*V .•SVn*>\A^^' F CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 924 105 349 660 This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation witli Cornell University Libraries, 2007. You may use and print this copy in limited quantity for your personal purposes, but may not distribute or provide access to it (or modified or partial versions of it) for revenue-generating or other commercial purposes. HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO ^lue JiJantsTi &onqnzst to the ^vzstnt ^xme 1530X890 PORTRAITS AND BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ITS PROMINENT PEOPLE BY HELEN HAINES NEW YORK NEW MEXICO HISTORICAL PUBLISHING CO. 1891 F His 4^^'^99Z. PREFACE. To detail the evolution and development of an indi- vidual State or Territory in a comprehensive history of the United States, and present it in a j)opular form, is of necessity impossible, the extent of ground covered render- ing condensation unavoidable. Yet such detail is abso- lutely necessary to a proper understanding of the subject treated, as a mere succession of dates and statistics leaves no lasting impression on the general reader. It has been and still is a standing reproach to Americans that they know very little of the history of their own country ; probably were it placed before them in a less complex form, that reproach would be no longer valid. In the present volume the object has been to present in a popular form a simple and direct narrative of the history of New Mexico, from the discovery and conquest by the Spaniards to the present time. No original research has been possible, but the principal translations and modern authorities consulted are appended, and it is hoped that the book may prove of interest in that it deals with one of the most remarkable and least known of our Western Territories. Acknowledgments are chiefly due to G. E. Yerger for the biographical matter of this volume. He has worked diligently in the collection and preparation of same. H. H. The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924105349660 CONTENTS, PAGE Introductory, . 1 CHAPTER I. THE PUEBLO ABOEIGINES. Derivation of the Name Pueblo — Aztec or Toltec Origin of this People — The Ancient Migrations — Toltec Civilization — Why the Aztecs left Aztlan — Their Wanderings — The Omen of the Eagle — The Name New Mexico — Similarity of Architecture in Old and New Mexicos — Letter of Melchior Diaz — Castaneda's Account— Modern Pueblos — System of Government — Religious Observances — You-pel-lay or Green Corn Dance — Pueblo Legend of Montezuma — Moqui and Navajo Legends — Pueblo Fetiches— Dissimi- larity of Language among the Pueblos — Their Industry and Wealth — Ruins of Pueblos — Pecos — Old Zuni — Wege-gi — Pueblo Bonito — Penasco Blanco — Cause of Villages Deserted — Wager of Battle — Historic Interest of the Ruins, ... . . 5 CHAPTER II. THE EXPEDITION OP GUZMAN AND THE WANDERINGS OP CABECA DE VACA. 1530-1536. The Land of Cibola— Nuno de Guzman— Tales of Wealth— Guzman's Expedition — Difficulties of the March — Colonization of Culiacan— Explora tion of Cibola Abandoned — Death of Guzman — Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca— His Descent — Expedition of Narvaez— Narvaez in Florida — Dangers and Hardships — The Building of the Boats — Vaca and his Comrades Cast Ashore — Their Sufferings— Cast Ashore a Second Time— The Isle of Mal- hado — Famine and Pestilence — The Spaniards Practice Medicine — Re- duced to Slavery — Escape of Oviedo-^His Return — Vaca meets Compan- ions in Misfortune— Slavery— Escape— Wanderings of Vaca and his Com- rades—Received as Divinities by the Natives— Success in Healing— Progress through New Mexico— News of the Spaniards— Further Tidings— On the River Petatlan — Meeting with Diego Alcarez — Quarrel between Alcarez and Vaca— Vaca Reaches Culiacan— Pacifies the Natives— Arrives at San Miguel— Compostella — Mexico— Fate of his Companions— Vaca Sails for Spain— His Further Misfortunes in the New World— Route of Vaca in New Mexico, . . 32 CHAPTER III. PRIAB NIZA AND THE EXPEDITION OP COBONADO. 1537-1542. Tales of Golden Cibola— Vasquez de Coronado— Marcos de Niza— His Departure for Cibola— Niza's Journey— Reception by the Natives— Vi CONTENTS. Estevanico's Death-Nlza takes Possession of the Country— His Return— Zaldivar and Diaz sent to Verify his Report-Exaggerations of Friar Niza— Expedition Organized-Coronado made Captain-General-Enthusi- asm at Mexico-Departure of Expedition-The March-Halt at Chametla- Return of Zaldivar and Diaz- Army Arrives at Culiacan-Coronado Ad- vances with a small Escort-Chlchilticale-Colorado Chiquito-First Sight of Cibola-Spaniards Assault the Town— Cibola Taken-Country Sub- dued-Return of Niza-Arrival of Main Army-Exploring Parties— Moqui— Grand Canon— Tignex—" EI Turco "—Spaniards at Tiguex— Re- volt— Tig-uex Subdued— Cicuye-On the Buffalo Plains— Army Returns to Tiguex — Coronado at Quivira — Disappointment — Treachery of "El Turco "—Exploring Parties— Yuqueyunque— Taos— Socorro— Coronado's Return— General Disappointment— Winter of 1541— Coronado Injured- Expedition Abandoned— Return of Coronado to Mexico— Resumes his Duties as Governor— Route of Coronado's Expedition, . 43; CHAPTER IV. EXPEDITIONS OF EUIZ AND E8PBJ0. 1543-1595. Interim of Forty Years— Augustin Ruiz— His Religious Zeal— Depart- ure of Ruiz and His Companions— Their Journey— Puera— Return of the Soldiers— Death of Fray Juan— Death of Fray Francisco— Padre Ruiz at Galisteo— His Death— Reported at Mexico— Espejo's Expedition Organ- ized—Leaves San Bartolome— Journey down theConchos— The Jumanas — Their Religion— Along the Rio Grande— The Isleta Pueblos— Account of the People— The Teguas Nation— Puera— Further Explorations Resolved On— The Province of Magrias— Quirix— Cunames — The Pueblos of Jemez— Zuni — The Mexican Indians — Some of the Party Return — Espejo Journeys- Westward — Visits Moqui— His Reception — Silver Mines — Return to Zuni — The Province of Queres — Ubates — Tanos — Hostility of the Tanos Nation— Espejo Resolves to Return— Down the Pecos- Arrival at San Bartolome — Espejo's Report — Fresh Interest in New Mexico — -Royal Order — Offers to Conquer and Colonize the Province — Applications of Martin and Espejo — Of Vargas and Oolmenares — TJrdinola — Expedition of Castano de Sosa — Route, and Pueblos Visited — Sosa's Arrest — Gold-Hunters under Bonilla and Humanas — Their Fate, .... . 62 CHAPTER V. OSATB's conquest and the COLONIZATION OP NEW MEXICO. 1595-1680. Don Juan de Onate— Makes Application for the Conquest of New Mexico— Granted by Viceroy Velasco— Terms of the Contract— Royal Grant of 1602— Preparations and Delay— Officers of Onate's Expedition — Departure of the Army— On the Rio Grande— Hospitably Received- Pueblos Visited— Socorro— Abo— Cia— The Indians Give in their Allegi- CONTENTS. Vll PAGE ance — Pueblo of San Juan made Headquarters of the Colony — Pueblos of Taos, Picoris, and San Ildefonso Visited — Founding of the City of La Santa Pe de San Francisco — Arrival of the Colonists— Junta at San Juan — Various Exploring Parties — Discontent at Acoma — Plot to Murder Onate — His Escape — Zaldivar Arrives- at Acoma — The Indian Attack— The Con- flict — Spaniards Defeated — Tidings Brought to San Juan — Preparations to Reduce Acoma — The Expedition Spts Out — Rejoicing at Acoma — The Spaniards Arrive— The Assault — The Penol Gained— The Battle— Acoma Conquered — Increase of Spanish Pov^er in Nev\r Mexico — :Brief Records of the Colony — Onate on the Plains — Various Exploring Parties — 1606 to 1680 — Governors — Extension of Christianity — Severe Ecclesiastical Regulations — Discontent of the Indians — Various Attempts at Revolt — Conspiracies Dis- covered and Punisbed — The Gathering of the Storm, . . 73 CHAPTER VI. THE PUEBLO BEVOLUTION. 1680-1691. Spread of the Conspiracy — Pope's Zeal — His Supernatural Pretensions — Precautions — The Plot Revealed— Premature Outbreak— Massacres— Con- sternation at Santa Fe — Conflicts and Skirmishes— Siege of Santa Fe— The Spaniards Evacuate the City— Their March— At Isleta— Destitution of the Spaniards— Father Ayeta's Supplies— The Winter at San Lorenzo— Suflier- ing of Exiles— Martyrdom of the Friars— The Pueblo Government— Ex- cesses and Rejoicings — Pope's Rule — His Tyranny and Death — Civil War and Discord— Preparations to Regain New Mexico — Otermin Enters the Province — His Force— The March— Desolation Along the Route — Isleta Reached— The Spaniards Welcomed— Reconnoitering Party Under Men- doza— Pueblos Hostile— At Cochiti— Indian Strategy— Meudoza Returns- Distress of the Army— Return Resolved on— Otermin's Report— 1683 to 1684— Appointment of Cruzate— Abortive Attempts to Reconquer New Mexico — Diego de Vargas made Governor of the Province, 84 CHAPTER VII. THE BECONQDEST OF NEW MEXICO. 1691-1700. Vargas at El Paso— His New Mexican Expedition— Arrives at Santa Fe— Offers of Peace— Santa Pe Surrenders— Submission of Adjacent Towns- Don Luis Tupatu— Vargas Enters the Interior— Visits Pecos— Taos— Re- turns to Santa Fe— His Letter to the Viceroy— Vargas Marches to Santo Domingo— Submission of Jemez— Rear-Guard Returns to El Paso— Don Diego Advances to Acoma— Submission of Acoma— The Spaniards March to Zuni— Vargas at Moqui— Hostility of the Natives— The Moqui Towns Submit— The Return March— Socorro— El Paso— End of Vargas's First Campaign— Preparations for the Second Expedition— The March— Hostile Attitude of the Natives— The Spaniards Enter Santa Fe— The Tanos Refuse 95 yiii CONTENTS. p to Vacate Sauta Fe- Assault by the Spaniards-Surrender of Santa F6- Punishment of the Rebels-Early Part of 1694-Continued Hostilities- Spaniards Repulsed at San Ildefonso-Arrival of Colonists-Reduction of Jemez-Of San Ildefonso-The Reconquest Coinplete-1694 to lb9b- Attempted Revolt-Peace Restored-Appointment of Cubero-Vargas Imprisoned -His Return to Mexico -End of the Seventeenth Cen- tury, . . • • • ■ CHAPTER VIII. THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. 1700-1800. Preliminary Remarks— Vargas Reappointed Governor— His Death— The Duke of Albuquerque— Rule of Governor Hurtado— Governor Cubero y Valdez— Administration of Governor Villasenor— Ecclesiastical Rec- ords—The Duke of Lenares— Governor Mogollon's Rule— Indian Ques- tions—Don Felix Martinez— Appointment of Governor Bustamente— Fears of French Encroachment— Governor Gruzat y Gongora— The First For- eigners Enter Santa Fg— Administration of Governor Codallos— The French in New Mexico— Comanche Campaigns— Governor Cachupin— Governor del Valle— Governor Urrisola— Trouble with the Comanches— Governor Cachupin's Second Term— Explorations into Colorado— Flood at Santa Fe— Suggestions for the Defense of the Province— Governor Navarro— Rule of Governor Anza— His Indian Campaigns— The Moquls— Comanches Defeated at Rabbit Ear— French and Spanish Smuggling— Governor Chacon— New Mexico at the Close of the Eighteenth Century— Imports and Exports —Annual Pair at Taos— Trader's Currency— Schedule of Prices— Description of Santa Fe— Population— Government— Civil and Social State, . . ... . ... 110 CHAPTER IX. THE PINAL TEAKS OP SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 1800-1822. Foreign Possessions in North America at the Beginning of the Nineteenth Century— Population and Extent of the United States — The Louisiana Purchase— Expeditions of Lewis, Clark, and Pike — Fernando Chacon, Governor of New Mexico — Administration of Governor Alencaster — Fears of American Invasion — Expedition of Facundo Melgares — Spanish Disci- pline — Success of Melgare's Expedition — Lieutenant Pike's Second Expedi- tion — His Instructions — Departure — Among the Rockies — Pike's Peak — The Search for Red River — Christmas Day, 1806 — Cold and Starvation — The Fort on Rio del Norte — Departure of Dr. Robinson — Spanish Visitors — Pike's Mistake — Arrival of Spanish Troops — " This is the Rio del Norte " — Americans taken to Santa Fe— The Journey — At the Capital — Pike's Expla- nations — "Remember Alencaster in Peace or War" — Meeting with Dr. Robinson— Escorted South by Lieutenant Melgares — The Americans at CONTENTS. IX Cliihuahua— Return to the United States — Arrival at Natchitoclies — Pike's Services Aclcnowledged— His Book-^Deatli at Toronto — Rule of. Governor Manrique— Departure of Don Pedro Pino for tlie Spanish Cortes— His Re- quests — Governor Mainez— Governor Allande— Administration of Mel- gares — Boundary Question Settled — Iturbide's Triumph — Facundo Mel- gares, Political Chief, .... . . . . 1 33 CHAPTER X. THE SANTA PB TRADE. Origin of the Santa Fe Trade — Journey of Baptiste Lalande — Adven- tures of James Pursley — His Discovery — Pursley at Santa Fe — Return of Lieutenant Pike — Venture of McKnight, Beard, and Chambers — Their Misfortunes — Experience of Choteau and De Mun — First Traders — Glenn Becknell — The Coopers — Becknell's Second Trip — A Terrible Experience — Real Commencement of the Santa Fe Trade— Spanish Policy — Mexican ludustries — Exorbitant Prices — Introduction of Wagons— Relative Merits of Horses, Mules, and Oxen — Independence, Missouri — " All Sorts and Conditions of Men " — Organizing a Caravan — " A Santa Fe Assortment " — The Departure — Council Grove — The Journey — Mapeuvers of the Wagons — Nearing Santa Fe — "Runners" — "La Entrada de la Cara- vana ! " — At the Custom-House — Derechos de Arancel — The Return Trip — Proposed Routes — Tlie Trail — Kit Carson — Some Early Traders — In- dian Attacks — An Expensive Visit — Murder of McNees and Monroe — The Consequences — Repeated Outrages — Government Escorts — Effect of the Texan Expeditions — Ports Closed — Table of the Santa Fe Trade from 1833-43 — Re-establishment of the Trade — Growth and Prosperity — Rail- road «». Caravan, . .137 CHAPTER XL TWENTY-POUB YEARS OP MEXICAN RULE. 1832-1846. Rapid Succession of Political Chiefs — Chavez, Conde, Viscara, Vaca — Changes in the Province — Narbona, Armijo, Chavez, Political Chiefs — Ex- pulsion of the Cachupines — The " Old Placers " — Bent's Fort — Abreu and Chavez, Political Chiefs— Appointment of Albino Perez — General Tax Law — Rebellion of 1837— " Plan " of the Insurgents— Their Success — Murder of Perez — Of Santiago Abreu and Others — The Insurgents at Santa Fe— Armijo's Couuter-Revolution — The Rebellion Crushed— Ar- mijo's Administration — The ' ' New Placers "—Early Settlers— First Texan Santa Fe Expedition — New Mexico under Arms — Purpose of the Expedi- tion — The March — The Expedition Separates — Small Advance Party — At Anton Cliico— Captivity — Howland and Baker Shot — Capture of Cook's Party— Surrender of tlie Main Body — The Prisoners Taken to Mexico- Rejoicing in New Mexico — A Second Texan Expedition Reported— New X COiS"TEWTS. - ' PAGE Mexican Preparations— Chavez Murdered by McDaniel's Party— Warfiold's Raid on Mora— Snively's Mishaps— Return of the Texans— Effects of the Expeditions — Martinez — Chavez — Armijo's Rule, .... 155 CHAPTER XII.- THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF NEW MEXICO. 1846-1847. Causes of the War With Mexico— Texan Troubles— Hostilities Begun —American Preparations— General Kearney — A Military Incident — Kear- ney's Instructions — Arrangment of his Forces— Officers Commanding —Departure of the First Division— The March— Mission of James Ma- goffin — Private Negotiations — Advance of the Army — At Las Vegas — Teco- lote — San Miguel«-Pecos — Apache Canon — Armijo's Flight — Conclusion of Magoffin's Embassy — The Array of the West Enters Santa Fe — Fort Marcy — Americans and Mexicans — Kearney's Proclamation — The General Marches Southward — At Santo Domingo — Albuquerque — Tome — Return to Santa Fe — Departure of Gilpin and Jackson for the Navajo Country — The Kearney Code — Appointment of Officials — Kearney Leaves Santa Fe — Arrival of Colonel Price — Doniphan Ordered to the Navajo Country — Jackson's Detachment — Reid's Expedition — Gilpin's March — Doniphan's Expedition — Grand Talk with the Navajoes — Speech of Sarcilla Largo — Treaty Signed— Return of the Troops— How Americans Fight, . . 308 CHAPTER XIII. THE NEW MEXICAN REVOLT. 1847. Projected Rising in New Mexico— Growth of the Conspiracy — Plan of Attack— Plot Revealed— Second Conspiracy — The Outbreak at Taos — Murder of Governor Bent— Other Victims — Attack on Turley's Mill— The Siege and Defense- Fate of the Defenders— The Insurgents at Mora- Americans Killed— At Las Vegas— A Faithful Official— Consternation at Santa Fe— St. Vrain's Volunteers— The Americans March on Taos— The Action of La Canada— The Fight at Embudo— The Troops Reach Taos- Pueblo of Taos— The Assault on the Church— The Action— Taos Taken— Execution of Ihe Insurgents— The Revolt Quelled— Attack on Mora- Guerilla Warfare— Peace Restored— Funeral of Governor Bent— Secretary Vigil made Governor of New Mexico, . . . . 330 CHAPTER XIV. THE EAHLT AMERICAN GOVERNMENT. 1847-1860. The Treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo— Military Rule in New Mexico- Delays in Congress— Condition of New Mexico— Military Notes— List of Commanders -Dissatisfaction in the Territory— Senator Benton's Advice— CONTENTS. Xi PAGE Petition to Congress — Delegate Elected to Washington— State and Territo- Tial Parties — Texan Claims— Attempt to Procure a State Government — Adoption of a Constitution — General Election — End of tlie State Organiza- tion — Tlie Compromise Bill — Its Provisions— The Organic Act — The Ter- ritory of New Mexico — List of .Territorial Officers- First American OflB- ■cials — American and Mexican Government Contrasted — Peonage — The Boundary Commission — Governor Lane — Governor Merivpether— His Early Adventures in New Mexico — Imprisonment and Release — Governor Rencher — Governor Connelly — Statistics of Population — Value of Prop- erty in New Mexico — Education — Industrial Condition — Tlie Santa Fe Trade — Yearly Pairs — Railroad Surveys and Explorations — Mines and Mining — The First Newspapers— New Mexican Mail Service — Santa F6 in 1854, . . 341 CHAPTER XV. THE WARDS OF THB NATION. A Repeat of History— Condition of the Mexican Frontiers in 1847— Ravages of the Indians — Terror of the People — Condition of the New Mexican Settlements — Safe Scalping Grounds — The Indian Tribes at the Period of tlie American Occupation — The Apaches — Their Devastations — Apache Spies — The 'Language of Signs— Apache Warfare— Treatment of Captives — Apache Tribes — The Navajoes— Their Wealth, Industries, and Depredations — Navajo Women — The Utes— Wards of the Nation— Their Present Condition — Honor where Honor is Due — The Stronghold of Man- zus, Colorado — Invaded by the Boundary Commission — Rescue of Mexican ■Captives— The Santa Rita Copper Mines of To-day, 261 CHAPTER XVI. THE CONFEDERATE INVASION OF NEW MEXICO. 1861-1862. New Mexico at the Outbreak of tlie Civil War— Plans of the Confeder- ates—Loyalty of the New Mexicans— Treason of Loring and Crittenden— The Army of New Mexico— Baylor's Invasion— Capture of Fort Fillmore — Lynde's Surrender— Baylor's Proclamation— Advance of Sibley's Bri- ^ade- Sibley's Proclamation— Canby's Efforts- Raising an Army— Aid from Colorado— The Hostile Forces— Advance of the Confederates— At the Panadero Ford- Battle of Valverde— Charge of the Texans— Canby's Tfetreat— Confederate Occupation of Albuquerque— Of Santa Fe— Ad- vance on Fort Union — Arrival of the Coloradoans— At Pigeon's Ranch- First Battle of Apache Canon— Slough's Retreat— A Successful " Surprise Party "—Retreat of tlie Texans— Canby at Albuquerque— Advance of the Federals— Santa Fe Regained— Junction of the Federal Forces— Albu- querque Abandoned— Action at Peralta— -Flight of the Confederates- Arrival of the Californians— Exit the Texan Rangers— Sibley's " Sour Orapes " — Remarks, ... ... 275 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVII. LATER NEW MEXICAN ANNALS. 1863-1879. Pagi Indian Depredations in New Mexico— Carleton's Policy— Bosque Re- , dondo— Apache and Navajo Campaigns of 1863-64— New Mexican Land Claims— Action of tlie Government- Pueblo Claims Confirmed— How Not to do It— Death of Governor Connelly— Governor R. B. Mitchell— Peonage Abolished— Pueblos are Citizens— Affairs at Bosque Redondo— The Peace Commission — The Bosque Abandoned — Treaty with the Navajoes — Death of Kit Carson— Daily Mails — Military Telegraph— Governor Pile — Statis- tics of Population and Property — Notes on Mining— Governor Giddings— Legislative Sessions — The Maxwell Ranch — Water in the Jornado — Consti- tutional Convention — Attempt at Statehood — Death of Governor Giddings — Secretary Ritch — Governor Axtell — Archdiocese of Santa Fe — Condition of the Territory — Indian Outbreaks — The Apache Campaigns of 1877- 1886 — The Concentration Policy — Its Effects — Geronimo and Victorio— Raids and Depredations — Death of Victorio — Geronimo's Bands — The McComas Tragedy — Crook in the Sierra Madre— Outbreaks of 1886 — Apaches Exiled — Death of Donanciano Vigil— Grand Lodge of Masons Organized— Governor Wallace— The First Passenger Train, . . . 391 CHAPTER XVIII. TEN TEABS OP PBOGKESS. 1880-1890. Advent of the Railroads— General Activity— Events of the Year— Cen- sus of 1880— Governor Sheldon— Extension of the Railroads— Disorder and Violence— Legislative Acts— Mining— Tri-Centenary Celebration— Gover- nor Ross— Territorial Census— Improvements in Irrigation— Public Build- ings— MiningNotes— Governor Prince—Legislative Acts— Statehood— Con- stitutional Convention— Governor Prince on Statehood— Ten Years of Pro- gress—Educational Matters— Religious Denominations— Railroads— Coun- ties— Land Claims— Official Action of 1870— Claims Re-examined— Neces- sity of a Speedy Adjustment— Resources of New Mexico— Mineral Wealth- Gold Mines and Mining— Old and New Placers— Principal Gold Districts- ' Silver Mines— Lake Valley Region— The Silver Counties— Coal Districts- Iron, Tin, and Lead— Other Minerals— Agriculture— The Rio Grande Val- ley—Stock Raising— Principal Stock 'Raising Counties— The Timber Lands — Conclusion, . o/jo BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. Abettia, Aniceto C, Abeytia, Don Antonio y, Abueu, Jesus G., Abebu, Mrs. Jestts 6., Alarid, Trinidad, . Ancheta, Joseph A., . Armijo, Don Juan C, Armijo, Nestor, . deBaca, M. C, Barela, Marianao, Becker, John, Bennett, J. F. , Bbtts, H. H., . BiiANCHARD, Charles, Bristol, Warren, . Bunker, W. B., Caniffe, H. J., Carey, A. H., Caret, Michael C, Carpenter, S. P., Chase, M. M., Chaves, Felipe, Chaybs, J. Franco, Chavez, Demetrio, Chavez, Frank A. Chavez, Josb G., Chapman, Maxwell, Classen, Henry, Clouthieh, a. J., Clouthibr, D. C, Coon, A. D., CooNEY, Michael, Corbett, W. E., CoRBiN, James, Cowan, R. H., Cromwell, O. E., Dane, Charles H., Delgado, Felipe, Dolan, James J., ' . Fags 451 290 284 284 565 496 290 297 562 573 379 476 569 577 , 297 452 595 376 415 307 480 383 . 303 570 . 308 308 475 412 440 404 471 364 . 629 375 . 400 387 . 368 293 . 371 XIV BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. DONOHOB, J. PaTBICK, DWER, J. AY., Ealy, a. E., M.D., ESCAKATB, GUADALOUPE, BsQUIBEIj, Josie Y, Fest, Edward, Field, Seaman, Fleming, John W., Freudenthal, Phoebus H. , Gale, Ira B., . Giegoldt, Henry, Gillespie, Geo. W.. GiVENS, J. R,, Grant, A. A. . Gregory, O. L., gutiebrbs, t. c, Hadley, 0. A,, Harkey, S. T., Harris, James, Harris, William, Hoy, J. M., . HuNiNG, J. Franz, Ilfeld, Charles, Jacobs, W. W., Jaramillo, T., Kerr, J. B., Labadie, T., Lambert, Henry, Lara, Cipriano. . Letton, Reuben Pike, Lewis. Charles W., . Lohman, Martin, Lohman, Oscar, Lopez, Lorenzo, Lu.ton, Sarino, Luna, J. M., . . Luna, Solomon, Maher, Martin, Mandebpield, W. H., Manzanares, F. a., Marcy, Russell, McFiB, John R., McDonald, R. 6., McKowN, John E., McMartin, M. a,, Mbloche, a. J Mills, M. W., 359 355 403 488 303 533 407 608 435 448 313 464 463 394 460 561 395 536 585 491 507 616 433 419 430 388 447 443 468 337 318 553 317 333 473 347 600 396 581 515 613 384 503 436 338 483 630 BIOGEAPHICAL SKETCHES. XV JllLLKK, L. D. , MONTOYA, GBNEKAt> E. , M.ONTOYA, Nestor, . jMokbhead, a. H., Newcomb, Wm., Oldham, Richabd, Sh., OzANE, Urbane, Pace, Geo. J., Pbrea, Jose L. , Perez, D., Perrault, Geo. O., portebfield, w. c, Posey, G. G., Prince, L. Bradford, QuiNTANA, Martin, Raithel, John A., Raymond, Numa, Reinken, H. D., RiCHEY, Thomas, Robinson, T. S., Romero, Benigno, Rombbo, Eugenio, . Romero. Trinidad, Rothgeb, G. S., Russell, C. T., Rynerson, W. L., . Salazar, M. M,, . Sandoval, Placido, ScHAUBLiN, Jacob, Schmidt, J. J., . Schroeder, J. p., Shulbr, J. J., Scott, Ben.jamin, . Shields, Edmund G., Skinner, Leonard, Spatcibr, N., . Sporleder, Charles H., Stephenson, H. F., . Stepp, Robert, Stevens, D. W., Storey, A. M., Tetard, L. C, . Toby, Monroe, Towner, P, J., Tkask, H. R., Trimble, W. L. , Troy, Daniel, Sk. 392 591 424 619 596 321 431 317 384 330 620 411 391 275 508 432 574 459 334 634 333 348 360 493 557 326 325 428 326 455 408 615 464 311 399 504 321 495 456 623 416 566 356 499 611 607 539 XVI BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. Valdbz, Emilio, . . 536 Valdez, Santiago F., . 500 Vandivek, R. K., . 599 Walker, Akthuk B., 511 Wabd, Geo. W .537 Wheelock, Jesse M., . 535 Whigham, H., . . . . 627 White, Michael K., . . .... . 530 Whiting, H. R,, . . . .... . 531 Ybisabbi, Eugenic, . . .... . 539 Ybisarri, Jacob, . . 586 PORTRAITS. Page Abbttia, Don Autonio t, . . . . 299 Abbytia, Anicbto C, . . . 461 Abbbu, Jbsus G., . . . . . 285 Abrbu, Mhs. Jbsus Gr., . . . . 287 Alakid, Tbinidad, . . 567 Anchbta, Joseph A., , ... 497 Akmijo, Don Juan C, . . 295 Armijo, Nbstoe, . . 309 dbBaca, M. C, . . 563 Babela, Mariano, . . 575 Bbckeb, John, . . . 401 Bennett, C. F., . . . 485 Betts, H. H., . . 571 Bbistol, Warren, . . 305 BUNKBB, W. B., . . . 461 Caniffb, Henkt J. , . 597 Cabpbntee, S. p., . 323 Cabby, Michael C, . . 425 Chavez, J. Fbancisco, . 319 Chaves, The Late Don, 409 Chaves, Felipe, . . . 409 Chavez, Demetrio, . 571 Chavez, Fbank A., . . . 327 Chavez, Jose G., . . . 331 Classen, Henry, . ... 435 Clodthieb, D. C, . . . . . . 421 CooNEY, Michael,. . 397 Cobbin, James, 405 Cowan, R. H., . . 417 Dane, Chables H., . . 401 DoLAN, James J., . 405 Ealy, A. B., M.D., . . 421 Escaeate, Guadaloupe, . . . . 493 Esquibel, Jose y, . . . . . . 313 Esquibel, Mrs. Jose y . . 315 Fest, Edwabd, . 525 Fleming, J. W., .... . . 609 Frbudenthal, Phcebus, . . . 441 Gale, Ira B., . ... . . .457 XVlll POKTEAITS. W, Gale, Mrs, Ira B., GiLLESPiB, Geo. W., Gillespie, Mrs. Geo. GiVENS, J. R., GivENS, Mns. J. R. , GBKeoRT, O. L., gutierres, t. c, Harris, William, Harkey, S. T., Jabamillo, T., . . . Kerr, J, B., Labadie, T., . Lambert, Henry, Lambert, Mrs. Henry, Lara, Cipriano, Letton, R. p., Lohman, Martin, Lopez, J. L., Lopez, The Late Don, Lopez, Lorenzo, Lopez, Mrs. Lorenzo, LujoN, Sarino, LUNAS, J. M., . Luna, The Late Don, Luna, Solomon, Maher, Martin, . Manzanares, F. a., Manderfield, W. H., Marcy, Russell, McFiB, John R., MoKowN, John E., McKowN, Mrs. John E., McMartin, M. a., Mbloche, a. J., . Meloche, Mrs. A. J., Miller, L. D., Montoya, Gen. Estanislao, MONTOYA, NeSTOE, Morehead, a. H., . Newcomb, W. H., Oldham, George, Oldham, Nathaniel, Oldham, Reed, Oldham, Richard, Jn., Pace, Geo. J., Perez, D., ... Pbrbatjlt, Geo. C, PAGE 457 477 477 473 473 469 563 551 547 429 413 453 449 449 481 377 555 353 349 351 358 481 381 603 601 417 517 583 613 391 445 445 377 489 489 413 593 433 631 597 343 339 , 345 341 . 335 365 . 631 ILLUSTRATIONS. xix PAGE QuiNTANA, Martin, . 509 Raithel, J no. a.. 441 Raymond, Xuma, . 579 Reinken, \V. D., 489 RiCHEY, Thomas,' 373 RiCHBY, Mks. Thojias, . . 373 RoBrasoN, T. S., . 635 RoMEEO, Benigno, . . 369 RoMBBO, Eugenic, . . 385 Romero, Trinidad, . . 393 Russell, C, T,, . . . , , 559 Rynehson, W. L,, , . . 365 Salazar, Mrs. Faxxie W,, . . 357 Salazar, M. M,, , 357 Sasdoval, Placido, 437 Schaublin, Jacob, , , 361 Schmidt, J. J,, , . , , 465 Spatcier, N"., , . , 505 Stepp, Robert, , . . 465 Storey, A, 31., ... . 429 Tetard, L. C, . . ... 567 Toby, Monroe, . . 389 Troy, Daniel, Sr., . . . 541 Troy, Danlel, Jr., . . 541 Troy, Lycurgus, . 543 Troy, Oscar, . . 543 Valdbz, Emilio, . . . 537 Valdez, Mrs. Emilio, 537 Valdez, Santiago F. , ... 501 Walker, Arthur B., 513 Ward, Geo. W., . , 539 White, Michael K., . ... 531 Whiting, H. R., . 523 Yrisarri, Eugenic, . ... 551 Yrisarri, Jacob, . . . 587 ILLUSTRATIONS. Residence op Don Antonio y Abbytia, Socorro, N. I\I., 301 Residence op J. Franz Huning, Albuquerque, N. M. 617 Residence of Solomon Luna, Los Lunas, N. M., 605 San Felipe Hotel, Albuquerque, N. M., . 374 Residence op J. Yrisarri, Albuquerque, N. M., . . 589 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. INTKODUCTORY. THE Territory of New Mexico presents one of tlie most strildng examples of ' ' tliat new world whicli is the ■old" to be found within the limits of the United States. While the unbroken forests of the whole Atlantic Coast and Mississippi Valley were inhabited only bj'' roving tribes, her plains and tnesas were the home of an advanced aborig- inal civilization ; her valleys, tended and cultivated, pro- duced abundant harvests ; her mountains yielded gold and precious stones ; and her people, clothed in garments of cotton and wool, dwelt in stone houses whose architecture can compai'e with that of the famous structures of Mexico and Yucatan. Her cities were ancient long before Colum- bus sailed from Palos, when as yet the sea-tossed plant or tree-trunk cast upon a foreign shore was the only token of that strange land toward the setting sun, luxuriant in -vegetation and teeming with animal life. Then came the dawn of a new era, as the spice-laden breezes of the Bahamas carried joy and hope to the weary sailors, and to the "great captain" a glorious reward for his eighteen years of patient waiting. With the discovery ■of the New World came its conquerors ; cavalier and sol- dier, rich and poor, adventurer and hidalgo, hastened to the Western India as to a short and easy road to wealth and fame. " There were others, too," says Colonel Mayer, ' ' whose reckless or dissipated habits had wasted their for- tunes and who could not bear to look upon the scenes of 'their youth or the companions of their more fortunate days. -These were the ' poor and proud ; — the noisy and the rio- 2 HISTOEY OF NEW MEXICO. tons ; — the soldier, half bandit, half warrior ; — the sailor,, half mutineer, half pirate ;— the zealot, whose bigotry mag- nified the dangers of Indian life, into the glory of martyr- dom ; and the avaricious man who dreamed that the very sands of the Indian isles were strewn with gems and gold. Among all this mass of wayward lust and ambition there were lofty spirits whose love of glory, whose passionate- devotion to adventure and whose genuine anxiety to spread the word of God among the infidels, sanctified and adorned the enterprise while their personal efforts and influence were continually directed toward the noble purpose of redeeming it from cruelty. These men recollected that posterity would set its seal upon their deeds, while many" of them acted with a higher and purer Christian motive, devoid of all that narrow selfishness with which others kept their eyes fixed on the present and the future for the popu- lar opinion that was to disgrace or dignify them on the pages of history." That feature of the Spanish conquest which first excites- our wonder and admiration is its amazing rapidity. Within fifty years from the time when the fleet of Columbus sailed from the Spanish port, not only had the empire of Monte- zuma and the wealth and power of the Incas fallen before the arms of Spain, but the regions to the north and north- west, the far-famed land of Cibola, had been explored and added to the Spanish realm by the hardy cavaliers who followed in the footsteps of Pizarro and Cortez. Years- before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth the laughing valley of the Rio Grande was dotted with hamlets clustered around the mission church before whose altar Spaniard and Indian knelt. For one hundred and ten years the Spanish power increased throughout New Mexico and Christianity spread rapidly among the natives. But with time the foreign yoke grew heavier to bear ; mines were opened in which the In- dians were forced to labor ; their sacred observances and dances were abolished ; their rights ignored, and the Inqui- sition was established in the country to detect and punish all relapses into heathenism. In 1680 the storm burst. INTKODUCTORY. iJ' The Indians rose en masse and. by the suddenness of their attack, their determination and fury, drove the Spaniards from the country. For thirteen years their temporary freedom lasted, but in 16^3, Diego de Vargas reduced, one by one, every pueblo in the country and restored the Span- ish power ; a power that remained unshaken, although several futile attempts were made by the natives to regain their liberty. The eighteenth century brought little change to New- Mexico, one governor succeeded another with more or less- political friction, the towns and population increased, and. the frequent ravages of hostile tribes alone disturbed the quiet of the people. But with the beginning of the nineteenth century a new- day dawned for New Mexico ; a day whose noon has not- yet come and whose evening is far distant. A few intrepid American traders penetrated the natural barriers whichi locked the territory from the life of the outer world, and,, like their Spanish fore-runners, carried back such reports of the richness of the land that soon the sandy wastes of the Jornada del Muerto were invaded by long lines of white-covered wagons and the quaint old town of Santa Fe- was roused to new life by " . . . . the tread of pioneers, Of nations yet to be, The first low wash of waves, where soon Shall roll a human sea." In 1821 the Mexican revolution occurred, and New Mexico- passed from the province of a monarchy to the department of a republic ; but the change was little felt and the strife' that raged in the land of the Montezumas did not extend; to that of the Pueblos. In 1837 the tranquillity of the country was disturbed by an outbreak, resulting in the killing of Governor Perez and the temporary subversion of legitimate authority. Ten years later the Americani "Army of the West," under General Kearney, enteredl Santa Fe and took possession of the country in the name of the United States Government. The treaty of Guadaloupe -4 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Hidalgo, in 1848, confirmed this separation and formally oeded to the United States a territory hitherto almost un- known but destined to become one of its most valuable possessions. With the return of the "Army of the West" new re- ports of the delightful climate, mineral Avealth, and fertile soil of New Mexico were borne east ; and many settlers from Missouri were added to those already on the way to /-this new land of promise, which, in the next thirty years, from a sparsely settled district became one of the most populous Territories in the Union. Little more than a • decade has elapsed since the first railroad w;is opened in the country ; yet within that time towns and villages have 'Tbeen erected, mines developed, and the amazing productive- ness of the soil proved. There can be little doubt that the ) mineral wealth of New Mexico is as yet hardly known, and 'that with the constantly increasing facilities for traffic, the multiplication of railroads, and the impetus of American -energy, the near future of the Territory will more than realize the visions of its early conquerors and the legends rf)f the Golden Land of Cibola. CHAPTER I. THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. Derivation of the Name Pueblo — Aztec or Toltec Origin of this People — The Ancient Migrations — Toltec Civilization — Why the Aztecs left Aztlan — Their Wanderings — The Omen of the Eagle — Tlie Nam& New Mexico — Similarity of Architecture in Old and New Mexicos — Letter of Melchior Diaz — Oastaneda's Account — Modern Pueblos — System of Government — Religious Observances — You-pel-lay or- Green Corn Dance — Pueblo Legend of Montezuma— Moqui and' Navajo Legends — Pueblo Fetiches — Dissimilarity of Language among the Pueblos — Their Industry and Wealth— Ruins of Pueblos — Pecos — Old Zuni — Wege-gi — Pueblo Benito — Peiiasco Blanco — Cause of Villages Deserted — Wager of Battle — Historic Interest of the Ruins. THE most remarkable class of the inhabitants of New Mexico are the Pueblo Indians. The word Pueblo is the Spanish for village, and these Indians are so desig- nated because they dwell in villages and subsist by agri- culture instead of living in lodges and depending upon the chase as do the wild Indians of the plains. It has been maintained that the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico were- reclaimed from a wild state and placed in villages by the ■ Spaniards. The most cursory study of the ancient history of New Mexico will refute that theory, as it positively shows that the first Spaniards who penetrated into the country found its inhabitants in substantially the same condition as to-day. It was on account of the reports; made by these wanderers of the "fixed habitations of many stories," the "garments of cotton and wool," the profusion of food, "beans, corn, and pumpkins, and little cakes delicate in flavor," of the precious stones worn im 3ars and nostrils, and adorning the dwellings of the chiefs,, that the Spaniards were induced to traverse the pathless- deserts and rocky steeps that hemmed in this new Eldorado, 5 (6 HISTOJiY OF MEW MEXICO. The origin of the Pueblo Indians is involved in the obscur- ity that always surrounds an unlettered i^eople, but their Toltec or Aztec descent is the one generally received by Mstorians. "The north of America, like the north of Europe, was the seminary of the human race ; from both, in swarms, have issued numerous nations to people the countries of the South," and from the northern parts of America, where their ancestors had dwelt for many years, came originally the inhabitants of Mexico. It is believed that in these migrations various tribes separated from the mass of their countrymen and settled in the verdant valley ■of the Rio Grande, where they soon formed prosperous com- munities extending westward as far as Zuni and Moqui ; communities differing completely in character from the wandering tribes of the plains and presenting a marked similarity to one another in their buildings, religion, and customs. The Abbe Clavigero is of the opinion that the inhabitants of tlie North and Northwest were of the same rnce as the civilized natives of the valley of Anahuac. The Toltecs, the oldest nation of which we have any linowledge, were banished from their country Huehueta- pallan, or the Kingdom of Tollan, situated to the north- Tvest of Mexico, and started on their southern pilgrimage in the year 1, Tecpatl, which would be equivalent to the year 596 of our era. In every place to which they came they remained no longer than they liked it or were easily accommodated with provisions. When they determined to :make a longer stay they erected houses and sowed the land with corn, cotton, and other plants, the seeds of which they carried with them to supply their necessities. In this wandering manner did they travel, always southward, for the space of one hundred and four years, until they arrived at a place to which they gave the name of Tollantzinco, about fifty miles to the east of that spot where, some cen- turies later, was founded the famous city of Mexico. They did not remain permanently in this country, but twenty years later, under the leadership of their cliiefs, moved forty miles westward, where, on the banks of a river, they THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 7 founded the city of Tollan, or Tula, after the name of their native country. This city, the oldest in Anahuac, was the capital of the Toltec kingdom and the court of their kings. The civilization of the Toltecs was far superior to that of the tribes who followed them ; they possessed regular laws and a government, understood the casting of gold and silver and the cutting of gems. They were an unwarlike people, with a wonderfully correct astronomy and a knowl- edge of agriculture ; their religion, although idolatrous, was unstained bj'' the bloody sacrifices which became so common among the other nations. For four centuries the Toltecs thrived, but in 1052 the greater part of the nation -died of famine and pestilence and those who survived abandoned their country and departed for the more south- ern regions of Yucatan and Guatemala, where among the temples and tombs of Palenque and Uxmal may be found the remains of their civilization. During the next century the land of Anahuac was nearly ■desolate and bare of population until the arrival of the Chichimecas, coming from Amaquemecan, likewise in the north, under the command of Xolotl, brother of their king, who had heard of the rich country to the south and was •determined to found an independent empire. They settled at Tenayuca, a place six miles north of Mexico, and formed alliances with the few remnants of the Toltec nation. They were a rude and altogether uncivilized tribe, and, according to Torquemada, "were not builders of houses, but dwelt in caves among the mountains," which may have some connection with our cave and cliff dwellings. These were soon followed by three princes of the Acol- huan nation, with a great host of followers, coming from Teoacohuacan, a country not far distant from Amaque- mecan, and who by marriage with the daughter of King Xolotl became dominant in the valley of Mexico. Last of all these tribes, most famous in history and ro- mance, came the Aztecs, who left their home in Aztlan, a country situated to the north of the Gulf of California, in about the year 1160. Their reason for leaving their native 8 HISTOKY OF NEW MEXICO. conntry is thus given by the Mexican historians : There was, among the Aztecs, a person of great authority called Huitziton, to whose opinion all paid much deference. Huitziton endeavored, though it is not known for what reason, to persuade his countrymen to change their country, and while he was meditating on this purpose, he heard, by accident, a little bird singing on the branches of a tree, whose notes imitated the Mexican word Tihui, which means "let us go." This appeared a favorable opportu- nity to obtain his wish of his countrymen. Taking there- fore another wise man with him, he led him to the tree where the little bird used to sing, and thus addressed him i " Do you not attend, my friend Tecpaltzin, to what this little krd says, 'Tihui, Tihui,' which it repeats every mo- ment to us ; what can it mean but that we must leave this country and find ourselves another % Without doubt it is the warning of some secret divinity who watches over our welfare ; let us obey his voice and not draw his anger upon us by a refusal." Tecpaltzin fully assented to this inter- pretation and the two wise men were not long in drawing the body of the nation over to their party. The Aztecs crossed the Colorado or Red River and pro- ceeded toward the southeast as far as the Gila, where they stopped for some time ; the ruins on this stream, known as the Casas Grandes, are supposed to indicate the second and third stations of their migration. From here they jour- neyed to the place called the Casa Grande of Chihuahua, and thence, traversing the steep mountains of Tarahumara, and directing their course toward the south, they reached Huicolhuacan, at present called Caliacan. For many years their pilgrimage lasted, as they shifted to different parts of the Mexican valley and endured all the hardships of a roving existence. At length, in 1325, arriving upon the borders of Lake Tezcuco, they saw an eagle resting on a cactus and grasp- ing in his talons a writhing serpent. This had been foretold by their priests as the omen which should designate the site of their home. Here, then, their journey ended, and THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 9 the city of Tenochtitlan, afterwards Mexico, was founded by sinking piles into the shallows of the lake. ' ' It should not excite wonder that the Aztecs made so great a circuit, and journeyed upwards of a thousand miles more than was necessary to reach Anahuac ; as they had no limits pre- scribed to their travel and were in seai'ch of a country wliere they might enjoy all the conveniences of life ; neither is it surprising that in some places they erected large fabrics, as it is probable they considered every place where they stopped as the boundary of their peregrination. Several situations appeared to them at first proper for their establishment, which they afterwards abandoned. Wher- ever they stopjied they raised an altar to their god, and at their departure left all their sick behind ; and probably some others, who were to take care of them and perhaps also some who might be tired of such pilgrimages and un- willing to encounter fresh fatigues." The probable Aztec origin of the Pueblo Indians is indi- cated by the name New Mexico, which, according to Herrera, was given to the province lying north of New Galicia because of the resemblance of its inhabitants to those of the city of Mexico in habits, agriculture, manufacture, and houses. The latter, different from any other aboriginal structures in North America, have excited the interest and curiosity of travelers for four hundred years. "The architecture of the Pueblos," says Governor Prince, "was analogous to that of the Aztecs of Mexico, and indeed as nearly similar as the varied circumstances relative to material and require- ments would permit. They were constructed of adobe, of cobble-stones and adobe mortar, of hewn stone and mortar, or of matched stone, carefully put together without mortar, as the case might be." It is of the ruins at the Casa Grande in Chihuahua, that Clavigero says, "The immense edifice still existing is constructed on the plan of those of New Mexico ; that is, consisting of three floors with a terrace above them and without any entrance to the under floor ; the door for entering is on the second floor, so that a scaling ladder is necessary ; and the inhabitants of New Mexico 10 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. build in this manner in order to be less exposed to the attack of their enemies; putting out the scaling ladder only for those to whom they give admission into their house." The impressions of one of the earliest visitors to these New Mexican dwellings, are well depicted in the following extract from a letter of Melchior Diaz, who visited the city of Cibola (ancient Zuni) in about the year 1540. The letter in question was sent to the viceroy Mendoza, and was by him transmitted to the emperor Charles V. " The houses, coarsely constructed, are of stone and mud. Behold the manner in which they are built ; they have one long wall, and on the two fronts of this wall there are chambers of twenty feet square and separated by partition walls, as they communicate by signs. They are ceiled with beams. In order to get into these houses you ascend upon a terrace by means of ladders which they give you in the street ; the houses are three or four stories high ; they say there are very few which are not two. These stories are more than nine feet high, except the first which is not much more than six. Ten or twelve houses make use of the same ladder ; the lower stories are set apart for labor ; they live in the upper one. They have on the ground floor loop- holes, used slantingly as in the fortresses in Spain. The Indians of the surrounding country say that when they go to make war against those of Cibola, the latter shut them- selves in their houses whence they defend themselves." The method by which these dwellings were constructed is graphically described by Castaneda, the historian of one •of the first Spanish expeditions : " The houses are built in common ; the women temper the mortar and raise the walls ; the men bring timber and construct the frames. They have no lime but they make a mixture of ashes, earth, and charcoal, which answers very well as a substitute ; for, although they raise their houses four stories high, the walls are not more than three feet thick. They make great heaps of thyme and rushes, which they set on fire ; when the mass is reduced to coal and ashes, they throw upon it THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 11 a great deal of earth and water, and mix all together. They then knead it in round masses, which are dried, and which they employ as stones ; the whole is then coated with the same mixture. The' work thus resembles some- what a piece of masonry. ' ' The pueblos, or Indian villages, of to-day are similar in all essential respects to those first visited by the Spaniards ; many of them, indeed, are centuries old, and the general plan of construction and arrangement has never altered. In some instances the houses are small and built around a square courtyard, while in other cases the village is com- posed of two or three large buildings contiguous to each other, which sometimes accommodate as many as a thou- sand or fifteen hundred people. They look more like for- tresses than dwelling-places, and if properly manned are capable of making a strong defense against small arms. The pueblo near the town of Don Fernandez de Taos, in the northern part of the Territory, is a fine siiecimen of the ancient mode of building. Here there are two large houses, three or four hundred feet in length, and about a hundred -and fifty feet wide at the base. They are situated upon opposite sides of a small creek and were anciently con- nected by a bridge. They are five and six stories high, •each story receding from the one above it and forming a structure terraced from top to bottom. Each story is di- vided into numerous little compartments, the outer tiers -of rooms being lighted by small windows in the sides, while those in the interior are dark and principally used for .store-rooms ; one of the most remarkable features of these buildings is the absence of any direct communication with the outside on the ground floor. The only means of en- trance is through a trap-door in the roof, and you ascend from story to story by way of ladders upon the outside, which are drawn up at night, the population thus sleeping /secure from attack. This method of entrance is common to -all the pueblos and was probably adopted in early times as a defense against the hostile tribes surrounding them. In 1;he buildings at Taos about eight hundred men, women 12 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. and children live together like one large family, and irr. apparent harmony. It is the custom to have a sentinel sta- tioned upon the house-top, whose duty it is to give notice of the approach of danger. Each pueblo contains an estufa, or underground cham- ber, denominated by one irreverent historian " a semi- sacred sweat-house." It is used for councils and religious- ceremonies and no woman is allowed to enter its hallowed, precincts. Here are held all deliberations upon publicr affairs and the business of the village. It was at one time customary for the warriors on returning from a victorious- expedition to repair to the estufa and by prescribed dancea- celebrate their success, often remaining there two or three days. The government of the pueblos is simple and indepen- dent, each village forming a separate community with its own peculiar laws and regulations. The Cacique is the chief officer of church and state, high-priest, and director- of temporal affairs ; he alone can appoint his successor, and it is the fii'st duty he performs upon attaining his- office. The governor is appointed by the Cacique for a, period of one year, he is chief in power and no political movement is made without his authority. The Principales, or ex-governors, are a council of wise men, advisers of the- governor, who decide important questions by their votes. The Alguacil, or sheriff, enforces the commands of the Governor and directs the public works. The fiscal mayor- superintends the religious ceremonies. The Capitan de la Guerre, or captain of war, in addition to performing the- duties which his name implies, is head of the ancient cus- toms, dances, and observances pertaining to the moral life of the people. Several priests, acting under him, order the dances, which among the Pueblos, as among all other Indian tribes, form a very important part of the religious ceremonies. The cacTiina dance, celebrated at certain seasons of the year, is one of the most impressive. When the Spaniards- conquered the country they prohibited this heathen rite^ THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 13 Tinder the severest penalties, a prohibition so bitterly- resented, by the natives that it was one of the main causes -of the revolution of 1680. Many of the sacred dances are held at night within the estvfas, the initiated alone being present ; others, like the Tou-pel-lay^ or green corn dance, :are participated in by all the inhabitants of the pueblo. It is celebrated in the following manner : At noon of the day appointed by the priests, the dancers, all of whom are men, appear, led by three elders of the village. They are clad only in small blankets about the middle, the iipper part of their bodies being painted a dark red ; their legs and arms are striped with red, white, and blue colors, and around their arms, above the elbow, green bands surmounted with sprigs of pinon are placed ; encir- -cling the neck is a necklace of the same description, and their heads are crowned with gray eagle's feathers. Around the knee are bands of red cloth to which are fas- tened the small shells of the ground-turtle and antelope hoofs, while dangling from the back, at the waist, depends :a fox-skin. In one hand they carry a dry gourd, contain- ing grains of corn, which is shaken vigorously to and fro ; in the other, a string from which hangs several tortillas, or rolls of thin corn-bread. The dancers walk in line, stooping and bending as though weighted by a load of -corn ; before each house the elders make a short speech which is listened to in respectful silence by the various occu- pants ; at the conclusion of every discourse the discordant music is sounded and the dancers begin their evolutions. This routine is kept up until all the houses of the pueblo have been visited. The musicians, who are dressed in the -ordinary costume of the town, each carry half of a gourd, placed convex side up ; across this a smooth stick is held with the left hand, and with the right a notched bit of "wood is drawn back and forth, producing a sound like the grinding of corn in the metate. The name of Montezuma appears conspicuously in the Teligious observances of this people. " Not," says Prince, "" referring to the king whom we are accustomed to identify 14 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. under that name, but to the great chief of the golden age. They call themselves the People of Montezuma, or the Children of the Sun, for the sun was the real object of their adoration." One of tlieir traditions is that they come from a city in the far Northwest, beyond the most- distant branches of the Rio Grande ; they were wanderers- and lived in caves and sheltered caiions. They sojourned at Acoma, the birthplace of Montezuma, and he it was- who chose the site of the sacred city of Pecos, upon a prom- ontory which commanded the valley below. He planned its terraced fortifications, teaching them how to make the- mortar and lay the stones, he constructed the estufas and. with his own hand kindled the holy fire, to be kept con- stantly burning in a basin of a small altar, guarded by chosen warriors who served by turns for a period of two days and two nights without eating or drinking. For a long time he dwelt with them and they waxed powerful and prosper- ous. Before he left he planted a pine tree and prophesied that his departure should be followed by the invasion of a foreign race who would oppress his people for many years ;. drought and famine would also torment them, but when that tree fell an army of white men should come from the East and deliver them from their oppressors. Still the sacred fire must burn in the estufa until lie himself should return, bringing peace and plenty to his faithful peojDle. The first part of this prophecy was strangely fulfilled, for when the "Army of the West," under General Kearney, entered Santa Pe the sacred tree at Pecos fell. The guarding of the fire was rigidly continued; "its flame," as Bancroft beautifully says, "was believed to be the palladium of the city, and the watchers by it could well dream of that day, when, coming with the sun, Monte- zuma should descend by the column of smoke whose roots they fed, and should fill the shabby little estufa with a. glory like that in a wilderness tabernacle they knew not of, where a more awful pillar of smoke shadowed the mystic cherubim. Hope dies hard, and the dim memories, of a great past never quite fade away from among any- THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 15 people. No true-born British bard ever doubted of Arthur's return from his kingly rest in Avalon, nor that the flash of Excalibur should be one day again as the lightning of death in the eyes of the hated Saxon. The herders on the shore of Lucerne know that were Switzer- land in peril, the Tell would spring from his sleep as at the crack of doom. ' When Germany is at her lowest then is her greatness nearest,' say the weird old ballads of that land ; for then shall the Great Kaiser rise from the vault in the Kyffhauser, — Barbarossa shall rise though his beard be grown through the long stone table. Neither is the- Frank without his savior. Sing, O troubadours, sing and strike the chords proudly ! Who shall prevail while Charlemagne but sleeps in the shadow of the Unters- berg I And so our Pueblo sentinel climbing the housetop at Pecos, looking over eastward from Santo Domingo on the Rio Grande, he, too, waits for the beautiful feet upoR the mountains and the plumes of him ' ' ' Who dwelt up in the yellow sun, , And sorrowing for man's despair, Slid by his trailing yellow hair To earth, to rule with love and bring The blessedness of peace .' "The fire in the great estufa at Pecos was carefully tended for hundreds of years, by vigils which grew in rigor as the number of participants decreased until, less than half a century ago the Indians of that pueblo became so reduced in numbers that they determined to abandon their houses, and preserving it with jealous care, they carried the fire to the pueblo of Jemez, where their own language was spoken and where their descendants still live." All the Pueblo tribes do not deify the name of Monte- zuma. The Moquis believe in a great Father in the East and a great Mother in the West ; the Father is the genius of evil, war, and pestilence, but the Mother is the spirit of peace, plenty, and health. From the Mother sprang nine races of men : the Deer race, the Sand race, the Water 16 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. race, the Bear race, the Hare race, the Prairie-wolf race, the Rattle-snake race, the Tobacco-plant race, and the Reed-grass race. These the Mother placed on the spot where their villages now stand and they were transformed into the men who built the present pueblos. These race distinctions are kept up and it is believed ' ' that every man when he dies shall be resolved into his primeval form ; shall wave in the grass, or drift in the sand, or prowl on the prairie as in the beginning. ' ' The Navajos, living north of the Pueblos, say that at one time all the nations, Navajos, Pueblos, Coyoteros, and white people, lived together underground in the heart of a mountain near the river San Juan. By a lucky chance the dwellers in this cave learned that space existed beyond it, upon which the wise men took council, and an exit was discovered through which men and animals gained the outer world. The Navajos came first and the moment they reached the surface fell to gambling at patole. The wise men, finding the earth in a rudimentary state, again took council which resulted in the manufacture of the sun, moon, and stars; with these latter they purposed decorating the heavens in a set pattern, but the prairie-wolf, con- temptuously demanding, "Why all this trouble and em- broidery?" scattered the stars in all directions, and so scattered they remain. The old men, disappointed but still industrious, fabricated two linages, or earthen water-jars, one of which they decorated in brilliant colors and filled with articles of little worth ; the other, unpainted, con- tained substantial wealth. When the jars were covered the Navajos and Pueblos were allowed to choose. The former eagerly seized the gaudy vessel, while the canny Pueblos departed with their sad colored crock, thereby gaining flocks and herds and all kinds of riches which they have since kept. Prom the great Sun-father himself, whom all these people worship under some designation, to the lowest animal gods, stretches an infinite array of deities, minor and major, whose powers are clearly defined. The fetiches of "the THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 17 Pueblo Indians relate mostly to the animal gods and prin- cipally to the prey gods, these being the most important objects of their worship. The most precious of their fe- tiches are those which, as tribal possessions, have been handed down from generation to generation and whose- antiquity is., plainly evinced by their polish and dark patina. These are sometimes found among the ruins of ancient pueblos, and are not supposed, by their possessors^ to be of human manufacture. It is believed that these- fetiches are the actual petrifactions of the animals they represent, and their transformation is explained in a legends given by Mr. Gushing as one of the sacred tales of Zuni. " In the days when all was new, men lived in four caverns- of the lower regions," where all was dark and sorrow pre- vailed. Pitying their forlorn condition the ' ' Holder of the- Paths of Life," the Sun-father, created two children whom^ he endowed with immortal youth and presented with a bow — the rainbow ; an arrow — the lightning ; a shield made of a network of the sacred cords — cotton, and a knife ofT flint. These children led men from their caverns up to the- outer world whose face was covered with water so that wherever the foot pressed the print was left, "as may be- seen on the rocks to this day," and monsters rose from the- deep to devour them. With the fire from their arrows of lightning, the children of the Sun-father dried the face' of the earth, and wherever they came across an animal of prey, were he great mountain lion or but a mere mole, they struck him with the fire of lightning and instantly he was shriveled and burnt into stone. " Thus it happens that we find here and there throughout the world the forms of these animals, sometimes like the beings themselves, some- time shriveled and distorted, and we often see among the- rocks the forms of many beings that live no longer, which shows that all was different in the days of the new." Very few legends are common to all the pueblos although? many may be recognized under different colorings. This is in part accounted for by the fact that the Pueblo Indians,, although virtually one people, have five distinct languages 18 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. with numerous deviating dialects, and are thus divided into five separate groups. In the towns of Santa Ana, San Felipe, Santo Domingo, Acoma,Cochiti, Silla, Laguna, andPojuate, the Queres language is spoken ; in San Juan, Santa Clara, San Ildefonso, Pojuaque, Nambe, Tezuque, and also in Harno, one of the Moqui villages, the Tegua language pre- vails ; in Taos, Picoris, Zandia, and Isleta, is the Picoris language ; in Jemez and Old Pecos, the Jemez ; in Zuni, the Zuni language. In the earliest records, however, Zuni and Moqui were considered as belonging to the Queres division. The language of the Tegua towns is nearly all monosyllabic ; that of the Queres group is usually dissyl- labic, and the Picoris language is polysyllabic, as is that of Zuni. One language, the Tagnos, or Tanos, is entirely extinct. The Pueblos are among the most orderly and useful peo- ple in the Territory. They cultivate the soil, raising- extensive crops which they market ; some of the villages own valuable vineyards and make wine to sell in the neighboring towns ; they a] so raise stock and possess large herds of horses, mules, oxen, and sheep. When the Span- iards first settled the country, they made frequent mention of cotton and woolen garments worn by the Indians. A requisition made upon the inhabitants of Tiguex, in 1542, by Coronado, of three hundred pieces of cotton cloth for clothing for his soldiers, shows that this article must have been extensively manufactured, but the art has fallen into disuse and their weaving is now confined to the fabrication of coarse blankets. Their pottery lias also excited much comment, and this they still manufacture in large quanti- ties. The vessels are often curious in form, representing birds and animals, and the decoration is liarmonious and skillful. Tliey also excel in wicker-work, making vessels tight enough to hold water after they have once been satu- rated ; a certain kind being much used by travelers as can- teens. They have well been called the "Yankees of the Plains," and are shrewd, industrious, and clever at a bar- gain. Their feeling toward the Americans lias been one of THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 19 friendliness, and tlie government, by conferring upon them in 1871 the rights of citizenship, has shown its appreci- ation of their worth. This privilege was also bestowed upon them by the Spanish conquerors ; there is a decree extant, given by Charles V. in 1523, three years after the conquest, authorizing the viceroys and governors to grant each village as much land as might be necessary for agri- cultural and building purposes. A second decree, in 1533, makes mountains, pastures, and waters common to both Spaniards and Indians. The present population of the Pueblo Indians is esti- mated at 10,000 individuals ; manuscript journals of the early Spanish officers, preserved in the archives at Sante Fe, give the number at the time of the conquest as about 300,000. This is probably much exaggerated, although Prince thinks it would not be extravagant to pat the num- ber at 150,000 at least. Three hundred years ago there were eighty pueblos, there are now twenty-five ; while of one nation, the Tanos, which numbered 40,000 persons, not a remnant remains. That the Pueblo Indians were in ancient times a numerous and powerful people is clearly attested by the ruins that lie thickly scattered throughout the country, from the canons of the Chelly and the San Juan through the valley of the Rio Grande to the now desert country of the Southwest, where stood the once famous city of Quivira. The remains of the sacred city of Pecos, are among the most interesting of these monuments of a long past greatness. It is still in comparatively good condition, surrounded by stone walls eight feet high and four feet thick. The temple, which for ages contained the fire of Montezuma, is one hundred and ninety-one feet long, thirty-tive feet broad, and fifty feet high, with walls six feet thick. The interior is divided into com- partments, having cells, cisterns, and tanks, but the out- works and turrets are a mass of ruins. The pueblo of Old Zuni, the "Cibola" visited by Coronado in 1541, "is divided into four solid squares, hav- ing but two streets crossing its center at right angles. All 20 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. the buildings are two stories high, composed of sun-dried brick. The first story presents a solid wall to the street and is so constructed that each house joins until one-fourth of the city may be said to be one building. The second stories rise from the vast, solid structure, so as to designate each house, leaving room to walk upon the roof of the first story between each building." JSTear the head- waters of the Piscao are the ruins of another ancient city which has been deserted for one hundred years. Its figure " was that of an exact square, set north and south, so that its four sides corresponded with the four cardinal points, being encircled with a double wall of stone fourteen feet apart. These walls were three stories high ; two entire stories being above ground, and the other partly above and partly below the surface. The space between these walls was divided into rooms of convenient size (about fourteen feet square), all opening into the interior. The remainder of the city, although much in ruins, appeared to have been built on streets running parallel to these walls. In these rooms large quantities of red cedar, which had been cut of convenient lengths for fire-places, were discovered in a state of entire preservation, having been stood up for use for more than a century." "The ruins west of the Rio Grande," says Prince, "near San Ildefonso, are of buildings made of blocks of lava or malpais, roughly squared and put together with adobe mortar ; the blocks are comparatively small. Some of the Chaco canon were built of tabular pieces of sand- stone, laid with adobe mortar ; the stones being from three to six inches in thickness and from six to eighteen inches in length." That of Wege-gi was seven hundred feet in circumference, and contained ninety-nine rooms. The Pueblo Bonito was five hundred and forty-four feet long, three hundred and fourteen wide, and contained three hundred rooms ; its masonry was of great beauty and precision. "The material was a firm, hard, gray sand- stone, in blocks of a uniform thickness of three inches and laid without mortar ; the joints are always carefully broken. THE PUEBLO ABORIGINES. 21 and the crevices between the ends filled in with thin pieces of stone, not over a quarter of an inch in thickness. In the pueblo of Pehasco Blanco the manner of building was a regular alternation of large and small stones, the effect of which is both unique and beautiful. The largest stones, which are about one foot in length and one-half a foot in thickness, form but a single bed, and then alternating with these are three or four beds of very small stones, each about one inch thick." This pueblo was seventeen hun- dred feet long and contained one hundred and twelve rooms. "These seem to have been the finest structures north of Yucatan and the largest ever erected in North America ; there is no reason for supposing that the pueblos of Mexico €ontain any structure superior to them," says Mr. Morgan, when drawing an analogy between the aboriginal buildings ■of North and South America. The depopulation of so many villages is mainly attrib- uted to the internecine wars following the rebellion of 1680. It is related that the Indians, when they had driven the Spaniards from the country, quarreled over the dis- tribution of land. This quarrel soon became general and •every pueblo in the country took part in it. The wise men, seeing that this division would enable the enemy to re- conquer the country, ordered that it should be decided by wager of battle ; two hundred warriors were to be chosen on each side, the defeated party to withdraw from the country, leaving the victors in possession. The combatants met upon a plain and after a long and bloody struggle the contest was decided ; the vanquished left their villages and sought other homes. If this occurrence took place it would account for the remains of so many villages scattered over the country. To whatever cause may be attributed the de- cadence of this once powerful people, the ruins of their homes must always remain an object of historical interest. CHAPTER II. THE EXPEDITION OF GUZMAN AND THE WANDER- INGS OF CABEgA DE VACA. 1530-1536. The- Land of Cibola — Nuno de Guzman — Tales of Wealth — Guzman's. Expedition — DifHoulties of the March — Colonization of Culiacan — Exploration of Cibola Abandoned — Death of Guzman — Alvar ; Nunez Cabeja de Vaca — His Descent — Expedition of Narvaez — Narvaez in Florida — Dangers and Hardships — The Building of the Boats — Vaca and his Comrades Oast Ashore — Their Sufferings — Cast Ashore a Second Time — The Isle of Malhado — Famine and Pestilence — The Spaniards Practice Medicine — Reduced to Slavery — Escape of Oviedo — His Return — Vaca meets Companions in Mis- fortune — Slavery — Escape — Wanderings of Vaca and his Com- rades — Received as Divinities by the Natives — Success in Healing — Progress through New Mexico — News of the Spaniards — Further- Tidings — On the River Petatlan — Meeting with Diego Alcarez — Quarrel between Alcarez and Vaca — Vaca Reaches Culiacan — Paci- fies the Natives— Arrives at San Miguel — Compostella — Mexico — Fate of his Companions — Vaca Sails for Spain — His Further Mis- fortunes in the New World — Route of Vaca in New Mexico. IT was about the year 1530 that the Spaniards of Southern Mexico received their earliest information of what is now New Mexico, then known as the "Land of the Seven Golden Cities of Cibola." Rumors of the wealth and fertility of this Nortliwestern region had long been current in tlie valley of Analiuac, but as yet the cotintry was unex- plored and no authentic information regarding it was ob- tainable. At this time JSTuho de Guzman was president of New Spain and resided in the City of Mexico. Sent out in 1528 from Panuco and desirous to eclipse Cortez, whom he feared and hated, Guzman was anxious to celebrate his period of rule by adding to the Spanish realm a mightier dominion than had been subdued by the great conquistador 22 THE EXPEDITION OF GUZMAN. 23 himself. He had in his employ an Indian, said to be a native of the valley of Oxitipar which the Sjjaniards called Tejas, who represented himself as the son of a merchant in the habit of traveling through the interior of the country to sell rare bird feathers, for which he received large quan- tities of gold and silver "which everywhere abounded." He said that he had made two trips with his father and had seen the cities that he spoke of ; that they were seven in number, and as extensive and beautiful as the city of Mexico itself, that entire streets were occupied by workers in the precious metals, and that the houses ' ' of many lofts ' ' were made of lime and stone, the gates and pillars being ingeniously set with turquoises ; he had seen them "with these eyes." He asserted that this country could only be reached by crossing a desert of forty days' journey, which was covered with a curious short grass about five inches high, and that it must be penetrated in a northern direction between the two seas. The Indian's account of Cibola and its wealth seized forcibly upon Gruzman's imagination and an expedition was immediately placed on foot. The army marched from Mexico December 29, 1529, Gruzman commanding ; it con- sisted of five hundred Spanish soldiers and ten thousand Aztec and Tlascaltec allies. The standard, a golden virgin on silver cloth, was borne by Pedro de Guzman, a kinsman of the president, and the expedition was one of the most imposing arrays that had yet followed any conqueror of the New World. Directing their course toward what was then called the North Sea, they reached the province of Culiacan where the government of Nuiio de Guzman ter- minated. Here he encountered many difficulties ; the country was wild and unexplored ; the mountains so rugged and precipitous that no road could be found across them ; the natives, terrified at the slaughter which marked the Spaniard's footsteps, fled to the hills or harassed the invaders. His men suffered so terribly from flood and pestilence that many, disheartened by the unexpected hardships, deserted the expedition and returned to Mexico. '34 HISTOEY OF NEW MEXICO. ■Gruzman, however, determined to remain and colonize the province of Culiacan ; with those Spaniards who were still ^attached to his fortunes he established a government at Xalisco and Tonala, two districts which subsequently formed the province of New Galicia, and founded the little town of San Miguel, which for many years was the frontier of the Spanish settlement. In the mean time the Tejas Indian had died, so all thoughts of exploring the Seven •Cities was abandoned. A royal order, conveying the governorship of ISTueva Galicia to Don Nuno, was issued and Guzman remained in ^authority about eight years, when he was thrown into prison for political reasons and died in poverty and -disgrace. The abortive expedition of Guzman put an end for the time to the projects of conquest in the far Northwest and popular interest in Cibola seemed to have expired, but the -excitement was renewed with increased ardor by the arrival at Mexico, in 1536, of Cabecja de Vaca and three com- panions, reduced almost to skeletons from the perils and :suflferings of their weary wandering, ye.t bearing news of rich countries, strange beasts, and populous villages to their -eager countrymen. The story of Cabega de Vaca dwarfs many a romance of adventure and shows more clearly than any description the hardships undergone by early explorers. It is contended by some historians that Vaca and his com- rades did not penetrate into New Mexico, but the contrary Is also confidently asserted by writers thoroughly familiar with the country and documents, and Vaca's account of the lands he traversed assuredly warrants that supposition. His description of tlie inhabitants, plants, and natural ieatures of the country, coincides almost exactly with that of the later explorers and is applicable only to New Mexico. Alvar Nunez Cabega de Vaca was a native of the city of Jerez de la Frontero and grandson of that Pedro de Vera who made the conquest of the Canaries at his own -*^xpense ; he is described as having the most beautiful and WANDEBINGS OF OABEpA DE VACA. 25 Tioble figure of all the conquerors of the New World, and his valor upon the battle-field, his resolution in danger, and his constancy and resignation in hardship won for him the appellation, " Illustrious Warrior." He occupied the post of treasurer and high-sherifE on the ill-fated expedi- tion commanded by Panfilo de Narvaez, who sailed from Spain in June, 1527, with a fleet of five ships and a force ■of six hundred men. Narvaez was commanded by the king of Spain to conquer Florida, and was appointed governor over all the country he might subdue. The voy- age was disastrous ; over one hitndred and forty men -deserted at San Domingo, and the fleet was so tossed and battered by severe storms encountered off the coast of Cuba that it was sent, under the command of Vaca, to winter at the port of Xagua, twelve miles distant from Trinidad. In the early spring they set sail again, having procured a small brig to supply the loss of one of their ships ; the full force at this time was four hundred men and eighty horses. Narvaez coasted along the southern shore of Cuba, •experiencing severe storms, then, doubling Cape San Anton, ^sailed within twelve leagues of Havana ; the next day they stood in toward land, when a sudden gale arose from the south which drove the vessels off the shore in the direc- tion of Florida and the ships anchored at Tampa Bay in April, 1528. Narvaez landed with a few officers, and, unfurling the royal banner, took formal possession of the <;ountry in the name of the king of Spain. The remainder of the army now disembarked without accident, and two days later the general, with Vaca and two officers, under an escort of forty men, made an excursion into the interior where they received information from some Indians of rich felt himself bound to protect them. This disagreement led to angry words, and Alcarez endeavored to weaken the Indians' attachment to their protector by telling them that Vaca and his comjpanions were only white men like himself and his Spaniards ; that they had been lost and were per- sons of low condition. To this the Indians answered that Don Diego lied, and, in the quaint words of the relacion^ said that "we had come from whence the sun had risen, and they whence it had gone down ; that we healed the- sick, and they killed the sound ; that we had come naked 40 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. and barefooted, and they in clothing and on horses ; that Tve were not covetous of anything, but that all that was given to us we turned and gave again, remaining with nothing, while they had no purpose but to rob any one Ihey found and give nothing to any one." Alcarez sent Vaca and his companions forward, in ■charge of an alcalde who conducted them through vast sol- itudes and forests ; so difficult was the journey that many •of the Indians died and all suffered severely. They finally reached the town of Culiacan, where Melchior Diaz, alcalde mayor, received thein with great kindness in the name of NuTio de Guzman, governor of the province, and placed all the town possessed at their disposal. He also entreated Yacato use his infliience over the Indians and induce them to return to their villages. In this he was successful, and Captain Alcarez "made a covenant with God not to invade, or consent to the invasion, nor to enslave, any part of that country and jDeople to whom we had guaranteed safety." This pacification occupied several days, during which time, so great had been the effect of the constant exposure ^lpon the bodies of the wanderers that they Avere unable to bear the weight or touch of clothes ; nor could they sleej) elsewhere than on the ground. From Culiacan they journeyed to San Miguel, where they arrived April 1, 1536 ; here they remained until May 15th, when they went to ■Compostella, and were entertained with much hospitality hy Guzman, and thence to Mexico, which they entered on July 25, 1536, and where they were received with honor- able distinction by the Viceroy Mendoza, and Cortez, Mar- quis of the Valley. After preparing a report of their travels the little party separated ; the negro, Estevanico, entered the service of Viceroy Mendoza ; Castillo remained permanently in Mex- ico ; Dorantes started for Spain, but returned and joined a projected expedition under Mendoza, which was never carried out. Alvar Nunez spent the winter in Mexico and in the early spring set sail from Vera Cruz for Spain in obedience to the summons of Charles V. He a,rrived "WANDERINGS OF CABEgA DE VACA. 41 a,t Lisbon in August, 1537, and was received with marked favor by his royal master. But his trials in the New World were not yet ended. In 1540 he was sent to Para- .guay, as governor and captain-general, by Charles V., having contributed eight thousand ducats to the expedi- tion. His protection of the Indians made him very unpop- ular among the soldiers, and the officers intrigued against him ; while at Los Reyes, Vaca fell ill of marsh fever and :so was unable to defeat their machinations ; they seized upon him, put him in irons, kept him in close confinement for a year, and then sent him — in such a state of illness that, as his secretary says, ' ' it was as if he had the candle in his hands" — ^as a prisoner to Spain, in a vessel with some of their own party who were to be his accusers. His trial lingered for eight years, and in 1551 he was con- demned to the loss of his titles and banishment to Africa. It is not known whether or not the sentence was executed, but it is believed that he was afterward pardoned and granted a pension by the crown. The route of Cabega de Vaca in North America cannot be traced with accuracy, but it appears that they were wrecked on one of the sandy islands near the coast of Louisiana or Texas, and proceeded in a northwesterly ■course until they reached the buffalo plains on some of the western tributaries of A^rkansas ; they then went in a south- western direction, passed down the Gila to a point near its •mouth, and journeyed toward the frontier settlements of New Spain. Such was the expedition, ' ' begun, ' ' says Prince, ' ' with intent to find another El Dorado, similar to those of the Montezumas and Incas, and which, though doomed to disaster from its very inception, and utterly unsuccessful in accomplishing its design, yet lives in history through the sufferings and endurance of the four men who were the first to cross the continent north of the comparatively nar- row domains of Mexico. By the people of New Mexico the name of Cabega de Vaca will ever be held in special remembrance as that of the first European who ever passed through her territory." CHAPTER III. FRIAR NIZA AND THE EXPEDITION OF CORONADO.. 1537-1542. Tales of Golden Cibola— Vasquez de Coronado— Marcos de Niza— His.. Departui'e for Cibola— Niza's Journey— Reception by the Natives— Estevanico's Death— Niza takes Possession of the Country— His Return— Zaldivar and Diaz sent to Verify his Report— Exaggerations, of Friar Niza— Expedition Organized — Coronado made Captain- General— Enthusiasm at Mexico— Departure of Expedition— The- March— Halt at Chametla— Return of Zaldivar and Diaz — Army Arrives at Culiaoan — Coronado Advances with a small Escort — Chi- chilticale— Colorado Chiquito— First Sight of Cibola— Spaniards- Assault the Town — Cibola Taken- -Country Subdued — Return of Niza — Arrival of Main Army— Exploring Parties — Moqui— Grand Canon — Tiguex — "El Turco" — Spaniards at Tiguex — Revolt — Tiguex Subdued — Cicuye — On the Buffalo Plains — Army returns to 'Tiguex — Coronado at Quivira — Disappointment — Treachery of " El Turco " — Exploring Parties — Yuqueyunque — Taos — Socorro — Coronado's Return — General Disappointment — Winter of 1541 — Coronado Injured — Expedition Abandoned — Return of Coronado to Mexico — Resumes his Duties as Governor — Route of Coronado's- Expedition. CABE(yA DE VACA's account of the countries he had l^assed through set all Mexico in a ferment, as it added fresh weight to the assertions made some years before by the Indian of Oxitipar. Tales of Grolden Cibola, with its- mighty cities defended by impregnable outworks ; of moun- tains of opal and rivers of gold ; of herds of wonderful " cows with hair an inch thick, frizzled and resembling wool," who roamed over vast plains ; of a " terrible serpent with castanets in his tail " ; and a llano, broad as the great desert of Africa,— were eagerly repeated by the Spaniards, and a general desire for exploration ensued. Even the most moderate told of a populous land, whose inhabitants. 43 FRIAB NIZA AND THE EXPEDITION OF COBONADO. 43 tilled the ground, living upon pumpkins, beans, and maize, weaving garments of cotton, and dwelling in houses four stories high. It was with the intention of conquering and colonizing these golden regions that the two next expedi- tions were dispatched, the first, which consisted merely of a priest and a few followers, preparing the way for the important expedition of Coronado. Diego Perez de la Torre succeeded ISTuho de Gruzman as ' governor of New Galicia, in 1536, but was killed early in 1538 while engaged in a stubborn campaign against revolting Indians. His successor was Francisco Yasquez de Coronado, a man famous as the first to attempt the conquest of New Mexico, and to succeed in thoroughly exploring that hitherto unknown territory. Vasquez de Coronado was a native of Salamanca, and had married the daughter of Alonzo de Estrada, Royal Treasurer of New Spain. He was a warm friend of Viceroy Mendoza, who had high hopes of conquest and discovery in the Northwest. At the time of his appointment Coronado occupied the position of visitador, but the reports of Vaca and his companions hastened the departure of the new governor to his' province. It was.agreed by Coronado and Mendoza that a small recon- noitering party should be sent to Cibola, and if, on its return, the wealth and fertility of that land was still asser- ted, a large expedition, under the governor himself, should set out to subdue and colonize the country. It was with this purpose that the little band under Friar Niza was dis- patched early in 1539. Marcos de Niza was a Franciscan friar, an Italian who had come to the New World in 1531, had been with Alvarado in Peru in 1532, and in whose ability the viceroy had much confidence. He was accom- panied by Father Honorato, a brother monk ; Estevanico, the Barbary negro who had accompanied Cabega de Vaca, and later entered the service of Viceroy Mendoza, and a number of friendly Indians. Friar Niza and his companions departed from San Miguel on Friday, March 7, 1539. Traveling in a northwesterly direction, some little distance from the coast of the Grulf of 44 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. California, they soon arrived at the town of Petatlan. The inhabitants of the country through which they passed treated them with kindness and hospitality, furnished venison, pumpkins, and maize-bread, and gave them pres- ents of robes, flowers, buflfalo-skins, and many other articles. In the parts of the country where there were no houses the Indians erected rude bowers of branches and boughs woven together for the white strangers to repose under. Hono- rato being taken ill at Petatlan, Fray Marcos left him " there and traveled on "as the Holy Ghost did lead," receiv- ing constant kindness and friendliness from the natives. After a journey of some twenty-five leagues he came to a desert, which was crossed in four days, and three days later arrived at a "town of considerable bigness," called Vacupa, where he was hospitably welcomed. Prom Yacupa, Mza dispatched Estevanico northward to search for anything of importance in that direction ; it was agreed that if his dis- coveries were unimportant he should send back a ' ' white cross one handful in length " ; if, on the contrary, he heard of a great country, he was to send back a great cross. The negro set out on the afternoon of Passion Monday, and in four days a messenger came to Niza, bearing a cross as high and as large as a man. Estevanico sent word that he had arrived among a people who gave him information of a mighty province, the first city of which was called Cibola ; that the province contained seven great cities, all under the dominion of one lord ; that the houses were built of pine or stone, and were large and commodious ; that the least of them was one story in height, some two and three, and the •dwelling of the ruler of the province .was four stories high. Mza hastened from Vacupa, traveling in Estevanico' s foot- steps, and in a few days came to the people who had told the negro of Cibola and its Seven Cities, three days' journey beyond, where they had been to get turquoises. For five days the party went on through settlements well- watered and pleasant, the last of which, not far from the present site of Tucson, Arizona, was near the borders of a desert, crossed in four days. At this village Niza found a large FKIAE NIZA AND THE EXPEDITIOJST OF COEONADO. 45 cross which Estevanico had set up, and a message that the negro was hastening forward, but would wait for the friar at the edge of the great desert. Niza now traveled through a region, populous and abounding in villages, where he was received with uniform hospitality by the Indians, and informed that he would soon come to a great desert where there was no food to be had, and that some of their people had been sent forward to carry provisions and prepare lodgings for him. Here the friar was visited by the cacique of the village and his two brothers, clad in cotton garments, with a collar of turquoise about the neck and the same j&wels in ears and nose. They offered him turquoises, dressed oxhides, beautiful drinking-vessels, and many kinds of food, and it was here that Niza received the first intima- tion that sheep existed in New Mexico or that its inhabi- tants understood the manufacture of woolen cloth. The friar was clothed in a garment of gray woolen stuff called saragossa with which the chiefs seemed much pleased ;. they informed him that there was an abundance of such cloth in the province of Totonteac (Moqui). He laughed at this, and, wishing to see if they understood the difference between wool and cotton, told them the material was the same as the cotton garments they wore. The Indians replied, " We would have thee think that we understand that that apparel which thou wearest and that which we wear are of divers sorts. Understand thou, that in Cibola all the houses are full of that apparel which we wear ; but in Totonteac there are certain little beasts (mountain sheep) from whom they take that thing whereof such apparel as thou wearest is made." In one day's journey from this village Niza arrived at the desert and continued on across it ; at noon he came to a river, where food was prepared by the friendly natives and a bower built for his repose. The same arrangements were made for his comfort during the four days he was crossing the desert. At the end of this time he entered a well-populated valley, the people of which were dressed in skins, the women wearing "good waistcoats and other 46 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. garments," with turquoises in nose and ears. They related to Niza how the people of Cibola built their houses, and when he doubted their recital, the Indians, to show him that such was the case, ' ' took earth and poured water thereon, and showed him how they laid stones upon it, and how the building grew up as they continued laying stones upon it, until it mounted aloft." He asked "if the men of that country had wings by which to reach these high lofts"; whereon, "they showed him a well-made ladder and said they ascended by this means." After many days' travel Niza arrived, on May 9th, at the edge of a great desert, the Indians proceeding before and providing him with food. He had journeyed for twelve days, when a native came to him in great fright and announced the death of Estevanico. In his progress the negro carried a mace, made of a gourd strung with bells and ornamented with two feathers, one red, the other white, the whole being a symbol of peace. It was his custom, on arriving near a town, to send the mace forward by a mes- senger. When within three days' journey of Cibola (Zuni) he sent the mace to the town by some Indians with instructions to say that he came upon a friendly mission and requested a safe-conduct. The messenger was led before the chief magistrate, who took the mace to examine it, but when his eyes fell upon the bells he dashed it to the ground and angrily commanded the messenger to leave immediately. The unlucky Indians returned in trepida- tion, but Estevanico, undaunted, proceeded to Cibola, where he was at once made prisoner and brought before the aged men and caciques. He boldly declared that he came from a mighty chief and commanded them to sur- render their riches and their women. This audacity satis- fied the Indians that "he was a dangerous man," and he was condemned to death. He made a futile attempt to escape, but was killed with all but three of the Indians who accompanied him. Fray Marcos, alarmed at tliis event, did not endeavor to enter the city, but before leaving the country he ascended a high hill from which he could FEIAR NIZA AND THE EXPEDITION OF CORONADO. 47 survey Cibola ; then, with the help of the Indians, he raised a heap of stones ; set up a cross, the symbol of taking possession, and under the text, " The heathen are ^iven as an inheritance," named the province " El Nuevo Kegno de San Francisco" (The New Kingdom of Saint Francis), taking formal possession of it in the name of the ■" most honorable Lord Antonio de Mendoza, Viceroy and ■Captain-General of New Spain." The Indians, grieved at the death of their friends who had accompanied Estevanico, soon became hostile and the friar received but little hospitality on his homeward jour- ney, which was by the same route, but made with " more fear than food." He arrived at Compostella toward the ■end of June, and Abbe Domenech, speaking of Niza's jour- ney says, ' ' The information given by Father Marcos is so vague that it is scarcely possible to state precisely the route he followed. . . . There would seem to be, however, good -authority for supposing that his journey was made through the valley of the Gila, . . . across the Colorado Chiquito, ■thence through the Mogollon Mountains, and across the ^reat plateau to the western slope of the Sierra Madre." The whole distance from Cibola to Culiacan vs^as estimated at three hundred leagues. During the absence of Niza, Coronado, although em- ployed with the affairs of his government and anxiously •awaiting the friar's return, found time to invade the northern province of Topeja, of the vs^ealth of which he had Teceived reports. His force was small and the expedition "unsuccessful, as the riches of the land did not materialize. He consequently returned to Culiacan, where he found Niza just arrived from Cibola. In the account of his journey to the land of the Seven Cities, the friar made so many mar- velous statements that Coronado, despatching Melchior Diaz and Juan de Zaldivar to verify these reports, accom- panied Mza to Mexico where he related his discoveries to Ticeroy Mendoza ; testifying that, not only had he taken possession of Cibola but that he had been in the famous esos deprojecto, six reales ; pesos de antiguos, four reales ; and pesos de la tierra, two reales. This was a profitable ar- rangement for the inventors, as they bought for the pesos de la tierra, and sold for the pesos de plata. As in all agricultural districts, food was cheap but pianufactured goods very dear : flour was two dollars a hundred ; beeves, five dollars each ; sheep, one dollar each ; fine cloth was twenty dollars a yard ; linen, four dollars a yard. At the end of the eighteenth century Santa Fe is des- cribed as being of a " long rectangular form, extending about one mile from east to west on the banks of the river. In the center is the public square, one side of which forms the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed, and in some degree defended by round towers in the block which flanks the curtains. Another side of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his guard houses, etc.; another is occupied by the priests and their suite, and the fourth by the Chapetones, who reside in the city. The houses are generally only of one story, with flat roofs, and of a mean appearance on the outside, but some of them are richly burnished, especially with plate." The population of Santa Fe in 1799 is given, according to the latest research, at 4,508. The government was mili- tary, the decisions of the alcaldes and other civil officials being subject to the approbation of the commandante of the district. The entire male population was liable to military duties and obliged to supply their own horses, arms, and provision, the government furnishing ammuni- tion only ; their subordination, courage, and endurance were admirable. Tbere was only one troop of dragoons of 122 HISTORY OP WEW MEXICO. the regular force in all New Mexico ; this, numbering one thousand men, was stationed at Santa Fe-; the governor was always the captain, styled Captain of the Royal Troop of Santa Fe Dragoons, but they were commanded by the first lieutenant — captain by brevet. The aristocracy of New Mexico were the (JTiapetones, or Cachupines, the full blooded Spaniards, who held themselves infinitely above the castas, or people of mixed race, and the native Mexicans. The social aspect of the city, as is natural at all military posts, was a very gay one ; tempered always, however, by the ceremonious observance of Castilian etiquette. The religious and military ceremonies were celebrated with great state, the prelates of the city ranking among the highest dignitaries and maintaining extensive and handsome estab- lishments. CHAPTER IX. THE FINAL YEARS OF SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 1800-1822. Foreign Possessions in North America at the beginning of the XIX. Century — Population and Extent of the United States— The Louisi- ana Purchase — Expeditions of Lewis, Clark, and Pike— Fernando Chacon, Governor of New Mexico — Administration of Governor Alencaster— Fears of American Invasion — ^Expedition of Facundo Melgares — Spanish Discipline— Success of Melgares's Expedition — Lieutenant Pike's Second Expedition — His Instructions — Depar- ture — Among the Rockies — Pike's Peak — The Search for Red River— Christmas Day, 1806 — Cold and Starvation — The Fort on Rio del Norte — Departure of Dr. Robinson — Spanish Visitors — Pike's Mistake — Arrival of Spanish Troops^" This is the Rio del Norte " — Americans Taken to Santa Fe — The Journey — At the Capital — Pike's Explanations — ^" Remember Alencaster in Peace or War " — Meeting with Dr. Robinson — Escorted South by Lieutenant Melgares — The Americans at Chihuahua — Return to the United States — ^Arrival at Natchitoches — -Pike's Services Acknowledged — His Book — Death at Toronto — Rule of Governor Manrique — Depar- ture of Don Pedro Pino for the Spanish Cortes — His Requests^ Governor Mainez — Governor Allande — Administration of Mel- gares — Boundary Question Settled — Iturbide's Triumph — Facundo Melgares, Political Chief. FOR twenty-two years longer New Mexico was destined to remain a part of Ihe great Spanish empire, but the forces were already at work which were to change her political status forever. As we have seen, the encroach- ments of the French had been watched with jealous eyes by Spanish officials ; a far more redoubtable neighbor, how- ever, was striding toward her door. A map of Nortli America at the conclusion of the war with Great Britain, by the treaty of Septamber 3d, 1783, shows us Spain in posses- sion of Florida, then extending to the Mississippi, and including a slice of the present Alabama, Mississippi, and 123 124 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Louisiana ; Mexico ; Texas ; both the Californias ; and New Mexico, which included the present Arizona, Utah, Nevada, and part of Colorado. France held the vast tract embracing the present Louisiana, then called the " Territory of Orleans"; and the " District of Louisiana," extending from the Mississippi to New Spain and the Pacific on the west, and to Canada on the north. England retained Canada and Nova Scotia, while the thirteen United States extended from the great lakes to the southern border of Georgia, and from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. The population was about 3,250,000, confined to a line of towns scattered along the coast from Maine to Georgia ; fifty miles back the country was an unbroken forest. The first census, taken in 1790, showed a population of nearly 4,000,000, and the towns had crept as far west ns the AUeghanies. The second census, taken in 1800, showed over 5,250,000, and the population was advancing over the plains to the Mississippi. In 1803 the United States govern- ment bought of the emperor Napoleon I. the entire " Terri- tory of Orleans " and "District of Louisiana," covering an area of about 1,000,000 square miles, for $15,000,000 ; its inhabitants, chiefly French, or descendants of the French, with a few Spanish Creoles, Americans, English, and Ger- mans, amounted to between 80,000 and 90,000, including 4' ,000 slaves. That same year an appropriation was made by Congress to defray the expenses of an exploring party through the new domain. The expedition, consisting of twenty-eight men and an escort of Mandan Indians, was commanded by Captain Meriwether Lewis of Virginia, and Captain Jonathan Clark of Kentucky. They set out on May 14th, starting from the little French village of St. Louis, ascended the Missouri to its sources, crossed the Rocky Mountains, and reaching the head of the Columbia River followed it to the Pacific. A second expedition, to the sources of the Mississippi, was sent out in 1805 under Lieutenant Zebulon M. Pike. These were the scouts of that great army of Americans, whose footsteps were soon to echo through the streets of Santa Fe. THE FINAL YEARS OP SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 125 Fernando Chacon governed New Mexico until the spring of 1805. The Comanches, whose last two whippings seem to have produced in them a complete change of heart, were very friendly, spying and reporting upon the move- ments of the Americans in the northwest, and generally proving themselves partisans of the government. The ISTavajoes, however, were as troublesome in this century as the Comanches had been in the preceding ; they in- trenched themselves in the Caiion de Chelly, carrying on their depredations from this almost impregnable strong- hold ; the governor led several expeditions against them, but with little effect. Colonel Joaquin del Real Alencaster succeeded to the governorship in 1805. In 1806, New Mexico was thrown into a state of consternation by reports of a threatened invasion from the United States. The fit- ting out of the expedition under the army officers just men- tioned, and rumors of Burr's conspiracy, — a plot that caused much anxiety even in the better informed East, — gave strong color to the tidings brought from many quarters, and the Spanish government determined to inves- tigate them and to strengthen herself, in case of attack, by alliances with the Indian tribes. This important duty was entrusted to Lieutenant Facundo Melgares, who was dispatched at the head of one hundred dragoons from New Biscay (Chihuahua) to Santa Fe, whence he was to proceed on his tour of investigation and conciliation. Leaving the New Mexican capital with an additional force of three hun- dred mounted militia, over one thousand extra animals, horses, and mules, and supplies for six months, they de- scended the Red River 233 leagues and held a grand council with the Comanches. The meeting took place upon a broad prairie, where 1,500 warriors, curbing the hand- somest horses that they could raise or steal, were drawn up to receive the Spanish embassy, whose array was equally imposing. Melgares and his two principal ofiicers in bril- liant uniform rode forward upon jet black steeds of the finest Spanish breed, followed by five hundred dragoons armed cap a pie and all mounted upon horses whose coats 126 HISTORY OP NEW MEXICO. of spotless white glistened like silver. Presents were given and treaties made on both sides, and the Spaniards struck off to the northwest to the Arkansas, where Melgares left 240 of his men with the lame and tired horses, and pushed on with the rest to the country of the Pawnees on the Kansas. He was well received by the chiefs and warriors of that nation, among whom he distributed Spanish flags, medals, and decorations, a ceremony which concluded his work of conciliation ; a sharp lookout had been kept along the entire- route but no traces of encroaching Ameri- cans were discovered, and he took up his march for Santa Fe, which was reached in October. Melgares is described as brave, wealthy, and exceedingly generous ; but he was a strict disciplinarian, if we are to believe a story related of this expedition : They had con- tinued down the Red River until their provisions began to fail, when some of the militia ventured to ask the comman- der where he was going, to which he answered, ' ' Wherever his horse carried him." This succinct reply did not en- tirely allay their fears, and a few mornings after he was presented with a petition to return home, signed by two hundred of the Santa F6 soldiers. He called a halt, com- manded the dragoons to erect a gallows, beat to arms, bade the petitioners to stand forward, ordered fifty lashes then and there to the man who had presented the petition, and threatened to hang any one who presumed to murmur ; the march was then resumed. This is said to have been the first instance of a Spaniard being subjected to corporal punishment in the province. The policy of treaties and presents worked well with the Indians, and the expedition appears to have been satisfactory to the government ; in view of the distance traversed and tribes visited, it was a very remarkable one. In this same year, 1806, the United States government dispatched a party on a mission analogous to that of Mel- gares ; viz., the conciliation of the Comanche and Pawnee nations and the reconnoissance of the Spanish frontier. The officer placed in charg'e was Lieutenant Zebulon M. THE FINAL YEARS OF SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 127 Pike, but just returned from his exploration of the Upper Mississippi. As Lieutenant Pike was the second American to enter Santa ¥6, and the first to make this quaint little Castilian city, with its strange background of ancient abo- riginal semi-civilization, known to the East, his personal narrative of the journey and its results possesses great in- terest. His instructions were to escort certain Osage In- dians, rescued from captivity, and a deputation of that nation returning from Washington, with their presents and baggage, up the Missouri and Osage rivers to the town of Grand Osage ; to move with sufficient caution to avoid the attack of hostile tribes and to repel determinedly any at- tempted outrage ; to effect an interview and establish a good understanding with the Comanches ; to make peace with the nations inhabiting the country lying between the United States and Comanche nation, particularly the Osages, and, if possible, to induce eight or ten of their dis- tinguished chiefs to visit Washington the ensuing Sep- tember ; if four or five Pawnees and the same number of Kansas chiefs could be added to the embassy it would be satisfactory to the United States government. The head- waters of the Arkansas and Red rivers — the home of the Comanches — being contiguous to New Mexico, great care must be taken to keep clear of hunting or reconnoitering parties from that province and to avoid giving any offense, as it was the earnest desire of the Executive to cultivate the friendship of all the nations of the earth, and particularly of the Spaniards, "our nearest neighbors." Pike was desired to remark particularly upon the geographical structure, the natural history, and population of the coun- try ; to collect and preserve curious mineral and botanical specimens ; also to ascertain the direction, extent, and navi- gability of the Arkansas and Red rivers, for which purpose he was advised to detach a party under Lieutenant Wilkin- son or Sergeant Ballinger down the stream to take the navi- gation, remark on the soil, timber, and tributary streams, and report at Natchitoches. His party consisted of twenty-two men, lightly equipped 128 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. and he was furnished with six hundred dollars' worth of goods to disburse for the incidental expenses of the trip. On the 15th of July, 1806, they left Belle Fontaine in two boats, and arrived at Grand Osage in August, disembarking the Indians and holding councils with the chiefs. In Septem- ber Pike had an interview with the representatives of the Pawnee nation at their encampment ; the appearance of the American party was by no means as imposing as that of the Spanish embassy, and at first the Indians treated them with scant courtesy, but friendly or, at least, neutral relations were finally established. Here Pike saw the first traces of Melgares's expedition, which had so recently preceded his own. He reached the Arkansas River in October, and on the 28th, in accordance with his instructions, he detached Lieutenant AVilkinson, in command of five men, to follow the course of that river to its junction with the Mississippi, and started with the remainder of the men for the moun- tains. In November he came in sight of the Rocky Moun- tains and that great peak which was to cost him much suffering, but was also to bear his name and keep alive the memory of one hardy pioneer in a region where so many hundred have died and been forgotten. Pike's journal, bearing date November 15th, 1806, con- tains the following entry : " At two o'clock in the after- noon I thought I could distinguish a mountain to our right, which appeared like a small blue cloud ; viewed it with the si)y-glass and was still more confirmed in my conjecture, yet only communicated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in front with me, but in half an hour it appeared in full view before us. When our small party arrived on the hill they with one accord gave three cheers for the Mexican mountains. These proved to be a spur of the grand western chain which divides the waters of the Pacific from those of the Atlantic ocean." The record of the party from this period is one of terri- ble suffering. They wandered among the mountains for two months, through the storms and cold of mid-winter, clad in thin cotton clothing, and without food excepting THE FINAL YEARS OF SPANISH GOVEKNMENT. 129 what they could kill. In their search for the Red River they crossed the range in the vicinity of what is now Lead- ville, climbing precipices, penetrating canons, and fording streams. On December 15th, Pike says, "My poor fellows now suffer extremely from the cold, being almost naked." It became more and more difficult to procure meat, and on December 24th Pike notes the return of Dr. Robinson with two buffaloes, from a two days' hunting excursion upon which neither the doctor nor the men accompanying him had eaten a particle of food. Sparks, who had gone with another party, returned the same day and reported the killing of four cows, while the lieutenant had also managed to shoot two the day before ; "thus from being in a starv- ing condition we had eight beeves in camp." On Christ- mas day it stormed heavily and Pike determined to remain in camp and dry the meat ; the men also endeavored to manufacture shoes and body covering from the raw hide. In his journal for December 25th, the lieutenant says : "The privations and hardships we underwent were this day brought more fully to our minds than at any time pre- viously, — eight hundred miles from the frontiers of our country, in the most inclement season of the year ; not one person properly clothed for the winter ; many without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks and other articles ; lying down at night in the snow or in the wet ground, one side burning whilst the other was pierced by the cold wind. We spent the day as agreeably as could be expected of men in our circumstances." Their Christ- mas fare was the buffalo meat, without salt or any other thing whatever. After crossing the range they had struck a stream whose course they followed, supposing themselves on the Red River, and pushing along as fast as their wretched condition and the heavy snows would permit, when, on the 5th of January, they found themselves back at their old camp on the Arkansas, which they had left nearly a month before. Four weeks of cold, hunger, and almost superhuman endurance were thus spent in vain ! They started again 130 l-irSTOEY OP NEW MEXICO. through the pathless snow over the interminable hills. On January 17th they forded a stream, getting very wet ; the night came down extremely cold and when they halted at eight o'clock to encamp for the night nine of the men had frozen feet. Next day Pike and the doctor went out to hunt for "something to preserve existence, found nothing, encamped among some rocks, and stayed up all night as from the intense cold it was impossible to sleep, also hungry and without covers." On Monday they succeeded in killing two buffaloes, which they immediately carried back to the camp. The feet of some of the men were so badly frozen that they could not go on and they were left in rudely constructed shelters along the route with a supply of food and fuel. On the 30tli of January they arrived at the banks of a stream, which they fervently hailed as the long-sought Red River. Here Pike decided to go into camp and build a stockade for its better defense in case of attack, while a party went back to bring in the disabled men, determining when all were assembled to proceed down the river by raft or canoe to Natchitoches. On February 7th Dr. Robinson, who had been the lieu- tenant's most faithful ally, displaying courage and endur- ance equal to his own, throughout their painful wanderings, left the camp for Santa Fe to collect a bill due an American creditor. It was the doctor's intention to return in time to rejoin the party on their homeward march ; of course any information he might glean as to the prospects of trade, strength of the Spanish garrison, etc., would not be amiss. On the 16th Pike discovered two horsemen advancing toward the camp, and hailed them to the effect that "we were Americans and friends, almost the only two words I knew in the Spanish language." The riders proved to be a Spanish dragoon and a Pueblo Indian ; they informed the lieutenant of the safe arrival of Dr. Robinson at Santa Fe and accompanied him to his camp, over which the stars and stripes were floating — a rather startling sight, it may he fancied, to a Spanish dragoon on Spanish soil. Pike, who fully believed himself on the Red River, explained his in- THE FINAL YEARS OF SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 131 tentionof descending the stream to Natchitoches, observing that if Governor Alencaster would send an officer who spoke French or English " I would do myself the pleasure to give his Excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to my intentions' in coming on his frontier." The dragoon soon took leave of Pike and hastened back to report to the governor at Santa Fe. On the following day, the 17th of February, the jouimal contains this entry : ' ' This evening the corporal and two of the men arrived who had been sent back to the camp of their frozen companions. They in- formed me that two more would arrive the next day, but the other two, Dougherty and Sparks, were unable to come. They said they had hailed them with tears of Joy and were in despair when they again left them, with the chance of never seeing them more. Thus these two poor fellow are to be invalids for life, made infirm at the com- mencement of manhood and in the prime of their course, doomed to pass the remainder of their days in misery and want — for what is the pension? Not sufficient to buy a man his victuals." The two disabled men left behind sent some of the bones taken from their feet, conjuring their leader not to leave them to perish in those desolate wilds, and Pike swore they should be saved if he had to go back for them himself. On the 26th of February two Frenchmen arrived at the camp and informed the lieutenant that Grovernor Alencaster, hearing that the Utahs meditated a raid upon the Ameri- cans, had sent a party of dragoons for their x>rotection ; shortly after the force appeared; it consisted of fifty regulars and fifty militia, armed with lances, escobars, and pistols. Pike advanced upon the prairie where he was introduced to Don Ignacio Saltelo, the commandante, and Don Barto- lome Fernandez, whom he invited to breakfast within the fort ; after the meal was finished Saltelo addressed Pike as follows : " Sir, the Governor of New Mexico, being informed that you have missed your route, ordered me to offer you in his name mules, horses, money, or whatever you may stand in need of to conduct you to the head of the Red 132 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. River, as from Santa Fe to where it is sometimes navigable is eight days' journey, and we have guides and routes of traders to conduct us." "What," exclaimed the lieutenant, "is not this the Red River?" "No, sir, it is the Rio del Norte." Pike immediately ordered his flag taken down and rolled up, feeling how seriously he had compromised himself by his invasion of Spanish territory. Saltelo added that he had provided mules and horses to transport the American party, with their baggage, etc., to Santa Fe where his Excellency, Governor Alencaster, was most anxious to see them. Pike stated to the comraandante the condition of his party and the absence of his sergeant, who had been detailed to bring in the two disabled men ; also that his instructions did not justify him in entering Spanish territory, his having done so being purely an accident. Saltelo was polite but firm, reiterating that the governor awaited them and that it was necessary that he should receive an explanation of this invasion of his province. Lieutenant Pike's position was a most unpleasant one, but to precipi- tate a conflict on Spanish soil by offering resistance would have made a bad matter infinitely worse, and he prepared to accompany his escort to Santa Fe. The corporal was left in charge of the camp with written directions for the men who were to follow, also under a strong Spanish convoy. On February 26th Pike reluctantly left the little camp, which was situated on the Conejos just above its junction with the Rio del Norte. On March 1st they reached Ojo Caliente, or Warm Springs, which excited great admiration among the Americans ; Pike describes them as two in num- ber, about ten yards apart, and each affording sufiicient water for a mill site ; they appeared to be impregnated with copper and were more than 33" above blood heat. In his journal of March 2d he says : " We were frequently stopped on our march by the women, who invited us into their house to eat, and in every place where we halted a moment there was a contest who should be our hosts. My poor lads who THE FINAL YEARS OP SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 133 had been frozen were conducted home by old men who would cause their daughters to dress their feet, provide food and drink, and give them the best bed in the house. The whole of this conduct brought to my recollection the hospitality of the ancient patriarchs, and caused me to sigh with regret at the corruption of that noble principle by the polish of modern ages." At the village of San Juan Pike was met and interro- gated by a Franco- American who had settled in Santa Fe under circumstances that excited a prejudice against him in some quarters, and the lieutenant, who was extremely honest and straightforward, "told him that I considered him too contemptible for further notice, but that he might tell the governor the next time he employed emissaries to choose those of more abilities and sense, and that I ques- tioned if his Excellency would find the sifting of us an easy task. He returned to the priest' s house with me and instead of making any complaint, in reply to their inquiries about who I was, etc., informed them that when he left Louisiana I was governor of Illinois ; this report served but to add to the respect with which my companions and host treated me." On the morning of March 3d they came in sight of the capital ; when they entered the city there was a great crowd collected to view the " Americanos," who must have presented a very remarkable spectacle, for Pike says that he was " dressed in a pair of blue trousers, moccasins, blanket coat, and a cap of red cloth lined with fox-skins ; and my poor fellows in leggins, breech cloths, and leather coats, and not a hat in the whole party. This was extremely mortifying to us all, especially as the people asked us if the Americans were a tribe living in houses or in camps like the Indians, and if we wore hats in our country." The crowd followed the explorers to the very door of the palace where Pike was ushered into the presence of Governor Alencaster. His reception was a cold one, and after a brief interrogatory and as brief answers the lieutenant was requested to return in the evening. He did so, and this interview was a far 134 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. more satisfactory one; Pike's explanations were courte- ously received, and as he concluded the governor " got up and gave me his hand (for the first time) and said he was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor and a gentleman ; that I could retire this evening and take my trunk with me ; that on the morrow he would make further arrangements."' The next day the governor informed Pike that he must explain his position to General Salcedo, military commandante at Chihuahua. The A.merican natu- rally protested against being led three or four hundred leagues out of his route, but yielded to circumstances here with the same wisdom he had shown at his camp on the Conejos, and the discussion, which might easily have led to a declaration of war, concluded with an invitation to dinner. "After dinner his Excellency ordered up his coach, Captain D'Almansa, Bartolome, and myself entered it with him and drove out three miles. It was drawn by six mules and attended by a guard of cavalry. When we parted his adieu was, ' Remember Alencaster in peace or war.' " On March 7th, Pike rejoined Dr. Robinson, who was also- being escorted to Chihuahua by a troop under command of Lieutenant Melgares, who treated the Americans with the greatest consideration and friendliness. He declined to hold guard over the trunks containing Pike's papers and further added: "Dr. Robinson now being acknowledged one of your party I shall withdraw his guard and consider him as under your parole of honor." Pike also remarks that " Melgares' s mode of living was superior to anything we have an idea of in our army, having eight mules loaded with his common camp equipments, wines, confectionery, etc." On the 2d of April they arrived at Chihuahua and Pike explained his intrusion on Spanish territory to Gen- eral Salcedo, who retained his papers but treated him and his party with great hospitality, and sent them with an es- cort through Coahuila and Texas to Natchitoches, where they arrived on the 1st of July, 1807. Pike's services were acknowledged in the following THE FIKAL YEARS OF SPANISH GOVERNMENT. 135 letter from the War Department, bearing date February 24tli, 181 8 : " Sir .-—In answer to your letter of the 22d inst., I can with pleasure observe that although the two exploring ex- peditions you have performed were not previously ordered by the President of the United States there were frequent communications on j;he subject of each between General Wilkinson and this department, of which the President of the United States was made from time to time acquainted, and it will be no more than what justice requires to say that your conduct in each of these expeditions met the approbation of the President, and that the information you obtained and communicated to the Executive has been con- sidered highly interesting in a political, historical, and geographical view ; and you may rest assured that your services are held in high estimation by the President of the United States, and if any opinion of my own can afford you any satisfaction I very frankly declare that I consider the public much indebted to you for the enterprising, persever- ing, and judicious manner in which you have performed them. I am, very respectfully, sir, " Your obedient servant. " H. Dearborn." Lieutenant Pike's book was published in 1810, audits fascinating relation of adventures, perils, and strange tiibes, with its pictures of the till then unknown region of N"ew Mexico, rich in all that men desire, — flocks and herds, silver and gold, wine and bright eyes, — was eagerly read and led many to undertake the perilous journey to that province. The brave explorer attained the rank of brigadier-general and lost his life at the taking of Toronto in 1813. Lieutenant- colonel Jose Manrique succeeded Alencaster as governor of New Mexico in 1808. In 1810, the central junta of Spain issued a decree according to New Mexico the honor of a representative in the Spanish cortes ; as soon as this fact was proclaimed in the province the leading men assembled at Santa Fe to elect a delegate and Don Pedro Bautista Pino was chosen. He departed for Spain in October, 1811, accompanied by his grandson Juan de los 136 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Reyes Vaca y Pino, then eleven years old ; Don Pedro defrayed his own expenses and took with him nine thousand dollars sent by the New Mexicans to the king, Fernando VII., then engaged in a struggle with France. Pino rep- resented to the cortes the necessity of strengthening the frontiers of his country, begged that the citizens called upon to act as soldiers might be paid for their services, asked that military posts be established at El Paso, Rio de Pecos, Socorro, and Taos, and a supply station at San Cristobel. He also requested that a civil and military court might be held at Chihuahua, that at Guadalajara being too distant to inspire the law-breakers of New Mexico with much terror, and that a separate bishopric, with college and schools, should be set up for the province. In 1815 Alberto Mainez succeeded as governor ; his policy in regard to foreign traders was more generous than that of his predecessors. In 1816 Pedro Maria de AUande became governor and made things very unpleasant for the traders who had been encouraged by Mainez. Facundo Melgares, the leader of the Spanish expedition of 1806, succeeded as governor of the province in 1818. The Navajoes renewed their depredations Just about this period, and the governor, a tried Indian fighter, led a force against them and finally defeated them. In this same year the vexed question of the boundary between the United States and Spanish terri- tory was settled, both parties accepting the Arkansas from the mountains down to longitude 22° as the dividing line. It was on December 26th, 1821, that the news of Iturbide's triumphal entrance into Mexico was received in Santa Fe, and New Mexico was no longer the appanage of a kingdom beyond the ocean, but a province of the Mexican empire. The tidings were received with great rejoicings, salutes of artillery, military processions, and a grand haile at the palace, presided over by Melgares, no longer royal gover- nor but political chief. CHAPTER X. THE SANTA Ft TRADE. Origin of the Santa Fe Trade— Journey of Baptiste Lalande— Adventures of James Pursley— His Discovery— Pursley at Santa Fe— Return of Lieutenant Pike— Venture of McKnight, Beard and Chambers— Their Misfortunes— Experience of Choteau and De Mun — First Tra- ders— Glenn— Becknell— The Coopers— Becknell's Second Trip— A Terrible Experience — Real Commencement of the Santa Fe Trade — Spanish Policy— Mexican Industries— Exorbitant Prices— Introduc- tion of Wagons— Relative Merits of Horses, Mules, and Oxen- Independence, Missouri—" All Sorts and Conditions of Men" — Or- ganizing a Caravan—" A Santa Fe Assortment " — The Departure- Council Grove — The Journey — Maneuvers of the Wagons— Near ing SantaFe— "Runners"— "La Entrada de la Caravana ! "— At the Custom-House — Derechos de Arancel — The Return Trip — Proposed Routes— The Trail— Kit Carson— Some Early Traders— Indian At- tacks — An Expensive Visit — Murder of McNees and Monroe — The Consequences— Repeated Outrages — Government Escorts — Effect of the Texan Expeditions— Ports Closed— Table of the Santa Fe Trade from 1823 to 1843— Re-establishment of the Trade— Growth and perity — Railroad vs. Caravan. THE acquisition of Louisiana by the United States marked a distinct era in the history of New Mexico. Before this period the Spanish provinces had been isolated, as it were, from the rest of the world ; but now tliat this enormous tract had become American territory it was im- possible for the ancient barriers to remain, and within ten years from the date of the purchase a fluctuating but steadily increasing intercourse had sprung up between the Western cities of the United States and the northern provinces of Mexico. The Santa Fe trade, as this overland commerce was called, had no definite origin, but was rather the result of accident than of any organized plan. Beginning with the desultory trafiic carried on with the Indians by Spanish and American trappers, its scope grad- 137 138 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. ually extended, until the distant cities of Santa Fe and Chihuahua had become markets for the commodities of the eastern coast, and the Santa Fe trade was a recognized fea- ture of American commerce. The first American to penetrate the wilds of Louisiana and enter New Mexican territory was James Pursley, a Kentuckian, but his arrival at Santa Fe was antedated by that of Baptiste Lalande, a French Creole, who reached the province in 1804. In the early part of this year Lalande was dispatched on a trading expedition by William Morrison, a merchant of Kaskaskia — then one of the extreme frontier settlements, a few miles above St. Louis on the eastern side of the Mississippi. He was furnished with the necessary articles for barter with the Indians, and his orders were to push up the Platte River, make his way, if possible, to Santa Fe, and report on the prospects of commercial intercourse between that city and the United States. After a perilous journey Lalande succeeded in reaching the Rockies, whence he dispatched a party of Indians into Mexico to inform the authorities of the arrival of this stranger from the distant East. A_ mounted trooj) of Spaniards set out at once and brought the trader and his goods to a small settlement some miles north of Taos. From Taos Lalande proceeded south- ward to Santa Fe, disposing of his merchandise as he journeyed on, and making profits which exceeded his utmost expectations. So well was the enterprising Baptiste pleased with the country, its inhabitants, and its possibili- ties in the line of trade, that he gave up all thoughts of re- turning East and settled himself in business at the capital upon the funds supplied by Morrison, to whom he neither forwarded remittances or accounted for the proceeds of the adventure. It was to collect the amount due the merchant of Kaskaskia that Dr. Robinson, of Pike's party, proceeded to Santa Fe, as mentioned in the preceding chapter. It was in 1805 that James Pursley, famous as the first to discover gold in what is now Colorado, entered New- Mexico. A native of Baird's Town, Kentucky, he left St. Louis in 1803 with three companions and traveled to the THE SANTA FE TRADE. 139 head waters of the Osage River, engaged in trapping and trading with the Indians. After many exciting adventures, in which his daring won for Pursley the title of "The mad American," the four hunters were capsized in a rough canoe of their own construction at the junction of the Osage and Missouri rivers, losing their entire stock of peltries — the fruit of a whole year's hunt. They managed to save arms and ammunition, and soon after were hailed by a Frenchman, who was descending the Missouri to trade with the Mandan Indians. Pursley embarked with him for the voyage, and early in the ensuing spring was sent out on a hunting and trading expedition with a large band of Padu- cahs and Kyaways and a small quantity of merchandise. They were attacked by Sioux and driven from the plains into the mountains of Colorado, whence the unwieldy party — which numbered nearly 2,000 men and 10,000 animals — wandered along the head-waters of the Platte. Here it was that Pursley observed strong indications of gold-bearing deposits and even obtained some of the virgin mineral, which he carried in his shot-pouch for several months. Believing, however, that he would never succeed in reaching a civilized region, and feeling that the precious metal was worthless in the wilderness, he threw his samples away from sheer weariness and disgust. After journeying some distance along the Platte the Indians, knowing they must be now close to New Mexico, sent Pursley and several of their number to Santa Fe to see if the Spanish authorities would allow them to enter the province and trade with the people. This request was granted by Governor Alencaster, and the Indians returned for the remainder of the company, who after disposing of their merchandise at profitable prices departed for the East. But Pursley, now that he had at last reached a civilized community, did not choose to trust himself to the perilous journey across the plains. He reached Santa Fe in June, 1805, and established himself as a carpenter in that city. In 1807 he was seen by Lieutenant Pike, who describes him as having made a great deal of money, and being a man of strong natural sense and un- 140 HISTORY OP NEW MEXICO. doubted intrepidity. Although well treated by the authori- ties Pursley was placed under continual surveillance ; he was forbidden to write or send any communication to the East, and was obliged to give bonds that he would not leave the country without permission from the government. This was probably due to his having imprudently men- tioned his discovery to the Spaniards, who were very anx- ious that he should conduct a detachment of cavalry to the spot where the gold had been found. But the sturdy pioneer, believing the locality to be within the territory of the United States, obstinately refused to divulge the secret, — for which firmness the citizens of the Centennial State certainly owe him their deepest gratitude. For the next five years nothing is known of any Span- ish-American intercourse, though it is probable that a frag- mentary traffic was kept up ; but the return of Lieutenant Pike and the relation of his travels, published in 1810, stimulated general interest in the subject. The lieutenant's account of the high prices prevailing throughout the North Mexican provinces, and the immense profits to be reaped by enterprising traders, spread like wildfire through the eastern settlements, and many of the adventurous frontiers- men — hunters, traders, and trappers, the typical pioneers of those days — determined to make their way across the un- known region of Louisiana t<* this new land of promise. In 1812 an expedition was organized under the direction of Kobert McKnight, James Beard, Peter Chambers, and several others, in all a party of nine or ten. Believing that the revolutionary movement under Hidalgo, in 1810, had completely removed the old restrictions on trade, which rendered all foreign intercourse, except by special permis- sion of the Spanish government, illegal, they crossed the prairies to New Mexico, following the directions of Lieuten- ant Pike. Their route, the only one then known, was westward to the Colorado mountains and thence down the Rio Grande to Taos ; and after a long but uneventful journey they succeeded in reaching Santa Fe. Their arrival at the capital could not have been at a more inopportune THE SANTA FE TRADE. 141 moment. The liberal principles fostered by Hidalgo had just been vigorously quenched, the revolutionary leader had been arrested and shot, the royalists were once more supreme, and all foreigners, but especially Americans, were believed to be the agents of a new revolution and were objects of the most intense suspicion. The unfortunate traders, who were as yet hardly aware of their dangerous situation, were instantly arrested as spies, their entire stock of merchandise confiscated, and themselves taken to the calabozas of Chihuahua and Durango, where they were rigorously confined for the space of nine years. During this period several efforts were made for their release by Congressman Scott of Missouri, and letters were sent by Secretary Adams to the king of Spain and the viceroy of Mexico, but nothing was effected, and it was not until 1822, when the revolutionary party under Iturbide became once more predominant, that the unfortunate Americans were set at liberty by order of the new emperor of Mexico. Before the return of McKnight and his unlucky com- panions, and in the year 1815, Julius de Mun and Auguste P. Choteau proceeded with a large party to the waters of the Upper Arkansas, where they engaged in hunting and trading with the savages. A year later they entered New Mexico and visited Taos and Santa Fe ; at the latter place they were hospitably received by Governor Mainez, who gave them full liberty to hunt and trade north of the Red Eiver and east of the mountains. Notwithstanding this permission, in June, 1817, during the governorship of Don Pedro Allande, a force of Spanish dragoons arrested Choteau, De Mun, and twenty-four others, and brought them to Santa Fe, also opening the caches made by the trappers and taking articles to the value of over thirty thou- sand dollars. At the capital the Americans were court- martialed, imprisoned for two days, and dismissed, without recovering their property. They immediately returned to St. Louis and entered a suit for damages against the ISTew Mexican authorities ; the action dragged on until 1886, and it is not known if it was ever definitely settled. 142 HISTOEY OF NEW MEXICO. Notwithstanding the personal misfortunes of these early- adventurers, their narratives only induced others to fit out expeditions. In 1822 an Ohio merchant named Glenn, who kept a small trading station at the mouth of the Verdigris River, fitted out a party and proceeded by a circuitous route up the Arkansas toward the mountains, encountering many dangers and privations, but finally reaching Santa Fe in safety. In this same year Captain Becknell of Missouri, with four friends, started from the vicinity of Franklin, in his native State, with the intention of trading with the Co- manches. When near the mountains he met a party of Mexican rangers who induced the Americans to accompany them to New Mexico, where, though their stock of mer- chandise was small and of little value, the members of the expedition cleared a handsome profit. The captain re- turned to Missouri alone the following winter," leaving his company at Santa Fe. His favorable reports stimulated others to embark in the trade, and in May, 1823, Colonel Cooper with his sons and about ten others left Franklin with five thousand dollars' worth of goods, transported by pack-horses, and arrived safely at Taos. Captain Becknell's second expedition met with very different fortune ; elated with his former success and confident of still richer profits, he set out with a company of thirty men, carrying five thousand dollars in merchandise. In his eagerness to reach his destination the captain resolved to abandon the circui- tous route heretofore followed, and, having reached the caches on the Arkansas, directed his course straight toward Santa Fe. " With no other guide than the starry heavens, or, it may be, a pocket compass," says Dr. Gregg, "the party embarked upon the arid plains which extended far and wide before them to the Cimarron River. The adven- turous band pursued their forward course without being able to procure any water except the scanty supply they carried in their canteens ; this was completely exhausted after two days' march, and the sufferings of the men and beasts drove them almost to distraction. They were re- duced to the cruel necessity of killing their dogs and cutting THE SANTA PE TKADE. 143 off' the ears of their mules in the vain hope of assuaging their burning thirst with the hot blood ; this only served to irritate the parched palate and madden the senses of the sufferers. Frantic with despair, in prospect of the horrible death which stared them in the face, they scattered in every direction in search of water. Frequently led astray by the deceptive glimmer of the mirage, or false ponds, as these treacherous oases of the desert are called, they resolved to retrace their steps to the Arkansas, but were unequal to the task and would undoubtedly have perished had not a buffalo, fresh from the riverside, with a stomach distended with water, been discovered just as the last rays of hope were receding. The hapless intruder was dispatched and a draught procured from its stomach. I have since heard one of the party declare that nothing ever passed his lips that gave him such exquisite delight as his first draught of that filthy beverage. This relief enabled some of the strongest men of the party to reach the river, where they filled their canteens and hurried back to the assistance of their comrades. By degrees they were all enabled to renew . their journey, and following the course of the Arkansas for several days, succeeded in reaching Taos, sixty or seventy miles north of Santa Fe." From 1821-22 may be dated the real commencement of the Santa Fe trade, as from this jDeriod the caravans in- creased in size and value, the worth of the merchandise trans- ported rising gradually from five to eighty thousand dollars. The fall of Spanish authority and the establishment of the Mexican government removed many restrictions from the progress of the intercourse and swelled the ranks of the traders, who found the profits of their enterprises enormous, even considering the cost and difficulty of transportation. Before the establishment of trade with the United States, New Mexico had depended entirely upon the Spanish market or the fluctuating products of Mexico for her sup- plies. In accordance with the usual selfish policy of Spain, all manufactured articles were imported to the colonies from Spanish ports, in return for exports of raw 144 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. material. This, although profitable for the mother country^ was hard on the colonists, who were forced to pay exorbi- tant prices for even the cheapest manufactured goods. Indeed, so odious were these restrictions on commerce con- sidered, that in 1771 Viceroy Bucareli informed the king that trade could never prosper in Mexico until the monopoly enjoyed by the merchants of Cadiz should be removed, and begged that the colonists be allowed, at least, to remit their funds to Spain and bring back the return freights in vessels of their own. For this reason also, the war between Spain and England, in the last years of the eighteenth century, was of great advantage to Mexico, for, as the seas were filled with the enemy's cruisers, the Spaniards dared not send out large amounts of specie and their trade was con- fined chiefly to exports from the mother country. Thus the immense product of the Mexican mines was retained in the country and home industries flourished, many of the internal provinces, and the cities of Oaxaca, Guadalajara, and Ixtlahnaca, manufacturing large quantities of silk, cotton, and wool. Notwithstanding this growing activity in Mexican commerce, these infant industries were as yet inadequate to supply the demand, and all manufactured articles commanded extravagant prices, especially in the northern provinces, where the expense of transportation was added to the original cost — the citizens of Santa Fe paying two and three dollars per tiara, or Mexican yard of thirty- three inches, for the coarsest calicoes and cheapest domestic cloths. It can easily be imagined that the reports of these prices and the proflts attendant upon them should have impelled American merchants to send their goods to these remunerative markets, where the gains of one expedition doubled the co^t of outfit and transportation. The next event of importance in the annals of the Santa Fe trade was the introduction of wagons ; up to 1824 all goods were transported by pack mules, which necessarily limited the amount and value of the freight ; but in that year the caravans which departed from Missouri employed not only the usual quota of mules, but twenty-five wheeled THE SANTA FB TRADE. 145 vehicles, principally what were then called "Dearborn carriages." The experiment proved entirely successful and from this period wagons were exclusively used, some of them being of great size and drawn by ten or twelve mules. In the first years of the trade horses were nsed to draw the vehicles as mules were scarce and expensive, but as soon as the latter could be procured in abundance horses were dis- carded save for riding purpose. In 1829 oxen were tried and found, much to the surprise of the traders, to be perfectly capable of performing the duties of the trip. From this time onward the number of oxen and mules employed in the busi- ness was about equal, the superiority of the former in cheapness and strength being balanced by the greater endurance and speed of the latter. The starting-point of the caravans was at first Franklin on the Missouri River, one hundred and fifty miles west of St. Louis, but in 1831 the proportions of the trade had so in- creased that some spot nearer the western frontier was con- sidered necessary, and the choice fell upon Independence, situated about twelve miles from what is now Kansas, then known as "the Indian border," and three miles south of the Missouri River. This place gradually became the point of outfit, departure, and debarkation ; here repaired the ad- venturer about to embark in his trading enterprise ; here were procured provisions, mules, oxen, and sometimes wagons ; and here the final preparations for the long journey across the plains were made. Not only was Independence the starting-point of the Santa Fe caravans, but the Rocky Mountain traders and trappers, and the emigrants to Oregon took this town in their route. During the season of depar- ture — which was usually in May — it was a place of much bustle and activity ; "here," says Gregg, "were seen men of every class, with a little sprinkling of the softer sex. The fustian frock of the city-bred merchant, furnished with a multitude of pockets, capable of containing a variety of extra tackling; the backwoodsman in linsey or leather hunting-shirt ; the farmer, with his blue jean coat, and the wagoner, with flannel-sleeved vest." Among the weapons 146 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. noted were "the rifle for the frontiersman, the double- barreled fowling piece for the sportsman, scatter guns, repeating arms, pistols, and knives." The task of organiz- ing a caravan was no light one ; the first step was the election of an oflicer entitled " Captain of the Caravan," who was commander of the expedition, and whose author- ity was never questioned. By him each proprietor was notified to furnish a list of his men and wagons ; if the company was a large one all the vehicles were divided into lour divisions, and a lieutenant was ajppointed whose duty it was to inspect every ravine and creek along the route, select the crossings, superintend the encampment, and gen- erally look after the arrangement of the wagons ; watches were also appointed, usually eight in number, to stand guard a quarter of each alternate night. Besides personal arms the caravan often carried one or two small cannons, mounted on carriages. The merchandise was packed with the utmost care, a task requiring no little skill, but in which many became adepts, filling the wagons with such evenness that on their arrival at Santa Fe not one article would be disturbed or injured. A " Santa Fe assortment," as it was called, consisted generally of merchandise such as was usually seen in the smaller retail stores of the East, viz : woolen and cotton goods, silks, hardware, notions, etc. The principal articles in demand were cotton velvets and , domestic cottons ; the latter, which were by far the most called for, were brown, unbleached, and blue, and formed almost half of every assortment ; in spite of their ready sale, however, they were the most unprofitable articles taken, on account of their weight and the heavy duty im- posed upon them by the Mexican authorities who, in 1837, issued a decree prohibiting the entrance of all shirtings, calicoes, and drillings. American manufactures alone were in demand, the Bi'itish cottons being much less durable, and of lighter texture. Besides the merchandise, provis- ions for the men were carried, consisting chiefly of bacon, flour, coffee, sugar, and salt — buffaloes furnishing all the fresh meat used on the journey. THE SANTA FE TKADE. 147 The train left Independence in detached parties and rendezvoused at Council Grove, about one hundred and fifty miles distant on a branch of the Neosho River ; here all arrangements were completed for the journey, the "Catch up ! catch up ! " of the captain rang out from his station in the foremost wagon, the answering shouts of " All's set ! " from the drivers proclaimed that everything was in readiness, and in a few moments the caravan was on its way to Santa Fe. The appearance of these long lines of white-topped vehicles was singularly impressive ; the wagons advanced slowly in four parallel columns but in broken lines, often with considerable intervals between ; the unceasing "Crack! crack!" of the wagoners' whips, resembling the distant report of musketry, sounded almost as if two hostile parties were engaged in a skirmish. The rear wagons were usually left without a guard, as the horse- men all preferred to be in front, where they could be seen moving in scattered groups sometimes over a mile in advance. The evolutions of the wagons were intricate and required much skill on the part of the drivers ; when marching four abreast the two exterior lines spread out and then met at the front angle, while the two near lines kept close together until they reached the point of the rear angle when they wheeled suddenly out and closed with the hinder ends of the other two, thus systematically conclud- ing a right-lined quadrangle with a gap left at the rear cor- ner for the introduction of the animals. Every night the wagons were formed into a hollow square, acting as a defense against Indians and a temporary corral for the cattle; outside of this square the camp fires burned and the traders slept, while those whose turn it was to watch kept guard. The difiiculties of the route were all sur- mounted by (he energy of the travelers ; in many places temporary bridges of long grass or brush covered with earth were made, and sometimes "buffalo boats" were con- structed by stretching hides over empty wagon-bodies or frames of poles. As the wagons approached within two hundred miles of 148 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Santa Fe a party of avant couriers, known in the parlance of the prairies as "runners," pushed on in advance to the capital ; they were generally proprietors or agents, and their purpose was to procure and send back a supply of provisions, to secure good accommodations for the merchan- dise, and, what was no less important, come to an "agree- able understanding" with the custom-house officials. When the crossing of the Ked River was reached the caravan was met and accompanied for the remainder of the Journey by a Spanish escort provided to prevent smug- gling ; here, also, a branch of the expedition usually pro- ceeded westward to Taos. Five or six days later and the long expected goal appeared in sight ; great was the exultation as wagon after wagon descended the steep declivities to Santa Fe ; the little cannons hred enthu- siastic salutes, the muleteers cheered vociferously, and all was rejoicing and confusion. "I doubt, in short," says Gregg, " whether the first sight of the walls of Jerusalem were beheld by the crusaders with more tumultuous and soul-enrapturing joy." "The arrival," continues the same writer, " produced a great deal of bustle and excitement among the natives. ' Los Americanos ! ' ' Los Garros ! ' ' La entrada de la Caratiana ! ' were to be heard in every direction ; and crowds of women and boys flocked around to see the new-comers. The wagoners were by no means free from excitement on this occasion. They had spent the previous morning in ' rubbing ' up and now they were prepared, with clean faces, sleek-combed hair, and their choicest Sunday suit, to meet the fair eyes of glisten- ing black that were sure to stare at them as they passed. There was yet another preparation to be made in order to show off to advantage ; each one must tie a brand-new cracker to the lash of his whip, for on driving through the streets and \\v% plaza publica, every one strived to outvie his comrades in the dexterity with which he flourished this favorite badge of his authority." The contents of the wagons were soon transferred, to the warerooms of the custom-house, and the members of the THE SANTA FE TRADE. 149 expedition spent a few days in recovering from the fatigue of their tedious journey ; the wagoners and traders re- paired in throngs to the numerous fandangoes which were kept up for some time after the arrival of a caravan, while the merchants were actively employed in more important labors, each endeavoring to get his goods through the custom-house before his neighbor, and to supply the country dealers on their annual visit to the capital. "The dereclios de arancel (tariff imposts) of Mexico," to quote again from Gregg, "are extremely oppressive, averaging about one hundred per cent, upon the United States' cost of an ordinary Santa Fe assortment. Those on cotton textures are particularly so. According to the arancel of 1837 — and it was still heavier before — all plain- wove cottons, whether white or printed, pay twelve and a half cents duty per vara, besides the derecTio de consumo (consumption duty), which brings it up to at least fifteen. For a few years Grovernor Armijo, of Santa Fe, established a tariff of his own, entirely arbitrary, — exacting five hundred dollars for each wagon load, whether large or small, of fine or coarse goods ! Of course this was very advantageous to such traders as had large wagons and costly assortments, while it was no less onerous to those with smaller vehicles or coarse, heavy goods. As might have been anticipated, the traders soon took to conveying their merchandise only in the largest wagons, drawn by ten or twelve mules, and omitting the coarser and more weighty articles of trade. This caused the governor to return to the ad valorem system, though still without regard to the arancel general of the nation." On about the first of September, four or five weeks after the arrival of the caravan, the return trip was commenced ; the number of wagons was greatly reduced, many of those taken being sold in the province, and the return cargo— the profits of the expedition— was of specie (gold-dust or silver bullion), furs, buffalo rugs, wool, and Mexican blankets. The loads weighed generally about twelve hun- dred pounds, and while the outward journey occupied at 150 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. least seventy days, the homeward trip seldom exceeded forty ; indeed, in 1851, Frank X. Aubrey, a young Cana- dian and well-known scout, made the distance from Santa Fe to Independence in five days and ten hours, his own fleet mare, Nellie, carrying him over one hundred and fifty miles. When the trade was well established several petitions were sent to Congress by the people of Missouri, request- ing that a road might be marked out and treaties made vs^ith the Indian tribes ; in January, 1825, a bill was passed granting both these requests and appropriating $30,000 for their execution. The work was never completed, however, although energetically begun by the commissioners, Messrs. Reeves, Mathews, and Sibley, and the surveyor, J. C. Brown, who made a treaty with the Osages and commenced the survey. "The line of the proposed road," says Prince, ' ' was determined as far as the Arkansas, and designated by mounds of earth ; but it never seems to have been used by the travelers, who persistently refused to be carried off from the old trail, which had been the route of their predecessors, and which had the sanction of experience if not of scientific engineering. "The first route followed, as we have seen, was by a line almost directly westward to the mountains of Colo- rado, and thence south to Taos. Afterwards, when the trade assumed importance, a road along the Arkansas, and thence southwest to the Raton Pass, following substan- tially the present line of the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fa Railroad, was sometimes used ; but the route which was the ordinary and favorite one for a long series of years was that along the Arkansas, thence across to the Cimarron, and so entering New Mexico, proceeding in an almost direct line to the Wagon Mound — which made a conspicu- ous landmark — and thence to Las Vegas, San Miguel, and Santa Fe." In the spring of 1837, an attempt was made,- principally by Mexican merchants, to establish an indepen- dent trade with Chihuahua, leaving Santa Fe entirely out of the intercourse ; but, though begun with much enthusi- THE SANTA FE TRADE. 151 asm, it was found a losing enterprise and speedily aban- doned. The famous scout and Indian fighter Kit Carson first gained his renown by his skill and daring in guiding parties over the Santa Fe trail, his own first trip having been made as far back as 1826 ; another well-known scout was Colonel A. G. Boone, grandson of the famous Daniel, who is said to have been able to speak all the Indian languages. Among the early traders and pioneers was James L. Collins, afterwards superintendent of Indian affairs in the Territory, who arrived at Santa Fe in 1827, with a caravan of fifty-three wagons, the largest up to that period. In 1831, Joseph Gregg, whose book, "The Com- merce of the Prairies," is the authority on all matters per- taining to the trade, made his first trip, and in this same year Captain Jedediah Smith, the well-known Rocky Mountain pioneer, met his death. He had been separated from his party and wandered across the plains in search of water ; at last a small stream was found, but as the captain stooped to drink he was pierced by a Comanche arrow and died instantly. In 1833, Charles Bent was captain of the annual caravan, which numbered ninety-three wagons, and the following year Thomas Kerr commanded an expedition the profits of which amounted to nearly $200,000. Among the traders of 1835 was the celebrated Captain Sutter, who established himself in business in Santa Fe, leaving that city for California in 1838. In the early years of the trade there was little trouble from the Indians, but as the proportion of the traffic in- creased and the annual caravans, the period of their passage, and their value, became known to the savages. many cruel attacks were made, and the Indians were ever prepared to swoop down upon any straggling bands of traders on their homeward journey or small parties insufii- ciently supplied with arms, who considered themselves fortunate to escape with only the loss of their animals or goods. The first encounter of this kind recorded took place in 1826, when a party of twelve returning traders 152 HISTORY or NEW MEXICO. encamped upon the banks of the Cimarron with only four guns between them ; here they were visited by a band of Indians, who noticed their defenseless condition, and after making friendly demonstrations withdrew, only to return with about thirty warriors, each carrying a lasso. They informed the Americans that they wanted some horses, and the traders, unable to resist so large a force, gave them one apiece. But the Indians were not yet contented, each brave must now have two horses. " Well, catch them!" was the acquiescent reply of the unlucky band ; uywn which the savages mounted the animals they had just obtained, and swinging their lassoes over their heads plunged among the stock with furious yells, and drove off the entire . caballada of five hundred head of horses, mules, and asses. The first murder committed by Indians took place in 1826. Two young men, members of a returning party, named McNees and Monroe, baving fallen asleep by a stream since known as McNees' Creek, were barbarously shot with their own guns in full sight of their caravan. The bodies were buried on the banks of the Cimarron Eiver, and as the companions of the murdered men were engaged in performing these last services a small party of Indians, who probably had no knowledge of the recent outrage, were seen to advance on the opposite side of the stream. The traders, burning with fury and a desire for vengeance, opened fire upon the savages, all but one of whom were killed. The survivor bore the tidings to his tribe, who, in their turn, pursued the caravan for days and finally suc- ceeded in carrying off one thousand head of stock, although the traders managed to escape. Not satisfied with this bloodless revenge, the Indians a little later attacked a com- pany of twenty men on their homeward trip, killing one and taking all the animals, thus compelling each of the traders to carry his share of the proceeds on his back to the banks of the Arkansas, where it was cached until a convey- ance to the United States could be procured ; these shares amounted to one thousand dollars each, or a load of eighty pounds in silver bullion to each man. THE SANTA FE TEADB. 153 These repeated outrages induced the traders to apply for government protection, and in 1829 a United States escort of three companies of infantry and one of dragoons under Major Riley was detailed to accompany the caravan of that year past the most dangerous portions of the route. The escort stopped at Chouteau's Island, in the Arkansas, but as soon as the traders adva.nced without its protection they were attacked by Kiowas and one man was killed, the as- sailants disappearing in safety before the arrival of the troops, who were at once summoned. Major Riley and his men remained on the Arkansas until the autumn, when they accompanied the returning caravans to Independence. This was the only protection afforded by the United States until 1834, in which year sixty dragoons under Captain Wharton acted as special escort, and again in 1843, when large detachments under Captain Cooke escorted two dif- ferent caravans as far as the Arkansas. From 1831 the dangers and difficulties which had hith- erto enveloped the Santa Fe trade diminished, and the number of Indian attacks decreased. But the first and second Texan Santa Fe expeditions, which are treated of in the following chapter, had a serious effect upon the traf- fic, as President Santa Anna, by a decree of August 7th, 1843, closed the Taos custom-house and the northern portions of the Mexican Republic to all commerce, — the order to go into effect in forty-five days. "Should the obnoxious decree be repealed," says Gregg, writing at that period, "the trade will doubtless be prosecuted with re- newed vigor and enterprise." And on March 31st, 1844, it was repealed, the ports were re-opened, and the traflSc con- tinued to be as large, although not quite as profitable, as before. "Some general statistics of the Santa Fe trade," says Dr. Gregg, "may prove not wholly without interest to the mercantile reader. With this view I have prepared the following table of the probable amount of merchandise in- vested in the Santa Fe trade from 1822 to 1843, and about the portion of the same transferred to the Southern mar- 154 HISTORY or NEW MEXICO. kets (chiefly Chihualiua) during the same period ; together with the approximate number of wagons, men, and proprietors, engaged each year : Years. Amount Mdse. Wag- ons. Men. Propri- etors. Train to Chiliaaliua. Eemarke. 1832 15,000 70 60 Pack-animals only used. 1823 12,000 50 30 fi it 1824 35,000 26 100 80 3,000 and wagons. 1825 65,000 37 130 90 5,000 (< <( 1826 90,000 60 100' 70 7,000 Wagons only henceforth. 1837 85,000 55 90 50 8,000 * 1838 150,000 100 300 80 30,000 Three men killed, being the first. 1829 60,000 30 50 20 5,000 IstU. S. Escort — one trader killed. 1830 120,000 70 140 60 20,000 First oxen used by traders. 1831 250,000 130 330 80 80,000 Two men killed. 1832 140,000 70 150 40 50,000 S Party defeated on Canadian, 3 1833 180,000 105 1 185 60 80,000 1 ( killed, 8 perished. 1834 150,000 80 , 160 50 70,000 j3d U. S. Escort. 1835 140,000 75 140 40 70,000 1836 130,000 70 135 35 60,000 1837 150,000 80 160 35 80,000 1838 90,000 50 100 30 40,000 , 1839 250,000 130 250 40 100,000 Arkansas Expedition. 1840 50,000 30 60 5 10,000 Chihuahua Expedition. 1841 150,000 60 100 13 80,000 Texan Santa Fe Expedition. 1843 160,000 70 120 15 90,000 1843 450,000 230 350 30 300,000 8d U. S. Escort— Ports closed." From the time of its re-establishment in 1844 the Santa Fe trade continued without interruption, many wealthy TN'ew Mexican merchants taking part in the business. It was not seriously affected by the war with Mexico, for the caravan of 1846, in which year Santa Fe was taken by the United States troops, contained 414 wagons and merchandise to the value of $1,752,250. Under American government the intercourse flourished ; not only were the Territories of New Mexico and Arizona supplied, but the northern parts of Mexico also became a market for Ameri- can goods. With the gradual extension of the railroads, however, the starting-place moved further and further westward, the forwarding establishment being transferred from Hays City, Kansas, to Sheridan, Kit Carson, Granada, La Junta, El Moro, Las Vegas, and so onward until the railroads were in operation throughout the Territory and no other mode of transportation was necessary. CHAPTEE XI. TWENTY-POUR YEARS OF MEXICAN RULE. 1822-1846. Eapid Succession of Political Chiefs— Chavez, Conde, Viscara, Vaca— Changes in the Province— Narbona, Armijo, Chavez, Political Chiefs— Expulsion of the Cachupines— The " Old Placers "—Bents' Fort— Abreu and Chavez, Political Chiefs— Appointment of Albino Perez— General Tax Law— Rebellion of 1837- "Plan" of the Insurgents— Their Success— Murder of Perez— Of Santiago Abreu and Others— The Insurgents at Santa Pe— Armijo's Counter- Re volution— TheRebellion Crushed— Armijo's Administration— The "New Placers "—Early Settlers- First Texan Santa Fe Expedi- tion—New Mexico under Arms— Purpose of the Expedition— The March— The Expedition Separates— Small Advance Party— At Anton Chico— Captivity— Ho wland and Baker Shot— Capture of Cook's Party— Surrender of the Main Body— The Prisoners Taken to Mexico— Rejoicing in New Mexico— A Second Texan Expedition Reported — New Mexican Preparations— Chavez Murdered by McDaniel's Party— Warfield's Raid on Mora— Snively's Mishaps- Return of the Texans— Effects of the Expedition— Martinez- Chavez — Armijo's Rule. THE change from Spanish to Mexican rule made little actual difference in the internal administration of 'New Mexico, which was too far removed from the scene of conflict to be deeply affected by it ; the rapid succession of territorial rulers, now known as political chiefs, was the principal indication of a disturbed condition. Melgares, the last governor for Spain, was succeeded on July 5th, 1822, by Francisco Xavier Chavez, although Alejo Garcia Conde and Antonio Yiscara each administered during that same year. Bartolome Vaca was appointed to the office in 1823. On the 10th of September, 1822, New Mexico had been declared one of the five Internal Provinces, subject to the military commandante at Chihuahua, a declaration in no way changing the royal organization of 1776, previously given. In 1824, however, it was Joined to the provinces of 155 156 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Chihuahua and Durango, the three to be known as the Interior States of the Korth, with the capital at Chihua- hua, — an arrangement to which Durango refused to sub- mit ; and the southern provinces were finally made States, with the El Paso district added to Chihuahua, while New Mexico was erected into a territory. Antonio Narbona became political chief in 1825, to be succeeded in 1827 by Manuel Armijo, who remained in office for a year. Jose Antonio Chavez ruled in 1828 ; although the changes of administration from the time of the downfall of the royal government were rapid and ill- deiined, they were comparatively tranquil, save for the usual hostilities of Apaches and Navajoes. During this term, however, the territory was shaken by a wave of the revolutionary fury raging in Mexico, through whose streets the cry of "Death to the Cachupines ! " followed by the rush of the mob, had frequently echoed since 1810. No violence had hitherto been offered this caste in New Mexico, but in 1828 they were formally expelled from the territory in obedience to a law of the Republican Congress. The grief this edict inflicted upon the brave hidalgos, who had won their homes by their swords and held them by con- stant watchfulness against a savage foe, may be imagined ; many, it is said, joined the Santa Fe caravans of that and the following year and came to the United States. A number of Franciscan friars were among the exiles, but two, in consideration of their great age, were allowed to remain upon the payment of live hundred dollars each. In this year, also, gold was found in the district now known as the " Old Placers," and the fame of this discovery naturally attracted many strangers. In 1829, Bent's Fort, one of the first examples of American enterprise in New Mexico, was built upon the Arkansas ; it was one hundred and eighty feet long and one hundred and thirty feet wide, the walls, which were of adobe, were fifteen feet high and four feet thick. This fort became one of the most cele- brated trading posts on the frontier — the gathering place of hunters, trappers, traders, and teamsters. TWENTT-FOUJi YEABS OF MEXICAN RULE. 157 Santiago Abreu succeeded as political chief in 1831, and was followed in 1833 by Francisco Saracino ; the principal event of the latter' s administration appears to have been the visit of the bishop of Durango, who made an extended tour through the territory and was received with great enthusiasm. Mariano Chavez acted as political chief for a brief period, beginning in 1835 ; but was succeeded in the same year by Albino Perez, whose appointment was one in a succession of circumstances which finally culminated in a bloody rebellion. Perez was a stranger, not identified in any way with the interests of the territory, and the people, who naturally preferred a native governor, received him coldly. The following year the disbursing officers of the territory were charged with peculation, and two of the three judges of the supreme court were among those ac- cused of complicity ; the action of the governor in the case was considered arbitrary and great indignation was excited among the New Mexicans. In 1886, the Mexican Republic adopted a new "plan," known as the "Central Constitu- tion of 1836," by which the supreme power was vested in the executive and national congress ; and the States were changed into departments under the command of military governors, responsible to the chief national authorities in- stead of the people. Accordingly, New Mexico became a department and her political chief a military governor ; furthermore, the Mexican Congress passed a general tax law, which Governor Perez was called upon to put into exe- cution in 1837. This was the first time the New Mexicans had been subjected to a direct tax, and the efl^ect upon an excited, angry people may be imagined. The popular in- dignation was most intense in the north, and there the revolutionary flame was kindled: An alcalde of the northern district was arrested and imprisoned for some alleged misdemeanor ; the people surrounded the prison, released the prisoner, and, bearing him off in triumph, set up the standard of rebellion at La Canada (Santa Cruz), , twenty-five miles north of Santa Fe. The camp was soon thronged with the disaffected. 158 HISTORY OP NEW MEXICO.. among whom were the principal warriors of all the northern pueblos except San Juan and Santo Domingo. The out- break occurred on the 1st of August ; on the 3d, the follow- ing " plan " of government was proclaimed : " Viva God and the nation, and the faith of Jesus Christ ; for the principal points which we defend are the following : ' ' First. To be with God and the nation, and the faith of Jesus Christ. "Second.- To defend our country until we spill every drop of our blood in order to obtain the victory we have in view. " Third. Not to admit the departmental "plan." "Fourth. Not to admit any tax. "Fifth. Not to admit tlie disorder desired by those who are at- tempting to procure it. God and the nation. " Encampment, " Santa Cruz de la Canada, August 3d, 1837." The news of the revolt excited great alarm in Santa Fe, and Grovernor Perez immediately assembled the militia, only about one hundred and fifty of whom responded, in- cluding the warriors of San Juan and Santo Domingo. With this inadequate force he marched against the insur- gents, whom, he encountered the next day upon the mesa of San Ildefonso, when the government troops broke their ranks and affiliated with the enemy . Nothing was left to Perez and the few that remained faithful to his fortunes but to seek safety in flight from the fury of the revolution- ists. For two days the fugitives were hunted from one hiding-place to another ; finally the governor was tracked by the Indians to the house of Don Salvador Martinez and murdered, his body mangled, and his head borne to the camp of the insurgents. That same day the Indians cap- tured Don Jesus Maria Alarid, secretary of state, and dis- patched him a la IcDizado, viz.: by repeated thrusts of their lances. Don Santiago Abreu, formerly governor, was also taken and put to death with the most shocking cruelty. Don Eamon Abreu, prefect of Rio Arriba, Don Marcelino Abreu, brother of the ex-governor, Lieutenant Madrigal, and several others, were seized at the ranches TWENTY-FOUR YEAES OF MEXICAN RULE. 159 where they had sought refuge, and killed. On the day following these outrages, the 10th of August, the insurgents entered Santa Fe and proceeded to the church, where they offered thanks for their victory. The horrors of a sack were anticipated by the terrified inhabitants, but little, if any, violence was perpetrated ; Jose Gonzales, a Taos In- dian, was chosen as governor and installed in the palace so lately occupied by the ill-fated Perez ; the property of the murdered officials was confiscated ; and the revolution- ists quietly withdrew from Santa Fe and returned to their villages. On the 27th of August a general assembly, composed of the alcaldes and leading men of the northern section, was convened in the palace and confirmed the acts of the rebels. Manuel Armijo, who had been political chief in 1827, had in the mean time organized a counter-revolution in the lower country, and now marched upon Santa Fe with a consider- able force. Gonzales did not feel himself sufficiently strong to await the attack and fell back upon La Canada, the gathering place of the northern insurgents. Armijo then entered Santa Fe ; took possession of the palace ; pro- claimed himself commandante-general ; and dispatched a courier to Mexico with an account of the revolc and his successful efforts to suppress it. In return he was appoint- ed governor of the department of New ^Mexico for weight years, and four hundred men from Chihuahua and Zaca- tecas, under Colonel Justiniani, were sent to aid in restoring peace. With this reenforcement General Armijo marched against La Canada, defeated the insurgents on January 27th, 1838, and captured the leaders, Jose Gonzales, De- siderio Montoya, Antonio Abed Montoya, and the alcalde Esquibel, who were sentenced and shot within two hundred yards of the plaza of Santa Fe. These prompt measures effectually extinguished the rebellion of 1887. The next four years of Armijo' s administration were comparatively quiet ; the custom-house was established at Taos in 1837, and the "New" gold placers discovered in 1839; "Americanos " were no longer a novelty, many who 160 HISTORY OP NEW MEXICO. came to trade establishing themselves permanently in the country, as Mr. Roubidoux, Charles Beaubien, Colonel Ceran St. Vrain, Charles Bent, and Kit Carson, all of whom settled at Taos during this administration and became men of note in the territory. The advance of the Santa Fe trade awakened the commercial spirit of the people and revealed to the more far-sigJited the marvelous possibilities of New Mexico, possibilities which there was small chance of de- veloping under the selfish and shifting policy of the Mexican government, and there is no doubt that many of the most prominent and intelligent citizens of New Mexico sympathized with the revolt of '87, in as far as it was directed against that government, though they were in no way accessory to the barbarities which accompanied it. The fact that this sympathy existed was known and so greatly exaggerated in Texas, that, in 1841, an expedition was fitted out in that State, ostensibly for trade, but strong enough to insure the success of a second revolution if the New Mexicans were ripe for it. News of the projected in- vasion was soon brought to New Mexico, where it created great excitement ; terrible stories were repeated of the ferocity of the Texans, who would, it was said, put to fire and sword every town they passed through, and the authorities placed the country in a state of defense. A close, watch was set upon the foreign residents ; Captain Damasio Salazar with a strong force was detailed to guard the eastern frontier ; another force was under the command of Colonel Juan Andreas Archuleta ; while Governor Ar- mijo purposed to place himself at the head of the pre- sidial troops, leaving Prefect Antonio Sandoval to act as governor j?ro tern. Meanwhile, the Texan expedition had started from Austin, June 18th, 1841. It consisted of five companies of cavalry and one of artillery, under Brigadier-General Hugh McLeod ; a party of traders, with goods suitable to the market drawn in wagons ; a number who "went for pleasure"; and three commissioners, supplied with pro- clamations setting forth to the New Mexicans the advan- TWENTY-FOUR YEARS OF MEXICAN RULE. 161 tages to be gained by coming under tlie Texan flag. The adventures of the party are graphically related by George W. Kendall, editor of the New Orleans Picayune, at that time an invalid, who joined the expedition hoping to gain health in the far-famed climate of New Mexico, and supposing that the enterprise was a commercial one ; the Texan authorities, he understood, being anxious to open a direct trade with Santa Fe by a nearer route than the great Missouri trail. It was not until they were upon the march that he learned that their intention was to " bring as much of the province of New Mexico as lies upon the east side of the Rio del Norte (Texas claimed the Rio del Norte as her western boundary) under the protection of the Texan government. This project was founded upon the belief that nine tenths of the people were discontented with the Mexican yoke and anxious to come under the flag to which they really owed fealty. Should the inhabitants manifest a disposition to declare their full allegiance to Texas, the flag of the single-star republic would be raised? on the government house at Santa Fe ; but, if not, the Texan com- missioners were merely to make such an arrangement with the authorities as should tend to the opening of a trade, and then retire." "The long train of wagons, moving heavily forward, with the different companies of volunteers, all well mounted and well armed and riding in double file, presented an imposing as well as an animating spectacle, causing every heart to beat high with the anticipation of exciting inci- dents upon the boundless prairie ! " Notwithstanding this encouraging departure, the march was a most severe one, leading through an unbroken wilderness, where the party suffered from hostile Indians, cold, thirst, and hunger, being obliged to kill their horses for food. On the 11th of August, they believed themselves within seventy or eighty miles of San Miguel, and sent forward Messrs. Ilowland, Baker, and Rosenberg, to procure provisions and learn the state of the country, which, however, they never returned to report, as they were captured immediately upon enter- 162 HISTOEY OF NEW MEXICO. ing the territory, strictly confined, and finally shot. The unwieldy party had separated, eighty-seven soldiers and twelve civilians, under Colonel Cook and Captain Sutton, pushing on ahead ; General McLeod remaining in com- mand of the main body, whose progress was necessarily slow. Cook's party were nearly starved when they arrived at a sheep ranch on the Rio Galliuas, where they were well supplied with food ; and five men, Captain Lewis, of the artillery, who spoke Spanish, Van Ness, one of the com- missioners, Howard, Fitzgerald, and Kendall, were dis- patched with a letter to the alcalde at San Miguel, stating that their mission was a pacific one and requesting permis- sion to buy food to send back to the main party. When they reached the little town of Anton Chico they learned that the entire militarj'- force of the province was under arms waiting for their expedition, and that they themselves were liable to be shot at any time. They pushed on, how- ever, and the following morning encountered Captain Salazar, who disarmed and searched them ; shortly after they were drawn up to be shot, but Don Gregorio Vigil interceded so effectually tliat their lives were spared. They were then bound and marched to Santa Fe, the one ameliorating cii'cumstance of their miserable condition being the charity of the women, who followed the jaded captives with food and wine, and expressions of pity and sympathy. They were marched from San Miguel to Santa Fe, but met Governor Armijo on the road, who ordered them to be returned to San Miguel and put in close confine- ment ; there, from the window of their prison, they saw Howland and Baker shot. In the mean time Colonel Cook's party was captured by Armijo and Salazar, aided by the treachery of Lewis— who acted as interpreter and betrayed his countrymen,— at Anton Chico, and sent under a strong guard to Mexico. On the f)th of October, the main body under McLeod surrendered to Archuleta, and on the 17th, the last of the unfortunate Texans left San Miguel for the prisons of Mexico. There is little doubt that the hardships insep- TWENTY-FOUR YEARS OF MEXICAN RULE. 163 arable from the march were augmented by unnecessary brutality on the part of Salazar, although the kindness of Creneral Gonzales and Padre Ortiz is gratefully recorded by the prisoners, who arrived in Mexico in February, 1842. Some were released in April, it being proved that they were not Texans and had been ignorant of the object of the ex- pedition ; the rest, after much suffering, were liberated in J une. Governor Armijo divided the captured booty among the soldiers, the traitor Lewis, it is said, receiving a liberal portion ; made 21. feu clejoie of the Texan proclamations on the plaza at Las Vegas ; and returned to Santa Fe, where he was received with enthusiasm. The fate of this expedition excited universal indignation in Texas, and in 1843 an attempt was made to avenge it ; the fact that men were being recruited there for a fresh in- vasion was soon brought over the Santa Fe trail to New Mexico, and Governor Armijo again put the troops in fight- ing order and sent to Chihuahua for reenforcements, whence a detachment was despatched under General Jose Monterede to liis assistance. The threatened invasion, however, reduced itself to a plundering attack upon the Santa Fe caravans, and a raid upon Mora, then the nearest settlement to the Texan line. The first was made in April, 1843, by John McDaniel, a Texan captain, at the head of fifteen men, enlisted on the Missouri border. They were on the way to join another party of marauders when they met the train of Don Antonio Chavez on the Little Arkan- sas, at least one hundred miles within the territory of the United States. The train consisted of two wagons and fifty-five mules, and although Don Antonio had with him from ten to twelve thousand dollars in specie and gold bull- ion, besides a small lot of furs, he traveled with only five servants. The Mexicans were quickly overpowered and the wagons rifled ; each of the robbers obtained about five hundred dollars' worth of booty, with which seven of them started back to the settlements ; the other eight determined to murder Chavez, and the unfortunate Mexican was shot in cold blood ; a considerable amount of gold was found 164 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. upon the body, which the murderers then threw into a neigliboring ravine. Ten of the party were captured and sent to St. Louis, where those implicated in the murder,, including McDaniel, were hanged, and the others im- prisoned. About the same time, the raid was made upon Mora by Colonel Warlield, with a force of twenty- four men. Wartield had expected to Join and co-operate with a large Texan force in an organized attack upon New Mexican set- tlements and the Santa Fe caravans ; but the scheme was not carried out, as, when Warfield's men, after many hard- ships, reached the rendezvous, the Texans had not arrived, and a friendly Indian warned him that a strong force of Mexican cavalry was on his trail. Determined not to retreat without a single blow, the band made a midnight attack upon the Mexicans encamped at the little town of Mora ; five of the surprised party were killed, as many wounded, a quantity of arms and number of horses cap- tured, and, destroying what they could not carry off, the- Texans retreated. The Mexicans soon rallied and started in pursuit, overtaking them and recapturing all the horses ; Warfield and his men with great difficulty escaped on foot, excepting five who were captured and taken, it is supposed, to Santa Fe. The largest of these companies of freebooters was organized by Colonel Snively in Northern Texas, and con- sisted of one hundred and seventy-five men who marched from Georgetown, then the extreme frontier, on the 25th of April, 1843, en route for the Arkansas, where they pur- posed to wait for a rich caravan which was expected to cross Texan territory in June. They reached the river on the 27th of May, encamped, and sent spies across to search for the Santa Fe road ; it was reported eight miles distant and with fresh signs of extensive travel, but it was not known whether they were made by Mexicans or Bent's people, whose station was one hundred and fifty miles higher up. Soon after, the spies brought in the informa- tion that the Mexican caravan would pass on its way to Santa Fe, in eighteen days, and on the 17th of June the TWENTY-FOUR YEARS OF MEXICAN RULE. ' 165 Texans were warned that the caravan was approaching. It consisted of sixty wagons and seventy-five thousand weight of merchandise ; about fifteen of the wagons be- longed to Americans ; they were also informed tliat the whole was guarded by two hundred United States dragoons imder Captain Philip St. George Cooke, detailed to escort it to the Mexican frontier, where Governor Armijo with five hundred men was waiting to receive it. A council was held, and, in spite of some opposition, it was decided thai an attempt should be made- to capture the caravan. On the 19th, the Texans encountered an advance force of Armijo's troops under Yentura Lobato, which they defeated, killing eighteen and taking the rest prisoners. They waited ten days longer for their prize, but the report was spread that the caravan had turned back, and about seventy men withdrew from the command and elected ■Captain Chandler to lead them home ; the remainder, under Snively, advanced upon United States' territory, or what was claimed as such, and encountered a strong force, led by Captain Cooke, who demanded their arms, which they were forced to yield. While the disappointed Texans were hesitating as to what course to pursue, the caravan passed safely to its destination ; Snively then led his men back to Texas, which they reached on the 6th of August. The result of these expeditions was to alienate whatever sympathy the fate of McLeod's command had excited for the Texans ; the killing of Don Antonio Chavez was a most <;ruel outrage, in view of the fact that his family had befriended the Texan prisoners on their march down the Rio Grande, and done much to ameliorate their sufferings ; Mora had long been friendly to foreigners, so that the attack upon it was a stupid conception, of a piece with the killing of the Indians under Ventura Lobato, who had hated Armijo since '37 and who might easily have been won to the Texan cause. The government of Mexico issued an edict on June 17th, 1843, decreeing death to all foreigners entering the country as bandits, or fighting under a flag not recognized by the republic ; and another 166 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. was promulgated by Santa Anna, dated at his palace of Tacubaya. It read as follows : Tacubaya, August 7th, 1843. Article First. — The frontier custom-house of Taos, in the de- partment of New Mexico ; Paso del Norte, and Presidio del Norte, in that of Chihuahua, are entirely closed to all commerce. Article Second. — This decree shall take effect within forty-five days after its publication at the capital of the Eepublic. Fortunately for those whose fortunes were embarked in the Santa Fe trade, this edict was repealed on March 31st, 1844. In September, 1844, Mariano Martinez de Lejanza was appointed acting-governor ; he is mentioned as a pro- moter of education, establishing additional government schools at Santa Fe, and assisting promising young men to a military course. In 1845, Jose Chavez acted as governor for a short time, vi?hen Armijo, who had been suspended by the inspector-general, was reinstated and retained the office until the entrance of the " Army of the West." CHAPTER XII. THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION OP NEW MEXICO, 1S46-1847. Causes of the War with Mexico — Texan Troubles — Hostilities Beguu — American Preparations— General Kearney — A Military Inci- dent — Kearney's Instructions — Arrangement of his Forces — Offi- cers Commanding — Departure of the First Division — The March — Mission of James Magoffin — Private Negotiations — Advance of the Army — At Las Vegas — Tecolote— San Miguel — Pecos — Apache Caiion — Armijo's Flight — Conclusion of Magoffin's Embassy — The Army of the West Enters Santa Fe — Fort Marcy — Americans and Mexicans — Kearney's Proclamation — The General Marches South- ward — At Santo Domingo — Albuquerque — Tom6 — Return to Santa Fe — Departure of Gilpin and Jackson for the Navajo Country — The Kearney Code — Appointment of Officials — Kearney Leaves Santa Fe — Arrival of Colonel Price — Doniphan Ordered to the Navajo Country — Jackson's Detachment — Reid's Expedition — Gil- pin's March — Doniphan's Expedition — Grand Talk with the Nava- joes — Speech of Sarcilla Largo — Treaty Signed — Return of the Troops — How Americans Fight. ryyO trace the chain of events which finally culminated in -A- the occupation of New Mexico by the Americans, and its absorption into the great Confederation of the United States, would require more space than the scope of this work will permit. It is one of the many instances which history presents of the "course of events by which an infinite Providence has caused the advance of the world another degree in its progress to destiny." The first cause was, undoubtedly, the selfish and despotic spirit of the Mexican government, whose republicanism at that period is aptly described as a "hot-house graft on the decayed trunk of despotism." The revolt of Few Mexico, known as the Perez Rebel- 167 168 HISTOEY OE' NEW MEXICO. lion, or the Revolt of '37, against the centralizing policy of the Mexican rulers, has been mentioned in the preceding chapter. Piiebla, Jalisco, Oaxaca, Zacatecas, and Texas, all important Mexican States, rebelled at the same period for precisely the same cause. Texas alone was successful. On the 21st of April, 1836, Santa Anna and his army were completely defeated at San Jacinto by the Texans under General Houston, the Mexican leader being taken prisoner and owing his life to the generosity of the insurgents, whose companions in arms had been butchered by his orders at Goliad and the Alamo. For more than seven years after her well-earned freedom, Texas remained a sovereign State and was recognized as, de facto, an inde- pendent government by the United States, England, France, and Belgium. In 1844 a treaty was concluded by President Tyler with the representatives of Texas for the annexation of that republic to the United States, and in March, 1845, Congress passed a joint resolution annexing Texas to the Union. General Almonte, Mexican minister to the United States, protested against the act of annexa- tion as one of aggression against the Republic of Mexico— although the independence of Texas had been formally recognized in a treaty signed bj^ the president of that lepublic — and demanded his passports. The United States, anxious to maintain peace, emjiowered Mr. John Slidell to treat with the Mexican government, which, however, re- fused to receive him. About this time, General Taylor, who had been stationed with a body of troops at Corpus Christi, Tex., was directed to move his men to the mouth' of the Rio Grande to protect the western frontier of that State. This action inflamed the anger of the Mexicans, who claimed the river Nueces as their eastern boundary, and on the 24th of April, 1846, an attack was made upon Captain Thornton, resulting in the killing and wounding of sixteen Americans. This was the beginning of the war. Congress was in session when the news reached Washington. The President immediately announced the fact, and on the 13th of May, AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF NEW MEXICO. 169 1846, ten millions of dollars were appropriated to carry on the war, and fifty thousand volunteers called for. An Army of the AVest wais formed under Colonel Stephen AV Kear- ney at Fort Leavenworth on the Missouri, with directions to captui'e New Mexico and then proceed across the country to the Pacific and take possession of California. An Army of the Centre, under Brigadier-General Wool, was ordered to march upon Coahuila and Chihuahua ; wliile Major-General Taylor, commanding the Army of Occupation, was expected to carry on the war against the northern and eastern States of the Mexican republic. We, of course, have only to do with the Army of the West in its operations against New Mexico. Colonel Kearney, who was raised to the rank of brigadier- general when placed in command of the Western division, was a hardy frontier lighter and thorough soldier. As an instance of his coolness it is related that " while stationed at Jefferson Barracks he was drilling a brigade on one of the open fields near the post. The maneuver was the simple one of marching in line to the front. An excellent horse- man, he sat with his face toward the troops while his horse was backed in tlie same direction along which the command advanced. Suddenly the horse fell, fastening his rider to the ground, while the brigade was in such a perfect state discipline that not one man came to the general's assistance. Nor was it necessary : the line advanced to within about ten feet of him, when, in a loud and distinct voice, calmly as if he had been in the saddle, Kearney gave the command : ' Fourth company— obstacle— march ! ' The fourth com- pany, which was immediately in front of him, was flanked by its captain in the rear of the other half of the grand division ; the line passed on, and when he was thus left in the rear of his men he gave the command : ' Fourth com- pany into line— march ! ' Then, extricating himself from Ms horse, he passed to the front of the regiment, and exe- cuted the rest of the maneuvers in the series marked out for the day's drill." Greneral Kearney was directed to take possession of New 170 HISTORY OF NEW MEXICO. Mexico, leave a garrison at Santa Fe, and with the remain- der of his force march on to Upper California. His instruc- tions in regard to the civil government of the conquered provinces were as follows: "Should you conquer and take possession of New Mexico and Upper California, or considerable places in either, you will establish a temporary civil government therein, abolishing all arbitrary restric- tions that may exist, so far as it may be done with safety. In performing this duty, it would be wise and prudent ta continue in their employment all such of the existing officers- as are known to be friendly to the United States, and will take the oath of allegiance to them. The duties at the cus- tom house ought at once to be reduced to such a rate as may be barely sufficient to maintain the necessary officers, without yielding an.\' revenue to the government. You may assure- the people of those provinces that it is the wish and design of the United States to provide for them a free government, with the least possible delay, similar to that which exists- in our Territories. They will then be (tailed upon to exer- cise the rights of freemen in electing their own representa- tives to the Territorial Legislature. It is foreseen that what relates to the civil government will be a difficult and un- pleasant part of your duty, and much must necessarily be left to your own discretion." The force with which General Kearney was expected to carry out this stupendous scheme consisted entirely of Missouri volunteers, with the exception of three hundred United States dragoons under Major E. V. Sumner, and a battalion of five hundred Mormons, emigrants, willing to serve a year in consideration of the opportunity afforded to' reach California, and of their being paid and allowed to settle there. Kearney's command was in two divisions. The first, or army of conquest, which he led to New Mexico, comprised a regiment of cavalry in eight companies, num- bering eight hundred and fifty-six men, rank and file ; the officers were Colonel Alexander W. Doniphan, Lieutenant Colonel C. F. Ruff, Major W. Gilpin, and Captains Waldo; Walton, Moss, Hied, Stephenson, Parsons, Jackson, and AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF NEW MEXICO. 171 Rogers. A battalion of light ai'tillery, two hundred and fifty men, under Major Clark, consisted of two companies from St. Louis led by Captains Weightman and Fischer. A battalion of infantry, one hundred and forty-five men, also in two companies, under Captains Angney and Murphy. The Laclede Rangers of St. Louis, one hundred and seven men, commanded by Captain Hudson. The three hundred United States dragoons previously mentioned, and Lieu- tenants W. H. Emory, W. H. Warner, J. W. Abert, and W. B. Peck, of the United States Topographical Engineers. The second division, or army of occupation, under Colonel Sterling Price, was expected to hold New Mexico while Kearney advanced Upon California, and comprised another regiment of Missouri volunteers of about one thousand men under Lieutenant-Colonel D. D. Mitchell and Major Ed- mondson ; a battalion of three hundred men, in four com - panics, under Lieutenant-Colonel Willock and Captains Smith, Hendley, Morin, and Robinson ; and the Mormon battalion, which was to follow Kearney : in all, about eighteen hundred men. The first division left Port Leavenworth late in June, a provision train of one hundred wagons, guarded by two mounted companies, having been sent on in advance. The march was a severe one, part of the way leading over a " heated desert, incrusted with alkaline earth like tine ashes, or hard with rain-washed pebbles, polished like glass by the winds and blistering hot to the feet." Bent's Fort was reached on the 30th of July, and the exhausted men and animals were given a brief period of rest, while Lieutenant De Courcy was sent with twenty men to Taos to discover the disposition of the people. He rejoined the army at the Pohil with fourteen Mexican prisoners and reported that resistance would be offered at every practicable point on the route. On the 2d of May the troops resumed their march, Captain Cooke, with twelve men, being sent in advance to carry the general's proclamation and escort Senor Gronzales of Chihuaihua and James Magoffin of Ken- tucky, who was secretly commissioned to treat with Armijo. 172 HISTOKY OF NEW MEXICO. Magoffin, called by the Mexicans '•' Don Santiago," was one of tlie early American settlers in the territory and a promi- nent Santa Fe trader, who had accumulated wealth and spent it liberally in generous hospitality ; he was familiar with the Spanish language and counted among his friends the leading men of New Mexico and Chihuahua. It was believed by prominent Federal officials that the interven- tion of such a man, versed in Mexican politics and the sentiments of the people, and popular with Spaniards and Americans, might be of great service in effecting a peace- able settlement and thus avoiding bloodshed. The party reached Santa Fe on August 12, and was received by Governor Armijo, who allowed Cooke to present his papers and promised to send a commissioner to treat with General Kearney, which he did the following day, selecting Dr. Henry Connelly, an American who had settled in New Mexico in 1828 and acquired wealth and influence in the community. While these negotiations were in progress, the American army was pushing on to Santa Fe, passing Santa Clara on the 13th, the Mora River on the 14th, and entering Las Vegas on the 15th, where General Kearney assembled the officials and leading men on the top of one of the large flat- roofed buildings, and "on the holy cross administered to them the oath of allegiance to the laws and government of the United States." The alcalde, Juan de Dios Maes, was the first Mexican to take the oath and he was then con- firmed in his office. The next village on the route was Tecolote, where the oath was administered and the offi- cials confirmed in power. Here, also. Captain Cooke and Dr. Connelly were met, but the communication of the latter was not made public. The next day the army halted at San Miguel, whose alcalde took the oath with extreme reluctance. It was in this town that the Texans of '41 received such hard fare, and by an odd revolution of the wheel of fate a Mexican officer, taken prisoner by the pickets that night, proved to be the son of General Damasio Salazar, their cruel captor. AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF NEW MEXICO. 173 On the 17th, the army encamped near the ruins of Pecos, revered among the Pueblos as the birthplace of Montezuma, whose great temple aroused the interest and curiosity of the men, jaded and hungry as they were ; for the commis- sary department had proved inadequate, and one half of a pound of flour and three eighths of a pound of pork was the daily allowance since leaving Bent's Fort. They were now some ten miles from the yawning chasm called Apache Canon, about twenty-eight miles from Santa Pe, a pass through the mountains three miles long, only wide enough in many places for the passage of a single wagon, the sides formed of ledges of rock from two to three hundred feet high and almost perpendicular. Here in this nearly im- pregnable spot, Armijo, with an army of from four to six thousand men, had fortified himself behind a breastwork of huge trees, and the Americans, thinking it madness to at- tempt an assault, were preparing to reach Santa Fe by a cir- cuitous mountain trail, when the news ran through the camp that the enemy had abandoned the post. The retreat of Armijo from so strong a position, without striking a blow, has been attributed to various .causes. It was reported at the time that dissensions had occurred between the general and his officers, and the campaign abandoned in consequence. It was also stated, and later research gives credibility to the statement, that Armijo' s flight was the direct result of Magoffin's embassy, the governor's warlike demonstrations being simply a sham to save his credit as a Mexican officer. Senator Benton of Missouri is quoted as saying that " the paper he (Magoffin) filed in the war office may furnish some material for history — some insight into the way of making conquests — if ever examined." With the termination of " Don Santiago's " Santa Fe mission, he went south on an- other diplomatic errand ; but was suspected and imprisoned. After the war he was awarded fifty thousand dollars by the Senate, in secret session ; but was only paid thirty thousand dollars by a new administration, a sum hardly sufficient to cover his expenditure. To whatever cause Armijo' s flight was owing, the act 174 HISTORY OP NEW MEXICO. was satisfactory from an American point of view, and the following morning the A-rmy of the West marched gayly through the wonderful defile that had looked so porten- tous the night before. At six o'clock that evening General Kearney, at the head of his troops, entered Santa Fe with- out a shot being fired on either side, excepting the salute of thirteen guns when the stars and stripes were unfurled from the palacio of the old Spanish city. On the following morning General Kearney addressed the people who had assembled on the plaza. He informed them that they were no longer Mexican subjects, but American citizens, and as such the United States government would protect them in the full enjoyment of their rights to person, property, and religion. Don Juan Bautista Vigil y Alarid, acting-governor, also made a brief speech, and General Kearney then pro- ceeded to administer the oath of allegiance to the officials and to the representatives of the Pueblo Indians, who came in ever-increasing numbers to offer their submission to these " white men of the East," whose coming they hailed as the fulfillment of the prophecy of Montezuma. It is always difiicult to conciliate a conquered people, and that Kearney should have succeeded as well as he did proves the possession of tact and firmness in an unusual degree. He was ably seconded by his command, the resident Americans, and many influential Mexicans, who believed that only by annexation to the United States could the wonderful mineral wealth of their country be developed, and whose advice and support was of immense value to the new administration. Cantonments for the troops and a forti- fication for the defense and maintenance of the city was an immediate necessity, and ground was broken for Fort Marcy on a height commanding the town. The army horses, upon whose condition the fate of a battle might hinge, were sent to graze on the rich slopes near the Galisteo, guarded by a body of troops under Lieutenant-Colonel Ruff. A lofty flag-staff was erected in the middle of the plaza, from which the stars and stripes waved warning or encouragement AMEHIOAX <>(CUPATH)\ OF NEW MKXWO. 175 according to the eyes of tliose who gazed. The Mexicans of ' all ranks are extremely ceremonious, an inheritance from their Castilian ancestors ; even the " lepero often exhibits a refinement of manner and address that would become a prince,and which they as well practice toward each other as toward strangers. " ' Kearney and his officers were careful to observe the punctilios demanded by native courtesy, but it was difficult to impress its necessity upon the volunteers, hardy, sturdy, and outspoken ; quick to appreciate and reciprocate a kindness, but not much given to "bowing and scraping," which they not only regarded as expletive non- sense, but viewed with considerable suspicion. The com- plaints inseparable from the occupation of a city by foreign troops were much reduced by the strictly enforced regula- tion that nothing should be taken which was not paid for, though the men were absolutely in want of food and in arrears of pay. On the 22d General Kearney issued the following proc- lamation : As by the act of the Republic of Mexico a state of war exists between that government and the United States, and as the undersigned, at the head of his troops, on the 18th instant, took possession of Santa Fe, the capital of the Department of New Mexico, he now announces his inten- tion to hold the Department, witli its original boundaries, (on both sides of the Del Norte), as a part of the United States, and under the name of the Territory of New Mexico. The undersigned has come to New Mexico with a strong military force, and an equally strong one is following close in his rear. He has more troops than necessary to put down any opposition that can possibly be brought against him, and therefore it would be folly and madness for any dissatislied or discontented persons to think of resisting him. The undersigned has instructions from his govern- ment to respect the religious institutions of New Mexico, to protect the property of the Church, to cause the worship of those belonging to it to be undisturbed, and their relig- ious rights in the amplest manner preserved to them. Also to protect the persons and property of all quiet and peace- able inhabitants within its boundaries against their enemies, the Utes, Navajoes, and others. And while he assures all 176 JIISTOUY OF NEW MEXICO. that it will be his pleasure as well as his duty to comply ' with those instructions, he calls upon them to exert them- selves in preserving order, in promoting concord, and in maintaining the authority and efficiency of the laws ; to require of those who have left their homes and taken up arms against the troops of the United States to return forthwith to them, or else they will be considered as enemies and traitors, s^^bjecting their persons to punish- ment and their property to seizure and confiscation for the benefit of the public treasury. It is the wish and intention of the United States to provide for New Mexico a free government with the least possible delay, similar to those in the United States, and the people of New Mexico will then be called on to exercise the rights of free men in elect- ing their own representatives to the Territorial Legislature ; but until this can be done the laws hitherto in existence will be continued until changed or modified by competent authority ; and those persons holding office will continue in the same for the present, provided they will consider them- selves good citizens and willing to take the oath of allegi- ance to the United States. The undersigned hereby absolves all persons residing within the boundary of New Mexico from further allegiance to the Republic of Mexico, and hereby claims them as citizens of the United States. Those who remain quiet and peaceable will be considered as good citizens and receive protection. Those Avho are found in arms, or instigating others against the United States, will be considered as traitors, and treated accord- ingly. Don Manuel Armijo, the late governor of this Department, has fled from it. The undersigned has taken possession of it without firing a gun or shedding a drop of blood, in which he most truly rejoices, and for the present will be considered as Governor of this Territory. Given at Santa Fe, the Capital of the Territory of New Mexico, this 22d day of August, 1846, and in" the seventy-first year of the Independence of the United States. S. W. Kearney, By the Governor. Brigadier-General. In consequence of this proclamation and the good order maintained, many who had sought safety in flight from the robbery, outrage, and murder which they supposed would mark the occupation of the American army, returned to the city with their families, and a grand ball given by Kearney AMERICAN OCCUPATION OF NEW MEXICO. 177 at the palace on the 27th was attended by manj' prominent Mexicans, accompanied by their dark-eyed wives and daughters. Since Kearney's occupation of Santa Fe almost daily rumors of a projected rising in Albuquerque, the home of Armijo, had been brought to him ; by September the former city was sufficiently tranquil to justify the governor in leaving it, to discover and disperse the malcon- tents. Colonel Doniphan was left in command, and in addition to the multifarious duties inseparable from the office was desired to draft a code of laws for the civil admin- istration of the new Territory. On the morning of Septem- ber 2d General Kearney, with about twenty-live of his staff-officers and bodyguard, rode out of Santa Fe at the head of seven hundred and twenty-five mounted volunteers, exclusive — as the old. soldier to whom we are indebted for the account jealously remarks — of "'the general's rolinttcrr Mexican escort ! ' ' The first town visited was the pueblo of Santo Domingo, whose governor rode out to welcome them at the head of "about seventy dashing cavaliers," and entertained them with a sham fight. At Algodones they were given fruits, melons, and bread, " hundreds of Mexicans voluntarily fell in with the line of march, and the expressi