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 a L. A. WALKER. Manager. 
 
 a 
 
THE 
 
 RAND-McNALLY GUIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Great Northwest 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 INFORMATION REGARDING THE STATES OF MONTANA, IDAHO, WASHING TON , 
 
 OREGON, MINNESOTA, NORTH DAKOTA, ALASKA, ALSO WESTERN CANADA AND 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE ALONG 
 
 THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY. GIVES THE EARLY 
 
 ^^^ISTORY, TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, RESOURCES, 
 
 AND VALUABLE STATISTICS ON THE 
 
 STATES COMPRISING THE 
 
 GREAT NORTHWEST. 
 
 By S. H. SOULE 
 
 With Maps and Illustrations 
 
 Chicago and New York : 
 
 RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, 
 
 Publishers 
 
HOOD RIVER, ORE. 
 
 Cloud Cap Inn 
 
 This famous 
 hostelry is 
 situated on 
 the north 
 slope of 
 Mt. Hood 
 within a few 
 minutes' 
 walk of its 
 living 
 glaciers. 
 Elevation 
 6,500 feet 
 with 
 
 unequalled 
 scenery and 
 " ozone 
 to burn." 
 Daily Stages 
 from 
 Hood River. 
 
 For Terms address MRS. S. LANGILLE, Hood River, Ore. 
 
 BOISE, IDAHO. 
 
 THE IDAN=HA 
 
 Leading Hotel of the Northwest. 
 
 "BOISE, IDAHO 
 
 200 Guest Rooms, 
 
 Single and En Suite 
 
 75 tilitfj Bath 
 
 Opened January, 
 
 1901 
 
 Enlarged January, 
 
 1903 
 Modern and Up to 
 
 "Date 
 
 12 Sample Rooms 
 
 for the accom" 
 
 modation of 
 
 Commercial 
 
 Travelers 
 
 Headduarters for 
 
 Mining Men 
 
 jimerican "Plan 
 
 Exclusively, 
 
 J3 
 
 Rates: 
 
 $3.00 to $5.00 
 
 Per Day 
 
 IDAN=HA HOTE-L COMPANY, LTD., Proprietors 
 
 E. W. SCHUBERT, Manager 
 
 Copyright, 1903, by Rand, McNally & Co., Chicago. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 It is the purpose of this Guide to make that extensive terri- 
 tory, termed " The Great Northwest," familiar to tliose who 
 as yet have but a vague idea of its vastness, its attractions, 
 and it resources, and to give the homcseeker and the investor 
 rehable information, obtained after a thorough investigation 
 of every part of this great country. 
 
 President Jefferson builded better than he knew when, in 
 1803, he inaugurated the Lewis and Clark Expedition — an 
 enterprise that has resulted in immense benefits to the nation, 
 commercially and socially, creating new spheres for the in- 
 vestor and congenial surroundings for the homeseeker. The 
 only wonder is that greater numbers of those who are to-day 
 eking out a bare existence in cities, where the human con- 
 gestion is a menace to health and a bar to wealth, do not 
 realize the existing conditions — that in the Great W^est life 
 may be made worth the living, a competency may be earned in 
 a few years, and, independent, breathing the pure air of 
 heaven, surrounded by Nature's marvels, happiness and com- 
 fort may be enjoyed to the fullest extent. 
 
 It is only within a very few years that people of the eastern 
 states have realized what a wealth of scenery, or great nat- 
 ural resources, of hidden treasures, is contained in that sec- 
 tion of the country, and what rich returns for industry, energy 
 and brains are revealed in the magnificent progress of the 
 states of Montana, Idaho, Oregon and Washington. 
 
 The great iron highways spanning the continent have made 
 possible, as nothing else could, a close connection between the 
 Atlantic and the Pacific coasts, and what has hitherto been 
 regarded as a far away and unknown land is now within 
 easy reach. When one has journeyed across the Rocky Moun- 
 
8 PREFACE 
 
 tains, with their awe-inspiring gorges, their marvelous rock 
 formations, and their rich colorings ; when he has seen the 
 mighty Columbia River with its long stretches of i^iacid wa- 
 ters suddenly leaping into foaming cascades and swift tor- 
 rents, its fleets of fishing boats and its great salmon canneries ; 
 when the blue depths of Puget Sound, that immense sea 1,200 
 miles long, with its countless harbors and bays, dawns upon 
 the vision; and when the splendid cities of Portland, Tacoma, 
 Seattle and Spokane meet his astonished gaze, the traveler 
 realizes for 'the first time that the younger states of the Union 
 are rapidly gaining for themselves a position in the commer- 
 cial world which those of older growth have hitherto held 
 unchallenged. 
 
 A great factor in the development of these Western states 
 is the industry and progressiveness with which the people are 
 imbued, and the fact that they have appreciated the wonderful 
 opportunities presented for financial gain as well as the great 
 advantages of climate and, consequently, physical benefits. 
 There is no premium ofifered for indolence, but steady appli- 
 cation and perseverence will bring the reward sought for, and 
 success will crown the efforts of all who determine to secure it. 
 
 The Publisher.s. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PART I. 
 
 Page 
 
 Minnesota, . . . . . ii 
 
 DULUTH TO BrAINERD, . 12 
 
 Minnesota, . 15 
 
 North Dakota, . 19 
 
 Montana, 25 
 
 Yellowstone National Park, 32 
 
 Idaho, . 54 
 
 Washington, 55 
 
 Oregon, . 79 
 
 PART II. 
 
 Introduction, . . i 
 
 Early History, 2 
 
 Lewis and Clark Expedition, 6 
 
 ToroGRAPHY and Climate, 20 
 
 Timber, . 34 
 
 Agricultural Products, 36 
 
 Mines, 36 
 
 Fisheries, 38 
 
 Lands, 38 
 
 Emigration, 39 
 
 Commerce, 42 
 
 Minnesota, 46 
 
 North Dakota, 50 
 
 Montana, 56 
 
 Idaho, . 128 
 
 Washington, i6o 
 
 Oregon, . 247 
 
En Route to the Pacific Nortliwest 
 
 ST. PAUL TO DULUTH. 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 White Bear. — A typical Minnesota lake, St. Paul's sum- 
 mer resort, situated about twelve miles from that city. 
 White Bear is reached by frequent trains from St. Paul. 
 
 Stillwater. — Population, 12,500. About the year 1843, 
 while JMinnesota was still a portion of the territory of Wis- 
 consin, Stillwater became a thriving villlage. It was incor- 
 porated in 1854, and has steadily progressed in commercial 
 importance until it now ranks as the fifth city of the state. 
 The lumbering interests predominate, but other industries 
 have also assumed large proportions and have become im- 
 portant factors in the commercial life of the city. There 
 are large lumber and flour mills, feed mills, an agricultural 
 implement factory, large grain elevators, carriage and 
 wagon factories, foundries and machine shops, two boat 
 builders, and many other industries. 
 
 Wyoming. — Twenty-nine miles from St. Paul. From 
 here a branch line diverges. Midway between W^yoming 
 and Taylors Falls lie the gems of lakes in this immediate 
 region. There are five of them, known collectively as the 
 Chisago lakes, individually as Green, Big, Lindstrom, Chisago, 
 and Sunrise. 
 
 Taylors Falls. — Population, 500. The Interstate Park 
 and the Dalles of the ,St. Croix, reached only by the North- 
 ern Pacific Railway (Duluth Short Line), are situated at 
 Taylors Falls. The St. Croix Falls, Wis., are on the oppo- 
 site side of the St. Croix River. The states of Minnesota 
 and Wisconsin have set aside the land on both sides of the 
 St. Croix River — the boundary between the states — as an 
 interstate park. Within this area of about 400 acres are the 
 Dalles of the St. Croix, and the richly carved and eroded 
 
 11 
 
12 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 bluffs bordering them. The Devil's Chair is one of the most 
 imposing columns of rock to be found, and near it is Pulpit 
 Rock, serving somewhat to mitigate the evil atmosphere of 
 the Devil's presence. The Old Man of the Dalles is a 
 remarkable profile, strongly resembling the profile of Wash- 
 ington. Two trains leave St. Paul and Minneapolis every 
 clay for Taylors Falls during the season. 
 
 Rush City. — Population, i,ooo. Has a brick factory, sash 
 and door factory, wagon factory, 200-barrel roller flour mill, 
 and warehouses. 
 
 Pine City. — Population, 1,000. Is the county seat of Pine 
 County. Has bottling works, brewery, and creamery. A 
 fine farming country is tributary and it is a first-class potato, 
 corn and stock market. 
 
 Throughout this region, between Forest Lake and Pine 
 City, and even beyond, those whose lungs need the tonic 
 properties found among pine forests, and those suffering 
 from hay fever, may come, certain that nature will afford 
 relief and build them up. 
 
 Hinckley. — Situated on Grindstone River, and has a popu- 
 lation of 400. The state has erected a fine monument to the 
 memory of those who lost their lives in the great fire of 
 1894. 
 
 Cloquet. — Population, 4,000. Has planing mills, paper 
 mill, pulp mill, and a national bank. Ships lumber and 
 paper. 
 
 DULUTH TO BRAINERD. 
 
 Duluth. — Population, 70,000. Named for Du Luth, an" 
 early explorer. Is situated at the head of Lake Superior, 
 and is the county seat of St. Louis County. Eight railroad 
 lines run into Duluth, making it an important railroad cen- 
 ter. It has a government land office, a board of trade, 
 chamber of commerce and produce exchange, banks (with 
 a combined capital of over $3,000,000), grain elevators, a 
 blast furnace, car works, iron and steel plant, large foun- 
 dries and machine shops, flouring mills, saw mills, blast 
 furnaces, a complete system of water and gas mains, and 
 electric street railways. Every branch of commercial indus- 
 try is represented here. The docks of the Northern Pacific 
 Railway, as well as those built by other companies and indi- 
 viduals, afford ample facilities for the unloading and ware- 
 
MINNESOTA 
 
 13 
 
 COURT HOUSE, MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 
 
14 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 housing of the cargoes from the largest lake vessels. Re- 
 ceipts and shipments of grain, coal, oil, lumber, salt, ores 
 and fish are the leading items, but nearly every marketable 
 commodity is received and handled at this point in great 
 quantities. There is an inexhaustible supply of iron ore 
 near the city. Large shipyards are located here, and several 
 steel vessels have already been built. 
 
 Carlton. — Population, 700. ' The county seat of Carlton 
 County, situated at the head of the Dalles, on the St. Louis 
 River. Has valuable water power, and a slate brick manu- 
 factory. The shipments consist of lumber, in the rough and 
 
 ON ONE OF MINNESOTA S LAKES. 
 
 manufactured. This is the junction point with the Eastern 
 Minnesota Railroad. 
 
 Aitkin. — Population, 2,000. This is the county seat of 
 Aitkin County, situated on the Mississippi River. Supports 
 saw mills, stave, heading and hoop factories, and wagon and 
 sleigh factories. The county is fast becoming settled for 
 agricultural purposes. 
 
 A few miles north of Aitkin the Mississippi River has its 
 source in Itaska Lake, in the vicinity of which an immense 
 lumber trade is carried on. Pine trees are cut into logs and 
 floated down the Mississippi to the Minneapolis mills, the 
 yearly cut being nearly 200,000,000 feet. In the vicinity of 
 Aitkin an unlimited supply of hardwood offers great induce- 
 ments to the manufacturer. Two steamers run between 
 Aitkin and Grand Rapids, sixty-five miles north. 
 
MINNESOTA 
 
 15 
 
 ST. PAUL TO PORTLAND. 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 Anoka. — Population, 5,000. The county seat of Anoka 
 County, situated on both banks of the Rum River, extending 
 south to the northern bank of the Mississippi River. It has 
 saw mills, sash and door factory, planing mill, broom fac- 
 tory, barrel factory, flour mills, feed mills, starch factories, 
 creamery, and a boot and shoe factory. Potatoes, wheat, 
 corn and oats are the principal products. The shipments 
 are potatoes, grain, flour and lumber. 
 
 Elk River. — Population, 1,500. Is the county seat of Sher- 
 burne County, located on the Mississippi and Elk rivers. 
 
 DULUTII, MINN. 
 
 with good water power. It has a saw mill, flour mill, starch 
 factory, and creamery. This is a good farming country. 
 
 St. Cloud. — Population, 10,000. The county seat of 
 Stearns County, and is situated on both sides of the Mis- 
 sissippi River. It has saw mills, flouring mills, foundries, 
 machine shops, wook-working shops, elevators, a United 
 States land office, state reformatory, wholesale grocery 
 house, and harrow factory. Near by are extensive granite 
 quarries. A dam and canal control the water power of the 
 Mississippi River at this point. This is the center of a fine 
 agricultural district, and is one of the most progressive of 
 Minnesota's cities. 
 
 Sauk Rapids. — Population, 2,000. The county seat of 
 Benton County, situated on the east bank of the Mississippi 
 River. Has co-operative creamery, saw mill, flour mill and 
 some fine quarries of red granite. An excellent water 
 
16 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 power, only partially utilized, renders this a good point for 
 manufactories. 
 
 Royalton. — Population, 900. Is on the Platte River, and 
 has flour, feed, saw and planing mills, and grain elevators. 
 Water power privileges suitable for all kinds of manufac- 
 turing can be had at this point. 
 
 Little Falls. — Population, 7,000. Is the county seat of 
 Morrison County, located on the Mississippi River. Plas 
 water power, flour, pulp and paper mills, sash and door fac- 
 tories, iron works, wagon ai»d agricultural implement fac- 
 tories, water works, electric light and gas plants, steam 
 laundry, brewer}^, pop factory, grain elevators, steam dry 
 kiln, saw mills, etc. Little Falls is the junction of the 
 branch line running to Morris, and for the "cut-off" to Sta- 
 ples. The line to Staples passes through a finely timbered 
 and agricultural country, which is being rapidly developed. 
 A very superior quality of white, hard brick is also manu- 
 factured here. 
 
 Brainerd. — Population, 10,000. The county seat of Crow 
 Wing County, beautifully located on the east bank of the 
 Mississippi River at the junction of the line from Duluth. 
 Crow Wing County has saw mills and numerous mercantile 
 houses. A dam has been erected across the Mississippi 
 River, developing power equaling 18,000 horse power, and 
 providing enormous storage capacity for logs above, also 
 furnishing power for an electric light plant. 
 
 The Leech Lake Country. — Northward from Brainerd the 
 Minnesota & International Railway extends through a won- 
 derful lake and pine region, well up toward the Canadian 
 boundary. Here the Ojibway Indian lives, as he has for 
 some centuries, more or less, primitively, picturesquely. 
 
 Among the points where good accommodations are to be 
 had are Pine River, Walker, Bemidji and Black Duck. 
 From Pine River Woman Lake and a large collection of 
 neighboring lakes are reached. On A¥oman Lake Kabe- 
 kona Camp is located. At Walker Leech Lake itself is 
 reached. Walker is a good sized town and the central point 
 of the Leech Lake country. 
 
 Bemidji is in the very heart of the lake country. Hun- 
 dreds of lakes lie scattered on all sides. At Black Duck one 
 is in a region just opening to civilization. Among the 
 important bodies of water in this region north of Leech 
 Lake are Cass and Winnibigoshish lakes, both very large. 
 
MINNESOTA 
 
 17 
 
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 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Staples.— Population, i,6oo. Brick is manufactured ex- 
 tensively. The surrounding country consists of good farm- 
 ing and timbered lands. 
 
 Verndale.— Population, 800. Near Wing River, which 
 furnishes good water power. Has elevators, flour mill, and 
 planing mill. 
 
 Wadena.— Population, 2,000. The county seat of Wadena 
 County. Has a brewery, flour mill, wood manufacturing 
 plant, and machine shop. This is the junction point of the 
 main line with the Fergus Falls branch running to Milnor. 
 
 Perham. — Population, 1,500. Named after the first presi- 
 
 fAIRIIAVEN BEACH, LAKE SALLY. 
 
 dent of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Is situated near Pine 
 Lake. Has steam brewery, wagon factory, planing and 
 flour mills, and a grain elevator. 
 
 Frazee. — Population, 1,000. Has saw, planing and flour 
 mills, heading factory, and elevator. Large shipments of 
 wood and lumber are made from here. 
 
 Detroit. — Population, 1,800. The county seat of Becker 
 County, located on Detroit Lake and the western edge of 
 the "Lake Park Region." Mineral springs, containing 
 health-restoring properties, are an attraction. Has eleva- 
 tors and flour mills. Detroit Lake, surrounded by rugged 
 hills or low, wooded shores, is but one of a chain of lakes 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 19 
 
 tlvat stretches southward. Here are Muskrat, Melissa, Sal- 
 lie, Buck, Little Pelican, Pelican, Fish, Lizzie, Crystal and 
 Lida lakes. The Pelican River is a bond of union down to 
 and including Lake Lizzie. 
 
 Winnipeg Junction. — Is situated on the Bulifalo River, 
 near Silver Lake, and is the junction point of the main line 
 and the Red River Branch, which runs to Crookston, Red Lake 
 Falls, Grand Forks, and Winnipeg through a rich farming 
 country. 
 
 Glyndon. — Population, 450. The town is located ten 
 miles east of Fargo and is the junction point with the Great 
 Xorthern Railway. It is an important grain shipping place, 
 
 DUCK SHOOTING ON DETROIT L.\KES. 
 
 being situated in the Red River Valley, the great grain pro- 
 ducing region. 
 
 Moorhead. — Population, 5,000. This city is pleasantly sit- 
 uated on the Red River of the North, which separates Min- 
 nesota from North Dakota, and is the county seat of Clay 
 County. It has flouring mills, ele^'ators, brick yards and 
 stock yards. Moorhead is well supplied with small manu- 
 facturing establishments and is an important shipping point 
 for farm products. 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 Fargo. — Population, 12,000. Is the county seat of Cass 
 County, and affords a United States land office, elevators, 
 flour mills, wholesale grocery and fruit houses, one of the 
 largest linseed oil mills in the United States, saddlery job- 
 bing houses, stores and manufactories, and all the various 
 
20 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 branches of trade which go to make a thrifty and prosperous 
 city. Fargo is the third largest farm machinery distributing 
 point in the United States. Brick is manufactured exten- 
 sively. Since the great fire of June 7, 1893, the entire city 
 has been rebuilt and is now the finest appearing city in the 
 state. A large flax fiber mill takes care of all the straw 
 grown by the farmers in the vicinity. The product is 
 pressed into bales and shipped east. Fargo is favorably 
 situated on the Red River, in the center of the rich agricul- 
 tural belt of the renowned Red River Valley. Fargo is the 
 junction of the Dakota and Minnesota divisions, and of the 
 Fargo & Southwestern branch. 
 
 Casselton. — Population, 1,200. Wheat, barlc)-, flax and 
 
 STRE2T SCENE, F.ARGO 
 
 pork are the principal products. This is the junction of the 
 main line and the Casselton branch. 
 
 The Red Ri\er \',\llev. — West of Fargo, passing through 
 Mapleton, Dalrymple, Casselton, Wheatland, Buffalo. Tower 
 City, etc., the traveler is traversing the famous Red River 
 Valley, the most noted hard wheat region of the world. 
 It is level as a floor, the soil is as black as coal, and 
 it produces wheat and flax, especially, of an unequalled 
 quality and in enormous quantities. Corn is also being 
 raised to a considerable extent. As there are almost no 
 fences to be seen, the whole valley appears as one vast 
 wheat field as far as the eye can range. The valley is about 
 half and half in Minnesota and North Dakota, the Red River 
 being the dividing line between the states. There are here 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 
 
 21 
 
 raised, on an average, from 40,000,000 to 60,000,000 bushels 
 of wheat yearly. 
 
 Valley City. — Population, 2,500. This is the county seat 
 of Barnes County and is located on the Cheyenne River. It 
 supports a steam flouring mill, elevators, electric light, 
 water works and telephone systems, and the State Normal 
 School. It is a fine grazing and grain growing section, and 
 wheat, flour and small grains are the principal shipments. 
 
 Jamestown. — Population, 2,297. This is the county seat 
 of Stutsman County and is situated in the beautiful valley of 
 
 THRESHING WHEAT IN NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 the James River, which furnishes good water power. The 
 city has elevators, the North Dakota Presbyterian College, 
 a flouring mill, a creamery, brick and stone kilns, etc. The 
 Devil's Lake branch of the Northern Pacific Railway, run- 
 ning to Leeds, and the James River branch, running to 
 Oakes, at which point connection is made with the Chicago 
 & North-Western Railway, start from here. Connection is 
 made at Edgeley with the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul 
 Railwav. The products here are wheat, oats, flax, barley 
 and ^•egetables. Grain is the principal shipment, and stock- 
 raising is receiving much attention. 
 
 Bismarck. — Population, 2,200. Bismarck is the capital of 
 
22 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 North Dakota, and the county seat of Burleigh County. It 
 has a fine capitol building, St. Clary's Catholic Seminary, 
 and a United States land office. All' branches of trade are 
 well represented. The products are wheat, oats and pota- 
 toes, and a good farming country is also tributary, the lands 
 to the north, in the Painted Woods district, and around 
 Washburn, being especially fine. This section has been 
 rapidly settled within the last two years by a fine class of 
 farmers. Immense deposits of lignite coal underlie the prai- 
 rie country and provide a low-priced and inexhaustible 
 supply of fuel. There are extensive mines at Wilton and 
 
 NORTHERN PACIFIC RY. STATION, RISMARCK, h. D. 
 
 Washburn, on the B. W. & G. F. Railway. Fort Lincoln, a 
 new military post, is in process of construction just south of 
 Bismarck. Steamers receiving and discharging general 
 merchandise and supplies run occasionally to and from 
 upper Missouri River forts, posts and landings. Williams- 
 port, Winchester, Fort Yates, and Standing Rock Indian 
 Agency, to the south, are reached by stages daily, except 
 Sunday. Fort Stevenson, Fort Berthold Indian Agency, 
 and Villard, in the Alouse River country, to the north, are 
 reached by stage daily, except Sunday, from Washburn. 
 The Bismarck, \\'ashburn & Great Falls Railway extends 
 from Bismarck to W'ashburn. 
 
 Mandan. — Population, i,8oo. This city is the county seat 
 of Morton County and is situated on the west bank of the 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 23 
 
 Missouri River. Mandan has large railway machine shops, a 
 roller flouring mill, an elevator, a court-house and jail, a school 
 building, electric light and water-works systems, etc. Busi- 
 ness blocks of a superior red brick — home manufacture — 
 have been completed. An excellent Cjuality of lignite coal 
 is being mined for commercial and railroad purposes a few 
 miles west of the city. Two iron wagon bridges over the 
 Heart River give easy communication with the rich farming 
 valleys of "Custer" and "Little Heart," five and twelve 
 miles southwest, respectively. -Five miles south from Man- 
 dan is what is left, of old Fort -Abraham Lincoln, General 
 Custer's old post, and from which he started on his last and 
 disastrous campaign against the Sioux Indians in 1876. The 
 
 HEART RIVER, 
 
 change from Central to Mountain new standard time is 
 made here. 
 
 New Salem. — Population, 400. The town has lumber 
 yards, flour mill, grain warehouse, creamery, elevators, and 
 a tannery. Lignite coal is found in abundance ; also excel- 
 lent clay for brick and tile-making. 
 
 Glenullen. — Population, 450. Has lumber j^ards and a 
 flour mill. There is an abundance of good coal here, and 
 clay for brick-making is also found in this locality. 
 
 Hebron. — Population, 500. This is the headquarters for 
 stock, cattle and sheep, between Dickinson and Mandan. It 
 has roller mills, creameries, grain elevators, lumber yards, 
 implement warehouses, stock yards,, etc. 
 
 Dickinson. — Population, 2,200. This city is the county 
 seat of Stark County, and is located on the Heart River. 
 The products are wheat, oats, corn, barley, and potatoes. 
 
24 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 This is one of the largest cattle-shipping points on the 
 Northern Pacific line. Sheep-raising has grown (luring the 
 past few years to be one of the principal industries. Exten- 
 sive beds of lignite coal are located east of Dickinson, and 
 large quantities are being mined for shipment east and west. 
 Medora and Little Missouri (Medora P. O.).— Population, 
 200. This is the central point for Pyramid Park, being but 
 four miles distant from Cedar Canyon, and six miles from 
 the burning coal mines. Both places abound in weird and 
 magnificent scenery, full of interest to scientists and wonder 
 to pleasure seekers. An army of spires, bluffs, hills, buttes, 
 and castled cliffs rise from the plain, garbed in strong and 
 
 A NORTH DAKOTA FARM. 
 
 Striking colors that glow here and there like fiery beacons. 
 These hills, washed by the eternal rains, have been eroded 
 into most perfect cones, pyramids, and squares, which are 
 circumvallated by ragged, twisting ravines gouged out by 
 the torrential and ephemeral floods, which use up their spas- 
 modic energy in forming the gulches. The coal beds have 
 burned out — and in places are still burning — and the parti- 
 colored hills are the residuum — here virtual ash, there a 
 slag. These buttes and draws are covered with a most suc- 
 culent grass that furnishes feed for thousands of cattle, and 
 the gulches provide them shelter. 
 
 West of Medora a few miles the train passes through an 
 interesting prairie-dog town. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 25 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 Wibaux. — Population, 300. Situated on Beaver Creek, 
 Wibaux is in the midst of a fine grazing country, and large 
 horse, cattle, and sheep ranges are in the vicinity. Lignite 
 coal is found in abundance. 
 
 Glendive. — Population, 1,500. The county seat of Daw- 
 son County, located on the Yellowstone River. It is the 
 junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone divisions of the 
 
 PRAIRIE DOGS AT UOME. 
 
 Northern Pacific. It is the distributing point for a large 
 area of fine country, and produces wheat, barley, corn, rye, 
 oats, and vegetables, and shipments are made of cattle, 
 horses, sheep and wool. Stages are run tri-weekly between 
 here and Fort Buford, a distance of eighty miles. 
 
 Miles City. — Population, 1,938. This city is the county 
 seat of Custer County, situated on the Yellowstone River, 
 at the mouth of the Tongue River. It has a United States 
 land office, water works, brick yard, hospital. State Reform 
 School, convent, wool house, telephone line, and stores. It 
 
26 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is the wool center for eastern Montana, and also produces 
 oats, wheat, corn, barley, and potatoes, while its shipments 
 are stock, wool, beef, hi'des, etc. Miles City is the banking 
 and general business point for the large area of cattle coun- 
 try both north and south of the Yellowstone River. 
 
 Fort Keogh. — Population, 500. A military post of nine 
 companies occupies the fort. It is located two miles west of 
 Tongue River, and half a mile south of the Yellowstone 
 River. 
 
 The Custer Fight and Battlefield. — The impression ex- 
 
 GROUP OF OFFICERS OF THE SE\ENT]T 
 
 .->. CAVALRY. 
 
 ists, particularly among eastern people, that the spot where 
 Custer and so many of his men laicl down their lives is far 
 remote from transportation lines, and difficult of access. 
 That was certainly true on that fated 25th of June, 1876, 
 when disaster overtook the Seventh United States Cavalry. 
 But now the Custer battlefield is only about the same dis- 
 tance — forty miles — from Custer station, on the Northern 
 Pacific Railway, that Washington is from Baltimore. 
 
 Custer Station is near the mouth of the Big Horn River, 
 and the ride, by private conveyance, up the valleys of the 
 
MONTANA 
 
 27 
 
 Big Horn and Little Big Horn rivers to the battlefield, is 
 one of exceeding interest, and, at places, of beauty. 
 
 From Billings it is but a seventy-five miles' stretch via 
 the Burlington Route, which there connects with the North- 
 ern Pacific, to the same spot, if one chooses to go entirely by 
 railway. 
 
 In May, 1876, a triangular campaign was inaugurated 
 against the Sioux and allied 
 
 tribes. From Fort Fetterman, . -"""^^ ~"^-^. 
 
 Wyo., General Crook, the < \ 
 
 greatest Indian fighter of his 
 day, marched north with 1,000 
 men ; from Fort Abraham 
 Lincoln, Dak. (now Xorth 
 Dakota), went General Terry 
 westward with another thou- 
 sand ; from Fort Ellis, near 
 Bozeman, Mont., General Gib- 
 bon marched eastward with 
 about 450 men. 
 
 On June 21, Terry's and 
 Gibbon's commands formed 
 junction near the mouth of the 
 Rosebud River. Terry in su- 
 preme command. 
 
 At this point a plan of campaign was adopted, and in pur- 
 suance thereof Custer and the Seventh Cavalry started, at 
 noon on June 22, up the Rosebud River, to strike a broad 
 Indian trail that Reno had found during a previous scout. 
 
 Custer was in comand of his regiment on this march, and 
 there were twelve troops or companies, and the munber of 
 men aggregated about 550 or 600. 
 
 It must be borne in mind that the phrase "Custer Battle- 
 field" includes three distinct fields of battle: Reno's point 
 of attack in the valley proper, the bluffs across the river to 
 which he retreated and where the Indians attacked him, and 
 Custer's own battlefield some miles down the river from the 
 scene of Reno's engagements. 
 
 Reno's attack upon the Indians was at a bend of the river 
 on the west bank, about two miles from where he forded the 
 stream. Custer's field of carnage was more than four miles 
 down the stream from Reno's BlufTs, on the high ground 
 
 GENER.AL CUSTER. 
 
28 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 which was a continuation of the line of hills where the In- 
 dians penned in Reno. 
 
 The number of Indians at that time camped in the valley 
 has been a fruitful theme for disputation. There were cer- 
 tainly 1,500 warriors, and there may have been twice that 
 number, or even more. They were well armed with the 
 most improved American rifles, bows and arrows, and their 
 usual stone implements of war. 
 
 These Indians were mostly of the Uncpapa, Brule, Oga- 
 lalla, Minneconjou, and Sans Arcs bands of Sioux, assisted 
 by the Cheyennes and a few from one or two other tribes. 
 
 LOOKIN'G SnUTIUVEST FROM CUSTER MONUMENT. 
 
 Reno attacked the Indians at the south end of their village 
 and was quickly routed and driven to the blufTs across the 
 river in a panic rout, losing many men killed and wounded, 
 the latter being of course despatched by the Indians as soon 
 as captured. 
 
 Before Custer could get anywhere near that part of the 
 village which he expected to attack, Reno was defeated and 
 driven off. 
 
 After Custer left the remainder of the command he sent 
 back two couriers, but this was before he sighted or came in 
 contact with the Indians. 
 
 The Indians attacked, not from the river, but on the 
 flanks and rear. The horses were, most of them probably. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 21» 
 
 first stampeded, which insured disaster, for they carried the 
 reserve ammunition. But few dead horses were found, the 
 Indians capturing the most of them alive. 
 
 Custer's fight lasted from thirty to forty-five minutes, the 
 Indians say, and he was simply overwhelmed and cut to 
 pieces. 
 
 The detachments or troops were stationed, apparently, 
 at different points, somewhat remote from each other, where 
 they fell fighting, generally well grouped together. At a 
 
 CUSTER HILL, FROM LITTLE 
 
 HORN RIVER. 
 
 few places one or two bodies were found, as if the victims 
 had made efforts to escape, but not one succeeded. 
 
 The total casualties were 265 killed and fifty-two 
 wounded, for both Custer and Reno. The Indians' loss has 
 never been satisfactorily known to the whites. 
 
 Where each trooper fell a marble stone marks the spot, 
 and where it was an officer the stone bears his name and 
 rank. 
 
 Most of the officers' bodies were afterward removed, and 
 Custer's body now rests at West Point. Lieutenant Crit- 
 tenden's body lies in an enclosure over at the end of the 
 
30 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ridge where he fell, and it is stated that Lieutenant IMcIn- 
 tosh's body remains where it was found, and is buried down 
 in the valley proper. The spot where he fell is marked by 
 the con^'entional headstone. 
 
 Since the Custer battle, the Custer field itself, enclosed by 
 a wire fence, has been made a national or soldiers' cemetery. 
 From the old forts and battlefields scattered throughout the 
 Northwest, bodies have been removed to this spot, and now 
 occupy a considerable area of it. 
 
 Billings. — Population, 3,221. Billings is the county seat of 
 Yellowstone County, and is the commercial, financial, rail- 
 road, and distributing center for the country for a radius of 
 150 miles. It is situated at the first crossing of the beautiful 
 Yellowstone Ri^-er, and is the largest wool-shipping point 
 in the state. The city is situated at the mouth of the famous 
 Yellowstone Valley irrigating ditch, thirty-nine miles in 
 length, and the Canyon Creek and other smaller ditches. 
 This valley produces the choicest wheat, oats, barley, vege- 
 tables and small fruits of all kinds, besides apples, corn, and 
 alfalfa and other tame grasses. Located in a valley which 
 produces the needs of a city with 25,000 people, with ever- 
 lasting stone quarries, cheap coal, an abundance of water, 
 and with its stock range to the north and south for a dis- 
 tance of two hundred miles, Billings offers to the investor 
 or the home-seeker great inducements. Two million acres of 
 the once noted Crow Indian Reservation have been thrown 
 open to settlement, furnishing homes and stock ranges for 
 all that come, and within a few hours' drive of Billings. The 
 B. & AI. R. Railway connects with the Northern Pacific at this 
 point. 
 
 At Pompey's Pillar Station, west of Forsythe and about 
 thirty miles east of Billings, Pompey's Pillar, made historic 
 by Capt. William Clark, of the noted explorers of 1804-6, 
 is seen to the north about a mile distant. 
 
 Laurel. — Population, 100. This is the junction of the 
 main line of the Northern Pacific and the Rocky Fork and 
 Clark Fork branches, which run to Red Lodge and Bridger. 
 
 Bigtimber. — Population, 1,200. The county seat of Sweet 
 Grass County, situated on the Yellowstone and Boulder 
 rivers. It is the outlet for an almost exclusivelv stock- 
 raising, wool-growing and mining section. 
 
 Springdale, located near the Yellowstone River, is the 
 station for the celebrated Hunter's Hot Springs, which are 
 
MONTANA 
 
 31 
 
 only two and a half miles distant and are reached by hacks, 
 which meet all passenger trains. The Springs hotels are 
 open the 3'ear 'round. The water ranges in temperature 
 from 148° to 168° Fahr., and is in three groups, having an 
 aggregate flow of 2,500 gallons per minute. 
 
 Livingston. — Population, 4,500. Livingston is the county 
 seat of Park County, situated on the Yellowstone River, 
 three miles below the famous first canyon of the Yellow- 
 stone, otherwise known as the Gate of the Mountains. It 
 has the best system of water works in the state, two systems 
 
 LIVINGSTON, MONT. 
 
 of electric light, a system of telephones, a flouring mill and 
 lumber yards. It is the junction of the Yellowstone Park 
 branch with the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, 
 and all tourists reaching the park by rail pass through Liv- 
 ingston. The city is in the midst of one of the finest stock- 
 growing and farming countries in the world. Tributary to 
 Livingston, in a commercial way, are the thriving mining 
 camps of Ckico, Chimney Rock, Horr, Aldrich, Bear Gulch, 
 Crevice, and Cook City. Horr has the largest coking plant 
 in the entire state. The garrison at Fort Yellowstone, and 
 '-.he various transportation lines in the park, all pay tribute 
 to Livingston and to Park County. 
 
32 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. 
 
 As is now generally known, Yellowstone Park is prin- 
 cipally located in northwestern Wyoming. There is a nar- 
 row strip in Montana, on the north, and one in Idaho, on 
 the west. 
 
 As established by law, its area is 3,312 square miles. On 
 the northwest, north, east, and south it is hemmed in by 
 high mountain ranges, whose highest peaks attain an alti- 
 
 TIIE START THROUGH THE PARK. 
 
 tude of from 10,000 to 12,000 or 13,000 feet above sea level. 
 Between these ranges the Park plateau is an undulating one, 
 from 7,200 to 8,300 feet elevation above the sea. It is a 
 region of much rain and snowfall, and the forest develop- 
 ment is great and the park flora unusual and varied. The 
 great Continental Divide extends from the southeastern 
 corner northwesterly across the Park, and the tourist 
 crosses it on the way from Upper Geyser Basin to Yellow- 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 33 
 
 stone Lake, amidst a region of wild grandeur and primeval 
 beauty. 
 
 Road System. — Congress has decreed that travel through 
 the park must be in the good, old-fashioned way — over dirt 
 roads; that steam or electric railways, automobiles, etc., are 
 out of place there. 
 
 The more striking phenomena in Yellowstone Park follow 
 a well-defined zone some miles wide and with 
 an axial trend north and south from Mammoth - --, 
 
 Hot Springs. The road system, as planned, 
 follows down one side — the western — of this i 
 
 zone to Upper Geyser Basin, crosses the Con- 
 tinental Divide to Yellowstone Lake, and then • 
 runs north along the eastern side to the Grand ; . i 
 Canyon, over the Movmt Washburn-Dunraven 
 Divide to Tower Fall, and thence to Mammoth 
 Hot Springs^ The only uncompleted link in 
 this chain is from the Grand Canvon to Tower 
 Fall. 
 
 Transport.\tion and Hotels. — The trans- 
 portation equipment in the Park 
 consists of stage coaches made 
 especially to fit the necessities of 
 Yellowstone Park travel and are 
 drawn by four horses each. 
 They are open at the sides so that 
 the passengers can easily see the 
 country while riding along, and 
 are supplied with curtains to be 
 drawn in case of 
 rain or wind. The 
 coaches are of dif- 
 ferent sizes and will 
 hold three, five, 
 seven or more pas- 
 sengers each. Stop- 
 overs will be given 
 at or south of Mammoth Hot Springs without extra charge. 
 Parties desiring to stop en route and retain exclusive 
 use of the coach in which they commenced their journey 
 can do so on payment of half rates for the additional 
 time, as follows : a surrey accommodating three people, $7.50 
 per day ; coaches accommodating from five to ten persons, 
 
 PARK COACH. 
 
34 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 $12.50 to $15 a day. Children under ten years of age, accom- 
 panied by parents or other persons in charge, will be granted 
 
 half rates locally in the Park for 
 hotels and transportation. 
 
 The Park hotels are first-class 
 in every respect, and have been 
 recently improved and modern- 
 ized. They are electric lighted, 
 steam heated, and advantageous- 
 ly located. The uniform hotel 
 rate for a stay not exceeding 
 seven days is $4 per day. After 
 seven days the rate is $3 per day. 
 Telegraphic messages can be sent 
 from the association hotels to 
 any part of the world. Bicyclists 
 are heartily welcome at the ho- 
 tels, and a bicycle trip is a thor- 
 oughly enjoyable one. 
 
 The Tour of the Park, — In 
 going to Yellowstone Park, the 
 main line of the Northern Pacific 
 Railway is diverged from at Liv- 
 ingston, Mont. From Livingston 
 to Gardiner, the gateway to the 
 Park, and fifty-four miles dis- 
 tant, a branch line leads up Para- 
 dise Valley and alongside the 
 Yellowstone River, affording a 
 most delightful ride, and one 
 that forms a fitting prelude to 
 what follows. 
 
 This line, which stops at the 
 northern boundary, is the only 
 one that touches the Park at any 
 point. On each of the transcon- 
 tinental trains that carry the bulk 
 of the travel to and from the 
 Park, both east and westbound, 
 a Pullman first-class sleeping car 
 is attached that runs between St. 
 Paul and Gardiner, and another 
 that runs between Gardiner and Seattle. Passengers in these 
 
 ,¥■ 
 
 EAGLE NEST CRAG. 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 35 
 
 cars bound for the Park remain in them until Gardiner is 
 reached and take the cars at Gardiner when leaving the Park. 
 
 Between Gardiner and Mammoth Hot ^piinj^s large, si\ 
 horse stage coaches are run, the tourist readiing 
 the Springs in time for luncheon, and lea\nii. 
 there after dinner, when leaving the Park 
 The four-mile ride between these points is 
 full of interest. Electric Peak and Sepulchi c 
 Mountain being in full view, and a ride 
 along the dashing Gardiner River, 
 through the Gardiner Canyon being at- 
 tractive features. 
 
 The scenery along the Gardiner is 
 beautiful. The most striking and 
 noted of the conspicuous objects is 
 Eagle Nest Crag, a solitary round- 
 ed column upon the inaccessible 
 apex of which is perched an / 
 eagle's nest. 
 
 M A M M o T n H o T 
 Springs. — This place 
 is, as it were, the capital 
 of Yellowstone Park. 
 
 Here are Fort Yel- 
 lowstone and the mili- ; 
 tary commandant, the 
 latter also the acting 
 superintendent of the 
 Park ; the headquarters 
 of the United States 
 Engineer who has 
 
 GOLDEN GATE, YELLOWSTONE PARK. 
 
 charge of all engineering operations, road and bridge construc- 
 tion, etc., in the Park ; the offices of the hotel and transporta- 
 tion companies, and from this point the actual tour of the Park 
 is begun. 
 
36 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 At this point the principal hot springs with their accom- 
 panying terraces are found. 
 
 These singular springs cover a wide area on the side of 
 Terrace Mountain. One tier succeeds another, and the 
 trail winds from one to the other by easy gradients. At the 
 base stand Giant's Thumb and Liberty Cap, extinct geysers 
 or spring cones of peculiar appearance. Above, lie Cleo- 
 patra, Minerva, Pulpit, Mound, and Jupiter Terraces. Still 
 higher are the Devil's Kitchen, Cupid's Cave, Narrow 
 Gauge Terrace, the White Elephant, Angel Terrace, etc. 
 At another point are Bath Lake and Orange Geyser. 
 
 After breakfast the following day tourists making the 
 regular tour take the coaches, being grouped as far as pos- 
 sible in congenial parties. Straight toward Bunsen Peak, 
 by way of Silver Gate and Hoodoo Rocks, they go, and then 
 the road turns to the right and Golden Gate opens before 
 them. On one side Bunsen Peak climbs skyward, on the 
 other the vertical yellowish wall of rock rises 200 to 300 feet 
 above. Soon the end of it is reached and the road leads out 
 and down a large and beautiful valley. Swan Valley is its 
 name. Following in succession come Willow Park, Obsid- 
 ian Cliff, a huge, black rampart of nature's glass of more 
 than 200 feet altitude, Beaver Lake, Roaring Mountain, 
 The Devil's Frying Pan, and Twin Lakes. Then Norris 
 Geyser Basin, with its noises and clouds, comes into view. 
 
 There are many springs, pools, and geysers at Norris. 
 The two finest geysers are the New Crater and the Mon- 
 arch. Congress Spring and the beautiful marble terraces 
 across the road from it command our admiration at once. 
 The Black Growler is the only steam geyser in the Park, 
 and it is always roaring. Constant Geyser is due to dance 
 and play every fifty seconds, and it is always on time. The 
 Devil's Ink Pot and the Hurricane Geyser are two more of 
 the family to be seen at Norris. 
 
 Along Gibbon River. — One of the most enjoyable drives 
 in the Park is that from Norris to Lower Geyser Basin. 
 By the roadside is Gibbon River. As the canyon grows 
 wilder, the river races along more madly. Rocks and boul- 
 ders strew its bed, and islands rise in mid-stream. Over 
 and around these it tears, scattering its spray over bush and 
 tree, until it reaches Gibbon Fall, where it tumbles down in 
 a wide, silvery sheet over eighty feet into still gloomier 
 depths. 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
38 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Leaving this canyon the road winds across a piney pla- 
 teau to the Firehole River. The cascades of the Firehole 
 are very interesting and the river itself is one of peculiar 
 beauty. 
 
 The Geysers and Hot Springs. — There are three im- 
 portant geyser basins in the Park — after leaving Norris 
 Basin — and they are near together. These are the Lower, 
 Midway, and Upper geyser basins. At the Lower Basin 
 are the Fountain and Clepysdra geysers, and the wonderful 
 
 GREAT FOUNTAIN GEYSER, LOWER GEYSER BASIN. 
 
 Paint Pots. The Paint Pots are curious things. The finest 
 of clay is superheated and continually boils in a sluggish 
 sort of way. The clay is of the most delicate hues of pink, 
 pearl, white, etc. 
 
 A mile and a half farther on, and easily reached by bi- 
 cycle, tourist wagon, or by walking, lies a hidden basin full 
 of nature's caprices. At the entrance stands the White 
 Dome Geyser. Beyond is a collection of exquisite springs 
 and pools, and the splendid Great Fountain Geyser, the 
 latter being one of the geyser captains of the Park, and a 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 39 
 
 regular leviathan. At the Midway Basin, four miles distant 
 from the Lower Basin, are Excelsior, the greatest geyser in 
 the world when in operation, Turquoise Spring, and Pris- 
 matic Lake. 
 
 The Upper Geyser Basin is the goal of the tourist, so far 
 as the geysers are con- 
 cerned. There are here 
 about a dozen geysers that 
 expel the contents of their 
 reservoirs to heights rang- 
 ing from one hundred to 
 two hundred and fifty feet. 
 There are as many more 
 that play to elevations less 
 than one hundred feet. 
 
 The Castle has a very 
 large castellated, siliceous 
 cone ; the Grand has none 
 whatever. The Oblong 
 and the Giantess each ex- 
 pel their contents from 
 deep, pit-like reservoirs, 
 but there the resemblance 
 between them ends. The 
 Bee Hive and Old Faithful 
 each have cones, as entirely 
 unlike as are their splendid 
 columns of water and va- 
 por. 
 
 Old Faithful is the trav- 
 eler's delight. It can al- 
 ways be counted on ; its dis- 
 play is always a fine one, 
 and it is maintained year 
 in and year out with, per- 
 haps, more regularity, not 
 only as to time but also as 
 to character, than any 
 geyser in the Park. 
 
 The Black Sand Spring is a beautiful turquoise-blue pool 
 having an outlet like unto a variegated ribbon. Emerald 
 Pool is another and larger, of a perfect emerald-green. Sun- 
 set Lake, the largest of them all, is the most superb and 
 
 OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER. 
 
40 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 beautiful example of brilliant and varied coloring that was 
 probably ever seen, not in the Park only, but anywhere else. 
 Across the Contine-ntal Divide. — Between the Upper 
 Geyser Basin and Yellowstone Lake, where the road winds 
 across the Continental Divide, the ride through the Park 
 is especially wild and inspiring. Soon after leaving the 
 Upper Basin, Keppler Cascade is passed. It is in a canyon 
 
 KEPPLER S CASCADE. 
 
 at the side of the road, and the coaches stop there that tour- 
 ists may alight and view it. 
 
 In the midst of the mountains Shoshone Point is reached. 
 From the Point, Shoshone Lake lies shimmering far below 
 in the very embrace of the mountains. 
 
 At Shoshone Lake there is an interesting family of gey- 
 sers that some day will attract many visitors. 
 
 Yellowstone Lake. — The position of Yellowstone Lake 
 in'the Park tour is a most happ}' one. Hemmed in by moun- 
 tains, its shore line a most irregular and indented one, it 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 41 
 
 is not only a beautiful sheet of water, but it adds a needed 
 and most acceptable variety to the marvelous scenery of the 
 park. Its elevation, 7,721 feet, and its being navigated by 
 a steel steamer built in the Mississippi Valley and trans- 
 
 GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
 ported across prairies and mountains to its mountain-girt 
 sea, gives still an additional interest and attraction to it. 
 
 To AND About the Grand Canyon. — The road be- 
 tween the lake and the Grand Canyon follows the Yellow- 
 stone River, crossing Hayden Valley. Two prominent ob- 
 
42 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 jects are passed — Mud Volcano and Crater Hills. The for- 
 mer is a conical vent in the side of a hill, where there is a 
 continual belching of mud. 
 
 Crater Hills are also known as Sulphur Mountain. They 
 
 LOWER FALL, FROM POINT LOOKOUT. 
 
 consist of two low hills, between which the road runs, and 
 of which sulphur is one of the component parts. At the 
 base of one of them is a boiling sulphur spring, some ten to 
 fifteen feet in diameter. 
 
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 43 
 
 While it is true that the geysers are the most unusual 
 of all that is seen in the Park, it is equally true that the 
 Grand Canyon impresses people the most profoundly. 
 
 At its head is a cataract nearly twice the height of Ni- 
 agara. Not quite a mile back of that is another fall more 
 than 100 feet high. Over the precipices found at these 
 points the great river flowing from the big lake and the 
 mountains beyond, plunges in two entirely dissimilar and 
 majestic waterfalls. Either one of them if situated nearer 
 
 BUFFALO IN YELLOWSTONE NAT L PARK. 
 
 to the centers of population would make the reputation of 
 its locality. 
 
 The canyon itself, disassociated, if it were possible, from 
 the falls, is a supremely perfect piece of creation. 
 
 The walls of this wonderful canyon drop, vertical and 
 jagged, deep into the abyss, succeeded by long slopes 
 smoothed and almost polished by the action of the elements. 
 Far down at the bottom rushes the mighty river, its deep, 
 beautiful emerald modulated by the foam, as it sweeps 
 around the bases of gigantic buttresses and tumbles over 
 small precipices, or rushes down bowlder-strewn declivities. 
 As for color — but hold ! If you remember how, in a kaleido- 
 
44 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 
 
 scope, the colors apparently rush together indiscriminately 
 and without order, and yet arrange themselves in beautiful 
 harmony and combination, you may know something of 
 how these reds and grays, and whites and browns, and 
 yellows and lavenders, and blacks and greens, run together 
 in glorious and harmonic confusion. 
 
 As it concerns the tourist, there are about four miles of 
 this color symphony, although the canyon is twenty miles 
 in length. Its greatest depth is 1,200 feet, not more. There 
 is a fine road winding along the left brink from the head 
 above the Lower Fall, past Point Lookout and Grand View 
 to Castle Ruins and Inspiration Point. The places that 
 project out into the canyon have good trails leading to them 
 and they are railed about so that there is absolute safety. 
 There are innumerable views of the canyon to be had and 
 no two alike. 
 
 Wild Animals in the Park. — It is undeniable that, 
 to many tourists, the wild animals in the Park are a source 
 of as much interest as are the geysers. This fact justifies 
 the efforts made by the Government for the protection and 
 natural propagation of the game animals indigenous to the 
 region. While the present Park affords an unsurpassed 
 summer range and breeding ground for antelope, elk. deer, 
 bear, moose, mountain sheep, etc., it is not so well fitted for 
 a winter range. 
 
 Moose, deer, and antelope are found in moderate numbers. 
 The antelope range is such that coyotes kill many of them, 
 and hvmters have heretofore shot many when the animals 
 were compelled, in severe winters, to cross the line of the 
 Park. 
 
 There are several bands of mountain sheep in the Park, 
 but they are rarely seen except in winter. 
 
 The bears are very much in evidence. The black, brown, 
 and grizzly, all are to be found. They are inoffensive and 
 one of the sights of the Park. 
 
 There are thousands of elks and they frequent many local- 
 ities. In an enclosure at Mammoth Hot Springs there are 
 usually a number of young elks and deer, and a study of 
 them is most interesting. 
 
 The buffaloes, or bisons, that once were so numerous in 
 the Park, have sadly decreased in numbers. How many 
 there may be is not really known, but there are probably not 
 to exceed fifty. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 45 
 
 BozEMAN Tunnel. — Altitude, 5,550 feet ; length, 6,652 feet. 
 
 Chestnut. — Population, 500. This is a coal-mining town, 
 the output of five mines being shipped from here. It is the 
 junction for the Yellowstone Railroad, which penetrates the 
 rich coal fields at Hoffman, Kountz, and Cook. A recent 
 strike at the Chestnut mine opened up a vein of eighteen 
 feet of coal. 
 
 Bozeman. — Population, 3,419. Bozeman is the county 
 seat of Gallatin County, situated on the East Gallatin River. 
 It has the State Agricultural College and the State Ex- 
 periment Station, United 
 States Fish Hatchery, a 
 flouring mill, grain eleva- 
 tors, planing mill, brewery, 
 United States land office, 
 a Carnegie library and an 
 iron foundry. There are 
 extensive coal fields within 
 eight miles, and some val- 
 uable deposits of corim- 
 dum within fourteen miles. 
 Gold, silver and copper de- 
 posits are nearby. The sur- 
 
 W -%..»ff..- .twrty//iW«« . 
 
 STREET IN BOZEMAN, MONT. 
 
 rounding country is famous for its fine farms, which have never 
 experienced a crop failure, and the land is well timbered on the 
 streams and mountains. Heavy crops of wheat, barley, 
 oats, rye and hay are raised by irrigation, there being four 
 immense canals and numberless smaller ones intersecting 
 the valley. 
 
 Manhattan. — Population, loo. Is situated in the center of 
 the beautiful Gallatin Valley, on the west banks of the West 
 Gallatin River, which furnishes water power and abundant 
 supply for irrigation. This point is the center of a fertile 
 farming country. Here is located one of the largest grain 
 
46 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 elevators west of St. Paul, also a large malt house. The 
 town has a lumber yard. One of the largest irrigation 
 canals in Montana is easily accessible from Manhattan. The 
 lands along this canal are considered among the finest in 
 the West for agricultural purposes. 
 
 Logan. — Population, 150. This is a junction point where 
 the line via Helena, and the "Butte Line" to Butte, diverge, 
 and is situated on the Gallatin River. 
 
 PAINTED ROCK AND MISSOURI CANYON GALLATIN RANGE, MONT. 
 
 The Gallatin Valley. — The Gallatin Valley, which ex- 
 tends from Bozeman to Logan, is hemmed in on the north- 
 east by the Bridger Mountains and on the east by the Gal- 
 latin Range. The general elevation of the valley ranges 
 from 4,000 to 4,500 feet, and it is one of the most fertile 
 as well as most beautiful valleys in the Northwest. Clover, 
 alfalfa, wheat, and particularly barley, thrive wonderfully. 
 Irrigation is necessary on the bottom lands, but not on the 
 bench lands, and there is an almost unlimited water supply 
 
MONTANA 
 
 47 
 
 coming from the various streams that form the Gallatin 
 River. 
 
 Lombard. — This is the junction point with the Montana 
 Railroad, this line passing through the picturesque Sixteen- 
 Mile Canyon, the line being completed through to Lewistovvn 
 during the summer of 1903. At Dorsey stage connections are 
 made with White Sulphur Springs, distant seventeen miles, 
 the county seat of Meagher County, and noted for its hot 
 sulphur springs, with their 
 great medicmal properties ; at 
 Freeman's, stage connections 
 are made with the mining 
 camp of Castle, distant five 
 miles ; at Martinsdale, connec- 
 tion is made h\ stage with the 
 flourishing Copperopolis min- 
 ing district. At Twodot, a 
 trading point situated m one 
 of the most fertile sections 
 
 A HELENA TPIOROUGMFARE. 
 
 of the Musselshell Valley, and at Harlowton (formerly Me- 
 rino), and Lewistown, connections are made with Ubet, Gar- 
 neill and all important points in this section of Montana, in- 
 cluding the Judith basin and Utica and the flourishing mining 
 camps of New Year, Gilt Edge, Maiden and Maginnis. 
 
 Townsend. — Population, 446. Townsend is the county 
 seat of Broadwater County and is situated on the Missouri 
 River. A number of silver and gold mines in the immediate 
 
48 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 vicinity are being worked on the old plan, without ma- 
 chinery. The principal products of the surrounding valley 
 are wheat and oats. A coach runs daily to Hassell (Old St. 
 Louis) gold mining district, ten miles distant. This district 
 is being extensively worked, the ore being free milling and 
 of a high grade. 
 
 Prickley Pear Junction, or East Helena. — Population, 
 1,200. This is the junction point of the main line with the 
 Wickes, Boulder and Elkhorn branches. Large smelting 
 works are located here, and have a capacity of 250 tons per 
 day. The town is connected with Helena by an electric car 
 line. 
 
 Helena. — Population, 15,000. Helena is the capital of the 
 
 EAST HELENA SMELTER. 
 
 state, and the county seat of Lewis and Clarke County. It is 
 the commercial, financial, railroad, and distributing center 
 of the state. It has a building and loan association. United 
 States Circuit and District courts. United States land office. 
 United States assay office, offices of the United States Mar- 
 shal, Collector of Internal Revenue, Quartermaster of the 
 United States Army, State Armory building, an orphans' 
 home, and the Montana University (Methodist). There are 
 eighteen miles of electric car lines, one electric light and gas 
 company, and a power plant on the Missouri River, capable 
 of transmitting 10,000 horse power to the city for manufac- 
 turing purposes. It has a foundry, planing mills, breweries, 
 
MONTANA 
 
 49 
 
 flouring mill, cracker factory, soap and candy factories, be- 
 sides other manufacturing establishments. Its jobbing and 
 retail trade is large. Helena is situated in the center of a 
 mineral region, unsurpassed in Montana or elsewhere for 
 the number and richness of its gold and silver-bearing lodes, 
 there being within a radius of twenty-five miles over 3,000 
 quartz lodes, which have been claimed and recorded, and 
 several hundred patented. Besides the gold and silver 
 lodes, veins of galena, copper, and iron are found, and mil- 
 lions of dollars will be invested in the construction of mills 
 and smelters, thus giving employment to thousands of men. 
 The branch railroad to Wickes. Boulder, Basin and Elkhorn, 
 
 PIONEER, MONT. FIRST GOLD FOUND NEAR HERE IN 1S52. 
 
 running fifty-five miles south, opens up celebrated mining 
 districts, and furnishes transportation to mines heretofore 
 almost inaccessible. That to Marysville, twenty-two miles 
 west, opens up one of the richest gold fields in the state. 
 The Prickley Pear Valley, covering an area fifteen by twen- 
 ty-five miles, lies north, east, and west of Helena, and is 
 famous for its fine crops. The mountains are covered with 
 bunch grass and fine timber, and are excellent stock ranges. 
 The exports consist of large quantities of bullion and ore, 
 cattle, sheep, and hides. 
 
 MuLLAN Tunnel. — Altitude, 5,548: length, 3,875 feet. 
 
 Garrison. — Population, 105. Is located on Hell Gate 
 River, near the mouth of the Little Blackfoot. Being the 
 junction where the Helena and Butte lines diverge, west of the 
 
50 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 mountains, and the diverging point for Deer Lodge, Anaconda, 
 Butte, etc., makes it an important railroad point. 
 
 Gold Creek. — Population, loo. The first discovery of 
 gold in Montana was made near this place in 1852. The 
 town is eight miles west of Garrison, and has saw mills, a 
 store, and a harness shop. Valuable mines of silver and 
 lead are being operated in the Dunkleberg mining district, 
 twelve miles distant. Placer mines are at Pioneer, seven 
 miles distant. 
 
 Drummond. — Population, 150. This town is located in 
 the Granite Mountain mining region, and in the fertile Flint 
 Valley. Sheep, cattle and hay raising are the chief pursuits 
 of the people. The Phillipsburg branch of the Northern 
 
 MONTANA STATE CAPITOL. 
 
 Pacific connects with the main line here, running thirty-two 
 miles south, where the Granite Mountain, Bi-Metallic, Com- 
 bination, Sunrise, and numerous other mines are located. 
 One mine has in constant operation a loo-stamp mill, while 
 another has had ten stamps running for twenty-five years, 
 and has during that time paid regular dividends. 
 
 Missoula. — Population, 7,000. Many rich mining proper- 
 ties are being opened up all around Missoula, which is the 
 county seat of Missoula County, and is located on the Mis- 
 soula River. It has good water power and is the distrib- 
 uting point for a large country around. The city has a flour 
 mill and elevator, large mercantile houses, a brewery, bot- 
 tling works. United States land office, a Catholic hospital 
 and convent, free public library, the University of Montana, 
 the division headquarters of the Rocky Mountain division 
 
MONTANA 
 
 51 
 
 of the Northern Pacific Railway, and the roundhouses and 
 shops and Western Divisions hospital of that road. There 
 are two large and fertile valleys lying to the south and west 
 of Missoula, the foremost (the Bitter Root Valley) being 
 traversed by a branch of the Northern Pacific Railway from 
 Missoula to Grantsdale. Grain and vegetables of all kinds 
 are raised in these valleys, and fine berries and fruits are 
 grown there and in Missoula. Four miles to the south lies 
 Fort Missoula, a United States military post. 
 
 The Bitter Root Valley. — The Bitter Root River takes 
 its rise in the Bitter Root Range of the Rocky Mountains 
 about 100 miles south of Missoula. At Missoula it forms a 
 junction with the Hellgate River, from which point the 
 name Missoula is given to the stream. 
 
 NEAR FORT MISSOULA, MONT. 
 
 The Bitter Root Valley is of the same approximate length 
 as the river. It varies in width from a few miles at some 
 places to ten or twelve miles at other points. The valley 
 is bordered on the west by the high and majestic range of 
 the Bitter Root, which not only protects the valley from the 
 cold, western winds, but supplies it with innumerable 
 streams of the purest crystal water. The range is a very 
 lofty one and the snow lies among its higher recesses the 
 year round. In an agricultural way this valley is a marvel. 
 Its general elevation is between 3,000 and 4,000 feet, which 
 allows the range of products to be a wide one. Hay farm- 
 ing has been carried on for many years, the proximity of 
 important mining camps giving an impetus to it. Timothy 
 and clover grow luxuriantly, and yield from two to four 
 4 
 
52 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tons per acre, being worth from $7.50 to $10 per ton, baled 
 and on the cars. 
 
 Dairying and poultry raising are very profitable, the 
 mining camps affording a stable market for all sorts of 
 farm and dairy produce. The valley seems to be specially 
 favorable for apple raising. In the opinion of competent 
 judges, it is not improbable that it will soon produce the 
 
 HOME OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT, BITTER ROOT RANGE. 
 
 best apples in the United States. The area planted to apple 
 orchards is very large and is steadily increasing. Pknns 
 and grapes are perfectly at home ; cherries grow fast and so 
 easily, and prunes grow so thickly that it is hard to believe 
 one is not gazing upon a new variety where they grow like 
 grapes, in clusters. Flavor and color are unusually fine in 
 the Bitter Root Valley fruits. 
 
 Irrigation is necessary in Bitter Root Valley farming, but 
 it is unusually inexpensive and easy. Fewer large canals 
 
MONTANA 53 
 
 are necessary as there are so many small lateral streams 
 from the mountains. These can be easily diverted by small 
 companies, or even by individuals, and, owing to the angle 
 and uniformity of slope, are carried here and there with little 
 expense or physical difficulty. The larger canals are gen- 
 erally owned b}' those having large tracts of land, and, in 
 most cases, are taken out from the Bitter Root River. The 
 valley is well timbered and the mountains are heavily 
 clothed with forests. 
 
 De Smet. — The junction point for the branch line to the 
 Coetfr d'Alene mines. 
 
 Arlee. — Population 25. The town is located on the Flat- 
 head Indian Reservation, and all supplies for the Flathead 
 Indian Agency, four and one-half miles northeast, are re- 
 ceived at this point. 
 
 ANGE, FLATHEAD RESERVATION, MONT. 
 
 Selish is located on the Flathead Indian Reservation, and 
 is a growing town in the Flathead country. This is the 
 shipping point for St. Ignatius Mission, five miles north, 
 and the Flathead Lake country, seventy miles north. The 
 shipments from here are live stock, furs, and hides. From 
 Alay I to November i the stage leaves here three times per 
 week, for the foot of the lake, connecting with boat for 
 Kalispell, Demersville, Egan, Columbia Falls, and other 
 towns in the Flathead Valley country. 
 
 The Fl.vthead Indi.^ns. — At Evaro, the station at the 
 summit of the Mission Range, beyond Missoula, the rail- 
 way enters the Flathead Indian Reservation. The Indians 
 themselves, and their' cabins and tepees, can be seen here 
 and there as the train passes through the reservation. 
 
 The St. Ignatius Mission of the Catholics, reached from 
 Selish, is most interesting. It is an Indian school, ensconced 
 
54 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in one of the most beautiful situations in the world. The 
 glorious Mission Range lies directly back of it. A white, 
 narrow, never-ceasing cascade, 2,000 feet high, drops from 
 the upper altitudes to the glowing recesses below. The 
 Fathers are glad to have visitors, and those who visit the 
 spot will have something to remember for a lifetime. 
 
 The view of the Mission Range, from the divide between 
 Selish and the Mission, is one of those sights most often 
 seen in dreams and in imagination. The Mission, which 
 was establshed here more than a half century ago, is only 
 five miles, by a good road, from Selish. ' 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 Hope. — Population 300. Hope is located on the north 
 shore of Lake Pend d'Oreille, and is principally noted as a 
 
 LAKE TEND D OREILLE AT HOPE. 
 
 resort for summer tourists. Steamers make daily trips to all 
 points on the lake. Silver and lead mines have been discov- 
 ered at Lakeview, Blacktail, and Granite Creek. 
 
 Hauser Junction. — This is the junction point with the 
 Fort Sherman branch, running to Coeur d'Alene City, where 
 connection is made with the Coeur d'Alene l)ranch of the 
 Northern Pacific Railway for all the principal points in 
 the mines of the Coeur d'Alene district. Large shipments 
 are made here of wool and hay. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 55 
 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 Spokane. — Population 37,000. This is the junction of the 
 Rocky Mountain and Idaho divisions of the Northern Pacific 
 Railway, and the location of the roundhouse and large shops 
 of the road. Time changes here from Mountain to Pacific 
 time. Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County, 
 and the commercial metropolis of eastern Washington and 
 northern Idaho. It is beautifully situated on both sides 
 of the Spokane River, on the Idaho division of the 
 Northern Pacific Railway. The following branches of 
 this road radiate from Spokane : The Palouse & Lewis- 
 
 SPOKANE, WASH. 
 
 ton branch, which traverses the rich farming and fruit 
 country of the Palouse, Potlatch, and Clearwater valleys, 
 and is now being extended into the vast and rich agricul- 
 tural and mining regions of central Idaho and the BufTalo 
 Hump ; the Coeur d'Alene branch, which, with its connec- 
 tions, penetrates to the great Coeur d'Alene mining country ; 
 and the Central Washington branch, running west to Coulee 
 City through the heart of the rich Big Bend agricultural 
 section and connecting with the mines of Republic and 
 Okanogan. In addition the city has four other important 
 railroads. Spokane is rapidly becoming one of the great 
 mining centers of the west. The gold, silver, copper, and 
 
56 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 lead mines in tlie vicinit}- give' an annual output of $20,000,- 
 000, and are making Spokane a city of great wealth. The 
 city is surrounded by vast areas of rich agricultural lands, 
 producing annually 30,000,000 bushels of grain and great 
 quantities of all temperate zone fruits, the latter finding 
 valuable markets in the mining camps and in eastern cities. 
 Forty bushels of wheat to the acre are common, and other 
 grains and agricultural products are raised in like abun- 
 dance. Almost all building material, such as the finest 
 lumber, brick, granite, limestone, onyx, and marble, are 
 found or are produced in the vicinity. Besides being a 
 
 
 FALLS AT SPOKANE, WASH. 
 
 mining, jobbing, lumbering, agricultural, railway, and 
 commercial center, the city is an important manufacturing 
 point, being provided by the falls of the Spokane River 
 with 32,000 horse power. 
 
 Many manufacturing concerns have already been estab- 
 lished and others are coming, lining the river banks with 
 mills and factories. The falls furnish power for a splendid 
 system of street railways and electric light. 
 
 Marshall Junction. — Population 100. This is the junc- 
 tion point with the Palouse branch, running south to 
 Moscow, Lewiston and Genesee, Idaho. 
 
 Cheney. — Population 1,200. This town is situated in a 
 good farming country, with abundant timber, and is on the 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 57 
 
 great plateau of the Columbia, 2,300 feet above the sea 
 level. There are several lakes in the neighborhood, three 
 possessing medicinal properties. It has a roller flour mill, 
 creameries, water works, electric light plant, State Normal 
 School and churches. The Central Washington branch 
 leaves the main line at this point, and runs north and west 
 to Medical Lake, Davenport, Almira, and Coulee City. 
 
 Sprague. — Population 1,000. Has flouring mill, water 
 works, and lumber yard. The products are wheat, oats, 
 and barley. Cattle and sheep raising is a feature of farm- 
 
 AN IDEAL WASHINGTON FARM HOME. 
 
 ing industry, while the shipments Consist of live stock, 
 wheat, wool, and flour. 
 
 Ritzville. — Population 2,000. The county seat of Adams 
 County. The place supports an electric light plant, lum- 
 ber yards, implement and agricultural stores, flouring mill, 
 and grain house. It is situated in the center of a fine farm- 
 ing and grazing country, and is the largest local wheat ship- 
 ping point in the world. 
 
 Pasco. — Population 400. Is the county seat of Franklin 
 County, is situated about two miles from the confluence 
 of the Snake and Columbia rivers, and is a junction point of 
 the main line with a line via Wallula Junction and the Col- 
 
58 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 umbia River. The heavy bunch grass found in this section 
 makes stock raising an exceedingly profitable business, as 
 the winters are mild and good grazing can be had during 
 the entire year. 
 
 Hunt's Junction. — This is the junction point of the 
 Northern Pacific and Washington & Columbia River Rail- 
 road, running to Walla Walla, Pendleton, Athena, Waits- 
 burg, and Dayton. 
 
 Wallula Junction. — Population 250. This is on the line 
 of the O. R. & N. Co. east from Portland, at its junction 
 with the Northern Pacific Railway, and is located on the 
 Walla Walla River, about one mile from the Columbia. 
 
 Kennewick. — Population 150. Kennewick has a mild 
 and delightful climate which is specially adapted to the 
 raising of fruits, vegetables, grain, hops, etc. The town 
 is the distributing point for the country twenty miles north, 
 south and west. Large shipments of wheat, horses, cattle, 
 sheep, and wool are made from here. 
 
 Kiona. — Population 50. Situated on the Yakima River, 
 this town is in a fine valley well adapted to fruit raising. 
 The Horse Heaven wheat belt is five miles south, where a 
 fine grade of wheat is raised without irrigation. 
 
 Prosser. — Population 600. In the valley surrounding 
 Prosser are thousands of acres of rich land, principally 
 adapted to grasses and fruits, which are irrigated by ditches 
 from the river. The town is located at the falls of the Yak- 
 ima River, and is the station from which to depart for the 
 Horse Heaven country. It has flour mill, wool and grain 
 warehouses, and stores. There is water power in abun- 
 dance. Large shipments are made from this point of horses, 
 cattle, sheep, wool, and flour. 
 
 Mabton. — The stage leaves here daily for the Sunnyside 
 district, distance seven miles. Fare 50 cents 
 
 Toppenish is located on the east side of the Yakima 
 River. A stage runs to Zillah, at the upper end of the 
 famous Sunnyside irrigation region. 
 
 The YAKni.\ Valley. — In eastern Washington there 
 is to be found, probably, the most conspicuous example in 
 the entire northwest of what irrigation can accomplisl 
 
 The Yakima River rises in the eastern slopes of the Cas- 
 cade Range and flows southeastwardly into the Columbia 
 River, watering, in its course, one of the best valleys in 
 the west. There is a wide range of elevation and climate 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 59 
 
60 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in the valley, and necessarily, therefore, of products. At 
 Kennewick, near the foot of the valley, the elevation is less 
 than 350 feet, at North Yakima it is about 1,000 feet, and 
 at Ellensburg, in what is locally known as the Kittitas Val- 
 ley, it is 1,500 feet. The lands found here are of the usual 
 sagebrush variety, remarkably productive when watered, 
 and irrigation has made giant strides within recent years. 
 The valley affords good pasturage to cattle, sheep and 
 horses. 
 
 Almost every imaginable variety of product, both vege- 
 table and horticultural, is or may be raised here, the ques- 
 tion as to choice depending upon the profit per acre deriv- 
 
 YAKIMA VALLEY, NEAR NORTH YAKIMA. 
 
 able. Grains, except corn, are easily raised, but are com- 
 paratively profitless, the land being so valuable, and they 
 are little in evidence. Corn is not considered a sure crop, 
 but crops of it are raised yearly that would do credit to 
 Iowa or the Tennessee Valley. 
 
 Apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, prunes, mel- 
 ons, and berries of all sorts grow to perfection. Alfalfa 
 is the greatest product of the valley. It is easily grown, is 
 cut from two to four times per season, and produces from 
 five to eight tons or more per acre. It is fed to thousands 
 of head of stock in the valley, and large amounts are baled 
 and exported. Land in the lower valley near Prosser, 
 Kiona, and Kennewick is equally as good as that in the 
 upper valley, and unimproved land, with water rights, 
 
WASHINGTON 61 
 
 can be purchased for $75 per acre and even less. The large 
 areas of unimproved land are found in the Sunnyside coun- 
 try and in the regions about Prosser, Kiona, and Kenne- 
 wick. Around Ellensburg large quantities of timothy hay 
 are raised, and dairying is advancing rapidly. 
 
 What is known as the Sunnyside country lies north, and 
 back from, the railway. At the western end the valley is 
 narrow, gradually increasing in width until it is many 
 miles wide down around the town of Sunnyside, some miles 
 north from Mabton, the railway station, in the lower valley. 
 Since the large sixty-mile-long irrigation canal, with its 
 
 HOP DRYING HOUSES, LARGEST HOP RANCH IN WASHINGTON. 
 
 tremendous system of laterals, has been built, the country 
 is fast becoming transformed into a garden. Thousands of 
 people now li\'e there, and Yakima Valley products have 
 acquired an enviable reputation in the east, and heavy 
 eastern shipments are now made of fruits, potatoes, hops, 
 etc. The land found here is of great depth, very rich and 
 productive, and so easily worked that it is child's play to 
 cultivate it. 
 
 North Yakima. — Population 5,000. This is the county 
 seat of Yakima County, situated at the confluence of the 
 Yakima and Xatches rivers. The chief products of the 
 surrounding territory are hay, hops, fruits, vegetables, 
 grain, and cattle and sheep, for all of which a ready market 
 
62 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is found. The town enjoys a very large trade; annually 
 in the fall of the year 5,000 persons are engaged in picking 
 hops in the surrounding county; the state fair is held here 
 each year; the town has a flour mill, saw mill, machine 
 shop, evaporators, and creamery. Water power is abun- 
 dant and easily developed. 
 
 Mount Adams. — The traveler on the Northern Pacific 
 can see, while traversing the Yakima Valley, a vast moun- 
 tain to the west. This is Moimt Adams, 12,250 feet high, 
 named, presumably, after President Adams. Mount Adams 
 is peculiarljr a symbol of strength and majesty, even more 
 so than Mount Rainier, or Mount Hood. The Indians call 
 it " Pah-to," a high, sloping mountain. Next to Mount 
 Rainier — Rayneer — it is the highest mountain of the Cas- 
 cades. 
 
 As with nearly all the high Cascades, there is one central, 
 predominant dome peak of unsullied whiteness. The 
 northern and eastern sides of the mountain are precipitous, 
 but the peak is easily climbed on the southern side. This 
 mountain stands out in great prominence from the vicinity 
 of North Yakima and Ellensburg and is often mistaken for 
 Mount Rainier. The top only of the latter mountain is 
 visible from Ellensburg. 
 
 Ellensburg. — Population 3,000. It is thirty-seven miles 
 north of North Yakima and one mile from the Yakima 
 River. It is the count)^ seat of Kittitas County and the 
 railroad headquarters for the Cascade division of the North- 
 ern Pacific. The town has good water power, flouring 
 mills, saw mill, planing mill, also the Washington State 
 Normal School. Good bituminous coal, in five to eight foot 
 veins, has been found. Rich veins of copper ore have also 
 been discovered. Ellensburg is situated in the Kittitas 
 Valley, five to twenty miles long, and is surrounded on 
 the south and east by bunch grass hills and table lands, 
 and on the north and west by the semi timber lands of the 
 Cascade Mountains. The products are grain, hay, stock, 
 and the shipments are live stock of all kinds, wool, and 
 bacon. 
 
 Roslyn. — Population 4,500. This town is on the branch 
 line running from Clealum Junction, distant four miles. 
 It is the center of the great Roslyn coal fields, which supply 
 nearly all the towns in eastern Washington with fuel ; and 
 the iron ore fields north of Rosyln, known as the Upper Cle- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 63 
 
64 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 alum or Fish Lake, is one of the richest in the state. The 
 city supports saw mill, planing mill, brewery, cigar factory, 
 and a fine school house. 
 
 Stampede Tunnel. — Altitude 2,840 feet. The tunnel 
 under Stampede Pass is nearly two miles long and is the 
 second tunnel in length in the United States, being ex- 
 ceeded only by the Hoosac Tunnel in Massachusetts. 
 
 Hot Springs. — Beautifully situated in the picturesque 
 valley of the Green River, on the western slope of the 
 Cascade Mountains 1,531 feet above the level of the sea, 
 on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, in King 
 County, sixty miles from the cities of Seattle and Tacoma. 
 Here are located the celebrated hot springs. Trails lead up 
 the hot springs mountain, so that the source of the springs 
 can be visited if desired. 
 
 The following towns — Buckley to Auburn — are on the old 
 line. The through trains now run via the " Palmer cut-off " 
 from Palmer Junction to Auburn : 
 
 Buckley. — Population 1,500. The Natches Pass Rail- 
 road, a logging road, runs east eight miles into the moun- 
 tains from here : also another logging road, four miles 
 long, called the Buckley Lumber Co. Railroad. The town 
 has lumber, planing and shingle mills. Hops and lumber 
 are the principal shipments. 
 
 Wilkeson. — Population 700. The place has large coke 
 ovens, coal mines, and saw mills. Coal mining is the prin- 
 cipal industry. 
 
 Carbonado. — Population 2,500. Is on the Carbon River. 
 The principal business interest is coal mining, from a mine 
 yielding 1,200 tons daily. The product and shipment is coal; 
 copper, silver, and coal mines are at Fairfax. 
 
 Crocker. — This is the junction point for the branch line 
 running to Douty, five miles distant, at which point are lo- 
 cated the Carbon Hill Coal Mines. 
 
 Orting. — Population 1,000. The Orting branch runs 
 from this point to the lumbering regions of the Muck and 
 Sucotash valleys. The city has saw and shingle mills, a 
 creamery, and the Washington Soldiers' Home, one and a 
 quarter miles south. 
 
 Meeker. — This is the junction point of the line to Seattle. 
 
 Auburn. — Population 600. Situated midway between 
 Tacoma and Seattle, in the midst of a fine agricultural and 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 65 
 
66 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 lumber district. Auburn offers exceptional advantages to 
 either the merchant or farmer. 
 
 Kent. — Population 1,300. A rich agricultural country 
 surrounds this town, which is supplied with saw, shingle, 
 and planing mill, harness shop, feed mill, condensed milk 
 factory, creamery, cheese factory, evaporating factories, 
 laundry, furnace factory, canning factory, and is in the 
 center of a fine hop growing country. 
 
 Seattle. — Population 80,671. Seattle, named after an In- 
 dian, is situated on the east side of Puget Sound, in the 
 geographical center of the " Sound Country," as it is called. 
 
 LOGGING IN WASHINGTON. 
 
 It has a magnificent harbor, perfectly protected from 
 storms, and accessible to the largest vessels at all times and 
 at all stages of tide. 
 
 Seattle is lighted principally by electricity. The power 
 for this, and the operation of the street railways, comes 
 from Snoqualmie Falls, twenty-five miles distant. This is 
 a water fall 268 feet high, capable of generating 100,000 
 horse power. The .public schools of Seattle rank among 
 the very best in the country. The enrollment of pupils 
 exceeds 12,500, there are 254 teachers employed, and the 
 expenditure exceeds $250,000 per annum. 
 
 The Puget Sound Navy Yard is just across the Sound 
 from Seattle, and its supplies are purchased here. The city 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 67 
 
 has the only dry clock on the Pacific Coast large enough to 
 dock a battleship, and here steady employment is given to 
 about 600 mechanics. 
 
 Seattle is the center of the coal mining district of Wash- 
 ington. Some of the mines are within a few miles of the 
 
 SNOQUALMIE DAM AND POWER STATION. 
 
 city, and all of them are within 100 miles. Seattle is the 
 headquarters and base of supplies of the Puget Sound, 
 Alaska, and Fraser River salmon fisheries. The foreign 
 and coastwise trade of Seattle is constantly growing and 
 extending, and is a great factor in her commercial pros- 
 5 
 
68 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 perity. Fishing is extensively carried on — both sahiion for 
 canning and fresh fish, the latter consisting of halibut, cod, 
 and salmon, for shipment east by rail as far as the Atlantic 
 seaboard cities. The local products shipped by vessel and 
 car are coal, lumber, wheat, ffour, beer, lime, spars, 
 shingles, hops, hay, oats, barley, hides, vegetables, fruits, 
 butter, cheese, wool, furs, skins, clams and oysters, fresh 
 and dried fish, cigars, boots and shoes, iron castings, ma- 
 chinery, crackers, candles, clothing, and many other articles 
 of manufacture. 
 
 Seattle is the county seat of King County, which is rich 
 in natural resources, embracing 60,000 acres of coal fields 
 within a radius of thirty-six miles; iron in abundant quan- 
 tities, and fertile and extensive valleys of wonderfully pro- 
 ductive soil, well adapted for raising hops, hay, potatoes, 
 
 OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS, FROM SEATTLE. 
 
 all vegetables, fruits and berries, and especially adapted for 
 dairying, as the climatic conditions permit of stock running 
 out all the year round and grasses to grow at all seasons. 
 The surface of the country is covered with fine forests 
 of fir, cedar, spruce, and hardwood timber, and logging and 
 lumbering are among the staple industries of western 
 Washington, and are extensively carried on in the vicinity 
 of Seattle. It is the center of the great lumber trade of the 
 state, which includes the cut annually of 1,500,000,000 feet 
 of lumber, and 5,000,000,000 shingles. The King County 
 cut includes one-seventh of that of the state. Exports from 
 Seattle include cargoes for many vessels to foreign coun- 
 tries and thousands of carloads to markets in the eastern 
 states. 
 
 Seattle has a mild and equable climate. The records of 
 the United States Weather Bureau show that the highest 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 69 
 
 temperature ever recorded was 94 degrees for one day only, 
 in 1892. The temperature seldom exceeds 85 degrees, and 
 has only gone as low as 12 degrees above zero three times 
 in ten years. The temperature always drops as low as 
 62 degrees during the night, even in the warmest weather. 
 The average rainfall for ten years has been 36.46 inches per 
 year. There is very little snowfall. The average velocity 
 of the wind is five and a half miles an hour, and the highest 
 velocity ever observed was forty-two miles. 
 . The following towns — Snohomish to Puyallup — are on 
 branch lines north of Seattle : 
 
 THIRD AVENUE, SEATTLE, WASH. 
 
 Snohomish. — Population 3,000. There is a large agricul- 
 tural district tributary to this point, which, in addition to 
 the timber traffic, makes Snohomish quite an important 
 place. The city is located thirty-eight miles north of Se- 
 attle, at the head of navigation on the Snohomish River. 
 The industries consist of six shingle mills and one logging 
 camp. 
 
 Everett. — Population 12,000. Everett is a rapidly grow- 
 ing city, located on Port Gardner, an inlet of Puget Sound. 
 The Snohomish River empties into the Sound on the north 
 through a three fork delta, all of which are navigable, 
 
70 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 particularly for vessels of light draught. This affords ex- 
 ceptional fresh and salt water harbor facilities, the fresh 
 water harbor now being extended by government dredge 
 work. The city maintains street railway, electric light, and 
 water systems, and has a large number of mercantile es- 
 tablishments of all kinds. The paper mill and smelter lo- 
 cated here are the largest of their kind on the coast. Quite 
 a number of other manufacturing industries have under 
 consideration the matter of locating here. 
 
 Arlington. — Population 1,500. A large district of choice, 
 agricultural lands is tributary to this city, which is situ- 
 
 
 
 
 
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 \ PUGET SOUND LUMBER MILL. 
 
 ated on the Stillaguamish River, sixty miles north of Se- 
 attle. Its industries consist of four shingle mills. 
 
 Woolley. — Population 1,300. Located eighty-six miles 
 north of Seattle on the Skagit River. The town's industries 
 consist of shingle and saw mills, a fruit cannery and a 
 b'"ick yard. 
 
 Issaquah. — Population 1,500. Situated forty-two miles 
 east of Seattle. The industries comprise coal mines. 
 
 Snoqualmie. — Population 300. Here is where the electri- 
 city is generated that supplies a good portion of the de- 
 mands of Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett. The place has a 
 shingle mill, saw mill, and a log camp. 
 
WASHINGTON 71 
 
 Puyallup. — Population 2,500. For the past ten years 
 more hops have been raised and marketed here than in any 
 other locahty in the world. In the fall of the year this 
 product is shipped to New York and European markets in 
 train-load lots. The city is located on the Puyallup River, 
 in the heart of the famous Puyallup Valley. It has a fine 
 water system, box factories, hop and hay press, and a hop 
 spray factory. Fruit and vegetables are the principal farm 
 products, 20,000 cases of berries being raised and marketed 
 here yearly. The soil is a rich, sandy, loam, especially 
 adapted to the raising of vegetables, etc. 
 
 Tacoma. — Population 55,000. The name of this city 
 comes from the Indian word, " Ta-ho-ma," of which there 
 
 MOONLIGHT ON PUGET SOUND. 
 
 seems to be a variety of meanings, among them being 
 " nourishing breast," and " great spirit who dwells on the 
 mountains." 
 
 Tacoma is the county seat of Pierce County, and has de- 
 veloped from a village of 720 in 1880 to its present size. 
 It is situated at the head of Commencement Bay, at the 
 extreme southeast end of Puget Sound, is built on a bluff 
 180 feet above tide water, and commands a view of the vast 
 Olympic and Cascade ranges of mountains, and Mount 
 Rainier. 
 
 Along the water front are splendid wharves and wheat ware- 
 houses with a capacity of 7,000,000 bushels. Tacoma 
 equals any city on the Pacific Coast in the number and ex- 
 
72 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tent of its manufacturing enterprises. Besides its great 
 saw mills, flour mills, and wood-working factories, which 
 send their products to Europe, South and Central America, 
 India, Australia, China and Japan, there are shingle mills 
 which send their product to Eastern markets ; the most 
 complete and best equipped packing house on the Pacific 
 Coast ; sash and door factories, foundries and machine 
 shops, planing mills, furniture, lounge, and mattress facto- 
 ries, match factory, casket factory, woolen mill, soap works. 
 
 PUYALLUP INDIAN RESER\ MIO\' 
 
 boiler works, box factory, broom factory, tile and terra cotta 
 works, brick yards, breweries, ice factories, cracker, candy 
 and starch factories, shipyards, garment and overall fac- 
 tory, preserve factory, and a large smelter with a capacity 
 of reducing 650 tons of ore per day, are among the indus- 
 tries represented in Tacoma and which are in constant 
 operation. \Vater, gas, and electric light works are also 
 in operation. 
 
 The famous Puyallup and WHiite River valleys lie tribu- 
 tary to Tacoma. These valleys produce the finest hops 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 7.3 
 
74 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in the world and yield from i,8oo to 3,000 pounds per acre. 
 The country around Tacoma is adapted to the raising of 
 fruits, hay, hops and vegetables. 
 
 The harbor at Tacoma is one of the best in the world. 
 Ample accommodations for deep sea vessels are provided, 
 and new buoys have been anchored convenient to the 
 warehouses. 
 
 The waters of Puget Sound teem with ninety-five vari- 
 eties of food fish, the capture of which gives employment 
 to 7,000 men, who market most of their catch here to be 
 shipped in refrigerator cars to eastern markets. There is 
 
 A PART OF TACOMa's WATER FRONT. 
 
 a capital of $5,000,000 invested. Sport with rod and line in 
 Commencement Bay during the great silver salmon run in 
 October and November has a charm and excitement en- 
 tirely its own. The fish are gamey and afford the excite- 
 ment an angler loves so well. The climate is unsurpassed. 
 Tacoma, owing to its geographical position and commer- 
 cial enterprise, has established itself as one of the principal 
 gateways to the northern territory of Alaska which is 
 attracting so much attention on acount of the rich gold 
 fields of the Yukon, as well as those of the Copper River 
 and Cook's Inlet districts. The Tacoma Eastern Railway 
 is steadily building up toward Mount Rainier through a 
 fine timber and farming country. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 75 
 
 Mount Rainier. — This mountain was discovered by 
 Capt. George Vancouver, of the British navy, in 1792, and 
 was named by him for his friend. Rear Admiral Rainier. 
 The Indian name for this peak is Ta-ho-ma. As between 
 the names Rainier and Tahoma, or Tacoma, the United States 
 Board on Geographic Names, a board appointed to de- 
 cide all such questions for the government, gave preference 
 to Rainier as the name to be used on the official maps. 
 
 Rainier is the highest of the Cascade peaks, being, ac- 
 cording to the latest determination — that of the United 
 States Geological Survey — 14,526 feet above sea level. 
 
 TRANS-PACIFIC STEAMER, 
 
 It is not unlike Mount Adams in general contour, but is 
 much nearer a conical shape. It is completely enameled with 
 snow and is the center of a profound system of glaciers, 
 some of them four or five miles in length. The northern 
 side is very precipitous and has never been scaled. The 
 eastern, western, and southern sides have been climbed 
 many times. The ascent is long but not specially danger- 
 ous. There are two large craters at the highest peak, 
 nearly filled with ice and snow. The loftiest point is a 
 beautiful snow and ice dome between the craters. Steam 
 constantly issues from the latter, and a system of cave-like 
 openings extend downward from the summit. Many tour- 
 ists and Pacific Coast people climb the mountain each 
 
76 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 year. Longmire's Springs, at the base of the peak on tlie 
 south side, is easily reached from Tacoma and Seattle. 
 From there a good trail ascends the Nisqually and Paradise 
 rivers to Paradise Park, on the southern slopes of the 
 mountain, where a tent hotel is usually maintained. 
 
 If one does not care to climb Rainier, no grander outing 
 can be conceived than a few days spent in Paradise Park 
 among the glaciers, ice clifTs, flowers, the park spots, and 
 the glorious mountains. Arrangements for the trip can be 
 made at either Seattle or Tacoma. Agents of the Northern 
 Pacific Railway will aid tourists in every way possible in 
 planning for this excursion. 
 
 South Tacoma. — Population 1,500. The new car shops 
 of the Northern Pacific Railwa}- are located here. 
 
 Lakeview. — Population 200. A junction point for the 
 line to Olympia and Grays Harbor country. The town has 
 rolling, planing, and feed mills. 
 
 Tenino. — Population 400. This is the junction , with the 
 Port Townsend Southern Railroad, and has saw mills 
 and large stone quarries. The surrounding country is hilly, 
 with dense forests. 
 
 Olympia. — Population 4,300. Olympia is the capital of 
 Washington and the county seat of Thurston County, and 
 is located at the head of Puget Sound. The city has water 
 works, electric and street railway plants, local and long 
 distance telephone system, United States land and sur- 
 veyor-general s offices, hotels, a national bank, daily and 
 weekly newspapers, state capitol building, opera house, 
 churches, a school and colleges, a hospital, saw mills, sash 
 and door factory, wood water pipe factor}^ and stores. The 
 products are fruit, vegetables, hay, etc., and the shipments 
 are lumber, shingles, ice, beer, wood water pipe, clams, 
 oysters, and fish. Shipments of the native oysters and 
 clams exceed any other point on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 Centralia. — Population 3,500. The branch line of the 
 Northern Pacific to Montesano on Grays Harbor connects 
 with the main line at this point, by which passengers from 
 the east go to Grays Harbor. The citj^ is one mile from 
 the Chehalis River, and has saw and shingle mills. Lum- 
 bering and farming are the principal industries, while fruit 
 and berry growing is extensvely carried on. A mountain- 
 ous, timlDered country surrounds the city. 
 
 Mount St. Helens. — Not long after Mount Rainier is 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 77 
 
 DISTANT VIEW OF ,MT. RAINIER. 
 
78 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 lost sight of another mighty mass of snow, terminating 
 in a sharp point, appears. This is Mount St. Helens, 9,750 
 feet high and called by the aborigines " Lah-me-lat-cla " — 
 fire mountain. Another Indian name is " Seuq." It is also 
 an extinct volcano and was named by Vancouver in 1792. 
 St. Helens has been an active volcano more recently, 
 perhaps, than any of the other northwestern mountains, 
 unless possibly Mount Baker. It seems to have been in 
 eruption many times between 1831-1850. Like all these 
 
 MT. ST. HELENS, FROM PORTLAND. 
 
 peaks, it is not difficult of ascent on the south side, and it 
 is an intensely interesting peak to explore. Volcanic 
 bombs and large quantities of ashes and cinders are found. 
 In the first half of last century St. Helens seems to have 
 been the most frequently mentioned mountain of the Cas- 
 cades. 
 
 Chehalis. — Population 3,500. This is the junction for 
 South Bend, on Willapa Harbor. The city is located on 
 the Chehalis River, near the mouth of Newaukum River, 
 and is the county seat of Lewis County. It aft'ords a flour- 
 ing mill, shingle mills, saw mills, furniture factory, and 
 
OREGON 79 
 
 electric lights and water works. The shipments are hops, 
 flour, stock, lumber, shingles, and fish. 
 
 Winlock. — Population 1,500. This is a diverging point 
 for the Toutle River and St. Helens gold mines, distant 
 thirty miles. The town is located on Olequa Creek, and 
 has saw mills, sash and door factory, creameries, and pot- 
 tery works. Cowlitz Prairie, containing some of the finest 
 farming land in Washington, is only five miles distant. The 
 shipments from here are lumber, hay, butter, potatoes 
 and grain. 
 
 Castle !Kock. — Population 1,800. Another diverging point 
 for the St. Helens mining district. The city has shingle 
 mills, and saw mills. Logging, farming and the raising of 
 fruits and hops are the leading industries. Coal mining is 
 also carried on near this place. 
 
 Kelso. — Population 1,000. Situated at the confluence of 
 the Cowman and Cowlitz rivers, both logging streams, 
 this is fast coming into notice as an enterprising town. 
 
 Kalama. — Population 1,250. This is the county seat of 
 Cowlitz County, and is situated on the Columbia River, 
 northwest of Portland. The town is supplied with saw 
 and shingle mills. Fishing is the principal industry, sal- 
 mon and sturgeon being caught in great quantities. This 
 place has the largest sturgeon packing concern on the 
 Pacific Coast. It has water power and electric lights, and 
 a good harbor. 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 Goble. — Population 200. Coble is the junction point 
 with the Astoria & Columbia River Railroad from Portland 
 to Astoria. 
 
 From Northern Pacific trains, near the junction of the 
 Columbia and Willamette rivers, on a clear day one will 
 see movmts Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, Hood, and Jef- 
 ferson, probably the finest sight of the sort in America. 
 Hood is really the most beautiful of these, and from the 
 town of Hood River, on the Columbia River, one may 
 easily visit the mountain. Mount Hood is 11,225 ^^^t high. 
 
 Portland. — Population 125,000. Most picturesquely situ- 
 ated on the banks of the Willamette River, Portland is a 
 beautiful and compact city. Portland homes and their sur- 
 
80 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 rounding grounds are comfortable and tasteful, and many 
 of them have cost upwards of $50,000. 
 
 The city slopes west from the river to a range of hills 
 from whose sides and summits may be had a magnificent 
 view of city, valley, river, and mountain range, with five 
 eternal snow-peaks standing out in bold relief and varying 
 
 MT. HOOD. 
 
 in height from 9,000 to 15,000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. 
 
 Portland has many miles of shade trees along the streets, 
 and most of its residents take pride in keeping up beautiful 
 grounds and gardens. The city's street car system extends 
 to Oregon City, twelve miles up the river; to St. Johns, 
 seven miles down the river, and to Vancouver, eight miles 
 away, and across the Columbia River. The total street car 
 system, both electric and steam, aggregate 112^/4 miles. 
 
OREGON 
 
 81 
 
82 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Portland is blessed with excellent transportation facilities, 
 being connected with the north, south, and east by daily 
 trains over four great railway systems, and having many 
 local trains running into the surrounding tributary regions. 
 There are daily trains to Astoria, also steamboats, many of 
 the latter plying on the river, bringing trade of all kinds to 
 the city, and covering 1,500 miles of inland transportation. 
 
 A line of ocean steamers connect Portland with San 
 Francisco, and regular steamers ply between Portland and 
 Japan, China, and Hawaii. Wheat ships load at Portland 
 wharves and carry the grain- of the Pacific Northwest to 
 the markets of the world. Portland is not only the princi- 
 pal wheat-shipping port of the Pacific Northwest, but one 
 of the great shipping ports of the United States. The pros- 
 pect of a large trade with the Pacific Islands and Asia 
 brightens Portland's outlook. The city will have its share 
 of that trade and it will be carried by lines of steamers 
 plying direct. A few things remain to be done to bring 
 Portland into touch with its field and accommodate its 
 growing commerce. One of these is a forty-foot channel 
 at the mouth of the Columbia River, and a twenty-foot 
 channel between Portland and the sea. The Columbia 
 channel has been approved by the chief of engineers, is 
 well understood by Congress, and it is a matter of a short 
 time when contracts will be awarded and the work begun. 
 
 The lumbering interests of Portland are very important. 
 The largest cargo of lumber ever loaded in the world was 
 carried from Portland on the steamer Glenlochy, and meas- 
 ured 3,077,085 feet. It went to Vladivostock, Siberia. 
 There are large areas of mining, lumbering, agricultural, 
 wool-producing and stock-raising country tributary to 
 Portland, and their trade is steadily increasing. 
 
 The distance from Portland to the sea is no miles. The 
 Willamette River flows into the Columbia twelve miles 
 below Portland, and the largest ships come to the city's 
 wharves. The falls of the Willamette River, at Oregon 
 City, twelve miles south of Portland, have an energy of 
 145,000 horse power and transmit by wire to Portland elec- 
 trical power to run the street cars, light the city, and fur- 
 nish force for manufacturing purposes. 
 
The Great Northwest. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The Pacific Northwest, or the Northwest of to-day, em- 
 braces that portion of the United States, British Columbia 
 and Alaska lying west of the barrier of the Rocky Mountains 
 and bordering- on the Pacific Ocean north of the 42d parallel 
 of latitude, or the dividing line between California and 
 Oregon, Nevada and Idaho. It therefore includes the west- 
 ern portion of Montana, the states of Idaho, Washington and 
 Oregon, the western part of British Columbia, and, we may 
 say, commercial Alaska. 
 
 It will be, however, the purpose of this book to treat the 
 entire state of IMontana as an integral part, with short mat- 
 ter on those states which were once a part of the Northwest 
 when emigrants from Ohio and Indiana to Illinois looked 
 upon Wisconsin and Minnesota, to say nothing of the Dako- 
 tas, as a part of the inaccessible and great unknown. 
 
 There is little use in giving figures to show the extent of 
 this vast territory, when the Okanogan plains and upper 
 Columbia River and Snake River basins alone, or, more 
 properly speaking, that portion of the Northwest Iving in 
 the United States between the Cascade and Rocky Mountain 
 ranges, equals the area of all the New England States, with 
 New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Maryland added. 
 The term "Inland Empire," as applied to this region, is not 
 a misnomer. 
 
 It is said the Great Northwest, of all the inhabitable re- 
 gions of the globe, is the most productive and the least set- 
 tled. It is not fitting here to enumerate what, as a whole, 
 it possesses, but leave that to be treated with the different 
 sections, for it would perhaps be more appropriate to in- 
 quire what it does not possess in abundance necessary to the 
 founding of a nation of the first class, commercially and 
 otherwise. 
 
GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 EARLY HISTORY. 
 
 The country between the Mississippi River and the 
 Rocky Mountains, and the country known as the 
 Oregon Territory, lying between the Rocky Mountains 
 and the sea, designated as a "wikl and magnificent region, 
 unvisited before by white men, with its barbarous tribes, 
 their character and habits, and abounding in herds 
 of buffalo, deer and antelope, outnumbering the human 
 tenants of the land," has an interesting marine as well 
 as land histor}'. The western shores of North America 
 were visited at an early day by Spanish navigators soon 
 after the discovery of the new continent had become an estab- 
 lished fact. Magellan passed through the straits which bear 
 his name; Balboa crossed the Isthmus of Darien in 1513; 
 Pizarro concjuered Peru and other parts of South American 
 territory, while Cortez took possession of Mexico. From 
 the latter country many expeditions, with varying success, 
 were fitted out and sent to north Pacific waters for the com- 
 bined purpose of tracing the coast line, finding a way to 
 India, discovering a navigable passage between the Atlantic 
 and Pacific oceans, and last, but not least, of repeating the 
 rapacious plunderings of Pizarro and Cortez. 
 
 Ulloa, in 1539, followed the coast of Lower California to 
 the 30° of latitude; in 1542 Cabrillo and Ferelo, after dis- 
 covering San Diego Bay, advanced as far north as the 44° 
 on the Oregon coast. In 1579 Sir Francis Drake 
 landed on the shores of California at what is now supposed 
 to be San Francisco Bay, but it is still a disputed question 
 whether he ever went farther north. In 1592 Juan de Fuca, 
 while in the employ of the Spanish Viceroy of Mexico, en- 
 tered the strait noAV bearing his name, which leads to the 
 Gulf of Georgia and Puget Sound. In 1602 Sebastien Vis- 
 caino, after attempting to establish colonies in California, 
 sailed as far north as Cape Blanco. In 1616 two Dutch naviga- 
 tors sailed around Cape Horn, and early in the following cen- 
 tury the Spanish Jesuits located missions in California. Not 
 until 1774 was any exploration of the coast of the Northwest 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
4 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 made, when another Mexican expedition, u^.der Juan Perez, 
 sailed north as far as the 54°, near the mouth of the 
 Skeena River, and not far below the present boundary of 
 Alaska. Again, in 1775, a Mexican expedition under Heceta 
 and Quadra proceeded as far north as the Strait of Juan de 
 Fuca, named Cape San Roque and charted an opening, 
 which afterward proved to be the mouth of the Columbia 
 River. Again sailing north a part of the expedition reached 
 the 58°, a point north of the present site of Sitka. 
 
 It is supposed that the Chinese and the Japanese, in their 
 junks, had discovered the north Pacific coast of America 
 long before white men saw it, and there is little doubt that 
 the Indians who. inhabit this coast are Mongoloids, having 
 emigrated across Bering Strait from Asia. There is much 
 evidence in the way of old junk, old coins, racial likeness, 
 etc., to warrant the belief that communication had been es- 
 tablished. 
 
 In 1778 Capt. James Cook, an English navigator, made 
 various landings from the Oregon coast northward, finally 
 passing through Bering Strait, where he traced the Arctic 
 coast both east and west along the American and Asiatic 
 shores. He named Cape Foulweather, also Cape Flattery, at 
 the southern point of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. He discov- 
 ered and named Prince William Sound and Cook's Inlet and 
 visited Unalaska, along the Alaskan coast. His vessels spent 
 two years in north Pacific waters, prosecuting the fur trade, 
 finally disposing of their cargoes at Canton. The publishing 
 of the journals of this expedition in England was the first 
 spur to international trading in furs. In consequence many 
 companies were formed, eventually causing great rivalry. 
 
 James Hanna came to Nootka, on Vancouver Island, 
 from England in 1785, and again in 1786, and established 
 trade with the natives. Then came Portlock and Dixon and 
 traders from Bombav, Calcutta, and other foreign ports, 
 when a general knowledge of the country was obtained. 
 
 The French, in 1790, sent out the Peyronne, which touched 
 the coast at manv places between Monterey, Cal., and the 
 Alaska coast ofif Mount St. Elias. The Spanish government 
 was again stimulated to action, and thus the one great in- 
 centive, the barter of junk, knives and gewgaws for furs, 
 was fairly launched. 
 
 The first voyages from the United States were those of the 
 ship Columbia and sloop Washington, Robert Gray and John 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 Kendrick, commanders. They reached Nootka Soimd, on 
 Vancouver Island, via Cape Horn, in 1788, and returned via 
 Cape Good Hope in 1790. The attempts of Capt. John 
 Meares, a Portuguese, to discover the opening of the Co- 
 hmibia, as laid down by the Mexican, Heceta, resulted in 
 failure on account of stormy weather, and he then renamed 
 Cape San Roque Cape Disappointment, and the mouth of 
 the now famous river Deception Bay, so it was left finally 
 to Captain Gray, of Boston, in the Columbia, the flagship 
 of a squadron of seven vessels, to complete the discovery in 
 1 79 1 and give the river its name. During the same year 
 
 RELICS OF FORMER DAYS. 
 
 Capt. Vancouver, an Englishman, took over Nootka Sound, 
 on the island bearing his name, to the British government, 
 and made important explorations in the Strait of Juan de 
 Fuca and the Puget Sound region. He named the large 
 island on which Victoria is situated for himself, Mount 
 Baker and Puget Sound for his lieutenants, and Mount 
 Rainier for his friend, a British admiral ; he also named 
 many ports and islands, and, not to forget his sovereign, 
 the body of water which receives the Fraser River — the Gulf 
 of Georgia. 
 
 The Russians, through '^^itus Bering, a Dane, in 1778 dis- 
 covered the strait of that name and touched the shores of 
 America, having built a vessel at the mouth of the Kam- 
 
6 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 chatka River, the rigging, cables, etc., having been dragged 
 2,000 miles on sleds overland. Later they extended their 
 trade to the Aleutian Islands, and in 1803 established a de- 
 pot and seat of government at Sitka. Although the Russians 
 made one or two voyages further south, their share in the 
 work of discovery was confined almost wholly to Alaska. 
 
 In 1766 the adventurous spirit of John Carver, of Con- 
 necticut, incited him to visit the Northwest, which he did, 
 going by way of Albany, N. Y., and the lakes, and then 
 overland gs far west as the Mississippi River. He first 
 learned from the Indian tribes that the four great rivers of 
 the continent were "the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the 
 River Bourbon (Red River of the North), and the Oregon, 
 or the River of the West (the Columbia)." His plan was 
 to follow the same route afterwards traveled by Lewis and 
 Clark, namely, the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains, 
 thence crossing over to the Columbia waters and passing 
 down to the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The trade in furs caused the organization of several fur 
 companies in Great Britain and America from time to time, 
 among them being the Hudson's Bay Company, of which Sir 
 Alexander McKenzie was a member. In 1789 McKenzie 
 made his way by Slave Lake and the McKenzie River to the 
 Arctic Ocean, and in 1792 he ascended the rapid Peace River 
 to the Rocky Mountains, crossed over to the Fraser River, 
 and could easily have reached the Pacific Ocean, but was dis- 
 suaded from doing so by the Indians, who told him that this 
 river held its course a long way to the south. This caused 
 him to believe that it was the Oregon (Columbia). He then 
 ascended the Fraser River, turned west to the Salmon River, 
 and reached the Pacific Ocean in British Columbia, near the 
 52° of latitude. McKenzie advised his government of his 
 belief in this matter, and as this was the first trip overland 
 to the Pacific, it became the initial factor in the long and bit- 
 ter territorial dispute, resulting in the treaty of 1845, finally 
 making the 49th parallel the boundary line, as it, as near as 
 possible, splits the waters of these two great rivers. 
 
 Lewis and Clark Expedition. — In 1803 President Jef- 
 ferson sent a confidential message to Congress, proposing 
 that a partv be despatched to the Northwest to trace the 
 Missouri River to its source, cross the Rocky Mountains, 
 and proceed to the Pacific Ocean. This was approved and 
 $2,500 was appropriated. Capt. Merriweather Lewis was. 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 upon his own application, made leader of the expedition, and 
 Capt. James Clark was afterwards associated with him. 
 During this 3'ear was completed the Louisiana purchase, 
 which gave to the United States all the territory in the 
 Northwest east of the main divide of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 This now famous expedition 
 left St. Louis in May, 1804, 
 and proceeded up the Rlissouri 
 River by boats, making easy 
 stages, stopping to confer with 
 the Indians and make notes of 
 the adjacent country. Xovem- 
 ber found the party 1,600 miles 
 up the river and by the 20th 
 of that month they had built 
 huts in the timber on the river 
 bank, which they called Fort 
 Mandan. Their location was 
 not far from the present site 
 of Mandan, N. D. The winter 
 was spent in receiving the 
 heads of the different tribes, jefferson, 
 
 entertaining them, holding councils, giving and receiving 
 presents, always advising peace between the tribes, which 
 was very difficult to maintain. Game being plentiful, some 
 hunting was done to maintain the food supply, which, with 
 the corn received from the Indians, sufficed to carry them 
 through the winter. 
 
 The barge which had previously carried the stores was 
 sent down the river, accompanied by several Indians, while 
 the party, which now consisted of thirty-two persons, on 
 April 7, 1805, forged ahead on the long and unknown journey. 
 Chaboneau, one of the interpreters, was accompanied by his 
 wife, Sac-a-ja-we-a, with her babe. She was a member of 
 the Shoshone band of Snake Indians whose country the ex- 
 pedition expected to pass through, and it was thought she 
 might be of considerable assistance, as she was eventually. 
 She was the only woman of the party and made the entire trip 
 to the Pacific Ocean and return, serving alternately as inter- 
 preter and helper. On April 26 camp was made at the junction 
 of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers, which is now very 
 nearlv on the boundary line between the states of North 
 Dakota and Montana. The journal says, according to Indian 
 
GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 information, the \ellowstone " runs first through a moun- 
 tainous country, but which in many parts is fertile and well 
 timbered; it then waters a rich and delig;htful land, broken 
 into valleys and meadows, and well supplied with wood and 
 water, till it reaches near the Missouri." Such is the early 
 
 description of the valley of 
 that clear running stream, 
 heading in the National 
 Park of the same name, 
 born of never-f ailing 
 snows, tumbling from dizzy 
 heights to the wonderful 
 canyon below, at last 
 emerging from its moun- 
 tain barriers and affording 
 a transcontinental railroad 
 pathway with si'-es for nu- 
 merous prosperous cities. 
 
 Speaking of die country 
 along the Missouri ni^/er, 
 the journal says, "then a 
 beautiful low plain com- 
 mences and, widening as 
 NAPOLEON. the rivers recede extends 
 
 along west between them." 
 Other plains are spoken of, with high ground and timber, 
 also the advantages of a trading post, which no doubt brought 
 about the establishment of Fort Buford, now a thriving city 
 on the Great Northern. At this point in the journal it is men- 
 tioned that "the game was in such plenty that we killed only 
 what was necessary for our subsistence. . . We are sur- 
 
 rounded with deer, elk, buffalo, antelope and their companions, 
 the wolves. . . Two savage white bears, the terror of 
 
 the Indians, were killed." Porcupine River, near the present 
 station of Kintyre, was named. The game was so plentiful 
 and extremely gentle that "the male buffalo will scarcely give 
 way to us, and as wc approach will merely look at us for a 
 moment as something new and then quietly resume their feed- 
 ing." And to think that less than a century leaves but a few 
 of these noble animals, in pens and exhibition places, to be 
 looked upon as a relic of the past — a shameless destruction of 
 one of the wisest provisions of nature ! 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 On May 5 the expedition reached the mouth of Milk River 
 (now a railway station of the same name) along the valley 
 of which the railroad continues its way towards the west. The 
 journal gives a good idea of the river, which rises in the Rocky 
 Mountains in Northwestern Mon- 
 tana, runs into the Northwest Ter- 
 ritories, later returns to the land of 
 its birth and for 200 miles creates 
 the great stock regions along the 
 international line. Still following 
 the Missouri, which now comes 
 from the southwest, the 
 journal says "the country 
 like that of yesterday is 
 beautiful in the extreme." 
 Again, "the country con- 
 tinues level, rich and beau- 
 tiful," again the elk and 
 deer become "so gentle that 
 the men are obliged to drive 
 them out of the way with 
 sticks and stones." 
 
 On May 20 they reached 
 the mouth of the Musselshell River. In speaking of the 
 country again the journal says, "a waving valley, extending 
 for a great distance to the northward with a fertile soil which, 
 though without wood, produces a fine turf of low grass." 
 Here the Missouri conies from the west, which course the 
 party mainly took for the next 200 miles, skirting the north 
 side of Fergus County, Mont. 
 
 On May 26 Captain Lewis ascended some hills and for the 
 first time obtained a view of the Rocky Mountains, "The ob- 
 ject of all our hopes and reward of all our ambition." He 
 probably saw what are now known as the Big Snowy Range 
 and the Belt Mountains, south and east of Lewiston. At 
 the mouth of the Marias, near Fort Benton, so long the 
 head of navigation of the Missouri in early days, some time 
 was consumed in determining the true Missouri. With much 
 doubt, after cacheing a boat and a part of the stores, they 
 proceeded. In referring to the Falls of the Missouri', now 
 the site of a city, with a great smelter and other manu- 
 factories, known as Great Falls, Captain Lewis says that on 
 
 >/- 
 
 CAIT, MbKKlWIiA'l HER LhWIS. 
 
10 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the 13th they came to a beautiful plain where the buffalo 
 were in greater numbers than they had ever seen before, 
 and finding that the river bore considerably to the south and 
 fearful of passing the falls, being on foot, he changed his 
 
 course to the south. Spray in the 
 air, and the increasing noise di- 
 rected him, and after traveling 
 seven miles the scene burst upon 
 his vision. Down the hills he hur- 
 ried with impatience and seating 
 himself on some rocks under the 
 center of the falls, enjoyed the 
 spectacle "which since the Creation 
 had been lavishing its 
 
 magnificence upon the 
 desert unknown to civili- 
 zation." Until July 15, 
 a period of thirty-two 
 days, they occupied them- 
 selves in exploring, cache- 
 ing stores for future 
 needs, portaging the falls, 
 and building newer and 
 cAi'T, JAMES CLARK. llghtcr boats for more 
 
 rapid travel. 
 From here on the river was tortuous, the canyon walls so 
 abrupt at times as to afford no trail on the banks. At the 
 three forks of the river, in what is now Gallatin County, it 
 was decided to take the southeasterly fork, which thev named 
 Jeft'erson River, after President Jefferson, the projector of 
 the enterprise. On this river the Indian woman, Sac-a-ja- 
 we-a, said she had been captured from her people, the Snake 
 Indians, when a child. After much exploring, several acci- 
 dents and considerable fatigue, the party reached the source 
 of this river, the journal referring to it as "the remotest wa- 
 ter of the Missouri," "which had never before been seen by 
 civilized man . and as we sat clown by the brink of 
 
 that little rivulet which yielded its distant and modest tribute 
 to the parent ocean, we felt ourselves rewarded for all our 
 labors and all our difficulties." 
 
 They stood at the top of the great divide of the Rocky 
 Mountains, now in Beaver Head County, Mont., knowing 
 nothing of the great geyser basin of the Yellowstone Park, in 
 
K 
 
 EARLY HISTORY 
 
 11 
 
 UMATILLA SQUAW, PE-TOW'-VA. 
 
 She saw Lewis and Clark in 1805. Died in 1902, aged 112 years. 
 Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore. 
 
12 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Wyoming', which was feeding the middle fork, named by 
 them Madison River. They "followed a descent much steeper 
 than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three 
 quarters of a mile reached a handsoine, bold creek of cold, 
 clear water, running to the westward, and stopped to taste, 
 for the first time, tlie waters of the Columbia." They were 
 in what is now Lemhi County, Idaho, and were descending 
 to the Lemhi River, a branch of the Salmon, which is a branch 
 of the Snake, that river being a direct and important member 
 of the Columbia. At a camp of the Shoshone Indians Cap- 
 tain Lewis, who had preceded the main party, was given a 
 piece of roasted salmon, which satisfied him that he was then 
 on Pacific waters. He returned with the Indians and horses 
 to assist in taking the luggage across the divide. ' Sac-a-je- 
 we-a at once recognized the chief as her brother, and "met 
 him with demonstrations of great joy." 
 
 Finding it impracticable 
 to descend the Salmon 
 River by boats, and 
 impossible to cross 
 the country by land 
 owing to deep riv- 
 ers canyons and 
 Uiciuntauis, t h e 
 part\ rccrossed 
 
 the R o c k }• 
 Mountai n s to 
 the coast and 
 northeast into the 
 southern end of 
 the Bitter Root 
 Valley, passed 
 
 OLD LEWIS AND CL.^R^ 
 
 TRAIL AT LOLO NATIONAL SPRINGS. 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 13 
 
 down the valley to "Travelers' Rest" at the mouth of Lolo 
 Creek, then up that creek to the summit and over the Bitter 
 Root Mountains again to the head of the Koos-koos-kee, or 
 Clearwater River in Idaho, and thence down to the Snake 
 River, where the Nez Perces Indians gave them the first 
 description of the Falls of the Columbia. The journal reads, 
 September 22 : "As we approached the village most of the 
 women fled with their children to the neighboring woods. 
 . . The plains were now covered with Indians, who had 
 
 CAPTAIN CLARK AND HIS MEN SHOOTING BEARS. 
 
 From an old print. 
 
 come to see the whites and the strange things they had 
 brought with them. Chief Twisted Hair drew a chart 
 
 of the river on a white elk skin, according to which the Koos- 
 koos-kee (Clearwater) forks was a few miles from this place; 
 two days' journey to the south was another and larger fork. 
 . . Five days' journey lower down was a large river from 
 the northwest, and from the mouth of this river (the con- 
 fluence of the Snake and the Columbia), to the falls was a 
 five days' journey." At last the problem, after many diffi- 
 culties and privations, had been solved by the friendly Nez 
 Perces, or "pierced nose" tribe, in the valley of the Clear- 
 water River. This tribe in later years made a gallant fight 
 against the advancement of the white people whom Lewis 
 
14 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 and Clark represented, under the greatest of all Indian gen- 
 erals, Chief Joseph. 
 
 The horses procured of the Shoshones were left for use 
 on the return tri]), canoes were made from the pine timber 
 in the valley, and on October 7 the journey was resumed 
 b}' water, passing the present sites of the prosperous towns 
 of Lewiston, in Idaho, and Clarkston, in Washington, where 
 the Clearwater and the Snake rivers join, the latter now 
 being spanned by a modern steel bridge. The trip to tide- 
 water was made, accompanied by hordes of Indians, all curi- 
 ous to see the white men. Fort Clatsop, near the present 
 site of Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River, was 
 built, and the winter spent by the party on rather short ra- 
 tions. 
 
 Certificates of kindness, etc. were distributed to the Indian 
 chiefs, and the following notice was .posted in the fort and 
 given to the natives : 
 
 "The object of this is, that through the medium of some civilized 
 person who may see the same, it may be made known to the world 
 that the party, consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto 
 annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the United 
 States to explore the interior of the continent of North America, 
 did cross the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to 
 the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived 
 on the 14th day of No\ember, 1805, and departed the 23rd day of 
 March, 1S06, on their return to the United States by the same route 
 by which they came out." 
 
 This was a strong factor in our claim made at the set- 
 tlement of the boundary dispute between England and the 
 United States, later inaking it possible for this vast north- 
 west country which we are now treating, to be exploited and 
 settled b}' the American people. 
 
 Working their way gradually up the Columbia, giving med- 
 ical aid and council to the Walla Walla Indians and neigh- 
 boring tribes, they again procured horses and, passing up 
 the Clearwater, reached the western base of the Bitter Root 
 Mountains. Here the party divided. The journal says: "We 
 now formed the following plan of operations : Captain 
 Lewis, with nine men, was to pursue the most direct route to 
 the Falls of the Missouri, where three of his party were to 
 be left, to prepare carriage for transporting the baggage 
 and canoes across the portage. With the retnaining six he 
 was to ascend Maria's (now IMarias) River, explore the coun- 
 trv and ascertain whether any branch of this river reached 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 15 
 
16 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 as far north as latitude 50", after which he would descend 
 that river to its mouth. The rest of the party were to ac- 
 company Captain Clark to the head of the Jefferson River, 
 which Sergeant Ordway and nine men would descend with 
 canoes and other articles deposited there. Captain Clark's 
 party, which would then be reduced to ten, would proceed to 
 the Yellowstone at its nearest approach to the Three Forks 
 oi the Missouri, where Clark would build canoes, descend 
 that river with seven of his party and wait at its mouth till 
 the rest should join him. Sergeant Pryor, with the two oth- 
 ers, would take the horses by land and go to the British posts 
 on the Assinniboine with a letter to Mr. Henry to induce him 
 to endeavor to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accom- 
 pany him to Washington." 
 
 Being now near the junction of the upper forks of the 
 middle forks of the Clearwater, in Idaho, the party separated, 
 and Captain Clark and party passed, as tlie Indians termed 
 it "up the river of the road to the buffaloes." It was a well- 
 beaten trail and used by the western Indians as a thorough- 
 fare between the Columbia plains, where salmon was the 
 main diet, and the Missouri plains, where the buffaloes were 
 innumerable and formed the chief sustenance. Pilgrimages 
 were made to the east by the Indians, but it seems few were 
 made to the west. 
 
 The plans were carried out, the Lewis party explored the 
 Blackfeet country, participating in a skirmish with that tribe, 
 one Indian being killed, joined the canoes at the mouth of 
 the Marias River, and passed down the Missouri. Captain 
 Clark proceeded to the Three Forks of the Missouri, thence 
 up the Gallatin and over to the Yellowstone, the route now 
 traversed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, probably reach- 
 ing that river at Livingston, Park Count_y. 
 
 Here boats were built and "through a beautiful landscape, 
 where buffaloes kept up a continued bellowing. . where 
 
 large herds of elk were lying on every point so gentle that they 
 might be approached within twenty paces," they floated down 
 this charming river to its mouth, the only alarm being lest 
 the buffalo "hovering about at night should tread on the 
 boats and split them to pieces." This was in the month of 
 July. What a scene to contemplate ! Is it any wonder that 
 Cooper and his contemporaries wrote such fascinating tales 
 of the prairie? Is it any wonder that the youth of the land 
 was fired with a desire for adventure? To-dav, instead of 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 17 
 
 buffalo, elk and big horn sheep, Montana's plains are covered 
 with myriads of domestic cattle and sheep, and the city of 
 Billings, situated on the banks of the Yellowstone, in 1902 
 became the largest wool market in the United States, while 
 Great Falls and Fort Benton were a close second. The great 
 cattle companies "roundup" and ship to market thousands of 
 head of cattle, fed on the self-same "buffalo grass" that nour- 
 ished the original occupants. 
 
 In boats, made of buffalo hides, the men who had been with 
 the horses floated down the river, and all sections joined at 
 the Missouri. At the Mandan settlement Chaboneau, the 
 
 * MANDAN VILLAGE AND " BULL ' BOATS. 
 
 French Canadian, and his wife Sac-a-ja-we-a and child, left 
 the party, though offered the opportunity of going to the 
 States. The journal says : "The man had been very ser- 
 viceable to us, and his wife was particularly useful among 
 the Shoshones ; indeed she had borne with a patience truly 
 admirable the fatigue of so long a route, encumbered with 
 the charge of an infant." The question of erecting a mon- 
 ument to her memory at the Three Forks of the Missouri, in 
 Montana, has been seriously agitated. Taking a Ricara chief 
 and his family with them, they descended the river as rap- 
 idly as the conditions would permit, reaching the Mississippi 
 and St. Louis on September 23, 1806, after two and a half 
 
 * From " Travels to the Interior of Xortli America in 1832-3-4." By Max Wied, 
 1843- 
 
18 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 years' absence, in good health, with the loss of but one man, 
 and a single skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians. The length 
 of the route, gomg out by way of the Missouri to its head- 
 waters, was 3,096 miles, and from the divide to the Colum- 
 bia and down to the Pacific Ocean, 1,038 miles; on the return 
 3,545 miles were traveled, via Lolo Pass, making a total trip 
 of 7,679 miles, through an unexplored country. Thus in 1806 
 President Jefferson's far-seeing eve had accomplished more 
 than an invading army could have done, in practical results, 
 in the great struggle for the fur trade and territory in the 
 Great Northwest, and it is a source of pride that the empire 
 which has developed is, in the spirit of his declaration of pur- 
 pose, "a commercial empire beyond the Rocky Mountains, 
 peopled by free and independent Americans, linked with us 
 hy ties of blood and interest, and enjoying, like us, the rights 
 of self government." 
 
 To show the English point of view, a quotation is made 
 from the British Columbia Year Book : 
 
 "President Jefferson, with a prescience beyond the public men of 
 his day, saw in the great country west of the Mississippi, the des- 
 tiny of which was inore or less associated with the indefinite Hmits 
 of the Louisiana Territory, great possibilities, and he took a step 
 which he hoped would further the chances of the Republic. Jeffer- 
 son took a step which, though creditable to his enterprise, could not 
 be said to reflect credit on his methods." 
 
 The last sentence refers to giving out the object of the 
 expedition as one in the interest of science and obtaining pass- 
 ports from the English government. 
 
 An ample field was now open for new enterprises, and 
 various fur trading coinpanies were formed. Mr. John Jacob 
 Astor, of New York, had become wealthy in the eastern fur 
 trade, and in 1809 organized the American Eur Company, 
 the Northwestern Company, and the Southwestern Company. 
 The Missouri Eur Company was founded at St. Louis, and 
 established posts on the upper Missouri and west of the Rocky 
 Mountains on the Lewis River. The Indians at the mouth 
 of the Coluinbia River, Lewis and Clark found, knew only a 
 Mr. Haley as a trader, and the bay at Astoria was called 
 Haley's Bay. 
 
 In 1810 Mr. Astor organized the Pacific Eur Company, to 
 deal in furs and to establish posts on the Columbia River 
 and its branches, the head waters of the Missouri, and a 
 strong supply depot and fort was erected at the mouth of the 
 
EARLY HISTORY 
 
 19 
 
 Columbia. The first ship, the Tonquin, landed the partners 
 (mostly Canadians) and men, April 12, 1811, at the mouth 
 of the Columbia, and they founded Astoria. This ship, while 
 on a trading expedition at Vancouver's Island, was later 
 blown up. The Northwest Fur Company, from Montreal, 
 then attempted to take possession of the country, but found 
 they were too late. The war of 1812 demoralized every- 
 thing, and the Astor forces gave up the posts on the Okan- 
 ogan and Spokane and repaired to Astoria, The Astor goods 
 were sold out to the Northwest Company at a sacrifice, a 
 British sloop of war came to anchor in the harbor and took 
 
 FORT MANDAN. 
 
 possession of the Astor fort and the country, hoisted the Brit- 
 ish colors and changed the name to Fort George. Peace was 
 declared in 181 5, but Astoria was not restored to the United 
 States rmtil 1818. The government failing to sanction Mr. 
 Astor's project, trade declined until after the settlement of 
 the boundary question in 1846; then there was neither post 
 nor trading post under the control of the United States 
 throughout the Columbia region. The Fludson's Bay 
 Company reigned supreme from the ocean to the Rocky 
 Mountains. Nathaniel Wyeth headed two expeditions to the 
 Pacific Coast and established posts in the Oregon territory, 
 but failed to hold the positions against this powerful com- 
 
20 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 pany. Astoria stands to-day, however, the oldest American 
 city on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 In 1818, to settle the boundary line, it was proposed at the 
 treaty of Ghent, that a line be drawn from the Lake of the 
 Woods to the 49th parallel of latitude, and from the inter- 
 section westward to the Pacific. It was, however, agreed 
 upon in this treaty only to the Rocky Mountains. The ne- 
 gotiations were resumed in 1824, the 49th parallel being 
 again proposed by the United States, but the English wanted 
 the line to run down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean, 
 which was not accepted. In 1826 it again became a subject 
 of discussion, also again in 1827, when it was agreed that 
 the territory should be jointly occupied. The old slogan of 
 "54° 40' or fight" kept the fires alive until the matter was 
 settled permanently in 1846. To-day iron posts and a felled 
 strip of timber mark the international boundary from Blaine 
 eastward. The Astor post, the discovery of the Columbia by 
 Captain Gray, the Lewis and Clark expedition, aided by the 
 missionary Whitman at Walla Walla, made the basis of our 
 claim, but the Lewis and Clark expedition was the ruling evi- 
 dence. 
 
 The earliest emigration from the United States for the 
 purpose of settlement in what was known as the Oregon Ter- 
 ritory, that which was drained by the Oregon or Columbia 
 River, was made in 1832 in western Oregon. 
 
 The history of the Hudson's Bay Company is a very import- 
 ant chapter in the history of the entire Northwest. The dip- 
 lomatic history between Russia and England, while settling 
 the Alaskan boundary, at that time between England and 
 the United States with reference to the boundarv between 
 Canada and the United States, and the founding of the Louis- 
 iana territory and its sale to the L^nited States are interest- 
 ing and important. 
 
 There were three factors in the Northwest coast history. 
 First, the Spanish desire for conquest and plunder, which 
 later events showed availed but little : second, the search 
 for the Northwest Passage, or the fabled straits of Anian ; 
 third, the fur trading period, inaugurated by the Russians, 
 bv sea, and in the interior by the French trappers as early as 
 1842, all culminating in the settlement of this vast territory 
 and the building of trans-continental railways. 
 
 Topography and Climate. — The prominent physical fea- 
 ture of the central part of the United States is the great 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 21 
 
 ^..u^n. iM..!,!-., i,wi->-'i^iBrA RIVER. 
 
 Cup\-nght, by Benj. A. Gifford, 'ihe Dalles, Ore. 
 
22 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 basin between the Appalachian Alountains of the Atlantic sec- 
 tion and the Rocky Mountains of the Pacific section, of which 
 the Mississippi \'alley is the extreme depression, or trough. 
 The region between the Mississippi River and the Rocky 
 Mountains is known to geographers as the Great Plains, being 
 almost an entire prairie country and comparatively level. The 
 rise is very gradual over a direct line of more than a thou- 
 sand miles to the westward, and there are many places in 
 Minnesota and North and South Dakota where a furrow may 
 be turned for distances of from ten to twenty miles without 
 a break. 
 
 A broad upland in North Dakota, which extends into Can- 
 ada, is known as the Coteau of the Missouri. From this 
 point westward, through Montana to the Rocky IMountains, 
 the plains are comparatively level, interrupted only by oc- 
 casional non-continuous ranges of mountains, such as the 
 Little Rocky and the Bear's Paw mountains, in the northern 
 part of that state ; and the Highwood Belt, Snowy and Crazy 
 moimtains, in the central part, lying between the Missouri 
 and Yellowstone rivers. These mountains are covered with 
 timber in contrast to the surrounding prairie countr\-. 
 
 The country between Chicago, 111., and Helena, Mont., 
 should be divided agriculturally into three sections : first, the 
 land of extensive cornfields, this being the country adjacent to 
 the Mississippi River, with a very slight altitude above the level 
 of the sea; next the wheat fields of Minnesota and the Da- 
 kotas, at an average elevation of from 1,000 to 1,500 feet, 
 with shorter summer seasons and bracing winters, and lastlv, 
 the extensive stock ranges of Montana, with a winter cli- 
 mate, including a colder and drjer atmosphere. These plains 
 are abruptly terminated on the west by the eastern, or Main 
 Divide of the Rocky Mountains, which rises from a base of 
 4,000 feet elevation to peaks of 10,00 to 14,000 feet in dif- 
 ferent parts of the range. Other ranges follow farther west, 
 each having a local name, such as the Bitter Root and Coeur 
 d'AIene mountains, which forni a very pronounced boundary 
 between the states of Idaho and Montana. Between these 
 ranges and the Main Divide lies a long, fertile, temperate 
 and romantic valley, and many smaller valleys lie between the 
 various spurs of the ranges, afifording homes to many people. 
 
 The Rocky Mountains are the great western barriers to 
 the central North American weather currents, therefore the 
 climatic eft'ects east of these mountains are based upon en- 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 23 
 
24 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tirely different causes from those on the western side. All 
 eastern Montana lies upon the Missouri Plateau, which is a 
 part of the same plains that are drained by the Saskatchewan 
 River of Canada, so that the currents of air coming down 
 from the north are carried over it and all the region between 
 it and the great lakes, where they are tempered by southern 
 influences. Medicine Hat, in Canada, usually records and no- 
 tifies us first of the coming cold wave. Then follows Fort 
 Assinniboine, at the foot of Bear's Paw Mountain, which 
 bears the name of being the coldest place in the United States. 
 Extremely cold weather is of short duration, but the general 
 temperature in winter is very much lower than that of the 
 territory lying west of the Rocky Mountains, or even of the 
 valleys between the Bitter Root Mountains and the Main 
 Divide. At times the mercury chills in the thermometer on 
 the high plains, and frequently drops to 20° below zero, but 
 the redeeming feature is that the air is so dry that zero 
 weather in Montana seems like thirty-two degrees above to 
 one accustomed to a humid atmosphere. 
 
 The great range of mountains, which, under a multiplicity 
 of names, stretches from Patagonia to Alaska and is really 
 the backbone of the continent, is full of interest in all its 
 ramifications. In Colorado the ranges cover the larger por- 
 tion of the state ; in northwestern Wyoming they spread out 
 again, forming a high basin known as the Yellowstone Park, 
 and there change their trend from nearly north and south 
 to a northwesterly direction. The Park is about sixty miles 
 square — a great basin having an elevation of from 6,000 to 
 12,000 feet, and is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad peaks. It 
 is a vast volcanic region, replete with natural wonders in 
 the way of numerous geysers, boiling springs, lakes and can- 
 yons, which are the very sources of the great water arteries 
 of the country ; the Colorado River flows south through its 
 gorge of wondrous depth and color, to the Gulf of Califor- 
 nia ; tlie Snake River wends its tortuous way to the Colum- 
 bia between basaltic clififs, and then in scenic splendor pushes 
 on to the sea ; and last, but not least, the Missouri, the long- 
 est river of the world, the pathway of Lewis and Clark, with 
 the Father of Waters, flowing amid corn and cotton and pop- 
 ulous cities, marks the Louisiana Purchase territorv to the 
 Gulf of Mexico. The National Park treats the sight-seer to 
 the mighty falls and canyon of the Yellowstone ; the Mis- 
 souri at Great Falls — a great volume of water harnessed to 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 25 
 
 industry ; and the Snake River, in southern Idaho, a tor- 
 rent of water fahing from a greater height and more ro- 
 mantic than Niagara. Principally at Butte and at Helena, 
 Mont., and along the Coeur d'Alenes, the mountains are giv- 
 ing forth untold mineral wealth. Nestled between their 
 mighty crests are peaceful and fertile valleys, the idyllic spots 
 of earth ; the scenic beauty of the Kootenai and Pend 
 d'Oreille, the upper sources of the Columbia; the wild 
 
 LOOKING INTO THE GREAT CRATER, EXCELSIOR BASIN. 
 
 grandeur of Avalanche Basin and the Lake McDonald coun- 
 try, and the glaciers of the mountains north of the interna- 
 tional line, bring within reach of the American traveler the 
 marvelous scenery of earth. 
 
 As the Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains is the western 
 barrier of the climatic conditions to the east, so the Bitter 
 Root and Coeur d'Alene mountains — the western range of 
 the Rockies — are the eastern barrier of the Columbia Plateau 
 and the entire Northwest coast region. 
 
26 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The Columbia Plateau may be described as the territory 
 lying between the Rockv and Cascade mountains, bounded 
 on the north by the international boundar}- and on the south 
 by the California and ^\e^■ada state lines. This covers the en- 
 tire state of Idaho and the eastern parts of Washington and 
 Oregon, an area of more than 175,000 square miles, and is 
 drained b}- the Columbia and Snake rivers, with their tribu- 
 taries. Although this is the basin of these two great rivers 
 of importance, their immediate valleys are in deep canyons, 
 the plains lying at quite an elevation above. The entire re- 
 gion is volcanic, having at various periods been built up by 
 lava flows, now existing in the form of basalt, the depth be- 
 ing from 3,000 to 4,000 feet. The cliffs of this formation 
 along the rivers are very noticeable and picturesque. The sur- 
 face of the main plains is devoted to wheat raising, and the 
 immediate river valle3-s to horticulture, one being entirely dis- 
 tinct from the other. 
 
 These elevated plains are much higher than the valley west 
 of the Cascades, but much lower than the Rockies or the Cas- 
 cades, so that the general country, exclusive of the interior 
 mountains, appears as one great basin. The basin, or plateau, 
 has, however, distinctive features. The Okanogan hills, or 
 mountains of the Colville reservation, culminate in Mount 
 Bonaparte, a snow-capped peak of 6,000 feet elevation, a sen- 
 tinel for all that region. These mountains are a part of the 
 divide between the Fraser River waters and British Columbia, 
 and the Columbia waters in the United States. To the south 
 m central Oregon are the Blue Mountains, running in a 
 northeasterly and soutliwesterly direction, extending into 
 southeastern Washington. A spur of the same mountains 
 branches off at about the center of the range and runs in a 
 general southerly direction as far as Harney and Malheur 
 counties in southern Oregon. These mountains are very high, 
 some peaks reaching from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, but, being in 
 the dry region, are snow-capped but a very 'small fraction of 
 the year. They have aided materially in shaping the courses 
 of the rivers, having turned the Columbia to the westward, 
 sent the Snake and its branch, the Owyhee, in Idaho, on a 
 more northerly and roundabout direction, forced the John 
 Day to round their southern and eastern borders, and parallel 
 the Des Chutes to obtain an outlet. These are the second 
 sentinels of the basin country. The third are the mountains 
 of central Idaho, which include the Saw Tooth, Wood River, 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 27 
 
 IN THE CEDARS ON MOOSE CREEK, BITTER ROOT RANGE. 
 
28 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Salmon River and Smoky mountains ; lastly Thunder Moun- 
 tain, situated in the very central part of the state of Idaho, 
 the most inaccessible and at the same time the most celebrated, 
 it being the center of a great mining excitement. 
 
 The Columbian Basin is known generally as an arid re- 
 gion, for the reason that the clouds, laden with moisture from 
 the Pacific, are held by the Cascade Mountains and forced to 
 give down their moisture on tlie western side, only a part 
 rising high enough to escape the peaks in their eastward prog- 
 ress. Therefore elevation throughout this region largely 
 gauges the rainfall ; the exception to the rule is that moist 
 winds and clouds sweep through the passes of the Cascades, 
 such as the gorge of the Columljia, and cause a greater yearly 
 precipitation than at other points. The Hood River country 
 in Oregon and the Ivlickitat country in Washington, along 
 the Columbia, are fortunately situated in this respect. In the 
 Okanogan Mountains and on all the uplands near these and 
 other mountains the rainfall is greater than in the depressions 
 of the plateau. The arid regions pertain to the lower part of 
 the basin, as an elevation of 3,000 feet arrests a large por- 
 tion of the passing clouds which, with the snowfall, affords 
 ample moisture for the growth of wheat. The soil is a vol- 
 canic ash, in some places being of great depth. It is capable 
 of absorbing and holding moisture to a high degree, so much 
 so that crops are raised often without a drop of rain from 
 seed time to harvest, the snow fall of the previous winter 
 being sufficient. This soil, when unmixed with sand, does 
 not irrigate successfully. On the contrary, the river val- 
 levs, which are arid and have a soil composed of sand and 
 volcanic ash, are susceptible to irrigation and highly adapted 
 to horticulture. In consequence, canals are built, taking the 
 water from the streams, and cheap lands are transformed 
 into wonderful fruit lands at materially higher prices. Na- 
 ture seems to have been very wise in her provisions. In the 
 Palouse country the richest wheat lands are so steep that they 
 are cultivated with difficulty, and the best results are said to 
 be had at the very top of the eminences. The volcanic soils 
 are very deep, improve with use, and seem to be almost in- 
 exhaustible. The Snake River plain is so very extensive 
 that it gets no summer rain, but receives quite a winter snow 
 fall when the neighboring mountains are being covered many 
 feet in depth. 
 
 These great plains are celebrated for their wheat crops, 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 29 
 
 WESTERN FRUIT IS ACHIEVING WIDE FAME. 
 
30 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 and from the three ports of Portland, Tacoma and Seattle 
 there is being exported ever}' year from one-tenth to one- 
 eighth of the gross exportations of wheat from the United 
 States. The valleys are becoming celebrated the world over 
 for fruit ; Hood River, Oregon, for its strawberries and ap- 
 ples ; the Snake River \'alley for apples and prunes ; the 
 Yakima River Valley for apples ; and Wenatchee for apples 
 and garden stuff. Ail these localities raise peaches as well as 
 apples. The preparations for irrigation along the Des Chutes 
 River, in eastern Oregon, and in southern Idaho along the 
 Snake River \'alley are wonderful to contemplate. 
 
 The extent of really arid land east of the Cascades is now 
 so much a matter of uncertainty as to lead to many contro- 
 versies between those who would furnish irrigation systems 
 for profit, and the people who are ready to take the lands for 
 cultivation without canals, for vast regions have been re- 
 claimed, as the Creat Bend of the Columbia region in east- 
 ern Washington was, without water. People are remember- 
 ing how settlement and cultivation in Kansas and Nebraslva 
 conquered the "Great American Desert." Time is doing 
 the same work in tlie supposed arid region east of the Cas- 
 cades, pulverizing the volcanic matter, loosening it, and aiding 
 it to absorb moisture. Throughout the actual irrigation re- 
 gions steps are in progress for extensive work, both under 
 government control and private management. These are bv 
 natural reservoirs, by artificial reservoirs, and bv ditches to 
 direct water from the streams. These canals, or ditches, are 
 often man}- miles in length, with tunnels and flumes, costing 
 large sums of money. The plan of private operation is either 
 to mortgage the lands to pay for the improvement, or to. 
 give a part of the land — one-half of raw land, one-third of 
 improved land — and a rental of $1.25 per acre annually as 
 the water is delivered. Original cost, maintenance of co-op- 
 erative ditches, and those under the Care}- act, will be given 
 with their localities. 
 
 The climate of the Columbia Basin is materially milder 
 than the Montana plains east of the Rockv Mountains, and 
 considerably colder than the country west of the Cascade 
 ^Mountains, bordering on the ocean. The temperature varies 
 considerably with the altitude, but there are no extremes of 
 heat or cold. There is little cold weather during the winter, 
 which is very short, and though snow falls over the whole 
 territory it is melted by the prevailing southwest winds, which 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 31 
 
 moderate the climate fully 25". These winds come from the 
 warm current off the coast and are commonly known as the 
 "Chinook winds." 
 
 IN TPIE CASCADE RANGE. 
 
 We now come to the Cascade Rang-e of mountains, a 
 continuation of the Sierra Nevadas of California, which have 
 the most marked eiTect upon the climatic conditions of the 
 Pacific Coast and especially the Pacific Northwest of any of 
 the mountain ranges. It is a compact range, varying in the 
 
32 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 average height of from 4,000 to 8,000 feet, running parallel 
 to the coast line about 100 miles, and dividing two very dis- 
 similar regions. Many of its inland peaks rise above the 
 snow line and in their robes of white are of great interest 
 to the traveling public. Beginning on the north, near the 
 boundary line, the first peak of note is Mount Baker, 11,100 
 feet in height ; south and east of Puget Sound, standing out 
 from the main range almost solitary, probably the most sym- 
 metrical mountain on the Pacific Coast, is Mount Rainier, 
 or Tacoma, height 14,526 feet ; two volcanic peaks come next 
 — Mount Adams, 12,225, ^nd St. Helens, 10,000 feet; south 
 of the Columbia stands Mount Hood in all its grandeur, an- 
 other volcanic cone, 11,225 ^eet in height; still farther south 
 are Mount Jefferson, height 10,200 feet, and many peaks 
 ranging from 6,000 to 9,000 feet. This range is the western 
 barrier of the Columbia Basin and the eastern boundary of the 
 Pacific Coast region proper. West of the Cascade Moun- 
 tains, and like them, running directly parallel to the sea shore, 
 is the Coast Range, a broken and disconnected range of 
 mountains, at an average height of perhaps 3.500 feet, ris- 
 ing in its highest peak, Mount Olympus, to 8,000 feet. In 
 the Olympic Mountains they stand out in high and majestic 
 beauty, while farther south they are broken but rise again in 
 southern Oregon to meet the Siskiyous. 
 
 There is but little level country between this range and 
 the sea, but the country between the two ranges is mostly 
 a valley, extending from and including that multiplication 
 of inland bays and harbors known as Puget Sound southward 
 through Washington to the Columbia and through the entire 
 length of the Willamette River to the Calapooia Mountains. 
 This range is a spur of the Cascades, which runs east and 
 west and divides the Willamette Valley from the Umpqua 
 Valley, and again farther south, another east and west range 
 divides the Umpqua Valley from the Rogue River Valley. 
 In the great process of erosion the Columbia and Fraser riv- 
 ers broke through the Cascade Range on their way to the 
 sea. These gorges contain considerable wild and grand scen- 
 ery, a never ending delight to the passengers by the rail- 
 roads using these passes as highways. The Columbia River 
 is nine miles wide twelve miles above its mouth, and seven- 
 teen miles wide some distance farther up. During its whole 
 course it is a deep flowing lake or swift flowing river. It 
 drains 500,000 square miles of territory, while the entire por- 
 
TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE 
 
 33 
 
 tion of the United States, east of the Mississippi, is but 875,- 
 000 square miles. 
 
 The entire territory west of the Cascades is of very mod- 
 erate temperature with a humid atmosphere, the rainfall 
 reaching over 100 inches near the coast in Oregon and Wash- 
 ington annually. The mildness of the climate is supposed 
 to be due to the Japan ocean current, which is very warm 
 and flows in close proximity to the coast. In low altitudes 
 snow is extremely rare and there are no extremes of heat and 
 cold. The mercury seldom reaches 90° in summer, and the 
 
 THERE IS FERTILE SOIL IN ,THE WEST. 
 
 isothermal of 45° — 55° annual temperature — runs in serpen- 
 tine lines over the entire region. Farmers plow during all 
 months of the year. The cause of the. great precipitation is 
 attributed to the moisture-laden clouds rising from the warm 
 ocean current and being driven by the winds against the 
 mountains, and there squeezed out "like sponges. The rain 
 is not continuous throughout the year, for there is what is 
 known as a wet season and a dry season, which correspond 
 to the winter and summer season, the former beginning about 
 November 15 and ending about March 15. During the 
 wet season the rain falls about three fourths of the time. There 
 
34 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is a complete absence of violent electrical storms on the entire 
 Pacific Coast, thunder and lightning being exceedingly rare, 
 and there is also a remarkable freedom from flies. Though 
 warm weather is had during the day in any time of the year, it 
 does not signify that the evenings will be warm, for there 
 is no time when blankets are not needed at night. 
 
 TiiiEER. — The extreme humidity of the territory west of 
 the Cascade Mountains necessarily produces the most favor- 
 able conditions for a rank growth of vegetation. The whole 
 vi'estern slopes and valleys are or have been covered with a 
 dense growth of evergreen timber, the most wonderful body 
 in the world with the exception of the redwoods of Cah- 
 fornia. Near the higher elevations of the Cascades, where 
 the rainfall is the greatest, the timber grows to extreme 
 heights without a limb. Forests are scattered in tracts along 
 the higher land, east of the Cascades from California north- 
 ward. Eastern Oregon affords several especially fine bodies 
 near the head waters of the Des Chutes, and Washington, 
 near the Columbia, and in the Okanogan Mountains ; in 
 Idaho are scattered tracts throughout its mountain region, 
 with a very large body in the Panhandle and the Kootenai, ex- 
 tending into Montana. The heaviest timber is to be found 
 near the coast. The area in timber is estimated at over one 
 billion acres, and the merchantable lumber standing on it is 
 believed to approximate four hundred billion feet. The tim- 
 ber is mostly of the deciduous varieties and includes the Doug- 
 las, or Oregon fir, red and white cedar, and several species 
 of pine, hemlock, and other woods. There are some hard 
 woods, but they are of small growth. They are found mostly 
 in the southern part. Considering the length of time the for- 
 ests should last in commerce and manufacture, it may be stated 
 that the largest amount of lumber cut to this time has been 
 two billion feet, the combined product of Washington, Ore- 
 gon and British mills for the year 1902. It would therefore 
 appear that at this enormous rate there is enough to last 
 for 200 years. Great loss has occurred from forest fires, but 
 the government has lately inaugurated large forest reserves 
 and it is expected this loss will be prevented in a large de- 
 gree by the patrol system thus established. Of any timber 
 manufactured into lumber, probably the spruce and fir of this 
 region are the largest in the world, excepting only the Cali- 
 fornia redwoods. The dimensions of this timber quite sur- 
 pass belief, there being fir logs fourteen feet, and spruce logs 
 
INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 
 
 35 
 
 SIX TWENTY-FOUR FOOT LOGS FROM ONE TREE. OREGON FIR. 
 
3G GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sixteen to twenty-five feet in diameter, witli trees standing from 
 150 to 200 feet high, witli a record of 351 feet. In the order 
 of tlie value of production, lumber is the largest industry, 
 wheat a close second, the mines continguous to the agricultural 
 country third, and fisheries fourth. 
 
 Agricultural Products. — In 1900 the export of wheat 
 from the Pacific Northwest was 36,000,000 bushels ; in 1901 
 one county in Washington (Whitman) with a population of 
 30,000, raised 6,000,000 bushels of wheat, and one county in 
 Oregon (Umatilla) with a population of 18,000, raised 4,- 
 500,000 bushels ; this, with the live stock, wool, etc. sold, 
 brought a total of $195 for every man, woman and child 
 in the county. The same year, exclusive of British Columbia, 
 the Pacific Northwest raised 7,000,000 bushels of potatoes, or 
 one-twentieth of the average crop of the United States. The 
 stock, dairy and wool interests, with cereal and other crops 
 raised are treated in connection with the different localities. 
 The wheat empire, generally speaking, is co-extensive with 
 the basaltic soils, and contrasts with the Crimean plains of 
 Russia. With millions to be fed in China and other lands 
 near to this 'Tnland Empire,"' and with cheap transporta- 
 tion, it is easy to see why the wheat raiser as well as the 
 stock-grower is getting rich. In the days of the small farmer 
 in the east the cost of raising wheat was fifty cents per bushel, 
 not far from the price it lorought on the market. To-day, 
 in Washington, with the extensive system of farming, with 
 broad fields and combined harvesters and threshers — thus 
 saving the stacking and sweating process — sacking in the 
 fields and hauling on the good, dry roads, the cost is reduced 
 to from twenty-five to twenty-eight cents, while the price ob- 
 tained for the crops stands about fifty cents per bushel, which 
 gives a profit of about 100 per cent. 
 
 Mines. — The mines of the Pacific Northwest are producing 
 millions annually. It should not be forgotten that the North- 
 west has produced the greater part of the gold in the United 
 States treasury, which at the beginning of 1903 amounted 
 to nearly $600,000,000. The placers of Alaska, furnished 
 $25,000,000 in gold during 1902. Included in this is the prod- 
 uct of the Klondike, the greater part of which came to the 
 United States. The production of gold and silver in the dif- 
 ferent states for 1902, as estimated by director of the mint 
 at Washington, is as follows : 
 
INDUSTRIES AND CO:\lMERCE 
 
 
 ^K^^^BBR^HI^^^HI 
 
 
 ^^^^Kf jH'y^^^^H^^^R*^ '^^^^^^IBf^S^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HI 
 
 T^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 ^^^^H^HHhr* ^ jid^w^^^HH^^I^^^^^^I 
 
 kj^^^^^l 
 
 ^^^k'IhI^ j^^H 
 
 
 
 
 ■*-• ^M|iuB ^ " ^^^H^^^^^^^^l 
 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^Hfe^ ^^jhSm^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I 
 
 
 r^^^^^HB^^'^^~^^^v^^^^l^al 
 
 
 i^^Mi'Hfl 
 
 AT work: 1,300 FEET BELOW THE SURFACE. 
 
38 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Silver, 
 
 Source Gold, commer- 
 
 of produce. value. cial value. 
 
 Alaska $7,823,793 $ 30,061 
 
 Arizona 4,155,099 1,680,100 
 
 California 17,124,941 480,793 
 
 Colorado 27,502,429 9,085,714 
 
 Idaho 2,067,183 3,180,000 
 
 Montana 4.134,365 6,890,000 
 
 Nevada 3,514,212 2,120,000 
 
 Oregon 1,860,465 63,600 
 
 South Dakola 7,398,057 182,373 
 
 Utah 3,720,930 6,360,000 
 
 Klondike 14,562,191 91,768 
 
 This places the total amount of gold at $80,853,070, and 
 of silver at $31,040,025. 
 
 The production of copper in Silver Bow County, Mont., 
 alone, is about $60,000,000, or about one-fourth of the entire 
 production of the world. 
 
 Coal is well distributed and plays a very prominent part 
 in the mining economy of the entire Northwest. 
 
 Fisheries. — The salmon industry has grown to a wonder- 
 ful point and has been perfected within the past ten years. 
 The question is only whether the salmon are being depleted. 
 The coast states are endeavoring to maintain the supply by 
 propagation, the salmon waters being restocked at the rate of 
 50,000,000 a year, one-half furnished by the United States 
 hatcheries, the other half being divided between Washington 
 and Oregon. 
 
 Lands. — To encourage emigration the railroads have each 
 year offered and maintained a homeseekers' rate, about half 
 the regular price charged, and the surprise is that while lands 
 in the east are selling for from $50 an acre up, that the free 
 lands of the west, the richest in the world, have not been taken 
 faster when they offer so many inducements. Emigration h 
 rapidly reducing the quantity, but millions of people may 
 yet find government lands for homes. Enormous areas in 
 JBritish Columbia are offered under English laws. Alaska 
 is as yet untouched, and there is much excellent land in what 
 seems to be a far oft country. In Washington, Oregon and 
 Idaho, on January i, 1900, there was opened for settlement 
 approximately 90,000,000 acres of land, or an area equal to 
 one-twentieth of the total area of the United States. These 
 have been going to homesteaders and purchasers by script and 
 otherwise at the rate of 5,000,000 acres per year. These lands 
 
INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 
 
 39 
 
 are free, except for the small government charge of $i6 at 
 the land office. Where reservation lands have been opened 
 $1.25 per acre additional must be paid to the government. 
 
 Emigration. — The old bufifalo trails may yet be seen in 
 northern Montana in places where the ranging cattle have 
 not obliterated them, but no buffalo are left, save those in 
 corrals and parks. The Indian tepee is seen at infrequent 
 intervals throughout the west. The only tangible remnant 
 of the North American Indian are the 15,000 full bloods and 
 their half white brothers in the prospective state of Oklahoma, 
 and the few northern Indians practically corralled upon the 
 
 L tj^j. ii_. M iMK^K^^^^M 
 
 j^^L^ 
 
 
 
 A FISH WHEEL ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 reservations. The legendary days of the buffalo and the 
 Indian are all that is left. The loves of Hiawatha and Min- 
 nehaha will be sung in future years, and history will recount 
 the fierce combats with Sitting Bull and Geronimo, but the 
 majesty of the Indian, his independence and his individnality, 
 have gone with the buffalo, never to return, and all within 
 a few short years. The Indian gave place to the pioneer, 
 the stockman and the railroad. The stockman is now giving 
 place to the diversified farmer. Few people outside of the 
 ever-changing west realize the effects of the waves of emi- 
 gration that have swept over that country. 
 
 The tides of emigration to the Northwest of to-day began 
 in 1879. Another wave succeeded it in 1883, and again in 
 
40 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 1887, decreasino-, however, during the next two or three years. 
 The present wave of emigration is greater than those which 
 preceded it, and differs materially trom any of the others. 
 The first settlement of the Minnesota Northwest was made 
 by Americans in wagons, with but few dollars and their out- 
 fit, and by foreigners direct from Castle Garden, who settled 
 upon the land under the Homestead Act. The present emi- 
 gration chronicles the sale of these lands originally taken 
 throughout the Mississippi Valley at a price approximately 
 of $50 per acre to the farmer of the extreme eastern and mid- 
 dle states. With this money in hand the new capitalists, by 
 rail instead of by wagon, proceed to the Pacific Northwest 
 to seek new lands at undeveloped prices. It is estimated that 
 during the spring of 1902, 162,000 homeseekers passed over 
 the northern railway lines, 67,000 of whom settled in Mon- 
 tana or farther west, 10,000 going to Oregon, 50,000 to 
 Washington, and 7,000 to Montana. A portion went to Idaho, 
 which fact is probably taken into account in the Washington 
 figures. Fifty thousand settled in South Dakota, 12,000 in 
 Rlinnesota, and 8,000 in North Dakota, while 25,000 went to 
 Manitoba. These figures do not take into account those com- 
 ing over the Union Pacific Railway, this number being esti- 
 mated at 36,000. 
 
 The intense desire to obtain cheap lands has caused an 
 overflow of the American settler into Canada far beyond any 
 belief. A Manitoba paper puts the estimate at double the fig- 
 ures herein given. This is caused by the fact that the Ameri- 
 can citizen is not forced to take an oath of allegiance in order 
 to obtain the land, which may be purchased outright. The 
 majority of these settlers went to western Manitoba and 
 Assiniboia. 
 
 A large amount of land has been taken under the timber 
 act for the value of the timber upon the land, and the choicest 
 homesteads have also been settled upon, but there are large 
 amounts of lands as rich as any of those already taken, lack- 
 ing only the water to make them fertile and only partially 
 so at that. To open up these areas the governmai't is inaug- 
 urating systems of irrigating reservoirs. There is no doubt 
 of the irrigation age being at hand instead of hx the future. 
 Those who have been slothful in the past years of low prices 
 of commodities are now waking up and will settle the entire 
 domain as fast as Uncle Sam will reclaim it. As it is accom- 
 plished, another wave of emigration will roll over the west, 
 
INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 
 
 41 
 
42 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 and the settler can begin at the Dakota hne and come west- 
 ward with the tide as those before him did, for the great Milk 
 River district, in northern Montana, will open fully a million 
 acres to settlement, as will numberless other valleys. 
 
 The Pacific Northwest is young and mighty. The re- 
 sources have been developed to some extent, but the possi- 
 bilities are beyond the majority of the other states which 
 form the American Union. 
 
 Commerce. — The line of the world's commerce beyond the 
 coast lies north of California. The Northwest has to-day 
 a commerce the marvel of the world in volume, scope and 
 energy. Transcontinental lines connect with the -east and 
 south, and ships, the mightiest on earth, are now being built 
 for the Oriental trade, which has developed into enormous 
 volume within a short period of time. The cities of Port- 
 land, Tacoma, Victoria and \^ancouver are not only con- 
 nected with each other by a net-work of lines, but they reach 
 out to Alaska and the south and to the Orient. 
 
 In a recent address, James J- Hill, President of the Great 
 Northern Railway, made the declaration that the trade with 
 the Orient is the oldest commercial trade in the world, that 
 the commercial nations from the earliest dawn of history have 
 sought it, and that it has built up more cities in the world 
 than any other trade. 
 
 But the trade of the Orient is comparatively new to the 
 United States, the line of transportation having heretofore 
 been to the eastward rather than to the westward. The peo- 
 ple of the Orient with whom we are enabled to trade con- 
 stitute fully one-half of the population of the earth. Ten 
 years ago we sold Japan annually $5,000,000 in gOods, and 
 purchased $30,000,000. To-day we sell this nation $30,000,- 
 000 and purchase $9,000,000 annually, which shows the 
 development of the trade along these new lines. The nation 
 that is now about to be opened to commerce is China. The 
 Chinese empire is more populous than Japan, and the better 
 classes are more able. To-day China purchases annually from 
 the United States over three hundred millions and should pur- 
 chase one billion dollars. The traffic to the Orient is largely a 
 matter of food products. Though the shipments of flour from 
 Puget Sound ports and from Portland have reached magnifi- 
 cent proportions, the traffic is susceptible of enormous develop- 
 ment. During 1901 the flour used in China would equal, in the 
 wheat form, about 18,000,000 bushels ; for the year ending June 
 
INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 
 
 43 
 
44 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 30, 1902, the exports of flour from Puget Sound to the Orient 
 and South Africa amounted to one and a quarter million bar- 
 rels. Steel rails have been shipped to Japan, and cotton, the 
 value of which reached several million dollars, has been shipped 
 to various ports of the Orient. A single Puget Sound line to 
 the Orient was compelled to refuse in a single month 30,000 
 bales of cotton from the southern states, from the lack of 
 ships to carry them. 
 
 The movement of lumber from the forests of Puget Sound 
 to the east, at a fair rate, necessitates the cars being loaded 
 on their return. The lumber and shingle shipment for this 
 long distance enables the railroads to make a short rate on . 
 cotton and products bound for the Orient, and thus a basis 
 for this trade has been established. The wheat that is raised 
 on the basaltic plains of the Columbia Basin has a near and 
 ready market toward the setting sun in exchange for tea, 
 sugar, silks, etc. The trade, now in its infancy, is lacking in 
 ocean transportation, and larger ships with greater carrying 
 capacity are being built than ever before. 
 
 The distance from the ports of the American Pacific coast 
 are much nearer the Oriental seaboards than New York or 
 the European cities. A few figures will readily show the ad- 
 vantage. The distance from Liverpool to Canton is 10,900 
 miles : San Francisco to Canton, 6,800 miles. From San 
 Francisco to the Amur River, 3,900 miles ; to Vladivostock, 
 5,750 miles; from Liverpool, 13,550 and 1^,750 miles respect- 
 ively. The difference in favor of San Francisco amounts to 
 several thousand miles, and the ports of Puget Sound are sev-* 
 eral hundred miles nearer Asia than San Frailcisco, for tlis 
 degrees of longitude are less in miles in proportion to their 
 distance from the equator. 
 
 The Pacific Ocean has become the center of a commercial 
 battle now raging, and the inhabitants of the north Pacific 
 Coast are the ones who will determine the results and reap 
 the rewards. They are the nearest neighbors of the people to 
 the west (not to the east) and are enabled to visit them weekly 
 with their ships and goods for barter. A step to Hawaii, a 
 second to the Philippines, and lo ! a magical change took place 
 and a continual stream of goods poured into these countries, 
 whose internal workings ten years ago were a sealed book. 
 
 With lines of American steamships, built in American ship- 
 yards, owned by American capital, officered by American sea- 
 men, and plying between the North .\merican seaboards and 
 
INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 
 
 45 
 
46 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Oriental ports, the predominance on the Pacific Ocean is as- 
 sured to the United States. 
 
 MINNESOTA. 
 
 Minnesota, the land of a myriad of beautiful lakes and 
 highly cultivated farms, is the first state traversed on a trip 
 from the twin cities — St. Paul and Minneapolis — to the Pa- 
 cific Coast over either of the northern routes. This state 
 adjoins the Dominion of Canada, and has an area of 83,365 
 square miles, of which 4,160 square miles are water. Its 
 population to-day is more than 2,000,000 people. In 1900 
 the unappropriated lands in this state comprised more than 
 4,000,000 acres, of which over 2,000,000 were unsurveyed. 
 These lands lie mostly in the extreme northern part of the 
 state, which is generally a timbered country and is at pres- 
 ent distant from railway transportation. Two-thirds of the 
 state is a fertile prairie country, the larger part of which has 
 been settled up during the past thirty years and is now devoted 
 to diversified farming ; in the southern part the improved 
 land has a value of about $50 per acre. 
 
 The early history of the state is like that of many others, 
 a fierce struggle with the Indians for mastery, in which sev- 
 eral atrocious massacres took place. Wheat was the great 
 staple in the early days, but this cereal in the southern part 
 of the state has given place to corn, cattle, and dairying, and 
 in consequence of its exceedingly succulent grasses the fame 
 of that locality is becoming as wide as that of Wisconsin, 
 which produces more butter and cheese than any of the 
 other states of the Union. The state is separated from 
 North Dakota on the west by the Red River of the 
 North, in the valley of which the wheat fields are 
 very extensive, reaching the size of small European prin- 
 cipalities. These farms are operated on a systematic 
 and well regulated plan. The soil of the valley is very deep 
 and fertile and shows no sign of deterioration after 
 being sown to one crop for twenty-five years. The Red 
 River A^alley will be spoken of again with North Dakota. 
 The northern part of the state is mostly covered with pine 
 timber, which has been manufactured by mills along the 
 Mississippi River for the past half century, adding much to 
 the wealth of the state. In the extreme northeastern part 
 
MINNESOTA 
 
 47 
 
 are extensive hematite iron mines, perhaps the largest on the 
 continent. From these mines the blast furnaces of Ohio and 
 Pennsylvania are furnished with the raw material from which 
 the major portion of the iron and steel rails used in the 
 United States is made. 
 
 The city of St. Paul, the capital of the state, situated at 
 the head of navigation of the Mississippi River, and Minne- 
 apolis, situated nine miles distant at the Falls of St. Anthony, 
 the two having a combmed population of fully 400,000 peo- 
 ple, are termed the "Twin Cities." They are very strong 
 
 THE TOWER OF OLD FORT SNELLING, MINNESOTA. 
 
 commercially and are surrounded by an empire rich in re- 
 sources ; to the south are corn, cattle and dairying inter- 
 ests ; to the east, north and noriheast, forests of pine timber 
 and extensive iron mines ; to the northwest extensive wheat 
 fields and stock ranges. In addition these cities are one of 
 the great railway centers, as ten railroads radiate from them 
 in all directions, while two trans-continental lines have their 
 terminals and headquarters in St. Paul. The remarkable 
 feature of Minneapolis is its water power and the manu- 
 factures connected therewith. In 1900 it manufactured the 
 enormous amount of 594,370,000 feet of lumber. More than 
 ten years ago Minneapolis became the first lumber producing 
 
48 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 city in the world, which supremacy will probably be main- 
 tained until the northern lands are denuded of their forests. 
 In 1900 the city received 83,312,320 bushels of wheat, which 
 makes it the largest wheat market of the world. During this 
 year 15,082,725 barrels of flour were produced from this 
 wheat, showing that a large percentage of it was ground 
 in the city before leaving for the east. This is more flour 
 than is produced by any other 'city in the world. Its mills 
 have the largest capacity, which is over 27,000,000 barrels 
 per year, and the largest mill. Not only has Minneapolis the 
 largest mill, but it has the largest elevator, with a capacity 
 of 30,000,000 bushels, or enough to store at one time one- 
 third of the annual receipts of the entire city. 
 
 St. Paul is known as the main jobbing center of the state, 
 the city has various manufactories of boots and shoes and all 
 the intermediate articles, with a banking capital equal to any 
 emergency. The cities are romantically located, have exten- 
 sive park systems, especially Minneapolis, and fine streets and 
 residences. Between the cities are located Fort Snelling, at 
 one time the Indian military outpost of the country, and the 
 Falls of Minnehaha, made famous by Longfellow's poem. The 
 lakes of the state are not marshes, but pure, clear, sky-tinted 
 waters, pleasant to look upon. They are filled with fish and 
 in season with ducks and geese in profusion. 
 
 Duluth, "the Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas," is located 
 on Lake Superior and the St. Louis River, the extreme west- 
 ern shore of the great lakes, and if a deep waterway to the 
 Atlantic is ever effected this city will become an Atlantic sea- 
 port. To-day it is a water terminal of the Great Northern 
 and Northern Pacific railways, has large elevator capacity, 
 and handles nearly as much wheat as Minneapolis. Its flour 
 mills are also becoming celebrated. A fleet of several hun- 
 dred vessels takes the different tonnage from this port, 
 through the Sault Ste. Marie Canal to eastern ports. The 
 city is built upon a hillside, overlooking Lake Superior, and 
 has a population of about 75,000. 
 
 Taking the state of Minnesota as a whole, it is ramified by 
 many railroads, the Great Northern, the Northern Pacific, and 
 the "Soo Line" covering the northwestern part of the state. 
 
MINNESOTA 
 
 49 
 
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 w|^ 
 
 
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 ■■•w 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 L 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^^. ^a 
 
 m 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 /V 
 
 B^^^I^B 
 
 i 
 
50 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 North Dakota is an immense stretch of level and rolling 
 pairie land and river valleys, with numerous small lakes. 
 Its area is 70,795 square miles and its population 319,146. 
 The Red River of the North, which is the eastern boundary 
 of the state, forms a valley including that part located in the 
 state of Minnesota, comprising a tract of land 250 miles long, 
 with a width of from fifty to 100 miles. This valley is almost 
 a level plain, with a descent of from one to two feet to the 
 mile, sloping to the north, in which direction the river runs. 
 
 A BIT OF DULUTIT AND HARBOR. 
 
 It is so nearly level that the currents of the streams are quite 
 sluggish. The altitude above sea level at Fargo on this 
 river is 902 feet, and at Pembina, on the boundary line, 789 
 feet. This entire valley is very fertile, the soil being a black 
 loam, with a subsoil of alluvial clays, mixed with drift, sand, 
 and gravel. The valley has an area of about one-thirteenth 
 of Minnesota and North Dakota together, and produced in 
 1902 fully 40,000,000 bushels of wheat, or more than twen- 
 ty-five per cent of the crop of the two states combined. The 
 products of this remarkable valley have made the state cel- 
 ebrated in all countries. For twenty-five years it has been 
 raising No. i hard wheat in such quantities that led to its be- 
 ing called the "bread basket of the world." Perhaps no 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 
 
 51 
 
 country of like area has been so productive of the cereals. 
 The land is under a high state of cultivation and the country 
 is dotted with beautiful homes. The farms have been hereto- 
 fore what is known as "Bonanza" farms from their extent, 
 some comprising from 30,000 to 40,000 acres. These farms 
 are now being subdivided, and there are other lands to be ob- 
 
 STREET SCENE IN DULUTH. 
 
 tained which have been partially cultivated, or even raw lands, 
 which will produce in the same proportion as those previously 
 tilled. 
 
 The Red River \'alley proper includes the counties of Pem- 
 bina, Walsh, Grand Forks, Traill, Cass, and Richland, in 
 North Dakota, and Kittson, Marshall, Polk, Norman, Clay, 
 Red Lake, and \^'ilkin, in Minnesota, the heavy black top soil 
 
52 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 of the valley readily marking its boundary. The valley is not 
 thickly settled, and the price of land is low compared with 
 its value, though it has advanced nearly loo per cent since 
 1900. Throughout this state land can be had from $5 to $30 
 per acre. There are no good homesteads outside of the arid 
 belt left in this state. The soil of central Dakota is a black 
 loam, varying from two to three feet in thickness ; it has a 
 clay subsoil, which retains the moisture of the winter and 
 early spring in reserve for summer use, and its fertility is 
 remarkable. The Red River Valley has ample rainfall, which 
 gradually decreases toward the west until the Missouri Coteau 
 is reached, beyond which irrigation is required. From the 
 Turtle and Pembina mountains, along the boundary line to 
 the south, the descent is gradual to Devil's Lake, which 
 has no visible outlet and whose waters are salty, or alkaline. 
 
 Between the Turtle Mountains and the ^lissouri River lies 
 the Missouri Coteau, a grass}- upland country extending 
 across the state from northwest to southeast and forming the 
 eastern watershed of the Missouri. The plateau affords evi- 
 dences of the great glacial lake, which in prehistoric times 
 extended from Lake Winnipeff to Oklahoma. Of this vast 
 lake the Red River and Lake AVinnipeg country was the very 
 bottom or basin, and the smaller lake formed there afterward 
 is known to geologists as Lake Agassiz. The Missouri Coteau 
 formed a section of the western shore line at one stage. The 
 countrv east of the Coteau is a rolling prairie sloping to the 
 southeast, drained by the Cheyenne and James rivers. The 
 Mouse River enters the United States near the Coteau, and 
 after a wide circle returns to Canada west Of the Turtle 
 Mountains. This is a good wheat valley. The Little Mis- 
 souri, the Heart and the Cannon Ball rivers water the west- 
 ern part of the state and discharge into the Missouri River 
 on the west. The whole southern and central part of the 
 state is good wheat land, save the so-called "Bad Lands" in 
 the extreme southwestern part, wliich comprise a belt twenty- 
 five miles wide and one hundred miles long, and follow the 
 Little Missouri River. This land, once a level plain, has been 
 cut by the branches of the Little Missouri and the action of 
 fire from burning lignite coal seams, so as to form a labyrinth 
 of gullies, buttes and figures of all sorts, in which the novice 
 would become irretrievably lost. East of Medora, where the 
 Northern Pacific crosses the ]\Iissouri River, the buttes are 
 of a blood-red color ; in places petrified stumps and trunks 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 
 
 53 
 
54 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 of trees are brought to the surface, and at a number of places 
 coal veins are still burning beneath the surface of the ground, 
 sending forth sulphurous fumes through fissures in the earth. 
 This whole country, however, is covered with grass, and is one 
 of the finest cattle districts in the west. A special merit of 
 the bad lands is that stock is sheltered in the ravines during 
 the winter. 
 
 The winters of North Dakota are sometimes very cold, but 
 the air is dry and the cold is not severely felt. The extreme 
 range of temperature is 105° to — 44°, and the annual rainfall 
 for the major part of the state is eighteen inches. Large areas 
 in the western part of the state, especially west of the Mis- 
 souri River, are underlaid with lignite coal of good quality. 
 In the Turtle Mountains, at Burlington, at Kenmare, at Har- 
 vey, in Wells County, and at Washburn, in McLean County, 
 coal is being mined and sold at a profit, nearly fifty coal 
 mines being operated in the state to some extent. In the 
 "Bad Lands" coal seems to exist in some places six to eight 
 feet in thickness, and it is not uncommon for farmers to have 
 coal mines on their farms. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Railway traverses the middle south- 
 ern portion of the state, having been built as far as Bismarck 
 in 1873. The Great Northern crosses the middle northern 
 portion of the state from east to west, and the "Soo Line" 
 crosses the state in a northeasterly and southeasterly direc- 
 tion, entering Canada by the Mouse River Valley. The 
 Great Northern and Northern Pacific reach Winnipeg in 
 Manitoba Province through the Red River Valley. 
 
 Bismarck, the capital of the state, has a population of 
 3,319, is situated on the Missouri River at the crossing of the 
 Northern Pacific. Jamestown, with a population of 2,853, ^^ 
 a prosperous town ninety-eight miles east of Bismarck. 
 
 Fargo is situated on the Red River and the Northern Pa- 
 cific and Great Northern railwavs, and is the commercial cen- 
 ter of the state. It has a population of 9.589. 
 
 Grand Forks is the commercial center of the northeastern 
 part of the state, lies in the heart of the Red River, wheat 
 Ijelt, and has a population of 7,652. 
 
 There has been quite a boom in North Dakota lands during 
 the past two or three years, since it has been learned that 
 nearlv the entire state produces most all kinds of crops. In 
 1901 the crop of wheat produced was $45,741,618 bushels; 
 flax, 12,868,088 bushels: oats, 20,7^10,314 bushels; barley. 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 
 
 55 
 
56 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 0,140,437 bushels; corn, 1,282,082 bushels; potatoes, 2,031,- 
 608 bushels, and there was live stock sold to the value of 
 $5,306,167. 
 
 A DAY S HUNT IN NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 The Commissioner of Agriculture and Labor reports for 
 the year 1901 38,801 cultivated farms and over 20,000 com- 
 bmed ranches and farms, forty-three lignite coal mines in 
 operation, eight cheese factories and thirty-eight creameries. 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 The name Montana is from the Spanish language, mean- 
 ing mouHtainous, and the state is known as the "Bonanza" or 
 "Treasure" state, from its mountains containing such vast 
 mineral deposits. It is bounded by the Canadian provinces of 
 Alberta and Assiniboia on the north, the Dakotas on the east, 
 Wyoming and Idaho on the south, and the latter state on the 
 west. The average length of the state from east to west is 
 535 miles, and the breadth from north to south 275 miles, 
 comprising the great area of 146,080 square miles, or, ap- 
 proximately, 94,000,000 acres. It is the third largest state in 
 the Union, and by the 1900 census had a population of 243,- 
 
 329- 
 
 E.\RLY History. — As early as 1742 the French voyageur, 
 Verendrye, and his sons traversed this state in quest of furs 
 and camped at the base of the Rocky Mountains. In 1805 
 the now famous Lewis and Clark expedition ascended the 
 main rivers of the state, marvelled at the falls of the Mis- 
 souri, named the head waters of that great river, climbed the 
 Rocky Mountains, and passed on to the Pacific. Retracing 
 
MONTANA 
 
 57 
 
 their steps by a shorter route, they explored the Marias and 
 Yellowstone rivers and returned to the then settled part of 
 the United States. Their names are now indelibly inscribed 
 on the geography of the country. 
 
 Montana's rich storehouse of nature had been, since the 
 earliest discoveries, either in the possession of France or 
 
 IN PYRAMID PARK, NORTH DAKOTA. 
 
 Spain, but in 1803 Napoleon, being short of money, bar- 
 gained it to the United States with the other territory con- 
 stituting what is known as the Louisiana Purchase. 
 
 Following the superficial knowledge thus learned, Emanuel 
 Liza, of St. Louis, in 1809 established a trading post on the 
 Yellowstone, and in 1827 Fort L'nion was built at the mouth 
 of the Milk River by the American Fur Companv. The first 
 step toward navigation of the Missouri River was in 1832, 
 
58 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 when the steamboat Yellowstone arrived at Fort Union ; in 
 1835 the steamer Assinniboine came up as far as Fort Buford 
 and ascended the Yellowstone River for about sixty-five 
 miles ; and in 1846 Alexander Culbertson built Fort Benton, 
 and the steamboat Chippewa, in i860, reached that point and 
 established it as the head of navigation, and it so remained, 
 going into the annals of history as the extreme outpost of 
 steam communication until the transcontinental railroads were 
 built. It enjoyed a great trade in furs, buffalo hides, etc., in 
 exchange for goods, and it took an entire season for a boat 
 to make the round trip from St. Louis, running many risks 
 trom the quicksands and changing sand bars of that capricious 
 stream, and the many dangers from attacks by Indians, who 
 became gradually more belligerent toward the white man 
 until they were subjugated. The Catholic missionaries fol- 
 lowed the fur traders and the trappers, Father De Smet 
 founding St. Mary's Mission in Ravalli County in 1862. He 
 is given the credit of having sown the first wheat field at 
 Stevensville and of building, in 1845, St. Ignatius' Mission, 
 with a school for boys and girls. The latter is the mission 
 on the present Flathead Indian Reservation, in Missoula 
 County. Thus religion, education, agriculture, and commerce 
 were all given an impetus within a very few years. After 
 this spurt slow progress was made toward civilization and 
 settlement, though the territory of Montana was organized in 
 1864 and a capital established at Virginia City. The Indian 
 and buffalo roamed the plains, and only the hardy trapper, 
 hunter, or prospector was willing to take the chance of ex- 
 ploration or settlement thereon. 
 
 Attention to the mineral resources of Montana was fir.^t 
 called by a Red River half-breed named Finlay in 1852, who 
 discovered placer gold on what is now Gold Creek, in Powell 
 County. In 1858 the Granville Stewart party worked placer 
 claims successfully near the present town of Pioneer. Fol- 
 lowing this came the discovery of rich ground at Bannack, 
 Alder, and Ophir, and in August, 1864, of Last Chance 
 Gulch, now the location of the city of Helena, which in 1875 
 became the capital of the state, and of several hundred other 
 placers, which produced so well that many millions were 
 added to the gold of the world, and the search for the yellow 
 metal took the place of trapping and fur trading. 
 
 The first quartz mill, a rough affair, made from wagon 
 irons, was set up at Bannack in 1862, and the first smelter 
 
MONTANA 
 
 59 
 
 MAIN STREET, BISMARCK 
 
 BRIDGE OVER THE MISSjURI RIVER AT BISMARCK, rg . u. 
 
60 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 was erected at Ar,2;cnta in 1867. The act admitting Montana 
 as a state passed Congress February 22, 1889, and the admis- 
 sion took place November 8 of the same year. The first rail- 
 road was built into Montana from Ogden, Utah, as a connec- 
 tion of the Union Pacific, in 1881. The Northern Pacific 
 arrived at Helena in 1883; the Great Northern at Kalispell 
 in 1 89 1. The completion of the roads solved the transporta- 
 tion problem and the steamboat traffic became a thing of the 
 past. The completion of the Northern Pacific, the first trans- 
 continental line through Montana, was accomplished amid 
 great rejoicing and all day celebrations at St. Paul and Minne- 
 apolis. The Custer battle was fought on the Little Big Horn 
 in 1876, the Indians were finally placed upon agencies, under 
 government surveillance, and a new era set in. 
 
 INDIAN SCJ-IOOL 
 
 IGNATIUS MISSION, FLATHEAD CO., MONTANA. 
 
 Topography. — Although the name of this state conveys to 
 the mind of the reader that it is mountainous, yet less than 
 one-third is strictly so. The state is divided into two sec- 
 tions, with distinctly difl^erent characteristics, the region of 
 the plains comprising the eastern two-thirds, and the moun- 
 tainous the remaining one-third. The former section is a 
 rolling expanse of prairie, gradually rising from the east to 
 the Rocky Mountains, broken only by the valleys of the rivers 
 and a few isolated groups of mountains. The plains rise from 
 about 2,000 feet elevation at the eastern boundary of the 
 state to about 4,000 feet at the base of the Rocky Mountains. 
 Hayden's survey gives the average altitude of the state as 
 3,900 feet. The United States Bulletin says it has been ascer- 
 tained that forty per cent of the state is under 5,000 feet eleva- 
 tion, twenty-one pel cent from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, fourteen per 
 
MONTANA 
 
 61 
 
 cent from 6,000 to 7,000 feet, nine per cent from 7,000 to 
 8,000 feet and seven per cent over 8,000 feet. This leaves 
 thirty per cent at the low altitude of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet. 
 The prairie portion is embraced in Valley, Dawson, Custer, 
 Rosebud, Yellowstone, Carbon, Sweet Grass, Fergus, and Cho- 
 teau and the larger part of Teton and Cascade counties. The 
 other counties of the state are mountainous, though there are 
 broad valleys and basins between the mountains, aggregating 
 
 THE MATTERHORN, 9,500 FEET HIGH. FLATHEAD COUNTY, MONTANA. 
 
 thousands of square miles of good agricultural land, such as 
 the INlissoula, Flathead, and other valleys lymg between the 
 Main Divide and the Bitter Root and Kootenai ranges of 
 mountains. The extreme southeastern part of Montana has the 
 same characteristics as the bad lands of the Dakotas, being an 
 abrupt, broken, and waterless country. 
 
 The main range of the Rockv ^fountains extends north- 
 west and southeast throughout the state, and from the snow 
 capped peaks flow the great network of rivers which water 
 the entire state. The general elevation of the range at the 
 
62 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 crest is given as 6,500 feet, but there are twenty-two moun- 
 tain peaks with elevations exceeding 10,000 feet, and six of 
 these have altitudes greater than 11,000 feet, the highest being 
 Mount Douglas, 11,300 feet. Some of these are covered with 
 snow throughout the year. Besides the main range there are 
 the Belts, the Highwood, Bear Paw, Crazy, Little Rocky, and 
 Big Snowy mountains to the east, and the Bitter Root, Coeur 
 d'Alene, Kootenai, and Cabinet mountains to the west. 
 
 The two largest and most prominent rivers of the state are 
 the Missouri and the Yellowstone, the former being the union 
 of the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers at Three Forks, 
 in Gallatin County, one of the most southerly counties of the 
 state. After an erratic course this river reaches Choteau, one 
 of the most northerly counties, and then zigzags its way to the 
 eastern boundary of the state, joining with the Milk River in 
 Valley County and the Yellowstone at the boundary, and then 
 proceeds on its way to the Mississippi. The Clark's Fork of 
 the Columbia, or Missoula River, rises on the west side of the 
 Main Divide, runs mainly through Missoula County on its 
 northwest course to Lake Pend d'Oreille and the Pacific 
 waters. In Flathead County, in the extreme northwest part 
 of the state, simply an elbow or bend of the scenic Kootenai 
 is made in this state, as it comes in from the north and passes 
 into Idaho on the west on the same errand as the Missoula. 
 These rivers are all swift running, have steep bluffs, or flow 
 between canyon walls, and create many falls and cascades. 
 The Great Falls of the Missouri, the highest being approxi- 
 mately 100 feet, in Cascade County, and those of the Clark's 
 Fork, are the most notable. 
 
 A narrow strip of the Yellowstone National Park, elsewhere 
 described, extends across the boundary line into Park and 
 Gallatin counties, Montana. 
 
 The Milk River, a very prominent river of the northern 
 part of the state, rises in Teton County, flows northeastward 
 into Canada, and returns to Montana again in Choteau 
 County, where it enters the Missouri. Between the Rocky 
 Mountains on the east and the Bitter Root and other moun- 
 tains on the west lies a great basin, 250 miles long, and 
 averaging about seventy-five miles in width, which has a 
 marked physical difference from the eastern or larger portion 
 of the state. In climatic and agricultural possibilities it is the 
 most favored region of the state. Timber and water are in 
 abundance, the rainfall in most oarts is sufficient, and the cli- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 63 
 
64 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 mate is very moderate. This western region of tlie state is 
 subdivided into smaller valleys ; in the extreme northwest is 
 a basin drained by the Kootenai River ; south of this lies a 
 region tributary to the Missoula River ; then that of the 
 Bitter Root, or St. Mary's River. Though Montana is not a 
 state of lakes, it has many, of which Flathead is the most 
 prominent. It is twenty-seven miles long, has a width of 
 twelve miles, and lies in the famous Flathead country, sur- 
 rounded by rich agricultural lands. The lake and river of the 
 same name are navigable. 
 
 Climate. — Montana is a region having a very dry and 
 bracing atmosphere. The winters are long, and though not 
 continually cold, the thermometer, when in^ sympathy with 
 the Canadian cold waves, indicates a very low temperature. 
 These cold wave periods are infrequent and of short dura- 
 tion. The prevailing wind is from the southwest, is known as 
 the Chinook wind, from the Paciiic, and this moderates the 
 weather and melts the snow, which is usually light outside of 
 the mountainous regions. Cattle and sheep are thus allowed 
 to graze upon the ranges usually throughout the winter with- 
 out extra feed. There are, however, severe winters at times, 
 for which preparation must be made. Such a winter came in 
 1886-7, when more than one-half of the stock died from lack 
 of feed and exposure, and the winter of 1902-3 was unusually 
 severe. Loss of stock is easily prevented, and no stockman 
 now is without at least six weeks' feed. The cold weather is 
 not severely felt in Montana, however, owing to the small 
 percentage of humidity during these months. The blizzard 
 in its good old-day form is not known except in the extreme 
 eastern part of the state. Vast herds of cattle and flocks of 
 sheep are continuously feeding throughout the winter on the 
 buffalo grass, a native grass which cures itself upon the 
 ground, retaining its nutritious qualities, though sere and 
 yellow. This grass is cured by the sun and the wind before 
 the frost comes in the fall, thus retaining its juices. This 
 wonderful grass, the dry air, the light snowfall, which is soon 
 dissipated by the Chinook winds, and the short duration of 
 the excessive cold weather is the secret of the Montana stock- 
 man's success, and is not generally understood by those who 
 live in a more humid atmosphere, where the same conditions 
 do not obtain. 
 
 • The summer is comparatively short and warm, crops grow- 
 ing quickly. The heated air is, however, cooled by the moun- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 65 
 
66 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tain breezes at night, so that the cHmate is very pleasant. 
 The mean annual temperature, at the eastern base of the 
 Rocky Mountains, is from 40° to 50° ; the rainfall is from 
 ten inches in the extreme eastern section to twenty-five inches 
 in the mountain valle3rs. 
 
 Irrigation. — Although there are large areas in those coun- 
 ties designated as prairie counties that may be rated as semi- 
 arid, there are thousands of square miles which receive abun- 
 dant precipitation, particularly in Cascade, Gallatin, Teton, 
 Fergus, and Sweet Grass counties. Most of these lands 
 border on the foothills of the mountain ranges. The other 
 agricultural lands, with the exception of those in the river 
 bottoms, reciuire irrigation, but when placed under water yield 
 in abundance. Approximately forty per cent of the tilled 
 lands of the state are now producing without the aid of arti- 
 ficial watering. Much of Missoula, Ravalli, Beaver Head, 
 Madison, Deer Lodge, Meagher, Cascade, Fergus, Gallatin, 
 and Sweet Grass counties afford opportunities to locate on 
 agricultural lands that can be profitably tilled without the aid 
 of irrigation. There are millions of acres that must be wa- 
 tered, and the drawback in this direction has been the lack of 
 facilities to bring the water in sufficient quantity. Canals on 
 a large scale have been very expensive ; in consequence, as an 
 inducement to the reclamation and settlement of the arid 
 lands. Congress passed the Carey desert land act, giving the 
 different states titles to lands when the state shall have re- 
 claimed them. Montana took advantage of this act, created 
 an irrigation commission and authorized it to issue bonds for 
 the accomplishing of the work, and in this way considerable 
 progress was made. 
 
 Since the enactment of the Carey law much interest has 
 been aroused in the question of irrigation throughout the 
 entire west, and a movement was subsequently started to 
 induce the United States government to build reservoirs and 
 to construct public canals. The government then set aside 
 large forest reserves along the mountain ranges of the arid 
 states, for the double purpose of preventing their early de- 
 nudation and retaining the timber as a source of moisture, 
 especially in liolding the snows. A bill was passed and signed 
 by the President, during the month of June, 1902, which 
 created a reclamation fund from the sale of public lands in 
 Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, Ne- 
 braska, Nevada, New Mexico, North Dakota, Oklahoma, 
 
MONTANA 
 
 67 
 
 Oregon, South Dakota, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming. 
 This reclamation fund, with some reductions, is to be used 
 for the construction and maintenance of irrigation work in 
 the states and territories enumerated. This will no doubt 
 solve the question satisfactorily, so that lands which are not 
 under private canals, or the co-operative sytem of the Carey 
 act, will be irrigated by the national government. (For the 
 Carey act in full, see addenda. ) 
 
 A number of canals have been built in this state and are 
 now distributing water with success. Among the more promi- 
 nent are the Crowe Butte, or Sun River Canal, which is more 
 
 A HERD OF MONTANA CATTLE. 
 
 than TOO miles in length ; the Minnesota & Montana Land 
 Improvement Canal, at Billings, thirty miles in length ; the 
 Dearborn, a co-operative canal under the Carey act, in Lewis 
 and Clark county ; the Belknap Canal, in the Milk River Val- 
 lev, Choteau County ; the Hinsdale Co-operative Canal, in 
 Valley County ; several canals in Cascade County ; the Miles 
 City, or Tongue River Canal, in Custer County, twenty-nine 
 miles long: the Manhattan Canal and the West Gallatin 
 Canal, in Gallatin County ; the canals in Bitter Root Valley 
 and Ravalli County ; and the Conrad Investment Company 
 Canal, in Teton County. Particular attention has been drawn 
 to the northwest part of Montana by the Secretary of State 
 
68 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in his annual report, which approved of what is known as 
 the St. Mary's Lake Diversion Canal, which will turn the 
 waters of St. Mary's River into the Milk River, thereby fur- 
 nishing a greater supply of water with which to irrigate the 
 remaining unirrigated land in that great valle}-. It is be- 
 
 
 ' "■''^^v 
 
 OBSIDIAN (natural GLASS) CLIFF. 
 
 lieved that the very first work undertaken by the government 
 will be a low line canal along the Milk River \'alley, as forty- 
 one townships have been withdrawn from settlement in the 
 neighborhood of Havre. According to the provisions of the 
 new irrigation bill, the reclaimed land can only be secured 
 under the homestead act, and will be subject to the actual cost 
 of irrigation after construction. When the cost has been de- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 69 
 
 temiined, a charge will be made against the land, which will 
 be payable in ten annual payments, without interest. Assum- 
 ing that the cost of reclaiming the land under this low line 
 will be from $io to $15 an acre, the cost per year to the 
 homesteader will be $1 or $1.50 an acre per year for the ten 
 years. This can all be paid in one payment if so desired. 
 Only 160 acres of land can be entered, and those already 
 owning land can purchase water for 160 acres and will be 
 charged the same price as if they located the land. Home- 
 steads mav be taken in lands withdrawn from market before 
 
 DAM AND ELECTRIC POWER PLANT ON THE MISSOURI. 
 
 the ditches are built, the idea being to encourage those who 
 will go upon and improve the land. 
 
 The cost, in co-operative ditches, per acre, is of course 
 gauged by the expense, and many small diverting ditches are 
 made by individuals, where their lands lie along streams of 
 considerable fall, with practically no expense at all. Lands 
 under private ditches cover a wide range of price. 'Those 
 devoted exclusively to horticulture, for instance, in the neigh- 
 borhood of jMissoula, are held at from $150 to $200 per acre, 
 while lands in the eastern part of the state susceptible of 
 producing the cereals, hay, alfalfa, etc., range from $15 up. 
 
 The following table of average values of irrigated and un- 
 irrigated lands in the various counties of the state and the 
 
70 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 cost of the water rights and maintenance of canals is from 
 the Twelfth United States Census Report : 
 
 AVERAGE VALUE PER ACRE OF IRRIGATED AND UNIRRI- 
 GATED FARMS AND IRRIGATED LAND, JUNE i, 1900, 
 WITH AVERAGE COST PER ACRE OF WATER RIGHT 
 AND MAINTENANCE. 
 
 AVERAGE COST 
 AVERAGE VALUE PER ACRE, EXCLUSIVE ^^^ WATER 
 Of CUILDINGS PER ACRE 
 
 COUNTIES ^^.^^. j^^. ,^_.;_ ^„„^^, 
 
 p„7' Rated gated gated ^?\^[ Mamte- 
 
 I-arms i,-j,rms Farms Laud '^'S'" nance 
 
 The State (a) $s.4S $37i $6-i9 $i9-66 $3.12 $0.28 
 
 Beaver Head 7.48 3.3S 7.69 13-24 2.01 0.20 
 
 Broadwater 8.94 5.43 9.27 16.74 449 0-i6 
 
 Carbon 10.06 3.20 11.38 19.69 3.61 0.26 
 
 Cascade 4.83 4.09 5.87 15.04 1.41 0.31 
 
 Choteau 4.30 2.25 5.47 13.S8 1.87 0.27 
 
 Custer 2.98 2.32 4,3s 29.47 9-13 0-79 
 
 Dawson 2.20 2.04 306 12.19 7.19 0.39 
 
 Deer Lodge 7.04 4.79 7.19 20.48 3.85 0.23 
 
 Fergus 4.58 2.16 4.91 12.70 1.60 0.21 
 
 Flathead 11.02 11.58 8.20 32.46 7.70 0.52 
 
 Gallatin 12.50 10.74 -04 31-22 5.88 0.13 
 
 Granite 9.40 5.20 9.75 14-99 S-84 0.27 
 
 Jefferson 9.74 2.59 10.16 22.31 3.91 0.14 
 
 Lewis and Clarke 5.43 5.26 5.48 14.00 1.30 0.20 
 
 Madison 7.95 6.18 8.09 17.70 4.48 0.23 
 
 Meagher 2.78 1.25 2.82 12.49 2.61 0.14 
 
 Missoula 11.26 8.46 12.73 55-91 7.80 0.33 
 
 Park 5.45 4.73 5-54 15-73 3-57 0.33 
 
 Ravalli 16.26 6.44 17.17 37.46 5.92 0.12 
 
 Silver Bow 9.09 5.54 9.58 23.77 4-32 0.17 
 
 Sweet Grass 3.68 2.32 3.84 21.31 3.32 0.68 
 
 Teton 4-8S 422 5.33 14.82 1.03 0.32 
 
 Valley 3.68 3.52 3.91 18.47 2.80 0.15 
 
 Yellowstone 1.91 1.37 2.34 32.15 5.52 0.49 
 
 (a) Exclusive of Indian resei vations. 
 
 It is probably a fair, conservative estimate to place one- 
 fourth of the lands of the entire state as being susceptible of 
 irrigation, and that the average value of all the arable lands 
 in Montana is $2.50 per acre, and it is considered conservative 
 to place the value of the same land after water has been put 
 upon it at from $50 to $70 per acre. This is based upon ex- 
 periences in irrigation in California, Colorado, and other arid 
 regions. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 71 
 
 IN THE STOPE. 
 
 AN UNTIMEERED DRIFT. 
 
72 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Resources. — Mining at present is pre-eminently Montana's 
 foremost industry and most valuable source of wealth. In the 
 early stages, when the placers in the gulches were worked by 
 the adventurous seekers after the yellow metal, gold was 
 enthroned as king. At a later date, when almost pure silver 
 was found and the metal given a coin value, silver succeeded 
 gold upon the throne. But to-day, beyond any doubt, copper 
 has cast these metals both aside and donned the crown, for 
 Montana to-day produces as much copper as all the other 
 states in the Union combined, and one-fourth of the product 
 of the entire world. 
 
 Copper was first discovered near Butte in 1864. The growth 
 of the mining of that metal was slow, owing to the difficulty 
 in smelting it, but the output of mines in the state to-day 
 aggregates a yearly value of $37,000,000 ; the value of silver 
 throughout the state is $20,000,000; gold, $5,000,000; coal, 
 $1,500,000; and lead, $1,000,000. From 1865 to 1898 the 
 value of Montana's mineral output was $217,000,000 in gold; 
 $273,000,000 in silver; and $217,000,000 in copper; and it is 
 stated on good authority that not one-half of one per cent of 
 the mineral acreage containing valuable deposits is at present 
 being worked. Certainly mineral development is yet in its 
 infancy. In addition to the mineral deposits, quite extensive 
 ruby and sapphire beds have been discovered in the western 
 part of Fergus County, and there have lately been reports 
 of the discovery of diamond fields. As it is, the mines have 
 fairly given Montana the title she now claims of the Bonanza 
 State, for there are more bonanza kings in Montana probably 
 than in any country on earth. The Dalys and Clarks of 
 Butte, though having taken out a half billion dollars from ■ 
 the mines of that city, are not the only men in Montana who 
 affix seven and eight figures to the estimate of their wealth. 
 
 The production of gold, silver, copper, and lead for the 
 year 1901 is given officially as $60,387,619.01, to say nothing 
 about coal, which plays a very prominent part. These metals 
 are comparatively well distributed throughout the dififerent 
 counties, every one in the state, with but few exceptions, 
 contributing to the wealth. 
 
 Stock. — In consequence of the semi-arid condition of the 
 land and sparseness of settlement, stockraising has been the 
 " principal pursuit after mining. Very little land has been un- 
 der fence, and the foothills and high ranges will probably 
 never be anything but free range or pasture for stock. The 
 
MONTANA 
 
 73 
 
 
 
 ^^H^ ' 'J 
 
 
 
 m^^^Km 
 
 
 ^^HP^ ; 
 
 
 ^^^m^ ^ 
 
 
 ^Bf'^ 
 
 • ■ 
 
 ■r ^' 
 
 
 ^^H 
 
 
 ^B ^ 
 
 
 ^^^^HEi . ^^i 
 
 
 ^^^^B' -^i 
 
 
 ^■1 ; '% 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 ^■■bil,J.Ji'| 
 
74 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 far-famed buffalo grass covers these plains, and all hay 
 grasses grow luxuriantly. Stock has been allowed to almost 
 take care of itself, so the business has become very extended. 
 Cattle and sheep have lately brought very good prices, and 
 in consequence the business is prosperous. It is estimated 
 that there are now grazing in the state 200,000 head of horses, 
 800,000 cattle, and 3,000,000 sheep; that the total value of 
 live stock on farms and ranges, June i, 1900, was $52,161,833, 
 of which forty-five per cent represented the value of the meat 
 cattle, exclusive of dairy cows, 34.8 per cent sheep, 14.9 per cent 
 horses, and 3.6 per cent dairy cows. Calves are valued at 
 $11.89; steers, one and under two years old, $21.17; two and 
 under three years old, $29.81 ; three and over, $39.99 ; horses, 
 $26.84; lambs, $1.95; sheep (ewes), $3.37; and sheep 
 (rams and wethers), $3.49. The average value of horses is 
 low because the Indian ponies of the Indian reservation are 
 included. These ponies number thousands, and are valued 
 at only from $3 to $10 per head. 
 
 The largest cattle herds are in the northern part of the state, 
 but the greater flocks of sheep are tributary to Billings, Great 
 Falls, and Fort Benton, the three great wool markets of the 
 state and of the United States. The shipments of cattle from 
 Montana to Chicago reached the enormous number of 430,500 
 head in 1895. The prices of range cattle in the Chicago mar- 
 ket have varied from $4.50 per hundredweight to $6 per hun- 
 dredweiglit on the hoof, and in 1902, at the height of the 
 market, a few lots brought above seven cents a pound. Lambs 
 of good cross, fed on alfalfa, have brought as high as $6 per 
 hundredweight. The feeding of sheep is becoming quite gen- 
 eral in the valleys, where irrigation admits of the raising of 
 alfalfa. The Yellowstone Valley has become fampus for 
 alfalfa, the Gallatin for alsike clover, the Bitter Root and Flat- 
 head valleys for red clover, and the Milk River and other 
 nothern valleys for alfalfa. In these irrigated districts sheep 
 breeding and feeding will become a very important industry. 
 Lately there has been quite a movement of southern cattle to 
 Montana for ranging. In 1901 the cattle came largely from 
 Kansas City and Omaha to the northwest, while in 1902 they 
 came mainly from Texas and Arizona, Texas alone shipping 
 99,408. 
 
 Within the past few years considerable attention has been 
 given to the raising of Angora goats, and the business has 
 been a success. The Angora goat has been kept principally 
 
MONTANA 
 
 75 
 
 for its long, valuable mohair, but its skin is also valuable, as 
 well as its flesh and tallow. And further, the goat is a great 
 dairy animal, in Switzerland the finest cheese being made 
 
 from its milk. The Montana climate seems to be particularly 
 adapted to the goat's liking, and the foothills and benches 
 furnish him a natural home. The profits made from some of 
 the herds and the estimate of profits on a nine-year basis are 
 very attractive. 
 
76 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Game. — There is a great variety of wild animals in this 
 state. The moose and Rocky Mountain goat are the most 
 rare. Several species of deer, antelope, elk, and mountain 
 sheep are met with in considerable numbers. Bear, lynx, the 
 mountain lion or panther, wildcat, and wolf abound. Some 
 caribou are found in season, and ducks are plentiful. 
 
 Timber. — There are over 12,000,000 acres of timber lands 
 in the state, not counting the smaller bodies that fringe the 
 streams. The estimate of this standing timber is 550,000,000 
 feet. The timber of merchantable value is largely in the 
 mountainous districts. It would appear that nature appre- 
 ciated the necessity of having an abundance of timber for 
 mining operations, and placed it near the points of consump- 
 tion. Aside from the valleys, all the counties lying along the 
 Rocky Mountains and west of the ranges are heavily tim- 
 bered. A large share of this land near the crest of the ranges 
 has been set aside by the government in the forest reserve. 
 There is a large body of timber along the Kootenai, in Flat- 
 head County, in Missoula County and Ravalli County, at 
 many of which places the manufacturing of lumber is carried 
 on very extensively. The largest of these lumber mills is on 
 Flathead Lake, in Flathead County. 
 
 Railroads. — Two railroads traverse the state from east to 
 west — the Great Northern and the Northern Pacific. The 
 Chicago, Burlington & Ouincy connects with the Northern 
 Pacific at Billings. The Oregon Short Line, a branch of the 
 Union Pacific, reaches Butte. The Montana Central leaves 
 the Great Northern at Havre and traverses the state along 
 the Missouri Valley to Helena and from thence over the 
 mountains to Butte. The Great Falls & Canada leaves the 
 Montana Central at Great Falls and runs northward into 
 Canada. The two lines of the Northern Pacific separate at 
 Logan and join again at Garrison, thus giving Helena, Butte, 
 and Anaconda a through line. All these roads, with various 
 branch lines, give good outlets to all points of the compass. 
 The Montana Railroad connects with the Northern Pacific 
 at Painted Rock. 
 
 COUNTIES. 
 
 Valley County. — This is the most northeasterly county of 
 the state. Its area is 13,486 square miles, and its population 
 by the 1900 census is 4,355. Although some farming is done 
 
MONTANA 
 
 77 
 
 in this county, the principal industry has been stockraising, 
 which will undoubtedly continue in the extreme northeastern 
 and northern parts of the county, on account of its semi-arid 
 condition. The Milk River flows eastward through the cen- 
 tral westward part of the county, joining the Missouri not far 
 east of Glasgow. Its valley is capable of sustaining a large 
 population, as it is estimated that 300 square miles of land 
 can be successfully irrigated. The rolling plains make good 
 grazing, so that combined farming, with stockraising and 
 
 ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER. 
 
 feeding, can he carried on with great profit. The climate is 
 somewhat rigorous but healthy. The soil of the valleys, as 
 throughout most of Montana, is a loam which will produce 
 abundantly. There is still some vacant land left, which can 
 be taken under the different acts. 
 
 The Great Northern Railway traverses the county from 
 east to west. Glasgow, the county seat, is the largest town 
 in the county and the end of the freight division on this rail- 
 road. It is located on the Milk River, has hotels, railway 
 shops, churches and generally good buildings. The surround- 
 ing country is fast settling up. 
 
78 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Hinsdale, a station farther west on the Great Northern, is 
 also on the Milk River, at the mouth of Rock Creek, one of 
 the best streams of the county. At this point an irrigating 
 ditch has been completed, and a good many substantial farm- 
 ers and stockmen have settled there. 
 
 Malta, on the Great Northern Railway and the Milk River, 
 near the western line of the county, is the second largest busi- 
 ness town in the county. This town ships to Chicago on an 
 average per year 20,000 range beef cattle ; the same of mut- 
 ton and sheep, and approximately 1,000,000 pounds of wool. 
 To show the extent of some sheep interests it may be stated 
 that 175,000 sheep were shorn at two plants near this place 
 in 1900. There are other stock shipping and supply places 
 in the county of less size. 
 
 Choteau County is one of the largest in the state, having 
 an area of 14,835 square miles and a population of 10,966. 
 Topographically the county is composed of rolling prairies 
 and valleys, with the Bear Paw Mountains rising near the 
 center, and the Sweet Grass hills in the northwest, the Little 
 Rocky in the southeast, and the Highwood Mountains in the 
 extreme south. This county is well watered by the numerous 
 streams which flow through it. The principal river is the 
 Missouri, the others the Marias, Milk, and Teton. There are 
 wide and fertile valleys along the streams, suitable for irriga- 
 tion. The soil varies, being a sandy loam in the uplands and 
 a clay soil in the bottoms. Irrigation is necessary to the cul- 
 tivation of the land, which produces abundantly ; so far little 
 water has been diverted from the river, but the opportunity 
 presented to the settler is great, for there is almost a surety 
 of the government directing the waters of the St. Mary's 
 River into the Milk River, and building a- ditch which will 
 irrigate the lands now withdrawn from market. The Milk 
 River rises in the Rocky Mountains, runs into Canada, re- 
 turns again to Montana and this county, and then runs west- 
 ward into Valley County before joining the Misouri. This 
 valley comprises a strip 100 miles wide in the United States 
 and 300 miles long. In this vast territory but a small area 
 has been irrigated. The settlers on the irrigated portions are 
 very prosperous. Their canals have been built by co-operative 
 efforts and have proven economical and satisfactory. The re- 
 mainder of the valley is unoccupied. On the co-operative plan 
 it costs about $3 per acre to put the water on the land, which 
 can be paid for from the crop the first year. In co-operative 
 
MONTANA 
 
 79 
 
8U GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 canals $2 per acre of this can be worked out at the rate of $4 
 per day for man and team, so it can be seen that in this locaHty 
 it is not as expensive as where water is brought eighty to one 
 hundred miles through rock tunnels and flumes. The valley is 
 comparatively low in altitude, so that vegetables thrive as well 
 as the grains and grasses. Alfalfa, or lucern, the most valu- 
 able of all forage plants, grows well. This plant yields large 
 crops when it does well, and in some parts of the Northwest 
 several crops are cut in one season. It has a particular value 
 in fattening cattle, sheep, and hogs, producing flesh equal to 
 grain at much less cost. Much gold and silver is found in 
 the mountains. Thousands of horses, cattle, and sheep are 
 feeding on the ranges along the highlands of this river. The 
 colts have no care, and are allowed to run until four years 
 old, when they are broken. If wanted, they may be found 
 200 miles from the point where they were branded. 
 
 Fort Benton is the county seat, located on the Montana 
 Central Railway. This was at one time the head of naviga- 
 tion of the Missouri, and the great distributing point of Mon- 
 tana. To-day it is a great wool market. It has schools, 
 churches, and municipal water-works. 
 
 Havre is the junction of the Great Northern main line and 
 the Montana Central, has railway shops, hotels, stores, and 
 is a live and growing town. 
 
 Chinook is the center of the great sheep country, has an 
 irrigation canal, and does considerable business. 
 
 Fort Assinniboine, the largest military post in the west, 
 located at the foot of Bear Paw Mountain, is garrisoned by 
 colored troops. This point is usually rated as the coldest 
 place in the United States. 
 
 Teton County lies west of Choteau and has an area of 
 7,900 square miles. Except in the western portion, which 
 occupies the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, it is 
 prairie range and agricultural lands. The Blackfeet Indian 
 Reservation covers about one-fourth of the county. Copper 
 has been found in paying quantities in the mountains, and 
 the locality bids fair to become a great camp. 
 
 The county is estimated to contain 150 square miles of till- 
 able land, which has not yet been irrigated, the balance being 
 mountainous and grazing lands. This county is the seat of 
 the Conrad Investment Company Canal, which takes water 
 from the Dupuyer River, or upper branch of the Marias, and 
 reclaims 40,000 acres of land. A large part of this has been 
 
MONTANA 81 
 
 sold to settlers, but there is still some left unsold. Other 
 ditches are being built and a new co-operative company is 
 being organized on the Sun River, so that the opening for 
 settlers in this county is very good. The price of lands, with 
 water, is $15 per acre up. Hay, oats, and barley are con- 
 sidered the best paying crops, for which there is an ample 
 market at Great Falls. The Great Northern Railway crosses 
 the nothern part of the county from east to west, and a 
 branch of the Great Northern, the Great Falls & Canada 
 Railway, passes through the eastern part of the county from 
 north to south, and crosses the main line at Shelby Junction. 
 The elevation of Summit, the crossing over the Main Divide 
 of the Rocky Mountains, is 5,202 feet. 
 
 Choteau, the county seat, is a thriving inland town, on a 
 branch of the Teton River. The Blackfeet Indian Reserva- 
 tion extends from the Canadian line sixty miles to the south 
 and forty miles east and west. There are about 2,000 Indians 
 on the reservation, living on ranches along the streams. They 
 raise many cattle for the Chicago market. 
 
 Chief Mountain, 10,800 feet in height, is the sentinel of 
 the Main Divide at this point, and not far distant to the east 
 are St. Marys lakes, which the government is considering 
 turning into the Milk River. From their scenery these lakes 
 are called the Geneva of America. They are respectively seven 
 and eleven miles in length ; the sides are very abrupt, rising 
 to a considerable height, and are covered with glaciers, from 
 which the water supply is maintained. The hunter will find 
 elk and Rocky Mountain sheep, and trout fishing in this par- 
 ticular locality is good. 
 
 Flathead County lies in the extreme northwesterly part 
 of the state and west of the Rocky Mountains, having an 
 area of 8,700 square miles and a population of 9.375. About 
 one-seventh of the county has been surveyed and appropriated, 
 and there are about 4,000,000 acres left unsurveyed. A large 
 portion of the county is of a hilly and mountainous nature, 
 besides being covered with dense forests of pine, fir, and 
 tamarac principally, and the hidden depths teem with the 
 precious metals. The county contains several fertile vallevs, 
 the agricultural possibilities of which are marvelous. 
 
 The Flathead Valley proper is thirty-five miles in length, 
 
 with an average width of eighteen miles, and its altitude is 
 
 about 3,000 feet. The Chinook winds from the Pacific reach 
 
 this valley with their soothing influences, while the Canadian 
 
 a 
 
82 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 winds are warded off by the Main Divide of the Rocky 
 Mountains. This makes a very moderate cHmate and precipi- 
 tates an abundance of moisture. With an extremely rich soil, 
 created by the wash of tlie mountains for ages, all classes of 
 crops can be raised. This basin, lying, as it does, between 
 the Cabinet Mountains on the west, the Purcell Range on 
 the northwest, and the Main Divide on the east, is climatically 
 a part of the Pacific Northwest, and is of the same character 
 as the more southerly end of the great basin known as the 
 Bitter Root and Missoula valleys. 
 
 There are three classes of agricultural land in this valley — 
 the bench lands, which are sandy, with gravel and clay sub- 
 soil ; the lower bench lands, having a sandy loam, with clay 
 sub-soil ; and the bottom lands, having a black loam of mold, 
 with a clay sub-soil. The very best of hard wheat, equal to 
 that raised in the Red River Valley, and all the other grains, 
 timothy, clover, root crops, and large and small fruits, are 
 raised. The average yield of wheat is claimed to be thirty- 
 one bushels per acre ; oats, sixty-four bushels ; rye, thirty 
 bushels ; potatoes, 257 bushels ; and timothy, two and one- 
 half tons per acre. Root crops grow large and abundantly. 
 The government weather bureau at Kalispell gives the aver- 
 age rainfall at 16.62 inches. Fuel, fencing and lumber, 
 which are great items of expense in prairie countries, are here 
 obtained for the cutting and hauling. Dairy herds, hogs and 
 poultry are a source of profit, as the mining camps offer a 
 steady market. 
 
 In the Tobacco Plains country, along the Tobacco River, 
 about ninety miles northwest of Kalispell, there are several 
 townships of rolling, grazing, open timbered lands. The val- 
 leys of the Kootenai, Fisher, Libby, and Yakt rivers afford 
 fine meadows, open timbered grazing lands, and some farm 
 lands. This county has a great deal of timber, and twenty 
 sawmills are now located here, turning trees into lumber. The 
 output is estimated at 50,000,000 feet per annum ; this is in- 
 creasing every year. The Great Northern Railway has built 
 a line to the head of Flathead Lake, where is situated the 
 largest sawmill in Montana. Here the three-faced railroad 
 ties are manufactured, which, after being dried, are im- 
 mersed in a solution at what is commonly called "the tie- 
 pickling plant." These ties are now being placed in the road- 
 i)ed of the Great Northern Railway, and the claim is made 
 that in this cured condition they will last thirty years in all 
 
MONTANA 
 
 83 
 
84 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 weathers, as against ten years in the natural state. Lately a 
 large lumber plant has been installed on Flathead Lake, with 
 a capacity of 24,000 feet per day. 
 
 The various branches of the Flathead River run into the 
 lake from different directions. The Kootenai River crosses 
 the boundary line, flows fifty miles south, then turns, making 
 an elbow, and flows forty miles westward, where it enters 
 Idaho. It has many tributary streams, along which consider- 
 able mining is done. The scenery is remarkably beautiful. 
 Great measures of lignite coal lie in the northern part of the 
 county, and adjoining these are the oil fields. In the valley 
 proper the government land has all been taken up, but in the 
 outlying districts there is room for many more settlers. There 
 is a wide territory here, as large as two or three of the east- 
 ern states, so there is room for those who are willing to go 
 to the outskirts. 
 
 In the winter the thermometer ranges from 10° to 40°, 
 seldom reaching zero, and in summer from 60° to 85°, seldom 
 going to 90° The scenery is inexpressibly grand, affording 
 the lover of nature the opportunity to revel in its glories. 
 Lake McDonald and Avalanche Basin are easy of access from 
 Belton station. This lake is a jewel and its glacial attrac- 
 tions are not only fine but big game in the vicinity is fairly 
 plentiful. This gorge has been termed by some the "North- 
 ern Yosemite," and the term is well merited. 
 
 Kalispell, the county seat, is a thriving city of 2,520 in- 
 habitants, situated on Flathead River, five miles north of 
 Flathead Lake. It is the end of a division of the Great 
 Northern Railway, and is well built and organized in every 
 way. It has good hotels, eight churches, graded schools, elec- 
 tric lights, and is quite metropolitan. Other towns in the 
 county are Columbia Falls, the seat of the State Soldiers' 
 Home ; Libby, Troy, Sylvanite, Dayton, Holt, and Tobacco. 
 
 Dawson County is a large prairie county, lying south of 
 Valley County, in the eastern part of the state, and has an 
 area of 13,194 square miles, with a population of 2,447. The 
 entire country is adapted to and utilized for stockraising. The 
 valleys lie lower than the rest of Montana to the west, and 
 consequently have a higher temperature ; they are well wa- 
 tered, and. with irrigation, will produce well. Here combined 
 stockraising and farming is destined to become general in the 
 future. The Great Northern skirts the northern part of the 
 county, and the Northern Pacific comes in from the east. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 85 
 
 reaches the Yellowstone River at Glendive, and follows that 
 stream to the southern border. 
 
 Glendive, the county seat, a city of 1,200, is very pictur- 
 esquely situated, and has the Northern Pacific division head- 
 quarters, roundhouse, etc. It is a city of pastoral pursuits, 
 but of considerable refinement. 
 
 Fergus County. — This county lies directly to the west of 
 Dawson County, is very nearly in the center of the state, has 
 an area of 6,762 square miles, and a population, in 1900, of 
 6,937. It lies largely between the Musselshell and the Mis- 
 
 VALLEY OF YELLOWSTONE RIVER, JUST WEST OF GLENDIVE. 
 
 souri rivers; its length north and south is no miles, east and 
 west 125 miles. The county has varied resources, with moun- 
 tains, bench and valley lands, and all the dilTerent classes of 
 soils. An eminence rises in the Big Snowy Mountains, from 
 which many clear and swift running streams radiate in all 
 directions. The mountains are producing ores of wonder- 
 ful richness, and there are many mining properties that will 
 become producers as soon as railway facilities are afforded. 
 An excellent quality of coal is found at various places. 
 
 To-day the traveler who visits Lewiston, in the Judith 
 Basin, must travel by stage from Great Falls, 120 miles, or 
 
86 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sixty miles from Harlowton, the end of the Montana Rail- 
 way. It is believed that this road will be extended at once 
 to Lewiston. On the extreme western border of the county 
 are sapphire mines, the stones of which are said to rival those 
 from the Orient. The sapphires are mined much as is placer 
 gold. Tiffany & Co., of New York, have so far taken the 
 entire product. It is known that the sapphire product of the 
 United States is approximately valued at $400,000, and that 
 the larger portion of this comes from Fergus County. 
 
 The first industry in the county was cattle raising, which, 
 hdwever, now is secondary to sheep and wool growings in 
 which it is claimed this county ranks first in the United 
 States, and that none other closely approaches it in the num- 
 ber of sheep ranged, the number of sheep and pounds of wool 
 sold, and the value of the product. In the spring of 1902 
 there were 685,408 sheep in this county, and it is said that 
 the increase for that year averaged eighty-five per cent, bring- 
 ing the total in the fall to upwards of a million. The valuation 
 placed on those assessed in that spring was $1,560,488. The 
 number engaged in this industry is probably 300 ; one firm owns 
 38,000 head ; another, 29,000 ; another, 30,000 ; another, 25,- 
 000. One stock grower has 9,000 head of cattle, and the ma- 
 jority of cattle owners have from 4,000 to 8,000 head. 
 
 In 1902 there were shorn and shipped to the Great Falls 
 and Billings wool markets 5,000,000 pounds of wool, which 
 sold at an average of about fifteen cents per pound, and brought 
 about $750,000. During the fall months of the same year 
 large sheep sales were of weekly occurrence, and well in- 
 formed bankers estimate the amount received from such sales 
 to have been $600,000 within four months. These two items 
 bring the revenue from the sheep industry within that year 
 to $1,350,000, nearly every dollar of which, it is claimed, has 
 been reinvested within the county. With the extension of 
 the Montana Railroad to Lewiston there is little doubt of that 
 city being made a wool market, as the wool is of fine qualitv, 
 and there are large amounts shorn at other points near by. 
 A woolen mill is very much desired at this place, and it cer- 
 tainly should be successful, considering the ample water power 
 obtainable and the amount of raw product to be purchased. 
 The cattle raisers have had their measure of prosperity. The 
 last assessment in the county gave the number of cattle at 
 48,647 head, valued at $1,120,043. ^^o cattle man knows 
 within hundreds how many cattle he possesses, however, for 
 
MONTANA 
 
 87 
 
 the only means is the record of calves branded and beef sold. 
 An estimate of the number of cattle shipped in 1902 is 6,000 
 head, and at an average price of $50 per head the sales 
 amounted to $300,000. In addition to the shipments, the home 
 market consumes the value of $30,000. 
 
 This county has considerable rainfall, so that general crops 
 do well. The oat crop averaged in 1902 sixty-five bushels per 
 acre, and many wheat fields yielded fifty bushels per acre. 
 
 A FLOCK OF MONTANA SHEEP. 
 
 There is considerable land left in this county ; the .total acre- 
 age of the Judith district in December, 1902, is given as over 
 8,000,000 acres, of which over 3,000,000 are surveyed and 
 unappropriated, and 3,000,000 unsurveyed and unappropri- 
 ated. 
 
 Lewiston, the county seat, is the largest town in the state, 
 not on a railroad. Its population is 1,200, it has several 
 churches, good hotels, two newspapers, two banks, a free 
 library, high school, water-works, electric light plant, and 
 
88 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 flour mills. The combined deposits in the two banks exceed 
 $1,000,000, and there was hauled to the stores by teams 13,- 
 000,000 pounds of freight. There are other towns along the 
 stage route, but of smaller size. 
 
 This county, lying between the two great railroads, has not 
 received its full quota of emigration, and therefore affords 
 the homeseeker a much better opportunity to accjuire public 
 lands than some of the covmties bordering the railroads. 
 
 Cascade County lies west of Fergus County, has an area 
 of 3,400 square miles, is largely a mineral county, and boasts 
 of a population of 25,777, being the second county in the state. 
 Its surface is made up of mountains, bench lands, and valleys, 
 with soil about the same as in the other prairie counties pre- 
 viously mentioned. The Montana Central Railway runs diag- 
 onally northeast and southwest, following the Missouri River 
 through the county. Other principal streams are the Sun, 
 Smith, Belt, and Highwood, all of which reach the Missouri 
 near Great Falls. The altitude of the Missouri River below 
 the lowest falls is 2,800 feet, while the altitude of its highest 
 town is 5,600 feet. From any high point five ranges of moun- 
 tains can be seen, all more or less heavily timbered with ever- 
 greens. These mountains afford clear, short rivers, a cool 
 summer climate, and an ample rainfall on most of the bench 
 lands. The annual rainfall on the table lands between the 
 Missouri River and the base of the Belt Mountains is from 
 eighteen to twenty inches. The United States Weather Bureau 
 gives the rainfall at Great Falls, from April to August, inclus- 
 ive, for the past five years, at from 6.75 inches to 11. 19 inches. 
 The table lands are being farmed very successfully, the aver- 
 age of the wheat crop being estimated at twenty bushels per 
 acre, and it is claimed that when the land is summer fallowed 
 and plowed deep, that the yield is thirty-five bushels and 
 the grade No. i hard. A single crop of alfalfa is grown here 
 without irrigation. Horticulture is in an experimental stage. 
 There are good openings in this county for dairying, and a 
 good market for all the products. 
 
 The resources of the county consist of the great water 
 power afforded by the Falls of the Missouri, which is of great 
 importance, and coal, iron, and the precious metals, in addi- 
 tion to the agricultural products. The Falls include a series of 
 vertical descents and cascades, aggregating in height 520 
 feet, which, it is conservatively estimated, will yield 340,000 
 horse-power at an average low stage of the river. St. An- 
 
JIONTANA 
 
 89 
 
90 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 thony Falls, at Minneapolis, furnish 35,000 horse-power; 
 Lowell, Mass., ii,ooo, and Paterson, N. J., only 2,150. These 
 falls are distributed over a distance of ten miles, and are 
 known individualy as the Rainbow, Black Eagle, Crooked, 
 and Colters Falls, together with intervening rapids. En- 
 gineers have harnessed Black Eagle Falls without destroying 
 its picturesqueness. Above it on the hillside rises, tier upon 
 tier, the smelter of the Boston & Montana Copper Company ; 
 a little farther down are the Rainbow Falls, the most beauti- 
 ful of all the cataracts. The main falls have a descent of 
 ninety-two feet. One of the most curious sights in this re- 
 gion is the Giant Spring. This is really a river, 200 feet wide 
 and five feet deep, bursting out of the earth, spreading out 
 into a fan-shaped stream and foaming over the rocks. This 
 volume neither increases nor diminishes winter or summer. 
 The power utilized from Black Eagle Falls is used in the 
 treatment of minerals, the making of paper pulp, manufacture 
 of paper, aluminum, plate glass, flour, etc. 
 
 Great Falls is now and always has been a city since the 
 railroad was built to its site. It is regularly laid out on the 
 east bank of the river. It has an excellent school system, an 
 advanced park system, a public library, four banks, two ex- 
 cellent newspapers — a morning and evening daily — and sev- 
 eral churches. The development of the Falls began about 
 twelve years ago, and there are now employed fully 6,000 
 men in the various industries. The country from every side 
 is tributary to Great Falls, and the resources are so vast that 
 a great city is assured. It grew from nothing in 1885 to 14,- 
 758 in 1900, and to-day probably has a population of 17,000. 
 
 Iron ores are closely associated with the coal measures of 
 this county, and it is said that much interest has been elicited 
 lately in these deposits, and there is good reason to believe 
 that Great Falls before long will have an iron and steel plant 
 added to her industries. 
 
 Niehart, in the Belt Mountains, is the most prominent sil- 
 ver camp in Montana. Belt, Stockett and Sand Coulee are 
 bituminous coal mining towns, the former being controlled by 
 the Amalgamated Copper Company, where they have a large 
 mining and coking plant, from which they ship coal and coke 
 for use at Anaconda. The output daily is from 100 to 150 
 tons of coke, and from 1,500 to 2,500 tons of coal. 
 
 Lewis and Clark County is a long and comparatively 
 narrow county bordering the east side of the Main Divide of 
 
MONTANA 
 
 91 
 
92 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the Rocky Mountains. Covering, as it does, the peaks of the 
 range, it is principally mountainous, and in consequence is the 
 most prolific producer of the precious metals in the state. Its 
 production of gold, silver, and lead in 1900 was $1,679,796.89. 
 The gold-bearing belt, according to the 1900 report of the 
 State Bureau of Agriculture, Labor, and Industry, extends 
 "from its southeastern corner to the south of the city of Hel- 
 ena, and thence in a wide semi-circle through Marysville and 
 Broadwater to the northwest corner of the county. The belt, 
 or 'mother lode,' as it might be called, is several miles in 
 width, and everywhere that systematic development has been 
 undertaken mines of value have resulted." Good paying 
 mines are on every hand, and in the beds and benches of all 
 
 THE BEGINNING OF HELENA. 
 
 the creeks that flow through the county placer gold has been 
 found in quantity, the annual product of these aggregating a 
 large sum. Several properties are equipped witli modem 
 mills and cyanide plants, and the owners are getting rich re- 
 turns for the capital invested. There is no section of the 
 state which affords the mining investor or the prospector such 
 excellent opportunities, for this county is but little beyond the 
 prospecting stage. 
 
 The county is well watered by the Missouri River and other 
 streams running into it from the mountains on the east and 
 west sides. These streams furnish water for irrigating canals 
 and water power for electrical purposes. 
 
 The county has a large area of farmine land, which is al- 
 ready occupied by a thrifty class of farmers. The northern 
 part of the county is mainly taken up by cattle and sheep 
 
MONTAN A 
 
 93 
 
 ranches. The agricultural lands can be purchased at a very 
 reasonable figure from those who have large holdings, and 
 good profits may be made from smaller and more intensively 
 cultivated fields. 
 
 The Dearborn Canal, the first co-operative irrigating canal 
 built under the Carey act and the State Arid Land Commis- 
 sion, is located in this county, about fifty miles north of Hel- 
 ena. The Dearborn Valley comprises an area of 782 square 
 miles, 75,000 acres of which are irrigable. The canal system 
 comprises 100 miles of main waterway, with several hundred 
 
 THE OLD AND THE NEW HELENA. 
 
 miles of laterals, and the reservoir system covers about 3,000 
 acres, at an average depth of twenty feet. The main canal 
 is thirty-eight feet wide and five feet deep, with an average 
 grade of 3.1 feet to the mile. The side canals are from seven 
 to sixteen feet in width. The land along this grand artery 
 is now being sold to actual settlers, not to exceed 160 acres to 
 one person. The state requires that the land be sold for the 
 cost of irrigating it, which cost is limited by law to $12.50 per 
 acre, with twenty per cent additional, which makes the total cost 
 $15 per acre. It is sold for one-tenth cash down and the bal- 
 ance in nine equal annual payments, with interest at six per 
 
94 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 cent. The valley soil is a rich, sandy loam, in which the 
 growth of vegetation is luxuriant. Those having limited 
 means and desiring homes can accjuire them here, with the 
 assurance of making farming a success from the start. The 
 nearest station to the center of operation is Craig, on the 
 Great Northern Railway. (For United States land laws, Mon- 
 tana state co-operative laws, and the location of land offices 
 throughout the Northwest, see addenda of this book.) 
 
 The course of the streams and the trend of the mountains 
 make this county naturally a grand highway from east to 
 west, which route is traversed by the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 way, the route of the Great Northern Railway being from 
 north to south. 
 
 Helena, the county seat and capital of the imperial state 
 of Montana, is located at the junction of the Northern Pacific 
 and the Great Northern railways. Its population was given in 
 1900 as 10,772, but is in all probability to-day more than 
 15,000. 
 
 A glamor of romance surrounds this golden city, the center 
 of one of the richest mineralized quartz mining sections in the 
 world. Its main street marks the identical spot made famous 
 by the extraction of millions of dollars in placer gold from 
 the gravel of what was known as Last Chance Gulch. A 
 handful of prospectors had wandered from gulch to gulch 
 during the summer of 1864, panning without success, until 
 they finally staked their last chance in this gulch before re- 
 turning to the south. And lo ! the first pan of gravel washed 
 out twenty dollars ! Claims were immediately staked, the 
 news rapidly spread, and Helena became a reality. From 200 
 square feet, on the ground now occupied by the Great North- 
 ern depot, the owners took out $330,000, and it is said they 
 did not go down to bedrock. The output of this gulch and 
 those contiguous was $80,000,000. The mines about Helena 
 are richly paying their owners, and a multitude of legitimate 
 opportunities are still awaiting capital and enterprise. 
 
 As a place for business Helena offers unusual advantages. 
 Notwithstanding the fact that the city vi^as twice wiped out 
 of existence by fire, in 1869 and again in 1872, and suffered 
 a third time from a disastrous conflagration in 1874, its cit- 
 izens survived these ordeals, the town was rebuilt on a greatly 
 improved plan, and Main street, formerly the celebrated gulch 
 itself, has become a busv thoroughfare. 
 
 Powerful dams have been constructed on the nearby Mis- 
 
MONTANA 95 
 
 souri River, which furnish electric power for manufacturing 
 and mining operations in Helena and vicinity. Although 
 straight manufacturing is in its infancy (there being perhaps 
 500 men employed in this line), a good many wares are made 
 and sold to different parts of the state. A million dollar cus- 
 tom smelter, which runs to its full capacity on ore from dif- 
 ferent localities, is located in the center of a prolific dry ore 
 district^ and draws its wet ores from the Coeur d'Alene mines. 
 With cheap fuel from the north and east it has every prospect 
 for success. In early times Helena was a distributing center 
 
 VIEW OF PLACER ROCK DUMPS IN LAST CHANCE GULCII, IN I9OI. 
 
 for goods to miners, and to-day it is a railroad and distribut- 
 ing center on much broader lines. 
 
 The Broadwater Natatorium, at the Hot Springs, is mag- 
 nificently appointed, and the surrounding grounds are art 
 landscapes. The bathing pool is 350 feet in length by 150 
 feet in width, and is supplied with natural hot water at a 
 temperature of 170°, with the cold water necessarv to temper 
 it. Fort Harrison, one of the newest and best equipped 
 United States army posts, and the Montana University are 
 located here. 
 
 The altitude of Helena is 4,256 feet, and the air is very dry 
 and invigorating. The water supply is the best and the cli- 
 
96 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 mate indisputabl)' healthy. The city has many handsome 
 business buildings, attractive residences, the best of hotel ac- 
 commodations, public institutions, an adequate school system, 
 three metropolitan daily newspapers, electric lights and other 
 municipal improvements, and all the advantages that go to 
 make a modern, up-to-date city. 
 
 The state capitol is located in the eastern part of the citv 
 on a plat of ground donated to the state. The grounds cover 
 ten acres between Sixth, Lockey, Robert and Montana ave- 
 nues. The building is in the Grecian Ionic style of architec- 
 ture, Columbus sandstone being used in its construction. It 
 is 250 feet in length by 130 feet in depth. From the center 
 of the building and crowning the whole rises the dome, which 
 
 STREET SCENE IN HELENA. 
 
 is covered with copper and crowned by a statue of Liberty. 
 The cost of the capitol and grounds was approximately 
 $530,000. 
 
 Powell County lies west of Lewis and Clark County and 
 the Main Divide. This county is also a long, narrow tract, 
 bordering on the mountains, of irregular shape, running in a 
 northerly and southerly direction. In the early days this 
 county was a part of Deer Lodge County, and was noted for 
 its gold placers, which were very numerous and rich. Gold 
 Creek being the first place where gold was discovered. Its 
 area, estimated, is approximately 3,200 square miles. Quite 
 
MONTANA 
 
 9T 
 
 large tracts of arable lands lie in the big Blackfoot and other 
 valleys. Its elevation being about 4,500 feet, only the hardier 
 crops are raised, but these have a ready sale at the cities of 
 Butte and Anaconda, which are good markets for agricultural 
 products. Therefore these valleys are well settled. There is 
 abundance of water for irrigation purposes. Deer Lodge is 
 the county seat, has a population of 1,324, and is the site of 
 the state penitentiary. 
 
 One line of the Northern Pacific Railway crosses the county 
 from east to west, and another line comes up from the south, 
 meeting the main line at Garrison and the Little Blackfoot 
 Valley. These give ample railway transportation in the south- 
 
 PIONEER, NEAR WlllClt FIRST GOLD WAS DISCOVERED. 
 
 ern part of the county. The former passes through the tunnel 
 to the west of Helena after ascending the mountains in a 
 series of long whiplash curves. 
 
 Granite County lies west of Powell and Deer Lodge 
 counties. It is a very broken country, with quite large min- 
 ing interests, to which the people devote themselves in place 
 of farming. Phillipsburg is the county seat, and has a popu- 
 lation of 2,000. A branch of the Northern Pacific Railway 
 reaches Phillipsburg from Drummond, which gives railway 
 communication. The pay-roll of the various mining compa- 
 nies in this county is very large. 
 
 MissouL.v County lies south of Flathead County, on the 
 extreme western border of the state, extending to the top of 
 the Bitter Root and Coeur d'Alene mountains. It has an 
 
98 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 area of 7,150 square miles and a population of 13,964. The 
 Rattlesnake, Blackfoot. Bitter Root and several minor streams 
 go to make up the Missoula River, or Clark's Fork of the 
 Columbia, which traverses the county its entire length in a 
 northwesterly direction, affording a wide expanse of agri- 
 cultural lands and a pathway for the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 road, as well as a branch line running to Wallace, Idaho. Tlie 
 mountains stand out in bold relief, and the valleys and rivers 
 are picturesque, which make the scenery very romantic. The 
 Flathead Reservation occupies a large and well watered tract 
 of land, partially in this county. Here the first school was 
 
 ON THE BITTER ROOT, NEAR MISSOULA. 
 
 established by the Catholic Missionary De Smet. This is now 
 the Catholic Mission of St. Ignatius. 
 
 While grain, hay, and stockraising are carried on to a con- 
 siderable extent in these valleys, fruit raising, owing to the 
 moderately tempered climate, is more widely entered into. 
 Peaches, apples, pears, grapes, and prunes are grown suc- 
 cessfully. Orcharding in all western Montana has proved a 
 profitable industry, the fruit being large, sound, and finely 
 flavored. In consequence lands have advanced very rapidly 
 in price, and irrigation being required, the private holdings 
 have sold, on irrigation ditches, from $150 to $200 per acre, 
 and set out to trees and cared for for a term of years, $300 per 
 acre. These prices may seem extravagant, but it is claimed 
 
MONTANA 99 
 
 the orchards will often make lOO per cent for the owner in a 
 year after they come into bearing. 
 
 There is some very fine stock in this county, notably the 
 Jersey herd of Dr. Mills at Lola, twelve miles south of Mis- 
 soula. They are registered full bloods of very high grade. 
 
 At Bonner is a large sawmill, the lumber business being 
 quite extensive, and there are several other sawmills in the 
 county. 
 
 Missoula, the county seat, is located at the mouth of Hell 
 Gate and Rattlesnake rivers. It has a population of 4,329. 
 Surrounding this city are manv beautiful views of mountains 
 and valleys, the very beauty spots of earth. The city has ele- 
 gant brick blocks, with all modern improvements, good hotels, 
 
 MISSOULA. 
 
 churches, the state university, and an attractiveness found in 
 but few places in the west. 
 
 Ravalli County is another of those favored localities oc- 
 cupying a position between the Main Divide and the Bitter 
 Root mountains. It encompasses the Bitter Root Valley, 
 which is considered the very paradise of the state. This val- 
 ley runs in a northerly and southerly direction a distance of 
 seventy-five miles, and has an average width of about twelve 
 miles. Mountains of great height, with their forests and 
 snows, girdle the green fields and orchards of the valley in 
 such near proximity that the whole seems as one great park. 
 Along the line of the valley hot springs are found in abun- 
 dance, mingled with a myriad of lakes, cold as ice and clear 
 as crystal, and abounding in trout. In this valley at Hamilton 
 
10.0 GUiDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the late Marcus Daly located his great stock farm, where were 
 bred and reared the best blooded and fastest horses of the 
 United States. Since Mr. Daly's death these thoroughbreds 
 have been sold and the farm is being transformed into one 
 great orchard, which now has 70,000 fruit bearing trees. The 
 magnitude of this farm may be better understood when it is 
 known that its length is sixteen miles, that there are hun- 
 dreds of miles of drives traversing it, that of this magnifi- 
 cent domain 50,000 acres are under fence, and 22,000 acres 
 under cultivation, making it perhaps the largest actually cul- 
 tivated farm in the world. Everything is well kept and auto- 
 matic gates open at every turn. The Dal)' summer residence, 
 the most beautiful country place in the west to-day, is located 
 here. 
 
 Although lumbering is carried on to a large extent and the 
 mineral resources of the mountains are considerable, the repu- 
 tation of the valley is based upon its scenery and its fruit. 
 The climate is temperate, since the valley is well sheltered, 
 and frequent showers fall during the months of May and 
 June. Where a gravel sub-soil exists only is irrigation re- 
 quired, but the conditions are such that each farmer constructs 
 his own ditch from one of the numerous streams. The reser- 
 voir of snow in the near mountains furnishes ample water for 
 all needs. Dairying is very profitable and there is room for 
 many dairies on an extended scale, with the very best of at- 
 tendant conditions. 
 
 It is estimated that there are 13,500 acres of land in Mon- 
 tana now devoted to fruit raising, and of this 6,000 acres, or 
 nearly one-half, are in the Bitter Root Valley. 
 
 Large tracts of timber cover the mountain sides, and the 
 lumber business affords employment to more than 500 men. 
 At Hamilton the Anaconda Copper Company has a very large 
 lumber manufacturing and mercantile business. The city has 
 a population of 2,000, and is quite a summer resort, with an 
 excellent hotel. Stevensville is the oldest town in western 
 Montana, and is known as the site of the first wheat field. St. 
 Mary's Mission, the burial place of Father Ravalli, is in a 
 good state of preservation. 
 
 The Bitter Root branch of the Northern Pacific extends 
 from Missoula as far up the valley as Grantsdale, and from 
 there on good mountain roads have been constructed at con- 
 siderable expense, which gives the entire county good trans- 
 portation. 
 
MONTANA 101 
 
 Meagher County lies south of Cascade and Fergus coun- 
 ties, has an area of 2,500 square miles and a population of 
 2,526. This is another one of the great stock producing coun- 
 ties, having a remarkably diversified area, covering the upper 
 valleys of the Smith and IMusselshell rivers, between the Big 
 and Little Belt mountains. There is no finer or more pro- 
 ductive region in all the state than these valleys, which are 
 well settled, but, like all the west, have room for more. 
 
 The mountains carry much mineral and it is confidently 
 expected that this county will not only rival other great min- 
 ing centers, but produce all the iron needed for use by any 
 extensive steel plant. The Montana Railroad is built to Har- 
 lowton, but White Sulphur Springs, the county seat and dis- 
 
 pwf?*^*^'"'-*^«^.«,^,,. 
 
 
 
 ':^'i'^'{ . 
 
 
 - ,--."■' 
 
 
 ,#, 
 
 
 
 
 HhHB 
 
 ROSS HOLE. 
 
 tributing point for the county, is an inland town, being dis- 
 tant twenty miles by stage from Dorsey. 
 
 Broadwater County lies immediately west of Meagher 
 County, has a population of 2,641, and an area of 975 scjuare 
 miles. It covers the valley of the Missouri River from the 
 vicinity of the confluence of its three forks northward to with- 
 in a few miles of Helena, which is the route traversed by the 
 Northern Pacific Railway. There are several private water 
 ditches in this county, affording ample water for farming pur- 
 poses, and the lands under these ditches are being sold for 
 from $25 up. There is, however, ample opportunity for more 
 extended irrigation, which can be accomplished under the 
 various modes heretofore explained. The crops of this county 
 are very bountiful and the climate is fairlv mild. 
 
 Townsend, the county seat, located on the Northern Pa- 
 cific Railway, has a population of 900. From the town of 
 
102 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Lombard the Montana Central Railway is built up Canyon 
 Creek to Harlowton, as before mentioned. 
 
 Jefferson County lies west of Broadwater, has an area 
 of i,6oo square miles and a population of 5,330. The county 
 is very mountainous and the valleys of the Jefferson, Prickly 
 Pear and Boulder are very narrow. Hay, grain and vege- 
 tables are raised, and sold in the local market. It is a first 
 class mineral county, and Prickly Pear Gulch was one of the 
 scenes of the early placer diggings. Much of the ores carry 
 zinc and it is expected a smelter will be built to reduce this 
 class of ores, which will add very largely to the production. 
 The prospector or the small farmer will find the conditions 
 of this county offering him excellent openings. Boulder, the 
 county seat, has a population of 2,200, and is located on the 
 Great Northern, which traverses the county between Butte 
 and Helena, and a branch line of the Northern Pacific ex- 
 tends to Elkhorn. 
 
 Silver Bow County and Butte. — This county lies just 
 west of the Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains, is the 
 source of the headwaters of Clark's Fork of the Columbia, 
 and is therefore a part of the Oregon country rather than 
 of the Missouri or Mississippi country. Considerable farm- 
 ing is done, but the mining industry is so tremendous as to 
 entirely overshadow every other interest. The extensive cop- 
 per mines of Butte are the wonder of the age, the mines pro- 
 ducing annually in copper, gold and silver upwards of $50,- 
 000,000, and in copper alone one-fourth of the output of 
 the world. Farming, railway operations, commercial inter- 
 ests, are all in some way connected with these mines. The 
 Great Northern Railway transports the crude ore from one 
 group of mines at Butte to the smelter at Great Falls and 
 brings in return coal and coke from the Anaconda Company's 
 plant in Cascade County. The Butte, Anaconda & Pacific 
 Railroad transports the crude ore from another group of 
 mines in Butte to the great Washoe smelter and refinery at 
 Anaconda. The Northern Pacific Railroad contributes in 
 various ways to the prosecution of mining and smelting, and 
 now runs its Pacific Coast Limited and St. Louis Burlington 
 Express via Butte, thus dividing with Helena the honors of 
 having a main line. The Union Pacific, over the Oregon 
 Short Line, at one time the only railway outlet, contributes 
 its full share of transportation.. The stores, the smaller man- 
 ufactories, and all the arteries of trade are either adjuncts to, 
 
MONTANA 103 
 
 or in some way connected with, the business of mining, so 
 that nothing can be said about the county which does not in- 
 clude Butte and a history of its mines, for every enterprise 
 centers in that famous hill comprising the towns of Walker- 
 ville, Centerville, Meaderville, and Butte, all known to be 
 world as the city of Butte, "The Greatest Copper Camp on 
 Earth." 
 
 The United States Census of 1900 gives the population of 
 the county as 47,635, and the population of Butte as 30,470, 
 and since that time the city especially has maintained a rapid 
 growth. 
 
 Butte is very cosmopolitan, for it is a great working bee- 
 hive of people of varied interests and nationalities. It is sub- 
 stantially built, largely upon a hillside, and is very striking 
 in some parts, for business blocks and tailing dumps from 
 the mines are in close proximity. The cultured man here 
 touches shoulders with the miner, and the silk tile and the 
 sombrero walk the streets together, one signalizing the story 
 of financial success, the other the free life of the mountains. 
 The arts of Europe are cultivated in palatial homes, while 
 western manners are assumed upon the street. Money has 
 been made by millions, as it only could have been made in the 
 early days, and it is now being diverted into other and more 
 modernized channels. 
 
 The real history of Butte begins with the gold placer dig- 
 gings of the '50's, when many millions were taken out at 
 Silver Bow, Rocker, and Butte camps ; when the toilers of 
 those days lived in tents and brush shanties adjoining their 
 labors. This may be term^ed the first epoch in its history. 
 
 A decline in mining activity began in 1870 and lasted until 
 1874, when the ores at Butte were found to have a value in 
 silver^ and a mode of treatment was discovered. From this 
 time until 1882 gold and silver were the only ores looked for. 
 In 1880 the camp had reached a population of 3,000. During 
 this year the Utah & Northern, a narrow gauge railroad, now 
 the Oregon Short Line, a broad gauge railroad, reached Butte 
 and aided very materially the progress of the city. This 
 may be termed the second epoch. 
 
 The third and greatest epoch came in 1882. This year 
 recorded the discovery of the great body of copper ore in the 
 Anaconda mine. Its effect was revolutionary and it was this 
 event which finally established the camp on an enduring basis. 
 Development proceeded on every hand, and each succeeding 
 
104 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 strike added fuel to the fire until the fact had developed that 
 the hill was a veritable mountain of copper. The camp was 
 still a great gold and silver producer, but the production of 
 copper increased two hundred and fifty fold in 1883, and 
 
 since that year the march of that metal has been in giant 
 strides to its present greatness and enthronement as king. 
 
 The estimate of the production of all the mines to the pres- 
 ent is $600,000,000 in value, which places this camp second 
 only to that of Johannesburg, in Africa, which has an an- 
 nual production in gold of $100,000,000. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 105 
 
 The assessed valuation of the taxable property m Butte 
 to-da_v is very close to $70,000,000, so that, taking the 1900 
 census as a basis, there would be nearly $2,500 to every man, 
 woman and child in the city. Handsome residences have been 
 
 built during the past few years, an excellent street car sys- 
 tem has been established, as well as a perfect sewerage sys- 
 tem ; and water has also been brought over the mountains 
 at great expense, thus creating sanitary features which are 
 unequalled by any other city in the west. Excellent hotels 
 have taken the place of earlier structures and the best of ac- 
 
106 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 commodation is assured to the traveler, while the citizens 
 of Butte will be found to be progressive and hospitable. The 
 Columbia Gardens lie just outside the city and are a very 
 attractive pleasure resort, especially during the summer 
 months. The city boasts of seven public libraries, thirteen 
 newspapers — three of which are dailies and as enterprising 
 as any in the United States — twenty-seven churches, twenty- 
 one public and eight private schools, a State School of Mines, 
 three opera houses, and more than one hundred mines and 
 four smelters in active operation, which annually are pro- 
 ducing nearly $60,000,000 and distributing to the laboring 
 population nearly $20,000,000. 
 
 "Within an area of 1,000 acres," says Ex-Governor Rick- 
 ards, "there are being produced, in round numbers, 10,000 
 tons of ore daily, which, if hauled in one train, would be two 
 and one-half miles in length, and the annual output would 
 load a train 800 miles in length, or one reaching from Chi- 
 cago to Philadelphia. There are consumed in the smelters of 
 Butte and Anaconda annually 2,000,000 tons of coal ; there 
 are used annually in the mines 100,000,000 feet of sawed tim- 
 ber, and 1,500,000,000 feet of sawed lumber, this not taking 
 into account the round timber used for lagging. It has been 
 computed that the sawed lumber would build 75,000 seven- 
 room houses, which would require 540 acres for their sites." 
 
 Butte is essentially a dual city — a city above ground, with 
 business streets and a busy population, and a city below 
 ground, from where the blasts are heard, tearing apart its 
 internal structure. Mule cars are wending their way through 
 the tunnels of the lower city ; at the same time the electric 
 cars are encircling the city above. The mines have been 
 worked to a depth of 1,800 to 2,200 feet, and the estimate of 
 prominent geologists is made that they will hold out for more 
 than a hundred years. 
 
 A singular scene meets the eye of every visitor to the city, 
 for verdure, either on lawn or tree, is entirely extinct for a 
 considerable radius, owing entirely to the influence of the 
 sulphurous fumes from the smelters. The elevation of the 
 city, at its most prominent business center, is 5,785 feet, but 
 rises several hundred feet higher to a point at the apex 
 of the hill. This affords a fresh mountain air, which, usually 
 in motion, clears away the smoke, so that the health of the 
 city is remarkably good. 
 
 About nine-tenths of the copper producing area in Butte 
 
MONTANA 
 
 107 
 
108 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is covered by the Anaconda Copper Mining Co., the Boston 
 & Montana Co., and the Butte & Boston Co.^ In each of 
 these the Amalgamated Copper Co. owns the controlling in- 
 terest. Of the companies just named, the Anaconda is by 
 far the largest. The individual producing mines of the 
 Anaconda group are the Anaconda, Neversweat, St. 
 Lawrence, Bell, Diamond, High Ore, and Mountain Con- 
 solidated. The entire production of these mines is trans- 
 ported over the Butte, Anaconda & Pacific Railway to the 
 great Washoe smelter and the refinery at Anaconda, and 
 are there treated. This smelter will be described separately 
 under the head of Deer Lodge County and Anaconda. The 
 Butte & Boston Company has four mines in its group and has 
 its own smelter near the mines. The Boston & Montana 
 group consists of four mines and. ships its ore to the smelter 
 at Great Falls for treatment. The Butte Reduction Co., 
 known as Senator Clark's Company, owns and works three 
 mines and operates its own smelter. The Colorado Smelting 
 and Mining Company operates several mines and smelts the 
 ore at the mines. The Montana Ore Purchasing Co., con- 
 trolled by Fritz August Heinze, ranks third in prominence. 
 The ores are smeltered in Butte and the individual mines are 
 known as the Rarus, Nipper, Cora, and there is one mine 
 the title of which is in dispute. There are several independ- 
 ,ent properties, and development work is still going on in 
 the outskirts of this rich belt. 
 
 Butte is the commercial, industrial and financial center of 
 a great state with rich and manifold resources. Some of 
 the largest mercantile establishments west of Chicago are 
 to be found here, and all commodities are sold at moderate 
 prices. The Hennessy Block, a combined department store 
 and office building, is the most prominent structure in the 
 city. The banking capital of the city runs into the millions, 
 and the Business Mens' Association, which represents all 
 the leading commercial interests of the city, is wide awake 
 and progressive. The mining industry is seen here in its ad- 
 vanced stages, as the most scientific methods are utilized. 
 Electricity and compressed air are employed, the former be- 
 ing brought seventy miles. Modern mining machinery has 
 been installed, and the leading mines are equipped with steel 
 gallows frames of modern type, displacing the obsolete, 
 wooden shaft houses. The mines are well regulated and 
 safelv managed, so that accidents are reduced to the minimum. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 109 
 
110 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The eight hour system is in vogue, and the average wages are 
 $3.50 per day. The men belong to unions and are thrifty and 
 contented. 
 
 Butte is a great, growing, busy city, unique in many re- 
 spects, a young and lusty giant of the Rockies, well capable 
 of doing battle with any industrial interest throughout the 
 world. 
 
 The Amalgamated Copper Company, which owns stock in 
 the principal mines of Butte, now controls approximately 
 two-thirds of the copper mining business of the state. It 
 also controls companies which own great bodies of standing 
 timber, used largely for mining purposes as well as for man- 
 ufacturing into lumber. It owns foundries, machine shops, 
 brick yards and coal mines in Montana and Wyoming, and 
 the immense new smelting plant at Anaconda, the largest of 
 its kind in existence, besides the smelters at Great Falls and 
 Butte. With but few less than 15,000 employes and a yearly 
 pay roll amounting to nearly $15,000,000, the various com- 
 panies in which the Amalgamated is interested bear a large 
 part in the business of the state. They produce nearly fifty 
 per cent of the copper output of the United States, and ap- 
 proximately twenty-five per cent of the world's copper, and 
 stand among the principal producers of silver. The Amal- 
 gamated interests have been built up with the aid of eastern 
 capital out of the copper business as it previously existed 
 in this state, and every effort is being made to continue the 
 development of these immense resources along the lines in- 
 stituted by Marcus Daly and other pioneers of the business. 
 There has already resulted therefrom an era of expansion 
 and progress in every direction : the mines are being worked 
 on an enlarged scale : the ore bodies are practically inex- 
 haustible, and the great smelter at Anaconda, which cost 
 more than $6,000,000, is in successful operation, and is un- 
 equalled. 
 
 There is everywhere confidence in the Butte mines, the 
 highest wages are paid to the workers, and good feeling and 
 co-operation between labor and capital is perhaps as well 
 exhibited there as anywhere in the country on a scale of 
 this magnitude. The farmers, the stock raisers, the business 
 men, in fact, the whole state, derive benefit from the opera- 
 tions of this great company, which operations are being rap- 
 idly supplemented by other undertakings. Eastern capital, 
 in conjunction with western enterprise and courage, is com- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 111 
 
112 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 billing not only to open mines, but to build woolen factories, 
 water plants, electric power installations and other institu- 
 tions for the benefit of advancing civilization. The wonder- 
 ful development taking place in the state of Montana is an 
 iastance of the east and the west working together in har- 
 mony, combining intellect and money, not only for profit, 
 but for the benefit of the workmen, who in all the different 
 lines of employment are happily situated. Progress leads 
 liberality by the hand and has not time nor inclination to 
 stop to grind the souls of the poor. To be among the fore- 
 most in the advancing army of commerce and industry seems 
 to be the laudable ambition of the Amalgamated Company. 
 
 Deer Lodge County and Anaconda. — Deer Lodge County 
 lies west of Silver Bow County, has an estimated population 
 of 13,000, most of which is contained in the city of Ana- 
 conda. Farming and stock raising is practiced in the county 
 to a considerable extent, but as in Silver Bow County, these 
 interests are entirely subsidiary to the mining interests, and 
 the county is closely identified with the mines at Butte. 
 
 Near the citv of Anaconda are located the great Washoe 
 smelter and Anaconda refinery. The accompanying views will 
 give a fair idea of this immense plant, which cost upwards of 
 $6,000,000 and was nearly two years in building. It con- 
 sists virtually of five separate departments, each occupying 
 its own building. Not only is it the greatest- enterprise of 
 its kind in Montana, but it certainly is of all the West, and 
 perhaps of all the world. When the fact is known that 10,- 
 000 car loads of material were used in its construction, some 
 idea of its magnitude can be gained. Twenty million feet 
 of lumber were used in the buildings, and 5,000,000 more in 
 the seven miles of flume, constructed from the three lakes 
 at the head of Warm Springs Creek, high up in the moun- 
 tains, to give the plant a water supply. This flume delivers 
 50,000 gallons of water a minute, supplying the city of An- 
 aconda as well as the smelter. The site of the smelter covers 
 300 acres of ground, of which seven acres are covered by 
 the concentrator alone. The works have a capacity for treat- 
 ing 6,000 tons of ore per day, and give employment reg- 
 ularlv to 1,500 men. Two immense power houses furnish 
 steam, compressed air and electricity to aid the mechanical 
 operation. 
 
 Smelting and Refining Process. — The ore is first sam- 
 pled in the sampling mill at the concentrator, and is then as- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 113 
 
114 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sayed to ascertain the exact value of each lot in copper, silver 
 and gold contents. The smelting ore goes direct to the blast 
 furnaces, while the concentrating ore is given to the great 
 concentrator plant, 600 feet long and 400 feet wide, with 
 about 600 jigs, or concentrating machines, the degree of con- 
 centration being from forty to fifty per cent. The coarser 
 concentrates go to the blast furnaces, and the finer to the 
 calcining furnaces or roasters. The roasting plant consists 
 of fifty-six great furnaces, which do their work automati- 
 cally, burning off much of the sulphurous element in the 
 concentrates, to prepare them for the reverberatory furnaces. 
 The concentrating plant is well up on the hill, the roasters 
 are below it and the reverberatories and blast furnaces still 
 farther down, with the converters lowest of all. All the 
 plants are connected by a complete system of tramways, with 
 motors operated by compressed air, and the waste of each 
 plant, the tailings, slag and ashes, is carried down the hill 
 by gravity in launders or flumes, supplied with water from 
 the main flume, brought seven miles to reach a point on the 
 hill above any of the works. Such of the waters passed 
 through the concentrator as may still contain metaliferous 
 values held in suspension, are directed by launders into three 
 large settling ponds, where the suspended matter is grad- 
 ually precipitated, and after a time the water is drawn off 
 and the mud or slum, as it is technically called, gathered up 
 and made into briquettes, to be treated at the blast furnaces. 
 When the coarse smelting ore and the coarse concentrates 
 reach the blast furnaces, and the finely concentrated and cal- 
 cined ore reaches the reverberatories, the smelting process 
 proper may be said to begin. There are fourten reverbera- 
 tories, each with a daily capacity of producing 175 tons of 
 copper matte, and seven blast furnaces which handle the re- 
 mainder of the ore treated. In these furnace plants, and in 
 the converting plant, which has nine Bessemer converters, may 
 be witnessed the daily conflict of fire and steam, compressed 
 air and electricity, aided by the genius, experience and labor 
 of man, to reduce the refractory products of nature to his 
 daily needs. The furnaces are charged directly from the 
 tram cars with ore, fluxes and fuel, and every appliance is 
 provided to aid the toilers in their hot work. Still, great 
 care and skill are required in handling hot copper. When a 
 furnace is tapped, the work is strenuous and exciting, arid 
 knowledge and courage are both essential. At last the hot 
 
MONTANA 
 
 115 
 
116 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 metal springs from its confinement and falls into the ladle 
 cars waiting to carry it to the converters. Here, still hot, it 
 is blown, or aerated and refined, to remove the last vestige of 
 sulphur, and then it is poured into great ladles which are 
 caught up by sixty-ton traveling cranes, and emptied into 
 the casting furnaces. These furnaces cast the copper into 
 anode cakes for the electrolytic refinery. 
 
 Up to this point the silver and gold of the ores have 
 followed along with the copper. As their value amounts to 
 several millions a year, they must be saved. So the anode 
 cakes are carried by railroad to the refinery, across the Warm 
 Springs Valley, and hung into electrolytic baths in lead-lined 
 tanks having a capacity of 10,000,000 pounds or more of 
 product monthly. This process makes pure cathode copper, 
 arid deposits the silver and gold contents of the anode cakes in 
 the form of mud at the bottom of the tank. A simple pro- 
 cess of furnace refining makes this mud into bullion bars of 
 standard fineness. 
 
 Thus are the commercial products of copper, silver and 
 gold wrested from the refractory sulphide ores of Butte hill 
 in these wonderful works instituted by the courage of modern 
 enterprise. Such works mark the epoch in which we live, 
 and show the progress made in the application of human 
 knowledge — the adjustment of inanimate things — to the needs 
 of humanity. 
 
 The lime rock for fluxing is obtained in the hills near the 
 smelter, and fire-brick and silica-brick, which have no equal, 
 are made near the plant. The coal, coke and ore are brought 
 from Butte by giant locomotives in heavy train loads of 
 sixtv or sevent)' cars, each car having fifty tons capacity, 
 and thus the cost of transportation is reduced to a mere 
 switching charge. In addition to the smelting plant, a very 
 complete plant in all its details exists for the manufacture 
 of mining and smelting machinery. Besides its own con- 
 struction work, considerable work is done for mines and 
 smelters throughout the Northwest, British Columbia and 
 Alaska. 
 
 The city of Anaconda is adjacent to the great smelter and 
 is connected with it by rail and electric lines. In conse- 
 quence of its proxmity, it may look forward to many years 
 of prosperity. It is situated in the Warm Springs Valley 
 and enjoys a very pleasant location, girdled by hills, in the 
 Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains. It boasts of a free 
 
MONTANA 
 
 117 
 
118 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 library, the leading daily newspaper, and the best appointed 
 hotel in the state, and it enjoys all the conveniences of a well 
 governed city. The hotel is newly remodeled and up to 
 date in all respects, the appointments, fare, and service being 
 exceptionally and surprisingly good for one found in the 
 very heart of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 The city is in direct and almost hourly touch with Butte, 
 which is only twenty-eight miles distant. The Northern Pa- 
 cific line passes through the county from north to south, which, 
 with the terminus of the Oregon Short Line at Silver Bow, 
 and the Great Northern terminus at Butte, all connected with 
 Anaconda by the Butte, Anaconda & Pacific Railway, afford 
 an outlet in every direction. 
 
 Custer County lies in the extreme southeasterly part of 
 the state. It was named for General Custer, who was mas- 
 sacred with his command on the Little Big Horn, now in 
 Rosebud County, but formerly a part of Custer County. It 
 has an immense area, reaching approximately 14,000 square 
 miles, being larger than several of the eastern states. It is 
 a prairie county in its entiretv, the climate and natural con- 
 ditions making it a stock and wool growing section. The 
 bad lands occupy the extreme southeastern part, but there 
 are many good farms in the river valley. It is classed among 
 the semi-arid counties and requires irrigation, which has been 
 attempted so far in a moderate way with the Tongue River 
 ditch. Lands outside the ditch can be bought to-day for 
 $2.50 per acre, and those within the ditch section at $25 
 per acre, with water. The crops mainly raised are wheat 
 and alfalfa. The prices charged for water are $2 per acre for 
 cultivated land, $1.50 for hay land, $1 per acre for new land. 
 This, of course, annually. 
 
 Miles City, the county seat, is a growing town of 2,000 pop- 
 ulation, situated on the bank of the Yellowstone River at 
 the mouth of the Tongue River, and on the Northern Pacific 
 Railway. It has good, paved streets, an electric light plant, 
 and other modern improvements. The State Reform School 
 is located here. Immense beds of lignite coal, which the set- 
 tlers use to good advantage, underlie the entire county. The 
 Northern Pacific Railway follows the valley of the Yellow- 
 stone River through the northwest part of the county. 
 
 Rosebud County was carved out of Custer County and has 
 an area of about 12,000 square miles. It has the general 
 features of Custer County, except that it is more moun- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 119 
 
120 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tainous and a large portion of the southern part of the 
 county is covered by the Northern Cheyenne Indian Reser- 
 vation. 
 
 Forsythe is the county seat, is located on the Yellowstone 
 River and on the Northern Pacific Railway, which follows 
 the valley of the Yellowstone from east to west. It is the 
 center of a generally better country than that to the east. 
 The county is well watered but semi-arid. 
 
 Yellowstone County lies immediately west of Rosebud 
 County, covers the valley of the Yellowstone River for a 
 hundred miles, and extends from the Big Horn River on 
 the southeast to the Musselshell River and Fergus Coiinty 
 on the north. It is a fine agricultural county and is semi- 
 arid, but the waters of the Yellowstone have been utilized 
 in irrigating with great success. It has immense stock inter- 
 ests, which make it a very wealthy county. In 1902 Billings, 
 the county seat, claims to have purchased more wool than any 
 other place in the United States. The climate is fairly mod- 
 erate in winter and quite warm in summer as compared with 
 the western part of the state, owing to the low altitude, which 
 is about 3,000 feet. 
 
 Billings is situated on the Yellowstone River and the North- 
 ern Pacific Railway, which still follows the Yellowstone Val- 
 ley in its course to the west. The city is strong commer- 
 cially and has grown steadily since its birth. It has a pop- 
 ulation of about 8,000, and all the improvements which would 
 ordinarily go with a city of 25,000 inhabitants, including 
 electric lights, sewer system, etc. A number of fine residences 
 are being built, one in particular, which, in its appointments 
 and decorations, classes with anything in the state. The op- 
 portunities for settlement here are good, but the public lands 
 are all taken up, except in the upper ranges, which cannot 
 be irrigated. Lands along the ditches can be purchased at 
 a reasonable price. 
 
 Carbon County lies south of Yellowstone and between 
 the Yellowstone River and Wyoming. It has an area of 
 3,000 square miles, and a population of 7.533, of which a 
 very large portion are miners. The combined resources are 
 mining, stock raising and farming, and although this is a 
 small count^•, for the man of small means it is one of the 
 very best in the state. The streams are quite rapid, so that 
 numerous small ditches have been made to water the bench 
 lands. 
 
MONTANA 
 
 121 
 
122 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Nearly the entire county is underlaid with bituminous 
 coal, which is shipped for smelter and domestic purposes to 
 a considerable distance. Many men are employed in the mines 
 at Red Lodge, at Carbonado, at Bridger, and at Gebo, so that 
 there is a large demand for agricultural products. At Car- 
 bonado the Anaconda Copper Mining Co. is erecting a large 
 coal mining plant. Several small companies are operating col- 
 lieries, and it is predicted that soon fully 10,000 men will be 
 working in these mines. Silver and gold are found in the Wood 
 River district, as well as several of the other districts. The 
 county seat is Red Lodge, but there are other good places, like 
 Gebo, which are destined to become business cities. The North- 
 ern Pacific operates a branch line to Red Lodge and to Bridger. 
 
 Sweet Grass County lies west of Yellowstone and Carbon 
 counties, has an area of about 3,000 scjuare miles, and a pop- 
 ulation of 3,086. This is a rich county, is well settled, and 
 well irrigated, especially along the Yellowstone River and 
 the valley of the Sweet Grass River, which runs into the 
 Yellowstone from the north. Two canals are now being built, 
 under the arid land law. A part of the county was settled 
 by Hollanders, who have good farms and a cheese factory, 
 and are very prosperous. This is one of the best parts of 
 Montana. 
 
 Big Timber, the county seat, is located on the Yellow- 
 stone River and the Northern Pacific Railway, which trav- 
 erses the county east and west, following the valley of the 
 Yellowstone. It is a substantially built town, with a large 
 volume of business, and has much pretensions to becoming 
 a great wool market, having shipped 3,000,000 pounds of wool 
 in 1900. A woolen mill is now being built to utilize this 
 product. A flouring mill and a creamery are a part of the 
 industries. Good mines are located in the Crazy Mountains, 
 which, with other industries, will no doubt give Big Timber 
 a brilliant future. 
 
 Park County lies west of Sweet Grass and borders the 
 state of Wyoming on the south. It has a population of 7,341, 
 and is named Park County since a small strip of the Yellow- 
 stone National Park covers the southern part of the county. 
 Like most Montana counties, the resources consist of stock 
 raising, farming and mining. The waters of the Yellowstone 
 Valley traverse the countv from the Park regions to the Sweet 
 Grass country, giving the clearest and purest water that can 
 be desired. The mountains are comparatively wild and the 
 
MONTANA 
 
 123 
 
 TWELVE OF FORTY-EIGHT AUTOMATIC ROASTING FL'RNACES, ANACONDA, MONTANA. 
 
124 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 vallej's narrow. Mining is assuming considerable propor- 
 tions, especially in the southeastern part, some good strikes 
 being reported, while coal mining and the manufacture of coke 
 is also increasing. The Northern Pacific crosses the county 
 from east to west and the road to the Yellowstone Park from 
 Livingston runs as far as Gardiner. 
 
 Livingston, the county seat, is located on the Yellowstone 
 River and the Northern Pacific Railway, whose shops here have 
 lately been doubled in size. This is a growing and substantial 
 town. Population in 1900, 2,778. 
 
 Gallatin County lies west of Park County and the Yel- 
 lowstone Park. The Gallatin River traverses the county from 
 north to south and yields water for irrigation purposes, as do 
 manv others of the smaller streams. The greatest success is 
 attained in the growth of all kinds of crops, especially alfalfa, 
 and fruits. There are several flourishing villages in the 
 county. Bozeman, the county seat, has a population of 
 5,000, two banks, two flour mills, churches, clubs, the State 
 Agricultural College and station. The Northern Pacific en- 
 ters the count)' from the east and follows the Gallatin and 
 Missouri River valleys through Broadwater County. 
 
 Mauison County borders on the state of Idaho, lies imme- 
 diately west of Gallatin, has an area of 4,250 square miles, 
 and a population of 7.695. It is the most southerly county 
 of the state, covering the valleys of the Ruby, Madison, Wil- 
 low and Jefferson rivers. Its resources are the same as most 
 Montana counties. There is considerable rainfall in this 
 county, so that little irrigation is required. Irrigated farm 
 lands can be procured for from $8 to $35 per acre. This is 
 cheaper than the same quality of lands can be had for in 
 other parts of the state. 
 
 Virginia City, the county seat, was the capital of Mon- 
 tana territory, and the scene of early placer diggings, as was 
 also Alder Gulch. Population in 1900, 578. Virginia City was 
 the scene of great excitement and high prices. One doUar 
 was paid for letters being carried to or from Salt Lake City ; 
 lumber brought $250 per thousand feet ; potatoes sold for $6 
 per bushel, and wheat for $4 per bushel ; flour averaged $30 
 per hundred pounds and in the camps reached $110 in gold 
 in May, 1865, when paper money was worth but forty cents 
 on the dollar. 
 
 With its large area of agricultural land and vast mineral 
 
MONTANA 
 
 125 
 
 GRAND CANYON AND LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. 
 
126 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 resources Madison is one of the most promising counties in 
 tlie state. 
 
 Beaver Head County lies west of Madison County and 
 adjoins the Idaho line. Farming and stock raising are very 
 profitable in these valleys, the soil being good, and not being 
 far distant from Butte an excellent market is afiforded. The 
 Union Pacific traverses the county north and south, and 
 Dillon, a lively town on this road and the Beaver Head River, 
 is the county seat. Population in 1900, 1,530. 
 
 The Yellowstone National Park is almost entirely located 
 in northwestern Wyoming, but the major part of the tourists 
 
 AN IRRIGATED BARLEY FARM IN GALLATIN VALLEY. 
 
 who visit it do so by way of Livingston. The area of this 
 Park is 3,412 square miles. It consists of an elevated volcanic 
 plateau, hemmed in by mountains whose peaks rise to a height 
 of from 10,000 to 13,000 feet, the general level of the plateau 
 being from 7,000 to 8,000 feet. The Main Divide of the Rocky 
 Mountains crosses the Park in a circuitous line, its peaks be- 
 ing mostlv extinct volcanoes. Electric Peak, the highest of 
 the volcanoes, has an elevation of 11,155 feet. 
 
 The Park is filled with natural wonders, such as hot and 
 cold springs, both mammoth and small, of all apparent colors 
 and qualities, cliffs of natural glass, flowing and spouting 
 geysers, beautiful lakes, deep canyons and great falls. Per- 
 
MONTANA 
 
 127 
 
 haps of all these wonders, the beauties of Yellowstone Lake, 
 "Old Faithful" geyser. Beryl Springs, the Paint Pots, and the 
 Terrace may be enumerated as the most interesting, all of 
 which are eclipsed in grandeur by the Grand Canyon and 
 falls of the Yellowstone. The best of writers have admitted 
 that their descriptive faculties were rendered powerless bv 
 the awe inspired by this vast but resplendent chasm. 
 
 EMIGRANT PEAK. NEAR YELLOWSTONE PARK. 
 
 The tourist season begins June i and ends September i ot 
 each year. The Park is sixty-two miles long and fifty-four 
 miles wide, and the trip from Livingston to encompass it is 
 made in five and a half days. The first day takes the traveler 
 from Livingston to Gardiner, fifty-one miles by rail, and then 
 seven miles by stage to the mammoth hot springs ; the sec- 
 ond day from Mammoth Hot Springs to Lower Geyser Basin, 
 
128 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 by stage fort)' miles ; the third day from Lower Geyser Basin 
 to Upper Geyser Basin and return, by stage eighteen miles; 
 the fourth day from Lower Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake 
 hotel, by stage forty-seven miles ; the fifth day from Yellow- 
 stone Lake hotel to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, by 
 stage seventeen miles ; the sixth day, Grand Canyon to 
 Cinnabar, thirty-nine miles by stage, and to Livingston, fifty- 
 one miles by rail, making a total of 270 miles, of which 168 
 are made by stage coach. The stage coaches are easy riding 
 and seat from six to ten passengers each, and the hotels in 
 the Park are comfortable, steam heated and electric lighted, 
 each accommodating from 150 to 250 guests. 
 
 IDAHO. 
 
 The name Idaho is an Indian name and signifies "Gem of the 
 Mountains." The state lies west of the Rocky Mountains, be- 
 ing a part of the Pacific North- 
 west. Its eastern boundary is 
 formed by* the Coeur d'Alene 
 and Bitter Root mountains and 
 the State of Wyoming. Ne- 
 vada and Utah bound it on the 
 south, from which point the 
 state extends 485 miles to the 
 ..^^^^ ,_ Canadian line. Oregon and 
 
 j jjg 'M^^Hb^-^^a Washington lie to the west, the 
 
 canyon of the Snake River 
 marking the boundary line for 
 more than a third of the dis- 
 tance. The area of the state 
 is 84,800 square miles, of which 
 510 square miles are water. 
 
 Early History. — The terri- 
 tory now comprised in the state 
 of Idaho originally formed a part of the Oregon territory. The 
 Lewis and Clark expedition across the state, following largely 
 the Clearwater River, is referred to in the general historical 
 matter. The Coeur d'Alene country was settled about 1842 
 by the Jesuit father, De Smet, who founded a line of missions 
 throughout the Rocky Mountain country, the most prosperous of 
 which was probabl}- the one near Coeur d'Alene Lake. During 
 
 NEZ PERCES OF THE PRESENT DAY. 
 
IDAHO 
 
 129 
 
 CHIEF JOSEPH, OF THE NEZ PERCES, A GREAT INDIAN GENERAL. 
 
 Lee Moorliouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore. 
 
130 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the gold excitement of 1852 various prospectors came into the 
 state, and in 1854 Fort Lemhi was erected on the Salmon River, 
 among the Nez Perces, by a colony of Mormons, who were 
 finally driven back to Salt Lake ; a French Canadian settle- 
 ment was also established on the St. Mary's River. 
 
 Owing to the Civil war and the fame of the Salmon River 
 mines, a tide of emigration swept westward in 1862-3. In 
 1863 Congress constituted the territory of Idaho, which had 
 been successively a part of Oregon, Utah and Washington ; 
 in 1864 a part of it was set aside as Montana, and in 1868 an- 
 other part as Wyoming. In 1890, in its present size and form, 
 it was admitted as the forty-third state of the Union, or thir- 
 tieth in the order of admission. In 1863, as a territory, it had 
 four organized counties and ten mining towns. From 1865-8 
 and from 1874-8 the country was much disturbed by Indian 
 wars. After this the development of the natural resources of 
 the state went steadily forward, mining and agriculture making 
 rapid advances. The Oregon Short Line built its road north- 
 ward, which afiforded better mtans of transportation, and irri- 
 gation was practiced with success. Boise was made the capi- 
 tal of the territory and of the state, and will remain so by spe- 
 cial act until 1910, when the cjuestion of a transfer to another 
 city will be submitted to the people. In this state the practice of 
 polygamy is made a bar to citizenship. 
 
 Topography. — The surface of Idaho is exceedingly diversi- 
 fied. The state is a wedge-shaped plateau, the chief features 
 of which are the drainage systems of the Snake and Columbia 
 rivers, with an extensive arid plain along the banks of the 
 former river in the southern part of the state. The country 
 north of this plain is exceedingly mountainous. The Rocky, 
 Bitter Root, Coeur d'Alene and Cabinet mountains extend 
 along the northeastern border of the state, and in Ihe center 
 are the Clearwater, Salmon River and Saw Tooth ranges. In 
 the extreme southeast are the Snake River, Goose Creek and 
 Bear River ranges, and in the southwest the Owyhee. The 
 Salmon River Mountains extend along the river of the same 
 name and reach a height of 12,000 feet, their summits being 
 rugged and mostly covered with snow. The surface of Idaho 
 has an average elevation of 4,700 feet, rising from an altitude 
 of 647 feet at Lewiston to 12,078 feet in Hyndman Peak in 
 Blaine County. 
 
 Between the mountain ranges are many valleys watered by 
 numerous streams, some being of considerable size. The larg- 
 
IDAHO 
 
 131 
 
132 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 est river in the state is the Snake River, which has its source in 
 Yellowstone Park. It flows across the entire state in a broad 
 curve, and, with the exception of a small corner in the south- 
 eastern part of the state, and in the Panhandle country, drains 
 the whole state. This river has a number of falls and rapids, 
 the more notable of which are the American, Twin, Salmon 
 and Shoshone Falls, the latter having a descent of 210 feet. 
 The basaltic clifl^s, which flank the river, and the descending 
 large volume of water make a sublime spectacle. On the west 
 side of the state the river flows through a deep canyon, one of 
 the most remarkable in the United States, in some places ex- 
 ceeding the Grand Canyon of Colorado in depth. The main 
 tributaries on the east are the Salmon, which receives the 
 larger part of the drainage in the central part of the state ; 
 the Wood, Boise, Payette, and Weiser, and in the southwest 
 the Bruneau and Owyhee rivers. The Clearwater and Palouse 
 rivers come into the Snake from the east and the northern 
 part of the state, and the waters of the Panhandle drain to the 
 Columbia through the Spokane River, which rises in the Bitter 
 Root range, Clark's Fork and the Kootenai. Among the lakes 
 of the state three are worthy of especial notice : The Pend 
 d'Oreille, an expansion of Clark's Fork, thirty-five miles long 
 and eight miles wide ; the Coeur d'Alene, twenty miles long, 
 and the Lower Priest, eighteen miles long and five miles in 
 width, all of which are in the Panhandle country. 
 
 Geologically considered, the southern part of Idaho is a 
 great lava plain, similar to the main Columbia Plateau of east- 
 ern Washington and Oregon, The soil throughout this region, 
 whenever subjected to water, produces bountifully. The moun- 
 tain ranges of this portion of the state are mainly of silurian 
 and carboniferous ages. Numerous fossils have been found, 
 including the remains of mastodons, elephants, and alligators 
 and other saurians. In northern Idaho the mountains are 
 chiefly eozoic. In this part of the state the elevated table 
 lands produce without irrigation. 
 
 The mountains of the northern part of the state, including 
 the upper portion of the Boise, Payette and Weiser valleys, 
 are heavily covered with forests of white and yellow pine, 
 larch and fir. The valleys and sheltered basins are covered 
 with grasses, which afford excellent pasturage. The southern 
 counties, or those of the Snake River plains, have a growth of 
 sage-brush, and the country south and east of that river is 
 covered with grass and sage-brush and a scattering growth of 
 
IDAHO 
 
 133 
 
 HYDRAULIC MINING. 
 
134 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 evergreens on the mountains. The timber resources of Idaho 
 are almost unhmited. No state in the Union contains more 
 extensive timber behs, though the timber m size and height is 
 not so large as the forests west of the Cascade Mountains. 
 These timber belts lie in the mountain districts in the more 
 northerly part of the state, and are estimated to comprise 
 35,000 square miles, or forty-two per cent of the total area of 
 the state. Lumbering has become an industry of importance, 
 and with the extension of railway facilities into the mountains 
 will attain large proportions. Four-fifths of the Bitter Root 
 forest reserve and nearly all of the Priest River reserve lie in 
 Idaho. The estimated stand is 450,000,000 feet, the greater 
 part being yellow pine, with a quantity of red fir, and in the 
 marshy districts dense masses of cedar. 
 
 Climate. — The climate of Idaho varies with the altitude, ths 
 same as in eastern Washington and Oregon, the air being dry 
 and highly rarefied. In the mountainous districts the winters 
 are extremely cold and there are heavy snowfalls, but on the 
 plains the winters are quite moderate, while in the valleys the 
 temperature is mild and the snowfalls light. The greatest 
 rainfall occurs in the mountain regions of the north, the pre- 
 cipitation in the lower valleys and on the plains being in gen- 
 eral so light as to make irrigation necessary to the growing of 
 crops. The average annual precipitation for a term of years 
 for the entire state has been 17.52 inches, but the range between 
 the extremes in the various portions of the state is very great. 
 Oakley, in Cassia County, one of the southern tiers of coun- 
 ties, has a precipitation of 8.03 inches, while the rainfall at 
 Murray, in the extreme northern part of the state, is 46.88 
 inches. The annual precipitation of rain and snow at Lewis- 
 ton is about twenty-four inches and the mean annual rainfall 
 at Boise is 30.1 inches. The mean annual temperature at 
 Boise is 50.9°, the range being from — 28° to 107°. The cli- 
 mate is very healtliy, perhaps no state in the Union shovv^ing 
 so low a death rate. 
 
 Resources. — The leading industries of the state are min- 
 ing, lumbering, and agriculture. The mineral products con- 
 stitute the chief source of wealth. Mining is, however, in its 
 infancy, owing to the lack of transportation in the mountains, 
 which is needed very badly to bring coal to the camps and 
 transport the ore to the smelters. This will no doubt be reme- 
 died in time, when electricity will be transmitted from Twin, 
 Shoshone ot other falls. Gold was first discovered on the 
 
IDAHO 
 
 135 
 
136 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Clearwater River at Orofino Creek in i860. In 1862, in the 
 Idaho Basin, placers were discovered which yielded in 150 
 square miles more than $50,000,000. In 1900 Idaho ranked 
 fourth in the order of silver producing states, the output for 
 the year being $8,312,372, coinage value, and $1,724,700 in 
 gold. The Coeur d'Alene district of this state vields one-fourth 
 of the lead produced in the entire United States and it is the 
 chief source of supply for the smelters of Colorado, Montana 
 and Washington. There are valuable copper deposits in the 
 Seven Devils district, in Washington and Idaho counties. 
 Cinnabar has been discovered, carrying a high per cent in 
 quicksilver. Throughout the mineral regions there yet re- 
 main vast stretches of country practically unexplored, and new 
 and important discoveries are expected each year. The latest 
 finds are at Buffalo Hump, Rocky Bar, Atlanta and Skelteh 
 Creek, but the sensational discovery was at Thunder Mountain 
 in 1901. This mountain stands near the corner of Idaho, 
 Lemhi and Custer Counties, is nearly encircled by the Salmon 
 River, and is expected to become a great camp. There are six 
 routes now laid out, the principal of which are from Red Rock, 
 Mont., Black Foot, Shoshone, Lewiston, Boise and Stites. 
 
 The agricultural resources are great in almost all parts of 
 the state. It is estimated that there are 16,000,000 acres of 
 agricultural lands, large areas of which require irrigation. The 
 state, as well as private enterprise, has given unusual attention 
 to the irrigation problem, and great advancement has been 
 made. The upper valley of the Snake River, from Maryville 
 Falls has many canals, the upper Snake River plains being well 
 adapted to irrigation. Other ditches are vmder advisement on 
 a large scale, while still others have been constructed at Moun- 
 tain Home, Glens Ferry, and in the Boise, Payette, and Weiser 
 valleys. In the short period of ten years irrigation has added 
 to the improved area thirty-eight per cent, and a farm wealth 
 of $12,000,000. 
 
 North of the Clearwater River the country does not need 
 irrigation, Latah County producing wheat equal to any section 
 in Washington. The important fruit belts are along the im- 
 mediate Snake, Boise and other valleys, and at Lewiston, 
 farther north. The southeastern part of the state is better 
 adapted to diversified farming — grains, grasses, vegetables and 
 alfalfa yielding enormously. 
 
 The inaccessibility of Idaho has tended to retard its devel- 
 opment. There being no navigable rivers in the state, it is 
 
IDAHO 
 
 137 
 
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138 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 evident that the transportation problem must be solved by the 
 building of railroads. The construction of the Oregon Short 
 Line northerly through the eastern portion of the state and 
 west through the southern part encouraged very generally 
 the existing industries. The Northern Pacific and the Great 
 Northern cross the Panhandle in the extreme north, the former 
 reaching Lewiston and Idaho County. The Oregon Railroad 
 & Navigation Co. also crosses the Panhandle, reaching the 
 Coeur d'Alene mines and the Palouse country, and is now build- 
 ing up the Snake River to Lewiston. J\Iuch has been said about 
 a connection with the Northern Pacific via Lolo Pass and the 
 Clearwater to Lewiston. The conditions seem to be more fav- 
 orable to new developments in the immediate future. 
 
 There are many prosperous towns in the interior of the 
 state, far from railway communication, which are the centers 
 of the cowboy, ranchman and miner, and are often the seat of 
 vast fortunes acquired from the ranging of sheep and cattle. 
 The stage coach is in evidence in all parts of the state. 
 
 COUNTIES. 
 
 Lemhi and Custer Counties. — It may be said that all 
 that part of the state lying south of the Salmon River in its 
 course to the west is arid, and requires irrigation. This 
 would include with these counties the southern part of Idaho 
 County. The south, or main fork, of the Salmon River heads 
 in the heart of the Saw Tooth Mountains, and runs northerly 
 for a distance of 200 miles to Shoup, via Salmon City. The 
 east fork and the Pahsimero head in the Lost River Mountains 
 and empt}' into the main Salmon above Salmon Cit}'. The 
 Lemhi heads in the Rocky Mountains and enters at Salmon 
 City. This drainage area is an empire in extent and is won- 
 derfully rich in agriculture, stockraising, timber and mineral 
 resources. The principal industry is mining, but these coun- 
 ties are fast taking a prominent place in the state in agriculture 
 and stockraising. The water supply is ample. Most of the 
 irrigated lands are in Custer and Lemhi Counties, which lie at 
 an elevation of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet. The principal devel- 
 opment is in Custer County, in the vicinity of Challis. Here 
 several ditches have been taken out, owned mostly by indi- 
 viduals. The developments on the Pahsimero River are chiefly 
 in the vicinity of Morse and Goldberg. There is a large amount 
 of good land in this valley that can be developed. Some of the 
 
IDAHO 
 
 139 
 
140 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 irrigated lands at the head of Lost River are in Custer County. 
 As the Lemhi ilows deep below the main body of agricultural 
 land the latter is watered by creeks coming in from either side. 
 There are many opportunities here for those with small means 
 to become prosperous. The Oregon Short Line branch road, 
 now in operation from Blackfoot to Mackey, in Custer County, 
 with the proposed extension to Salmon City, will afford ade- 
 quate transportation for this rich region. 
 
 Challis is the county seat of Custer County, and Salmon 
 City of Lemhi County, both being thriving towns with fine bus- 
 iness blocks, water systems and lighting plants. 
 
 The Snake River \'alley. — With the exception of an area 
 of 4,000 square miles, in the southeast part of the state, which 
 is drained irfto the Salt Lake Basin, all the arid land of Idaho 
 lies within the drainage of the Snake River, and this river and 
 its tributaries must furnish water for all this region, two-thirds 
 of which will be supplied direct from the Snake River itself. 
 
 A great sheet of lava extends from one side of the valley to 
 the other and throughout its entire length. In some places its 
 thickness is ten feet, while near the central portion 800 feet is 
 exposed. In most places its surface has been covered to a great 
 depth by an alluvial deposit of silt and gravel brought down 
 from the neighboring mountains. This in turn is covered by 
 soil of volcanic origin, which, when properly irrigated, pos- 
 sesses wonderful fertility. In the great central portion ridges 
 and great beds of lava are exposed on the surface, but for the 
 most part a covering of soil exists which sustains a heavy 
 growth of sage-brush and the entire region is used as a winter 
 range for sheep and cattle. The upper end of this valley lies 
 at an elevation of 5,500 feet, while the lower and western end 
 (Washington County) has an elevation of about 2,200 feet. It 
 is from seventy-five to 100 miles in width between the foot- 
 hills of the opposite mountain ranges. The surface of the val- 
 ley varies from flat bottom land, sloping with the river, to high 
 plateaus, falling back, terrace above terrace, to the foothills 
 on either side. Henry's Fork, in the eastern part of Fremont 
 County, flows on the top of a lava sheet to a point several 
 miles southwest of St. Anthony to a point on the mam river at 
 Idaho Falls. The flow is on top of an alluvial deposit which 
 rests on the lava. From Idaho Falls to a point ten miles be- 
 low, the river flows on top of the lava, but from this point to 
 American Falls the lava is covered by an alluvial deposit con- 
 sisting: chieflv of gravel. At American Falls the river descends 
 
IDAHO 
 
 141 
 
 AN IRRIGATING VIADUCT. 
 
142 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 about fifty feet, the Oregon Short Line crossing at this point, 
 the bridge being right over the faUs. The river now flows be- 
 tween high benches for a distance of fort)' miles ; westward to 
 the Cedars it flows between high lava ridges that rise rapidly 
 a short distance back from the stream. Below the Cedars these 
 ridges are covered to a great depth with a fine volcanic soil. 
 From the Cedars to the mouth of Clover Creek, a distance 
 of eighty miles, the river is in most places a raging torrent, 
 having an average fall of about twenty feet to the mile and 
 cutting its channel deep in the lava sheet many hundred feet 
 below the level of the valley. In this stretch of the river 
 several magnificent falls occur, the most noted being the great 
 Shoshone Falls (210 feet) and Twin Falls (180 feet), while 
 at intervals other vertical leaps are made, in many cases from 
 twenty to fifty feet, all suggesting, in addition to the natural 
 grandeur of their surroundings, the wonderful electrical possi- 
 bilities which can be utilized in the industrial development of 
 the state. 
 
 From the mouth of Clover Creek to the state line, a distance 
 of about 140 miles, the river flows on top of an alluvial de- 
 posit, which forms little valleys in the canyon from 400 to 1,000 
 feet below the level of the great plains on either side. Through- 
 out this section it flows on top of a deep alluvial deposit brought 
 down from the mountains by the streams in the southeast, and 
 the high plateaus which border it on either side for the last 
 300 miles of its course give way to broad and gently sloping 
 valleys of the different tributaries. 
 
 From the southwest corner of Washington County to the 
 mouth of the Salmon River, the Snake River flows at the bot- 
 tom of a canyon at the foot of the steep slopes of high moun- 
 tains on either side. A few miles below the Salmon the moun- 
 tains fall back, leaving broad bench lands bordering on the 
 river from 500 to 3,000 feet in elevation. Near Lewiston a 
 few low benches occur, lying from twenty to 150 feet above 
 the river, and at an elevation of about 750 feet above the level 
 of the sea. These lower benches are irrigated, but the high 
 plateaus of Nez Perces County are cultivated without irri- 
 gation. 
 
 No branch streams join the river from the north between 
 Henry's Fork, in the extreme northeast corner of the state, 
 and the Big Wood River in Lincoln County, a distance of 
 nearly 300 miles, the courses of the streams which rise in the 
 mountains on that side being obstructed by this great lava de- 
 
IDAHO 
 
 143 
 
144 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 posit. The description of the Lost River country is given later 
 with Blaine Count)'. While a great central plain containing 
 more than 5,000,000 acres, is not crossed by a single stream, it 
 is by no means worthless, for it is one of the best winter ranges 
 in the west, and large sections of it can be reclaimed by irri- 
 gation. 
 
 Fremont, Bingham and Bannock Counties constitute 
 the upper Snake River Valley. Here is the beginning of the 
 greatest irrigation district in the United States. Canals have 
 been constructed and others are being pushed to completion 
 for the irrigation of all that vast and fertile region lyi-ng be- 
 tween the eastern boundaries of Fremont County and Amer- 
 ican Falls in Oneida County, comprising about 700,000 acres 
 of land. The total length of these canals, when completed, will 
 be not less than 650 miles, and land throughout this region can 
 be purchased at extremely moderate prices. The source of 
 the water supply is from the high plateau and never failing 
 snows, and lakes of Yellowstone Park. The flow of the river 
 is quite regular, and the flood-flow occurs late in the season. 
 From St. Anthony to Blackfoot the river banks are low and 
 the river has a fall of but five feet to the mile, so there is no 
 difficulty of diverting the water from it into ditches. The large 
 canals have for the most part been constructed by the settlers 
 themselves and were not expensive, some costing not more 
 than from $1.00 to $4.00 per acre for the land irrigated, while 
 the annual maintenance, including wages of overseer, or water 
 master, does not amount to over twenty cents per acre, and 
 on some canals as low as five cents per acre. At American 
 Falls a high ridge of lava crosses the river and ends the upper 
 irrigation district. This strip of country is about 135 miles 
 in length and from five to twenty miles in width, contains 
 nearly 1,100 square miles, and of this vast area about one-third 
 is now being tilled. 
 
 This section of Idaho is especially adapted to the raising of 
 vegetables, the hardier fruits, hay, wheat, oats, barley, and es- 
 pecially alfalfa. The conditions and cost of two or three of 
 the many canals are here cited for the sake of reference. 
 
 The Marysville Canal & Improvement Co. main canal, with 
 laterals, has a length of about thirty miles and intends to 
 irrigate 25,000 acres. Estimated cost, $20,000. The water 
 is sold at $6 per inch and annual cost of maintenance. Idaho 
 Canal Co. cost $50,000, belongs to the resident land owners, 
 and a share of stock costs $15, which entitles the owner to ten 
 
IDAHO 
 
 145 
 
 10 
 
146 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 miner's inches of water. The annual maintenance is about 
 $i.oo per share. The Reservation Canal, about thirty miles in 
 length, is designed to water the Fort Hall Indian Reservation, 
 where there are 125,000 acres of land below irrigation level, 14,- 
 000 acres of which has lately been thrown open to settlement 
 around Pocatello. The American Falls Canal & Power Co.'s 
 canal heads ten miles above Blackfoot and is 200 miles in 
 length, including the laterals. It cost $325,000 and is under 
 the Carey act. 
 
 The counties of Fremont, Bingham and the upper part 
 of Bannock constitute the upper Snake River Valley and 
 are as rich as any counties in the state. They will develop 
 large diversified farming communities, and inexhaustible ranges 
 for cattle and sheep. In the vicinity of Idaho Falls, in 1902, 
 there were fattened on alfalfa and wheat and shipped 20,000 
 head of hogs, vidiich gives a fair idea of the fattening quali- 
 ties of this wonderful plant, which is raised under irrigation 
 in such prodigious crops. Thousands of acres here are un- 
 settled and open to filing under the desert and homestead acts. 
 
 Idaho Falls, on the Oregon Short Line, with a population of 
 1,700, has water works, electric lighting plant, telephone sys- 
 tem, seven churches, a creamery, flour and planing mills, and 
 the State Experimental Station. The price of land under ditch 
 in this vicinity ranges from $10 to $20 per acre; unimproved, 
 $5 to $10 per acre. 
 
 St. xA-nthony, on the Oregon Short Line, has a population 
 of 1,200, good schools, churches, and several industries. Black- 
 foot, on the same line and the junction of the Salmon River 
 branch line, has a population of 1,500, is the seat of the state in- 
 sane asylum, the United States Land Office, the largest district 
 in the state, and is quite a shipping point. 
 
 Bannock, though one of the southeast counties, is a part of 
 the upper irrigation district. It has a large section of agri- 
 cultural lands on which large flocks of sheep and herds of cat- 
 tle are ranged. 
 
 Pocatello is the county seat, has a population of about 
 5,000, and is a great railroad center, being a terminal point 
 for the Oregon Short Line from the east, via Granger on the 
 Union Pacific, also via Salt Lake and Ogden from the Southern 
 Pacific Railway, Portland, via the Oregon Railway & Naviga- 
 tion Co., and Butte, Mont., from the Northern Pacific and ttie 
 Great Northern, thus having communication from all points 
 of the compass. Large railroad shops are located here, em- 
 
IDAHO 
 
 147 
 
 
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148 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 pIo\'ing upwards of 500 men, and the city is in a thrifty con- 
 dition. Mines are being opened in the near vicinity and ev- 
 erything points to this soon becoming a mining center. 
 
 Bear Lake County is the extreme southeasterly county of 
 the state. This is a county of high altitude, lying in the Rocky 
 Mountains, and is devoted largely to cattle and sheep raising. 
 The mining interests are becoming prominent. Bear Lake, a 
 body of water covering eighty square miles, the greater part 
 of which is located in this county, is one of the most beau- 
 tiful lakes of the mountains, and abounds in trout, white fish, 
 bass and other varieties of the finny tribe. 
 
 Montpelier is situated on the Oregon Short Line and has 
 a population of 2,000. It is growing very fast at present, good 
 business blocks and other buildings being erected. Paris is the 
 county seat, located on the Oregon Short Line, and is an- 
 other good town. This county is having a genuine mining 
 boom in a conservative way. 
 
 Oneida, Cassia and C)\\viiee Counties are bounded on 
 the north by the Snake River, and on the south by the boundary 
 line of the state. They have a mild climate and are therefore 
 capable of producing all the agricultural crops and fruits, and 
 are comparatively well watered. The largest body of level 
 land is perhaps found in the Cache Valley, in the eastern 
 part of Cassia County, but which lies too high for irriga- 
 tion. Farther to the east considerable land is irrigated along 
 several creeks. On Deep Creek and the Malade X'alley, in 
 the western part of Oneida County, are the best opportunities 
 for water storage sites. 
 
 In Cassia County is the site and district covered by the 
 Twin Falls Land & Water Co., which is an enterprise in- 
 volving the reclamation of 271,000 acres of land, to cost 
 approximately $1,500,000, and is perhaps the largest indi- 
 vidual irrigating undertaking in the United States. Two hun- 
 dred and thirty thousand acres of land are located in this county 
 and 41,000 on the north side of the Snake River, in Lincoln 
 County. The average altitude of these counties is 4,000 feet, 
 and the climate is very mild. In Cassia Countv are some of 
 the richest fruit lands in the state, the sun during the summer 
 months striking the lower valle3's with almost a tropical heat. 
 Three dams will be constructed at Twin Falls on the Snake 
 River, to a height of fifty-four feet. The river at this point 
 is 1,600 feet in width and will be raised to a height of thirty- 
 four feet. This land is subject to the Carey act, therefore only 
 
IDAHO 
 
 149 
 
150 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 i6o acres will be sold to an individual. There will be a town 
 at the dam and a water-power site named Milner, and another 
 named Twin Falls, to which a railroad connected with the Ore- 
 gon Short Line is projected. The majestic Shoshone Falls is 
 in this district. 
 
 With the exception of a few scattered ranches along the 
 narrow bottom of the rivers, irrigated by short ditches, or water 
 taken out by current wheels which lift the water direct from 
 the river, the Snake River itself is not used for irrigation pur- 
 poses from American Falls to Lewiston, owing to the depth 
 of the valley proper. 
 
 The northern part of these counties, west of Pocatello, 
 consists of high plateaus, a part of the Snake River plains. 
 They lie at an elevation of about 3,000 feet and extend back 
 from twenty to sixty miles. Back of these plains is a range 
 of mountains, the summits of which, in places, are in Nevada, 
 but the northern slopes parallel the Snake River. The Salmon 
 and Bruneau rivers drain the central district, and both flow in 
 deep canyons. On Cedar Creek the farmers have constructed 
 a canal, and there are several ditches along the Bruneau River. 
 Beyond the ranches are scattered here and there in Owyhee 
 County, which is largely a stock cotmtry, but a veritable store-, 
 house of mineral wealth. The De Lamar and Trade Dollar 
 mines, famous the world over, are here situated. All the ag- 
 ricultural products in this vicinity have ready sale at good 
 prices in these camps. Silver City is the center of the mining 
 districts of Owyhee County, and is reached by a branch of the 
 Oregon Short Line. 
 
 Blaine County and the Lost River Country. — It was 
 stated before that no running streams enter the Snake River 
 on the north from near its headwaters to the Wood River, in 
 Blaine and Lincoln counties, or a distance of about 300 miles. 
 An area of about 4,000 miles is drained by several creeks, some 
 of considerable size, which at one time evidently formed an 
 important tributary to the Snake River. Its course is hard 
 to guess, for the great lava sheet has not only filled it, but 
 obliterated all traces of its existence. The principal streams 
 forming this disconnected drainage system are the Big and 
 Little Lost rivers, Birch, Blue, Medicine Lodge, Beaver and 
 Camas creeks. The mountains drained by these streams rise 
 to an elevation of from 8,000 to 12,000 feet, and are known 
 as the Lost River Mountains, the main range crossing the 
 state from east to west. Not far from the base of these moun- 
 
IDAHO 
 
 151 
 
 tains the waters of the streams sink from sight. Before these 
 creeks were used for irrigation their waters were discharged 
 into shallow lakes on the lower portions of alluvial plains, the 
 lakes being evaporated during the course of the summer from 
 the intense rays of the sun. Nearly the entire flow of these 
 streams is now utilized. Good land is very plentiful, conse- 
 quently the streams are overtaxed and a shortage of water is 
 the rule. There are from seventy-five to eighty ditches taking 
 water from the Big Lost River, the valley being under cultiva- 
 tion for about sixty miles. It is said that it is practicable to 
 divert the water from a fork of the Salmon River into one of 
 
 CAPITOL BUILDING, BOISE, IDAHO. 
 
 the upper branches of that stream. If the scheme is feasible a 
 large territory of very desirable land can be reclaimed. It is es- 
 tUTiated that 5,000 acres of land are now irrigated in this valley. 
 It is advocated by those well acquamted with the country that 
 it is feasible to divert the water of Henry's Fork in the north- 
 east part of Fremont County from a point high enough to cross 
 the divide between Shotgun and Camas creeks. In this terri- 
 tory many thousands of acres of magnificent land could be re- 
 claimed. The great Central Plain, along the north bank of 
 the Snake River, will perhaps always remain in a desert con- 
 dition, bemg used at present as a winter range for cattle and 
 sheep, although the underground flow from the Lost River 
 Mountain streams may be discovered and brought to the sur- 
 face. 
 
152 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 From Blue Lakes to the Oregon state line Snake River is 
 fringed at intervals with small bottom lands, most of them 
 sheltered by the high canyon walls, or bluffs of the upper 
 plateau. Between Blue Lakes and the mouth of Malade River 
 the water supply for these little valleys is obtained from the 
 huge springs which gush out of the north wall of the Snake 
 River Canyon which are thought to be from the Lost and 
 Wood rivers drainage. The flow of these springs is constant, 
 both winter and summer. At Thousand Springs, at the head 
 of the Hagerman Valley, they burst out through a porous 
 stratum covering a distance of one-half mile and fall i8o feet, 
 with the roar of a great cataract, into the valley below. For 
 a distance of nearly ten miles below this point springs of great 
 volume break out, some forming falls of from twenty to eighty 
 feet. Thus what is known as the Snake River Desert, which 
 constitutes a part of Freeman, Bingham, Lincoln and Blaine 
 counties, is explained. The Wood River district in Blaine 
 County, which adjoins the desert, is a very rich district. Though 
 of high altitude, most crops are grown, and stockraising is fol- 
 lowed extensively. The great mining camps at Hailey and 
 Ketchum, the latter being the terminus of the Wood River 
 branch of the Oregon Short Line, are thriving centers of trade. 
 
 Lincoln County. — This county, lying at about the center 
 of the great arid desert, is covered with a heavy sage-brush 
 growth and is not inviting to the eye of the tenderfoot, yet it 
 affords the best of winter range for stock, and is perhaps the 
 very center of the stock interests. The soil is deep and rich, 
 but there is no opportunity for irrigation except immediately 
 adjoining the Snake River, where quite a percentage of the 
 large irrigation district of the Twin Falls Company is lo- 
 cated. It has been advocated strongly that Shoshone Falls 
 should produce the electricity as a power for a vast pumping 
 plant to raise the waters of the Snake River to the height of 
 the plateaus, thus affording relief to a large immediate region. 
 
 A few miles below Shoshone Falls, in the lower or imme- 
 diate valley of the Snake River, there are about i,ooo acres 
 of land which has been reclaimed by water from Blue Lakes, 
 and a considerable portion planted to orchards. This is known 
 as the Blue Lakes or Perrine farm, and has been a medal win- 
 ner at all the great expositions for the excellence of its fruit 
 for several years. There are many other opportunities to win 
 medals if the water can be obtained. There graze every winter 
 
IDAHO 
 
 153 
 
154 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in this county not less than 1,500,000 sheep. Five hundred 
 thousand were shipped in 1902. The majority of the wealth 
 of the county, up to the present time, has been made from 
 the sheep industry. 
 
 Shoshone, a lively little town of 400 inhabitants on the Ore- 
 gon Short Line, has representative stores and banks with a 
 capital in business befitting a much larger place. This is the 
 headquarters of the sheep interests. 
 
 Elmore and Boise Counties. — These two counties are 
 noted for their mineral productions. At Mountain Home and 
 Glenns Ferry, on the Oregon Short Line, in Elmore County, 
 the creeks afiford fine plateaus for irrigating. A new system 
 is being projected at Glenns Ferry by building a canal from 
 Mammoth Springs, referred to before, the water being brought 
 in a six foot wooden pipe and held up by a wire cable sus- 
 pension bridge which carries it across the Snake River. It 
 is expected that this will irrigate 25,000 acres of land. The 
 lands irrigated at Mountain Home are under what is called 
 the Long Tom Reservoir system. 
 
 Boise County has a wonderfully rich valley in every way 
 and is but moderately irrigated. There are very good oppor- 
 tunities here to divert water in a small way. 
 
 Ada and Canyon Counties cover the valleys of the Boise 
 and Payette rivers, which are identical in many ways, the 
 former being the largest body of irrigable land in the south- 
 western part of the state. Here is a great widening of the 
 Snake River plains, there being 634 square miles under ditches 
 completed and projected, a large portion of which is now 
 successfully growing all kinds of crops, especially fruit. The 
 Payette Valley in Canyon County has an altitude of from 2,100 
 to 2,800 feet, the irrigable portion being about twenty miles 
 in length to sixty miles of the Boise Valley. It contains an 
 area of 85,000 acres. The soil is a volcanic sandy loam and 
 very fertile. The interests of Canyon County are quite di- 
 versified, some very large flocks of sheep being found here. 
 The land in these two valleys is perhaps the most valuable 
 in any part of the state, it being no uncommon thing to gather 
 from six year old trees 250 pounds of apples, and from ten 
 year old trees 1,000 to 1,200 pounds. 
 
 Nampa, Caldwell, Palmer and Payette are all on the Oregon 
 Short Line and are thriving places. The State Agricultural 
 Experiment Station is located at Nampa. 
 
 Boise, in Ada County, is the county seat and capital of the 
 
IDAHO 
 
 155 
 
156 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 state. It has a population of 8,068. This city is the business 
 center of the southern part of the state ; the citizens are wide 
 awake business men, and there is no more beautiful and home- 
 like city in all the west. It has all the improvements required 
 by a city of its size — street car service, a really first class 
 hotel, many substantial public buildings and a natatorium, per- 
 haps the finest bathing place west of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 The state capitol presents the trade mark of the state to the 
 visiting public by displaying along the walks leading to it large 
 specimens of gold, silver, galena, and copper ores taken from 
 its mines. There is no better way of advertising its mineral re- 
 sources than this. The government maintains a garrison east 
 of the city, and penitentiary and soldiers' home are located 
 here. The winter climate being mild, many mining and cattle 
 men and transients from other states make this their winter 
 home. 
 
 Washington County lies in the extreme western part of 
 the state, adjoining Oregon. It contains many fertile valleys, 
 the largest of which is the AA^eiser, all of them being well wa- 
 tered and abounding in timber. The Seven Devils mining dis- 
 trict, situated in the northern part of this and in Idaho counties, 
 is proving very rich in copper and gold. A number of large 
 irrigation systems are now in operation and others are pro- 
 jected. The Weiser \'alley, which is irrigated, is the section 
 of country near the town of Weiser on the Oregon .Short 
 Line and the Snake River. This valley has a wide range of 
 products, a mild climate, and is but a continuation of the 
 Payette Valley. 
 
 Weiser has a population of 2,000, two banks, wholesale and 
 retail stores, its buildings being built largely of brick, a col- 
 lege, the largest fruit evaporator in the state, and a large 
 flouring mill. At this point the Oregon Short Line turns to 
 the west and crosses the Snake River into Oregon. 
 
 Idaho County is the largest county in the state, is very cen- 
 trallv located, and extends from the Panhandle on the north 
 well into the southern body of the state. The county covers 
 the westward valley of the Salmon River, the middle and 
 south forks of the Clearwater River, and extends from Montana 
 on the east to Oregon on the west. This county has immense 
 timber areas and a large portion on the eastern side has been 
 set off as a timber reserve. Its mining interests are also large, 
 and there is sufficient rain throughout the northern part to in- 
 sure the maturing of crops. If needed there is ample water for 
 
IDAHO 
 
 IS'i 
 
 AN OPAL MINE, MOSCOW, IDAHO. 
 
158 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 irrigation. This is a part of the famous Clearwater country, 
 consisting of fertile valleys and high prairie plains, and has con- 
 siderable mining activity. There is a quantity of government 
 land to be had and there are perhaps better openings here for 
 those of moderate means than in most parts of the state. There 
 are several thriving towns in the northwestern part, Stites be- 
 ing the terminal of a branch of the Northern Pacific Railway 
 from Lewiston and Spokane. 
 
 Nez Perces and Latah Counties. — These two counties 
 border on southeastern Washington. They cover the upper 
 Palouse Valley, the Potlatch and the lower valley of the Clear- 
 water rivers, and are really a combination of these countries, 
 being a little higher than the main Palouse, and therefore have 
 more rainfall, but irrigation is necessary for raising fruit in 
 the valleys. The wealth of this country is immense in timber, 
 mineral and agricultural products. 
 
 The Lewiston country, at the confluence of the Snake and 
 Clearwater rivers, is the entrance to the central portion of the 
 state. This was the route taken by Lewis and Clark in the 
 early part of the previous century and here to-day stand living 
 monuments to these men in Lewiston, on the Idaho side of 
 the Snake River, and Clarkston, on the Washington side — two 
 thriving towns connected by a magnificent steel wagon bridge 
 over one-third of a mile in length. These towns are located 
 at the only widening of the Snake River Valley for several 
 hundred miles of its tortuous canyoned course, and are the 
 topographical center of a great region and should always enjoy 
 great prosperit}^. Their claim for 1903 is a population of 
 7,500 conjointly, and that the tributary population equals 50,- 
 000. The valley is open prairie and the lands, which are ir- 
 rigated, produce enormously in fruits and other crops. Lewis- 
 ton has the Nez Perces and other orchards and the boats along 
 the rivers transport the wheat which is grown in vast fields on 
 the uplands. The Northern Pacific Railway has entered the 
 city of Lewiston from Spokane and extended a line to Stites in 
 Idaho county ; the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. is build- 
 ing a line up the Snake River, and a movement is on foot 
 to build a new rail route with a Montana connection via the 
 Clearwater Valley. Further, the government has been urged, 
 in the interest of the whole Inland Empire, to improve the 
 Celilo Falls of the Columbia, with a fair prospect of success. 
 This, with some improvement of the Riparia rapids, would give 
 these cities a water communication with the sea. 
 
IDAHO 
 
 159 
 
 Lewiston and Clarkston have many stores, three banks, two 
 newspapers, a United States Land Office, state Supreme Court, 
 and state normal school. They enjoy the advantage of cheap 
 water power from the Grande Ronde Valley in Washington, 
 electrically transmitted, and invite new manufacturing enter- 
 prises in the use of the raw materials of wheat, wool and tim- 
 ber. The town of Clarkston lies in Asotin County, Wash., 
 and the business interests of these two cities, and in fact this 
 whole region, are identified in every way, except politically, with 
 the country to the west. 
 
 Moscow, the county seat of Latah County, is on the North- 
 ern Pacific and the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. railways, 
 and has a population of 5,200. It has paved streets, a state 
 university, flouring 
 mills, and good busi- 
 ness blocks. Other 
 cities are Genesee, 
 Julietta and Kend- 
 rick. 
 
 The prices of land 
 in the Clearwater 
 Basin are about $125 
 per acre for irrigated 
 fruit land, the cost of 
 planting and taking 
 care of it being addi- 
 tional. The uplands, that is the plateau lands, which are 
 adapted to grain raising, bringing from $5 to $15 per acre. 
 
 Shoshone and Kootenai Counties. — These two counties 
 are in the extreme northern part of the state and are known 
 as the Panhandle. They are noted for their mineral wealth, 
 taken mainly from the Coeur d'Alene mines, in the northern 
 part of Shoshone County, and for the manufacture of lumber 
 throughout this entire upper section. Shoshone is the most 
 populous and the wealthiest county in the state. Idaho, in 
 1901, produced as a whole from its mines, a value of $18,000,- 
 000; of this the Coeur d'Alene mines produced $9,500,000. The 
 products of these mines, although silver bearing, carry so much 
 lead that they are in demand at the different smelters through- 
 out the northwest. To-day the names of Wallace, Wardner, 
 Murray and others are prominently known throughout the min- 
 ing world. Fifty per cent of the lead mined in the United 
 
 WHEAT PILED READY FOR SHIPMENT^ 
 NEAR MOSCOW, IDAHO. 
 
160 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 States comes from the Coeur d'Alene Mountains, within a 
 radius of twenty miles of Wallace. These towns are reached 
 by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. from the west, and 
 the Northern Pacific branch from Missoula. 
 
 The St. Joe River district in Kootenai County is the largest 
 lumber district, Harrison, located on that river, having ten saw 
 mills. St. Mary's and Coeur d'Alene river valleys contain large 
 timber tracts. There is a timber area of 2,600 square miles 
 along the Canadian boundary line, which is one of Idaho's 
 greatest forests. The yellow pine, fir, and tamarac along the 
 table lands of the Kootenai and Fend d'Oreille rivers, in the 
 
 LAKE PEND D OREILLE. 
 
 vicinity of Bonners Ferry, constitute the major portion of the 
 available timber of the Fanhandle. 
 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 This state is known as the "Evergreen" state, owing to its 
 dense evergreen forests; also as the "Chinook" state, prob- 
 ably from the use here of what is known as the Chinook lan- 
 guage, a jargon which enabled the Hudson's Bay Co. people 
 and the whites in general . to communicate with the different 
 tribes of Indians. The prevailing moist, westerly wind, known 
 as the Chinook wind, may also have had some influence in nam- 
 ing the state. Washington lies in the extreme northwesterly 
 part of the United States, iDordering the Facific Ocean on the 
 west, Canada on the north, Idaho on the east, and Oregon on 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 161 
 
 the south. The length of the state from east to west is 360 
 miles, and from north to south 240 miles, comprising an area 
 of 69,180 square miles, of which 2,300 square miles is com- 
 prised of water. The census of 1900 gives the population as 
 518,103, which in all probability at the present time is at least 
 700,000. 
 
 Early History. — The earlier discoveries on the coast are 
 previously given in the general history of the I'acific North- 
 west. The present state formed the central part of the Oregon 
 Territorv, and was claimed by both Great Britain and the 
 
 yORT VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON, iSSS- 
 
 United States. It was discovered and the straits named by 
 Juan de Fuca in 1592 ; was visited by- the Spanish in 1775 ; by 
 Captain Cook in 1778; the Columbia River was ascended by 
 Captain Robert Gray in 1792, and the same river traversed 
 by Lewis and Clark in 1805-6. Fur traders established depots 
 at the mouth of the Columbia in 181 1, and later some settle- 
 ment was made in southern Oregon, but the first white people 
 who were not trappers, fur traders, or explorers to come to 
 Washington were the missionaries. Dr. Marcus Whitman and 
 party in 1836-7, who established themselves near the present 
 site of the city of Walla Walla, and the Rev. H. H. Spalding, 
 
1G2 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 who opened a mission at Lapwai. Others came later. The 
 story of Dr. Whitman's famous wagon, on the sides of which 
 was painted "Oregon or the Grave," his labors in educating 
 the Indians, his celebrated ride to the capitol at Washington 
 in midwinter, when he notified the government of the influx 
 of British settlers, his return with many more wagons, and 
 his martyr-like death in 1847, are a part of the history of the 
 great struggle. In 1840 Joel P. Walker arrived with his wife 
 and five children and are entitled to the honor of being the 
 first settlers, for they were actually seeking homes. Dvu"ing 
 the same year some Rocky Mountain men arrived ; in 1841 
 twenty-three families, aggregating sixty-three persons, came 
 from the Red River under the auspices of the Hudson's Bay 
 Co. This caused Whitman to make his long ride across the 
 continent from pure loyalty to his country. A party of 112, 
 under Colonel Lovejoy, came in 1842. From this time on set- 
 tlers arrived yearly with slight interruptions. 
 
 Permanent settlements had now been made, the boundary 
 question had been forced to an issue and decided in 1846, and 
 the territory of Washington was organized in 1853. Tum- 
 water, at the head of Puget Sound, was settled in 1845 I Fort 
 Steilacoom and Port Townsend in 1851 ; Seattle in 1853; and 
 many other pioneer settlements were formed through the suc- 
 ceeding years until the territory was admitted as the forty- 
 second state of the Union on November 11, 1889. 
 
 Topograph V. — The most prominent physical feature of the 
 state is the Cascade Range of mountains, which divides the 
 state into two* unequal sections, differing widely in character- 
 istics, resources and industries. These mountains have an ele- 
 vation of about 8,000 feet, the highest peak being Mount 
 Rainier, or Tacoma, with an altitude of 14,526 feet. It is 
 covered with snow throughout the entire year, and bears sev- 
 eral large glaciers. To the south are Mount St. Helens, 10,- 
 000 feet, and Alount Adams, 12,470 feet, and northward, near 
 the Canadian border. Mount Baker, 11,100 feet. All these 
 mountains carry snow fields both winter and summer. 
 
 The topographical feature of western Washington is that 
 myriad of bays and harbors, a body of land-locked salt water 
 of fully 2,000 square miles in area, with a remarkable length 
 of shore line, known as Puget Sound. This is an enchanting 
 sheet of water, hemmed in on the east by the rugged Cascades 
 and on the west by the serrated Olympics. The scenery is very 
 picturesque, and the changing shades of light and color at 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 1G3 
 
164 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sunset are wonderful. Taking into account the length of the 
 Strait of Juan de Fuca, Olympia, the capital city of the state, 
 situated on the Sound near its head, would be more than 
 200 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The depth of this body of 
 water is such that the largest ocean craft may without trouble 
 reach almost any part. 
 
 Beginning near the northern boundary of the state, the 
 following principal streams flow westward from the Cascade 
 Mountains into Puget Sound : The Nooksachk, Skagit, Snoho- 
 mish, Duwamish, Puyallup, Nisqually, and the Skokomish, 
 from the Olympics in the west. Of these streams the Skagit 
 is the only one which may be truly called a navigable stream. 
 The Chehalis River discharges into Gray's Harbor on the coast 
 and is navigable as far as Montesano. 
 
 In the extreme northwest, surrounded by the Pacific Ocean, 
 the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Sound Basin, are situated 
 the Olympic Mountains. These mountains afford a majestic 
 scene from the water and from any high point along the Sound. 
 They have not been fully explored, owing to their broken char- 
 acter. The sides are often abrupt and the canyons deep, so 
 that of their very interior little is known. Mount OI>'mpus, the 
 highest peak, has an elevation of 8,150 feet. 
 
 The great natural feature draining the entire eastern por- 
 tion of the state and forming a boundary between Washington 
 and Oregon on the south, is the Columbia River. It rises in 
 Canada in two sources, one entering the United States in Mon- 
 tana, the other in eastern Washington, follows a southerly and 
 westerly course to the 46° of latitude, where it turns abruptly 
 to the west and flows to the Pacific Ocean. The Columbia 
 Basin and tributaries include a part of Montana, the entire 
 state of Idaho, all of eastern Washington, and practically all 
 of Oregon. So far as Washington is concerned, its principal 
 tributaries are the Okanogan River, which rises in British Col- 
 umbia and flows southward through Okanogan County ; the 
 Spokane River, which rises in Idaho, flows northwesterly, and 
 joins the Columbia at the eastern elbow of the Great Bend at 
 the junction of Stevens, Ferry and Lincoln counties. This river 
 is noted for its falls at the city of Spokane. The Yakima River 
 rises in the Cascades, flows in a southeasterly course through 
 Kittitas and Yakima counties, its valley being the highway of 
 the Northern Pacific Railway, and reaches the Columbia a few 
 miles above the mouth of the Snake River. Last and the most 
 prominent of all the tributaries, is the Snake River, which rises 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 165 
 
1G6 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 in Yellowstone Park in Wyoming, flows through southern 
 Idaho, then turns northward and in a deep canyon forms the 
 boundary between Idaho and Washington, then turns west- 
 ward, reaching the Columbia a few miles below the mouth of 
 the Yakima. Many smaller tributaries to the Colum- 
 bia — the Methow, Chelan, Entiat, Wenatchee, the valley of 
 the latter being the highway of the Great Northern Railway, 
 and the Klickitat, whose source is the snow of Mount Adams, 
 come in from the western slopes of the Cascades. The Sans 
 Poll and Kettle rivers, rising in British Columbia, flow south 
 through Ferry County. The Columbia has two important trib- 
 utaries coming in west of the Cascades, one the Lewis River, 
 which heads high up on Mount St. Helens, and the Cowlitz, 
 which rises in the glaciers of Mount Rainier. The Northern 
 Pacific uses Cowlitz Valley as a means of reaching the Colum- 
 bia Valley on its line between Tacoma and Portland. 
 
 The Columbia River is the largest in this state and is nav- 
 igable from its mouth to The Dalles, and from Wenatchee to 
 the mouth of the Okanogan. Throughout the remainder of its 
 length the numerous rapids left in the channel cut through the 
 lava bed, making navigation impossible. The falls above The 
 Dalles, known as Celilo, it is believed, can be overcome, and if 
 so, with a moderate expenditure at the Riparia Rapids on the 
 Snake River between Columbia and Whitman counties, nav- 
 igation may be had at perhaps all seasons of the year from the 
 vicinity of Lewiston, Idaho, to the sea. 
 
 Throughout the Cascade and Olympic mountains are many 
 lakes which have been formed by glacial action, and some 
 of them are quite large. The largest is Lake Chelan, in Chelan 
 County. It is a long, narrow and beautiful body of water, ly- 
 ing between high mountains, and has a dep*:h of 1,500 feet. In 
 the mountain regions several lakes occupy old volcanic craters. 
 Two exquisite lakes. Crescent and Sutherland, in the Olympics, 
 are situated about sixteen miles from Port Townsend. They 
 are great sporting resorts for the angler, as indeed are all the 
 mountain lakes. 
 
 East of the Cascade Mountains, in the Columbia Basin, 
 that portion of the state lying along the Canadian boundary 
 and north of the Columbia and Spokane rivers, covering mainly 
 the counties of Okanogan, Ferry, Stevens and Spokane, is 
 known as the Okanogan Highlands. It is generally rolling in 
 character, with long slopes leading down to the river valleys. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 167 
 
 Its height above sea level ranges generally from 6,000 and 
 7,000 feet to less than 1,000 feet along the principal streams. 
 
 The region south of the Columbia and Spokane rivers and 
 east of the Cascades is known as the Great Columbia Plateau, 
 a vast extent of country, built up by many successive flows of 
 lava from a depth of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet. The general 
 surface above the river 
 channels is cjuite level, but 
 occasionally rises into hills, 
 as in the Palouse country, 
 which were probably formed 
 by drifting sand and soil ; 
 the southwesterly portion of 
 these hills being gradual 
 slopes, and the northeasterly 
 portion more abrupt, indi- 
 cating a southwesterly wind 
 as the cause. The rivers in 
 all instances flow in deep 
 canyons made by the erosion 
 of the basalt, which stands 
 out in imposing clifl^s at ev- 
 ery turn. 
 
 The Blue Mountain s, 
 which are a division of them- 
 selves, enter Washington 
 from the south and extend 
 to the Idaho line, occup^dng 
 a very small area in the ex- 
 treme southeastern part of 
 the state. They have been 
 very prominent in shaping 
 the course of the rivers, but 
 are only uplifted portions of 
 the lava beds of the main plateau. The average height is 
 about 6,000 feet, the highest peak being 8,000 feet. 
 
 Climate. — The Cascade Range is high and continues from 
 north to south throughout the state. The prevailing winds are 
 from the Pacific Ocean on the west and carry much moisture at 
 certain seasons of the 3'ear. Owing to the fact that the Cas- 
 cades form a barrier to the passage of the moist clouds east- 
 ward, a wide diversity of climate condition is created between 
 eastern Washington, or the Columbia Basin, and western Wash- 
 
 TlIE -HEART OF THE OLViMPICS. 
 
168 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ington, or the Puget Sound Basin. The waters of Paget Sound, 
 the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Gulf of Georgia, and the Pacific 
 Ocean together have a wonderful equalizing influence upon the 
 temperature, producing a milder and far more equable cli- 
 mate than is usual in other regions in the same latitude. In 
 western Washington the range of the mean temperature for 
 the year is 35° in winter and 65° in summer, or an annual 
 mean of from 50° to 52°, while in eastern Washington it is 
 from 25° in winter to 70° in summer. 
 
 In the Walla Walla country there are hot summers and 
 mild winters, with little snowfall, and short periods of mod- 
 erately cold weather. In the Palouse country and Yakima and 
 Klickitat counties the summer weather is hot and the winters 
 are colder, but with more snow. In Spokane County, the 
 Big Bend country, and Okanogan County, still farther north, 
 all on the east side of the Cascades, the summers are short and 
 hot, and the winters have some cold weather. Spokane has a 
 record of 20°. In the hot spells of summer temperatures of 
 90° and 100° are sometimes reached. Walla Walla has a 
 record of 112°. The locality about Lake Chelan and the 
 valley of the Okanogan has a phenomenally mild winter cli- 
 mate. Lake Chelan never freezes. The mean temperature of 
 Walla Walla and the lower Yakima Valley is from 53° to 54°, 
 ranging from 31° in January to 76° in July; Spokane from 
 46° to 48°, or from 24° in January to 68° in July; Colville, in 
 Stevens County, has a mean temperature of 45° ; Klickitat 
 Count}', next to the Oregon line but east of the Cascades, from 
 50° to 52° ; Kittitas, the upper or westerly part of the Yakima 
 Valley, from 44° to 46° West of the Cascades the temper- 
 ature of the hottest days rarely exceeds 90°, and on the coldest 
 days of winter seldom reaches zero, and then only at the coldest 
 stations. The warmest counties are Pacific, Lewis, Clark and 
 Cowlitz, and the whole of the upper Sound region. The lower 
 Sound region and the straits are cooler, the mean temperature 
 being from 46° to 48° Cool summers and mild winters in 
 western Washington are very apparent. The highest tempera- 
 ture at Seattle is 93° and the lowest 3° At Tacoma there is 
 an annual mean of 50°, ranging from 38° in January to 64° 
 in July. Western Washington as a whole has about the winter 
 climate of Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee, 
 while the summer climate is that of Maine, \^ermont. Northern 
 Michigan and Canada. 
 
 The winters in eastern Washington are neither rigorous nor 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 169 
 
170 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 long, and there is no cold weather except when the winds 
 come from the north or northeast, the air being dry ; the few 
 hot days of summer are not uncomfortable. Eastern Washing- 
 ton as a wliole has a similar winter climate to New York, Mich- 
 igan, Illinois and southern Iowa, and a summer climate simi- 
 lar to that of New York, Michigan and Minnesota, though con- 
 siderably dryer. 
 
 The southerly and westerly winds are prevalent in winter and 
 very mild. The name "Chinook" has been given to this warm, 
 balmy wind, which, rising after every cold spell, dissipates the 
 snow fields as if by magic in the eastern part of the state, leav- 
 ing but little water upon the ground. This phenomenon is ex- 
 plained by the fact that the wind, having lost its moisture on 
 the west side of the Cascades, comes to the eastern territory 
 over a high elevation and descends into the valley as a dry 
 wind. The north and easterly winds in winter are cold and 
 cause much of the snowfall. The opposite of this is true in 
 summer. The southwesterly and northwesterly winds are the 
 prevailing winds of summer and are cool, while the northerly 
 and northeasterly winds are hot in the daytime but cool at 
 night. When the great plains east of the Rocky Mountains 
 are hot during the summer, a wind from the northeast is hot ; 
 when the\' are cold in the winter a wind from that direction is 
 cold. It is only when the Rocky Mountains fail to act as a 
 barrier to the cold winds from the Canadian provinces that 
 cold weather ensues. 
 
 The mountains produce the difference in precipitation in 
 moisture. This precipitation is heaviest near the coast, ranging 
 from sixty to too inches annually. This is called the wet 
 district. Throughout the Sound region it is much less, but 
 gradually increases as the country rises again to the higher 
 summit of the Cascade Mountains. The precipitation here is 
 from twenty-five to sixty inches and is called the moist dis- 
 trict. The drv district is the northern and eastern portion of 
 the state, in which the rainfall is from twelve to twenty-five 
 inches, and the semi-arid region is the main Columbia Plateau, 
 in which the rainfall averages about ten inches. The rains fall 
 usually from November to April, not continuously, however, 
 and a strav shower may fall at any time during the summer, 
 even east of the Cascade Mountains. From the summit of the 
 Cascades over the plateau region the rainfall is largely depend- 
 ent upon the altitude, there being a regular decrease going east- 
 ward, until, on the low plain along the Columbia River, the 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 171 
 
 average precipitation for the year is but ten inches. Continuing 
 eastward, as the country rises, in the most eastern part, the 
 Okanogan Hills, the Palouse country and at the Idaho line, it 
 is from twenty to twenty-five inches annuallx'. It may be said 
 here that a country having a rainfall of ten inches or less is 
 considered arid, or semi-arid ; an average of twenty inches 
 is a good rain belt. 
 
 In the wet district are included the counties of \\'ahkiakum, 
 Pacific, Chehalis, Mason, and the western halves of Jefferson 
 
 A PIECE OF WASHINGTON' TIMBER. 
 
 and Clallam. In the moist district are included the counties of 
 Whatcom, Skagit, Snohomish, San Juan Island, King, Kitsap, 
 Pierce, Thurston, Lewis, Cowlitz, Skamania, and the eastern 
 halves of Jefferson and Clallam. In the dry district are in- 
 cluded the counties of Walla W^alla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin, 
 Whitman, Spokane, Stevens. Ferry, Chelan, the greater part of 
 Lincoln, the eastern half of Adams, the western half of Klicki- 
 tat, the western third of Yakima, the western half of Kittitas, 
 the northwest half of Okanogan, and a strip in the extreme 
 western part of Douglas. In the very dry or semi-arid region, 
 where crops cannot be successfully grown without irrigation. 
 
172 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 are included Franklin county, the eastern two-thirds of Yakima, 
 the eastern halves of Kittitas and Klickitat, the western half 
 of Adams, the southwest part of Lincoln, the southeast half 
 of Okanogan, and nearly the whole of Douglas county. 
 
 The number of clear days annually in western Washington 
 averages 102 for a period of years, and in eastern Washington 
 
 152. 
 
 Resources. — The agricultural resources are varied and ex- 
 tensive, owing to the peculiarly favorable climate and gen- 
 eral richness of the soil. Aside from the mountain re- 
 gions, nearly all of the state is adapted to agriculture, but as 
 yet only a small portion of the tillable land has been brought 
 under cultivation. The soil of the Columbia Basin east of the 
 Cascades is volcanic in character and very rich. It has been 
 produced by the disintegration of the lava formations, pulver- 
 ized to soil by action of the elements or the ice in former ages, 
 and is of a dark color, often shading to a reddish brown where 
 it has lain the longest undisturbed. In some places it is of 
 great depth, even fifty or sixty feet. The soil of the valleys is 
 composed of an alluvial deposit with the volcanic ash, and has 
 an underlying bed of clay. On the high land the soil is more 
 shallow, the texture is slightly coarser grained, is not quite so 
 fertile, tills easily, works up mellow, and is particularly tena- 
 cious of moisture, holding enough in the dry region, gathered 
 from the winter and spring snow and rainfall, to mature grain 
 without further aid in summer. These lands comprise the im- 
 mense wheat areas, and have long been cropped, producing 
 abundantly. It would appear that this volcanic soil has all of 
 the necessary mineral salts to produce a wide range of crops 
 and that it apparently is inexhaustible. The arid valleys of the 
 eastern slope of the Cascades are particularly adapted to hor- 
 ticultural products, and the arid plains are producing the 
 cereals without irrigation, notably in Whitman and Lincoln 
 counties, the latter being the banner wheat county of the 
 United States. The total product of wheat in the state of 
 Washington was 23,672,187 bushels in 1902. The average 
 yield of wheat throughout the general wheat raising country 
 has been twenty-three bushels per acre, which has 3'ielded a 
 good profit to the farmer, as there is a very large area which 
 can yet be cultivated without the aid of irrigation, and by the 
 adaptiveness of the soil to this cereal it would seem that the 
 production would increase and continue for a long time to 
 come. There are now about 2,000,000 acres planted to wheat 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 173 
 
174 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 on irrigated land. The system of cropping is different in many 
 instances from that of the east : the most successful seems to 
 be the system of summer fallowing, one-half of the farm being 
 cropped every other year, the other half being plowed in the 
 summer and allowed to clean itself. In this way the yield is 
 nearly doubled, with the expense of only one harvest. Oats, 
 barle^', rye and flax all do well. A large portion of the wheat 
 is exported to England and grades well with wheat from other 
 parts of the world. 
 
 patkon'izi:;g a wesiek.n caterer. 
 
 On the western slopes the types of soil are entirely different, 
 the most valuable, perhaps, laeing those found on the alder 
 bottoms. This soil is a loose loam, very rich in organic matter, 
 and when properly handled produces immense crops of almost 
 anything the farmer may desire to grow. This land, however, 
 is quite- limited in area. Another class of land may be called 
 semi-peat land, and there are extensive deposits of sand land. 
 The sand is usually mixed with clay and grows all kinds of 
 crops. The river valleys are well cultivated, being very rich. 
 The rainfall makes hay a good paying crop and dairy conditions 
 excellent. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 175 
 
 Hops are raised with great success in the Puyalhip, White, 
 Snoqualmie, Nooksachk and other river valleys, and also in 
 the Yakima Valley in eastern Washing-ton. Enormous quan- 
 tities of hops are produced and buyers come to purchase from 
 foreign countries. 
 
 
 
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 CUTTING DOWX A FIR IKr.L IN WESrKKX WASHINGTON. 
 
 The soil and climate of eastern Washington are especially 
 favorable to sugar beet culture. A factory has been estab- 
 lished at Waverley, Spokane County, and it is predicted the 
 production will reach 10,000.000 pounds annually. This in- 
 dustry just at present is attracting considerable attention. 
 
 Dairy farming is well established and has reached a stage 
 of great commercial importance, the value of the various prod- 
 
176 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ucts for i9po being considerably over $1,000,000. The busi- 
 ness is well organized, is under the auspices of the State 
 College of Agriculture, and is regulated by law. So 
 much of the state being adapted to alfalfa, clover, which 
 springs up in every clearing, and the different grasses, 
 with plenty of clear water from the mountains, there 
 is no reason why the dairy interests should not in- 
 crease rapidly. The prices for all dairy products in Washing- 
 ton are good, as the demand is greater than the supply, a 
 large amount every year being shipped in from the East. Root 
 crops are not only profitable to the small gardener in every way, 
 but are a great aid to the dairyman. The majority of the 
 creameries of the state are located west of the Cascade Range, 
 but there are dairy sections in the eastern part of the state, 
 the Okanogan Highlands and the irrigated regions of Ya- 
 kima and Walla Walla counties and the lower Paiouse. 
 
 Stock. — Stock-raising in the eastern part of the state has be- 
 come extensive and profitable. Two-thirds of eastern and a 
 large part of western Washington is adapted to grazing ; cattle, 
 horses and sheep are raised in large numbers, and Angora 
 goats have been given a good start, with a promise of becoming 
 very profitable. There is a fine herd of full-blood Herefords 
 in Yakima County. The State Agricultural College also has 
 the nucleus of a herd, and there are several small herds of 
 Polled Angus in the state, and several large show herds of 
 shorthorns, which strain is the largest represented. The fa- 
 mous bunch grass flourishes in the Okanogan Highlands to a 
 marked degree, and further south on some of the other high- 
 lands east of the Cascades, but on the main plateau the wild, 
 or natural growth, of vegetation is sage brush. The 
 bunch grass has contributed much wealth to the busi- 
 ness of stockraising. Large fortunes have been made 
 in grazing sheep on the public land solely for the 
 wool clipped, the same as has been done in many of 
 the other states. \\'ashington is adapted to sheep raising, 
 but the settlement of the state is cutting up the ranges, as it 
 is doing for the cattle man, so that the flocks are becoming 
 curtailed ; but of late years the sheep have been sold to good 
 advantage for mutton, and the disposition is now to own smaller 
 flocks of better bloods and give them better care. Washington 
 has done quite a business in fattening hogs on wheat, alfalfa, 
 and orchard windfalls. It is a common custom to turn hogs 
 on the stubble after the grain is cut, and they often have no 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 177 
 
 19 
 
178 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 other food than this and come out in good condition for market. 
 
 Horticulture. — Throughout the greater portion of the 
 state both climate and soil are highly favorable to horticulture, 
 but the localities most widely known for excellence are along the 
 Snake, Yakima, Wenatchee and lower Columbia rivers and Pu- 
 get Sound. In every section the apple is the leading fruit. All 
 the fruits common to the temperate zone are raised in western 
 Washington, especially the prune, of which there are extensive 
 orchards, and an abundance of high grade cherries. In eastern 
 Washington peaches, apricots and grapes do well, as do prunes 
 and other fruits. The climatic conditions are such, the temper- 
 ature being free from the extremes of heat and cold, yet being 
 sufficiently variable to afford nature the requirements to pro- 
 duce fruits of good size and flavor, as to make fruit culture a 
 very profitable industry. In consequence the fruits of the state 
 constitute a most important source of wealth. 
 
 The shot clay soils, where there is sufficient depth before 
 reaching hard pan, sandy soils, with a proper mixture of clay, 
 and the volcanic ash soils, with an admixture of sand in a 
 moderate degree with sufficient water, are the leading soils for 
 fruit culture. The soils of western Washington are usually 
 high in phosphoric acid and nitrogen, but have a lower average 
 of potash and lime than the soils of eastern Washington. On 
 the other hand, the soils of eastern Washington stand high 
 in potash and lime, but are much lower in phosphoric and nitro- 
 gen. Potash is generally the most important element to be ap- 
 plied directly to orchards, particularly after trees have reached 
 bearing age. Available potash in the soil is much increased by 
 tillage. 
 
 Timber. — The forests of the state constitute a most import- 
 ant source of wealth. They comprise nearly 50,000 square 
 miles, or about seventy-one per cent of the entire land area, 
 and extend from the Pacific Ocean to the Cascade Range, in- 
 cluding the eastern slope and a portion of the state east and 
 north, or the northern slopes of the Okanogan Hills. Near 
 the summit of the Cascades, on the western slope, where the 
 rainfall is greatest, the trees stand very close together on the 
 ground, as straight as arrows, and run more than 100 feet to 
 the first limb. It is estimated there is more timber in this state 
 than in the combined states of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne- 
 sota, and more than in all of the yellow pine states of the south. 
 Professor Henry Gannett, Chief of the Division of Forestry, 
 U. S., says that with the exception of the redwood forests of 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 179 
 
180 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 California, the forests of western Washington are among the 
 densest, heaviest and most continuous in the United States. 
 The trees are large, reaching from twelve to fifteen feet in 
 diameter and to 250 feet in height. The timber is mainly red 
 or yellow fir (Douglas), mingled with spruce, hemlock, and 
 cedar. The total amount of timber in the state is estimated 
 at 114,778,000,000 feet. Of this more than nine-tenths is 
 west of the Cascade Range, the remainder being upon its east- 
 ern slope and in the northern and eastern part of the state. 
 East of the Cascade Range the forests consist mainly of pine, 
 and west of the Cascade Range the Douglas fir forms nearly 
 two-thirds of the entire forest. The stand is heaviest in Skagit 
 County ; the next heaviest is in Wahkiakum County. In west- 
 ern Washington the average stand is 18,000 feet per acre; in 
 eastern Washington it is but 1,200 feet. The entire area of 
 the nineteen counties of western Washington is 24,900 square 
 miles. Of this area, but little more than one-third is regarded 
 as containing merchantable timber, twenty per cent has been 
 cut, 22.5 per cent has been destroyed by fire, and the remainder, 
 57.5 per cent is still covered with standing timber. It appears 
 that since lumbering began in this region there have been cut 
 from it 36,000,000,000 feet, that destroyed by fire amounting 
 to 40,000,000,000 feet, with about the same proportion in east- 
 ern Washington. Upon the west shores of Puget Sound, and 
 as far southward as the Columbia River, as well as throughout 
 the eastern slope of the Cascade Range, the forests are prac- 
 tically of Douglas fir. Spruce is most abundant immediately 
 upon the coast ; cedar increases westward, toward the coast, 
 and reaches a maximum immediately on the coast, where it 
 ranges from one-half to one-fourth of the forest. Hemlock 
 forms quite a noticeable proportion of the forests in the coast 
 ranges and in the northwestern part of the Olympic Peninsula. 
 Professor Gannett's estimate of the standing timber of the state 
 is as follows: Fir, 68,362,971,000; cedar, 16,309,453,000; 
 hemlock, 14,848,259,000; pine, 6,586,520,000; spruce, 6,419,- 
 215,000; larch, 2,780,601,000; Oak, 3,700,000. 
 
 The fir timber is manufactured into lumber and shipped to 
 California, Alaska, and many parts of the world by water. 
 This timber has nearly as great a tenacity as oak ; the cedar is 
 manufactured into shingles and shipped to all parts of the 
 United States, having gained a great reputation for durability. 
 The other timber is used in various ways, and the hemlock is 
 about to be used for tanning. The largest number of mills in the 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 181 
 
 state are located in Snohomish County. The total number of 
 mills in the state at the last estima*^'" was 444, with a daily 
 capacity of 9,380,000 feet of lumber and 28,700,000 shingles. 
 In the entire industries there were employed in mills, logging 
 camps and allied industries, 24,000 men, receiving $14,260,000 
 in annual wages. The 1900 census gives the lumber traffic as 
 follows : Domestic, water, and rail shipments, over 380,000,000 
 feet; foreign, over 155,000,000 feet; 270 shingle mills are 
 making cedar shingles, with a daily capacity of 29,000,000. 
 Shingle shipment for the year 1900 was 3,560,100,000. Exten- 
 
 
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 Kl 
 
 
 DRAWING IN THE SEINE. 
 
 sive forest reserves have been made by the United States gov- 
 ernment, and the patrol of these will no doubt add to the safety 
 of the present standing merchantable timber. 
 
 Mining. — Valuable deposits of the different metals exist in 
 both eastern and western Washington, but so far the develop- 
 ment has been slow as compared with other mining states. 
 There are known mineral belts extending from the Blue Moun- 
 tains to the northern counties and from Stevens County across 
 to Whatcom and Bellingham Bay and all along the Cascades. 
 In Stevens and Ferry counties, where the Republic Mines are 
 located, in Okanogan, where active work is progressing, in 
 
182 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Chelan and in Kittitas, mines have been producing since 1872. 
 Ledges have been found in Pierce, Lewis and CowHtz counties. 
 The Mount Baker and Slate Creek districts are very active, 
 producing free gold with some tellurium. Skagit County has 
 some promising silver and lead mines. Snohomish County has 
 the copper belt, which is supposed to cross the state north and 
 south, and new and large districts have been found at Mount 
 St. Helens. At Monte Cristo a concentrator, capable of han- 
 dling 250 tons per day, is now in operation. There are a large 
 number of mines in this district. The Great Republic and 
 other mines are located in the Miller district in King County. 
 The great trouble in most of these counties has been the lack 
 of transportation. When roads are built the mining industry 
 will take on a new impetus. The iron in Skagit and Snohomish 
 counties is very extensive. Excellent building sandstone is 
 found in inexhaustible quantities north of Spokane and near 
 the sound, notably at Tenino. 
 
 The state is rich in bituminous coal, and in 1902 there were 
 mined 2,418,034 tons. It is of high grade and is shipped by 
 water, largely to the south, supplying California and some 
 foreign markets. At Roslyn, Kittitas County, there were em- 
 ployed 1,090 men in 1900, and the mines produced 867,204 
 tons. King County, with fourteen mines, produced 853,- 
 295 tons. Pierce County has six mines, which produced 
 595,605 tons. Skagit and Whatcom counties produced 56,830 
 tons. 
 
 Fisheries. — The fishing industry is one of the principal re- 
 sources of the state of Washington, having in 1900 an in- 
 vested capital of $4,362,470, employing nearly 8,000 persons, 
 who earned $2,121,485. The value of the output was $4,357,- 
 753. The output has exceeded $6,000,000 in a single year. 
 This, of course, refers to the salmon fisheries and canneries. 
 The cannery at Fairhaven is claimed to be the largest in the 
 world. The salmon migration to the spawning grounds, at the 
 sources of the rivers, occurs during the spring, summer and 
 fall months, a different variety running each season. Enor- 
 mous schools of salmon then enter the Sound and rush up the 
 river. The salmon are caught for the canneries chiefly in 
 traps and with gill nets. The trap is a bewildering arrange- 
 ment of piling, wire webbing, nets and ropes, to form the 
 "lead," the "pot, ' the "tunnel," the "harts" and the "spiller," 
 and must be seen to be understood. After they are in the trap, 
 the salmon are "brailed" by steam into scows by hundreds, 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 183 
 
 which are towed to the canneries. They are put up in cans 
 after being cooked, largely by Chinese help, and shipped to all 
 parts of the world, London taking perhaps the largest share. 
 The salmon is really the king fish of the Pacific Coast, but 
 there are many other fish which are caught and shipped to San 
 Francisco and other markets in the east. Halibut fishing off 
 Cape Flattery is carried on very extensively. Shell-fish abound 
 in the waters, and the oyster industry and the canning of clams 
 is considerable. The native oyster beds are located at Olympia ; 
 the oyster is very small, very sweet and palatable, and is in 
 
 « WESTERN FREIGHT TEAM. 
 
 great demand. At Willapa Harbor and on the Sound eastern 
 oysters have been planted and grown with success. 
 
 The State Fish Commissioner reports twenty-one canneries 
 operating in Puget Sound in 1902, five on the Columbia River, 
 Washington side ; three on Willapa Harbor, and one on Grays 
 Harbor. There were 7,615 whites and 2,055 Chinese and Jap- 
 anese employed in the fish industry— which includes fresh, 
 smoked and shelled fish — whose earnings amounted to $2,500.- 
 000. The total output was 777,484 cases, and the value $4^034!- 
 685. To avoid the depletion of the salmon, hatcheries have 
 been established in the Puget Sound district on the Nook- 
 sachk, Skokomish, Samish, Snohomish, White, Nisqually, Stil- 
 laguamish and Dungeness rivers and the Columbia River dis- 
 
184 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 trict at Kalama, Kalama eyeing station, Chinook, Wenatchee, 
 Wind, Methow, Colville, Little Spokane, Klickitat, and on the 
 coast, at Willapa and Chehalis. The number of young fry 
 hatched and turned out in 1902 was 84,518,405. 
 
 COUNTIES. 
 
 Stevens County. — This county is the most northeasterly 
 county of the state, and has an area of 3,800 square miles and 
 a population of 10,543. It embraces a part of the Selkirk range 
 of mountains of British Columbia, and its topography is broken 
 by wooded hills and ranges. The county is divided into three 
 districts. The Columbia River forms a greater part of the 
 western boundary, its valley varying from three to fifteen miles 
 in width. Here horticulture is practiced very successfully. 
 The Colville and branch valleys extend through the center of 
 the county, from three to five miles in width, and are noted for 
 stockraising. Grain and fruit do well. In the eastern part 
 of the county is the Pend d'Oreille Valley, which is noted for 
 its natural meadows, and is very attractive to those desiring 
 to enter the dairying industry. The scenic beauty of the Box 
 Canyon of this river is unrivaled. Good government land on 
 the benches and smaller valleys may yet be obtained. Timber 
 is abundant, and sawmills are in operation. There are several 
 water powers which can be developed. Kettle Falls, of the Co- 
 lumbia, which has a descent of thirty-five feet, with its immense 
 volume of water, makes one of the largest water powers in 
 the west. The Falls of the Pend d'Oreille have been utilized. 
 Myers Falls, on the Colville, inside of one-eighth of a mile, de- 
 scends 185 feet, and the main falls eighty feet. There is a 
 sawmill and flouring mill at the latter falls, but otherwise they 
 are undeveloped. 
 
 The Great Northern Railway extends the entire length of 
 the Colville Valley, and continues north along the Columbia 
 River to Nelson, B. C. It also crosses the Columbia River at 
 the mouth of the Kettle River, and follows the latter to the 
 boundary line and countrv on the new route to A^ancouver, 
 B. C. 
 
 The Metaline mining district, in the northeastern part, is the 
 largest, though there is considerable mineral development in 
 dift'erent parts. There is a smelter at Northport. The mineral 
 region seems to be part of the rich Columbia district to the 
 north. Marble and onyx have been discovered in paying quan- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 185 
 
 titles near Valley and other localities. Perhaps no place in the 
 Northwest afifords the sportsman a better opportunity for 
 hunting the mountain lion, cougar, elk, bear and deer, several 
 varieties of each being represented ; caribou are also found, 
 and trout are plentiful. Colville, the county seat, is an impor- 
 tant mining center, and has churches, a bank, a newspaper and 
 several sawmills. Population, 1, 060. Clayton is the seat of a 
 large pottery establishment, Northport of a smelting plant, 
 while Kalispell and Colville have creameries. 
 
 Ferry County lies along the boundary line west of Stevens 
 
 INDI.\N CA.MP, SPOKANE Rr\'ER. 
 
 County, and has a population of 4,552. The county is moun- 
 tainous ; the chief industry has been mining, and the section 
 is very rich in minerals, the Republic district being especially 
 celebrated. The Great Northern has been built to Republic 
 from Grand Forks, and mining has received a great impetus. 
 The southern part of the county is still in the Colville Indian 
 Reservation. The Sans Foil River runs south to the Columbia 
 through a considerable part of the county, many small streams 
 run eastward to the Columbia, and the Kettle River, coming in 
 from British Columbia, drains the northern part of the county, 
 makes a big bend, passing out again and then returning, thus 
 forming the eastern boundary to the Columbia River. The 
 
186 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Boundary Country, north and south of the boundary Hne, is 
 rich in minerals and has some good agricultural valleys, espe- 
 cially along the Kettle River. All cereals are grown, and 
 bunch grass affords good pasturage. Grand Forks, on the 
 Great Northern, the junction of the branches of the Kettle 
 River, is the most promising town, while Republic, the county 
 seat of Ferry County, is the liveliest place in all the upper 
 territory and has a population of 3,318. 
 
 Okanogan County. — This county lies along the boundary 
 line between Ferry County and the summit of the Cascades 
 on the west. It has an area of 4,300 square miles and a popu- 
 lation of 4,689. The southern half of the county is still included 
 in the Colville Indian Reservation, but is open to mining. The 
 two main rivers of the county are the Okanogan, which is quite 
 a large river, rising in British Columbia and receiving the Samil- 
 kameen soon after they each enter the United States, and run- 
 ning nearly in a southerly direction to the Columbia ; and the 
 Methow River, which rises in the Cascades, near the boundary, 
 and runs in a generally southerly course, entering the Columbia 
 below the mouth of Okanogan on the west. The county for the 
 most part is mountainous, and its wealth consists chiefly in 
 its mineral deposits, its timber lands and its stock ranges. It 
 has considerable timber, consisting of pine, fir, cedar, larch 
 and tamarack ; the foothills of the Cascades are heavily tim- 
 bered. The valley of the Okanogan River embraces about 
 one-third of the county. The tillable lands consist of the river 
 bottoms proper and the benches, which are very fertile ; irri- 
 gation is required in the valley, but the high lands in the eastern 
 part of the county have sufficient rain. Several mines are being 
 operated in the county, and many others will be developed as 
 soon as the proposed extension of the Great Northern Railway 
 is made up the valley of the Columbia River. On the Twitsp 
 River, a branch of the Methow, good coal is found. 
 
 Conconully, the county seat, is now reached by Columbia 
 River boats from Wenatchee and connecting stage lines. In 
 addition to the proposed Great Northern line referred to, an- 
 other line contemplated is through the northern part of the 
 county, crossing the Okanogan River at Oroville and con- 
 tinuing up the valley of the Samilkameen. This would traverse 
 the line of Bonaparte Creek. 
 
 As only the north half of the Colville Reservation, occupy- 
 ing the north half of Ferry and Okanogan counties, is open 
 to settlement, it will be treated with the county. This territory 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 187 
 
188 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is about seventy miles in length, east and west, and about thirty- 
 five miles north and south ; the eastern half is mountainous and 
 the agricultural valleys small ; the western half is a combination 
 of mountain, hill, tableland and valley. Mount Bonaparte being 
 the center. The Okanogan Valley is 800 feet above sea level ; 
 the table lands have about 3,500 feet elevation. The soil is 
 varied ; in the valley it is generally sandy, being in some places 
 a volcanic ash and in others a wash. Along the larger creek 
 valleys it is a wash, often with gravel sub-soil ; on the table- 
 lands it is a deep, black loam, where bunch grass grows abun- 
 dantly. The climate of the Okanogan Valley is mild in winter, 
 but to the eastward it is higher, more moist and colder. 
 
 Spokane County. — This is the most easterly of the second 
 tier of counties lying east of the Cascade Mountains. It has 
 an area of 1,680 square miles, and a population of 57,542. Its 
 topography is hilly in the southern and broken and mountainous 
 in the northern part, with numerous streams flowing through 
 deep ravines. Its principal stream is the Spokane River, which 
 rises in Idaho, runs in a generally northwest course to the Co- 
 lumbia, and at Spokane descends in a series of falls, afford- 
 ing a magnificent water power. The southern portion of the 
 county is well adapted to agriculture and a large acreage is 
 devoted to wheat raising. Horticulture is an important indus- 
 try, several thousand acres being set out to orchards, which 
 produce a fine quality of fruit. There are about 75,000 acres 
 of irrigated land in the county, mostly near the city of Spokane. 
 Horse and cattle raising and dairying are important indus- 
 tries. Two creameries in the county manufactured in 1900 
 nearly 300,000 pounds of butter and 138,000 pounds of cheese. 
 
 A remarkable feature of this county is Medical Lake, which 
 is situated at an altitude of 2,800 feet, and is a very popular 
 resort, owing to the medicinal qualities of its waters. The East- 
 ern Washington Hospital for the Insane is located here. This 
 lake is reached by the Northern Pacific. 
 
 The Great Northern Railway and the Northern Pacific tra- 
 verse this county from east to west, and a branch of the Great 
 Northern runs to Nelson, in British Columbia, and to the Boun- 
 dary Country. The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company 
 connects Spokane with the Oregon Short Line at Huntington 
 and the Southern Pacific line at Portland, Ore. 
 
 At Cheney is located the State Normal School, and at Wa- 
 verley is the only beet sugar factory in the State of Washing- 
 ton. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 180 
 
190 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County, and has a 
 population of 36,848 (1900), being the third largest city of 
 the state, and the distributing point for all the country be- 
 tween the Rocky and Cascade Mountains, thereby earning its 
 title of the "Metropolis of the Inland Empire." In 1872 it was 
 nameless, with a population of three squatters and a few men 
 who worked in a primitive sawmill. Today it has a population 
 of 50,000 people, is handsomely built, well lighted and possesses 
 prominent modern business blocks, fine hotels, manufacturing 
 establishments, ninety miles of graded streets, the main thor- 
 oughfare being paved with asphalt; forty miles of street rail- 
 way, twenty-three bridges spanning the river, nineteen school 
 buildings, high grade schools, private colleges, two daily news- 
 papers — morning and evening — which have a wide circulation ; 
 nine weeklies and six monthlies. All the religious denom- 
 inations are represented. Its magnificent water power 
 has been developed and is capable of operating many large 
 factories. Electric power is furnished large flour and saw- 
 mills, iron works, foimdries and factories, and is also trans- 
 ferred to the Coeur d'Alene mines and other places a hundred 
 miles distant. 
 
 The city is situated in a beautiful valley 1,900 feet above sea 
 level, and is as much a residence as it is a manufacturing and 
 jobbing city. The climate is very healthful, the highest temper- 
 ature being 104°, in i8g8, and the lowest of later years 13°, in 
 1896, or a mean of 48° The annual average precipitation was 
 18.17 inches. The city has been prosperous agriculturally, 
 commercially and in the mines, the Inland Empire producing 
 annually $25,000,000 from its mines and nearly $20,000,000 
 from its wheat. The Interstate Fair, which is held annually 
 at Spokane, bears evidence of the high-grade products of the 
 territory. 
 
 It is estimated that during the month of March, 1902, 10,000 
 people came to the Inland Empire to look for homes, and that 
 during the month of April of the same year 6,830 stopped at 
 Spokane. Much land has been taken up, but it is estimated 
 that there is a large amount yet lying in Douglas and Okanogan 
 counties which is available. 
 
 The magnificent water power in the heart of the city, with 
 the mines to east and the north and the Palouse and the Big 
 Bend countries to the south and west, certainly promise Spo- 
 kane a bright future. It must be the railroad center, the bank- 
 ing center and the commercial center of this region. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 191 
 
192 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Lincoln County. — This county lies west of Spokane, has an 
 area of 2,300 square miles and a population of 11,969. The 
 county is traversed by the Great Northern and Northern Pa- 
 cific railroads. The southwestern part of the county is com- 
 paratively level, but near the Spokane and Columbia rivers 
 there appear many ridges that are covered with timber. The 
 soil is good in all parts of the county, and splendid crops of 
 wheat, oats, barley, rye and the other cereals and the hardier 
 fruits are grown. This county divides with Whitman County 
 the title of being the banner wheat county of the United States, 
 each having alternately produced the largest crop, the crop for 
 1902 being estimated at 7,500,000, or about 900 bushels for 
 every man, woman and child in the county ; this would be 
 about $450 per capita. 
 
 Davenport, the county seat, is situated on the Northern Pa- 
 cific Railway, and has a population of 2,000. Other towns are 
 Wilbur, Odessa, Harrington and a number of smaller ones. 
 
 Douglas County. — This county is situated west of Lincoln 
 County, has an area of 4,500 square miles, and a population of 
 4,926. It is a prairie county, the eastern part being a high, 
 level plateau of about 2,500 feet elevation, with a mild cli- 
 mate and a sufficient moisture to raise crops without irrigation. 
 In some parts of the county water cannot be obtained except at 
 a considerable depth, and not long ago large areas could have 
 been bought for a song which today are bringing $10 per acre, 
 and are raising bountiful crops. 
 
 The two coulees traversing this county from northeast to 
 southwest, the larger one being known as Grand Coulee, and 
 extending for a distance of sixty miles, with walls from 200 
 to 1,000 feet in height and from three to five miles in width, are 
 topographical features which attract widespread attention. It 
 is the geological theory that these coulees are the prehistoric 
 beds of the Columbia River. There are many interesting things 
 to be seen in Grand Coulee ; among them is the Steamboat 
 Rock, which resembles a steamboat, and rises 1,000 feet in the 
 air, being three miles in length and a half a mile in width. Near 
 the head of the coulee is Soap Lake, about a quarter of a mile 
 in width, with water most beautiful to the sight, but very 
 repulsive to the taste. It will cleanse soiled clothes without 
 soap, and seems to have some remarkable medicinal qualities. 
 
 This county is the very heart of the basaltic region, and in 
 many places where its cliffs are picturesque it looks uninviting 
 from an agricultural standpoint. The soil is disintegrated lava, 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 193 
 
 13 
 
194 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 and has the characteiistic of producing a crop of from twenty- 
 five to fift}' bushels per acre without rain from seed time to 
 harvest. The soil in many instances here is sixty feet in depth. 
 In the southern part of the county on the lowlands large herds 
 of cattle and horses graze. This should make a good section 
 for irrigating. All the valleys bear fruit, and there are many 
 fine orchards. There is an opportunity to obtain some govern- 
 ment land in this county or to buy cheap lands at second hand 
 in the western part. The Great Northern Railway crosses 
 the whole county from east to west, and the Northern Pacific 
 branch is extended westward from Spokane to Pilot Rock, near 
 the center. This county and Lincoln County, with Franklin 
 and Adams to the south, are known as the Big Bend Country. 
 Waterville, the county seat, is situated in the western part 
 of the county, six miles from the Columbia River, and is reached 
 by stage line from Wenatchee. It has a sawmill, bank, graded 
 school, three weekly papers and a population of 875. 
 
 Chelan County. — This county lies mainly west of Douglas 
 County, has an area of 2,000 square miles, and a population of 
 3,931. It lies on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains, 
 extending down to the Columbia River, covering Lake Chelan 
 and the Entiat and Wenatchee valleys. The latter valley is 
 used by the Great Northern Railway in making the rise from 
 the Columbia River to the summit of the Cascade on its way 
 to Puget Sound. 
 
 The Wenatchee Valley is famous for its fruits and vege- 
 tables. The orchards produce very large and perfect fruit, 
 including apples, apricots, peaches, grapes, pears and plums. 
 These are shipped to Sound points, and as far east as St. Paul 
 and Chicago. There is quite a snowfall in the foothills, but 
 irrigation is required in the valley, where the soil is very rich, 
 and the valley is well protected. There is ample water, and 
 several ditches are diverted with other large ones. The high 
 line ditch of the Wenatchee Canal Company takes water twenty 
 miles above the mouth of the river, and is able to supply water 
 for the entire valley lands. This ditch cost $175,000, has one 
 tunnel 800 feet long and several long distances of flume. The 
 valley contains about 50,000 acres of irrigable land, of which 
 about 5,000 or less are as yet under cultivation. This valley 
 has no frost, and raises peaches, melons, tomatoes and straw- 
 berries, and the earliness of the crops makes good prices. The 
 lands under the ditch are being offered at from $150 to $200 per 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 195 
 
 :±^jil^ 
 
 TLUME OF THE HIGH LINE DITCH, WENATCHEE VALLEY, WASHINGTON. 
 
196 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 acre ; bee culture is coming into the valley, and tobacco prom- 
 ises to be a successful product. 
 
 The town of Wenatchee, situated at the junction of the 
 Wenatchee and Columbia rivers, is the county seat, and is said 
 to be within a mile of the exact center of the state. To-day it 
 has a population of about 1,500. In 1902 it shipped 1,000,000 
 bushels of wheat, brought down the Columbia River by steam- 
 boat. To receive this and other freight there are large ware- 
 houses at this point, as the steamboating of the upper Columbia 
 begins here. The city has a fine brick school building and 
 courthouse, a 250-barrel flour mill, and some good residences. 
 This being the shipping point on the Great Northern for a 
 vast country to the north, as many as 1,000 boxes of fruit have 
 been waiting at the depot for a shipment by express in one day. 
 
 Mission, a very romantically situated town on the Great 
 Northern, sixteen miles above Wenatchee, is a great fruit cen- 
 ter. This town has had a wonderful growth, and now supports 
 several stores, a sawmill, a bank, etc. Leavenworth, farther 
 up the valley, is the end of the Mountain Division of the Great 
 Northern Railway. 
 
 The length of the Entiat Valley is about seventy-five miles, 
 and one-half of its length is available for homes. The most of 
 the land has been taken, but it can be bought for reasonable 
 prices. 
 
 Lake Chelan lies in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains, 
 is 1,075 f^6t above sea level, sixty-five miles long, with a width 
 of from one to four miles and a depth of 1,500 feet, and its 
 waters are as clear as crystal. This lake is becoming quite a 
 noted summer resort, the grand scenery, high mountains, snow- 
 capped peaks reflected in the water, and the ever-changing 
 scene making a trip very enchanting. The lake is open to nav- 
 igation at all seasons of the year, for it never freezes. There 
 is a hotel at the head of the lake to accommodate the public, 
 and there are also good camping grounds at various points and 
 at the head of the lake within sight of the glaciers. The only 
 level lands are near the lower end of the lake. The soil is very 
 productive in everything, especially fruit, as the climate and its 
 general sheltered condition make everything favorable to hor- 
 ticulture. 
 
 There is a wide mineral belt in this county, which bids fair 
 to have great value in gold and copper. The lake empties into 
 the Columbia through the Chelan River, which has a fall of 
 400 feet, with a tremendous volume of water, making one of 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 197 
 
198 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the finest water powers in the country, and which is now being 
 developed. Chelan Falls, at the mouth of the Chelan River, 
 is a shipping point for Big Bend wheat. Lakeside is the 
 foot of navigation on the lake. Chelan is on the river by the 
 same name, and is an incorporated town. Stehekin is situated 
 at the head of the lake. 
 
 Whitman County and the Palouse Country. — Whitman 
 is the most easterly of the third tier of counties, is bounded on 
 the north by Spokane and the south by the Snake River, and, 
 with Latah County, Idaho, covers the valley of the Palouse 
 River, and forms what is known as the Palouse Country. The 
 county was named for Dr. Marcus Whitman, the missionary, 
 and has an area of 2,262 square miles. In 1900 it had a popu- 
 lation of 25,360, but many settlers having since then come in, 
 the population is now more than 30,000. Practically all the 
 land is tillable, and more than one-half is under cultivation. 
 The elevation in the western part is about 1,100 feet, gradually 
 rising in the eastern part to 2,600 feet, which gives a rainfall 
 ranging from twelve to thirty inches. The surface consists of 
 an upland plateau, of rolling prairie or hills and valleys, which 
 is far-famed for its wheat production, this county for a long 
 time being known as the banner wheat county, which title it 
 now divides with Lincoln County, in the Big Bend Country. 
 Oats, barley, cattle, horses, hogs and fruit all do well, as do 
 apples, prunes, plums, pears and hardy peaches. There are 
 many thrifty orchards in this county. 
 
 Professor Dumas, of the Agricultural College at Pullman, 
 gives the following as the cost of a four-year-old orchard, with 
 land at $25 per acre, the trees commencing to bear at four 
 years : 
 
 Land $25 00 
 
 Compound interest four years at 8 per cent 9 00 
 
 $34 00 
 
 FIKST YEAR. 
 
 Plowing and siibsoiling $ 2 50 
 
 1 10 trees 9 00 
 
 Staking and setting trees 3 50 
 
 Cultivating 75 
 
 Pruning ' 25 
 
 Compound interest four years at 8 per cent S 76 
 
 $21 76 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 199 
 
 LAKE CHELAN. WASHLNGTON. 
 
200 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 SECOND YEAR. 
 
 10 trees $ 80 
 
 Setting trees 35 
 
 Cultivating i 00 
 
 Pruning i 00 
 
 Compound interest three years at 8 per cent 82 
 
 $ 3 97 
 
 THIRD YEAR. 
 
 S trees $ 50 
 
 Setting trees 25 
 
 Cultivating i 00 
 
 Pruning I 00 
 
 Budding 55 trees i 00 
 
 Compound interest two years 60 
 
 $ 4 35 
 
 FOURTH YEAR. 
 
 Pruning $ i 50 
 
 Budding i 00 
 
 Cultivating i 00 
 
 5 trees and setting 75 
 
 Interest one year 34 
 
 $4 59 
 Total cost per acre, $68.67. 
 
 This being the very center of the great grain fields, it may be 
 well to state that everything here is done on a grand scale in 
 plowing, sowing, harvesting and threshing, with a climate that 
 admits of the harvest being continued and the sacks being left 
 in the fields until the harvesting and threshing are completed. 
 With these methods, the cost of raising wheat is much less than 
 in the east, where it is stacked immediately in fear of rain. 
 The Spokesman-Review gives the cost of raising wheat'on the 
 Columbia Plateau as seventeen cents per bushel and mar- 
 keting five cents per bushel, or a total of twenty-two cents. 
 But the average cost is generally figured at from twenty-four 
 to twenty-eight cents. Wheat has stood in price in Eastern 
 Washington at from forty-eight to fifty-six cents, so that the 
 profit of the farmer has been about 100 per cent. The average 
 yield per acre is given throughout the whole region, both good 
 and bad, as 23.5 bushels per acre. Here it varies, spring wheat 
 ranging generally from twenty to thirty bushels, in solitary in- 
 stances much more. Winter wheat yields ordinarily much more 
 than spring wheat, but sometimes the yield is reversed. The 
 range is wide, twenty bushels being considered low, thirty 
 good and forty very good, while both spring and winter wheat 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 201 
 
202 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sometimes yield fifty and sixty bushels to the acre. Summer 
 fallowed land produces nearly as much in one season as con- 
 tinuously cultivated land does in two. There is no cjuestion but 
 that these favored regions of the Inland Empire surpass any 
 other in the United States for the economical production of 
 wheat. 
 
 W. J. Spillman, professor of agriculture at Pullman, says 
 that the soil has been formed by the disintegration of lava or 
 basalt, with which it is everywhere underlaid, and is wholly 
 unlike anything in the east. In laboratory experiments he 
 found that to saturate it with water it would absorb from forty- 
 five to fifty per cent. This great capacity for water, which he 
 says does not exist at depth, explains the apparent phenomenon 
 of growing crops without additional rain from springtime to 
 harvest. Professor M. W. Harrington, of the United States 
 Weather Bureau, states that the soil is perpetually fertile, and 
 that in the whole world he knows of but one locality which has 
 a similar soil, and that is in the northern part of Cliina, in the 
 two provinces of Shansi and Shensi, west of Pekin. There it 
 has been cultivated and has remained unchanged for 4,000 
 years. The United States Agricultural Department gives the 
 wheat crop for 1902 of the three states as follows: Washing- 
 ton, 23,672,187 bushels; Idaho (estimated), 4,000,000, and 
 Oregon, 15,512,460 bushels, or a total of 43,184,647 bushels. 
 As the Agricultural Department has shown the wheat crop of 
 the United States to be a little over 500,000,000, it will be 
 s£en that the crop of the Inland Empire, which produces most 
 all of the wheat of the three states, is nearly one-tenth of that 
 amount. Whitman and Lincoln counties are the largest, and 
 produce nearly an equal amount. Walla Walla is third, Adams 
 fourth, Douglas fifth and Spokane, which is the last of the 
 million-bushel counties, sixth. The wheat is marketed in jute 
 sacks, made mostly in Calcutta, but some being made at the 
 penitentiary at Walla Walla, each holding, approximately, 140 
 pounds. The grain never leaves the sack from the time it is 
 put into it on the field until it is delivered at its destination in 
 the different foreign countries, most of it going to Liverpool. 
 
 The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company crosses this 
 county from north to south, and is now building a line up the 
 Snake River Valley. The Northern Pacific crosses the county 
 from east to west. Colfax, the county seat, is situated on the 
 Palouse River and the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com- 
 pany, and has a population at present of 3,500. It is a wealthy 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 203 
 
204 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 city, has good hotels, churches, a $60,000 waterworks plant, a 
 Baptist college, fine courthouse and St. Ignatius' Hospital. At 
 Pullman is located the State Agricultural College, and there 
 are numerous artesian wells in this locality. Palouse and Farm- 
 ington, in the extreme eastern part of the county, are rising 
 cities. 
 
 Adams County. — This county is located directly west of 
 Whitman County, south of Lincoln and Douglas counties, and 
 partakes of the same characteristics, but it lies at a lower ele- 
 vation, and consequently has less rainfall, ten inches being 
 about the average. It nevertheless is fourth in the wheat pro- 
 ducing counties of the state, and in 1902 produced nearly 3,- 
 000,000 bushels. Its soil is a volcanic ash, from one foot to 200 
 feet in depth. Colville Lake, in the northeastern part of the 
 county, is a large reservoir, and can be used for irrigation pur- 
 poses. The area of this countv is 2,400 square miles, and it has 
 a population of 4,840. Richville, the county seat, on the North- 
 ern Pacific, is a growing town, its population in 1900 being 761. 
 
 Franklin County. — This county lies south of Adams 
 County, is of the same character, but still lower in elevation, 
 the Columbia and Snake river valleys bounding it on the south 
 and west, so it may be said that it is the very bottom of the 
 Columbia Basin. It is a semi-arid county, but is seventh in 
 production of wheat, coming next to Spokane. Its volcanic soil 
 shows its moisture-holding qualities, when its wheat crop 
 reaches three-quarters of a million bushels, with less than ten 
 inches of rainfall annually. Along the river valleys are splen- 
 did alfalfa fields and fine orchards, where irrigation is in prog- 
 ress. A branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com- 
 pany connects with the Northern Pacific Railway at Connell. 
 The Northern Pacific Railway runs north and south through 
 the county, crossing the Columbia River at Pasco, the county 
 seat, which is the only town of any size in the county. 
 
 YakiiM.v axd Kittitas Counties. — These counties lie be- 
 tween the Columbia River on the east and the summit of the 
 Cascade Mountains on the west. Kittitas County is bounded 
 by Chelan County on the north. The counties cover the entire 
 valley of the Yakima River and its tributaries, and topograph- 
 ically they consist of valley table lands and rolling hills, sloping 
 from the hills to the mountain summit. Spurs of the Cascades 
 divide the main valleys into smaller valleys, each being supplied 
 with a mountain stream. The mountains are covered with 
 timber, and the valleys with bunch grass and sage brush. Ya- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 205 
 
 kima County has an area of 5,500 square miles and a population 
 of 13,462 ; Kittitas, 2,000 square miles and a population of 
 9,704. The Northern Pacific Railway traverses these counties 
 with its main line along the Yakima Valley in a northeasterly 
 direction, making the ascent to the summit of the Cascades and 
 Stampede Tunnel, elevation 3,698 feet. The soil is a volcanic 
 ash, with some wash soil mixed. 
 
 In these counties irrigation has been practiced for some time. 
 Originally the valley was a great cattle range, but irrigation 
 today has changed it 
 to numerous farms, 
 with diversified crops 
 of alfalfa, hops, fruits, 
 wheat, tobacco, sor- 
 ghum and vegetables 
 Though Whitman 
 County takes the lead 
 in horses and cattle, 
 Yakima County takes 
 the lead in sheep, in 
 1900 138,222 sheep 
 being grazed on its 
 ranges. Between the 
 Yakima River and 
 Klickitat County, 
 near Prosser, is a 
 high table land, cov- 
 ered with bunch 
 grass, which is called 
 Horse Heaven. Wa- 
 ter cannot be obtained 
 under 400 feet, so it 
 is still used as a great 
 range. The irrigation ditches already perfected, of which the 
 Sunnyside is the largest in Yakima County, and the large one 
 in Kittitas, projected at a cost of nearly $500,000, will enable 
 the people to live from small farms, thus giving better care to 
 the land and receiving better results. Fruit growing here has 
 already reached wonderful perfection. The fruit is very large 
 and sound and brings good prices. Every variety is success- 
 fully grown, and the orchardists are becoming ric^ from this 
 product. The Yakima Indian Reservation occupies a large 
 share of the southwestern part of the county. The Yakimas 
 
 VAKIMA CANYON AND RIVER. 
 
206 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 are a very unthrifty race, but have lately leased water rights 
 and are beginning to accomplish something. 
 
 There are ten creameries in the two counties, which in 1900 
 manufactured three-fourths of a million pounds of butter. 
 There are a number of promising mining districts located along 
 the Cascades, especially in Kittitas County. The famous Cle- 
 Elum coal district and Rosslyn mines have been spoken of in 
 the general matter, also the iron mines. 
 
 Ellensburg is the county seat of Kittitas County, on the 
 Yakima River and the Northern Pacific Railway. It has an 
 electric light plant, street railway system, rolling mills, sash and 
 door factories, sawmills, etc. North Yakima, the county seat 
 of Yakima County, is located on the Northern Pacific Railway 
 near the river. It is the center of much business enterprise and 
 diversified farming. It is growing and prosperous, and has a 
 very metropolitan air. Seventy-five good buildings, many of 
 them brick, were erected in 1902. The state fair is held there 
 annually, the grounds being excellerit, and it is said to have 
 the best race track in the state. 
 
 Lands along the valley ditches devoted to fruit are worth 
 from $100 to $300 per acre. There are quite a number of other 
 towns in these counties of moderate size. 
 
 Asotin, Garfield and Columbia Counties. — These coun- 
 ties lie in the southeastern part of the state, Asotin bordering 
 on Idaho and all three bordering on Oregon. Asotin has an 
 area of only 640 square miles, and a population of 3,366; Gar- 
 field, 672 square miles and a population of 3,918; Columbia, 
 830 squares miles and a population of 7,128. These counties 
 lie partially in the Blue Mountains, which are heavily cov- 
 ered with timber. The northern portions are prairie land, have 
 a volcanic sell and raise large quantities of wheat. 
 
 In Asotin County water is taken from the Snake River and 
 Asotin Creek for irrigation purposes. The large canal diverting 
 the water from the latter creek irrigates a considerable portion 
 of the valley which is known as Vineland, with headquarters 
 at Clarkston. It is a land of homes, in the midst of profitable 
 orchards and small garden farms. It is a very successful and 
 rapidly growing community. The city of Clarkston, opposite 
 Lewiston, Idaho, with which it is connected by a $110,000 steel 
 wagon bridge across the Snake River, just above its junction 
 with the Clearwater, is a prosperous town in this district. It 
 supports afiewspaper, a bank, a sanitarium, two general stores, 
 besides other stores representing the different lines, five 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 207 
 
208 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 churches, some handsome residences and a park system. This 
 city is being built under certain regulations, one of which re- 
 quires all residences to be set twenty-five feet from the street 
 line, and another that no stores or shops of any kind are al- 
 lowed on the residence streets. In addition to the open canal 
 system, a pipe line waterworks system has been completed. In 
 time, with its beautiful location opposite the Nez Perces hills, 
 in the only wide part of the Snake River Valley, Clarkston will 
 be one of the most attractive towns of the Inland Empire. 
 
 The first orchard in this locality was planted in Asotin County 
 by Chief Red Wolf, of the Nez Perces tribe, from tree sprouts 
 given him by one of the missionaries. The Oregon Railway & 
 Navigation Company is building a line up the Snake River 
 Valley to this point. The river is navigated by boats through- 
 out most of the year. Asotin is the county seat of Asotin 
 County, situated on the Snake River at the mouth of Asotin 
 Creek. It has a population of 774. The county seat of Gar- 
 field County is Pomeroy, which has a population of 953, and is 
 reached by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company. Day- 
 ton is the county seat of Columbia County, with a population of 
 2,216, and is also reached b}- the Oregon Railway & Navigation 
 Company. AH these counties have considerable stock, and 
 Garfield especially has immense grain yields. 
 
 Walla Walla County is another of the southern tier of 
 counties lying west of Columbia and bounded on the north and 
 west by the Snake and Columbia rivers. It has an area of 
 2,000 square miles; its population in 1900 was 18,680. It is 
 not only one of the oldest counties of the state, but one of the 
 most prosperous. It was settled by the Whitman missionary 
 party at Waiilatpu, seven miles from the present seat of Walla 
 Walla, in 1836, and the site of the mission and scene of the 
 massacre is now marked by a granite monument. The name 
 Walla Walla is from the Indian, meaning "many waters," or 
 "where waters meet." The Touchet River flows westward 
 from Columbia County and the Walla Walla and tributaries 
 from the south in the Blue Mountains in Oregon, all meeting 
 in this county and flowing into the Columbia at Wallula. The 
 country is gently rolling, sloping upward toward the Blue 
 Mountains ; the soil is volcanic, there is ample rainfall to in- 
 sure crops, and the climate is mild in winter. It has been occu- 
 pied and cultivated for a longer period than any other portion 
 of Washington, and has really been the pioneer of the grain and 
 fruit interests of the state. In early times it was entirely a 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 209 
 
210 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 stock-growing country, but wheat farming followed, from 3,- 
 000,000 to 5,000,000 bushels Ijeing harvested annually; today, 
 however, 3,000 acres are devoted to fruit raising, with splen- 
 did results. One orchard alone consists of 1,000 acres. 
 
 In this county some records of "volunteer" crops of wheat 
 are almost beyond belief. In one instance four crops were 
 harvested, comprising respectively thirty-seven bushels, thirty 
 bushels, twenty bushels and twelve bushels per acre, or four 
 harvests amounting to ninety-nine bushels per acre in four con- 
 secutive years without seeding. Harvesting in Washington 
 and Oregon is a wonder to the eastern man. An immense ma- 
 chine, driven by steam or drawn by thirty-six horses, heads, 
 threshes, cleans and sacks at one operation forty acres of wheat 
 per day. 
 
 The Blue Mountains occupy ,the eastern and southern part 
 of the county. Walla Walla, the county seat, is located on the 
 Oregon Railway & Navigation Company and the Washington 
 & Columbia railroads, and in 1900 had a population of 10,047. 
 It is a city in every sense, has fine houses, several educational 
 institutions, good newspapers, a United States garrison, at 
 Fort Walla Walla, and the state penitentiary. Witsburg has 
 a population of 1,011 and an academic institution. There are 
 about 250 miles of railroad in the county, consisting largely of 
 the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, the balance being 
 the Washington & Columbia Railway, a branch of the Northern 
 Pacific Railway. 
 
 Klickit.\t County. — This county lies west of Walla Walla, 
 south of Yakima County, and has a shore line on the Columbia 
 River for 120 miles. Its western boundary is practically the 
 summit of the Cascade range. Many small streams flow 
 through the county into the Columbia River on the south. The 
 principal river is the Klickitat, which rises between Mount 
 Adams and St. Helens. This river and its tributaries afford 
 many advantageous water powers, and its gorge makes a path- 
 way for the Columbia River & Northern Railway in its route 
 from Lyle to Goldendale. The county has an area of 3,000 
 square miles and a population of 6,407 by the 1900 census. The 
 Simcoe range of mountains separates the Klickitat Valley from 
 the Yakima Valley, from which the country gentlv slopes each 
 way. Although the northwest part of the county is mountain- 
 ous, about one-half of the county is susceptible of cultivation 
 and the balance is good grazing land. The part nearest the 
 Cascades gets ample rainfall, while its eastern half is semi- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 211 
 
212 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 arid. Klickitat is one of the largest wool-producing counties 
 in the state. Its principal crops are wheat and other cereals, 
 and timothy, with fruits, in the Columbia \'allev. X(j irriga- 
 tion is rec|uired, the soil is basaltic, but near the Cascades it 
 has quite an admixture with loam. 
 
 The Camas Prairie and Trout Lake communities are noted 
 for their cattle interests and their dairies, one of the latter mak- 
 ing over 5,000 pounds of butter during the past vear. This is 
 the former home of the Klickitat Indians, celebrated for their 
 romantic history and their baskets. 
 
 Goldendale, the county seat, is situated on the Little Klicki- 
 tat River and on the Columbia & Northern Railwa\'. In 1900 it 
 had a population of 738, and now probably has double that 
 
 GOLDENDALE, WAS If I NGTON. 
 
 number. It is a very enterprising town, with banks, churches, 
 good schools, an academy and two weekly papers. The river 
 affords power for several saw and flour mills, and an electric 
 light plant and waterworks are being established. There is 
 considerable timber in the higher parts of the county. In 
 going to Goldendale by all means get off at L}le and go by 
 rail. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt the stage line 
 and sand from Biggs. There are a number of other towns in 
 the county. Lyle, on the Columbia, is now the terminal of 
 the Columbia & Northern Railway ; connection is made here 
 with the Regulator line of steamers. It is a good point. Prices 
 of land in this county are very reasonable, and the Northern Pa- 
 cific has some patented lands unsold. 
 
 Whatcom County. — Beginning at the British Columbia 
 line on the western side of the Cascades the first county is 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 213 
 
 Whatcom. This county extends from the Gulf of Georgia and 
 Puget Sound on the west to the summit of tlie Cascades on 
 the east. It has an area of 2,000 square miles, and a popula- 
 tion of 24,116. The larger part of the county is mountainous. 
 The Skagit River, which rises in British Columbia, flows south 
 through the eastern part of the county, but the main river is 
 the Nooksachk, which flows westward through the main part 
 of the countv into Bellingham Bay. The bottom land along 
 this river is very rich and produces immense crops of hay, 
 vegetables, hops and fruit. The second bottom lands make 
 good fruit lands. The Sumas Valley is very level and fertile. 
 The great resource of this county has been timber, which has 
 
 SHIPBUILDING, WHATCOM. 
 
 been cut into lumber and shingles at Sumas and other places, 
 but largely at Bellingham Bay. Mount Baker, always snow- 
 clad, rears its head 11,100 feet above the sea, and is the great 
 landmark of this county from all directions. In the Mount 
 Baker district valuable minerals have been discovered, and 
 mines and mills are in operation. The coal mines at Blue Can- 
 yon are well developed. There are sixty-three saw and shingle 
 mills in the county, some of which have a large foreign trade. 
 The fishing industry has developed to a remarkable degree, and 
 is now one of the chief sources of revenue. The Pacific Navi- 
 gation & Packing Company operates three canneries, with a 
 capacity of 360,000 cases of salmon annually. These are con- 
 
214 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 sidered the largest in the world. • The county has fifteen can- 
 neries all told. 
 
 The Great Xorthern Railway, or Shore Line, runs north- 
 ward through the county to Blaine, and continues on to Van- 
 couver, which is the terminus. The Northern Pacific runs 
 north and south through the county, connecting at Sumas with 
 the Canadian Pacific. The Bellingham Bay & British Columbia 
 runs east and west through the county, as a great logging and 
 commercial road, and is now building up the north fork of the 
 Nooksachk River. Steamers connect with the principal cities 
 by water. 
 
 Whatcom and Fairhaven, with Seahome lying between, have 
 a combined population of 14,000, and cover the entire shore 
 
 i ." " , ■ ■ ■ 
 
 
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 Ii^^QKa 
 
 
 fe 
 
 - . '-■ •^''■'~- V"- V'*!^; 
 
 
 
 — ^ 
 
 
 WHATCOM. 
 
 fine of Bellingham Bay. Street cars connect the two cities, 
 running every few minutes ; they have electric lights and other 
 improvements, while harmony exists between them in working 
 toward a common end. The value of the lumber exports of 
 this bay annually is over two and a half million dollars, and the 
 salmon industry over one and a half million dollars, to say noth- 
 ing of logs, coal and other products. The oyster business has 
 been established, and shipbuilding has reached quite a stage, 
 two vards being at present in operation. Besides a large tin 
 can manufactory, there are brickyards, creameries, fertilizer 
 works and other manufacturing interests operated on this bay, 
 in all eniploving 4,297 men. Bellingham Bay has a fine harbor 
 and enjoys a large commerce. Whatcom is the county seat. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 215 
 
 Blaine is the most nortliwesterl}- city of the United States, 
 and is situated on the Great Northern Railway and Semiahmoo 
 Ba}' on the Gulf of Georgia. It has lumber mills, shingle mills, 
 a crab cannery and five salmon canneries. This is one of the 
 greatest of the salmon fishing districts, and many canneries are 
 farther up on the Frazer River, there being forty-two within 
 twenty miles of its mouth. 
 
 Near the beach on the north side of Blaine is an iron monu- 
 ment, four feet high and six inches square at the base, tapering 
 to three inches at the top. On the north side of it are the words 
 "Treaty of Washington." On the south side, "June 15, 1846." 
 This marks the 49° of latitude and the final settlement of the 
 boundary dispute. The boundary extends out to the main chan- 
 
 FAIRHAVEN .\ND WHATCOM. 
 
 nel in the gulf, thence down through Harro Straits to the Strait 
 of Juan de Fuca, and from there to the sea. Other towns in the 
 county are Nooksachk, Sumas, Enterprise and Wickersham. 
 
 Skagit County lies south of Whatcom County, and extends 
 from the Sound to the summit of the Cascades on the east. It 
 has an area of 1,800 square miles and a population of 14,272. 
 The county is drained its whole length east and west by the 
 Skagit River and its tributary, the Sauk. The valleys and the 
 tide marsh lands at the mouth, known as the Swinomish flats, 
 a large part of which have been diked, are the most productive 
 lands in the county. On these flats are some splendid farms. 
 In 1900 the county produced over one and a half million bush- 
 els of oats. Hops, hay, vegetables and fruits all flourish. This 
 
216 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is one of the richest agricultural counties in western Washing- 
 ton, and has the largest amount of standing timber. 
 
 The Skagit River is navigable for a considerable distance 
 from its mouth, and the Northern Pacific Railway extends from 
 Anacortes, on Fidalgo Island, to Hamilton, and also runs north 
 and south through the county. The Great Northern runs north 
 and south near the shore line. There are coal mines at Hamil- 
 ton, also iron deposits of some value, and there is a good min- 
 eral zone in the southeastern part of the county. Sawmilling is 
 the chief industry, but fishing has become an important factor. 
 Several canneries are located at Anacortes, and there are nine 
 creameries in the county. 
 
 Mount Vernon is the county seat, located on the.Skagit River 
 and the Great Northern Railway, and has a population of 1,020. 
 La Connor is the oldest town in the county, with a population 
 of 1,082. Anacortes has a population of 1,083. Sedro-Woolley 
 is a railroad junction and mill town. Hamilton is a coal and 
 river town. 
 
 San Juan County is composed entirely of islands lying in 
 the Sound between' Vancouver Island and Whatcom and Skagit 
 counties. The area is 500 square miles and population 2,928. 
 The principal islands are San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, Stewart, 
 John's and Decatur. They are adapted to grazing, and have 
 considerable agricultural land, marshes, etc. Dairying is very 
 profitable, and fruits are raised in profusion. There is less rain 
 here than in other parts of western Washington. The county 
 seat is Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island. It has schools, 
 churches and sawmills, and is the center of the lumbering and 
 farming interests. Population, 400. There are twenty-six 
 public schools in the county. 
 
 A controversy with Great Britain took place over these is- 
 lands, and at one time open hostilities were begun. The forces 
 on San Juan Island faced each other until the German Emperor 
 arbitrated the matter, deciding that the channel ran west of 
 this archipelago, and the English then evacuated Roche Harbor. 
 Thus the Lhiited States secured a part of the beautiful Ionian 
 Islands. 
 
 Island County is composed of the islands of Whidbey and 
 Camano, located about the center of Puget Sound, across the 
 head of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. They have an area of 145,- 
 000 acres and a population of 1,870. Both these islands are 
 heavily timbered, but they afford a few thousand acres of agri- 
 cultural land. This is a fruit paradise, some of the oldest or- 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 217 
 
 chards in the state being located on these islands. There are 
 fourteen public schools in the county. Coupeville is the county 
 seat, is located on the east side of Whidbey Island, and has a 
 population of 495. Steamers call daily. 
 
 Snohomish County lies between Skagit on the north and 
 King on the south, and extends from Puget Sound on the west 
 to the summit of the Cascades on the east. It has an area of 
 2,500 square miles and a population of 23,950. It covers most 
 of the valleys of the Snohomish River and its tributary, the 
 Skykomish, and also the Stillaguamish rivers. The Great 
 
 ONE WAY OF BUILDING A HOUSE, NEAR EVERETT. WASHINGTON. 
 
 Northern Railway main line descends to the sea level at Everett 
 from the summit of the Cascades by the Skykomish \'alley. 
 The chief industry has been lumbering, with some agriculture, 
 but the growth of the cities has built up manufacturing, and 
 the mines having been opened up, a different impetus has been 
 given to the county. The Great Xorthern Railway not only 
 extends east and west through the county, but follows the shore 
 line from north to south. The Northern Pacific extends from 
 north to south through the western part of the county, and a 
 branch line from Hartford extends up the Stillaguamish Valley 
 to the JMonte Cristo mining district. 
 
218 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The fertile lands of the valley produce hops, hay, oats and 
 vegetables ; orchards are also being planted. There are four- 
 teen dairies in the county, which manufactured in 1900 214,126 
 pounds of butter and 19,300 pounds of cheese. There has been 
 greater mining development in this than any other county in 
 Washington. It has the only shipping mines, with the excep- 
 tion of one in the Mount Baker district. The mining districts 
 consist of Monte Cristo, Silverton, Sultan, Wallace and Index. 
 
 Everett, the county seat, is located at the mouth of the Sno- 
 homish River, on Port Gardner Bay, and had a population in 
 1900 of 7,838, which now probably reaches 15,000, including 
 
 
 
 S ' 
 
 
 ' miJs^s^^^^t^ 
 
 
 
 ^^MH^* "^"^L^' ^'^^3 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 w 
 
 -'^ (1^^ 
 
 p^^^^^s 
 
 IT 
 
 S^hH 
 
 w^ 
 
 ! 
 
 ^f^-m^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ONE OF EVERETT S MANY SAWMILLS. 
 
 Lowell and the smelter. The industries of Everett are many, 
 and among them are included nine large sawmills, a flouring 
 mill, a paper mill, three iron foundries, eleven shingle mills, six 
 planing mills, a large smelter, an arsenic plant — the only one 
 in the United States — large creosoting works, four shipyards, 
 a wagon factory, an emery wheel factory, all running continu- 
 ously, and, with the permanent forces of the railroads, giving 
 employment to 2,350 men. The railroads have a payroll of 
 $2,000,000 annually. Everett ranks third in the customs dis- 
 trict of Puget Sound, which is the indicator of its commerce. 
 In 1891 the first town lots were sold, and in less than ten years 
 there was built up a city of 15,000 inhabitants, with enormous 
 commercial interests. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 219 
 
 Snohomish is the next important town, a flourishing city, 
 nine miles above Everett, on the Snohomish River and the 
 Great Northern Railway. It has a population of 2,001. Sev- 
 eral saw and shingle mills are located here. Other towns are 
 Stanwood, Monroe, Arlington, Marysville and Edmunds. 
 
 King County lies be- 
 tween Snohomish and 
 Pierce counties, and ex- 
 tends from the Sound to 
 the summit of the Cascades 
 on the east. This county is 
 situated in about the center 
 of the Puget Sound region. 
 It has an area of 2,000 
 square miles and a popu- 
 lation of 110,053 (1900). 
 It was originally very heav- 
 ily timbered, and is so yet 
 in the eastern part. There 
 is some agricultural land in 
 the county adjoining the 
 lakes and the Sound, while 
 the uplands, when cleared, 
 are adapted to fruit raising. 
 The rivers are the Duwam- 
 ish, White and Snoqualmie, 
 the latter being a branch of 
 the Snohomish. The prod- 
 ucts of the county are tim- 
 ber, coal, hay, hops, live 
 stock, fruits and fish. The 
 industries are lumbering, 
 coal mining, hop raising, 
 dairying, gardening and 
 varied manufacturing. Coal 
 mining has been a leading industry in the countv since its in- 
 fancy, millions of tons having been taken from its mines for 
 domestic use and shipment. The output now is annually about 
 900,000 tons. Large deposits of iron ore exist in the moun- 
 tains, and the county has within its borders good mineral zones 
 now undergoing development. A very profitable industry is 
 dairying, there being twelve dairies in the county, which, in 
 
 SNOQUALMIE FALLS BY MOONLIGHT, 
 
220 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 1900, manufactured 772,068 pounds of butter, besides a large 
 amount of cheese. 
 
 The railroad mileage is over 300 miles, consisting of the 
 Great Northern and Northern Pacific and local lines. A very 
 direct electric line has been established between the cities of 
 Seattle and Tacoma, which gives many of the intervening towns 
 light freight, as well as passenger service. \'ashon Island, one 
 of the large islands lying in the path of the steamers plying 
 the upper Sound, is a part of King County. It has a popula- 
 tion of several hundred people, engaged mostly in horticultural 
 pursuits. Some fine homes are to be found here, and it is the 
 seat of Vashon Baptist College. Maury Island, lying near it, 
 also belongs to King County. Fishing has been a leading in- 
 dustry of the people of this county, and a source of much 
 wealth. 
 
 Lake Washington, lying near the Sound, is a beautiful body 
 of fresh water, twenty-two miles in length and from two to 
 four miles in width. Between this lake and Lake Union and 
 Salmon Bay a ship canal eight miles long is being built by the 
 United States Government, at a cost of $3,000,000, to afiford 
 fresh water anchorage to seagoing vessels, together with addi- 
 tional dockage. 
 
 Snoqualmie Falls, twenty-five miles from Seattle, consti- 
 tute a perpendicular fall of the river of that name for 268 
 feet, and the natural beauty is unexcelled. A power company 
 has utilized these falls to operate electric car lines and manu- 
 facturing plants at Seattle and other adjacent cities. Its power 
 ranges from 10,000 to 100,000 horsepower at different stages 
 of water. There are other falls in the county which can be 
 utilized. 
 
 On Green River are located the celebrated Hot Springs, 
 sixty-three miles from Seattle, on the Northern Pacific Railway. 
 These springs have a temperature of 132°, and are used medic- 
 inally. A good hotel or sanitarium building has been built, with 
 excellent accommodation for guests. 
 
 Seattle is the county seat of King County, and the largest 
 city in the state, with a population in 1900 of 80,671, which, 
 there is good reason to believe, has been increased to more than 
 100,000. The site was located in 1852, and in 1853 a town was 
 platted and named Seattle, after a friendly Indian chief. The 
 city extends from Elliot Bay to Lake Washington on the east 
 and north and south for several miles. Seattle is a city of hills, 
 the country rising abruptly from the water front, but the wide 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 221 
 
222 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tide flats to the south of the bay are now being filled in, thus 
 affording ample space for manufacturing enterprises. The 
 residence section of the city lies on the side hill and upon the 
 higher plain along the lakes to the east and north, where there 
 are many beautiful parks. 
 
 All parts of the city are reached by street cars, the entire 
 system extending more than lOO miles ; steamboats also ply 
 Lake Washington, so that transportation is ample. Within the 
 limits of the city is situated Lake L'nion, a lake of 905 acres, 
 also Green Lake, covering 300 acres. An army post is estab- 
 lished at the northeastern extremity of the city, on what is 
 known as jMagnolia Bluff, overlooking the Sound. The gov- 
 ernment has built quarters here, also a fort, commemorating 
 the name of General Lawton, who was killed in the Philippines. 
 The United States naval station at Port Orchard, fourteen 
 miles west of Seattle, lies in Ivitsap County. A United States 
 assay office was established in Seattle in 1898, following the 
 needs of the Alaskan shipment of gold. The assay value of 
 gold of that year was over five million dollars, in 1899 about 
 thirteen million, in 1900 twenty-two million, and in 1901 over 
 twenty-five million dollars. 
 
 The State University is located in the suburbs of the city, on 
 a 355-acre tract of land, lying between Lakes Union and Wash- 
 ington. Several substantial buildings have been erected, and 
 the faculty includes thirty professors and teachers and the 
 students number upward of 600. Seattle has over 100 churches, 
 a large public library, good public buildings, many hotels, and 
 two as good newspapers as are printed in the United States. 
 I^ike San Francisco, each of the Pacific Coast cities has a Chi- 
 nese quarter and a large Japanese population. 
 
 The city draws its water supply from the Cedar River, a 
 clear mountain stream, along whose borders it owns several 
 thousand acres of land, insuring the best of water. The Olym- 
 pic Mountains, west of Seattle, rising from 4,000 to 8,000 feet; 
 the Cascades to the east, from 5,000 to 10,000 feet, and Mount 
 Rainier to the south, 14,526 feet, with the water colorings, 
 make a grand panorama. Seattle has a mild and equable cli- 
 mate throughout the year. The harbor is magnificent, being 
 accessible to the largest ocean-going vessels, several of which 
 are seen there at all times. 
 
 The L^nited States census of 1900 showed Seattle to have 
 953 various manufacturing establishments, the value of the 
 products of which reached over twenty-six million dollars. 
 
WASHINGTON 223 
 
 Since then the number of factories and products has increased 
 largel_v, the number of operatives employed being estimated at 
 15,000. 
 
 The leading industrial features of the city are the shipyards 
 and the sawmills. 
 
 The great shipbuilding plant of Moran Brothers Co., now 
 almost rivaling those of the Atlantic Coast, has a business his- 
 tory of only twenty-two years. The company built its first steel 
 ship in 1886, having previous to that time been engaged in 
 wooden shipbuilding and general machine and foundry work. 
 Its success in constructing vessels and their machinery has 
 
 SEATTLE SHIPPING. 
 
 been most gratifying, the work along this line including ocean 
 vessels, wood and steel ; tugs and tenders for the United States 
 Government, river and sound steamers and barges. It has 
 also delivered to the United States Navy one first-class torpedo 
 boat, the "Rowan," which, considering the usual trouble expe- 
 rienced by all torpedo boat builders in this and other countries, 
 may be said to have an exceptionally good record, as not only 
 were the contract requirements fully complied with, but as to 
 speed were exceeded by i /4 knots, a remarkable achievement in 
 torpedo boat building. 
 
 There are four steel vessels at present under construction at 
 the works of this company, among which is the first-class 
 
224 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 United States battleship "Nebraska," 15,000 tons displacement, 
 and costing $3,800,000. A general idea of the magnitude of 
 this work may be obtained from the following description : 
 
 The vessel is 441 feet long, sevent)'-six feet two and one- 
 fourth inches wide at the water line and a total depth from keel 
 to top of the upper deck of forty-nine feet nine inches. The 
 main battery will include four twelve-inch breech-loading rifles, 
 eight eight-inch breech-loading rifles and twelve six-inch 
 breech-loading R. F. rifles. 
 
 Aside from the steel shipbuilding plant and the drydock, the 
 company operates a marine railway, on which vessels are hauled 
 out for cleaning and repair. 
 
 The general works include the following departments : Ma- 
 chine shop, sheet metal shop, joiner shop, pattern shop, iron 
 foundry, brass foundry, electrical construction department, 
 power plant, and drawing office. There are also large store- 
 rooms and warehouses, well stocked with all kinds of marine 
 and engineers' supplies and raw materials for ship and general 
 constrviction. The shop tools at the works are independently 
 driven by either electricity, compressed air or hydraulic power, 
 the company's power plant including large generators, air 
 compressors and hydraulic pumps and accumulators. 
 
 This company also operates large saw and planing mills, 
 where lumber of all kinds is manufactured for its use and for 
 local trade and export shipments. These mills are particu- 
 larly ecjuipped to turn out long and large timbers, and a spe- 
 cialty is made of spars of large dimensions. 
 
 In addition to the above, the plant includes facilities for 
 receiving and shipping materials or machinery which are un- 
 surpassed, as the trans-continental railroads run by the works 
 and have branch tracks extending through the shops to the 
 deep water wharves. Weights of sixty tons are handled with 
 ease by the electric traveling cranes in the shops, and weights 
 of 100 tons can be handled by the stationary and floating cranes 
 at the wharves. 
 
 Aside from the operation of its construction or producing 
 departments above described, the company is constantly en- 
 gaged in repairing vessels which call at the port of Seattle, and 
 it is not unusual to see as many as from ten to fifteen vessels of 
 all descriptions undergoing repairs at one time. During the 
 war with Spain numerous vessels were fitted out very expedi- 
 tiously by this company for the United States Government for 
 the transportation of men and animals. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 225 
 
226 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The storage capacity of the wharves, warehouses and eleva- 
 tors of Seattle's water front is 712,900 tons, and the berths 
 for vessels alongside the wharves are sufficient to accommodate 
 a line of vessels for a distance of four miles. Local develop- 
 ment on a large scale is being carried on by the combined rail- 
 road companies, a new union depot having been located south 
 of the business section of the city. A tunnel will be driven in a 
 northerly and southerly direction under the city, which will 
 give an outlet to the railroads and relieve the water front of 
 its present congestion of railway tracks. Seattle's foreign and 
 Alaska trade has of late years been very large, especially the 
 Oriental trade. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha has nineteen ves- 
 sels engaged between Seattle and the Orient ; the China Mu- 
 tual Line has thirteen vessels running to Liverpool and the 
 Orient ; the Globe Navigation Company has a line to Hon- 
 olulu, and there are, besides several other lines, the general 
 ocean sailing vessels, the Alaska and coastwise trade, which 
 is carried on by a number of strong steamships, and the local 
 business is conducted by what is known as the "mosquito 
 fleet." Seattle shipments for 1901 are estimated at forty-six 
 millions. 
 
 The wheat and flour exports have been simply enormous, 
 and new flouring mills are now being constructed to supply the 
 new demand for flour in China and elsewhere. 
 
 The city of Ballard is a flourishing manufacturing city, sit- 
 uated on Salmon Bay, adjoining the city limits of Seattle, and 
 is connected with the city by the Northern Pacific Railway, the 
 Great Northern Railway and by two electric lines. The gov- 
 ernment Lake Washington ship canal passes through Salmon 
 Bay in front of the city, which has twelve shingle mills and 
 four sawmills, with a payroll of $200,000 per month. It is 
 noted as the largest shingle producing point in the world, be- 
 sides having other manufactories. 
 
 There are many flourishing towns in the county, notably 
 Kent, Auburn, Renton, Franklin, Newcastle, Bothel, Black 
 Diamond, Enumclaw, Snoqualmie and others. 
 
 Pierce County covers the commercial head of Puget Sound, 
 lies south of King County, and extends from the Sound to 
 the crest of the Cascades on the east. It has an area of 1,800 
 square miles and a population of 55,515 (1900 census). This 
 county has been very heavily timbered, but large portions of it 
 have been cut and manufactured into lumber. There is still 
 considerable timber in the eastern part of the county ; some of 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
228 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 it, however, being inside the forest reserve and Mount Rainier 
 National Park. There are some prairie lands in the western 
 part of the county and in the Puyallup Valley, which for years 
 has been noted as the hop center of Washington. These lands 
 are very rich, and raise all crops in abundance. Apples, plums, 
 prunes, vegetables and the cereals do well. Dairying has 
 reached an important stage, there being fourteen dairies in the 
 county, from which, in 1900, 270,270 pounds of butter were 
 made. 
 
 The Puyallup River rises in the Cascade Mountains, with its 
 various branches, has a generally northwesterly direction, and 
 reaches the Sound at Tacoma. The Nisqually River bounds the 
 county on the south and west, rising high up in the National 
 Park, on the sides of Mount Tacoma. This mountain stands 
 out in bold relief in the southwestern part of the county, the 
 grandest mountain of all the Cascades. The government has 
 thought this mountain, with its forests and its glaciers, a scenic 
 feature of the country, and has therefore included it in a na- 
 tional park. 
 
 The resources of this county are timber, coal and agricultu- 
 ral products, though some mines for the different metals are 
 showing up well. Coal mining is perhaps the leading industry, 
 with timber second, the output of the former for 1900 being 
 600,000 tons. This coal is valuable for coking purposes, and 
 the manufactured product is disposed of at the manufacturing 
 centers. 
 
 The county is traversed east and west and north and south 
 by the Northern Pacific Railway. Portland, Olympia, Gray's 
 Harbor points and Seattle are all connected with Tacoma by 
 the Northern Pacific, and an additional direct electric line also 
 connects Seattle and Tacoma. The Tacoma & Eastern Rail- 
 road, now being built to the foot of Mount Tacoma, is expected 
 to be ready to take passengers who desire to ascend the moun- 
 tain in the course of a year. This road is being built for the 
 purpose of hauling coal and timber, and opens a large and 
 very rich area. 
 
 Tacoma is the county seat of Pierce County, and is situated 
 at the head of Admiralty Inlet, the main estuary of Puget 
 Sound, on Puyallup or Commencement Bay. It is the second 
 largest city in the state, having, in 1903, by estimate of the 
 names in the directory, more than 55>ooo population. Tacoma 
 is the western terminus of the Northern Pacific Railway trans- 
 continental line, where the general offices of the company have 
 
\\'ASnL\GTON 
 
 229 
 
230 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 been located, with terminals and docks costing $15,000,000. 
 This road has also spent a large sum at South Tacoma in car 
 building, locomotive repair and construction shops. These are 
 the largest shops of the kind on the Pacific Coast, with the ex- 
 ception of those at Sacramento, Cal. 
 
 Tacoma is not only a sub-port of entry, but is the second 
 largest wheat shipping point on the entire Pacific Coast. Dur- 
 ing 1902 the shipment reached more than eleven and a half 
 million bushels and 1,400,000 barrels of flour, more than any 
 other city on the coast. Tacoma is nearly 150 miles from the 
 open sea, and is very advantageously situated. Her harbor 
 has ample depth for all classes of shipping and will accommo- 
 date any sized fleet, while her wharf and shipping facilities are 
 unexcelled. The largest private drydock on the coast is lo- 
 cated here. In addition to numerous other warehouses, one 
 warehouse alone is 147 feet in width and 2,360 feet in length. 
 This is considered the largest of its kind in existence, and from 
 four to eight vessels can be loaded from it at one time. Elec- 
 tricity is used in loading vessels, and this port has earned the 
 reputation of loading quicker than any other port on the Pa- 
 cific. 
 
 Ample coal fields at Tacoma's very door aflford cheap fuel, 
 besides, cheap electric power is furnished, which two economic 
 features have brought to this city many manufacturing estab- 
 lishments, some of the largest on the Pacific Coast. Twenty- 
 one of the establishments employ 4,446 men, or an average of 
 over 200 men to each ; in all there are 583 establishments, em- 
 ploying 7,878 men. C)f these establishments perhaps the most 
 important are the lumber mills, of which there are several of 
 large capacity, the St. Paul and Tacoma Lumber Company be- 
 ing rated the largest lumber mill in the United States, and 
 being second in the world only to the great lumber mill in Swe- 
 den. These mills manufactured about one-fifth of the lumber 
 output of the state, or 304,000,000 feet, and in addition to this 
 350,000,000 shingles. During the year 136 vessels, loaded 
 either wholly or in part with lumber, sailed for India, Africa, 
 Siberia and /\ustralia and for New England with spars. 
 
 A large smelter, the most complete upon the Pacific Coast, 
 is in operation, and smelts ores not only from local mines, but 
 from Alaska, British Columbia, the western states and South 
 America. The most extensive packing and cold storage house 
 on the Pacific Coast is located here and does a large slaughter- 
 ing and shipping business. Besides these manufactures men- 
 
< WASHINGTON 
 
 231 
 
232 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tioned, there are shipbuilding, carbuilding, match manufactur- 
 ing and woodworking plants, as well as a multitude of smaller 
 industries, claiming an invested capital of over ten million 
 dollars, with a monthly payroll of $480,000 and a valued pro- 
 duct for the year of $24,957,600. 
 
 Attending the meeting of the rails and the sails at this point 
 is the immense development of the state, which in many ways 
 has aided the growth of the manufacturing interests of the 
 city in a very stable manner. Large quantities of the wheat 
 raised in the interior have been manufactured into flour and 
 shipped to the Orient, and there has been a local production 
 of the minerals and by-products from many industries. Not 
 onl}' has iron ore been manufactured into steel and shipped, 
 but cotton and other products of the farther confines of the 
 country have been shipped to the Orient through this port, the 
 returning vessels bringing tea, coffee, sugar and silk from other 
 parts of the world. 
 
 Many vessels are required to carry these products, and of 
 the entire fleet of the Puget Sound foreign trade twenty-one 
 make their home at Tacoma, while ten others make Tacoma a 
 port of call. These vessels constitute the lines of the Northern 
 Pacific Railway, the Boston Steamship Company and two Brit- 
 ish lines, in addition to the many sailing vessels. During the 
 year 1902 the number of vessels of all descriptions sailing from 
 Tacoma for foreign ports averaged more than one for every 
 day in the year, this not including what is known as the Puget 
 Sound, or "mosquito fleet," nor the Alaska fleet. 
 
 To carry on these extensive enterprises in both manufac- 
 turing and shipping large capital is required ; the bank clear- 
 ances of the city in 1902 exceeded $75,000,000, which shows the 
 magnitude of the transactions. 
 
 Tacoma, as a city, is remarkably well built, and its features 
 are the beautiful homes, to be seen on every hand, and the many 
 parks and sightly drives. Tacoma has more than 100 miles of 
 graded streets, operates its own waterworks, the water supply 
 coming from the streams along the sides of Mount Tacoma, 
 thus insuring purity ; also its own electric lighting plant ; has 
 a good street car service, and is connected with Seattle by a 
 new and direct electric line in addition to the regular railway 
 service. Several steamers also make the trip between the two 
 cities by water daily, so that there is no lack of either boat or 
 train accommodation at any hour of the day. 
 
 The city's educational advantages are many, for there are 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 233 
 
234 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 located here, in addition to the regular school system, four col- 
 leges, one seminary, two art, two industrial schools and other 
 educational institutions. 
 
 Of the grand and beautiful sights of the world, that of 
 Mount Tacoma, with its snow-clad heights mirrored in the 
 deep blue waters of the Sound, and the city in the foreground, 
 is one which will never fade from the memory of those who 
 have beheld it. 
 
 One of the most interesting sights for the traveler in the 
 Northwest is the Ferry Aluseum, of Tacoma. This occupies 
 two floors of the county courthouse, and has the largest collec- 
 tion of Indian and Alaskan curios and Indian baskets -in the 
 world. These Alaskan curios are not only those which are 
 gathered along the sea coast, but from many points in the in- 
 terior which are seldom visited. The difference between these 
 curios and others which the traveler sees will at once suggest 
 the difference between the real and tlie imitation. 
 
 T1-IUR.STON County is situated in the extreme upper Sound 
 Country, and lies between Chehalis County, on the ocean, and 
 Pierce County, on the east. It has an area of 700 square miles, 
 and had a population, in 1900, of 9,927. It has many miles of 
 shore line bordering on Puget Sound, with numerous bays and 
 inlets, and is one of the leading fruit-growing counties of the 
 state, the larger part of which is adapted to this product. 
 There are many thousands of fruit trees, covering hundreds of 
 acres, and bearing apples, prunes, pears, cherries, quinces, etc. 
 
 Lumber has been the great industry, there being now seven- 
 teen saw and shingle mills in the county, with a daily output of 
 300,000 feet of lumber and 600,000 shingles. It is estimated 
 that one-third of all the logs shipped on Puget Sound comes 
 from the forests adjacent to Olympia. The fish industry here 
 is quite important, as this county is noted for its oysters, the 
 Puget Sound bivalve having been given the name Olympia from 
 the fact of this county being the center of the industry. The 
 oysters are small, but very sweet, and have an especial flavor 
 of their own much enjoyed by epicures. The express company 
 books show that from Olympia were shipped 1,500,000 pounds 
 of oysters, part removed from the shell, during the year, but 
 this does not cover the gross amount, as large quantities were 
 taken direct from the beds to Tacoma and Seattle. There 'are 
 thousands of acres in the Sound's inlets now belonging to the 
 state, which can be utilized for oyster beds, and the trade is 
 constantlv growing. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 235 
 
23G 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 There are fifty-one creameries in the county, with an output 
 of about three hundred thousand pounds annually. There are 
 sixty-six public schools, six of which are graded. The North- 
 ern Pacific Railroad traverses the county with both its main 
 lines to Portland and its line to Grays Harbor. 
 
 This county was settled very early. The settlement at Tum- 
 water, adjoining Olympia, is the oldest west of the Cascades. 
 The surface is rather rough and comprises low mountains, 
 with valleys interspersed with broad plains or prairies. The 
 best and most prosperous farming districts border the arm of 
 the Sound, which penetrates this county in so many difl^erent 
 
 STATE CAPITOL. OLY^ITIA . WASHINGTON. 
 
 places. The Qiehalis River Valley crosses the cxtremeisouth- 
 western part of the county. Coal, not of high grade, is one of 
 the products of Tenino and Bucoda. At the former place there 
 is a fine ledge of building stone, perhaps the best in the state. 
 Other towns are Rainier and Lacy. 
 
 Olympia is the county seat and the capital of the state. It 
 is located on Budd's Inlet, the most extreme southerly inlet of 
 Puget Sound. Its harbor will not accommodate the ocean-going 
 fleet, yet it has sufficient depth for Puget Sound steamboats 
 and vessels, which give regular connection with the other cities. 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 237 
 
238 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The Xorthern Pacific Railway, between Tacoma and Grays 
 Harbor, passes through Olympia, and the Tenino branch makes 
 it a part of the main line to Portland. Through trains pass 
 Olympia each way. The industries of the city include saw and 
 shingle mills, sash and door factories, a wooden pipe factory, a 
 clam cannery, flouring mill, brickyards, stone quarries, fruit 
 drying and canning, etc. At the Pan-American Exposition, in 
 1901, the Olympia Chamber of Commerce was awarded a gold 
 medal for its fruit exhibit, consisting of apples and pears, raised 
 near Olympia, and it was admitted that the display of pears 
 was the best on exhibition. No other city in western Wash- 
 ington received a gold medal. A silver medal was awarded 
 Olympia for its superior equality of cranberries. At Tumwater, 
 adjoining Olympia, the falls of the Des Chutes River are util- 
 ized to supply the power for the electric light and street railway 
 system and other industrial purposes. 
 
 Olympia is not only the farthest inland city of the Sound, but 
 it has the very best of rail and water facilities. It is the oldest 
 city of western Washington, and has been the seat of govern- 
 ment from territorial days to the present time. This city, made 
 famous by the gods and Dewey's ship, is a thriving modern 
 community, with well graded streets, a good sewerage S3'stem, 
 ample waterworks, live newspapers, handsome brick and stone 
 buildings, hotels and an imposing capitol. The population in 
 1900 was 4,002, but the estimate for 1903 is 7,000, the city 
 having had a steady and healthy growth. 
 
 Ample harbor privileges are afforded here gratis to manu- 
 facturers, and there is an excellent opportunity for those de- 
 siring a location for the manufacture of anything in the timber 
 or woodworking line, for canneries, clay works, glass works, 
 etc. 
 
 The building of a canal from Puget Sound through to Gray's 
 Harbor, which would follow almost entirely a river channel, 
 has been strongly advocated. A canal of this character would 
 cost a comparatively small sum of money, would give direct 
 connection with the ocean, and will probably be completed at 
 no distant date, as the obstacles in the wav are so few. 
 
 The estimate of standing timber in this county for 1902 was 
 two and a half billion feet. 
 
 Mason County lies upon the west side of Puget Sound, and 
 covers the southwestern arms of that body of water. It has 
 an area of 900 square miles and a population of 3,800. Three- 
 fourths of the count}"s area is rugged and mountainous and is 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 239 
 
240 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 covered with a heavy growth of timber. Lumbering and log- 
 ging are the chief industries. It furnishes a very large propor- 
 tion of the shipments of the Olympia oysters, clams and all 
 kinds of fish that are shipped in quantities. 
 
 The river valleys are being rapidly cleared and turned into 
 farms and fruit orchards. The entire headwaters of Hood's 
 Canal are in this county, this canal affording anothei outlet to 
 the straits. 
 
 Shelton, the county seat, lies twenty-two miles northwest of 
 Olympia, and has a population of 1,353. ^^ h^s four churches, 
 graded public schools, electric light plant and two newspapers. 
 Other towns are Clifton, Grove, Hoodsport and Union City. 
 
 Chehalis County is situated west of Thurston and Mason 
 counties, and borders on the Pacific Ocean. The great estuary 
 of Gray's Harbor covers quite a portion of the county. The 
 area of the county is 2,600 square miles, and it has a popula- 
 tion of 15,124. The principal river is the Chehalis, which en- 
 ters the county from the southwest, runs eastward to Gray's 
 Harbor, and is navigable to Montesano. It has a wide and 
 rich valley, from which the timber has been cut and the land 
 utilized for farming. The county still has vast forests, the 
 manufacture of which into lumber is the chief industry at 
 Aberdeen, Cosmopolis, Hoquiam and Ocosta. Shipbuilding is 
 carried on to some extent at Hoquim, and the fishing industry 
 is quite an important factor. The winters are very mild ; there 
 is ample rainfall and grass grows luxuriantly, making this 
 county a good place for stockraising and dairying when the 
 land is cleared. The Northern Pacific reaches the county from 
 Tacoma and Portland, and a line is now building north along 
 the coast, where there is dense timber and some good sawmill 
 openings. 
 
 Montesano is the county seat, situated on the Chehalis River 
 and the Northern Pacific Railway, and has a population of 
 1,597. Aberdeen has a population of 3,747, Hoquiam 2,824; 
 Cosmopolis is owned entirely by the Grays Harbor Commercial 
 Company, which has the largest sawmill plant on Gray's Har- 
 bor, with a capacity of 200,000 feet per day ; also three shingle 
 mills, a box and trunk factory and a planing and turning mill. 
 Population, 1,000. In the northwest part of the county is the 
 Ouiniault Reservation. The hunting of elk and deer is espe- 
 cially good along the lower foothills in this locality. 
 
 Kits.SlP County belongs to the western tier of counties and 
 comprises the peninsular between Hood's Canal and Admiralty 
 
WASHINGTON 
 
 241 
 
242 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Inlet, or the main inlet of Puget Sound. It lies directly west 
 of Seattle and King County, has an area of' 400 square miles, 
 and a population of 6,796. The county is penetrated in all 
 directions by dififerent arms of the Sound, creating several land- 
 locked harbors. On Port Orchard Bay, at Bremerton, is lo- 
 cated the United States Naval Station and drydock, where 
 the largest battleships in the navy have been successfully 
 docked. Steamboats make connection with Seattle several 
 times daily. 
 
 This county has some very large saw mills, situated at Port 
 Blakely and Port Gamble, the former until recently having been 
 the largest in the United States. This county has one of the 
 chief lumbering manufacturing districts of the state. The 
 soil here is good for vegetables and fruits, as well as other 
 crops, and yields bountiful returns. The oyster business is 
 assuming considerable proportions. Sidney, the county seat, 
 seven miles west of Seattle, has a population of 794. 
 
 Jefferson County lies west of Puget Sound at the head 
 of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and extends west of the Pacific 
 Ocean. It has an area of 2,000 square miles and a population 
 of 7,512. It is extremely mountainous, covering the larger 
 part of the Olympic Mountains, and has immense forests, es- 
 pecially on the west side, where the rainfall is the greatest in 
 the state and where they are in their virgin state. Lumbering 
 is at present the leading industry, but some mining and agri- 
 cultural interests are being developed. There are three dairies 
 and cheese factories in the county, with an output of 124,840 
 pounds of butter and 53,507 pounds of cheese. Port Townsend, 
 the county seat, is a government port of entry, and is the site 
 of the United States Marine Hospital. Forts Point Wilson, 
 Alger, Marrow Stone Point and Casey are equipped with mod- 
 ern guns of the retiring pattern. The city has various manu- 
 facturing establishments, saw mills, etc. This is the last point 
 of call in the United States when leaving Puget Sound points 
 for foreign countries. Other important towns are Port Dis- 
 covery, Port Ludlow and Pleasant Harbor. The Port Town- 
 send Southern Railway extends south to Hood's Canal. 
 
 Clallam County lies south of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 
 and extends from Puget Sound to the ocean. With Jefferson 
 County it covers the Olympic Mountains, and has an area of 
 2.000 square miles and a population of 5,603. It has extensive 
 forests and the soil in the river valleys and along the coast and 
 the straits is very rich. Like all other coast counties the prin- 
 
WASHINGTON 24a 
 
 cipal industry is lumbering, but fishing is extensively carried 
 on, as halibut are caught in large quantities off Cape Flattery. 
 Good hunting and fishing can be obtained in this county, the 
 Olympics having been but slightly explored. There are two 
 lakes in the mountains, about sixteen miles from Port Angeles, 
 which afford remarkable trouting. In one of them, Lake Cres- 
 cent, seven distinct varieties of trout are found. Good coal 
 has been discovered in this county as well as several mineral 
 ledges. 
 
 Port Angeles is the county seat, and is very romantically 
 situated on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, at the base of the moun- 
 tains. Population, 2,321. It has a good harbor and daily 
 communication with the Sound cities by water, and a railroad 
 has been projected from this point across to the ocean and down 
 the coast to join with the line being built northward from 
 Grays Harbor. Other towns are Dungeness, Port Williams, 
 Clallam, Crescent and Quillayute. 
 
 Lewis County extends from the summit of the Cascades 
 on the east to Pacific County on the west, and lies 
 mainly south of Thurston and Pierce counties, cov- 
 ering the southern part of Mount Rainier National 
 Park, with an area of over 2,000 square miles. Popula- 
 tion, 15,157. This county had a great deal of timber, and 
 lumbering is still carried on extensively. The Chehalis and 
 Cowlitz rivers drain the county, the former emptying into 
 Gray's Harbor, the latter rising on the sides of Mount Rainier 
 and emptying into the Columbia River on the south. The val- 
 leys of these rivers and their tributaries afford large areas of 
 agricultural lands, on which considerable wheat is grown, and 
 there are many large orchards. This is perhaps the largest 
 agricultural county west of the Cascade Mountains. About 
 all of the government land has been taken, but some can still 
 be acquired and land can be bought cheaply. There are several 
 flour mills and a number of saw mills, which, together with coal 
 mining, farming, and dairying, constitute the industries. There 
 are thirteen dairy and cheese factories in the county. One 
 hundred and eight schools supply adequate educational facili- 
 ties. The Northern Pacific Railway main line extends north 
 and south, and a branch line runs westward to South Bend, 
 on Willapa Harbor. 
 
 Chehalis, the county seat, is situated on the Northern Pacific 
 Railway and the Chehalis River, and has a population of 1,775. 
 It is about midway between Portland, Ore., and Puget Sound, 
 
244 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
WASHINGTON 245 
 
 and has churches, one of the finest hotels of the state, large 
 saw and shingle mills, a flour mill, and the reform school. It 
 is a large shipping point. Centralia, one of the principal towns, 
 has a population of i,6oo. 
 
 Pacific County is the extreme southwest county of the 
 state, lies west of Lewis County, and is bounded on the west 
 by the Pacific Ocean and on the south by the Columbia River. 
 It has an area of 900 square miles and a population of 5,983. 
 Along the western line running north from the Columbia 
 River is a narrow strip of land enclosing Willapa Harbor. On 
 this strip a branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com- 
 pany has been built and Long Beach and other places have 
 become quite prominent resorts for Portland people. Connec- 
 tion is made at Ilwaco by Oregon Railway & Navigation Com- 
 pany boats. 
 
 Several streams enter Willapa Harbor, along which there are 
 dense forests, and the land is the very best for agricultural 
 purposes. Hop culture and dairying are the chief industries 
 outside of lumbering. Oyster culture gives employment to 
 several hundred men. Portland and many southern points are 
 served from these beds. 
 
 South Picnd is the county seat, has a population of 711, a 
 number of banks, churches, saw mills, sash and door factory, 
 and other industries. Other towns are Ilwaco, (Jvsterville, 
 Bay Center, Fort Canby, and Willapa. Fort Canby is located 
 on Cape Disappointment and is a United States fort protect- 
 ing the mouth of the Columbia River. 
 
 Wahki.\kuii CdUN'TY Hcs along the Columbia River in 
 the southwestern part of the state between Cowlitz and Pacific 
 counties. It has an area of 274 square miles and a population 
 of 2,819. Lumbering is important, but the chief source of 
 revenue is fishing. There are eight large salmon canneries on 
 the river, which emplov a large number of men and fvn'nish 
 a means of livelihood for several hundred fishermen. There 
 are twenty-two pu])lic schools in the county. Cathlamet, the 
 county seat, situated on the Columbia River, has a population 
 of 500 people, and has churches, canneries, a newspaper, etc. 
 
 Cowlitz County lies on the Columbia River in the south- 
 western part of the state. The county is mountainous but has 
 several river valleys, along the Cowlitz, Lewis and Kalama 
 rivers. There is splendid bo'ttom land along these rivers, where 
 all kinds of crops are raised, and there are many fine orchards 
 throughout the county. Coal measures to a considerable ex- 
 
246 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tent underlie this county. The Northern Pacific Railway runs 
 north and south and reaches the valley of the Columbia through 
 the Cowlitz Valley. Its cars are conveyed across the Colum- 
 bia River by ferry at Kalama, the county seat, which has a 
 population of 945, several saw mills, a bank, churches, schools 
 and a newspaper. 
 
 Skamania County lies in the Cascade Mountains, but is 
 bounded on the south by the Columbia River. It has an area 
 of 1,600 square miles and a population of 1,688. The high 
 peaks and deep gorges make this county remarkable for scenic 
 beauty. The great portion of the agricultural land borders on 
 the Columbia River, and this land yields large returns. The 
 principal industries are the manufacture of lumber, and fish- 
 ing. Stevenson, the county seat, situated on the Columbia 
 River, has a population of 338. The Cascades of the Colum- 
 
 NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY TRANSFER STEAMER, 
 ACROSS COLUMBIA RIVER AT KALAMA. 
 
 bia River gorge are at this point. Other towns are Cape Horn, 
 Mount Pleasant, and Nelson. Mount St. Helens, 10,000 feet 
 high, is situated in the northwest part of this county. The 
 usual route to this mountain is up the Lewis River. A new 
 copper district known as the Bohemia district lies north in this 
 county and has the prospect of being a great producer. Three 
 railroads are now being built to it. 
 
 Clarke County lies west of Skamania County and along the 
 Columbia River. It has an area of 600 square miles and a 
 population of 13,419. A large part of this county is quite 
 level and the land is of good quality. All the different crops 
 are successfully raised. Fruit growing is the chief industry, 
 the county being noted for the great quantity of prunes pro- 
 duced and shipped each year. The dairy interest is considera- 
 ble, the amount of butter made being over 100,000 pounds, 
 and of cheese over 200,000 pounds annually. 
 
OREGON 247 
 
 Vancouver is the county seat, situated on the Columbia,River, 
 and has a population of 4,006. The State School for Defective 
 Youth is located here, also a United States army post. This is 
 the original Hudson's Bay Co. post, and the fort played a very 
 
 GENERAL GRANT S OLD HEADQUARTERS AT VANCOUVER, WASH,, AS IT LOOKS TO-DAY. 
 
 important part in early history, General Grant, Sheridan, and 
 others who became famous in later years having been stationed 
 here. This city is but a few miles from Portland, with which 
 it is connected by ferry and an electric railway line, the cars 
 running every thirty minutes. 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 Oregon, one of the group of Pacific Northwest states, is 
 bounded on the north by the state of Washington, on the 
 south by California and Nevada, on the west by the Pacific 
 Ocean, and on the east by Idaho. Its average length from 
 east to west is 360 miles, and its mean width north and south 
 260 miles. Its estimated area is 96,030 square miles, equaling 
 the states of Ohio and Iowa combined, 1,470 square miles be- 
 ing water. Its population in 1900 was 413,536, vv'hich is to- 
 day estimated at more than 500,000. 
 
248 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The first printed mention of the word "Oregon" is in Jona- 
 than Caran's book, entitled "Travels Through the Interior 
 Parts of Xorth America," printed in London in 1778. These 
 travels had been made in 1766 and 1767. Caran applied the 
 name to the great river flowing westward from the "Stony" 
 or "Shining" Mountains, which he called the "River Oregon." 
 In 1812 Bryant immortalized it in his Thanatopsis in the fol- 
 lowing lines : 
 
 "Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound, 
 Save his own dashings — yet — the dead are there." 
 
 Early History. — The Oregon country has been a piuch 
 governed and much dissected territory. Spain, at one time, 
 claimed it, with all the Pacific Coast country from California 
 to Alaska ; Russia asserted ownership as far south as Tilla- 
 mook ; France set up a claim upon explorations made from 
 Canada, and Great Britain asserted its rights to possession on 
 the discoveries made by Captains Cook and A'ancouver, and 
 still later the occupancy by the Hudson's Bay Co. The claims 
 of the United States were based upon the discovery of Captain 
 Robert Gra}-, who entered the Columbia River and named it 
 after his vessel. Then came the Louisiana purchase in 1803 ; 
 Spain's rights were ceded to the United States by treaty in 
 i8ig; the claims of France were ignored; Russia ceded -her 
 rights to Great Britain and the United States, leaving these 
 countries to settle their differences by themselves; in 1804-5 
 Lewis and Clark explored the Columbia River, and in 1810 
 Nathaniel Winship, representing a Boston company, built the 
 first house on the banks of the Columbia at Oak Point. John 
 Jacob Astor, of New York, established a fur trading post at 
 Astoria in 181 1, which was sold to the Northwestern Fur Co. 
 in 1813, and merged into the Hudson's Bay Co., which built a 
 fort and part of what is now A^ancouver, W'ash. The Oregon 
 Country from this time until the final settlement of authority, 
 was an open country. In 1832 Captain Wyeth, of Massa- 
 chusetts, erected a fishery at the mouth of the ^^'iIlamette 
 River, and in 1834 two Methodist missionaries founded a mis- 
 sion at Salem ; then followed the Dr. Marcus Whitman party, 
 spoken of before, who settled on the Walla ^^^alla River. Whit- 
 man feared that the Oregon Country might be lost to the 
 United States, and with a single companion rode on horseback 
 to Fort Hall, now Pocatello, Idaho, then to the great Salt Lake, 
 now in Utah, thence to Santa Fe, now in New Mexico, then 
 
OREGON 
 
 249 
 
 to St. Louis, and thence by stage to Washington, tlie trip oc- 
 cupying a period of five months. His enthusiasm inaugurated 
 a series of movements which finahy settled the Oregon contro- 
 versy. In 1841-2 a tide of emigration set in and in 1843 
 Whitman piloted fully 1,000 people to the territory from Mis- 
 souri, and in that year a provisional government was set up. 
 In 1846 the international boundary c|uestion was settled, and 
 in 1848 Congress created the whole territory west of the 
 Rocky Mountains lying north of the 42° of latitude into the 
 territory of Oregon. The governorship was offered to Abra- 
 
 OLD PHIL SIIERIDAN BLOCK HOI 
 
 ham Lincoln, but was declined by him and accepted by Gen. 
 Joseph Lane, of Kansas. In 1853 Washington Territory 
 was carved out of Oregon, and in 1859 Oregon became a state. 
 
 The settlement of Oregon, immediately following the Civil 
 War, was so largely from the middle western south that it is 
 often said that Price's army never disbanded but simply went 
 into camp in Oregon. 
 
 Topography. — Oregon, topographically, is divided into two 
 very dissimilar sections, lying respectively east and west of 
 the Cascade range of mountains, which run almost due north 
 and south, parallel to the coast line, at a distance of about 100 
 
250 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 miles inland. This range traverses the state from Washington 
 to- California and has an elevation of from 4,000 to 10,000 feet, 
 with higher peaks, viz. : Mount Hood, the farthest north, 
 near the Columbia River, 1 1 ,225 feet ; Mount Pitt, to the ex- 
 treme south, 9,760 feet ; Mount Thielsen, 9,230 feet ; Mount 
 Jefferson, 10,200 feet ; and the Three Sisters, 9,420 feet. All 
 these peaks rise to the region of perpetual snow and are ex- 
 tinct volcanoes, Mount Hood probably being the last to be- 
 come extinct. From the main range cross-ranges project 
 westward, such as the Calapooia, the Rogue River and the 
 Siskiyou mountains, these ranges being in the southern part 
 of the western section of the state. The Siskiyous follow the 
 boundary between ^^'ashington and California. The Coast - 
 Range of mountains parallels the coast in a zig-zag manner, is 
 somewhat disconnected, and has an elevation of about 3,500 
 feet. At some points spurs of the Coast Range reach the 
 ocean, but in general there is an intervening belt of land from 
 twenty-five to fifty miles in width. 
 
 Between the Cascade Mountains and the Coast Range are 
 three important river valleys — the Willamette, the Umpqua, 
 and the Rogue — so named from the rivers flowing through 
 them. The Willamette Valley extends north and south be- 
 tween these mountains for a distance of 130 miles, having a 
 width of fifty miles and a general area of about 7,800 square 
 miles. It contains nearly one-half the population and wealth 
 of the state. The valley, as well as its slopes, comprise a se- 
 ries of loam lands, and the higher lands are also well soiled. 
 The Calapooia Mountains bound this valley on the south, and 
 show evidences of having been the southern boundary of a 
 valley extending as far north as Puget Sound, in Washington. 
 The Willamette River is the chief tributary of the Columbia 
 west of the Cascades. It is about 250 miles long, flows north- 
 ward, is navigable for large ships to Portland, and during two- 
 thirds of the year small steamboats ascend to Eugene, in Lane 
 Countv. about 150 miles from the mouth. The falls at Oregon 
 Citv, which afford excellent water power, have locks for the 
 use of these boats. 
 
 The Umpqua River rises in the Cascade Mountains m two 
 branches, and flows westward to the sea, between the Cala- 
 pooia Mountains on the north and the Rogue and Umpqua 
 mountains on the south. This valley is about 200 miles long, 
 is rich in soil, and produces large crops. The Rogue River 
 also has its source in the Cascade Mountains, and flows into 
 
OREGON 
 
 251 
 
252 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the ocean after a westerl)' course of about 120 miles, mostly 
 between the Rogue and the Siskiyou mountains. This valley 
 is small but rich agriculturally. 
 
 The Columbia River forms the northern boundary of the 
 state of Oregon for a distance of 300 miles, cutting the lofty 
 Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon into two parts. 
 The great gorge of the Columbia has a world-wide reputation 
 for scenic grandeur. At the Cascades, about 150 miles above 
 its mouth, the river descends 300 feet in a canyon 4,000 feet 
 deep and nearly six miles long. In cutting its pathway to the 
 sea the water has formed many curious and shapely rocks, 
 which adorn the valley at every turn and interest the sight- 
 seer. Multnomah Falls, a beautiful cascade, near Portland, 
 descends 850 feet and may be seen from boat or train. The 
 river is navigable to Priest Rapids, a point some distance above 
 the Snake River, in Washington, with the exception of Celilo 
 Falls and the Cascades ; around the latter a canal 3,000 feet 
 long, with locks, has been built by the government at an ex- 
 pense of $4,000,000, and a survey of The Dalles has been 
 made, looking to the improvement of the falls. The Snake 
 River is navigable for 165 miles, or to the mouth of the Grande 
 Ronde River. 
 
 East of the Cascade Mountains tlie Columbia River receives 
 the Des Chutes, which rises in the Cascades and flows north- 
 ward along the eaftern slope, receiving the different short 
 streams from the mountains, reaching that river a short dis- 
 tance above The Dalles. Next in importance, to the east, is 
 the John Day River, which has its source in the southern 
 slopes of the Blue Mountains, and empties into the Columbia 
 after a westerly and northerly course of 250 miles. On the 
 west side of the state the Snake River forms a boundary for 
 more than half of the whole line betwen Idaho and Oregon. It 
 IS joined by the Grande Ronde, Powder, Burnt, Malheur and 
 Owyhee rivers. 
 
 Eastern Oregon embraces all that portion ot the state lying 
 east of the Cascades, and is generally a high table land. In 
 the northeastern part it is traversed by the Blue Mountains, 
 trending northeast and southwest, with a spur running to the 
 south. These mountains have an altitude of about 7,000 feet, 
 and divide the northern half of this eastern section of the state 
 into deep valleys. Among the important offshoots of this 
 range are the Eagle Creek and Powder River mountains, enclos- 
 
OREGON 
 
 253 
 
 MULTNOMAH FALLS, OREGON. 
 
254 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ing the valle3-s of the Burnt, Powder and Grande Ronde riv- 
 ers. 
 
 In central Oregon, east of the Cascades, between the head- 
 waters of the Des Chutes and Crooked rivers, and the head- 
 waters of Silver Creek, to the north and east, in Crook, Lake 
 and Harney counties, is an extensive and comparatively barren 
 plain known as the Sage Plains. This region is very arid, but 
 irrigation is now about to be established, the soil in most 
 instances being volcanic and fertile. The major part of south- 
 eastern Oregon belongs to the Great Basin, which comprises 
 part of Utah and Nevada. This basin is estimated to cover 
 200,000 square miles, and is for the most part an arid waste. 
 The soil is fertile, but the rivers are short, losing themselves 
 in sinks. Wide lava beds are interspersed with level tracts 
 covered with sage brush, stunted pine and juniper. The 
 Steins Mountains rise in the midst of this desert and are a 
 very striking feature of the southeastern part of the state. 
 
 There are some lakes (really sinks) in the basin, whose 
 waters are strongly alkali in spring, and in summer merely 
 mud plains. Oregon has a large number of prominent lakes. 
 In Klamath County are located a number of these, the largest 
 of which take their name from the county, the upper being 
 thirty miles long and eight miles wide ; the lower extends into 
 California. These are the headwaters of the Klamath River, 
 which, flowing westward to the ocean near the boundary, be- 
 tween California and Oregon, divides the Sierra Nevada from 
 the Cascade mountains. Crater Lake, in the same county, 
 occupies the old crater of Mount Mazuma, is eight miles long 
 and six miles wide, and 1,996 feet deep, its vertical walls rising 
 from 800 to 2,000 feet. Its surface lies at an elevation of 
 6,300 feet, and the waters are clear and cold, and abound in 
 trout. This is one of the natural features of the state and is 
 reached from the line of the Southern Pacific Railway. Wall- 
 owa Lake, in the northeastern part of the state, is large, lies 
 at an elevation of 4,000 feet, and abounds in trout. Lake 
 County is the center of the lake region, the largest sheet of wa- 
 ter being Goose Lake, lying partly in California. This lake 
 is fifty miles long, and from eight to fifteen miles wide. Other 
 lakes are Christmas, or Warner, Albert, Summer, and Silver, 
 all being clear and containing plenty of fish. In Harney 
 County are two considerable lakes, Harney and Malheur (prac- 
 tically one), over thirty miles long, and from three to fifteen 
 miles wide. 
 
OREGON 
 
 355 
 
25G GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Climate. — The climate is generally very mild, due to the 
 same causes which affect the other Pacific states. The winds 
 for three-fourths of the year blow from the southwest, or off 
 the warm body of the Pacific Ocean, and the Kuroshiwo, or 
 Japanese warm current, which strikes the coast and influences 
 the temperature, far into the interior. This Asiatic stream of 
 tropical water is of considerable magnitude, being 400 miles 
 in width, and has a velocity of about four miles per hour. It 
 has the same effects as the gulf stream of the Atlantic. The 
 north line of Oregon is of the same latitude as central Maine, 
 and yet west of the Cascade Mountains flowers bloom out of 
 doors all winter. The Cascade Range makes a wide difference 
 in the temperature of the east and west sections. The range 
 of the thermometer at Portland, near the coast, is from 22° 
 to 96°, while at Baker City, in the extreme eastern part of the 
 state, the range is from — 14° to 101° ; the mean temperature 
 for the state, however, is 50° There are few, if any, sections 
 of the state in which cattle or sheep require shelter and extra 
 feeding during the winter months. The bunch grass of the 
 plains cures itself into hay^ on the groimd. 
 
 The seasons in the west section are divided into the wet and 
 the drv, rather than the winter and the summer seasons. The 
 wet season extends from November 15 to March 15, during the 
 greater part of which time rain falls copiously. On the im- 
 mediate coast the precipitation varies from 105 inches, at 
 Gold Beach, in the extreme southwestern part of the state, to 
 81.96 at Fort Stevens, at the mouth of the Columbia ; from fifty- 
 five to sixty-six inches at different points in the Willamette 
 Vallev ; in eastern Oregon from 75.73 inches, at the Cascade 
 locks, in the gorge of the Columbia, to 9.81 inches at Umatilla ; 
 and from fourteen to seventeen inches in the highlands of Lake 
 County, adjoining the California line. 
 
 Resources. — In the extent of its agricultural, mineral and 
 forest resources, Oregon ranks very high, yet its possibilities 
 for development have been only partially realized. The state 
 is largely devoted to agriculture, the western part of the state, 
 especially the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue River valleys, 
 having the highest cultivated farming lands. On the other 
 hand, eastern Oregon, which has a very fertile volcanic soil, 
 extensive areas of which, in the northeastern part of the state, 
 are devoted to the raising of the cereals, mostly wheat, without 
 irrigation, and where the land is too arid for the raising of 
 crops without irrigation, is devoted to stock grazing. In 1900, 
 
OREGON 
 
 257 
 
 
 17 
 
258 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 10,071,328 acres, or one-sixth of the total area of the state, 
 were in farms, and one-third of this amount was improved. 
 The principal farm crops were : Wheat, 14,830,000 bushels ; 
 hay and forage, 1,117,886 tons; oats, 6,725,828 bushels; and 
 potatoes, 3,761,367 bushels; value, $9,000,000; and nearly 
 2,000 cars of evaporated and green fruits; value, $1,500,000. 
 Wheat brought an average of all grades, about forty-four cents 
 per bushel ; hay and forage about $5.50 per ton ; oats about 
 thirty-one cents per bushel ; and potatoes about thirty-two cents 
 per bushel. Wheat in 1902 brought fifty-two cents per bushel. 
 The wheat crop of Oregon for 1902 was 15,512,460 bushels, 
 and in 1887 it was 16,100,000 bushels. The total irrigated 
 area in the state in 1900 was 388,310 acres, 290,256 acres being 
 under crop, and 98,054 under pasture. The wool product 
 amounted to over 20,000,000 pounds, with a value of $2,800,- 
 000. The value of stock was over $10,000,000; of dairy pro- 
 ducts, $1,500,000, and of the hop crop, $3,500,000. 
 
 The mineral resources of the state comprise all the different 
 metals, the value of the output for 1900 being, gold, $1,649,700; 
 silver (coinage value), $149,204; coal, $220,000; borax, $100,- 
 000; and stone, $21,663. The value of gold output was in- 
 creased in 1902 to $6,740,000. There are several mining dis- 
 tricts in the Cascades, in southern and western Oregon, but 
 the richest mineral belts seem to be the three mineral zones 
 of eastern Oregon, which are perhaps as large as any on the 
 American continent. One of these lies partly within the state 
 of Idaho and fringes the eastern boundary of Union, Baker 
 and Malheur counties, and is from ten to twenty miles in 
 width. Another zone begins at the Eagle Mountains, north- 
 east of Baker City, is about fifteen miles in width, and extends 
 in a southwesterly direction a distance of about sixty-five 
 miles. The third zone has the same general direction, begins 
 in the Elkhorn Mountains, is about twenty miles wide, and ex- 
 tends a distance of 100 miles. The principal districts in 
 eastern Oregon are in these zones, tributary to Baker City and 
 Sumpter. 
 
 The great natural resource of Oregon is its timber, which 
 is located largely on the west side of the Cascade Mountains, 
 where the rainfall is the greatest and the climate mild. The 
 manufacture of this timber into lumber leads all other indus- 
 tries in the value of its output, which in 1900 amounted to $10,- 
 352,167. Large tracts of timber stand in the Rogue River and 
 TJmpqua valleys, and along the Coast Range and the Cascades 
 
OREGON 
 
 259 
 
 A TWEL\-E FOOT OREGON FIR. 
 
260 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 to the Columbia River, as well as a fine body on the east side 
 of the Cascades, at the head of the Des Chutes River, and 
 several other points on the eastern slope of the Cascades, and 
 in the Blue Mountains in the northeastern part. The estimated 
 standing timber is 225,000,000,000 feet, of which 150,000,000,- 
 000 consists of fir. The damage by fire, the indiscriminate 
 waste, and the need of reservoir sites, has induced the govern- 
 ment to set aside forest reserves, and 4,500,000 acres along the 
 higher Cascades now constitute the reserves for this state. 
 
 The rafting of logs and piling and towing on the ocean to 
 San Francisco has been of late years successfully carried on. 
 These rafts are constructed into cigar shaped form, the logs 
 being firmly chained into a solid mass. The rafts are then 
 towed to sea by tugs. The largest of these rafts ever made 
 reached San Francisco in September, 1902. Its length was 
 one-eighth of a mile, it drew 24 feet of water and contained 
 6,000,000 feet of piling, scaling nearly 8,000,000 feet of lum- 
 ber, board measure. 
 
 In 1900 the manufacturing establishments of Oregon num- 
 bered 3,088, having more than doubled since 1890, due to the 
 abundant water powers, the increasing railway systems, and 
 the better condition of the roads. These establishments repre- 
 sented a capital investment of $33,422,393, and distributed 
 during the year the sum of $18,333,433 in wages to 17,236 
 employes, of which 1,821 were women. The value of the raw 
 material used was over twenty-six million dollars and the fin- 
 ished product over forty-six million dollars. Ship and boat 
 building has had quite an impetus, seventeen yards now being 
 in operation. Flour and grist mill industries rank second in 
 the state, the product values amounting to $6,364,023. The 
 canning and preserving of fish, chiefly salmon caught in the 
 Columbia River, ranks third, with products valued at $1,788,- 
 809. This industry dates from 1866, and is chiefly centered at 
 Astoria, embracing some of the canneries in Washington. The 
 salmon fisheries of the Columbia are the most extensive in the 
 world. The danger of exhausting the salmon has been averted 
 by establishing hatcheries on the river's tributaries. 
 
 In 1902 the product of the nine leading industries of the 
 state equaled $47,000,000, or more than $100 for every man, 
 woman and child in the state. 
 
 Transportation. — Oregon has a complete system of rail- 
 way communication, extending east and west across the north- 
 ern part of the state, in the lines of the Oregon Railway & 
 
OREGON 
 
 261 
 
 
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262 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Navigation Company, which follows the Columbia River, 
 through the Cascade Mountains, and connects at Hrwitington 
 with the Oregon Short Line Railway, for all Idaho and eastern 
 points, and at Umatilla and Pendleton for Spokane, Washing- 
 ton, and the Coeur d'Alene mines in northern Idaho, and 
 ramifies the great wheat plains of the Columbia Basin. The 
 connection with the Great Northern and Northern Pacific at 
 Spokane and at Butte, Montana, gives a northwestern outlet. 
 The Columbia River at present is navigable to The Dalles, 
 and the Willamette to Eugene, 146 miles. Some of the rivers, 
 rising in the coast range and emptying into the sea, are navi- 
 gable for a considerable distance. The Southern Pacific line 
 not only connects Portland and San Francisco with one main 
 line, but traverses the Willamette Valley with three other lines. 
 The Corvallis & Eastern Railway extends from Yaquina Bay 
 nearly to the summit of the Cascade Mountains, and this road 
 is expected to make a short line to the east. The Astoria & 
 Columbia River Valley Railway connects Portland with Astoria 
 and the ocean. The Columbia Southern Railway leaves the 
 Oregon Railway & Navigation Company at Biggs, east of the 
 Cascade Mountains, and is extending its road gradually up the 
 Des Chutes River, having now reached Shanico. The ocean 
 transportation, as far up as Portland, for the largest vessels 
 and the smaller coast craft, and the various seaports of the 
 state, especially Yaquina Bay and Coos Bay, afford all re- 
 quirements. The Willamette River is navigable for 150 miles. 
 Lands. — In igoo there were about 35,000,000 acres of public 
 lands open to settlement. Of these, 5,000,000 acres were school 
 lands, which are offered at from $1.25 per acre upward. 
 
 COUNTIES. 
 
 Baker County adjoins the Idaho line and lies between 
 Union County on the north and Malheur County on the south. 
 The Powder River bovmds it on the north, and most of the 
 valley of this river and of Burnt Creek, both of which empty 
 into the Snake River, Eagle and Pine valleys, are embraced 
 in this county. Farming is confined to the valleys, and irriga- 
 tion in most cases is necessary, but there is ample water for 
 all the valley land. The cereals, tame grasses and alfalfa do 
 well. The grasses of the upland furnish range for 40,000 head 
 of cattle and 15,000 sheep, and there is some dairying. Tim- 
 ber covers, in unbroken stretches, hundreds of thousands of 
 
OREGON 
 
 263 
 
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264 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 acres on the mountains, and many openings are here offered in 
 the sawmill line. Mining is the largest and most prominent 
 industry. The surrounding mines have given quite an impetus 
 to Sumpter, a thriving mining town in the Blue Mountains, 
 and the terminus of the Sumpter Valley Railway. A smelter 
 is now being constructed and an extension of the railway is 
 under way, while an electric line is being built from Sumpter 
 into the higher altitudes. The mines here are advancing 
 rapidly, new strikes having been made, showing the strength 
 and continuity of the veins. Capital from all parts of the 
 United States is being invested. The city had a population of 
 1,700 in 1900 and to-day probably has 4,000 people. It is build- 
 ing rapidly, has 150 business houses, and prices are advanc- 
 ing. 
 
 At Huntington the passengers who have been traveling on 
 the Oregon Short Line Railway through Idaho, having 
 crossed the Snake River, take the Oregon Railway & Naviga- 
 tion Company, which road conveys them either to Portland 
 or Spokane, as they may elect. This being the end of a divi- 
 sion, it is a railroad town with a population of 821. 
 
 Baker City, on the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, 
 is the county seat and the center for the agricultural and min- 
 ing regions. It had, in 1900, a population of 6,663 '^'''d today 
 probably has 7,500. It is the largest city east of the Cascade 
 Mountains, has several banks, an opera house, the most pre- 
 tentious hotel east of Portland, large business houses, a smelter, 
 sawmill, etc. A large irrigation canal on the Powder River 
 nearby will bring into use from 60,000 to 100,000 acres of land. 
 Improved lands in this county range from $20 to $40 per acre. 
 They can be had on part cash payment. 
 
 Union County, when being established, was evidently cut 
 to fit the configuration of the country, and to cover the entire 
 Grande Ronde Valley. It covers an area of about 3,000 square 
 miles, three-fourths of which have been surveyed. The un- 
 surveyed portions are mostly mountainous, but valuable for 
 timber and pasturage. The largest body of agricultural land 
 in the county is that of the celebrated Grande Ronde Valley, 
 which covers 300,000 acres of rich, level land. This is in the 
 heart of the Blue Mountains, which rise to a height of several 
 thousand feet. The Grande Ronde River flows through the 
 county in a northeasterly direction, and many other streams 
 reach it from the hills on its course. Irrigation is not required 
 at all for the cereals in this valley and but little for fruit. The 
 
OREGON 
 
 265 
 
 chief products are fruits, cereals, sugar beets, minerals, stock 
 and lumber. There are about 15,000 head of cattle and 30,000 
 sheep in the county. Fruit does remarkably well, as high as 
 thirty boxes of apples having been picked from a mature tree. 
 Prunes are also a good crop. A sugar beet factory has been 
 established at La Grande, which is annually using the beet 
 crop from 3,500 acres, and can use the product from double 
 that acreage. The land is well adapted to the raising of 
 wheat, the crop for 1900 being 2,000,000 bushels, and there 
 are good opportunities here for those desiring to raise this or 
 any other crop. Timber is abundant and there are many saw- 
 
 mill sites available. The climate is vcr}' hcalth\', the winters 
 are short and sharp, but the air is dry. Improved valley farms, 
 part cash payments, from $30 to $40 per acre. 
 
 Union, the county seat, is located on the Oregon Railway & 
 Navigation Company line, and has a population of 937. Near 
 this town is Hot Lake, which has acquired an extensive reputa- 
 tion. This is a lake of hot, steaming water, about 300 yards 
 in diameter. A hotel with bath houses affords good accommo- 
 dation for visitors. La Grande, the principal city of the 
 count}-, is located on the same railroad and has a population of 
 2,191. This is a growing town, the repair shops of the rail- 
 
266 GUIDE TO THS GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 way compam' being located here. It is also the end of the 
 mountain division. It has sawmills, a sugar beet factory, 
 banks, stores, and two newspapers. 
 
 Wallowa County lies in the northeast corner of the state, 
 is bounded on the north by Washington, on the east by Idaho, 
 and on the south and west by Union County. This county 
 partakes of the same nature as the southeastern counties of 
 Washington, lying along the Blue Mountains and covering 
 the valleys of several streams which flow into the Snake River. 
 A portion of its eastern boundary is the Grande Ronde River, 
 and the deep canyon of the Snake River borders it on the east. 
 It has a population of about 6,000, and produced in 1900 about 
 400,000 bushels of wheat, besides other cereals, and 100,000 
 pounds of butter and cheese, with considerable fruit. There 
 were 95,000 head of sheep and goats, 14,000 head of cattle, 
 and 9,000 head of horses in the county in 1900. Beans have 
 become quite an extensive crop. No irrigation is required for 
 the cereals, but it is necessary for fruit. 
 
 Enterprise, the county seat, is an inland town on the Wallowa 
 River, reached from Union, on the Oregon Railway & Naviga- 
 tion Company, by stage. Wallowa and Joseph are enterprising 
 towns. Improved lands can be bought in the county for $8 
 to $10 per acre. 
 
 Umatilla County lies west of Union County, along the 
 Washington line, and the Columbia River. Its location is di- 
 rectly south of Walla Walla County and is a part of that valley, 
 the Walla Walla River rising in this county. The Umatilla 
 River rises in the Blue Mountains and flows westward through 
 the county to the Columbia River. This county contains about 
 2,000,000 acres of agricultural lands, about one-fourth of 
 which are under cultivation. It has a population of 18,000 and 
 is considered the great wheat county of eastern Oregon, pro- 
 ducing annually about 4,000,000 bushels. The other cereals 
 are largely grown and their straw is cut for hay, but alfalfa 
 is the main dependent and is a very profitable crop. There are 
 grazing on the plains of this county about 130,000 sheep, 15,000 
 head of cattle, and 13,000 head of horses. Many sheep are 
 run upon the grain stubble during the winter, and in the sum- 
 mer pastured higher up in the mountains, where the feed stays 
 green. The soil of this county is of a volcanic character and 
 is exceedingly fertile, though semi-arid. Dairying is carried 
 on in the southern part, 300,000 pounds of butter and 100,000 
 pounds of cheese having been produced in 1900. The wool 
 
OREGON 
 
 267 
 
 PICTURED ROCKS OF THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo, rendleton, Ore. 
 
2G8 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 clip handled at Pendleton during that year amounted to 6,000,- 
 000 pounds. One hundred thousand bushels of apples were 
 raised in the county, and 20,000,000 feet of lumber manufac- 
 tured. 
 
 The summer season is very dry, the necessary moisture for 
 crop production coming in rain and snow during the wet sea- 
 son. Irrigation is required for alfalfa and for fruits. The 
 summer weather is hot, and the winters short and moderate. 
 A very large part of the wheat crop is ground by the local 
 mills, the product being sold throughout the surrounding coun- 
 try and shipped abroad. Much of the wool is cleaned and 
 manufactured at the mills in Pendleton, into blankets, which 
 have a wide reputation, especially those of the attractive Indian 
 patterns. 
 
 The soil in the volcanic wheat belt is so very light that 
 when the heavy loads of wheat are being hauled to market 
 the roads become deeply cut and several inches of dust lie upon 
 them. In casting about for a remedy, it was decided to ask 
 the general public to assist in hauling and depositing straw upon 
 the roads, and some one day be decided upon on which general 
 co-operation could be had. This day was inaugurated at 
 Walla Walla, and is now quite generally participated in. It is 
 known as "straw day," and is usually one of the early days of 
 September, the crop having been harvested by that time. In 
 1902, on this day, a grand barbecue was held at Walla Walla, 
 and 100 wagons, loaded with straw, were headed by the mayor 
 of the city and a brass band while the straw was being hauled 
 and placed upon the roads. 
 
 A novelty in the extensive wheat regions is the connection 
 of the farms by telephone by utilizing the barb wire fencing. 
 Some of the telephone companies have many hundreds of miles 
 of such line, with poles only where a "lift" is required at road 
 crossings. 
 
 Lands in this county range from $10 to $40 per acre. Stock 
 range lands from $1 to $5 per acre. The Umatilla Indian 
 Reservation occupies several townships of land in the central 
 and southern part of the county. These Indians have largely 
 intermarried with the whites. 
 
 Pendleton, the county seat, is situated on the Oregon Rail- 
 way & Navigation Company main line ; from here a branch 
 connection is made with Spokane and all northern points. 
 Pendleton is a thriving city of 5,000 inhabitants, has good 
 buildings, several banks, manufacturing establishments, and 
 
OREGON 
 
 269 
 
 carries on a prosperous trade. Umatilla is also a junction of 
 another branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com- 
 pany, extending up the Columbia River, where connection 
 from Portland is made with Spokane. Other towns are 
 Athena, Weston and Newton. 
 
 Morrow County lies west of Umatilla County and along 
 the Columbia River. This is another of the semi-arid counties 
 which raises the cereals without irrigation, about 750,000 
 bushels of wheat and 100,000 bushels of barley being produced 
 annually. The land is covered with launch grass and is well 
 adapted to stockraising, which is an extensive industrv. There 
 are some large flocks of sheep owned here, amounting in all to 
 
 A BUNCH OF OREGON SHORTHORNS RAISED AT HEPPNER. 
 
 130,000 head, and some blooded stock of the best strains. The 
 wool clip in this county reaches about2, 500,000 pounds per year. 
 The county has an area of 900 square miles and a population of 
 4,200. Lands which have been sown to wheat can be obtained 
 for from $6 to $15 per acre. The Willow River rises in the 
 Blue Mountains and flows northwest through the county. Good 
 coal in extensive beds has been found in the Willow Creek 
 district. The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company rjjain 
 line traverses the northern part of the county, and a branch 
 extends to Heppner, the county seat, which has a population 
 of 1,400, and is the headquarters for a large wool and stock 
 country to the south. This is a very prosperous town. lone 
 
270 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 is a great business town and has a population of 600. There 
 is some government land to be obtained under the government 
 laws in this county, and some very good openings are available 
 for farmers desiring to buy. 
 
 Gilliam County lies west of Morrow and along the Colum- 
 bia River, is bounded on the west by the John Day River, and 
 is traversed by Thirty Mile and Rock creeks, which flow into 
 the John Day. The surface of this county is rolling, but it 
 has little timber. It is semi-arid, the soil being fertile but re- 
 cjuiring irrigation for all crops except the cereals. Therefore 
 the principal business is stockraising, there being about 70,000 
 heacl of sheep grazing, though considerable fruit is raised, this 
 being a fine agricultural district. This is the sportsman's 
 paradise, as there is an abundance of trout in the streams, and 
 bear, deer and small game are to be found in the hills. The 
 Oregon Railway & Navigation Company traverses the north- 
 ern part of the county along the Columbia River, on which 
 railway Arlington, the principal town, is located. Condon is 
 the county seat, a small inland town in the southern part of 
 the county. There is some government land here yet untaken. 
 Lands can be had, fairly well improved, for $10 per acre. 
 
 Sherman County lies along the Columbia River and be- 
 tween the Des Chutes River on the east and the John Day 
 River on the west. It is another of the semi-arid counties, has 
 an extensive farming district, and considerable stock interests. 
 The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company main line fol- 
 lows the Columbia River on the north, and the Columbia South- 
 ern Railway has built from Biggs south through the county. 
 Moro, on the latter road, is the county seat. This is the out- 
 let of the whole Des Chutes country to the south. Its general 
 characteristics are about the same as the counties adjoining 
 to the east. This is the second largest wheat county in the 
 state, the crop for 1900 being 3,000,000 bushels. In 1902 it 
 raised one-sixth of the total wheat crop of the state. Land is 
 worth $10 per acre. 
 
 Wasco County lies along the Columbia River and extends 
 from the summit of the Cascades on the west to the Des Chutes 
 on the east in its northern part, a distance of sixty-six miles, 
 and to John Day River, on the southern part. The area of 
 thi? county is 3,315 square miles, or over 2,000,000 acres, of 
 which 81,000 are under cultivation, and over 1,500,000 remain 
 untaken. This is a large county and one of varied conditions. 
 The Columbia River here flows through the great gorge it has 
 
OREGON 
 
 271 
 
 CASTLE ROCK. COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 Copyriglit, 1901, by Geo. M. W'eister, Portland, Ore, 
 
272 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 worn or forced through the Cascade Mountains. Mount Hood 
 stands on the western boundary and from its summit a pan- 
 orama of great beauty spreads out before the eye. The Cas- 
 cade Mountains are heavily wooded on their eastern slope, and 
 from their side streams run through the plateau to the Des 
 Chutes River and northward to the Columbia. This county 
 would be classed as a semi-arid county, but it is less so than the 
 counties to the east. The uplands have a volcanic soil, and 
 produce the cereals without irrigation, while the valleys have 
 an alluvial soil susceptible of irrigation. About 750,000 
 bushels of wheat are raised annually. There are 125,000 
 sheep and goats, 5,000 head of cattle, and 5,000 head of horses 
 grazing in the county. The fruit and berry industry is very 
 important, the Hood River district having produced both 
 fruit and berries in prodigious quantities and of excellent 
 quality. Those most successfully grown are apples, pears, 
 peaches, apricots, prunes, plums, cherries, grapes and straw- 
 berries, which are shipped to the east, many reaching New 
 York, and some have even crossed the ocean. About 6,000 
 acres have been set out to orchards and 300 acres to grapes, 
 besides large districts to vines, mostly strawberries. Of the 
 1901 crop, 40,000 crates, or four-fifths of the entire straw- 
 berry crop of the county, were shipped from Hood River. 
 The estimate of the strawberry acreage in the Hood River and 
 Salmon River valleys is 350 acres, which realized a net profit 
 of $150 an acre to the owners. Hood River strawberries are 
 becoming known everywhere. Two hundred car loads were 
 shipped in 1902, less than one-tenth of the best lands of the 
 valley being under cultivation. The apples here are of a re- 
 markable size and flavor. 
 
 The climate is quite equable, the extreme being from — 12° to 
 108°, the mean being about 52°, and the rainfall averaging 
 about sixteen inches. Lumbering is a prominent business and 
 aiTords some good openings. Fruit lands under a high state of 
 cultivation are worth from $300 to $500 per acre. There are 
 other and much cheaper lands, and there are some good home- 
 steads left in more remote localities. A ten acre farm, suitable 
 for fruit, but not under cultivation, can be bought for from 
 $40 to $50 per acre. Wheat lands and stock lands, $10 per 
 acre. The population of this county in 1900 was 13,199. 
 
 The Dalles, the county seat and most prominent citv, is lo- 
 cated on the Columbia River and on the Oregon Railway & 
 _ Navigation Company. It has a population of 4,000, and is the 
 
OREGON 
 
 273 
 
 18 
 
274 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 trade center of a large agricultural region. It has good schools, 
 an academy, banks, brick and stone buildings, flour mills, two 
 large wool scouring establishments, and water works. The 
 city is one of the great wool shipping points of the United 
 States. A boat trip on the Regulator Line from The Dalles 
 to Portland is most delightful. 
 
 Hood River is a place of great prominence as a health and 
 pleasure resort, the climate is of special value to invalids, and 
 the vicinity possesses many remarkable attractions in the way 
 of magnificent scenery, being the nearest point of access to 
 Alount Hood and Alount Adams. It is a place much cele- 
 brated for its apples and strawberries, both of which are de- 
 licious. Here is located the picturesque and famous Cloud 
 Cap Inn, a structure built of fir logs, and supplied with every- 
 thing that is attractive to the traveler. Four miles from the 
 Inn is the summit of Mount Hood. Shanico, on the Columbia 
 Southern, is a great wool center and at present the outpost of 
 the upper Des Chutes country. The Warm Springs Indian 
 Reservation occupies a part of the southern end of the county. 
 
 Grant County lies west of Baker County and on the south 
 and west slopes of the Blue Mountains. Railway connection 
 has been made with Baker City via the Sulphur Valley Road, 
 which is now being extended along the John Day River. This 
 county is somewhat mountainous, but covers the fertile valleys 
 of the three forks of the John Day River. Stockraising is its 
 principal industry, there being 15,000 cattle and 100,000 sheep 
 in the county, large shipments being made annually. The 
 sawing of lumber is now opening up on account of the in- 
 creased transportation facilities. This county, being away 
 from the general line of travel, offers a good opportunity to 
 the home-seeker. Can)'on city is the county seat, and is now 
 reached by rail. 
 
 Wheeler County lies west of Grant County, covering the 
 southwestern end of the Blue Mountains and the bend of the 
 John Day River. Its characteristics are about the same as 
 Grant and Gilliam counties; it is a vast bunch grass region, 
 well watered, and now used principally for ranging stock. 
 This county also offers good opportunities to the homeseeker. 
 Fossil, the county seat, is an inland town, located on Cotton- 
 wood Creek, in the northwest part of the county. 
 
 Crook County. — This is quite a large county, being ninety 
 miles long from east to west and eighty miles wide from north 
 to south, and lying in the very center of the state. Its western 
 
OREGON 
 
 275 
 
 boundary is the summit of the Cascades and its eastern 
 Wheeler, Grant and Harney counties. It covers the eastern 
 slope of the Cascade Mountains and practically all the upper 
 Des Chutes and Crooked River territory. It is an arid county, 
 its hills are covered with grass, and for several decades has 
 been used solely for grazing thousands of head of sheep, cattle 
 and horses, there being, of the former, 175,000, and of the two 
 latter, 30,000 head. This county has made The Dalles a great 
 wool market. A large part of the covmty has been filed on 
 with a view of diverting water into the arid lands near the 
 Des Chutes River, under the Carey act, to be sold to actual 
 
 INDIAN BURYING GROUND, ME.MALOOSE ISLAND, COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 settlers in 160 acre tracts. The general elevation ranges from 
 2,500 feet to 3,500 feet above Benham Falls, or the upper 
 basin. It is estimated that if all these ditches are completed 
 over 300,000 acres will come under their services. The 
 Des Chutes River drains an immense area and the possibilities 
 are great. The population of the county in 1900 was 3,964. 
 Probably one of the best timber belts east of the Cascades is 
 at or near the head of the Des Chutes River. 
 
 Prineville, the county seat, is located on the Crooked River, 
 has an electric light plant, a water system, two newspapers, 
 and 1,000 inhabitants. It is expected that the Columbia River 
 
270 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 \'alley Railway will reach this place soon and that the Cor- 
 vallis & Eastern Railway will cross the county on its way east 
 and probably form a junction at this point. 
 
 Malheur County is in the extreme southeastern corner of 
 the state. It is another large county, being sixty miles wide 
 and 120 miles long, having an area of over 7,000 square miles. 
 The principal rivers are the Owyhee and Malheur, both of 
 which are large streams. The surface of the county is of a 
 high altitude and very dry. The lands along the streams are 
 quite fertile and frequently spread into grass valleys of con- 
 siderable width. Those along the two large rivers are con- 
 sidered the best in the county. The United States government 
 has been investigating this section and the report is that' irri- 
 gation is feasible over small areas. There is much government 
 land available. Considerable placer mining has been carried 
 on from time to time from the date of the early settlers cross- 
 ing this count}', and there is a prospect of good mines being 
 opened. Himtington is the nearest railway point. There are 
 ^0,000 head of cattle and horses and 300,000 sheep grazing 
 in the county. 
 
 A-'ale is the county seat, located on the Malheur River in the 
 northern part of the county. There is a paper published at 
 this place and another at Ontario. 
 
 Harney County is one of the southern tier of counties lying 
 west of Malheur. It has a total area of 9,986 square miles, 
 more than the states of Rhode Island and Massachusetts to- 
 gether, and has a population of 3,000.. Its surface is made up 
 of rolling hills, deep canyons, the lofty Steins Mountains and 
 lakes and streams. The scenery here is unsurpassed, the cli- 
 mate is arid, and the soil is good along the creek bottoms, pro- 
 ducing a variety of grasses. The crops raised are wheat, bar- 
 ley and rye. No irrigation has yet taken place. Sixty thou- 
 sand head of cattle, as many sheep, and 15,000 head of horses 
 are now being grazed. Huntington, on the C)regon Railway & 
 Navigation Company, is the nearest railroad point. Burns, 
 the county seat, has a population of 600. The western part of 
 this county belongs to the desert tract spoken of in the general 
 matter. 
 
 Lake County is another of the southern tier of counties and 
 extends from the Nevada line to Crook County on the north, 
 and lies west of Harney County. It embraces a territory of 
 8,000 square miles and contains some of the best farming and 
 grazing lands in the state. The country is arid, but the soil is 
 
OREGON 
 
 277 
 
 
278 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 
 ■r% 
 
 '■^' 
 
 
 ;, 
 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 
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 'J, 
 
 principally a sandy loam, easilv worked, 
 and retains sufficient moisture to insure the 
 maturing of crops. The cereals, grasses 
 and vegetables do well. This county has an 
 abundance of timber and there are some 
 good openings here. Stock sales in 1900 
 amounted to over a million dollars. Recent 
 estimates give 30,000 head of cattle and 
 300,000 head of sheep as grazing. 
 
 Lake View, the county seat, is located 
 five miles north of Goose Lake, and has 
 good buildings, good mail facilities, and a 
 population of 1,000. Stage communication 
 is had with Ashland, on the Southern Pa- 
 cific. There are many lakes in this county 
 and the elevation is high. The extreme 
 % northern part belongs 
 
 to the sage plains, or 
 desert territory, where 
 the streams sink. If 
 the Great Central 
 Railway, projected 
 from Coos Bay, is ex- 
 tended across the Cas- 
 cades, it will cross the 
 county east and west, 
 and it is believed that 
 the extension of the 
 
 8^1- 
 
 A LOG CHUTE. 
 
UKliljUINI 
 
 279 
 
 Columbia Southern Railway will meet it somewhere in the Sil- 
 ver Creek Valley. 
 
 Klamath County extends from Lake County on the east 
 to the summit of the Cascades on the west, and is the last of 
 the counties in eastern Oregon. It lies very high, mostly at 
 at elevation of about 4,200 feet ; is well watered and therefore 
 can be irrigated, and raises grain in abundance. It has an 
 area of about 4,000,000 acres, of which one-third is timber, 
 estimated to possess fifteen billion feet of sugar and yellow 
 pine. The county is pre-eminently fitted for stockraising and 
 is noted for its stock shipments, the cattle far exceeding the 
 sheep. It is one of the most attractive counties of Oregon, 
 but being without transportation its settlement has scarcely 
 begun; it now has a population of about 4,000. In 1900 eight 
 
 THRESHED AND SACKED. 
 
 thousand acres were under cultivation, more than 100,000 
 bushels of grain were raised, over 100,000 tons of hay cut. 
 100,000 pounds of butter and cheese made, thirteen thousand 
 bushels of fruit was picked, and 1,000,000 feet of lumber was 
 sawed. 
 
 This county is attracting considerable attention at present, 
 due to the near prospect of transportation, and irrigation works 
 under the Carey act. The county is traversed by mountain 
 streams abounding in trout, and is dotted with lakes, of which 
 Klamath and Crater have been previously mentioned. These 
 will certainly in time make this county a great resort. Cres- 
 cent Lake, another lake five miles long, lies in the northern 
 part ; the whole county is volcanic and abounds in springs, 
 lakes and underground rivers. Two ditches from Little Kla- 
 
280 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 math Lake have for several years irrigated 20,000 acres of 
 land. Four new ditches that will water 10,000 acres have 
 been made from the forks of Sprague River ; two new ditches 
 on the Klamath Reservation will cover 50,000 acres ; in addi- 
 tion several other projects are on foot. Alfalfa does well here 
 and dairying has been very profitable. This county is advanc- 
 ing and offers good opportunities. The county seat is Ivlamath 
 Falls, the population of which is about 700. Two papers are 
 published here and it has a stage line to Ashland, on the 
 Southern Pacific, the air line distance being fifty miles. 
 
 THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY. 
 
 The counties of this valley are Multnomah, Clackamas, Mar- 
 ion, Linn, Washington, Yamhill, Polk, Benton and Lane, and 
 comprise all the territory west of the Cascade Mountains lying 
 between these mountains and the Coast Range, and extending 
 from the Columbia River to the Calapooia Mountains, the 
 dividing ridge between this and the Umpqua Valley on the 
 south. This is the principal valley of the state, and constitutes 
 the wealthiest portion of Oregon. It is drained by the Willa- 
 mette River, which is navigable for 150 miles. The valley has 
 an average width of sixty miles and an area of 7,800 square 
 miles. From the Coast Range flow the Coast Fork, the 
 Tualatin, Chehalem, Yamhill, La Creole, Luckiamute, Marys, 
 Long Tom and Calapooia rivers, and many come in also from 
 the east, or Cascade side. Some of these rivers are navigable 
 and each drains a considerable country. The flanks, or slopes 
 of this wonderful valley are covered with forests, valuable for 
 lumber. The elevation of the center of the valley ranges from 
 seventy feet at the base of the falls at Oregon City, to 400 
 feet at the southern part of the valley. The level bottoms of 
 the valley are mostly prairie land, but surrounding this is a belt 
 of rolling land, verging into the hills and mountains. This is 
 a very valuable part of the valley, has a very rich soil, and its 
 products are more diversified than those of the lower valley. 
 These foot-hill lands lie at an elevation of from 500 to 2,000 
 feet, and have been found especially adapted to fruit. The 
 low altitude of this valley and its mild and moist climate make 
 all kinds of products grow in abundance — the cereals, veg- 
 etables, hops, fruits, and everything common to a temperate 
 clime. In 1900 it produced 2,700,000 bushels of wheat. 
 
 We will describe the counties along the east bank of the 
 
UKbGUiNI 
 
 281 
 
 BELLE OF WISHRAM. TKE BEADED DRESS SHE WEARS IS OF GREAT VALUE, 
 
 Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore, 
 
282 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Willamette first. The land in Multnomah County, lying in 
 the Columbia and Willamette valleys, is rolling, but mostly 
 valley land, and is devoted to hop raising and gardening, being 
 so near the city of Portland. Lumber manufacturing is car- 
 ried on extensively both on the Columbia and Willamette at 
 Portland. 
 
 Portland is a beautiful city of 125,000 inhabitants, situated 
 on the Willamette River, twelve miles from its junction with 
 the Columbia, and no miles from the ocean. It is the chief 
 city of Oregon, and, lying so near Washington, controls much 
 of that trade in addition to the trade of Oregon. The claim is 
 made, and it seems to be well established, that Portland is one 
 of the wealthiest cities per capita in the United States. Large 
 steamers and sailing craft from all parts of the world come 
 to the wharves here for wheat, flour and lumber. Lumber is 
 manufactured on a vast scale and flour milling is one of the 
 largest industries. In addition to the water communication by 
 steamers on the Columbia and Willamette rivers, and the ocean 
 fleets sailing to domestic and foreign ports, Portland is a great 
 railway center. The Southern Pacific lines not only ramify 
 the Willamette \'alley, but are a part of a through system to 
 the south and to the east. To the north the Northern Pacific 
 connects with Puget Sound and British Columbia points, and 
 is a part of the vast railway system throughout the north- 
 western states to the great lakes. The Oregon Railroad & 
 Navigation Company, whose lines pass up the Columbia River, 
 joining the L'nion Pacific lines at Huntington, and by the 
 north and south route at Pocatello, give a choice of route to 
 St. Paul through Montana or eastward direct to Chicago. This 
 road reaches the vast wheat fields of the Columbia Basin 
 through the great gorge of the Columbia, thus saving the moun- 
 tain climb of the other railways, and makes another eastern 
 connection at Spokane. There is strong probability of a bridge 
 spanning the Cokmibia River at Vancouver, which will allow 
 the cut-ofT line of the Northern Pacific to enter the city without 
 making the circuitous route by way of Puget Sound. The 
 Columbia River & Astoria Railway reaches Astoria and the 
 ocean, and thus all points of the compass are covered. 
 
 The shipments of wheat to Europe have been regal ; of flour 
 to the Orient vast, and the largest of lumber cargoes that have 
 ever been sent from any port in the United States have gone to 
 Vladivostock and other Oriental, South American and South 
 African ports. The imports have also been large, comprising 
 
OREGON 
 
 283 
 
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284 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 such articles as tea, coffee, sugar, silks, rice, etc. Fifty-three 
 steamships, with an average capacity of 5,000 tons, left the 
 Portland docks with export cargoes in 1 90 1. They carried, be- 
 sides wheat and lumber, flour, cotton, paper, beer, fish products, 
 fruits, stock, wool and miscellaneous merchandise. In 1902 
 fifty-five such ships cleared from the Portland docks. Tliir- 
 teen ships took 36,000,000 feet of lumber, an average of nearly 
 3,000,000 feet to the cargo. Craft carrying grain only from 
 this port numbered 130. The fleet in this enormous business 
 covers ships, both steam and sail, of all sizes, and under almost 
 every flag, the outgoing and returning cargoes making up a 
 mighty commerce from this port. Portland claims for Septem- 
 ber, 1902, a record breaking month on grain exports, a total of 
 the cereals of 1,177,330 bushels having been exported. More 
 than one million dollars was spent in 1902 in improving Port- 
 land's harbor. 
 
 The only water-level pass through the mountains, from 
 Mexico to British Columbia, is occupied by the Oregon Rail- 
 road & Navigation Company, and this has had as much influ- 
 ence as any in making Portland the financial and commercial 
 center it is to-day. New and great ships are being added to the 
 present fleet to connect with the Harriman lines, and the city 
 itself is reaching out on every hand. 
 
 The latest movement for extension and notice to the world 
 is the great Lewis and Clark Centennial and Oriental Fair, 
 to be held in Portland in 1905, commemorative of that famous 
 expedition which contributed so much to the winning of the 
 Oregon Country to the United States. This expedition is 
 treated in the early history of the Northwest. The Fair is in 
 the hands of a strong executive board. It has the approval and 
 support of the people of the Northwest, and its success is as- 
 sured. 
 
 Portland is a city of refinement and fine residences. Its 
 hotels surpass any in the Northwest ; its public buildings are 
 substantial and ornate. Its educational institutions are many 
 and its modern improvements equal to any eastern citv. Port- 
 land is an extremely healthy city, the sanitary requirements 
 being the best, the water in use being procured from the clear 
 running streams on the sides of Mount Hood. The climate is 
 salubrious. 
 
 The jobbing trade of Portland for 1902 was $150,000,000, 
 the value of the manufactures $35,000,000, and about one- 
 fourth of the wheat of the entire Pacific Coast has been shipped 
 
OREGON 
 
 285 
 
286 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 from this port. The city boasts of 1,500 business firms, rated 
 at $50,000,000, while its bank clearances for 1902 amounted to 
 $151,000,000. It has four national banks and ten private 
 banks, the deposits in which aggregate over $25,000,000. The 
 city has an able and enterprising press, consisting of news- 
 papers, morning and evening dailies and weeklies, and com- 
 mercial and financial papers. 
 
 To see Portland rightly one should take the street car to 
 the highlands above the city on the west, where, on a clear 
 day, can be seen a wide expanse of territory. In the immediate 
 foreground the city itself, with the Willamette River and its 
 foreign fleets, separating the eastern and western parts ; far 
 to the right rises majestic Mount Hood; still farther to the 
 south Mount Jefferson ; to the left and north of the Columbia 
 River, Mount Adams ; farther to the left, appearing almost 
 at your very door, stands Mount St. Helens ; while very far to 
 the north the top of grand old Mount Rainier can be seen — five 
 in all, a procession of snow-clad peaks unequaled in any coun- 
 try. 
 
 A move is now on foot to build an electric road from^ Port- 
 land to Mount Hood, to be completed in time for the exposi- 
 tion. \'ery interesting trips can be made from Portland to 
 Willamette Falls, Astoria and the mouth of the Columbia River, 
 by steamers and by rail, also to Vancouver, Washington, the 
 army post and original Hudson's Bay Company fort by steamer 
 or electric car, and last, but not least, the trip to the Cascades 
 of the Columbia, which no one should miss. 
 
 There is a mountain climbing club, with headquarters at 
 Portland, which calls its members "The Mazamas." It has 
 successfully conducted outings to Mount Hood and to Crater 
 Lake, Oregon, and Mount Adams, and also to Mount Rainier, 
 in \\'ashington, at stated intervals. These excursions are 
 open to all lovers of nature. The name "Mazama" is from the 
 Spanish, meaning mountain goat. This club has a membership 
 throughout many states, which is limited to those who have 
 climbed to the summit of a snow clad peak that is acceptable 
 to the club. Mountaineering has received cj^uite a stimulus 
 from this organization. 
 
 In Clackamas County the soils are either a sandv loam, 
 a black loam, or, on the uplands, a red loam, and •■•are 
 generally very rich. Oregon City is the county seat and is 
 situated twelve miles above Portland, on the Willamette River, 
 with which it is connected by the Southern Pacific Railway, an 
 
OREGON 
 
 287 
 
288 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 electric line, and several steamboat lines. The falls of the 
 Willamette River here afford as fine a water power as there 
 is in the United States. This makes Oregon City a manufac- 
 turing point. The horsepower of the falls is 50,000 as against 
 JMinneapolis' 20,000. Woolen, flour, pulp and paper mills, 
 a shoe factory, and other industries, are located here, besides 
 the plant of the Portland General Electric Co., one of the 
 largest of its kind in the west. These plants employ altogether 
 more than 1,000 men. The population within a radius of one 
 mile is about 6,000. Boat transportation is afforded up and 
 down the river, as locks have been constructed, which admit 
 steamboats to the upper river. 
 
 The western part of Marion County is very le-^el, is mostly 
 good farming land, and aggregates about 450,000 acres. The 
 soils are much more diversified, and the lower lands are much 
 damper than the hilly lands, which makes two distinct seed 
 times and harvests. This is distinctively an agricultural, 
 stock and dairy county. Salem is the county seat of Marion 
 County and the capital of the state. It has a population of 
 about 12,000, is located on the Willamette River and the Soutli- 
 ern Pacific Railway. It has, besides the capitol, other public 
 buildings — a city hall, federal building, insane asylum, peniten- 
 tiary and state blind school. Salem is a handsome city, with 
 broad streets, and is a noted social center. All lines of busi- 
 ness are represented. In manufacturing there are woolen 
 mills, flour mills, woqdcn and metal ware and other mechanical 
 plants. A large warehouse for the reception of wheat and 
 other produce has been established, and a fruit cannery is also 
 located here. The city has boat and rail connections. 
 
 Linn County is a large and good agricultural county, com- 
 prising 2,400 square miles. It still has a vast area of timber 
 land, to the manufacture of which quite a share of the popula- 
 tion of the eastern part of the county are devoting themselves. 
 The general character of the soil is a dark loam, and wears 
 well. All kinds of grain (except corn), fruit and vegetables, 
 are successfully grown, wheat being the staple cereal through- 
 out the valley. This being about the heart of the valley it may 
 be well to state that the range of the mercury here is from 
 30° to 85°, although there are some exceptions. Snow is sel- 
 dom seen, and there is ample rainfall. Good stock has been 
 bred in most of the counties and especially in this one, and 
 dairying is one of its leading assets. Farms on the prairie can 
 be bought for $30 per acre, and in the foot hills for from $5 
 
OREGON 
 
 289 
 
 19 
 
290 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 to $15. These prices are a good average for so old a settled 
 country. There are openings in the valley for more saw mills, 
 wood factories of different kinds, and canning establishments. 
 The Southern Pacific Company's lines traverse the county 
 north and south, and the Corvallis & Eastern Railway east and 
 west. The western terminus of this road is at Yaquina Bay, 
 on the Pacific Ocean, and the eastern terminus is near the sum- 
 mit of the Cascade Range. It is expected the road will cross 
 the mountains at Minto Pass and form a short line through 
 eastern Oregon. Albany, the county seat, with a population 
 of 4,200, is situated on the Willamette River and at the junc- 
 tion of the two railways. It has graded schools, a Presbyterian 
 College, a Catholic Academy, woolen mill, two flouring mills, 
 cheese factory, iron works, tile factory, and fruit dryers. A 
 high bridge, costing $100,000, crosses the Willamette River. 
 
 Lane County is the most extreme southern county of the 
 valley, lying against the Calapooia Mountains, and extending 
 from the Cascade Mountains to the ocean, crossing the Coast 
 Range. It covers the entire headwaters of the Willamette 
 River, with all its branches, and the Siuslaw and Idds rivers, 
 which empty into the sea. It covers an area of about 7,000 
 square miles, which is exceedingly diversified, a large part be- 
 ing susceptible to cultivation. The mountain part is covered 
 with dense timber and in consequence lumber manufacturing 
 is extensive. The estimated standing timber is about 29,000,- 
 000,000 feet — more than any other county in the state. One- 
 third of the valley is prairie land and the balance foothills and 
 mountains. The foothills afford fine grazing, and are also 
 adapted to fruits. Wheat has been the principal product, but 
 fruits are now excelling. Hop growing is being practiced 
 quite extensively and there are now about 1,000 acres in hops. 
 The numerous valleys and hills afford excellent opportunities 
 for diversified farming. Eugene, the county seat, is located 
 on the Southern Pacific, and is the head of navigation on the 
 Willamette River. It has a population of 3,236, good build- 
 ings, numerous factories, tvi'O tanneries, and water works. It 
 is the seat of the State University of Oregon, but the adjunct 
 Schools of Medicine and Law are located at Portland. Siuslaw 
 Bay admits vessels of fair size, which trade with San Francisco 
 and Portland, the principal commodities being salmon, lumber, 
 and agricultural products. On the river of this name are saw 
 mills, canneries, the thriving town of Florence, and consider- 
 able land adapted to fruit and dairying. 
 
OREGON 
 
 291 
 
 The counties lying on the west bank of the Willamette River 
 will now be taken up. After Lane County comes Benton, a 
 small county lying between the river and Lincoln County, which 
 lies on the coast, and is traversed by the Southern Pacific 
 through its northern part, and the Corvallis & Eastern from 
 east to west. The county is more or less mountainous, but 
 along the valleys of the Marys and Willamette rivers is well 
 settled and improved. This is quite a stock county. Hops, 
 fruits and berries are raised in large quantities. Corvallis is 
 the county seat, situated on both the roads mentioned and on 
 the Willamette River. It has a population of 1,819, is the seat 
 
 
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 STEEL BRIDGE OVER THE WILLAAIETTE RIVER AT ALBANY. 
 
 of the State Agricultural College and other educational insti-. 
 tutions. 
 
 Polk County has an area of 750 square miles, of which 112,- 
 500 acres were in cultivation in 1900, from which was pro- 
 duced 1,300,000 bushels of wheat, 1,800,000 pounds of hops, 
 1,500,000 pounds of dried prunes, and 11,000,000 feet of lum- 
 ber. This tells the story of many of the counties. The soil 
 on the hills is a reddish loam, and in the valleys a dark loam, 
 all being very fertile. This section was the seat of the first 
 white settlement west of the Missouri River. Dallas is the 
 county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific, whose two lines 
 traverse the eastern part of the county north and south. A 
 
292 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 local railroad has been built from Dallas southwest into the 
 mountains, which serves as a commercial and logging road 
 combined. Dallas is making great progress. 
 
 Yamhill County, termed the banner county, from its agricul- 
 tural display at the state fair, contains an area of 756 square 
 miles and has a population of 13,420. It covers the valley of 
 the Yamhill River and other smaller valleys. Steamboats, by 
 the aid of locks, ascend the Yamhill to JMcMinnville, the county 
 seat. This is another of the old settled counties, dating back 
 to the '40's. There are under cultivation about 117,000 acres 
 of land, which produce bountifully. Most of this county is 
 prairie land. In 1902 i,-|00,ooo bushels of wheat was pro- 
 duced; 1,200 carloads of hops; 250 carloads of prunes; 200 
 of apples ; ninety of pears, and twenty-five of cherries ; besides 
 which many carloads of peaches, plums and berries were 
 shipped. The hop culture of Oregon is mainly centered in the 
 counties of Marion, Yamhill, Clackamas, Polk and Washing- 
 ton, and the estimated crops of these counties in 1900 was 
 3,000,000 pounds. Oregon had 15,000 acres under cultivation 
 out of the 54,000 acres in hops throughout the United States, 
 New York leading with 25,000; California, 7,000; Washington, 
 6,500. When hops bring ten cents per pound the net profits 
 of the farmer is about $40 per acre, and many years the price 
 is double and even more. McMinnville, the county seat, is 
 located on the Yamhill River, and on the Southern Pacific 
 Railway. The population is 1,420. It has two banks, two 
 flour mills, water and light plants, good schools, and a Baptist 
 College. Two lines of the Southern Pacific Railway traverse 
 the county and cross at Whiteson. 
 
 Washington County is the last of the true Willamette coun- 
 ties. It extends from the Coast Range to the very suburbs 
 of Portland. It is located in a basin, lying between the 
 Chehalem Hills, the Coast Range and the Portland Mountains. 
 The soil is a loam, imderlaid with a clay subsoil. The county 
 covers many valleys, but mainly that of the Tualatin River. 
 There are large tracts of timber in the mountainous portions. 
 This is a good agricultural county, well adapted to all kinds 
 of products and to dairying, especially since the proximity to 
 Portland affords the farmer the opportunity of driving to the 
 citv, thereby saving transportation charges on his product. 
 Hillsboro is the county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific, 
 and has a population of 1,200. It owns its water works and 
 electric light plant. There are opportunities here for those 
 
OREGON 
 
 293 
 
294 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 who desire to make a thriving suburban city, for the distance 
 of twenty-four miles from Portland will admit of its being 
 made a residence town. 
 
 Columbia and Clatsop Counties. — These counties lie 
 along the Columbia River, being bounded on three sides by the 
 river and the Pacific Ocean. Columbia County contains 723 
 square miles, and is mostly covered with a dense growth of 
 fir, from which it is not unusual to cut from 80,000 to 100,000 
 feet of logs from a single acre, and from 6,000,000 to 12,000,- 
 000 feet from a quarter section of land. The soil along the 
 Columbia River bottoms is alluvial, and in the interior a clay 
 loam. The chief industries are lumbering, stockraising, dairy- 
 ing and fishing. The county seat is St. Helens, on the Astoria 
 & Columbia River Railroad, and has a population of 1,258. 
 There are several canneries and mills located along the Co- 
 lumbia River. 
 
 Clatsop County is the extreme northwesterly county of the 
 state. Its surface is somewhat mountainous. In the center 
 stands a prominent mountain known as Saddle Mountain, 
 from which all the rivers radiate to the Pacific Ocean, and the 
 Columbia and Nehalem rivers. This county is cut up by navi- 
 gable bays and rivers, which afford access to most parts. The 
 Lewis and Clark River, which reaches the Columbia west of 
 Astoria, is made famous by the party which wintered on its 
 west bank, two miles above its mouth, in 1 805-6. This county 
 is covered by dense forests of fir, spruce, cedar and hemlock, 
 except the tideland and the Clatsop plains, which extend along 
 the seashore for twenty miles, with an average width of two 
 miles. These plains produce grass, oats, fruits and vegeta- 
 bles for stock. This is essentially a grass growing county, 
 and in consequence has large dairy interests. There are some 
 good cranberry marshes on the peat lands between the plains 
 and the uplands. The greater portion of the timber is fir, but 
 spruce is found in large quantities ; also considerable curly 
 maple, hemlock, cedar and larch. This is one of the most 
 heavily timbered counties in the state. Game is very plentiful, 
 consisting of bear, deer and elk, and trout abound in all the 
 streams. 
 
 Astoria is the headquarters for the salmon catching and 
 canning business, which is the greatest industry along the Co- 
 lumbia River. Nineteen canneries are located there, and nine- 
 teen other canneries are tributary to the city, representing over 
 $2,000,000 capital, giving employment to about 5,000 men and 
 
OREGON 
 
 295 
 
 yielding an annual product of $3,000,000. The city in addi- 
 tion shipped 28,865,000 pounds of salmon in 1901, or 1.443 
 carloads of ten tons each, and shipments have run over 2,000 
 carloads per year. To the existence of this industry Astoria 
 largely owes its being. It is estimated that during the 
 past twenty-five years the Columbia River has yielded a value 
 of $75,000,000 in fish, nearly all of which has been, in a man- 
 ner, put in circulation in this city. There has never been a 
 failure of this crop, and it is therefore one of Oregon's great- 
 est and surest resources. At present fully one-half of the 
 
 NORTH HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, COLU.MBIA RIVER. 
 
 population of Oregon and Washington, living near the mouth 
 of the great river, are engaged in this pursuit. The spring 
 season, or run, of salmon, lasts for four months, from April 
 15 to August 15, meaning $750,000 monthly to those inter- 
 ested. The salmon are now not only canned, but pickled, and 
 also frozen, for shipment to diiTerent parts of the world. One 
 and one-half million pounds of steel-head salmon were frozen 
 in 1902. 
 
 Astoria's beginning dates back to 181 1, the landing of the 
 Astor party. Owing to traitorous partners, the fur business 
 
296 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 became a failure, and there was not a white family left on the 
 bay in 1846, so its business history is after all one of compara- 
 tively recent date. The city is located on the south side of the 
 great bay or mouth of the Columbia River, which is seven 
 miles in width at this point. The city is built partially over the 
 tide flats on piling, and partly on the hillside. The residence 
 portion lies higher up. It has a population of about 10,000 
 people, who represent probably every nationalit;^ on earth. 
 It is the second city in size in the state, and certainly with its 
 commanding position as a portal to the ocean, must become a 
 maritime city of importance. The resources and position of 
 this city should support a population of at least 100,000 people. 
 
 Vow^-rtsj 
 
 FISHING BOAT 
 
 fN THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 Its saw mills must manufacture into lumber its extensive 
 forests ; its fisheries must continue. Mr. A. J. Johnson, the 
 government forestry expert, says : "The mouth of the Colum- 
 bia River has the greatest body of timber tributary and avail- 
 able of any point in the world." The estimate of timber stand- 
 ing accessibly at this point is 75,000,000,000 feet. The cli- 
 mate here is mild, the mean maximum for August being 68° 
 and the mean minimum for January 35.7° The precipita- 
 tion for the year was 67.69. 
 
 Astoria is connected with Portland and the upper river by 
 several lines of steamers, and with Portland by the Astoria & 
 
OREGON 
 
 297 
 
2i)S GUIDE TO 1ME GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Columbia River Railway. It is a lively cosmopolitan city, with 
 all needed sanitary improvements. Fort Stevens is located at 
 Point Stevens. From this point a jetty is being built by the 
 government, projecting four and a half miles into the Pacific 
 Ocean, at an expense of $5,000,000, to deepen the water on 
 the bar at the mouth of the river. There are many small sta- 
 tions on the Astoria & Columbia River Railway along the 
 ocean beach, from Seaside to the fort. These offer summer 
 outings for the people, while on the Washington side of the 
 river north of Ilwaco is perhaps as fine a stretch of beach as 
 can be found in the United States. This is reached by the 
 Oregon River & Navigation Co. steamers and a short hne of 
 railway. 
 
 Tillamook County lies on the ocean south of Clatsop and 
 has sixty miles of sea coast, with six different rivers discharg- 
 ing into the ocean. The Wilson River discharges into Tilla- 
 mook Bay, which at high tide has an average of sixteen feet 
 of water. Each of the six rivers referred to flows through a 
 rich timber belt, and each furnishes a large amount of rich 
 bottom land suitable for agriculture. This county has become 
 a great stockraising and dairy center, for which it is particu- 
 larly adapted. There are greater undeveloped resources here 
 than in any other part of the state, perhaps, and there are good 
 openings for men with small means. The rainfall is about the 
 same as Clatsop County, being not far from 100 inches. Tilla- 
 mook, the county seat, has a population of 834, is located on 
 Hoquarton Slough, at the head of the bay, and is a thriving 
 town. 
 
 Lincoln County lies on the Pacific Ocean south of Tilla- 
 mook County. From the summit near the boundary with Ben- 
 ton County rises the Yaquina River, which flows westerly and 
 empties into the bay of the same name. The Alsea River flows 
 westward through the southern part of the county, and the 
 Stiletz through the northern part. Along these streams farms 
 are located, producing the cereals, fruits and vegetables. The 
 Stiletz Valley is very rich, but most of it belongs to the Stiletz 
 Indian Reservation. The Yaquina River is navigable for 
 twenty miles, and steamers enter and depart for San Fran- 
 cisco and other ports. The principal towns are Newport, Ya- 
 quina and Toledo. The Corvallis & Eastern Railway makes 
 its terminus here. There are canneries at Newport, Alsea and 
 Kernville. There is much business transacted at the mouth 
 of the Yaquina and in summer time it is a resort for all the 
 
OREGON 
 
 299 
 
 -K 
 
300 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 upper Willamette Valley. Toledo, the county seat, on Yaquina 
 Bay, has a population of 302. The only places in the United 
 States where the rock oyster is found are at Newport and south 
 along the Coos County coast. These oysters are rare and 
 finely flavored. They are found in cells in the sand rock be- 
 
 low high tide. 
 
 Douglas County lies mainly between the Calapooia Moun- 
 tains, on the north, and the Rogue River Mountains, on the 
 south, and extends from the Cascade Mountains to the ocean, 
 covering the valley of the Umpqua River and its tributaries. 
 
 AN OREGON DAIKY FARM. 
 
 This is the beginning of what is ordinarily termed southern 
 Oregon, which is the territory encompassed by the Calapooia 
 the Siskiyou mountains and extending from the Cascades to 
 the ocean. This coimty has a frontage on the ocean of only 
 twenty-five miles, the Coast Range of mountains coming well 
 down to the beach, leaving little agricultural country between 
 the beach and the mountains. The latter are densely tim- 
 bered and lumbering is carried on extensively. The estimated 
 standing timber in this county is 24,000,000,000 feet, the sec- 
 ond largest stand in the state. The mouth of the Umpqua 
 
OREGON 
 
 K 
 
 301 
 
302 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 River furnishes an excellent harbor for coasting schooners. 
 Salmon canning, lumbering, placer and quartz mining are 
 among the principal industries, although agriculture and stock 
 raising are prominent. There are 21,150 cattle and 30,000 
 sheep grazing in this county. The total output of gold for 
 southern Oregon for the year 19O0 was $1,630,000, of which 
 Douglas County furnished $280,000. Oil has been found here 
 and several wells have been sunk. 
 
 Within the grand valley of the Umpqua, in the middle and 
 eastern part of the county, are many valleys, plains, gorges 
 and hills. There are two classes of soil — the sandy loam on 
 the river and creek bottoms, which is very rich, and an upland 
 loam, on the benches, also rich but not so lasting. The foot- 
 hills have fine grazing lands and in this county there is game 
 in abundance. The cereals, grasses and fruits all do well here, 
 and dairying is becoming well established. In 1900 the county 
 raised 300,000 bushels of wheat, 205,000 pounds of hops and 
 150,000 pounds of butter and cheese were made. There were 
 shipped $200,000 in value of prunes, $175,000 in cattle and 
 $1,000,000 in value in lumber. The Southern Pacific tra- 
 verses the county north and south. 
 
 Roseburg, the county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific 
 Railway, and the Umpqua River, is supposed to be the junc- 
 tion with the proposed Great Central Railway from Coos Bay. 
 It has a population of 3,000, good hotel accommodations, two 
 banks, two flour mills, electric light, water and sewerage sys- 
 tems. The Soldiers' Home and the United States land office 
 are located here. Oakland and Drain are located on the South- 
 ern Pacific, the latter place having the State Normal School, 
 and there are other good towns in the county. 
 
 Coos CouxTY borders on the Pacific Ocean for about fifty 
 miles, lying east and south of Douglas County, but separated 
 from it by the Umpqua Mountains, a part of the Coast Range. 
 Coos Bay is an important harbor, from which regular lines of 
 steamers ply between Alarshfield and San Francisco, taking 
 coal from the extensive mines near by, other lines taking lum- 
 ber, agricultural and dairy products and fish. The Coos Bay, 
 Roseburg & Eastern Railroad, operated as a coal road, ex- 
 tends from Marshfield to Myrtle Point, the head of navigation, 
 on the Coquille River, which drains all the southern portion of 
 the county and reaches the ocean at Bandon. On this river 
 are located several mills and canneries, and there is a daily 
 Steamer service. Much gold in early times was taken out of 
 
OREGON 
 
 303 
 
 the black sands on and near the beach, and a portion of the 
 population still follow beach mining as a means of livelihood. 
 The county has a wealth of timber, being estimated by different 
 experts, taking into account perhaps different sizes, all the way 
 from twelve to twenty billion feet, consisting of about seventy- 
 five per cent fir, the balance white cedar, hemlock, spruce, etc. 
 These forests extend north of Coos Bay and along the branches 
 of the Coquille River. The white cedar found in Coos, Curry, 
 Douglas and a part of Josephine counties, on the west side of 
 
 CABB-'^GE ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 Copyright, by Benj. .\. Cifford, The Dalles, Ore. 
 
 the Coast Range, possesses the finest qualities of any timber 
 known to commerce. The percentage of clear lumber is very 
 high, the wood is very sound and has a highly aromatic odor, 
 and is greatly prized for its lasting qualities. This timber can- 
 not be eqtialled on the continent. The common name for this 
 
304 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tree is "Port Orford Cedar." A number of oil wells have also 
 been sunk in this county. 
 
 Coos Bay is pre-eminently the best harbor in Oregon south 
 of the Columbia River, and at this point the projectors of the 
 Great Central Railroad, a road intended to connect with eastern 
 lines at Salt Lake, have purchased an extensive tract of land, 
 covering a large portion of the shore line of the bay, and are 
 developing the country at a very fast rate. Surveys have been 
 made, other lands and locations obtained at various points, and 
 to all appearances Coos Bay is soon to become the terminal of 
 a transcontinental system. 
 
 Good agricultural lands are found along the creek and river 
 bottoms, and the uplands furnish good grazing lands. There 
 
 are some excellent orchards and many dairies in the county. In 
 mining the gold output for this and Curry County was $275,000. 
 
 Empire City is the county seat, situated on Coos Bay, its 
 population being 185. Marshfield is the principal town, where 
 are located coal bunkers, three saw mills, a tannery, furniture 
 factory, etc. The place has a population of 3,500. Other 
 places are Myrtle Point, Coquille City, Bandon and Bangor, the 
 latter being the new town established by the Great Central in- 
 terests. 
 
 Jackson, Josephine and Curry Counties constitute the 
 three southern counties and cover the valley of the Rogue 
 River. The first named embraces the upper valley of the Rogue 
 
OREGON 
 
 305 
 
 River and it tributaries ; the second, the middle valley and 
 tributaries, and the third, the lower valley and the ocean beach. 
 The arable lands in Jackson County comprise the valley, table 
 and rolling lands. AH the cereals do well and fruits have an 
 especial record. The climate here is much warmer than in the 
 counties to the north, and corn grows fairly well. Most of the 
 level land lies at and near the town of ]\Iedford, perhaps the 
 largest of any body in southern Oregon, this being at the con- 
 fluence of Bear Creek and Rogue River. Medford shipped 
 60,000 crates of peaches and 2,600 crates of raspberries in 
 1902. Jacksonville, the county seat, has a population of 653 ; 
 
 UNLOADING SALitO.V. 
 
 A'ledford, about 3,000, and x\shland, 2,634. A state normal 
 school is located at Ashland. The gold output for 1900 was 
 $400,000, mostly by h)'draulic plants. 
 
 In Josephine County the valleys are narrower, but fruits are 
 grown as well as in Jackson County, and it may be said that 
 both are the home of the peach. Tobacco is quite successfully 
 grown. Gold was first found in Oregon at Kirbysville and 
 gold mining is carried on extensively, the output for 1900 
 being $675,000. The county seat is Grants Pass, situated on 
 the Southern Pacific, which road traverses both Jackson and 
 Tosephine counties, also on the Rogue River, and has a popula- 
 20 
 
306 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 tion of 2,290. This is a stirring place, with good business 
 blocks and lumber and mining interests. The Rogue River, 
 which narrows to a gorge between this point and Medford, 
 widens again to the west, and with some tributary valleys makes 
 cjuite an agricultural area, which is devoted largely to horticul- 
 ture. The town of Grants Pass gets its name from the fact 
 that Grant, with his army, camped here in 1852, on his expedi- 
 tion from the Columbia River to San Francisco overland, by 
 way of the Willamette and Sacramento valleys. 
 
 Curry is the most southwestern county of the state, and 
 claims the distinction of being in Cape Blanco, the most westerly 
 point of the United States. The county is very mountainous, 
 the Rogue River Valley becoming quite narrow, but the river 
 afifords at its mouth a harbor for coasting schooners. Gold 
 Beach, the county seat, has a population of eighty-three, and 
 Port Orford 227, both being on the ocean. Washing the elusive 
 gold sands of the beach, some interior mining, and dairying oc- 
 cupy the population principally. A salmon cannery is located 
 on the Rogue River. The estimated timber here is eight billion 
 feet. The whole country is within the coal belt, and it is 
 thought great wealth will be derived from this source. 
 
 The southern part of the Cascades sends up a rugged solitary 
 shaft 6,000 feet above sea level, known as Pilot Rock. It stands 
 on the line between Oregon and California, and is seen for 150 
 miles. This is a very prominent feature of the country. Crater 
 Lake, in Klamath County, is reached from Medford. 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 British Columbia is the most westerly, the largest, and the 
 only Pacific maritime province of the Dominion of Canada. It 
 lies immediately north of the states of Washington, Idaho and 
 Montana, entirely west of the Rocky Mountains in its southern 
 part, and extends from the 49° to the 60° of north latitude. It 
 includes \'ancouver Island, Queen Charlotte Islands and many 
 smaller islands. It has a length of 100 miles, with an average 
 width of 450 miles, constituting an area of 383,300 square 
 miles, and it had a population in 1901 of 178,657. 
 
 The early history of the entire British Northwest Territory 
 adjoining the United States is interwoven with that of the 
 United States Pacific Northwest. That history begins with the 
 voyage of Captain Cook in 1778, when Nootka Sound, on Van- 
 
BRITISH COLUINIBIA 
 
 307 
 
 SIWASII ROCK, NEAR THE ENTRANCE TO VANCOU\'ER HARBOR, a. *.. 
 
308 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 couver Island, was discovered, which, with the expeditions sent 
 out by other nations, lias teen mentioned in the early history of 
 the Oregon Country. 
 
 In 179s the territory now included in the province of British 
 Columlaia became the acknowledged possession of the British 
 Crown. Sir Alexander JNIcKenzie crossed the continent and 
 reached the upper valley of the Fraser River and the Pacific 
 Ocean by way of the Peace and Salmon rivers in 1792, thirteen 
 years before Lewis and Clark arrived at the mouth of the Co- 
 lumbia. The Northwestern Fur Co. followed, and after 
 many mishaps established themselves and in 1821 formed a 
 union with the Hudson's Bay Co., and had much to do with 
 the civilization and advancement of the country. A treaty was 
 made with Russia in 1825 to determine the boundary between 
 the Russian Alaska coast sealing and fur trading, and the fur 
 trading of the interior. In 1846 the Ashburton treaty settled 
 the boundary between the United States and Canada. In 1871 
 British Columbia became a province of the Dominion of Can- 
 ada upon the stipulation that railway connection should be es- 
 tablished with the east. This was accomplished in May, 1887, 
 when the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway was opened 
 for traffic. Victoria was made the capital, it having long held 
 the commercial supremacy of the country west of the Rocky 
 Mountains. 
 
 The building of the Canadian Pacific Railway was one of 
 the greatest feats of railway construction on record. It was 
 built through an entirely uninhabited country, and the difficul- 
 ties of railway construction at the pass where the railroad 
 crossed the Rocky Mountains seemed almost insurmountable. 
 For 500 miles through these moimtains the Selkirks and the 
 gorge of the Fraser River through the Cascade Mountains 
 afford perhaps as grand and wild scenery as can be found upon 
 the American continent. 
 
 A road farther to the north has seemed more feasible and 
 will no doubt be built. It will reach the Pacific Ocean at Port 
 Simpson, 300 miles north of \'ancouver. The line of this road 
 from its eastern terminus, Quebec, passes north of Lake Winni- 
 peg through Athabasca and North Alberta, covering 2,380 miles 
 in its span of the continent from the Atlantic seaboard to the 
 Pacific. This road will no doubt eventually reach the Yukon 
 territory, from whidi connection can be made with the Siberian 
 railway at Cape Prince of Wales, on liering Strait, by wav of 
 Nome, thus bringing into reality the long-heralded route from 
 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 309 
 
 New York and other eastern cities to St. Petersburg and Paris 
 by rail. 
 
 The Province of British Columbia is governed by a lieuten- 
 ant-governor, appointed by the governor-general of the Do- 
 minion, and who is assisted 13_\' an executive council of six 
 members. The province has a legislature consisting of a sin- 
 gle chamber of thirty-four members, and it is represented in 
 the parliament at Ottawa by three senators and six members 
 of the house of commons. The schools are free and have no 
 church alliances. 
 
 The province is divided into local districts as follows : East 
 and West Kootenai, Yale, Lillooet, New Westminster, Cariboo 
 and Cassiar on the, mainland, and Comax, which includes the 
 northern half of \"ancouver Island and a portion of the main- 
 land opposite, Alberni, Nanaimo, Cowichan and Escjuimalt on 
 X'ancouver Island. 
 
 The distinctive features of British Columbia are its indented 
 sea coasts, its islands and its mountains. Almost one-half of 
 the province is cut ofT from access to the sea by a narrow strip 
 of United States territory known as the Panhandle of Alaska, 
 and which stretches from Mount St. Elias to the southernmost 
 point of Prince of Wales Island. Southern British Columbia is 
 divided into two great drainage basins, the eastern, or sources 
 of the Columbia River, and the western, or valley of the Eraser 
 River, which is the main river of the province. The Rocky 
 Mountains, which bound southern British Columbia on the 
 east, have a width of about sixty miles, and an average height 
 of about 8,000 feet, the highest peaks being Mount Brown 
 (16,000 feet), Mount Hooker (15,700 feet) and Mount Mur-' 
 chison (13,500 feet). To the west are three shorter ranges of 
 mountains, the first being the Purcell Range ; the Selkirk 
 Mountains constitute the second range, and the Gold Range the 
 western, which borders on the interior plateau and extends 
 farther north, expanding into the Cariboo Mountains. The 
 Selkirks are much the highest of these three mountain ranges. 
 Mount Sir Donald having an altitude of 10,645 feet. Mount 
 Macdonald 9,440 feet and IMount Tupper 9,030 feet. 
 
 In the numerous valleys enclosed by these mountains is de- 
 veloped a river system remarkable alike for its complexitv and 
 its grandeur. In the southern part of the valley, at the western 
 base of the Rocky Mountains, the Kootenai River flows to the 
 south, while the Columbia River flows to the north, a narrow 
 range of mountains only lying between them. The Columbia 
 
310 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 River sweeps around the northern end of the Selkirks and, turn- 
 ing southward, flows between the Selkirks and the Gold Range, 
 receiving the Kootenai, which has visited the United States and 
 returned, a short distance from the frontier, then passes into 
 the United States on its long journey to the ocean. The Fraser 
 River at first flows in a northwesterly course and then turns 
 southward, passing through the Cariboo Mountains, the Lillooet 
 and Yale districts, when, turning to the west, it reaches the sea 
 at the Strait of Georgia, near the United States boundar}' line. 
 The northern portion of British Columbia is a country of rough 
 plateaus and mountains, watered on the west by the Taku, Sti- 
 keen and Skeena Rivers, by the Liard tributaries on the north- 
 west and the streams that drain the northern valleys of the 
 Cariboo Mountains into the Peace River. The great interior 
 basin extends from the Rocky Mountains to the Cascades, 
 which run parallel to and contiguous along the coast, having 
 turned to the west and become really the Coast Range of 
 mountains. 
 
 That region of British Columbia along the mainland of the 
 coast enjoys a very mild climate, due to the influences of the 
 Japan current. The western slopes of the Cascade Mountains 
 receive the first precipitation of moisture from the prevailing 
 westerly winds, which give abundant rainfall, and in the more 
 northerl}' islands, especially the Queen Charlotte group and 
 the coast region, an excess. Between the Coast Range and 
 Gold Mountains are arid plains which require irrigation. On 
 the interior plateaus the winter temperature frequently falls 
 below zero, but the air being very dry makes the cold endurable, 
 even in the extreme north. The mean annual temperature at 
 \'ictoria is 47°, the range being from 22° to 80°, the annual 
 rainfall being forty-one inches. At Barkersville, in the Cari- 
 boo district, the mean temperature for January is 12° and for 
 July 49°, the rainfall for the summer months being seventeen 
 inches and the snowfall in winter 161 inches. The rainfall in 
 the interior increases with the distance to the north from the 
 boundary line. 
 
 British Columbia is one of the richest and most resourceful 
 provinces of the Dominion. It is a highly mineralized, moun- 
 tainous country, with intervening valleys of arable and pasture 
 lands, and magnificent forests. The mines are comparatively 
 undeveloped, yet their product amounts to nearly the production 
 of all Canada ; the fisheries about one-third the total yield of 
 the waters of the entire Dominion ; and the forests one-twen- 
 
BRITISH COLUAIBIA 
 
 311 
 
 itieth of the timber cut in all the provinces. For 1900 the value 
 of mineral productions was $16,344,751. The largest coal 
 workings are confined to X'ancouver Island, but at Crow's Nest 
 Pass, in the Rock}' Mountains, there has been prospected with 
 drills an area of excellent bituminous coal of 144 square miles, 
 the aggregate thickness of the veins being 132 feet. Second 
 to the mines are the fisheries, the value of the product for 1900 
 being $5,214,000. The canning of salmon and fur sealing being 
 the leading indvistries, canneries are located along the coast on 
 the Nass, Skeena, Fraser and smaller rivers. The central seat 
 of the canning industry is on the Fraser River, where in season 
 
 CAPITANO CAN-YON, 
 
 thousands of boats are employed in taking the fish, there being 
 more than fifty canneries located upon the river. The province 
 de^'otes adequate attention to the preservation of the fisheries 
 by artificial means. 
 
 The forests consist largely of the evergreen, Douglas fir and 
 cedar, though hemlock and cypress are found in considerable 
 quantity. The trees reach their densest and largest growth on 
 the islands and western slopes of the Cascade Mountains, where 
 they are said to average 20,000 feet to the acre. The estimate 
 of the timber bearing area is 285,000 square miles, and of the 
 
312 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWESI' 
 
 timber now standing one hundred billion feet. In 1900 the 
 lumber cut of the province was 276,236,470 feet, of which 25,- 
 000,000 feet went east of the Rocky Mountains by rail and the 
 remainder went to all parts of the world by ships. 
 
 British Columbia has a magnificent ocean frontage of fully 
 1,000 miles, has many fine harbors, the principal of which is 
 Burrard Inlet, the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway. 
 
 The Kootenai District extends north and south from the in- 
 ternational boundary line to the big bend of the Columbia 
 River. It is divided by the Purcell Range of the Selkirks into 
 East and West Kootenai. .Almost the entire district is drained 
 by the Columbia River. There are great regions of mineral 
 wealth here which in the early days yielded millions of dollars 
 in placer mining. Besides gold, silver and copper, on the west- 
 ern side of Crow's Nest Pass of the Rocky Mountains, there are 
 perhaps the largest undeveloped coal fields in North America. 
 They are known to cover 144 square miles, and 1,000 coke 
 ovens are now in operation. The building of the southern line 
 of the Canadian Pacific Railway has opened up this country 
 and afforded an outlet long needed. In Eastern Kootenai the 
 principal town is Cranbrook, on the line of the Crow's Nest 
 Pass Railway. It has a population of 2,000. It is located on 
 a prairie in the Kootenai Valley and is the principal lumbering 
 point of the district. The city is lighted by electricity, has 
 several large stores, banks, hotels, churches and schools. 
 
 In Western Kootenai marvellously rich deposits of ore have 
 been discovered. ^lany of the mining properties are fully 
 equipped with machinery, in Trail Creek, Nelson, Kaslo-slocan, 
 Ainsworth and other districts, smelters having been erected at 
 the towns of Nelson and Trail. There are good openings for 
 farmers in these valleys, and a wonderful field for the angler 
 and hunter. The largest towns of the district are Nelson, sit- 
 uated on the western arm of Kootenai Lake, with a population 
 of 6,000, and Rossland, eight miles from the boundary line, 
 with a population of 7,000. Both are phenomenal mining 
 towns. The Canadian Pacific main line crosses these districts 
 amid grand scenery in their northern part. 
 
 The Yale District lies to the west of the Kootenais, from 
 which it is separated by the Gold Range. It lies entirelv within 
 the dry belt, but within its limits are great stretches of mining, 
 grazing, agricultural and fruit lands, which afiford good open- 
 ings. The development of this country is made possible 
 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 313 
 
 through the construction of railwaj's in the southern and east- 
 era part by the Canadian Pacific in its southern hne and the 
 Great Northern in its route from Spol<ane,- Washington, to 
 Vancouver, along the international boundary line and the Sam- 
 ilkameen River. The Boundary district, the Kettle River and 
 Boundary Creek valleys, and the Okanogan, Nicola and 
 Thompson valleys, are good sections of about the 
 same character as the Colville Reservation in the 
 state of Washington, heretofore described. The Yale Dis- 
 trict belongs to the bunch grass country, where wheat, 
 fruit and vegetables are prolific. There are good farming open- 
 ings and good mines in the district, and besides there is a 
 
 ffii^i 
 
 ^^ m 
 
 » '•.r?-.v-?^j 
 
 'S^Z 
 
 Sir?^-^.«;S 
 
 
 
 
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 m\ 'J 
 
 
 K 
 
 mMm 
 
 fc,' .:-.■: ..::.;:■■;■■ ■^•-:.-;: 
 
 '9 
 
 -^^StUK^^BBX^^SS^ffvoffw^ff^Sf^ 
 
 iiiipipipafe- ' 
 
 MINING SCENE ON PINE CREEK, .ATLIN, 
 
 large mineral field to the north yet unexplored. In the Nicola 
 Valley there are good farms and a large coal area. Thompson 
 Valley traverses the northern part of the Yale District, where 
 there are extensive grazing and agricultural lands. Some irri- 
 gation is being carried on in this locality, and in the Okanogan 
 countrv large tracts are being brought under ditches. These 
 lands are well adapted to fruit and berry growing. A cigar 
 factory in the Okanogan district is claimed to be manufacturing 
 native grown tobacco. About 40,000 head of cattle are ranging 
 near Kamloops, and a greater number in the Samilkameen 
 Valley. 
 
314 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The Fraser River traverses the western side of the district 
 and the Canadian Pacific Railway follows the main water 
 course. Kamloops is a division headquarters of the railroad 
 and is the largest town in the district, having a population of 
 2,000. Ashcroft, on the Canadian Pacific Railway, 204 miles 
 east of Vancouver, is the starting point for the west Lillooet 
 district and Cariboo points. Grand Forks is the principal town 
 in the boundary country, on Kettle River near the boundary 
 line, and has a population of 1,500; a large smelter is in 
 operation here. There are several good towns in this and 
 other valleys. 
 
 The Lillooet District lies immediately west of the northern 
 part of the Yale District. The Fraser River crosses it from 
 north to south, as does the famous Cariboo road, the trail to 
 the mines. This district is as yet sparsely settled, the principal 
 settlements being in the vicinity of the Fraser River. There is 
 a large area of fine grazing land, which is also suitable for 
 farming, but irrigation is required. The valleys have a rich 
 soil, where fruit can be grown successfully. The climate is 
 fairly mild in the valleys, the cattle maintaining themselves the 
 entire winter on the ranges. 
 
 The Cariboo District lies between Cassiar District on the 
 west and Athabasca and Alberta on the east. It reaches from 
 the 52° to 60° latitude, bordering the Yukon territory. The 
 Rocky Mountains traverse it in about a northwesterly course, 
 which makes it very mountainous in its west and northern part. 
 The famed Cariboo mines, from which millions of gold have 
 been taken, are in this district, and extensive hydraulic mining 
 is being carried on. This is a great field for the prospector. 
 The south and western parts of this district are high, rolling 
 plateaus, mostly wooded. The climate is much like that of 
 Lillooet. The extreme northern part has the same character as 
 the Yukon territory. That part of the Cariboo District that is 
 drained by the Peace River is known as the Omineca District, 
 where rich gold placers were discovered. 
 
 The Cassiar District comprises the western portion of British 
 Columbia west of the Cariboo District, and extends from the 
 51° to the 60° north latitude. It adjoins the Alaska Panhan- 
 dle, circles Skagway and White Pass and adjoins the Yukon 
 territory on the north. As it lies mostly west of the Cascade 
 Mountains it is generally heavily timbered and difficult to travel 
 through. The Cascade Mountains traverse its entire length. 
 Rich mining districts have been discovered at Cassiar and at 
 
iiKiiibH CUJ-UiVlciA 
 
 315 
 
316 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Atlin Lake, near the Yukon line. The navigable Skeena River 
 rises in the Cassiar Mountains and in a generally southwest 
 course reaches the sea, a little below Port Simpson. This is 
 the largest river of the district, and affords the best means of 
 intercourse with the upper interior. Two placer mining towns 
 have lately sprung up in the district — Atlin and Pine City. 
 These are reached by steamers to Skagway, the White Pass & 
 Yukon Railway, and then steamers on Lake Bennett. 
 
 The New Westminster District lies along the boundary line 
 mainly between the Yale District and the Strait of Georgia. The 
 Cascade Mountains cross this district from northwest to south- 
 east and make it therefore very mountainous, with the excep- 
 •tion of the valley of the Fraser River and the deltas at its 
 mouth. This valley is quite wide and to the south frequently 
 overflows, necessitating diking 'in some parts. The rainfall in 
 this district is ample, the soil rich and the climate mild. The 
 country is fairly well settled, but farms can be had at reason- 
 able prices. The Canadian Pacific Railway follows the Fraser 
 River Valley, and the (ireat Northern connects Vancouver and 
 New Westminster with Puget Sotmd points. Much attention 
 is given to salmon canning and fishing in general. Timber is 
 abundant and lumber manufacturing is carried on extensively. 
 
 Vancouver, the largest city of the district and of British 
 Columbia and the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, 
 is situated on Burrard Inlet, a very fine tidewater harbor of 
 the Strait of Georgia. It is surrounded by a country of rare 
 beauty, and the mildness of the climate is all that could be 
 asked for. It is named for the explorer of that name, is located 
 150 miles from the open ocean, from which it is separated by 
 Vancouver Island, but it is nevertheless the home port of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway Company's line of steamers plying to 
 all parts of the Orient, the eastern terminus of the Canadian- 
 Australian Steamship line to Australia, and of the Canadian Pa- 
 cific Navigation Company's steamers to Alaska. The inner har- 
 bor has thirty square miles of ship anchorage and 3,000 feet of 
 docks and wharves have been built for steamship accommoda- 
 tion. This port is a call station of the Pacific Coast Steamship 
 Company's line running to Alaska and San Francisco. The city 
 is well built, many streets being paved with asphalt ; it has 
 good hotel accommodations and several parks, among which is 
 Stanley Park, one of the most beautiful parks on the Pacific 
 Coast. It has several important industries, such as iron works, 
 sugar refinery, canneries, and large sawmills. Electric cars 
 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 317 
 
 DRIVEWAY IN STANLEY PARK, \'ANCOUVER. B. C. 
 
318 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 run on all the principal streets and connection is made with 
 New Westminster, twelve miles distant. The buildings of this 
 city, which has a population of 30,000, would do credit to those 
 of one of much larger size. This is the natural headquarters of 
 tourists for this region, on account of the beautiful scenery 
 and the fishing and hunting attractions. 
 
 New Westminster is the oldest city of the entire province. 
 It was founded during the gold excitement of 1858, is situated 
 on the Fraser River sixteen miles above its mouth in the center 
 of a rich farming country, and is connected with the Canadian 
 Pacific by a branch from Westminster Junction, and, as before 
 stated, ,an electric line from X'ancouver. The city is built on a 
 side hill overlooking the river and is very imposing. Five 
 canneries are located within the limits, three large sawmills, an 
 oatmeal mill, condensed milk factory, sash and door factory, 
 machine shops, etc. The Provincial Penitentiary, Asylum for 
 the Insane and other public buildings are located here. The 
 Fraser River is navigable up to the Yale District. There are 
 several other important towns in this district, and the Harrison 
 Hot Springs, near the Canadian Pacific, have become a very 
 noted health resort. 
 
 V.vNCOux'ER Island and Comax. — Vancouver Island is sep- 
 arated from the mainland by the Strait of Georgia and from 
 the Cnited States mainly by the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The 
 island is 300 miles long, with an average breadth of about fifty 
 miles, and covers the local districts of Alberni, Nanaimo, Cowi- 
 chan and Esquimalt, the north half of the island being in the 
 Comax District, which includes a portion of the mainland op- 
 posite. The two ends of Vancouver Island are comparatively 
 flat, but the mountains of the interior range from 6,000 to 8,000 
 feet in height and are covered with fir and cedar timber. The 
 interior of the island is unsettled, the eastern portion only being 
 suitable for agriculture. The island, however, is rich in mineral 
 wealth — gold, copper and coal ; the coal mines at Nanaimo 
 mine annually 1,000,000 tons. 
 
 Esquimalt, a suburb of Victoria, is the principal harbor 
 and has long been the rendezvous of the Pacific British 
 squadron. It is connected with Victoria bv an electric car 
 line. The nucleus of the town is the government buildings, 
 dry docks, etc. 
 
 Victoria is the capital of British Columbia and the chief 
 city of Vancouver Island, having a population of 20,816. It 
 was first settled as a trading post and a fort of the Hudson's 
 
BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 319 
 
 Bay Co. It is beautifully situated at the extreme southern 
 end of Vancouver Island, opposite the Strait of Juan de 
 Fuca and the entrance to Puget Sound, and faces the mag- 
 nificent Olympic Mountains of Washington. The large parlia- 
 ment buildings, which catch the visitor's eye as he enters 
 the harbor, are very striking and cost more than one million 
 dollars. The city is quite wealthy, substantially built, and is 
 very English. The points of interest are the parliament 
 buildings, naval station. Beacon Hill Park — a tract of 300 
 acres — the Gorge, the golf links on Oak Bay, the Royal Jubi- 
 lee Hospital, and Mount Tolmie. This city has large busi- 
 ness and shipping interests and is one of the outfitting' points 
 for the Yukon territory. Its commercial interests extend all 
 
 LEGISLATIVE BUILDINGS. VICTORIA, 
 
 over the world, and one of the largest iron works on the 
 Pacific Coast is located here. It has many hotels and a large 
 floating population, since it is the first and last stopping place 
 of all vessels coming in and going to sea. 
 
 Nanaimo is situated on the east coast of the island and has 
 a population of 5,000. This is the center of the coal mining 
 interests, where a large number of men find employment in 
 the mines. It is connected with Mcto-ria by the Esquimalt & 
 Nanaimo Railway. 
 
 A great feature touching the relation of commerce to the 
 province of British Columbia is that its commercial seats are 
 nearest to all the important seaports of the world, east and 
 west. The shortest lines around the world are in the latitude 
 of southern British Columbia, and the shortest lines from Liv- 
 
320 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 erpool to Hongkong are via Quebec, Winnipeg, Vancouver 
 and Yokoliama. The commerce of this province, in conse- 
 quence, must be large. Its exports in 1902 reached over two 
 million dollars, it having a lumber fleet of eighty vessels, to 
 say nothing of the fleets carrying the general tonnage in 
 transit. 
 
 There are large areas of free lands in this province, 
 which can be obtained under the homestead laws by making 
 allegiance to the British Crown. The settlers upon these lands 
 have liberal exemptions from debt executions, and many other 
 advantages not offered in the United States. Land, however, 
 can be bought and held by an alien without becoming a British 
 subject. Remarkable changes are occurring in British Colum- 
 bia and western Canada from the constant invasion of Ameri- 
 can settlers, which neither political differences nor arbitrary 
 tariffs are able to resist. This must have the effect of draw- 
 ing these nations, whose interests are largely identical, still 
 more closely together. 
 
 WESTERN CANADA. 
 
 By Western Canada is meant the large agricultural country 
 lying between the Rocky Mountains and Ontario, and north 
 of Minnesota, North Dakota and Montana. It covers a dis- 
 tance of about 800 miles along the boundary and extends 
 northward in some places almost indefinitely. The political 
 divisions of this region are the Province of Manitoba and the 
 territorial districts of Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta and 
 Athabaska. 
 
 Manitoba has an area of 73,000 square miles. It has ample 
 rainfall and about the same characteristics as the Red River 
 \'alley in IMinnesota, of which its southern portion is a part. 
 This province has in crops this year 2,000,000 acres, and in 
 1 90 1 it raised more than 30,000,000 bushels of wheat. The 
 yield is generally large and there is good profit, not only in 
 this cereal, but also in cattle. Assiniboia has an area of about 
 99,000 square miles, about that of the state of Minnesota. 
 Saskatchewan, lying to the north of Assiniboia and Manitoba, 
 has an area of 106,000 square miles, about that of Michigan 
 and Ohio combined. Alberta, which lies between the Rocky 
 Mountains and these two last named districts, has an area of 
 106,000 square miles. Not including Athabaska, these other 
 districts have 308,000 square miles, of which it is estimated 
 
WESTERN CANADA 
 
 321 
 
 about seventy to sevent_v-five per cent is usable. This, of 
 course, depends upon the character of the country and the 
 rainfall. The general character of the land is a general vast 
 rolling prairie of a rich, black soil, with a clay subsoil, which 
 is particularly adapted to wheat. This subsoil, as in the 
 States, retains the winter moisture to aid the growing plant 
 to its maturity whether much rain falls or not during the 
 ripening process. The climate is cold in winter and hot in 
 summer ; the spring is short and the fall delightful. The gen- 
 eral average of rainfall is about seventeen inches ; in northern 
 .A.lberta, about fourteen inches, and at Regina about eight inches. 
 
 PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA 
 
 The western part of Assiniboia is perhaps the extreme west- 
 ern limit of the wheat raising section, without irrigation, along 
 the line of the Canadian Pacific. The arid region is covered 
 with bunch grass and makes good stock ranges. The coun- 
 try is well watered by streams draining mostly into Hudson 
 Bay. Throughovit the general region wheat is the main crop 
 and will no doubt long remain so, for the conditions are not 
 wholly conducive to diversified farming, besides which the 
 yield of wheat has been so large and it requires so little labor 
 to handle large tracts, that the farmer is inclined to plant 
 largely this one crop. Cattle raising in the more arid districts 
 
 21 
 
322 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
ALASKA 323 
 
 is very extensive. These lands, wliich could have been 
 bought in 1900 for $3 per acre, are now bringing from $6 to 
 $10 per acre in favored localities and are cheap at these prices. 
 Lands still range from $3.50 to $5 per acre in the Calgary and 
 North Alberta districts. 
 
 The country is very accessible by way of the Canadian Pa- 
 cific and its branches, the Canadian Northern, the "Soo Line" 
 and the Great Northern and Northern Pacific, the two latter 
 roads giving direct communication between the "Twin Cities" 
 and Winnipeg, where the Canadian lines may be taken for 
 destinations. The Trans-Canada Railway, now building from 
 Quebec, on the St. Lawrence, to Port Simpson, on the Pa- 
 cific, will pass through Saskatchewan and Alberta or Atha- 
 baska, which will bring within a short haul to its line an im- 
 mense area of land on a very direct line to the English market. 
 
 The general government of Canada is federal, and the 
 provinces and districts have local legislatures. Regina, pop- 
 ulation 2,645, is the chief tov^m of Assiniboia and the capital 
 of the Northwest Territories, also the headquarters of the 
 mounted police. 
 
 ALASKA. 
 
 The district of Alaska, the most northerly possession of the 
 LTnited States, lies between 51° and 71° north latitude and 
 130° and 175° west longitude. The main portion of Alaska, 
 however, lies between 60° and 71° 30' north latitude and 141° 
 and 168° west longitude. The estimate made by the govern- 
 ment officials gives Alaska an area of 590,884 scjuare miles, 
 which includes the Aleutian Islands and the narrow strip 
 south of Mount St. Elias, known as southeastern Alaska, or 
 the Panhandle. It has a remarkably long coast line on the 
 Pacific Ocean, Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean, estimated to 
 be over 18,000 miles, including the islands. The compact part 
 of Alaska is about 800 miles in length, east and west, and 1,100 
 miles north and south, while from Point Barrow, the extreme 
 northerly point in the Arctic Ocean, to Portland Canal, the 
 most southerly point, is 1,500 miles. The Alaska Peninsula 
 and the chain of Aleutian Islands extend 1,500 miles into 
 the Pacific Ocean. With the accjuisition of the Philippine 
 Islands and Alaska, the United States has acquired territory 
 not only in the frigid but in the torrid zone, the territory of 
 
324 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Alaska alone constituting one-fifth of the area of the United 
 States proper. 
 
 History. — In 1728 Vitus Bering, a Danish navigator in the 
 employ of Russia, discovered the strait now bearing his name, 
 and in June, 1741, sighted Mount St. Elias. Later some of 
 the Aleutian Islands were visited, where Bering died. A ves- 
 sel load of sealskins was taken to Kamschatka on the return 
 voyage. This induced other Russians to search for seals, and 
 in 1743-49 four voyages were made to the seal islands, and 
 
 PARADISE BAY AND MOUNT EMMA, ALASKA. 
 
 ttius the Russian fur trade and interest in Alaska was estab- 
 lished. In 1762 a trader by the name of Gottoff wintered on 
 Kadiak Island. At this island the first permanent settlement 
 was established by Shelikoff and the town named Three Saints. 
 From this point various trading ports were established, one 
 on Afognak Island and another at Cape St. Elias. 
 
 John Quadra, a Spaniard, visited the vicinitv of Sitka in 
 1775, and Captain Cook, an Englishman, in 1778 entered the 
 
ALASKA 325 
 
 inlet which bears his name. In 1790 Alexander Baranof was 
 given charge of the Russian settlements by Shelikoff, and in 
 1799 the Russian American Fur Company was chartered and 
 given twent}- years' control of the entire country. During 
 this year Baranof landed on the island now bearing his name 
 and established Sitka, building a fort which he called Arch- 
 angel, but in 1802 the natives killed most of the settlers and 
 destroyed the place. In 1806 the settlement at Yakutat was 
 also exterminated. In 1824 a treaty between the United 
 States and Russia fixed the southern boundary at 54° 40', 
 and the waters of the North Pacific Ocean were opened to 
 American ships. In the following year a treaty was made be- 
 tween Great Britain and Russia by which the boundary line 
 between the then Russian possessions and British possessions 
 was established as it remains to this date. 
 
 In 1867 the United States government, under the auspices 
 of William H. Seward, then secretary of state, purchased 
 Alaska from the Russian government, paying therefor, with 
 all the rights and emoluments thereunto belonging, $7,200,000. 
 Since that time the Russian treaty has been of much inter- 
 est, and the important part, or description of the boundary 
 line, is herewith quoted verbatim : 
 
 "Commencing from the soathernmost point of the island called 
 Prince of Wale.s island, which point lies in a parallel of 54 degrees 
 40 minutes north latitude, and between the 131st and 133d degrees of 
 west longitude (meridian of Greenwich), the said line shall ascend 
 to the north along the channel, called Portland channel, as far as the 
 point of the continent where it strikes the s5th degree of north latitude ; 
 from this last mentioned point the line of demarkation shall follow 
 the summit of the mountains parallel to the coast as far as the 
 point of intersection of the i4Ht degree of west longitude (of the same 
 meridian), and finally, from the said point of intersection, the said 
 meridian line of the 141st degree, in its prolongation, as far as the 
 frozen ocean. 
 
 "With reference to the line of demarkation, it is understood, first, 
 that the Island called Prince of Wales island shall belong wholly to 
 Russia. 
 
 "Second, that whenever the summit of the mountains, which extend 
 in a direction parallel to the coast from the 56th degree of north 
 latitude to the point of intersection to the 141st degree of west longi- 
 tude, shall prove to be at the distance of more than ten marine 
 leagues from the ocean, the limit between the British possessions 
 and the line of coast which is to belong to Russia, as above men- 
 tioned, shall be formed by a line parallel to the winding of the coast, 
 and which shall never exceed the distance of ten marine leagues there- 
 from." 
 
326 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 The mountain ranges near the coast did not prove to be 
 such as was expected when the treaty was made, hence by 
 common consent the United States and Canadian governments 
 adopted the ten-league limit, and until recent years no question 
 arose. The discovery of gold in the Klondike region gave 
 additional value to the coast strip, and Canada, desiring to 
 hold the head of Lynn Canal, the nearest seaport to the gold 
 regions, as an open port, insisted on interpreting the treaty 
 of 1824 so that the measurement of the thirty-mile strip would 
 begin along the outer edge of the fringe of islands. This 
 was opposed by the United States, and in 1899 a provisional 
 boundary line along the head of Lynn Canal was agreed upon, 
 both countries reserving their claims for later settlement. 
 
 LOOKING DOWN YUKON RIVER BELOW DAWSON. 
 
 As early as 1868 the Yukon River had been traversed by a 
 party who had built a raft near its head waters and floated 
 from this point to the sea, a distance of more than 2,000 
 miles. In later years adventurous prospectors for gold had, in 
 pairs or small parties, crossed the Chilkoot Pass by trail and 
 reached the Yukon, taking out some placer gold at Forty Mile 
 and a few other places, generally being satisfied with their 
 expenses and a sufficient grub stake for the coming season. 
 Sitka had been retained as a capital city by the United States, 
 the appointed governor making it his headquarters, and 
 Juneau had sprung up as a supply station, with the success of 
 
ALASKA 
 
 327 
 
 n . '' ' 
 
 ""^"s 
 
 
 
 
 1 JSHfe!^'^-' 
 
 
 1 ^:i 
 
 ;•■ ■ ' 
 
 
 
 \ JHI^^H^' '^' 
 
 
 
 Wi ' ■ 
 
 
 •.if 
 
 
 ^ :^^L^ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 .^^^^ 
 
 
 * 
 
 
328 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the now famous Treadwell mine, on Douglas Island. The 
 steamboats of the Alaska Commercial Co., the successor of 
 the Russian company, were plying the Yukon, suppl}'ing the 
 outposts for trading on the upper river with sealers and 
 whalers in Bering Sea ; codfishing was carried on along the 
 banks, and lastly salmon canneries were being established. 
 
 It was in August, 1896, that George Carmack and his Indian 
 partners took from the foot of the now famous Birch Tree, 
 on Bonanza Creek, the first pan of gold from the Klondike. 
 He staked a claim for himself and for each of his Indian 
 friends, and at once hastened to Forty Mile for provisions, 
 from whence the news was spread. The display of his 
 "poke" of gold dust told the tale, and the Klondike boom was 
 on. During this and the following months this creek and 
 Eldorado Creek were staked, and in the spring of 1897 the 
 richness of the district was known from Circle City to Sixty 
 Mile, and every man, woman and child who could make the 
 trip was soon journeying on the ice to the new diggings. The 
 arrival of the steamer Portland at the Seattle dock in 1897 
 with the first treasure seemed to set the world on fire, and 
 during that and the succeeding year the mad rush to Dyea 
 and Skagway took place. Men toiled over the treacherous 
 passes and many lives were sacrificed. An eye-witness says : 
 'T saw on that steep precipice which leads to the Chilkoot 
 Pass day after day a long line of men, pack laden, slowly 
 making their way to the top. So thickly crowded was the 
 trail that one near the bottom would stand for several min- 
 utes waiting for a place." That rush lasted all through the 
 winter of 1897-98. The old route led to Sheep Camp, then 
 tO' Lake Linderman, where timber was whipsawed for boats, 
 and then, when the ice broke, the boats were launched, dan- 
 gerous rapids were braved and after many days those of the 
 adventurers who were lucky enough to escape the dangers 
 arrived at the mouth of the Klondike, helping to swell the 
 city of Dawson, then in its infancy. Dawson, in 1897, had a 
 population of fully 5,000, and in 1898, with the surrounding 
 country, it had probably 40,000. The overflow spread out in 
 all directions, many of the people finally reaching Nome. 
 
 The building of the White Pass & Yukon Railwav from 
 Skagway to White Horse, via the White Pass, connecting 
 with steamers on the Yukon, now makes the trip very enjoy- 
 able, either winter or summer, the time from Seattle to Daw- 
 
ALASKA 
 
 329 
 
 son City being only seven days. Of late Dawson has become 
 very quiet, as the days of the placers are fast passing away. 
 The amount of gold taken from these remarkable placers to 
 June 20, 1903, is in value $80,000,000, but is each year grow- 
 ing less. Now the lower river on the American side is being 
 opened, discoveries are being made at various points, and a 
 good wagon road has been built 150 miles into the interior 
 from Valdez which will ultimately reach the Yukon. 
 
 The history of the discovery of gold on Seward Peninsular, 
 at Council City, Ophir and Anvil Creek, now known as the 
 
 NOME, ALASKA. 
 
 Nome district, is here given in the words of Captain D. B. 
 Libby, of San Francisco, the original discoverer : 
 
 "In 1866 I was in command of a construction party, sta- 
 tioned at Port Clarence, Alaska, engaged in building a tele- 
 graph line called the Western Union Russian Extension, 
 starting from New Westminster, B. C, and intended to reach 
 St. Petersburg, Russia, by Bering Strait. My division ex- 
 tended from Cape Prince of Wales to Norton Bay. Our sta- 
 tion consisted of four well constructed buildings, and the party 
 
330 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 of forty-one men. We landed in September, 1866, and built 
 fifteen miles of line to the head of Grantley Harbor that fall 
 and eight miles more in the spring of 1867, and put the same 
 in operation. We published monthly a paper we called 'The 
 Esquimaux' at the settlement we called Libbyville. Myself 
 and two men, in the fall of 1866, went with dog teams over 
 the proposed route to Norton Bay. When we reached the 
 Neukduk River not much snow had fallen and some of the 
 bars were bare, and I was convinced it was a gold country. I 
 tried some of the dirt a little farther down and got some 
 colors. I told the men with me that when we had completed 
 our construction the next summer we would ' prospect more 
 thoroughly. 
 
 "We had a hard winter, our provisions gave out, and after 
 that we lived on native food until July, when a company ves- 
 sel came in and we were informed the whole project had been 
 abandoned. The laying of the first Atlantic cable was the 
 cause. Returning to California, I thought not of Alaska until 
 the Klondike strike was confirmed. In August, 1897, I formed 
 a party of four men, outfitted for two years, and destined for 
 Golovin Bay, where we landed September 17. After building 
 winter quarters, in November we went up the Fish River, 
 camped at the mouth of what is now called Ophir Creek and 
 found fairly good prospects. One of the party and myself 
 went up again with reindeer teams and were gone thirty-seven 
 days, during which time we found gold in many places. In 
 March, 1898, we all went up and camped in a deserted Esqui- 
 maux hut, where Council City stands. We located claims on 
 Ophir and Melsing creeks and with some others, brought up 
 from the mission, formed Discovery and Eldorado districts 
 and named our camp Council City. 
 
 "In July, 1898, I sent Mr. Blake with a missionary up the 
 Nome coast to prospect, which he did on what is now known 
 as Anvil Creek, finding about forty colors to the pan, so the 
 missionary said, but no locations were made. There was a 
 misrepresentation of things, and the missionary and others 
 returned to Nome and located the whole of Anvil Creek." 
 
 Since then great developments have taken place on these 
 creeks, and the amounts taken out through placer mining alone 
 and up to 1892 with very ordinary methods have astonished 
 the world. 
 
 Along the coast of southeastern Alaska the land rises from 
 
ALASKA 
 
 331 
 
 
 ICE PEAKS ON MUIK GLACIER. 
 
332 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the water very abruptly to altitudes of thousands of feet. The 
 chain of islands is separated from the mainland by channels, 
 and deep, narrow fiords extend far into the mainland, where 
 they branch out into other and similar bays. From the com- 
 mencement of American territory, at Dixon entrance to Gla- 
 cier Bay there is presented to the traveler more natural won- 
 ders than any region of equal extent in the world. The 
 entire coast in its gorges shows unmistakable evidence of 
 glacial action ; in some places the ice has only recently re- 
 treated, while in other places the glaciers are still at work. 
 Lynn Canal, which is ninety miles long, is an excellent illus- 
 tration of these glacial fiords, and Glacier Bay, with Muir 
 Glacier, an illustration of the ice in action. This latter is one 
 of the most massive glaciers on the coast, being one mile in 
 width and from 250 to 300 feet in height. As it projects into 
 the ocean the warmer water melts the base, and the upper por- 
 tions, having lost their supports, fall off in the form of bergs, 
 containing thousands of tons of ice. Between Yakutat Bay 
 and Prince William Sound are many ice fields, one of the 
 largest in this region being the Malaspina Glacier, which occu- 
 pies the foot of Mount St. Elias. This glacier extends over 
 an area of 1,500 square miles, and is the only glacier of 
 N^orth America which comes in direct contact with the open 
 sea. Its remarkable feature is a forest, growing out of the 
 accumulated dirt and stones which cover the ice field. 
 
 North of Cross Sound and southeast of Mount St. Elias is 
 the important inlet of Yakutat Bay, a deep, funnel-shaped 
 fiord, that penetrates first far northeastward and then south- 
 eastward, being a narrow body of water, bordered by lofty 
 mountains. Between the Copper River and Kenai Peninsula 
 lies Prince William Sound, the entrance to which is obstructed 
 by mountainous islands that attain an elevation of 10.000 feet. 
 Extending into the land about forty miles, the sound has nu- 
 merous branches, at the heads of which are moving glaciers ; 
 the most northerly and easterly arm is known as Port Valdez, 
 and at the head of this is located the town of Valdez. This 
 place was first settled in 1898, and now has a population of 
 about 500. It is the southern terminus of the government mail 
 route to Eagle City, on the Yukon. Large deposits of copper 
 have been discovered near here, and a railroad to the Tanana 
 River is being considered. There is steamer connection with 
 Alaskan and Lmited States points. The Copper River is a 
 
ALASKA 
 
 333 
 
 large stream, remarkable for its delta, above which it is navi- 
 gable for about thirty miles. 
 
 On Kenai Peninsula coal fields have been discovered, and 
 west of this peninsula lies Cook's Inlet, the largest and long- 
 est estuary in Alaska. Into this inlet empties the Shushitna 
 River, through a large moorland delta, after having passed 
 through several gorges, one of which is 4,000 feet deep. The 
 scenic grandeur in this region is unsurjjassed in Alaska. 
 Lying west of the inlet is Lake Iliamna, eighty miles in length 
 
 BUSTER, A GENUINE ESQUIMAU.X DL G, 
 
 and twenty-four in width, which empties its waters into Bris- 
 tol Bay. it is joined with Lake Clark, another long and odd 
 shaped lake, the two together making a distance of about 200 
 miles. Back of these lakes, and to the north, a fine stretch of 
 agricultural country exists. Some good copper and gold 
 fields have been discovered lately, the copper being near tide- 
 water, and the gold at some distance in the interior. A good 
 harbor exists at Iliamna, which is free from ice both winter 
 and summer. 
 
 Kadiak Island lies at the mouth of this inlet, and the town 
 
334 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 of Kadiak on its eastern side. Here is the largest outfitting 
 place in southern Alaska. Ninety miles west, on the same 
 island, Karluk is situated, where two-thirds of the salmon 
 pack of Alaskan waters are put up. There is much agricul- 
 tural land in this vicinity, and cattle graze the year round. The 
 thermometer never records zero, and the snow lies upon the 
 ground but a very short time. Two trading stores are lo- 
 cated here. Unga is located on the island of the same name, 
 1,200 miles west of Juneau, and is the seat of several trading 
 posts. Farther west the Unimak Pass, between the peninsula 
 and Aleutian Islands, affords an entrance to Bering Sea. On 
 the island Unalaska are located the ports of Unalaska and 
 Dutch Harbor, 272 miles west of Unga. They are coaling 
 stations for the steamers en route to St. Michael and Nome, 
 and supply stations for whalers and sealers. These places 
 are far out in the Aleutian Islands, this island lying farther 
 west than Honolulu. The harbor is a magnificent one in 
 every way, and the hills about it are rich in gold and silver. 
 In the old Russian town is an old church, and the inhabitants, 
 apparently an amalgamation of the Japanese, Indians, whites 
 and Eskimos, speak the Russian language. On these islands 
 the grass grows very luxuriantly. This island was settled in 
 1738 and is now the headquarters of the Alaska Commercial 
 Co. and the North American Commercial Co., in Bering Sea, 
 which companies have posts at all important points in Alaska, 
 the latter holding the sealing privilege of the Pribilof Islands. 
 At this point the great ice floes from the north begin to be 
 seen. Some volcanic disturbances have taken place in Bering 
 Sea of late years, one island having sunk from sight and an- 
 other having been greatly enlarged. All of these islands are 
 almost always enveloped in fog. 
 
 Bering Sea is Cjuite shallow as compared with the Pacific 
 Ocean. It is closed to navigation from November to June, 
 inclusive. The first bay above the peninsula is Bristol Bay ; 
 Nushagok, on this bay, has a cannery and trading post. The 
 next to the north is Kuskoquim Bay, which receives the Kus- 
 koquim River, the second largest river in Alaska. This river 
 rises at the base of Mount McKinley, far in the interior, and 
 winds through the rugged Tordrillo Mountains, then passes 
 through a wide gravel plain, 100 miles in width, where it be- 
 comes very sluggish, then it enters the Kuskoquim Mountains, 
 a timbered range, then through a depressed country to its 
 
ALAai>^A 
 
 335 
 
 mouth. At one point it flows within twenty miles of the 
 Yukon River. It is navigable for 600 miles. At an early day 
 the Russians established several posts along this river. 
 
 Norton Sound is a large sound and is quite shallow ; into 
 its southern part empties the great Yukon River, the largest 
 river in Alaska, and, for that matter, one of the largest and 
 most important rivers of the Paciiic Coast. It is navigable 
 for large steamers for a distance of 2,000 miles from its mouth, 
 or to the Lewis and Pelly rivers, which form it, and these 
 rivers can be ascended by smaller steamboats for several hun- 
 dred miles farther. The deltas of this river are greater than 
 
 GREEK CHURCH, UNALASKA, ALASKA. 
 
 those of the Mississippi : it discharges more water and drains 
 an area of over one million square miles. 
 
 Near Fort Yukon the river is less than one mile in width, 
 but below that point it widens. Near Rampart it is confined 
 by the mountains to a narrow and deep channel, through 
 Vv'hich it rushes with great force, and below which it expands 
 again to a width of many miles. 
 
 Three lines of steamers ply the river from its mouth to 
 Dawson City, receiving their freight and passengers at St. 
 Michael, which is located 100 miles from the main Yukon and 
 120 miles from Nome. The town is located on the island of 
 St. Michaels, which is the headquarters of the United States 
 
336 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 army for Alaska, being the center of a large government 
 reservation, which includes the mouth of the Yukon. Two 
 hundred and ten miles southeast of St. Michael, on the Yukon 
 River, is situated Androfski, the winter quarters of one of 
 the steamer lines. At Nulato the Koyukuk River empties into 
 the Yukon. Here is an ancient Russian port, established in 
 1838, which was burned by the Indians, and re-established in 
 1842, and is now a prominent trading post. Koyukuk is situ- 
 ated at the mouth of the Koyukuk River; Bettles, the largest 
 town and trading port in that mining district, is 665 miles up 
 the Koyukuk River from the Yukon. This is a very rich camp. 
 Situated at the mouth of the Tanana River is the port 
 
 BURRO P.\CK TRAIN, DYEA POINT. 
 
 of Weare, or Fort Gibbons. The Tanana is 700 miles 
 long and has many tributaries. It drains the country lying 
 between the Copper River and the Yukon, and will no doubt 
 be the pathway of a good wagon road very soon, and some 
 day of a railroad to the southern Alaskan coast. Gold has 
 been found in the hills, but much of the country has never 
 been seen b}- a white man. Rampart City is 975 miles from 
 St. Michael and is the supply station for the Big Minook min- 
 ing district, twenty-eight miles away. Fort Yukon is situated 
 just within the Arctic circle. The large commercial companies 
 have erected buildings, where thev are often forced to land 
 
337 
 
 freight temporarily on account of low water on the Yukon 
 River. Circle City was once the most important town in 
 northern Alaska. It came near being depopulated at the time 
 of the Klondike rush, but now is rising again, owing to the 
 richness of the nearby Birch Creek district. Eagle City is 
 located 1,475 miles from St. Michael, contains two churches, 
 two sawmills, United States custom house and district court ; 
 the Fort Egbert military post is located here and is the ter- 
 minus of the government trail from Valdez to the Yukon. It 
 has telegraphic communication with Dawson. Forty Mile is 
 in Yukon territory, 1,542 miles from St. Michael. This town 
 is the headquarters for the Canadian mounted police. Fort 
 Cudahy is the headquarters of one of the large trading com- 
 
 RECREATION RANGE, ALASKA. 
 
 panics. This is the town which was supposed to be in United 
 States territory until 1896, when the 141st parallel was located. 
 It was built by Americans. 
 
 Kotzebue Sound is a very large bay north of Cape Prince of 
 Wales and is a part of the Arctic Ocean. At the head of Good 
 Hope Bay some very rich mining districts have been opened, 
 and tin has been found in paying quantities. 
 
 The country north of the Yukon River is characterized gen- 
 erally by bold, rocky hills and broad, marshy plains, a large 
 portion lying within the Arctic Circle and bearing near the 
 coast a lofty range of mountains, trending east and west. The 
 dominant features of the Aleutian division, or that south of 
 
 22 
 
338 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the Yukon, are precipitous mountains, deep valleys, dense 
 forests on the mainland and treeless islands along the coast. 
 Excepting the western coast and the valleys of the Yukon and 
 tributaries, comparatively little is known of the interior of the 
 country north of the Yukon. The mountain elevation does 
 not exceed 6,000 feet. 
 
 The Aleutian division is traversed by a broad mountain sys- 
 tem, a continuation of the coast range, with spurs extending 
 northward and covering large areas lying between the Yukon 
 River and the main range to the south. The main range con- 
 tinues through the peninsula and Aleutian Islands, which are 
 merely the summits of the submerged mountain system. The 
 islands contain many volcanoes, some extinct, others dormant 
 but smoking. Among the latter are Mounts Iliamna, Re- 
 doubt, Augustine and Pavlof. An island recently tormed is 
 Bogslof, while Grewingk Island was raised in 1884. The 
 highest peaks in Alaska are Mount Tilman, 13,300 feet; San- 
 ford, 13,500 feet; Drum, 13,700 feet; Blackburn, 16,140 
 feet; Wrangell, 17,500 feet; St. Elias, 18,024 feet; and 
 McKinley, 20,464 feet ; the latter being the loftiest peak in 
 North America. All of these are in the Aleutian division, 
 south of the Yukon, and generally near the coast. 
 
 The climate of Alaska varies greatly in the different por- 
 tions of the district. The temperatures along the coast of 
 the Pacific Ocean and Bering Sea are nearly ahke, but dififer 
 widely in the interior. At Sitka the mean annual tempera- 
 ture is 43", which does not dififer greatly from northern Illi- 
 nois. The extremes are from — 2° to 90° ; although it does 
 not become cool, neither does it become very warm. From 
 Portland Canal to the Aleutian Islands, though not cold, it is 
 generally damp, foggy and chilly. The amount of rainfall on 
 the western coast is about 105 inches, which occurs mostly 
 during the autumn and winter months. At Unalaska only 
 forty-five da}s of clear and partially clear weather are had in 
 a year, 271 being either rainy or snow}-. The Japan current 
 makes the climate comparatively mild. 
 
 The Bering Sea coast is entirely different in climate ; the 
 mean temperature at St. Michael for January is — 2° and for 
 August 54°, the extreme being from — 55° to 75° In the 
 interior of Alaska it is relatively warm in the summer and 
 cold in the winter. At Eagle, where the boundary line crosses 
 the Yukon, the mercury reaches — 60°, and there are from ten 
 
ALASJS_ft. 339 
 
 to twenty-five inches of rainfall, with more sunshine in a 
 month than on the coast in a year. 
 
 As far west as Cook's Inlet the coast is densely timbered 
 up to the timber line, about 3,000 feet, mostly with a rather 
 poor quality of spruce, but at the higher altitudes the hem- 
 lock takes its place. The spruce grows to a very large size 
 and extends as far north as the Koyukuk River, and westward 
 to the deltas of the Yukon. There are enormous areas of 
 pine and fir in the interior of good quality, enough to last the 
 United States for a period of fifty years after the Oregon 
 and Puget Sound timber belt is exhausted. There is little 
 or no timber on the islands. 
 
 METHOD OF TRAVELING IN THE YUKON TERRITORY DURING THE WINTER. 
 
 The cereals and hardier vegetables have been cultivated 
 successfully for years at several missions. Berries grow lux- 
 uriantly, and flowering plants are found in the favored parts. 
 Alaska cannot be considered strictly an agricultural country, 
 as the climatic conditions are not the most favorable, but there 
 are large tracts of land around Cook's Inlet and along the 
 islands and coast of southeastern Alaska which can be culti- 
 vated to advantage. There are vast areas of prairie where 
 cattle can graze and where the grass grows as high as a man's 
 shoulders. Alaska's resource is essentially mining, and that 
 
340 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 placer mining for gold. The estimated product of that metal 
 for 1900 was $8,171,000; silver, $94,772,000 (coinage value) ; 
 and for 1902, $10,000,000, all metals. 
 
 The coal formations of Alaska are extensive. Lignite pre- 
 dominates, but bituminous and semi-anthracite are found to 
 some extent. The Yukon coal is of inferior quality. The 
 Cape Lisburne field, 200 miles north of Nome, supplies that 
 territory. Coal, as hereinbefore stated, has been found on 
 Kenai Peninsula, where considerable expenditure has been 
 made in exploration work. Other metals found are silver, 
 quicksilver, platinum and copper. The copper deposits on 
 Cook's Inlet and at Valdez appear to be extraordinary. Petro- 
 leum oil has been found not far from the shores of Cook's 
 Inlet near Cape Douglas. 
 
 The fisheries rank second among the industrial enterprises. 
 About all the streams southward from Bering Strait to 
 Dixon's Entrance and the bay inlets, swarm with food fishes, 
 chiefly cod, salmon, herring and halibut. The fishing banks 
 cover 50,000 square miles and are much safer than the banks 
 of Newfoundland. The estimated capital invested in the pack- 
 ing of salmon is $12,000,000. The salmon are virtually 
 slaughtered, there being no closed season and no regulations. 
 Kadiak Island is the center of the canning industry. The 
 seal fisheries were once very profitable for the government 
 and those engaged in that industry, but owing to vandalism, 
 pelagiac sealing and the killing of females, the herd became 
 very nearly extinct. The matter was settled by arbitration 
 at Paris, and now both the United States and Great Britain 
 have naval patrols, which are only partially effective. The 
 seal product for 1902 on the islands was 22,304 fur seals, at 
 contract price of $9.62|- per skin. 
 
 Between Kotzebue and Norton Sound lies what is known 
 as Seward's Peninsula, a sort of rough, arrowhead point, 
 making out to Bering Strait, the extreme point being known 
 as Cape Prince of Wales. This point is only forty-two miles 
 from Asiatic territory, and lying between is the island of Dio- 
 medes. This is the nearest approach of the continents on the 
 globe, and it is advocated that at no distant date a continuous 
 line of railway will join New York with the main cities of 
 Europe by this route. In fact, this matter has been taken up 
 seriously. The Siberian government has made three sur- 
 veys to points along the strait, which indicates a desire to 
 
ALASKA 341 
 
 meet a road of this character with its trans-Siberian line. 
 Mount Bendeleben, located in the central portion of Seward 
 Peninsula, is the loftiest peak in this territor}'. A marked 
 line of mountains extend from near the Yukon most of the 
 way to Cape Prince of Wales, with interrupting broken plains. 
 In the western portion these take the name of Saw Tooth 
 Mountains, from their sharply serrated outline. A high range 
 of rocky hills ends in a bold promontory at Cape Nome, from 
 which the district takes its name. This territory is now pro- 
 ducing more gold than any other of like size in the United 
 States. Following the discoveries heretofore mentioned, the 
 beach diggings were found to be good and extended contin- 
 uously for thirty miles. Anvil, Glacier, Dexter, Osbourne and 
 
 ON THE BEACH AT NOME. 
 
 Other creeks were located, then Anvil City, and later Nome 
 City, were established. This was the scene of a great 
 stampede during 1898-99. There being no harbor, "surfing," 
 or the unloading of vessels by lighters, was necessary. There 
 were no houses or warehouses upon the naked beach, and the 
 scene is said to have been bewildering in the mass of goods, 
 machinery and every article pertaining to mining dumped in 
 piles and unprotected from the sea waves. Many people lost 
 their lives, and it was a scene of confusion until the city of 
 tents became regulated and a large portion of the too numer- 
 ous population sought the interior. It has now become the 
 metropolis of the northern coast of Alaska. The fact has 
 become established that the gold fields are extensive, fabu- 
 
342 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 lously rich and seemingly inexhaustible. This has built up a 
 city of fine buildings, with a good water system, the water 
 being brought from mountain streams five miles away. It 
 has electric lights and telephone service, and a narrow-gauge 
 railway seven miles in length, known as "The Wild Goose," 
 connects it with Anvil Creek. It has general stores, hotels, 
 restaurants, saloons, three banks, three churches, three news- 
 papers and schools. 
 
 The placer fields, at first supposed to be confined to a small 
 area about Nome, are now widely spread, gold having been 
 found from the Klondike region of the upper Yukon to the 
 Arctic Ocean, including the Porcupine River and its tribu- 
 
 CRADLING ON THE BEACH AT NOME. 
 
 taries, and westerly to Seward Peninsula, including the Koy- 
 ukuk region. On Kotzebue Sound are the Keewalik and 
 Candle Creek regions, and there are other producing creeks 
 on that sound. Gold has been found at many places west- 
 ward along the peninsula, and on Norton Sound to the Fish 
 River. Here the Omylik Galina silver mines have been open 
 for a number of years and only require transportation to be- 
 come producers. The Council district to the west is a rich 
 region, Ophir and other creeks having produced one-third of 
 the whole Nome output for 1902. On the Neukluk, which 
 joins the Fish River, many placers are found through its en- 
 
ALASKA 
 
 343 
 
 tire length and most of its tributaries. The 
 whole region from Council City to Nome is 
 more or less developed, the Ruby Creek, 
 a tributary of the Casa De Paga, being 
 very rich ground. Rich ground has also 
 been found near Port Clarence. Millions 
 have been taken out of Anvil and associate 
 creeks, and large portions of the creek beds 
 and the benches have not been worked. 
 In fact, the latter seem to afford deep min- 
 ing and are often richer than the creek 
 beds. An important district is th? Solomon 
 River ; its formation indicates that the di- 
 vide between the Casa De Pagn and the 
 Solomon is the source of the same gold, 
 and it is now believed to be a part of the 
 same ancient channel as that above Nome. 
 The normal annual production of Alaska 
 placers has been from $6,000,000 to $7,000,- 
 000 since 1897, including the first year's 
 large shore production. The output for 
 1902 v>'as approximately $9,000,000. All 
 the gold until 1892 was taken out without 
 hydraulic means. To-day large operations 
 are going en at Ophir Creek by the I^ane 
 Syndicate, ako on Snake River, these mines 
 having produced a very large portion of 
 the later gold. Of the Alaska product the Nome and neigh- 
 boring districts produced more than one-half, the remainder' 
 coming from the Yukon and other regions. The ancient river 
 beds, the cave specimens, the imbedded skeletons of mam- 
 moths and saurians, all go to show that Alaska was once in a 
 tropical climate. 
 
 About thirty miles from Nome is located Port Safety, or 
 Solomon. It is on a high sandbar at the mouth of Port Safety 
 lagoon, which is about twenty-five miles long. It is shallow, 
 but schooners and steamers of light draft often seek shelter 
 here. The Solomon River empties into this lagoon. The Sol- 
 omon and tributaries have been good gold payers, and lately 
 rich quartz leads have been discovered and a mill has been 
 erected. Council City is situated on a high bluff overlook- 
 
344 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ing the Fish River. There are many prosperous mercantile 
 estabhshments here and some very good buildings. Light 
 draft steamers reach it by the Fish River and a railroad con- 
 nects it with Ophir Creek. There is a probability of its soon 
 having rail connection with Nome. 
 
 There are few good harbors on Bering Sea, Port Clarence 
 affording the best. On this is located Teller City, which 
 came into prominence in 1900. The town is about seventy 
 miles from Nome, is the principal supply station for the Blue 
 Stone country and has a number of general stores, hotels, etc. 
 Near here is the reindeer station established by the govern- 
 ment in 1898. There are now between 6,000 to 7,000 head 
 
 JUNEAU, ALASKA. 
 
 of these domesticated animals herded about Port Clarence 
 Bay. The original stock was imported from Siberia. 
 
 Point Barrow, the extreme northern point of Alaska, is 
 merely a United States signal station, to aid the whalers cruis- 
 ing in the Arctic Ocean. 
 
 The Sitka division, in the southeast, is the best known sec- 
 tion of the Alaska district. On the mainland are rocky moun- 
 tains, paralleling the coast, but broken at times. These ex- 
 tend as far as Mount St. Elias. The islands which form the 
 Alexander Archipelago extend westward for a distance of 
 100 miles. These islands afford a very beautiful and sheltered 
 route for the steamers plying between Skagway and southern 
 
ALASKA 
 
 345 
 
346 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 ports. Some of the islands are large and have a climate and 
 soil which give good agricultural results. Along this route 
 is an ever changing but never ending scene of grandeur, com- 
 prising green mountains, with snow-capped tops, beautiful 
 fiords and romantic Indian villages. 
 
 Wrangel is located on Wrangel Island, 730 miles north 
 of Seattle. This is one of the largest fur trading posts in 
 southeastern Alaska, handling in one season 400 bearskins, 300 
 beaver, 200 land otter, 500 marten and 5,000 mink, besides 
 other skins. The chief industry is the canning and salting of 
 fish, there being eleven salmon canneries in the district. This 
 town is the center for several tribes of Indians, who repre- 
 sent their different families by totem poles, or carved ani- 
 mals, birds and fishes erected upon poles in the town and at 
 their burial places, which are of much interest to the traveling 
 public. There is considerable life in this town, which has two 
 
 VIEW OF SKAGWAY FROM STEAMER CITY OF KINGSTON. 
 
 sawmills in addition to other industries. Wrangel is on the 
 line of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company's summer Alaska 
 excursions. 
 
 Sitka is situated on Baronof Island, 178 miles southwest of 
 Juneau, and is the capital of Alaska. There is an old Greek 
 church located here, three other churches, two sawmills, va- 
 rious other industries, one newspaper, and it is the seat of 
 the governor of the District of Alaska. The population is 
 about 1,500, and the town is reached by the different steam- 
 ship lines. 
 
 Juneau is situated on Gastineau Channel, opposite Douglas 
 Island, 900 miles from Seattle. It is very picturesquely seated 
 at the foot of a high and precipitous mountain. It has elec- 
 tric lights, water works, two banks and various indus- 
 tries. It was formerly the supply station for all the upper 
 country. The famous Treadwell mine is located on Douglas 
 
ALASKA 
 
 347 
 
 STEAMER PASSING THROUGH FIVE FINGER RAPIDS. 
 
 SKAGWAY, ALASKA. 
 
348 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Island, and is perhaps, with one exception, the greatest gold 
 mine in the United States. 
 
 Skagway is located at the head of Lynn Canal, 1,000 miles 
 north of Seattle. It is the southern terminus of the White 
 Pass & Yukon Railway, which runs daily trains to White 
 Horse and intermediate points, connecting with Yukon River 
 steamers in the summer and stages in the winter for Dawson 
 City. Skagway has good schools, five churches, two banks, 
 eight large hotels, wholesale houses, four newspapers, tele- 
 phone service, etc. 
 
 Glacier Bay lies between Lynn Canal and the ocean and is 
 the site of the great Muir Glacier, the most frequently visited 
 of any of the Alaskan glaciers, since the excursion steamers 
 make this point a part of their route, proceeding far into the 
 bay among the ice floes, which makes the trip very inter- 
 esting. 
 
 Game, along the south shores and far into the interior, such 
 as the moose, deer, bear and all the smaller fur-bearing ani- 
 mals, abounds, but north of the Yukon River game is very 
 scarce. Waterfowl is abundant everywhere during the sum- 
 mer or nesting season, and the pheasant and ptarmigan are 
 found in the extreme north and west at all times of the year. 
 
NORTH DAKOTA 349 
 
 RED RIVER VALLEY OF THE NORTH. 
 
 One of nature's most generous gifts to man is that part of 
 our country known as the Red River Valley of the North, and 
 nowhere in this broad, fertile, agricultural area can any lands 
 be found that will grow and mature crops indigenous to this 
 latitude equal to the country between the Great Northern 
 Railway and the Red River in Pembina County, North Dakota. 
 The lands are gently rolling, with a natural drainage to the 
 , east, which, with little or no assistance, carries all surface water 
 away, leaving a beautiful prairie which, when under cultiva- 
 tion, produces the No. i hard wheat known the world over 
 for its superior qualities as breadstuff, and will make from 
 fifteen to twenty-five more loaves per barrel than bread made 
 from other flour, and sells in the markets of the world for 
 from 40 to 60 cents per barrel more money than flour made 
 from any other grain. The Northern Pacific Railway trav- 
 erses these lands in eastern Pembina County, and the towns 
 along its lines are without exception thrifty and prosperous. 
 The town making greatest improvement and destined to be 
 the greatest commercial point in that part of the country is 
 the beautifully located little city of Joliette. This town has 
 been pushed rapidly to the front by that energetic, reliable 
 concern, having large monied and land interests at this 
 point, with general office at St. Paul, Minn. We refer to 
 Warner & Andrus, whose operations in the Red River Valley 
 have brought to the attention of the people of the East and 
 South the great opportunity of this section during the past 
 five years, and have caused hundreds of good farmers to 
 invest, settle upon, and open up this part of our country, 
 which, in a very few years, will be worth many times the 
 prices of to-day. 
 
350 RED RIVER VALLEY 
 
 FARM LANDS IN THE RED RIVER VALLEY. 
 
 There never was a more advantageous opportunity for 
 purchasing farm lands than at the present time, and espe- 
 cially is this true of that country lying in the Red River 
 Valley of the North and the adjacent counties in North 
 Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. 
 
 The Valley is from thirty to seventy miles wide and more 
 than 300 miles long. The soil is very fertile, consisting of a 
 rich, black loam, from a foot and a half to three feet deep, and 
 is free from stones. Water is obtained in abundance at from 
 ten to forty feet. The lands in the Valley will grow crops 
 equal to those of any other part of the Northwest. A No. i 
 hard wheat is produced here, which has a world-wide repu- 
 tation as a bread-maker, and has given to this locality the 
 significant title of " the bread basket of the world." All the 
 towns in these counties are progressive and the surrounding 
 farmers prosperous. 
 
 For a number of years wheat has been the principal crop 
 of the Valley, but this has lately been supplemented with 
 diversified farming, stock-raising and dairying, all of which 
 have been successfully practiced, and the cultivation of corn 
 is steadily increasing. Potatoes, oats, barley, flax, and onions 
 also thrive, and the sheep-raising industry is acquiring a 
 strong hold. Farming is easy in the Red River Valley on 
 account of the level nature of the ground, and for the small 
 farmer this is an ideal region. The climate is very healthy. 
 
 Choice farm lands in the Valley and adjacent counties 
 may be obtained at low prices from the well-known firm of 
 the Burchard-Hulburt Investment Co., 705 Manhattan Build- 
 ing, St. Paul, Minn. They own the lands under their con- 
 trol, so that agents' commissions may thus be saved by 
 purchasing direct from the owners. The lands for sale by 
 this firm are located in Marshall, Kittson, and Aitkin coun- 
 ties, Minnesota; Grand Forks, Walsh, La Moure, Logan, and 
 Mercer counties. North Dakota; Washburn County, Wiscon- 
 sin; in Southern Minnesota; and in Manitoba, near Winnipeg. 
 Maps and special information in regard to these lands will 
 be cheerfully furnished upon application. 
 
ADDENDA. 
 
 The National Irrigation Law. 
 
 Appended is the full text of the national irrigation law, approved by 
 President Roosevelt, June 17, 1902. We publish the law, owing to 
 its great importance and the widespread interest manifested in it. 
 An Act Appropriating the receipts from the sale and disposal of pub- 
 lic lands in certain States and Territories to the construction of 
 irrigation works for the reclamation of arid lands. 
 
 AMPLE MEANS ARE PROVIDED 
 
 Be it enacted by the Senate and the House of Representatives of 
 the United States of America in Congress assembled : 
 
 That all moneys received from the sale and disposal of public lands 
 in Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, Nebraska, 
 Nevada, New Mexico, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon, South 
 Dakota, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming, beginning with the fiscal 
 year ending June thirtieth, nineteen hundred and one, including the 
 surplus of fees and commissions in excess of allowances to registers 
 and receivers, and excepting the five per centum of the proceeds of 
 the sales of public lands in the above States set aside by law for educa- 
 tional and other purposes, shall be, and the same are hereby, reserved, 
 set aside, and appropriated as a special fund in the Treasury to be 
 known as the "reclamation fund," ro be used in the examination and 
 survey for and the construction and maintenance of irrigation works 
 for the storage, diversion, and development of waters for the reclama- 
 tion of arid and semi-arid lands in the said States and Territories, and 
 for the payment of all other expenditures provided for in this Act : 
 
 Provided. That in case the receipts from the sale and disposal of 
 public lands other than those realized from the sale and disposal of 
 lands referred to in this section are insufficient to meet the require- 
 ments for the support of agricultural colleges in the several States and 
 Territories, under the Act of August thirtieth, eighteen hundred and 
 ninety, entitled "An Act to apply a portion of the proceeds of the 
 public lands to the more complete endowment and support of the 
 colleges for the benefit of agriculture and the mechanic arts, established 
 under the provisions of an Act of Congress approved July second, 
 eighteen hundred and sixty-two,'' the deficiency, if any, in the sum 
 necessary for the support of the said colleges shall be provided for 
 from any moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated. 
 
 EXTENSIVE SURVEYS SHALL BE MADE 
 
 Section 2. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized 
 and directed to make examinations and surveys for, and to locate and 
 
 351 
 
352 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 construct, as herein provided, irrigation works for the storage, diver- 
 sion, and development of waters, including artesian wells, and to report 
 to Congress at the beginning of each regular session as to the results 
 of such examinations and surveys, giving estimates of cost of all 
 contemplated works, the quantity and location of the lands which can 
 be irrigated therefrom, and all facts relative to the practicability of 
 each irrigation project; also the cost of works in process of construct- 
 ion as well as of those which have been completed. 
 
 LANDS MAY BE RESERVED FOR IRRIGATION WORKS 
 
 Section 3. That the Secretary of the Interior shall, before giving 
 the public notice provided for in section four of this Act, withdraw 
 from public entry the lands required for any irrigation works con- 
 templated under the provisions of this Act, and shall restore to public 
 entry any of the lands so withdrawn when, in his judgment, such 
 lands are not required for the purposes of this Act ; and the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior is hereby authorized, at or immediately prior to 
 the time of beginning the surveys for any contemplated irrigation 
 works, to withdraw from entry, except under the homestead laws, 
 any public lands believed to be susceptible of irrigation from said 
 works : 
 
 Provided, That all lands entered and entries made under the 
 homestead laws within areas so withdrawn during such withdrawal 
 shall be subject to all the provisions, limitations, charges, terms, and 
 conditions of this Act ; that said surveys shall be prosecuted diligently 
 to completion, and upon the completion thereof, and of the necessary 
 maps, plans, and estimates of cost, the Secretary of the Interior shall 
 determine whether or not said project is practicable and advisable, 
 and if determined to be impracticable or unadvisable he shall there- 
 upon restore said lands to entry ; that public lands which it is pro- 
 posed to irrigate by means of any contemplated works shall be sub- 
 ject to entry only under the provisions of the homestead laws in tracts 
 of not less than forty nor more than one hundred and sixty acres, 
 and shall be subject to the limitations, charges, terms, and conditions 
 herein provided : 
 
 Provided, That the commutation provisions of the homestead laws 
 shall not apply to entries made under this Act. 
 
 IRRIGATION CONTRACTS ARE AUTHORIZED 
 
 Section 4. That upon the determination by the Secretary of the 
 Interior that any irrigation project is practicable, he may cause to be 
 let contracts for the construction of the same in such portions or 
 sections as it may be practicable to construct and cotnplete as parts 
 of the whole project, providing the necessary funds for such portions 
 or sections are available in the reclamation fund, and thereupon he 
 shall give public notice of the lands irrigable under such project, and 
 limit of area per entry, which limit shall represent the acreage which, 
 in the opinion of the Secretary, may be reasonably required for the 
 support of a family upon the lands in question; also of the charges 
 which shall be made per acre upon the said entries, and upon lands 
 in private ownership which may be irrigated by the waters of the 
 said irrigation project, and the number of annual installments, not 
 exceeding ten, in which such charges shall be paid and the time when 
 
NATIONAL IRRIGATION LAW 353 
 
 such payments shall commence. The said charges shall be determined 
 with a view of returning to the reclamation fund the estimated cost 
 of construction of the project, and shall be apportioned equitably: 
 
 Provided, That in all construction work eight hours shall con- 
 stitute a day's work, and no Mongolian labor shall be employed 
 thereon. 
 
 TERMS UPON WHICH LANDS WILL BE SOLD 
 Section 5. That the entryman upon lands to be irrigated by such 
 works shall, in addition to compliance with the homestead laws^ re- 
 claim at least one-half of the total irrigable area of his entry for 
 agricultural purposes, and before receiving patent for the lands 
 covered by his entry shall pay to the Government the charges appor- 
 tioned against such tract, as provided in section four. No right to 
 the use of water for land in private ownership shall be sold for a 
 tract exceeding one hundred and sixty acres to any one landowner, 
 and no such sale shall be made to any landowner unless he be an 
 actual bona fide resident on such land, or occupant thereof residing 
 in the neighborhood of said land, and no such right shall permanently 
 attach until all payments therefor are made. The annual installments 
 shall be paid to the receiver of the local land office of the district in 
 which the land is situated, and a failure to make any two payments 
 when due shall render the entry subject to cancellation, with the for- 
 feiture of all rights under this Act, as well as of any moneys already 
 paid thereon. „ All moneys received from the above sources shall be 
 paid into the reclamation fund. Registers and receivers shall be 
 allowed the usual commissions on all moneys paid for lands entered 
 under this Act. 
 
 RESERVOIRS AND IRRIGATION WORKS 
 
 Section 6. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized 
 and directed to use the reclamation fund for the operation and mam- 
 tenance of all reservoirs and irrigation works constructed under the 
 provisions of this Act : 
 
 Provided, That when the payments required by this Act are made 
 for the major portion of the lands irrigated from the waters of any 
 of the works herein provided for, then the management and operation 
 of such irrigation works shall pass to the owners of the lands 
 irrigated thereby, to be maintained at their expense under such form 
 of organization and under such rules and regulations as may be 
 acceptable to the Secretary of the Interior : 
 
 Provided, That the title to and the management and operation of 
 the reservoirs and the works necessary for their protection and opera- 
 tion shall remain in the Government until otherwise provided by 
 Congress. 
 
 NEEDFUL PROPERTY MAY BE ACgUIRED 
 
 Section 7- That where in carrying out the provisions of this Act 
 it becomes necessary to acquire any rights or property, the Secretary 
 of the Interior is hereby authorized to acquire the same for the 
 United States by purchase or by condemnation under judicial process, 
 and to pay from the reclamation fund the sums which may be needed 
 for that purpose, and it shall be the duty of the Attorney-General 
 of the United States upon every application of the Secretary of the 
 Interior, under this Act, to cause proceedings to be commenced for 
 
 23 
 
354 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 condemnation within thirty days from the receipt of the application 
 at the Department of Justice. 
 
 STATE INTERESTS SHALL BE RESPECTED 
 
 Section 8. That nothing in this Act shall be construed as affecting 
 or intending to affect or to in any way interfere with the laws of 
 any State or Territory relating to the control, appropriation, use, or 
 distribution of water used in irrigation, or any vested right acquired 
 thereunder, and the Secretary of the Interior, in carrying out the 
 provisions of this Act, shall proceed in conformity with such laws, 
 and" nothing herein shall in any way affect any right of any State 
 or of the Federal Government or of any landowner, appropriator, 
 or user of water in, to, or from any interstate stream or the waters 
 thereof : 
 
 Provided, That the right to the use of the water acquired under 
 the provisions of this Act shall be appurtenant to the land irrigated, 
 and beneficial use shall be the basis, the measure, and the limit of the 
 right. 
 
 ALL REGIONS SHALL BE TREATED FAIRLY 
 
 Section g. That it is hereby declared to be the duty of the Secre- 
 tary of the Interior in carrying out the provisions of this Act, so far 
 as the same may be practicable and subject to the existence of feasi- 
 ble irrigation projects to expend the major portion of the funds aris- 
 ing from the sale of public lands within each State and Territory 
 hereinbefore named for the benefit of arid and semi-ar^d lands within 
 the limits of such State or Territory : 
 
 Provided, That the Secretary may temporarily use such portion 
 of said funds for the benefit of arid or semi-arid lands in any par- 
 ticular State or Territory hereinbefore named as he may deem advis- 
 able, but when so used the excess shall be restored to the fund as soon 
 as practicable, to the end that ultimately, and in any event, within 
 each ten-year period after the passage of this Act, the expenditures 
 for the benefit of the said States and Territories shall be equalized 
 according to the proportions and subject to the conditions as to prac- 
 ticability and feasibility aforesaid. 
 
 How Lands May Be Had in the Great Northwest. 
 
 There are several ways in which the intending settler may obtain 
 lands : 
 
 By locating on public lands in the districts mentioned where irri- 
 gation is not necessary. 
 
 By locating on public lands that require irrigation, but so located 
 that a water appropriation may be made and water diverted without 
 incurring too great an investment. 
 
 By locating and acquiring title to lands that will be irrigated under 
 the state arid land commission act. 
 
 By leasing or purchasing lands that are embraced in private canal 
 systems. 
 
 By purchasing improved lands carrying water rights. 
 
 A homestead may be secured by any person who is the head of a 
 family, or has arrived at the age of twenty-one years, and is a citizen 
 
HOW LANDS MAY BE HAD 355 
 
 of the United States, or has filed his declaration of intention to become 
 such, and who is not the proprietor of more than i6o acres of land in 
 any state or territory; he is entitled to one-quarter section (i6o acres), 
 or less quantity of unappropriated public land, under the homestead 
 laws. The applicant must make afirdavit that he is entitled to the 
 privileges of the homestead act, and that the entry is made for his 
 exclusive use and benefit, and for actual settlement and cultivation, 
 and must pay the legal fee and that part of the commission required, 
 as follows: Fee for i6o acres, $io; commission, $4 to $12; fee for 
 eighty acres, $5 ; commission, $2 to $6. Within six months from 
 date of the entry the settler must take up his residence upon the 
 land, and reside thereupon and cultivate the same for five years con- 
 tinuously. At the expiration of this period, or within two years there- 
 after, proof of residence and cultivation must be established by four 
 witnesses. The proof of settlement with the certificate of the register 
 of the land office is forwarded to the general land office at Wash- 
 ington, from which patent is issued. Final proof cannot be made 
 until the expiration of live years. The government recognizes no 
 sale of a homestead claim. After the expiration of fourteen months 
 from the date of entry the law allows the homesteader to secure title 
 to the tract, if so desired, by paying for it in cash and making proof 
 of settlement, residence and cultivation for that period. The law 
 allows only one homestead privilege to any one person, but under 
 act of March 2, 1889, section two provides in certain cases, when the 
 first home.stead was necessarily abandoned, that a second homestead 
 may be made. 
 
 An unmarried woman, of age, can take the benefit of the home- 
 stead law. If she marries before she has acquired the title, and con- 
 tinues her residence on her claim, she can proceed to prove up at 
 the proper time, the same as if she had remained single, but husband 
 and wife cannot secure separate tracts by maintaining separate resi- 
 dences at the same time. All the sons and daughters of a family, 
 who are of age, are entitled to take up land under the United States 
 laws. 
 
 A soldier who has served in the army or navy during the War of 
 the Rebellion for over ninety days can obtain 160 acres of any public 
 lands by filing (himself or by an attorney) a declaratory statement 
 and within six months thereafter filing his affidavit and application, 
 commencing settlement and cultivation, and continuing the same for 
 five years, less the time he served in the army or navy, but such time 
 in no case to exceed four years. His widow can take advantage of 
 the above. In case of his death in the army, or discharge therefrom 
 on account of wounds or disability incurred in the line of duty, the 
 term of his enlistment is deducted. In case of the death of the sol- 
 dier, his widow, if unmarried, or in case of her death or marriage, 
 then his minor orphan children, by a guardian duly appointed and 
 officially credited at the Department of the Interior, shall be entitled 
 to all the benefits given to soldiers under the homestead laws. 
 
 Under the desert land act, any citizen of the United States, or per- 
 sons who have declared their intention to become such, and who are also 
 residents of the state or territory in which the land sought is situated, 
 may file a declaration under oath with the register and receiver of 
 the land district in which any desert land is situated, that he intends 
 
356 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 to reclaim a tract of desert land, not exceeding 320 acres, by conduct- 
 ing water upon the same, within four years. At the time of filing 
 this declaration a fee of twenty-five cents for each acre of land pro- 
 posed to be so reclaimed must be paid. 
 
 At the time of making the declaration the land taken up under this 
 act must be particularly described, if surveyed, or, if unsurveyed, must 
 be described as nearly as possible. The party shall also file a map of 
 said land, which shall exhibit a plan showing the mode of contem- 
 plated irrigation, and which plan shall be sufficient to thoroughly 
 irrigate and reclaim said land and prepare it to raise ordinary agri- 
 cultural crops, and shall also show the source of the water to be used for 
 irrigation and reclamation. At any time within four years, upon mak- 
 ing satisfactory proof to the register and receiver of the reclamation 
 of said land, and the expenditure thereon for improvements of $1 an 
 acre each for three years, and proof of the cultivation of one-eighth 
 of the land, and upon the payment of the additional sum of $1 per 
 acre, a patent shall be issued. A claimant must also file with the reg- 
 ister during each of said three years proof by the affidavits of two or 
 more credible witnesses that he has made such expenditure. He may, 
 however, prove up earlier whenever he can make the required proof 
 of reclamation, cultivation and expenditure to the aggregate of $3 per 
 acre. All lands, exclusive of timber and mineral lands, which will 
 not, without irrigation, produce some agricultural crop, are deemed 
 desert lands. Residence on the land is not required. 
 
 Under the timber and stone act, any citizen of the United States, 
 or one who has declared his intention to become such, can acquire 
 not to exceed 160 acres ; land must be chiefly valuable for timber or 
 stone, containing no valuable deposits of gold, silver, copper, coal or 
 cinnabar. Applicant is required to file sworn statement with register 
 and receiver that he has made no prior application ; to designate the 
 tract required by legal subdivisions, setting forth its character as above, 
 and that it is for applicant's own use and benefit. Such application 
 will be published sixty (60) days when the applicant files further proof 
 of the character of the land, paying $2.50 an acre therefor. Married 
 women can purchase in Montana. 
 
 The homestead affidavits can be made before the clerk of the district 
 court at any county seat, or before any United States commissioner in 
 the state, and the journey to the land office be saved. 
 
 The Carey Act. 
 
 The commission of the state consists of five members, appointed by 
 the governor, all residents and citizens of the state. Each member is 
 under a bond of $5,000, the secretary being bonded for $20,000. The 
 commission has an engineer, who does all work appertaining to his 
 position. 
 
 In reclaiming arid lands granted by the general government to the 
 state the commission is limited to an expenditure of $12.50 per acre. 
 The commission is empowered : 
 
 I. To select lands and make surveys of water systems necessary for 
 such reclamation. 
 
THE CAREY ACT 357 
 
 2. To make contracts for the construction of water systems and to 
 cause the lands to be settled. 
 
 3. To issue thirty-year six per cent bonds to meet the cost of rec- 
 lamation and settlement of the lands, these bonds being a lien on the 
 land, waler rights, water system and appurtenances of the particular 
 district for which they are issued. 
 
 4. To issue thirty-year six per cent bonds to develop water power 
 plants and water supply for domestic use, for the redemption of which 
 bonds a sinking fund is provided. These bonds are a lien on the water 
 system and appurtenances, and all bonds can be foreclosed as in the 
 case of mortgages for non-payment of principal and interest on matur- 
 ity of the bonds. 
 
 5. To sell such bonds at par for cash and pay cash for construction, 
 or to pay bonds in lieu of cash. 
 
 IN ADDITION, THE COMMISSION 
 
 1. Exercises full and immediate control over all construction and re- 
 quires suitable indemnity from the contractor in the form of a bond 
 from some responsible surety company. 
 
 2. Retains fifteen per cent of the entire cost of construction of water 
 systems and settlement of lands until both are fully accomplished. 
 
 3. Operates and maintains perpetually the water system, charging 
 the entire cost of such maintenance and operation equally against all 
 acreage in the district. 
 
 4. Sells all lands and water rights, collects all moneys, and places 
 them in the state treasury. 
 
 In case the interest on the bonds is not paid when due for want of 
 funds, interest coupons may be registered in the office of the state 
 treasurer, the registered coupons to draw six per cent interest per 
 annum. 
 
 If, after providing for the redemption of coupons next due, there 
 is a surplus in the state treasury, the commission may require the state 
 treasurer to invest such moneys in state, county or school district 
 bonds, or it may cause such moneys to be placed in trust for the benefit 
 of the bondholders. 
 
 No land reclaimed under the provisions of this act may be sold to 
 any except actual settlers, nor may the commission sell more than 160 
 acres to any one settler. 
 
 The maintenance rate for the use of water fixed by the commission 
 " shall not exceed the actual cost of maintaining and operating said 
 system in an economical manner and the cost of necessary improve- 
 ments." Thus the settler gets water at actual cost. There is no di- 
 rect profit to the state, which relies for its profit in the increased num- 
 ber of citizens and the increased production of wealth. 
 
 Inasmuch as the commission may pay bonds instead of cash for con- 
 struction of water systems and canals, a settler may buy land with 
 bonds. 
 
 The commission has established certain rules for the sales of lands 
 and the use of water. The rules regarding the sale of land are as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 I. -Application. Any person desiring to settle upon and purchase 
 lands shall file his application for the same on the form established by 
 the commission, stating therein the lands desired to be purchased and 
 
358 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 the proposed method and terms of payment (which shall conform to 
 the terms hereinafter set forth) and his intention to settle on said 
 lands within days from the date of the application. 
 
 2. Settlement and Payments. Applicants shall settle upon the lands 
 selected and make the first payment required and deliver the notes for 
 deferred payments within days from the date of the applica- 
 tion, whereupon they shall be entitled to a certificate of selection. 
 
 3. Deposit. At the time of the application the applicant shall de- 
 posit with the commission in cash or district bonds at least five per 
 cent of the total purchase price as earnest money, to be applied on the 
 first payment when the certificate of selection is issued ; but in case of 
 failure to m.^ike the first payment when due, said deposit shall be for- 
 feited. 
 
 4. Payment in Bonds. Bonds of the district at par and accrued in- 
 terest shall at all times be receivable in payment for lands, either for 
 the whole purchase price or any part thereof or for any deferred pay- 
 ment of principal or interest. 
 
 5. Terms of Sale. The terms of sale shall be one-tenth cash on the 
 issue of the certificate, with interest at six per cent per annum from 
 the date of the application, and the balance in nine equal annual pay- 
 ments bearing six per cent interest per annum, payable semi-annually. 
 
 6. Interest Added. To the first cash payment shall be added six per 
 cent interest on the total purchase price as assessed by the commission, 
 from the date of the first bond issued for the reclamation of the land 
 in the district to the date of the application. (First bond issued Jan- 
 uary I, 1901, on District No. 4, Dearborn Canal.) 
 
 7. Purchaser's Option of Larger Payments. The purchaser may pay 
 the whole, or any part greater than one-tenth, at the time of the issue 
 of the certificate of selection, either in district bonds at par and ac- 
 crued interest, or in cash, if desired. 
 
 8. Varied Deferred Payments. Deferred payments may be made in 
 less than nine equal annual payments, provided, however, such pay- 
 ments shall be in equal annual amounts, the first one due one year 
 after the date of the application. 
 
 9. Payments Before Maturity. Any deferred payment may be made 
 before its maturity on any interest payment day, providing the last 
 maturing payment shall be made before a payment maturing earlier 
 can be made. 
 
 ID. Coupon Notes. All deferred payments shall be represented by 
 coupon notes in the form established by the commission, signed by 
 the applicant and bearing the date of the application. Such notes and 
 coupons shall bear interest at ten per cent after their maturity. 
 
 II. Varied Payment Days. If desired by the purchaser, the commis- 
 sion may arrange the date of the first payment to fall at a more con- 
 venient time to the purchaser than one year from the date of applica- 
 tion, but in no event at a greater period than one year and three months 
 from the date of the application, the balance of the deferred payments 
 to be paid annually after the date of the first payment so fixed — inter- 
 est payments to be arranged semi-annually to correspond. 
 
 T2. Forfeiture on Default. In case of default in any payment of de- 
 ferred principal or interest on any note at the maturity of either, such 
 default continuing for six months, the lands and all payments made 
 prior t-o such default shall be forfeited to the state, but the commission 
 
THE CAREY ACT 359 
 
 may, notwithstanding such default, upon good cause shown at any time 
 before the next recurring annual payment, reinstate the contract and 
 extend the time of payment of all arrearages, but in no event beyond 
 the next recurring annual payment. 
 
 13. Sale of forfeited Lands. Forfeited lands shall be offered again 
 for settlement and sale at such prices and on such terms as may from 
 time to time be established by the commission, provided, however, the 
 price shall not be less than the balance remaining unpaid on the first 
 sale of the lands, with interest and costs added. 
 
 The rules in regard to the use of water are as follows : 
 
 1. Superintendent. The commission shall appoint a district superin- 
 tendent for each district, to hold office at the pleasure of the commis- 
 sion, and the commission shall fix his compensation and duties. 
 
 2. Duties of Superintendent. The district superintendent, under 
 the orders of the commission, shall have entire charge of the canal 
 system and the distribution and use of water, subject to such regula- 
 tions as may be from time to time established by the commission. 
 
 3. Flow and Waste. The flow of water shall be regulated accord- 
 ing to crop requirements, and waste of water will not be permitted in 
 any instance. 
 
 4. Settler's Rights. Every settler shall be entitled to a sufficient flow 
 of water, in the proper seasons, to irrigate all crops on his lands; such 
 flow and use of water to be at all times subject to the rules and regu- 
 lations of the commission. 
 
 5. Expenses. All expenses incurred in the administration, main- 
 tenance and repair of the canal system shall be charged according to 
 law, and the commission shall annually assess the amount against 
 the settlers as provided by law. 
 
 6. Laterals and Gates. All laterals and gates must be built ac- 
 cording to surveys and plans furnished by engineer of the district. 
 Such laterals and gates shall be paid for by the user, and shall be 
 the property of and subject to the use of the state. 
 
 7. Trespass. No trespass will be permitted upon any canal, lateral, 
 gate or right of way, or any property of the state in the district. 
 
 8. Policy of Home Rule. The Commission shall from time to 
 time establish such further rules and regulations as it may deem for 
 the best interests of the district, and hereby declares it to be the 
 policy of the Commission after the completion and settlement of 
 any district, to leave the administration and maintenance thereof in 
 the hands of the settlers, as far as may be practicable and permis- 
 sible by law. 
 
 It will be seen from the foregoing rules and regulations that one 
 wishing to buy a farm can get one from the northwestern states on 
 as favorable terms as he can buy anywhere in the country ; and hav- 
 ing bought it he is surer of being able to make the annual payments 
 than on any unirrigated farm in the world, because on an irrigated 
 farm he is sure of his crop, and does not have to figure on losing 
 twenty-five to fifty per cent of a crop every three or five years. 
 
360 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Government Land Offices. 
 
 The operation of the United States land laws is simple, and per- 
 sons desiring further information in regard to government lands may 
 apply to or address "Register United States Land Office," at the fol- 
 lowing places : 
 
 Minnesota. 
 
 No. Dakota. 
 
 Alontana. 
 
 Washington. 
 
 Oregon, 
 
 St. Cloud. 
 Marshall. 
 Crookston. 
 Duluth. 
 
 Fargo. 
 
 Grand Forks. 
 Devil's Lake. 
 Bismarck. 
 
 Miles City. 
 
 Lewistown. 
 
 Bozeman. 
 
 Helena. 
 
 Missoula. 
 
 Kalispell. 
 
 Olympia. 
 
 Vancouver. 
 
 Seattle. 
 
 Walla Walla. 
 
 Spokane. 
 
 North Yakima. 
 
 Waterville. 
 
 Oregon City. 
 Roseburg. 
 La Grande. 
 Lake View. 
 The Dalles. 
 Burns. 
 
 
 Lewiston, Idaho. 
 Cceur d'Alene, Idaho. 
 
 
 The Department of United States Geological Survey in 1903 de- 
 cided upon and the Secretary of the Interior approved, of five irri- 
 gation districts to be developed under the June, 1902, arid reserva- 
 tion act. These projects are at Sweetwater Dam, Wyo., Gunnison 
 Tunnel, Colo.. Truckee and Carson Rivers, Nev., Milk River and St. 
 Mary's Lakes, Mont., and Tonto Creek, Ariz. The estimate of the 
 cost of these reservoirs and canals is $7,500,000, or an average of 
 $7.50 per acre, but since about sixty per cent of the area covered will 
 be worth irrigating the cost per acre of the land actually watered will 
 be about $12.50 per acre. This is to be paid in ten equal installments 
 the same as the land coming under the Carey Act. 
 
 Much land will be made available to settlement which no doubt 
 will be taken up very fast as soon as the plans are fully made known. 
 
 Commercial Organizations. 
 
 For Special Information Regarding Lands and Business Opportunities, Address 
 the Following Commercial Organizations: 
 
 City. 
 Crookston, 
 Thief River Falls, 
 
 Bottineau, 
 Devil's Lake, 
 Dickinson, 
 
 Fargo, 
 
 Grafton, 
 
 Grand Forks, 
 
 Jamestown, 
 
 Lakota, 
 
 Valley City, 
 
 Washburn, 
 
 County. 
 Polk. 
 Redlake. 
 
 Bottineau. 
 
 Ramsey. 
 
 Stark. 
 
 Cass. 
 
 Walsh. 
 
 Grand Forks. 
 
 Stutsman. 
 
 Nelson. 
 
 Barnes. 
 
 McLean. 
 
 ML\^NESOTA. 
 
 Name. 
 Commercial L^nion, 
 
 Commercial Club, 
 
 NORTH DAKOTA. 
 Commercial Club, 
 Devil's Lake Club, 
 Library Association and 
 
 Commercial Club. 
 Commercial Club. 
 Business Men's Club, 
 No organization. 
 Business Men's Ass'n, 
 Board of Trade. 
 Business Men's Union, 
 Commercial Club, 
 
 Officer. 
 Martin O'Brien, Sec. 
 Wm. C. Smiley, Sec. 
 
 W. R. Mcintosh, Sec. 
 J. F. Henry, Sec. 
 
 Evan S. Tyler, Sec. 
 H. L. Haussman, Sec. 
 Address G. B. Clifford. 
 E. J. Gleason, Sec. 
 S. M. Poole, Sec. 
 A. P. Peakc. Sec. 
 T. J. Haugebery. See: 
 
COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS 
 
 361 
 
 MONTANA. 
 
 City. 
 Anaconda, 
 
 Bigtimber, 
 
 Billings, 
 
 Bozeman, 
 
 Butte. 
 
 Forsythe, 
 
 Fort Benton, 
 
 Great Falls, 
 
 Helena, 
 
 Kalispell, 
 
 Miles City, 
 
 Missoula, 
 
 White Sul. Spgs, 
 
 Aberdeen, 
 Ballard, 
 
 Chehalis, 
 
 Clarkeston, 
 
 Colfax, 
 
 Davenport, 
 
 Ellensburg, 
 
 Everett, 
 
 Fairhaven, 
 
 Goldendale, 
 
 Kalama, 
 
 Olympia, 
 
 Port Angeles, 
 
 Port Townsend, 
 
 Ritzville, 
 
 Seattle, 
 
 South Bend, 
 
 Spokane, 
 
 Tacoma, 
 
 Vancouver. 
 
 Walla Walla, 
 
 Waterville, 
 
 Wenatchee, 
 
 Whatcom, 
 
 N. Yakima, 
 
 Boise, 
 
 Bonners Ferry, 
 Idaho Falls, 
 Lewiston, 
 Moscow, 
 Pocatello, 
 Shoshone, 
 Weiser, 
 
 Albany, 
 
 Ashland, 
 
 Astoria, 
 
 Baker City, 
 
 Corvallis, 
 
 Dallas, 
 
 Eugene, 
 
 Grants Pass, 
 
 Heppner, 
 
 Hillsboro, 
 
 Hood River, 
 
 Independence, 
 
 La Grande, 
 
 McMinnville, 
 
 County. 
 Deer Lodge. 
 Sweet Grass. 
 Yellowstone. 
 Gallatin. 
 Silver Bow, 
 Rosebud. 
 Choteau. 
 Cascade. 
 Lewis and Clark. 
 Flathead. 
 Custer. 
 Missoula. 
 Meagher. 
 
 Chehalis. 
 
 King. ■ 
 
 Lewis. 
 
 Asotin. 
 
 Whatcom. 
 
 Lincoln. 
 
 Kittitas._ 
 
 Snohomish. 
 
 ^\'hatcom. 
 
 Klickitat. 
 
 Cowlitz. 
 
 Thurston. 
 
 Clallam. 
 
 Jefferson. 
 
 Adams. 
 
 King. 
 
 Pacific. 
 
 Spokane. 
 
 Pierce. 
 
 Clark. 
 
 Walla Walla. 
 
 Douglas. 
 
 Chelan. 
 
 Whatcom. 
 
 Yakima. 
 
 Ada. 
 
 Kootenai. 
 
 Bingham. 
 
 Nez Perces. 
 
 Latah. 
 
 Bannock. 
 
 Lincoln. 
 
 Washington. 
 
 Linn. 
 
 Jackson. 
 
 "Clatsop. 
 
 Baker. 
 
 Benton. 
 
 Polk. 
 
 Lane. 
 
 Josephine. 
 
 Morrow. 
 
 Washington. 
 
 Wasco. 
 
 Polk. 
 
 Union. 
 
 Yamhill. 
 
 Name. 
 No organization. 
 
 Business Men's Club, 
 Commercial Club, 
 The Gallatin Club, 
 Business Men's Ass'n, 
 Building & Loan Ass'n, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Business Men's Ass'n, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Miles City Club, 
 Business Men's Ass'n, 
 Board of Trade, 
 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 Merchants' Ass'n, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Citizens' Club, 
 Business Men's Ass'n. 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Hoard of Trade, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 No organization. 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Cliamber of Commerce, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Washington T>and Co., 
 No organization. 
 Commercial Club, 
 Commercial Club, 
 
 IDAPIO. 
 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Business Men's Ass'n, 
 Business Men's ^Vs^'n, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 No organization. 
 Commercial Club, 
 
 OREGON. 
 
 Alco Club, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Citizen's League, 
 Citizen's League, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Plassola Com. Club, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Commercial Club, 
 Board of Trade, 
 
 Officer. 
 Address W. A. Bower. 
 T. E. Sheridan, Sec. 
 P. B. Moss. 
 L. Vanderhook, Sec. 
 J. T. O'Brien, Sec. 
 E. F. Mayerhoff, Sec. 
 D. G. Browne, Sec. 
 A'incent Fortune, Sec. 
 C. H. Boynton, Sec. 
 Jas. Conlon, Pres. 
 M. G. Peek, Sec. 
 J. W. Kieth, Pres. 
 B. W^ Badger, Sec. 
 
 P. S. Locke, Pres. 
 E. B. Cox, Sec. 
 W. A. Westover, Sec. 
 E. H. Libby, Sec. 
 G. H. Lennox, Sec. 
 A. W. Turner, Pres. 
 P. A. Getz, Sec. 
 Walt. Tliornton, Sec. 
 R. G. Gamwell, Sec. 
 A. J. Ahala, Sec. 
 J. P. Atkin, Sec. 
 Fred Schomber, Sec. 
 Horace White, Sec. 
 N. S. Snyder, Sec. 
 Address Jul. Liemer, 
 J. B. Meikle. Sec. 
 M. D. Egbert, Sec. 
 L. G. Monroe, Sec. 
 T. S. Whitehouse, Sec. 
 H. W. Arnold, Sec. 
 T. A. Paul, Sec. 
 C. T. Hansen. 
 Add. Arthur Gunn. 
 S. B. Irish, Sec. 
 Fred Chandler, Sec. 
 
 W. E. Pierce, Sec. 
 C. O'Callaghan, Sec. 
 A. G. Changnon, Sec. 
 V.W. Hasbrouck, Sec. 
 H. \\''ither3poon. Sec. 
 Alex. Hyslop, Sec. 
 Add. Bert Perrine. 
 0. M. Harvey, Sec. 
 
 Fred Dawson, Sec. 
 S. M. Calkins, Sec. 
 C. R. Higgins, Sec. 
 N. C. Haskell, Sec. 
 
 E. E. Wilson, Sec. 
 T. C. Ilayter, Sec. 
 
 F. McAlister, Sec. 
 Fred Mansch, Sec. 
 F. Gilliam, Pres. 
 F. M. Heidel, Sec. 
 n. McDonald, Sec. 
 R. E. Gray, Sec. 
 
 R. L. Lincoln, Sec. 
 H. S. Maloncy, Sec. 
 
362 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 City. 
 
 Med ford, 
 
 Oregon City, 
 
 Pendleton, 
 
 Portland, 
 
 Roseburg, 
 
 Salem, 
 
 Silverton, 
 
 The Dalles, 
 
 Vale, 
 
 Vancouver, 
 
 Victoria, 
 
 County. 
 Jack=;on. 
 "Clackamas. 
 Umatilla. 
 Multnomah. 
 I^ouglas. 
 Dallas. 
 Marion. 
 Wasco. 
 Malheur. 
 
 Name. 
 P.oard of Trade, 
 Board of Trade, 
 Commercial ;\.ss'n, 
 Chamber of Commerce, 
 Tioard of Trade, 
 G. Salem Com. Club, 
 I^.oard of Trade. 
 Com. & Athletic Club, 
 Commercial Club, 
 
 P>RITISI-T COLUMBIA. 
 
 New \\''estminster. Tourist Association, 
 Esquimalt. 
 
 Tourist Association, 
 
 Officer. 
 J, W. Lawton, Sec. 
 T. \V. Loder, Sec. 
 J. F. Robinson, Sec. 
 Samuel Council, Sec. 
 Ray McClellan, Sec. 
 N. H. Judah, Sec. 
 P. L. Brown, Sec. 
 L. E. Crowe, Sec. 
 John Bos well. Sec. 
 
 Fred Buscomb, Pres. 
 A. B. Frazer, Treas. 
 
 For assistance in obtaining some of tJie data and photographs for this book 
 the author is indebted, among others, to the following: 
 
 Mr. J. A. Ferguson, Commissioner of Agriculture, Labor and Industry, 
 Helena, Mont. ; Mr. Henry B. Reed, Secy. Chamber of Commerce, Portland, 
 Ore. ; Mr. J. FI. Brady, Pres. American Title and Trust Co., Pocatello, Idaho; 
 Mr. J. T. O'Brien, Secy. Business Men's Assn., Butte, Mont.; Mr. P. B. Moss, 
 Pres. The Billings Club, Billings, Mont.; Mr. D. L. Killen, Sumpter, Ore.; Mr. 
 J. S, \^'Ilitehouse, Secy. Chamber of Commerce, Tacoma, Wash ; Mr. F. E. 
 Goodall, Pres. Chamber of Commerce, Spokane, Wash. ; Mr. PL Strain, Pres. 
 Chamber of Commerce, Great Falls, Mont.; Mr. W. PI. Dudley, Secy. Anaconda 
 Copper Mining Co., Anaconda, Mont. ; Mr. Eugene Carroll, Pres. Butte Busi- 
 ness Men's Assn., Butte, Mont. ; Capt. D. E. Libby, San Francisco, Cal. ; Mr. 
 E. G. Crawford, I'res. \'ancouver Commercial Club, Vancouver, Wash. ; Mr. 
 Arthur Gunn, Wenatchee, Wash. ; Mr. E. A. Macriim, former Secy, of the 
 Business Men's Assn., Helena, Mont. ; Mr, Albert Perrine, Shoshone, Idaho; 
 
 Mayor W. B. George, Billings, Mont, 
 
 Chamber of Commerce, Olympia, Wash. 
 
 Boise, Idaho ; Mr, Fred Bascomb, Pres 
 
 N. Whealdon, Pres. Commercial Club, The Dalles, 
 
 The Dalles, Ore. ; Mr. Lee Moorhouse, Pendleton 
 
 Mr. Fred Schomber, Secy. Olympia 
 
 Mr. D. W. Ross, Idaho State Engineer, 
 
 Tourist Assn., Vancouver, B. C. ; Hon. 
 
 Ore.; Mr. Benj. A. GifFord, 
 
 Ore. ; Mr. Geo. M. Weiser, 
 
 Portland, Ore. ; The Portland Oregonian, Portland, Ore. ; Capital News, Boise, 
 Idaho; Idaho Falls Chamber of Commerce; the Passenger Departments of the 
 Great Xorthcrn Railway, the Korthern Pacific Railway, the Oregon Railroad & 
 Navigation Co., and the Oregon Short Line. 
 
INDEX 
 PAET I 
 
 PAGE 
 
 AITKEN, Minn 14 
 
 Anoka, Minn. ._ -- 15 
 
 Arlington, Wash 70 
 
 Arlee, Mont. -- 53 
 
 Auburn, Wash 64 
 
 BEMIDJI, Minn _ 15 
 
 Bigtimber, Mont .30 
 
 Billings, Mont 30 
 
 Bismareli, N. D 21 
 
 Bitter Root Valley, Mont _ - - 51 
 
 Bozeman, Mont - 45 
 
 Bozeman Tunnel, Mont 45 
 
 Brainerd, Minn -.16 
 
 Buckley, Wash 64 
 
 CARBONADO, Wash 04 
 
 Carlton, Minn 14 
 
 Casselton, N. D - 20 
 
 Castle Rock, Wash 79 
 
 Centralia, Wash. - 76 
 
 Chehalis, Wash. - 78 
 
 Cheney, Wash 56 
 
 Chestnut, Mont --. --- ---45 
 
 Cloquet, Minn. 12 
 
 Crocker, Wash. 64 
 
 Custer Battlefield - 26 
 
 DESMET, Mont 53 
 
 Detroit, Minn 18 
 
 Dickinson, N. D - 3:3 
 
 Di'ummond, Mont 50 
 
 Duluth, Minn 12 
 
 EAST HELENA, Mont 48 
 
 Elk River, Minn - 15 
 
 Ellensburg, Wash -- 62 
 
 Everett, Wash. .- 69 
 
 rARGO,N.D -.19 
 
 Flathead Indians 53 
 
 Fort Keogh, Mont -.26 
 
 Frazee, Minn -.18 
 
 GLENDIVE, Mont.- -25 
 
 Glenullen, N. D --23 
 
 Glyndon, Minn 19 
 
 Gallatin Valley, Mont -- -46 
 
 Garrison, Mont 49 
 
 Goble, Ore - "9 
 
 Gold Creek, Mont 50 
 
 H AUSER JUNCTION, Idaho 54 
 
 Hebron, N. D 33 
 
 Helena, Mont 48 
 
 Hinckley, Minn 12 
 
 Hope, Idaho.- 54 
 
 Hot Springs, Wash. 64 
 
 Hunt's Junction, Wash 58 
 
 IDAHO --- 64 
 
 Issaquah, Wash - 70 
 
 JAME3T0WN, N. D --- 21 
 
 KALAMA, Wash .-- 79 
 
 Kelso, Wash - - - - 79 
 
 Kennewick. Wash --.fiS 
 
 Kent, Wash - 66 
 
 Kiona, Wash _ 53 
 
 liAKEVIEW, Wash 76 
 
 Laurel, Mont .30 
 
 Leech Lake Country, Minn 16 
 
 Little Falls, Minn 16 
 
 Little Missouri, N. D 24 
 
 Livingston, Mont. - _ 31 
 
 Logan, Mont -- - 46 
 
 Lombard, Mont -- 47 
 
 PAGE 
 
 MABTON, Wash sk 
 
 Mandan, N. D.- - 33 
 
 Manhattan, Mont • 45 
 
 MarshallJunction, Wash. 66 
 
 Medora, N. D 34 
 
 Meeker, Wash. 04 
 
 Miles City, Mont !35 
 
 Minnesota 11-15 
 
 Missoula, Mont -,_ 50 
 
 Moorhead, Minn.. - 19 
 
 Mount Adams, Wash [62 
 
 Montana .-- -,25 
 
 MountRainier "75 
 
 Mount St. Helens, Wash 76 
 
 Mullau Tunnel, Mont 49 
 
 NEW SALEM, N. D 23 
 
 North Dakota 19 
 
 North Yakima, Wash 61 
 
 OLYMPIA.Wash -- 76 
 
 Oregon 79 
 
 Orting, Wash 64 
 
 PASCO, Wash 57 
 
 Perhain, Minn .- 18 
 
 Pine City, Jliiin 13 
 
 Portland, Ore 79 
 
 Prickley Pear Junction, Mont 4S 
 
 Prosser, Wash. 58 
 
 Puyallup, Wash. 71 
 
 BED RIVER VALLEY 20 
 
 Ritzville, Wash 57 
 
 Roslyn, Wash . - - fj2 
 
 Royulton, Minn 16 
 
 Rush City, Minn - 13 
 
 ST. CLOUD, Minn 15 
 
 St. Ignatius Blission . . . . 53 
 
 Sauk Rapids, Minn 15 
 
 Seattle, Wash.- 66 
 
 Selisb, Mont. 53 
 
 Snohomish, Wash 69 
 
 Snoqualmie, V\ ash.-- 70 
 
 Souta Tacoma, Wash 76 
 
 Spokane, Wash .55 
 
 Spiague, Wash 57 
 
 Springdale, Mont .30 
 
 Stampede Tunnel .' 64 
 
 Staples, Minn 18 
 
 Stillwater, Minn. 11 
 
 Sunny side Countiy 61 
 
 TACOMA, Wash. 71 
 
 Taylors Falls, Minn 11 
 
 Tehino, Wash 76 
 
 Toppenish, Wash .-. 58 
 
 Towusend, Mont 47 
 
 VALLEY CITY, N. D . 
 Verndale, Minn 
 
 -- --.-21 
 
 .18 
 
 TVADENA,Minn. 18 
 
 Walllila Junction, Wash... 58 
 
 Washington ..- - 56 
 
 White Bear, Minn 11 
 
 Wibaux, Mont. 25 
 
 Wilkeson, Wash 64 
 
 Winlock, Wash 79 
 
 Winnipeg Junction, Minn 19 
 
 Woolley, Wash .70 
 
 Wyoming, Minn 11 
 
 YAKIMA VALLEY, Wash 68 
 
 Yellowstone National Park 33 
 
364 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 PART II 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ADA CO., Idaho.- 154 
 
 Adams Co., Wash. ....304 
 
 Addenda 351 
 
 Agricultural Products 36 
 
 Alaska 323 
 
 Albany, Ore. .. 890 
 
 Alberta, N. W. Ter 320 
 
 Amalgamated Copper Co. 110 
 
 Anaconda, Mont. 116 
 
 Astoria, Ore. .294 
 
 Asotin Co. , Wash. 206 
 
 Assiniboia, N. W. Ter 320 
 
 BAKER CITY, Ore 264 
 
 Baker Co., Ore. 262 
 
 Ballard, Wash 226 
 
 Bannock Co., Idaho 144 
 
 Bear Lake Co., Idaho .148 
 
 Beaver Head Co. , Mont 126 
 
 Benton Co., Ore. 291 
 
 Bigtimber, Mont .122 
 
 Billings, Mont. 120 
 
 Bingham Co., Idaho 144 
 
 Bismarck, N. D 54 
 
 Blaine, Wash 215 
 
 Blaine Co. , Idaho 150 
 
 Boise, Idaho . . 154 
 
 Boise Co. , Idaho ... 154 
 
 Bozeman, Mont 124 
 
 British Columbia 306 
 
 Broadwater Co. , Mont 101 
 
 Butte, Mont 103 
 
 CANYON CO. , Idaho 154 
 
 Carbon Co., Mont 120 
 
 .Carey Act 356 
 
 Cariboo District, B.C.. 314 
 
 Ca.ssia Co., Idaho ..148 
 
 Cassiar District, B. C. 314 
 
 Challis, Idaho 140 
 
 Chehalis, Wash. 343 
 
 Chehalis Co., Wash 240 
 
 Chelan Co., Wash 194 
 
 Chinook, Mont 80 
 
 Choteau, Mont 81 
 
 Choteau Co., Mont. 78 
 
 Circle City, Alaska 336 
 
 Clackamas Co., Ore. 283 
 
 Clallam Co., Wash 246 
 
 Clark Co., Wash 246 
 
 Clarkston, Wash 306 
 
 Clatsop Co., Ore 294 
 
 FAOE 
 
 Climate.. .... 20 
 
 Colfax, Wash 202 
 
 Columbia Co., Ore ....394 
 
 Columbia Co., Wash 206 
 
 Columbia Basin 28 
 
 Columbia Plateau 167 
 
 Colville, Wash ...185 
 
 Colville Reservation 186 
 
 Comax, B. C. ...318 
 
 Commerce 43 
 
 Commercial Organizations 360 
 
 Conconnully, Wash. _ .186 
 
 Cook's Inlet, Alaska 333 
 
 Coos Co., Ore. 313 
 
 Corvallis, Ore. 391 
 
 Council City, Alaska 343 
 
 Cowlitz Co., Wash 345 
 
 Crook Co., Ore 874 
 
 Curry Co., Ore _ 804 
 
 Custer Co., Idaho. 138 
 
 Custer Co., Mont. .118 
 
 DALLAS, Ore 391 
 
 Davenport, Wash. ... 193 
 
 Dawson City, Alaska 339 
 
 Dawson Co. , Mont. . 84 
 
 Deer Lodge Co., Mont. 113 
 
 Douglas Co., Ore. .. 300 
 
 Douglas Co. , Wash. . . .192 
 
 Duluth, Minn 48 
 
 EAGLE CITY, Alaska 337 
 
 Early History 3 
 
 EUensburg, Wash. 206 
 
 Elmore Co., Idaho.. 154 
 
 Emigration z 39 
 
 Esquimau, B. C. 318 
 
 Eugene, Ore 390 
 
 Everett, Wash 218 
 
 FAIRHAVEN, Wash 314 
 
 Fargo, JSr. D ... 54 
 
 Fergus Co. , Mont 85 
 
 Ferry Co. , Wash .185 
 
 Fisheries 38 
 
 Flathead Co. , Mont. . _ 81 
 
 Flathead Valley, Mont. 81 
 
 Forsythe, Mont. . . 120 
 
 Fort Assinniboine, Mont 80 
 
 Fort Benton, Mont. ... 80 
 
 Fort Cudahy , Alaska 337 
 
 Forty Mile, Alaska 337 
 
INDEX 
 
 365 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Franklin Co. , Wash .... 204 
 
 Fremont Co., Idaho . . 140 
 
 GALLATIN CO., Mont .124 
 
 Gai-fleld Co., Wash . 206 
 
 Gilliam Co., Ore 270 
 
 Glacier Bay, Alaska .348 
 
 Glasgow, Mont. 77 
 
 Glendive, Mont 85 
 
 Goldendale, Wash 213 
 
 Government Land Offices 360 
 
 Grand Coulee, Wash. 193 
 
 Grand Forks, N. D 54 
 
 Granite Co., Mont 97 
 
 Grant Co., Ore... ....274 
 
 Grants Pass, Ore 305 
 
 Great Central Railway 378 
 
 Great Falls, Mont 90 
 
 HARNEY CO., Ore 276 
 
 Havre, Mont. 80 
 
 Helena, Mont. 94 
 
 Hillsboro, Ore. 293 
 
 Hinsdale, Mont 78 
 
 Hood River, Ore 274 
 
 Hudson's Bay Co 6 
 
 Huntington, Ore 264 
 
 IDAHO CO., Idaho 156 
 
 Idaho Falls, Idaho 146 
 
 Idaho ..138 
 
 Island Co. , Wash 316 
 
 JACKSON CO., Ore 304 
 
 Jefferson Co. , Mont 103 
 
 Jefferson Co. , Wash. 243 
 
 Josephine Co. , Ore - 304 
 
 Juneau, Alaska 346 
 
 KADIAK ISLAND, Alaska ...333 
 EaUspell, Mont 84 
 
 Kenai Peninsula, Alaska 333 
 
 King Co., Wash 319 
 
 Kitsap Co., Wash ... 240 
 
 Kittitas Co. , Wash 304 
 
 Klamath Co., Ore 379 
 
 Klamath Falls, Ore 380 
 
 Klickitat Co., Wash 310 
 
 Klondike, Discovery of 338 
 
 Kootenai Co. , Idaho 159 
 
 Kootenai District, B. C .313 
 
 LAKE CHELAN, Wash ..196 
 
 Lake Co., Ore. ..376 
 
 Lake View, Ore. 278 
 
 Lands 38 
 
 LaneCo., Ore 390 
 
 Latah Co., Idaho 158 
 
 Lemhi Co., Idaho 138 
 
 Lewis and Clark Co., Mont. 90 
 
 Lewis and Clark Expedi tion 6 
 
 Lewis Co., Wash 343 
 
 Lewiston, Idaho 159 
 
 Lewiston, Mont 87 
 
 Lewiston Co., Idaho... ..158 
 
 Lillooet District, B. C 314 
 
 Lincoln Co., Idaho ... 153 
 
 Lincoln Co., Ore 298 
 
 Lincoln Co., Wash 193 
 
 Linn Co., Ore. 388 
 
 Livingston, Mont. 124 
 
 Lost River Co., Idaho 150 
 
 MADISON CO., Mont i34 
 
 Malheur Co., Ore 376 
 
 Malta, Mont 78 
 
 Manitoba, Can 320 
 
 Marion Co., Ore 388 
 
 Mason Co., Wash 338 
 
 "Mazamas" Club 286 
 
 McMinnville, Ore 392 
 
 Meagher Co. , Mont 101 
 
 Medical Lake, Wash. ... 188 
 
 Miles City, Mont ...118 
 
 Mines 36 
 
 Minneapolis, Minn 47 
 
 Minnesota 46 
 
 Mission, Wash 196 
 
 Missoula, Mont ... 99 
 
 Missoula Co. , Mont 97 
 
 Montana . . ... 56 
 
 Montpelier, Idaho 148 
 
 Moran Bros. Co 333 
 
 Morrow Co., Ore .. 369 
 
 Moscow, Idaho 159 
 
 Multnomah Co., Ore. .282 
 
 NANAIMO, B. C 319 
 
 National Irrigation Law. 351 
 
 New Westminster, B.C.. ... 318 
 New Westminster District, B. C. 316 
 
 Nez Perces Co. , Idaho 1 58 
 
 Nome City, Alaska 341 
 
 Nome District, Alaska 339 
 
 North Dakota 50 
 
 North Yakima, Wash. 306 
 
 OKANOGAN CO., Wa.sh 186 
 
 Okanogan Highlands, Wash. ...166 
 Okanogan Valley, Wash. . . . 188 
 
366 
 
 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST 
 
 Olympia, Wash 236 
 
 Oneida Co., Idaho -148 
 
 Oregon 247 
 
 Oregon Cit)', Ore. 287 
 
 Owyhee Co., Idaho 148 
 
 PACIFIC CO., Wash 245 
 
 Palouse Country - 198 
 
 Paris, Idaho 14 
 
 Park Co., Mont 132 
 
 Payette Valley, Idaho 154 
 
 Pendleton, Ore 268 
 
 Pierce Co., Wash 226 
 
 Pilot Rocli:... -306 
 
 Pocatello, Idaho 146 
 
 Polk Co., Ore. -- 291 
 
 Port Angeles, Wash,- .243 
 
 Portland, Ore. 282 
 
 Powell Co., Mont. .-- 96 
 
 Prine ville, Ore - - - 275 
 
 RAVALLI CO., Mont. 99 
 
 Red River Valley 51 
 
 Regina, C^anada 323 
 
 Roseburg. Ore. 302 
 
 Rosebud Co., Mont.-- 118 
 
 ST. ANTHONY, Idaho 146 
 
 St. Helens, Ore 294 
 
 St. Paul, Minn 47 
 
 Salem, Ore 288 
 
 San Juan Co., Wash 216 
 
 Saskatchewan, N. W. Ter. 320 
 
 Seattle, Wash. ...- 220 
 
 Sherman Co., Ore 270 
 
 Shoshone, Idaho 154 
 
 Shoshone Co., Idaho 159 
 
 Silver Bow Co., Mont. 102 
 
 Sitka, Alaska - - . . 346 
 
 Skagit Co., Wash 215 
 
 Skagway, Alaska - _ .348 
 
 Skamania Co., Wash 346 
 
 Smelting and Refining Process .112 
 
 Snake River Valley 140 
 
 Snohomish Co., Wash. .- -317 
 
 Spokane, Wash 190 
 
 Spokane Co., Wash. 188 
 
 Stevens Co., Wash 184 
 
 Sumpter, Ore 264 
 
 Sweet Grass Co. , Mont. 123 
 
 TACOMA, Wash 228 
 
 Teton Co., Mont 80 
 
 The Dalles, Ore.- 273 
 
 Thurston Co. , Wash. - - - . 234 
 
 Tillamook, Ore 298 
 
 Tillamook Co. , Ore 398 
 
 Timber - 34 
 
 Toledo, Ore 300 
 
 Topography - . 20 
 
 UMATILLA CO., Ore 266 
 
 Unalaska, Alaska 334 
 
 Union Co. , Ore. - 264 
 
 VALDEZ, Alaska -332 
 
 Vale, Ore... 276 
 
 Valley Co., Mont. -- 76 
 
 Vancouver, B. C 316 
 
 Vancouver, Wash. 247 
 
 Vancouver Island, B. C. .318 
 
 Virginia City, Mont 134 
 
 Victoria, B. C 318 
 
 WAHKIAKUM CO., Wash.... 345 
 
 Walla Walla, Wash 210 
 
 WallaWallaCo., AVash.- 208 
 
 Wallowa Co., Ore --.266 
 
 Wasco Co., Ore 270 
 
 Washington 160 
 
 Washington Co., Idaho 156 
 
 Washington Co., Ore 393 
 
 WatervHIe, Wash 194 
 
 Weiser, Idaho 156 
 
 Wenatchee, Wash.- --.196 
 
 Wenatchee Valley 194 
 
 Western Canada 320 
 
 Whatcom, Wash. 314 
 
 Whatcom Co., Wash 213 
 
 Wheeler Co., Ore. 374 
 
 Whitman Co>, Wash 198 
 
 Willamette Valley 380 
 
 Wrangel, Alaska 346 
 
 YAKIMA CO., Wash -.304 
 
 Yakima Valley - -205 
 
 Yale District, B. C 313 
 
 Yellowstone Co., Mont. 120 
 
 Yellowstone National Park 126 
 
 Yamhill Co., Ore. --, 392 
 
r 
 
 VANCOUVER 
 
 Q» 
 
 The Sunset Doorway of Canada, 
 Western Terminus of the Great 
 Canadian Pacific Railway. The 
 Commercial Capital of British 
 Columbia. Sixteen years ago a 
 forest, to-day a city of over 30,000 
 
 You can reach there by the Great 
 
 Northern, the Northern Pacific and the 
 Canadian Pacific railroads. By the 
 Empress and Canadian Australian line 
 of Royal Mail Steamships. The Pacific 
 
 Coast S. S. Co. from San Francisco, 
 
 and the Canadian Pacific Navigation 
 
 Co.'s steamers. 
 
 e* 
 
 VANCOUVER 
 
 the first and last port of call for all 
 
 Alaska ELxcursion Boats 
 
 Also the best starting point for the 
 
 Golden Klondyke 
 
 IF YOU CONTEMPLATE 
 A TRIP TO THE WEST 
 DON'T OVERLOOK 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 All railroad companies sell 
 round-trip tickets return- 
 ing via Vancouver and the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, 
 ^■^■■^■^l^^^^^^^B at the same rate as by any 
 other line. Ask your railroad agent about it. 
 
 For further information write the Secretary of the 
 
 VANCOUVER TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 
 
 VANCOUVER. ■BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
Geographically, no city is better situated to become a commercial 
 metropolis; topographically, it is doubtful whether any other city in 
 the world has more beautiful surroundings in its immediate neighbor- 
 hood. 
 
 Its harbor is one of the grandest, it and the adjacent waters pre- 
 senting the broadest scope for the votaries of the rod and gun, and 
 for boating, yachting, and sea-bathing. 
 
 The climate of Vancouver and its neighborhood is milder than 
 that of Southern England — there is virtually no winter here. 
 
 Within ten mile's of the business streets of the city the moun- 
 taineer can indulge in the exhilarating pastime of mountain-climbing, 
 rivaling that of Switzerland. 
 
 The city itself, with its well-paved streets, its splendid schools, 
 churches, public and commercial buildings, its palatial homes, nest- 
 
 A TREE I^ STANLEY PARK, VANCOUVER, B.C. 
 
 ling in a riotous profusion of flowers, evergreens, and ivy, offers 
 many attractions that are peculiarly its own. 
 
 It rejoices in an ideal summer — malaria, black flies, and mosquitos 
 being unknown. The evenings are always cool and the air pure, 
 refreshing, and bracing. 
 
 Vancouver is the natural headquarters for tourists in British 
 Columbia, and offers the following additional attractions; 
 
 The .salmon-fishing industry of the mighty Fraser, in which an 
 average of between six and ten million salmon are canned 
 annuall}', is at our very doors — an industry that has not its 
 counterpart in either hemisphere. 
 Stanley Park (one of the largest and most beautiful natural parks 
 in the world), sea-bathing at English Bay, mountain-climbing, 
 grand canyons of the Capilano, boating, yachting, shooting, 
 fishing, hunting of big game, etc. 
 
VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 VANCOUVEK 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA 
 
 The western gateway of the British Empire. The most 
 important seaport in Canada. The commercial capital of 
 British Columbia. The most perfectly landlocked harbor 
 on the Pacific Coast. The Pacific Coast terminus of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway. The Home port of steamship 
 lines to China and Japan ; to Australia, New Zealand, Hono- 
 lulu, and Fiji; and to Alaska and the Klondike. The head- 
 quarters of the salmon packing- industry. The headquarters 
 of the halibut and deep sea fisheries. The headquarters of 
 the B. C. coasting trade. The center of the Provincial 
 lumber and shingle industries. The banking and financial 
 center of British Columbia. The wholesale and distributing 
 point for the Province. The chief farm produce market for 
 the Lower Fraser Valle)^, which farming district is 
 
 THE CALIFORNIA OF CANADA 
 
 The city which is growing faster than any other in Canada ; it? 
 population is now 35,000 — sixteen years old — what will it be in another 
 ten? The only city on the Continent showing the same growth of popu- 
 lation and commerce where there is no real estate excitement. We now 
 have the Canadian Pacific Railway; before the year is out we shall have 
 the Great Northern, and this year also the Yukon & Northern and 
 Coast-Kootenay railways commence building. This is not one of the 
 cities " destined to be," but 
 
 THE CITY OF THE PRESENT 
 
 We make a specialty of dealing in large business blocks returning- s^teady 
 rentals : in large loans on business property in the center of the city, and in selected 
 farms, dairy and fruit lands within fifty miles of Vancouver. Brick and stone busi- 
 ness blocks can be bought to return 6 to 7 per cent, and a gilt-edged mortgage to 
 return 5 per cent. Both investments are absolutely safe, and the former will show 
 steadily increased returns as the city grows. Rents are lower than in any other 
 town of equal size on the Pacific Coast; there is lots of room, for them to grow and 
 still not be too high. 
 
 The folio-wing publications will be sent free — Latest "Board of 
 Trade Report," "Vancouver Tourist Association" pamphlet, "List of brick and 
 stone business buildings for sale," giving particulars of rentals, etc. ; "Farm Lands 
 in British Columbia," published by the 
 
 SETTLERS' ASSOCIATION OF B. C. 
 
 for which we are the only accredited agents. 
 
 HOVEs GRA VELEY & CO. 
 
 Our office is in the heart of the city, on the Electric Street Car Line, 
 opposite the Arcade Entrance on Cambie Street. You cannot miss it. 
 
 34 
 
RED RIVER VALLEY LANDS 
 
 200 Farms, wild and improved, in the Red River 
 Valley of Minnesota; one-third Cash, Balance in 
 ten years at 4 per cent. These lands are all our 
 own lands and can be delivered at once with 
 perfect title. We are Land Owners Not Agents. 
 
 John Grove Land & Loan Co. 
 
 183 E. Third St., St. Paul, Minn. 
 
 BRANCH OFFICES: 
 
 Morris, Stevens Co. Ada, Norman Co. Crookston, Polk Co. 
 Hallock, Kittson Co. Warren, Marshall Co. 
 
 I" r> [■ r Land a /a a /n 
 
 lr\\YY B^il<li^g Material 
 I I I L L Homes /^ a a 
 
 MILLIONS OF ACRES 
 OF CHOICE, FF.EE 
 GOVERNMENT LAND 
 
 Open for entry under the Homestead Laws or purchasable 
 outright under the Timber Act at $2.50 per acre. 
 
 For particulars correspond or call on 
 
 THE N. W. HOMESTEAD LOGATIKG GO. 
 
 Cruisers, Examiners, Estimators, and Locators 
 of Government Land Exclusively 
 
 GENERAL OFFICE.: ct PAITI VfTKJXJ 
 
 376-382 Robert Street. *^- P^^L, MINN. 
 
 Minneapolis Office, Legal Dept., 
 
 120 Temple Court. Duluth, Minn. 
 
 Half-fare Excursions three times a Week from our Offices. 
 
S7\ PAUL. MINN. 
 
 We are Owners 
 Not Agents 
 
 of the following T AMRO 
 in the Northwest, iJnl^J^O 
 all carefully selected 
 
 BUY OF OWNERS 
 and SAVE, MONEY 
 
 Red River 
 Valley 
 
 Other 
 Lands 
 
 It costs nothing to write us 
 for maps and information 
 
 30,000 acres in Marshall and Kittson counties, 
 
 Minn. 
 30,000 '■ " Grand Forks County, N.D., near 
 
 Larimore. - 
 1.5,000 " " Walsh County, N. D. 
 30,000 " " Manitoba, near Winnipeg. 
 
 2.5,000 acres in Southern Minn., near Marshall. 
 20,000 " " Washburn Co., Wis. (cut over). 
 30,000 '■ " Aitkin County, Minn, (timber). 
 2.5,000 " " La Moure County, N. D. 
 1.5,000 " " Logan County, N. D. 
 20,000 " " Mercer County, N. D. 
 
 Burchard-Hulburt Investment Co. 
 
 705-708 Manhattan Building, ST. PAIL, MINN. 
 
 lNGE,RSOLL 
 
 52 E. 6th St., 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
 PUBLISHING PHOTOGRAPHER 
 
 INDIAN CURIOS 
 
 Weapons 
 
 Costumes 
 
 Ornaments 
 Utensils 
 Pottery 
 
 Baskets 
 Moccasins, Etc. 
 
 Large StocK, Prices Right, 
 Genuine Goods 
 
 NO CATALOGUE 
 "WHITE FOR "V^^HAT YOtT ^ITAN-T 
 
 KODAKS 
 
 SUPPLIES 
 
 And Amateur 
 Finishing : : : 
 
 OUR "(VORK AND PRICES ^V^ILL 
 PROVE SATISFACTORY 
 
 MAIL ORDERS RECEIVE OUR 
 PROMPT ATTENTION 
 
 Alaskan and Yellowstone 
 Park Views 
 
 STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS 
 All the Way Round the World 
 
 CATALOGUE FOH THE ASKING 
 
BILLINGS 
 
 M O NTA N A 
 
 The Metropolis of Eastern Montana. 
 
 On the main line of the North- 
 ern Pacific, and terminus of 
 the Burlington & Missouri 
 River Railroad in Montana. 
 
 THE GREATEST PRIMARY 
 WOOL MARKET in the WORLD 
 
 Sixty miles from the vast Coal 
 Fields of Red Lodge, Bear 
 Creek, Gebo, and Bridger. 
 
 Finest Climate, Finest Soil, Finest 
 Water, and Best Farms in Montana. 
 
BILLINGS, MONTANA. 
 
 The largest primary wool market in the 
 world; shipped 14,000,000 pounds in 1901. 
 
 Ships more mutton than any point on the Northern Pacitic. 
 
 A great cattle and horse market. 
 
 Only one city of a similar size exceeds its postoftice business. 
 
 A wide-awake and orderly citizenship. 
 
 The best lighted city in the Northwest. 
 
 A delightful climate. 
 
 High educational facilities. Churches and societies. 
 
 Free public hbrary. 
 
 Waterworks. Sewerage system. 
 
 Electric light and power. 
 
 City free mail delivery. Rural free mail delivery. 
 
 Fine hotel accommodations. 
 
 Graded and shady streets. Beautiful lawns and gardens. 
 
 Thoroughly equipped fire department. 
 
 Modern opera house. 
 
 Free lands for homeseekers. 
 
 Openings for manufactories. 
 
 Openings for farmers. Openings for investors. 
 
 Openings for all kinds of enterprising men. 
 
 FOR ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ADDRESS 
 
 HENRY WHITE 
 
 SECRETARY :: :: :: COMMERCIAL CLUB 
 
I have for sale in the city and surrounding country 
 everything in the line of real estate that is worth 
 having, especially lands under irrigation, sheep 
 ranches, range lands, and suburban city propert}^ 
 
 References : All banks and leading business houses in 
 
 Billings, of which city I am at present serving as mayor. 
 
 Correspondence solicited. 
 
 W. B. GEORGE, 
 
 HELENA, MONT. 
 
 
 I THE RANCH AGENCY | 
 
 * f 
 
 m Is Headquarters for W 
 
 f i 
 
 i Montana \ 
 
 I Ranch Vroperty I 
 
 i i 
 
 flS The Best Locations and Investments W 
 
 ^i in all parts of the State a a a a a ^ 
 
 /(S Our References are Well = Pleased <b 
 
 jj Customers in nearly every county. % 
 
 I JOHN SHOBILR, JR. | 
 
 % Pittsburg Block ^ Helena ^ Montana t 
 
 /«> f 
 
HELENA, MONT. 
 
 HELENA 
 
 M O NTANA 
 
 ^W|>III|I)W»».II>I H ,<V HM" W'«»«.< H I. H I>#^ 
 
 is the Capital of 
 the Treasure State 
 
 Of this magnificent State, HELENA is the capital city 
 and occupies an unrivaled situation. It is the natural dis- 
 tributing center, having ample banking facilities, railways and 
 lines of travel, and located in about the center of population, 
 with schools, churches, libraries, and every social advantage 
 for a city of homes, which it pre-eminently is. 
 
 The mining of valuable metals done within a radius of 
 50 to 75 miles around HELENA exceeds any other district 
 in the world. 
 
 For climate, soil, water for irrigation, mining, cattle, sheep, 
 and other stock raising and farming, this district offers great 
 inducements in the way of markets, all products being in 
 demand at good prices. 
 
 For manufactures in the city, and for the large smelting 
 interests at East Helena, power is generated from dams in 
 the Missouri River near the city; 12,000 horse power is now 
 used, and other dams projected which may generate 40,000 
 to 50,000 horse power. 
 
 For Information Address 
 
 Sec'y Business Men's Association 
 
 Helena, Montana 
 
 \ 
 
BUTTE. 
 
 MO NT AN A 
 
 MONTANA offers unparalleled in- 
 ducements to capital to engage in 
 the development of its wonderful 
 industrial resources. 
 
 MONTANA has the richest gold, 
 silver, copper, lead, iron, and coal 
 deposits and mines of the Rocky 
 Mountain Range. 
 
 MONTANA produces the most 
 wealth per capita of any State in 
 the Union. 
 
 And Butte is 
 Her Metropolis 
 
 For Information Address 
 
 SECY BUSINESS MEN'S ASS'N 
 l^ BUTTE. MONTANA 
 
BUTTE, MONT. 
 
 % ^ 
 
 % Write us regarding % 
 
 '% Mines, Mineral Lands | 
 
 I Montana and Idaho I 
 
 i Ranch Property I 
 
 I Butte City Real Estate | 
 
 I and prime I 
 
 Real Estate Loans | 
 
 «> Full Information upon request v| 
 
 I REYNOLDS & Mcdowell i 
 
 
 flS Insurance, Real Estate, Investments, Mines 
 
 I 4tf E. -Broadway. "BUTTE. MONT. 
 
 fk Reference, any Butte Bank 
 
 NORTH YAKIMA, WASH. 
 
 Henry B. Scudder Marshall S. Scudder 
 
 H. B. Scudder 6 Co. 
 
 24 North Seccuid Street 
 
 North YaRima ^ d Washington 
 
 FARM LOANS 
 
 INSURANCE 
 
 REAL ESTATE 
 
 Investments made and rents collected for non-resident 
 owners. Agents for the iSunnpside Lands under 
 the Washington Irrigation Company Canal. 
 
 Irrigated stock, fruit, hop, hay, and vegetable farms of all 
 sizes with first-class water rights for sale in all parts of the 
 
 YAKIMA VALLEY 
 
^he Upper 
 Snake RWer Valley 
 
 IN BINGHAM COUNTY 
 
 IDAHO 
 
 §Y FAR the most fertile portion of the great Snake River 
 Valley lies in that subdivision of the " Gem of the 
 Mountains" known as Bingham County. The fertile 
 and well improved lands lie in a wide expanse on either side 
 of the Snake River, which, in all its grandeur, flows through 
 about the central part of the Valley from end to end. 
 
 The water for irrigation in this section of Idaho is taken 
 principally from this great river and is flowed out upon the 
 land through great systems of canals, constructed at vast 
 expense for the sole purpose of irrigation. A great many 
 truthful and meritorious claims have been made for diff'erent 
 sections of country in the many States of the Arid West, but 
 it has never been disputed that the abundance of natural re- 
 sources by way of agricultural, fruit, and grazing lands and 
 water for irrigation, power, and other purposes, is equal to 
 this locality. 
 
 As a proof of the vast agricultural resources of this section 
 of the Valley, the productiveness of the soil, and the unlim- 
 ited supply of water, capital has sought the field, and under 
 the name of the Idaho Sugar Company, a beet-sugar factory, 
 the largest in the United States, is now being constructed at 
 Idaho Falls. It will have a capacity for handling 240,000 
 tons of beets per season, which are estimated to require 12,000 
 acres of land to produce. 
 
IDAHO FALLS, IDAHO. 
 
 The Upper Snake RiVer Valley in Bingham County, Idaho. 
 
 While this is the only sugar factory at present in the State 
 of Idaho, and by far the most important manufacturing insti- 
 tution in the Valley, there are mills and factories of less im- 
 portance, and a great and profitable field for the investment 
 of capital in all legitimate lines of business and manufacture 
 is here in its infancy. 
 
 INVESTORS AND HOMESEEKERS 
 
 WILL DO WELL TO INVESTIGATE. 
 
 THIS PORTION OF IDAHO BEFORE. 
 
 INVESTING OR LOCATING ELSEWHERE,. 
 
 On either side of the Valley are low ranges of mountains, 
 extending back for many miles, which afford a vast wealth of 
 grazing lands, and which may be occupied at all seasons of the 
 year by herds of live stock of all kinds. Flowing down from 
 and through these low ranges are many mountain streams 
 of clear, cold water, which invariably abound with mountain 
 trout, while along the streams and in the hills feathered and 
 other game abounds. 
 
 Idaho Falls, located in the heart of this Valley, is the prin- 
 cipal city in Southeastern Idaho, and is destined to be the 
 largest city in the State in the near future. Among its many 
 attractions are a $40,000 school house, nine churches of the 
 leading denominations of the State, with commodius, neat, 
 and substantial church buildings, many substantial and costly 
 business blocks, and elegant residences. 
 
 The city is located on the east bank of the great Snake 
 River, on the main line of the Oregon Short Line Railroad, 
 and is the junction of the St. Anthony branch of the Oregon 
 Short Line, leading to the Yellowstone National Park. 
 
 Beautiful mountain scenery surrounds the city in every 
 direction at various distances of view, and the climate is one 
 of the most delightful in the West. 
 
 Address A. V. Scott, Secretary, Executive Committee, 
 Idaho Falls, Idaho, for further information. 
 
cQ)m ((km (fkm mhmukm mm mm ukm ukm ukm ff^dife 
 
 ^ 
 ^ 
 
 ci^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 Pocatello 
 
 
 
 ^ The Railroad Center of Idaho 
 
 ..^ and Gateway to the Northwest g>, 
 
 Altitude. 4,464 ft. Population. 6.200 ©? 
 
 Public Schools State Academp §% 
 
 cS= Pocatello is the most promising young city 
 
 '■C^ in arid America to-day. It is situate in the 
 
 (<^ south pocket of the great Snake River Valley, ^^ 
 
 <^ which furnishes the best example of irrigated 
 
 i^g® lands on the continent. Here is the junction 
 
 f^ point of the main trunks of the Oregon Short 
 
 1^ Line, the one connecting Missouri River points 
 
 <^ with Portland and the Northwest ; the other, 
 
 (^ Denver and Salt Lake with Montana and Brit- 
 
 <^ ish Columbia. The main shop plant, costing 
 
 1^ $1,250,000 and having a capacity of 1,200 men, is 
 
 s^ located here. The surrounding mountains con- 
 
 (^ tain ledges of copper and gold ore, formerly a 
 
 iC§. part of the Fort Hall reservation but opened to 
 
 ,^ location and entry in 1902. The agricultural ®^ 
 
 C^ lands opened at the same time are to be irri- 
 
 (<^ gated by canals from the Snake River, the same 
 
 S^ being constructed to within a few miles of 
 
 (<§ Pocatello and to be brought to the town this 
 
 C^ year. The city has two banks, two newspapers, 
 
 (^ three hotels, and churches of all denominations ®^'' 
 are established here. =^.. 
 
 For detailed information, address §^ 
 
 ^<^ CHAMBER OF COMMERCE p" 
 
 .fc= Pocatello, Idaho ®5, 
 
 CF~ — "^^^ 
 
 
5^ttt?^riK^ Sj^j^/^-^^jc — ' ''"■-i-^— ^ 
 
 own «incl conlrol 
 
 OVER 40O MIU5 OF mR»6ATI0N CANALS 
 
 //7 //fc (JfferSn^kc /fiyer Vs/ley ,3nc/ /ijve /ors^/e aver 
 
 JOOO //^Fi/SATED FARMS 
 dll of which hjve perpehjf w-sfer rtphfi in fhesc Csruili 
 
 UJahcr I^enla/s 
 
 aver^porz from J5 cenhs ^ J*^ /oer^cre 
 
 Price o^Land 
 
 Trom JO. to 3o . per jicrz ^ccorc/ma ^ /mprovemenh 
 ihcludm^ Perpcf-uj/ v^ei^er n'o^h for e^ch /drm so/c/- 
 
 Vs cssh b.3/^nce ^ sut/- purchasers 
 /u///nforin,if'on iSru/riiSps nrni's/iec^ofj j^p//cjho/7 ^ 
 
 J H. BRADY, POCAT£LLO 
 
 President / 
 
 'OA^O 
 
IDAHO AND WASHINGTON. 
 
 *( "if 
 
 <(/ 
 \(/ 
 
 LEWISTON=CLARKSTON 
 
 Lewiston, Idaho Clarkston, Washington 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 '(> 
 
 I I 
 
 I ^'Brilliant Future: Wht; JWotf | 
 
 ^^ CITUATED in a deep, broad valley at the junction | 
 
 jjj '--^ of the Snake and Clearwater rivers, on the only * 
 
 if) water-grade route from the Rocky Mountains to the ^ 
 
 ^1 PacificOcean, through the vast, irregular inter-mountain <| 
 
 jtV plateau, at the only broadening of the canons for hun- \(> 
 
 /)\ dreds of miles, Lewiston-Clarkston is the logical " Key ^|^ 
 
 25 to the Pacific Northwest," the gateway to the ocean \j> 
 
 /ft down the Clearwater, Snake, and Columbia rivers from '$ 
 
 '& the mountainous plateaus of the interior. ^j 
 
 * It IS the necessary distributing center for 25,000 \l> 
 iflf, square miles of tributary territory — a rich, new wheat ^ 
 '^ country that now yields 8,000,000, and will soon yield >j? 
 jft 20,000,000 bushels per year; a dozen different gold, cop- flj 
 /j\ per, silver, iron, and coal mining camps of great promise; ^ 
 f^ a lumbering region as rich as the richest of Michigan's «l> 
 /(> best days in that industry; fat stock ranges and fertile ^ 
 
 /»> It shall have an all-the-year open water route to the ^J^ 
 
 /{J ocean, it being the head of navigation, and now having ^ 
 
 * rail and water traffic routes radiating in five directions. * 
 
 /A -I' 
 
 /(\ It shall be the seat of manufacturing on a large y| 
 
 * scale; of wheat flour and other cereal products ; of ^ 
 /(> lumber, furniture, house-finish, doors, sash, boxes, etc.; w 
 
 * of agricultural implements and machinery ; of woolen § 
 fl^ goods; of paper and paper goods; of meat products; of «> 
 /(> boots, shoes, and articles of leather. Why not, with ^ 
 |5 water-electric power and cheap coal, ample raw ma- * 
 jj terials, cheap and quick transportation, and abundant V 
 55 markets ? | 
 <l> ^ 
 
 * With a population in 1903 of 10,000, it will have <g 
 <f> 25,000 within five years or less ! Why not ? m 
 
 %l 
 
IDAHO AND WASHINGTON. 
 
 I ^"''Business Opportunities | 
 
 I in the Letaiston Country include : ^ % 
 
 * * 
 
 * (i) Wheat Growing, where yields run from 30 to 60 vjj 
 % bushels per acre, with over 2,000,000 acres of finest <» 
 % grain land. | 
 § (2) Lwe Stock, where the increase is rarely less than 40 % 
 
 * per cent, and cattle graze all winter. No deep w 
 % snows; no severe cold. % 
 
 * (3) i^'/wzz'«^for copper, gold, silver, iron, and coal, where ^ 
 ® the rich prospects offer ample opportunities to new- ^ 
 fly comers. p 
 (ft (4) Flour Milling for the export Asiatic, Alaskan, and »> 
 f South American trade. Our wheats are acknowl- j| 
 
 * edged the best grown west of the Rocky Mountains. * 
 
 * (5) Sazw il/?7/5 to utilize eight billion feet superior white w 
 % pine timber, and much more of yellow pine, fir, % 
 ® tamarack, and cedar. Lewiston-Clarkston offers ^. 
 Si the only sites economically available for this \(/ 
 S manufacture. |j 
 1^ (6) Woolen Mills to utilize 3,000,000 pounds of wool. |^ 
 
 * Abundant home market with local wholesale <» 
 % dealers. Electric power. Pure water. <| 
 
 flS (7) Flax Fiber Mill. In 1902 about 480,000 bushels of % 
 
 f flax grown. Fiber went to waste. * 
 
 % (8) Manufacture of agricultural implements and ma- ^ 
 
 f chinery. i» 
 
 fli Paper Mill to utilize straw and wood refuse. rtj 
 
 fli (9) Manufacture of all lines of flour, bagging, twines, ^ 
 
 1$ woolens, paper, furniture, lumber, machinery, but- ^j^ 
 
 * ter, cheese, brooms, canned fruits, etc. * 
 
 * ' «/ 
 § Simple tiaxa Materials. Cheap Pobler. jin Unequaled W. 
 
 * Distribution Point. \\if 
 
 I ^ — i 
 
 m Address, Secretary Commercial Club, t 
 
 * LEWISTON, IDAHO. \t/ 
 I ■'■ 
 
 * Secretary "Business Men's Association, w 
 
 9? * 
 
 * CLARKSTON, WASHINGTON. * 
 
 (L, ^,,, ,.^.,.,.,.,.,.^^,.,.,.,.,.,.^.^.^.,. ,. ,.,.,.^,.,.,.J> 
 

 Cii7eol9 ^oupty, Idal70 
 
 1 INCOLN COUNTY, IDAHO, is situated in the southern 
 part of the State and its resources are agriculture, fruit, 
 and stock-raising. From the Blue Lakes fruit farm, in 
 this county, exhibits of apples, pears, peaches, apricots, 
 and prunes were made at the World's Fair, the Trans- 
 mississippi Congress, and the Paris Exposition, and 
 were awarded first prize in each instance. 
 
 SHOSHONE is the county seat of Lincoln County and has a pop- 
 ulation of about 1,500. The town boasts of some of the largest mer- 
 cantile institutions in the State, and all lines of business are repre- 
 sented. A new national bank was opened on January 20, 1903, and 
 has been doing a splendid business. Hotels are first class and the 
 best of accommodations are offered tourists. Fishing and hunting 
 can be had in abundance, and sportsmen come here from all points, 
 even from New York City. The town is located on the banks of 
 Little Wood River and has ample water supplj'. 
 
 The farmers cut three crops of hay annually, and the climate is 
 unexcelled in any State in the Union. 
 
 The great Shoshone Falls are twenty-five miles directly south of 
 the village of Shoshone and are connected with the railroad by a stage 
 line, while in the village are numerous conveyances to transport 
 private parties to this; the rival of Niagara. At Shoshone Falls an 
 immense electric power plant is being constructed, from which power 
 is to be transmitted to Shoshone, Hailey, Salt Lake City, and Ogden, 
 and it will also furnish power for an electric railway from the Falls 
 to Shoshone. 
 
 The second largest irrigation proposition in the world is now being 
 constructed in this county and in Cassia County adjoining. This 
 great irrigating canal is diverted from Snake River, twenty-three 
 miles above Shoshone Falls. It is sixty-nine miles long, eighty feet 
 wide at the bottom, carries 3,400 cubic feet of water per second, and 
 places under irrigation 371,000 acres of the finest land in Idaho. 
 
 In water power this county rivals anyone section in the world, 
 its facilities consisting of the great Shoshone Falls, with a Fall of 210 
 feet; the Twin Falls, three miles above, with a fall of 184 feet; Auger 
 Falls, with a fall of 136 feet; Banker Falls, with a fall of 50 feet; 
 Salmon Falls, with a fall of 80 feet, and many lesser falls. This 
 power is now being harnessed and the near future will place Lincoln 
 County in the ranks of the great manufacturing counties of the West. 
 
 To reach the lands of the Twin Falls Land & Water Co. , leave the 
 railroad at Shoshone, where conveyances will be found ready to take 
 parties over this land. For particulars write to 
 
 TWIN FALLS LAND & WATER CO., 
 
 IMain Office, 221 Southwest Temple Street, SALT LAKE, UTAH. 
 
COLFAX, WASH. 
 
 All Gone 
 
 Now! 
 
 THE LONE TEPEE. 
 
 Are the original inhabitants 
 of the famous " Palouse 
 Country " of Eastern Wash- 
 ington. Most of this coun- 
 try is in Whitman County, 
 which lias probably exported 
 more wheat than any county 
 in the United States. (Not 
 less than 9,500,000 bushels 
 were shipped out, of the igoi 
 crop, and the 1902 crop was not much less.) 
 
 Prof. Mark Harrington, when President of the State University of 
 Washington, said of the Palouse soil: 
 
 " This fine soil is very fertile. It seems to be of a kind which is 
 perpetually fertile. In the whole world I know of only one locality 
 which has a similar soil This is the north of China, in the two prov- 
 inces of Shansi and Shensi, west of Peking. To me the Palouse soil 
 seems to be the same, from which I am led to believe that it is 
 inexhaustible. 
 
 " We estimated what population the Palouse Country was able to 
 maintain. Our conclusion was that one hundred times as many 
 people could be supported by its soil as now live there. 
 
 " Another characteristic of the soil in that country is the small fall 
 of water needed to raise the crops. This, of course, is another ad- 
 vantage. Then there are no trees or rocks to be removed. Put in 
 the plow and then plant the seed." 
 
 While celebrated for wheat, the Palouse Country has been found 
 to be well adapted for producing magnificent fruits of all kinds, 
 vegetables of large size and fine quality, and many of the tame 
 grasses. 
 
 Whitman County has (Nov., 1902) over 280 miles of paying rail- 
 roads and 80 miles under construction, 15 banks, over 160 school- 
 houses, a dozen towns of from 300 to 3,000 population, several rural 
 free delivery mail routes, and hundreds of miles of public and private 
 telephone lines. The State Agricultural College is located at Pull- 
 man and has nearly 700 students enrolled. 
 
 Colfax is the county seat and chief business point, and is one of 
 the best business towns of its size m America. People coming West 
 for new location will find here rich lands at moderate prices, and all 
 advantages. For further information call on or address, 
 
 CHAMBER OF COMIVIERCE, 
 
 COLFAX, WASHINGTON. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 Bird's-eye View of l^liddle Falls and Manufacturings District, Spokane. 
 
 SPOKANE 
 
 the Metropolis of 
 the Inland Empire 
 
 The Imperial City — seven times better than 
 any other city in the Pacific Northwest, 
 the land of sunshine, flowers, fruit, grain, 
 gold, silver, lead, copper, marble, timber, 
 and all that nature can offer in opportu- 
 nities for the acquirement of wealth. : : : 
 Where there are no killing frosts to injure 
 crops, no cyclones, no floods, no destruction 
 from lightning, and where sunstroke is un- 
 known except in name. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 * * SPOKANE * * 
 
 1 SPOKANE, the greatest agricultural center in the United 
 States — more than 30,000,000 bushels of wheat produced annually 
 within a radius of 200 miles of SPOKANE, in the celebrated 
 Palouse and Big Bend farming belts. 
 
 2 SPOKANE, the distributing center for all of the Palouse 
 country, Big Bend country, and the Colville and Kalispell valleys. 
 
 3 SPOKANE, the geographical and distributing center of the 
 famous Coeur d'Alene silver-lead mines of Northern Idaho. The 
 gold and copper mines of Rossland and the boundary country, 
 and the Slocan in British Columbia, and of Republic, Washington. 
 Also of the famous coal fields of the Crow's Nest country, and of 
 the Okanogan country with its rich agricultural and mineral 
 resources. 
 
 4 SPOKANE, the distributing center for the great, growing 
 lumbering districts of Eastern Washington and Northern Idaho, 
 which have the largest white pine forests in the world. The lum- 
 ber output for 1902 is estimated at $20,000,000. 
 
 5 SPOKANE, with a water-power surpassed only b}' Niagara, 
 will become the greatest manufacturing city of the Pacific North- 
 west. The maximum power of the Falls is between 200,000 and 
 300,000 horse-power, of which about 15,000 horse-power is utilized. 
 SPOKANE offers better returns for the establishment of manufac- 
 turing industries than can be found anywhere else in the West, 
 because of its growing population and cheap water-power. 
 
 6 SPOKANE, the railroad center of the Pacific Northwest. 
 Transcontinental trains arrive and depart at SPOKANE over four 
 lines — the Northern Pacific, Great Northern, Burlington, and 
 0. R. & N. Co. Branch lines radiate to every part of the INLAND 
 EMPIRE of which SPOKANE is the hub. Look at the map. 
 
 7 SPOKANE, last, but not least, for business opportunities 
 for business men. To be ready when your opportunity comes is 
 the secret of success. Then get ready. SPOKANE offers you 
 that opportunity. For detailed information, address the 
 
 SPOKANE CHAIiBER OF COWI^IERCE 
 
 I. G. MONROE, Secretary 
 
 F. E. COODALL, President 
 
 Threshing Scene, Washington, 1,960 Sacks at one setting, \H days' work. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 Arthur D. Jones & Co. 
 
 (incorpobated) 
 
 ESTABLISHED 188 7 
 
 Offices in Empire State Building 
 SPOKANE. WASHINGTON 
 
 We are agents for the Empire State, the 
 Spokane Club, and many other fme blocks, 
 also much other business and residence 
 property in Spokane. 
 
 We write any kind of insurance ; we loan 
 money at from 5 to 8 per cent per annum. 
 
 We sell improved business property that 
 will pay 8 to 10 per cent per annum, net. 
 
 We sell grazing and raw farm lands in 
 Eastern Washington at $2.00 to fio.oo 
 per acre. 
 
 We sell improved farms at $10.00 to 
 I60.00 per acre. 
 
 Call at the oldest real estate and land 
 office in Spokane for the best bargains. 
 
 As to our reliability we refer you to any 
 bank or leading business man in Spokane. 
 
 ARTHUR D. JONE.S 6 CO. 
 
 907 RIVERSIDE AVENUE 
 
SPOKANE. 
 
 ^he Metropolis of the 
 Inland E^mpire ^ ^ ^ 
 
 GpQJ^ jA ^ J^ being the center of a large 
 •^^ "^^ country rich in mines and 
 farming lands, there are many opportunities for 
 the investor and homeseeker, 000^00 
 ^ Here the investor can secure 7 per cent 
 interest on his money with absolutely good 
 security, and there are many opportunities for 
 the purchase of timber and farming lands. 
 
 Uo the Homeseeiter 
 
 Whatever his interest might have been, whether 
 in mines, in the forests, as orchardist, stock= 
 man, or farmer, there are opportunities pre= 
 sented such as are seldom found. With the trade 
 With CHINA and the ORIENT in its infancy and in= 
 creasing rapidly, the markets are safe and steady. 
 The railroads projected and built afford 
 access to market and are constantly opening 
 up ne^v country for the settler, a 
 Among those w^ho have been connected w^ith 
 real estate and investments for a number of 
 years is the firni of 
 
 E.LMENDORF 6 E.LMENDORF 
 
 Who w^ill gladly submit for either the investor 
 or the homeseeker a statement of the lands or 
 investments of any kind or nature. 0000 
 Those interested will do well to correspond 
 with them. Any bank in Spokane -will tell you 
 of their standing. 000 000000 
 
 ELIVIENDORF & ELMENDORF 
 
 Real Estate and Investments 
 Rookery Building SPOKANE, WASH. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 BRUNOT HALL 
 
 A Protestant Boarding and Day 
 
 SCHOOL FOR GIRLS 
 
 Special Advantages in Music, 
 Art, etc. :: Prepares for any 
 College. ;: Well Equipped Gym- 
 nasium for Physical Culture. 
 Healthful location and delight- 
 ful surroundings. :: Faculty is 
 composed of cultured Eastern 
 ladies from the best colleges. 
 Write for Illustrated Catalogue. 
 
 FOR, FURTHE-R. INFORMATION ADDRESS 
 
 JULIA P. BAILE.Y, Principal 
 2209 Pacific Ave. SPOKANE., WASH. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 The Home of the "Big Red Jlpple 
 THE 
 
 TOWN OF WENATCHEE 
 
 »ENATCHEE, the county seat of Chelan 
 County, is situated within one mile of the 
 exact center of the State of Washington, 
 close to the junction of the Wenatchee 
 River with the Cohtmbia. It has more than 2,500 
 people. Two years ago it had scarcely 500. It has 
 doubled m size during the past year. Last fall it 
 shipped 1,000,000 bushels of wheat, which was brought 
 to this point by the Columbia River steamboats, and 
 300,000 packages of fruit, aggregating over 300 car- 
 loads, which was raised in the Wenatchee Valley. There 
 are now six large river steamboats running up the 
 Columbia River from this point, and another one is 
 building. 
 
 During the year 1902 ten large brick business build- 
 ings and over 100 dwellings were erected. Most of the 
 latter are residences costing more than $1,500. The 
 Wenatchee Milling Compan)^, which has a loo-barrel-a- 
 day plant, is building an addition to increase its capacity 
 to 250 barrels a day. 
 
 Wenatchee has a $14,000 brick school building, which 
 is now crowded to overflowing, and is building another 
 of equal size. Chelan County has here a $15,000 brick 
 court house. The town has water works, electric 
 lights, and a telephone system. Wenatchee is the 
 principal shipping point on the Great Northern Rail- 
 way between Spokane and Puget Sound. From the 
 bank of the river the land rises in a smooth, easy 
 slope to the foothills two or three miles back. The site 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 The Wonderful Wenatchee Valley 
 
 is sightly, well drained, and attractive. Spokane is 
 174 miles east and Seattle 164 miles west. 
 
 Wenatchee's tributary country includes on the north 
 the gold and silver mining region of the Okanogan 
 Valley, now supporting nearly 5,000 people, and des- 
 tined to become one of the finest sections of the United 
 States. Then comes the fertile valley of the Okanogan 
 River, extending from far up in British Columbia to the 
 Columbia River. Below the Okanogan is the Methow 
 Valley, fully as fertile, and containing at the present 
 time the finest unentered government agricultural lands 
 to be obtained. Along the Methow are also fine gold 
 and coal mining properties which are being rapidly 
 developed. Next in order comes Lake Chelan, well 
 ranked among the finest scenic attractions of the West- — 
 a silver lake sixty-five miles long, from whose shores 
 on either side abrupt mountains rise far above the snow 
 line. At the head of this lake lie rich silver mines, 
 while at its foot is a fine fruit-growing section, the 
 whole making the most delightful summer resort. 
 Along the Entiat River just below are numbers of fine 
 fruit farms and room for many more. To the east of 
 the Okanogan and north of the Columbia River lies 
 the great Colville Indian Reservation, the north half of 
 which has recently been thrown open to settlement, 
 containing thousands of acres of fine farm lands and 
 rich mineral deposits. South and east of the Columbia 
 River, encircled by its "Big Bend," is the Big Bend 
 Plateau, the finest of cereal producing sections and 
 stock ranges. 
 
 The townsite and much of the fine fruit land imme- 
 diately adjoining is owned by the Wenatchee Develop- 
 ment Co., Arthur Gunn, Manager, Wenatchee, to whom 
 inquiries for further information may be addressed. 
 
WENATCHEE, IV ASH. 
 
 W enatchee, the Home of the "Big Red jipple 
 THE BEST IRRIGATED FRUIT LANDS ON EARTH 
 
 are in the 
 
 Wonderful 
 
 Wenatchee 
 
 Valley 
 
 in the exact center of the 
 
 EVERGREEN STATE. OF 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 Irrigation is King 
 
 A larger net annual revenue per acre can be taken from irri- 
 gated lands, in fruit culture, near Wenatchee, than from any 
 other agricultuial or horticultural lands in the United States. 
 This is demonstrated positively on dozens of fruit ranches at 
 Wenatchee, and an investigation will convince any person of the 
 correctness of our statement. 
 
 The High Line Canal, recently constructed by the Wenat= 
 chee Canal Company, will irrigate all of the tillable lands in 
 the valley, and the Comijany has for sale a limited area of the 
 choicest of these lands. 
 
 For full particulars call on or address 
 
 Wenatchee Canal Co. 
 
 Wenatchee^ Washington 
 
ALL ROADS LEAD TO I 
 
 Walter M, OtiVe 
 
 
 WHO SELLS 
 
 Wagons, Farm Implements 
 Ammunition, Guns, Sporting Goods 
 Lumber and Building Material of aii kinds 
 Tinware, Kitchen Furnishings 
 Every kind of Hardware 
 Real Estate, Town Lots and Acreage 
 
 *t5^ 
 
 Machinery 
 
 Oils, Paints, Varnishes, Glass 
 Lime. Plaster, and Cement 
 I nsurance 
 
 Vehicles of all kinds 
 Electrical Supplies 
 
 WALTER. M. OLIVE, !• 
 
 MISSION, WASH. 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 T. S. Land, Cattle & Frait Co. 
 
 ^HAT FARMING responds, with large and certain profits, 
 to careful, systematic, and intelligent management is 
 prominently exemplified in the case of an irrigated fruit 
 and stock ranch situated in the central part of the State 
 of Washington. 
 
 Near the town of Mission, in the Wenatchee Valley, 
 is the headquarters of the T. S, Land, Cattle & Fruit Company, or, 
 as it is more usually spoken of locally, the Tibbits-Scaman Company 
 — M. O. Tibbits, J. A. Seaman, and D. L. Tibbits being the officers 
 and largest stockholders. It is a stock company, organized under 
 the laws of the State, and is managed and operated on business 
 principles, with the same care and attention that characterize a well- 
 regulated banking, manufacturing, or mercantile establishment. 
 Here it is intense farming — to make every foot of ground produce 
 to the utmost with the least outlay — to count the cost, but not to spoil 
 the product either in quantity or quality by a foolish system of 
 economy. 
 
 The specialties of the T. S. Company are winter apples and fine 
 blooded cattle, both beef and dairy — and in these are the biggest 
 profits. Minor details are, however, not neglected. There is a hen- 
 nery — complete — in which every hen, by a proper system of feeding 
 and handling, is made to pay a profit o£ twice her value each year; a 
 dairy — with every modern facility — the cows each paying a net profit 
 of from $50 up per year, those that do not being sent to the beef 
 herd; a sawmill and box factory for manufacturing lumber for build- 
 ings and other purposes, and where the fruit boxes are made; a veg- 
 etable garden which supplies the boarding house with the best that 
 can be grown and also returns from $100 to $300 per acre yearly from 
 melons, cantaloupes, tomatoes, wax beans, sweet corn, etc., sent to 
 the markets of Seattle and other Puget Sound cities; a blacksmith 
 and carpenter shop for the repairing of all machinery, tools, etc. 
 
 The sheltered location, chemical construction of soil, long period 
 of sunshine, with no summer frosts or pests of any kind, together 
 with good markets, make a well cared for orchard in the Wenatchee 
 Valley a veritable gold mine. There are no failures of crop. From 
 $200 to $500 worth of fruit per acre annually is an average yield. 
 Figure what this means from the 500 acres of orchard that will soon 
 be under cultivation by the Tibbits-Scaman Company! 
 
 The beef cattle pay a net profit of 25 per cent. They are fed on 
 the range bordering the eastern foothills of the Cascades from nine 
 to ten months of the year, without cost or expense of any kind, 
 and are wintered on alfalfa hay grown upon the company's own 
 lands at a total cost of $1.10 per ton. An average of eight tons per 
 acre is grown during a summer. It is cut three times. 
 
 The land holdings of the company cover 2,000 acres — one-half of 
 it under irrigation. This is not large compared with wheat farms or 
 stock ranges, but for an irrigated farm where every acre is tilled to 
 its utmost and made to produce from |ioo to $500 annually, and 
 where bearing orchards pay a high rate of profit on a valuation of 
 $1,000 per acre, it means a big business — a large profit. 
 
J. FURTH, J. S. GOLDSMITH, R. V. ANKENY, 
 
 President VicB'Tresident Cashier 
 
 G. H. TARBELL, jissistant Cashier 
 I. KOHN, Jissistant Cashier 
 
 ^he Puget Sound 
 National Bank 
 of Seattle 
 
 Cable 
 
 Address 
 
 "Furth" 
 
 We use 
 
 Liebers 
 Code 
 
 Capital $300,000 
 
 Undivided Profits if) 1 Uf UUU 
 
 CORRESPONDENTS 
 
 in all principal cities of United 
 States, E,urope, China, Japan, 
 Hawaiian Islands, AlasKa, Brit= 
 ish Columbia, and NortK^vest 
 Territory a DRAFTS issued 
 direct to Skagway, Atlin, Ben= 
 nett, Dawson City, and Nome 
 
 COLLECTIONS MADE on ALL POINTS 
 
 on reasonable terms 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE INVITED 
 
WASHINGTON. 
 
 n/IORAN Bros. Company 
 
 SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 
 
 Ship and Engine Builders 
 
 STEEL AND WOOD VESSELS, STEAM OR SAIL 
 
 FOR OCEAN, SOUND, AND RIVER SERVICE 
 
 FOUNDRY, MACHINE, BOILER, and FORGE SHOPS 
 
 LARGEST TOOLS AND EQUAL TO ANY REQUIREMENT 
 HEAVY FORCINGS A SPECIALTY 
 
 DRY DOCK AND MARINE RAILWAY 
 
 Two-Section balanced floating dry-dock, 400 ft. long, 60 ft. between towers : 
 patent steel-wedge keel blocks; 12,000 tons displacement 
 
 CAPACITY OF MARINE RAILWAY 1,500 TONS 
 
 SHIP CHANDLERY, ENGINEERS' SUPPLIES 
 
 SAW AND PLANING MILL 
 
 capacity: timber, 48 INCHES SQUARE, 125 FEET LONG 
 
 INCLUDING EVERY DESCRIPTION OF ROUGH, 
 
 DRESSED, OR KILN DRIED 
 
 YELLOW FIR, RED CEDAR, or SPRUCE 
 
 We make a specialty of long and large timber and can dress four sides 20x30 inches 
 
 SPARS 
 
 r^l L1.LO OR TIMBER OF ANY DESCRIPTION 
 
 THE LONGEST, LARGEST. CLEAREST AND BEST IN THE 
 world; ROUGH OR HEWN 
 
 CARS FROM ALL TRANSCONTINENTAL ROADS 
 
 ENTER OUR YARDS AND DOCKS 
 
 DOCK SHIPMENTS TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD 
 
 ELECTRIC CRANE capacity to transfer 75 tons fror 
 car to vessel 
 
 FIRST-CLASS BATTLESHIP NEBRASKA 
 
 15,000 TONS DISPLACEMEP4T, NOW BEING CONSTRUCTED FOR 
 THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT 
 
 WE INVITE CORRESPONDENCE FROM ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD 
 
BALLARD, WASHINGTON 
 
 LARGEST 
 
 SHINGLE IMANUFACTURING CITY 
 
 IN THE WORLD. 
 
 BALLARD'S WATER FRONT. 
 
 BALLARD IS ONLY 20 /niNL'TES' RIDE rRSA\ 
 SEATTLE BY THE GREAT NORTHERN AND 
 NORTHERN PACIPIC RAILWAYS AND ELEC- 
 TRIC LINES. 
 
 THE INTERESTS AND ENVIRONMENTS OE 
 THE TWO CITIES ARE IDENTICAL. 
 
 BALLARD IS SITUATED ON SAL.nON BAY, A 
 DEEP-SEA HARBSR, WHERE VESSELS CAN 
 LOAD DIRECT PRO/n THE A\1LL WHARVES. 
 IT IS THE riNEST LOG HARBOR IN THE 
 WORLD. 
 
BALLARD, WASHINGTON. 
 
 BALLARD IS AN IDEAL LSCATISN psR AANU- 
 TACTURING PLANTS. 
 
 IS NOW THE CENTER OE THE LUABER 
 INDUSTRY or PUGET SOUND. PRESENT 
 PAY-ROLL, $150,000 PER A\ONTH. 
 
 BALLARD IS THE ENTRANCE TS THE UNITED 
 STATES GOVERNMENT LAKE WASHING- 
 TON SHIP CANAL. 
 
 THERE IS NO EINER CLl/nATE, LOCATION, 
 OR BETTER 1NDUCEA\ENTS THAN AT 
 BALLARD. 
 
 THE GROUND RISES GRADUALLY' EROAA 
 THE WATER ERONT TO THE FOUNTAINS, 
 AND ArrORDS THE BEST SITES TOR A 
 CITY ON THE SOUND. 
 
 THE NU/nBER SE Hs/HES HAVE D2UBLED IN 
 THREE YEARS, AND PROPERTY VALUES 
 HAVE INCREASED 25 PER CENT PER 
 ANNUn rOR THE PAST EOUR YEARS. 
 
 BALLARD PRESENTS WONDERPUL OPPOR- 
 TUNITIES POR /MODERATE CAPITAL TO 
 ESTABLISH INDUSTRIES. 
 
 FOR FREE INPOR/nATION ADDRESS, 
 
 BUSINESS MEN'S ASSOCIATION, BALLARD, WASH. 
 
 OPPICERS: 
 
 c). W. WMITHAM, PRES. E. B. cox. 1st V.-PRES. 
 
 R. \V. GROVER, 2D V.-PRES. E. n. DE /'VOSS, TREAS. 
 
 d. P. WALL. Sec'Y. 
 
t^^Kte^^Jf^LamiJI t f* m>mi^»^>itiitti y »l^*^><tyt<^ <tJtimmm>ml^t^* ^ 'f^ 
 
 ! 
 
 THOS. TYLER, 
 
 Timber Cruiser and Locator. 
 
 A. H. WRIGHT 
 
 Notary Public. 
 
 Tyler e Wright 
 Dealers in Timber 
 
 Mines, Mining and Other Stocks, 
 Clay "Beds, and Coal Lands 
 
 Those who deal with us make no mistake, as 
 
 we are posted on the properties we handle. 
 References furnished when required. 
 Inquiries and investigation invited. 
 
 :1 
 
 Office. 1305 E,lk Street, 
 WHATCOM. WASH, 
 
 |(gW*'»Vlr*-* * i^l 
 
Lumber 
 
 Important to the Buyer 
 
 To know that we are the largest manu- 
 facturers and rail shippers of the 
 famous White=as=J\Iilk Washington 
 Spruce on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 We make a specialty of : 
 
 Spruce Siding, Finishing, Porch 
 Decking, Box Shooks, Lath. 
 
 Fir Flooring, Tanks, Columns, Newels. 
 
 Cedar Shingles. 
 
 For shipment in mixed car lots. 
 
 Labor 
 
 Important to the Working Man 
 
 To know that we constantly employ, both win- 
 ter and summer, in and around our saw mills, 
 shingle mills, box factory, tank factory, planing 
 mills, etc., oVer 500 men and boys, and 
 
 can at all times furnish emplo5^ment to parties 
 in search of work. Capable employes promoted 
 as opportunity offers. 
 
 GRAYS HARBOR COMMERCIAL CO. 
 
 C. F. WHITE,, Manager, 
 
 COSMOPOLIS, WASH. 
 
T A COM A, WASH. 
 
 T A C O M A 
 
 Is county seat of Pierce County, largest seaport on 
 the Pacific Coast except San Francisco, terminal port 
 of more trans-Pacific steamships than any other city on 
 the Pacific Coast, nearest port to the best coal and only 
 good coke on the Coast, center of more water-power 
 than any other city on the Coast. 
 
 Population January 1, 1903, estimated 60,000. 
 
 Public schools, 22; teachers, 21 1 ; children of school age, 11,261. 
 
 Number of wage earners, 7,878. 
 
 Value of output of manufactures, |25,000,000. 
 
 Lumber cut, 1902, 304,000,000 feet. 
 
 Shingle cut, 1902, 347,565,000. 
 
 Lumber shipped by water, 1902, 108,000,000 feet. 
 
 Lumber shipped by rail, 1902, 4,932 cars. 
 
 Shingles shipped by rail, 1902, 1,100 cars. 
 
 Value of smelter output, |4,765,941. 
 
 Capacity of grain warehouses, 5,500,000 bushels. 
 
 Capacity of coal bunkers, 24,000 tons. 
 
 Building permits Issued, 1902, 896. 
 
 Postoface receipts, 1900, $69,826; 1901, |80,305; 1902,194,035. 
 
 Telephones in use January 1, 1900, 1,767; 1901, 2,655; 1902, 
 3,527; 1903, 5,136. 
 
 Total foreign exports, 1902, $19,091,491 ; other twelve ports on 
 Puget Sound, $15,594,532. 
 
 Total ocean commerce, foreign and domestic, 1902, $40,431,663. 
 
 Tea imported, 1902, 5,466,247 pounds; value, $851,850. 
 
 Matting imported, 1902, 13,234,206 yards; value, $1,080,000. 
 
 Exports to Alaska, $1,100,000 yearly. 
 
 Deep sea vessels cleared, 1902, 890. 
 
 Deep sea vessels entered, 1902, 888. 
 
 There was shipped from the city of Taooma during the year 
 1902, 11,829,093 bushels of wheat; 1,351,224 barrels of 
 flour, which, reduced to wheat, makes a total of 17,909,601 
 bushels of wheat. This was exceeded by only two ports 
 in the United States. 
 
 Average annual rainfall, 42 inches. 
 
 TACOMA has 
 
 The longest wheat warehouse in the world, the largest 
 lumber mill in the world, the largest sash and door factory 
 in the United States, the largest smelter on the Pacific 
 Coast, the largest cold storage plant on the Pacific Coast, 
 the most complete and extensive railway terminals in 
 the United States, the finest harbor in the world, the 
 largest coal bunkers on the Pacific Coast, a larger flour 
 trade with the Orient than any other port in the United 
 States. 
 
 •-^•^V*>y 
 
Timberand Farm Lands 
 
 " GOVERNMENT EXPERTS SAY THAT THERE ARE 
 
 66 Billion feet of Fir, 
 16 Billion feet of Cedar, 
 14 Billion feet of Hemlock, and 
 6 Billion feet of Spruce Timber 
 
 STANDING WEST OF THE CAS- 
 CADE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS IN 
 THE STATE OF WASHINGTON." 
 
 WE, HAVE SOME. 
 OF IT FOR SALE 
 
 We also have between 300 and 400 low- 
 pricedWashington farms to dispose of. 
 Send for printed list and onr pocket 
 map of Washington. 
 
 The Syndicate Compant;, 
 
 (Incorporated) 
 
 211=212-213 CaUfornia ■Building. 
 TACOMA, WASH. 
 
 Investments 
 
 NO CITY IN THE WEST OFFERS 
 BETTER OPPORTUNITIES THAN 
 
 Tacoma 
 
 FOR SAFE AND PROFITABLE 
 INVESTMENTS. 
 
 ^Business and Residence ^Properties pay from 6 
 to 12 per cent. Mortgages from 5 to 7 per cent. 
 
 We deal extensively in County and City Warrants and Bonds. 
 
 We have a department for Collecting Rents, Paying Taxes, and Taking 
 Charge of Properties for Resident and Non-resident Owners. 
 
 Our business was established in 1893 and we can furnish satisfactory 
 references East and West. 
 
 CALVIN 'PHILIPS AND COMPANY 
 
 {Incorporated} 
 
 211=212=213 California "Building, TACOMA, WASH. 
 
« » ~^ 
 
 
 STATE CAPITOL. 
 
 OLYMPIA 
 
 Capital of ^ajeftjington 
 
 i^ a 25fautiful €itp at tl)e ]^eali of l^abigation 
 
 on ^ugct ^^ounJj 
 
 POPULATION :: 7,000 
 
 Bank Deposits Frequently Exceed §3,000,000 
 
 LOW TAX RATE 
 
 CranjSjJortation lip Jlatl anti 9^ater to all 
 part^ of tl)e ^orlti 
 
 FREE SITES FOR FACTORIES 
 
 For Particulars, address: 
 
 OLYMPIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 
 
Olympia, Capital of Washington. 
 
 VIEW ON MAIN STREET, 
 BUSINESS PORTION OF OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON. 
 
 'HEN going West, don't fail to investigate the 
 beauties and advantages of Puget Sound and 
 of Olympia, the attractive and prosperous city 
 at its inland extremity. Fine scenery, healthful 
 
 climate, fruitful soil, mammoth lumbering operations, splendid 
 
 resources, all conspire to attract the homeseeker and investor. 
 
 Olympia was awarded World's Fair gold medals for fruits, and 
 
 prizes for farm products. 
 
 OLYMPIA OYSTERS 
 EVER HEAR OF THEM? 
 
 As an article of commerce, they bring in hundreds of thousands 
 of .dollars annually. As an article of diet, they make you 
 laugh and grow fat. 
 
 iW" IK^ead Olympia's Write-up, page 236, in this publication. 
 
WASI-IINGTON. 
 
 HENRY DRUM GEO. E. THOMPSON 
 
 THOIMPSON & DRUM 
 
 Investment Brokers 
 OLYI^IPIA (^?^r) WASHINGTON 
 
 TIIiBEK 
 
 If you want to buy timber or desire a logging or 
 manufacturing business, write us. We know 
 the business from successful experience. 
 
 OYSTERS 
 
 An extensive and very profitable industry in this 
 locality. The demand for the native " Olympia" 
 oyster will always exceed the supply. It is a 
 very small and delicious oyster, highly prized 
 by Eastern epicures. Only ordinary intelligence 
 required to make a success — no previous experi- 
 ence necessary. 
 
 Eastern oysters transplanted and successfully 
 grown here. Excellent opportunities for use of 
 small or large capital in opening new beds and 
 syndicating established plants. 
 Write us. We say above from experience. 
 
 OLYI^PIA 
 
 REAL 
 ESTATE 
 
 ( 
 
 State capital and county seat Thurston County. 
 
 Population, 6,000; deep-water commerce; two 
 
 railroads; fine agricultural and horticultural 
 
 lands. Chief industries, lumbering, coal, and 
 
 oystering. 
 
 We can sell you a city home, business property, 
 
 suburban acreage, or a good farm. 
 
 Reference 
 
 A twenty years' residence, practical business 
 experience, and extensive State acquaintance 
 permit us to say: Write to any State official, to 
 our County officers, to our local banks, or any 
 banker in the State, concerning our integrit)' 
 or ability to serve you satisfactorily. 
 
THE DALLES 
 
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 4^ go S o 3 3 
 
 
 ■,OVEr>HMENT I5LAN 
 
 / 
 
 ^POfiTLAND 
 
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 SAUVieS ISLANO 
 ^WAPfiTO) '^ 
 
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PORTLAND, ORE. 
 
 The 
 
 HILL 
 MIUTARY X . <^ J 
 
 ACADEMYpJiJ oucccss and 
 
 High Standing 
 
 I 
 
 of many hundreds of Dr. Hill's graduates and former pupils 
 during the last 24 years indicate the merits of his methods. 
 Prepares tor college in Classical, Scientific, and English 
 
 courses. Regular course is practical training for business | 
 
 life. Maniial training and mechanical drawing. Special | 
 
 courses in modern languages and music. New buildings, | 
 
 modern equipment, private sleeping rooms, no open dormi- \ 
 
 tory ; recreation rooms, large armory ; Athletics promoted • 
 
 and encouraged; chemical and physical laboratories; ex- \ 
 
 perienced faculty. A Boarding mid day School for Boys of all ages. I 
 
 Yoitnger Boys separate. \ 
 
 FOR CATALOGUE, ETC., DR. J. W. HILL, Principal 
 APPLY TO PORTLAND, OREGON 
 
 HOOD RiVER, ORE. 
 
 GE.O. T. PRATHER, Pres., L. H. PRATHER. Vtce-Tres. 
 
 U. S. Commissioner and C. E. HEMMAN, Sec.-Treas., 
 
 Notary Public. Notart/ Public. 
 
 THE, PRATHE,R 
 INVESTMIINT COMPANY 
 
 The Old Reliable Real Estate Agents 
 
 Abstracts, C«i nveyancing, Real £,state. 
 Insurance, and Money to Loan 
 
 LOTS AND BLOCKS FOR SALE 
 TAXES PAID FOR NON-RESIDENTS 
 CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED 
 TOWNSHIP PLATS AND BLANKS IN STOCK 
 
 Special attention giVen to the sale of fruit lands 
 in the Hood RiVer Valley 
 
 Telephone No. 51 Hood Rivcr, Oregon 
 
The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon. 
 
 THE Lmh If ^wa 
 
 is the first county of Eastern Oregon, and The Dalles is 
 its county seat;. is the gateway to the "Great Inland 
 Empire " ; is situated at the head of navigation of the 
 Middle Columbia River on the line of the O. R. & N., 
 eighty-eight miles east of the city of Portland,Oregon's 
 metropolis. 
 
 It has a population of 4,000. 
 
 It has five public school buildings and nine church 
 buildings. 
 
 It has a larger volume of banking business than any 
 other city of like population in the United States. 
 
 It has a United States land office. 
 
 It has an open river to tide-water and the lowest 
 freight rates of any point on the Columbia River. 
 
 Its merchants suppl}' an extensive trade and do a 
 large volume of business. 
 
 It is in the center of the best fruit belt in the North- 
 west. 
 
 It has large flouring mills driven by electric power 
 generated at a 160-foot falls of a mountain stream, 
 twenty-seven miles distant. 
 
 It is the county seat of a county seventy miles square, 
 whose resources are many, varied, and inexhaustible. 
 
 It grows a million bushels of wheat, has fine salmon 
 fisheries, ships 250 tons of canned salmon, a quarter of 
 a million dollars of green fruit of excellent fiavor and 
 
 27 
 
The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon. 
 
 shipping qualities, any variety of which makes a stan- 
 dard brand of canned goods. 
 
 Its winter apples sell higher than Riverside oranges. 
 
 It is the Western home of the Italian prune, and has 
 taken the county diploma and eleven out of thirteen 
 possible prizes at a Northwest competitive fruit exhibit. 
 From the luscious strawberry to the large prize apple 
 of the Centennial, it excels. 
 
 It is the greatest original wool shipping point in the 
 United States and has shipped eight million poimds in 
 one season. 
 
 Its climate is the Italy of Oregon, and it has seventy- 
 five more out-door working (Iajs in a 5'ear (Sunday 
 excepted) than any Pacific Coast count)'. 
 
 It has a varied altitude of from 100 feet above the 
 sea level to the limit of perpetual snow. 
 
 It has the grandest scenery and more of it per capita 
 than any place in America. 
 
 It wants the economic home-builder. 
 
 It wants the extensive investor in every department 
 of its resources. 
 
 It wants manufacturers and will supply them with 
 electricity for motive power and will furnish any 
 required amount of undeveloped and untransmitted 
 power from its mountain streams and waterfalls, and 
 wants a hundred thousand energetic, active, prosperous 
 people to help to supply the wants of the world, and 
 wants your careful consideration of its wants. 
 
 Address, 
 
 The Dalles 
 Commercial and Athletic Club, 
 
 N. WHEALDON, President, 
 MAX A. VOGT, Secretary. 
 
WASCO COUNTY, ORE. 
 
 Real Estate 
 
 Promoting 
 
 and 
 
 Call for ant> requisite of 
 
 Agricultural Lands 
 
 from a small home farm up to 
 section tracts of five to tWenty= 
 five square miles, or ant/ desired 
 amount of fruit lands, from small 
 tracts for small fruit to ant; de= 
 sired tract for a commercial 
 orchard of prunes or Winter 
 apples. Slualitif and superior re' 
 suits unequaled. 
 
 Or for a small combination 
 farm for grain and grazing, or a 
 32,000'acre cattle plant With ex- 
 tensive adjoining range, stociced 
 and equipped, or a Whole grant 
 of 450,000 acres. Or 
 
 Timber Land 
 
 t/elloW pine, fir, or mixed Vari' 
 eties from a single claim to 
 65,000 acres. Or irrigated lands, 
 cits property, or business loca= 
 tions. Or 
 
 Mining Claims 
 
 or groups of mines. Valuable clay 
 deposits, or mineral land. 
 
 Call or write and receive Prospectus and price. Address 
 
 N. WHEALDON, 
 
 THE DALLES, WASCO COUNTY, 
 OREGON 
 
HOMESEEKERS IN THE 
 PACIFIC NORTHWEST 
 
 Your attention is called to the lands of the Eastern Oregon Land 
 Company, open for purchase and settlement upon easy terms. 
 
 The property of this Company, comprising 450,000 acres, lies in 
 the counties of Wasco, Sherman, Gilliam, Wheeler, Grant, Baker, 
 and Malheur, in Eastern Oregon, and consists of the alternate odd- 
 numbered sections granted by the Government for the construction 
 of a wagon road beginning at The Dalles, on the Columbia River, 
 and terminating at a point on the Snake River four miles south of 
 Nyssa, passing through the towns of Moro, Grass Valley, Shaniko, 
 Mitchell, Dayville, Canyon City, Prairie City, and Vale. It is, there- 
 fore, diverse in climate and topography, and the lands comprise 
 farming, grazing, timber, and mineral sections and a large country 
 subject to irrigation. 
 
 The Oregon Railway & Navigation Co., the Oregon Short Line, 
 and the Columbia Southern touch the grant at various points, and 
 an extension of the Sumpter Valley Railroad is in process of con- 
 struction into the John Day Valley. The Columbia River and Snake 
 River also present easy and cheap forms of transportation for the 
 products of all this country, in addition to which various railroads 
 are projected into all parts of Eastern Oregon. 
 
 THE AGRICULTURAL LANDS in Sherman and Wasco 
 counties are the perfection of such properties in the State of Oregon, 
 producing from twenty to fifty bushels to the acre without fear of 
 failure, within easy reach of mills and cheap communication with 
 tide-water at Portland. These lands are fully occupied and carefully 
 farmed. 
 
 THE GRAZING LANDS, of which the Company possesses in 
 the neighborhood of 250,000 acres, are furnished with the famous 
 bunch grass and other natural grasses and fodders, numerous springs 
 and artificial wells at depths of from 50 to 150 feet. These grazing 
 lands lie beyond Shaniko east to the Snake River. The valleys 
 traversed in this country produce hay and alfalfa and afford warm 
 winter ranges, while the uplands are plentifully supplied with rich, 
 nutritious natural grasses. Sheep, hogs, and cattle are raised 
 throughout this section. Direct and cheap communication with the 
 Eastern and Western markets give all these products ready and 
 profitable sale. 
 
THE DALLES, OREGON 
 
 The development in the eastern end of the grant of irrigation 
 systems, under the Government's supervision and by private enter- 
 prise, is opening up many thousands Of acres of lands to crops 
 hitherto impossible of cultivation. These lands, once held at mode- 
 rate figures, have now advanced and, with the proof of the value 
 of irrigation, are expected to continue their advance in price and 
 productiveness. 
 
 THE MINERAL INTERESTS are scattered throughout the 
 whole of this country in gold, silver, quartz, and placer mines, copper- 
 lead, oil, and coal. The mines in the neighborhood of Canyon City 
 have been worked profitably for many j-ears, and those mines on the 
 Greenhorn and Dixie mountains near Prairie City are paying hand- 
 somely, while modern methods of working the ores have opened up 
 many old discoveries which had hitherto been regarded as unprofit- 
 able. 
 
 Oil prospects are being developed and tested in Malheur County 
 with flattering prospects of success at the present time. 
 
 THE PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF TIMBER throughout this 
 country gives the necessary material for domestic fuel, as well as 
 cheap material for fencing and farm improvements. 
 
 The timber, which lies principally on the ridges of the Blue 
 Mountains, consists of pine, cedar, and tamarack of first-class qual- 
 ity, and with the development of the railway systems now con- 
 templated will be within easy touch of the markets of the East and 
 West. Of this class of land the Company owns in the neighborhood 
 of 50,000 acres. 
 
 The attention of prospective settlers in Eastern Oregon is par- 
 ticularly called to the Eastern Oregon Land Company's grazing, 
 mineral, and timber lands and lands subject to irrigation. These 
 lands, as above described, are east of Shaniko in Wasco County, 
 and run thence through Antelope, Mitchell, Antone, Dayville, 
 Canyon City, Prairie City, Ironside, Dell, and Vale to Nyssa. It is 
 the purpose of the Company to dispose of these lands upon easy 
 terms — one-fourth of the price down, the balance in three payments, 
 bearing interest at 8 per cent. Information and description of par- 
 ticular sections will be furnished on application to the 
 
 Eastern Oregon Land Company 
 
 Columbian Building, San Francisco 
 
 or to The Dalles, Oregon 
 
Grande Ronde Valley 
 
 UNION COUNTY, OREGON 
 
 9 
 
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 ■^jKV^^-.Vi^i 
 
 For further information address 
 
 THE HOME- 
 SEEKERS' 
 DELIGHT 
 
 There are many fine 
 spots in the United 
 States but Grande 
 Ronde Valley sur- 
 passes all. Here a 
 failure of crop was 
 never known. Fruits 
 of all kinds grow in 
 abundance without 
 irrigation. Cattle 
 are raised with great 
 success and very 
 cheaply. Abundance 
 of summer range in 
 our mountains. 
 Also are offered ex- 
 cellent investments 
 from a loan stand- 
 point — six per cent 
 interest guaranteed. 
 Some choice mining 
 investments are 
 offered. 
 
 LA GRANDE INVESTMENT Co. 
 
 LA GRANDE-, OREGON 
 
GOLDENDALE,, 
 KLICKITAT COUNTY, WASH. 
 
 Klickitat County lies just east of Cascade 
 Range, with a frontage of 150 miles on the 
 Columbia River. The western half of the 
 county is accessible by river transportation to 
 Portland and the sea. 
 
 More than half of the lands in the county 
 are susceptible of cultivation. The remainder 
 is fine grazing and timber land, a large portion 
 of the latter being adapted to fruit-growing as 
 veil as to the various grains. The soil of the 
 prairie lands is a black, sandy loam, and is very 
 productive. 
 
 The principal crops grown are wheat, oats, 
 barley, rye, and timothy on the bottom lands. 
 Corn has also proved to be a paying crop. 
 Alfalfa, brome-grass, and many other grasses 
 are raised very successfully. Small fruits and 
 vegetables are grown, equal, if not superior, to 
 any other county in the United States. The 
 hardy fruits — apples, pears, plums, prunes, 
 and cherries — are particularly adapted to the 
 soil and climate along the Columbia River, 
 while peaches, grapes, and apricots grow to 
 great perfection. No irrigation is needed in 
 the county, although the yield is increased by 
 that means in some sections. 
 
 Camas Prairie and Trout Lake communities 
 are noted for their fine cattle and dairies. The 
 butter from these sections is acknowledged to 
 be the finest sent to Portland and the Sound 
 markets. Klickitat County is one of the largest 
 wool-producing counties in the State; a great 
 many hogs are also marketed every j-ear. 
 
 Cyclones, blizzards, tornadoes, hail, and 
 damaging wind-storms are entirely unknown 
 in the valley. The winters are short, compared 
 with those in the East, and while there is con- 
 siderable snow at times and the mercury goes below zero, such extreme 
 weather never lasts long. The summer and fall months are delight- 
 ful; there are only a few hot days, and the nights are always cool. 
 
 Most all of the religious denominations are represented, there 
 being over twenty church edifices in the county. There are sixty -five 
 school districts in the county. At Goldendale is located a public 
 academy for the advanced training of students from the public schools. 
 Goldendale, the county seat, is situated in the famous Klickitat 
 Valley, on the Little Klickitat River, and has a population of 1,500. 
 There are two flour mills, run by. water, with power suiiicient for 
 other mantifactories. There are several sawmills near the city and 
 tributary to it, and room for more. Goldendale boasts of the finest 
 mountain spring water of any city in the State, and has an abundance 
 of it, besides which there are hot water, soda, and sulphur springs. 
 
 AMPLE WATER POWER. 
 
GOLDENDALE, WASH. 
 
 Goldendale is the largest town in this part of the State, and is the 
 leading point for the entire county. From it may be had a view of 
 ML Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and some of the less promi- 
 nent peaks, all snow-capped throughout the year — monuments of 
 majestic beauty. 
 
 Extensive pine forests, coal lands, undeveloped mines of silver, 
 gold, copper, etc., are to be had in an unimproved state. The 
 county is replete in fine wheat and stock farms, such as the farmer of 
 Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, Missouri, or any other grain or stock- 
 raising country would look at with pleasure. Here the grain grows 
 with straw sufficiently strong to hold it up, and it never lodges ; with 
 fields free from noxious weeds, such as kale and cockle. Unimproved 
 land can be had for from $5 per acre up, and improved land from 
 $10 to $30 per acre, according to the improvement and location. 
 
 The Columbia River & Northern Railroad, now building through 
 the valley, will open and connect it with the nearby railroads and thus 
 supply the people with a long felt want, and develop the county to its 
 fullest extent. Other railroads projected which will give Klickitat 
 County better railroad facilities than any county in the State. 
 
 For health Klickitat County can not be beat. It has a fine climate, 
 a bracing atmosphere, and the best water that can be had anywhere. 
 For the sportsman the streams are teeming with speckled trout, while 
 grouse, pheasant, prairie chicken, sage hen, and china pheasant are 
 the feathered game, and bear, mountain lion, and deer are to be found 
 in the mountains. For further information regarding this wonderful 
 valley, address 
 
 SECRETARY OF THE BOARD OF TRADE, 
 
 GOLDENDALE, WASH. 
 
 THE MILL AND 
 
 THE STREAM, 
 
 THE DAIRY HOUSE 
 NEAR IT 
 
GOLDEKTDALE, WASH. 
 
 STOP! 
 
 ^ This Map 1 Shows m 
 THE 
 
 Famous Klickitat Valley 
 
 SOME OF ITS ADVANTAGES. 
 
 A PINE CLIMATE, 
 PRODTJOTIVE SOIL, 
 RICH QRAZINO LANDS, 
 ABTTNDANOE OF PTTKE 'WATEB, 
 ABUNDANCE OP CHEAP PTJEL 
 AND LUMBER, 
 
 LARGE CROPS 'WITHOUT PAILURE, 
 
 READY MARKET, 
 
 TOP PRICES, 
 
 CHEAP LANDS. 
 
 GOOD SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES. 
 
 "k Valley of Health and Wealth, of Sunny Days and Restful Nights. ' ' 
 
 WRITE FOR OUR 
 BOOKLET 
 
 J. J. Beid, Manager 
 
 K. C. LAND &. LOAN CO. 
 
 GOLDENDALE, WASH. 
 
 J. C. Maclnnes, Secretary. 
 
SUMPTER, 
 
 OREGON 
 
 Is one of the most progressive cities of the 
 Great Northwest. 
 
 It is a tliriving mining town in the Blue 
 Mountains, a growing cit}^ alive and 
 enterprising. 
 
 It is the terminus of the Sumpter Valley 
 Railwa3^ 
 
 Capital from all parts of the world is being 
 invested here to advantage. 
 
 Unusual opportunities are being offered to 
 investors in mining property. 
 
 SUMPTER 
 
 Is the center of the Eastern Oregon 
 GOLD FIELDS 
 
SUMPTE,R, OREGON 
 
 SUMPTE^R 
 
 Has a population of 4,000, and is still grow- 
 ing. 
 
 Electric lines are being built from Sumpter 
 into the higher altitudes. 
 
 A smelter is being constructed, and other 
 plans for taking care of the ores are 
 being made. 
 
 An extension of the railroad is under wa}", 
 which will add to the transportation 
 facilities. 
 
 The mines are being rapidly developed; 
 new strikes are being made, showing 
 the strength and continuity of the 
 veins. 
 
 The cit}^ has one hundred and fifty business 
 houses, and prices are advancing. 
 
 For full information regarding this 
 region address 
 
 The Chamber of Commerce, 
 
 SUIMPTER. OREGON 
 
SUMP TEH, ORE. 
 
 Mining, Smelter, Railway 
 
 STOCKS 
 
 We are the Original Promoters in the 
 EASTERN OREGON GOLD FIELDS 
 
 We have opened a number of the best properties 
 in the district, built a smelter, and sold a large num- 
 ber of mines. We are now offering treasury stock ir 
 
 Three Gilt Edge Properties 
 to develop and equip them 
 
 We always have a number of good properties listed 
 with us for sale. 
 
 EASTERN OREGON 
 
 is without doubt the best gold camp in the world. If you 
 do 'not believe this, write to us and ask for our reasons. 
 We will be glad to give you full information on the dis- 
 trict and our way of doing business. It will all please 
 you. Write us to-day. 
 
 Killen Warner SteWart Co, 
 
 SUMPTER, OREGON. 
 
 E.astern Offices 
 
 537 New York Life Building Herman Building 
 
 New York Milwaukee 
 
 Boston Philadelphia Baltimore Grand Rapids 
 
 Code — Bedford McNeill 
 
BAKER CITY, ORE. 
 
 I SELL THE EARTH 
 
 AND M\ PREPARED TO INTEREST THE 
 
 HOIME SEEKER and INVESTOR 
 
 ^ IN - 
 
 REAL ESTATE and INSURANCE 
 LOANS and SECURITIES 
 BUSINESS BLOCKS and HOUSES 
 MINES and MINING PROPERTY 
 
 ESTABLISHED TWENTY-SEVEN YEARS 
 
 J. F. FERGUSON 
 
 0/\KES BLDG., - 2023 WASHINGTON ST. 
 BAKER CITY, ORE. 
 
 Correspondence Solicited 
 
 CHICAGO, ILL, 
 
 THE, CELEBRATED RAND=McNALLY 
 
 Indexed Pocket Maps 
 
 of Every State and Territory 
 
 Last Official Census 
 Revised and Corrected to Date. 
 
 An indexed booK accompanies each map, showing at a glance 
 the location of towns, their population, post office and money- 
 order office, express companies, telegraph stations, railroads, 
 etc. They also indicate the post office address nearest to any 
 point not yet supplied with mail service. 
 
 Price, 25 Cents Each. 
 
 142 Fifth Ave., 1>_-,J Mf Mallv .^ Prt 160=174 AdamsSt., 
 
 NEW YORK. *>-ana, MciNaiiy c» «.^o. Chicago. 
 
coos BA V, OREGON. 
 
 Great Central Railroad 
 
 coos BAY, ORE.GON 
 to SALT LAKE, UTAH 
 
 Among the great enterprises of the, year must be mentioned the Great Central 
 Railroad now in course of construction. This is a railroad from Coos Bay, the most 
 capacious harbor and the most accessible on the jjorthern Pacific Coast, between 
 San Francisco and Puget Sound, up through the undeveloped timber lands, extending 
 across Coos and Douglas counties from the ocean to the Cascade Mountain Range, the 
 splendidly fertile prairies of Eastern Oregon and thence into the richest section of Utah, 
 with a terminal station at Salt Lake City. 
 
 While the fertile irrigable lands and the abundant water courses of the " Inland 
 Empire," from the Cascade Range to the Rocky Mountains have been the subject of 
 thorough description by reason of Congressional interest and corporate enterprises, 
 the magnificent forest primeval, immense coal area, rich mineral deposits, and extraor- 
 dinary dairy productiveness of that wonderful zone extending from the Pacific Ocean 
 to the Coast Range have remained a "terra incognita" to all the world save those fortu- 
 nate men who have fallen upon its wealth. 
 
 The region consists of a number of well-watered, fertile valleys and rolling uplands. 
 The meteorological conditions make the climate analogous to that of western Europe; 
 for the warm Japanese current, rarifying the atmosphere in winter, draws into the par- 
 tial vacuum so formed the \varm winds of equinoxial regions, with the rapid vaporiza- 
 tions of the condition. The result is a warm, humid atmosphere, establishing an 
 extraordinary wealth of vegetation between the Coast Range and the ocean, like that of 
 the " Hot Lands" of Mexico and Central America. Last winter there were but thirty- 
 four frost days in Coos County, while snow fell on only two days, and the lowest 
 temperature of the season was twenty degrees above zero. 
 
 On entering this forest from the east the stranger is surprised to find oaks draped in 
 moss, like the trees of Florida and other States of the Grulf Coast. As he advances, he 
 sees the ferns becoming trees like those of Central America. In this forest, too, is a 
 great abundance of cabinet woods, curly and bird's-eye and plain maple, white cedar, 
 laurel, willow, and several merchantable hard woods. This wealth is both immense 
 and unique. Coos and Douglas counties contain the largest belt of white cedar in the 
 world, a wood already famous under the' name of " Port Orford Cedar," as being the 
 best known wood for the upper works of ship-building. 
 
 The giant firs of the region have a wide reputation ; spruce, hemlock, and myrtle 
 abound, the last being valuable for finishing purposes on account of the exquisite polish 
 its fine grain admits. Here, also, are ash, alder, and oak. 
 
 There are 13,000,000,000 feet of merchantable timber standing in the forests of Coos 
 County and 24,000,000,000 in Douglas, according to the latest official count. 
 
 The coal area of Coos County underlies 300,000 acres of surface covered with the 
 timber wealth above described. Gold mining is now enlisting enterprise in both Coos 
 and Douglas counties. 
 
 Copper ores of high grade are found in Douglas and also rich cinnabar in paying 
 quantities, also extensive beds of marble rival in coloring the famous marbles of 
 Vermont and Tennessee. 
 
 Dairymen, since the establishment of extensive creameries, are netting $1,120 to 
 $1,800 a year, and their cows live out-of-doors, without housing, all the year round. 
 
 Crossing the Cascade Range the line of the Great Central Railroad enters an open 
 prairie region of great fertility under irrigation, the character of which remains the 
 same to its terminus at Salt Lake City. 
 
 The investor and homeseeker may obtain further information by addressing 
 
 A. A. WRIGHT, Manager, 
 
 Ainsworth Block, PORTLAND, ORE,. 
 
PORTLAND, ORE. 
 
 W^ m \(k@^ \(km \(km \(km {(km. {(km. \(km<. {(km {(km\ {Qq < 
 
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 HOMESEEKER 
 
 to 
 
 e> 
 
 ^-XS^fT^^©^^ 
 
 Your Most Direct Route to 
 Oregon, Washington, Idalio 
 
 - The Union Pacific Railroad 
 
 Oregon Short Line Railroad 
 
 <<§ Oregon Railroad & Navigation Co. 
 
 OUR NEW BOOK 
 
 TELLS YOU ALL ABOUT THE THREE 
 STATES; ALSO CONTAINS LARGE 
 MAP. FOUR CENTS, TO PARTIALLY 
 COVER POSTAGE, WILL BRING IT 
 TO YOU. 
 
 A. L. CRAIG, G. P. A. 
 
 OREGON RAILROAD & NAVIGATION CO. 
 PORTLAND, OREGON 
 
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 NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY STATION, LIVINGSTON, MONTANA. 
 
 ^he Gateway 
 
 to 
 
 Yellowstone Vark, 
 
 GARDINER 
 
 \ 
 
 Reached Via the Main line of the /NORTHERN PACIFIC to 
 Livingston and by a branch line Livingston to Gardiner. 
 
 M M M 
 
 THE $10,000 STONE ENTRANCE ARCHWAY, WHOSE 
 CORNER STONE PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT LAID, IS AT 
 GARDINER, ONLY FOUR MILES FROM MAMMOTH 
 HOT SPRINGS, THE CAPITAL OF THE PARK. 
 
 Send Six Cents 
 
 for copy of 
 " Wonderland." 
 
 CHAS. S. FE,E„ 
 
 General "Passenger yigent, 
 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
 ■ 
 
 i 
 
THE NORTH COAST LIMITED 
 
 Runs as a Solid Train between St. Paul and Minneapolis 
 and Seattle, Tacoma and Portland, via Butte, a distance of 
 more than 2,000 miles — a remarkable feat in railroading. 
 The Crack Train of the Northwest, having 
 
 PULLMANS, DINING, TOURIST, AND 
 OBSERVATION CARS. 
 
 THE "PUGET SOUND LIMITED" 
 
 Runs between Portland and Tacoma and Seattle, via Olympia. 
 
 Dining and Buffet-Parlor-Observation Car. 
 
 This train is the Pride of the Coast. 
 
 THE "lake superior LIMITED" 
 
 Runs between Minneapolis and St. Paul and the Superiors 
 and Duluth. Parlor and Observation-Cafe Cars. 
 A Train de Luxe. 
 
 CHAS. S. FEE, General Passenger Agent, 
 ST. PAUL, MINN. 
 
 28 
 
MIL WA UKEE. 
 
 I The Beverage of 
 / Health 
 
 [ There is no beverage more' healthful than the 
 right kind of beer. Barley malt and hops — a food 
 and a tonic. Only 3 ^^ per cent of alcohol — just 
 enough to aid digestion. 
 
 Rhine wme is 1 2 per cent alcohol; champagne, 
 20 per cent; whiskey, 40 per cent. 
 
 There are no germs in pure beer, while the sweet 
 drinks which you give children are full of them. 
 Pure beer is a tonic which all physicians favor. 
 They prescribe it to the weak, the run-down, the 
 I convalescent. And they recommend it to well i 
 I people who want to keep well. J 
 
 ^ But get the right beer, for some beer is not healthful. I 
 
 B Schlitz is the pure beer, the clean beer, the filtered and fl 
 
 ■ sterilized beer. No bacilli in it — nothing but health. H 
 
 B And Schlitz is the aged beer that never causes H 
 
 U ^^ biliousness. .^to. 'B 
 
 Y^^^W Call for the brewery bottling ^^^^ 
 
 THE BEER THAT MADE MILWAUKEE FAMOUS 
 
liiliiiii 
 
 .