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 PHILLIPS 
 
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 THE 
 
 NATIONAL 
 
 BEEKEEPERS' 
 
 DIRECTORY 
 
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CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 3 1924 085 660 458 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924085660458 
 
THE NATIONAL 
 
 CONTAINING A CtASSIFIKD XIST OF THE ' "bEE]^EBPERS OF THE 
 UNITED STATES AND CANADA ; WITH ISSSA^S AND HBSTS 
 REGARDING. THE SUCGESSBUL MA|(AGHaiENT 
 OE THE APIARY. ' 
 
 COMPILED BY , • 
 
 •HENEY; alley',: 
 -Wenhams Mass. 
 
 PRINTED AT 
 
 SAKEM PRESS PUBLISHING AND PRINTING 60.. 
 
 SALESr, MASS.. 
 
 1889.. 
 
THE NATIONAL 
 
 BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY, 
 
 CONTAINING A CLASSIFIED LIST OV. THE BEEKEEPERS OP THE 
 
 UNITED STATES AND CANADA; WITH ESSAYS AND HINTS 
 
 REGABDING THE SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT 
 
 OF THE APIARY. 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 HENRY ALLEY, 
 Wbnham, Mass. 
 
 PRINTED AT 
 
 SALEM PRESS PUBLISHING AND PRINTING CO., 
 
 SALEM, MASS. 
 
 1889. 
 
COPYRIGHT BY 
 GEORGE A. BATKS, 
 
 SAtiiM. MASS. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 To THB 8UB3CRIBBRS OF THE "BeRKKISFRRS' DIRECTORY :'' 
 
 When we undertook this work it was oar intention to have, it in 
 the hands of each subscriber as early as the middle of January. 
 Several things have caused an unexpected deldy. 
 
 It was also our intention to give some valuable statistics regard- 
 ing bee culture. This we are not able to do on account of the in- 
 completeness of the blanks returned. Many of those who returned 
 them did not reply to any of the questions. Of the 10,000 blanks 
 sent out^ less than 3,000 were returned. 
 
 The averagei number of colonies kept by those Who did return the 
 blanks are twehtjr. Nnmber of pounds of honey per colony was 
 not far from twenty'^flve pounds per season. 
 
 (iii) 
 
THE 
 
 BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Abbey, P. C, Essex, Vt. 
 
 Abbott, E. C, St. Joseph7Mo. 
 
 Adams, Jos., 2109 N. Campbell St., Springfield, Mo. 
 
 Adams, Wm. S., Greys, Maryland. Physician. 
 
 Adams, George, Hamden, N. Y. • 
 
 Adams, R., Woodville, Ont., Can. 
 
 Adams, Geo. C, Brownsville, Vt. 
 
 Adams, F. M., Williamson, N.'Y. 
 
 Adams, Geo., Ha,ledon, N. J. 
 
 Adams, Joseph, No. Springfield, Mo. 
 
 Adams, Wm., Lebanon, Ohio. 
 
 Adams, H. A., Box 27, Armas, Ind. 
 
 Aikin, B. F., Freetown, Mass. 
 
 Akerly, S. M., Newburgh, N. Y. 
 
 Akerman, P., Chester, N. J. 
 
 Albee, L. W., So. Charlestown, N. H. 
 
 Albee, Wm. L., So. Charlestown, 17. H. Bentist. 
 
 Albeston, S. L., Roslyn, L. I., N. Y. 
 
 Aldefifer, F. F., Harleysville, Pa. 
 
 Aldrich, Lyman P., Westboro, Mass. 
 
 Aldrich, Ned., Westboro, Mass. 
 
 Aldrich, Ned. S., Westboro, Mass. 
 
 Aldrich, H. A., Harmony, R. I. 
 
 Aldrich, Cyrus, Cochesett, Mass. 
 
 Alexander, Mrs. Sylvester B., West Hartford, Vt. 
 
 (1) 
 
2 . THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Alexander, E. W., Esperance, N. Y. 
 Alexander, J. B., Hartford City, Ind. 
 Alger, Peter C, Otterville, Ont., Can. 
 Allen, L., Loyal, Wis. 
 
 Allen, Joseph, Terre Haute, Henderson Co., 111. Farmer. 
 Allen, Nath'l T., West Newton, Mass. School teacher. 
 Allen, A., Prospect, N. Y. 
 Allen, Geo. A., 108 Rowe St., Rochester, N. Y. 
 Allen, V. N., Brady, Ohio. ^ 
 Allen, E. A., 262 Meridian street. East Boston, Mass. 
 Allen; J. W. B., Thrifty, Texas. 
 Allen, W. C, Bison, Tenn. 
 Allen, John E., Westford, Vt. 
 Allen, Herman A., Milton, Vt. 
 Allen^ Jos., Holyoke, Mass. 
 Allen, W. H., Trumansburg, N. Y. 
 Allen, W. K., McLean, N. Y. 
 Allen, A. H., Portland, Conn. 
 \Allen, E. J., Petersburg, N. Y. 
 Allen, A- J-, Pine Meadow, Conn. 
 Allen, John, Westford, Vt. 
 Allen, Watson, Bernardsville, N. J. 
 AUis, E. W., Adrian, Mich. 
 Alvis, Henry J., Montrose, Iowa. 
 Alvord, J. B., Huntingdon, Mass. 
 Ames, Orlando, Somerville, Mass. 
 Ames, Wm. D., East Dorset, Vt. 
 Ames, A. E., Claremont, Va. 
 Anderberg, Charles J., South Falls, Dak, 
 Anderson, Louis, Bloorasburg, N. J. 
 
 Anderson, Washington B , Cobleyville, IJioh. Physician. 
 Anderson, Mrs. H. B., Humansville, Mo. 
 Anderson, Peter C, Otterville, Ont., Can. 
 Andrews & Lockhart, Patten's Mills, N. Y. Carniolan 
 queens. ' 
 
THK beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 3 
 
 Andrews, John, Pattens Mills, N. Y. 
 
 Andrews, T. P., Farina, 111. \ 
 
 Andrews, Dea. E. H., Gaylordsville, Conn. 
 
 Andrews, Sanford, Bernardstown, Mass. 
 
 Annis, Edinond, Button Station, Mich. 
 
 Armitage, M., .Goodrich, Texas. 
 
 Arnold, Alice L., Norwich, N. Y. 
 
 Arnold, Thomas T., Comorn, Va. Physician. 
 
 Arhts, C. J., Meshoppen, Pa. 
 
 Arundell, T. B., Senega, Cal. 
 
 Ashley, F. S., No. Amherst, Mass. 
 
 Aspergreen, Adolph, Saronville, Neb. 
 
 Atchley, Jennie, Farmersville, Texas Beekeeper, also 
 
 dealer in smokers and foundation. 
 Atsatt, J. P., Mattapoisett, Mass. 
 Auld, J. R., New Hartford, N. Y. 
 Austin, A. H., Suffield, Conn. 
 Austin, W. J., Chittenango, N. Y. 
 Austin,"Martin, Fairport, N. Y. 
 Averill, Mary A., North Andover, Mass. 
 Avery, A. D., London Bridge, Va. 
 Avery, J. B., Clifton, Kansas. 
 Avery, B. F., Middleton, Mass. 
 Avery, John B., Stittville, N. Y. 
 
 Bachelder, A.' C, West Fort Ann, N. Y. 
 
 Badlam, W. H., Dorchester, Mass. 
 
 Badgar, Benj. F., Charlestown, Mass. 
 
 Badger, Mrs. A. M., Everett, Mass. 
 
 Baer, Ezra, Dixon, IH. 
 
 Bagby, F. E., La Belle, Mo. 
 
 Bailey, F. G., Newton Falls, Ohio. 
 
 Baker, Dennis, Eustis, Florida. 
 
 Baker, Adam, Old Tacomy, Washington Territory. 
 
4 THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Baker, Burt, Carlisle, Mich. 
 Baker, D., Eustis, Fla. 
 Baldridge, C. J., Kendaia, N. Y. 
 Baldridge, M. M., St. Charles, 111. 
 ]fealdwin, G. G., Port Huron, Mich. , 
 
 Ball, Alonzo, Clinton, Mass. 
 Ballard, W. & W., Hampden, Ohio; 
 Balmer, J. H., Paris, 111. 
 
 Bamberger, Ed. M., 908 Saratoga St., Baltimore, Md. 
 Banfield, D. E., Lake Village, N. H. 
 Banton, Boyton, Freedom, Maine. 
 Baptie, James, Springville, Ont., Ca. 
 Barr, W. H., Whigville, Ohio. Dealer in supplies. 
 Barb, B. F-, Joetta, Hancock Co., 111. Blacksmith. 
 Barb, J. S., Bristolville, Ohio. Dealer in beekeepers' sup- 
 plies. 
 Barber, Gro.y Mansfield, Ont., Ca. 
 Barber, Ira, De Kalb Junction, N. Y. 
 Barford, John, 90 Davis St., Atlanta, Ga. 
 Bargo, David T., Danville, Ind. 
 Barker, Mrs. Geo. M., Natick, Mass. 
 Barnard, P. A., Cottage Grove, Ind. 
 Barnes, Wm. C, Southbridge, Mass. 
 Ba;mes, Arthur, Ames, N. Y. 
 Barnes, J. E., Pardee, Pa. 
 Barnes, Daniel, Greenville, N. H. 
 Barnum, Willis M., Angelica, N. Y. 
 Barr, O. S., Groveland, Mass. 
 Barrett, A. E. Coleman Station, N. Y. 
 Barrett, P. G., Hood River, Oregon. 
 Barrett, Fred C, Fort Wayne, Ind. Carpenter. 
 Barrett, H. N., Charlton, N. Y. 
 Barrett, John, Cherry Village, Ohio. 
 Bartlett, Mrs. H. S., Crompton, R. I. 
 Bartlett, W. E., No. Blandford, Mass. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. S 
 
 Barton, J. F., 220 E. Randolph St., Chicago, 111. 
 Barton, Samuel, So. America, 111. 
 Barrows, O. B., Marshalltown, Iowa. 
 Bartram, L. H., Sharon, Conn. 
 Bassett, Mrs. M. F., Burr (bak, Otoe Co., Nebraska. 
 Bassett, Fred., East Kendall, N. Y. 
 Basson, L. D., West Charleston, Vt. 
 Bates, Samuel, Stockton, Minn. Small fruit culture. 
 -Bates, W. K., Box 127, Stockton, Minn. 
 Bates, S., Stockton, Minn. 
 Bean, A. A., Chester, N. H. 
 Beck, J. H., Hermon, Pa. 
 Becker, A., Sandwich, 111. 
 Beebe, Edward B., OneidS,, N. Y. 
 Beebe, H. M., Simonsville, Vt. 
 Beech, G. /C^'^uitman, Mo. 
 Beecham, Horace K., Williamsburg, Mich. 
 Beecher, H. R., West Norfolk, Conn. 
 Beland, Arthur, No. Springiield, Mo. 
 Belcher, Edmond K., Randolph, Mass. 
 Bemis, L. C, Athol, Mass. 
 Benjamin, S. W., Shirley, Mass. 
 Benjamin, John, Deposit, N. Y. 
 Bennett, Shubal,\ Westmoreland, N. H. 
 Bennett, Geo. W.j'Acushnet, Mass. 
 Benson, Sidney T., Falconer, N. Y. 
 Bently, W. L.,> Danville, 111. 
 
 Bercaw, T. W., Postoria, Ohio. Rubber stamps. 
 Berdan, Albert, Luton, Ont^ Can. 
 
 Bermer, I. F., New Iiisbon, Ohio. Fres. First National Bank 
 Berry, F. D., So. Oxford, N. Y. 
 Berwick, C, Monterey, Cal. 
 Best, A. O., Savannah, Ga. 
 Best, D. E., Best, Pa.. 
 
6 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 Bichler, George, Chillicothe, Ohio. 
 
 Bidwell, W. W., Jersey City, N. J. 
 
 Biddle, J. S., Joysburg, Pa. 
 
 Bierman, Henry J., Princeton, 111.. 
 
 Bill, A. G., Danielsonville, Conn. 
 
 Bill, Frank P., Bill Hill, Conn. 
 
 Bingham, T. F., Abronia, Mich. 
 
 Bishop, Albert W., Olanthe, Kans. 
 
 Bitgood, Frank S., VoluntoWn, Conn. 
 
 Bixler, Charles R., Brooks, Iowa. 
 
 Black, G. D., Brandon, Iowa. 
 
 Blackman, James H., Oxford, N. Y. 
 
 Blair, Joseph, St. Fay, Quebec. 
 
 Blair, J. A., Carliijville, III. 
 
 Blanton, O. M., Greenville, Miss. Physician. 
 
 Blecka, F. K., 14 Grove Ave., Elgin, 111. 
 
 Blichner, Jacob, Harmon, Pa. 
 
 Bliss, C. M., Fox Lake, Wis. 
 
 Bliss, Francis A., Box 41, Pawtucket, R. I. 
 
 Bliss, G. A., Moscow, Mich. 
 
 Blodgett, John W., Flag Springs, Mo. 
 
 Blout, Frank G., Pana, 111. 
 
 Blowers, G. A., Sandy Ridge, Pa. 
 
 Bodge, Albion R., Dexter, Me. 
 
 !podge, J. S., La Porte, Ind. 
 
 Bogart. C, Stone Bridge, N. Y. 
 
 Bolin, J. W., Concord Church, W. Va. 
 
 Bolinger, F., Palestine, 111. " 
 
 Boone, E. A., Shelbyville, Maine. 
 
 Booth, Mrs. Levi, Box 2251, Denver, Col. 
 
 Booth, Henry B., Chester, Vt. 
 
 Borden, Joseph, Tiosa, Ind. 
 
 Boston, James, Pawnee City, Nebraska. Horticulturist. 
 
 Bostwick, John B. , New Milford, Conn. Mixed business. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Bostwick, W. S., Cornwallville, N. Y. 
 Bosworth, D. L., Wilbraham, Mass. 
 Bosworth, Jas., Taunton, Mass. ' ' 
 
 Bosworth, Ge.orge W., Little Compton, R. I. 
 Bosworth, Dwight L., Wilbraham, Mass. 
 Boude, John C, Lexington, Va. 
 Boulden, C. S., Cyclone, Ind. 
 Bourguin, John H., North Branch, Minn. 
 Bourke, John, Down's Chapel, Del. 
 Bovie, I. W., Hoosict Falls, N. Y. 
 Bowdrich, F. C, Brookline, Mass. 
 Bowen, Lafayette, Springville, N. Y. 
 Bower, J. D., Prospect, Pa. 
 Bowerman, Hannah, Loyal, Wis. 
 Bowles, E., Grant City, Pa. 
 Bowman, J, C, Holyoke, Mass. 
 Boyd, E. A., Cannonsville, N. Y. 
 Boyd, E. C, Wilmington, Vt. 
 Brackett, Daniel, Pittsfield, Me. , 
 
 Braden, J. E., Ravenwood, Mo. 
 Brader, H. S., 1089 Fayette St., Baltimore, Md. 
 Bradford, W. J., Marietta, Cal. 
 Bradley, A., Lee, Mass. 
 ' Bradshaw, A., Dallas, Texas. 
 Bread, D. A., Munroe, La. 
 Brepp, J. H., Glen Rock, Pa. 
 Brewster, Fred., Belmont, Maine. Carpenter. 
 Bricker, Robert A., Slate Lick, Pa. 
 Bridger, Theodore Ii., Brookline, N. H. Engineer. 
 Bridsall, W. M., Bangall, N. Y. 
 Brigham, George W., Roxbury, Vt. 
 Briggs, Edgar A., Manchester Bridge, N. Y. 
 Briggs, Chas. J., West Exeter, N. Y. > 
 
 Briggs, S~. P., Stephentown, N. Y. 
 
8 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Briggs, S. A., Verona, Mo. 
 Briggs, L. E., Taunton, Mass. 
 Briggs, Charles R., Dighton, Mass. 
 Brimmer, D., Hoosick, N. Y. 
 Broadbent, George C., Factoryville, Pa. 
 Brodie, John, London, West Canada. 
 Bronson, C. A., Ashfield, Mass. 
 Brookmyers, H. S., Clyde, Ohio. 
 Brooks, G. B., No. Grafton, Mass. 
 Brooks, C. L., Deanville, N. Y. 
 Brooks, Ella M., No. Grafton, Mass. 
 Brosius, Jacob, OJil, Pa. 
 Broughton, F., Black Jack, Mo. 
 Brower, John, Lapeer City, Mich. 
 Brown, D. K., Box 275, Manchester, N. H. 
 Brown, Uriah, Niagara Falls, Ontario. 
 Brown, Cornelius, Box 61, Dayton, Ohio. 
 Brown, Grant, Orwell, Ohio. Italian queens. 
 Brown, J. P. H., Augusta, Ga. Queens, bees and supplies. 
 Brown, W. L., Harrison, N. Y. 
 Brown, H. D., Hopkinton, Mass. 
 Brown, W. L., Augusta, Maine. 
 Brown, Arthur F., Huntington, Fla. 
 Brown, Mrs. E., Tecumseh, Mich. 
 Brown, J. Arthur, Rye, N. H. 
 Brown, H. R., Brattleboro, Vt. 
 Brown, Wells B., Fennisburg, N. Y. 
 Brown, D. C, Stamford, Conn. 
 'Brunsonj G. S., St. Albans, Vt. 
 Bruso, Chas., Worcester, Mass. 
 Buchanan, Milton> Pulaski, Pa. 
 Buchanan, J., Florence, W. Va. 
 Buchanan, T. R., Horseheads, N. Y. 
 Buck, Mrs. Annie E., New Milford, Conn. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 9 
 
 1889. PANSY APIAEY. 1889. 
 
 Write for my Price- List of Italian QiJeens and Apiarian 
 SuiTLiES. Also High-Class Poultry. 
 
 P. SUNDAY, Box SI, Goodells, Mich. 
 
 WM. DANIELS, Stoystown, Pa., 
 
 MANUFACTCKER 6F 
 
 CHAFF AND SINGLE -WALL BEE -HIVES. 
 
 . Dealer in Bee- Keepers' Supplies. Bees and Honey a 
 specialty. 
 
 ItoZtcCri Qizeeihs. 
 
 Untested, May, ;?i.25 ; June, $i.oo ; July, 90 cts. Send for 
 16-page Illustrated Price- List of Bees, Queens, Chaff Hives, 
 Barnes Foot-Power Saws, Langdon Miter-Boxes, and Apiarian 
 Supplies. Address 
 WILLIAM E. GOULD, Fremont, Newaygo Co., Michigan. 
 
 tDTT'l^ C;TTC313r TCrCl Wholesale 
 
 JD±LrL oU r'r^J-.iJljO, andeetail. 
 
 THE Largest Steam-Power Shops in the West; exclusively used to make 
 Everything needed in the Apiary, of practical construction and at 
 Lowest Prices. Italian Bees, Queens, 12 styles of Bee-Hives, 
 Sections, Honey-Extractors, Bee-Smokers, Bee-Feeders, Comb Founda- 
 tion, and everything used by Beekeepers always on hand. My Illustrated 
 Catalogue FREE. E. KRETCHMER, Coburg, Iowa. 
 
 Bee-Hives and Sections. 
 
 We make the best Bee-Hives, the best Sections, the best Shipping- 
 Crates, the best Frames, etc., etc. 8®" We sell thera at the Lowest 
 Prices. Write for free Illustrated Catalogue. 
 
 G. B. LEWIS & CO., Watertown, Wis. - 
 
 PURE ALBINO MES AND QUEENS. 
 
 For Sale in Pull Colonies or 3-Frame nuclei. Queens Tested or 
 untested. Chaff and Cary Imp. Ii. Hives, Sjirplus Sections, Foun- 
 dation, Surplus and Brood-Nest. 
 
 Root's Perforated Zinp, &c. Beeswax wanted. Address 
 
 A. A. BYARD, West Chesterfield, N. H. 
 2 
 
10 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Buck, Jno., Jr., No. Adams, Mass. 
 
 Buck, D. C, Dundee, Mich. 
 
 Buckholder, W. S., Otterville, Ont., Can. 
 
 Budlong, Mrs. E. Mi, loi So. Hill St., Los Angeles, Cal. ' 
 
 Budlong, Thos. J., Natick, R. I. 
 
 Buesenburg, Isaac, Mehton, Ind. 
 
 Bull, Joshua, Seymour, Wis. 
 
 Bullard, W. D., Hampden, Ohio. 
 
 BuUany, Thos. E-, Schuyler ville, N. Y. 
 
 Bunch, Chas. A., La Paz, Ind. 
 
 Bundy, Wm., Hitchcock, Ind. 
 
 Bunker, Mrs. A. E., Greensburg, Ind. 
 
 Burgers, C M., Council BlufiFs, Iowa. Dealer In hives and 
 
 frames, principally. 
 Burguine, J. H., Uth Branch, Minn. 
 Burhans, G. A., Cooksburg, N. Y. 
 Burkhart, W, S., Springs, Va. 
 Burmaster, F. C., Irving, N. Y. 
 Burries, Joe. E., Flatonia, Texas. 
 Bumham, L. E., Essex, Mass, 
 Burns, James, Ohl, Pa. 
 Burroughs, C. W. M., Hillsborough, N. J. 
 Burr, Miss A. S., Westport, Conn. 
 Burris, Mrs. J. W., Uvalde, Texas. 
 Burress, J. M., Glen Rock, Neb. 
 Burt, Taylor, Woodcock, Pa. 
 Burt, H., Portland, Oregon. 
 Burtis, H. O., Warren, R. I. 
 Burton, S., Eureka, Ills. 
 Bush, H. W., West Brookfield, Mass. 
 Busl^ell, Frank, Gilbertsville, N. Y. 
 Bus well. Turner, Solon, Maine. 
 Butler, N., Glen Ridge, N. J. , 
 
 Butler, Thomas, Chesterfield, N. H. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Butman, C, Plymouth, Maine. 
 Butterfield, J., Saxonville, N. Y. 
 Butterfield, Frank R.; Haddam, Kansas. 
 Butterford, Amos, Binghamton, N. Y. 
 Butts, C. E., St. Charles, Iowa. 
 Byard, Andrew A.. West Chesterfield, N. H. 
 Byard, John L., Townsend, Vt. 
 Byerly, David, Ohl, Pa. 
 
 Cairns,,Wm., Rockland, N. Y. 
 
 Caldwell, Rodney J., Boonville, Iowa. 
 
 Caldwell, A. S., Charlotte, N. C. 
 
 Calvelage, G. B., Haughville, Ind. 
 
 Calvert, L. C Poplar Flat, Ky. Carpenter. 
 
 Cameron, James, Homer, Ont., Can. 
 
 Cameron, J. R., Angelica, N. Y. 
 
 Campbell, J. H., Cowling, IE. • 
 
 Campbell, Chaa E., Columbus, N. Y. 
 
 Campbell, Joseph A., Deland, 111. 
 
 Canary, I. A. L., Brownsburg; Ind. 
 
 Canney, Thos., Poultney, Vt. 
 
 Capson, Henry, Uxbridge, Mass. 
 
 Capson, M., Uxbridge, Mass. 
 
 Carbino, Lewis, Potsdam, N^ Y. 
 
 Carle, Luther, Glen, Mont. Co., N. Y, 
 
 Carlill, Ben., Casino, New So. Wales", Aust. ' 
 
 (Carpenter, A. S., Gouveneur, N. Y. 
 
 Carpenter, W. W., Granville, O. 
 
 Carr, F. B., Acushnet, Mass. j 
 
 Carroll, B. F., Dresden, Texas. 
 
 Carson, Alexander, Mt. Vernon, N. H. 
 
 Carter, Albert, Carrollton, Mo. 
 
 Cartwell, W. A., Crowley, Texas. 
 
 Carver, H. J., Chicopee Falls, Mass. 
 
12 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Carver; Theodore, Mansfield, Mass. 
 
 Gary, Wm. W., Colraine, Mass. 
 
 Gary, Elmer G., Box 147, New York City. 
 
 Cassady, D. B., Litchfield, Minn. 
 
 Case, Alfred C, Hortonville, Mass. 
 
 Case, Gassius M., Portland, N. Y. ^ 
 
 Case, Dr. W. W., Zenas, Ind. 
 
 Case, C. O., New Britain, Conn. 
 
 Case, L. A., Newcomerstown, Ohio. 
 
 Cass, A. D., Hubbardston, Mass. 
 
 Caulkins, Mrs. W. O., Constantia, Ohio. 
 
 Cauthen, W. S., Pleasant Hill, S, C. Dealer in beekeepers' 
 
 supplies. 
 Caverly, John A., 381 Merrimack St., Manchester, N. H. 
 Cedarholm, J. P., Galesburg, Mo. 
 Chalfant, W. A., Danford, Ohio. 
 Chamberlin, S. M., Woodville, N. H. 
 Chapin, Irwin, 1 73 East Market St., Wilkes Barie, Pa. 
 Ghapin, Irwin, Town Hill, Pa. 
 
 Chaplin, Joseph, No. Manchester, Ind. Dealer in poultry. 
 Chapman, Ghas., Watkins, N. Y. 
 Chapman, Geo., Oxford, N. Y. 
 Chapman, H.C., Versailles, N. Y. 
 Chapman, Justice, Woodville, Mich. 
 Chase, Frank, Springville, N. Y. 
 Chase, H. B., Hickory, N. C. 
 Chase, J. K., Hortonville, Mass. 
 Chase, W. E., Warwick, Mass. 
 Chatterton, E. S., Acworth, N. H. 
 Cheney, E. P., White Store, N. Y. 
 Ghetfield, I. J., Birmingham, Mich. 
 Chigan, J. B., Youngstown, Ohio. 
 Chipais, J. G.,,St. Dennis, Quebec, Can. 
 Chipman, Wm. F., Mt. Carmel, 111. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 3 
 
 Chipman, W. H., Hope Valley, R. I. 
 Choate, Mrs. O., Morrisville, Vt. 
 Cholwell, G., Red Hook, N. Y. 
 Church, B. C, Jenison, Mich. 
 Churchill, J. H., Pawling, N. Y. 
 Clare, F. P., Oliver's Ferry, Ont., Can. 
 Clark, Geo., lidson, Northampton, Mass. Jeweler. 
 Clark, D. R., Summit, N. Y. 
 Clark, D. S., Down's Chapel, Del. 
 
 Clark, Wm. B., Oriskany, W. Y. Bealer in apiarian sup- 
 plies. 
 Clark, L. M., Tabor, Ind. 
 Clark, W. F., Guelph, Ont., Can. , 
 Clark, Geo. E., Northampton, Mass. ) 
 
 Clark, W. E., Oriskany, N. Y. 
 Clark, Irwin G., Victory, III. 
 Clehaffer, Jos., Lee, Mass. 
 demons, Henry M., Greenburg, Ind. 
 Close, Wm. E., Greenwich, Conn. 
 Clough, V. W., Geneseo, 111. 
 Clute, A. E., West Troy, N. Y. 
 Cochsenson, Sylvester, Primrose, Ohio. | 
 Coe, Asher M., Coe Ridge, Ohio. 
 Coe, F. M., Litchfield, Conn. 
 CoflSn, Horace, Salem, Mass. 
 Cogan, A. J., Bon Homme, Dak. 
 Cole, Albert M., Providence, E. I. • 
 Cole, Filmore, Lima, Ohio. 
 Cole, Mrs. H. J., East Freedom, N. H. 
 Cole, Miss Susie, Carmel, N. Y. 
 Cole,' Warren, West Boxford, Mass. , 
 
 Coleman, John, Box 392, Altoona, Pa. 
 Coleman, Nathaniel, West Falmouth, Mass. 
 Cbllman, Chas. B., Corning, Iowa. 
 
14 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 Colman, W. S., Newburyport, Mass. 
 
 Colwell, Samuel G., Providence, R. I. 
 
 Combs, Samuel, Foxboro, Mass. 
 
 Comforth, E., Thorndike, Maine. 
 
 Compton, Daniel, Troy, Pa- Carriage maker. 
 
 Compton, J. H., Cowling, 111. 
 
 Compton, O. S., Glenwood, Mo. 
 
 Comstock, Flora, Morrilton, Ark. 
 
 Comstock, T. K., Morrilton, Ark. 
 
 Conklin, Byron H., Fairport, N. Y, 
 
 Connell, D. E. Cooperstown, Ills. 
 
 Connell, Wm. C, Davidson River, N. C. 
 
 Connelly, R. A., Beaver Lick, Ky. 
 
 Conner, C. W., Ashton, Iowa. Poultry breeder. 
 
 Conway, Thos. D., Guelph, Ont., Ca. 
 
 Cook, C. L., Glen Rock, Neb. 
 
 Cook, H. W., Athenton, Ont., Ca. . 
 
 Cook, Henry, Columbia City, Ind. 
 
 Cook, Wm., Waterliet, Mich. 
 
 Coppin, Aaron, Wenona, 111. 
 
 Corbino, Lewis, Potsdam, N. Y. 
 
 Corey, B., Sutton, Nebraska. 
 
 Corey, Mrs. Betsey, Sutton, Nebraska. 
 
 Corey, Luther, Yorkshire, N. Y. 
 
 Corly, David, Milburn, New Jersey. 
 
 Cornell, S., Lindsay, Ont., Ca.. 
 
 Cosgriff, J. E., So. Burlington, Vt. 
 
 Costellow, C. W., Waterboro, Maine. Beekeepers' sup- 
 plies. 
 
 Cotton, John, Burnt Hills, N. Y. 
 
 Cottrell, N. E., Fayette, Ohio. 
 
 Coverdale, P., Welton, Iowa. Pairmer and stock raiser. 
 
 Coverly, John A., Manchester, N. H. 
 
 Cowe,' John, Goodland, Mich. 
 
THE KEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. IS 
 
 Craig, Andrew, Empire, Dak. 
 
 Craig, David, Macleay, Oregon. 
 
 Craig, Rev. S. L.,, Oakland, Ohio. 
 
 Cram, O. O., Bradford, N. H. 
 
 Cramer, E. D., White Haven, Pa. 
 
 Crandell, Frank P., Adamsville, R. I. 
 
 Crane, W. P., Charlton, N. Y. 
 
 Crawford, A. O., So. Weymouth, Mass. Labels, paper 
 
 boxes and glass jars. 
 Cribbs, H. A., Heshbon, Pa. 
 Crim, W. W., Pekin, Indiana. 
 Cripe, H- J., Patton, Ind. 
 Crocker, R. L., Lockport, IT. Y. Wakeman & Crocker's 
 
 box-constructor. 
 Crockett, W. A., Sterling, N. Y. 
 Croft, Wm., Hastings, Nebraska. 
 Crosby, M. M., Kennedy, N. Y. 
 Crosier, F., Readsboro, Vt. 
 Cross, F. C, Montague, Mass. ' 
 Cross, L. B., Adams, Mass. 
 Culler, J. R., Wooster, Ohio. 
 CuUiman, W. J., Mt. Auburn, Iowa. 
 CuUison, R. M., Adel, Iowa. 
 Cumins, A. W., Woodstock, HI. 
 Cunary, I. A. L., Brownsburg, Ind. 
 Cunningham, J. M., Carson, Iowa. 
 Currier, A. F., Duplain, Mich. Physician. 
 Currier, W. S., Warner, N. H. 
 Curry, Mrs. R. J., Canton, 111. 
 Curry, Wm., Renfrew, Pa. 
 Curtis, F. Wm., Stanberry, Mo. 
 Curtis, H. R., Box 127, Coos, N. H. 
 Curtis, Stephen C, Curtis ville. Mass, 
 Cushman, Samuel, Pawtucket, R. I. 
 Cutter, Sarah E., Marlboro, Mass. 
 
1 6 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Dahl, T. J., Stoughton, Wis. 
 
 Dalberg, Lewis, Oxford Furnace, N. J. 
 
 Dalby, Israel C, No. Scituate, Mass. 
 
 Dalton, G. W., Enola, Ark. 
 
 Damon, C. F., Pawtucket, R. I. 
 
 Damon, Miss Fannie C, Ashby, Mass. 
 
 Damon, Reubena, East Middlebury, Vt. 
 
 Daniels, Mrs. L. L., West Medway, Mass. 
 
 Daniels, Wm., Stoystown, Pa. 
 
 Darby, J. O., Florence, Texas. 
 
 Darke, 1. W., Columbia, Texas. 
 
 Darling, F. M., Oregon City, Oregon. 
 
 Darst, Cyrus, Squak, King Co., Wash. Ter. 
 
 Davidson, J. C, Wampum, Pa. 
 
 Davies, Mrs. S. P., N^annett, N. Y. 
 
 Davis, A. E., Jefferson City, Mo. 
 
 Davis, Alfred, Mineral Point, Ohio. 
 
 Davis, Carrie, Appleton, Wis. 
 
 Davis, E. A., Pittsfield, N. H. 
 
 Davis, Henry C, Barnstable, Mass. 
 
 Davis, Hilas D., Bradford, Vt. 
 
 Davis, I. W., No. Petersburg, N. Y. 
 
 Davis, L. D., Newport, R. I. 
 
 Davis, Nathan, Somerset, Mass. ' 
 
 Davis, R. T., Orlando, Ark. 
 
 Dawson, L., Champaign, 111. 
 
 Day, A. C, East Winfield, Maine. 
 
 Day, Mrs. Annie (Buckeye), Phoenix, Arizona. 
 
 Day, G. A., 92 Easton Ave., Gloucester, Mass. 
 
 Day, J. S., Mt. Pleasant, Utah Ter. 
 
 Deagle, Middleport, Gnt., Can. 
 
 Deahl, H. P., Berry ville, Va. Deals in sections and 
 
 crates. 
 Dean, A. G., Berrien Centre, Mich. 
 Dean, David R., Oakham, Mass. 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 1 7 
 
 BABWES' POOT-BOWBB MACHIlirBBY. 
 
 Eead what J. I. Parent of Charlton, N. Y. says :— "We out 
 with one of your Combined Machines last winter, 50 chaff 
 hives with 7 cap, 100 honey racks, 500' hrood-frames, aOOtt 
 honey boxes, and a great deal of other work. This \Yi°ter 
 we have double the amount of bee-hives, etc., to make, and 
 expect to do it all with this saw. It will do all you say it 
 win." Catalogue and Price-List free. Address, 
 
 ■W. F. & JOHU BAKITES CO., 
 
 ^ J755 Buby Street, Bookfordt 111. 
 
 BEE-KEEPERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Every Farmer and Beekeeper should have it. The ISth. 1,000, wholly 
 reTised, much enlarged. Contains many more beautiful illustrations andis 
 up to date. It is both Practical and Scientific. Prices : By mail, $1.50, To 
 dealers, $1.00. In 100 lots, by freight, 50 per cent. off. Address; 
 
 I 
 .A.. vT. COOIC, Agrioultural College, Mich. 
 
 EA-RLY OOLDEIV ITA.X.IA.T«ir QUEENS. 
 
 From the Land of Flowers. The most Southern point in the U. S. reached by 
 railroad. Bees fly every day in the year. *> 
 
 PRICES FOR FEBRUARY, MARCH AND APRIL. 
 
 Untested Laying Queens, each, $1.00 | Tested Laying Queens; each, $2.00 
 Safe arrival guaranteed. 
 
 BELLEVUE APIARY, Young G. Lee, Manager, Charlotte Harbor, Fla. 
 
 Offers for 1889, a Superior Line of Supplies. 
 
 OUR NONPAREIL BEE -HIVE 
 
 represents the latest improvements suited to the best management that has 
 yet been devised. It is the best hive before tlie public and was awarded 1st 
 premium over all the leading hives of the day at the Columbus Cen- 
 tennial. The section super for open-side sections and evevy otlier part of this 
 hive is new and has had an experimental trial of three years. Our White 
 Poplar' and new White Gum Sections, and Perforated Zinc are still in the 
 leadforperfect work, and our Doable-rowed Zinc Strips for honey boards is 
 the only practical and reliable work of the kind. yet made. Samples of sections 
 and zinc, 5 cents. Send for price-list. 
 
 ADDBSSS, 
 
 DR. G. L. TINKER, 
 
 New Philadelphia, - - - Ohio. 
 
1 8 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Dean, W. H., Burke, N. Y. 
 
 Deek, C. A., Staffordsville, Va. 
 
 Deer, C. W., Indian FaUs, N. Y, 
 
 De Freest, D., East Greenwich, N. Y. 
 
 Delamater, John A. E., Meredith, N. Y. 
 
 Deming, Herbert, Cornish Center, N. H. 
 
 Denham, J. M., Valley, Ky. 
 
 Denison, H. W., Edmeston, N. Y. 
 
 Dennis, Dulany, Whitely, Pa. 
 
 Deroche, Julius, Castleton Corners, Staten Island, N. Y. 
 
 De Roche, Mrs. R. M., Port Richmond, Staten Island, N. Y. 
 
 Detrick, Byron, Ransom, Mich. 
 
 Detwiler, J. Y., New Smyrna, Fla. 
 
 Dewey, A., Marshfield, Pa. 
 
 Dewitt, G. S., Homowack, N. Y. 
 
 Dews, Wm. H., Chesterfield, III. Deals in sections. 
 
 Deyoe, Chris., Dodgeville, Iowa. " 
 
 Dickerson, A. C, Bowling Green, Ky. 
 
 Dickerson, T. B., Hiawatha, Kans. 
 
 Dicks, Matthew, Unadilia, La. 
 
 Dickson, P. O., Harvard, Mass. 
 
 Dierdorff, Mrs. John D., Yale, Iowa. 
 
 Dilley, Ira, Mineral Point, Ohio. 
 
 Dines, Oscar, Fulton, N. Y. 
 
 Dings, Lyman, Hunters Land, N. Y. 
 
 Dockray, Clarence, Edgerton, Mich. 
 
 Dodge, B. G., Lancaster, Pa. 
 
 Dodge, Henry, Washington Mills, N. Y. 
 
 Dodge, O. A., Durham, Maine. 
 
 Donaldson, Parker, New Richmond, Ohio. 
 
 Donaway, G. J., Lansingburgh, N. Y. 
 
 Doolittle, M. A., Bethlehem, Conn. 
 
 Dooly, Rev. John, 399 Broome St., New York City. 
 
 Dopp, John T., Petersburgh, Pa. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 9 
 
 Doss, S. C, Danville, Texas. 
 Dow, Chas. E., 30 School St., Lawrence, Mass. 
 Dowler, P. C, New Paris, Ohio. 
 Dowling, W. E., Drovers' Home, Pa. 
 Downs, E. B., Downs' Chapel, Del. 
 Drane, E., & Son, Eminence, Ky. Farmers. 
 Drecher, E. C, Saxonburg, Pa. 
 Drinkwater, Robert, Grand Haven, Mich. 
 Drumel, E. V., Bellefonte, Pa. 
 Drummond, C. H., Winslow, Maine. 
 Duke, P. W., Nettleborough, Ala. 
 Dummer, J. N., Rowley, Mass. 
 Dunbar, Joseph, Mount Sterling, III. 
 Dungan, Wm. J., Box 64, Pine Meadow, Conn. 
 Dunlap, I. B., Rochester, Ind. 
 Durell, Rev. G. W., Somerville, Mass. 
 Durham, Henry, Sylvania, Ind., 
 Dutcher, Miss Grace M., Hopedale, Mass. 
 Dutton, James A., East Knox, Maine. 
 Duvall, Chas. D., Spencerville, Md. General supplies- 
 Dyer, E. F., So. Braintree, Mass. 
 Dykeman, E. P., Stamford, N. Y. 
 Dykes, James, Fish Creek, Ont., Can. 
 Dyson, F., Dempseytown, Pa. 
 
 Eager, Dr. C, Sharon Centre, Iowa. 
 
 Sakin, Dr. C. L., Wardstown, W. Va. Beekeepers' sup- 
 plies, mutton and wool, merino sheep. 
 Eastabrook, Austin, Grafton, Mass. 
 Eastman, J. H., Quechee, Vt. 
 Easton, J. E., Granby, Mass. 
 Easton, Thomas, Haddonfield, N. J. 
 Eaton, A. J., Worcester, Mass. 
 Eaton, E. F., Labette, Kans. 
 
20 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Eaton, Frank A. , Blufifton, OMo. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 
 Eaton, N. L., Ashbumham, Mass. 
 
 Eaton, Vernon, Mason, N. H. 
 
 Eberling, J. G. B., Galveston, Texas. 
 
 Eberly, J. W., Strasburg, Va. 
 
 Eckhoff, C. L., Standsted, Quebec. 
 
 Edmands, S. M., No. Brookfield, Mass. 
 
 Edmunds, Albert, Northwood Narrows, N. H. 
 
 Edsall, James N., Unadilla, Neb. 
 
 Edson, A. S., Martinsville, Mo. 
 
 Edwards, — Chester, N. H. 
 
 Edwards, Jas., Amprior, Ont., Ca. 
 
 Egleson, John, East Branch, Pa. 
 
 Ehlers, C. H.,, Pleasant Valley, Iowa. 
 
 Eiffert, Jacob, Milan, Pa. 
 
 Eldridge, Clias. L., New Bedford, Mass. Dealer in sup- 
 plies. 
 
 Elliott, G. W., Keene, N. H. 
 
 Ellis, D. W., East Portland, Oregon. 
 
 Ellis, J. H., Dixfield, Maine. 
 
 Ellison, Wm. J., Statesburg, S. C. Clerk. Deals in qu€ens 
 hives, etc. 
 
 EUithrope, J. S., Canajoharie, N; Y, 
 
 EUwood, P. H., Starkville, N. Y. 
 
 Elswort, Noblem Mt., Salem, Ont., Ca. 
 
 Ely, W. H., Allegan, Mich. 
 
 Emerick, W., Sumner, 111. 
 
 Emerson, L. M., East Providence, R. I. 
 
 Emery, A. T., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Emery, F. M., Troy, Vt. 
 
 Emery, J. G., So. Franklin, Vt. 
 
 Ergenbright, Benj. J., Round Grove, Ind. 
 
 Ergenbright, Jacob A'., Hopkins, Mo. 
 
 Erway, Mrs. Parker, Hastings, Mich. 
 
 Erwin, Jas., Christiansburg, Ky. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 21 
 
 Erwin, F. M., Newhall, Los Angeles Co., Cal. 
 Esch, J. F., Keeseville, N. Y. 
 Estey, S. B., North Dana, Mass. 
 Evans, Henry S., Romeo, Mich. 
 Evans, Herbert T.,*Townsend, Vt. 
 Evans, Thos* B., Emmons, Kans. 
 Everest, M. A., West Addison, Vt. 
 Everts, Rev. Charles, Gould, Ohio. 
 Ewbank, M. V., Wheatland, Ind. 
 Ewing, Wm., East Hampton, Mass. 
 Ewing, Wm. L., Vincennes, Ind. 
 
 Fairman, F. E., i6i E. 36 St., New York, N. Y. 
 
 Fairbanks, A. L. I., Larrabee St., Lynn, Mass. , 
 
 Falconer, J. , Iiigonier, Ind. Grower of small fruits. 
 
 Falwell, E. J., Pawnee Station, Kans. 
 
 Fargo, Fred H., Batavia, N. Y. Bees and poultry. 
 
 Farnurii, R., Sand Lake, Mich. 
 
 Faucett, H. P., Dilworthtown, Pa. 
 
 Fauke, Chas., Union, Maine. 
 
 Fay, O. N., Portland, N. Y. 
 
 Feak, Nicholas, Walton, N. Y. 
 
 Feast, Wm., Baltimore, Md. 
 
 Feathers. Harvey, Royalton, Wis. 
 
 Fellows, Mrs. Mary, Youngstown, Ohio. 
 
 Ferguson, Isaac, Winsted, Conn. 
 
 Ferree, Locke Ii., Milroy, Ind. Farmer, deals in supplies. 
 
 Ficker, Franklin, Blackleysville, Ohio. 
 
 Field, Thos., Chatham, Ont., Can. 
 
 Fillilove, J. H., Verona, Ky. 
 
 Fine, John D., Vincennes, Ind. 
 
 Fioeher, Hugo, 235 8th street, Oshkosh, Wis. 
 
 Firman, A. M., Quasqueton, Iowa. Tested queens only. 
 
 Fisch, J. G., Muscatine, Iowa. 
 
2 2 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Fish, W. G., Ithaca, N. Y. 
 Fishback, J. S., Marshall, 111. 
 
 Fisher, B. IT., Ludlow, Mass. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 Flanagan, E. T., Bellville, 111. 
 Fleming, M. J., Box 182, Hillsdale, Mich. 
 Fletcher, A. P., Ludlow, Vt. 
 Fletcher, Lester N., So. Acton, Mass. 
 Flickinger, A., Winthrop, Iowa. 
 Flint, D. D., Dexter, Maine. 
 Flister, E., 161 Fayette St., Boston, Mass. 
 Flood, Mrs. James, Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 Flood, Jennie, Packard St., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 Flory, J. P., Lemoore, Cal. Deals in foundation. 
 Flory, C. P., Eaton, Ohio. 
 Floyd, C. Frank, Waterville, N. Y. 
 Flynn, Thos. D., Gaylordsville, Conn. 
 Fogt, John, Box 267, Ord, Nebraska. 
 Forbes, S., Waldo, Forestville, Conn. 
 Ford, Geo. J., Carlton Station, N. Y. 
 Ford, Wm., Dover, N. H. 
 
 Parnerook, G. & Co.,Watertown, Wis. One-piece sections. 
 . Fosdict, M., Williams, Mich. 
 Foss, C. H., Box 30, Tilton, N. H. 
 Foster, A. J., Winthrop, Iowa. 
 Foster, I., Daretown, New Jersey. 
 Foster, Mrs. Isaac, Barry, 111. 
 Foster, Oliver, Mt. Vernon, Iowa. 
 Fowler, Edward, Lapeer City, Mich. 
 Fowler, Jas., Spartansburg, S. C. 
 Fox, Albert, Weston, Mich. 
 Fox, R. J., Natick, Mass. 
 Fozard, Jos., Marion, Ills. 
 
 Frame, H. G., No. Manchester, Ind. Bees and queens- 
 Francis, E. N., Uvalde, Texas. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 23 
 
 Francis, L., Spring Hill, Texas. 
 
 Francis, Paul, Mulberry, Mo. 
 
 Fraser, J. R., Moncton, N. B., Can. 
 
 Frazier, Isaac, Little Rest, N. Y. 
 
 Frazier, I., Chestnut Ridge, N. Y. 
 
 Frazier, I., Millbrook, N. Y. Hives, frames, smokers, etc. 
 
 Frederickson, Lass., Cobden, Minn. _ 
 
 Fredericks, P. A., Tonawanda, N. Y. 
 
 Freeborn, S. I., Ithaca, Wis. 
 
 Freeman, Mrs. L. A., Lancaster, N. H. 
 
 French, F. H.. Dresden, Texas, 
 
 French,' James F., Canterbury, N. H. 
 
 French, V., Skokomish, Wash. Ter. 
 
 Frey, Gottlieb, Richland Centre, Pa. 
 
 Frost, Mrs. O. P., Dows, Wright Co., Iowa. 
 
 Fry, E. V., Earlham, Iowa. 
 
 FuUer, Chas., Unadilla, N. Y. 
 
 Fuller, S. T., Kennebunk, Maine. 
 
 Fuller, Silas, Makeport, Mich. 
 
 Funk, Wm. D., Sterling, Utah. 
 
 Furman, W. A., Ithaca, Mich. 
 
 Gage, J. C, Hammonton, N. J. 
 
 Gallup, Luther, Sterling, Conn. 
 
 Gale, C. W., Jefferson, N. H. 
 
 Gale, George, Howell, Mich. 
 
 GaUager, Louis, Farmington, Conn. 
 
 Gambell, F. E., Leicester, Vt. 
 
 Gantt, D. T., Steel City, Neb, 
 
 Gapp, Wm., Richford, Vt. 
 
 Gardner, Edson, Cazenovia, N. Y. Miller. 
 
 Gardner, John, Mt. Gilead, Ohio. 
 
 Gardner, K., Hoosick, N. Y. 
 
 Garis, S. H., Newark, N. J. 
 
24 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORy. 
 
 Garluth, A., Beachmont, Masff. 
 
 Garrett, H. W., Coeymans Hollow, N. Y. 
 
 Garrison, Jno., East Greenbush, N. Y. 
 
 Gartside, J. M., 20th ward, Heville St., Pittsburg, Pa. 
 
 Gates, S. C, Norwich, Conn. 
 
 Gay, Miss M. E., No. Charleston, N. H. 
 
 Gaylord, R. S., Hadley, Mass. 
 
 Gedge, Thomas, La Salle, 111. Hives, sections, bees and 
 
 queens. 
 Gee, Chas. A., Abbotts, N. Y. 
 Geldard, James, Berkley Mill, Ashton, R. I. 
 Genthner, D. E., Dover, Me. 
 George, F. W., Williamstown, Iowa. 
 George, Julius, Mendon, Mass. 
 Gerald, I. S , Bird Island, Minn. Pharmacist. Deals in 
 
 hives and frames. ' 
 
 Gere, C, East Springfield, Pa. Fruit grower. 
 Gerhart,A. Paul, Telford, Pa. 
 Germarm, Louis W., Millington, N. J. 
 Gerrish, Chas. V., Rochester, N. H. 
 Gibbens, F. H., Fostoria, Ohio. 
 Gibbs, Wm. H., Clinton, Mass. 
 Gielham, T. P., Lincoln, Texas. 
 Gilbert, Chas., Middleton, Conn. 
 Gilbert, Wm., Barre, Mass. 
 Gilchrist, S. B., Goffstown, N. H. 
 Giles, Alfred, Comford, Texas. 
 
 Giles, J. Edward, M. D., 127 East i6th street, N. Y. City. 
 Gill, A. C, New California, Ohio. 
 Gillett, I. W., Batavia, N. Y. 
 Gillett, J. P., Marshall, Mich. 
 Gillinghan, W. E., Gillinghan, Wis. 
 Oilman, Hiram, Lake Village, N. K. 
 Gilmiore, J. P. R., Long Plain, Mass. 
 Glacier, C. A., Chariton Depot, Mass. 
 
THE BKEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. B5 
 
 The Queen Breeders' Journal. 
 
 E. I.. Fratt, Fub., Marlboro, Maas. 
 A 16-page Monthly devoted to Queen Breeders and Queen Rearing. 
 Price 50 cents a year. Send your name on postal and receive a sam- 
 ple copy of tliis briglitnew journal. Address, 
 
 THE 0. B. JOURNAL, 175 Main St., Marlboro, Mass. 
 
 L. T. HOPKINS, 
 
 Dealer in Comb Foundation, Bingham Bee-Smokers, etc. 
 
 Breeder of Italian Queens, Iiight Brahma, Buff Cochin and Brown 
 
 IieBhom Fowls,, also imperial Pekin Ducks, Buff Cochin Eggs, 
 
 per setting, $5.00. Light Brahma and Brown Leghorn Eggs, 
 
 $3.00per setting. Ducks Eggs, per dozen, $1.50. 
 
 FRANKLESr CO.. CON""WAY, MASS, 
 
 EGS^&S FOR HATCHING. 
 
 FROM PaiZE-WINNINQ STOCK. 
 White Wyandotte, per 13 Eggs, $2.00 | Plymouth Rock, per 13 eggs, $1.00 
 
 ' Laced, " " 1.90 | Pekin Ducks, Cranhina strain, per 
 
 Muscovy Ducks, " " 2.00, 1 11 eggs, 1.00 
 
 Black Turkey, per 9 eggs, 3.00 | 
 
 YOUNG STOCK FOR SAIM IN SEASON. 
 
 Address orders to, BDOAB BRIGQS, Manchester Bridge, 19°. T 
 
 ITALIAN QTT:EJE:2sr8 
 
 FROM 
 
 IMPORTED AND ALLEY QUEEN MOTHERS. 
 
 Customers to haveltheir choioe at same prices. 
 
 Untested : Mar., Apr., ^2.50 ; May, June, $1.50 ; July to Oct., ^i.oo 
 Tested: " " 4.00; " " 3.00; " " 2.50 
 
 Sleected: " " 6.00; " " 4.00; " " 3.50 
 
 Pound of bees, May, June, $1.50 ; July to Oct. ^i.oo. 
 Frame of brood,^" " 1-50; " " 1.50. 
 
 Customers desiring to have queens fertilized in their own api- 
 aries can be fiimished with virgin queens at the same prices of 
 untested from May ist to last of October. 
 
 ^W. J. TLOi^^, 
 
 Westmoreland Co. Greensburgh, Pa. 
 
26 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Gladding, Lewis, New Boston, Mass. 
 
 Glazier, Z., Gouldsville, Vt. 
 
 Glenn, J. M., Morristown, Tenn. 
 
 Glore, Wm., Milan, Mo. 
 
 Goble, Mrs. M. E., Pemberton, N. J. 
 
 Goddard, J. A., Grafton, Mass. 
 
 Godwin, J. G., Derry, N. H. 
 
 Goldinger, D. S., Tarentum, Pa. 
 
 Goodale, J. R., M. D., Pawtucket, R. I. 
 
 Goodell, C. H., Royalston, Mass. 
 
 Goodell, Roswell, Ann Arbor, Mich. 
 
 Goodrich, Francis, Crown Point, N. Y. 
 
 Goodrich, John, Fitchburg, Mass. 
 
 Goodrich, W. B., Union City, Pa. 
 
 Goodspeed, C. M., Thorn Hill, N. Y. 
 
 Goodwin, A. J., M. D., New Smyrna, Fla. 
 
 Goodwin, G. R., Diamond, Pa. 
 
 Goold, Allen C, Chester, Vt. 
 
 Gorden, A. W., Abilene, Kansas. 
 
 Gorden, Mrs. M. H., Whitefield, N. H. 
 
 Gorrell, M. L., Hebron, W. Va. 
 
 Gould, A. C, Providence, R. I. 
 
 Gould, J. J., Ipswich, Mass. 
 
 Gould, Wna. E., Fremont, Miclv Bees, queens, Barnes' 
 
 saws and bee-hives. 
 Graffis, Abraham, Bremen, Ohio. Farmer. 
 Gragg, Wm. F., Box 295, West Quincy, Mass. 
 Graham, S. G., Whitinsville, Mass. 
 
 Graham, W. E., Greenville, Texas. Dealer in beekeep- 
 ers' supplies. 
 
 Grant, Alexander, SpringviUe, Pictou Co., Nova Scotia. 
 
 Grant, J. G., No. Scituate, Mass. 
 
 Grant, W. W., Marion, 111. 
 
 Grass, A. S., East Portland, Oregon. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECIORY. 27 
 
 Crasser, G. H., Crete, Neb. 
 
 Craves, C. A., Whately, Mass. 
 
 Craves, D. E., Warren, Mass. 
 
 Craves, E. B., Welcome, Minn. 
 
 Craves, F. C, Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Craves, L. B., Nineveh, Ind. 
 
 Cray, John C, St. Catherines, Ont., Ca. 
 
 Cray, Luther, Orlando, Fla. 
 
 Cray, L. J., Merrimac, Mass. 
 
 Creely, E., Lorain, Ohio. 
 
 Creen, Chas. A., Corham, Maine. 
 
 Green, Charles E., Dryden, N. T. Merchant tailor. 
 ; Creen, Ceo. C, Providence, R. I. 
 
 Creen, J. A., Dayton, 111. 
 
 Creen, J. C, Diamond, Pa. 
 
 Creen, J. V., Naskaynna, N. Y. 
 
 Creen, R. F., 121 Spring St., New York, N. Y. 
 
 Creen, Seth, No. Creenwich, N. Y. 
 
 Creenleaf, J. C, New Boston, Mass. 
 
 Gregg, Josiah, Visalia, Gal. 
 
 Gregory, H. L., Atlay, N. Y. 
 
 Gregory, J. B., Garrattsville, N. Y. 
 . Greiger, J., North Danville, N. Y. 
 
 Gresh, Abel, Weedville, Pa. 
 
 Cresh, Henry, Ridgeway, Pa. 
 
 Greutzner, Edward,' New Dundee, Ont., Can. 
 
 Griffin, C. F., Stamford, Conn. 
 
 Griffin, Wm., Mamaroneck, N. Y. 
 
 Griffith, J. H., Beaver Lick, Ky. 
 
 Griffith, Peter C., Pittston, Pa. 
 
 Creengo, A. L., Colgate, Wis. 
 
 Grim, Wm. W., Pekin, Ind. 
 
 Grisworld, Fred., Lebanon, N. H. 
 
28 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 GrofF, Geo. G., Lewisburg, Pa. 
 
 Gruihm, Christopher, Jefferson, Wis. 
 
 Gumberger, Jno., Neillsville, Wis. 
 
 Gumbett, M.; Ohl, Jefferson Co., Pa. 
 
 Guptill, HoUis, Berwick, Maine. 
 
 Guy, E. E., Yardly, Pa. 
 
 Guyware, John P., Taunton, Mass. 
 
 Gwynn, Joseph, Jefferson, Pa. 
 
 Gzett, J. A., 1 1 63 Walton St., Denver, Colo. 
 
 Haas, Frank, Piedmont, Kans. 
 
 Hackett, H. P., Rives, Richland Co., Ohio. 
 
 Haeger, John F., Hill City, Tenn. 
 
 Haigh, David, Alma, Wis. 
 
 Haines, J. C, Mohawk, N. Y. 
 
 Hake, Geo., Goshen, Ind. 
 
 Hall, F. D. F., Fredonia, N. Y. -^ 
 
 HaU, Geo. J., Rumney, N. H. 
 
 Hall, G. M., Calhoun, Ga. 
 
 Halladay, E., Suffield, Conn. 
 
 Hallock, H. T., San Jacinto, Cal. 
 
 Hamden, L. P., East Fryburg, Maine. 
 
 Hamilton, Geo., Plank Road, N. Y. 
 
 Hamilton, J. L., Adamsville, Tenn. 
 
 Hamilton, P. H., Paris, Ont., Can. 
 
 Hamilton, Robt. G., Milford, Pa. 
 
 Hamilton, Wm., 223 Main St., Louisville, Ky. 
 
 Hamley, John C, 104 Oxford St., Lynn, Mass. 
 
 Hamlin, P. M., Pittston, Pa. 
 
 Hamlin, W. F.. Decatur, Mich. 
 
 Hammond, Geo. T., Brockport, N. Y. 
 
 Hancock, Geo. B., Roslindale, Mass. 
 
 Hancock, Jos., Jenkintown, Pa. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 29 
 
 Hanford, W., Etna, Tompkins Co., N, Y. 
 Hanner, J. K. P., Calvert, Texas. 
 Hanks, Arthur R., Charles River Village, Mass. 
 Hansford, O.T , Moxmt Glare, W. Va. Sealer in hives, sec- 
 tions and smokers. 
 Harger, E. B., Oxford, Conn. 
 Harker Brothers, Homerstown, N. J. 
 
 Harmon & Skinmer, Zenos, Arizona. Dealers in beekeep- 
 ers' supplies. 
 Harper, John H., Phillipsburg, Pa. 
 Harrington, H. S., Walden, Vt. 
 Harris, D. G., Prairie du Chien, Wis. 
 Harris, D. P., Clinton, Ills. 
 Harris, E. W., Wihnare, Ky. 
 Harris, Jas., Ortonville, Iowa. 
 Harris, Wm. C, East Toledo, Ohio. 
 Harrison, J. H., Wayback, Texas. 
 Hart, W. S., Hawks Park, Fla. 
 Hartman, J. W., Florence, W. Va. 
 Hartwell, Jas. C, Lake Creek, 111. 
 Hartwick, Isaac, Lorain, Ind. 
 
 Harre:^, James, Brooks, la. Hives and sections. 
 Harvey, J. C, Jessup Station, Maryland. 
 Haskin, A. S., Lawrence, Mich. 
 Haskin, S. D., Waterville, Minn. 
 Haskin, S. J.,Waterville, Minn. 
 Haskins, J. W., Bronson, Mich. 
 Haslett, P. N., GuyviUe, Pa. 
 Hassen, Jas. G., Ebensburg, Pa. 
 Hastings, Horace, Willapa, Wash. Ter. 
 Hastings, S. R., Harshmon, Ohio. 
 Hatch, F. W., Reading, Mass. 
 Hatch, G. W., Ischua, N. Y. 
 Hatfield, A. J., South Bend, Ind. 
 
go THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 Hathaway, A. W., High Hill, Mo. 
 
 Hathaway, L. W., So. Hanover, Mass. 
 
 Haupt, Isaac, Bellfonte, Pa. 
 
 Havens, Francis D., Box 455, Santa Barbara. California 
 apiarian. 
 
 Hawk, Z. T., Audubon, Iowa. 
 
 Hawkins, John H., Mt. Etna, Ind. 
 
 Hawkins, Wm. D., Oneonta, N. Y. 
 
 Haworth, Justin L., Georgetown, 111. 
 
 Hayen, Wm. Q., Pleasant Slound, 111. Blacksmith. Dealer 
 in bees and bee-hives. 
 
 Hayes, Jas., Adel, Iowa. • 
 
 Hays, Geo. H., Taylor, Texas. 
 
 Hays, John R., Payup, Ga. 
 
 Hays, L., Red Bank, N. J. 
 
 Hay ward & Stratton, East Pepperell, Mass. 
 
 Heacock, S. P., Chillicothe, Iowa. 
 
 Heath, Andrew, So. Norwalk, Conn. 
 
 Hecht, H. A., Chillicothe, Ohio. 
 
 Heckensmith, S. B., Switzer, Ky. 
 
 Heddon, James, Sowagiac, Mich. Publisher and dealer 
 
 in hives, bees, queens, etc. 
 Heim, Alwih L., Chandler, Ind. 
 Heiney, Daniel, Andrews, Ind. 
 Heivly, A. J., Lebe, Kans. 
 
 Heivly, Wm. O., Baymore, Mo. Deals in supplies. 
 Helsel, Zolius, Edgarton, Mich. 
 Henderson, J. J., Rosston, Cook Co., Texas. 
 Hengst, Elias, Loganville, Pa. 
 Heni, Fred, Morrill, Kans. 
 Henley, L., Mt. Carroll, 111. 
 Henry, G. A., So. Acton, Me. 
 Henry, Lafayette, Waldon, Mich. 
 Henry, Thos., Bradyville, Iowa. 
 Heott, Andrew, So. Norwalk, Conn. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 3 1 
 
 Herbert, John, Reese, Mich. 
 
 Herbert, T. J., Iredel, Texas. Physician. 
 
 Heron, I. S., Marshfield, Oliio. 
 
 Herring, Charles M., Brtinswick, Maine. Hives and 
 
 foundation. 
 Hershiser, O. L., Water Valley, N. Y. 
 Hervey, Joel, Blackstone, Mass. 
 Hesmer, John, 616 Main St., Evansville, Ind. Cooper- 
 
 wright. 
 Hess, Louis, Cobleskill, N. Y. 
 Hess, Wm., Conway, Ark. 
 Hetherington, Capt. J. E., Cherry Valley, N. Y. 
 Heyward, Wm., Stafford, N. Y. 
 Hickox, W., Rockpoft, Ohio. 
 Hicks, J. M., Battle Ground, Ind. 
 Higginbotham, S. T. B., Grantland P. O., Va. 
 Hill, Amos S., Lime Works, Ky. 
 Hill, Henry C, Bethlehem, Coim. Foundation. 
 Hill, I. S., Mt. Healthy, Ohio. 
 Hill„ Lloyd, Titusville, Pa. 
 Hill, M. S., Lompoc, Cal. 
 HiU, V. F., St. Francisville, Mo. 
 Hill, Wm., Prophetstown, 111. 
 Hiller, J. H., Ogden, 111. 
 Hillman, W. J., Green River, Vt. 
 Hills, Mrs. H., Sheboygan Falls, Wis. 
 Hilton, Geo. £., Fremont, Mich. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 Hine, Alvin L., Chandler, Ind, 
 Hine, Wm., Bethlehem, Conn. 
 Hitchcock, E., Kendall Creek, Mo. 
 Hitchcock, J. C, Waterbury, Vt. 
 Hitchcock, Selden B., Westfield, Vt. 
 Hixon, Levi, Glen Oak, Ont., Ca. 
 Hobson, Jno. F., Winchester, Va. ' 
 
 Hoffman, C. L., Petersburg, Pa. 
 
32 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Hoffman, Chas., Beach Ridge, N. Y. 
 
 Holbrook, R. B., Mt. Clare, W. Va.^ 
 
 Holcomb, Amasa, Southwick, Mass.* 
 
 Holden, A. C, Foxboro, Mass. 
 
 Holden, Henry, LangdoH, N. H. 
 
 HoUenback, G. L., Box 59, Noblesville, Ind. 
 
 Holley, Edward, West Farmington, Maine. 
 
 Holloway, D. R., Parsonburg, Md. 
 
 Holloway, Wm. L., Ainger, Ohio. 
 
 Holly, Chas. E., West Farmington, Maine. 
 
 Holtfies, M. E., Dorchester, Neb. 
 
 Holmes, R. H., Shoreham, Vt. 
 
 Holmes, Wm., Athens, N. Y. 
 
 Holt, B. H., Adel, Iowa. 
 
 Holt, J. H., Southington, Conn. 
 
 Holterman, R. T., Brantford, Ont., Ca. 
 
 Holtmann, J. F. W., Redbud, 111. 
 
 Hoover, George, Canal Fulton, Ohio. 
 
 Hoover, Oliver, Snyderstown, Pa. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 
 Hopkins, Adah L., East Charleston, Vt. 
 
 Hopkins, Richard, Bear Grove, Iowa. 
 
 Hopkins, Samuel T., Conway, Mass. Foundation, hlYes, 
 
 and smokers. 
 Hopkins, Stephen, West Walworth, N. Y. 
 Horner, Joseph H., Angelica, N. Y. 
 Horst, David H., North Lawrence, Ohio. 
 Horton, Wm., A., Macy, Ind. 
 Houghton, Chas. A., West Medway, Mass. 
 Houghton, F. J., W. Westminister, Vt. 
 
 Houghton, Frank A., Harvard, Mass. Sections and foun- 
 dation. 
 Hoult, Francis, Milton, Oregon. 
 House, A. B., Council Bluffs, Iowa. 
 House, Geo. W., Manlius, N. Y. 
 House, Oscar, Edgarton, Mich. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 33 
 
 ^W. T. FALCpNER, 
 
 JAMESTOWN, N. Y., 
 Manufacturer of a Full Line of 
 
 APIABIA N SU PI^LIES. 
 
 My business has been built upon the bases of SUPERIOR WORK- 
 MANSHIP and MATERIAL. I manufacture every style of Simplicity 
 Hive, and in addition the Falcon Chaff Hive, with Movable Upper 
 Story, which has met with unbounded success, as is evidenced by increased 
 sales from year to year. There are several thousands in use, and all giving 
 universal satisfaction. I also manufacture the Chautauqua Hive, 
 with Dead-Air Spaces in place of chaff. This hive is the Cheapest 
 Winter Hive made, and, as it, has been on the market for three ven- 
 ters and proved a superior one for wintering, is rapidly increasing in de- 
 mand. It is nearly as hght as a single-walled Simplicity Hive, and is 
 really more convenient, as the inside arrangement is SIMPLE and ES- 
 PECIALLY PLANNED for easy manipulation. 
 
 I also manufacture "Paloon Brand" Foundation, which I 
 guarantee to be equal to any made. 
 
 Send for ILLUSTRATED PRICE-LIST frhTe. 
 
 BEE-KEEPERS, LOOK HERE ! 
 
 A Complete Hive for Comb Honey for Only $1.30. One- 
 Piece V-Groove Section a specialty. 
 Price-List free. • 
 
 J. M. KINZIE, Rochester (Oakland Co.), Mich. 
 
 ITALIAN BEES AND QUEENS. 
 
 ' QUEENS; Bees by the pound and nuclei. Also EGGS for HATCH- 
 ING, from Iiight Brahma and Wyandotte Poultry. Write for 
 Prices, stating what you want. Address, 
 
 H. G. FRAME, North Manchester, Ind. 
 
 Eaton's Improved Section-Case 
 
 Is the Best, Most Complete, keeps the Sec- 
 tions Clean, Durable; will last a lifetime. 
 For Free Descriptive Catalogue of Case< Bees and Queens, address, 
 
 FiyVNK A. EATON, Bluffton, O. 
 5 
 
34 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Housel, Wm. E., Croton, N. J. 
 
 Howard, C. H., Raritan, N. Y. 
 
 Howard, Ezra E., Edgar, Neb. 
 
 Howard, Geo. P., Marion, N. Y. 
 
 Howard, Geo W., Delta, Colo. 
 
 Howard, J. W., Windham, N. Y. 
 
 Howard, Lorenzo D., East Sangerfield, Maine. 
 
 Howard, Ogle, Paloma, 111. 
 
 Howe, D. L., Woodstock, Vt. 
 
 Howe, Geo. D., North Hadley, Mass. 
 
 Howe, John H., Mansfield, Mass. Sells bees. 
 
 Howell, A. W., W. Lawrence Station, N. J. 
 
 Howell, J., Kenton, Tenn. 
 
 Howell, John W., Kenton, Tenn. 
 
 Howerton, J. S., Guntown, Miss. 
 
 Howie, John R., Northfield, Maine. 
 
 Howie, Samuel, Lyons Falls, N. Y. 
 
 Howland, H. C., Oxford, N. Y. 
 
 Howland, Levi C, Beaufort, N. C. 
 
 Hoyt, G. H., Otisco Center, N. Y. 
 
 Hoyt, Jason R. C, Webster, N. H. 
 
 Hoyt, William, Ripley, Me. Beekeepers* supplies. 
 
 Hubbard, John, Walpole, N. H. 
 
 Hubbard, T.J., Iredell, Texas. 
 
 Hubbard, W. B., Royalston, Mass. 
 
 Hublpard, Wm., Pleasant Gap, Mo. 
 
 Hudgens, I. S., Newburg, Mo. 
 
 Hudgens, M. D., 625 Second St., Davenport, Iowa. 
 
 Hudgens, T. W., Silver Creek, Ky. 
 
 Huffer, I. N., Shelbyville, 111. 
 
 Hulett, Edson, Pawlet, Rutland Co., Vt. 
 
 HuUman, L. R., Winfred, Lake Co., Dak. 
 
 Humphrey, Samuel, Henning, 111. 
 
 Hunnewell, Alonzo A., New Gloucester, Maine. 
 
THE BEEKEEPKRS' DIRECTORY. 35 
 
 Hunt, Aaron, Gordon, Ohio. Farmer. General supplies 
 
 for the apiary. 
 Hunt, John, Plain City, Ohio. Clergyman and school 
 
 teacher. 
 Hunter, John H., Perryville, Ohio. 
 Huntington, W., Wilton, Conn. 
 Hurd, George A., So. Acton, Maine. 
 Huse, Mrs. T. P., Methuen, Mass. ' 
 
 Hutchins, F. C, Massena, N. Y. 
 Hutchins, Isaac, Wellington, Maine. 
 Hutchinson, Wm., Down's Chapel, Del. 
 Hutchinson, W. Z., Flint, Mich. Editor and proprietor 
 
 of Beekeepers' Beview (Uonthly) 60 ots. per annum. 
 Hyde, A. P., Oxford, N. Y. 
 Hyde, L. C, Brightwood, Mass. 
 Hyne, J. M., Stewartsville, Ind. 
 Hyne, Jas. F., Stewartsville, Ind. 
 
 Jackson, Geo., Madison, N. H. 
 
 Jackson, Jesse, Ossipee Valley, N. H. 
 
 Jackson, Jonathan, Moiiltonville, N. H. 
 
 Jacobs, A. A., Jamestown, N. Y. 
 
 Jacobs, Mary, Kendall ville, Ind. 
 
 Jacobs, W. B., Temperanceville, Va. 
 
 Jacocks, J. J., Windsor, N. C. 
 
 Jaggers, Chas. D., Vorden, Pa. , 
 
 James, Theodore, lo Montgomery St., No-. Adams, Mass. 
 
 Janeway, J. L., 102 Chelton Ave., Germantown, Phil'a, Pa. 
 
 Jarmon, Wm. E., Elgin, ^Texas. 
 
 Jarret, J. R., Falls Village, Vt. ' 
 
 Jef&ey, H. !■., Ifew Preston, Conn. Seals in queens. 
 
 Jeffrey, Russell, BloutsviUe, Ind. 
 
 Jenkins, J. W., I^ownsefid, Vt. 
 
 Jenness, S. A., Haverhill, Mass. > 
 
 Jennings, Aaron, Medusa, N. Y. 
 
,6 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Jennings, Theodore, Box 69, Portchester, M . Y. Deals in 
 
 queens, hives, sections, etc. 
 Jewett, F. E., East Rindge, N. H. 
 Jewett, Geo. F., Apalachin, N. Y. 
 Johnson, A. B., Clarkton, N. C. 
 Johnson, A. D., Saugus, Mass. 
 Johnson, B. R., Box 95, Bois d'Arc, Mo, 
 Johnson, C. S., West Brookfield, Mass. 
 Jbhnson, Chas., Box 43, Latimer, Iowa. 
 Johnson, D. H., Danielsonville, Conn. 
 Johnson, F. B. Litchfield, Conn. 
 Johnson, F. L., Cottage, N. Y. 
 Johnson, Francis N., Knoxville, 111. 
 Johnson, G. W., Holden, Mo. 
 Johnson, Gustavus, Laytonville, Cal. 
 Johnson, Jas. T., Salem, Mo. 
 Johnson, Lafayette, Walton, Ky. 
 Johnson, L. E., Lady Lake, Fla. 
 Johnson, T. L., Vernon, Vt. 
 Johnson, Walter F., Fairmount, Ark. 
 Johnson, W. K., Oxford, Mass. 
 Johnson, W. T., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Johnston, C. A., Somerset, Ky. 
 Jones, A. R., Charlton City, Mass. 
 Jones, F. B., Howard, Minn. 
 Jones, Geo. W., West Bend, Wis. 
 Jones, J. H., Roxborough, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 Jones, Lewis, Dexter, Ont., Can. - 
 Jones, R. E., Uvalde, Texas^ 
 Jones, Richard, Copenhagen, Ont., Can. 
 Jones, Wm. W., Hubbardton, Vt. Blacksmith and 
 
 wheelwright. Deals in queens. 
 Jordan, H. A., AUston St., Brighton, Mass. Beal estate 
 
 agent. 
 Jordan, J. M., West Bowersville, Ga. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 37 
 
 Jordan, P. D., Ava, Ohio. 
 Jordan, W. B., Waltham, Maine. 
 Jordon, F. E., Camp V^ade, Arizona. 
 Joslyn, Fred. A., Fitchburg, Mass. 
 Josyin, 'Mrs. Mary, West Winfield, N. Y. 
 Joslyn, Sarah E., 56 York St., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 Judson, Ben, Salt Lake City, Utah. 
 Judson, Geo. A., Swampscott, Mass. 
 Judson, Lester, East Sidney, N. Y. 
 June, I. M., River Bank, Conn. 
 
 Kauffman, Daniel, Needy, Oregon. Beekeepers'/ supplies. 
 
 Keating, Edward, Elkhorn Station, Neb. 
 
 Keegan, Thos. P., Sleepy Eye, Minn. 
 
 Keigley, Geo., Waynesburg, Pa. 
 
 Keihl, C. H., Dayton, Ohio. 
 
 Keller, Henry, Rolla, Mo. 
 
 KeJley, J. M., 220 Church St., Norfolk, Va. 
 
 Kellogg, L. G., Ripon, Wis. 
 
 KeDy, M. A., Milton, W, Va. 
 
 Kelson, C. W., Antrim, N. H. 
 
 Kemp, W, L., Farmington,' Pa. 
 
 Kemper, J. H., Southport, Indiana. 
 
 Kendall, A. C, Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 KendaU, C. E., Short FaUs, N. H. 
 
 Kendall, H. P., Sterling, Mass. 
 
 Kendall, W. B., Uvalde, Texas. 
 
 Kendrick, J. R., Manchester, N. H. 
 
 Kenenon, W. P., Barre, Vt. 
 
 Kenenon, W. S., Peacham, Vt. 
 
 Kennard, H. J., L. Box 25, Epping, N. H. 
 
 Kennedy, A. B., Atlanta, Kans'. 
 
 Kennedy, Ira, Newcumberland, Ohio. 
 
 Kennedy, Robt., Bethany, Ont., Ca. 
 
jg THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Kenyon, Thos., Box 507, Hamilton, Ohio. 
 
 Kepner, E. H., Dunlap, Tenu. 
 
 Kern, J. J., Friedenson, Maryland. 
 
 Kerr, John, Greensburg, Pa. Deals in queens. 
 
 Kershner, G. W., Spanker, Ohio. 
 
 Kienle, Fred., East Hampton, Mass. 
 
 Killberg, P. A., Sealy, Texas. 
 
 Kimball, Frank, Cochituate, Mass. 
 
 Kimball, Wm., Dewitt, Iowa. 
 
 Kimbally, W. F., Natick, Mass. 
 
 King, Geo. W., 1692 31st St. W., Washington, D. C. 
 
 King, J. J., Brady's Bend, Pa. 
 
 Kingsbury, Geo. W., Clifton Springs, N. Y. 
 
 Kinne, H. N., GreenyiUe, Conn. 
 
 Kinney, G. W., Gaza, N. H. 
 
 Kinney, H. H., Renfrew, Pa. Oil producer. 
 
 Kinney, Warren C, Campello, Mass. Market gardener. 
 
 Kinsman, J. H., SomervUle, Mass. 
 
 Kinzie & Co., J. M., Rochester, Mich. Hives, frames and 
 
 foundation. 
 Kipton, James S., Williams Bridge, N. Y. 
 Kirby, Edw. P., Somerville, Mass. 
 Kirkley, Capt. Dennis, Toolsburg, Iowa. 
 Kline, W. E., Evans City, Pa. 
 
 Klock, Joseph, Urban, Pa. Clock and watchmaker. 
 Klutts, S. L., Clean Creek, N. C. 
 Knaper, N. D., Upper Jay, N. Y. 
 Knapp, Dummerston, Vt. 
 Knapp, H. H., Danbury, Conn. 
 Knapp, N. A., Rochester, Ohio. 
 Knight, J. R., Priitius, S. C. 
 Knight, W. E., Gardner, Mass. 
 Knight, W. E., Primus, S. C. 
 Knight, Ross, WeWfield, New York. 
 Knight, Walter, East Greenwich, R. I. 
 
I THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 39 
 
 Knight & Pray, Littleton, "Colorado.- 
 
 Knowles, E. C, Seaton, Oregon. 
 
 Knowles, Harry, Aubyrn, R. I. 
 
 Knowles, Nath., Ferrisburg,Vt. 
 
 Klnowles, Wm., Carholm, Ont., Can. 
 
 Knowlton, Susan C, Berne, Minn. 
 
 Knox, H. E., West Ossipee, N. H. 
 
 Kock & Dimity, Morgan City, La. 
 
 Koitham, Alvin, Shawnee, N. Y. 
 
 Koons^ D., East Boston, N. Y. 
 
 Kopetzky, Joseph, Crete, Neb. 
 
 Kratz, Wm. D., Hatfield, Pa. 
 
 Eretchmer, £. Coburg, Iowa. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 
 Kromer, C, Eden Center, N. Y. 
 
 Kropp, J. C, Millville, Cal. 
 
 Kyle, H. H., Beech City, Ohio. 
 
 Lacke, George, M. D., Neyburgh, Ind.^ 
 
 Iiacy, H. W., Mansfield, Mass. Laoy smoker, foundation, 
 
 queens and bees, a 
 Ladd, L. A., Summerville, Vt. 
 Lake Brothers, Catonville, Maryland. 
 
 Iiake, Charles H., Marion, W.Y. Farmer and fruit grower. 
 Lake, John T., Troy, Bell Co., Texas. 
 Lake, S. R., White Creek, N. Y. 
 Lakin, S. W., M. D., Eureka, 111. - 
 Lamaster, L. C, Honey Grove, Texas. 
 Lamb, D. W., Clare, Mich. 
 Lamb, F. M., Leicester, Mass. 
 Lamb, H., Jeddo, Mich. 
 Lamberlin, Ed., Parkville, Mo. 
 LSmbert, E. H., Iredell, Texas. 
 Lamkin, Ward, Goodyears, N. S. 
 Lane, C. F., Lexington, Mo. 
 
40 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Lane, G. E., Pinckney, N. Y. 
 Lane, W. A., So. Barre, Vt. 
 
 Lang, E., Birmingham, Conn. ' 
 
 Lang, Geo. W., Bismark, 111. 
 
 Lan^don, H. P., East Constable, M". Y. Beekeepers' sup- 
 plies. I 
 Larmer, E. J. F., Osceola, Va. 
 Larrabee, John H., Larrabee's Point, Vt. 
 Lathrop, S. F., Chase Lake, Mich. 
 Latimer, Wm. R., Bloomsfield, Conn. 
 Lattin, Lout, Statesburg, N. Y. 
 Lawford, T. W., Trenton Mills, Va. 
 Lawing, S. S., Henderson, Mo. 
 Lawrence, E., Gaines Station, Mich. 
 Lawrence, — , 723^ loth St., Washington, D. C. 
 Lawrence, Loren, Wayland, Pa. 
 Leach, A. L., Dwighty, 111. 
 
 Leahy, H. B., Hlgginsville, Mo. General supplies. 
 Leahy, R. H., Higginswlle, Mo. 
 Learie, J. R., Richfield Springs, N. Y. 
 Learned, A. K., So. Gardner, Mass. 
 Lee, Y. G., Charlotte Harbor, Fla. 
 Leeder, Wm. A., Dykes, Mo. 
 
 Leete, P. W., Sylvan Beach, N. Y. Civil engineer. 
 Lefavor, W. J., Pottsdam, N. Y. 
 Le fever, John, jr., York, Pa. 
 Leigh, E. C, Beatrice, ISfeb. 
 
 Leighton, A. W., Ascutneyville, Vt. ; 
 
 Leighton, E. B., Falmouth, Maine. 
 Leland, E. F., 495 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 
 Leonard, Chas. R., Royal Oak, Md. 
 Leonard, G. W., Middle Valley, Pa. 
 Leonard, Mrs. H. C, Pigeon Cove, Mass. 
 Leonard, Sam'l, Fairhaven, Mass. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 4 1 
 
 MUTH'S HONEY EXTRACTOR. 
 
 Perfection Cold-Blast Smokers, Square Glass Honey 
 Jars, etc., etc. Send loc. in postage stamps for " Practical Hints ' 
 TO Bee-Keepers." For circular, apply to 
 
 CHAS. P. MUTH & SON, 
 
 Cincinnati, O. 
 
 ITALIAN QUEENS A SPECIALTY. 
 
 Queens mated to unrelated drones and bred for business. Untested 
 Queens ready June lo; Tested, June 25. Untested selected, $1.60; Tested, 
 Ji-So; Selected Tested, ^2.50. Discounts on large orders. Full Colonies 
 and Nucleus on sale. 1 
 
 P. Ii. SMITH, Chittenango, N, Y. 
 
 HONEY CREEK BEE AND POULTRY YARDS." 
 
 A. 'WORTMAIf , Manager and Proprietor, 
 SEAFIELD, WHITE CO., IND. 
 
 Italian Bees and Queens, Foundation, Sections, 
 
 Hives, Smokers,' Etc., for sale at all times. 
 Also a fine collection of Thorongh-bred Poultry, Light Brahmas, Plymouth 
 Bock, Buff, Black and Partridge Cochin, Langshans, Wyandotte, S. C. 
 Brown Leghorn, Houdans and Spangle Hamburg. Eggs for sale in sea- 
 son. Stock for sale at all timSa. Prices reasonable. Send stamp 
 for catalogne. Address as above. 
 
 NOTHING SUOOEEDS LIKE SUCCESS. 
 
 I have made a success of producing Comb Honefy for the 
 past nin? years. My little pamphlet, "HoW I Raise Comb 
 Honey," briefly tells how I do it. By mail, 5 cents. My 
 Price-List of SUPPLIES, for 1888, free. Address, 
 
 GEO. Ei HIIiTOIf, Premont, Mich. 
 
 J. E. SiLI^DERSON, 
 
 Breeder and Dealer in 
 
 Pure Blooded Italian and AllDino Bees, 
 
 And Producer of Comb and Extracted Honey. Comb Foundation 
 and other supplies on hand. 
 ■WEST TCSV^NSHEN"!), "VT. 
 6 
 
4 2 THE BEfiKEEPERS' DIRECTORY/ 
 
 Leonard, S. R., 31 Lemon St., Newark, N. J, 
 Leonier, David G., Haddonfield, N. J. 
 Lewis, A. A., Waterbury, Vt. 
 Lewis, Chas. H., Middleton, Conn. 
 Lewis, Edwin, Harrietsville, Ont., Can. 
 Lewis, Geo., Monticello, Wis. 
 Lewis, Henry, Farmington, Conn. 
 
 Iiewis, Jacob F., Dennis, Kansas. Hives of his own de- 
 sign. 
 Lewis, N. B., Pine Hill, R. I. 
 Lewis, W. F., Santa Anna, Texas. 
 Lighty, L. W., Mulberry, Pa. 
 Lighten, Frank W., Newbury, Pa. 
 Lillie, J. A., Box 200, Raton, New Mexico. 
 Lincoln, Fred L., Castleton, N. H. 
 Livermore, S. M., So. Londonderry, Vt. 
 Lloyd, W. E., Arlington Heights, Mass. 
 Lobdell, A. J., East Berne, N. Y. 
 Lockhart, Lake George, N. Y. 
 Logan, H. B., Clearfield, Pa. 
 Loker, S. R., Natick, Mass. 
 Lombard, E. P., Ashburnham, Mass. 
 Looft, C. G., Forest, Ohio. 
 Loomis, T., Crete, Neb. 
 Lorelis, W. A-, Ozone, Ark. 
 Lormsburg, 0., Meriden, Conn. 
 Lorriman, Wm., Pottsville, Pa. 
 Loudon, S. B., Woodlawn, N. C. 
 Loutbian, L. W., Ranaleburgh, N. C. 
 Lovejoy, D. L., Martinsburg, N. Y. 
 Lowey, Robt., Woodrows, Ont., Can. 
 Lowrey, O. J., Jericho, Vt. 
 Lowrey, W. J., M. D., Harford, Pa. 
 Lucas, A. S., Barnes' Corners, N. Y. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 43 
 
 Lucas, J. A., Goshen, Conn. 
 
 Lucas, P. H., Mt. Vernon, N. Y. 
 
 Ludden, Sarah, Milton Mills, N. Y. 
 
 Ludy, C. W., Myersville, Md. 
 
 Lund, E. W., Baldwinsville, Mass. 
 
 Lusby, John G., Bridgewater, Iowa. 
 
 Iiuttrell, B. G., Iiuttrell, Ala. Hives, foundation and 
 
 queens. 
 Lyman, J. H., East Hampton, Mass. 
 Lynch, Chas. J., 625 Thames St., Newport, R. I. 
 Lynde, E. B., Westminster, Mass. 
 Lyon,C. S., 31 8th Ave., New York, N. Y. 
 Lyon, F. R., Stoughton, Wis. 
 
 Mace, T. B., Chillicothe, Ohio. 
 Mackey, D. C, Brimley, Ohio. 
 Mackey, L., Lafayette, Ind. 
 Macrae, J. A., Anthony, R. I. 
 Madlin, Sam'I, Moltke, Minn. 
 Magley, Wm. H., Coldwater, Mich.. 
 Mahoney, D., Fort Plain, N. Y. 
 Major, John, Cokeville, Pa. 
 Maley, A. E., Auburn, Neb. 
 Malone, Wm., Malone, Iowa. 
 Manchester, Duane, West Hoosick, N. Y. 
 Manchester, F. E., New Boston, Mass. 
 Manley, D. B., Danbury, Conn. 
 Mann, H. W., Walpole, Mass. 
 Manning, John W., Salineville, Ohio. 
 Mansfield, C. E., Fitchburg, Mass. 
 Mansfield, J. D., Dubberly, La. 
 Maraghano, Miss R., New Rochelle, N. Y. 
 Marble, E. F., Grafton, Mass. 
 Marchant, Dr. J. M., Warren, R. I. 
 
44 THE beekeepers' directory, 
 
 Markham, S. A., Ellington, N. Y. 
 Marks, W. F., Chapinville, N. Y. 
 Marple, J. P., Lancaster, Wis. 
 Marsh, C. A., Sharon, Vt. 
 Marsh, Rev. D. D„ Uniontown, Conn. 
 Marsh, H. W., M. D., Tannehill, Kans. 
 Marsh, M. P., No. Amherst, Mass. 
 Marsh, Wm., McLane, Pa. 
 Marshall, A. L., Pittsfield, Mass. 
 Marshall, W. B., Indiana, Pa. 
 Marston, Thos., Great Falls, N. H. 
 Martin, Hudson, Ashland, Mo. 
 Martin, John, Sandy P. O., Oregon. 
 > Martin, Wm., Cass City, Mich. 
 Mase, D. A., Mt. Hope, N. J. Deals in hives, frames, fouu- 
 
 dation, etc. 
 Mason, A., East Ofland, Maine. 
 Mason, H. W., Prostonville, Vt. 
 Mason, Henry, Monroe, La. 
 ^ason, L. L, Hartford, Conn. 
 Mason, Lot, Auburn, 111. 
 Mason, Wm. B. Masonville, Quebec, Can. 
 Massie, T. K., Concord Church, W. Va. 
 Maston, C. C, Dover, N. H. 
 Mathews, C. H., Ridgeway, Ont., Can. 
 Matterson, A. J., Anthony, R. I. 
 Mayhew, 8. L., Box 82, Falmouth, Mass. 
 Maynard, C. C, Harvard, Mass. 
 Maynard, L. M., Maynard,, Mass. 
 McBrown, H., Seward, Pa. 
 McCarty, O., ZoUarsville, Pa. 
 McCarty, Osman, Millsboro, Pa. 
 McClang, S. T., Niles, Mich. 
 McClees, J., Norwalk, Iowa. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 45 
 
 McCord, D. A., Oxford, Ohio. 
 
 McCormic, M. L., Grant City, Pa. 
 
 McCormick, Wm. B., Uniontdwn, Pa. 
 
 McCoy, John» Sobetha, Kansas. 
 
 McCracken, W. A., Cuba, Mo. \ 
 
 McCredie, E. P., Mongo, Ind. 
 
 McCuUy, Cyrus, Hubbar(J, Ohio. 
 
 MoBow, Bobert, Ashland, Mo. Farmer and stock raiser. 
 
 McElrath, P. J. B., Centre, Ala. 
 
 McFarland, F. H., Charlotteville, Vt. 
 
 McGlen, Miss A. W., Georgetown, Mass. 
 
 McGwire, G. W., Dark Ridge, N. C. 
 
 McHam, Frank, Teanaway, Wash. Terr. 
 
 McKinney, H. H., Renfrew, Pa. 
 
 McLain, S. W., Aurora, III. 
 
 McLane, N. D., North Brookfield, Mass. 
 
 McLaughlin, H., No. Springfield, Mo. 
 
 McLaughlin, Wm., Harmony, Maine. 
 
 McLaughlin, Wm., Cedar Springs, Mich. 
 
 McLean, Rod, Hopewell, Nova Scotia. 
 
 McLean, Miss C. S., Red Bank, New Jersey. 
 
 McMurray, George N., Auburn, Cal. 
 
 McMurray, R. D., I^adeville, Mo. 
 
 McTavish, John, Box 8i, Belmont, Ont., Can. 
 
 McWilliams, H. W., Griflln, Ga. Beekeeper's supplies. 
 
 Mead, A. F., Edwardsburg, Mich. 
 
 Meader, C. C, No. Auburn, Neb. 
 
 Meader, N. P., No. Auburn, Neb. 
 
 Meatyard, Robert, EUicott, N. Y. 
 
 Meeker, Myron, Hawleytown, N. Y. 
 
 Meggenhopen, E., Chillicothe, Ohio. 
 
 Megowu, John, Youngstown, Ohio. Brick and stone con- 
 tractor. 
 
 Melendy, A. D., Nashua, N. H. 
 
46 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Melius, Wm. H., Claverack, N. Y. 
 
 Melkin, Myron, Hawleytown, N. Y. 
 
 Meloon, Chas. O., Portsmouth, N. H. 
 
 Melvin, J. B., So. Chelmsford, Mass. 
 
 Menderhall, J. C, Washington, Ind. 
 
 Mentzer, Wm., Harvard, Mass. 
 
 Mercer, L. E., San Buenaventura, Cal. 
 
 Merchant, Abel, Nassau, N. Y. 
 
 Merriam, P. E., Shirley, Mass. Dealer in whalebone. 
 
 Merrill, E. C, West Hartland, Conn. 
 
 Merrill, W. J., M. D., Hampton, N. H. - 
 
 Messer, Joel, Bison, Tenn. 
 
 Metcalf, L. C, Reedsburg, Ohio. 
 
 Michael, Eugene, Lapeer, Mioh. Fruit grower and bee- 
 keeper. 
 
 Middlebrook, N. M., Patterson, Texas. 
 
 Miles, Geo. W., Teepleville, Pa. Deals in sections and 
 foundation. 
 
 Miles, F. H., Derby Line, Vt. 
 
 Miles, William F., Lompoe, Cal. 
 
 Millard, H. F., Danby, Vt. 
 
 Millard, N. T., Princeton, Wis. 
 
 Millegan, E.|K,, Maine Avenue, N. J. 
 
 Miller, A. C, Box i6, Meriden, Conn. 
 
 Miller, A. C, Providence, R. I. 
 
 Miller, A. F., Camden, 'Maine. 
 
 Miller, C. C, Marengo, 111. 
 
 Miller, H. E., No. Searsport, Maine. 
 
 Miller, H. K., Shoemakersville, Pa. 
 
 Miller, J. A., Middlesex, Pa. 
 
 Miller, J. J., Tunkhannock, Pa. 
 
 Miller, John, Lansingburg, N. Y. 
 
 Miller, P. D., Grapeville, Pa. Queen bee and poultry 
 raiser. 
 
 Miller, W. N., DeKalb, N. Y. 
 
THE BEKKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 47, 
 
 Miller, W. S., Durham, Maine. 
 
 Mills, Alpheus, Georgetown, Mass. 
 
 Mills, F. H., Samia, Ont., Can. 
 
 Mills, Geo., Delhi, Ont., Can. 
 
 Miner, D. V., Brownsville, Neb. 
 
 Miner, Oscar, Linden, N. J. 
 
 Miner, O. F., Taylor Centre, N. Y. 
 
 Mitchell, Daniel, Millbrook, N. Y. 
 
 Mitchell, J. R., Taylorstown, Pa. 
 
 Moe, M. W., 130 Broadway, Denver, Colorado. 
 
 Moltz, T. M., West Fairview, Pa. 
 
 Monzingo, Mrs. F. M., Clarinda, lo'wa.. 
 
 Moody, S. E., i6 John St., Room 8, Lowell, Mass. 
 
 Moore, B. F., Brushey/S. C. 
 
 Moore, E. A., Keno, Nevada. Sells hives, sections and 
 
 bees. 
 Moore, H. C, Pin Oak, Texas. 
 Moore, J. D., Sunnydale, Ont., Can. 
 Moore, L. P., Goffs Falls, N. H. 
 -Morgan, Chas., Franklin, Vt. 
 Morgan, Miss Ella A., Deering, Maine. 
 Morgan, Fred C, New London, Conn. 
 
 Morgan^ John, Belton, Texas. Farmer and cattle raiser. 
 Moriah Center Mill Co., Moriah Center, IV. Y. Hives, 
 
 sections, etc. 
 Morrill, A. A., Glenwood, Oregoh. 
 Morse, Chas., Harvard, Mass. 
 Morse, E. H., So. Wareham, Mass. 
 Morse, Miss M. B., Milford, Mass. 
 Morse, Quincy, Np. Hanover, Mass. 
 Morton, Hattie E., Newburyport, Mass. 
 Mory, J. J., Mrs., St. Henrys, Ohio. 
 Moshier, Miss I. E., Eidge Road, N . Y. 
 Mower, Simon, Upper Sandusky, Ohio. 
 Mowry, T. B., Oneco, Conn. 
 
^8 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Moyer, J. L., Quakertown, Pa. 
 
 Moyer, B..M., Primrose, Ohio. 
 
 Moyer, H. M., Hill Church, Pa. 
 
 Muckland & GJouver, Fruitland, Fla. 
 
 Mudgett, E. S., Gilmanton, N. H. 
 
 Mullock, L. J., Watertown, Ont., Can. 
 
 Mundon, James, Arthur, Grant Co., Wis, 
 
 Munroe, J. M., Embro, Ont., Can. 
 
 Munyan, J. C, Northampton, Mass. 
 
 Murdoch, Albert, Union Grove, Wis. 
 
 Murphy, Hiram, Gosport, Ind. 
 
 BCurray, J. B., Ada, Ohio. Deals in supplies of all kinds 
 
 for the apiary. 
 Murray, J. D , Wattsburg, Pa. 
 Muth & Son, Chas., Cincinnati, Ohio. General supplies 
 
 and dealer in honey. 
 Myers, F. A., Bismark, 111. 
 Myers, Oscar S., M. D., Wickford, R. I. 
 Myers, Mark, Lakeside, Cal. 
 Myers, Rev. S., Timberville, Va. 
 
 Nan'gle, J. H., Danvers, Mass. 
 Nash, A. H., Santa Monica, CaL 
 Nebel & Son, Jno., High Hill, Mo. 
 Needham, A. P., Vergennes, Vt. 
 
 Needles, J. P., Stanberry, Mo. Hives, sections and foun- 
 dation. 
 Neil, Ham., Farmersville, Texas. 
 Neill, N., 5 Lawrence Hall, Cambridge, Mass. 
 Nelson, A. L.,_ Ascutneyville, yt. 
 Nelson, B. R., Bernardston, Mass. 
 Nelson, L., Lakewood, N. J. 
 Nelson, Seth, Wistar, Pa. 
 Nelson, W. H., Cove St., New Bedford, Mass. 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 
 
 FOREIGN ORDERS SOLICITED. 
 
 49 
 
 (BEES.) —FOR— (QUEENS.) 
 
 Everything used by Beekeepers 
 
 EXCLUSIVE MANUPACTUBEK OP THE 
 
 Stanley Automatic Honey- Extractor. 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 NEW" JERSEY. 
 
 MASS. iCONN. 
 
 DADANT'S FOUNDATION, Wholesale or Retail. 
 
 White Poplar or Basswood Sections, 
 
 One-Piece, Dovetail, or to naU_, Any Quantity, any Size. 
 
 COMPLETE HACHIirBBT.— FINEST WOKK. Send for handsome 
 illustrated Catalogue, Free. 
 
 E. R. NEA^TCOMB, 
 
 Pleasant Valley, Dutchess Co., 
 
 M". Y. 
 
so 
 
 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Neville, R. M. D., Teegarden, Ind. Dealer in pure Holy 
 Iiand queens. 
 
 Nevins, J. R., Schuylersville, N. Y. 
 
 Neweomb, E. B., Pleasant Valley, W. Y. Deals in every- 
 thing used by beekeepers. 
 
 Neweomb, J. B., Litchfield, Conn. 
 
 Newell, E. C, Brookfield, N. H. 
 
 Newell, P. J., Willimantic, Mass. 
 
 Newlin, Aaron, Georgetown, 111. 
 
 Newman, J. H., Charlevoix, Mich. 
 
 Newman & Son, Thos. G., 925 W. Madison St., Chicago, 
 
 111. Publishers of the weekly American See Journal. 
 
 Deal in supplies. 
 Newton, Wm. A., Northfield, Mass. 
 Nichols, A. P., West Springfield, N. H. 
 Nichols, J. J., Berlin, N. Y. 
 Nichols, J. R., Rochdale, Mass. 
 Nichols, W. L., Richmond, Mass. 
 Nicholson, Jr,, Jos., Kuckville, N. Y. 
 Niles, M., Box 205, Merriton, Ont., Ca. 
 Nimetz, John, Ross Station, Ind. 
 Niver, H. C, Hudson, N. Y. 
 Noble, A. H., 34 So. Carroll St., Nashville, Tenh. 
 Noble, F. L., Marlboro, Mass. 
 Noble, W. P., East Franklin, Vt. 
 Northey, C. W., Whitefield, N. H. 
 Northrup, H. J., Lansingburgh, N. Y. 
 Norton, J. T., Winsted, Conn. 
 Noyes, Wm. H., EaSt Jefferson, Maine. 
 Nutting, A. F., Northampton, Mass. 
 
 Oakes, Fitz E., Gloucester, lyEass. 
 O'Brien, Sadie, Box 88, Rowley, Mass. 
 Offutt, Geo., New Edinburgh, Ark. 
 O'Kelley, Jr., G. W., Harmony Grove, Ga. 
 
THE BEKKEEPERS' DIRECTORY, 5 1 
 
 Oldfield, Wm., Live Oaks, Fla. 
 
 Oldham, J. C, M. D., 9J East Main St., Springfield, Ohio. 
 
 Osgood, Carrie, Westford, Vt. ' ' 
 
 Osgood, Miss Ella A., Boxford, Mass. 
 
 O'Sha, jr., Geo., Washington, Ind. Hives and sections. 
 
 Ostrander, Wm. H., Unadilla, N. Y. 
 
 Otis, G. H., Hastings, Mich. < 
 
 Owen, J. W., 64 Maple St., Nashville, Tenn. 
 
 Owens, L. J., 129 E. 4th St., Waterloo^ Iowa. 
 
 Paine, L. K., Hyannis, Mass. 
 
 Palmer, E. R., Wycombe, Ont., Can. 
 
 Palmer, J. W., Dudley, Pa. 
 
 Palmer, jr., Jamel, Rochester, N. Y. 
 
 Palmer, S. G., Tobias, Neb. 
 
 Pangbom, H. L., Maquoketa, la. 
 
 Panman, P. K., Lloyds, Va. 
 
 Panton, E. W., Stratford, Ont., Can. 
 
 Papke, August, Beech Ridge, N. Y. 
 
 Parcells, J. W., Box 140, Kirkville, Mo. 
 
 Pardee, C. A., Goleburg, Ky. Miller. 
 
 Park, I. W., Columbia, Texas. 
 
 Parker, C. A., Cambria, N. Y. 
 
 Parker, E. L., Coldbrook Springs, Mass. 
 
 Parker, R. W., Beaver Dam, Ohio. 
 
 Parker, W. H., Newcastle, Ala. Simplicity hives. 
 
 Parrish, C. L., Bridport, Vt. 
 
 Patterson, J. B., Short Creek, Ey. Bees and supplies. 
 
 Pattison, Rpbfert, Holmesburg, Pa. 
 
 Patton, Amer, Sterling, N. Y. 
 
 Paulus, E. C, Stone Creek, Ohio. 
 
 Payne, George W., Box 135, Bentonville, Aric. 
 
 Pearse, C. J., Port Perry, Ont., Can. 
 
 Peeler, W. J., Blandford, Mass. 
 
 Peine, Paul, Martinsburg, W. Va. 
 
52 THK beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Penn, George W., Colfax, la. 
 Penney, Wilbur, Freedom, Me. 
 •Penton, Chas., East Aiirora, N. Y. Dealer in sections and 
 
 foundation. 
 Percy, C. C, korth Hoosick, N. Y. \ 
 
 Perkins, C. S., Essex, Mass. 
 Perry, Fred. C, Centreville, Mass. 
 Pert, R. H., South Kent, Conn. 
 Peters, Albert, Shelby, la. 
 Peterson, H. C, Greenleaf, Kans. 
 Petine, N. C, Cherry Valley, Ohio. 
 Pettis, Charles E., Garland, Pa. 
 Peyton, John R., Haddonsville, N. J. 
 Pflawn, Mrs. C. H., Dinsmore, Pa. 
 Phelps, J. M., Chesterfield, 111. 
 Phillips, A., Thayer, Kans. 
 Phillips, John, Hudson, Mass. 
 PhiUips, Kate V., Natural Bridge, N. Y. 
 Phillips, R. D., West Lenox, Pa. 
 PKillips, Thomas, Jordan, N. Y. 
 Phipps, A. Lee, Westboro, Mass. / 
 Phipps, J. M., Hillard, Wyoming Terr. 
 Pickup, Edmund, Limerick, 111. 
 Pierce, Elisha, Waverly, Mass. 
 Pierce, G. B,., Blairstown, Iowa. Hive jacket for winter 
 
 and spring. 
 Pierson, J. W., Union Springs, N. Y. 
 Pike, James M., Rensselaer Falls, N. Y. 
 Pike, Jopathan, Livermore Falls, Me. 
 Piatt, Thomas, Whitesburg, Pa. i 
 
 Plum, Matthias, Newark, N. J. 
 Plumb, E. L., Windsor, Conn. 
 Plummer, C. W., Winchendon, Mass. 
 Pomeroy, Leon, Vergennes, Vt. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 53 
 
 Poore, F. W., No. i Mill St., Haverhill, Mass. 
 
 Porrier, O., 314 Common St., Lawrence, Mass. 
 
 Porter, A. L., Chittenango, N. Y. 
 
 Porter, George H., South Barre, Vt. 
 
 Porter, Rufus, Lewiston, 111. 
 
 Potter, A. E., 91 MesserSt., Providence, R. I. 
 
 Potter, George, Ionia, Iowa. 
 
 Potter, jr., H. A., Providence, R. I. 
 
 Potts, F. M., Media, Pa. 
 
 Powel, R. D., Jerseyville, 111. 
 
 Pratt, S. Ii., 175 Main St., Marlboro, Mass. Hives, seo- 
 
 tions, smokers, etc. 
 Pratt, Luther, Bancroft, Mich. 
 Pratt, W. S., Blythe, Miss. 
 Prescott, J. O., Box 166, Lexington, Mass. 
 Prindall, H. L., Middleton Springs, Vt. 
 Prindle, A. J., Prospect, N. Y. 
 Prindle, Chas., Gloucester, Mass. 
 Proper, Mrs. A. F., Portland, Ind. 
 Proxmeyar, Louis, Mt. Union, Pa. 
 
 Pugsley, C. I., Box 62, Denver, Mo. Agent for Dr. Pal- 
 Ion's medicines. 
 Purcell, E. J., Clachan, Ont., Can. 
 Purrington, D. G., Brunswick, Maine. 
 Putt, A. H., Canal Dover, Ohio. 
 Pyle, J. T., Abilene, Kan. 
 Pyke, H. W., Gum Tree, Pa. 
 Pyrtte, A. S., Lesterville, Mo. 
 
 Raabe, A., Ellington, Texas. 
 Raebel, H. J., West Granville, Wis. 
 Rainer, W. C, Logansville, Pa. 
 Raker, G. W., Trenton, Pa. 
 Ran, Samuel, Columbian, Ohio. 
 
54 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Ray, D. L., Windsor, Vt. 
 
 Ray, J. W., Box 453, Xenia, Ohio. 
 
 Ream, C. W., Academy, Ind. 
 
 Redfield, E. B., Hamburg, N. Y. 
 
 Reed, Herman, Abscota, Mich. 
 
 Reed, James R., Milford, Wis. 
 
 Reed, Thomas, Box 395, Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 
 Reed, W. R., Milton, Mass. 
 
 Reese, Jno. S., Winchester, Ky. 
 
 Reichert, Ches., Thiensville, Wis. 
 
 Renne, Wm., Beaverton, 111. 
 
 Rennent, Gustave, W. Richfield, Ohio. 
 
 Reppert, Ferdinand, Muscatine, Iowa. 
 
 Revel, Wm., Middle Lancaster, Pa. 
 
 Reynolds, C, Fremont, Ohio. 
 
 Reynolds, I. N., Runnels, Iowa. 
 
 Beynolds, J. P., Hydetown, Fa. Hives and general sup- 
 plies. 
 
 Reynolds, R. M., East Springfield, Ohio. 
 
 Reynolds, T. B., Box 356, Dayton, Ohio. 
 
 Reynolds, Thos. H., Verde, Minn. 
 
 Rhodes, P. F., New Casde, Ind. 
 
 Rhynuss, C. W., Sharon, Conn. 
 
 Rice, A, Elma, N. Y. 
 
 Rice, B. J., West Fallbr'ook, Gal. 
 
 Rice, Francis, Hubbardston, Mass. 
 
 Rice, O. G., Filzwilliams, N. H. Farmer. 
 
 Rich, Arnold, East Killingly, Conn. 
 
 Richards, W. J., Weymouth, Mass. 
 
 Richardson, Charles B., HoUis, N. H. 
 
 Richardson, E. B., Hollis, N. H. 
 
 Richardson, E. E., Middlebury, Conn. 
 
 Richardson, H., DeTvitt, Web. Hives, smokers, veils and 
 foimdation. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 55 
 
 Richardson, Henry, Dewitt, Neb. 
 
 Riechert, C, Thiensville, Wis. 
 
 Ripley. W. H., West Quincy, Mass. 
 
 Robbins, Daniel E., Box 340, Payson, 111. 
 
 Roberts, Alfred, West Concord, N. H. 
 
 Roberts, J. B., Box 216, Farmington, N. H. 
 
 Robertson, J. H., Pewamo, Mich. 
 
 Robinson, A. M., 335 Pleasant St., Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Robinson, C. J., Richford, N. Y. 
 
 Robinson, G. E., 24 F. H. M., Boston, Mass. 
 
 Robinson, L. D., Forkston, Pa. 
 
 Robinson, Will B., Upper Jay, N. Y. 
 
 Robinson, W. J., Vicksburg, Mich. 
 
 Boe, J. A., Union City, Ind. Deals in bee-supplies, all 
 kinds. 
 
 Roe, Rev. J. A., Buchanan, Mich. 
 
 Rogers, H. J., Stannard's Corners, N. Y. 
 
 Rogers, Josiah, Syracuse, Neb. 
 
 Rogers, Levi, Oneida Valley, N. Y. 
 
 Rogerson, Francis, Churchville, Ont. 
 
 Rood, E. H., Whites Valley, Pa. 
 
 Boot, A. I., Oiedina, Ohio. Publisher and editor of "Glean- 
 ings in Bee-Culture " a semi-monthly periodical de- 
 voted to the interests of beekeepers. $1.00 per annum. 
 
 Root, O. P., Auburn, Neb. 
 
 Ropes, C. F., Box 283, Salem, Mass. 
 
 Bose, C' L., Durham Centre, Conn. Hives, sections. 
 
 Rose, J. A., Friend, Neb. 
 
 Rose, Robert, Glenmorris, Ont., Can. 
 
 Rothe, C. F., Charter Oak, Iowa. 
 
 Rouse, Henry L., Ionia, Iowa. 
 
 Rowe, R. B., Hesperia, Mich. 
 
 Bowe, W. J. Greensburg, Pa. Deals in queens. 
 
 Rowles, E., Grant City, Pa. 
 
 Royall, J. P., Columbia, Mo. 
 
^6 THK beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Royse, E. B., West Haven, Conn. 
 
 Ruch, Jacob, Mt. Eaton, Ohio. 
 
 Rumery, R. W., Biddeford, Maine. , 
 
 :Rundell, Geo., Beach Ridge, N. Y. 
 
 Rupert, John H., Woodcock, Pa. 
 
 Ruse, F. M., New Hartford, 111., 
 
 Russell, Esau, Ida Grove, Iowa. 
 
 Russell, Mrs. E. A., Ord, Neb. 
 
 Russell, J. J., Bradford, Pa. 
 
 Russell, jas. A., Corning, Iowa. 
 
 Russell, L. J., Lapeer, Mich. 
 
 Russell, S. A., M. D., Newmarket, Ont., Can. 
 
 Russell, W. H., Burnet, Texas. 
 
 Rust, J. L. & Co., New Carlisle, Pa. i , 
 
 Ryan, R. R., Bradshaw, Neb. 
 
 Saddlemire, Rev. Ira, Gallufiville, N. Y. 
 
 Sagar, Seth, Grafton, Wis. Woolsorter. 
 
 Sage & Son, F. I., Weathersfield, Conn. 
 
 Sage, Hollister, Springfield, Mass. 
 
 Salisbury, F. A., Box 44, Syracuse, N. Y. 
 
 Sampson, A. D., Winthrop, la. 
 
 Sami)son, A. W., Churchville, N. Y. 
 
 Sanborn, A. A., Westfield, Mass. 
 
 Sanborn, Jacob B., East Tilton, If. H. Parmer and car- 
 penter. 
 
 Sanford, T. S., New Castle, Pa. Sanford's reversible 
 hive. 
 
 Sanderson, C. S., San Luis Rey, Cal. 
 
 Sanderson, E. I., West Townsend, Vt. 
 
 Sands, C. B., Pottsville, Pa. 
 
 Sangster, William, Huntingdon, Que., Can. 
 
 Sappington, J. Will, Ashland, Mo. 
 
 Saum, Wm. A., Alexanderville, Ohio. 
 
p 
 
 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 57 
 
 TRY PURE-BRED ITALIAN QUEENS, 
 
 IROM the NORTH STAR APIARY. Twenty-Five Years experience. 
 Raised from Home-Bred and Imported Mothers. 
 
 I Virgin Queen, .50 I i Tested Queen, ;^2.oo 
 
 I Untested Queen, jSi.oo | i Selected and Tested, 3.00 
 
 Address, J. W. THOMPSON, Lester, Rice County, Minn. 
 
 THE CANADIAN BEE JOURNAL, 
 
 B^IRST S WIUKKLY IN" THE! S/V^OHUD ! 
 
 Jnst now we wish to increase onr subscription list by doubling it, hence 
 we MAKE A SPECIAL OFFER. For every yearly aubseription received, we 
 will SEND FREE, by return mail, books relating to Bee-Keeping, to tlie value 
 of $1.00. They are as follows : " Queens and How to Introduce Them ;" "Bee- 
 Houses and How to Build Them;" ■Wintering and Preparations Therefor;" 
 "Bee-Keepers' Dictionary;" "Foul Brood, its Cause and Cure," and Rev. W. F. 
 Clarke's "Birds-Eye View of Bee-Keeping." Samples of the C. B. J. free. 
 
 Commencing with issue of Nov. 14, No. 34, Vol. IV, are a series of articles 
 on "Practical Bee-Keeping," by D. A. Jones, with exhaustive reviews, by Mr. 
 Allen Pringle. These will run to the end of volume V^, in all probability. 
 
 Tsrcrw IS the xime to subsoribk. 
 
 * ^ 
 
 American currency or stamps, also postal notes and money orders taken at 
 par. 
 
 THE D. A. JONES CO., Ltd., 
 
 Beeton, Ont., Canada. 
 
 THE AMERICAN APICULTUEI8T. 
 
 (ESTABLISHED IN 1883.) 
 
 DEVOTED TO SUCCESSFUL APICULTURE. 
 
 KXHTEJD BY 
 
 A SEEEEEFER OP THIRTY YEA&S EiKFESIENCE. 
 
 SAMPLE COPIES FBEE. 
 
 Address The Ameeicait ApiCUltukist. 
 
 Essex County. WBNHAM, MASS. 
 
 8 
 
58 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Saunders, H. P., Lawrence, Kans. Market gardener. 
 Savage, D. P., Hopskinsville, Ky. Bees, queens, hives, etc. 
 Savery, C. T., Taunton, Mass. ^ 
 
 Savfin, F. L., 64 Grove St., Fitchburg, Mass. 
 Sawyer, Harry, 1301 So. Main St., Burlington, Iowa. 
 Sawyer, W. F., Harvard, Mass. 
 Sayman, G. M., Box 902, Piqua, Ohio. 
 Scenter, E. M., Center Lyle, N. Y.' 
 Schaeffer, J. W., Port Angeles, Wash. Terr. 
 Schanks, L., Scotch Ridge, Ohio. 
 
 Schell, Geo. D., Barron Lake, Mieli. Sections and foun- 
 dation. 
 Schenck, S., Beach Ridge, N. Y. 
 Schemelbzer, C. K., SchoU's Ferry, Oregon. 
 Schmidt, E. C, Verona, N. J. 
 Schmidt, Edward, Botkins, Ohio. 
 Schmidt, F., Millington, N. J. 
 Schmidt, F. A., Clinton, N. Y. 
 Scholls, Chas., Rochester, N. Y. 
 Schrader, A. T., Newtown, N. Y. 
 Schumans, Jacob, Laporte, Ind. 
 Scott, B. D., Ovid Centre, N. Y. 
 Scott, G. B., 16 Broad St., Room 72, New York, N. Y. 
 Scott, H. C, Gibson, Pa. 
 Scott, J. A., Box 243, Hamilton, Ohio. 
 Scoven, J. S., Kokomo, Ind. 
 Sears, Peter, Barnqsville, Ohio. 
 Seaveny, Herbert, Box 63, Auburndale, Mass. 
 Seawell, F. E., Uvalde, Tex. 
 
 Seely, H. M., Harford, Pa. Hfves, sections and brood- 
 frames. 
 
 Seely, Wm. J., Amherst, Mass. 
 
 S^gar, Seth, Grafton, Wis. 
 
 Seitz, William, Hqstisford, Wis, 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 59 
 
 Sellers, A. D., Jefferson City, Mo. 
 
 Sqnor, Chas., Richland Centre, Pa. 
 
 Sessions, N. G., North Woodstock, Maine. 
 
 Sexton, J. L., Elkhart, Wis. 
 
 Shank, Jr., John, Box 21, No. Springfield, Mo. 
 
 Sharpe, Walter, Sobo, Ont., Can. 
 
 Shattuck, E. W., Springfield, Mass. 
 
 Shattuck, Samuel, Wendell Depot, Mass. 
 
 Shaver, Jos. E., North River, Va. 
 
 Shaver, Jos. E., Friedens, Pa. 
 
 Shearman, J. T., New Richmond, Mich. 
 
 Sheldon, Rev. L. H., Andover, Mass. 
 
 Shely, jas. N., Nicholasville, Ky. 
 
 Sheneman, E. M., Pharisburgh, Ohio. 
 
 Sherman, Elbridge, Mansfield, Mass. 
 
 Sherman, Mrs. S. 1!., Salado, Texas. Beekeeping and 
 
 poultry raising. 
 Sherman, Walter, Newport, R. I. 
 Sherwood, B. F., Central Station, W. Va. 
 Shilling, Frank, Jewett, Ohio. 1 
 
 Shoemaker, J. N,, Chambersburg, Pa. 
 Shoup, Geo., Hubbell, Neb. 
 Shrekegorst, Clark, Putneysville, Pa. 
 Shriner, J. T., Waynesburgh, Pa. 
 Shropskin, Thos. A., M. D., Clintonville, Ky. 
 Shutz, J. H. J., St. Louis, Mo. 
 Sibley, Frank, Westboro, Mass. 
 Sidgwick, W. H., Grantville, Ohio. 
 Simmons, J. H., Pendergrass, Ga. 
 Simmons, J. P., Forest Lake, Mo. 
 Simmonton, W. S., Cameron, W. Va. 
 Simons, R., Howard, Kans. 
 Simpkinson, Miss Mary, Killbuck, Ohio, 
 Simpson, Ed. C, Richburg, S. C. 
 
6o THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Simpson, J. L., Tonganoxie, Kans. 
 Simpson, Louisa, Lidcote, Ont., Can. 
 
 Simpson, M., Levita, Texas. Deals in bee-supplies gener- 
 ally. 
 
 Skinner, Alonzo, Zenos, Arizona. 
 
 Skinner, R. T., Abbott^, Iowa. 
 
 Slack, A. A., Lawrence, N. J. 
 
 Slack, Thos., Waterloo, P. Q., Can. 
 
 Slaughter, Rev. E. B., Down's Chapel, Del. 
 
 Slocum, C. M., Easton, N. Y. 
 
 Singerland, E. E., Troy, Pa. Simplicity hives, etci 
 
 Smailes, G. F., New Moscow, Ohio. 
 
 Smedley, C. O., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 
 Smith, A. F., Plaquemine, Iberville Parish, La. 
 
 Smith, Arthur F., Salem, Mass. 
 
 Smith, C. H., Pittsfield, Mass. 
 
 Smith, C. R., Wakatomica, Ohio. 
 
 Smith, C. W., Wellesley Hills, Mass. 
 
 Smith, D. H., Roxie, W. Va. 
 
 Smith, E. C, GlenviUe, N. Y. 
 
 Smith, P. L., Chittenango, W. T. Smokers, foundation 
 
 and hives. 
 Smith, G. E., Kingston, N. Y. 
 Smith, J. P., Sunapee, N. H. 
 Smith, Josiah, Upland, Del. 
 Smith, L. J., Montreal, Can. 
 Smith, M. A., Anniston, Ala. 
 Smith, Norbert, Damascus, 111. 
 Smith, Peter L., Castile, N. Y. 
 Smith, S. P., Union Grove, 111. 
 Smith, Wm. I., Hillegass, Pa. 
 Smith, Wm. M., Mainesburg, Pa. 
 Smith, W. T., La Porte, Ind. 
 Smith & Templet, Plaquemine, Iberville Parish, La. 
 Snaveley, W. W., Bellwood, Neb. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 6 1 
 
 Snell, F. A., MilledgeviUe, 111. 
 Snow, C. W., Rodman, N. Y. 
 Snow, S. E., Kingsville, Ohio. 
 Snyder, W. B., Shelby, O. 
 Somerford, W. W., Navasoto, Texas. 
 Southwick, H. J., New Decatur, Ala. 
 Sparlins, J. W., Bowmansville, Ont., Can. 
 Spaulding, G. H., Augusta, Maine. 
 Spaulding, Will, Hoytville, Mich. 
 Speer, Teresa, Clio, Iowa. 
 Spencer, Geo. W., Plainville, Conn. 
 
 Spencer, M.Ii., Little Genesee, II'. Y. Deals in bee sup- 
 plies. 
 Spencer, O., Montrose, Colorado. 
 Sperry, Lewis, 345 Main St., Pa. 
 Sperry, Mexico, La Harpe, 111. 
 Spitler, Geo., Mosierstown, Pa. 
 Sprague, C. H., Providence, R. I. 
 Springer, David S., Berne, Indiana. 
 Squire, D. E., Monson, Mass. 
 Stachelhausen, L., Selma, Texas. 
 Stacy, Wm. H., Mifflin, Minn. 
 Stacy, W. M., Edgar, Neb,. 
 Stalcup, J. G., Park, Ind. 
 Staley, H. K., Pleasant Ridge, Ohio. 
 Staples, L. D., Portland, Mich. 
 St. Clair, J. W., 156 Market St., Lynn, Mass. 
 Stead, G. B., Putnam, Conn. 
 Steader, S. B., Bismark, 111. 
 Steams, H. A., 341 Fort St., W. Detroit, Mich. 
 Stedman, Oliver, Wakefield, R. I. 
 Steel, J. N., Hutchinson's, K. C. R. R., Ky. 
 Stenger, J. J., Fort Madison, Iowa, 
 Stephens, J. O., Lancaster, N. H. 
 
62 THK beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Stephens, Wm. B., Stephenson's Mills, N. Y. 
 
 Sterling, W. B., Eoiindeau, Out., Can. Supplies of all 
 kinds. 
 
 Stern, J. M., Frankenmuth, Mich. 
 
 Stevens, M., Pennellville, N. Y. 
 
 Stevens, R. M., Pocomoke City, Maryland. Architect. 
 
 Stewart, Chas., Sammonsville, N. Y. 
 
 Stewart, J. C, Hopkins, Mo. 
 
 Stewart, John, Independence, Pa. 
 
 Stewart, Leslie, Jefferson, N. Y. 
 
 Stewart, W. B., Vienna, Ohio. 
 
 Stewart, W. H. H., Gait, 111. 
 
 Stickney, G. W., Beverly, Mass. 
 
 Stillman, Edwin A., Canadice, N. Y. 
 
 Stinger, Grant, Culbertson, Nebraska. 
 
 St. John, H. P., Greenwich Sta., Ohio. 
 
 Stockman, S. H., East Auburn, Maine. Bealer in bee- 
 supplies. 
 
 Stockwell, Geo. A., Providence, R. I. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 
 Stoler, D. M., Saxon, Pa. 
 
 StoUard, F. M. L., Tarlton, Ohio. 
 
 Stonaker, D. V., Old Bridge, New Jersey. 
 
 Stone, L. J., Littleton Common, Mass. 
 
 Storer, Edward M., Hawks Park, Fla. 
 
 Storrs, C. H., Lebanon, N. H. 
 
 Stover, P. E., Waldoboro, Maine. 
 
 Stradley, G., Fillmore, Ga. 
 
 Stranahan, A. J., Romeo, Mich. 
 
 Stratton, Rufus, Hazardville, Conn. 
 
 Straw, A. S., Edwardsburg, Mich. Deals in foundation 
 
 and sections. 
 Strickland, T. B., Pleasant Light, Ala. 
 Strickler, Morris W., 131 N. Duke St., York, Pa. 
 Stringham, I. J., 120 E. 87th St., New York, N. Y. 
 Stroberg, J. F., Macon, Ga. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 63 
 
 Strofield, August, Martinsville, N. Y. 
 
 Strogden, O. E., Ambler, Pa. 
 
 Strong, C. B., Tidioute, Pa. 
 
 Stroup, W. S., Sweet Home, Irid. 
 
 Stump, Rev. G. E., Newell, Iowa. 
 
 Suffelt, H. W., Norwood, Mass. 
 
 Sullivan, Samuel, 1145 Lane St., Hamilton, Ohio. 
 
 Summerfield, 22 Lorain St., Toledo, Ohio. 
 
 Summers, S. N., Wartburg, Tenn. 
 
 Sunday, P., Goodels, Mich. Queens, hives, sections, etc. 
 
 Surles & Son, Worcester, Mass. 
 
 Suter, William, Welcome, Minn. 
 
 Sutter, Jos., Layton Corners, Mich. 
 
 Styer, E. R., Organtown, Pa. 
 
 Swain, A. M., Tyngsboro, Mass. 
 
 Swan, H. S., White Cloud, Mich. 
 
 Swarty, W., Ahnapee, Wis. 
 
 Sweetland, E., Dryden, N. Y. 
 
 Swick, B. F., Salem, Oregon. 
 
 Swinson, A. L., Goldsboro, N. C. 
 
 Taff, Fred N., Millington, N. J. , 
 Talcott, H. Pi, Room 13 2015 ist Ave., Birmingham, Ala. 
 Tallcott, T. H. L., Glastonbury, Conn. 
 Talmage, W. P., Milton Centre, Ohio. 
 Taylor, J. H., Mohawk, N. Y. 
 
 Taylor, J. N., Greely, Iowa. Carriage maker and carpen- 
 ter. ' 
 Taylor, J. W., Ozan, Ark. 
 Taylor, S. W., Harveyville, Pa. 
 Taylor, W. W., Down's Chapel, Del. 
 Teague, Geo. H., Wakefield, Mass. 
 Tefft, J. W., CoUamer, N. Y. 
 Terry, J. T., San Mateo, Cal. 
 
64 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Tewell,' John, Arborville, Neb. 
 Tewinkle, G. P., Ctymer, N. Y. 
 
 Theberath, Chas. H., Cor. Clinton & 5th Aves., Newark, N. J. 
 Thomas, A. B., 41 Kimble St., Utica, N. Y. 
 Thomas, A. G., Vassalboro, Maine. 
 Thomas, C. F. Dorchester, Neb. 
 Thomas, G. W., Wakefield, Mass. 
 Jhomas, Noah, Horatio, Ohio. 
 
 Thompson, B. A., Maiden, Mass. Contractor and builder. 
 Thompson, G. M., Grand Junction, Iowa. 
 Thompson,' H. S., 215 So. Main St., Elmira, N. Y. 
 Thompson, J. B., Centerville Sta., N. Y. 
 Thompson, J. W., Lester, Minn. Dealer in Italian queens. 
 Thompson, Mace, Curwensville, Pa. 
 Thorn, Eugene, Chelsea, Vt. ' 
 
 Tibbetts, G. D. W., Berwick, Maine. 
 Tibbetts, Mrs. Oliver, So. New Market Junction, N. H. 
 Tiffany, T. J., Kingsley, Pa. 
 Timboth, Alexander, Huntingdon, Pa. 
 Timpe, Jacob T., Grand Ledge, Mich. 
 Tinker, C. O., Ashtabula, Ohio. 
 ' Todd, J. E., Unadilla, N. Y. 
 Todd, Robt., Whitehall, 111. 
 Topping, Henry, Springfield, Ont., Can. 
 Torlin, O. L., Smith's Landing, Ohio. 
 Tower, Almon, 307 N. 24th St., Lincoln, Neb. 
 Tower, W. J., 82 Adams St., Rochester, N. Y. 
 Towne, Frank H., Montpelier, Vt. 
 Towns, Isaiah, Primrose, Ohio. 
 Tracy, T., Nashua, Iowa. 
 Tracy, Wm. J., Burrillville, R. I. 
 Tripp, J. H., Kibbie, Mich. . ' 
 Tripp, M. v., Dorchester, Mass. 
 True, J. A., Fostoria, Ohio. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 65 
 
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 ESTABLISHED IN 1861. 
 
 dr. 
 
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 Devoted Exclusively to Bee Culture, 
 
 Is the Becognized Leading Bee-Periodical in America. 
 
 ONE DOLLAR A YEAR, IN ADVANCE. 
 
 A Sample Copy Free, Upon Ap2>Hcation. 
 
 The most successful and expiiienced beekeepers in the woild 
 comprise its corps of contributors, juid it is continually advancing 
 progressive ideas u|jou the various topics of modern scientific 
 bee culture. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY 
 
 THOS. G. N^mmiAm & som^ 
 
 923 & 925 West Madison St., Ohioago, 111. 
 
 JOBBERS AND DEALERS IN 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 HII-VES, SIBCTIOIsrS, 
 Honey and Wax Extractors, Comb Foundations, 
 
 KE0S, PAILS, SEEDS, &e. 
 
 Illustrated Catalogue sent free upon application. 
 9 
 
66 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Trueblood, Francis, Archer, Fla. 
 
 Truxworth, Wm., Reed City, Mich. 
 
 Tucker, J. D., Collinsburg, La. 
 
 Turner, Albert, Willimantic, Conn. 
 
 Turner, G. H., Bristol, Conn. 
 
 Turner Brothers, Lincoln, Vt. Beekeepers' supplies. 
 
 Tuttle, A. L., So. Edmeston, N. Y. 
 
 Tuttle, W. W., Effingham, N. H. 
 
 Twining, Dana, Frankfort Station, 111. 
 
 Twining, W. A., Pineville, Pa. ' 
 
 Tyler, J. M., Box 30, Bowling, Ky. 
 
 Tyrrell, C M., Pittston, Pa> 
 
 Tyzzer, G. R., Wakefield. Mass. 
 
 VandrufiF, W. S., Waynesburg, Pa. Natural principle bee- 
 hive. 
 
 Van Osgood, C. L., M.D., Allensville, Ind. 
 
 Viar, J. W., Floyd, Va. 
 
 Vineyard, J. W. , Cornwallis, Oregon. Farmer and stock 
 raiser. 
 
 Vrets, A. G., Box 225, Holton, Mich. 
 
 Waddell, Alex., Claremont, Ont., Can. 
 Waddell, Wm., Nilestown, Ont., Can. 
 Wadman, J. H., Riverside, N. J. 
 Waggoner, I. R., Grantville, Kans. 
 Wagner, Jacob, Amana, la. 
 Wagner, L. M., Dayton, Mo. 
 Wagner, M., Waconia, Minn. 
 Wait, John H., Novi, Mich. 
 Waite, O. E., Springfield, Vt. 
 Waldridge, Bion, Stony Fork, Pa. 
 Walker, H. W., Box 142, Somerset, Pa. 
 Wallace, C. A., Merrimac, Mass. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECl'ORY. > 6^ 
 
 Wallace, J. V., Gretna, Neb. 
 
 Wallace, Jonathan, Sevkr, Kans. 
 
 Waller, J. J., Pleasant Ridge Park, Ky. 
 
 Ward, Wm. A., Brunswick, Me. 
 
 Ward, Wm. S., Fullers Station, N. Y. 
 
 Wardwell, Fannie E., Box 395, Stamford, Conn. 
 
 Ware, F. H., E. Harrisonville, W. H. Sections and foun- 
 dations. 
 
 Waring, Frank, Phillipsburg, Pa. 
 
 Warner, E., Milford, Pa. 
 
 Warner, N. S., Box 57, Dysart, la. 
 
 Warner, Wm. H., Box 337, Albany, Ore. 
 
 Warren, Alden, Groton, Mass. 
 
 Warren, Thos. J., Magnolia, N. J. . 
 
 Waterhouse, Chas., Bayou Chene, La. 
 
 Waterman Brothers, Chester Depot, Vt. Hives, sections, 
 hives, etc. 
 
 Waters, H. N., LowviUe, N. Y. 
 
 Waters, J. F., Horse Head, Md. 
 
 Watkins, Arley, Brock, Neb. 
 
 Watson, A. T., Plainfield, Mich. 
 
 Watts, F. R., Box 91, Lawrenceville, 111. 
 
 Webster, Charles, West Winsted, Conn. . 
 
 Webster, Delia, Norwich Corners, N. Y. 
 
 Webster, H., M.D., Byron, Mich. 
 
 Webster, Miles, Fishers, N. Y. 
 
 Webster, W. A., Bakersfield, Cal. 
 
 Weed, Eddie, Charter Oak, la. 
 
 Weed, J. R., Orange, N. J. 
 
 Weeks, G. A., Hartwick, N. Y. 
 
 Weigel, George, Le Roy, N. Y. 
 
 Weir, J. C, Cochranton, Pa. Hives, frames, sections, 
 etc. 
 
 Weiss, Ermil, Topton, Pa. ' 
 
 Wells, H. L., Defiance, Ohio. 
 
68 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 Welsh, jr., James R., Derrick City, Pa. 
 Wentworth, L. W., Searsport, Me. 
 
 West, D. J., Smithfield, Pa. 
 
 Westcott, E. L., Fair Haven, Vt. 
 
 Weston, Elijah, Osceola Mills, Pa. 
 
 Wheatley, T. H., East Brookfield, Vt. 
 
 Whedon, John N., Rupert, Vt. 
 
 Wheeler, E. E., New London, Conn. 
 
 Wheeler, G. T., Mexico, N. Y. Hives, sections, smokers, 
 etc. 
 
 Whetsel, Samuel, Avilla, Ind. 
 
 Whitcher, R. H., Patton, Ind. 
 
 Whitcomb, N. E., West Acton, Mass. 
 
 Whitcomb, Orrin, Argyle, N. Y. Custom boots and 
 shoes. 
 
 White, E. 'H., Saxton, Pa. 
 
 White, G. H., Deerfield, la. 
 
 White, J. J., Lake Worth, Fla. 
 
 White, Jesse, Perry, la. 
 
 White, S. S., Rock Ledge, Fla. 
 
 White, W. B., Chestertown, N. Y. 
 
 White, W. R., Concord Church, W. Va. 
 
 Whitford, G. M., Arlington, Neb. 
 
 Whitmore, W. R,, Moscow, N. Y. 
 
 Whitney, F. A., Leominster, Mass. 
 
 Whitney, S. F., Watertown, IVIass. 
 
 Wilbur, R. M , New Milford, Conn. Hives, sections and 
 foundation. 
 
 Wilcox, David, Orford, N. H. 
 
 Wilcox, J. W., Scales Mound, 111. Foundation, sec- 
 tions, etc. 
 
 Wiley, Sarah E., 77 Montgomery St., Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 
 
 Wilkins, O. F., International Bridge, Ont., Can. 
 
 Williams, Mrs. M. G., 28 Highland Park Ave., Roxbuiy, Mass. 
 
 Williams, Mrs. J., East Douglass, Mass. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. I 69 
 
 Williams, J. D., South America, 111. 
 
 Williams, J. G., Holland Patent, N. Y. 
 
 Williams, Jeff., Tustin City, Cal. 
 
 Williams, Peter, Cpwan, Tenn. 
 
 Williamson, Joseph, Earlham, Iowa. 
 
 Willis, J. L. M., Eliot, Maine. 
 
 Wilms, F. J., San Jafflnto, Cal. 
 
 Wilsey, M. J., Dewey, Kans. 
 
 Wilson, A. D. M., Plymouth, Iowa. 
 
 Wilson, A. Jennie, Macedon, N. Y. 
 
 Wilson, J. A., So. Middleton, Ont., Can. 
 
 Wilson, O. J.. 604 2ist St., Moline, 111. 
 
 Wilson, T. M., Shelocta, Pa. 
 
 Wing, C. H., Marion, N. C. 
 
 Winslow, H. S., Randolph, Maine. 
 
 Winter, O. F., Winterton, N. Y. 
 
 Wirt, Geo. W., Oronoco, Neb. 
 
 Wirth, Wm., Newport, Vt. 
 
 Wiseman, Nauson, Woodstock, Va. 
 
 Witcomb, O. M. East Coy, N. Y. 
 
 Witkipp, J. T., St. Johnsburg, N. Y. 
 
 Witschey, John, Fairview, Kan. 
 
 Wixom, A. R., Box 82, Farmington, Mich. 
 
 Wolcott, Mrs. F. A., Shoreham, Vt. 
 
 Wolf, Jacob, Lathrop, Cal. 
 
 Wolf, L. E., Mercersburg, Pa. 
 
 Wolf, J., Xiathrop, Cal. Deals some in queen bees. 
 
 Womelsdorf, D. W., Huntington, Pa. 
 
 Wonson, A. K., East Gloucester, Mass. 
 
 Wood, D. E., Greenlawn, N. Y. 
 
 Wood, R. G., East Lake, Ala. 
 
 Woodbury, D. B., Paris, Maine. Originating florist. 
 
 Woodbury, J. L., Canaan, Maine. 
 
 Woodman, G. T., South Braintree, Mass. 
 
70 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 Woodward, W. M., Cust,er Park, 111. 
 Woodward, R. B., M. D., Somerset, Ohio. 
 Woodworth, R. M., Box 868, La Salle, 111. 
 Wortman, A., Seafleld, Ind. Bee -hives, sections and smok- 
 ers. 
 Wright, F. M., Etiosburg, Vt. 
 Wright, Rev. J. E. M., Berkley, Mass. 
 Wright, Jno., Grand Rapids, Mich. 
 Wycuff, Thos., Adel, Iowa. 
 Wyeth, Alonzo, Townsend Harbor, Mass. 
 
 Yeagley, F. B., New Somerset, Ohio. 
 Yetter, E., Veedersburg, Ind. 
 Yorks, W. K., Lima, N. Y. 
 YouU, James, Mapleton, Iowa. 
 
 Zink, W. T., Junction pity, Mo. Simplicity hives and fix- 
 tures. 
 Zwahlan, John, Castle Dale, Utah Terr. 
 
PRACTICAL HINTS REGARDING THE SUCCESSFUL 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE APIARY. 
 
 We promised the purchasers of this work certain essays upon 
 the subject of bee culture. In compliance with that promise the 
 rea4er will find the following pages devoted to matter of great 
 interest to those who keep bees. 
 
 We present no theory, but actual facts— all the result of long 
 experience and by those beekeepers who are well known to 
 every reader of this book. What they recommend and advise 
 will be accepted and generally practised. 
 
 One of the most important subjects connected with bee culture 
 is the wintej problem. How to winter bees and have each col- 
 ony strong in numbers at the commencement of the honey har- 
 vest is an art that but few beekeepers have acquired. Yet there are 
 those who winter their bees successfully year after year. Just how 
 it is done and the methods practised may be found in the essays 
 given on the following pages. 
 
 The first essay is by Dr. G. L. Tinker, of New Philadelphia, 
 Ohio, a beekeeper of long experience and an authority upon 
 any question connected with apiculture. 
 
 The Winter Problem or How to Winter Bees. 
 
 With the knowledge of this subject gained within the last five 
 years, there should be no difficulty in wintering bees. It is true 
 there is still diffeience of opinion on minor points but the prin- 
 cipal requirements on which success depends I believe are now 
 quite generally agreed upon. The first of these is protection 
 which involves the question of temperature. The writer is known 
 to most beekeepers as the champion of the doctrine that cold is 
 the primary cause of most of our winter losses as against that 
 most fallacious of all the theories that have been set forth of first 
 cause, viz., the pollen theory. But I am pleased to-day to re- 
 cord that my position on this question has been almost unani- 
 mously conceded. Protection from cold is now regarded as 
 
 (70 
 
-J 2 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 one of the greatest safeguards against bee diarrhoea and not the 
 removal cff bee-bread from the combs. ' 
 
 Next after the protection stands the question of food. I haVe 
 maintained and still hold that good natural stores are first in val- 
 ue and reliability. , Sugar syrup- has been tried with success in 
 many instances, but the fact remains that few bees comparatively 
 have been wintered upon sugar stores. And in these few cases 
 when put to the test of severe cold there have been many heavy 
 losses. Hence I can but think that bees winter best on the food 
 that nature has provided for them. 
 
 However, I beUeve sugar syrup infinitely preferable as a winter 
 food to the sweet excretions of aphides which bees sornetimes 
 gather and store in the combs. It is also no doubt preferable 
 to any inferior quahty of honey that may be stored in the fall. 
 
 Thin fall honey is especially deleterious and should be, either 
 extracted and good food substituted, or thick honey or syrup fed 
 over it. Thin honey may be known by its running out of the 
 combs when held horizontally. 
 
 Ventilation. 
 
 Bees require free ventilation in winter. They throw off a large 
 amount of moisture in their breath that must have a ready means 
 of exit from the hive or the bees will become restless, — a never^ 
 failipg indication of something wrong. All undue loss of heat ' 
 must be prevented and it can be easily retained by giving free 
 bottom ventilation and allowing no upward movement of air ex- 
 cept through wood or other very close pqrous covering. In my 
 experience the best and most economical covering is solid un- 
 painted wood. Simply place a thin board over the brood-cham- 
 ber so as to leave a bee-space over the frames in time to have it 
 well propolized and I will guarantee it to hold the heat to the 
 comfort of the bees and at the same time give an almost unob- 
 structed exit to all moisture, and that too, directly through the 
 board and the propolis. 1 
 
 I am prepared to say from ample experience that every kind of 
 upward ventilation through free openings or loose pofouS cover- 
 ings is pernicious, and liable to disaster ; for tlie life of a colony 
 of bees subjected to cold goes out with the loss of heat which is 
 forced strongly upward through free outlets by the pressure of 
 cold air coming in at the entrance. We can now see why bees 
 instinctively stop up all crevices with propolis. It is to prevent 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 73 
 
 the loss of heat which nature has taught them is life ; and had 
 beekeepers been as wise as the physiologist who said "heat is 
 life," we should have saved thousands upon thousands of colo- 
 nies lost in wintering, largely through the follies of upward ven- 
 tilation. It has been a dear lesson indeed Jhat has taught us 
 that our theories of absorbents have been all wrong. We now 
 know, if we can retain the heat, there is no difficulty about get- 
 ting out the moisture. The heat expels it as heat expels moist- 
 ure from a kiln of lumber even when sealed up as tight as it can 
 be made, and it is heat that causes evaporation of moisture and 
 dryness everywhere. 
 
 Where the temperature about the hives never goes below 40° or 
 54°, as in cellar wintering, we have a different state of things than 
 exists in out-door wintering. Even with very free bottom ven- 
 tilation if the hive is tight on top the bees may get too warm and 
 become restless. Hence it will be seen that bees must ,be ven- 
 tilated to suit their surroundings, the leading object being always 
 to keep them in winter confinement in as torpid a state as pos- 
 sible ; for we have learned that activity means waste of tissue, ex- 
 cessive consumption of food, loss of vitality and premature death. 
 Spring dwindling can be traced to no other source. The bees 
 are worn out with activity, with constant struggles, with adverse 
 conditions of their life. • Successful wintering means conservation 
 of vitality which is best accomplished through what is known as 
 
 Hibernation. ' 
 
 This state which bees begin to enter, upon the approach of 
 frosty nights in the fall^ is one which cannot ehcit too close atten- 
 tion by beekeepers ; for upon it hinge the greatest successes of the 
 future. It is simply a conservative state that the bee enters, en- 
 abling us to bring the bee of the fall to the bee of the spring with 
 ^U of its vitality and working capacity intact, and unchanged by 
 ithe intervening time. A bee's Ufe is only too short but its length 
 is measured by its activity ; hence, to span the long winter 
 months, it must have rest from its labors. Nature has provided 
 this rest in what we shall henceforth call hibernation. It is not of 
 course the profound hibernation of many other insects, nor does 
 anyone claim that. The bee becomes torpid, lethargic and re- 
 spires imperceptibly. There is considerable reduction of temper- 
 ature of the cluster that acisting in that state of activity to the 
 lowest point consistent with vital action,— a slight respiration and 
 
 10 
 
74 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 imperceptible movement. The reduction of temperature is about 
 , 20°, enough to justify those who are claiming true hibernation for 
 bees that they are indulging in no gibberish. It is a state, how- 
 ever, requiring food at intervals of from three to five days. I 
 only know that they have regular feeding times when the whole 
 colony becomes active and each bee seems to help itself to 
 honey. When all have feasted they settle into the torpid state 
 again. 
 
 A colony of bees properly hibernating will consume not more 
 than one pound of honey per month and this state continues if 
 all goes right, from the first of November to the first of Febru- 
 ary, when breeding commences. More heat is then required 
 and the bees are no longer in a perfectly listless state. The patch 
 of brood started will be, however, quite small, usually not over 
 four inches in diameter, so that no gfeat increase of temperature 
 is required. They start no more unless they have frequent 
 flights, until in March when extensive breeding begins and hi- 
 bernation ceases altogether. / 
 
 Hibernation is secured only at alow temperature. It commences 
 at a point below 50° and becomes more profound until we reach 
 41°. Going below that it gradually becomes less until below 32°. 
 Going below this point the bees become active and the labors, 
 destructive to their vitality and life, begin. Severe cold and cur- 
 rents of air interrupt hibernation and should be provided against 
 in order to the most successful wintering. Before bees are placed 
 in cellars, the cellars should be cooled to 41° by opening hatch- 
 ways or ventilators at night, and the temperature should be kept 
 down by the same means if inclined to rise. If the temperature 
 goes below 41°, I would advise raising it by the use of an anthra- 
 cite coal stove and keep it as near 41° as possible till the first, of 
 February. Then raise the temperature to 48° and keep it there 
 until the bees are set out. Two very serious mistakes are ofteii 
 made in placing bees in cellars : the first is in having the cellar 
 too warm ; and the second is in allowing currents of fresh air to 
 enter through sub-earth pipes. Bbth of these conditions prevent 
 hibernation and tend to restlessness. 
 
 In hives protected with chaff, sawdust, etc., we get a near ap- 
 proach to the condition secured in a single-walled hive in a 
 repository ; and, if the protection is^ sufficient, bees will'winter 
 out-of-doors as well as in. But it is plain, if we are to secure uni- 
 form temperature, we must winter in special depositories. My 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 75 
 
 objection to chaff-hives is the, cost and labor of preparatipn for 
 winter. 
 
 Two years of added experience enable me to give emphasis 
 to every word and line of the above article and I have now only 
 the following to add : — In localities where the winters are not so 
 cold as to prevent an occasional flight in mid-winter, bees will 
 winter better out-of-doors in chaff-hives than in cellars. But if 
 bees are placed in cellars as above and about the first of March 
 (on a suitable day for a flight) are removed to the summer stands 
 and packed, they will do just as well and consume less honey than 
 if left out of doors all winter. Again, bees do better in the spring 
 if protected than in single-walled hives, that is, they are not lia- 
 ble to spring dwindle, breed up faster, take less stores, swarm ear- 
 lier, and make more surplus honey than the unprotected colonies, 
 which are more severely affected by the cold windy days and 
 frosty nights of spring. 
 
 The second method is by Mr. P. R. Russell of Lynn, Mass. 
 Mr. Russell is onte of the model beekeepers of the period and 
 has had wonderful success in the management of the apiary. 
 His method of wintering is as follows : 
 
 To solve the problem of wintering bees successfully requires 
 the application of a little common sense in connection with 
 practical experience. In the early days of my beekeeping, I had 
 very poor success in wintering, not having a proper knowledge 
 of the matter. I then used the single-wall Langstroth hive hold- 
 ing ten frames, and sometimes I attempted to winter them on 
 their summer stands, and at other times in the cellar. In the 
 former case, I did not contract the brood-nest at all, or give 
 much of any protection, supposing the hive was all the protec- 
 ftion needed, but I found out my mistake after a while. Winter- 
 ing in the cellar proved a failure also, as my cellar was damp 
 and unsuitable. 
 
 Now, for six winters past, I have left my bees on their sum- 
 mer stands packed in planer-shavings, mostly, ai\d with very sat- 
 isfactory results. 
 
 In September, I contract my hives to their winter status by 
 removing all surplus . boxes and extra brood-frames, never leav- 
 ing in more than eight combs, *nd from that down to six accord- 
 ing to size of colony. By Oct. i, if any are found having less 
 
76 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 than twenty-five pounds of stores for winter they are at once fed 
 up to that figure ; then I let them set until I get ready to pack 
 them, meantime throwing over the brood-chamber a plenty of 
 old woollen mats and other things (by the way, I am a great 
 hand to keep the bees covered up warm at all times, summer or 
 winter). Early in November, I pack for winter by filling the va- 
 cant space between brood-combs and outside case with shav- 
 ings. There is no particular merit in shavings, over other material, 
 only they happen to come handy to me. I now remove the 
 honey-board and cover the combs with a wire-cloth screen, al- 
 lowing a. bee-space between. This screen answers also as the 
 best possible winter fe.eder for feeding the sugar and honey mixt- 
 ure. If this screen is put on too early in the fall, or left on too 
 late in spring, the bees will propolize it badly. Over the screen 
 I apply plenty of comfortables or sacks filled with leaves or shav- 
 ings at least six inches thick. In the cover, ample ventilation 
 is provided by a two-inch hole on opposite sides and as near the 
 roof as possible. I never pack the cover solid full, because I 
 want space for the wind to blow freely through and through, in 
 at one hole and out at the.other. I count this veritilation over 
 the packing as very important, and not at all inconsistent with 
 keeping the brood-nest warm. Everybody knows that dry cloth- 
 ing is much warmer than damp, and this ample circulation of air 
 is just what kdeps them dry, and consequently warm and com- 
 fortable, if they have plenty of packing. It is surprising how 
 much dampness a colony can develop in cold weather, and I at- 
 tribute my success largely to the fact of knowing how to get it 
 out of the hive without chilling the bees too much. Keep them 
 warm and dry is a good motto. Sunshine never hanned my bees 
 in winter, but bleak and windy locations are bad. Snow and ice 
 ■ are harmless ; indeed, I rather like to see my hives well buried in 
 snow. However, I try to kee|) ice away from the entrance some- 
 what, and cant the hive forward a little to prevent any water from 
 running in, also raiss the hive from the ground just enough to 
 avoid snow water. I never cut any holes in the combs for win- 
 ter passages' (useless). I never pay any attention to pollen. It 
 is true my bees will spatter their hives quite a lot in spring when 
 taking their first flights, but it is seldom that I lose a colony from 
 this cause. But, says one, don't the rain and snow beat iii these 
 great holes in the cap ? I answer, yes, a very little at times, but 
 it soon dries out again, and withal, much more dampness passes 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 77 
 
 out than ever comes in. I have tried holes of one inch in diam- 
 eter, also an inch and a half,, but I find one and three-fourths 
 about the correct size, and they should always be covered with 
 wire cloth. I begin to unpack my hives about the first of May, 
 or when they begin to call for more room. The standing or 
 closed-end frame seems best adapted to my system of winter- 
 ing. The new Bay State hive is of this description and must 
 at least be a good one for out-door wintering. I don't think I 
 should care to use chaifhives or those in which -the pac^cing 
 is permanent, as they are too expensive and heavy to handle, 
 also liablp to get water-logged. If packing' becomes wet and 
 frozen it is worse than none at all. 
 
 In my opinion packing is much better than a mere dead-air 
 space. Did you ever ^ee an ice-house built on the " dead-air plan" 
 without being packed with spent-tan or sawdust? The same 
 principle applies to the bee-hive. We pack our bees to keep the 
 animal heat in, and we pack our ice to keep the solar heat out. 
 The best packing material is that which is the poorest conductor 
 of heat and cold. Water is a good conductor ; therefore, damp- 
 ness destroys the value of the packing. 
 
 When I go to bed on a cold winter night I don't cover myself 
 up in enartiel cloth or a rubber blanket expecting to keep warm 
 by preventing a circulation of air. Did I do so, I should find 
 myself damp and cold, and sickness would soon follow. But I 
 cover myself with pdrous woollen blankets, ^that pass off damp- 
 ness and keep me dry and warm. Why not give the bees the 
 benefit of the same logic ? I am well aware that bees winter 
 at times under almost any kind of treatment, and again die out 
 with the best of care. But these exceptions should not impinge 
 against the rule of applied common sense. , ^ 
 
 I will now describe the method practised in regard to winter- 
 ing in the Bay State Apiary. " 
 
 All the colonies , kept in our apiary are wintered on the sum- 
 mer-stands. This we could not do successfully were our bees in 
 single-wall hives. A good double-wall hive is the best, and in fact 
 is the only hive which I think should be used for outside winter- 
 ing. 
 
 I believe no one claims that bees do not sometimes winter 
 well in single-wall hives. They do sometimes winter well ; and 
 no one cares to assert that bees are certain to winter even id * 
 
•jS THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 double-wall h,ives. Yet the latter hive is the proper one to use 
 so far as experience has solved the winter problem. Not only in 
 winter does the double- wall hive have the advantage over the sin- 
 gle-wall hive, but in spring more particularly. 
 
 Bees may pass safe through the winter months and be in fair 
 conditi'on on the iirst day of April, yet a colony cannot be con- 
 sidered safely wintered that has not gone through to the loth of 
 May. At that date if the colony is a strong one with plenty of 
 beds and brood they haye wintered through in perfect condition. 
 
 To accomplish sflch a result the following method has been 
 practised for many years in the Bay State Apiary : It is of course 
 understood that the proper amount of food, say twenty- five lbs., 
 must be in the combs and sealed before October i . Each col- 
 ony should have a good queen, and this means one that is young 
 and properly bred. The colony should consist of at least, four 
 quarts of bees that were reared after August i . These conditions 
 are absolutely necessary for the safe wintering of a colony of bees. 
 The hives are placed two feet above the ground, this is neces- 
 sary to protect the bees from the dampness of the earth in winter 
 and to keep the front of the hive above the snow, and will also 
 obviate the necessity of removing the snow except after heavy 
 storms. ; 
 
 In the double-wall hives we use there is a space of two inches 
 between the walls of the outer and inner hives, and if the snow is 
 banked against them all winter it can do rio damage. 
 
 Packing and its disadvantages. 
 
 If the hives are so constructed that no moisture can get through 
 the outer case at any joint, the space may be filled with chaff, 
 planer-shavings or hay that is cut about two inches long. Unless 
 the packing can be kept very dry none should be used. I will 
 give the reasons why I so advise. 
 
 In kll the hives I have packed, the combs were nearly ruined 
 by mould. In some instances the moisture got in through the 
 outer-case and at other times it came from the bees and seemed 
 to penetrate the entire packing, so much so, that the hive and 
 combs were damp until the approach of warm, dry weather. 
 
 I really cannot see any advantage of the packing during the 
 winter months. If the hives are made in a workmanlike man- 
 ner the cold air cannot reach the brood-chamber. In my ex- 
 perience spring packing is far more important than in winter. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 79 
 
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 Wire-cloth honey-hoard. 
 
 Faoking over the combs. 
 
 The proper place to pack is over the combs. This should be 
 done not only to prevent a draft of air through the brood-cham- 
 ber but also to retain the heat and absorb the moisture arising 
 from the bees. Our plan 
 is this — a wire cloth hon- 
 ey-board is first placed on 
 to give the bees passage- 
 way over the frames for 
 the bees to pass from one 
 comb to another, and also 
 so that feeding may be 
 done in the winter or 
 spring, and, also, in order 
 that the colony may be 
 examined at any time 
 with little or no disturbance to the bees. We first place upon the 
 honey-board a heavy duck-^nat. This article is not within reach 
 of beekeepers who live far from seaport towns. As new goods 
 of t^is kind would be most too expensive, we obtain it, second- 
 hand, of the sail-makers, for about ten cents per pound. One 
 pound will make two mats for L. hives. These mats are very 
 heavy and durable. 
 
 The next thing to put on is the cushion. This is nothing but 
 a cotton-cloth sack, made from the cheapest grade goods. ' Three 
 sides are sewed up, the sack is then filled with hay cut about two 
 inches long. Most beekeepers I believe use chaff and planer- 
 shavings for the same purpose, and we did so up to the fall of 
 1887. At that time I did not have at hand sufficient chaff to fill all 
 the cushions I wanted to use, and hay was substituted in its stead. 
 I was happily surprised in the spring, when examining the colo- 
 nies, to find that those that had the sacks of hay were in the 
 cleanest and brightest condition. The hay, being more open, let 
 the dampness through more freely than any of the other material 
 used, while at the same time it was sufficiently close to prevent 
 too much ventilation through the broodrchamber. I am so well 
 pleased with the experiment that hay only will be used in the 
 future in the Bay State Apiary with which to fill the cushions or 
 pack around the hive for, winter protection. 
 
So THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 BemoTing the packing in spring. 
 I never have made it a practice to remove the packing from 
 the liives until it is time to put the sections on. In fact, special 
 pains are taken in the spring to protect the brood- chamber from 
 cold and to retain all the heat as much as possible. The warm- 
 er the brood-nest is kept (that is of course to the natural de- 
 gree) the more rapidly brood-rearing will go on. 
 
 Contracting the entrance as a means to retain heat. 
 Every apiary should be provided with the entrance blocks 
 which Mr. Langstroth has the credit of inventing. These blocks 
 give perfect and easy control of the entrance at any tiriie of the 
 year. In order to promote brood-rearing the entrance should be 
 contracted to about half an inch on cool days and nights. I 
 know of no way that it can be so quickly, and easily done as with 
 the entrance blocks. When the weather is warm, the entrance 
 can be enlarged by mer,ely changing the position of one of the 
 blocks. Unless the colony is a very large one an opening 2J 
 inches in width is plenty large. I rather like the idea of making 
 the entrance so small that the bees crowd a little during the bus- 
 iest part of the day. There is no serious disadvantage when they 
 do so if the weather is cool, and no honey is being gathered. 
 The bees seem to enjoy it, and I am inclined to think they feel 
 encouraged while jostling against each other in passing out of 
 and into the hive. It really seems more like business. Too large 
 an entrance is a disadvantage to any colony. During hot weather 
 I give an entrance the whole width of the brood-chamber. 
 
 Shading the hires in winter- 
 When the bees have been confined in the hives several weeks 
 they are easily induced to take a flight, and if the warm rays of 
 the sun strike the front of the hives during the middle of the 
 day, many bees will venture out, and before they can return will 
 become chilled, arjd drop to the ground or on the snow. 
 
 To shade the hives and prevent the loss of bees, lean a wide 
 board against the front of each one in such a way that the light 
 will be excluded from the entrance. 
 
 Cleansing flight in winter. 
 It is generally supposed that bees wintering on the summer- 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 8 1 
 
 Stands will be more likely to go through safely, and in tetter con- 
 dition if the weather is such that they can have a good flight 
 about once during each month. 
 
 I rather the bees would not fly from December i to January 
 20 ; after that an occasional flight would be a decided benefit. 
 Generally there are several days in February and March when the 
 temperature is sufficiently warm for the bees to fly with safety. 
 I let mine fly when the temperature in the shade is 45° or more 
 above zero, provided there is no wind. 
 
 Wintering; bees in oellars. 
 
 Wintering in a cellar and in repositories has not been a success 
 with me. Yet tliis is no reason why other people do not suc- 
 ceed. I think I have failed for want of proper ventilation of 
 the cellar. Notwithstanding the fact that it has just been de- 
 cided that a cellar in which to winter bees needs no ventilation, 
 I am of the opinion that those whose cellars already have ventil- 
 ators in them will not remove nor close them when the bees are 
 put in. Were I intending to use my cellar again for bees, I cer- 
 tainly should put in ventilating tubes to furnish them all the fresh 
 air needed. 
 
 The Production of Comb Honey. 
 
 The manager of the American Apiculturist invited several 
 well-known beekeepers of great experience to give their methods 
 for managing an apiary for the production of comb honey. We 
 believe he was the first person to advance the idea of the impor-' 
 t£mce and the great advantage it would be to the general bee- 
 keeping public in publishing special papers written by beekeep- 
 ers of experience and those who are in active employment m the 
 apiary each season and by men capable in every sense that 4;hat 
 word implies of teaching and instructing the novice and even those 
 who have had many years experience in the apiary how to con- 
 duct beekeeping m order to obtain the best results. The first es- 
 sky on the, production of comb honey that.appeared in print may 
 be found in the first edition of the Beekeepers' Handy Book, 
 and was written by Geo. W. House, then of Fayetteville, N. Y. 
 The reputation of Mr. House as a beekeeper and honey, pro- 
 ducer was well known to, all. 
 
 Let me say in the first.place that there will be no trouble in 
 
 11 
 
82 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 producing honey in any form in a good season when the flowers 
 are yielding nectar in what we call a good honey season. There- 
 fore what is here said and advised is intended to apply to those 
 seasons when there is plenty of forage for the bees to gather from. 
 In order to get a crop of honey there must first be a crop of 
 bees. How to produce them at the right time and in the desired 
 quantities is the first thing to be considered. 
 
 In the April (1889) issue of the American Apiculturist, Mr. 
 G. M. Doolittle of Borodino, N. Y., gave a most excellent method 
 for preparing bees for the harvest. We consider it of so much 
 importance and so valuable to all engaged in the production of 
 honey that it is given here entire. 
 
 FreparinK for the harvest. 
 I am keeping bees solely for the profit there is in them, hence 
 shall write this article from a " matter-of-fact " standpoint, as 1 
 am sure one week of practical experience is worth years of the- 
 orizing. Believing this to be so, I propose to take the reader 
 right into my apiary, as it were, and show him just what I do, 
 thus giving him all the benefit of my experience of working an 
 apiary for profit. Say what we may of pleasure, the most of us 
 find out that there is little pleasure in the ordinary avocations of 
 life, unless there is a cash value attached to them. From this 
 standpoint we will begin. • 
 
 Taking the bees &om the cellar. 
 
 First, then, we have the, getting our bees out of winter quar- 
 ters. Nearly all beekeepers in the northern states have been 
 forced to the conclusion that the cellar is the only safe place to 
 winter bees, while of late years the fact prevails, that in order to 
 meet with the best success^ the bees should not be set out till 
 settled warm weather arrives, which usually occurs when the soft 
 maple and the elm commence to bloom, firom which the first 
 pollen of any account is gathered. If set out earlier the bees 
 waste away in their fruitless attempts to get something where 
 nothing is to be obtained, from which comes "spring dwindling," 
 resulting in a loss of stock. 
 
 Now, as to how the setting out is done. I first light my bel- 
 lows-smoker and proceed with it and a' spring wheelbarrow to 
 the cellar door, at which place both are left, when I go in and 
 get one of the colonies and place it on the barrow. As soon as 
 
THE BEEKKEPERS' DIRECTORY. 83 
 
 this is done, I. puff a little smoke in at the entrance of the hive, 
 so as to keep the bees from running out and stinging me, which 
 they are sure to do if no precaution is taken, and of all the bees 
 to sting, those which are suddenly awakened from a long winter 
 nap are the worst. Again, all such bees as get out before the 
 hive is placed upon its stand are lost, as they mark their location ' 
 where they leave the hive and so never find it again, unless it is 
 placed on its former stand, which thing I do not do. Also the 
 smoking causes them to be slower about coming out, so that 
 swarming out and confusion are avoided. As soon as the smoke 
 is puffed into the hive the cellar door is shut so as not to raise 
 the temperature and thus arouse the bees inside, when the hive 
 is wheeled to where it is to stand during the summer, the en- 
 trance adjusted and the cover put on. In setting out, they are 
 not all taken out at once, but I set out ten to fifteen in the 
 morning, scattering them well over the yard, and then as many 
 more at night, beginning at about four o'clock. This is to avoid 
 robbing, and also the mixing of the bees. Of course, it is un- 
 derstood that the bees are only set out on pleasant days, with 
 the mercury at fifty degrees or above in the shade. It is sup- 
 posed by some that when the bees are set from the cellar, each 
 Colony must occupy the exact position or stand that it did the 
 summer and fall previous, or else many bees will be lost by go- 
 ing back to their former location. 
 
 All who are at all familiar with bees know that the young bee, 
 when it comes out of the^hive for the first time, marks its loca- 
 tion by turning its head toward the hive upon taking wing, when 
 it commences flying in front of the hive in circles, ;each circle 
 growing larger as it goes farther from the hive, until it is lost 
 from sight. In this way the exact spot of " home" is located, 
 after which no more precaution needs to be taken by our bee, 
 for it seems to remember ever afterward where home is. For 
 this reason it leaves its hive on all subsequent times in a direct 
 Ime of flight, never looking at the hive at all, so that if the hive 
 is carried to a new location, the bees do not seem to know it 
 (unless carried a mile or more away) ; but sally forth only to re- 
 turn to the exact spot where they first marked their home, there 
 to die homeless wanderers. Now, while as a rule this is perfectly 
 true, no matter whether the hive is moved in the night or day 
 time, yet I find that there are two exceptions, one of which is in 
 the case of a swarm, and the other is the first flight iti spring. 
 
84 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 While the bees always seem to know where their old location 
 Was, so that the swarm or bees in the spring can return if they 
 desire to, still a swarm does not so desire except from loss of 
 the queen, nor do bees in spring, if set out in the manner de- 
 scribed above. Hence, in setting out, I always place the hive 
 » where I wish it to stand, thus avoiding much inconvenience and 
 extra work. 
 
 Ouarding against robbing— Feeding. 
 
 About the first thing which is necessary to know, after getting 
 the bees from the cella;:, is that they all have stores sufficient to 
 carry them through till honey becomes sufficient in the field for 
 their support. Because there are a few wild flowers here and. 
 there, we must not presume that the bees'are getting honey, even 
 if they are flying freely, for the fact proves that, as a rule, scarce- 
 ly any honey is obtained until fruit bloom opens, except in lo- 
 calities where the golden willow abounds. Hence, we must 
 know that each colony has honey, or loss by starvation is liable 
 to occur. If it were not for robber bees, the best way to ascer- 
 tain the amount of honey in a hive would be to open it and take 
 out each frame ; but as robbing is to be guarded against as much 
 as possible at this season of the year, I simply raise the cover to 
 each hive and blow a little smoke over the top of the. frames, 
 which causes the bees to run down from the top of the combs 
 (where the honey is always stored), thus leavmg them exposed 
 to view. If much sealed honey is seen, that colony is marked 
 as having enough stores to carry it through. If litde sealed hon- 
 ey is seen, the hive is so marked that I know that it needs look- 
 ing after in a week or so. If none is seen it must be looked 
 after at once. After having gone over each hive as^bove, I 
 know at a glance all those which need feeding. If I have combs 
 of sealed honey left over from the season previous, I set such 
 combs in these hives, which, by the way, is just the nicest way 
 to feed bees of any I know. If I do not have such combs, or 
 honey on hand, of any kind, I make a feed as follows : Put a 
 gallon of water in any tin vessel and bring it to a boil, when 
 eight pounds of granulated sugar are to be poured in and stirred 
 a little, so it will not settle to the bottom and burn. As soon as 
 it boils again, set from the fire and put in a gillof good vinegar 
 (stirring a little to mix), when the feed is ready for the bees as. 
 soon as it is cool enough not to burn them. In "feeding, use any 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 85 
 
 of the many feeders now in use which will get the syrup as near 
 the bees as possible, so that should a cold snap occur they need 
 not starve with plenty of food in the feeder. 
 
 How to know that a colony has a good queen. 
 When settled warm weather comes, it is necessary that each 
 colony contain^ prolific queen, for if the queen in any colony 
 should be old and failing, that colony could not be gotten in 
 proper shape to take advantage of the honey harvest. As the 
 queen is the mother of all the bees in the hive, she must be able 
 to lay rapidly so as to increase the population quickly, and if 
 such an one is not in the hive she should be superseded by a 
 better queen. To know what kind of a queen there is in each 
 hive, inspect the combs, and if no eggs or larva are found in the " 
 cells, you can reasonably expect that they are queenless, while 
 if the eggs and brood are scattered about in different cells with- 
 out regularity, the queen is unprolific, so that in either case an- 
 other queen should be given them. While looking over the 
 colonies at this time, I clip the queen's wings, as swarming is 
 conducted with a safety and ease which are not attained when 
 the queens have their wings. After seeing that each colony has 
 a good queen with clipped wings, the next thing to be done is 
 to prepare for the surplus crop of honey. Do not put this off 
 till the honey harvest arrives, for if this is done, we are often 
 -caught by having the best part of the season pass while we are 
 getting ready. Always have the "dish right side up to catch the 
 honey." A few days' neglect at this season will often turn what 
 might be a splendid success into a failure. 
 
 SpreadinK brood, etc. 
 If you have not already done so, get your surplus arrangement 
 for honey all ready to go on the hive, so that there will be no de- 
 lay when the bees are getting honey. We must now get the bees 
 fully prepared for the harvest by getting the comb full of eggs in 
 sufficient time for the bees hatching from those eggs to becorne la- 
 borers in the harvest. But how shall we get the eggs laid just when 
 we want them ? There are several ways of doing it, but I will give 
 only one here. About May first to fifteenth I commence to do 
 what is known as "spreading the brood," which is simply turning 
 the brood-nest by changing the places of the combs in the hive 
 so that those in the centre of the nest are on the outside, and the 
 outside ones in the centre, which causes the queen to immedi- 
 
86 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 ately have more brood in these now centre combs, than was in 
 the others removed from the centre. In a few days a comb that 
 has no brood in it is placed in the centre of the brood-nest by 
 taking it from near the side of the hive, after which the nest is 
 spread apart enough so as to take this empty comb. As soon as 
 this comb is filled, more are added, and so on till the hive is full 
 of young bees, in all stages, so that there will be a multitude of 
 laborers at the right time and double_as many as there would have 
 been had the bees been allowed to take their own course. As 
 soon as the hives are thus filled with bees and brood, and honey is 
 coming in from the fields, the surplus arrangement is to be put 
 on, when the bees will immediately take possession of them if 
 all has been done as it should be. In this way the best possible 
 result in honey is secured, far better than by any other plan of 
 which I know. 
 
 Mr. Doolittle has told us how to manage the apiary from the 
 time the bees are taken from the cellar to the time the sections 
 should be placed on the hive. Mr. George F. Robbins of Me- 
 chanicsburgi 111., whose writings are read with so much interest 
 by all the ' readers of the Apiculturist will take up the -subject 
 where Mr. Doolittle left it and give a method for putting "on, re- 
 moving and getting bees out of sections, also how to care for the 
 honey until it is sent to market. Mr. Robbins says : 
 
 "When to put on Sections. 
 
 When the question as to when to put on surplus arrangements 
 comes up for consideration, the conditions attendant upon local- 
 ity and honey sources must be first noted. Nearly all my honey 
 is obtained from white clover, and the bulk of it is usually gath- 
 ere'd in June. I can only write for my locality — let him whose 
 chief source of supply is basswood write for his. 
 
 Clover heads may often be seen as early~as the fifth of May, 
 and the meadows will be white with blossoms two week? or 
 more before the honey flow commences. As a rule, clover here 
 blossoms profusely about the twentieth to , the twenty-fifth of 
 May, and between the fifth and eighth of June my strongest col- - 
 onies will commence work in surplus boxes. The first flush of 
 the honey flow arouses the instinct to swarm. It is thus that this 
 instinct can be easiest diverted into a more profitable channel. 
 Then is the time to put on sections. But only those of sufficient 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 87 
 
 Strength are disposed either to swarm or to go to work outside 
 of the brood-clusters, and nothing is ever gained by putting on 
 sections before they reach that point. No matter if they do fill 
 up the cells from which bees are hatching to some extent. When 
 they do go above, the younger bees, which do the work in the sec- 
 tions, wiU empty these ceHs, which are not apt to be sealed, and 
 carry the honey up with them. In my climate I find it impossi- 
 ble to get all stocks up to the proper pitch of strength by June 
 5, but one after another the most of them reach it during the 
 next ten days. I have never known a colony, except a new 
 swarm, to be ready to go above until the bees go to clustering 
 out in front in the heat of the day and not always then. But 
 if you begin with those that come out the heaviest and examine 
 them^ we can tell if they are approaching near to the point of 
 readiness. If there is newly sealed honey along the top-bars, and 
 considerable fresh white brace-comb above them, put on the 
 sections. They are never ready before these signs appear and ' 
 quite extensively too. 
 
 Whether new swarms are hived in full or contracted brood- 
 chambers, on combs, foundation or empty frames, I strongly ad- 
 vise putting on surplus arrangements at the start. They will 
 work above and below at the same time and will build less drone- 
 comb below, and the apiarist will get more honey. In case a 
 full brood-chamber is used, a queen-excluder may not be needed ; 
 but not having tried it I cannot speak positively on that point. 
 
 When to remove sections. 
 
 As soon as they are finished. It may be better to have the 
 row of cells around the edge of the section sealed over, but it is 
 by no means necessary. 
 
 When wide frames are used and empty ones are added to the 
 sides, as the bees want room, those inside may be finished more 
 thoroughly without becoming more noticeably travel-stained. 
 The same might be said of the middle sections of the upper 
 super when tierin^-up is practised. But bees are slow to seal 
 up these outside cells, and I think it better not to wait for this. 
 Whatever you do, remove your section honey while yet in its vir- 
 gin whiteness. I want to emphasize that thought emphatically, 
 if you please. I know it is argued that honey improves in fla- 
 vor when left on some time to be ripened by the bees ; but I 
 have proven the contrary to my satisfaction as I will show far- 
 
88 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 ther on. And if the best flavor can be secured at the same time, 
 it is certainly better to take off the honey as soon as possible, 
 for both the cappings and the liquid itself become darker the 
 longer it is left on the hive. It is conceded that, other things 
 being equal, the prettiest honey sells the best. 
 
 Never leave unfinished sections on the hive after the clover 
 harvest is over, waiting for a later flow to fill them out. When 
 honey fails gradually, the inside sections will be largely sealed 
 over. But, sometimes, the flow will cease in a day's time. In 
 either case when the time comes that little or nothing is done, 
 it does not pay to leave sections on the hive. 
 
 During the long dearth the bees will daub the foundation, the- 
 walls of the sections and the edges of unsealed cells with propolis. 
 Such sections are spoiled for ever getting a first-class article of- 
 honey. Better take them off" and put them back later in case of 
 a honey flow. 
 
 To get bees out of sections. 
 
 In the midst of the honey season it is most convenient to take 
 off' honey while bees are flying. More bees are in the field be- 
 tween nine and twelve o'clock than in any part of the day, and 
 that is the best time to take off" sections if other things wiir per- 
 mit. When you open the hive, drive the bees down with smoke 
 if your super will allow it. Take off" the super pt frame and 
 give it a number of quick, jarring shakes ; smoke, a littie and 
 shake again. Lean the super or frames against the hive or put 
 them on top of some neighboring hive. Go to another hive and 
 proceed as before. If conditions are most favorable quite a num- 
 ber can be treated thus, and by the time^you get around to- the 
 first one the bees will be nearly or quite all gone, and the honey 
 can be carried to the honey-house. If robbers begin to bother 
 — watch — not so much can be taken off" at once. In that case 
 I take my plunder to the honey-house doorj remove the sec- 
 tions, brush off the bees if any remain, and carry them in. If a. 
 few bees get into the honey-house they will seek the window. I 
 simply lower the upper sash and raise the lower for a minute 
 when nearly all will get out. 
 
 In case honey has failed, begin quite early in the morning and 
 remove a few supers as directed above. More bees will remain 
 in the boxes of course. The best method then is to carry the 
 hoiiey into the shop, or screen house, it you have one., I take. 
 
THE- beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 80- 
 
 out the sections, brush off the bees, carry them into the honey- 
 . house, darken the window and open the door. By the time the 
 bees begin to be pretty well aroused I quit, and resume opera- 
 tions in the evening or next morning. 
 
 The best plaoe to keep honey till sold. 
 I think that my style of honey-house cannot be excelled for 
 keeping honey until freezing weather. It is the cheapest I could 
 put up to be bee-tight and weather-pro6f. It is a single-walled 
 room, 12X12 feet, and 8 feet high to the eaves, built of eight-inch 
 flooring, covered with two coats of red paint. • There Is a win- 
 dow ii» the south side, and with the door shut and the summer's 
 sun pouring in through that window, the heat is hot as you may 
 imagine. Into this I carry my honey in supers or on a board, hive 
 covers, etc;, and pile it up. At my leisure I pack it away in boxes 
 or empty hives in which to fumigate it and keep it from millers, 
 etc. Here, in this hot, almost air-tight room, honey ripens better 
 than on the hive. Now I know that many prominent beekeep- 
 ers dispute this. But, after having my attention accidentally called 
 to the matter in former years, in 1887 I made a, to me, convinc- 
 ing test. Nearly all my crop was gathered that year in about ten 
 days in June, the flow stopping pretty abruptly. I immediately 
 took off the most of it, finished and unfinished, and stored it in 
 the honey-house. It certainly had had no time to ripen on the 
 hives. In Sejitember, I took off the rest.' I wish that oppo- 
 , nents of ray view could have eaten at my table a few times. All 
 through the winter the difference was perceptible. No matter 
 whether sealed over or not, that taken off early was among the 
 thickest, whitest, richest flavored honey I ever raised or tasted. 
 That taken off later was much thinner and lacked tlje ravishing 
 flavor of the former. 
 
 A caution right here. Leave at least a six inch space between 
 the honey and the wall or floor. That packed within that dis- 
 tance sometimes sours, always becomes watery and rancid. 
 
 Prevention of Swarming, and Swarm Controllers. 
 
 Most beekeepers would prevent swarming were it possible to 
 do so. But such a thingjs oije of the impossibilities and is likely 
 to remain so for some time. While natural increase is desira- 
 
 X3 
 
go We beekeepers' directory. 
 
 ble in some apiaries, it is, as a rule, undesirable with a large ma- 
 jority of beekeepers. 
 
 It is as natural for bees to swarm as it is for them to gather , 
 honey and store it in the combs. This fact must not be lost sight 
 of when we talk about "breeding out " the propensity to swarm. 
 However, it is an interesting point to discuss as to whether or not 
 in "breeding out" one quality some other quality would not be 
 destroyed at the same time. Certainly, we have a natural law to 
 contend with, and its effects to counteract. 
 
 Two questions are suggested here. First, can swarming be 
 prevented? If so, how? Sometimes we see non-swarming hives 
 advertised.' The inventors claim that bees kept in them will not 
 swarm. That will prove true in some seasons, and the same 
 may be said of all styles of hives from the nail-cask to the latest 
 bee-hive devised. Yet the fact remains all the samethat a non- 
 swarming hive has not been invented by any one, nor is a strain 
 of non-swarming bees likely to put in an appearance just yet, 
 though several parties claim to have them. 
 
 Recognizing the fact that the prevention of swarming is, beyond 
 the power of man to' control, let us consider and discuss the 
 different methods of managing bees when a swarm issues, and 
 how best to handle an apiary at swarming time, 
 
 "Wing clipping. 
 
 It is the practice of many beekeepers to clip off a portion of 
 one of the wings of the queen, intending thereby to prevent the 
 loss of swarms should any issue. S^ch an operation will, of 
 course, prevent any first swarms from decamping to the woods, 
 but that does not finish the work required to be done when a 
 colony swarms whose queen Is clipped. In fact, the labor inci- 
 dent to swarming by that method has just begun. When a swarm 
 issues, the queen, if clipped, will drop to the ground, and if the 
 hive is so arranged tl^at she can crawl back to it she will do so 
 and the bees will soon return. Now, any experienced beekeeper 
 must know that bees require attentiort again very soon ; as another 
 swarm, or rather the same one, will issue the next fair day and 
 will continue to do so unless the old queen is destroyed, or until 
 one of the young queens appear, when a swarm will come off and 
 will be pretty likely to go direct from the apiary to the place the 
 bees had previously selected for -a home. There is one way 
 that swarming a second time can be prevented and that is by re- 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 9 1 
 
 moving all the queen-cells as soon as the first swarm has issued 
 and introducing a young fertile queen. In some cases this would 
 be a great job. Suppose, for instance, there are a large number 
 of sections on the hive a swarm issues from and the bees work- 
 ing in them. Who would care to look over twenty colonies each 
 day for cells ? Another objection to clipping the queens is this : 
 Suppose a swarm issues in the absence of the beekeeper, how is 
 the fact to be known ? Should the queen fall to the ground when 
 she comes out, and one of those large, plump toads, such as are 
 .found in all gardens at swarming time, gobbles her ladyship, 
 how is the fact of the loss of the queen to be known except by a 
 thorough search of the combs ? The same difficulty that would 
 be encountered in destroying queen cells when a colony swarms, 
 would be present in -th^s case. A thorough search of 'the combs 
 might not reveal the presence of the queen, even though she had 
 returned to the hive.' If not found, one would be apt to say, 
 especially if he had received several good stings, " well I guess 
 she is there," and let it go at that. While all this is going on, 
 Mr. Toad, giving a knowing wink, would say, " clip all the queens, 
 I am very fond of that sort of food." 
 
 If a colony swarms whose queen is cUpped it will be necessary 
 to drop all work and attend to the bees. Then suppose several 
 colonies swarm having queens whose wings havfe been clipped, 
 what is to be done? Those who practise clipping will say. Why ! 
 we so arrange it that all queens can return to the hive ; we do 
 no running, and have no trouble about it. Very well ; now please 
 tell us how you manage your apiary after the queen and bees have 
 returned in oirder to prevent any further swarming. 
 
 I am opposed to clipping the wings of any queens, as I be- 
 lieve there is a better method for controlling the swarming fever, 
 and for handling bees after a swarm issues. 
 
 Heversing to prevent swarming. 
 
 Reversing the brood-combs to prevent swarming has been 
 practised to some extent and found impracticable. To prevent 
 and break up the swarming fever it is necessary to reverse the 
 brood-combs as often as once in three day^. Such a practice 
 no doubt would so upset the bees (by destroying the queen cells, 
 or the larval queens), that no swarms would issue. 
 
 At the time reversing should be practised the bees are work- 
 ing or at least should be working in the sections. Well, now how 
 
92 THE BKEKEEPERS' DIRECTORVw 
 
 would it work to remove two or three sets of sections with millions 
 of bees in them from the hives in a large apiary once in three 
 days for the purpose of preventing swarming? Who would 
 care to do it ? Such a method for preventing natural increase 
 is far from practical. I will > tell you what is practical and thor- 
 oughly practical, in the line of reversing. 
 
 I will suppose that the combs can be reversed singly or 
 bodily as it can be done with the Bay State Hive. I have 
 found that the proper time to reverse is after a swarm has is- 
 sued. We will suppose the queen has been secured in a 
 drone-and-queen trap, and while the bees are in the air hunt- 
 ing for the queen, quickly remove the sections and reverse 
 the combs. No smoke will be needed, as there are but few 
 bees in the hive at the time, and what are left are not dis- 
 posed to sting. By the time the work can be completed the 
 bees will begin to return, and on entering the liive are so 
 astonished at and surprised to find their combs turned wrong 
 side up, that they really suppose they are in a new home and 
 give up all idea of swarming. They accept the situation, and 
 resume work with a will, and ninety-nine colonies thus treated 
 will make no further attempt to swarm. 
 
 The success of this method depends upon the age of the 
 queen cells. Swarms generally issue on the first favorable 
 day after one or more of the queen-cells are sealed. Now 
 should the swarming be delayed for six or seven days after the - 
 queen cells are sealed, reversing would , not be a success as 
 the young queens would not be destroyed by such an opera- 
 tion. The point t© be gained in reversing is the destruction 
 of the larval queens in the cells just sealed, after which the 
 bees will remove them, and if swarming has not been wholly 
 given; up other cells will be started, and another swarm will 
 issue on the fourth day after the first one came off and re- 
 versing must be repeated. 
 
 Swarm ooutroUers. 
 
 I have given the most practical method for preventing 
 swarming. Now I will tell you how to control swarms after or 
 when they issuer and how it is done with the drone-and-queen 
 trap. I know no one should " toot his own horn " as I shall 
 be obliged to do in order to explain and describe the work- 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 93 
 
 » 
 
 ings of the most wonderful device yet Invented and which 
 has now been in use the past five years and has given perfect 
 satisfaction as a swarm controller and for catching and de- 
 stroying drones. The advantage of this little implement 
 to those who keep bees can only> be appreciated by testing 
 them. It is a queen- catcher, and not a swarm catcher. That 
 the trap is a success, and will do all that is claimed for it, is 
 well known to those who have read the testimonials published 
 from time to time in the American Apiculturist. Such a thing 
 as failing to catch the queen at swarming time is unknown 
 when the trap is in order, and properly adjusted to the hive. 
 The trap will catch all, or nearly all, the drones of a col- 
 ony the first time they attempt to fly out. The illustration 
 will give the reader a 
 good idea of the trap 
 and how , it is con- 
 structed. The trap is 
 made of thin wood {% 
 stuff) and although we 
 have sent twenty thou- 
 sands of them through 
 the mails during thepast 
 
 five years, only one was Drone-and- Queen trap. . 
 
 damaged. They are 
 
 well made and will last ten yeai:s if properly cared for. 
 
 The cone-shape tube through which the queen and drones 
 pass into the trap, or chamber, after they find they cannot 
 go tllrough the perforations in the metal, may be seen through 
 the, wire-cloth at the front. 
 
 "When a swarm issues, the queen, finding the passage way 
 obstructed by the metal, at'Once passes through the tube to 
 the chamber above. During the rush at swarming time when 
 the bees begin to tumble out of the hive a few will get into the 
 trap, but quickly find their way out through an opening at 
 the top at the left hand corner. Very few bees go into the 
 trap excepting at thei time a swam issues, or during the first 
 hour after it is placed on the hive. 
 
 Destroying drones. 
 As a rule beekeepers do not know the amount of honey 
 consumed by the tens of thousands useless drones reared in 
 
94 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 the apiary. The drone is a consumer and not a producer 
 of honey. I think one drone requires three times as much 
 food for his existence as one worker bee does. More or less 
 drones will be reared in every colony and "all the measures 
 taken to prevent it will be futile in most caseSj When drones 
 are needed the bees find a way of rearing them. If no 'drone- 
 comb is to be found in the hive, the bees will cut away the 
 worker-brood-comb, at one corner of the frame and build 
 drone cells therein. If there are any holes in the combs 
 such as the bees usually use for passage-ways from one comb 
 to another, such openings will be utilized for drone-brood. 
 I have known drones to be reared on one side of a comb, 
 while worker-brood was reared on the side opposite, notv^ith- 
 standing the fact that some writers assert that such a thing 
 never happens. 
 
 Drones are required in the apiary most of the time from 
 May 1 to Sept. 20, and in queen-rearing apiaries a month 
 later. One hive containing one thousand drones is sufficient 
 for an apiary of several hundred colonies, although I think 
 it is generally understood that a colony will do better if it 
 has the company of a few drones. I have known colonies to 
 rear so many drones that it required all the worker force of 
 that particular to supply them with food. 
 
 There are two periods during the warm months when drones 
 are reared. The first batch from May to the middle of June ; 
 the second from August to Sept. 10. Considering that these 
 useless bees are such largA consumers of honey, should not 
 some way be devised for the destruction of a 'portion of their 
 number ? 
 
 The first year I kept bees I saw the necessity Of some de- 
 vice by which many of the drones could be destroyed. I was 
 not long in arranging a trap that was the means of catching 
 over one thousand drones the first day it was placed on a 
 hive. 
 
 Although I used a drone-trap for twenty years before the 
 introduction of perforated metal, yet they were not so con- 
 structed as to be considered practical or to be adopted by 
 beekeepers generally. The main features of the traps I 
 used were not changed by the addition of the perforated 
 metal. The latter was the thing required to perfect the trap, 
 aad make it practical for general use. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. qg 
 
 The trap as » drone-catcher. 
 When the trap is placed at the entrance of a hive no drones 
 or queens can escape though the worker bees do not have the 
 slightest difficulty in passing the perforations in the metal, 
 while nearly eve.ry drone that .attempts to leave the hive will 
 be trapped the first day it is set, and a large proportion of 
 all the drones in the colony will be destroyed in the course of 
 three days. The trap may remain on the hive all the season 
 if occasionally cleaned of the drones. The best time to. do 
 such work is early in the morning, as no drone, at that time 
 of the day, will attempt to fly. Make a hole in the ground 
 and throw the contents of the trap into it and cover up. 
 
 How to manage the trap when a swarm issues. 
 
 The trap should be placed on the hives about the time the 
 bees are expected to swarm, or at any time it is desirable to 
 destroy any of the drones. It should be put on in the morn- 
 ing, or at night after the bees are about done work. The 
 bees will be somewhat bothered at the different appearance of 
 the front of the hive by the trap being placed there, but after 
 they have been through the metal two or three times or work-' 
 ing through it for an hour there will be little or no trouble. 
 The trap is so constructed that the proper ventilation of the 
 hive is in no wise interfered with. We place them on nearly 
 every hive in the Bay State apiary, and there they remain 
 during the entire season, and though our hives are without 
 any protection from the heat of the sun the bees do not clus- 
 ter up on the outside to any extent, and there is no other, 
 means of ventilation except at the entrance and through l;he 
 trap. 
 
 When a swarm issues the queen will try to pass the metal ; 
 but, finding she cannot, will pass through the cone-tube in- 
 to the chapiber, or trap. When once in she cannot return. 
 The bees, of course, are some distance from the stand, fly- 
 ing through the air in search of their queen. Not finding 
 her, they soon return to the hive they went from, but before 
 they have had time to do so, the parent hive should be re- 
 moved one side, or back a few feet and a new one put on the 
 stand in its place. The bees, being confused on account of 
 having, no queen, do not notice the change that has been 
 
g6 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 made, and rush pell-mell into the nejv hive ; as they do so, the 
 trap is placed near the entrance and the queen is released 
 and at once joins the. swarm and the bees have hived them- 
 selves. As soon as all the bees have entered, the hive should 
 then be placed on a. new stand, and the old stock occupy its 
 former position. 
 
 I have known as many as three colonies to cast swarms at 
 the same time and form one cluster and remain so for some 
 time ; when discovering that they had no- queen, each swarm 
 i-eturned to its respective hive. Swarms will occasionally 
 come out and cluster wlien the trap is used^ but they usually 
 return to the hive in a few minutes, although I remember of 
 one swarm that came out about 11 a. m., and settled upon a 
 limb, and did not return till two o'clock in the afternoon. 
 This was a case where one of the wings of the queen was 
 Clipped and no trap was used. 
 
 The trap will surely destroy all drones and prevent the 
 loss of any swarms, and greatly aid the beekeeper at swarm- 
 ing time. 
 
 Where th.e trap is used the necessity for climbing from ten 
 to thirty, and sometimes forty feet into a tree for a swarm 
 of bees is obviated, nor is there any necessity for running to 
 the hive the moment a swarm issues. One can rest assured 
 that the bees will not decamp but return to the locatitin they 
 started from. 
 
 ■What to do in case a swarm is returned to the hive. 
 
 i 
 
 When a swarm is to be returned to the hive they issue from, 
 some little work is required to prevent another one from com- 
 ing out the next day. I usually remove all the queen-cells 
 and return the bees without the queen. In the course of three 
 days a young queen is introduced and no further swarming is 
 attempted for the season. This plan will givie satisfaction in a 
 majority of cases. I am aware what a j'ob it is to open a full 
 colony and remove all the queen-cells, yet it is necessary to 
 do so if the cells are to be preserved, if swarming is to be 
 delayed or prevented. 
 
 Here is another way to manage swarms. 
 On several occasions when swarms have issued near the 
 close of the honey harvest the queen was taken from the trap 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORT. 97 
 
 and caged, or destroyed if a new one was to be introduced, 
 and the young queens left to manage the best they- could. 
 The usual result .is this : A swarm would issue when the last 
 queen left the cell. The queen was left in the trap for a while, 
 or until it was convenient to introduce another. When ready 
 a fertile queen was introduced by the cage system as given 
 in the ApicuUurist for April, 1889, page 64. The cage was 
 placed in the trap and in a few hours the queen was liberated 
 and passed out of the trap through an opening arranged for 
 the purpose. This device has been attached to the trap since 
 the illustration was made ; therefore it is not shown in the 
 cut. It is merely a small hole at the end of the division- 
 board, which is opened and closed by a small nail operated 
 at one end of the trap. The original design of this arrange- 
 ment was intended for a queen to return from the trap to the 
 hive when a swarm issued. 
 
 Hiving swarms where the trap is not used. 
 
 When a swarm issues and is left to settle in the natural way, 
 the bees should not be troubled until nearly all have joined 
 the cluster. Then with a good hand force-pump wet thfe bees 
 so none can take wing. When the wat6r has done dripping 
 from them, take a basket (say one that will hold half a bushel 
 and has no fixed handle), place it directly under the cluster and 
 with a sudden upward blow of the hand dislodge the bees and 
 nearly all will fall into the basket. If any fly they will follow 
 those in the basket if you do not descend too rapidly. 
 
 Place the hive on the ground outside of the limbs of the 
 tree so that the bees that take wing can find it. As soon as 
 the bees have entered, or are clinging to the hive, remove it 
 to the stand it is to occupy. 
 
 Dividing swarms when two or more issue and light in one cluster. 
 
 , When two or more swarms issue and settle on the same 
 limb as they often will do in large apiaries, they should be 
 treated to a thorough drenching ©f cold water. After having 
 prepared two hives for their reception, place them on blan- 
 kets or cloths of some kind several feet apart, shake the bees 
 into a basket and then turn them upon the blankets in front 
 of the hives dividing them as nearly equal as possible. As they 
 
 13 
 
$8 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 run towards the hive look sharp for the queens. By placing 
 a drone-trap at the entrance of each hive there would be less 
 trouble in finding the queens. When found give one, to each 
 lot of bees. Do not touch the queens with the hands, or with 
 anything that would be likely to give them a foreign smell, 
 as they would most likely be killed. No smoke is usually 
 needed for such an operation, yet it is always best to be well 
 prepared for the unexpected, therefore the smoker should be 
 at hand in case it is needed. In this case a little smoke would 
 prevent the bees injuring the queens. 
 
 When the queens have been found, the traps should be re- 
 moved, and as soon as the bees have entered the hive remove 
 them to a stand and no further trouble will ensue. 
 
 Artificial increase of the apiary. 
 
 Twenty years ago this subject was considered a most im- 
 portant one, but now most beekeepers have all the informa- 
 tion on this point that is really necessary. This reminds me 
 of a little conversation I happened to hear one day. About 
 the time mowing machines were first introduced, we had one 
 of those wet seasons, in fact, it was so wet that nearly all 
 the hay crop hereabouts was ruined. An old farmer hap- 
 pened along and of course he growled about so much rain. 
 All people find fault who have to depend upon the weather 
 for a part, or all of their living, such as beekeepers, for in- 
 stance. Well, says a man to the old farmer, " Why don't 
 yoa buy a mowing machine?" " Mowing machine," says the 
 farmer, "I will buy a drying machine if I can find one." Well, 
 this is about the fix that most beekeepers of the present day 
 are in. What is wanted is not a knowledge as to how to in- 
 crease their apiary, but how to prevent swarming and in- 
 crease. 
 
 Notwithstanding this fact, there are many beekeepers who 
 would like to increase their apiaries. Considering this and 
 appreciating the fact also, that the best way to enlarge the 
 apiary is by artificial increase, I will give a plan for forming 
 new colonies. I wi,ll not say that it is the best method and 
 will not claim that this method is applicable to all localities, 
 yet, here in New England, it works well. 
 
 About Aug. 1, 1888, or about three weeks after the close of 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 99 
 
 the honey harvest, I divided six colonies of bees in the fol- 
 lowing manner : The bees were in eight-frame hives. As 
 near as I could do so, I took one-half of the combs, bees, 
 brood and honey and placed them in an empty hive and then 
 filled the balance of the brood-chamber with frames of foun- 
 dation. After locating the queen in one of the hives, it was 
 moved about ten feet to a new location, and at the same time 
 a queen was introduced by the cage method to the other col- 
 ony or other half of the original stock. The covers were then 
 placed on and the bees left alone for several weeks. On 
 opening the hives one day, I found the foundation well drawn 
 out, brood in all the combs and the new queens successfully 
 introduced, but no stores. Those colonies did not gather an 
 ounce of honey after they were divided. Wet weather set 
 in Sept. 1 and ruined the fall crop. The result was that ev- 
 ery colony had to be fed nearly all their winter stores. 
 
 I should have said that the frames of foundation were 
 placed in between each two combs of brood so far as it could 
 be done. 
 
 How to manage an apiary when one has all the colonies needed. 
 
 I cannot say from experience just what I would do in case 
 my apiary had reached that number of colonies that further 
 increase would be undesirable, as I have never been in just 
 those circumstances. However, the things that the beekeeper 
 might desire in the line of increase would be beyond his 
 power to control, as the bees would continue to swarm the 
 same as usual. Now, rather than purchase new hives, I think 
 it a better plan to double-up, putting two and even three 
 swarms in one hive. Why not? There can be no objection 
 to such a practice and the advantages by so doing are many. 
 
 If increase of comb honey is the object, what better meth- 
 od for securing it could be adopted ? If one colony issues 
 hive it ; if one or two more come out the same day, put them 
 in with the first swarm. Then pile on the sections and give 
 the bees a chance ; one, two and even three cases of sections, 
 if there are bees enough to work in so many. 
 
 In a large apiary there will be, or there generally are, more 
 or less colonies whose queens during the season have become 
 worthless on account of old age, and other colonies that have 
 lost their queens. In order to keep the apiary dov^n to a cer- 
 
J 00 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 tain number, those colonies that failed to be profitable should 
 be destroyed and the hives and combs packed away for use 
 another season. I believe that the above plan is a practical 
 one in any location. 
 
 FasteniBg foundation in frames and sections. 
 
 It requires tact, experience, good judgment and a conven- 
 ient place, as well as the proper appliances for doing good 
 work at fastening foundation in frames or sections. 
 
 While some beekeepers have used hot beeswax for fasten- 
 ing foundation in brood-frames, I have not made it a success. 
 When thus fastened it is pretty likely to break away at the 
 top during a hot day when the bees commence to work upon 
 it. I have used melted beeswax and rosin to some extent 
 and had less trouble about the foundation breaking down. 
 That way for doing such work is too slow and requires more 
 time than I can devote to it. 
 
 I find tliere are, at least, two better methods than the bees- 
 wax plan for fastening foundation in frames. The first one 
 is as follows : Have a piece of board not quite as large as 
 the inside of the frame and same thickness as the top-bar ; 
 nail this board to the bench, say about three itiches on from 
 the edge, so as to leave room for the frame to rest. Invert the 
 frame and let the top-bar rest against the edge of board. Have 
 the sheets of foundation cut half an inch shorter the longest 
 way than the inside of the frame, as it should not touch the 
 end-bars of the frame except at the top. Lay the foundation 
 on the board and let it enter the frame about a quarter of an 
 inch beyond the centre. Have at hand some thin strips of 
 wood, say one-fourth of an inch wide and not over an eighth 
 of an inch thick and as long as the foundation. Place one 
 of these strips on the foundation and drive some small nails 
 through it into the top-bar. Reverse the frame and run the 
 ball of the thumb (after wetting it with spittle) along the 
 edge of the foundation at the top to press it to the centre of 
 the frame. Now, to get the foundation so that it will be flat 
 and smooth, have a board same size of inside of the frame, 
 and threer«ighths of an inch thick ; lay it on the bench and 
 place the frame of foundation over it. Then use the hands 
 or a piece of board to flatten and press the foundation into 
 shape. The reom must be quite warm, say 90°, and then the 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. lOI 
 
 wax may be woi^ed easily. As the frames are prepared, 
 hang them in a hive and they may soon be used. 
 
 Another way to fasten foundation in frames is to malje a» 
 saw kerf nearly the whole length in the top-bar and wide 
 enough to let the heaviest foundation in. Fasten it in by 
 driving nails through the edge of the bar. 
 
 Should the foundation hang out at the bottom corners, 
 wire nails should be driven in the frame to keep it in place ; 
 the nail sheuld be removed when the comb is built. 
 
 Fastening foundation in sections. 
 
 There are several ways for fastening starters in sections. 
 Of all the methods that we have tested for doing this work, 
 I have found none so good and none so practical as the one 
 I shall describe here. While it is the best plan to fill the sec- 
 tion nearly full of foundation, it will do nearly as well to 
 put a small V-shaped piece in. Cut the foundation so it will 
 come down to within half an inch of the bottom of the sec- 
 tion and let the top be nearly as wide as the inside of the 
 section. When put in in this shape, the labor and time re- 
 quired to do the work are much less. 
 
 In order to get every piece the same size, I make a wooden 
 pattern to cut' them by. I have at hand an iron vessel large 
 enough to hold one quart. In this is placed equal parts of 
 beeswax and rosin which are melted over the blaze of a ker- 
 osene stove. When the mixture begins to smoke a little, it 
 is ready for use and the wick is turned down and raised again 
 when the wax begins to grow cool. Should the mixture get 
 too cool, the foundation would not stay in place and if too 
 hot it would melt the foundation too much when dipped in^o 
 it. One will soon learn the proper temperature that works 
 best. 
 
 When all is ready, the sections are piled on a bench or ta- 
 ble and the work of placing the foundation in the section is 
 begun. I can put them in as fast as a good, smart hand can 
 pick them up and pack them away. The sections are packed 
 away and in the same position they are to occupy on the 
 hive. I like to do all the above work in a pretty warm roqm. 
 Then, if the foundation leans a little to one side, it will 
 gradually settle into the proper position ; even if it should 
 
102 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 not do so then, it will after it has been on the hive a few- 
 hours. 
 
 There, my friends, you can adopt the above method for 
 such work, or any other you choose, and I shall be satisfied. 
 We have used the above plan and speak from long experi- 
 ence. Long before the introduction of comb foundation, we 
 used melted beeswax and rosin for fastening small pieces bf 
 comb in surplus boxes and for fastening comb starters in 
 brood-frames. 
 
 Doubtless many who have kept bees for only a few years 
 will find a better way for doing some things than the experi-, 
 enced beekeeper has any knowledge of. 
 
 Bee-hives. 
 
 The reader will expect us to say something about bee- 
 hives. I hardly know what to say upon a subject of such great 
 interest to all who keep bees. It will not do for me to praise 
 any particular style of hive as a good many beekeepers would 
 feel hurt. Most any of the hives now in use are good enough 
 to keep bees in and when properly managed bee-culture will 
 be made successful. All the late styles of hives combine the 
 best and most important features that are necessary in a 
 good hive. It should be understood by the reader that no 
 one hive can be constructed to combine all the desirable fea- 
 tures, and in accordance with the ideas of every beekeeper. 
 I know of no better way for one to decide for himself as to 
 the hive he wants than to purchase one of the well-known mov- 
 able-frame hives, and use it one or two years and study the 
 principle of that hive and at the same time thoroughly post 
 himself by reading up the hive question. This can be done by 
 subscribing for the several bee-papers published in this coun- 
 try. There is no subject connected with bee-culture that 
 has been so thoroughly treated in the bee-publications as the 
 hive question. 
 
 A hive that would prove successful in the hands of some 
 skilful beekeeper might prove a failure in the hands of the 
 novice. 
 
 A good hive should combine the following important fea- 
 tures : 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 103 
 
 1 . It should have movable frames and so constructed that 
 the bees will not build brace-combs between and over the top- 
 bars. 
 
 2. The brood-chamber should not be so large that there 
 would be room for the bees to work and build combs between 
 the end of the frames and the end of the hive. A space 
 of i inch is all the room that is necessary for drawing the 
 frames without killing any bees. The same rule must be ap- 
 plied to the space between the top-bars and the honey-board, 
 or whatever is used ov^r the frames. If a space of over J inch 
 is allowed over the frames the bees will fill it with comb and 
 honey. When this is the case it will require a heavy instru- 
 ment to raise a section-case, or to remove the honey-board 
 and as all such operations irritate the bees the operator will 
 be likely to get badly stung. Three-sixteenths of an inch 
 over the frames is as much space as is necessary to let a bee 
 pass. 
 
 3. The frames should not reach within half an inch of the 
 bottom of the hive. There is no danger of the bees building 
 the comb down through the bottom-bars unless there is an inch 
 or more space under them. A large amount of room is needed 
 under the frames for the health of the bees, and for the proper 
 ventilation of the hive. Bees will winter better, the combs 
 mould less and more honey will be stored in the sections in 
 hives that have a good bee-space under the frames. Why ? for 
 the reason that the hive will be well ventilated. Good ventila- 
 tion in a hot day will keep the interior so comfortable that the 
 bees will not be forced to desert the sections and cluster 
 upon the outside of the hive. It also aids the^bees to ripen 
 the new honey better and more quickly. 
 
 4. The entrance to the hive should be not less than ten 
 inches long and half an inch high. With the entrance blocks 
 described on another page the size of the entrance is easily 
 and quickly enlarged or contracted. Take a blockof wood 
 at least seven-eighths of an inch thick and four inches long 
 and about three inches wide, saw it in two from opposite 
 corners. By placing the blocks in difi'erent positions, the 
 entrance may be made to admit only one bee at a time, or 
 enlarged to several inches in width. 
 
 5. All hives should be arranged and adapted to tiering 
 the sections. It is much the best plan to tier the sections 
 
104 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 above the frames than it is to place them at the sides of the 
 brood-chamber. 
 
 6. For many years the brood-chamber of most hives have 
 been made large enough to take ten frames side by side, but 
 eight-frame hives are coming into favor, experience having 
 demonstrated their superiority over larger hives. The ten- 
 frame hive should be fourteen and one-fourth inches wide in- 
 side and the eight-frame hive but twelve inches wide. 
 
 7. Bee-hives should not be made of thick boards. They 
 are too heavy to handle, cost too much and are no better in 
 any way than hives made of boards three-eighths of an inch 
 thick. The thin boards must be kept well painted to be du- 
 rable. 
 
 8. If bees are to be wintered upon the summer-stand they 
 should have double-walls. A space, of two inches at least, 
 should be allowed between the walls of the outer and inner 
 hive. This may be filled with chaff or other warm material 
 in winter. With me bees winter best without any packing 
 except over the frames. , 
 
 Having stated some of the principal points that a good hive 
 should possess, I will new describe several of those in use. 
 
 Dr. Tinker's hive. 
 
 The Nonpareil Bee Hive devised by Dr. G. L. Tinker of 
 New Philadelphia, Ohio, is a hive of recent introduction and 
 may be described as follows : — The bottom is not attached to 
 the brood-chamber and is composed of a framework 2^ inches 
 framework 2^ inches wide rabbeted at the top edges to re- 
 ceive a thin (i inch) board or boards, the entrance being so 
 formed as to open beneath the brood frames. 
 
 The brood-chamber is made to storify, and is 7| inches deep, 
 by 11|- inches wid^ by 17| long inside measure. The sides 
 are f and the ends f of an inch thick. 
 
 The brood-frames are 7X17 inches outside measure and the 
 top-bar is one inch wide, | thick and 18| inches long. These 
 frames are supported on metal rabbets like any Langstroth 
 frame. 
 
 The honey-board is made queen-excluding by the use of 
 strips of perforated zinc f of an inch wide. The wood slats are 
 plump I of an inch wide by J^ thick and in the adjoining 
 edges are made thin saw kerfs into which the zinc strips are 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. 
 
 105 
 
 inserted. The wood slats are set in a suitable framework so 
 as to be alternate with the eight brood- frames used in the 
 brood-chamber. The strips of zinc have two rows of perfo- 
 rations and are let into the saw kerfs so that the perforations 
 come within ^ of an inch of the wood, affording a ready foot- 
 hold for the bees to pass through. This honey-board is the 
 original invention of Dr. G. L. Tinker, who decided to make 
 it a gift to beekeepers, and it is now public property. As 
 
 Fig. 3. The Nonpareil bee-hive, 
 
 an invention it is second to none of the valuable agents now 
 considered indispensable to successful apiculture. 
 
 The section super is composed of a framework or case with 
 removable side held in place by adjustable hooks. The case 
 supports six wide frames each holding four sections. The top 
 and bottom bars of the frames are only -^^ of an inch thick 
 and are prevented from sagging by a centre bar. Wood sep- 
 arators having three perferations are used betv^een the frames 
 and sections. The latter are made with open sides. There 
 are twelve openings into each section affording the most per- 
 fect ventilation of the super and hence rapid ripening of the 
 honey. The size used is 4JX4iXl|, and holds exactly one 
 pound. The cover is double and lined with roofing tin on top 
 
 14 
 
io6 
 
 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECX.ORY. 
 
 and is good for an indefinite service if painted once in three 
 years. 
 
 Tiie extracting super used is identical in all respects with 
 
 Fig. 4. I>r. linker's honey-board. 
 
 the brood-chamber and may be storified, as also the section 
 super, to any extent desired. 
 
 Section-cases. 
 
 Section-cases or holders are among the new things in api- 
 culture. The styles are not in such great variety as in hives, 
 but in the course of a few years there will be as much confu- 
 sion in that line as there is in the countless styles of differ- 
 ent hives. 
 
 We shall take the space here to describe but two kinds of 
 section holders. Tlie one here illustrated was devised by 
 Frank A. Eaton of Bluffton, Ohio. 
 
 The accompanying cut, fig. 5, represents the case ; it has 
 the combined features of the single-tier broad-frames and the 
 open case, having a slatted bottom to correspond with the bot- 
 tom of the sections which protects the latter and keeps them 
 clean from brace-combs and coming off the hive as clean as 
 when first put on. It can be used in connection with a wood- 
 and-zinc honey-board if desired, as other cases are, or it can 
 be used to good advantage without, as the slatted bottom 
 keeps the sections clean. It can be made with the bee-space 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. , 
 
 107 
 
 at thetop or bottom, as desired ; with a hive where tlie brood- 
 frames come flush with the top of the hive, the bee-space should 
 be at the bottom of the section-case. The sections set compact, 
 thereby admitting of the use of sections with bee-space open- 
 ings on all four sides where such sections are used. It can be 
 used with or without separators without a particle of change ; 
 
 Pig. 5. Eaton's section-case. 
 
 this is one of its novel features. When put together it is solid 
 and substantial ; is all in one piece, there being no loose J 
 rests or parts to get misplaced, but is always ready for use. 
 
 It has a movable or hinged side ingeniously arranged, ad- 
 mitting of the easy removing of the sections without revers- 
 ing and driving them out, as that practice often breaks the 
 comb from the section ; any particular section can be re- 
 moved with ease. 
 
 It is so arranged as to fill out in length the regular L. 
 frame hive and in tiering-up it forms a part of the hive, the 
 cover of the hive raising as fast as tiered-up ; the case being 
 a protection to the sections against weather, the same as the 
 hive protects the brood-frames. 
 
 This case has been thoroughly tested by many of our best 
 honey-producers and pronounced a superior case. 
 
 The Bay State section case. 
 
 This case has been in use four seasons, and we have yet 
 to learn one instance where it has not given satisfaction. 
 A brief description may not be out of place. 
 
 The Bay State section-holder is composed of six broad 
 
io8 THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 frames, each holding four one-pound sections. Wood-sepa- 
 rators are placed between each two frames. The separators 
 can be discarded if one desires to so use the case. Of course, 
 the honey would not be stored in the sections in a very desir- 
 able or a salable form. I believe it cannot be done without 
 the use of separators.. Not only is it necessary to use such 
 things in order to have the combs built within the sections, 
 but it is equally important to have the combs attached solidly 
 on all sides of the section. Here, in some parts of New Eng- 
 land, we are obliged to reverse the sections if the comb is to 
 fill the box without leaving tlie "pop-holes." The Bay State 
 section -holder is reversible; not one broad-frame at a time, 
 but the entire set of six broad-frames of twenty-four sections 
 can be reversed bodily and in less time than it takes to de- 
 scribe it. 
 
 The broad-frames are so constructed that the bees cannot 
 soil the sections to any great extent. 
 
 The outside frames and sections are protected by pieces 
 which serve as clamps through which an iron rod is run , hav- 
 ing thumb-nuts at each end, thus clamping the entire case 
 solidly and firmly. 
 
 When the sections are full, all can be removed at once and 
 not by one section at a time as has to be done with some 
 cases. When the middle frame of sections is filled, the rod 
 may be drawn out, the frame removed and another put in in 
 its place. All this can be done with the least trouble and 
 inconvenience. 
 
 For tiering, I believe the Bay State reversible section-case 
 is unequalled. It matters not how high the cases are tiered, 
 the passage way is continuous from the brood-chamber to the 
 upper case. 
 
 Seotions. 
 
 In the matter of sections I believe the one-piece one-pound 
 section will, if it has not already done so, drive all other 
 kinds from the market. A few old style beekeepers still stick 
 to the four-piece sections, yet their number is so few that the 
 fact is hardly worth mentioning. 
 
 Oontraotine the brood-ohamber to secure more honey in sections. 
 Some prominent beekeepers strongly recommend contract- 
 ing the brood-chamber when working ifor comb honey. The 
 reasons given are that the smaller the brood-nest the more 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 109 
 
 bees will be forced to go into the sections to work ; and as the 
 storage room is all above, the bees must necessarily place the 
 surplus honey in the sections. This is pretty good reason- 
 ing and is a method that we find works well. Yet, I am of 
 the Opinion that there is such a thing as going too far in the 
 line of contraction. 
 
 I think it is as well to make the brood-chamber as small as 
 it should be and at the same time furnish room for the accom- 
 modation of the bees, so far as is necessary for rearing broocjl 
 and storing a sufficient amount of honey for the winter's sup- 
 ply of food. On this point, Dr. G-. L. Tinker and myself 
 reached the same conclusions unbeknown to each other and 
 at about the same time. I do not believe in fussing with the 
 brood-chamber at all. Space will not allow me to give my 
 objections to the useless meddling with the bees. I am sure 
 I can produce more honey in the sections by my method than 
 it is possible to obtain by any system of contraction. The 
 brood-chamber that, gives me the best results has eight frames 
 17^ inches wide and 7J- inches deep. This is inside measure. 
 With a brood-nest containing only that number of cubic 
 inches, there is no special need of contraction. 
 
 Tiering sections. 
 Tiering is now practised by all successful honey producers. 
 The old-fashioned method of placing boxes or sections in or at 
 the side of the brood-nest is one of the things of the past ; 
 while the better plan of tiering above the brood-chamber has 
 taken the place of all other methods. The reversible section 
 case is peculiarly adapted 
 to the tiering system and 
 was devised with that end 
 in view. The passage way 
 from the bottom of the 
 ' frames is continuous to 
 the farthest section on the 
 hive. We liave had as 
 many as four cases, one 
 piled above the other on 
 a hive at one time and the 
 bees filled all before any 
 
 were removed. When one case is nearly full, raise and re- 
 verse it and place another under, and so on until there are 
 not over four cases on the hive. 
 
 (liiliJiliS 
 
 Fig. 6. Section-case and brood-cliambei: 
 
no THK BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY, 
 
 Brood in the sections. 
 By our system of management for securing comb honey 
 together witli the section case above described, the queen has 
 never deposited an egg even in one section, and we never 
 have used any sort of a honey-board on the Bay State hive.- 
 Fig. 6 gives a good illustration of the section case and the 
 manner in which it is placed on the hive. 
 
 ■When to reverse and when to add another set of sections to the hive. 
 
 As stated above, the sections should be reversed when the 
 honey in the middle sections is about one-third capped. Just 
 at reversing time is when another case of sections should be 
 placed on the hive. The partly filled set of sections are re- 
 moved, the empty set put on and then the case, partly filled, 
 is reversed and placed upon the empty case. 
 
 Tliere are more bees in an ordinary colony than can work 
 to advantage in one case of twenty-four sections when it is 
 half filled. Hence the necessity of giving the bees additional 
 storage room. 
 
 There are advantages of leaving the sections on the hive 
 after they have been filled. One of them is this : If the honey 
 is left on the hive several weeks after it is stored, it is much 
 better ripened and the quality much improved. On the other 
 hand the longer the honey is left on, tlie darker the capping 
 becomes and the marketable value is correspondingly de- 
 creased. Those who take honey to market (or as for that 
 matter any other goods) know that the eye must be suited 
 as well as the taste. This ought not to be,. yet it is so the 
 world over. The mail who takes fruit or vegetables to mar- 
 ket must put, the finest specimens on top or a hard sale will be 
 the result. The old Quaker said, " Put the best on top as 
 that is the place where buyers expect to find it." 
 
 That is true and no doubt many of the readers of this have 
 found it so. In crating honey put the best where it will 
 meet the eye first and then the purchaser will get a good im- 
 pression of your goods to start with. When you have done 
 that, then continue to put just as good honey in other parts 
 of the crate and the purchaser will not only get a good im- 
 pression of the honey, but of the person who produced and sold 
 it, and your reputation as a square-dealing person will be es- 
 tablished at least to the extent of your sales. 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS' DIRECTORY. Ill 
 
 I am prompted to make the foregoing remarks on account 
 of a little personal expeilence T had in purchasing some honey 
 from a man in whom I placed too much confidence. I bought 
 a fine looking lot of honey and had it shipped to me from 
 Syracuse to Boston. It was put up in nice clean crates ; as is 
 the custom the best sections were at the sides and in plain 
 sight. Yet I was sold. Wlien on opening the crates in Boston 
 there was not one of them that had not been "doctored." 
 To the credit of the shipper be it said he on demand made 
 the damage good. 
 
 The Beotious:— how many sides opeu. 
 
 The width or style of the section has but little to do with 
 the sale of the honey in them. It is still a question which is 
 the better, a section open on two sides, or those open on four 
 sides. So far as my experience has been, I am inclined to 
 think the sections open on four sides are much the better, so 
 far as getting honey stored in them. 
 
 In placing the starters iii the open-side sections no mistake 
 can be made in getting the foundation on the wrong side of 
 the box. The section is always right side up. 
 
 This advantage will be appreciated when a fellow is in a 
 hurry to put starters in, or in placing sections in 'a case. 
 
 Other styles of seotions. 
 
 One-piece sections have not come into general use, though 
 they are destined so to do at no distant period. So far as I 
 am concerned I rather pay ten dollars per thousand for the 
 one-piece style than have the four-piece sections given me. 
 
 I can put up half-a-dozen one-piece sections in the same 
 time it takes to put up one four-piece section. Then, again, 
 when the one-piece section is put up it keeps its position and 
 may be handled in the roughest manner. We use no glue 
 to keep the section in its proper position. 
 
 There is so much competition in the section-manufacturing 
 business that those who offer them for sale seem to vie with 
 each other to see who can get out the nicest section and com- 
 mand the largest share of the business. So great is the com- 
 petition that each manufacturer has been obliged to introduce 
 the most improved machinery in order to hold his trade. We 
 have some sections in stock that are as near perfect as it is 
 possible, to attain. They are open on four sides, planed on 
 
112 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 two, and when folded the V-groove joint is as smooth as any- 
 thing can be. Eveiy section stands up plumb and square. 
 The dovetail joints are so perfect that none split or crack 
 when driven together and yet they go together so nicely that 
 none slip out and not one section will start at the joint when 
 they are handled. 
 
 Disposing Honey. 
 
 Wbere to find a market. 
 
 As these remarks are not intended for the experienced bee- 
 keeper or those engaged largely in the production of honey 
 and send it to market by the carload, nothing will be said 
 about crating, assorting, etc. Most beekeepers of any expe- 
 rience know all about that part of bee culture. The most 
 important matter, and one that interests the average bee- 
 keeper, or those who run a small apiary for amusement and 
 profit, when such a thing is possible, are the ones who desire 
 to find a quick sale for the products of the apiary. The bee- 
 keeper who lives near a large town can easily dispose of quite 
 a quantity of honey. Most all the grocerymen will purchase 
 more or less honey and they manage to dispose of it at a 
 profit. Sell only a good quality of honey. Use that which is 
 I inferior for vinegar. Put your name on every package you 
 dispose of, and then if the honey is satisfactory your reputa- 
 tion will be established. 
 
 "Where to keep the honey when taken from the hive. 
 I believe it is now generally understood that a dry, warm 
 room is the most suitable place in which to store honey after 
 it is taken from the hive. If one has several hundred pounds," 
 a room specially fitted for storing it is a necessity. Honey 
 must be kept out of the reach of flies and other insects, and 
 where no dust or dirt is to be found. 
 
 Queen-rearing. 
 Some one calls for a simple method for rearing queens. 
 There is no method for rearing queens that can be called sim- 
 ple, Yet there is nothing about it that should come under 
 the Head of scientific. True, one must have a good knowl- 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTdRY. -II3 
 
 edge of bee culture in order to carry on queen-rearing success- 
 fully. If any plan for rearing queens properly comes under the 
 head of simplicity, it is the one given on the following pages 
 and by which queens are reared by no other than in a strictly 
 natural way; 
 
 However, I will give a way for rearing queens by which one 
 can produce good queens, and perhaps is as easy a method 
 for the inexperienced to practise as any yet published. 
 
 A few days before you desire to start queen cells, insert a 
 clean new cemb (say one that has been used two or three 
 times for brood) in the centre of the brood-nest of the coloi!y 
 from whose queen j'ou desire to rear queens'. On the fourth 
 .day after, remove the queen from the colony in which the 
 cells are to be built. Within twenty-four hours, take the 
 frame from the hive in which it was placed for eggs. With a 
 thin, warm knife cut some pieces from the centre of the comb 
 two inches long by half an inch wide just where the eggs have 
 begun to hatch. By making three or four such apertures, 
 about a dozen queen cells will be made. Now remove one of 
 the middle combs from the hive in which the queen had been 
 taken and place the comb of eggs in its place, In eight 
 days remove the comb on which the cells are built and ex- 
 amine the other combs for cells. If any are found destroy 
 them and introduce a queen. 
 
 With the bees adhering to the frame of cells, and two combs 
 of honey, a nucleus for the protection of the cells may be 
 formed. By confining the bees to the hive a day or two, they 
 will not desert the cells if released in the apiary from which 
 they were taken. On the eleventh day after the cells were 
 started they should be transferred to other hives or placed 
 in the nursery. 
 
 Space will not allow us td give in full all the details con- ' 
 nected with queen-rearing. For full particulars for rearing 
 queens, the reader is invited to read the American ApicuUurist 
 beginning with the November, 1888, issue. There will be 
 found the latest and most complete methods for rearing 
 queens. 
 
 Bearing queens in fiill colonies without depriving the bees of 
 their aueen. 
 
 Rearing queens in full colonies while a fertile queen has the full 
 15 
 
114 'THE beekeepers' directory. 
 
 liberty of the combs and entire freedom of the brood-nest must 
 be considered among the new things connected with bee culture. 
 
 I will not claim that the idea of rearing queens in full colonies 
 without first removing the reigning queen is wholly original with 
 me, yet I shall claim the credit of being the first person to make 
 such an undertaking a success. 
 
 I think several well-known beekeepers have made an attempt 
 to rear queens while the laying queen was in the hive. In some 
 cases the queen was caged, but the queens reared in that way 
 have proved worthless in my apiary. ^ 
 
 i hardly think there can be found one person among all those 
 engaged in or who are interested in bee culture who has experi- 
 mented in this direction to the extent that the writer has in or- 
 der to discover some method by which queens can be reared 
 without depriving a colony of its queen. Even now I feel bound 
 to acknowledge the fact that the present method was more the 
 result of an accident than of any well directed experiment which 
 I had tested. 
 
 The swarming impulse, or the condition under which bees are 
 induced to construct gueen-cells. 
 
 All who have had any extended experience in beekeeping well 
 know that bees will not make preparations to swarm except un- 
 der certain conditions. What are these conditioss ? Perhaps this 
 method will be better understood if I explain those conditions that 
 must be present to cause a colony of bees to construct queen- 
 cells and to make every preparation to emigrate. These condi- 
 tions are : i. A good prolific queen. 2. The combs full of brood 
 in all stages. 3. Plenty of forage. All these things induce ac- 
 tivity in any healthy colony of bees. Perhaps the Word excite- 
 ment will better express the real condition of a colony when 
 in a proper condition to cast a swarm, or the condition that will 
 cause bees to construct queen- cells. 
 
 Now let us suppose that it is as late in the season as July 20. 
 We will also suppose that the honey harvest is past and that the 
 bees have nothing to do but to consume the honey already 
 stored in the combs. Now if one would like to know how to 
 create an excitement in the apiary, just place a small quantity 
 of honey within a few rods of the hives and you will not have 
 long, to wait to know tha* there is not a colony in the yard that is 
 not ready for business of some kind. This one fact merely illus- 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. IIS 
 
 trates what an easy matter it is to excite the bees at any time. 
 They are as ready to rear queens as they are to collect honey. 
 All they need is to be encouraged. 
 
 Now let us suppose that the combs are full of brood and that 
 there are thousands of young bees in the strongest colonies. It 
 is an easy matter to put those bees in a condition to swarm. As 
 there is no natural forage for them to gather, something arti- 
 ficial must be prepared instead. The best food or stimulant for 
 such a purpose is water, sugar and honey. Take two quarts 
 of best granulated sugar, one quart of water and one quart of 
 honey. Heat the water to the boiling point and dissolve the su- 
 gar in it, and then add the honey. When cooled down to a tem- 
 perature of about 75° or 80° feed it to the strongest colony in 
 the apiary. Use about two quarts the first day and one pint in 
 the morning and another pint at night for about three more 
 days. 
 
 Now if ten strong colonies be thus treated, nine of them will 
 be ready to rear queens. Should the combs be examined, cell- 
 cups (the foundation for queen-cells), each containing an egg, 
 would be found in nearly every hive. These cell-cups are usually 
 found on the edges and at the bottom of the combs. While 
 the presence of the cell- cups would indicate the readiness of the 
 bees to rear queens, or rather, their readiness to construct queen- 
 cells, not one colony in ten would rear any queens unless the 
 supply of food was kept up, nor would all the colonies even then 
 finish and seal the cells unless the cells had been started in some 
 other colony and worked on, at least fifteen hours. 
 
 Certain conditions must always be present in any operation 
 about bees if one is to be successful. Well, now to make cell- 
 building a success by this method the bees must have the combs 
 and eggs prepared for them the same as they should be if the 
 queens were to be reared in queenless colonies, yet the eggs 
 must not be placed in the hive at once, but given to a queen- 
 less colony and in the course of twenty-four hours give the cell- 
 cups to the colonies having laying queens that are to finish them. 
 This is our method for providing cell-cups for the bees. 
 
 How to start the oell-oups. 
 To start the cell-cups, it is necessary occasionally to deprive a 
 colony of its queen. Now, let me say that one strong colony when 
 first made queenless and treated as stated in the method for 
 
Il6 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 rearing queens as given in the " Beekeepers' Handy Book," will 
 start 10,000 queen-cells if as many eggs can be prepared and 
 given them. I will guarantee that to every egg about ready to 
 hatch when placed in the hive there will be a cell- cup started. 
 When I have a lot of eggs from a choice queen in the right con- 
 dition to start cells from, and the weather or other circilmstances 
 are such that 1 cannot prepare the proper nuirjber of colonies 
 for cell-building, the eggs and combs are prepared and placed in 
 a queenless colony. The next day, if convenient, I prepare 
 as many colonies as are needed for the number of cells to be 
 started and the cell-cups are divided among them. In this way 
 much valuable time is saved. 
 
 An old queen neoosaary. 
 
 Another condition that is absolutely necessary in order to rear 
 queens by this method is that the colony must have a queen at 
 least one year old. It would be impossible to rear queens by 
 this process in a colony having a prolific, young queen. Don't 
 attempt it. If the reader is well posted in bee culture he is not 
 ignorant of the fact that colonies having young queens, as a rule, 
 do not swarm. (These remarks do not apply to second swarms.) 
 Queens are usually one year old before any swarms issue. Here 
 is a hint which the experienced beekeeper will stop to consider, 
 as it is the key to this method of queen-rearing. When a queen 
 has lived two years and worked to her extreme egg-producing 
 capacity, she has seen her best days and will soon be superseded 
 by the bees. Upon this knowledge I based and conducted ex- 
 periments for the purpose of discovering some practical method 
 for rearing queens in a colony in which there is a fertile queen. 
 
 I think every one who takes an interest in bee culture will ap- 
 preciate the advantages of this method for producing queens 
 over all others yet advanced. 
 
 To read many of the descriptions of some of the operations 
 performed in the apiary, one gets an idea that they must be fussy 
 jobs ; no doubt this method seems to be a fussy one to conduct, 
 yet it is not. Of all the methods for rearing queens, I believe 
 this one involves the least labor and time. 
 
 Bearing queens in full colonies during the honey harvest. 
 I have now explained the prime conditions that must always 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. II7 
 
 be present if queen-rearing is to be practised and made success- 
 fill without removing the queen from a colony of bees. 
 
 So far as described, the plan relates to rearing queens after the 
 honey harvest has passed. To rear queens by the foregoing plan 
 during the honey flow requires quite a different treatment. 
 
 As soon as the best colonies begin to gather hopey they are 
 usually seized with the swarming impulse and at once begin to 
 construct queen-cells and make every preparation to swarm. 
 When a colony is in that condition, the bees are ready to rear 
 queens from the eggs, or larva prepared as above and placed 
 in the brood-nest. While a few cells will be made on the other 
 combs, the bees will rear a queen from every cell-cup prepared 
 and placed in the hive. Now without waiting for the bees to 
 start the queen cells, prepare the eggs for them according to the 
 directions given farther on, and the result will be a fine lot of 
 cells. 
 
 Just before dark of the fourth day after the cell-cups are placed 
 in the hive, remove and place them in a queenless colony, and in- 
 sert a new lot of cell-cups in the cell-building colony. Continue 
 to do this as long as the bees can be induced to rear queens. 
 
 Should a colony cast a swarm it will be necessary to open the 
 hive and destroy or remove the queen-cells that are built on the 
 other combs, and then return the bees and the queen with them 
 to the hive from which the swarm issued and at the same time 
 give them a new lot of cell-cups prepared as the first ones were. 
 
 After the honey^harvest is over no cells will be built except 
 from the ceU-cups placed in the hive. During the honey flow a 
 swarm is pretty suje to issue as soon as one cell is sealed. To pre- 
 vent it, the cells must be removed as soon as possible after they 
 are sealed. The exact time when they will be sealed may be 
 known to an hour. That will be on the eighth day after the egg 
 was deposited in the cell, that is, if the eggs were used the fourth 
 day after the queen laid them. Bear this in mind and it will 
 save much time and trouble. i 
 
 When the cells are removed from the hive the comb and ad- 
 hering bees should be taken with.them and all placed in aqueen- 
 less colony. If any of the cells are not sealed, there will be enough 
 young bees taken with them to finish them. 
 
 If a nucleus is formed it should consist of three standard frames 
 containing plenty of stores ; and if closed, it should be well sup- 
 plied with water for nursing the unsealed brood. 
 
Il8 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 FoTiainp; nucleus oolonies. 
 
 Let me say here that a nucleus colony may be formed of bees 
 taken at once from a colony having a fertile queen, and the cells 
 sealed or unsealed at once placed in the hive. If eggs, instead of 
 queen-cells nearly ready to cap, were given bees under the same 
 condition, nearly all of them would be destroyed. (How to form 
 nucleus colonies is described in the March, 1889, issue of the 
 American Apiculturist.) 
 
 Several colonies in the Bay State Apiary, in 1888, built from 
 iifty to one hundred queen cells each, and the queen had the 
 free use of the comb the entire season. In fact, I paid no atten- 
 tion to the queen, at any time. V/hen one set of cells were sealed 
 or nearly so, the comb on which they were built was removed 
 and another lot of cell-cups inserted. There is no trouble in 
 keeping the bees at work at cell-building as long as the supply of 
 food is kept up and the cell-cups are furnished them. 
 
 When the combs are filled with syrup extract it, and after add- 
 ing a small quantity of water, feed it back to the bees again. 
 Now if this method for rearing queens will work as well in other 
 apiaries as it has in the Bay State Apiary, why try to rear queens 
 by any other method ? Is there a rnethod for rearing queens that 
 seems so practical or one that comes so near nature ? 
 
 Preparing the combs and eggs for cell-building. 
 The combs and eggs for the queen-cells are prepared for this 
 method exactly the same as they are in the other plan hereto- 
 fore pubKshed by me. As a large number of those who will read 
 this work have never seen a copy of the "Beekeepers' Handy 
 Book," I will give my plan for preparing the comb and eggs for 
 cell-building. It is as follows : ' 
 
 When ready to set the bees to building cells, one of the combs 
 containing plenty of eggs at ' the proper age for starting queen- 
 cells should be removed from the hive in which the breeding 
 queen is kept, and taken to a warm room previously prepared 
 for quickly doing the necessary work. There should be at hand 
 an oil stove, and an iron-pan, say one that is twelve inches long, 
 six inches wide and not less than three inches deep, in which 
 should be a quantity of beeswax and rosin sufficiently heated, to 
 have the material mix well. 
 
 An old table-knife, one having a very thin blade and made 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. II9 
 
 quite sharp is one of the most convenient and handy tools that I 
 have in the apiary. This is used for cutting foundation or comb 
 of any kind. A knife for such a purpose will work nicely if 
 warmed. 
 
 A quantity of hot water should be at hand to dip the knife in 
 occasionally. When not convenient to have the water, the knife 
 may be warmed by the blaze of a kerosene lamp. 
 
 Selecting the eggs for the' cells. 
 
 Now we are ready to cut the comb from the frame. Bear in 
 mind that the last eggs deposited by the queen are those near 
 the edge of the comb, and in order not to take such, those eggs 
 are selected nearest the centre of the patch of unhatched eggs. I 
 mean by this, that should a queen be allowed to fill one comb 
 with eggs, those deposited in the centre of the comb will be the 
 first eggs to hatch and those are the ones to select for queen- 
 cells. 
 
 If queen-rearing is to be done upon a large scale, it is much the 
 best plan to keep the queen whose eggs are, to be used in a small 
 hive having fi-ames but five inches square and five frames to the 
 hive. The eggs in the centre *comb would be at the right age and 
 condition for cell-building in just eighty-four hours after it was 
 placed in the hive. Our way is to draw out the middle comb each 
 
 day, and insert another one. We 
 
 then have eggs every .day in the ^SSSS^IS^^OO^^Q 
 proper condition for queen-rear- MiglglgigJi^^i^tftffM 
 mg. These combs are placed m a nssaBMaffi^^SSaKH 
 queenless colony until needed. ssSSSSSSlsStBsSSS^ 
 After warming the' knife again, the M^li^iJIglpll^lfilPIII^^ 
 comb IS cut in strips through each BgsSsaMaaKHBHHBSa 
 alternate row of cells as indicated BSSASSkSSbBSSBSI 
 by the hnes in fig. 7. When this _ 
 
 has been done the pieces are laid 
 
 flatwise upon a board, or on the table, and about half of the cell 
 is cut ofi" as illustrated in fig. 8. The knife should be very warm 
 and sharp, or the ends of the cells would be made so ragged that 
 the bees would be apt to remove the comb entire and no cells 
 would b? made. 
 
120 
 
 THE BEEKEEPERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 FIG. 8. 
 
 Beaaons wby the depth of the cells should be reduced. 
 
 At this poin); it is in order to state the reasons why the cells 
 should be made so 
 shallow. When a col- 
 ony is seized with the 
 swarming fever the 
 first step taken is the 
 construction of queen- 
 cells. If the combs 
 are examined, eggs i 
 
 will be fdund in l^rge cells (cell-cups as they are called) . It will 
 be noticed that these cups are very shallow, say about a quarter 
 of an inch deep. If a convenient location for a queen-cell can- 
 not be found on ttie edge, or at the bottom of the combs, the 
 bees are compelled to cut away the walls of several cells in order 
 to get the proper amount of room at the base for the food and 
 for the foundation for a cell of suitable size in which to rear a 
 queen, , 
 
 Should the depth of the cells not be reduced as here advised, 
 the bees would be obliged to do it, ai^d but few queen-cells 
 would be made, especially if the comb containing the eggs is an 
 old piece. Instead of queens being reared, worker bees would 
 be produced, notwithstanding the unnatural position of the 
 comb. Thus it will be seen by the little help rendered the bees 
 in this way that it is a great inducement for them to construct 
 cells from each egg placed in the hive. 
 
 How to destroy eggs in the cells. 
 In order not to have the cells njade tod near together, the egg 
 in each alternate cell is destroyed,. Now this is not a difficult 
 thing to do by any means. I can destroy them as fast as any 
 one can count. It is done in this way : Take the piece of comb 
 containing the eggs in the left hand keeping those cells upwards 
 ' that were cut, and 
 
 insert the " scratch" 
 end of a common 
 match in each alter- 
 nate cell and rapidly 
 Fig. 9. twirl it between the 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 121 
 
 thumb and finger. This will effectually destroy the egg. Fig. 9 
 shows the cells and the eggs remaining after such an operation. 
 While the destruction of half of the eggs will give nearly suffi- 
 cient space for queen-cells, still a little more room is needed, 
 though to one unacquainted with this method of rearing queens, 
 it does not seem possible to obtain it, yet it can be done in this 
 maimer: If the row of queen-cells, illustrated in fig. 10, is ex- 
 amined, it will be seen that the piece of comb to which they are 
 attached is curving or convex in form. By placing it on in that 
 position, none of the queen-cells when finished will be joined 
 together, though the bees will build a thin partition wall of wax 
 between the cell*; yet when separating them none will be in- 
 jured if a little care is used in doing the work. 
 
 Fig. 10. Queen-cellt. 
 Size of frames to be used for cells. 
 The comb and cells illustrated in fig. 10 are the same as is 
 used' in a hive in which I keep a queen whose eggs are used 
 
122 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 wholly for cell-building ; the bottom half of the comb being re- 
 moved to give the proper amount of space for the row of queen- 
 cells. When I have used" such combs for cell-building, from six- 
 teen to thirty-six were placed in one hive. The latter number is 
 used only when one unusually large colony is taken for queen- 
 rearing. The former number is as many as are needed for an 
 ordinary-sized colony. 
 
 While it is quite convenient to use such combs for cell-build- 
 ing, I find that larger frames may be utilized to as equally good 
 advantage. To make room for the cells, pieces of comb three 
 inches long by two inches wide are cut out near the bottom of 
 the frame. Some fifteen or twenty such combs •re kept at hand 
 in our apiary for that special purpose. 
 
 How to &sten the strips of comb in position. 
 
 When the strips of comb are prepared and ready to be placed 
 in position, the cells that were noif cut axe dipped in the 'melted 
 beeswax and rosin, and immediately placed in position as shown 
 in fig. 10. The middle of the strip of comb should not be 
 pressed down hard, but the ends should, as this will make it still 
 more convex. There is such a thing, however, as overdoing the 
 curving part of it. One must use his judgment in the matter. 
 
 Some minor details. 
 
 The wax-mixture must not be too hot, nor should the comb 
 be dipped into it too far, as more wax would be used than is 
 necessary. If too much adheres to the comb it would be likely 
 to enter the cells and destroy the eggs in. the cells on the oppo- 
 site side from which the bees are to rear the queens. 
 
 Perhaps I may go into details too much if I say that the frame 
 of comb to which the strip of eggs is to be attached should be 
 inverted to better facilitate the operation. With but slight ex- 
 perience and practice one will soon learn how to do these things 
 as they should be done. It would require a large volume to ex- 
 plain all the minor details connected with beekeeping or even in 
 queen-rearing. 
 
 Finding a queen. 
 
 Many beekeepers write us that they would like to introduce 
 an Italian queen if they could only find the one in the colony 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 23 
 
 to which they wish lo introduce the new one. There are 
 several ways to find the queen in any colony. A black queen 
 in a black colony is the hardest to find (except a virgin 
 queen) and an Italian queen, even in a colony of golden Ital- 
 ian bees, is the easiest to find. The heavy, rich golden color 
 of a large, yellow queen is easily distinguished from the small 
 striped bees that compose the colony. 
 
 The following is the easiest way I know of for the novice 
 to proceed : Take a hive, nearly like the one the bees are in, 
 place it on the ground or on a large cloth (a horse blanket 
 will do) , then place a drone-and-queen trap at the entrance of 
 it and close ai?^ other holes the queen might pass through. 
 Now, all is ready ; smoke the bees, take out the frames one 
 at a time and examine them carefully for the queen as they 
 are removed ; if not found, shake the bees from the comb in 
 front of the empty hive on the ground and place each comb 
 in the hive as examined. Continue to do so until all the combs 
 are out and have been looked over. If the queen is not found, 
 close the hive and with the use of the smoker drive the bees 
 in through the metal on the trap and at the same time look 
 sharp for the queen. She will, most likely, be found in a very 
 few moments trying to pass through the metal. 
 
 I believe the above is the surest, quickest and easiest way 
 for the novice to find a queen. 
 
 This work must not be done in the middle of the day, un- 
 less the bees are gathering honey, or robbing may be induced. 
 Do it just about sunset. If too late to find the queen at 
 night she will be fouiid on the ti'ap the next morning. 
 
 One other method for finding a queen is to remove the 
 honey-board, place the cap on and drive the bees up into it 
 by gradually blowing smoke in at the entrance and drumming 
 on the hive five minutes or more. Turn the cap over and look 
 for the queen. If not found, place another cap on and repeat 
 the operation. 
 
 An old queen is rather slow about leaving the brood-nest, 
 even when the bees are well smoked, and sometimes it is nec- 
 essary to drive nearly all the bees out and even then remove 
 the combs to find her. 
 
 The expert is not obliged to use the above method to find 
 a queen. He merely blows smoke in at the entrance of the 
 hive to alarm the bees and in a few moments uncovers the 
 
124 THE BEEKEEI^ERS DIRECTORY. 
 
 ''IT' 
 
 frames, takes them out and examines each one until the queen 
 is found. It usually requires about as much time for him to 
 find a queen as it does to read these few lines descriptive of 
 the method. 
 
 The beekeeper who is bound to succeed will soon - find 
 plenty of methods to do all the required work about the api- 
 ary. If one method fails he tjies another. 
 
 A new plan for introduoing queens. 
 
 The immediate introduction of queens is desirable. Here 
 is a plan by which queens may be introduced at once when 
 received. As soon as the queen in the colony to which the 
 new queen is to be introduced is found, the shipping cage may 
 be placed in the hive, provided the food is so arranged that 
 the bees in the colony can remove it. The cage here illus- 
 trated is the one used for shipping queens by mail from the 
 Bay State Apiary. It is the combination mailing-and-ship- - 
 
 -A 
 
 = » e E _i T 2: :5 = = = = 
 
 /: 
 
 fCt'i-^^ 
 
 ^^r = HBeBEi^£^^ss5ss^^s 
 
 
 H«7ss'=^^g'«aaMH&3saHS3a 
 
 ^SBaaaHBBBBIBSes^' 
 C^BBBBBBB^^ 
 
 iai 
 
 sill,! 
 
 '/ 
 
 Fie. 11. 'Alley's combined shipping and introducing cage. 
 
 ping cage. If you will examine it you will notice that the 
 wire-cloth does not quite cover the food. To introduce aqueen 
 with this cage, all that is necessary is to remove the cover and 
 place it in the hive where the bees of the colony can get at 
 the food. They will soon remove it and the queen will walk 
 out successfully introduced. Have introduced hundreds in 
 this way without the loss of one. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 25 
 
 Be-queening after a swarm has issued. 
 
 More swarms than usual issued in the Bay State Apiary in 
 the season of 1888. Not caring to have so many oM stocks 
 queenless several weeks, all were requeened as soon as pos^ 
 sible after a swarm came out, but no attempt was made to do 
 so in less than two days after the swarm issued. The cells 
 were removed to nucleus colonies, and at the same time the 
 new queens were introduced by the method given above, and 
 not one queen was lost. Thus it will be seen that only two 
 days wei-e lost to the bees in brood-rearing. 
 
 It is not so important to re-queen immediately later in the 
 season as at the flrst of it. Our bees commenced early in 
 June to gather honey and swarms soon began to come out. 
 Well, now had any colony been left to rear a queen the 
 bees would at the end of four weeks have begun to diminish 
 in numbers and before the harvest ended there would be 
 hardly half as many bees in the hives as there were when they 
 swarmed. When a colony is promptly re-queened there would 
 be no great difference so far as numbers are concerned. 
 
 I am not a believer in contraction of the brood-chamber, 
 nor do I believe in taking away the queen from a colony for 
 any great length of time at any season of the year. Experi- 
 ence has taught me that a colony is always in the best condi- 
 tion that has a good queen, combs full of brood and plenty of 
 young bees. A hive barren of these important requisites is 
 nearly worthless, and unless a queen is soon introduced it 
 will be useless for any purpose. 
 
 Keep the colonies supplied with strong, healthy queens. If 
 a queen fails to keep the combs full of brood whether there 
 is forage or not, pinch her head and get another. It does not 
 pay to nurse up a colony haiving an unprolific queen. 
 
 Queenless colonies— How to treat them. 
 
 A colony that has been queenless four or five weeks or 
 longer should have a frame of caJpped brood given them at 
 the time the queen is introduced. Unless so treated, the col- 
 ony would be badly reduced in nu-mbers before any young 
 bees would hatch. By the time the young bees began to 
 emerge the combs should be full of brood. The colony then 
 
126 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 would increase very fast. It is more difficult to introduce a 
 queen to a colony that has been queenless a long time than it 
 is to one that has been in a queenless condition but a few 
 days. * 
 
 "When to supersede old queens. 
 No queen should be kept over two years. A queen may 
 have been the best in her second year, and in the third sea- 
 son prove to be worthless. Keep your colonies supplied with 
 young queens : that means success. 
 
 Queenless colonies— How to know them. 
 
 There is no way to know that a colony is queenless by out- 
 side appearances during the first few weeks after the loss of 
 the queen. The only way to know certainly is to open the' 
 hive and inake a thorough examination. If no eggs or brood 
 is found in the combs, that would not indicate to a certainty 
 that the colony does not have a queen of some kind. To 
 know certainly that the colony has no queen fertile or unfer- 
 tile, a frame of brood should be placed in the hive, and if 
 they are qneenless, an attempt will be made to rear one from 
 the brood given them, and that is the time to introduce a fer- 
 tile queen. 
 
 If a colony has been without a queen a long time, it is an 
 easy matter for the experienced beekeeper to know it. When 
 passing through the apiary, if a colony does not seem to be 
 working as well as the others tLere must be something wrong. 
 A queenless colon3^ will carry in more or less pollen, but it 
 does not work with that vigor that those colonies do that 
 have queens or those that have been without a queen but a 
 short time. Bees work just as well the first few weeks after 
 being deprived of their queen as they did before she was re- 
 moved. 
 
 How many frames to a hive. 
 It used to be thought that ten L. frames were about the 
 right number for a hive 14| inches wide. But now eight 
 frames, Langstroth size, are considered sufficient, or about 
 the right number. None of the hives in the Bay State Api- 
 ary have over eight Langstroth frames and several have but 
 seven frames, and I think I get the best results from the lat- 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 27 
 
 ter. Not only do they build up more quickly in the spring, 
 but they are somewhat on the system of contraction without 
 specially contracting any iiive for the purpose. I am positive 
 that the 7-frame hives winter better than those haying eight 
 or more frames. Then it has sometimes seemed to me that 
 there are more bees in a 7-frame hive than in those having a 
 larger number. Of course, it is understood that the width 
 of the brood-chamber should be reduced and but one and 
 one-half inches allowed to each frame. 
 
 ForminB nuclei. 
 
 For many years I used a one-frame nucleus in m_y queen- 
 rearing yards and with good success. A person who desires 
 10 rear liut a few queens will find sucli a colony all that is 
 needed. They can be made in this way : Take a full hive 
 of bees and make as many small single-comb colonies as there 
 are frames of brood, giving to each one an equal portion of the 
 bees. Give the hives plenty of ventilation and place them 
 in the cellar for three days and supply each with plenty of 
 water. At the »nd of two days, towards night, give the bees 
 a chance to fly and then introduce a cell or a queen. The 
 cell can be placed between the comb and side o( the hive at 
 the top, and no cutting of the combs need be done. Let the 
 bearing come against the base of the cell. 
 
 By confining the bees fort3'-eiglit hours, very few will re- 
 turn to the old locution when released. Wire cloth must be 
 used through which fresh air can reach the bees. As the nu- 
 cleus hives cannot be placed on the old stand, it is neces- 
 sary to give them a new location. 
 
 The hives should be made If inches wide inside ; otherwise 
 the same size of the hive from which the frames were taken. 
 
 Where shall partly filled sections be keptP also brood &ames filled 
 with honey P 
 
 There are at the present time (August, 1888) several hun- 
 dred of unfilled sections in our apiary. Just where to keep 
 them puzzled us for some time ; finally they were placed on 
 strong colonies and tiered up about six sections or cases 
 high, and protected from the weather. The bees in a strong 
 colony will preserve the combs from the moth and also keep 
 the uncapped honey from souring in at least 250 sections. 
 
128 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 Possibly, the bees may remove the honey from the sections ; 
 if they do, so much the better. Later in the: season, when 
 there is a good flow of honey, the cases can be replaced again 
 on the best colonies. The advantage of this plan is'this: ■ 
 If a set of sections is left on each hive the combs will be 
 badly discolored by the bees travelling over and clustering 
 upon them. By the way, I hardly think the combs are dis- 
 colored in that way, nor can I explain just what does give the 
 white combs a yellowish cast ; yet it does not seem to me that 
 the bees do it with their feet. When tiered up, as suggested 
 above, but few bees will be in any one of the sections at any 
 time. 
 
 Keeping brood-oombs. 
 
 "We often have quite a quantity of brood-combs filled with 
 new honey, but not all the cells capped. The uncapped 
 honey was likely to sour and the moth liable to attack the 
 combs on account of the pollen in some of the cells. I knew 
 of no better way to preserve them than to put the combs in 
 hives having ho bottoms and tiering them up on strong col- 
 onies, the same as advised to do wi^h the sections, say about 
 three combs high. These combs can be used later on either 
 to feed some of the stocks that have not quite honey enough 
 to winter, or to form new colonies. However used, they 
 must be protected from the moth and the hot weather during 
 dog-days. If the colony is a strong one to which the combs 
 are given, much of the uncapped honey will be capped, though 
 the bees will be in no hurry about doing it. 
 
 Drones— How to get them late in the season. 
 In my queen-rearing experience I have seen times when I 
 would willingly pay one dollar per hundred for some pure Ital- 
 ian drones ; in fact, I am quite sure I have been obliged to pay 
 out more than that sum to obtain them, counting the express 
 bills and car fare I have put out the money for. A good many 
 years ago, when about everybody lost their bees in winter and 
 when there were but few Italian bees in the country, I had but 
 one pure queen and a handful of bees to commence the sea- 
 son's work with. Well, it was up-hill work, but I managed to 
 do a heavy queen business that year, notwithstanding the dis- 
 couraging outlook in the early spring. That was the season 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 129 
 
 I had need for drones. It was necessary to keep the only breed- 
 ing queen in a ftill colony in order to obtain them as well as 
 eggs for queen cells ; but later in the season, when the old 
 lady had made up her mind that she had mothered all the 
 males she thought necessary for that year, she refused to de- 
 posit more eggs for that purpose. Well, I was in a bad fix ; 
 yet it was necessary to do something and that quickly, as the 
 supply of drones on hand would not last long and others must 
 be had, or queen-rearing must go to the walls for the season. 
 This prompted me to experiment. Though all the bee-books 
 and authors tell us that young queens will not lay drone eggs 
 the first year, I thought they could be made to do so. In this 
 opinion I was right. I had one colony that had just finished 
 a batch of queen cells, and as they saw the need of drones, 
 the idea struck me that the bees had as much to do with the 
 needs and desires of the colony as the queens. So I arranged 
 a plan by which I forced the young queen to deposit her first 
 eggs in drone cells. This is how I did it. The bees were re- 
 moved from one of the best colonies I had, all the combs, 
 save one, were placed in the hive again, the centre or middle 
 comb being left out, and a nice, clean fi-ame of drone-comb 
 was placed directly in the middle of the brood-chamber. I 
 then placed the queenless bees in the hive and gave them a 
 fine, young queen, one of the brightest, golden Italians I could 
 find in the hundreds of nucleus hives in myyard. In a fewdays 
 I opened the hive and drew out the frame of drone-comb and 
 to my surprise and great delight, I found that nearly every 
 cell ha,d an egg in it. This comb was then removed to a col- 
 ony rearing queens, and the drone eggs were welcomed and 
 nursed by the queenless bees. Another frame of drone-comb- 
 was placed in the hive with the young queen and more drone 
 eggs were obtained, and thus the supply was kept up for the 
 season with little or no trouble. 
 
 I believe it is generally understood that young queens will 
 not deposit drone eggs the first year of their existence. This 
 statement is handed down from one author to another, not 
 one of them knowing that such is not a fact. Very few authors 
 of bee-books have had experience covering all points in bee- 
 keeping ; hence the reason why wrong statements and quota- 
 tions are made and go the rounds. 
 
 One other experiment to obtain drone eggs resulted in a 
 
 17 
 
130 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 failure. I really supposed I had so arranged some combs that 
 only drones could be reared, but the little rascals were too 
 smart for me and my plans were upset. An old queen and 
 several quarts of bees were placed in a hive having six frames 
 containing drone-comb only, and I supposed, of course, that 
 the bees must rear drones and nothing else. I watched the 
 process day by day and had the satisfaction of seeing an egg 
 in most of the cells ; the little worm or grub was nursed, and 
 finally the cells were sealed over, but not as drone cells are 
 usually sealed with a projecting round cap ; the capping was 
 as smooth on the face of the comb as any worker brood, and 
 worker brood, I discovered later on, was all the cells con- 
 tained. Well, I was beaten, disappointed and disgusted. Just 
 then another idea struck me. I began to think I had hit up- 
 on a plan to rear worker bees as large as drone bees. The 
 workers hatched in due time, but they were no larger than 
 any other bees, and I had the labor for my pains, and only 
 the results of the experiment to pay me. Some one will say 
 "Why didn't the bees rear drones the same as in the first case 
 given ?" The reason is this : The bees used in the first experi- 
 ment had been queenless several days, while the bees used in 
 the last experiment had not been. Does the rea:der see the 
 point ? 
 
 No one can know these things without actual experience 
 and well conducted experiments. We must experiment or be 
 governed by theory. I like to go to the bottom of all such 
 things, and then when a statement is made the actual facts 
 are at hand to back them up. No author should make state- 
 ments that he is uncertain about. A standard work on any 
 subject should contain actual facts and those founded upon 
 experience. 
 
 How to know when robbing is going on in the apiary. 
 When robbing is going on in the yard I generally know 
 it without going into the apiary. An occasional stray bee 
 will come into the oflSce where I am writing. As soon as 
 discovered, the hive attacked is closed with a wire-screen to 
 give ample ventilation. If but few bees have got at it, I 
 manage to kill them with a piece of thin, wide board. 
 
 ■ After the bees once become engaged in robbing they are of 
 no use in the apia,ry, as they will continue to steal during the 
 
THE BEEKEEPERS* DIRECTORY, IJt 
 
 rest of their lives, and the sooner they are disposed of the 
 better. If much robbing is going on in the apiary, the thiev- 
 ing colonies should be found and removed to a new location, 
 at least, a mile away. By sprinkling flour on the robber 
 bees as they leave the hive being robbed, they can be easily 
 traced to the stand where they belong. I have often broken 
 up a colony which were robbing by blowing tobacco smoke 
 into their hive. When this is done, care must be taken that 
 the other colonies do not turn to and rob the one that has 
 been fumigated. 
 
 Care should be taken in season to prevent robbing in the 
 apiary. The most danger is during the first few days after 
 the honey flow ceases. The bees at once commence to look 
 around for the weak colonies, or any exposed sweets. Keep 
 all honey out of reach and smell of the bees. Remember 
 that a " stitch in time saves nine." 
 
 Should the bees get into the bee-house, the best plan is to 
 fasten them in. Let them out just before it is too dark for 
 them to find the hive. This will do more towards breaking 
 up robbing than any otRer plan I know of. A few bees will 
 return in the morning, but they will soon become discouraged 
 and give up. 
 
 Best time of day to work on bees. 
 
 In many of the operations described in beekeeping, I have 
 advised doing.the work just before dark. I will give some 
 of the reasons why that time of day is best to operate. 1 . 
 The bees are not as liable to rob as they are earlier in the 
 day. 2. If the combs are slightly broken, or a little honey 
 is dropped upon the ground, it will not set the bees to rob- 
 bing as it would earlier in the day, as the disturbed colony 
 Would be in condition the next morning to defend their combs. 
 3. It is well known that bees keep very quiet in the dark, A 
 colony made queenless in season to miss her just before dark 
 would keep quiet until daylight returns, when they will make 
 a search for her. But after being queenless all night they 
 soon become reconciled and quickly quiet down. No matter 
 what the operation is, the bees need time to recover from it, 
 and when they have the night before them there is no loss of 
 time. 
 
1,2 THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 How to preserve a queen several days after she is received by mail. 
 Many of those who purchase queens do not seem to know 
 how to keep them until they can be introduced. If the queen 
 is received in good condition the cage may be placed over a 
 colony (one having no queen is best) in this way : Make an 
 inch hole in the honey-board or arrange it in any way so that 
 the part of the cage having the queen in can be so placed 
 that the bees in the colony can get at it and feed her through 
 the meshes of the wire cloth. Not only will the bees feed the 
 queen, but she will remain perfectly quiet all the time while 
 thus confined. Place the cage on a queenless colony if one 
 is in the apiary. 
 
 Bee Periodicals published in America. 
 
 There are no less than nine publications in America devot- 
 ed partly or wholly to apiculture. TWo are published in Can- 
 ada and seven in the United States. 
 
 Of those published in Canada, D. A. Jones & Co. issue the 
 
 ^^ Canadian See Journal." This is a weekly and its corps 
 
 of writers are able and well known in the apieultural world. 
 
 The other Canadian publication, " The Canadian Honey 
 Producer" is a monthly and is edited by E. F. Holterman of 
 Brantford. Mr. Holterman was formerly one of the best cor- 
 respondents the ApicuUurist had. The *'■ Canadian Honey 
 Producer" is ably edited and should meet with success. 
 
 In the United States we have The Beekeepers' Advance, ed- 
 ited and published monthly by J. B. Mason of Mechanics 
 Falls, Maine. ''The Bee-Hive," by E. H. Cook of Andover, 
 Conn, is also a monthly. Then we have the " Queen Breed- 
 ers' Journal" by E. L. Pratt of Marlboro, Mass. This is a 
 new publication and comes monthly. It is the smartest of 
 the new papers devoted to bee culture. 
 
 "TAe Beekeepers' Review" is in its second year and is pub- 
 lished monthly. Its editor is W. Z. Hutchinson, of Flint, 
 Mich. Brother H. knows how to keep bees and how to edit 
 a paper. Should say the enterprise is in a condition to suc- 
 ceed. 
 
THE beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 1 33 
 
 Qleanings in Bee Culture. 
 
 I hardly need introduce the editor of this last publication 
 to the reader. Mr. A. I. Root and his paper are as well 
 known to all beekeepers as to me. Brother Root was invited 
 to give a brief history of '^Gleanings" for this work. As it 
 is so well and' nicely told by Mr. Ernest Root, son of A. I. 
 Root, we.give it in full. 
 
 "The history of Gleanings is briefly told, because its career 
 is very similar to other periodicals which have had a fair 
 measure of success in their line. It was established in 1873 
 as a quarterly, and edited by A. I. Root. No sooner was the 
 first issue out when it became evident from the manner in 
 which it took that it should be made into a monthly. In the 
 following February the second number was issued. It con- 
 tinued as a monthly until the year 1882, at which time the 
 Juvenile Gleanings was issued the fifteenth of every month. 
 This child continued to grow until it rivalled its parent in 
 size, when in January, 1884, it was merged into the semi- 
 monthly Gleanings in Bee Culture, the juvenile gleanings be- 
 ing only a department in the issue of the middle of every 
 month. In 1875, it had a subscription list of 1200 ; in 1879, 
 4368 ; in 1882, 5445. This last has steadily grown until at 
 the present time there are very nearly 9,000 subscribers. In 
 1885, in consequence of the rush of editorial work as well as 
 the usual rush of business, younger blood in the person of E. 
 R. Root, who left school for the purpose, was called to assist. 
 Just at this time Mr. Root, Jr., selects the matter as well as 
 answers considerable of the' correspondence, the senior edi- 
 tor answering most of the correspondence and keeping a hand 
 en the throttle valve. 
 
 Some of the distinctive peculiarities of Gleanings are, first, 
 it seeks to avoid all discussion which will in any way give pain 
 to one or the other of the parties engaged in the discussion. 
 It has numerous departments and is well illustrated, the cuts 
 for a single issue costing from ten to twenty dollars on an av- 
 erage." 
 
 The American Bee Journal. 
 The American Bee Journal was the first one to appear in 
 the interest of beekeepers. Not being well informed regard- 
 
134 
 
 THK beekeepers' DIRECTORY. 
 
 ing its history, Brother Newman was requested to furnish the 
 facts. They are as follows : 
 
 The American Bee Journal was started by the late Samuel 
 Wagner in January, 1861, as a monthly, at Philadelphia, Pa., 
 and that was the first periodical ever issued in America devot- 
 ed to bee culture. It was suspended at the end of that year 
 on account of the civil war, but its publication was resumed 
 in July, 1866, at Washington, D. C, after much unavoidable 
 delay. 
 
 On June 15, 1866, just two weeks before the resumption 
 just mentioned, the Rev. E. Van Slyke began the publication 
 of the American Bee Gazette in New York. At the end of 
 that year, Mr. Samuel Wagner purchased the Gazette, and 
 united the two periodicals, — only some six numbers of the 
 Gazette having been issued. 
 
 Mr. Samuel Wagner died on Feb. 17, 1872, and his son 
 George S. Wagner continued the publication until the end of 
 1872, when he transferred it to the Rev. W. F. Clarke, who 
 moved it to Chicago, where he edited and published it during 
 the year 1873. 
 
 In December of that year, the present editor, Thomas G-. 
 Newman, purchased the interest of Mr. Clarke in its transfer 
 from Mr. Wagner, and also purchased Mr. Wagner's entire 
 interest in it, becoming its sole owner. It was issued monthly 
 until December, 1880, when it was changed to a weekly. For 
 eight years it has been issued weekly, and is now published 
 at $1.00 a year. It is now in its twenty-fifth year of publica- 
 tion, and the sixteenth year since it came into the hands of 
 its present editor and publisher. * 
 
 The National Bee Journal was purchased in 1874 and con- 
 solidated with the American Bee Journal. 
 
 The American Apioultnriat. 
 
 This publication was established in 1883, by Silas M. 
 Locke of Salem, Mass. After it had run some three years, 
 Mr. Locke's health failed, and he was obliged to dispose of 
 the paper. Since that time, the present manager has pub- 
 lished it regularly. The Apicdltdrist is issued monthly at 
 Wenham, Mass. Price 75 cents per annum. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Advantages of leaving 
 sections on hives, . . . 110 
 
 Age at which queen will 
 be superseded, . . 116, 126 
 
 Age of queen at Jlme of 
 issuing of first swarm, . 116 
 
 A new plan for introduc- 
 ing queens, 124 
 
 Alley's combination and 
 shipping cage, .... 124 
 
 American Apiculturist, . 134 
 
 American Bee Gazette, . 134 
 
 American Bee Journal, . . 133 
 
 Artificial increase of the 
 
 apiary, 98 
 
 Bay State section-case, 
 
 description of, . . . . 107 
 
 Bee-hives, 102 
 
 Beekeeper's Review, . . . 132 
 Bee publications, .... 132 
 Best plan to keep honey 
 
 until sold, ..'.... 89 
 Best time to attach the 
 
 drone-and-queen trap 
 
 to the hive 95 
 
 Best time to search for 
 
 the queen, 123 
 
 Best time to work with 
 
 bees, 131 
 
 Brood-chamber, how 
 
 constructed 10^ 
 
 Brood-combs, care of, . . 128 
 
 Brood-combs, filled 
 
 with honey, care of, . 
 Brood in the sections, . 
 
 Canadian Bee Journal, . 
 
 Canadian Honey Produ- 
 cer, 
 
 Can swarming be pre- 
 vented? 
 
 Care of bees during 
 winter, 
 
 Cell-cups, how started, . 
 ; Cleansing fiight in winter, 
 
 Clipping queens' wings, 85, 
 
 Clipping queens' wings, 
 points of objection, . 
 
 Conditions necessary to 
 construct queen-cells, 
 
 Consumption of food by 
 hibernating colonies, . 
 
 Contrasting entrance to 
 promote brood-rear- 
 ing 
 
 Contraction of hives to 
 winter status, . . . 
 
 Contracting the brood 
 chamber when work- 
 ing for section honey. 
 
 Contracting the en- 
 trance to retain heat. 
 
 Combs and eggs for ceE 
 building, how pre- 
 pared 
 
 (135) 
 
 127 
 110 
 
 132 
 
 132 
 90 
 
 75, 78 
 . 115 
 . 80 
 , 86, 90 
 
 . 91 
 
 . 114 
 
 . 74 
 
 . 80 
 
 . 76 
 
 . 108 
 
 . 80 
 
 118 
 
136 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Crating honey, what 
 method to adopt, . . 
 
 Destroying drones, . . 
 
 Differing opinions re- 
 specting cellar winter- 
 ing, 
 
 Disposition of honey, . 
 
 Dividing swarms, when 
 two or more cluster 
 together, 
 
 Doolittle, G. M., essay 
 by, on preparing bees 
 for harvest, .... 
 
 Double-wall hive best 
 for wintering, . . . 
 
 Dr. Tinker's hive, . . 
 
 Dr. Tinker's honey 
 board, 
 
 Drone-and-queen trap, 
 how constructed, . . 
 
 Drone-and-queen trap, 
 description of, . . . 
 
 Drones, how to produce 
 late in the season, . . 
 
 Drones, when reared, . 
 
 Drones, when required 
 in the apiary, . . . 
 
 Easy method for the in- 
 experienced for rear- 
 ing queens, .... 
 
 Eaton, Frank A., section 
 case illustrated, . . 
 
 Entrance to hive, size 
 of, 
 
 Fastening foundation 
 in frames, method 
 adopted, .... 
 
 Fastening foundation In 
 110 frames and sections, . . 100 
 Fastening foundation in 
 
 93 sections, . ■ 101 
 
 Feeding, a guard against 
 
 robbing; 84 
 
 82 Forming nucleus colo- 
 
 112 nies r . 118 
 
 Frames, depth of, ... 103 
 Frames, how many to a 
 97 hive? 126 
 
 G. F. Robbins', method 
 82 of obtaining section 
 
 honey, 86 
 
 77 Gleanings in Bee Culture, . 133 
 104 
 
 Hay cushions best for 
 
 106 packing, 79 
 
 Hibernation, 73 
 
 93 Hibernation, how se- 
 cured 74 
 
 93 Hiving swarms without 
 
 trap 97 
 
 128 Hive, size of entrance to, . 103 
 
 94 Hives, tiering sections 
 
 on, 104 
 
 94 Honey, care of, in the 
 
 honey house, .... 89 
 Honey house,* descrip- 
 
 ' tion of, 89 
 
 112 Honey sources 86 
 
 Honey, where to find a 
 
 107 market, 112 
 
 Honey, where to keep 
 
 103 when taken from the 
 
 hive, 112 
 
 How " home" is located 
 by the young bee up- 
 
 100 on first flight, .... 83 
 
INDEX. 
 
 137 
 
 How to destroy eggs in 
 cells 120 
 
 How to fasten strips of 
 comb (in cell-build- 
 ing) in position, . . . 122 
 
 How to find a queen, . 122, 123 
 
 How to know that a col- 
 ony has a good queen, . 85 
 
 How to make cell-buUd- 
 ing a success, .... 115 
 
 How to manage an api- 
 ary when one has col- 
 onies enough, .... 99 
 
 How to manage the trap 
 
 when a swarm issues, . 95 
 
 How to prepare bees for 
 the harvest, 85 
 
 How to prepare food for 
 bees, after taking from 
 cellar, 84 
 
 How to preserve a queen 
 several days after be- 
 ing received by mail, . . 132 
 
 Immediate introdnctiou 
 of queens desirable, . .124 
 
 Langstroth hive, .... 75 
 
 Nonpareil bee-hive, il- 
 lustrated . . 105 
 
 Nuclei, forming of, . 118, 127 
 
 cell-building, ' . . . . 
 
 , 118 
 
 Method of packing, . . 
 
 79 
 
 Mouldy combs, ... 
 
 . 78 
 
 Natural stores the best 
 
 
 winter food, .... 
 
 . 72 
 
 New Bay State hive, 
 
 . 77 
 
 Nonpareil bee hive* de- 
 
 
 scription of, .... 
 
 . 104 
 
 Nonpateil hive, how 
 
 
 constructed, . . • 
 
 . 104 
 
 One-piece sections ila. 
 four-piece sections, . 
 
 Ill 
 
 Packing and Its disad- 
 vantages, 78 
 
 Packing over the combs, . 79 
 
 Partly filled sectiolis, 
 
 care of, 127 
 
 Plan to be pursued when 
 rearing queens on a 
 large scale, 119 
 
 Practical hints concern- 
 ing successful manage- 
 ment of apiaiy, .... 71 
 
 Practical method of re- 
 versing 92 
 
 Preparing bees for har- 
 vest, essay on, by G. 
 M. Doolittle, .... 82 
 
 Preparing the combs and 
 ■ eggs for cell-building, . U8 
 
 Preparing to start 
 queen-cells, 113 
 
 Preparation for winter, . 75, 18 
 
 Prevention of swarm- 
 ing, an impossibility, . . 89 
 
 Prevention Ot swarming 
 discussion concerning, . 89 
 
 Production of comb 
 honey, 81 
 
 Queen Breeders' Jour- 
 nal, ... 132 
 
 Queen-cells illustrated, . . 121 
 
 Queenless colonies, how 
 recognized, 126 
 
138 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Queealess colonies, how 
 
 to treat them 126 
 
 Queeu- rearing 112 
 
 Searing .queens in fall 
 
 colonies during the 
 
 honey harvest, .... 116 
 Bearing queens in full 
 
 colonies without de- 
 priving the bees of 
 
 their qutfen, 113 
 
 Removing the packing 
 
 in spring, 80 
 
 Re-queening after the 
 
 issuing of a swarm, . . 125 
 Requisites for good 
 
 work at fastening 
 
 foundations in frames 
 
 or sections, 100 
 
 Reversing to prevent 
 
 swarming, 91 
 
 Robbing, how known, . . 130 
 Robbing, how to guard 
 
 against, 84 
 
 Robbins, G. F., method 
 
 of putting bees on, 
 
 and getting bees out 
 
 of sections 86 
 
 Russell, P. R., essay by, 
 
 on wintering bees, , . 75 
 
 Sections, 108, 111 
 
 Section cases, 106 
 
 Section case of Frank 
 A. Eaton, described, . . 106 
 
 Sections, fastening foun- 
 dation in, 101 
 
 Section honey, method 
 of obtaining, by G. F. 
 Robbins, 86 
 
 Sections, how many 
 sides open Ill 
 
 Section-manufacturing, 
 competition in Ill 
 
 Sections, when to put 
 on, 86 
 
 Sections, when to re- 
 move, 87 
 
 Selecting eggs for cells, . 119 
 
 Setting out of bees, how 
 accomplished 82 
 
 Shading the hives in 
 winter, 80 
 
 ' Size of frame to be used 
 
 for cells 121 
 
 Spreading brood 86 
 
 Spring dwindling, ... 82 
 
 Spring dwindling, how 
 traced 73 
 
 Spring feeding 84 
 
 Spring packing, prefera- 
 ble to winter 78 
 
 Standing, or closed-end 
 frames 77 
 
 Starting queen-cells, . . 113 
 
 Stores necessary for 
 winter, 76 
 
 Success In wintering, 
 necessary require- 
 ments of .... 71, 7S 
 
 Suctiessfiil management 
 of apiary, practical 
 hints concerhing, ... 71 
 
 Sugar syrup for winter 
 stores, 72 
 
 Surplus arrangements, 
 conditions concei-ning, . 86 
 
 Swarm controllers, ... 92 
 
 Swarming, how pre- 
 vented a second time, . 90 
 
Swarming impulse, best 
 condition to induce 
 construction of queen- 
 cells, 
 
 Taking bees from the 
 cellar, 
 
 Temperature of cellars 
 for wintering bees, . 
 
 The Bee Hive 
 
 The Beekeeper's Ad- 
 vance, 
 
 The trap as a drone- 
 catcher, 
 
 Tiering sections, . . . 
 
 Tiering sections on 
 hives 
 
 -Tinker, Dr. G. L., es- 
 say by, on wintering 
 bees-, ...... 
 
 To get bees out of sec- 
 tions, method pur- 
 sued, 
 
 Too many drcJues, a 
 burden to the apiary, . 
 
 Use of chaff, sawdust, 
 etc., for winter pro- 
 tection, 
 
 Ventilation in Winter, . 
 Ventilation, lending ob- 
 ject of, 
 
 What constitdtes a good 
 bee-hive? . . . . 
 
 What to do When a col- 
 ony casts a swarm, . 
 
 INDEX. 139 
 
 What to do when swarm 
 is returned to the 
 
 hive 96 
 
 114 When a swarm issues, 
 
 how to manage, ... 90 
 „„ When and how to pack 
 
 bees for winter 76. 
 
 _. When to add another 
 . „„ set of sections to the 
 
 hives, 110 
 
 .„„ When to ueverse brood- 
 combs, 91 
 
 g. When to reverse sec- 
 
 j^jg tlons, 110 
 
 When to supersede 
 
 -J,. queens, 126 
 
 When to unpack bees, . 77 
 Why depth of cells 
 „, should be reduced In 
 preparation for cell 
 
 building, 120 
 
 gg Wing clipping, .... 90 
 
 Winter problem, or ho^f 
 „, to winter bees, ... 71 
 Winter ventilation for 
 
 hives 76 
 
 Wintering bees, essay 
 74 on, by P. R. Russell, . . 7S 
 -0 Wintering bees, essay 
 on, by Dr. G. L. Tin' 
 
 yg ker 17 
 
 Wintering bees in cellar, 74, 81 
 Wintering in the Bay 
 100 State apiary, ... 77, 78 
 
 Wintering bees on sUm- 
 117 mer stands 76, li 
 
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