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 WASHINGTON. D. C. 
 
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 MRS. MARY A. WYNNE 
 
 AND 
 
 JOHN H. WYNNE 
 
 CORNELL '98 
 1922 
 
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The original of this book is in 
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LONDON 
 
 NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 " From his oozy bed. 
 Old father Thames advanced liis reverend head ; 
 His tresses dressed with dews, and o'er the stream. 
 His shining horns diffused a golden gleam. 
 Graved on his urn appeared the moon, that guides 
 His swelling waters and alternate tides ; 
 The figured streams in waves of silver rolled. 
 And on their banks Augusta* rose in gold." 
 
 Pope. 
 
 BKIEF HISTORY OP LONDON, FROM THE EARLIEST FOUNDATION OF THE CITV TO THE NORMAN INVASION — 
 FROM THE NORMAN INVASION TO THE REFORMATION — FROM THE ACCESSION OF QUEEN ELIZABETH TO THE 
 
 FIRE OF LONDON — AND FROM THE REBUILDING OF THE CITY BY SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN SUBSEQUENT 
 
 PROGRESSIVE IMPROVEMENTS TO THE PRESENT DAT. 
 
 London, the most ancient constitutional borough in England,'!" is a city of very high 
 antiquity. Without going back to the historical romance of Geoffirey of Monmouth, who 
 attributes its foundation to a descendant of Venus and Anchises, and enumerates seventy 
 successive Icings before the arrival of Julius Caesar ; it is sufficient for our purpose, that 
 Gaesar gives no description in Ms well known narrative of his conquests, of any other 
 kind of town in Britain, than a thick wood fortified by a ditch and a mound. Hence it is 
 concluded that London owes its origin to a later period, even than the invasicm of Caesar. 
 
 The first Eflman historiaai who mentions oiu: metropolis by name is Tacitus, who bears 
 honorable testimony to the mimber and opulence of its merchants, and the abtmdance of 
 its provisions. Strabo also asserts that the country produced com, cattle, gold, silver and 
 iron; and that sMns, slaves- and dogs, excellent for the chace, were imported firom our 
 island. 
 
 * The name givea to London by Constantine the Great, in honor of his mother the Empress Helena. 
 t Norton's Commentaries on the History, Constitution and Chartered Franchises of the City of London. 
 
 B 
 
2 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 The conquests of Claudius, and his able general Hautius, were continued in the reign 
 of Nero by Suetonius Paulinus, who was bravely but unsuccessfully opposed by the natives 
 under the command of their illustrious queen Boadicea. This predatory warfare was 
 continued by the Imperial generals till the time of Domitian, whose legions, under the 
 command of Agricola, achieved the conquest of neaily the whole island. This brave and 
 prudent general provided for its security, by establishing that Une of military stations, in 
 the north of England, which was afterwards fortified in the reign of Antoninus Pius, and 
 still remains a monument of Roman greatness. 
 
 Thus was the greater part of Britain subjugated : " a conquest," says Gibbon, " that was 
 undertaken by the most stupid" (Claudius), " maintained by the most despotic" (Nero), 
 " and terminated by the most tunid" (Domitian) " of all the emperors ;" and the suc- 
 cessors of Caractacus, Boadicea and their bands of heroes, were compelled to submit to 
 the Roman yoke. 
 
 Agricola being appointed governor of Britain exhorted the natives, says Tacitus,* to 
 cultivate the arts of peace, to buUd temples and houses, and to imitate their enlightened 
 conquerors. This caused London to revive, after the severe defeat of Boadicea, to such an 
 extent, that Herodian in his life of the Emperor Lucius Septimius Sevems, who reigned 
 fi-om the year 193 to 211, calls it a great and wealthy city. It extended firom Ludgate to 
 Tower Hill in length, and firom the causeway above Cheapside to the Thames in breadth. 
 
 It is not probable, from the silence of the Roman historians, that London was either 
 a place of great strength, or fortified by a wall, till after those periods wherein they wrote, 
 and the time when it was so protected is a matter of great uncertainty. Maitland attri- 
 butes the erection of a waU to Theodosius, who was governor of Britain in 369. Dr. 
 Woodward and Mr. Pennant with more probability ascribe it to Constantine the Great, 
 which appears to be confirmed by the number of coins found of his motlier Helena. 
 Pennant says, in fiui;her support of this conjecture, that in honour of this Empress the city 
 about that time received from her the title of Augusta, which superseded its more ancient 
 and clearly British appellation Londinium, for only a short period. 
 
 London, at this period of its history, had a mint, and was adorned with temples and 
 other public buildings of great magnificence, as the numerous remains of ancient Roman 
 architecture and sculpture that have been discovered in various excavations, witiun the 
 walls of the city, incontestably prove. The substantial and extensive wall that sm- 
 rounded it was strengthened and adorned by the Romans with many towers, of so firm a 
 structure that two were in existence in Maitland's time ; and Dr. Woodwai-d doubts not, 
 that nearly the whole circuit of the city wall as it stood in 1707 was erected upon the old 
 Roman foundation, which comprehended an ai-ea of more than three miles in cu-cum- 
 ference. 
 
 While the mighty empire of Rome was crumbling to pieces, by slow but certain steps, 
 the British island separated itself from its great protector. Roman forces being withdi-awn, 
 the natives' were left to the ravages of tiie Saxon pirates, and tiieir neighbouring enemies 
 of Ireland and Caledonia; 
 
 • Life of Agricola. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 3 
 
 After the departure of the Romans from Britain, about the year 448, the independance 
 of the country was established by the Emperor Honorius, who raised the City of London 
 among other cities to the dignity of a Colony. The supreme command devolved on Vor- 
 tigern an unfortunate prince, who bears the stigma of having invited the Saxons to protect 
 him against liis northern enemies, the Scots and Picts. Whether the Saxons were invited 
 as some authors relate, or whether, according to others they invaded a country well known 
 to them, which offered a lure- to their cupidity, is of little importance in this brief nai- 
 ration ; but that they succeeded and established their dominion under the name of the 
 Saxon heptarchy, from their seven kingdoms is a tnith, the effects of which are appai-ent 
 to the present day. 
 
 Hengist, the first of these crafty chieftains, established his government over Kent, Essex 
 and Middlesex, and raised Canterbury to the dignity of his meti'opolis in preference to 
 London, which remained in possession of the Britons, and afterwards became the chief 
 city of the Saxon kingdom of Essex. London was at this time governed by a chief magis- 
 trate under the title of Portgrave, or Portreve. 
 
 Towai-ds the latter end of the reign of Ethelbert, about the year 600, a considerable 
 number of the Saxoiis were converted to Christianity, and Augustine, a monk sent over by 
 Pope Gregory the Great, was ordained archbishop of England. He ordained Mellitus 
 bishop of the East Saxons, who in 610 erected at the expense of Ethelbert a cathedi-al 
 church in London, and dedicated it to St. Paul, and another in the island of Thomey, 
 which he dedicated to St. Peter. At this time, says Bede, London was a mart town of 
 many nations, yet it was far from that high estate in Which it was left by the Romans, for 
 no buildings in brick or stone were attempted by the Saxons till the year 680, and even the 
 churches and monasteries were principally of wood, tUl the reign of Edgar in 974. 
 
 In the year 764 London suffered very considerably by fire, and in 798 it was entii-ely 
 destroyed by a similar calamity. The city was scarcely rebuilt, when it was again de- 
 sti-oyed by a third conflagration, in 801. Dming the civU wars between the various king- 
 doms of the Saxons, the Londoners wisely kept neater, and when their seven kingdoms 
 were united under the sole dominion of the victorious Edgar, in 827, he fixed upon London 
 as his capital, and. in 833 with Ethelvfolf his son, Withlaf king of Mercia, and the leading 
 men of the realm assembled in London and held a Witena-gemot or parliament ; and may thus 
 be considered as the second founder of London, by raising it to that rank among the cities 
 of the kingdom, which it has ever since maintained. 
 
 Notwithstanding the success of Egbert, it Was not long before London was again the 
 scene of war and devastation, fi-om the invasion of the Danes ; which in three subsequent 
 reigns, nearly overwhehned the whole kingdom in ruin. After sacking and burning the 
 unfortunate city, they found themselves under the necessity of occupying and fortifying it 
 against the successes of the Britons. 
 
 The conquests of AUred restored London to its former gi-eatness, and freed tlie kin-^dom 
 from the Danish yoke. This great monarch repaired the walls, and rebuilt the city. He 
 also established that regular system of law and government, and accomplished those oreat 
 improvements which are enjoyed to tlie present day. 
 
4 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 About a century after the death of Alfi-ed, the Danes and Norwegians sailed up the 
 Thames and besieged the city, which being unable to reduce, they raised the siege, but 
 harassed other parts of the kingdom. London, being abandoned by its pusilanimous 
 monarch Ethelred, who abdicated his throne, and retired into Normandy, was compelled to 
 submit with the rest of England to the yoke of Sweyne Mng of Denmark. The Lon- 
 doners however in the reign of Canute his son, joined in the general effort of the whole 
 Idngdom, imder the brave Edmond Ironsides, the son of Ethelred. The enterprize was so 
 successful, that Canute was compelled to abandon London to his rival, who was there 
 crowned king of England ; but being afterwards assassinated, Canute became sole sove- 
 reign of the kingdom. 
 
 Edward the Confessor is Said to be the first monarch, who formally recognised the pri- 
 vileges of London, which had previously subsisted only by custom and tradition, and the 
 city at this .period^ according to William of Malmsbury, became the resort of merchants 
 fi-om all parts of the world. 
 
 On the invasion by William the Conqueror, the citizens of London received him with 
 arms in their hands, and willingly acknowledged him as Mng, who in return took up his 
 residence in their city, built the tower, and granted them their first written charter, which 
 is stiU preserved in the archives of the city. In 1077 the greater part of the city was 
 consumed by a casual fire, and in 1086 another dreadfiil fire hegan at Ludgate, and con- 
 sumed the greatest and best part of the city, together with the cathedral of St. Paul, 
 which however was soon rebuilt more magnificently than before. It was in this reign that 
 the church of St. Mary-le-bow in Cheapside was first erected. In the succeeding reign 
 Wyiiam Rufiis erected Westminster Hall, as it now stands, and encompassed the Tower 
 of London with a strong wall. Henry the First confirmed the grants and charter of his 
 father, gave the citizens privilege to elect their own sheriffs and magistrates, and of being 
 amenable to coiu1;s only held within their walls. This king, in consideration of an annual 
 payment of £300, gave them also the privilege of electing the sheriff of Middlesex in 
 perpetuity, a right which they enjoy to this day. Matilda the consort of Henry contri- 
 buted also very largely to the increase of the public buildings of London. In the following 
 reign of Stephen, the city was again devastated by a sinodlar calamity. 
 
 Dming the captivity of the chivalrous Richard Cceur-de-Lion, the citizens of London 
 contributed largely to the sum required for his ransom, and received him with such truly 
 civic magnificence, that a German nobleman, who accompanied the captive monarch 
 to his ancient capital, observed, that had his master the Emperor been aware of the 
 wealth of the king of England's subjects, he would have demanded a much lai'ger sum 
 for his release. The gratefid monarch confirmed the citizens in aU their privileges, and 
 conferred upon them the conservatorship of the river Thames, made their chief magistrate 
 chief butler to the king, and gave them the power of fixing a standard of weights and 
 measures for the whole realm. 
 
 The buildings of London at this period, if we may believe the splendid fictions of Fitz- 
 stephen, were grand in the extreme, for he describes the king's palace as an incompai-ahle 
 edifice, and connected with the city by suburbs reaching two miles in length, that the 
 
LONDON IN THK NINETEENTH CENTURY. 5 
 
 bishops, abbots and noblemen of the Mngdom resorted thither, lived in beautifid houses, 
 and maintained very magnificent estabhshments. As at present, the citizens were well 
 initiated in the luxuries of good living, for they had an immense pubhc eOoking establish- 
 ment on the Thames side, at which dainties of every kind, of very expensive quality, 
 could be had at any time of day or night. They had also public and private schools of 
 philosophy and polite literature ; the drama was well understood and cultivated, and Fitz- 
 Steph^n, who was a monk, commends in very high terms tiie holy exhibition of the mira- 
 cles and mai-tyrdom of the saints. 
 
 In this reign, we have the first appearance of an approach towards a building act ; for in 
 the first year of king Richard's reign, in consequence of the firequent fires, it was ordained 
 by the court of aldermen that no houses should after that period be allowed to be built of 
 wood or thatched ; but that aH of them should have an butside wall of stone raised six- 
 teen feet firom the ground, — an ordinance which seems to have been at that time success- 
 fiilly carried into effect. 
 
 From the authority quoted by Mr. Norton, one of the late common pleaders of the city, 
 in his able commentaries on the history, constitution and chartered fi-anchises of the city 
 of London, preserved in the liber constitut. Lib. Home, Lib. ClerkenweU, twelve aldennen 
 were subsequentiy at a fiiU husting to superintend aU city works, and settie disputes 
 about enclosures, party wall, &c. This stability in the structure of houses did not last 
 long ; for, according to contemporary accounts, all houses inLondon were bmlt of wood down 
 to the reign of James I., at which time they began to buUd with brick. 
 
 During the absence of Cceiu"-de-Lion, his brother and successor John, then called Earl 
 of Moreton, cultivated by all possible means the love of the citizens, with the intention of 
 gainiEg thrar interests to procure him the crown, in the stead of Prince Arthur, son of 
 Geoffrey his elder brother. This was attended with such success, that king Richard was 
 succeeded by his brother John, who gave the citizens the privilege of electing their chief 
 officer out' of their own body. King John also gave the city three charters, reciting and 
 confirming all the rights and privileges of his predecessors, with many very important 
 additions. 
 
 During the disputes tiiat arose between John and the papal see, the citizens, in common 
 with the rest of the kibgdom, were excommunicated ; still however they would have sup- 
 ported him, had not his tyranny alienated their affection, and drove them to join the Barons 
 in defence of the general national interest. The king resented this, and the citizens re- 
 torted by stiengthening their walls with a deep ditch, and other defences, which were 
 somewhat retarded by an extraordinary fire on London Bridge, on the 10th of July 1212, 
 whereby upwards of 3000 persons perished either by the flames or in being drowned by 
 overloading the boats that went to their assistance. The bridge was greafly damaged^ and 
 a great pai-t of the city consumed. 
 
 In 1213 when the articles composing the great charter were proposed, resolved on and 
 sworn to, the citizens of London joined their fellow countrymen, and received with joy the 
 means offered them to assist in this glorious achievement, which has become to the present 
 time, the palladium and standard of our liberties. 
 
 c 
 
6 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Almost as soon as the gratifying intelligence of this event could be known over the king- 
 dom, John applied to the pope for an absolution frorn his solemn oath, and to other foreign 
 potentates for military aid. With this assistance he commenced a civil war against the 
 Baroiis, who sought and found protection within the walls of the city. He then ftdmi- 
 nated against all concerned a thundering anathema from Romej which was received with 
 indifference. The citizens, although' exempted by their charter from going to war, raised, 
 it is said, an army of 20,000 horse, and 40,000 foot, besides fitting out a powerful fleet 
 to protect their commerce. 
 
 On Hemy III. succeeding to the throne, his first public act was to confirm the great 
 charter. The citizens of London received their young king with every possible demon- 
 stration of attachment, but between them and the comrtiers who had been the supporters of 
 John there was any feeling but that of cordiality to each other. 
 
 On the death of his wise and liberal minister, the Earl of Pembroke, Henry threw 
 himself into the entire guidance of Hubert-de-Burgh, who, as chief minister and justiciary 
 of the kingdom, acted with cruel and arbitrary measures. He suspended the operations of 
 the great charter, and hanged Fitz-Amulp, a citizen who had been engaged in a tumult 
 against the abbot of Westminster, and two other citizens, without any trial. He also 
 usurped the city authorities into his own hands, caused the king to amerce them in a large 
 sum, and appointed a custos over it instead of their own chief magistrate. When the 
 citizens remonstrated against this infraction of a solemn charter, he demanded a fifteenth of 
 all their moveables for granting a restoration of it. He also prohibited all schools of law 
 to be held in London, where the articles of the great and the forest charters were taken as 
 subjects for discussion. 
 
 On the king's coming of age, De Bm-gh incurred his displeasure, and with a fickleness 
 natural to him, the discarded minister was first given up to the mayor and citizens to be 
 dealt with as he deserved ; but on the remonstrance of Ranulph, Earl of Chester, the 
 order was recalled to the great disappointment of the ill-treated citizens. 
 
 Great as was the displeasure of the citizens, against the king's measures, they would 
 not omit their usual splendour and liberality at the coronation of queen Eleanor at West- 
 minster; for the mayor, aldermen and chief citizens went out with great splendour to 
 welcome the royal consort. The king's extravagance and misrule brought him into such 
 distress that he was compelled to pawn the crown jewels to relieve his necessities. These 
 national pledges were accepted by the citizens, to prevent their deposit with the Burghers 
 of Antwerp, or the Jews of Amsterdam, the usual money lenders of that day. But, when 
 the king heard who were the lenders of the money, he expressed great contempt for and dis- 
 pleasure at the party. 
 
 The king therefore bore no great good will towards his good citizens of London, and 
 proved his regard by most exorbitant exactions, and the various schemes of pillaging he 
 resorted to so disgusted the citizens, that they joined cordially in tiie league made by the 
 Barons against him. 
 
 In this king's reign is the first recorded instance of supplying the city with water, by 
 means of pipes ; which was brought fi-om six fountains in the village of Tyburn. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 7 
 
 The enmity between the Mng and the city daily increased, and he exhibited his wrath by 
 fines and curtailment of their ancient privileges ; which however they recovered by their 
 wonted energy and perseverance. Hehry, on the birth of his son Edward, affected, to be 
 reconciled to the city, that he might induce the corporation to take oaths of fealty to the 
 new-bom prince ; and at the same time he made additional and expensive fortifications to 
 the Tower of London, that he might overawe the rebeUious citizens. 
 
 In the twenty-fifth year of this king's reign, according to the chronicles of Sir Richard 
 Baker, aldermen were first chosen to rule the wards of the city, but they were changed 
 annually in the manner of the sheriffs ; the houses were mostly covered, or thatched with 
 straw, and a former edict that aU future buildings should be of stone, with party walls, and 
 covered with slates or tiles, was renewed. In the same year, the king granted a consider- 
 able sum towards building the new abbey church at Westminster. A common seal, which 
 in fact, if not in name, now first incorporated the city as a body, was likewise granted in 
 this reign. 
 
 Notwithstanding the readiness of the citizens to comply with all the king's reasonable 
 demands, he still continued to oppress them under various pretences ; in consideration how- 
 ever of receiving a large sum of money, he granted them a new charter, which confirmed 
 all they had hitherto enjoyed. Yet his craving for money and enmity to the city continued 
 unabated, and after niunerous acts of tyranny, and conferences, he violated and granted in 
 succession no less than nine different charters. So much had he drained the city by his 
 continual extortions, that the most eminent citizens found difl&culty in procuring provisions 
 for their families, and the poor were reduced to a dreadful state of famine. 
 
 In consequence of prince Edward breaking open' the treasury of the knight's Templars, 
 in 1263, and robbing it of a large sum deposited there by the citizens, the inhabitants com- 
 menced retaliation upon the court by assaulting and plundering the houses of Lord Gray 
 and others of the nobility. The barons being engaged in hostilities with the king de- 
 manded aid of the Londoners, but Henry, who came and resided in the Tower, endeavoured 
 to cajole them with fair words and promises ; finding however they could no longer submit 
 to the arbitrary wiU of so faithless a monarch, they mai'ched to give him battie ; when it 
 was agreed to refer all their differences to the Mng of France : the latter deciding in favour 
 of Henry, the citizens headed by the constable of the Tower marched to Isleworth, where 
 they destroyed the palace of the king of the Romans, and on their return pulled down the 
 king's summer residence near Westminster. After this they returned in triumph, and 
 fiurther hostilities continued vrith various fortunes. The king, having routed the barons 
 called a parliament at Westminster, which enacted " that the City of London, for its late 
 rebellion, should be divested of its liberties, should have its posts and chains taken away, 
 and its principal citizens imprisoned and left to the mercy of the king." In consequence 
 of this act, he imprisoned several of the leading citizens, who went to Windsor to implore 
 his clemency, and disinissed the whole of their magistracy. The corporation at length 
 obtained pardon and a new charter, on payment of 20,000 marks. 
 
 It was in this reigp. the city watching and warding were first established. West- 
 minster Abbey was completed, and many privileges were conferred on the city by prince 
 
8 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUEY. 
 
 Edward the king's son, who, being appointed governor by his father, obtained for the citi- 
 zens a recognition of their right to choose their own chief magistrate and other immunities, 
 according to ancient charter. 
 
 On the dedth of Henry, his son, then engaged in the Crusades, succeeded to the throne 
 as Edward I., and testified his regard for the citizens of London, by transmitting to them a 
 letter, wherein he ordered the expulsion of the Flenungs. This mark of the Mng's per- 
 sonal regard for a city whose chief magistrate, he had been whilst prince, was accepted 
 with such gratitude by the citizens, that they receired him on his arrival from Palestine 
 with Unbounded joy and magnificence. In return the long acted as moderator, in a violent 
 dissension which broke out as to the choice of a mayor ; and in the third year of his reign 
 he honoured the city by appointing its mayor his ambassador beyond seas, and directed four 
 citizens chosen by their feUows to supply the place of mayor during his absence. 
 
 In this year the convent of the Black-friars was founded and buUt by a license froln the 
 crown, and also a wall and tower at the head of it for his Majesty's reception. This wall 
 reached from Ludgate westward, behind the houses to Fleet ditch, and thence southward to 
 the river Thames ; for the completion of which the king granted the citizens a duty on 
 certain merchandizes for three years. 
 
 At this period of Edward's reign, the city first began to be governed by wards as at 
 present, and elected a select body from among themselves called the lord mayor's common 
 eouncU, and were first summoned to pailiameat by the king's writ In 1281 London 
 bridge had become so dangerous from decay that the citizens applied to the king for aid, 
 which he granted by authorizing a toll to be collected for its repair, and shortly after gave 
 them certain other duties for the reparation of the public buildings and enclosure of the 
 city. Five of the arches of London bridge having been carried away, a subsidy was granted 
 to the corporation foj its repair. 
 
 In the twelfth year of this reign, the mayor, aldermen and sheriffs, having been sum- 
 moned to appear before the justices in Eyre at the Tower, the former refused to appear in 
 his magisterial capacity, but attended as a private citizen : the king was so incensed at this 
 conduct that he immediately deprived the city of all its franchises, and appointed a custos, 
 who held the authority of the mayor for above twelve years |' but which was afterwards 
 restored to the citizens in consideration of a moderate fine. 
 
 The city, says Mr. Norton, was never after in this reign molested in its rights ; and 
 so firmly does the supreme authority of the law appear to have been established, that upon 
 a mandate coming from the king, directed to the mayor and sheriffs, which appeared to 
 infiinge the privileges of the citizens, they did not hesitate to return for answer — that tiiey 
 could not be charged to obey it ; and they actually refiised so to do, with impunity. 
 
 In the twenty-eighth year of this reign, the Goldsmith's company of London was in- 
 vested with the privilege of assay; and in 1304, we first read of a recorder of London, 
 when Geoffrey de Hartlepole, alderman, was chosen to that dignity. 
 
 On the death of Edward I. the sceptre was transfen-ed to tlie feeble hands of his son, 
 Edward II., who began his reign by acts of severity against thte city. Part of the fine due 
 from the city to Ms father being unpaid, he issued a writ oijieri facias, from the exche- 
 
LONDON IN THE. NINETEENTH CENTURY. 9 
 
 quer, and distrained the goods of the citizens. He was guilty of many other similar acts 
 of tyranny, yet the citizens received him on liis first solemn entry, in 1308, with a degree 
 of magnificence that sufficiently testified their loyalty. In this reign, we find the first 
 authentic mention of the mercantile constitution- of the civic corporation, and of the mer- 
 cantile qualifications requisite in candidates for the freedom of the- city. A number of 
 articles of regulation were drawn by the citizens, approved by the Hng, and afterwards 
 confirmed to them by a deed known by the title of the first charter of Edward II. 
 
 In 1310 the order of knight's Templars in London was subverted, their persons having 
 been arrested in England as well as all over the continent. They were however allowed 
 trifling pensions by the king, during their imprisonment in the four city gates. 
 
 The citizens, in resentment of some indignity received from the king, levelled to the 
 ground, a mud wall that had been erected by Hemy III. to enclose the Tower, and which 
 encroached within the city walls. The king in punishment for this act of indiscretion fined 
 them in 1000 marks, but renewed to them their former privileges of recovering their rents 
 by gavelot. In 1317 the king summoned a parfiament at York, and directed the sheriffs to 
 return two of their fellow citizens, but in the return to the court, the mayor, aldermen, 
 sheiiffs and commonalty returned three. 
 
 The king having resigned the government entirely into the hands of his tyrannical favo- 
 rites, the two Spencers, the barons resented this conduct, and summoned a parliament to 
 meet in the city, where the nobility repaired with such a train of attendants, that they equalled 
 in number a considerable army. The conduct of the barons and the citizens was so 
 pnident that the king was compelled to assent to their terms, and gave them many addi- 
 tional privileges, and another charter. The rest of this reign was spent in continual squab- 
 bles between the court and the city ; both the Spencers were hanged, and the head of the 
 younger one stuck upon London bridge. The king, who had taken refiige. in Wales, was 
 sent to London, and confined in the Tower. The parliament voted his deposition in 1327, 
 and his son Edward, then only fourteen years of age, was chosen to succeed him. 
 
 The young king Edward III. was received by the Londoners with great enthusiasm, 
 and with the constitutional consent of his parliament granted them an ample charter, com- 
 prising the power of trying prisoners within their own jurisdiction, and of trying citizens 
 convicted of crimes in other parts, within , the city, called the rights of infang-theft and 
 <yu,tfang -theft. He also added by a second charter the village of Southwark to the jiuis- 
 diction of the city. 
 
 In 1329, several ambassadors from foreign kingdoms having arrived, the king ordered a 
 grand tournament to be performed in Cheapside, in honour of his illustrious visitors, which 
 is a proof of the estimation in which he held the citizens, whose foreign -trade had increased 
 to such an extent, that in 1331 the customs of the port of London, at the very low rate of 
 duty at that period, amounted to above £8000 a year. 
 
 In 1338 an expedition was formed against France^ and the prince of Wales, afterwards 
 known by the title of the Black Prince, who was regent during his father's absence, issued 
 a precept to the mayor, aldermen and sherifls of London, conunanding them to shut up and 
 fortify their city next the Thames, against a French fleet, that had already invaded the 
 
 D 
 
10 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 realm ia several places. In the following year the citizens advanced to the king the sum 
 of 20,000 marks, raised by a general assessment on each ward. In this king's reign an- 
 other dispute arose between him and the Londoners, concerning an encroachment on their 
 liberties, by the judges holding an inquisition in the Tower, which ended in a general 
 -enquiry, and a new charter. 
 
 The king, wanting money to carry on the war with France, endeavoured to raise some, 
 by compelling every citizen possessed of £40 a year to take upon himself the order of 
 knighthood, and a writ was accordingly issued to the sheriifs ; but the citizens, not being so 
 fond of honours as in later times, availed themselves of certain exceptions, and directed the 
 sheriffs to return a refusal. 
 
 In the year 1346 David, king of Scotland, who had been taken prisoner at the battle of 
 Nevil's cross, was lodged in the Tower. About this time, a bridge at Westminster was first 
 proposed, though it was not erected till within the last century. In the twenty-eighth year 
 of this reign, such amity existed between the king and the citizens, that he granted them 
 ■another most liberal charter, giving them the privilege of bearing maces of gold or silver 
 before their chief magistrate, the same as before himself. 
 
 In 1357 the city was honoured with the grandest triumphal procession that its records 
 can boast of. This was the entry of Edward the Black Prince, accompanied by Ms royal 
 prisoner John king of France, who were met in Southwark by upwards of 5000 citizen-? on 
 horseback, and richly accoutred. This enlarged procession was met by the mayor, alder- 
 men, sheriffs and the chief companies in their formalities with stately pageants, at the foot 
 of London Bridge. The streets of the city were adorned with the richest tapestries, and 
 with plate, sUks and other furniture, exhibiting their wealth. This cavalcade lasted from 
 three ift the morning till noon. 
 
 Henry Picard, a past lord mayor of London, had the honoui' in 1363 of entertaining, at 
 his mansion in the city, the kings of France, Scotland, and Cyprus, together with his own 
 sovereign and his gallant son the Black prince. In furtherance of the war against France 
 the corporation of London lent the king a considerable sum, and at the same time 
 petitioned the king and parliament against several encroachments on their privileges. In 
 1374 our great poet Chaucer was appointed comptroller of the customs in the port of 
 London ; and in the fifteenth year of the king's reign, he granted the citizens two other 
 charters, one explanatory of the right of choosing aldermen, and tlie other relative to the 
 encomragement of foreign artificers, a wise policy, to which however th? citizens objected as 
 tending to impoverish them, and to diminish their privileges. 
 
 Although this conduct of the king did not ingratiate him jnuch witli the citizens, yet it 
 did not lessen their respect for the royal family ; for in the same year that tlie king gave 
 these privileges to foreigners, they entertained the princess of Wales, widow of tlie Black 
 prince, her son prince Richard and their suite at Kennington, with a grand masquerade 
 performed by 130 citizens on horseback, who set out fi'om Newgate and proceeded over 
 the biidge through Southwark to Kennington. 
 
 About this time Wickliffe being cited before the spiritual comt in St. Paul's cathedral, 
 And a waa'm altercation having ensued between John duke of Lancaster the king's son, and the 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ] 1 
 
 bishop of London, the^citizens took pai't with the latter. This conduct so highly incensed 
 the prince, that he moved in the long's name in parhament, of which he was president, that 
 from that day there should be no more mayor of London, and many other things sub- 
 versive of its rights and privileges. Great riots ensued in consequence, and the mob 
 attacked the Savoy, then the palace of the duke of Lancaster, murdered a priest and com- 
 mitted various other acts of atrocity. The mayor and commonalty waited on the king, who 
 gave them a favourable reception and answer, but shortly after, the king's infirmities and 
 the duke's iU wiU increasing, the mayor, sheriffs and aldermen were summoned to attend 
 liis majesty at Kew near Richmond. On this occasion they were less successful ; for the 
 mayor and several of the aldermen were dismissed from their offices, and others appointed 
 by virtue of the king's writ. Shortly after this the king died and was succeeded by his 
 grandson Richard II. 
 
 The reign of Richard II. is one of the most remarkable in the annals of the city ; for, 
 as Mr. Norton observes, we must refer to this period the present establishment of the civic 
 government. At the coronation of this king, he being then oidy eleven years of age, the 
 citizens claimed their right of acting as chief butler, which being allowed, the lord mayor 
 officiated in that capacity. On this occasion, also, we find the first mention of a champion, 
 although the present family of the Dymokes claim a more ancient date. The yoimg king, 
 in testimony of his regard for the citizens, gave them a confirmatory charter and a mandate 
 for maintaining their vndows. He also proposed to reside within the city and offered his 
 mediation between them and his uncle, the duke of Lancaster. After this the young king 
 made his grand entry into the city, for which the most magnificent preparations were made. 
 
 The credit of the citizens was so high at this period, that in the assessment for that 
 poll tax, the indecent collection of which caused the insurrection headed by AVat Tyler, 
 the aldermen were entitled and rated as barons, and the lord mayor as a right honourable 
 earl. This insurrection occurred in 1380, when Sir William Walworth was mayor. After 
 many successes in their way fi'om' Maidstone to Blackheath, destroying the Temple and 
 other public buildings in the city, they sent a message to the king and demanded a parley. 
 The insurgents possessed themselves of the Tower, seized and beheaded the archbishop of 
 Canterbury and Sir Robert Hajes, under circumstances of peculiar cruelty. They mur- 
 dered many ancient citizens and foreign merchants, and committed other atrocities ; and at 
 last agreed to a conference in Smithfield. One of the conditions proposed by their leader 
 was that he should have a commission to behead aU lawyers, escheators and others learned 
 in the law. At this conference Tyler behaved with such insolence to the king, that Sir Wil- 
 liam Walworth as chief magistrate felled him to the ground. The presence of mind dis- 
 played by the king, and the successftd issue of his address to the insm'gents, ai-e too well 
 known to need repetition. The king knighted the lord mayor and several of the aldermen, 
 and in the opinion of many writers granted the augmentation of the dagger to the city aims 
 in commemoration of this event. He also granted the corporation a new seal, and other 
 honours and privileges. 
 
 In this reign the regalia and crown jewels, pledged to ithe citizens, were redeemed, but 
 the king imposed so many exactions upon them, and made so many attempts to abridge 
 
12 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 them of their privileges, that on the landing of the duke of Hereford (afterwards Henry 
 IV.), in Yortsliire, he was instantly invited to take up his residence in the city. This 
 conduct materially tended towards the resignation of Richard. In this reign the; wards 
 were first represented in common council as at the present day. 
 
 The new king Henry IV. was crowned at Westminster on the 13th October 1399, at 
 which the Idrd mayor and aldermen of London were admitted to their ancient rights of chief 
 butler of England. In 1400 Emanuel Palaeologus, emperor of the Greeks, arrived in 
 England, and was met by the king and nobility at Blackheath, and received by the lord 
 mayor, aldennen, and citizens in a splendid manner. In this year also, says Fabian, Guildhall 
 was built, instead of an old little cottage in Aldermanbury. The walls of the city in this reign 
 were in a regular and complete state of repair, and a clear ditch was kept around them. 
 The streets were now for the first time lighted with public lanterns, whence Mr. Norton 
 justly infers, that the internal police of the city was under tolerably good regulation. The 
 conservancy of the Thames was also confirmed to the citizens, who at this period were so 
 wealthy that on a public loan the celebrated Richard Whittington advanced £1000, 
 while the opulent bishop of Durham could only advance 100 marks. Whittington also 
 rebuilt Newgate, the hbrary of the Grey Friars, part of Bartholomew's Hospital and 
 the college of priests on (JoHege Hill-, recently puHed down and rebuilt on a new site, near 
 the Highgate archway. 
 
 On the death of Henry IV., whose body is supposed to have been thrown into the 
 Thames, the throne was filled by the gay and gallant Henry V., who confirmed the citizens 
 in their ancient privileges. The festivities of lord mayor's day 1 415, were joyfiiUy heightened 
 by the arrival of the news of the king's great victory at Agincourt, which was communicated 
 to Nicholas Wotton, when proceeding to Westminster to be sworn. Moorgate was built in 
 the same year for the convenience of the citizens to fi:equent the fields of Finsbury and the 
 neighboiuing villages. On the return of the triumphant king the- citizens received him with 
 every possible demonstration of joy. Tapestry illustrative of his victory, and other showy 
 embellishments, were displayed in the streets, and the city conduits ran with wine. The 
 lord mayor, aldermen and citizens, went in grand cavalcade to the king at Westminster, 
 and presented him with the (then) large sum of £1000 in gold, in two rich basins of the 
 same metal and value. 
 
 The citizens, also, in honour of their king, received the emperor Sigismund in the most 
 splendid manner, and advanced large sums to the king in aid of his war in France. 
 Holbom was first paved in 14175 and in 1419, a year celebrated as the third mayoralty 
 of the famous Sir Richard Whittington, Sir Thomas Eyre, a past lord mayor, built Leaden- 
 hall as a pubhc granary. This warlike monarch died ia France on the 31st of August 
 1422, and was buried, with much ceremony, in the cathedral of St. Paul, James, king of 
 Scotland, ofiiciating as chief mourner, attended by the princes of the blood, the leading 
 nobility and gentry of the kingdom, with the lord mayor, aldermen and principal 
 citizens. 
 
 Henry VI. succeeded his father, being only eight months and a few days old. He was 
 carried in his mother's lap in an open chair through the city to tiie parliament, then sitting ai 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 13 
 
 Westminster. In 1423 Newgate was rebuilt at the expense of fiinds left by Sir Richard Whit- 
 tington, and many other improvements were made to the city. After the young king's coro- 
 nation in France, in 14.31, he was received by the mayor and citizens of London at Black- 
 heath and conducted to the city, with great splendour ; and two days after the mayor and 
 aldermen attended the king at Westminster, and presented him with a golden hamper, con- 
 taining dElOOO in golden nobles. 
 
 In the year 1438 Sir William Eastfield, knight of the Bath and lord mayor of London, 
 brought, at his own expense, water into the city from Tyburn and Highbury-Bam, and 
 erected public conduits in Fleet Street, Aldermanbiu-y and Cripplegate. In the following 
 year, the abbot of Westminster granted to the mayor and citizens of London and their suc- 
 cessors a head of water, at Paddington, which contributed much to the sen'ice of the city. 
 The king granted a sum of money for repairing the cross in Cheapside, and in 1443 the 
 common council granted also 1000 marks towards erecting a new conduit at the western 
 end. In 1448 the king pawned his plate to two London goldsmiths, and in ] 450 the well 
 known Jack Cade headed a rebellion, and took possession of the city, striking his sword 
 upon London stone and proclaiming himself " Lord of London." He exercised sovereignty 
 within the city, and put the lords Say and Cromer to death without trial. The citizens 
 -incensed at the conduct of some of his followers, who had plundered two wealthy alder- 
 men united with the king's troops in the Tower, and cut off the rebel party. Three of the 
 aldermen and many citizens however lost their lives in the conflict. 
 
 The putting down of this rebellion, chiefly by the bravery of the citizens, gave such 
 satisfaction to the king, that he made the lord mayor, Geoflrey Fielding, a privy counsellor, 
 which is the first instance of a lord mayor of London being raised to so important a rank. 
 "The custom of the new lord mayor being rowed up to Westminster first occurred in this 
 reign in 1454, when John Norman, the lord mayor elect, built an elegant barge at his own 
 expense. This example was followed by several of the chief companies, who attended him 
 in their respective bai-ges splendidly decorated. 
 
 The citizens distinguished themselves at this period by several revolts against the vacil- 
 lating government of the duke of York, who had been appointed protector. One of these, 
 as related by Fabian, was in the monastery of St. Martin's-le-grand, where a number of 
 the inhabitants who had grossly insulted the citizens had taken refiige. The lord mayor and 
 aldermen on learning the scandalous treatment of their fellow-citizens, by the retainers of 
 the court, forced the sanctuary and brought off the assailants. The dean complained to 
 the king who summoned the recorder and a deputation of aldermen to attend him in Here- 
 fordshire, where on hearing the case, he commanded the citizens to keep the aggi-essors in 
 custody tiU his return. Another riot was occasioned by that jealousy of their liberties that 
 always distinguished the Londoners ; for in May 1456 a young mercer, who had been denied 
 the privilege of wearing his dagger in some city in Italy, meeting an Itahan in Cheapside 
 with a dagger by his side, reproached him with his countrymen's conduct, snatched his 
 dagger from his side and broke his head with it. This led to a general commotion and a 
 destruction of the houses and properties of most of the Italian merchants in London. 
 -Several other commotions, which were said to have been promoted by the king's enemies, oc- 
 
 E 
 
14 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 curred in the city. In consequence of one, that occun-ecl in Fleet Street, between the students 
 of the inns of court and "the inliabitants, in which the queen's attorney was killed, the 
 principal of Fumival's, Clifford's and Barnard's inns were committed prisoners to Hertford 
 castle, and William Taylor the alderman of the ward, with some other eminent citizens, was 
 committed to the castle at Windsor. 
 
 In the beginning of the year 1458, a reconciliation having been proposed between the 
 king and the duke of York, the king and queen, with the dukes of York, Exeter and 
 Somerset, the earls of Warwick, Northumberland and Salisbury, with many others of the 
 principal nobility, attended by their respective retinues, arrived in the city for that pm-- 
 pose. The lord mayor caused a guard of 5000 trust-worthy citizens to keep guard 
 every day under his own immediate command, and 20QO to relieve them by night, under the 
 command of three aldermen. By which prudent measure the peace of the city was pre- 
 served. 
 
 A compromise having taken place, the results were made known to the public, and a 
 grand procession to St. Paul's followed on the 5th of May 1458, in which the nobility walked 
 in pairs, one of each party hand in hand, and the duke of York leading the queen with 
 every external appearance of cordiality. 
 
 This hollow truce lasted however but a short time ; the king's party became successful and 
 the duke of York was compelled to flee to Ireland. Lord Scales was commanded by the king 
 to take possession of the city, but the citizens favoming the Yorkists, the lord mayor refused 
 to permit an armed force to enter within its walls. Lord Scales, however, suspecting that 
 the citizens intended to admit the earl of March, took possession of the Tower, and threat- 
 ened to lay the city in ashes, in case the rebels were admitted. His threats were disre- 
 garded and lord March was received by the citizens with loud acclamations of joy. Scales 
 kept his word and bombarded the city from the Tower, with such effect as to destroy a 
 number of buildings, but the earl of SaUsbuiy blocked up the Tower on every side and 
 saved the city from further destruction. 
 
 By the death of the duke of York, in a dreadful battle between the partisans of the rival 
 houses of York and Lancaster, his son Edward Plantagenet, who is above mentioned as 
 earl of March, succeeded to his father's title, and prosecuted the unholy war with the most 
 implacable resentment. The earl of Warwick distrusting the citizens and not choosing to 
 be cooped up within their walls, marched out against the queen's army, where he was 
 defeated in a desperate battle at Barnard's Heath, near St. Alban's. 
 
 The young duke of York entered London on the 21stof Febmai-y 1461, and was received 
 by the citizens, who had previously cut off the queen's supplies, with the greatest rapture, 
 and he was proclaimed king by a large body of them in Clerkeuwell Fields on the pro- 
 posal of the earl of Warwick. A council was immediately held at Baj-nard's Castle ; tlie 
 new king rode in procession to St. Paul's, and, after being crowned at Westminster, re- 
 turned to the city by water, where, taldng up his residence at the bishop of London^s 
 palace, he was" proclaimed king by the name of Edwai-d IV. In truth, says Mr. Norton, 
 the good will of the citizens was thought by Edward to be so main a bulwark of his 
 throne, that he never failed during the course of his reign to use every means of pre- 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 15 
 
 serving it. Besides securing to them in the most ample manner their ancient privileges, 
 he increased them hy 'the grant of several very beneficial charters ; and even conde- 
 scended to live among them on terms of the most convivial familiarity. 
 
 Edward, though only in the twentieth year of his age, had scarcely ascended the throne, 
 when he exhibited symptoms of a sanguinary disposition. He beheaded an opulent citizen, 
 a grocer in Cheapside, for saying he would make his son heir to the crown, meaning his own 
 shop, of which it was the sign. On the same day he marched his army through the city 
 out at Bishopsgate, in search of his rival the unfortunate Henry, to whom he gave victo- 
 rious battle at Towton, in Yorkshire. On his return he went firom his palace at Sheen to 
 London, and was met at Lambeth by the lord mayor and aldermen, with all their for- 
 malities, dressed in scarlet, attended by 400 citizens in green, and mounted on horseback. 
 By this splendid escort he was conducted to the Tower, whence two days sifter he was simi- 
 larly escorted to Westminster, and crowned with great splendour. 
 
 The city of London never before stood in such great estimation as in this reign, nor had 
 its citizens ever before possessed so great an influence in settling the government. Its 
 fortifications were so complete, and so well guarded, as often to defy, in this stormy 
 period of its history, the most powerful armies. Edward, in gratitude for such signal ser- 
 vices, gi-anted the citizens many immunities, and four several charters. He also gave the 
 first charter to the German merchants of the steel yard. 
 
 At this period the citizens were so tenacious of their privileges, that upon a grand enter- 
 taiiiment beiiig given by the judges at Ely House, to which the mayor, aldermen, sheriffs 
 and many of the principal citizens were invited ; the most honourable place being assumed 
 by the lord treasvirer Baron Ruthen, the lord mayor claimed precedency as having pre- 
 eminence of all persons, after the king, within the liberties of the city. The treasurer 
 remained inflexible, and the lord mayor retired with his fellow citizens, and entertained 
 them himself with great hospitality. 
 
 On May day 1465, the king married the beautifiil and accomplished Elizabeth Wood- 
 ville, and she was crowned at Westminster a few days afterwards, when he showed his 
 esteem for the citizens by installing their lord mayor, Sii- Thomas Cook, a knight of the Bath. 
 In this year the king enlarged and strengthened the fortifications of the Tower of London, 
 and erected a scafibld and gallows on Tower HiU, but, on the remonstrance of the mayor 
 and citizens; he declared by proclamation that it was not to be considered in derogation of 
 their rights. 
 
 In the year 1466 the before-mentioned Sir Thomas Cook was impeached of high treason 
 and committed to the Tower ; and notwithstanding his acquittal, he was obliged to pur- 
 chase his liberty by paying to the king the exorbitant sum of afiSOOO. At this period, the 
 court of Edward was graced with ambassadors firom almost every power in Europe ; but 
 none shone so resplendently as Anthony, Bastard of Birrgundy, who was sent over by his 
 brother the count de Chai-olois, duke of Burgundy, to conclude a marriage between that 
 prince and the Lady Margaret, sister to the king. The bastard, who was greatly celebrated 
 for his chivalrous prowess, challenged the lord Scales, brother to the queen, to contend with 
 him in various feats of aims. The challenge being accepted, the king commanded lists to 
 
16 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 be prepared in Smithfield, and magnificent galleries to be erected for the reception of the 
 illustrious spectators. The tournament lasted three days, and the EngUsh knight was 
 declared the victor. In June 1468 the princess Margaret set out for Burgundy, to celebrate 
 her huptials with the duke, and was met in Cheapside by the lord mayor and aldermen, 
 who in the name of themselves and their fellow citizens presented her with two rich basins, 
 containing 100 lbs. of gold in each. 
 
 The next year of Edward's reign was distinguished by many popular commotions, which 
 were principally excited by the earl of Warwick, who felt himself neglected. When this 
 nobleman, who is distinguished in our history by the name of the king-maker, took up 
 arms openly against Edward, the earl of Rivers, father to the queen, was made prisoner 
 and beheaded. The king was also placed in confinement at Middleham Castle, fi:om 
 which he escaped to Holland, leaving his queen in the Tower of London ; who fearing 
 her life fled to the sanctuary at Westminster. On the queen's departure, the custody of the 
 Tower was entrusted to the lord mayor. Sir Richard Lee and the aldermen, who removed 
 the deposed king Henry from the place of his imprisonment to the royal apartments. 
 
 After many conflicts in which the neighbouring villages of Limehouse, Ratcliffe, and 
 St. Katherine's, were plundered and burned, the parliament that was summoned by War- 
 wick and the duke of Clarence, in the name of king Henry, was adjourned to St. Paul's, 
 where it sat from November till Christmas. To avoid committing his fellow citizens by 
 taking part in these violent proceedings, the lord mayor, John Stockton, feigned sickness. 
 Edward did not remain idle ; for on the 12th of March 1471 he landed in England, assisted 
 by his brother-in-law the duke of Burgundy, and proceeded with all possible expeditioD 
 to London. On his arrival, the lord .mayor and aldermen demanded and obtained pos- 
 session of the Tower in Edward's name, and on the 11th of April following he again 
 entered his capital in triumph, and was received by the citizens with the highest demon- 
 strations of joy. Edward put himself immediately at the head of his forces, and left the 
 city, to which Warwick was hastening by forced marches, and on the 14th of April, being 
 Easter Sunday, the two armies met near Bamet, and a desperate battle was fought, in 
 which no quarter was given on Edward's side, Warwick was slain, and Edward confirmed 
 on his throne. Edward hastened to London, immediately after this sanguinary conflict, and 
 proceeded to St. Paul's, where he deposited his own and his enemies' standards. The 
 citizens indulged as usual in splendid festivities in commemoration of the event. 
 
 An adventurer, known by the name of the Bastard Falconbridge, who, after having been 
 vice-admiral of the channel, commenced pirate, entered the suburbs of Southwark with an 
 army of 17,000 men. On the 14th of May, 1471, he attempted to enter the city by the 
 way of the bridge ; which however he found to be so well fortified and defended that he 
 could not succeed, although he proceeded to storm it. A party of his army crossed the river 
 elsewhere, and made their way into the city by the way of Aldgate, but were driven out 
 by the valour of the citizens, headed by one of tlieir Aldermen, Robert Bassett. Being thus 
 defeated, Falconbridge embarked at Blackwall, and sailed round to Sandwich, where, after 
 a battle with Edward, he was taken prisoner, and, with several of his companions, was 
 executed, and their heads fixed upon London Bridge. The king M'as So gi-atified witli the 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 17 
 
 gallant defence of the citizens, that he knighted the lord mayor, John Stockton, twelve of 
 the aldei-men and the recorder. On the 21st of May, Edward entered the city in triumph, 
 and the next morning king Henry VI. was found dead in the Tower. 
 
 The following year, 1472, will be ever memorable in the histoiy of London, by the in- 
 troduction of the art of printing into England, by William Caxton, citizen and mercer of 
 London. The first book printed in London by this eminent citizen was a treatise on chess, 
 ti'anslated by himself from the French, and dated 1474. This noble art soon got into great 
 repute, for previous to Caxton's death, which occurred in 1491, we find Theodore Rood, 
 John Lettou, Willianl Macheline and Wynkin de Worde, foreigners, and Thomas Hunt, an 
 Englishman, aU printers within the city. 
 
 In the year 1475 an act of common council was passed, by which the election of the 
 lord mayor and sheriflfs, which had till then been in the whole body of the citizens, was 
 vested in the masters, wardens and liverymen of the several city companies, as at the 
 present day. 
 
 The gates, walls and other fortifications of the city, being in a very decayed state, the 
 lord niayor and aldermen resolved to repair them, with bricks made and burned in Moor- 
 fields ; and that the expense of such repairs should be defrayed by a collection raised 
 among the inhabitants at large. But the sum not being sufficient, the draper's, skinner's and 
 goldsmith's companies repaired various parts, and the town ditch was also cleansed. 
 
 The king, who long wanted to get rid of the Duke of Clarence, summoned the lord 
 mayor and aldermen to attend the privy council, to witness the accusations that were 
 trmnped up against him. With their consent, he was committed to the Tower, M'here be 
 was tried, condemned and executed^ in so private a manner, that the mode of it is a secret 
 to this day. In June, 1479, the citizens purchased a third and fourth charter from tlie 
 Idjig at a laj'ge expense, and in the September following a dreadful pestilence raged in 
 London tiU the November in the following year. 
 
 To evince his great regai'd for the citizens of London, the king invited the lord mayor, 
 aldermen and chief citizens in 1480 to a grand hunt in Waltham Forest, in which several 
 deer were killed and the entertainment concluded with a sumptuous feast. Shortly after 
 tliis, to show his regard for the city ladies, his majesty, whose gallantry towards them, is 
 broadly hinted at by Philip de Gommines, sent a present of two harts, six bucks and a ton 
 of wine to the lady mayoress, who entertained the aldermen's wives and other ladies with this 
 royal donation at Draper's HaJl. 
 
 This monarch, after an eventful reign of twenty-three years, died at Westminster on the 
 9th of April, 1483, and was succeeded by his son Edward V., who was then in the thii-teenth 
 year of his age. The reins of government were assumed by his uncle Richard, Duke of 
 Gloucester, as protector during the king's minority, and he was immediately proclaimed in 
 London. The queen mother on hearing of this appointment, and of Gloucester's impri- 
 soning the lords Rivers and Gray, Sir Thomas Vaughan and other fiiends of the young 
 king, in Pomfret Castle, immediately left London and fled for refiige to the sanctuary at 
 Westminster. The citizens also caught the general alarm, took up arms in great number 
 
 F 
 
18 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH -CENTURY; 
 
 and joined the nobility, who had done the same, until Hiey could learn the motives fcr thus 
 making a captive of their young Mag. 
 
 The Duke of Gloucester, unwilling to incense the Londoners, sent Lord Hastings, who 
 was much esteemed by them, into the city, to assure them of the uprightness of his mten- 
 tions. This pacified them m some degree, and, on the 4th of May, he and the young king 
 were met at Hornsey Park by lie lord mayor, aldermen and five hundred of the principal 
 citizens, richly dressed and mounted on horseback. This splendid retinue of Londoners 
 escorted the king, and his attendants with great pomp to the city, where he was received 
 with great joy, and the same night took up his residence in the palace of the Bishop of 
 London. Gloucester performed his part so well on this occasion, that he rode before tlie king 
 barehead, exclaiming to the people " behold your king j" and on his arrival at the bishop's 
 palace reinewed his oath of allegiance, in which he was followed by all the prelates and 
 . nobles present, together with the lord mayor and aldermen of London. 
 
 The young king was splendidly lodged in the palace of the Tower of London, where he 
 was speedily joined by. his younger brother the Duke of York ; and great preparations were 
 made for the proposed coronation. But on the 13th of June one part of the privy council 
 met at Westminster, for the purpose of notifying to the city magistrates in due form the day 
 of the coronation, and the other part, with the protector, riiet in the Tower. Here that ex- 
 traordinary scene was performed, where emissaries of the protector proclsumed treason, 
 wounded Lord Stanley on the head with a pole axe, and seized him with the Archbishop of 
 York, the Bishop of Ely and Lord Hastings. The latter of these noblemen, whom Glou- 
 cester had inveigled by his dissembling into his grasp, was immediately executed on a log 
 of wood which lay accidentally in a court of the Tower. 
 
 As an apolo^ for. this summary outrage, the protector sent for the mayor, aldermen and 
 leading citizens of -London,^ on whose concurrence he founded his chief hopes of success, 
 and, besides a hypocritical speech, he issued a proclamation which was read throughout the 
 city. This proclamation,, says Sir Thomas More, in his life of Edward V., was, although 
 got up in such haste, in such good style of composition, at so great length and so beau- 
 tifiilly engTossed on parchment, that, as was sarcastically observed by a citizen, it seemed 
 certainly penned in the spirit of prophecy. This apology failing in its intended eflFect, Glou- 
 cester tried other measures to engage the aid of the citizens, and made their lord mayor 
 Sir Edmund Shaw a privy councillor; by. which, means he obtained the interest of Dr. 
 Ralph Shaw, his brother, a very eloquent and popular preacher, who abused .his faculties and 
 his calling by preaching to the citizens at St. Paul's Cross in favom- of the usurper. 
 
 The impression intended to have been made on the citizens, by this sermon, having failed 
 in its object, a new expedient was resorted to. Orders were sent to the lord mayor. Sir 
 Richard Shaw, who had become a complete tool of the protector's, to convene a common 
 hall. This meeting was accordingly held, but Mr. Norton has rescued the citizens from a 
 part of the obliquy that has been attached to them for this act, by the discovery* that it 
 
 * Norton's Com, p. 170, u. 
 
LONDON IN TflE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 19 
 
 was a meeting out of the common cojurse, and not, regjijaxly coJiyened according to th(? 
 statute. No entiy of it is therefore to be found in any of the city.books,allJiough every 
 other in Richard's protectprate and reign are duly entered. The plausible .speech of the 
 Duke of BucMngham ,and , the coru^uctof the citizens on this memorable occasion are well 
 known and need npt be- J^epeated-in this brief abstract of civic history. The result was, 
 tha.t Richard was proclaimed king, and hi^.^irst act of sovereignty, was the murder of his 
 two nephews, one of them being his king to whom he had twice sworn fealty. 
 
 The great, body of the citizens returned to their homes, in giief, but the members of the 
 corporation attended the usurper's coronation, with the lord mayor as cup bearer, in gi^eat 
 pomp. Their claim in this particular, says Mr. Norton, was formally allowed and still 
 remains on record jn the town clerk's oiBpe. The new king, Richard III., to testify his 
 gratitude for this honour, took up his residence among the citizens at Baynard Castle. 
 
 The ^eath of Richard III., in, the memorable battle of Bosworth Field, placed his suc- 
 cessful rival, the Earl of Richmond, on the throne pf England, with the title of Henry VII. 
 The fii-st act;, of the, new king was to enter his capitfd, and he was met on his v^ay.by-the 
 lord mayor, aldermen and chief citizens at Highgate, and received in Shoreditch by the 
 principal corporate Companies in their formalities. Henry, however, entered the city, in a 
 close litter, and did not condescend to court the suffrages of the corporation, whose conduct 
 to his predecessor could not much have gra1;ified him ; but proceeded direct to St. Paul's, 
 where he retiimed public thanks for his great and auspicious victory, and deposited the 
 standards taken in, ,the, battle. lie took up his residence at; the bishop's palace, .where on the 
 following day he assembled a council and solemnly renewed the oath he had previously taken 
 before, the battle of Bpsworth. 
 
 In the s^sion of parliament held in 1487-8, the jmisdiction of the lord mayor of London, 
 and his successors, over the river Thames was confirmed, and although the citizens were 
 liberalin their loans, beneyqlesnces and other contributions to the king's necessities, less 
 cordiality subsisted.ljetween the monarch and his good citizens of London in this reign than 
 in almost any qther in our, hiS|tpry. Yet upon one occasion the king gave the citizens a 
 grand entertainment in Westminster Hall, and conferred the honour of knighthood on the 
 lord. mayor. 
 
 On the 4th of .October, 1501, Katherine of Arragpn, infanta of Spain, lauded at Plymouth, 
 and made a grand public entry into the city. On the 12th of November. The corpofation 
 received the princess with due honours and splendour, and on the 14th of the same month, 
 she was married in St. Paul's Cathedral to Arthur, Prince of Wales, in the presjence of the 
 lord, mayor , and chief citizens, who were subsequently entertained in the great hall of the 
 Bishop of London's palace. The , newly married couple resided for a fax days in the city, 
 and were then escorted by the lord mayor, aldennen and the corporate companies of the 
 city in their splendid barges to Westminster. 
 
 : In the year ,1502 kjng Henry took down the old and decayed lady chapel at the east end 
 of Westminster Abbey and a tavern that adjoined it, and erected on their sites the splendid 
 mausoleum that .bears his name. The river Fleet was also this year cleansed out, widened 
 and made navigable to Holborn Bridge; and about five years afterwards dean Collet founded 
 
20 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 that excellent institution St. Paul's School, which has been recently augmented, and the 
 school -house rebuilt by the Mercers' Company, his trustees. 
 
 On the 22nd of April, 1509, the king died at his palace of Richmond, leaving an unex- 
 ampled treasure in money, jewels and plate locked up in its vaults, and was immediately 
 succeeded by his eldest surviving ,son, who was proclaimed the next day with the usual 
 solemnities, and with the style and title of king Henry VIII.' The new Mng, shortly after 
 his proclamation, mai-ried the widow of his deceased brother Arthur, and proceeded with 
 his queen from the Tower to Westminster through the city, the streets, houses and public 
 buildings being splendidly decorated. 
 
 The new king, imitating the conduct of some of the eastern monarchs, in 1510 went into 
 the city in the garb of a yeoman of the guard, to witness the grand cavalcade of the city 
 watch on the eve of St. John. He was so pleased with the ceremony, which, twice in 
 ev^ery year, was accompanied by the lord mayor and city officers in state, that he returned 
 on St. Peter's eve, with his queen and the principal nobility. The procession, which was 
 very grand, was illuminated by nearly a thousand large lanterns fixed on the ends of long 
 poles. The whole formed a grand sight and gave the highest satisfaction to the royal 
 pair. 
 
 In this reign may be dated the commencement of what may be called an English royal 
 navy, of ships of war, established by the government for the national defence. The fra- 
 ternity of the Trinity House was instituted in 1512, and the dock yards of Woolwich and 
 Deptford established. In the following year the batteries or forts at Gravesend and Tilbury 
 were first constructed as a defence for the upper part of the Thames. In 1523 the city ditch 
 was again cleansed, the fortifications looked to and other public improvements effected. 
 
 In 1522 the Emperor Charles V. arrived in England on a visit to king Henry, who met 
 him at Dover, and accompanied him to Greenwich. On their arrival in the city, the lord 
 mayor, aldermen and sheriffs, in all their formalities, attended by the principal citizens on 
 horseback, received them with a magnificence that would be almost incredible, did we not 
 know fiom incontestible authority the pompous habits of the age of Henry VIII. The 
 emperor was conducted to Blackfiiar's, and the princes and nobility of his retinue to the 
 new palace at Bridewell. The Mng and queen of Denmark also paid the Mng a visit in 
 this year, and were as splendidly received and lodged by the citizens. St. Peter's eve oc- 
 curring during theii* stay, their majesties went to the King's Head in Cheapside, to witness 
 the splendid ceremony of mustering the city watch. 
 
 Shortly after tMs period, Henry, by the advice of his minister Wolsey, ordered a survey 
 of the kingdom, in order to take a tenth of the property of the laity, and a fourth of that of 
 the clergy, but the opposition raised to this measure by the citizens rendered it necessary to 
 avoid a rigid exaction. The sum thus raised being insufficient, a parliament was sum- 
 moned and met at Blackfriars on the 15th of April, 1523, but the supplies demanded were 
 gi-anted so unvidllingly, and with such restrictions, that no parliament was called for seven 
 years after. 
 
 By an act of parliament of the fourteenth and fifteenth of Henry VIII., c. 2, tlie juris- 
 diction of the city corporations was to extend two miles beyond the city, namely, the 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 21 
 
 town of Westminster, the parishes of St. Martin in the Fields, and our Lady in the Strand, 
 St. Clements Danes without Temple Bar, St. Giles's in the Fields, St. Andrews in Holhom, 
 the town and borough of Southwark, the parishes of Shoreditch, Whitechapel, St. John's 
 Street, Clerkenwell, and Clerkenwell, St. Botolph without Aldgate, St. Katherines near the 
 Tower, and Bermondsey. 
 
 Such were the suburbs of our great Ifletropolis in 1524. They were greatly detached, 
 and the intervals were principally public fields. The Strand was then occupied by mansions 
 and dwelhngs of the nobility, which were surrounded by large and splendid gardens; and 
 a considerable portion of the parishes of St. Martin and St. Giles were literally, as they are 
 still called, in the fields, as were ^so a great portion of the city of Westminster, and the 
 parishes or villages of Clerkenwell, Shoreditch, and Whitechapel, and the borough of 
 Southwark. 
 
 The plague raged so fiercely in London, towards the latter part of this year, that the 
 King and his court removed to Eltham ; Michaelmas term was adjourned, and the city 
 was so deserted by its inhabitants, that the ensuing Christmas was denominated, fi:om its 
 lack of usual mirth and festivity, " the still Christmas." 
 
 Wolsey being appointed ambassador extraordinary to the French court, in 1527, made a 
 poTttpous depai'ture fi-om the city, attended by a numerous train of the chief nobility, gentry, 
 and clergy, to the amount of twelve hundred horsemen ; and in the same year two embassa- 
 dors extraordinaiyaiTived fi:om the court of France, and made a grand public entry into the 
 city. They were lodged in the bishop of London's palace, and liberally entertained by the 
 lord mayor and corporation. 
 
 The rumour of tiife king's intended divorce fi-om queen Katherine was so ill received by 
 the citizens of London, on the arrival of cardinal Campeijus as joint commissioner with 
 Wolsey for that pm-pose, that insurrections were apprehended. To allay this feeling, the 
 Mng addressed a numerous assemblage of nobles, prelates, tlje lord mayor, aldermen, 
 and principal commoners of the city, in the hall of his palace of BridewelL 
 
 The behaviour of the citizens, in the measure of Henry's attempt to throw ofi" the power 
 of the papal yoke, so pleased the king, that he granted them extended powers, by his last 
 charter dated the 13th of April in the 22nd year of his reign, which is preserved in the im- 
 peximus charter of Chai'les II. ; and commanded a general muster of the defensible men of 
 the city, w^hom he reviewed in the fields between Whitechapel church and Stepney. The lord 
 mayor, aldermen, recorder, and sherifis, attended the muster, accoutred in white armour, and 
 black velvet coats embroidered with the city arms, with gold chains about their necks, velvet 
 caps on their heads, and gUt battle axes in their hands, attended by pages, sen^ants, and a 
 gi-eat number of the citizens on horseback superbly dressed. They passed in review before 
 the king and his splendid court, who expressed themselves abundantly satisfied with their 
 martial appearance. 
 
 On the public declaration of the marriage of the Mng with Anne Boleyn, Henry ordered 
 the lord mayor and citizens to make preparations for conducting her firom Greenwich by 
 watet to the Tower ; and that the city might be decorated on her proceeding the following 
 day to Westminster, to be ctowned. This was performed with all the corporation's wonted 
 
 G 
 
22 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 magnificence and splendour, aided by all the city companies and principal citizens. The 
 queen was highly pleased with the magnificence of the procession, and, on her arrival, re- 
 turned the mayor and citizens her sincere thanks for their pompous attendance. 
 
 An act of parliament was passed, in 1534, for paving the west-end of the high street in 
 London, between Holborn and Holbom bridge, and also the streets in Southwark; and in 
 the following yeai- the common council granted two-fifteenths towards defiraying the ex- 
 penses of bringing water fi-om Hackney to Aldgate, where a conduit was erected for the use 
 of the eastern part of the city. 
 
 In the same year, Hemy assumed the title of supreme head of the church ; and, in order 
 to show his title thereto, beheaded Fisher, bishop of Rochester, and Sir Thomas More for 
 denying his supremacy. In May 1636 he imprisoned and beheaded his second queen Anne 
 Boleyn, at which horrible murder, the lord mayor, aldermen, and sheriffs were com- 
 pelled to attend; and married on the next day Jane Seymour, who died in the October fol- 
 lowing, twelve days after the birth of Prince Edward. 
 
 In the year 1538 the common council passed an act for the better regulation and pre- 
 servation of the navigation of the Thames; and other regulations were made by the citizens 
 for the improvement of the city and its liberties. In the following year, the king, fearing 
 that some of his continental neighbours, stirred up by tJie pope, might attack his dominions, 
 put himself in a state to receive them : — and, among other means of defence, ordered all his 
 subjects firom the age of sixteen to sixty to be mustered. He also issued a similar commis- 
 sion to the lord mayor of London, Sir William Foreman, who immediately mustered the 
 citizens of those ages at MUe-end. This was the greatest muster ever made by the citizens 
 of London previous to those of the volunteers during the French revolutionary war, con- 
 sisting of three divisions of five thousand men each, exclusive of pioneers and other at- 
 tendants. They marched in martial order through the city to Westminster, where they 
 were reviewed by the king and the nobility, who expressed great satisfaction at their 
 splendid and soldier-Uke appearance. 
 
 On the public entry of the Princess Anne of Cleves, Henry's new bride, she was met on 
 Blackheath on the 3rd of January, 1540, by the king, accompanied by the lord mayor, 
 aldermen, and citizens of London, with all the foreign merchants resident in the city, and es- 
 corted in grand state to the royal palace at Greenwich. The royal pair were conveyed in 
 the grand city barges, with the lord mayor and chief citizens, to Westminster, where they 
 were married, and in a few months after divorced. On the 8th of August, of the same year, 
 Katherine Howard, to whom the king had been some time privately married, was publicly 
 declared queen of England. 
 
 About this time Robert Brocke, one of the king's chaplains, invented the method of 
 making leaden pipes for conveying water under ground, Mntliout the use of solder, and 
 Robert Coope, a goldsmith of the city, was the first who made them, and put the invention 
 in practice. In 1541 an act of parliament was passed for paving the street leading firom 
 Aldgate to Whitechapel church, the upper pai-t of Chancery Lane, the way leading fix)m 
 Holborn Bars to St. Giles's in the Fields, as far, says the statute, as any habitation is on 
 both sides of the street, Gray's-Inn Lane, Shoe Lane, and Feuters (now Fetter) Lane. At 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUBY. 23 
 
 this period, says Hakluyt, the merchants of London had extended their foreign trades to 
 the Brazils. On the 12th of February 1542 Henry beheaded another of his queens, 
 Catherine Howard, and her confident lady Jane Rochfort, on Tower Hill. 
 
 In consequence of a scarcity this year, the common council of London passed an act 
 restraining the lord mayor firom having more than seven dishes at dinner or supper, the 
 aldermea and sherifis being limited to six, the sword-beaier to four, and the mayor's and 
 sherifiPs attendants to three, with other laws against luxurious feasting. 
 
 The parliament of this year passed two acts relative to the city, one for the better paving 
 of such parts of the city and suburbs as were omitted in the foimer act, and the other for 
 the embanking and dividing Wapping Marsh. In 1541 TUbuiy Fort was built of stone, 
 being previously only a mud fort, and a battery opposite to it at Graresend, and the city was 
 tliis year visited with a violent attack of the plague, that carried off many of its inhabitants. 
 In 1545 the twelve chief companies of the city advanced the king a large sum on a mort- 
 gage of certain of the crown lands, and alderman Read, who had reiused a benevolence, 
 was sent as a common soldier into Scotland. In the same year the citizens raised and 
 ■ completely fitted out a regiment of 1000 foot soldiers, as a reinforcement to the army in 
 France. 
 
 On the conclusion of a peace between England and France, it was proclaimed and com- 
 memorated in the city with great splendour on Whitsunday 1546 ; and on the arrival of 
 the French ambassador in the August following, who landed at the Tower wharf, he was 
 met by the lord mayor, aldermen and citizens, and conducted to the Bishop's palace, where 
 he was presented by the city with four large silver flagons richly gilt, besides wine and 
 other costly gifts. 
 
 The king having dissolved, among many others, the priory and old hospital of St. Bar- 
 tholomew in Smithfield, he founded it anew shortly before his death, and endowed it with a 
 handsome revenue, on condition that the city should contribute an equal sum. This pro- 
 posal being accepted, the new foundation was incorporated by the name of " The hospital 
 of the mayor, commonalty and citizens of London, governors for the poor, called Little St. 
 Bartholomews, near West Smithfield." 
 
 Shortly after this act of charity, king Henry VIII. died, on the 28th of January 1547, 
 and was succeeded by his son Edward VI., then in the ninth year of his age. His 
 maternal uncle, whom he created duke of Somerset, was chosen protector of the kingdom, 
 £ind guardian of the youthful king. The lord protector commenced his office by knighting 
 the king, who being qualified took the sword of state, and conferred a similar honour upon 
 the lord mayor. Sir Henry Hoblethom. 
 
 The reformation in religion now assiuned a more steady aspect than in his turbulent 
 father's reign. The rood, and other emblems of popery, were formally removed from St. 
 Paul's. The gathering of the city watch, that had been put down by Henry, was revived 
 in aU its ancient splendour by Sir John Gresham, then lord mayor. 
 
 The city, together with the nation at large, disliking the administration of Somerset, after 
 many bickerings, deputed alderman Sir Philip Hobby to remonstrate with the king, who in con- 
 sequence committed the lord protector to the Tower, to which place he was conducted by the 
 
24 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 citizens tvith marks of exultationi In the year 1550 the king granted a charter which con- 
 veyed to the city, in the most ample terms, a very extensive property in Southwafk, the 
 manor and all manorial rights over it, together with a large jiuisdiction, both civil and cfi- 
 riiinal. This valuable estatej says Edward Tyrrell^ Esq.*, deputy remembrancer of the 
 city, has been considered as applicable to the maintenance of London Bridge, and is now 
 chatged with the payment 6f k large sum for rebuilding the present bridge. No trust of this 
 nature, continues this eminent legal authbrity, is mentioned in the charter ; and, after pay- 
 ment of the existing charges, the estate ought to rerett back to the corporation. 
 
 The citizens in 1551 joined in security to the bank of Antwerp for money advanced to 
 the Mng ; and having purchased, with the manor of Southwark, the hospital of St. Thomas 
 the Apostle, they repaired and enlarged it at a considerable expense. The king, in return, 
 incorporated the lord mayor, commonalty and dtizens of London, governors of the hospital, 
 togethei: with those of Christ and Bridewell : the former for the relief and education of 
 young and helpless childfen, and the latter for the lodging of poor wayfaring people, the 
 cotteetion of vagabonds and disorderly persons, and for providing them with work. 
 
 On the 6th of July ., 1553, the young king died, leaving a wiU, which set aside his sisters, 
 Mary and Elizabeth, and left the crown to the lady Jane Grey. Some preparations were 
 made to carry this into effect ; but, as the sense of the nation was against disturbing the 
 succession, the council met at Baynard's Castle, when, after consulting the lord mayor, 
 aldfermen, and recorder, they all proceeded to Cheapside^ where they proclaimed the princess 
 Mary, daughter of Mng Henry VIII., queen of England. After which ceremony they 
 proceeded to St. Paul's, where the Te Deum was sung in commemoraticin. On the 3d of 
 Augfust the new queen made her public entry into the city, preceded by the lord mayor in a 
 crimson velvet gown, bearing a golden sceptre. 
 
 Although the queen promised liberty of conscience in religion to all her subjects, she re- 
 stored the papist Bonner to the see of London, whose chaplain in a sermon at St. Paul's 
 took leave to cast reflections upon the memory of the deceased king Edward. This so 
 incensed the LondonerSj that they hissed the preacher, pelted Hm vrith brick-bats and 
 stones, and one of them threw a dagger at him with so good an aim liiat it stuck in the 
 pulpit. 
 
 In the first year of her reign, Mary demanded a loan of £20,000 from the city, which 
 was levied upon the aldermen and 120 of the chief commoners. On the last day of Sep- 
 tember in the Same year the queen rode in great state from the Tower, through the city, to 
 Westminster. The citizens received her with such respect, that on her .alighting at the 
 palace at Whitehall she publicly thanked the lord mayor. On the following day she was 
 ctowned with the greatest magnificence, the lord mayor and twelve of the chief citizens offi- 
 dating as chief butier; for which seirice the mayor received a gold cup and cover, 
 weighing seventeen otrndfes, as Ms fee. 
 
 * In hia notes to Norton's Com, p. SOO. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 25 
 
 The proposed maniage between the queen and Philip of Spain was first publicly 
 announced by the lord chancellor, to the lord mayor, aldermen, and forty of the principal 
 commoners, who were summoned to attend the privy council for this purpose. This 
 announcement occasioned the commotion called Wyat's rebellion, in which queen Mary had 
 great reason to apprehend the entire defection of the city, whose power and influence she 
 so much dreaded, that she suddenly repaired in person to the Guildhall, where she was 
 met by the lord mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and the chief of the city companies. She 
 harangued them in a long and soothing speech, which had a good effect, and she left the 
 city in the care of the lord mayor and the lord Howard. 
 
 The termination of this rebellion, which, however, was not accomplished without much 
 bloodshed, was followed by dreadful scenes of persecution. The city jury, who acquitted 
 Sir Nicholas Throckmorton at Guildhall, were commanded to appear before the council, and 
 fined £500 each. 
 
 The marriage, however, took place, and the royal couple made a public entiy into the 
 city, which was sumptuously adorned, and they were received with great testimonials of 
 attachment. 
 
 At this period of the civic history, the expenses of serving the public offices had become 
 so great that many of the principal citizens retired fi:om the city rather than incur them. 
 The common council therefore restrained them by a sumptuary act, which regulated the 
 economy of every festival, and added for the first time an allowance out of the city chamber 
 to the lord mayor, in alleviation of his charges in entertaining his fellow citizens on lord 
 mayor's day. The allowance thus granted in consideration, as the act expresses it, of the 
 great annual expense of the mayor and sheriffs, in providing a sumptuous entertainment at 
 GuUdhaU on lord mayors' days, and for the honour of the city, was the sum of £100 a year. 
 
 Such a raging fever occurred in London towards the end of the year 1555, that great 
 numbers of the citizens were carried off, and, among others of the higher classes, seven 
 aldermen fell victims to its ravages within ten months. In the year 1557, says the author 
 of The Present State of England, a work printed in 1683, drinking glasses were fii-st 
 manufactured in England. The finer sort were made in Crutched Friars, and fine flint 
 glass, nearly equal to that of Venice, was first made about the same period in the Savoy 
 near the Strand. 
 
 In March 1558 the queen borrowed of the chief city companies the sum of £20,000 on 
 the security of certain lands, and allowed them twelve per cent, annual interest thereon. 
 In the November of the same year queen Mary departed this life, and was succeeded by 
 her sister the princess Elizabeth, who was proclaimed queen in London with the usual 
 formalities and with gi-eat demonstrations of joy. The lord mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and 
 commonalty of the city met their new sovereign at Highgate, in her way from Hatfield, 
 and conducted her with great pomp to the tower of London. On the 14th of January 
 following the queen rode through the city to Westminster, and was addressed by the 
 recorder in the name of his feUow citizens. 
 
 On the 4th of June, 1561, the spire of St. Paul's cathedral was struck by lightning and 
 consumed ; and in 1563 the plague again broke out in London with ^eat violence. The 
 
 H 
 
26 XONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 first manufacture of krtives in England, says the before quoted author of The Present State 
 of England, was est^bUshed in the same year by Thomas Matthews, a cutler on Fleet 
 Bridge. The English company of merchant adventurers, obtained a charter in the year 
 1564 from queen Elizabeth, which constituted them a body politic, and gave them many 
 important privileges. 
 
 In 1566 Su- Thomas Gresham, an opulent city merchant, built his celebrated exchange, 
 which was subsequently named royal by the queen. At his death he bequeathed it to the 
 mayor and citizens of London for ever. The advantages which the city offered to foreigners 
 were such, that in 1580 the numbers of Dutch, French, and Italians, had so increased that 
 the lord mayor and aldennen remonstrated to the queen against the vast increase of new 
 buildings and number of inhabitants within the city and its suburbs. Her majesty there- 
 fore issued a proclamation, by which it -was forbidden to erect any new building within three 
 miles from the city gates, where no former house could be remembered to have been by any 
 one living. 
 
 The tide machinery at London Bridge, for raising water for the supply of the inhabitants, 
 was erected in 1582 by an ingenious German of the name of Peter Maurice, who received 
 great encouragement from the corporation. 
 
 During the period of the threatened Spanish invasion, the citizens of London aided the 
 public cause by supplies of soldiers, money, and Other services of war. Sir Thomas Sut- 
 ton, the founder of the charter house, an eminent London merchant, frustrated it for one 
 year, by seeming all the money in the bank of Genoa, at a considerable loss to himself. 
 In 1589 the corporation lent the queen ^15,000, and supplied her with 1000 men; and in 
 1594 the lord mayor and common council fitted out six ships of war and two frigates, stored 
 for six months, and added 450 soldiers. In the year 1599 the Spaniards threatened a 
 second invasion, notwithstanding the dispersion of their celebrated armada in 1588, and the 
 citizens not only aided the queen as before, but formed an honorary body guard from the 
 most eminent of their body. 
 
 Owing to the exorbitant price of pepper and other spices, as charged by the Dutch 
 East India Company, the queen granted a charter in the year 1600 to a company of 
 London merchants, under the denomination of " the Governor and Company of Merchants 
 of London trading to the East Indies," which has since risen to such great eminence both in 
 the commercial arid political world. 
 
 In Rymer's Fcedera (vol. xvi. p. 448) is another proclamation of Elizabetli for restiaining 
 the increase of buildings in the metropolis, by which she conunands all persons to desist fix)m 
 any new buildings of any house or tenement vpithin three miles of any of tlie gates of 
 London, unfinished buildings on new foimdations to be pulled down, and other restrictive 
 clauses. It is a remai-kable circumstance, that, notwitlistanding the readiness witli wliich tlie 
 citizens of London always answered the demands of tlie queen, slio granted them no 
 charter or immunities, nor even confirmed those of her predecessors, during her long reign. 
 In fact, as appears from Norton's Commentaiies, the citizens had no charters granted tliem 
 from the fourth year of Edward VI. to tlie third of James I. ; and yet as appeaa-s from the 
 custom house lists, published in Anderson's History of Gonimerce (vol. iL p. 960), London 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY; 27 
 
 exported at the latter end of Elizabeth's reign three times as much as aU the rest of 
 England together. 
 
 This great queen died on the 23rd of March, 1603, and was succeeded by Mng James 
 VI. of Scotland, who was proclaimed in Cheapside by the lord mayor and citizens with the 
 usual pomp and ceremony. Owing to the plague, which raged in this year with great 
 violence, the public reception of the new king was deferred till the following spring, when 
 he was received and entertained by the citizens in a most siunptuous manner. 
 
 James also, in imitation of his predecessor, issued a proclamation against the extension of 
 buildings in London, and granted his first charter, which gave the corporation many 
 valuable privileges. In 1607 his majesty granted them a second arid more extended charter, 
 wherein, among other immunities, he enlarged the limits of the civic jurisdiction by com- 
 prisiQg within it the districts of Duke's place. Great and Little St. Bartholomews, Black- 
 friars', Whitefriars', and Cold Harbour, with a proviso (which they stiU claim) that the in- 
 habitants of Blackfriars' and Whitefiiars' shall be exempt from particular contributions 
 of scot, and watch, and ward, and from the particular offices of constable and scavenger. 
 
 In the year 1609 the king assigned the whole province of Ulster in Ireland to the citizens 
 of London, on condition of their establishing an English colony in that country, under the 
 government of a committee of aldermen and conmion councilmen, which is still xoritinued 
 under the title of the Irish Society of London,- 
 
 In this reign Sir Hugh Middleton forined that useful undertaMng called the New River, 
 which was began in 1608 and complieted in 1613 ; and iu 1611 Sir Thomas Sutton founded 
 the establishment called the Charter-house, in the ancient convent of Carthusian monks, 
 called the Chartreuse. In the twelfth year of his reign James granted the citizens his third 
 aiid last charter, which confirmed the admeasiurement 6f coals in the port of Loiidoii from 
 Yantlet Creek to Staines Bridge; In 1616 the citizens colonized the town of Deny, to 
 which they gave the narue of Londonderry, and built the town of Coleraine. In the same 
 year they sent the first civic deputation to Ireland, and presented each of the' above named 
 corporations with a rich sword of State. ' 
 
 The lord mayor and citizens took such umbrage at the king's " Book of Sports," which 
 tolerated certain sports on the Sabbath day, .tiiat, to show their contempt for his maj-esty's 
 orders, they stopped one of the royal carriages as it was driving through the city in the 
 time of divine service. This gave great offence to the king, but after some concessions it 
 was passed over. 
 
 A resolution having been made of repairing the 'cathedral of St. Paul, the king, the 
 prince of Wales, and many of the chief nobility went in great state from Whitehall to the 
 city, on Sunday March 26th, 1620. The royal party was met at': Temple i^Bar by the lord 
 mayor, the aldermen, the sheiiflFs, and the rest of the corporatioiif and attended the cathe- 
 dral, where divine service was performed; and measures concerted for-the execution of this 
 great work, which was afterwards so splendidly executed by his able architect^ the cele- 
 brated Inigo Jones. 
 
 In. the yearil624, an act of parliament was passed to make the river Thames navigable 
 for barges, lighters and boats from London to Oxford; and on the 27th of March 1625 
 
28 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 king James died at his favourite residence at Theobalds, near Cheshunt in Hertfordshire. 
 Tliis cii-cumstance being known, tfee lord mayor, aldemen, sheriffs and common council 
 repaired to Ludgate, where they met the privy council and the young king, whom they 
 proclaimed with the usual ceremonies. 
 
 The coronation and public entry of the king and his bride, to whom he had been married 
 but a few days, was postponed as in the former reign on account of the plague, which 
 again ravaged the metropoHs. Charles had scarcely began to reign, when dissensions arose 
 between him and the citizens, twenty of the principal of whom he imprisoned for refusing 
 a loan of money. The disputes between the king and the citizens continued during the 
 whole of his unhappy reign, and the levying of ship-money was a fruitfiil source of con- 
 tmual warfare between his ministers and the citizens. In 1636 an order was sent from the 
 privy council commanding the lord mayor and aldermen to shut up all the shops in Gold- 
 smith's Row, namely, the south side of Cheapside and Lombard Street, that were not occu- 
 pied by goldsmiths. This order not being complied with, it was backed by a decree of the 
 court of star-chamber. The citizens paid no regard to either of these orders, and the king 
 sent farther orders and farther threats, which were equally disregarded. 
 
 Notwithstanding these disputes, the corporation received a charter from the king, for 
 which they paid a large sum. It recites and confirms all the preceding charters from Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror to his own time, and grants the citizens farther immunities. This 
 charter was not long respected; for in 1639 the ministry commenced a suit in the court of 
 star-chamber against the lord niayor and citizens, which took from them all their dearly 
 purchased possessions in Ulster, and they also amerced them in a fine of dE50,000. The 
 parliament however interfered, and obliged the king to annul the decree and to confirm the 
 grant of his father to the citizens. The city being called on in the year following to raise 
 a large body of men, to sen^e against the Scots, a rising of the city apprentices took place, 
 who marched to Lambeth in order to mmder the archbishop of Canterbury, and, being after- 
 wards joined by above 2000 of the populace, they rushed into St. Paul's, drove out the 
 high court of commissioners, tore up aU the benches, exclaiming no bishops ! no high com- 
 mission. 
 
 Such like turbulent scenes, between the king and the citizens, were of constant recur- 
 rence. The court amerced the corporation and imprisoned some of its aldermen for 
 refusing compliance to its arbitrary commands. At last the diflferences between them arose 
 to such a height that the king forbade the citizens from presenting any petition to bim con- 
 cerning redress of grievances. 
 
 On the king's return from Scotland, he was received by the lord mayor and corporation, 
 with great distinction. After dining with them at Guildhall, the king embraced the lord 
 mayor at parting, and invited him and the rest of the aldermen to his palace at Whitehall 
 the ensuing day ; where he made the lord mayor a baronet, and knighted all tlie aldermen 
 who attended. 
 
 Notwithstanding this apparent cordiality, the king almost immediately afterwards de- 
 prived the citizens of their command over the Tower, and appointed one of his own officers 
 to govern it. On the dispute between the king and the house of commons, when he 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 29 
 
 attempted to seize five of its members in person, they fled to the city for protection. The 
 citizens armed themselves in their defence. The king came into the city and demanded the 
 impeached members of the common council, who with great firmness refused to deliver 
 them up. The citizens delivered this refiisal by way of remonstrance, directed to the king, 
 from the lord mayor, aldermen, and cormnon coimcil. 
 
 The grand committee appointed by the house of commons, to deliberate on the state of 
 the nation, assembled for safety in Guildhall; and afterwkrds accompanied the five accused 
 members in great state to Westminster, where they were received by the city trained bands, 
 who were publicly thanked for their sendees, and ordered to attend the house daily. After 
 Charles's departui-e fi-om the metropolis, the parliament demanded large supplies of men 
 and money from the corporation, and on its refusal they committed the lord mayor. Sir 
 Richard Guniey, to the Tower. 
 
 Shortly after the battle of Edgehill, the common council passed an act for fortifying the 
 city, which was done with such despatch, that a rampart, with bastions, redoubts and other 
 bulwarks, was shortly erected round the cities of Lofidon and Westminster, and the bo- 
 rough of Southwark. The citizens took such a decidbd part in the civil wax between 
 Charles and his parliament, that, on hearing of a proposed reconciliation, the lord mayor 
 convened a court of common council, who presented a petition to the house of commons 
 against any accommodation. They also in 1644 sent two well provided regiments to the 
 assistance of Sir William Waller, the parliamentary general. 
 
 After the decisive battle of Navesby had secured the triumph of the pai-liamentary army, 
 both houses of parliament attended a thanksgiving sermon at Christ Church, Newgate 
 Street, and were afterwards entertained by the corporation. The victcffious party kept up 
 the best possible terms with the citizens, who aided them by loans and contributions. When 
 the house of commons had become openly a tool of Cromwell, and threw off the mask, 
 violent quarrels took place between the leaders of the parliamentary faction and the corpo- 
 ration. At the trial of the king, several of the leading citizens were appointed among the 
 number of the king's judges, but, after his condemnation and death, many of the aldermen 
 absolutely refused to proclaim a commonwealth. 
 
 On this overthrow of our ancient monarchy, the house of commons usurped the supreme 
 power, and commanded the lord mayor to proclaim an act for the abolition of monarchy. 
 This was peremptorily reftised, and the house immediately committed the refiractoiy mayor to 
 the Tower, fined him £2000, and degraded him from his office. Cromwell however, finding 
 it to his interest, became reconciled with the citizens, and bon-owed a large sum of money 
 firom them to defray the expenses of his expedition to Ireland. On the installation of the 
 usurper, at Whitehall, the lord mayor and entire corporation attended the ceremony, and 
 invited the protector to a grand entertainment, wlio in gratitude returned thanks to his 
 faithful citizens, and conferred the kingly honour of knighthood on the lord mayor. 
 
 Cromwell and the citizens remained on fair terms till the protector's death, on the 3rd of 
 September, 1658, when the lord mayor and the privy council proclaimed his son Richard 
 lord protector of the kingdom. Disputes between the new protector and the citizens soon 
 began, and the city was forthwith put into a posture of defence. The council of state 
 
 I 
 
30 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 ordered general Monk to take possession of the city with his army, who, however, aAer a 
 slight attempt at destroying the gates, endeavoured to keep on good terms with the citizens, 
 who, in return, elected him major general of their forces. 
 
 Monk and his party, finding all things ripe for the restoration of the exiled monarch, sent 
 him an invitation to return to his dominions. The king sent grateful answers to the parlia- 
 ment and his friends, and a letter to the lord mayor, aldermen, and common council, who 
 immediately sent fourteen of their body, with a present of d£l 0,000, and an order that 
 Richmond Park, which had been given to them by Cromwell, should be presented to his 
 majesty. The day following he was proclaimed in the city by the lord mayor and corpora- 
 tion amidst the universal and joyful acclamations of the citizens. The king received the 
 civic deputies with unfeigned joy and conferred upon them the honours of knighthood. He 
 also confirmed to the city their estates in Ireland, of which they had been illegally deprived 
 by his father, by which tenure the corporation and the twelve chief livery companies still hold 
 them ; and conferred upon them that which Mr. Norton emphatically calls a grand inspexi- 
 mus charter. This charter is usually appealed to as the text of the city charters, and is 
 generally called by pre-eminence the inspeximus charter. In the same year the Royal 
 Society was established, which has ever since retained its original high rank in science. 
 
 In the beginning of May, 1665, London was again visited by the most dreadful of those 
 periodical maladies called the plague, which had so often ravaged this city. This mortality', 
 which swept away upwards of 90,000 persons, has been admirably naiTated by Daniel 
 Defoe, to whose interessting pages our readers are referred for the particulars of its melan- 
 choly details. 
 
 In the following year occurred that dreadful visitation the great fire of London, which, 
 although it was at the time a great calamity and public loss, may be tndy considered as a 
 benefit to all who have succeeded that calamitous period. By its means tiie city was 
 piuified fi:om its narrow and incommodious stieets and infectious timber houses, and it 
 occasioned a more noble city to rise upon its ruins. The city of Charles II. and of Wren, 
 however it may be surpassed in point of private buildings, and magnificent streets, by the 
 improvements of George IV. and the able architects of our day, as the pages and illustra- 
 tions of this work show, yet exhibits in its beautiful cathedral, and other works of that great 
 architect, buildings of admirable beauty and proportion. 
 
 Charles immediately assembled both houses of parliament, who passed an act for 
 erecting a court of judicature to settle aU the diflFerences between landlords and 
 tenants ; and shortiy after another for rebuilding the city, which contained rules and direc- 
 tions for all persons concerned therein. The com-t of common council also passed an act 
 for regulating the widths and other details of the proposed new streets and tiiorough- 
 fares, which was so approved, by the king and privy council, that it was confirmed and 
 directed to be enforced by an order of council on the 8th of May. Many of these orders of 
 council, printed for the only time fi-om a manuscript book of orders, in the life of Sir Christo- 
 pher Wren'by the author of this work, and formerly in his possession, but now the property 
 of professor Soane of the Royal Academy, prove the great zeal of the king and all his 
 court to rebuild the city vdth splendour; but it was counteracted by private interests and 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 31 
 
 cabals. Many other public acts and edicts, both of parliament and of the common coimcil, 
 were passed for accomplishing this .great undertaking, and on the 29th of October 1675, 
 when Sir Robert Viner commenced his mayoralty, the king dined with the corporation at 
 Guildhall, and accepted the freedom of the city from the hands of Sir Thomas Player the 
 chamberlain. 
 
 In 1676 a great part of the borough of Southwark was destroyed by fire, but was re- 
 built under the direction of commissioners in a similar style of improvement with those 
 going on in the city of London; which was attempted to be burned a second time in 
 1679. 
 
 After Charles II. found himself secure upon his throne, he began like his predeces- 
 sors to fleece and punish the citizens, who in return opposed his oppressive measures with 
 great firmness. Party dissensions ran high, particularly against the Duke of York on ac- 
 coimt of his religion. The king, disliking the proceedings of the corporation, proceeded to 
 stiU more arbitrary measures, and issued a writ of Quo Warranto against the city to tty 
 the validity of its charter, asserting that its liberties and privileges were usurped. In the 
 Trinity term following (1683), chief justice Jones pronounced the charter to be forfeited. Eight 
 of the aldermen were degraded, and also the lord mayor, a new one being appointed by 
 the king, to continue during his pleasure. The recorder was displaced by one of the 
 king's partizans, and in fact the city was arbitrarily deprived of all its rights and privileges. 
 Among the public improvements of this period must be mentioned that about the year- 1683 
 the delivery of letters by the penny post was first established in London, by an upholsterer 
 of the naine of Murray. 
 
 In 1685 an event occurred which has been of more importance to the population and 
 manufactures of the city, than almost any other during these turbulent times; namely the 
 revocation of the edict of Nantes by Louis XIV. This religious persecution drove eight 
 hundred thousand industrious artizans and manufacturers fi-om France into England. The 
 greater part of these refugees, who were principally silk weavers and dyers, and ingenious 
 manufacturers, settled themselves in the neighbourhood of Spitalfields, St. Giles, and Soho. 
 That faithless and arbitrary monarch Charles II. died on the 6th of February 1685; 
 but his successor James II., who remembered the city's attacks upon him and his re- 
 ligion, did not prove much better. Charles satisfied himself with, seizing only the city 
 charters; but James attempted to infringe those of all the corporate companies, whom he 
 conceived to be the most elFectual barriers against his premeditated introduction of popery. 
 He imprisoned alderman Cornish, and afterwards hanged him opposite his house at the end 
 of King Street, Cheapside. 
 
 Finding himself deserted by almost all his subjects, James began to conciliate the citizens 
 and on the 6th of October, 1688, restored the city charter by the hands of his chancellor 
 Jeflfries, and, at a subsequent court of common council, an order was made to restore the 
 liverymen of the several companies who had been deprived of their privileges. 
 
 On the flight of James, and the landing of the Prince of Orange, the lords spiritiial and 
 temporal assembled in Guildhall, where they signed and, published their celgbrated declara- 
 
32 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 tion, which sealed the liberties of their country. The Prince of Orange was invited 
 to assist in forming a free government, and in settling the administration of public 
 affairs. This public act was immediately followed by an address from the lord mayor, alder- 
 men, and common council, and another from the court of lieutenancy of the city, expressing 
 similar sentiments. Many tumults took place in the city during this state of interregnum; 
 and in one of them the infamous judge Jeflries was discovered in the disguise of a sailor at 
 WappiUg, waiting for an opportunity to escape from a country whose justice he had so 
 abused,, where he was seized by the populace, and beaten to such a degree, that he shortly 
 after died of his bruises. 
 
 On the abdication of James, the Prince of Orange called a council of suca persons as 
 had been members of any of Charles the second's parliaments, together with the lord mayor, 
 the aldermen, and fifty of the court of common council, to consult on the settlement of the go- 
 vernment; and raised a loan from the city of two hundred thousand pounds to pay the 
 soldiers. The government being finally settled in the persons of William Prince of Orange 
 and the princess Mary his consort, daughter of the dethroned monarch, as king and queen of 
 England, they were proclaimed in the city with the usual honours, and many acts of courtesy 
 passed between the king and the citizens. He restored the charter of Charles II., 
 under the authority of an act of parliament, and granted them another, which constituted 
 certain of the aldermen justices of the peace within the city, and restored the citizens to all 
 their ancient rights and privileges. 
 
 In the year 1694 the establishment of the Orphan's fund took place, and that now great 
 commercial and political corporation the Bank of England was instituted. This year is 
 remarkable also for the death of queen Mary, on wluch occasion the lord mayor and corpora- 
 tion presented an address of condolence to the king. In 1697 the king visited the corpora- 
 tion on his return from HoUand after the treaty of Rhyswick, and was received with cordial 
 and sincere regard. 
 
 On the death of James II., in France, the French king caused his son to be pro- 
 claimed king in his stead, notwithstanding the late tieaty of peace with William. This con- 
 duct was so highly resented by the citizens, that they presented a very spirited address to the 
 lords justices who governed in the king's absence. 
 
 King William dying at Hampton Court on the 21st of February, 1702, the princess Anne, 
 daughter of James, was proclaimed queen, to the universal satisfaction of the nation. On 
 the great victory over the French, her majesty attended a public tlianksgiving at St Paul's, 
 accompanied by both houses of parliament, when the citizens rendered the ceremony more 
 than usually splendid. 
 
 In 1703 the city was doomed to another great calamity; for in the night of the 16tli 
 of November there happened the most dreadful storm of wind that had occun-ed in tlie 
 memory of man. It began about ten at night, and raged with imabated violence till seven 
 in the morning. The damage done to the buildings of the metropolis was prodigious. 
 The newly built and the then building chiu-ches were variously injured, and the damage 
 done in the city alone has been estimated at two millions of money. It was on this occa- 
 sion, when Sir Christopher Wren was informed that all his new steeples had been damaged, 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 33 
 
 replied with the rapidity of thought " not St. Dunstan's I am sure :" and the mathematical 
 architect was right, for it was almost the only one that was perfectly undamaged. 
 
 The standards, colours and other military trophies taken by the duke of Marlborough at 
 Blenheim, having been deposited in the Tower, were escorted in gi-and procession through 
 the city, and put up in Westminster Hall. 
 
 The year 1710 is celebrated in civic history, as that wherein fifty new churches were 
 ordered by act of parliament to be erected within the cities of London and Westminster, 
 and two shillings a chaldron laid on coals to defiay the expenses; and 1713 for the peace 
 with France, when both houses of parliament came in procession into the city and joined 
 the lord mayor and citizens in a public act of thanksgiving in St. Paul's cathedral. 
 
 Queen Anne died on the 1st of August 1714, when the elector of Hanover was pro- 
 claimed king, with the usual solemnities, as George I., and was attended by the cor- 
 poration. He knighted the leading members and diaed in public with them on the 
 following lord mayor's day at Guildhall, when he conferred a patent of baronetcy on the 
 lord mayor, and gave ^1000 to the poor debtors. 
 
 On the thi-eatened invasion, the city displayed its usual loyalty whenever their king be- 
 haved with even tolerable propriety, and the rebellion in Scotland under the eaii of Mar 
 was but of short duration. The year 1720 will always be merdorable in our history for the 
 celebrated scheme of plunder known by the name of the South-sea bubble, which reduced 
 nobles, merchants, bankers, clergymen, lawyers and tradesmen to utter ruin. 
 
 In consequence of the great increase of the western suburb of London in 1722, the 
 society called the Chelsea water-works company was established by the authority of par- 
 liament to supply them with water; and another useful act for the regulation of party- walls, 
 and water-spouts overhanging public streets, was also enacted. In 1724 Guy's hospital, of 
 which an account will be foimd in our further pages, was .built and endowed by a book- 
 seller whose name it bears, and the city increased in wealth and importance. 
 
 On the 11th of June 1727 the king died at Osnaburgh in Germany, and was succeeded 
 by his son George II., who was immediately proclaimed by the lord mayor and cor- 
 poration in the ancient and usual manner, and publicly congratulated by them on his 
 accession to the throne. The king and queen afterwards dined at Guildhall, where they 
 were entertained with great splendom- and hospitality. On the 26th of February 1733 the 
 corporation petitioned the house of commons and obtained leave by act of parliament to 
 stop up and arch over Fleet ditch, and subsequently erected Fleet market on its summit, 
 which has been very recently taken down and converted into Farringdon Street. Fleet 
 market was opened on the 30th of September 1737, and was taken down about the same 
 month of the year 1829. 
 
 In 1738 the citizens rendered themselves unpopular vidth the court party by their strenuous 
 and successful opposition to the general excise laws. The miscarriage of this odious mea- 
 siu-e was celebrated by public rejoicings all over the metropolis, and the effigy of Sir Robert 
 Walpole, the minister who projected it, was burnt amidst great acclamations. Sir Robert re- 
 taliated by calling the citizens a set of sturdy heggars, and circulated printed lists of the 
 members of the corporation with the addition of their several trades and companies,' in 
 
 K 
 
34 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 order to bring them into contempt by showing the low nature of the callings of many of 
 them. The citizens again testified their dislike of the premier, by rejecting the semo 
 alderman fi-om the office of lord mayor for voting in favour of the minister. 
 
 ■Until about this period no particular building had been provided for the use of the lord 
 mayor for the time being. Each chief magistrate held his mayoralty either at the hall of 
 his company, or in a private mansion of his own, erected or enlarged for the purpose ; 
 of which private mansions there are yet many remaining in the city. This method being 
 found inconvenient, and deficient in appropriate grandeur for the growing importance of the 
 office, the corporation resolved to build a mansion for the use of the lord mayor. After 
 much deliberation the site of Stocks market, which had recently been removed to Fleet 
 market, was fixed upon, and the first stone was laid by the lord mayor (alderman Perry) on 
 the 25th of October, 1739, with great ceremony. It was finished in 1753, Sir Ciisp 
 Gascoigne being the first lord mayor who inhabited it. The year 1739 is also celebrated in 
 our history for the estabUshment and erection of the Foundling Hospital. On the 15th of 
 August, 1741, the king granted the city a new charter, which after reciting the charter of 
 Charles 11., and also that of William and Mary (which only appointed certain of the 
 aldermen to be justices, and required either the mayor or recorder to be of the quorum), 
 constitutes* all the aldermen for the time being justices of the peace, and makes the 
 mayor, the recorder, and all those aldermen who have passed the chair, of the quorum. 
 This charter is the last which has been granted to the city. 
 
 On the erection of the rebel standard in Scotland by one of the Pretender's sons, a 
 message was sent by the king to the lord mayor and corporation, who waited on his 
 majesty with a loyal address. This was followed on the succeeding day by one from the 
 merchants of the city. The piincipal inhabitants formed themselves into volunteer corps 
 for the national defence, and the members of the inns of com-t formed themselves into a 
 regiment under the command of the lord chief justice Welles. The corporation subscribed a 
 voluntary contribution of money, in which they were joined by the quakers, who transmitted 
 warm wooUen clothing to the army. The close of this rebellion by the battie of CuUoden 
 is well known, and the corporation sincerely congratulated their constitutional king on the 
 happy event. The surplus of the money raised by the corporation, and not required for the 
 public service, was distributed to various useful charities. 
 
 On the 18th of December, 1755, the court of common council resolved to. petition parlia- 
 ment for leave to build a new bridge over the Thames at Blackfiiars, which was presented 
 on the 13th of January following, and an act of parliament shortiy after obtained for that 
 purpose. This period is also celebrated for the establishment of that useful charity, the 
 Marine Society, by the benevolent exertions of Jonas Hanway. 
 
 The city experienced another calamity from the ravages of fire, by the total destruction 
 of the timber bridge that was erected over the Thames, while the last important additions, 
 repairs, and improvements were going on. The colours taken fi-om the French at 
 Louisbm-gh, were escorted in grand procession on tiie 6th of September, 1758, fi-om Ken- 
 
 * Norton's CommentftrieB, p. 530. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 35 
 
 sington Palace to St. Paul's Cathedral, where they were deposited as national trophies ; and 
 on the 16th a number of pieces of artillery and mortars taken at Cherburgh were similarly 
 conducted through the city to the Tower. 
 
 The first step towards the many recent improvements in the city may be said to have been 
 taken about this time; for at a court of common council held on the 17th of June, 1760 
 (the same month wherein the first pile was driven for the building of Blackfiiars' Bridge), 
 the committee of city lands were empowered to put in execution an act of parliament 
 passed in the ensuing sessions for widening and improving the several streets in the city. 
 Their first work was to open the east end of Cnitched Friars into the Minories. The city 
 gates were also sold and puUed down ; and the statue of queen Elizabeth, which stood on 
 the western side of Ludgate, was purchased by alderman Gosling, and set up against the 
 east end of St. Dunstan's church in Fleet Street, fi:om which place it will shoiHy be 
 removed when that ancient edifice is puUed down. 
 
 A few days after the king had been waited on with a congratulatory address by the lord 
 mayor and corporation on the completion of the conquest of Canada by the capture of 
 Montreal, he expu-ed suddenly on the 25th of October, 1760, and was succeeded by his^ 
 grandson George III. 
 
 The new king was proclaimed on the following day in the front of Saville House in 
 Leicester Square, his then residence, in presence of the leading nobility and gentry, and the 
 lord mayor, aldermen, and common council, who afterwards proclaimed the youthful monarch 
 with the customary formalities in the usual places within the city. 
 
 No reign has ever been of more importance in our history than that of George III. 
 Whether it be considered for its duration, its military and political struggles, or the great 
 improvements in the public and private buildings that have taken place in the metropolis : 
 improvements, however, that are honoiu-ably rivalled by those of our present king. 
 
 The mayor and corporation attended the coronation of the king and queen^ and their majesties 
 honoured them by dining -with them in public at Guildhall. The court of common council 
 erected a statue of the king in the Royal Exchange, and voted portraits of their majesties to 
 be put up in Guildhall ; other civilities and courtesies passed between the new king and the 
 citizens, which were not of longer duration than those of their predecessors. On the 12th of 
 August, 1762, the queen gave birth to a prince, his present majesty, and on the 14th the lord 
 mayor, aldermen, and common council, waited on the king with a congratulatory address. 
 
 Shortly after this event, the first disputes between the king and the citizens began by the 
 arrest of John Wilkes, under the authority of the now exploded system of general warrants. 
 These disputes continued for a length of time, with little credit and less profit to either 
 parly. 
 
 Among events of more peaceful and lasting interest, the common council voted £500 to 
 the Society of Arts in the Adelphi, and the king established the Royal Academy of Arts. 
 On the 14th of May, 1770, the lord mayor (Beckford) laid the first stone of the new prison 
 of Newgate, which was the last public act of that eminent person's life, whose merits were 
 acknowledged by his fellow citizens in erecting a bad statue in Guildhall to his memory. 
 
36 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 About this period the corporation got into a dispute with the house of commons, whose 
 authority in the city they denied by refusing to execute their warrants, and even by dis- 
 charging the prisoners that were arrested by them. The house resented this contempt by 
 committing the lord mayor (Crosby) and alderman Oliver to the Tower. The conduct of 
 these two magistrates was so much approved by the common council that a vote of thanks 
 was given them, and a committee appointed to conduct their defence at the expense oi the 
 city. At the prorogation of the parliament they were liberated as a matter of coiu-se, and 
 the procession from the Tower to the Mansion House partook of the nature of a triumph. 
 
 In the year 1777 the angry feelings which had been playing about the political horizon, 
 between the British colonies in America and the mother coxmtry, began to assume a more 
 decided feature, and the citizens of London took an active part in the discussions. Warm 
 disputes also arose relative to the right of impressing seamen within the city, which was 
 strenuously opposed by the corporation. The civil war which now raged between England 
 and her American colonies was opposed by the citizens in every possible way, and the 
 opponents of government were flatteringly received in all their public meetings. John Wilkes 
 was elected chamberiain of the city on the 22nd of November, 1779, by a very large 
 majority. 
 
 In the following year the city was disgraced by those memorable riots which had religion 
 for their pretended basis. Its principal leader, lord George Gordon, was at length committed 
 to Newgate, and the peace of the city re-established. The lord mayor, alderman Keimett, 
 was tried for his misconduct during these disgraceftd scenes and found guilty. 
 
 Owing to reasons which have never been publicly acknowledged, the health of the king 
 suffered extremely, and his ma.iesty's mental powers sank under their exertions. This 
 occasioned great and real public grief; for the private virtues of George III. were acknow- 
 ledged by all classes of his subjects. The corporation and members of the city took part 
 with the ministry in the memorable regency question, which was suddenly put an end to by 
 the king's recovery. On the 10th of March, 1789, the day on which his majesty's recovery 
 was officially announced to the public, the whole metropolis was splendidly illuminated, and 
 all ranks joined in congratulations. On the 19th the corporation presented a loyal and sin- 
 cere address, and on the 23rd of April his majesty, accompanied by the queen, the royal 
 family, both houses of parliament, and the whole corporation of London, attended a public 
 service at St. Paul's cathedral, to return thanks for his recovery. The procession from 
 Westminster, and the reception in the city, were equally grand and suitable to the occasion. 
 
 The next occurrences that are memorable in the city history are the long revolutionary war 
 with France, the peace, the popular regency and peaceful reign of our present king, during 
 which period the metropolis has received those splendid improvements that are the subjects 
 of our other volume. " But it is true," says Mr. Norton in his commentaries, " that many 
 events, exciting intense temporary interest of a political nature, have from time to time 
 agitated the city ; but as none of them produced a lasting, if any, effect on its genuine cor- 
 porate privileges or constitution, it is conceived^ the history of them may be properly left 
 to those volumes which have treated of them at large." 
 
Drawn, "fey Tha H Shcrpharl: 
 
 EzLfirarTBd Try X ^BSt^^ 
 
 FROM THE RIVER. 
 
 1 
 
 ■WJE STmJt:^ ST3EM. A^R^BJEX^ 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 37 
 
 St. Paul's Cathjedral. 
 
 The cathedral church of St. Paul is not only the roaster-piece of its illustrious architect, 
 Sir Christopher iWren, but is at the same time one of the .purest spccimjens of Italian archi- 
 tecture, .and altogether the finest modem Protestant cathedral in Europe. 
 
 With the ancient cathedral that stood on this spot, previous to the fire oi London, this 
 work has nothing to do ; yet the fine Corinthian portico, that was most iaappropriately added 
 to its west end by Inigo Jones, must not be passed by without recording the opinion of the 
 celebrated earl of Burlington in its favour, who, when viewing the smaller colyimns of the 
 present building, exclaimed " when the Jews saw the second temple they wept." 
 
 After many accidents by tempests and ifire, the ancient cathedral became so dilapidated 
 that the dean and chapter, in 1662, fitted up a portion of the choir for divine service; and in 
 the following year a royal commission was issued under the great seal appointing Wren to 
 be the architect to the proposed repairs, and ordering a survey and report of its condition to 
 be made : for which purpose he commenced taking a series of plans and sections of every 
 part of the structure, and laid down his intended improvements. Among these he proposed 
 adding an Italian cupola to Jones' Coriniiiian portico, which, -n-ith the Gothic spire and 
 pointed arches of the rest. of the ancient edifice, would but have increased the jumble of its 
 discordant parts. 
 
 To the credit of Charles II., who had improved his taste and knowledge cf the -fine arts 
 during his exile fi-om his kingdom and his throne, one of the principal objects which occu- 
 pied his mind on his return was the reparation of that cathedral which had engaged the 
 talents of his father, and grandfather, and their tasteful architect Inigo Jones. During the 
 government of the commonwealth the revenues of the cathedral had been confiscated, its 
 clergy expelled, its ancient monuments profaned, saw-pits dug in vaaious parts of its sacred 
 inclosure, and its venerable choir converted into horse-barracks for the Oliverian troopers. 
 
 Charles, on his restoration, expelled the rabble fi'om their quarters in the cathedral, re- 
 stored the clergy, and commenced the work of reparation with zeal and honesty. John 
 Evelyn was also .employed with Wren on this survey, and agreed with him that the expan- 
 sion of the walls was the effect of decay and stress ..of the roof, and not a purposed design 
 for increasing an optical effect ! as some of the other surveyors reported. 
 
 During the discussion of this and other points relating to the cathedral, the deliberations 
 of the commissioners were closed by the awful burning of the greater part of the city, which 
 struck terror into the minds of the whole nation. 
 
 After -this dreadful conflagration, which has however conferred important benefits on suc- 
 ceeding generations. Wren was appointed one of the commissioners, as well as architect, 
 for rebuilding the ruined city and the cathedral. His first operation was to fit up a portion 
 of the dilapidated cathedral, by way of a temporary choir, in which the dean and prebends 
 might perform divine service until the old cathedral should 1)e repaired, or a new one be 
 built. 
 
 I. 
 
38 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 The fruitless endeavours to repair the old cathedral continued till the year 1668, when 
 the question was nearly brought to an issue by the falling of part of the western end, which 
 had been fitted up for a temporary choir. After various deliberations, letters, reports and 
 meetings. Wren's judgment and science prevailed over the narrow-mindedness and self-suffi- 
 ciency of his opponents. An order was therefore issued by the king in councU to take down 
 the walls, clear the ground, and to adopt other proceedings, exactly as recommended in the 
 architect's report. A portion of the duty on coals, which was levied for the rebuilding of the 
 city and parochial churches, was set apart exclusively to the cathedral. 
 
 In the year 1671, and during the progress of the works. Wren found the site so encum- 
 bered with the old materials and rubbish, that it was impossible to proceed with the neces- 
 sary investigation of the ruins, which, contrary to his opinion, the commissioners were still 
 anxious to repair. He therefore obtained proper authority, sold the old materials, and had 
 the money paid into the chamber of the city in aid of the new building. 
 
 It was not till the year 1673 that the futile idea of repairing the old cathedral was aban- 
 doned, when the architect was desired to make designs for an entire new edifice, worthy the 
 honouf of the country, and calculated to rival every edifice of its kind in Europe. Wren, 
 therefore, prepared various designs for the new cathedral, and submitted them to the king 
 and the commissioners. Finally, one was adopted and the works were began, under a 
 royal commission bearing date November 12, 1673. 
 
 Sir Christopher, having appointed his officers, and began clearing the niins, preparatory to 
 laying the new foundation, the great work of rebuilding, instead of repairing the cathedral, 
 commenced. The various annoyances that he sustained during its progress are satisfactorily 
 detailed in works which relate to this subject. Suffice it to say, in this more brief account, 
 that in the beginning of the year 1675 the first contract was made for a portion of the works 
 between the commissioners and the architect on the one part, and Thomas Strong, who also 
 buUt the church of St. Stephen's, Walbrook, and other.public buildings under Sir Christopher, 
 on the other. Shortly afterward, the king and the privy council approved the designs, and 
 issued a warrant dated the 14th of March, 1675, directed to the commissioners, empowering tlie 
 architect to proceed and complete his great work. The first stone was laid the 21st of June 
 following; and in the beginning of April, 1685, the walls of the choii" and the stupendous 
 arched vaults below the pavement were completed, as well as the two beautifiil semicircular 
 porticoes of the north and south transepts. In 1687 the commissioners contracted for roofing 
 the nave and aisles of the choir, and in 1694 it was finished as fai- as the stonework, and 
 the scaiFolds of this part were struck both from within and without. Evelyn in his diary 
 records it as being a piece of construction vnthout reproach. On the 2nd of December, 
 1696, the choir was opened for divine service on the day of the public thanksgiving for tlie 
 peace of Rhyswick; and on the 1st of February, 1699, that beautiful portion of the building, 
 the morning prayer chapel, was also opened for divine semce with appropriate cere- 
 monies. 
 
 In 1708 the works of the cathedral approached so near to completion tliat on tlie 23rd of 
 Febniary Sir Herbert Mackworth, in the house of commons, brought up fi-om tlie commis- 
 sioners a report that the cupola was ready for covering, and it was ordered to be done in tlie 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 39 
 
 manner now seen. The statue of Queen Anne in the fore coui't of the cathedral, carved by 
 Bird, was erected during the course of this year. 
 
 In the year 1710, when Sir Christopher had attained the seventy-eighth year of his age, 
 the highest stone of the lantern on the summit of the cupola was laid by his eldest son 
 Christopher, assisted by the architect, Mr. Strong the master mason, and the lodge of free- 
 masons, of which Sii- Christopher had been for many years the active as well as acting 
 master. In the following year the well known persecution, so iuUy related in the various 
 pamphlets of the day, was began against the architect, who appealed to Queen Anne with- 
 out much success. 
 
 Thus was this noblest of Protestant cathedrals began and completed, as far as buUding 
 goes, in the space of thirty-five years, by one architect, one principal master mason, and 
 under one bishop of London ; while the Catholic cathedral of St. Peter's, at Rome, occupied 
 a space of 150 years, in building, was the work of more than twenty architects, supported by 
 the treasure of the whole christian community, under the protection and pontificates of nine- 
 teen successive popes, attended by the best artists of the world in sculpture, painting and 
 musaic, and facilitated by the ready acquisition of marble from the neighboiuing quarries of 
 Tivoli. 
 
 In the year 1714 the commission for building the cathedral expired, and in May 1715 a 
 new commission was issued, dated the 1st of George I., for the carrying on, finishing and 
 adorning the cathedral of St. Paul. In 1717 the commissioners erected the balustrade 
 round the whole building on the summit of the upper cornice, in direct opposition to the 
 wishes and declared opinions of its architect. 
 
 The plan of St. Paul's cathedral is a long, or, as it is architecturally termed, a Latin cross, 
 widened at the west end by projections that form the morning prayer chapel and the court 
 of consistory. In the angles of junction, where the north and soufli transept cross the 
 naves, are similar projections that form buttresses to the cupola, and serve for vestries and 
 staircases. Each end of the transept is terminated by a beautiiul semicircular portico, 
 which for originality of design, beauty of execution, justness of proportion and appropriate- 
 ness of character, are not surpassed in any modem building. 
 
 The intersection of the body of the cathedral by the transepts is formed into a gi-and ,and 
 spacious area. 'The four great piers that support the cupola are boldly perforated, which 
 gives surprising lightness and elegance to the design. The end of the choir is terminated 
 by a semicirculai recess in which is the altar. 
 
 We will first take a view of this cathedral from the river, where, overtopping the lofty 
 warehoiises that crowd upon its base, it looks like a palace of the Caesars rising fi-om a 
 dunghill. The contrast, however, in a picturesque point of view, is in favour of the cathe- 
 dral, and serves to enhance its beauties, while it conceals one of its greatest defects, the 
 double tier of stories without, to only one story within. The lower of these stories is of the 
 Corinthian orderj after that of the Pantheon at Rome, and the upper of the composite, in 
 which the architect has used his own invention in its composition, without deviating fi-om 
 ancient rules^of harmony and proportion. 
 
40 LONDON PN THE NINETEENTH CENTUBY. 
 
 In this view of the cathedral, the hefbre-mentioned prqiections in the angles of the inter- 
 section of the transepts and body come beautifuUy into play, as wings to the .elevation of 
 the transept, and correspond haa-moniously with the projections of the consistorial court that 
 adjoins the south-western tower. See plate of the view of St. PauPs Cathedral from the 
 river. The variety of light and shade occasioned by this arrangement of the parts, and the 
 reflection of how necessary these beautiful additions are to the stability of the work, are, 
 when thus considered, doubly pleasing and satisfactory, and raise our opinions of the talent 
 and ingenuityof its eminent architect. 
 
 Of the towers I wiU speak when we consider the western elevation, but in no view does 
 the majestic cupola appear to more advantage than ftom this situation. First, the plain 
 tambour or base of the peristyle rises above the roof, with plain simplicity, and forms a 
 lofty base to its superstructure, .which is sufficiently beautiful at a distance, and absolutely 
 necessary in a nearer point of view to elevate the columns above .the entablature of the mam 
 building. This circular stylobate is crowned by an efficient cornice, which supports a cir- 
 cular peristyle of thirty-two Corinthian columns of singular beauty and originality of style. 
 Eight pairs of these columns are connected by walls which contain staircases, and moreover 
 serve as buttresses and points of support to the cupola and its interior cone which rise above 
 them. The other columns are detached; and the depth of shade produced by the retroces- 
 sion of the interior sloping wall, that forms the back of the portico of the peristyle, forms a 
 contrast of exquisite beauty. 
 
 The columns are somewhat loftier or more slender in their proportions tlian the Vitruvian 
 canons allot to the Corinthian order. The bases are higher than authorities allow, and 
 the capitals are also similarly elongated, and have but one row of leaves round the bell of 
 the capital under the volutes instead of two. Such variations from standard authorities can 
 only be ventured upon by a consummate master of the art, who knows the requisites for 
 producing a satisfactory effect. The lofty situation of these columns diminish the apparent 
 number of their modules in height, by the angle in which they are mostly seen, and columns 
 of a more just proportion would have appeared shortened of their fair proportions at such an 
 height. So also of the capitals, as to height, and as to the single row of water leaves in- 
 stead of the two rows of raffled leaves as the. order requires, the variation is an improvement 
 in effect, at the distance from which they are mostly viewed. A true Corinthian, at that 
 height would not have produced half so fine an effect as this artist-like composition of 
 Wren. 
 
 The entablature of this majestic peristyle is unbroken, and encii-cles it, as the belt of 
 Saturn does its mighty planet in the heavens. Above this rises a necessaiy, and therefore 
 beautiful, balustrade. Not such a one as tlie great architect complained of having forced 
 upon his work, like an edging of Mechlin lace, upon the broad cloth habit of an English 
 yeoman ; but as a necessaiy appendage and protection to the cii-cular ten-ace walk behind 
 it : in fact it is a gallery. 
 
 Over and within this gallery rises a circular attic, divided by as many pilasters as tliere 
 are columns in the peristyle below. Between them are square sunk panels, some of which 
 
Dra-wn bj Tho H oteplierd 
 
 Fi.i. WESTMIHSTIBIR, AlBBKTs AHB ST. 5)!IAia(&AIS.iST'S CHX'IiCE. 
 
 Drawn tjTho.H Shepherd 
 
 UIETIMG EOWSffi, WBITKHAMi. 
 
 Jones k C. lemple of the MiiMS, Finsbur;y Squire London, 1829 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 41 
 
 have perforated angles for light and ah-, and from the cornice of this supplementary order 
 tlie outer and upper cupola arises of a semi-elliptic form, beautifully ribbed and fluted in 
 massive lead. Alternately the ribs are shortened and give light to the windows within, in a 
 manner much more beautiful, scientific, and effective than the lantern windows that dis- 
 figure its majestic prototype in modem Rome. 
 
 The summit of the cupola is sunnounted by a circular iron gallery, called by the vergers 
 and showmen of the cathedral " the golden," though it does not appear that it was ever gilt. 
 Inside of this is elevated the lofty lantern, which is composed of a stylobate, a kind of quad- 
 rangular temple of the Corinthian order, which is surmounted by a well-proportioned attic, 
 covered by a quadrangular cupola and a magnificent ball and cross, which from having 
 been recently renewed by Mr. Cockerell, the present architectiual surveyor of the cathedral, 
 and splendidly gilt, shines in the evening sun like a meteor in the distant sky. 
 
 The coarsely carved figures of the apostles, which crown the pediment and acroteria of the 
 south transept, are softened by the distance from which they are here seen into more beauty 
 than their clumsy hevring, for it can scarcely be called carving, would seem to warrant. 
 They may indeed be eminently called architectural statues, for they are built and con- 
 structed with masonic skill. 
 
 Westminster Abbey, 
 
 the collegiate church of St. Peter, presents a most imposing and splendid specimen of the 
 Gothic style. Sebert, king of the East Saxons, is supposed to have founded it about the 
 year 610, but having been destroyed by the Danes, it was rebuilt by Edward the Confessor, 
 in 1066. Henry III. pulled down the Saxon pile, and in 1245 commenced building the 
 present magnificent structure, which was slowly, but progressively continued by succeeding 
 monarchs. The final completion of this stupendous architectural pile was reserved for Su- 
 Christopher Wren, by whom the two stately towers at the west fi-ont were built. The length 
 of the chvuch, within the walls, is 660 feet ; at the nave it is 72 feet broad, and at the cross, 
 ] 95. The Gothic arches and side aisles are supported by forty-eight pillars of grey marble, 
 each composed of slender clusters covered vwth ornaments. On entering the west door, the 
 whole body of the church presents itself at one view, the pillars dividing the nave from the 
 side aisles being so contrived as not to obstruct the side-openings ; nor is the sight terminated 
 to the east but by the fine painted windows over Edward the Confessor's chapel ; and the 
 pillars terminate towards the east by a sweep, enclosing this chapel in a kind of semi-circle- 
 These pillars, as far as the gates of the choir, are filleted with brass, but all beyond with stone. 
 In conformity to the middle range of pillars, there are others in the wall, which as they rise, 
 spring into semi-arches, and meet in acute angles with their opposites, which, in the roof, are 
 adorned with a variety of carvings. At the bottom of the walls, between the pillars, are 
 shallow niches, arched about eight or ten feet high, wherein the arms of the original bene- 
 factors are depicted ; round these are their titles, &c., but they are mostly concealed by the 
 monuments. On the arches of the pillars are galleries of double columns, fifteen feet wide, 
 covering the side aisles, and enlightened by a middle range of windows, over which is an 
 
42 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 upper range, still larger : these, with the four capital windows facing the north, east, south, 
 and west, enlighten the whole fabric in an admirable manner. The choir is a late improve- 
 ment, and made more commodious for the celebration of divine worship, performed eviery 
 day at ten in the morning, and at three in the afternoon. Bound the choir are eleven chapels. 
 This sti-ucture contains a great number of monuments of kings, statesmen, heroes, poets, 
 and persons distinguished by fortune, genius, learning, and science. Nothing, indeed, can 
 be more solemn than a solitary walk in this mansion of the illustrious dead ; nor can any 
 thing be more just and beautiful than Addison's reflections on this subject in the Spectator, 
 see page 37, Jones's Edition. 
 
 The Banqueting-House, Whitehall. 
 
 This building, considered the most correct and elegant in England, was begun in 1619, 
 firom a design by Inigo Jones. It is only a small part of the plan of a vast palace, intended 
 to be worthy the residence of the British monarchs, but left incomplete, on account of the 
 unhappy times that followed. The ceiling of this noble room was painted by Rubens, who 
 had ^3000 for his work. The subject is the apotheosis of James I. It forms nine compart- 
 ments. The middle one represents our pacific monarch on his earthly throne, turning with 
 horror from Mars and other discordant deities, and giving himself up. as it were, to the 
 amiable goddess he had always adored, and to her attendants, Commerce and the Fine Arts. 
 A few years ago this ceiling underwent a repair by the masterly hand of Cipriani. The 
 Banqueting-House has long been converted into a chapel; and George I. granted a 
 salary of £30 a year to twelve clergymen (six from Oxford, and six from Cambridge), who 
 officiate a month each. 
 
 In the court behind the Banqueting-House is a statue, in brass, of James II., by Grinlin 
 Gibbons. It is a fine performance, possessing grace and dignity in a superior degree. In 
 front of the Banqueting-House, on a scafibld, Charles I. was beheaded, on the 30th of 
 January, 1648 — 9. His ma.iesty passed from the Banqueting-House to tlie scaffold through 
 one of the v(indows. 
 
 In Whitehall Chapel have been deposited the eagles, coloiurs, and other trophies obtained 
 from the French during the late revolutionary war. This took place, with gi-eat ceremony 
 on the 18th of May, 1811 ; and in January, 1816, the eagles taken at the battle of Waterloo 
 were placed here. 
 
 Somerset House. 
 
 The original extensive palace of Somerset House, built about tlie year 1549, by Edward 
 Seymour, duke of Somerset, uncle to Edwai'd VI., and protector of England, formeriy stood 
 on this site. It was built in a style of architecture composed of the Grecian and tlie Gothic : 
 but in 1775 the whole of the structure was demolished, in consequence of an act of parlia- 
 ment; and the present extensive edifice, from a design of Sir William Chambers, has been 
 erected, for the accommodation of all the public offices— those of the Treasury, the 
 Secretary of SUte, the Admiralty, the War, and the Excise, excepted. The front of 
 
S®MEB.SI1T EKDB^IE^ STHAHBo 
 
 Drawn. Iry Tlio.ii.Sliepherd. 
 Tl 12. 
 
 EafraTefl.'by "W. TombLcsm 
 
 < EAST rajBIA Br®¥§JS5 ILMApEHHASiIL, STRIEET. 
 
 JonSs.A: C° TenqiLe of tte Muses. FinsburySqiLaTc, Lmdon, Oct 31,18^9 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 43 
 
 this edifice, next to the Sti-and, consists of a rustic basement, suppol^ng a range of columns 
 in the Corinthian order, crowned in the centre with an attic story, and adorned at the ex- 
 tremities with a balustrade. The grand entrance, by three lofty arches, opens to a spacious 
 and elegant vestibule, ornamented with Doric columns. 
 
 The southern front, towards the Thanles, is erected on a terrace fifty-three feet wide ; and 
 the building, when finished, will extend about 1100 feet. The terrace is supported on a 
 rustic basement, erected upon an arcade, consisting of thirty-two arches, each twelve feet 
 wide, and twenty-four high. The grand central arch is intended for the reception of the 
 royal barges. The length of this arcade is relieved by projections, ornamented by rusticated 
 Ionic columns ; and the effect of the whole of the terrace, viewed from the water, is very 
 noble. The public are excluded fi-om this terrace ; but it would form one of the most de- 
 lightful promenades in the world, as it commands a view of a very beautiful part of the 
 river, with Blackfriars, Waterloo, and AVestminster bridges. In the court of this structure 
 is a statue of the present king, and at his feet is the figure of the river Thames pouring wealth 
 and plenty fi:om a cornucopia. The rooms of the Royal Society, the Antiquarian Society, 
 and the Royal Academy, occupy a part of the main building towards the Strand. The en- 
 trance to these rooms is by the vestibule. Over the door of the Royal and Antiquarian Societies 
 is the bust of Sir Isaac Newton ; and over that of the Royal Academy is the bust of Michael 
 Angelo Buonarotti. Somerset Place also contains the following public offices : — the Auditor 
 of Imprests, Clerk of the Estreats, Duchy Courts of Lancaster and Cornwall, Hackney 
 Coach, Hawkers and Pedlars, Horse Duty, Lord Treasurer's, Remembrancer's, Lottery, 
 Navy, Navy Pay, Pipe and Comptroller of the Pipe, Salt, Sick and Hurt, Signet, Stage-coach 
 Duty, Stamp, Surveyor of Crown Lands, Tax, Victualling, and Wine Licence. 
 
 The East India House, 
 
 in Leadenhall Street, is distinguished by a stately entrance, beneath a portico of six fluted 
 Ionic columns, supporting a frieze, and two wings surmounted by a balustrade. The 
 tympanum in the centre contains several figures, the principal of them representing his 
 Majesty George the Third, leaning on his sword in his left hand, and extending the shield of 
 protection over Britannia, who embraces Liberty. On one side Mercury, attended by Navi- 
 gation, and followed by tritons and sea-horses, as emblems of commerce, introduces Asia to 
 Britannia, before whom she spreads her productions. Order, accompanied by Religion and 
 Justice, appears on the other side, and behind them the city bai-ge, with other attributes of 
 the metropolis ; near which are Integrity and Industry. In the western angle is a represen- 
 tation of the Thames, and in the eastern, that of the Ganges. Above the pediment is a fine 
 •statue of Britannia, with a spear in her left hand, and the cap of Libei-ty upon it: Asia sits 
 upon a camel in the east comer, and Europe upon a horse in the west. 
 
 The interior of this vast edifice, which extends neai'ly the length of Lime Street contains 
 the grand court room, the principal ornament of which is the fine design, in bas-relief of 
 Britannia seated on a globe, on a rock by the sea-shore, looking towards the east; her right 
 hand leaning on a union shield, her Mt holding a tiident, and her head decorated by a 
 naval crown. Behind her are two boys, one leaning on a cornucopia, the other diverting him- 
 
44 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 self among flowing riches. Female figures, emblematic of India, Asia, and AMca, pre- 
 senting the diflferent productions of their climes: Thames, with his head crowned with 
 rushes fills up the groupe. The pictures in this room are Fort St. George, Bombay, St. 
 Helena, Cape of Good Hope, Fort William, and Tellicherry.— Committee room. An excel- 
 lent painting of General Lawrence. — Old sale room. Marble statues of Lord Clive, Sir 
 George Pococke, and Major-General Lawrence, in Roman habits, dated 1764 ; Sir Eyre 
 Coote, in regimentals. — Committee of correspondence room. Portraits of Marquiss Com- 
 wallis, Warren Hastings, Esq., the famous Nabob of Arcot, and another Nabob; Views by 
 Ward, of various specimens of Indian architecture, vine of Trichinopoly, Viri. Malli rock, 
 Bramins' bath at Chillimbrum, east view of Madura, Tippy Colum, Tanks, and the Mauso- 
 leum of the Seer Shaw, Choultry of Seringham, south entrance of the pagoda at that place, 
 and various views of Choultries. — New sale room contains several paintings illustrative of 
 India, and other commercial attributes. — Library. A very considerable collection of in- 
 teresting and curious Indian literature. In circular recesses, at the east end of this Library, 
 are busts of Warren Hastings, and Mr. Orme, the historian. Every book known to have 
 been published in any language whatever, relative to the history, laws, or jurisprudence of 
 Asia is to be found here, besides an unparalleled collection of manuscripts in all oriental 
 languages, and among them Tippoo Saib's copy of the Koran. Here are also several volumes 
 of Indian plants, and other representations of the arts, manners, and costume of the Orientals, 
 besides the printed books of the Chinese.— The Museum contains the Babylonians' inscrip- 
 tions, written in what is called the nail-headed character, upon bricks supposed to have been 
 the facings of a wall, strongly cemented together by bitumen. A fi-agment of jasper, up- 
 wards of two feet in length,is also to be seen here, entirely covered with inscribed characters. 
 Here are likewise the trophies and the mantle of Tippoo Saib : and, in fact, such a diversity 
 of rare and curious articles, as to render this Museum inferior to none in the display of 
 oriental rarities. The whole is to be seen for a small gratuity to some of the ofiicers, court 
 days, &c., excepted. 
 
 St. James's Palace 
 
 was originally an hospital founded by some devout citizens of London, before the Conquest, 
 and, after being augmented, was rebuilt in the reign of Henry III. When this hospital was 
 surrendered, with many others, during the rapacious reign of Henry VIII., its revenues 
 amounted to £100 per annum. Henry demolished most of the old fabric, and on its site 
 founded the present palace, called by Stow, " a goodly manor." Though the exterior of 
 St. James's is inconsiderable, it certainly is not mean. It is a brick building, and the en- 
 trance to the rooms of state is by a staircase that opens into the principal court next to Pall 
 Mall; at the top of this are two guard rooms, one on the left, called the queen's, and the 
 other the king's guard room. Immediately beyond the latter, is the Presence Chamber, now 
 used only as a passage to the principal rooms. The Presence Chamber opens into the centre 
 room, called the Privy Chamber, -where there is a canopy, under which his, majesty used to 
 receive private addresses. On the right are two drawing-rooms, one witliin the other, and 
 at the upper end of the further one, a throne with its canopy ; here tlie king receives cor- 
 
ST aFAMIES'S PAI.AEK, FAI^IL MAILI1..7 
 
 TiraimL "by^lio S.S^Jspierd 
 
 Tsrow pullKd down 
 . " reddle of the Hufiea. FiiisburjSquaTe.Londcm, Nov 14,1829 
 
m]^STlI^IE KKW^EITM, ^miEAT B.US^]EIL STmElET. 
 
 ■i.i ■bT'W:'Hfflisha.ll' 
 
 m AIL, 11:4, 
 
 JonoB fcC? 'L'cnifle of'tlio Muses. Finsbuiy Sq^uacc Londoa .l.ui I, !)?*(' 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, 45 
 
 poration addresses : the nearer room is a kind of anti-chamber, where the nobility are permitted 
 to sit down, whilst their majesties are present in the forther room, there being stools and sofas 
 for that purpose. In the grand drawing-room is a large magnificent chandelier of ^It silver, 
 and in the grand levee-room, a very noble bed, with fomiture of crimson velvet, manufac- 
 tured in Spitalfields. Among the pictures in this palace are those of JeiFery Hudson the dwarf, 
 of Henry Lord Darnly, consort of Mary,Queen of Scots, and father ofJamesI.,hishand resting 
 on his brother, Charles Stuart, earl of Lenox, in a black gown; the famous picture of Mabuse,- 
 of Adam and Eve, with the curious anachronisms of navels, a fountain richly carved, &c. 
 
 On the west side of the court-yard is the Chapel Royal, a plain contracted room, supposed 
 to have been the same used as when belonging to the hospital ; the ceiling is divided into 
 small painted squares. The service is performed here in the same manner as at cathedrals ; 
 its establishment is a dean (usually the bishop of London), a lord-almoner, a sub-dean, and 
 forty- eight chaplains, who preach in their turns before the Royal family. There are also 
 twelve gentlemen of the chapel, two organists, ten choristers, a sergeant, a yeoman,' a 
 gi-oom of the vestry, &c. 
 
 The other parts of this palace are very irregular in their form, consisting of several courts. 
 Some of these have been appropriated to the use of the branches of theRoyaJ family; others 
 are occupied by the king's servants, or granted as a benefit to their occupiers. 
 
 The Old White Hart Tavern, Bishopsgate Street. 
 
 This ancient tavern, now pulled down, bore the date of 1480 upon its fi-ont; but it is by 
 no means probable that this was the original building, although the extreme length of win- 
 dows, and other appearances about it, were indications of its being very ancient. There is 
 great probability of its having been the hosteUary, or inn, belonging to the Old Priory of 
 Bethlem, for the entertainment of strangers, as was customary in those times. The Old 
 Priory, which was on the east, or Bishopsgate Street side of Moorfields, was given to the 
 citizens of London, for the use of lunatics, by Henry VIII. 
 
 The British Museum ' 
 
 is in Great Russell Street, and was built on a French model, by the first duke of Montague, 
 being originally called Montague House. This building has, for many years past, been 
 appropriated to the reception of The British Museum. The entrance to the vestibule, 
 on the west side, is under tall arches, and leads to the various rooms for studying and copy- 
 ing. The staircase and ceilings were painted by Baptiste, Rousseau and La Fosse; those 
 of the former representing Caesar and his military retinue, attended by chiefs of provinces 
 which he had conquered. In a compaitment are the feasts and sacrifices of Bacchus ; in 
 another, the rivers Nile and Tiber are emblematically represented. The ceiling exhibits 
 the story of Phaeton, who, with all the ardour of youth, is driving the sun's chariot, accom- 
 panied by the hours, represented as females. In the first room, this story is completed 
 on the ceiling. Over the north door, leading to the saloon, is a fine portrait of Sir William 
 
 W 
 
46 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Hamilton, by Six- Joshua Reynolds. The adjoining room, proceeding northward, was 
 the reading-room till the winter of 1803, when, not being deemed sufficiently light^ 
 the appendages for study and research were transferred to the next room north, which is 
 surrounded by shelves of books, secured by wire ; it has a vaulted ceiling, a handsome 
 cornice, and a large marble chimney-piece, four windows, and several portraits on the 
 walls. The first room on the first floor is ornamented with real fluted composite pillars, in 
 pairs, which have an elegant carved entablature and festoons between the capitals. Over the 
 doors are medallions, surrounded by spliinxes and cherubim dropping flowers. The ceiling is 
 semi-oval, and richly painted, with Jupiter hurling his lightning at Phaeton. In the room 
 for the Cottonian and king's manuscripts is an original copy of Magna Charta, enclosed 
 in a glass firame, with a firagment of the seal, totally defaced. In consequence of the paleness , 
 of the ink, and the increasing illegibility of the manuscript, the trustees permitted Mr. J. 
 Pine to engrave a fac simile of the perfect charter, surrounded by the arms of the twenty-five 
 barons who witnessed the king's act. 
 
 It is impossible to give a detail of the various articles with which this museum is so amply 
 supplied. Among those in the hall are to be found enormous skulls and tusks of elephants, 
 a prodigious ram, warlike trophies taken from the French army in Egypt, a Roman tomb, 
 about three feet long and eighteen inches deep, a curious wooden chest, an Indian canoe, 
 many Roman pigs of lead with inscriptions, a fine specimen of petrified wood, a model (in 
 wood) of Blackfriar's Bridge, and another of an Indian carriage. Against the side of the 
 staircase are many Grecian and Roman inscriptions, and upon the stairs, antique fountains, 
 a model of a first rate man-of-war ready to launch, her tender, a large marble foot, &c. Sir- 
 WiUiam Hamilton's collection is rich in ancient armour, jars, vessels of stone and wood, 
 urns, asbestos, &c., &c. In the second room are some curious mummies, pictiures, medsd- 
 lions, specimens of cut paper, vases of flowers, &c., &c. 
 
 The Otaheite and South Sea rooms abound in curiosities, natural and artificial, fi-om those 
 parts of the world. Other rooms contain cases of minerals, fossils, shells, petrifactions, 
 reptiles, &c. ; the spoils of the Egyptian campaign ; baths, cofl&ns, firagments of colmnns, 
 and Roman statuary. But a volume would not contain a description of every article, of cu- 
 riosity, utility, and interest, in this vast collection, which has lately received the addition of 
 the Elgin marbles. 
 
 In the bird-room are some cmious nests ; and among the birds, the Egyptian Ibis, and 
 several varieties of the bird of Paradise, the American humming-bird, &c. 
 
 In the great hall, the most cmious articles are the Egyptian tombs, &c., covered with 
 hieroglyphics. 
 
 Formerly, persons wishing to view this national depository of curiosities, were required to 
 leave their names, and attend at a fixed hour on some other day appointed, when they were 
 hm-ried through the rooms without respect to then- taste, object, or curiosity ; but now, any 
 decenfly dressed person may, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday (Christmas, Easter, 
 and Whitsun weeks, with the months of August and September excepted), between tlie hours 
 often and four, obtain fi:ee admission, without fee or delay, on simply writing his or her 
 name and address in a book, and may pass away as many hours as is agreeable, in viewing 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 47 
 
 and studying this immense and valuable collection. An elegant synopsis of the contents 
 of the entire museum, consisting of 150 pages, is sold at the door at two shillings, for those 
 who may choose to purchase, and this serves as a guide to the inspection of every thing 
 there. 
 
 The Slonian and Cottonian collections deposited there, have often been described ; but 
 the Museum has, within these few years, been enriched by various novelties of matchless 
 interest, and, above all, by the Egyptian antiquities acquired by the capitulation of 
 Alexandria, 1801 ; among which is the famous rosetta stone, containing the triple inscrip- 
 tion, the supposed sarcophagus of Alexander, and many fragments of sculpture, coeval with 
 the earliest periods of Egyptian history. Here are also arranged, with the most elegant 
 taste, the large collection of Greek and Roman statues, and other sculptured marbles, 
 formed by the late Charles Townley, Esq., and pmchased by parliament for ^£20,000 ; in 
 number, 313. Another recent addition is the splendid and perfect collection of minerals 
 formed by the late Charles Greville, purchased by parliament for £13,727 : the whole ai-e 
 disposed in cabinets, containing 550 drawers, while specimens of the drawers are exhibited 
 in glazed compartments over them. Besides these natural objects, the literary additions 
 made within these few years are very considerable: thus the Hargrave library, of valuable 
 law books, which cost £4925 ; the Landsdowne MSS. ; Halhed's Persian and Sanscrit 
 MSS ; 500 volumes of ciuious tracts, collected by the late Dr. Lettsom ; Tyssen's Saxon 
 coins ; eighty-four volumes of scarce classics, belonging to Dr. Bentley, with Robert's series 
 of the coins of the realm, from the Conquest to the present time ; and for which many of 
 the best patrons of literature, nearly connected with this national establishment, have con- 
 siderable claims upon the gratitude of the country. 
 
 For the Elgin marbles, or the AtJienian sculptures, two spacious rooms were bmlt, in 
 1816, on the ground floor, adjoining the Townley and Egyptian galleries. The smaller 
 room contains the spirited sculptures recently dug up at Phygalia, together with correct casts 
 of statuary, the originals of which stiU adorn Athens. On the ground floor of the other 
 room are displayed the Athenian marbles or sculptures, consisting of several statues, as the 
 TTieseus, &c., &c. : at the ^height of six feet from the floor, the Friezes ; and a few feet 
 higher, the Metopes : many of these, being the work of Phidias, are exceedingly interesting. 
 United to the Townley and other collections, the suite of rooms here exhibit the finest dis- 
 play of the art of sculpture in the world. The tiiistees of the Museum recently purchased 
 colonel Montague's complete collection of Zoology, as formed by him in Devonshire, and 
 which has been arranged and opened to public inspection. A splendid room has lately 
 been erected for the reception of the valuable collection of books, presented by his late 
 majesty, George IV. 
 
 Carpentkrs' Hall, 
 
 at present occupied by Messrs. Kent, Luck, & Co., the most extensive concern of any in 
 the Metropolis in the carpet trade, stands on the south side of London Wall. The entrance 
 to the premises is under a large arch, with four Corinthian pillars at the sides ; and over the 
 
48 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 cenfre is a bust of Inigo Jones, and the arms of the Company. Within a pleasant area, in- 
 tersected by gravel walks and grass-plots, is the part used as the Hall, consisting of a Doric 
 basement, and porticoes at each end, supporting a rustic story, ornamented with cornices 
 and pediments. The original roof was of oak, which has long given place to a stuccoed 
 ceiling, handsomely decorated. 
 
 The Tower of London 
 
 stands in a spacious but very irregular area on the banks of the river, to the east of Tower- 
 street- ward. It is inclosed by a high brick wall, having battlements above, and port-holes 
 at the angles below, for the admission of cannon. This wall is surroiinded by a broad 
 deep ditch; and what is called Tower-hill, without this ditch, is indeed a rude uneven 
 ground of different heights, which does not appear to have been ever formed to any re- 
 gular level, since, thie earth was injudiciously laid round at the first digging of the ditch. 
 Tower-hill is bounded by buildings all around, and some good houses are to be found on the 
 north and west sides. 
 
 The Tower at first consisted of no more than what is at present called the White Tower ; 
 which, on doubtful authority, has been said to have been built by Julius Caesar ; though 
 other authorities assert it to have been marked out, and a part of it first erected, by William 
 the Conqueror in the year 1076, with a view to secure himself and followers a safe retreat, 
 in case the English should ever have recourse to arms to recover their liberties. That this 
 was the builder's design, evidently appears firom its situation on the east side of London, and 
 its communication vsdth the river, whence it might be supplied with men, provisions and 
 military stores, and it still seems a place rather calculated for defence than ofience. After the 
 deatli of the Conqueror in 1087, his son WiUiam Rufus in 1098 surrounded it with walls and 
 a broad and deep ditch, which was in some places 120 feet wide; several of the succeeding 
 princes added additional works, and Edward III. built the church. Since the restoration, it 
 has been thoroughly repaired: in 1663 the ditch was scoured; all tlie wharfing about it was 
 rebuilt with brick and stone, and sluices made for letting in and retaining the Thames water 
 as occasion may require; the walls of the White Tower have been repaired; and a great 
 number of additional buildings have been added. At present, beside the Wliite Tower, are 
 the ofiices of ordnance, of the Mint, of the keepers of the records, the jewel ofiice, the 
 Spanish armoury, the horse armoury, the new or small armomy, baiTacks for the soldiers, 
 handsome houses for the chief ofiicers residing in the Tower, and other persons : so that tlie 
 Tower now seems rather a town than a fortress. New baiTacks having been erected on 
 the Tower wharf, the ditch was in the year 1758 railed round to prevent for the future 
 all those melancholy accidents which had fi-equently happened to people passing over 
 Tower-hill in the dark. 
 
 TheTower is in the best situation that could have been chosen for aforti-ess,itlyingonly800 
 yards to the eastward of London bridge ; and consequently near enough to cover this opulent 
 city from invasion by water. It is to the north of the river Thames, from which it is pailed 
 by a convenient wharf and narrow ditch, over which is a drawbridge, for the readier taking 
 
Dra^m "by Tlio H. Sbapherd. 
 Fl 116 
 
 THE TOWEffi.- ©F E,OE5©®W. IFKOM T^WEffi MSILIL. 
 
 DTtCTm by IJia H, biieplLercL 
 
 ri in 
 
 PREROGATIVE WILL OmCE, DOCTOR'S COMMONS. 
 
 BEN JOIOTSON'S HEAD, DEVEREUX, COURT, STRAND. 
 
 Jones & C? Temple of the Moses, I'iBsbwy Square; LOTidoii,183]. 
 
]1®KSIE ©UAlRBSs, FAB.1LIAMIEHT STmEET. 
 
 % 
 
 I __. j^ ■■•"■J}? 
 
 Drawn bj ThcH Sheplfcci. 
 3P 
 
 KngVavcS 'b^^ JTmrie. 
 
 THE MirWTs T<ISWIKli^ 1BII[LIU» 
 
 Jones. & C° ToTu-ple of tlic "Muses .V'uisbury Stpwo-e .Loccloii , Keb 20. 1630. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUEY. 49 
 
 in or sending out ammunition and naval or military stores. Upon this wharf is a line of 
 about sixty pieces of iron cannon, which are fired upon public occasions. 
 
 The wharf is inclosed from Tower-hill at each end, by gates opened every morning for the 
 convenience of a free intercourse between the respective inhabitants of the tower, the city, 
 and its suburbs. Under this wharf is a water gate through the Tower-wall, commonly 
 called Traitor's Gate, by which it had been customary, in former and more arbitrary times, 
 to convey state prisoners privately by water, to and from the Tower: but the lords com- 
 mitted to the Tower for the last rebellion were publicly admitted at the main entrance. 
 Over this water-gate is a regular building terminated at each end by a round tower, on 
 which are embrasures for cannon, but at present none are mounted there. In this building 
 ai-e an infirmary, a mill, and the water-works that supply the Tower with water. 
 
 The principal entrance into the Tower is by three gates to the west, one within the other. 
 The first of these opens to a coiut, on the right hand of which is the lion's tower, where a 
 number of curious wild animals are kept. The second gate opens to a stone bridge buUt 
 over the ditch; at the inner end of which is the third gate, much stronger than the two 
 former; having a portcullis to let down upon occasion, and being guarded not only by 
 soldiers, but by the warders of the Tower. Under this gate, on the light hand, is the 
 drawbridge for foot passengers to and from the Tower wharf. 
 
 The Horse Guards. 
 
 A little to the north of the Treasui^, and opposite to the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, 
 is the grand entrance into St. James's-park, through the building called the Horse-guards. 
 This building consists of a centre and two wings, and has an air of solidity perfectly 
 agreeable to the use for which it was constructed. It receives its name from the horse- 
 guards, who, while the king is at St. James's, are here on duty, two at a time being con- 
 stantly mounted and completely armed, under two handsome porches detached from the 
 building toward the street, and erected to shelter them from the weather. This structure is 
 equally calculated for the use of the foot as well as the horse on duty. 
 
 In the centre of this edifice is an arched passage into St. James's-park, and the building 
 over this has a pediment, in which are the king's arms in bass relief. But this arch, as it is 
 the passage of his majesty to and from the house of Peers, should have been more lofty 
 and noble. At each extreme of this centre is a pavilion. The middle face of the cupola 
 presents a dial; and the aperture in the lower part of this, and on the several stages of the 
 other, are well calculated to break the plainness, without weakening the building, either in 
 reality or appearance. The vdngs are plainer than the centre. They each consist of a fore 
 front projecting a little, with ornamented windows in the principal story, and a plain one in 
 the sides. Each has its pediment, vdth a circular window in the centre; and the whole has 
 a proper air of strength and plainness. 
 
 O 
 
50 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 The Mint, Tower Hill, 
 
 is from a design of Mr. Smirke, jun., for the various purposes of coinage, and is upon an 
 extensive plan, as it contains every department necessary for the diiferent operations in 
 coining, and residences for the principal officers. The huilding is composed of a long stone 
 front, consisting of three stories, surmounted hy a handsome balustrade. The wings are de- 
 corated with pilasters ; the centre with demi-columns, and a pediment ornamented with the 
 arms of the United Kingdom. Over the porch is a gallery, balustrades, &c., of the Doric 
 order. A fire which broke out here in the summer of 1815 did considerable damage in the 
 interior, but happily did not injure the appearance of this beautiful edifice. 
 
 On this spot formerly stood East Minster, or the abbey of St. Mary of the Graces, founded 
 by Edward the III., in 1349, in consequence of a flight at sea, on his return from France, 
 when he vowed if he got safe on shore he would found a monastery to the honour of God 
 and the Lady of Grace. This foundation, had the intention been effected, was to rival 
 Westminster, but it did not succeed, although continued till the dissolution by Henry VIII. 
 Previously to the building of the New Mint, the old Victualling office here had been con- 
 verted into warehouses for tobacco. 
 
 The King's Mews, Charing Cross. 
 
 This place is of great antiquity, and is thus denominated from the word mew, a term used 
 among falconers, signifying to moult or cast feathers. It was used for the accommodation 
 of the king's falconers and hawks, so early as the year 1377; but the king's stables at 
 Lomesbury (now called Bloomsbury) being destroyed by fire in the year 1537, King Henry 
 VIII. caused the hawks to be removed, and the mews enlarged and fitted up for the reception 
 of his Majesty's horses; and the royal stables have till lately been since kept in this place. 
 
 The old building being greatly decayed, the north side was erected in the present 
 magnificent manner in the year 1732. This side, of the Mews is exceedingly noble, 
 particularly the centre, which is enriched with coliunns of the Doric order, and a pediment. 
 The smaller pediments and rustic arches under the cupolas or lanterns, are properly subor- 
 dinate to the principle one, but set so close to the balustrade, that its intention as a gallery is 
 destroyed. — ^A fine view is presented, both of this building and of St. Martin's Church, by 
 the spacious new opening from Pall Mall east. The buildings of the Mews, originally used 
 as stables, are now appropriated to the exhibition of usefiil mechanical arts, and 
 manufactures. 
 
 The Admiralty, Parliament Street. 
 
 A little to the south of Charing-cross, on the west side of the street leading thence to 
 Westminster-abbey, and nearly opposite to Scotland-yard, is situated the Admiralty-office, a 
 massy building of brick and stone. It has two deep wings, and is entered by a lofty por- 
 
H^enm "by Tiio K SliL-plu£r± 
 
 n 68. 
 
 Eu^aycd tt^ J. Xm^c 
 
 Drawn tjy Tho. H.Shephcra 
 
 n. 69. 
 
 Enrfraved !)_)• J Tingle 
 
 TWB. ABMEMAIdTT, FAMILIIAMKMX ^TREIET. 
 
 l^ial£_ar_^^Jtoses.En3bTip-y ■Scmar.e,LQn.d.cm.,183Q'. 
 
Drawn liy Til" S Shipleri 
 n.S7. 
 
 ^svaiVyESiAar. ■ 
 
 SMITMFIEIalD) MAIRIKET, Fffi.OM THE BAIRffi.S. 
 
 n.ss. 
 
 'ttv«a\v t 'Barber 
 
 IfirUJrHC&KRFaRID) MAIRM;F,ir, "ST 
 
 Jono^* C? Tomplo or Uio Muses, Finaburji SquaTo.XonBoa.'Ma)' il,!. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 51 
 
 tico, supported by four very tall stone columns, with Ionic capitals, to which there is an 
 ascent by a few steps; but this portico, which was intended as an ornament to the building, 
 rather disgusts than pleases, in consequence of the immoderate height of the columns. It is 
 said that the architect who built this portico had made the shafts of a just length, when it 
 was observed that the pediment intemipted the light of some of the apartments, in conse- 
 quence of which he was compelled to violate every nile of architectural proportion, and carry 
 his columns to the roof of the building. Happily, however, this clumsy pile is concealed 
 from view by a very handsome screen, built by Messrs. Adams, in the centre of which is an 
 arched gateway, over which runs a balustrade. On each side of the gate is a niche, sur- 
 mounted by a pedestal, on which is the figure of a winged sea-horse. In front of the screen 
 is a colonnade of the Doric order, and ait each exti-emity are three niches, above which iare 
 triangular pediments; in one of these pediments is a basso-relievo of the prow of a Roman 
 galley, and in the other the bow of a British three-dected man of war. 
 
 Besides a laall and other commodious apartments for transacting business, in the main 
 building, the vrangs are formed into six spacious houses, and are adapted for the residence of 
 the lords commissioners of the admiralty. 
 
 This office was originally held in the large house at the south end of Duke-street, West- 
 minster, which overlooks St. James's Park; but in the reign of King William it was re- 
 moved to WalUngford House, on the same spot as the present building. 
 
 Smithfield, 
 
 as it is generally called, or West Smithfield as it is sometimes termed to distinguish it from 
 East Smithfield on Little Tower Hill, is the greatest market for black cattle, sheep, and 
 horses in Em-ope ; it was celebrated as a horse market by Fitz Stephen, towards the close 
 of the twelfth century. It is also a market for hay and straw. The name is thought to be 
 derived from its being a smooth or level field ; but this is mere conjecture. Anciently it was 
 much larger than it now appears, its area having been greaHy contracted by the surrounding 
 buildings : the whole west side extended as far as the sheep market does at present, and 
 was called the Elms, from the number of those trees that grew there. This appears to have 
 been the place of execution for offenders in the year 1219. Henry II. granted to the 
 priory of St. Bartholomew the privilege of a fair to be kept annually at Bartholomew tide, 
 on the eve, the day, and the morrow, to which the clothiers of England and the drapers of 
 London repaired, and had their booths and standings in the church-yard within the priory, 
 which was separated from Smithfield only by walls and gates. The gates were locked ev&ry 
 night, and watched, for the safety of the goods deposited there ; and the narrow street or 
 lane, afterwards built where the cloth was sold, stiU retains the name of Cloth Fair. This 
 fair, which was at first instituted for the conveniency of trade, was at length prolonged to a 
 fortnight, and became of little other use but for idle youth and loose people to resort to : 
 upon which it was again reduced to the original term of three days, and the booths for 
 drolls and plays in the middle of Smithfield, by the falling of which many people had lost 
 their lives, were ordered to be.no longer erected. 
 
52 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 In the days of chivalry, tournaments used to be held in Smithfield before our kings and 
 their courts, of which several instances are upon record; and, during the memorable 
 sti-uggle between gloomy superstition and the common sense of mankind, numbers of sin- 
 cerely pious Christians were here consigned to the flames, by the Romish clergy, for daring 
 to dispute the dogmas of the Catholic church. 
 
 Spacious as Smithfield is, and although recently enlarged, it is now so surrounded with 
 streets, that the keeping a beast market there is highly improper on account of the dangers 
 the neighbouring inhabitants, and indeed those in all parts of the town, are exposed to from 
 the fiury of exasperated oxen. The fellows employed to drive these creatures from the 
 market to the slaughter-houses are much more destitute of rational powers than the harmless 
 animals they treat with a wanton inhumanity that calls for legal restraint ; for, however 
 necessary such employments may be, it is far from being necessary that the animals, by an 
 unhappy necessity devoted to death for our support, should be more injuriously treated than 
 the case requires : a consideration that, if we have not sympathy enough to attend to on the 
 real merits of the case, ought at least to be rectified for pubhc safety. 
 
 When London had a regular wall and gates, this market was without the wall, though 
 near enough to render it convenient, as slaughter houses were situate in and about Butcher- 
 hall Lane, between Newgate and Aldersgate. It is therefore, much to be lamented, that 
 under the great alteration of circumstances, this market is not removed, as contemplated, to 
 some convenient spot about Islington ; where it might be formed into a regular spacious 
 square, surrounded by slaughter-houses and other convenient buildings, so contrived as not 
 to be oflFensive even in appearance. If any material objection occurred to this removal, it 
 may be worth considering whether it is not practicable to erect slaughter-houses in the 
 neighbourhood, somewhere about Chick Lane, or other ruinous parts ; and to stop all the 
 avenues into Smithfield during the market hoiu's, except such as led to the slaughter-houses, 
 or to places built for the reception of cattle, till it was convenient to kill them. 
 
 Beside the market at Islington, above hinted, another might be established somewhere 
 near the borough of Southwark, to prevent the driving of cattle through the metropolis ; and, 
 if these could be cai-ried into execution, Smithfield might be converted into a noble regular 
 squai'e, either for the purpose of trade, or as private dwellings. It is, however, much to 
 be doubted, after all, whether this market, if removed, could be kept detached from Jother 
 buildings ; and that, disagreeable as the neighbourhood to such a place is, let it be placed 
 wherever it may, whether a town would not quickly be collected round it. 
 
 HUNGERFORD MARKET 
 
 is situated between the Strand and the Thames. In this place was anciently a large house 
 and garden belonging to the Hungerfords of Fairleigh in Wiltshire. In the reign of Charles 
 II. Sir Edward pulled down the family mansion, and converted it into several buildings, 
 and among them this market, which fi-om its proximity to the Thames, and tlie convenience 
 of the stairs for gai'deners to land their goods at, was principally designed as a market for 
 
IteawnTiy Tho R Sb-gpha r d. 
 
 PHTSICTAN'S COLLEGE , W.Ml^«^lCK T.ASE. 
 
 E:aft:avHd- tr/ vj .W^'c; 
 
 WBITTINGTONS COLLEGE, COLLEGE HILL 
 
 UrWnVy Tbo.H Sluiplifird. 
 
 ME, HA inn's (E«|i]L]L 
 
 EiatfrECTOd "bj- W -WalliS. 
 
 ;,<&E , B E M H E T'S IBIttlLIL, 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 53 
 
 vegetables ; the plan however failed, and the market never flourished. Here is a good 
 market-house, on the north side of which is a bust of one of the Hungerfords, and over it a 
 French church ; but the market house is turned to little account, and the whole is intended 
 to be removed to make way fra* modem improvements, now become the order of the day. 
 
 The Old College of Physicians, Warwick Lane. 
 
 This is a very noble structure of brick and stone, the entrance to which is through a 
 grand octangular porch, crowned with a dome that finishes in a cone. The inside was 
 designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and is very elegant and well enlightened. The central 
 building, which contained the library and other rooms of state and convenience, was the 
 design of Inigo Jones. The ascent to the door is by a flight of steps, and in the under part 
 is a basement story. 
 
 The whole front is decorated with pilasters of the Ionic and Corinthian orders. In 
 the centre over the door-case was the statue of king Charles II. placed in a niche ; and 
 directly opposite, on the inner front of the octangular porch, that of Sir John Ciitler. The 
 buildings that compose the two sides of the court are uniform, and have the window cases 
 handsomely ornamented. The orders are well executed, and the whole edifice is both 
 beautifiil and commodious. 
 
 The difierent apartments belonging to this college consist of a committee room, a Hbraiy, 
 furnished with books by Sir Theodore Mayem and the marquis of Dorchester, a great hall 
 for the quarterly meetings of the doctors, a theatre for anatomical dissections, a preparing 
 room, with thirteen tables, containing all the muscles in the human body ; and over all 
 there are garrets to dry the herbs for the use of the dispensary. In the haU were the 
 portraits of several of the most eminent of the faculty; among which were those of Sir 
 Theodore Mayem, physician to James I. and Charles I. ; Harvey, who discovered the cir- 
 culation of the blood; Sir Edmund King, the transfiiser of blood from one animal to 
 another; Sydenham, who first introduced the cool regimen in the small-pox; and the 
 celebrated anatomist, Vesalius. The latter was a very good portrait on wood by Calkar. 
 Here were also busts of Hervey, Sydenham, and Mead. 
 
 This society's first college, which was given Ihem by Dr. Linacre, physician to king 
 Henry VIII., was in Knightrider Street. They afterwards removed to a house which they 
 purchsLsed in Amen-comer, where Dr. Harvey built a library and a public hall, which he 
 granted for ever to the college and endowed it with his estate, which he resigned to them in 
 his life-time. Part of this estate is assigned for an annual oration in commemoration of 
 their benefactor, and to provide a good dinner for the society. This building perished in 
 the flames in 1666 ; after which the present edifice was erected on a piece of ground pur- 
 chased by the fellows. 
 
 The faculty having recently removed their coUege to the splendid new building, Pall 
 Mall East (see JoneS Metropolitan Jmprovements, forming a companion volume to this 
 work), the present structure has been purchased and is occupied by Mr. Tyler the brass 
 founder. 
 
54 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Whittington College, College Hill. 
 
 On the east side of College-hill is the parish church of St. Michael Royal, so denominated 
 from its dedication to St. Michael, and its vicinity to the Tower Royal. It is a rectoiy, the 
 patronage of which appears to have heen in the prior and canons of Canterbury as early as 
 the year 1285, when Hugh de Derby was collated thereto. 
 
 The church was rebuilt, and, by licence from Henry IV. in the year 1410, made a college 
 of the Holy Spirit and St. Maiy, by Sir Richard Whittington, four times mayor, for a mas- 
 ter, four fellows, clerks, choristers, &c., contiguous to which was erected an alms-house, de- 
 nominated God's house, or hospital, for the accommodation of thirteen persons, one of whom 
 to be chief, with the appellation of tutor. 
 
 To encoiu'age so laudable an undertaking, the lord mayor and commonalty of London, in 
 the year 1411, granted a spot of ground whereon to erect the intended college and hospital. 
 But, Sir Richard dying before the accomplishment of the work, it was soon after finished by 
 his executors ; who made laws for the good government thereof, by which the master of the 
 college (besides the accustomed rights and profits of the church) was to have an annual 
 salary of ten marks; the chaplains eleven marks each; the first clerk eight marks; the second 
 seven and a half; the choristers each five marks a-year ; the tutor of the alms-house sixteen- 
 pence a week; and each of the brethren fourteen-pence. 
 
 The extensive charity and numerous acts of benevolence of this worthy citizen could not. 
 however, secure an undisturbed repose to his ashes; for in the reign of Edward VI. the in- 
 cumbent of the parish, a wicked and rapacious priest, imagining that Whittington's beautiful 
 monument was a repository of something more valuable than his terrestrial remains, caused 
 it to be broken open ; but, being disappointed of his expected prey, robbed the body of its 
 leaden covering, and re-committed it to the tomb. In the following reign the body was again 
 disinterred, and inclosed in lead, and for the third time deposited in its sepulchi-e, where it re- 
 mained unmolested till the great fire of London involved its resting place in the common 
 ruin. 
 
 While this college remained, the master and wardens of the Mercer's company, who were 
 trustees of it, nominated the rector for the approbation of the monks of Canterbury, being one 
 of the thirteen peculiars belonging to that see. 
 
 The old church was destroyed by the fire in 1666, after which tlie present structiure was 
 erected in its stead, and made parochial, for this and the adjoining parish of St. Martin 
 Vintry, the church of which was not rebuilt. It is a plain, substantial, stone building, en- 
 lightened by a single series of large arched windows, placed so high that the doors open 
 under them. The tower is divided into three stages, and is sun'ounded at top with carved 
 open work, instead of a balustrade : from hence rises a light and elegant turret, adorned with 
 Ionic columns, which ends in a regular diminution, and supports the vane. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 55 
 
 Heralds' College, Bennet's Hill. 
 
 On the east side of Bennet's Hill stands the Herald's College or office. The old building 
 where this office was kept was destroyed by the fire in 1666; and, by the act for rebuilding 
 the city, the present edifice was to have been begun in three years after. The estimate of 
 the expense for building it amounted to £5000, but the corporation, not being able to dis- 
 charge that sum, petitioned his majesty for a commission to receive the subscriptions of the 
 nobility and gentry. This petition was referred to the commissioners for executing the 
 office of earl marshal; and upon their report was granted on the 6th of December, 1672. 
 But the commission directing the money collected to be paid to such persons, and laid out 
 in such a manner, as the earl-marshal should appoint, so disgusted the officers that it caused 
 a coolness in them to promote the subscription ; in consequence of which, though they had 
 reason to hope for large contributions, little more than £500 were raised. What sums were 
 farther necessary were made up out of the general fees and profits of the office, or by the 
 contribution of particular members. 
 
 The north-west corner of this buUding was erected at the sole charge of Sir William 
 Dugdale; and Sii' Henry St. George, Clarencieux, gave the profits of some visitations made 
 by deputies appointed by him for that purpose, amounting to £530. The houses on the 
 east side, and south-east corner, were erected upon a building lease, agreeable to the original 
 plan, by which means the whole was made one uniform quadrangular building, as it now 
 appears. It is a very handsome and well designed edifice; and the hollow arch of the 
 gateway is esteemed a great curiosity. 
 
 The college being finished in the month of November, 1683, the rooms were divided 
 amongst the officers according to their degrees, by mutual agreement, which was afterwards 
 confirmed by the earl-marshal ; and these apartments have been ever since annexed to the 
 respective offices. The insides of the apai'tments were finished at different times by the 
 officers to whom they belonged. 
 
 The front of this building is ornamented with rustic, on which are placed fovu' Ionic 
 pilasters that support an angular pediment. The sides, which are conformable to this, have 
 arched pediments, which are also supported by Ionic pilasters. Within is a large room for 
 keeping the court of honour ; as also a library, with houses and apartments for the king's 
 heralds and pursuivants. 
 
 This corporation consists of thirteen members ; viz. three kings at ai-ms, six heralds at 
 arms, and four pursuivants at aims. They are nominated by the eaii-mai-shal of England 
 as ministers subordinate to him in the execution of their offices, and hold their places by 
 patent. 
 
 Though these offices are of great antiquity, little mention is made of then' titles or 
 names before the time of Edward III. In his reign heraldry was in high esteem, as appears 
 by the patents of the kings of arms which refer to that period. Edward III. created the 
 two, provincials by the titles of Clarencieux and Norroy ; he also instituted Windsor and 
 Chester heralds, and bluemantle pursuivant, besides several others by foreign titles. From 
 
56 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 this time we find the officers of arms employed abroad and at home, both as military and 
 civil officers ; as military officers, with our kings and generals in the army, carrying defi- 
 ances and making traces, or attending at tilts, tommaments, or duels; as civil officers 
 employed in negociations, and attending our ambassadors in foreign courts ; at home, wait- 
 ing on the king at court and parliament, and directing all public ceremonies. 
 
 In the fifth year of the reign of Henry V. arms were regulated, soon after which that 
 prince instituted the office of garter king of arms ; and at a chapter of the kings and 
 heralds, held at the siege of Rouen, in Normandy, on the 5th of January, 1420, they 
 formed themselves into a regular society, with a common seal, receiving garter as their 
 chief. 
 
 The first charter of incorporation was granted by king Richard III., who assigned them a 
 proper office and residence. This charter was afterwards confirmed by Edward VI. and 
 queen Mary, the latter of whom not only incorporated them again, but also granted them 
 the messuage or house called Derby-place, which formerly belonged to the earl of Derby, 
 and which was destroyed by the fire of London. 
 
 The kings at arms are distinguished by the following titles : — Garter, Clarencieux, 
 Norroy. 
 
 The office of garter king of arms was instituted by king Henry V. for the service of the 
 most noble order of the garter ; and for the dignity of that order he was made sovereign 
 within the office of arms, over all the other officers subject to the crown of England, by the 
 name of garter king of arms of England. By the constitution of his office he must be a 
 native of England, and a gentleman bearing arms. To him belongs the correction of arms, 
 and all ensigns of arms usurped or borne unjustly ; and the power of granting arms to 
 deserving persons, and supporters to the nobility and knights of the bath. It is also his 
 office to go next before the sword in solemn processions, no one interposing except the 
 marshal ; to administer the oath to all the officers of aims ; to have a habit like the register 
 of the order, baron's service in the court, and lodgings in Windsor-castle : he bears liis 
 white rod, with a banner of the ensigns of the order thereon, before the sovereign. When 
 any lord enters the parliament chamber, it is his post to assign him his place, according to 
 his dignity and degree ; to carry the ensign of the order to foreign princes, and to do, or 
 procure to be done, what the sovereign shall enjoin relating to the order ; with other duties 
 incident to his office of principal king of arms. 
 
 The other two kings are called provincial kings, who have particulai- provinces assigned 
 them, which together comprise the whole kingdom of England ; that of Clarencieux com- 
 prehending all fi:om the river Trent southward, and that of NoiToy aU fi-om the river Trent 
 northward. 
 
 These kings at arms are distinguished fi-om each other by their respective badges, which 
 they may wear at all times, either in a gold chain or a ribbon, garter's being blue, and the 
 provincial's purple. 
 
 The kings of arms were originally created by the sovereign with great solemnity on some 
 high festival ; but, for a considerable time past, they have been created by the earl-maishal, 
 by virtue of the sovereign's warrant. Wlien one of these officers is created, he takes his 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 57 
 
 oath ; wine is pouied upon his head out of a gilt cup ; his title is pronounced ; and he is 
 invested with a tahard of the royal arms richly embroidered upon velvet ; a collar of SS. 
 with two portcullises of silver gilt ; a gold chain, with a badge of his office ; and the earl- 
 marshal places on his head the crown of a king of arms, which formerly resembled a ducal 
 coronet ; but since the restoration it has been adorned with leaves resembling those of the 
 oak, and circumscribed with these words. Miserere mei Deus secundum magnum 
 MISERICORDIAM TUAM. Garter has also a mantle of crimson satin, as an officer of the 
 order, with a white rod or sceptre, with the sovereign's arms on the top, which he bears in 
 the presence of the sovereign ; and he is sworn in a chapter of the garter, the sovereign 
 investing him with the ensigns of his office. 
 
 The heralds at arms are distinguished by the following titles : — Somerset, Richmond, 
 Lancaster, Windsor, Chester, York. 
 
 These six heralds take place according to seniority. They are created with the same 
 ceremony as the kings, taking the oath of a herald, and are invested with a tabard of the 
 royal arms embroidered upon satin, not so rich as the kings', but better than the pursuivants', 
 and a silver collar of SS. 
 
 The kings and heralds are sworn upon a sword as well as a book, to show that they are 
 military as weU as civil officers. 
 
 The pursuivants are Rouge Dragon, Blue Mantle, Portcullis, Rouge Croix. 
 
 These are also created by the earl-marshal, and when they take their oath of pursuivant 
 are invested vnth a tabard of the royal arms upon damask. It is the duty of the heralds 
 and pursuivants to attend in the public office, one of each class together, in monthly rotation. 
 
 It is the general duty of the kings, heralds, and pursuivants, to attend his majesty at the 
 house of peers, and upon certain festivals at the chapel royal ; to make proclamations ; to 
 marshal the proceedings at all public processions ; to attend the installation of the knights 
 of the garter, &c. 
 
 These heralds are all the king's servants in ordinary ; and therefore, whenever it happens 
 that the earl-marshal is absent, they are sworn into their offices by the lord-chamberlain. 
 
 Their meetings ai-e termed chapters, which they hold once a month, or oftener if necessary, 
 wherein all matters aie determined by a majority of voices of the kings and heralds, each 
 king having two voices. 
 
 These officers, as before observed, have apartments in the college annexed to their 
 respective offices. They have also a public hall, in which the earl-marshal occasionally 
 holds courts of chivalry. Their hbrary contains a large and valuable collection of original 
 records of the pedigrees and arms of families, funeral certificates of the nobility and gentry, 
 public ceremonials, and other branches of heraldry and antiquities. 
 
 The aims of the college and corporation ai'e argent, St. George's cross between four doves 
 azure, one wing open to fly, the other close, with this motto, diligent and secret. 
 Crest, a dove rising on a ducal coronet. Supporters, on either side a lion guardant argent, 
 gorged with a ducal coronet. These arms, crest, and supporters are upon the common seal, 
 thus circumscribed, Sigillum commune Corporationis Officii Armorum. 
 
58 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Haberdasheks' Hall, Maiden Lane. 
 
 This veiy handsome ancient brick buUding, stands on the north side ©f Maiden Lane and 
 the corner of Stainuig Lane. The room called the Hall is very spacious and lofty, is pared 
 with marble and Purbeck stone, and wainscoted above twelve feet high. At the west end, 
 where there are two arcihed apertures, is a screen beautifully ornamented with pilasters of 
 the Corinthian order. The Company of Haberdashers, which is the eighth in order of pre- 
 cedency, was anciently known by ike name of Harriers and Milainers, &om their dealing 
 principally in merchandise imported from Milan. They were afterwards incorporated by 
 Henry VI. in the year 1467, by the style of " The firatenaity of St. Catherine the Virgin, of 
 the Haberdashery of the city of London." At present, however, they are denominated 
 " The Master and four Wardens of the fraternity of the ai't or mystray of Haberdasher, 
 in the city of London." 
 
 This corporation is governed by a master, four wardens, and a numerous court of assist- 
 ants. It is a livery company, and has at all times been of such repute that they have been 
 entrusted with the benefecfions of many pious persons, pursuant to Hie vriils and directions 
 of whom, they pay annually, for charitable uses several thousand pounds. 
 
 Sadlees' Hall, Cheapside. 
 
 This Hall stands at the south-east angle of Foster Lane, and fronting towards Cheapside. 
 It is a very neat building, the inside of which is adorned with fret-work wainscoting, and, 
 though small, exceeds many others both in beauty and convenience. The Hall itself is 
 sitaated in a small court, with a handsome gateway entrance to the street. 
 
 This Company is of great antiquity, as appears by a convention between them and the 
 dean and chapter of St. Martins' -le-gi-and, about the reign of Richard I. They were not 
 however legally incorporated till Edward I. granted them a charter by the style of "The 
 Wardens, or keepers and commonalty of the mystery or art of Sadlers of London." It stands 
 as the twenty-fifth livery company in the City List, and is governed by a chief or prime, 
 three other wardens, and a court of assistants. 
 
 Merchant Taylors' Hall, Threadneedle Street. 
 
 The entrance to this edifice is by a large handsome gateway, adorned with two dem^- 
 columns, the entablature and pediment of which ai-e of the Composite oi-der. Above the 
 entrance are the aims of the Company finely executed in stone. Within ai-e tapestry 
 hangings, containing the history of their patron, St. John the Baptist, which, though old, 
 are curious and valuable. The great hall is very extensive and, fi-om its size better adapted 
 for meetings of large public bodies than any other in the city, and is therefore occasionally 
 appropriated to such purposes. 
 
1 * 
 
 ^sS:>%i:f- 
 
 Tl.Sff. 
 
 HABEKDA^HER'S ILAIL, MAIDEN LAWi. 
 
 SABLEIIS HAT l. CHEAPSIDE 
 
 
 TAirir-.OIR.*S HALIL, TMlREAeHE.EID)X]E STLES.1EET. 
 
 ' Tfenrplo of the Muses, Fins"bTn:j_ Square Jsoninn. .'iA».y 7, liSSO 
 

 IFLE3ST EilARIKET, 3FIROM MOLBOMiT BIRSBGE. 
 
 HuHwn'by Thi' iLSliopbocd 
 
 ^i";n-av.\i "by T Barbv- 
 
 ]i:,eiQ)«JATE HEILIL, Fffi.OM FLEET aXK-EET. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 59 
 
 The Company was alnciently denominated " Taylors and Linen Armorers," and incorpo- 
 rated by letters patent of the fiffli of Henry IV., in the year 1466 ; but several of the 
 Company being eminent merchants and Henry VII. a member thereof, he by letters patent, 
 in 1503, re-incoi-porated the same under the title of " The Master and Wardens of the Mer- 
 chant Taylors of the fraternity of St. John the Baptist." They are governed by a master, 
 four wardens, and a court of assistants. Their livery is numerous, and their estates very 
 Considerable : out of which they pay to charitable uses, pursuant to the wills of the respective 
 donojs, some thousands per annum. They stand as the seventh of the city companies. 
 
 The late Fleet Maeket 
 
 (now Farringdon Street.) 
 
 This market, recently removed, and now called Farringdon Market, was erected on the 
 ancient watercourse of the Fleet Rivulet, or as it was afterwards denominated when it be- 
 came choked with filth. Fleet Ditch. 
 
 This rivulet was increased in its course to the Thames by TurnmUl-brook, or the river of 
 Wells, and a stream called the Old Bourn, and was fonnerly navigable as high as Holborn- 
 bridge, or, according to some authors much higher ; for Maitland relates that an anchor had 
 been found, a short time before he wrote his history of London, at Black Mary's-hole and 
 that it was commonly reported that one had been found at Pancras. However this may be, 
 it is certain that flood-gates were raected in it in 1606, and that after the fire of London it 
 was cleansed, enlarged, and made capable of bringing barges of considerable burden to 
 Holbom-bridge, where the water was five feet deep in the lowest tides. The side walls of 
 this canal were built of stone and brick, and the wharfs on each side were thii'ty-five feet in 
 breadth and covered with warehouses for storing provisions, coals, and the various commo- 
 dities brought here for the supply of that part of the metropolis contiguous to it. 
 
 Over this canal were four bridges of Portland stone, viz. at Bridewell, Fleet Street, Fleet 
 Lane and Holbora, 
 
 In clearing it from the rubbish of the fire, in 1670, many Roman utensils were found at a 
 depth of fifteen feet ; and still lower a great quantity of Roman coins, in silver, copper, 
 brass, and other metals, which were conjectured to have been thrown m by the terrified 
 inhabitants, at the approach of Boadicea, with her army of Britons. The silver coins were 
 the ring money of several sizes, from that of a crown to a silver two-pence, each having a 
 snip in the edge. 
 
 Besides these antiquities, a number of others were found, marked with Saxon characters, 
 such as arrow heads, spur-rowels of a hand's breadth, daggers, seals, and keys, and a con- 
 siderable number of modem medals with crosses, crucifixes, &c. 
 
 But the expense of keeping this canal navigable proving extremely burdensome to the 
 citizens, it was at last neglected, and became a great and dangerous nuisance, which occa- 
 sioned the city to apply to parliament for power to arch it over, and make it level with the 
 street; and, having obtained an act for that purpose, the work was begun in the year 1734, 
 
60 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 and a market house, with other conveniences, being erected on the place, it was opened on 
 the 30th of September, 1737, by the name of Fleet-market. 
 
 This market consisted of two rows of shops, almost the whole length of it, with a passage 
 between, paved with rag-stone. In the centre was a turret, with a clock; ^nd at the north end 
 was a large area for dealers in vegetables. 
 
 By the act of parliament to enable the citizens to erect this market, the fee-simple of the 
 ground on which it stood was vested in the mayor, commonalty and citizens of London, for 
 ever, with a proviso that sufficient drains should be kept through the channel, and that no 
 houses or sheds, exceeding fifteen feet in height, were to be erected thereon. 
 
 On the east side of this market, between Ludgate Hill and Fleet Lane, is the Fleet-prison, 
 which was a place of confinement for debtors as early as the reign of Richard I. 
 
 It is a brick building of considerable length, ^vith galleries in each story, that reach from 
 one end to the other, in which are the rooms for the prisoners. Tliere are about 125 of 
 these rooms, besides a common kitchen, coffee and tap-rooms ; and behind the prison 
 is a spacious area, in which the prisoners walk, and exercise themselves at different 
 diversions. 
 
 Ludgate Hill, from Fleet Street. 
 
 The grand and truly picturesque view which this point of the metropolis presents to the 
 pedestrian has induced our artist to select it as a subject for an engraving; and it would be 
 difficult to find one more imposing, and combining so many beautifiil objects within so small 
 a focus, in any part of the metropoUs. Looking to the right, as you approach Ludgate HUl 
 fi'om Fleet Street, is Bridge Street — spacious, open, and with regulai'ly built houses of the first 
 class, and terminated by that fine object, Blackfiriars' Bridge. On the left, and forming a 
 continuation of the same line of street, but crossed by Ludgate HUl and Fleet Street, with 
 their ever-moving multitudes, is Farringdon Street, late the site of Fleet Market, and now 
 forming, tmder its new denomination, a very wide and handsome thoroughfare. In the fi"ont 
 view, the eye catches to the right the obelisk, and, opposite to it, that splendid specimen of 
 domestic architecture, the Albion Fire and Life Insm'ance Office. Extending in firont, on the 
 left hand, a small distance from the Old Bailey and adjoining the London Coffee House, is 
 the neat and slender little spire of St. Martin, wliich serves to give increased effect by conb-ast 
 to its colossal neighbour, St. Paul's, the dome of which, and part of the beautifld portico 
 and pediment forming the gi-and entrance, thus terminates and crowns the vista ; the whole 
 bounded on the right and left, as fai' as the eye can reach, by some of flie most elegant shops 
 to be met with in the metropolis. 
 
ST, STEPHEN", WALBROOK. 
 
 ST, MAKY WOOLNOTH, LOMBARD ST. 
 
 I'.ivravoi by W W&]lis. 
 
 THE MAWSH'OM EOlUSlii, !FR©M THE IBAHK. 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 61 
 
 Church of St. Stephen, Walbrook. 
 
 At a small distance from the south end of the Mansion-house, and on the east side of 
 Walbrook, stands the parish church of St. Stephen, Walbrook, which owes its name to its 
 dedication to St. Stephen, the Protomartyr, and its situation. It appears by ancient records 
 that a church dedicated to the same patron was situated near this spot, but on the opposite 
 side of the stream, prior to the year 1135, when it was given to the monastery of St. John in 
 Colchester, by Eudo, Sewer to Henry I. How long the patronage was possessed by this 
 fraternity, or for what consideration they parted with it, does not appear; but in 1428, it be- 
 longed to John duke of Bedford ; in which year Robert Chichely, mayor, gave a plot of 
 ground on the east side of the water coiurse, 208J feet in length, and^sixty-six in breadth, to 
 the parish of St. Stephen, to build a new church thereon, and for a church-yard ; and in the 
 following year he laid the first stone of the building for himself, and the second for William 
 Stondon, a former mayor, deceased, who left money for the purchase of the ground, and 
 towards the charge of the building ; the remainder being supplied by Chichely. 
 
 Robert Whittington, draper, afterwards made a knight of the bath, purchased the advow- 
 son of this rectory from the duke of Bedford, in 14-32. From him it passad into the family 
 of Lee, two of whom of the name of Richard, supposed to be father and son, the former 
 being a knight and the latter an esquire, served the office of mayor in 1460 and 1469. The 
 last of these presented to it in 1474, after which he gave it to the Glrocers' Company, in 
 which it still reniains. 
 
 The old church being destroyed by the fire of London, the present edifice was erected in 
 its stead by Sir Christopher Wren ; and is considered by many to be the masterrpiece of 
 that great architect: it is even asserted that Italy cannot produce any modem structure equal 
 to this in taste, proportion, elegance and beauty. 
 
 It is a noble structure of stone, but its external beauties are hid from the sight by the ad- 
 jacent buildings, except the steeple, which is square to a considerable height, and is then 
 surrounded with a balustrade, within which rises a very light and elegant tower in two 
 stages ; the first adorned with Corinthian, and the second vtdth Composite columns ; and 
 covered with a dome, from which rises a vane. 
 
 The principal beauties of this church are, however, within ; where the dome, which is 
 spacious and noble, is fibely proportioned to the church, and divided into small compartments, 
 elegantly decorated, and crowned with a lantern ; the roof, which is also divided into compart- 
 ments, is supported by very noble Corinthian columns, raised on their pedestals. It has 
 three aisles, and a cross aisle ; is seventy -five feet long, thirty-six feet broad, thirty-four feet 
 high to the roof, and fifty-eight feet to the lantern. On the sides under the lower roof are 
 circular windows, but those which enlighten the upper roof are small arched ones. Over 
 the altar, at the east end, is a large beautiful painting of the stoning of St. Stephen, which 
 was presented by the Rev. Dr. Wilson, and put up in the month of September, 1776. 
 The painting and frame together cost 700 guineas. The christening font is of fine white 
 marble, curiously carved. 
 
 R 
 
62 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 After the fire of London, the new church of St. Stephen was made the parochial church 
 of this parish and that of St. Bennet, Sherehog, in Cheap ward, the church of which was 
 not rebuilt. 
 
 Church op St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard Street. 
 
 At the north-east comer of Sherborne lane, on the south side of Lombard street, stands 
 the parish church of St. Maiy Woolnoth, which is so called firom its dedication to the Virgin 
 Mary, and its being originally situated near the Woolstaple ; the syllable noth, corrupted 
 from neath, signifying near. The Woolstaple was the place for weighing wool, and stood 
 in the church-yard of St. Mary Woolchureh Haw, to the east of the Stocks-market. 
 
 This church is of some antiquity, as appears fi:om John de Norton being rector thereof in the 
 year 1355; and, from various circumstances, it is supposed that a Roman temple, perhaps the 
 Temple of Concord, stood originally on this spot; for in digging the foundation for the present 
 edifice, which is one of the fifty new churches appointed by parliament to be erected within 
 the bills of mortality, in the year 1719, there were found a considerable number of tusks 
 and bones of boars and goats, with several models and pieces of metal, some tesselated 
 work, part of an aqueduct, and a great variety of Roman earthen vessels, both for sacred 
 and profane uses ; and at the bottom was found a well, full of dirt, which being removed, a 
 fine spring of salubrious water arose, wherein was fixed a pump. 
 
 The old church was not entirely destroyed by the fire of London; the steeple escaped the 
 flames, and the walls were repaired. But these, in length of time, falling greatly to decay, 
 it was thought necessary to puU down the whole ; in consequence of which, it was rebuilt 
 of stone, in the year 1719, in the manner it now appears. 
 
 This is a very handsome structure, but the ornaments of it were till lately hid from the 
 sight by the neighbouring buildings. The windows are on the south side, where the edifice 
 is entirely surrounded by houses ; and the front of it, which is bold and majestic, is still so 
 obscured, that it cannot be seen to advantage. On the north side, which fronts Lombard 
 street, instead of windows there are three very large and lofty niches, adorned with Ionic 
 columns, and surrounded with a bold rustic ; and over these is a large cornice, upon which 
 is placed a balustrade. The entrance is at the west end, by a lofty rustic arch, over which 
 rises a broad shallow tower, ornamented with six composite columns in the front, and two on 
 the sides ; upon this are raised two small towers in front, crowned with balustrades ; from 
 one end of which rises a flag-staff, with a vane. 
 
 This church is a rectory, the patronage of which was anciently in the prioress and convent of 
 St. HeWSjin Bishopsgate Street, till at the dissolution it fell to the crown; when king Henry 
 Vni. granted it to Sir Martin Bowes, in whose family the patronage has ever since continued. 
 The living was greatly improved by the parish of St. Mary Woolchureh being annexed to 
 it, the patronage of which is in the crown ; and, from the time St. Mary Woolnoth was 
 erected, it has been the parochial church for both parishes. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 63 
 
 The Mansion House. 
 
 This is a building of considerable magnificence, though, from its' confined and low situa- 
 tion, it has an appearance of heaviness, which, on an elevated spot, in an area proportionate 
 to its magnitude, it would be free from. It is substanlially built of Portland stone, and has 
 a portico of six lofty columns of the Corinthian order in the fi'ont, the pilasters under the 
 ^pediment aind on each side being of the sanie order. The basement story is very massy, and 
 built in rustic. In the centre of this story is the entrance to the kitchen, cellars, and other 
 offices ; and on each side rises a flight of steps, of very considerable extent, leading up to 
 the portico, in the middle of which is the door that opens to the apartments and offices 
 where business is transacted. The stone balustrade of the stairs is continued along the 
 front of the portico ; and the columns, which are wrought in the proportions of Palladio, support 
 a large angular pediment, adorned with a very noble piece of scidpture, representing the 
 dignity and opulence of the city of London, finely designed, and well executed by Mr. 
 Taylor. 
 
 The principal figure represents the genius of the city, in the dress of the goddess Cybele, 
 clothed with the imperial robe, alluding to her being the capital of this kingdom, with a 
 crown of turrets on her head, holding the praetorian wand in her right hand, and leaning 
 with her left on the city arms. She is placed between two pillars, or columns, to express 
 the stability of her condition ; and on her right hand stands a naked boy, with the fasces 
 and axe in one hand, and the sword with the cap of liberty upon it in the other, to show 
 that authority and justice are the true supports of liberty, and that while the former are 
 exerted with vigour the latter will continue in a state of youth. At her feet lies a figure re- 
 presenting Faction, as it were in agony, with snakes twining round his head; intimating that 
 the exact government of this city, not only preserves herself, but retorts just punishment on 
 such as envy her happy condition. In the group farther to the right, the chief figure repre- 
 sents an ancient river god, his head crowned with flags and rushes, his beard long, a rudder 
 in his right hand, and his left arm leaning on an urn, which pours forth a copious stream ; 
 the swan at his feet shows this to be the Thames : the ship behind, and the anchor and 
 cable below him, very emphatically express the mighty tribute of riches paid by the commerce 
 of this river to the city to which it belongs. On the left hand there appears the figure of a 
 beautiful woman, in a humble posture, presenting an ornament of pearls vnth one hand, 
 and pouring out a mixed variety of riches firom a cornucopia, or horn of plenty, with the 
 other ; signifying the abundance which flows from the union of domestic industry and 
 foreign trade. Behind her is a stork, and two naked boys, playing with each other, and 
 holding the neck of the stork, to signify that piety, brotherly love, and mutual affection, pro- 
 duce arid seciure that vast stock of wealth, of various kinds, which appears near them in 
 bales, bags, and hogsheads ; so that every thing in this piece is not barely beautifid and 
 ornamental, but at the same time instructively expressive of the happy condition of that 
 great city, for the residence of whose chief magistrate this noble building was erected. 
 
g4 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, 
 
 Beneath this portico are two series of windows, which extend along the whole front j and 
 above these is an attic story with square windows, crowned with a balustrade. 
 
 The building is much deeper than it is wide ; it has an area in the middle, and at the 
 farthest end is an Egyptian Hall, which is the length of the front, very lofty, and designed 
 for public entertainments. Near the ends at each side is a window of extraordinary height 
 placed between coupled Corinthian pilasters, and extending to the top of the attic story., 
 
 The inside apartments and offices are exceedingly noble, and elegantly furnished. On the 
 west side of the building is a commodious door for the admittance of private company; and 
 on the east side is the entrance to the justice room. The greatest inconvenience which at- 
 tends this edifice arises from its being so crowded with houses, especially on the sides, that 
 the rooms are dark ; and even in the front there is not a sufficient area to enlighten the 
 building. Notwithstanding this imperfection, it is certainly a very noble structure, and 
 well calculated for the discharge of that business, and the dignity of that magistrate for 
 whom it was erected. 
 
 The whole expense of building the Mansion house (including the sum of i£3900, paid for 
 purchasing houses to be pulled down) amounted to £42,638. 18s. 8d. 
 
 The Tablet in Pannier Alley. — King Charles's Porter and Dwarf. 
 
 Pannier Alley is named from a stone monument erected on the 6th of August, 1688 
 having the figm-e of a pannier, on which a naked boy is sitting, with a bunch of grapes 
 held between his hand and foot, and undemeatli the following couplet: — 
 
 When you have sought the city round, 
 Yet still this is the highest ground. 
 
 Over the entrance of Bull Head Court, Newgate Street, is a small stone, sculptured \vith 
 the figures of William Evans, the gigantic porter belonging to Charles I., and his diminutive 
 fellow servant Jeffery Hudson, dwarf to the said monarch, as represented in the engraving. 
 
 JeflFery Hudson, when he was about seven or eight years of age, was served up at table 
 in a cold pie at Burleigh on the Hill, the seat of the Duke of Buckingham; and as soon as 
 he made his appearance was presented by the Duchess to the Queen, who retained him in 
 her service: he was then but eighteen inches in height. In a masque at court, the gigantic 
 porter drew him out of his pocket to the surprise of all the courtiers.- He is said not toliave 
 gi-own any taller till after thirty, when he shot up to three feet nine inches. Soon after the 
 breaking out of the civil war, he was made a captain in the royal ai-my. In 1664, he at- 
 tended the queen into France, where he had a quairel with a gentleman named Crofts 
 whom he challenged. Mr. Crofts came to the place of appointment, armed only with I 
 squirt. A real duel soon after ensued, in which the antagonists engaged on horseback- Crofte 
 was shot dead the first fire. Jeflery returned to England after Uie Restoration, and was 
 afterwards confined in the gate-house at Westminster, on suspicion of being concerned in 
 the Popish Plot. He died in confinement, in the sixty-thii-d year of his age. Ashmole's 
 
When < h/ve Suvr.H . f £41 
 
 THE CiTTY ROVND | i 
 
 Yf.t still this is \\ ^J 
 
 THL Hlf H 7GP0V^MJ ! ^. "'■ 
 Avr./iT THE ^/ ' <('A 
 
 i ,t.o / f^ ^ ^ - - I ''K\ 
 
 Dra5^"b7 Tho.H.Slieplerd. 
 
 imrO CHARLES IB'f PORTER fe EfWATir, ITEWGATE STREET. 
 
 AEIGITRE AND TABLET, nr PAjrN"IER ALLEY; "NEWGATE ST. 
 
 71 9. 
 
 Engraved hj T Baiter. 
 
 . BOW PTILLED DOWN 
 
 jle of.tlie Mu.ses Flnsl^uiy Squjie, LnndoD, Uov 7. 1^.29. 
 
n.3. ST. ieo:n'ard'S , shokeditch 
 
 TU 
 
 ST CLEMF,N"T DAN'ES . STRASD. 
 
 LravTE Ijj TiaZ Steplerd 
 Pl.3. 
 
 Sugf-tj XB.JCaen 
 
 ST. BUJWSTAM IIW THIE WEST, FIL,EKT STiRffiST. 
 
 PuUislei >fov,l, 1829, V Jones 4 C?lciiiaii.. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 65 
 
 Museum at Oxford contained his waistcoat, breeches, and stockings ; the former of blue 
 satin, slashed, and ornamented with blue and white silk; the two latter were of one piece 
 of blue satin. 
 
 Exeter Change, Strand. 
 
 Nearly opposite to the Savoy, in the Strand, stood Exeter Exchange, now taken down for 
 the modern improvements. It was originally a handsome building, with an arcade in front, 
 and a gaUery above, with shops in both ; but, the plan failing, the arcades were filled up, 
 and it since contained two rows of dark shops, with a paved passage between them. The 
 gallery was principally used as lodgings for the shopkeepers; and at the east end was an exhi- 
 bition of living subjects of natural history. This place took its name from having been buUt 
 upon the site of the mansion house of the earls of Exeter, a part of which then remained. 
 On this spot formerly stood the parsonage house of the parish of St. Martin; but Sir Thomas 
 Palmer, a creature of the protector Somerset, emulating the infamous example of his patron, 
 obtained it by composition, and began to erect a stately mansion of brick and timber. This 
 afterwards came into the hands of the lord treasurer Burleigh, who finished it in a very mag- 
 nificent manner, and adorned it with four square turrets. He died here, in 1598 ; after 
 which it descended to his son, and took the name of Exeter House from his title. 
 
 Church of St. Leonard, Shoreditch. 
 
 This church is thus denominated fi'om its dedication to St. Leonard, Bishop of Limoges, 
 in France, and its situation in the hamlet of Shoreditch. 
 
 There was a church in this place dedicated to tlie same saint in very early times, and there 
 are records of a dispute concerning the right of presentation to the rectory, between Henry II. 
 and the prior and canons of the Holy Trinity in London, which being determined in favour 
 of the king, he presented Walter de Wettener. 
 
 In the year 1203, king John granted this rectory, by the name of the church of Seordig, 
 to William de Sanctse MariEB, bishop of London, as a foundation for the office of chief 
 chanter or precentor of St. Paul's Cathedral, which the bishop confirmed for that purpose ; 
 but it was soon after alienated from this office, and conferred upon that of the archdeacon of 
 London, who has held the rectory ever since, and has the right of appointing a vicar : and 
 all the parish is subject to his jurisdiction in ecclesiastical matters, except the liberties of 
 Hoxton and Norton-folgate, which belong to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's. 
 
 The old church, which was a very mean heavy pUej stood till the year 1735, when the 
 inhabitants having the year before applied to parliament, it was pulled down, and the present 
 light and elegant edifice was soon after erected in its stead. 
 
 To this church there is an ascent by a double flight of plain steps, which lead to a portico 
 of the angular kind, supported by four Doric columns, and bearing an angular pediment. 
 The body of the edifice is plain, but well enlightened, and the steeple light, elegant and 
 lofty. The tower at a proper height has a series of Ionic columns, and on their entablatm-e 
 
 S 
 
66 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 are scrolls which support as many Corinthian columns on pedestals, and supporting a dome 
 from whose crown rises a series of columns of the Composite order, on the entablature of 
 which rests the spire, standing upon four balls, which give it an additional air of lighteess, 
 and on the top is a ball and vane. 
 
 Church of St. Clement Danes, Strand. 
 
 At a small distance from Temple-bar, on the north ^dteof thfe Strand, is sitmMed the parish 
 church of St. Clement Danes. 
 
 The first part of this name is derived from its dedication to St. Clement, a disciple of St. 
 Peter, the apostle, but the latter part has been always an object of conjecture. Baker says, 
 it derived this name from having been the place of re-interment of Harold, wbose brother 
 Hardicanute had caused his body to be dug up and thrtfwn into the Thames, where it was 
 found by a fishermaii, "who buried it in the church-yai-d of St. Clement, without Temple-bar, 
 then caUed the church of the Danes." William of M^mesbiuy mentions a, church here, 
 before the arrival of the Danes, which, he says, they burnt together with the monks and 
 abbot, and that they continued then- savage and sacrilegious fiuy throughout the land. He 
 then goes on, " desirous at length ,to return to Denmark, they were about to embark, when 
 they were, by the just judgment of God, all slain at London, in a place which has since 
 been called the church of the Danes." There is also another reason given for the denomina- 
 tion of this church, namely, that when most of the Danes were driven out of tliis kingdom, 
 those few that remained, being married to English women, were obliged to live between the 
 Isle of Thomey (Westminster), and Caer Lud (Ludgate), where they built a synagogue, 
 which was afterwards consecrated and called " Ecclesia Clementis Danorum." This is the 
 account given by Fleetwood, the antiquary, recorder of London, to the lord-treasurer Bur- 
 leigh, who resided in this parish. 
 
 The old church was taken down in 1680, and the present structiu'e erected in 1682, under 
 the direction of Sir Christopher Wren ; but the steeple was not added to it for some years. 
 
 It is a very handsome structure, built entirely of stone. The body of it is enlightened 
 by two series of windows ; the lower plain, but the upper well ornamented ; and the teimi- 
 nation is by an attic, whose pilasters are crowned with vases. The entrance, on the south 
 side, is by a portico, to which there is an ascent of a few steps : tlie portico is covered with 
 a dome, supported by Ionic columns. On each side the base of the steeple, in the west 
 front, is a small Square tower with its dome. The steeple is carriied to a great height in 
 several stages ; where it begins to diminish, the Ionic order takes place, and its entablature 
 supports vases. The next stage is of the Corinthian order, and above that stands the Com- 
 posite, supporting a dome, which is crowned with a smaller one, fi-om whence rises the ball 
 and its vane. 
 
 This church is a rectory, the patronage of whicli was anciently in the Knights Templai's; 
 but, after passing through several hands, it at length came to the earls of Exeter, in whom it 
 still remains. The length of this church is ninety-six feet, its breadth sixty-three, and its 
 height to the roof forty-eight feet ; and the altitude of the steeple is about 140 feet. 
 

i'lJi. 
 
 TRIMKT'r iai®ir!S'iB, TKS'V/aiK Hlllti. 
 
 Drawn "bj Tho.H Slicplierd 
 PI. 11 
 
 KntfraVTcibv R.WiTiUles 
 
 TOWS lilAILilLi, B(!J)]R®T!J(£m mc&H STUWET. 
 
 Jonea ,& C" Tfliriple of tlie Mujjcs .t'xns'biir^'- Squai'e. London, Jan I LSJO. 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 67 
 
 Chukch of St. Dunstan, in the West, Fleet Stkeet. 
 
 Tliis church is so called to distinguish it from another in Tower Ward, dedicated to the 
 same saint, and called St. Dunstan in the East. 
 
 It is a very ancient foundation, in the gift of the Abhot and Convent of Westminster, 
 who, in the year 1237, gave it to King Henry III., towards the maintenance rf the founda- 
 tion of the house called the Rolls, for the reception of converted Jews. It was afterwards 
 conveyed to the Abbot and Convent of Alnwick, in Northumberland, in which patronage it 
 continued till tifeiat religious house was suppressed by King Hem-y VIII. Edward VI. 
 granted the advowson of this church, under the name of a vicarage, to Lord Dudley. Soon 
 after which, the rectory and vicarage were granted to Sir Richard Sackville, and the impro- 
 priation has continued ever since in private hands. 
 
 This is one of the churches that escaped the fire of London, the flames having stopped 
 within three doors of it; since which time, however, it has been frequentiy repaired, and the 
 inconveniences that formerly arose from a number of small shops, or sheds, that stood in the 
 front of it have been remedied by their removal. 
 
 The church, which is built of brick and stone, consists of a large body, with a very dis- 
 proportionate square tower. It is ninety feet in length, sixty feet in breadth, thirty-six feet 
 in height, to the roof, and the altitude of the turret is 100 feet. The dial of the clock pro- 
 jects over the street, on the south side of the church, and the clock-house is formed of an Ionic 
 porch, containing two figures erect, carved and paiuted, and as large as life, which, with knotted 
 clubs, alternately strike the quarters on two bells hung between them : these figures were set up 
 in the year 1671. In a niche at the east end of the church is the statue of Queen Elizabeth, 
 which formerly stood on Ludgate, and, when that gate was taken down, was purchased by 
 alderman Gosling, and placed in its present situation. It is in contemplation to take down 
 the present church, and buUd another either on its site, or some part contgiuous. 
 
 The ground in this neighbourhood appears to have been anciently of a marshy nature, or 
 else within the course of the tide ; for, in digging at the end of Chancery lane, and further 
 eastward in Eleet street, in the year 1595, a stone pavement was discovered at the depth of 
 fom- feet from the surface, which was supported by a number of piles, driven very close to 
 each other. 
 
 Trinity House, Tower Hill. 
 
 This is a handsome stone-fronted building, consisting of a main body and two wings ; the 
 latter of wliich project a little. The basement story is of massy rustic work, and in the 
 centi'e is the entrance, which, as well as all the windows in this story, is arched. On this 
 rises the principal story, of the Ionic order, supporting a plain entablature, on which rests a 
 sloping roof In the centre of the main body are the arms of the coi-poration, and, on each 
 side, a circillar medallion, containing the profiles of George III. and his consort. Above the 
 windows, in the two wings, are square medallions, in which are groups of genii, exhibiting 
 
68 LONDON IN THE . NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 different nautical instruments, with representations of the four principal light-houses on the 
 coast. This building is seen to great advantage, by being placed on a rising ground, and 
 having an extensive area in front. 
 
 Town Hall, Borough High Street. 
 
 At the south extremity of the Borough High Street, formerly stood a church dedicated to 
 St. Margaret on the Hill, the site of which is now occupied by a comt of justice, or Town 
 Hall. It is a modern built brick edifice, the front of which is ornamented with stone, and 
 consists of a rustic basement stoiy^ above which are a series of Ionic pilasters, and the 
 whole is crowned with a handsome balustrade. 
 
 The steward for the city of London holds a court of record here every Monday, for all 
 debts, damages, and trespasses, within his limits. 
 
 Besides this court, there are three court-leets held in the borough, for its three liberties, 
 or manors, viz., the great liberty, the guildable, and the king's manor ; in which are chosen 
 constables, aleconners, &c. 
 
 Church of St. Paul, Covent Garden. 
 
 This chui'ch, which is dedicated to St. Paul the Apostle, is remarkable for its majestic 
 simplicity. It is said, on the authority of Lord Oxford, that when the earl engaged Inigo 
 Jones to build it, he told him he wanted a chapel, not much better than a bam ; to which 
 the architect replied, " well, then, you shall have the handsomest bam in England." In 
 the front is a plain but noble portico, of the Tuscan order, executed in the most masterly 
 manner; the columns are massy, and the intercolumniation large. Though as plain as pos- 
 sible, the building is happily proportioned. The walls being of brick, were cased Avith 
 stone about the year 1788, at an expense of £11,000, including the other re- 
 pairs at that time. The windows are of the Tuscan order, to correspond with the portico, 
 and the altai--piece is adorned with eight fluted columns of the Corinthian order. The roof 
 was entirely of wood, and considered a most inimitable piece of architecture, being sup- 
 ported by the walls alone. Unfortunately, tliis was destroyed by a fire, which consumed 
 the whole interior of the church, on the 17th of September, 1795 ; since which it has been 
 rebuilt, and is very Uttle different from the original structure. 
 
 The patron of this parish enjoys the unusual privilege of nominating a chui'chwarden ; 
 the rector nominates another, and the parishioners elect a third. 
 
 The election of members to serve in parliament, for the city of Westminster, is held in 
 fi'ont of this church, on temporaiy hustings erected for that purpose. 
 
 Buckingham Water Gate, Strand. 
 
 On the south side of the Sti'and are avenues to York Buildings, so called from having 
 been the residence of the ai'chbishops of York, till archbishop Matthew, in the reign of 
 

 1X21 
 
 "B's: 
 
 2.r^i'-oi'b7 -T.Bensliaii, 
 
 ■WATEIE ©ATJE. §TMASJB. 
 
 ^iait^^I^5i'j;i«i]jie of Vap MoaoB. l''i!-nsbnr_y Sqtia.TG,iionQoa. J'ah 1, j830 
 
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ttravmljy Tho B Shcphcta. 
 
 GUY EAItL OT 'WABMriCK .-WASWLCK. UiXTE 
 
 n 18. 
 
 iraveity J B Alleij 
 
 n.i9. 
 
 ICOTDOKT srONE. CajHTOH" STIOLET. 
 
 Drawn try Tho S aieplieca. 
 
 n 'zc. 
 
 ^ J- Eugraved "bY J B ABea. 
 
 sT. 
 
 GAT E . £ ]L a iSi* j ■■ ."SJ ;<!■•£ )I . I, . 
 
LONDON IN THE iflNETEENTH CENTUEY. 69 
 
 James I., exchanged it with the, crown for several manors. It was the residence of lord 
 chancellors Egerton and Bacon, after which it was . granted to George Villiers, duke of 
 Buckingham, who rebuilt it most magnificently. In 1648 the parliament bestowed it on 
 general Fairfax, whose daughter and heiress marrying the second duke of Buckingham, 
 the-house reverted to its true OAvner, who resided here several years subsequent to the He- 
 storation, but at length disposed of it, and laid several streets out on the site, which go by 
 his name and titles, — " George Street, Villiers' Street, Duke Street, Oif Alley, and Bucking- 
 ham Street." 
 
 At the bottom of these streets, next the river, is a very elegant stone Water Gate to 
 the stairs. The design of this gate is greatly admired, and is eveiy way worthy of its archi- 
 tect, Inigo Jones. It is of the Tuscan order, and ornamented with rustic work, which can 
 never be better introduced, than in buildings by the side of water, and indeed it is a ques- 
 tion, with some judges, whether it ought to be made use of any where else. This gate is 
 considered a most perfect piece of building, of such equal and harmonious parts, and so ap- 
 propriately embellished, that nothing can justly be censured or added. 
 
 The stairs have for a considerable time fallen into disuse, from the causeway to them 
 having been so long neglected as to render the approach of the boats almost impossible, 
 except at high water. Near these stairs was erected the high wooden tower, called York 
 Building's Water Works, for raising water for the supply of that neighbourhood. The 
 company, to whom it belonged, was incorporated by act of parliament in the year 1691. 
 
 Statue of Guy, Earl of Waewick.^London Stone, 
 
 The memory of the above mentioned eaii is still preserved by a stone statue, restored in 
 1817, in front of the house at the West comer of Warwick Lane, in Newgate Sti'eet The 
 Lane derives its name from the Inn or house of Richard Nevil, the king-maldng earl of 
 Warwick. Speaking of his coming to London, to the convention of 1458, Stow says, he was 
 accompanied by " six hundred men, all in red jackets imbroidered with ragged staves before 
 and behind, and was lodged in Warwicke Lane : in whose house there was often six oxen eaten 
 alt a breakfast, and every taverne was full of his meate, for hee that had anie . acquaintance 
 in that house, might have there so much of sodden and rost meate as he could pricke and 
 cany upon a long dagger." 
 
 Against the south wall of St. Swithin's church. Cannon Street, is placed the famous old 
 stone, called London Stone. This stone was much worn away before the fire of London; but 
 it is now cased over with a new stone, cut hollow, so that the old one may be seen. 
 
 This stone, which has been carefully preserved for many ages, is of great antiquity, as 
 appears from its being mentioned by the same name . so early as in the time of Ethelstan, 
 king of the West Saxons. It formerly stood nearer the channel opposite the same place ; 
 and, being fixed upright in the gTOund, was so well fastened, with bars of non, that it was 
 perfectly secured fi-om receiving any damage by caniages. 
 
 The antiquity of this stone cannot be traced; but, from the most reasonable conjecture, it 
 is supposed to be of Roman origin ; for, as the ancient Roman colony extended, fi-om the 
 
 T 
 
70 LONDON IN THE NINE'i'EENTH CENTURY. 
 
 river Thames, no higher than Cheapside, and Watling Street was the principal street, or 
 Preetorian way, it has been supposed, with great probahihty, that this stone was the centre, 
 from whence they measured the distances to their several stations throughout England, 
 more especially as these distances coincide very exactly. 
 
 Another conjecture is, that as this street was anciently the principal one in the city, as 
 Cheapside is at present, London stone might have been the place where public proclama- 
 tions and notices were given to the citizens. This conjecture has indeed some argument to 
 support it ; for, in the year 1450, when Jack Cade, the Kentish rebel, came through South- 
 wark into London, he marched to this stone, where was a great concourse of people, among 
 whom was the lord mayor. On this stone Jack Cade struck his sword, and said, " Now is 
 Mortimer lord of this city." 
 
 It is also said that this stone was set up for the tendering and making of payments by 
 debtors to their creditors, at their appointed days, till, in after times, they were usually made 
 at the font in St. Paul's church, or the Royal Exchange. 
 
 These, however, are but conjectures ; nor can we say more than that is is very singular 
 so much care should have been taken to presen-e the stone, and so little to preserve the his- 
 tory of its origin. 
 
 St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell. 
 
 Where St. John's Square is now situated, stood the house or hospital of St. John of Je- 
 rusalem, which was founded by Jordan Briset, and Muriel, his wife, who, for 'that purpose, 
 purchased of the prioress and Nuns of Clerkenwell ten acres of land, on which he erected 
 the said hospital, about the year 1110 ; but the church belonging to it was not dedicated to 
 St. John the Baptist, till the year 1185. 
 
 By the profuse liberality of bigots and enthusiastSj this foundation became the chief seat 
 in England belonging to the Knights Hospitallers ; and to such a degree of wealth and 
 honour did they arrive, that their prior was esteemed the first baron in the kingdom, and in 
 state and grandeur vied with the king. 
 
 Such was the emtipathy of the populace to these imperious knights, that the rebels ot 
 Kent and Essex, under the conduct of Wat Tyler and his rabble, in the yeai- 1381, con- 
 sumed this stately edifice by fire. However, it was afterwards rebuilt in a much more mag- 
 nificent manner, and continued upon its former system, till it was entirely suppressed by 
 Henry "VHI. in the year 1541. 
 
 Soon after this foundation was suppressed, the building was converted into a repositoiy of 
 martial stores, and the Royal hunting equipage ; and to these purposes it was applied till 
 the year 1550 ; when Edward Seymour, duke of Somerset and protector of the kingdom, 
 caused the church with its lofty and beautiful steeple, which Stow says was " graven gilt, 
 and inameled, to the great beautifying of tlie city, and passing all other that he had seen," 
 to be demolished, and the stones thereof used in building his magnificent palace of Somer- 
 set House. The priory adjacent was partly restored by queen Mary ; the remains of the 
 choir, and some side chapels, were repaired by cardinal Pole, and Sir Thomas Tresham was 
 appointed prior ; but it was again suppressed by Elizabeth., 
 
EiiCTavea"'c7 '>V V/^lh: 
 
 CHEAFSIISISb POCTLTIRir, Ss. BWCKLEHSBlffaT. 
 
 iT.v,.j l,y ITjo II L.lieplivra 
 
 En^avA I7 W. WsEis 
 
 ATLimKBATi:.. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 71 
 
 Part of the site of tliis priory is now occupied by St. John's Squai'e, an in-egular open 
 place. The southern entrance into it is by the, magnificent old gate of the priory, which is 
 still called St. John's Gate. It has a lofty Gothic arch, and on each side, over the gate, are 
 several escutcheons of arms, carved, under which were formerly inscriptions ; but these, by 
 length of time, are now entirely defaced. At the north-east corner of the square is the parish 
 church of St. John, ClerkenweU, which was at first erected as a chapel of ease to St. James's. 
 It is a plain brick building, with stone comers ; and the pati'onage of it is in the gift of the 
 lord chancellor, 
 
 Cheapside, Poultry, and Bucklersbury. 
 
 The imposing and interesting view which this spot presents to the eye of the perambula^ 
 tor, at once characteristic of Metropolitan activity, commerce, and opulence, renders it tauly 
 worthy of the pencil of the artist, whose correct and happy delineation is instantly ; recog^ 
 nized by all acquainted with the original. 
 
 The fine mansion to the right of the foreground is occupied' by, and the propeily olj one 
 who may be truly considered as a personification of the. above mentioned characteristics of 
 the place, and whose talents and indefatigable exertions have been crowned with merited 
 success. It was originally built by Sir Christopher Wren, as a residence for the then lord 
 mayor, and since it was purchased by its present occupant, Mr. Tegg, has been restored at 
 a very great expense to its pristine architectural beauty. It must be now pretty well known 
 as a mart for literature throughout the reading world, since the most extensive trade of the 
 Metropolis, in that branch of commerce, is there conducted on such liberal principles as to 
 ensure priority and success. Nearly opposite is the fine old entrance to Mercer's Hall, of 
 which a view has been given in a preceding part of this work. 
 
 The vista firom this point, where Cheapside, an epitome of the wealth and splendour of the 
 metropolis, terminates, is perhaps unequalled ; and the gay and ever moving throng of pedes- 
 trians and carriages give indescribable life and animation to the scene. Diver^g to the 
 right is Bucklersbury, coiTupted fi^om Bucklesbury, and which was named after one Buckle, 
 lord of the manor, who- resided and kept his court in a spacious stone building, called the 
 Old Barge, fi'om such a sign being in firont of it. The site of Ms mansion is now occupied 
 by Barge Yard ; to whidi place,, according to tradition, boats and barges came firom the 
 Thames, up the Walbrook, when its navigaticHi was open. , Directly fcont, and in continu- 
 ation of this great leading thoroughfaxei is the Poultry, fi-om, the end of which Lombard 
 Street diverges by a trifling inclination to the right, and Comhill to the left,. 
 
 Aldgate. 
 
 Somewhat similar to our preceding View, for bustle and activity, but deficient in archi- 
 tectural splendour- and variety, is this part of the High Street, Aldgate. 
 
 The name is a corruption of Ealdgate, signifying Old Gate, being- originally one of the 
 four piincipal. gates of the city, and that through which the Roman vicinal way led to the 
 
72 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Trajectus, or' ferry at Old-ford. The earliest mention we can find of it is in a charter 
 gi-anted by King Edgar, about the year 967. • 
 
 This gate, being in a veiy ruinous condition, was pulled down in the- year 1606, and re^ 
 built; but it was not completed till 1609. 
 
 In digging the foundation, several Roman coins were discovered, resemblances of two of 
 which Mr. Bond, one of the surveyors of the work, caused to be cut in stone, and placed on 
 each side of the east front, where thejr remained till the demolition of the gates. 
 
 In a lai-ge square, on the same side of the gate, was placed the statue of king James I., in 
 gilt armour, with a golden lion, and a chained unicorn, both couchant at his feet. 
 
 On the west side of the gate was a figure of Fortune, gilt, and standing on a globe, with 
 a prosperous sail spreading over her head, under which was carved the king's arms, with 
 the motto, Dieu et mon Droit, and a little below it, Vivat Rex : somewhat lower, on' the 
 south side, stood Peace, with a dove perched on one hand and a gilded wreath in the other. 
 On the north side of the gate was the figure of Charity, with a child at her breast, and 
 another in her baud. On the top of it was a vane, supported by a gilt sphere, on each side 
 of which stood a soldier holding a bullet in his hand, on the top of the upper battlements. 
 Over' the arch of the gate were carved the following words : 
 
 Senatus Populusque Londinensis 
 
 Fecit 1609, 
 
 Humphrey Weld, Maior. 
 
 There were two posterns through this gate ; that on the south side being made as 
 late as the year 1734. There were likewise apartments over it, which were appro- 
 priated to the use of one of the lord mayor's carvers, but had of late years been used as a 
 charity-school. 
 
 South Sea House, Threadneedle Street. 
 
 At the north east extremity of Threadneedle Street is the South Sea House. This house 
 stands upon a large extent of ground, lomning backward as far as Old Broad Sti'eet, facing 
 the church of St. Peter-le-Poor. The back firont was originally the Excise-office, and then 
 the South Sea Company's office, and it is now distinguished by the name of the Old South 
 Sea House. It is a substantial and handsome building of brick, ornamented with Portland 
 stone. The front, in Thi-eadneedle Street, is very beautifiil. The entrance is a gateway, 
 leading into a court, with a piazza, formed of Doric pillars. The walls are remarkably 
 solid, and the interior is very commodious : one room, in particulai", is peculiarly lofty, spa- 
 cious, and elegant. 
 
 Excise Office, Broad Street. 
 
 This handsome, plain, stone buildihg, stands on the east side of Broad Street. It is four 
 stories in height, with an entrance through the middle of, it into a large yard, in which is 
 
FTH SEA HOTDTSE, THiaiEABSriEEBILi ST. 
 
 IJrawn. by Tlio IT Shepherd 
 
 37 
 
■■u. /» 
 
nr.-iu-riW P-i.. T~ ^U- oil-; re 
 
 SEK rAL'l. ITNLIARS IIOUSK.. nrSOOPSCATR STUF.ET 
 
 MilKCKl-lS' llALL . CHEAPSIDE 
 
 28 
 
 
 EngtaTed-ty IC.BiirrHiget 
 
 SKltMMEaS' mAIiIi, lOxroWOATE HIILIt,. 
 
•LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUEY. 73 
 
 another building of brick, nearly the size of the principal one. The front building stands on 
 the site of ten almshouses, founded by Sir Thomas Gresham in 1575 ; and the back one, 
 Avith the yard, occupies the space on which Gresham College formerly stood. Part of it is 
 in Bishopsgate ward. From the centre of both buildings are long passages and staircases 
 to the galleries, in which are the numerous offices for the commissioners and clerks in the 
 different departments of the excise. 
 
 This is the principal office of excise in his majesty's dominions, and the business of it is 
 conducted by nine commissioners, under whom are a great number of officers, both within 
 and without the house. These receive the duties on beer, ale, and spirituous liquors ; on 
 tea, coffee, and chocolate ;, on malt, hops, soap, starch, candles, paper, vellum, parchment, 
 and other exciseable commodities : for the surveying and collecting of which duties a great 
 number of out-door officers are ein'ployed in different districts or divisons, throughout 
 the kingdom, to prevent frauds and losses. Before these conunissioners all cases of seizure 
 for frauds, commi'fted in the several branches of the revenue under their direction, are tried: 
 and from their determination there is no appeal except to the commissioners of appeal, who 
 are part of themselves, for a rehearing. 
 
 Sir Paul Pindar's House, Bishopsgate Street. 
 
 Nearly opposite to Widegate Street, in Bishopsgate Street, are the remains of the resi- 
 dence of Sir Paul Pindar, for some years past occupied as a liquor shop. Its original ancient 
 Gotliic fi'ont has been strangely metamorphosed, being stuccoed, coloiu-ed, &c. The original 
 owner who was one of the richest merchants of his time, was ruined by his conscientious at- 
 tachment to Chai-les I. He died in 1650, aged 84. An old house still remaining in half 
 Moon Street, running from Bishopsgate Street towards Long Alley, and which is easily dis- 
 tinguished by its raised figuring upon the front, was, according to tradition, that of Sir Paul 
 Pindar's gardener. 
 
 Mercer's Hall and Chapel, Ch£apside, 
 
 is situated on the spot that was once occupied by an hospital dedicated to St. Thomas of 
 Acors, or Aeons, and was founded for a master and brethren of the Augustine order, by 
 Thomas Fitz-Theobald de Heili, and his wife Agnes, sister to Thomas-a-Becket, who was 
 born, in the reign of King Hemy 'H. 
 
 On the dissolution of religious houses, in the reign of Henry VIII., this hospital was pur- 
 chased by the Mercers' Company, who had the gift of the mastership, and was opened by 
 them, immediately, imder the. name of Mercer's Chapel. They were both destroyed by the 
 fire of London, soon, after which the present structure was erected. 
 
 Tlie front, of this building, next Cheapside, is exceedingly handsome ; the door-case is en- 
 riched with the figures of two Cupids, mantling the Company's arms, with festoons,. &c. 
 Over the door is a balcony, adorned with two pilasters of the Ionic order, and a pediment, 
 with the figiures of Faith, Hope, and Charity, and other enrichments. The innei^court is 
 
 U 
 
74 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 adorned with piazzas, formed of columns of the Doric order. The hall-room and great 
 parlour are wainscoted with oak, and ornamented. with, lopic pilasters; and, the ceiling is 
 beautifu%: decorated with fiet-work. The chapel is neatly wainscoted, and paved with 
 black and white marble. . 
 
 , The entrance into this hall, iirom Ironmonger Lane, is decorated with rustic stone pillars, 
 supporting an arch, on the key-stone of which are the Company's arms. The door is pa- 
 nelled, and the upper compartment, on each side, is also, filled with the arms carved in 
 wood. 
 
 Skinners' Hali-, Dowgate Hill. 
 
 Oi^ the west side of Dowgate Hill is Skinners' Hall, a vejry handsome edifice, built with 
 bricks of diiFerent coloms : the hall room is elegantly wainscoted with oak^ and the great 
 parlour is panelled with cedaTi; The entrance to this building is through an arched door- 
 way, in a modem stone-fi:onted building, in which are the offices fi)r the clerk and other per- 
 sons belonging to the Company. In the beginning of the last century, the East India 
 Company had the use of this hall, for which they paid the Company three hundred pounds 
 per annum. 
 
 Church or St. Dionis, Backchurch. 
 
 Near thet south-west corner of Lime Street, behind the houses in Fenchurch Street, stands 
 the parish church of St. Dionis, JBackchm-ch. It owes its name to being dedicated to St 
 Dionis, pionysius,.m- Dennis, an Athenian areopagate, or judge, who, being converted to 
 Christianity, and afterwardsmade bishop of Athens,, ti-avelled into France, where he suffered 
 martyrdom, by being beheaded, and has been, since adopted as the patron saint of the French 
 nation. The epithet of Backchurch was added, fi-om its situation behind a row of houses 
 to distinguish it firom the church of St. Gabriel, which, before the fire in 1666, stood in the 
 middle of Fenchurch Street; wherefore those chm'ches were anciently known by no other 
 appellation but those of Fore and Backchurch. 
 
 The oldest authentic mention of this church is in the yeai- 1288, when Reginald de Stan- 
 don was rector of it. It is one of the thirteen peculiars in the city, belonging to tlie archbishop 
 of Canterbury. The patronage was formerly in the prior and canons of that chm-ch ; but, at 
 the dissolution of the priory, it was conferred upon the dean and chapter, who have re- 
 mained patrons ever since. 
 
 The old edifice was destioyed in 1666, and the present structure was erected in 1674, 
 except the steeple,, which was not added until ten years after. It is a plain stone building, 
 of the Ionic order, with a tower and turret, in which ai-e ten bells and a set of chimes. The 
 length of the church is sixtyrsix feet, its breadth fifty-nine, and the height of the roof thirty- 
 four feet; tliat of the tower and turret is ninety feet 
 
Dra-wn ly Tho.H. Shepherd 
 ^0 
 
 ST. ID)I®HIS ISAGKCHBTIECHs FEWCHUiaCai STKEIET. 
 
 Dra-wn \y ilio.II .SHepheT'd 
 
 Rngra-ved ^y J. B Allen. 
 
 ST. JOHKT TJBIK IBATPTirST. <SAV(ra-y 
 
Drawn try Tto.H.Shepheri. 
 2S 
 
 Engravei "bj W". Watkics 
 
 SiaAFBlES'' BEAE.I., THROC-KOKTOBT §T. 
 
 Drawn Try Tho H Sheplerd 
 
 70 
 
 Kagraved 1j7 W. Watlnns. 
 
 STATI®KriE1i«.K' IBIAK.]^, STATI©»KS» ITALIC. CO0RT. 
 
 (-,s % !■" Irrniik of I )i<' Munps , hnslwrv StpmTP 
 
 l.onilOTi, .Tan fl.ieSO 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY'. 75 
 
 Chapel of St." John the Baptist, Savoy. 
 
 In the Savoy is the ancient chapel belonging to the hospital, which. was originally dedi- 
 cated to St. John the Baptist; but, when the old church of St., Mary-le-Strand was de- 
 stroyed by the Protector Somerset,, the inhabitants of that parish united themselves to those 
 of the precinct of the Savoy ; and this chapel being consequently used as their parish chiu-ch 
 it acquired the name of St. Mary-le-Savoy. 
 
 This structure being buUt of. squared stone, in the Gothic style, has an aspect of great 
 antiquity. Contrary to the general construction of. religious edifices, its greatest length is 
 north and south, and the altar is placed at the north end. The roof is remarkably fine, 
 being adorned with carved figures of the Holy Lamb, shields of arms, and other decorations, 
 within elegant circular compartments. It was completely repaired in the year 1721, at the 
 expense of His Majesty King George I., who also inclosed the buiial-ground with a wall ; 
 since which it has been again repaired and beautified. There are many ancient monu- 
 ments in this chapel,, some of which are very magnificent. , ■ 
 
 This precint is extra-parochial, and the right of presentation to the chapel is in the lord 
 nigh-treasurer, or the commissioners for executing that office. 
 
 Drapers' HAll, Throgmorton Street. 
 
 On the north side of Throgmorton Street is Draper's Hall. This is a spacious and 
 noble edifice, buUt upon the niins of a palace erected on that spot by Thomas Cromwell, 
 earl of Essex, in the reign of King Henry VIII., on the site of several tenements belonging 
 to the priory of St. Augustine, which he purchased at its suppression- But, the garden be- 
 longing to the edifice not being of sufficien{ extent to gratify his inordinate ambition, he, in 
 an arbitrary manner, without the consent of either landlord or tenant, caused the fences gf 
 the neighbouring gardens to be removed twenty-two feet northward, and, having added the 
 ground to his own garden, inclosed it with a high brick wall. 
 
 Among the sufierers was Stow's father, who had a garden adjoining to Cromwell's, with a 
 Jiouse standing close to the south paling of it. This house was raised fi'om the ground,*" 
 and, being placed on rollers, was removed back to that distance without the knowledge of 
 the owner, who could not obtain satisfaction for the injury, so greatly was the power of this 
 oppressor dreaded. • 
 
 This noble mansion being forfeited to the crown, by his attainder and execution for high 
 treason, it was purchased by the company of Drapers, who converted it into a hall for 
 transacting the business of their corporation ; and, that building being destroyed by the fire 
 of London, the Company built the present hall, which is a most elegant building, composing 
 the four sides of a quadrangle, each of which is elevated on columns, and adorned with 
 arches formed in a piazza round a square court ; and between each arch is a shield, mant- 
 ling and other fi:et-work. On the east side is the common hall, the ascent to which is by a 
 grand staircase, and within, it is adorned vtith a stately screen and fine wainscot. 
 
ijrg - LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Stationers' Haj.l, Stationers' Hall Court. 
 
 On the north side ofLudgate Hill, in Stationers' Court, is Stationers' Hall. Thisbqilding 
 stands on the site of a mansion which anciently belonged to the dukes of. Bretagne ; after 
 which it was possessed by the earls of Pembroke, and, in Queen Elizabeth's time, by Henry 
 lord Abergavenny. Finally, it belonged to the Stationers' Company, who rebuilt it of wood, 
 and made it their Hall. This building, however, shared in the common calamity of 1666, 
 and was succeeded by the present brick edifice, which was afterwards newly fronted with 
 stone. It is a spacious, convenient building, enlightened by a single series of windows, 
 over each of which is placed a neat medallion. The entrance is from a small paved court, 
 enclosed with a dwarf wall, suiToounted by an iron railing. Beneath the Hall, and at the 
 north end of it, are warehouses for the Company's stock. 
 
 Clothworkers' Hall, Mincing Lane. 
 
 On the north side of Tower Street is' Mincing Lane, ancieiitly called Mincheon Lane, 
 which is handsomely built, and well inhabited ; on the east side of it, near the north 
 end, stands Clothworkers' Hall, a neat brick building, with fluted columns of the same, 
 having Corinthian capitals of stone. The Hall is a lofty room, adorned with wainscot to 
 the ceiling, which is of curious fret-work. The screen at the south end is of oak; with 
 foiu: pilasters, their entablatures and compass pediment of the Corinthian order, enriched 
 with the arms of the Company and palm branches. The west end is adorned with the 
 figures of king James and king Charles I., richly carved, as large as life, in their robes, 
 with regalia, all gilt and highly finished. At this end of the hall is a spacious window of 
 stained glass, on which are the king's arms, as also those of Sir John Robinson, Bart., 
 his majesty's lieutenant of tlie Tower of London, lord mayor of the city in the year 1663, 
 and president of the Artillery Company. 
 
 Goldsmiths' Hall, Foster Lane. 
 
 At the north-east comer of Foster Lane stands the hall belonging to the Company of 
 Goldsmiths. This spacious building supplies the place of one which was originally erected 
 by Drew Berentin, about the year 1407, but was destroyed by the fire of London. It is an 
 irregular structure, built with brick, and the corners WTOught in rustic of stone. The door is 
 large, arched, and decorated with Doric columns, which support a pediment of the arched 
 kind, but open for a shield, in which are the arms of the . Company. The hall room is 
 spacious, and both that and the other rooms are well enlightened. It is however proposed 
 to pull down and rebuild it, as part of the improvements connected Mith the neighbourhood 
 of the New Post Office. 
 

 avDd'by'W'Wallifl 
 
 S HA3LIL, MEHCIM© ]LAHE. 
 
 itKivcd byf ft "\..iUie. 
 
 (S®ILJa)SMET3Hr'^ MAILE., FCD)SirEJR iLAMEa 
 
 of -QiG MusGs.Pmibur^ SquarQ, London, MarcliJ3,1830. 
 
I>a™.)i7 TW E Shepheri 
 
 EngTHvei Vy 
 
 MIBIDILIE SE^ MOS3PI[TA3L. . 
 
 DranL V "^^^ ^ Shephnd. 
 
 'Srttfcayod.'by J.SaMM. 
 
 ]P]EKrS][OM3Em''S JHAILXi. CHAMTEH HOUSE. 
 
 Jones & C? Teiitpls oT (he MTj^es.Hns'biirj Square, london.. Se^^ 25 3S30 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 77 
 
 ' Middlesex Hospital. 
 
 This hospital was instituted in the year 1745, for the relief of the indigent, sick, and 
 lame, at which time, and for several years after, it was carried on in two convenient houses 
 adjoining to each other, in Windmill Street, Tottenham Court Road. The benefactions of 
 the public having greatly increased, the governors, in 1747, extended their plan to the relief 
 of pregnant wives of the industrious poor ; when the great increase of patients soon. obliged 
 them to think of enlarging their edifice as weU. as their plan, and, by the benevolence of the 
 contributors, they were enabled, in 1755,. to erect the present building, which at that time 
 was situated in the open fields. 
 
 That part of the institution which relates to the admission of pregnant women was 
 altered about fifteen years ago, in consequence of an ofier made by an imknown person, 
 through the medium of a respectable surgeon, to advance ^3000, and to settle £300 per 
 annum on the hospital, provided the governors would appropriate a ward for the reception 
 and cure of cancerous diseases. Such an offer was not to be rejected, and the obstacle to 
 its adoption was the unwillingness of the governors to nan-ow the extent of their charity, to 
 the exclusion of some part of those who were already within its scope. It being, however, 
 suggested that delivering married women at home would, in most cases, be a more effectual 
 and beneficial relief to them than obliging them to pass the period of their confinement in 
 an hospital, secluded fi-om their families, it was determined to appropriate the lying-in ward 
 to the desired purpose, and to provide those who might want it with obstetrical assistance, 
 medicine, and nurses, at their own habitations, by which means the managers of this charity 
 were enabled to accept the benevolent offer ; and since that period the upper part of the 
 hospital has been devoted solely to the cure of that disease. 
 
 Though this building is exceeding plain, yet it has a very decent appearance, and is ac- 
 commodated with every convenience to answer the charitable purposes for which it was 
 erected. 
 
 Charter House. 
 
 This charitable foundation was instituted for the maintenance of a master, a preacher, a 
 head schoolmaster, a second master, and eighty pensioners, consisting of decayed gentlemen, 
 merchants, or others, reduced by misfortunes, who are provided with handsome apartments, 
 and all the necessaries of life, except clothes ; instead of which, each of them is allowed a 
 cloak and fourteen pounds per annum. There are also forty-four boys supported in the 
 house, where they have good- lodgings, and are instructed in classical learning. From among 
 these, are chosen twenty-nine students at the Universities, who are each allowed twenty 
 pounds per annimi,-for eight years. Others, who are judged more fit for trades, are put out 
 apprentices, and the sum of forty pounds is given with each of them. As a farther encou- 
 ragement to the scholars brought up in this foundation, there are nine ecclesiastical prefer- 
 
78 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 ments in the patronage of the governors, who, according to the constitution of the charity, 
 are to confer them upon those who receive their education in that school. The pensioners 
 and scholars are taken in at the recommendation of the governors, who appoint in rotation. 
 The Charter House is situated between St. John's Street on the west, Goswell Street on 
 the east. Long Lane on the south, and Wilderness Row on the north. There is scarcely 
 any vestige of the conventual building, which is said to have stood where the garden now 
 is. The present buildings were erected by the Duke of Norfolk ; they are very irregulaij 
 and have little to recommend them but their convenience and situation. The rooms are 
 well disposed, and the court within, though small, is very neat. In one comer of this court 
 is a handsome chapel, in which, among others, is a very superb monument, erected to the 
 memory of Mr. Thomas Sutton, the founder ; on which is his effigy,, habited in a gown, 
 and in a recumbent posture. On each side is a man in aimomr, standing upright, and 
 above, a preacher represented as addressing a fiill congregation. In the front of these build- 
 ings is a very handsome square, and behind,- a large garden, which at once contributes to the 
 health and to the pleasure of those who receive the benefit of so valuable a foundation. 
 
 Middle Temple. 
 
 The entrance into the Middle Temple, from Fleet Street, is by a very handsome gate, 
 which was built in the style of Inigo Jones, in the year 1684. The front of it, though 
 narrow, is graceful : it is built of brick, with four large stone pUasters of the Ionic order 
 and a handsome pediment. In a course of stone, between the first and second stoiy, is cut 
 the following inscription: — Surrexit impensis societat. Med. Templi, M.DC.LXxxiv., and 
 beneath it, just over the gate, is the figure of a Holy Lamb. 
 
 The great hall belonging to the Middle Temple is very spacious and beautrfrd, and is 
 esteemed one of the finest halls in the kingdom. It was originally buUt in the reign of 
 Edward III., but tlie present edifice was erected in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,, in the 
 year 1572. It is ornamented with paintings by Sir James ThomhiU, and contains full- 
 length portraits of those pillars of the law — Littleton and his able but insolent commentator 
 Coke. 
 
 In the treasury chamber of the Middle Temple is preserved a great quantity of armow: 
 which belonged to the Knights' Templars, consisting of helmets, breast and back pieces, a 
 halbard, and two very beautiful shields, with iron spikes in tlieir centres, of the length of 
 sbc inches, and each about twenty pounds vveight. They are curiously engraved, aad one 
 of them richly inlaid with gold ; the insides are lined with leather stufied, and the edges are 
 adorned with silk fringe. 
 
 In Garden Court) in the Middle Temple, is a libraiy founded by the will of Robert 
 Ashley, Esq., in the year 1641, who bequeathed his own library for that purpose, and £300 
 to be laid out in a piuchase, for the maintenance of a librarian, who must be a student of 
 the society, arid be elected into that office by the benchers. 
 
"Dcawnlry Tio. H.,Slinpherd. 
 FL.79. 
 
 n::ra-.ed. "bj J "hi iDcHhff, 
 
 MlBIDJLiIE TEMFIjIE HALIL. 
 
 Urasm bj Tto. It. Siephfird 
 
 ftved. "bv" J "HV'^T'li'Pf 
 
 CL 
 
 HA]L]L. FLEIET STBJSET. 
 
Ifcawn "ty Tho. H, Shepherd-. 
 
 n 3s. 
 
 Drawn "bj Tjao.H.Shffphnrd 
 
 (CHOSBir MAlLilLj, BICSM©lPS©ATffi STmiBET. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 79 
 
 The Inner Temple is situated to the east of the Middle Temple, and has a cloister, a large 
 garden, and more spacious walks than the other. In this division there is also a handsome 
 hall. 
 
 The chief officer belonging to each of these societies is a treasurer, who is annually 
 elected from among the benchers or senior members, and whose office is to admit students 
 and to receive and pay all cash belonging to the society. Both the Temples, however, are 
 under one master, who, since the reign of Henry VIII., has been a divine, and constituted 
 by letters patent from the crown, without any other induction. 
 
 Clifford's Inn. 
 
 East from Chancery Lane, in Fleet Street, is Cliffi)rd's Inn, which is so called from having 
 been the city residence of the family of the Clifford's ; it was demised, in the year 1.345, by 
 Isabel, vddow of Robert de Cliffi^rd, to certain students of the law ; since which time it 
 has continued to be inhabited by gentlemen of that profession. The Gothic hall is castel- 
 lated at the top, and has a beautiftil little clock tmTet in the centre of the roof. The body 
 is enlightened by three spacious windows, vnth pointed arches. 
 
 It is an inn of chancery, and an appendage to the Middle Temple; but its present 
 occupiers are chiefly attornies and officers of the Marshalsea Court. 
 
 Church of St. Lawrence, Jewry, King Street. 
 
 At the south-west comer of GuildhaE Yard is the parish church of St. Lavrrence, 
 Jewry, which runs westw£u:d, on the north side of Cateaton Street. It is dedicated to 
 Lawrence, a Spanish saint, bom at Huesca, in the kingdom of Arragon; who, after having 
 undergone the most grievous tortures, in the persecution under Valerian the emperor, was 
 cruelly broiled alive upon a gridiron, with a slow fire,, till he died, for his strict adlierence 
 to Christianity ; and the additional epithet of Jewry, from its situation among the Jews, 
 was conferred upon it, to distinguish it from the church of St. Lawrence, Pounteney, now 
 demolished. 
 
 This church, which was anciently a rectory, being given by Hugo de Wickenbroke to 
 Baliol College, in Oxford, anno 1294, the rectory ceased ; wherefore Richard, Bishop of 
 London, converted it into a vicarage, the patronage of which still continues in the master 
 and scholars of that coUege. 
 
 The old church being destroyed by the fire in 1666, it was rebuilt, at the expense of the 
 parishioners, assisted by a very liberal benefaction from Sir John Langham, and the pai-ish 
 of St. Mary Magdalen, Milk Street, was annexed to it. 
 
 The present structure is eighty-one feet long, sixty-eight feet broad, forty feet high to the 
 roofj and the altitude of the steeple is 130 feet. The body is enlightened' by two series of 
 vrindows, the lower ones large and uniform, and the upper small. At the 6ast end is a 
 pediment^ with niches, supported by Corinthian colunms. The lower, which is lofty, is ter- 
 
80 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 miiiated by a balustrade, with plain pinnacles ; and within this balustrade rises a Mnd of 
 lantern, which supports the base of the spire. 
 
 Crosby Hall. 
 
 On the east side of Bishopsgate Street is Crosby Square, so called from Sir John Crosby, 
 Knt., who built a large house here in 1466. This house was the city residence of Richard, 
 Duke of Gloucester, while the measures which eventually secured him the crown were 
 concerting. Part of this house still remains, on the north side of the entrance into the 
 square, which is chiefly built on the garden ground that belonged to the house. The part im- 
 properly called Richard III.'s Chapel is still very entire. It is a beautifiil Gothic building, 
 with a bow window at one end ; the roof, which is of timber, elegantly carved, is very 
 worthy of admiration. This building is now the residence of a packer. 
 
 The King's Weigh-House. 
 
 The gi'ound on which the church of St. Andrew Hubbard, destroyed by the great fire, 
 formerly stood, with the church yard, in Little Eastcheap, between Botolph Lane and Love 
 Lane, and also the site of the parsonage house, were sold to the City of London, for public 
 uses : some of the purchase money was paid to the parish of St. Mary at Hill, towards the 
 repairs of that church, and the remainder was appropriated to making a provision for the 
 rector and his successors, in lieu of the parsonage house. On one part of the ground was 
 erected the King's Weigh-House, which before stood on ComhUl. The original intent of this 
 Weigh-House was, to prevent frauds in the weight of merchandize brought from beyond 
 sea. It was under the government of a master and four master porters, with labouring 
 porters under them, who used to have carts and horses to fetch the merchants' goods to the 
 beam, and to carry them back ; bu t little has been done in this oflice of late years, as a 
 compulsive power is wanting to oblige merchants to have their goods weighed. 
 
 Coal Exchange. 
 
 This building is situated in Thames Street, nearly opposite to Billingsgate, and is a neat 
 and very convenient structure, for the use of dealers in the important article of coals, con- 
 sisting of a very handsome front and quadrangle behind, where every branch of the coal 
 business is transacted. . 
 
 Church of St. Mary, Aldermary. 
 
 Near the middle of Bow Lane, on the east side, is the parochial church of St.' Mary 
 Aldermary. This church, which is a rectory, owes its name to its dedication to the Virgin 
 Maiy ; and the additional epithet of Aldermary, to Older, or Elder Mary, from its being 
 
i>a:wii "try" IlioS iJurpherd 
 n /J 
 
 ST. MARY. AXDEKMIARY. 
 
 Eaigravea-'b|y'W. Watkias. 
 
 ST. MICHAEL'S, CORNHILL. 
 
 
 E-ngcavod "by ViT iaJltu. 
 
 , ST. 
 
 ■ — , - -jf -the Muses FmsTrarrSqiiare. loiidaiif July 21.1630. 
 
Fl 83. 
 
 Ssgrs.Te^'bj' S. J^cm 
 
 TME KIHG^S WIEHiS-M M^TUSIS^ jLSTTILIE 3EA3T CHIEAB. 
 
 
 En^ewed- "bj K Acoii 
 
 COA-X, ESCCHAMGB , TMAM'jSS S'rm]S:ET. 
 
LONDON TN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY; 81 
 
 the oldest church in this city dedicated to the said virgin. It is one of the peculiars be- 
 longing to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and was founded before the conquest, under the 
 Saxon kings. 
 
 In the year 1510 Sir Henry Keble, lord mayor of London, bequeathed £1000 towards 
 rebuilding this church. And, in 1626, William Rodoway gave towards the building of the 
 steeple, then greatly decayed, the sum of dESOOO ; and Richard Pierson, about the same 
 year, gave 200 marks towards the same works, with condition that this steeple, thus to be 
 buUt, should follow its ancient pattern, and go forward and be finished according to the 
 foundation of it laid before by Sir Henry Keble ; which, within three years after, was so 
 finished, that, notwithstanding the body of the church was burnt in the fire of 1666, the 
 steeple remained firm and good. That part of it which was consumed was afterwards 
 rebuilt in its present form by the munificence of Henry Rogers, Esq., as appears by a Latin 
 inscription over the west door of the church. 
 
 This Gothic edifice is very spacious, it being 100 feet in length and sixty-three in 
 breadth ; the height of the roof is forty-five feet, and that of the steeple 135. The body 
 is enlightened by a single series of large Gothic windows. The wall has weU-contrived 
 buttresses and battlements ; these buttresses run up pUaster fashion, in two stages, not 
 projecting in the old manner ftom the body of the building. The tower, which is full of 
 ornaments, consists of five stages, each of which, except the lowest, has one Gothic 
 window ; and the pinnacles, which are properly so many turrets, are continued at each 
 corner down to the ground, divided into stages as the body of the tower, and cabled with 
 small pillars bound round it, with a kind of arched work, and subdivisions between. 
 
 Chuech of St. Michael, Cornhill. 
 
 This church, standing on the south side of Cornhill, is a rectory, and owes its name to its 
 dedication to St. Michael, the Archangel, and its situation. 
 
 The patronage of it appears to have been anciently in the abbot and convent of 
 Eversham, erroneously called Coversham, who, in the year 1133, gi-anted the same to 
 Sparling, a priest, with aU the lands thereunto belonging, except those held by Orgar le 
 Proud, at the rent of 2s. a year ; in consideration of which grant, the said Sparling cove- 
 vanted and agreed, not only to pay annually, to the abbot and canons, the sum of 13s. 4rf., 
 but likewise to supply the house of the said abbot (when in London) with fire, water, 
 and salt. 
 
 Some time afterwards, the rectory reverted to the convent, and they continued patrons of 
 it until the year 1503, when, by a deed bearing date December 3, they convejed the 
 advowson to the Drapers' Company, in consideration of a perpetual annuity of £5. 6s. 8d., 
 in addition to an ancient pension of 6s, 8d. annually, paid to the abbot and canons, out 
 of the said church ; since which time, the patronage has continued to be in the Drapers' 
 Company. 
 
82 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 The old church heing destroyed by the fire of London, in 1666, the present Gothic 
 structure ai'ose in its stead ; the body of which is seventy feet long, sixty broad, thirty-five 
 in height, and 130 feet to the top of the tower. The lower part of the tower occupies the 
 centre of the church ; and, on each side, there is a regular extent of building. The prin- 
 ipal door opens in the lower stage of the tower, which rises with angulated corners fi:om 
 the ground, forming a kind of base, terminated at the height of the body of the church. 
 The second stage, which is plain and lofty, has two tall windows, one over the other, 
 properly shaped for the style of the building : this is terminated with a truly Gothic cornice. 
 The third stage is exactly in the form of the two others, only they are plain and this is 
 covered with ornaments; the angulated corners are fluted, and terminated by cherubs' 
 heads, under a cornice ; the plain face, between, has four windows, in two series. Above 
 the cornice, over the uppermost of these windows,- mns a battlement, on the plain faces of 
 the tower, and fi"om the corners are carried up four beautiful fluted turrets, cased, a part of 
 their height, with Doric turrets; these terminate in pinnacle heads, from within which rises 
 a spire at each corner, crowned with a vane. The tower contains an excellent ring of 
 bells, remarkable for their melody. 
 
 Church of St. Olave Jewry, Old Jewry. 
 
 On the west side of Old Jewry stands the parish church of St. Olave Jevsrry, of very 
 ancient foundation, and originally called Olave Upwell, fi'om its being dedicated to the 
 saint of that name, and, probably, firom a well under the east end, where, at this time, and 
 for many years past, has stood a pump for the use of the public ; but this name afterwards 
 gave way to that of Jewry, owing to the great number of Jews that took up their residence 
 in this neighbourhood. 
 
 This palish was a rectory, in the gift of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, till about the 
 year 1181, when it was transferred by them, with the chapel of St. Stephen, Coleman Street 
 to the prior and convent of Butley, in Sufiblk, and became a vicarage. At the suppression 
 of that convent, the impropriation was forfeited to the crown, in whom it has continued to 
 the present time. When the old church was burned down, in 1666, the parish of St. 
 Martin, Ironmonger Lane, was annexed to it ; the patronage of which is also in the 
 crown. 
 
 The present structure was erected soon after the fire of London, and is built partly of 
 brick, and partly of stone. It is seventy-eight feet long, twenty-four feet broad, thirty-six 
 feet high to the roof, and eighty-eight feet high to the top of the tower and pinnacles. The 
 door is of the Doric order, well proportioned, and covered with an arched pediment. The 
 tower is very plain, on the upper part of which rises a cornice, supported by scrolls, and 
 upon this a plain attic course. On the pillars, at the comers, are placed the pinnacles 
 upon balls ; and each pinnacle is tenninated at the top by a ball. The body of the church 
 is well enlightened, the floor is paved with Perbeck, and the walls ai'e wainscoted. The 
 
32 
 
 PICCABILIX, FIROM (C©TEWTIST STIRIEET. 
 
 Engraved hy T T?i- «r 
 
 MKBHDICK mow JB):(Q)1L.]B®RH. 
 Jones fe C? Tenipla of tbe Muacji finsbuiy S()i)ajfe.4i«irt»^Ja]L.l,lB'^tJ 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUKY. 83 
 
 pulpitis enriched with carvings of cherubim; the floor of the altai-, on which the com- 
 munion-table stands, is paved with black and white marble, and in the front of the altar are 
 the king's arms. 
 
 Piccadilly, from Cotentry Street. 
 
 The fine and very interesting street-view here presented, by our artist, forms one of 
 the peculiar characteristics of the metropolis, and therefore determined him to make it the 
 subject of an engraving. 
 
 Piccadilly appears to have taken its name originally from a gaming-house for the nobility. 
 Lord Clarendon, in his History of the Rebellion, describes it as " a place called Pickadilly 
 (which was a fair house for entertainment, and gaming, with handsome gravel walks, with 
 shade, and an upper and lower bowling-green, whither very many of the nobility, and gentry 
 of the best quality, resorted, both for exercise and conversation.)" This was- in the year 
 1640 : the street was completed in the year 1642, as far as the present Berkeley Street. 
 The first good house built in it was Burlington House ; the site of which was chosen by 
 its noble founder, " because he was certain no one would build beyond him." It is on the 
 north side of the streel, and fenced in with a brick wall, about 220 feet in length, in which 
 are three gates for the admission of carriages. The front of the house is of stone, and is 
 remarkable for the beauty of the design and workmanship. It has two wings, joined by a 
 circular colonnade, of the Doric order. The front was built by the father of the late Earl 
 of Burlington, and is more modern than the house. The apartments are in fine taste, and 
 the stair-case painted with great spirit, by Seb. Ricci. 
 
 Middle Row, Holbokn. 
 
 Second to the Strand, if not equal to it, Holbom may be considered one of the great 
 leading thoroughfares, running from east to west of the metropolis. The part here exhibited 
 is perhaps the widest and best of the whole line of street, and fi'om its proximity to the 
 principal Inns of Court, as well as general thoroughfare, displays an extraordinary scene of 
 activity and traffic. 
 
 Holborn was first paved in 1417, as appears from an order in the Fcedera, Vol. IX. p. 447, 
 in which king Henry V., taking notice " that the high-way named Holbom, in London, 
 was so deep and miry that many perils and hazards were thereby occasioned, as well to the 
 king's carriages passing that way, as to those of his subjects ; he therefore ordaiaed two 
 vessels, each of twenty tons burthen, to be employed at his expense, for bringing stones 
 for paving and mending the same." This shows the gradual improvement of London's 
 suburbs. 
 
84 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Gray's Inn Hall, Chapel, and Library. 
 
 Grays Inn occupies the site of the Mansion House of the ancient manor of Portpool, 
 one of the Prehends belonging to St. Paul's Cathedral, which, in the year 151 5, becoming 
 the residence of the- noble ^family of Gray, of Wilton, received the name of Gray's Inn, 
 and, in the reign of Edward III., was demised to certain students of the law, by that name. 
 Some time after this, the prior and monks of Shene obtained a licence to purchase the 
 manor of Portpool, by whom the Mansion House and gardens were again demised to the 
 students, at an annual rent of £6. 13s. 4d. ; and this grant remained in force until the 
 general suppression of the monasteries. In the year 1541, this Inn was granted by Henry 
 VIII. to the students, and theur successors, in fee farm. 
 
 The principal entrance to this Inn is in Holbom, though the buildings are situated at 
 some distance from the street. There is another entrance to it in Gray's Inn Lane ; part 
 of the west side of which is occupied by the back of the buildings, and the wall that 
 encloses the gardens. The Inn consists of several well-built courts, particularly Holbom 
 Court and Gray's Inn square ; the latter of which was built in ] 687. The hall, which is 
 used for the commons of the society, is large and commodious ; but ifte chapel is too small : 
 it is a Gothic* structure, and is of much greater antiquity than any other part of the buUd- 
 ing ; it being the old chapel belonging to the manor-house. Here is an exceedingly good 
 library, well furnished with books for the use of the students ; but the chief ornament of 
 this Inn is the spacious garden behind it, which consists of gravel walks between lofty trees, 
 grass-plats, agreeable slopes, and a. long terrace, with a portico at each end. It is open to 
 the public in the summer season. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn Hall, Chapel, and Chancery Court. 
 
 Lincoln's Inn is situated to the south of Holbom, and on the west side of Chancery 
 Lane; being the spot where formerly stood the house of the bishop of Chichester 
 as also that of the Black Friars; the latter "erected about the year 1222, and the 
 foi-mer about 1226 ; but both of them coming to Hemy Lacey, earl of Lincoln, he pulled 
 them down, and in their stead erected a stately mansion for his city residence ; into which 
 it is said, that, some time before his death, in 1310, he introduced the study of the law. 
 
 This mansion afterwards reverted to the bishopric of Chichester, and was devised by 
 Robert Sherboura, bishop of that see, to Mr. William Syliard, a student there, for a term of 
 years ; at the expiration of which. Dr. Richard Sampson, his successor, in tlie year 1536, 
 passed the inheritance thereof to the said Syliard, and Eustace, his brother ; the latter of 
 whom, in 1579, in consideration of the sum of ^£500, conveyed the house and gardens, in 
 fee, to Richard Kingsmill, and the rest of the benchers. 
 
Di-HynilTT The. H.. Sbephttci. 
 
 Iffl^avBi'bY'W. ■WaQoca- 
 
 GMAY'S EHH iSAJLIL, CiHAPElL, AMD LIIBM.AH.Y. 
 
 T>ra.-wn "by Tho . H.'Shepltera 
 n 53 
 
 i!a^tavoa"by"V; Wat 
 
 ILIIHC©IL.H'§ I[.^W HAIM^, CMAFEIL^AMB CJPIAHCERT €©URT„ 
 
 p]e of , the MaSes Fmstrary Sq^aai^e.London^ April 17.1830. 
 
a "by Tho.H Stoplic. 
 
 CHRIST CHURCH, SPITAiFIELB S. 
 
 ST DtltTS TAN'S IN THE EAST 
 
 Bi'awi *by Tlio.H Shephord 
 
 inawreatyS. !<««?■ 
 
 COM.KIHIIIJLIL, AJjriD) ILOMBAmi© STlSllKIETr, FIROBII TIKE ff>OiaiL,TKT. 
 
 Ill' Lhii Miis.-->! ,,Vn'i-,.i,,,„„ o „ rlL_j 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 85 
 
 This Inn principally consists of three rows of large and uniform buildings, forming three 
 sides of a square, most of them occupied by gentlemen of the society. The north side of 
 the square lies open to the gardens, which are very spacious, and adorned with gravel walks, 
 graiss-plats, rows of trees, and a very long teiTace walk, which is so elevated as to command 
 a iine prospect of- Lincoln's Inn Fields. In the centre of the square is a neat fluted Corin- 
 thian column, in a small bason, surrounded wdth iron rails. This column supports a 
 handsome sun-dial, which has four aides, and on the corners of the pedestal are four naked 
 /boys, intended to spout water out of Triton shells ; but this has been long out of repair. 
 
 Behind the north-east side of the square are a good hall and chapel ; the latter of which 
 ■was built by Inigo Jones, about the year 1622, on pillars, with an ambulatory, or walk, 
 underneath, paved vnth broad, stones, and used as a place of interment for the benchers. 
 ■The outside of the chapel is a very indifferent specimen of Gothic architecture, and the 
 windows are painted vdth the figiures at full length of the principal personages mentioned 
 in the Scriptures. On the twelve windows, on the north side, are Abraham, Moses, EU, 
 David, and the prophets Daniel, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, Amos, and Zachariah, with John 
 the Baptist, and St. Paul ; and on the south side are the rest of the aposties. Under these 
 figures are the arms of a great number of gentlemen belonging to this society. 
 
 The hall is an extremely fine room, and is used not only for the commons of the society, 
 but for sittings, out of term, before the lord Chancellor. At the upper end of it is Hogarth's 
 picture of St. Paul before Agrippa and Festus. 
 
 Between the chapel and Chancery Lane are several ranges of chambers, called the Old 
 Buildings. Here is a very good library, which consists of a good collection of books 
 in most languages, and a great number of manuscripts, of a parliamentary, judicial, legal, 
 and public nature, the greatest part of which were bequeathed by lord Hale, with a strict 
 injunction that no part of them should be printed. 
 
 The gate to Lincoln's Inn, from the west side of Chancery Lane, is of brick, and not im- 
 deserving of notice. It was built by Sir Thomas Level, once a member of this inn and 
 afterwards treasurer of the household to Henry VII. 
 
 On the east side of the gardens is a new range of buildings, called the Stone Buildings, 
 fi-om having stone fi'onts. When these were erected, a plan was in agitation for rebuilding 
 the' whole inn, in the same style of elegant simplicity ; but this design has been long laid 
 aside. 
 
 Christ Church, Spitalfields. 
 
 Spitalfields derives its name fi^om having been built upon the fields and grounds belonging 
 to St. Mary's, Spital, which stood on the east side of Bishopsgate Sb'eet. When, by the 
 revocation of , the edict' of Nantes, Louis XIV. compelled his protestant subjects to fly to 
 foreign lands for shelter and protection, a considerable number of them sought refuge in. 
 this country ; the greater part of whom settled on this spot, and established here the manu- 
 facture of silk in all its branches ; and [the neighbourhood is still, in a gi-eat measure, 
 peopled by their descendants 
 
 Z 
 
86 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Spitalfields was, originally, a hamlet belonging to the parish of St. Dunstan, Stepney ; 
 but, from the great increase of inhabitants, it was, in the year 1723, made a distinct parish; 
 and the church is one of the fifty ordered to be built by act of parliament. 
 
 This building is situated on the south side of Church Street ; it was begun in 1723, 
 and finished in 1729 ; and, from being dedicated to our Saviour, is called Christ church, 
 Middlesex. 
 
 It is a very handsome edifice, built of stone, with a very high steeple, in which is a fine 
 ling of bells. The body of the church is solid and well-proportioned. It is 111 feet in 
 length, and eighty -seven in breadth ; the height of the roof is forty-one feet, and that of the 
 steeple 234 feet. It is ornamented with a Doric portico, to which there is a handsome 
 ascent by a flight of steps; and upon these the Doric order arises, supported on pedestals. 
 The tower, over these, rises with arched windows and niches, and, on its diminishiag for the. 
 steeple, is supported by the heads of the under corners, which form a kind of buttresses :' 
 from this part rises the base of the spire, with an arcade ; its comers are, in the same 
 manner, supported with a kind of pyramidal buttresses, ending in a point ; and the spire, in 
 which are three series of square windows, crowned with pediments, is terminated by a vase 
 and vane. 
 
 This church is made a rectory, but is not to be held in commendam ; and the patronage, 
 like that of its mother church, is in the Principal and Scholars of King's Hail and Brazen- 
 nose College, Oxford. 
 
 At the west end of the church is a neat brick building, in which are two charity schools ; 
 the one for girls, the other for boys, erected in 1782, and supported by volimtary 
 contributions. 
 
 Church of St. Dunstan in the East. 
 
 At the west end of Thames Street, on the north side, is Idol Lane, between which and 
 St. Dunstan's HUl stands the beautiful church of St Dunstan in the East This church is 
 dedicated to St. Dunstan, archbishop of Canterbury ; and the addition of the East is given 
 to distinguish it from St. Dunstan in Fleet Street. 
 
 It sufiered greatly by the fire of London, in 1666 ; the body of the church was repaired 
 in a short time, though the steeple was not erected till about 1678. It is buUt in the style 
 called modern Gothic, eighty-seven feet in length, sixty-thi-ee in "breadth, and thirty-three in 
 height, to the roof: the steeple, which is constructed in the same style as the body of the 
 church, is 125 feet high. The tower is light, supported by out works at the angles, and 
 divided into three stages, terminating at the corners by four handsome pinnacles, in the 
 midst of which rises the spire, on the crowns of four pointed arches ; a bold attempt in 
 architecture, and one proof, among many, of the great geometiical skill of Su- Christopher 
 Wren, who planned and built this elegant tower. 
 
 The patronage of this rectory was anciently in the prior and canons of Canterbury, who 
 in the year 1 365, granted the same to Simon Islip, thek archbishop, and his successors, in 
 
Ih-ffliii ty TIioJH: Shepherd 
 
 n.6s 
 
 En^aveaiTyJ, Henihall Dritwn "byTho H.Shephnca 
 
 n 36 
 ST JAMES'S rT.-FP-K"F-NrWF.T.T. ST MARGAKET PATTETsTS, ROOJ) EAUE 
 
 Eaftared "by J- 'BesASL 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 87 
 
 whom it still remains. It is one of the thirteen peculiars in this city, belonging to the- 
 archi-episcopal see of Canterbury. 
 
 COKNHILL AND LOMBARD SxRKET, FROM THE POULTRY. 
 
 Another very picturesque street view is here presented to the eye of the passenger, by a 
 combination of architectural splendour, in the Tower of the Royal Exchange, the beautiful 
 Tower of St. Michael, Comliill, and numerous church spires in the sun-ounding neighbour- 
 hood; heightened by other buildings, gay shops, and an ever-moving throng of carriages 
 and pedestrians. Coimhill was so called from its being in ancient times a market for. com. 
 The Ward is bounded on the east by Bishopsgate Ward, on the north by Broad Street 
 Ward, on the west by Cheap Ward, and on the south by Langboum Ward. 
 
 Its extent is very small ; for, beginning at the south-east comer of the church of St. 
 Martin Outwich, it winds through several courts and alleys, to the western extremity of 
 Comhill, whence^ it returns, in as tortuous a direction, to St. Peter's AUey, in Gracechurch 
 Street, and then, turning northward, it extends about fifty feet into Bishopsgate Street, 
 and afterwards passes, by the east side of Merchant Taylors' Hall, to its commencement at 
 the church. 
 
 This Ward is divided into four precincts, and is governed by an alderman, six common 
 council-men, four constables, sixteen inquest men, and a beadle. The principal street in 
 this Ward is very spacious, and consists of large houses, well inhabited. The uniformity 
 of appearance, in most of these buildings, arises from the many fires which have happened 
 on both sides of this street, whereby the old houses were destroyed, and those erected in 
 their Stead being all in a more modem style. 
 
 Lombard Street is so called from having been the residence of the Lombards, the great 
 moneyrlenders of ancient times, and who came originally from the Italian republics of 
 Genoa, Liicca, Florence, and Venice. Owing to the abuses committed by this.body of men, 
 queen Elizabeth compelled them to quit the country. Lombard Street after having been 
 long a kind of exchange, became, as it still continues to be, the residence of bankers of 
 eminence. 
 
 Church of St. James Clerkenwell. 
 
 The parish church of St. James Clerkenwell is situated on the north side of Clerken well- 
 green. Oh the spot where this church stands, was anciently a priory, founded by Jordan 
 Briset, a,wealthy baron, who, about the year HOO, ga,ve to his chaplain fourteen acres ot 
 land, in a field adjoining Clerk's or Clerkenwell, whereon he built a monastery; which was 
 no sooner erected, and dedicated to the honour of God and the'assumptibn of the Virgin Maiy, 
 than he placed therein a certain number of black nuns, of the order of St. Benedict; in whom, 
 and their successors,'it continued tilt it was. suppressed, by Henry VIIL, in the year 15-39, 
 
88 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Some time after the dissolution of the convent, the ground came to the inheritance of Sir 
 William Cavendish, who, being created duke of Newcastle, built a large brick mansion, on 
 the north-west side of the church, Avhich for many yeai's was called Newcastle House, the 
 site of which is now occupied by modem buildings. 
 
 The church belonging to the old priory not only served the nuns as a place of worship, 
 but also the neighbouring inhabitants, and was made parochial on the dissolution of the 
 nunnery, when it appears to have been dedicated to St. James the Less; for in the old records 
 it is styled " Ecclesia Beatse Maiise de fonte Clericorum." In 1623, the steeple of the 
 church being greatly decayed, a part of it fell down, whereupon the parish contracted with 
 a person to rebuild it. This person raised the new work upon the old foundation ; but, 
 before it was entirely finished, it fell down, and destroyed a part of the church, both of which 
 were, however, soon after rebuilt. 
 
 The old church was a very heavy structure, partly Gothic, which was the original form, 
 and partly Tuscan. It was taken' down in the year 1788, and the old materials sold for 
 £S25 ; after which the present edifice was, in pursuance of an act of parliament obtained 
 for that purpose, erected in its stead. It is a lofty brick edifice, strengthened at the comers 
 with rustic quoins of stone, and enlightened by two series of windows. The tower is of 
 stone, and erected upon the west end of the church, which is faced with stone, in order to 
 give it a corresponding appearance. The first two stages above the roof are square, and 
 contain the bells. Above these are two open octangular towers, with pilasters of the Doric 
 order at each corner, and fi-om the uppermost rises a ball and vane. 
 
 Church of St. Margaret Pattens, Rood Lane. 
 
 At the south-east angle of Rood Lane stands the parochial church of St. Margaret 
 Pattens. This church received its name fi-om its dedication to St. Margaret, virgin and 
 martyr ; and its situation, which, at the time of its foundation, was a lane, occupied only by 
 makers and dealers in pattens. This lane, however, was afterwards called Rood Lane, on 
 account of a rood, or cross, set up in the church-yard of St. Margaret, when the church was 
 pulled down to be rebuilt. This cross or rood was blessed in a particular manner, and pri- 
 vileged by the pope with many indulgencies, for the pardon of the sins of those who came 
 to pray before it, and to make their offerings towards the rebuilding of St. Margaret's church. 
 But the church being finished in the year 1538, soon after the Reformation, some people 
 unknowTi assembled, without noise, in the night of the 22nd of May, in that year, who broke 
 the rood to pieces, and demohshed the tabernacle in which it was erected. 
 
 The old church was destroyed in 1666, after whicli the present one was immediately 
 erected, and the parish of St Gabriel Fenchurch was united to it. It is built part of stone, 
 and part of brick, and consists of a plain body, sixty -six feet in length, fifty-two feet broad 
 and thirty-two feet in height. The windows are arched, with port-hole windows over them. 
 Above the front door is a large Doric window, with a cherub's head, and a large festoon over 
 it ; and, above these is a pediment, which stretches from the steeple to the end of the church. 
 
iteawn bj'lIhfl.Ii.Slieplierci. 
 IlfZ 
 
 BABBEE. S1JKGE03I'S KAXI. . ilOSKWELI. STKEET 
 
 FISHMONGER'S KALI. , THAME S STB.EET. 
 
 n.-M 
 
 tlnoYiTod "by J Grei^'. 
 
 (TKWmPJWAIWlfiirS HAHjX., BlS'-jrAlFll?' IiAKK. 
 
 JddooJ: CfTe-rapk of Iho tfuioii, Knsl)iirjSijUM8, ioadm, Mu.U,." 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 89 
 
 Th6 tower rises, square to a considerable height, and is terminated by four plain pinnacles 
 crowned with balls, and a balustrade, within which rises a very solid spire, terminated by a 
 ball and vane. 
 
 The original foundation of this church M'as in or before the year 1325 ; for the first 
 rector upon record is Hamo de Chyrch, presented by lady Margaret NevU, on the 14th of 
 June, in that year. And the patronage thereof remained in the family of the Nevils till the 
 year 1392, when it came to' Robert Rikeden, of Essex, and Margaret, his wife ; who, in 
 1408, -conveyed it, by agreement, to Richard Whittington and other .citizens of London, to- 
 gether with the advowson of St. Peter, Comhill, and the manor of Leadenhall, &c., which 
 agreement the said Whittington and others confirmed in 1411, to the mayor and commonalty 
 of London ; in whom the right of presentation has ever since remained. 
 
 Church of St. Giles, Cripplegatk. 
 
 This church is so called from being dedicated to a saint of that name, bom at Athens, 
 who was abbot of Nismes, in France. It was founded about the year 1090, by AJfune, 
 the first master of St. Bartholomew's Hospital. 
 
 The old church was destroyed.by fire, in the year 1545 ; after which the present stiucture 
 was erected, and is one of the few that fortunately escaped the dreadful conflagration iu 1666. 
 
 This ancient edifice may very properly be numbered amongst the best of our Gothic 
 buildings. It is 114 feet in length, 63 feet in breadth, 32 feet high, to the roof, and 122 
 feet to the top of the turret. The body of, the church is well enlightened by two rows of 
 windows, which are truly of the Gothic order, and the spaces between have buttresses for 
 the support of the wall. The tower is weU-proportioned, the corners of it are supported by 
 a kind of buttress-work, and at each corner is a small turret. The principal turret, in the 
 centre, is light' and open; it is strengthened by buttresses, and crowned with a dome, fi-om 
 whence rises the vane. ■ ' 
 
 The patronage of this chm'ch was originally in private hands, till it descended to one 
 Alemund, a priest, who granted the same (after his death, and that of Hugh, his only son) 
 to the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, whereby they became not only ordinaries of the 
 parish, but likewise patrons of the vicarage, firom that time to the present. 
 
 Barber-Surgeon's Hall, Monkwell Street. 
 
 This building was designed by that great architect Inigo Jones, and, though of a simple 
 construction,, is exceedingly elegant, and considered as one of bis master-pieces. The grand 
 entrance fi-om Monkwell-street is enriched with the company's arms, large fixiit and other 
 decorations. The court-room has a fi:et-work ceiling, and is adorned with several beautiful 
 paintings, particularly a very handsome piece, by Hans Holbein, of King Henry VIII. 
 uniting the barbers and siu-geons into one company, which contains porti-aits of eighteen of 
 the most eminent members of the company at that time. The theatre belonging to the hall, 
 
 2 A 
 
90 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 at the time these companies were united, contained some chirurgical curiosities ; but, since 
 the barbers and surgeons have been made separate bodies, the latter have taken those curiosities 
 away, and the theatre has ever since been shut up and deserted. 
 
 Fishmongers' hall, Thames Street. 
 
 At a small distance from the bridge, on the west side of this ward, fronting the Thames, 
 stood Fishmongers' Hall, a very handsome building, erected since the destruction of the old 
 hall, by the great fire, and commanding a fine view of the river and the bridge ; but which 
 has recently been takeji down, in consequence of building the new bridge. 
 
 The front entrance to this hall was from Thames Street, by a passage leading into a large 
 square court, paved with flat stones, and encompassed by the great hall, the court-room for 
 the assistants, and other grand apartments with galleries. These were of a handsome con- 
 struction, and supported by Ionic columns, with an arcade. The back front, or that 
 next the Thames, had a grand double flight of stone steps, leading to the first apartments 
 from the whaif. The door was adorned with Ionic columns, supporting an open pediment, 
 in which was sL shield, with the ai-ms of the company. The windows were ornamented witli 
 stone cases, and the quoins of the building wrought with a handsome rustic. 
 
 In the great hall was a wooden statue of Sir William Walworth, armed with his dagger ; 
 and also another of St. Peter : the former belonged to this company, and the latter is, with 
 great proprietj', adopted as its patron saint. In the court-room were several pictures of the 
 various species of sea and river fishes : and the arms of the benefactors to the company were 
 emblazoned in painted glass in the different windows. 
 
 CORDWAINERS' HALL, DiSTAFF LaNE. 
 
 On the north side of Distaff" Lane is Cordwainers' Hall ; a handsome convenient buildino-, 
 consisting of several rooms, the principal of which contains portraits of King William and 
 Queen Mary. A new stone front has been added to this building ; over the centre window of 
 which is a medallion, representing a country girl, spinning with a distaff, in allusion to the 
 name of the lane ; and at the top is a carving of the company's arras. 
 
 Gerard's-hall-Inn, on the south side of Basing Lane, is built upon the remains of a 
 mansion-house, formerly belonging to the ancient family of Gysors, some of whom ser^^ed tlie 
 principal offices in the magistracy. 
 
 Church of St. Edmund, the King, Lombard Stheet. 
 
 This church received its name from being dedicated to Edmund, the Saxon King, who 
 was murdered by the Danes, in the year 870 ; and though the origin of its foundation cannot 
 be ascertained with any degree of certainty, yet, from several circumstances, it is reasonable 
 to suppose, that it was originally built during the time of the Saxon heptarchy. 
 
n 70. 
 
 ST EDMO^JD THE KING, LOMBARD STREET. 
 
 ST. ANTHOLIN. FROM WATLKG STREET 
 
 a-OGd "by A Cru^ 
 
 3T. MAjl J Ti^ O)0TWili H, ,lsiU'f))!l°SlrATe d¥'ilij£ET 
 
 'U'Dipic Ql'.*"uie., l>/lasos 
 
 OS, I'mshui-v Suaa.ro, LouOou. Jo-'vi'/'. JS30. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 9] 
 
 The old chiu'ch was destroyed by the fire of London, after which the present structure 
 was erected on its ruins. The situation of this building diiFers from most other churches 
 in London ; for, instead of east and west, it stands ftiU north and south ; by which the altar 
 is placed at the north end of the church. It is sixty-nine feet long, thirty-nine feet 
 broad, and thirty-two feet high to the roof, which is flat. At the south end is a square 
 tower, from which projects a dial over the street ; and upon the tower is a short spire, with 
 its base fixed on a broad lantern. 
 
 This church is a rectory, the patronage of which is now in the Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 In the year 1175, there was a dispute between the Dean and Chapter of St. Pauls, and the 
 prior and canons of the Trinity convent, within Aldgate, concerning the patronage ; which 
 was determined by Gilbert, Bishop of London, in favour of the latter. 
 
 Church or St. Antholin, Watung Street. 
 
 At the south-west corner of Sise-lane, on the north side, and near the west end of 
 Watling-street, stands the parish church of St Anthony, commonly called St. Antholin, or 
 St. Antlia. 
 
 This church is so called from its dedication to St. Anthony, an Egyptian hermit, and 
 founder of the order of Eremites of St Anthony. The time of its foundation is not certainly 
 known ; but that it is of great antiquity appears from its being in the gift of the canons of 
 St. Paul in the year 1181. It was rebuilt by Thomas KnoUes, Lord Mayor of London, in 
 the year- 1399: and again, in 1513, by John Tate, mercer. In 161() it was repafred and 
 beautified at the expense of one thousand pounds, raised by the contribution of several mu- 
 iiificent inhabitants ; but, being destroyed by the fire of London, it was rebuUt in the year 
 1682, in the same manner it now appears. 
 
 It is built of stone, of the Tuscan order; and is sixty-six feet in length, fifty-four in breadth, 
 forty-four in height, and the altitude of the steeple is one hundred and fifty-four feet. The 
 roof is a cupola of an elliptic form, enlightened by four port-hole windows, and supported by 
 columns of the Composite order. The steeple consists of a tower, and a very neat octangtdar 
 spire, ornamented with apertures in three stages. The windows at the base of the spire have 
 regular cases, and, are crowned with pediments supporting urns. Those of the middle stage 
 have shields, with more free ornaments, which also support their vases ; and the crown of 
 the spire with the decorations under the vane are exceedingly handsome. 
 
 Church of St. Martin Outwich, Bishopsgate-street. 
 
 Opposite the South Sea House, and partly in Bishopsgate-street, stands the Parish church 
 of St. Martin Outwich. This church, which is dedicated to St. Martin, bishop of Tours, in 
 France, about the year 376, is of great antiquity. It derives its additional name of Outwich 
 from the family of Oteswich. Stow names four of them, who were buried here, viz. Martin 
 Nicholas, 'William, and John, who were proprietors of it. In the year 1325, John de 
 
92 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Warren, earl of SuiTey, presented to this living ; but he dying without issue, and leaving 
 his estates to the crown,' the advowson was purchased, in 1387, by the above fainily, whoj 
 in the, sixth year of the reign^ of Henry II., gave it, with four messuages, seventeen shops, 
 and the appurtenances, in the said parish, to the master and wardens of the Tailors and 
 Linen amiourers, and to their successors, to be employed for the perpetual help and relief 
 of the poor bretluren and sisters of the said company : by virtue of which grant, the compan- 
 of Merchant-Tailors have ever since enjoyed the right of patronage to this church. 
 
 The old church, which was built in 1540, was one of the few that escaped the fir 
 London ; but the ravages of time, assisted by the injuries it sustained from a f 
 Bishopsgate-street, in 1765, had affected it so much, that it was taken down, in 17*^ 
 the present structure, the first stone of whicli was laid on the 4th of May, 1796, 1 
 erected in its stead ; which afforded an opportunity of enlarging the entrance into iuicu.. 
 needlerstreet, by taJdng off the angle, which before projected into that street. It is a plain 
 neat building of brick, except the east end, which is of stone ; above which rises a low 
 circular tower, surmounted by a dome. It is a rectory. 
 
 Inn-holders' Hall, Great- Elbow Lane. 
 
 On the north side of Thames Street, a litUe east from Joiners' HaU Buildings, is Great 
 Elbow Lane, in which is a very handsome and convenient hall, belonging to the company 
 of Inn-holders. This company was incorporated by king Hemy VIII., on the 21st of 
 December, 1515, by the name of "The master, wardens, and company, of the art or mystery 
 of Inn-holders of the city of London." It is a livery company, the thirty-second on the 
 city list, and is governed by a master, three wardens, and twenty assistants. The fine on 
 admission is £lO. 
 
 GiRDLERs' Hall, Basinghall-Street. 
 
 On the east side of Basinghall-street is Girdlers'-hall, a handsome and convenient build- 
 ing, finished in 1681, well wainscoted within, and with a skreen of the Composite order. 
 This company was incorporated in the twenty-seventh of Henry VI., on the sixth of 
 August, 1449 ; and re-incorporated, with the pinners and wire-di-awers, by queen Elizabeth, 
 on the 12th of October, 1568, by the name of "The master and wardens, or keepers, of the 
 art or mystery of the Girdlers of London," It is a livery company, governed by a master, 
 three wardens, and twenty-four assistants ; and the fine on admission is ;ElO. 
 
 Dyers' Hall, Little Elbow Lane. 
 
 At a small distance from Inn-holders' PlaJl, in Litde Elbow Lane, is a neat building, 
 used as a hall by the Dyers' company. Their hall, which was formerly situated near Old 
 Swan-lane, in Thames-street, being destroyed by the conflagration in 1666, and a number 
 of warehouses erected in its place, the company have converted this house info a hall to 
 
Dcawnliy Tlio H Sheplieri. 
 Fl.76. 
 
 INKHOLDER'S HALL . COLLEGE STREET. 
 
 Engrave.^, bj J. G-reitf. 
 
 n.77. V 
 
 GIRDLE RS HALL . BASINGHAXL STREET. 
 
 Dcttvm bj-Tho H Sheplierd. 
 
 i-Tigraved. Djr j . Grsitf . 
 
 •S HAJCILs, COJLJLBSE STPtEJST. 
 
ALLBTAI-XOVS BREAJD STREET. 
 
 ST. JAMES'S, G-ARLICK HILL. 
 
 licwa'wfiD.li.SlLepbcrar. 
 
 je'cf ilie Muses .Husbuiy Squan^ J-^cmaoal^cfqfZO.JfiSO 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 93 
 
 transact their affairs in. This company was incorporated by king Edward IV., in the year 
 1472, by the name of "The wardens and commonalty of the mystery of Dyers of London." 
 Their charter is that of keeping swans on the River Thames. This was originally one of 
 the twelve principal companies, but it is now numbered as the thirteenth. It is governed 
 by two wardens, and thirty assistants, and the livery fine is £15. 
 
 Church of Allhallows, Bread Street. 
 
 This church received its name fi-om being dedicated to all the saints, and its situation. 
 It is a rectory of very ancient foundation, the patronage of which was originally in the 
 prior and canons of Christ-church in Cjinterbury, who remained patrons of it till the year 
 1.365, when it was conveyed to the archbishop of Canterbury and his successors, in whom 
 it still continues, and is one of the peculiars belonging to that see in the city of London. 
 
 The old church being destroyed by the fire of London, in 1666, the present edifice was 
 erected in 1684, at the expense of the public ; and serves not only fi)r the accommodation of 
 the inhabitants of its own parish, but likewise for those of St. John the EvangeHst, which is 
 annexed to it by act of parliament. This church consists of a plain body, of the Tuscan 
 order, seventy-two feet in length, thirty-five in breadth, and thirty in height to the roof; 
 with a square tower eighty-six feet high, divided into four stages, with arches near the top. 
 The inside is handsomely wainscoted and pewed, the pulpit finely carved, the sounding 
 board veneered, a neat gallery at the west end, and a spacious altar-piece well adorned and 
 beautified. 
 
 Church of St. James's, Garlick Hill. 
 
 At the south-east comer of Garlick-hiU stands the paiochial church of St. James. This 
 church is so called firom its dedication to the above saint, and its vicinity to a garlick market, 
 which was anciently held in the neighbourhood, and called Garlick Hythe, fi'om being a 
 wharf on the bank of the river. It is a rectory, the patronage of which appears to have 
 been ia the abbot and convent of Westminster, till the suppression of their monastery ; 
 when coming to the crown, Queen Mary, in the year 155-3, granted the same to the bishop 
 of London and his successors, in whom it stiU remains. The earliest mention of this church 
 is, that it was rebuilt by Richard de Rothing, sheriff, in 1326. 
 
 The old church beiug destroyed by the fire of London, the present edifice was begun ten 
 years after, and thoroughly completed in 1682. It is built of stone, seventy-five feet long, 
 forty-five feet broad, and forty feet high to the roof: the altitude of the steeple is ninety- 
 eight feet. The tower is divided into three stages, in the lowest of which is a veiy elegant 
 door with coupled columns of the Corinthian order. In the second is a large window, over 
 which is another, of a circular form, not opened.. In the third story is a window larger than 
 the former ; and the cornice above this supports a range of open work in the place of battle- 
 ments, on a balustrade. Above this is the turret, which is composed of four stages, and 
 
 2B 
 
94 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, 
 
 decorated with columns, scrolls, and ornaments. Frorn the body of the church projects a 
 very handsome dial, on the top of which is a statue of St. James," to whom the church is 
 dedicated. 
 
 Church or St. Mary, Aldermanbury. 
 
 On the west side of the street, .between Love-lane and Addle-street, stands the parish 
 church of St. Mary, Aldermanbury, which is of ancient foundation ; as is evident from a 
 sepulchral inscription, in the old church, bearing the date of 1116". The patronage was 
 formerly in the dean. and chapter of St. Pauls, who, in the year 1331, with the consent of 
 Stephen, bishop of London, appropriated it to the adjoining hospital of Elsing Spital'; but 
 with a proviso,- that the dean and chapter should have the patronage of both, and that, upon 
 the- appointment of a custos to this church and hospital, he was to swear fealty to the dean 
 and chapter, and to pay them an ancient pension of a mark' a year, due from this church, 
 and six shUlings and eightpence yearly, for the hospital, as granted l)y the founder, William 
 de Elsing, in testimony of its subjection to the church of,St. Paul. It was also agreed that 
 the custos should find a priest to serv'^e the cure, who was to be approved by the dean and 
 chapter. Hence it appears that this church was, at that time, a curacj', as it still continues : 
 but, after the dissolution of the hospital, the patronage was granted to the parishioners, 
 who have ever since presented to it. 
 
 The old church being destroyed, by the dreadful fire in 1666, the present structure was 
 finished ten years after. It is built of stone, and very plain ; the body is well enlightened, 
 and the corners are wrought with rustic. It is seventy-two feet long and forty-five broad ; 
 the roof is thirty-eight feet high, and the steeple 'about ninety feet. It has a plain solid 
 tower, constructed in the same manner as the body, and the angles in the upper stage 
 strengthened with rustic ; the cornice is supported by scrolls, and above it is a plain Attic 
 course. In this rises a turret, with a square base that supports the dial. ThistuiTet is 
 arched, but the corners are massy, and its roof is terminated in a point, on which is placed 
 the vane. 
 
 Waterman's Hall, St. Mary's Hill. 
 
 Waterman's Hall, which formerly stood in Cold Harbour, was removed into this ward in 
 the year 1786. Its present situation is on the west side of St. Mary's Hill. It is a neat 
 building, partly of stone, and partly of brick.. The principal entrance, Avhich is at the south 
 end, is through a nistic basement story, above which rise foin- pilasters of the Ionic order, 
 supporting a plain triangular pediment. AboVe the 'door are the aims of the company. 
 
■WATERMATSrS HALL, ST. MARYS HILL. 
 
 -PAENTUR STAINEliS HALL, LITTLE IRTNITY LANE . 
 
 IJrawii "by- lEhD.li.ahBjibera.. 
 
 ee 
 
 l^HirCHESTEm HO10S3E , "WIHCMIESTEB. STISIEE': 
 
 Janj33 .& C? TeiripLe of -file i&ses , ISrLSbury ScfOHre ,Lamian.]Srovf 20,1830. 
 
IlrgsDi% TliDH.SlLepherd, 
 
 ss 
 
 ST. JAMES'S PICCADILLr. 
 
 j?^ Er^rawrl "bv- T. Barber 
 
 ST. PETEE LE POOR, BROAD STREET. 
 
 Iktma V ThoJJ Shephprd 
 
 S7 ■ ^ 
 
 i-iit-io-oj. uy J JVarber. 
 
 M01RTMlIJMBIEm]L,-AMB HOUSE, CHAKltHG CROSS. 
 
 Junes * C? IbmplE of the MuBoB.Hiisburj Square. loaam .Doc.18.B30. 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 95 
 
 Painter-stainer's Hall, Little Trinity Lane. 
 
 On the west side of Little Trinity Lane is Painter-stainer's Hall. This hall is adorned 
 with a handsome screen, arches, pillars, and pilasters of the Corinthian order, painted in 
 imitation of porphyry, with gilt capitals. The panels are of wainscot, and the ceilings are 
 embellished with a great variety of historical and other paintings, exquisitely performed ; 
 amongst which are the portraits of king Charles II. and his queen Catharine, by Mr. 
 Houseman ; a portrait of Camden ; a view of London on fire in 1666 ; and a fine piece of 
 shipping by Monumea. 
 
 In the court room are some fine pictures, most of which are portraits of the members of 
 the company ; and in the front of the room is a fine bust of Mr. Thomas Evans, who left 
 five houses in Basinghall Street to the company. 
 
 Camden, the Antiquarian, gave the Painter-stainer's Company a silver cup and cover, 
 which they use every St. Luke's day at their election ; the oldmaster drinking to his suc- 
 cessor out of it. On the cup is the following inscription : — GuL. Camdenos Clarion- 
 CEUX FiLius Sampsonis pictoris Londinensis dono dedit. 
 
 Winchester House, Winchester Street. 
 
 The remains of this building stand in the south-west corner of Winchester Street, near 
 Broad Street, having been originally erected by the old marquis of Winchester, in the reign 
 of Edward VI. 
 
 The upper part of this fabric is more modem than the lower, but yet appsars in a decayed 
 state. The old walls still retain their mullioned windows surrounded with quoins ; and 
 strong bars of iron are inserted in the bricks, which prevent the several parts of the building 
 from separating. This mansion has for a considerable time been in the occupation of several 
 packers. 
 
 Church op St. James, Westminster. 
 
 On the south side of Piccadilly is the parish church of St. James, Westminster. 
 
 This is also one of the churches that owes its rise to the increase of buildings ; for the 
 church of St. Martin in the fields being too small for the inhabitants, and too remote from 
 those in this quarter, Henry Jermyn, eai-1 of St. Alban's, with other persons of distinction in 
 that neighbourhood, erected this edifice at an expense of about ^7000. It was built in the 
 reign of king Charles II., and, though a large fabric, was considered as a chapel of ease to 
 St. Martin's. It was consecrated in 1684, and dedicated to St. James, in compliment to the 
 name of the duke of York, and the next year, when that prince had ascended the throne, the 
 district for which it was built was by act of parliament separated fi-om St. Martin's, and made 
 a distinct parish. The walls are brick, supported by rustic quoins of stone ; and the 
 
96 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 \vindows, which are large, are also cased with stone. The tower at the west end rises re- 
 gularly from the ground to a considerable height, and is crowned with a neat well-constructed 
 spire. 
 
 In this church is a most beautiful baptismal font, of white marble, by Grinlyn Gibbons. 
 It is supported by a column, representing the tree of the knowledge of good and evil, on which 
 is the serpent offering the fruit to our first parents, who are standing beneath. On the font 
 are three pieces of sculpture : St. John baptizing Christ; Philip baptizing the Eunuch; and 
 Noah's Ark, ^th the dove bearing the olive-branch. 
 
 Over the altar is some exquisite carving in wood, by the same artist, representing a 
 pelican feeding its young, between two doves: there is also a very elegant festoon, with 
 large fiaiit, flowers, and foliage. This parish is a rectory in the ^ft of the bishop of London. 
 
 Church of St. Peter-le-poor, Broad Street. 
 
 On the west side of Broad Street, nearly opposite to the back entrance of the South Sea 
 House, is situated the parish church of St. Peter-le-poor. This chm-ch is of very ancient 
 foundation, as appears from a register of it so far back as the year 1181. It was dedicated 
 to St. Peter the Apostle, and is distinguished from other churches of that name by the ad- 
 ditional epithet of Le Poor, which Stow conjectures was given to it from the ancient state 
 of the parish, though, in his time, there were many fair houses in it, possessed by rich mer- 
 chants and others. 
 
 The old church projected a considerable distance beyond the line of the houses, and was 
 a great obstruction to the passage of the street, in consequence of which, an act of parliament 
 was passed, in 1788, for taking it down and rebuilding it, further back, taking in the site of 
 a coLurt behind. This desirable object was compleited in 1791, at an expense of upwards of 
 £4000, of which the city of London subscribed 400 : the remainder was raised by annuities 
 in the parish. The west end of this new church is elegantly simple : the door is in the 
 centre, between double Ionic columns ; the ends of the front are adorned with pilasters of 
 the same order, between which and the colimins is a blank window on each side. Above 
 the door is a moulded pediment, with a plain tympanum, over which rises a square tower 
 in two stories ; the first plain, for the clock and bells, the second ornamented with double 
 Corinthian pilasters at the comers, on each of which stands a handsome vase. The whole 
 is surmounted with an elegant bell-shaped dome, teiminated by a weathercock. It is a 
 rectory, the advowson of which appears to have been always in the dean and chapter of St. 
 Paul's. 
 
 Northumberland House, Strand. 
 
 At the south-west corner of the Strand, opposite to the end of St. Mailin's Lane, stands 
 Northumberland House, which was erected on the site of the hospital of St. Maiy Rounceval, 
 a cell to the priory of the same name, in Navan-e, founded and endowed by the earl of 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY, 97 
 
 Pembroke, in the reign of Henry III. This hospital was suppressed, with other alien 
 priories, by Henry V. ; but was re-founded, in 1476, by Edward IV. After the general sup- 
 pression of religious houses by Henry VIII., Edward VI., in the year 1549, granted the 
 chapel, with its appurtenances, to Sir Thomas Cawarden. After this it came into the pos- 
 session of Henry Howard, earl of Northampton, who, in the reign of James I., erected three 
 sides of the quadrangle. After the death of this nobleman, it became the property of his re- 
 lation, the earl of Suffolk, and was then known by the name of SuflFolk House. 
 
 In the reign of Chailes I. Algernon, earl of Northumberland, lord high admiral of England, 
 married the daughter of the earl of Suffolk, and, about the year 1642, became proprietor of 
 this house ; from which time it has borne its present name. 
 
 This eai-1, finding it inconvenient to reside in the apartments buUt by lord Northampton, 
 on account of their nearness to the street, completed the quadrangle by building the fourth, 
 or south side, which is at such a distance from the strefet as to avoid the noise of the 
 carriages, &c., and enjoys all the advantages of retirement. This part was built under the 
 direction of Inigo Jones, £is the other three sides had been under that of Bernard Janssen. 
 It was in a conference held in one of these apartments, between the earl of Northumberland, 
 general Monk, and some of the leading men of the nation, that the restoration of Charles II. 
 was proposed, as a measure absolutely necessary to the peace of the kingdom. 
 
 The front next the street was begun to be rebuilt by Algernon, duke of Somerset, who 
 became possessed of it in 1748, in right of his mother, the daughter and heiress of the earl 
 of Northumberland ; and from him it descended to his son-in-law, and daughter, the late 
 duke and duchess of Northumberland, by whom the new front was completed, and such im- 
 provements made as have rendered this building an object of admiration for its elegance and 
 grandeur. 
 
 The front of this building, next the street, is exceedingly magnificent. In the centre of it 
 is a grand arched gate, the piers of which are continued up to the top of the building, with 
 niches on each side from the ground, decorated with carvings, in a sort of Gothic style. 
 They are connected at the top, by uniting to form an arch in the centre, opening from the 
 top of the house to a circular balcony, standing on a small bow window over the gate 
 beneath. Over the arch, on a pedestal, is a carved lion, the crest of the duke of Northum- 
 berland's arms. The building, on each side the centre, is of brick, containing two series 
 of regular windows, five on each side, over a like series of niches on the ground story. At 
 each extremity is a tower, with rustic stone comers, containing one window each in front 
 corresponding with the building. These towers rise above the rest of the front, first with an 
 arched window, above that a port-hole window, and the top tenninated vdth a dome, 
 crowned with a vane. The centre is connected with the turrets over the building, by a 
 breast-work of solid piers, and open lattice-work, alternately, corresponding with the windows 
 beneath, which have stone-work under them, carved in like manner. 
 
 The four sides of the inner coiurt are faced with Portland stone, and the two wings, which 
 extend from the garden front towards the river, are above 100 feet in length. The principal 
 door of the house opens to a vestibule, about eighty-two feet long, and upwards of twelve 
 
 2C 
 
98 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 feet wide, properly ornamented with columns of the Doric order. Each end of it communi- 
 cates with a stair-case leading to the principal apartments, which face the garden. They 
 consist of several spacious rooms, fitted up in the most elegant manner. The ceilings are 
 embellished with copies of antique paintings, or fine ornaments of stucco, richly gilt. The 
 chimney-pieces are of curious marble, carved and finished in the most correct taste. The 
 rooms are hung either with beautiful. tapestry, or the richest damasks, and magnificently fur- 
 nished vnth large glasses, settees, marble tables, &c., with firames of exquisite workmanship, 
 richly gilt. They also contain a great variety of pictures, executed by the most distinguished 
 masters, particularly Raphael, Titian, Paul Veronese, Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Vandyke, &c. 
 Among these is the Cornaro family, painted by Titian, which was sold to Algernon, earl of 
 Northumberland, in the reign of Charles I., by Vandyke, for 1000 guineas. In some of the 
 rooms are large chests, embellished with old gemiine Japan, which, being great rarities, are 
 esteemed invaluable. 
 
 The gsdlery or ball-room, in the east wing, is decorated in a very elegant manner. It is 
 106 feet long, and 27 feet wide. The ceiling is carved and ornamented with figures and 
 festoons, richly gilt. The flat part of the ceiling is divided into five compartments, orna- 
 mented with fine imitations of some antique figures ; particularly a flying Fame blowing a 
 trumpet ; a Diana ; a triumphal car drawn by two horses ; a Flora ; and a Victory holding 
 out a wreath of laurel. The entablature is Corinthian, and of most exquisite workmanship. 
 The whole building, both in the interior and exterior, has within these few years imdergone 
 a complete repaii-, at an immense expense. 
 
 Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, 
 
 Is the only remaining inn of court for the judges and Serjeants of the law, and contains 
 chambers wholly for the accommodation of these gentlemen ; whereas, in that in Fleet Street, 
 each one possessed a distinct house. The degree of a serjeant being the highest in the law, 
 except that of a judge, it is conferred by the sovereign on those of the profession most emi- 
 nently distinguished for their abilities and probity ; and this order is held so honorable, that 
 none are admitted to the dignity of a judge but the members of it. According to the opinion 
 of some of our ablest lawyers, among whom may be named Sir Edward Coke, this degree is 
 of very ancient standing, and it is expressly mentioned in a statute of the third of Edward 
 I., cap. xxix. 
 
 The. Rolls-chapel is the place for keeping the rolls or records in chancery. 
 
 This house was founded by king Henry III. in the place where stood a Jew's house, for- 
 feited to that prince in the year 1233. In this chapel all such Jews and infidels as were 
 converted to the Christian faith were ordained, and in the buildings belonging to it were ap- 
 pointed a suf&cient maintenance ; by which means a great number of converts were baptized, 
 instructed in the doctrines of Christianity, and lived under a learned christian appointed to 
 govern them ; but, in the year 1290, all the Jews being banished, Uie number of converts 
 
Tc-j.TO by W. n.Eoiid, 
 
 HAIL 2^., MOILIB ©B.M. 
 
 JoEies &: C° Teaniile of ■flje T^^usoi^.Knsbnry Sgnarfe ,Iiaiidaii,!Nov^ 20,]830. 
 

 Engraved "by S Lacey: 
 
 TUE MONtrME:NT, TISE STREET HILL. 
 
 ST. AFSTIN, ■WATLING STREET. 
 
 DiotilTt^ Tbo, ll.Shopliord 
 
 nuz. 
 
 jraiBny S lace/ 
 
 SKSSIOMS FiOWSE. «LE"lRKE.1f WEI.]!^ ©IREEH. 
 
 'cmp.L*' of tlie Maaes, Pinfiisiiry- Sqpare, Lojidon, 18^1 . 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 99 
 
 decreased, and, in the year 1377, the house, with its chapel, was annexed by patent to the 
 keeper of the rolls of chancery. 
 
 The chapel, which is of brick, peb'bles, and some free-stone, is sixty feet long, and thirty-- 
 three feet in breadth ; the doors and windows are Gothic, and the roof covered with slate. 
 In this chapel the rolls are kept in presses fixed to the sides, and ornamented with columns 
 and pilasters of the Ionic and Composite orders. These rolls contain all the records, as 
 charters, patents, &c., since the beginning of the reign of Richard III., those before that time 
 being deposited in the record-office in the Tower ; and these being made up in rolls of 
 parchment, gave occasion to the name. 
 
 Staples' Inn, Holborn. 
 
 Within the .bars, on the south side of Holborn, is Staples' Inn, which is an inn of 
 chancery, and a member of Gray's lim, and consists of two large courts, surrounded with 
 good buildings. 
 
 This inn is said to have been anciently a hall for the accommodation of wool-staplers, 
 whence it derived its appellation. It was, however, an inn of chancery in the year 1415, 
 though how long before is unknown. In the year 1529, the benchers of Gray's Inn pur- 
 chased this place of John Knighton, and Alice his wife, by the name of "AH that messuage, 
 or Inn of Chancery, commonly called Staple Inn ; " since which time it has continued to be 
 an appendage to Gray's Inn. 
 
 The Monument, Fish Street Hill. 
 
 This noble piece of architecture was erected by an act of parliament to commemorate the 
 great and di-eadfal conflagration of the city in 1666. It was begun by Sir Christopher 
 Wren in 1671, and finished by him in 1677, at an expense of £14,500. 
 
 It is a round fluted pUlar of the Doric order, built of Portland stone, 202 feet in height 
 from the ground, the exact distance of the spot where the fire began. The diameter of the 
 shaft or body of the column is fifteen feet ; the ground plinth or lowest part of the pedestal 
 is forty feet in height. Over the capitol is an iron balcony, encompassing a cone thirty- 
 two feet high, supporting a blazing urn of gilt brass. In the place of this urn, which was 
 set up contrary to Sir Christopher's opinion, was originally intended a colossal statue, in 
 gilt brass, either of king Charles II., as founder of the new city, after the manner of the 
 Roman piUars, which were terminated with the statues of their Csesars ; or else an erect 
 figure of a woman, crovmed with turrets, holding a sword and cap of maintenance, with 
 other ensigns of the city's grandeur and re-edification. 
 
 Within is a large staircase of black marble, containing 345 steps, each ten inches and a 
 half broad, and six inches thick. The west side of the pedestal is adorned v\'ith cuiious 
 emblems, by the masterly hand of Mr. Gibber, father of the poet-laureat, denoting the de- 
 struction and restoration of the city, in which the eleven principal figures are done in alto, 
 
100 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. ' 
 
 and the rest in basso relievo. The first female figure represents the city of London, sitting 
 among the ruins, in a languishing posture, with her head dejected, hair dishevelled, and her 
 hand carelessly lying on her sword. Behind is Time, gradually raising her up : at her side 
 a woman, representing Providence, gently touching her with one hand, and with a winged 
 sceptre in the other, directing her to regard the goddesses in the clouds, one with a cornu- 
 copia, denoting plenty, the other with a palm branch, the emblem of peace. At her feet a 
 bee-hive, showing that by industry and application the greatest misfortunes are to be over- 
 come. Behind Time ai-e citizens exulting at his endeavours to restore her ; and beneath, 
 in the midst of the mins, is a dragon, who, as supporter of the city arms, with his paw en- 
 deavours to preserve the same. Still farther at the north end is a view of the city in flames; 
 the inhabitants in consternation, with their arms extended upwards, as crying out for 
 succour. Opposite the city, on an elevated pavement, stands the king, in a Roman habit, 
 with a laurel on his head, and a truncheon in his hand; and, approaching her, commands 
 three of his attendants to descend to her relief; the first represents the sciences, with a 
 winged head and circle of naked boys dancing thereon, holding Nature by the hand, with 
 her numerous breasts, ready to give assistance to all ; the second is architecture, with apian 
 in one hand, and a square and pair of compasses' in the other : and the third is Liberty, 
 waving a hat in the air, showing her joy at the pleasing prospect of the city's speedy re- 
 covery. Behind the king stands his brother, the duke of York, with a garland in one hand 
 to crown the rising city, and a sword in the other for her defence. The two figures behind 
 are Justice and Fortitude ; the former with a coronet, and the latter with a reined lion ; and 
 under the royal pavement, in a vault, heth Envy, gnawing a heart, and incessantly emitting 
 pestiferous fumes fi:om her envenomed mouth. In the upper part of the plinth the re- 
 construction of the city is represented by builders and labourers at work upon houses. 
 
 On the other three fagades of the plinth are Latin inscriptions ; that on the north side is 
 thus rendered : — " In the year of Christ, 1666, September 2, eastward fi"om hence, at the 
 distance of 202 feet (the height of this column), a terrible fire broke out about midnight ; 
 which, driven on by a high wind, not only wasted the adjacent parts, but also very remote 
 places, with incredible noise and fury. It consumed eighty-nine churches, the city gates, 
 Guildhall, many public structures, hospitals, schools, . libraries, a vast number of stately 
 edifices, 13,000 dwelling houses, and 400 streets. Of the twenty-six wards it utterly de- 
 stroyed fifteen, and left eight others shattered and half burnt. The ruins of tlie city were 
 436 acres, from the tower by the Thames side to the Temple church ; and fi-om the north- 
 east along the wall to Holborn-bridge. To the estates and fortunes of the citizens it was 
 merciless, but to their lives very favorable, that it might in all things resemble tlie last con- 
 flagration of the world. The destruction was sudden ; for, in a small space of time, the city 
 was seen most flouiishing, and reduced to nothing. Three days after, when, in the opinion 
 of all, this fatal fiire had baffled all human counsels and endeavoiurs, it stopped, as it were 
 by a command fi'om heaven, and was on every side extinguished." 
 
 The inscription on the south side is translated thus : — 
 
 " Charles lie Second, son of Charles the Martyr, king of Great Britain, France, and 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 101 
 
 Ireland, defender of the faith, a most gracious prince, commiserating the deplorable state of 
 things, whilst the rains were yet smoking, provided for the comfort of his citizens, and orna- 
 ment of his city, remitted their taxes, and referred the petition of the magistrates and inha- 
 bitants to parliament ; who immediately passed an act, tliat public works should be restored 
 to greater beauty with public money, to be raised by an impost on coals : that churches, and 
 the cathedral of St. Paul's, should be rebuilt from their foundations with all magnificence ; 
 that the bridges, gates, and prisons should be new mdde, and sewers cleansed ; the streets 
 made straight and regular ; such as were steep levelled, and those too narrow to be made 
 wider ; and that the markets and shambles should be removed to separate places. They 
 also enacted that every house should be built with party-walls, and all in front raised of 
 equal height, and those walls all of squared stone or brick ; and that no man should delay 
 building beyond the space of seven years. Moreover, cai-e was taken, by law, to prevent all 
 suits about their bounds. Also, anniversary prayers were enjoined ; and, to perpetuate the 
 memory hereof to posterity, they caused this column to be erected. The work was carried 
 on with diligence, and London is restored, but whether with greater speed or beauty may be 
 made a question. At three yeai-s' time, the world saw that finished which was supposed to 
 be the business of an age."- 
 
 The inscription on the east side is in English, thus : 
 
 '' This pillar was begun, Sir Richard Ford, knight, being lord mayor of London, in the 
 year 1671. Carried on in the mayoralties of Sir George Waterman, knt. Sir Robert 
 Hanson, knt.. Sir William Hooker, knt., Sir Robert Viner, knt.. Sir Joseph Sheldon, knt., 
 lord mayors. And finished. Sir Thomas Davies being lord mayor, in the year 1677." 
 
 The prevailing opinion of the citizens of London, and of the generaUtj' of protestants of 
 all denominationsj after this terrible devastation, was, that it had been occasioned by the 
 contrivances of the papists ; for which reason, the following inscription was engraved round 
 the pedestal. 
 
 " This pillar was set up in perpetual remembrance of the most dreadfiil burning of this 
 protestant city, begun and carried on by the treachery and malice of the popish faction, in the 
 beginning of September, in the year of our Lord, 1666, iu order to the carrying on their horrid 
 plot for extirpating the protestant religion, and old English liberty, and introducing popery 
 and slavery." 
 
 This inscription was expunged in the time of James II., but was restored in the next 
 reign ; and, by a recent resolution of the court of common-council, it is again ordered to be 
 expunged. 
 
 The cornice of the pedestal is adorned with the king's arms, the sword, mace, cap of 
 maintenance, &c., enriched with trophies ; and at each angle are winged di'agons, the sup- 
 porters of the city aims. 
 
 This monument is, undoubtedly, the noblest modem column in the world ; and, in some 
 respects, may vie with the most celebrated of antiquity. In height it greatly exceeds the 
 pillars of the emperors Trajan and Antoninus, the stately remains of Roman grandeur, as 
 well as that of Theodosius, at Constantinople. 
 
 2D 
 
jq2 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Church of St. Austin, Watling Street. 
 
 At the corner of the Old Change, and Watling Street, stands the parish church of St. 
 Austin, called in old records Ecclesia Sancti Augustini adportum, because it stood near 
 the gate leading out of Watling Street into St. Paul's church-yard. 
 
 It is a rectory, the patronage of which appears to have been always in the dean and 
 chapter of St. Paul's ; for it is mentioned in their books, in the year 1181, when Ralph de 
 Diceto was dean. 
 
 The present edifice is erected on the site of the old church, which was destroyed by the 
 fire of London. It is a substantial structure, built with stone, and well pewed and 
 wainscoted within : the pulpit is finely embellished, and the altar-piece is spacious and 
 beautiful, Avith a very handsome pediment in the fi-ont, supported by pillars, in imitation of 
 porphyry, and on the top of the pediment are the king's aims. 
 
 The length of this church is fifty-one feet, the breadth forty-five feet, the height of the 
 roof thirty feet, and that of the steeple l45 feet. 
 
 After the fire of London, this church was made parochial for the parish of St. Austin and 
 that of St. Faith, which was united to it. 
 
 Sessions' House, Clerkenwell Green. 
 
 On the west side of Clerkenwell Green is the sessions' house for the county of Middlesex. 
 The former sessions' house was situated in the middle of St. John Street, and was called 
 Hicks's-hall, firora its founder, Sir Baptist Hicks, by whom it was erected in the year 1611, 
 and given for the perpetual use of the magistrates of the county. This building having be- 
 come verj' ruinous, and being also extremely inconvenient, an act of parliament was obtained 
 in the year 1779 for erecting a new one ; and, a convenient spot of groimd having been pur- 
 chased on Clerkenwell Green, the first stone of the present edifice was laid on the 20th of 
 August in that year, and it was opened for business in 1782. 
 
 The east and principal front of it, towards Clerkenwell Green, is composed of four three- 
 quarter columns, and two pilasters, of the Ionic order, supported by a rustic basement. The 
 county arms are placed in the tympanum of the pediment. Under the entablatui'e are two 
 medallions, which represent Justice and Mercy. In the former. Justice holds the scales and 
 sword ; and in the latter, Mercy grasps the blunted sword and the sceptre, capped with the 
 British crown, on which, as emblematic of the mildness of the British laws, rests a dove, 
 with an olive-branch in its mouth. In the centre, between Justice and Mercy, is a me- 
 dallion of his majesty, George III., in profile, decorated with festoons of laurel and oak leaves, 
 the emblems of strength and valour. At each extremity is a medallion, containing the Roman 
 fasces and sword, the insignia of authority and punishment. The extent of this building is 
 110 feet fi'om east to west, and 78 feet fi:om north to south. 
 
ruiOT. 
 
 n.i08. 
 
 LYON'S INN HALL. 
 
 BAHNARD'S INN HALL. 
 
 FILEET STREET. 
 
 [onoa Jt r* IliTnnla r^ +>.« T,*., ^. t;^. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 103 
 
 The hall is thh-ty-four feet square, and terminates at the top in a circular dome, 
 enlightened by six circular wdndows, each four feet eleven inches in diameter. This dome 
 is panelled in stucco, and the spandrils under it are decorated with shields and oak-leaves. 
 The sides of the hall are finished with pilasters of the composite order, crowned with an 
 entablature, the frieze of which is ornamented with foliage and medallions, representing the 
 caduceus of Mercury, and the Roman fasces. 
 
 From the hall a double flight of steps leads up to the court, which is in the form of the 
 Roman letter D, and is thirty -four feet by thirty, and twenty-six feet high, with spacious 
 galleries on the sides for the auditors. 
 
 The rooms on each side of the entrance are appropriated to the meetings of the magis- 
 trates. In one of them is the original portrait of Sir Baptist Hicks, which was brought 
 from the old sessions' house, with the arms and ornaments which decorated the chimney of 
 the dining room there ; and in the other is a good copy of the picture. 
 
 Lyon's Inn Hall.— Barnard's Inn. 
 
 Opposite to the New Inn, on the south side of Wych Street, is Lyon's Inn, which is a 
 house of chancery, belonging to the Inner Temple. It was anciently a common inn, having 
 the sign of the lion, and is said to have been in the possession of the students and practitioners 
 of the law ever since the year 1420. 
 
 On the south side of Holborn is Barnard's Inn, which is also an inn of Chancery, and an 
 appendage to Gray's Inn. It was anciently denominated Mackworth's Inn, and was 
 given to the society in the year 1454, by the executors of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln. 
 
 Fleet Street. 
 
 It appears, from Fabian and others, that this was the principal part of the Saxon city ; 
 and that in king Ethelred's reign, London had more building from Ludgate towards West- 
 itdnster, and little or none where the chief or heart of the city now is. This might have 
 arisen from the incursions of the Danes, as the gates identify the more ancient city. 
 
 The very interesting and picturesque view of this street, seen from the point where the 
 engraving was taken, represents St. Dunstan's chiu-ch (since taken down) ; proceeding 
 westward, on the left, the newly erected handsome banking-house of Messrs. Hoare and 
 Company, on the opposite side the way, and that fine object. Temple Bar, in the fiont 
 distance. 
 
 The Tower of London 
 
 stands on the celebrated eminence called Tower Hill; and, though said to be of very 
 ancient date, cannot be traced with any certainty beyond the time of William the Conqueror, 
 who built what is now called the White Tower, and enlarged the whole, which at present 
 
104 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 covers twelve superficial acres ; its ramparts are surrounded .Igr.. a deep and wide ditch, pro- 
 ceeding north on each side of the fortress, nearly in a parallel line, and meeting in a semi- 
 circular projection. The slope is faced with brick work, and the walls have been so much 
 mended that the original stone is scarcely to be seen. Cannon are placed at intervals 
 round the wall, though the interior is completely lined with old houses. 
 
 The principal entrance into the Tower is by the west gate, large enough to admit 
 coaches and heavy carriages. This gateway itself is entered by an outer gate, opening to a 
 strong stone bridge built over the ditch. 
 
 The Traitor's Gate is a low arch through the wall, on the south side^ on which there are 
 several old decayed towers, intermixed with modem brick offices and ragged fragments of 
 patched curtains ; and this gate communicates by a canal with the river Thames. 
 
 Besides these, there is an entrance for foot passengers over the draw-bridge to the wharf, 
 opened every morning. The points of a huge portcullis may still be seen over the arch of 
 the principal gate, and great ceremony is used at opening and shutting it night and morning. 
 This mass of buildings is remarkable on several accounts. 
 
 The principal buildings within the Tower walls are, the White Tower and the Chapel of St. 
 John, where the records are lodged within the same ; the Church of St. Peter Ad Vincula 
 infira Turrim, the Ordnjince Office, the Record Office, the Jewel Office, the Horse Armoury, 
 the Grand Storehouse, in which is the small armoury, and the Menagerie. Here are like- 
 wise apartments for state prisoners. The Wliite Tower, or interior fortress, is a large square 
 irregular building, almost in the centre of the Tower, consisting of three lofty stories, having 
 under them commodious vaults for salt-petre, &c. : on the top, covered with lead, is a 
 cistern or reservoir, from which, in case of necessity, the whole garrison might be supplied 
 with water. 
 
 The palace within the Tower was in the south-east angle of the walls, and was used by 
 the kings of England, nearly 500 years, only ceasing to be so on the accession of queen 
 Elizabeth, who, after being confined as a prisoner by queen Maiy, had, probably, no longing 
 to renew her residence in the Tower, 
 
 On a long platform before the Tower, on the Thames' side, sixty-one pieces of cannon 
 used to be planted, and fired on rejoicing days ; but these were removed in 1814, and those 
 on the ramparts are used in their stead. 
 
 After passing the spur-guard, in a spacious enclosure, at the right hand, is the repository 
 for wild beasts, &c., presented to the British sovereign from foreign potentates, which are 
 shown to the poblic by the keepers for a shilling each person ; for this fee the beholders are 
 informed of the names, genealogies, &c., of the different animals, which are well worth 
 seeing, as they are kept remarkably clean and healthy in capacious dens. It is a necessary 
 caution, however, not to go within the rails, or to attempt to play tricks, as the beasts 
 whelped in the Tower are much more fierce than those brought over wild. 
 
 Having passed the bridge, the wardens wait at the principal gate, to afford information 
 to strangers, and to conduct them to view the many and valuable curiosities with which the 
 Tower abounds. These are so various, that the minute description of them would 'ftmaish 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. , |05 
 
 a volume ; we can, therefore, only mention, that the Horse Armoury contains the representa- 
 tions of sixteen English Monarchs on horseback, and in complete armour. The Small 
 Armoury contains complete stands of arms, bright, clear, and flinted, for 150,000 men ; 
 besides cannon and pikes, swords, &c., innumerable, ranged in regular order. The Jewel 
 Office contains the imperial crown, placed on the heads of the Kings of England at their 
 coronation, the Prince of Wales's crown, golden spurs and bracelets, the crown jewels, and 
 a great quantity of curious old plate. The Ordnance Office, burnt 1789, has been rebuilt 
 in a way so as to prevent the-recurrence of such an accident. The Record Office is opposite 
 the platform, but, like the Ordnance Office, is not a place of mere curiosity, access being 
 confined to such persons as may have particular business to transact there. 
 
 The chapel, dedicated to St. Peter Ad Vincula, may be seen, by applying to the pew- 
 opener, at any time, for a small fee. 
 
 Prerogative Will Office, Doctor's Commons. 
 
 This court is thus denominated from the prerogative of the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 who, by a special privilege beyond those of his suffiragans, can here try all disputes that 
 happen to arise concerning the last wills of persons within his province, who have left goods 
 to the value of five pounds and upwards, unless such things are settled by composition be- 
 tween the metropolitan and his suffiragans ; as in the diocese of London, where it is ten 
 pounds. To this court belongs a judge, who is styled Judex Curia Prerogativse 
 Cantuariensis ; and a registrar, who hath convenient rooms in his office, for the disposing 
 and laying up safe all original wills and testaments. This registrar also hath his deputy, 
 besides several clerks. 
 
 Ben Jonson's Head, Devereux Court, Strand. 
 
 Ben Jonson, one of the most considerable dramatic poets of the seventeenth centmy, 
 whether we consider the number or the merit of his productions, was the son of a clergyman 
 in Westminster, where he was born in the year 1574, about a month afl;er the death of his 
 father. He was descended of a Scottish family ; for it appears that his father had been pos- 
 sessed of an estate in Scotland, which he lost in the reign of Queen Marj'. The family 
 name was Johnson, but for some reason, which is not known, our poet always wrote it with- 
 out the h. His education was begun at a private school, in St. Martin in the Fields, 
 whence he was removed to Westminster- school, and placed under the tuition of the great 
 Camden ; but, his mother having married a bricklayer, Ben was taken home, and obliged to 
 work at his father-in-law's trade. This was an indignity his mind could not submit to ; he 
 therefore enlisted as a soldier, and was sent over to the Low Countries, where he distin- 
 guished himself by killing one of the enemy in single combat, and carrying off the spoils in 
 sight of both armies. 
 
 On his return to England, he entered himself of St. John's College, Cambridge; but, his 
 
 2 E 
 
106 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 finances not permitting him to prosecute his studies, he joined a company of players. 
 While he helonged to this company ,^ a quarrel took place hetween him and one of his 
 associates, which produced a duel, and Ben killed his antagonist ; for which he was con- 
 demned, and narrowly escaped execution. 
 
 Shakspeare is said to have introduced him to the world, hy bringing a play of his on the 
 stage, and perfonning a principal part ia it himself Thus encouraged, his genius ripened 
 apace, and, from 1598 to 1603, he furnished the stage with a new play regularly every year. 
 Afterwards, he became more slow in his productionsj though he still continued to write. In 
 1619, he obtained the degree of master of arts, at Oxford, and was madfe poet-laureat to 
 James I., with a salary of one hundred marks per annum, and a tierce of wine. As we do 
 not find his economical virtues any where recorded, it will not appear surprising that this 
 sum was too little for his wants ; for which reason, on the accession of Charles I., he peti- 
 tioned for, and obtained, an increase of his allowance, from marks to pounds. Still his 
 extravagance exceeded his income,, and, quickly after, we learn that he was very poor and 
 sick, lodging in an obscure alley. Charles was again applied to, and sent him ten guineas, 
 which was so much below his wishes, that he said, on receiving it, " His majesty has sent 
 me ten guineaSj. because I am poor and live in an alley ; go and tell him that his soul lives 
 in an alley." 
 
 He died on the 16th of August, 1637, and was buried in Westminster-abbey, where a 
 marble monument is erected to his memory, with this laconic inscription : O Rare Ben 
 Jonson ! 
 
 Chuech of St. Anne, Soho. 
 
 The parish of St. Anne was separated from that of St. Martin in the Fields by an act of 
 parUament passed in the year 1661; previous to which, apiece of groupd was laid out 
 under the authority of the bishop of London, in Kemp's field, now King-street for the site 
 of a church and church-yard, and also for a glebe for the support of a rector. But the in- 
 habitants not being empowered by this act to raise money for accomplishing their purpose 
 the building of the church was long interrupted, and at length a second act was obtained 
 to enable them to raise the siun of five thousands pounds, for the completion of the chiu-ch 
 rectorj' house,. &c., and on the 25th of March, 1685, the church and cemetery were conse- 
 crated by the bishop of London. 
 
 The walls of this church are of brick, with i-ustic quoins of stone, and at the east end is a 
 large modillion cornice and triangular pediment. This church has been since repaired and 
 a handsome painted glass window has been put up at the east end. The tower and steeple 
 at the west end were also rebuilt at the same time. 
 
 The interior of the building is handsome. The roof is arched and divided into panels. 
 It is supported by columns of the Ionic order ; and the gallery is raised on those of the 
 Tuscan order. The organ is the gift of King William III. 
 
 The parish is a rectory in the gift of the bishop of London. 
 
Drailtl'byTho. H. SliepTierf., 
 
 ST. AWNE'S, SOHO. 
 
 POKE STHEEX, AND CRIPPLEGATE CHTIRCH. 
 
 Encased, "by J Tm^- 
 
 ■WMETIE CHIAFEIL. 
 
 3le of the Mftses, Rnsbury Square, 1 .oadoriT 163L. ,«'f 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 107 
 
 Against the tower is a tablet erected to the memory of Theodore Anthony Newhoflf, king 
 of Corsica, who died in this parish in the year 1756, soon after his liberation from the King's- 
 bench prison by an act of insolvency. The malice of fortune pursued this unfortunate man 
 even after death. The friend who sheltered him in the last days of his wretched existence 
 was himself so poor as to be unable to defray the cost of his funeral, and his remains were 
 about to be consigned to the grave by the parish, when a Mr. Wright, an oilman, in Comp- 
 ton-street, declared he for once would pay the funeral expenses of a king ; which he actually 
 did. The marble was erected and the epitaph written by the honourable Horace Walpole. 
 It is as follows : — 
 
 The grave, great teacher, to a level brings 
 Heroes and beggars, galley slaves and kings. 
 But Theodore this moral learn'd ere dead. 
 Fate pour'd its lessons on his living head, 
 Bestow'd a kingdom, and denied him bread. 
 
 Church of 8t. Mary, Whitechapel. 
 
 This church is of some antiquity, as appears by Hugh de Fulboum being rector thereof in 
 the year 1329. It was originally a chapel of ease to the church of St. Dunstan, Stepney, 
 and is supposed to have obtained the epithet of White from having been white-washed or 
 
 plastered on the outside. 
 
 The first church erected on the spot, after it ceased to be a chapel of ease of Stepney 
 parish, was dedicated to St. Mary Matfelon, and the township acquired the appellation of 
 ViUa Beatse Marise de Matfelon; a name which has given birth to many conjectures 
 respecting its signification, but which is probably derived from the Hebrew word Matfel, 
 which signifies both a woman lately delivered of a son, and a woman carrying her infant 
 son ; either of which significations is applicable to the Virgin Mary and her holy babe. 
 
 The old church being in a very ruinous condition, it was taken down in 1673, and the 
 present edifice was soon after erected in its stead. This is a coarse and very irregular 
 buildino- ; the body, which is formed of brick, and ornamented with stone rustic work at the 
 corners, is ninety-three feet in length, sixty-three feet in breadth ; and the height of the tower 
 and tturet is eighty feet. The principal door is ornamented with a kind of rustic pilasters, 
 with cherubs' heads by way of capitals, and a pediment above. The body is enlightened 
 with a great number of windows, which are of various forms, and diflferent sizes, a sort of 
 Venetian oval and square. The square windows have ill-proportioned circular pediments ; 
 and the oval, or more properly elliptic windows, some of which stand upright, and others 
 cross-ways, are surrounded with thick festoons. The steeple, which is of stone, rises above 
 the principal door, and is crowned with a plain square battlement, in the centre of which 
 rises a small turret, with its dome and vane. It was some time since thoroughly repaired. 
 
108 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Church of Allhallows Staining, Mark Lane. 
 
 This church is believed to be of Saxon origin, because of the additional epithet of Stane 
 now corruptly called Staining ; which our antiquaries are of opinion was giyen to it on, 
 account of being built with stone, to distinguish it from some of the other churches in this 
 city, of the same name, that were buUt of wood. The first authentic mention of it is in the 
 year 1329, when Edward Camel was incumbent thereof. 
 
 It was anciently a rectory, under the patronage of the De Walthams, and others, till 
 about 1369, when Simon, bishop of London, upon the petition of the abbot and convent of 
 Grace, near the Tower, appropriated it to them and their successors, with power to convert 
 the profits to their own use, and to supply the cure with either a monk or a secular priest, re- 
 movable at their pleasure. This curacy devolving with the abbey to the crown, it was sold 
 on the 7th of October, 1607, by king James I. to George Bingley, and others, to be 
 held of the crown, in soccage ; and, coming afterwards to the Lady Slany, was by her be- 
 queathed to the company of Grocers, who have since held the advowson. 
 
 This chiurch escaped the fire in 1666 ; but it was in so ruinous a state, that the body of 
 it fell down three years after, and the whole was rebuilt, at the expense of the parishioners, 
 as it now appears. It is a very plain edifice, enlightened with Gothic windows ; but the 
 front, which is of free-stone, is of the Tuscan order. It has a square tower, crowned with 
 a small turret. The length of the church is seventy-eight feet, its breadth thirty-two, and 
 its height twenty-four ; and the altitude of the tower is seventy feet. 
 
 Church of St. Martin Orgar, St. Martin's Lane, Cannon Street. 
 
 The church of St. Martin Orgar stood on the east side of St. Martin's-lane, near Cannon- 
 sti'eet, and was so denominated from its dedication to St. Martin, and from Ordgarus, who 
 was supposed to be the founder of it. It was also a rectory, the patronage of which was 
 granted by Ordgarus, with the consent of his wife and sons, to the Dean and Chapter of St. 
 Paul's, about the year 1181, in whom it still remains ; and, since the union of this parish to 
 that of St. Clement, they present alternately with the bishop of London. 
 
 The remains of this church being found capable of repair, after the fire in 1 666, a body 
 of French protestants, in communion with the church of England, obtained a lease of the 
 tower and ruinous nave, from the minister and church-wardens, wliich being confirmed by 
 parliament, they repaired it, and converted it into a place of worship for their own use. 
 
 Church of St. Nicholas, Cole-Abbey, Old Fish Street. 
 
 On the south side of Old Fish-street, at the corner of Labour-in-vain-hill, stands the 
 parish church of St. Nicholas, Cole-abbey ; which is so denominated from being dedicated 
 to St. Nicholas, Bishop of Mera ; but the reason of -the additional epithet is not known ; 
 
n.ii9 
 
 ALLHALLOTjrS STAINIJTG, MASK LANE. 
 
 X2,0 EiL|ravi?a >,• J, B. ARon 
 
 j 
 
 ST. MAHTIN, ORGAH, MARTDTS lASE, CA!<raOK ST. 
 
 nraWD "by ITu >J Thqjlicrd 
 
 ST. HICHOLAS, COLE ABBEY, TISH STREET. 
 
 C? Temple of Hie M\ieos. f^BsliBrj Sq-oaxe, London,]fl31. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 109 
 
 some conjecturing it to be a corruption of Golden-abbey, and others, that it is derived from 
 Cold-abbey, or Coldbey, from its cold or bleak situation. It is known that there was a 
 church in the same place, before the year 1877, when, according to Stow, the steeple, and 
 south aisle, which were not so old as the rest of the church, were rebuilt ; but, the last 
 structure being consumed in the great conflagration in 1666, the present church was 
 built in its place, and the parish of St. Nicholas, Olave, united to it 
 
 This edifice consists of a plain body, built of stone, well enlightened by a single range of 
 windows. It is sixty-three feet long, and forty-three feet broad, thirty-six feet high to the 
 roof, and one hundred and thirty-five to the top of the spire. 
 
 The tower is plain, but strengthened with rustic at the comers ; and the spire, which is 
 the frustrum of a pyramid, and covered with lead, has a gallery, and many openings. This 
 was the first church built and completed after the fire. 
 
 The advowson of this rectory was anciently in the Dean and Chapter of St. Martin's-le- 
 Grand ; but, upon the grant of that collegiate chmch to the abbot and canons of West- 
 minster, the patronage devolved to that convent, in whom it continued till the dissolution of 
 their monastery ; when, coming to the crown, it remained therein till Queen Elizabeth, in 
 the year 1560, granted the patronage thereof to Thomas Reeve and George Evelyn, and 
 their heirs, in soccage, who conveying it to others, it came at last to the family of the 
 Hackers, one whereof was Colonel Francis Hacker, commander of the guard that conducted 
 King Charles I. to and from his trial, and at last to the scafibld ; for which, after the Re- 
 storation, he was executed as a traitori when the advowson reverted to the crown, ' in 
 whom it still continues. 
 
 Church of Allhali-ows, London Wall. 
 
 A little to the east of where Beth'lem Hospital formerly stood, is the parish church of AU- 
 hallows, London Wall. The patronage of this chiurch, which is a rectory, was anciently in 
 the prior and convent of the Holy Trinity, near Aldgate, who presented Thomas Richard 
 de Sanston to it, in 1335. 
 
 At the dissolution of religious houses, in the time of Henry VIII., this church, with the 
 priory to which it belonged, was surrendered to the crown, in whom the advowson still re- 
 mains. The old chmch escaped the fire of London, but became so ruinous, that in 1 765 the 
 parishioners obtained an act of parliament to empower them to pull it down, together with 
 the parsonage house, and to enable them to rpise money by annuities to rebuild it. 
 
 The present church is built of brick and stone, and, though plain, is very neat. It 
 is longer than the old church, and the rector's house stands at the north-east comer of the 
 church-yard. 
 
 2F 
 
110 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Westminster Hall 
 
 Was built by William Rufus as a banqueting-house to the palace, which then stood in 
 Old Palace-Yard ; but old Westminster Hall was pulled down, and the present edifice 
 erected in its stead, in the year 1397. This ancient building is of stone, the front orna- 
 mented with two towers, adomed with carved work. The hall within is reckoned the 
 largest room in Europe, being 270 feet in length and seventy-four , in breadth. The pave- 
 ment is of. stone, and the roof of chestnut-wood. It was formerly covered with lead, but, 
 this being found too weighty, it has' been slated for many years past On entering the hall 
 to the right, is the entrance to the Court of King's Bench, and on the left are stairs leading 
 to various offices. The Court of Common Pleas is on the west side, nearly in the 
 middle of the hall, and was established by Magna Charta in the year 1215, being before 
 ambulatory, in following the king. The Court of Chancery is so called from the Latin word 
 CanceUi, or a screen, within which the judges sat to determine causes, without being 
 annoyed by the spectators. The Court of King's Bench, situated on the right directly 
 on entering the Hall, is so called from a high bench on which our ancient monarchs 
 usually sat in person, whilst the judges to whom the judicature was deputed in then- 
 absence sat on lower benches at their feet. 
 
 The delapidated state of the exterior of this fine Hall was long a subject of regret with the 
 antiquary, as the figures, arms, and other decorations that originally adomed the gate and 
 walls, were fast sinking to decay. These, however, as well as the various courts and offices, 
 have been recently repaired and restored by Mr. Soane. The front and other parts of the 
 exterior, have likewise undergone a complete repair by the same architect, and which has 
 given occasion for much animadversion and severe criticism. 
 
 A dark passage fi-om , the south-east corner of the Hall formerly led to St. Stephen's 
 Chapel Yard and Old Palace Yard. From this part the beautifiil ancient cloisters might be 
 observed, with their rich-groined arches and sculptured key-stones. Before this Hall was 
 anciently a handsome conduit or fountain, with numerous spouts ; whence, on occasions of 
 rejoicing, streams of wine issued to the populace ; at other times the inhabitants received 
 Ihe waste water from this source for their domestic uses. 
 
 Church of St. John the Evangelist, Westminster. 
 
 The parish of St. Margaret being greatly increased in the number of houses and inhabi- 
 tants, it was judged necessary to erect one of the fifty new churches within it. This chiuch, 
 being finished, was dedicated to St. John the Evangelist; a parish was taken out of St. 
 Margaret's, and the parUament granted the sum of two thousand five hundred pounds, to 
 be laid out in the purchase of lands, tenements, &c., for the maintenance of the rector ; but, 
 besides the profits ai-ising from this purchase, it was also enacted. That, as a farther 
 
Dravoi ly Tho. H.. Stepterd 
 
 ■1 
 
 mil!! wdiB^^^HH.'!^!! 
 
 m 
 
 llllll^^^jjlljllliyiig^ 
 
 i 
 
 
 p 
 
 ^^^^^^^H 
 
 H 
 
 ■^■■■■■■■■■i 
 
 WESTMESfSTEB. HAJLJL. 
 
 w= "by Tho. H. Kliq)Wa 
 P112S 
 
 ST. JTOMSJ'S CEIWMCffl, 'WISSTfflllHSTIEK.. 
 
 C° Tenrple of the Muses, HnBtury Square, Laad.oii-,X83] 
 
Drawn ly 'Hifl-a.Siepherd 
 
 TME ©HIKE OF TfORK'S SCHO©!.. CHEJLSEA. 
 
 Drmwi try liio. 11 ShJepSiera, 
 
 .FLJ27- 
 
 ■area lay T Barber. 
 
 SJPEWCKM-'S Bt(Q)TUrSE. (&MB3EM IPARI^. 
 
 Jones & C? Teroplo of the M-o^s, I-jJiB"bi]ry Scjuare, LoDdcai.1831 
 
LOMDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Ill 
 
 provision for the rector, the sum of one hundred and twenty-five pounds should be annually 
 raised, by an equal pound rate upon the inhabitants. 
 
 This church was begun in 1721, and finished in 1728, and is remarkable only for having 
 sunk while it was building, which occasioned an alteration in the plan. On the north and 
 south sides are magnificent porticos, supported by vast stone pillars, as is also the roof of 
 the church. At, each of the four comers is a beautiful stone tower and pinnacle: these 
 ■ additions were erected, that the whole might sink equally, and owe their magnitude to the 
 same cause. The parts of this building are held together by iron bars, which cross even 
 the aisles. 
 
 The advowson of this church is in the Dean and Chapter of Westminster : and, to prevent 
 this rectory being held in commendam, all licenses and dispensations for holding it are, by 
 act of parliament, declaxed null and void. 
 
 The Royal Military Asylum, Chelsea, 
 
 For the children of the soldiers of the regular army, is near the Royal Hospital, and 
 adjoining the King's Road. This building is environed. on all sides with high walls,, and a 
 handsome iron railing before the grand front. This edifice, built of brick, forms three sides 
 of a quadrangle, with an elegant stone balustrade. The centre of the western front has a 
 noble portico of the Doric order, consisting of four immense columnSj supporting a large and 
 well-proportioned pediment ; on the frieze of which is inscribed, " The Royal Military 
 Asylum for the Children of the Soldiers of the Regular Army." Over this inscription are 
 the royal arms. Here are seven hundred boys, and three hundred girls ; the boys wear red 
 jackets, blue trowsers, &c. ; and the girls red gowns, blue petticoats, straw bonnets, white 
 aprons, &c. ; it is commonly called " the Duke of York's school," firom his late Royal 
 Highness having been the chief promoter and patron of the institution. 
 
 Spencee-House, Green Park. 
 
 From Cleveland Row, Piccadilly, is a passage leading to the Green Park. The Wilder- 
 ness, with the Ranger's Lodge, the Lawn, the Water, the Walks, and the extensive pros- 
 pects, render whicji extremely beautiful The east side is ornamented with the houses of 
 many of the nobility, Avith gardens . before them. Spencer House is one of the most 
 worthy of notice ; the Park front of this mansion is ornamented to a high degree, though 
 the pediment in it is considered too lofty, and has not the grace and majesty of the low 
 Grecian pediment. The statues on the pediment, and the vases at each extremity, must be 
 mentioned with approbation, as they are in a good style, and judiciously disposed. , The in- 
 terior of Spencer House is not inferior to the outside ; but its chief ornament is The 
 Library. 
 
112 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 The Albany, Piccadilly. 
 
 Adjoining to Bvtrlington-House is the Albany Hotel, first inhabited by LotA Melboumie; 
 and exchanged with him by the late Duke of York. When his Royal Highness quitted pos- 
 session, the next proprietors built on the gardens, and converted the whole into chambers for 
 the casual residence of the nobility and gentry who had not settled residences in town. The 
 name of the Albany was given to this house in compliment to the Pjince Duke, whose 
 second title is Duke of Albany. Here also stood the house of the Earl of Sutherland, whose 
 advice ruined his sovereign James the Second. The present structure is the work of the 
 late Sir William Chambers. 
 
 Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate Street. 
 
 On the east side of the street, nearly opposite to Westmoreland buildings, is Shaftesbury, 
 or, as it is sometimes called, Thanet-house. This edifice, which is by the masterly hand of 
 Inigo Jones, is built with brick, and ornamented with stone, in a very elegant taste- The 
 iront is adorned with Ionic pilasters, fi:om the volutes of which hang garlands of foliage. 
 These pilasters are doubled on each side of the centre window, over which is an arched 
 pediment, opened for the reception of a shield. The door is arched, and firom each side of 
 it springs an elegant scroll, for the support of a balcony. This structure had been let out 
 for mechanical nses, and was going fast to decay, when, in the year 1750, the LondcHi 
 Lying-in-hospital was instituted. The promoters of that charity, having hired this house, 
 repaired it thoroughly, and preserved it for a time, firom the fate of its opposite neighboursi. 
 The increase of that institution having rendered a larger bidlding necessary, they quitted 
 Shaftesbury-house, in 1771, and were succeeded by the General Dispensary, which still 
 occupies the back part of it. The firont is divided into tenements, and let to respectable 
 shopkeepers. 
 
 Broad Street, Bloomsbury, and Church of St. Giles. 
 
 This magnificent edifice, seen to great advantage fi-om Broad St., Bloomsbury, is exceed- 
 ing lofty, and the whole of it is built of Portland stone. The area of the church within the 
 walls is sixty feet wide; and seventy-five in length, exclusive of the recess for the altar. 
 The roof is supported with Ionic pillars of Portland stone on stone piers, and is vaulted un- 
 derneath. The outside of the church has a rustic basement, and the windows of the 
 galleries have semicircular heads, over which is a medallion cornice. The steeple is one 
 hundred and sixty feet high, and consists of a rustic pedestal, supporting a Doric order of 
 pilasters, and over the clock is an octangular tower with three quarter Ionic columns, sup- 
 porting a balusteade with vases ; on this tower stands the spire, which is also octangular 
 and belted. 
 
Dcjom. "by- Tho .H- Shephera.. 
 n. 105 
 
 ^avDd'by-'W'Wooln^, 
 
 BIROAIG) STREET, BILOOMSBTD'IRX 
 
 n.jos - 
 
 ■ingraycd b-, W "Wbolnolh 
 
 MOlL.BOffi.'Kf BIRIPGE. 
 
 Joaes & C? 'iferaple of 'ftic Muses, r^nstexrv Square, Ijondon.. 1833 . 
 
rr= 
 
 I 
 
 til! 
 
 iHSiiyaiiBapawMaKKipqB 
 
 **.*.* ^ h'"""" " " 'I i ii i ■ 
 
 Bamlij Tin H. SlieplLeEd- 
 
 n.ua. 
 
 THE A]LIBAHT. PIC C A©K3LI.^. 
 
 
 Engraved, "br M. b Jiarcagsi 
 
 of tte Mkses PmBbory Sqiiflre. LaQaim.Maixh.5 2S31. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 113 
 
 The author of the Review of the Public Buildings says, " The new church of St. Giles 
 is one of the most simple and elegant of the modern structures : it was raised at a very little 
 expense, has very few ornaments, and little beside the propriety of its parts, and the harmony 
 of the whole, to excite attention, and challenge applause, yet still it pleases, and justly too. 
 The east end is both plain and majestic, and there is nothiag in the west to object to but 
 the smallness of the doors, and the poverty of appearance that must necessarily follow. The 
 steeple is light, airy, and genteel ; argues a good deal of genius in the architect, and looks 
 very well, both in comparison with the body of the church, and when it is considered as a 
 building by itself in a distant prospect. 
 
 The expense of erecting this church amounted to ten thousand and twenty-six pounds, 
 fifteen shillings and nine-pence, including the eight thousand pounds granted by parliament. 
 It is a rectory in the gift of the crown. 
 
 Over the north-west door into the chiurch-yard is a curious piece of sculpture, repre- 
 senting the Day of Resurrection. It contains a great number of figures, and was set up 
 a:bout the year 1686. 
 
 HoLBORN Bridge, Church of St. Andrew, &c. 
 
 It would be difficult, perhaps, to select any single point of the metropolis better calcu- 
 lated to convey to the mind of a stranger some idea of its unceasing bustle and traffic than 
 the pai-t of Holborn Bridge fi-om which our view of this scene is taken. Here, what war 
 formerly Fleet Market, but is now called Farringdon Street, terminates to the north, and 
 pours forth its living stream from Fleet Street ; which, running parallel, may be considered 
 as dividing with Holborn the principal communication and traffic from east to west. 
 
 The church of St. Andrew, on the left of the view, was one which escaped the fire of 
 London, but was found so ruinous that it was entirely rebuilt in 1687, except the tower, 
 which was not erected till 1704. The body of the church is one hundred and five feet 
 long, sixty-three feet broad, and forty-three feet high, and the height of the tower is one 
 hundred and ten feet. The body is well built, and enlightened by two series of windows, 
 and on the top of it runs a handsome balustrade. The tower rises square, and consists only 
 of two stages, crowned with battlements and pinnacles at the corners. The first stage, 
 which is plain, has the dial : in the upper stage there is a very handsome window to each 
 fi-ont ; tall, arched, and decorated with Doric pilasters, which support a lofty arched pedi- 
 ment, decorated within by a shield. The cornice, that crowns the tower, is supported by 
 scrolls ; and the balustrade that rises above this has a very firm base. Each comer of the 
 tower has an ornamental pinnacle, consisting of four large scrolls, which, meeting in a body, 
 support a pine-apple ; and from the crown of the fruit rises a vane. The inside is extremely 
 neat, and well finished. Over the communion-table is a large painted window, the lower 
 part of which represents the Messiah and his disciples at the Last Supper ; and in a com- 
 partment above is represented his resurrection from the grave. The church stands at an 
 
 2G 
 
114 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 advantageous distance from the street, from which it is separated by a wall that incloses the 
 church-yard, and the entrance to it is by large and elegant iron gates. 
 
 The church is a rectory, the patronage of which was originally in the gift of tbe Dean 
 and Canons of St. Paul's, who transferred it to the Abbot and Convent of Bermondsey, who 
 continued patrons of it till their convent was dissolved by Henry VIII., when that prince 
 granted it to Thomas Lord Wriothesley, afterwards Earl of Southampton, from whom it de- 
 scended by marriage to the late Duke of Montague, in whose family the patronage still 
 remains. 
 
 Chukches of St. Mildred, Bread Street, and St. Bartholomew the 
 
 Great, West Smithfield. 
 
 Bread Street, in which the father of Milton resided as a scrivener, contains the parish 
 church of St. Mildred : the front of free-stone, the other parts of brick. The roof is 
 covered with lead, and the floor paved with Purbeck stone. The pulpit and the altar-piece 
 are handsomely adorned ; and the communion-table stands upon a foot-piece of black and 
 white marble. 
 
 On the east side of Smithfield, and at the north end of Duck Lane, stands the parish 
 chvuch of St. Bartholomew the Great. This church was originally a parish chrurch adjoin- 
 ing to that of the priory of St. Bartholomew ; but, when the latter was pulled down to the 
 choir, that part was annexed by the king's order for the enlargement of the old church ; in 
 which manner it continued till queen Mary gave the remnant of the priory chirrch to the 
 Black Friars, who used it as thek conventual church till the first year of queen Elizabeth, 
 when the friars were turned o at, and the church was restored, by act of parliament, to the parish. 
 
 The present church is the same as it stood in the reign of Edward VI., except the 
 steeple, which, being of timber, was taken down in the year 1628, and a new one, of brick 
 and stone, erected. It is a spacious edifice of the Gothic and Tuscan orders, one hundred 
 and thirty-two feet long, fifty-seven broad, and forty-seven high ; and the altitude of the 
 tower is seventy-five feet. 
 
 Church of St. Mary, Lambeth. 
 
 A church stood on the present site till the yeai- 1374, about which time it was rebuilt, 
 there being commissions still preserved, dated in that year, and in 1377, for compelling tlie 
 inhabitants of Lambeth to contribute to the rebuilding of their new church and tower. The 
 tower, which is of free-stone, still remains ; the other parts of the structiu-e appear to have 
 been built at different times. In its present form it consists of a nave, two aisles, and a 
 chancel ; the nave being separated from the aisles by octagonal pillars and pointed arches. 
 The walls are built of flint, mixed with stone and brick ; and both the tower and the body 
 of the church are crowned with battlements. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and is a 
 rectory in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
Daw ^3t The Jl.Ght^herd . 
 
 ST MILDRED. BREAD STREET. 
 
 S9 Eii^3Bid "by T-H 
 
 ST. BARTHOLOMEW. TliE GREAT. 'WEST SMITHFTELD . 
 
 
 ]''.ii^awd. by T . Higham . 
 
 ST. MAKX, ILAMB3ETH. 
 
 .Tmnr-M-A-. r^JTOTmilp nPth&Mn:-.f--. RriR^iiirx) Sm 
 
igra/cd \r K J S'jjrl..iif; 
 
 KMSTEM. B mil!})© IB. 
 
 CriTO "by Tho. B. Stujpkwd 
 M 133 ■ 
 
 EngravwilJy J^ 
 
 }r.(0)HJD)OH b€)(?3m:s, il©©mih(S-. :wiesT. 
 
 jLemple of tlie Miises, JTiasbiiry Square. London, 1831. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 115 
 
 In tlie south-east window of the middle aisle is a painting of a man followed by a dog, 
 which is said to have been put up in compliance with the will of a pedlar, who left a small 
 piece of ground to the parish, on condition that a picture of him and his dog should be put 
 up and preserved in its present situation. Whether this tradition be true or not, there is a 
 piece of ground on the Surrey side of Westminster-bridge called Pedlar's Acre, which con- 
 tains about an acre and nine poles, and belongs to Lambeth parish. Mr. Lysons is of 
 opinion that this tradition originates in a rebus upon the name of the donor, and gives a 
 similar instance from the church of Swaffham, in Norfolk, in which there is a portrait of 
 John Chapman, a great benefactor to the parish, and in different parts of the church the 
 device of a pedlar and his pack. By whatever means Pedlar's Acre became the property 
 of the parish, it must have happened prior to 1504, when it was let for two shUlings and 
 eight-pence per annum. It is now estimated at several hundred pounds a year. 
 
 In this church were interred the mild and amiable prelates, Tunstal, of Durham, and 
 Thiileby, of Ely ; who, being deprived of their sees for their conscientious attachment to 
 the Catholic religion, lived the remainder of their days under the protection, rather than in 
 the custody, of Archbishop Parker, who revered their virtues, and felt for their misfortunes. 
 The body of ThMeby was found in digging a grave for Archbishop Cornwallis. His long 
 and venerable beard, and every part was entire, and of a beautiful whiteness ; a slouched 
 hat was under his left arm, and his dress was that of a pilgrim, as he esteemed himself to 
 be upon earth. 
 
 Westminster Bridge 
 
 Is a structure of that simplicity and grandeur, that, whether viewed from the water, or by 
 the land-passenger, it fills the mind with admiration. This bridge is regarded by architects 
 as one of the most beautiful in the world. It was begun in the year 1738, and finished in 
 1750, and cost £ 389,500. The whole of the superstructure is of Portland stone, except 
 the spandrils of the arches. It is 1223 feet long, and 44 feet wide ; has fifteen large semi- 
 drcular arches. The central arch is seventy-six feet wide ; the other arches decreasing in 
 width five feet. The quantity of stone used in this bridge is said to have been neai'ly 
 double to what was employed in St. Paul's Cathedral. 
 
 Before this bridge was built, the houses in this part of Westminster were very ruinous. 
 Many of these were probably built about Le Wolstaple, held in New Palace-Yard. Henry 
 the Sixth had no less than six wool-houses in this place ; and the conflux of people towards 
 this wool-market caused such an increase, that in time the royal vUlage of Westminster 
 became a town, 
 
 London Docks. 
 
 To form these Docks, great part of the parish of Wapping has been excavated; and these 
 excavations extend from the Thames almost to RatclifF Highway, and are enclosed by a 
 wall of brick, lined with warehouses. St. George's Dock covers the space from Virginia- 
 
\IQ LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUEY. 
 
 Street almost to Old Gravel-Lane in one direction, and is capable of holding 500 ships, with 
 room for sliifting. 
 
 Another, called Shadwell Dock, adjoining, will hold about fifty ships ; and the entrance 
 to both is by three basons, capable of containing an immense quantity of small craft. The 
 inlets from the Thames into the basons are at the Old Hermitage Dock, Old Wapping Dock, 
 and Old Shadwell Dock. The foundation of the entrance bason to these was laid on the 
 26th of June 1802, by the Chancellor of the Exchequer, with the first stone of a tobacco 
 warehouse. Since the conclusion of the late peace with France, this busy scene has under- 
 gone various changes and improvements. 
 
 Russell Square 
 
 Is considerably larger than any other ia London, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields excepted. The 
 seuth side is graced by a pedestrian statue, in bronze, of the late duke of Bedford, by Mr. 
 Westmacott : his grace reposes one arm on a plough ; the left hand holds the gifts of Ceres. 
 Children playing round the feet of the statue, personify the four seasons. To the four 
 comers bulls' heads are attached, in a very high relief; the cavity beneath the upper mould- 
 ings has heads of cattle in recumbent postures. On the carved sides are rural subjects in 
 basso relievo : the first is the preparation for the ploughman's dinner; his wife, on her knees, 
 attends the culinary department ; a youth is also represented sounding a horn ; two rustics 
 and a team of oxen complete the group. The second composition is made up of reapers 
 and gleaners ; a young woman in the centre is delineated with the agreable features and 
 general comeliness of a village favourite. 
 
 These enrichments, the four seasons, and the statue of the duke, ai-e cast in bronze, and 
 are very highly finished. The pedestal is of Scotch granite ; and with the superstructui-e, 
 from the level of the ground to the summit of the monument, measures twenty-seven feet 
 The principal figure is nine feet high. The only inscription in front is, " Francis, Duke of 
 Bedford; erected 1809." 
 
 Bloomsbury Square. 
 
 The north side of this Square is embellished with a statue of the late Right Hon. Charles 
 James Fox. The work consists simply of a statue of colossal dimensions, being to a scale 
 of nine feet in height, executed in bronze, and elevated upon a pedestal of granite, suimount- 
 ing a spacious base, formed of several gradations : the whole is about seventeen feet in height. 
 Dignity and repose appear to have been the leading objects of the ai'tist's ideas ; he has 
 adopted a sitting position, and habited the statue in the consular robe, the ample folds of 
 which, passing over the body, and falling from the seat, give breadth and eflFect to the whole. 
 The right arm is extended, the hand supporting Magna Charta ; the left is in repose. The 
 head is inclined rather forwai-d, expressive of attention, firmness, and complacency : the 
 likeness of Mr. Fox is perfect and striking. The inscription, which is in letters of bronze, 
 is, " Charles James Fox, erected m.dccc.xvi." This statue, and the statue of the lati 
 duke of Bedford, by the same artist (Westmacott), at the other extremity of Bedford-Place, 
 form two grand and beautiful ornaments of the metropolis. 
 
. -f^^^. ■" 
 
 rtrasm "by TbaH. Siepkeri 
 
 ni3o ' " ' 
 
 En^ared "byCSCtrtraia. 
 
 ffiUSSlELlL S^IJAIRE. AH'BSTATrillE OF TME BllTlKE OE" JBE»F©MB. 
 
 IBILOOMSBlUmT Sf^ltrAMJE. AWilJ) STATWJE ©F F©X. 
 
 l: reiapLe af liie Uase.-,. l-in^bxTry S'Tiito-c, Landpii. 1551. 
 
 
Drawn iy The H oliepiierd- 
 
 Entfraved. toy 'B^.Aoan . 
 
 S®M3PirJEms, ©ULTSFTETIB. STmEffiT 
 
 Drawn ly The HSJiBpisra 
 -Pi IS7 
 
 
 Jiaus-L^tfttaHdUHlil^liMlilitliHta 
 
london in the nineteenth century. ii7 
 
 Newgate, Old Bailey, and Giltspur Street Compter. 
 
 Between Snow-hill and Ludgate-hill runs the street called the Old Bailey, which many of 
 our antiquaries are of opinion is a corruption of Bale-hill, an eminence whereon was situ- 
 ated the Bale, or Bailiflfs-house, wherein he held a court for the trial of malefactors ; and 
 this opinion seems to be corroborated by such a court having been held here for many cen- 
 turies, in which there is a place of security, where the sheriffs keep their prisoners during 
 the session, which still retains the name of the Bale-dock. 
 
 On the east side of the Old Bailey, and contiguous to the place where the Newgate of the 
 city formerly stood, is the gaol for the county of Middlesex, which, from being appropriated 
 to the same uses, also bears the name of Newgate. It is a massy stone building, consisting 
 of two parts, that on the north being formerly appropriated for debtors, and that on the south 
 for felons, between which is a dwelling-house, occupied by the keeper. The whole of the 
 front is formed of rustic work, and at the extremities of each face are arched niches for 
 statues. 
 
 Contiguous to this building, and only separated from it by a square court, is Justice-hall, 
 commonly called the Sessions-house. 
 
 This was formerly a plain brick edifice ; but it has since been rebuilt entirely of stone, 
 and is brought so much forwarder than the old one as to be parallel with the street. On the 
 nOTth side, or front, are two flights of steps leading to the court-room, which has a gallery on 
 each side for the accommodation of spectators. The prisoners are brought to this court 
 from Newgate by a passage that closely connects the two buildings ; and there is a con- 
 venient place under the Sessions-house in front, for detaining the prisoners till they are 
 called upon their trials. There are also rooms for the grand and pettit jury, with other 
 necessary accommodations. 
 
 Opposite to the north end of the Old Bailey is Giltspur-street, which leads into Smith- 
 field. On the east side of Giltspur-street, in a line with Newgate, is Giltspur-street 
 Compter. It is composed of three pavilions, crovraed with triangular pediments, and con- 
 nected by two galleries with flat roofs. The whole of this building, like Newgate, is of 
 rustic stone work, but, having arched windows to the front, it has a lighter appearance. 
 
 The comer opposite the north end of this building is remarkable for being the spot where 
 the fire of London terminated : which event is commemorated by the figure of a bloated 
 boy on the corner house, bearing an inscription, purporting that this dreadful conflagration 
 was a punishment for the sin of gluttony. 
 
 Lunatic Hospital, St. Luke's. 
 
 This hospital was first established by voluntary contributions, in the year 1751, for the 
 reception of lunatics, and was intended not only in aid of, but as an improvement upon 
 Beth'lem-hospiital, which, at the time of this institution, was incapable of receiving and 
 
 2 H 
 
118 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 providing for the relief of all the unhappy objects for whom application was made. With 
 this view, a house was erected on the north side of Moorfields, and called St. Luke's-hospital, 
 from the name of the parish : but the utility of the institution was so evident, and benefac- 
 tors increased vrith such rapidity, that the governors soon determined to extend its benefits 
 to a much larger number of patients, aild for that purpose purchased the piece of ground on 
 which the present edifice (the foundation stone of which was laid on the 20th of July, 1782) 
 was erected, at an expense of forty thousand pbundsv 
 
 The north and south fronts of this building, which are of brick, ornamented with stone, 
 are exactly the same. The centre and ends project a little, and are higher than the inter- 
 mediate parts.' The former is crowned by a triangular pediment, under which is inscribed 
 in large letters, " Saint Luke's Hospital for Lunatics." The two latter are surmounted with 
 an attic balustrade, which conceals the roof. The whole building is divided into three 
 stories ; and the spaces between the centre and ends are formed into long galleries ; the 
 female patients occupying the western galleries, and the male the eastern. Between the 
 hospital and, the street is a broad space, separated from the street by a wall, in the centre 
 of which is the entrance, leading to the door by a flight of steps, under a roof supported by 
 Tuscan columns. 
 
 The simple grandeur of the exterior of this building, the length of which is four hundred 
 and ninety-three feet, produces an eflfect upon the mind which is only superseded by a 
 knowledge of the propriety, decency, and regularity, which reign within, notwithstanding 
 the unhappy state of its inhabitants. 
 
 Behind the house are two large gardens, one for the men, the other for the women ; where 
 such of the patients as can be permitted with safety are allowed to walk and take the air. 
 Those in a more dangerous state, who are obliged to be confined with strait waistcoats, have, 
 with very few exceptions, the range of the galleries, in which there are fires, so protected 
 by iron bars, reaching from the floor to the breast of the chimney, that no accident can 
 possibly occur ; and in those cells where the most dangerous and hopeless patients are 
 confined, every thing whiclf can contribute to alleviate their miserable state is attended to. 
 In short, the system of management in this hospital is such, that nothing which can add to 
 the comfort, or tend to the cure of the patients admitted into it, is neglected. 
 
 City of London Lying-in Hospital. 
 
 This building consists of a centre and two wings ; the latter of which project a little from 
 the main building. In the front of the centre is a neat plain pediment In this 
 part of the building is a chapel, with a handsome organ, and the top of it is 
 crowned with a light open turret, terminated by a vane. The wards for the patients are ki 
 the wings, and are eight in number ; each of which is so formed as to contain ten beds : 
 behind the building are regular and convenient ofiices. In the front of the left wing is this 
 inscription : Erecte d by Subscription, MDCCLXXI. ; and in the front of the other 
 wing are these words. Supported by voluntary contributions. On a slip of 
 
ftoiH tfa« name o|" the pa. 
 tors «^ "- '". ' ■■''■ ■ ^ ' 
 to a . 
 wluch th 
 
 *i» 
 
 ta&le 
 
 
 ibe cmimm of tMs baiWing, *«■ 
 
 aad uiui .ace* an eifecl ujwn tht; mind v, ^ : ; 
 
 kno^-ij«;_ , _^: _ , dec:<MCj, and -fegularity, wM'-h reiffo 
 
 tbe unl) ; of il» ishabitaDts 
 
 Behind Uh liuuse are two kn- .-, ..meioi 
 
 siidi of tJw rrf.t;.:ni.s a> can be . ■ «th sal-- 
 
 ■ftasc IB a j! '«»s staJfi, who are obliged t> 
 
 W5 
 
Dtjewtl "br ThQ H, Stiephcrd. 
 rL234 
 
 ■^^P Eiigraarea"by J Gcnigh.. 
 
 C:rcTX ©IF JL.rj;HIG)OH ]LTXH<S-=3tH HO^FJLTAID^ 
 
 Drjcmi "by 12ia H. SJieuh. 
 
 Plies' 
 
 ngrsLvcdfcy J. Gouph. 
 
 IL WMATIC: HOSF1CTA3L, ST. ILUTW.IE'S. 
 
PkMS 
 
 W. Baflrtjffe. 
 
 ©CEffi-S' MAlLILd, F®T[J3L,TmT. 
 
 Dnum "by BioU. Shepheri 
 
 ri yi =i:tfLa by- W ± <ul jlic 
 
 lidIg oC th-e Mifigs. I'msTrorv Square. Londop.lSSL^ 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 119 
 
 stone, in the centre, and also on the south side, are these words, The City of London 
 Lying-in Hospital. 
 
 Though this is a plain building, yet it is very neatly constructed. It stands in an airy and 
 pleasant situation, and is well adapted to the purposes for which it was erected. There is 
 a public baptism of the children bom in it, on the last Sunday in every month, to which 
 persMs may be admitted by tickets, on application to any subscriber. 
 
 This Chkrity was formerly kept in Shaftesbury-house, Aldersgate- street ; where it was in- 
 stituted in the year 1760, by voluntary contributions. 
 
 Grocers' Hall, Poultry. 
 
 At the north end of Grocers' -hall-court is Grocers' -hall. This building is situated on a spot 
 of ground, purchased by the Grocers' company, in the year 1411, of Robert Fitz-Walter, 
 fcJr three hundred and twenty marks. The present structure, which has been recently new 
 fronted and beautifully ornamented, is well designed and executed, for the purposes of a 
 common-hall ; stately, ornamental, and so capacious, that for many years, it served for the 
 uses of the Bank of England, which was kept in this hall till there was aja office buUt on 
 purpose, in Threadneedle-street. This hall contains a portrait and statue of Sir John 
 Cutler (who is said to have bmlt the parlour and dining room over it), created a baronet in 
 1660, of Sir John Moor, Lord Mayor, 1681 ; and Sir John Fleet, Lord Mayor 1692. William 
 Pitt, Earl of Chatham, and the Right Hon. WiUiam Pitt his son, were both members of this 
 Company. 
 
 The Grocers' Company, anciently denominated, pepperers, were incorporated by letters- 
 patent of King Edward HI. in the year 1345 : formerly they had the management of the 
 king's beam in the city, with a right of appointing a master weigher and four porters to 
 attend it. 
 
 This company at one time held the highest rank among the city companies ; for in the reign 
 of HenrylV. there were no less thati twelve of the aldermen, at the same time, belonging 
 to it. It has also been dignified with the names of five kings enrolled among its members. 
 
 Breavers' Hall, Addle Street. 
 
 At the eastern entrance to Addle-Street, is Brewers'-Hall, with a large paved court. The 
 front of this building is on the north side, composed of a rich basement, approaching to the 
 Tuscan order. 
 
 The Brewers' Company, which is the fourteenth among the city companies, was incorpo- 
 rated by King Henry VI. in the year 1438, by the name of " The master, and keepers or 
 wardens, and commonalty of the mystery or art of Brewers of the city of London." King 
 Edward IV. not only confirmed that charter, but granted them a ftirther power to make 
 bye-laws. 
 
120 london in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Church of St. Catherine Cree, Leadenhall. 
 
 At the south-east angle of Cree-church-lane, in Leadenhall- street, stands the church of 
 St. Catherine Cree. This church received its name from being dedicated to St. Catherine, 
 an Egyptian virgin ; and is distinguished from other churches of the same name, by the ad- 
 dition of Cree, or Christ, from its situation in the cemetery of the conventual church of the 
 Holy Trinity, which was originally called Christ-church. 
 
 The present structure was erected in 1630, but repaired and beautified in 1805. It is 
 built of stone, in a mixed style. It has rounded battlements on the top, and a square tower, 
 Vfith battlements of the same kind. This tower is crowned with a square turret, over which 
 is a dome, and from its summit rises the weathercock. The length of the church is ninety 
 feet ; the breadth fifty-one ; the altitude of the roof, which is square, supported by pDasters 
 and columns of the Composite order, is thirty-seven feet ; and that of the steeple is seventy- 
 five feet. 
 
 At the west .end of this church, adjoining to the steeple, stands a pillar of the old church, 
 as originally erected. This pillar, from llie base to the chapiter, upon which the arch was 
 turned, being eighteen feet high, and but three to be seen above ground, shows the height to 
 which the floor of the new church has been raised above that of the old. 
 
 This church is a curacy ; and the parishioners have the privilege of choosing their own 
 minister, who must be licensed by the Bishop of London. 
 
 Church op St. Mildred, Poultry. 
 
 This church is a rectory, and derives its name from its dedication to St. Mildred, a Saxon 
 princess, and its situation. It appears to be of ancient foundation, for John de Asswel was 
 collated to it in the year 1325 ; and in the eighteenth of Edward III. we find it with the 
 Chapel of Corpus Christi and St. Mary de Coneyhope annexed, which chapel stood at the end 
 of Coney hope-lane, or the Rabbit-market, now called Grocers' -hall-court : but being suppressed 
 by King Henry VIII. on account of a fraternity founded therein, it was purchased by one 
 Thomas Hobson, a haberdasher, who turned the chapel into a warehouse. 
 
 The old church, which had been rebuilt in 1450, was burnt down in 1666, after which the 
 present structure was erected, and the parish of St. Mary Colechurch united to it. 
 
 It is a plain substantial stone building, enlightened by a series of large windows, and 
 strengthened with rustic at the corners. The tower is cro\\Tied with a plain course, without 
 pinnacles, or any other ornament. The length of this church is fifty-six feet, its breadth 
 forty-two feet, the height of the roof thirty-six feet, and that of the tower seventy-five feet. 
 Within, it is paved with Purbeck stone, the chancel with the same, mixed with black marble. 
 There is a handsome gallery at the west end. arid a good pulpit. 
 
 The patronage of this church was in tlie convent and prior of St. Mary Overy's, in Sbuth- 
 wark, till the suppression of that religious house, when it came to the crown ; since which 
 time, the lord chancellor presents to the living. 
 
Dtkwh "by ThaH. SlKephera. 
 
 gT„ CATMISmJlMIE CCmE3E, ILIS ABIEHIglAILlL ^TIRIE3E']r, 
 
 n. 256 
 
 Engraved "by J. Gongh. 
 
 ST. afflJLBmE)©, F(n)I[TE.TIE.T. 
 
.Dcawn.'by Tko. H. Shephflrd, 
 
 En.|Dayei "by W: "BTaDio, 
 
 JL(Q)€M: HOSFUTAIL, HTBl^ IPARK €®JRHBIR. 
 
 JJKumby ThaaShenhera, 
 
 Enfraved. "by "W "Wallifi, 
 
 CHRIST'S IBI'niSIPIITAlLi, ME,W©AT]E STB.KET. 
 
 "i (.■xiiplc" ol' the fi'uji-'s, l''ina"bury Sauaro. l^ciidtm iis3i. 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 121 
 
 Christ's Hospital.— The Lock Hospital. 
 
 Christ's Hospital was founded by Edward the Sixth. Of the ancient buildings re- 
 maining, there is an old cloister of the Grey Friars, part of their priory. It serves for a 
 place of recreation for the boys, especially in rainy weather. The reparations which 
 this part underwent by Sir Christopher Wren have nearly deprived it of its ancient 
 a{)pearance. 
 
 The new Grammar-school, which it is now proposed to remove for further improvements, 
 is a very commodious structure, well adapted to its intention. The Writing-school, at the 
 end of the great hall, is very lofty and airy, and was founded by Sir John Moore, Knt. and 
 Alderman of the City ; and contains a desk at which three hundred boys may sit and write. 
 This school rests upon columns, and the space beneath is allotted for play and exercise. Sir 
 John Moore's statue, in white marble, at fiiU length, is placed in the front of the buUding- 
 The expenditure of the whole establishment of this hospital has been estimated at £ 30,000 
 per annum. 
 
 Many great and gross abuses having existed in the disposal of the funds of this hospital, 
 it induced Mr. Waithman, then one of the Common Council, but since Alderman of Far- 
 ringdon without (a man who for talent,- indefatigable perseverance, undaunted courage, and 
 consistency, has ever been one of the brightest ornaments of the city of London) to institute an 
 enquiry, the result of which made it evident, that instead of being a benefit to the children 
 of the poor and friendless, it was engrossed almost exclusively by the rich. It had long 
 been known that presentations, instead of being given, had been regularly sold by 
 some of those who had the disposal of them. It even appeared, that a clergyman 
 in Middlesex, with a living not less than £1200 per annmn, had solicited and 
 received a presentation for one of his sons from a member of the county. — On Thursday? 
 Jan. 25, 1810, Mr. Waithman brought in the report of the committee appointed to consider 
 of the conduct of the governors of Christ's Hospital, which stated, that upon consulting Mr. 
 Samuel Romilly and Mr. Bell, they recommend the petitioning of the Lord Chancellor ; and 
 the committee was therefore requested to prepare a petition accordingly. Unhappily the 
 ineflSciency of this enquiry appeared very striking, after waiting some years for its aid ; as 
 at a meeting of the Common Council, in the beginhing of January, 1816, Mr. Waithman 
 sElid, the way in which the Hospital Committee managed Was, that the members of it were 
 for life, and they elected new ones to fill up the vacancies occasioned by death in their own 
 number. The children were admitted by the almoners ; and, in many instances, the children 
 of persons possessing six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, and even some of £1200 a year 
 had been admitted : yet when an enquiry was instituted into these abuses, he found not one 
 commoner or alderman to stand by his side, or to support him. The great fault lay in the 
 composition of this committee, four or five of whom managed the whole of the affairs of the 
 hospital. The committee ought to be elected annually. He then moved, that this memorial 
 be referred to the committee for enquiring into the affairs of Christ's Hospital. 
 
 2 X 
 
122 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Sir W. Curtis, and others interested in upholding the abuses, proposed referring it to the 
 committee of City Lands, and Mr. Waithman, again foiled in his laudable efforts, withdrew 
 his motion. Much good has however been since effected by his unceasing exertions. 
 
 It is remarkable, that since this perversion of these noble iiinds has been increasing, a 
 circumstance not sufficiently noticed will appear evident in its object to the judicious observer. 
 As testimonies to the original design of this foundation, a statue of a Blue Coat Boy in each 
 of the four corners of the cloisters had, within the recollection of several persons living, the 
 following painted notice underneath : 
 
 " This is Christ's Hospital, where poor Blue Coat Boys are harboured and educated." 
 
 What sacrilegious hand removed this salutary land-mark, set up by the piety of our 
 ancestors, we cannot at this distance of time point out. It would seem that some reasons, 
 not the most commendable, must have been felt for getting rid even of these dumb witnesses; 
 or that modern pride and false refinement could not bear the implication that the objects of 
 this charity were still, as they were originally termed, " The children of poor distressed 
 men and poor distressed women." 
 
 However, that the public may be satisfied with the excellent mode of education pursued 
 in this national institution, the various specimens of the boys' performances are exhibited at 
 stated times in the great hall. 
 
 In a niche over the avenue into the hospital, firom the passage leading from Newgate-Street 
 to the west door of Christ's Church, is the statue of Edward the Sixth. That of Charles 
 the Second embellished the former entrance of the hospital fi:om Newgate-Street, opposite 
 Warwick-Lane, called Grey Friars. 
 
 The Lock Hospital, Grosvenor Place, Pimlico, an engraving of which accompanies 
 the preceding subject, is a spacious and extensive range of Buildings, appropriated for 
 Syphilitic Maladies, Supported by voluntary contributions. 
 
 Church of St. Swithin, London Stone, Cannon Street. 
 
 At the south-west angle of St. Swithin's-Lane, in Cannon-street, stands the parish chiurch 
 of St. Swithin. This church is so called fi'om its being dedicated to St. Swithin, Bishop of 
 Winchester, and chancellor to King Egbert, who died in the year 806. By ancient records 
 it appears that there was a church on this spot, dedicated to the same saint, before the year 
 1331 ; but howlong it was standing before that time is uncertain : however, the old struc- 
 ture was destroyed by the.fire of London, and the present edifice erected in its stead. 
 
 This is a plain solid and strong building of stone, sixty-one feet long, and forty-two broad ; 
 the roof is forty feet, and the steeple one hundred and fifty feet high. The body is well 
 enlightened, and the windows are arched and well proportioned. 
 
 The patronage of this church appears to have been anciently in the prior and convent of 
 Tortington, in the diocese of Chichester, in whom it continued till the dissolution of their 
 monastery; when coming to the cro^yn, Henry VIII., in the year 1540, granted the same, 
 together with a stately mansion, on the north side thereof, where Oxford-court now stands. 
 
-r' 
 
 
 ■ f^-'^m^mm^ 
 
 DraimTjy Ilio.H. SKeplerd 
 
 oj 3 Tia^lp 
 
 ST. SWI[TH]IH, Xi®HJE)©H ^TOMIE, CAHlf©H STRIE]ET„ 
 
 I'U'fS 
 
 EniSrasred by J. 
 
 )T. MECHAlElLo QTUEEH HTTTHIB 
 
 . mrile cf the Muses, ■liits'biiry Square, Landoii,!l£31. 
 
126 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 whence rises a vane, in the form of a dragon. In this steeple aie twelve bells, said to be 
 superior in harmony to any set in England. 
 
 The author of the Critical Review of the Public Buildings, says, " The steeple of Bow- 
 church is a master-piece in a peculiar style of building : it is, beyond question, as perfect 
 as human imagination can contrive or execute ; and, till we see it outdone, we shaU hardly 
 think it to be equalled." 
 
 In digging the foundation of this church. Sir Christopher Wren discovered that part of 
 the ancient Roman colony which ran from the Thames northward. On opening the ground 
 a foundation appeared, firm enough for the intended fabric, which, on inspection, was found 
 to consist of the remains of a temple, or church, of Roman workmanship, entirely buried 
 under the level of the present street. On this he determined to erect the new building; 
 and, as the old church stood about forty feet backward from the high street, by purchasing 
 the ground of one private house, in front, not then rebuilt, he was enabled to bring the 
 steeple forward, so as to range with the houses in Gheapside. Here, to his great surprise, 
 he sunk about eighteen feet through made ground, and then imagined that he was come to 
 the natural soil and hard gravel; but, on farther inspection, it appeared to be a Roman 
 causeway, of rough stone, close and well rammed with Roman brick and rubbish at the 
 bottom, aU firmly cemented. On this causeway, which was four feet thick. Sir Christopher 
 determined to lay the foundation of the tower and steeple, as being most proper to bear a 
 weighty and lofty structure. Some alarm having arisen as to the safety of the latter, it has, 
 within these few years, undergone a complete repair. 
 
 Chqrch of St. Mary Magdalen, Old Fish Street. 
 
 On the north side of Knight-rider Street, at the west comer of the Old Change, stands 
 the parish church of St. Marj^ Magdalen, Old Fish-street ; so called from its dedication to 
 that saint, and its ancient situation in the fish-market, the principal part of which was in 
 that street. 
 
 This church was a vicarage, in the tenure of the canons of St. Paul's, in the year 1181 ; 
 but for some ages past it has been a rectory, in the gift of the dean and chapter of St. Paul's. 
 The old edifice was destroyed by the fire of London; and the present structure was erected 
 in the year 1685. 
 
 This is a small but well-proportioned church, built with stone, and enlightened by a 
 single series of arched windows, each ornamented with a cherub and scrolls, supporting a 
 cornice which runs round the building ; but these windows are so high from the groimd 
 that the doors open completely under them. The tower is divided into two stages, in the 
 upper of which is a large window on each side. From the top of the tower the work 
 diminishes, in the manner of high steps, on each side ; and on the top of these is a turret 
 with a very short spire, on which is placed a vase, with flames. 
 
Drawn lyy Tho. H. Sbqiherd.. 
 M.24S 
 
 EiiQra"Vt;d. "h/ T Hu i~li1iff 
 
 <S® ®FJE,IE.-'S° M^ILILs IBA§]ISf©IBIAXi]L ST. 
 
 Zngi-aveO. ty J. ffintilifl". 
 
 ax; 
 
 BLACKPRIAKS. 
 
 ^le o!' the, Miii^t'.-.i'iji^LiTiry £'-c];iLare.LoncLan. iy31. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 127 
 
 To. this parish is annexed that of St. Gregory, the church of which stood at the south-west 
 corner of St. Paul's cathedral. It is a rectory of very ancient foundation, and took its name 
 from Pope Gregory the Great, who sent Austin, the monk, to convert the English nation to 
 Christianity. The patronage of it is in the dean and chapter of St. Paul's, who are both 
 patrons and ordinaries. After its destruction by the fire of London, the ground on which it 
 stood was laid into St. Paul's charch-yard. 
 
 Coopers' Hall, Basinghall Street, 
 
 Is a stately well-built edifice of brick, nearly opposite to Sambrook court, in Basinghall 
 Street. The interior forms a very handsome room, wainscoted to the height of fourteen feet, 
 and paved with marble, and was used for the drawing of the lottery. 
 
 The company was incorporated in 1501, by letters patent of King Henry VII., under the 
 title of " The Masters, Wardens, and Assistants of the company of Coopers of London and 
 suburbs thereof;" and in the succeeding reign was empowered, by an act of parliament, to 
 search and gauge all beer, ale, and soap vessels, within the city of London and two miles 
 round its suburbs, for which they were allowed a farthing for each cask. They are governed 
 by a master, three wardens, and twenty- assistants. 
 
 Apothecaries' Hall, 
 
 Within the precinct of Blackfriars, on the east side of Water-lane, stands Apothecaries' 
 HaU. 
 
 This is a handsome building, with a pair of gates in front that lead into a paved coiu:t ; at 
 the upper end of which is a flight of stairs leading into the hall-room, which is built with 
 brick and stone, and adorned with columns of the Tuscan order. The ceiling of the court- 
 room and of the hall are elegantly ornamented with fret-work ; the wall is wainscoted 
 fourteen feet high, and adorned with the bust of Dr. Gideon Delaun, apothecary to king 
 James I., and with several pieces of exceedingly good painting ; among which are portraits of 
 king James I., and of the gentleman who procured their charter, and who had been obliged 
 to leave France for religion. 
 
 In this building are two large laboratories, one for chemical and the other for galenical 
 preparations ; where great quantities of the best medicines are prepared for the use of 
 apothecaries and others ; particularly for the surgeons of the royal navy, who here furnish 
 their chests with all useful and necessary medicines. 
 
 This company was incorporated at first with tlie grocers, in the year 1606 ; but, such a 
 connection not answering the purposes of their incorporation, they were separated by another 
 charter granted by king James I. in the year 1617, and incorporated by the name of " The 
 Masters, Wardens, and Society of the art and mystery of Apothecaries of the city of 
 London :" at which time there were no more than 104 apothecaries' shops within the city 
 and suburbs .of London. 
 
J28 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 The members of this company, who by divers acts of parliament are exempt from ward 
 and parish oflBces, are governed by a master, two wardens, and twenty-one assistants. 
 
 Church of St. Sepulchre, Snow Hill. 
 
 This chm-ch, which is so dedicated in commemoration of our Saviour's sepulchre or gi-ave 
 at Jerusalem, is now a spacious building, but not so large as of old time, part of the site of 
 it being let out upon a building lease. It is supposed to have been founded about the year 
 1100, at which time a particular devotion was paid to the holy sepulchre; and was so de- 
 cayed in the reign of Edward IV. as to require rebuilding. Roger, bishop of Salisbury, in 
 the reign of Henry I. gave the patronage of this church to the prior and convent of St. Bar- 
 tholomew, in West Smithfield, who established a perpetual vicarage in it, and held it till 
 their dissolution, when it fell to the crown. King James I., in the seventh year of his reign, 
 granted the rectoiy and its appurtenances, and the advowson of this vicarage, to Francis 
 Philips, and others ; after which the parishioners purchased the rectoiy and its appurte- 
 nances, and held them in fee-farm of the crown. And the advowson of the vicarage was 
 purchased by the president and fellows of St. John Baptist College, Oxon, who continue 
 patrons thereof. 
 
 The present structure was much damaged by the fire of London in 1666. The outward 
 walls and tower were, however, capable of reparation ; and the middle aisle of the chmxh 
 was at the same time made with an arched roof, which was not so originally. 
 
 This church, in its present situation, measiu-es 126 feet in length, exclusive of the broad 
 passage at the west end; the breadth, exclusive of the north chapel, is fifty-eight feet. The 
 height of the roof in the middle aisle is thirty-five feet ; and the height of the steeple, to the 
 top of the pinnacles, is 146 feet. The body of the church is enlightened with a row of very 
 large Gothic windows, Avith buttresses between, over which runs a slight cornice ; and on 
 the top a plain and substantial battlement work, in the style of the public buildings in the 
 reign of Edward IV. The steeple is a plain square tower, crowned with four pinnacles. 
 
 Church of St. Olave, Toolet Street. 
 
 Though it cannot be ascertained at what time a church was first situated on this spot, yet 
 it is mentioned as early as the year 1281. However, part of theold'church falling down in 1736, 
 and the rest being in a ruinous condition, the parishioners applied to parliament for a power 
 to rebuild it, which being gi-anted,the remains of the old building were taken down in the year 
 ]737, and the present structure finished in 1739. It consists of a plain body, strengthened 
 with rustic quoins at the corners ; the door is well-proportioned, without ornament, and the 
 windows are placed in three series ; the lowest is upright, but considerably broad ; those 
 above them circular, and the others on the roof are large and semi-circular. The tower con- 
 sists of three stages, the uppermost of which is considerably diminished: in this is the clock, 
 
Ura.wrL "by Tho, K. SlipplieTd, 
 
 n. 150 
 
 Enfira-vei "by S. Lace" 
 
 ^T. glEIPTDriLC'MS^IEX ^MEMWISB. gTMMlET,. 
 
 n. Ml ■■ 
 
 EnficsDred. "by S I.acey 
 
 STo (n)IL,A-^:iB , T®®I.ffiX gTiaffilSTC. 
 
Itasm "by Tho H. Sieplierd. 
 
 Engraved "by A-Croae. 
 
 SX. BAH.THOJL OMIEWS JEOSPIETAId^ 
 
 Engraved liy A. Croaa 
 
 TOCK EKcniffiAHdJE. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUKY. 129 
 
 and in the stages below are large windows. The top of the tower is surrounded by a plain 
 substantial balustrade, and the whole has an air of plainness and simplicity. 
 This parish is a rectory, the patronage of which is in the gift of the crown. 
 
 St. Bartholomew's Hospital, West Smithfield. 
 
 On the east side of Smithfield is the magnificent hospital of St. Bartholomew, which ap- 
 p^iTS to have been the first establishment of this natiu-e in London, having been founded in 
 the year 1102, by Rahere, minstrel to Henry I., who, quitting his gay life, founded a priory 
 of black canons, which he dedicated to St Bartholomew, and became himself the first prior. 
 He afterwards obtained from the king a piece of waste ground, on which he built an hos- 
 pital for a master, brethren, and sisters, and for the relief of the diseased and maimed poor, 
 which he placed under the care of the priory. 
 
 Both the priory and hospital were sm-rendered to Henry VIII., who, in the last year of 
 his reign, refounded the latter, and endowed it with an annual revenue of 500 marks, on 
 condition that the city should pay an equal sum ; which proposal being accepted, the new 
 foimdation was incorporated by the name of " The Hospital of the Mayor, Commonalty, 
 and Citizens of London, Governors for the Poor, called Little St. Bartholomews, near West 
 Smithfield." Since this time the hospital has received considerable benefactions from cha- 
 ritable persons, by which means the governors have been enabled to admit all indigent 
 persons maimed by accident, at any hour of the day or night, without previous recommend- 
 ation ; and the sick on Thursdays, on which days a committee of governors sit to examine 
 persons applying for admission. The patients, whether sick or maimed, are provided with 
 lodging, food, medicine, and attendance, and have the advice and assistance of some of the 
 most eminent physicians and surgeons in the kingdom. 
 
 Notwithstanding the old building escaped the dreadful fire in 1666, yet the chief part of 
 its revenues being in houses, the hospital was greatly injured by that calamity. In the year 
 1729, the hospital became so ruinous that there appeared an absolute necessity for rebuilding 
 it ; and a subscription was entered into by many of the governors and other charitable 
 persons, among whom was Dr. Ratclifie, for defraying the expense, upon a plan then pre- 
 pared, containing four detached piles of stone building, to be connected by gateways, and to 
 form a quadrangle. 
 
 The first stone of this building was laid on the 9th of June, 1730, by Sir George Brocas, 
 the lord mayor, in the presence of several aldermen and governors ; and the eastern side of 
 the square, which completed the whole, being finished in 1770, it is now one of the most 
 pleasing structures in London, when viewed from the area within, which it surrounds, and 
 where only it can be seen to advantage. ' 
 
 That part which opens to Smithfield, and which may be esteemed the principal front, is 
 allotted for the public business of the hospital. It contains a large hall for the general 
 courts of the governors' j a counting house for the meetings of committees; rooms for 
 examining, admitting, and discharging patients ; with other necessary offices. In this part 
 
 2 1. 
 
130 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 of the building is a stair-case painted and given by the late Mr. Hogarth, consisting of two 
 pictures, representing the good Samaritan and the pool of Bethesda ; which, for truth of 
 colouring and expression; are thought to equal any thing of the tind in Europe. 
 
 In the hall is a full-length portrait of Henry VIII., and another of Dr. RatclifTe, who be- 
 queathed a£500 per annum to the hospital, for the improvement of the diet, and £100 per 
 annum to purchase linen for the patients. There is also a fine portrait of Percival Pott, 
 esq., many years an eminent surgeon to this hospital, painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 
 The centre of the great quadrangle has been ornamented with a curious cylindrical pump 
 enclosed within a handsome iron railing, for the use of the hospital. The water is drawn 
 from a very deep spring on the spot, evidently connected with another spring, which supplies 
 Whitbreald's brewery in ChisweU Sti-eet, because when much water was drawn at either 
 place, the other failed. 
 
 Stock Exchange, Capel Court, 
 
 Is opposite the east entrance to the Bank, at the upper end of Capel Comt, which derived its 
 name from the house of Sir William Capel, a lord mayor in 1503. This is a neat plain 
 building, fronted with stone to the attic story, which is of brick, and erected in 1801, by Mr. 
 James Peacock, the architect. The expense was defrayed by a subscription among the 
 principal stock-brokers of ^£50 transferable shares. No person is allowed to transact business 
 here unless baUotted annually by a committee : persons so chosen subscribe fifteen guineas 
 each. Under the clock, at the south end, is a tablet, exhibiting the names of such de- 
 faulters as have not been able or willing to make their payments good, for the purchase or 
 transfer of stock, and who are not allowed to become members any more. On the east side, 
 a recess is appropriated for the commissioners for the redemption of the national debt, who 
 make their purchases four times a week. The hom's of business here are from ten to four ; 
 and there are three enti-ances besides that in Capel Court 
 
 King's Bench Prison, St. George's Fields. 
 
 At the south-west corner of Blackman Street, in the road to the Obelisk, St. George's 
 Fields, is situated the King's Bench Prison, for debtors, and every one sentenced by the 
 Court of King's Bench ; but those who can purchase the liberties have the benefit of walking 
 through Blackman Street, a part of the Borough, and in St. George's Fields. This building 
 is surrounded by a very high wall. Prisoners in any other jail may remove hither by 
 Habeas Corpus. This prison contains at least 300 rooms : the number of people confined 
 here is greater ; and decent accommodations are much more expensive than in the Fleet- 
 
Drawn Tj7 Tho H. Srhcpaieri. 
 
 11^ (BB BIEMCM Fffi-IS 
 
 PEINCIPAL EN TRAIT CB. 
 
 nrown "by Tho, H. S^iepberfl. 
 
 I'um 
 
 En^ra.Tei "by J. GEUmer. 
 
 gAJn)IL,ffiIK.'S WJglL^If^S T5BIEATM.JB, 
 
Drawn try- Tho.lt ShflpTiercL, 
 FU157 
 
 WEST IIHID)]IA IMFCDIET ©©(CM, F(D)FILAR<. 
 
 
 rta-vm ty Thi3, K Shepherd, 
 PU 158. 
 
 En&'n.ved. tnc H. Jordsn.. 
 
 ST. KATM A mike's BOCKS, ]P]E©M THE BASIMo 
 
london in the nineteenth century. 131 
 
 Sadler's Wells' Theatre, Spa Fields. 
 
 Near the east end of the New River Reservoir is a small summer theatre, called Sadler's 
 WeUs ; the amusements of which, like those of all the minor theatres, are limited to the 
 representation of burlettas, ballets, pantomimes, and various feats of activity. This place of 
 entertainment originated in the salubrious qualities of a well, formerly famed for the extra- 
 ordinary cures eflfected by it, in certain diseases, but which was filled up, by the authority 
 of government at the Reformation, to check the impositions of the priests of the priory of 
 Clerkenwell, who extorted money from the people, by making them believe that the virtues 
 of the water proceeded from the efiicacy of their prayers. The concourse of visitors had 
 induced the proprietors to have music at their house, and concerts were constantly performed 
 there : but the well being closed, the place declined, the music ceased, and the virtues of 
 the water were forgotten. This once celebrated weU was again discovered in the year 
 1683, by one of the labourers of Mr. Sadler, who had rebuilt the music house there, and 
 renewed the former concerts ; since which time it has continued to be opened, with per- 
 formances of different descriptions, according to the talents or the taste of its managers. 
 The present building, wholly of brick, was erected in 1765, and has since undergone many 
 alterations. Under the excellent management of Mr. Charles Dibdin, the performances 
 here have been improved beyond any precedent in places of this description. The inside 
 has been lately rebuilt at the expense of ^£1500, in a very splendid style, forming a neat 
 semi-circle, and the aquatic exhibitions produce a very striking effect. 
 
 West India Docks, Isle of Dogs. 
 
 If, with natural advantages alone, the Thames is of the greatest importance to the City of 
 London, to what immense extent must its value be increased by the modem improvements 
 on it ! The great increase of trade in the port of London required additional convenience 
 for loading and unloading vessels, and hence the various extensive docks which have been 
 constructed on the north banks of the Thames were undertaken. 
 
 Those appropriated for the use of the West India trade are whoUy on the Isle of Dogs ; 
 a name given to it on account of the noise the King's hounds made when the court was 
 kept at Greenwicii. The northern one is for receiving loaded vessels inwards, covering an 
 extent of thirty acres, and affording accommodation for fi-om 2 to 300 ships, such as are 
 used in that trade, at one time. The southern one, which is appropriated to loading vessels 
 outwards, occupies a space of twenty-four acres. The openings into these docks axe at 
 Blackwall and Limehouse, and there is an extensive range of wai-ehouses all round them 
 for storing West India produce, the whole of which must be landed here. 
 
 South from these docks, and in a line parallel to them, is a canal across thelsle of Dogs, 
 by which ships are enabled to avoid a very circuitous passage round that peninsula, in 
 their course up and down the river, on payment of a small sum in proportion to their bulk. 
 
132 X.ONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 St. Katherine Docks, Tower. 
 
 Oil the site of the present great commercial establishment, which, as docks, afford 
 facilities and advantages of the first importance to the metropolis, formerly stood the collegiate 
 church and hospital of St. Katherine, situated on the east side of the Tower, in a small open 
 space called St. Katherine's Square: it belonged originally to an hospital founded in 1148, 
 by Matilda, consort to King Stephen. The old foundation was dissolved and refounded, in 
 1273, by Queen Eleanor, relict of Henry III. Queen Philippa, consort to Edward III,, 
 was a great benefactress to this hospital, as was King Henry VI., who not only confirmed 
 all the former grants, and made several additional ones, but gave an ample charter to it. 
 It was exempt fi-om the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London, till its suppression by Henry 
 VIII., soon after which, Edward VI. annexed it to that diocese ; leaving the patronage 
 however, in the hands of the Queens of England, according to the disposition of its re- 
 foundress. The church, which was a very handsome Gothic building, and collegiate, has a 
 master, whose situation is a valuable sinecure, and three brethren, who have forty pounds 
 each ; three sisters, who have twenty pounds ; and ten beads-women, who have eight 
 pounds per annum each ; and six poor scholars. This church being pulled down to make 
 way for the present docks, a splendid building in lieu of it, has been erected in the Regent's 
 Park, of which an engraving and description is given in the other volume of the present 
 work. 
 
 Church op St. Clement, East Cheap. 
 
 In Clement's lane, at the western extremity of Eastcheap, stands the parish church of St. 
 Clement, Eastcheap. 
 
 This church was dedicated to St. Clement, disciple of St. Peter, the Apostle, who was 
 ordained Bishop of Rome in the year 93 ; and it received the addition of Eastcheap from 
 its situation, and to distinguish it from other churches dedicated to the same saint. The 
 date of its foundation is lost ; but William de Southlee appears to have been rector of it 
 prior to the year 1309; and, before the suppression of religious houses, it was in the gift of 
 the abbot and convent of St. Peter's, Westminster. But, in the first year of her reign 
 Queen Mary gave the advowson thereof to the Bishop of London, whose successors have 
 continued patrons of it from that time to the present. 
 
 The old church was burnt down in 1666, and the present building was erected in 1686. 
 It is a neat, though plain, structure, of the Composite order, having a square tower, finished 
 with a balustrade round the top. The lengtli of this church is sixty-four feet, its breadth 
 forty feet, the height of the roof thirty-four feet, and that of the tower eighty-eight feet. It 
 is a rectory, and the living was considerably augmented by the parish of St. Martin Orgar 
 being annexed to it. 
 
Ilca.-wa "by Tho H. Shepkepd 
 
 FIJS9 
 
 ST. CLEMENT'S CHURCH, CLEMEWTS LAME. 
 
 p^lgQ Eiigr«»sdT>)rJ CAcni)rt.|e 
 
 ST. BEMMET EINK, THEDADMEEDLE STREET. 
 
 Di'a-wa'bjrThoH.ShepleTa, 
 
 met 
 
 Ji!Dgr'avcd_ "by J C ftj-iriy- 
 
 iimffisrM©H(Effims' ^ks^i^. iriEMsmTtTmcm sirmKJSx 
 
londo^ in the nineteenth century. 133 
 
 Church of St. Bennet Fink, Theeadneedle Steeet. 
 
 This church is so called from its dedication to St. Benedict, an Italian saint, and founder 
 of the order of Benedictine monks ; and it received the additional name of Fink from one 
 Robert Fink, who rebuilt it. It is of ancient foundation, and, though at present only a curacy, 
 yet was originally a rectory ; John de Branketree being rector thereof, before the year 
 1323. The patronage of this church, which was formerly in the family of the Nevils, falling 
 to the crown. King Edward IV. gave it to the Dean and Chapter of Windsor ; and, the im- 
 propriation being in the said dean and chapter, it is supplied by one of the canons, who is 
 licensed by the Bishop of London. 
 
 The old church being destroyed by fire, in 1666, the present building was erected in 
 1673. The body is of an elliptical form, enlightened by large arched windows, which 
 reach to the roof. This is encompassed with a balustrade, and crowned with a lantern ; a 
 dome rises upon the whole extent of the -tower, and on its top is a turret. The church-yard 
 was given to the parishioners, as a free burial place, without any expense. 
 
 Ieonmongers' Hall, Fenchuech Steeet. 
 
 On the north side of Fenchurch-street is a very noble hall, erected in the year 1748, by 
 the Ironmongers, for transacting their affairs as a body corporate. This edifice is entirely 
 fronted with stone, and the whole lower story is wrought in mstic. The centre part of the 
 building projects a little ; and in this are a large arched entrance and two windows, with 
 two others on each side. Over this rustic story rises the superstnicture, which has a light 
 rustic at the corners, to keep up a correspondence with the rest of the building : the part 
 which projects is ornamented with four Ionic pilasters, coupled, but with a large interco- 
 lumniation. In the middle is a very noble Venetian window, and over it a circular one. In 
 each space, between the pilasters, is a smaller window, with an angular pediment ; and 
 over these are also circular ones ; but the sides have arched windows, with square ones over 
 them. The central part is crowned with a pediment, supported by these pilasters, and in 
 its plane are carved the arms of the company, with handsome decorations in relievo. The 
 rest of the building is terminated by a balustrade crowned with vases. 
 
 The Ironmongers' company was incorporated by charter from King Edward IV. in the 
 year 1464, and is the tenth of the twelve principal companies in this city. It was incor- 
 porated by the name and style of "The master and keepers, or wardens, and commonalty of 
 the art or mystery of Ironmongers of London." And, by virtue of the said charter, the 
 government of this fraternity is now in a master, two wardens, and a court of assistants, 
 which consists of the whole livery, and represents the commonalty or whole freedom. 
 
 2 M 
 
J34 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Fleet Prison, Farringdon Street. 
 
 On tlie east side of what was called Fleet Market, but now Farringdon Street, is the 
 Fleet Prison. The body, inclosed with houses, and very high walls,- is a handsome lofty 
 brick building, of a considerable length, with galleries in eveiy story, which reach from one 
 end of the house to the other. On each side of these galleries are rooms for the prisoners. 
 All manner of provisions are brought into this prison every day, and cried as in the public 
 streets. Here also is a coffee-house, a tap, and an ordinary, with a large open area for 
 exercise. This prison is properly that belonging to the Courts of Chancery and Common 
 Pleas ; and the keeper is called the Warden of the Fleet, a place of considerable confidence 
 and emolument, arising from the fees, the rent of the chambers, &c. 
 
 Probably the most authentic statement respecting the economy of this prison is to be 
 found in the evidence of Nicolas Nixon, Esq., delivered before the Committee of the House 
 of Commons, he being then the Deputy and sole Acting Warden. The other officers within 
 the prison, besides his clerk, were tliree turnkeys, one watchmen, and one scavenger, all 
 paid by the wardens. 
 
 Nothing can be publicly sold within the prison without the authority of the Warden or 
 liis Deputy. The beer and ale coming into the prison and sold at the tap are on the credit 
 of the Deputy. The license for selling wine has been many yeai-s discontinued. The sale 
 of all spirituous liquors within the prison is prohibited by Act of Parliament. There is a 
 penalty on their admission. The cook and the racket-master, being officers of the prisoners, 
 are elected by them ; they ai-e elected twice a year. The priority of chummage, or admission 
 to rooms in the prison, is by rotation, or seniority, among such prisoners as have paid their 
 entrance fees. A few among the very oldest prisoners are exempted from chummage, i. e. 
 from having any others put into their rooms. When a prisoner cannot pay for his clearance 
 out of prison, the fees are always paid by some of the charitable societies. Prisoners who 
 are supersedable have their rooms taken from them. The distinction between the Master's 
 side and the Common side is, that for the former the entrance fee is paid ; for the latter no 
 fee at all. Prisoners who swear they are not worth five pounds in the world, are allowed 
 the benefit of the begging gi-ate, and take it in rotation, each man twenty-four hoiu-s. 
 besides this, there are sometimes charitable donations, which are distributed among the very 
 poorest prisoners. The £500 per ann., granted by the act, is distributed among the poor 
 prisoners indiscriminately. Some of the poor prisoners wait upon the wealthy ones, and 
 gain some relief that way. The room rents on the Master's side are fifteen pence each ; 
 they are in general paid for weekly, but a prisoner cannot be turned out of a room for non- 
 payment, unless a quarter's rent be accumulated. The racket-masters, who are paid so 
 much per game, make about a guinea a week each, by their situations. The pastime lias 
 been approved by the Court as healthful. 
 
 At eleven, oil, candles, and fires, are ordered to be put out in the coffee-house and tap ; 
 l)iit riots and in-egularities arc frequently complained of. Every thing practicable is done 
 
Dra.-7vii "by Tbo.H, Stieplierd 
 
 Fhiez. 
 
 .xiA^asrcd. Tsy J xterLBTialL 
 
 S^. AKTB TieilE IFEdlSI^^ 3pmii:^®,w. 
 
 Era-tra "by -Tko. H. Shepherd.. 
 
 Engrscved. "by J Henahall 
 
 FdSOEJroXiJXM© mO^JPltTAIL, ffiTDniLlD)]? 
 
 sicisjsraT. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. I35 
 
 to repress those. Since the passing of what is called the "Three Months Act," the prisoners 
 are less moral than they were before; for prisoners in general contrive to procure money to 
 maintain them dming the three months, and they are less careful of their behaviour. 
 Strangers are obliged to quit the prison between ten and half-past ten o'clock. Two clubs 
 ai-e established in the prison ; one on Monday nights in the tap-room ; the other on Thursday 
 nights in the coffee-room. Strangers are admissible to both. 
 
 The prison is well secured against fire, all the rooms but those on the top gallery being 
 arched with brick. The chapel is very badly attended ; there are no means of enforcing the 
 rule for the attendance of the prisoners. The prison gates are locked during Divine Service • 
 at other times, upon an average, the key turns about once in a minute. The number of 
 prisoners within the walls, and in the rules for the then last three years, averaged about 
 three hundred. The Court of Common Pleas sends an officer of their own four times a year 
 to visit the prison, immediately before each term. The circumference of the rules is about 
 thi'ee-fourths of a mile. Prisoners are entitled to this on giving sufficient security to the 
 warden. There are day rules in Term time, every day the Coiurt sits. The ordinary 
 expence of a day's rule to a prisoner is two pounds seven shillings for the whole, if the 
 charge be under £500 ; in addition to this, four shillings and sixpence are paid for each day. 
 Several of the prisoners live most luxuriously within the walls, as well as in the rules, and 
 this they all seem inclined to do, as far as their means will admit. 
 
 The ground on which this prison, and the buildings up to Skinner-Street, now stand, 
 formed the eastern shore of the Town Ditch, denominated Fleet Ditch, which was navigable 
 for small vessels nearly as high as Holborn Bridge, before the Fire of London. In 17-3.3 it 
 was completely arched over between that place and the south end of Fleet Mai-ket. Still, 
 on the south side of Fleet-Street, a " genuine and muddy ditch" was scarcely concealed fi-om 
 the public eye by a range of stone buildings, consisting of the watch-house, &c., for St. 
 Bride's parish, built upon an arch over the ditch. The Obelisk, at the north end of New 
 Bridge Street, erected in the mayoralty of John Wilkes, Esq., in 1775, marks the extent of 
 this ditch till that period, when it was completely filled up, and when the fine range of 
 buildings between that and the water side rose in its stead. 
 
 Foundling Hospital, Lamb's-Conduit Street. 
 
 The Foundling hospital is a handsome building, and consists of two large wings directly 
 opposite to each other, one of which is for the boys, and the other for the girls. They are 
 built of brick, in a plain, but regular, substantial, and convenient manner, and with hand- 
 some piazzas. At the farthest end is the chapel, which is joined to the wings by an arch 
 on each side, and is very elegant within. In the front is a large piece of ground, on each 
 side whereof is a colonnade of great length, which also extends towards the gates that are 
 double, with a massy pier between them, so that coaches may pass and repass at the same 
 time. These colonnades are now enclosed, and contain ranges of workshops, where the 
 children are taught to spin, weave, and exercise other handicrafts. The large area between 
 
^36 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 the gates and the hospital is adorned with grass plats, gravel walks, and lamps erected upon 
 handsome posts ; besides which there are two convenient gardens. 
 
 In erecting these buildings, particular care was taken to render them neat and substantialj 
 without any costly decorations ; but the first wing of the hospital was scarcely inhabited 
 when several eminent masters in painting, camng, and other of the polite arts, were pleased 
 to contribute many elegant ornaments, which are preserved as monuments of the abilities 
 and charitable benefactions of the respective artists. Among these are several fine paintings 
 ^by Hogarth, Hayman, Wilson, Gainsborough, &c. 
 
 The altar-piece in the chapel, which is most beautifully executed,) is accounted one of 
 Mr. West's best productions. It was painted for Macklin's Bible, and the subject is, 
 " Except ye become as little children," &c. 
 
 The first organ was presented by Mr. Handel, and was rendered particularly useful in 
 the infancy of the institution, by that gentleman performing on it at certain times for the 
 benefit of the charity; hut this organ having biecome defective, through time and use, a new 
 one was put up in its stead. 
 
 Church of St. George, Hanover Square. 
 
 West of St. James's parish is that of St. George, Hanover Square, the church of which 
 stands in Great George Street. 
 
 This parish was taken out of St. Martin's in the Fields. The commissioners for building 
 the fifty new churches appointed by virtue of an act of parliament passed in the reign of 
 Queen Anne, observing the want of one in this part of the town, on account of the great 
 increase of buildings and inhabitants, erected this elegant structure, which was finished in 
 1724, and in compliment to the reigning monarch was dedicated to St. George the Martyr. 
 It has a plain body, with an elegant, portico; the columns are Corinthian, of a large 
 diameter, and the pediment has an acroteria, but without further ornament. The tower is 
 elegantly adorned at the comers, with coupled Corinthian columns that are very lofty; these 
 are crowned with an entablature, which, at each comer, supports two vases ; and over these 
 the tower still rises, till it is terminated by a dome, crowned with a turret, that supports a 
 ball, over which is a vane. 
 
 It is a rectory, the patronage of which is in the Bishop of London. 
 
 The ground on which this church stands was given by Lieutenant General William 
 Stewart, who also bequeathed four thousand pounds to the parish, towards erecting and en- 
 dowing a charity school 
 
 Church of St. George, Bloomsbury. 
 
 To the east and north of St. Giles's parish is that of St. George, Bloomsbtu-y, the church 
 of which stands in Hart-street. 
 
DtoTO. "W Tho. H. Shepleri. 
 nd74 
 
 Fins 
 
 Eaorav«a <y \! U bl" 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, HANOVER SQUARE. 
 
 ST. GEORGE'S, BLOOMSBTJRY. 
 
 ^a-w. "by Tho. H. Shcp"heixt 
 11 176 
 
 BnA^H-Ved Ijj W. iJeeble 
 
 IMTEKE®!® (Q)'0AB]RAM(EX,E, SOMUEIESJET MCSWSJE. 
 
BDOmtyTlio H SEieplitra- 
 
 CANONBtTRY TOWEI!.. ISLINGTON. 
 62 
 
 TTTigT^nwa "byBKBanl 
 
 ST T Sh TCT ISLINGTON. 
 
 Iravm ^7 T F Shepherd 
 
 Xngraycd "bvB'WBimfl.. 
 
 )ILJi]) ©UriSffiHS HI. 
 
 ISLINGTON. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 137 
 
 This is one of the fifty new churches appointed to be built by act of parliament within 
 the bills of mortality. The name of St. George was given to it in honour of his late 
 majesty ; and it received the additional epithet of Bloomsbury from its situation in the 
 ancient village of Lomesbuiy, corruptly called Bloomsbury, to distinguish it from others of 
 the same name. It is likewise farther distinguished by standing north and south. 
 
 Mr. Walpole calls this building a master-piece of absurdity. The portico on the south 
 side is of the Corinthian osder, and makes a very good figure in the street, but has no 
 affinity with the church, which is plain and heavy, and might have corresponded with a 
 Tuscan portico. The tower and steeple on the west side is a very extraordinary structure; 
 On the top, standing on a round pedestal or altar, is a colossal statue of George I., supported 
 by a square pyramid ; at the corners of which, near the base, are a lion and unicorn, alter- 
 nately, the first with his heels in the air, and between them are festoons : these animals, 
 being very large, are injudiciously placed over very small columns, which makes them appear 
 monsters. The under part of the tower is not less heavy than the church, but in style is 
 wholly unconnected with it. 
 
 This church was erected at the public expense, and consecrated in January, 1731. A 
 district, for its parish, was, by authority of parliament, taken out of that of St. Giles, and 
 the sum of three thousand pounds was given towards the support of its rector, to which one 
 thousand two hundred and fifty pounds being added, by the inhabitants of St. Giles's 
 parish, both sums were ordered to be laid out in the purchase of lands, tenements, &c., in 
 fee simple, as a perpetual fund for the maintenance of the rector and his successors ; but 
 the poor of this parish, and that of St. Giles in the Fields, are to be maintained by the 
 joint assessment of both parishes, in the same manner as before their being divided. 
 
 This church is a rectory, in the gift of the crown, but cannot be held in commendam ; 
 and all licenses to that effect are made void by the act of parliament for separating this 
 parish from St. Giles's- The following epitaph, intended for the architect of this church, is 
 a severe but humorous critique on his bad taste : — 
 
 " Lie heavy on him earth, for he 
 Laid many a heavy load on thee." 
 
 Canonbury Tower, Islington. 
 
 Canonbury House, the manorial residence, was originally built for a mansion house for 
 the priors of St. Bartholomew. This edifice was of considerable extent, covering nearly the 
 whole site of ground now called Canonbury Place, and having a small park, with garden 
 grounds and domestic oflSces. A large old house, having a tower of brick, about seventeen 
 feet square, and sixty feet high, which, both externally and within doors, retains much of 
 its primitive appearance, together with a considerable part of the wall that encompassed 
 the park and garden-ground, form at this time the most prominent remains of this once 
 splendid dwelling. 
 
 2 N 
 
138 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Stow says, "William Bolton (who was prior of St. Bartholomew) builded anew the 
 manor of Canonbury at Islington, which belonged to the canons of that house." Mr. 
 Lysons thinks it probable that this part of the premises was built by some of the owners of 
 Canonbury, since the Reformation ; but from Bolton's rebus (a bolt in a tun) appearing in 
 several parts of the wall, originally connected with the Old Brick Tower, and which is 
 evidently of the same materials and workmanship, there can be no doubt of its having been 
 erected by him. Part of this wall stiU incloses the ground- attached to the Canonbury 
 Tavern on the East, dividing it from the open fields, and on the north by the side of 
 Hopping Lane. The western wall branched off from the above, somewhat behind the site 
 of Compton Terrace, towards Canonbury Lane. For the erection of the original mansion 
 house we may, without doubt, refer to the date 1352 (1362) inscribed on the building. 
 
 The most considerable part of the old mansion appears to have been much altered by Sir 
 John Spencer, who came to reside here in the year 1 599, previously to which time it was 
 probably rented of him by various individuals. It has been many years divided into several 
 houses, and forms a considerable part of the white-fronted buUdings in Canonbury Place. 
 Two of these houses contain some interesting remains of ancient grandeur. 
 
 Church of St. Mary, Islington. 
 
 This church is situate on the east side of the Upper Street, and nearly in the centre of the 
 village. Though perhaps not formed according to strict architectural rule, it is allowed to be 
 a very light and handsome edifice. It is built with brick, strengthened and adorned with 
 stone groins, cornices, &c., in plain rustic. It contains a nave, chancel, and two aisles, and 
 is adorned at the west end with an elegant spire of Portland stone. The floor is vaulted con- 
 siderably above the level of the church-yard. The west door is ornamented with a portico 
 of a semicircular form, consisting of a dome, supported by four Tuscan columns, to which 
 there is an ascent of five steps, arranged also semicircularly. The two side doors are from a 
 Vetruvian model, and have a very neat appearance. At the east end is a Venetian window, 
 divided into three compartments, by pillars of the Ionic order ; but the intercolumns are filled 
 up with stone, and covered on the inside with the painted decorations of the altai-. The roof is 
 spanned from the walls of the church without the support of pillai'S, and is covered with 
 Westmoreland slates. 
 
 The steeple consists of a tower, rising square to the height of eighty-seven feet, terminated 
 by a cornice supporting four vases at the comers ; upon this is placed an octagonal balus- 
 trade, from within which rises the base of the spire in the same form, supporting eight 
 Corinthian double columns, with their shafts wrought in rustic. Upon these the dome rests, . 
 and from its crown the spire is continued with perforations, and is terminated by a ball and 
 vane. 
 
 The ceiling of the church was originally vaulted, and disposed in parabolical compai-t- 
 ments, having a circle in the centre, and was enriched with mouldings of wreathed flowers, 
 &c., in stucco. The galleries are supported by Tuscan pillars, and are painted on the front 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 139 
 
 in imitation of oak wainscot. They contain between sixty and seventy pews, fralmed of 
 fir, and at the west end is a very handsome and good toned organ, in a mahogany case, 
 placed here in 17*72. It was opened by Dr. Worgan. 
 
 The poM's in the area of the building, which were originally ninety-one in number, toge- 
 ther with the screen which divides the church from the vestibule, are fi-amed of oak wains- 
 cot J and in the christening pew is a neat marble font. The pulpit, reading desk, &c., ai-e 
 of mahogany, and the sounding board is supported by two Corinthian columns. The altar- 
 piece is composed also of the same wood, divided into compartments by pillars and their en- 
 tablature of the Doric order. The Decalogue, &c., is painted in golden letters on a black 
 ground ; and above the pediment, in the place of the window, is a chaste and appropriate 
 painting of the Annunciation, having on each side emblems of the law and the gospel in 
 chiaro-'scuro. These were painted by Mr. Nathaniel Clarkson, a parishioner. The church 
 throughout exhibits an elegant plainness, but the beauty of the interior has been much im- 
 paired by some alterations which were made in 1818, when the biiilding was newly roofed. 
 The ceiling is far inferior, in construction and design, to the one which it was thought 
 necessary to remove, and the filling the lobby with pews, and thereby preventing access to 
 the galleries and the middle of the church irom the side doors, has darkened and encum- 
 bered the entrance, and is attended with some inconvenience to the congregation. 
 
 In the Tower is a good peal of eight bells ; the six which were in the old church being 
 recast in 1774, and two smaller ones added by subscription to complete the octave. The 
 tenor weighs sixteen cwt., and was recast in 1808, in order to improve the tone. 
 
 The Old Queen's Head, Islington. 
 
 The Old Queen's head public house, lately pulled down and rebuilt, is described by an 
 antiquarian, " as one of the most perfect specimens of ancient domestic architecture 
 remaining in the neighbourhood of London, or perhaps in the whole kingdom. It is a 
 strong wood and plaster building, consisting of three lofty stories projecting over each other 
 in front, and forming bay windows, supported by brackets and caryatides of a grotesque 
 form carved in wood. The centre projects several feet beyond the other part of the building, 
 and forms a commodious porch, to which there is a descent of several steps. This is sup- 
 ported in firont by two caryatides of carved oak, crowned with Ionic scrolls, standing one 
 on each side the entrance. The floor of the front parlour is four feet below the surface of 
 the highway, though a tradition prevails that the house originally was entered by an ascent 
 of several steps. This, indeed, is not improbable, when the antiquity of the buUding is 
 considered, and the vast accrunulation of matter upon the road in the course of several 
 centuries : add to this, that the new river, which passes under the highway in front of the 
 house, has, in the foundation of its banks, and the turning an arch over it, occasioned a 
 considerable rise in this place." 
 
140 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 " This ancient fabric, like most of the old buildings in the parish of Islington, has pa- 
 nelled wainscots of oak, and stuccoed ceilings : the latter in the parlour is ornamented with 
 dolphins, cherubs, acorns, &c., suiTounded by a wreathed, border of fruit and foliage. Near 
 the centre of the ceiling is the medallion of a Roman head, crowned with bays ; also a 
 small shield, containing the initials " I. M.,' surrounded by cherubim and glory. The 
 chimney piece is supported by two figures carved in stone, hung with festoons, &c. The 
 stone slab over the fire-place exhibits the storj' of Danae and Actseon, in relief, with muti- 
 lated figures of Venus, Bacchus, and Plenty." ■ « 
 
 Boar's Head, Great Eastcheap. 
 
 On the south side of this street, and near St. Michael's Lane, was the Boar's Head 
 Tavern, celebrated as the place where the inimitable Shakspeare laid some of his best scenes 
 of Henry IV. The original edifice was destroyed in the great fire, but it was rebuilt on the 
 same site,' with a stone sign let into the wall. 
 
 A few yeais ago the tavern was pulled down, and two houses built upon its site, but the 
 original sign stiU exists in the fi:ont of one of the .houses. 
 
 Talbot Inn, Southwark. 
 
 On the east side of the High Street is the Tabard (corrupted to Talbot) inn. In whicli 
 was the residence of the abbots of Hyde, near Winchester, whenever they came to the me- 
 tropolis to attend their duty in parliament. 
 
 This inn was also the place of rendezvous for the pilgrims on their journeys to pay adora- 
 tion to the shrine of St. Thomas-a-Becket, at Canterbury : Chaucer minutely describes their 
 mode of behaviour at the inn, and the circumstances of .their progress. After commencing 
 his prologue with the time of the year and the state of the atmosphere when the ' yong Sunn 
 hath in the Ram his halv6 cours yrunn,' &c., the poet proceeds : 
 
 Befell, that in that season, oh that day, 
 In Southwerk, at the Tabberd as I lay; 
 Ready to wendin on my pilgrimage 
 To Canterbury, with devote corage, 
 At night wer come into that hostery, 
 Wele nine and twenty in a company 
 Of sundrie folk, by aventure yfall 
 In felaship and pilgrimes wer they all; 
 That toward Canterbury wouldin ride. 
 The chambers and stablis werin wide, 
 And well we werin expid at the best, &c. 
 
 He then introduces to view the various personages who composed the cavalcade, viz. the 
 knight, the squire, the squire's yeoman, the prioress, the monk, a friar, a merchant, the clerk 
 
Drassn "by Tbo. H. Slepherd, 
 
 BOAR'S UEJ\D, GREAT KAST CHEAP. 
 
 nii4. 
 
 MTCLENT TABLET, NliAR 1-lOLBOIiS JIRLDGE. 
 
 TJrann "by Itio, H. SJicphei- 
 
 nns. 
 
 TAILBOT IMN 
 
 fc C? Temple cff -flie ISuses linslTDry Sqijarc, LoncbxiJflS]. 
 
LOI^DON' IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 141 
 
 of Oxenford, the serjeaunt-at-law, the frankelan (freeholder), haberdasher, &c., the coke, 
 the shipman, the doctor of phisick, the wife of Bath, the parsonne, the plowman, the millare, 
 the manciple (purveyor- of viands), the reve (bailiflf), the sompnour (apparitor), and the 
 pardoner (seller of pardons) 
 
 The state, aray., and number, and the cause 
 Why that assemblid was thir companie 
 In Southwerke, at this gentil hostelrie ; 
 Thai hight the Tahbarde, faste by the Bell. 
 
 Temple Bar. 
 [See Vignette to Title.] 
 
 Tliis iS' estBemed a very handsome gate, where formerly posts, rails, and a chain only, 
 terminated the city bounds, as also at Holbom, Smithfield, and Whitechapel Bars- After- 
 wards a house of timber M'as erected across the street, with a narrow gateway and southern 
 postern. The fire of Londoii, however, having introduced a system of order and magni- 
 ficence in the public buildings. Temple Bar offered an object for the exercise of Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren's abilities. The- centre is a broad gateway, sufficient for the passing of two 
 carriages ; the sides are furnished with convenient posterns for foot passengers. The whole 
 is constructed of Portland stone, with a rustic basement, surmounted by the Corinthian 
 order. Over the gateway, on the east side, two niches contain the statues of Queen Eliza' 
 beth and James I., with the arms of England over the key-stone. Oh the west side are the 
 statues of Charles I. and Charles II., in Roman habits. They ai-e all the work of 
 Bushneh On the east side was an inscription, now nearly obliterated, to the following 
 purport : 
 
 " Erected in the year 1670, Sir Samuel Starling, Mayor ; continued in the year 1671, 
 Sir Richard Ford, Lord Mayor ; and finished in the year 1672, Sir George Waterman, 
 Lord Mayor. 
 
 This gate, on account of its publicity, was made a place of exposure for the heads of 
 traitor&j who had forfeited' their lives to the laws of their country. It has also long been 
 the place at which the city magistracy receive the royal family, and other distinguished 
 visitors, on solemn occasions : the Lord Mayor, as King's Lieutenant, delivers the sword of 
 state to the sovereign when he enters the city, which his majesty returns. He is then 
 preceded by the magistracy bare-headed, the Lord Mayor, by right of his office, riding on 
 horseback, immediately before the king. Temple Bar, however, has been voted by the eity 
 to be removed, to open a more commodious commimication with the city and liberty of 
 Westminster, at the suggestion, and through the endeavours of William Picket, Esq., 
 Alderman, and Lord Mayor in the year 1 790. Whether this will ever be carried into eifect 
 is doubtful. 
 
 ZO 
 
142 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 St. Thomas's Hospital, Southwark. 
 
 Near the middle of the Borough High Street, on the east side, stands St. Thomas's 
 Hospital, a very handsome stone building, and a noble and extensive charity for the re- 
 ception of the necessitous sick and wounded. 
 
 With respect to the origin of this hospital, it is to be observed that the priory of St. Mary 
 Overies being destroyed by fire in the year 1207, the canons erected an occasional edifice, 
 at a small distance, to answer the same purpose, till their monastery could be rebuilt; which 
 being accomplished, Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, for the greater convenience 
 of air and water, pulled it down in 1215, and removed it to a place where the prior of Ber- 
 mondsey had two years before built an almonry, or almshouse, for the reception of indigent 
 children and necessitous proselytes. The hospital was now dedicated to St. Thomas the 
 Apostle, and endowed with land to the value of ^343 a year : from which time it was held 
 of the Abbot of Bermondsey, until the dissolution of the religious houses, when it fell into 
 the hands of Henry VIII. 
 
 When the corporation of London purchased the manor of Southwark, in 1551, the hos- 
 pital was immediately repaired and enlarged ; and, in the November following, there were 
 received into it 250 sick and helpless objects. The hospital still retained its original name 
 of St. Thomas ; and, in 1552, as hath been already mentioned. King Edward VI. gi-anted a 
 charter, by which the mayor and commonalty of London were incorporated governors of the 
 same. 
 
 Though this hospital escaped the great fire in 1666, yet great part of its possessions were 
 then destroyed ; and two other fires, that afterwards happened in Southwai-k, reduced it to 
 great distress. The building grew old and wanted repairs, and the funds on which it de- 
 pended.for support failed. However, in 1699, the governors opened a subscription for re- 
 building it on a more extensive plan, which was executed at different times, and completed 
 in the year 1742. 
 
 The hospital now consists of three quadrangles, or square courts. In the front, next the 
 street, is a handsome pan- of large iron gates, with a door of tire same work on each side, for 
 the convenience of foot passengers. These are fastened on the sides to stone piers, on each 
 of which is a statue representing one of the patients. These gates open into a very neat 
 square coiurt, encompassed on three sides with a colonnade, surrounded witli benches, next 
 the wall, for the accommodation of people to sit and rest themselves. On the south side, 
 under an empty niche, is the following inscription : 
 
 This building, on the south side of this court, containing three wards, was erected at the 
 charge of Thomas Frederick, of London, Esq., a worthy governor and liberal benefactor 
 to this hospital. Anno 1708. 
 
 On the opposite side, under the same kind of niche, is this inscription : 
 
 This building, on the north side of this coiurt, containing three wards, was erected at the 
 
riawu Tjy Tho. H. Sierpherd, 
 PL16B 
 
 ST. TIH1®MAS° MOSFITAIL, AM® STATUK OIF. MEW© EBWAffiffi) Yl. 
 
 
 Drfovn by 1 h 11 k-chL-l 
 
 nieg 
 
 >jra»3T3lJ: 
 
 (BtDHf'S lEOSFHTAIL, J^B SirATtDriE ©IF irm®MAS ©TDTY. THE jf ®Um©IB]E . 
 
 _5Tiiple of iJie Muses, FmsTnuiy Sqriare. Lcmdnu. 
 
150 ' LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Tournaments were also held here, and on St. George's day 1395, there was a grand joust, 
 at which Lord Wells undertook to maintain the renown of England against all comers. 
 
 There were originally three openings on each side of the street, whence a view might be 
 had of the shipping. In one of these a drawbridge was contrived, useful either for purposes 
 of defence, or for the admission of vessels to the upper part of the river. This was pro- 
 tected by a strong tower, which, being well manned and armed, occasioned the defeat of 
 Falconbridge, with his Kentish mariners, in 14Y1, in his attempt to seize the city. 
 
 The New Bridge. 
 
 The first pile of this New Bridge, was driven on the west side of the Old Bridge, 
 March, 1824. 
 
 On the fifteenth of June, 1825, the stone was laid by the Lord Mayor of London (Mr. 
 Alderman Garratt), in the presence of the late Duke of York. The ceremony was marked 
 by great pomp and circumstance. The civic authorities, accompanied by his royal 
 highness, having proceeded in procession to the principal coffer-dam of the bridge, Mr. 
 Jones, sub-chairman of the committee, presented a silver trowel to the Lord Mayor, who 
 then addressed the Duke of York and the company in a very appropriate speech. This 
 was succeeded by the masonic ceremonies. A portion of fine mortar being placed aroimd 
 the cavity of the stone, by several of the assistants, and spread by the Lord Mayor with his 
 splendid trowel, precisely at five o'clock the first stone was gradually lowered into its bed 
 by a brazen block of four sheaves, and the power of a machine called a crab. When it was 
 settled, it was secured by several masons, who cut four sockets close to it on the stone 
 beneath, into which were fitted strong iron clamps, secured with plaster of Paris. The 
 Lord Mayor then struck it with a mallet, and ascertained its accuracy by applying the level 
 to its east, north, west, and south, surfaces. The work being thus perfected, the citv 
 sword and mace were disposed in saltire upon the stone ; successive shouts burst fi-om the 
 numerous spectators ; the bands played the national anthem of England ; and, a flag being 
 lowered as a signal, on the top of the dam, the guns of the Artillery Company, and the 
 carronades on Calvert's brewery wharf fired a salute. 
 
 When the procession had left the dam, amidst the acclamations of the spectators and 
 populace, many of the visitors went down to the floor to view the stone more closely, and 
 to boast to posterity that they had stood upon it or walked over it. 
 
 The dimensions of the New Bridge are as follows : — Centre arch, span, 150 feet, rise, 
 32 feet, piers, 24 feet; arches next the centre, span, 140 feet, rise, 30 feet, piers, 22 feet, 
 abutment arches, span, 130 feet, rise, 25 feet, abutment 74 feet. The full width, fi:om bank 
 to bank, 690 feet ; length of bridge, including abutments, 950 feet ; ditto, without abutments, 
 782 feet ; width of the bridge, from outside to outside of the parapets, 55 feet ; carriage 
 way, 33 feet 4 inches. 
 
 The arches are constructed solely of granite, of the finest description and workmanship, 
 from the quarries of Devonshire, Aberdeen, and Cornwall. The piers and abutments are 
 
in.291. 
 
 y ■ . p pg-.tvi "ciY B (icon 
 
 STffiW S.OKS)®!? 3BmHin)©E. 
 
 Diown Ig- Hid iCShephiHcfl. 
 
 EiiA;a:'iei'by" "B- fti-r-rn 
 
 fc C? Temple; of ■Q'le "WEoaes, Ei-nsTjmy Square. laDfloa. 
 
LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 151 
 
 also constructed externally of the same material ; but are filled inside with the hardest 
 Yorkshire and Derbyshire stone. The cornices and parapets are wholly of granite. 
 
 The ' stairs and the accompanying pedestals are also constructed of granite. We believe 
 there are 77 steps, of which 30 are covered at high water. There are two landings, to 
 break the abruptness of the ascent. The width of the stairs is proportioned to the bridge ; 
 while the beautiful pedestals of the summit, composed of granite blocks, weighing 25 tons, 
 challenge the admiration of the spectators. 
 
 On the City side, the road-way, which extends to a fine open area, created by the demo- 
 lition of the houses in front of the Moniunent, back to Crooked Lane, and thence to East- 
 cheap, is supported by eleven brick arches, with the exception of the elliptical arch over 
 Thames Street. This latter arch is faced with granite, and" the interior is constructed of 
 Yorkshire stone. On each side of this arch are rustic gateways, leading to a succession 
 of steps, which enable the passengers from Thames Street to reach the bridge without 
 taking a circuitous route. At the Southwark side of the bridge the roadways are sup- 
 ported by twenty-two brick arches of a similar character to the City side, with the ex- 
 ception of a beautiful arch communicating with Tooley Street, This is faced with granite, 
 but the interior is of brick, completed in the most masterly style of workmanship. The 
 line of road on this side, for the present, terminates at the entrance to St. Thomas's 
 Street ; but it is intended ultimately that it should be carried forward to the wide 
 opening in fi:ont of the Town Hall — a most desirable improvement. The side commu- 
 nicating with Tooley Street will, in like manner, open itself at the -wide part near the 
 entrance to Bridge Yard. 
 
 Opening of the New Bridge. 
 
 The bridge being so far completed as to admit of its being opened, the 1st of August 
 1831, the anniversary of the accession of the House of Hanover to the throne of these 
 realms, was appointed for the ceremony ; and his Majesty, William IV., was graciously 
 pleased to accept the invitation of the corporation of London to be present on the occasion, 
 accompanied by his illustrious consort. His Majesty was pleased to command that the 
 procession should be by watei;, with the double view of benefitting the men employed on the 
 river, and of enabling the greatest possible number of his loyal subjects to witness the 
 spectacle. As soon as his Majesty's intentions were known, preparations on the most ex- 
 tensive and magnificent scale were made; the arrangements on the river being entrusted to 
 Sir Byam Martin, and the bridge and its approaches to the Bridge Committee. Vast 
 numbers of Workmen were immediately employed in erecting an extensive triple awning 
 along the London end of the bridge, which terminated in a magnificent pavilion for the 
 reception of His Majesty, and various apartments for the use of the Queen and her 
 attendants. The pavilion and awning were lined throughout with the colours of all 
 nations, and upwards of 150 flags and banners floated firom the top of the bridge. In 
 the royal tent a table was laid for their Majesties, and the members of the Royal Fainily ; 
 and under the canopy two long tables were laid, capable of accommodating 1500 persons, for 
 
152 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 the use of the alderman and officers of the corporation, the common councilmen, and their 
 ladies, &c. 
 
 To facilitate their Majesties' passage down the river, and to prevent confusion and in- 
 convenience, two parallel lines of vessels were formed into a passage of about 160 feet wide, 
 consisting of a double, and in many cases, a triple line of barges, steamers, yachts, and 
 craft of every description, which extended from the upper water-gate of Somerset House 
 next Waterloo Bridge, about halfway between Southwark Bridge and the new bridge, when 
 the line became more open, and gradually spread to the stairs of the new bridge on each 
 side, so as to afford ample space for the boats in the procession to land their inmates and 
 retire. The termination of the lines at these points was formed by the eight city barges, 
 with the navigation barge ancT shallops. These were new gilt and decorated with the 
 gayest flags, and filled with gay company. Each barge had its appointed station ; those 
 of the Lord Mayor and Stationers' Company were rather in advance of the bridge ; and all 
 were provided with bands of music. 
 
 Several gun-brigs were brought up the river, from which and from the wharfs adjacent, 
 salutes were fired throughout the day ; flags and colours of all descriptions were brought 
 into requisition ; and even the vessels below bridge all appeared in their holiday deco- 
 rations. 
 
 Until one o'clock in the day spaces were left in the line, midway between each of the 
 bridges for the occasional passing of wherries, &c. 
 
 Boats were stationed at intervals within the line, in order to be ready to give assistance, in 
 case of accidents ; and officers belonging to the Thames police, with other authorized 
 persons were placed in various situations to preserve the lines until their Majesties' return. 
 
 The appearance of the bridges contributed greatly to heighten the interest of the scene. 
 The balustrades of Waterloo were crowded at an early hour, many persons having taken 
 up their, stations there as early as between five and six o'clock in the morning. On the 
 whole length of the terrace of Somerset House, several tiers of seats were erected, which 
 were occupied even at an early hour with a most respectable company, chiefly ladies. The 
 windows behind, and the tops of the building in every place which could command a view, 
 were also thronged with spectators. The balustrade^ of Blackfriars Bridge were also 
 crowded with well dressed company. 
 
 Merchant Taylor's School, Suffolk Lane. 
 
 This School was founded in 1661. The whole edifice was consumed by the great fire: 
 the present spacious fabric is supported on the east side by stone pillars, forming a hand- 
 some cloister, containing apartments for the. ushers. Adjoining is the chapel, and the 
 library well furnished. Three hundred boys receive a classical education, one third of them 
 gratis, and the rest for a very small stipend. It is esteemed an excellent seminary, and 
 sends several scholars annually to St. John's, Oxford, in which there are forty-six fellow- 
 ships belonging to it. 
 
Drami Tro Tlio. H. Sliepherd . 
 
 PI 164 
 
 MERCHANT TAILORS' SCHOOL. 
 
 ST MARY AT HILL. 
 
 iawn ly XhaH. Shepherd, 
 ft 7^^. . 
 
 ST MICHAEL, CHOOKKD LAN.E. 
 
 pi 1 ^7 Fugraved- by J E Roberts 
 
 ST MAEY SOMERSET, UPPER THAMES STREET, 
 
lonoon in the nineteenth century. 153 
 
 Church op St. Mary at Hill, Lower Thames Street. 
 
 Opposite to Billingsgate is the street called St. Mary's Hill, on the west side of which is 
 the parish church of St. Mary, called, from its situation, St. Maiy at Hill, or on the Hill. 
 The date of the foundation of this church is equally uncertain with that of most of the 
 churches in this city. The first circumstances met with concerning it, are that Rose de 
 Wrytel founded a chantry in the church of St. Mary at Hill, in the year 1330, and that 
 Richard de Hackney presented Nigellus Dalleye to this living in the year 1337. Stow, on 
 the authority of Fabian, who was living at the time, relates a singular occurrence at the re- 
 building of this church in 1497. He says, " In the year 1497, in the moneth of Aprill, as 
 labourers digged for the foundation of a wall, within the church of St. Marie-hill, neare 
 unto Belingsgate, they found a coffin of rotten timber, and therein the corps of a woman, 
 whole of skinne, and of bones, undisevered, and the joynts of her arms plyable, without 
 breaking the skynne, upon whose sepulchre this was engraven : ' Here lieth the bodies of 
 Richard Hackney, Fishmonger, and Alice his wife ; the which Richard was sheriffe in the 
 fifteenth of Edward n. (1323). Her bodie was kept afcove grounde three or four dayes 
 without uoysance, but then it waxed unsavorie, and so was againe buried.' " 
 
 Though this church was considerably injured by the fire in 1666, it did not require re- 
 building, and was therefore repaired, after which the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard, the 
 church of which was totally burnt, was united to it. It is a well-proportioned Gothic 
 structure of stone, consisting of a plain body enlightened by large windows, with a cupola 
 in the middle, and a square tower, crowned with a handsome turret, at the end. The dir 
 mensions are, length ninety-six feet, breadth sixty-feet, altitude, to the ceiling, twenty-six 
 feet, to the centre of the cupola, thirty-eight feet, to the top of the turret, ninety-six feet. 
 
 It is a rectory, the advowson of which appears to have been always in lay hands ; and, 
 in 1638, was purchased by the parishioners, in whom it has ever since remained ; but since 
 the parish of St. Andrew Hubbard has been imited to it, the Duke of Northumberland, who 
 ' is patron of that parish, presents in turn. 
 
 Annually, on the Sunday after Midsummer-day, according to ancient custom, the fraterT 
 nity of Fellowship -porters, of the city of London, repair to this church in the morning, 
 where, during the reading of the Psalms, they reverently approach the altar, two and two, 
 on the rails of which are placed two basons, and into these they put their respective offerings. 
 They are generally followed by the congregation, and thfe money offered is distributed 
 among the aged, poor, and infirm members of that fraternity. 
 
 The parish of St. Andrew Hubbard was a rectory, formerly called St. Andrew, Juxta 
 Eastcheap, and was founded before 1389 ; in which year the Earl of Pembroke presented 
 Robert Clayton to the rectory, in the room of Walter Palmer, deceased. On the death of 
 the Earl of Pembroke, without issue, the patronage devolved to the Earls of Shrewsbury, in 
 whose family it continued till 1460, when John, Earl of Shrewsbury, was killed, at the 
 battle of Northampton, when it came to Edward IV. After this, it had divers patrons, till 
 Algernon, Earl of Northumberland, presented Thomas Parker, who was burnt out in 1666, 
 
154 LONDON IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 
 
 Church of St. Michael, Ckooked Lane. 
 
 Miles's, or rather St. Michael's Lane, was long distinguished by a Dissenting Meeting 
 House. Crooked Lane runs from Miles's Lane to Fish Street Hill, and was remarkable for 
 the manufacture of fishing-tackle, bird-cages, hand-mills, &c. At the south side of this 
 avenue stood the parish church of St. Michael's, Crooked Lane, built by Sir Christopher 
 Wren ; but recently taken down in forming the approaches to the New London Bridge. 
 Indeed, the whole of this neighbourhood is undergoing a total change for the above object, 
 and will shortly retain little or no vestige of its former state. In this church William Wal- 
 worth, who killed Wat Tyler, was buried, whose epitaph, in uncouth rhyme, is recorded by 
 Weevet, in his Funeral Monuments. 
 
 Church of Allhallows the Great, Upper Thames Street. 
 
 * 
 
 This Church, which is dedicated to All Saints, was originally called AUhallows ad 
 Fcenum, in the Ropery, from its vicinity to a hay-wharf, and its situation among rope- 
 makers ; and AUhallows the More, to distinguish it from another church, which stood a 
 little to the east of it, and was called AUhallows the Less ; but being both destioyed by the 
 fire in 1666, the latter was not rebuilt, and the two parishes were united. 
 
 The church of AUhallows the Great was founded by the noble family of the Despencers 
 who presented to it in the year 1361 ; firom whom it passed to the Earl of Warwick and 
 Salisbury, and at last to the crown. In 1546, Henry VIII. gave this church to Thomas 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, in whose successors it has continued to the present time. It is 
 a rectoiy, and one of the thirteen peculiars, in London, belonging to the see of Canterbury. 
 The present edifice was finished in 1683. It was planned by Sir Christopher Wren but 
 not executed with the same accuracy that was designed. It is eighty-seven feet long 
 sixty feet broad, and thirty-three feet high, to the roof, built of stone, strong and solid. The 
 walls ai-e plain and massy, the ornaments few and simple, and the windows very large. 
 The tower is plain, square, and divided into five stages, terminating square and plain 
 without spire, turret, or pinnacle. The cornice is supported by scrolls, and over these 
 rises a balustrade of solid construction, suitable to the rest of the building. 
 
 AUhallows the Less, which was also called AUhallows on the CeUars, or Super CeUa- 
 riuin, because it stood above vaults let out for ceUars, was also a rectory, the advowson of 
 which was in the Bishop of Winchester, untU the coUege of St. Lawrence Pounteney was 
 founded, when Sir John Pounteney purchased it, and rebmlt the church, which he appro- 
 priated to his college; by which means it became a donative, or curacy. 
 
 Church op St. Botolph, Bishopsgate. 
 
 On the west side of Bishopsgate Street, just without the wall, and opposite to the north 
 end of Houndsditch, stands the parish church of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, which appears to 
 
Ilcaini"try Tho.H. Shepherd. 
 F1179 
 
 En.fea.Tca. ~bj J. Hin phliffp 
 
 A3L,JLfflIAXi]L,©WS EmTUMCH, HTPFJEm TMAMES STMEIET. 
 
 Driwm Tjy ThalL Shepherd, 
 PL 180 
 
 Ergravci ■fey J. HiachBfie. 
 
 ST. BOTOICIPM, B It §mi®]P S G ATI 
 
Drawn TjyTho HSbepter^ 
 PUOl. 
 
 FAMTMEOIT, ©XFOIK.]© ST. 
 
 Zi^rwroi by J.B&iehliff. ' 
 
 '■k Up. '" 
 
 DnramliyTho.H Shcplierd. 
 
 ITMrFircS l^'MEAI'mS. WTSM ST. 
 
 ..u-iple of the liiises, FinslDurj Square; London, Feb? 1831.