685), 377 ; (1690), 422 ; 
 
 fair on (1683), 345 and n. ; firing 
 
 of mortars at, 396 
 Blacksmiths, ingenious works of, 
 
 177 and n. 
 Blackwall, accident to Evelyn at, 
 
 306 
 Blackwall, Dr., Boyle Lecturer, 
 
 448 
 Blackwood s Magazine, August 
 
 1888, cited, 259 n. 
 Blaeuw (or Bleaw), William Jan- 
 sen, 16 and n. 
 Blagge, Mrs. Margaret, 266 and «., 
 
 287 and «., 297 and n. ; marriage 
 
 of, 299, Introduction, xxxi, 
 
 xxxii. See Godolphin 
 Blagge, Mary, 348 «. 
 Blandford, Dr. Walter, Bishop of 
 
 Worcester, 288 and n. 
 Blathwayt, William, account of, 
 
 399 and n. 
 Blenheim, thanksgiving for the 
 
 victory of, 458 
 Bletchingley, Surrey, house of 
 
 Henry VIII. at, 186 ; sale of 
 
 the manor of, 307 
 Blois, notice of the town, etc., of, 
 
 44 ; purity of French language 
 
 at, 45 and n. 
 Blood, Colonel, account of, 276 
 
 and n. 
 Bloomsbury Square, building of, 
 
 235 ; Montague House erected 
 
 in, 322^ 388 
 Blount, Colonel, 168, 187, 189, 194, 
 
 201 
 Blount, Edward, 225 
 Blount, Sir Henry, 201 and n. 
 Blue Coat School, at Rome, 88 
 
 and n. ; London, 193 and «. 
 Bobart, Jacob, Keeper of Physic 
 
 Garden, Oxford, 233 and ». 
 Bodleian Library, Oxford, 300 ; 
 
 curiosities of the, 175 
 Boet, Dr., 157 
 Boethos of Chalcedon, 65 «. 
 Boggi, a sculptor, 76 
 Bohemia, Elizabeth Stuart, Queen 
 
 of, 12 and «. ; her funeral, 219 
 
 and n. 
 Bohemians, revolt of (1618), 3 and 
 
 n. ; contributions to distressed 
 
 (1637), 6 _ 
 Bohn's edition of the Diary, 
 
 Preface, vi 
 Bohun, Dr. Ralph, tutor to 
 
 Evelyn's son, 239 and «., 254, 
 
 274 ; living presented to him, 
 
 453 ; Dr. Bathurst's legacy to, 
 
 458 ; sermon by, 307 ; letter of 
 
 Evelyn to, Introduction, xxxiv 
 
 and n. 
 Bohun, Mr., his house and garden 
 
 at Lee in Kent, 321 and »., 341 
 
 and »., 351 
 Bois-de-Boulogne, muster of gens- 
 
 d'armes in the, 42 ; referred to, 
 
 i53 
 Bois-de-Vincennes, palace of, 32 
 and «., 152 
 
486 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Bois-le-Duc, account of, 19 and n. 
 Boldero, Dr. Edmund, sermon by, 
 
 209 and n. 
 Bologna, account of, 114 ; Torre 
 
 d' Asinelli and churches, ib. ; 
 
 Palace of the Legate, ib. ; Dr. 
 
 Montalbano, 115; St. Michel in 
 
 Bosco, ib. ; religious houses, 
 
 etc., 116; observations on, ib. ; 
 
 Bologna sausages, ib. and n. 
 Bologna, Baldassa di, painting 
 
 by, 69 
 Bologna, John di, sculptures of, 
 
 29 and n., 59 
 Bolognesi, Giovanni Francesco 
 
 Gnmaldi, called II Bolognesi, 
 
 painting by, 101 
 Bolsena, Lake of, 62 
 Bolton, Dr., sermon by, 225 
 Bombardment, a cruel species of 
 
 warfare, 435, 438 
 Bombay, 372 
 Bombs, experiments made with, 
 
 39 6 
 Bommel, town of, 13 
 
 Bonannus of Pisa, in n. 
 
 Bond, Sir Thomas, his house at 
 Peckham, 305 and «., 336 ; 
 builds Bond Street, etc., 347 ». 
 
 Bonifacio, Father, at Venice, 129 
 
 Bonnefons's French Gardener, In- 
 troduction, xxii 
 
 Bons Hommes, Convent of, near 
 Paris, 35 and «., 157 
 
 Book of Days, Chambers's, cited, 
 205 n. 
 
 Books, various particulars con- 
 cerning, 7, 28, 86 and «., 134, 
 143, 176, 183, 186, 207, 233, 329, 
 
 339, 342, 349, 39o, 394, 43°, 434, 
 
 446, 449 
 Booksellers at Geneva, 142 
 Boord, Madame de, censures the 
 
 carving of Gibbons, 275 and n. 
 Booth, Sir George, created Lord 
 
 Delamere, 210 
 Booth, Mr., 155 
 Borcht, Van der, Hendrik, a 
 
 painter of Brussels, 10 and n. 
 Bordeaux, wines of, 349 
 Boreman, Sir William, Clerk of 
 
 Green Cloth, 386 
 Borghese, Cardinal Scipio, house 
 
 and garden of, 81-2, 107, 108 
 Borghese Villa, 72-3 
 Borromean Islands, 137 and n. 
 Borromeo, St. Carlo, church at 
 
 Antwerp, 21 and n. 
 Borromeo, St. Charles, burial- 
 place, 133 and n. ; munificence 
 
 of, 134 
 Borromeo, Cardinal Frederico, 134 
 
 and n. ; munificence of, ib. 
 Boscawen, Mr., 378 
 Boscawen, Anne, his daughter, 
 
 443, 453 and n. 
 Boscawen, Mrs., 314 
 Bosio, Antonio, his Roma Sotter- 
 
 ranea (1682), 106 and n. 
 Bosse, Abraham, engraver, 152 
 
 and n. 
 
 Bossuet's Oraisons Funebres 
 (1874), cited, 385 n. 
 
 Botargos, or Bologna sausages, 116 
 and n. 
 
 Boucharvant, Abbess of, 159 
 
 Bouillon, Duke and Duchess of, 
 105 and «. 
 
 Bough ton Malherbe, 244 
 
 Boulogne, account of, 26-7 
 
 Bourbon l'Archambault, town and 
 castle of, 48 • 
 
 Bourdon, Sebastian, his portrait 
 of Mrs. Evelyn, 148 and «., 166 
 and n. 
 
 Bourges, account of, 48 
 
 Bouveret, Switzerland, 141; Intro- 
 duction, xvii 
 
 Bow Church, 427, 428, 450 
 
 Bowles, Sir John, 354 
 
 Bowyer, Sir Edward, 194, 257 ; 
 his seat at Camberwell, 194 
 
 Box Hill, Surrey, noticed, 186 
 
 Boyle, Richard, first Earl of Cork, 
 231 
 
 Boyle, Hon. Robert, references 
 to, 189 and «., 201 and «., 221, 
 232, 303, 407, 421, 477 ; experi- 
 ments by, 206, 209 and ft., 220 ; 
 elected President of the Royal 
 Society, 330 ; Evelyn's letter to, 
 on a plan for a college, 464 ; 
 on projected publications, 477 ; 
 his death, and Bishop Burnet's 
 funeral sermon, 426 ; particulars 
 of him, ib. ; trustees for his 
 charitable bequests, 427 and «., 
 430 and n. 
 
 Boyle Lecture, notices of the, 427 
 and n., 428, 430, 432, 436, 439, 
 441, 448, 458 
 
 Boyne, battle of the, 421 and n. 
 
 Brabourne, yew tree in churchyard 
 at, 227 n. 
 
 Bracciano, Duke di, his house, 83 
 
 Bradshaw, George, of Balliol Col- 
 lege, Oxford, 6 and «., Intro- 
 duction, xii and n. 
 
 Bradshaw, John, regicide, 147, 
 149 and n., 156 and ft., 169, 
 209 
 
 Bragg, Thomas, engraver, 382 n. 
 
 Bramante. See Lazzori 
 
 Bramhall, Dr. John, Archbishop 
 of Armagh, notice of, 205 and 
 »., 390 
 
 Bramston, Francis, Baron of the 
 Exchequer, 127 and «., 128, 262 
 and n. 
 
 Bramston, Sir John, Chief Justice 
 of King's Bench, 127 and n. ; 
 his Autobiography, cited, 262 
 «., 348«.,4o6 »., 423 n., Intro- 
 duction, xiv 
 
 Brandenburgh, Duke of, his presen t 
 to the Royal Society (1682), 340 ; 
 to the Queen (1693), 431 
 
 Brandon, Charles Gerard, Lord, 
 trial and pardon of, 386 and n. 
 
 Brandon, Charles, Duke of Suf- 
 folk, painting of, 313 
 
 Braseras (Brasier), 353 and n. 
 
 Bray, Sir Edward, 194 ft. 
 
 Bray, William, F.S.A., cited, 60 
 n., 63 «., 138 »., 150 «., 152 «., 
 170 n., 177 «., 179 n., 250 «., 
 262 «., 292 »., 298 «., 316 «., 
 356 «., 365 n., 371 «., 430 «., 
 438 «., 441 n., Introduction, 
 xiv n. ; History 0/ Surrey re- 
 ferred to, 253 n. , Preface, v ; 
 edited the Diary (1818), Preface, 
 viii 
 
 Brayley's History of Surrey. See 
 Surrey 
 
 Breakspear, Nicholas (Pope Ad- 
 rian IV.), tomb of, 83 
 
 Breakwater at Genoa, 53 
 
 Breames, Sir Richard, 253 
 
 Breda, ship of war, blown up 
 422 
 
 Breda, Treaty of, 296 and n. 
 
 Brederode, Herr Van, 18 
 
 Brederode, family of, 309 
 
 Brenta, fine country on its banks, 
 122 
 
 Brentford, battle of, Introduction, 
 xiv and n., 25 and n. 
 
 Brereton, Lord, 201, 257 
 
 Brereton, William, son of Lord 
 Brereton, 201 and n. 
 
 Brescia, account of, 131, 132 
 
 Brest, English fleet before (1689), 
 417 ; (1694), 435 
 
 Bret, Colonel, 336 
 
 Breton, Dr. John, sermon by, 268 
 
 Breton, Rev. Robert, Vicar of 
 Deptford, sermons by, 217 and 
 n. , 283 ; his death and Evelyn's 
 regret for him, 283 
 
 Breton language, its resemblance 
 to Welsh, 300 
 
 Brett, Sir Edward, 241 
 
 Brevall, Mons., 283 
 
 Brevint, Dr. Daniel, Dean of 
 Durham, 154 and n. 
 
 Briat, a giant, bones of, 48 
 
 Brick Close, Deptford, granted to 
 Evelyn, 262 
 
 Brideoake, Dr. Ralph, Bishop of 
 Chichester, 299 and »., 304 
 
 Bridgeman, Sir Orlando, 277 and 
 n., 289 
 
 Bridgeman, Mr., 305 
 
 Bridgeman, Mrs., 356 
 
 Bridges, particulars concerning, 
 24, 29, 36, 38 and «., 39, 43, 
 44, 45, 49, 5o, 57, 62, 96, 108, 
 118, 131, 139, 143, 144, 155, 181, 
 
 309 
 Bridges, Mr., 147 
 
 Bridgewater,Earl of, his marriage, 
 
 456 
 Bridgman, Lord Keeper, 374 
 
 Bridgman, Mr., 446 
 
 Briga, town of, 139 
 
 Brigg, Lincolnshire, 181 
 
 Bright's Dorking, cited, 126 «., 
 269 n. 
 
 Bright, Mynors, cited, 480 
 
 Brightman, Thomas, an ex- 
 pounder of the Revelation, 421 
 and ;/. 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 4*7 
 
 Bril, Paul, paintings of, 36, 85 
 
 Brill, departure of Prince of 
 Orange from the (1688), 407 
 
 Briloft, Amsterdam, curious mech- 
 anism at the, 15, 16 and n. 
 
 Brisbane, Mr., Secretary to the 
 Admiralty, 334, 354 
 
 Bristol, 174; St. Vincent's rock 
 at, ib. and n. ; diamonds and 
 hot wells, ib. and n. ; declares 
 for Prince of Orange, 408 
 
 Bristol, George Digby, 2nd Earl 
 of, 216, 221 ; his house and 
 library at Wimbledon, 219 and 
 «., 221, 311 ; at Chelsea, 317 
 and «., 351 ; house of, in Queen 
 Street, 277 ; account of, 216 «. 
 
 Bristol, Countess of, 350, 404 ; her 
 house at Chelsea, 317 and «., 
 318, 322, 351 
 
 Britannia, model for figure of, on 
 coinage, 312 «. 
 
 Britannia, Camden's, 436 and n. 
 
 Broad Hinton, Sir John Glan- 
 ville's seat, 177 
 
 Brochi, Vincentio, sculptcr, 113 
 
 Brodrick, Sir Aleyn, 298 
 
 Broghill, Richard, Lord, Plays by, 
 252 and n. See also Orrery, 
 Earl of 
 
 Bromley, Evelyn robbed near, 168 ; 
 Proclamation of James II. at, 
 366 
 
 Bromley, Mr. John, his house at 
 Horseheath, 271 
 
 Brompton Park, near Knights- 
 bridge, 434 and n. ; rare plants 
 in, ib., 454 
 
 Bronze Tables at Lyons, 49 
 
 Bronzini, Agnolo, paintings by, 
 
 58, 113 
 
 Brook, seat of Lady Camden, 
 180 
 
 Brooke, Francis Greville, Lord, 
 his house at Warwick, 179 
 
 Brooke, Lady, her garden at 
 Hackney, 173 
 
 Broome-field, Deptford, Kentish 
 loyalists meet in, 146 
 
 Brouncker, William, Viscount, 
 first President of the Royal 
 Society, 213, 223, 229, 307, 311 ; 
 account of, 213 n. ; Evelyn's 
 letter to, concerning ploughing, 
 480 
 
 Brouncker, Henry, afterwards 
 Lord, 277 and »., 329 ; his house 
 at Sheen, 313 and «., 401 
 
 Browne, Sir Adam, of Betch- 
 worth, 318 and «., 371, 456 «• 
 
 Browne, Sir Ambrose, of Betch- 
 worth, 184, 199 
 
 Browne, Edward, letters of, cited, 
 52 «., 56 «., 67 «., 95«., 115 «•» 
 117 «., 129 #., 329 n. 
 
 Browne, Sir Richard, Ambassador 
 to France, Evelyn's father-in- 
 law, account of, 28 «. ; refer- 
 ences to, 144, 145 and «., 148, 
 152, 153, »54i 161, 162, 204, 208, 
 209, 262, 294, 300 ; secret corre- 
 
 spondence with, 148 ; audience 
 with Louis XIV., 161 ; his 
 support of the Church while 
 abroad, 154, 204, 344 ; gift of 
 land to the Trinity House, 276 
 and n. ; disappointed of the 
 Wardenship of Merton College, 
 Oxford, 209 ; resigns the Clerk- 
 ship of Council, 282 ; Master of 
 the Trinity House, 290 ; his 
 death and funeral, 343 ; eulo- 
 gium on, 344 ; debts owing to 
 from the Crown, 398, Introduc- 
 tion, xxxiv 
 
 Browne, Lady, wife of above, 168 ; 
 her death and character, 170 
 
 Browne, Mary, daughter of above 
 and wife of Evelyn. See Evelyn 
 
 Browne, Sir Richard, grandfather 
 of above, 344 
 
 Browne, Sir Thomas, 280 and n. ; 
 his curiosities, 281 ; his Works 
 cited, 13 «., 56 n., 67 n., 85 «., 
 
 n 95 «., 115 «., 117 «., 129 «., 238 
 »., 329 n. 
 
 Browne, Sir William, epigram by, 
 446 n. 
 
 Browning, his Holy Cross Day, 
 cited, 83 n. ; Orr's Handbook to 
 his Works, cited, 71 «. ; Brown- 
 ing- Cyclopedia, cited, 84 n. 
 
 Brownists, sect of, at Amsterdam, 
 15 and n. 
 
 Bruce, Thomas, Lord, 122 and «., 
 188, 356 
 
 Bruce, Thomas, afterwards second 
 Earl of Ailesbury, his account 
 of illness of Charles II., 363 «., 
 364 «., 377 «. 
 
 Brudenell, Thomas, created Earl 
 of Cardigan, 210 
 
 Brueghel, the old and young, 
 paintings by, 22, 134 and n., 146, 
 
 i47 
 Bruges, Jerusalem Church at, 21 
 
 and n., 24 
 
 Brussels, account of, 22-3 
 
 Brussels, The late news from 
 Brussels umasked (1660), 203 
 and «., 479, Introduction, xxiv 
 and «. 
 
 Buat, Mons., 253 
 
 Bu centaur, the Doges' vessel, at 
 Venice, 118 
 
 Buchanan, George, portrait, 264 «. 
 
 Buckingham, George Villiers, first 
 Duke of, 4,'i87«., 191; first user 
 of a sedan-chair in England, 
 qS n. 
 
 Buckingham, George Villiers, 
 second Duke, 151, 180, 233, 263, 
 277, 282, 311, 323 ; his Rehearsal 
 performed, 282 and «., 367 n. ; 
 his glass-works, 306 and «. ; seat 
 of, at Cliveden, 321 and «. ; his 
 estate at Helmsley, 441 and n. 
 
 Buckingham, Duchess of (1686), 
 
 392. 
 Buckingham House, 173 n. ; at 
 
 Chelsea, 317 and «., 318 
 Buckingham Palace, 173 «., 236 n. 
 
 Buckinghamshire, rising in (1694), 
 434 and n. 
 
 Buckle, Sir Christopher, 19a and 
 «. 
 
 Buckley, W. E., Memoirs of 
 Thomas, Earl of Ailesbury, 
 cited, 363 n., 364 n. 
 
 Buda, thanksgiving on the cap- 
 ture of (1686), 393 
 
 Buffaloes at Pisa, 56 
 
 Bulkeley, Sir Richard, chariot 
 invented by, 384 and «. 
 
 Bull, Mr., F.R.S., 213 
 
 Buon Convento noticed, 61 
 
 Buonarrotti, Michael Angelo, ar- 
 chitecture of, 63,66, 69, 70, 71, 
 104; paintings by, 35, 36, 58, 
 66, 76, 79, 85, 88, 104, 112, 113, 
 T14 and n, 400, 441 ; sculpture, 
 etc., 58 and «., 76 and n., 79 
 and «., 80, 112, 114 and n. 
 
 Buret, Jean, 43 
 
 Burghclere, Lady, Life of George 
 Villiers (1903), cited, 282 «., 
 306 n. 
 
 Burghers, Michael, engraving bj', 
 233 n. 
 
 Burghley House, Stamford, 354 
 and n. 
 
 Burials, in churches, censured, 344 
 and n. ; tax on, 438 
 
 Burleigh, Robert Cecil, Lord, pic- 
 ture of, in mosaic, 25 
 
 Burley-on-the-Hill, Rutland, 180 
 and n. ; fire at, 458 
 
 Burlington, Earl of, 407 ; his 
 house at Chiswick, 131 n., 342 
 and n. 
 
 Burnet, Dr. Gilbert, Bishop of 
 Salisbury, 414 ; Evelyn contri- 
 butes to his History of the 
 Reformation, 334 and n. ; his 
 preaching, 297; sermons by, 341, 
 412, 414, 419. 443, 450; funeral 
 sermon for Mr. Boyle, 426 ; Pas- 
 toral Letter burned, 430 ; por- 
 trait, 416 and n. ; various refer- 
 ences to, 86 «., 135 n., 137 «., 
 297 »., 319, 326, 329 «., 353 n., 
 377 n. ; his History of His Ozvn- 
 Times, cited, 151 «., 245 n., 
 261 «., 289 «., 291 n., 292 n., 
 348 «., 359 n., 363 «., 389 «., 
 391 «., 407 n., 409 «., 414 »., 
 416 n., 453 n. 
 
 Burrow Green, Cambridgeshire, 
 Mr. Slingsby's house at, 271 
 and 11. 
 
 Burton, Mr., Sheriff of Surrey, 
 
 354 
 Burton, Mr., of Honson Grange, 
 
 366 
 
 Bury St. Edmunds, Suffolk, abbey 
 and town of, 307 
 
 Busby, Dr. Richard, theatrical 
 performance of, 462 n. 
 
 Bushel, Thomas, 232 and n. 
 
 Bushell's Wells at Enstone, Ox- 
 fordshire, 232 
 
 Butler, Mrs., 297 n. 
 
 Butler, Richard, Lord, 153 and n. 
 
488 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Butler's Hudibras, cited, 150 «. 
 
 Butler's Genuine Remains (1759), 
 cited, 177 n. 
 
 Butterflies, M. Morine's collec- 
 tion, 42 
 
 Byfleet, Surrey, 313 ; paper mills 
 at, //'. and n. 
 
 Byron, Sir John, first Lord, 163 ; 
 family seat at Newstead Abbey, 
 180 and n. 
 
 Byron, Lord, 180 n. 
 
 Cabal Ministry, 258 and «. 
 
 Cabinets, remarkable, 58, 112, 115 
 and «., 127, 149, 207, 323, 342, 
 353 ; of inlaid leather, 159 ; 
 Indian, 221 
 
 Cade, Dr., a Commissioner of 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 
 Cadenham, house of Mr. Hunger- 
 ford at, 174, 177 
 
 Cadiz, bombardment of (1695), 438 
 
 Caen, town and abbey of, 39 
 and n. 
 
 Caernarvon, Charles Dormer, Earl 
 of, 141 and n. 
 
 Csesar, Augustus Octavius, Em- 
 peror of Rome. See Augustus 
 
 Caesar, C. Julius, Emperor of 
 Rome, obelisk erected to, 74 
 
 Cagliari, Paolo, called Veronese, 
 paintings by, 35, 36, 113, 120, 
 123 
 
 Caieta (Gaeta), 90 
 
 Cajetan, Cardinal, his tomb, 71 
 
 Calais, notices of, 26-7, 150 
 
 Calamy, Edmund, 373 n. 
 
 Caldwell, Mrs., married to George 
 Evelyn, 8 and n., 447 
 
 Caligula, C, Emperor of Rome, 
 bridge of, 96 
 
 Calisto, a comedy performed at 
 Court (1674), 297 ; account of 
 it, ib. n. 
 
 Callot, Jacques, prints by, 42 
 
 Calvary, Mount, near Paris, an- 
 chorite at, 151 
 
 Calvinism, History of (Maim- 
 burg), 341 
 
 Camberwell, Sir E. Bowyer's 
 house at, 194; Roman urn found 
 
 at, 384 
 
 Cambridge, remarks on the col- 
 leges, 182 ; gift of Dr. John 
 Moore's library, 446 
 
 Camden, William, Clarencieux 
 King of Arms, his Britannia 
 (1695), additions to Surrey, fur- 
 nished by Evelyn, 436 and n. 
 
 Camden, Lady, her seat at Brook, 
 190 
 
 Camden Miscellany (1907), cited, 
 272 n. 
 
 Camilla (Virgil), birthplace, 89 
 and «. 
 
 Camlets, manufacture of, 46 and 
 «., 167 
 
 Camomile flowers, fumes of, for 
 the headache, 148 
 
 Camp, M. del, his academy at 
 Paris, 42 »., 153 
 
 Campania, notice of, 91 
 
 Campanile at Pisa, 56 
 
 Campbell, — , brother of Duke 
 
 of Argyll, executed, 423 
 Campidoglio, Piazza del, 65 and «. 
 Campion, Edmund, his portrait, 
 
 101 and n. 
 Campo de' Fiori at Rome, 101 
 Campo Martio at Vicenza, 131 
 Campo Santo at Pisa, 56 and «. ; 
 
 at Rome, 83 
 Campo Scelerato at Rome, 70 
 
 and n. 
 Campo Vaccino at Rome, 64 
 Campus Martius at Geneva, 142 
 Can, Dr., sermon by, 358 
 Canary merchants desire a new 
 
 charter, 233 
 Cane, Grotto del, 94 
 Cannes, notice of the town of, 52 
 Cannon, of leather, 27 and n. ; 
 
 remarkable one at Ghent, 24 
 
 and n. ; at Milan, 24 n. ; at 
 
 Havre, 39 ; at Venice, 124 and 
 
 n, ; at Villa Borghese, 73 
 Canterbury Cathedral, notices of, 
 
 24 and n., 235 
 Capel, Algernon, son of first Earl 
 
 of Essex, 325 and n. 
 Capel, Arthur, Lord, 187 ; trial 
 
 and death (1649), J 47 an< ^ **•> 
 
 148 and »., 204, 325 and n. 
 Capel, Arthur, created Earl of 
 
 Essex (1661), 210 
 Capel, Sir Henry, afterwards 
 
 Lord Capel of Tewkesbury, 255 
 
 and n., 378, 427 and n., 432 ; 
 
 his house at Kew, 314 and n. , 
 
 354. 401 
 Capellus, Mons., 416 
 
 Capitol at Rome described, 65 
 
 Capo di Bove, Rome, 100 
 
 Capra, Count Martio, 131 and n. 
 
 Caprarola, palace of, near Rome, 
 
 no 
 Capri, 91 and n. 
 Capua, notice of, 91 
 Capuchins at Rome, 102 
 Caracci, Annibale, paintings of, 
 
 63 n., 66, 88, 102, no and »., 
 
 116, 207, 214 
 Caracci, Augustine, gallery 
 
 painted by, 63 
 Caracci, Ludovico, fresco-painting 
 
 by, 63 «., 115 and n. 
 Caravaggio, Polydore Caldara, 68, 
 
 103 
 Carbines, manufactory of, at 
 
 Brescia, 132 
 Cardi, Ludovico, called Cigali, 
 
 35. 
 Cardigan, Thomas Brudenell, 
 
 Earl of, his creation (1661), 210 
 
 Cardinal's hat given at the Vatican, 
 
 73 
 Carduus Bcnedictus, used as a 
 
 posset-drink, 339 and «. 
 Carew, family and seat at Bed- 
 
 dington, 4 n., 199, 451 and n. 
 Carew, John, regicide, executed, 
 
 206 
 
 Carew, Mr., a performer on the 
 harp, 149, 231 
 
 Carew, Sir Nicholas, 451 «. 
 
 Caribbee Islands, 285 
 
 Carisbrooke Castle, 192 
 
 Carlingford, Theobald Taaflfe, 
 Earl of, new fuel projected by, 
 257 and «. 
 
 Carlisle, Charles Howard, Earl 
 of, his creation (1661), 210 and 
 ». ; complained of as Ambas- 
 sador, 226 n. 
 
 Carlisle, Countess of, 399 
 
 Carlyle, Thomas, his Cromwell's 
 Letters, etc., cited, 160 «. 
 
 Carmarthen, Thomas Osborne, 
 Marquis of (1690), 418 and »., 
 
 453 
 Carnivals at Naples, 93 ; at Rome, 
 
 105 ; at Venice, 128 
 Caro, Annibal, no n. 
 Caroline Poets (1905), Saints- 
 
 bury's, 261 «. 
 Carolus Quintus, a captured 
 
 vessel, 239 
 Carr, — , pilloried for a libel, 261 
 Carr, Lady Ann, Mrs. Evelyn's 
 
 letter to, 285 n. 
 Carr, Sir Robert, 230 and n. 
 Carrara, marble quarries at, 56 
 Carshalton, Surrey, 199 
 Carteret, Sir George, Treasurer of 
 
 the Navy, Vice - Chamberlain 
 
 and Governor of Jersey, 205, 
 
 229, 277, 393 ; account of, 150 
 
 and n. ; his daughters' weddings, 
 
 224, 227 
 Carthusian church and monastery, 
 
 Naples, 92 and n. ; at Sheen, 
 
 3i3 . , 
 
 Cartwnght, Colonel, 278 
 
 Cartwright, Dr., Archdeacon of 
 St. Albans, his library, 403 
 
 Cartwright, Dr. Thomas, Dean of 
 Ripon, sermon by, 392 and 11. 
 
 Cartwright, William, his Royal 
 Slave, 462 n. 
 
 Cary, Mrs., 186, 193 
 
 Cary, Patrick, at Rome, 63 
 
 Caryll, Mr., 10 
 
 Casaubon, Meric, Introduction, 
 xxii n. 
 
 Cascade of the Anio, 109 
 
 Cassiobury (or Cashiobury), Hert- 
 fordshire, seat of the Earl of 
 Essex, 324 and «., 325 
 
 Castelfranco, Giorgione da, 118 
 
 Castel-Mellor, Count de, his char- 
 acter, etc., 311, 376 
 
 Castello Nuovo, II, at Naples, 91 
 and n. 
 
 Castilion, Dr., Prebendary of 
 Canterbury, sermon by, 305 
 
 Castle, Mrs., her marriage, 354 
 
 Castle Street, St. Martin's Lane, 
 
 357 «• 
 
 Castlehaven, the second Earl, his 
 
 arraignment and execution, 4 
 
 and n. 
 Castlehaven, Lord, 343, 346 
 Castlemaine, Barbara Villiers, 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 489 
 
 Countess of, 261 and «., 262 
 and n. 
 
 Castlemaine, Lord, 375 n. \ ar- 
 rested, 416 n. 
 
 Castles, notices of, 12, 17, 27, 32, 
 
 34. 39» 44, 45. 47, 48, 5°. 5*> 6o> 
 90, 91 and «., 99, 105, 116, 132, 
 1 35. '39, i44» 150; »n England, 
 174, 179, 181. iSVtf Fortifications 
 
 Cat, singular one at Orleans, 43 
 and n. ; another {Lemur ma- 
 caco) seen at Greenwich, 194 
 and n. 
 
 Catacombs at Rome, 100, 106 
 
 Catania, earthquake at (1693), 430 
 
 Catharine, Pepys' yacht, 341 n. 
 
 Cathedrals, notices of, in England, 
 7, 24, 25, 174, 176, 177, 178, 179, 
 380, 403 ; York, 181 ; St. Paul's, 
 249 ; abroad, 17, 19, 21, 22, 30, 
 38, 44, 48, 49, 56, 60, 92, in, 
 I2 3j *33> *44 > St. Peter's at 
 Rome, 74-6 ; St. John Lateran, 
 77-9 ; Milan, 133 
 
 Catherine of Arragon, Queen, wife 
 of Henry VIII., burial-place, 
 182 and n. 
 
 Catherine of Braganza, Queen of 
 Charles II., various references 
 to, 213 and «., 177, 224, 231, 
 255.. 2 75. 276, 304, 403, 406; 
 arrival of, 220 and «. ; her 
 person, ib. and n. ; gift to, by 
 Corporation of London, 220 ; 
 furniture of, 221 ; her toilet 
 service, 291 ; Thames proces- 
 sion in honour of, 223 ; enter- 
 tained at Sayes Court, 304 ; 
 birthdays (1668), 263 ; (1672), 
 289; (1674), 297; (1677), 311; 
 (1678), 317 ; (1684), 360 ; accused 
 of conspiring to poison her hus- 
 band, 317, 320 and n. ; grief on 
 death of Charles II., 364, 367 ; 
 removes to Somerset House, 
 371 and n. ; goes to Portugal, 
 428 and n. 
 
 Catherine of Siena, St., 60 and n., 
 104, no 
 
 Catherine Hall, Cambridge, 183 
 
 Catholics, Roman. See Papists 
 and Roman Catholics 
 
 Catiline, tragedy of, 264 and n. 
 
 Caval, altar of, 101 
 
 Cavallerizza at Florence, 59 ; at 
 Naples, 92 ; at Rueil, 35 
 
 Cave, Dr. William, sermon of, 324 
 and n. 
 
 Cavendish, T., portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Caversham, 174 
 
 Caves, notices of, 45, 46, 90, 94, 
 96, no, 179, 180 
 
 Cecil, Robert, Earl of Salisbury, 
 his portrait in mosaic, 25 
 
 Cecilia, St. , bath of, at Rome, 79, 
 99 ; silver shrine, 99 and n. 
 
 Cento Camerelle, notice of the, 97 
 
 Cercean Promontory, etc., 90 
 
 Cervantes, Life of (Mr. Fitz- 
 maurice-Kelly), cited, 120 n. 
 
 Cesari, Giuseppe. See Arpino 
 
 Cestius, C. , tomb of, at Rome, 100 
 Chaillot, convent at, 157 
 Chairs, curious ones, 73, 82 
 Chalcography, History of, by 
 Evelyn (1662), notices of, 208, 
 210, 221, 476, 479 ; Introduction, 
 
 XXV 
 
 Chamberlain, Mr., 202 
 
 Chambord, palace of the French 
 Kings at, 44 and n. 
 
 Chamois goats, account of, 140 
 
 Champaigne, Philippe de, portrait 
 of Richelieu, 30 n. 
 
 Champneys, Justinian, his im- 
 prisonment and portrait, 453 n. 
 
 Chanterell, Mr., portrait of Evelyn 
 
 by, 3 
 
 Chapel le and Bachaumont's Voy- 
 age en Pr&uence, cited, 160 n. 
 
 Chaplin, Dr., said to be the author 
 of the Whole Duty of Man, 428 
 and n. 
 
 Charcoal, a man who ate live, 355 
 
 Chardin, Sir John, references to, 
 327 and «., 354, 355, 357, 392, 
 
 „ 397. 399, 459 
 
 Charenton, Protestant Church at, 
 
 36 and «.; monument there, 152 ; 
 
 persecution at, 347 
 Charing Cross, 206, 261 
 Chariot invented by Sir R. 
 
 Bulkeley, 384 
 Charitable Uses, etc. ; Commission 
 
 of Inquiry concerning, 221, 222, 
 
 223 
 Charite, Hospitals of La, 32, 49, 
 
 i53 
 Charlemagne, crown, sceptre, etc., 
 
 of, 28 ; sword of, 59 
 
 Charles, Life and Death of King, 
 (1715), cited, 19 n. 
 
 Charles I. , portrait by Lely, 198 ; 
 his standard raised at Notting- 
 ham, 180 and 71. ; progress into 
 Scotland (1633), 5 ; visits to 
 Oxford (1636), 6 n., 461 ; pro- 
 cession (1640), to the Short 
 Parliament, 8 ; on return from 
 the North, 9 ; on proclamation 
 of peace (1642), 25 ; Court 
 festivities at time of Strafford's 
 trial, 9 n. ; execution of, 147 ; 
 paintings, etc., dispersed, 148 ; 
 restored, 204 ; statues thrown 
 down, 149 ; daily forms of 
 
 Erayer ordered by, 162 ; his 
 urial-place, 174 ; his murderers 
 executed, 206-7 > f ast on n ^ s 
 martyrdom ordered (1661), 209 ; 
 
 Erayers used on anniversary of 
 is death curtailed (1689), 411 ; 
 Prayer Book used by him on 
 the scaffold, 209 n. ; salutary 
 effect of his blood in curing 
 blindness, 379 ; sermon on anni- 
 versary of his death (1688), 400 ; 
 Dr. Sharp's sermon on 13th Jan. 
 1689 disliked, 411 ; Stephen's 
 sermon on the anniversary in 
 1700, 449 ; Fast kept on 30th 
 Jan. in 1704, 457 
 
 Charles II., his escape after battle 
 of Worcester, 151 n., 162 ; letter 
 in defence of, 203 ; declaration 
 to Parliament and their Address 
 to it, ib. ; return to London, ib.; 
 entertained at Guildhall, 204 ; 
 touches for the evil, 205 ; speech 
 to Parliament, ib. ; Peers created 
 by, 210; coronation, 211-12 ; 
 presented by Evelyn with a 
 panegyric, 212 ; opens Parlia- 
 ment, and declares intention to 
 marry, 213 ; Mrs. Evelyn pre- 
 sents a miniature to, ib. ; sailing 
 match with Duke of York, 215 ; 
 commands Evelyn to write an 
 account of encounter between 
 French and Spanish Ambas- 
 sadors, ib. ; his knowledge of 
 shipping, 217 ; in danger at sea, 
 189 ; attends masque at Lincoln's 
 Inn, 218 ; gambling at Court of, 
 ib. ; head of, drawn for new 
 coinage, ib. ; plan of rebuilding 
 Greenwich Palace, 219 ; mar- 
 riage, 220 n. ; grand pageant on 
 Thames, 223 ; receives Council 
 of Royal Society, ib. ; visit with 
 Evelyn to M. Lefevre, 223 ; re- 
 ceives Russian Ambassador, 
 225, 226 ; visits Sayes Court, 
 227 ; commends Evelyn's writ- 
 ings, and explains his plans of 
 building Whitehall, 233, and 
 King Street, 436 ; prorogues 
 Parliament (1665), 2 36 5 visits 
 the fleet (1665), 239 ; (1666), 
 245 ; (1672), 287 ; gracious re- 
 ception of Evelyn after the 
 Plague, 242 ; orders thanks- 
 giving on fight with the Dutch 
 (1666), 244 ; energy during the 
 Great Fire of London, 249 ; his 
 Proclamation regarding re- 
 fugees from the Fire, 250 n. ; 
 examines Evelyn's plan for 
 rebuilding London, 251 ; cele- 
 bration of St. George's Day 
 (1667), 255 ; assumes the Persian 
 habit, 251 and n. ; dines in 
 ancient state, 255, 258 ; gaming N^ 
 at Court, gaiety of ladies, etc., 
 252, 261 ; grants a lease to 
 Evelyn, other attentions, 262, 
 282 and n. ; attends a sitting of 
 House of Lords, 269 ; project \ 
 for a divorce, ib. ; desires 
 Evelyn to write a History of 
 the Dutch War, 270, 273, 275, 
 and to write on the Duty of the 
 Flag and Fishery, 295 ; com- 
 mends Evelyn for it, but recalls 
 the work, 296 ; at Newmarket, 
 273, 280 and n. ; examines 
 carvings by Grinling Gibbons, 
 275 ; nominates Evelyn on 
 Council for Foreign Planta- 
 tions, ib. ; converses with Nell \ 
 Gwyn in Pall Mall, 276 ; 
 subsidy to him, ib. ; at Euston \ 
 with Mile, de Keroualle, 280; 
 
49o 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 / attachment to Frances Teresa 
 Stewart, 295 n. ; closes the Ex- 
 chequer and seizes the Gold- 
 smiths' funds, 284 and n. ; De- 
 claration of Indulgence, ib. and 
 n. ; Court at Windsor, 313 ; the 
 / Queen accused of conspiring to 
 poison him, 317, 320 ; his danger- 
 ous illness (1679), 321 ; Library 
 at Whitehall, 328, 335 ; alarm 
 at the Rye House Plot, 350 ; 
 profligacy of his Court, 362, 
 366 ; reduces privileges of Cor- 
 poration of London, 347, 353 ; 
 saved from assassination by a 
 fire at Newmarket (1683), 352 
 and n. ; designs a Palace at 
 
 / Winchester, ib., 380; visit to 
 
 / Duchess of Portsmouth, 353 ; 
 
 receives the Sacrament on 
 
 Easter Day (1684), 358 ; declara- 
 
 / tions denying marriage with Mrs. 
 Barlow, 377 and n. ; sickness 
 and death, 363-6, 435 ; Sacra- 
 ment administered by Father 
 Huddlestone, 364 and n. ; con- 
 duct in his last hours, ib., 365, 
 379 ; character, Introduction, 
 xxiv, 364-6* 382 ; his obscure 
 burial at night, 366 and ». ; 
 
 ' proved to be a Roman Catholic, 
 381, 382 ; anniversary of his 
 Restoration neglected (1686), 
 391 ; (1692), 428 
 
 Charles II. (1901), Airy, cited, 
 346 «., 352 n., 353 11., Introduc- 
 tion, xxviii 
 
 Charles III. of Spain in England 
 (1704), 457 and «. 
 
 Charles V., statue of, 23 and n. ; 
 his horse-armour, 1x2; corona- 
 tion monument, 281 
 
 Charles the Second, a man-of-war, 
 185 and n. , 239, 261, 262, 284 «., 
 287, 326 n. 
 
 Charleton, Dr. Walter, lecture on 
 the heart, 345 ; noticed, ib. n. 
 
 Charleton, Mr., 304 
 
 Charlton, Mr., his collection, 394 
 and n., 420, 426 
 
 Charlton, Kent, church and Sir 
 H. Newton's house at, 167, 171, 
 
 231 , 
 
 Cnarnock, Robert, executed, 440 n. 
 Charon's Cave, 94 
 Charter-House, London, 193 and n. 
 Charts of the British Coast, 343 
 Chastre, Claude de la, chapel 
 
 of, 48 
 Chatelets, the Grand and Petit, at 
 
 Paris, 32 and «., 158 
 Chatham, ships burned by the 
 
 Dutch at, 256 and n., 257 
 Chaucer, Geoffrey, referred to, 
 
 174, 258 
 Chaumont, notice of, 45 and n. 
 Chaworth, Dr., 228 
 Chaworth, Lord, 180 
 Cheapside, Great Fire of 1666, 
 
 247 ; Cross destroyed, 26 and 
 
 n. , 179 and n. 
 
 Cheke, family of, seat at Burrow- 
 green, 271 
 
 Chelmsford, noticed, 191 
 
 Chelsea, Buckingham or Beaufort 
 House at, 219 and n., 317 and 
 «., 318, 322, 351 ; Apothecaries' 
 Garden at, 378 ; Winstanley's 
 water-works there, 442 
 
 Chelsea College, prisoners-of-war 
 confined at, 235, 237 and n. ; 
 given to the Royal Society, 259, 
 265 and n. ; purchased to erect 
 the Royal Hospital, 335, 338 ; 
 design of new building, 340, 342 
 
 Chenonceaux, Castle of, 48 and n. 
 
 Chesterfield, Philip Stanhope, 
 Earl of, 153 and n., 267, 323 
 
 Chetto de San Felice at Venice, 
 
 122 
 
 Chetwin (Chetwynd), John, ser- 
 mon by, 395 and n. 
 Chevereux, 47 
 Cheyne, Mr., son of Viscount 
 
 Cheyne, 418 and »., 428, 442 
 Chi Vali, licentious custom of, at 
 
 Padua, 128 
 Chicheley, Sir Thomas, 245 and 
 
 n., 247, 271 
 Chichester, 7 
 Chiesa Nuova, at Rome, 67, 79, 
 
 81, 83, 106 
 Chiffinch, Mr. Thomas, the King's 
 
 closet-keeper, 217, 363 n. 
 Chigi, Palazzo di, Rome, 83, 99 
 Child, Sir Josiah, his great wealth 
 
 and seat, 344 and «. 
 Children, "long coats " of, 254 and 
 
 n. ; marriage of, 287 and n. 
 Children, Golden Book for the 
 
 Education of, by St. Chrysos- 
 
 tom, translated by Evelyn, 133 
 
 and n., 476, 479 
 Chilston, Kent, seat of Mr. Hales 
 
 at, 244 
 Chimes, at Amsterdam, 16 ; at 
 
 Venice, 118 
 China, curiosities from, 230, 451 
 Chiswick, Lady Fox's house at, 
 
 342 and n. 
 Chiswick, Phillimore and Whit- 
 ear's (1897), cited, 342 n. 
 Chopines of the Venetian ladies, 
 
 121 and n. 
 Christ Church, Oxford, 176 ; 
 
 London, 249 
 Christ College, Cambridge, 183 
 Christ's Hospital, at Rome, 
 
 account of, 88 ; in London, 193 
 
 and «., 396 
 Christian V., of Denmark, 393, 
 
 39.9. .416 
 Christina, Queen of Sweden, 329 
 
 and n. 
 Christmas Day, in Rome, 83 ; 
 
 observance of, prohibited in 
 
 England, 170, 172, 185, 188; 
 
 Evelyn's observance of, 192, 195, 
 
 200, 234, 264, 443 ; riotous, at 
 
 Inner Temple, ib. 
 Christmas Eve, ceremonies on, in 
 
 Rome, 83 
 
 Christopher, St., statue of, 30; 
 relic of, 83 
 
 Chronicle, Sir R. Baker's, 466 
 
 Chronicle, Heath's, 470 
 
 Chronicus Canon, Sir John Mar- 
 sham (1672), 202 n. 
 
 Chrysostom, St., Comment on 
 Gospel of St. John, 61 ; his 
 Golden Book on Education 
 translated by Evelyn, Intro- 
 duction, xxii, 199 and «., 476, 
 479 ; tomb of, 83 
 
 Chudleigh, Baron (1672). See 
 Clifford, Sir Thomas 
 
 Church, Prof. A. H., cited, xxx n. 
 
 Church Music, dispute on, 13 ; 
 alteration, 225 
 
 Church of England, ritual in 1637, 
 7 ; Sacrament and Prayer Book 
 discussed, 148 ; service and 
 clergy of the, 166 and «., 170, 
 171 ; solemn fast for calamities 
 of, 159 ; Puritan services in 
 English churches, 156, 166 and 
 n., 191; their doctrines, 192; 
 sermon by a mechanic, 172 ; 
 feasts and fast -days not ob- 
 served, 170, 171, 172, 173, 185, 
 188 ; Liturgy allowed only at St. 
 Gregory's, 186 ; ministers pro- 
 hibited from preaching, or teach- 
 ing in schools, 188 and n., 191 ; 
 Evelyn and others arrested dur- 
 ing service at Exeter Chapel, 
 195 ; sad condition of the, 201 ; 
 private fast by the, 202 ; collec- 
 tion for persecuted ministers, 
 198 ; controversy of Papists, 
 with, 204 ; restoration of the 
 Liturgy, 205, 222 ; and Com- 
 munion Table, 220 ; missionary 
 of the, 216 ; Asian Churches 
 subscribe to, 224 ; violins first 
 used with organ in, 225 ; excel- 
 lence of the, 382 ; Solemn 
 League and Covenant abjured, 
 222 and «.; English Liturgy 
 used at French Church, Savoy, 
 269 ; weakened by the Declara- 
 tion of Indulgence (1672), 284 ; 
 danger of, from Papists, 320, 
 382, 397 ; Convocation to re- 
 form the Liturgy, 417, 418 ; re- 
 fusal to read Declaration of 
 Liberty of Conscience, 402 ; 
 collection for relief of French 
 Protestants, 389, 390, 401, 418 ; 
 High and Low Church parties, 
 459 i James II. promises to 
 support the, 373 
 
 Churches, measures of, in Italy, 
 116; objections to burials in, 
 
 344 «•> 414 
 Churchill, Anne, marriage of, 405 
 
 Churchill, Arabella, 388 _ 
 
 Churchill, Francis Almeric, Baron, 
 232 n. 
 
 Churchill, General, made Lieu- 
 tenant of the Tower, 459 
 
 Churchill, Mr., his collection of 
 curiosities, 439 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 491 
 
 Churchill, Sir Winston, 427 
 Churchyards in Norwich, 282 
 Cibo, Christophero, statue by, 133 
 
 and n. 
 Cicero's Palace, etc., 64, 96 ; tomb, 
 
 etc., f 90-91; villa, etc., 96 
 Cifaccio, a famous singer, 395, 
 
 Cigali (Ludovico Cardi), painting 
 
 ky> 35. . 
 
 Circumcision, Jewish ceremony of, 
 
 at Rome, 84 and «. 
 Circus Caracalla, 100 
 Circus Flaminius, 101 
 Circus Maximus, Rome, 66, 79 
 Cisij, Sign or Pietro, 263 and n. 
 Citolin, M., Evelyn's tutor, 4 
 Clancarty, Earl, 405 
 Clancarty, Elizabeth Fitzgerald, 
 
 Countess of, 422 and n. 
 Clandon Park, West Clandon, 
 
 273 ^ . ^ 
 
 Clanricarde, Uhck de Burgh, 
 
 Earl of, house at Summer-hill, 
 
 169 and n. 
 Clapham, houses at, 429 and »., 
 
 45 1 , 456 
 Clara Isabella Eugenia, Arch- 
 duchess, 22 and n. 
 Clare, John Holies, Earl of, 180 
 Clare, Dr., 162 «.; sermon by, 
 
 163 
 Clare Hall, Cambridge, 183 
 Clarendon, Edward Hyde, Earl 
 of. Lord Chancellor, dinners 
 with and references to, 208, 209, 
 210 and «., 212, 217, 220, 221, 
 222, 223, 228, 229, 231, 232, 233, 
 235. 237, 244, 245, 246, 253, 254, 
 255, 258 ; attempts to remove 
 him from the office of Chancellor 
 (1656-7), 210 «.; elevated to the 
 Peerage, ib. ; visits Evelyn in 
 state, 222 ; portraits worth col- 
 lecting proposed to him by 
 Evelyn, 264 and «.; collection 
 formed by, ib. ; impeached by 
 Parliament and Seals taken 
 from him, 258 and «., 260 ; party 
 in Parliament, etc., against him, 
 258; his flight, 261 and«.; in- 
 jurious charges against him, ib., 
 351 ; his History of the Re- 
 bellion, 145 «., 146 «., 198 «., 
 458 and n. ; his Life cited, 
 246 «. , 309 n. See also Hyde, 
 Sir Edward, and Clarendon 
 House 
 Clarendon, Henry Hyde (Lord 
 Cornbury), second Earl, refer- 
 ences to, 222 and «., 232, 244, 
 255, 264, 265, 291, 323, 342, 346, 
 
 347. 349. 355i 360. 37°> 373, 399, 
 409, 416, 458 ; Evelyn's letters 
 to him about The Mystery of 
 Jesuitism, 234 n. ; and Claren- 
 don House, 352 n. ; made Lord 
 Privy Seal, 367, 373 ; dismissed, 
 395 ; Lord - Lieutenant of Ire- 
 land, 378, 381, 383 and »., 384, 
 386 ; his recall, 395 ; refuses to 
 
 sit at a Council with Papists 
 (1688), 407 ; opposes William's 
 assumption of the Crown, 412 ; 
 sent to the Tower, 421 ; bailed, 
 422 and ft.', confined again, 423, 
 424, 425 ; permitted to take 
 country air, 425 
 
 Clarendon, Countess, references 
 to, 208, 326, 359, 370, 376, 383. 
 416 ; her house at Swallowfield, 
 383 and n. 
 
 Clarendon, Edward (Lord Corn- 
 bury), third Earl, grandson of 
 the Chancellor, 384 and n.; his 
 account of Denmark (1687), 399 ; 
 goes over to the Prince of 
 Orange, 408 
 
 Clarendon House, Piccadilly, 231 
 and n., 253, 255, 347 n. ; collec- 
 tion of pictures at, 264 ; sold 
 and demolished, 347, 351, 359 ; 
 Evelyn's opinion of the house, 
 
 35 T » 352 ft. 
 Clarges, Ann. See Albemarle, 
 
 Duchess of 
 Clarges, Sir Thomas, 466, 469 
 Clarges, Sir Walter, 451 
 Clark, Mr., player on the Irish 
 
 harp, 172, 263 
 Clarke, Dr. Samuel, Boyle 
 
 Lecturer, 458 and n. 
 Clarke's Life of James the Second 
 
 (1816), cited, 210 «., 290 «., 
 
 364 n. 
 Claude, Dr., physician, 203 
 Claude, John, forced to quit 
 
 France, 384 and «.; his book 
 
 burned, ib., 390 and n. ; account 
 
 of, 384 n. 
 Claudian, 200 
 Claudius, the Censor, speech of, 
 
 on bronze tables at Lyons, 49 
 
 and n. 
 Clayton, Sir John, 305 
 Clayton, Sir Robert, 192, 293, 307 
 
 and n., 319, 322 and n., 324, 
 
 417 «., 437 ; house of, in Old 
 
 Jewry, 288 and n. j seat at 
 
 Marden, 310 and n., 451 ; 
 
 account of, 322 
 Clayton, Sir T., Warden of Mer- 
 
 ton College, 209 
 Clement III., Pope, crucifix carved 
 
 by, 27 
 Clement VIII., Hippolito Aldo- 
 
 brandini, Pope, 108 and n. 
 Clement, Dr., 5 
 
 Clement, regicide, executed, 206 
 Clench, Dr., his son's early talents, 
 
 410; murder of, ib., 426 
 Clerkenwell, Duke of Newcastle's 
 
 house in, 254 and n. 
 Cleveland, Thomas Wentworth, 
 
 Earl of (1663), 227 and «.; law- 
 suit of, 252 ; noticed, ib. n. 
 Cleveland, Duchess, 261 n., 262 
 
 »., 276, 322, 362, 364, 366 ; her 
 
 children by Charles II., 288, 306 
 
 and n. 
 Cleveland House, 253 and n., 276 
 
 and «., 323 
 
 Cleves, Duke of, his heart pre- 
 served at Bois-le-Duc, 19 
 
 CI iff dwellings in France, 45 
 
 Cliffe, near Lewes, 4 n. 
 
 CI iff house, 146 
 
 Clifford, Sir Thomas, afterwards 
 Comptroller and Treasurer of 
 the Household, 233, 253 and n., 
 274, 275, 276, 279, 286, 288, 291- 
 3 ; death of his eldest son, 276 ; 
 Exchequer closed by his advice 
 (1672), 285, 292 and n. \ inclined 
 to Popery, 285 ; created a 
 Baron, ib.; resigns his Trea- 
 surer's staff, 291 and n. ; his 
 mind affected, ib.; his life and 
 unhappy death, 293 ; anecdotes 
 of him, ib. 
 
 Clinkers (bricks), 16 and «., 253 
 
 Cliveden, Duke of Buckingham's 
 house at, 321 and n. 
 
 Clocks, curious, 49, 68, 73, 103, 
 185, 207 and n., 329, 342 ; at 
 St. Mark's, Venice, 118 
 
 Clocks and Watches, Curiosities 
 4^(1866), E. J. Wood, cited, 
 207 n. 
 
 Cloister and the Hearth, Chas. 
 Reade, cited, 12 n. 
 
 Clothworkers' Company, Lord 
 Mayor's pageant, 224 «. 
 
 Cloud effects, 25, 61, 62 and n. 
 
 Clough's Amours de Voyage, 
 cited, 69 
 
 Clove Tree, a captured Dutch 
 ship, 239 
 
 Coaches, in Rome, 74 ; in Naples, 
 98 ; races in Hyde Park (1658), 
 198 ; on the Thames, 356 ; 
 Russian Ambassador's not 
 allowed into the Court, 337 
 
 Coal, project of charring, 191 and 
 n. 
 
 Coale, Gregory, 253 and n. 
 
 Cochran-Patrick, R. W., note on 
 post - Restoration touch - pieces, 
 205 n. 
 
 Cock, Mr., lottery prize gained 
 
 hy, 435 
 Cock, The, an ordinary in Suffolk 
 
 Street, Charing Cross, 282 and 
 
 u. 
 
 Cocke, Captain, Treasurer to the 
 Commission for Sick and 
 Wounded, 234 
 
 Cocke, Mr., Evelyn's lawsuit 
 with, 277 
 
 Cockpit, play performed there, 
 
 i45, 219 
 
 "Coena Domini ' of Leonardo da 
 Vinci, 134 and n. 
 
 Cocur, Jacques, house of, at 
 Bourges, 48 and n. 
 
 Coffee introduced into England, 
 6 and ».; coffee-houses estab- 
 lished, ib. 
 
 Coilus, King of Britain, 190 
 
 Coin, plan for reducing gold, 228 ; 
 depreciated state of (1694), 
 435 ; difficulties in reforming it 
 (1695), 439 and n.; new coinage 
 
492 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 (1664), 229; (1696), 439; the 
 figure of Britannia on, 312 ». ; 
 scarcity of, 441 
 
 Coins, observations on Roman, 
 109 
 
 Coke, production of, iqt and n. 
 
 Colbert, Charles, Marquis de 
 Croissy, French Ambassador, 
 252 and n., 263, 279, 280 
 
 Colburn, Henry, first issue of 
 Evelyn's Diary by, in 1818, 
 Preface, v 
 
 Colchester, siege of, 146 and n.\ 
 204 ; account of, 190 ; manu- 
 facture of baize and says at, ib. 
 and n. ; oysters, ib. and n. 
 
 Coldbrook, at Cassiobury, Herts, 
 
 325 
 Coleman, Edward, executed 
 
 (1678), 317 and «.; allusions to, 
 
 317, 320, 332 
 Colepeper, Lord, 241, 277 
 Coligni, Gaspard de, assassination 
 
 of, a painting, 85 and n. 
 Collection of Private Devotions 
 
 (1627), Dr. Cosin, 162 and n. 
 Colleoni, Bartolommeo, statue of, 
 
 124 
 Collier, Jeremy, nonjuring clergy- 
 man, 440 and n. 
 Collins, Captain John, sea-charts 
 
 by, 343 and «. 
 Collins, Dr. Samuel, of King's 
 
 College, 183 and n. 
 Cologne, City of, addresses 
 
 Charles II., 205 ; Kings of, their 
 
 bodies, 134 
 Colombiere, caves near, 46 
 Colonna, Connestabile, 78 and «.; 
 
 wife of, 447 n. 
 Colonna Miliaria, 65 
 Colonna Rostrata, of Duillius, 65 
 Colosseum at Rome, 72 
 Columbus, Christopher, painting 
 
 of, 362 
 Colyear, David, Earl of Portmore, 
 
 3 T 3 «■ 
 Comber, Eleanor (Mrs. Stands- 
 field), Evelyn's grandmother, 
 
 2, 3, 7 
 
 Comber, Mr., 3 
 
 Comenius, J. A., his Janua 
 Linguarum, 196 
 
 Comets, notices of (1618), 3 ; (1666- 
 67). 254 ; (1680), 333 ; (1682), 342 
 
 Cominazzo, Lazarino, carbine- 
 maker, 132 and n. 
 
 Cominges, Gaston -Jean -Baptiste 
 de, French Ambassador, 227 and 
 »., 233, 238 
 
 Commissions of which Evelyn was 
 a member, q.v. ', — Charitable 
 Uses, etc.; for regulating the 
 Mint ; to examine Laws of 
 West Indian Colonies ; of Privy 
 Seal ; of Sewers ; for care of 
 Sick and Wounded Prisoners-of- 
 War ; for reforming streets, etc., 
 in London ; for restoring St. 
 Paul's Cathedral ; for regulat- 
 ing farming, etc. , of Saltpetre ; 
 
 for Trade and Foreign Planta- 
 tions ; about subsidy given by 
 Parliament to Charles II. 
 
 Committee, a play by Sir R. 
 Howard, 225 
 
 Compagno, Hieronymus, sculptor, 
 123 
 
 Complete Angler (Izaak Walton), 
 cited, 97 n. 
 
 Compton, Dr. Henry, Bishop of 
 London, 267, 305, 336, 342, 344 
 «., 346, 387, 414 ; sermon by, 
 290 ; suspended, 393 ; account 
 of, 267 n. 
 
 Compton, Sir William, 215, 473 _ 
 
 Conde, Louis, Prince of, and his 
 party referred to, 148, 151, 152 
 and n. 
 
 Coney, John, his sketch of Wotton 
 Church, 3 n. 
 
 Confederates (1689), progress of, 
 4x6 
 
 Conflans, bathing at, 159 
 
 Conopios, Nathaniel, 6 and n. 
 
 Conscience, liberty of, proclama- 
 tion for, in Scotland (1687), 395 ; 
 bishops petition against reading 
 the declaration for, 402 ; pro- 
 ceedings against them, 402, 403 
 
 Conservatori, Palace of the, at 
 Rome, 65 ; procession of the, 
 
 8 3 . 
 Consideration, Treatise on, by 
 
 Dr. Horneck, 345 and n. 
 
 Constant Warwick, the first 
 frigate built in England, 419 
 and n. 
 
 Constantine the Great, statue of, 
 65; arch, 72; realistic painting 
 of the arch, 34 ; palace, 77 ; 
 obelisk, 78 ; churches built by, 
 104, 105 \ reference to, 190 
 
 Convention (1689), proceedings of, 
 as to disposal of the Crown, 
 410, 412, 413 
 
 Convents and monasteries, notices 
 of, 13, 19, 21, 22, 24, 30, 35 n., 
 45, 59).6o, 61, 62, 69, 89, 92, 95, 
 99, too", 102, 115, 116, 120, 123, 
 
 125, 126, 128, 134, 135, 157 
 
 Convocation (1690), for reforming 
 Liturgy, etc., 417, 418 ; (1701) 
 notices a passage in a book of 
 Dr. Davenant's, 453 and n. ; 
 disputes in, ib. 
 
 Conway, Edward, Lord, 311 
 
 Cony, Mr., 303 
 
 Cook, Mr., nonjuring clergyman, 
 440 and n. 
 
 Cook, Moses, 325 and n. 
 
 Cook, regicide, executed, 206 
 
 Cook, Sir Robert, 156 
 
 Cooke, Captain Henry, an excel- 
 lent singer, etc., 184, 192 
 
 Cooke, Colonel, 151, 356 
 
 Cooke, Rev. Edward, pamphlet 
 reprinted by, 434 n. 
 
 Cooke, Sir T., discovery about 
 East India Company, 437 
 
 Cooper, Anthony Ashley, Lord, 
 creation of, 210* 
 
 Cooper, Rev. Mr., Fellow at 
 Balliol College, 7 
 
 Cooper, Samuel, portrait painter, 
 218 
 
 Cope, rare one at Rome, 85 and n. 
 
 Coque, Mons. le, 417 
 
 Coquerel, M. Athanase, fils, his 
 Forcats pour la Foi, 384 
 
 Corbeil, notice of, 38 
 
 Cordeliers, Church of the, Avig- 
 non, 50 and n. 
 
 Cork, surrenders, 422 
 
 Cork, Richard Boyle, first Earl 
 of, 231 
 
 Corker, James, trial of (1679), 320 
 and n. 
 
 Corn, cheapness of (1703), 456 
 
 Cornaro, family, 386 ; painting of, 
 198 and n. 
 
 Cornaro, Lewis, writer on Temper- 
 ance, 158 and n. 
 
 Cornbury, Lord Cornbury's house 
 at, 232 and n. See Clarendon 
 
 Cornea, Antonio de la, painter at 
 Rome, 109 
 
 Cornelius Nepos, statue of, 132 
 
 Cornwallis, Lord, 209, 329, 361 
 
 Coronada, Don Juan Vasques, 
 
 135 
 Coronation, ship lost, 426 
 
 Coronation of Charles II., 211, 
 212 
 
 Corpus Christi Day in Paris, 159 
 
 Correggio, Antonio Allegri da, 
 paintings by, 36, 58, 82, 99, 224, 
 432, 440 
 
 Corsica, Island of, 52 
 
 Cortona, Pietro Berretini da, 
 paintings, etc., by, 66, 68, 109, 
 113 and n. 
 
 Cortone, Dr., of Verona, 13^ 
 
 Coryat, Thomas, his Crudities 
 cited, 24 «., 29 «., 37 «., 52 n-, 
 119 «., 121 «., 138 n. 
 
 Cosin, Dr. John, Dean of Peter- 
 borough, afterwards Bishop of 
 Durham, notice of, 154 n. ; 
 officiates in English Chapel at 
 Paris, ib.', occasion of publish- 
 ing his Offices, 161 and n. ; 
 sermons by, 159 and n. ', alluded 
 to, 152, 162 «., 166 and «., ib. } 
 183, 227, 263, 269 »., 377 n. 
 
 Cosin, John, son of the Bishop, 
 perverted to Popery, 163, 166 
 
 Cosmo I. de Medici, Grand Duke 
 of Tuscany, 57 and n. 
 
 Cosmo II., Grand Duke of Flor- 
 ence, fine statue of, 59, 112 ; 
 wife of, 112 n. 
 
 Coster, Laurens Janszoon, of 
 Haarlem, 17 n. 
 
 Costumes of Venetians, 121-2 
 
 Cotterell, Sir Charles, 263, 337 ; 
 his son, 286 
 
 Cottington, Francis, Lord, 150 
 and n., 158 
 
 Cotton, Lady, alluded to, 2 and 
 «. ; christening of her daughter, 
 146 ; birth of a son, 166 and n. ; 
 death and funeral, 231 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 493 
 
 Cotton, Sir John, in., 38 and «. ; 
 
 library, 245, 262 ; his relict, 448 
 Cotton, Sir Robert, 245 ; MSS. 
 
 collected by, 262 
 Cottsmore, seat of Mr. Heath, 180 
 Course, in Paris, 30; at Vicenza, 
 
 131 ; in Milan, 135 
 Court of Vulcan, 95 and n. 
 Courtiers, slavery of, 347 
 Courtiers, a Party in Parliament 
 
 so called (1699), 449 
 Courtney, Father, at Rome, 63 
 Courts in Venice, 120 
 Covel, Dr. John, 439 and n. 
 Covenant, Scottish, burnt, 214 ; 
 
 ordered to be abjured, 222 and n. 
 Covenberg, F., painting by, 18 
 
 and «. 
 Coven t Garden, Church and 
 
 Piazza of, copied from Leghorn, 
 
 57 
 Coventry, city of, notice of, 179 ; 
 
 address to James II., 398 
 Coventry, Sir William, Secretary 
 
 to James, Duke of York, 
 
 account of, 151 and «., 201 and 
 
 «. ; allusions to, 226, 239, 242, 
 
 258, Introduction, xxix n. ', his 
 
 lodge in Enfield Chase, 304 
 
 and n. 
 Cowley, Abraham, 227 and n., 
 
 229 and n., 330, 466 n. ; his 
 
 death, funeral, and monument, 
 
 258 and n.\ Evelyn's letter to, 
 
 254 n. , 473, Introduction, xxx ; 
 
 Cowley's reply, 474 ; his Garden 
 
 quoted, Introduction, xxii «., 
 
 xxxvi n. 
 Cowper, Mr., surgeon, 454 
 Cowper, Mr. William (afterwards 
 
 Earl Cowper), made Lord 
 
 Keeper, 459 and «. 
 Cox, captain of the Charles tJte 
 
 Second, 262, 284 
 Coxhall, Rev. Mr., of South 
 
 Mailing, 3 
 Cradock, Dr. Zachary, Provost 
 
 of Eton, 321 and «., 322, 326; 
 
 sermon by, 389 
 Crafford, John, notice of, 8 
 Cranborne Lodge, Windsor Park, 
 
 393 and «., 429 
 Cranburn, Lord, 336 
 Crane, Mr. , Clerk of Green Cloth, 
 
 207 and n. , 208 
 Craven, William, Lord, 278 ; 
 
 house at Caversham, 174 ; 
 
 notice of, ib. tu 
 Creighton, Dr. Robert, sermons 
 
 by, 151 and «., 217, 227, 294, 
 
 305, 378 ; account of, 151 n. 
 Crema, 133 
 
 Cressing Temple, Essex, 200 
 Cressy, Dean, his answer to Dr. 
 
 Pierce, 228 and n. 
 Crevecoeur, Marquis de, 158 
 Crew, Dr. Nathaniel, Bishop of 
 
 Durham, 387 and «., 392, 393 
 Crew, Sir Clepesby, 146 and n. 
 Crew, Thomas, Lord, creation of, 
 
 210 
 
 Crisp, Sir Nicholas, projects of, 
 187 and iu, 210 
 
 Crocodile, from West Indies, 360 
 
 Croft, Dr. Herbert, Bishop of 
 Hereford, Naked Truth by, 
 303 and n. ; referred to, 265 
 
 Crofts, Lord, 151, 307 
 
 Crombe, Colonel, 19 
 
 Cromer, — , musician, 226 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, allusions to, 
 165 and «., 166, 173, 185, 188, 
 191, 192, 193, 214, 287, 443; 
 dines with Lord Mayor on Ash 
 Wednesday, 173 ; murders by 
 his guards, 146 ; refuses offer of 
 the Crown, 193 ; death of, 199 
 and n. \ funeral, 200 and «., 209 
 and »., Preface, viii ; his body 
 exhumed and hanged, 209 
 
 Cromwell, Letters and Speeches 
 (Carlyle), cited, 160 n. 
 
 Cromwell, Richard, 200 
 
 Cross, fragments of the, 27, 74, 76, 
 79, 85, 104, 120, 379; of St. 
 Edward discovered, 379, 380 ; 
 sign of, in Greek Church, 109 ; 
 huge one at Lucca, in 
 
 Crowder, Rev. Mr., 162 n. 
 
 Crowe, Sir Sackville, 237 
 
 Crown, of Mary, Queen of James 
 II., 373 
 
 Crowne, John, masque by, at 
 Court (1674), 297 n. 
 
 Croydon Church, monuments in, 
 451 and n. 
 
 Croydon, Dr., 159 
 
 Crudities, Thomas Coryat (1776), 
 cited, 24 n., 29 «., 37 n., 52 «., 
 
 119 n., 121 «.j 
 
 138 «. 
 
 Crusca, Academy de la, 113 and n. 
 Crymes, Thomas, old receipt 
 
 signed by, 1 n. 
 Crypt, of St. Peter's, Rome, 83 ; 
 
 at Pausilippus, 94 and n. ; at 
 
 Albury, 273 and 71. ; ancient, 97 
 Crystal, coffin of, 133 and ». 
 Cudworth, Dr. Ralph, sermon by, 
 
 318 and 71. 
 Culmer, Richard, a fanatical 
 
 divine, 24 n. 
 Culpeper, Colonel, attack on the 
 
 Earl of Devonshire, 376 
 Culpepper, Thomas and William, 
 
 imprisoned, 453 and «. 
 Cumae, city of, 97 
 Cumberland, Dr. Richard, Bishop 
 
 of Peterborough, 424 and n. 
 Cunningham's London (1850), 
 
 cited, 236 «., 258 n. 
 Cupid and Psyche, Raphael's 
 
 painting of, 82 
 Cupola, curious effects of one on 
 
 the voice, 56 
 Curiatii, tomb of, 98 
 Curiosities 0/ Literature, Dis- 
 raeli, cited, 161 71. 
 Curtius, M., his place of sacrifice, 
 
 6 4. ... 
 
 Curtius, Sir William, Resident 
 
 for Charles II. at Frankfort, 
 
 159 and 71., 231 
 
 Custom House, rebuilt after fire, 
 
 279 and n. 
 Cutler, Alderman Sir John, patron 
 
 of Deptford, 200 and «., 283, 285 
 Cuttance, Captain Roger, 
 
 knighted, 239 and n. 
 Cylinder with chimes, 16 
 Cypress tree, remarkable one, 132 
 Cyril, patriarch of Constantinople, 
 
 6 
 
 D'Adda, F., Count, Pope's 
 Nuncio, 387 and n., 399 
 
 Dagobert, King, a.d. 630, 27 
 
 Damcourt, Lord, 297 n. 
 
 Damiano, church of, at Rome, 
 64 
 
 Dampier, Captain William, 
 notices of, 445 and n. 
 
 Danby, Thomas Osborne, Earl 
 of, Lord Treasurer, 311 and n., 
 318 ; imprisonment of, 337 and 
 «•> 355 ! released, 357. See 
 Carmarthen, Marquis of 
 
 Danby, Lady, 355 
 
 Dangerfield, Thomas, whipped 
 for perjury, 375 and n. 
 
 Daphne, statue of, at Villa Bor- 
 ghese,.73 and n. 
 
 Darcy, Edward, Evelyn's sister 
 unhappily married to, 4 and n. ; 
 her death and monument, 5 and 
 71. ; his second marriage and 
 character, 5 
 
 Darcy, Lady, of Sutton, 4 
 
 Darien, a Scottish book about, 
 burned by order of Parliament, 
 449 and n. ; vote against Scot- 
 tish Settlement, ib. 
 
 Darnel, Rev. Mr., sermon by, 187 
 
 Darnford, Magna, farm so called, 
 178 
 
 Dart7nouth, a frigate, 237 
 
 Dartmouth, Lord, fair on Black- 
 heath procured by, 345 and n. ; 
 Master of Trinity House, ib. n., 
 346, 358 ; alluded to, 377 
 
 Daun, Mr., 432 
 
 Dauphin, origin of title, 49 and «.; 
 alluded to (1686), 392 
 
 Davenant, Sir William, plays, 
 etc., by, 2co «., 216 «., 218 »., 
 225 n. 
 
 Davenant, Dr. Charles, 432 and 
 n. ; Convocation displeased by 
 a book of his, 453 and n. 
 
 Davenport, Mrs., "Koxalana,'* 
 218, 252 n. 
 
 David, statues of, 58 and «., 73 
 
 D' A vinson, Dr., of Paris, 151 
 
 Davis's Balliol College, cited, 6n. 
 
 Davis, Mrs., 252 «., 297 «. 
 
 Dean Forest, planting of, sug- 
 gested by Evelyn, 225 
 
 Deane, Sir Anthony, 339 and «., 
 420 ; on mode of building men- 
 of-war, ib. ; conversation re- 
 specting frigates, fire-ships, etc., 
 419 
 
 Dearth, extraordinary, in Eng- 
 land, 4 
 
494 
 
 THE DIA RY OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Debrosse, Salomon, architect of 
 the Luxembourg, 40 «. 
 
 Decio(orDecius), Philip, s6and«. 
 
 Declaration of Liberty of Con- 
 science (1688), opposition to 
 reading it in churches, 402 
 
 Decoy in St. James's Park, 236 
 and «. ; at Thetford, 307 ; at 
 Pyrford Park, 335 ; at Dort, 19 
 
 De Crete, or De Critz, painter, 177 
 
 Dedham, Essex, notice of, 191 
 
 DeepJene, at Dorking, 186 and «. ; 
 
 2 3 r > 2 73 
 Deering, Sir Edward, and his 
 
 daughter, 325 
 Defensio, Sahnasius's, 229 
 D'Harcourt, Count, Grand Ecuyer 
 
 of France, 161 
 Delabarr, collection of paintings, 
 
 x 49 
 Delamere, Lord, joins the Prince 
 
 of Orange, 408 
 
 Delft, 12 ; Church and Senate- 
 house of, 14 
 
 Delichio, Busqueto, leaning tower 
 of Pisa built by, in and n. 
 
 Demalhoy, Mr., 295 
 
 Denbigh, Basil Fielding, Earl of 
 (1664), 232 
 
 Denham, Sir John, 173 and n., 
 188, 216 
 
 Denmark, King Christian V. of, 
 
 393, 399. 4i6 
 
 Denmark, Resident of the King 
 of, 206 ; Ambassador from, 206, 
 268 ; visits meeting at Gresham 
 College, 209 ; tyranny exercised 
 in (1687), 399 
 
 Denmark, Prince George of (1662), 
 224 ; married to Princess Anne, 
 350 ; allusions to him, 361, 362 
 
 Denmark, Princess of. See Anne 
 
 Denton, Sussex, 434 
 
 Deodati, Giovanni, Intro., xvii 
 
 Deptford, Dews's (1884), cited, 
 Pre/ace, v n., n n., 170 «., 419 
 72., 441 «., 444 «., 445 n. 
 
 Deptford, plague at, 243, 246 ; 
 fire in dockyard, 256 ; alms- 
 houses, 276-7 and n. ; repairs of 
 church completed, 312 ; re- 
 building of church, 429 and n. ; 
 congregation leave for Dis- 
 senters' meeting - house, 397 ; 
 new church, 447 ; projected 
 dock at, 187, 219 ; Court-leet, 
 354 and n. ; Peter the Great at, 
 
 445 »■ , 
 
 Derby, James Stanley, Earl of, 
 
 executed, 163 and n. 
 Derby, Countess of, 306, 327 
 Derby, William George Richard 
 
 Stanley, Lord (1689), 411 and«., 
 
 4i3 
 Derby House, notice of, 200 
 Deserted Village, Goldsmith's, 
 
 cited, 62 
 D'Espagne, Mons., 191 
 D'Este, Palace of, 108 
 D Este, Mary Beatrice, Duchess 
 
 of York, 294 and n. 
 
 D'Estrades, Marshal, obliged 
 James 1 1, to dismiss Protestants, 
 
 4i5 
 D'Estrades, Louis Godefroy, 
 
 Count, French Ambassador, 
 
 164, 166, 215 and n., 415, 
 
 470 
 Devereux, Lord, house at Ipswich, 
 
 191 
 De Veritate, by Lord Herbert of 
 
 Cherbury, 165 and n. 
 De Vic, Sir Henry, 23and«., 214, 
 
 255 
 
 Devin du Village (Rousseau's), 
 referred to, 48 n. 
 
 De Vinne, Mr. Theo. L., 22 n. 
 
 Devizes, 178 
 
 Devonshire, William Cavendish, 
 Earl of, afterwards Duke (1652), 
 167, 222, 432 ; Colonel Cul- 
 peper's assault on, 376 ; Lord 
 Steward, 412 ; subscribes to 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 ». ; 
 lodging at Whitehall burned, 
 444 n. ; loss at a horse-race, 
 446 ; account of, 167 n. 
 
 Devonshire, Christiana Caven- 
 dish, Countess of (1662), 222 
 and n. ; (1686), 388 
 
 Dews's Deptfordy cited, Preface, 
 vn., 11 «., 170 «., 419 «., 441 n., 
 444 n„ 445 n. 
 
 Diamond, man-of-war, launched, 
 166 ; Dutch privateers taken by 
 the, 237 and n. 
 
 Diamonds, Bristol, 174 and n. 
 
 Diana, baths of, etc., 97 
 
 Diary. See under Evelyn ; 
 Fiennes ; Pepys ; Thoresby ; 
 Ward, Rev. J. 
 
 Dickinson, Dr. Edmund, 459 and n. 
 
 Dictionary of National Bio- 
 graphy, cited, 295 n. 
 
 Dieppe, account of, 38 ; bom- 
 barded, 435 and n. 
 
 Digby, Earl of, portrait, 362 
 
 Digby, Sir Everard, 317 and n. 
 
 Digby, Sir Kenelm, account of, 
 igandw., 173 ; Evelyn's opinion 
 of him, etc., 162 and n. ; alluded 
 to, 163, 173, 214, 225, 270; por- 
 trait, 362 
 
 Digby, John, son of Sir Kenelm, 
 130 and n. 
 
 Digesters, Papin's, bones dis- 
 solved by, 340 and n. 
 
 Dinner, costly, 225, 226, 263, 335, 
 384, 386 
 
 Diocletian, Emperor, bath of, at 
 Rome, 69 and n. 
 
 Diodati, Dr., of Geneva, 141, 142, 
 
 143 
 
 Diskvelts, Mynheer, Dutch Am- 
 bassador, 397 
 
 Disraeli, I., Curiosities of Litera- 
 ture, cited, 161 n. 
 
 Dissenters, Act of Indulgence for, 
 39*7 and n., 416 and n. 
 
 Ditchley, Sir Henry Lee's seat at, 
 232 
 
 DiyrrtaT, Kugge*s> cited, 260 
 
 Diving-bell, trial of (1661), 214 
 
 Dobson, William, notice of, 362 
 n. ; paintings by, 312, 362 
 
 Doge of Venice, his espousal of 
 the Adriatic, 117, 124 
 
 Dogs, market of, at Amsterdam, 
 15 ; use of, in Holland, 23 ; in 
 Bologna, 116 ; spaniel lost by 
 Evelyn, 144 ; mention of, 54, 95, 
 138, 222, 238, 270, 355, 364, 446 
 
 Dolben, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 Rochester, 268, 311 and n., 322 
 and n., 337, 341, 343 ; house at 
 Bromley, 268 and n. ; Arch- 
 bishop of York, 350 and n. ; 
 death of, 389 
 
 Dolben, Mr. Justice, 320 «. 
 
 D'Olonne, Count, 160 
 
 Domenico, Guido, painting by, 116 
 
 Donatello, statue by, 59 
 
 Doncaster, notice of, 181 
 
 Donghi, Cardinal, 61 
 
 Donna, Count, Swedish Ambas- 
 sador, 261 
 
 Donnington, notice of, 174 
 
 Dool-house (Dolhuis), mad-house, 
 at Amsterdam, 14 
 
 Dorchester, Henry Pierrepoint, 
 Marquis of, 180, 255 
 
 Dorchester, Countess of, 387 
 
 Dorel, Major, 287 
 
 Dorell, Mr., 198 
 
 Doria, Don Carlo, house of, at 
 Genoa, 55 
 
 Doria, Prince, palace and gardens 
 of, at Genoa, 54 and n. 
 
 Dorislaus, Dr. Isaac, death of, 
 149 and n. 
 
 Dorking, Surrey, 186 
 
 Dorking, Bright's, cited, 126 n. , 
 269 n. 
 
 Dormitory of St. Michael, 116 
 
 Dorset, Charles Sackville, sixth 
 Earl of, 252, 292 and «., 387 ». , 
 437 ; Lord Chamberlain, 413 ; 
 subscribes to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 442 n. 
 
 Dorset, Couhtess of (1657), T 9^ 
 
 Dorsetshire, earthquake in (1696), 
 
 ^439 
 
 Dort, notice of the town of, n, 18, 
 
 19 ; Synod of, n and n. 
 Douglas, Lieut. -Gen., 418 
 Douthwaite's Grays Inn, 218 n. 
 Dove, Dr., sermons by, 322, 362 
 
 and «. 
 Dover, Henry Carey, Earl of 
 
 (1657), 193 and «. ; his daughters, 
 
 ib. 
 Dover, Lord (1687), 395, 408, 426 
 Dover, Countess of (1686), 388 
 Dover Castle, prisoners-of-war at, 
 
 235, 238 
 Dover Street, London, Evelyns 
 
 house in, 425, 447, 457 
 Dow, Gerard, painting by, 207 
 Down Hall (M. Prior), cited, 
 
 126 n. 
 Downs, naval battle off the (1666), j 
 
 244 ; Spanish treasure brought 
 
 to (1687), 398 and n. 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 495 
 
 Downes, Mr., funeral of, 151 
 
 Downing, Sir George, account of, 
 246 and n. ; Minister in Hol- 
 land, 275 
 
 D'Oyly, Sir William, 233 and «., 
 243 and «., 246, 251 
 
 Dragoons, armed with grenades, 
 
 ^35.5 
 
 Drainage works at Bois-le-Duc, 
 19 ; near Newmarket, 309 
 
 Drake, Sir Francis, painting of 
 his action in 1580, 191 ; por- 
 trait, 264 n. 
 
 Draper, William, married Evelyn's 
 daughter Susanna, 430 and «., 
 
 " 431 ; Evelyn's character of his 
 daughter, 431 ; their mutual 
 happiness, ib. ; Sayes Court 
 lent to, 434 ; Commissioner for 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 ; Trea- 
 surer for, 453, 457 ; alluded to, 
 438, 442, 449, 454 
 
 Draper, Mrs., mother of the pre- 
 ceding, her death, 453 and n. 
 
 Draper's Dictionary, Beck's, 
 cited, 190 n. 
 
 Drapers' Company, London, 321 
 
 Drebbell, Cornelius Van, chemist, 
 246 and n. 
 
 Dress, various notices concerning, 
 55, 80, 83, 98, 
 
 161, 220, 230, 
 
 14, 31, 46, 51 
 in, 115, 121 
 251, 252 
 
 Drogheda taken (1649), 151 ; sur- 
 rendered (1690), 421 
 
 Drolleries, pictures of low humour, 
 13 and n. 
 
 Dromedary, 157 
 
 Drought (1681), 335 ; (1684), 359 \ 
 (1685), 374 ; (1689), 416 „ , 
 
 Druids' Grove, Norbury Park, 
 186 and n. 
 
 Dryden, John, plays by, 226 and 
 «., 229 «., 254 and n., 262 n., 
 275 n. ; alluded to, 295 and «., 
 346 and n., 432 ; said to go to 
 Mass, 388 ; poems cited, 
 320 n. 
 
 Dryfield, Sir John Prettyman's 
 house at, 178 
 
 Dublin, surrendered, 421 ; earth- 
 quake at, 422 
 
 Dubois, John, paintings possessed 
 by, 148 ; alluded to, 156 ; his 
 election, 347 
 
 Du Bosse. See Bosse 
 
 Ducal Palace at Genoa, 54; at 
 Venice, 120 
 
 Ducie, Sir William (afterwards 
 Lord Downe), 146 and «., 201, 
 231, 264 ; account of, 146 ; his 
 paintings, 148, 173 
 
 Duck decoys near Dort, 19 
 
 DuctorDubitantium,T>x. Taylor's 
 (1660), 193 and n. 
 
 Duels, fatal (1685), 375; (1686), 
 388; (1694), 433; (i6q9>, 447; 
 increase in number (1684), 362 
 Duerte, Signor, an Antwerp mer- 
 chant, 22 
 Dugdale, Sir William, Garter 
 
 King of Arms, 189 and «., 202, 
 314, 475 ; his great age, 373 
 
 Dugdale, Stephen, a witness 
 against Lord Stafford, 331 
 and n. 
 
 Duillius, statues by, 65 
 
 Duke, Dr., 241 
 
 Duke's Playhouse, the, in Portu- 
 gal Row, 209 and n. 
 
 Dulwich College, 302 
 
 Du Menie, chemist, fraud of, 159 
 and n. 
 
 Dunbarton, George Douglas, Earl 
 Of, 391 and n. 
 
 Dunblane, Peregrine Osborne, Vis- 
 count, 297 n. , 355 «. ; his wife, 
 
 355 
 
 Duncan, Rev. Dr., 162 n. ; ser- 
 mon by, 157 
 Duncomb, Mr., 307 ; a Lord Jus- 
 tice in Ireland, 432 
 
 Duncomb, Rev. Mr., of Albury, 
 his sermons, 435, 438 
 
 Duncomb, Rev. William, Rector 
 of Ashtead, 437 and n., 443 
 
 Duncombe, Anthony, 307, 444 n.^ 
 
 Duncombe, Sir Charles, M.P., his 
 wealth, 441 and n. ; expelled for 
 falsely endorsing Exchequer 
 Bills, 444 and «. 
 
 Duncombe, Sir John, 245, 246, 
 277, 337 ; Burnet's character of 
 him, 245 «. 
 
 Duncombe, Sir Sanders, his fam- 
 ous powder, 5 ; introduced 
 sedans into England, 98 and n. 
 
 Dundas, Lord, 301 n. 
 
 Dunkirk, 24; Louis XIV. before 
 (1671), 276 
 
 Duomo, at Siena, 60, 110; at 
 Lucca, in and n. ; at Pisa, 56 
 
 Duperrier, Francois, his singing, 
 363 and n. , 360 
 
 Dupin, Mme., proprietress of 
 Chenonceaux, 48 n. 
 
 Duport, Dr. James, Greek Pro- 
 fessor, 213 and n. ; sermon 
 by, 288 
 
 Duppa, Dr. Brian, Bishop of Chi- 
 chester, 329 
 
 Du Prue, performer on the lute, 323 
 
 Durance river, 50 
 
 Durante, painting of, 101 
 
 Duras, Louis, Earl of Feversham, 
 302 and ft. 
 
 Durdans, at Epsom, 199 and *., 
 223, 292 
 
 Durel, Dr. John, Dean of Wind- 
 sor, 154 and «., 318, 346 ; trans- 
 lation of the Liturgy into 
 French, 269 and n. 
 
 Diirer, Albert, drawings by, 36, 
 42, 58; prints, 42; carvings, 
 186; paintings, 79, 82, in, 112 
 
 Durfort. See Duras 
 
 Dutch, their traffic in pictures, 
 13 ; canals in the towns of, 16 
 and n. ; avarice of the, 202 ; 
 embassy to congratulate 
 William III., 416; corrupted 
 by the French (1684), 359 
 
 Dutch Bishop, humorous story of, 
 62 
 
 Dutch boy, phenomena in the 
 eyesof(i7oi), 453 
 
 Dutch feast, 343 
 
 Dutch Fleet, first action of the 
 (1665), 237 ; defeat at Sole Bay 
 (1665), 238 ; (1672), 286 and n. ; 
 defeat, 12th Sept. (1665), 240 ; 
 battle in the Downs (1666), 244 ; 
 battle off North Foreland 
 (1666), 246 ; enterprise (1667), 
 in the destruction of ships at 
 Chatham, etc., 256 and n. ; 
 completely block the Thames, 
 id. ; encounter with, off Graves- 
 end (1667), 257 ; capture and 
 misfortunes of Vice-Admiral of, 
 240-41 ; attack on Dutch convoy 
 of Smyrna Fleet, 283 ; James II. 
 alarmed at (1688), 402 
 
 Dutch War, vigorous prosecution 
 of, on both sides (1665), 237, 
 244, 246, 256, 257 ; peace pro- 
 claimed, 258 and n. ; Evelyn's 
 occupation with the, 238, 239, 
 244, 245, 256, 257, 258; re- 
 quested by the King to write 
 the History of, 270, 294 ; the 
 Preface suppressed and the 
 work laid aside, 296 ; references 
 to the work, 238, 264, 273, 274, 
 279 ; attack on Dutch Smyrna 
 fleet before Proclamation of 
 War, 283; treatment of prisoners, 
 372 n. 
 
 Dyan, Ursula, a hairy woman, 
 194 and n. 
 
 Dyce's edition of Bentley's Works, 
 cited, 427 n. ; Shakespeare 
 Glossary, cited, 102 n. 
 
 Dyers, use of saundus (sandal- 
 wood?), 289 
 Dyve, Sir Lev/is, chequered career 
 of, 160 and n., 162 n., 163 and «. 
 
 Earle, Dr. John, Bishop of Salis- 
 bury, 145 and n. , 150, 162 «. ; ser- 
 mon by, 208 ; consecration, 
 character, and works of, 225 
 
 Earth and Vegetation, Evelyn's 
 Discourse 0/(1675), 2 99 a °d «. 
 
 Earthquakes, in England (1687), 
 398 ; at Lima (1688), 402 ; in all 
 parts (1688), 4cs ; (1692), 429 ; 
 at Althorp and other places 
 (1690), 422 ; in Jamaica (1692), 
 429 ; at Wotton, ib. ; at Catania, 
 Sicily, and Malta (1693), 430 ; 
 at Portland (1696), 439 ; at New 
 Batavia (1699), 447 ; at Portugal 
 (1699), 448 ; at Rome (1703), 456 
 
 East India, Ambassadors (1682), 
 341 and n. 
 
 East India Company, union of, 
 etc. (1657), 195 and n. ; pros- 
 perous, 343 ; probable dissolu- 
 tion, 416 ; transactions in 
 Parliament respecting, 427, 
 445 ; bribes paid out of stock, 
 437 
 
496 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 East India Company, Dutch, 
 prizes taken from, 241, 262 ; 
 their palace at Antwerp, 21 ; 
 account of the Company (1657), 
 
 192 ; yachts introduced by the, 
 
 215 
 East India Company, Scottish, 
 
 441 
 Easter in Rome, 106-7 
 Eastern languages, loss of time to 
 
 study, 186 
 Easton, near Towcester, 423 
 Eaton, Judge, 150 
 Ecclesiastical Affairs, Commission 
 
 for (1686), 392, 393, 405 
 Ecclesiastical History (Caesar 
 
 Baronius), 68 n. 
 Echo, remarkable one. 36 
 Eclipse of the sun (1652), 167 ; 
 
 (1684), 359 ; (1699), 447 
 Edgecombe, Sir Richard, 262 
 Edgehill, battle of, 25 and n. ; 
 
 Preface, viii 
 Education, Papers concerning, by 
 
 Evelyn, 479 
 Edward the Confessor, King of 
 
 England, crucifix and gold 
 
 chain found in his coffin, 379, 
 
 380 ; account and description, 
 
 475 
 Edward VI., King of England, 
 
 193 n. ; MS. exercises of, 329 
 and n. ; his schools, 396 
 
 Edward, Prince, 223 
 
 Edwards, Rev. Mr., of Denton, 
 
 434 
 Eggs fried in sugar furnace at 
 
 Bristol, 174 and n. 
 Egyptian antiquities given to 
 
 Evelyn, 127, 189 
 Eleanor, Queen, 182 
 Elector, Charles of Bavaria, Prince 
 
 Palatine of the Rhine, 152 
 Elector Palatine, Frederickj 3 n. 
 Elephant of a monstrous size, 13 
 
 and n. 
 Eliot, Mr., of the Bedchamber, 
 
 279 
 Elizabeth, Queen of England, 
 
 Dutch hospital founded by, 15 ; 
 
 her residence, Nonsuch House, 
 
 Surrey, 242 and n. ; portrait of, 
 
 148 ; head of, cut in sardonyx, 
 
 169 ; her effigies unhurt by the 
 
 fire (1666), 250 ; referred to, 191 
 Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, 12 
 
 and 72., 219 and ». 
 Elowes, Sir John, 335 
 Eltham Palace, dilapidated state 
 
 of, 188, 189 
 Eltham, Sir John Shaw's house 
 
 at, 231 and «. 
 Ely, Isle of, settlement of Family 
 
 of Love in, 399 and n. 
 Ely Place (or House), 209, 300 
 
 and n. ; chapel of, 431 
 Elysian Fields, notice of the, 97 
 Elysium Britannicum, Mr. 
 
 Evelyn's collections for that 
 
 work, 478 ; plan of the contents, 
 
 478, 479 
 
 Elzevir printing-press at Leyden, 
 17 and n. 
 
 Embalming, newly invented 
 method of, 340 and n. 
 
 Embassies and ambassadors at- 
 tend Charles II. on his restora- 
 tion, 204, 205, 206 ; James II., 
 
 367 
 Emerald, remarkable, 55 and n. 
 Emiliana, Margaret, of Verona, 
 
 126 
 Emmanuel College, Cambridge, 
 
 183 
 
 Employment, Public, and Active 
 Life pre/erred to Solitude, pub- 
 lished by Evelyn (1667), 254 and 
 «., 476, 480 ; his letter to 
 Cowley respecting, 473 
 
 Encyclopcedia Biblica, of Al- 
 stedius, 434 
 
 Enfield, History 0/ (Robinson), 
 referred to, 304 «. 
 
 Enfield Chase, Lord Coventry's 
 lodge in, 304 and ». ; rural 
 nature of, 305 
 
 England, reflections upon the 
 policy and people of, 350 ; Great 
 Seal of, thrown into Thames by 
 James II., 408 n. ; condition of 
 rural parishes, 179 
 
 England, Church of. See Church 
 
 England, A Character of (i65g), 
 by Evelyn, Introduction, xxiii, 
 479 ; cited, 148 «., 166 «., 171 «., 
 173 n. ; mentioned, 208 and n. 
 
 England, Annals of, 1876, cited, 
 188 «., 319 «., 375 n., 397 »., 
 450 n. 
 
 England, History of, Macaulay, 
 cited, 205 n. , 220 n. 
 
 England under the Stuarts 
 (1904), Mr. Trevelyan, cited, 
 317 »., 321 «., 331 n., 384 «., 
 335 n. 
 
 England, New, proceedings in 
 the Colony of (1671-72), 277, 278, 
 283 ; increase of witches in, 430 
 and n. 
 
 English, or Inglis, Mrs., beautiful 
 MS. by, 176 and n. 
 
 English Essays from a French 
 Pen (M. Jusserand's), referred 
 to, Introduction, xxiii «. 
 
 English portraits collected by 
 Lord Clarendon, 264 ; others 
 worthy of being preserved, ib. n. 
 
 English Vineyard Vindicated, 
 by John Rose, 479 
 
 Engravers, Catalogue of Wal- 
 pole's, cited, 480 «., Introduc- 
 tion, xxx 
 
 Enhydros, stone so called by 
 Pliny, 79 
 
 Enstone, Oxfordshire, Bushell's 
 Wells at, 232 
 
 Epidemic of colds, 302 
 
 Epiphany, ceremony on the, at 
 Rome, 83 
 
 Episcopacy, Cromwell's opposi- 
 tion to, 188 
 
 Epping Forest, Earl of Norwich's 
 
 house in, 268, 344 ; Sir Josiah 
 Child's seat in, 344 and n. ; Mr. 
 Houblon's house in, ib. 
 
 Erasmus, Desiderius, house of, at 
 Rotterdam, 12 and n. ; portrait 
 by Holbein, 186 
 
 Eremitano, Albert, head of, 125 
 
 Ernley, Sir John, 395 
 
 Erskine, William, Master of the 
 Charterhouse, 337 and n. 
 
 Esdras, ancient books of, 115 
 
 Espagne, Monsieur d', 191 
 
 Esquire, poll-money for an, 206 
 
 Essays, Bacon's, cited, 54 and n. 
 
 Essex, Arthur Capel, Earl of, his 
 creation (1661), 210; house at 
 Cassiobury, 324 ; Burghley 
 House, 354 and n. ; character, 
 etc., of, and of his Countess, 
 325 ; alluded to, 321, 333, 349 ; 
 not acquainted with the 
 marriage of Lady Ogle and Mr. 
 Thynne, 336 ; committed to the 
 Tower, 348 ; his death, 348 and 
 «., 357 ; his rooms at Whitehall 
 burned, 444 n. 
 
 Essex, Earl of, portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Essex, Elizabeth, Countess of, 
 
 325 • • , 
 Essex, petition brought from, 146 
 
 Essex, Wright and Bartlett's, 
 
 cited, 201 n. 
 Essex House, notice of, 289 and 
 
 «., 324 and n. 
 Essling, Mons., of Paris, his 
 
 gardens, 38 
 Essonnes, M. Essling's house, 38 
 Estcourt, Sir William, killed, 
 
 362 n. 
 Este, Palazzo d', at Tivoli, 108 
 Este, Princess Mary Beatrice d'. 
 
 See Mary, consort of James II. 
 Estrange, Roger L', 372 
 Etampes, noticed, 43 
 Etherege, Sir George, his Love in 
 
 a Tub, 230 n. 
 Etna, Mount, eruption of (1669), 
 
 268 
 Eton School, 321, 326, 428, 440 
 Euganean Hills, notice of the, 130 
 Euston Hall, Thetford, 279 and 
 
 «•• 307 5 church and parsonage 
 
 rebuilt by Lord Arlington, 307, 
 
 308, 309 ; house and gardens 
 
 described, 280, 308, 309 
 Evance, Sir Stephen, 442 
 Evans, Rev. 1 — , 307 
 Evanson, Rev. R. M., 400 
 Eve, statue of, 120 
 Evelin, William, physician, 269 
 
 and n. 
 Evelyn family, French branch of, 
 
 270 
 Evelyn, Ann, daughter of Richard 
 
 of Woodcote, marriage of, re- 
 ferred to, 269 ». 
 Evelyn, Sir Edward, cousin of 
 
 Evelyn, elected M.P., 371 and 
 
 n. ; death, 428 and n. 
 Evelyn, Eleanor, mother of 
 
 Evelyn, 1 and n. ; character, 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 497 
 
 2; her illness and death, 5, 6; 
 epitaph, 6 n. 
 
 Evelyn, Eliza, sister of Evelyn, 
 birth, 1 and «. ; see Darcy ; her 
 death and monument, 5 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, Elizabeth, second 
 daughter of Evelyn, birth, 259 
 and n. ; marriage and death, 
 378 
 
 Evelyn, Elizabeth, daughter of 
 George Evelyn, 444 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, Sir Frederick, and Lady, 
 Preface, v 
 
 Evelyn, George, grandfather of 
 Evelyn, 2 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, George, elder brother of 
 Evelyn, birth, 1 and «. ; his 
 second wife, Lady Cotton, 2 and 
 n. ; letter to his father, Richard, 
 descriptive of visit of Charles I. 
 to Oxford (1636), 6 «., 461 ; 
 marriage, 8 ; his brother John's 
 present to his daughter at her 
 christening, 146 ; improvements 
 by, in the garden at Wotton, 
 166 ; birth of his son, ib. and n. ; 
 death of his second wife, Lady 
 Cotton, 231 ; chosen Knight for 
 County of Surrey (1679), 318 ; 
 prevented from becoming a 
 candidate for Surrey (1685), 371 ; 
 Deputy - Lieutenant for the 
 County, 433 ; his death, 447 ; 
 his character, and particulars of 
 his ■ family, ib. ; his property, 
 448 ; various allusions to, 147, 
 
 171, 241, 399, 444 n. 
 
 Evelyn, Captain George, son of 
 Sir John, and cousin of Evelyn, 
 a great traveller, his skill in 
 architecture, 148 and «., 171 
 
 Evelyn, George, of Nuffield, 
 cousin of Evelyn, Deputy-Lieu- 
 tenant of Surrey, 433, 436 ; his 
 family, 435; his death, 447 
 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, George, son of George, 
 and nephew of Evelyn, 31 and 
 «., 167 ; travels, marriage, and 
 death, 447 and n. ; daughters 
 of, ib. 
 
 Evelyn, George, fourth son of 
 Evelyn, birth, 194 ; death, 197 
 
 Evelyn, Glanville, 454 «. 
 
 Evelyn. Jane, sister of John, 
 married to William Glanville, 
 birth of, 1 and n. ; death of, 
 164 ; allusions to, 10, 14s, 150, 
 156, 454 
 
 Evelyn, Jane, grand-daughter of 
 Evelyn, 426, 427 
 
 Evelyn, Sir John (sen.), monu- 
 ment at Godstone, 310 and «. 
 
 Evelyn, Sir John, of Godstone, 
 cousin of Evelyn, 149 and «., 
 
 172, 229 and «., 310, 451; his 
 house at Godstone, 199 and n. ; 
 his forty - first wedding - day, 
 202 
 
 Evelyn, Sir John, of Deane, in 
 Wiltshire, 149 ; his daughter, 
 
 Mrs. Pierrepont, ib. and ;*., 398 
 and «., 445 
 Evelyn, John, summary of. his life 
 and character — (1620) birth, 
 j, 2 ; baptism, 3 ; childhood, 
 ib. ; (1624) received his first 
 instruction under Mr. Frier, ib. ; 
 (1625) passed his childhood at 
 Lewes, with his grandfather, 
 ib. ; (1626) portrait painted by 
 Chanterell, ib. \ (1628) taught to 
 write by M. Citolin, and sent 
 to the free school at Southover, 
 4 ; (163 1) begins to record re- 
 markable circumstances, ib. ; 
 (1635) illness and death of his 
 mother, 5 ; (1637) admitted to 
 the Middle Temple, 6 ; (1637) 
 entered a Fellow-Commoner of 
 Balliol College, ib. ; presents 
 books to its library, 7 ; first 
 exercise, ib. ; accident to, in 
 the College Hall, ib. ; (1638) 
 visits his friends, ib. ; begins to 
 manage his own expenses, ib. ; 
 afflicted with ague, ib. ; (1639) 
 studies music, and visits various 
 parts of England, 8 ; confirmed 
 at St. Mary's, ib. ; (1640) resi- 
 dent at Middle Temple, ib. ; 
 (1641) portrait painted by Van 
 der Borcht, 10 ; makes a tour 
 through various parts of Hol- 
 land and Flanders, 11-24; 
 volunteers before Gennep, 12, 
 13 ; at the Court of the Queen 
 of Bohemia, 12 ; at the Fair of 
 Rotterdam, 1 3 ;visits Amsterdam, 
 14, Haarlem, 16, and Antwerp, 
 20 ; matriculates at Leyden, 17 ; 
 curious conversation with a Jew 
 at Leyden, 18 ; visits Brussels, 
 22 ; leaves Holland and arrives 
 in London, 24 ; elected one of 
 the Comptrollers of the 
 Revellers of the Middle Temple, 
 but declines, 25 ; (1642) a royal 
 volunteer at the battle of Brent- 
 ford, " 25 ; reason of his not 
 joining the Royal Army, 
 Introduction^ xiv and n. ; 
 improves the house at Wotton, 
 26 ; sends a horse, accoutred, 
 to the King at Oxford, 26; 
 embarks for^ France, 26; his 
 remarks during his travels in 
 that kingdom (1643-4), 26 "5 2 ; 
 (1644) travels in Normandy, 
 38-40 ; returns to Paris, i 40 ; 
 sends his portrait to his sister, 
 42 and n. ; journey to Orleans, 
 42 ; attacked by robbers, 43 ; 
 studies French at St. Gatien, 
 46 ; arrested by his valet, 47 ; 
 establishes two of his relations 
 at Tours, ib. ', travels in Southern 
 France, 48-52 ; sets out for 
 Italy, 52 ; embarks at Cannes, 
 ib. ; sails down the Mediter- 
 ranean, ib. ; in peril of ship- 
 wreck, 53 ; arrives at Genoa, 
 
 ib. ; account of his travels 
 (1644-6) in various parts of 
 Italy, 53 - 140 ; omissions in 
 Evelyn's MS., 60, 89 n. ; visits 
 Rome, 63-89, and Naples, 91 ; 
 his etchings of Naples, 480; 
 visits Vesuvius, 93 ; godfather 
 to a converted Turk and Jew, 
 103 ; blessed by the Pope, 107 ; 
 travelling expenses of, no, 117, 
 130, 144, 447 n. ; leaves Rome 
 for Venice, no; imprudent use 
 of a hot bath at Venice, 117 ; 
 disappointed of a voyage to the 
 Holy Land, 122 ; matriculates 
 at Padua, 126 ; accompanies the 
 Earl of Arundel to the gardens 
 of Mantua, ib. ; contributes to 
 Father Kircher's Obeliscus 
 Pampkilivs, 127 ; elected 
 Syndicus Artistarum at Padua, 
 but declines, ib. ; studies at 
 Padua, ib. ; obliged to arm 
 there in self-defence, 128 ;^ ill- 
 ness from drinking iced wine, 
 ib. ; learns the theorbo, ib. ; 
 receives a birthday present from 
 the nuns of St. Catharine at 
 Padua, ib. ; entertains the 
 British residents (1646), 128 ; 
 fired at by a noble Venetian 
 from his gondola, 129 ; studies 
 surgery at Padua, ib. ; obtains 
 a Spanish pass, ib. ; with the 
 Earl of Arundel at Padua, 130 ; 
 visits Milan, 135 ; adventure 
 with a Scottish colonel, 136 ; 
 journey over the Alps into 
 Switzerland (1646), 137-9 i de- 
 tained by Swiss at Mount 
 Simplon, 138 and n., 140; 
 catches the smallpox, 141-2 ; 
 crosses the Lake of Gen- 
 eva, 141 ; joins in the exer- 
 cises of the Campus Mar this, 
 142-3 ; sails down the Rhone 
 and arrives in France, 144 ; 
 learns High Dutch and Spanish 
 at Paris, ib. ; (1647) attends a 
 course of chemistry, ib. ; learns 
 the lute, ib. ; marries Mary, 
 daughter of Sir Richard Browne, 
 Ambassador at Paris, 145 ; re- 
 turns to England, ib. ; visits 
 King Charles I. at Hampton 
 Court, ib. ; buys the manor of 
 Hurcott,T46; his portrait painted 
 by Walker, ib. ;• gives a present 
 to his niece Mary (daughter 
 of his brother George), at her 
 christening, 147 ; (1649) "arrow 
 escape, ib. ; Liberty and Servi- 
 tude published, ib. and n. ; 
 passages therein for which he 
 was threatened," lntroduc- 
 tion, xx ; studies chemistry, 147 ; 
 corresponds with Sir Richard 
 Browne, 148 ; illness, 148, 149 ; 
 buys manor of Warley, ib. 187 ; 
 sets out for Paris, 150 ; remarks 
 upon his residence in France 
 
 2K 
 
498 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 (1649-50), 150-155 ; with King 
 Charles II. at St. Germain, 
 'SO-SiJ presented at an 
 audience with the French 
 Regency, 152 ; declines knight- 
 hood, 151, Introduction^ xii n. ; 
 (1650) perilous adventure in 
 company with Lord Ossory, 
 J 53 ; portrait drawn and en- 
 graved by Nanteiiil, 154; sails 
 for England (1650), 155 ; his 
 pass from Bradshaw, 156 and 
 n. ', in danger with the rebel 
 army, 156; returns to France, 
 ib. ; remarks during his stay 
 there (1650-52), ib. ; resolves to 
 return to England, 163 ; (1652) 
 recovers a lost portrait of his 
 wife, 164 and n. ; returns to 
 England, 165 ; motives for 
 settling in England, ib. ; (1652) 
 settles at Sayes Court, Dept- 
 ford, 184 ; improves the garden 
 at Wotton, 166 ; orders his first 
 coach, 167 ; goes to Rye to 
 meet his wife, 167 ; robbed near 
 Bromley, 168 ; birth of his first 
 son, Richard, 170 and n. ; (1653) 
 arranges the garden at Sayes 
 Court, 170 and n. ; purchases 
 ditto, 171 ; discharges all his 
 debts, ib. ; birth of his second 
 son, John, 172 ; (1654) death of 
 ditto, 172, 173 ; binds his ser- 
 vant apprentice, 173 ; journey 
 into Wiltshire, etc., 174, to 
 Oxford, 175, and to Midland 
 counties, 178 ; birth of his third 
 son, John, 185 ; attends a private 
 meeting of the Church of Eng- 
 land in London (1655), 185 ; 
 (1656), 191 ; (1657), 195 ; (1655) 
 begins housekeeping, 185 ; visits 
 Archbishop Ussher, 186 ; con- 
 versation with Oughtred, 187 ; 
 catechises his family, ib. ; visits 
 Mr. Hartlib, ib. ; severe cold, 
 188 ; attends a farewell sermon 
 on the prohibition of church 
 ministers, 188 and n. ; (1656) 
 severe cold, ib. ; procures 
 ordination for Mons. le Franc, 
 whom he had converted, 189 ; 
 publishes " his translation of 
 Lucretius (1656), 190 and n. ; 
 visits the Dutch Ambassador, 
 ib. ; journey to the north-east 
 of England* (1656), ib. ; (1657) 
 falls from his coach, 193 ; sol- 
 diers quartered on, ib. ; birth of 
 his fourth son, George, 194 ; 
 uses his interest about the living 
 of Eltham, ib. ', subscribes to 
 the stock of the English East 
 India Company, 195 ; surprised 
 with many others in Exeter 
 Chapel by the military, 195-6 ; 
 (1658) grief at the death of his 
 eldest son, Richard, 196-7 ; Dr. 
 Jeremy Taylor's letter to Evelyn 
 on the death of his son, 462 ; 
 
 publishes a translation of St. 
 Ckrysostom on Education 
 (1659), x 99 an d »■ ', summoned 
 by Commissioners for New 
 Foundations, 200 ; his French 
 Gardener (1658), ib., Introduc- 
 tion, xxiii and n. ; (1659) ms 
 intimacy with Hon. Robert 
 Boyle, 201 ; his letter to Boyle, 
 planning a college or society, 
 464 ; comes to lodge in London, 
 201 ; publishes his Apology for 
 the Royal Party (1659), ib. and 
 n. ; his Character of England 
 and reply to foreign critic, 
 Introduction, xxiii and n. ; 
 treats with Colonel Morley to 
 bring in the King, 202 2 466-9 ; 
 illness, 203 ; publishes his News 
 from Brussels Un7nasked(i66o), 
 in defence of the King, ib. ; 
 solicited to go and invite the 
 King, ib. ; procures Colonel 
 Morley's pardon, ib. ; presented 
 to the King at the Restoration, 
 204 ; invited to accept a com- 
 mission for a troop of horse, 
 but declines, 206 ; presented to 
 Anne, Duchess of York, 208 ; 
 his Character of England (1659) 
 presented to Princess Henrietta, 
 ib. and n. ; (1661) chosen a 
 member of the Philosophical 
 Society (afterwards the Royal 
 Society), ib. ; presents his Circle 
 of Mechanical Trades to the 
 Society, ib., and his Relation 
 of the Peak of Tenerijfe, 210 ; 
 Prince Rupert shows him the 
 method of mezzo tinto, 209, 210 ; 
 declines the Bath, 210, Intro- 
 duction, xvii n. ; presents his 
 Panegyric of the Coronation 
 (1661) to the King, 212 and n. ; 
 discourses with Charles II. 
 about the Royal Society, etc., 
 213, and presents his Fumi- 
 fugium (1661) to the King, 
 214 and n. ; sails down the 
 Thames with the King (on a 
 wager between the King's and 
 the Duke of York's pleasure 
 boats), 215 ; discourses with 
 the King, ib., 215, 216; com- 
 manded to draw up a relation 
 of the encounter of the Spanish 
 and French Ambassadors, 215 ; 
 reads it to the King, ib. ; the 
 narrative printed, 215, 216 «., 
 470-73 ; his translation of Gabriel 
 Naudaeus' Instructions co?i- 
 ceming Libraries, 217 ; receives 
 the thanks of the Royal Society 
 for a compliment in its Preface, 
 ib. ; James, Duke of York's 
 discourse with, ib. ; his Tyr- 
 annus, or tlie Mode (1661), ib. 
 and «. ; (1662) holds the candle 
 while King Charles's head was 
 drawn for the new coin, 218 ; 
 visited by the Duke of York, 
 
 219 ; attends the King and 
 talks with him about the Palace 
 at Greenwich, ib. ; appointed 
 a Commissioner for improving 
 streets, etc., in London, 220 ; 
 presented to the Queen, ib.', 
 attends Prince Rupert to the 
 Royal Society, 220 ; presents 
 his History of Chalcography 
 (1662) to the Royal Society, 
 221 and n. ; made a Commis- 
 sioner for Charitable Uses, 221 ; 
 visited by the Queen -Mother 
 and Lord Chancellor Hyde, 
 202 ; nominated by the King 
 to the Council of the Royal 
 Society, ib. ; sails down the 
 Thames with the King and 
 Queen, 223 ; petitions the King 
 about his own concerns, and 
 goes with him to Mons. Lefevre, 
 ib. ; presents his Sylva to the 
 Royal Society and to the King, 
 224, 229 ; at Court, 224 ; sug- 
 gests the planting of the Forest 
 of Dean with oak, 225 ; (1663) 
 his house broken open, 226 ; 
 King visits him at Sayes Court, 
 227 ; made a Commissioner of 
 the Mint, 228 ; (*£&*) discourses 
 with the King, 229 ; death of 
 \ his son Richard, 230 ; subscribes 
 1 to Sir Arthur Slingsby's Lottery, 
 231 ; goes with Lord Combury 
 into Oxfordshire, 232 ; King 
 Charles commends his Parallel 
 of Ancient and Modern Archi- 
 tecture (1664) and his Sylva, 
 233 ; appointed a Commissioner 
 for Sick and Wounded, ib. ; 
 proceedings in that office, 234, 
 235, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241, 243, 
 244, 249, 252, 257, 258, 259, 262, 
 284, 285, 286, 287, 294 ; Queen- 
 Mother's compliment to, for his 
 book on Architecture, 234 ; 
 publishes a part of the Mystery 
 of Jesuitism (1665), ib. and n. ; 
 presents copy of it to Lord 
 Cornbury, ib. ; King Charles 
 commends it, 235 ; his Kalen- 
 darium Hortense published 
 (1664), 476, 479 J visits the 
 Royal Menagerie in St. James's 
 Park, 236 ; present at proroga- 
 tion of Parliament (1665), ib. ', 
 presents a captured Dutch 
 officer to the King, 237 ; enter- 
 tained on board the fleet at the 
 Nore, 239 ; sends his family 
 from London on account of the 
 Plague, but remains there him- 
 self, 240 ; passes through the 
 infected parts of the City, ib. ', 
 a merry meeting with Pepys 
 and Sir J. Minnes, 240 «. ; 
 visited at Sayes Court by Pepys, 
 241 n. ; birth of his daughter 
 Mary, 241 ; (1666) graciously 
 received, and his services 
 acknowledged, by the King 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 499 
 
 and the Duke of York, 242 ; 
 /plan for an Infirmary for sick 
 J and wounded, 243 ; presents a 
 part of Mystery of Jesuitism to 
 the King, id. ; declines office of 
 Justice of the Peace, ib. ; com- 
 manded by the King to recom- 
 mend a Justice of the Peace 
 ^for Surrey, ib. ; elected to the 
 Council of the Royal Society, 
 but declines, ib. ; with Prince 
 Rupert at the Nore, 244, 245 ; 
 i m ade a Commissioner^ for the 
 I farming and^maklng of salt- 
 petre, 245 ; a Commissioner for 
 repair of old_St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral, 246^; witnesses the Fire of 
 London, 247-50 ; passes over 
 the ruins, 249, 251 ;^ presents 
 his plan for rebuilding Lon- 
 don to the King, ib. and n.\ 
 Persian habit assumed by the 
 King, ib. and n. ; wears it him- 
 self, 252 ; overturned in his 
 carriage, ib. ; (1667) library and 
 MSS. of the Earl of Arundel 
 given to the Royal Society by 
 his means, 253 ; publishes his 
 Public Employment preferred 
 to Solitude, 254 and n. \ corre- 
 spondence with Cowley, 473- 
 74 ; visits the Duke and 
 ^Duchess of Newcastle, 254 ; 
 conducts the Duchess to a 
 pieeting of the Royal Society, 
 255 ; with King Charles, ib. ; 
 alarmed by Dutch fleet in the 
 Thames, 256 ; commanded by 
 the King to search for peat, 
 ib. ; his receipt for making 
 "houllies" (a mixture of char- 
 coal and loam) tried, 257 ; 
 daughter Elizabeth born, 259 ; 
 obtains the Arundel Marbles 
 for Oxford University, 259 ; 
 University in Convocation pre- 
 sents its acknowledgments, ib.; 
 gives Royal Society his Tables 
 j|of Veins and Arteries, 260 and 
 \n. ; gives bricks for building a 
 Ucollege for Royal Society, 262 ; 
 ^purchases Ravensbourne Mills, 
 ib. ; lease of land granted him 
 by the King, who discourses on 
 several subjects, 262-3 > P uD " 
 lishes his Perfection of Paint- 
 ing (1668), 263 and n. \ list of 
 great men whose portraits he 
 - recommended Lord Clarendon 
 to procure, 264 n. ; (1669) pre- 
 sents his History of the Three 
 late Famous Imfostors to 
 the King, 265 j his daughter 
 Susanna born, ib. ; again visits 
 Oxford, 266 ; degree of Doctor 
 conferred on him by the Univer- 
 sity, 267 ; illness of, 268 ; his 
 affliction on account of his 
 brother Richard, ib., 269; (1670) 
 solicits the office of Latin Secre- 
 tary, ib. ; pressed to write the 
 
 history of the Dutch War, 270, 
 273 ; draws up a draft of the 
 History, ib. ; official documents 
 given to him for the History, 
 ib., 279 ; introduces Gibbons, 
 the carver, at Court, 274, 275 ; 
 Jappointed on a Council for 
 IrTrade and Foreign Plan ta- 
 ctions, 275 ; attends meetings of, 
 277, 278, 282, 283, 285, 287, 288, 
 289, 291, 294, 296, 297 ; sits as 
 one of the Commissioners about 
 the subsidy to Charles II., 276 ; 
 entertained by the Trinity Com- 
 pany on passing a fine of land 
 for their alms-house, ib. and n. ; 
 lawsuit with Mr. Cocke, 277 ; 
 visits Newmarket races, 279 
 and n. ; dines with the King 
 at Euston, 280; (1672) King 
 grants him a lease of Sayes 
 Court, 282 and n. ; visits the 
 fleet and reports to the King, 
 £285-7 > conversations with Lord 
 Sandwich, and reflections on 
 his death, 286-7 '■> reads the first 
 part of his Dutch War to Lord 
 Clifford, 288 ; serves on West 
 , Indies Committee, 289 ; chosen 
 i Secretary of the Royal Society, 
 1 ib. ; (1673) sworn a Younger 
 Brother of the Trinity House, 
 290 ; takes the Sacrament and 
 Oaths as ordered by Parlia- 
 ment, ib. ; Lord Clifford's pro- 
 phetic farewell, 293 ; charitable 
 works of, 294 ; commanded by 
 the King to write about the 
 duty of the Flag and Fishery, 
 295, 296 ; (1674) his Navigation 
 and Commerce, their Original 
 and Progress, the preface to 
 the History of the Dutch War, 
 295-6 ; commended by the King, 
 but publicly recalled, ib.', (1675) 
 his character of Sir William 
 Petty, 298 ; his Discourse of 
 Earth and Vegetation (1675), 
 299 and n. ; Lord Berkeley 
 confides his estates and pro- 
 perty to, 302 ; (1676), 307 ; the 
 Queen entertained at Sayes 
 Court, 304 ; copy of Marmora 
 Oxoniensia Arundeliana pre- 
 sented to him by the Univer- 
 sity, ib. ; serious consequences 
 tof a fall to him, 306 ; (1677) 
 ibecomes a trustee for Lord 
 Mordaunt, 307 ; (1678) his 
 friendship for Mrs. Godolphin, 
 315 ; acts as Trustee and 
 Executor for Lady Mordaunt, 
 320, 323, 325 ; treats for mar- 
 riage of his- son with daughter 
 of Sir John Stonehouse, 323 
 and »., 324 ; (1679) letter to 
 Dr. Beale about his Acetaria 
 and Elysium Britannicum, 
 477 ; (1680) last conversation 
 with Lord Ossory, 326, and 
 , grief at his death, 327 ; reflec- 
 
 tions on his 60th birthday, 330 ; 
 present at the trial of Lord 
 Strafford, 331-3 ; consulted by 
 Sir Stephen Fox about Chelsea 
 Hospital, 335 ; Earl of Essex 
 vindicates himself from an in- 
 jurious report, 336 ; attacked 
 with ague, and settles his affairs, 
 339 ; seized with a fainting fit, 
 and declines to stand the elec- 
 tion for President of Royal 
 Society, 343 ; disposes of his 
 East India adventure, ib. ; 
 (1683) his account of Sir 
 Richard Browne, 344 ; com- 
 municates to Dr. Plot a list of 
 his works, 476 ; plants the walks 
 at Sayes Court, 345 ; declines 
 a lucrative employment from 
 conscientious motives, 352 ; at- 
 tends the King on a visit to 
 the Duchess of Portsmouth, 
 353 ; takes a house in Villiers 
 Street, 354 ; visits Lord Danby 
 in the Tower, 355 ; (1684) con- 
 sulted by Dr. Tenison about 
 erecting a Public Library, 357 ; 
 his Account of the Winter 
 of 1683-4 published in Phil. 
 Trans., 358 and n. ; consulted 
 about building over Berkeley 
 Gardens, 359; his account of 
 illness and death of Charles II., 
 363-6 j (1685) assists in pro- 
 claiming James II., 365, 366; 
 his affliction on the death of 
 his daughter Mary, 367-70; 
 Mundus Muliebris (1690), re- 
 ferred to, 368 «., 369 and n. ; 
 account of Duke of Monmouth 
 and his rebellion, 374-7 ; death 
 of his daughter Elizabeth, 378 ; 
 melancholy reflections on the 
 deaths of his daughters, ib. ; 
 nominated a Commissioner of 
 Privy Seal, 378 ; appointed, 
 387 ; transactions as Commis- 
 sioner, 387, 388, ( 389, 390, 392, 
 395 > James II. 's gracious re- 
 ception of, 378 ; accompanies 
 Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth to 
 attend on James II., 378, 379, 
 380 ; papers proving Charles II. 
 to be a Roman Catholic, 381, 
 382 ; portrait painted by Kneller, 
 382 and n. ; appointed Com- 
 missioner of Sewers, 386 ; (1686) 
 takes the Test, 388 ; his law- 
 suit, ib., 391, 397, 398; Sir 
 Gilbert Gerrard proposes to 
 marry his son to Mr. Evelyn's 
 daughter Susanna, 388 ; refuses 
 the Privy Seal for printing 
 Missals, etc., 389, 390, and de- 
 clines attendance, 380 ; attends 
 James II. on his birthday, 393 ; 
 (1687) reflections on King 
 James's attempt to introduce 
 Popery, 394 ; Commissioners 
 for Privy Seal dismissed, 395 ; 
 granted ^6000 by James II. in 
 
500 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 discharge of debt due to Sir 
 R. Browne, 398, 399 ; parti- 
 culars relating to his law-suit, 
 397? 398 ; which was terminated 
 by the favour of James II., 
 
 /3g8, 399 ; appointed a Governor 
 of St. Thomas's Hospital, 399 ; 
 (1688) writes a religious treatise, 
 400 and «. ; petitions to be 
 allowed charges as a Commis- 
 sioner of Sick and Wounded, 
 400, 402 ; his letter to the Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, 406 and 
 / n. ; his account of landing of 
 f Prince of Orange and flight 
 \^ of James II., 407-409 ; (1689) 
 Archbishop Sancroft thanks him 
 for his letter, 409 ; his examina- 
 tion of the extraordinary talents 
 of Dr. Clench's son, 410 ; re- 
 marks on Queen Mary II., 412 ; 
 conversations with Archbishop 
 Sancroft and Bishop Lloyd, 414, 
 415 ; his portrait painted by 
 Kneller, 416 and n. ; prayer on 
 his birthday (1689), 417; (1690) 
 conversation with Mr. Pepys on 
 the Navy, 419 ; dines with Sir 
 G. Mackenzie, against whom he 
 had written his Essay on Public 
 Employment, 420 ; conversation 
 with Dr. Lloyd, ib. ; becomes 
 one of the bail for Lord Claren- 
 don, 422 ; declines appointment 
 as President of Royal Society, 
 423 ; encourages Dr. Hans 
 Sloane to write a History of 
 Jamaica, 424 and n. ; (1692) at 
 the funeral of Mr. Boyle, 426 ; 
 a trustee for the Boyle Lecture, 
 427 and n. ; his opinion of Dr. 
 Bentley's Boyle Lecture, 428 ; 
 Mr. Draper's marriage with his 
 daughter Susanna, 431 ; declines 
 Presidentship of Royal Society, 
 423, 432 ; (1694) his translation 
 of M. de la Quintinye's Com- 
 plete Gardener (1693), 480 ; 
 Duke of Norfolk's kindness to 
 the Evelyn family, 433 ; goes 
 with his family to live with his 
 brother at Wotton, 434 ; his 
 Essay on Medals referred to, 
 7 «., 443 and «., 476, 480 ; con- 
 versation with Marquis of Nor- 
 manby about Charles II., 436; 
 Treasurer of Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, ib. ; account of the death 
 of Queen Mary, ib. ; furnishes 
 the additions to Surrey in 
 Camden's Britannia (1695), 
 436 ; one of a Committee to 
 survey Greenwich House, etc., 
 437 ; intimacy with Dr. Tenison, 
 ib. ; interests himself about the 
 Royal ' Library at St. James's, 
 439 ; (1696) settles the Boyle 
 Lecture in jjerpetuity, 441 ; lets 
 Sayes Court to Admiral Ben- 
 bow, 441 ; first stone at Green- 
 wich Hospital laid by him and 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren, 442 ; 
 (1698) goes with the Surrey 
 Address of congratulation for 
 peace to King William III., 
 443 ; his Numismata, ib. and 
 n. ; Sayes Court let to Peter 
 the Great, 444 ; damage done 
 by him, 445 and n. \ (1699) 
 affliction for the loss of his son, 
 446 ; resides in Dover Street, 
 London, 447 ; regret for his 
 brother Richard's death, ib. \ 
 (1700) his Acetaria referred to, 
 448 and n. ; illness, 451 ; settles 
 at Wotton, ib. ; prayer on com- 
 pleting his 80th year, 452 ; con- 
 cern for the illness of his grand- 
 son, ib. ; (1701) his statement of 
 accounts relating to Greenwich 
 Hospital, ib. and «., 454; sub- 
 scribes towards rebuilding Oak- 
 wood Chapel, at Wotton, 453 ; 
 holds his courts in Surrey, 454 ; 
 (1702) his Tables of Veins and 
 Arteries ordered by the Royal 
 Society to be engraved, ib. ; 
 elected a Member of the Society 
 for the Propagation of Gospel 
 ; in Foreign Parts, 455 ; pious 
 examination of himself on com- 
 pleting his 82nd year, ib. ; (1703) 
 resigns the Treasurership of 
 Greenwich Hospital to his son- 
 in-law, Draper, 457 ; account of 
 his Treasurership, 452, 457 ", 
 reflections on his 83rd year, 
 458 ; losses through the great 
 storm of 1703, 457 ; (1704) re- 
 flections on beginning his 84th 
 year, 458 ; interview with Duke 
 of Marlborough, ib. ; (1705) 
 conversation with Dr. Dickinson 
 about the Philosopher's Elixir, 
 459 '■> 85 years of age, ib. ; his 
 sickness and death, ib. ; Christ- 
 mas hospitality to his neigh- 
 bours, 234^ 264, 294, 443 ; 
 epitaph, xi, xxxvi ; Pepys' 
 references to Evelyn, xxvii ; his 
 pious reflections at the New 
 Year and on his birthday, see 
 at the close of each year and 
 31st October ; list of his unpub- 
 lished Treatises, 478 ; his pub- 
 lished Works, 476, 479 ; etchings 
 , by, 480 and n. ; his character, 
 ' Introduction, xi, xvii-xl ; his 
 writings, xxviii-xxxii, xxxviii ; 
 his Fop ~ Dictionary cited, 
 
 333 «• 
 
 His Diary, a partial transcrip- 
 tion of it at Wotton, Preface, 
 viii and n. ; first issued in 1818, 
 v ; edited by William Bray, ib. ; 
 dedication, ib. ; MS. saved from 
 destruction by accidental exhi- 
 bition to Upcott, ib. ; reviewed 
 by Southey, vi ; later editions 
 ib. ; Forster's edition, vi, vii ; 
 "Memoirs" rather than a 
 "Diary," viii; notes in the 
 
 present and previous editions, 
 iv, viii, ix 
 See Introduction, xi-xl 
 
 Evelyn, John Standsfield (second 
 son of John), birth, 172 ; death, 
 ib. and 173 
 
 Evelyn, John (third son of John), 
 account of him, 445 n. ; birth, 
 185 ; presented to the Queen- 
 Mother, 207 ; alluded to, 221, 
 222, 252, 306 ; entered of 
 Oxford University, 254 ; ad- 
 mitted of Middle Temple, 285 ; 
 publishes a translation of 
 Rapinus' Hortorum, 289 and n. ; 
 instructed by the Bishop of 
 Chichester, 290 ; a Younger 
 Brother of the Trinity House, 
 291 ; goes with Lord Berkeley 
 into France, 302, 303 and «. ; 
 return, 304 ; gift of a prayer- 
 book to, 311 ; marriage, 323, 
 324 ; sent into Devon by Lords 
 of the Treasury, 399 ; Commis- 
 sioner of Irish Revenue, 427, 
 429 and «.; returns from Ireland, 
 441 ; in ill-health, 443 ; death 
 and burial, 446 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, John (grandson of John), 
 account of, 339 n. ; birth, ib. ; 
 at Eton, 429 ; entered of Oxford, 
 445 ; attacked with small-pox, 
 452 ; Commissioner of Prizes, 
 453 ; treaty for marriage, ib., 
 453 and n. j quits College, 454 ; 
 Treasurer of Stamp Duties, 457 
 
 Evelyn, John (son of George and 
 nephew of John), marriage, 324 
 and n., 333 ; funeral, 424 
 
 Evelyn, John, of Nutfield, M.P., 
 his death, 455 and n. 
 
 Evelyn, John (1817), Preface, v 
 
 Evelyn, Sir Joseph, 148 
 
 Evelyn, Martha (daughter-in-law 
 of John), account of her, 324 ; 
 thrown out of her coach, 400 
 
 Evelyn, Martha Maria (grand- 
 daughter of John), birth, 348 ; 
 death, 351 
 
 Evelyn, Mary (daughter of Sir 
 Richard Browne and wife of 
 John Evelyn), marriage with, 
 145 and n. ; references to, 148, 
 255, 261 n., 279 «., 285 «., 311, 
 323, 454 n. \ portrait, 164 and n. ', 
 Princess Henrietta thanks her 
 for a copy of the Character of 
 England, 208; Charles II.'s 
 condescension and promise to, 
 210 ; presents a copy of a minia- 
 ture by Oliver to Charles II., 
 213 ; visit to Duchess of New- 
 castle, 255 and n. ; entertains 
 the Queen at Sayes Court, 304 ; 
 her views on the duties of 
 women, Introduction, xxxvi ', 
 character of her by Dr. Bohun, 
 Introduction, ib. \ her reference 
 to her husband in her will, 
 Introduction, xix 
 
 Evelyn, Mary (daughter of John)> 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 5oi 
 
 2 95> 319, 339i 376 ; birth, 241 and 
 n. ; death, 367 ; her piety and 
 accomplishments, 362, 367-371 ; 
 monument and epitaph, 370 n. 
 
 Evelyn, Mary, Lady Wyche 
 (niece of John, and daughter of 
 George), John Evelyn presents 
 herewith a piece of plate at her 
 christening, 14.7 ; marriage, 428 
 and n. See Wyche 
 
 Evelyn, Mary (niece of John, and 
 daughter of Richard), marriage 
 of, 270 ; death of, 400 
 
 Evelyn, Richard (father of John), 
 his marriage and family, 1 ; his 
 person and character, 1 ; fined 
 for declining knighthood, 1 and 
 n. ; High Sheriff of Surrey and 
 Sussex, 1, 4 and «. ; sickness and 
 death, 9 ; epitaph, ib. 
 
 Evelyn, Richard, of Woodcote 
 (brother of John), birth, 1 and «. ; 
 chamber-fellow with his brother 
 John at Oxford, 8 ; alluded to, 
 3, 145 and «., 184, 223, 263, 
 
 268 ; marriage, 146 ; his house 
 called Baynards, 194 and «. ; 
 afflicted with the stone, 265, 
 
 269 ; his death and funeral, 269 
 Evelyn, Richard (son of John), 
 
 birth, 170, and christening, ib. ; 
 
 death, 196 ; his remarkable early 
 
 talents and piety, ib. and «., 
 
 411 ; his death-bed alluded to, 
 
 197 ; Dr. Jeremy Taylor's letter 
 
 on the death of, 462 
 Evelyn, Richard (another son of 
 
 John), death and burial, 230 
 Evelyn, Richard (grandson of 
 
 Evelyn), birth, 333 ; death, 335 
 Evelyn, Rose (cousin of Evelyn), 
 
 3 and n. 
 Evelyn, Susanna (daughter of 
 
 Evelyn), birth, 265 and «. ; 
 
 marriage, 388, 430 and »., 431 ; 
 
 character and accomplishments, 
 
 431, 454 n. See Draper 
 Evelyn, Sir Thomas, 3 and n., 
 
 333 
 Evelyn, William, of St. Clere 
 
 (son of George of Nuffield), 
 
 assumes the name of Glanville, 
 
 454 n. ; his issue, ib. 
 Evelyn, William (cousin of 
 
 Evelyn), his house near Clive- 
 den, 321 and n. 
 Evelyn, Sir William (1692), 371 n. 
 Evelyn, Mr. William John, the 
 
 present owner of Wotton House, 
 
 2 «., Preface, vi 
 Evening Lover, The, a play, 
 
 262 and n. 
 Everard, Mrs., a chemist, 156 
 Eversfield, Mr., of Sussex, his 
 
 daughter, 324, 333, 448 # 
 Evertzen, Captain, taken prisoner, 
 
 237 and ». ; his liberty restored 
 
 by Charles II. on account of his 
 
 father's services, ib. 
 Evil, touching for the, 205 and n. 
 
 358, 4°8 
 
 Evreux, noticed, 40 
 
 Exchange, at Amsterdam, 15 ; 
 at Paris, 31 ; merchants' walk 
 at Genoa, 54; at Venice, 118 
 
 Exchange, the Royal, the King's 
 statue at, thrown down (1649), 
 149 ; destroyed in Great Fire of 
 1066, 249 ; new building, 294 ; 
 Proclamation of James II. at, 
 366 
 
 Exchequer, shut up (1672), 284 
 and »., 292 and n. ; Tallies at 
 a discount (1696), 442, 443 
 
 Excise, etc., continuance of, 367 
 and n. ; duties let to farm by 
 James II., ib. ; Scots grant them 
 for ever, 372 
 
 Executions (see Question) at 
 Rome, no; at Venice, 124; in 
 Switzerland, 143 ; in England, 
 9, 167, 169, 350, 376 
 
 Exeter Chapel and House, 
 London, 195 and n. 
 
 Exeter College, Oxford, comedy 
 performed at (1637), 7 
 
 Exhalation, account of fiery 
 (1694), 433 
 
 Exomologetis, by Dean Cressy, 
 228 
 
 Experiment, a ship with two 
 bottoms, 234, 298 
 
 Exton, Dr., Judge of the Admir- 
 alty, 228 
 
 Eye of a Dutch boy, phenomenon 
 
 in > 453 . , ., 
 
 Eyre, Mr. Justice, a subscriber to 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 ». 
 
 Faber, engraver, 354 n. 
 Fabricius, Jerome, physician, 62 
 
 and n. 
 Fagg, Mr., 467 
 Fairfax, Lord, 181 «., 310 
 Fairfax, Major, 310; character 
 
 of, ib. 
 Fairs, three proclaimed, 183 n. 
 Falkland, Lord (Treasurer of the 
 
 Navy), 346, 359, 369, 370; 
 
 death, and account of, 434 
 Falkland, Lady, 359, 369 and «. 
 Falmouth, Charles Berkeley, 
 
 Earl of, 215 and n. 
 Familiar Letters, cited. See 
 
 Howell 
 "Family of Love," address to 
 
 James II. from the (1687), 399 
 
 and n. 
 Fane, Mrs., Pepys's housekeeper, 
 
 422 and n. 
 Fanelli, statues in copper by, 221 
 Fans, from China, 230 
 Fanshawe, Lady Anne, her 
 
 Memoirs cited, 162 n. 
 Fanshawe, Sir Richard, allusions 
 
 to, 165 and «., 184, 211, 222 
 Fardingales, 220 
 Farnese Palace at Rome, account 
 
 of, 63 and «., 88 
 Farnese, Cardinal Alessandro, no 
 Farnese, Alexander, Duke of 
 
 Parma, statue of, 88 and n. 
 
 Farnesina, at Rome, 83, 99 
 
 Farringdon, Mr., funeral of, 258 
 
 Farringdon, town of, 177 
 
 Fasts, notices of, 147, 159, 191 and 
 »., 198, 201, 202, 209, 219, 237 
 and »., 239, 241, 244, 245, 251, 
 333, 416, 420, 422, 424, 428, 429, 
 
 435. 457 
 Fauconberg, Thomas Belasyse, 
 
 Viscount, 311 and »., 346 
 Faustina, Temple of, 64 and n. 
 Faversham, 408 and n. 
 Fay, Governor of Portsmouth, 202 
 Fearne, Dr., 202 
 Feasts, the Lord Mayor's (1679), 
 
 322 ; Mr. Denzil Onslow's, 335 ; 
 
 a Dutch feast, 343 
 Felix, St., burial-place, 102 
 Felkin's History of Machine- 
 wrought Hosiery, etc., Manu- 
 factures, (1867), cited, 213 n. 
 Fell, Dr. John, Bishop of Oxford, 
 
 213, 232, 267 and «., 304 ; sermon 
 
 in blank verse, 236 ; death of, 
 
 392; account of, 213 n. 
 Felton, Sir John, 308 
 Fenwick, Mr., and his wife, cause 
 
 between, 456 and n. 
 Fenwick, a Jesuit, executed, 319 n. 
 Fenwick, Sir John, taken, 441 and 
 
 n. ; executed, 443 
 Ferdinand, Duke, public works, 
 
 and statue, at Leghorn, 57 
 
 and n. 
 Ferdinand I., Grand Duke of 
 
 Florence, chapel of, 113 
 Ferdinand of Spain, Governor of 
 
 Flanders (1633-41), 23 and «. 
 Ferguson, Robert, the " Plotter," 
 
 348 and «., 375, 376 
 Feria, Duke of, 134 
 Fermor, Sir William, afterwards 
 
 Baron Leominster, 318 and «., 
 
 334, 427 and n. ; some Arundelian 
 
 statues purchased by, now at 
 
 Oxford, 423 and n. 
 Ferrara, notice of, 117 
 Ferrari, Dr. Francisco Bernardino, 
 
 133 and »., 134 
 Ferrers, Baron, tenure of, at 
 
 Oakham, 180 and n. 
 Fete Dieu, at Tours, 46 
 Feversham, Lewis de Duras, Earl 
 
 of, 302 »., 361, 364, 37.5i 379 J 
 
 taken prisoner by Prince of 
 
 Orange, 409 
 Fiamingo, sculpture, etc., by, 6g, 
 
 76, 109, 155 
 Fiat, Mons., 175 
 Field, Dr., Bishop of Oxford, 3 
 Fielding, Sir John, 4 
 Fielding, Lady Mary, her mar- 
 riage, 398 ». 
 Fiennes, Dr., sermon by, 360 
 Fiennes, Celia, her Diary cited, 
 
 174 n., 175 »., 176 «., 179 «., 
 
 180 «., 182 «., 190 n., 307 «., 
 
 308 ». 
 Fiesole, Giovanni di, painting by, 
 
 104 
 Fifth - Monarchy - Men, sermon 
 
502 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 msurrec- 
 
 against, 194 and n 
 tion of, 208 
 
 Filmer, Sir E., 355 
 
 Finale, notice of the shore of, 52 
 
 Finch, Sir John, Lord Keeper, in 
 Holland (1641), 12 and «., 15 ; 
 allusions to, 277 
 
 Finch, Heneage, afterwards Lord 
 Chancellor, and Earl of Notting- 
 ham, 233 and #., 332 
 
 Finch, Heneage (son of Lord 
 Chancellor), afterwards Earl of 
 Aylesford, 319, 388 and n., 397 ; 
 James II.'s speech to the Counci 1 
 on his accession, taken down in 
 writing by, 365 n. ; purchases 
 Albury, 399 ; Burley-on-the-Hill 
 bought by the family of, 180 n. 
 
 Finch, Mr., Warden of All Soul's, 
 388 n. 
 
 Fioravanti, a painter in Rome, 
 
 i°9. 155 
 Fiorenzuola, 114 
 Fire-eater, peformances of a, 288 
 
 and «., 355 
 Fire-works, at Rome (1644), 81, 
 
 107 ; on the Thames (1684), 360 
 
 and n. ; London (1688), 404 ; 
 
 (1697), 443 ; in St. James's 
 
 Square (1695), 439 
 Fire-worshippers, in Persia, 328 
 Firmin, Mr. Thomas, account of, 
 
 417 and «., 442 n. 
 Fish, horn of one presented to 
 
 Royal Society, 230 and n. 
 Fishmongers' Hall, 234 and «., 
 
 Fish-ponds, various references to, 
 61, 97 »., 108, 142, 308, 344, 383, 
 
 477 
 
 Fitzgerald, Lady Catherine, 359 
 
 Fitz-Harding, Lord, death of, 292 
 
 Fitzmaurice- Kelly, Mr. J., Life 
 ofCerva.7ites cited, 120 
 
 Fitzpatrick, Colonel, 397 
 
 Flagellants at Rome, 106 
 
 Flamel, Nicholas, the alchemist, 
 41 and n. 
 
 Flamerin, Mons., 360 
 
 Flaminius Circus, 101 
 
 Flamsteed, Dr, John, astronomer, 
 306 and n., 326, 350, 359, 442 
 
 Fleet, engagement with the Dutch 
 (1665), 237 ; victory over the 
 Dutch at Sole Bay (1665), 238 ; 
 Charles II. visits fleet at the 
 Nore, 239 ; fight with the Dutch 
 in the Downs (June 1666), 244 ; 
 mangled state of the, 245; defeat 
 of the Dutch off North Foreland 
 (1666), 246 and n. ; ships burned 
 by Dutch at Chatham (1667), 
 257 and n. ; encounter with 
 Dutch fleet off Gravesend, ib. ; 
 English and French united 
 fleets (1672), 285 ; victory at 
 Sole Bay (1672), 286-7 ; poor 
 state of, in 1683, 350 ; (1689), 
 416 ; defeated by French in 
 Bantry Bay, 416 ; need for fast 
 frigates, 419 ; cannot meet the 
 
 French fleet, 421, 426 ; battle of 
 La Hogue, 428 and ». ; Admiral 
 and officers disagree, 429 and n. ; 
 prevents embarkation of French 
 troops (1696), 439 «. 
 
 Fleetwood, Dr. James, Bishop of 
 Worcester, sermon by, 304 
 
 Fleming, Sir Daniel, Introduc- 
 tion, xxxv n. 
 
 Fletcher, Sir George, Introduc- 
 tion, xxxv n. 
 
 Floors of rooms, red plaster, etc., 
 used for, 54 and n. 
 
 Florence, account of city of, 57 ; 
 bridges, ib. ; goldsmiths' shops, 
 ib. and «. ; palaces of Strozzi 
 and Pitti, ib. ; church of Santo 
 Spirito, 58 ; Palazzo Vecchio, 
 ib., 274 ; Hanging Tower, ib. ; 
 the Duke's Repository of Curi- 
 osities, ib. ; church of the An- 
 nunziata, 59, 112; Duke's 
 Cavallerizza and Menagerie, 59 ; 
 Poggio Imperiale, 111 ; collec- 
 tions of Prince Leopold and 
 Signor Gaddi, Academy de la 
 Crusca, 113 ; church of St. 
 Lawrence, ib. ; arsenal, artists, 
 etc., ib. 
 
 Florival, Mons., of Geneva, 446 
 
 Fog, remarkable (1670), 274 ; 
 (1676), 306 ; (1699), 448 ; (1684), 
 
 356 
 Fondaco dei Tedeschi, at Venice, 
 
 ii8_ 
 Fondi, 90 
 
 Fons Felix, Rome, 69 
 Fontaine, Mrs., 189 
 Fontainebleau, palace and gar- 
 dens, 36-7 and n. 
 Fontana, Annibal, carving by, 134 
 Fontana, Domenico-Maria, archi- 
 tect, works of, 70, 73, 74 and n., 
 
 78, 86, 101, 103 
 Fontana, Lavinia, painting by, 87 
 
 and n., 99 and n. 
 Fontana delle Terme, at Rome, 
 
 69 
 Fontana di Speccho, 108 
 Fonts, remarkable, 19 and n., 56 
 Fop- Dictionary (1690), Evelyn's, 
 
 cited, 353 n. 
 Forbes, Mr., 354 
 Force, Duchess de la, 417 
 Forcats pour la Foi (1866), M. 
 
 Athanase Coquerel, 384 n. 
 Forests, notices of, 36, 43, 44 and 
 
 «., 225 
 Formello, Donato de, painting by, 
 
 85 «• 
 Formia (Formiae), 91 
 Forneron, M. Henri, Louise de 
 
 Keroualle, cited,- 275 n., 280 n. 
 Forreine Travell, Instructions 
 for (1642), Howell, cited, 14 »., 
 
 31 n., 41 n., 42 n. 
 Forster, Sir H., house at Alder- 
 
 maston, 174 
 Forster, John, cited, 180 n. ; his 
 
 edition of the Diary, Preface, 
 
 vi-ix 
 
 Fortifications, continental, 13, 19, 
 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, 32, 39, 47, 48, 
 51, 52, 55. 58, 60, 62, 91, 92, 117, 
 124, 132, 135, 142; English, 7, 
 11, 25, 178, 181, 379, 380 
 
 Fortuna Virilis, Temple of, Rome, 
 
 99 
 Forum Boarium at Rome, 66 
 
 Forum Julij, 52 
 
 Forum Romanum, Rome, 79, 81 
 
 Forum Trajanum, 104 
 
 Forum Vulcani, 95 
 
 Foscari all' Arena, Palace of, 126 
 
 Fossa Nuova, monastery at, 89 
 
 Fotherbee, Sir John, 15 
 
 Foubert, Mons., 336; his academy, 
 
 ib. n., 342, 361 
 Fouchris, Johannes de, 62 
 Fountains. See Waterworks 
 Fowler, Dr. Edward, Bishop of 
 
 Gloucester, 424 n. 
 Fowler, Sir Thomas, his aviary, 
 
 t. 173 „. 
 
 Fox, Sir Stephen, 246 and n. ; a 
 
 Lord Commissioner of the 
 Treasury, 324, 395 ; account of 
 him, 246 «., 329; his daughter, 
 334> 335> 4°4 ', proposed purchase 
 of Chelsea College, 335; directed 
 by the King to draw up Regula- 
 tions, etc., for Chelsea Hospital, 
 338, 340 ; his great interest with 
 bankers, 337 ; his house at 
 Chiswick, 342 and »., 346 ; 
 allusions to him, 318, 321, 322, 
 
 335. 342, 346, 353 : 355. 3.6°, 37°. 
 378, 407 ; grand dinner given by, 
 384 ; subscription to Greenwich 
 Hospital, 442 n. 
 Fox, Jane, proposal for marriage 
 
 of, 334 
 
 Fox, Lady, 342 and n. 
 
 Fox's Journal, Mr. P. L. Parker 
 (1903), cited, 191 n. 
 
 Foy, Dr., 445 
 
 Fraizer, Dr. Sir Alexander, 226 
 and «., 244 
 
 Frampton, Dr. Robert, afterwards 
 Bishop of Gloucester, 283 ; 
 sermons by, 289, 389 ; deprived, 
 424 n. 
 
 Franc, Mons. le, notice of, 189 ; 
 ordained of the Church of 
 England, ib. 
 
 France, Evelyn's travels in, 26- 
 52 ; paved roads in, 42 ; centre 
 of, 48 ; peace made with (1649), 
 148 ; persecution of Protestants 
 (1683), 347 ; (1685), 374, 384, 385 ; 
 (1686), 388, 389, 390, 391, 392, 
 393 ; (1687), 399, 400, 401, 415, 
 418, 420, 446 ; Europe m arms 
 against, 417 ; famine in (1692), 
 430. See French Ambassador, 
 French Court, etc. 
 
 France, North - Western, Hare 
 (1895), cited, 39 «. 
 
 France, South - Eastern, Hare 
 (1890), cited, 50 71. 
 
 France, The State <?/" (Evelyn), 
 references to, 10 «., 40 »., 46 »., 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 503 
 
 49 «., 479, Introduction, xix, 
 xxii 
 
 France, Travels in (1698), Dr. M. 
 Lister, cited, 35 «., 41 n. 
 
 Francesco, Signor, a master of the 
 harpsichord, 297, 339 
 
 Francis I., King of France, tomb 
 of, 27 ; his palace called Madrid, 
 35 and n., 153 ; his regard for 
 Leonardo da Vinci, 134 ; por- 
 trait of, 148 
 
 Francis de Paolo, St., 46, 103 
 
 Francis, Robert, 375 n. 
 
 Franciscan Monastery at Siena, 
 62 
 
 Franco, John Baptist, manu- 
 facturer of firearms, 132 
 
 Frascati, description of, 107 
 
 Frazer, Mr., books purchased by, 
 
 349 
 Frate, II, paintings by, 112 
 Freart, Roland, treatise of, trans- 
 lated by Evelyn, 232 «., 480 
 Frederic, Elector Palatine, 3 n. 
 Frederick, Sir John, his pageant, 
 
 etc. , when Lord M ay or, 2 1 6 an d n. 
 Freeman, Sir Ralph, of Betch- 
 
 worth, 225 and n. 
 French, Dr., 175 and n., 228 
 French Ambassador's encounter 
 
 with Spanish Ambassador in 
 
 London (1661), 215, 470 
 French Ambassador at tfie Court 
 
 of Charles II. , M. Jusserand's, 
 
 mentioned, 216 n., 470 n., 472 
 
 »., 473 «. 
 French capture Luxemburg, effect 
 
 °f| 359 '■> besiege Genoa, ib. ; 
 
 land in Ireland, 420; take 
 
 Gamboo, 433 
 French Church in the Savoy, 191, 
 
 269 
 French Court, audience of British 
 
 Ambassador, 152, 161 ; masque 
 
 at, 158 ; visit of Grandees from 
 
 the, 276 
 French fleet, masters at sea (1689), 
 
 416 ; (1690), 421 ; Benbow's 
 
 fight with, in West Indies (1702), 
 
 456 ; defeated at La Hogue, 
 
 428 and n. 
 French Gardener and English 
 
 Vineyard (1658), ># 476, 479 ; 
 
 Introduction, xxii and n. ; 
 
 published, 200 and n. m 
 French invasion feared (1692), 422, 
 
 428 ; defeated (1696), 440, 441 
 French, landing of, at Teign- 
 
 mouth, 422 and n. 
 French language, pure quality of, 
 
 at Blois, 45 and «. ; at Bourges, 
 
 48 
 French refugees at Greenwich, 
 
 church service for (1687), 397, 
 
 398, 399 
 French, Robina, n£e Cromwell, 
 
 188 and n. 
 Frene, M., of Paris, his collection, 
 
 36 
 Frescoes at Fontainebleau, 36 
 
 and n. 
 
 Friend, Sir John, executed (1696), 
 
 440; absolved by non-juring 
 
 ministers, ib. and n. 
 Frier, Mr., schoolmaster, 3 
 Fries, Hans, lute-maker, 116 
 Frigate, peculiar advantages of, 
 
 419 ; the first one built in 
 
 England, ib. and n. 
 Frobisher, Sir Martin, portrait, 
 
 264 n. 
 Frognall, Sir Philip Warwick's 
 
 house at, 302 
 Fromantil, curious clock by, 207 
 
 and n., 213 
 Frost, remarkable (1658), 197 ; 
 
 (1681), 334; (1683-4), 355, 356; 
 
 (1684-5). 362; (1688-9), 409; 
 
 $1694-5), 436; (1695), 438; 
 
 (1696-7), 443 ; (1698), 444 
 Frost Fair on Thames (1684), 355 
 
 and «., 356 
 Frowde, Mr., clerk to Mr. Locke, 
 
 289 and n. 
 Fuel, scarcity, etc., of, 257 ; trials 
 
 of new, ib. 
 Fuentes, Marquis de la, pass 
 
 granted by, 130 
 Fulgentine Monks, at Rome, 100 
 Fulgosi, Rodolphus, tomb of, 123 
 Fulham, Dr., sermon by, 444 
 
 and n. 
 Fuller, Isaac, paintings by, 233 
 
 and n. 
 Fumifugiutn (1661), by Evelyn, 
 
 cited, 53 »., 248 and n. ; publica- 
 tion of, 214 and «., 215 «., 476, 
 
 479 
 Funeral, Steele's play (1701), 
 
 cited, 340 n. 
 
 Gaddi, Signor, of Florence, col- 
 lection of, 113 
 
 Gaeta, city of, 91 
 
 Gaetano. See Pulsone 
 
 Gaillon, palace of the Archbishop 
 of Rouen, 38 and n. 
 
 Gale, Dr. Thomas, master of St. 
 Paul's School, 343 and «., 437, 
 
 438 
 Galicano, Prince of, at Rome, 
 
 107 
 Gallant, The Wild, by Dryden, 
 
 226 
 Galleries in the Vatican, 85 
 Galley-slaves, at Marseilles, 51 ; 
 
 at Leghorn, 57 
 Galloway, Thomas Sydserff, 
 
 Bishop of (1658), 162 n. \ or- 
 dination by, 154 
 Galloway, Lord (1659), 201 
 Gallus Castratus, _a pamphlet, 
 
 Introduction, xxiii 
 Galway, Henry de Ruvigny, Earl 
 
 of (1701), 392 «., 453 and n. 
 Gamboo, Castle of, taken by the 
 
 French, 433 
 Gaming, at Leghorn, 57 ; at 
 
 Venice, 128 j at Court of 
 
 Charles II., 218, 261, 362, 366 
 Garden, The (Cowley), quoted, 
 
 Introduction, xxii »., xxxvi n. 
 
 Gardens, in Four Books (1673), a 
 translation by John Evelyn, jun., 
 289 and n. 
 
 Gardens : Abroad— 2X the Prince's 
 Court at the Hague, 14 ; at 
 Leyden, 17 ; Bois-le-Duc, ig ; 
 Prince's Court at Brussels, 23 ; 
 Jardin Royal, Paris, 32 ; of the 
 Tuileries, 33 ; of the Archbishop 
 of Paris at St. Cloud, ib. ; of 
 Cardinal Richelieu at Rueil, 
 34 and «. ; ditto at Palais Cardi- 
 nal, Paris, 42, 152, 161 ; of 
 Count de Liancourt, 35 ; at St. 
 Germain, 33 ; Fontainebleau, 37; 
 of M. Essling at Paris, 38 ; at 
 Caen, 39; Luxembourg Palace, 
 40-1 and n. ; M. Morine's, at 
 Paris, 42, 158 ; at Blois, 44 and 
 n. ; Du Plessis, 46 and n. ; 
 Chevereux, 47 ; Richelieu, 48 ; 
 St. Pietro d' Arena, 53 and n. ; 
 of the Palace of Negros, Genoa, 
 54 ; of Prince Doria at Genoa, 
 ib. ; of the Marquess Spinola, 
 55 ; at Pisa, 56 ; at the Palace 
 of Pitti, Florence, 57 ; Palazzo 
 de Medicis, Rome, 67 ; Prince 
 Ludovisi's, 68 ; Villa Borghese, 
 72, 107 ; Cardinal Borghese's, 
 at Rome, 82 ; at Monte Cavallo, 
 69, 82 ; of Sallust, 69 ; Vatican, 
 86-7 ; Horti Mathaei, 100 ; of 
 Justinian, 103, 105 ; Cardinal 
 Bentivoglio's, 104 ; Frascati 
 (Cardinal Aldobrandini's), 107 ; 
 Mondragone, 108 ; Palace 
 d'Este, at Tivoli, ib. ; Garden 
 of Simples, Siena, in; at 
 Pratolino, 114; Padua, 126; 
 Mantua, ib. ; Count Ulmarini's, 
 Vicenza, 131 and n. ; Count 
 Giusti's, at Verona, 132; Geneva, 
 143 ; of President Maison at 
 Paris, 151 ; Royal Gardens, 
 Paris, 161. In England — at 
 Hatfield, 25 and n. ; Theobalds, 
 ib. ; Wotton, ib., 166 and «., 335 ; 
 Mr. Ban-ill's, 146; at Sayes 
 Court, 170 and «., 345 and n., 
 356, 480, Introduction, xxi 
 and n. ] Lady Brook's at Hack- 
 ney, 173 ; Mr. Tomb's, ib. ; 
 Spring and Mulberry Gardens, 
 ib. and n. ; Earl of Pembroke's 
 at Wilton, 177 ; Physic Garden 
 at Oxford, 176 and »., 233; 
 Orangery, etc., at Beddington, 
 199, 451 ; at Audley-End, 184 ; 
 Deepdene, Dorking, 186 and «., 
 273 ; at New Hall, 191 ; Medical 
 Garden, Westminster, 198 ; New 
 Spring Garden, Lambeth, 214 
 and n. ; Lord Bristol's, at 
 Wimbledon, 219 ; Hampton 
 Court, 221, 416 ; Mr. Pett's, at 
 Chatham, 228 ; of the Earl of 
 Norwich, Epping Forest, 268 ; 
 at Syon House, 239 ; at Albury, 
 259 and n., 273, 399*. Lord 
 Arlington's, at Euston, 280, 308; 
 
504 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 at Berkeley House, London, 
 288, 359 ; at Althorp, 301 ; En- 
 field, 304 and n. ; at Belsize 
 House, Hampstead, 305 ; Sir 
 Thomas Bond's, at Peckham, 
 z ^-i 336; at Roehampton, 307; 
 at Marden, 310 ; Lord Lauder- 
 dale's, at Ham House, 314 and 
 «. ; Sir Henry Capel's, at Kew, 
 314, 354, 401 ; Countess of 
 Bristol's, at Chelsea, 317 ; at 
 Cashiobury, 325 ; at Fulham 
 Palace, 336 ; at Chiswick, 342 
 and n. ;, Mr. Bohun's, at Lee, 
 342, 351 ; at Burghley House, 
 354 ; Apothecaries' Garden at 
 Chelsea, 378 ; Lady Clarendon's 
 atSwallowfield, 383; St. James's, 
 392 ; Sir William Temple's, at 
 Sheen, 401 ; Lord Northamp- 
 ton's, 404 ; at Brompton Park, 
 434, 454 ; Kensington, 418, 440; 
 Turnham Green, 459 ; Evelyn's 
 plan for a Royal Garden, 478 
 
 Gardner, Mrs., 157 ; marriage of, 
 163 
 
 Garmus, Mr., Hamburg Resi- 
 dent in England, his entertain- 
 ment, 213 and n. 
 
 Garro, arrest of Evelyn by, 47 
 
 Garter, Order of the, celebration 
 of St. George's Day (1667), 254 ; 
 Mr. Ashmole's Institutions, etc., 
 of the, 312 and n. 
 
 Gascoigne, Sir Bernard, 271 and 
 n., 282, 311 
 
 Gassendi, Pierre, translation of his 
 Vita Peireiskii (edit. 1657), J 93 
 and n. 
 
 Gassion, — , soldier, monument 
 for, at Charenton, 152 
 
 Gaston of Orleans, cited, 39 n. 
 
 Gattamelata, statue, etc., of, at 
 Padua, 123 and n. 
 
 Gatteridge, Captain, 442 n. 
 
 Gauden, Sir Denis, 320 and «., 429 
 
 Gauden, Dr. John, 320 n. 
 
 Gaunt, John of, 23 and n. ; Hos- 
 pital of, 180 
 
 Gaurus, Mount, 96 
 
 Gawdie, Sir John, account of, 
 307 and n. 
 
 Geere, Sir R., present to St. 
 James's Church, Piccadilly, 361 
 
 Geneva, account of, 141, 142, 143 ; 
 booksellers, the Town House, 
 142 ; sports in the Campus 
 Martius, 142-3 ; religion, 143 ; 
 exercises in Mars' Field, id. ; 
 Church of St. Peter, ib. ; Col- 
 lege, ib. 
 
 Gennaro, natural stoves at, 95 
 
 Gennep, siege of, 11 and «., 29 
 
 Genoa (1644), account of, 53-55 ; 
 Palace of Hieronymo del 
 Negros, 54; of the Prince Doria, 
 ib. ; armoury, ib. ; Strada Nova, 
 churches, 55 ; the Mole and 
 Walls ? ib. and n. ; dress of the 
 inhabitants, ib. and n.; besieged 
 by the French, 359 
 
 Genovo Palazzi di (Rubens), 53 
 and n. 
 
 Gens d'armes of Paris, muster of, 
 42 
 
 Gentileschi (Orazio Lomi), paint- 
 ing by, 100 
 
 Gentleman s Magazine, quoted, 
 8 «., 98 »., 163 «., 201 «., 216 n., 
 456 ». 
 
 Genuine Remains (17 59), Butler's, 
 cited, 177 n. 
 
 George, Piince of Denmark, 224, 
 3 5o,. 362 
 
 Georgia, etc., women of, 328 
 
 Georgione (Giorgio Barbarelli), 
 painting by, 198 
 
 Gerard, Charles, Lord, account 
 of, 159, 226 ; referred to, 254 
 
 Gerards, Balthasar, 14 n. 
 
 Germain, Lord, 151 
 
 Germaine, Sir John, 450 
 
 Germans at Orleans University, 
 43 and n. 
 
 Germany, revolution in (1624), 3 ; 
 method of perfuming rooms in, 
 187 
 
 Gerrard, Lady, 146, 166, 171, 172, 
 173 
 
 Gerrard, Sir Gdbert, 388 
 
 Ghent, account of, 23 
 
 Ghetto, at Rome, 84 ; at Venice, 
 129 
 
 Giant rock at Pratolino, 114 and n. 
 
 Gibbons, Christopher, musician, 
 176 and n. 
 
 Gibbons, Grinling, carver, dis- 
 covered by Evelyn, and intro- 
 duced to the King, etc., 274, 
 275 ; carvings, etc., by, 312, 
 324, 326, 342, 346, 361 and «., 
 
 394 
 Gibbs, Dr. James Alban, account 
 
 of, 63 and n., 88 
 
 Gibson, Dr. Edmund, Bishop of 
 London, communication to, by 
 Evelyn, for Camden's Brit- 
 annia, 436 and n. 
 
 Gifford, Captain, misfortune of, 
 
 .438 
 Gilbert, lapidary of Venice, 130 
 Gilbert, Dr. William, portrait of, 
 
 224 
 Gildron, collection of paintings, 
 
 .149 
 Ginkell, Godart van, 425 n. 
 Giolo, the painted Prince, 445 
 
 and n. 
 Giotto (Ambrogiotto), mosaic by, 
 
 76 
 Giovanni, Signor, of Florence, 114 
 Giovio, Paulus. See Jovius 
 Girandolas, revolving fireworks, 
 
 360 and n. 
 Giuseppe, Cavaliero. See Arpino 
 Giusti, Count of Verona, his Villa, 
 
 132 
 Gladiators, celebrated statues of, 
 
 68 and »., 82 and «., 88 
 Glanville, William (brother-in-law 
 
 of Evelyn), 145 and «., 171, 
 
 424 and n. ; his death and burial 
 
 in the sea, 454 ; descendants, 
 
 ib. n. 
 Glanville, Jane (Evelyn's sister). 
 
 See Evelyn 
 Glanville, Sir John (Speaker), 171, 
 
 177 and n. 
 Glanville, William (son of Speaker), 
 
 I 7 I . 
 Glanville, William (nephew of 
 
 Evelyn), 177, 301, 449 
 Glass colouring, remarks relative 
 
 to i 340 ; ale glass, a yard long, 
 
 366 and «. 
 Glass manufacture, 126, 2gr, 306 
 
 and n. 
 Gloucester, wreck of the (1682), 
 
 340 «. 
 Gloucester, Henry Stuart, Duke 
 
 of, 274 ; death of, 206 and n. 
 Gloucester, Duke of, son of 
 
 Princess Anne, 451 and n. 
 Gloucester Cathedral, 178 
 Gloves, custom of presenting, 461 
 
 and n. 
 Glow-worms, flying (Lucciole), 116 
 Godbid, William, 447 n. 
 Godfrey, Sir Edmund Berry, 
 
 murder of (1678), 316 and n., 
 
 320, 375 71. 
 Godfrey, Sir Edmund Berry, 
 
 Who killed (1905), by Mr. 
 
 Alfred Marks, cited, 316 «. 
 Godolphin, Francis (son of Lord), 
 
 birth, 315 and «., 374; marriage 
 
 of, 444 and »., 456 ; alluded to, 
 
 378 
 
 Godolphin, Dr. Henry, 322 and «., 
 403, 44p ; sermon by, 357 
 
 Godolphin, Sidney, afterwards 
 Lord Godolphin, his marriage, 
 299 and «. ; Evelyn builds him 
 a house, 306 ; Master of the 
 Robes, 312 ; a Lord Commis- 
 sioner of the Treasury, 318, 320, 
 360, 395 ; created' Baron Godol- 
 phin, 359 ; made Chamberlain 
 to Queen Mary (1685), 367 ; his 
 infant son, 374, 378 ; his house, 
 Cranborne Lodge, in Windsor 
 Park, 393 and «., 429 ; a Com- 
 missioner to the Prince of 
 Orange, 408 ; subscription to 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 and n. ; 
 retires from the Treasury, 443 ; 
 his return to it, 423, 452 ; Lord 
 Treasurer, 455, 457 ; offers 
 Evelyn the Treasurership of 
 Greenwich Hospital, 436 ; a 
 Commissioner for the Hospital, 
 437 ; alluded to, 302 and n., 
 306, 307, 314, 315 and »., 316, 
 318, 321, 370, 372, 398, 429, 431, 
 
 456 
 Godolphin, Mrs. Margaret, wife 
 of the preceding (formerly Miss 
 Blagge), Introduction, xxxi ; 
 her marriage, 299 ; allusions to 
 her, 266, 281 and n., 297 and 
 «., 303 and »., 304,306, 311; 
 birth of her son, 314 ; her 
 charities, 312, 315 ; her death, 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 5°5 
 
 314 ; character, etc., id.', funeral, 
 315; papers, etc., id. \ life of, 
 prepared by Evelyn, 479 and 
 »., 480 ; Introduction, xxxii n. 
 Godolphin, Sir William, 314 and 
 
 *•> 3i5> 3i7» 3i9i 360. 37°i 374. 
 
 4°3> 43.1 
 Godolphin, Cornwall, 315 
 Godstone, Surrey, Sir John 
 
 Evelyn's house at, 199 and «. ; 
 
 monument of Sir John Evelyn 
 
 at, 310 and n. 
 Godwin, William, his Lives of 
 
 Edward and John Phillips, 
 
 229 
 Goffe, Colonel, 196 
 Goffe, Dr. Stephen, a Romish 
 
 priest, 12 and n. ; Evelyn's 
 
 conversation with, respecting 
 
 Cressy's Answer to Pierce, 228 
 
 and n. 
 Gold, ductility of, 352 
 Golden Grove, The, by Dr. Jeremy 
 
 Taylor, 187 n. 
 Golden Square, Tabernacle near, 
 
 430 and «., 432 
 Golding, Captain, killed in en- 
 gagement with the Dutch, 
 
 237 n. 
 Goldsmith, Oliver, Deserted Vil- 
 lage cited, 62 n. 
 Goldsmiths' Company, funds 
 
 seized by Charles II., 284 «. 
 Gollancz, Professor, reprint of 
 
 Evelyn's Life of Margaret 
 
 Godolphin, Introduction, xxxii 
 
 n. 
 Gondolas of Venice, description 
 
 of, 118; gift of one to Charles 
 
 II., 220 
 Gondomar, Count, Spanish Am- 
 bassador (1624), 3 and n. 
 Good Friday, ceremonies at 
 
 Rome, to6 
 Goode, Dr., minister of St. 
 
 Martin's, 433 
 Goodman, Dr., sermon of, 360 
 Goodrick, Sir Henry, a subscriber 
 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Goose, unnatural one, 173 
 Gorcum, or Gorinchem, town of, 
 
 13 and n. 
 Gore, Mrs., married George 
 
 Evelyn, junior, 447 
 Gorges, Sir Arthur, his house at 
 
 Chelsea, 219 and n. 
 Gorges, Mr., 278 
 Goring, Col. George, 12 and «., 
 
 18, 25 
 Goring House, 236 and «., 265 
 
 and «., 270, 290 ; burned, 296 
 Gospel, ancient copy of St. John's, 
 
 58 
 Gospel in Foreign Parts, Society 
 
 for Propagation of, 455 and «. 
 Gosse, Mr. Edmund, Seventeenth 
 
 Century Studies, 261 n. 
 Gostling, John, his fine bass 
 
 voice, 563 and «. 
 Gotefredi, Signor, collection of 
 
 medals, 107 
 
 Goujon, Jean, 41 n. 
 
 Goupy, L., engraver, 339 n. 
 
 Gouttieres, near Colombiere, 
 caves so called, 46 
 
 Governe, Madame de, 392 
 
 Governor of Havannah, capture 
 of, 432 
 
 Grafton, Henry Fitzroy, Duke of 
 (natural son of Charles II.), 
 marriage of, 287 and n. ; re- 
 marriage, 322 ; alluded to, id. 
 and M.,341, 377; duel fought 
 by, 388; death, 354 «., 422; 
 birth of his son, 354 ; alluded 
 to, 389 
 
 Grafton, Charles, Duke of (son of 
 above), 354 and n. 
 
 Grafton, Duchess of (daughter of 
 Lord Arlington), marriage, 287 
 and «., 322 ; character and 
 notices of, id. ; allusions to, 308 
 and n., 309, 321, 351, 353, 431 
 and n. ; appeal to the House of 
 Lords, 432 ; birth of her son, 
 
 Graham, Colonel James, in love 
 with Mrs. Dorothy Howard, 
 301 and »., 311 ; married, 301 
 and n. ; Mrs. Graham, 311, 
 379; their house at Bagshot, 
 etc., 379, 383 and n. ; alluded 
 to, 305 
 
 Graham, Mr., absconded, 423 ; 
 in the Fleet, 440 
 
 Grammont, Philibert, Comte de, 
 276 and n. ; his Memoirs cited, 
 218 »., 238 «., 309 »., 401 n. 
 
 Granada, Conquest or Siege of, 
 a play by Dryden, 275 and «. 
 
 Grand Signor, letters of, to the 
 Popes, 135 
 
 Grange, Prince de la, at Lincoln's 
 Inn (1662), 218 
 
 Grantham, notice of the town, 
 182 and n. 
 
 Graunt, John, his remarks on the 
 Bills of Mortality, 299 and n. 
 
 Graves, Robert, his print of Rose, 
 gardener to Charles II., 214 
 
 Gray's Inn, 214; Douthwaite's 
 Grays Inn, 218 n. 
 
 Gray's Works (Gosse), cited, 28 «. 
 
 Greatorix, Ralph, mathematical- 
 instrument maker, 189 and n. 
 
 Grebner, Ezekiel, his Visions and 
 Prophecies concerning Eng- 
 land, 183 
 
 Greek Church, at Rome, 105 ; 
 sign of Cross in, 109 ; schismatic 
 Greeks at Venice, 124 
 
 Greenborow (Robert Greenbury ?), 
 painting by, 233 and n. 
 
 Greene, Anne, restored after hang- 
 ing, 298 
 
 Green's Spleen, quoted, Introduc- 
 tion, xx i «. 
 
 Greenwich, Italian glass - house 
 at, 291 ; Ferry, 191 ; French 
 refugees at, 397, 398, 399 
 
 Greenwich, palace at, possessed 
 by the rebels, 146, 167 and n. ; 
 
 design of building a new Palace 
 at, 216, 219 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, commission 
 for endowing, etc., and pro- 
 ceedings in relation to it, 437, 
 438, 440 ; new commission, 457 ; 
 Evelyn offered the Treasurer- 
 ship, 436 ; agreement with 
 workmen, 441 ; first stone laid, 
 442 ; subscriptions, id. ; want 
 of money for (in 1696), id. and 
 n. ; hall and chapel of, 445; 
 lottery for, 446; Evelyn's 
 accounts as Treasurer, 452 and 
 «., 454, 455 ; Mr. Draper be- 
 comes Treasurer, 457 ; seamen 
 first received there, 459 ; sub- 
 scribers to, 442 
 
 Greenwich Park, elms planted in, 
 229 ; Observatory built, 306, 
 326, 350, 359 
 
 Gregory XIII., Pope, Cardinal 
 Hugo Buoncompagno, palace 
 built by, 69 and n. ; chapel, 
 75 ; his hall in the Vatican, 84 
 
 Gregory XIV., Pope, Cardinal 
 Nicolo Sfrondati, bridge built 
 by, 62 
 
 Gregory, Mr. Justice, a sub- 
 scriber to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. 
 
 Gregory, St., statue of, at Rome, 
 79 and n. 
 
 Grenades, 229 and n., 256 
 
 Grenadiers, introduction of (1678), 
 312 ; (1683), 355 
 
 Grenville, Bernard, house at 
 Ab's Court, 294 and n. 
 
 Grenville, Sir Bevil, 210 n. 
 
 Grenville, Sir John, afterwards 
 Earl of Bath, 210 and n. 
 
 Gresham, Sir Thomas, statue of, 
 preserved in the fire of London, 
 250; noticed, 15, 222, 223 
 
 Gresham College, meetings of 
 Royal Society at, 208 and n., 
 209, 294 {see Royal Society) ; 
 inquiry into revenues of, 221 ; 
 trial of a new fuel at, 257 
 
 Greviile, Sir F., portrait, 264 «. 
 
 Grew, Dr. Nehemiah, 311 and n. 
 
 Grew's Catalogue of Rarities 
 belonging to the Royal Society 
 (1681), 230 n. 
 
 Grey, Forde, Lord, proclamation 
 against, 348 and n. ; defeated 
 with the Duke of Monmouth, 
 and taken, 375 ; condemned and 
 pardoned, 386 ; heavily fined, 
 
 395 
 Grey, Lady Jane, 264 «. 
 
 Grey, Mr. (son of Lord Grey), 
 
 277 
 Griffith, Captain, 164 and n. 
 Griffith, Lord, his Chapel (1693) 
 
 43 1 
 Griffith, Prince, 154 
 
 Griffith, Sir John, 241 
 
 Grimaldi family, 52 
 
 Grimaldi, Giovanni Francesco (II 
 
 Bolognese), 101 
 
506 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Grimani Palace, Venice, 124 
 Grindal, Edmund, Archbishop of, 
 
 Canterbury, monument of, 451 
 Grograms (Gros -grain), manu- 
 facture of, 46 and «., 167 
 Groombridge (Kent), house and 
 
 chapel, 169 and n., 295 
 Groot, de (or Grotius), Hugo, his 
 
 escape from Fort Loevestein, 
 
 13 and n. 
 Groot, de, Mons. (son of Hugo), 
 
 129 
 Grotto del Cane, Naples, 94-5 
 
 and «. 
 Grotto di Natura, 108 
 Guarda - Damas, office of, 220 
 
 and n. 
 Guarini, John Baptist, portrait of, 
 
 101 and n. 
 Guercino, Giovanni Francisco 
 
 Barbiero, called, painting by, 
 
 -, 116 
 
 Guesclin, Bertrand du, his sepul- 
 chre, 27 
 
 Guicciardini, Francisco, 306 and 
 n. 
 
 Guido. See Reni 
 
 Guildford, Surrey, Red Lion Inn 
 and Hospital at, 172 and n. 
 
 Guildford, Elizabeth, Countess of, 
 208 and «. 
 
 Guildford, Francis North, Lord, 
 285 and n. ', funeral and char- 
 acter of his wife, 448 
 
 Guildhall, London, paintings in, 
 224, 292 and n. ; Charles II. 
 entertained in (1660), 204 ; 
 Lord Mayor's feast in (1664), 
 232 
 
 Guillotine, in Naples, Venice, and 
 France, no and »., 303 and n. 
 
 Guinea, Gamboo Castle taken by 
 the French, 433 
 
 Guiscard, attempts to stab Robert 
 Harley, 452 n. 
 
 Guise, Duke of, 51, 276 
 
 Guitar, skilful Italian player on 
 the, 218 
 
 Gundolph, Bishop of Rochester, 
 476 
 
 Gunman, Captain, 303 ; account 
 of him, 371 
 
 Gunning, Dr. Peter, Bishop of 
 Ely, sermons by, and allusions 
 to, 195 and «., ib., 197, 202, ib., 
 289 and n., 290, 303 ; character, 
 etc., of, 289 and n. ; opinion on 
 the Test, 317 ; death, 360 
 
 Gunpowder Plot, 317 and n. ; 
 bonfires forbidden (1685), 385 
 
 Guns, first use of, 55. See Cannon 
 
 Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy, 
 
 344 
 Gustavus Adolphus II., King of 
 
 Sweden, 330, 415 
 Gutenburg, or Gensfleisch, John, 
 
 inventor of printing, 17 and n., 
 
 18 
 Guzman, Don Gaspar de Teves 
 
 y, Spanish Ambassador at 
 
 Venice, 129 
 
 Gwyn, Nell, 252 »., 254 «., 261 
 «., 276 and n., 338, 364 ; said to 
 go to Mass, 388 
 
 Haarlem, church, etc., at, 14, 17 
 
 and «. ; perspective of, 188 
 Haberdashers' Company, Lord 
 Mayor's pageant in 1664, 233 n. 
 Hacker, Col. Francis, regicide, 
 
 executed, 206 
 Hacket, Dr. John, Bishop of Lich- 
 field, sermon by, 199 and n. 
 Hackney, Lady Brooke's garden 
 
 at, 173 
 Haddock, Sir Richard, lottery 
 prize won by, 432 
 
 Hadrian IV., portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Hague, The, Queen of Bohemia's 
 Court at, 12 ; Hof, or Prince's 
 Court at, 14 ; Hof van Houn- 
 sler's Dyck, t8 
 
 Hale, Sir Matthew, Chief Justice, 
 277 
 
 Hales, Edward, of Chilston 
 (Evelyn's cousin), 244 and n. 
 
 Hales, Sir Edward, 186 and n., 
 187, 390 n. ; Governor of Dover 
 Castle, 389 and n. ; Lieutenant 
 of the Tower, 403, 408 n. ; ar- 
 rested, 409, 416 n. 
 
 Hales, Mr., 319 
 
 Halford, Sir Henry, College of 
 Physicians opened by, 345 «. 
 
 Halifax, Sir George Savile, Mar- 
 quis of, 268, 279, 305 and «., 
 367, 392, 407, 408, 413, 418 and 
 n. ; death of, 437 
 
 Hall, patent of King's Printer 
 refused to, 389 
 
 Hall, Dr. George, sermon by, 199 
 and »., 267 
 
 Hall, Dr. Joseph, Bishop of 
 Exeter, translated to Norwich, 
 199, 344 and n. 
 
 Halls, notices of various, 14, 22, 
 3i» 125, 130, 346, 378 
 
 Ham House, Petersham, Duke of 
 Lauderdale's house, 314 and n. 
 
 Ham House, Weybridge, belong- 
 ing to the Duke of Norfolk, 313 
 and n. 
 
 Ham House, its History and 
 Treasures (Mrs. C. Roundell), 
 cited, 120 »., 314 n. 
 
 Hamburg, siege of, 393 ; relieved, 
 ib. 
 
 Hamet, the Morocco Ambassador 
 (1682), 337 n. 
 
 Hamilton, James, first Duke, trial 
 (1649), x 47 an d n ' '■> execution, 
 148 and n. ; treachery of, 163 
 and n. 
 
 Hamilton, General Richard, cap- 
 tured at Battle of the Boyne, 
 421 and n. 
 
 Hamilton, Lady, and George, her 
 husband, 303 
 
 Hamilton, Rev. Mr., 162 
 
 Hamilton, William, imprisoned, 
 
 453. «• 
 Hamilton, William Douglas, Duke 
 
 (1660), 205 and «. ; (1682), 342 ; 
 
 (1688), 407 ; marriage of his son, 
 
 400, 404 
 Hamlet, Prince 0/ Denmark, 
 
 performed, 217 and n. ; cited, 
 
 102 n., 121 ?i. 
 Hammond, Dr. Henry, 175, 368 
 
 and n. 
 Hampden, John (1680), 331 and 
 
 n. ; (1689), 411; (1693), 432; 
 
 committed to the Tower, 348 ; 
 
 released, 355 ; tried and fined, 
 
 357 . 
 Hampshire, frigate, 244 
 
 Hampshire, Guide to (1904), 
 
 Black, cited, 380 n. 
 Hampstead, Lord Wotton's house 
 
 at, 305 
 Hampstead, History of, Park's, 
 
 cited, 305 ». 
 Hampton Court, Charles I. at, 
 
 145 and n., 220 ; gardens, 221, 
 
 416 ; Court held there (1665), 
 
 239; (1666), 242; (1681), 335; 
 
 addresses presented to James II. 
 
 at (1687), 398, 399 ; Palace at, 
 
 221, 416 n. 
 Handbook to Browning's Works 
 
 (Orr) cited, 71 n. 
 Hanging, woman restored to life 
 
 after, 298 
 Hanging tower, at Pisa, 56, in; 
 
 at Florence, 58 ; at Bologna, 
 
 "5 
 
 Hanmer ? Sir Thomas, 193 and n. ; 
 
 portrait of, 362 and «. 
 Hannibal, headpiece of, 59 
 Hanover, Duke of, excluded from 
 
 the British throne (1689), 417 
 Hanover, Sophia, Electress of. 
 
 12 n. 
 Harbord, Sir Charles, 214 ; his 
 
 son's death, 286 
 Harbord, William, Ambassador to 
 
 Turkey, 429 and n. 
 Harcourt, Count d', Grand Ecuyer 
 
 de France, 161 
 Harcourt, Prince, 52 
 Harcourt, Sir Simon, 453 
 Hardwick Hall, plaster floor at, 
 
 54 «• 
 
 Hare, Augustus, North-Western 
 France, cited, 39 n. ', South- 
 Eastern France, cited, 50 n. ; 
 Walks in Rome, cited, 69 »., 
 71 n., 99 n., 100 n. 
 
 Harlakenton, Mr., 187 
 
 Harley, Col. Edward, 316 n. 
 
 Harley, Robert, Earl of Oxford, 
 Speaker of House of Commons, 
 452 ; account of, ib., n. 
 
 Harlington, village of, 309 and n. 
 
 Harman, Captain, 244 
 
 Harpsichord, new form of, 231 
 
 Harrison, Henry, executed, 410 n. 
 
 Harrison, Sir John, house near 
 Hertford, 26 and n. 
 
 Hartlib, Samuel, ^ visited by 
 Evelyn, 187 ; notice of, ib., n. 
 
 Hartlip, Kent, war prisoners at, 
 285 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 507 
 
 Harvey, Dr. , statue of, 224 ; anni- 
 versary oration, 231, 342 ; por- 
 trait, 264 «. 
 
 Harvey, Mr., of Combe, 459 and n. 
 
 Harvey, Sir Daniel, 244 
 
 Harwich, a ship, lost, 426 
 
 Hasted, Edward, his History of 
 Kent, cited, 169 ». 
 
 Hatfield, palace at, 25 and n. 
 
 Hatton, Christopher, Lord, 149 «., 
 i5i> i53. 157. i93> 214; house 
 of, at Kirby, 182 
 
 Hatton, Lady, 149 and «., 196 
 
 Hatton, Serjeant Richard (Eve- 
 lyn's cousin), 25 and «., 145 
 
 Hatton Garden, built over, 201 
 and n. ; exhibition in, 294 and «. 
 
 Hausse, M. de, his library, etc., 
 
 36 
 
 Havannah, Governor of, his mis- 
 fortunes, 192 and n. 
 
 Havre de Grace, citadel, etc., of, 
 39 and n. ; bombarded, 435 
 and n. 
 
 Hawkins, Sir J., portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Hawley, Lord, 282 
 
 Hayes, Sir James, 288 
 
 Haymarket, paving of (1662), 222 
 
 Haywood, Sir William, 282, 385 
 
 Headache, cure for, 148 
 
 Headly, Thomas, Evelyn's ser- 
 vant, 173 
 
 Hearth Tax, abolition of, 413 
 and n. 
 
 Heath, Captain, 442 n. 
 
 Heath, Mr. and Mrs., 164, 180, 
 261 
 
 Heath's Chronicle ', 470 
 
 Heaviside, Mr., 209 n. 
 
 Hebert, Evelyn's valet, robs him, 
 
 i44 
 Hebrew manuscript, 86 
 
 Hedges, Sir Charles, 452 
 
 Heinsius, Daniel, notice of, 17 
 and n. ; library, 349 
 
 Helena, St., statue of. 76 ; monu- 
 ment, 79 ; chapel, 104 
 
 Helmsley, Yorks, Duke of Buck- 
 ingham's estate, 441 and n. 
 
 Henchman, Dr. Humphrey, 
 Bishop of London, 202 and «., 
 205, 247 
 
 Hengist, the Saxon, mound built 
 by, 17 
 
 Henrietta, Princess (daughter of 
 Charles I.), 157 and «., 269 «. ; 
 condescension to Mrs. Evelyn, 
 208 
 
 Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles 
 I., her reception at Tours, 47 
 and n. ; resides at Bourbon 
 l'Archambault, 48 and n. ; 
 averse to marriage of Duke of 
 York, 206 ; arrives in England, 
 
 207 and n. ; returns to France, 
 
 208 and n. ; visits Evelyn, 222 ; 
 compliments him, id., 234 ; 
 alluded to, 220, 221 and «., 223, 
 224 
 
 Henrietta Maria, Life <?/"(Miss 
 I. A. Taylor), cited, 49 n. 
 
 Henry, a ship, 244 
 
 Henry, Prince of Wales, son of 
 James I., his palace at Charlton, 
 167 
 
 Henry III. of England, 476 
 
 Henry IV. , King of France, statues 
 of, 29 and «. , 34, 37, 79 *, crowns, 
 etc., of, 28; alluded to, 18 
 and «. ; book of drawings be- 
 longing to, 155 
 
 Henry VII., Emperor, 61, no 
 
 Henry VII., King of England, 
 picture of, at Whitehall, 188 ; 
 referred to, 191 ; "office" of, at 
 Whitehall, 328 
 
 Henry VIII., King of England, 
 his Book against Luther, 86 
 and n. ; portrait of, 148 ; an 
 " office " of, 176 ; chimney-piece 
 belonging to, 186 ; referred to, 
 27, 182, 186, 191 
 
 Henry IV. 2, cited, 13 n. 
 
 Henry the Eighth, Life and 
 Raigne of King (1694), cited, 
 27 n. 
 
 Henshaw, Thomas, travels with 
 Evelyn, 56 and n. , 99, 104, 107, 
 109, 126, 127, 128 ; allusions to 
 after his return, 147, 150, 171, 
 189, 192, 198, 206, 214, 305, 326 ; 
 recommended for an embassy 
 by Evelyn, 204, and as French 
 Secretary to the King, 214 ; his 
 History of Salt-Petre, id. ; 
 return from^ Denmark, 302 ; 
 etchings dedicated to, by Eve- 
 lyn, 480 ; a letter to, cited, In- 
 troduction, xviii 
 
 Heralds' College, part of the 
 Arundel Library presented to, 
 
 3 J 4 
 Herbal, Miller's (1722), cited, 339 
 
 n. 
 
 Herbert, Admiral, defeated by the 
 French in Bantry Bay, 416 and 
 n. See Torrington, Earl of 
 
 Herbert, Lord, son of Earl of 
 Pembroke, 173, 237 
 
 Herbert, Lady, 152, 156 
 
 Herbert, Lord Edward, of Cher- 
 bury, 27 and n., 165 ; his Life 
 cited, Introduction, xv n. 
 
 Herbert, Mr., 339 and «., 424 
 
 Herbert, Sir Edward, afterwards 
 Lord Keeper, 152 
 
 Herbert, Sir Edward, 388 and n. ', 
 Lord Chief Justice, bold speech 
 of, 391 ; a Commissioner for 
 Ecclesiastical Affairs, 392 ; his 
 house at Oatlands, 399 and n. ; 
 attainted, etc, ib. n. 
 
 Herbert, George, his Country 
 Parson cited , In troduction,xv n. 
 
 Herbert, Sir Henry, 165 and «., 
 235 and n. 
 
 Herbert's Antiquities of the Inns 
 of Court, etc., 218 n. 
 
 Hercules, 58, 63, 05, 9°. 99. iz6 *> 
 temple of, at Milan, 134 
 
 Hercules in Lydia, an opera, 
 
 122 
 
 Hereford, Viscount, his house at 
 
 Ipswich, 308 and n. 
 Hermit of the Colosseum at Rome, 
 
 72 
 Hertfordshire, remarkable robbery 
 
 in, 429 
 Hervey, John, 188 and »., 314 
 Hervey, Mr., of Betchworth, 454 
 
 and n. 
 Heusden, town and fort of, 19 
 Hevelius, or Hevelke, John, 21 
 
 and n. 
 Hewer, Mr. William, house at 
 
 Clapham, 429, 456; account of 
 
 him, 429 n. 
 Hewit, Dr. John, 172 and «., 198 ; 
 
 executed, ib. 
 Hewson, regicide, executed, 206 
 Heylyn, Dr. Peter, odours of Paris, 
 
 29 n. ; sermon by, 210 and n. 
 Heynes, Thomasine, 310 
 Hickes, Sir William, house and 
 
 family at Rookwood, 201 
 Hicks 's Hall (Sessions House), 349 
 
 and ft. 
 Hieroglyphics, stone with, com- 
 municated by Evelyn to Kircher, 
 
 127 
 Higgins, Sir Thomas, his daughter, 
 
 394 
 High Church Party, expression 
 
 used (1705), 459 
 Higham, Rev. Mr., 3, 9, 307 ; 
 
 sermons by, 172, 184 ; death, 
 
 358 
 Highgate, refugees from Great 
 
 Fire of London resort to, 250 
 Highland Dragoons (1694), 433 ; 
 
 two Dutchmen killed by one of 
 
 them, ib. 
 Hilcus, Sydrach, contrives decoy 
 
 in St. James's Park, 236 n. 
 Hildeyard, Henry, 148, 163 and «., 
 
 171 and «., 184, 300, 424 
 Hill, Abraham, F.R.S., 339 and 
 
 «•> 343 
 Hill, Birkbeck, note to Johnson's 
 
 Poets cited, 388 n., 391 n. 
 Hippodrome at Rome, 100 
 Hispaniola, treasure from, 398 
 
 and n. 
 Historia Piscium, Ray (1686), 
 
 389 n. 
 Historical MSS. Commission, 
 
 Report of cited, Introduction, 
 
 xxxv «., 388 «., 444 n. 
 History of England (Macaulay), 
 
 cited, 205 »., 220 m 
 History of His Own Time, 
 
 Burnet (1724), cited, see notes on 
 
 pp. 151, 245, 261, 289, 291, 292, 
 
 348, 359. 3 6 3> 389. 39 J > 4°7> 4Q9> 
 414, 416, 453 
 
 History of the Rebellion, Claren- 
 don's, cited, 145 «., 146 «., 198 
 n., 458 and «. 
 
 Hoare, Richard, an excellent pen- 
 man, 150 and «., 480 and n. ; 
 strange sickness of, 171 
 
 Hobbes, Thomas, visited by 
 Evelyn, 160 and n. ; book 
 
5o8 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 against his Leviathan, 171, 188; 
 
 alluded to, 318 
 Hobbs, Dr., 6 
 Hobbson, Mr., a merchant of 
 
 Venice, 129 
 Hobson, the Cambridge carrier, 
 
 183 and n. 
 Hof van Hounsler's Dyck, account 
 
 of, 18 
 Holbein, Hans, portraits, etc., by, 
 
 148, 173, 186, 207, 308, 314 and 
 
 «•» 329, 353. 3g6» 440 
 Holden, Dr. Richard, Vicar of 
 Deptford, 289 and n., 303, 392 ; 
 character of, 289 ; sermon by, 
 
 37° 
 Holden, Dr., a Sorbonne Divine, 
 
 152 
 
 Holder, Dr., 358 
 
 Holland, Evelyn's travels in, 12- 
 23 ; visit to, recommended by 
 Evelyn, 10 «. ; East India Com- 
 pany of, 192 ; Peace proclaimed, 
 258 and n. ; complaint against 
 Evelyn's Preface to his History 
 of the Dutch War, 296 ; effect 
 of capture of Luxemburg by the 
 French (1684), 359 ; Embassy to 
 congratulate William and Mary, 
 416 
 
 Holland, Henry Rich, first Earl 
 of, execution of, 148 and n. 
 
 Holland, Sir John, 251 
 
 Hollandia Illustrata (or Batavia 
 Illustrate/, of Peter Schryver), 
 referred to, 13 and n. 
 
 Hollar, Wenceslaus, notice of, 10 
 and n. ; engravings by, 204 n., 
 251 n. 
 
 Holies, Denzil, Lord, creation of, 
 etc., 210; account of, ib. n. 
 
 Hollo way, Sir Richard, Justice of 
 the King's Bench, 403 and «., 
 415 n. 
 
 Holmby House, ruins of, 301 and 
 n. ; given to Louis Duras, Earl 
 of Feversham, 302 
 
 Holmes, Sir Robert, 265 and n., 
 283, 288, 295, 380 
 
 Holt, Sir John, Lord Chief Justice, 
 442 n. 
 
 Holy Cross Z?*ry(Browning), cited, 
 
 83 71. 
 
 Holy Thursday, ceremonies on, at 
 
 Rome, 105 
 Holy Wells, near Malvern, 179 
 Holyhead, earthquake at, 422 
 Homer, ancient edition of, 446 
 Hondius, or de Hondt, William, 
 
 of Amsterdam, 16 and n. 
 Honfleur, in Normandy, notice of, 
 
 39. 
 Honiton, 408 
 Honson Grange, Staffordshire, 
 
 sale of, 366 
 Hony wood, Captain - Lieutenant, 
 
 Hooker, William, portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Hooper, Dr. George, Bishop of 
 Bath and Wells, sermon by, 336 
 and n. 
 
 Hope, Lord Henry Pelham Clin- 
 ton, his seat called Deepdene, 
 186 
 
 Hopital de la Charit6, Paris, 32 
 and n. 
 
 Hopkins, William, engraving by, 
 224 «. 
 
 Hopton, Sir Arthur, 149 and «., 
 
 379 *• . 
 
 Horace, cited, 97 and n., 223 »., 
 
 347 and n. 
 
 Horace, Mrs. Philips's tragedy, 
 261 and «., 265 
 
 Horace, Imitations of (Pope), 
 cited, 45 «., 441 n. 
 
 Horatii and Curiatii, tomb of, 98 
 
 Horneck, Dr. Anthony, character 
 of, 345 and n. ; sermon by his 
 son, 448 
 
 Horninghold, Leicestershire, 179 
 and «., 182 
 
 Horns, at Hampton Court, 221 
 
 Horseheath, Lord Allington's 
 house at, 271 and n. 
 
 Horses, Evelyn's manege horse, 
 26 and n. ; the " great " or war- 
 horse, Introduction, xv and n. \ 
 fine statues of, 59, 65, 68 - 9 ; 
 fatal accident to rider at Milan, 
 136 ; racing of Barbary, at 
 Rome, 105 ; St. Mark's, Venice, 
 119 and n. ; wooden, 87 and n. ; 
 horse baited to death, 258 ; 
 Newmarket races, 279 ; Isabella 
 barb, 161 and n. ', Turkish or 
 Asian brought over (1684), 361 ; 
 exhibition of horsemanship, 338, 
 361 ; notices of, 59, 92, 132, 139, 
 272 
 
 Horsley, East and West, 171 and 
 
 »., 
 
 199 
 
 12 
 
 Hooke, Dr. Robert, 229 and «., 
 239 ; built Montagu House, 
 304 and «., 354 ; Bedlam 
 Hospital, 312 «. 
 
 Horti Mathaei, Rome, 100 
 
 Horticulture, Spanish, 264 
 
 Hortorum, Rapinus', translated 
 by Evelyn's son, 289 and n. 
 
 Hortus siccus, or hyemalis, 126 
 and n., Introduction, xxvii 
 
 Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, 
 History of the Machine- 
 wrought, Felkin (1867), cited, 
 213 
 
 Hoskins, Sir John, 327 : President 
 of Royal Society, ib. «., 343 
 and n. 
 
 Hospice des Quinze-Vingts, Paris, 
 32 and n. 
 
 Hospitals, various notices of, 
 abroad, 15, 32 and «., 49, 59, 61 
 and «., 88, 99, 101, 103, 129, 154, 
 x 43> J 53 J in England, 171, 180 
 342 
 
 Hotel Dieu, Paris, 32 and n. 
 
 Hotham, Sir John, commander of 
 Hull, 181 
 
 Houblon, Mr., merchant, 317 and 
 «., 381 ; his house in Epping 
 Forest, 344 
 
 Houblon, Sir John ; 317 »., 442 «. 
 Houblon, Lady Alice Archer, her 
 
 Houblon Family (1907), cited, 
 
 xvi, 317 n. 
 Hough, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 
 Worcester, 423 and n. 
 Houllies, a species of fuel, 257 
 Hounslow Heath, camp on (1678), 
 
 312 ; (1686), 391 and n. ; (1687), 
 
 398 and «. ; (1688), 403 ; (1689), 
 
 4i3 
 House-boats, 22 
 
 Household, Comptroller of the, 
 public dinners at Court, 228 
 
 Household, Royal, purveyors of 
 the, regulated, 344 and n. 
 
 How, John, complained of Bishop 
 Burnet's book (1693), 430 
 
 How, Mr., made a Baron, 453 
 
 Howard, Ann, wife of Sir G. 
 Sylvius, 265 and »., 310 and n. 
 
 Howard, Bernard, 222, 362 
 
 Howard, Charles, 222, 230 ; house 
 at Dorking, 186, 231, 273 
 
 Howard, Craven, law-suit against 
 his mother, 301 ; account of 
 him, ib. and n. 
 
 Howard, Dorothy, 291, 311 ; mar- 
 ried to Col. Graham, 301 and n. 
 
 Howard, Earls of Berkshire, man- 
 sion of, 253 n. 
 
 Howard, Edward, 222 
 
 Howard, Lord George (son of 
 sixth Duke of Norfolk), 313 n. 
 
 Howard, Henry, Lord, grandson 
 of the Earl of Arundel (after- 
 wards sixth Duke of Norfolk), 
 at Padua, 128 and «., 130, 201 ; 
 villa at Albury, pictures, etc., 
 186, 280 and n. ; dukedom 
 restored, 221 ; compounds a 
 debt of his grandfather's, ib. ', 
 permits the Royal Society to 
 meet at Arundel House, 253 ; 
 gives them the ArundeKan 
 Library, ib. and «., 265 ; pre- 
 sents the Arundelian Marbles 
 to Oxford University, 126 «., 
 259 ; thanked by the Univer- 
 sity, 259, 260 ; created Lord on 
 his embassy to Morocco, 260 
 and »., 265; conversation with 
 Evelyn regarding marriage of 
 bis son, his own connection 
 with Mrs. Bickerton, his house 
 at Norwich, etc., 280-81 ; alluded 
 to, 221, 222, 255, 263, 265, 274, 
 288, 311 and n. See Norfolk 
 
 Howard, Henry (son of the pre- 
 ceding, afterwards seventh 
 Duke of Norfolk), 222. See 
 Norfolk 
 
 Howard, Mrs. (widow of William, 
 fourth son of first Earl of Berk- 
 shire), and her daughters, 265 
 and «., 300, 310; law -suit 
 against, by her son, 301 and «. 
 
 Howard, Philip (afterwards Car- 
 dinal), 130 and n., 222 and «., 
 269 
 
 Howard, Sir Robert (son of the 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 509 
 
 Earl of Berkshire), play by, 
 225, 229 «. ; alluded to, 252 
 and «., 265 ; impeached Sir 
 Wm. Penn, 262 and n. ; "an 
 universal pretender," 346, 367 
 and n. ; his house at Ashtead, 
 358 and «. 
 
 Howard, Mr. Thomas (son of Sir 
 Robert), 424 ; death, 453 
 
 Howard, Lord Thomas (son of 
 Henry, sbcth Duke of Norfolk), 
 222, 313 ; children alluded to, 
 45o 
 
 Howard, of Escrick, Lord, con- 
 cerned in the Rye House Plot 
 and betrays his associates, 348 
 and n. ; Algernon Sidney exe- 
 cuted on his evidence, 355 
 
 Howell, James, cited, 14 «., 26 
 «., 30 n., 31 «., 41 ft., 42 n., 116 
 «., Introduction, xv 
 
 Huddlestone, Father, present at 
 death of Charles II., 364 and «. 
 
 Hudibras, cited, 150 n. 
 
 Hughes, Margaret, mistress of 
 Charles II., 252 
 
 Huguenots, persecution of, in 
 France, 384, 385 ; brief in Eng- 
 land for relieving, 389, 390 ; 
 book exposing the persecution 
 burnt, 384 n., 390 and «. ; 
 released and driven out of 
 France, 400 ; remorse and 
 massacre of those who had 
 conformed to the Romish faith, 
 401 ; service for, at Greenwich 
 church, 397 
 
 Hull, town of, noticed, 181 ; 
 declares for Prince of Orange, 
 246 
 
 Humber, the, noticed, 181 
 
 Hume, Colonel, 454 n. 
 
 Humorists, academy of, at Rome, 
 101 and «. 
 
 Hungary, Turkish successes in, 
 
 35° 
 Hungerford, Edward, of Caden- 
 
 ham, 174, 178, 179 n. 
 Hungerford, town of, 175 and n. 
 Hunter, Dr. A., editor of Evelyn's 
 
 Sylva, 479 
 Huntingdon, custom at, 182 
 Huntingdon, Theophilus Hast- 
 ings, Earl and Countess of, 
 270 and «., 279 
 Huntingtower, Lord, 308 
 Hurcott (manor of Worcester), 
 
 146, 147 
 Hurt, Mr., purchases Warley 
 
 Magna (1655), 187 
 Huss, John, medal of his martyr- 
 dom, 361 
 Hussey, Mr., his attachment to 
 
 Evelyn's daughter, and death, 
 
 376 and n. 
 Hussey, Mr., marries daughter of 
 
 George Evelyn, 4.36 and n. 
 Hussey, Peter, of Sutton, 273 and 
 
 n. ; his attention to husbandry, 
 
 335 
 Hutcheson, Lady, 270 
 
 Hutchinson, Memoirs of Colonel, 
 cited, Introduction, xx 
 
 Huygens, or Huyghens, Con- 
 stantine. See Zulichem 
 
 Hyde, Anne, married to James, 
 Duke of York, alluded to, 206, 
 208, 219, 310 ; death, 294 «. 
 
 Hyde, Dr. Thomas, 267 and n. 
 
 Hyde, Dr., 232 
 
 Hyde, Sir Edward (afterwards 
 Earl of Clarendon), 150 and n., 
 158. See Clarendon 
 
 Hyde, Lawrence. See Rochester, 
 Earl of 
 
 Hyde, Mr., 321, 340 n. 
 
 Hyde, Sir Henry, 232 
 
 Hyde, Lady Frances, 291 
 
 Hyde, Lady Harrietta, 246 
 
 Hyde Park, toll at (1653), 171 and 
 «. ; coach-race in (1658), 198 ; 
 referred to (1660), 204 ; (1661), 
 212 ; (1667), 271 ; review in 
 (1663), 227 ; (1679), 319 ; (1686), 
 389; display of horsemanship 
 by Morocco Ambassador (1682), 
 338 
 
 Ice, blue and transparent, 305 
 
 Icon Animarum (1614), notice of, 
 170 and n. 
 
 II Ponte, notice of, 114 
 
 Imitations of Horace (Pope), 
 cited, 45 «. 
 
 Imperati, Ferdinando, his collec- 
 tion, 92 
 
 Impostors, History of the Three 
 late (1669), by Evelyn, 263 «., 
 265 and n., 476, 480 
 
 Impresses ('devices), 69, 113 and «. 
 
 Incense, use of, 358 
 
 Inchiquin, first Earl of, 157 and n. 
 
 Inchiquin, second Earl of, Gover- 
 nor of Tangier, 326 and n. 
 
 India, curiosities from, 313, 451 
 
 Indian Ambassadors (1682), 
 account of, 341 and n. 
 
 Indian Queen, a play, 229 and n. 
 
 Indulgence, Declaration of (1672), 
 284 and n. ; (1687), 397 and n. ; 
 (1689), 416 and k. 
 
 Infirmary for sick and wounded, 
 Evelyn's plan for, 243 
 
 Inglis, or English, Hester, beauti- 
 ful writing of, 176 and «. 
 
 Ingoldsby, Sir — , house at York, 
 t8i 
 
 Inks for copying, 187 
 
 Innocent X., John Baptista Pam- 
 phili, Pope, his election, 61 ; 
 procession to St. John di 
 Laterano, 61 and n. 
 
 Inns of Court, etc., Antiquities 
 of the, Herbert (1804), 218 n. 
 
 Inquisition, references to the, 83, 
 
 i33» i? 6 
 Inscriptions, odd, 63 
 
 Ipswich, account of, 191, 308 
 
 Ireland, nomination of bishops 
 
 for, 205 ; remarks respecting its 
 
 natural history, 217 ; map of, 
 
 by Sir Wm. Petty, 298 ; cap- 
 
 ture of Drogheda (1649), 151 ; 
 Lord Clarendon appointed 
 Lord - Lieutenant, 378, 381 ; 
 forces sent to (1689), 412 ; Lord 
 Tyrconnel and his army in, 391, 
 412, 413 ; James II. 's expedition 
 to, 413, 415 ; sea fight in Bantry 
 Bay, 416 and «. ; movement to 
 relieve Londonderry, 416, 417 ; 
 French land in (1690), 420; 
 conquered by William, 422 ; 
 houses burned by Jacobite 
 party, ib. ; decisive battle of 
 Aghrim, 425 and n. ; Parlia- 
 ment reverses donations of for- 
 feitures^ 449 ; Commissioners 
 for forfeited estates, 450 
 
 Ireton, Henry, the regicide, death, 
 163 and n. ; funeral, 165 and ». ; 
 his severity at Colchester, ib. 
 and n., 190; disinterment, etc., 
 209 
 
 Irish Rebellion breaks out, 25 
 
 Irish soldiers, disorderly, 405 
 
 Iron crown, Milan, 135 and n. 
 
 Iron ovens, portable, 246 
 
 Ironmongers' Company, fraternity 
 feast (1671), 279 
 
 Iron-work in England, 177 
 
 Isaac, Mons., dancing master, 339 
 and n., 368 and n. 
 
 Isabella, origin of colour called, 
 161 n. 
 
 Isabella, Island of, 137 
 
 Isidoro, St., burial-place of, 119 
 
 Isis, statue of, in Palazzo Farnese, 
 88 
 
 Islands about Venice, 121, 125, 
 126 
 
 Isle Bouchard, 47 
 
 Isle of Wight, 380 ; Treaty, 147 
 
 Islington, resorted to by refugees 
 from Great Fire of London, 
 250 ; legacy to poor of, 449 
 
 Isola, 137 and «. 
 
 I sola Tiber ina, 99 
 
 Ispahan, plague at, 351 
 
 Italian player on the guitar, 218 ; 
 Scaramuccio at Whitehall, 302 
 
 Italian glass-house at Greenwich, 
 291 
 
 Italian Opera, introduction of, 
 into England, 294 
 
 Italian Puppet-play, 258 and n. ; 
 comedy at Court, 291 
 
 Italian singer, female, encourage- 
 ment given to, 456 
 
 Italy, notices of Evelyn's travels 
 in, 53-137 ; Mount Vesuvius, 
 93, 440, 480 ; measures of 
 churches in, 116 ; etchings of 
 views in, by Evelyn, 480 and n. 
 
 Italy, New Voyage to (Misson), 
 referred to, 93 «., 137 n. 
 
 Italy, Northern, cited. See 
 Murray 
 
 Italy, Remarks on (1705), Addi- 
 son, cited, 36 «., 55 «., 56 «., 
 57 «., 60 »., 61 «., 94 n., 95 n. 
 
 Italy, Voyage of (1670), cited. 
 See Lassels 
 
5i° 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Itinerary, Antonine's, 199 
 Ivelin, of Evelin, Normandy, 
 family of, 270 
 
 Jackson, Mr., heir to Mr. Pepys, 
 456 
 
 Jacobites, so called in 1696, 443 
 
 Jacombe, Dr., 295 
 
 Jamaica, 206, 276, 277, 278, 
 283 ; complaints against the 
 Spaniards, 285 ; design of the 
 Dutch upon (1673), 289; Natural 
 History of (Sir Hans SloaneV 
 423 and «.; earthquake at (1692), 
 429 ; profanely mimicked at 
 Southwark Fair, id. 
 
 James I., King of England, 183 
 
 James, Duke of York, afterwards 
 King James II., birth, 5; dis- 
 course with Evelyn (1661), 204 ; 
 collection of books, etc., for, 
 161 ; sailing match with Charles 
 II., 215 ; visits Evelyn at Dept- 
 ford, 219 ; letter to Evelyn on 
 the Dutch fleet, 237 ; victory 
 over the Dutch at Sole Bay, 
 238 and n. ; thanks Evelyn for 
 his services during the Plague, 
 242 ; visits the fleet (1666), 245 ; 
 opposes laying up men-of-war 
 (1667), 257 n. ; at Newmarket 
 (1671), 280; forbears receiving 
 the Sacrament, 290 ; resigns 
 appointment in consequence of 
 the Test Act, 291 n. ; marriage 
 with Mary of Modena, 294 ; 
 neglects to attend Protestant 
 worship, 304 ; his secretary, 
 Edward Coleman, executed, 
 317 ; Commons vote against, 
 for recusancy, 318 and n. ; 
 libellous papers against, 319 ; 
 his return to England on account 
 of the King's illness (1679), 3 21 
 and n. ; his case as to the suc- 
 cession, 334 and n. ; remarkable 
 escape of, from shipwreck, 340 
 and #., 371; office of Admiral 
 restored to, 358 ; present at 
 death of Charles II., 363 «., 
 364 ; account of the last hours 
 of Charles II., 365 n. ; speech 
 in Council on his accession, 365 
 and n. ; proclaimed, 365, 366 ; 
 opens a Popish Oratory at 
 Whitehall, 367 ; lets to farm 
 duties of customs, etc., 367 and 
 n. ; coronation, 372 ; his first 
 speech to Parliament, 373 ; dis- 
 course respecting the miracles 
 of the Saludadors, relics, etc., 
 379 and n. ; reception at Ports- 
 mouth (1685), 380 ; remarks on 
 his character, 381, 382, 454 ; 
 proves to Pepys that Charles 
 II. died a Roman Catholic, 381, 
 382 ; celebration of his birthday 
 (1685), 382 ; improvements at 
 Whitehall, 383 ; orders a Hugue- 
 not book to be burned, 384 n.'\ 
 speech to Parliament, 385 ; 
 
 entertains Venetian Ambassa- 
 dors, 386 ; anniversary of his 
 accession (1686), 388 ; birthday 
 (1686), 393 ; (1688), 406 ; repays 
 part of debt due to Sir R. 
 Browne, 398 ; speech to a 
 deputation from Coventry, ib. ; 
 alarm at the Dutch fleet, 402 ; 
 enjoins the reading of his de- 
 claration for liberty of con- 
 science, ib. ; birth of his son, 
 403, 406 and n. ; his consterna- 
 tion at the landing of the Prince 
 of Orange, 405, 407 ; his mili- 
 tary preparations, 405, 407 »., 
 
 408 ; touches for the evil, 408 ; 
 invites Prince of Orange to St. 
 James's, 409 ; his flight and 
 return to Whitehall, 408, 409 
 and n. ; his flight to France, 
 
 409 and «. ; throws the Great 
 Seal into the Thames, 408 n. ; 
 compared to Maxentius, 410 ; 
 protest against having ab- 
 dicated, 412 ; assisted by France 
 in his Irish expedition, 413 ; in 
 Ireland, 415 and n. ; Scots' 
 reasons for setting him aside, 
 415 ; surprised Londonderry, 
 ib. ; declaration of pardon, 416, 
 431 ; defeat at the Boyne, 421 
 and n. ; returns to France, ib. 
 and n. ; takes news of his 
 defeat, 422 ; letter respecting 
 the pregnancy of his Queen, 
 428 ; offers to submit all differ- 
 ences to Parliament, 431 ; in- 
 tended invasion of England 
 (1696), 439 ; Oates's book 
 against him, 440 and n. ; his 
 death, 454 and n. ; alluded to, 
 I5 x i 2 73> 285, 287, 296, 304 
 
 James Stuart, the " Old Pre- 
 tender," birth of, 403 and n. 
 
 James the Second, Life of , Clarke 
 (1816), cited, 210 n., 257 n., 290 
 »., 364 n., 365 «., 366 n., 377 n., 
 
 395 «• 
 James, Dr. Robert, probable 
 
 origin of his fever powder, 158 n. 
 James, Mr., 424 
 James, St., relics of, 77; St. 
 
 James minor, 83 
 Janicius, Dr., physician, 127 
 Janua Lingua-rum (J. A. Com- 
 
 enius), 196 
 Januarius, St., 92 and »., 95 
 
 and n. 
 January 30th first kept as a fast 
 
 (1661), 209 
 Janus Quadrifons, Temple of, 66, 
 
 180 
 Japan, curiosities from, 230 
 Jardin Royal, at Paris, 32 
 Java, 341 
 Jaye, Colonel, 21 
 Jebb's Bentley cited, 432 n. 
 Jeffreys, George, made Lord Chief 
 
 Justice, 353, 354 ; created Baron 
 
 Jeffreys of Wem, 353 n., 371 ; 
 
 his sentence on Titus Oates, 
 
 373 n. ; likely to be Lord 
 Keeper, 374, 378 ; Lord Chan- 
 cellor, 384, 387, 388, 403; 
 character of him, 353 «., 384; 
 a Commissioner for Ecclesi- 
 astical Affairs, 392 ; alluded to, 
 359 and «., 403, 415; death, 
 415 n. 
 
 Jefiryes, Dr., minister of Althorp, 
 404 
 
 Jemmy, a yacht, 245 
 
 Jenkins, Sir Leoline, 260 and n. 
 
 Jenner, Sir Thomas, 353 and n. 
 
 Jennings, Sarah, Duchess of Marl- 
 borough, 297 n. 
 
 Jermyn, Mr. Henry, afterwards 
 Baron Jermyn, of" Dover, 255 
 and «., 279 
 
 Jermyn, Henry, Lord, 151 
 
 J eronimo, painting by, 36 
 
 Jersey, Edward Villiers, Earl of, 
 Lord Chamberlain, 450 
 
 Jerusalem, Church at Bruges, 21 ; 
 earth of, carried to Pisa, 56, 
 and Rome, 78, 83, 104 
 
 Jesuitism, Mystery of in 3 vols., 
 the second translated by Evelyn 
 (1665), 234 and «., 243, 476, 
 479 ; thanked by Charles II. 
 for it, 235 
 
 Jesuits, their church, schools, etc., 
 at Antwerp, 20, 21 ; Paris, 30, 
 159 ; Bourges, 48 ; Tournon, 
 50 and n. ; Aix, 51 ; Genoa, 55 
 and n. ; Rome, 66 ; English 
 College at Rome, 81, 246 ; 
 Naples, 92 ; Milan, 133 ; Powder, 
 363 ; other notices of, 47, 48, 83, 
 101, 107, no, 136, 144, 198, 230, 
 319 and «., 320, 394, 405, 406, 
 410, 420, 454 ; fly on landing of 
 Prince of Orange, 408 ; Evelyn's 
 books against the, 234 and «., 
 243 ; Tonge's Jesuits' Morals, 
 316 and n. 
 
 Jesus College, Cambridge, 183 
 
 Jeu de Goblets, 295 and n. 
 
 Jewels, notices of various, 27-8, 
 
 4 1 , 54> 55i 58, 59. 68 , 79. "3. 
 120, 127, 201, 297 ; attempt to 
 steal the Crown, etc., from the 
 Tower of London, 276 and n. 
 
 Jews, synagogue at Amsterdam, 
 and burial-place at Overkirk, 
 14 ; curious conversation with a 
 Jew at Leyden, 18 ; wear red 
 hats at Avignon, 50 ; yellow at 
 Rome, 84, 109 ; sermon to, at 
 Rome, 83 and n. ; ceremony of 
 circumcision, 84 and «. ; Jews 
 at Venice, marriage, 129 ; bap- 
 tism of converted Jew, 103 ; 
 admitted in England, 188 
 and «. 
 
 Joachim, Abbot, painting by, 119 
 
 Joan d'Arc, her statue at Orleans, 
 43 and «. 
 
 Job, the painted Prince, 445 and n. 
 
 John, St., relic of, 55 n. ; original 
 of the Gospel of, 58 ; Apoca- 
 lypse of, 421 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 5" 
 
 John the Baptist, St., his arm 
 
 preserved, 61 ; baptistery of, 77 
 John of Gaunt, 23 and »., 180 
 John of Udine, paintings by, 84 n. 
 John, Father, of Rome, 63, 72 
 Johnson, Samuel, author of Julian 
 
 the Apostate, 357 and n. 
 Johnson, Mr., Commissioner for 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Johnson, Sir — , executed at Ty- 
 
 bum, 423 
 Johnson's Poets, note to, cited, 
 
 388 «., 391 n. 
 Jones, regicide, executed, 206 
 Jones, Sir Henry, 279 
 Jones, Inigo, 216 n. 
 Jones, Mr., of Gray's Inn, lawyer, 
 
 Jones, Sir William (1680), 331, 332 
 
 Jonson, Ben, 219 «., 224?/., 264 n. 
 
 Joseph of Arimathea, relic of, 83 
 
 Josephus, Flavius, History of, on 
 the bark of trees, 135 
 
 Joust and tournament at Rome 
 (1.645). 107 
 
 Jovius (or Giovio), Paulus, museum 
 of, 58 and n. ; sepulchre, 113 
 
 Joyliffe, Dr. George, physician, 
 148 and n. , 192, 195 
 
 Julian the Apostate (1683), Samuel 
 Johnson, 357 and n. 
 
 Julio Romano, paintings by, 36 
 
 Julius II., Cardinal Julian della 
 Rovere, Pope, tomb, 80 and ». 
 
 Juno, Temple of, 105 
 
 Jupiter, temples of, at Rome, 64 ; 
 at Terracina, 90 ; huge statue 
 of, 114 
 
 Jusserand, M., his French Ambas- 
 sador at the Court of Charles 
 II. mentioned, 216 «., 470 n., 
 472 «., 473 n. ; his English 
 Essays from a French Pen, In- 
 troduction, xxiii «., cited, xvi 
 
 Justel, Mons. Henry and Mme., 
 356 »., 360 ; arranged the 
 w. Library at St. James's, 356 n. , 
 423 ; account of, 356 n. 
 
 Justice, statue of, at Florence, 113 
 
 Justinian, gardens of, 103, 105 ; 
 statue, 105 
 
 Justiniani, Venetian Ambassador, 
 386 
 
 Juvenal, quoted, 138 and n. 
 
 Juxon, Dr. William, Bishop of 
 London, afterwards Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, noticed, 209 and 
 71., 212, 228 
 
 Kalendariuin Hortense (1664), 
 
 etc., by Evelyn, 2 «., 476, 479 
 Keele, notice of, 19, 20 
 Keepe, Henry, pamphlet by, 
 * 380 n. 
 
 Keffler, Dr., 246 
 Keightley, Thomas, cousin of 
 
 Evelyn, 3 »., 25, 171 
 Keightley, Mrs. Rose, her old 
 
 age, 333 and». 
 Reiser's Gracht, Amsterdam, 16 
 
 and n. 
 
 Kello, Rev. Bartholomew, 176 n. 
 
 Kemp, Mr., Impropriator of South 
 Mailing, 146 
 
 Ken, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of Bath 
 and Wells, account of, 396 n. ; 
 attends Charles II. in his last 
 illness, 364 and n. ; sermons by, 
 against Romanists, etc. (1686- 
 87), 389, 396, _ 401 ; refuses to 
 read Declaration of Liberty of 
 Conscience, 402 ; sent to the 
 Tower, ib. ; tried and acquitted, 
 403 ; his scruples on King 
 William's accession, 396 «., 414 
 n. ; deprived, ib., 424 ; beloved 
 in his diocese, ib. ; alluded to, 
 409 
 
 Kendal, Dr., Oxford Act per- 
 formed by, 175 and n. 
 
 Kendrick, Alderman John, a 
 fanatic Lord Mayor, 166 
 
 Kensington, Mr. Wise's house and 
 gardens at, 454 
 
 Kensington Palace, purchased by 
 King William, 418 and n. ; fire 
 at, 426 ; pictures, etc., 440 
 
 Kent, Anthony Grey, Earl of, 230 
 and n. 
 
 Kent, Countess of, 268 
 
 Kent, History of, Hasted's, cited, 
 169 n. 
 
 Kent, rising in (1648), 146 and n. ; 
 
 food cultivation in, 285 ; Kentish 
 [orse (1685), 366 ; Kentish men 
 
 imprisoned (1701), 453 and n. 
 Keppel. Arnold Joost Van, Earl 
 
 of Albemarle, commander of the 
 
 King's Guard, 446 and «. 
 Keroualle, Mile. Louise-Renee de, 
 
 see Portsmouth, Duchess of; 
 
 Life of, by M. Forneron, cited, 
 
 279, 280 n. 
 Keroualle, Guillaume de Penan- 
 
 coet, Sieur de, 300 and n. 
 Ketch, Jack, the hangman, 376 «. 
 Kew, Sir H. Capel's house, 314 
 
 and n., 354, 401 
 Keys, Thomas, executed (1696), 
 
 440 n. 
 Keysler, John George, his Travels 
 
 cited, 68 n., 71 »., 78 «., 79 n., 
 
 85 «., 86 «., 94 #., 99 «., no «., 
 
 123 «., 135 n. m % 
 Kidd, Captain William, pirate, 
 
 449 and n. 
 Kidder, Dr. Richard, Bishop of 
 
 Bath and Wells, 430, 432 «., 457 
 Kildare, John Fitzgerald, Earl of, 
 
 335 and n. 
 Killing no Murder, by Colonel 
 
 Titus, 265 and n. 
 Kilmorey, Lord, 198 
 Kineir, Andrew, 444 
 King of England, speech in 1686 
 
 asserting him to be absolute, 
 
 39 2 
 King, Dr. Edmund, relieved 
 
 Charles II. in apoplexy, 363 
 
 and «. 
 
 King, Dr. William, Archbishop of 
 
 Dublin, 458 and n. 
 
 King, Edward, executed (1696), 
 440 n. 
 
 King, Rev. Mr., of Ashtead, 199 
 
 King Street, Golden Square, 
 Tabernacle in, 430 «., 432 
 
 King Street, Westminster, design 
 of Charles II., 436 
 
 King's College Chapel, Cam- 
 bridge, 183 
 
 King's Evil, Royal touch for 
 (1660), 205 and n. ; (1688), 408 ; 
 great pressure at the (1684), 358 
 
 King's household, ancient supply 
 of, 207 n. 
 
 King's Lynn, 310 
 
 Kingston, Evelyn Pierrepont, 
 Earl of, 149, 336 
 
 Kinsale, surrender of, 422 and n. 
 
 Kip, print by, 342 ». 
 
 Kippis, editor of Biographia 
 Britannica, 432 ». 
 
 Kirby, seat of Lord Hatton, 182 
 
 Kirby, Captain, court-martial on, 
 and execution of, 456 and n. 
 
 Kirby 's Wonderful Museum 
 (1805), cited, 270 n. 
 
 Kircher, Father Athanasius, ac- 
 count of, and attentions to 
 Evelyn at Rome, 67 and n. ; his 
 collection, ib. and n. ; com- 
 munication by Evelyn to his 
 Obeliscus Pamphilius (1650-54), 
 127, 189 ; alluded to, 77 and »., 
 3i, 103, 186 
 
 Kirke, Major -General, relieves 
 Londonderry, 417 and n. 
 
 Kiviet, Sir John, 253 and «., 259 ; 
 his proposal to wharf the 
 Thames with brick, 254 ; his 
 drainage project, 271 
 
 Kleomenes, statue by, 82 and «., 
 
 113 
 
 Knatchbull, Sir Norton, sermon, 
 etc., by, 227 
 
 Knatchbull, Sir Thomas, Com- 
 missioner of Privy Seal, 418 
 
 Kneller, Sir Godfrey, his portrait 
 of Evelyn, 382 and »., 416 and 
 n. ; of Bishop Burnet, 416 
 and n. 
 
 Knife-swallowerSj 18, 217 and «., 
 
 304 
 
 Knight, Mr., of Northampton- 
 shire, 171 
 
 Knight, Mrs., singer and mistress 
 of Charles II., 201 and «. ; 
 compass of her voice, 297 
 
 Knight, Serjeant, surgeon, 285 
 
 Knight-Baronets fees, 391 
 
 Knightsbridge, 434 and n. 
 
 Knole Park, Kent, Duke of 
 Dorset's house at, 292 and n. 
 
 Konigsmarck, Count Carl Johann 
 von, 336 «., 339.?-. 349 «• 
 
 Konigsmarck, Philip von, 336 n. 
 
 Kouwenberg (Covenberg), Chris- 
 tian van, 18 «. 
 
 La Charite, town of, 144 
 
 La Doree, Mons., 167 
 
 La Hogue, battle of (1692), 428 
 
512 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 La Mothe le Vayer, F. de, 147 «. 
 
 La Neve, paintings by, 147 and n. 
 
 Labulla, boiling fountain of, 93 
 
 Lac Tigridis, drug so called, 230 
 
 Lacy, John, comedian, portraits, 
 224 and n. ; performance of, 225 
 and «. 
 
 Lago d* Agnano, Naples, 94 
 
 Lago di Garda, 132 
 
 Lago Maggiore, etc., 136 
 
 Lake, Dr. John, Bishop of Chi- 
 chester, petitions against read- 
 ing the Declaration of Liberty 
 of Conscience, 402 ; sent to the 
 Tower, ib. ; tried and acquitted, 
 403 ; alluded to, 409 ; refuses to 
 go to Parliament (1689), 414 n. 
 
 Lake, Mr., a Commissioner of 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 
 
 Lakin, Dan., P.C, Miraculous 
 Cure of the Prussian Swallow 
 Knife (1642), 217 n. 
 
 Lambard, Mr., estate at Wester- 
 ham, 172 
 
 Lambert, Col., 467 
 
 Lambeth, marble and glass works 
 at, 306 and n. ; Mr. Ashmole's 
 library, etc., at, 312 ; Sir Samuel 
 Morland's house at, 335 n, 
 
 Lambeth Palace, assaulted by a 
 mob (1640), 8 and n. ; library 
 at, 265, 399 
 
 Lamedrati, sea-horses sculptured 
 
 by, 59 
 Lamot, Mons., sermon by, 398 
 Lamplugh, Dr. Thomas, sermon 
 
 by, 291 and n. 
 Lampreys, tame, 97 and n. 
 Lancaster, Dr., vicar of St. 
 
 Martin's, 429, 449 
 Lance of St. Longinus, 75 ; letter 
 
 concerning, 135 
 Lane, Mrs. Jane, loyalty of, 163 
 
 and n. 
 Lane, Sir Thomas, 442 and n. ; 
 
 subscriber to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, ib. 
 Lanfranco, Giovanni, works of, 
 
 69, 87, 102, 103 and n. 
 Lang, Mr. Andrew, his Valefs 
 
 Tragedy and other Studies, 
 
 cited, 316 11. 
 Langdale, Sir Marmaduke, after- 
 wards Lord, 152 
 Langham, Lady, 184 
 Langhorn, — , executed, 319 n. 
 Laniere, Jerome, artist and 
 
 musician, 169 and n. 
 Lansdowne, Lord, Count of the 
 
 Roman Empire, 362 ; suicide, 
 
 454 . . , 
 
 Lanzi, Loggia de , 59 n. 
 
 Laocoon and his sons, statue of, 
 
 86 and n. 
 
 Lapidaries at Venice, 130 
 
 Lashford, Sir Richard, 273 
 
 Lassels, Richard, account of, 
 
 41 n. ; his Voyage of Italy 
 
 (1670), cited, see notes on pp. 41, 
 
 53, 54. 55, 57. 59, 60, 02 > 6 4j 72, 
 73, 74, 75, 77> 79i 85, 86, 87, 89, 
 
 91, 92, 95, in, 115, 117, 119, 
 124, 125, 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, 
 360 
 
 Last Judgment, by Michael 
 Angelo, 85 
 
 Last Supper, by Leonardo da 
 Vinci, 134 ; in waxwork, 285 
 
 Latimer, Bishop, portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Latin, odd pronunciation of, at 
 Westminster School, 213 ; sen- 
 tences in sermons out of fashion, 
 
 35° 
 
 Laud, William, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, 7, 461 ; his palace 
 attacked, 8 and n. ; gift toi St. 
 John's College, Oxford, 176 ; 
 part of Bodleian Library built 
 by, ib. 
 
 Lauderdale, Duke of, 227 and n., 
 229, 277, 300, 319 ; his house at 
 Ham, 314 and n. 
 
 Laundress, statue of, 114 and n. 
 
 Laura, her tomb at Avignon, 50 
 and n. 
 
 Laurence, St., burial-place, 104 
 
 Lauretto, Cavalier of Rome, 109 
 
 La varan, Madame, singer, 159 
 
 Lavinia, painting by, 87 and n. 
 
 Law, John, duel fought by, 433 
 
 Law against Lovers, a tragi- 
 comedy, 225 and «. 
 
 Lawrence, Dr. Thomas, Master 
 of Balliol College, 6 and n. 
 
 Lawrence, Sir John, his pageant 
 as Lord Mayor, 233 n. 
 
 Lawrence, President of Cromwell's 
 Council, 194 
 
 Lawyers, etc., required to re- 
 nounce James II., 441 
 
 Lazzari (called Bramante), palaces 
 built by, 101, 104 ; church built 
 
 by, 133 
 
 Le Chat, Mons., physician, 142 
 Le Fleming MSS., Historical 
 
 MSS. Commission, cited, 388 n. 
 Le Notre, Andre, 33 n. 
 L'Estrange, Sir Roger, 188, 295 ; 
 
 account of his Observator, 189 
 
 «., 372 and n. 
 Le Vayer, Francois de la Mothe, 
 
 147 «. 
 League and Covenant, abjured, 
 
 222 
 Leake, Dr., his daughter, 305 
 Leaning towers, 56, 58, no, 115 
 Learned Ladies, by George Bal- 
 lard, referred to, 264 ». 
 Leatherhead, 371 ; picture at the 
 
 Swan Inn at, 254 n. 
 Lechmore, Mr. Baron, subscriber 
 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Lee, Lady, and Sir Henry, 232 
 Lee, Mr. Sidney, 113 n. ; Life of 
 
 Lord Herbert of Cherbury, 
 
 cited, Introduction, xv n. 
 Lee, Sir Thomas, 331 
 Lee, William, inventor of machine 
 
 for weaving stockings, 213 n. 
 Lee, or Leigh Place, Sir John 
 
 Evelyn's house at Godstone, 
 
 199 n. 
 
 Lee, Kent, Mr. Bohun's house, 
 
 etc., at, 321 and n., 341, 351 
 Leech, Mr. and Mrs., 172, 199 
 Leeds, Duke of, Commissioner of 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 437 ; his 
 
 subscription, 442 n. 
 Leeds Castle, Kent, prisoners kept 
 
 at, 241 and «., 244, 252, 258 
 Leeward Islands, Sir C. Wheeler's 
 
 indiscreet government at, 282 ; 
 
 threatened by the French, 283 
 Lefevre, Nicasius or Nicolas, 
 
 chemist, 144 and «., 163, 223 
 Legate of Bologna, his palace, 115 
 
 and n. 
 Legend oftJie Pearl, by Evelyn, 
 
 479 
 Legge, Colonel William, 259 and 
 
 «., 346 and n., 381 
 Leghorn, account of, 55, 57 ; con- 
 sulate of, 289 
 Leicester, city of, noticed, 179 
 Leicester, Robert, Dudley (the 
 
 great), Earl of, his vase, 184 ; 
 
 alluded to, 188, 344; portrait, 
 
 264 n. 
 Leicester, Robert Sidney, Earl of, 
 
 house at Penshurst, 169 
 Leicester Fields, 177 «., 334 
 Leicester House, London, noticed, 
 
 288 and n. 
 Leighton, Sir Elisha, project of, 
 
 263 ; account of, ib. n. 
 Leith Hill, Surrey, 2 and n. 
 Lely, Sir Peter, 346 ; portraits by, 
 
 198, 312 n., 363 n. 
 Lennox, Duke of, 218 
 Lennox, portrait of the Duchess 
 
 of, 207 
 Lent, ceremonies in Rome, 105-6 ; 
 
 in Venice, 128 ; preaching in 
 
 London during (1673), 290 
 Leominster, William Fermor, 
 
 Baron, 427 n. 
 Leoncenas, Dr. John Athelsteinus, 
 
 anatomical preparations by, 129 
 
 and n. • 
 
 Leopold, Prince, his collection of 
 
 paintings, 112 
 Lepanto, picture of the battle, 85 , 
 
 and n., 120 and n. 
 Lepers in Holland, notice of, 12 
 
 and n. 
 Lepidus, fountains of, at Rome, 
 
 Lena, procession at, 55 
 Leslie, Lady Jane (Countess of 
 Rothes), her marriage and issue, 
 
 454 «• , , 
 
 Leviathan, Hobbes s, 171 
 Lewen, Samuel, Sheriff of Surrey, 
 
 371 and n. 
 Lewes, Sussex, Evelyn's boyhood 
 
 at, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 
 Lewis, Prince of Baden, 432 
 Lewisham, service in church at, 
 
 166, 170 
 Lewkner, Mr., 20 
 Leyden, account of, 17-18 
 Leyden, Lucas Van, painting by, 
 
 36 ; prints by, 42 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 513 
 
 Liancourt, Count de, his palace, 
 garden, and pictures, 35 and n. 
 
 Liberty and Servitude (1649), a 
 translation by Evelyn, 147 and 
 n. t 476, 479, Introduction, xx 
 
 Libraries: Foreign— Orleans, 44; 
 Rome, 81 ; Vatican, 86 ; Flor- 
 ence, 113 ; Milan, 134. In Eng- 
 land — Oxford, 7, 175 ; Cam- 
 bridge, 183 ; Arundelian, 253 
 and «., 265, 314 ; College of 
 Physicians, 224 ; Sir John Cot- 
 ton's, 262 ; at Euston, 309 ; 
 Lord Bristol's, 311 ; at Cas- 
 siobury, 325 ; Whitehall, 328, 
 335 ; Archbishop Tenison's, the 
 first public one in London, 357 
 and «. ; Lambeth, 265, 399 ; 
 Dr. Cartwright's, 403 ; Queen 
 Mary's, 432 ; Lord Sunder- 
 land's, 436 ; Lord Spencer's, 
 446 ; Dr. John Moore's, ib. 
 
 Libraries, Instructions concern- 
 ing, Gabriel Naudaeus (1661), 
 217 and «., 476, 479 
 
 Licences to leave England, 26 and 
 n., Introduction, xix n. 
 
 Lichfield, Lady, daughter of 
 Charles II., 338 
 
 Licola, in Italy, 97 
 
 Light, contrivance for reflecting, 
 
 35 
 Ligne, Prince de, Ambassador 
 
 from Spain, 206 
 
 Ligon, Captain, 263 and n. 
 
 Lillo, fort of, 20 
 
 Lilly, William, astrologer, 447 ; 
 portrait, 264 ; cited, 19 n. 
 
 Lima, earthquake at (1688), 402 
 
 Limerick, siege of, raised (1690), 
 422 
 
 Lincoln, City and Cathedral of, 
 181, 182 
 
 Lincoln's Inn, revels at (1662), 218 
 and n. ; chapel, 394 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Fields, theatre in, 
 209 and n. ; Mr. Povey's house 
 in, 230 ; Lord Bristol's house 
 in, 277 ; Lord William Russell 
 executed in, 350 
 
 Lincolnshire, fens of, 182 
 
 Lindsey, Robert Bertie, first Earl 
 of, 5 and n. 
 
 Lion, gentleness of one, 173 ; of 
 St. Mark, Venice, 121 ; present 
 of, 337 and n. 
 
 Lionberg, Mons., Swedish Resi- 
 dent, 342 
 
 Lippeus, Nicholas, clockmaker of 
 Basle, 49 n. 
 
 Lisle, Lord (son of Earl of Leices- 
 ter), 188 ; his house at Sheen, 
 
 3 T 3 
 Lisle, Sir George, put to death by 
 
 Ireton, 165 and »., 190 
 Lister, Dr. Martin, his Travels in 
 
 France, cited, 35 «., 41 «. 
 Littler, Rev. Robert, vicar of 
 
 Deptford, 200 and n. 
 Littleton, Sir Charles, his house 
 
 at Sheen, 401 
 
 Littleton, Sir Henry, 401 
 
 Livius, Titus, relics of, 92 ; bust 
 of, 125 
 
 Livorno, 55 
 
 Lloyd, Mr., 289 
 
 Lloyd, Sir Richard, 150, 164 
 
 Lloyd, Dr. William, Bishop of 
 Llandaff, Peterborough, and 
 Norwich, attended the English 
 Court in France, 163 «. ; ser- 
 mons by, 304 and n. ; reflections 
 on a sermon by, 323 ; deprived, 
 424 ; alluded to, 260, 319, 444 
 
 Lloyd, Dr. William, Bishop of St. 
 Asaph, Coventry, and Worces- 
 ter, 326 and n. ; petitioned 
 against reading Declaration of 
 Liberty of Conscience, 402 ; 
 sent to the Tower, ib. ; tried 
 and acquitted, 403 ; his inter- 
 view with Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury (1689), 414, 415 ; his inter- 
 pretation of prophecies, 415, 420, 
 42r, 422 ; sermon (1689) on the 
 deliverance of the Church of 
 England, 417; almoner to Queen 
 Mary, 420 ; alluded to, 327, 
 33°. 334, 409, 416, 418, 420 
 
 Loadstone, a remarkable one, 58 
 
 Locke, John, Secretary to Coun- 
 cil of Trade and Plantations, 
 289 and «., 294 
 
 Lockhart, Lord, Ambassador to 
 France (1673), 294 and «. 
 
 Locks, notices of curious, 177 
 and «. 
 
 Locks on River Brenta in Italy, 
 
 122 
 
 Lodi, notice of, 133 and n. 
 Loevestein, fort of, 13 and «. 
 Loftus, Mr., 325 
 Loggan, R., 233 n. 
 Lombardus, Tullius, sculptor, 
 
 123 
 Lombart, Peter, engraver, 171 
 
 and n. 
 Lomellini, the brothers, 55 «. 
 Londinopolis, Howell (1657), 
 
 quoted, 26 «. 
 LondinumRedivivum, by Evelyn, 
 
 478 
 London, pestilence in (1625 and 
 1636), 3 and »., 6 ; processions 
 of Charles I. (1640), 8; (1642); 
 25 ; tumults, 8 and «., 26, 146, 
 149 ; sickness in, 25 ; great rain 
 in, 194, 204 ; Charles II. at 
 Guildhall, 204 ; entry of Span- 
 ish Ambassador into, 206 ; Lord 
 Mayor's show (1660), 207 ; 
 (1661), by water, 216 ; (1662), 
 224 and n. ; (1664), 233 and n. ; 
 (1684), 360 ; (1686), 304 ; King's 
 progress through before his 
 coronation, 211 ; Scottish Cove- 
 nant burnt by hangman in, 
 214 ; nuisance of smoke in, 
 215, 218 ; fast in (1662), 219 ; 
 Commission for regulating 
 buildings, etc. (1662), 220 ; St. 
 Martin's Lane, improvement 
 
 of, ib. ; present to the Queen of 
 Charles II., ib. ; tumults from 
 Nonconformists, 222 ; water 
 pageant on Thames to conduct 
 the Queen to Whitehall (1662), 
 223 and n. ; entrance of Rus- 
 sian Ambassador, 225 ; plague 
 (1665), 239 and «., 240, 241 ; 
 fast on account of, 239 ; increase 
 of, 240; abates, 241, 243, 252; 
 Corporation welcome Charles 1 1, 
 after the Plague, 243 ; London, 
 frigate, built by Corporation of, 
 245; great fire of 1666, 247-50; 
 alarm in, on landing of the 
 Dutch, 250 ; survey of the ruins 
 and plans for rebuilding, 249, 
 251 ; Evelyn's Londi?ium Redi- 
 vivum, 478 ; fast appointed, 
 251 ; alarm on Dutch entering 
 Thames, 256 ; rebuilding of 
 City begun, 268, 334 and n. ; 
 pictures of judges and others in 
 Guildhall, 292 and n. ; Royal 
 Society return to Gresham 
 College, 294 ; Pope burned in 
 effigy, ib. ; petition of the Cor- 
 poration on the Quo Warranto 
 against their Charter, 347 ; 
 their privileges diminished, ib. ; 
 and judgment entered, 352, 353 ; 
 rejoicings at return of Duke of 
 Monmouth from Holland, 323 ; 
 great frost and fog (1684), 356 ; 
 first public library in, 357 and 
 n. ; proclamation of James II., 
 366; inscription on the Monu- 
 ment altered (1685), 375 and n.\ 
 rejoicings on James II.'s birth- 
 day (1686), 393 ; an Anabaptist 
 Lord Mayor entertainsjames 1 1, 
 and the Papal Nuncio, 399 and 
 n. ; Popish chapel and nunnery 
 demolished (1688), 406, 408 ; 
 house of Spanish Ambassador 
 pillaged, 408 ; rejoicings at 
 accession of William and Mary, 
 412 ; Charter restored, 420 ; 
 great fog (1699), 448 ; robberies 
 and murders in (1699), ib. and 
 n. ; great storm (1703), 457 and 
 n. ; thanksgiving after battle of 
 Blenheim, 458 
 London (1891), Wheatley and 
 Cunningham^ cited, 147 »., 191 
 «., 236 «., 258 «. 
 
 London, 
 cited, 
 451 n. ; 
 
 345 »• 
 London, 
 and n 
 
 Environs of, Lysons', 
 
 185 n., 242 n., 342 «., 
 
 Thome's, cited, 313 «., 
 
 frigate, blown up, 236 
 , 238 ; new frigate 
 launched, 245 
 
 London, George, gardener to Sir 
 Christopher Wren, 445 and u. 
 
 London Institution, House of, in 
 Old Jewry, 288 n. 
 
 London and Westminster, Socie- 
 ties /or Reformation of Man- 
 ners in (17 44), Woodward, cited, 
 448 n. 
 
 2 L 
 
5H 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 London's TriumpJis, etc., John 
 Tatham (1661), cited, 216 ft. 
 
 Londonderry, surprised by James 
 II., 415 n. ; Schomberg sent to 
 its relief, 416 ; relieved, 417 
 and n. 
 
 Longevity, instances of, 181 
 
 Longfellow, cited, 57 n. 
 
 Longford, Lord, Treasurer of Ire- 
 land, 312, 318 
 
 Longinus, St., lance of, 75 ; letter 
 concerning it, 135 ; burial-place, 
 
 8 3 
 Longueville, Duke of, 276 
 
 Loosduinen, 18 
 
 Lords, House of, 300 ; divorce of 
 Lord Roos, 269 and n. ; speech 
 of James II. on his accession, 
 
 373. 
 
 Lorraine, Louise de, 48 n. 
 
 Lort, Mr., at Lincoln's Inn (1662), 
 218 
 
 Lothair (Lord Beaconsfield),cited, 
 Introduction, xxxvii 
 
 Lothian, Lord, alluded to, 190, 
 206 
 
 Lottery, in 1664, 230 ; (1693), 432 ; 
 State lottery (1694), 434, 435 
 and n. ; (1699), 44 6 > frequency 
 of lotteries (1696), 441; suppres- 
 sion of (1699), 446 
 
 Loudun, Nuns of, impostures 
 practised by, 272 
 
 Louis XII., King of France, 
 equestrian statue of, at Blois, 
 
 44 
 Louis XIII., statue of, 31 and «. ; 
 
 his sepulchre, 27 
 
 Louis XIV., performs in a masque 
 (1651), 158 ; procession to Par- 
 liament, 160 ; audience of Sir 
 Richard Browne with, 161 ; his 
 ambitious career, 350, 352, 430 ; 
 the King and Dauphin alluded 
 to, 151, 392, 412 ; persecution 
 of Protestants, 385, 390, 400, 
 401 ; excommunicated, 416 
 
 Louvre, at Paris, described, 32 ; 
 referred to, 151 
 
 Love, Captain, duel fought by, 
 
 375 . 
 
 Love and Honour, a tragi-comedy, 
 
 216 and n. 
 Love in a Tu'>, a play, 230 and n. 
 Love Triumphant, by Dryden, 
 
 432 and n. 
 Low Church Party, use of expres- 
 sion (1705), 459 
 Lower, Dr., physician, 435 
 Lowman, Mr., of the Marshalsea, 
 
 240 
 Lowndes, Mr., Secretary to the 
 
 Treasury, 437, 442 
 Lowther, Sir John, 311 and «., 
 
 339 ; subscription to Greenwich 
 
 Hospital, 442 n. 
 Lovola, Ignatius, his burial-place, 
 
 6 7. 
 Lubicer, his skill on the violin, 189 
 
 Lucas, Sir Charles, put to death 
 
 by Ireton, 165 and n., 190 
 
 Lucas, Lord, 255 
 
 Lucas, Lord - Lieutenant of the 
 Tower, 418, 423 
 
 Lucas, Rev. Mr., 437 
 
 Lucca, city of, account of, etc., 
 in, 142 
 
 Lucie, Sir William, 201 and n. 
 
 Lucretia, Signora, a Greek lady, 
 149 
 
 Lucretius Carus de Rerum 
 Natura, translated by Evelyn 
 into English verse, 190 and «., 
 476, 479, Introduction, xxii 
 and n. ; his remarks upon the 
 printing, etc., 190 n. 
 
 Lucrine, Lake of, 96 
 
 Ludgate, prisoners at, 294 
 
 Ludovicus, works of, 416 
 
 Ludovisi, Prince, his villa at 
 Rome, 68 and n. 
 
 Luke, St., pictures said to be 
 painted by, 59, 66, 70, 71 and 
 «., 77 ; relics of, 83, 120, 123 
 
 Lumley, family of, 199 
 
 Lumley, Lord, 242, 375 and n., 
 
 397 
 Luna and Lunans, 55 
 Lutes made at Bologna, 116 
 Lutterel, Henry, painting by, 435 ; 
 
 notice of, id. n. 
 Luxembourg, palace and gardens, 
 
 40-41 and n. \ surrender of, to 
 
 the French, 358, 359, 397 and ». 
 Lyme, Dorset, 374 and n. 
 Lynch, Sir Thomas, Governor of 
 
 Jamaica, 276 and n., 289, 303 
 Lynn Regis, notice of, 310 
 Lyons, city of, 49, 144 
 Lyra, Don Emmanuel de, 312, 
 
 318 and 71. 
 Lysdun, church at, 18 
 Lysons' Enviro?ts of London, 
 
 cited, 185 n., 242 «., 342 n., 446 
 
 «., 451 n. ; Magna Britannia, 
 
 cited, 271 n. 
 Lytcott, Mr., 388 
 Lyttelton, Sir Thomas, Speaker, 
 
 452 and n. 
 
 Macarino, inlaid pavement by, no 
 Macaulay, Lord, his History of 
 
 Engla?id referred to, 205 n., 
 
 220 n. , 305 n. 
 Macclesfield, Lord, his death, 
 
 43 2 
 Mackenzie, Sir George, his Essay 
 
 On Solitude answered by Evelyn , 
 
 254 and n., 420 n., 474; Lord 
 
 Advocate of Scotland, 409, 410 ; 
 
 particulars respecting Scotland 
 
 by, 420 
 Mackworth, Sir Humphrey, 367 n. 
 Macinichael, Mr. J. Holden, his 
 
 Memoirs of a Sedan Chair, 
 
 cited, 98 n. 
 Mad Margery, the great gun at 
 
 Ghent, 24 n. 
 Maddox, Mr., Evelyn's letter to, 
 
 cited, Introduction, xviii 
 Madonna delle Grazie, monastery 
 
 of, Milan, 134 
 
 Madrid, a palace of the French 
 
 King, 35 and »., 153 
 Maestricht, siege of, represented 
 
 at Windsor, 296 
 Magdalen College and Chapel, 
 
 Oxford, 176, 423; ejected Fellows 
 
 restored, 405 
 Magdalen of Austria, 112 and n. 
 Magdalene College, Cambridge, 
 
 456 n. 
 Maggiore, Lake, 136 
 Magi, tomb of the, at Milan, 134 
 
 and n. 
 Magna Britannia (1810), Lyson, 
 
 cited, 271 n. 
 Magniani, Marquis, 116 
 Magnin, M. Charles, 35 n. 
 Mahomet, design of his sepulchre, 
 
 86 
 Maiden Queen, by Dryden, 254 n. 
 Maids of Honour, office of Mother 
 
 of, 220, 305 
 Maimburg, Father, his History 
 
 of Calvinism, 341 
 Maison, President, his palace near 
 
 Paris, 151 
 Maison Rouge, near Paris, 37 
 Majolus, Simon, 95 
 Makins, Mrs. Bathsua, school of, 
 
 149 u. 
 Mai Albergo, an inn, 116 
 Malamocco, notice of, 117 
 Mailing, South, church conse- 
 crated, 3 ; impropriation sold, 
 
 146 
 Mallory, Thomas, 194 and «., 200 
 Malone's Works of Reynolds, 
 
 1798, cited, 148 n. 
 Malpighi, Marcellus, presents a 
 
 treatise to the Royal Society, 
 
 265 ; notice of, ib. w. 
 Malta, earthquake at, 430 ; Grand 
 
 Master of, 346 
 Malvern Hills, view from, 179 
 Man, The Dignity of, etc., by 
 
 Evelyn, 476 
 Manchester, Edward Montague, 
 
 Earl of, Lord Chamberlain, 208, 
 
 233 
 Mancini, Hortense. See Mazann, 
 
 Duchess. 
 Mancini, Marie, 447 and n. 
 Mancini, Signor, of Rome, ior 
 Mander, Dr. Roger, Master of 
 
 Balliol College, 445 and «., 452 
 Mann, Mr., Recorder of Ipswich, 
 
 308 
 Manna, at Naples, 98 
 Manners, general depravity of 
 
 (1690), 419; (1699), 448; Society 
 
 for Reformation of (1699), ib. «., 
 
 449 and n. 
 Manning and Bray's Surrey (1S1 4), 
 
 cited, 232 n., 336 «., 362 n., 400 
 
 «., 417 «., 43° «• . . 
 Mantegna, Andrea, paintings by, 
 
 36, 221 
 Manton, Dr. Thomas, sermon by, 
 
 198 and n. 
 Mantua, Garden of, 126 ; Duke of, 
 
 221 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 515 
 
 Manufactures, notices of, 46, 126, 
 
 132, 167, 291, 306 and «., 313 
 
 and n. 
 Manuscripts in the Bodleian, 175 
 Manuscripts, Essay on, by Evelyn, 
 
 476 and n. 
 Maps, huge volume of, 207 
 Marais du Temple, Paris, 31 
 Marble, magazine for, at Lambeth, 
 
 3°6 
 Marcellino, relic of, 101 
 Marcello, Dr., of Verona, 132 
 Marcellus, Theatre of, Rome, 66 
 Marchand, Florian, the water- 
 
 spouter, 157 and n. 
 Marchmont, Earl of (1698),* 444 n. 
 Marcus Aurelius, statue of, 65, 
 
 68 ; reliefs relating to, ib. and «. 
 Marden, Surrey, Sir Robert 
 
 Clayton's seat at, 310 and n., 451 
 Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., 
 
 328 
 Margate, notice of, 286 
 Marionettes, 35 and n. } 258 and n. 
 Marius, Caius, villa of, 97 ; victory 
 
 °f,. i3i> i3 2 . 
 Marius, trophies of, 104 
 Mark, St., relic of, 101 ; Gospel 
 
 of, 120 
 Markets, notices of, 15, 22, 24, 
 
 183 
 
 Marks, Mr. Alfred, his Who killed 
 Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, 
 cited, 316 n. 
 
 Marlborough, John Churchill, Lord 
 (afterwards Duke), at Sedge- 
 moor, 375 n. ; dismissed from 
 office (1692), 427and«.; deserted 
 James II., ib. ; Master of 
 Ordnance (1700), 452 ; his hon- 
 ours and estate, 455 ; marriage 
 of his daughters, 444, 456 ; 
 death of his son, 456 ; his atten- 
 tion to Evelyn, 458 ; his brother 
 referred to, 459 
 
 Marlborough, Sarah Jennings, 
 Duchess of, 427, 458 
 
 Marlborough, town of, 174 
 
 Marmora Arundelliana (1628), 
 126 n. 
 
 Marmora Oxonietisia ex Anin- 
 dellianis (1676), 126 «, 304 
 
 Marmorata, Rome, 100 
 
 Marmou tiers, Abbey of, 46 and n. 
 
 Marne, famous bridge over, 36 
 
 Marriage of a Jew at Venice, 129 
 
 Marriages, numerous, by one per- 
 son, 17 ; tax on, 438 
 
 Mars' Field, Geneva, 143 
 
 Marseilles, account of, 51; slaves 
 there, ib. 
 
 Marsh, Francis and Mary, 324 
 and n. 
 
 Marshall, William, portrait by, 
 149 n. ; book of flowers painted 
 
 by, 342 m 
 
 Marshal, William, trial of (1679), 
 
 320 and n. 
 Marshalsea, London, 376 
 Marsham, Sir John, 20c and n. 
 Marston Moor, battle of, 181 
 
 Marteilhe, Jean, Memoirs (1757), 
 384 n. 
 
 Martial, cited, 72 «., 97 and «., 411 
 
 Martigny, Switzerland, 140 
 
 Martin, Mr., 454 
 
 Martin, Mrs. Wykeham, 241 n. 
 
 Martin, St., relics, 45 
 
 Marvel/, Andrew, Birrell (1905), 
 cited, 214 «., 269 «. ; a poem by, 
 cited, 256 ti. 
 
 Mary, a yacht, 303 
 
 Mary of Modena (Princess Mary 
 Beatrice D'Este), Duchess of 
 York, 294 and «. ; references to, 
 as Queen, 366, 367, 373, 383, 
 
 387, 399. 4°°, 403, 4°4, 432 ; 
 coronation of, 372 ; her crown, 
 373 ; loss at cards, 392 ; her 
 apartments, 395 ; her flight, 408 
 and «., James II.'s letter re- 
 specting, 42S 
 
 Mary, daughter of Charles I., 274 
 
 Mary. See Orange, Princess of 
 
 Mary, daughter of James II., 305 
 
 Mary, Queen (consort of William 
 III.), married, 310 and n.; right 
 of succession, 410 ; declared to 
 be Queen, 412 ; proclaimed, 412 ; 
 her conduct on her accession to 
 the Crown, ib. ; coronation of, 
 414 ; coolness with Princess 
 Anne, 427 ; approves pardon of 
 witches in New England, 430 n. ; 
 her cabinets and collection of 
 china, 431 ; her death and 
 funeral, 436 and n. ; her char- 
 acter, ib. ; alluded to, 305, 311, 
 407, 420, 4=8, 429, 433 
 
 Mary, Queen of Scots, her burial- 
 place, 182 and n. ; alluded to, 
 407 
 
 Mary Magdalen, her place of 
 penance, 52 ; relics of, 77, 120 
 
 Maseres, Baron, tracts respecting 
 the Civil War, 469 and n. 
 
 Mason, Dr., his house, 170 
 
 Mason, Rev. John, his deluded 
 followers, 434 and n. 
 
 Masques, at Court in France, 153, 
 158 ; at Lincoln's Inn, 218 and 
 n. ; at Charles II.'s Court, 235, 
 254 ; between the acts of plays, 
 261 and n. 
 
 Masque 0/ Pandora, by Long- 
 fellow, cited, 57 «. 
 
 Massachusetts, North America, 
 278 
 
 Massey, Sir Edward, Governor of 
 Jamaica, 206 
 
 Massey, William, his Origin and 
 Progress of Letters, referred to, 
 176 71. 
 
 Mastiff dogs draw pedlars' carts 
 in Holland, 23 
 
 Matbaei, Horti, at Rome, 100 
 
 Matilda, Queen, bridge at Rouen 
 built by (1167), 38 and n. 
 
 Matthew, St., relics of, 77 
 
 Matthews, — , 375 
 
 Matthias, Emperor, 3 and n. 
 
 Matthias, St., relics, 71 
 
 Maurice, Prince, 12 
 Mausoleum, Augusti, at Rome, 
 
 j 03 
 Maximus, St., burial-place, 123 
 Maxwell, Mr., 313 
 May Hugh, architect, 232 and «., 
 
 275, 288, 324, 342 and n. ; a 
 
 Commissioner for repair of old 
 
 St. Paul's, 247 
 May 29th, festival on, 214 and n. 
 Maynard, Serjeant, Sir John, 331 
 
 and n. 
 Maynard, Lord, Comptroller of 
 
 Household, 367 
 Mazarin, Cardinal Julius, pro- 
 scribed; 157 ; death, 210 and?:. ; 
 
 alluded to, 34 «., 171 
 Mazarin, Duchess, mistress of 
 
 Charles II., 305 and «., 362, 
 
 366 ; her death, 446 and «. ; 
 
 character of, 447 
 Mazotti, an artist in pietra- 
 
 commessa, 113 
 Meadows, Sir Philip, his son 
 
 married, 443 
 Meath, Bishop of (1656), poverty 
 
 of, 189 
 Meaux, Bishop of, 395 
 Mechanical Trades, Circle of, by 
 
 Evelyn, 20S 
 Medals, ancient, observations on 
 
 Roman, 109, 199 and n. ; 
 
 authors on, 303 ; coronation 
 
 medal of William and Mary, 
 
 414 ; various collections noticed, 
 
 68, 99, 107, 127, 360, 420 
 Medals, Discourse of, by Evelyn, 
 
 7 71., 443 and 71., 476, 480 
 Mede (or Mead), Joseph, on 
 
 prophecy, 415 and n., 421 
 Medici, Cardinal, Ambassador, 
 
 74, 107 ; fireworks at his palace, 
 
 107 
 Medici, Cosmo I. de, Duke, his 
 
 statue of justice, 57, 113 ; statue 
 
 of. 59 
 Medici, Cosmo II. de, Palace of 
 
 Pitti, 57 ; statue of, 112 
 Medici, Pietro and John di, 113 
 Medicis, Palace of, at Rome, 67, 
 
 82 
 Medicis, Catherine de, 45 «., 48 
 Medicis, Marie de, Queen-M other, 
 
 portrait, 14 ; her reception in 
 
 Holland, 18 and «., 19 ». ; 
 
 notices of, 40 and «., 46, 151, 
 
 161 
 Mediterranean, Evelyn's voyage 
 
 in the (1644), 52-3 
 Med way, Prospect of, by Evelyn, 
 
 480 n. 
 Meeres, Sir Thomas, 305, 319 
 Meggot, Dr., Dean of Winchester, 
 
 247 and 7i. , 379 ; sermons by, 
 
 247, 357. 392, 395 
 Melfort, John Drummond, Earl 
 
 of, his pictures sold, 431 
 Mell, Davis or Davie, musician, 
 
 169 and 71., 189 
 Melos, Don Francisco de, 255, 
 
 289 
 
5i6 
 
 THE DIAR V OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Memoirs of Sir John Reresby, 
 
 cited. See Reresby 
 Memoirs of Lady Anne Fanshawe 
 
 (1829), cited, 162 n. 
 Memoirs of Jean Marteilhe of 
 
 Bergerac, 384 n. 
 Menageries, notices of, 23, 33, 35, 
 
 " 59. . 
 
 Mendicants, at Bologna, 116 
 
 Mercato di Saboto, ruins of, 97 
 .-« Mercator, Nicholas, mathema- 
 tician, 247 
 
 Mercers' Company (London), 222 ; 
 Italian sermon at their chapel, 
 147 and n. ; chapel of, burned, 
 249 
 
 Merceria at Venice, 118 
 
 Mercure, Mons., teacher of the 
 lute, 144 
 
 Mercury, Transit of (1664), 232 
 
 Merey, M., of St. Gatien, 46 
 
 Mergozzo, 137 
 
 Merick, Sir William, 228 
 
 Merlin, a yacht, 283 
 
 Merret, Dr. Christopher, 224 
 and n. 
 
 Merrick, Mr., of Parson's Green, 
 209 «. 
 
 Merton College, election to the 
 Wardenship of (1661), 209 
 
 Messary, Mons., Judge Advocate 
 in Jersey, 205 
 
 Meta-Sudante, ruins of, 72 
 
 Metellus, sepulchre of, Rome, 100 
 
 Meteor, one in 1643, 25 ; (1680), 
 
 333 
 Meverall, Dr., 5 and n. 
 
 Mews, Dr. Peter, of St. John's 
 
 College, Oxford, 268 and n. 
 Mezzo tinlo, engraving process 
 
 shown to Evelyn, 209, 210 
 Michael Angelo (Buonarrotti), 
 
 architecture of, 63, 66, 69, 70, 
 
 71 ; paintings by, 35, 58 
 Michael, Mr., of Houghton, 7 
 Michell, Robert, estate at North 
 
 Stoke sold to, 452 
 Mickleham, notice of, 186 
 Micro-cosmographie, etc., Earle's 
 
 (1628), 225 n. 
 Middleton, General, Lord, 256 
 
 and #., 257, 360, 397 
 Middleton, Colonel Thomas, 278 
 Middleton, Dr., Italian sermon 
 
 by> *47 . . 
 Milan, description of, 133, 135 ; 
 
 cathedral, 133 ; Governor's 
 
 Palace, id. ; Church of the 
 
 Jesuits and St. Celso, ib. ', 
 
 hospital, colleges, etc., 134; 
 
 Ambrosian Library, ib. ; Church 
 
 of St. Ambrose, 135 ; citadel, 
 
 etc., ib. ; Signor Septalla's 
 
 curiosities, ib. ; civilities of a 
 
 Scots colonel, ib. 
 
 Millennium, delusion respecting, 
 434 and n. 
 
 Miller, Rev. Mr., vicar of Effing- 
 ham, 430 «. 
 
 Miller's Herbal (1722), cited, 
 
 339 «• 
 
 Millington, Sir Thomas, 345 
 and 11. 
 
 Milton, John, allusions to, Intro- 
 duction, xiii «., 101 n., 229, 391 
 
 Milton, Sir Christopher, brother 
 of John, 391 and n. 
 
 Minerva, Church of the, at Rome, 
 
 Mingrelia, women of, 328 
 
 Minn, George and Elizabeth, 146 
 and «. 
 
 Mint, Committee for regulating 
 the, 228, 229, 243 
 
 Mint, at Venice, 121 
 
 Miracles, James II. 's views, 379; 
 instances of, ib. 
 
 Mirandola, John Picus, 268, 319 
 
 Misenus, ruins of, 97 
 
 Miss, courtesans so called, 218, 
 252, 280, 351 
 
 Misson, M. Maximilien, his 
 Nouveau Voyage d'ltalie, 93 n. , 
 137 n. 
 
 Mocenigo, a noble Venetian 
 family, 386 
 
 Mochi, Fra., statue by, 75 and n. 
 
 Models, notices of various, 17, 108 
 
 Modena, Duchess of, 294 
 
 Modyford, Sir Thomas, Governor 
 of Jamaica, 277 and »., 278, 296 
 
 Mohun, Charles, Lord, tried for 
 murder and acquitted, 430 and n. j 
 
 Mole and Pharos at Genoa, 53 
 and «., 55 ; at Leghorn, 57 ; at 
 Naples, 92 
 
 Mole, River, in Surrey, 142 and n. 
 
 Molina, Conde de, Spanish Am- 
 bassador, 239 
 
 Molino, Signor, Doge of Venice, 
 128 
 
 Mollen, famous for his lutes, 116 
 
 Monaco, 52 
 
 Monaldeschi, Marquis, assassina- 
 tion of, 330 and n. 
 
 Monasteries, 307, 313. See Con- 
 vents 
 
 Monasticon, Sir William Dug- 
 dale's, 373 
 
 Monck, George, Duke of Albe- 
 marle, 202 ; his march from 
 Scotland, 202 ; breaks down 
 the gates of the city, 203 ; 
 marches to Whitehall, ib., and 
 convenes the old Parliament, ib. 
 and n. ; allusions to his con- 
 duct, 244. See Albemarle 
 
 Monck, Dr. Nicholas, Bishop of 
 Hereford, consecration of, 208 ; 
 funeral of, 218 and n. 
 
 Monconys, Mons. Balthasar de, 
 
 271 and n. 
 Mondragone, Palace of, 108 
 Money, scarcity of, in England in 
 
 1696, 439, 441, 442 and n. 
 Monkeys, feats of, at Southwark 
 
 Fair, 206 
 Monmouth, James Scott, Duke 
 of, 236, 273, 290, 296, 306, 321, 
 336. 364 ; his return from Hol- 
 land, and popularity, 323 and 
 ft. ; proclamation against, 348 ; 
 
 surrenders himself, 354 ; par- 
 doned, and banished Whitehall, 
 355 ; lands in England and sets 
 up his standard as King, 374 
 and n. ; proclaimed traitor, 375 ; 
 defeated and taken prisoner, 
 ib. ; committed to the Tower 
 and executed, 376 ; character, 
 376, 377 and n. ; his mother, 
 151 and n., 306 «., 377 and n. ; 
 seen headless by a person pos- 
 sessing the power of second 
 sight, 379 
 
 Monmouth, Anne Scott, Duchess 
 of, 290 and n. , 305, 337 and »., 
 376, 3U8 ; sermon by her chap- 
 lain, 418 
 
 Monmouth, Earl of, 437 
 
 Mons Quirinalis, Rome, 68 
 
 Montagu, Ralph, Duke of, his 
 palace at Bloomsbury, 304 
 and n. ; (now the British 
 Museum), ib. ; described, 353 
 and n. ; burned, 304 n., 388 
 
 Montagu, Lady Elizabeth, wife 
 of above, 353 and n. 
 
 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 
 398 and n. 
 
 Montagu, Lord, trial (1693-1696). 
 concerning estate left by Duke 
 of Albemarle, 432, 441, 454 ; 
 subscription to Greenwich 
 Hospital, 442 n. 
 
 Montagu, Francis Browne, Vis- 
 count, 202 and «., 240 
 
 Montagu, Sir William, his son 
 married to Mary Evelyn of 
 Woodcote, 270 ; her death, 400 
 
 Montagu, Mr., Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer, 442 n. 
 
 Montagu House, Bloomsbury, 
 304 and n., 322, 353 ; burned, 
 388 
 
 Montaigne, cited, 270 n. 
 
 Montalbano, Dr., discoverer of 
 phosphorus, 115 
 
 Montalcino, noticed, 61 
 
 Mont- Alto's villa, Rome, 70 
 
 Mont Louis, dwellings of its in- 
 habitants, 45 
 
 Mont Pieta, 101 ; in Padua, 125 
 
 Monte Amiata, 61 ^ 
 
 Monte Cavallo, at Rome, 68-9, « 
 82 
 
 Monte Feltre, Count and Coun- 
 tess, 351 
 
 Monte Mantumiato, 61 
 
 Monte Pientio, or Mantumiato, 61 
 
 Montefiascone, notice of, 62 and ». 
 
 Montespan, Mme. de, 49 n. 
 
 Montford, Lord, 271 n. 
 
 Montgomeryshire, fiery exhalation 
 in (1694), 433 
 
 Montreuil, description of, 27 
 
 Montrose, James Graham, Mar- 
 quis of, alluded to, 160 
 
 Monument (London), building of, 
 334 ' K words on, against the 
 Papists erased, 375 and «. 
 
 Moody, Rev. Mr., recommended 
 for a living, 194 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 517 
 
 Moon, on the nature of its light, 
 
 2t 
 
 Moore, Dr. John, Bishop of Nor- 
 wich, 424 «. ; his library, 446 
 and n. 
 
 Moorfields, its manufactory of 
 camlets, 167 
 
 Mordaunt, Lady, her charity, etc., 
 303, 312 ; allusions to, 304, 399 ; 
 Evelyn her trustee and executor, 
 
 3 2 °> 3 2 3> 325 
 Mordaunt, Lady, house at Ash- 
 stead, 241 and «. 
 Mordaunt, Lady Mary, 307 
 Mordaunt, John, Viscount, 193 
 and «., 203, 208, 209, 210, 217, 
 227 ; trial and acquittal, 193 «., 
 198 ; case between him and 
 Captain Taylor, 252-3 and n. ; 
 Evelyn his trustee, 307 ; notice 
 of, 193 n. , 304 «. 
 More, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 148 
 Morgan, Colonel, afterwards Sir 
 Henry, buccaneering exploits 
 at Panama, 278 and «., 296 
 Morgan, Mr., botanist, 198 
 Morghen, Raphael, fine engraving 
 
 *>¥> 134 «■ 
 Morice, Mr. Secretary, 215, 229, 
 
 239, 254 ; his library, 229, 254 
 Monce, Mons., professor at 
 
 Geneva, 143 
 Morine, Mons., his garden and 
 
 collection of insects, etc., 42, 
 
 158 
 
 Morison, Dr. Robert, Professor of 
 Botany, 300 and n. 
 
 Morland, Sir Samuel, his inven- 
 tions, 257, 280, 308, 346 ; account 
 of him and his father, 335 11. ; 
 his house at Lambeth, 335 
 and n. ; inventions to assist his 
 blindness, etc., 438 ; buries his 
 music books, ib. 
 
 Morley, Agnes, school founded 
 
 by, 4 
 Morley, Colonel Herbert, a friend 
 of Evelyn, and one of the 
 Council of State (1652), 167 
 and n., ib., 186 ; Evelyn attempts 
 to bring him over to the King, 
 
 202 and n. ; the colonel hesi- 
 tates, ib. *, procures pardon, 
 
 203 ; Evelyn's negotiations with 
 him, 466 
 
 Morley, Dr. George (Bishop of 
 Winchester), 152 and «., 162 «., 
 228, 303, 341 ; coronation sermon 
 by, 212 and n. ; letter of Evelyn 
 to, on the Duchess of York's 
 apostasy, 341 
 
 Morocco Ambassador, named 
 Hamet (1682), 337 and n. ; en- 
 tertainment given to, 338 ;^ ad- 
 mitted of the Royal Society, 
 341 ; Lord Howard made Am- 
 bassador to, 260, 265 
 
 Morosini, Ambassador frornVen ice 
 to France, 161 
 
 Morris, Mr., scrivener, 322 
 
 Morris, Sir Robert, 231 
 
 Morton, Countess, allusions to, 
 
 *5*» i57 
 
 Morus, Mons., a French preacher, 
 
 219 and n. 
 
 Mosaics, 75, 76, 80, 82, 87, 104 ; 
 in wood, 1x5 and «. ; at St. 
 Mark's, Venice, 119. SeePietra- 
 commessa 
 
 Moscow burnt (1699), 447 
 
 Moses, statue of, at Rome, 80 
 
 Moulins, brief account of, 48 
 
 Moulins, Mons. j surgeon, 148 
 
 Mountains, travelling in the, 137-9 
 
 Mountebanks at Rome, 101, 109 ; 
 at Venice, 128 
 
 Mountford, William, murder of, 
 430 and n. 
 
 Mouse (Horace), 347 and n. 
 
 Mowbray, Lord (son of Earl of 
 Arundel), 127 and «. 
 
 Muccinigo, Signor, Venetian Am- 
 bassador, entertained by Eve- 
 lyn (1668), 263 ; his entry into 
 London, ib. ; alluded to, 274 
 
 Mulberry Garden, 173 and n. 
 
 Mulgrave, John Sheffield, Earl of, 
 288 and «., 321, 431, 432 
 
 Mummies, fragments of, given to 
 Evelyn, 127 
 
 Mundanus, Theodore, philoso- 
 pher's elixir projected by, 459 
 and 11. 
 
 Mundus Muliebris (1690), a poem 
 by Mary Evelyn, 368 «., 369 
 and «., 480; its "Preface' 
 quoted, Introduction, xxxiii n. 
 
 Murano, near Venice, glass manu- 
 factory at, 126, 291 
 
 Murillo, painting by, 431 
 
 Muro Torto at Rome, 103 
 
 Murray, Sir Robert, 209 and «., 
 213, 223, 229, 235, 271, 291 
 and «., 477 and «. 
 
 Murray's Handbooks cited — Bel- 
 gium, 21 «. ; Northern Italy, 
 119 n. ; Surrey, 142 «., 259 n. ; 
 Suffolk, 271 «., 278 n. , 282 «. 
 
 Muscatello, wine, 61 
 
 Muschamp, Mr., 171 
 
 Muscovy Ambassador, audience 
 of (1662), 225, 226; (1681), 337 
 
 Muscovy, Czar of, his conduct to 
 the English Ambassador, 226 n. ; 
 lives at Sayes Court, 444 and «., 
 445 and «. ; his stay in Dept- 
 ford, 445 n. 
 
 Musgrave, Sir Philip, 152 
 
 Music, singing, etc., particulars 
 relating to, 16, 17, 68, 225, 323, 
 356, 362; song -books buried, 
 
 43?-9 . 
 
 Musical instrument, a new inven- 
 tion, 231 
 
 Mustapha, a tragedy by Earl of 
 Orrery, 237 and n., 252 and «. 
 
 Mutiano, Girolamo, painting by, 
 
 67 
 Myddelton, Sir Hugh, his New 
 
 River undertaking, 391 and n. 
 Myddleton, Mrs., a famous beauty, 
 
 350 and n. 
 
 Naked Truth, a pamphlet, 303 
 Nantes, revocation of Edict of, 
 
 384 and n. See Huguenots 
 Nanteiiil, Robert, his portrait of 
 
 the Evelyn family, 154 and «. ; 
 
 Introduction, xx . 
 Naples, inscription over the gate^ 
 
 90 ; account of the city, 91,' 98 ; 
 
 Castle of St. Elmo, etc., 91 ; the 
 
 Mole, 92 ; Cathedral and 
 
 churches, ib. ; Monastery of the 
 
 Carthusians, ib. ; Museums, 
 
 92-3 ; Carnival, 93 ; Vesuvius, 
 
 ib. , 440 ; Pausilippus, 94 ; Lago 
 
 d'Agnano, 94 ; Grotto del Cane, 
 
 ib. ; Court of Vulcan, 95 ; 
 
 Puteoli, etc., 96 ; Lake Avernus 
 
 and cave, ib. ; Cumae, 97 ; Baia N 
 
 ib. ; Misenus, ib. ; Elysian* 
 
 Fields, ib. ; Arsenal, 98 ; 
 
 manners of the people, ib. ; 
 
 guillotine at, no; etching of, 
 
 480 
 Nassau, Prince William of, and 
 
 his son Maurice, monuments, 
 
 14 and n. 
 Naudffius, Gabriel, Instructions 
 
 concerning a Library, trans- 
 lated by Evelyn, 217, 476, 479 ; 
 
 noticed, 217 «. 
 Navalia, Pepys' History of the 
 
 Navy, 456 and n. 
 Navigation arid Commerce, by 
 
 Evelyn, 295 and «., 480. See 
 
 Dutch War 
 Navy, Memoires relating to the 
 
 State of the Royal (1690), 
 
 Pepys, 456 and n. 
 Neale, Mr., lotteries set up by, 
 
 432 ; built the Seven Dials, 435 
 
 and «. 
 Neapolitano, Carlo, painter, 65 
 
 and 71., 72 
 Needham, Jane. See Myddleton, 
 
 Mrs. 
 Needham, Dr. Jasper, 192 and n., 
 
 203 ; funeral and eulogy, 322 
 Needham, Marchamont, Tract by 
 
 (1660), 203 n. 
 Needham, Sir Robert, and Lady, 
 
 195, 198, 228, 350 
 Needlework, landscape of, 207 
 Negroes, to be baptized, 380 ; 
 
 conspiracy amongst, in Barba- 
 
 does (1692), 430 
 Negros, Hieronymo del, Palace at 
 
 Genoa, 53 
 Neile, Sir Paul, 189 and «., 
 
 213 
 Neptune, Temple of, 96 ; Rock 
 
 of, 142 
 Neptune, launch of, 345 
 Nerius, Philippus, 67 
 Nero, Emperor of Rome, vestiges 
 
 of, 79) 83, 97 ; sepulchre, 103 
 Nerves, Veins, etc., Tables of, 
 
 120 and n. 
 Nesis, Island of, 98 
 Netherlands. See Holland 
 Netherlands, Journal of a Tour 
 
 in, Southey, cited, 21 n. 
 
S i8 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Neve, La (Cornelius Neve?), 
 painter, 147 and n. 
 
 Nevers, notice of, 42, 144 
 
 New Batavia, earthquake, 447 
 
 New Buildings, Streets, etc., 
 Commission for, 200, 220, 222 
 
 New College, Oxford, chapel, 176 
 
 New England, witches in, 430 
 and n. 
 
 New Hall (Duke of Buckingham's 
 seat), 191 and n. 
 
 New Palace Yard, London, affray 
 at, 146 
 
 New River, Sir Hugh Myddelton's 
 water scheme, 391 and n. 
 
 New York, 294, 455 
 
 Newark-on-Trent, 180 
 
 Newburgh, Lord, 361 
 
 Newcastle, Marquis of, seat at 
 Welbeck, 180 
 
 Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, 
 visited by Evelyn, 254 and n. , 
 255 ; fanciful dress of the 
 Duchess, ib., 255 and n. ; visits 
 the Royal Society, ib. and n. ; 
 marriage of his daughter, 436 
 
 Newgate Prison, 345 
 
 Newmarket, Charles II. 's house 
 at, 271 and «. ; fire at, 352 and 
 n. ; collection for rebuilding 
 after fire, ib. ; stables and heath, 
 271 ; Court at, and races (1671), 
 
 279, 280; revellings, etc., at, 
 
 280, 282 
 Newport, Andrew, 323 
 Newport, Montjoy Blount, Earl 
 
 of, protests against Peers in 
 
 Parliament under age, 374 ; 
 
 pictures in his possession, 362 
 
 and n. ; Treasurer of the House- 
 hold (1685), 367 ; (1689), 413 ; 
 
 alluded to, 318, 379 
 Newport, Lady, 318 
 Newstead Abbey, notice of, 180 
 
 and n. 
 Newton, Mr., married Evelyn's 
 
 grandmother, 4 ; her death, 157 
 Newton, Sir Adam, monument of, 
 
 167 and n. 
 Newton, Sir Henry, allusions to, 
 
 187, 192 ; his house at Charlton, 
 
 167 and «., 171, 231 
 Nice, in Savoy, notice of, 52 
 Nicholai, of Rome, bass singer, 
 
 109 
 Nicholao, Signor, excellence on 
 
 the violin, 297, 323 
 Nicholao del Abati, painting by, 
 
 on a stone, 36 
 Nicholas, Sir Edward, Secretary 
 
 of State, alluded to, 43 n., 150, 
 
 240 
 Nicholas, Friar, of Paris, chemist, 
 
 157 and n. 
 Nicholas, Mr. John, son of 
 
 Secretary Nicholas, 43, 48 
 Nicholas, Penelope, death of, 
 
 457 »■ 
 
 Nicholls, Colonel, 278 
 Nicholson, Dr. William, Bishop 
 of Gloucester, 218 
 
 Niclaes, Henrick, founder of the 
 Family of Love, 399 n. 
 
 Nicolson, Dr. William, Bishop of 
 Carlisle, 455 and ». 
 
 Niers, river, 11 «., 12 n. 
 
 Nieuport, Dutch Ambassador, 
 notices of, 190, 192, 195, 200, 
 201, 204, 234, 237, 238; his 
 account of the Duch East India 
 Company, 192 ; policy of his 
 nation, 202 
 
 Nimeguen, Treaty of (1675), 290, 
 302 
 
 Nineveh, remains, etc., of, 204, 
 328 
 
 Niobe and her Family, statues of, 
 
 67 
 
 Noah's Ark, shop at Paris so 
 called, 31 
 
 Noli me tangere, a picture by 
 Hans Holbein, 329 
 
 Nonsuch House, Surrey, 242 
 and n. 
 
 Norbury Park, Mickleham, 186 
 and n. 
 
 Norden, John, accuracy of his 
 maps, 343 and n. 
 
 Norfolk, Thomas, fifth Duke of, 
 restored to the title, 217 ; his 
 death, 311 
 
 Norfolk, Henry, sixth Duke of, 
 128 and n. ; Marmora O.von- 
 iensis Arundelliana presented 
 to, by the University, 304 ; 
 marries his concubine, Mrs. 
 Bickerton, 311 and n. ; his 
 house and pictures at Wey- 
 bridge, 313 and «. ; presents the 
 Arundelian Library to the Royal 
 Society, 314 ; collection of pic- 
 tures, 345 ; his skill in horseman- 
 ship, 361 ; alluded to, 371. See 
 Howard 
 
 Norfolk, Henry, seventh Duke of, 
 his Divorce Bill thrown out 
 (1692), 427, 430 ; his kindness to 
 the Evelyn family, 433; succeeds 
 in obtaining his divorce (1700), 
 450 ; his death, 453 ; alluded to, 
 443. See Howard 
 
 Norfolk, Duchess of (Mrs. Bicker- 
 ton), 281 and n., 311 and «., 313, 
 400 
 
 Norfolk, Palace of the Dukes of 
 (1671), 281 and n. 
 
 Norfolk, Philip, Cardinal of, 130 
 
 Normanby, Marquis of, on death 
 of Charles II., etc., 435 
 
 Normandy, Evelyn's visit to, 38-9 
 
 Normandy, Robert Curthose, 
 Duke of, his tomb at Gloucester, 
 178 n. 
 
 North, Dr. (son of Lord), 305 ; 
 sermon by, 304 
 
 North, Sir Dudley, 378 
 
 North, Sir Francis, 285 and »., 
 356 ; Lord Chief Justice, 320 n. ; 
 Lord Keeper, 474 »., 343; 
 character of, ib., 356 ; his death, 
 378 and n. 
 
 North, Lord, 343 
 
 North, Roger, 378 
 
 North Foreland, Kent, engage- 
 ment with Dutch fleet off the, 
 246 and n. ; Lighthouse, 286 
 
 North Stoke, sale of estate at, 452 
 
 North's Plutarch (1898), cited, 2 n. 
 
 Northampton, James, third Earl 
 of (1659-60), 200 and «., 204 and 
 n. ; (1669), 267 ; (1676), 305 
 
 Northampton, George, fourth Earl 
 of, and Countess of (1688), 404 ; 
 his seat, ib. 
 
 Northampton, town of, 405 
 
 Northumberland, Countess of 
 (Lady Elizabeth Howard, wife 
 of tenth Earl), 208 ; marriage of 
 her grand-daughter, 336 ; her 
 death, 458 
 
 Northumberland, Countess of 
 (widow of eleventh Earl), 353 
 and n. 
 
 Northumberland, George Fitz- 
 Roy, Duke of (natural son of 
 Charles II.), 358 ; account of 
 him, 360 and n. ; his horseman- 
 ship, 361 ; attempt to spirit 
 away his wife, 389 
 
 Northumberland, Henry Percy, 
 eighth Earl of, suicide of, 349 n. 
 
 Northumberland, Algernon Percy, 
 tenth Earl of, account of, 198 and 
 n. ; his pictures at Suffolk House, 
 ib. ; his house at Syon, 239 and 
 n. ; alluded to, 458 
 
 Northumberland, Sir Francis. 
 See Guildford, Lord 
 
 Northumberland, Josceline, ele- 
 venth Earl of, his daughter's 
 marriage, 458 n. 
 
 North-West Passage, attempt to 
 discover, 305 
 
 Norton, Colonel, 381 
 
 Norton, Lady, infamous conduct 
 of, to Charles I., 172 
 
 Norwich, account of, 281 ; Ducal 
 palace at, ib, and n. 
 
 Norwich, George Goring, Earl of, 
 Ambassador to France, heads 
 the rising in Kent (1648), 146 
 and n. ; his trial, 147 and n. ; 
 his house in Epping Forest, 
 268 ; alluded to, 28 and ft., 163 
 and n. 
 
 Norwood, Colonel, 290 
 
 Notes and Queries, cited, 366 n. 
 
 N6tre, Andre Le, gardens, etc., 
 laid out by, 33 «., 37 n. 
 
 Notre Dame, Cathedral of, at 
 Antwerp, 21; at Paris, 30; at 
 Rouen, 38 and n. ; Marseilles, 
 
 51 
 Notre Dame de la Garde, Mar- 
 seilles, 51 and n. 
 Nottingham, town of, 180 
 Nottingham, Daniel Finch ; Earl 
 of, refused to sit in Council with 
 Papists (1688), 407 ; sent as 
 Commissioner to Prince of 
 Orange, 408 ; protests against 
 the abdication of James II., 
 412 ; sells Kensington to King 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 519 
 
 William, 418 and «. ; quarrel 
 with Admiral Russell, 430 and 
 n. : resigns Secretaryship of 
 State, 432 and n. ; marriage of 
 his son, 437 ; fire at his house 
 at Burley, 458 
 
 Nova Atlantis, referred to, 230 
 
 November, Fifth of, forbidden to 
 be kept, 385 
 
 Numismata : A Discourse of 
 Medals (1697), by Evelyn, 443 
 and #., 476 and n., 480 
 
 Nuncio of the Pope at the French 
 Court (1649), 152 ; in England 
 (1686), 387 
 
 Nuts found by swine, etc., 49 
 
 Oakham, tenure of the Barons 
 Ferrers at, 180 and n. 
 
 Oakwood Chapel, endowment, 
 and repair of, 438 «., 453 
 
 Oates, Titus, account of, 316 «. ; 
 conspiracy discovered by, 316 ; 
 character of, ib. ; accuses the 
 Queen, 317, and several Popish 
 Peers, ib. ; evidence against Sir 
 George Wakeman, 320 and n. ; 
 reflections on his conduct, ib. ', 
 a witness against Lord Stafford, 
 331 ; Lord Stafford's remarks on 
 his evidence, 332 ; his knavery 
 and imprudence, 347 ; tried for 
 perjury, 372 and «. ; his punish- 
 ment, ib., 373, 374 ; writ of error 
 in the judgment of, 415 and 
 n. ; released and pensioned, 416 
 and n. ; his reviling book against 
 King James, 440 and n. 
 
 Oatlands, Surrey, mansion at, 
 referred to, 400 and n. 
 
 Obelisctis Pamphiliiis, et ALgypti- 
 acus (1650-54), 77 n., 127 
 
 Obelisk, of Augustus, 71 ; of 
 Octavius Caesar, 74 and n. ; of 
 Constantine, 77-8, 87 ; in Circus 
 Caracalla, ico ; brought from 
 Egypt by Augustus, 103 
 
 Obligations and Tests dispensed 
 with (1687), 395, 397 
 
 Oblivion, Act of (1652), 166 and n. 
 
 O'Brien, Lord, 311, 340; his 
 widow, 295 and n. 
 
 Observator, newspaper, 189 n., 
 372 and n. 
 
 Octavius Csesar, obelisk of, 74 
 
 Odours of Paris, 29 and n. 
 
 Oeconomist to a Married Friend, 
 by Evelyn, 479 
 
 Oesters House at Antwerp, 21 
 
 Officium Sanctce et Individuce 
 Trinitatis, by Evelyn, 150 n. 
 
 Offices and Meditations, by 
 Evelyn. 479 
 
 Offley,Mr. Thomas, groom-porter, 
 146 and »., 171, 198, 249 
 
 Offley, Dr., Rector of Abinger, 
 438 and «. ; sermon of, ib. ; his 
 gift to Oakwood Chapel, ib. 
 
 Offley family, 448 
 
 Ogilby, John, the "King's Cos- 
 mographer" (1661), 211 n. 
 
 Ogilvie, Sir James, 444 n. 
 Ogle, Lady, widow of Lord, re- 
 marriage to Mr. Thynne, 336 
 
 and »., 337, 339 
 Ogle, Mrs. Anne, married to 
 
 Craven Howard, 301 and n. 
 Oglethorpe, Mr., duel fought by, 
 
 456 
 Oglethorpe, Sir Theophilus, 456 
 
 and n. 
 Ogniati, Count, 271 
 Olao, Nicholao, statue of, 117 
 Old Bailey, man pressed to death 
 
 at the, 169 
 Old Jewry, Sir Robert Clayton's 
 
 house in the, 288 and n. 
 Oldenburg, Henry, Secretary to 
 
 Royal Society, 223 «., 303, 477 ; 
 
 confined in the Tower, 258 and 
 
 n. ; letter of Evelyn to, 251 «. 
 Oleine, Count, his palace at 
 
 Vicenza, 131 
 Oliva, Padre, General of the 
 
 Jesuits, 320 and n. 
 Oliver, Peter, miniatures by, 146 
 
 and «., 186, 207, 213 
 Olivetani, Padri, Church of, 92, 
 
 125 
 Olonne, Count d , 160 
 O'Neale, Mr., built Belsize House, 
 
 3°5 
 
 Onocrotalus, or Pelican, 13, 93, 
 236 
 
 Onslow, Arthur, his seat at West 
 Clandon, 273 and «. 
 
 Onslow, Denzil, his house at 
 Pyrford, 335 and n. 
 
 Onslow, Earl of, 194 «., 335 n. 
 
 Onslow, Sir Richard, 424, 443, 
 445. 452, 454, 45Q n. ; subscrip- 
 tion to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. ; fights a duel, 456 ; con- 
 tested elections for Surrey, 371, 
 
 454 
 Opera at Venice (1645), 122 ; at 
 
 Milan, 136; at the Court in 
 
 Paris, 158 ; in England, 200 
 
 and «., 294 
 
 Oraisons Punibres (1874), Bos- 
 suet, cited, 385 n. 
 
 Orange, town and principality of, 
 
 5° 
 Orange, Henry Frederick, Prince 
 
 of, 309 
 
 Orange, William the Silent, 
 Prince of, 14 and n. 
 
 Orange, William II., Prince of, 9 
 and n. ; his palace, Hof van 
 Hounsler's Dyck, 18 ; death 
 (1650), 157 
 
 Orange, William, Prince of, after- 
 wards King William III., 274, 
 310, 311 ; marries Princess 
 Mary, 310 and n. ; accuses 
 Deputies of Amsterdam, 357 ; 
 sends forces to James II., 377 ; 
 Dutch refuse aid to relieve 
 Luxemburg (1684), 358, 359 ; 
 landing of, hinted at, 404. See 
 William III. 
 
 Orange, Mary, Princess of, sister 
 
 of Charles II., 4, 9, 19, 208 and 
 »., 274; her death, 208 and n. 
 
 Oranges, raised in England, 308, 
 317, 322, 401 ; first seen at 
 Beddington, 199, 451 
 
 Orford, Edward Russell, Earl of. 
 See Russell 
 
 Orgagna's Loggia de' Lanzi, 59 «. 
 
 Organs, notices of, 16, 17, 61, 78, 
 88, 108, 109, 133, 176, 225 
 
 Orleans, Duke of, 161 
 
 Orleans, Duke of (temp. Hen. V.), 
 169 and n., 295 and n. 
 
 Orleans, Gaston - Jean - Baptiste, 
 Duke of, his collection at the 
 Luxembourg, 40 and n. ; his 
 garden, at Blois, 44 and n. ', 
 alluded to, 394 
 
 Orleans, Henrietta, Duchess of, 
 157, 208, 269 and n. 
 
 Orleans, account of, 43-4 and «., 
 144 
 
 Orleans, Forest of, robbers in, 43 
 
 Ormonde, James Butler, Mar- 
 quess, afterwards Duke of, 
 account of, 153 n. ; his estates 
 restored, 205 ; on the natural 
 history of Ireland, 217 ; Chan- 
 cellor of Oxford, and created 
 Doctor, 267 ; anecdote respect- 
 ing, 299 ; lays down his com- 
 mission, 446 ; restored, ib. ; 
 alluded to, 157, 198 and »., 212, 
 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 231, 233, 
 236, 262, 267, 300, 327 
 
 Ormonde, Marchioness of, 207 ; 
 Duchess of, 307 
 
 Orr, Mrs. Sutherland, Handbook 
 to Brownings Works, cited, 
 71 n. 
 
 Orrery, Richard Broghill, Earl 
 of, plays by, 237 and »., 252 
 and n. 
 
 Osborne, Sir Thomas (afterwards 
 Earl of Danby, Marquis Car- 
 marthen and Duke of Leeds), 
 shooting match, 156-7 ; Lord 
 Treasurer, 291 ; strictures on, 
 ib., 293 ; his administration, 
 337 ; his imprisonment, ib. and 
 «■ 355 \ released, 357 ; alluded 
 to, 156-7 ; account of, ib. n. 
 See also Danby, Earl of 
 
 Osiris, inscriptions concerning, 
 63 ; statue of, 66 
 
 Ossory, Thomas Butler (Earl of), 
 Lord, his horsemanship, 153 
 and n. ; adventure of, 153-4 » 
 return to England, 205 ; averse 
 to attacking the Smyrna Fleet, 
 283, 327 ; a Younger Brother 
 of the Trinity House, 290 ; 
 Master, 299 ; commands forces 
 in Holland, 312; his expedition 
 to Tangier, 326 ; death, 327 ; 
 his character, ib. ; alluded to, 
 42 «., 310, 323 ; his daughter, 
 306 
 
 Ossory, Countess of, 327 and n. 
 
 Ossory, James Butler, Earl of 
 (son of the Great Earl), his 
 
520 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 marriage, 343 ; his mansion 
 destroyed, 422 ; account of, 
 153 «. ; references to, 341 and 
 ».,38 4 
 
 Ustend, notice of, 24 and n. 
 
 Ostriches, 337 and n. 
 
 Otter-hunting, 218 
 
 Ottoboni, Cardinal Pietro, elected 
 Pope (Alexander VIII.), 417 
 and n. 
 
 Oudart, Mr., 231 and «., 246 
 
 Oughtred, Rev. William, mathe- 
 matician, 172 and n. ; conversa- 
 tion with Evelyn, 187 
 
 Ouseley, Sir Charles, 188 
 
 Outram, Dr., Vicar of St. Mar- 
 garet's, 323 
 
 Ovens, portable iron, 246 
 
 Overkirk, Amsterdam, Jewish 
 cemetery at, 14 
 
 Ovid, Metamorphoses of, in 
 mezzo-rilievo, 108 
 
 Ovid, quoted, 2 and n. 
 
 Owen, Richard, 147 and «., 148 
 and n., 166, 170, 172, 173, 185, 
 198, 231 
 
 Owen, Sir John, 149 and 71. 
 
 Owen, Dr. John, the Independ- 
 ent, 175 and n. 
 
 Ox, remarkable one, 149 
 
 Oxford, Aubrey de Vere, Earl of, 
 notice of, 226 n. ; his mistress, 
 218, 252 n. ; alluded to, 228, 
 252, 273 
 
 Oxford, Royal visit to, 6 «., 461; 
 Balliol College, Evelyn ad- 
 mitted, 6 ; his gift of books to, 
 7 ; first coffee-house in England 
 at, 6 n. ; visits of Evelyn to 
 (1654), 175 ; (1664), 232 ; (1669), 
 266 ; (1675), 300 ; the Act at, 
 J 75, 2 3 2 > 2 ^6, 300 ; Bodleian 
 Library, 175 ; Anatomical 
 School, St. John's, New Col- 
 lege, and Christ Church, 176 ; 
 Magdalen College, Physic Gar- 
 den, etc., ib. and «., 233; 
 Theatre, 232 ; All Souls, Mag- 
 dalen Chapel, ib. ; Ashmolean 
 Museum given to, 195 and 11. , 
 198, 312 and n. ', Court and 
 Parliament held at (1665), 241 ; 
 gift to wounded sailors, 245 ; 
 Arundelian Marbles procured 
 for, 259, 423 n. ; Convocation 
 formally thank Evelyn, 259- 
 60, and Mr. Howard, ib. ; 
 Encaenia on the completion of 
 the Theatre, 266 ; the Terras 
 filius, ib. ; the Act, ib. ; Doc- 
 tor's degree conferred on Evelyn 
 and others, 267 ; University 
 present Evelyn with a copy of 
 Marmora Oxoniensia A rundel- 
 liana, 304 ; Dr. Plot's curiosi- 
 ties, 300 ; Parliament at (1681), 
 334 ; cold reception of William 
 III. (1695), 438 ; ejected Fel- 
 lows of Magdalen College 
 restored, 405 ; reception of 
 Queen Anne, 455 
 
 Oxfordshire, Natural History 
 
 of, Dr. Plot's, 300, 337 
 Oysters, 126 ; Colchester, 190 and 
 
 n. 
 
 Pacific Ocean, Dampier's observa- 
 tions on the, 445 
 
 Packer, Mr., 242; his seat and 
 chapel at Groombridge, 168 and 
 n -i 2 95) 354 j hi s daughter's fine 
 voice, 363 
 
 Paddy, Sir William, portrait of, 
 224 
 
 Padua, described, 122 ; inscrip- 
 tion over a gate, 123 ; tomb at 
 St. Lorenzo, ib. ; St. Anthony's 
 Church, ib. ; Convent of St. 
 Justina, ib. ; Great Hall, 125 ; 
 Monte Pieta, 125; Schools, ib. ; 
 Garden of Simples, 126 ; noc- 
 turnal disorders at, 128; Surgical 
 Lectures and Hospitals, 129 
 and n. 
 
 Pageant, at the Lord Mayor's 
 Show (1660), 207 ; (1662), 224 ; 
 on the Thames (1662), 223. See 
 London 
 
 Paget, William, Lord, Ambassador 
 to Turkey, 429 and n. 
 
 Paine, Captain, 164 
 
 Painted Chamber, Westminster, 
 147 and »., 299 
 
 Painter s Voyage of Italy, re- 
 ferred to, 134 n. 
 
 Painters and sculptors in Rome, 
 109 ; in Florence, 113 
 
 Painters' Hall, 234, 245 
 
 Painting, Old Roman, described, 
 82 
 
 Painting, Anecdotes of, Walpole, 
 cited, 126 «., 146 ». 
 
 Painting, An Idea of the Perfec- 
 tion of, by Evelyn, 263 and «., 
 476, 480 
 
 Painting, on the face, first used 
 by women, 173 
 
 Palace of the Pope, at Monte 
 Cavallo, 69 and n. ; at Rome, 
 
 82 . 
 Palais, at Paris, 31 and n. ; Isle 
 
 du, at Paris, ib. 
 
 Palais Cardinal, at Paris, 28 and 
 
 «., 42, 152 ; Royal masque at, 
 
 Palais Royal, Paris, 31 
 
 Palazzo Barberini, at Rome, 66 ; 
 Medicis, at Rome, 67 ; Mag- 
 giore, at Rome, 79 ; di Chigi, 
 at Rome, 83 ; Caraffi, at Naples, 
 92 ; di Strozzi and Pitti, Flor- 
 ence, 57 ; Vecchio, at Florence, 
 58, 112 ; della Cancellaria, at 
 Rome, 101 ; Farnese, at Rome, 
 63, 87-8 ; del Diamante, Fer- 
 rara, 117 and n. 
 
 Pall Mall, at Blois, 44 ; Tours, 
 45 and n. ; Lyons, 49 ; Geneva, 
 143 ; London, 276 «., 285 
 
 Palladio, Andrea, works of, 44, 
 123, 125, 130 and «., 131, 288 ; 
 birthplace, 130 
 
 Palma, Jacopo, paintings by, 36, 
 
 148, 306 
 Palmer, Dudley, of Gray's Inn, 
 
 his curious clocks, etc., 214 and 
 
 n. ; 477 and n. 
 Palmer, Sir James, 147 
 Palmer, Lady Anne, daughter of 
 
 Charles II., 306 n. 
 Pamphili, John Baptista, elected 
 
 Pope (Innocent X.), 61 ; palaces 
 
 of his family, 102 
 Pamphilio, Cardinal, 73, 106 
 Panama, expedition of Colonel 
 
 Morgan to, 278, 296 
 Pancirollus, Guido, story of the 
 
 opening of a Roman tomb, 90 
 Panegyric, A, at His Majesty 
 
 King Charles's Coronation 
 
 (1661), by Evelyn, 212 and «., 
 
 476, 479 
 
 Pantheon, at Rome, 102 
 
 Paolo Veronese. See Cagliari 
 
 Paper, from China, 230 ; process 
 of manufacturing, 313 and n. 
 
 Papillion, Mr., 189 
 
 Papillon, Mr., 347 
 
 Papin, Denys, his digesters, 340; 
 notice of, ib. n. 
 
 Papists, conspiracy of (1678), 316 
 and n. ; (1683), 347; (1696), 
 439 ; triumph at acquittal of Sir 
 George Wakeman, 320 ; and at 
 Rye House Plot, 350 ; Pro- 
 clamation against, 423 ; harsh 
 law regarding their estates, 450 ; 
 their indiscreet acts, ib. ; dis- 
 possessed of estates (1700), ib. ; 
 banished ten miles from London, 
 439 ; hiding-places for, 313 and 
 n. See Roman Catholics 
 
 Papplewick, view from, 180 
 
 Paradise, banqueting - house so 
 called, 221 ; an exhibition of 
 animals, 294 and n. 
 
 Paris, description of (1643-44), 28- 
 42; (1646-47), 145 ; (1649-50), 150- 
 55; (1650-51), 156-64 ; PontNeuf. 
 29 ; odours of, ib. and «. ; 
 Cathedral of Notre Dame, 30 ; 
 Jesuits' Church and College, 
 ib. ; the Sorbonne, ib. ; Univer- 
 sity, 29, 30 ; the Exchange, 31 ; 
 Palais, ib. and n. ; St. Chapelle, 
 ib. ; Isle du Palais and Noah's 
 Ark, ib. ; Marais du Temple, 
 ib. ; St. Genevieve and Palais 
 Royal, ib. ; Hospitals, 32 ; the 
 Chatelets, ib. ; Jardin Royal, 
 ib. ; Bastille, ib. ; Bois de Vin- 
 cennes, ib. and n. ; the Louvre, 
 ib. ; Palace of the Tuileries and 
 its gardens, 32-3 ; St. Germain- 
 en-Laye, 33 ; Count de Lian- 
 court's palace and pictures, 35 ; 
 Fontainebleau, 36-7 and n. ; the 
 Luxembourg, 40 and n. ; its 
 gardens, ib. and n. \ view of, 
 from St. Jacques' steeple, 41 ; 
 St. Innocent's churchyard, ib. 
 and n. ; M. Morine's garden, 
 42, 158 *, Palais Cardinal, 42, 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 521 
 
 152 ; muster of gens cTarvnes, 
 42 ; President Maison's palace, 
 151 ; audience of the English 
 Ambassador (1649?, J 5 2 ; St. 
 Stephen's Church, ib. ; mas- 
 querades at, 153, 158 ; Madrid, 
 T 53 \ Ordination of English 
 Divines at (1650), 154 ; Samari- 
 tan or Pump at Pont Neuf, 29 
 and «., 155; Convent of Bons 
 Hommes, 157 ; Friar Nicholas, 
 ib. ; torture at the Chatelet, 
 158 ; opera at the Palais Car- 
 dinal, ib. ; ceremonies on 
 Corpus Christi, 159 ; procession 
 of Louis XIV. to Parliament, 
 160 ; audience of English Am- 
 bassador, 161 '; King's gardens, 
 ib. ; Mark Antonio, the 
 enameller, at, 164 ; besieged in 
 1649 and 1652 by Prince of 
 Conde, 148, 167 ; storm in 
 (1687), 399 ; rejoicings on re- 
 ported death of William III. 
 (1690), 422 
 
 Paris, Archbishop of, house at 
 St. Cloud, 33 
 
 Park, at Brussels, 23 ; at Pisa, 
 56 ; Mont Alto, Rome, 70 ; at 
 Hampton Court, 221 ; Ipswich, 
 308 ; Euston, ib. ; Bagshot, 379 
 
 Park's History of Hampsteaa, 
 
 3°5 «• 
 
 Parker, Mr. P. L., George Fox's 
 Journal, cited, 191 n. 
 
 Parker, Dr. Samuel, Bishop of 
 Oxford, 392 and n. ; his death 
 and character, 400 and «. 
 
 Parkhurst, Dr. , Master of Balliol, 
 6 and n. 
 
 Parkhurst, Sir Robert, 335 
 
 Parliament, the Short Parliament, 
 8 ; the Long Parliament, 9 and 
 n. ; opening and dissolution of 
 (1640), 8 ; surprised by the 
 Rebel army (1648), 147 ", sum- 
 moned by Cromwell in 1656, 
 192 ; turned out by the army, 
 201 ; Rump dissolved, 203 ; its 
 action prior to the Restoration, 
 469 and n. ; opened by Charles 
 II. (1661), 213 ; fast held by the, 
 219 ; prorogued (1665), 236 ; 
 dispute in Committee as to use 
 of lights to sit longer, 253 ; 
 grants subsidy to the King 
 (1671), 276 ; dispute between 
 Lords and Commons (1675), 
 299 ; Roman Catholic Lords 
 excluded (1678), 316 ; Long Par- 
 liament dissolved (1679), 3*8 ; 
 votes against Duke of York, 
 3 T 8| 333 ; convened at Oxford 
 (1681), 334 ; elections influenced 
 by the Court (1685), 367, 372, 
 374 ; trick at Surrey election, 
 371 ; speech of James II. on his 
 accession, 373 ; proceedings of 
 (1685), 373, 374 ; steadfastness 
 of Protestant members, 385 ; 
 prorogued (1687), 397 ; hastily 
 
 summoned (1688), 405 ; writs 
 recalled, ib. ; members of Parlia- 
 ment of 1685 ^k Prince of Orange 
 to take charge of public revenue, 
 409 ; debate in the Lords on the 
 Regency, 411 ; precipitate con- 
 duct of the Commons (1689), 
 413 ; banquet and medals given 
 to members, 414 ; excludes 
 Duke of Hanover from succes- 
 sion, 417 ; prorogued and dis- 
 solved (1690), 418 ; proposal to 
 confiscate salaries over .£500, 
 426; Self- Denying Act, 430; 
 intent on reforming coinage, 
 439 and n. ; proceedings on dis- 
 covery of conspiracy against 
 William III. (1696), 439, 441 ; 
 proceedings against Sir Charles 
 Duncombe, M.P., 444 and n. ; 
 fixes 7000 as the standing army, 
 445 ; reverses donations of Irish 
 forfeitures, 449 ; questions the 
 pardon granted to Captain 
 Kidd, ib. ; orders book about 
 Darien to be burned, ib. and «. ; 
 resents a sermon preached on 
 anniversary of death of Charles 
 I., ib. ; votes against Scottish 
 settlement in Darien, ib., and 
 against attorneys, ib. ', commis- 
 sion for Irish forfeited estates, 
 450 ; contest over Lords' power 
 of amending Bills tacked to 
 Money Bills, ib. ; Evelyn's 
 Greenwich Hospital Accounts 
 presented to, 452 ; petitioners 
 imprisoned, 453 and n. ; major- 
 ity hold Church of England 
 principles (1702), 455; large 
 attendance (1705), 459 
 Parma, Duke of, triumphal arch 
 of the, 81 ; his collection, 88 ; 
 his palace Caprarola, no 
 Parmensis, Battista, drawings by, 
 
 361 132 
 Parr, Dr. Richard, funeral sermon 
 on Dr. Breton, 283 and n. ; 
 alluded to, 336, 431 ; Evelyn's 
 visit to, 390 
 Parson, The Country, by George 
 Herbert, cited, Introduction, 
 xv «. 
 Parson's Green, Lord Mordaunt's 
 house at, 209 and «., 319, 
 
 3 2 5 
 Pasquin and pasquinata, at Rome, 
 
 102 and n. 
 
 Passignano, Domenico Crest i, 
 painting by, 36 
 
 Passion, instance of violent, 54^ 
 
 Passports, Spanish, 129 ; English, 
 156 
 
 Paston, Sir Robert (Earl of Yar- 
 mouth), 189 and «., T02, 238 
 
 Patriarchs, Eastern, subscriptions 
 to our Confessions, 224 
 
 Patrick, Dr. Simon, Dean of 
 Peterborough and Bishop of 
 Ely, 264 «. , 424 ; sermons by, 
 264, 268, 269, 386, 393 
 
 Pattison's Milton, cited, Intro- 
 
 duction, xiii «., 101 n. 
 Paul, Chevalier (Paul de Saumur), 
 
 160 and n. 
 Paul, Mr., agent of the Elector 
 
 Palatine in France, 152 
 Paul, St., burial-place, 76, 87; 
 
 relics of, 76, 84, 87 ; statue of, 
 
 102 ; landing-place, 97 ; Port of, 
 
 100 
 Paul III., Pope, statue of, 76; 
 
 shrine of, 103 
 Paul IV., Pope, statue of, 115 
 Paul V., Pope, chapel of, 70; 
 
 fountain of, 89 
 Paullo, Julio, bust of, at Padua, 
 
 125 
 Pausilippe, a subterranean pas- 
 sage, 259, 273 and «. 
 Pausilippus, etc., near Naples, 
 
 94 and n. 
 Peace, with Holland, proclaimed, 
 
 258 and n. ; of Ryswyk, 443 
 
 and n. ■ 
 Peake, Sir John, Lord Mayor 
 
 (1687), 399 
 Pearls, notices of large ones, 102 
 
 and n., 112, 122; The Legend 
 
 of the Pearl, by Evelyn, 479 
 Pearson, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 
 Chester, alluded to, 170 and n., 
 
 186 and n., 213 ; sermons by,'2Qo 
 Peat or turf, use of, proposed 
 
 (1667), 256 
 Peckham, Sir Henry, feast at the 
 
 Temple, 268 
 Peckham, Sir T. Bond's house at, 
 
 305, 336 . _ , 
 
 Pedigree of the Evelyns, 479 
 
 Pelerini della S. Trinita, Hospital 
 of, Rome, 101 
 
 Pelestrina, 117 
 
 Pelicans, 13, 236 
 
 Pemberton, Sir Francis, Lord 
 Chief Justice, 320 «., 353 
 and n. 
 
 Pembroke, Philip Herbert, 5th 
 Earl of, 174, 176, 177 
 
 Pembroke, 7th Earl of, 236 
 
 Pembroke, 8th Earl of, 397, 441, 
 442, 458 
 
 Penitents, procession of, on Good 
 Friday, 106 
 
 Penn, Admiral William, 185 
 and n. 
 
 Penn, Sir William, impeached, 
 262 and n. ; notice of, ib. ; blas- 
 phemous book by his son, 264 
 
 Pennington, Isaac, Lord Mayor 
 of London, 179 n. 
 
 Penshurst, notice of, 169 
 
 Pepys, Samuel, Secretary to the 
 Admiralty, 305 ; Evelyn's first 
 mention of him, 265 «. ; cut for 
 the stone, ib. ; Clerk of the 
 Acts, 275 ; twice Master of the 
 Trinity House, 304, 377 ; com- 
 mitted to the Tower, 318 and 
 n. ; accused of being a Papist, 
 and of treachery, ib. ; possessed 
 Deane's Art of Shipbuilding, 
 
522 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 339 ; accompanies the King to 
 Portsmouth (1685), 378, 381 ; 
 impostures of the Saludadors 
 confessed to, 379 n. ; his con- 
 versation with James II. re- 
 specting Charles II. being a 
 Catholic, etc., 381, 382 ; portrait 
 of Evelyn painted for, 416 ; 
 conversation with Evelyn on 
 the Navy, 419 ; his remonstrance 
 against suspicions of him, 420, 
 423 ; sent to the Gatehouse, 421 
 and n. ; set free, 422 and n. ; 
 his house at Clapham, 429 n., 
 451 ; his library, 456 ». ; merry 
 meeting with Evelyn, 240 n. ; 
 visits Evelyn at Sayes Court, 
 241 n. ; his History of the 
 Navy, 420 »., 456 and n. ; his 
 death and character, 456 and 
 n. ; meditated a History of 
 the Dutch War, Introduction, 
 xxviii and n. ; Evelyn's letters 
 to him, 265 «., 458 «., 480 n. ; 
 his references to Evelyn, Intro- 
 duction, xxvi-xxvii ; allusions 
 to him, 240, 275, 296, 305, 319, 
 339, 367 «., 341 «., 377 «., 386, 
 397, 410, 422, 424, 429, 444, 445 ; 
 his Diary referred to, see notes 
 on pp. 25, 159, 189, 205, 207, 
 216, 217, 219, 224, 225, 226, 230, 
 231, 235, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 
 241, 242, 243, 244, 246, 251, 253, 
 254, 255, 257, 258, 259, 261, 262, 
 264, 265, 270, 282, 289, 293, 297, 
 
 303. 3 T 3, 3i7> 4 l8 » 421, 4 2 9>.473 
 Pepys 1 Correspondence, cited, 
 
 379 «• 
 Pepys' Diary (1905), Prof. G. 
 
 Gregory Smith, cited, 318 n. 
 Pepys, Samuel, and the World 
 
 he lived in (1880), Mr. H. B. 
 
 Wheatley, F.S.A., cited, 451 
 Percy, Lady Elizabeth, 458 n. 
 Percy, Henry (brother to Earl of 
 
 Northumberland), 329 
 Perelle, Gabriel, engraver, 34 n., 
 
 153 and n. 
 Perfuming rooms in Germany, 
 
 singular method of, 187 
 Perishot, M., collection of, 36 
 Perkins, Sir William, executed, 
 
 440 ; absolved at Tyburn, ib. 
 
 and n. 
 Pernee, notice of, 164 
 Perpetual motion, 262 
 Perrier, Francis, his book of 
 
 Antique Statues, 155 and n, 
 Persepolis, ruins of, 328, 357 
 Persia, M. Chardin's travels in, 
 
 328, 355, 357 
 Persian habit, 115 and «., 462 ; 
 adopted at Court (1666), 251, 
 
 252, 254 ... 
 
 Perugino, Pietro, paintings by, 
 
 58, 65, 104, no 
 Peruzzi, Baldassare (called Bald- 
 
 assare da Siena), 83 
 Peschiera, 132 
 Peter, Mrs. Evelyn's nurse, 3 
 
 Peter House, Cambridge, 183 
 
 Peter, St., his burial-place, 76, 
 87 ; statue and relics of, 61, 76, 
 84, 87, 104 
 
 Peter of Toledo, 95 ; palace of, 96 
 
 Peter the Great, occupies Evelyn's 
 house, 444 and n., 445 and n., 
 Introduction, xxxv and n. ', his 
 stay in Deptford, 445 n. 
 
 Peterborough, notice of, 182 
 
 Peterborough House, Parson's 
 Green, 209 «., 217 
 
 Peterborough, Countess of, house 
 at Reigate, 186 and n. ; alluded 
 to, 198, 217 
 
 Peterborough, Henry Mordaunt, 
 second Earl of, 217 and «., 307, 
 367, 427 ; sale of lands to pay 
 debts (1676), 307 ; marriage of 
 his daughter, ib, ; arrested, 409, 
 416 and n. 
 
 Peters, Hugh, a rebel, 147 and n. ; 
 executed, 206 
 
 Petit, Mons., of Rome, 63 
 
 Petit, old, paintings of, 148 
 
 Petit - Luxembourg, noticed, 41 
 and n. 
 
 Petitot, John, enamel by, 207 
 
 Petrarch, Francisco, MS. of, 86 ; 
 Laura's tomb at Avignon, 50 
 and n. 
 
 Petras, Glossa, found at Sheer- 
 ness, 262 
 
 Petre, Lord, committed for Popish 
 plot, 317, 318 and n. 
 
 Petrifactions, 127 
 
 Petrified human body, 68, 107 
 
 Petrifying spring, 46 
 
 Petronella, tomb of, 83 
 
 Pett, Peter, naval architect, in- 
 ventor of frigates, n «., 229 
 and «., 256 n., 419 and n. 
 
 Pett, Phineas, his skill in ship- 
 building, 11 and n. 
 
 Petty, Sir William, improvements 
 of shipping, 217, 229 ; ship with 
 hinged keel, 217, and one with 
 two bottoms, 234, 298 ; restores 
 a woman who had been hanged, 
 298 and n. ; his map of Ireland, 
 ib. and n. ; his character, 298-9; 
 account of, 217 «., 297-8; his 
 house, 297 n. ', alluded to, 239, 
 
 303, 343 
 Peyton, Sir Thomas, 155 
 
 Phidias and Praxiteles, horses of, 
 68 and n. 
 
 Philips, ' Katherine, her tragedy, 
 Horace, 261 and «., 265 
 
 Philips, M., portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Philhmore and Whitear's C/iis- 
 wick, cited, 342 n. 
 
 Phillips, Edward, preceptor of 
 Evelyn's son, 229 and «., 236 ; 
 preferred by his recommenda- 
 tion, 310 ; his edition of Baker's 
 Chronicle, 466 
 
 Phillips, Lives 0/ John and 
 Edward, by Mr. Godwin, 229 n. 
 
 Philosophic Society. See Gres- 
 ham College, Royal Society 
 
 Phipps, Sir William, Governor of 
 
 New England, 430 n. 
 Phosphorescent stone, 109 and «., 
 
 "5 
 Physicians' College, 345 and ». 
 Piacentino, Giuho, painting by, 
 
 TOI 
 
 Piazza, Judea, at Rome, 84 ; 
 Piscina, 105 ; Navona, 100, 101, 
 109 ; of St. Mark, Venice, 118; 
 of St. Anthony, Padua, 123 ; at 
 Brescia, 133 ; at Milan, 134 ; at 
 Leghorn, 57 ; Vicenza, 131 ; 
 at Bologna, 115 
 
 Picardy, the regiment of (1650), 
 156 
 
 Piccadilly paved (1662), 222 and n. 
 
 Piccioli, Evelyn's dog, 144 
 
 Piccolomini, ancient family of, 60, 
 103 and n. 
 
 Pichmi, Signor, his collection, 
 64 
 
 Pictures, at Rotterdam Fair, 13 ; 
 auction of, at Whitehall, 431; 
 collections noticed, 36, 37, 40, 
 58, 67, 82, 85, 112, 148, 149, 169, 
 264, 289, 292 and «., 313, 314, 
 317, 362, 431, 441 ; realistic, of 
 Arch of Constantine, 34 
 
 Piedmont, massacre of Protestants 
 in, 390 
 
 Pierce, Dr. Thomas, President of 
 Magdalen College, 192 and «., 
 228 n. ; sermons at Whitehall, 
 311, 318, 324 
 
 Pierce, Edward, paintings by, 177 
 and «. 
 
 Pierrepont, Evelyn, his marriage, 
 398 and n. 
 
 Pierrepont, Mr., house at Notting- 
 ham, 180 ; near Pontefract, 181 
 
 Pierrepont, Mrs., married to Mr. 
 Cheyne, 418, 428 
 
 Pierrepont, Hon. William, his 
 wife, daughter of Sir John 
 Evelyn, 149 and «., 398 ; her 
 death, 445 
 
 Pietra-commcssa (inlaid marble), 
 58 and n., 73, 76, 82, 108, 112, 
 123, 183 ; artists in, at Florence, 
 
 IT 3 
 Pietra Mala, a burning mountain, 
 
 114 
 Pietro, Signor, musician, 329, 368, 
 
 37o 
 Pilgrimes (Purchas), alluded to, 
 
 Introduction, xviii 
 Pilgrims, ceremony of washing 
 
 feet of, 10 1, 106 
 Pilton, Devon, sale of, 358 
 Pine, Queen, from Barbadoes, 214 
 
 and n. ; King, 263 
 Pintado, room hung with, 241 
 
 and n. 
 Piperno, town of, 89 
 Pipet, Mont, ruins on, 50 and n. 
 Piqudillo (Piccadilly), 222 and n. 
 Pirate in Straits of Dover, 150, 
 
 .155, J56 
 Pisa, city of, account of, 56, in 
 Pisano, Pietro, paintings by, 78 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 523 
 
 Piscina Mirabilis, account of the, 
 
 .97 . 
 Pistoia, notice of, m 
 Piten, a Jesuit, 408 
 Pitti, Palace of, at Florence, 57 
 Plaats, dangerous sea called, 20 
 Plague, in London, etc., ravages 
 
 of, 3, 6, 25; (1665), 239, 240, 
 
 241 ; in the country, 242, 243, 
 
 246 ; abates, 241, 242, 243, 252 ; 
 
 remedy for the, 351 
 Plantations, Foreign Council for, 
 
 appointed (1671), 275, 276. See 
 
 Trade, etc., Council for 
 Plantin, Christopher, shop of, at 
 
 Antwerp, 22 and n. 
 Plaster, used for floors, 54 
 Plays and theatres, at Rome, 105, 
 
 107 ; at Venice, 122 ; in Milan, 
 
 136 ; in Paris, 158 ; in England, 
 
 219, 225, 226, 229, 230, 261, 262, 
 
 264, 265, 282 
 Plessis (Plessis-Iez-Tours), house 
 
 of the French King, 46 and n. 
 Plessis, Mons. du, riding-school 
 
 of, 42 
 Pliny, references to, 55, 62, 67 
 
 and «., 68, 79, 86 »., 87, 97 and 
 
 «., 106 ; death of, 93 and n. ; 
 
 statue of, 132 
 Plot, Dr. Robert, 476 ; account 
 
 of, 300 and n. ; his natural 
 
 curiosities, ib. ; his projected 
 
 History of Staffordshire, ib. ; 
 
 the book cited, 232 ; Secretary 
 
 of Royal Society, 337 
 Plots, references to various, 347, 
 
 352, 371, 416, 423, 426, 439, 443 
 Plume, Mr., sermon by, 251 
 Plutarch, North's, cited, 2 n. 
 Pluto, Temple of, 96 
 Plymouth, Charles Fitz-Charles, 
 
 Earl of, 321 
 Plymouth, declares for Prince of 
 
 Orange (1688), 408 
 Po, river, notice of the, 117 
 Poem upon his Majesties Corona- 
 tion (1661), by Evelyn, 212 
 
 and n. 
 Poggio Imperiale, Florence, in 
 Poignant, Mons., at Paris, his 
 
 collection, 159 
 Poitiers, Diane de, 48 «. 
 Poland, incursion of the Swedes 
 
 into, 187 
 Poland, King of, Embassy to 
 
 Charles II., 206 ; raises the siege 
 
 of Vienna, 352 and n. 
 Pole, Cardinal, portrait, 264 n. 
 Polemburg, Cornelius, paintings 
 
 by, 36 
 Polhill, David, imprisoned, 453 n. 
 Political Discourses, etc, by 
 
 Evelyn, 479 
 Poll tax, 206, 416, 426 n. 
 Pollajuolo, sculpture by, 74 
 Pollard, Sir Hugh, 225 and «., 
 
 227 ; death of, 253, 292 
 Pollock, Mr. John, his Popish 
 
 Plot, cited, 316 «. 
 Polydore, paintings by, 169, 224 
 
 Polydorus, sculptor, 86 
 Polythore, a musical instrument, 
 
 214 
 Pomfret, Countess Dowager of 
 
 (i755)i 423 n. ; Earl of, 427 «. 
 Pomfret, Thomas, his Life of the 
 
 Countess of Devonshire, 222 n. 
 Pomona, by Evelyn, 479 
 Pompey, ruins of house of, Rome, 
 
 79 
 Pomptini Campi, 89 
 
 Pons Milvius, 105 
 
 Pont Neuf, at Paris, 29, 155 
 
 Pont St. Anne, Paris, 29 
 
 Pont St. Esprit, at Valence, 50 
 
 Pontac, Amaud de, account of, 
 
 349 ; his eating-house, 349 «., 
 
 43 2 
 Pontanus, Joh. Jo v., chapel of, 
 
 Naples, 92 and n. 
 
 Ponte, Francisco da (the elder 
 
 Bassano), paintings by, 36, 68, 
 
 99, T20, 362 
 
 Ponte, Giacomo da (II Bassano), 
 
 paintings by, 99, 317, 431, 440 
 Ponte, II, notice of, 114 
 Ponte Sisto, Rome, sermon at, 83 
 Pontefract Castle, 181 
 Pontius Pilate, palace of, 50 and 
 
 n. ; materials brought from his 
 
 house at Jerusalem, 77 
 Pontoise, Normandy, 38 
 Pontormo, paintings by, 58, 113 
 Pope, palaces of, Monte Cavallo. 
 
 69 and n., 82 ; Vatican, 84 ; 
 
 chapel in the Vatican, 85 ; 
 
 library, 86 ; armoury of, ib. ; 
 
 procession to St. John di 
 
 Laterano, 61, 80-81 ; his alms, 
 
 85 ; his tribute from Naples, 98 ; 
 
 procession on the Annunciation, 
 
 104 ; on Lady Day, etc., 105 ; 
 
 various ceremonies of the, 105-6 ; 
 
 burnt in effigy in London, 294 
 Pope, Alexander, his works, cited, 
 
 45 »., 200 «., 441 71. 
 Pope, Walter, verses by, 298 n. 
 Popham, Colonel, house of, 174 
 Popish Plot, by Mr. John 
 
 Pollock (1903), cited, 316 n. ; 
 
 the Plot referred to, 347 
 Porcelain, chimes of, 16 
 Porcupine, description of one, 
 
 200 
 Pordage, Mr., his excellent voice, 
 
 362 
 Pordenone, Giovanni Antoni 
 
 Licinio, paintings of, 112 
 Porphyry, siatue in, 57 
 Porta, Baccio della (called Fra 
 
 Bartolommeo di San Marco), 
 
 painting by, 112 
 Porta, Giacomo della, works of, 
 
 67, 108 
 Porta, John Baptista, 109 and n. 
 Porta Santa, at St. Peter's, Rome, 
 
 76 
 Porter, Endymion, 149 and n. 
 
 Portland, Richard Weston, Earl 
 of, Lord Treasurer, 282 ; sub- 
 scription to Greenwich Hospital, 
 
 442 n. ; his lodgings at White- 
 hall saved from the fire, 444 n. 
 
 Portman, Sir William, Duke of 
 Monmouth taken by, 375 and n. 
 
 Portmore, David Colyear, Earl 
 of, 313 n. 
 
 Porto Venere, 55 
 
 Portraits, collected by Lord 
 Clarendon, 264 and n. 
 
 Portsmouth, fortifications of, 7, 
 380, 381 ; siege (1642), 25 and n.\ 
 James II.'s visit (1685), 379; 
 infant Prince of Wales sent to 
 (1688), 408 and n. ; Town Hall, 
 380 ; Papists put in office at, 
 405 ; King of Spain lands at 
 (1704), 457 
 
 Portsmouth, Duchess of (Louise- 
 Renee de Keroualle), account 
 of, 274 and n. ; her apartments 
 at Whitehall, 302 and n. ; 
 Morocco Ambassador enter- 
 tained there, 338 ; visited in her 
 dressing-room by the King, 353 ; 
 her apartments burnt, 423 and 
 n. ; alluded to, 279, 280 and «., 
 300, 362, 364, 366 
 
 Portugal, earthquake in (1699), 
 
 448 
 Portugal, King of, Alphonso VI. 
 
 (1683), death of, 354 and «. 
 Portugallo, Arco, in Rome, 102 
 Portuguese Ambassador (1661-73), 
 
 214, 255, 289 ; (1678), 311, 323 ; 
 
 entry into London (1679), 318 
 Portus, Herculis, 52 ; Julius, 96 
 Positive, Sir (Sir Robert Howard), 
 
 367 and n. 
 Pott, Sir George, son of, 201 
 Potts, Mr., Evelyn's schoolmaster, 
 
 4 
 
 Poule, Henry, manager against 
 Viscount Stafford, 331, 332 
 
 Poussin, Nicholas, 35, 109, 155, 
 362 
 
 Povey, Mr. , notice of, 225 n. , 230 ; 
 his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 230 ; his house near Brentford, 
 246 ; alluded to, 225, 261, 303 
 
 Powell, Captain, 122; present to 
 Evelyn, 126, 189 
 
 Powell, Mr. Baron, subscription 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 
 Powell, Sir John, Justice of the 
 King's Bench, 403 and n. ; dis- 
 placed, ib. ; subscription to 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 «. 
 
 Power, Essays on the Balance of, 
 
 453 »■ 
 Powis, Mr. Baron, subscription to 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Powis, Lord, 317 and n. 
 Pozzo, Cavaliero, his collection, 
 
 79 and n. 
 Pozzuoli, 96 
 Pratolino, villa of Duke of 
 
 Florence, 114; giant rock at, 
 
 ib. and n. 
 Pratt, Mr., architect, 186 and n. ; 
 
 a Commissioner for repair of Old 
 
 St. Paul's, 247 ; built Lord 
 
524 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Allington's house at Horse- 
 heath, 271 ; Clarendon House, 
 247 n. 
 
 Praxiteles, sculptures hy, 68 and 
 »., 125 
 
 Prayer, Common, disused in the 
 English churches, 148 and n. ; 
 prohibited, 185; restricted allow- 
 ance of, 186 ; used again in 
 England, 207, 269 ; Reformation 
 of and order for, 222 and «., 
 
 417 
 
 Precepts and Sententice Pueriles, 
 Cato's, 196 n. 
 
 Prerogative Office, writing of Mr. 
 Hoare at, 150 and n. 
 
 Presbyterians in Holland, notice 
 of, 14-15 ; of Scotland, character 
 of, 420 
 
 Pressing to death, inflicted, 169 
 
 Preston, Richard Graham, Vis- 
 count, 397, 407 ; Secretary of 
 State, 407 and n. ; tried and 
 condemned, 423 and n.\ released, 
 424 
 
 Preston Beckhelvyn, manor of, 
 146, 186 
 
 Pretender, The Old, birth of, 403 
 
 Pretyman, Mr., uncle of Mrs. 
 Evelyn, 145 and n., 175, 185, 
 
 39 1 , 39 8 
 Pyetyman, Sir John, house of, at 
 
 Dryfield, 178 
 Price, Sir Herbert, 211 
 Price, Dr. John, Mystery and 
 
 Method of His Majesty's Re- 
 storation, 469 n. 
 Prideaux, Dr. Humphrey, editor 
 
 of Marmora Oxoniensia, 126 
 
 «., 304 and n. 
 Prideaux, Mr., 293 
 Priest's holes, 313 and n. 
 Priestman ; Mr., subscription to 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 «. 
 Primaticcio, Francisco, paintings 
 
 by, 37 
 Primitive Christianity (Dr. 
 
 William Cave), 324 
 Prince, of 90 guns, 239 ; burned, 
 
 244, 245, 286 m 
 Printing, invention of, 17, i8and«. 
 Printing House, the King's, at 
 
 Paris, 32 
 Prior, M., his Down Hall, cited, 
 
 126 n. 
 Pritchard (or Pritchet), Dr. John, 
 
 Bishop of Gloucester, sermons 
 
 by, 3°3» 3*8 
 Privateer of Charles II. (1649), 
 
 Privy Seal, commission for execut- 
 ing the office of (1685), 378 ; 
 proceedings of (1686-87), 387, 388, 
 
 389, 390, 39i A > 392,. 395, 39 8 , 399 
 Procession, Fete Dieu at Tours, 
 
 46 ; of the Pope to St. John de 
 
 Lateran, 80-81; of the Conserva- 
 
 tori, 83 ; of the Zitelle, 84 ; of 
 
 the Viceroy of Naples, 93 ; of 
 
 the Pope on the Annunciation, 
 
 104; ditto in Lent, 105 ; of peni- 
 
 tents on Good Friday, 106 ; of 
 the Doge of Venice, 118 ; on 
 Corpus Christi Day, Paris, 159, 
 399 ; of Louis XIV. to Parlia- 
 ment, 160; funeral of Ireton, 
 165 ; of Cromwell, 200 and n. ; 
 Restoration of Charles II., 203- 
 4, 210; at his coronation, 211 ; 
 aquatic, in honour of Catherine, 
 Queen of Charles II., 223; at 
 reception of Russian Ambas- 
 sador (1662), 225 ; of Knights of 
 the Garter at Whitehall (1667), 
 254-5 ; at proclamation of James 
 II., 365-6; of Venetian Am- 
 bassadors (1685), 386 ; at corona- 
 tion of William, 414 
 
 Prodigal Son, The, by Dr. Good- 
 man, 360 
 
 Prophecies, interpretations of, 318, 
 415, 421 
 
 Prosdocimus, first Bishop of 
 Padua, 123 and n. 
 
 Protestants, Temple des, at 
 Charenton, 36 and n. 
 
 Protestants of France, persecution 
 of, 347, 374, 382, 384, 385, 
 387, 388, 389, 39°> 39 1 , 393, 39 8 , 
 400, 401, 415, 418, 420, 421, 446 ; 
 injury to cause by capture of 
 Luxemburg (1684), 359 ; Com- 
 plaints of the Cruel Treatment 
 of (1686), 390 and n. See 
 Huguenots, Savoy, Vaudois, 
 Waldenses 
 
 Prouse, Mr., a mad Fellow of 
 Balliol, 7 
 
 Proverb on the women of Venice, 
 121 
 
 Proverbs, beautiful MS. of the, 
 176 
 
 Prujean, Sir Francis, account of, 
 214 and n. 
 
 Prussian Swallow Knife, Mira- 
 culous cure of the, by D. Lakin 
 (1642), 217 «. 
 
 Prynne, William, review of Dr. 
 Cosin s Offices, 162 and n. 
 
 Pseudodoxia Epidemica, by Sir 
 T. Browne, cited, 13 «. 
 
 Public Employment . . . preferred 
 to Solitude, by Evelyn, Intro- 
 duction, xxix, 254, 474, 476, 
 480 
 
 Puckering, Sir Henry, his seat at 
 Warwick, 179 
 
 Pule, Mr., his fine voice, 444 
 
 Pulsone,Scipione (called Gaetano), 
 paintings by, 79 
 
 Pulteney, Sir William, 265 and«., 
 418 
 
 Punteus, Jo., mountebank, 214 
 
 Puppet-play in London, 258 and «. 
 
 Purcell, Dr., 444 and n, 
 
 Purchas, his Pilgrimes alluded 
 to, Introduction, xviii 
 
 Purgatory, gates of, 95 
 
 Puteoli (Pozzuoli), 96 
 
 Putney^ schools at, 149 and ».; 
 drawings and etchings, by 
 Evelyn, ib. and «., 480 
 
 Putti (boys' heads), paintings of, 
 147, 148 and «., 151, 155 
 
 Pye, Sir Walter, 149 and n.\ seat 
 of, 177 
 
 Pyrenees, persecution of Protest- 
 ants in, 415 
 
 Pyrford Park, Mr. Denzil Onslow's 
 seat, 335 and n. 
 
 Pyrgus, or castle, at Leyden, 17 
 
 Quakers, the new sect of, igi 
 
 and «., 399 
 Quarterly Review, vol. xix., cited, 
 
 12 «.; April 1818, 22 n., Preface, 
 
 vii 
 Queensberry, Duke of, 372 
 Quentin Durward. Sir Walter 
 
 Scott, referred to, 46 n. 
 Quercei, Jacopo, sculpture by, 60 
 Question given in the Chatelet at 
 
 Paris (1651), 158 
 Quinquina, brought into use by 
 
 Mr. Tudor, 435 ; not allowed 
 
 to be given to Charles II., ib. 
 Quintin Matsys, the blacksmith, 
 
 painting by, 148 
 Quintinye's Complete Gardener, 
 
 Treatise on Orange Trees, and 
 
 Melons, translated by Evelyn, 
 
 434 n. , 480 
 Quinze-Vingts, Hospital of the, 
 
 Paris, 31 and n. 
 Quirinal, Rome, 69 
 
 Rabiniere, Rear - Admiral, his 
 death, 287 
 
 Racing at Rome, 105 
 
 Radcliffe, Sir George, 152 
 
 Radicofani, notice of, 61 and «., 
 no 
 
 Raffaelle (Raffaelle Sanzio di 
 Urbino). See Raphael 
 
 Rain, heavy or remarkable, 147, 
 169, 194, 219, 322, 340, 345, 360, 
 387, 391, 417, 425, 426, 442, 457 ; 
 absence of, 335, 359, 374 
 
 Rainbow, Dr., sermon by, 207 
 
 Raleigh, Mr. Carew, son of Sir 
 Walter, 199 
 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 171 and n. ; 
 cordial, 223 
 
 Rand, Dr. R., 5 and n. 
 
 Rand, Dr. W., 193 and n. 
 
 Ranelagh, Earl of, his subscrip- 
 tion to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. 
 
 Ranelagh, Lady, 421 ; her death, 
 426 
 
 Raphael, paintings, etc., by, 36, 
 37, 58, 61, 66, 82, 83, 84 and «., 
 99, 103, no, 112, 113, 116, 132, 
 I 55, 169, 221, 306 and «., 329, 
 345, 440 ; architecture, 113 ; his 
 burial-place, 103 
 
 Rapinus, Renatus, translation of 
 his book on Gardens, 289 and n., 
 480 
 
 Rasp-house, at Antwerp, 15 
 
 Ratcliffe, Sir George, 151 
 
 Ratcliffe, Mr., 157 , 
 
 Rattle-snakes, of Virginia, 195 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 525 
 
 Raven, a white one, 200 
 Ravensbourne Mills, Deptford, 
 
 262 
 Ray, Dr., his book on Fishes, 
 
 389 ; noticed, ib., n. 
 Ray (Rhea), Mr., on the Culture 
 
 of Flowers, 477 
 Reade, Charles, his Cloister and 
 
 the Hearth, cited, 12 n. 
 Reading, Sir Robert, 313, 356 
 Reason in Bride Animals, by 
 
 Evelyn, 476 
 Rebellion, breaking out of the 
 
 Irish, 25 and n. 
 Rebellion, History of the, Claren- 
 don's, cited, 145 «., 146 n. 
 Reccio, Andrea, mezzo-rilievo by, 
 
 123 
 Red Lion Inn, at Guildford, 171 
 
 and n. 
 Reeves, — , artist, 167 
 Re/orination, History 0/ the 
 
 (Burnet), 329 »., 334 and n. 
 Regalia, of the Pope, 85 
 Regency, debate respecting (1689), 
 
 4 12 
 Reggio, Signor Pietro, musician, 
 
 359 . 
 
 Regrets (1565), J. duBellay, cited, 
 
 45 
 Rehearsal, a farce by Duke of 
 
 Buckingham, 367 «. 
 Reigate Priory, notice of, 186 
 
 and n. 
 Relics, 27, 49 ; at Rome, 76, 77, 
 
 80, 84, 87, 88, 92, 105, 119, 120, 
 
 123, 179 ; miracles due to, 379 
 Religion, History of, etc., by 
 
 Evelyn, 400 and «., 479 and n. 
 Reliquary, at St. Mark's, Venice, 
 
 120 
 Reliquiae IVottonianee (1685), Sir 
 
 Henry Wotton, cited, 114 n. 
 Rencia, Anna, singer, 122, 128 
 Reni, Guido, paintings by, 68, 70, 
 
 79, 87 and «-, 104, 115 and «., 
 
 116, 169 
 Reresby, Sir John, notice of, 29 n. ; 
 
 references to his Memoirs and 
 
 Travels, see notes on pp. 29, 31, 
 
 35, 42, 44, 45, 46, 114. 279, 33 1 . 
 
 333, 336 337. 339, 34©, 348, 395, 
 
 407, 408 
 Restoration of Charles II., General 
 
 Thanksgiving Day, 214 and n. 
 Revels in the Middle Temple 
 
 (1642), 25 ; (1668), 261 ; Inner 
 
 Temple (1697), 443 > at Lincoln's 
 
 Inn (1662), 218 and n.\ at Court 
 
 (1662), ib.; (1668), 263 
 Review of the gens darmes at 
 
 Paris, 42 ; in Hyde Park (1663), 
 
 227 
 Reynaldo, Prince, 294 
 Reynolds, Dr. Edward, Bishop of 
 
 Norwich, sermon by, 195 and 
 
 ». ; his consecration, 208 
 Reynolds, Works of, 1798, cited, 
 
 148 n. 
 Rhea (Ray?), Mr., book on the 
 
 Culture of Flowers, 477 
 
 Rhenish Wine House (Cannon 
 
 Row?), 246 and n. 
 Rheymes, Colonel Bullein, 233, 
 
 287 
 Rhinoceros, the first in England, 
 
 360 
 Rhodes, Siege of, a tragi-comedy, 
 
 218 and n. 
 Rhodomante, Signor Paulo, of 
 
 Venice, 117 
 Rhone, River, noticed, 49, 139, 
 
 142 and «., 144 
 Rialto, at Venice, 118 
 Rich, Mr., Reader at Lincoln's 
 
 Inn, 236 
 Rich, Nathan ael, a rebel, 189 
 Rich, Sir Robert, subscription to 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Richard, St., an English King, 
 
 epitaph at Lucca, 111 and «. 
 Richard II., King of England, 
 
 murder of, 181 
 Richard III., King of England, 
 
 tomb of, 180 and n. 
 Richards, Lady, of Yaverland, 7 
 Richardson, Sir Thomas, Chief 
 
 Justice, 4 and «. 
 Richardson, — , fire-eater, feats of 
 
 288 and «., 355 and «. 
 Richelieu, Armand du Plessis, 
 
 Cardinal Due de, his villa at 
 
 Rueil, 34 and n. ; view of garden, 
 
 ib. ; palace at Richelieu, 47 ; 
 
 Palais Cardinal, 42, 152 ; noticed, 
 
 30 n. ; alluded to, 38 
 Richelieu, Duke of, 39 
 Richelieu, town, and palace at, 47 
 Richett, Mr., engraver, 171 
 Richmond, Charles Stuart, Duke 
 
 of (1663), 227 and n. ; dies Am- 
 bassador to Denmark, 295 »., 
 
 302 
 Richmond, James Stuart, Duke of, 
 
 funeral (1641), 9 
 Richmond, Duke of, natural son 
 
 of Charles II., 338, 358, 360 
 Richmond, Countess of, mother 
 
 of Henry VIII. , 183 
 Richmond, a frigate, 244 
 Richmond and Lennox, Frances 
 
 Teresa Stewart, Duchess of, 
 
 312 n. 
 Riding-schools at Paris, 42, 153 
 Ridley, Bishop, portrait, 264 n. 
 Rilie, Sir Hugh, 152 
 Rings, inflammable, 109 and «. ; 
 
 mercurial, 256 
 Ripe, near Lewes, Evelyn's farm 
 
 at, 295 
 Ripley, George, portrait, 264 n. 
 Roads, paved, in France, 42 
 Roanne, notice of, 49, 144 
 Roberts, Dr. William, Bishop of 
 
 Bangor, 206 and n. 
 Robin Hood's Well, 181 
 Robinson, Sir John, 189, 226 ; 
 
 pageant of, 224 and ». 
 Robinson's History 0/ Enfield, 
 **$ited, 304 «. 
 
 Roche Corbon, castle at, 47 
 Rochelle, La, 4 and n. 
 
 Rochester, John Wilinot, Earl of, 
 a profane wit, 274 and n. 
 
 Rochester, Lawrence Hyde, 
 Earl of, Commissioner of the 
 Treasury, 323 and n. ; a 
 favourite at Court, 342 ; made 
 Earl, 343 ; his daughter mar- 
 ried, ib. ; President of the 
 Council, 359 ; alluded to, 342 
 and «., 362, 391, 392, 395 ; Lord 
 Treasurer, 367, 391 ; his opposi- 
 tion to William and ]\lary, 
 412 ; Lord-Lieutenant of Ire- 
 land, 452 
 
 Rochester, Countess of (1664-86), 
 
 232, 37°, 392 
 
 Rochester, flight of James II. to, 
 409 and n. 
 
 Roehampton, garden at, 307 
 
 Roettier, John, the medallist, 
 312 n. 
 
 Rogers, Dr., Consul in Padua 
 University, 125 and n. ; Har- 
 veian oration of, 342 
 
 Rokeby, Mr. Justice, subscrip- 
 tion to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. 
 
 Rolls Chapel, 156 
 
 Rolsies, notice of the, 52 
 
 Roma Sotterranea, account of, 
 106 
 
 Roma Sotterranea (1632), by A. 
 Bosio, 106 and n. 
 
 Roma Triumphans, at Tivoli, 
 108 _ 
 
 Romain, St., Archbishop of 
 Rouen, 38 
 
 Roman Catholics, liberty enjoyed 
 by (1672), 285 ; (1678), banished, 
 317 ; machinations of (1686-87), 
 316 and 71., 317, 320, 390; Mass 
 publicly said, 367 ; liberty of 
 Mass refused in Scotland, 390 ; 
 allusions to, 389, 392, 395, 396 ; 
 panic at landing of Prince of 
 Orange, 408. See Papists 
 
 Roman medals, found near Ban- 
 stead, 199 and n. 
 
 Roman money, observations on, 
 
 109 
 Roman 
 
 at Cardinal 
 
 painting, 
 Borghese's, 82 
 
 Roman Temple, at Leicester, 180 
 
 Romano, Julio, paintings by, 85, 
 169, 440 
 
 Romano, Paris, 70 
 
 Rome, description of, and events 
 in (1644-45), 63-89,09-110; Far- 
 nese Palace, 63 ; Temples of 
 Peace, Jupiter, Romulus, Faus- 
 tina, 64 ; Arch of St. Severus, 
 the Capitol, ib. ; Ara Coeli, 66 ; 
 Barberini Palace, ib. ; Jesuits' 
 Church, ib. ; Medici Palace and 
 Gardens, 67 ; Chiesa Nova, ib. ; 
 Prince Ludovisi's Villa, 68 ; 
 Signor Angeloni's Collection, 
 ib. ; Monte Cavallo, and the 
 Pope's Summer Palace, 69 ; 
 Diocletian's Baths, ib. \ Fon- 
 tana delle Terme, ib. ; Church 
 
526 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 of St. Susanna, ib. ; Church of 
 Sta. Maria della Vittoria, ib. ; 
 Mont Alto's Villa, 70 ; Churches 
 of St. Agnes and St. Constanza, 
 ib. \ Via Felix, ib. ; St. Maria 
 Maggiore, ib. ; St. Pudentiana 
 and St. Prassede, 71 ; Arch of 
 Titus, ib. ; Sta. Maria Nuova 
 and Amphitheatre of Vespasian, 
 72 ; Arch of Constantine, ib. ; 
 St. Gregorio and Villa Bor- 
 
 fhese, ib. ; Obelisk dedicated to 
 ulius Caesar, 74 and n. ; St. 
 Peter's, 74-6; Crypt of St. 
 Peter's, 83 ; Baptistery of St. 
 John Baptist, 77 ; Scala Sancta 
 and Obelisk, ib. ; St. John de 
 Lateran, 78 ; Collection of 
 Cavaliero Pozzo, 79 ; St. Pietro 
 in Vincoli, 80; Procession of 
 the Pope to St. John de 
 Lateran, 80-81 ; fireworks, 81 ; 
 Jesuits' College, ib. ; Collection 
 of H. Vitellesco, 82; Cardinal 
 Borghese's Palace, ib. ; Chigi 
 Palace, 83; St. Mary's, ib. ; 
 ceremonies on Christmas 
 Eve, ib. ; Zitelle, 84 ; Ghetto, 
 and ceremony of Circumcision, 
 ib. ; the Vatican, ib. ; St. Paul's, 
 87 ; Tre Fontana, ib. ; St. 
 Cecilia's, 99 and n. ; Mons 
 Testaceus, too ; St. Maria in 
 Navicula, Horti Mathaei, ib. ; 
 St. Sebastian and Catacombs, 
 ib. ; Hospital of Pelerini della 
 S. Trinita, toi and ft.', Palace 
 of Cardinal Spada, ib. ; Palazzo 
 della Cancellaria, ib. ; Piazzo 
 Navona, ib. ; Church of the 
 Capuchins, 102 ; Pantheon, ib. ; 
 Trinita de' Monte, 103 ; St. 
 Augustine, ib. ; Mausoleum 
 Augusti, ib. ; St. Andrea della 
 Valle, ib. ; baptism of a Turk 
 and Jew, 103-4 ; Trajan's 
 Column, 104 ; St. Croce of 
 Jerusalem, ib. ; St. Laurence, 
 ib. ; Carnival, 105 ; Lent and 
 Easter ceremonies, 105 - 6 ; 
 Pope's portions to the Zitelle, 
 105 ; Roma Sotterranea, 106 ; 
 opera by Prince Galicano, 107 ; 
 Frascati, ib. ; model of Rome, 
 108 ; Cascade of the Anio, 109 ; 
 Roman coins and medals, ib. ; 
 execution at, no; extent of 
 Rome, ib. ; drawings made be- 
 tween Rome and Naples by 
 Evelyn, 480 
 
 Rome, Walks in (Hare), cited, 
 69 n., 71 n., 99 «., 100 n. 
 
 Romney, Lord, 439 and n., 452; 
 subscription to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 442 n. 
 
 Romulus', Temples of, at Rome, 
 
 6 4 
 Ronquillo, Don Pietro, visit of 
 
 Evelyn to, 334 and n. 
 
 Ronsard (Pierre de Roussard), 
 
 his burial-place, 46 and n. 
 
 Rooke, Admiral Sir George, 440 ; 
 squadron of Spanish galleons 
 taken by, 455 and n. ; sub- 
 scription to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 442 n. 
 
 Rooke, Laurence, pendulum in- 
 vented by, 247 ; account of, 
 ib. n. 
 
 Rookwood (Ruckholt) at Leyton, 
 Essex, 201 
 
 Rookwood, Sir T. , 280 
 
 Roos, Lord, divorce of, 269 and n. 
 
 Rope-dancer, called " The Turk," 
 194 and n. 
 
 Rose, Mr. (King Charles's gar- 
 dener), his English Vineyard 
 Vindicated^ 479 
 
 Roses, instances of dislike to, 270 
 and «. 
 
 Ross, Alexander, 150 and «., 171 
 
 Rosso, Giovanbattista, gallery 
 painted by, 37 and n. 
 
 Rotherham, Sir John, Serjeant- 
 at-Law, 427 and n., 430, 432, 
 441 
 
 Rotherhithe, dreadful fire at 
 (1699), 446 
 
 Rotier, Mons., the medallist, 312 
 and n. 
 
 Rotonda, a palace at Vicenza, 
 131 and n. 
 
 Rottenhammer, painting by, 148 
 
 Rotterdam, house of Erasmus at, 
 12 and n. ; fair at, 13 
 
 Rouen, bridge, 38 and n. ; Cathe- 
 dral, and Church of St. Ouen, 
 ib. and n. 
 
 Rouen , Archbishop of, palace at 
 Gaillon, 38 and n. 
 
 Round Table, King Arthur's, 25 
 
 Roundell, Mrs. Charles, her Hani 
 House cited, 120 n. 
 
 Roupel, Mons., his tincture of 
 gold, 171 and n. 
 
 Roussard, Pierre de. See Ron- 
 sard 
 
 Rousseau, his Devin du Village 
 referred to, 48 and n. 
 
 Roxalana (Mrs. Davenport), an 
 actress so called, 218 
 
 Roxburghe, Lord, drowned, 340 
 n. 
 
 Royal Charles, a ship, 245, 256 n. 
 
 Royal Exchange, London. See 
 Exchange 
 
 Royal Party, An Apology /or 
 the (1659), by Evelyn, 201 and 
 »., 476, 479 
 
 Royal Slave, a play, 462 
 
 Royal Society, origin of, 208 and 
 »., 217 ; shows Charles II. an 
 eclipse of Saturn, 213 ; incor- 
 porated, 215 and n., 222, 223 
 and n. ; mace and arms, ib., 
 223 ; Evelyn nominated on the 
 Council in 1662, 222 ; declines 
 appointment in 1666, 243 ; ihe 
 King's presents to the, 223, 229, 
 2 3°» 354 > statutes prepared, 
 223, 234 ; thank the King and 
 Lord Chancellor for the charter, 
 
 223 ; nrst anniversary, 229 ; 
 
 the, ib. ', 
 
 first 
 Mr. Balle's present to the, 
 visit of Duchess of Newcastle to 
 the, 255 and n. ; meet at Arun- 
 del House, 253 ; Chelsea Col- 
 lege given to the, 259, 265 and 
 n. ; proposed purchase of the 
 College by the King, 335 ; 
 Arundel Library given by Duke 
 of Norfolk, 314, 253 and n., 265 ; 
 Evelyn presents his Sylva, 
 224, 229, 268, 477, and Table 
 of Veins, etc., 260 and «., 454 ; 
 his gift of bricks, 262 ; College 
 for, designed at Arundel House, 
 261 ; History 0/ Chalcography 
 given to the, 221 ; History 
 of the Silkworm given to the, 
 265 ; Evelyn chosen Secretary, 
 289 ; meet again at Gresham 
 College, 294 ; Evelyn's lecture, 
 Of Earth and Vegetation, 299 
 and n. ; letters of Evelyn and 
 Cowley respecting the, 473, 474 ; 
 Cowley's Ode to, 474 and n. ; 
 regulations respecting election 
 of Fellows, 338 ; publication of 
 transactions, etc., 340 ; Morocco 
 Ambassador admitted an hono- 
 rary member, 341 ; recommend 
 Foubert's Academy, 342 ; ex- 
 periments with magnets, 346 ; 
 Evelyn's letter to, regarding the 
 great frost of 1684, 356 n. , 358 
 and n. ; Roman urn presented to, 
 383 ; Evelyn declines appoint- 
 ment as President, 343, 423, 432 ; 
 installation of Lord Somers as 
 President, 445, 452 ; letter to, 
 concerning the damage done to 
 Evelyn's gardens by storms, 
 480; allusions to the Society, 
 231, 239, 243, 247, 253, 262, 266, 
 268, 311, 324, 327, 330, 337, 340, 
 343 and «., 360, 389, 408, 446 
 
 Royal Society, Catalogue of 
 Rarities of the, Grew (168 1), 
 230 and n. 
 
 Royal Sovereign, a ship-of-war, 
 11 and n. ; burned, 439 and n. 
 
 Rubens, Sir Peter Paul, portrait 
 of Earl of Arundel, 126 ; paint- 
 ings by, 20, 21 n., 22, 23, 40, 
 431 ; his views in Genoa, 53 
 and n. 
 
 Ruby, man-of-war, launch of, 166 
 
 Ruckholt, Essex, 201 ». 
 
 Rueil, Cardinal Richelieu's palace 
 and gardens at, 34 and n. ', foun- 
 tain, 152. 
 
 Rugge's Diurnal, cited, 251 n. 
 
 Rugini, Signor, of Venice, his 
 collection, 127 
 
 Rumley, William, trial of (1679), 
 320 and «. 
 
 Rump Parliament dispersed, 202 ; 
 dissolved by Monk, 203 ; action 
 of, prior to the Restoration, 
 469 and n. 
 
 Rupert, Prince, at Oxford (1636), 
 462 ; shows Evelyn how to en- 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 5 2 7 
 
 grave in tnezzo tinto, 209 and «. , 
 210 ; alluded to, 220, 223, 227, 
 2 39> 244> 245, 252, 256, 273, 3ii 
 Russell, — , Catholic Bishop of 
 
 Cape Verde, 217 
 Russell, Colonel (uncle of Lord), 
 
 35o 
 Russell, Admiral Edward, Earl of 
 Orford (not Oxford, p. 430 «.), 
 quarrel with Lord Nottingham, 
 430 and n. ; put aside, 430 ; 
 restored, ib. n. t 432, 439 n. 
 
 Russell, Lady, her Sivalloivfield 
 and its Owners referred to, 
 383 «. 
 
 Russell, Lord William, appre- 
 hended, 348 and n. ; tried and 
 condemned, 348, 349 ; beheaded, 
 35o 
 
 Russell, William, embalming 
 practised by, 340 
 
 Russell family, possessions of, in 
 Bloomsbury, 235 
 
 Russian Ambassador, entrance of 
 (1662), 225 ; takes leave, 227 ; 
 curious water-fowl presented by, 
 to Charles II., 236; audience 
 of (1662), 226 and n. ; (1667), 
 259 \ (1681), 337 ; alluded to, 338 
 
 Rustat, Tobias, benefactions of, 
 326 and n. 
 
 Ruvigny, Henri de Massue de, 
 Marquis, Earl of Galway, 
 account of, 392 and n. ; alluded 
 to, 397. 417 ; his son, 453 
 
 Rycaut, Sir Paul, 385 and n. 
 
 Rye, Sussex, embargo at (1652), 
 167 ; church service at, ib. 
 
 Rye- House Plot, detected, 347 
 and «., 350; declaration con- 
 cerning, 351 ; thanksgiving, ib. 
 
 Rynen, Queen of Bohemia's palace 
 at, 12 
 
 Ryswyk, palace of the Prince of 
 Orange, 14 and n. ; Peace of, 
 443 and n. 
 
 Ryves, Dr. Bruno, Dean of Wind- 
 sor, sermon by, 219 and n. 
 
 S, man killed by the fall of a letter, 
 
 184 «. 
 Saavedra, Life oj Miguel de 
 
 Cervantes (Mr. Fitzmaurice- 
 
 Kelly), cited, 120 n. 
 Saba (or Sheba), effigy of Queen 
 
 of, 28 and «. 
 Sacheverell, William, at Lord 
 
 Stafford's trial, 331 and n. 
 Sacraments disused in the English 
 
 churches, 148 and «., 185 ; 
 
 neglected at Wotton, 434 
 Sacristy at St. Denis, 27 ; St. 
 
 John di Laterano, 78 
 "Sadler's Wells," Clerkenwell, 
 
 391 ». 
 Saffron Walden, Essex, famous 
 
 for saffron, 184, 272 
 Sailor, fortitude of, under amputa- 
 tion, 284 
 Sailors Word-Book, Smyth's, 
 
 cited, 24 k. 
 
 St. Agnes, at Rom«, 70 
 
 St. Albans, Henry Jermyn, Earl 
 
 of, 205 and «., 215, 222, 227, 
 
 242, 361 «., 473", house at Byfleet, 
 
 313; a blind gambler, 351 
 St. Albans, Duke of (son of Charles 
 
 II), 358, 360 
 St. Albans, Herts, 386,403 
 St. Ambrose, at Milan, 135 
 St. Ambrosio, at Genoa, 55 
 St. Anacletus, at Rome, 74 
 St. Andrea della Valle, Rome, 103 
 St. Andriano, at Rome, 64 
 St. Andrew Under-Shaft, 195 
 St. Andrew's, Holborn, 324 
 St. Angelo, Castle of, 81, 99, 148 
 St. Angelo in Pescheria, Rome, 84 
 St. Anne-in-the-Willows, Alders- 
 
 gate, 397 and n., 418 
 St. Anthony, at Padua, 123 and 
 
 n. ; Rome, 106 
 St. Athanasius, at Rome, 83 
 St. Augustine, at Rome, 103 
 St. Bartholomew, at Rome, 99 
 ^ and n. ; Hospital, London, 248 
 St. Baume, 52 
 
 St. Benedict, Ferrara, 117 and n. 
 St. Bernardo, at Rome, 69 
 St. Bride's Church, London, 322 
 St. Bridget, tomb of, at Rome, 71 
 St. Carlo, at Rome, 70 
 St. Catherine, Rouen, 38 ; nuns 
 
 of, at Padua, 128 
 Sta. Cecilia, church and bath, at 
 
 Rome, 79, 99 
 St. Celso, at Milan, 133 
 Ste. Chapelle, Paris, 31 ; at Bourges, 
 
 48 ; at Bourbon l'Archambault, 
 
 49 . . 
 
 St. Christiana, church, Bolsena, 62 
 
 St. Christopher, colossal statue 
 of, 30; Island of, 126, 279, 282, 
 283, 285 
 
 St. Chrysostom, Sir H. Savile 
 (1 610-13), 224 and n. 
 
 St. Clara, religious order of, at 
 Bois-le-Duc, 19 
 
 St. Clement's Church, London, 360 
 
 St. Clere, Mons., of Paris, col- 
 lections of, 155 and n. 
 
 St. Cloud, Paris, Archbishop's 
 palace and gardens at, 33 and 
 n. ; inn at, 34 ; references to, 
 
 151 
 Sta. Constanza, at Rome, 70 
 
 St. Cosmo, Church of, at Rome, 64 
 
 St. Cosmo, Convent of, 46 
 
 St. Croce, at Rome, described, 
 
 104 ; at Lucca, in 
 St. Croix Cathedral, at Orleans, 
 
 44 and n. 
 St. Denis, Paris, 27, 150, 156 
 St. Die, Touraine, 44 and «. 
 St. Dominic, at Naples, 92 ; at 
 
 Florence, 60; at Bologna, 115 
 St. Dunstan-in-the-East, Church 
 
 of, 392 
 St. Edme, bridge at Tours, 45 
 St. Elmo, Castle of, Naples, 91 
 
 and n. 
 St. Esprit, Pont, at Valence, 50 
 
 St. Eustorgio, Milan, 134 
 
 St. Faith's Church, London, 249 
 
 St. Flavian, Church of, 62 
 
 St. Francis, Genoa, 55 ; at Siena, 
 
 61 ; at Bologna, 115 
 St. Fredian, Lucca, in and n. 
 St. Gatien : Tours, 45 
 St. Geminiano, Venice, 119 n. 
 St. Genevieve, Paris, 31 
 St. George's Church, Hanover 
 
 Square, 425 n. ; Hall, Windsor 
 
 Castle, 346, 378 ; Chapel, 429 ; 
 
 Venice, 125 ; St. George's Day 
 
 celebration (1667), 254, 255 
 St. Georgio Maggiore, Island of, 
 
 Venice, 121, 124 
 St. Germain, English Court at, 
 
 145. i5°» 151 5 Abbey of, 144; 
 
 referred to, 159; James II. at, 
 
 409 and «. 
 St. Germain, Mons., 154 
 St. Germain, Naples, natural 
 ^ stoves of, 95 and n. 
 St. Germain-en-Laye, 33 ; palace 
 
 at, 34-5 and n. 
 St. Giacomo degli Incurabili, 
 
 Rome, 103 
 St. Giacomo degli Spagnuoli, 
 
 Rome, 102 
 St. Giles's, London, 393, 435 and n. 
 St. Giovanni, Baptistery of, Pisa, 
 
 56 ; Island of, 137 and n. 
 SS. Giovanni e Paolo, Rome, 79; 
 
 Venice, 124 
 St. Giovanni Laterano, Hospital 
 
 of, Rome, 78 and n. 
 St. Giegoiio, in Monte Celio, 72 
 St. Gregory, by St. Paul's, Lon- 
 don. i73. i86, 187, 444 ; at 
 
 Bologna, 116 
 St. Honorat, Island of, 52 
 St. Innocent's, Paris, churchyard 
 
 of, 41 and «., 56 n. 
 St. Jacomo, Venice, 119 
 St. Jacques-la-Boucherie, Paris, 
 
 41 and n. 
 St. James's, London, improvement 
 
 cf (1662), 222 ; a rebel preaching 
 
 at, 156 ; Court at (1682), 343 ; 
 
 (1686), 387; garden at, 392; 
 
 Prince of Orange at, 409 
 St. James's Chapel, 156, 305 
 St. James's Church, Piccadilly 
 
 361 and n. 
 St. James's, Library at, 356 «.. 
 
 4231 439, 443. 446 
 
 St. James's Park, skating in, 223 
 and «. ; wrestling match ii{ 
 254 ; Turkish horses in, 361 ; 
 collection of rare beasts and 
 fowls in, 236 ; Decoy in, ib. and 
 n. ; duel in, 447 
 
 St. James's Square, 324 and «., 
 
 „ 439 
 
 St. Jean, Cathedral of, at Lyons, 
 
 49 
 St. John, Church of, at Bois-le- 
 Duc, 19 and «. ; at Genoa, 55 ; 
 at Bologna, 115 ; at Beverley 
 
 St. John, Lord, 265 
 
5 2S 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 St. John, Oliver, regicide, 182 
 
 and 11. 
 St. John, Sir Walter, 232, 362 
 St. John, son of Sir Walter, mur- 
 der by, 362 and n. 
 St. John Baptist, Baptistery of, 
 
 at Rome, 77 
 St. John Calabita, Rome, 99 
 St. John the Evangelist, Chapel 
 of, at Rome, 77 ; Venice, 125 ; 
 his original Gospel, 58 
 St- John di Laterano, Church of, 
 at Rome, 77, 78-9, 106 ; pro- 
 cession of the Pope to, 61, 80-8 1 
 St. John's College, Oxford, 176 ; 
 
 Cambridge, 182 
 St. Just, cliff at Lyons, 49 
 St. Justina, Church of, at Padua, 
 
 123 
 St. Laurence in Panisperna, Rome, 
 
 71 and n. 
 St. Laurence, at Genoa, 55 ; Flor- 
 ence, 58, 113 ; Rome, 104 ; 
 Venice, 125 
 St. Lawrence, Jewry, 341 and n. 
 St. Leger, Lady, antipathy to 
 
 roses, 270 
 St. Lorenzo, Padua, 123 and 11. 
 St. Lorenzo in Lucina, 71 «. 
 St. Lorenzo in Miranda, 64 and n. 
 St. Louis, crown, etc., of ; 28 
 St. Luke, church at Venice, 124 
 St. Magdalene, at Avignon, 50 
 St. Malo, 429 n., 430 n. ; storm 
 
 at > 399 
 St. Margaret, Island of, 52 ; Fair 
 at Southwark, 206 and n. ; West- 
 minster, 219, 316, 330, 323 
 Sta. Maria, at Venice, 124 
 Sta. Maria degli Angeli. Rome, 70 
 Sta. Maria del Popolo, Rome, 103 
 Sta. Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, 
 
 72 
 Sta. Maria deUa Rotonda, 102 
 Sta. Maria deUa Vittoria, Rome, 
 
 6 9 
 Sta. Maria in Navicula, 100 
 
 Sta. Maria Maggiore, Rome, 70 
 
 and «. ; at Naples, 92 
 
 Sta. Maria Nuova, Rome, 72 
 
 Sta. Maria Scala del Cielo, Rome, 
 
 87 
 Sta. Maria Schola Graeca, 99 
 Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, Rome, 
 
 103 
 St. Mark, at Rome, 104; at 
 
 Venice, Piazza, 118 ; Church, 
 
 119 ; Tower, 121 ; Reliquary, 
 
 120 ; Lion of, ib. 
 St. Martial, Church of, at Avig- 
 non, 50 
 
 St. Martin, Church, etc., at 
 Tours, 45 : at Naples, 92 and 
 n. ; Church and Library, Lon- 
 don, 330, 357 and «., 358, 376, 
 
 394, 395. 39 6 . 397. 4°8, 425, 42 6 . 
 427, 429, 449 ; man flees for 
 sanctuary to, 397 
 St. Martin-in-the-Fields, London, 
 330 and «., 291 ; Overseers' 
 Books, cited, 258 «., 352 n. 
 
 St. Martin's Lane, London, 220, 
 
 357 »■ . 
 St. Martino, Rome, 101 
 St. Mary-le-Bow Church, 428 
 St. Mary's, Oxford, 6, 8 and «., 
 
 *75i 2 33. 26 7. z68 . 3°°; Rome, 
 83 ; Beverley, 181 ; Antwerp, 
 21 
 
 St. Maurice, Switzerland, 139 ; 
 Cathedral at Vienne, 50 
 
 St. Michael, altar-piece of, at St. 
 Peter's, Rome, 75 ; Island and 
 Church of,' Venice, 126 ; Lucca, 
 in 
 
 St. Michael, Crooked Lane, Lon- 
 don, 200 
 
 St. Michael in Bosco, Bologna, 
 115, 116 
 
 St. Nicholas, Amsterdam, 16 ; 
 Venice, 126 ; Deptford, 11 «., 
 170 and #., 185 «., 370 and n. 
 
 St. Nicholas, Fort of, Marseilles, 
 51 and H. 
 
 St. Nicholas in Carcere, 101 
 
 St. Nizier, Church of, Lyons, 49 
 
 St. Ouen, Church of, Rouen, 38 
 and n. 
 
 St. Paul, Port of, Rome, 100 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral (Old), Lon- 
 don, King's statue at, thrown 
 down, 149 ; surveyed for repairs, 
 246 and n,, 247 and n. ; destruc- 
 tion of, by fire, 247, 248, 249 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral (New), Lon- 
 don, 323, 334, 357, 435, 439, 458 ; 
 first service in (1697), 443 
 
 St. Paul's, Church of, near Rome, 
 87 ; Venice, 125 
 
 St. Paul's School, London, 438 
 
 St. Peter's, at Rome, piazza 
 before, 73 ; description of, 74-6; 
 chapels in, 75-6 and n. ; high 
 altar, 76 and n. ; ecclesiastical 
 members of, ib. ; crypt, 83 ; 
 dimensions, 116 ; service on 
 Good Friday and Easter Day, 
 106 
 St. Peter's, Ostend, 24 ; Geneva, 
 143 ; at Paul's Wharf, London, 
 148 ; Cathedral and Well at 
 York, 181 and n. 
 St. Petronius, Bologna, 115 
 St. Pietro dell' Arena, 53 and «., 
 
 55 
 St. Pietro in Vincoli, Rome, 66, 
 
 80 and n. 
 St. Prassede, Rome, 71 and n. 
 St. Prive, fountain at, 48 
 St. Pudentiana, Rome, 71 and n. 
 St. Remo, 52 
 SS. Rocco e Martino, 103 
 St. Roche, Venice, 125 
 St. Ruth, General, slain at 
 
 Aghrim, 425 and n. 
 St. Sabina, Rome, 99 
 St. Saviour, at Aix, 51 ; at Blois, 
 
 44 ; at Bologna, 115 
 St. Sebastian, at Rome, 79, 100 ; 
 
 cliff, at Lyons, 49 
 Sta. Spirito, at Florence, 58 ; 
 
 Venice, 125 
 
 St. Stephen's, at Bourges, 48 and 
 
 n. ; Pisa, 56 ; Paris, 152 
 St. Susanna, Church of, at Rome, 
 
 69 
 St. Sylvia, Rome, 79 and n. 
 St. Syrnphorien-de-Lay, village of, 
 
 49 and n 
 St. Thomas's Church, Southwark, 
 
 1 n. ; Hospital, 234, 399 
 St. Tommaso degli Inglesi, Rome, 
 
 101 
 St. Venantius, Rome, 77 
 St. Victor, Church and relic of, 
 
 Marseilles, 51 
 St. Vincent's Tower, Naples, 92 ; 
 
 Rock, Bristol, 175 and «. 
 St. Zachary, Venice, 124 
 Sadler's Wells, 391 and ». 
 Saintsbury's Caroline Poets, 
 
 261 «. 
 Sala del Conclave, 84 
 Saladine, Mons., of Geneva, 141, 
 
 142, 144 
 Salisbury, Cathedral, 177 ; Plain 
 
 and City, 178, 239 n. ; Stone- 
 
 henge, 178 
 Salisbury, Earls of, their palace at 
 
 Hatfield, 25 and n. ; Lord (1689), 
 
 alluded to, 416 and n. 
 Sallust, Caius Crispus, his Viri- 
 
 darium and gardens, 68 and «., 
 
 6 9 
 Salmasius's Defensto, 229 
 
 Salomon, Castle of, Vienne, 50 n. 
 
 Salt-houses (Salinas), at Rome, 99 
 and n. 
 
 Saltpetre, Commission for regulat- 
 ing farming, etc., of, 245 
 
 Salt-Petre, History of, Thomas 
 Henshaw, 214 
 
 Salt water, rivulet of, at Pistoia, 
 m 
 
 Saludadors of Spain, impostures 
 of, 37£ and n. 
 
 Salutation, picture and chapel of 
 the, at Florence, 112 
 
 Salvatico, physician at Padua, 
 128, 130 
 
 Salviati, Francisco Rossi (11 Sal- 
 viati), works of, 63, 101 
 
 Salvioti, Gioseppe, picture by, 
 85 n. 
 
 Samaria, head of Woman of, 87 
 
 Samaritan fountain at Paris, 29 
 and «., 155 
 
 Samuel, Mr., architect, 271 
 
 San Bernardo, mountain of, 137 
 
 Sancroft, Dr. William, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, 356, 364 and n. t 
 385, 391 and »., 392, 393, 4°4, 
 409, 416, 43s *, sermon by, 406 ; 
 a Commissioner for repair of 
 Old St. Paul's, 247 ; a Commis- 
 sioner for Ecclesiastical Affairs, 
 392 ; refuses to sit, 393 ; sent to the 
 Tower, 402 ; tried and acquitted, 
 403 ; refuses to sit with Papists 
 at a Council, 407 ; charged with 
 disloyalty, ib.\ required to pub- 
 lish a declaration of abhorrence 
 of the invasion, ib. ; meeting 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 529 
 
 of Bishops at Lambeth? 409 ; 
 Evelyn's letter to, 406 and «., 
 409 ; protests against accession 
 of William and Mary, 412, 413 ; 
 refuses to come to Parliament, 
 414 ; Evelyn's conversations 
 with, 424 ; suspended, 417 ; de- 
 prived, 424, 435 
 
 Sanctuary, man enters St. Martin's 
 Church for, 397 
 
 Sandalwood, use by dyers, 289 
 and n. 
 
 Sanders, Captain, 437 
 
 Sanderson, Dr. Robert, Bishop of 
 Lincoln, sermon by, 202 and n. 
 
 Sanderson, Sir William, 305 
 and n. 
 
 Sandford, Francis, Lancaster 
 Herald, 372 «. 
 
 Sands, travelling, account of, 310 
 
 Sandwich, Edward Montagu, 
 Lieut. - Admiral, Earl of, 239 
 and n., 240, 245, 262, 270, 277; 
 at Madrid, 264 ; President of 
 Commission of Trade, 277 ; 
 death at battle of Sole Bay, 
 286 ; his courage, 287 ; charac- 
 ter, ib. ; funeral, ib. ; charges 
 against, 241 ; presents Evelyn 
 with a Sembrador, 264 
 
 Sandwich, town of, 235 
 
 Sandys, Rev. Mr., 449 
 
 Sansovino, Jacopo, sculpture, etc., 
 by, 102, 103, 120, 121, 123 ; 
 Piazza of St. Mark by, 119 ; 
 his burial-place, ib. and «. 
 
 Santa Clara, Fra de, miracle 
 related by, 379 
 
 Santo Spirito, Church of, Flor- 
 ence, 58 
 
 Sapienza, at Siena, 60; at Rome, 
 103 
 
 Sarrazin, Jacques, painter and 
 sculptor, of Paris, 33 and n. 
 
 Sarto, Del (Andrea Vannucchi), 
 paintings by, 37, 58, 112 and «., 
 113, 198; burial-place, 112 
 
 Satires (Horace), cited, 347 
 and n. 
 
 Saturn, eclipse of, etc. (1661), 213 
 
 Saumeurs, Mons., 151 
 
 Saumur, Paul de, 160 «. 
 
 Saundus (sandalwood?), use of, 
 by dyers, 289 and «. 
 
 Savage, engraving by, 445 
 
 Savage, Dr. Henry, 6 n. 
 
 Savile, Sir George (Marquis of 
 Halifax), son of Sir Henry, 
 224 and n. 
 
 Savile, Sir Henry, 224 and «. 
 
 Saville, Countess of Monte Felrre, 
 
 35 1 
 
 Saville, Mr. Henry, Vice-Cham- 
 berlain, 269, 367 
 
 Savona, town, cape, and passage 
 
 of, 52, 53 
 Savoy, persecuted Protestants of, 
 
 collections for, 186, 418 
 Savoy, Duke of, his persecution 
 
 of Protestants, 390, 391, 415, 
 
 418, 420 ; remits his cruelties, 420 
 
 Savoy, Hospital, sick and wounded 
 lodged at, 238; French Church of 
 the, 191 and «., 246, 269; Chapel, 
 224, 345 
 
 Saxe-Gotha, Duke of, 393 
 
 Sayes Court, Deptford, Evelyn's 
 house, 145 and »., 147, 165, 
 169, 171, 344 ; garden at, In- 
 troduction, xx and »., 170 and 
 n '> 345 i church services at, 
 172, ib., 173, ib., 184; design 
 for a mole for ships in grounds 
 at, 187, 219 ; damaged by 
 storms, 199 and «., 220, 356, 
 457 ; visited by Charles II. , 
 227 ; trees planted, 229, 234 ; 
 Evelyn leaves it, 434 ; let to 
 Admiral Benbow, 441 ; Peter 
 the Great at, 444, 445 ; let to 
 Lord Carmarthen, 453 ; Crown 
 survey and lease, 207 and «., 
 209, 212, 214, 227, 282 and n. ; 
 burglary at, 226 ; later history, 
 Introduction, xxxv 
 
 Says, manufacture of, at Col- 
 chester, 190 and n. 
 
 Scala, Sancta, at Rome, 77 and n. 
 
 Scaliger, Joseph Justus, burial- 
 place, 17 ; alluded to, 346 
 
 Scaliger, Julius Caesar, statue of, 
 131 and n. ; his eulogy of 
 Verona, 132 
 
 Scaligeri, Princess of Verona, 
 monument of, 131 and n. 
 
 Scaramuccio, Italian, perform- 
 ance at Whitehall, 302 
 
 Scarburgh, Dr. Sir Charles, 170 
 and «. , 269 ; library, 436 
 
 Scarica l'Asino, 114 
 
 Sea wen, Sir William, M.P. for 
 Surrey, 459 n. 
 
 Scheldt, notice of the, 22 
 
 Schomberg, Armand Frederick, 
 Duke of, Marshal, 417 and «., 
 418 ; death, 421 
 
 Schools, various notices of, abroad, 
 17, 21, 30, 88, 125 
 
 Schools, various notices of, in 
 England, 149, 176, 193 and n. 
 See University 
 
 Schotti (or Schott), Caspar, a 
 scholar of Father Kircher, 67 
 and n. 
 
 Schryver, or Scriverius, Peter, 
 13 n. 
 
 Scipio, Africanus, statue of, 48 
 
 Sclater, Edward, curate of Putney, 
 390 and n. 
 
 Sconvelt, Nicholas, famous for 
 his lutes, 116 
 
 Scornful Lady, performance of, 
 209 and n. 
 
 Scot, Major, 203 
 
 Scot, regicide, executed, 206 
 
 Scotland, Rebellion in (1679), 319 ; 
 (1685), 373 and «., 375 ; Excise 
 and Customs given to James 
 II., 372 ; liberty of Mass refused 
 in (1686), 391 ; liberty of con- 
 science declared (1687), 395 ; 
 action of the Bishops of, at 
 
 the time of the Revolution 
 (1689), 409 ; disturbances in 
 (1689), 413 ; declares for William 
 and Mary, 415 ; Crown offered 
 on conditions, 416 ; Episcopacy 
 voted down, 417 ; Presbyterian 
 tyranny, 420 ; scarcity in (1696), 
 443 ; colony in Darien, a book 
 about it, burned, 449 ; Parlia- 
 ment votes against, ib. 
 Scotland Yard, Whitehall, 220 
 Scott, Sir Thomas, and his seat, 
 
 Scott's Hall, 227 and n. 
 Scott, Lady Catherine (daughter 
 of Earl of Norwich), 150 and 
 
 «->.i55» 156 
 Scottish Colonel at Milan, 135, 
 
 136 
 Scottish troops in France, 155 ; 
 
 Parliament against their settling 
 
 in Darien, 449 n. 
 Scotus de la Marca, painting by, 
 
 224 
 Scribes in St. Innocent's Church- 
 yard, 41 
 Scriptures, notices of ancient 
 
 copies of the, 58, 86, 143, 175, 
 
 186 
 Scroop,Adrian, regicide, executed, 
 
 206 
 Scroope, Lady, 354 
 Scrope, Sir Andrew, 226 
 Scudamore, Mr., 150, 171 
 Sculptors, in Rome, 109 ; in 
 
 Florence, 113 
 Sculptura, etc., by Evelyn (1662), 
 
 221 »., 476, 479; Introduction, 
 
 xxv 
 Sculptures. See Statues 
 Sea, destruction by, in Holland, 
 
 11 
 Sea-coal, project of charring, 191 
 
 and n. 
 Sebastian, St., painting of, 21, 66, 
 
 105 ; mosaic, at Rome, 80 and 
 
 n. ; relic of, 83 ; sepulchre, 
 
 100 ; place of beating of, 103 
 Seccombe, Mr. Thomas, Twelve 
 
 Bad Men (1894), cited, 373 «., 
 
 416 n. 
 Second sight, instance of, 379 
 Sedan chairs introduced into 
 
 England, 98 and n. 
 Sedgemoor, Battle of (1685), 375 
 Sedley, Sir Charles, 291, 387 
 
 «. ; his daughter Catherine, 
 
 Countess of Dorchester, 291 
 
 and «., 387 and n. 
 Sedum arbor -esc ens } 336 
 Selden, John, his Titles of 
 
 Honour, 186 ; executor of, 
 
 258; Marmora Arundelliana, 
 
 126 n. 
 Seleniscope, 171 and n. 
 Self-denying Act, contest about, 
 
 43o 
 Sembrador, brought out of Spain, 
 
 264 
 Sempronius, Mons., 138 and n. 
 Senatin, Mons., of Paris, 158 
 Senate, or State House, at Am- 
 
 2 M 
 
530 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 sterdam, 14 ; at Antwerp, 21 ; 
 at Brescia, 132 ; at Bruges, 
 24 ; at Brussels, 22 ; at Delft, 
 14 ; at Geneva, 142 ; at Lucca, 
 in ; at Siena, 60; at Venice, 
 L20 , at Verona, 132 
 
 Sensitive Plant, at Oxford, 176 
 and «., 214 
 
 Septalla, Signor, collection of, 135 
 
 Septizonium, Rome, 100 
 
 Septuagint Scriptures, noticed, 
 
 ^ 186 
 
 Sermon in blank verse, 236 ; an 
 hour and a half long, 324 ; read 
 from notes, 318 ; old-fashioned 
 sermon, 349-350 
 
 Sermonea, 132 
 
 Sermoneta, Da (Girolamo Sicio- 
 lante), painting by, 79 
 
 Servants, custom of making them 
 intoxicated, 177, 265 ; mysteri- 
 ous marks on arm of a servant 
 maid, 272 ; struggle with a 
 jealous youth, 301 
 
 Seven Dials, London, building of, 
 435 and 71. 
 
 Seventeenth Century Studies 
 (1897), Mr. E. Gosse, 286 71. 
 
 Severus, Septimius, Emperor of 
 Rome, arch of, 64 ; baths, 100 
 
 Sevigne, Mme. de, 409 n. 
 
 Sewers, Commission of, 200, 227, 
 
 ^ 386 
 
 Sextons, remarkable instance of 
 longevity in, 181 
 
 Seymour, Mr., 186 ; impeaches 
 Earl of Clarendon, 260 ; speech 
 on elections (1685), 373, 374 
 
 Seymour, Mr. Conyers (son of Sir 
 Edward), killed in a duel, 477 
 
 Seymour, Francis, Lord, his 
 house, 174 and n. 
 
 Seymour, Sir Edward, 431, 447 ; 
 notice of, 454 
 
 Sfondrato, Cardinal Francisco, 
 church built by, 99 
 
 'S Hertogenbosch, or 'S Bosch 
 (Bois-le-Duc), 19 
 
 Shad well's comedy, The Sullen 
 Lovers, 367 n. 
 
 Shaen, Sir James, 303 
 
 Shaftesbury, Anthony Ashley 
 Cooper, Earl of, 264, 292 and 
 n. ; President of Council for 
 Plantations, 288, 289 ; anecdote 
 of Lord Clifford related by, 
 293 ; crafty conduct of, 549 
 
 Shakespeare, William, illustra- 
 tions from his plays, 13 »., 
 
 Glossary, cited, 
 Samuel, surgeon, 
 
 121 «. 
 
 Shakespeare 
 102 n. 
 
 Sharp, Mr. 
 288 «. 
 
 Sharp, Dr. John (afterwards 
 Archbishop of York), noticed, 
 391 n. ; suspended for preaching 
 against Romanists, 391, 293 ; 
 sermon before the Commons 
 (1689), 411 ; other sermons by, 
 433> 440 
 
 Shaw, Sir John, house at Eltham, 
 
 231 and 71. 
 Sheen, Abbey of, 313 and «. ; Sir 
 
 Charles Littleton's house at, 401 
 Sheep, a remarkable, 173 
 Sheere, Mr. Duncomb's house at, 
 
 3°7 
 
 Sheerness, arsenal at, 245; forti- 
 fied, 257 and «., 284; curiosities 
 dug up at, 262 
 
 Sheldon, Dr. Gilbert, Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, 209 ; theatre, 
 etc., at Oxford, built by, 232, 
 266 ; alluded to, 212, 220 «., 
 228, 236, 240 ; sermon by, 209 ; 
 monument, 451 and n. 
 
 Sheldon, Mr. (nephew of Arch- 
 bishop), his house, 313 
 
 Sheldon, Mr. Edward, 432^ 
 
 Sheldon, Ralph, collection of 
 medals, 360 
 
 Sherard, Lord, 270 
 
 Sheriffs of Counties, their re- 
 tinue, 4 
 
 Sherlock, Dr. William, 385 and n. 
 
 Sherwin, Mr., trial with Sir 
 Walter Clarges, 451 
 
 Sherwood Forest, notice of, 180 
 
 Sherwood (or Sherrard) Street, 
 Piccadilly, M. Foubert's Aca- 
 demy in, 336 n. 
 
 Ship of 96 guns built by Crom- 
 well, 185 
 
 Shipbuilding, art of, 339 ; plans 
 for improving, 11, 217, 298 
 
 Ship-money, tax of, n and n., 
 
 439 
 
 Ships, captured (1665), 239 ; curi- 
 ous models of, 17, 207 ; at Venice, 
 124 ; destroyed in war, etc., 
 236, 244, 245 ; one with two 
 keels, 217, 298 
 
 Shipwreck, wonderful story of a, 
 
 53 
 Shirley, James, his You7ig Ad- 
 
 7niral, 225 n. 
 Shirley, Mrs., 201 
 Shish, Jonas, vessel built by, 261 ; 
 
 account of, ib. and «., 326 and «. 
 Shish, John, vessel built by, 345 
 
 and n. 
 Shoes, various fashions of, 268 
 Shooter's Hill, mineral waters at, 
 
 447 and 71. 
 Shore, Sir Bartholomew, 367 n. 
 Short, Dr., consulted by Charles 
 
 II., 435 . 
 
 Shotover, Sir Timothy Tyrell's 
 house at, 232, 300 
 
 Shrewsbury, Duke of, a Com- 
 missioner for Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 437 ; his subscription, 
 442 n. ; retires from Lord 
 Chamberlainship, 450 ; his 
 office at Whitehall burned, 444 
 
 Shrewsbury, Charles Talbot, 
 Earl of, 321, 432 n. 
 
 Shrewsbury, Anna Maria, Coun- 
 tess of, 282 and n. 
 
 Siam, Embassy from, 360 
 
 Sibbald, Sir Robert, 391 and n. 
 
 SibylA of Cumse, 96 
 Sibylla Tiburtina, Temple of, 109 
 Siciliano, Jacomo, painting by, 69 
 Sicily, earthquake in (1693), 430 
 Sick and Wounded, and Prisoners 
 of War, Commissioners ap- 
 pointed, 233; their seal, etc., 
 234 ; proceedings of the Com- 
 missioners, ib., 283 ; Evelyn 
 renders his account respecting, 
 400, 402 
 Sidney, Algernon, apprehended, 
 348 and n. ; beheaded, 354 ; 
 character, 349, 355 ; alluded to, 
 
 .354. 356 
 
 Sidney, Lady Dorothy (Waller's 
 Sacharissa), 169 and n. 
 
 Sidney, Henry, Lord, Governor 
 in Ireland, 422 ; noticed, ib., n. ; 
 Secretary of State, 423 ; Master 
 of Ordnance, 432 
 
 Sidney, Sir Philip, 168 ; portrait, 
 264 «. ; Crown permit to travel 
 abroad, Introdt<ction, xix and n. 
 
 Sidney, Colonel Robert, alleged 
 father of the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, 377 and n. 
 
 Sidney Sussex College, Cam- 
 bridge, 183 
 
 Siena, account of, 60 ; towers of, 
 ib. ; courts of, ib. ; University, 
 ib. ; Church and Cathedral, 60- 
 61, no; Hospital, 61; St. 
 Francis's Church, etc., ib. 
 
 Siena, Baltazzar di, arch by, 60 
 
 Sights-man at Rome, 63 and n. 
 
 Silk stockings, engine for weav- 
 ing, 211, 212 71. 
 
 Silkworm, History of the, by 
 Malpighi, 265 
 
 Silver bedsteads, 54 ; services, 59 ; 
 bells, 17 ; cross, 92 ; shrine, 99 
 and n. ; lamps, 59 ; tables, 54 
 and n. 
 
 Silvestre, Israel, 34 «. ; engrav- 
 ings by, 34 
 
 Simon, Thomas, medal engraver, 
 etc., 171 and n. 
 
 Simony, charge of, 443 and «. 
 
 Simplon, Mount, 138 and «., 
 139 
 
 Simpson, Mr., agate cup in his 
 possession, 185 
 
 Singers in Rome, 109 
 
 Sion, Earl of Northumberland's 
 seat, 239 and «., 427 n. 
 
 Sion, Switzerland, 139, 140 
 
 Sirani, Isabella, painter, 116 
 and n. 
 
 Sissac, Marquis de, losses at play, 
 305 
 
 Sixtus IV., Pope, his statue. 76 
 
 Sixtus V., Pope, horses on Monte 
 Cavallo repaired by, 69 and «. ; 
 aqueduct, 69 ; chapel, 70 ; Con- 
 stantine's pillar re-erected by, 
 77 ; Vatican partly built by, 
 84 ; destroys the Septizonium, 
 100; Augustine obelisk set up 
 by, 74, 103 and n. ', statue of St. 
 Peter on Trajan's column, 104 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 53i 
 
 Skates, introduction of, into Eng- 
 land, 225 «. 
 
 Skinners' Company, 237 n. 
 
 Skippon, Sir Philip, his account 
 of Wotton's early talents, 319 «. 
 
 Sky, remarkable appearance in 
 (1643), 25 ; (1680), 333 
 
 Slaning, Sir Nicholas, marriage, 
 224 
 
 Slaves, galley, at Marseilles, 51 ; 
 at Leghorn, 57 
 
 Slayer, Dr., chemical experiment 
 by, 386 
 
 Slingsby, Mr., Master of the 
 Mint, 223 ; Commissioner for 
 repair of Old St. Paul's, 247 ; 
 house at Burrow Green, 271 
 and n. ; Secretary to Council 
 for Trade, 277 ; a lover of music, 
 297, 323 ; alluded to, 225, 305, 
 312, 322, 360 ; decayed circum- 
 stances, 400 
 
 Slingsby, Sir Arthur, goes to 
 Paris, 150 ; his lottery, 230 ; 
 character, 231 ; Governor of 
 Portsmouth, 380 and n. 
 
 Sloane, Sir Hans, Secretary and 
 later President of Royal Society, 
 account of, 423 «. ; his collec- 
 tion, 394 «., 423 and n. ; alluded 
 
 to, 445 
 Small-pox, ravages of, and deaths 
 from (1646), 141 ; (1660), 208 ; 
 •(1683), 355; (1685), 367, 369, 
 378, 379; (1686), 389; (1694), 
 434, 436 ; (1700)451, 452 ; (1702), 
 
 455 ; (1703), 456 ; (1704). 458 . 
 
 Smith, Professor G. Gregory, his 
 Pepys' Diary, cited, Introduc- 
 tion, xxvii ; 318 n., 422 «. 
 
 Smith, Mr. (Commissioner of 
 Treasury), subscription to 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 ?u 
 
 Smith, John, Speaker of the 
 House of Commons, 459 and n. 
 
 Smith, Sir Jeremiah, bravery of, 
 291 and n. 
 
 Smith, Sir T., portrait, 264 ». 
 
 Smith's Dictionary of Antiqui- 
 ties, cited, 70 n. 
 
 Smithfield, woman burned in 
 (1652), 167 
 
 Smyrna, earthquake at, 405 
 
 Smyrna Fleet, attack on (1672), 
 283, 286, 293, 327 
 
 Smyth's Sailor's Word ■ Book, 
 cited, 24 «• 
 
 Smythe, Robert, 169 and n. 
 
 Snake, Virginian rattle-snake, 195 
 
 Snape, Andrew, King's farrier, 
 father of Dr. Snape, 345 and n. 
 
 Snatt, Edward, schoolmaster at 
 Southover, 4 and n. ; his son 
 a non-juring clergyman, 440 
 and «. 
 
 Snows in the Alps, 137, 139 
 
 Snow-water, its effects in the Alps, 
 138 and n. 
 
 Snyders, paintings by, 36 
 
 Soames, Sir William, Ambas- 
 sador to Constantinople, 378 
 
 Sobieski, John, King of Poland, 
 relieves Vienna (1683), 352 and «. 
 
 Society for Propagating the 
 Gospel, 455 and n. 
 
 Soho Square, London, 417 
 
 Soissons, Count de, 471 
 
 Solan geese, notice of, 236 
 
 Soldiers, spoliations of the Parlia- 
 mentary, 181 ; quartering of, in 
 private houses, 377 ; frozen to 
 death (1697), 443 
 
 Sole Bay, defeat of Dutch fleet at 
 (1665), 238 and n. ; (1672), 286 
 and n. 
 
 Solitude, Essay on, by Sir George 
 Mackenzie, answered, Intro- 
 duction, xxix, 254 and «., 474 
 
 Solomon, Proverbs of, exquisitely 
 written, 176 and n. 
 
 Solotnon {King- Salomon), a cap- 
 tured Dutch ship, 237 and «. 
 
 Somers, John, Lord, made Lord 
 Keeper, 431 and n. ; subscrip- 
 tion to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. ; elected President of 
 the Royal Society, 445 ; charge 
 brought by Parliament against, 
 449 «., 450 and n. ; seals taken 
 from him, 450 ; his talents, ib. ; 
 continued President of Royal 
 Society, 452 ; trial of, 453 ; 
 Evelyn presents his Acetaria 
 to, 448 
 
 Somerset, Duke of, estate left to, 
 458 and n. 
 
 Somerset, Lady Anne, 281 and n. 
 
 Somerset, Lord John, 101 
 
 Somerset, Thomas, Viscount, 63 
 
 Somerset House, 200, 304, 394, 
 469 ; representation of the Last 
 Supper at, 285 ; residence of 
 Queen Catharine, 371 and «. 
 
 Soranzi, J., monument of, at 
 Venice, 119 
 
 Sorbieres, M. Samuel de, his ac- 
 count of England, Introduc- 
 tion, xxiii and n. 
 
 Sorbonne, Paris, account of, 30 
 
 South, Dr. Robert, 229 and n., 
 266, 392 ; sermons by, 229, 312 
 
 South Mailing, consecration of 
 church at, 3 ; impropriation 
 sold, 146 
 
 Southampton, Thomas Wrio- 
 thesley, Earl of, notice of, 190 
 and n. ', alluded to, 229, 231, 
 235, 292 
 
 Southampton House, Chapel, 235, 
 270 
 
 Southcott, Sir John, 159 
 
 South - Eastern France, Hare 
 
 (1890), cited, 50 «. 
 Southey, his writings cited, 12 «., 
 21 «., 22 «., 141 n. ; reviews the 
 Diary, Preface, vi, Introduc- 
 tion, xxxviii 
 Southover, Sussex, free school at, 4 
 Southwark, Fair at, 206 and «., 
 429 ; Bear Garden, 270 and n. ; 
 fire at, 417 
 Southwell, Sir Robert, President, 
 
 etc., of Royal Society, 299 «., 
 423, 432, 445 ; his lecture on 
 Water, 299 ; Envoy to Branden- 
 burg, 326 
 
 Soutman, Peter, engraving by, 
 134 n. . 
 
 Sovereign, ship-of-war, built, 11 
 
 Spa Wells ("Sadler's Wells"), 
 391 and n. 
 
 Spada, Cardinal, palace of, 101 
 
 Spain, King Charles III., visit to 
 England, 457 and n. 
 
 Spain, Queen of, catafalco of, 102 
 
 Spain and Portugal, arbitration 
 between, 243 
 
 Spalding, Lincolnshire, 304, 306 
 
 Spanheim, Ezekiel, 303 and n. 
 
 Spanish Ambassador at Venice, 
 129 ; in England, 3, 206, 239 ; 
 encounter with French Ambas- 
 sador in London (1661), 215, 
 470-73; his house pillaged, 
 408 and «. 
 
 Spanish costume, a bugbear in 
 Paris, 31 and n. ; described, 55 
 and n. ; affected at Naples, 98 
 
 Spanish galleon, weighed up near 
 Hispaniola, 398 ; taken at Vigo, 
 455 and n. 
 
 Spanish passport, form of, 129, 137 
 
 Sparrow, Bishop Anthony, sermon 
 by, 290 and n. 
 
 Spartacus, 94 
 
 Speed, John, his map of Surrey, 
 242 «. 
 
 Spellman, Mr. (grandson of Sir 
 Henry), 208 
 
 Spencer, Charles, younger son of 
 Earl of Sunderland (afterwards 
 Earl), 405 and «., 459 
 
 Speilcer, Colonel, 206 
 
 Spencer, Lady Ann, marriage, 
 400 ; alluded to, 405 
 
 Spencer, Lord (son of Earl of 
 Sunderland), intended marriage 
 of, 334 and n. ; character, il>., 
 404 and «. ; alluded to, 159, 
 422, 436; marriage, 436, 456; 
 library, 446 and n. 
 
 Spencer, Martha, married Eve- 
 lyn's son, 323 and »., 324 
 
 Spencer, Mr., 169 and «., 190, 267 
 
 Spencer, Robert, 300 
 
 Spenser, Edward, portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Speroni, Sperone, monument of, 
 125 and n. 
 
 Spinario, The, statue at Rome, 
 65 and n. 
 
 Spin-house at Amsterdam, 14 
 
 Spinola, Marquis, river cut by, 
 24 ; gardens, 55 
 
 Spinoza, A nimadversions upon, 
 by Evelyn, 479 
 
 Spleen, Green's, quoted, Intro- 
 duction, xxi «. 
 
 Sponsalia, the Roman, painting 
 of, 82 
 
 Sports of Geneva, Switzerland, 
 
 143 
 Spragge, Admiral Sir Edward, 
 
 283 
 
532 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 Sprat, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of 
 Rochester, Introduction, xxiii 
 «., 267 and n., 393 and «., 473 ; 
 his preaching, 302, 323, 330, 
 345) 37 2 > Dean of Chapel Royal, 
 387 ; Dean of Westminster, 355 ; 
 Commissioner for Ecclesiastical 
 Affairs, 392 ; resigns, 405 ; his 
 form of prayer on the Prince's 
 birth, 404 ; History of Royal 
 Society, 22.3 n. 
 
 Spring Gardens, Whitehall, T49, 
 173 and n. , 177 n., 198; New 
 Spring -Garden, at Lambeth, 
 214 and n. 
 
 Springs near Tours, 46 
 
 Spye Park, Sir Edward Bayn- 
 ton's seat, 177 
 
 Squerryes, at Westerham, Kent, 
 172 and «., 199 and «. 
 
 Stafford, P., Superior of English 
 Jesuits, 101 
 
 Stafford, William Howard, Vis- 
 count, 270 and 71. ; antipathy to 
 roses, ib. ; committed for Popish 
 Plot, 317 andtt., 318 ; trial, 331-3 
 and n. ; behaviour at his trial, 
 ib. ; beheaded, 333 
 
 Staffordshire, Natural History 
 of, Dr. Plot's, 300 
 
 Stag, remains of a gigantic, 45 
 and n. 
 
 Staircase, at Chambord, 44 and n. ; 
 at Amboise, 45 n. ; Scala Sancta, 
 77 ; in the Vatican, 84 ; at 
 Wilton, 177 ; New Hall, 191 ; 
 Euston Hall, 280; Cliveden, 
 321 ; Ashtead, 358 
 
 Staley, William, executed (1678), 
 317 and n. 
 
 Standish, Dr., 378 
 
 Standsfield, John and Eleanor, 
 grandparents of Evelyn, i, 3, 
 
 157 
 
 Standsfield, Eleanor, mother of 
 Evelyn. Sec Evelyn 
 
 Stanhope, Charles, Lord (1650), 
 154 and »., 157 
 
 Stanhope, Dr. George, discourses 
 of, 433 and«., 439 
 
 Stanhope, Lady, 305 
 
 Stanhope, Mr., Gentleman Usher, 
 270 
 
 Stanley, Colonel, fire at White- 
 hall began at his lodgings, 
 
 444 n - 
 Stanley, Mr., 202 and n. ; killed 
 
 in a duel, 388 
 Stapleton, Colonel, Governor of 
 
 St. Christopher's, 285 
 Stapleton, Sir Robert, translator 
 
 of Juvenal, 173 and n. 
 Star-Chamber, meetings in, 246, 
 
 247, 259, 285 
 Stationers' Company, their loss 
 
 in the Great Fire (1666), 249 
 Statues and sculptures, notices of 
 
 various, Delft, 14 ; Leyden, 18 ; 
 
 Antwerp, 20 ; Brussels, 23 ; 
 
 Ghent, ib. ; Paris, 29, 30, 31, 
 
 32 and «. ; Tuileries, 33 ; St. 
 
 Cloud, ib. ; St. Germain, 35 
 Fontainebleau, 37 and __ «. 
 Orleans, 43 ; Blois, 44 ; Riche 
 lieu, etc., 48; St. Michael, 51 
 Genoa, 54 ; Pisa, 56 ; Leghorn 
 57 ; Florence, ib., 58-60 and n. 
 Siena, 60; Rome, 63-71, 73, 74 
 76, 77, 80, 81, 82, 86, 87, 88 
 Florence, 111-12 ; Bologna, 114 
 Ferrara, 117; Venice, 119, 125 
 Mantua, 126 ; Verona, 132 
 Milan, 133 ; speaking statues 
 176-7 and n. ; Guy of Warwick 
 179 ; Colchester, 190 ; Dr 
 Harvey, 224 ; Nonsuch House 
 242 and n. ', Whitehall Chapel 
 
 394 
 Stawell, Sir Edward, 159 
 Steele's Funeral (1701), cited, 
 
 340 n. 
 Steenwyck, Henry, paintings by, 
 
 22, 36, 147, 148, 173 
 Steeples, ascent of, recommended, 
 
 41 n. ; of Old St. Paul's, 247 
 
 and n. 
 Steinman Steinman, G., Memoir 
 
 of Lady Castlemaine, 261 n. 
 Stephen, King of England, his 
 
 tomb, 178 and n. 
 Stephen, St., 105 ; relic of, 120 
 Stephen, Sir Leslie, Introduction, 
 
 xxxviii 
 Stephens, Mr., 300 
 Stephens, Mr., cousin of Evelyn, 
 
 150, 171, 178, 192 
 Stephens, William, sermon on 
 
 30th January, 449 and n. 
 Stern, John, 336 n. 
 Sterne, Dr. Richard, Archbishop 
 
 of York, 428 and n. 
 Stewart, Dr., Dean of St. Paul's, 
 
 159 and n., 160, 161 n. ; death, 
 
 163 
 Stewart, Frances Teresa, Duchess 
 
 of Richmond and Lennox, 295 
 
 n., 312 n. 
 Stidolph, Lady, 312 
 Stidolph, Sir F., house at Mickle- 
 
 ham (Norbury Park), 186 and n. 
 Stillingfleet, Dr. Edward, Bishop 
 
 of Worcester, 324, 401, 427 ; 
 
 library, 446 
 Stockings, engine for weaving 
 
 silk, 212-13 n. 
 Stokes, William, dancing- and 
 
 vaulting - master, book by, 7 
 
 and n. 
 Stokes, Dr. David, 184 and «., 263 
 Stokes, Dr., 191 
 Stone, operation for the, 153, 265, 
 
 269, 297 and n. 
 Stone, Sir Robert, 13 
 Stonehenge, description of, 178 
 Stonehouse, Lady, 323, 324, 428 
 Stonehouse, Sir John, 323, 324 
 Stones, Discourse on, by Evelyn, 
 
 476 and n. 
 Stoope, Mons., speech of, 204 
 Storey, Edward, of Storey's Gate, 
 
 London, 237 n. 
 Storms (1643), 26 ; (1652), 169 ; 
 
 (1658), 198, 199; (1662). 219; 
 
 (167 1), 279 ; (1686), 39 1 ; ( l68 7 X 
 
 397> 399; (1689), 416; (1690), 
 
 417 ; (1691), 425 ; (1692), 429 ; 
 
 (1694), 432 ; (1697), 443 ; (1701), 
 
 452 ; (1703), 457 
 Stoves, of St. Germain, 95 ; in 
 
 Germany, 187 
 Strada, Famianus, notice of, 81 
 
 and «. 
 Strada del Corso, 102 
 Strada Nova, at Genoa, 55 and n. 
 Strada Pontificia, 102 
 Strada Romana, at Siena, 60 
 Stradling, Dr. George, 228, 305 
 
 and n. 
 Stradling, Sir William, 13 
 Strafford, Thomas Wentworth, 
 
 Earl of, trial and execution, 7, 
 
 9 and «., 10, 331-3 
 Strafford, William, Lord, son of 
 
 the preceding, 159 and n. 
 Strand, the, 220 
 Straw, for brick-making, 328 
 Strawberry Hill, painting at, 214 n. 
 Streater, Robert, paintings by, 
 
 23°. 2 75. 288 and «., 321, 342 ; 
 
 tormented with the stone, 297 
 
 and n. ; notice of, 230 n. 
 Streets, etc., of London, Commis- 
 sion for regulating, etc., 200, 
 
 220, 222, 227 
 Strickland, Sir Thomas, 279 
 
 and n. 
 Stringfellow. Mr., minister of 
 
 Trinity Chapel, 425, 433, 435 ; 
 
 dismissed, 449 
 Strong, Frederick, his Catalogue 
 
 cited, Preface, v and «. 
 Strood, Sir Nicholas, 231 
 Stroode, Col. , Lieutenant of Dover 
 
 Castle, 235, 238 n. 
 Stuart, James, Francis Edward, 
 
 the "Old Pretender," birth of, 
 
 403, 405 and n. 
 Stuart, Lady Catharine, 295 «. 
 Sturbridge Fair, 183 and n. 
 Subsidy to Charles II., Commis- 
 sion about the, 276 
 Subterranean rivers, 142 
 Suburbs of Paris, 29 
 Sudarium of St. Veronica, 75, 105 
 Suffolk, etc., Murray's Handbook, 
 
 cited, 271 n., 282 n. 
 Suffolk, Countess of (1674), 297 
 Suffolk, Thomas Howard, Earl 
 
 of, 184, 458 
 Suffolk House, near Charing 
 
 Cross, 184 and «., 198; Suffolk 
 
 Street, 282 and n. 
 Suicide, an amorous servant 
 
 attempts, 301 ; numerous cases 
 
 of, 432 # 
 Suidas, ancient MS. of, 446 
 Sullen Lovers, The, Shadwell's 
 
 comedy, 367 «. 
 Sulphur, manufactory of, 95 
 Sun, eclipse of (1652), 167 ; (1699), 
 
 447 ; (1664), transit of Mercury, 
 
 232 
 Sunday, observance of, 14871., 156 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 533 
 
 Sunderland, Earl of, his widow 
 (1652), 169 and n. 
 
 Sunderland (Lady Ann Spencer), 
 Countess of, alluded to, 280 and 
 «., 288, 303, 317, 322, 326, 334, 
 
 35°. 37°, 372, 394. 4<M> 4°°\ 4 l6 » 
 424, 441 ; match for her son 
 proposed by, 334 ; her character, 
 405 ; letter to, Introduction, 
 
 XI 71. 
 
 Sunderland, Lord, Ambassador to 
 Spain (1671), 279 and «., and 
 France (1672), 288 ; his seat at 
 Althorp, 301 and n., 404; Vor- 
 sterman's view of it, 311; Sec- 
 retary of State, ib. ; conduct 
 respecting Lord Ossory, 326 ; 
 sunk by gaming, 334 ; President 
 of the Council, 385, 388 J Com- 
 missioner for Ecclesiastical 
 Affairs, 392 ; Knight of the 
 Garter, 397 ; marriage of his 
 daughter, 400 ; renounces Pro- 
 testantism, 404 and n. ; the 
 seals taken away from, 406 
 and n. ; pardoned, ib. ; flight 
 to Holland, 408 and «., 409; 
 his return, 424 ; library, 436 ; 
 entertains William III., 439; 
 obnoxious to the people, to. ; 
 alluded to, 321, 346, 362, 378, 
 
 445 . . 
 
 Supper, Paschal, represented in 
 
 waxwork, 285 ; of Leonardo da 
 
 Vinci, 134 
 Surinam, English prisoners at, 
 
 296, 297 
 Surrey, separate Sheriff given to, 
 
 1,4; address to the Parliament 
 
 (1648), 146 ; to the King (1681), 
 
 ?;35 ; contested election for 
 1685), 371 ; (1697), 443 ; par- 
 ticulars of, furnished by Evelyn 
 for Camden's Britannia, 436 
 and n. ', Evelyn's courts in, 454 
 
 Surrey, Aubrey's account of, cited, 
 257 «., 480 
 
 Surrey, Murray's Handbook, 
 cited, 142 n., 259 «. 
 
 Surrey, History ^(Brayley), re- 
 ferred to, 2 n., 4«., 5«., 168 «., 
 240 n. 
 
 Surrey, History of (Manning and 
 Bray), referred to, 232, 336 n., 
 362 n., 371 «., 400 «., 417 «., 
 430 n. 
 
 Susorius, St. , body of, 61 
 
 Sussex, separate Sheriff given to, 
 1, 4 ; address to the King, 204 
 
 Sussex, Countess of, daughter of 
 Charles II., 306 and «., 338 
 
 Sussex, Earl of, 210 
 
 Sussex, Thomas Ratcliffe, Earl 
 Qf(temj>. Queen Elizabeth), 191 
 
 Sutton, Sir Edward, 263 
 
 Sutton, founder of the Charter 
 House, London, 193 n. 
 
 Sutton in Shere, Mr. Hussey's 
 house, 273 and n. 
 
 Swallowfield, Berkshire, 383 and 
 n. 
 
 Swallowfield and its Owners 
 (1901), Lady Russell, referred 
 to, 383 n. 
 
 Swallows of the Mole at Dork- 
 ing, 142 and n. 
 
 Swearing, declaration against, set 
 forth, 418, 450 
 
 Sweate, Dr., Dean of the Arches, 
 228 
 
 Sweden, Christina, Queen of, 330 
 and n. ; climate of, ib. 
 
 Swedish Ambassador, Narrative 
 oj what passed at the Landing 
 of, Evelyn, 215-16 and »., 479 ; 
 audience of (1668), 261 
 
 Swiss Guards of France, 160, 161 
 
 Swift, Dean, Windsor Prophecy 
 (17 11), cited, 336 n. 
 
 Switzerland, travelling in, 137 ; 
 vexatious adventure in, 138 ; 
 snow in the mountains of, 139 ; 
 fertility of, ib, ', the Rhone and 
 Rhine, ib., 142; chamois goats, 
 140 ; Martigny, ib. ', persons, 
 manners, and language of the 
 Swiss, ib. ; St. Maurice, ib. ; 
 Lake of Geneva, 141 ; Sports of 
 the Campus Martius, 142 ; Pro- 
 testants flee to, 418 
 
 Sydenham, medicinal spring at, 
 302 and n. 
 
 Sydserff, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of 
 Galloway, sermon by, 154 and 
 «., 162 n. 
 
 Sylva, or a Discourse of Forest 
 Trees, by Evelyn, 224, 225, 
 229 and «., 476, 479 ; title, 224 
 «., 229; second edition, 268; 
 third edition, 476; other edi- 
 tions, 479; thanked for it by 
 Charles II., 229; alluded to, 
 Introduction, xxvi, xxix, xxxv, 
 225, 257, 345 «., 416 
 
 Sylvius, vEneas, 60, 61 
 
 Sylvius, Sir Gabriel and Lady, 
 
 2S3i 3© 1 »-i 3 ID and «■• 3 IJ > 345 J 
 
 his mission to Denmark, 374 
 Symonds' Sidney, cited, Jntro- 
 
 duction, xix 
 Synagogue at Amsterdam, 14. 
 
 See Jews 
 Syon House, Isleworth, 239 and 
 
 «., 427 and «. 
 
 Tabema Meritoria of the Romans, 
 
 Tables, silver, 54 and «. 
 
 Tabulce Eveliniance, 129, 170, 
 
 260, Introduction, xvi 
 Tacking of Bills to Money Bill, 
 
 contest between Lords and 
 
 Commons, 450 
 Tadcaster, noticed, 181 
 Tain, 50 
 Talbot, Sir Gilbert, Master of the 
 
 Jewel House, 223 ; alluded to, 
 
 288 
 Talbot, Sherrington, killed in a 
 
 duel, 375 
 Talbot, Sir John, 375 
 Tangier given to the English 
 
 (1661), 217 ; expedition to, 326 
 and «., 358 ; Peace at, 337 
 
 Tankerville, Earl of, 348 «. 
 
 Tapestry at Hampton Court, 221 ; 
 at Duchess of Portsmouth's, 
 353 ; at Milan, 133 
 
 Tar, use of, for embalming, 340 n. 
 
 Tarare, notice of, 49 
 
 Targoni, Pomp., altar by, at 
 Rome, 78 and «. 
 
 Tatham, John, pageants by, 216 
 «., 223 n. 
 
 Tatler, The, cited, 366 n. 
 
 Taurisco, sculptor, 64 
 
 Tax money, robbery of (1692), 429 
 
 Taxes during the Common- 
 wealth, 187, 206 ; names of tax- 
 payers read in church, 438 
 
 Taxus, or Deadly Yew, in 
 
 Taylor, Miss L A., Life of Hen- 
 rietta Maria, cited, 49 n. 
 
 Taylor, Bishop Jeremy, Evelyn's 
 spiritual adviser, 185 ; his work 
 on Original Sin, 186 ; disputes 
 with M. le Franc, 189 ; his 
 Cases of Conscience, 193 and «.; 
 sermons by, 173 and n., 185, 
 197 ; letter to Evelyn on the 
 
 ' death of his son Richard, 462 ; 
 various allusions to, 189, 194, 
 197, 324 and «., Introduction, 
 xxii and n. 
 
 Taylor, Captain, case against 
 Lord M ordaunt, 252-3 and n. 
 
 Taylour, Charles, account of the 
 finding of St. Edward's Cross, 
 379-80 »., 475 
 
 Teignmouth, French troops landed 
 at, 422 and n. 
 
 Tempest, The, cited, 138 n. 
 
 Tempesta, Antonio, work of, 77 
 
 Temple, Mr., 442 
 
 Temple, Mrs., 401 and «. 
 
 Temple, Lady Purbeck, trial with 
 her nephew, Mr. Temple, 442 ; 
 her funeral and property, 449 
 
 Temple, Sir Purbeck, 438, 449 ; 
 death, 438 
 
 Temple, Sir William, his house 
 at Sheen, 313 and n., 400;, 
 alluded to, ib., 337 
 
 Temple Bar, human quarters set 
 up at, 440; Proclamation of 
 James II. at, 366 
 
 Temple Church, 443 
 
 Temple, Inner, revels at, 25 
 
 Temple, Middle, Evelyn admitted, 
 6 ; residence at, 8, 145 ; his son 
 John admitted, 285; revels at, 
 2<; 261 ; feast at, 268 ; riotous 
 Christmas, 443 
 
 Temple. Marais de, at Paris, 31 
 
 Teneriffe, Peak of, relation of the, 
 by Evelyn, 210 
 
 Tenison, Dr. Thomas. Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, Vicar of 
 St. Martin's, 330 and n. ; char- 
 acter, 345 ; library founded by, 
 357 and «., 376, 425 ; sermons 
 hy, 345- 35.8, 367, 371, 372, 397, 
 405, 408 ; sick of the small-pox, 
 
534 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 357; present at execution of Duke 
 of Monmouth, 376; bints at land- 
 ing of Prince of Orange, 404 ; 
 chapel in Conduit Street opehed 
 by, 425 and n. ; Bishop of Lin- 
 coln, 427 ; a Trustee for the 
 Boyle Lecture, ib. and n. ; on 
 the author of Wliole Duty 
 of Man, 428 ; tabernacle near 
 Golden Square set up by, 430 
 and n. ; Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, 436 ; a Commissioner for 
 Greenwich Hospital, 437 ; visit 
 of Mr. Evelyn at Lambeth, ib. ; 
 subscription to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 442 w. ; opinion respect- 
 ing proceedings against Bishop 
 Watson, 443 ; alluded to, 376, 
 396, 427, 431, 435, 438, 439, 441, 
 446, 449, 455, 458 
 Terence, MS. of, 86 and n. 
 Tergemina, Rome, 100 
 Terra, by Evelyn, 476, 480 
 Terra di Lavoro, 91 
 Terracina, formerly Anxur, 90 
 Terrasso, Marco, lapidary, 130 
 Terrella, notice of a, 186 and n. 
 Tesoro di San Marco, Venice, 120 
 Test, Sacramental, 291 and n. ; 
 doubts respecting taking it, 317; 
 remarks on Test, 390 ; trial of 
 Sir Edward Hales for not taking 
 the, 389 n. ; resignations of 
 office in consequence of, 291 
 and «., 395 ; James II. requires 
 dispensations for Popish Officers, 
 385; dispensed with, 390, 392, 
 395) 397 ar| d n '\ opposition to 
 abolition of the, 402 
 Testaceus, Mons, at Rome, 100 
 
 and n. 
 Testament, New, Latin MS., 437 
 Testament, Paraphrase and An- 
 notations on tlie New (1635), 
 Hammond, 368 and n. 
 Teviot, Earl of, 229, 387 ; suicide 
 
 of, 434 
 Teviotdale, Lord, 322 
 Texel, great storm in (1697), 443 
 Thames, river, frozen over, 147, 
 356, 362, 409, 436 ; triumphant 
 pageant on, 223 ; fog on the, 
 274 ; design of wharfing from 
 the Temple to the Tower, 254 ; 
 Dutch fleet in, 256 ; Frost-fair 
 upon, 355 and n., 356; fire- 
 works on, 360 ; whales in, 198, 
 446 ; crossed on foot (168 1), 398 
 Thanet, Island of, noticed, 286 
 Thea root, contortions of, 420 
 Theatre, marionettes, 35 and n. ; 
 curious model of one, ib. ; of Mar- 
 cellus at Rome, 66 ; at Vicenza, 
 131 and n. 
 Themistocles, quoted, 2 and n. 
 Theobalds Palace in Hertford- 
 shire, 26 and n. 
 Theodorus, St., column at Venice, 
 
 121 and n. 
 Thetford, town, 307 ; Fiddlers of, 
 282 n. 
 
 Thicknes, or Thickens, James. 
 
 Sec Thicknesse 
 Thicknesse, James, of Balliol Col- 
 lege, 6 and n. ; travels with him, 
 
 26, 48, 127 
 Thistlethwait, Dr., sermon by, 
 
 288 
 Thistleworth, seat of Sir Clepesby 
 
 Crew, 146 
 Thomas, Mr., Commissioner for 
 
 Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 Thomas, St., finger of, 104 
 Thomas, Dr. William, Bishop of 
 
 Worcester, 414 and n. 
 Thomond, Lord, house at New- 
 market, 271 
 Thoresby, his Diary quoted, 17 
 
 n., 394 «., 454 n. 
 Thome's Environs of London, 
 
 cited, 313 «., 345 n. 
 Thornhill, Mr., 187 
 Thorpe, seat of the regicide St. 
 
 John, 182 and n. 
 Thou, President Francois Auguste 
 
 de, 154 
 Three Impostors, History of the 
 
 (1669), by Evelyn, 263 n., 265 
 
 and n. 
 Thrisco, Mr., 202 
 Thurland, Sir Edward, 262 and 
 
 «., 301, Introduction, xix n. 
 Thurnheuser, a German chemist, 
 
 59 
 Thynne, Mr., 385 
 
 Thynne, Thomas, his marriage, 
 336, 337 ; murder of, 336 «., 339 
 and n. ; monument in West- 
 minster Abbey, 336 n. 
 
 Thyrsander, a dramatic piece, 
 by Evelyn, 479, Introduction, 
 xxvii n. 
 
 Tibaldi, palace designed by, 133 
 
 Tickhill, 181 and n. 
 
 Tiger, baited by dogs, 446 
 
 Tilbury Fort, 11, 284 
 
 Tillotson, Dr. John, sermons by, 
 316, 372, 394, 413 ; Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, 424 ; death, 435 ; 
 allusions to, 267, 426 
 
 Times, The, cited, 113 n. 
 
 Tintoretto, II (Giacomo Robusti), 
 paintings by, 120 and «., 125, 
 169, 440 m 
 
 Tippett, Sir John, 378 
 
 Tippin, Mr., sermon by, 431 
 
 Tithe Ale, 182 
 
 Titian (Tiziano Vecelli da Cadore), 
 paintings by, 22, 36, 58, 82, 99, 
 112, 113, 118, 124 and «., 148, 
 198 and «., 317, 329, 362, 440 ; 
 tomb of, 125 
 
 Titles of Honour, by Selden, 
 186 
 
 Titus, triumphal arch of, 71 ; 
 baths and statues from, 80, 87 ; 
 drawings of his Amphitheatre, 
 
 155 
 Titus, Colonel Silius, author of 
 Killing' no Murder, 265 and n. , 
 
 277; 33i. 403 
 Tivoli, 108 
 
 Toledo, Peter di, 95 ; palace of, 
 
 96 . , . 
 
 Toleration, universal declaration 
 
 of (1672), 284 and n. ; Act (1689), 
 
 416 and n. 
 Tombs, Mr., his garden, 173 
 Tomkins, C, drawing by, 336 «. 
 Tomson, Jesuit, 230 
 Tomson, M., a merchant of Genoa, 
 
 53 . 
 
 Tonge, Dr. Israel, Popish con- 
 spiracy discovered by him, 316; 
 his Jesuits' Morals, ib. ; ac- 
 count of, ib. n. 
 
 Tonnage and Poundage, Act of, 
 205 
 
 Tooke, Benjamin, Introduction, 
 xxix n. 
 
 Torbay, landing of Prince of 
 Orange at, 407 and «., 417 
 
 Toro Farnese, 64 and n. 
 
 Torre d' Asinelh, account of, 114- 
 15 ; dimensions, 116 
 
 Torre del Greco, 94 
 
 Torre della Pallada, Brescia, 132 
 
 Torricellian experiment at Philo- 
 sophic Club, 208 
 
 Torrington, Arthur Herbert, Earl 
 of, imprisonment of (1690), 421 ; 
 account of, ib. n. 
 
 Torrinieri, noticed, 61 
 
 Torso of Amphion and Dirce, 64 
 and n. 
 
 Torture, the punishment of, 158 
 
 Tory party referred to, 409 
 
 Totes, in Normandy, notice of, 
 
 3 8 
 Touchris, Johannes de, 62 
 
 Touchstone, or basanite, statue 
 of, at Rome, 72 and n. 
 
 Tournon, castle and college at, 50 
 and n. 
 
 Tours, city of, 45 and «., 47 
 
 Tower of London, leather guns 
 at, 27 ; during the Great Fire, 
 249 ; attempt to steal the Crown 
 Jewels at the, 276 and n. ; 
 Assay -.masters at, 312; the 
 seven Bishops confined in the, 
 402, 403 
 
 Townsend, Marquis, seat of, near 
 Hereford, 26 n. ; created a 
 Baron, 210 
 
 Toynbee, Mrs. Paget, Walpole's 
 Letters, cited, 61 n. 
 
 Tracts against Dissenters, Papists, 
 and Fanatics, 367, 372 
 
 Trade and Foreign Plantations, 
 Council of, 192, 275, 277, 282, 
 283, 285, 287, 288, 289, 291, 292, 
 294, 296, 297 ; offices of, 278, 
 Introduction, xxx n. ; Secre- 
 tary, 399 
 
 Trades, History of, projected by 
 Evelyn, 477 
 
 Tradescant, John, Museum and 
 family of, 195 and «., 312 
 
 Trajan, Column of, at Rome, 
 104 
 
 Trapp, Dr. Joseph, epigram by, 
 446 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 53>: 
 
 Travels, various, cited, G. Burnet 
 (1685-86), 86«., 137 n. ; Keys- 
 ler (1760), 71 «., 78 n., 79 n. ; 
 Wright's, 93 n. ; Arthur Young 
 (1792), 50 «. vSV* Forreine 
 Travell (Howell), and Reresby, 
 Sir John 
 
 Travels in France (1698), Dr. 
 Martin Lister, cited, 35 n. 
 
 Travers, Mr., King's Surveyor, 
 
 ^437 
 
 Tre Fontane, Church of, at Rome, 
 
 87 and n. 
 Treacle, its manufacture, 130, 202 
 Trean, a merchant, his pictures, 
 
 147 
 
 Treby, Sir George (Lord Chief 
 Justice), 331 and ?u. 353 ; sub- 
 scription to Greenwich Hospital, 
 442 n. ; death, 452 
 
 Tree, in the centre of France, 48 
 
 Trelawny, Sir Jonathan, Bishop 
 of Bnstol, 402 ; sent to the 
 Tower, ib. ; acquitted, 403 ; 
 sermon by, 455 
 
 Trenchard, Mr., afterwards Sir 
 John, apprehended for a plot, 
 348 ; enlarged, 355 ; Secretary 
 of State, 430 ; account of, ib. n. 
 
 Tres Tabernffi, 89 ; etching of, 
 480 
 
 Tresoro di San Marco, 120 
 
 Trevelyan, Mr. G. M., England 
 under the Stuarts (1903), cited, 
 317 »., 321 «., 331 n., 384 «., 
 
 385 «■ 
 
 Trevor, Sir John, 277 and n. ; 
 subscription to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 442 n. 
 
 Tribuna, a splendid cabinet so 
 called, 58 
 
 Trinita de' Monte, at Rome, 103 
 
 Trinity, Platonists' MSS. con- 
 cerning the, 438 
 
 Trinity Chapel, Conduit Street, 
 425 n., 433, 435, 449 ; first ser- 
 mon in, 425 ; first christening 
 in, 427 
 
 Trinity College, Cambridge, 183 
 
 Trinity House, 219, 300, 344, 378 
 n. ; great dinners at, 237, 278 
 and n., 290, 378 ; Corporation 
 of, re - assembles after the 
 Plague, 245 and n. ; feast to 
 Mr. and Mrs. Evelyn on their 
 passing a fine, 276-7 ; their alms- 
 houses, ib. and n. ; Evelyn be- 
 comes a Younger Brother, 290 ; 
 his son appointed also, 291 ; 
 their charter, 377 and n. ; ac- 
 count of a meeting, 377 
 
 Trinity House (1895), Barrett, 
 cited, 378 n. 
 
 Triplet, Thomas, 190 
 
 Triumphal arches in Rome, 81 
 
 Troilus and Cressida, cited, 13 n. 
 
 Trollop, Mrs., marriage of, 329 
 
 Trout, excellent in the Rhone, 
 141 ; at Hungerford, 175 and n. ; 
 spearing of, 178 
 
 Truffles, earth-nuts, 49 
 
 Trumball, Sir William, subscribes 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 442 n. 
 
 Tudor, Mr., Quinquina introduced 
 by, 435 . 
 
 Tufton, Sir Joseph, 186 
 
 Tuileries, Paris, 32-3 
 
 Tuke, .George, marriage, 189 ; 
 alluded to, 194, 200, 206, 226 
 and n. 
 
 Tuke, Lady, 290, 295, 357, 370, 
 372 
 
 Tuke, Sir Brian, portrait, 314 
 and n. 
 
 Tuke, Sir Charles (son of Sir 
 Samuel), birth, 279 ; death and 
 character of, 422 
 
 Tuke, Colonel Sir Samuel, notice 
 of, 151 and «., 203 ; harangue 
 on behalf of the Papists, 204 
 and «., 290; sent to break the 
 marriage of the Duke to the 
 Queen - Mother, 206; sent to 
 Paris on the death of Car- 
 dinal Mazarin, 210 and n. ; his 
 marriage, 230, 262 ; christen- 
 ing of his son, 279 ; death, 280 
 and n. ; alluded to, 229 ; play 
 by, 226 n., ib. n. 
 
 Tullianum, Rome, 66 
 
 Tulliola, daughter of Cicero, 89 
 
 Tully, Dr. George, suspended, 
 391 and n. 
 
 Tully s Offices, an early printed 
 book, 446 
 
 Tun, huge one, 46 and n. 
 
 Tunbridge Free School, 237 
 
 Tunbridge Wells, 169 ; beauties 
 of, 214 
 
 Turberville, Edward, evidence 
 against Viscount Stafford, 331 
 and n. 
 
 Turk, christened at Rome, 103 
 
 Turk, rope-dancer so called, 194 
 and n. 
 
 Turkey, fleet destroyed, 433 ; Am- 
 bassadors to (1692), 429 and n. 
 
 Turks, costly equipments of, 361 ; 
 conquests of (1683), 350 
 
 Turner, Dr. Francis, Bishop of 
 Ely, 372 n. ; Dean of Windsor, 
 347 and n. ; sermon by, when 
 Bishop of Rochester, 358 ; other 
 sermons, 360, 372, 387^ 388 ; 
 petition against Declaration of 
 Liberty of conscience, 402 n. ; 
 sent to the Tower, ib. ; tried 
 and acquitted, 403 ; at a meet- 
 ing respecting the Succession 
 (1688), 409 ; searched for, 423 
 and n. ; deprived, 424 ; at Bishop 
 White's funeral, 444 ; alluded to, 
 
 3°3, 357 
 Turner, Dr. Thomas (brother of 
 
 Bishop of Ely), sermon by, 387 
 
 and «. 
 Turner, Mr., a friend of Mr. 
 
 Slingsby, 271 
 Turner, Sir Edward, Lord Chief 
 
 Baron, 296 and n. 
 Turnham Green, Sir John 
 
 Chardin's house at, 459 
 
 Turquoise, a remarkable one, 59 
 Tuscany, Duke of, sells wine at 
 
 his palace, 58 
 Tuscany, Prince of, visit to Royal 
 
 Society, 265 
 Tusser, T., quoted, Introduction, 
 
 xii and n. 
 Twelve Bad Men (1894), Mr. T. 
 
 Seccombe, cited, 373 «., 416 ». 
 TwickenhamPark,Lord Berkeley's 
 
 seat, 304 and n. 
 Twisden, Sir Roger, 241 
 Tyburn, executions at, 348 «., 
 
 350. 359> 423, 44o; Oates 
 whipped at, 372, 374 
 
 Typography, invention of, 18 
 
 Tyrannus, or the Mode (1661), by 
 Evelyn, 217 and «., 476, 479, 
 Introduction, xxv ; anecdote 
 relative to, 252 and n. 
 
 Tyrconnel, Richard Talbot, Earl 
 of, powers given to, in Ireland, 
 391 and n. ; appointed Lord- 
 Lieutenant, 395 and n. ; Ireland 
 endangered by his army, 412, 
 413 ; driven out by William, 
 422 ; alluded to, 393, 421 
 
 Tyrell, Sir Timothy, and Mr., 
 164 ; marriage of, 232 ; house at 
 Shotover, ib., 300 
 
 Tyson, Dr. Edward, anatomist, 
 351 and «. 
 
 Ubaldo, Archbishop, 56 n. 
 
 Udine, John of, 85 n. 
 
 Ulmarini, Count, his garden, 131 
 and n. 
 
 Umbrellas, 51 and n. 
 
 Unicorn, horn of, 28 
 
 Union, a fine sort of pearl, 102 
 and n. 
 
 University, Aix, 51 ; Bourges, 48 ; 
 Leyden, 17 ; Orleans, 43-4 and 
 n. ; Oxford, visits to, 175, 232, 
 300, 461 ; Cambridge, 182-3; 
 Padua, 125 ; Paris, 29 ; Siena, 
 60 ; Valence, 50 ; Rome, 103 ; 
 Bologna, 114 
 
 University College, Oxford, 300, 
 
 T 39° . 
 Unufrio, Cardinal, 102 
 
 Upcott, Mr. Wm., 480, Introduc- 
 tion, xxiii n. ; his connection 
 with the publication of the 
 Diary, Preface, v, vi 
 
 Uphill, Mrs., actress, 252 n. 
 
 Upman, Mr., 305 
 
 Upnor Castle, fortified, 256, 287 
 
 Uppingham, Rutland, notice of, 
 179 
 
 Urban [Urbino], Duke of, library 
 of, 86 and n. 
 
 Urban VIII. , Maffeo Barberini, 
 Pope, public works of, 75, 85, 
 102 ; statue, 89 ; alluded to, 87 
 
 Urselin, or Ursler, Augustina 
 Barbara, a hairy woman, 194 
 and ». 
 
 Ursinos, Fulvius, museum of, 63 
 
 Ussher, Dr. James, Archbishop 
 of Armagh, sermons by, 148, 
 
536 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 
 
 149, 166 and ». ; conversation 
 with Evelyn, 186 ; his daughter, 
 232 ; prophecy of, alluded to, 
 385 ; Life and Letters, 390 
 Utrecht, notice of town of, 12 
 Uvedale, Dr. Robert, his garden, 
 304 n. 
 
 Vachery Water, Surrey, 194 n. 
 
 Vacuum experiments, 220 
 
 Vaga, Pienno del, paintings by, 
 
 37. '55 ;, burial-place, 103 
 Valence, city of, 50 
 Valentia, Viscount, created Earl 
 
 of Anglesea, 210 
 Valentia - on - Rhone, Bishop of, 
 
 praises Louis XIV. for prose- 
 cuting Protestants, 385 and n. 
 Valesius (or Walsh), Peter, a 
 
 priest, 387 and n. 
 Valet's Tragedy and otlter 
 
 Studies (1903), Mr. Andrew 
 
 Lang, cited, 316 n. 
 Vambre, near Paris, 153 
 Van Beck, Augustina Barbara, a 
 
 hairy woman, 194 and n. 
 Van der Borcht, Hendrik, his 
 
 portrait of Evelyn, 10 and n. ; 
 
 notice of, ib. n. 
 Van Leyden, Lucas, 36, 42 
 Van Tromp, Admiral Martin 
 
 Happertz, 253 
 Vanbrugh, Sir John, 437 and n. 
 Vanderdall, painting by, 14 
 Vander Douse, Mr., 346 
 Vandervoort, Mr., of Venice, his 
 
 books, 129 
 Vandyck, Sir Anthony, paintings 
 
 by, 173, i9 8 « 3°6 a " d *-i 3 1 ?, 
 362 and «., 401, 431, 440 ; full- 
 length portrait of, 306 
 
 Vane, Sir Harry, confined in 
 Carisbrooke Castle, 192 and «., 
 403 and n. 
 
 Vane, Sir Henry, jun., a Privy 
 Councillor, 403 ; alluded to, 432 
 
 Vanni, Francisco, picture by, 99 
 
 Vanni, Curtius, 78 
 
 Varennes, Allier, village of, 48 
 and n. 
 
 Vasari, Giorgio, paintings by, 101, 
 
 It2 
 
 Vase, remarkable one at St. Denis, 
 28 and n. 
 
 Vatican, ceremony of conferring 
 Cardinal's hat, 73 ; description 
 of, 84, 106 ; library, 86 ; cere- 
 monies at, 106 
 
 Vaucluse, notice of, 50 
 
 Vaudois, persecuted Protestants 
 of the, 415, 418 ; restored to their 
 country ; 421 ; received by Ger- 
 man Princes, 446 
 
 Vaughan, John, Lord Chief Jus- 
 tice, 258 and n. 
 
 Vaulting - Master, The, or The 
 ■irt of Vaulting, by W. Stokes 
 (1652), 7 n. 
 
 Vauxhall, Sir Samuel Morland's 
 house at, 335 and n. ; Gardens, 
 214 n. \ glassworks at, 306 ». 
 
 Veau, M. de, his academy at 
 Paris, 42 and «. 
 
 Vegetation 0/ Plants, Discourse 
 of the, Sir K. Digby, 214 
 and n. 
 
 Veins, Arteries, and Nerves, 
 Tables of, 129 and «., 148 ; lent 
 to College of Physicians, 170 ; 
 presented to the Royal Society, 
 260 and n. 
 
 Velletri, town of, 89 
 
 Vendome, Philippe de, Duke of, 
 a brother of, 346 and n, 
 
 Vendome, Palace of, Paris, 42 
 
 Venetian Ambassador, entry into 
 London, 263, 440 ; alluded to, 
 268, 274 ; entertained by 
 James II. (1685), 386 
 1 Venice, description of, 117-30; 
 the bagnios, 117 ; origin of 
 Venice, ib. ; marriage of the 
 Adriatic, ib. ; gondolas, 118; 
 Rialto, ib. ; Fondaco dei Ted- 
 eschi, ib. ; Exchange, ib., 120; 
 the Bucentaur, 124 ; Merceria, 
 118 ; Piazza of St. Mark and 
 Clock over the Arch, ib. ; Church 
 of St. Mark, 119 ; Reliquary, 
 120; Senate Hall, etc., ib. ; 
 Mint, 121 ; Tower of St. Mark, 
 ib. ; dress, etc., of citizens, ib. ; 
 the Opera, 122 ; the Arsenal, 
 123 ; execution, 124 ; churches, 
 124-5 » islands, 125, 126 ; glass 
 manufactory, 126 ; Signor 
 Rugini's collection, 127 ; the 
 Carnival, 128; operas, etc., 
 122 ; the Ghetto, 129 ; lapidaries, 
 130 ; policy of Venice with re- 
 spect to Vicenza, 131 ; gondola 
 sent from, to Charles II., 220; 
 consulate of, 289 
 
 Venipont, John, Campanile at 
 Pisa built by, 56 
 
 Venn, Dr. John, 336 «. 
 
 Venus, statues of, 82 and «., 113 ; 
 Temple of, 97, 104 
 
 Venus of Correggio, 432 
 
 Venuti, Marcello, paintings by, 
 104 
 
 Verneuil, Henri, Due de, 238 
 and n. 
 
 Verney, Mr., a cousin of Evelyn, 
 
 359 
 Vernon, Mr., Secretary of State, 
 
 450 • • 
 
 Verona, description of, 131 ; 
 
 amphitheatre, ib. ; remains of 
 former magnificence, 132 ; Count 
 Giusti's villa, ib. ; Scaliger's 
 praises of, ib. 
 Veronese, P. See Cagliari 
 Veronica, St., altar, 75; her 
 Sudarium, ib. and «., 84 ; 
 handkerchief, 105 
 Verrio, Antonio, 322 ; his garden, 
 326, 392 ; fresco painting by, at 
 Euston, 280; at Windsor, 312, 
 321 and «. ; at Cassiobury, 324 ; 
 Chiswick, 346 and n. ; Mon- 
 tague House, 353 ; Ashtead, 
 
 358 ; Whitehall, 394 ; character 
 of his paintings, 346 ; settled at 
 St. James's, 392 
 
 Verrochio, Andrea, statue by, 124 
 
 Verulam, Francis Bacon, Lord, 
 230 
 
 Veslingius, Dr. John, of Padua, 
 126 and n. , 128, 129, 260 and n. 
 
 Vespasianus, Titus, Temple of 
 Peace built by, 64 ; amphi- 
 theatre of, 72 ; sepulchre, 100 
 
 Vesune, tower, 52 and n. 
 
 Vesuvius, Mount, 92, 93 ; erup- 
 tion of (1696), 440 ; views of, 
 etched by Evelyn, 480 
 
 Via Felix, at Rome, 70 
 
 Via Pia, at Rome, 70 
 
 Vic, Sir Henry de, English agent 
 at Brussels, 23 and «., 214, 255 
 
 Vicentino, painting by, 120 and n. 
 
 Vicenza, account of, 130 ; Hall of 
 Justice, Theatre, ib. ; Piazza, 
 Palaces, etc., ib. ; Count Ul- 
 marini's garden, 131 ; policy of 
 Venice with respect to, ib. 
 
 Vienna, siege of, raised (1683), 
 350, 352 and n., 361 and n. 
 
 Vienne, account of, 49 and ». 
 
 View of all Religions in the 
 World (1652), Alex. Ross, 171 
 and n. 
 
 Vignola, Giacomo Barocci da, 
 architect, 67 ; his works, no 
 and n. 
 
 Vigo, capture of galleons at (1702), 
 455 and n. 
 
 Villa Franca, notice of, 52 
 
 Villefrow, in Flanders, 22 
 
 Villiers, George (1903), Lady 
 Burghclere, cited, 282 «., 306 n. 
 
 Villiers, Lord Francis, slain, 146 
 and n. 
 
 Villiers Street, Charing Cross, 354 
 
 Vincennes, Bois de, 32 and n. 
 
 Vincent, Sir Francis, 424 
 
 Vinci, Leonardo da, paintings by, 
 
 36, 37, 58, 115, 1.34, 198, 306 ; his 
 Coena Domini ' at Milan, 134 
 and n. ; death, ib. 
 
 Viner, Sir George, his carving by 
 Gibbons, 275 
 
 Viner, Sir Robert, banker, 319 
 and n. 
 
 Vineyards, various notices of, 27, 
 .46, 47, 51, 91, 94, 173, 187^ 
 
 Viol d'Amore, a musical instru- 
 ment, 323 
 
 Violins, first used in church service, 
 225 
 
 Virgil, his Camilla, 89 and «.; his 
 sepulchre, 94 and 11. 
 
 Virgilius Evangelizans, by Alex- 
 ander Ross, 171 
 
 Virgilius Maro, Publ., ancient 
 MSS. of, 86 ; his tomb, 94 
 
 Virgin Queen, by Dryden, 254 
 
 Virginian rattle-snake, 195 
 
 Visse, Mons., concert at his house, 
 
 '57 
 Vita Peircskh, P. Gassendi, 193 
 
 and n. 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 537 
 
 Vitellesco, Hippolito, his statues, 
 
 8 1 
 Viterbo, account of, 62 
 Vitruvius, statue of, 132 ; MS. of, 
 
 v olary at Fontainebleau, 37 
 Volpone, or tlie Fox, a play, 224 
 
 and «. 
 Volterra, Daniele de, paintings 
 
 by, 101, 103 
 Volterra, F. da, church built by, 
 
 103 
 Volumes, ancient form of making, 
 
 86 
 Vorstermans, Johannes, painting 
 
 by, 311 
 Vossius, Isaac, 290 and «., 303 
 Voyage en Provence (Chapelle 
 
 and Bachaumont), cited, 160 n. 
 Voyage of Italy (Lassels). See 
 
 Italy, Voyage of 
 Voyageur, Guide (1755), cited, 
 
 62 n. 
 Vratz, Colonel Christopher, assas- 
 sin of Mr. Thynne, 336 n. ; 
 
 executed, 339 and n. ; embalmed, 
 
 34o 
 Vulcan, Court of, 95 and «. ; 
 Temple of, ib. 
 
 Wade, Capt., executed after a 
 court-martial, 456 and n. 
 
 Wadham College, Oxford, 175 
 
 Waggons drawn by dogs, 23 
 
 Wainsford, Mr., 157 
 
 Wake, Dr. William (Archbishop 
 of Canterbury), 453 ; sermons 
 by, 395and«., 396, 397 
 
 Wakeman, Sir George, his trial 
 (1679), 320 and «., 372 
 
 Walcheren, Island of, 11 and n. 
 
 Waldegrave, Sir Henry, created a 
 peer, 388 and n. 
 
 Waldenses, destruction of, 415 
 
 Waldrond, Dr., 284 
 
 Wales, James, Prince of, son of 
 James II., birth of, 403; his 
 nurse, 405 ; James II. calls 
 council to testify his birth, 406 ; 
 sent to Portsmouth with treasure, 
 408 and n. ; taken to Dunkirk, 
 id. ; prayers for, omitted in 
 church service, 409 ; portrait of, 
 
 4 2 7 
 
 Walker, Sir Edward, Garter King 
 of Arms, notice of, 223, 293 n. ; 
 anecdote of Lord Clifford, 293 
 
 Walker. Dr. George (of London- 
 derry), death of, 421 ; notice of, 
 ib., n. 
 
 Walker, Dr. Obadiah, tutor to 
 Mr. Hildeyard's sons, 148 and «., 
 163; thanks Evelyn for procuring 
 Arundelian Marbles, 260 ; letter 
 on that subject, ib. ; University 
 College repaired by, 300; Master 
 of University College, 390 ; per- 
 verted several young gentlemen, 
 ib. ; licence to print Popish books 
 refused, ib. ; arrested, 416 n. ; 
 his Treatise on Medals, Intro- 
 
 duction, xxxiv and n. ; alluded 
 to, 300, 392, 409 
 
 Walker, Robert, portrait of Evelyn 
 " by, 146 and n. ; alluded to, 156 
 
 Wall, John, account of, 30 
 
 Waller, Sir Hardress, his daughter, 
 298 and n. 
 
 Waller, Mr., accomplishments, 433 
 
 Waller, Mr. Edmund, 130 and «., 
 144, 145, 152, 193 n. ; child of, 
 156, 159, 160; return to England, 
 164 and n. ; a Commissioner of 
 Trade, 277 
 
 Waller, Sir William, at Ports- 
 mouth, 25 
 
 Wallgrave, Dr., a rare lutanist, 
 
 297> 357. 362 
 Wallingford House, Whitehall, 
 
 258 and »., 292 
 Wallis, Dr. John, mathematician, 
 
 213 and «., 232, 266 
 Walls of Genoa, 55 
 Walpole, Horace, at Radicofani, 
 
 61 n. ; his Anecdotes 0/ Paint- 
 ing, referred to, 126 »., 146 n. ; 
 
 his Catalogue 0/ Engravers, 
 
 cited, 480 «. 
 Walpole's Letters, Mrs. Paget 
 
 Toynbee (1903), cited, 61 «., 
 
 114 n., 465 n. 
 Walsh (or Valesius), Peter, a 
 
 priest, 387 and n. 
 Walsingham, Sir Francis, portrait, 
 
 264 n. 
 Walter, Sir William, 335 
 Walter, Mrs. Lucy, 151 n., 306 n. 
 
 See Barlow 
 Walton, Brian, Bishop of Chester, 
 
 his Biblia Polyglotta, 170 and n. 
 Walton, Izaak, his Angler, cited, 
 
 97 «. m m m 
 
 Walton Heath, Roman antiquities 
 
 found on, 199 n. 
 Wanstead House, Sir Josiah 
 
 Child's, 344 and n. 
 War, prisoners of, Treaty for 
 
 exchanging, 238 ; expense of, ib. 
 War. See Dutch War 
 Ward, Rev. J., his Diary, cited, 
 
 177 n. 
 Ward, Sir Patience, subscription 
 
 to Greenwich Hospital, 440 «. 
 Ward, Dr. Seth, afterwards Bishop 
 
 of Salisbury, 175 and n., 297 
 
 and «., 346 
 Ward, Lord Chief Baron, sub- 
 scription to Greenwich Hospital, 
 
 442 n. 
 Ward, Mrs., solicits an Order of 
 
 Jesuitesses, no 
 Wariner, Mr., 7 
 Warley Magna, Essex, Manor of, 
 
 149, 187 
 Warner, — officiated at touching 
 
 for the evil (1688), 408 
 Warren, Dr., sermon by, 393 
 Warrington, Lord, death of (1693), 
 
 432 
 Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst, 
 
 cited, 63 n. 
 Warwick, Guy, Earl of, relics of, 
 
 179 and n. ; grot, chapel, etc., 
 ib. and n. 
 
 Warwick, Charles Rich, Earl of 
 (1661), 210 
 
 Warwick, Sir Philip, notice of, 
 205 and «., 228, 229, 302 
 
 Warwick, castle and town of, 179 
 
 Warwickshire, Address to Charles 
 II. (1660), 204 
 
 Wase, Christopher, account of, 
 164 and n. ; recommended by 
 Evelyn, 167, 265 
 
 Water Stratford, Bucks, 434 n. 
 
 Water Works and Fountains, 
 notices of various, Amsterdam, 
 15 ; Bois-le-Duc, 19 ; Villefrow, 
 22 ; Brussels, 23 ; Wotton, 26 ; 
 Paris, 29, 38, 41 and «., 155 ; St. 
 Cloud, 33, 151 ; Rueil, 34, 151 ; 
 St. Germain, 33 ; Count de 
 Liancourt's gardens, 35 ; Fon- 
 tainebleau, 37 and n. ; Essonnes, 
 38 ; St. Prive, 48 ; Valence, 50 ; 
 Genoa, 54; Florence, 57, 59; 
 Siena, 60 ; Viterbo, 63 ; Rome, 
 65, 66, 67, 69, 70, 73 and «., 87, 
 89, iot, 107, 108 ; Labulla, 93 ; 
 Pratolino, ii4and#.; Bologna, 
 115 ; Padua, 122 ; in England, 
 179, 181, 308, 447 and n. ; Cam- 
 bridge, 183 ; Hampton Court, 
 221, 416 ; Bushell's Wells, 232 ; 
 Shotover, ib. ; Sydenham, 302 ; 
 New River, 391 and n. ; Sadler's 
 Wells, ib.', Chelsea, 442 ; Wind- 
 sor, 346 ; Shooter's Hill, 447 
 
 Watson, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of 
 St. David's, 443 and n. ; deprived 
 for simony, ib. , 447 
 
 Watteville, or Bateville, Baron de, 
 Spanish Ambassador, 215 and «., 
 
 470-473 
 Watts, Mr., Keeper of Apothe- 
 caries' Gardens, 378 
 Way-wiser, description of that 
 
 instrument, 177 and u., 194 
 
 and n. 
 Weathercocks, fixed on trees, 
 
 285 
 Webb, — , his paintings, 147 
 Webb, John, architect, 216 and n. 
 Weese-house, at Amsterdam, 15 
 Welbeck, Marquis of N ewcastle's 
 
 seat, 180 
 Weld House. See Wild House 
 Wells. See Water Works, etc. 
 Welsh, resemblance of Breton 
 
 language to, 300 
 Wem, Baron. See Jeffreys, George 
 Wens of the inhabitants of the 
 
 Alps, 138, 142 
 Wentworth, Lord (1649), I 5 I an< * 
 
 «., 164 
 Wentworth, Lord (1663), 227 
 
 and n. 
 Wentworth, Lady Henrietta 
 
 Maria, 376 and n. 
 Wentworth, Peter, Dean of 
 
 Armagh, 7 and n. 
 Wesley, John, his Journal, cited, 
 
 450 n. 
 
538 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Wessell, Mr., of Banstead, M.P., 
 
 454 «■ 
 
 West Clandon, Surrey, seat at, 
 273 and «. 
 
 West, pardon granted to, 387 
 
 West Horsley, Surrey, seat at, 
 240 and n. 
 
 West Indies, Committee to 
 examine laws of colonies in the, 
 289 
 
 Westerham, estate at, 172 and «. 
 
 Westminster, medical garden at, 
 198 ; painted chamber at, 147 
 and n, ; suicide of Bailiff of, 459 
 
 Westminster Abbey, ordination 
 in, 206 ; coronation of Charles 
 II., 211-12; his obscure burial 
 in, 366 and n. ; burial of the 
 Queen of Bohemia, 210 ; corona- 
 tion of William and Mary, 414 ; 
 trophies in, 14 and n. ; burial of 
 Cowley in, 258 
 
 Westminster Hall, banquet in, 
 206 ; trials in, 9, 169, 331 and 
 n -i 37 2 > 397. 403; Star-Chamber, 
 246 ; banners in, 14 and ». 
 
 Westminster School, exercises of 
 boys at, 213 
 
 Westmoreland, Lord, death of, 432 
 
 Weston, Elizabeth Joan, a 
 learned lady, 264 «. 
 
 Weston, Mr., his election for 
 Surrey, 454 and n. 
 
 Wetherborn, Dr., physician, 203 
 
 Weybridge, Duke of Norfolk's 
 house at, 313 and n., 400 
 
 Whale taken near Greenwich, 
 198, 446 
 
 Whalley, Colonel, 196 
 
 Wharton, Lord, 274 
 
 Wharton, Sir George, mathe- 
 matician, 245 and n. 
 
 Wharton House, Nottingham- 
 shire, 180 
 
 Wheatley and Cunningham's 
 London, cited, 147 »., 191 «., 
 236 n. 
 
 Wheatley, Mr. Henry B., F.S.A., 
 his Samuel Pepys (1880), cited, 
 451 «., and his Life of Evelyn, 
 Pre/ace, vi 
 
 Wheeler, Sir Charles, Governor 
 of St. Christopher and Leeward 
 Islands, 279 ; his removal 
 recommended, 282 ; an executor 
 of Viscountess Mordaunt, 323 
 
 Wheeler, Paul, musician, 189 
 
 Wheler, Sir George, 355 and n. ; 
 account of him, 394 
 
 Whigs, use of name in 1685, 372 
 
 Whispering Gallery, at Glou- 
 cester, 178 
 
 Whistler, Dr. Daniel, 303 and »., 
 
 343. 345 
 Whitbread, Thomas, Jesuit, 
 
 executed, 319 and n. 
 White, Bishop, recommends Dr. 
 
 Cosin to Charles I., 162 
 White, G., engraver, 339 n. 
 White, Robert, engraver, 337 «., 
 
 453 *■ 
 
 White, Dr. Thomas, Bishop of 
 Peterborough, sermon by, 389 
 and n. ; petitions against 
 Declaration of Liberty of Con- 
 science, 402 ; sent to the Tower, 
 ib. ; tried and acquitted, 403 ; 
 at a meeting of Bishops, on the 
 Revolution (1688), 409 ; funeral, 
 
 444 
 
 White, Thomas, philosopher, of 
 Paris, 159 and «. 
 
 White, Mr., nephew of the pre- 
 ceding, 282 and n. 
 
 Whitehall, 146 ; ceremony of 
 washing feet of poor men at, 106 
 and ?i. ; occupied by the Rebels, 
 156; affray at, 146; Rebel 
 council at, 147 ; state of, in 
 1656, 188 ; goods pillaged from, 
 restored, 204 ; French comedy 
 at, 218 ; paintings at, 224 ; 
 design for rebuilding, 233 ; ball 
 and play at the theatre, 275 ; 
 lottery in Banqueting House, 
 231 ; celebration of St. George's 
 Day (1667), 254 ; fireworks at, 
 263 ; Italian scaramuccio at, 
 302 ; Charles II. 's library at, 
 3 2 8, 335 ", reception of Ambas- 
 sadors in Banqueting House, 
 206, 337 ; closed at time of Rye 
 House Plot, 350 ; service on 
 Easter Day (1684), 358 ; gam- 
 bling at, 362, 366 ; Popish oratory 
 at, 367 ; new chapel, etc., at 
 (1685), 383 ; new chapel for 
 Popish services, 394 and «. ; 
 Queen's apartments at, 395 ; 
 panic at, 405 ; Dutch guards at, 
 409 ; sale of pictures at, 431 ; 
 Council Chamber at, for Com- 
 mittee for Trade, etc., 278 ; 
 Introduction, xxx n. ; fire at 
 (1691), 423 and n. ; burned 
 down (1698), 444 and n. \ 
 Duchess of Portsmouth's apart- 
 ments at, 302 and n., 338, 353 
 
 Whitehall Gardens, office of 
 Board of Trade in, Introduc- 
 tion, xxx n. 
 
 Whitehall Gate, Proclamation of 
 accession of James II., 365 
 
 Whitelocke, Bulstrode, 167 and 
 n. ; his Memorials of English 
 Affairs, cited, 163 «. 
 
 Whitfield, Sir Ralph, 26 
 
 Whitgift, Archbishop, monument, 
 
 45 1 
 Whitsuntide, neglect of, 173 
 
 Whittle, Mr., Surgeon to the 
 King, his sister, 329 
 
 Whole Duty of Man, Dr. Chap- 
 lin supposed to be the author, 
 428 and n. 
 
 Wiburn, Sir John, Governor of 
 Bombay, 372 
 
 Widow, Tlte, a lewd play, 219 
 and n. 
 
 Wight, Isle of, 380 ; Treaty of, 147 
 
 Wilbraham, Randle, 346 and n. 
 
 Wild, Dr., Bishop of London- 
 
 derry, sermons by, 186, 188, 
 191, 199 ; account of him, 186 
 n. ; referred to, 192, 202 
 
 Wild Gallant, The, a comedy, 
 226 and n. 
 
 Wild House, Lincoln's Inn Fields, 
 Spanish Ambassador's house, 
 334 and 11. 
 
 Wilde, Sir William, Recorder, 
 296 and n, 
 
 Wilkins, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 Chester, 175 and n., 188, 189, 
 229, 239, 269 «., 477; his 
 mechanical genius, 176 ; con- 
 secrated Bishop of Chester, 
 263 
 
 Willemstad, notice of, 20 
 
 William I., King of England, 
 tomb of, at Caen, 39 and n. 
 
 William III., his landing re- 
 ported, 404, 405, 407 and n. ; 
 manifesto of, 407, 408 ; landing 
 of, 407 and n., 417; his forces 
 increase, 408 ; his progress to 
 London, ib. ; James II. invites 
 him to St. James, 409 ; pro- 
 ceedings thereupon, ib. ; Con- 
 vention votes the Crown to him 
 and the Princess, 410, 412 ; his 
 reserved disposition, 409, 4^14 ; 
 morose temper, 411 ; Prince 
 and Princess declared King and 
 Queen, 412 ; proclaimed, 412 ; 
 their conduct on their accession, 
 ib. ; opposition to his accession, 
 ib. 413 ; coronation, 414 ; his 
 birthday and anniversary of 
 landing atTorbay, 417 ; resolves 
 to go in person to Ireland, 418 ; 
 sets out, 420 ; buys Kensington 
 of Lord Nottingham, 418 and 
 n. ; his victory at the Boyne, 
 421 ; returns to England, 422 ; 
 embarks for Holland, 431 ; pro- 
 gress in the North, 438 ; cold 
 reception at Oxford, ib. ; fire- 
 works on his return, 439 ; enter- 
 tained at Al thorp, ib. ; con- 
 spiracy to assassinate, 439 and 
 n. ; subscription to Greenwich 
 Hospital, 442 n. -, entry into 
 London, 443 ; assists Dampier 
 in his voyages, 445 ; falls from 
 his horse, 454 ; his death, ib. ', 
 allusions to, 440 
 
 William of Innsbruck, iti n. 
 
 Williams, Dr. John, Bishop of 
 Chichester, 436 and n. , 439 < 
 
 Williams, Dr. John, Archbishop 
 of York, 183 and n. 
 
 Williamson, Sir Joseph, account 
 of, 224 n., 253 »., 282, 295; 
 alluded to, 234, 273, 303, 343; 
 President of Royal Society, 311 
 
 Williamson, Mr., 257, 265 
 
 Willoughby, Lord, of Parham, 198 
 and n. ; Governor of Barbadoes, 
 221, 285 and n. 
 
 Willughby, Francis, 389 n. 
 
 Wilmot, Henry Lord, account of, 
 151 and n. ; referred to, 163 
 
GENERAL INDEX 
 
 539 
 
 Wilson, Mr., killed in a duel, 433 
 and n. 
 
 Wilson's Wo?iderful Characters, 
 cited, 157 n. 
 
 Wilton, seat of the Earl of Pem- 
 broke, 177 ; fire at, 458 
 
 Wimbledon, Earl of Bristol's 
 bouse and library at, 219 and 
 «., 311 ^ 
 
 Winch, Sir Humphry, 234, 319 ; 
 Commissioner for Trade, 234 «., 
 277, 289 
 
 Winchelsea, ruins of, 167 
 
 Winchelsea, Heneage Finch, Earl 
 of, 187, 204 and «., 268 ; seat at 
 Burley on the Hill, 180 and n. 
 
 Winchester, Bishop (1685), 
 miracles related by, 379 
 
 Winchester, notice of, 25 ; Royal 
 palace built at, 352 and «., 380 
 and «. ; Cathedral of, ib. 
 
 Winchester, Marchioness of, 331 
 and n. 
 
 Wind, tempestuous (1658), 199 ; 
 (1662), 219-20; (1690), 417; 
 (1699), 445 ; (1703), 457 
 
 Windham, Mr., 226 
 
 Windham, Mr. Justice, 320 n. 
 
 Windsor, Lord, 274 
 
 Windsor Castle and Chapel, notice 
 of, 174, 346, 378, 392; Charles 
 I.'s burial-place, ib. ; offering of 
 Knights of, 273 ; improvements 
 by Prince Rupert, ib. ; installa- 
 tion at, 277 ; statue erected, 
 326 ; improvements and repairs, 
 2 73> 3 I2 > 34 6 ; paintings at, 
 321, 346, 378 ; alluded to, 321, 
 326, 428 ; Court at, 313 ; St. 
 George's Hall, 346, 378 ; Chapel, 
 429 
 
 Windsor Park, trees planted, 314 
 
 Windsor Prophecy, Swift (171 1), 
 336 n. 
 
 Wine, of Orleans, 43 ", Dutch 
 Bishop killed by, 62 and n. ', 
 at Caprarola, no; at Bologna, 
 116 ; at Padua, 128 
 
 Winnington, Sir Francis, 331 
 
 Winstanley, Henry, waterworks 
 by, 442 and «. ; built the Eddy- 
 stone Lighthouse, ib. 
 
 Winstanley, engravings by, 219 n. 
 
 Winter, Sir John, project of char- 
 ring sea-coal, 191 and ru 
 
 Winter, wet and cattle plague in 
 (1648), 147 ; severity of (1658), 
 197 ; (1667), 254 ; (1683-84), 355- 
 56 ; paper on the effects of the 
 winter of 1683-84, 358 and n. 
 
 Wirtemburg, Prince of (1646), 129 
 
 Wise, Henry, his house at Bromp- 
 ton Park, 434 «., 454 
 
 Witches, increase of, in New 
 England, 430 and ». 
 
 Withers, an ingenious shipwright, 
 291 
 
 Woldingham church and parish, 
 310 and n. 
 
 Wolley, Rev. Dr., 162 n., 164 
 
 Wolsey, Cardinal Thomas, 176, 
 
 308 ; his burial-place, 180 and ».; 
 birthplace, 191 ; portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Wolves in France, 44 and n. 
 
 Woman, one who had had twenty- 
 five husbands, 17 ; monument to 
 one who had 365 children at one 
 birth, 18; hairy, 194 and n.; 
 gigantic, 182, 265 ; marks on 
 the arm of one, 272 ; restoration 
 to life of one who had been 
 hanged, 298 and n. ; burned at 
 Smithfield, 167 
 
 Women in Venice, dresses of, 121 ; 
 painting of faces of, 173, 351 
 
 Wonderful Characters, Wilson's, 
 referred to, 157 n. 
 
 W onder/ul Museum (1805), 
 Kirby, cited, 270 
 
 Wood, Anthony a, his Athena 
 Oxonienses, 63 n. 
 
 Wood, E. J., his Curiosities of 
 Clocks and Watches, cited, 
 207 n. 
 
 Wood, Sir Henry, his marriage, 
 163 
 
 Woodcote, Surrey, referred to, 
 146, 170 and n., 221, 223, 269 
 
 Woodstock Palace, destruction of, 
 232 
 
 Woodward, Josiah, his Account of 
 Societies for Reformation of 
 Manners in London (1714), 
 448 n. 
 
 Woodyer, Mr. H., 2 n. 
 
 Woolwich, battery erected at, 256 
 
 Worcester, Henry Somerset, Mar- 
 quis of, 270 and n. 
 
 Worcester, battle of, 161, 190 
 
 Worcester, notice of, 179 
 
 Worcester House, Strand, 208 
 and «., 231 
 
 Worcester Park, 242 and n. 
 
 Works of Gray, cited, 28 n. 
 
 Works of Sir T. Browne, cited, 
 56 «., 67 n. 
 
 Worksop Abbey, notice of, 180 
 
 Worsley, Dr., on Plantations, 283 ; 
 death of, 294 
 
 Wotton, Charles Henry Kirk- 
 hoven, first Baron, project of 
 draining, 271 and «.; his house 
 at Hampstead, 305 and n. 
 
 Wotton, Sir Henry, his Elements 
 of Architecture, 479 ; his Re- 
 liquia* Wottoniance, cited, 114 
 n. ; portrait, 264 n. 
 
 Wotton, Rev. Henry, account of, 
 319 ». 
 
 Wotton, William (son of Rev. 
 Henry), 319 ; his talents when 
 a child, ib. and n., 410 n.\ ser- 
 mon by, 435 
 
 Wotton, Surrey, church porch, 3 
 and n. ; Sacrament neglected, 
 
 434 
 
 Wotton, Surrey, dormitory at, 
 6 «., 9 n. 
 
 Wotton, Surrey, mansion of the 
 Evelyn family, 209 n. ; described, 
 2 and «., 335 ; improvements, 
 25, 166 and «., 455 ; hospitality l 
 
 of George Evelyn, 339, 443 ; 
 earthquake at, 429 ; Evelyn re- 
 moves to, 434, 451 ; Dr. Bohun 
 presented to living, 453 ; MSS. 
 of Evelyn there, 478 ; Hortus 
 siccus at, 126 «. ; etching of, 480 
 
 Wotton parish ; extent of, 2 «. 
 
 Wray, Captain, afterwards Sir 
 William, 130, 132, 136, 138, 139, 
 
 „ x 43 
 
 Wren, Sir Christopher, his early 
 talents, 175 and «., 177 ; theatre 
 at Oxford designed by him, 232, 
 266 ; a Commissioner for repair 
 of Old St. Paul's, 247 ; verses 
 by, 298 n. ; Ashmolean Museum 
 built by, 312 n. ; christening of 
 his son, 318 ; St. Paul's, monu- 
 ment and fifty churches building 
 
 by, 334, 34 1 «•, 361 «•; Presi- 
 dent of the Royal Society, 
 337 ; design for Chelsea College, 
 340, and Archbishop Tenison's 
 library, 357 ; Commissioner for 
 Greenwich Hospital. 437, 441, 
 442 n. ; lays foundation-stone of, 
 442 ; alluded to, 232, 233, 275, 
 3°3» 3". 328, 352 «., 361 n., 
 416 n., 445 and «.; alters Ken- 
 sington Palace, 418 ». 
 
 Wren, Dr. Matthew, Bishop of 
 Ely, 192, 209 and n. 
 
 Wren, Matthew, son of Bishop of 
 Ely, 192 and n., 234 
 
 Wrestlers, ancient statues of, 82 
 and n. 
 
 Wrestling match before his 
 Majesty (1667), 254 
 
 Wright, Chief Justice, 403 
 
 Wright, George, Clerk of the 
 Crown, 451 «. 
 
 Wright, Joseph Michael, notice 
 of, 200 and «., 224, 230; paint- 
 ings by, 292 and n. 
 
 Wright, Sir Nathan, Lord Keeper, 
 notice of, 451 and n. 
 
 Wright, Travels, 93 n. 
 
 Wright and 'BaxtXe.tt's Essex, cited, 
 201 n. 
 
 Wriothesley, Thomas, Earl of 
 Southampton, daughter of, 354*1. 
 
 Wyche, Sir Cyril, President of 
 Royal Society, 354 ; married a 
 niece of Evelyn's, ib. «., 428, 
 448 ; Lord Justice in Ireland, 
 428 «., 432 
 
 Wyche, Lady, wife of Sir Cyril, 
 and niece of Evelyn, 428, 448, 
 
 449 
 Wyche, Sir Peter, 448 and n. 
 
 Wyche, Bishop Richard de, tomb 
 
 at Lucca, in and n. 
 Wye, Mr., Rector of Wotton, his 
 
 death, 453 
 Wythens, Sir Francis, 354, 415 n. 
 
 Xaverius, 67 
 
 Yachts first used in England, 215 
 Yarborough, Sir Thomas and 
 Lady, 348 and n. 
 
54° 
 
 THE DIAR Y OF JOHN E VEL YN 
 
 Yarmouth, a frigate, 237 and n. 
 Yarmouth, Sir Robert Paston, 
 
 Earl of, 189 and n. , 238 
 Yaverland, Isle of Wight, 7 
 Yew Tree, deadly species of the, 
 
 in ; large one, 227-8 and «. ; 
 
 Druids' Grove of, at Norbury 
 
 Park, 186 and «. 
 York, City and Minster, 181 ; 
 
 declares for Prince of Orange 
 
 (1688"), 408 
 York, Frederick, Duke of, pays 
 
 the fine at Oakham, 180 
 York, Duchess of, 219, 294 and 
 
 n., 340, 341, 393 
 York, James, Duke of. See 
 
 James 
 York House, Strand, 187 and n. ; 
 
 representation of the Last 
 Supper at, 285 
 
 Young, Arthur, his Travels, etc., 
 cited, 50 n. 
 
 Young- Ad?niral, a play, 225 
 and «. 
 
 Young, Captain, capture by, 192 ; 
 death and character of, 432 
 
 Yvelin, or Evelin, William, physi- 
 cian, 270 and n. 
 
 Zaccara (Daniele?), painting by, 
 
 103 
 Zacharias, or Zachary, of Genoa, 
 
 anecdote of his shipwreck, 53 
 Zealand, a captured vessel, 239 
 Zecca, or Mint at Venice, 121 
 
 Zenno, Signor, Venetian Ambas- 
 sador, 386 
 Zeno, monument of, at Venice, 
 
 119 
 Zinnar tree, quality of, 351 
 Zinzendorp, Count de, 346 
 Zi telle, procession of, at Rome, 
 
 84, 104, 105 m ... 
 
 Zuccaro, Fredenco, paintings by, 
 
 63, 85 «., no 
 Zuccaro, Taddeo, painting by, 
 
 85 n. ; burial-place, 103 
 Zulestein, Mons., 274 
 Zulichem, Christian Huygens 
 
 van, 210 and «., 213 
 Zulichem, Constantine Huygens, 
 
 Seigneur de, father of above, 
 
 231 and «., 278 
 
 THE END 
 
 Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh. 
 
flfcacmillan's (Blobe %ibrar\\ 
 
 Crown 8vo. Cloth. 3 s. 66. each. 
 
 Volumes marked with an asterisk (*) are also issued in Limp leather, 
 with full Gilt backs and Gilt edges, $s. net each. 
 
 *BOSWELL'S LIFE OF JOHNSON. With an Introduction by Mowbray 
 Morris. 
 
 * BURNS'S COMPLETE WORKS. Edited from the best Printed and 
 
 MS. Authorities, with Memoir and Glossarial Index by Alexander Smith. 
 
 * THE WORKS OF GEOFFREY CHAUCER. Edited by Alfred W. 
 
 Pollard, H. Frank Heath, Mark H. Liddell, and W. S. McCormick. 
 
 * COWPER'S POETICAL WORKS. Edited, with Biographical Introduction 
 
 and Notes, by W. Benham, B.D. 
 
 ROBINSON CRUSOE. Edited after the Original Editions, with a Biographical 
 Introduction by Henry Kingsley, F.R.G.S. 
 
 * DRYDEN'S POETICAL WORKS. Edited, with a Memoir, Revised Texts, 
 
 and Notes, by W. D. Christie, M.A. 
 
 *THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. With Introduction and Notes by 
 Austin Dobson. 
 
 FROISSART'S CHRONICLES. Translated by Lord Berners. Edited by 
 G. C. Macaulay, M.A. 
 
 * GOLDSMITH'S MISCELLANEOUS WORKS. With Biographical 
 
 Introduction by Professor Masson. 
 
 HORACE. Rendered into English Prose, with Introductions, Running Analysis, 
 Notes, and Index, by J. Lonsdale, M.A., and S. Lee, M.A. 
 
 *THE POETICAL WORKS OF JOHN KEATS. Edited, with Intro- 
 duction and Notes, by William T. Arnold. 
 
 MORTE D'ARTHUR. The Book of King Arthur, and of his Noble Knights 
 of the Round Table. The Original Edition of Caxton revised for modern use. With Introduction, 
 Notes, and Glossary, by Sir E. Strachey. 
 
 * MILTON'S POETICAL WORKS. Edited, with Introductions, by Professor 
 
 Masson. 
 
 * PEPYS'S DIARY. With Introduction and Notes by G. Gregory Smith. 
 
 ♦POPE'S POETICAL WORKS. Edited, with Notes and Introductory 
 Memoir, by Dr. A. W. Ward. 
 
 *SIR WALTER SCOTT'S POETICAL WORKS. Edited, with Bio- 
 graphical and Critical Memoir, by Professor F. T. Palgrave. With Introduction and Notes. 
 
 ♦SHAKESPEARE'S COMPLETE WORKS. Edited by W. G. Clark, 
 M.A., and W. Aldis Wright, M.A. With Glossary. 
 
 * SPENSER'S COMPLETE WORKS. Edited from the Original Editions and 
 
 Manuscripts, with Glossary, by R. Morris, and a Memoir by J. W. Hales, M.A. 
 
 * TENNYSON'S POETICAL WORKS. Also in Extra Cloth, Gilt Edges. 4s. 6d. 
 
 VIRGIL. Rendered into English Prose, with Introductions, Notes, Analysis, and 
 Index, by J. Lonsdale, M.A., and S. Lee, M.A. 
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON. 
 
COMPLETE EDITIONS OF THE POETS. 
 
 Uniform Edition. In Green Cloth. 
 
 THE COMPLETE WORKS OF ALFRED, LORD 
 
 TENNYSON. 
 
 With a Portrait engraved on Steel by G. J. Stodart. Crown 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF MATTHEW ARNOLD. 
 
 With a Portrait engraved on Steel by G. J. Stodart. Crown 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF JAMES RUSSELL 
 LOWELL. 
 
 With Introduction by THOMAS HUGHES, and a Portrait. Crown 8vo. 
 js. 6d. 
 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF PERCY BYSSHE 
 SHELLEY. 
 
 Edited by Professor Dowden. With a Portrait. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF SAMUEL TAYLOR 
 COLERIDGE. 
 
 Edited, with a Biographical Introduction, by J. Dykes Campbell. 
 Portrait as Frontispiece. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE POETICAL WORKS OF WILLIAM WORDS- 
 WORTH. 
 
 With Introduction by John Morley, and a Portrait. Crown 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS OF T. E. BROWN. 
 
 With a Portrait ; and an Introduction by W. E. HENLEY. Crown 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS OF CHRISTINA 
 ROSSETTL 
 
 With Introduction, Memoir, and Notes, by W. M. ROSSETTI. 
 Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE BAB BALLADS, with which are included Songs of a Savoyard. 
 By Sir W. S. Gilbert. Sixth Edition. Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE INGOLDSBY LEGENDS- 
 
 With 20 Illustrations on Steel by Cruikshank, Leech, and Barham. 
 Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON. 
 
English flfeen of Xetters- 
 
 NEW SERIES 
 
 Crown 8vo. Gilt tops. Flat backs. 2s. net each. 
 
 GEORGE ELIOT- By Sir Leslie Stephen, K.C.B. 
 HAZLITT. By Augustine Birrell, K.C. 
 MATTHEW ARNOLD. By Herbert W. Paul. 
 RUSKIN. By Frederic Harrison. 
 TENNYSON. By Sir Alfred Lyall. 
 RICHARDSON. By Austin Dobson. 
 BROWNING. By G. K. Chesterton. 
 ORABBE. By Alfred Ainger. 
 FANNY BURNEY. By Austin Dobson. 
 JEREMY TAYLOR. By Edmund Gosse. 
 ROSSETTI. By A. C. Benson. 
 
 MARIA EDGEWORTH. By the Hon. Emily Lawless. 
 HOBBES. By Sir Leslie Stephen, K.C.B. 
 ADAM SMITH. By Francis W. Hirst. 
 THOMAS MOORE. By Stephen Gwynn. 
 SYDNEY SMITH. By George W. E. Russell. 
 EDWARD FITZGERALD. By A. C. Benson. 
 ANDREW MARVELL. By Augustine Birrell, K.C. 
 SIR THOMAS BROWNE. By Edmund Gosse. 
 WALTER PATER. By A. C. Benson. 
 SHAKESPEARE. By Walter Raleigh. 
 JAMES THOMSON. By G. C. Macaulay. 
 MRS. GASKELL. By Clement Shorter. 
 CHARLES KINGSLEY. By G. K. Chesterton. 
 BEN JONSON. By Prof. Gregory Smith. 
 WILLIAM MORRIS. By Alfred Noyes. 
 
 MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON. 
 
English flften of ^Letters- 
 
 Edited by JOHN MORLEY 
 
 Popular Edition, Crown Svo. Paper Covers, is,; Cloth, is. 6d. each. 
 Library Edition, Crown Svo. Gilt tops. Flat backs. 2s. net each. 
 
 ADDISON. 
 
 By W. J. Courthope. 
 
 BACON. 
 By Dean Church. 
 
 BENTLEY. 
 By Sir Richard J ebb. 
 
 BUNYAN. 
 
 By J. A. Froude. 
 
 BURKE. 
 
 By John Morley. 
 
 BURNS. 
 
 By Principal Shairp. 
 
 BYRON. 
 
 By Professor Nichol. 
 
 CARLYLE. 
 
 By Professor NlCHOL. 
 
 CHAUCER. 
 
 By Dr. A. W. Ward. 
 COLERIDGE. 
 
 By H. D. Traill. 
 
 COWPER. 
 
 By Goldwin Smith. 
 
 DEFOE. 
 
 By W. Minto. 
 
 DE QUINCEY. 
 
 By Professor Masson. 
 DICKENS. 
 
 By Dr. A. W. Ward. 
 
 DRYDEN. 
 
 By Professor Saintsbury. 
 
 FIELDING. 
 By Austin Dobson. 
 
 GIBBON. 
 
 By J. C. Morison. 
 GOLDSMITH. 
 ByW. Black. 
 
 GRAY. 
 
 By Edmund Gosse. 
 
 HAWTHORNE. 
 By Henry James. 
 
 HUME. 
 
 By Professor Huxley, F.R.S. 
 
 JOHNSON. 
 
 By Sir Leslie Stephen, K.C.B. 
 
 KEATS. 
 
 By Sidney Colvin. 
 
 LAMB, CHARLES. 
 By Canon AlNGER. 
 
 LANDOR. 
 
 By Sidney Colvin. 
 
 LOCKE. 
 
 By Thomas Fowler. 
 
 MACAULAY. 
 
 By J. C. Morison. 
 
 MILTON. 
 
 By Mark Pattison. 
 
 POPE. 
 
 By Sir Leslie Stephen, K.C.B. 
 
 SCOTT. 
 
 By R. H. Hutton. 
 
 SHELLEY. 
 
 By J. A. Symonds. 
 
 SHERIDAN. 
 
 By Mrs. Oliphant. 
 
 SIDNEY. 
 
 By J. A. Symonds. 
 
 SOUTHEY. 
 
 By Professor Dowden. 
 
 SPENSER. 
 
 By Dean Church. 
 
 STERNE. 
 By H. D. Traill. 
 
 SWIFT. 
 
 By Sir Leslie Stephen, K.C.B, 
 
 THACKERAY. 
 
 By Anthony Trollope. 
 
 WORDSWORTH. 
 By F. W. H. Myers. 
 
 mAcMILLAN AND CO., Ltd., LONDON. 
 
- • - .-•-■,_---.